hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Hakko 951 from the US with step down transformer: any issues? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ironcurtain
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 09:31:12 am
content: I'm stateside for a short while and I have a chance to grab a Hakko 951 kit with quite a few extras for 300 USD. The unit alone retails for 235 USD the cheapest. It's 280 EUR in Europe, and I wrote a thread not long ago where I asked about Ersa and JBC... they are at least 209 EUR (the Nano) and the JBC models are all around 340 and higher.So I'm thinking of grabbing a 951 and then a step down converter that I could use for other 110V equipment. Anyone know of any real, proven issues with such a setup? Does the difference in AC frequency cause any definitive issues, thermal and otherwise?

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 01:56:23 pm
content: Firstly the Pace ADS200 (starting to sound like a broken record here) is going to be selling in Europe soon for approx 225 euro (a little more if you want a setback stand), this is a 120W station. You might be in for some buyers remorse if you decide too early.If the Hakko FX-951 transformer is rated for both 50/60Hz no problem. If the transformer is only rated for 60Hz then a "rough rule of thumb" is that it will perform like the transformer is 20% underrated, so run hotter and reach saturation earlier.This is not so much an issue if the transformer was overrated to begin with or had headroom, but it's something to consider if you are running the device at it's maximum rating. Seeing the below picture posted by GreyWoolfe it only states 60Hz 120V operation.The other factor is the difference in frequency and how it affects operation. As far as I'm aware the carts are the same in both geographies they just have a different series number and a few different tips. The irons are different and that appears to be cosmetic (one has an LED).Another "rough rule of thumb" is you will need to have a stepdown of at least 2 to 3 times the rating of the device you are running. Refer to the stepdown transformers website/manual for more info on the load.Make sure if you are buying a genuine FX-951 as there are plenty of fakes out there now.

author: simone.pignatti
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2018, 07:00:08 pm
content: Quote from: ironcurtain on April 17, 2018, 09:31:12 amI think we can help you without letting you buy a unit from US and make modification.If you like send me a PMThanks.
Knife soldering tip howtos and tutorials - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: szotsaki
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 12, 2018, 06:57:52 pm
content: Hi all,I've searched a lot how to properly, "professionally", use my knife shaped tip. Unfortunately, besidesHakko's excellent short tutorials, I haven't find anything useful on e.g. YouTube.I though about likeJohn Gammell'sshort videos under which he answers questions and the bystanders get some additional clues how to use their tip (like how much heat is recommended).Do you know written or spoken collections where these clues are collected? Or can you share some tips?I use my knife tip to solder PTH, stripboards, and SMD, so pretty much the whole scale.

author: hrbngr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2018, 05:08:07 pm
content: szotsaki,were you ever able to find any videos for how to use the Knife tip properly? I'm about to buy a Hakko 951 and was considering a knife tip, but not sure how that might be helpful.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 02:56:37 pm
content: Quote from: hrbngr on April 16, 2018, 05:08:07 pmPros and cons of the knife tip.Good at loading solderGood for drag solderingCan be used to remove solder bridgesCan do some precision workGood thermal massWorks well in straight lines with PCB spaceThe tip is pointy but it's not so useful for poking holesUsing the very tip to solder through hole is not the bestCan be used for tinning wireCan be used to desolder and wipe padsCan be used to remove some surface mount components from the PCBBetter than most at soldering heatsinks but not as good as a high mass chisel.So it's not really the best tip in all situations but more a good all round tip. A specific sized chisel for through hole, a pointy one for very fine work, a purpose specific drag soldering tip etc, will all do their job better.If you are only ever going to buy one tip perhaps. I'm still really fond of the chisel at least for 90% of soldering individual pads.
Keyboard key reassignment - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2018, 02:11:27 pm
content: I purchased one of these:https://www.ebay.com/itm/FANTECH-FTK-801-USB-Numeric-Keypad-with-23-Keys-4-Office-Hotkeys-for-PC-Laptop-/282152972047I was intending to reassign two of the upper keys to: G and SPACE.I tried using "KeyTweak" to do this. Looks like Win7 intervenes somehow, I can reassign any of the other keys but not the Windows specific buttons (that I don't want or need). Looks like KeyTweak over-writes something in the Windows registry and I guess MS does allow this for other keys but not windows specific keys.Does anyone know of a work around or have a link to a dirt cheap numeric keypad with generic or re-programmable extra buttons?
Shure PGA48 Handling noise  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheOCDengineer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2018, 01:03:37 am
content: Hi EveryoneA couple of months ago i bought a Shure PGA48 for on the road voice over work. The quality of the voice sounds good but i have a problem with handling noise. If you are holding the microphone in your hand not moving it will pick up pops from moving. Right now it is going through an XLR to Quarter inch and then to an 1/8 inch to fit into my sony pocket recorder (I checked and the recorder that i am using supports dynamic based microphones). Here is the amazon listing for ithttps://www.amazon.com/Shure-PGA48-XLR-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B00TTQM93C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523235353&sr=8-2&keywords=shure%2Bpga48&th=1The XLR connection is a little wiggly so I am wondering if I get a new cable if it would remove this problem. Keep in mind i am using the cable that came with the microphone.Thanks
Cleaning pin / drill Hakko FR-300 alternatives? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: guy232
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2018, 03:30:07 pm
content: I have purchased a used fr-300 that did not include cleaning pin/drill for the tip. I have been given the chance to test it and see if it functions well due to the seller not being sure of it's condition. Is my only viable option to order these tools and wait for them to arrive?At first glance my uneducated guess is that the cleaning tools appear to be a specific diameter pin/drill that may be able to be sourced at a hardware store. Am i incorrect about this? Haven't been able to find any info via searching the forums or google.Thanks for your time!

author: Fludo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2018, 10:47:08 am
content: The nozzles come in sizes like 0.8mm, 1mm, 1.3mm, etc. I use them for the FM2024.Digikey sells Hakko wire cleanershttps://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/B1087/1691-1029-ND/6228785If you got to home depot or a hardware store they sell acetylene torch nozzle cleaners which might work for the fr-300. They look like the ones in the link below.https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-22034-Standard-Cleaner/dp/B005TGLDVU/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1523443578&sr=1-3&keywords=nozzle+cleaner

author: DimitriP
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2018, 10:58:24 am
content: ...and lets not forget using a guitar string ...the music store is closer than next day shipping

author: CustomEngineerer
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2018, 04:07:19 am
content: The pins and drill bits are nothing special. Any similar sized pokers will work. The drill bits aren't needed as much, they are just for when the crap builds up in the nozzle to heavy for the pins to be able to easily get out, though with enough work the pins will still be able to get the crap out. So the drill bits aren't absolutely necessary. Its up to you if you want to order the official ones or not. I did because I wasn't sure when I first got my FR-300, but since I've been using other similar sized drill bits for the few occasions I've needed them.I have 3 of the original pins, 0.8mm, 1.0mm and 1.6mm. They measure 0.72mm, 0.91mm and 1.40mm respectively. Though absolute size isn't really that important, as long as the pin is slightly narrower than the nozzle you want to clean with it, thats all that really matters.For the original drill bits, I had gotten the 1.0mm and 1.6mm bits. They measure 1.0mm and 1.5mm respectively. For replacements I've been using a 0.95mm and 1.45mm drill bits that I had laying around (not sure what the label on them is, probably supposed to be 1.0 and 1.5, but not readable) with no issues. Again, as long as they fit through the hole, they should work fine and aren't really worth worrying about.
Korad KA3005D (new version of KA3005P??) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kb0nly
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2015, 06:49:14 am
content: Anyone have one of the D models yet? Looking for a review on them. I know from watching Dave's followup videos that they fixed the problems with the P model, but now they are selling a D model that looks and functions, or at least appears to, the same as the P model..The only difference from the outside is its called the KA3005D Digital Power Supply, instead of KA3005P Programmable Power Supply. But i have yet to find any nitty gritty on the guts in these yet.

author: kb0nly
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2015, 07:34:14 am
content: Ok i sent another email to suppliers i checked with on this...I guess its really not a "newer" version as some sellers on Amazon and eBay are implying... Its actually just a version of the 3005P that doesn't include the USB/Serial interface...Why oh why can't these sellers just state that instead of hyping it to be a "new" model??Ughhh...

author: macinblack
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 08:02:03 pm
content: Hey, the 3005P model works fine? Worth 99€?https://www.welectron.com/Korad-KA3005P-Programmable-Benchtop-Power-Supply

author: chickenHeadKnob
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 09:56:16 pm
content: As far as I can remember the P and D models came out at the same time and as you found only differ in the USB interface. More important is that Korad made design changes and bug fixes without changing the model number over the years they have been sold.

author: Gregg
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 10:50:45 pm
content: I have one of the D models that I bought for around $90 US on sale about three years ago. I haven't looked at the output ripple, but it hasn't failed and was definitely worth what I paid. I bought it shortly after Korad announced one of their updates and made sure mine was made after the update.
Zeny 853D Rework Station ( Heat, Solder, Power ) handles question - w/ mods! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Acecool
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2018, 02:26:27 pm
content: I have a Zeny 853D Rework Station which has wands for Heat and soldering, plus it has a power generator for 0 to 15V up to 1 AMP if I recall correctly...I am retrying this thread so I'm keeping it shorter due to the post disappearing...I am wanting to try different wands / handles with this unit - has anyone tried this? The reason I want to do this is to make use of other tips - right now I'm using 900M style tips and they're a pain to change when the unit is hot - so I'm thinking of getting a few more wands so I can have them set up with common tips I use....My brother is building a boat, and he's going to start on electrical soon - I am also looking into portable units such as a Weller and Hakko FX-901 which uses different tips... I want to be able to use the tips, in case he goes a different route, with my machine without needing the portable unit....I know I'll need to, at the very least, create a jumper so coming from the Zeny 853D a wire to the mate of the new wand and likely repin...Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this unit? That'd be really helpful..I already did one mod on the unit - I was so annoying that the heat-gun was permanently attached that I bought the same type of connector used for the soldering iron handle and added the option to the unit which is REALLY helpful - especially because the default holster for it is terrible and it kept getting in the way, falling, etc...So - in short - I'm looking for a wiring diagram for the Zeny 853D... a list of any compatible handles which are plug and play which use different types of tips than the 900M series, recommendations for common tips or good tips which doesn't have issues heating as the 900M does when the tolerance is off, and opinions on the Hakko FX-901 or other portable units...Cheers.Oh, photo of the mod ( I'll see about getting an internal shot later ):or linkhttps://www.dropbox.com/s/fmev1169cvh2m4a/20180507_100249.jpg?dl=0
Convert a Canon Camcorder: Legria (PAL model) <-> Vixia (NTSC model) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ElektronikLabor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2018, 07:19:00 am
content: Hello,I purchased an used Canon Legria HF G40 camcorder. It's a PAL model, which main difference is the reduced frame rate of 25p/50p instead of the 30p/60p of the NTSC model (Vixia HF G40).I always filmed in 30p (29.970 fps) and I would like to stick with it. 50p is to much for me because of the increased storage space and the longer encoding time.Light flicker (mains frequency = 50Hz) is not a problem, because all lights I use are flicker free.You can't select 30p/60p mode, when you have an European camcorder! And that is so for most camcorders on the market.And no, you can't just install an US firmware; the firmware is always the same.I'm very confident, that the hardware is identical on both cams (Legria & Vixia). However I presume that the configuration of model ID is made in hardware; e.g.:a resistor divider that is connected to an ADCa bunch of pull-up or pull-down resistors connected to input pins of a µC (some of them not populated)etc.I also think that the configuration of most Legria/Vixia models is done in the same manner; so when you figure out how to hack one model, maybe you can also hack all the others too.Does anyone know more about it?
Automatic wire strippers Klein, Ideal strip master - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2018, 03:50:57 pm
content: Does anyone know if the cutting blades can be swapped between these two brands. Both of these look to be the same from pictures:This type: klein automatic wire strippershttps://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Katapult-Wire-Stripper-Cutter-for-8-24-AWG-Solid-and-10-22-AWG-Stranded-Wire-11063W/204660476vs.automatic wire strippers ideal stripmaster:https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-Industries-Stripmaster-Wire-Stripper/dp/B000RFSWF8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522683866&sr=1-1&keywords=automatic+wire+strippers+ideal+stripmaster

author: Neomys Sapiens
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2018, 01:37:23 am
content: Yes, the german Belzer-Made ones fit them too. They are under Mil standardisation.But that might only apply for one subtype of the manufacturers!So, maybe.
[DIY] TS100 + T12 OLED Dual/Quad Soldering Station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2018, 12:33:30 am
content: If you are like me that like multiple tools to work or try, nothing better than save space, organize and keep things easy and lightweight.Features:Dual output (TS100 + T12 STM32 2.1S OLED)Quad output (4xTS100)Seven output (7xTS100)Seven output, cut as you go (NxTS100)Support two power supply models (6A or 9A)Independent Switchs for every output including mainsVoltage and current metter for a pleasant view and LiPo voltage controlDC jack for external power supply, eg: LiPoBottom vent holes + rubber pad slotCan change front and back plates easy to convert into other station without reprint main bodyStackable!BOM:1 x AC/DC 24V power supplyhttps://www.banggood.com/4A-To-6A-24V-Switching-Power-Supply-Board-AC-DC-Power-Module-p-969204.htmlhttps://www.banggood.com/AC-DC-Switching-Power-Supply-Module-AC-100-240V-to-DC-24V-9A-Power-Supply-Board-p-1086527.html1 x round switch for mains2 x mini rectangular switch1 x digital ammeter1 x GX12 RS765 aviation plug with 2 or 3 pins for TS1001 x T12 STM32 2.1S OLED1 x TS1001 x 2 core silicone cable and DC jack for TS100 DYI cableCable for wiring4 x M3 8mm Self trap screws for psu4 x M3 galvanic square nut4 x M3 machined screwSoon i will be able to sell the the whole system, if anyone interested and too lazy to DYII will also publish 1 output TS100 and 2 output TS100 versions / plates, but there are space for 7 x TS100 outputsMore info here:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2847365And photo album here:https://www.facebook.com/pg/PTRTECH/photos/?tab=album&album_id=362067290944117

author: Bratster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2018, 01:11:17 am
content: That's pretty cool, good job!

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2018, 04:24:33 am
content: Quote from: Bratster on April 02, 2018, 01:11:17 amThank you! This project also aim teams who need more irons and less confusion and mess.Up to 7 TS100! Overkill but i have space
Ublox Neo M8T unstable frequency output - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2018, 02:44:00 am
content: I wanted for quite awhile to make a 10MHz GPSDO for calibrating my frequency counter and spectrum analyzer. Today I started playing with a Ublox Neo M8T that I recovered from a board. This module has two configurable timepulse outputs from 1Hz to 10MHz. So trying to decide if I go with a 10KHz - 1MHz PLL or a 1PPS FLL, I set a 1MHz pulse on Timepulse 1 (pin 3) and I connect the scope and to my surprise the pulse is very unstable. Timepulse2 seems to be very stable. Any idea why?

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2018, 07:09:12 am
content: Hi, the Ublox range is based on an Arm core, I think it is an STM32 of some kind, they are clocked by a XO (hopefully a TCXO for a M8T device).The Freq outputs that you get are based on the timer/counters in the STM32. The Ublox will syncronise the counter with both the TCXO and the GPS signal, this means that the counter will be reset when the STM32 detects the GPS clock is out of sync with the TCXO. This causes the jitter that you see.Many people report that the Freq out from GPS devices have this jitter.Most GPS devices now no longer output the clocking freq from the GPS signal.Most poeple now use the 1pps to gate a count of your local OX and average over long time periods.By FLL do you mean 'Freq Lock Loop' ?

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2018, 11:58:41 am
content: This is embarrassing, I did not remove the module from the circuit and the timepulse output goes to a PIC input. I powered only the GPS module but I guess the PIC was trying to run from the PPS signal through the clamp diode and was loading the PPS output. Once I cut the trace to the PIC, the output is clean.Ublox specifies the PPS accuracy to 500ns indoor and 20ns clear sky. That correspond to 500ppb indoor and 80ppb clear sky by my calculations. That is not bad at all, it beats most free running oven oscillators and definitely enough to verify almost any instrument.Yes, FLL is frequency lock loop and is exactly what you describe, for example accumulating the counts over 16 seconds and correcting the oscillator to get an expected number.
Metcal BGA-1 3101 / 3500 series - Help with SW - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Perverza
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 01, 2018, 08:07:44 am
content: Hi,i looking software for Metcal BGA-1 3101 / 3500 series station. I cannot find software and support for this station because is out of date. Do have someone software for this station?It's an old SW since 2000. Name of software is "Windows BGA program".Thanks.
Thinking about a Hakko FX-951 and FM-2032 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 06:10:19 pm
content: I've been using a weller WES51 and can do down to 0.8 mm pins with it without too much trouble. Sometimes though I need to work with 0.66/0.6/0.5mm pitch as well. Would a FX-951/FM-2032 be a good combination for this? Also, some of the tips for the standard iron that comes with the FX-951 look pretty sharp/small, would they do almost as well as the FM-2032? Is there something else that I should consider/think about?

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 03:42:32 pm
content: Nobody wants to talk about soldering irons?!?!?!?!?!?

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 04:59:11 pm
content: You can try smaller tips for your station, eg:https://www.tequipment.net/WellerETU.html(0.38mm chissel),https://www.tequipment.net/WellerETV.html(0.61mm chissel)If you want to go Hakko they have tiny tips that work good, they down to 0.15mmalso you have ERSA option down to 0.3mm tip

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 09:48:34 pm
content: If this is their only selection it seems quite limited:https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_t30_standard_large.htmlYou'd be fine with normal T12 tips.The advantage of the fm2032 to me would be the much nicer looking handle/ergonomics.
Hakko FX888D starting sparking - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EsEsEl_Please
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 12:26:39 am
content: Back in November 2017 I purchased a Hakko FX888D direct from Amazon and have been happily soldering (on occasion) ever since.I was soldering a circuit this evening at 280C, and all was going well, when suddenly the soldering iron started making a noise like a moth had crawled inside.I immediately turned off the power and waited for it to cool down.Then I opened it up to reveal that something went badly wrong. Notice the fuse is still intact.The transformer was still hot after opening and took a good amount of time to cool down.This is the 120V version. I am using a step down transformer as residential AC is 230V/50 Hz over here in Israel.Anyone with an idea as to what happened here? Is this a manufacturing defect or something else? Has the Hakko kicked the bucket?I can distmantle it further if that'll be useful for a diagnosis.I'll power it on at some point during the day, and somewhere where the magic smoke can escape safely if it must.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 12:30:51 am
content: That is a fake Hakko. I'm pretty sure genuine Hakko will not have fuse crudely soldered to the board.There is a thread here that shows differences between genuine and fakes.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 12:41:46 am
content: Yes, indeed. I disassembled mine and it does have fuse soldered on the board. I had much better opinion on Hakko.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 02:18:55 am
content: Yes, that's a genuine one with the obscure Renesas microcontroller.I don't see anything obviously wrong(?) but the connections to the transformer look cold. You could try resoldering them....do not use the soldering iron on itself, obviously.I suspect the transformer could be overheating because it was designed for 60Hz but your mains is only 50Hz.

author: EsEsEl_Please
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 01:13:28 pm
content: Yes, this is indeed a genuine Hakko. I actually made sure of that before posting. The fakes are different in many ways, but definitely hard to tell them apart until you open it all up.@amyk - Thanks for the info. Yeah, I went and read about the 50Hz frequency being a problem - I just did not expect it to be so serious. A proper frequency converter is not cheap (e.ghttp://www.gohz.com/500va-frequency-converter), even if it might be fun to add more blinking lights lol.Most likely I'll have to replace this one with another model.It is possible to mod this thing by replacing the transformer (), but I don't think its an entirely safe route, especially for someone who prefers low-voltage DC like myself :^)

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2018, 10:24:39 am
content: you could find out the price of a replacement 230v transformer from Hakko,if you do, remember to replace the fuse and MOV - specially the MOV because the original one will probably explode with 240v going into it!
Fine mist spray bottles in electronics? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kalel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2018, 12:05:38 pm
content: Do you use any fine mist spray bottles for applying cleaning or other solutions? If so, what type do you use and how much did it cost?

author: DTJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2018, 01:38:21 pm
content: Like these?https://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/252300769937-0-1/s-l1000.jpgI get them for about $2 from Ikea. One for IPA, one for denatured alcohol and a third with distilled water.I do have a nice very small aluminium one that originally contained lens cleaner with IPA in it.

author: kalel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2018, 01:46:31 pm
content: Quote from: DTJ on January 23, 2018, 01:38:21 pmYup, those or similar ones. Some are smaller, some larger and they come in various sizes/shapes. I guess they also produce different mist, but that's pretty hard to tell from an image. It's also questionable how fine the mist needs to be exactly.

author: mixiom
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2018, 02:23:45 pm
content: I am re-using my deodorant spray bottles for IPA and water.https://www.pinkmelon.de/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/freshzerst%C3%A4uberloebl_art.jpg

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2018, 02:00:24 am
content: If best IPA will be used (99.99%) it will evaporate overtime quickly, if you are looking for spray bottles for that IPA grade make sure they have a good seal and not weak.Bottle in all black will benefit that. Don't go transparent for IPAAbout fine mist, almost every spray bottle you can adjust the spray holeI use this:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Fashion-300ml-Hairdressing-Water-Spray-Bottle-High-Quality-Sprayer-Bottle-for-Salon-Home-or-Flower/32707818997.htmlHave two for long and they not break, they are strong.I owned others that are crap and break easy (Cheap...)

author: FrankE
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 03:34:48 am
content: Got some travel atomisers from Superdrug. An IPA for electronics, one for pruning shears and one with surgical spirit for the first aid kit. That's a year and seals are still good.I got a fancy lab bottle, printed, with a stem one cal pull up from a lab supplier It's awful - it dribbles after use unlike the cheapos I got from ebay/amazon China.I was looking online yesterday for a good press own dispenser, one with a lid that prevents evaporation and spills.
Weller WHS 40 (analog model) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: smile
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2018, 09:56:45 am
content: Well I was able to dissemble the Weller WHS 40 soldering station iron to change the cheap insulation wire to silicone insulation. To dissemble the WH40 iron you have to use small flat screwdriver and brake 4 red tabs you can see inside on the front of the handle.The wire can be changed and everything be put together, you can leave few centimeters of old wire to solder to, because there are nice crimped connections you do not want to remove.Other then that you put everything together and use hi temp furnace glue Stovex to hold it in placehttps://images.clasohlson.com/medias/sys_master/8871330119710.jpgThe glue gets rock solid, adheres to plastic and metal. So no problems either.My question is about the fact that this soldering iron has 2 core wire, so how does it control the temperature?The The heating element has 3.8ohm value and AFAIK polarity does not matter.P.S. anyone has schematic?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2018, 10:41:26 am
content: For two wires, the sensor is in series with the heating element. Since resistance changes with heat, you can measure the voltage change for the feedback loop.
JBC NP105-A NANO Tweezer AC or DC ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: hexpope
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2018, 11:31:35 pm
content: Hi all,I am in the middle of designing schematics for a soldering station project. While I have a unit I built that takes the Weller Micro Tweezers and the 12V RT tips. I am hoping to move to JBC tools.Does anyone know what voltage the Nano tweezers operates at? I can't seem to find any data if it's AC or DCThese are the set that I would be looking to get working.http://www.jbctools.com/np115-b-steady-nano-tweezers-product-1350-category-5-menu-1.htmlThanks in advance.RegardsAH Murphy got me today......... I decided to look again and now I found the answer on TME.euIt's 24VAC
SD card extension FFC cables. Anyone tried them? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2018, 04:26:57 am
content: /.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2018, 11:39:20 pm
content: I'm sure that ebay listing is for the correct item, you can find some more photos on aliex with the same sort of build:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2017-New-TF-Micro-SD-TO-SD-Card-Extension-Cable-Adapter-Flexible-Extender-MicroSD-To-SD/32819991189.html

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2018, 12:15:01 am
content: reliability would depend on how fast the host wanted to access the card - higher clock rates would have trouble with that length of cable.

author: cstratton
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2018, 04:34:58 am
content: I used one... in a tablet with a Rockchip SoC that multiplexed the console UART on the SD slot. Don't think I ever tried it with a card though.Still ended up having to buy a second variety as the cable on the first one wouldn't fit.
Replacing T962 reflow oven with IMDES Vapor phase? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Mile
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 19, 2018, 10:54:12 am
content: Hi guys,I work for a small electronics development company and we are considering upgrading our T962 reflow oven. T962 is doing really good job, but some times components don't reflow correctly and need manual rework. We do a lot of prototype production and few runs of maybe dozen pieces.Colleague suggested we get IMDES Vapour phase but after reading about it in "Mini Blog: IMDES Vapour Phase Purchase - Jumbo." thread it seams to me like its not worth 2k EUR.So my questions are:Is IMDES only option for vapour phase around 2k EUR?Are we just better of upgrading our reflow oven to better model?

author: Reckless
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2018, 06:39:25 am
content: Quote from: blueskull on January 21, 2018, 03:50:08 amDo you feel that way about T962C? T200N is $2,000+700 in shipping for me. T962C runs $400 but I am looking for a production grade machine.

author: Reckless
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2018, 08:16:07 am
content: Thats what I was thinking until I came across this post on github:https://github.com/UnifiedEngineering/T-962-improvements/issues/106I just bought one of these for $275 off ebay and debating whether its worth sending back or not. I can't believe it doesn't hit high enough temperatures.
AmScope Microscope Software Lags When Not Connected to Internet? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Technobabble_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2018, 06:12:51 pm
content: Microscope In Question: ZM-4TNW3-80AM-9MOur lab purchased a soldering trinocular microscope, which included a MU900 digital camera for recording. When we first connected to our pc, the camera recording lagged so much it was unusable. Changing settings for framerate, display resolution, and hardware acceleration did not solve the problem. When we hooked up the computer to the internet, however, the microscope camera functioned without lag. A few seconds after we turn off the wifi connection the lag comes back.Has anybody had this issue? Our PC cannot always be connected to the internet for experiments. Why does a microsocpe program need a constant internet connection anyways?Additionally, trying to record AVI videos results in file corruption (see attached image).(I've also contacted AmScope, and am waiting on a response).PC specs:Intel core i3, seventh gen.4 GB ramWindows 10 Pro, 64 bit, build 1709.Software: Amscope v3.7.10246Thanks.
Teardown: $15 120V battery pack - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2018, 07:16:38 am
content: I got two of those $15 120V battery packs after finding this post on Hackaday:https://hackaday.com/2018/03/07/desperately-trying-to-find-a-use-for-the-chugplug/The unit I got is obviously a newer, "cost reduced" version than the one in the video. (Mine has no vents and the power button is in a different position.)Summary of teardown:* The case, as expected, is very difficult to open and even more difficult to do so in a manner that allows it to be reassembled.* The output DC/DC converter is some strange combination of a boost converter and forward converter, with no intermediate DC voltage between the two. It outputs 120V DC, a bit on the low side for its intended use. Will scope/reverse engineer that more when I have time.* The battery is 2S 8Ah. The case says 3.7V (1S) 16Ah. Maybe the printing stencil was done before the EEs figured out that 1S would run at too high a current for a workable design?* The charger is a balancing design with two stacked outputs. It gets quite hot when charging, not at all desirable next to the battery. The extra diode drop wastes far more energy than a resistive balancer, which, contrary to what many think, rarely even comes into play if the batteries are in any decent condition.* Neither the charger nor DC/DC are isolated. Not required in its stock configuration, but beware for modding! The EEs must have figured out that the cost savings from not having isolation outweighed the additional sales they could have got adding a USB output.* Once switched on, it requires about 8W of load to stay on for more than a minute or two.Comparison to older version based on online posts:* The older version has a 3S 4Ah battery and a pure sine inverter, most likely an off the shelf design modified to fit the shape. By eliminating the inverter part, they made room for a larger battery and increased the efficiency. A big win for its intended use.* The older version would stay powered up when unplugged so it can be used as a small UPS. The newer version switches off when unplugged making it useless as a UPS.As for uses, one that comes to mind right away is to power a glue gun for use away from mains. The DC output precludes using a soldering station (or anything else) with a transformer, but those are on the bulky side for portable use anyways. What I really don't like is how hot it gets during charging, so I'll probably end up tearing down the second one as well and using the parts for projects.
Teardown : LEM ULTRASTAB 1ppm 600A current sensor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TiN
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2015, 04:38:32 pm
content: Fluxgate technology current sensors madness, welcome little impromptu tear-down.If you have interesting idea of experiments using such a device, feel free to comment!At worklab I have 210A capable DC load and few 400-500A capable low-voltage power convertors, and 150A Tektronix clamp system, so can do something with some beefy amps.

author: gamer388
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 13, 2018, 08:39:40 pm
content: Thanks for the teardown and showing us what's inside that current transformer.I use 4 of these at work with WT1600 Wattmeter from Yokogawa.I forgot to turn on the power supply for the sensors (+15V and -15V), and now one of my CT is saying about 33 Amp RMS instead of 1A.There quite a lot of circuitry inside. I wasn't exepecting that much.
Puhui T962C 400x600mm Large IR Reflow Oven Experience? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Reckless
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2018, 10:42:44 pm
content: ? Soldering max area: 400×600 mm? Size: 68.4X50.4X22.5 cm? Rated Power: 2500W? Process Period: 1?8 min? Supply: AC110V~ AC220V /50~60HZDoes anyone have the C model, not the A? Is it good for running 10-15x per day?Youtube review sounds good? Better than the A model.
chineese fx951'like stations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tester43
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2018, 12:55:06 pm
content: Hello,My first post so: hello all!I am on the hunt for a new soldering station.I am considering new Weller to be available soon in EU: WE1010, or Ersa nano/pico and chinese clones of FX951. I like the concept of integrated heater.Does anybody knows if there are internal differences between the stations that are sold as different brands with model name FX951?What are the differences vs the Hakko original version in terms of power and thermal response?Kind regards,
Teardown: $25 Xilinx JTAG adapter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2018, 02:52:16 am
content: I recently got a FPGA board without a built in JTAG adapter so I had to get a JTAG adapter for it. I found one for $25 and figured it would be interesting to tear it down.The build quality is pretty good. Main problem I see is that the soldering on the connectors isn't that great, but that's easily fixed. No idea how it compares to more expensive JTAG adapters since I have little experience with those.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2018, 03:29:15 am
content: The thing I've often wondered is why the Xilinx cable is so much bigger and more complex than the Altera cables when they both do approximately the same thing.
Jaycar / Duratech solder - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: glentek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2018, 02:19:32 am
content: Has anyone used Jaycar / Duratech solder? My whole life I've used Multicore but now I'm retired funds are low. I tried a cheap brand in the past and ended up throwing them it the bin.

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2018, 06:24:54 am
content: I haven't used Duratech solder, but Altronics "Super Solder Wire - THE BEST QUALITY SOLDER"was reasonable, not the same as C511 that I use daily but good enough

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 07, 2018, 07:15:47 am
content: I have used it for years. Does the trick for me.

author: Circlotron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2018, 07:20:00 am
content: I've used about 20 rolls of it so far. No problem at all.

author: glentek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2018, 10:02:24 pm
content: Thanks, I'll give it a try.
Seeking low-level info on programming GALs to fix tl866 linux software - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Frotz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 07, 2018, 09:19:22 am
content: Someone posted a bug report forminipro, the Linux-based program for controlling a Minipro TL866 chip burner about floating point exceptions when reading or writing GALs. In the device attributes file, all GALs have aread_buffer_sizeandwrite_buffer_sizevalue of 0x00. I don't know anything about the low level details of GAL programming. Could I get someone to wander on over tohttps://github.com/vdudouyt/minipro/issues/96and take a look?
Push / pull action buttons - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: danners430
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2018, 08:03:30 pm
content: Evening guys,I've been hunting for ages to find buttons with both a push and a pull action to them, so the equivalent of double throw centre off toggle switches. Essentially normal = off, and push and pull both switch separate circuits.If any of you are familiar with UK railway signalling, you'll recognise them as the ones used on Entry/Exit (NX) signalling panels, which I'm trying to recreate.Currently the only ones I can find are made in Switzerland and cost about £100 a pop... And for a panel with potentially 30-50 of them, I'm desperate to find any alternative suppliers Thanks in advance!!Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
Is it just me or are these DPMs almost nonexistent..? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2018, 07:31:31 pm
content: Looking for digital panel meter, signed, 4 digits.Metric shitloads of 3-digit LCD and LED meters. Cheap from China or elsewhere. A few bucks, no problem.They're all 0-255 (well, 0-200 but who's counting?), 2V range, and I have a 0-5V signal to measure. Ugh. I'd rather get an analog movement.So it's got to be 3-1/2 or 4 digits, preferably the latter (or better).Digikey has this:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/c-ton-industries/DK743/CDPM743-ND/278976It's $50. Let's say I want to spend $200 on DPMs, that only gets me four. I want four right now, so that's okay. But I'd rather have six or eight for projects in the immediate future, plus extras in inventory.A tiresome perusal of Amazon doesn't show anything great from China. None of them document the most basic things: what the display is (signed or not? half or full digit?), what the input connection is (common ground, or how much common mode range?) and so on.This one is well documented, I have no problem designing it into a product, sight unseen.Is it just me or is China actually slacking on a market niche here?Or, alternately: is Amazon so badly searchable that, they're out there, and I can't find them?Tim

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2018, 07:40:00 pm
content: Actually alot from China, if you don't mind the below standard documentation, at least better than none though.Just one example sort by priceout of so many of these 5 digits panel meter ->HERE... and different colors too ..

author: jimmc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2018, 08:45:09 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on March 19, 2018, 07:40:00 pmI've used a couple of similar devices from ebay. Surprisingly accurate but only work for positive inputs.Input resistance is around 300k.Jim

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2018, 08:45:59 pm
content: Are those signed? They don't look signed, and don't say so.Ed: I see these look to be signed,https://www.aliexpress.com/item/YB5145B-LED-Digital-DC-Voltmeter-4-1-2-Voltage-Meter-display-Tester-dc200mV-2V-20V-100V/32849928205.htmland even notes that the inputs are common ground.There are about six other listings (in three stores?) for the same basic device, with varying ratings (poor translation).The only other types in the listing are,https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Four-and-a-Half-Digital-Voltmeters-Digital-Indicators-20V-200V-Four-wire-Precision-DC-DC-Voltmeter/32857126357.htmlwhich seems to be pretty similar but shorter, andhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-accuracy-0-56-Red-LED-display-DC-voltage-meter-voltmeter-can-test-positive-and-negative/32319712361.htmlthis KETOTEK thing, which might well be the same.Is this really it, in the world?Tim

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2018, 08:49:54 pm
content: Like this ->HERE? , again, sort by price.
mantis (original) lens - I want to make one - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sreeb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2018, 05:07:23 am
content: I have a mantis that came with only a 6x lens. I want a second lens in the 2x-3x range.The ones I see on ebay are all in poor condition, very expensive, or both.From pictures, these appear to be a very simple single element design. It looks like it should be easy to copy one if I can scrounge an element.I have a lathe and a 3d printer. I think building one should be reasonable project.However I don't have one to copy or any information on the optical path in the head.Is there anyone out there who could measure one for me?I'm looking for the focal length and the distance between the element and threads on the head.Since all I know about optics is what I recall from high school many years ago, I'm open to suggestions on the design.Ed

author: Pinkus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2018, 03:16:05 pm
content: I cannot help with the technical details your are asking for, but look here:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:222849and here:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1330221This might help you designing your own.But be warned: I tried the above myself and the picture quality was not satisfying at all. You definitely need to use lens with a larger diameter.The original 2x lens often can be purchased used for $20-30 if you are lucky. Usually you can ignore scratches on the lens as they are invisible later when using the Mantis.
Oval LED shape - Part Number - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: 2X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2018, 11:36:51 pm
content: Hello,I want to replace the below LED but I can't find it the same size. This led is from a home light and the space is extreme tight so I can't fit the classic 5mm LED. Aslo, this LED broduce much more light tha a classic water clear LED 5mm. Does anyone know where can I find a LED like this at the pictures? Thanks in advance.

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2018, 04:59:45 pm
content: Looks a bit like a low profile straw hat LED:https://shop.evilmadscientist.com/productsmenu/354

author: 2X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2018, 07:46:34 pm
content: Thank you very much. I ordered the below LEDs and I will tell impressions about the high brightness when I will receive them.100pcs F5 5mm BLUE Straw Hat Superbright LED Light LED lamp GOOD QUALITYhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-F5-5mm-BLUE-Straw-Hat-Superbright-LED-Light-LED-lamp-GOOD-QUALITY/32468997781.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.qegUh6
Sparkfun's Variable Load Kit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SirAlucard
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2018, 06:25:37 pm
content: Not 100% sure if this is the correct forum to post this in, I was thinking test equipment but figured I'd play it safe and put it into Other Equipment. Either way, I got an email from Sparkfun talking about their new Variable Load Kit, works up to 30v 4.5A. Comes with a port for an option LCD. Product shown in the video below as well as a link to it.https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14449Personally I've been looking around for a variable load. So it was interesting to me that this showed up in my email today. What's your guy's opinion? I'm honestly surprised there really aren't many kits available for variable loads.
EMF Meter, any use for pre-compliance check for CE/FCC? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: riscy00
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2018, 08:15:34 am
content: https://nerdtechy.com/best-emf-meters-detectors#comment-44631It would be nice to have low-cost handheld meter to do pre-compliance check on assembled PCB before investing to more expensive pre-compliance check to isolate a specific area of issue.Do they really work or it just waste of time and money. Has anyone tried using the TriField 100XE