hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
AT30TS74 temperature register decoding - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: MrPuhur
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 01, 2022, 04:34:56 pm
content: The datasheethttps://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/Web_AT30TS74_0217.pdffor AT30TS74 temp sensor has a comprehensive list of examples on register value and temperature pairs.I wrote unit tests based on them for my driver and judging from some of them failing, it seems that my decoding is wrong (or the table is incorrect).Here's some examples hand-decoded:-55°C:Register value 0xC900. Last 4 bits are irrelevant. The value is negative. Since it uses 2's complement, a 16-bit int would be 0xFC90, which is -880 in decimal. The resolution is 0.0625 deg with the 0°C point being 0, so -880*0.0625 = -55. Great.-50.5°CRegister value 0xCE80. Last 4 bits are irrelevant. The value is negative. Since it uses 2's complement, a 16-bit int would be 0xFCE8, which is -792 in decimal. -792*0.0625 = -49.5. What?The sensor has a +- 1°C accuracy in most ranges. But factoring that into such a table seems way too weird.

author: devinatkin
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2022, 03:22:19 pm
content: Oh man this is a blast from my past. I had very similar issues when I was in undergrad trying to use this chip. My issue which took me WAY too long to notice happened to be that I was interpreting my bits backwards.looking for it to equal -808Which doing the binary to twos compliment conversion looks like this: 1111 1100 1101 1000If we grab the binary from the table we know we want it to look like this: 1100 1110 1000 0000We then ditch those last 4 bits given they're not relevant: 1100 1110 1000And then we need to extend out the last bit to make the 16-bit number: 1111 1110 1101 1000Which is the FCE8 you calculated, which in decimal assuming a 2s compliment int is -296...Which I initially thought was an issue with my interpretation of the 2s compliment; however, then I noticed my little tool calls it FCD8 not FCE8. So I'm pretty sure that there's a 1 bit error in the table. It says 1100 1110 1000 0000, but I'm pretty sure it should say 1100 1100 1000 0000.
AT90USB1286 ISP breakout for flashing bootloader - Which Vcc pin? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: online1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 02:03:17 am
content: I'm designing a AT90USB1286 board with ISP pinout for burning bootloader to the ic.The ic is running at 5V 16mhz with a 3.3v regulator and MAX3421E attached to it.I'm not sure which Vcc(UVcc) pin should I connect it to the breakout pin? what is the voltage should I supply to the ic when flashing bootloader?
Atari 5200 controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: grips03
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 12:41:11 am
content: I was going to look into making a new Atari 5200 controller as the original does not provide a self centering analog joystick. I've been looking at digikey, newark, mouser for a 500K pot joystick, but I can only find up to 100K with the 10Ks being most common and least expensive. Anyway to adapt this small pot size, to something larger, like the original 500K so it can interface properly to the Atari 5200 console?

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 02:02:26 am
content: Do a google search for "Atari 5200 controller" ,you`ll find plenty of hacks and mods.

author: grips03
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 02:51:19 am
content: most of the hacks and mods are digital joysticks. I'm looking to use a self centering analog joystick, but trying to find a 500k ohm 2 axis joystick is impossible. Hence I was thinking there could be a way to adapt 10k to do the job. But perhaps not.

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 02:57:27 am
content: do you mean similar to this one :http://learn.parallax.com/KickStart/27800EDIT : read this (5 pages) -http://atariage.com/forums/topic/206027-custom-5200-controller/

author: grips03
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 03:09:34 am
content: 500kohm as that is what the original used and the electronics inside the Atari 5200 expect that.Yes something like pictured.So far I'm thinking to use a self centering analog joystick, connect it to a micro controller to read in the analog value and then have the micro controller program a digital Potentiometer. I know Microchip and Analog Devices make these. But I'm trying to find a 500Kohm digital Potentiometer or see if there are other ways to do this.I know there are circuits to have a digital stick fake the Atari 5200 out, but they are either on or off and I'm looking to do something more.

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 03:11:38 am
content: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/206027-custom-5200-controller/

author: grips03
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 03:20:02 am
content: I'm on the forum and read that post.

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 03:27:20 am
content: oh well.Sorry ,i can`t offer any help.

author: grips03
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 03:27:27 am
content: found it!AD5242BRZ1M

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 03:51:13 am
content: http://emu-docs.org/Atari%205200/Controllers/5200cont.html
AT/ATX psu based on tl494 main keys switch form mje13007 to bu508d - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: slimax
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 07:29:44 am
content: Hi,I want to convert AT/ATX power supply to work with higher voltages 450-550V DC.I replaced two main input capacitors from 200V to 400V and main keys form mje13007 to bu508d.It works fine but up to around 20% of designed power capabilities.If I try to get more power from it - these transistors start heat-up really bad.Are these transistors too slow for that application (fall-time)?BU508D:Storage Time: 7msFall Time: 550nsMJE13007:Storage Time: 2msFall Time: 100ns?Heating is a little lower with higher input voltage (~500v), so I'm assuming that probably all other components are ok with that sort of voltages.Is there any way to make it working? I have 3-4 psu to convert and I already have these bu508d transistors which are also cheap.Or maybe someone know any other fast-switching high voltage (>=700v) npn transistor to be suitable for this application?The only difference in below schema are resistors instead of 330k I have 220k.Unfortunately I have no oscilloscope to make sure what's going on there.

author: eblc1388
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 05:19:38 pm
content: Quote from: slimax on June 23, 2022, 07:29:44 amThese resistors are there for self starting. You have increased the supply voltage so you definitely should increase the value of these resistors, as long as the power supply can reliably startup. Maybe the switching transistor does not fully turn off in operation causing possible heating problem.I would try 470K or higher until the power supply don't start. Then reduce the value a little.
ATEM MINI PRO TDP158 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Su
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 07, 2022, 10:45:05 pm
content: Hi EveryoneWanted to find out.I have an Atem Mini Pro and the HDMI Out stopped working. Suspecting the the TDP158 overheat and needs to be replaced.Now I have found a variation of TDP158s with different numbers. Are they all compatible?Check the example attached.Will really appreciate your help.
Atem Mini SDI Questions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tinkergit
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 15, 2024, 06:23:01 pm
content: Hello,I have an idea for adding information to an SDI stream.My current thoughts are getting an Atem Mini SDI (https://cvp.com/product/blackmagic-atem-mini) and taking it appart and using just the bottom board, the one with the processing and using thehttps://openswitcher.org/software on a linux single board computer which would also generate the information I need and chroma key it over to the SDI stream.My question is if it would actually function without the control panel or would it throw an error?Or the only way to find out is to tear it down and see if I can talk with it with the external software?Alternatively, if anyone has ideas on how to achieve this easier and in a more compact setup I would very much appreciate any advice.Thank you!
Atheros AR9331-AL1A vs AR9331-AL3A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: nowrd2xpln
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 19, 2013, 01:05:16 am
content: I'm doing some investigation on the TP-Link TL-W702n. It bares a lot of similarities to the TL-703n, but it uses the AR9331-AL3A SoC and was unable to find any documentation on that specific chip (AR9331-AL3A).There is a datasheet available for the "AR9331".http://see.sl088.com/w/images/6/69/AR9331.pdfIn section 9, "Ordering Information" of the data sheet (PRELIMINARY December 2010) it specifies:QuoteCould that imply that the "-AL3A" be leaded and maybe that the design (specifically the pinout) is no different that the "-AL1A"?Thanks!
atlas peak esr70+ questions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: lordstein
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2016, 12:16:46 am
content: Hello, I work repairing computers although most are software failures, i buy the atlas esr70 to detect some hardware failures of desktop motherboards.I bought yesterday the atlas esr70 at 220,000 Colombian pesos :- ($ 70 usd) in a store 100km away from my house.I saw this tester on Amazon or eBay at 130 or 150 usd. (450,000 Colombian pesos)on the official website of the manufacturer shows that the latest version firmware is 4.9my tester is in version 4.2, I think it was in the store since 2010 (basing in the manual).my question is if can i upgrade the firmware by myself ?.is really important upgrade to the latest version?

author: jeroen79
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2016, 12:49:45 am
content: I would ask the producer:http://www.peakelec.co.uk/
Atmega, USB 3.0, USB 2.0, I2C - Noise? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Tantalum
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 04:08:21 pm
content: HelloI'm trying to design a PCB which will host a M.2 LTE Modem and antenna just behind.I need to avoid EMI as much as possible, but I don't have any scope to make measurements.So I'm trying to follow the best practices.The board has the following IC and buses:- Atmega @8MHz with external oscillator- INA260 current/voltage sensors, I2C 100kbps- Temp/humidity SI7013 sensor, I2C 100kbps- IMU, I2C 100kbps- LTC4367 overvoltage protection IC with charge-pump (400kHz???) to drive the Mosfet- USB 3 + USB 2 Mux (2.5GHz and 48MHz)- SIM Card MUX (1-4MHz)- 1-Wire busSo, my questions?- Would it be a good idea to use a tin shield can over that stuff? Or would the tin can harm the performances of the LTE antenna located just behind (800-2600MHz)- Is it useful to add a ferrite bead on the Vcc line of the ICs, to avoid escaping of high frequency noise?Thank you

author: WildMOSFET
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 08:39:55 pm
content: I think a minimum of shielding is necessary, leaving the area near the antenna free.Ferrites are good for blocking electromagnetic disturbances, they are commonly used.Also insert a nearby ceramic or polyester capacitor on the circuit supply line.
ATMEGA32 , programming - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2013, 01:27:22 pm
content: Is it possible to read the chip for example by using this universal programmer,http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-MiniPro-TL866CS-Universal-BIOS-Programmer-EEPROM-FLASH-8051-AVR-GAL-PIC-SPI-/221092473435and then reverse the HEX code to get the actual written program in C? Something like de-compile?

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2013, 01:51:08 pm
content: you wont ever get the exact C out of it, as the compiler to begin with would have discarded and modified parts,however you can likely reconstruct roughly what it was doing if it wasn't doing any overly complex tasks,

author: Legit-Design
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2013, 01:56:56 pm
content: You can get the HEX out of micro with normal programmer meant for the part, no need for universal programmer. That's unless they burned the fuse, not even universal programmer is going to recover the hex when fuse is burned (to my current knowledge), unless the chip has a vulnerability in it. I think some people have used glitching to find such vulnerabilities in chips, sometimes successful, usually not.Just to make sure you want to do two different things, first get the hex out of the chip, second decompile to something normal people can read/understand more easily.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 26, 2013, 02:01:09 pm
content: You should be able to convert the hex to assembly (without comments, labels and variable names), and if you're skilled at reading assembly, you should be able to figure out what the assembly means if it's not too large/complex.I would typically recommend an Atmel AVRISP Mk. II or third-party USBasp over a universal programmer for AVR programming. Device support is usually better, and software support (eg. IDEs) is better. I typically reserve the universal programmers for EEPROMs or more obscure devices I don't have a dedicated programmer for.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2013, 02:02:11 pm
content: If you can get the hex out you can convert that directly into ASM but it wont be nice ASM, like a person would write, it will be ASM generated by a compiler.This is assuming that C was used to write the code in the first place. If the micro was coded in ASM from the start then the ASM you get from the Hex will be the same, just without nice labels and comments.

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2013, 02:31:32 pm
content: Thanks guys, I will probably get AVRISP USB interface like "alm" wrote and try to use Atmel Studio 6, or could I use Arduino UNO for this ISP programming purpose perhaps? which I already have.....

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 26, 2013, 02:35:46 pm
content: If it's for occasional use then using an ISP sketch for the Arduino should be fine. I would get a real ISP programmer if you're going to use it regularly, though. They're more robust, feature a nice cable and support a wide range of target voltages from 1.8 V to 5 V.
atmega328 programmer question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: paulhm81
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2014, 08:08:02 pm
content: hia friend of mine has a GQ-4X Willem Programmer for a good price. I have a crappy esr meter based on the atmega328 that I broke i think by not discharging a capacitor. It still works for some measurements but the esr is all over the place. My question is if this programmer is ok for reading the original atmega and program a new one. In the supported device list it says I need a AVRISP connection. I don't understand what that is because if I look at the adapters on this site -http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4282- at the adapters it shows what seems a stand alone programmer. I don't know anything about programmers so maybe someone would enlighten me. Does it work for the atmega328 without an adapter? Another question I have is if the gq-4x programmer is a decent one because I need one for notebooks. I'm seeing a lot of notebooks with a corrupted bios these days.This is the list of adapters for the gq-4x -http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/LeftStart.asp?idCategory=30thank you!i forgot to say that i'm using the atmega328p-pu version

author: majki
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2014, 10:35:44 pm
content: Hello,If your ESR meter is a commercial one you have no chance to read the program from the broken PIC thus it is certanly code protected. If it is an opensource meter get the latest firmware from the net.For programming via AVRISP you probably need this adapter:http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4310AVRISP = SPI modeBest regards

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2014, 10:48:22 pm
content: By any chance, is your ESR meter a Transistor Tester? Firmware 1.xxk (x = digit)?

author: paulhm81
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 04:35:39 am
content: Quote from: madires on March 28, 2014, 10:48:22 pmyes! it's 1.10K It's not a commercial one. I have a commercial esr but this one is more convenient because it shows the capacitance too ( I know it's a crappy one ). I'm sure I can find the bin somewhere. The more important question was about the capability of the programmer to write this chip.

author: paulhm81
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 05:00:30 am
content: I think I found my answer. On a forum it says:"I have tested Atmega8 in DIP28 and QFP32 ,and the ISP does the same job when correctly connected.You need only a 5VDC power supply between Vss and Vccand connect with 5 wires, /RST ,MISO ,MOSI ,SCK and GND from the GQ4X to the pins of the chip."

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 02:25:05 pm
content: Quote from: paulhm81 on March 29, 2014, 04:35:39 amv1.10k is fairly current. You can get the latest version athttp://www.mikrocontroller.net/svnbrowser/transistortester/Software/trunk/and the English documentation athttp://www.mikrocontroller.net/svnbrowser/transistortester/Doku/trunk/pdftex/english/.
ATmega328P - Which datasheet to use? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: avibag
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 15, 2024, 06:32:13 pm
content: Hello everyone.It might be a dumb question, I hope for the best. I am trying to find the right datasheet for the ATMega328P. I don't have much experience with embedded microcontrollers - I used to program for the x86. Anyway, I found two different datasheets:https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/ATmega48A-PA-88A-PA-168A-PA-328-P-DS-DS40002061A.pdfhttps://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/Atmel-7810-Automotive-Microcontrollers-ATmega328P_Datasheet.pdfWhich one should I use? The first one looks newer, as it's branded Microchip and not Atmel, but it's for many other models as well, while the second one is for the 328 only.Thanks.

author: pcprogrammer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2024, 06:42:16 pm
content: It does not matter which one you choose. The differences between the ones in the first datasheet are about the amount of memory and io pins. The architecture is the same for all of them.When there are differences to take into account for a specific one it will be mentioned in the datasheet.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2024, 06:50:16 pm
content: Newer, of course. If in doubt, check the errata:The latter only has up to Rev D devices (p.288). The former, curiously, describes Rev A-B errata that were left out of the previous datasheet, and includes up to Rev K devices (although, E-J aren't documented either).Always check the errata. Especially Microchip, but especially always. The product page may link separate documents or even reports or web pages covering this. It's possible the Atmel-era data didn't include it in the datasheet as it was written separately (without noting as such..!), or they were compiled after 2015 (and the datasheet not updated to show, or, this is simply an old copy; I'm guessing you pulled both links from the product page though?).Even devices as seemingly simple as an AVR can have dumbfounding hardware errors in them; watch out!Not sure if you can find chip revision info on the package itself; they don't document markings in the datasheet. Probably a supplementary document does, or maybe a quality or general doc specifies marking. Or if it's visible by serial number or other identifying fuse/signature data. Not that there's much present on the old MEGAs.Tim

author: avibag
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 15, 2024, 08:11:22 pm
content: I understand. Thanks!
Atmega32u4 bootloading and drivers. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ARGLaser
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2013, 03:38:54 am
content: Hey Everyone,I'm trying to integrate a bare Atmega32u4 chip into my own board instead of relying on an Arduino.I've managed to bootload it using an Arduino as an ISP with the Leonardo bootloader, but when I plug it into USB it says unrecognized device and the Arduino drivers do not work.Am I doing somthing wrong? I can't figure out why the drivers wont work since it bootloaded.This is how I've got it hooked up:I'm still new to AVR and I'm probably in over my head, but if someone could help me out that would be most appreciated

author: TerminalJack505
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2013, 03:45:14 am
content: Did you program the fuses with the proper values to enable the external crystal and disable the prescaler, etc?

author: Harvs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2013, 03:46:34 am
content: On whatever type of system you're on, retrieve the vid and pid for the device with it plugged in (Google will tell you how for your operating system.) then compare that to vid and pid of the ardiuno.

author: ARGLaser
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2013, 03:55:10 am
content: I had no idea about fuses up until this point, how do I program them?I just found this:http://www.ladyada.net/learn/avr/fuses.htmlbut it doesn't explain how to set them.

author: TerminalJack505
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2013, 04:16:40 am
content: What I would do, so far as the fuses go, is use avrdude from the command line. avrdude was installed as part of the Arduino IDE so you'll find it somewhere on your system. You can use the terminal mode to see how the fuses are currently programmed. It looks like "burn bootloader" from the Arduino IDE actually does program the fuses, though, so that may not be the problem. It wouldn't hurt to double-check, however.Are you sure you have the right pinout for the USB connector? It looks like D+ and D- might be swapped. D- is usually shown as pin 2 and D+ is pin 3. Of course pin numbers are completely arbitrary so it may be fine.

author: ARGLaser
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2013, 04:53:53 am
content: That solved my problems, the USB connector was indeed backwards! Many thanks to you TerminalJack!

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2013, 04:59:25 am
content: This one is rather nicehttp://www.engbedded.com/fusecalcEven tells the avrdude commandline (if you know the fuse settings)/Cfo
Atmega32u4- MU   Slightly different part numbers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Pedro147
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2016, 10:16:20 am
content: I purchased two lots of Atmega32u4- MU IC's from Element14 and Digikey. I searched for both parts using the manufactures part number of ATMEGA32U4-MU to identify them at the two suppliers prior to ordering them. The parts from Digikey are marked Atmel Mega32U4 - MU1448E TH A2KHXAwhereas the ones from Element14 are marked Atmel Mega32U4 - MU1604E PH A35U3ABoth are QFN44 but i am perplexed as to what the different suffix to part numbers mean. Any help appreciated please

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 10, 2016, 10:48:25 am
content: Nothing that you should care about. Apart from from the date code, manufacturing plant and lot number.

author: Pedro147
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2016, 11:02:55 am
content: Thank you for your reply @wraper I can now sleep easy tonightHave a great day
Atmel debugWIRE - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Aztlanpz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2017, 02:33:04 pm
content: anyone know if you can use debugWire on an Atmel Atmega328p; and if yes do you have an schematic.Aztlan

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2017, 05:39:25 pm
content: DebugWire works over a reset pin. You will also have to connect VCC and GND from the target to the debugger. There is no schematic for this. And atmega238p does support DebugWire.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2017, 06:20:45 pm
content: Atmel Studio and a supported debugWire capable debugger will need a full 6 pin Atmel ISP connection to the ATmega328P to be able to program its fuses to enter/exit debugWire mode.Also, you cant have any capacitor on /RESET.

author: Aztlanpz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2017, 01:27:39 am
content: thanks for all the help
atmel studio 7.0 - tutorial - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: arul
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2019, 07:22:21 am
content: Hi all,Now I am working atmel studio 7.0. I am new this atmel studio IDE. Before i worked in MPLAB x IDE. I feel very complicated to work in atmel studio. Still now i didn't write simple i/o configuration. In MPLAB x IDE, easily wrote the i/o configuration like that using TRIS, LAT bits etc. But in the atmel studio, i didn't get in the way of MAPLAB x IDE. Here also I seen some example projects, they make some function for i/o configuration. I can't understand why they are created function for the i/o configuration and everything. And maximum of function created by using structure concept.Right now , I want write code for SAML21J18B, Please help me and give your suggestion.Advance in thanks.

author: perieanuo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2019, 04:30:19 pm
content: Try eclipseEnvoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk
Atmel Studio 7 ATTIny84 ISP programming error - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ACertainIdioticEngineer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 20, 2020, 02:48:07 pm
content: good day everyone!I'm currently tring to programm a fabric new ATTINY84 but it won't respond. As I have 2 of them and both don't work i guess there is somekind of an error in my settings as i can programm an Arduino Nano over the same programmer without any problems.Extern Tool settings:Titile: USBaspcommand: D:\Downloads\avrdude-6.3-mingw32\avrdude.exearguments: -c usbasp -p t84 -P usb -U flash:w:"$(OutDir)Debug\$(TargetName).hex"initial directory: $(ProjectDir)as seen in the attachment the USBasp creates the clk signal and also sends out the MOSI however the only signal i get on the MISO line is noise from the clk I guess.As my teacher suggested i also tried a manual eset before i program but i get the same results again with both of them.
Atmel Studio: Is there a way to see how much of the chip resources are being use - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Dmeads
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2020, 09:36:23 pm
content: Hi, new to Atmel studio 7, and Im writing some DSP programs for the ATmega328p.I work with FPGAs a lot, and some design software can tell you how much of the chip is being used, and what resources (FFs, multipliers, BRAM, etc...)Is there a way to see this on the Atmel studio? like see how much memory the program uses?Im just wondering because my filter kernel is very small, making the FIR filter have a large transition bandwidth. I want to increase the kernel size, but Im not sure how big I can make it.Thanks,-Dominic

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2020, 11:33:17 pm
content: When you build a project it prints the resources used in the console window. There is a lot of noise there, but they will be printed close to the end of the log.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2020, 12:18:10 am
content: Rather than using up fixed hardware resources, you're using the same hardware resources (the CPU) on different data over time. So, it's a question of execution time relative to the sample rate.The best I've done on an XMEGA at 32MHz is around 0.5M MAC/s (a mix of 8x16 and 16x16 bit operations). You'll find about half that on the '328P (at 16MHz), and considerably less (1/5 to 1/10th?) using the stock compiler (GCC).If you're using very few taps but long delays (e.g. a reverb generator?), you'll run out of SRAM first; there's only a few kB onboard, and the utilization is shown, as mentioned above. (Assuming the arrays are allocated statically -- local variables (allocated on the stack) will not show up here!)Tim

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2020, 02:15:38 am
content: Do you mean like this?Code:C:>elfview dds.elf /f32768 /r2560Code: 11072Data: 0Zero: 1072Flash: 11072 / 32768 = 33.8%RAM: 1072 / 2560 = 41.9%(Sorry, elfview isn't part of Studio.)

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2020, 02:19:16 am
content: avr-size does the same, but is part of AS. And also is used to produce that output I'm talking about already.

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2020, 12:38:10 pm
content: Quote from: ataradov on August 08, 2020, 02:19:16 amOh, this is interesting!avr-size had some patches to know about device sizes. It used the -C flag.But the device types and sizes were hard-coded in avr-size.avr-gcc started adding the .note.gnu.avr.deviceinfo section in the elf.It includes model and size.avr-objdump -Pmem-usage <elf> can read that info without recourse to anything external.
Attach power to vdd or vpp on thermal sensor? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Ducttape
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 08:56:19 pm
content: I have a Grid-Eye 8x8 thermal sensor (AMG8854). Any tutorials I've found using this sensor assume the AdaFruit breakout board (using similar AMG8833). Adafruit labeled their power connection 'VIN'. My Panasonic version of the same chip offers both 'VPP' and 'VDD' connections. What's the difference (i.e. which should I use)? The attached photo shows the Panasonic datasheet info on top and the Adafruit board below.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 09:05:06 pm
content: You could check the schematic for the Adafruit board or even the datasheet for the sensor.AFAICT, Vpp isn't used...Typically, Vpp is used for device programming

author: Nerull
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 09:14:03 pm
content: https://industrial.panasonic.com/cdbs/www-data/pdf/ADI8000/ADI8000C62.pdf"Make electrical potential of terminals 9  and 13  the same."When you have a question about how a chip should be connected, check the datasheet. You should probably be reading datasheets for any chip you're using anyway.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 09:27:33 pm
content: AVDD-PC 20R (not R1 200R in your pic)

author: Ducttape
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 09:53:37 pm
content: Quote from: floobydust on May 16, 2018, 09:27:33 pmMy pic is from the Panasonic datasheet. Are you saying there's an error in it?

author: Ducttape
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 10:05:15 pm
content: Quote from: Nerull on May 16, 2018, 09:14:03 pmMy pic was taken from the Panasonic datasheet, from Digikey, entitled "Infrared Array Sensor Grid-EYE (AMG8854M01), which doesn't include the circuit diagram in your post. Thanks for the additional info.
Attaching a .jpg file - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Richard Head
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2014, 08:03:08 am
content: How do I attach a .jpg file?I know I must click on the "insert image" icon but don't know what to type in thething.Your help is appreciated.

author: mrflibble
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2014, 04:04:43 pm
content: Quote from: wilfred on July 16, 2014, 08:12:00 amIf it hasn't been frowned upon yet, it gets frowned upon now. *frowns upon that practice*Because it is precisely as you say. A couple of years later when someone finds a useful thread complete with photos of the project, it suddenly is a lot less useful when all those external picture links are horribly broken. No such problem if the pictures are in the same database as the forum posts. At least that way it's all or nothing.

author: Richard Head
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2014, 07:29:20 pm
content: WilfredThanks for the help. I have now managed to attach some images.Dick
Attaching a PCB to a box with risers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Skippy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 09:16:27 pm
content: So I'm replacing a PCB in a plastic box. Currently the PCB is attached to the box by some risers- there are holes in the PCB, which you put screws through, which attach to plastic risers moulded to the base of the case. The trouble is that my new PCB has different dimensions from the old one- I can cut the old risers off no bother, but how do I attach some new ones to the bottom of the case to fit the holes in the new PCBs? I'd quite like to do it without marking the outside of the box at all.Any suggestions?

author: dr_p
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 09:19:00 pm
content: A+B=epoxy

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 09:42:06 pm
content: Instead of attaching the risers to the plastic box, attach them to another flat piece of plastic or metal. This other piece could be small pieces maybe one cm. square for each riser or it could be one piece the size of the PCB. The size would depend on how heavy the PCB is and how much banging around it's going to experience. Then use double-sided foam-core tape to attach this to the inside of the plastic box. Make sure you've got it right because you'll have an awful time getting it out if you make a mistake!Ed

author: bookaboo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 02:11:32 pm
content: Make a mounting plateGet some FR4 (or anything suitable), cut to size of the original PCB and drill the mounting holes for the original box.Then drill holes and fit spacers to suit the new PCB.

author: Skippy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 09:10:52 pm
content: Some good ideas here.I bought some of thesehttp://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/pcb-prototyping/pcb-spacers-pillars-supports/adhesive-backed-supports/but I am already regretting it as it turns out my replacement board hasn't got any holes at all, and I can't really drill any.Many thanks for the idea of mounting it on something that has got the right sized holes though. Time for some

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2013, 06:02:09 pm
content: 3M double sided foam tape...........

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2013, 08:33:53 pm
content: Some of this stuff, careful use the wrong one and you will never get it apart again, I have stuck 1.5 mm steel sheet with the stuff and tried to pull it apart and the steel tore.http://www.vikingtapes.co.uk/c-88-indoor-double-sided-foam-tapes.aspx?gclid=CKeVj72vtLYCFcHHtAodu3QAOA
Attaching F Connectors to Coaxial Cable - A Beginner's Learnings (Version 1.0) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 07:57:53 pm
content: Probably most people here need little to no help with attaching F connectors to a coaxial cable but just in case you want some info on the subject attached is a .pdf that summarizes my learnings. Please feel free to comment with any corrections or suggestions on the content or typos or whatever and I'll try to update the document as needed.Edit May 16, 2020: Version 1.1 attached (mostly just a few edits to fix typos, etc.)Also, after reading edpalmer4's post on his preferred tool I found the same model and did some testing. It's like edpalmer42 says, the tool makes a very good installed connector for both RG6 and RG59 connectors. With the ribbed connectors this tool retains their radial geometry rather than turning them into hex shapes as with a hex crimper. I only tried the ribbed but I'm sure the plain connectors also work well. This crimp tool really can make connectors look like they were installed on the cable at a factory. The particular tool I tried was used and somewhat old/fatigued so maybe it's not a fair comparison but I found it required more force than a new compression tool. Also, it looks like this is a somewhat expensive tool when new (over $100?). Net, net on this tool, it probably pays for itself by allowing you to use less expensive radially compressible connectors if you install enough connectors.Zooming out, I thought about adding this tool to the pdf document but I decided that other than fixing typos and making minor edits I'm inclined to leave the document largely as is and let it live here on EEVblog with the thought that additional/new and improved information can be added in the thread. The document is just a starting point and the thread can be the latest related info.So thanks to edpalmer42 for being the first contributor/improver of the document's subject matter via the thread.

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 10:42:50 pm
content: You missed my favorite crimper. I first ran across this at work and liked it so much I bought one for myself. You can use plain RG-6 or ribbed RG-59 connectors and the result is very sleek and clean. Looks like it came out of a factory rather than something you did with a hand tool.https://www.ebay.com/itm/193431891639?orig_cvip=trueI've attached a picture that shows before and after for both RG-6 and RG-59 connectors.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2020, 01:06:09 am
content: Quote from: edpalmer42 on May 12, 2020, 10:42:50 pmWow. Nice find! Looks like it does an excellent job on both RG-6 and RG-59. I'd like one of those.I sure hope F connector tools aren't like oscilloscopes. If Par for oscilloscopes is 19 I can only imagine how many F connector tools we might need.
Attempt at worked power loss example - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: GreyArea
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2016, 01:35:22 pm
content: I’m trying to work through an exercise, you’ll probably recognise it. We’re trying to supply 10E10 power at 115V through a cable with resistance 0.05u? per foot. Calculate the power loss per foot.OK, so our good friend P=IV gets rearranged to I=P/V so I get 869E6 Amps (869MA).Next we’ll calculate the power loss on the foot of cable;I now have the current and the resistance so let’s calculate the Vdrop;Vdrop=IR = 869MA x 0.05u? = 869E6x.05E-6 = 43.45VSo what’s the power loss? Well, I can now do P=IV on the loss of 43.45V so;Ploss= 869MA x 43.45 = 37GW!! This is bigger than the power we started out with, so does this mean that we’re losing more power than we start with?To calculate Vdrop, I’m multiplying the current by a much smaller number so obviously I’ll get a fractional result, I think the mistake I’m then making is that I’m now taking that result and multiplying it by the same starting current as it’s >1 of course I’m going to get a bigger result.I think my answer must be wrong because later questions are asking me to calculate how long the cable would need to be before the power is completely lost. I just don’t know where I’ve gone wrong in my thinking.

author: Chalcogenide
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2016, 01:58:15 pm
content: 10E10 = 1E11 = 100GW, and 37GW/100GW is almost equal to 43.5V/115V, so it all works out fine, although the numbers in this exercise are very far away from any realism.

author: keethrax
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2016, 04:18:35 pm
content: Quote from: Chalcogenide on November 10, 2016, 01:58:15 pmWell, he didn't make up the numbers... it's straight out of the Art of Electronics for one, and probably ends up elsewhere as well. The whole point of the exercise is why the power grid isn't (Low Voltage) DC. Parenthetical note to head of the "What about HVDC transmission lines?" question.Hey GreyArea: Are you looking at one of the new (3rd) edition books, or an older one? Just curious if the exercise made the transition into the new book.EDIT: Addressed question to wrong personEDIT 2: Fixed typo
Attempting to make a Buck/Boost Converter (Flyback) with a 555 timer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ketszim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 02, 2017, 12:11:48 pm
content: So I've managed to make the following buck/boost converter using an ATTINY85 to generate the square wave, but I wanted to try and make this same circuit with a 555 timer to generate the pwm, would this be possible? And what are the likely issues I might run into?The circuit I built:https://easyeda.com/GreatScott/ATtiny_Buck_Boost_Converter-RXig0YIifCredit to GreatScott:http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-BuckBoost-Converter-Flyback/This is the idea for the 555 timer circuit(This is the closest thing I could find to my idea):http://www.555-timer-circuits.com/led-dimmer.htmlThanks!
Atten 858d and WEP 858d the Same? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Adam60
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2017, 04:41:31 pm
content: Good Afternoon.1) Just curious if the Atten 858D and the WEP 858D are the same beast2) Can the Atten 858D be purchased in Canada?Thank you

author: Hideki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2017, 05:15:39 pm
content: Hard to say for sure, but the question has come up before:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/atten-vs-w-e-p-858d/

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2017, 06:24:21 am
content: Boards and revisions may be different across all hot air stations, so if you buy an Atten 858d at a later date you might not even get the same internals. They also tend to use whatever MCU or parts they can get hold of. People have reported one type of branded pcb in another brands station.You can buy Atten stations in China and on various Chinese websites, Amazon and Ebay etc. Who knows if they are stocked in Canada, these are Chinese made and sold stations.
ATTEN ADS1102CAL 100MHz Digital Oscilloscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dave_birdi
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2013, 02:24:20 pm
content: Considering buying my first scope, I'm a newbie and don't really need anything too fancy.I've spotted an ATTEN ADS1102CAL 100 MHz Digital Oscilloscope for £ 236 [ ~ USD $380 ] (I live in the United Kingdom)http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ATTEN-ADS1102CAL-100MHz-Digital-Oscilloscope-1102CAL-Shipping-UK-/190724341892?pt=UK_VideoGames_VideoGameAccessories_VideoGameAccessories_JN&hash=item2c680e8084Does this seem like a reasonable purchase?

author: Deepak
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2013, 04:28:11 pm
content: Honestly, I'd recommend a Rigol or an Owon instead.You can get a 100mhz Owon for just a few more quid, or the 50mhz Rigol is a comparable price and can be hacked to 100mhz.

author: selkathguy
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 09, 2013, 02:57:21 pm
content: Quote from: Deepak on January 08, 2013, 04:28:11 pmAgreed.Quote from: Deepak on January 08, 2013, 04:28:11 pmAlso just a note:You can no longer hack the 1052 (50Mhz model) to the 1102 (100Mhz model). At least not remotely as easily as you were once able to. They have updated the firmware again to remove that vulnerability.To the OP: I am in the process of building my first lab too, and here's the scope I picked up and I highly recommend it for your first scope.http://www.rigolna.com/products/digital-oscilloscopes/ds1000e/ds1102e/It's the same price straight from RIGOL, and it works, and has a lot of nice measurement tools and features for the price. I'm quite satisfied with mine, and Dave even recommended it on the blog to people who have really nice expensive scopes, because its light, small, easy to use, and still very useful. Definitely grab the 100Mhz model if you can.

author: dave_birdi
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2013, 06:42:24 pm
content: Quote from: selkathguy on January 09, 2013, 02:57:21 pmThanks selkathguy,If I purchase from your link and have it shipped to the United Kingdom do you know if any import duty tax is due?Thanks,
Atten AT936b soldering station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vertigo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2011, 02:54:39 pm
content: http://www.mib-instruments.com/servlet/the-87/ATTEN-AT936B-Soldering-Station/Detailany good for a beginning hobbyist?

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2011, 03:25:36 pm
content: Too expensive for a "936" clone.The now discontinued original Hakko 936 was something around $80 to $90. Clones start at $30, while $40 to $50 are common. The $72 for that clone is ridicules.The quality of the clones are typically very similar. They do work, aren't too great, and you can get spare tips from many of the clone manufacturers or use original Hakko tips.

author: Trigger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2011, 09:16:32 pm
content: No, as mentioned it's a clone and an expensive one at that.You can't go wrong with spending a bit more and getting a Hakko FX-888.

author: Vertigo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2011, 12:54:05 am
content: ok thxz.

author: Ferroto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2011, 01:54:40 pm
content: Quote from: Trigger on June 18, 2011, 09:16:32 pmYa I'm thinking of getting the FX-888 myself. Mainly because it doesn't take up much space on my bench.

author: Ronnie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2011, 12:30:57 pm
content: Try thishttp://www.sparkfun.com/products/9672from SparkFun Electronics.
Attenuation with Scalar Network Analyzer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: staticshock
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2025, 02:43:44 pm
content: The test setup requires a Scalar Network Analyzer and Signal Generator to measure attenuation of a 3dB attenuator inserted into the Measurement Plane, as defined in the attached figure, from 0.8GHz to 18GHz.The SNA B and C path reference are established prior. However, when the attenuator is inserted into the measurement plane, the readings are very sporadic. I’ll see inconsistent readings that are not even nominally close to the attenuator’s value. The measurements for the 3dB attenuation displayed on the SNA is in the attached picture.The GPIB Addresses are correctly setup, which I can confirm since the Signal Generator amplitude changes accordingly when the power level on the SNA is altered. I’ve checked all cabling and made sure they are correct and secure. The SNA and components recently passed calibration. Are there any possible issues with the test setup that is causing the inconsistent readings?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 26, 2025, 05:13:31 pm
content: Don't double post pleasae!