Power Schottky rectifier bad need replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: luke9511
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2020, 05:45:02 am
content: hey everyone i hope you are all well, i am attempting to repair a 50k model playstation 2 fat console and i have found that the Power Schottky rectifier is bad and needs to be replaced, here is the datasheet for ithttps://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/227512/STMICROELECTRONICS/STPS30L60CT.html,i have an old pc power supply and was wondering if i could use the same part from it to fix this console?the voltages on the power supply for the console are AC 120V~1.7A input and output DC 12v 7.2ahere are the datasheets for the parts from the pc power supply, if none work let me know and i will just buy a direct replacement1.https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/251944/VISHAY/V40100C.html2.https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/221219/STMICROELECTRONICS/LM317T.html3.https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/88595/STMICROELECTRONICS/L7912CV.html4.https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stps30l60c.pdfthanks for any help and advice

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 11, 2020, 08:04:51 am
content: The STPS30L60C is a slightly different package to the STPS30L60CT (original), so see if it fits ok. The V40100C is close enough and should work fine - similar enough specs.Not sure why you listed the LM317 and LM7912? They are not shottky pairs, just linear regulators.

author: luke9511
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2020, 01:27:59 am
content: still a newb to trying to figure out what things are etc, i did pull the part and got it installed but when i do a continuity test on it after its soldered in i get a beep on all three pins, does this mean its bad or there is a short some where?

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 12, 2020, 02:08:48 am
content: OK no worries, you've come to the right place. Since it is already soldered in, it becomes a bit "trickier" - refer following picYou put the meter in diode test mode - Pos (Red) on A1 (Anode) with Neg (Black) on K (Kathode). You should see app 0.4V. Switch Pos to A2 and it should be the same !If you reverse the leads, it should be open cct = same readings as with leads free.In circuit, there is no way to predict what you'll see, as the "test voltage" may trigger other components or charge up caps or connect to chokes etc etc. Only experience may help here, BUT it should be a similar pattern ie 1 set higher / the other lower, and definitely not 0V. See how you go

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 12, 2020, 02:10:38 am
content: Quote from: digsys on February 11, 2020, 08:04:51 amSTPS30L60C is a general name of the part with zero information about package of which there are 6 variants. CT is TO-220, instead of that CTN can be used which is variant of TO-220 with narrow leads.

author: luke9511
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2020, 03:52:33 am
content: Quote from: digsys on February 12, 2020, 02:08:48 amunfortunately the old one broke as i was trying to take it out, however this power supply seems to have two of them but the other is a different model, here is the datasheet for ithttps://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/24604/STMICROELECTRONICS/STPS2045CT.html, the readings are pos on A1 and neg lead on K i get 0.215 and it goes down if i keep the leads in place, if i switch the leads i get 0

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 12, 2020, 04:01:25 am
content: Quote from: luke9511It's lower voltage and current, but good enough for test purposes. So, you're on "Diode test mode" .. If so, the first reading is ~0.2V and dropping due to other components. The 0V reading is MOST likely a capacitor charging up, as if it was TRUE 0V, it would measure that in both directions. Let it on the 0V reading for several seconds, and see if it starts to rise = capacitor

author: luke9511
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2020, 04:21:17 am
content: Quote from: digsys on February 12, 2020, 04:01:25 amsorry i feel stupid but i am testing it off the board as i desoldered it, i apologize for not saying that before

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 12, 2020, 04:45:04 am
content: Quote from: luke9511Naaa, no need for sorry ... sheet happens :-) ... Well, that changes things. makes it weirder having 0V in 1 direction only .. you sure your meter is ok? it is in diode test mode?Can you find any other diode anywhere to check it on? Looking for a 0.2-0.4V in 1 direction, and OC in the other (IF it is removed), otherwise just different.

author: luke9511
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2020, 05:01:00 am
content: Quote from: digsys on February 12, 2020, 04:45:04 amyup it is in diode mode, i even tried a second meter and got the same thing, grabbed the pc power supply i am using for parts and tested the other V40100C that are in there and when i switch the leads around i get the same reading about 0.111

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 12, 2020, 05:58:05 am
content: Quote from: luke9511Well, should not be the same reading, or even any reading in reverse. Likely fried. One last way to prove it, if you want - Battery 1.5-12V, and lamp etc to suit. Connect it in series with each diode. First Fwd, then reverse. It should ONLY light in 1 direction each time. Final proof.

author: luke9511
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2020, 11:37:41 pm
content: before i do that i went ahead and desoldered the last three and when i put my meter to diode test mode it shows 1.496 without my leads touching each other or anything else, when i put the pos on A1 and the neg on K i get .149 and the same if i put the pos on A2 but if i put the pos lead on K and the neg lead on A1 or A2 i get 1.491 and i get those numbers on all three that i desoldered

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 13, 2020, 12:10:14 am
content: Quote from: luke9511Perfect. The ~1.5V is the open circuit test voltage the meter uses - means it can test diodes / zeners etc UP TO ~1.5V. Those are good

author: luke9511
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2020, 12:27:08 am
content: awesome i will solder a couple of them in and give it a test and reply back the results

author: luke9511
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2020, 01:03:32 am
content: got everything in and checked everything and before i put it in the console i plug it up outside the console just incase and as soon as i hit the power switch there was either a spark or something exploded, i dont see anything blown or anything like that but the fuse is now bad, i think i am going to call this power supply fully dead and just buy one off of ebay rather than sink any more time or money (though i have only put 15 dollars into it for extra fuses and resistors) thanks for all of the help!

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2020, 01:11:33 am
content: If the fuse is blown that means there's a short on the primary side. These are usually some of the easiest SMPS faults to diagnose.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 13, 2020, 01:13:07 am
content: Quote from: luke9511Ahhh bummer mate. Yup, something further down must have caused the original fault. I get a few of those "favour" jobs each month - doing 3 right now :-) .. sometimes at some point, it isn't worth it ... gave up on 2 out of the last 4 :-)

author: luke9511
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2020, 01:16:40 am
content: this is just something i am trying to refurbish to sell off, lucky for me i didnt spend to much but anyway thanks again!