2.x mm tip for Xytronics LF-1600 station? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hogwild
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2019, 05:06:01 pm
content: Hi everyone:I just bought a Xytronics LF-1600 soldering station. So far, I think it looks good, but the 1.6mm tips I bought with it just don't have nearly enough heat transfer for my needs.Xytronics, in their wisdom, do not make a 2.x mm tip. The next tip size is about 3.3mm, which is too big for my needs. Does anyone know of any third-party tips that will work reasonably well on a Xytronics LF-1600? I really need a tip size of somewhere in the ballpark of 2.3 mm to do the work I want to do. If not, I'll have to return the station, which would be a shame, because I think it's pretty good quality.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2019, 06:34:29 pm
content: My google-fu suggests that your iron will take Hakko T18 tips. You probably ought to do a sanity check, though. The ceramic heater on a hakko T18 iron is about 4mm in diameter and inserts about 22mm deep into a cavity on back of the tips.Because you didn't specify, my ESP says you are looking for a chisel tip. Hakko makes a 2.4mm chisel and a 2.0 mm long chisel.T18-D24T18-DL2For most electronics work, bevel tips are the most efficient shape for thermal transfer IMO/E. Hakko T18 bevel tips can be had in 2, 2.5, and 3mm. The 2.5 is a "shorty" which further improves thermal transfer. It is also an "F", meaning it is tinned face, only. This gives it some unique characteristics. The chrome can be sanded back if you want a regular bevel, if you're mechanically inclined, at all.The easiest way to see all of Hakko's T18 tips is to use their tip selector webpage. Search: "Hakko tip selector." Select T18 in the 3rd dropdown box, then scroll down and you can see a drawing of all the tips they make, grouped by tip shape/type.900M tips also fit the same irons, but they don't aren't as good at thermal transfer, in general. You usually have to bump your temp a bit to use the equivalent tip type/size.

author: Hogwild
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2019, 07:25:30 pm
content: kl27x:Your psychic abilities are accurate as always. I do want a chisel tip. Dang! I just let go of one of those tips a while back. I guess I should've kept it.If the experiment goes wrong, will it do damage to the iron, or just not work very well?How is a stubby shaped differently from a normal chisel?Finally, my station is 80W rating. It looks like the 900 series might only go as high as 50W (I can't tell, these soldering equip. companies have so much info. but it's so disorganized, hard to find what you want. The FX888 is 65W rating. Will those tips be safe to run in my 80W rated station?Thanks

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2019, 07:56:15 pm
content: If the tip fits similarly to the original, it's all gravy.I suppose you don't have any calipers. If you have a 5/32" drill bit you can use that as a size gauge. This will barely slide into the back of a Hakko T18 tip.If it doesn't fit well on your iron, I wouldn't use it. Dunno how much they cost up north; here, Hakko T18 tips are around 5 dollars each, so at worst you're out some pocket change.

author: Hogwild
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2019, 10:04:35 pm
content: Actually, I do have calipers. You are suggesting I measure the widest part of the shank?

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2019, 04:36:34 am
content: Sure, you could do that, too.OD of the ceramic heater on a Hakko 888 iron = 3.9-4.0 mmlength of the heater that inserts into the tip 22.0 mmOD of the hakko 888 "barrel" that unscrews and retains the tip: 0.302-0.303"OD of the base of a Hakko 900M series tip - 0.249"OD of the base of a Hakko T18 series tip - 0.268"ID of the hole in the back of the tip : 5/32"Metric and imperial. You're from Canada, so that should be no problem.

author: Hogwild
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2019, 03:12:03 am
content: Well, I am generally very regimented, but I just said "to heck with it" and bought the two tips. Thanks to Digikey, they should arrive tomorrow or Wednesday.I will give them a goog testing and post back with my results.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2019, 10:27:29 am
content: There is a German review of the Xytronics LF-1600 on youtube and in the comments he mentioned the same issue with performance on small tips. Make sure you use a decent soldering temp as on long fine tips they do have less thermal performance than the stouter tips.The Xytronics LF-1600 (Taiwan) looks like it evolved from the Hakko 936/937 (Japan). As for the Hakko tip if it's a good fit and similar mass it should be fine. Most tips are manufactured from copper with an outer layer of iron plating. There is a good chance that Hakko manufactures a tip with better thermal performance than Xytronics anyway. Aside from mass the only thing to be cautious of is a tight fit on the heater, it might get stuck.Similar looking to the T18 series (which is derived from the 900M series) is the 900L which is a larger mass (fatter) version of the tip that uses a special collar and nut. Some clone inspired designs are based on this. You can buy the nut and collar as an after market accessory but no idea if this would be compatible with your iron. It might be an option to squeeze out some more performance. Changing mass generally means the temp calibration will be out (temp not matching display) so this is dealt with either using a temp offset or by calibrating the station with a tip thermometer.The Xytronics may have come with an upgraded element and transformer (or you would hope so if they are claiming a higher wattage). The Hakko T18 series is designed for the Hakko FX888D 70W station (65W iron). So depending on the marketing there might be only a little difference in it. The Xytronic does appear to reach 350C/660F in 21 vs 28 seconds on the Hakko, but I'm not sure what tips they are using in either test, this can account for some variance in heat speeds.Hopefully the Xytronics aren't like the mainland Chinese clones which tend to exaggerate performance a little.

author: Hogwild
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2019, 01:11:13 am
content: Well, so far so good with the new tip. It wets very nicely indeed. The tip seems slightly shorter, but seems to fit well.I have a related question (I know...I should post to another thread)....I have a small PCB with solder filled into a couple of through holes. I can't get the solder out. I've tried wicking, multiple times, along with Chipquick flux. The hole is small enough that I guess capillary forces are keeping solder in the hole. I tried heating it from the other side, but there are components there and very little room to insert a soldering iron.I tried using a paper clip to go "inside" the hole and transfer heat to it. That didn't work either.What safely works for removing solder from a very small hole?

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2019, 02:51:32 am
content: Wow, must be tiny if wick doesn't do it.First, I'd try inertial extraction by heating the thru hole then quickly smacking the PCB against the edge of my bench.Second, I'd take out my solder wick. Walk over to the trash can and toss it in. And order some Chemwik. Not necessarily in that order, though.

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2019, 03:01:05 am
content: Quote from: Shock on July 16, 2019, 10:27:29 amXytronic have been making temperature controlled soldering stations for decades. those Dick Smith stations were OEM by xytronics. No real need for them to be making clones or exaggerating performance. they aren't exactly cheapies.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2019, 03:20:59 am
content: Adding flux to the wick and adding flux and solder joint from either side so it flows in the middle can help. Or you can try that with a combination of the below techniques. Heating from one side and desoldering from the other if possible may help as well.Stainless desoldering pins are made for this exact problem, or you could stainless sewing needles with some old cork or something on the blunt end so you don't burn your fingers. Get a hand desoldering tool (solder sucker) if you don't have one. Use an electronic desoldering handpiece.If all else fails use canned or compressed air to blow it out when molten or when the solder is at melt temp quickly tap the pcb, or flick it with your index finger to jolt it out. This if done carelessly can cause you more headaches as solder can splash and if other joints are molten the components can move or be disrupted so only use this as a last resort and if it's appropriate, don't make a habit out of it.

author: Hogwild
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2019, 06:11:04 pm
content: I forgot that last week I took delivery of my Goot desoldering gun. I was skeptical. It literally took 10 seconds to remove that solder joint perfectly.I did a few more joints and they worked out just as well. Hallellujah! What a relief. Finally no more nightmare desoldering scenarios.

author: Hogwild
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2019, 05:01:29 pm
content: Okay, the desoldering gun works great for almost every joint. But sometimes, there's still part of a lead stuck in there, and it's hard to desolder.How do you use the stainless steel pins exactly?And before I forget, thanks for all this help.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2019, 07:25:44 pm
content: There is a "Say Thanks" button for posts you find helpful on the top right side of every post.Heat the joint align the pin. Press the pin into the joint after a few seconds to clear the solder or obstruction. Obviously make sure its the correct size. Sometimes establishing a solder bridge helps, even though it seems counter intuitive to add more solder and flux to the joint it can make things easier. The hole needs to be heated completely through, if your tip is dirty or you are using a low temp that may be part of the problem. You also have to be mindful of not going too high temp or pressing the iron into the pad as you will end up damaging it.