Quick 861X High Power Hot Air Station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 04:03:23 pm
content: Not seen much coverage of this particular unit so I thought I would get hold of it and see what's inside. Hope someone finds it useful.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 04:17:53 pm
content: 1. If you ramp the speed rapidly to the max every time it's cooling, it will be very annoying to everyone around. Bearings will be fine but your ears will suffer.2. BEST does not cause such lighting blinking probably because it has either fake power rating or regulates power as a dimmer (not very likely) instead of switching the heater ON/OFF like Quick.3. It wasn't shown how and what thermocouple was attached but I suspect it was done incorrectly. For example large thermocouple was used and some meaningful measurement expected. My temperature measurements of Quick station were bang on.4. That earth lead is not "earth lead", it's for ESD protection, not earthing as safety measure.5. Quick does not use no-name capacitors. Large capacitors are Lelon which are above averagehttps://eu.mouser.com/manufacturer/lelon/, not sure about smaller caps but Quick likes to use Jamicon.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 04:56:09 pm
content: Oh, and almost forgot the most important part. You commented that nozzle does not hold well but you failed to attach it properly. There is special tool to change nozzles. Also Quick uses the same nozzle as BEST on stations with different suffix. BEST is knockoff of quick after all.

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 06:20:25 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on May 07, 2020, 04:17:53 pmThe other stations which rapidly cool down are not annoying in my experience since they basically just sit at the elevated speed during cool down. This is a little more annoying in that it has an exponential increase in speed and shuts off just as it reaches full. Better would be a rapid ramp to some intermediate speed that gets it cool within a reasonable time frame.What temperature drift did you see with air speed? I found the cal menu, but it's only single point calibration so with different air speeds you get different temperatures.Jamicon is low grade, the fact they are commonplace doesn't change that.The earth lead is of course for electrical safety - the handpiece is not double insulated since there is no reinforced insulation in addition to the basic insulation. As mentioned it isn't CE marked and would not meet the electrical safety tests. Even a PAT would fail when you perform the earth impedance test.Quote from: wraper on May 07, 2020, 04:56:09 pmThe nozzles I received were not keyed properly, so can't be locked in place with the tool which is why I assumed they are just push-on like most others. They don't actually go into the slots so there's a manufacturing error on those.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 06:51:02 pm
content: Quote from: SteveyG on May 07, 2020, 06:20:25 pmThey don't have such big motor to push all that 200l/min through the hose. I've seen a Russian guy on quite old youtube video about DE version complaining exactly about it rapidly spinning up when cooling. Those who have laptops with fans rapidly turning on at high speed likely won't agree with you too.Quotemine is within 5 degrees C at any temperature. You better show your thermocouple and how you use it. I've seen plenty of people who have no idea what they are doing when measuring temperature, even people in effing analytical laboratories. So it's my major suspicion why your measurements are so off. Measurement dependence from air speed confirms this suspicion.QuoteJamicon is fine. Very old company with decent enough caps. Their LOW ESR caps might be not the best in the wild but their general purpose caps have no issues whatsoever. As what written on Badcaps is mostly nonsense based on 1 mention of anecdotal evidence. Even Nichicon and Nippon chemi-con did not get scot-free when capacitor plague happened, they produced their share of bulging LOW ESR stuff.QuoteDid you look inside the heater? I guess no.QuoteWhat a surprise. 220V (not 230V) station for Chinese market only has Chinese CCC certification but no CE. Buy station for European market and it will be the same inside but with CE marking. Also it will have different heater for slightly higher voltage.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 07:10:17 pm
content: Quote from: SteveyG on May 07, 2020, 06:20:25 pmAre they original nozzles? Hard to believe all 3 are wrong.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 07:56:25 pm
content: 8 yo station, never calibrated.

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 08:22:47 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on May 07, 2020, 07:10:17 pmTo be honest, I only tried the large nozzle as I tend to find that's the size I tend to use the most.I thought I'd captured the nozzle in the corner of the picture, but I must have reframed it at some point. Basically, I stuffed the thermocouple right up the nozzle, so it should be giving a decent reading. I'm not sure why it was so far out, but after calibrating it looks a bit better. Oddly, even at 500°C, it doesn't get there but the AC waveform shows the heater is not at 100%Good points though, thanks for your thoughts

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 08:57:57 pm
content: Quote from: SteveyG on May 07, 2020, 08:22:47 pmYou still did not say what type of thermocouple it was. IMHO it should have been in spec and you made it out of spec by changing calibration. If it's something like on the picture below, you will not get proper reading. To get correct reading, it should be unsheathed type like on my picture, slightly inserted into the nozzle, and junction should not touch nozzle walls since they are cooled by ambient air from other side. It's better to set higher airflow since it will be more forgiving against blunders.

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 09:06:02 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on May 07, 2020, 08:57:57 pmIt's the one that comes with the Fluke 28. Either way, trying it a whole load of different ways and it was a long way out. I don't think it was anything to do with the measurement - comparing total power at similar airflow rates on other hot air stations it is inconsistent with the others.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 09:09:02 pm
content: Quote from: SteveyG on May 07, 2020, 09:06:02 pmWell, strange. You might simply got a lemon.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 09:18:52 pm
content: I suggest doing additional test with solder wire, just in case. Take some thin solder wire, like 0.6 mm or below. Set temperature 20oC above it's melting point and airflow to 100l/min or more. Then stick solder wire by around 1-1.5 cm into the nozzle. If solder wire melts/breaks off in 5-20 seconds, actual temperature should have been high enough. not like on your video. As of consistency with other stations, if they were Chinese stations, including BEST, I would not trust their consistency. They systematically are calibrated to significantly exceed set temperature to look more powerful than they actually are.

author: Sapsford55
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 10, 2020, 08:37:36 pm
content: HiI have the Quick 881D which appears the same as the 861X 1300W 856D powerdrive board v2.8 22/5/15I posted this thread and copied it here to see if anybody can help me.does anybody know whether the power board (856D powerdrive V2.is dual voltage? I have acquired a 110v version with the USA plug directly wired and I have searched the internet to see if it's compatible with 220v (label on the case 110v). However, I have seen several teardowns of the 220v version and all the components appear to be the same with the same ratings.I know I should just buy a step-down transformer but at 1300w (and a generous PF of 0.7 for a switchmode power supply) it would require at least a 1875VA transformer and probably bigger that is a meaty and heavy tranny! Whereas if it's just a matter of replacing the plug?If I used an auto-transformer and slowly raised the voltage anybody have any ideas how I analyse the performance to detect failure before it happens! E.g. current draw FET/TRIAC temp etcAny help will be greatThanks