Power Supply Repair (Xbox Series X) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: JustinLoos
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 11:03:52 pm
content: I have a non functioning power supply on an Xbox series X. Upon inspection one of the Toroid Magnetic/ common mode Inductor (I believe thats the part name) broke off the PCB. How do I go about getting a replacement? Legs are too short to solder back on. The part number is: 37-pa13210607 but LiteOn doesn’t sell to the public. Nor does the part’s sticker label signify the part’s specifications, like a capacitor does.What I know:Approximate size:Length 22 mmHeight 20 mmWidth 10 mmTermination: Through holeMounting: vertical0.3 omhs L = 7.33mH

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2023, 07:24:09 am
content: Simply put this thing is just a piece of isolated wire. Make it longer with another piece of wire of similar diameter. Solder it on and put some heat shrink tube around it to isolate it. Do not make more coils, or less, than it had originally as this would change the value of the component.

author: JustinLoos
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2023, 07:31:45 am
content: Unfortunately, 2 legs broke off in the middle were the black epoxy is so I can’t add extensions to one side. I broke them off by accident trying to “unwind” it one rotation to have length to solder.

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2023, 10:21:51 pm
content: Just go for it. Continue the removal of the black glue till the wire is long enough to work with.If you remove or break more wire make sure to note down how many windings you have removed. Take some pictures during the unwinding as a reference for later.Worst case you have just to remove all the enamel wire and to replace it with new wire. Will take some time but very doable. When completely rewinding using same diameter of wire is important.

author: JustinLoos
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2023, 10:57:26 pm
content: Ok I’ll proceed with the unwinding. Any recommendation on how to remove the epoxy? It’s hard as a rock.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2023, 11:33:52 pm
content: Is this an EMI filter at the AC input? If so, then I wouldn't think that one less winding would make much difference.

author: JustinLoos
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2023, 12:13:13 am
content: I have no choice but to attempt a single turn unwind as I broke two legs off. I’m not sure if it’s an emu filter at the ac input. Here’s more pictures if they help to answer that question.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2023, 12:49:23 am
content: This is just one example:https://www.elektormagazine.com/assets/upload/images/42/20230523160750_EMI-filter-fig-3.png

author: Mario87
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2023, 10:45:15 am
content: Just a standard Common Mode Choke for EMC purposes to filter noise on the AC input, nothing special. Unwind each side by 1 turn (to keep each side equal) and re-install. If the epoxy is hard as a rock it will be difficult, but just needs to break it up mechanically or chemically, however most of these epoxies will be chemical resistant to all but the strongest of solvents which would also damage other parts.I would look to remove epoxy by mechanical means or try to find a similarly rated component online from RS, Farnell, Digikey, etc. Exact component value won't make much difference. To be honest if your REALLY wanted to, you could replace it with some wire and the PSU will still work, albeit any noise on the mains will likely filter through the rest of the circuit, potentially to the console and could cause random issues (like crashing) if it does (won't break anything, but you never know how EMI will affect sensitive electronics).

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2023, 11:20:21 am
content: Yes, a bit of violence will be necessary if you really want to remove that black stuff.For testing the rest of the power supply you can replace these with a jumper, but as Mario87 implies, this should not be considered a real permanent solution.Adding an external filter is an option too.That heatsink is a little bit in the way it seems. More dismantlement is likely the way.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2023, 02:01:18 pm
content: Jumper or simply go hunt up pretty much any old PC power supply, or any semi decent small SMPS like a laptop supply you no longer use, or anything destined for ewaste. Open it up ( for the sealed units going to be a little bit of hammer time or application of vice force) and you will find a similar one in there to transplant. I did not bother with the last one, simply went, found an old ADSL filter ( plenty around) and took the 2 inline chokes out, and used in place of it. not so greeat on CMRR, but will not be an issue, as most cheap PSU units do not even include them any more, just 2 wire links, or even with the space there, silkscreened, but underneath 2 traces joining the holes, or even just nothing there at all.

author: JustinLoos
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2023, 04:25:22 pm
content: If I’m going for replacement. What specs am I looking for? I don’t know the amps of the filter. I did get a reading of 0.3 omhs L (inductance) = 7.33mH (microhenry). I attached pictures of the power supply label if that helps?