hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Analogmax-daq1 and daq2 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: cncjerry
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2020, 01:50:55 pm
content: Anyone try out one of these yet? It is offered by ADI, contains the following including an 18bit, 2msps ADC and an intel FPGA. Price is around $170usd. There is example software for data acquisition written in python and I think there is a data analysis package. Looks pretty cool for the hobbyist.https://www.arrow.com/en/products/analogmax-daq1/trenz-electronic-gmbhFeatures:- Intel® MAX 10 Commercial - Package: UBGA-169- Speed Grade: C8 (Slowest)- Temperature: 0°C to 85°C- Package compatible device 10M02...10M16 as assembly variant on request possible- SDRAM Memory up to 64Mb, 166MHz- Dual High-Speed USB to Multipurpose UART/FIFO IC- 64 Mb Quad SPI Flash- 4Kb EEPROM Memory- 8x User LED- Micro USB2 Receptacle 90- 18 Bit 2MSPS Analog to Digital Converter- 2x SMA Female Connector- I/O interface: 23x GPIO- Power Supply:- 5V- Dimension: 86.5mm x 25mm- Others:- Instrumentation Amplifier- Differential Amplifier- Operational AmplifierI'm probably going to grab one and see if I can use it for time-nut stuff. Having those 2 sma connectors, though I think they are differentially, implemented looks interesting. Maybe I can use it as a TIC.Jerry
Analogue auto-ranging ohm meter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2014, 01:19:38 pm
content: I posted some time ago about my college project (here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/would-you-buy-this/). It's simple as anything with an opamp current source. (Schematic the first attachment. (Also bear in mind that a lot of what I'm saying might seem a little retarded as I'm almost entirely self-taught))I've actually been using it on the bench and it's handy, but since it's still the holidays I decided I may as well further the design a little. Here's what I wanted to address:- The ranges are fine, although I was lazy and the 100R range puts 10mA through whatever you're measuring, and the 10R range uses 100mA. This seemed a wee bit too high to me.- Autoranging. Naturally, I got a bit fed up with twiddling the switch at the same time as trying to hold the probes on something. I figured I could just do it all using digital, but where's the fun in that? Besides, I much prefer messing about with a pencil and paper as opposed to sitting on my PC.Here's what I came up with (second attachment and pictures). As I said earlier, a lot of it might seem a bit dumb but I'm new to this. It's also my first analogue design of any real complexity, and also my first time using more than one logic IC.It's relatively simple. To begin with, I addressed the 10mA and 100mA range issues by using the 1K range (1mA) and amplifying it by 10x or 100x using LT1101 instrumentation amps (way overkill but I had them in the drawer, so it was more convenient than fiddling about with precision resistors). There's also probably more analogue switches than any sane person would use, but I couldn't think of any other way of doing it.The ranging is done by two comparators and a D flip-flop counter. Of course, with this method, when the next counter goes high, the previous one is also high. I used XOR gates so that I only get one output at a time.The measurement is done with a moving coil meter, so I used a voltage follower to drive it. The input to the voltage follower is what the comparators use. When the voltage goes above 1V (the meter is set to 1V FSD) the whole thing resets to the 1M range, and when the voltage goes below 100mV, the circuit counts down until the voltage is back within the two thresholds. If that makes any sense...The clock comes from a 555 and is at about 100Hz. This means that the meter cycles through all the ranges within 60 milliseconds. It's quicker than my VC-99 so I'm happy.So yeah it works great. I built it as a birds nest. IE you have a power rail, ground rail and ground for the opamps. Just solder the components on wherever you want and connect it all up with enameled wire.The LED furthest away from the main circuit is the 1M one, and the one furthest inboard is the 10R one. I've attached a few images of the circuit running, too. The wires running off are the makeshift probes. When I find a box to put it in I'll connect up proper probes etc...Any and all feedback is appreciated.1.8R:330R560KThe rest:Thanks for looking!
Analogue project ideas - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: miketan3904
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2021, 03:33:38 pm
content: Hi guys! This thread is created to collect ideas on interesting/real life analogue project. Feel free to share your idea if you have any.

author: penfold
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2021, 03:59:13 pm
content: How about combining this and the machine learning post to look at AI approaches to analogue circuit synthesis and optimisations?

author: miketan3904
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2021, 12:31:45 pm
content: Could you please elaborate more on that?
Analogue pulse detection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2014, 09:46:09 pm
content: Are there any good analoge methods other than ( digital signal processing e.g (time reversal and adaptive filterin etc etc)to capture an anlogue waveform with out loosing its original shape or waveform?has to be analogue processing all the way e.ganlogue phase and amplitude corretion methods.example i recieve a analogue square wave distorted in phase and amplitude and these defects need correcting to restore the pulse shape square wave etc.. to there original shape.is it possible to do this in the analogue domain with out using digital signal processing?

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2014, 10:13:55 pm
content: You mean like this? (You probably also want to read the appnote linked at the bottom of the article.)http://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1272495

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 02:27:14 am
content: QuoteWhat does that mean?QuoteWhat does that mean?Think like a circuit: if you are presented with a waveform with just the knowledge that there are phase / amplitude defects but nothing else, how would you go about eliminating such defects?If you can think of a way to do it, you can certainly devise a circuit to do it for you.
analogue signal analyzer by dalmo lima (PC Based very nice) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: yassine
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 07, 2017, 04:25:44 pm
content: hey all this is my first post i hope its on the correct sectionanyway i was search for some stuff on internet and i found a project by a Brazilian electronic repair tech it is a very nice projecthe posted a list of video on youtube plus the source code of his software and an exe a pdf with a simple schematic but (there is always a BUT)i think he used an old busy noisy op amp it is a very simple schematic using a quad op amp LM348 couple trimmers and thats a voltage followeru feed the gen signal from the output of ur computer and then the output of LM348 are feed back to the computer input !well it is nice but the LM348 ghhh noise noise aleeeeert !!!!if you dont have a good insulation a good sound card it will give you a harsh time to get a correct curvethe software is very nice you can save curve for later comparison u can put a picture of ur board so u can save ur curve plus every component pin curves and everything !anyway hope some of u guys can make a schematic better mod it a littlehere is link to videos and his website i take no credit for nothing !http://youtu.be/HLOqK0jjSMghttp://youtu.be/BYtfKwh124shttp://youtu.be/6i4i90PFDbEhttp://analogsignature2.wixsite.com/analog/thank you guysgo easy on me

author: yassine
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 09, 2017, 12:47:54 am
content: No body wanna help changing the schematic come on guys help !
Analyze Antenna Design - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ruffy91
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 29, 2016, 11:25:04 am
content: Hi Folks,I have got this antenna:http://www.rfstreet.com/ch_contentd.asp?id=3237for two LigoPTP Point-to-Point Wifi-Bridges which I got very cheap.I have not tested them yet because you know: "Don't turn it on, take it apart!"The antenna consists of 2 antennae, one horizontal and one vertical polarised.I cannot find any reference to patch antennae with this pattern. Especially as the antenna does not use the aluminium plate as a ground plane but an (almost) inverted pattern on the bottom side of the PCB.The wire you can see in the middle of the "E" is a leg of a 1.2kOhm resistor which forms a wire loop.Does this design seem reasonable?The internal construction looks like this:
Analyzing aluminum electrolytic capacitor ESR curves -future failure indications - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: matthuszagh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2023, 05:14:03 pm
content: I'm in the process of replacing a few bad aluminum electrolytic capacitors on a PCB. To assess health, I've been measuring the impedance and ESR curves. This got me wondering about how ESR-related failures might be visible on an ESR plot before actual failure. More specifically, do ESR curves change over time and, if so, how? Are there common characteristics in terms of this time-evolution (to provide a totally speculative example, maybe ESR at lower frequencies tends to rise)?To serve as a reference for the discussion I've attached plots of two aluminum electrolytic capacitors. Both of these look ok to me. The 4.3VDC one is pretty old, whereas the 16V is completely new. (Note the difference of scale).One thing that stands out to me is the old capacitor has more ESR variability over frequency than the new one. The ESR at the lowest frequency measured (5Hz) is quite a bit higher on the old capacitor than the new one. I have no idea whether these results are age-related and the capacitor models are not the same. Their only relations are that they have the same nominal capacitance and rough form factor, though the new capacitor is a bit taller.

author: Conrad Hoffman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2023, 05:44:05 pm
content: I have some very old Sprague cap notes here-http://www.conradhoffman.com/lib_item_list.htmThough electrolyte formulas have changed, I think the general trends are similar.Everybody is so hung up on ESR today, but it's often a red herring. It's very relevant to switching supplies and not much else. There's a reason people use dissipation factor beyond just a long history with it.My experience is old caps increase in value, and then eventually decrease, at which point things go bad quickly. Rarely is ESR the first indicator of failure. IMO, by the time you see an ESR problem, the cap should have been replaced long ago! Old caps also tend to take more than a couple seconds to form up to full value. DC leakage tends to be high and not fall as quickly or as low as it should under voltage.
Analyzing example I-to-V circuit for a DAC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Pulse Cloud
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2013, 05:37:22 pm
content: Hello, I need help analyzing the circuit above, taken from page 18 of the AD9740 current-output DACdatasheet.I know that for aVout = R2/R1 * (V1-V2) + Vref, but I'm having trouble figuring out the value of R1.At first glance I thought R1 = 225 Ohm because the 25 Ohm resistors are there just to convert the current outputs to voltages, but why would AD choose 225 Ohm instead of 250 Ohm? 250 would make the R2/R1 ratio nicer to work with. What's making my head hurt, though, are the 25 Ohm resistors, which added to the 225 ones result in the 250 Ohm I expected.So is R1 = 225 Ohm or R1 = 225 + 25 Ohm?Thanks.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2013, 05:46:09 pm
content: You have a current source, that is a Norton equivalent. Convert it tho Thevelin, and the 25 Ohm is in series.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norton's_theorem

author: Pulse Cloud
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2013, 07:06:48 pm
content: Quote from: NANDBlog on September 20, 2013, 05:46:09 pm*gasp* Of course!(This is kind of embarrassing.)

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2013, 07:30:30 pm
content: Since the 25ohm resistors are so much smaller than the serial resistance from the gain-setting resistors, you can simply view the output from the DAC to have been converted to voltage (by the two 25ohm resistors), and then they are summed via the differential amplifier.
Analyzing samples - quick measurement question... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 10:13:40 pm
content: In my other thread I'm working on some measurements for a quick logic analyzer software project for logic/logic16.Here is my question:If I look at 100K samples and count the positives I will know what the +duty cycle is and I can calculate the negative duty cycle by subtracting the positive from the total.Now let's look at +width. I plan on adding together all the positive widths I find and then dividing them by the number of pulses to get an average +width.Can I calculate the - width by using a ratio of the positive/negative duty to the +width?For example, say 30K positives, 100K total samples, 70K negatives, 10nS +width, so +width*-duty/+duty or 10*70/30 or 23.3nS for the -width.Is this right? Will it always hold true? Or will I have to measure the -width and average it as well?

author: hamster_nz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 11:17:36 pm
content: I always find it useful to try the worst possible case and see what the numbers look like.Howabout these 20 pulses:0011111100100100100100I'm sure we can agree that the duty cycle is 50%. and the average width of the '0' pulses is 2.0. So if I understand your question, you are asking it the average width of the '1' pulses is also 2.0? It looks like it is to me....You could most probably define of average pulse width of '1's as a function of a stream's duty cycle and number rising edges in a sample (e.g. 20 samples, 50% duty, 5 rising edges = 20*50%/5 = 2 samples).

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 11:19:18 pm
content: Quote from: hamster_nz on March 25, 2014, 11:17:36 pmThank you - I was actually just thinking this:I count the positive transitions, negative transitions, and positive samples.frequency is (positive transitions+negative transitions)/2+duty is positive samples/total samples-duty is (total samples-positive samples)/total samples+width is positive samples/positive transitions-width is (total samples-positive samples)/negative transitionsobviously these are average frequency and average widths...

author: hamster_nz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 09:36:01 am
content: Positive transitions must equal negative transitions +/- one, depending on what you assume the initial states and ending states to be.If you assume that they are truly unknown, then you might want to use a value of 0.5 for the initial and final state of the signal. This has the benefit of avoiding the "divide by zero" for +width if all samples are the same.Also you can just use (total edges / 2) rather than counting rising and falling edges separately. Just watch for divides by 0.Maybe you want to output N/A if < 2 transitions are seen...
AnaTek Blue ESR Meter - Cheap Switch Fail - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 10:48:09 am
content: Greeting EEVBees:--The first problem I had with my Blue ESR meter was that the right angle on/off button switch worked lose of the board because its pins were only retained by tiny solder pads on the back side of the board. I managed to cure this by (see picture below) soldering a piece of wire between the two support pins to keep the switch from rocking. Now the swich has gone wobbly and is intermittant. I plan to replace the right button switch (see picture) with an inline momentary (see picture) which looks more substantial and costs $0.99 instead of 20 for $1.99.--While waiting a few weeks for HK delivery, I may even be forced to jury rig a temporary fix just to be able to operate. I love the meter but can AnaTek really believe that its switch arrangement will last 1000 operations. Your experiences, opinions and suggestions are humbly soliceted. See below link for my earlier post about kit bashing the Blue, and examples by people who did it better.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/kit-bashing-the-bob-parker-blue/msg150772/#msg150772"That's the thing about people who think they hate computers. What they really hate is lousy programmers."Laurence "Larry" van Cott Niven1938 -Best RegardsClear Ether

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 10:55:10 am
content: As I'm currently trying to build something with interlocks that may shift during transport, I've been wondering how else one might assist in overcoming the solder joints fatiguing on the board level other than making the holes tighter and the pads wider?This is also a common failure mode in 1990's automotive stuff where the pads lift / tear or fatigue a ring and the components completly drop out,(they will be hot-snotted, but it still has some give)

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 11:08:18 am
content: Dear Rerouter:--Try this stuff. It cures hard as a rock. See picture."The actress delivered a striking performance that ran the gamut of emotions, from A to B"Dorothy Parker 1893 - 1967Best RegardsClear Ether
ANDONSTAR’s Built-In Screen and Wi-Fi Simultaneously (PC) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dreg
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 05, 2025, 12:57:13 pm
content: Use your ANDONSTAR built-in screen *and* Wi-Fi on the PC at the same time, UCAM DASHCAM APK is pure bullshit!The folks at Andonstar are going to hate me if they were planning to release a new model with support for thishttps://github.com/therealdreg/AndonstarOSWV

author: Kevin.D
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2025, 02:14:47 pm
content: I have the ad409 at home I haven't tried to get to get my wifi working at all yet since I was reading review posts by others that it didn't work well at all and kept disconnecting or wouldn't connect at all, I don't know how true this was.If you have also solved the issue of having the monoscopes own display and another remote display showing simultaneously then big thanks as this was a big issue foralot of people, I know the scope switches of its own display when it sends to hdmi port but wasn't sure about what would happen over wifi , will try things as soon as I get time .thanks for the post .

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2025, 02:03:08 am
content: This reminds me I should plug one of those mini wifi USB dongles into my Andostar, and see if that will work with my PC.I guess it won't if I needed to enter wi-fi info and pw/ like with my one of my oscilloscopes.
Android and USB microcontroller as peripheral - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sled
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 11:08:17 am
content: Hello there,I'm planning to embed an Android phone in a box and control some LEDs with it, so my idea is to simply use an Arduino hooked up to the phone via USB and control the LEDs through a serial console or similar. In a standalone configuration, the phone would supply power to the Arduino and LEDs.However it's unpractical to remove the phone from the box just to charge or debug it, so I thought about adding another USB socket on the outside of the box to charge and debug the Android phone.I'm not sure whether this is even possible at all (USB host / peripheral conflict) and how to "switch" the power source from the phone to the external port. I'd be glad if somebody could point me to some resources or give me a few pointers how to go about this.The Android phone features an USB-C socket which might be a problem too.I've attached a schematic to illustrate the three modes of operation.Thanks in advance for any help

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 02:18:57 pm
content: there is a board who act as an android i/o boardhttps://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10585https://www.elektor.com/android-i-o-board-150057-91

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 03:21:16 pm
content: There are 'Y' cables which allow power/charge in one end and USB OTG in the other coming from a phone/tablet.Bigger question here is what is the phone doing that the arduino can't? Why not eliminate the phone and make the arduino do what you want.

author: jmpowell
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 04:07:21 pm
content: Also :https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13613
Android app for eevblog forum  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Kedar264
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2015, 06:01:58 am
content: Hey guy's eevblog is awesome community for electronic geeks,to make the form more easier to use i think an andrid app will help a lot, i am developing eevblog please let me know your suggestions and ideas and anything you want to say.

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2015, 12:55:22 pm
content: Uh, I suggest you Dave if its a good idea or not? And maybe get an XML feed so you don't end up screen scraping a BBS.
Android BT Stack - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Don_CC12
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 22, 2016, 08:34:14 pm
content: Hi all,I'm looking for a simple Android Bluetooth app for debugging Modbus when paired with the HC-06 module. All the apps I've investigated so far only allow you to send a single byte of data when "send" or "transmit" is pressed, which obviously doesn't work with RTU Modbus due to the timeouts involved.I would like to be able to send up to, say, a dozen hex bytes in succession with a single press of a virtual key, then have it display the data received on the screen in the form of hex bytes, nothing fancy required. An option to have the Modbus CRC automatically appended would be awesome, as would the ability to store a few often used strings for debugging, but neither of these would be mandatory. And no, it doesn't have to be free.Any ideas?Thanks in advance...
Android phone/tablet or micro wireless kbd/mouse/macro player. Control any OS/HW - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Engineers Buddy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 26, 2017, 02:29:56 pm
content: This Teensy based project utilizes a blue-tooth module for wireless connection to any device. For engineers who are required to attend with their own usb keyboard it is an excellent little tool. There is an app available on playstore which provides keyboard, US/UK layout, and track-pad functions but you could develop your own and simply send the commands used in the sketch.! This device would also make an excellent macro player which would work with any OS or HID compliant device. Your app or any micro system can send keyboard commands without having to install anything on the client system. For instance, visitors to a venue or establishment could use an app to control systems there with dedicated buttons that performed specific tasks, thus limiting that users functionality to the app they have been provided with and providing a simple OS independent programming capability. :-)Full build instructions and the sketch are freely available here-https://www.instructables.com/id/Engineers-Buddy-Bluetooth-Kbd-and-Mouse/All feedback will be very welcome
Android Tasker (If Not location) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: zdelarosa00
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2015, 04:47:01 am
content: Hi there, not sure if im in the right branch for my question if im not just let me know....I have a question, Android, Tasker app, if anyone uses it, im trying to make a profile in wich.. If Im NOT in a location, it turns the WiFi off and the data on, my problem is how I do the "NOT here" part...Thanks anyway greetings from México
Android TV boxes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: snakewrangler
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 26, 2016, 01:21:35 pm
content: Hi,Nowadays there are tons of android TV boxes out there. I was looking to see what are the things which people think would be interesting features which are still not added. It would be pretty cool if guys could share their ideas on what they think would be interesting addons . It could be an electronic item like a camera to have Skype calls and conferences, or it could it speaker design and placement in a given room . Either way , what are the features you would like to see on a Media Player which could be added(software or hardware , both are fine)

author: RGB255_0_0
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2016, 01:33:43 pm
content: Skype on TV didn't work first time around. Most people make do with hacked FireTV sticks and Chromecasts; most anything else has SmartTV apps. And if that's still not enough, HTPC/console.Be interesting what people come up with, but I see it as looking for a problem that doesn't exist.

author: stmdude
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2016, 02:33:01 pm
content: My Shield TV is pretty much perfect.It could come with Kodi pre-installed, that would save me a minute or so when I first set it up.The firmware updates could be incremental instead of the massive 700MB+ packages it gets.But, apart from that, this is pretty much the gold standard for Android TVs.

author: TRS-90
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2016, 03:57:59 pm
content: This one is a bit out there but maybe some sort of tethering, kind of like firewire or a way to make 2 of the system operate as one when connected.Don't know how much practical use it would have but it is just a thought.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2016, 04:46:09 pm
content: Quote from: stmdude on April 26, 2016, 02:33:01 pmI love my Shield TV, other than it doesn't support Amazon Prime directly, I did get to play the previews but not the full feature shows. Other than that, get the bigger one with 500 GB storage. mine is the 16 GB one and now I wished I got the bigger one.I did put a 64GB micro sd and its better but the 500 GB is an actual drive so it will be faster.Other complaint is that the controller right trigger doesn't zero out after some use, I gotta find time to RMA mine. That will only affect gaming on the device.Note as well that not all android apps will be compatible due to the lack of touch screen, so you gotta side load them.Not a horrible purchase, but it could be better if they did enable the controller's touch pad.
Android APP for communication version of DPS5005 and DPS3005 , DPS8005  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: RD Tech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2018, 07:25:42 am
content: As many many fan need DPS power supply android APP, they tell me many many time , but did not have time , now we just publishedNow it is only support communication version of DPS3005 , DPS5005 and DPS8005. If you have bluetooth board, you can connect it with android phone (only support android 5.0 and above).This is the down load link (or you can check their file link )http://www.mediafire.com/folder/i5iu0dw7rrwpx/DPS_power_supply_APP.This is the video for APP :[url=https://youtu.be/-hBzL224dZk]https://youtu.be/-hBzL224dZk] https://youtu.be/-hBzL224dZk]https://youtu.be/-hBzL224dZk]https://youtu.be/-hBzL224dZk] https://youtu.be/-hBzL224dZkIf you have USB version and not have BT board, you can make order here to buy a bluetooth boardhttps://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/RD-bluetooth-board-for-DPS-and-DPH-power-supply-communication-version/923042_32882334859.html(if you have no communication version, don’t buy it)B, For other power supply communication version (DPS5015. DPS5020,DPH5005), APP is designing ,in the future Maybe you just update this app on line to get new APP. Now please wait our good newsThis is all DPS power supply link, you can checkhttps://rdtech.aliexpress.com/store/group/DPS-digital-control-power-supply/923042_508466030.html?spm=2114.12010108.nav-list.6.5794671dZ5MRbP

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 02, 2018, 12:16:52 pm
content: Watching DPS products mature is painful... maybe tac-solder 2 wires from protoboard with astable 555 and 9v battery?

author: RD Tech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2018, 09:07:08 am
content: Don't understand

author: Kalvin
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2018, 09:19:41 am
content: Quote from: RD Tech on July 03, 2018, 09:07:08 amPressing a button for 300 times is not a solution.

author: RD Tech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2018, 09:34:38 am
content: this way can fix this problem ,. we already know the way to refresh our program , but some customer meet this problem, they can't refresh the program, they only use this way

author: richi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 11, 2019, 09:10:54 am
content: Hi, is it possible to make this App communicate over IP ?I dont use USB or Bluetooth, i use ESP8266 with ESPEasy wired with Serial to the DPS5005. So i have the Serial Interface over IP in my Network.At PC i use USR-VCOM so i become it in PC as a COM interface and it works great with the PC Software.

author: interflexo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2021, 07:20:57 pm
content: I have an Windows application that uses 14 of these RD DPS3005 independently controlled by the same PC USB port using a powered 16 port Orico USB HUB and it works like a charm.
Angled SATA 22p (15+7) PCB connector with standoff. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ee2000
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 06, 2016, 02:51:33 pm
content: HiI am starting getting a little bit frustrated about finding a SATA connector,i am look for something like show in the image below:- Angled SATA 22p (15+7) PCB connector, and with a standoff off about 5-10mm.I hope some of you have come across such a connector, it is for a DSP projectI am working on in my spare time, so i will only be needing a few connectors(5 -10 pieces),so i anybody knows where to buy these in small quantities ?.Any help is really appreciated, thanks a lot in advance.regardsRené

author: TwinScroll
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2016, 05:52:12 am
content: Have a good look over one of the major suppliers of SATA and SAS connectors such as FCI or Molex.This task will be a lot easier once you have a part number ( or alternative part numbers).The FCI selection / guide is here ::http://www.fci.com/en/products/board-to-board-wire-to-board/storage-connectors/sata.html
Angles between Sun, Saturn, Cassini probe, Daphnis moon at given time - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2020, 05:16:32 am
content: Folks, this feels like a bit of a longshot, but I've underestimated the breadth of knowledege represented on this forum before -- so here's hoping!I would like to know what the angles were between these objects at time 2017-01-16T13:06:18.716Z UTC (SCET on Cassini).The SunSaturn (planet)Daphnis (small moon of Saturn)Cassini (NASA space probe)Specifically,Cassini-Daphnis-Sun angleCassini-Daphnis-Saturn angleSun-Daphnis-Saturn angleSun-Saturn-SaturnNorthPole angle (so, in other words, the angle between Sun-Saturn line and Saturn's axis of rotation)Cassini-Saturn-SaturnNorthPole angle (as above, but with the Cassini-Saturn line).Or, any data which I could combine with simple geometry to get these same numbers.(Unless otherwise noted, Saturn means the centre of Saturn.)I've been playing around with 'NASA's Eyes' (deeplink to the given time maybe?) and 'Space Engine', but unfortunately the former doesn't know about Daphnis (!) and the latter doesn't know about Cassini; and neither seem to offer a way to export any sort of coordinate data (which I guess stands to reason since they don't seem to be intended for scientific work.)Any hints or advice (or even fully worked solutions :-D) would be most appreciated.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2020, 06:22:39 am
content: Stellarium is likely to have all the natural bodies, it is pretty detailed. I don't know about artificial satellites. I know it has some, but I'm not sure how accurate the coordinates are.

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2020, 11:49:12 am
content: Thanks for the suggestion, but unfortunately Stellarium features neither Daphnis nor Cassini.

author: LaserSteve
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2020, 04:33:39 pm
content: Have you considered just emailing the NASA Program's Principle Investigator?Steve
ANITA MK IX Restoration - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: SL901B
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 12:24:28 am
content: I'm new here and felt like showing off my first project a bit so here it is. This project is to get an old ANITA MK IX working. The IX was released by the Bell Punch Co. in 1964 as a follow-up to the VIII which was the fist all-electric desktop calculator. Found it in an antique shop a few years ago and knew it was at least somewhat special, paid £25 for it and sat on it until now. Anyway, here is the schematic, drawn up partly due to my not being able to find a copy online (so this may be the only one) and to learn to use KiCad. It's not neat but this is my first reverse-engineering anything at all. One or two components haven't been identified (i'm pretty sure they're caps but not 1000% on it), some of the cans on diodes have corroded so there is no text visible.At the moment I'm hoping to only have to replace a few caps but that is very optimistic and naive of me. Will post any updates.Images are attached (hopefully!). If anyone would like a copy of the file, please let me know.Cheers-SL

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 07:18:13 am
content: Ooooh! FunAny dekatrons inside?I've just restored an ANITA 1000 LSI - a much easier job.There's little restoration possible on my other 500inch long calculators, fortunately.There's too much restoration required on my mechanical calculators, unfortunately.Memo to self: do not get a Mk8 until mechanical calculators are eiher working or sold. I trust you have seen the world's oldest working computer, based on dekatrons, at theexcellentTNMoC next to the tedious Bletchley Park museum.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 08:57:39 am
content: I never dared to fire up my Anitas (yes, several models, all sold now).Essentially, almost all parts can and do go wrong in these machines, so it's almost the best choice to check every single component. The wicked semiconductors are known for their high failure rate, so prepare to "re-create" a couple.

author: SL901B
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 09:30:24 am
content: It does have a Dekatron yes! I haven't been to Bletchly Park but I will when I get a car!Once this is done I may see about getting some more old calculators, maybe even a mk8 :p

author: SL901B
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 10:41:53 pm
content: That's fair! I'll have to cross that bridge when I get there, I get that most components weren't built to last ~60 years haha
Anodic coating on aluminum between ground mating surfaces. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: xwarp
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2015, 08:03:36 am
content: What problems will I run into over time by doing this.Think in terms of UHF and up signals and RF grounding in waveguides.

author: babysitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2015, 08:41:48 am
content: Its a great insulation material, you will get a nice thin dielectric slot.Your part manufacturer can prevent intended coating, however, by leaving a sacrifice tab and removing it after anodizing (bad to tools as it is very, very hard) or coat it with a removable masking laquer. Removing a anodized sacrifice will be expensive. Be aware that aluminium is self-coating a bit on air so process it fast.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2015, 03:29:35 pm
content: Consider having it nickel plated instead ($$?) or using a different metal like brass or plated steel.You can make an insulated RF contact if the overlap length is 1/4 wavelength, but this only works for a narrow range of frequencies. A microwave oven door is a good example.Tim
Another (quick) dummy load - home etched, single sided - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2012, 04:50:59 pm
content: Tired of bread-boarding a Dave's dummy load, I threw this together. Single sided, home etched.I used ExpressPCB software, just cause it's so much quicker to quickly whip up a board for home etching(eagle can be a pain at times). Then I usually print it off as a PDF, and tweak the pads in illustrator for home etching (bigger pads, and such)http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2295566/BLOG/dummy%20load%20v1/dummy%20load.pdfThe only change I really made was running the opamp at 8 volts (7808) for a bit more range. It seems happy at 1 amp. Two amps and things start to really heat up.I'm planning on making a second version down the road. Something arduino controlled with DACs, ADC, multiple mosfets, maybe a fan and a LCD. But this will do for now. All I really need is 500ma - 1000ma.

author: eevblogfan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2012, 05:22:38 pm
content: 1+++I like the design

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2012, 05:28:59 pm
content: It looks pretty neat. If you ever go for an EE job interview bring these pictures!One suggestion though: if you mount the 4mm bushes on the other side you can stick them through the front of a case.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2012, 05:50:53 pm
content: Looks really nice

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2012, 06:53:44 pm
content: Awesome, very nice indeed.Which op-amp did you use?I really need to make a board for mine, it works on veroboard for now, but a decent board would make me feel better about it.

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2012, 04:50:16 am
content: Quote from: nctnico on May 07, 2012, 05:28:59 pmThe "case" is just going to be a piece of wood for it to mount on with some ears to met up with the holes. That heat sink makes for a really top heavy part. I think I might use some MDF actaully. to balance it. Next version will get some better "case" treatment.Quote from: Kibi on May 07, 2012, 06:53:44 pmJust a LM324 - same as Dave used. I did up the supply voltage to 8 volts since it's not rail to rail. Works a treat.

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 02:29:19 am
content: Made it on HAD - thanks to Dave. Thanks Dave!http://hackaday.com/2012/05/15/constant-current-dummy-load/

author: Scarionn
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2012, 11:22:55 pm
content: Hi, nice design, I'm thinking to made one dummy load too, but what is the advantage of use a MOSFET instead of a NPN transistor?

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2012, 07:01:53 am
content: Quote from: Scarionn on May 17, 2012, 11:22:55 pmA mosfet is easier to use when it comes to using it as a ... resistor and high speeds of course not a problem
Another 4 1/2 bench Dmm project (say why?) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: 001
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2018, 06:05:45 am
content: Hi!I see two things at forum:es1 - There a lot of vintage 4.5 digit manual range meters (hamegs flukes hp etc) at yours benches. Some units based on glorious old ICL71352 - There a fewUNFINISHEDDIY projects based on ICL7135 alsoWhat the reason? It looks like funny homebrew project. ICL7135 more linear when atmega DAC isn`t it?Any opinions?

author: ogden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2018, 07:05:04 am
content: Quote from: 001 on September 04, 2018, 06:05:45 amExperienced electronic hobbyists do not waste time and resources building stuff they can buy. Also you need tools you can rely-on. You shall not be thinking which does not operate correctly - thing you are now building or your DIY "measurement equipment".Some beginners think that they can get cheaper DMM by building it, then they realize that either it is way too limited beyond usability, does not work at all or is way more expensive than one you can buy. That's how many "homebrew test equipment" projects are dropped.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 04, 2018, 07:50:16 am
content: Please see here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/3-5-vs-4-5-digit-bench-dmm-(not-volt-nuts-thread)/
Another AC voltage standard - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 03:22:31 pm
content: HiThere are numerous projects around now building DC voltage references based on the AD584 (or other precision voltage reference)Dave himself has done a couple of videos on precision current sources.There are very few projects to build an AC voltage reference.I found this one but no one came up with a design :https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/diy-ac-voltage-reference/It is also interesting to read how Fluke have done it :https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-5200a-ac-voltage-calibrator-teardown-and-repair/I have also been engaging with the volt nuts :https://www.eevblog.com/forum/metrology/true-rms-converters/(I did hijack the thread - sorry)So, here is my attempt at an AC voltage standard :It is based on a low drift 32.768KHz crystalhttp://cpc.farnell.com/iqd-frequency-products/lf-xtal025159/crystal-quartz-smd-32-768khz/dp/SC10066?aa=true&vw=&selectedCategoryId=&categoryId=700000011705&eq=N%3D213497%2B411%26amp%3BNs%3DP_STORE_MARKETING_RANK_FARNELL_CPC%257c0%257c%257cP_MAN_PART_NUM%257c0%26amp%3BNtpc%3D1%26amp%3BNtpr%3D1&searchView=table&iscrfnonsku=falseBasically, the design amplifies the crystal oscillation to 12p-p and then uses voltage divider to get the 4 output levels.The divider will use this series of high precision, low drift resistorshttp://cpc.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?catalogId=15002&langId=69&storeId=10180&categoryId=700000011452&eq=N%3D219764%2B411%26amp%3BNs%3DP_STORE_MARKETING_RANK_FARNELL_CPC%257c0%257c%257cP_MAN_PART_NUM%257c0%26amp%3BNtpc%3D1%26amp%3BNtpr%3D1&showResults=true&aa=true&pf=110075262&vw=(One concern is the calibration pot for initially setting the gain to get exactly 12Vp-p - any comments ? )Each of the outputs is buffered by a unity gain op-amp, again a high precision, low drift OP07The design also provides a 5Vp-p output for testing non TrueRMS AC meters.The output should be 5V precisely due to the 5V regulator being derived from a precision 5V reference (LM336 shown but could go to something like a REF02)So, any thoughts, comments please?

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 04:25:29 pm
content: For your 12vpp signal would it be a sine or square. For the square wave pirtion of your signal it would be interesting to see if the 5v input is still 5v on the output. Wouldn't matter as much if this was for an o-scope.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 04:40:04 pm
content: QuoteSine. The crystal should produce something very close to a sine wave, which is then amplified up to the 12Vp-pQuoteAre you referring to a possible output drop by the 74HC00 ?

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 06:09:55 pm
content: You might want to check the specs of your meters. I'm not sure if 32khz is too high of a frequency. Most are specced for audio frequencies, or lower.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 06:33:13 pm
content: Hi vgkidYou are rightOh well back to the drawing board.
Another, ATX PSU modification thread.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Fflint
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2021, 10:38:44 am
content: I have a 1000W ATX computer power supply. It is a nice device (Cooler Master M2 silent Pro) capable of sourcing over 80 amps of 12V current.I have so far modified it to provide potentiometer adjustable voltage between 12.1V and 15.7V. It is being used as a large lead acid battery charger. I had to disable the overcurrent and overvoltage protection circuits so there is none. Therefore I'm not using it unattended. Just when I want to do a quick top up.The PSU uses a Cm6802 PWM controller. So my voltage control is accomplished by inserting a 20k potentiometer into the voltage feedback path.This works well for what I'm using it for, but I have another potential use for it mind. It is to periodically charge batteries from a generator while said batteries are connected to an inverter that is under load. I think the best way to do this would be for the ATX PSU to be a voltage limited constant current source. If the inverter is under a load that exceeds the PSUs set current it should lower the voltage down to as low as 10.5V (so the batteries can pick up the slack or the inverter low voltage cut off will shut it down). Unfortunately the PWM control circuit uses a built in reference voltage so I can't really lower the voltage below 12.1V with my current setup.So I'm considering an external circuit for current control. For example a single IRFP3206 mosfet attached to a large radiator (possibly with a fan too). Biased with an LM317 voltage regulator controlled with a potentiometer. The current would be set for up to 50A at most. Maximum voltage drop expected on the transistor 4V. 200W is within the spec of the transistor.Of course a buck converter would have lower losses, but I'm trying to keep it simple.So what do you think? Is there an easier way to control the current of the psu, perhaps?BTW, I'm following the usual high voltage safety recommendations. I have an isolation transformer a variac and a current limiting light bulb (I know not everyone is a fan of those, but they do work nicely). Also my AC is a dedicated circuit with a 6A breaker and an RCD.For those interested here is a picture of the modified PSU before I made extra holes in the chassis.
Another common mode choke that might be useful as transformer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2021, 05:48:14 pm
content: https://www.murata.com/en-us/products/productdata/8796759031838/EFLC0026.pdfThe drawing pretty distinctly shows it's a gapped (wound spool) type construction. I have to wonder if they're really made that way or it's a mistake, but it implies lots of energy storage, rather than early saturation.(Note that, even if coated in epoxy, and it were loaded with ferrite or something, that would still provide a lot of distributed airgap, so be fair game for this sort of (ab)use.)In the past, I've used parts like Pulse PE-1812ACC101STS up to 50mA or so, before saturation. Not bad considering the small gap (presumably, ferrite chips glued closely together). Enough you can do a tiny (sub-1W) flyback, and the leakage is low. (Isolation is low too, of course: these data line chokes usually top out at 100V.)Tim