hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Triggering readings with a gamepad - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Harvs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 12:27:21 am
content: The CNC crowd (myself included) regularly use gamepad's like the Logitech ones as a poor version of a remote control (they have a proper name in the CNC world that escapes me at the moment.) They come in wired (~$25AUD from a retail store) and wireless for about twice the price.Recently while testing my scanning card (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/oshw/poor-mans-scanning-multimeter/) I tried using one of these controllers to trigger parts of Python scripts to log measurements while I was modifying a circuit (I can't reach my PC without moving.) Used the dead easy pygame library to integrate it.Anyway long story short, works awesome and saves having to have a full keyboard within reach, particularly the wireless version.
HP6632B repair - cap on ADC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: artag
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 12:28:24 pm
content: I had a problem on a 6632 psu : the volts/amps meters always read close to zero. Tracked it down to a faulty AD677 ADC and have fixed it - but there was a small capacitor soldered across the input pins, and I damaged it.I think it's a standard production mod, but the digital board isn't in the service manual so the mod probably isn't in a service update either.Anybody know what the value should be ?

author: artag
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 03:16:05 pm
content: I made an approximate measurement on another supply. If anyone else needs this info, the answer is 'about 100pF'.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 09:24:03 pm
content: Sounds around the right value to solve a RF pickup issue that probably was causing voltage instability with a cellphone near the unit in operation.
El Cheapo C&C Model 150U Frequency Counter help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 11:24:57 pm
content: I got this for very cheap off Ebay (part of the ITT sale), and I certainly don't need it but I might sell it at a ham fest or even give it away. I've checked it out and all the functions work fine, except for one strange thing.In the first pic you can see the mode select starts off in Freq A measurement. Then each time you press the "->" arrow button it cycles to the next mode to the right (you can also go left). The weird issue is that you can go to "Freq B", then it should go to "PRID" next, but what actually happens is that all the mode LEDs go out and it shows all Zeros in the display, with "GT (Gate) at the left and M HZ at the right (Mega Hz). See the second attachment. In this mode it will not read any frequency from a source from inputs A or B. I don't know what sort of "mode" it's in.If you then press the -> mode button again, the mode goes to "PRID". You can then go right, through the other modes, or back left, but when it goes past "PRID" left, the next mode is the no mode LEDs mode again.This sure seems strange as the thing seems to be in 100% working condition and in near-like-new condition. Has anyone experience with this particular model? Is this mystery "Mode", with all the mode LEDs out, do something I'm too dumb to understand?PS I cannot find the user manual on the internets.

author: JLNY
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 03:03:05 am
content: It seems that the full model number of this counter may actually be FC-150U. This counter seems to be one of several different variants sold under the C&C name, some of which also have an input "C" on certain versions.http://www.gtrade.or.kr/buyer/product/Frequency-Counter.do?productId=C2004-0000009390&categoryId=It is possible that the same firmware is being used for all versions, so the mystery mode where none of the LEDs are lit could be that it is trying to read from the input C which isn't installed on your version and doesn't have a light on the panel. This is backed up by the fact that it automatically switches to a MHz scale, as the C&C model FC-116 has an input C which goes from 50MHz-1600MHz.It also seems that there are other models under different brands which appear very visually similar to this one and have similar part numbers and capabilities. it is possible that the C&C name is just a re-badge of some generic counter bought from an outside vendor.http://www.elexp.com/PDFs/01FC150U.pdf

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 01:06:47 pm
content: Quote from: JLNY on January 28, 2017, 03:03:05 amGood research and I think you are right. Seems like a very poor way of doing things, is it that big of a deal to just adjust a little code for another model?Thanks.
Chilitec Digital-Multimeter CTM-43  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Miyuki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 09:31:34 am
content: Yesterday I bought this one for 10$ (at actual exchange rate)I need some new meter and as I'm skinflint this one looks nice, auto range and uA measure for price of poor DT9205ahttps://www.amazon.de/Chilitec-Digital-Multimeter-CTM-43-Big-Hold-Funktion/dp/B004P3VO2GI'm just interested if it is just re brand for Germany or thet actually made own meter as this is just on German sites
I listened to dave and bought myself an agilent 2024A scope now what? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: torontoboy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 02:31:19 pm
content: Hi guys, I bought a agilent dsox2024A 2-3 years ago from Newark. And I learned a bunch had lots of fun in the mean time building a bunch of stuff and learned a whole lot. Now I'm looking to other things and haven't had much use for the scope. And I'd like to put it into hands of another inventor or someone just trying to learn. I'd like to find out from the community anyone who is interested in buying a pretty awesome scope for a deal.

author: FastEddieFelson
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 02:39:11 pm
content: Wow that's a really awesome gesture! Good for you! My first inclination was to reply and throw my hat into the ring for contention but then I looked online and WOWZA! That's way too much scope for me both feature wise and $$ wise. I hope you find somebody who can give it the kind of home it deserves!

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 09:24:38 pm
content: How much is your asking price? Do you ship to Belgium?

author: Ahrenp
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 09:48:56 pm
content: I am interested as well. What's your asking price and which (if any) extra features does it have?

author: chickenHeadKnob
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 07:04:24 am
content: This thread should be moved to Buy/Sell/Wanted with the titleAgilent 2024A Scope for sale..

author: VE7FIM
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 08:53:43 am
content: I'm also interested — Let me (us) know what price you're looking at for the unit.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 09:02:44 am
content: Quote from: torontoboy on January 25, 2017, 02:31:19 pmWhat's the 'deal'?

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 09:23:55 am
content: Quote from: chickenHeadKnob on January 26, 2017, 07:04:24 amI fully agree! Unless it is indeed some kind of special deal, nice gesture, towards another forum user, as per below disclaimer from OP.Quote from: torontoboy on January 25, 2017, 02:31:19 pm

author: torontoboy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 12:46:55 pm
content: Well I'm pretty flexible for the price. I'm just trying to raise money for a brand new 15" macbook pro even partial way. So if you help me get towards that goal. I'm all game for any price. Attached is the serial number. I bought it directly from Newark Element 14 so I had no extra software features other then what it comes with. Comes with 4 probes. I only opened two so the other two probes are still brand new in the package. I have the certificate sitting somewhere but I can't find it under all my basement garbage.Yes I also realized I posted in the wrong forum sorry guys. I reposted it.-
Measureing ripple voltage of DC/DC converter with a DS1052E? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: jb79
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 04:30:07 pm
content: Hello!I've got a DS1052E with the two original probes and I would like to measure the ripple voltage of a small DC/DC converter with a switching frequency of about 500kHz (as far as I know). Here's the converter:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-PCS-Mini-DC-DC-12-24V-to-5V3A-Step-Down-Module-Power-Supply-Module-Converter/32738372200.htmlThe converter should transfer 15-16V to 3,3V to supply power an ATXMEGA128 and some chips around it, normally about 100mA. For tests I use a 4S Lipo as voltage source that is charged to about 16V.I allready tried it with the DS1052E but as I found out, it looks like the ripple voltage at these low currents is about 10-15mV or lower, it seems that is really low for the DS1052E. I used AC coupling for CH1 and trigger.Switching the probe to 1:1 didn't solve the problem, the result looks like crap.I also have got an old HP3478A multimeter but I think it's frequency range is only 300kHz, so that also won't help me.Any ideas how I could measure the ripple more precise with my equipment?

author: amitchell
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 04:47:37 pm
content: Hi this info from TI should help you out.https://e2e.ti.com/support/power_management/simple_switcher/w/simple_switcher_wiki/2243.understanding-measuring-and-reducing-output-voltage-ripple

author: jb79
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 09:16:33 am
content: Hi!Thank you, there are some good hints in this document.
Teardown & Analysis of an Anritsu MN9610B Variable Optical Attenuator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Hugoneus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 03:19:03 pm
content: You can watch the video here: [20 Minutes]youtu.be/VYwB2U1F54wMore videos at The Signal Path:http://www.TheSignalPath.com
DSO-X-2014A Screen problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: DavidDLC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 05:20:25 am
content: After some months with no use, today I had the need to use my oscilloscope again, to discover a problem with the screen.The scope was sitting on the bench all this time no use, I will say some months.I would like to know if somebody has experienced the same problem.I want to fix the problem and I need to know if I have to open the instrument to solve the problem.Attached is a picture showing the issue.Any advice is highly appreciated.Thanks.David DLC

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 06:34:27 am
content: I assume you're referring to what possibly looks like the layers of the LCD separating or liquid in there etc?

author: DavidDLC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 06:37:46 am
content: Yes that is the problem.David DLC

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 06:50:06 am
content: Does it change at all with light pressure applied to the screen?

author: DavidDLC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 06:52:54 am
content: No it does not change at all.David DLC

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 04:42:22 pm
content: < 5 yrs since you purchased? Bought new?Within the US at least it comes with a 5yr warranty.cheers,george.

author: DavidDLC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 05:09:40 pm
content: I bought it new like 2 years ago.David DLC.

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 08:08:16 pm
content: Well, <2 yrs - then it's still under warranty. Don't muck with it.cheers,george.

author: DavidDLC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 08:10:07 pm
content: Thank you, I already contacted Keysight for warranty repair.David DLC

author: Keysight DanielBogdanoff
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 10:10:22 pm
content: I haven't seen that one before...
Accu chek aviva combo blood-meter: override sensor & input manually - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Marbetu
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 06:09:32 pm
content: Hi. I have an insulin pump ( accuchek spirit combo) that comes with a blood glucose meter that is also a calculator (& remote control) for the pump. Normally, you test your blood in the meter with a test strip and the result (a number: X) is then used to calculate how much insulin u need to inject (a number : A) to lower your blood glucose content to a specifc target number (Y). You then go into another menu choice to enter the grams of carbs u want to eat (Z). This calculates the amount of insulin u need (B) to "digest" the carbs. A is added to B and to give the total insulin u need to inject AB.I want to override the blood meter function so that I can input my blood glucose result (X) manually. I would like to get into the software of the meter, and create a new menu item with up and down arrows so I can enter the blood glucose result (I could copy the code for the menu item with up down arrows for inputting the carbs). This would calculate (A).All the algorithms are entered into the pump manually by the nurse via her software, but there' no option for inputting a blood glucose number that is not generated by the blood sensor.The reason is that I have an electronic patch that continually reads my blood results. I don't have to prick my fingers anymore but my Abbott patch can't commmunicate with my accu chek meter. 😕The name of the meter is the accu chek aviva combo.Thanks in advance if anyone has any ideas about how I can acheive this.
Rigol 3058E DMM Offset between DCI Ranges - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: IU8BBM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 12:42:08 pm
content: Hi guys,while working at a curve tracer I've noticed an huge DCI Offset (200mA) while switching between 200m and 2A range of my Rigol DM3058E. Attached you'll find the IV char of a resistor.The DMM always showed this problem, also immediately after buying it.Is this a malfunctioning of the DMM or just a calibration problem? Anyone has previously noticed this issue on its own?Thanks in advance for all the answers,Luca

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 01:06:48 pm
content: Curve before and after switching is linear, so it does look like a calibration problem.. in this case gain calibration because both curves start nicely from 0 so no offset...So it it either that meter came with calibration problem, or that one of the shunts was damaged.. since error is large, you can use some other good working multimeter ( no need for high precision ) and see which of the ranges is the one with problem...Anyways, repair AND/OR calibration is in order.If it is in warranty, report it immediately...Regards,Sinisa

author: TurboTom
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 02:47:09 pm
content: To me this looks very much like you didn't consider the burden voltage of your multimeter, i.e. you measured the test voltage across the resistor under test and the DMM's shunt resistor in series. That would actually be exactly the picture to expect when due to range switching of the multimeter, the shunt resistance changes. Try recording the voltage directly across the resistor that you're testing (if it's small compared to the voltmeter's input resistance). I guess there's nothing wrong with your DMM.Cheers,Thomas

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 02:50:56 pm
content: I think it's quite normal.You didn't describe your set-up very well. Are you measuring the voltage across the resistor?The value of the current shunt drops from 1.34 Ohms to 0.161 Ohm, as the meter switches to the higher 2A range.Your test resistor has a value of 1.16 Ohm.The step in your graph accounts nicely for the change in burden voltage.

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 03:15:38 pm
content: Quote from: Wytnucls on January 28, 2017, 02:50:56 pmHa, I thought he's measuring current that was ramping up with time.....If OP is measuring current and voltage over a resistor and meter in series while ramping up voltage, you are correct...I guess I should have asked to better explain it...
Heathkit IB-1100 frequency counter teardown + repair. Contains nixie tubes! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: SingedFingers
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 02:00:08 pm
content: I recently acquired a Heathkit LED based counter (IM-2410). Accidentally I noticed an IB-1100 appear as well just afterwards in the "you might also be interested in" section as spares/repair untested. Bids placed and it finished at a miserably small £16. So it was mine. Arrived this morning. I can't resist old things that are broken.Quick inspection showed the plug had dissolved and the pins were sticking out at all sorts of funny angles which is sort of expected for the age and the mains cable was one of those very dodgy flat ones popular in the late 1960s and early 1970s, so it got the snip instantly.Cracked it open and it was quite tidy. No explosions, leaked capacitors and only one dead thing to be removed.Did a few checks for shorts and checked the ESR of the large electrolytic capacitors in circuit and all is surprisingly good. I removed the mains lead entirely and replaced with an IEC lead I had lying around. This is going to have a plastic strain relief grommet added for reference; I will order one later.Thought wire and fire bitches, plugged it in and got a pleasant surprised. All zeroes:Dug out the crystal tester I made from EMRFD and plugged it in with a 7030KHz xtal and it's counting properly:In the interest of keeping it alive and not risking anything, I am ordering replacement electrolytic capacitors for the whole thing, will strip and clean it and add a strain relief grommet and test all the nixie segments but it's working pretty well.IC date codes latest are 1972 so it's at most 45 years old. Good job Heathkit; this is why I buy their stuff!
DIY Active Load projects? Or some names to check - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: JPortici
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 07:14:42 am
content: Hi,I want to start making dc/dc converters and i'm sure a tool i'll eventually need is an electronic load. In my first experiments i've got by with capacitors and power resistors but i'm not sure they are the best tools for measuring load transients.While the theory and electronic design is somewhat trivial (well, not really true but it's not that hard) and lots of information on the theory side is available.. i still really suck at enclosures,panels and what not.hence the need for a kit or some used unit (or new! but cheap, in the sub 150 range)want/need:-programmable, or some other way to simulate transients (need)-bnc or test lead output to look at current (want)-i don't plan going over than 15V rails, 2-4 Amps max so 60W max power at least? (i can also start small and limit myself to 30Wif i made a dual output PS and wanted to test a load transient like insertion of a module that affects both rails... would i need two (sync'd) loads, right?Re:Load Pro is the only project i was able to find. will look after old stuff to feed my TEA (Test Equipment Addiction)

author: station240
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 24, 2017, 03:07:53 pm
content: I've been watching this video series.It's not that complex, and it is at least programmable.Oh and trick to making enclosures and panels, get yourself a "case nibbler", makes it easier to make square holes in thin materials.

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2017, 08:04:41 pm
content: Check out the Re:Load 2 from Arachnid Labs. They're pretty good, especially the current system! (I have one of their original loads without the case and programmability. I converted it to be programmable by adding a DAC and MCU, then added a huge heatsink which allows me to push it to 50W.)

author: calin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2017, 09:47:37 pm
content: This guy ,https://www.barbouri.com/2017/01/21/linear-mosfet-electronic-dc-load-part-1/is building one. I like his choice of 25$ power mosfetRe-load is nice I have one and for small stuff they are OK, but I wold love one that can also take control input from a signal generator to generate load transitions.

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2017, 10:07:06 pm
content: Take a look at this:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/dynamic-electronic-load-project/He also goes trough whole theory behind it and also stability calculations and such..
Service Manual for Hitachi V-203f Oscilloscope needed!! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: overtone85
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 03:36:54 pm
content: Hi, this is my first post.I just picked up a Hitachi V-203F Oscilloscope for £50 here in UK, but it's not calibrated (i should have known better). I did find an unsold ebay listing for the service manual. The seller says he still has it but after the first exchange of messages he's not replying anymore.Does anybody have the service manual for this model, and is willing to scan it and provide a PDF? I can also make a small paypal donation if you can do that.CheersR

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 03:55:59 pm
content: https://www.elektrotanya.com/hitachi_v-202f_203f_5mv_20mhz_sm.pdf/download.html

author: overtone85
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 07:59:11 pm
content: Thanks but, sorry, that is the Operation Manual.I need theService Manualthat contains the instructions for the calibration of the scope.

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 08:34:51 pm
content: Quote from: overtone85 on January 29, 2017, 07:59:11 pmYey of little faith...It is an old school operations AND service manual.. There is schematic and calibration procedure inside...It is how it used to be long time ago...

author: overtone85
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 09:10:32 pm
content: I noticed that section of the Operation manual, but it's only showing user adjustments for astigmatism, gain and Volt/Div balance.It does not include the adjustments for things like:Power supply voltagesCRT high voltagesMinimum and maximum brightnessRetrace brightnessVertical Transient responseand a bunch of other things, just like the procedure in this video

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 11:27:40 pm
content: Yes, you're right, it doesn't have that.. Sorry.Hope someone will be able to share it with you...
The inner life of my old Siemens B1026 DMM...  what kind of connector is that ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: kultakala
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2017, 09:16:27 am
content: Hi all,I just wanted to ask what kind of connector this is inside my old Siemens Multimeter B1026.But if it is just open i can share some other pictures, too.Because i wanted to have the photos inside the text i uploaded them to photobucket, is this okay ?As far as i can remember i got it in the mid nineties.There is a label on the backside which starts with "CE 95", maybe that means that its from 95 ? Who knowsFirst images show the meter from the outsideThen with open case.And here are some board details... three from the front and one from backside.I did not disassemble the keypad but the front cover with the keypad has to be connected to the board.This image shows the connector on the inside of the front cover...And this is the connector on the board.And zoomed in...But what kind of connector is this ? I cant imagine how it works.Does anyone have an idea ?Regards,Olaf

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2017, 09:22:53 am
content: This is a zebra strip. The inner black / white stripes are conductive / nonconductive rubber, making electrical contact by pressing them onto the PCB surface. Usually you'll find them in between a PCB and a LCD glass, but sometimes, as in this multimeter, between two PCBs.

author: kultakala
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2017, 10:25:48 am
content: Ah, i see... learned by googling that ZEBRA connector is a trademark.Didnt notice this kinde of connector before.Beside of that... the meter is working quite fine with its more than 20 years... wait for a DMMCheck Plus so i can check if its still within specs.
Hantek HDG2012B blue screen - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: valentinc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2017, 08:05:07 am
content: I have a Hantek HDG2012B in which I update the firmware to the latest available on the website. After that, it worked fine, but after the first restart, it won't boot. It shows a blue screen with no message and restarts in a loop.(exactly like in this video, but without the text on the blue screen, just an empty blue screen)What can be done about that ? Is there a recovery mode to reinstall the firmware via USB or serial ? Or the only solution is change the flash memory with another good one ? (which seems the simplest solution to me, but I don't know where I could find another flash memory with the software written on it)
Metrix OX8020 scope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Specmaster
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 11:13:36 pm
content: I have a chance of a Metrix OX8020 oscilloscope but it does have a few small problems allegedly so I have scouring the net for a user and workshop manual for this beast without any success.Does anyone know where these can be obtained or can anyone offer any help with this scope at all?
Search engine on Keysight website to find MSO with 16 digital channels - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 12:35:48 pm
content: Is it correct that there are no separate search parameters on the Keysight website for MSO?I wanted to browse all their current available MSO scopes with 16 digital channels.The newer models often come with only 8 digital channels, and therefore I wanted to browse for all the models that still support 16 digital channels. But there seems to be no separate search parameter for this.Their search engine could be improved IMO.

author: Avacee
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 12:57:12 pm
content: Had the same problem - The Keysight website doesn't provide any meaningful search/filtering for pretty much all of their products.I ended up using Farnell's website (http://uk.farnell.com/mixed-signal-mixed-domain-oscilloscopes-mso-mdo) and filtering there.The DC Power Supply section is equally worthless for searching potential purcahses. (http://www.keysight.com/en/pc-1152272/dc-power-supply-comparison?pm=SC&cmpid=20660) shows 262 results and no way to see what's comparable to the Rigol 832. I ended up buying a Rigol 832 because of knowing so much about it from watching the EEVBlog and nothing about Keysight's offering.

author: Keysight DanielBogdanoff
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 04:47:24 pm
content: Quote from: pascal_sweden on January 23, 2017, 12:35:48 pmDon't get me startedUsually there's a "product family comparison guide" or something similar that will have that info.I know it's old school, but always feel free to contact your local Keysight call center. It's a pretty painless system and gets you directly in touch with experts on the products.
GW-Instek Scopes at bargain prices. Too good to be true? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Gary.M
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 12:57:30 am
content: A google search led me to this...http://fiberinstrumentcenter.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=177There are other models at even better prices.I followed through the purchase process, and was surprised when the shipping cost was "Flat rate $5".Completing to the point of payment showed payment was "Cash on delivery"I didn't follow though, and I wonder now what they will do with my address details as I wonder if it is just a ploy to harvest that.A Whois search on Sunday threw up a result with a technical contact email address of agungraksana1@gmail.com and that email address when searched was associated with a number of other ecommerce sites configured similarly. One link led to a company called Mangisikasih LTD and a websitehttp://mangisikasih.com/I did use their contact form to ask about their store.Today (Monday) the gmail address contact as noted above on a whois search is now protected via the domain registrar and can no longer be seen.All a bit of a puzzle....

author: calin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 01:50:35 am
content: Most likely, i went all the way and used a bogus everything and a "black hole" email i have and you don't get a response back.Spammers probablyUpdate .. RRRIGHT !!that address can't be found by googleContact UsOur LocationAddress:Fiber Instrument Center20-40 Shinbashi,Minato, Tokyo105-0004 JapanTelephone:Phone :+81-3-5777-8182
Function generator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: NiaDebesis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2017, 07:46:17 pm
content: Hello!I have made this tread in the wrong place, i ask at someone to close my other thread...alsoI have to buy my firse function generator and i don' t know wich buy..my budget is 150€I have saw a bk precision 4011 and other stuff like this, but i don' t know if they are ok, i have a Rigol D1054ZThanks at allBest regardsNia

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2017, 08:30:40 pm
content: Have some patience. It is not like your question is the most inspiring one to get any responses in 3 hours.Any equipment is fine, stop collecting it and start doing things and you will quickly learn if equipment you have is ok for what you are doing with it.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 01:18:09 am
content: Why don't you help the members help you? What are your needs? What are your limitations?Max sine frequencyMax square wave frequencyArbitrary waveform required - how many points, how high the frequencyHow many channelsWhat voltage levels versus frequency (ok, this may be over the top but it does separate Siglent from Rigol in the higher end models)What do you plan to use it for (at least for now, things will change in the future).Can you get by with a truly cheap signal generator (FG085 $50 -https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11394). A neat little unit but hardly high end (I have one)Is a USB model (PC controlled) acceptable?Have you searched the forum for other discussions. There are some epic threads but typically for tools that are a little more expensive. You may find stuff in the $50 range and stuff up over $250, I'm not sure what is available in the middle. If I were buying an Arbitrary Wavefore Generator right now, it would be the Siglent DSG2042X.OTOH, if the specs would meet my needs, I would buy the Digilent Analog Discovery for $279 and be happy with all the features:http://store.digilentinc.com/analog-discovery-2-100msps-usb-oscilloscope-logic-analyzer-and-variable-power-supply/I have one...Do a little more homework and state your requirements.FWIW, I do not have a bench Arbitrary Waveform Generator. I might buy one but I'm still trying to figure out why. I've been doing this stuff a long time and in my corner of the electronics sand box, it just hasn't been necessary. Especially since I have two other ways of generating something.
HP 5216A 12.5MHz Electronic Counter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Spwhite
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2017, 01:32:54 am
content: I picked up an HP 5216A 12.5MHz Electronic Counter from a hamfest recently in Loveland CO. I figured it needed a lot of love, based on it’s condition at time of purchase. After checking it out, found it had a totally fried resistor in the attenuator section and some very, very dirty switch contacts which impacted the general function and the illumination of the Nixi tubes and the processor reset on power up. Both the wafer switches and the rocker switches on the back were nasty. It was a little grungy externally and had some stickers like most gear does. Cleaned it up and cleaned it out. Seems to work after a little repair and tune up. Setting the Crystal Oscillator was a time consuming chore as the the variable caps are not accessible without taking a cover on and off between adjustments.Note- If you increase the gate time, it does sift the MSBs off the display and increases the digit resolution.Now what to do with it? I cant find one on ebay to judge "value" so I dont know if it's going to be a keeper or a seller. Thoughts?

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2017, 01:43:13 am
content: Quote from: Spwhite on January 22, 2017, 01:32:54 amJust out of curiosity - how high will it read accurately?Do you keep it? Hard to say of course. It's cool because of the nixie tubes alright. Not very useful because of the low range.If you like the retro nixie tube thing yea I'd keep it for a collector's item, but that's me.

author: Spwhite
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2017, 01:59:59 am
content: Looks like it caps out at 16.6 MHz, at 16.7 it was lost...Second pic the first 2 MSBs are shifted off, so you are missing the 16MHz at the front of the display "shifted off to the left..."
Data Logging (voltage/current) to PC  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: smile
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2017, 09:33:17 pm
content: Hello, I'm looking for some Data Logging gadget (voltage/current) to PC.Should handle like 150W or so.Should be accurate but not hundreds of USD.I was actually looking for electronic load, but they seem to be limited to 25/35W (those that have logging to PC).And those that do not have logging are like 150W.Any help.

author: billfernandez
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2017, 06:36:22 am
content: The Extech EX540 DMM can wirelessly send datalogging info to a PC.
Starloc II and Lady Heather - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2016, 05:51:47 pm
content: I have a Datum Starloc II. I also have Lady Heather 5.0. I'm trying to establish a com link between Lady Heather and the Starloc III modified heather.cfg, I replaced -rx with /rxdI tried connecting via com 1 and running Lady Heather. When I start LH, I get a green text message stating Detecting receiver type ........followed by 32 columns of data (in yellow)then I get a TSIP receiver message and then finally a screen with an analog clock etc, that states "NO DATA SEEN ON COM DEVICE" in red.Note I don't have a GPS antenna connected at this point (it's in the mail), however the Starloc board is outputing a 10MHz sinewave and a 1PPS signal.Does this look normal considering I don't have a valid GPS signal ? I would have expected the second message to indicate Starloc II not TSIP receiver, and I would expect the now red No data seen on Com Device message to say something else.FWIW, I downloaded Trimble Visual Timing Studio and it auto connected to the Datum Starloc II, data is going back and forth using TSIP protocol. Looking forward to the arrival of my antenna.

author: ZigmundRat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2017, 05:57:55 am
content: I can't speak to the behavior with no antenna, but with an antenna, it will eventually come alive. With my Starloc II Heather apparently spends some time figuring out what the receiver can/can't do before updating the screen. When starting it will appear to stall for some seconds. Then it should show you the 'normal' screen. Note that the Starloc doesn't show anywhere near as much data as some others do. I attached a screenshot of mine up and running. Good luck!

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2017, 02:37:21 pm
content: This is working well now, typically sees 8 satellites, occasional dropping to 6 or 7.
Pricing on Agilent DSO3202A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: denlylance
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 18, 2017, 05:18:07 pm
content: This is my 1st post on the forum. I am a Journeyman inside wireman electrician and the last year or so I have been getting more into electronics. My question regarding the oscilloscope in the subject is this - A school has one of these for sale and was wondering what you guys would pay for a working unit. Don't have any info on calibration dates so let's assume it hasn't been ever or a long time. From looking around on the web, it looks like these things can bring around the same money as a new Rigol 1102E or 1054Z. Am I wrong on this? I currently have a Tektronics 2215A and have no plans on getting rid of it. Thanks for your time.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2017, 05:23:05 pm
content: I'd check on Ebay and tick the box next to 'sold items' to get an idea of what prices a piece of equipment actually sells for (=what it is really worth).

author: denlylance
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 18, 2017, 05:28:59 pm
content: Ya, it came up with 0 sold for that exact model. A couple of 3102A's sold for 195 and 295.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2017, 06:01:33 pm
content: I've looked up the specs but they are very poor compared to new DSOs you can buy for around $350 to $400. The DSO3202A may even be a rebadged Rigol entry level scope. Anything over $50 is a waste of money IMHO. There are also many Rigol en GW Instek scopes for sale on Ebay right now due to a bankcrupty sale a couple of weeks ago. You might be able to score a very nice DSO for little money if you have the patience to scoop up a good deal. More equipment is going to be sold shortly so the market is likely to stay saturated for a while.

author: denlylance
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 18, 2017, 06:06:41 pm
content: Thanks for the quick reply. I guess I will see what the school one goes for. If it goes super cheap I'll probably grab it, but otherwise I think I'll go with a new one. Also, thanks for the heads up on the bankruptcy. I was not aware of it. Thanks again.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2017, 01:57:48 am
content: Quote from: denlylance on January 18, 2017, 06:06:41 pmSo, the used school scopes were used by ... students! It would have to be dirt cheap before I would even consider buying one.There are some good buys on eBay but the problem is, it's hard to figure out which ones. If I were buying used from eBay, I would want one of the reconditioned and calibrated scopes. Something coming from a company that deals in used measurement equipment.
UNI-T UTD2102CEL Driver problem (solved) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: OmegaHyperion
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2017, 11:27:09 am
content: So, i have had my UTD2102CEL for a few years now, and never needed to pull data off it for further processing (with matlab in this case). So, over the years my driver CD managed to disappear, and im now stuck with finding the drivers and control software threw the internet.About an hour of searching with google, and various tests, resulted in no success. The best i managed was to get some UNI-T control software that either posts "Connection Fail, the device type is unmatched!" or "Connection failed !"So, dose anyone have experience with controlling this scope from the computer, and happens to have the control software and drivers, and is willing to send them to me? (or post on the forum)Alternatively, dose anyone know how to decipher the .dat files the scope spits out, when saving a waveform to USB?

author: OmegaHyperion
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2017, 04:21:34 pm
content: I sold the driver problem now.I used this monitoring software from UNI-T:https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B4Jyby-tjH5oSVJtQ2Z6alBJQTAI also downloaded the CH374 USB to Serial Driver here:http://www.wch.cn/product/CH374.htmlAfter that, the scope worked with my desktop.I hope this helps anyone who is having the same problem.Now back to me trying to get raw data from the scopes memory...
RIGOL DP832 - Best place to purchase in AU? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Wirregar
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 17, 2017, 01:44:25 am
content: So the time has come to venture into the Rigol PS market.I am have decided on an DP832 as it will suit all my needs (plus some) and the price per punch is attractive.I am located around Melbourne, Vic area and I was wondering where the best place is to make the purchase.Do I go direct to Emona, or is there somewhere else?I am happy to buy online, phone, or direct in store.TIADarryl
Any decent power supplies with Ethernet? (Or USB) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: 0x00
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 05:18:22 am
content: Looking to get a power supply that I can do a bit of scripting with, most likely Ethernet (USB would be fine too).Ideally I'm looking for something that's under $200 and has >2 outputs.Any suggestions?

author: H.O
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 09:20:40 am
content: Voltage? Current? Power?My guess is that $200 is a bit on the low side for a programmable supply with 2 or more channels but it'll be interesting to see what others might come up with.The Rigol DP832 will set you back $400 and the communication (USB and LAN) option/license is another $100 if you don't want to use the available keygen to unlock it yourself.

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 09:25:18 am
content: Theres a nice kitset project being promoted right now on crowdsource and also in thsi forum

author: 0x00
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 04:32:54 pm
content: Quote from: mrpackethead on January 15, 2017, 09:25:18 amQuote from: H.O on January 15, 2017, 09:20:40 amThe EEZ H24005 and Rigol DP832 are about the same price at ~$400, seems like the Rigol is a better deal for the specs?Quote from: H.O on January 15, 2017, 09:20:40 amI don't have any hard set requirements, it's for my home setup.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 05:57:00 pm
content: At the moment there are lots (loads) of GW Instek GPD-3303S programmable power supplies on Ebay. My target price is $35 but the current going price seems to be around $110.

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 06:02:57 pm
content: The HZ H24005, looks like it would give you considerably more power, and the ability to get up to 80V if you wanted.Quote from: 0x00 on January 15, 2017, 04:32:54 pm

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 06:37:52 pm
content: Quote from: 0x00 on January 15, 2017, 04:32:54 pmSPD3303X-E $389http://www.siglentamerica.com/pdxx.aspx?id=1393&T=2&tid=17

author: eeviking
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 04:41:12 pm
content: Quote from: 0x00 on January 15, 2017, 04:32:54 pmSiglent SPD3303C is 289$No ethernet, but USBhttp://siglentamerica.com/pdxx.aspx?id=174&T=2&tid=17
My bench PSU teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: 3nigm4
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2017, 05:16:13 pm
content: This is my PSU auto built when I was 16, in '90, with the PCB designed by hand with pen.Later in '97 I've upgraded it drawing a new PCB in AutoCAD and developing with UV. Added also the digital voltmeter as a kind of switch to use the voltmeter with a secondary input (the one on the left). Changed also final transistors with mosfets.It is based on a "Nuova Elettronica" schematic.After many years it is still working

author: 3nigm4
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2017, 05:18:22 pm
content: The schematic of the main PCB

author: kg4arn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 14, 2017, 05:27:50 pm
content: Nice work! Much better than I could have done at age 16.

author: guenthert
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 06:37:11 pm
content: What's with TR2? In the schematic it's a PNP (as one would expect), in the list of components it's a NPN Darlington. Which is it?

author: 3nigm4
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 08:32:57 pm
content: They have missed the right TR2 on part list: TR1 and TR2 are equals while TR2 in part listis TR3 on schematics, the one that power the relè

author: 3nigm4
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 09:50:42 pm
content: Quote from: kg4arn on January 14, 2017, 05:27:50 pmThank you

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 11:33:47 pm
content: Hand tinned traces, right ?

author: 3nigm4
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 06:11:32 am
content: Quote from: tautech on January 15, 2017, 11:33:47 pmAs I said: the first PCB in '90 was by hand, then in '97 I redesigned the PCB in AutoCAD, the PCB you see in pictures. I don't know where is the first hand made PCB... maybe I'll trashed