hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Cheap high voltage insulation tester - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ocset
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2017, 03:38:16 pm
content: Hello,We need an end-of-line tester for our offline led lamps production line. (40 to 150W)All it does is take the impedance between Mains Live/Neutral and Earth.-And yet it costs £6000.Why are they so expensive?Do you know of a cheaper one?Our production staff are having to share one and they are almost having fights with each other over it.We desperately need another one.Do you know of a cheap one?

author: Mattylad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2017, 06:22:24 pm
content: We have the same fights in production, other departments keep stealing our tester because they broke theirs.We have a Fluke 1662 type, far cheaper than what your saying. BY high voltage, how high are you wanting?

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2017, 06:29:19 pm
content: Without knowing anything else about your scenario, if you need to simply measure insulation would a basic UT513A work? It is a decent insulation meter (I have a UT513 non-A) in the range of a Fluke 1550C - it probably is not as sturdy as the Fluke but it gets the job done.

author: Nauris
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2017, 08:05:47 pm
content: GW Instek GPT-9803 is only 1950€ (+VAT)

author: DerekG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2017, 12:39:21 am
content: Quote from: treez on November 22, 2017, 03:38:16 pmCan you use a megger tester? If so, there are many models that let you select the testing voltage.They vary in price from very cheap to reasonable.

author: 3roomlab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2017, 02:12:23 am
content: Quote from: rsjsouza on November 22, 2017, 06:29:19 pmi have a UT512, i find it to be highly inaccurate. i ended up putting the HV thru a uA meter to get an idea of the "insulation leak". does anybody else also use it in this way like me?
Seeking documentation on Heller 988 reflow oven.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Merlysys
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2017, 12:06:38 pm
content: I am looking to buy this 988HAC because of the low price. I know it is 3 phase. Can't find any documentation like user or service manual.I read that there were several models of the 988, if anyone know of the models and their differences, pls detail here.It says 208V, since it needs 3 phase does the 208 indicate wiring configuration? (wye/delta)This model heats by forced air or radiation?
design and order an testing jig for my PCBA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: zeqing
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2017, 07:52:45 am
content: Hi, a question on the testing for a batch of PCBA. one of my projects need programming and testing, about 200 pcs, but it would be very time-cost for the wiring, i know that a testing jig would be good for this , that use pogo pins to wires out the pins, for testing and programming. i found there are many seller for it in ebay or alibaba, but strange the price is 0.1$~100$ for many of them....Does anyone know what's price this kind of fixture should be , and what files i should do for them to make it? does i need to do the Mechanical design by myself and they only produce as my files? or they will help to design it?

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2017, 05:47:20 pm
content: Quote from: zeqing on November 18, 2017, 07:52:45 amI made a "bed of nails" pogo pin test fixture for one of my boards. The board has 2-piece screw terminals all around the edges, so I just used those lines from the Excellon drill file to drill holes in TWO pieces of PCB material, and then isolated the copper around the holes with an X-acto knife. Then, I soldered the pogo pin socket part to the bottom board. The upper board stabilizes the pogo pin socket. The two boards are held together with spacers. I then wire-wrapped the pogo pin sockets to switches, LEDs and connectors. There are aluminum bars that screw onto the spacers with captive thumbscrews to clamp the test board onto the fixture.In some cases, a couple extra blank boards can be drilled out and used as a pogo pin fixture, using the through holes as a guide for where to drill the holes.Jon

author: zeqing
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2017, 04:21:04 am
content: Quote from: jmelson on November 18, 2017, 05:47:20 pmyes, that is what i did in the past, but it indeed time-costing and hard to fix them,and furthermore, usually get damaged in the testing, that is why i want some one to make such an fixture.. a vendor in alibaba:https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/High-precision-pcb-testing-jig-PCB_60414513762.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.50.6561cc87vbH1kP, but it seems he do not interest on me as i only need the fixture and not the PCB assembly.
How much extra space is needed for yamaha CL feeder "overhang" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: JPlocher
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2017, 11:57:13 pm
content: I'm space planning for a TVM920 P&P machine - how much clearance is needed for the feeders when mounted on the machine?The TVM920 is 1.1m x 0.8m x 0.75m - I assume that is 1.1m east-to-west, 0.8m north to south and 0.75m high, without feeders , keyboard or monitor.Feeders go on the north and south sides, so for space planning, so I need to plan for added space for the feeders.How much? From the images, I'd guess 0.5m on both front and back?Can someone who has one do a quick measurement? Even a ballpark max distance will be sufficient...Thanks!-John

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2017, 09:01:39 pm
content: Quote from: JPlocher on November 16, 2017, 11:57:13 pmA half meter might be about right, but remember the largest reels stick out even more than the feeder. The feeder sticks out a bit beyond the axle pin for the reel. I think the big reels are 14" (356 mm or so), so the 14" reel would stick out 150 mm past the end of a feeder made to hold 14" reels.Jon

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2017, 10:56:27 pm
content: I'll meaure it up. Just be aware that you'll need more room than just the overhang, you'll also need room to be able to get the feeders in and out, which means getting past any feeders that are already loaded. I have about 900mm clearance between the back of my machines and the wall. That work, but its tight. Any tighter you'll be cursing.
Need info on PnP machines Juki KP-620 and Zevatech PM-570 Laser - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Merlysys
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2017, 06:03:30 pm
content: Evaluating the usability of these machines. I think they are identical or similar. They were made at a time when documentation was not put online I guess.Anything at all you know about them please detail here, also any links.

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2017, 08:47:02 pm
content: Quote from: Merlysys on November 15, 2017, 06:03:30 pmI don't know these machines well. I do have a Philips CSM84, made by Yamaha, I think about 1995. These were built like a tank. Some things to think about are availability of feeders and spare parts, and the robustness of the consumables. My CSM84 has steel nozzles that are quite robust, some other models have very fragile nozzles that need frequent replacement. Note that the feeders you will need might cost more than the machine. Always good to have plenty of feeders.If you can't get manuals online, then absolutely make sure that the machine comes with the EXACT manuals for that model/serial. Most of these machines went through a long process of updates, and if the manual applies to a different software version, it will be at least an annoyance. Note also that some of the early manuals for Japanese machines were QUITE awful translations, and hard to understand.Also, make sure you can handle the power requirements, some machines require 3-phase power. And, also consider the physical size. I had to have a double-wide door put in my basement to accommodate my machine.Jon

author: sam512bb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2017, 03:05:37 am
content: Quote from: Merlysys on November 15, 2017, 06:03:30 pmGood day,I have a PM-575 and so I can try and answer any questions you may have. What type of info would you be interested in? If you do get a machine there is a Yahoo user's group (https://ca.groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/zevatech/info) that cater to these machines and within it there are various files and documents available to help those use and maintain these machines.Cheers,Sam (I am also located in Canada - Edmonton, AB)

author: sam512bb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2017, 03:12:52 am
content: Good day Merlysys,I found some basic marketing info if this is what you are looking for.Cheers,Sam
Need help wit attaching the tip in a Weller DXV-80 through-hole desoldering tool - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rbm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2017, 09:11:01 pm
content: Hi,I feel this is a silly-a$$ question. I bought a Weller WRS-1002 soldering workstation with a DXV-80 through-hole desoldering pencil amongst its attachments. The unit never came with a tip so I purchased one from Digikey. I've read the manual for how to attach the tip to the heating element, however I'm not sure that I've got it right. See the picture below:https://photos.app.goo.gl/HV5msKJB42V34nv02The tip is supposed to be inserted into the tool and turned 1/4 turn clockwise to secure it. I don't have the fancy Weller tool to do this so I used a 8mm combination wrench. The tip is secure but slightly off the centre line and part of the tip's base is visible. This is the best that I can do. The DXV-80 works but I'm not happy with the tip's position.I've never owned one of these devices so I'm wondering if someone can please critique the way I've attached the tip. Is this normal?

author: Neomys Sapiens
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2017, 10:34:45 pm
content: Pigture missing!There is a Weller tool called 'conus cleaner', which might solve the problem. Otherwise the handpiece might be damaged. Shouldn't look much different to the previous screwed ones, when inserted properly.
Electrical and Software Testing at PCBWay.com? Anyone has been through this? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bigtuna
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 07, 2017, 05:16:44 pm
content: Hello, I have ordered bare PCBs numerous times from PCBWay.com and have been happy with the quality every time.However I am working with them for the first time to do PCBA, and unfortunately the samples I received them had some issues (Of 3 samples, 1 works fine, 1 has dead pin on the MCU, 1 has a bunch of broken RGB lights).They are proactively asking for some testing procedures, which I think is a great sign.That said, do you guys have any experience with them on what capacity they are able to run the test?My board is simple Atmega32u4 board, but to ensure 100% functionality a bit of manual testing is required (like jumping two pins on the board and read the output on the screen).I don't know if this amount of testing is something I can expect from them. Thoughts?

author: wrinklehead
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2017, 10:52:11 pm
content: Are they loading the program on the atmega for you? If so would it be possible to have the mcu run a self test on first power-up?

author: ansonbao
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2017, 01:55:15 am
content: usually we will ask our client the test way in this situation.It is no problem if you need all the boards be tested,you can communicate with our sale rep.Could you PM me your order number,I will check the details.

author: bigtuna
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 08, 2017, 02:35:47 am
content: Quote from: wrinklehead on November 07, 2017, 10:52:11 pmIt’s not possible to do 100% test with self test. It is a user interface unit and there needs to be user interaction. Anson just reached out to me and he says testing individual board is not a problem. I just have to work with the sales manager. This is good!

author: bigtuna
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 08, 2017, 02:37:09 am
content: Quote from: ansonbao on November 08, 2017, 01:55:15 amPM sent! Thank you
Interesting article on DNA fabrication of precise nanoscale objects - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2017, 04:41:13 pm
content: "Researchers at Technische Universitaet Muenchen (TUM), led by Hendrik Dietz, have challenged that assumption head on and built a 3-D object using DNA self assembly techniques and found that indeed the object met its design specifications down to the sub-nanometer scale."https://www.tum.de/en/about-tum/news/press-releases/detail/article/30254/
PCBWay / JDB Factory visit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: janekm
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 05, 2017, 09:32:47 am
content: I recently visited the JDB factory in Shenzhen (PCBWay brand outside China):I only visited the PCBA floor and the drilling / milling and testing parts, as the chemical processing facility is 15km away so I did not have enough time for that one.Interesting to hear that they now get 60% of their orders from overseas.Let me know if you have any questions or topic ideas about Electronics development in Shenzhen

author: ansonbao
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2017, 02:44:00 am
content: Hope you enjoy your time in our factory.By the way,are you interested in attending at the activity to get $350+$150 couponhttps://www.pcbway.com/pcbway_story.html?
Spacer for a functional test board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ivonenand
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2017, 02:54:51 pm
content: Hi Guys,I just came across this image (in attachment), of a PCB for functional testing and programming in production (low volume probably). Does anyone know, what are those spacers called? I've checked farnell/mouser and can't seem to find them. Also, how is the target board pushed down to the pogo pins? The target board seems to be thicker that the spacer, so you can't use screws to push the board down.Thanks!

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 22, 2017, 05:08:27 pm
content: Those spacers are acting as alignment pegs, or guide pins. I've not seen those specific ones before, and I'd hazard a guess that they've been custom machined.I have personally used the GP series of pogo-like pins (GP = guide pin) such as the GP-1 or GP-1S.https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-GP-1S-Pogo-Guide-Spring-Pins-for-Test-Station-Dia-3-2mm-200g/371632228964I've also just used standoffs with male threads lined up with the PCB mounting holes, or a simple plastic frame cut to the outside shape of the PCB.For pushing the board down onto the pogo pins, you would typically use some kind of clamping mechanism as part of the test fixture. Often this uses a sheet of material with multiple push rods attached, so as to press on the PCB between components and spread the pressure evenly. You will often see white ones like these in use:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-100Pcs-6x40mm-Point-Ended-PCB-Test-Fixture-Parts-Plate-POM-Pressure-Bar-White/32712287035.htmlDo a google image search on "pcb test fixture" if you're not clear on what I mean. There are lots of methods depending on the shape/size of PCB and the mounted components.In this case it looks like the weight of the PCB alone might be enough for the pogo pins, at least in that photo (possibly not ideal to trust that for production testing).It is worth noting that you can buy pogo pins with different force ratings, which can be useful if building a jig requiring a huge number of test points, or for testing a delicate circuit.Sometime you also want certain pins to make contact first, or have a higher current rating - so you may make use of several pogo pin styles or mounting methods.

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 04, 2017, 04:12:32 pm
content: As a follow up, I came across this style of spacer from Wurth while looking for something else:https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/wa-smsi-and-wa-smst-series/46018These Wurth ones are specifically for SMD (soldered) mounting.Keystone also have a series of them available in a few formats (threaded/clear/round/hex), and are appear to be referred to as "swage" spacers/standoffs. This threaded round one seems to be a good match with your original picture:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/keystone-electronics/1623-2/36-1623-2-ND/318376
Suitable oven for reflow mod off Amazon europe - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ironcurtain
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2017, 08:31:53 pm
content: I have been reading some threads here and I wonder what other Eurozone people here have used for a reflow oven build. I am looking also for controller suggestions (Controleo3 looks good but I want something I could build myself from the ground up, ex. pcb files).Best if we can order it from Amazon, as it carries the best prices in SW Europe for these appliancesThanks!

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2017, 11:16:55 pm
content: Well, not Eurozone, but I'm not sure that matters except for specific model #'s.I bought the largest GE toaster oven that WalMart had in stock, back in 2007. I got a thermocouple ramp and soak controller on eBay for a steal. These have the capability to run through several setpoints, and ramp at a certain rate between them. I got a roll of micro-size thermocouple wire because it was an odd junction combination (Type E), but the controller had the calibration table for it.I found you have to poke the thermocouple junction into a plated through hole on one of the boards to get accurate temperature control. A thermocouple just sitting in air doesn't heat up as much as a PC board, so the boards get FRIED if you don't do this.I've run close to 2000 boards through this system so far.Jon
NSM Labs Projscts – PSL–3604 etc - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2017, 11:57:28 pm
content: Hi!Would any of the advertisers on "PCB Shopper" take one set of Gerber files for each of the designs produced by Member Liv who did the PSL–3604 series of projects and make them all on panelized whole to split into each design, or would that be so expensive for a hobbyist as to be unaffordable?Is choosing one design to build and submitting one set of Gerber files the only affordable way for a non–professional to get boards made?Chris Williams

author: awallin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2017, 05:33:46 am
content: Quote from: Chris56000 on October 29, 2017, 11:57:28 pmI'm sure many of the board-houses do accept a whole panel composed of many different boards, for example here:https://www.multi-circuit-boards.eu/en/pcb-design-aid/panel-creation.htmlanother question is if it makes sense cost-wise to spend time on composing the panel from individual board-gerbers. If you don't charge much for your own time spent panelizing and plan on ordering multiple panels then I guess it will make sense.IIRC Dave has a video on panelizing (fiducials, milling, scoring, etc.) - design rules might differ depending on board-house.if you find out at what quantity of boards it does make sense to panelize and order full panels - let us know!
Glossy vs matte solder mask - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: derGoldstein
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 08:46:15 pm
content: A typical glossy solder mask is quite resilient to scratches and physical damage. Is a matte solder mask more or less resistant? I'm wondering if, given a lot of part reword and replacement, the matte versions are more susceptible to the solder mask scraping off.In some close-up photos the matte solder mask seems to hide scratches better, while in others it looks like it's a scratch magnet. It's probably different between manufacturers, but I'm wondering if there's a rule of thumb.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 09:54:58 pm
content: I've had the experience that glossy tends to be weak. I've seen some strong glossy too though, so it's not a rule.That's probably more just because, the matte boards tend to be from production lines, where they follow the specifications precisely.Cheap protos usually use cheap soldermask, and the cheap stuff just happens to be glossy, no surprise there.There might be something about a matte surface holding flux better, and therefore something or other about paste coalescence. Idunno.Tim

author: Yellofriend
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2017, 01:21:50 am
content: I would always prefer matte. Glossy is irritating when you do manual rework on a PCB. Picture taking is also more difficult with all the reflections.

author: Mattylad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2017, 07:18:06 pm
content: I found glossy to be too reflective and confusing the pick and place camera systems.So insisted on a matt finish only.

author: zeqing
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2017, 08:58:06 am
content: the matte solder mask would be more expensive as they are not so pupular used.
Lithium battery suppliers in Europe - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: miceuz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2017, 09:25:05 am
content: I am looking for a Lithium accumulator supplier in Europe, anyone has some companies to suggest? Ideally I am looking 1 - 2 cell packs in 2000 - 6000 mAh teritory.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2017, 09:34:21 am
content: Which country?

author: janekm
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 02, 2017, 10:09:50 am
content: Try Farnell, or Hobbyking.

author: miceuz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2017, 06:33:52 am
content: Farnell usually has nothing for sky high prices. Manufacturing is happening in Germany, but it does not really matter - as long as it is feasible to bring them by ground transportation.Due to specifics of the product I can not use a battery from Hobbyking - it's a medical device

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2017, 07:14:19 am
content: Did you google?intercelpsebatteriespbqbatteriesOr do you need special medical batteries, because then I thing you want to order directly from the manufacturor.

author: thobie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 07, 2017, 09:00:31 am
content: Quote from: NANDBlog on October 02, 2017, 09:34:21 amEU.

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2017, 11:47:13 am
content: Lithuania. (do yourresearch)
What about power resistors from ebay? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: 001
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2017, 05:21:20 pm
content: Hi!Is aluminium housed power resistors from ebay usable?

author: ChrisLX200
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 19, 2017, 05:41:33 pm
content: Usable for what? - fishing weights? Need to be a bit more specific, but I can say you need a big extra heatsink for a resistor like the one pictured if you hope to get anywhere near the rated 100w.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2017, 06:05:13 pm
content: Usually when I need to use 50W or a 100W power resistor, I also need reliability.So, I am using good quality power resistors only from VISHAY, OMITE or DALE.

author: ChrisLX200
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 19, 2017, 06:19:33 pm
content: This is a 50w (claimed) 1Ohm resistor, it's sandwiched between the two heatsinks shown. If I put 10w into it the temperature rises to 65degC with convection cooling, I have yet to test using a fan how much power it can dissipate with forced air cooling. Arguably these heatsinks are far too small for the power rating.

author: 001
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2017, 06:51:41 pm
content: Quote from: ChrisLX200 on November 19, 2017, 06:19:33 pmThanx! Best answer

author: Ice-Tea
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2017, 07:14:44 pm
content: My guess is at least some of these have this inside:

author: DerekG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2017, 02:22:47 am
content: Quote from: 001 on November 19, 2017, 05:21:20 pmAsk for the spec sheet & then test it to the max if you need the entire power dissipation rating.Run it for hours on end to check that it survives.If you only want to run it at half of the power rating, then it will probably be fine. Again test it for many hours/days just to make sure.
Question about going Pb-free - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Sparks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2017, 06:58:20 pm
content: For a while I've been wanting to go RoHS compliant and the largest hurdle for me has been the dreaded Lead free solder. I have heard of the tin whisker problem yet have never experienced problems from it. My question is about the high tin content in solder reacts to cold environments. Does the so called tin pest occur in electrical solder?

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2017, 09:28:04 pm
content: pure tin solder or plating plus moisture plus retained stress seems to be the recipe for the whisker formation. I saw some whiskers on a particular batch of Xilinx chips that had pure tin plating, plus the gull-wing leads were apparently formed AFTER plating. I was using a tin/lead solder, so did not heat them enough to anneal the tin plating, and whiskers grew, RIGHT at the bends, only.I do a lot of manufacturing with SAC305 solder, and have not had any problems with those boards. That is about 1000 boards in the field, but almost all P&P and reflow, not hand soldering.Jon
What standards for commercial kitchen manufacture UK? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Mattylad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2017, 03:11:52 pm
content: Hi, is anyone here manufacturing commercial equipment for the catering industry?I'm trying to find some standards that apply to the manufacture of electric bains marie, hot cupboards etc.Cheers.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2017, 03:44:56 pm
content: I've no real idea but I do know one thing that might be helpful. The standards for sizes of the trays and bowls that go in catering equipment are called "gastronorm"; it's quite possible that the gastronorm standards extend to other aspects of catering equipment.

author: Mattylad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2017, 01:07:53 pm
content: Cheers, unfortunately I don't think it does - its just the size of the containers -https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gastronorm_sizesI'm thinking more on build standards, the application of the low voltage directive, the EMC directive, and any other standards that may apply?

author: Mattylad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2017, 09:07:16 pm
content: Isn't that for installations though?The same with BS7671, its referring to installations and not the manufacture of equipment.So this is not an "electricians" question, more of an electrical assembly one.Which is why I'm asking.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2017, 09:14:39 pm
content: Unless there are product-specific standards, generic standards for EMC and safety (LVD) would apply.'Kitchen equipment' is too generic a category to have a product-specific standard, but there might be some for specific equipment with particular issues- I'd imagine there's probably something for microwave ovens for example, maybe also induction hobs.

author: Mattylad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2017, 08:09:41 pm
content: Just in case anyone else wants to ask the same question and find this thread, I have found that:IEC 60335-2-50-2008 is for Electric Bain Marie's.IEC 60335-2-49-2008 is for Electric appliances for keeping crockery and food warm (hot cupboards).
mid entry level reflow oven solution - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: crunch_tone
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2017, 04:58:48 pm
content: Hi there!I work in small company and we have production line. We already have chinese (QiHe to be exact) SMT stencil printer and SMD machine in our possesion. But our reflowing solutions are really weak. We tried old Puhui 962 and it works really awful. Also we tried to use IR heating station for reflowing, but it works bad too, it's suitable only for prototypes. And now we're looking for stable working 4 zones reflow oven solution. Of course I would like to find best quality/cost value. And of course I keep in mind that it will be chinese solution too. Please share you thoughts or maybe experience? Any help would be appreciated. And I'm sorry in advance if there was the same topic on this forum.

author: John_ITIC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2017, 11:12:29 pm
content: I have this and it gives professional results:https://www.ddmnovastar.com/reflow-ovens/low-volume/gf-c2-ht-reflow-ovens. I believe around $4K. Anything lower cost than that and you'll end up with amateur results, especially with an IR-type setup. I used it for prototype work but it would be possible to use for batches of a handful boards. For many tens of boards, you may want to choose a conveyor-type, multi-zone reflow oven.
USB connector auto planting. Does it work? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: alinp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 22, 2017, 10:19:28 am
content: Using the following micro USB B Type Receptacle (http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/18/10118194AC-944303.pdf) would the stencil solder paste fill in the through holes for usual auto planting (pick&place) or would it not?

author: asmi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2017, 03:16:35 pm
content: I solder these thru pins manually after reflow. I doubt you can put in enough solder paste that it would solder reliably during reflow (and not create bridges elsewhere in the process), so I didn't even make openings in the stencil for them. It takes just few seconds anyway.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2017, 02:28:57 am
content: Follow the 2 small paste apetures underneath it as per the datasheet, for flowing a bit more solder in them, i have extended the pads for those holes out from the footprint and having a full paste density for that pad where it was outside the part, just fair warning this did spray a few solder balls loose on about 5% of my last run, reducing the paste apeture would likely have put me in the clear.

author: 48X24X48X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2017, 11:26:15 am
content: Did mine with 4 through hole post, it works great and the bottom of boards also have the solder. No USB micro connector came off yet for 500 pieces of board. Soldering manual is okay if you have few boards and the residue left from hand soldering makes it look messy.
3D PCB printer & printing cost ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: randsl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2017, 01:30:35 am
content: hi,Just saw this awesome 3D printer :http://www.nano-di.com/3d-printerLooks like there'll be more PCB printers soon from other manufacturers as well..BTW, What's the price range of this one? has anyone inquired?Any idea of the production cost of a PCB (may be cost /sq. inch)?cheers,

author: mairo
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 25, 2017, 01:40:43 am
content: There is already a topic on this:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/dragonfly-2020-3d-printer/The cost in AU would be in the mid AU$300k (yeshundreds of thousands), I am guessing this in US$ would be somewhere in mid 200k?

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2017, 02:24:37 am
content: the part i have never understood with these printers is why they go with the conductive ink approach, when for rapid prototyping, you generally want a copper wire, I always assumed they would get a 1 oz thick bit of wire, as its extruded coat one side in a UV setting epoxy then as its drawn along the board pulse a UV laser to cure the wire to the board,You could combine this with a conventional printer if you didnt care about it being fibreglass, using a powder fusing printer for the core / prepeg. having a head pop over and spool copper in circles up the via or throughholes,

author: Yellofriend
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2017, 08:06:16 am
content: Quote from: Rerouter on September 25, 2017, 02:24:37 amThere is an old and near forgotten technology called Multi-Wire PCBs:http://www.hitachi-chemical.com/products_pwb_05.htm

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2017, 08:34:43 am
content: I'm only seeing renders.
What is This PCB Cleaning Solution made from. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2017, 06:23:45 pm
content: This is the best product i've found to clean solder stencils, and boards with. It really does a great great job. However i can't seem to buy it in anything more than 1L containers at redicolus prices from Jaycar.. ( who sell it rebranded ).." Kleanium™ Printed Circuit Board & Electronic Parts Cleaning Solution is a blend of biodegradable solvents and detergents in water. PCB Wash comes ready to use and can be safely use in ultrasonic tanks for various applications including: metal parts degreasing, flux removal, cleaning of sensitive electronic parts. "http://www.chemtools.com.au/product/electrical-electronics/electronics-cleaning-chemicals/pcb-flux-remover/Does anyone know what it might comprise of?

author: stmdude
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2017, 06:37:58 pm
content: The SDS (Safety DataSheet) says it's mostly ethanol and water.http://www.chemtools.com.au/download/technical-and-safety-data-sheets/electronics-production-and-rework/CT-PCBW%20PCB%20Wash/CT-PCBW%20SDS.pdf

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2017, 12:06:10 am
content: Ethanol 64-17-5 15-24 1880 not setOther non hazardous ingredients various 5-15 not set not setWater 7732-18-5 to 100 not set not setThis is a commercial product whose exact ratio of components may vary slightly. Minor quantities of other nonThe " non hazardous Ingredients " bits is kind of important

author: dmills
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2017, 02:32:30 pm
content: Quote from: mrpackethead link=topic=96040.msg1313354#msg1313354That does put a crimp in the proportion of Carbon Tet allowed, and probably means that ClF3 and F2O2 are right out, cleaners have gotten boring over the last 20 years or so.....Regards, Dan.

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2017, 07:48:44 pm
content: Well the entire mystery is no longer important, as i have been able to connect with the NZ distributor and since we want to buy it in commerical quanitys ( 20L drums ) all is good!

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2017, 07:58:57 pm
content: Quote from: mrpackethead on September 30, 2017, 12:06:10 amBlue die maybe?
Topping off solder pot - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bpiphany
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2017, 05:20:52 am
content: I have a solder pot that I use to dip solder headers on my small projects. I like it a lot over hand soldering all those joints..I filled the bath up with lead free Sn96.5Ag3.0Cu0.5solder, and I will soon need to top it off with more. There's plenty of dross formation, probably more than what ends up forming actual joints.. Still the time saving is a blessing.My question is if there's a better alloy to top off with to have a better chance of keeping the composition of metals correct. I obviously have no way to analyze what's actually in my pot. I dip only "gold flash" boards, and do the occasional tinning of wires.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2017, 07:27:55 am
content: Quote from: bpiphany on September 22, 2017, 05:20:52 amIs that video *your* pot? It seems like you don't keep much solder in it. Unless you regularly replace a significant part of the solder volume with fresh alloy of the desired composition, you are liable to run into problems with buildup of gold, nickel and copper, and loss of tin by oxidisation eventually resulting in poor wetting and brittle joints due to unwanted gold and nickel intermetallics. Without quantitative analysis of the alloy, topping up with other metals or alloys will do more harm than good. With analysis, there may be some benefit in adding pure tin as it will be lost at a higher rate, or using Sn96.5Ag3.5 for bulk replenishment to compensate for copper buildup.The most cost effective option for a small pot would be to buy SAC305 bar solder, and be prepared to dump the existing solder when you notice an excessive melting point shift or it gets too 'claggy'.

author: bpiphany
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2017, 01:52:09 pm
content: Yes, that is my pot. I was more concerned with which metal was primarily skimmed off in oxide form. But probably tin then? The bars available seem to be either SAC305 or pure tin. So if anything else than SAC305 pure tin would be the candidate.In total I've added the full 2.5lb bar by now (roughly 1kg).Say that my pads are 1mm diameter (including the header pin filling the hole), 40 per board, and I've done 1000 boards, then that equates to about 125000mm².How thick is the plating? I have no idea, say 1µm. If we assume all the plating dissolves we're at 125mm³. In pure gold that is 2.5g. Dissolved into 1kg that is 0.25%Some of those contaminants would have left the pot in joints, which also the base alloy have done. I'm not going to try to make up a differential equation based on shaky assumptions over that =DI have no idea how off that calculation was, what concentration of gold is bad, how much other junk the chinesium headers release..I think your advise to simply add SAC305 until the solder stops behaving is sound. Nothing I build is particularly critical.
Manual solder paste printing (tool) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: IanJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 18, 2017, 03:47:13 pm
content: Hi all,Thought I' share, bought these from Ebay.co.uk and they seem just about right for manual stencil paste printing.Ebay description:Mannesmann Flexible Metal Filler Scraper Set 4pcs. Car Body Filler VPA GS TUV£1.99 free postage.Set of four: Blade widths are 50mm, 80mm, 100mm, 120mm.Ian

author: Mattylad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2017, 06:40:54 pm
content: ISTR In the UK these are available in Poundland.
Name of a vintage PCB manufacturing technique. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: truhlik_fredy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 08:29:30 pm
content: I tried to google for a half day and I can't find it at all. There is a technique which was applied to miniaturize the PCBs, they were 2 boards and components were sandwiched between them, but all the components (through hole) were vertical and each component was connecting to both boards.I found few techniques which are bit similar to this, but I can't find this one. I would be so happyif somebody could give me hints or point me to the right direction.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 08:47:22 pm
content: https://hackaday.com/tag/cordwood-construction/Also,http://www.jhuapl.edu/techdigest/views/pdfs/V01_N1_1961/V1_N1_1961_Cordwood.pdf

author: cvanc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 08:47:36 pm
content: "Cordwood", if I recall correctly.

author: truhlik_fredy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 09:18:06 pm
content: Yes It's cordwood, thank you very much Ian and Cvanc. I was thinking that i'm going insane, I was looking at the history of PCB and other ways making board and there was lot of other approaches, but this one looks very hard to find, even when you try looking for it

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 09:37:31 pm
content: Its still occasionally useful e.g: when prototyping a large diode matrix*on stripboard - but for your sanity, don't build it fully sandwiched in case you make a mistake or damage a diode. Instead, for the top cross connects use the thickest tinned copper wire you can solder through drilled out holes without breaking the strips, bent to form a leg either side of the matrix, with all the diode top leads formed to hook over the wires. Stagger the legs in two strips either side of the matrix to allow for track cuts, and fly-wire them back to the rest of the logic.* One possible application would be as a decoder for a multiplexed starburst display. Drive 1 of N lines of the matrix and directly hook the other side of it to the 14 or 16 segment pins. I've built a 7 segment HEX decoder in sandwiched cordwood, which is why I do NOT advocate sandwiched cordwod construction any more!
Extract Fumes into Dryer Vent? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Proxy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2017, 06:51:35 pm
content: Hello,I want to add a fume extractor hood to our e-lab to vent the fumes outside.It would be simplest to tap into the dryer vent which runs across the ceiling of the e-lab.If I put in valves in the dryer vent so the solder fumes don't backflow into the dryer will this work? Is it a good/bad idea?Cheers!

author: Geoff
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2017, 07:13:14 pm
content: Does the cost of adding a second vent exceed the cost of adding valves etc. and the risk of a failure contaminating your things? And what price do you put on any peace of mind in keeping it separate?

author: Mattylad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2017, 04:14:08 pm
content: I'd be more concerned with the dryer venting into your elab, there is plenty of moisture coming out of those things.

author: Proxy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2017, 09:36:44 pm
content: Yeah we'd have to put in backflow preventers both ways

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2017, 12:00:50 am
content: With the backflow preventers in place, yes (in terms of the plumbing).The real trick IMHO is to make sure the fan you use can generate enough static pressure on the exhaust side. Using some sort of flexible intake duct will reduce the fan requirements vs. what would be required for a range hood (assumes same duct lengths), as it doesn't have to draw in a lot of additional free air just to draw in the fumes at a sufficient rate to keep them out of your face.

author: ChuckDarwin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2017, 07:43:43 pm
content: - If you want to be code compliant (USA) [select icon:], dryer vents shall be independent of all other systems and convey moisture to the ouside of the structure.- The dryer vent is likley coated with lint and it will receive moist air when the dryer is running. Depending on your fume compositions, the trapped lint could start to smell pretty bad and could also trap acids which will corrode the vent if it is metalic.- If you use the dryer venting, think about ensuring there is no back-flow, install a damper/diverter, and ensure that the vent termination can't get blocked--such as a lint-filled grill at the terminus. Clean the vent out every now and then (robot project).- If you don't want to run large ducting, transition the extractor duct into a smaller duct that uses a replacable, higher velocity in-line fan.[corrected typos]

author: Proxy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2017, 05:03:06 pm
content: Code compliance might actually be an issue since we get random fire marshal inspections.

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2017, 11:36:10 pm
content: I would look into a heat recovery ventilator which is a balanced pair of fans (one in, one out) with an (usually X oriented) heat exchanger between them.They allow ventilation year round. You can site its return i.e. exhaust(s) near your workbench(s).
Manufacturing Costs of PCBs. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2017, 08:56:27 pm
content: there is so much talk about how the cost of PCB's are incurred. I've visited a few fabs and also have asked Lots of questions.. Theres no relaly clear answers, but heres some things i've learned.- Smaller holes = more expensive. .3mm drills last about 5x as long as .2mm drills on average.- Green Mask/White Silkscreen For what ever reason Green is the most common. They use the most of it, its the cheapest- Lead based HASL finish is the cheapest.. and its almost certainly what the shared panel services use.. ( thats how you get the super cheap pcbs ).. Sadly HASL is'nt much good if you are doing machine placement and have Leadless legs on parts where pcbs need to be flat. Suck it up, your using ENIG or OSP- The fault rate for larger pcbs is higher than small pcbs, and the $/area goes up as the area goes up. IF the fault rate for say a 100x100mm pcb is 1%, a 400x400mm pcb is 1+1+1+1% or 4% ( the actual numbers will vary for actual real pcbs ).. Addditinally smaller pcbs are easier to fit into shared panel services.I'm sure that you will all have somethign to add.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2017, 09:35:21 pm
content: Did you see the feranec video:Its a bit long but he did mention the ~6 mil drill will only last 100 holes. Whereas a 12mil (0.3mm) will last thousands of times.Cost is ~$2-5 per drill.https://www.crownhill.co.uk/01920.html

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2017, 09:39:16 pm
content: Quote from: mrpackethead on September 01, 2017, 08:56:27 pmsmaller drills probably also have to be run slower, and may not be able to drill through as many stacked panels in one go.The same applies to routers for slots - 1.6mm is typically where it gets more expensiveQuoteFor any other colour they probably also need to need to clean equipment, and there will probably some wastage whenever they finish a batch with a different colour.Quoteand forget OSP if you want your PCBs to stay solderable after SMD reflow - e.g. for through-hole parts. More so if they will be sitting around for a while before more soldering is needed._Good_ HASL can be OK for flatness but results can be variable.PCBs with a lot of pads can incur additional bare-board test costs
Adapter board ssop mismatch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MasterT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2017, 12:39:38 pm
content: HI,I've got some adapter boards from Chine, and traces doesn't match to chip footprint. Here is the question:1. Is it manufacturing fault?2. Made this intentionally to accommodate temperature extension of the chip?If second, how to solder IC on this boards w/o using heat gun or reworking station?

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2017, 01:25:51 pm
content: You've got the wrong adaptor board. TheMAX2410 datasheetstates the package is 28 QSOP and the pin pitch is 0.025" (0.625mm) but your adapter is for SSOP4-28 and 0.65mm pitch.For a one-off your best option is to hand solder the middle 6 pins of each side as carefully aligned as you can, then bend the 4 remaining pins at each end to get them onto their pads.