Goot PX-501 / PX-601 Mini Soldering Stations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: testmode
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2016, 06:21:06 pm
content: Dave has 2 soldering irons and of course I have to get one too (proof) O0My workbench is pretty cramped so my primary requirement is compactness but it still has to have temperature control and be of reasonable quality (i.e. worth what you pay for).Scouring around yielded a few options:1) Goot PX-501 / PX-601 Mini Soldering Stations (Gootlinkandlink, respectively)2) BK950D (eBay)3) DIY T12 soldering iron controller kit (eBay)The Goot PX-501 / PX-601 station is the more expensive option but I'm not sure of the reliability about going thru the other 2. With the DIY T12, I still have to look for a power supply and enclosure. And also, both are using T12 tips which is different than the one that my first station has (Hakko 900M series tips). The PX-501/PX-601 seems to be using similar tips so this is another plus factor for it.I'm ready to jump with the Goot PX-601 but I've been so used to trusting what people say or use on the internets that it makes me a bit worried because I could not find much information on it.I had a Goot iron a long time ago albeit without temperature control, just a high-low switch because that was the only thing I could afford (we had very limited options from where I grew up and online research/global shopping was non-existent back then). I have to admit I was quite happy with it and it served me well and lasted for as long as I can remember so I think Goot is a safe choice.Anyone has thoughts on this or better yet first-hand experience with Goot PX-501/PX-601 station? Or any other suggestions?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2016, 11:46:39 pm
content: FWIW, Goot makes professional soldering equipment, and is a well respected brand. In fact, their wick is so popular, it's highly counterfeited.Also, don't underestimate things like good ergonomics (i.e. iron is comfortable to hold for extended periods of time, including just the business end gets hot, not the handle).Personally, I'd probably opt for the 501 due to the easier access to the temp knob, and the light will be easier to see (assumes it's not on a shelf above your eye level).

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 14, 2016, 12:55:47 am
content: HiIf it's a contest between a real retail commercial product with support and an eBay item from "some guy named Bob", I would pick the retail item every time.Bob (the guy with the "Bob's Own Brand" soldering irons)

author: testmode
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2016, 04:37:38 pm
content: I initially thought that the 501 might have a different hardware than the 601 because of its bigger size (i.e. better supply stage) but looks like they seem to have practically similar internals:PX-501 PCB:PX-601 PCB:I'm going ahead with the PX-601 as its dimension suits my workbench real estate situation better than the 501. Thanks and appreciate the inputs!

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 14, 2016, 04:57:31 pm
content: HiSounds like a good decision. Let us know how it does after you get it and after you have used it for a few months.Bob

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2016, 05:22:34 pm
content: Not isolated, although better than a "firestick". Found a schematic for the similar PX-201:http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/209602/how-can-i-repair-a-goot-px-201-soldering-iron-which-was-exposed-to-too-high-ac-sThe photos don't make it easy to find the triac. Nothing appears to be physically as large as expected for an 80W device.

author: testmode
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2016, 06:02:03 pm
content: Good point. This will be my secondary iron and it will probably see a lot less playtime than my primary one so I am hoping that the probability of it causing damage due to lack of isolation will be on the "don't worry much" low side - or at least that is what I want to convince myself with since the iron is already on it's way. Plus it's Goot from Japan so I am hoping as well that they've done their homework better than our friend Wun Hung LowNot sure though whether it is actually Made in Japan or made in that place where everything is made.We'll see how it actually stacks up when I get my hands on it.

author: MartinX
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2016, 10:08:53 pm
content: I recently bought a BK950D and it works well so far, it has a particularly bad case of the cheap plastic stink from China. The board looks pretty well constructed, better than I thought but the electrolytics are from the most obscure brands so I plan to replace them because I like this station and I want it to last.

author: testmode
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2016, 04:24:08 pm
content: I got my Goot PX-601 the other day and here's my initial impressions. It is pretty well made. The temp controller and the handle are both made of plastic and it feels to be of good quality. FWIW, it has "Made in Japan" indicated in both the temp controller and the iron. Heats up ready for use in about 15 secs. It fits perfectly in the space that I have allocated for it in my workbench. If I have to complain, my only gripe about it is the cord leading to the iron is quite stiff and a little thicker than what I am used to (with my other X-tronic station and Hakko FX-888 at work).Overall, I am quite happy and satisfied with it.

author: testmode
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2016, 04:26:33 pm
content: Photos of internals...

author: HoracioDos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2017, 03:22:33 pm
content: Hello!I ordered the PX-601 model from Toolboom. I've always used a simple soldering iron (KX Series)Manual says " The PX-601 is equipped with a measuring terminal allowing easy measurement of leakage current and insulation resistance." There is also a procedure to check it in the 2nd page.Does anybody know what's its purpose? Is it something I should know?Thanks

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2017, 04:59:55 pm
content: Quote from: HoracioDos on February 13, 2017, 03:22:33 pmLeakage current test point is for checking if the soldering station is delivering excess current/voltage to the tip (which can damage sensitive components when soldering). The test point is probably a common point in the circuit.Insulation resistance would be an earth/ground test point to check if ESD safe or isolation, whichever the case.There are specifications out of the box so you can confirm if it's still within spec, bad instructions though.

author: Markus Enginethrust
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2017, 06:40:09 pm
content: I enjoy using my TS100 iron. But it is a bit expensive...

author: all_repair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2017, 10:48:45 pm
content: Goot bits may look very similar as Hakko, but they are not the same. I have damaged my Goot Px-601 to find this, beware.

author: HoracioDos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2017, 12:01:48 pm
content: Some User Manual Warnings1) When measuring the leakage current and insulation resistance, do not ground. If the leakage current is measured, the current meter will be damaged.2) When measuring the leakage current, be sure to connect a 1 Kohm resistor with the circuit in series.3) Do not insert the probes into the two measuring terminals at the same time.Acording to specs leak voltage should be under 2mV and insulation resistance over 100Mohm

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2017, 01:57:06 am
content: It's not temperature controlled its more like wattage/power control. The heater has only leads and the green lead goes to the body.