3D Printers which/what/why - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cowasaki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 10:26:18 am
content: I've been toying with buying or building a 3D printer for a couple of years and now I'm looking at doing so in the next month.I would like to build:cases for electronic items that I want to build.other parts like spacers IO socket strips.standsetcMy wife is, at the same time, getting the equipment to do lost wax casting for her jewellery making and this can create items from silver, gold, brass, copper so MAYBE if the 3D printer is capable of making things with material that has a low enough melting point I can effectively make metal items too. She could also use this to make jewellery and other items.I want a reasonable working size and accuracyDual colours would be nice but not a deal breakerI want to be able to use various plastics.OK. So I'm more than capable of putting stuff together to a design and programming devices etc but being able to use a commercial/public domain 3D modelling package would be VERY useful especially if it encompasses libraries etc. (my electronics CAD system is KiCAD).So any suggestions? My absolute budget is around £300-400 maybe £500 at a push BUT I want a new bench PSU so can't spend too much and I'm also moving my workshop into one of the spare bedrooms so would like money to cover that).Thanks in advance. I did do searches but as this technology changes rapidly most comparisons are out of date or only involve commercially available out of the box systems - which would be nice but if I can build a much better one for the same price I'll do that.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 01:32:54 pm
content: An Ender 3 will leave plenty of room for upgrades, or go for a CR-10(s) if you want something bigger but that would push the budget.Prusa MK3 is regarded as the highest end printer that makes sense for a hobbyist, but that's well out of budget.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 03:59:10 pm
content: if you make solid setting molds with silica you can probably use a plastic that is dissolved by an aggressive solvent to make metallurgical molds

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 05:07:49 pm
content: Quote from: NiHaoMike on November 04, 2018, 01:32:54 pmI second this! Prusa MK3 pretty good as stock.Ender 3 very good for modding and improving for it cheap price.SLA printer is good to make molds for silicone molding, precision work or casting using special casting resin, which is what you requesting:FDM printers have water soluble filaments and are cheap, best way to go for easy and fast enclosuresSLA is expensive and out of your budget, still the best way to go for casting or small molding models (https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/721-original-prusa-sl1-3d-printer-curing-and-washing-machine.html)So one doesn't replace another, best if you have both, go with the one that will be more usefull or payoff betterMy modded Ender 3 in attachment, Direct Drive Bondtech BMG, TMC2208, MKS GEN L, print like MK3

author: cowasaki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 07:07:22 pm
content: When I type Prusa Mk3 into ebay I get loads of cheap printers costing around £100. What am I specifically looking for?Thanks everyone....

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 07:08:53 pm
content: Quote from: cowasaki on November 04, 2018, 07:07:22 pmThats trash, you must look here:https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/17-3d-printers(The original)

author: cowasaki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 07:16:15 pm
content: Thanks. Just been to their website. I don't mind waiting till January and £700 although more than my budget is doable if I postpone my new bench PSU and stick with the one I already have.Their older ones still look good but some of the specs for the Mk3 are what I am after........

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 07:18:02 pm
content: Quote from: cowasaki on November 04, 2018, 07:16:15 pm700£ as kit, if you want assembled is more, but is up to youMK3 worth the extra, but some smart features are more a pain than a helpfull feature (I have mine all disabled)

author: cowasaki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 07:38:45 pm
content: Quote from: sn4k3 on November 04, 2018, 07:18:02 pmI'm thinking more about the vast quantity of different materials, 5 different materials at once and size!I am sure that I should be able to assemble the thing so long as there are instructions and setup information :-)

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 07:41:21 pm
content: Quote from: cowasaki on November 04, 2018, 07:38:45 pmWell it can print almost everything avaliable for FDM due direct extruder and high temps it can reach.Is a stable and good printer, for me the magnetic bed is the best feature as i had MK2s beforeInstructions are good and clear, just need some time and go slow

author: cowasaki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 07:54:07 pm
content: Quote from: sn4k3 on November 04, 2018, 07:41:21 pmIt's nearly a £1000 with 5 colours!

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 08:00:41 pm
content: Quote from: cowasaki on November 04, 2018, 07:54:07 pmAh you talking about MMU, i think you talk about material capability.MMU is cool but is a waste of plastic since you need a purge block. My suggestion is get MK3 without it and after if you fell a need for it grab it, but first master the mk3.With stock mk3 you can do unlimited colors, but you need to change manually and use a program to insert the Gcode for color change, not hard but only useull if you print whole layers with same color and don't have to change multiple times. Eg: if you have many colors on same layer, change manually will be a painEdit: With stock:

author: cowasaki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 08:02:48 pm
content: Quote from: sn4k3 on November 04, 2018, 08:00:41 pmOK. I'm surprised there isn't a combined price. If you buy the mk3 and mmu kit then the mmu kit replaces parts of the mk3 so you are buying things you will never use.

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 08:06:17 pm
content: Quote from: cowasaki on November 04, 2018, 08:02:48 pmIt was before, on pre order. Now you should ask support if any discount.But it won't replace any part, it only add parts. Still if replace any will do a minor printed part which cost near nothing to produce.See the photo i attach on other reply

author: cowasaki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 08:40:26 pm
content: They said that the cost of the "spare" bits is about a fiver and having them allows you to switch back and forth. They also advised using the mk3 as normal before adding the extra.What software do you use to build the 3D model in the first place?

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 08:46:10 pm
content: Quote from: cowasaki on November 04, 2018, 08:40:26 pmSoftware is a personal choise, i use only the Autodesk Inventor, because was the first i opt to use, so i learn it, still i'm a noob there. I find it easy for noobs just like me.Most of people use Fusion 360

author: Wolfgang
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 08:47:24 pm
content: Quote from: cowasaki on November 04, 2018, 10:26:18 amAfter trying a StrataSys Mojo, then a uPrint, then a MakerBot 2X and not being happy with *any* of those, I now have a UltiMaker 3 and this one works this PLA, PVA, CPE, ABS, PC and other stuff.Some details here:https://electronicprojectsforfun.wordpress.com/3d-printing-desasters/

author: cowasaki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 09:03:11 pm
content: Thanks.I get a free licence for Fusion 360 which I've just installed. Will have a look at the alternatives as well.

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 09:18:03 pm
content: Quote from: cowasaki on November 04, 2018, 09:03:11 pmNice, start learn it and stick to itFor free ready to print models you can look here:https://www.thingiverse.com/

author: niner_007
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 10:38:32 pm
content: An SLA printer, because of the failure rate of prints on FDM printers, shrinkage, and terrible innaccuracy. SLA printering isn't for everyone, the cleaning, supports are a really, really great pain to deal with, and the resin flow can cause deformation or errors if the model is not oriented correctly. But, SLA printers are immediately useful and valuable, and if they are not suitable for you, the answer is not FDM, but likely SLS. I had huge amounts of pain with FDM, I simply do not believe in it as a technology, and I do not believe it has any future. I'm using these for industrial, prototypes btw, your milage might vary if you're into props and such.

author: Wolfgang
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2018, 11:05:06 pm
content: Quote from: niner_007 on November 04, 2018, 10:38:32 pmSee my last post, I had all these issues by the dozen. Now there is a PolyMaker filament that does not warp or shrink, taking away a lot of prints that inevitably failed in the past. With this, you can print 100% filled, large flat surfaces and they will not come off. Maybe try this ?

author: niner_007
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2018, 01:06:34 am
content: Quote from: Wolfgang on November 04, 2018, 11:05:06 pmthanks! that's good to know, but I personally never going back to FDM

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2018, 01:09:32 am
content: Well i only had positive experiences with FDM, the worst problem i enconter was the ABS warp due temperature, which i fix with a enclosure, other than that all come out perfect.I only had original Prusa MK2s, MK3 and Ender3. Prusa is problem free at least for me.I think every tech as it downside and upsides, SLA/FDM/SLS/CNC all they have good and bads things and one doesnt replace anotherShrinkage:Once you use same filament brand and tune your printer for it is not a problem, if i print 20x20mm cube and 60x60mm cube the output size match both X Y Z on my mk3innaccuracy:Again once tunned accuracy is pretty good, also depend on what nozzle you use. I always set 0.4mm tolerance for my snapfit parts or holes, it work just greatfailure rate FDM:Never had one while printing PLA or PETG after first layer is good, a good printer here make a difference. ABS otherway yes due lack of enclosure. There are crazy people printing 80h objects on a stupid Ender3 with success, and thier confidence is high, but me for example wouldn't do that on a stock ender 3Of course this will vary, and money we invest make a difference, is same as people buy a 50 EUR android and only have problems, then they convert to iPhone and praise apple for his great system, when they never tried a 400 eur android before or a good brand without buggy/bloated OS.SLS is the very best right now, but not for everyone pocket, 12k EUR for the Fuse1? The quality/price most affordable printer?

author: riccardo.pittini
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2018, 07:01:13 am
content: My suggestion depends on really what you want to do with it and the maximum dimensions you want to print...In my case I have 2FDM printers, a big (Tevo Little Monster) and a small one like replicator. They both required mods to make them print very good (learning curve if you are not worried).In general for a low budget I would recommend:Anycubic Photon (SLA) about 400-450USD:- Very high resolution- You can find different resins (colour/strenght)- But small size and you have to get comfortable in handling the resinsAnycubic Mega I3:- It has very good reviews- it's almost standard printing size FDM- Reviews are really good on itSeems that recently Anycubic has been producing "decent" printers (good price / quality trade-off). Meaning that you still get a china printer... but with a slightly higher quality control and higher chances that the printer works "ok-well" out of the box.Then if you like hacking things... you will always find improvements and you will be doomedNOTE: I am NOT sponsoring Anycubic!!!