What are your favourite wire to board connectors? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 09, 2014, 12:38:54 pm
content: As a couple of projects come closer to fruition, I'm starting to look at wire to board connectors.Man there's a lot. And it often isn't obvious which is the mating part.There are a bunch of guys with years more experience than me here, and you've all been through this before.What's the collective wisdom on parts that are:Readily availableReasonably pricedNot orientation agnosticA bit clippy, or with some kind of retentionGood for a few tens of insertionsHand solderableAvailable in a few spacings, for the occasional higher voltage connectionFairly small, or at least short when parallel to the boardI don't really want to crimp a lot either. Some sort of pressure fit like the old IDE cables would be nice.

author: DenzilPenberthy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2014, 02:15:38 pm
content: Molex KK are always my standard thing for this. Cheap, ubiquitous, secure.Buy the crimp tool and never look back

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2014, 02:17:21 pm
content: Molex minifit junior or equivalent. Move up to the larger version for higher current (ie PC ATX style, PCI-E style and bigger).It seems to be a fairly common standard amongst manufacturers as far as the keying of pins goes, so there's heaps to choose from.http://www.molex.com/molex/products/group?key=wire_to_board_connectors&channel=productsJust look at the current rating and pin pitch you want. They do the connectors in various versions (ie latching, PCB mounting holes, with clips, gold plated, with drain holes (?!))

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2014, 07:13:38 pm
content: If you might find yourself doing a large number of terminations, it's worth considering IDC options. TE's MTA series IDC connectors intermate with Molex KK and equivalents, and the hand tool is reasonably priced (in the realm of non-generic tooling, anyway) at a couple hundred bucks. The same ratcheting handle works with a number of different heads that will accomodate the .100" and .156" MTA connectors as well as a bunch of others. In the same vein, JST's XH connectors (and their ubiquitous knockoffs) have an IDC equivalent in the NR series, which also has an interchangeable head hand tool available for a few hundred bucks.

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2014, 07:27:31 pm
content: I hate to go against the grain here but my favorite wire to board termination is a turret terminal and some solder. No problem with dirty or loose connections.

author: penfold
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2014, 10:25:28 pm
content: If its coming from a wiring harness that I have no control over I rather like the molex mini-fit jr range, they're chunky enough to avoid hack handed service technicians pulling on the wires to release them and come with strain relief optionsFor everything else, I try and use as much ribbon cable as possible, for 'outside world' connectors that have to be mounted away from the main boards i aim to get them on small PCBs with ribbon cable for internal interconnections.I really like turret terminals and tags because they big, easily inspected, nice to work with (and look pretty), but I'd struggle to work them into a product because of assembly time and field replacement targets

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2014, 10:31:10 pm
content: JST XH (2.5mm) and PH(2mm)very cheap, well designed, good retention polarisation, SMD and TH versions, PH available in 1 and 2 row versions.Crimp tools are very good, though expensive.Way better than Molex's overpriced, poorly retaining, single-side contact KK

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2014, 10:45:08 pm
content: Molex SL. But KK are good too.

author: hamdi.tn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 12:06:53 am
content: Molex KK are a good choice for this

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 01:23:41 am
content: The tips here have provided surprisingly useful search criteria. Thanks guys. There's no doubt you've saved me days of annoyance, link loops, frustration, unreliable notes and worry.While I think of it; thanks for nothing Mister Manufacturer-Part-Number-Creator. I'm sure they mean well, and I realise the numbers mean something, but bloody hell. At least you'll get relevant google hits when searching for one I suppose.The JST XH/PH connectors do indeed appear to be cheaper for a whole connection in reasonably small quantities.Anyway, whatever I choose from this thread I'll probably buy a selection of and stick with for some time. So I have a couple of follow up questions:The consensus is crimping. Crimping annoys me. Probably because I can never trust my cheap crimpers and connectors. The next obvious (over asked) question is do you use the recommended crimper? Without getting into a protracted discussion with the pedants about the pros and cons of using the manufacturers specified crimper; has anyone experienced good results with an after market one? I'll be buggered if I'm going to pay $500+ for a crimper. (but maybe this is a stupid attitude)The MTA and NR IDC connectors are cool, and what I asked for, but not what I wanted; they still require a special tool.Maybe I'm making too much of this. Maybe crimping isn't a big deal when you have the hang of it. Does it take long to get good at making, say, a 5 wire connection that's tidy and secure?Quote from: German_EE on September 09, 2014, 07:27:31 pmI've just been looking at these for test points. Maybe I'm searching in the wrong place, but they seem to be 25-30 cents in lowish volumes. This seems outrageous. Where are you buying them from?

author: penfold
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 08:45:17 am
content: For molex KK and similar connectors, I have had good results with a cheap generic crimper, as long as one uses an appropriate wire size for the terminal and gets the stripping distance right, its fine. But that being said, the official molex crimper is very nice, it has a little tab to hold the terminal before you insert the wire and crimp.

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 09:01:03 am
content: If you want a small connector, the Molex PicoBlade is pretty good (1.25mm pitch). You can buy pre-crimped wires for them which sidesteps the requirement for a crimping tool.I use the Molex KK series if size is less of an issue. Very handy to have straight and right-angled versions available. I have never had a problem with poor connections using them,JST make very good connectors but, as you have found out, the crimper's price makes my eyes water. They do have an excellent free sample facility where you just go to their website and make up a 'basket' of samples you want and you get them in a couple of days. This is in England, YMMV.

author: DenzilPenberthy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 09:44:23 am
content: This is an interesting thread. Thumbing through a catalogue of connectors is a pretty bewildering experience. It's interesting to see what everyone else uses.I was just looking at those JST connectors and thinking 'yeah, they look pretty handy' but oh my god! £895 for the crimp tool!!! That's over a grand with the VAT! I thought I was really treating myself when I shelled out for the KK crimper

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 11:07:22 am
content: For relatively cheap multipurpose crimpers, the Engineer Japan PA-21 (and others depending on which crimps you are doing) are pretty versatile. You have to crimp the wire and insulation separately in two steps, but for small volume stuff they're adequate.PA-21http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pa21e.htmlApplication Charthttp://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pa21applicatn_chart.htmlSimilar info on their site for the PA-20 and PA-09. I've just got a set of PA-09s and PA-21s to cover everything.

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 11:15:23 am
content: JST for me like mike said.

author: Dago
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 11:38:29 am
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on September 09, 2014, 10:31:10 pmI have recently been using 2 pin PH-series connectors as my go-to board power connector. I like the size and the retention and all but damn they are tedious to crimp, at least with my 15€ eBay crimping tool. Main problem is getting the contact seated in the jaws so that the wire is the right way in (can't really see inside the jaw and cannot really position the wire beforehand). Never used the genuine crimping tool.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 12:43:35 pm
content: Quote from: Dago on September 10, 2014, 11:38:29 amThis is why the proper JST tool is so good - you insert the contact into a carrier plate, which then hinges into place it in the crimping jaws ready to insert the wire & crimp - very quick and hard to mis-place/misalign anything. Hard to see in most catalogue pictures but you can see it in the instructions :http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/316831.pdf

author: Dago
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 01:13:47 pm
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on September 10, 2014, 12:43:35 pmI wonder how these would work:http://www.ebay.com/itm/111450019573

author: Fred27
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 01:30:04 pm
content: That looks like a "convertible" version of the PA-09 / PA-20. They're reasonable crimpers but I'm not sure I really see the benefit of the interchangeable dies - especially at that price.

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 01:52:58 pm
content: I mainly use this generic sort of connector:https://ec.setron.de/products/71072-2510-2pybeige.aspxCheap generic crimpers are available for these, I've recently acquired one from Hong Kong. Before I used to solder them, not good for production use I guess but in a hobbyist environment not a big deal.One thing I like about them is you can easily remove the pins without any special tool.

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 03:26:27 pm
content: For low pin count interconnects I use generic 2.54mm crimped "goldpins", for larger pin counts or higher currents generic 2.54mm IDC connectors. IDC connectors can be easily crimped using an ordinary vise, and for crimped ones I use my generic $10 crimp tool. All this works very well and is really cheap.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 09:22:43 pm
content: Quote from: apelly on September 10, 2014, 01:23:41 amI said the same thing as I spent countless frustrating hours messing with cheaper crimpers. After getting the real thing (Molex in this case), it was a breeze. It comes down to two paths... either you are crimping a lot of wires, or you aren't. If you aren't, then doing a few by hand isn't that big of a deal, and/or you can have a local wire company make up the wires for you (Squires in the USA is great for this). If you are doing a lot, then you can again either outsource the crimping or buy a higher volume crimper - in Molex's case they had a pneumatic unit.But having the right crimping tool and die makes all the difference, not only in ergonomics (holding the terminal correctly), but also in correct crimps which means less warranty work down the line.

author: eneuro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 10:52:38 pm
content: I like those 3mm screws with additional soldered copper wires for power tracks when neededIt require some "art work" but quite nity

author: Alex30
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2014, 01:00:32 am
content: Before everyone starts buying crimpers I would see how you go just using needle nose pliers. I have a crimper but I often just grab my pliers because they're closer and I can do the job just as good provided it's just thin wire (not too thin, not too thick).

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2014, 11:52:31 am
content: Quote from: Alex30 on September 11, 2014, 01:00:32 am..and you don't care too much about long-term reliability.Crimping is all about achieving an airtight compression of wire and contact. Using a totally wrong tool is unlikely to achieve this

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2014, 09:02:15 pm
content: I've pliers-crimped pins before, but because I don't trust them, I also solder the joint.FYI, crimped joints aren't supposed to be soldered -- can make fatigue and corrosion worse!Tim

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2014, 09:08:33 pm
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on September 11, 2014, 09:02:15 pmI follow this rule, but I don't know the reasoning behind it. Anyone care to enlighten me? Any tests that show why?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2014, 09:12:32 pm
content: Quote from: george graves on September 11, 2014, 09:08:33 pmWith the correct match of cable, crimp terminal and crimp die the formed joint is acompression weld!This is not achievable without correct component selection, die setting and trial for the right result.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2014, 10:22:16 pm
content: Quote from: george graves on September 11, 2014, 09:08:33 pmsolder can flow up between the strands of stranded wire, making it like solid core transmitting stresses into the contact when the wire moves.It's also much easier to make a bad soldered joint than a bad crimp (with the right tool). If done badly solder can flow onto the contact surface, or part of the surface designed to be springy.Comperently soldering a bad crimp is probably an improvement on the bad crimp, but counterproductive on a good one

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 12:35:21 am
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on September 11, 2014, 10:22:16 pmFixed that. I dont know how many bad TE 'CPC' crimps Ive seen with a tyco tool because people just grab whatever male/female contact they can find. 24-20 AWG contact and 28 AWG wire? "Ahh I'll just put it in the 28 awg slot and crimp it anyway."

author: suicidaleggroll
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 12:54:42 am
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on September 11, 2014, 09:02:15 pmSame here. If I have the correct crimper available I use that, if not I do the best I can with pliers, then I solder it to make sure it won't fall out, and then heatshrink for strain relief if the connector type allows it.As far as the original question goes, Molex KK is typically my go-to.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 12:58:59 am
content: Has no one said DSUBs yet?Not so great for power since the combo power dsubs are kind of expensive, but great for signal stuff. Especially with a high density DSub you get a lot of connections in a small connector, great mating action, locking, IDC or solder cup or crimp pin options, they are available everywhere for pretty cheap depending on the size. Plus you can get off the shelf cables of all lengths if you really really don't want to make your own.Everyone loves a DSub!

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 01:02:06 am
content: I guess I'll throw in a power connector too.CPC!http://www.te.com/catalog/minf/en/645

author: Alex30
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 01:36:52 pm
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on September 11, 2014, 11:52:31 amThis is true, but for home projects not such a big issue provided the terminals are accessible for maintenance. As posted previously good crimpers cost quite a bit of money, so for the hobbyist going for the needle nose pliers is worth a try imo.

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 01:54:03 pm
content: Quote from: Alex30 on September 12, 2014, 01:36:52 pmIt depends on how one values their time. I have done my share of plier or shitty stripper/lug crimper/wire cutter crimped 1/4" spades, and about 80% of them pull off eventually.For insulated crimp on spade/ring terminals, the TE ratcheting crimpers (especially with PIDG series lugs) are great.http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?sku=70089831&mkwid=oPlqAWeX&pcrid=48651000259&gclid=CJHLyN_n28ACFScV7Aod4QMATAThey arent $500, but for $140, I crimp a terminal onto the stripped wire, which takes all of 5 seconds, instead of taking a pair of plies to a terminal, spending ~20 seconds fiddling with it until I'm satisfied its "adequate" then when I try to take the terminal off, I have to carefully make sure I tug only at the terminal and put 0 force on the wire, because if I do, its going to just yank the wire out, and then I have to go dig the pliers back out to try and separate the terminals with next to nothing to hold onto now, etc...With a lug meant for 18 awg wire, and some cheap and nasty zipcord type 18 awg wire, generally the wire breaks before it slides out of the terminal.

author: Alex30
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2014, 03:01:26 am
content: Yes that can be the case. But I find that certain size wires are easier to crimp with pliers than others. Anyway I was just suggesting it for the hobbyists who want to save a bit of money

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2014, 10:40:28 pm
content: For a super tight design I recently finished, there was not nearly enough room for any of the connectors I have seen mentioned here. For power connections, I had been using Phoenix and Molex products with all the special crimpers without any issues - except for size. The solution I found is an interesting spring terminal that has the wire flat (parallel) to the PCB. Push-in 18-22ga stranded or solid and good for 6A (rated) per pin. I have been using 20x7ga stranded for a critical power delivery system with good results. It needs a special tool to release the wires - essentially a flat piece of sheet metal. The only thing slightly smaller is soldering the wire directly to PCB.No crimping, pins, or soldering. They have been much easier, but not if you need to regularly connect/disconnect.AVX: 009276008021106Mouser: 581-009276008021106http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=009276008021106virtualkey58120000virtualkey581-009276008021106SMT mounted but can be hand soldered if the pads are lengthened a little.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2014, 10:52:37 pm
content: Wago do something similar, with a convenient button release.http://uk.farnell.com/wago/2060-402-998-404/terminal-strip-smt-r-a-2way/dp/2102477

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2014, 11:07:41 pm
content: I like those even more - good for higher current and does not need a special tool.Thanks for the tip!