hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Hakko–style soldering tips – recommendation for good ones? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2019, 01:43:51 pm
content: Hi!I have to confess being a bit bewildered by this one as there's so much comment about fake tips, etc!Can any Member recommend a reputable listing for Hakko/Yuiha, etc., soldering tips please? I bought one of these cheap packets of 12 but they don't seem to have very good heat capacity – I have to turn the station up to 515°C before it solders like the Weller I use at work!Alternatively, if any Member can recommend a good handle, element type and the correct tips I'm more than happy to go the "Heathkit" approach and put my own parts together!The soldering station is one of those inexpensive black thingys with two 3 digit LED displays, two control pots and two on/off rocker switches, one for the iron and one for the hot–air tool!My apologies for not quoting a model no. – I couldn't find one on it!I'll post piccies later tonight when I get home!Chris Willams

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2019, 07:58:04 pm
content: One might assume T12 clone kit, but you should probably include that information. The Hakko T18/900M irons and their clones are still possibly the most numerous on the planet.You could buy a genuine Hakko tip and a cheap iron temperature tester. The kit station you have might either be underpowered or way out of calibration. Not that the latter matters too much as long as you have the range you need. I mean... does your station go higher than 515C? Maybe it goes to 1000? LOL. (Or maybe it is displaying temp in Farenheit).

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2019, 03:44:38 pm
content: he's describing one of the 900M + hot-air units.
whats the lowest billing tool restoration you will do? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2019, 02:03:58 am
content: If its a common tool, and you price yourself out per hour vs the tool cost, what is the cheapest you will bother working on something?For me when it gets under like 5$ per hour I have serious trouble unless its somehow interesting. And that low number is infrequent work that has a maximum time of doing per couple of months or so. Or I feel insane.
PACE ADS200 transformer audible noise - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jako
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 19, 2019, 06:35:40 pm
content: Dear community,I've just bought ADS 200 soldering station and everything seems to be working perfectly.Just one concern that I have is the audible noise of the transformer, especially when tip is heating up/under load.It is not loud, but definitely hearable.Also in some cases after turning on main power switch on I can feel instatnt vibration kick with my hand on the chassis.My questions for the owners of this station - did you encounter similar transformer behaviour?I have a 230VAC version.It is just normal transformer-ish noise, but on the other hand I didn't hear it in the video reviews.Thanks in advance for any feedback.Best regards,Konrad
Filter before fan on solder fume window extractor? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Sabrosa
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 22, 2019, 05:04:00 pm
content: I'm building a solder fume extractor for my workbench and am debating including a filter before the fan to cut down on flux smoke residue building up inside the fan where it would be difficult to clean. I know you want to avoid breathing the fumes, but I'm less sure on whether the dust or residue is also dangerous and would make a mess of the fan over time.I have a 4"Vortex VTX400220 CFM inline blower and speed controller lying around unused that I'll hook up to a set of Loc-Line 2.5" hose and nozzle for the intake and run 4" flexible ducting to a dryer wall cap mounted in foam board or similar so that it can be temporarily placed in a window during use and exhaust all the fumes directly outside.Here's a quick sketch of the room, which has an outside door I can open to allow crossflow and intake of fresh air:I looked around and found only a few options for intake filter boxes. For it to be effective on smoke you'd likely want at least a MERV 13 filter and so far the only ones I've seen are theHVACQuick CFB-6andFantech FB6, both 6" requiring adapters and around $100. 4" intake filter boxes are available fromCan-Filters,HVACQuick, andS&Pthat use MERV 5, 6, and 8 filters, although it might be possible to cut a MERV 13 HVAC filter to fit.This is for an occasional hobby set up and not a production line, so my concerns are more around keeping me and my equipment safe. What are your thoughts on including an intake filter versus exhausting directly through the fan and outside?

author: Tetzly
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2019, 05:38:01 pm
content: Quote from: Sabrosa on February 22, 2019, 05:04:00 pmI just finished installing a similar setup. I'm exhausting directly outside, but want to filter the fumes to keep the fan and ducting from getting gunked up. A fan at 250 cfm was too much for my room, and was warping the door from the back pressure. I stepped down to a smaller 40 watt 4" model at about 80cfm. The actual hood i'm using is 3", and I was planning on cutting some 3" circles out of a carbon filter sheet, gluing them together to make a cylinder shape and just plug it in the hose near the hood.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2019, 06:14:58 pm
content: Some filtering makes sense, However I don't think one would need a really fine filter. I would more like look for the coarse filter used for air-conditioning units or home ventilation.The filter before the fan can help to keep noise down an avoid sending pieces of paper, foil or fibers through the fan. I would not worry that much about deposits. The one stuff I an most worried about in the fumes ishttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acroleinthat can be formed from decomposition of flux. It essentially is a gas at low concentration.
Any experience with Manson DPD-6015 or recomendation for a similar PS ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2019, 08:09:36 am
content: Hello, I consider buying this chinesium PS as there is nothing else in this range that I can afford in DE and I was wondering if somebody has any experience with it, or the other related models: DPD-1830 and DPD-3030 ?Data sheet here:https://www.thiecom.de/ftp/manson/dpd6015/manson-dpd6015.pdfOf course, if you can suggest some hidden gem with similar parameter under 250EUR, it's most welcome.Many thanks,DC1MC

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2019, 08:41:57 am
content: Note these are HongKongesium not Chineseium and there is a very big differenceWell built and finished.3030 thread herehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/manson-dpd-3030-ps-modifications-possible/msg886288/#msg886288Dave took a look through one of their Single supplies and I have had the 0-15V @ 60A for 10 years I guess.https://youtu.be/bX8IIjf15qY

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2019, 09:19:36 am
content: Thank Mr. Bean, it seem that the one that Dave dissected it's SMPS and (I hope) the DPD it's linear.Anyway the DPD-3030 thread seem to be what I need, did you ever installed the multi-turn pots and output switches in the end ?To me, right now the biggest drawback it's the single turn poti, 60V divided 270 degrees it's not too much precision.But if the multi-turns works OK, then it's perfect, they're usually much more stable than the carbon ones.Any chance of a schematic somewhere ?Thanks and cheers,DC1MC

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2019, 09:52:37 am
content: You are correct on Switchmode my 60A runs well under 20mV under heavy loads it was more the tour of the build quality than anything. Hit up @shock for another opinion on the 3030 and I think he has another Manson as well?Never found a schematic for the 3030 but I do have multiturn pots on mine now but haven't done the current set relay thing as discussed in the thread. The 6632B aquisition sees it getting a bit less use. 3030 is Linear and has relay shifting mid range btw.
Playstation  2 fat disk reading - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: particleman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2019, 04:07:24 pm
content: I'm setting up a vintage gaming area, Win98/ old consoles. I have cleaned and lubed the drive drawer and cleaned the entire box. The issue is it takes a long time to read disks I changed the laser still the same issue. I put in a disk the drive spins up the laser flashes one time the drive spins for about 30 seconds and stops and then, nothing. It sits not spinning/no laser for about 50 seconds EVERY time. Then the disk spins up, instantly is found and plays. From what I have seen this should not take that long and the disk should spin up and play the first time. This is a 30001r if that helps.

author: Reformatt
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2019, 03:50:45 am
content: Do the spindle and sled motors spin freely? Given the age, the lubricants are usually gone by now and when mixed with dust make them pretty tight. Also look for dead spots in the motors too. I had nothing but trouble with replacement lasers on old PS2's years ago. They were all dud out of the box usually.

author: particleman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2019, 03:28:08 am
content: Thanks for the reply. I ended up soft-modding with HDloader and Open-PS2-Loader. I ordered a NIB 250GB, 7200RPM, IDE Barracuda and ripped all my games to the drive. Loads fast now. I would have blamed the laser but I never get a disk read error just long load time and it was exactly the same with the old laser. The whole drive was tore down lubricated and cleaned. I don't usually like to leave things not working 100% but this I can live with. It plays CD's and DVD movies with no issue except the minute and 30 second load time and using the HD is a huge improvement with in game loading. It was a fun project.
Flex PCB Insertion Tool - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tarun172
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2019, 07:55:50 pm
content: We are trying integrate a new flex PCB design in our manufacturing process. Part of this process, requires us to insert portion of flex PCB into a connector. Is there a standard tool available that you would recommend?- tarun172

author: nsrmagazin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2019, 01:54:33 pm
content: That seems unwise. What will hold the PCB inside of the connector, why not put it a little further inside or outside of the connector?

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2019, 12:29:16 am
content: I think he means a tool for helping insert a gold fingered bit of the flex board into an FPC connector. So something like a tweezer for the manual assembly part, to help getting what is essentially a thin, floppy ribbon into an itsy bitsy connector with minimal time and effort. Without buggering the job. Bending the board and breaking traces, and whatnot. Fingertips might be too large to get into where this has to happen.The ideal tool depends on the exact job. Maybe straight tweezers, bent tweezers, forceps straight/curved. Perhaps some silicone or plasti-dip on the ends for grip could be useful.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2019, 02:06:51 am
content: Rubber tipped tweezers might be the go here. Soft to not scratch, and the rubber gives grip.

author: tarun172
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2019, 07:56:21 pm
content: @nsrmagazin. TO KL27x point, Yes. That is what I was looking for. I experimented with soft tweezers with little success. Was wondering if there is a standard tool available. Could not find any on Digikey, Mouser, Newark and Allied.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2019, 11:45:44 pm
content: If there is a dedicated tool for this, I have not heard of it.FPC ribbons usually have a "stiffener" in the form of a tab on either end. This adds some stiffness to keep the end from bending too much. And for the final push/seating, you can grab the ribbon behind this neck so there's a ridge to push against.I don't know if this is feasible to do with your project, but all FPC manufacturers can add extra things like this for an added cost. You've probably already spec'ed the connector and have matched the board thickness, so this is not likely a realistic option. Plus, your connector might be double-sided. Even in these cases, you might consider adding a strip of stiffener just a bit outside of where the connector ends, just to give that ridge to push against. Maybe a 0.2mm polyamide stiffener.
Weller WQB 3000 OPS - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jinzo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2016, 06:39:14 pm
content: Hi,I could probably buy a Weller WQB 3000 OPS device, if I can test it out. But there lies the problem, the seller can't find the Software CD or any english documentation.Does someone own this device? Someone knows where I could get software so I can test it out? Any experience with this equipment?Any info would be highly appreciated,Thanks.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2016, 11:00:26 pm
content: FWIW, my Google-Fu came up with the following:WQBS 4000SOP BrochureWRS3000 Rework StationBGA/QFP Rework & RepairWHA 3000P Hot Air StationBGA/QFP Rework System WQB 4000SOPS Operating InstructionsWQB4000 Installer 2.14.exe(suspect this will work fine with the 3000 series models)Hope this helps.

author: blacksheeplogic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2016, 01:15:28 am
content: Quote from: jinzo on August 11, 2016, 06:39:14 pmAlthough the WQB4000SOPS is more recent, you can still order the WQB3000 from Weller.The obvious first step would be to contact Weller and ask for the software. My guess is that they will give you either a link or there will be a nominal charge for the CD. Also, the drivers for the camera can be downloaded directly from IDS (have to register first).

author: jinzo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2016, 10:43:12 am
content: @nanofrogUnfortunately the WQB 4000 Control doesen't work with WQB 3000 OPS. Thanks for your effort!@blacksheeplogicI contacted my local importer and they want a non-trivial amount for the software and manual (a lot more than I am willing to spend just to try to get something working). I'll write to Weller proper, and see what they have to say. I hoped someone has the device and cd and would be willing to share. But let's see what Weller HQ has to say.Regarding the camera it's Baumer optronic CX05c-K01 with RJ45.

author: Mem
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 07, 2018, 09:31:47 pm
content: Hello, you still need the software. I also have this rework statoin. I also have software

author: Mem
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 17, 2019, 05:49:08 pm
content: version informationCD version 2.41- changed WQB3000 control operating instruction to Version 4.1added: system requierements RS232- added folder with "Teach-In files leadfree" to WQB3000_control SoftwareCD- Version 2.40- changed WQB3000_control_software from version 2.30_CF/2.31_CF to 2.40_CF

author: Mem
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 17, 2019, 05:53:10 pm
content: I just do not know how to place zipped files on the site

author: Rupke
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 06, 2019, 09:38:56 pm
content: I also didn't have the software but I downloaded from the Weller-tool.com see link:https://www.weller-tools.com/professional/EUR/de/Top-Menu/Download+Center/Software+UpdatesOn this side you find,WQB 3000 Software with drivers ·[352.14 MB]you can download it after easy regitrationAfter install you have, WQB3000 Control 3.00_CFGood luck
Braided copper hack, hard on the teeth and gums (pic) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: billbyrd1945
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2019, 02:08:09 am
content: Can be pre-fluxed, easily pushed back in (cap stays closed in practice, creates desired friction).

author: timelessbeing
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2019, 02:30:43 am
content: If you have braces or fillings, can you put it in your mouth and light an LED?

author: billbyrd1945
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2019, 02:46:49 am
content: "If you have braces or fillings, can you put it in your mouth and light an LED?"Yet, another benefit!
Any ideas on what this custom built test equip is? variac/iso trans? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: guy232
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2019, 07:34:54 pm
content: I've been searching around my local area for equipment to add to my bench and stumbled upon this:(Note: I added labels to help point out the smaller details)http://imgur.com/a/pdcYNmoThe seller doesn't know much about it besides that her husband built it for "research on the effect of oersted on magnetic particle inspection".With my limited knowledge it appears to be an isolation transformer or variac type device but I'm not sure so I thought I would post the internals and see if anyone had any ideas.The internals appear to be neatly set up but not sure if this is something I should avoid or consider.Cheers.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2019, 07:57:27 pm
content: Its a variac, so it doesn't provide any isolation. Wired to cover 0 to above 120V (boost) with a suitable miniature circuit breaker matching the transformer current rating (which can be a bit complex for variacs as their rating depends on the wiper position), it could be a very handy bit of kit if you are into small appliance repair or designing and developing mains input PSUs.It appears to be fairly nicely put together, and having both voltage and current meters is an advantage, but if you are short of cash and haven't yet got a decent temperature controlled soldering iron, bench PSU, a decent DMM and a usable scope, unless its a very good bargain you may want to skip this one. N.B. Variac prices are heavily dependent on the current rating. Did you photo the terminal plate of the variac itsself, which probably had some data or a model number on it? If not, what was the max scale reading on the ammeter?
MathCAD and clones - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ahbushnell
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2019, 02:14:27 am
content: I hope this is the correct location for this.I have used MathCAD for many years and think it's great. This software shows math like it would be in a published document but acts as an engineering spread sheet. And one of the most important features is it keeps track of units which has saved me many mistakes.The downside is PTC bought MathCAD. I purchased the MathCAD Prime 5.0 and use it. But it was expensive and I pay support. The down side is the support is not very responsive.I'm looking for a clone. I'm not looking for Matlab or something like that. I like Matlab and use it but it does not keep track of units.Any suggestions?Andy

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2019, 07:46:31 pm
content: I have tried SMath - seemed reasonable. I did use it a while ago so I don't know how good the later versions are.
Degem Electronics LTD Digital Logic System Board? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Tetzly
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2019, 06:01:16 pm
content: These things are at my local auctioneer, I got a 5 dollar bid on them and from past experience most likely will win them for that price, my area is not too hip on tech stuff. And no I don't really know what the hell they are, I assume some sort of digital logic training tools?The auction is for 2 of them, maybe if I win i'll send one in to the mailbag...
Data port cap for NSK calipers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: 6PTsocket
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2019, 09:41:29 pm
content: These were often sold as General/MG or Fowler but made by NSK in Japan. I picked them up at a flea market and they have worked great for years. They were pretty high end in their day. I remember MSC used to carry the data printer. The thing that bugs me is mine was missing the dust cover for the data port. I have tried to identify the connector for years but I think it may be non standard. A D-sub cap will not work. Does anybody recognize this connector? The owner's manual shows there was a cap. I have contacted the companies that sold it with no luck. Thanks.Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
rework station IR6500 OUT2 off - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: RavoLx
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2019, 10:53:33 pm
content: hi everyone i'm new hereas you read i have a problem with my machine as the out 2 does not fade anymore since i changed the configuration, how fixed this problem?I do not know what is the function of OUT1 and OUT2Thank you in advance.
Société Genevoise D'Instruments de Physique (SIP) Dividing plates - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Stray Electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2019, 01:58:19 pm
content: I just picked up a set of dividing head plates similar to thesehttps://www.flickr.com/photos/46491390@N08/albums/72157632298584419, however in somewhat newer looking box and with socket heads screws and an Allen wrench instead of the square head screws shown with this one and the item number on the box is different. Otherwise the plates, handle, and tables are identical. Can anyone tell me what device these were made for? YES, I know about dividing heads and rotary tables. One rather odd thing about these is that they appear to be intended for use on a device that has a 180:1 gear ratio instead of the normal 40:1 ratio. Except for small hand micrometers and small gauges SIP items are rare in this country.

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2019, 02:34:04 pm
content: Looks like rotary tables is your answer. Anything else would require additional shafts, fixtures and posssibly a tail-centre to be a useful bit of kit.About the 20th photo down:http://www.lathes.co.uk/sip002/page6.htmlHowever the text suggests that plates could be fitted, as an optional accessory, to any of "PD" tables.

author: Stray Electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2019, 03:38:14 pm
content: Thanks Andy. The picture of the PD-3 definitely looks like the one that I have. The chart that came with mine has columns for PD-1, PD-2, etc. I was wondering what they meant since the gear ratio seems to be the same in each column.

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2019, 06:17:15 am
content: I don't think those are columns for PD-2, PD-3 etc. I think that is just a listing of the tools that the plates will work with. Notice that the PD-x listings don't really line up with the columns on the one plate. Nice set, SIP made some awesome tools.
Segger Portable Plus, anyone use? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jnz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2019, 10:08:05 pm
content: I need a production programmer and would like to stay with Segger. Their pricing is high and odd. High because $800 for a standalone programmer isn't rock bottom, but odd because I really can't tell why the one with the screen, and battery costs the same as the one without.https://shop-us.segger.com/Flasher_Portable_PLUS_p/5.16.02.htmwithhttps://shop-us.segger.com/Flasher_ARM_p/5.07.01.htmwithoutSegger seems to have a LOCK on dealers so there doesn't seem to be anywhere to get one of these under $800 unfortunately. So, before I buy one, does anyone have experience?
Anyone familiar with programming of Micro Lambda MLSL Synthesizers? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2014, 11:56:20 pm
content: A while ago I picked up a Micro Lambda MLSL-0609 synthesizer. It's rather old (date code 0138), but I have a datasheet and programming info from the same timeframe. There are two commands that you can use to program it. The 'C' command tells it how many frequency steps to go. The 'F' command allows you to enter the frequency directly in MHz.I wrote an Arduino program to control it and found that the 'C' command works. The 'F' command is accepted, but it doesn't really work. There doesn't seem to beanyreference frequency that gives a sensible output.I think that these units are customized at the factory. Does anyone know if the older units or some of the customized units didn't support the 'F' command?I haven't contacted Micro Lambda because I'm not their customer and never will be so I don't want to bother them. Also, since my program works with the 'C' command, this is really just out of curiousity.Ed

author: Velund
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2019, 09:23:12 pm
content: Sorry for replying so late...There is old MLSL synth control software that control it from LPT port (I had to remove dust from my old Pentium/Win98 laptop first). Was able to find correct reference frequency and frequency band of unknown (special order?) MLSL synth.My factory customized unit also had some problems with F command and does not accept L command (lock signal polarity).And, furthermore, it was based on a PIC16F84 chip... Full up to a last program word and there is some undocumented factory commands inside. Sapienti sat.
Weller wecp-20 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Claus1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2019, 12:46:52 pm
content: Hi, i was wondering is it worth to buy second-hand weller wecp 20 with lr-21 iron and 8 used tips for 95 euros. Seems pretty nice. Any experience with this station? Not intrested about all the chinese ones.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2019, 06:36:22 am
content: Quote from: Claus1 on January 21, 2019, 12:46:52 pmDepends on condition and if it's working fine. It's an entry level station and the tips are not super easy to swap as opposed to cartridge tips. If you are limited to that exact budget it might be an ok deal but if the tips are worn then it's less of a deal.For just over 200 euro you can get a new Pace ADS200 which is the best bang for buck station at the moment, has super fast cartridge tip swapping. You will need to buy a tip with the station but they are fairly cheap and high quality.As for the difference, you would notice it straight away as the Pace has an ergonomic aluminum iron silicon grip and a shorter tip work distance which allows more control while soldering.This is obviously new vs secondhand but it just lets you know whats out there.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2019, 06:45:01 am
content: This gives you an idea of the differences in irons. The Weller LR-21 design is about 20 years old (and my guess from looking at older irons didn't change much). The Pace TD-200 is a new iron about a year old but their cartridge tip system has been around for a decade or so and quite reliable.
2013 Amscope SM-4TX-144A old type Trinocular port diameter? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: edvb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2019, 04:26:58 am
content: I bought a 2013 Amscope SM-4TX-144A with the old type trinocular port that you need to screw the bottom port tube into the trinocular port. It is supposed to be 28mm in diameter so a SZMC TV 1/3 reducing adapter can screw into it.The adapter has a male threaded 28mm bottom that screws into the trinocular port and a 25.4mm male threaded top that screws into the camera.Can anyone verify that this is correct?I need to order this before the Chinese New year so any help would be greatly appreciated.ThanksHere is a video for a SZMC TV 1/2 so you can understand what I am talking about. I just need to make sure this is correct.It is a different microscope so need the correct information on the one I am getting used.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsQJZ0I-R0I

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2019, 01:56:48 pm
content: Quote from: edvb on January 19, 2019, 04:26:58 amI have a silly question, what does Amscope say? The scope is only six years old!After you unscrew the third tube, how far above the zoom body photo flange do you see the intermediate image? I do not know Amscope microscopes, but the answer might suggest what they expect you to do.

author: edvb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2019, 02:18:36 pm
content: They do not know. They do not have any to check the diameter.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2019, 03:42:46 pm
content: Perhaps it is time to buy a good calipers, or just buy the adapter and try it – it will probably cost less than the calipers. Do you have a link to the one you are considering?If you want the adapter for taking photos or making movies, you may get sharper results with a couple, optic-less, microscope-to-c-mount, c-mount-to-camera adapters, directly projecting onto the sensor of a micro four thirds camera. But whether that will work depends on the microscope and the height of the afore-questioned intermediate image.Adapters with cheap relay lenses, to give 1/3X or 1/2X, are generally disappointing.

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2019, 03:55:04 pm
content: Quote from: edvb on January 19, 2019, 04:26:58 amI have a W43C1-L54P trinocular microscope bought in early 2014 which looks exactly like the one in the video ( the stand is different) and the original trinocular tube looks the same, and the tube has a male 28mm threaded bottom.
Hot Air Rework Station Hyko 861D+ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: oolloo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2019, 08:34:27 am
content: Are there any issues with this and since it's a hayko can it be modified or hacked like hyko 858?It's on Amazon canada under the seller WalfrontLooks like a Quick but arrives on a hyko labeled cardboard box

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 18, 2019, 09:14:00 am
content: You can be sure it's not nearly as good as genuine quick. 8A fuse for 110V is a first giveaway. It simply cannot be real 1000W. Secondly quick does not have handpiece holder attached to the station.
Hantek DSO5072P Setup / Startup Problems - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: maesoph
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 09, 2019, 05:14:37 pm
content: Having trouble communicating with my Hantek DSO5072P after rebuilding my laptop. I've done all of the obvious, including a manual install of the device drivers, etc. Still can't get past the error below:"PLEASE CHECK THE OSCILLOSCOPE WHETHER ALREADY CONNECTED."Again, done all of the obvious - rebooted everything, reloaded firmware, etc.Thanks for any help you can provide... I am a mechanical engineer but do have a pretty good instrumentation / electronics / programming background and looking forward to getting this unit working again.Once working, would like to do cursor measurements on the laptop so I can broadcast on the big screen for my STEM class to see if possible. To the best of my knowledge, there is little to no documentation on how to use the Hantek software. Need some help here also (eventually)...Mike
Wrist strap ESD grounding point - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: seanspotatobusiness
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 09:48:06 pm
content: I bought this thing for grounding myself (I used to use a mains cable with live and neutral disconnected inside the plug but that uses up a plug socket). I'm going to connect it to my radiator. There are two things about it that I don't understand. The first is what the word "Effect" means on the front and the second is why the studs aren't connected to the green wire like the banana sockets are. I suspect that the answers may be Chinese and permanently outside my comprehension.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 10:16:11 pm
content: Effect is probably just some random wort to take up the space.Studs may be disconnected so that if you want to temporarily unground yourself, you have some place to put the plug. Although the whole thing appears to be made out of metal. Are they actually disconnected?

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2019, 07:08:06 pm
content: There are multiple type of plugs, the plugs near EFFECT word are also used to wrist straps, i use them but banana plug have a better grip! They are disconnected, you can simply solder a wire at back, patching every connector. I have done that to mine.QuoteThey are, no continuity. The metal is isolated with paint or other finish process.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2019, 07:10:54 pm
content: Ok, the first picture was not clear on what those things were. In this case it is just poor design.
TekPower TP3030E 30 V 30 A Switching Power Supply Teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: piguy101
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2018, 01:48:51 am
content: I got a TekPower TP3030E 30 V 30 A switchmode power supply for Christmas. $240 on Amazonhttps://www.amazon.com/TekPower-TP3030E-Adjustable-Switching-Digital/dp/B00PWSDH8C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1545874243&sr=8-1&keywords=tekpower+30+v+30aThe power supply has a 10-turn pot for voltage and a single-turn pot for current. Careful, with 30 A full scale on the pot, you can easily set the current knob way too high!The front display is backlit and is accurate to the nearest digit according to my measurements, though the resolution is only to the nearest 0.1 V and 0.1 A. One more digit for voltage and current would be nice.The unit does not appear to be mains isolated (!) because I measured 50 Vrms between my mains hot line and the power supply outputs even with my meter on LoZ mode.The unit has a fan but I haven't gotten it to run yet. I've done 30 A @ 2 V for a little while and 10 A @ 20 V for a few minutes and still no fan. I hope it is thermally controlled and mine's not broken!The internal construction is not pretty, but it seems to get the job done.The front "aux" output is limited to 5 A and there is a PTC fuse inside to the front panel. Unfortunately, the PTC is touching some electrolytic caps, so that's not so great.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2019, 10:21:43 am
content: Other thread for the same unit :https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/teardown-tekpower-tp3030e-30v30a-adjustable-switching-power-supply/
riced ryobi - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2019, 01:19:08 am
content: I think this old chuck is worth more then the drill press lol

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2019, 02:39:18 pm
content: made in Italy?does that mean it's expensive, goes really fast, and breaks a lot?

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2019, 05:12:28 pm
content: Vin desiel would use it to save the world
Aoyue 474a++ and SMD Tweezers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: LADmachining
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2018, 07:01:53 pm
content: Hi everyone!I have an Aoyue 474a++ desoldering station. I am looking to get some SMD tweezers, and it would be good to know if I can just buy a set of tweezers and plug them into the desoldering station base unit, rather than have to have yet another power supply/base unit taking up space on the workbench.Before I take the plunge and buy a set of tweezers to experiment on, has anybody used the 474a++ power supply with these tweezers? -https://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/aoyue-t001-replacement-soldering-iron-tweezers-for-aoyue-950.htmlThanks, and Happy New Year!Anthony
NEJE JZ-5 Laser artifacts - looking for suggestions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: slow_rider
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2018, 10:49:39 pm
content: I've bought this cheap laser engraver from GearBesthttps://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_276279.htmlThe spec. claim 0.5W laser. The control software does not allow any control over power to the laser diode, only exposure time.Long story short, I've been experimenting with "melting" laser printer toner onto surfaces to mark them and I am getting results all over the place, see pictures below. In most cases I'm getting these dots at the edge of the laser travel, in some cases I don't. It looks like the software is glitching however tech support is not available and in fact GearBest were nice enough and refunded my payment because of this issue.If anyone has experience with these machines and perhaps knows what is causing this please share. Thanks!

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2018, 11:11:00 pm
content: That's quite an impressive result for such a low cost machine. Can you see what it's doing while it's running? You should be able to monitor easily when the laser is on, I would not want to look directly at the machine though, assuming it's using a violet laser there's a LOT more optical power there than it looks like.

author: slow_rider
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2018, 11:24:04 pm
content: @james_s - I have a piece of semi-transparent poly-carbonate that is supposed to make looking at this thing while operating safe. The machine does a raster routine, scanning line by line and turning on the laser when required ( = dark pixel). The shorter the exposure time, the faster the movement would be.One of the problems is that when the time is set to anything but the minimum, I get burning smell from the plastic which is really nasty. I assume that the problem could be purely on the software side or related to the time it takes to the laser to turn off - but this is pure speculation.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2018, 11:35:53 pm
content: That's strange that it uses a raster scan, plotters are almost universally vector as it's a better way of drawing nice clean lines. It does sound like the software is the main limiting factor here, as is usually the case with random Chinese widgets.

author: slow_rider
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2018, 12:18:23 am
content: Quote from: blueskull on December 30, 2018, 12:05:53 amToo bad the MCU is not something I'm familiar with... I guess installing an Arduino + some additional hardware could cause this thing to work however a more series model is just $200 so I don't know my time is worth it :/ Too bad it's a nice little device.
Samsung S9+ Oled Screen Replacement and tear down photos via USB Microscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: simmiv
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2018, 06:35:08 am
content: Hi, I was replacing an AMOLED Screen on a Samsung Galaxy S9+.. Once I took the old screen off, I was curious as to how it is constructed. So here are some photos that show the screen in more detail..The broken screen held together by sticky tape for safety!! The back was also smashed to bits as well, however once I put the phone into a DEX station and connected it to a computer monitor via HDMI, it seemed to function fine.. The DEX station allows you to mirror the screen via HDMI..Once the Gorilla glass is off you can see the AMOLED screen itself. It's pretty dusty, scratched and torn in places, so it's completely dead!Once the AMOLED screen comes off the phone frame, I flipped it over to see the connections. It has a big connector to connect to the main board of the phone. The big flex is also broken out to a 7 pin smaller flex which goes under the main flex.Here is a closeup of the main flex cable. The larger IC is the touch controller S6SY761X.. The smaller one I don't know. It seems to be marked with 8LS51, but I can't find it via Google.Once you fold out the main flexi cable, it reveals the smaller one seems to connect to the back of the AMOLED. The bigger one connects at the bottom front of the screen. It's either glued or made during the manufacturing process..The smaller flexi cable appears to terminate in some carbon tracks on the back.This is a bit of a closeup of the bottom front of the AMOLED screen where the main flexi attaches to it. The bottom of the photo is the beginning of front bottom side of the AMOLED screen.Here are a couple of 100x images of this connection. You can see extremely tiny tracks and what looks like some components inside the plastic!!Here is a side view of the AMOLED screen. It appears to start at the back with a copper foil layer, then a rubber layer and lastly the plastic layer. Of course there is glue in between, plus the plastic layer could have more layers than one..I peeled back the copper and rubber layers on one of the rounded corners.. You can see tracks and some of the individual pixels.. First photo is 50x the second one is 100xAnd finally here are the pixels magnified 100x from the front of the dead AMOLED screen, plus from the new one..Rgds,Simmi
TS100 and TS80 consistency, heat capacity and bugs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: epigramx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2018, 05:50:39 pm
content: I've been researching this topic on and off for a couple of days now and while I don't have personal experience with the specific devices you all ended up with I get the impression there is a lot of variation based on what tip you ended up with and the way you use the devices because there is a lot of variation in turn based on what people see as temperature measured, apparent heat capacity and other aspects of performance, as well as how they see comparisons between the two models.To be precise, on tips:1. Tip type. Does the tip tested have more or less heat capacity than other tips? That might be the biggest difference between the TS100 and TS80 at default tips since the circuitry is doubtful to be that much different.2. Specific tip you ended up with. While a tip is not the most complicated device in the world, there's still a chance to be just faulty or subpar. The pcb will usually either work or not work at all. Tip is less so at that.Now, a second general factor that appears to often come up is power supply:1. Is your power supply proper? Some people seem to test with battery packs of questionable charge and others with reliable 24V bench supplies. I don't know how the device deals with variation but variation in that area may even bug it in some cases. Will its temperature control and measurement be proper in all cases?2. What about power supplies for the TS80 being restricted to lower max power? How far can that let it go? Can the TS100 surpass it with the same tip fitted on it? Is that maybe why they called it 80 and they expect a revision for the 100 to something like "120" perhaps (so there are two models, one more portable than the other)?A third factor may be the software: People seem to report better behavior at heating and recovery with other firmware as if the default firmware can't operate the hardware properly. I don't know to what extend that is true.Anyway, the above is strictly an exploratory post for improving my thinking on those products. Let me know of any thoughts and objections it raises.
AN870 or MS6501 etc or TM902C for solder tip calib? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MT
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2018, 10:28:57 pm
content: Any significant difference in measurement between MS6501, AN870 and TM902C when used for calibrating solder tip temperature? Would the AN870 do? (Assuming DANIU FG-100 is the better one). Just trying to be dirt cheap!https://www.banggood.com/HYELEC-MS6501-LCD-Display-Termostato-Digital-Thermometer-K-Type-Thermocouple-Termometer-p-991761.html?rmmds=detail-left-hotproducts__11&cur_warehouse=CNhttps://www.banggood.com/TM902C-LCD-K-Type-Thermometer-Temperature-Meter-Probe-Thermocouple-Probe-p-1213752.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CNhttps://www.banggood.com/ANENG-AN870-Auto-Range-Digital-Precision-Multimeter-19999-Counts-True-RMS-NCV-Ohmmeter-Tester-p-1268841.html?rmmds=cart_middle_productsBiigclive had problem with the K type on cables! Shouldnt it be possible to hack DANIU FG-100 to use a sensor on cables as well hack a jigg for the AN870 using short sensor like FG100?
600x 4.3" LCD microscope from eBay  Factory FAIL! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rhb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2018, 01:00:56 pm
content: I bought one of these with the metal stand. When it arrived it did not work. After some negotiation I got a partial refund sufficient for me to buy just the head unit.I took the head unit apart this morning. The lithium battery was never fitted to the unit. There is a contact adhesive foam mount for the battery with the film still in place and there are no battery leads installed on the board.I won't know about the sensor until I get a working unit, but the LCD display works. Except for the LED which is a small 2 wire header, all the connections are fine pitch flexible cabling, so replacing the main board would be very simple.Despite it being known at the factory that it did not work, it was packaged with all the accessories and sold to a merchant doing business on eBay. Naturally there is no mention of the manufacturer anywhere on the package or instruction slip.Edit: The back of the unit has a label Shenzen Gao Suo digital Co., Ltd

author: blacksheeplogic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2018, 07:32:25 pm
content: Is it possible that it should work just on USB without a battery (i.e. the battery was optional in the design). What did the documentation say?

author: rhb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2018, 08:15:41 pm
content: The documentation states it has a lithium battery. As it turns out, it does work over USB using camorama on Debian 9.3, but it does not display an image on the 4.3" LCD unless the USB is *only* supplying power.So it appears that if I install a battery it will work as advertised or else I can use it with external power source via the miniUSB port.So I need to return some of my refund to the seller. Rather clearly the seller was not at fault and as things stand has lost money.
Cheapest but good enough IR station? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: orientalsniper
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 22, 2019, 08:32:39 am
content: What's the cheapest IR station I can get to work with phone/consoles/motherboard's BGA?

author: nsrmagazin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2019, 09:28:59 am
content: IR soldering station.http://www.cfcbazar.com/shopcategory/tools/?WordApp_launch=&WordApp_mobile_site=&WordApp_demo=&WordApp_mobile_app=&orderby=latest&order=DESC

author: orientalsniper
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 22, 2019, 07:32:56 pm
content: That's a shopping site, but what's the recommendation nowadays?