A few soldering tools newbie questions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: epic_ziver_D
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 29, 2019, 08:10:31 pm
content: Is using random solder bad, I heard some people say that brand names only, and if so is Kester fine because I also hear some people say Multicore/Loctite only. (I am aware that I should get 63/37, which seems hard to find in the Multicore/Loctite brand, and that I should get sub 0.5mm solder).Also what flux type is better for just general use, RMA, "normal" or No-Clean. And when cleaning boards should I use some board cleaning liquid or is IPA ok (I heard that it doesn't always clean all of the Flux or the Oils).Does anyone have experience with BangGood (Planning on buying a soldering station, the station itself I know a person who got it and likes it but the site itself (Support, shipping and generally the quality of products)?Would this pen be any good (In reviews I saw a few people saying the pen comes dry, I'm willing to take the risk just wondering if when it works it would be any good).And would getting components like LEDs and Resistors be better from somewhere like banggood or should I stick to Amazon or grab stuff from eBay.

author: 0culus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2019, 08:39:01 pm
content: I have a pound of Kester 63/37 and have no complaints. The flux core isn't as smelly as the Chinese crap either.

author: jazper
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2019, 11:09:29 pm
content: Kester 63/37 is as good as multicore.Kester 2% silver is nicer again, 62/36/2, but you pay more for it for the silver contentRegarding flux, Loctite/multicore, kester, electrolube are the brands I use. Electrolube pens work great.I use and recommend this station:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/KSGER-Version-3-0-T12-Temperature-Digital-Controller-Soldering-Station-Electric-Soldering-Irons-Tips-9501-Alloy/32882138642.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4dfa4c4d67iOojIt's not perfect, but it's cheap and works well.

author: epic_ziver_D
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 30, 2019, 05:54:09 am
content: Yea I was looking that exact soldering station (and am planning to get it) just in Banggood and iirc it has a different handle

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2019, 08:10:40 am
content: 63/37 is recommended because this mix of metals in the solder makes it "euctetic" - this means that the solder changes from liquid to solid within a very narrow temperature range, around 1 degree Celsius.So when you solder, as soon as the solder goes below 183 degrees Celsius, it practically "snaps", it goes from liquid to solid. It's nice because you can literally see the change with your eyes and you know once it's solid, your job is done.The more common 60/40 solder is not euctetic, it will go from liquid to solid across a wider temperature range, at around 180 degrees celsius. This makes it a tiny bit better for hobbyists with poor quality soldering irons, as the solder will stay liquid for longer time but once you use 63/37 you'll appreciate that euctetic property.63/36/2 is also euctetic and the 2% of silver can be good if you're soldering a lot of ceramic components like surface mounted resistors and capacitors, but fewer and fewer components actually have silver on their terminations, to make sense to use solder with silver for better chemical connection between solder and terminals. I'd say it's not worth spending the extra money if you're a beginner.I can't stress enough how much it matters to buy a solder from a company with reputation like Multicore, Kester, Henkel , Stannol , Edsys, MG ChemicalsYou should get solder around 0.5mm - 0.8 mm and for a beginner, 2% or more flux would probably be best choice.Fluxes ... you have RA (activated rosin) , RMA (rosin mildly activated), no-clean ... stay away from others like organic or water soluble fluxes, these often require cleaning.RA, RMA and no-clean you can usually leave the flux residue on boards and they won't cause problems, and you can clean them with isopropyl alcohol or aceton or other solvents.Since you're in Israel , see if you can order stuff from Farnell.Here's the solder wires they have :https://uk.farnell.com/c/tools-production-supplies/soldering-stations-accessories/solder/solder-wireAnd they also have some soldering stations which may be cheap enough to be worth buying from them instead of waiting for packages to come from China, here's a linkSoldering stations :https://uk.farnell.com/w/c/tools-production-supplies/soldering-stations-accessories/soldering-stations/soldering-stations/prl/results?sort=P_PRICEFor example they have the classic Hakko 936 clone, rebranded Yihua (or whoever makes them), tips are cheap, heating elements are cheap etc etc :https://uk.farnell.com/tenma/ss-207bc-f/soldering-station-60w-240vac/dp/2565326They also have the rebranded Atten AT938D stations which are decent :https://uk.farnell.com/tenma/21-10115-eu/soldering-station-60w-220v-eu/dp/2062627I also wanted to recommend TME.eu , they'd probably have cheap shipping to you, but they seem to stock only lead free solders these days and the soldering stations they stock are not cheap.. the cheapest i would be comfortable suggesting would be around 120$ there.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2019, 12:59:21 pm
content: Quote from: epic_ziver_D on January 29, 2019, 08:10:31 pmIf you value your health don't buy Chinese solder or flux, you have no idea whats in it. Avoid mainland Chinese electronics in general, especially consumer stuff, low quality and lacks safety.Brand components are often counterfeited from China, and otherwise you are buying cheapest of the cheap. It may be convenient to do all your shopping from China but it has a cost attached to it. Aside from race to the bottom in terms of quality it does nothing support local distributors who sell quality brands. When they are out of business we are screwed. Even my local electronics store is full of cheap Chinese components for a profit. If they don't even bother to stock a quality alternative, why would I bother to buy junk I can't even get a datasheet on?Certain things like PCBs are unavoidable, flux pens well they have those counterfeited as well. It's not like you are going to be running through reels of solder so those type of consumables are like buying spices for the kitchen, you get some then use it, as you need more build it up over time.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2019, 01:15:09 pm
content: Quote from: mariush on January 30, 2019, 08:10:40 amI think that one is a Atten as well £45.34 and the real deal Hakko FX-888D is £88.98 from Dancap.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 31, 2019, 01:09:28 am
content: I have Kester 44 63/37 solder .8 mm and I use MG Chemicals 835 liquid RA flux here. Works for anything I do. If I need lead free I have AIM metals SN100C in .508 mm and it works well. I do have a dedicated tip for my Metcal so there is no cross contamination.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2019, 02:10:23 am
content: Quote from: jazper on January 29, 2019, 11:09:29 pmHere is a review of that unit:

author: epic_ziver_D
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2019, 10:55:29 pm
content: I think I'll just get a KSGER soldering station, along with some Kester flux and solder because my local Hakko distributor has them, The thing is that with solder remover, my Hakko distributor has Jelt cleaning liquid but its much more expensive than for say 99% IPA but I heard some people really don't recommend it... (Also how would you recommend applying Flux/Flux Cleaner). Also, shipping from Farnell seems very expensive rn.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 03, 2019, 07:11:13 pm
content: I use small squeeze bottles with needle applicators on them:https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-SOFT-PLASTIC-20ml-STEEL-NEEDLE-TIP-BOTTLES-GUN-OIL-GLUE-INK-LIQUID-CRAFTS-FLUX/201481877669?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649I keep distilled water, 91 and 99.995 IPA and MG Chemicals 834 RA flux. I even use them in my work toolbag, the 97 IPA and distilled water for cleaning company equipment.If you go with KSGER that used the Hakko T12 tips, try some different clone tips. Figure out the few you will use the most and purchase original Hakko tips, you won't regret it. Yes, they are more expensive but are also more reliable, consistent and they will last longer.

author: epic_ziver_D
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 03, 2019, 07:47:19 pm
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on February 03, 2019, 07:11:13 pmYea I was planning to buy knock-off tips and use them while they last and later buy originals, so I only have to buy a few and so I don't need to sink so much money upfront, and is IPA really enogh for cleaning flux? because where I live super clean 99% IPA costs half of the only easy to get flux remover (Jelt 9418)As far as flux it would be easiest for me to get Kester 186 (RMA) or 950E or 959T because I can get that locally. (BTW I can't find the diffrence betwen 950E and 959T). Is getting MG Chemcials flux really much better, if so I will find a way to get but I would prefer buying stuff like that locally. But regardless as long as it wont cost too much I would buy better flux, not now because I am trying to reduce upfront costs for buying tools)Also is Hakko wick any good (and is Jelt wick any good?) and what thickness wick should I be getting (Been hearing anywhere between 0.9mm and 2.5mm, and I can get between around 0.9mm and 3mm).Would getting a 493 smoke absorber still be any good (much cheaper than a FA-400 here) if not any recommendations?

author: jayeye
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2019, 09:44:07 pm
content: Quote from: epic_ziver_D on February 03, 2019, 07:47:19 pmFlux removers are a combination of ethanol, isopropanol, acetone, and ethyl acetate. The spray versions use tetrafluoroethane (which is also a solvent) as a propellant.Look at the MSDS for the MG flux removers for details:https://www.mgchemicals.com/products/solder-and-accessories/flux-removers/The benefit of the MG stuff is that you can get it in a pressurized can, but a wash bottle will probably do almost as well. Wash bottles are usually LDPE with PP caps; both will resist the IPA/Acetone/ETAC cocktail for reasonable periods of time, but better to mix them fresh./ji

author: jazper
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2019, 09:58:28 pm
content: I use goot wick (cheap on aliexpress/ebay). I have three different sizes 1.5mm, 2mm and 2.5mm I find I use the 2mm the most.I always find using a flux pen, (electrolube) when removing solder makes a big difference.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2019, 04:23:50 pm
content: Quote from: jazper on February 05, 2019, 09:58:28 pmGootwick from ali/ebay is practically guaranteed to be fake, which is why you're needing to add flux. Instead, buy good quality wick. (IMHO, MG Chemicals is the best, being a far finer weave than the most common suggestion, which is Chem-Wick.)