High Voltage DC Benchtop Power Supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: motyr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 11:38:29 am
content: Hi All,I am looking for recommendation for the high voltage benchtop power supply.It must have at least 600V DC but 1000V would be better, adjustable but not necessary from 0V and the maximum output current of 0.5A (1A will be better). Dual output (like 2x300 ... 2x500V) also acceptable, as long as I can connect them in series to get 2x600V ... 2x1000V.Thanks

author: kultakala
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 02:02:53 pm
content: Hi,I dont know much about benchtop power supplies, but i guess you need a lot of money to get your mentioned specs.Just looked because i was curious and found for example the BK Precision PVS10005 which delivers up to 1000V and 5 A, so it has 5KW.Looks very nice but pricewise its in the medium 4 digit range

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 04:06:42 pm
content: If money is important, build your own. If you only want one unit, you can modify an old power supply. I have one that could do the job or at least come close.If you want a bench top supply to provide a kilowatt you had better have a strong bench.

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 04:55:14 pm
content: Your application? Load? Regulation, PARD, current limit, protection requirements?Are You qualified to operate dangerous equipment that is LETHAL if a mistake occurs?Check epay for used DEL or Spellman, also Lambda or Bertran HV supplies, expect very heavy rackmout linear.Cheaper: series/paralled or modify several tube (valve) Heathkit 1970s IM-17 rated 0-400V and 150 mA each.See QST, ARRL and others for ham radio TX plate supplies.Jon

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 05:45:08 pm
content: Quote from: jonpaul on June 22, 2022, 04:55:14 pmIt doesn't need to be heavy or large if it's modern, a 1kW switching power supply isn't. HSPY has a relatively tiny 1000V/1A one, available on aliexpress and mentioned here :https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hspy-power-supply/PS. shit quality but going be hard to find anything in that price range, especially anything which won't give you a hernia.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 05:47:28 pm
content: Still an 480$ usd investment for an Hspy-1000-01 programmable power supply, 1000V 1A

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 06:13:42 pm
content: Something from a B brand like ITECH IT6517D will set you back 4 times that, second hand ancient boat anchor will probably cost that in shipping. New from A'ish brand like BK PVS10005 5k and upward ... Agilent probably double again.

author: HalFoster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 06:58:10 pm
content: Power Designs 2K10, 2K20 ** especially recommend theseFluke 412A, 415BHP has several models in their 65xx seriesAll the above are pretty easy to find and repair if necessary since full service manuals are available. Cost should be from $150 to 400 USD depending on the condition and warranty.I have all these but have a Fluke 343A on the bench for frequent use.Hal

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 08:01:25 pm
content: Bit shy of an amp.

author: Wrenches of Death
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 08:44:27 pm
content: Quote from: motyr on June 22, 2022, 11:38:29 amI owned a pair of voltage and current regulated Kepco BHK series linear HV supplies for close to thirty years. I've got lots and lots of time on them performing "speriments"....Be VERY careful farting around with supplies that can produce the voltage and current levels you're looking for. They are lethal as hell. Your first opps! can very well be your last.I use only locking banana plugs and jacks or crimped and soldered eye terminals screwed down. No alligator clamps. All of my jumpers and leads are double insulated silicone and rated 5KV minimum when used with my the 2KV setup. If something pulls loose, it'll get you.Starting with the power supplies unplugged, I connect what I need to connect, then plug in the supplies with the DC switches off and let the output tubes warm up for a few minutes. Then I'll hit the DC switch....If something need to be "adjusted", I kill the AC power, unplug the supplies, shut off the switches on the PS and start over. Touch NOTHING when it is powered up.For real excitement, I have a few fifty pound neon sign transformers that are a real terror. They'll burn right through the 5KV silicone leads. :-)BE SAFE and double check everything. Seriously!WoD

author: pdenisowski
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 05:23:11 am
content: I'd just like to second what several others have said about safety: our NGP800 power supply can generate up to 800W and it's very easy to create lethal voltages / currents. The attached picture (where I'm using an automotive battery tester as a 40A, ~20V load) is definitelyNOTsomething you should try at home.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 06:17:30 am
content: Beware of those banana plug to alligator wires, in case they were a cheap buy.Saying that because those cables look like the ones I have, ordered from Aliexpress long ago, and mine are not using copper wires! Therefore, anything about 1A starts to heat them. At 3A, mine are almost hot enough to melt the isolation. At 10A I guess those wires of mine would be a fire hazard, but I never tested them above 3A.

author: pdenisowski
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 09:34:52 am
content: Quote from: RoGeorge on June 23, 2022, 06:17:30 amI think I got those from Amazon, but they were definitely very, very cheap. The automotive battery tester is only supposed to be used for a few seconds at a time (it has a spring-loaded switch so you have to hold it down to keep the circuit closed), but even that was enough to start heating them up. After a few tests, they were uncomfortably hot, and after a few more tests, I noticed that a couple of channels suddenly reverted to constant voltage mode because the leads became ... permanently... open. So in a sense it was actually safer for me to use cheap leads, since they stopped conducting before they caught fireI left all of the leads in a metal bucket of water, outside, for a while before throwing them away.

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 25, 2022, 12:28:26 am
content: Quote from: pdenisowski on June 23, 2022, 09:34:52 amTest leads that double as fuses - genius! /sThat is a hell of a sweet looking power supply, but I suspect waaaay out of my price range. R&S makes some nice gear.-Pat

author: pdenisowski
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2022, 02:00:41 am
content: Quote from: Cubdriver on June 25, 2022, 12:28:26 amThe NGP is a very popular supply, but it isn’t really priced for hobbyists.I recently developed a series of power supply technology and “how to” videos for each of the R&S power supplies, and now it’s kind of hard for me to go back to using my personally-owned supplies

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 25, 2022, 02:13:11 am
content: Quote from: pdenisowski on June 25, 2022, 02:00:41 amHaha - I’ll bet! Like I suppose that first hit of crack must be, using pro-grade anything (electronics, cameras, tools…) quickly spoils you, and can foster costly addictions. Unlike crack, though, at least the stuff we like only hurts our wallets.-Pat

author: _Wim_
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2022, 04:32:40 am
content: Quote from: Cubdriver on June 25, 2022, 02:13:11 amWith a 1000V 1A supply like the OP is requesting, that is open for discussion...

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 25, 2022, 04:40:04 am
content: Quote from: _Wim_ on June 25, 2022, 04:32:40 amDefinitely a valid point.And upon further reflection, some of my old HP stuff could also wreak havoc on my back and (in aggregate) the structural integrity of my house.-Pat

author: pdenisowski
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2022, 10:54:20 am
content: Quote from: Cubdriver on June 25, 2022, 04:40:04 amWhen I worked for HP, some of the products I supported had a “two person lift” sticker on them, but only one handle ….At that time, HP also made medical equipment, so if you had a heart attack lifting something, there was a good chance they’d hook you up to another HP product at the hospital.

author: voltsandjolts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 25, 2022, 11:46:16 am
content: https://elektroautomatik.com/

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2022, 12:09:53 pm
content: https://www.fug-elektronik.de/

author: Martin72
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2022, 08:52:39 pm
content: Quote from: motyr on June 22, 2022, 11:38:29 amI was looking for a DC-supply for our testfield, to generate voltages up to 1500Vdc.Until then we had to connect two or three supplies in series - Not really safe thing for human and machines...Elektro-Automatic got superb hv-supplies, but with more current we need, therefore more power - And more money to spend for.Finally I´ve found a suitable supply in the USA, from Magna Power:https://magna-power.com/products/magnadc/slI´ve ordered 0-1500Vdc, 1 A - Perfect for our needs (testing/adjusting DC-Link supervision circuits).And the price....Appx. 2500$ only.Will arrive next week.Martin

author: ci11
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2022, 12:59:33 pm
content: Two well-known specialist brands in the field of HV power supplies - those that start at 1kV - are Spellman HV and Glassman HV in the USA. If tubes are preferred, Universal Voltronics would be another brand. if 600V is enough, Sorensen, AMREL, Ametek, TDK are also good bets.All these brands make reliable units used in industrial, military and medical applications and are therefore rackmounted and very robustly built. Due to the dangers of high voltage, many have multiple interlocks built in as well as special connectors to deter unintentional use or accidents from untrained users. Many were customized and interlocks are difficult to defeat. For my tube tester build pictured below, I used Glassman and Amrel to supply up to 3kV to the plate and grids and a Rohde & Schwarz linear supply for the filament.Spellman HV is still independent but Glassman HV was acquired by XP Power. Universal Voltronics was also acquired but I do not think they make HV power supplies anymore. There are good deals to be found from time to time on eBay especially if you know how to make them work properly.

author: aronake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2022, 02:32:16 pm
content: I bought a HSPY 1000V 0.5A. Works very well for what I used it for. Some work on electronic tubes and recently had use for it to repair a 300 V DC to 18 + 9 + 5 V DC switched mode power supply module. Can recommend that.I am extremely careful when using it. Not because of build quality, but that it easily can kill people!

author: Ground_Loop
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2022, 01:15:39 am
content: How about one of these. 0-2500vdc, 0-250mA, voltage current and power limits. Several available on EBay now for under $100us.

author: motyr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2023, 10:14:49 am
content: Hi All,I don't know why but the post was showing me no replies (I have bookmarked it) so I have completely forgotten about it.OK, as an update if anyone will need similar PSU , I have decided to purchase BK Precision BK9185B. It is 600V/350mA so works good for my application.Thanks for all of your replies (even as I have missed them).

author: David Aurora
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2023, 12:46:08 pm
content: Put me down as a minus one for the HSPY things. It kind of sucks. Super noisy (not sure what your application is, but for me the noise was an issue), build quality not great, it's a bitch to work on internally, and just... meh.Also, and this is a big thing IMO, you can't trust the output toggle button to actually latch. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't, meaning sometimes you disconnect something with hundreds of volts on it even though you hit the damn button to turn the output off already. I'm aware of it now, but it caught me a couple times early on.