Bad soldering iron - maybe even worse - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fixit7
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2019, 03:30:33 pm
content: I bought this thing.It has setting to adjust but it does NOT maintain anything like a set temperature.I left it on one night at the 300 setting.When I woke up the next day and saw that it was on, I noticed that the tip was slightly glowing.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Soldering-Iron-Gun-Adjustable-Temperature-60W-Welding-Set-Tool-Kit-110V/372172941590?epid=18028313401&hash=item56a73c6916:g:XS0AAOSw2NhcnXZYI now use it to melt holes in plastic, pvc, melt a hole thru fabric, etc.Andy

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2019, 03:41:42 pm
content: At worse, the temperature control is fake and does nothing, at best, it's a phase controller, basically a lamp dimmer circuit, which just varies the amount of power delivered to the element, without monitoring the temperature.I have a soldering iron with a phase controller. It's usable for small things only. When I first turn it on, I keep increasing the temperature until it's just hot enough to melt the solder, then I turn it up a little more.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2019, 03:55:55 pm
content: When my Weller WP30 was my main iron I plugged it into a timer like this:https://www.amazon.com/Teklectric-Curling-Straightener-Countdown-Conserve/dp/B01KKOJ42U/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=timed+outlet+plug&qid=1560786537&s=gateway&sr=8-5

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2019, 06:04:26 pm
content: You're being very over-optimistic if you expect to get decent temperature control for $10. Electrically safe would be quite an achievement (especially with a 2 pin mains plug).P.S. A glowing tip sounds like a shorted Triac in the 'lamp dimmer' circuit.

author: Nerull
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2019, 06:15:43 pm
content: Rather than buying a several super cheap irons, just buy one of the still-pretty-cheap knockoff hakkos, the newer stuff that uses T12s seem pretty nice for the money if you can't afford a name brand. The level of frustration you avoid when trying to use one of those shitty firestarter irons is worth the price difference.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2019, 06:35:43 pm
content: A number others on this forum have recommended the Bakon 950d soldering station.It is a T12/T15 tip based soldering station. Full temperature control.You can get it for around $25I think it come this cheap because they do not supply a decent stand for it.

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2019, 08:21:33 am
content: Those are alright as a starter but they don't last long and burn out if left on for long periods of time.Temp controls do work, sort of, but not very accurate.That particular one is the same as the ones in the cheap solder kits.There are other models ,like the GAOJIE 905D, that work better but again don't last long with continuous use. The elements burn out.You get what you pay for and that's the bottom line .I built a DIY with a 24v Hakko controller with t-12 tips but its pretty much as i expected.It does no better than an average 60W although the temp is fairly consistent.I've been very impressed with the QUICK 861DW soldering station and currently looking into the QUICK TS 1100 90W and TS1200 120W

author: johnkenyon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2019, 08:55:13 am
content: I would only use an iron that cheap to repair my existing closed loop temperature controlled soldering iron...Then it gets retired to the toolbox until such time I decide to take up wood burning i.e.:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrography

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2019, 10:32:45 am
content: The timer suggestion above is a great idea, but over the years I never had any luck with those mechanical pos dial up timers, at any price paidThey either don't work, stop working, fall apart, the switch seizes halfway during the STOP cycle and fries itself, cut fingers stuffing about with the preset click in crappers,dramas with which way is ON/OFF, the sound resembles a bomm about to go off at 'any minute'etc etcand for the advanced snafu enthusiast > the pos refuses to be re-assembled, once the issue is confirmed unfixable aka not worth re-engineering itthe digital versions are just as bad, they offer the frustrated user different problemsbasically timers for me are a reliable bad news affairIt should be easy but it never is, and every few years I get pulled back in for another rebadged money wasting serve

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2019, 11:37:33 am
content: I, OTOH, have always used JBCs with no temperature control and they have always worked fine for me. I guess I grew up with them and never felt the need for something better. I have mostly used 20, 30 and 40 W and they always worked well for my needs. I do not leave them plugged in for hours without use. I am the "temperature control". If I have not used it for a while I might blow on it. If I need it hot I will wait a bit. I just got the feel of it by using it.I suppose I could use a triac power control and I have several lying around I could use but I never felt the need that bad.Several decades ago I had a system where the iron was fed through a diode which was shorted by a switch when the iron was picked up from the holder. That way it was always at half power when in the resting holder.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2019, 11:56:13 am
content: I suspect these do have real temperature control, but the triac has failed. It could be a clone of this Hakko:http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx600.htmlTake it apart and have a look inside... and we'd all like a look too.

author: Arjunan M R
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2019, 04:37:19 pm
content: I am happy that I am not the only one using a soldering iron without temperature control and directly mains powered.

author: strawberry
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2019, 07:27:11 pm
content: Best way how to lift PCB tracks

author: fixit7
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2019, 03:33:23 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on June 17, 2019, 06:04:26 pmIf you have a criticism, maybe offer how to fix it?Andy

author: fixit7
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2019, 03:38:16 pm
content: Quote from: MosherIV on June 17, 2019, 06:35:43 pm5.0 out of 5 stars 4 customer reviewsCurrently unavailable.We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.Temp. adjustable from 180-450 °C(ie.356-842°F)5 Preset Temp. 250/300/350/400/450°CDigital display,easy to calibratecome with 3 tips (heater intergrated) for various soldering applicationsUses T12 intergrated tip,no need to change heater,heats up in seconds› See more product details

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2019, 08:44:46 pm
content: Quote from: fixit7 on June 19, 2019, 03:33:23 pmNot criticising you, just pointing out the limitations of very cheap temperature controlled irons (I should also have mentioned that a 2 pin mains powered soldering iron is likely to have a leakage current high enough to damage some sensitive components).I did indicate the probable failure (shorted Triac), unfortunately you will need another cheap soldering iron to change it.

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2019, 08:18:26 am
content: I have one like that and it does the same thing .Glows red hot.But if your really interested in repairing it, the TRIAC is a BT134-600.The element is 2 wire ceramic like the kind in a YIHUA 908+. Theirs a 110 and 220 types .the whole thing is a very simple design.

author: fixit7
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2019, 12:50:05 am
content: Here is the winning iron. :-)