hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
GW Instek GPS-3303 PSU Curious Faults... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: danoki
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2020, 05:30:44 pm
content: Hi,I recently scored a couple of GW Instek GPS-3303 PSUs from the repairs bin to see if I could get one/or both working (been after a split rail PSU for home hobbying for years).I did scour the google and this forum, but didn't turn up much for the particular faults I'm seeing...NB: I do have the user manual (sadly no service manual is available) and I will have a go at the user manual tune up later.The one I'm looking at right now seems generally OK. Opened it up and saw no obvious damage and it had no warm or burnt smells.Curious fault 1:CH2 reports a high voltage when the outputs are disabled (seems to ramp down a bit after a while like a cap is discharging when the PSU is turned on at the mains); for example when in independent mode, CH2 reports 70V+; but when you enable the outputs, all is fine and the voltages report correctly.Curious fault 2:When in "series" mode and the outputs enabled, CH2 seems to be at least 2V higher than CH1 (verified this with external DMMs). Of course I can run independent mode and wire the oututs together manually to get a split rail supply; but that's not the point is it?So why there are "livable" faults; anyone seen this sort of thing before or have any good ideas?Thanks in advance.danoki

author: ArthurDent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2020, 09:42:43 pm
content: Where the power supply has 2 identical channels I would check for voltage differences at corresponding points between the 2. If you have the outputs turned off and there is a high voltage indicated on the meter, higher than the max output , I'd suspect a pass transistor being leaky. It would be like a high value resistor that allows voltage to pass up to the value of the raw supply across the main capacitor for that side.
GW Instek MFG-2200MH wrong FW was used = bricked - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2025, 12:07:00 pm
content: a wrong model fw has been pushed in the MFG-2200 and now its a beeping brick, and no answer from GW Instekchannel 1 fpga config bad, no key presses works once bootedthe fw is available upon registration ----- attached here remove the txt extensionbased on SAM9S35 mcu, ordered an Atmel Ice programmer and downloaded SAM-BA softwares, waiting for the ICE interface to get herean 25L16 eeprom not far from the mcu (maybe cal constants), i'll try to read it onboard, other chips are lan phy DM9161BEP, and an CH375 usb interface, and nand flash S34ML01G100TF100 (that i can not read) no adapters or suitable programmer to do soany ideas if there is a recovery trick like a button press while booting ?

author: ME
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2025, 03:29:56 pm
content: has it got any jtag headers on the pcb?.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2025, 03:29:04 am
content: i think the 10 pins are the jtag, i ordered an atmel iceonce arrived ill try to read what is there ? if it is unlocked ?
GW Instek PEL-3111 calibration method - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Wade2019
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2025, 05:54:57 pm
content: Hi everyone, I bought a GW Instek PEL3111, and the calibration password is 3111.However, when I perform CV calibration, the screen prompts ：CX Mode Offset Error!!I don't know what I did wrong, can anyone help me?

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2025, 12:30:58 pm
content: Is it a new unit ? Just looking at some manuals, I don't see any troubleshooting sections. How accurate is it in CV mode ?https://www.manualslib.com/products/Gw-Instek-Pel-3111-10287212.html
GW instek power supply, PSP series (PSP-405) is not showing the correct current - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: matt6ft9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2020, 01:10:14 am
content: Some history:When the power supply output was turned on, the current would show about 13mA of load, even though nothing was attached. After some trial and error, IC 10, a TL072CF (Dual low noise JFET Op-Amp), was found to have a large temperature dependency. If it was heated, it would show the correct current (0mA) with no load. If IC10 was hit with freeze spray, it would show about 36mA output current with no load.Four replacement TL072CF's were ordered. One was placed into an 8 pin socket on IC10.Now, the current is about 100mA too low.details:-with the 12V output on, the TL072 pin 4 (V--) to pin 7 (2 out)output loadPSP-405 display valuepin 7 voltageopen 0mA 12.30V200mA 100mA 12.66V300mA 200mA 12.85V400mA 300mA 13.04V500mA 400mA 13.23V1A 901mA 14.18V1.5A 1401mA 15.17VMy thought right now is the software calibration is off. The older, 8051 version of the power supply has a calibration procedure. However, this is the newer MSP430 based version of the power supply and doesn't have trimmer pots used in the calibration.Here are some good images of the MSP430 version, posted by another:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/gw-instek-psp-603-60v-3-5a-power-supply-(short)-review-and-teardown/msg1313021/#msg1313021Link to the 8051 version of the calibrationwww.gwinstek.com%2Fen-global%2Fproducts%2FdownloadSeriesDownNew%2F7339%2F1426&usg=AOvVaw3FLPeVyejdBa5HbFCyXFfqSo, does anyone know the calibration procedure for the newer style MSP-430 based power supply? Or, are there any other thoughts on how to repair the current reading offset?Some links were found to power supplies with current reading issues, but they don't seem to be relevant to this specific issue:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/agilent-e3633a-e3634a-power-supply-current-calibration-(13ma-offset)/msg3000344/#msg3000344https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/e3631a-power-supply-showing-70ma-with-nothing-connected/msg786592/#msg786592https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/gw-instek-gps-4303-power-supply-ch2-set-always-low/msg1140106/#msg1140106-Matt
GW Instek PSP-603: no output, erratic current reading - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2025, 07:59:56 pm
content: My well-used GW PSP-603 60V 3.5A supply has failed on me. This supply has faltered before when capacitors went bad on the main switching PSU, but in this case, the fault is not capacitors.Whilst under load, the supply suddenly went to 0V output and indicated a high current draw on the output (several amps). This continued despite the load being disconnected. I suspected that a capacitor or protection device had shorted on the output, but that was not the case; the output measures 100s of kohms with no bias. I then suspected a power supply rail that was out of tolerance but they were all close to rating (+/-15V on my unit not +/-12V but not seemingly an issue). The power supply uses a peculiar DAC, op-amp and comparator to implement a successive-approximation ADC; it uses components from the 90s, and it seems despite the relatively modern assembly date (~2013) it still uses this ancient architecture. Probably a case of not worth re-engineering something that still sold well at the time but certainly odd. I was able to verify that the DAC was functioning correctly and could see the SAR waveform. A series of multiplexers tap off this output to drive current and voltage command. The power supply is primarily switchmode, with a linear follower to reduce noise and improve accuracy. The SMPS stage sits about 5V above the output request which means the linear follower doesn't dissipate more than about 15W average.When placing a 'scope on the current feedback pin from the power supply board (which took some digging to find -this schematic is accurate enough for the digital boardthough the power board is different in a few places), I found a suspicious 50Hz square wave in place of an expected DC (almost zero) current signal. I noticed that pressing on the current shunt the reading went away and the supply no longer showed a short present and appeared to function. In the end, the fault was diagnosed as a bad solder joint on one end of the current shunt. Tugging gently on the shunt broke what was left of the current shunt solder joint and made it clear that this was the cause. My guess is it failed under the heat of the load current causing the observed fault.The shunt was re-soldered and the fault was fixed; I also performed a re-calibration of the voltage and current ranges in case I accidentally altered the calibration.
GWINSTEK GDS1104R  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: hitecelec
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2021, 05:50:53 am
content: Hi AllThe oscilloscope doesnt boot up. Powers on fan working. Front panel lights one or 2 light up and stay that way. No displayAny service manual Available or has anyone fixed this problemThanks in adavnce
gwınstek psp-603 the device does not work - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: byhazin1453
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 07, 2020, 08:08:50 pm
content: Does anyone know about the problem. There is a remote text. no features work. the computer is not connected

author: picburner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2020, 08:25:06 pm
content: Have you tried pressing the "REM" button?

author: byhazin1453
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 07, 2020, 08:55:26 pm
content: yes i tried but no reaction
GWInstek PST-3202 Power Supply Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Nebukad
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2021, 03:26:45 pm
content: Hey guys!I just wanted to tell you about a faily easy repair I recently did on a GWInstek PST-3202 Bench Power Supply.I was completely dead - you could hear the transformer humming when switched on, but there was no beep, the fan was off, the LCD was dark and it did not communicate on any of the interfaces.After some measurements, it turned out, the logic supply on the "logic board" behind the front panel was not reading any useful voltages.It took me a while to figure it out - please have a look at the picture:Some black "gunk" aka. adhesive was used to keep C209 and C214 from "flapping around in the breeze". Sadly, over the years this black gunk went corrosive and atacked all metal it touched - as can be seen where the black gunk got in contact with the heatsink at the top.Some of that gunk found its was under C209. The copper traces are protected by the solder mask, but right around the positive pad for C209, the gunk ate away the connection between the trace and the pad. As a consequence, the power from the transformer could not find its way to the capacitor and the rest of the circuit, so the whole logic was dead. I scraped away all the black gunk, reinforced some partially corroded points with fresh solder, ran a jumper wire to the capacitor and this time used some proper silicone adhesive, to keep the caps in place.This brought the unit back to life.Since this type of gunk was likely used on many if not all of these power supplies, I suspect, this failure mode might be or become typical for these supplies. If it does, I hope, some ppl. find this post and might also be able to fix their units rather reasily.
H.P. 54503a and Similar Series Attenuator Module.Block/Circuit Diagrams? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2023, 06:11:58 pm
content: Hi!Are there known to be any CLIPs in existence for the series of H.P. Digitising Oscilloscopes using those hybrid/relay attenuator modules I can plunder for an (approximate!) Block or Circuit Diagram?Is there any Pinout Information available for these Attenuator Units, even if I can only sketch a block diagram?What about the Time – Base/Trigger modules – anything known about these? Anyone had any experience fault–finding them?Obviously, since these Oscilloscopes utilise waveforms/graticules as raster–scan video generated by a CRT controller there'll be no high–voltage deflection amplifiers (as you'd use for electrostatic CRTs) of course!Chris Williams
hack an Aneng an8008 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: K-Experiment
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2019, 12:33:32 pm
content: I found multiple websites explaining how to properly add/replace some passive components to make it faster and more accurate, but i couldnt access a website by Jackenhack, where I believe this topic originated from.the websites that i found have different answers and different values of said components.I want to know how I can properly hack the DMM so that it would have better results.

author: JFJ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2019, 01:07:47 pm
content: Quote from: K-Experiment on July 24, 2019, 12:33:32 pmThe text from the jackenhack.com AN8008 modification web page can still be accessed via the Internet Archive:https://web.archive.org/web/20180219094020/https://www.jackenhack.com/aneng-an8008-modify-for-better-accuracy-faster-readings/

author: K-Experiment
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2019, 01:52:24 pm
content: Thanks alot, this will help me.
Hacking of  old TDS640 and TDS540  1M, FFT and RS232/LTP Option - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: madao
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2019, 08:15:17 am
content: Hello peopleI have a TDS640 , TDS520 and TDS540 repaired. TDS520 have FFT Option (2F) and RS2327LTP Option (13), TDS540 FFT Option.My researching and info from a forum have a succesfully result. This Hacking run only at old TDS540 and their family without floppy Disk and RTC (real time clock).Thanks to a people of Tek& Keithley Forum.https://forum.tek.com/viewtopic.php?f=568&t=136932&p=287810#p287810Preparing of Hacking is desoldering of NVSRAM or using tektool .Adresse-counting is NVSRAM itself.Pleas see Pictures, green numbers ((adr: 0x01FDCF) is CRC, it is only addition of all Value in this string. But not more than 69.yellow numbers ist Option 13, (adr: 0x01FDED)red numbers ist FFT Option (adr: 0x01FDEF)00 = disabled01 = actived.Both actived, CRC = 69one of both active, CRC = 68If you have more than both option actived, then must "42" (adr: 0x01FDE3) changed to other (lower) value. Important: CRC Value cannot be more than 69.1M Option, i don't know where is it (01 at 42 is probably, but i don't guess)Have a fun with hacking of old TDS540/640.And excuse me for my not fine english.RegardsMatt

author: madao
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2025, 08:18:13 am
content: A little newsI got a TDS540 with 1M optionNow, i am capable to find, where is 1M option savelight green number is Option 1M (addr: 0x01FDE9 )yellow number ist Option 13, (adr: 0x01FDED)red number ist FFT Option 2F (adr: 0x01FDEF)
HackRF One with Portapack: RTC and settings not retained - backup battery OK - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Bicurico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 08:28:46 am
content: HiMy chinese made clone does not retain time, date or settings.Can someone please confirm that it should work and is not some FW bug.What could be broken or missing?Is this probably a fault in the HackRF or Portapack?ThanksVitor

author: Bicurico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 12:36:30 pm
content: I found out what the problem was:The HackRF One used with the Portapack has a shield around the RF part. This shield is exactly opposite to the backup battery.When looking closely I noticed that the pins that hold the (+) side of the Lithium battery were touching the shield, thus short-circuiting the battery and causing the memory loss.By bending the pins over the battery, this was fixed and the HackRF One + Portapack are correctly retaining settings and RTC time+date.I leave this solution for fellow users with the same problem. It is down to the Lithium battery cell holder, which comes with unbended pins.Regards,Vitor

author: gerryk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 18, 2019, 04:12:04 pm
content: Thanks. I had noticed this with mine, but didn't have the time to dig into it.Which portapack do you have?
Hair trimmer needs 110VAC to charge battery...need to modify - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ocset
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2020, 10:01:31 pm
content: Hi,I have purchased a Hair trimmer which turns out to need a 110VAC input to charge its battery. I am in UK.(It cost me £3.78 plus £10.99 P&P)“Nova NS2218” Hair trimmerAmazon (Nova NS2218 hair trimmer)https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B087M7CQBD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1The battery is a 1.2V, NiCd, 450mA , 2/3AA sizeAnyway, I’m going to surgically alter it and charge the battery via a 5V ACDC adapter plug, and put in a 120R series resistor to limit the charge current. (plus a reverse polarity diode).That would give an approx. 25mA charge current. Do you think if I accidentally leave it charging for days, then this current won’t result in overcharge destruction of the NiCd?-----------++++++++++++++++++----------------++++++++++++++(Strangely, the charger electronics in the product has a 22k series resistor , in series with a series rectifier diode, which would limit the charge current to some 2.5mA average…wouldn’t that low charge current just be used up by the battery’s leakage current?)Without a scope or inductance meter i cant give the entire schematic of the "as sold" product, but its something along the lines of the attached

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2020, 10:09:59 pm
content: NiCd can be trickle-charged indefinitely. The original charger is just a rectifier and dropper resistor in series with the mains --- for 240V operation you can add a second 22k in series.
Hakko 470 solenoid - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sampler1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2020, 12:49:19 am
content: Hi all,I have a Hakko 470 with an 802 gun. I have no suction and when I remove the solenoid valve all works fine. I guess the solenoid is toast? Does anyone know the voltage ? Can anyone explain its purpose and function. Also does it even matter if its removed?Regards,

author: ijchan223
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2020, 03:20:58 am
content: i really don't see a reason it is there. My guess is that it is there to hold a small vac in the system so you will get suction faster.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2020, 05:03:47 am
content: The solenoid B1033 opens the spring-loaded valve B1032 to control the timing of suction for the desoldering gun. Specifications indicate that the controller delays 0.2 sec after the button is depressed before suction is applied, and again delays 0.5 sec after the button is released before terminating suction. One reason you would want to use a solenoid to control suction, instead of relying on starting/stopping the pump, is to prevent a pressure pulse from pushing air outward. It also helps to prevent the tip from clogging.The solenoid most likely operates from the main DC voltage which is 24V I think? I have a similar unit I can check.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2020, 06:24:33 am
content: I have a Hakko 470-2 and did a schematic for it herehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/hakko-470-471-de-soldering-station-schematic/msg1298018/#msg1298018There are two timers- one for the solenoid (on delay), and another for both the pump and solenoid (off delay). They have trimpots to set the delay time.When the gun trigger is pulled, the pump starts and after a short delay the vacuum solenoid valve opens, to give a crisper, fast vacuum pulse at the tip.Without it, the tip vacuum would slowly come up and not as clean a desolder joint results.I would check if the solenoid is getting pulsed and that it's not plugged with junk.
Hakko 700 Solder/Desolder Station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Gangway
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2016, 05:05:05 am
content: Having finally located replacement Hakko Gun for my old 700 station, i just noticed something whilst giving the insides a check over.Front earth terminal is grounded to chassis (although paint was under star washer!) now fixed, and earth to AC plug ok.But, BOTH soldering iron & de soldering gun tips are earthed via 200k ohm resistor with small cap across it?Have checked 700, 700B & 700C circuits, which all show tips wired to common earth.This mod was factory fitted since new.Just wondering if anyone else out there with one of these units can verify this.

author: explosivo85
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 05, 2024, 03:07:18 pm
content: The 800L gun seems to be non existinat these days.Do you know of any desolder guns that fit the 700C other than the 800L gun?
Hakko 850d repair pins 10 and 11 on display board ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Wsander12
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 23, 2023, 10:43:45 pm
content: I'm trying to figure out what pins 10 and 11 are and where I can run jumpers to on the back of the display board because the corner there broke off so I'm trying to figure out where those pins connect to on the board. Unfortunately I have to repair this because parts are very scarce even finding a heating element that fits this is difficult.
Hakko 851-2 Does not get hot enough - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: hpxca
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2020, 02:27:21 am
content: Hi There,I don't have any experience with hot air rework stations but I wanted to give it a try. I bought a used Hakko 851-2 at a good price, I was eyeing the 810 but it was pretty expensive new.I was fairly sure when I tested this unit out that it was not getting hot enough, but because of the pandemic I could not test it indoors and had to test it in my garage in sub-zero ambient temperatures so it was fairly hard to be sure. Given the potential issues with it I negotiated an even better price for it and bought it off the guy.I brought it in and tried to remove (without any flux) a 1206 cap off a junk PCB I had. No dice, the cap didn't budge and the solder didn't melt even with both the air and the temperature at maximum. I tried for over 5 minutes and I could not get it to even melt the solder, let alone remove the cap. Due to my inexperience I really have no point of reference on if I am just "doing it wrong" or if the device is faulty. As this is an analog station there is only one light by the heater knob which is solid red for a very short time then starts to flash red. I'm guessing (but do not know for sure) that the flashing red means it believes that it is up to temperature, while solid red indicates heating. The manual is completely unhelpful only saying that the light is on when it has power. Can anyone with one of these confirm the behavior of this light?The airflow of the device seems reasonable so if it is not working odds are the problem is either the heater or the temperature control board. Is there any way to confirm which is actually the issue? The heater seems more likely, statistically speaking.Thanks for any suggestions!

author: Andrew8088
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 03, 2020, 07:11:47 am
content: I just pulled out my new hakko 851 (maybe 10hours) and it is doing the same, when I set it to max the light stays on and it heats up. But other than that the light just flashes. when I have time I will check the pot and wires to torch. as it is low hours I would thing it would be something simple like that.I will be free in January, if you want to take a day figure it out

author: Andrew8088
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 03, 2020, 07:24:44 am
content: Mine spent some time in cold storage over last winter since last I used it
Hakko 936 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: preddy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 09, 2019, 07:17:24 pm
content: hi just bought a genuine hakko 936 which is need of restoring,but for some reason i can't find screwdriver to remove the case screws, is there specific type i need to buy, i thought i had every type imaginable many thx

author: wictor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2019, 07:30:45 pm
content: Photo would be nice

author: simxdx
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 06, 2019, 02:57:29 am
content: You need hex wrench (1.5mm).没有这个六角扳手，电路板拆不下来。
Hakko FM-203 error code C-E on port D (solved) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: FatMexican
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2024, 11:39:29 pm
content: I am getting an error message of C-E (only on port D )on my FM-203 soldering station. I have tried multiple soldering iron in the station (FM-2023 and FM-2030) and get the same error message. Port S works correctly when I plug in a FM-2027, but the FM-2027 will get the error message C-E when plugged into port D. Any suggestions?Thanks for your helpPedro

author: FatMexican
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2024, 10:28:02 pm
content: It was a user error I was not using both ports, now that I have two soldering irons everything is fine.Pedro
Hakko FR-803B schematic / transformer specs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: eduaqa
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2021, 12:49:57 pm
content: Does anyone have the schematic for Hakko FR-803B? My transformer burned and the original one is to hard to find and too expensive when found.I would like to have a look on the schematic for the voltage on the secondary, I believe a generic transformer will works good and will costs 1/10 of the price of the original one.If someone also have a Hakko FR-803B and can measure the voltage on the secondary and post back I really appreciate.
Hakko FR-810 or FR-810B Repair Manual - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: fabriciofx
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 13, 2022, 01:08:48 am
content: Hi Guys!I'm looking for the Hakko FR-810 or FR-810B repair / service manual. I've seached over all the internet and just found the user manual. Can anyone help me?Best Regards,--fx

author: decoder_82
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2022, 05:00:40 am
content: Indeed not sure if there is a service manual available. Fromhttps://www.hakko.com/english/support/doc/result.php?s_keyword=fr-810&s_la%5B1%5D=1&s_la%5B2%5D=2#resultAncThere is no service manual, only user manual and instructions for replacing the heating element.

author: abdulbadii
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2022, 11:57:18 am
content: simply take a close up shot onto the faulty PCB, upload the image imgur or imgBB then insert hereencouraged to reverse engineer it
HAKKO FR300 220V Motor Specification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Pasan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 21, 2021, 01:47:13 pm
content: Model: HAKKO FR300 220V Motor SpecificationIssue: Magic smoke escaped.I am trying to find a specification for this motor.I also did a bit of reverse engineering for the motor circuit and it's attached below.Hakko has all the replacement parts except the motor

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2021, 10:06:58 pm
content: The bridge rectifier (S1WB) on the endcap PCB would suggest that the motor is actually a DC type.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2021, 01:45:36 am
content: This much is obvious, it's clearly a permanent magnet DC motor. It could potentially be 220V although I suspect it is lower. A lot of hair dryers use a tap in the heating element to power a low voltage motor through a diode, I don't know whether Hakko does the same. Odd that they don't carry a replacement motor.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2021, 02:54:57 am
content: https://hakkousa.com/amfile/file/download/file/2814/product/10270/Motor Output - 14W

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2021, 04:31:49 am
content: Isn't this what you want?https://www.hakko.co.uk/product/699-032678-motor-for-the-fr-300/The picture doesn't look right but it does say it's for illustrative purposes only.

author: Pasan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 22, 2021, 05:31:15 am
content: Yes, it's a DC motor and has its own circuitry apart from the heating element section.I've done a bit of reverse engineering and the schematic is attached.

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2021, 12:58:17 am
content: Have you tried contacting Hakko?I'd open it up, worst case you can probably rewind it.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2021, 01:54:46 am
content: Most of the time when I've had brushed DC motors fail it was the brushes or commutator that burned up but it's certainly worth opening it to look.
Hakko FX-888D 120V connected to 230V - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2015, 06:29:39 pm
content: In case anyone's ever done what the subject line says, was there anything to replace other than the fuse?

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2015, 08:04:10 pm
content: Well, it looks okay with a new fuse. The temperature may be off somewhat, but it's probably unrelated.The original fuse wasNSF FCTfrom Nippon Seisen Cable. It appears to be a medium/semi time-lag, but what I replaced it with is defined "fast".And I don't understand what's so difficult in making a 20x5mm fuse really 20mm...BTW, Hakko's official replacement is theB3722fuse board. It's both expensive and more difficult to replace than just the fuse.

author: ripplingwater75
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 13, 2018, 05:59:12 am
content: hi,Just curious - did you manage to revive the FX888D? Lol, I did the exact same thing! - plugged in FX888D ( the 120V version ) into a 220V supply accidentally. It was unfortunate that the vendor from whom I brought it never highlighted (in bold/red) that it is a 120V version. These days we are so used to 110-230v range that sometimes we totally miss checking and end up with a fried deviceIn any case just wanted to check if your FX888D is "back to normal"? I am awaiting the fuse board because at the moment the resistance across the live/neutral pins is not showing any value - so I guess ( and hoping ) that it just blew out the fuse. Thanks & Cheers - RW

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 07:29:13 pm
content: Yeah, it works. As said in the message previous to yours.I replaced just the fuse, not the board.

author: Tommaso Barina
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 02, 2020, 08:17:34 pm
content: Hi, I did the same mistake. I live in Italy and we have 220V.BTW: what to you use to convert the voltage in order to use your Hakko station in your country?Any suggestion would be appreciated.Best regards.Tommaso

author: builder01
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 08:23:57 pm
content: I just did the same stupid mistake and fortunately found your post.Did you use a 220V to 110V converter to use it?Greetings from the NetherlandsErnesto

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2021, 02:02:04 am
content: Quote from: Tommaso Barina on August 02, 2020, 08:17:34 pmQuote from: builder01 on September 24, 2020, 08:23:57 pmUsing a bulky transformer black box thing, that can both step up and down, similar to this:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-ST300-300-Watt-110-220-Volt-Voltage-Converter-110v-220v-Transformer/112237540685
Hakko FX-888D loose iron cord connection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: TimeBandit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2019, 05:01:57 pm
content: I like my FX-888D a lot. That out of the way, I'm annoyed at how loose the DIN connection for iron to base has become. It's now at the point of intermittently cutting out, causing the temperature to fluctuate dramatically. I've found one fix that involves retrofitting the base and cord with a locking DIN pair.This was done on an 888, not an FX-888D, but at least one commenter said he did on his FX-88D. Anyone else tried this or have any different suggestions or a fix? Also, with the mod in the video, I assume this wouldn't affect the ESD protection, correct?
Hakko FX-888D Transformer Replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Hootis Tigglebits
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2024, 03:38:03 pm
content: Does anyone know where I can find a generic transformer that fits the FX888D Soldering Station? Hakko's part# is: B3738 and it's a 120V primary to 23.2V-24.9V 3.2A secondary.
Hakko FX888D repair? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: YurkshireLad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2023, 11:47:04 pm
content: Due to a stupid accident, the plastic piece that holds the connector in place, broke on my Hakko FX888D. Is there any way to repair it?

author: YurkshireLad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 01:44:49 pm
content: I opened it up last night but I can't see how to fix it. Time to shop for a new one.Sorry it's blurry but you get the idea.

author: YurkshireLad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 05:37:21 pm
content: The outer plastic ring smashed into pieces, so somehow I would need to replace it with another plastic ring. Presumably the DIN connector is glued to it.

author: rcjoy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2023, 06:00:47 am
content: Search for Hakko B3463.

author: YurkshireLad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2023, 12:25:29 pm
content: Quote from: rcjoy on January 12, 2023, 06:00:47 amWill do, thanks!

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 03:39:45 am
content: Could you wedge it in place, with a screw (screwed into the case) pressing against the connector ? I have a Hakko, and lately were I keep it, is probably going to wear out the cords.
Hakko Soldering Station , needs more heat to melt solder  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: einhander
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2023, 06:53:45 pm
content: hi eevblog members , I bought a Hakko Soldering Station around 2016 and it suddenly won't melt solder at 185c. The solder is Kester and has a melting point of 183c.If I ramp up the Hakko to 225c it will melt solder. I bought my Hakko from element14 so no knockoff here.Can I do something to restore it back to full working order myself ? or do I need to buy a replacement Soldering Iron to plug in to the Hakko ?https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/american-hakko-products-inc/FX8801-02/6228837chat soon

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2023, 07:18:00 pm
content: I'm rather surprised at the "suddenly". Trying to melt solder with the tip at 2'C above the stated melting point is pretty much an impossibility. You won't get perfect contact between the tip and the end of the solder and there will be some heat loss through conduction down its length.Normal soldering temperature for 63/37 solder would be around 320'C in order to allow reasonable soldering dwell time and for the flux to do its work.

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2023, 11:00:04 pm
content: You don't calibrate a soldering station with solder melt point, you use a soldering iron thermometer, e.g. Hakko 191 (cheap copies available on eBay). I doubt your iron is suddenly running 40 degrees cold though, likely nothing wrong with it.

author: einhander
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2023, 08:47:01 pm
content: thanks guys for the info and knowledge , it helped a lot in my situation.
Hall Sensor identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: croaker
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2024, 07:03:01 pm
content: Hi,please help me with hall sensor identification.They are components of a 3-phase current sensor, which is used in a VFD.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2024, 07:11:20 am
content: The "3" appears to identify the part -- HG-362A by Asahi Kasei Microdevices.http://www.haierxikj.com/en/UploadFile/Photo/2015-8/2015082417013848657.pdfhttps://www.ebay.com.au/itm/196671515338(image)
Hameg 1004-3 minor problems - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Nikan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2019, 11:04:56 pm
content: Hello Hameg friends,I've got my self a used Hameg 1004-3 a while ago.And I'm starting to to have some trouble with it.First of all the bootlogo/menu is really dark and It semms like there is no way of saving the intensity. This is really strange cause It saves the intensity of channel A/B and the readout automatically but not the intensity of the menu/startup. I have to adjust the intensity everytime I leave the menu and come back.I assume that this is not normal... Does anyone have a clue where this could come from?My other problem is that the cursor is not working anymore and some rotarys are missing steps or go randomly for the other direction.Is there a replacement kit for the switches/rotarys?I appreciate any hint/advice!!!Thanks in advance!!!
Hameg 1004-3 Time/div problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Amine13
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 01, 2022, 07:31:42 pm
content: Hello Friends,First topic !!Well, the time DIV button at the right doesn't behaviour normally, when I turned to rise time div, it doesn't respond, and finishes by goiing to the min value which 50ns then starts to beep, turnin to the opposite direction doesn't affect.Can the knob be faulty? and If yes, is there somwhere to get spare parts for this scope?All the best.

author: cnqhdszq
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2022, 11:50:31 am
content: You may have a try press the "auto" botton.
Hameg 103 oscilloscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: gearheadgeek
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 07:23:32 pm
content: Hello EEVblog Im a long time reader and now a first time poster. I have acquired a Hameg 103 10 mhz scope and I cleaned it up and checking it over and went to calibrate the scope and probe and read the manual after downloaded it and by no means am i pro at this I just like to tinker and I run into a issue I have never seen before the instruction says to set the scope to 5 mv Y-AMPL and the timebase to 0.2 ms and should get about 4cm taken on the screen thats right but my traces are fat and when i press on the case they become normal. Im gong to try to include a video if i can. some help in the right direction would be most helpfulhttps://youtu.be/ZTfveKgK22wI put a link to youtube I dont know if i can do this so please forgive in advance

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 07:54:59 pm
content: I can't view the video, it says it's private.If pressing on the case causes the trace to change then it sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere, I can't really tell you more without knowing more details.

author: gearheadgeek
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 08:23:37 pm
content: Hello james try it again I think i change my youtube correctly that was the very first video i uploaded i unchecked all the settings i think

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 10:50:23 pm
content: Looks like a weak contact somewhere on the focus adjustment.Study schematic to get some idea of what components are involved, remove cover then try to figure-out which of those components get mechanical stress once you push down.Also try prodding around with a dry chopstick.Beware high voltage.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 11:16:18 pm
content: I strongly suspect you've got a cracked solder joint in there and pressing on the case is flexing the PCB. You're gonna have to open it up and see what you can find.
hameg 1503-7 security key - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rezapourkia
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 09, 2024, 10:38:09 am
content: HiI want to callibrate this oscop but when i want to factory reset oscop want "Press SeCURITY KEY!"what i must do?the main problem is i cant trim the Y axis by potentiometer.Thanks

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2024, 02:09:33 pm
content: Hi!. . .It might be an internally fitted press–button on the microprocessor PCB that opens an additional Service Menu – you might find this oscilloscope does not use preset potentiometer adjustments, being software calibrated with the adjustments stored in EEPROM or non–volatile memory!Chris Williams

author: Hamelec
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2024, 08:53:54 am
content: you should correct the title to HAMEG type 1507-3, maybe then anybody can help you
Hameg 1507-3 No Trace [SOLVED] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: peplegal
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 26, 2021, 10:23:27 pm
content: Just got this one.All initial check seems OK...but at the end, no analog trace is shown, only Digital info...and some dots at the middle.Any help would be very appreciated.Thanks.-----------------------------------Sorry guys...No problem with the Scope. I found out I have to keep a button pressed for a while in order to "unfreeze" the screen.
Hameg 1508 scope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: atum
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 25, 2021, 08:29:15 am
content: Dear all,I have an issue on the digital board of my hameg HM1508.There are some glitchs on the displayed signal.I founded that a memory was faultly (one address bit was in short circuit)I replaced the memory, it is better but there are still glitched.I'm looking for schematics. I have read this post before creating the current one.=>https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/hameg-hm1008-helpmanual/msg894507/#msg894507It seems that it is quite impossible to get shematics. Does anybody success to get it since 2016 ?Does anybody experienced issue on digial board (signal is perfect in analog mode) ?I can post picture of faultly displayed sinal if some is interested to help me.best regardsatum

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2021, 02:42:55 pm
content: Tryhttp://www.ko4bb.com/getsimple/index.php?id=manualsavailable here somewhere with others (i just had not time to search.. now)This one contains some stuff..pretty sure there are others repos here.Paul

author: atum
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 02, 2021, 10:03:41 am
content: Thank's for your response.I have explored the link you gave me, i was not able to found anything regarding the hameg 1508.Maybe i am not looking correctly.atum.

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2021, 10:33:56 am
content: https://www.opweb.de/english/company/Hameg/HM1508-2fast searched ... check version If service available..and contact HAMEG if necessaryPaul

author: feritosmanoglu@gmail.com
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 10, 2021, 07:38:40 pm
content: Hello,I have similar problem. Contacted Rohde Schwarz, they said that must contact SKY Messtechnik which are in charge for HAMEG etc. Finalu succeed to get service manul for HAMEG HM-1508-2. Unfortunately no circuit diagrams. Asked SKY Messtechnik but they refused to provide and offered to repair instead. Anyway, if you need the Service Manual, please send a PM

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2021, 06:46:23 am
content: feritosmanoglu:You may want to consider changing that user name to something less spam-attracting?It would be great if you could upload the manual somewhere for availability, maybe to KO4BB...The problem in OP sounds like bad power, replacing RAM improves the situation without completely solving the problem.I'd start by checking +5V to the PCB then in more detail the +5V at the hottest/fastest components. (Starting with ADC)I doubt they'll be much follow-up on the OP though....

author: feritosmanoglu@gmail.com
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 08, 2022, 02:58:50 pm
content: Hi all,The English service manual of HM1508 is uploaded to KO4BB. As I said in my previous post, without schematics. Hope help someone.
Hameg 203-5 issue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Qa3qa3qa3
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 30, 2023, 10:34:37 am
content: Hi,I bought a Hameg 203-5 scope, which had flickering traces whenever the controls are manipulated, it looked like it needed some cleaning so i went ahead and disassembled the unit, gave it a good clean and all worked fine.The issue is, when i was putting it back together, i couldnt remember which of the TO220 packages devices was screwed down to the chassis without insulation, one of them is the TIP47 npn transistor in the regulation circuit for the 170v rail, i ended up guessing it, i screwed the TIP47 down to the chassis with no insulation shorting its collector to GND, when i powered up the unit it only showed three dots in the center of the CRT, i started measuring the PS voltages, the 170 and 140v rails were showing 25v and 23v respectively, i think i have damaged something in the circuit.I tried troubleshooting the regulator circuit replacing the TL431 and the BF423 with no success. I still didnt replace the TIP47 yet though.I decided to inject a 170v from an external source and see what effect it has on the unit, when i did the traces showed up and everything was normal but i noticed a resistor (R707 circled in red) was heating up in an adjacent circuit.My question is if anyone has run into a similar issue how did u manage to fix it.And basically where should i start.Thanks

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2023, 10:50:52 am
content: Your post is a copy and paste of your earlier one athttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hameg-203-5/msg4840091/#msg4840091Duplicates are NOT allowed here.

author: gnif
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 30, 2023, 10:55:46 am
content: Correct, thread locked. Please don't spam topics looking for a faster response, people will pretty quickly ignore you if they notice that.
Hameg 203-7 fuse holder? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Cykar
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2019, 03:37:59 pm
content: Forgive me if this is not quite the right section to post in - not sure where else to put it.I've been looking at an oscilloscope to buy on ebay, an old cro, Hameg 203-7. It is really cheap, and I'm not afraid to take a gamble on it not working - as the post states.But when you look at the few pictures that accompany it, it is clear that the fuse holder is missing - which might well be why it doesn't work! (i know it could be something completely different too)I've looked everywhere for a new one, have emailed rohde&schwarz, twice, with no success. I just can't find anything anywhere.Anyone got any suggestions how I might make something myself to use? The fuseholder I think must shield the fuse on 3/4 of the sides because it also acts as the supply voltage selector. Must also be the same as many other fuse holders on old Hameg oscilloscopes.Or does anyone know of somewhere else I can try and find one of these without going to the expense of buying a whole other (broken) unit, just for a little piece of plastic?Thanks

author: CJay
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2019, 03:44:16 pm
content: Why?Just wire it for 230V operation and use a standard fuse holder if it's not an off the shelf part

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2019, 06:05:27 pm
content: Looking at the sold prices, I'd probably hold out for one that works for a fiver more myself and save yourself the hassle.

author: Cykar
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2019, 06:08:27 pm
content: thanks for your answers guys.

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2019, 09:09:44 pm
content: If it is item 223535337110 I would pass for the simple reason that the seller advertises repairs. If the seller gave up on it that tells us something. Probably not worth repairing.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2019, 09:55:50 pm
content: Well spotted. Totally agree. Offer seller £20. Worth that for parts if you find another one.