hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
pins Connection of Instrumentation Amplifier - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Moturki
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 05, 2018, 05:40:24 pm
content: Hello...The attached screenshot is from INA114 datasheet, which explains the basic connections of this instrumentation amplifier.My questions are:1) Should I have to use two 0.1micro-F that connected to V+and V- ?2) What should be the value of load resistor (Load) that connected to pin 5&6 ?

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2018, 07:20:43 pm
content: Quote from: Moturki on October 05, 2018, 05:40:24 pmAlways! See 1st paragraph, page 8 of the datasheet.QuoteAccording to the datasheet, it should produce a current on the order of 5 mA with 15 mA as the maximum short circuit current. So, 5 mA is a number.At the very top of the table on page 2, it talks about 2k Ohms. So, that's a number and it represent all of the devices the amp connects to. You wouldn't ordinarily have a load resistor, you would have further circuitry that presents a load.Notice that the product of the recommended resistor (2k) and current (5 mA) yields 10V. This is a magic number, the maximum + or - signal voltage usually associated with a device powered by a +- 15V supply.An observation I made many years ago: Every single number in the datasheet imposes a limit on how I can use the device. I need to understand them all!http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina114.pdf

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2018, 01:22:49 am
content: The capacitors are for power supply decoupling and may or may not be required. For instance they might be shared with some other nearby IC.The resistor across the output just represents the load. There is no requirement to place an actual resistor there.
Pintek PS-605 any good these days? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tokafondo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 26, 2020, 12:43:57 pm
content: Hi all and thanks for accepting me. This is my first post, and I joined because this seems to bethe place to be, when wanting to learn electronics.I always had in the pending stuffbinto learn electronics. I have done many basic works, not fully understanding what I did. Many times they were successful, and many times they didn't.So when I decided to build my own WDC 65816 based SBC, I knew that the learning of electronics would be included in the package, so here I am.My question relates to basic equipment to be bought. I already have a couple of basic, cheap meters and a logic probe. But no electronics basic workshop would be complete without an oscilloscope. I found an used a Pintek (seems to be) PS-605 one. Owner is asking €55 for it, and I'd like you experts to help me and tell me if it's a no-brainer bargain I should go for, or if I should wait for a better one, even being more expensive.I've already seen the thread here about the one thatwattsjakewas (is?) trying to fix, and I wonder if getting one would be more an issue and lost money that a benefit for me.Thanks all for your kind answers.

author: tokafondo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 26, 2020, 09:31:15 pm
content: Hi again. I added a poll as I've seen dozens of views and no replies and maybe a poll would do better than just asking.Thanks!!

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2020, 06:55:38 am
content: Honestly I have no idea as I never heard of that scope brand before. $55 for a no name used scope does seem like a lot, especially if one can't verify the support you might get. Is Pintek even around anymore? If not offer $5 and leave it behind if they insist on more.By the way I'm not in any way against used equipment but that used equipment needs to be serviceable. That means prints and a unit being built out of components that you can actually buy. This is probably a case of avoiding the first thing you come across and waiting for something better to pop up on the used market. Better means a recognized brand name (even if they don't exist anymore), the availability of prints and the availability of parts. Some people don't like used stuff due to he need to fix it up, however for somebody new to electronics they can be excellent places to learn debug and servicing skills. Plus it can save a hell of a lot of money. So yay keep searching.

author: tokafondo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 27, 2020, 10:30:55 am
content: Thanks. At first yes, it seems the obvious choice would be going for a known and established brand.
Pioneer VSX 517 No powering up - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dkakmcafee9883
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 12, 2021, 03:03:51 pm
content: I have seen a previous post regarding this but not a technical person. Unit will not power up at all. Simply wondering if there is a fuse that may have blown that I could replace as a potential fix. If so, where would it be
Pioneer VSX-921-K power supply crashed - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: maxmat486
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 14, 2024, 06:26:10 pm
content: hello everyone,i've got a pioneer amplifier from the trash.so i repaired it one time and it worked for one year. (i changed the top258MN AC/DC converter and a diode on the power supply).but it crashed again, first, the fuse crashed, then, the fuse and the top258MN exactly at the same place . i'm looking for the schematic but i coudn't find it, i searched onelektrotanya.com/pioneer_vsx-521_821_921-k_sm.pdf/download.html#dlbut i didn't find it ... any idea please ?

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2024, 02:21:07 pm
content: Are you sure the type is correct?ifixit has a manual, but it doesn't have a SMPS PCB.PCB number on left of 2nd pic is not clear, what is it?

author: maxmat486
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 06, 2025, 07:14:32 pm
content: hello, thanks for helping, yes the type is correct, the PCB number is 70-28-07032-201-1S

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2025, 10:10:06 am
content: Yes, 7028 is clearly a correct prefix and I also found a manual were almost exact board is mentioned, but no pictures.With luck the same board is used in some other 230V machine.But it's also pretty simple, maybe you can draw some sort of a schematics by your self.Top right of 2nd picture is input and line filter.Top center is main bridge and left of it is reservoir capacitor.Between reservoir capacitor and main transformer is a switcher chip.S-W corner of main transformer is possibly a feedback opto.Then bottom center has secondary regulator and its reservoir capacitors.Under black ribbon cable are possibly some voltage writings beside a connector.Secondary side can overload the main transformer, but it shouldn't blow the switcher, like seems to be the case.A resistor bit up from the switcher in first picture seems to be gone also.
PIR Motion Sensor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: FrankT
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2016, 08:08:35 pm
content: I'm trying to get one of those cheapy PIR motion sensors to work but I am struggling.I've gone through about 3 now and they all seem to die the same way.The module is similar to this...http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HC-SR501-PIR-Motion-Sensor-Module-Arduino-Raspberry-Pi-ESP8266-/191621495655And from what I've been able to determine the module has a 3.3v regulator to power the board, a BISS0001 controller, and a 1k resistor between the Out connection and pin 2.I want to drive a couple of relays, so I run the output directly into the base of a NPN transistor (PN100), emitter to ground, and collector is 12v + 1k resistor + LED, to start with.The first problem is the LED never goes fully off.So I remove the LED and run the output through an 800k resistor to ground and just measure the voltage - and it looks correct, about 3.2v when on.Because I can't find any detailed data on what the BISS0001 output circuit looks like, I start playing around. Direct driving the LED from the output. I even tried using a pull up resistor.After the fiddling, things start going really wrong. Now, the voltage on the output pin is showing 11v. Given the circuit runs on the 3.3v regulated supply, I can only imagine I have somehow toasted the voltage regulator. I have the current limited to about 50mA so I don't think it was a short.So, I guess the first question is, does anyone know what is the output driving circuit of the BISS0001?

author: StillTrying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2016, 08:54:34 pm
content: The output of the BISS0001 is the output of it's op amp, ~10mA.The good news is that its supply can be up to 20V.Google BISS0001 or HC-SR501 PIR until you find your board.https://www.mpja.com/download/31227sc.pdf

author: Kilrah
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 22, 2016, 09:59:02 pm
content: Quote from: FrankT on July 22, 2016, 08:08:35 pmUmm, what about a base current limiting resistor?

author: FrankT
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2016, 04:21:50 am
content: Thanks, that pdf seems to describe my board.The circuit already has a 1k resistor inline with the output, so the base current should be limited to max 3.3mA.

author: StillTrying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2016, 12:24:52 pm
content: Quote from: FrankT on July 22, 2016, 08:08:35 pmIf the output doesn't go below 0.5V the transistor will stay partially on of course, - easily fixed with a resistor, or diode + resistor.If you get as far as trying the relay make sure there's a back emf protection diode across the relay coil.
PIR turn ON two loads, one of them ONLY during the dark - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: FBMinis
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2023, 08:05:45 pm
content: I have a PIR sensor turning ON a camera (load A) when it detects movement, which then sends me an image through Wifi.I would like to use the same output signal to turn ON a 10W LED (load B), but only during the night.The circuit I attached isn't working but hopefully gives you an idea of what I'm trying to do.https://tinyurl.com/2bzf7atsMy thought process was:1) the PIR output HIGH signal is 3.3V, current limited by its 1.5K resistor;2) It currently is used to turn ON an n-mosfet, which turns ON the p-mosfet that allows power to the camera (this is working fine).3) I would like to use the same trigger to turn ON the 10W LED, but only during the night. Therefore the n-mosfet through which the LED current passes should be open during the day. For this, a second n-mosfet would be used, with its gate voltage set by an LDR voltage divider.Is there a better way to do this?

author: Buriedcode
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2023, 08:30:39 pm
content: Whilst I guess the threshold for detecting light level doesn't have to be accurate - just a day/night - I would use a cheap comparator, like an LM393 driving your PMOS for the LED.The gate threshold of MOSFETs vary a lot, but I guess playing about with trimmers would help set the right threshold. A comparator will make life easier, and the open collector outputs of the LM393 can be put to good use - you can do fancy things like AND and OR logic with them. Downside being quiescent current (0.5mA?), and cost - but it'll probably be a similar price to the several MOSFETs you're using.So you can use two comparators, one sensing day/night with the LDR, and the other as a pseudo AND gate driving the FET that drives the LED.

author: FBMinis
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2023, 03:59:17 pm
content: Thank you, adding a comparator is definitely a good idea. I tried simulating it and it should work in theory.The 10W LED has its own driver and works at a constant current of 900mA. I think I need to find a mosfet that works with 3.3V logic to switch and handle that much power without wasting too much as heat, correct?

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2023, 05:28:06 pm
content: You can run the comparator from the +12V supply so you don't have to find a very low Vgs threshold MOSFET.
PISO Shift Register (74HC165) output question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Niisse
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 02, 2021, 11:31:03 am
content: Hi all,I'm attempting to hook up a 74HC165(n) to my Raspberry Pi 4. I believe I understand the operating principles; I've looked at the datasheet and at some (Arduino) tutorials.Whenever I attempt to get data out of the shift register, the first 4 data lines return data as expected (0000 0001, 0000 0010, 0000 0100 and 0000 1000 respectively), but data lines 4-8 return the data as 1111 1111, 1010 1010, 0100 1001 and 0010 0010. I don't understand why this happens. I would expect 1000 0000, 0100 0000, 0010 0000 and 0001 0000. Looking at tutorials on YouTube, this is the output other people get.I'm at a loss. Anyone have a clue? The reason I can't use these outputs is that I eventually intend to multiplex the buttons. I need all outputs + combinations to be unique.Thanks in advance!

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2021, 12:26:17 pm
content: There are many many things that could be wrong with your circuit, and unfortunately my crystal ball is down for maintenance!We need to know the *EXACT* connections between your 74HC165 and the Pi GPIO header, and around the 74HC165. What circuit are you using to drive its inputs? What decoupling have you provided?Draw a schematic and also take a good sharp well-lit photo of it and its connections to the Pi, then attach them here.

author: Niisse
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 02, 2021, 12:41:06 pm
content: I've followed74HC165 part - around the 24:00 mark. My wiring is identical to the schematic he's provided, and I've adapted the code to Python. I will post a picture when I get home.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2021, 02:46:25 pm
content: So you are working roughly from this 'fritzing' style diagram from the above video:Well its got a few problems if you use it for a Pi.The Pi GPIO pins are all 3.3V logic so you must run it from the Pi's 3.3V pin not the 5V pin. Getting this wrong can destroy your Pi!The decoupling should be 0.1uF disc ceramic directly across the top of the chip from pins 16 to 8. 100uF electrolytic connected near the Pi wont be very effective and may cause instability problems with the Pi's 3.3V regulatorAlso, the devil is in the details, which is why I asked for a photo of your setup. I have my suspicions about the type of breadboard you are using and its rails . . .Please delete the Arduino from the left of the diagram and annotate the connections that went to it with the Pi GPIO header physical pin numbers (seehttps://pinout.xyz/) so we can check them!Take a look athttps://www.woolseyworkshop.com/2021/07/02/adding-digital-io-to-your-circuitpython-compatible-board-part-2-the-74hc165/He's got a far easier to read schematic, knows how to properly decouple CMOS logic, is already using Python, and has a Pi compatible Python library for the 74HC165 . . .
PL9823 individually addressable through hole RGB leds - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: FrankT
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2015, 05:51:14 am
content: Has anyone had any experience with these.Available in many places. Here's one from ebay...http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-1000PCS-PL9823-5mm-8mm-Round-RGB-LED-P9823-chipset-inside-Full-color-Frosted-/261654480104There's little information about how to power them. The "datasheet" image on the ebay site seems to show a current limiting resistor on each LED, but says no external components.

author: zhihao50
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 05, 2015, 06:40:02 am
content: seems to be very similar to neopixel from Adafruit.http://www.adafruit.com/products/1734Their neopixel lib for Arduino should work fine with those.

author: RJFreeman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2015, 06:51:01 am
content: As far as I can tell (and for $30 a 100 I think I might buy some to play with) they are claimed to be similar to the WS2811 (except with red and green swapped according tohttp://surrealitylabs.com/2014/08/playing-with-the-pl9823-f5-a-breadboardable-neopixel-compatible-led/)the WS2811 recommends a series resistor bypass capacitor because "We require, in order to prevent power spikes phenomenon and power reverse polarity, series a not more than 100ohm resistor at the po-wer supply pin(VDD). The capacitance 104 as bypass capacitor." which reading between the lines and based on a few comments elsewhere on the web means these things can generate a bit of noise on the power supply so a series R and a parallel cap is advised to suppress this noise.https://www.adafruit.com/datasheets/WS2811.pdf
Placement of Capacitors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Freshman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2025, 11:32:31 am
content: I have a general question regarding decoupling capacitor placement that I’ve seen mentioned in multiple datasheets and application notes. When using two capacitors—say, a 100 nF and a 1 µF—the recommendation is often to place the lower-value capacitor (100 nF) closest to the IC power pins, followed by the larger one (1 µF).Any reason why the smaller-value capacitor is placed closest to the IC? What specific benefits or effects does this achieve?Additionally, from a PCB layout perspective, what is considered best practice for via placement relative to the capacitor pads—should the vias be placed on the sides of the capacitor pads, or right at the edges?

author: dzwer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2025, 11:51:20 am
content: Very interesting reading:https://codeinsecurity.wordpress.com/2025/01/25/proper-decoupling-practices-and-why-you-should-leave-100nf-behind/On your question - smallest value capacitor is placed as close, as possible to the IC to short internal high frequency switching noise(if it is any digital IC), or to prevent an analogue IC of self oscilating on high frequencies, because every PCB trace has specific inductance per mm(mil).Another interesting reading:https://resources.system-analysis.cadence.com/blog/msa2021-is-there-a-pcb-trace-inductance-rule-of-thumb

author: Freshman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2025, 11:55:59 am
content: Thanks @dzwer, also, any suggestion on via orientation with respect to the decoupling capacitor in the context of reducing the impedance between power and ground?Vias on side of the capacitor or vias on the edges of the capacitor? Which is better - for a single via pair and for multiple via pairs?

author: dzwer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2025, 12:08:33 pm
content: Follow this rule:(IC pin)-(capacitor/s)-(trace/via)Very good comment from other forum:https://ez.analog.com/dsp/sigmadsp/f/q-a/64798/custom-design-with-adau1701/166107
Planar Transformers in High Voltage Applications - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: JimmyCad
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 02, 2019, 12:21:36 pm
content: Hi,I would just like to know some thoughts in regards to the feasability of using planar magnetics (inductors and transformers) in high voltage output applications. A company called HiMag have a couple of custom designs (seehttp://www.himag.co.uk/webfiles/fck/files/HIMAG%20A4%2024pp%20Brochure.pdf), one which has an output voltage of 4kV @ 20kHz and one for an application requiring 20kV isolation voltage.Obviously the main issue from my point of view is the insulation requirements. I have seen some patents online that demonstrate the construction and use of planar transformers in HV applications (https://patents.google.com/patent/EP0267822A1/en,andhttps://patents.google.com/patent/EP1536436A1/en.)One uses the primary parallel, secondary series configuration for realizing planar transformer in HV output, but I don't see how this reduces the insulation requirements for the transformer - it is to my understanding that the secondary windings will still need to be isolated for the full output voltage, which will be in the kV range - and I don't see many planar transformers that are rated to have kV levels of isolation between the primary and secondary windings.I am designing a DC/DC converter that has an output voltage of 4kV with an output current of 150mA, so the power is below 1kW. The main reason is to reduce the weight of the converter since this is an aerospace application.As a side question, would using two planar transformers in PPSS configuration reduce the insulation requirements, since half of the power and voltage is handled by each of them? What about using grounded centre taps?If anyone has any input regarding this or can point me in the right direction of some reading material on HV planar transformers I would be grateful.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2019, 07:55:39 pm
content: PCB has good dielectric strength, so this isn't terribly hard, in and of itself. The length of winding, and low impedance obtained, will be a challenge though. This may dictate a resonant design, even if the power isn't all that high.I note in the brochure, they say the HV transformer is made with planar primary and pancake wound HV wire secondary; a hybrid. Not much advantage there.A lot of their bigger units are potted as well, and I wonder if they're ever water cooled too?Tim

author: mojiiim.r
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 26, 2020, 12:50:07 pm
content: hi dear JimmyCad .Did you find a solution to this problem and challenge?And is it possible to build a planar transformer with this level of insulation voltage?
Planet CNC controller and software - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2018, 03:26:18 am
content: Hello friends, I bought Chinese CNC mini machine that came with fake Planet CNC card installed and software does not work, This machine accepts both kind of inputs, Parallel Cable and USB. I decided to buy Planet CNC MK3 Controller and software License.But before taking further step i just want to get some feedback/opinion from you guys if you think Planet CNC MK3 is a good controller and easy to install/configure etc. being a hobbyist i do not have enough time to setup complicated things, it looks me like installation is very state forward as i have to connect parallel ports. I'm also posting picture of my CNC mini and its Parallel Port based stepper motor driver.My major objective is PCB milling and some time cutting, I'm also concerned about how good it can engrave.

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2018, 03:35:01 pm
content: looks like no body ever used planet cnc controllers??

author: CM800
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2018, 06:30:11 pm
content: Quote from: sairfan1 on May 02, 2018, 03:35:01 pmObservant.Considering the topic, maybe a better place to ask these questions, would be cnczone or another CNC focused forum?

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2018, 06:56:00 pm
content: good idea, in past i saw some posts at this forum and i tought will get some feedback, but you are right should look at some other cnc related forums.thanks

author: metrologist
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2018, 08:02:36 pm
content: I'm not familiar with that system. I built my system using an inexpensive parallel port controller and Mach3.I have since read that these are highly regarded:http://www.centroidcnc.com/centroid_diy/acorn_cnc_controller.htmlI was looking at the pro version for extra axis. It looks like a complete system with hardware controller and control software.
Planix 7 Battery Problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jaselbig
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 21, 2013, 08:47:40 pm
content: Hello Everyone,Electronics newbie here, recent mechanical engineering graduate but got into electronics while I was in school.I just got a Planix 7 planimeter (what is a planimeter?http://www.tamaya-technics.com/e_site/planix567_e.html) that doesn't work. Here are the symptoms:-Turns on with AC adapter connected and battery removed-Doesn't turn on with AC adapter connected and battery installedHow should I go about troubleshooting this?I would suspect something is wrong with the charging circuit? The battery connects to the blue and green wires.Here are some screenshots of the board:http://www.flickr.com/photos/97850427@N06/sets/72157634249684009/

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 22, 2013, 12:02:07 am
content: I would start with testing TR1 and TR2 (TR1 is PNP and TR2 is NPN) test TR2 and transistor 54ALR first.one question: will it power up with battery and no AC adapter?

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2013, 12:11:27 am
content: What type of battery?

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 22, 2013, 12:13:58 am
content: Quote from: David_AVD on June 22, 2013, 12:11:27 amshould be 4.8v nicad

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2013, 12:17:54 am
content: Could the problem be as simple as a dead (partially shorted) battery pack dragging the system down?

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 22, 2013, 12:20:14 am
content: Quote from: David_AVD on June 22, 2013, 12:17:54 ampossible.. checking a battery is simple enough, i imagine its been checked already??i personally think a transistor isnt switching over.
plastic film is between components and heatsink - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TheBrick
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2015, 09:27:05 pm
content: Hi, taking apart a motor drive board and the is a thin layer of plastic between the power transistors and the heatsink. What plastic is this? I guess it is for electrical isolation but it must also need to have good thermal conductivity? It almost looks like ohp material. What can I use to replace it? (I've lost one of them).

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2015, 09:29:51 pm
content: That sounds like mica.You can probably replace it with a sil-pad

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2015, 09:38:32 pm
content: Mica was the traditional material, but thin plastic spacers are now common.One used to be able to buy them at Radio Shack as part of a mounting kit with a small tube of grease.The spacer must be an electrical insulator, coated with thermal grease on both sides to ensure good thermal contact.Without grease, there will be small local gaps/bubbles at the interface which will not conduct heat well.Sil-pads combine those two functions.

author: TheBrick
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2015, 09:52:03 pm
content: Yep I can see the thermal paste, thanks. I'm UK based so it looks p like eBay may be the easiest. Nothing listed on maplins and that is the only high street shop around here.

author: JamesHowlett
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2015, 09:55:54 pm
content: Is it a solid plastic or a gray rubber-like thin sheet?

author: Prime73
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2015, 10:02:19 pm
content: most likely it is a mica insulator. search it on ebay.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 26, 2015, 10:05:44 pm
content: Quote from: TheBrick on March 26, 2015, 09:52:03 pmhttp://www.maplin.co.uk/search?text=insulating+washer&x=0&y=0

author: TheBrick
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2015, 10:12:42 pm
content: Whoo . strong google skills. I was searching for sill pads thanks!

author: TheBrick
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2015, 10:17:19 pm
content: Quote from: JamesHowlett on March 26, 2015, 09:55:54 pmThin and clear. Google say 1250 deg c melting point so I might try melting it with my iorn and a wrap tip. If I can't that would suggest mica, I think it would is more likely to be mica due to the age.
Plastic / metal cover for to-92 package - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: namlu
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2015, 11:01:55 pm
content: Hello.I have to-92 package 1-wire temperature sensor. I want to make it look like this:Where can I find the cover on the sensor itself? How it is called? Is it some kind of shrinking material, or just plastic?Thank you.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2015, 05:08:14 am
content: That end cover is likely a custom made moulding. You can make one to protect the sensor using some adhesive lined heatshrink tube, or use some thin wall copper or steel tube and epoxy to make a tube end that will conduct heat into the sensor while protecting the sensor.

author: Andreas
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2015, 08:47:17 am
content: I think its more easy to buy: (if you are thinking of DS18S20 or DS18B20)http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/198284/C-Control-Temperatursensor-DS18S20?queryFromSuggest=truehttp://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/NjkzOTM3OTk-/Bauelemente_Bauteile/Mechanische_Bauelemente/Thermostate_Thermoschalter/Temperatursensor_H_TRONIC_TS1_Kunststoff.htmlWith best regardsAndreas

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2015, 10:42:19 am
content: You'll never make it as small as they do. They are so cheap ready made, in lots of ten or more. When I need to seal something like that I thinly coat it with hot melt glue and heat shrink around it.

author: eejake52
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2015, 09:18:44 pm
content: NB that any plastic cover will significantly reduce the response time of the sensor.On the sensor end, I have used a TO-92 heat sink, and then bent it into the shape I wanted. For the wires leading up to the sensor, plain heat shrink is fine.Jake
Play mp3 from sd card with microprocesor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Mattjd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2018, 12:28:26 am
content: Hi, I'm looking to make some christmas presents, from scratch, with my EE skills. I'm looking to gift some boards that I design and make. The boards will flash some LED's, maybe have some knobs to change colors on RGB leds, display a nice christmas message on an LCD, and play audio from a SD card.I've been investigating TI microprocessors as I have the most experience with them. I'm looking for one with a DAC, as that will make things much easier. My google skills must be getting weak because I'm having trouble figuring out what resolution the dac should be so that the audio sounds good. Additionally, if anyone has ever done anything like this, what speed processor do you think is suitable? Ive found some microprocessors that would obviously do the trick, but they're about $25 a piece before I even pay for the board, the sd card slot, buttons, etc.

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2018, 12:35:06 am
content: Play wave instead, its just a nice stream that you feed into the DAC with a timer, and slap a big flash chip in there, even an 8 bitter can do that.

author: Mattjd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2018, 12:45:21 am
content: Quote from: senso on October 31, 2018, 12:35:06 amactually, I see what you are saying now. I forgot about the decoding part of mp3s

author: BocaDev
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2018, 12:47:23 am
content: I have done this by using the ATMEL ATXMEGAA32A4 that only cost a few bucks. I interfaced this chip with a SD card containing WAVE files. I ended up using a 16MHz clock.Pictures of the board can be found herehttps://catauto.com/index.php/2014-12-29-23-38-29/repeater-controllers/dr-800-wav-player.

author: njohn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 01, 2018, 08:12:12 am
content: For similar projects, I've just added a YX5300 module as a daughter board.It's obviously not as DIY as other means, but it's supper easy to use and cost less than $3 on AliExpress.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2018, 12:02:56 pm
content: There are single-chip solutions that can do this, available from China for veryverycheap. Probably based on a mask-programmed 8-bit MCU.

author: malagas_on_fire
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2018, 10:51:23 pm
content: somebody has build even on a pic12F1840which has 8 pins, 7Kbyes and really thats all she needs:https://dmitry.gr/?r=05.Projects&proj=02.%20Single-chip%20audio%20Player
Play with the Linux on a 4G Modem? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Lord of nothing
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2017, 10:08:37 pm
content: Ok its possible to play with the Linux who run on a Card? I know many Card could make Phone Calls and Huawei Dongle can do it wit the Software but I found no info how to make it with other some different Software?!Maybe its also possible to see the hidden SMS who get send out by the Network Operator?Thanks
Playing with magnets and slot cars - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 16, 2015, 05:14:03 pm
content: I'm trying to stick magnets to the bottom of my slot cars increase the traction and stop them flying off the track so that they will be more amusing for young players and not a disappointment when they fly out of control at the slightest bend and least of speed.I thought of sticking the magnets on the underside of the car to make the most of them rather than try and put them inside much further away from the steel rails. But there was already a magnet there. Would I be correct in assuming that putting the magnet the wrong way up or just neutralise magnetism between 2 magnets and they won't try to hold the car on the track? If that is the case which way up should I put the magnets. One way up they are repelled from the existing magnet or they try to flip over onto it. Another way up they actually sit next to the magnet attracted to it and in fact hovering so that the top surfaces both coincide because the extra magnet is not as deep.Any ideas?

author: cpt.charlie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2015, 10:46:11 pm
content: I think they won't neutralize each other (but they will loose some strength as the magnetic field is flowing through the other magnet), they might try to repeal or attract each other but for other objects i think they will behave as independent magnets, in worst case you can replace the original with a more powerful one.
Playing With The Analog Discovery - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2016, 05:53:05 pm
content: I often recommend the Digilent Analog Discovery to newcomers. It provides a ton of capability in a reasonably priced piece of equipment.My grandson is taking Pre-Calculus and the current topic is trigonometric functions. As a side issue, we're talking about differential and integral calculus at a beginning level. I cooked up a project to tie all of it together by using my analog computer to generate sin(t) and cos(t). This is pretty easy with 2 op amp integrators and an op amp inverter. Once you generate the functions, you can plug them into an X-Y scope and see the resulting circle. Plug sin(t) into the Y axis and cos(t) into the X axis. Along the way I decided to display the results with the Analog Discovery because it can handle waveforms that repeat at 6.28 (2 PI) seconds. The X-Y on the DS1054Z is pretty nice but I can't get enough persistence to see the closed form of the circle. Probably user error...Anyway, I have attached a screen shot of the time domain and X-Y graphs on the same screen. Yes, the time domain is a little scrunched because I wanted the circle to display as 'round' but I can deal with it.See attached screenshot. Yes, I really like the Analog Discovery!
Playstation av connector source? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: psam
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 03:32:27 pm
content: Helllo, can anyone direct me where to buy playstation 1/2/3 av multi connector?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 06:45:12 pm
content: Plenty of places, just search online... and if you can't find the exact part number, perhaps buy a cable and cut the end off.

author: psam
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 01:25:17 pm
content: Please show me one of "Plenty of places". Picture is from console5.com, where these connectors is out of stock. Cutting existing cable is no-go, because it has missing pins inside connector.
Playstation/Xbox drum kit salvage/sell or toss - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: lordvader88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2017, 09:38:21 pm
content: Its a some model Harmonix drum kit for PS/xbox/PC, no idea if it works, so no idea what $$ to sell it for. Whats inside them worth adding to my salvage bin ?

author: GoneTomorrow
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2017, 11:57:59 am
content: Find out

author: mpicker21
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2017, 01:10:58 pm
content: I agree. Take it apaaaat. I'm guessing you'll find a glop top chip but the sensors might be worth keeping.

author: John B
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2017, 08:53:22 am
content: Have a look to see if they're just piezo drum triggers in the pads. You could strip out all the xbox digital circuitry and turn it into an arduino based MIDI controller.
PLC analog input - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Aruck
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2015, 01:20:04 am
content: Hi eevblog,I've lurked for a long time, but I finally got around to making an account to ask a question. I have a basic understanding of A to D and D to A converters, sample rate, bit depth, Nyquist frequency, etc.I'm using an Allen Bradly compact logix plc, and my plc has what's described as four "Universal Analog Input Points", each point having a terminals labeled "V in" "I in" and "V/I in".Can someone explain to me the function of each terminal? I've tried my best to hunt through the pdf's provided by Allen Bradly but I simply can't find what I'm looking for.Thanks in Advance.

author: 128er
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2015, 01:39:44 am
content: Hi Aruck. Welcome to the forum!First ...Which exact model do you use? If It's a PLC with seperate CPU and I/O modules, the type of your analog input module would be good.Dont know the allen bradley stuff exactly (more used to Siemens). But industry standard is 0-10V (sometimes 0-5V) for analog voltage inputs. And 0/4-20 mA for analog current inputs.The "V/I In" terminals are probably universal and you select the function you want to use in your PLC hardware configuration.EDIT:Seems that you can configure their analog input modules in every way you like. Each input independently for V or I, or even for thermocouples and RTDs

author: Aruck
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2015, 02:30:44 am
content: The PLC that I'm using is not a chassis / card type, everything is all built together as one unit.You are correct about the inputs being configurable. After several hours of searching I think I found what I'm looking for. I don't understand why a voltage signal uses 2 terminals and a current signal uses 3, but I guess I'll just roll with it.

author: Paul Moir
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2015, 06:00:48 am
content: Betcha the middle pin provides the current source for the current loop.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2015, 08:42:08 am
content: Can you post the full data sheet for the PLC?

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2015, 09:04:45 am
content: measure across the middle pin and the negative for the current input, and you will likely find a 250 ohm resistor, (4mA * 250 ohm = 1 Volt, but it still needs to measure that voltage so you bridge the voltage sensing pin, and the resistor to measure current
PLCC polarization pegs? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: zaphar
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 24, 2013, 05:16:42 am
content: Howdy, I am trying to figure out what "polarization pegs" are in regards to a PLCC32 chip carrier. I will be soldering the carrier onto an older computer motherboard but I'm a bit stumped as to what these are (and what they're for). Here are the two parts, one with the pegs the other without, and the datasheet:http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/69802-132LF/609-3479-ND/2023294http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/69802-032LF/609-3478-ND/2023293http://portal.fciconnect.com/Comergent//fci/drawing/69802.pdf

author: jeroen74
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2013, 11:34:04 am
content: They are little protrusions on the socket's underside that fall into holes in the PCB. They are used to precisely locate them onto the PCB. You do not really need them, but it might be easier to solder them down as they won't move that easily; provided the board has the holes of course.

author: zaphar
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 24, 2013, 08:25:54 pm
content: Alright, thanks for the help.

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2013, 10:47:44 pm
content: Maybe the pegs also ensure you solder the socket to to PCB in the correct orientation? (so the IC chamfer is in the correct place)
PLCC seating depth questions... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2017, 08:00:59 pm
content: I've not dealt with PLCC's much, but I was surprised that when I pushed one into a socket "as far as it would go", I could no longer use the PLCC extraction tool to get under it! It was way below the surface of the socket. Luckily there was a hole in the center of the back I could push it back out, but I find this odd. Shouldn't it have a positive stop to seat it flush with the surface or something?

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2017, 08:11:26 pm
content: There are sockets and there are low-profile sockets. The hole in the PCB might have a purpose, don't you think?
plcc32 flashing tools - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Domino
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 03, 2022, 11:36:41 am
content: hi,one of my managed switches has a broken gui ("application checksum error .... press key to erase...")according to jtag feedback, erasing and reflashing seems to work but i still end up with the same "FlashCheck Error"what i noticed is that the IP address of the switch is not the default one.if i assume that the flashing would also clear any custom settings then i should conclude the flashing did not work at allflash = 39VF040 (4Mb 2.7-3.6V parallel flash plcc32)money is not really a problem so i could get a tl866II and a plcc32 socketbut since i wont use it alot i am open for other (DIY?) suggestionsi found some posts about a program called flashrom. with this you could probably reprogram some chips in specific hardwaremeaning if i could find a compatible device with plcc32 i could theoretically use thatps:i digged around and there are a ton of devices but hardly any site listing a comparison(XGecu?) TL866II (65E) 40pin socketXgecu T48 (75E) 40pin socketXgecu T56 (175E) 56pin socketV850E2 (50E)CH341A (5E) 16pin socketTVP2588U+ (40E) 32pin socketRT809F (40E) 16pin socketRT809H (40E) 48pin socket
Please advise - burned capacitors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dekiblue
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 11:15:56 pm
content: Hi,My Altec Lansing FX4021 2.1 Powered Audio Speaker System stopped working. I opened up the sub-woofer and it's clear thattwo capacitors burnedhttps://ibb.co/fjzp2RI have two questions on how to proceed.1. The PCB looks burnedhttps://ibb.co/f3CbhRand I'm wondering if that needs any attention, what to do with it, does it need cleaning and with what?2. I can't pull the PCB out(yeah, I know). From the inside it looks like some silicon or such was used tomelt it in place and from the outside it looks like thishttps://ibb.co/dYvwhR. After that melted bloob, the power cablecontinues until it's yet again glued to the wall of bass reflex tube. There is no place where I can just disconnect it.I did few electronics projects loooong time ago, but I have working soldering iron and it would be a shame tothrough away such a nice speaker system, even if it's cheap.Thanks for any answers.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 11:31:19 pm
content: I don't think that capacitors burned, although they may be damaged. It rather seems there was a short in PCB or something else in between of those capacitors. You certainly need to remove all burned PCB material as it became conductive. You will end up with hole in the PCB, if done properly. If it affects some traces, you will need to restore connections with pieces of wire.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 11:36:45 pm
content: Plastic cable fixator is quiet easy to remove, press both parts of it together (inside the case) with pliers a bit, and push it outside the case. Cable then will become free. If there is any hot melt glue on top, then you can break it away. But I would guess there should be some connector where cable is attached. Even if it is soldered, you could just unsolder it, and disassemble the thing.

author: dekiblue
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 10, 2018, 10:37:31 pm
content: Than you very much Wraper, I managed to fix the amp.

author: abraxa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2018, 09:33:17 am
content: What did you do with it to make it work again?
PLEASE ADVISE - how do you separate a trackpad pcb from the plastic it is... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2019, 05:20:12 pm
content: PLEASE ADVISE - how do you separate a trackball pcb from the plastic it is connected to.I have a Dell Inspiron 3737 that has a broken trackpad button so I ordered a new palm rest for it - but it did not come with the trackpad embedded. It looks like a solid plastic spot for the trackpad pcb to fit into - but there are no catches or plastic edges to keep it there. How are the trackpad pcb's usually adhered? Obviously it has to be some sort of close connection I am guessing for the finger to be sensed through the plastic. Any ideas how I can safely remove the trackpad pcb from the one palmrest and put it into the other one?

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2019, 06:14:40 pm
content: I got it, but it wasn't easy. Heated with a air dryer and pried the trackpad pcb out.
Please can someone help identify a component. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: f114
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 28, 2025, 01:49:26 pm
content: The component is from a Philips Airfloss board. with the following numbering:C06B5.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2025, 02:32:20 am
content: DCX123JUfrom June 2014.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2025, 09:07:35 am
content: smd.yooneed.one id's most sm codes.