hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Planes virginity under a patch antenna - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Koen
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2020, 10:58:15 pm
content: Hello! In a 4-layer PCB with a ceramic patch antenna atop, is it useful to have the layer directly underneath the antenna as a virgin plane or can traces be routed ? To keep the usual signal/plane/plane/signal stack. Thank you!

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2020, 09:32:24 am
content: Well, I don't know, I guess you could in some circumstances. If you don't mind having a huge amount of RF coupled into those traces, and if you have some way to stitch the plane around the traces if they cover much length.In other words, no, not even no, hell no.Tim
plantation with revolutionary method ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: harrysmith
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2021, 01:10:19 am
content: Hi everyone. what are the method used in plantation lastly using electronic objects for fascility and to have good organic food ?

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2021, 05:33:35 pm
content: I think you have the wrong forum.
plasma portable fire starters (tinyy HV transformer) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2015, 08:44:09 pm
content: So I have seen a youtube video for a plasma cigarette lighter.It looks like a little stungun, but I see they sell zippo versions. I imagine its some kind of little flyback transformer?Where do you source tiny little HV transformers that go into those kinds of lighters?

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2015, 12:54:48 am
content: Most likely CCFL transformers. Those who have played with them will know just how hot the arcs get.

author: rickselectricalprojects
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2015, 02:04:49 am
content: Yes they are most likely CCFL transformers. Although i think they have been known to die quite quickly when shorted out (compared to flyback transformers from crt televisions)

author: ledfreak3d
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 06:30:53 am
content: that's pretty cool little lighter haven't seen those before
Plasma speaker schematics recommendation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Electric flower
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2014, 07:58:45 pm
content: I want to build a plasma speaker, i have searched for schematics and videos, and there are plenty... tried to contact some people but got no reply.As there are many schematics i don't know which one works the best. So if anyone who has ever built one can give me advice or tips i would be grateful.Budget around 50ish $ (i have flyback transformer and few heatsinks).Not necessary, but if possible jellybean parts.Signal would come from mobile phone.From the tv i salvaged i also have components:TDA8356TDA7057AQSEC3S0680RF B 837TDA 6107QSEC C5386SEC L836(some other passive stuff)I don't have scope so i'm very limited with testing and measurements i can do.And offtopic, can i use block of aluminium without fins for air flow as heat sink effectively as one with same dimensions but with fins?Fell free to ask for more info if i have forgotten to mention something, and sorry for bad English.

author: Artlav
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2014, 09:13:08 pm
content: What technology do you want to use?If you can get a 10-30KV triode tube (i.e. soviet 6C20C) , then you can make a super simple one.Flyback's + to a sharp point a cm away from tube's anode, - to tube's cathode, grid to control circuitry.The (dead simple) control schematic to translate the cellphone signal to the tube's grid:You'll need +12V and -12V, tie the ground to the flyback's -.Plug the cell phone audio into SND port, attach the tube to the GRID one, and the spark would make music after some tuning (center the input signal, then tweak the tube side POT until the sound is best).The sound gets much better once you put everything onto a solid layout and make sure no HV noise is going around.This isn't your usual PWM driven, multi-IC design, however.
plasma stimulation current vs voltage source? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2016, 01:03:53 am
content: So they sell 13something MHz amplifiers for generating plasma.If you have a plasma chamber and you connect a RF current source vs a voltage source to it, does the plasma behave differently?How about a constant power source?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2016, 03:08:21 am
content: How would you be able to do either, when the impedance varies so strongly?Typical plasma systems use a self-tuning load match ($!!!), supplied by an amplifier that can handle very high SWR, at least for short periods. The SWR is very high while the tuner slews to the new setpoint, which is very different between startup (no plasma = very high impedance at the coil/electrode) and operation (low impedance).Tim
Plasma TV Artifacting, Any Ideas As To Cause? Service Manual Attached - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: iamdarkyoshi
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2020, 07:29:10 am
content: --Shit, my bad, meant to post in repair. Stupid fat fingers on a tiny touchscreenFirst off, Panasonic TH-42PZ700U service manual:https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WT0pcLUll_75PJjsLaqB6FppEnmZklDa/view?usp=drivesdkSo I got this poor old TV off craigslist for free, didn't power up. Looked online and the common issue was the 150C thermal fuse in one of the transformers tripping. Ouch.Once I fixed that, I got it working, and noticed some visual artifacts with my laptop plugged in. I'm no stranger to seeing these, but I figured I'd try setting all the voltages outlined in the service manual after I found a link online where someone fixed artifacts and sparkly pixels by cranking VSCAN /VSCN. Page 33 ish in the attached service manualI set voltages to what the service manual asked for, and my wii's start menu no longer had a yellow splotch at the bottom.I did everything except the Initialization Pulse Adjust section. I couldn't find my scope probes.But I've really just "shifted" what colour/brightness levels the artifacts show up. Here's a video outlining the worst of them:https://youtu.be/Q1yFwZAGnssI know this is just a tired old TV, but is there anything that can be done to correct it? That isn't a large steel weight on the end of a stick? This plasma has great video inputs for my older game consoles, something my new TV totally lacks.

author: drussell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2020, 07:42:26 am
content: Could well be a damaged panel if the splotch never changes....Does running a few cycles of the wipe function make any effect on the splotch?If it improves, you could also try running random pixel noise (like old-style analog snow) at high brightness for a couple hours. Sometimes that can be faster and easier than running many wipe cycles manually.Itisweird that it appears to go away at certain brightness levels, etc.

author: iamdarkyoshi
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2020, 07:48:57 am
content: Quote from: drussell on April 06, 2020, 07:42:26 amThe splotch only appears on very certain colours. I played 2 hours of mario kart on it before I even spotted anything.I took some photos but you can't even see it past the moire pattern...Since the splotch is in the middle and the middle is the farthest from the driver connections, maybe it's low voltage related in some way? Every single aged plasma I've seen shows this in some way, where a very specific colour shows up as another one, a bit like failing graphics videoram on a PC graphics card

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2020, 10:47:27 am
content: Unrelated to the repair, it's not worth messing around with. Sell it and hunt around for some LED backlit TVs to repair while the Plasma is still worth something. A lot of people are in love with their Plasmas but it's like compact florescent lighting vs LED lighting, it's a technology we don't need back.
Plastic "BNC" connector on the ScopeMeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Daving
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 04:11:43 am
content: I was watching the Fluke 91 teardown (http://www.eevblog.com/2013/02/27/eevblog-430-fluke-91-scopemeter-teardown/) and Dave kindly pointed out that the connectors are not actually BNC, but a plastic shrouded varient. Does anyone know what these connectors are called or where I can get my hands on them? I'm experimenting with doing TDR (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Time-domain_reflectometer) on powered systems, and I'm using SHV connectors, but it strikes me that I would want to float the ground, which could have lethal consequences with SHV connectors.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 04:15:17 am
content: Unfortunately, I suspect they are custom.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 08:06:45 am
content: Google image search is the best way to do these kind of searches ... searching for insulated high voltage bayonet connector quickly led me here :www.multi-contact.com/products/parts.php?cat=tmlook at the hf line safety bnc connectors.ps. no clue what the core to ground insulation is though.

author: Daving
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 08:52:39 am
content: Thanks. From that, I was able to find it on Octopart:http://octopart.com/67.9765-22-multi-contact-22783193and the plug on newark:http://www.newark.com/multi-contact/67-9760-21/rf-coaxial-bnc-str-plug-50-ohm/dp/93K4880.
Plastic Enclosure 2" x 7" x ?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Mike Warren
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 06:36:59 am
content: I'm having a really hard time finding a car audio sized enclosure. It needs to be 2" high x 7" wide. The depth can be anything from 2" to 6", but it is price conscious, not that I've been able to find anything at any price.I want to mount a project in the space a car stereo fits and it needs to be practical to fit a PCB with controls protruding through the front panel. I'll need these regularly in about 50 quantity every few months.

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 07:30:17 am
content: You know it's calledISO 7736?

author: Mike Warren
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 10:27:23 pm
content: Quote from: Jeroen3 on July 12, 2017, 07:30:17 amNo, I didn't. Thanks for that. unfortunately, my searches still come up blank. All I find is people asking for them.

author: Mike Warren
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 10:29:45 pm
content: Quote from: evb149 on July 12, 2017, 08:55:41 amYes, many modern cars are going away from the standard mount, although often the actual mounting location inside the dashboard is stlll the standard size, but doesn't protrude to the front of the dash.I guess I'm going to have to come up with another way of dong this.

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 11:32:23 pm
content: How about one of these? There seem to be different types.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Radio-Stereo-Car-Storage-One-Single-Din-Dash-Trim-Kit-Pocket-Box-/331919358474

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 11:32:42 pm
content: Google or ebay for 'single din' enclosure.. eghttps://m.banggood.com/Universal-Car-Single-Din-singledisc-Radio-Pocket-Storage-Box-p-931380.html

author: Mike Warren
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 11:38:22 pm
content: Quote from: edavid on July 12, 2017, 11:32:23 pmThanks for the suggestion, but it's not suitable for a commercial electronic device because of the moulded front.

author: Mike Warren
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 11:40:01 pm
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on July 12, 2017, 11:32:42 pmThanks, but the same problem as edavid's suggestion.

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2017, 12:51:28 am
content: Quote from: Mike Warren on July 12, 2017, 11:38:22 pmWouldn't that be trivial to replace with a flat panel?

author: Mike Warren
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 13, 2017, 12:54:27 am
content: Quote from: edavid on July 13, 2017, 12:51:28 amFor a one-off, maybe, but not for a price conscious low volume product. I need to keep the labour cost down.
Plastic press-in locating pins Source? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2020, 08:39:23 am
content: Help...I'm trying to find an off the shelf source for plastic press in standoffs / spacers as shown below. No luck on ebayDiameter ~ 0.1 -0.25" (2.5-5mm)Need about 500

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2020, 09:03:39 am
content: Try Essentra - they do lots of plastic widgets

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2020, 09:04:03 am
content: https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/result/?Keyword=non-metal+locating+pins&isReSearch=0

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2020, 01:32:01 pm
content: Quote from: Nusa on March 12, 2020, 09:04:03 amThey have exactly what I need, however the cost at $15 per makes me think they are actually made of Au.Need to find something closer to $0.15Thanks though
Plastic support for TFT displays - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: prasimix
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 04, 2016, 08:18:23 am
content: Does anyone have any idea where to buy this plastic support for TFT displays (or order custom one in accordance with given specification)?Many thanks in advance.

author: dansku
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2016, 10:43:30 am
content: How many do you need?If its just for testing, you could always 3D print it

author: prasimix
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 04, 2016, 10:49:59 am
content: You're right, but lets suppose that a small series is required (i.e. 100 pcs) or even more over time if the displays with same dimension is used in more products. I was thinking about laser cutting but it has to be 10-11mm high, not sure if cheap laser could cut so thick material.

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2016, 01:56:50 pm
content: Can't you just use 4 plastic posts? Looks like the one in the pic only has the cross pieces to make the 4 posts into one piece, for easier assembly.

author: prasimix
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 04, 2016, 02:01:18 pm
content: Sure I can, that is what I'm using now. I just wondering if someone manufacture such plastic support since it could be easier (faster) for assembly and possibly it could provides a better mechanical strength.

author: CM800
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2016, 02:19:47 pm
content: Quote from: prasimix on August 04, 2016, 02:01:18 pmFor 100pcs, I'd say keep with what you are doing and glue some laser cut plastic strips between them!1000pcs+ Injection mould. .... or extrude and cut?

author: prasimix
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 04, 2016, 02:25:28 pm
content: sounds realistic, but I'm still hoping that someone already had some experience with such item. Or that is really a genuine innovation that comes from Mikroelektronika and not just a common accessory for displays available somewhere in China?

author: NottheDan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2016, 07:26:21 pm
content: Wouldn't that just be a custom injection moulded job? Cheap in volume but the cost of the mould makes low-volume orders rather less affordable.
FOUND:  Play the Identify the Connector Game... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: forrestc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 21, 2019, 08:19:00 am
content: UPDATE: 5 minutes after I posted the following I found it on the TE website:https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-926307-1.htmlThanks to anyone who happened to look in the brief period that this was up without this update.----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------I rarely get stumped by a connector. Sometimes I can't find a place to buy it from, but usually I can at least find the series/type. But I have one that has stumped me and all of my long and mostly successful experience hasn't helped in this case. So, I hope someone has seen this connector or can point me in the right direction.This connector reminds me of a molex (or similar) pin in socket connector, but the mating is odd. I've attached 3 pictures. The pitch appears to be 6.35mm (0.25") based on measurements, but could be slightly different. The housing is symmetrical on both sides and the keying/orientation seems to be handled through the D shaped holes on both ends. The center portion on each side seems to be the latching mechanism, but I'm not 100% sure.Any ideas of what series this connector is and who makes it?If it helps, this is the control-panel end of a cummins/onan RV generator. My plan is to replace the control panel with one of my own design, using the same connector so I can replicate this in the future or replace the cable with a stock one without having to resort to a lot of wiring. If I have to I'll cut and replace the connector, but I'd really like to avoid it.
Playing with HC-12 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Tangent_Tracker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2022, 08:32:07 am
content: So I have a HC-12 controlled from a PIC micro. One unit constantly transmits data, the other unit listens then passes on data it receives to a display.When first powered up, I put the units into SET mode, send AT, then wait for OK. What I have noticed, is that if the transmitter is transmitting, and despite the set function suppressing the received output from the receiver, my PIC cannot seem to see the OK returned. It is only when I turn the transmitter off then my PIC is able to see the OK return, and it seems to work then.I am using a cheap signal analyser to probe the data lines and cannot see any noise, but I wonder if the analyser is slightly more selective than the PIC micro, and if when I put SET to low, there is still noise getting through to the PIC and hence the RCREG is filling up with rubbish and rarely if ever seeing OK?I think I might have a handshake system so the Tx doesn't start until the Rx gives it the thumbs up, but until I get that programmed, Just interested to know of anyone else's experience here?

author: robert.rozee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2022, 04:26:01 pm
content: why are you needing to reconfigure the HC-12 module?the HC-12 saves its configuration in EEPROM, so you only need to configure it the once. thereafter, each time powered up it will return to this saved configuration.btw, over the years there has been quite a bit of HC-12 discussion here:http://www.thebackshed.com/forum/ViewForum.php?FID=16cheers,rob :-)

author: Tangent_Tracker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2022, 08:22:00 am
content: I just like to confirm I am connected and it's working, I am not reconfiguring!AT >> OK

author: Tangent_Tracker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2022, 08:22:55 am
content: I've also noticed that it only receives data for about 20 seconds though!
Playstation 5 coil whine : How to find the component causing this ? (see video) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ed1973
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2021, 08:26:14 pm
content: I have got a ps5 for repair, which suffers from coil whine.First I thought it was inside the power supply, but it was not. The noise was coming from a component on the motherboard.I have made a video with sound about it, so that you can hear it :https://youtu.be/OmLN_op1eQoI found out that it is very hard, with my ears, to find the root cause of this sound, so I bought a MAX9814 Electret Microphone Amplifier and connected the output to my Rigol DS1054 oscilloscope, but however, the sound is too weak.Does somebody know, how to find the root cause for this sound ? Are the other sensitive microphones on the markert with low noise levels, which I can use for this purpose.Any help will be very much appreciate, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.Kind regards,Ed

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2021, 12:09:16 am
content: Use a straw or rolled-up piece of paper to listen directionally.Put a finger on suspect components and see if the sound stops.Note that ceramic capacitors can also make noise.

author: ed1973
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2021, 10:24:46 am
content: I already done that with a straw and other tools. Just cannot locate it.
PLC, BCD control - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: patrickbyron044@gmail.com
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 02, 2023, 02:47:58 pm
content: Good Day everyone,I have a project to do, and i am wishing someone has done something like this before.Using a PLC as i controller.2 x D/I inputs need to be coded to represent Forward, Off, Reverse. Using a DPDT toggle switch.2 x D/I inputs need to be coded to represent Low range, Off, High range. Using a DPDT toggle switch.Another group of D/I inputs selecting different operating modes, 0) No selection, 1) 1st gear 2) 2nd gear etc. to 6) 6th gear. Using a BCD rotary switch.7 x D/O Outputs will be driving 7 x 24V relays representing solenoid valves. in a specific truth table sequence.I have dabbeled with a Allen-Bradley Micro800 and BARTH using Ladder, and I still dont know where to start

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2023, 08:25:22 pm
content: For the first two switches, do you mean DPDT momentary switches with a neutral position? EG, press down = reverse, press up = forward, release switch = off?

author: patrickbyron044@gmail.com
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 02, 2023, 08:35:21 pm
content: Thank you for your response.Yep the two toggle switches are the normal chassis mount, centre off, up on, centre off, down on. non latching.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2023, 11:03:57 pm
content: Well, the first two are easy. I don't understand why you'd need DP there.SP of the type momentary-off-momentary would suffice.

author: patrickbyron044@gmail.com
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 03, 2023, 07:34:14 am
content: You are correct, the second pole is for pilot lights on the panel to indicate modes selected. High range-Low range, Forward-Reverse.I am going to attach diag. shortly.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2023, 11:51:57 am
content: Quote from: patrickbyron044@gmail.com on March 03, 2023, 07:34:14 amThat's not good design practice. The good way is to let the PLC control the lamps. Then you have a feedback that the PLC has actually read the switch correctly.
PLC-controlled Lego conveyor belt - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: wobbly
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 11:47:55 am
content: Built this to practice ladder-logic programming. Works pretty well. Sorts plastic cubes based on a colour sensor and "engraves" those that pass and rejects the rest.Plastic cubes enter the belt on the left side, then pass through a laser beam-break sensor which logs their positions in a very long shift register (300 bits) inside the PLC. Then they go through a colour scanner (which flashes briefly). Red, green and blue cubes go through a (fake) engraver and then pass through a deflector gate to be sent to the "Go" bin. White cubes are deflected off the side of the belt into the "No go" bin.The PLC is an Automation Direct "C0-00DR-D".Inputs used:Home-made laser beam-break (a 5V laser module and a simple light-dependent resistor)Home-made colour sensor (AVR controlled RGB led and another LDR)Off the shelf Hall-effect motor tacho sensor (runs directly from the PLC's 24V rail with only a resistor to drive the PLC's input!)RS-232 input from colour sensor.4 momentary switches for things like Start / Stop buttons, safety interlock etc.Outputs used:Motor to drive the belt (9V standard Lego type, but running from 5V)Servo for the deflector (5V type with AVR to provide simpler on/off activation)Red and Green LEDs for status indicationMechanism was built from parts out of Lego kit 42042.

author: eutectique
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 12:23:42 pm
content: Video unavailablePlayback on other websites has been disabled by the video owner

author: wobbly
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 12:30:44 pm
content: Quote from: eutectique on September 04, 2025, 12:23:42 pmSo that's why I'm not making millions on the youtubes!I think it's fixed now, thanks.

author: Simmed
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 01:10:53 pm
content: when will you do a pick n place ?i dont know what sensor this guy is usingseems to see colors and sort themcould take forever to finish 50 components, but what the heck ?!
PLC Digital Input - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2016, 06:59:23 pm
content: I'm building an 32 Digital Input module, and I'm confused in how the industry makes Digital Inputs.For reference, I took a look inside a Telemecanique PLC (24vdc) I had laying around, and I could reverse the following schematics. I also found TI'sSN65HVS882, which is a chip fit for the job. But it's expensive compared to a simple logic shift register.I had a few questions about this. I'm mostly dealing with stuff directly around the MCU. Buidling robust industrial IO is not one of them. I've looked up the tests they will perform during EFT en ESD tests. As you will encounter most often by either nearby switching. I think.As they will test EFT with respect to FE (functional earth), and DC negative. For what I could find without buying the IEC's.(rant: why isn't this public domain?)My questions1. Where are the clamping diodes?2. How does this protect against EFT and ESD with respect to FE. This PLC has no FE.3. Is there no need for electrical isolation using optocouplers?Current spec for me is that the lines going to the MCU use a digital isolator. But it seems like this not industry standard. And it might even increase the bom costs without any additional gains.I already know that just throwing in an isolator can cause common mode noise issues on measurements if you do not provide a common filter or Y-capacitors. For which you'd need FE.I did found this topic:Robust Microcontroller Input Protection.But there it merely comes down to the solution in the old input module I'm updating.Resistor -> 1 bat54s > resistor -> digital isolator. Which does not work reliably and sees a logic high with the smallest capacitive coupling from nearby AC lines. And it even resets the entire unit when some relay switches nearby.

author: Paul Moir
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2016, 08:44:43 pm
content: All the discreet PLC input I've seen use either optoisolators (relatively slow inputs) or digital isolators (relatively fast inputs). For a DC input into an optoisolator, it's just an anti-reverse diode across the LED to provide the LED with reverse bias protection, a resistor across the LED presumably to provide a load at all voltages, and an input current limit resistor.
PLC interface with optocouplers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Yaroooo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2019, 04:31:58 pm
content: I've found an PLC circuit example with this schematics as output:In this case there's OUT3 as microcontroller output and an optoisolator that drive a mosfet. Out VCC is 24v that is voltage to drive I/O of loads or other device I/O. OUT3S is output of module.I can't correctly understand if it's working and if it's correct. Any opinions on this circuit?

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2019, 05:00:39 pm
content: Post a schematic.Does it look like one of these?https://duckduckgo.com/?q=plc+output+optocoupler+mosfet&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images

author: Yaroooo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2019, 07:58:27 am
content: My image link didn't worked. I've updated my post.
PLC with a PIC Microcontroller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: thomieboy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 03:47:59 pm
content: Hello, everybody!I'm 16 years old and a student at VTI Roeselare in Belgium.I just want to show you guys what we are "designing" and mayby you guys can give me some advice or ideas!We are making as the title said, a PLC with a PIC. It's for the pupils of the previous year who learn to work with programming (Flowcode).I will atach a .zip file with the eagle drawing, don't mind the pcb design, it's not ready yet. If you have any questions you can ask me !Hope you like it, and please leave a comment of what you think about it!http://imageshack.us/f/163/5u3o.jpg/p.s. Sorry for bad English....

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 06:54:51 pm
content: Nicely drawn.Simulating a PLC with a PIC is quite doable and has been done before.Since you already used optos on the input / output, it is a shame that you have to die the ground together.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 07:16:38 pm
content: Really nice. One consideration: The LED and the optocoupler in series might prevent you to use 5V signals on the digital inputs, as too much voltage drops on them. You can relocate the LEDs after the optocoupler maybe.

author: thomieboy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 07:41:29 pm
content: Quote from: NANDBlog on October 07, 2013, 07:16:38 pmHello, Thank you! And about the led, the inputs are designed to receive 24 volts. (or less)

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 07:44:36 pm
content: That's not the point: you don't have to share ground with the input / output, as you have couplers on both ends.And I would also back-to-back connect the input diode to the leds to reverse protect them better - your scheme works now but can do better.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 03:55:46 pm
content: Quote from: thomieboy on October 07, 2013, 07:41:29 pmSorry that I will not look into your layout, but I'm not eagle guy. I was only suggesting the 5V compatibility, because then you can interface it with 5V logic, which is nice.Also, for 24V input, you will have ~20mA input current on the optocouplers. A single 1K resistor will dissipate 0.4W in this case. So make sure that they can dissipate this heat. Usually this means that "the smallest" through hole resistors and 0805 SMD will not be able to handle this, you need something bigger.

author: thomieboy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 04:13:53 pm
content: Quote from: NANDBlog on October 08, 2013, 03:55:46 pmOk, Thank you, we were planning to use a 1/2 watt resistor, and if they get to got a 1 W one.
PLCC Plugs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2013, 05:35:07 pm
content: I have a requirement to replace a socketed 44 pin PLCC package with a plug and PCB carrying a small amount of circuitry. This is for production not just test so mechanical retention and reliability is important.I had a little experience with TQFP to PLCC adapters (some of it bad).Thishttp://www.ironwoodelectronics.com/products/adapters/plcc_clips_and_plugs.cfmlooks like a good bet.Another option herehttp://www.winslowadaptics.com/product/16260but I think it was this range that gave the bad experiences.Aries might also do something.Does anyone have experience with PLCC plugs or know of other suppliers/options?
[SOLVED] PLCC32 to DIL32 adapter schematic need pls - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Chriss
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 03:47:39 pm
content: Hi!I need to build a PLCC32 to DIL32 adapter for my TL886 eeprom programmer.Does somebody have a print layout or schematic and would be nice to sharewith me please?I know, it's cheap but I have no time to wait for delivery and in my region are noone of that to buy already.Thanks in advance.My best regards.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 04:59:01 pm
content: You can buy them ready-made. Check with the usual suspects, like Farnell, Mouser, RS etc.

author: Chriss
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 05:06:19 pm
content: I know that but I don't have the time to wait for delivery.I have to finish the job in 2 days max...

author: JPortici
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 05:49:28 pm
content: If TME has one it may be on your doorstep the day after... at least when we order from TME stuff arrives AT most two business days after the orderor maybe RS has same day shipping (on certain products) in your country too?

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 07:58:50 pm
content: Quote from: Chriss on September 06, 2017, 05:06:19 pmIn that case there's only the quick and dirty:DIP-32 pin header, place the PLCC on a glob of thermoglue in the middle, and start soldering in solderable lacquered wire between IC and pin header.

author: Chriss
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 09:41:29 pm
content: QuoteThat's what I'm searched for!Thank's mate!My best regards.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 09:45:20 pm
content: Still doesn't help you unless you've got both the PLCC and DIP pinouts for the part. Betting the pin numbers go 1:1 is a mugs game that will entertain the spectators![need smoking chip smiley]

author: ale500
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2017, 12:31:00 pm
content: If he wants it for say FLASH ROMs like the Am29F010, then they are 1:1.

author: Chriss
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2017, 12:49:41 pm
content: QuoteYea, that is why I use for.Exactly for 29F010.I didn't wrote it in my first post because I won't takepeoples time to reading unnecessary texts.But, ok.Thank's any way all of you.You are great and this forum too.My best regards.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2017, 01:40:46 pm
content: Always give ALL pertinent information at the start. If you'd given the chip number or said its for a JEDEC standard pinout 1Mbit FLASH chip, you could have had answers like Benta's reply#4 and ALE500's reply#7 in at most a couple of hours.

author: Chriss
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2017, 12:50:09 am
content: Ok.Here is the adapter if somebody also need it.I made it public and share freely with other pls.I also checked the adapter on the AM 29F010 r/w.Works great.
Please critque/show me improvements in my pcb here... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 01:49:49 am
content: Hi Everyone,Please critque/show me improvements in my pcb here...This is my 2nd smd pcb. Do you see any issues or improvements?Thanks,Alan

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 02:05:28 am
content: You have a number of components that do not connect to a track or via. It looks like you have ground planes, lots of isolated vias, but they are not shown. It's a bit hard to comment, you've only shown some layers of the pcb.

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 02:06:48 am
content: It is a bit hard to comment without:1. A description of what it is supposed to be.2. A Schematic.3. Part names and values.Edit: What.jpg

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 03:27:11 am
content: >You have a number of components that do not connect to a track or via.Sorry about that, I've added images of the top and bottom. You are correct, top and bottom both are ground planes.
Please help identify a component  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Miab
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 07:07:05 am
content: I have a welder with a burned area on the circuit board. I am ordering the parts needed but can't seem to find any information on this one item. I was able to borrow another welder to get better views of what I needed. His board was burnt exactly same place but not as bad. Please let me know if you have any information. Thanks in advance

author: Miab
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 07:14:51 am
content: This is my friend's area on the circuit board of the same brand/model welder.
Please help identify connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2019, 08:30:49 am
content: I am rejigging a vintage Stag PP40 programmerIt would be really useful if I could source a male equivalent to this connectorAny ideas what it is called?Thanks

author: johnkenyon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2019, 09:16:56 am
content: 96 or 64 way DIN 41612/IEC 60603-2 connectorNote that you should check which rows are actually populated with pins - the connector shell looks like 96 way, but if the middle row is empty you only need a 64 pin "a+c" connector.

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2019, 10:11:22 am
content: Thanks. I think only the outers are populated... so a+cThe connector isn't straight but has in/outdents... is that something special?

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2019, 10:52:58 am
content: Quote from: NivagSwerdna on June 06, 2019, 10:11:22 amIt's a keying system:https://www.fclane.com/sites/default/files/din_41612_part_numbering_information.pdf

author: johnkenyon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2019, 01:30:24 pm
content: Looking athttps://b2b.harting.com/files/livebooks/en/PRD0200000100063/downloads/livebook.pdfThe slots on the bottom and top are for coding keys. You have to slide one or more coding keys into the socket to make it a coded connector. No keys inserted=not coded.(page 23 of 238).The notch on the sides might be of more interest - I would use the above document to check out further.

author: ArthurDent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2019, 02:08:07 pm
content: Here's a variation of this type of connector I have on a piece of Telco equipment. All I needed to connect was two power leads and two outputs so I installed my own commonly used connectors rather that try to find the mate for this one.
Please help identify these memory chips (DDR2?3) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 12:38:54 am
content: Hello,out of curiosity I've done a small teardown of a bit of professional video gizmo, to get an idea how stuff got done in there.The main brain is a Cyclone III FPGA, using three memory chips. I'd like to know what type they likely are (to estimate the bus throughput they may have). Please find below a photo of the main PCB.I guess these may be either DDR2 or DDR3. But I've failed miserably trying to google the cryptic alphanumeric codes on the chips. Manufacturer is likely a Micron.Thanks for any hints//EDIT: Cyclone III seems to support only DDR2, so DDR3 they are not. Still I'd like to know what the bus width and capacity of these may be.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 12:55:10 am
content: The legendary Micron D9 series ... DDR2.

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 12:58:24 am
content: Why legendary?

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 12:59:33 am
content: Quote from: Yansi on January 07, 2020, 12:58:24 amIn PC overclocking's scene back in the days of DDR2 RAM.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 01:04:30 am
content: Its like current Ryzen's DDR4 RAM so called Samsung's B-die ... but you wont get it if you're not into PC overclocking, especially overclocking the RAM.That D9 was well known to be a beast capable of crazy speed and can bear RAM overvolting, it used to be popular among extreme overclockers.

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 01:08:04 am
content: Sorry, not interested in PC overclocking so I do no nil about that stuff.Can a datasheet be found for these? Interested to know if these are x8 or x16 bit wide.What may be the speed these could run the CLK at? 266MHz?

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 01:47:35 am
content: Just enter the code on the chip in Micron's website to get the actual part number.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 01:49:51 am
content: No need to google cryptic parts. Here is Micron's decoderhttps://www.micron.com/support/tools-and-utilities/fbga?fbga=D9dnk#pnlFBGAPart number here is MT47H16M16BG-5E:B (D9DNK)

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 03:04:43 am
content: Datasheet:https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Micron%20Technology%20Inc%20PDFs/MT47H%2016M16,32M8,64M4.pdf

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 11:39:09 am
content: Kool! Didn't know about that decryption tool.So it is a 16bit wide at 400MTU/s or more. So the overall bus width is likely 48bits.
Please help identify this acoustic potting compound  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dimbmw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2023, 09:42:14 pm
content: Hi guysI found some old piezo transducer in the junk and took it apart, it has this red colored acoustic damping compound that I liked.It is porous yet not too soft, I assume it is originally liquid and it being poured in and then dries.It seems to have good acoustic damping properties yet being light weight.Maybe someone can point me in the right direction on where I can get a can of this stuff?Thanks!

author: dimbmw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2023, 10:57:23 pm
content: Anyone?

author: Conrad Hoffman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2023, 11:24:13 pm
content: It's some kind of a foam. I've seen silicone thermal blanket material that looks like that, but the stuff I've seen isn't available as a liquid or foam. I've never seen potting that looks like that- it's unusual!

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2023, 06:50:15 pm
content: it might just be from a foam mix gun. The red color makes me think of fire safety code.https://sealantwholesale.com/products/soudal-b2-gun-grade-fire-acoustic-foam-750ml#

author: dimbmw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2023, 03:40:39 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on June 18, 2023, 06:50:15 pmThis looks very promising !!! I am wondering if I can get this stuff in the US... might be not suitable for shipping from the UK...
Please help identify this connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alexo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2017, 03:22:20 pm
content: Anritsu MG3632A power supply , 22 pins ( blades )

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 06, 2017, 06:23:59 pm
content: Please don't double post, it creates confusion.
Please help identify this MSOP part - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: matt09
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2020, 05:29:39 pm
content: Hi All,Would really appreciate if anyone could help me identify the IC as in the photo.It's a boost controller in an MSOP package. I've had a good look but can't find anything for this.Many thanksMatt

author: Chalcogenide
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2020, 06:14:48 pm
content: The ZC5 marking and VSSOP-8 packages are consistent with an LMC555http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lmc555.pdfand given that it's an oscillator, it could be used as a simple DC-DC converter.
Please help identifying a transistor - Solved! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: elcrni
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2023, 11:18:56 am
content: hi all,Apologies if this is placed in the wrong forum!So, i am about to revive the old project that includes a transistor switch but having a really hard time remembering which one i used. I remember this one worked the best for my needs so would really like to find the exact model.Photo of the part included. Bought loads of different SOT23 transistors from both genuine and aliexpress stores but judging by markings on this one, i would assume it came from aliexpress. Its an NPN and thats all i know.Google is usually my good friend but this time couldnt help.Many thanks for any help,Alek

author: elcrni
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2023, 11:33:24 am
content: I've found it!!!Its a MOSFET - IRLML6246TRPBFCheers,Alek
Please help me detemine a proper circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: meisstupid
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 28, 2023, 02:36:31 pm
content: I am dying for a couple of days to find a boost converter circuit that can output a constant voltage (19.5) even if the initial input voltage decreases by 1.5v (li-ion battery pack 3s).but till now I have been unsuccessful, I can't trust sketchy yt video circuits, as this is going to power this laptop; from which I am currently sending this post.I can't buy ready-made ones as they're NA in my area.Please help me by suggesting some circuits.PS- I am young and new to the field of electronics and if I start learning to build my own circuit from scratch, It would take months!

author: CountChocula
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 28, 2023, 06:31:20 pm
content: Can you give some more information about your needs? How much current must it supply? What componentsareavailable to you (e.g.: are you okay with a circuit that uses a dedicated IC or do you need use discrete components)?

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2023, 09:10:49 pm
content: You can buy modules from China on ebay, aliexpress, etc that can do this much more cheaply than you could buy the parts to build something yourself. Powering a laptop has some risk, but at least with a boost converter the typical failure mode results in the output voltage dropping rather than rising as can happen with a buck converter.

author: Shay
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2023, 09:52:52 pm
content: What you need is a boost converter. A boost converter outputs a greater voltage than the input. E.g. 5V to 12V boost converter.Building a simple boost converter with some kind of an DC/DC IC isn't terribly hard. Usually datasheets have a basic circuit that you can slightly adjust for your needs. You can also sample a few DC/DC ics and test them. Look on Google for common ICs.Ebay or AliExpress probably have a boost converter suitable for you. The issue might me of low quality, so they might fail quickly or output a lot of ripple (or both), which might be a bad thing.Take into account that with just 3 lithium cells you have about 20Wh. A typical laptop battery is about 40Wh. So you'll get maybe 40% of charge.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2023, 10:50:35 am
content: dont die.You won't find many single cell boost conveter modules that will go to 19.5VThe ics they use for single cell are not generally adjustable/ hackable, but fixed for 3.3 or 5V. You can get single cell boost coverters eg AP3015A that are very easy to apply.I suspect 19.5V is for a laptop- how many watts are we talking here, 50W? Maybe 2.5A. If that's the case then a homebrew circuit is required.