hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Firmware Dump Elgato Stream Deck XL anyone? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: 0xPIT
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2024, 01:34:30 pm
content: Hi there,I'm trying to repair an unresponsive Elgato Stream Deck XL with OK power supplies,and was wondering if anyone could dump me their flash contents? The flash is a XT25F32B.Thankspit

author: zhanster
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 15, 2025, 01:45:12 pm
content: Hey, i have dump from my Stream Deck 5x3. There is was the same XT25F32B. But in my case this one XT25F32B was with broken addresses, so i replace it with another one.So if you steel need this firmware, i can sell it to you by symbolic 10 dollarszhan.krivoy@gmail.com

author: 0xPIT
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2025, 02:28:53 pm
content: Thanks, I've completed the repair in the meantime.Root cause were both DC/DC converters (TLV62568DBVR) – see picture attachedAlso, not sure if it's a good idea or in the spirit of this forum to ask for money, esp. for software you obtained the way you did.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2025, 07:33:01 pm
content: you have free nuvoton tools if the mcu is a nuvoton to make dumps on other threadsand or for the XT25F32B since its an SPI device, you have cheap programmers who clip on it, hold the mcu in reset and normally you should be able to dump the eepromhttps://github.com/Droid-MAX/SNANDerhttps://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/XP866-USB-SPI-Programmer-Full-Set_1600868985830.html
Firmware dump for LP Technologies LPT-1250 spectrum analyzer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2020, 09:30:18 pm
content: Hi,Is there anyone here with a working LPT-1250 spectrum analyzer and willing to help a TEA fellow with the dump of the firmware EEPROM, please?I have one such unit for which I suspect the firmware got corrupted somehow.Thank you!
Firmware dump from TTi multimeter model 1906 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Andrejka
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2022, 08:45:06 am
content: Hello,Maybe someone has firmware dump from TTi multimeter model 1906 ? I need version 1.20Many Thanks

author: ace_ventura
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 27, 2023, 08:50:25 pm
content: Hi,this is dumps from my 1906 v1.20
Firmware for DC2039A Evaluation Board [PIC16F1459] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Ventran
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2023, 03:42:13 pm
content: Hello,I am experimenting with aDC2039Aevaluation board for ICLTC4015. I am looking for firmware for thePIC16F1459microcontroller. This MCU communicates with the LTC4015 via I2C and it is necessary for use the GUI interface provided by Linear Technology. Unfortunately, I have erased the MCU memory and cannot communicate with the board.Does anyone happen to have a dump of the flash memory for the PIC16F1459 firmware that they could share or provide assistance on how to recover it?

author: Ventran
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2023, 09:48:34 pm
content: I found the official instructions on how to get the factory firmware from PIC16 on the DC2039a board. However, I can't find the memory dump anywhere.

author: Ventran
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2023, 01:20:30 pm
content: I finally got the factory firmware for the PIC. Thank you for interesting.
firmware for PM6304 V1.8, PM6306 V1.6 RCL meter - Philips / Fluke / Wayne Kerr  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mzspring
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2025, 02:41:12 am
content: firmware for PM6304 V1.8, PM6306 V1.6 RCL meter - Philips / Fluke / Wayne KerrPM6306 firmware version has V1.3 V1.4 V1.5 V1.6PM6306 firmware version has V1.8You can also download it from my websitePM6306 V1.3 V1.4 V1.5 V1.6http://www.dt830.com/thread-7946-1-1.htmlPM6304 V1.8http://www.dt830.com/thread-7945-1-1.html
Firmware for Quadra Chek QC100 or QC200 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Steno
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 12, 2025, 05:12:34 pm
content: I'm new here, a friendly hello to everyone.I have the following problem. I have a defective QC200 with missing firmware. I have already asked several companies, no more support.I know the chances are slim. But can anyone here help?Best regards, Steffen
Firmware upgrade E44xxB ESG Firmware B.03.02  for Agilent Signal Gen Solved - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Ordinaryman1971
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2019, 05:26:09 am
content: Hello, looking for a copy of the E44xxB ESG Firmware B.03.02. I've tried to access it on Agilent website but to no avail, I can't download it.Need this version to upgrade the E4430B with older... 2.0something firmware.Anybody possibly has a copy of it?

author: testpoint1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2019, 11:59:16 am
content: Quote from: Ordinaryman1971 on May 15, 2019, 05:26:09 amonly have E4438C, no B version.
First short with an Fluke Scopemeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ElecT-Ron
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 24, 2023, 05:14:31 pm
content: So, i have recently acquired the 123b Scopemeter from Fluke, and I was under the impression that this scope was channel isolatedWell, I was probing two MOSFETs in a charger circuit to check if they were gone. The control circuit is modulated by one of these transistor. I first probed the gate, and the incoming signal was about 0.2V on both.Probing the drain, with common ground on both channels caused a short circuit. I havent measured the resistance of the ground probes before, again, because i was under the impression the unit was isolated. I sent a test signal into both channels and they seem good. But the thing worrying me now is that i only measure 160 ohm over channel grounds and 80nF. Are they isolated.I now realize that the high frequency over a cap can cause the short and should have used a differential probe on the second channel.Anyways. On my 124 Scopemeter the ground channel impedance resistance is 0.8kohm.Can somebody please explain why i am seeing so low values on isolated scopes, or are these not isolated?

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2023, 08:50:56 pm
content: AFAIK, they're not isolated. There's no indication on them that the channels are isolated from each other. I don't have either here to test, but many older 2-Ch Scopemeters were not isolated between the channels and you're clearly measuring that they are not.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2023, 09:09:12 pm
content: See the block diagram on page 3-2 of the Service Manual or the schematics in Figs 9.1 and 9.2,https://assets.fluke.com/manuals/123_124_smeng0000.pdf. The input "grounds" have a connection to each other through two PTC resistors.
Fisher power amp keeps blowing line fuse. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Bargainhunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2021, 08:08:17 pm
content: I can't seem to find the reason my Fisher amplifier keeps blowing the 7 amp slo-blo fuse. It plays fine on my test bench but when I connect it up the my other equipment. The fuse will blow. Sometimes it plays for days without blowing the fuse. I checked my speakers and speaker connections and no problem. I checked the fisher to see if one side of the line was connected to the chassis but it's okay. Yesterday the fuse blew again and I replaced it. The fuse again blew so I reversed the AC plug (not polarized) and the fuse did not blow. My next step is to see if my pre-amp has one side of the AC line connected to ground. This may or may not be associated with the fuse blowing but after playing a tape on my Pioneer RT-909, the tape will slow down after 15 minutes or so. Any ideas? I've attached the schematic of the Fisher amp.Thank you for your help.
Fisher Scientific T-30 Metal Detector - Circuit schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jimmyboy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 21, 2020, 04:03:55 pm
content: Looking for service manual for this old thing or a very similar detector it is from 1965 with germanium transistors .. I didn't think there was any real use for it until someone asked.. some photoshttps://imgur.com/a/0fV72w5.. board photoshttps://imgur.com/a/BlseVfS

author: SMdude
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2020, 11:37:07 am
content: You could try asking athttps://www.geotech1.com/forums/forum.phpOn the bright side, it is not a very complex circuit, so it should not take too long to whip one up.What problem are you having?
fix - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: firas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2024, 01:48:56 pm
content: hi>Send me a theft detector device for a clothing store, model (cross point primus rf25)The problem is that the alarm does not work. Most of the power supply voltages have been checked and are working. I suspect that the inductance of the parts is being picked up by a defect, I think, with (rf)Has anyone fixed it?
Fixed a clock radio, but is capacitor choice ok? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mc349iii
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2021, 02:40:43 pm
content: I've got a 20+ year old Hitachi Clock Radio which is mains powered. I had noticed that the LED 7 Segment digits were becoming dim and then they started to flicker.Opened it up and it has a transformer based supply and I instantly noticed a bulging capacitor which seems to be connected across the supply feeding the main IC (it only has the one!). It was 15V 440uF, of course I didn't have that value, but I measured the voltage across the old one and it was 9v so I instead I picked the nearest I had which was a 10v 220uF to try and that seems to have fixed things just fine. I clipped off the old cap's leads and soldered the new one directly onto the old leads, so I didn't even need to remove the board. So a very easy fix.Does my choice of cap pose any risk? Should I be ordering a closer match to the original? Will it just be a longevity issue?

author: tunk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2021, 02:46:22 pm
content: The measured 9V might be an average, i.e. the max could be more than 10V.What's the voltage with the new capacitor?A worst case would be that it blows up. If you have an oscilloscope you could check.

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2021, 02:53:06 pm
content: Quote from: mc349iii on April 08, 2021, 02:40:43 pmYour device probably was failing due to its actual capacitance reducing to a level it could not function correctly. You clearly have found a level that works but with reduced headroom so as you say the longevity could be an issue. Normally you would aim for a value that had the same capacitance and equal or greater voltage rating. 16V 470uF would be ideal and cheap on ebay. If you exceed the voltage rating on a capacitor all bets are off and it could fail quickly... so "do you feel lucky punk"?

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2021, 02:58:37 pm
content: I'd go for a 16 or 25V 470µF electrolytic. When replacing filter caps choose one with the same capacitance or little bit more. The voltage rating should be 20% higher or more than the maximum voltage.

author: mc349iii
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2021, 02:58:59 pm
content: I do have a scope, but tend to shy away from waving it anywhere near mains powered stuff.I tend to stick with Arduino USB battery bank powered things.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2021, 03:02:21 pm
content: I agree... go for higher voltage rating, 16v or 25v should be fine.As for actual capacitance, I doubt the circuit is very picky.. 470uF should be perfect, but it will probably work with as little as 270-330uF just fine.You could also parallel 2 capacitors ... 2 in parallel means double capacitance, same voltage rating. 2 in series means half capacitance, double voltage rating.

author: mc349iii
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2021, 08:45:33 am
content: Thanks all. Just ordered a 16V 470uF replacement. 20p each from eBay (in a pack of 10).
Fixing a Biometra thermal cycler - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ji54
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 19, 2023, 01:16:34 pm
content: Hi,I am sorry, not sure if I am in the right session of the forum, but will try. I would like to repair something :-)I am also not really very knowledgeable in modern electronics, but did something with it as an hobby before (but this was about 30 or 35 years ago, so other times, and don't really remember much about it).Anyway, I have an old Biometra thermal cycler that I would like to fix (this is a piece of scientific equipment). The problem with it is that the inlet fused socket is damaged or broken. I would like to find a suitable replacement, but I cannot really understand the information on the label of the socket (so that I can buy some compatible socket from some place). In the PDF file attached I have photos of the broken socket and the information printed on its side. Unfortunately, the original company who sold this equipment no longer exists, and the current succeeding company doesn’t fix these old pieces equipment (I am in the UK).I would be grateful if someone with expertise in this stuff could give some advise about some compatible replacement.Many thanks,

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2023, 01:55:36 pm
content: That's a fused IEC 60320 C14 appliance inlet, with integral line filter, and what looks like spade terminals for the internal wiring. The form factor is pretty standard, so just about any will do if it has the same style mountings, and the fuse below the connector, and an adequate current rating.Search keywords: "C14 inlet" "filtered" "fused"

author: fmashockie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2023, 03:12:55 pm
content: Search 'AC power entry module' on Mouser or DigiKey. I found a few different options for you that should work fine if it fits the chasis frame. Just stick a 2A fuse in there instead of 6A. If this one doesn't work for you, just make sure whichever one you find is rated for your mains voltage and amperage. Don't be concerned about matching the EMI filter circuit exactly.https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-PB/6EGG8-2?qs=SbJbQb%2FYH2ysfH4YClI%252B%2FA%3D%3Dhttps://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Schurter/5200.0623.1?qs=PRB6hLq1s9e9Zv%252BCRJ82Rg%3D%3DI work as a lab instrumentation engineer for a biotech company so I have fixed my fair share of thermal cyclers

author: ji54
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 19, 2023, 03:40:31 pm
content: Great! Will search about these options. Many thanks.
Fixing a design mistake on a PCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: transistor_fet
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 14, 2020, 11:51:35 pm
content: I designed a PCB and had it printed but I made a mistake in the design. A chip select signal going to two memory chips actually needs to be split and each chip CS should be contingent on on one of two other select signals (a high or low byte select, which could both be active at the same time). It only matters for the write cycle, so it could also be tied into that signal instead. Normally I'd use an OR gate for each chip select, since all the signals are active low, but the trouble is I only have one spare OR gate on the board (and one spare inverter). Is there some kind of hack I could do (cutting tracing, soldering jumper wires, maybe adding discrete parts) to get the effect of combining the signals without redesigning and reprinting the board? Thanks

author: duak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2020, 12:37:17 am
content: If I get the gist correctly, you need:CS/ HI/ LO/ CS.H/ CS.LO/1 X X 1 10 0 1 0 10 1 0 1 00 0 0 0 0(from logic) (to chips)0 is low, 1 is high, X is don't careIf so, you should be able to use a PMOSFET as a transmission gate between CS/ and the CS/ input on each chip. The drains of the FETS are connected to CS/, the sources go to the chip and the gates come from the HI/ and LO/ byte select. Pull up resistors are needed on the sources to ensure a high CS/ input when the FET is not conducting.You'll want a small FET that doesn't have too much gate capacitance. Is Vcc 5 V? If so, just about any PMOSFET will work. If Vcc is 3.3 V or lower, a FET with a lower gate threshold is needed. The pullups are in the range of 4K7 to 10 K.You may find it easier to piggyback another OR gate on top of a similar sized chip and wire the appropriate pins.PS., I layed out an interface board completely upside down once. D'oh! It had a couple of DIP chips on it so I had to fold their leads over to get them to connect and allow me to at least test out the circuit while the layout was respun.

author: transistor_fet
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 15, 2020, 03:09:54 am
content: Yes, that's the truth table I need, and 5V. This sounds really promising, thanks! I just need to order some p channel mosfets since I only have BS170s on hand =P

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2020, 05:49:48 am
content: Since you've got to order parts anyway, it would be neater and give better signal integrity with a far lower parts count to 'dead bug' a dual OR gate (e.g. 74LVC2G32) in a leadless package at a point where the /CS trace can be split. If the layout isn't amenable to that because of other devices on the same /CS trace further down it, you could use individual OR gates (e.g. 74LVC1G32) next to each memory chip
Fixing a non-working USB port on a no-brand KVM extender - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: BlueBanana
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 03, 2022, 04:39:41 am
content: This is the board inside the several-month-old KVM extender (or, more specifically, the receiver unit) I've got from AliExpress:(click to enlarge)This is the part of the board in question:(click to enlarge)The problem started a couple weeks ago when one of the USB ports (CN19) stopped working properly. This was what I saw on the oscilloscope when I plugged in a USB mouse (yellow = D-; blue = D+):(click for the whole 10-second shaky-cam action)The same mouse connected to CN20 (the good port) appeared as follows on the oscilloscope:(click for the whole 10-second shaky-cam action)My first instinct was that the TVS array (the 0522P) for CN19 was busted somehow, but saving pulling the chip out with a rework station, I had little way to test my theory. Besides, since I was an amateur still figuring out my way with my 1000W beast of a rework station, I'd much rather not put my skills to the test that hastily. What's more, given that the 48-pin TQFP chip both USB ports run off of had already got all its markings filed off out-of-the-factory, there would be not much of a point for me to muck with the board if the 48-pin chip rather than the TVS array turned out to be the culprit.So, here's my question to you guys: should I try and pull out the TVS chip and see what happens and maybe track down the details of the mystery chip somehow, or should I just forget the whole thing and shell out for a replacement unit?Cheers in advance!Edit:Inline pictures; titleEdit 2:After all the views and no replies, I decided to pull out the TVS chip to see what would happen. As it turned out, the mystery 48-pin chip was the culprit, and given it would take far more than it's worth to figure out what it was (and that's to put aside whether a chip replacement was feasible at all), I supposed it would be easier to just buy a replacement unit rather than try and fix the busted port.
Help! Fixing an ASUS ADP-90YD BA, DAP013CA based power adapter. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Watth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2017, 05:16:53 pm
content: Hello EEVpeople,My DAP013CA based ASUS laptop power adapter stopped working.After opening it, I got rid of as much silicon filling as possible, and could not see any obvious damages, except for the largest capacitor, which is slightly bulged.So I thought I might start by replacing this one.My humble DMMs don't have capacitance measuring features. Would a crude Arduino-based set-up be enough to test it?If this capacitor (Nichicon PZ series 100µF - 450V - 105°C) has indeed failed, I'll see what replacement options I have in another episode.To be continued...

author: Watth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2017, 06:36:55 pm
content: Update.A precision:Before it stopped working completely, the symptoms where overheating, and it only worked if plugged to the PC before plugging it to the mains.I replaced the cap with a new one with the same ratings (Rubycon 450TXW100MEFC18X35http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/7260754/?sra=pstkhttp://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0f2a/0900766b80f2a1cd.pdf).I have since acquirred a DMM that measures capacity. The old cap I removed (rated 100uF, and that was very slightly bulged) reads 95uF. So I can't confirm that it was the cause of the failure.When plugged to the mains and without load, I measure about 19.5V, but is slowly declines. Is it because of the absence of load? If I unplug the mains, the measured voltage keeps dropping, until i show 19.5V again.I don't dare try it directly on the PC...I finished removing as much of the silicony paste as possible, and could not see any obvious hint of what failed.The PCB is one sided and inhabited by TH and SM components.I attached a picture of the board, and an annotated one indicating what's on the other side. I can, of course, provide more info about the components.What can I do ?

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2017, 07:00:50 pm
content: Unloaded 19.5V seems normal.Probably the heat is due to poor solder joints. See picture, cant tell if its reflection or poor solder joints.Check continuity of the cables at both ends etc...

author: Watth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2017, 08:33:31 pm
content: Nope, the solders are fine.

author: coceicr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 10, 2019, 11:33:01 am
content: Very strange schematic...Here must replace C2 and C3 - 470nF/450VWhen are bad (low capacity) the main voltage are increasing above 500V...... and the IC goes into protection.https://4ham.ru/remont-bloka-pitaniya-asus-adp-90yd/
Fixing an EX330 Dial Prong Failure - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: KitsuneMulder
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 02, 2020, 04:32:21 am
content: I bought this as is and did a temporary fix but not sure if someone has any idea a better permanent fix. Basically on two sides of the prong it dug through the plastic. I used a small piece of tape but something that fills it correctly would be preferable.Thanks all!
Fixing an HP-45 calculator with flex PCBs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: EggertEnjoyer123
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2025, 06:13:23 am
content: I bought a HP-45 calculator at the ewaste for 2 dollars. After opening it up, it looked like the NiCd battery leaked, and destroyed all of the custom HP buttons.Luckily, the PCB itself was gold plated and didn't have much damage (because of the plating). I had to reflow pretty much all the joints on the board though, because the base in the NiCd battery seems to have oxidized the solder a lot.I ripped off all of the buttons which were spot welded, and I created a design on a flex PCB with the same dimensions. Then, I soldered the flex PCB to the board. Even though I didn't really spend a lot of effort making sure all the buttons were aligned, it seems like my fix worked. After putting everything back together, I was able to confirm that all the buttons worked.I'm not sure where else buttons of this type are used, but someone might find this trick helpful in the future.

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2025, 09:10:31 am
content: Interesting solution.I wonder how many 'button presses' such a flexible PCB can support.

author: BILLPOD
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2025, 07:30:46 pm
content: Good Morning EggertEnjoyer123, Congratulations on your successful fix. And this just help support my favorite saying: 'If it was made by man, it can be fixed by man. Good thinking.
Fixing an older Laptop (Power Input) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Jareth
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 30, 2021, 11:25:08 pm
content: Hello.I'm new to the Forum.I recently started working on refurbishing older hardware I have laying around.My first project was refurbishing some older Monitors. On most of them, the video Controller Board goes out, & replacing the Controller Board costs about $20. Other projects that I'm working on include Power Supplies & Computer Video Cards.I want to get good at this.So, I have this semi-older Laptop sitting upstairs. The Power Input actually was forced, & the wire guts inside of the slot are bent. I'm thinking it's sort of an unrepairable port, & I would rather just take the Laptop apart & install a new Power Input jack into the case.Well, I did a Google Search for:power input for dell inspiron 1545& while the AC Charger is listed according to the actual Power Supply & jack, the power input port listed consistently shows that weird input with 5 pins I guess.The images for the wrong input port & the right jack are attached.Note: How the port got jacked-up, so to speak? I guess that somebody else tried to jam the wrong jack in the right port. That input port looks really fragile. It's got little wire prongs that connect to the pin of the right jack that's designed for that port. Honestly, I would even be interested in changing the jack & port for that Laptop to something that's designed for safe & rugged use. I mean, it's a Laptop. I WOULD prefer to wire it up correctly at least.Has anybody else worked on this sort of thing?Could somebody throw a dog a bone?Thanks!!

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2021, 12:38:23 am
content: First, don't search "Dell inspiron xxx port", instead disassemble it and check yourself how it looks. There're lots of mistales in these listings.Anyways, Dell port are pretty good, also most laptops in general, they have solid anchoring points (not sure what english term to use).Dell's center pin is not por power, but for charger detection/feedback, the power goes through the inner and outer rings (like Lenovo's square connector and some HPs).I changed a lot of laptop charging connectors, 99% of the problems were caused by the the use of universal chargers which use plug adapters, or bulky repairs using a ton of isolation tape, making the final plug very long and causing of torque over the connector.Or just hard pulling, ex. someone walking hitting the cable.Any light pull and bang! Broken connector or board.Don't use universal chargers! Buy a compatible one which has a short, dedicated connector, without any adapters.

author: abdulbadii
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2021, 12:54:34 am
content: just google market availability for jack's paircaliper ID (Inside diam.) by top jaw & OD (outside d.) by main jaw, tell these specs when informing it to sellersimply sacrifice lower component cost, not sacrifice higher one

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2021, 01:00:35 am
content: its funny but i have the same job to do on an inspiron 1720.
Fixing Body Composition Measurement on Bathroom Weigh Scale? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 11:41:01 am
content: OK... so it's that time of the year...I have a WiThings Body Composition bathroom scale but it hasn't measured any body composition measurements since 2017 and I thought I might have a go at fixing it..The scale has four quadrantsNow it is very likely that I completely disregarded any instructions regarding cleaning so it is possible I have removed the conductive surface on the glass... How conductive is that surface meant to be? Can I measure it to see if I have destroyed it or if the problem is elsewhere?Any body ever repaired such a device?
Fixing laptop screen vertical line by amending its EDP - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: marhuum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2024, 12:35:40 am
content: Has one here really gone through fixing laptop screen vertical line(s) by repairing/replacing its Embedded DisplayPort (EDP) cable, so recounts and shares the complete steps of the process ?As most, if not all, believe the laptop screen vertical line(s) caused by defective Embedded DisplayPort (EDP) cable which slipped and passed through either laptop screen hinge but post here is asking help to elaborate definitively the useful, real knowledge of repairing in the most complete, correct way, esp. can decide/determine whether the cable can still be fixed or must be replacedSo sincerely help out

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2024, 07:38:12 pm
content: Cable is a cable, but maybe the factory way is the only real way.Fixing very small and very high frequency ones is a bit hopeless.With luck you can create something that is mostly without interference.I'd guess those wide micro coax cables are standard ones.Can't figure out why a manufacturer of laptops would use a propriety one, it doesn't really change anything but costs.Assuming here that only few machines are repaired outside a warranty.And if something "old" is repaired it's probably mostly combined from many machines.Flat plastics with glued conduits on top of them are other nasty.Maybe there are no really proper way fixing them either.There is a glue with silver dust in it, Bud only for bigger things, I guess.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 12, 2024, 07:43:16 pm
content: If display shows vertical line while showing an image, display is faulty and no cable will save it.
Fixing squint traces on a TelequipmenT D61a Oscilloscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Garry G
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 28, 2021, 02:55:02 pm
content: Hello, I've just took delivery of an old TelequipmenT D61a Oscilloscope and the traces are running at an angle. I looked through the instructions but can't see anything that relates to this. I saw a picture of the machine turned on before delivery and the trace lines were straight.Could this have been caused by the deflection coil being moved during shipping. Or is there likely a simpler answer?If it is the coil is this easily fixed? Sorry if these are silly questions, but I'm not used to old CRT Oscilloscopes.Although I would use this as an oscilloscope in general if I can get the display fixed, I really wanted this for testing a Vector drawing program I'm writing on an Arduino, and making sure my simple circuit and XY cable is working properly.So worst case my picture is going to be squint!Any help would be much appreciated.Thank you.

author: cvanc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2021, 03:19:27 pm
content: Welcome to the forum.Yes what you describe might be caused by something shifting in transport but there is another possibility. I have a couple of older scopes that I dearly love but have poor magnetic sheilding around the CRT. The real-world effect of this is I have to readjust for a level trace at every location I use them in. This adjustment is called trace rotation.An easy way to tell if this is your problem is to physically move the scope around to see if trace rotation changes, or try it in some new location, etc. If it does change when you do this, it's a sheilding problem and probably normal for this particular model of scope.

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2021, 06:05:59 pm
content: I don't think there are deflection coils; it's electrostatic. Perhaps somehow the crt got rotated in shipping and needs to be turned back.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2021, 06:10:04 pm
content: Yes it is definitely electrostatic, there is no deflection coil. It's possible that it has a trace rotation coil however it looks like it uses a round CRT and in many scopes like that you adjust the trace rotation by loosening a clamp and rotating the whole CRT.

author: Garry G
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 28, 2021, 07:05:00 pm
content: Thanks for all the help. I tried it in a few different rooms and it still looks the same, so seems like the tube may have shifted.That sounds like a fairly straightforward fix though.

author: perdrix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2021, 05:30:51 pm
content: I think there's a small hole in the front panel going to a trim-pot for trace rotation. There is on a D75.David
Fixing the 7-segment LED of Sony sound system - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: prabhatkarpe4
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2024, 03:20:25 pm
content: I have one Sony 5.1 sound system but its 7-segment LED display is not working properly because the numbers (volume level) are not showing up completely and all the segments don't light up. Sometimes, the whole display shows nothing at all.I need to know whether the LED driver IC (PTC 6955) is gone?I would also like to know what the bus lines (CL, CE, DO, DI, SBY... ACF) are on the board for?What is the connector with the labels RES, P4, VSS, PA0, and VDD for?There is another chip HT48F50E, and could that be damaged?The model number of the sound system is SA-WID7.I have attached the snapshots of the chip and PCB.
Fixing the office water cooler/heater - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: iXod
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2022, 03:18:28 am
content: The Home Office, that is…5 gallon (20L?) water bottle on top, taps below for chilled and heated water. Digital display / controller on top just forward of the water bottle.This Whirlpool unit (model WHKM-D30) neither heats nor chills. The display allows selection of 3 temperature settings for each heating and chilling (low, med, high). The controls seem to operate visually but no evidence of the chiller compressor starting nor of heat being generated.My question is: do these things have a “water present” sensor? I presume if the unit was completely dry, there is some safety circuit that would disallow both heating and chilling to initiate?Looking for a common failure point and this seems a likely item. But maybe there is a different method of disallowing heating and chilling?Or is the controller just borked?User manual:https://www.whirlpool.com/content/dam/global/documents/199906/use-and-care-guide-8579541.pdfThanks.

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2022, 12:57:45 pm
content: Why don't you take off a panel or two and see if there is a helpful schematic there inside?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2022, 01:11:11 pm
content: Normally a water level switch, typically a float switch. Undo the top cover and you will find it there in the upper tank, and normally they fail because the little float comes off the rod containing the reed switch.

author: BILLPOD
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2022, 06:50:08 pm
content: Good Morning iXod, If it was mine, I would be tearing it apart to see what makes it tic, so to speak. A lot of questions can be answered by examining the 'innards'. But that's just me.

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2022, 10:28:51 am
content: Quote from: SeanB on January 28, 2022, 01:11:11 pmAs running out of water occurs often I would think that there would be a front panel indicator for that?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2022, 11:58:24 am
content: Giant bottle on top made from transparent plastic. Think that can act as indicator well enough.
Fixing the RF front end of a spectrum analyzer - Siglent SSA 3021X - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Mach1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 05, 2021, 03:45:58 pm
content: Hi EEVblog members,A spectrum analyzer RF front end can be easily damaged caused by long standing, low-frequency harmonics contents. The wide use of motor drive and DC-DC converters makes it even easier to damage a spectrum analyzer if you are not being careful. I recently damaged and later fixed the front end of my Siglent SSA 3021X and recorded the process. For those who have suffered from similar problems and got frustrated by the cost and lead time of having the unit repaired, check out how to fix the RF front end of a spectrum analyzer.For those who enjoy reading, checkhttp://emccompliance.co.uk/fixing-and-protecting-the-rf-input-of-a-spectrum-analyzerFor those who enjoy watching, checkHappy fixingMach1design

author: inaxeon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2021, 02:00:11 pm
content: I just managed to do the same thing to my SSA 3075X Plus, which err, costs quite a lot more.Using an RF current transformer on a low powered DC setup. Literally the inrush current of charging a 470uF capacitor with the positive wire passing through the transformer was enough to blow the analyser input. I am absolutely astonished! I would not have expected it!I will be buying that Tekbox transient supressor too. In the mean time I have reached out to Siglent. I hope they'll be as kind to me as they were to you.

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2021, 03:40:21 pm
content: What are the part numbers of the components that you replaced?

author: inaxeon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2021, 04:41:58 pm
content: I meant that I've blown mine. Not fixed yet. Mach1 states that he replaced:MASWSS0181TR-3000 (RF Switch)BAR63-02V (Diode)BZX84J-C30 (Diode)MASWSS0181TR-3000 won't be what's in the SSA 3075X because that part is only 3GHz. Need at least 7.5GHz.I don't know what's in mine. There doesn't seem to be any pictures or videos of the 3075X's RF deck yet either, and I'm not yet ready to break the warranty seal on mine until I hear form Siglent...

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2022, 10:28:10 pm
content: this is the latest version SSA3021X see no diodes !!darn it my RF input is af deaf as it can be..

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2022, 12:55:13 am
content: is it just the lighting or is C7 chipped and cracked?
Fixing up an old Fluke 75 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: helio0centra@gmail.com
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2022, 05:21:24 pm
content: I spotted a Fluke 75 on eBay that was listed as broken and missing all the accessories. But it was only $40 Canadian, so I bought it. Other than that I do have a cheap chinesium $30 meter off Amazon: The Lomvum T28C.When it arrived I opened it and saw that a 9V battery had leaked inside so the first thing I did was clean up the dried acid. Since I had it open I checked the fuses with my cheap meter and the mA fuse was blown. So I put in a new battery and found a suitable replacement fuse at Home Depot.I had some spare test leads around, probably not up to Fluke standards, but they do work.Now the meter works but I wanted a rubber holster without paying full price so I found a design to 3D print and made it of TPU flexible filament.I noticed while I had it open that the plastic posts for the self tapping screws are fairly stripped and so my next project is to install threaded brass inserts and different screws to match them.One thing I noticed is a small burn mark on the label of the 10A fuse probably from the resistor next to it. Is that something to worry about? Or any other common issues to check for?

author: Kim Christensen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2022, 07:11:52 pm
content: QuoteI wouldn't worry about it as long as the resistor in question isn't burnt. I would check that both the 300mA and 10A ranges are within ballpark compared to your cheap meter. If they are reasonably close, the Fluke is probably giving the most accurate reading. Same for the other ranges.If you have a friend with a better quality meter you could check it against that.

author: lowimpedance
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2022, 02:18:48 am
content: Additionally, if you do have access to a better meter and a stable (short term at least) power supply that can be set to 3.000V DC you can check the 75's CAL.And as it has only one CAL adjustment which is done at 3.000V then you could transfer the measurement of the 'better' meter to the 75 if needed.
Fluke 335A DC voltage standard repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: alan ford
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 14, 2019, 05:27:25 pm
content: Hello everyoneI'm trying to repair this calibrator so I was wandering if anyone encountered similar problem: the output on all ranges all settings is -1.234 V - it doesn't change at all.This is when operating; in standby mode will be zero.Work done so far : a bunch of electrolytic caps were changed - some of them by someone else, before I opened it , some of them by me - I changed everything that was below 80% and some more so about 90 % of electrolytic caps are changed. The supply voltages are OK ; the reference voltage is OK.Chopper board and preregulator board are matching 335D schematics so it seems they were changed already using boards from D . I had to change CR1 diode on chopper board ( it was not the diode anymore - it was resistance in both directions ) Some other board look they were already changed by someone else - the differential amp is different vintage; same as null detector amplifier.Any thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated, Thank you

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2019, 05:55:12 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-335a-dc-voltage-standard/May help a littleok found the 335D service manual, no schematics, anyone ?The section 2 and 3 can helpFluke 332D service manual :https://doc.xdevs.com/docs/Fluke/332D/332d____imeng0100.pdfEDITMaybe this thread toohttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-332d-dc-voltage-standard-repair/

author: alan ford
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 15, 2019, 07:09:25 pm
content: Well thanksIt seems my problem is related to the chopper board - I do have signal coming in to it, but nothing getting out - the service manual shows test point at the output of op amp being in range of 0.4 Vpp and I have about 40 mVpp so next step will be to check components around op amp on the chopper board

author: dacman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2019, 09:31:25 pm
content: Is the high voltage relay in the back being energized? (It's the one with the exposed contacts.)

author: alan ford
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 17, 2019, 10:45:22 pm
content: At the moment I put this repair on back burner since there are some other things to do ( also I ordered IC from chopper board - MC 1709 - waiting for it to arrive ) so I can't try it but I recall a click from relay when switching from standby to operate so I'd say it's working

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2019, 11:27:19 pm
content: On my 343 thru the previous links, i may have found the bugs, i think i have a stuck relay, i recall if i force one of them i can go higher than 100 volts, but some resistors heat pretty fast.And maybe the other on the output (the bleeder circuit) may give some problems too, i have a surge on the 1kv selection, it goes into current limit. Tested all the output parts and impedances, everything match the specs ??
Flamezum 2000/4000 watt PSW inverter question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Dubyagee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 01, 2024, 08:53:02 pm
content: HelloI have one of these inverters and the output is wonky. The display on the unit shows a higher wattage being consumed than the killawatt does. It acts like a 750 watt inverter. The sine wave shows a solid wave on an oscilloscope and the voltage stays at 120 volts under a 500 watt load. Is there an adjustment for the display to show true output and have the safeties respond to the correct load?Thanks in advance.
flash circuit of minolta weathermatic 35 DL camera - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: CountParadox
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2024, 12:00:42 am
content: Hello fellow people;I took my minolta weathermatic film camera underwater recently, evidently the water seals are faulty and salt water was able to seep inside.Once realising this, I removed the batteries from the camera, but by this point the four AAA batteries had emptied their pixies into a component within the camera.The unit is extremely repairable, it was very easy to open and remove the entire camera assembly, and I have identified a single component as the likely suspect.I am unsure what this component is though as it does not match any known package of transistor I have seen before, it has three legs and is stamped 'em' on one side. the other side is blown out with no chance of identifying what it used to say if anything.I believe the camera gets feedback somehow on the state of the flash, as the camera itself will not operate with this flash pcb removed from the main camera assembly.I have been able to remove the failed component from the board, and have access to the three traces that once connected to it, so if I can identify what this component WAS then I can hopefully install a replacement part of a close enough value.I have some high res photos available here:And a scan of the pcb / traces here:http://zip.rei.moe/u/miPRmH.pdfhere is a photo of the front and back overlayed to see the traces on the other side:I would appreciate any assistancethank youLewys

author: indeterminate
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2024, 07:07:13 am
content: At a guess its an NPN power transistor used in the boost converter.sumthing like a 2SD965

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2024, 11:08:49 pm
content: You might get some clues here:https://www.repairfaq.org/sam/strbfil.htmhttps://www.repairfaq.org/sam/mmaxsch.gifhttps://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/XenonFlasher/images/Circuit%203%20original.gif

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 12:36:33 pm
content: Quote from: CountParadox on April 05, 2024, 12:00:42 amLots of pixels, yes, but almost no detail and tons of whitespace. Could you use proper magnification and tons of light (otherwise you get extreme noise reduction like your photos) to get some better pics of the component? And then crop off excess background.
Half-lit Asus PB287Q Monitor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: okokay
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 08, 2024, 08:28:53 am
content: Hi,I have a Asus PB287Q monitor and when you turn it on it flashes brightly for a split-second, then only lights up the bottom quarter of the LED strip. When filming in high-speed mode on my phone it seems like all the LEDs do light up for a split second, except for two (see screen grabs attached). One of which pings on as a very last step. Slow-mo vid:https://imgur.com/a/EFas3diGiven my near zero understanding of electronics any advice on what would be the most worthwhile out of the following would be appreciated:- Try to replace the OZ9998MGN LED controller (it was €1 to buy and should be here in a day or two). I don't have a good justification why I think that might be the issue, I just saw it would be cheap to replace.- Grab a replacement power board off eBay when one comes up- Keep poking bits with my multimeter pretending I know what I'm doing- Something elseCheers!

author: okokay
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 10, 2024, 06:33:04 am
content: In case anyone else has a similar issue, replacing the OZ9998MGN LED controller worked for me 👍