Arne Steen assembly frame refurb - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cheeseit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2017, 11:40:07 pm
content: I recently acquired this quality Arne Steen assembly frame that is coated in flux, which, while taking some time is easy to clean, and where the backing foam is in terrible condition. It is nasty, crumbles and is shaped by the frame from being tightened down, probably for years.I'm sure the foam is glued to the aluminium and that tearing as much as possible off of the aluminium is the first step, and that acetone will remove any remaining bits of foam and glue. I might have to be careful though, not to get any acetone on the painted topside. Alcohol might also work on the glue and be less damaging to the paint?The reason for this thread is to ask what kind of foam to use as a replacement? From the burn marks and the feel, it just looks like regular soft foam, which would be easy to find locally, but I'm thinking that ideally it should be something that is somewhat heat resistent, or what?

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2017, 03:49:59 am
content: Can't comment on the foam as I've never seen one. Let me however offer some advice on removing it.The single sided razor blade is your friend in doing this, especially the blunt hard plastic version of the same. In a good holder either the sharp steel or blunt plastic type will let you scrape a lot of foam and adhesive off without doing any damage to the underlying surface. Get as much as you can off before you start using solvents.As far as solvents go, Limonene (often sold as label or sticking plaster remover) does an excellent job of softening adhesives and is less aggressive to most paints than acetone. However, it is more aggressive to most paints and plastics than isopropanol or other commonly used alcohols, so go carefully. The usual "try an inconspicuous corner first" advice applies.

author: kaz911
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2017, 08:07:12 am
content: To remove really sticky glue - I used Lamp Oil for many years (Lampeolie paa dansk) - that works fine if you cant find any of the more modern blendsin Silvan or what ever they are called now. I have removed many 1000's of labels and stickies - but as always test on a small corner first.. and leave it to soak for a bit.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2017, 03:34:35 pm
content: Try ammonia cleaning solution, which I find removes the adhesive ( works well on packing tape residue, gone in seconds), but which needs to be done outdoors as the fumes are very noxious.For a replacement foam get a neoprene rubber foam, which will survive incidental soldering iron contact quite well. I am using some rather harder extruded neoprene rubber as a backing for sealer’s, just a little work to sand the profile correct first ( 1mm of rubber per side is a lot of crumb to make, and a bit of work as well, I made a quick and rough jig to hold the strips down for this) to the right size. $100 for the correct one, with a 6 week lead time, each, $20 for 19m of slightly larger profile rectangular rubber, available off the shelf.The neoprene is available is assorted shore hardnesses, though you might have to buy a "lifetime supply" of one full sheet to get it. The remainder can always be used as a bench mat though.

author: cvanc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2017, 05:28:38 pm
content: Forgive my ignorance, but I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at? Is this a jig to hold a bare board so it can be populated & soldered by hand?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2017, 06:24:34 pm
content: Quote from: cvanc on February 25, 2017, 05:28:38 pmYes.

author: cheeseit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2017, 11:34:15 pm
content: @all: Thanks - good suggestions on chemicals and sounds better than acetone. I don't like using acetone, even outside.Quote from: SeanB on February 25, 2017, 03:34:35 pmI didn't think of neoprene but it sounds like a good idea. I can't remember exactly what for but I remember wanting to buy some neoprene for other things anyway, and using some for bench mat while repairing stuff would work great too. Thanks!Quote from: cvanc on February 25, 2017, 05:28:38 pmYou mount the board in the frame, populate your through-hole components and then affix the aluminium with foam on the backside on top of it all. You can then flip the frame around and the foam keeps everything in place while you solder the components. Tape might work just as well but is not as elegant. I don't do through-hole as much as I used to but this will surely be useful from time to time.