Removing glue residue from ammo tape components - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Back2Volts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 05, 2016, 08:58:10 pm
content: What is the best way to remove the whitish glue residue from the leads of components that come in paper ammo tapes? The resistors and diodes are a nuisance, but the electrolytic are really bad. I have been using a paper towel with alcohol. Is there a better way other than cutting the leads shorter?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 05, 2016, 08:59:59 pm
content: Do you need to remove it ? the component leads are usually so long that you won't need that part of the lead.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 05, 2016, 09:02:50 pm
content: Quote from: Back2Volts on November 05, 2016, 08:58:10 pmNo, cutting the leads is how it is intended to be used by design. In automated environment, this packaging is made for, exactly this is done.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2016, 09:05:37 pm
content: If you are assembling the components into a circuit board you would usually snip them off next to the paper tape and then form the leads for insertion into the board.If you want really long leads for breadboarding then wiping them clean with an alcohol soaked wipe is the best way.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 05, 2016, 09:10:34 pm
content: Soldering will just burn it off. If you want to use the lead in a breadboard then maybe wipe with alcohol.

author: Quarlo Klobrigney
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 01:23:55 am
content: I use lacquer thinner... but wear gloves for a prolonged cleaning session though.Save a kidney or a liver, wear protection and use plenty of fresh air.What I used to do without gloves,I don't take that risk any more.

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 07:09:00 am
content: My vote:Quote from: wilfred on November 05, 2016, 11:21:43 pm

author: setq
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 10:33:36 am
content: I always keep them on the roll, then cut the leads short, then use them.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 10:49:12 am
content: Unfortunately most bandoleer taped components have shorter leads than they used to and cutting off the contaminated portion reduces their utility for breadboarding.Wet the residue with IPA, and a couple of seconds later it simply wipes off. IPA is a lot less hazardous than most other common solvents and doesn't leave an oily residue that could transfer to the breadboard contacts and trap dust.

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 11:51:50 am
content: FWIW, eucalyptus oil can be applied to paper products (to remove old price stickers, for example) and once it evaporates, there is NO trace of any stain whatsoever.I've done this hundreds of times on expensive booklets ($10 for an 8 page one) and there has been no damage from staining. The only time I have any hassles is if the booklet is printed with an ink that the eucalyptus softens - a rub will smear the ink. A very special technique is necessary for these ones - but you won't have any hassles like that with component leads.

author: JacquesBBB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 02:36:27 pm
content: I use kitchen Stainless steel scrubber like this one. Its very efficient and also desoxidise the leads.I use it always for old components.I use it also ( ver gently) for my soldering iron.https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-84-Stainless-Scrubber-1-75-Ounce/dp/B00978XHR4/ref=pd_lpo_60_tr_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2VJTGF1XW3FBSQXNHZJR

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 07:05:52 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on November 06, 2016, 10:49:12 amAny evidence for this claim? The local mom-and-pop electronics shop has tons of NOS (actually, tons of it I would call "new ancient stock"), and the bandoliers are the same width as on modern components -- which makes total sense given that the entire reason for bandoliers is for automated insertion, so it'd have to be fairly standardized.Or am I misunderstanding -- are you referring to components made before bandoliering even began? (Which would place it at what, pre-1960 or something?)

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 08:55:08 pm
content: I remember getting resistors with full length leads back in the mid '80s and I'm fairly sure they were bandoliered NOS back then (probably from the '70s). Its a *LONG* time back though and I may be mis-remembering things. I agree the overall width wont have changed since bandoliering became common, but the race to the bottom + high copper prices makes it competitive for 'off-brand' component manufacturers to set the lead fead and cutting machine 1 or 2mm shorter if they can get away with it.

author: KMoffett
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2016, 06:30:39 pm
content: I use naptha (Coleman camp stove fuel, white gas, lighter fluid). It works great and is safe even on most plastics.Ken