front plate with unwanted hole, fix it suggestion share - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2024, 02:45:46 pm
content: I sometimes improve, or redesign old DIY projects, both my own, but also others,I can not be the only one who find a need to remove a switch or potentiometer, and now i have an ugly hole,the best is the replace the whole front plate, but that is sometimes very difficult, could be bend into oddshape or many other reasons,lack of metal work access and special tool is also one of my problems.so here i found a way i like to shareabout middle of this videoyou see the idea i came up withhttps://youtu.be/VoZY_WBXRNYI also hear others say there exist even better more strong 2 component epoxy types, used for car repair and such,I will maybe try some of that next timeif you have any better ideas ? that can be used for remove or hiding unwanted holes, please share.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2024, 02:50:39 pm
content: I would use plastic hole plugs like in the attached. They come in various styles. Epoxy will always visible as a repair. Painting won't help, because in time, it will shrink just enough to be visible.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2024, 03:54:01 pm
content: My goto is baking powder and super glue,dirt cheap,sets rock hard but still easy to sand down.just fill the hole with powder and drip the glue onto it

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2024, 04:57:23 pm
content: not a bad idea, but dont you think the type of drilling from both sides i did, will add much more surfaceand better and stronger adhesion ?if you just drop into a hole, there is a chance the part can be pressed out, much easier.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2024, 05:08:23 pm
content: Quote from: jpanhalt on March 17, 2024, 02:50:39 pmI have seen nice metal (chrome) plugs like this, but only on older equipment. Might be too expensive to manufacture nowadays :/

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2024, 05:27:06 pm
content: the absolute best way is to tig weld a patch by holding it over a thick piece of copper. You can fill small holes, and big holes you need to weld on a patch.For steel chassis you can probobly solder up the hole too. Possibly for some aluminum you can solder the hole as well, but its going to be very flux dependent. Trying to aluminum braze the hole probobly will make you mad and won't work. If you wanna try to solder it get a few diff brand name kits for trying and you might get lucky with one of them being compatible.Then you can also use the electrican junction box plugs, which are metal hole plug inserts with blades you can deform from the back side to make a strong seal.From then on, for glue, you can glue a big patch on behind it, then fill in the rest (or glue in a cover on top of a back patch.But what is the most reasonable way for equipment that is not really worth your time? Aluminum tape

author: voltsandjolts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 17, 2024, 05:31:07 pm
content: New PCB front panel bolted onto the old front panel.

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2024, 05:34:12 pm
content: I made a partial front panel overlay from thin aluminum sheet, glued to the old panel.Then drilled the required holes from the back.Didn’t even need to paint everything, like “it’s supposed to look like this“.The glue method doesn’t always give satisfactory results as on your project with the bubbles in the glue- heating the glue with a hot air gun will make it more viscous so that bubbles can escape easier.I usually cover the hole at the front with clear tape so I don’t have to sand so much.

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2024, 06:57:54 pm
content: For smaller holes, < 6 mm diameter, you can put a large-head (I like truss head) short machine screw in the hole, which will look like you did it on purpose.For plugging larger holes, the springy plugs shown above are available in black, white, and off-white plastic and nickel-plated metal.If you match the panel color (I have a 1/2" plug in a black panel), it is not very visible.https://www.mcmaster.com/products/hole-plugs/protective-plugs~/

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2024, 07:50:40 pm
content: Put an ESD/warning sticker over it!

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2024, 09:11:50 pm
content: thanks a lot for all your great ideas,this is a problem that keep returning to mesince i play a bit with restore or improve, of old DIY or other type of units now and then.I think I go visit some of the car repair parts shopsthey have some epoxy types for car repairs called liquid metaland also the more normal plastic filler, it is also a type of 2 component epoxy,but more designed for sanding real smooth, and it is compatible with most metalsalso thermal range is good.

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2024, 10:20:09 pm
content: Quote from: DavidAlfa on March 17, 2024, 07:50:40 pmOr:calibration void if seal is brokenvent, do not cover

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2024, 10:39:50 pm
content: If you put the panel face down on a hard flat surface, with a layer of kitchen wrap under it, you can fill from the back with your chosen epoxy (making sure there are no air bubbles), with little or no finishing. I've done it several times. If you use clear epoxy, you can even use it for flush indicators lights.

author: SmallCog
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2024, 11:07:22 pm
content: I tend to use a sticker over the front panel of projects.If I change the panel design, I just put a new sticker over the top.I even do this with manufactured products. I've got a batch of 60 GME PSA123 linear power supplies on my bench right now that I'm modifying. Part of this is placing a sticker over the original front panel to both add labels to the newly added screw terminals as well as to cover some surplus holes from removed hardware.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2024, 11:49:56 pm
content: A good, permanent and not too difficult fix is an aluminum rivet. Cut a short rod of a not inordinately hard aluminum alloy. The rod should be a slip fit in the hole, and a millimeter or so longer than the thickness of the panel. Place a heavy chunk of iron or steel against the back side of the hole and hammer the "rivet" so that is swells to fill the hole. If you want to slightly countersink both sides before riveting you can, but it usually isn't necessary. After filing or grinding flush and then brushing or sanding to match the texture/grain of the adjacent panel it will be somewhere between difficult and impossible to detect. As might be expected this is more difficult and less satisfactory as the ratio of hole diameter to panel thickness grows, but the same is true of an epoxy patch.Matching the material also means that thermal excursions won't bother it, and any subsequent finishing operations will not look different on the patch.

author: DiodeDipShit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2024, 02:46:12 am
content: Counter sinking both sides of the holes is correct for strength. Standard two part auto body filler would work, or J-B Weld, which is stronger. These are both malleable and easy to smooth out. Use light pressure with a Squeegee in a few directions to fill completely. ...... Let Dry Overnight..... Block sand even with panel surface. Now, using a good automotive spreader squeegee, apply a thin layer of Glazing and Spot Putty. (I used to use Nitro-Stan Red putty 9001 ) . It dries fast, after dry, block sand with 600 grit or finer. Wipe clean with alcohol. Prime and Paint. ( Read the spraying instructions. We tend to overspray, or don't let the paint dry enough between coats.) For a great look, spray with Clear Enamel after. Do this without skipping a step and be proud of the outcome.BTW, welding the holes shut is messy, hard to file flat and will warp the panel.

author: BILLPOD
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2024, 01:37:15 pm
content: Good Morning Oz2cpu, I recommend re-purposing the hole. Surely there is some part of the circuitry that can use another switch, pot or fuse.