Growing black spot on OLED display.  Burn out?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Bendba
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2016, 11:26:42 am
content: Hi,I recently had a very disappointing experience with a Nikon Coolpix AW130 underwater camera (which kinda ruined a holiday on green island)I bought that camera second hand (sold as never used, which seemed to be genuine) and it has been working flawlessly for a few months even though the quality of the photos isn't exceptional.Last week, while on holiday, the top right corner of the screen started turning yellow and soon after, a black mark appeared in the corner. It has been growing rapidly, the image turning yellow then sort of fading to a yellowish light and then black, similarly to a pierced lcd display degenerates, except that according to the specs, that camera has an OLED display. (Note that at that point, the camera hadn't been underwater yet and it hasn't been hit. Though it traveled in two airplanes to get from home to Cairns but it was in the carry on baggage) except for that, the rest of the camera keeps on working properly, but you cannot change the settings or actually see what you are pointing at or focusing on (SLR always wins but an underwater one is over budget)I first suspected that the manufacturer would have actually used a lcd display instead and the the edge wouldn't have been glued properly.I contacted Nikon to get a quote on a screen replacement. They refuse to send spare parts and refuse to give me even an idea of the cost of a repair before I send it for inspection and pay a non refundable fee.So I opened the camera to see if I could find a replacement display myself but even google has never heard of the displays reference (AMS298BM01)Having opened the camera confirmed that it wasn't a LCD but I couldn't tell exactly if it is really an OLED or some sort of plasma.I eventually found a local shop who would agree to have a quick look at it. I've been told that I'd probably cost me $200 (+) to get it repaired. That is if the Nikon accredited tech even agree to do it seen I've already opened the camera. I though stuff Nikon I'm not spending $200 on a $300 camera.I've attached a photo of the display removed from the camera.- the dark piece is a piece of glass that could have with a thin conductive layer that was connected to the ribbon cable, not quite sure but it felt like it was attached when I pulled it apart. no polarizing film. The darkness comes from a plastic film on the outside of the glass (I'm guessing some anti glare or anti reflection film)- there seem to be a small bead of glue all the way around the edge but the bead wasn't attached on the top right corner for about 1/3 of the width and 1/2 the hight. The rest came undone very easily.- the other rectangle is a piece of glass with all the pixels. It may be hard to see on the photo but the top and bottom left corners are a bit blue. those area are the only ones that were still displaying a faint image.All the cracks in the glass come from me pulling the display of the double sided tape holding it in the camera.So, here are finally the questions.Is that an actual OLED display?What would have been the failure? Would the display (pixels) react and die if exposed to the air (which would have happened seen the glue bead was broken?)Any chance someone would know where to find a replacement?Is there any chance the pinout could be some kind of standard and that I could connect another display?Why is Nikon being so greedy and unhelpful? (Rhetorical question)Thanks for your time.

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2016, 12:01:23 pm
content: Quote from: Bendba on October 26, 2016, 11:26:42 amHard to tell from the pictures, but if there wasn't any backlight assembly behind the display, it is most likely a OLED display.QuoteA discoloured or dark spot, often a circle, especially at the edge is a typical failure mode for OLEDs when water/moisture finds its way into the display. I have seen this several times. OLEDs don't like water. If the sealing around the display isn't perfekt, moisture will get in and destroy the display.I have seen many OLEDs being damaged during shipping.QuoteOLEDs aren't compatible with LCDs. It looks like the display has a build in controller. So unless you find the exact type I doubt anything else will work.

author: Bendba
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2016, 03:49:49 pm
content: Hi.Thanks for thé answer.There is definitely no backlight, the whole display is about 1.7mm thick. I'm not really up to date with display technologies (I'm up to crt, vfd, early plasma, lcd) and don't know if there id's some sort of low potential plasma display or things like that.Could the low pressure in the plane have caused the rupture of the glue bead? Or is that just bad luck? (I'm 3 months late for a warranty claim and Nikon doesn't accept warranty transfer anyway)I can't see anyone who sell that display, there are plenty of replacement lcd's for other model cameras but oled are not really out there.And yes, there is definitely a built in controller at the base of the display.Any chance someone recognises the manufacturer's logo? Looks like a LF to me.That might help even though I'm guessing the manufacturer probably has an exclusivity contract with nikon.

author: jdraughn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2016, 04:01:34 pm
content: They are "Organic" displays, maybe it's some kind of life form.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2016, 02:13:40 am
content: Those markings on the FPC are only to do with the manufacturer and the material: BHF-102GS ishttp://iq.ul.com/pwb/cert.aspx?ULID=101033536(Does anyone recognise the stylised "LF" or "UF" or whatever that logo is? I've seen it a few times before but can't identify what company it is.)The actual part number of the display is dot-matrix-printed near the part of the FPC that you tore off.

author: Bendba
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2016, 02:46:49 am
content: Quote from: amyk on October 27, 2016, 02:13:40 amI did write those for matrix printed numbers before cutting the ribbon. Here they are:AMS298BM01-0 XYZDH41 (or XYZDM41)JA141214150But I didn't get lucky searching them either. Maybe I did look at the right place.Quote from: blueskull on October 27, 2016, 02:32:41 amIt's definitely not a LCD display. There is no polariser film (checked against another linear polariser) I believe it is more likely an anti glare/reflection film. Plus there is no backlight and you can clearly see a metallic looking array structure on the bottom part.The mark is not a double arrow. and the little circle on the right looks more like the registered trademark symbol to me and it is followed by a little capital "G"

author: daveshah
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 27, 2016, 01:25:35 pm
content: Sounds like a better source has been found but if anyone is curious as to what it is AMS298BM01 sounds like a standard Samsung OLED part number, the 298 meaning 2.98" diagonal. I believe the Galaxy Note panels have part numbers like AMS568AT01 for example.

author: azer
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2016, 02:03:53 pm
content: The black dots were common problems for early oleds. It's a manufacturing defect so not much you can do.http://www.oled-info.com/holst-centre-and-rolic-technology-partner-thin-film-flexible-oled-barrier-technologyhttp://jes.ecsdl.org/content/154/2/J65.full

author: Bendba
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2016, 01:48:21 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on October 27, 2016, 02:50:47 amThanks a lot. Unfortunately for me, I might have to wait for the price of that part to come down a bit. I can justify spending half the price of the camera on a single part that, lucky as I am, might fail again.Quote from: daveshah on October 27, 2016, 01:25:35 pmQuite possible, I did actually notice some IC's that where from Samsung on the main circuit board.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 29, 2016, 02:00:45 pm
content: Quote from: Bendba on October 29, 2016, 01:48:21 pmIt won't come down by any significant amount. And if you think that $66 + agent fees to get it from China for OLED is very expensive, then you are clueless.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 29, 2016, 02:07:51 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on October 27, 2016, 02:13:40 amhttp://www.trademarkia.com/leadfree-78294601.htmlThat means samsung. As there are no cheap cloned 3rd party OLED displays, replacements won't be cheap.

author: Bendba
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2016, 02:12:27 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on October 29, 2016, 02:00:45 pmThanks for calling me clueless.I'm first to say that the price we pay for most things doesn't reflect the real value of it. ($360 for optics + 16 Mpixel sensor + processor + display + waterproofing + making money out of it? I wouldn't get up to make it)There are just things though that one can not afford.I must have stuff up my currency conversion as I found it was $175. Which, I believe would still have been a reasonable price for that sort of technology now that I read about it. I just couldn't afford it. $66 sounds much better

author: ChristopherN
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 29, 2016, 05:02:48 pm
content: You could try to get a defective one on eBay or another platform. Those cameras sell for around 30€ broken, most sellers show the screen in their photos.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2016, 10:58:23 pm
content: Quote from: ChristopherN on October 29, 2016, 05:02:48 pmConsidering what the OP did to it trying to remove it, that might not be so easy to do.

author: Bendba
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2016, 11:02:35 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on October 29, 2016, 10:58:23 pmThat wouldn't be a problem, it's mounted on a metal bracket, I can just swap the whole assembly. I just didn't take care of the other one because it was dead anyway.I do keep an eye on Internet for a defective unit, haven't had any luck yet.