hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Programming Guide for STM32F303C8T6  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Swaroop 21
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2024, 07:00:10 am
content: I have reused a STM32F303C8T6 from an old PCB. This uC is pin Compatible with the STM32F103C8T6 aka the "bluepill" so I replaced the 103F with the 303F and got the Blink Sketch running. As the 303F has inbuilt 12Bit DACs, Comparators and Op Amps, I want to know how to use them with STMCube IDE GUI Configuration. Are there any programming guides on how to use these ? I looked up on YouTube but I didn't find specifically for this model.

author: pcprogrammer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2024, 08:26:10 am
content: Have you checked theST websitefor the manuals?Everything you need to know about the F303 can be found there.

author: dietert1
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2024, 08:50:05 am
content: STM provide:- datasheet- reference manual- HAL library reference manual- errata sheet- firmware libraries- software examples- application notes. e.g. AN3116- community- wikiIn total several thousand pages. The web has lots of answers, e.g. stackoverflow.com. The STM32 CubeMX configuration tool is very useful for a beginner.Regards, Dieter
Programming Hobbywing XRotor Micro 60A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: bootloader9800
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2022, 02:40:58 pm
content: Hi Folks. I am trying to program my Hobbywing XRotor Micro 60A 4in1 ESC. I am having a hard time finding any info online.I did find that I need to give a HIGH throttle and then a LOW throttle to arm the ESC. That seems to be successful from the beeps that the ESC is making. The beeps are confirming that the ESC is indeed powering up.The issue is that the motor doesn't spin as it is being told to spin in the code that is in 'loop'.Can someone tell me how to make this motor spin? Tyvoid setup() {pinMode(9,OUTPUT);analogWrite(9, 240);analogWrite(9, 2);}void loop() {analogWrite(9, 180);delay(1000);analogWrite(9, 64);delay(1000);analogWrite(9, 180);delay(1000);analogWrite(9, 64);delay(1000);}

author: cowana
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2022, 02:52:43 pm
content: From the ESC manual:QuoteYou are currently sending a 0-100% duty cycle PWM signal to the ESC, which isn't one of the supported modes.Have a look at the arduino servo library; this will generate the '1-2ms pulse width' signal it needs.

author: bootloader9800
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2022, 03:24:41 pm
content: Would a code like this work? Ty#include <Servo.h>Servo ESC;void setup(){ESC.attach(9);// Arm:ESC.writeMicroseconds(2000); // Full speeddelay(100);ESC.writeMicroseconds(1000); // Offdelay(100);}void loop(){ESC.writeMicroseconds(1500);delay(1000);ESC.writeMicroseconds(1000); // Offdelay(1000);}
Programming your own quartz oscillators (EPSON SG-800x or others?) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2019, 12:57:37 pm
content: Epson has several nice series of programmable oscillators based on a quartz+PLL. Even the basic versions, SG-8002 and SG-8003, offer a lot of flexibility in the clock rates that can be set, and decent stability. (50 to 100 ppm over a 90°C temperature range; the more advanced series go down to 10 ppm.) You program the desired freuqncy once, and then just use them like a fixed-frequency 4-pin oscillator package. I am currently looking at an application which requires an odd clock rate, and these look like a great alternative to a custom quartz.Digikey offers them with custom programming to the clock rate you want. Their price is reasonable at 3.56€ in single quantities. But I would prefer the flexibility of ordering blanks and programming them at home. Epson also offers a special programmer; quite reasonably priced at around €250, but still difficult to justify for a (single?) hobby project.Is anybody aware of a generic programmer which can handle these oscillators, or a homebrew solution to program them?I did search the web a bit but have come up empty. Thanks for any hints you might have!If you are aware of alternative products which can be programmed easily (say via I²C), that would be helpful as well. But I would be looking for something that can retain the programmed frequency, so it can start up on its own upon power-on. And it would need to be stable to ~100 ppm, which seems to rule out any MEMS-based oscillators. Thanks!

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2019, 05:22:26 am
content: I realize that this is a bit of a niche topic, but I'll give it a bump anyway:Has anybody come across a cheap solution to program the Epson/Seiko SG-800x series oscillators?Or do you have other recommendations for a programmable oscillator with decent stability (100 ppm) which can store the programmed clock frequency (non-volatile)?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2019, 12:22:28 pm
content: Related:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/wip-reverse-engineering-the-programming-protocol-for-sitime-sit8008/Do Epson have any patents on these? Perhaps that may give a clue on how to program them.
Project: 300W Switchmode Bench PSU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: iamdarkyoshi
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2016, 05:53:00 pm
content: I am also posting here:https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/550384-build-log-of-my-300w-bench-psu/Anyway, I am working on building a relatively low cost but high power bench power supply. It is based off of this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/60V-5A-300W-constant-voltage-constant-current-DC-DC-regulated-power-supply-CC-CV-/190898609824?hash=item2c72719ea0:g:VXQAAMXQfFJRP4u~Honestly the hard part is already done, it is a working digitally controlled buck regulator and all I need to do is add a 60V 5A power supply inside the case. I have a blower fan underneath the buck regulator, and I moved the hot components to the underside of the board, where the fan blows.I plan to buy a cheap 48V 5A PSU and 12V 5A PSU and throw them into the case, the airflow from the blower fan should keep them cool. I do plan to add a thermally controlled fan controller inside of this, as the blower fan is a bit loud.One thing I like about this regulator is that it actually has an option to use voltage sense wires when installed into something, so it regulates voltage based on the voltage at the measurement wires, rather than the output of the PCB. I know dave has a video about this somewhereIt has headers for the keypad, LEDs, rotary encoder, etc. but I do not have plugs for said headers, so I just soldered wires directly to the PCB. A bit dodgy, but oh well XDI will add more details and images as I make progress. I will get lasercut acrylic front and rear panels once I am happy with a layout.
Project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Juup
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2023, 06:52:58 pm
content: I was not sure where to place this topic.Are we able to get a Bang and Olufsen tube radio restored with only the parts and gear i have?The goal is to buy no parts. I have a stockpile of new caps and resistors. Is it still usable? Is it possible to bring back that sweet sounding B&O radio to live? It plays but no radio signal found. The sound from an external source is just sweet. If you never heared the tube sound you won't be able to understand this post.When i watched an episode of Itchy Boots on Youtube i had this radio connected. The sound from the tubes did the job. The music was sounding so real from one momement to another i really thought something went wrong in my head. Into the video i suddenly experienced the real tube sound. Like you are floating in heaven.If there are some people out there who like to look deeper into my gear and stock we maybe can make this a project. For me, this would be a great first start. The project in this is that i am with no skill but with lots of parts and gear want to restore an old radio. Like a blind old man walking a foreign city.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2023, 01:38:20 pm
content: I hope you understand the dangers of working on valve circuits. Dangerous voltages are present, the sort that kill you!They can even be there after switch off- stored in capacitors. It hurts, take it from me.It will be simple to swap out all the old caps and flying blind, that can solve a host of problems.If you value your project and self respect do try to re-form electrolytic caps.Replace old wiring and put heat resistant sleeving on wires that go near the hot stuff.Tubes may light but can still be faulty- try to get them tested or replace like for like.Old resistors can have drifted way off value- test them. Dodgy resistors can kill your precious valvesThe radio section will probably need some adjustments. To get this right you need a fair bit of RF competence an RF signal generator and a scope.Watch some restoration projects and sage advice on staying alive at "Mr Carlsons lab" on YoutubeHe is the re-animator!
Project Advice: Adding a digital temperature display to Hakko 850 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: joeyhagedorn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 11, 2016, 03:00:29 am
content: I recently acquired an original Hakko 850 SMD Hot Air Rework Station. It has been great learning how to surface mount solder, but I find myself spending a lot of time failing to get components hot enough to melt the solder, or so hot that the station automatically shuts off.Part of this is definitely due to the limited range of the controls with the included nozzle. It seems like it'd be great to build a digital temperature display add on, like was included in later revisions of the product.Right now, in order to calculate the approximate temperature, I refer to the graphs in the back of the manual, which show the temperature given the positions of the knobs read from the front panel.First: Does anyone have access to the schematic for an original Hakko 850? I found some of the 850B floating around online, but I'm not sure how much the design may have changed in that revision.Second: I'm looking for advice on architecture. Basically, I'll have a small micro drive the display and compute the temperature, but I'm not sure what the most reliable/easy way to acquire the temperature.I imagine there is some sort of temperature sensor or thermocouple on the heating element which controls the heater in a feedback loop. Does it make sense to try to find that sensor output on the board and read it? Another approach that might require less reverse engineering would be just be to monitor the potentiometers on the front and translate the knob values into the temperature according to the graphs.I'm concerned that the air temperature exiting the nozzle is not directly related to the temperature of the heating element due to the air flow, so it might be more reliable to just read the set temperature from the knobs instead of the sensor.Anybody have some insight on other pros and cons of these two approaches?

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2016, 03:31:15 am
content: I searched for a schematic for the plain 850 a while back and did not find it. The major difference between it and the 850B seems to be that the B used a valve to control airflow instead of PWM control of the air pump.It is really the temperature at the board that is the concern. So maybe a separate temperature meter with a thermocouple that can be placed on the board. That is what the standalone BGA rework stations do.

author: joeyhagedorn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 20, 2016, 03:09:25 am
content: Ah, that makes sense. Thanks! I guess I can use the 850B schematic that is easily locatable online for some way finding here with the temperature board.I think a thermocouple plus a separate temperature meter would indeed be more accurate—but integrating with the station will help me get the knobs in the right spot. Guess I should just open this thing up and start probing around.
Project archive - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: lgrfbs
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2010, 02:04:25 am
content: This project was done 2007-11-02 17.10:http://elektronikforumet.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=21721----------------------------------------------------------------------------I need a way to keep a type of order on my projects so this come to be build.labdecks:This is 1 of 4 boxes:Here is all mounted and ready to be used.all is still working just file to day.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2010, 03:14:44 am
content: so whats the point? can it archive this?

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2010, 03:15:52 am
content: or this?

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2010, 03:16:57 am
content: or even this?

author: Zyvek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2010, 03:36:09 am
content: Quote from: shafri on December 28, 2010, 03:16:57 amGood idea, even with these limitations.

author: lgrfbs
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2010, 10:26:06 am
content: shafriYes it can archive #1 and #2 of yours posting and it is not badZyvekThanks.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2010, 02:33:17 pm
content: i think the jumpers/wires will get in the way, i have almost similar drawer as yours to only storing raw materials, but for a complete/half assembled projects, i still dont have a complete solution other than archiving my projects in open space

author: lgrfbs
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2010, 03:58:14 pm
content: It is okey, this works for me and yes the jumpers will be bent, but I use so soft jumpers so it is not a problem for me to take out a draw and work on a project.If you think this is not for you do not build it then

author: Zyvek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2010, 06:29:40 pm
content: Quote from: shafri on December 28, 2010, 02:33:17 pmShafri,Try stack-able shoe boxes. They are usually high enough to not mess with the wires. They can help save space while keeping your breadboard intact , but they still don't fit everything. Every now and then you can find them for about $1USD each.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2010, 06:35:13 pm
content: thank Zyvek. but i already got lgrfbs advice

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 29, 2010, 06:13:57 pm
content: different people tent to work on different types of projects so really on storage it is: "each to their own" As Dave has said before the plastic storage boxes work a treat to put all of the project materials in

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2010, 04:01:16 am
content: he built a wardrobe for that.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 30, 2010, 08:44:40 am
content: Quote from: shafri on December 30, 2010, 04:01:16 amno just put some shelving up
Project AZIZ: LED Microscope Illuminator (and, a personal introduction) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: TangentAudio
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 02:40:06 pm
content: Hello!I'm new around these parts, so I thought the best way to introduce myself was to share my latest project. I've been hacking around with electronics and computers since the early 1980s. Got a degree in a mix of computer science and electrical engineering in the late 90s, and I've been making my living doing related work ever since. I've always had personal projects going on, save for a long hiatus in the mid-2000s when life took me in some different directions for a while. I'm pleased to say that it was watching some of Dave's earliest EEVblog videos in early 2009 that helped me get back to electronics as a hobby.I've been building out my home lab for most of my life, but I've been filling in some important gaps the last few years. In particular, this winter I finally got a used stereozoom microscope. I embarked on a couple of mechanical design/CNC machining projects to build a stand and a camera adapter for the microscope. The latest project is an LED ring light illuminator, with what I believe to be some pretty novel features.I put together a video which covers the features, design and use of the project in detail.I maintain a personal project blog, which is chock full of all kinds of geeky stuff. I just launched a major overhaul of the site, including making a major dent in creating a portfolio of my older projects.There's more info about AZIZ over there, including links to the firmware, which I decided to open source. I haven't released the schematics/PCB yet, but I am quite likely going to do that soon.http://www.tangentaudio.com/Anyway, I'm really glad to be back to doing this stuff. Things have changed so much in the last ten years - it's great to see so many other folks involved.Cheers,Steve

author: cyr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 02:53:29 pm
content: Very cool project, and a great name!

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2013, 08:48:00 pm
content: I absolutely love it ....Would buy a kit anytime , if it would fit my Olympus/Bingo
Project because I could and always wanted to.... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2021, 05:15:17 pm
content: I don't know why I am posting this except that I am happy with the picture and, for some reason, I think it is cooler than f*ck. It's just a simple voltage multiplier with a few associated components. You know, like what I have seen in so many old magazines where I said - oh neat!Not going to give the details because I am afraid that someone will "put an eye out" or otherwise act irresponsibly. Also, I have not gone to the dark side and have no particular reason to defend myself or any of that crap.I will admit, however, that at the next barbecue that I am invited to, I will definitely offer to light the coals.At my advancing age, I think I may be regressing.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2021, 11:30:54 pm
content: I wouldn't worry about the circuit, it's not like there's any trouble finding those...For a forum dedicated to it check out Mads's here:https://highvoltageforum.net/index.phpTim

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2021, 11:51:02 pm
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on July 14, 2021, 11:30:54 pm*dayam* some folks over there are serious about their voltage multipliers!
Project case design? where to begin? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: chimera_786
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2012, 05:48:57 am
content: Hello people. I have often used off the shelf cases and then adapted them to my purposes. However, this time I want to step it up; I want to design a custom case. I want Dave to look here as well to give his input. I have access to cheap fabrication but I don't have mechanical engineers. This means that I don't have personnel who know auto cad and similar software to help me come with it.However, does any one know of a solution to this problem; for instance, I would like to get in touch with a company who can help me design it. Its a good learning experience. Any ideas?

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 22, 2012, 06:21:32 am
content: Tryhttp://www.emachineshop.comEasy to use 3D CAD software that detects and report any newbie manufacturing errors in your design, and then lets you select a whole bunch of materials and quote the job.Essentially designed for those with little or no 3D widget design and manufacturing knowledge.Dave.

author: chimera_786
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2012, 08:19:50 am
content: Quote from: EEVblog on April 22, 2012, 06:21:32 amAlright! thts what im talking about!!! im going to learn this software and see where I get at. Also, thanks for reply Dave. I am sure you're busy with the whole myth buster thing..btw.. is that heading anywhere? I certainly hope so..it'll be nice to see you do some work with them and post here/youtube.Best

author: ColinB
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2012, 07:42:14 pm
content: Quote from: chimera_786 on April 22, 2012, 08:19:50 amI might be mistaken, but I thinkApril 1st is done for this year.Sorry, the MythBusters are cool, but not cool enough for Dave.
Project design thoughts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: electronix27
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2025, 12:29:32 pm
content: Hi allPut together this MistTimer for plant cuttings. Thought about posting and sharing the project and code eventually. I work quite a few hours and don't have much time, so I wanted to ask your advice if this is something folks would be interested in building, and the design in general. many different types of these can be purchased retail.Without seeing actual operation this may not be totally possible to answer, but has a full menu to change all settings, temp compensated crystal and battery backup to keep timer running during power outage and return to current run time.Thanks for the input.

author: SteveThackery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2025, 07:22:51 pm
content: Personally I wouldn't want to use it, mostly because my hobby is doing stuff like that myself, from scratch, just for the pleasure of it. So a turn-key solution wouldn't be of interest to me.However, I think plenty of people might be interested - especially beginners - and you could show it as an exemplar for learning. I'm not sure where would be the best place to publicise it. Probably you should upload it to Github.Perhaps others will suggest ways to let people know about your project.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2025, 07:26:30 pm
content: I have no idea what a mist timer for plant cuttings does, but this thing looks like an application that could be run on a phone.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2025, 11:16:50 pm
content: What is the CPU, my guess a Z80 or 8051 variant? Nice mix of older PTH and SMD components, also noticed the backup battery, is that to keep the CPU memory alive in the event of a power failure?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2025, 11:37:05 pm
content: Adding "Mist timer" to the subject of the thread would help.Quote from: moffy on June 25, 2025, 11:16:50 pmAtmega32 or equivalent

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 25, 2025, 11:43:52 pm
content: A single decoupling capacitor and no local decoupling for other 2 ICs is too little. Also it's a weird choice to use DIP MCU and SMD for the rest.
Project: DS18B120 Dallas temp sensor chip VS MAX31855K Thermocouple amp chip - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: cobbler
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 16, 2015, 10:47:07 pm
content: Feel free to tear this apart and tell me what I did wrong, I am interested in building a project to monitor the heatsink in high output Cree COB LED lights. These LEDs are extremely efficient (~70%) but get extremely hot and put out a tremendous amount of light. The Cree COBs being used for the test are model CXA3590. The CONs are being driven by very efficient Meanwell HLG-185H-C700A LED drivers.So the plan is to have a LCD display showing the temperature of the high output COB LED. The DS18B120 Dallas temp sensor chip is thermal pasted directly to the LED ceramic collar. After this first simple test is done, then I will add the MAX31855K thermocouple amp chip with a thermocouple wire attached to the other side of the LED collar. Then we can see which one is more accurate and how they perform.More detail to come but here is a video of the DS18BB120 Dallas chip being tested. It is very accurate!So the temperatures mentioned in the Cree datasheet are important so the light runs efficiently. This test is pretty accurate, it is not measuring the aluminum heatsink temperature, it is monitoring the COB directly. The temperature is requested every ten seconds by the microcontroller and then logged to LCD and serial output.This is just for a temporary test of everything- to help read temperatures. Obviously in a production environment you don't need any of this- or if you want to have it, mount everything more secure and permanent.Parts:Arduino UNO R3LCD Display model 1602Breadboard KitEthernet cable3pin cpu fan connector1x 5M ohm resistor3x 220 ohm resistor (or 1x 1K ohm resistor)3x DS18B120 Dallas temperator sensor chip5x Cree CXB3590 COB LED1x MeanwellHLG-185H-C700A LED driverPart Pictures:
Project feedback - LORA + GPS chip recommendations (not LoRAWAN) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rfwifi123
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 01, 2020, 01:39:49 pm
content: Hi allI am developing a product for commercial use (hopefully) and wanted recommendations on some LoRA and GPS chips. The main criterias I have are the chips must consume minimal power (a deep sleep mode is also required), be cost effective and be available in a break out such that I can experiment with them.The system architecture will consist of a base unit which can communicate to a series of nodes, containing the LoRA tranceivers (simultaneously) and GPS chips. I am new to LoRA but like the fact that it has a range of up to 10-15km.For the nodes, so far I have been reading up alot on the SEMTECH SX1279 LoRA tranceiver and Ublox NEO-M9N GPS. The intent will be to use ceramic PCB mounted antennas for both chips with a PIC MCU.For the base unit, again I will be using a PIC MCU and ceramic mounted antenna (for LoRA). Unsure of what chips to use in order to communicate with many different LoRA nodes.For prototyping purposes, I require either DIP package chips or ones on prefab'd breakout boards.1. Are these chips recommended for commercial use? Has anyone had any experience with them and can list any drawbacks?2. I am finding it difficult to find the SX1279 in a breakout with a schematic diagram. Does anyone know of one?3. The Ublox is fairly expensive at about $15 USD (even in mass production). Does anyone know of an alternative fit for commercial use? If so, do you know of a break out?4. Which LoRA chip do you recommend for the base unit ?Thanks

author: profdc9
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2020, 03:30:39 pm
content: There are schematics for the similar SX1276https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/761/SX1276DevKit_Userguide_STD-1277977.pdfhttp://modtronix.com/prod/imod/inair4/inair4_r1_sch.pdfI have bought the NEO7M for 10-14 USD on e-bay. They seem to be a little more expensive now:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Satellite-Positioning-Module-GPS-NEO7M-UBLOX-51-SCM-STM32/192981958373The NEO6M seems to be slightly cheaper, about 6-8 USDhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/GPS-module-NEO6M-satellite-positioning-51-SCM-STM32-neo-6m/303221648590https://www.ebay.com/itm/GYNEO6MV2-GPS-Module-NEO-6M-GY-NEO6MV2-Board-with-Antenna-for-Arduino-M/283901726331I usually buy the modules with the 1 second clock output for GPS time synchronization purposes.

author: RobBarter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2020, 03:44:57 pm
content: I've gone with the Quectel L96-M33 GPS module £4.76each.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32970226292.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.62844c4dePbqX4And For Lora (although I'm using it for LoraWan) SX1262 in the module E22-900M22S (approx £5 on EBay).Can't give you much feedback just at the moment. Still in testing.
Project feedback: Power supply for stepper motor driver carrier - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gcardinal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 01, 2014, 11:39:25 am
content: I'm working on a project where key part will be a PololuA4988/DRV8825which will plug onto the board. Pololu stepper motor driver carriers accept wide range of voltages, from 2.5 to 45V - but for my project 6-32V will do just fine. It will run of 2S-8S Li-Poly battery with some room to spare.I went with plug-in carrier as I want people to choose the one which will work best for them - also when it comes to price.Parts list:TVS1:MULTICOMP - SA36CA. DIODE, TVS, 36V, 500WF1:BOURNS - MF-RX300/72-0. MULTIFUSE, RADIAL, 3AD1:FAIRCHILD - 1N4733A. DIODE, ZENER, 1W, 5.1V, DO41TSR-1:TRACOPOWER - TSR 1-2450. CONVERTER, DC/DC, 5V, 1A, SIPC?:100uF / 63V and 100NF / 50V.My main concerns:* Dose this circuit provide adequate protection from spikes and current back flow from stepper motor (when moved manually)?* Should I keep a dedicated ground trace for high-voltage GND to stepper motor driver? Dose it matter at all?* A4988 can provide 2 A to stepper motor, but I picked a 3A fuse as I dont want it trip to often - should I go for 2.5A?* Will TVS diode and PTC fuse protect A4988 from short circuit?* Should I also protect caps on the input to TSR-1 from short circuit? TSR-1 it self has short circuit protection.Im just getting started with electronics, so any other tips/ideas/feedback would be greatly appreciated!

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2014, 02:03:00 pm
content: TVS diodes are not supposed to be used in series, they are used in parallel. A current limiting resistor for the longer duration transients (overvoltage or polarity fault) in series before the tvs is sometimes used, but a fuse will cut the power immediately in such event.http://www.semtech.com/images/promo/What_are_TVS_Diodes.pdfAlso check the datasheet a 36 Volt tvs might actually be leaking a lot at 37 Volt. Be safe and use a 40+ volt one.

author: gcardinal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 01, 2014, 03:23:19 pm
content: Quote from: Jeroen3 on June 01, 2014, 02:03:00 pmThank you, really appreciate the help! I updated schematics and switched to this diode:MULTICOMP - P6KE47CA. DIODE, TVS, 47V, 600WIs there anything else I can do to improve this circuit?..

author: RR
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2014, 05:47:08 pm
content: You have wrong polarity on D1. I would probably also put that TVS after fuse

author: gcardinal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 02, 2014, 09:16:33 am
content: Quote from: RR on June 01, 2014, 05:47:08 pmOkay, thanks! Done & doneShould I added additional TVS diode in front of caps for 5V DC/DC converter or can one TVS handle job for both A4988 and DC/DC stepdown?Thanks
Project: Fixing powering issue of WS2812 LED Strips - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: yaqwsx
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2021, 08:01:34 pm
content: Hello,I'd like to introduce you to my small side-project: Neopixel Booster (https://roboticsbrno.github.io/RB0004-NeopixelBooster/).What is it? It is a small step-down module for long strips of WS2812 LEDs. These strips struggle with delivering power as the power traces on them are not designed for the enormous currents these LEDs consume. I use these strips a lot and I always bound a thicker wire to them to solve their powering issue. But the wire had to be really thick and the strips become tough and impractical. Therefore, I designed the NeopixelBooster: I can power my LEDs from up to 18V, thus I need a thinner wire. I just cut the strip every 50 cm a join it with one module.The whole setup works well and the "upgrade" process of the LED strips is also guite quick.You can read more about it in the project documentation:https://roboticsbrno.github.io/RB0004-NeopixelBooster/And you can find the sources on GitHub:https://github.com/RoboticsBrno/RB0004-NeopixelBooster
Project For Designing a PLC Based Barcode Scan Verfier - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: vvjain
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 07:59:18 pm
content: Hi I am looking for some one who can design me a plc based sollution for putting a barcode scanner that can scan and authenticate a product on an assembly line,Summing it upI need a barcode number ie a 12-15 digit number stored in a plc.the barcode scanner is connected direcltly to the plcevery time it scans a barcode that does not matches the saved barcode in the plc it stops the assembly line,please helpvaibhav

author: vvjain
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 08:16:38 pm
content: if not here , can anyone tell me where can I write where i can get help on this project, I am ready to pay some amount to get this done.
Project help Needed Please, portable electronics circuit, DIY multimeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: projecthelp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 10, 2020, 01:50:13 pm
content: Hello all,I am a college student from the UK and as part of my course i have to do a project, I have been given a project to do which is to Design a portable electronics circuit that can be used for training. It must be;Able to measure current, voltage and resistance.Operate on 10 Volts DC, but plugged into the mains. (You will need to rectify and transform it down.)Have a maximum of 5 resistors that can be in series, parallel and complex.I have a tight budget and any help would be welcome,Thanks

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2020, 02:25:08 pm
content: One idea,reply to the questions asked by people trying to answer your questions the first time you posted exactly the same thing.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2020, 02:28:34 pm
content: A cheap multimeter could be based on icl 7106 or icl 7107 ic's 3 1/2 digits, tons of schematics on the web
Project help Needed Please, portable electronics circuit, DIY multimeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: projecthelp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 03, 2020, 02:31:40 pm
content: Hello all,I am a college student from the UK and as part of my course i have to do a project, I have been given a project to do which is to Design a portable electronics circuit that can be used for training. It must be;Able to measure current, voltage and resistance.Operate on 10 Volts DC, but plugged into the mains. (You will need to rectify and transform it down.)Have a maximum of 5 resistors that can be in series, parallel and complex.I have a tight budget and any help would be welcome,Thanks

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2020, 03:51:32 pm
content: Not enough information. You could use any cheap VOM to accomplish this.

author: jeroen79
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2020, 11:48:02 pm
content: Yes, that sounds like an VOM.You'll need an analog meter for that. And suitable a rotary switch.In what ranges must it measure current/voltage/resistance?Any requirement on accuracy/precision?The max 5 resistors requirement sounds a bit silly to me.I guess the teacher wants you to work out some fancy switching arrangement to get various ranges.

author: OM222O
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2020, 05:22:43 am
content: It's nearly impossible to use only 5 resistors. for a similar project I had to use 11 resistors just to get 6 ranges! You can spread out the ranges but that'll cost you accuracy. You also need at least 1 resistor as a shunt for current. even using analog meters, you only have 4 resistors left which is only enough for 1 voltage divider + 1 non inverting amplifier. so possibly 3 ranges (divided, amplified, divided * amplified) or maybe 4 if you directly buffer without amplification / division.You can forget any digital circuitry for that matter too because ADCs need filtering which means more resistors.Like others mentioned are there any accuracy constraints?Even if you bother to do the mental mathemagics to figure out the overall gain and actual voltage / current, you'd be lucky to get any real accuracy out of a system like that
Project help - scales&timers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: James_1w
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 31, 2016, 07:22:03 pm
content: Hi,I am relatively new to electronics and have a small amount of experience - (tinkering) with stuff, so please bear with me. However i am willing to learn.I plan to start this project where by a set of digital scales communicate with a timer that can be changed into different settings.The scales would have 4 different options, 1 to be selected at a time. Once selected the item would be placed onto the scales, the weight of the item placed on the scales would then determine the length of time set on the timer. Im thinking that the best option would be buy a cheap set of digital scales, a timer module and somehow hack them together?the timer would also need an display as well as a buzzer.As i said im new to all of this (obviously) and any help would really be greatly appreciated.Thanks

author: Buriedcode
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 12:37:26 am
content: I would buy an Arduino along with an LCD shield. I've been using microcontrollers for years but only really recently started using the Arduino for quick prototyping, and knocking up one-off things for tests and its probably the cheapest/quickest approach.As for 'hacking' existing scales, often consumer devices have either a microcontroller or ASIC that does everything, including directly driving an LCD display. It is doubtful it has anything like a serial output or a voltage that represents the sensed weight as an output. Perhaps if you get one with an LED display you could read that display (8 bit port + 4 bits for each digit) but that can be quite involved. Failing that you may have to read the weight sensor directly which may require a much better ADC than an Arduino has (they can be up to 24-bits of resolution, thats 2^24 'steps').When you say 'new to all of this', how new? totally new to electronics, code, anything technical?this seems applicable:http://www.instructables.com/id/Motivational-Bathroom-Scale/step12/Scale-Circuitry-MC3008-ADC-Convertor/You might be able to hook up a micro/arduino, to the ADC lines, and perhaps with a a little nudge in the right direction from forum members, 'sniff' that data from it. I can be as complicated though.

author: James_1w
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 07:15:34 am
content: Thanks for the reply.In terms of my 'newness' I've made modular systems before, Bench PSU, Bluetooth speakers etc. But in terms of programming/coding it's completely new territory for me. And I'm beginning to think that this may well be out of my capability. anywaysThanks
project idea...improving AWG - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: KTP
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2012, 06:07:19 pm
content: I was playing around yesterday with the AWG on my Agilent 3000x (yes, yes, I can't stop playing with the scope) and was trying to generate a very narrow glitch on a fast sine wave to see if I could then detect it with the scope.I started with a 1Mhz 600mVpp sine wave and tried to put a 20mv glitch with the waveform editor. Forgetting for the moment that the AWG on the scope has a rise time of 17ns, I made the pulse only a few points long. I got an interesting wobble on the sine wave, but not anything like what I had drawn.This brings me to the idea. All of these AWG in the low price range, actually even the Agilent $2000 models, have fairly slow rise times (usually around 8 to 10ns). With the ability to use the tinylogic buffer chips to get 600ps rise times, I am thinking of some sort of add-on device that can either sharpen the output of a square or pulse wave from the AWG, or add a glitch to an existing waveform. I haven't really thought this through very well, but I suspect you would need at minimum a trigger signal from the AWG along with a programmable delay to select when you insert the glitch. Programmable gain for the amplitude of the glitch or pulse would be nice. Obviously we are talking quite a bit more circuitry than a simple buffer. What do you guys think? Even possible? A worthy project?For reference, I had been watching this video and was just curious if I could duplicate anything close on the 3000x:
Project idea, peltier/seebeck powered watch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: JJalling
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 17, 2015, 08:51:27 am
content: Hi,I'm wondering why haven't anyone powered a semi-"smart watch" from a peltier/seebeck element? It's been a while, since I saw Daves video on energy harvesting, but as far as I remember, he got enough power to atleast power a small micro and one of Sharps memory displays.I'm building a prototype to test things out, but has anyone some info they would like to share?BR Jonas

author: Torrentula
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2015, 09:55:57 am
content: I'm not sure how much power you can really get out of the small surface area of a watch but I know there has been this project on Hackaday a while ago:http://hackaday.com/2013/12/02/energy-harvesting-peltier-ring/He basically just lit up an LED with a peltier module and a DC-DC boost converter.

author: eneuro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2015, 10:44:06 am
content: Also working on similar watch, but I need power up to 3 leds (ok.they can be PWMed and supercapacitors used to charge them when display is deactivated I do not need them lighting all the time, just to check time when neededQuote from: Torrentula on March 17, 2015, 09:55:57 amOK, we have 0.3V @ 20*C temp difference, but what about short circuit current-I mean power?Need to watch again @Dave teardown.QuoteProbably it could better with much higher cooling area of watch holder or in swimming pool or while running or riding a bicycle.Anyway, place such thing on two fingers much more difficult than at least 1inch2 watch surface with additional watch holder area looks like it can work
Project idea: UPS with a backplane - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 01:27:36 pm
content: So this idea have bugged me for a while: a UPS with modular input, output and battery modules and a big controller backplane.This idea came from me wanting to protect my networking wiring closet with some kind of UPS, but the equipments involved proved to be a mess of wall warts emitting different voltages:* DC5V 2A* DC12V 2A* AC9V 1A* AC220V 0.16ASo I am thinking about making a UPS that can directly output all those voltages - and why stop here, just make all outputs - and inputs and batteries too - modular?The idea will produce a 3U half rack unit. Backplane includes:* 48V main power bus* 5V auxiliary power bus (derived from the 48V rail on the backplane, limited to 2A total)* JTAG chain pins* SPI bus and an open drain interrupt pinThe backplane control the modules by talking over SPI bus should it requires control.All modules have a width that is multiples of 1 inch and a depth of 10 inch. Modules include:* 2-width single-phase mains interface module (can be both a mains power supply and a phase-tracking inverter)* 1-width solar panel input module* 1-width micro wind power input module* 2-width single-phase mains inverter output module* 1-width 12V DC output module (cigarette lighter socket)* 1-width 9V AC inverter output module (2.1mm socket)* 1-width 5V DC output module (USB socket with Apple-compatible charging resistors)* 1-width battery module (10x 18650 Li-ion cells)* 3-width battery module (50x 18650 Li-ion cells)* 1-width chassis interconnect cardsSo by mix and matching the modules, this UPS can be a piece of multirole equipment: UPS, solar inverter with optional battery backup, mega wall wart or even a line conditioner.

author: con-f-use
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 02:07:42 pm
content: Sounds like an elaborate version of this:https://hackaday.io/project/5741-emergency-backup-power-and-wallwarts-eliminatorAnd its modules:https://hackaday.io/project/2145-smps-replacement-for-7805I'm in the early stages of something similar...
Project idea - USB current limiter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: miceuz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2014, 11:02:05 pm
content: I don't know about you, but I always have this anal feeling when connecting a newly built usb device to a computer for the first time. Laptops provide port protection, yes, event they don't have to though, but seeing that dialog about USB failure is not a nice feeling anyway.So i've set up to build an USB current limiter for myself. It's basically based on uCurrent mA range plus a low Rdson mosfet and another opamp.Before going on and ordering PCBs I wanted to validate the design - it should be just a simple current limiter, but devil is always in the details. Do you see any devil in this schematics?I knew the circuit would oscillate for sure, so I'm designing in some counter measures: differential configuration of U1A and R1 is to limit the overall loop gain, caps in feedback loops - for compensation. LM7705 is to provide -200mV rail to overcome 4mV Voutmin limitation of U3A. Does anyone see any pitfalls I've missed? Would such a device be usefull to you?

author: sachleen
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2014, 11:06:14 pm
content: wrong attachment?

author: miceuz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2014, 11:11:00 pm
content: yeah, fixed.

author: mazurov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2014, 11:45:48 pm
content: Take a look at Micrel MIC2004 part. They are available in several current limit varieties and it also discharges the VBUS when turned off. There is also MIC2005 which has overload flag pin. Another USB current limiter is Onsemi NCP380. Any of the mentioned will reduce your circuit to 2 parts - the switch and 0.1uF ceramic cap, arrows A,B on the attached picture.

author: miceuz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2014, 10:56:06 am
content: Well, probably those parts are already on the output of a laptop USB portWhat my design gives as a bonus is a possibility to monitor the current and to set the maximum current quite accurately.

author: lapm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2014, 12:00:55 pm
content: I tought you needed smart usb slave that can ask more current then default available? Or is this limiter for one of those external 5 volts "USB" power packs?

author: miceuz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2014, 12:32:31 pm
content: Quote from: lapm on January 10, 2014, 12:00:55 pmThis would be adjustable current limiter/monitor - just like a in workbench power supply - you set the max current limit before powering a new device. Often you can't power a USB device from a lab PSU (well, you can, but you have to have a tortured cable and you will not be able to monitor current for some specific states if you don't connect data lines to a PC)
Project Idea - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jbuss_au
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 15, 2019, 04:09:20 am
content: Hi all,I saw an article in Diyode on servos and they had a competition where you can win one by sending in your ideas.I had an idea to use one for opening and closing a door on a chicken coop at a set time.I know I'd need and Arduino, servo and a timing device but i also want to power it from battery, charged by solar.The door isn't very heavy so I wouldn't need a strong servo.Any help is appreciated to point me in the right direction

author: KMoffett
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2019, 02:41:06 pm
content: Google: door on a chicken coop servoKen

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2019, 02:45:14 pm
content: I'd think this would be doable with a few off-the-shelf parts from a decent hardware store.Electric door openers do exist. Programmable timers as well. Solar rechargeable batteries as well. If the door opener and timer you find are mains-powered, you need an additional inverter after the battery. Also off-the-shelf.So, not sure this is worth designing completely from scratch...

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2019, 10:12:15 am
content: Previous thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/automatic-chicken-door-time-input-(low-power-simple)/