Connector Type - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: lugaw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2023, 02:08:25 am
content: What kind of connector is it?

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2023, 02:36:16 am
content: It seems to be a Cannon of the 16-11 series.From Googling, it looks like they have a large number of different types which can be male or female depending on the choice of insert.On Reddit, someone is looking for (I think) the mating (male) version.Someone else quoted part # MS3101A16-11S.

author: lugaw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2023, 02:52:27 am
content: I wanted to buy something to connect to it or am I better off just replacing it with a common connector?

author: gslick
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2023, 03:36:29 am
content: Maybe the mating connector part would be MS3106A16-11P. Those seem to be easily available, although not cheap. Probably best to keep the original connector if the cost of the mating connector isn't too expensive for you.

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2023, 03:44:43 am
content: The original connector from Keithley is a standard 16-11 mil-style connector, but with custom low-thermal-emf prongs in place of the normal tin-plated ones.

author: lugaw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2023, 04:17:42 am
content: Quote from: gslick on February 16, 2023, 03:36:29 amThanks for this information, it is really helpful.

author: Swainster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2023, 12:49:36 pm
content: By coincidence, I was just preparing one of these cables for my Keithley 181. The connector I am using is Amphenol 97-3106A-16-11P, along with back shell 97-3057-1008-1. Actually, I bought 97-3106A-16-11PZbecause it was half the price, but you need to pull out a spring clip to reset the position of the insert... it's a bit fiddly and makes a mess of the aluminium connector body. Next time I'd probably source a replacement spring clip and cut the old one off.At some point you may wonder how to connect the shield, as there is no obvious clamping or attachment point with this series of connectors. I will follow the original keithley method as shown in this thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/metrology/keithley-182-leakage/,which clamps the shield between 2 brass washers. I've just ordered some M10 washers which should fit.For further reference:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/wtb-keithley-1486-connector-1506-or-1507-input-cable/

author: lugaw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2023, 06:40:22 pm
content: Quote from: Swainster on February 16, 2023, 12:49:36 pmWow, thanks for the information about the part number of the back shell. I didn't know how to start looking for that part. :/I saw a full connector in GMarket in Korea for only $6 USD with the back part. Sadly I dont live in Korea anymore and they don't ship overseas. I have this meter for over a year now in storage since I don't have the connector. It does work but it's too sensitive and needs lot shielding and proper connector to work on the low settings.

author: Swainster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2023, 03:00:07 am
content: Haha, my situation is pretty similar. I saw the 181 at a local surplus dealer when I was sourcing an AC power supply for work. I couldn't leave it gathering dust on their shelf so I brought it home to gather dust on my shelf instead. That must have been well over a year ago as I've moved into a new lab since then. In that time I've only used it for monitoring a 10V reference, so I've never actually seen the low voltage range in action... hope it works!