hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Clearing the data for statistics programmatically in a DM3058 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Tony_G
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 04:35:44 pm
content: Hi All,I have to be missing something because I can't for the life of me work out how to clear the data that Average uses on the DM3058.The scenario is that I have the meter configured over GPIB for 5 readings every trigger and averaging turned on. I can trigger and get the readings but the only way I can see to clear the data so that the average is only over the 5 readings per trigger is to turn off averaging and then turn it back on. There has to be a better/more appropriate way than this.Can anyone point out what I'm missing?Thanks,TonyG

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 05:39:41 pm
content: You don't say whether you are using RIGOL or AGILENT command modes.Assuming RIGOL mode::CALC:FUNC AVERAGEor:CALC:FUNC TOTALcan both be used to turn on the average statistics function. Note this will also zero any count.:CALC:STAT:AVERAGE?will return the current average.You don't have to turn off averaging to reset it, just reissue one of the above:CALC:FUNCcommands before you trigger and take each reading.

author: Tony_G
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 08:57:31 pm
content: Thanks.Will give that a try.TonyG

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 11:53:28 pm
content: Best stick to CMDSET RIGOL because the CMDSET AGILENT mode is a total dogs dinner. I actually only use it for some totally undocumented stuff, like reading the cold-junction temperature sensor, which even RIGOL themselves have never managed to do with their own PC software! Go figure!
Hantek 6204BC 4CH 1Gs/s 200MHz BW - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: janengelbrecht
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2016, 11:24:46 am
content: I´m kinda wondering if this is any good ? Anyone know it ?http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hantek-6204BC-USB-Digital-Storage-Oscilloscope-200MHz-Bandwidth-4Ch-1GSa-s-O2V6-/381739185524?tfrom=172149342823&tpos=top&ttype=price&talgo=undefinedIts specs seems to be: 1GS/s , 200MHz Analogue BW, 4 Channels, Windows Software (Win 7,8,10), Input Sensitivity : 2mV/div?10V/div,Time Base Range: 2ns/div-1000s/div (1-2-4 sequences)http://www.hantek.com/en/ProductDetail_2_9163.htmlReview (?):http://www.hantek.org/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=6994Price seems okay if...and only if....software is any good and specs are for real ?
floppy drive replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: radhaz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 02:54:39 pm
content: http://www.ssd.gb.com/index.php/products/floppyflash/floppyflash-detail

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 04:19:40 pm
content: Shame they didn't tack an SD slot on as well.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 05:34:07 pm
content: Any idea on pricing???

author: kfitch42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 05:46:48 pm
content: On ebay or amazon similar things run in the $20-30 range. Usually they have a USB port on the front so you can stick "thumb" drive or SD card reader on there if you want.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 06:46:28 pm
content: Quote from: kfitch42 on September 01, 2016, 05:46:48 pmThe floppy drive replacements from Ebay/Amazon is nothing like the link above. My experience with the devices found on Ebay is bad. Still if the price is high I rather keep using disks.

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2016, 10:44:07 pm
content: this is probably what your looking for.http://hxc2001.free.fr/floppy_drive_emulator/

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2016, 11:26:01 pm
content: Quote from: stj on September 02, 2016, 10:44:07 pmUnfortunately this one used images and no direct file transfer.
Protecting a signal / function / tracking generator from short circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 10:26:37 am
content: According to the operators manual for my HP 33120 signal generator the output is short circuit protected for < 1 minute. No details in the manual regarding protection of the tracking generator in my SSA3000x.When testing passive filters, the circuit can be a short circuit either at resonance or at one end of a LPF or HPF.Even if the generator is adequately protected, the loading as the frequency approaches the short circuit frequency complicates evaluating frequency response, and if the generator is not adequately protected the output stage may well be damaged.Thoughts and comments welcome

author: Performa01
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 01:44:03 pm
content: Signal generators with a maximum output power >0dBm are usually protected. The better ones will just switch the output off as soon as an overload condition is detected.Tracking generators normally don’t provide an output power >0dBm. At such low signal levels, a dedicated overload protection is not required.Whenever you deal with circuits that don’t maintain a well defined characteristic impedance across the entire measurement bandwidth, i.e. any kind of filters or selective impedance transformation networks, you have an interfacing problem in general. These circuits rely on a broadband termination with their characteristic impedance, while they themselves don’t provide one. This is also why two such circuits, e.g. filters, cannot be cascaded straight away.The usual approach in the lab is to use attenuators at the ports of a narrowband circuit in order to maintain a reasonable return loss over the entire frequency range. So for a filter, its input/output should be connected to the test equipment via attenuators of at some 6dB (more is always better of course).The attenuators would also prevent a signal generator output to be shorted. But then again, most signal generators have built-in attenuators, that would also protect the output amplifier as long as the output power is limited to 6~10dB below maximum.
Kikusui 5121A Alignment Scope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: kawandaio
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 02, 2016, 02:19:40 am
content: We have been clearing a relatives outbuildings and stumbled across 2 Kikusui 5121A Alignment Scope's (see the attached image) we know that's what they are as it says it on the front, but that's all we know about them.Would anyone be able to shed any light onto what they where used for? and are they basically just an oscilloscope or will they only function for a specific purpose? I don't wanna just go using one to probe stuff and have anything bad happen coz it's not intended as an ordinary scope

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2016, 04:36:08 am
content: It's not an ordinary scope.It's a general purpose display, with very low bandwidth (10kHz).Here's the operator's manual:http://www.kikusui.co.jp/kiku_manuals/NUMERIC/5121A_E.pdf
More dumpster diving - Fluke 27 bad rotary switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Jeff_Birt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 03:45:17 pm
content: I got in early today and our custodian cam into the shop with three Multimeter he found in the trash. There were two Korean made cheap meters, one of which had a label on it that said "Inaccurate".Both of the cheapo meters worked with a fresh battery and the one labeled "Inaccurate" had the battery leads smashed in the case and pressed up against the 10A current shunt! The Fluke 27 was dead and the case askew making me think it had been dropped. Upon taking the cover of it was clear someone had been into it and broken the case O-ring trying to put it back together. After taking the RF shielding off the problem was evident, the selector switch had been destroyed. I'm not sure how that would have happened, perhaps someone took it apart and did not line up the switch position with the switch hand position and applied to much 'percussive maintenance'?Just wondering if anyone has had one of these rotary switches self destruct like this. I found the service manual online just now so maybe we can jumper the right contacts to see if it at least powers up. Sad to see it just pitched in the trash though

author: Rbastler
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 04:52:24 pm
content: The Fluke 25 I bought had also bend contacts on the range switch. I don't know why but I put them back in the right position and it works againI don't think mine was dropped or smashed against something. The case and other interior parts looked fine.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 05:26:11 pm
content: Quote from: Jeff_Birt on September 01, 2016, 03:45:17 pmYes, I have seen a thread on this.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-70-series-(old-square-type)-switch/As you surmised, someone probably put the switch back mis-aligned and mangled it. If you ask Excavatoree nicely and offer to pay shipping, he may have a spare switch from his collection of Fluke 27s that have a dead main IC. Thus the reason for alternating your title header, Excavatoree is more likely to see this posting.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/anyone-want-to-challenge-excavatoree-and-his-staircase-photo-with-24-fluke-27s/?all

author: Jeff_Birt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 05:47:57 pm
content: Thanks for the links. Since this is university property and we have to abide by state purchasing laws it won't be possible to send it to other than a service center, i.e. a company not an individual. It looks like the switch can be had form Fluke though. Too bad someone had to destroy it, the ruined the switch, the case O-ring and one of the four case screws (and O-ring) is missing.
Rohde & Schwarz URV55 Millivoltmeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Bicurico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2016, 10:20:42 pm
content: Hi,What is your opinion on this device:https://www.rohde-schwarz.com/us/product/urv55-productstartpage_63493-8503.htmlWhat would be a reasonable (cheap) price for a second hand unit without any probe?What would be a reasonable (cheap) price for a second hand insertion unit ("Durchgangskopf") suitable for this meter?How can I quickly make sure it is working OK?Are there known issues, problems or calibration requirements?I am interested in this device to measure the total power across a frequency range prior to hooking up the tested cable to a sentive device like a spectrum analyzer.Would that make sense?Sorry for these noob questions - I feel a bit silly asking this, but then better ask and learn than remain stupid.Thanks!

author: Performa01
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 08:13:37 am
content: The URV55 is an RF millivolt/power meter. Older models, like NRVS, URV35, URV4, URV5 usually sell for approximately 500 to 1500 bucks, depending on exact model and conditions. Mating sensors cost about 300~800 bucks, depending on their special capabilities.Even though a completely different technical approach, the sensor input requirements (and restrictions) are quite similar to an SA. The max. input power is usually around 100mW/+20dBm.These meters/sensors are meant for high accuracy and sensitivity, as well as wide bandwidth and dynamic range.Long story short, you cannot use such an instrument to measure high powers directly. You need a 30dB attenuator or coupler with the required power handling capability to make any high power signal fit the instrument. Just the same as you would for the SA, so nothing’s gained.In other words, a 30dB power attenuator or coupler allows you to check the signal with the SA itself and any URV or NRVS would be redundant.

author: Bicurico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 11:16:39 am
content: Thanks for your information.I will see how the eBay auction goes. I could get the URV55 at a good price, but it lacks the mating sensor, which will cost more than the meter itself...While there is nor real need for me to have this device, I do enjoy having my stock of test equipment and R&S is always a nice brand to own.(I know it is silly, but as some like to collect stamps, I like to collect test equipment - but occasionally I get to use them and then it totally pays off owning them).Regards

author: Performa01
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 01:17:09 pm
content: I fully understand your desire - the R&S power meters are very nice devices for sure - and more accurate and much wider bandwidth (up to at least 40GHz, depending on the sensor) than most SAs.Still a sensor is not only expensive, but also as sensitive to destruction due to overload as any SA input.
Is this normal? Cracked probe connector new in box! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: blueskull
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 30, 2016, 06:41:48 pm
content: Attached is a single pin of my MSOX6004A's logic probe. Among all 16 LA channels, at least 5 have cracked connector housing.Is that normal? Or just I got the bad luck?Sorry for the rolling shutter. I should have used a better light source.

author: LA7SJA
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2016, 06:25:39 am
content: This is not normal, at least not on any of my Keysight probes (or any other brand for that matter).Maybe Keysight_DanielBogdanoff can answer this question.Johan-Fredrik

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2016, 07:38:48 am
content: Quote from: blueskull on August 30, 2016, 06:41:48 pmOf course not.

author: Assafl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 05:45:50 am
content: Oh Oh - Somebody at Agilent forgot the plasticizer
10 MHz Reference Oscillator Calibration of RIGOL DSA1030A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: cidak
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 30, 2016, 10:32:09 pm
content: Goodmorning everyone,I have found the problem that the internal reference oscillator 10 MHZ in DSA1030A / TG works in frequency 3,8Hz below.Does anyone know the access procedure to the internal reference oscillator 10 MHz calibration of DSA1030A.I looked for news in the Forum, but I found instructions for the procedure only DSA815 model.Thanks in advance, to those who want to be of help to the DSA1030 ownersThank you.

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2016, 07:37:11 am
content: Quote from: cidak on August 30, 2016, 10:32:09 pm3.8Hz on a 10MHz is a 0.38 PPM... Spec for DSA is max 3 PPM per year and max 3PPM per °C.....So your DSA is 10 times better than spec.....So no calibration needed... If you want better long term stability, you'll have to buy better external 10 MHz reference (GPS disciplined for instance) and connect it to REF IN on the analyser..
Agilent 6812A upgrade to 6812B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: jgorsk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2016, 08:33:35 am
content: Hi,Agilent used to offer the 14812A Upgrade 6812A to a RTS-ready 6812B. They don't do that anymore.Does anyone know what that was exactly, was it just the memory chip swap or were there hardware changesinvolved?Is an upgrade from the 6812A to the regular 6812B possible by upgrading the firmware?Does anyone has the 6812B firmware?Modify message
Questions about Appa 301 Multimeter (speed and diode test) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Falkra
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2016, 09:49:32 am
content: Hello everyone.I recently acquired an APPA 301 Multimeter and I am testing it.Everything looks ok but I have two questions, because I'm not sure, as it was sold as not working/for spares.The ohms reading is slow, compared to other DMMs I have : it needs several seconds when autochanging ranges. then I get a correct reading (tested on 100 ohms 100W resistors, first one I found laying around). Is this normal ?When selecting the Diode test, I get "2,985V" with leads connected to the multimeter, but they are not probing anything. Shouldn't it display something else ?Shorting the leads reads 0.035V after some seconds. Then, with a diode (I tested with a LED), the values are OK.Thanks in advance.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2016, 04:53:51 am
content: Quote from: Falkra on August 29, 2016, 09:49:32 amAPPA tech makes meters for others sold under different brand names. Seehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/appa-(appatech)-instruments/Here is a variation of the 301 sold as the ISO-tech IDM 305https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/iso-tech-305-dmm-(under-the-hood)/QuoteI have a Tektronix DM252 which is an APPA 105. Seehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/iso-tech-(appa)-idm105-dmm/On mine, ohms auto ranging takes 5 seconds before reaching its final correct value.QuoteOn mine, it shows 2.694 in diode mode with no probes attached. This is the battery voltage of the two AAA cells. Most meters show 0L or open circuit, but APPA just shows the battery voltage. With probes shorted, I get 0.000 in diode mode.Personally, I think APPA makes decent meters with good input protection. There are some things I don't like about it, but I got my DM252 for $10 USD, so I can't really complain too much.

author: Falkra
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2016, 07:17:40 am
content: Thank you very much, retiredcaps.Now I'm pretty sure my multimeter is ok. It needs 5 seconds, like yours, while autoranging.I didn't think (silly me) about the batteries. But the measurement must be done after some regulation, because this dmm is powered by a 9V battery, so I wasn't thinking this could be some battery voltage.Thanks again ! Like you, I also think it is a decent piece of equipment.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2016, 09:35:59 pm
content: Quote from: Falkra on August 30, 2016, 07:17:40 amOn mine, I'm almost certain it is just battery voltage. Currently, I have weak 1.1V AAA cells in the DM252 and the diode voltage shows something like 2.234. I can barely read it because the lcd is so dim with weak batteries. Even with freshly charged Eneloops ni-mh cells, the lcd contrast is not the best. Fresh 1.6V alkaline batteries give best contrast.
Heathkit Impedance Bridge IB 2A versus Genrad 1650 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: jcrubin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2016, 12:38:29 pm
content: In some of my previous threads I document the restoration of a Heathkit IB-2A where in doing the restoration, the .5% tolerance components were replaced with .1%.The link for that thread can be seen herehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/heathkit-ib-2a-initial-inspection-and-test/msg1007692/#msg1007692after doing so, The IB-2A was put toe-to-toe against the GENRAD, General Radio 1650 over a multitude of tests to see how well it did. The testing was chronicled in the video below, as well as the second video which includes one extra test.If you find these videos interesting, subscribe, so that i have an idea as to the number of people of common interest.
Serial decode with MSOX3024T Mixed Signal Oscilloscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: kaevee
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2016, 04:27:01 pm
content: Hi,When I was evaluating MSOX3024T (InfiniiVision 3000T X-Series) Mixed Signal Oscilloscope last year, I read somewhere that one cannot do protocol decode on digital channels. The protocol decode was working only on analogue channels. I thought it was counter intuitive and decided not to buy. I don't see that restriction anywhere in current datasheets or manual.Can someone confirm whether one can use digital channels for protocol decode on MSOX3024T Mixed Signal Oscilloscope?Thanks,Venkat

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2016, 05:09:25 pm
content: Almost certain that only applies to the msox2000 series, not the 3000. I have an MSO3054A and it has no problem decoding on digital channels.

author: Keysight DanielBogdanoff
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2016, 05:47:52 pm
content: The 2000 X-Series cannot do decoding and display digital channels at the same time because there's only one MegaZoom ASIC. When released, the 2000 X-Series didn't have any protocol decoding, but we added it later (hence the restrictions).The 3000 X-Series and up CAN do both decode and display digital channels simultaneously because it has two ASICs that work in tandem.-Daniel

author: kaevee
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2016, 11:06:05 pm
content: Quote from: Howardlong on August 29, 2016, 05:09:25 pmQuote from: Keysight_DanielBogdanoff on August 29, 2016, 05:47:52 pmThank you very much for clarification. I was wrong all this time.In fact, when I was exploring to buy 2000 X-Series, I came across the digital channel decode issue. I decided to buy 3000T X-Series instead and put it on hold until I can fund. I could recollect after reading the message from Daniel.Venkat
Current clamp advise  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: MarkoAnte
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2016, 12:50:23 pm
content: Hi,I'm looking for a decent current clamp. I look at new Rigol and Keysight models, but they are all so expansive. I'm looking for dc- a couple of 100 KHz in the range of a couple 10 of A. Eg. RP1001C or RP1002C (dc - 300Khz or dc - 1Mhz 100A).Are there any good alternatives that anybody have used that are not that expansive?I got a P6303 clamp with AM 503 but it does not look to work well. I will open another post just for that. But that clamp goes to 25MHz and the price is 500 for it (compared to the 830 for RP1001C). What are popular options if I'm looking for used ones?Best regards,Marko

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2016, 01:12:27 pm
content: I have a CP-05A (4A or 40A 200kHz) from Ebay (around $120) and it works OK although I want to mod it so it uses a 9V mains adapter instead of a battery. If you stay in the lower couple of hundred kHz region then you can get away with a hall sensor only current clamp which is considerably easier to construct and thus cheaper.
Keithley 2000: limit settings lost when switched off - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: carl_lab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 10:24:55 am
content: Is this behavior normal?Every time I switch the K2000 on, limit settings I set before, are overwritten by Hi:+1.000000 and Lo:-1.000000

author: PartialDischarge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 10:32:30 am
content: My K2000 does the same, maybe its normal

author: carl_lab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 11:00:12 am
content: OK, thank you!Poor design anyway...BTW: Can I switch an external relay by the limit settings?

author: RobK_NL
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 12:25:33 pm
content: Ehm, youdidsave those settings, didn't you?

author: PartialDischarge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 01:09:26 pm
content: Quote from: RobK_NL on August 28, 2016, 12:25:33 pmRobK is right, hit SAVE and all is stored and back when you power up again

author: carl_lab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 03:04:05 pm
content: Oh... I did not save...Any idea for the relay issue?
Daily Power ON/OFF Operation of Bench DMM - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: 1lulu2
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 01:05:49 am
content: I just acquired two Keysight 34465A DMMs for my lab bench, and I am wondering should I leave them on all the time, or turn them off at the end of the day. I know the DMMs have to run for about an hour to get accurate measurements. Also, when I start my day, I would like to the DMMs ready to go, and not wait for an hour, etc. Or, is this personal preference? Any thoughts?lulu

author: Faith
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 03:42:01 am
content: I have the same DMM and I pretty much switch it off whenever I'm not using it because I find that it reaches sufficient stability within 5-10 minutes of uptime.This however is easy for you to test and draw your own conclusions.Just have a source that's already been running for some time and then hook your DMM up to it and see for yourself whether or not its initial drift is acceptable for the work you're doing.

author: 1lulu2
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 05:55:07 am
content: Faith,Thanks for the input. Also, I was wondering since the 34465As are new, do I need to burn them in for a period of time to make sure they won't fail before I can exchange them for a new unit(s) when my 30 day return is up? I rather do that than make a claim under warranty and get refurbish unit(s). Has anyone experience issues with 34465A?One more thing, I purchased a Rigol DP832A power supply, and it was DOA which I returned. I got the DP832A because of its added functionality, and price point rather than a Keysight power supply. Anyone recommend a Keysight pwer supply replacement equivalent to a DP832A?lulu

author: Faith
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 06:23:30 am
content: I don't actually recall reading of any major issues with the 3446x Series of DMM's. I wouldn't worry too much. The 34465A is basically an improved revision of the 34461A which has been around for over three years now.I've never used a HPAK power supply before so I can't comment there. But they seem mostly well regarded.
service  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: GEuser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 06:08:14 pm
content: Q

author: radhaz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 03:07:15 am
content: I like the fact that you repaired a DIGItech ANALOG meter. Nice solution with the chip resistor.
HIOKI 3222 open up! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: MT
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2016, 10:20:11 pm
content: 5digit LED, mid 1980'ish, GPIB,.

author: radhaz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 02:22:02 am
content: Nice, thanks for the nudies~
Thermocouple ID - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Jwalling
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 24, 2016, 03:47:32 pm
content: Anybody able to ID this thermocouple model/manufacturer? I think its a K type. Only marking is on the connector itself: 6235Please, and thank you.

author: Bill158
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2016, 04:33:56 pm
content: This probe looks exactly like a FLUKE 80PK-4A Air Probe that I have. Mine is a type "K" and I believe that the "K" in the model number "80PK" tells us that. It is primarily used to measure air temps including in duct work and free air. Not for immersion in liquids. It is a regular type "K" bead thermocouple enclosed in a protective slotted cover.Bill

author: meeder
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2016, 04:37:25 pm
content: Assuming that the ANSI/ASTM colour coding is used it is a type-K thermocouple.

author: Jwalling
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 24, 2016, 05:42:59 pm
content: Quote from: Bill158 on August 24, 2016, 04:33:56 pmThanks Bill. Odd that this one has no Fluke markings, perhaps it may be a clone/knock-off. Does yours have any such markings by any chance?

author: Bill158
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2016, 08:50:06 pm
content: No, mine does not have any markings on it also and I bought it new, in a blister pack that was from FLUKE. Strange that they don't mark these but I have other models for different purposes that don't have any model or mfg. marking on them either. But the small pipe clamp thermocouple that I have does have a brand and model molded into the plastic. But this may be something that FLUKE made much later on.But good point about the ANSI/ASTM color of the plug. I had forgotten about that.I think you have a totally genuine FLUKE probe there. No knock off would be that well made and look exactly the same right down to ribs and strain reliefs.Bill

author: meeder
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2016, 09:58:18 pm
content: http://www.omega.com/temperature/pdf/tc_colorcodes.pdf
RF Attenuator  Old HP 355 vs. JFW rotary - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2016, 10:51:05 pm
content: Lot's of these on ebay, is one preferable to the other?Most of the HP's look long in the tooth, while many of the JFW's look new

author: G0HZU
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2016, 11:22:15 pm
content: I'm not sure how many variants there are of the JFW attenuators but I have a JFW 50DR (rotary) stepped attenuator here that covers 0 to 50dB in 1dB steps.I think it's rated to 1GHz and there's no way that I would swap it for the HP 355. This JFW attenuator works very well with low VSWR and shows good performance in terms of accuracy and insertion loss over a wide frequency range.I've also got a couple of really old R&S DPU 50 ohm attenuators here. These are 0 to 140dB in 1dB steps and are rated to 2GHz. But these ancient attenuators are huge and very heavy and clunky to operate! The performance is extremely good. At least as good as the JFW and way ahead of the HP355. But they are just too big and clunky for everyday use. I believe that R&S also produced a 75 ohm variant of this attenuator.

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2016, 01:04:12 am
content: Thanks for your comments, I ordered a JFW
Hantek 6022BE installation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: francoisphil
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 01:20:02 am
content: Hi , i am having trouble with my hantek usb oscilloscope .It has been working on 3 computers on windows 7-32 and 64, and now works only on one , and one specific usb port.the problem is that i cant now install the driver.After searching for people having the same problem , i found many, but no solution...When i try on my laptop with windows 7-32 , i have "unknown device" , with the details:USB\VID_04B4&PID_8613REV_001USB\VID_04B4&PID_8613Could you help me,Thank you.

author: Techoisseur
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2016, 02:20:40 pm
content: Hi francoisphil,I believe that you may have the wrong drivers loaded.On my Windows 10 32-bit PC, I am seeing the following Hardware IDs in Device Manager for the Hantek6022BE USB device (under Details Tab):Hantek6022BE DRIVER 2 PropertiesUSB\VID_04B5&PID_6022&REV_0000USB\VID_04B5&PID_6022Windows 7 32-bit Hardware IDs should be similar.Try downloading the latest Software & Drivers for the 6022BE from the Hantek site (you may need to register your device there first).Uninstall your existing software and install the latest version (v1.05).If Unknown Device appears in Device Manager, select "Update Driver" under the Driver tab, and navigate to the folder containing the Hantek6022BE.inf file for the latest Driver files.See also my reply #933 on the Re: Hantek 6022BE 20MHz USB DSO thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hantek-6022be-20mhz-usb-dso/msg996996/#msg996996I hope this helps.
anyone have Keithley Model 210 Electrometer manual - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Johnny10
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2016, 02:23:17 am
content: Just picked up one of these today.Info is almost non-existent.1950's era.

author: Johnny10
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2016, 02:47:11 am
content: inside

author: radhaz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2016, 03:37:26 am
content: Interesting beast, does it work?

author: Johnny10
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2016, 11:06:52 am
content: I haven't plugged it in yet.Wanted to read about operation first.Have found a paper copy which I made an offer on.Think I will look at the battery version I believe there is online manual for that unit.The 610C looks similar only is solid state.This unit is all tubes.And big transformer!Now I see a 610B Tube Model.
Cheap, broadband antenna for SA to pickup local radio AM, FM, SW etc. on SA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2016, 07:53:25 pm
content: There are plenty of low cost (read ebay) 2.4GHz Wi-Fi type antennas available, however I don't imagine these would work very well at commercial AM or FM radio frequencies. I just want something small and inexpensive to try out the demod features on a Siglent spectrum analyzer.Something with an SMA connector preferably.Suggestions welcome.

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 23, 2016, 08:04:29 pm
content: The cheapest antenna you'll find(other then a piece of wire) is probably a generic telescopic whip with a BNC connector on it. ebay item # 152100569705 is an example of that. You can look for something similar with a right angle connection and an SMA connector.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2016, 08:08:27 pm
content: Normal FM radio is easy: a piece of wire around 75cm (IIRC) should do. For AM you probably need a loop or rod antenna but I don't think I ever listened to an AM radio station.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2016, 08:49:25 pm
content: Just a length of wire in your shack should work, when I tried with my SSA3032X just a short length held in my hand worked fine.

author: radhaz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2016, 05:19:09 am
content: I was actually listening to radio stations on my Signal Hound SA with a random wire antenna.

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2016, 12:13:38 pm
content: I ordered the $3 ebay one as well as some adapters.Thank to everyone
Mastech MS5308 DC Supply.  "Beating a dead horse" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: GEE
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 15, 2016, 04:19:11 pm
content: Hi folks,Just bought one of these nifty meters. Of course, they did not send the dc supply with it even though it was pictured with the package.Apparently what I have been reading is that the supply from Mastech is pretty bad. What I am looking for is if someone can take the time to grab their dial calipers and measure the Coaxial dc connector; pin size, shell size, length and if the molded plastic housing is also part of the way it slides in the jack, also that measurement. I don't want to take a chance of taking out the 3.3 volt regulator in the meter or just smoking it in general. I'll just roll my own cable with the connector if I can find the connector at Mouser or Digikey.I'm on batteries at the moment, but I will be putting this through the paces pretty soon and I doubt the batteries will outlast the project.The retailer that sold me the meter stated that they will cover the cost of the supply or what ever I decide to do here.If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.ThanksGEE

author: GEE
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 24, 2016, 12:35:31 am
content: Quick update for the MS5308 DC Plug...The retailer that I purchased the meter from contacted original company and had them drop ship me a new power supply.It looks as if they cut the DC plug cable from the bad supply and very neatly spliced it to the new supply which runs at 12.24 volts.I haven't had a chance to check it with the meter yet. If it smokes the meter, believe me I will post the results.There is a chance that you may be able to find this plug elsewhere with these non standard dimensions.Here are the dimensions of the plug for those of you that ran into the same situation I did.
Remote switching (now with APC ;o) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 21, 2016, 03:33:08 pm
content: As I have most of my equipment behind the desk in a Ikea shelf...powering them on is not always easy...for example if some gear has the power switch in the back (o;Used to do the switching before with those Netio-230C smart switches...but since incorporating them into a scripting language wasn't easy...I switched to the good old AP9212 switches with SNMP/Web management card installed (AP9606).Those switches are more me also a good way to measure power-on/power-off automated scenario...There is even a simple PHP class for controlling them:https://github.com/trendchiller/AP9212But as I like also desktop applications...I started a quick hack in Xojo....though I am bit rusty since I haven't used it for a long time (o;What's missing is getting the outlet names and status via SNMP during startup....but surprisingly the old RealBasic pbsw-SNMP class still works ;-)And yes...some preferences dialog to enter the IP addresses of those switches and create individual tabs for them (as I have currently 5 AP9212)This guy sells plenty of those if you need power switch automation like I do:http://www.ebay.de/sch/gucky74/m.html?item=122092898053Think I would need also some more as 40 outlets are never enough (o;

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 21, 2016, 04:18:05 pm
content: Lots of unoptimized, straight code..but works for reading all outlet descriptions and switch state (o;Haven't tested other builds as Xojo supports OSX, Win and Linux....well...Webapp makes no sense for Xojo (o;

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2016, 02:14:47 pm
content: Where did you get the cables from , the PDU-->Device 230v cables ?Mine didn't include any cablesI'm just using snmpset under linux to control the outlets./Bingo

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 22, 2016, 02:32:12 pm
content: One cable was always included with the Netio-230C....and the other cables I got from the same reseller I got the 230C from...But see that Ebay lists lots of them.....just search for C13 C14 cable (or Kabel ;o)http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kaltgerateverlangerung-1-8-m-Stecker-auf-Buchse-C13-C14-schwarz-NEU-/252508649860
Voltcraft VLP 1303pro - can't find a review anywhere - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: cskilbeck
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 07:23:37 pm
content: Has this been reviewed anywhere? It looks like just what I want, but I need to know if the adjustments are 10 turn pots or digital or whatever - can't seem to get that information anywhere. Anyone?

author: cskilbeck
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 07:30:13 pm
content: This looks like a similar rebadged model which has 10 turn pots, can anyone confirm that the 1303pro is the same?

author: Danielw
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 09:10:49 pm
content: I got VLP-2403, conrad gladly supplies schematics for that series also. It has 10turn pot on voltage.

author: cskilbeck
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2016, 02:25:13 pm
content: Thanks Daniel, just noticed it doesn't have a supply on/off switch, which is a deal breaker - back to the search.
Generic Agilent 1146A 1146B current probes? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Jwalling
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 21, 2016, 04:31:46 pm
content: I've seen these probes quite often, and they look exactly like Fluke and (I think) Teks offerings. Does anyone know who really makes these?Jay

author: Jwalling
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 21, 2016, 05:52:49 pm
content: Here we go.Tektronix A622:http://www.ebay.com/sch/Leads-Probes/181954/i.html?_from=R40&_sac=1&_nkw=a622Generic:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Practical-AC-DC-Current-Probe-Tool-for-Oscilloscope-50mA-10A-1-100A-Peak-9C8I-/281834727567?hash=item419ea8a88f:g:vDgAAOSwo0JWJwNqEven comes with a carrying case if the pictures are any indication, and has the same part number (A622)as the Tek. Who makes that, I wonder? I suspect that whoever it is, is sourcing to Fluke, Agilent, and Tek.Fluke 80I-110S:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-80I-110S-AC-DC-Current-Probe-600V-AC-rms-Voltage-70A-AC-100A-DC-Current-/322216346901?hash=item4b05974515:g:piwAAOSwKfVXLMlEBit pricey, that one!But prices are all over the place:http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.XFluke+80I-110S.TRS0&_nkw=Fluke+80I-110S&_sacat=0

author: korlatos
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2016, 12:10:37 am
content: AEMC (Chauvin Arnoux) is the OEM. Their part number for this probe is SL261.http://www.aemc.com/products/html/appindex.asp?applic=Process%20Control
Tek TDS5052B  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: klaus11
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 06, 2015, 02:08:01 pm
content: Wonder, today is a good option to buy a TDS5052B working properly? (In principle).

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2015, 12:42:13 am
content: They are a quality instrument, and the compatible active probes are cheaply available. But it has a lot of options that second hand may or may not match your needs.

author: Wuerstchenhund
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2015, 05:21:22 am
content: Quote from: klaus11 on May 06, 2015, 02:08:01 pmYes. No. Maybe.Not sure what you mean with "in priciple" but the TDS5000 Series is quite old and pretty sluggish, so unless it's fully working and really cheap I'd rather buy something else.Of course, if it is really cheap you could still buy it and sell it on ebay where people pay silly prices for stuff just because it carries the Tektronix label, and use the money from the sale to buy something better.

author: klaus11
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2015, 02:15:50 pm
content: Quote from: Wuerstchenhund on May 07, 2015, 05:21:22 amIt means, when in my hands verificare real estate.Not TDS5000, TDS5000B is not very old.

author: klaus11
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2015, 02:18:21 pm
content: The oscilloscope is on the way, can you recommend a passive probes ?. Hopefully I'll find some on ebay at good prices.

author: klaus11
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 03, 2015, 06:27:51 pm
content: Finally it came a few weeks ago, I changed the HDD (81GB 7500rpm) for a 120GB Samsung SSD SATA I 850EEVO perfect, and the CD-ROM drive for DVD. All connected to Sata. I'm expecting a speed regulator FanMate2 for the CPU fan, the Intel board does not regulate D865GLC ventilated CPU speed, continuous noise at 4200 rpm is unbearable. Some pictures of a small "touchdown" I did to get familiar with the oscilloscope.

author: zxase258
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2016, 02:02:31 am
content: Hello,I've got a TDS5052B scope several years ago,It works fine these years.But the internal HDD dead last week,and I can't find the recovery CD with win2000 for this scope. I looked the picture of your scope,It seems that we have the same motherboard in it.Could you please offer me a recovery CD image or a HDD backup image? This is my E-mail address:chrispotma@gmail.com.I will appreciate for you! Thanks!
Mystery Sticker? .....  SOLVED by Vgkid and Andy Watson - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: ci11
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 08:05:46 pm
content: Does anyone know where this sticker is from and what it stands for? It is on the front panel of Dave's EDC and some of my stuff.Thanks.

author: Wuerstchenhund
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 08:45:12 pm
content: I can't say for sure but it reminds me on some older HP documents or brochures.

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 09:15:49 pm
content: Could it be to confirm that the unit is calibrated in SI units (Système International d'Unités) ?

author: ci11
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 10:17:00 pm
content: Updated with picture of the sticker from Dave's EDC in his Prema 6047 teardown video in post 1

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 10:51:39 pm
content: The 1990 si tefers to the 1990 si definition of the volt. Being designated by the adoption of the jj volt.

author: ci11
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 11:18:37 pm
content: Quote from: Vgkid on August 19, 2016, 10:51:39 pmEureka! And thank you - would you have any literature reference links handy?

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 11:23:06 pm
content: Quote from: ci11 on August 19, 2016, 11:18:37 pmWikihttps://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volt

author: ci11
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 11:24:47 pm
content: Thank you! I just about got there too....

author: ci11
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 11:31:11 pm
content: Could this then be interpreted to imply that the presence of this sticker serves as a "date stamp" for the instruments' vintage? I can imagine the firework when the standard was adopted, sticker printed and distributed to instrument makers, who gleefully applied to signify compliance. Then money quickly ran out and the sticker no longer appears...Quote from: Vgkid on August 19, 2016, 11:23:06 pm

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 11:42:45 pm
content: I would imagine that the sticker indicates what voltage standard the unit was calibrated to - so all it says is that it was calibrated post 1990. I was thinking that it corresponded to the adoption of the SI definition of the volt, but that was back in 1948, the 1988 JJ standard makes much more sense. There's a bit more about the voltage standard here, about half-way down the page, see the section headed "Electric units: the ampere, volt, ohm":http://www.kayelaby.npl.co.uk/units_and_fundamental_constants/1_1/1_1_2.html

author: ci11
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 11:48:37 pm
content: Aha! Thanks, Andy!This stands completely to reason as the sticker appeared on Dave's EDC, and my sticker is on a Fluke Voltage Standard.Quote from: Andy Watson on August 19, 2016, 11:42:45 pm
Rigol DS2072 averaging behaviour - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Circlotron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2016, 11:55:20 am
content: Say I set the scope to average 256 traces. During the accumulation of these traces, say a square wave, the waveform gets sharper and sharper and the horizontal sections get down to only 1 pixel wide. Then when the 256 count is reached the horizontal sections of the trace are dithered between adjacent pixels! While this may be mathematically correct is just makes the waveform look fuzzy - the very thing you are trying to avoid by using averaging mode. Looks great while the average count is going up, but not as good once the average count is reached. Very annoying! Is this your experience on your scope? Software version 00.01.01 Hardware version 2.0 All options enabled.

author: hendorog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2016, 12:18:04 pm
content: Not in front of my scope (DS4k) so this is just a theory:During averaging the scope takes time to build up a single trace and so it displays what is calculated so far.Once the average is complete then every refresh displays a new trace - albeit with a tiny difference from the previous one due to the averaging. That tiny difference is displayed as 'dithering' based on the persistence setting. If you faff around with that setting you should be able to make the dithering go away and sharpen up the line.