hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Please compare two  fast mains transient protection circuits - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ocset
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2018, 04:18:38 pm
content: Hi,Which of the two Mains Transient protection circuits (attached) will give the best mains transient protection…top or bottom?There is also a Littelfuse surge protection device in the AC line (not shown here), but it has 1100V of let-through.(we don’t have much room on the PCB)

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2018, 05:45:57 pm
content: I'm not an expert, but are there any reasons not to use simply a TVS for example?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2018, 09:22:32 pm
content: Be a bit surprised if either passes your toy "transient generator", let alone a real 61000-4-5 surge.Tim

author: ocset
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2018, 12:29:00 am
content: QuoteThanks thats a good question.......we cannot use a TVS, because there are none on the market that give enough protection at the 450V level, without also being triggered on high level UK mains.TVS's unfortunately, as you know, dont conveniently clamp at a certain voltage, they rather start clmaping at a lower voltage, and then as the curerent in them rises, their clamp voltage also rises......eg a 440V TVS starts clamping at around 440V.. but when there's 2.7A flowing in it...it is clamping at 660V or so.............such a TVS would stray too far above the 450V level to be any good at protecting our 450V rated LED driver IC.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2018, 09:52:44 am
content: then if you know what the driver's operating current is, size the fuse correctly to trip if the tvs diodes start conduction.

author: ocset
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2018, 10:10:30 am
content: Thanks, but we want to survive the transinet , and go on working, not trip the fuse.
Please confirm that TTL does not have a special connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: t1d
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2019, 12:31:52 am
content: The best that I can tell, TTL does not have a special connector, like USB, or RS232. Looks like there are common colors for the signal wires, but that there is not a particular connector... It appears that DuPont connectors and pin headers are commonly used. Do I have this correctly? Thank you for your help.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2019, 12:35:59 am
content: TTL is a technology, it has no relationship to connectors.

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2019, 12:45:16 am
content: TTL = transistor transistor logic. Used by itself, it most likely refers to the IC chips from the TTL family.However, that is clearly not what you're talking about. My guess is you're talking about TTL-level serial connections. And the answer to that is: No, there is no hard standard since it's not generally used as an external interface. You can't even count on the order of the pins to be consistent.Now if you're talking about a specific PURPOSE of the connector, there may be some standard pinouts that are usually followed, but you'll have to get specific in your question if you want those answers.

author: t1d
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2019, 01:08:34 am
content: Quote from: Nusa on August 10, 2019, 12:45:16 amYes, TTL-level serial connections. Thank you for confirming my thinking. I am marking this as "Solved."

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2019, 01:11:03 am
content: FTDI pinout seems to be the most popular -https://www.usbgear.com/images/GM-TTL3VT_pinout.jpg

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2019, 06:19:00 am
content: To be pedantic, one might think you're referring to the old parallel port (IEEE 1284), which is TTL leveled, and does not have a special connector (it's just a generic DB-25; or maybe that's too special, I don't know).But yeah if you just mean TTL level asynchronous serial, it's at least three pins, that shows up wherever the hell the designers had free space. Could be pads or vias on a PCB, could be a header, could be a connector proper. It's not much to sort out so I wouldn't worry about trying to conform to anything specific.Tim
Please Could Someone Check My Math? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2019, 08:37:24 am
content: Yeah, I know I'm not a beginner, but beginners might appreciate the problem and the solution.I want to measure a +/- 2V DC voltage with an 18-bit ADC. 18 bits is 0 - 3FFFF hex but as I am measuring positive and negative voltages 0V is 20000 hex and 2V will give an output of 3FFFF.1FFFF is 131071 decimal so a change of one bit in the output is equal to 2/131071 or 0.0152589 millivolts.Is my math correct because these numbers seem awful small?

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2019, 09:09:13 am
content: 4V range / (2**18) gets the same answer. However, that leaves you no room for calibrating the center point without chopping off one side or the other, so you may want to widen the range a bit to allow for that.Also, you'll want to calibrate the resolution from real-world measurements once you've made your hardware, not perfect-case math. All your components have limited precision.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2019, 09:59:25 am
content: That looks about right if you have a 2.00000V reference for the ADC. 15.26uV is mighty small - expect the lower bits to be mostly noise. Trying to get clean LSBs from anything more than a 12 bit ADC is *DIFFICULT*

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2019, 12:22:07 pm
content: Quote from: German_EE on April 20, 2019, 08:37:24 am±2 Vpk = 4 Vpp,4 / 2^18 = 0.000015259 V = 0.015259 mV = 15.259 uVBut in real world it's not so easy, because ADC has some aperture uncertainty, non-linearity and missing codes.So, in real ADC some bits may have a little different weight than expected.The result also will depends on ADC clock purity (jitter) and input signal frequency/spectrum.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2019, 12:36:08 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on April 20, 2019, 09:59:25 amit's not difficult, it just requires more narrow bandwidth. You can apply low pass filter with desired bandwidth and get more clean LSB. Of course it will require more time for measurement, because low frequency signal measurement requires longer measurement time.In order to measure real DC (0 Hz) with maximum precision, you will need infinite time for measurementBut there is no real DC in real world, any DC is actually AC with very low frequencyRegarding to the noise, our real world full of noise, for example Brownian motion is a noise. Electron motion also noisy (electrons behavior very similar to gas molecules), so you will not be able to get clean LSB for wide bandwidth ADC, because there is no clean DC in real world.

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2019, 07:24:01 am
content: Thank you for all of the replies, I will now have some fun over the Easter weekend experimenting with low noise DVM front ends and guard bands. Chocolate may be involved.
please critique this linear PSU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2016, 02:02:14 pm
content: Hello everyoneFinally, after months of research, I'm about to assemble yet another prototype of a linear bench PSU. Could you please have a short look at it? May be there are some obvious mistakes?Basically, it's a regulator from LT3080's datasheet + blackdog's preregulator:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/very-low-noise-preregulator-for-benchtop-power-supply/msg626382/#msg626382. Input: ~12V, output: 0-12V, 1.1A.To be assembled on a protoboard with a ground plane (twin industries 8100-45). I attached how it supposed to look like if done right. Some components share holes, this is intended. Topmost TO-220 are misaligned on the picture, this is a rendering issue. Also, diptrace does not support vertical mount of resistors and diodes I replaced them with generic stubs with proper lead spacing.
Please critique this SA usage - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Chris Wilson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 01:53:19 pm
content: Someone who lives very close to me has said he is seeing a strong spurii at 137.400kHz on my 137.550 LF WSPR signal. I changed the amps power supply in case it was that, as it was an unregulated supply. It's now running off a pair of series connected 48V HP computer server supplies. Bear in mind this amp gives a good 1kW out, but antenna efficiency at such a low frequency is pitiful. I looked at a full power transmission via a small active RX antenna connected directly to my SA. Am I right in thinking given the RX antenna is within 15 feet of the TX antenna my signal at 137.400kHz is well down and should not be a problem? I am not very good with an SA... Thanks.

author: dmills
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 03:43:47 pm
content: You need to turn the input attenuator up until the carrier is not shooting off the top of the screen.Then look at the number of divisions between the carrier peak and the spur, the analyser is in 10dB per division mode so you can easily calculate the difference.It is worth looking the same distance the other side of the carrier as well as AM spurs (Typical of power supply noise in a class E amp) will tend to show up as both sidebands.You may well be seeing a lot of mixer spurs internally generated by the analyser given that you have the input power being well excessive, these will likely drop anway far faster then you would expect as you attenuate (It is one of the ways you know they are mixer intermod).73 Dan M0HCN.

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2016, 12:59:55 pm
content: Yep, any power coming in over-driving you main mixer will result in a bunch of spurs, even if it's off screen. Most HP analysers I've seen like the mixer to run at -10 dBm, so set your attenuation to bring your input signal below -10 and try again.We've had engineers come in "guys the transmitter has a ton of noise all over the GPS band!"when they were feeding the SA 15dBm from a coupler but had the SA at the minimum 6dB attenuation when they were looking at the GPS band. A filter to kill the carrier convinced them that it was just poor measurement technique.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2016, 01:59:22 pm
content: Quote from: ConKbot on October 25, 2016, 12:59:55 pmTo make it clear to a beginner, that is -10dBm at themixer'sinput, not the instrument's input.QuoteAs with any measurement, but especially with RF instruments, it is worthwhile playing around with the controls to see what happens. If you expect what you see, great; if not then also great - because you will learn something.The most excitign sound in science isn't "Eureka!", but "That's odd..."
Please double check my capacitor ID - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jasenrogers
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 16, 2019, 01:24:05 am
content: I hate asking noob questions, but I am definitely a noob! ;-) I have these two capacitors that I want to replace. Am I correct that these are leaded tantalums? They are on an old VGA card I am trying to fix. You can see in the pics that the card is displaying banding and noise on the screen. I have changed cards and systems three times. It only occurs with this card. I have a DE-5000 ESR meter and only one of the 475s seems to read what I am thinking. Gonna pull them to check out of circuit. I don't really understand this meter though. No instructions came with it so I am just kinda playing with it. Anyway I want to have new caps on hand when I pull anyway. So all but one are labeled 475 16K. The other is labeled -a 1u0 35. Am I correct that the first one is 4.7 microfarad at 16 volts and the second one is 1 microfarad at 35 volts? Am I ok just replacing these with more leaded tants at these specs? Thanks!

author: AVGresponding
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2019, 06:26:53 pm
content: Tantalum capacitors are the work of the devil and frequently visit equipment with fire and explosions.Better to use modern high quality electros.Your interpretation of the markings is correct, I'd just add that the "K" marking indicates a 10% tolerance.
Please explain the difference between Class D current and voltage mode - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Chris Wilson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2019, 09:20:17 am
content: I have Googled but still unclear, could someone explain in simple terms how to tell from a schematic or otherwise if a low frequency RF amplifier is operating in voltage or current mode. I can cite an example, my confusion here is it is said to be voltage mode, yet the LPF seems one I normally see for current mode... very confusedThanks

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2019, 08:16:26 pm
content: Because it's using both. Or neither.Within a cycle, L3 maintains fairly constant supply current. This feeds TR1/2 and C9-C11 capacitances without extreme peak currents (well, give or take how TR1/2 switching goes; when tuned for an inductive or resistive filter input impedance, it should be alternating flats and sine humps, as a traditional Baxandall oscillator has, and the current will be steady).Over many cycles, L3's DC voltage drop is almost zero, so it tends to enforce a constant output amplitude (at the inverter, not necessarily so after the filter). So if there is suddenly a heavy load (due to some sort of mismatch, I suppose), current ramps up and up and up to maintain that voltage. Conversely, if load drops suddenly (opposite sort of mismatch?), the voltage on TR1/2 shoots way up. Both can easily result in blown transistors.It's a wide open loop, with neither current nor voltage protection -- not even having a current limited supply or TVS voltage clamps!So, for purposes of filter design, it is current mode.For purposes of amplitude, it is voltage mode.For purposes of switching and safety, it is open loop.Tim

author: Chris Wilson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2019, 09:37:57 pm
content: Thanks Tim, I agree protection is not its strong point, but my limited experience with Class D amps with protection is it can be a PITA at a simple level, in that the current inrush when a signal is initially implemented trips a current limiter, and setting it to such a level the inrush does NOT trip it leaves the protection marginal or none existent in the occurrence of a genuine issue. At my level I view FET's as sacrificial although of late I have developed the rest of the system to the extent where I no longer buy them in bulk

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2019, 02:50:20 am
content: It's only an LM393 and 74HC74 away, but suit yourself.Tim
Please explain the signal form as seen on the scope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: DJKA
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2013, 03:17:32 pm
content: Hi,how to read the signal shown in the pic below? Why there are two different voltage levels,at the same time instance, let's say @t1? This is what I am getting when probing a microcontroller's some output pin.Could anyone explain this to me please?Thanks.

author: AndyC_772
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2013, 03:28:43 pm
content: The image you're seeing is a composite of many, many sweeps across the display. If you see two distinct lines, as you do here, it means sometimes the signal is high (ie. at +5v) at that point in time relative to the trigger event, and sometimes it's low. The relative brightness of the two gives you an idea of how many times the signal is in each of the two states.

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2013, 03:29:32 pm
content: Quote from: DJKA on April 12, 2013, 03:17:32 pmIt is not the same time instance, you are seeing multiple views with the aid of the persistence of the scope's screen. You can address this in a number of ways. You can turn the timebase down so that you see less instances of the waveform, then maybe use X10 on the X axis to examine the waveform more closely. Alternatively, if you scope has a holdoff control, you could wind that in to reduce the multiple triggers.Edited to correct typo

author: dr_p
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2013, 03:36:07 pm
content: You are not triggering properly. This can be because the trigger level is outside of your signal's level (anywhere between 0 and 5V). Since you mentioned a MCU, your signal might not be periodic or, more precisely, there are more than one triggering occasions in a periodic signal. The analog scope needs multiple identical passes to show a stable waveform.see this for some extra info on triggering

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2013, 03:37:48 pm
content: more like digital signal of 4 bits (2 signals shown in scope) at one instance there are 2 x 1111, at another instance we have 2 x 1000. they are so fast interchanging and the result is the overlapped traces as shown.edit:ok just to waste my time, let me put all the possibilities for you: P = possibility, T = trigger:P1:T1: 1111-1111T2: 1000-1000P2:T1: 1000-1111T2: 1111-1000P3:T1: 1111-1000T2: 1000-1111P4:T1: 1000-1000T2: 1111-1111

author: DJKA
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2013, 04:07:30 pm
content: Well, that's interesting... it really did help me a lot ! Thank you guys very much!
Please have look at schematic for ESP-07S module - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2025, 02:39:19 am
content: I'm sharing a schematic here that I'm going to use for designing a PCB, its a minimal setup with a program port, SPI and UART outputPlease note that1. I did not put RESET button that will be controlled through USB programmer2. I2C pins are pulled up but they are not connected to main connector3. I did not need to add any voltage regulatorR2 = 470R5 is not set yetremain all Resistors are 10kC1 = 100nfC2 = 10ufDatasheet and picture are attached.

author: ahsrabrifat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2025, 07:23:42 pm
content: The design looks OK to me.
PLEASE HELP! How to send sensor signal to 5-10km? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: serhiip
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 14, 2023, 10:46:18 am
content: Now I detect motion with my Arduino Nano and 3pin (SIGNAL, 5V, GND) motion detectorWhen detector triggers, I need to send signal (distance at least 5km) to another Arduino Nano and catch it. As far as I understand, 433Mhz is the optimal frequency for this.Please suggest mewhat should I use?Which circuit, protocol etc. The solution should beas simple and as cheap as possibleThank you in advance!

author: bookaboo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2023, 10:54:11 am
content: Even the best LoRa would be a push. Check out GSM / NB-IoT relays.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2023, 09:19:20 am
content: Quote from: serhiip on January 14, 2023, 10:46:18 amCheap Chinese modules like in the attachments.The 4km transmitter I have used LOS 10+km.Some Ali links:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004724610649.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.13.37724718BT0wol&algo_pvid=03b6b78f-41f9-4d61-8732-38162bd01aee&algo_exp_id=03b6b78f-41f9-4d61-8732-38162bd01aee-6&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000030238794363%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%215.2%212.55%21%21%21%21%21%4021021b4716737741871477607d0688%2112000030238794363%21sea&curPageLogUid=6gPrMRnkkMAChttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005137561823.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.35088e4dVCvjml&algo_pvid=7fc2c91f-1c6d-4171-9bdb-b5bf67d00136&algo_exp_id=7fc2c91f-1c6d-4171-9bdb-b5bf67d00136-3&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000031812337481%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%219.98%214.99%21%21%21%21%21%4021224e9b16737743176432370d0666%2112000031812337481%21sea&curPageLogUid=HBw3NdErKt0S

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2023, 11:01:25 am
content: The range will depend greatly on the environment. Objects in the path between transmitter and receiver. RF noise, especially near the receiver.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2023, 11:46:12 am
content: Quote from: wasedadoc on January 15, 2023, 11:01:25 amYes of course, clear LOS is preferable but not always necessary.

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2023, 01:11:33 pm
content: With 433MHz, small objects like a few trees or cars are fine, but terrain or dense forest is not.5-10km is a lot; any off-the-shelf legal solution won't probably work. Going to illegally high transmit power is probably the solution.

author: Adrian_Arg.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2023, 08:35:38 pm
content: I have tested it up to 12km at thesehttps://reyax.com/products/rylr896/that if there has to be nothing between them, I tried them in an area free of city interference, in a rural area.

author: bidrohini
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2023, 02:24:46 am
content: This one covers 5km. The operating frequency is 2.4GHz.https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256801313642271.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt
Please help. A fluke meter being faulty right out of the box? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: IonizedGears
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2013, 12:34:47 am
content: I got my first fluke meter about a couple weeks ago from amazon and i have noticed that the lead detection on the Vohms etc, input doesn't work when i set the meter to amps and plug the positive lead into the Vohms etc. input but it does work when i have it set to amps/mA/uA and plug it into the Vohms etc. input. This is a fluke 87V by the way and i did check and it the Vohms etc. input does have a split contact so it would seem that it should be able to sense a banana plug in it. .Please respond quickly as i love fast replies. Pretty sad if it turns out my meter was faulty D: .

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2013, 01:05:47 am
content: If I understand your question correctly, it is working properly. See below.Edit: I cut & paste the instructions from the original 87 manual initially, but changed it to the 87V now.

author: IonizedGears
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2013, 01:32:46 am
content: So it is completely normal for the input detection to not work on the Volts input? Like if i had the leads plugged in to measure volts but the meter is set on the amps scale it wouldn't detect anything wrong? If so, is it because it is impossible to damage your meter if you accidently measure current from the volts input?

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2013, 02:52:04 am
content: Quote from: IonizedGears on February 01, 2013, 01:32:46 amThere is a high impedance between the Voltage input and Common, very very little current can flow through the unit that way. There is no safety hazard by having the leads in these jacks as long as the voltage ratings of the device are not exceeded, of course. The current input jacks have a very low impedance due to the current shunts. It is a safety hazard to have the leads in these jacks, hence the warning.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2013, 07:07:28 am
content: I found Dave's episode 373 on multimeter input protection tutorial to be very usefulfor my own education. I think if you view it, it will become more clear on how the 87V works even though the video is about the Fluke 27.http://www.eevblog.com/2012/10/19/eevblog-373-multimeter-input-protection-tutorial/

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2013, 07:10:21 am
content: And yes, Fluke multimeters are not indestructible and subject to potential QA problems just like any other company.Just recently, someone bought a new Fluke 87V and needed warranty repair after only about 1 week of use.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/new-fluke-87-v-is-broken/
Please help - buck converter step down with LMR14030S - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: doru.cazan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2023, 05:43:37 pm
content: Hello everyone! Could you please help me selecting the best PCB layout (purple or green?) for the buck converter in the picture? Both PCBs are double layer with back plane being a ground plane; only the green PCB has a single thin trace (the red line) on the back plane. I attached the schematic as well. Except the bridge rectifier and C1 and C2 capacitors, the schematic is the same as it was generated by the TI WEBENCH® Power Designer. Not sure if I need to provide more details but I will if any questions. In case you notice any catastrophic design mistake, please help with that as well. This is very much appreciated! Many thanks!
Please help connect module CSR8670 to SPI tools  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Marverza
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 15, 2017, 06:04:57 pm
content: hy community, I want to ask for help, I want to test a Bluetooth audio device, to be connected to bluetest3 CSR software for test mode.how to usb to spi tools connected with the CSR8670 Bluetooth module.please give me a schematic or diagram CSR8670 module in the picture
Please help Electronic (problem in power bank) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: modmabi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 18, 2019, 05:40:08 pm
content: one of a resistance it's blow up in the power bank and i don't have the number of it !! and I could not find any scheme for this Motherboard of power bankand chip that use in this power bank is mt4606and name of this Motherboard is yd178_bthe pic of Motherboardhttps://cdn.instructables.com/FNC/9H89/JTCSQI7U/FNC9H89JTCSQI7U.LARGE.jpg
Please help identify an IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Echo88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2024, 04:45:57 pm
content: Im searching for the partnumber and datasheet of the IC that is attached as an image: "X 3320"But im already having problems just identifying the manufacturer marking "X" or mirrored Ms?Its the main IC in a SFP transceiver model "Ubiquity UF-SM-1G-S".Package size is QFN 28.Of course Ubiquity might just produce their own ICs and dont release any datasheet at all, but one can have hope that its somewhere on the web.Reason for the search is the study of such ICs (like the Semtech GN25L95/GNL96 used in other SFP moduls) since im interested in modifying standard SFP moduls for hobby purposes, since they are very cost efficient.Thanks.

author: Echo88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2024, 11:30:46 pm
content: By opening another SFP-module i found an IC with the same logo and slightly different marking: 3328S.Searching this i got further: The manufacturer is UXfastic and the partnumbers are UX3328 and UX3320.I was however unable to get any complete datasheet of the UX3320, only of the UX3328 (no idea whether -S is making any difference) as an embedded pdf on a website:https://wenku.baidu.com/view/6836dd1d14791711cc79172a?pu=&bfetype=new&_wkts_=1722726147505&needWelcomeRecommand=1I havent been able to download the mentioned embedded pdf myself; as far as i can see it tries to grab money from you for wanting to download it?If someone is able to download the datasheet of the UX3200 from some obscure chinese server, i would be happy if you could post it here.Maybe this info will benefit other guys interested in this stuff.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2024, 08:33:33 pm
content: https://www.txrjy.com/thread-1189032-1-1.htmlyou need to register to downloadhttps://download.csdn.net/download/weixin_38585666/18478372also need registrationhttps://down.tendacn.com/uploadfile/TM5/TM5V1.0-Datasheet.pdfdatasheet of an SFP that uses the UX3320It is more likely you'll find the datasheet in Chinese.
Please Help Identify Connector  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2020, 05:52:54 pm
content: Please help identify the type of connector and the pin type. It belongs to a John Deere time delay control module. I want to make a 3 inch extension cable so I can probe it easier.

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2020, 02:43:16 am
content: Looks like 6.3mm automotive. Finding an exact match of that connector may be difficult but 6 way and 2 way are fairly easy to find . If you measure pin width and spacing centre to centre it might help in identification.
Please help identify this capacitor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: brichards42
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 01:08:33 am
content: Marking is:------------------F 1-0KND 250V1232------------------I measuredESR 6.7 ohm @ 100Hz0.27uFThis is from the power supply of a coffee pot.The 1-0K seems somewhat like markings that are on X2 rated capsso maybe it is supposed to be a 1uF? The 1232 doesn't seem to be apart no.

author: srb1954
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 03:35:57 am
content: Quote from: brichards42 on March 04, 2023, 01:08:33 amIt is not an X2 capacitor as those would be clearly marked as X2 and the voltage rating would be specified in VAC. I would say it is just a plain 1.0uF 250V film (probably polyester) capacitor. The K is the tolerance code for 10%.Since it has such a reduced capacitance it has probably suffered damage from mains transients which have burned away some of the internal electrode metallisation. A real X2 rated capacitor would withstand the mains transients somewhat better but would likely be significantly larger and might not fit in the space available.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 11:25:31 am
content: 1232I think its (20)12, week 32> second week in July or just my BS!I agree with brichards42 10% 1u 250V.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 11:36:31 am
content: If it was used as capacitive dropper, no wonder it failed. For such either 630V or X class caps should be used for 230V AC or at least 400V for 120V AC. For AC use, DC voltage rating of film caps basically should be halved. But I've seen 400V and 250V caps used for 230V and failing way too often.

author: brichards42
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 12:54:58 pm
content: Quote from: srb1954 on March 04, 2023, 03:35:57 amThank you for confirming it's probably a 1.0uF. I thought it was probably not X2 rated, there is another cap on the board which has a X2 marking.

author: brichards42
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 12:56:01 pm
content: Quote from: Terry Bites on March 04, 2023, 11:25:31 amDidn't think of a date code, I bet that's what it is.

author: brichards42
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 01:04:38 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on March 04, 2023, 11:36:31 amLine voltage is 120V AC.I had another coffee maker of the exact same model fail in the same way, I didn't try to fix that one however. Seems likely you are right that it is under rated for the job. Also I see the pcb has multiple footprints for this capacitor and can accept larger sizes. I think I will order one rated for at least 400V.Thanks.

author: brichards42
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2023, 12:06:23 pm
content: I replaced the failed capacitor with a 400V one and the coffee pot is working perfectly again.Interesting that the pcb was made to accept multiple sizes for this particular capacitor with one of the hole pairs matching the size of the 400V one.Thanks again to everyone who helped.
Please help me to identify this connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: quakef4
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 06, 2017, 07:47:13 pm
content: Hello!Can you help me to recognized the connector showed on the pictures?Thanks a lot!

author: mpicker21
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2017, 08:15:42 pm
content: That's a standard floppy drive power connector. If you're looking to buy start here:http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-171822-4.html

author: quakef4
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 06, 2017, 09:08:10 pm
content: Thanks!!!!!
Please help identify this SOT23 diode? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ocset
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2018, 07:44:07 pm
content: Hi,We have an offline LED lighting product from an old company. It had been running on the mains for two years.It has a high voltage linear regulator just downstream of a mains diode bridge (there is no smoothing capacitor after the diode bridge) . The regulator output is 2.5V. It just supplies a microcontroller. Connected from output to input of this regulator, is a SOT23 diode. This diode obviously stands off the rectified mains haversines (339Vpk).An ex member of staff assures us that this diode is a BAS16……but BAS16 is only rated to 100V. The diode itself is still functional, and is pinned out like a BAS16. But surely such a low voltage diode wouldn’t have been able to survive going across the mains?The diode has markings on it…….”kJB” ( or it might actually be “kJ8”)…and then perpendicular to this, it is marked “CN”.Does anyone know what actual diode this might be?BAS16 datasheethttps://www.vishay.com/docs/85539/bas16.pdf

author: mvs
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2018, 11:48:51 pm
content: Quote from: treez on November 21, 2018, 07:44:07 pmCJ mark is used for mmbz4683, 3V zener diode."CN" is probably logo of ON semiconductor.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2018, 01:25:53 am
content: Consider instead NXPTL431BQDBZR,SMD marking code "CJ%"

author: ocset
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2018, 07:12:44 pm
content: Sorry, Ive a massive apology to make....it is marked "KJ8" (or "KJB") and not "CJ8"...I was in the dept till late last night and had to leave before id got a good look.Im pretty sure no SOT23 diode in the world is rated for mains voltage?Aaah...solved it, its a 400v rated MMBD5004S, and it was made in Nov 2015

author: nali
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2018, 07:45:11 pm
content: Try Googling "KJB" and "SOT23"? Thevery firsthit gives MMBD5004, which is a 400V reverse breakdown part, the second hit gives the datasheet.HTH
Please help identifying a component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: chiasyan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 25, 2021, 01:29:42 am
content: Hello,Does anyone knows what type of component (NF2) is this (see image below)?Thank you.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2021, 01:35:48 am
content: This looks like a ferrite bead with embedded capacitor to the ground.The official name seems to be "Feed Through Capacitors".The style shown on the picture is thishttps://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata-Electronics/NFE61HT332Z2A9L?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252BjC5l7YZ09FKWX1Jt22slIRoBII78%3DBut the exact characteristics are impossible to tell from visual inspection.

author: chiasyan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 25, 2021, 01:49:37 am
content: Hi Ataradov,That's quick.Thank you very much for the help.
Please Help me as soon as possible (Proteus 8.11) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: BruhMoment
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 14, 2021, 02:42:36 am
content: I'm having this problem in Proteus... I think its called a tool bar but, It shrunk on me. I tried reinstalling Proteus I even went to registry editor and deleted Labsenter Electronics. I am using windows 10 pro with Proteus 8.11 running as administrator. Oh and this only happens on the PCB tab thing... Sorry I know I sound pretty dumb I'm just new to Proteus. Sorry in advance

author: BruhMoment
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 14, 2021, 04:52:12 pm
content: Turns out I had to redownload the installer. I was using the same one each time....
(Solved)Please help me determine this connector... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sam1275
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 01:09:24 pm
content: Hi everyone, I have a board that need a special connector to work, could anyone help me find a right one by looking at the 3 photos and the manual page? Thanks.I emailed JST and still waiting for response.

author: DroneBuster
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 01:43:45 pm
content: You should start by measuring pitch of connector. It should narrow down choices. But it looks like this one:http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eSH.pdf. You should check dimension with pdf

author: Blastcap
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 01:53:45 pm
content: It says right there in the third picture what the connector is, its a "SM14B-SRSS-TB"Availble form all major resellers, with reccomended mating partner.http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/SM14B-SRSS-TB(LF)(SN)/455-1814-1-ND/926885

author: sam1275
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 03:02:32 pm
content: Thank you very much, but I don't mean the connector itself, I want a plug with wire, that fit this connector, so I can connect things to this PCB.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 03:06:47 pm
content: Quote from: sam1275 on September 26, 2016, 03:02:32 pm.. and if you look at the connector fitted to the board, you'll find what series it is, from there it takes mere moments to find the mating part number..It's even linked for you right there on the Digikey page.

author: sam1275
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 03:26:30 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on September 26, 2016, 03:06:47 pmOh thanks, I didn't notice that...
Please help me find a suitable relay for my repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: knasterboll
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 10, 2018, 09:01:02 am
content: Hi guys!First post! Wohoo!I am repairing a clamp tire machine. The power board has a burnt relay. It's marked"Sanyou SMIH-S-112D" but I have no luck finding a good replacement spare for it.According to Sunyou's website it has the following specs:SMIH-S-112D Sealed type 1 Pole Coil Voltage 12V DC Form C Normalhttp://www.sanyourelay.ca/public/products/product_list_new.php?series=36&listby=2I have found the similar SMIH-S-112DM for sale but this is Form A, so it doesn't work.Is there anyone that can help me find a replacement from another brand?Best Regards, Mattias

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2018, 10:06:59 am
content: Welcome to the forum knasterbollThe best ones I know are the Omron G2R Series - the G2R-1-E 12DC to be specific,I think(double check the dimensions, pin spacing, coil voltage etc yourself). Almost certainly better quality than Sunyou, and being transparent, you can keep an eye on the contact condition. If there's a suppression capacitor across the contacts it might be worth replacing that too, but it's probably just wear-out.https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-latching-relays/0366293/
Please help me ID these 2 chips... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Logan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2022, 08:51:14 pm
content: Hi friends.I have 2 mystery chips on a Sanyo analog camera, photos attached.I cannot find any info by the markings, could anyone help me?Thanks!

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2022, 09:21:06 pm
content: judging by the font .. sanyo chips...
Please help me identify (mark) a radio element (Garmin T5) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Rudbes
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 12, 2024, 11:00:41 am
content: Hello!Please help me identify the radio element shown in the photos below... one of them heats up to about 90 degrees Celsius when trying to turn on the collar

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2024, 06:50:19 pm
content: Marking appears to be JH1https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop@18:25

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2024, 07:32:01 pm
content: LDO regulator? Any shorts to ground?

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2024, 09:16:02 pm
content: I might know what it is. It's a balloon. Transformer basically.
Please help me identify this component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ercapoccia
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2014, 11:32:50 pm
content: Hi there, i've a broken board which miss one of those components but i've not clue what to look for on the e-shop. They are marked as L1, L2,L3 ecc.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2014, 12:08:58 am
content: e.g.http://search.murata.co.jp/Ceramy/PnsearchViewAction.do?sLang=en&search=startwith&sKey=NFE61PTI've used them from time to time. Seems to do the job, but beware especially for the larger values (high impedance / capacitance) under bias (moderate to high current or voltage levels), they'll drop off, like all ferrite beads / high-K ceramic caps do.How exactly is the board "missing" one? They don't just up and fall off, it's quite possible the board was assembled with unpopulated positions to begin with and has nothing to do with your broken board.In a pinch, you could very likely replace one with a wire jumper spanning the two furthest pads (but skipping the middle pad). Filtering is important for reliable operation, but not usually for critical function.Tim

author: ercapoccia
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2014, 12:26:59 am
content: I can garantee that this component i suppose to be there. I have multiple brand new items of the board and they are all the same, with that component there.Actually i don't know how it is possible. What could appen if you short a 220v between the external pads?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2014, 07:36:48 am
content: Well, a line to line short would probably vaporize most of what was there...If you had mentioned there was naught but a puff of smoke left on the board, that might be a hint.Tim

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2014, 08:01:04 am
content: Now I want to see a picture of the board with the missing filter,Just to satisfy my curiosity on what happened there.

author: ercapoccia
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2014, 08:19:22 am
content: Sorry i forgot to thank you guys for your help.Actually i can't take a picture bucause i've already transplanted the component from another broken board.There was no smoke at all and no sign of desoldering. There were just some metal residue on the pads though, it was like the component was mechanically removed somehow.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2014, 08:21:39 am
content: Thank Tim not me, I just wanted to see a gory picture of a component blown out of it's place by 220V
Please help me identify this component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: danamaniac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2024, 02:29:07 am
content: Hi lads please help me figure out what this guy is. The footprint is correct but the component in the eda software is apparantly a lipo charging ic which it cant be.

author: danamaniac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2024, 02:30:22 am
content: Its the component circled in blue.

author: Kim Christensen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2024, 03:12:48 am
content: Looks like some sort of logic/buffer chip. Any markings on it?Maybe it's a SN74LVC1G04?

author: ArdWar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2024, 03:13:38 am
content: That (and the other smaller one on top) is certainly single gate logics.https://www.ti.com/logic-voltage-translation/logic-gates/products.html#1498=Catalog&2955=5&sort=1512;asc&Figuring out which particular one requires more circuit context or markings of course. Although with pin 1 left unconnected it might be buffers or inverters/NOT.https://www.ti.com/logic-voltage-translation/buffers-drivers-transceivers/products.html#1498=Catalog&2955=5&PS: If you design a board and need buffers/inverters, it might be good idea to tie pin 1 and 2. That way you can potentially simplify your BOM, or expand your part substitution choice when SHTF.
PLEASE  help me identify this iC Mcu! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Gcomm09
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 02:25:06 pm
content: The markings were scratched offIt's 24pin I believe 4mm x 4mmI believe built in can and usb

author: Dan123456
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 02:35:48 pm
content: I’m a newbie so probably would be able to help you one way or the other but it might help if you advise what the board is from and provide a model number etc.I.e. “It’s the main board from a from a el cheapo 2014FR-FZQ05CD RFID reader” or what whatever the case is

author: Gcomm09
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 02:37:53 pm
content: Thanks, it's from a device call i/O Terminal, meant to read and write via can bus to automotive ecus via USB.

author: Dan123456
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 03:12:10 pm
content: From a quick google of I/O tool if found theseFirst one lists a whole bunch of different (like 100) versions but lists the MCU’s for each.The second says it has some wiring diagrams and manuals and what have you listed.https://ecutools.eu/chip-tuning/ioterminal/http://ioterminal.com/?page_id=148That is pretty much all I am able to do to help unfortunately but hopefully you can compare the one you have with those and find a matchHope that helps!

author: Gcomm09
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 03:29:46 pm
content: Thanks but this lists ecu it connects to but not the mcu inside the device I'm trying to identify. If you see the picture I posted, mcu model # is scratched off..

author: voltsandjolts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 04:30:34 pm
content: Repair?Dead MCU? That device will also have firmware loaded on it, so even if you find an exact replacement part, you won't have the firmware, and the unit is scrap.On aquick search, I can't see any 24pin Microchip brand MCUs with built in CAN.

author: Gcomm09
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 04:44:56 pm
content: I have another working unit I can copy information from if I can find the chip model..

author: liaifat85
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 04:50:48 pm
content: The pin count looks similar to Stm8l052c6t6 Microcontroller.

author: voltsandjolts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 05:11:41 pm
content: Quote from: Gcomm09 on October 01, 2023, 04:44:56 pmNah. 99% chance firmware is read protected.

author: Gcomm09
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 05:56:36 pm
content: Too many pins on that one. This one is 24 pins..