hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
EA power supply - few pictures & description & repair attempt - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: widlokm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2022, 11:20:00 am
content: Hello,I've seen a thread here about Elektro-Automatik gear, and now I have a broken EA power supply on my bench - maybe someone will find interesting this pictures and description. At the end I also have a few questions about ongoing repair.This is a typical industry type 1kW power supply with 100-230V AC input, 80V/40A max output (power is always limited to 1kW!), and it has a nice analog input/output controls. Voltage & current can be set with 0-10V input signals, while output is monitored with another pair of 0-10V output signals. Accuracy is not best, however I thing that I will add a "control panel" for it to make a small nice high power regulated bench power supply for my lab. Of course none of service manuals/schematics are available, fortunately user manual is detailed about I/O control connections. Constriction of this PS is interesting: typical rectifier bridge at the input, then PFC with coil & 2 big capacitors in parallel, but then fun starts. Next we have a DC-DC converter with 2 MOSFETS (half bridge), transformer, bank of FKP 0.1uF capacitors to create a dual +/- voltages, filter coil, diodes and bank of 160V DC filter capacitors. Then there is another DC-DC step down converter with big coil, single MOSFET, diode, bank of 100V DC filter capacitors, then filter coil, some more capacitors and finally output.I assume that EA wanted to limit currents and simplify controls in the first DC-DC converter that most likely produce constant out voltage, and output control and regulation is done with last step-down DC-DC converter. Control board has ICs for PFC and first DC-DC converter, but controls of the last one seems to be created from scratch with op-amps, and so on.The fault description was very simple - input shorted. That was quickly confirmed, the short is directly on the rectifier bridge output terminals. Knowing this I've checked all power mosfets & diodes and bingo - PFC mosfet is shorted. Fortunately the short is only on D-S, not on gate. Damaged mostfet and insulation pad both have clear marks of short in one spot - I assume that moisture, or manufacturing flaw created a weak spot there that finally failed. Because of clear short circuit marks and because PFC mosfet gate is not shorted to anything I assume that control circuits are still OK - hope that I'm not to optimistic.My questions:1. This is rather new unit (most likely from 2018), but I found some "famous" RIFA capacitors there. Should I replace them, or not? I do not know if such new Rifa caps are problematic, or they were fixed long ago.2. What should I use as a insulation pad? I need 2 large sheets that will cover a few TO-247 element each, I definitely don't want to put back old ones. Old looks like semi-transparent orange foil.3. If someone has any more info or documentation (more then user manual) about this PS than please let me know.Best Regards,Michael Widlok
EA Sine/Square Wave Oscillator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Gangway
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2023, 04:31:56 am
content: Looking for DSE / EA Kit K-7340 project article, to restore his unit.

author: Shonky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2023, 06:25:23 am
content: https://archive.org/details/EA1992/EA%201992-03%20March/page/n57/mode/1u?
Earthy logic board for Solartron (Schlumberger) 7071 or 7081 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: perdrix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2022, 10:17:27 am
content: Does anyone have a dead Solartron 7071 (or 7081) with a good earthy logic board that they're prepared to let me have for a suitable consideration?ThanksDavid

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2022, 01:46:18 pm
content: What's wrong with your original one?Chris Williams

author: perdrix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2022, 03:33:55 pm
content: Lets just say it won't start up and I've burnt more hours trying to fix it than I care to think about. Swapped eproms (tick), checked logic ICs (tick), checked solder jumpers (tick), replaced RAM (tick), replaced processor (tick) ... etc etc.I know it's that board as I borrowed one from a 7081 and it worked straight away.

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2022, 11:30:51 pm
content: Any evidence of battery corrosion on it?There is one on eBay but it would cost four figures by the time you've paid postage and import charges on it !Chris Williams
easiest repair - Behringer Mx882 mixer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: cncjerry
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 09, 2024, 08:02:39 pm
content: It was listed as not working with this in the description:"Selling for Parts or Repair. This item(s) can not be returned. This is for repair by a professional technician. Even if this item is untested, it will still not be working and need repair.Do not purchase if you hope it will simply work, it won't."Needing the mixer, I figured what the heck, probably a socketed opamp in the output. It only has four 1/4 jacks on channels 5 and 6 and they aren't outputs as much as in/out splits from main.Plugged it in, unpunched all the lit switches as they are splitters not on the output bus and it works fine. I guess that makes me a professional technician!Operator error to the rescue.Hope all is well.Jerry

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2024, 10:08:49 pm
content: I might be able to best that.I bought a 5.5 digit Keithley 199 multimeter in "for parts" condition for $20. The auction site listing showed that it would display only "-----" for all functions. When I received it, it did indeed display that, until I pressed the Trigger button to start measurements. Then it worked great! One-button fix. I had an unfair advantage, as I already owned another K 199 and knew that it displayed "-----" when not triggered.
Eaton 5px 1000i rt2u g2 "battery fault" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: _buld
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 12, 2024, 11:46:49 am
content: I hope it is firmware error and not battery error.I have Eaton 5px 1000i rt2u g2 with installed gigabit card Eaton Network-M2. The error "battery fault" appeared almost after one year of operation without any problem. The UPS was still during warranty period so in my service they replaced batteries. But after 3 days the error "battery fault" reappeared.I have made firmware upgrade of Eaton gigabit M2-card and and than UPS.1, firmware upgrade of Eaton Network M2-card to the last firmware 3.1.122. firmware upgrade of UPS Eaton 5px 1000i rt2u g2

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2024, 06:24:38 pm
content: Why didn't you send it back?It can be as simple as a bad connection, but 3 days is pretty far from acceptable repair.

author: _buld
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 11, 2024, 09:01:44 am
content: It is one month from firmware upgrade and UPS works correctly.My UPS protects Synology NAS, PC, home network, Wifi router.If I send UPS for repair once more I couldn't operate NAS and home network.And the UPS is heavy for manipulation moreover.
Eaton PowerWare 9120 3000i - High O/P V - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: leniwiec
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2023, 09:04:57 am
content: HelloUPS as in the title. I get High O/P V error on lcd scrren and constant beep. I cant find any info in internet even service manual.Does anyone can give me any tips on how to start the repair on this ?

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2023, 07:33:29 pm
content: First you need to bypass few safety features, like removing some covers and possibly using the device without proper chassis.And definitely without proper protection against hazardous nuances, like mains, isolated and not.

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2023, 09:09:57 pm
content: First things first.What is the output voltage set to and what do you read with a DMM?

author: leniwiec
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2023, 02:10:28 pm
content: Quote from: edpalmer42 on June 07, 2023, 09:09:57 pmIt is hard to measure, because its instantly switch to bypass mode and turn off inverter. I just find out, that in the same time, when this error occurred, break connection on usb portCode:[1184457.106175] usb 3-2: reset low-speed USB device number 5 using uhci_hcd[1184457.382106] usb 3-2: device descriptor read/64, error -71[1184457.766109] usb 3-2: device descriptor read/64, error -71[1184458.146055] usb 3-2: reset low-speed USB device number 5 using uhci_hcd[1184458.422129] usb 3-2: device descriptor read/64, error -71[1184458.810121] usb 3-2: device descriptor read/64, error -71[1184459.186114] usb 3-2: reset low-speed USB device number 5 using uhci_hcd[1184459.602123] usb 3-2: device not accepting address 5, error -71[1184459.870169] usb 3-2: reset low-speed USB device number 5 using uhci_hcd[1184460.290165] usb 3-2: device not accepting address 5, error -71[1184460.290792] usb 3-2: USB disconnect, device number 5[1184460.418112] usb 3-2: new low-speed USB device number 6 using uhci_hcd[1184460.558120] usb 3-2: device descriptor read/64, error -71[1184460.806125] usb 3-2: device descriptor read/64, error -71[1184461.046139] usb 3-2: new low-speed USB device number 7 using uhci_hcd[1184461.182125] usb 3-2: device descriptor read/64, error -71[1184461.430128] usb 3-2: device descriptor read/64, error -71[1184461.542225] usb usb3-port2: attempt power cycle[1184461.542263] usb usb3-port2: failed to disable port power[1184461.670134] usb 3-2: new low-speed USB device number 8 using uhci_hcd[1184462.086168] usb 3-2: device not accepting address 8, error -71[1184462.214130] usb 3-2: new low-speed USB device number 9 using uhci_hcd[1184462.630145] usb 3-2: device not accepting address 9, error -71[1184462.630628] usb usb3-port2: unable to enumerate USB device
eBay Bench PSU - Common Weakness? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ssashton
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 01:49:58 pm
content: Hi Everyone,I have this bench PSU I got on eBay. I'm sure it's a very common model.It has broke twice! First it popped the P75NF75 and now it has popped both IRF840.All I did when it popped the IRF840 was reduce the current limiting to minimum while open circuit. Then fizz and a bit of smoke.Is there any known weakness in this design that I can improve?Thanks!

author: mawyatt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 02:10:32 pm
content: This looks like the one I have.Mine has so much output noise it's almost worthless for anything useful. I tried to add some filtering on the output but didn't help much, then found out that it puts out so much noise back on the AC input that it corrupts everything else aroundReal POSBest,

author: HB9EVI
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 02:52:11 pm
content: cannot say anything about general weaknesses, but the noise problem could be solved with common mode choke right before the DC outlets.also on the AC side is likely missing a CM choke, even though one is visible; it seems to be the usual minimalistic construction where all non-function-related parts are missing; already the AC outlet looks very flimsy wired up.

author: rvalente
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2020, 11:35:07 am
content: AFAIK the best rugged, easy to fix, easy to find, can handle a bunch of abuse and won't give on you are the older HP 61xx and 62xx and 64xx.
eBay Fluke 8842a - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: bigtexun
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 04, 2019, 03:53:38 am
content: I just purchased a Fluke 8842 DMM from eBay. It is functional, and seems to produce good readings. I'm working on getting some calibration standards together to give it a good test, but in general it seems fully functional...But I'm noticing strange behavior, and I wonder if it is a common/known/normal behavior. When powered up with an open corcuit on the test leads, it comes up in DC volts auto ranging mode, and displays a small positive voltage, typically around .4mv DC. The display updates at about .5hz, and the values change in negative increments until it reaches zero, then starts reading negative voltages. If you short the leads, it jumps to near zero (.005mv dc typically) But left open, the display updates every half second, drifting slowly toward more and more negative values, slowing down on a gradual basis. After a couple hours it is around -50mv and after 20 hours it is at .800 mv with the drift slowing down to less than .001 mv change every 30 seconds or so.It is acting like there is an internal voltage source just above .8v slowly charging a capacitor over the course of 20 hours. I've seen DMM's that drift around when the probes are open, but they usually just display random low values, they don't usually have a directional drift, and .8v is an awfully high and specific value. If I place it in a circuit, the measurements are rock solid and look accurate. So I'm happy enough with the meter, until I get my reference standards in to see how well calibrated it is...But my question is this open circuit slow drift to -.8vdc, is that normal? Or is that something someone has seen before?Thanks!George

author: z01z
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2019, 09:19:33 am
content: Meters with high input resistance behave like this. If you check the specs, 20V or below ranges have >=10G, while 200V and over have 10M.Try the same on the 200V range.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2019, 10:48:45 am
content: The behavior is normal. In the high Z mode there is still some residual input bias current from the input amplifier - usually in the +-50 pA range. his small current slowly charges the input capacitance (typically some 100 pF to 1 nF).The current can depend a little one the actual voltage so that there may be settling to a final values, but this is more like unit dependent and many meters continue drifting all the way to the range limit.With some extra capacitance (e.g. 10 nF - should be low loss like PS or PP film type) one can use the drift rate to measure the input current. This is one of the test one can do to check the meter input for too much input current.

author: BobRyan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2019, 06:35:44 pm
content: I have the same meter and it behaves the same way.
ZKETech EBD-M05 Electronic load!! Firmware stuck!! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: aniket9229
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 05, 2019, 04:40:13 pm
content: I bought EBD-M05 Electronic load, from bellow link:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/EBD-Mini-V3-battery-capacity-electronic-load-tester-tests-mobile-power-charging/32614219909.htmlAfter downloading EB tester v1.8.5I tried upgrading firmware but something went wrong and now device does not work, I have attached picture after firmware flashing, please help me to flash or restore with original firmware. Thanks in advance.

author: wictor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 04:43:09 am
content: What MCU it has and how you tried to upgrade the FW?Is it same as this, which has STM8 MCU?If yes, then you might need something like STLINK programmer and proper FW binary to make it alive again. That JP4 is probably SWIM programming interface. See e.g.http://digital-wizard.net/stm8_tutorials/programming_stm8_using_swimfor more info.Wictor

author: barbudor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 09, 2019, 05:31:55 pm
content: Hi @wictorI'm looking into purchasing the same model (or an EDB-USB+). But this one looks more interresting for generic usage (not specific with USB)Could you please kindly comment on your experience with this unit ?Or if you know links to some evaluations & tests, I will appreciate.Many thanksBest regardsbarbudor
ebike battery issues - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2023, 07:53:26 pm
content: i have a 54.6v 13s lion ebike charger,The other night at about 3am i had left my bike on charge overnight ,i had the charger inside with the cable running under my back door,about 3am i was awoken by a large crack,sounded like a starter pistol,upon looking my lower floor was under 14 inches or more of water( including my charger,i vut power to the charger and removed the output fuse to disconect it from the battery,upon drying it out it has no op and the charge status led does not light,to be fair after a brush to remove silt from the bottom of the pcb it all looks good,any idea where to start?,the mains fuse in the plug is ok,cheers .

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2023, 08:37:03 pm
content: this was the road outside my house at 4am,this was storm babet uk.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2023, 09:04:16 pm
content: Ugh, sorry to see the flooding.Regarding the charger / battery, at 55V DC, I suspect that some electrolysis happened really quickly, maybe hidden. From the timing of the storm, I don't think there has been nearly enough time to dry out the circuitry fully. In addition there will be more contamination than just silt. Washing thoroughly in deionised water, followed by trapped water removal using IPA and an extended warm air dry is probably the minimum starting point before attempting to power it up. Any water in the battery (I don't know how well sealed it is) is a concern too with regard to ongoing internal corrosion.Maybe you could post some photos.P.S. Given the situation and general stuff to be done, you might just be better putting them aside and adding them to the insurance claim, after all, they should be grateful that you weren't charging it in the house, err maybe it might be better if you were.

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2023, 09:29:20 pm
content: im not insured+ the battery was high up on the bike in a steel homemade waterproof case about 1ft above the water so should be ok,i cant see any bad tracks,it was tied to the condensor on my freezer for 24hrs so should be dry!.
ebike hall throttle issues - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2020, 11:52:20 am
content: Hi all,yesterday my ebike conked out,after a few checks i found no signal from the throttle,on inspection the 5v left leg of the hall sensor had coroded thru,no probs just replace the hall,originaly i would get a varying voltage output from abou.5v to 4.7v from the rh leg of the hall and ground,with the replacement its roughly .5v-2.2v depending on throttle position,if i put a 8k resistor between the lh input leg and the rh output leg,the output is 0v until the throttle gets to a certain point then jumps to 5v,there is no gradual rise as i turn the throttle,its all or nothing,any ideas?,cheers paul m3vuv.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2020, 08:54:53 pm
content: What was the part number of the original hall sensor and the replacement part?Sometimes it might make more sense to replace the whole throttle module.

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2020, 10:51:46 am
content: i dont know as they were illedgible,the replacement hall wa from an old brushless motor tho.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2020, 08:37:22 pm
content: There so many different hall sensors types.I would expect the hall sensor from a brushless motor to be on/off type and not produce an analog output, as is needed with a throttle control.https://se.rs-online.com/web/generalDisplay.html?id=ideas-and-advice/hall-effect-sensors-guide
EC 92 Vaccum tube - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ramakrishnan_at
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 11, 2020, 08:41:16 am
content: Hi AllI am looking for EC 92 or equivalent vacuum tube. Need to rectify my old music system. Kinldy help me to soruce thisI am from IndiaRk

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2020, 08:43:45 am
content: A ton of them on ebay, sometimes even for quite good prices.https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=ec92&_sacat=0

author: ramakrishnan_at
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 11, 2020, 08:55:22 am
content: i was searching any one from India. Or i need to pay 100% import duty and shipping charges more than the component cost
Echo 56v bms issue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Surepic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 31, 2025, 08:25:00 pm
content: Does anyone know how to reset echo 56v bms? Before replacing dead cell with identical one bms was showing 40ish volts between + and d-. After replacing all leds light up and i can observe 58.3v between + and d-.Bms on this pack differs significantly from 58v pack it has 3x8 pin eeprom ics and 3x20pin ics. Eeproms are interconnected i assume its for addressing and also 3 controllers are interconnected too which i think 2 of them are for battery cell monitoring i.e each one has its designated group and the last one is master one.There are no visible reset or rst pins only testpoint pins all over the board.The problem is charger doesnt recognize it and also equipment doesnt do anything which i think is communication issue. Power mosfet is working as i can put a load between d- and + pins.Tried holding battery indicator button for 30secs didnt do anything even tho i could observe some fluctuations at that time at pins s and d-.Thermistor is good showing 10k ohms.No loose connections or cracks board is thoroughly checked.Shorting d and d- with 1kohm resistor didnt do anything either.It seems to me that its in lockout state and needs a trigger to wakeup.Anyone came across this problem?Thanks.
Ecoflow Delta Max 2000 Repair - Part identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mslr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2023, 03:34:37 pm
content: Hello,I purchased a broken Ecoflow Delta Max 2000 and I‘m on the way to repair.Just a summary:Got the 50Hz Overload message - This was quite simpel. There is a 12A Fuse on the inverter board which had been plown. I replaced it and the error ist gone.Then I got a battery error - not allowing me to charge or discharge. A little bit more difficult. At the end it turned out, that the control-board (with the display) had to blown protection resistors (should be 100Ohm but was 3k). Therefore the control board could not communikate to the BMS. Changed them an I got the battery back.Now I was able to charge by DC but not by AC.When I plug in power to charge - the Charging power goes up to 3.800 Watt - but Battery is not charging. When I switch on the AC outlet I’m back at the overload error. AC switches off and the overload condition is restored a few seconds later.Inverter is not affected, I could drain full power on AC with correct power on the display.I traced the complete inverter board and it looks like that the current measurement to the Battery on the inverter board is damaged. It is a low side measurement with an Shunt of 250microOhm (4 1mOhm resistors in parallel) These shunts are connected to the inverter control board and connected to a current sensing amplifier (6-pin SMT device) with the marking 9A3LR. I checked all my sources but did not find anything with that marking - of course I could check for something that could fit but I do not want to redesign it. Checked Maxim, TI, STMicroelectronic, Microchip).This current sensing amplifier seems to be blown. Can anybody help me identifying that part?Thanks for the support.MartinFound part.It is an TP181A3-CR compatible with INA199 or INA210. Gain is 200. Ordered replacement. Let‘s see if I can repair it.
ecoflow repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jimg1949
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 13, 2024, 08:35:32 pm
content: I have a broken ecoflow 1500. It will not charge ( no front panel and no sighs of life). I want to see what is happening but cannot figure out how to open it.

author: testpoint1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2025, 09:16:32 pm
content: Quote from: jimg1949 on December 13, 2024, 08:35:32 pmmaybe is MCU chip short circuit
ECU injector driver MOSFET replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: nyogo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 07, 2025, 10:08:32 pm
content: Hi!I'm repairing a Magneti Marelli motorbike ECU, one of the injector driver MOSFET is failing(L1N06C). The problem is that the MOSFETs used in these ECUs are obsoletes.Original manufacturers were Motorola and Intersil/Haris:- Motorola MLD1N06CLhttps://alltransistors.com/adv/pdfview.php?doc=mld1n06cl.pdf&dire=_motorola- Intersil 650036Later Onsemi had MLD1N06CLhttps://www.onsemi.com/download/data-sheet/pdf/mld1n06cl-d.pdfbut it's obsolete now.Any idea what could be used as a drop-in replacement, because I see it's not a simple general purpose MOSFET.Thanks!

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2025, 11:10:24 pm
content: The STD70NS04ZL is a clamped MOSFET for automotive applications in DPAK, and is very similar to the part used to drive injectors in the well proven open source Speeduino ECU.https://www.st.com/en/power-transistors/std70ns04zl.html
ECU: Siemens S11868502 D SIM24 - Assistance in component value/s required - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jct
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2025, 11:52:45 am
content: I am not an ECU repair specialist. This faulty unit (Siemens S11868502 D SIM24) arrived on my bench and no schematics and board view files seems to be available. An unknown technician identified that one of the IGBT's are shorted (in the ignition coil drive circuit), and remove 2 components (refer picture below - most probable resistors in a melf package). The owner already replaced with a new coil kit as the primary winding was shorted. I can get hold of the IGBT, but do not know what are the values for the 2 components removed. Is there any ECU specialist in this forum that can assist? Thanks in advance. PS: This ECU comes out of a Ford KA 1.3 (Petrol).
ED0317 Motor Control Panel for Sealey Mig150 Welder - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: raygomm53
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 06, 2025, 10:11:28 am
content: Hi all - just joined. I've commited the cardinal sin and taken on a repair that someone else had started and left in a mess. The motor control board ED0317 has been disconnected and I've no idea which pins are which: FS1, FS2 and FS3. I've got 3 spade terminated leads and 3 tags on the board but theyre not marked which is which. I've got the correct circuit layout for the Welder but not for the ED0317 board. Can anyone help with which connection is where on the board>many thanksray

author: benj38
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2025, 05:22:11 pm
content: Please provide more information/images. Even the fact that you are trying to fix a welding machine was not stated clearly. "ED0317" is very little to go by, and would limit your ability to get a response to being lucky enough that a forum member that sees your post has recently had to deal with exactly the same board as you.

author: raygomm53
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 06, 2025, 09:34:20 pm
content: Quite right - thank you for pointing it out. The item in question is a Sealey mig150 Turbo welder ED0317 is the Motor Control PCB and I'm looking for a photo or drawing identifying the positions of FS1, FS2 and FS3 connectors.

author: benj38
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2025, 08:36:31 pm
content: If nobody comes up with the exact info you need within a few days, you may have to try and figure it out yourself, with some helpFor a start, we will need to know exactly what the three wires that should plug into the board are connected to, and have good images of both sides of the board.
Edge connector repair / improvement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: freeelectron
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 22, 2023, 12:30:35 am
content: Hey, my first post here.I'm troubleshooting an issue that I have with the autopilot of my airplane. I think I have narrowed it down to the edge connector where the autopilot interfaces with the rest of the avionics. These are two edge connectors in the back of the autopilot that connects to the female counterparts in the chassis.The male connector on the autopilot itself looks ok. The female connector in the chassis is a bit out of reach so I cannot tell for sure, but it looks dirty. I've tried spraying it with contact cleaner, but the situation didn´t improve.My question is, with the border condition I cannot remove the female connector, but I can reach it with a brush or similar, what's my best bet to improve the electrical connection? If there is nothing other than removing the female connector and replace it I'm going to do it, but want to avoid that as much as possible, as it is a real PITA.

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2023, 05:28:18 pm
content: If your diagnostic is right then as it is now it is broken, the risk you take is that it works again.Glue a piece of sanding paper on a fine stick. 800 grid or higher. Be gentle, those things are fragile...Compressed air to remove debris.Talk to a local service engineer. He might have a tip.How will you know this thing will not fail on you during flight?

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2023, 08:14:18 pm
content: Sandpaper will rapidly remove the gold (or other thin protective layer) you need to polish, less is more here, strip the plating and you'll have to clean it constantly to keep it working. I should mention that in bad/weak light I've noticed edge connectors tend to always look dirty. I like to use plain, dry, white index cards for this, they'll take a lot of crap off a good looking board edge and polish the plating nicely without removing any. Connector side I wouldn't mess too much with if you can't get at it easily, too easy to get something stuck in there and bend a finger, but the same plain index card doubled up does get results if you're careful.
EDGE CTS tuner chip display repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: MetallChips85
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 11, 2024, 02:58:21 am
content: I have an Edge CTS tuner which is a bit dated. The touch display has stopped working. Here is a link to a datasheet i think is the unit i have:https://www.usmicroproducts.com/sites/default/files/datasheets/USMP-TT043WT-01C_0.pdfThe part number on the display is: USMP-tt043wt01etpI called US microproducts and they do not offer any support and suggest contacting the device manufacturer. The Edge does not support this device and will sell a new one device but it is near $1000.I would appreciate help locating a suitable replacement 40 pin TFT LCD display.

author: trollisc
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 25, 2025, 04:29:57 pm
content: MetallChips85 did you have any luck finding a replacement or equivalent screen?
Educator II Power Supply schematic? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Axtman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2024, 10:37:32 pm
content: Does anyone have a Hep Kit by Motorolla Educator II Power Supply schematic? This unit is plus/minus 5 volts for, I believe, a breadboard digital learning unit.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2024, 08:03:00 pm
content: So it's a demonstration microcomputer from 1976 ? Whatever was in the PSU, there's probably not much to it. It might just be a center tapped transformer, rectifiers, filter caps, and 7805/7905 regulators. Or it could use a few discrete BJT's to make regulator circuits.Do you own one and have a problem? Did you open it up ? Just from a top/bottom PCB picture, or with a DMM, it would be pretty easy to map a PSU like above.
EEPROM code unknown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: salviador
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2021, 01:09:08 pm
content: what kind of memory is this?What size ??

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2021, 01:23:19 pm
content: AT24C01D.(page 18)
Eeprom data for Panasonic TX-47AS800E TV - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Ulrik Smed
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 17, 2022, 06:19:32 am
content: Hi, does anyone know a good place for getting eeprom dump files? I'm searching for eeprom data for a Panasonic TX-47AS800E TV. It's stuck on the Panasonic startup logo. I've heard reprogramming the I2C eeprom might fix it.
EEprom dump WANTED from a TCA-1MEG console adapter.   ( 24C16WP) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: charlyd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2021, 04:21:23 pm
content: Hi can anybody help me out on a EEprom dump file from the 24C16WP in his TCA-1MEG adapter.i have this adapter which gives me a fail.. it looks like the 24C16WP can go corrupt so who can help me out with the backupped programmer file.here it the topic i can refer to about my adapter.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-tca-1meg/msg3564832/#msg3564832or maybe someone can help my with theservice software( it says downloadable from the tek website when i search on the number 063-3376-xxx i do not get something like service software )

author: dxl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2022, 06:01:09 am
content: Here's the test data from the tek scope software, maybe it helps.
eeTools Chipmax 2 universal programmer missing EEPROM  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: baltersice
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2023, 01:41:24 pm
content: After having run into the limitations of my classic Minipro a few times (most recently regarding PAL and GAL devices) I started looking for an upgrade.Fortunately a friend just so happened to have rescued a Chipmax 2 board from a dumpsterIt looks mostly healthy, except for a missing DIP8 EEPROM (U17) which might hold the initial FPGA configuration? The device doesn't even USB enumerate without this part.Does anybody happen to have a part number and data content of this part by any chance? It would save me lots of time and money so I am offering a small PayPal bounty to the first one to share a working image and PN!Would also be super grateful for every other scrap of info, manuals, thoughts on their proprietary? DRMed? chip adapters etc.Thank you and happyholidaysequipment repair time!
EEV Blog Brymen BM235 true rms multimeter repair question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jimthegreek
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2022, 11:52:40 pm
content: I have a eevblog brymen meter that I purchased appx. 2-3 years ago. When i turn the meter on from the off position to the first position which is for voltage, the meter works. If I move the selector switch past that position to any other position, the display is blank. I replaced the batteries twice but I dont know why it doesnt work. Can someone tell me what to do? I hardly used the meter and it stopped working. Thanks.

author: J-R
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2022, 08:59:19 pm
content: At this point might as well take it apart and inspect the rotary switch?

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2022, 02:26:52 am
content: Also look for any signs of battery ooze on the PCB.Hiw did you first notice the problem? Long storage, batteries dead, replaced, DMM defective?

author: caulktel
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2022, 08:12:41 pm
content: Mine has done that from day one, I found that rotating the selector switch real fast back in forth cleans the contacts and then it starts working again. I suppose I could take it apart and burnish the selector contacts but I'm lazy.
EEV DMM Brymen 235 'InEr' after water damage for all except A/mA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: User895236
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 06, 2023, 12:38:51 am
content: I have a EEV DMM Brymen 235 which recently got wet with rainwater, plus possible micro bits of camping related debris.Within about 3 hours of it happening I happened to need to use it, and that's why I discovered the problem:With no leads plugged in, the meter gives a loud beep and "InEr" error for all settings except the A/mA, where it seems to work fine.I have taken apart, used metho to rinse it and then dried it. Inside it looks like brand new. No signs of corrosion or any broken bits. Rotary dial looks fine and fresh.Tried new batteries.I have read this post which describes similar issue but got randomly solved with similar treatmenthttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/brymen-235-water-damage-(beer)/msg1347947/#msg1347947.Do people have any other ideas that may help?

author: User895236
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 08, 2023, 10:07:09 am
content: OK, good news. Two days later, in despair, I tried it one last time and it now works! A bit random, but I'm happy.
EEVblog #385 - Amstrad NC100 Notepad Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 16, 2012, 01:53:07 am
content: Dave.

author: pelrun
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 16, 2012, 05:44:10 am
content: As soon as I saw this was an NC100 repair video, I knew it would be the fuse. It's a ridiculously common fault with this device, because the DC input jack is centre-negative (aaargh)!

author: jimmyd
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 29, 2021, 02:34:15 pm
content: I have an NC100, but would love to replace the display with something that is back lit. Does anyone know of any displays that could be a drop-in replacement?
EEVBlog BM235 Meter strange resistance fault - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Kijo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 13, 2020, 11:58:03 am
content: My BM235 Meter is having an issue in resistance/continuity mode. It never did this in the past and just noticed it when I picked it up a day ago.If I switch from volts or the off position to resistance the meter gets stuck on what it thinks is a short, and keeps beeping constantly even when the leads are not touching. The display shows all 0 's and flashes. When I switch to resistance mode (without beep) it still says all 0's and attempting to measure anything fails. This also occurs when there is no probes attached. - as in it thinks there is a short when no probes are present!However if I switch from the diode/capacitance side, it seems to work fine. I get the 0L display and I can measure resistance. This is until I touch both leads, and then its back in the same state again. Not sure why this happens but its proving annoying.* Firmware is "d"* Batteries are good - tested on my $10 Chinese meter* Checked leads, they are fine* Checked fuses, they are also fine* Pulled apart meter and checked for any solider balls or dodgy components - none found (at least from what I can see)* I keep the meter stored at my workbench, and can confirm it was not abused recentlyAny help will be much appreciated!

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2020, 03:02:39 pm
content: Probably an issue with the function switch contacts. There have been a few reports; not the same problem exactly.I would service that switch assembly or return to the manufacturer for service - they have a three year warranty if memory serves.

author: Kijo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 29, 2020, 05:44:27 am
content: Thanks mzacharias,I have been away (and stuck there) for a bit and hadn't got the chance to check this out. I was able to open up the meter and clean the switch contacts. everything looks good! Pics attached. Unfortunately the issue still happens! Here is a video of the issue:https://youtu.be/NFgXKiKVJssAlso, the meter was gifted, so I don't have ny details on purchase date/etc - Do we go direct through Bryman?Thanks,Edward

author: Kijo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 29, 2020, 05:46:26 am
content: more photos of the board

author: Kijo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 29, 2020, 05:48:06 am
content: top

author: Kijo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 29, 2020, 05:48:56 am
content: bottom

author: goaty
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2020, 08:15:45 am
content: I had a similar problem with a Voltcraft VC890 with EFM32 controller.Problem was that a digital-I/O was dead on controller and it couldn´t detect the change when turing the range knob.Maby an idea.
EFM32 Flash protection AAP - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: TonyBe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2020, 07:22:32 am
content: Hi Folks,I ran into a problem. My VC890 Multimeter had simply stopped working yesterday on the resistance and current mode. After checking the voltages on the PCB i quickly found the problem. One pin of the EFM32G230 MCU was shorted to VCC and at the same time measures 40R to Gnd(even when the MCU is off). Since this pin is externaly pulled down by the rotation switch in I and R mode, the Vcc is effectivly shorted to Gnd then. This results in a current draw of 150mA in all ranges and >500mA in resistance and current mode.I've already ordered a new EFM32 chip for repair.Since there is a SWD Debug Port on the pcb, i've tried to dump the flash with silabs commander. But well, you guessed it: the flash is locked via AAP.Is there really no way to get an flash image when this protection is set? It would be a shame (and really bad for my wallet) if i must throw this 300€ Multimeter away with that kind of failure.What happens when I manually connect with the chip (without the commander from silabs). Does the AAP protection covers the flash acces in hardware? Or is this like a flag which stops the debugger from reading flash. I couldn't find any information on how AAP exactly works.Thank you all in advancekind regardsTony

author: TonyBe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2020, 01:54:56 pm
content: ..just a little extension to my initial post:of course, if it would be possible to get the firmware binaries for the VC890 - my problem would be solved as well. The Meter is from Uni-T.. does somebody maybe has some connections there and can help me out?RegardsTony

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2020, 12:47:35 am
content: Looks like you're not the first one...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/voltcraft-vc-890-by-uni-t-firmware/You could spend 10x as much on an "MCU break" service to dump the firmware, but that's not really economical either. (If the DMM cost 10x or more, then that might even be a good way to do it.)You could try some of the attacks like power glitching etc. if you have the time...

author: TonyBe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2020, 11:12:28 am
content: Hi together,well yes. I've contacted goaty in the meantime and we chated a little bit. I'm currently trying to get in contact with Voltcraft support since my distri does not provide any information on how to contact them directly.Maybe some of you allready had contact with Voltcraft?I apologize for the bad structure this post here has. Very sorry for that,..Kind regards

author: cmato
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 30, 2025, 11:15:08 pm
content: I have same issue with VC890, Resistance, diode, conductivity and current (Ampere range) are not working. Multimeter is not switched into this modes. It happened after replacement of drained 9V battery. It was first and probably last Voltcraft (Unit-T) device which I bought.Do somebody have firmware for EFM32... ?
EGO Mowers and Ryobi Weed Whacker Rechargeable Batteries - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: spongella
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2020, 11:47:52 am
content: This past week my EGO mower would only run for a few minutes on a recharged battery, very unusual. Same thing happened with my Ryobi weed whacker battery. First I thought it might be the batteries' life span or perhaps a defect. However I found that the battery contacts had developed oxidation. All were cleaned with a fine metal brush, followed by contact cleaner. All batteries are now charging fully and working. This may help others who have developed the same problem..Over the years I've depended more and more on electrical outdoor equipment and really never paid attention to maintenance such as I did with gas powered equipment but now I realize the contacts on the battery, charger, and the equipment itself need periodic cleaning.
Eico 430 Oscilloscope Dual Concentric Knobs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: W3KW
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2024, 05:49:48 pm
content: I have a working Eico 430 and the k lbs were replaced at some point. The issue is they were not sized correctly so one doesn’t work and is now missing. Does anyone know of a suitable replacement? I’ve been looking everywhere and even considered buying a used one to steal the knobs. (Not ideal)I don’t want guitar knobs, and they won’t work anyway. The bottom knob has to be thin, as there is only about 3/8” of brass for the set screw to grab. I don’t need original, just knobs that mount and operate properly, and a cool look would be a plus.Thanks,Wes

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2024, 06:38:58 pm
content: Probably a 1/4" large shaft with a 1/8" internal small shaft. These knobs are very common. Look on Ebay, you'll probably find several that fit your needs. Knobs of all sorts are common at ham radio hamfests. I have a cigar box filled to the top with surplus knobs. Look on Ebay by your scope model number and you may find just the knobs. try searching 'oscilloscope knobs' and I'll bet you find something!!
EIKI EIP-U4700 Ballast hack/LED replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: netham45
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 14, 2021, 01:50:10 am
content: I've been working on replacing the ballast/bulb in my EIKI EIP-U4700 with an LED panel. I purchased a logic analyser to reverse the ballast<>mainboard protocol and was able to trick the system into thinking the ballast is running(https://gist.github.com/netham45/52d06f7095c579679fcce3ec5b27e6a1) and I've put a 100W COB LED into the projector. Going to attach the manual for the ballast of this projector to this post in case anyone else wants to mess with it in the future, I was able to find it after capturing some of the protocol.It's working, I'm typing this post from it, but it's really dim and I can't figure out exactly how to brighten it. It's almost adequate for a movie in a completely dark room. With the stock bulb I could see it just fine in a brightly-lit room. With this LED COB I can barely tell it's on in a lit room.Right now I'm using this assembly:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D1LD68Cand it's not quite as focused as I'd like.Is there a better type of lens to use to focus this? Something like the above but a Fresnel lens or something that'll get it down to a small point to shine more efficiently through the projector's optics?Compared to the bulbs I was using I'm impressed with the colors the projector is doing (cheap bulbs look yellow-ish), and it's completely uniform on brightness and solved some dark spots I had.