Whirlpool Range W11567348 Control board troubleshooting - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: iblackford
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2025, 02:17:38 am
content: Hi All,I have a Whirlpool range (stove, or cooker depending on where you are from) that uses the W11567348 control board. This board is somewhat simple, in that it just controls the oven portion of the range, the cooktop is controlled with the classic switches. It failed on me recently, and I'm struggling to get information about how it operates internally to troubleshoot more. Here's what I've learned/done so far:- The board takes in 120Vac and produces a local 5V and 12V. These are both alive and well when powered.- When the membrane keypad is _not_ connected, the board boots and I can see the clock on the display.- If I try to boot with the membrane keypad connected, the board goes into some kind of bootloop thing, where nothing is on the display but I can hear a faint ticking.-Although the display is not working in this mode, the rails are up, and in fact there are some signs of life...if I scope some of the keypad pins I can see activity.-removing the outer membrane cover reveals the keypad "schematic" and it turns out that pins 3 and 6 of the keypad are connected together, regardless of any keypresses. This must be how the controller knows that a keypad is attached.-by keeping the keypad removed, but simply shorting pins 3 and 6 with a wire, I can simulate the same conditions as the keypad attached. No display, but signs of life on the scope.- I'm troubleshooting this on my bench, and I have simulated the door position switch and main oven temp sensor with a wire and 1K resistor, respectively.Has anyone done a deep dive on this or similar controllers? I could probably pull the code off of the microcontroller and dump it for disassembly...but that's going really deep....Thanks in advance for any assistance.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2025, 02:33:49 am
content: These usually use a capacitive dropper and the cap lowers in value over time from absorbing mains spikes, causing insufficient current. The other usual culprits are electrolytic caps.

author: iblackford
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2025, 02:54:12 am
content: All my rails are up though? I don't see any drop in voltage....Also, this stove is only 2yrs old...

author: Dougmc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2025, 10:13:34 am
content: Post some very good pictures of both sides of the board and both sides of the touchpad

author: iblackford
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2025, 11:41:17 am
content: See pictures below. Not sure how useful this is. I have included a snippet of the schematic...for what it's worth.Again, I'm working on my benchtop, so I have tried to emulate the stove connections based on the schematic. You can see the 1kohm resistor on pins 4&5 of P3, and a wire shorting pins 1&2 of P3. I think I have the minimum required to keep the controller happy. Note that I originally started my testing without these connections present, and just started adding them as the troubleshooting progressed. Their addition made no difference.P10, cooktop feedback, is connected to thermal switches on the elements so that an indicator on the screen will light up when the cooktop is on or has been on (is still warm). I have omitted this from my test fixture because it should be irrelevant..the thermal switches being engaged or disengaged are valid states (the controller will still work the same in either state, it just indicates the status).Another thing I have confirmed...the relays are not stuck on. Although I haven't tried manually triggering each relay. It's possible that it does a POST that tests the relays. I don't remember this being the case before though.Thanks, Ivan

author: Stray Electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2025, 12:35:15 pm
content: You're best bet is probably to go buy a replacement circuit board from a dealer $$$$ or buy one from E-bay. I was given a very expensive Samsung refrigerator/freezer a couple of year ago that hadn't worked right for the past 8 years. I did some trouble shooting and narrowed the problem down to two possible boards. I bought both boards, used but guaranteed to work, from E-bay for less than $100 and one of them did fix the problem. I've been using the refrigerator for 5 years now and it's still working fine.If your Whirlpool is only two years old, it should still be covered by the factory warranty. Or was until you decided to tear into it.

author: iblackford
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2025, 01:07:37 pm
content: So I can appreciate that is the normal path, but I've already installed what was a supposedly "good" control board that I got used, and it seems to have different issues....I was able to get it to work once correctly, but after unplugging and replugging, it just shows the clock and won't respond to any keypresses (although it does work with the keypad installed, unlike the original control board).These boards are quite prone to failure from what I have read..but they are relatively simple, and being an EE myself, I ought to be able to tame this beast with the help of the interwebs. Indeed, one could probably spin up an arduino/STM32 board that completely replaces the controller and it would outlast anything whirlpool seemed to make.

author: Dougmc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2025, 01:42:35 am
content: I would measure across each touch pad see if the are all open.the one on the upper far left side looks likeSomething is smeared on it.ch resistance before cleaning

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2025, 05:09:15 am
content: This is a fancier design with an SMPS providing the power. Check C42, C211 and C209 (guessing that's its refdes based on the others around it) for low value or high ESR.