Replacement Knobs, Feet and Fittings for Test Equipment - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 06:30:44 am
content: Why -Because old bits break or are lost or stolen before we get hold of the Test Equipment.Solution -Try and buy the unobtanium from generally an overpriced evilbay auction or in the remote and forlorn hope a manufacturer will still have stock for your 40 year old precious. Or you make or have made for yourself a replacement by a range of different methods.So rather than having solutions to this problem lost diluted and otherwise dispersed here in sometimes long winded threads (Yes TEA I am looking at you) and across the WEB time for a common index page with links to posts, videos or elsewhere.Any Knob, Foot, Clip, adapter and fairly much anything mechanical you have made or designed as a solution to keep your Test Equipment in use.STL or CAD files can be put in a Zip and added to posts would be great. Anyone found using that work for commercial gain without express permission can expect to be

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 06:32:38 am
content: Index by Manufacturer - others to follow as needed.FlukeFoot 5200A Calibrator FootThe DefPom ThingiverseFoot Side Clip and rubber, suits 5440B/510x/850x and others?Beanflying Link to this threadFoot Rear suits 8505A or 8506A part #645945Pigrew ThingiverseVarious from a Yeggi Site searchhttps://www.yeggi.com/q/fluke/Hewlett PackardAdapter IR adapter Handheld Agilent/Keysight metershttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2596378Bezel Analogue Meter Power Supplies suits ?https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:225449Bezel Rear to suit 34401A and maybe other similar caseshttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186112Bezel CRT and Switch to suit 8753C VNAHendorog Thingyverselisted as a WIPButton Power and extension to suit E3631A and maybe others?https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1829229Button Power suits 3478A and maybe otherskirill_ka Forum link hereButton Power suits 8640B + othershttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2780202Cover System Power Supplies rear Outlethttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2476186Cover HP909 A C & E rear outlet terminationhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2813343Foot Clip in suits a wide range of GearThe DefPom Thingiverse&https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2332520Foot, Suits 5300A &B and other Aluminium Diecast CasesBeanflying link to this threadFoot, Suits 34702A, 5300A & B and other Aluminium CasesVK5RC's take on the foot aboveFoot, Rear 8565A spectrum analyzer should suit othershttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2492594Foot, Rear part number 5041-8821 / 5040-7221 older Spec Analyzers and othersTerrorOperative ThingiverseFoot, Front and Rear to suit 8590 Spectrum Analyser and maybe othersBicurico link to this threadFoot, Generic 40mm long cord wrap replacement for older HP 17XX scopes and other equipment.Beanflying link to this threadFoot, Generic 35mm long cord wrap replacement for older HP 17XX scopes and other equipment. (correct length)Beanflying link to this threadFoot, Snap in to suit 3458B and othersCatilinaWOW link to this threadFrame Clip and PCB mount, suits 5300A and 5300B based measuring systemsBeanflying link to this threadKnob 1/4" Plain shaft with CAD files via link. Details hereBeanflying link to this threadKnob 1/4" Plain shaft with Cad Files via link. Tweaked version of one line up!Beanflying link to this threadKnob 1/4" Push on simple HP'ish style by JohnPihttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3546393Panel LAN outlet for DSO2000/3000 Scopeshttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2594001Panel Support Input Assembly 3403Chttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1886419PCB Card Lever Suits older Card based equipment (4261A + others)The DefPom - ThiniverseVarious from a Yeggi Site search (sorry lots of NON Test gear too)https://www.yeggi.com/q/hewlett+packard/Wheel/Knob Logic Analyzers DaJMastahttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:347147982143A Thermal printer partsVK5RC link to this threadKeithleyFoot suits 2xxx series gearPigrew ThingiverseLeCroyFoot, Extra Rubber Foot Bumper for Wavepro/Master and multiple other models DaJmastahttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3437386Foot, Rear Wavepro/Master with rubber insert DaJMastahttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3437363Various from a Yeggi Site searchhttps://www.yeggi.com/q/lecroy/Racal-DanaButton Numerical Keyboard set suits some CountersPigrew ThingiverseRhode & ShwarzFoot, Extra Rubber Foot Bumper for multiple models DaJMastahttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3453904Knob, Encoder suits CMU2000 & CRTUBucurico link to this threadStanford Research SystemsButton, Power for SR560 Pre Amp DaJMasta may suit othershttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3463854Bezel, Front for SR560 Pre Amp DaJMastahttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3463843TektronixClip, Plugin pull tab suits TM503 and others?CatilinaWOW and again a few posts laterFoot, Rear Cable Wrap Suits 500 Mainframes and 400 series ScopesRerouter link to this threadKnob, Vertical Gain extension to suit SC504CatilinaWOW link to this threadLink to filesVarious from a Yeggi site searchhttps://www.yeggi.com/q/tektronix/?s=ttValhallaFoot Rear suits 2703 AC CalibratorThe DefPom ThingiverseHandle Front suits 2703 AC CalibratorThe DefPom ThingiverseNon Brand Specific designs121GW Bumper Hangers - Magnetic and WebbingBeanflying link to this thread121GW Tilting Bail extensionChlor link to ThingiverseAnti Vibration Fan Gaskets - various sizes (TPU or similar flexible filament)DaJMasta ThingiverseXantrex power supply Button - Power may suit others toosalvagedcircuitry link to this thread

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 06:33:12 am
content: Construction Techniques and How to GuidesYouTube VideosCloning Vintage KnobsCode:https://youtu.be/aNBHtlhlHF4Quick/Easy KnobsCode:https://youtu.be/qBBqvF8koJIHow To Mold & Cast Vintage Radio KnobsCode:https://youtu.be/sHH6WHNoLoIOther Web PagesRepair a HP Knob by TerraHertzhttp://everist.org/NobLog/20131122_an_actual_knob.htmRecommended Secondhand Dealers of Unobtaniumhttps://www.sphere.bc.ca/index.htmlall sorts of Test Gear Spareshttps://www.surplussales.com/lots of bits and spares

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 06:47:44 am
content: Rear Foot to Suit Hewlett Packard 5300 A & B and other Split Aluminium Cased HP equipment.Fairly simple to start this thread off. 3D printed solution to what seems to be a fairly common failure of the original plastic foot. Printed in PLA as pictured with supports on the bed. Use 0.1mm Layer height if you want a smoother look but no one else should be looking under there to seeZip file contains both the STL and Fusion 360 CAD file.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 06:55:34 am
content: Rear cable wrap feet and wire securing clip for Tektronics 500 series mainframes and 400 series scopes.Edit: I have to ask for your HP feet why you didn't flatten off the middle area instead of doing 1:1,

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 07:10:46 am
content: Same Aluminium case design but more specifically for the Hewlett Packard 5300A and 5300B with the quick release mechanism.These models use a two piece clip to hold the circuit boards and front and rear split fascias in place as shown. Between the two I have at present they had a broken one of each. Today's project D&C a new one using Fusion and 3D printing again but made as a one piece item.Mk1 and MK3 shown less parts and better clearance for the circuit board. Printed with the Web facing down and bed supports only. PLA 0.1mm height recommended.Zip contains the STL and Fusion Cad file.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 07:17:25 am
content: Quote from: Rerouter on March 09, 2019, 06:55:34 amIt felt good at the timeI guess I was keeping it more original, printing it side on would have got a better finish but lower strength. Rob AKA VK5RC has done a foot for the same series with a flat base he might like to add?Next project is some sort of knob outer for this brass insert on the same chassis or I may just make a new one from scratch - tomorrow's job.

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 07:23:27 am
content: Thingiverse already has a few, and I've put a few of my own creations up there:https://www.thingiverse.com/DaJMasta/designsSome lecroy scope feet/bumpers based off another member's workA knob for a 169XX/168XX series logic analyzer encoderA front bezel and power button for an SRS SR560 preamp (may fit other bits of theirs, like the high voltage power supply and function gen, they look similar)Rohde & Schwarz foot bumpers for some instruments from earlyish 2000s up until a couple of kinds today (fits UPV/AMU and likely many others)

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 07:26:28 am
content: Quote from: DaJMasta on March 09, 2019, 07:23:27 amThanks. I do plan to link as many appropriate items I can find on on Thingyverse. I do have a few from the defpom and others bookmarked.Anyone want to save me some time feel free to add a link here

author: Inverted18650
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 07:28:27 am
content: Right on. I will work out this project this weekend. I will upload pics and measurements as well as all STL/CAD files so they can be fixed if I make a mistake. Stoked and this thread is long over due...Note: I have a small foundry here as well and have used my 3D prints as casts to pour molten aluminum over with great success. In a sand cast the heat from the molten melt dissolved the plastic instantly for a solid metal product. I keep to small parts with my setup but I could see this thread blowing up between 3D and foundry’s.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 09:23:46 am
content: Added a few of the already provided links above to the first posts. Let me know if you think it needs to be done differently before the list gets to long?

author: GregDunn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 09:37:51 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 09, 2019, 07:17:25 amAre those the same size as the HP 6236B knobs? I see a fair number of HP devices with broken or partially missing knobs that could use them.

author: Inverted18650
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 09:38:35 am
content: Do you want us to PM you with details so you can arrange it or post them here? I don’t want to mees up when I am really trying to help...done that before...lol

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 09:49:28 am
content: Quote from: GregDunn on March 09, 2019, 09:37:51 amUnsure about compatibility. I was going to make a size for size clone as close as I can to the genuine item and it won't take much to do a version with and without the Brass insert. Most likely the whole plastic one I will base on using 2mm knurl nuts (inserted from the bore) and grub screws. The other will be a matter of heating the current brass insert then squeeze it into the knob.I will do a photo montage of how to insert knurl nuts into 3D prints or chase up a Video that already shows them in use.Quote from: Inverted18650 on March 09, 2019, 09:38:35 amJust post any and all here and I will then link the individual post, thread or link as above. Add your own photos, files and any comments you think needed to make it I guess.

author: GregDunn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 06:17:25 pm
content: I grabbed my calipers and found that the diameter at the flared part of the knob, where it's widest, is about 1.6cm and coincidentally the length of the knob is also pretty close to 1.6cm. So if that's about the same as yours, it's pretty certain to be the same knob.

author: duak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 08:53:19 pm
content: I'd like to find a speed knob, ie. one with a small rotating handle, to replace the 13 mm diameter knob on the multurn controls on some hp equipment. eg., I have an hp 6002A power supply that uses 10 turn pots for the voltage and current settings. I don't use the supply as much because it takes so much longer to get the desired setting making it inconvenient for quick tests. hp did make a compatible speed knob for one instrument but they are as scarce as hens teeth. I've been thinking of making one where a small hp knob is the rotating bit on the end of eccentric that attaches to the control's shaft. I've also thought about replacing the controls with encoders and some electronics to implement a ballistic or variable speed adjustment. ie., the faster the control is turned, the greater the change in the setting.I'd also like to find a switch guard that protects switches or other controls from being damaged. I saw some spiffy looking ones on the Space Shuttle console. Some enthusiasts are making copies but they're too pricey for me. The ones made of folded sheet metal look out of place on hp equipment.

author: HalFET
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 09:55:00 pm
content: Quote from: duak on March 09, 2019, 08:53:19 pmI wonder if you could get better result with with using acetone polished 3D prints and then give them a coat of matte metallic spray paint and lacquer to protect the metal finish. Alternatively, a block of metal, a drill and a few files could work. Getting that HP surface finish on it might be a bit tricky though.

author: Neomys Sapiens
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 10:35:53 pm
content: Information on various sub-types of Tektronix TM500 latch tabs is here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tm503-plug-in-broken-removal-levertabpull-help!

author: GregDunn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 10:41:00 pm
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 09, 2019, 07:17:25 amKnob shown in your 5302 picture is in fact the p/n 0370-1099 which is the same part as on the 6236B. If I may suggest: providing a .stl file for the knob (or even just the cap which covers the end!) would make many new friends and maybe bring you a little $$$. They seem to be very much in demand and going for $20 and up - on everyone's favorite auction site.I'm watching a few 6236B units right now, and ALL of them are missing knob caps.

author: ferdieCX
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 10:56:41 pm
content: You will find here some CAD files to print Tektronix feet and knobshttps://www.yeggi.com/q/tektronix/?s=tt

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 11:28:24 pm
content: Quote from: GregDunn on March 09, 2019, 10:41:00 pmYep looks like itKnobs like this with fine detail look like a candidate for 0.2mm nozzles or better again SLA printing or even resin casting (like in the linked videos on post #3)Given the metal ring is likely gone if the cap is then I will try a snap in replacement based on that as well as a version with the metal ring. This part will be fine with FDM @0.1 layer I reckon.The main body will be a similar option. One reusing the Brass insert from the original fused back in and another in straight plastic with knurl nuts for the grubscrews.Thanks to the others for Links I will add them up soon

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 11:41:59 pm
content: Quote from: ferdieCX on March 09, 2019, 10:56:41 pmThanks I had forgotten about Yeggi. Works well for some but no so much for Hewlett Packard unless you sort past the Notepad widgets

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2019, 06:50:52 am
content: Mk1 HP Knob to see if the knurl section will 3D print 'ok' before going further with the other detail and parts. Printed with with supports (internal) with a 0.4mm nozzle 0.1 layer with PLA on one of my Ender Pro's.Odd blobbing off the Ender on the sample I haven't ever seen before (might be nozzle or slicing issue)Looks like you can print the 40 flutes on these with FDM and a 0.4 nozzle but if you want to get a better cosmetic look 0.2mm or an alternate method would be better.Based on this roughy I will continue on with the plan a couple of posts back and leave it up to the individual how they make it from there.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2019, 06:56:25 am
content: you need more cooling if you want to pull it off correctly, Also the bubbling on some of the splines is because its decelerating at the corner of the splines, radius both the inside and outside to make it more like a correlated roof and they should reduce.

author: 0culus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2019, 07:26:58 am
content: Another part that would be useful (but I don't have any plans for) are those little plastic bumpers that screw onto the back corners of the rear panels of HP equipment.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2019, 07:30:54 am
content: That will teach me for not reviewing the GCode before printing.Result was exactly what it miscalculated.Oddball Sli3er Prusa issue with the small flutes I guess.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 12:04:59 am
content: Random idea for the HP knobs to make a better clone. Standard Hardware store Cup Washer (11mm OD 4mm bore) reworked to make a replacement metal trim for the knob. Would require a female form to round the edge over on but a correct thickness peice of steel (1.5mm) with a hole drilled in it then peen the lip over then finish as required with a Dremel/Files etc.In an ideal world you would make a proper tool for stamping/punching them out but this might suit for a one off home option.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 12:32:32 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 11, 2019, 12:04:59 amInvestigate plastic joinery buttons used for hiding screw heads for capping the knobs.Some have a spigot that inserts into Robinson (square drive) screws.

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 04:13:09 am
content: Great thread, bean. Here are all my bookmarks for a variety of parts on Thingiverse.HPAKDSOX-LAN drawer/tray:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2594001Rear panel corner bumpers (e.g., 8565A):https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2492594Handheld DMM IR bracket:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2596378Card edge lever (e.g., 4261A):https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2909930Foot (e.g., 5334A):https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2332520andhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29104808640B power button:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27802028753C CRT bezel:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16755650360-2191 output cover (e.g., 6651A):https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2476186E3631A power button/bar:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:182922934401A rear bezel:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186112909A termination rear cover:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28133433403C support plate:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1886419Analog meter bezel (e.g., 6286A):https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:225449Bonus (not a spare part):Wall mount for HPAK DMMs with IR interface:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1056579KeithleyKeithley 2xxx legs & feet:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2401474Fluke5200A calibrator foot:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2912401Fluke 645945: 8505A back leg:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2397571Valhalla2703 rear foot:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2912311Racal-DanaKeycaps (e.g., 1991, 1992):https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2466507

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 06:23:30 am
content: Thanks @Bitseeker will add yours later in the evening.Bizarre thing with the HP Knob reduced the export quality from Fusion into sli3er PE and the Spaghetti Monster from yesterday went away seems I overloaded it's brainStill not 100% done but this one is dimensionally close to the real deal if anyone wants to print it and take a look. This one will take the HP Brass insert with a little heat to slide it in and the grubscrews protruding into the alignment slots I have put in the design so the holes line up while you do that. Switch off thin wall detection and print at 0.1 should get a result.Edit of the Edit of the Edit - ZIP now removed. Updated Zips further down this thread or found in the Index under HP Knobs.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2019, 02:37:12 am
content: Eight other colours but no Grey and a non bright Green time to add more Filament to the stashI have sorted out the high quality STL spaghetti issue but the file goes over the 1Mb allowed here. When I have a set including a Cap I will put them on my Google Drive and link them with a separate post.

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2019, 03:13:34 am
content: Here's a potentially useful one for the generic fittings category: a set of anti-vibration gaskets for common computer fanshttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3486100Have one that fit 40mm, 60mm, 70mm, 80mm, 92mm, and 120mm fans (was really easy to adjust dimensions on the sketch to crank all of them out), and they've been printed and test fit and the dimensions seem good. Worth noting that this will only be useful for printers that can print flexible filaments, and the more flexible the filament, the better the anti-vibration performance, but a lot of printers can do TPU or similar, so they may help quiet down your fans without having to go buy a bunch of gaskets which tend to be a little overpriced imo.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2019, 03:45:14 am
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on March 12, 2019, 03:26:52 amI choose not to give my files to Thingiverse for a start and am unlikely to change my mind on that in the future. The files I choose to put up here are mine and available for any non commercial use including by stl hosting sites for their gain. Depending on the item and the complexity of the Print I tend to also post the Cad file so others can tweak it if required and also encourage others to have a go at CAD for their own.As we all have different Slicers and Printers in use the best option is to give any Print Specific settings you think relevant to a particular STL. The Knob for example varies from 'my normal' PLA settings by using 0.1mm Layer and turning off 'Detect Thin Wall' and 'Avoid Crossing Perimeter' with no supports. These two were the principal cause of the Spaghetti.I am sure these will have similar variations in other Slicers but I don't use anything else and have only really glanced Cura and Ideamaker but never used them seriously to know what settings are or are not available.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2019, 04:45:05 am
content: QuoteThingyverse has common attr + Non commercial license, but what stopping others from downloading your model, mod it and repost on in their domain? with different licensing scheme? like some of your links in op? Same Thing if you post your model here.. but i was not talking about your attached model, i was talking the process you are trying to achieve in few of your latest posts.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2019, 05:11:47 am
content: Thingiverse - Makerbot - Strtasys get the support they have earned over time. Not very much at allIt took a major public stink only a few years ago for Thingiverse to adopt their 'current' legal waffle 'subject to change'. As to their parents companiesover time that is best left for another forum or thread. Basically I don't have any trust in them based on their combined history.Here my files are offered by me and are here at my discretion and are offered under 'my rules' such as IP 'borrowing' for gain happens. There is some of my commercial and business print work that won't be as that is my D&C and IP to make money from. If others try openly to make $ from using them them at minimum they can expect a public flogging for IP theft and most likely me pursuing them to cease if they go down the evilbay path to resell. These low volume speciality designs and reimaginings for old test gear are unlikely to attract any serious commercial entity and more likely to be someone running a backyard printfarm using stolen designs because they have no clue or imagination to create their own. One examplehttps://3dprint.com/120727/ebay-licensing-3d-models/Process of what is put here to accomplish a good result as per the last post it is offered openly along with help on settings within the understanding that all Slicers and Printers are different. Feedback or suggestions on how a design could be improved should be welcome too as this is to benefit all in need of unobtanium.In the case of the last few posts in particular if anyone had an idea on how to treat the top cap and washer I was throwing it out there for other ideas that may be better than mine.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2019, 05:21:20 am
content: lol i just put wooden bitstheir like battle scared pirates

author: JPortici
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2019, 05:56:40 am
content: THANKS. I have been looking for a tektronix foot since forever

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2019, 06:10:18 am
content: Quote from: JPortici on March 12, 2019, 05:56:40 amCast a glance in the TEA thread (if you dare)https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/msg2262690/#msg2262690and the few follow up posts after the link regarding print orientation and materials. Basically stand it on the small part of the foot with supports for improved strength and allow the bolt to keep the layers together. Also Nylon, PETG or maybe ABS rather than PLA IMO in order of toughness.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2019, 06:54:32 am
content: HP Knob 1/4" plain shaft, washer and Cap to suit reuse of the Stock Brass bush is at the Google Drive Link STL's along with the Fusion 360 CAD file.https://drive.google.com/open?id=16TDa7CEWRLShBq6--NWDScFT7Y22YXopI still need to drop a 0.2mm Nozzle onto most likely my CR-10S/Glass Bed when I get the correct colour filaments in for a finished item. That said the samples in the photo came of my Ender Pro with a 0.4mm Nozzle and are physically great and cosmetically not horrid. The surface finish on the cap is due to a worn bed. Personally this entire job would suit SLA better than FDM.FDM Print Guide - 0.1 Layers, PLA, No supports, Turn off detect thin walls in sli3er (or look for a similar setting in your slicer) to stop the Spaghetti from a few posts back.The Washer is virtually unprintable with a 0.4mm Nozzle but the Cap print holds nicely without it into the printed Knob with or without it. A quick wipe with a paint marker could be done. as shown too.Brass insert use a fat tip on a soldering iron set to 200'ish C with firm pressure. Make sure the allen screws are protruding slightly into the guide slots so the final position is correct.For improved overall look most likely replace the lot on each bit of test gear as needed and sell the other unobtanium to fund more TEA

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2019, 12:20:37 pm
content: Here's one for you:HP 5040-7829 cord wrap foot, fits HP174* CRO's.Thingiverse was useless and Google too.I've had a couple of these fine old CRO's both with missing feet on the back and as there's BNC's, a fuse holder and the CRT cover plate protruding, none of which make a stable foot to stand/store the scope.Little project for someone with a sample to build a 3D model.Drilled broom handle offcuts look a bit shit.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2019, 04:29:11 pm
content: I've been working on the old style HP feet. Part number 5060-0767.Still have to work out how to make the spring-loaded retaining pin, probably using an M3 cap screw, spring and nut or something.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 12:21:41 am
content: Quote from: TERRA Operative on March 13, 2019, 04:29:11 pmYou can fairly easily buy Flat Head Rivets in all sorts of lengths and diameters if you want to keep it more like the original. Try a Google search for "3mm flat head aluminium rivets" The 3x5mm collar and spring should be easy to sort out.The few older Nixie Counters I have with those feet came with all attachedBut keep on with the designQuote from: tautech on March 13, 2019, 12:20:37 pmSend me one of the Scope's and I will send you some feet back in exchangeDrop a picture of the foot here so we can have a look at if it is printable for a start?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 12:42:11 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 14, 2019, 12:21:41 amThat's the thing, couldn't find an image with some searches but will look harder over the next few days.Similar to the Tek one posted earlier but different in that they fit nicely with the corner of the case and they're quite long ~60 mm IIRC. Screw hole down the guts as is normal. As I remember they were a hard black rubber that got real brittle with age and they fell into chunks.Someone here will have them and hopefully do a measure up so someone can do a 3D model.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 12:52:52 am
content: Looks like making something to do the job will be easy. Making a look alike without a sample impossible and not really that important I guess.https://youtu.be/Cmz8bzUsj7E?t=1038If you can measure the footprint or even the area available and where the screw sits relative to the edge and it's dimensions and a height needed to clear the transformer cover is all we would need to roll you a design based on the Tek one shown earlier.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 01:27:16 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 14, 2019, 12:52:52 amYep, them's the buggers.As these HP's use an IEC lead there's really no need to have slots for the mains cable but the feet do need to be long enough to give good clearance for the CRT cover to ground.Remember, these also used insulating feet for the days when it wasn't frowned upon to float your scope.1/ So length required is 40 mm.2/ Screw CL to case side edge max 10.5 mm. (so 21 mm min wide and square)(see 4 and 5)3/ Screw CL to case top/bottom edge max 15.5 mm.4/ Back panel to case edge/rim step 2.2 mm (in case you want to step up over it and make the foot slightly larger to the case side edge.)5/ Case rim width 3.2 mm.6/ Standard screw: remaining meat at bottom of screw recess 13.5 mm.7/ Screw allow 3.5 mm dia.8/ Screw head/washers allow for 8.5 mm dia.These should fit in any of the 4 positions.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 01:54:08 am
content: Literally 5 minutes work.Strongly suggest you run the bolt nearly full length to avoid layer shear. If the screw is to stay at 3.5mm then running a tube outside of that will help a lot so 3.5x5 or 6mm? Personally I would look and see if the chassis can be drilled and tapped to maybe 6mm?The Foot outer I have made 31mm Square so a 5mm lip, partly it will give better stability when sitting on the feet but also would allow cable wrapping. The lower square is 21mm BTWSimple print job when finished and I will send you a couple of sets over to play with.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 02:19:02 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 14, 2019, 01:54:08 amYeah they could be improved some however without cord slots they should be stronger.I've allowed for 5 mm screw thread engagement with the standard screw that while this 1740 I have here has zero feet all the screws are there.While I could put bigger screws in most that own these would just want a drop in replacement so it's a shame we haven't got the original length so ppls could just print one or two to suit their immediate needs.Thought you'd add a lip.Thanks again, that's very kind or you but these are a commonly missing/broken part and I was just trying to add to the great future resource you're building.Only got one unit here and not likely to be chasing another as this was a freebie I'be had for some years andstillhaven't got around to fixing.One set will be fine.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 02:53:44 am
content: Quote from: tautech on March 14, 2019, 02:19:02 amExtruding down to the lower level of 13.5mm is easy as is dropping back to the 3.5mm hole (3D print cross sections shown done below). The major difference with 3D printing over injection or rubber molding is the layer shear strength. As a design I will post a drop in replacement and a 6mm bore as shown above.Some of the shear issue can be helped with the use of PETG (in my case as I don't currently run nylon or ABS) and raising the perimeter shells and infill. Below is 6 perimeters and 40% infill. The area will remain the weak point without the bolt running full length. The infill could be pumped up which will help a bit but it becomes the law of diminishing returns as it is still a point load at the head of the screw.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 03:01:51 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 14, 2019, 02:53:44 amUnderstood and still reminding you the feet should provide full insulation so any metal fixings needs be recessed some.BTW, we might be best for someone that has a HP1740 to chime in with the correct length for the feet.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 03:07:14 am
content: HP Knob Onesie to suit 1/4" shafts.Modded the CAD file back to a single piece version to suit 1/4" Bore and approximately 14mm long round shafts. As shown I looked at running 2x3mm knurl nuts for the grubscrews but they are to long even at 3mm to be made work. The working version uses a 3D printed 3mm thread which turned out reasonably well formed at 0.1mm layer height. I don't have any grubscrews currently is the reason for normal ones shown. Also YES the bore is deliberately very tight on the shaft to minimise the work the grubscrews need to do.Printing details as per the 3 piece version a few posts ago. 0.1mm layer no detection of thin walls etc.What I would suggest to make it work better is sharpen a point on the 3mm grubscrew to bite into the shaft to allow a little less screw tension (don't strip the thread) and to then apply a drop of thin CA glue to the head of the grubscrew when in the correct position which should wick down the thread/knob interface and help it stay with less chance of it stripping.Cad and STL in a Zip file at the Google Drive Linkhttps://drive.google.com/open?id=1DrCOmr-j3UumHvSVMzbPccIYiV4O_ox6

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 03:09:05 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 14, 2019, 12:21:41 amOh cool, I'll check those rivets out.I have a few bits of gear that need these feet (There seems to be a test equipment foot fairy here in Japan that is stealing all the feet from the second hand equipment listed online....) and with how hard these seem to be to find online, I know I'll be printing a few for myself.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 03:14:15 am
content: Quote from: tautech on March 14, 2019, 03:01:51 amVersion one with the 6mm full length still allowed for 6mm recess and 12mm OD head. The hardware 6mm ugly below is 4mm x 12mm so it should be easy to get one for a long bolt option.Bumped the diameter of the recess to 12.5mm. 2mm clearance should be ok to 1000V+

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 03:34:55 am
content: Foot - Generic replacement for HP 5040-7829 cord wrap foot, fits HP174* CRO's.40mm Long generic foot as shown. Two STL's in the Zip a high strength 6mmx34mm depth and a drop in HP hardware replacement for 3.5x13.5mm screws on the scope. Also included is the Fusion 360 Cad file for others to play with.Suggested 3D printer settings 6 top, bottom and side perimeters and 40% infill. Material choice minimum PETG or better Nylon if you can. 0.2mm Layers and support on the build plate only to keep the recessed hole looking nice.

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 04:27:53 am
content: I printed the HP knob to check it out; this is how it works out for me. I printed it with the top down to avoid filling it with supports. This is with a 0.1 layer height, PLA with a 0.4mm nozzle. I didn't spend any time cleaning it up, just pulled off the skirt and removed a few wisps.It would work great as a knob, it's just the knurling looks a little haphazard and feels a bit rough. Maybe replace it with a smooth recessed grip area (basically remove the ridges) and slip a rubber or plastic sleeve over it. And, replace all knobs for uniformity.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 04:37:24 am
content: Did you look at the Gcode on your slicer before printing? Switching off the 'detect thin wall' sorted mine out a lot on the flutes and they came out much cleaner.Printed the other way up with no supports the alignment slots work fine due to the curved tops and the just the top of the main chamber finishes up a little fury until it bridges properly. This could be fixed by adding a 450chamfer to the roof but it will likely require a shorter shaft or stick out further from it.For a more generic knob cutting back the flutes to 12-15 would sort a lot of issues but then it wouldn't be a HP clone.Interesting to see other printers results

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 06:05:53 am
content: Quote from: tautech on March 14, 2019, 03:01:51 amSo my design guess was WRONG it seems the real deal only had a lip on the outsideFrom herehttp://hpmemoryproject.org/an/pdf/sf_1700.pdfLet me know if you want the design shortened to the 1 3/8" and I will tweak it, what isn't shown is if it is measured from the case or rear fascia so 40mm is safe. I think for strength keeping the more blocky 3D printed version is sensible pending anyone having better images or one to measure from?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 10:29:11 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 14, 2019, 06:05:53 amGood find and checked the 1 3/8" (~35 mm) which seems perfect with ~4 mm clearance from the CRT cover to ground.(excluding any fascia height measurement)IMO ~35 mm is the height we want to work with in this metric day and age.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 10:38:14 am
content: Looking at the bad photo I am actually wondering if they were made from the same soft plastic on the 5300's I made new feet for rather than a rubber. What was left of mine basically crumbled into pieces and the rear shot of Daves looks like that same sort of issue?Edit Adding the 35mm Foot here due to the 1Mb file size limitI will add it to the link index on the front page and leave both available.Modded Fusion file and both STL'in the Zip for 6mm Long Screw and the Genuine HP screw options.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 10:52:33 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 14, 2019, 10:38:14 amMy memory thinks hard rubber but they may have been some soft crumbly plastic IDK.Sorry I don't have a sample to do some chemical or heat tests on.Use your bestest judgement.

author: kirill_ka
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 11:19:02 am
content: Some time ago I made a power/input switch button cap for HP3478A. You may like to add it. There are STL and OpenSCAD models in there.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/list-your-test-equipment-score-here!/msg1255227/#msg1255227Edit: can't fix the url to make it clickable

author: Ice-Tea
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 11:43:36 am
content: Odd.. found a file for a Wavepro/wavemaster bezel some time ago but the page is gone. I still have the files if anyone wants them but I guess there's a reason why it was redrawn so I'd rather not upload the files here...Those who ever serviced one of those know why you'd want a replacement bezelI actually considered having one 3D printed and perhaps order a small batch injection molded if the file was OK. If there's ever enough interest for that I may still attempt it...

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2019, 12:07:56 pm
content: Quote from: kirill_ka on March 14, 2019, 11:19:02 amAdded it on the front page index here. SMF doesn't like the ! unless you put it inside the URL tags.Quote from: Ice-Tea on March 14, 2019, 11:43:36 amInteresting it still turns up on the Yeggi search and you can view the page via a google archive but the file has been stripped for 'reasons' so it must have only been recently removed

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 01:59:07 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 14, 2019, 04:37:24 amBy G-code, do you mean the actual .gcode or the layer breakdown?I'm in the middle of switching from Cura to Simplify3D, and am experimenting with thin wall settings to see what I can come up with. The HP knob is a pretty good, practical test case!

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 02:13:16 am
content: The issue you're seeing may be printer settings. If it's doing the perimeter of the knob on each layer with a continuous outer path, then it could be excessive acceleration/jerk settings or maybe turn up the extrusion multiplier. If the perimeter is printed inside and then the ridges are added in separate little segments, it's probably an extruder (likely retraction) issue. I suspect the latter, but if your extruder is having to pick up and put down filament in each ridge, sometimes the amount it retracts and replaces is not consistent all the time, so you're getting these artifacts. If that's the case, try slowing retraction speeds or looking around other forums for retraction tuning tips.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 02:15:09 am
content: In Sli3er for example after you slice the print you can look at a 3D preview of the print. I use this in most cases before starting longer prints. Go back to the last page and you will see the spaghetti version when reviewed with 'detect thin walls' on.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/msg2257833/#msg2257833Just for fun here is a 6 layer 40% infill in PLA of the 35mm Foot printed on the Ender Pro. My CR-10 with the glass Bed is where I will print the PETG ones for @Tautech is partially stripped down while I put it into an enclosure.Sheared as expected at the screw head but even in PLA took a fairly severe whack to get that to happen, I would hope most of us don't treat our gear like that. PETG will give it more layer strength and a little more flex which will help it soak up some more punishment. The oposite end of the hammer is actually a PETG insert I made over a month ago and is holding up well unlike the PLA sample one which failed quickly.https://youtu.be/H0vTK5Li-NQ

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 02:56:01 am
content: Holy hell Bean, that took a whack before it broke.Should be more than strong enough IMHO.

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 03:13:30 am
content: I did some similar strength tests on LeCroy scope feet I was printing, and tested a couple materials as well as a few different layer alignments (printed the model on its side, for example). I was primarily looking at PLA and ABS, but PETG can be sort of inferred from it.The PLA parts were harder, slightly heavier, and more resistant to small impacts (I tried both sides of the hammer), but when they failed they were likely to shatter if not chip in a large way. The ABS parts showed visible damage with lighter swings, but held together much better with big damage - never entirely shattering a part. PETG is a bit closer to ABS in consistency, but is somewhat between the two, and it's supposed to be pretty chemical resistant, so it would be a good choice for a lot of the external plastics on an instrument. The advantage ABS has is that it's a bit easier to work (paint, glue, etc), and that it's cheaper, often close to half the price of PETG.In any case, though, if you're at or above 25% infill and the model is made well, odds are good you're going to have a durable part in almost every plastic. It's not until you need really high impact resistance or supporting a lot of weight that high infill percentages or specialized materials are really necessary. Rather than strength, I think the primary issue with PLA is just that it will deform when near heat, so it's probably not a good choice for internal components in areas that get warm.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 03:36:37 am
content: I have got to like PETG and given the downsides of Printing ABS I am not that likely to adopt it in my on hand materials.Some interesting work by Stefan @ CNCKitchen on Annealing PLA and much more controlled strength tests of various materials here for those who haven't seen themhttps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTgIt still doesn't fix the moisture issue in wet applications compared to ABS or PETG but interesting work.Horizontal feet would cause a different set of problems with easier shearing of the fins and splitting lengthwise at the screw head with a blow like I gave my vertical one. Pros and cons of both. My preference would still be to go the long bolt vertical option to aid the layer adhesion but it seems to be up to the task unless you are a Rough as Guts NZ Sheep Farmer

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 04:38:38 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 15, 2019, 03:36:37 amMy only livestock are a cat and a wife !No sheep.

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 06:15:53 am
content: ABS is tougher to print, basically requires an enclosure to get good layer adhesion, especially on large parts. And yeah, layers stacked up so that the bolt head presses on a complete layer does seem the strongest for that sort of mounting. The trouble with annealing for this sort of thing is the non-uniform shrinkage. If you can fully characterize your individual filament, it may be usable by printing effectively size-warped parts, but since the X/Y shrinkage is a different ratio than the Z shrinkage and certain printed structures (internal included) shrink differently, it could be really difficult to get proper sizing for parts that connect to something on more than one side.

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 16, 2019, 12:08:15 am
content: I've been cranking out supports like these in various heights to use as equipment spacers. I can stand on them! Strong AF. Just plain PLA, 2mm walls and not much infill (20% I think I used) - the strength is in the walls anyway. 50x50x25 (X Y Z). I have some non-slip thin adhesive rubber that comes in sheets that I cut to shape and stick on them. I have some serious boat anchors stacked using these...I figured if I at 165 lbs can stand on one, then four of these can hold up anything I care to pile up.https://a360.co/2FbKH1I

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 16, 2019, 04:29:58 pm
content: Quote from: bson on March 16, 2019, 12:08:15 amThere is quite a big difference bewteen compression strength and shear strength (which is what beanflying was testing in his video).FDM prints are generally pretty good for compression strength, but so-so for shear strength, and awful for tensile strength.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 02:05:55 am
content: Great in compression strength. I have one of my large commercial Espresso machines (110kg) sitting on 4 PETG 40mm diameter feet and held onto the machine with a single M10 bolt straight into the Plastic.Layer orientation or even splitting parts for strength is sometimes a necessary evil and certainly a consideration with FDM. Even minimising supports or better yet removing the need for them.This Creality control box design below of mine prints without supports in spite of the level of detail because of the angle of the case split and then tweaking the internal structures to make them self support (under 450or extend PCB mount rails to the floor). With a simple vertical split the support requirements would have been horrid.

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 04:31:47 am
content: Quote from: Kean on March 16, 2019, 04:29:58 pmAh. I wasn't referring to the video... haven't watched it.

author: GregDunn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2019, 06:55:53 pm
content: Bean, I had a friend print out the HP 3470-series rear foot and Defpom's 3-point snap-in feet (for my 3478A). They all fit perfectly and with a little pad of adhesive foam on each one, even keep the gear from sliding around. Life is good!

author: Bicurico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2019, 10:08:09 pm
content: Hi,Here is my contribution: feet for the HP/Agilent 8590 spectrum analyzer series.A little background: this series uses rubber feet around the case (front and back). These rubber parts get really worn out with time and in my case, the two units I purchased came without any feet. I think that the previous owner either "forgot" to put them back on or, my suspicion, the devices where installed in some rack or whatever.Using these devices without the feet is not reasonable, because the metal case around the device has a joint on the lower side. If you put the device flat on a table, it will wobble to the left and right due to this joint.Also, without the back feet, you cannot place the device in vertical position, for example in case of storage with small footprint.This means I really needed some feet.Casually, I am working on a software project that requires to capture 3D points using a Microscribe arm (https://revware.net/products/microscribe-portable-cmm/).Also, I finally managed to repair an old unit that was a dumpster case and which I luckily brought home with me. The problem was one of encoders was broken, as well as one of the axis counter IC.Anyway, having a Microscribe and knowing how to use a CAD software, I started the reverse engineering process by digitizing the surface where the feet attach to.I guided my design through pictures of the HP 8594E, in order to make the front feet look as close to the original as possible and reasonable.The back feet, however, are considerably different. That is because I actually disliked the original HP design and, also, I had to have print material consumption in mind.So I designed them a little different, but I think the result is actually pretty good.I had the feet printed in our office, where we have Markforged printers. I used a Markforged Mark Two with their Onyx material (https://markforged.com/mark-two/). This material is not the toughest of the available materials, but it is still very robust. In fact, it is unbreakable with your bear hands and can compete with aluminium. The only draw-back is the color: this material is only available in black and it is not easy to paint (I tried on a different component).So the feet on my device are black instead of white-ish.The surface finishing and overall tolerance is miles away from cheap 100 Euro China-Clone-Printer. Especially if you spend a moment figuring out what is the most favorable position to print each part (I left that to my colleague who operates the printers).Attached are pictures and an archive with the STL files. Please note that the front feet are made of two different models - you need to print 2 of each. This is obviously because they are mirrored (Up-Left and Down-Right <-> Up-Right and Down-Left). Obvious? Well, I got the first trial wrong and printed 4 of the same kind...Good luck!Regards,Vitor

author: Bicurico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2019, 10:15:04 pm
content: Here is another part:A button for the encoder on the Rohde&Schwarz CMU2000 and CRTU.Note that you need a 3D printer cabable of printing walls with 1.3mm thickness! This is needed for the inner core. If you use a cheap printer, it would probably be better to reinforce the inner support structure.Regards,Vitor

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2019, 12:13:53 am
content: Quote from: Bicurico on March 19, 2019, 10:08:09 pmThanks for the models added to the index post.Interesting project with the Microscribe and very nice prints off the Markforge and Onyx Filament tooI got a couple of rolls of PLA+ I have been going to try and see if they produce anything noticeably better unfortunately any of the branded fancy filaments tend to cost way to much by the time we get them in Australia.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2019, 07:28:09 pm
content: regarding those rear feet, this photo of a HP 3581A I found may come in handy.

author: Bicurico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2019, 09:05:53 pm
content: Hi,While the feet of your device are completely different from the feet used on the HP 8590 series, they show one of the reasons I decided to redesign them.Notice that the screws have to be extra long! I made the feet, so that a much shorter screw can be used. Also, the feet go around the edge, securing the case (which the original 8590 feet already did, too).Regards,Vitor

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2019, 11:08:30 pm
content: Quote from: Bicurico on March 21, 2019, 09:05:53 pmThose feet are in reference to an older model Hewlett Packard Scope I guessed/designed some feet for a few days ago (one page back)Quote from: TERRA Operative on March 21, 2019, 07:28:09 pmInteresting seems that model has a long bolt unlike Tautech's earlier one. The Square top seems close to what I guessed for Tautechs and the Zipped STL's have a short and a long bolt option so with luck it should suit the HP 3581A too. The only difference seems to be a taper on the leg.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2019, 12:35:01 am
content: Great thread. This is a sticky candidate.

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2019, 04:37:06 am
content: Thanks for sharing some of my replacement part designs.I have a couple more bits which I didn't see listed (I could have just missed them).Lever for HP PCB daughter boards:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2909930Valhalla 2703 (and 2705) Front Handle:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2910473I make new items as I come across things I need to repair, so the list gets added to as the need arrises.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2019, 04:41:50 am
content: Quote from: TheDefpom on March 22, 2019, 04:37:06 amThanks for jumping in.I haven't gone over Thingiverse is a systematic search yet it's on the 'list'I will add your couple of extras on the index.BTW How is your 2703 going now? I scored a really nicely working one unlike your problem child.

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2019, 04:47:30 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 22, 2019, 04:41:50 amIt was OK the last time I used it, I need to do a calibration on it, haven't done that yet, but I picked up a Fluke 540B thermal transfer standard (which I also had to repair) so that I can calibrate it with my Fluke 341A DC calibrator (which I also repaired).I will do a video on it eventually!

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2019, 04:59:52 am
content: Quote from: TheDefpom on March 22, 2019, 04:47:30 amI know that rabbit hole well. Buy another bit to Calibrate the first bitI have both of my Agilent 6 1/2 digits on their way to Keysight for Calibration at present, when they get home the entire fleet gets a proper going over and Tweak against the pair

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2019, 06:57:28 pm
content: Base part for vertical gain knob for SC 504 Oscilloscopehttps://grabcad.com/library/vertical-gain-knob-for-tek-sc504-1The files are too large to post here.Printing this was a long exercise as the photo shows. On the left was an attempt to mold the part. No go with deep thin walls. The key settings as I remember were Cura Fine print settings for base, with 92% density (supposedly optimum for strength), used PLA+ at print temp of 210C. The disk on the end was required to get adequate base adhesion and is sanded off or otherwise removed.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2019, 12:32:24 am
content: Quote from: CatalinaWOW on March 22, 2019, 06:57:28 pmFrustrating beast to get right. Some of these more fiddly ones like this and the HP knobs seem like ideal candidates for non FDM printing even if they were outsourced to a service might get a stronger more detailed result. I keep denying myself a Resin printer but if the raw material prices come down I might add one to the fleet.Shame you need to sign your life over to Stratasys to download the files too

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2019, 03:06:05 am
content: Quote from: Ice-Tea on March 14, 2019, 11:43:36 amWas doing some site searches here for any other lost designs and came across the owner of the missing design from Thingiversehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/restoration-of-lecroy-wavemaster-wavepro-front-bezel-by-3d-printing/msg2217930/#msg2217930Even with the files removed for whatever Mechatrommer's reasons were the thread is worth a read.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2019, 02:58:28 am
content: It is not too hard or expensive to find the HP snap in feet used on a wide variety of small instruments including the 3468B multimeter, but it is was a fun challenge to model and print. There are a number of functionally equivalent model numbers (at least as far as I can tell). 5040-7201, 5040-7222, 5041-8801 and 5041-9167 are ones I am aware of.This is not an exact copy of any of them. Changes were made to suit 3D printing and to make it easier to model. Also the instructions molded into the foot were omitted.Sliced with Cura, best printed feet down, 85-90% fill, with gyroid infill pattern, and zig-zag supports everywhere. I used PLA+ filament at 210C and bed temp of 50C. Any elephant footing will kill the ability to fit mounting holes, so if you have some trim or sand it down.stl file updated 10/18/2022 for better fit and to eliminate a geometry problem.HP 5041-7201 -rev a - copy is an .stl file, renamed to meet forum naming restrictions. Change the extension to stl and it is ready to use.

author: texaspyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2019, 03:20:18 am
content: HP feet are easy to find since somebodu in China tooled up to make them... the tilt bails, no so easy... at least the last time that I looked.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2019, 03:33:36 am
content: The tilt bails are easy to make. I did a couple today. All it takes is a vise, a crescent wrench and a pair of pliers. Which also means it is easy to make them different lengths which is good for different uses.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2019, 08:45:21 am
content: Quote from: texaspyro on April 04, 2019, 03:20:18 amWhile you can buy some of them once the design is done and proven to work anyone can print a foot for under $1 and generally under an hours time.On my list of projects will be feet for my 419A which will also suit a bunch more similar aged HP small format Gear (including my 735A currently sitting on self adhesive rubber). Also missing is the lower and side panels and tossing around Laser engraved smoke grey sides and either a printed or getting an aluminium lower one made.

author: nfmax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2019, 03:00:11 pm
content: On the subject of the 419A, how about the little plastic thingummywidgets that take a PK screw and clip into a chassis hole, used to insulate Guard from Ground? My instrument is short a few, and hence not so well assembled as it used to be!

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2019, 04:11:48 pm
content: Quote from: nfmax on April 04, 2019, 03:00:11 pmWon't take much to model so I will take a look when I do the feet and panels.Interesting video on dielectric breakdown of PLA prints if anyone is interested.https://youtu.be/ZqXQRq8As1o

author: JohnPi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2019, 05:14:04 am
content: I worked on a similar (but simpler) push-on knob for the E36xxA (E3610A, E3620A, E3630A etc.) power supplies. These are friction fit, so take a little finessing on the sizing. Knurling on my prints is a little rough, but not so objectionable; I think I need better quality PLA. Here it is:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3546393

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2019, 06:54:05 am
content: Just finalising a foot design for some of the smaller HP instruments. The one shown will suit nominal 5 1/8" wide case (735A, 327A and others) and I will be tweaking a version for the 7 3/4" wider case (419A and others).I was going to do a version of the push in tool less clip but I have decided to go down the path of a 5mm knurl nut and button head screw. There is sufficient clearance of the head due to the design of these feet unlike the edge type feet of the same era. With the fairly tight tolerance I have used on the clip in parts it really isn't needed anyway.For best strength on the clips it needs to be printer on it's side so as circled I have tweaked a surface with a 45 degree chamfer to reduce the supports needed.Full Sample one is on the printer and everything being ok I will add it here later today.I will still have a play with a rivet version and see if I can get it right too.Edit: Off the printer and it works. Just needs a few subtle tweaks to make it work better on the printer.Added a photo of the sample installed.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2019, 08:46:44 am
content: I'm liking this thread.Quote from: JohnPi on April 08, 2019, 05:14:04 amJust a heads up - keysight still sell those and they are probably cheaper than printing them! Think I paid less than $1 each for them last time.@beanflying: feet on my 400E are identical to your 427A for ref.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2019, 09:29:39 am
content: I like this thread tooNice work for the 3d printed parts, i wish i could do that loll no experience at allI would love to do 2 very old buttons , they have around 2 inches long shafts, for an 57 years old Phillips vintage tube radio from my father

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2019, 09:35:39 am
content: Quote from: coromonadalix on April 16, 2019, 09:29:39 amIf you still have one then epoxy is an option. Check out some of these linked youtube videoshttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/msg2255121/#msg2255121OrIf you were really keen then sharpen up some CAD skills and draw them up and get them made by one of us mob or an online 3DP source.

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2019, 04:19:35 pm
content: Yep, there are a few good free options for CAD software and while it will take a couple weeks to get a really good feel for manipulating things and remembering where all the right tools are and such.... it's not a process that's too bad to learn. Especially if you're familiar with mechanical drawings and how those translate into physical parts, you basically start by making a drawing in a program an then expand it out into 3d space, but you can make a drawing of every major side and manipulate the 3d model to line up with it perfectly. A bit time consuming to learn, but powerful and fairly intuitive if you're familiar with this kind of thing.It is nice to have the printer yourself so you can test fit and make minor adjustments quickly, though.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2019, 12:53:13 am
content: Quote from: DaJMasta on April 16, 2019, 04:19:35 pmYep V3 Foot is a winner but there is still a tweak needed so V4 coming up. I want to reduce the width of the angled sections where the bail slides along to lock in position. At the standard width and on the genuine part the foot flexes a lot and is most likely why a lot of them failed. 0.8mm a side should do it.Second tweak for others wanting to make this I am going to drop the knurl nut from the design as 5mm is a bit of an odd one to keep and just under size the hole to 4.8mm for the 5mm lock screw. With PLA the screw will tap itself in even if you don't own a 5mm tap to do it nicely.Underside of my 735A Transfer Standard. I will use my pair of genuine one on the rear of it and the 427A as they are under less stress.Edit: Photo added still has clearance under the screw head even with the feet sitting in the slot of the 6632B fascia.

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2019, 05:14:06 am
content: Awesome work, bean! The only narrow-body gear I have is a 3469B. Everything else is in the 7-3/4" enclosures. I've been fortunate to have gotten feet on all but one of them, but their longevity is certainly a concern with the tilting bail. So, I just leave them stacked.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2019, 01:03:26 pm
content: Just about got the two sorted out for others to play with. First of the 7 3/4" ones. My 419A need a bottom and side plates making for it so I will fire up the Laser for the sheet parts at this stage. Narrow 427A floor just to keep the bits in place.Seems the alignment of the longer feet to bail is different by a touch so the foot needs to come forward by 1/16" so the bail sits more vertically? Tomorrow job 11pm, Beans are roasted and my Brain is scrambled.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2019, 09:21:34 am
content: 7 3/4" Case Hewlett Packard formerly push button foot to Suit Late 60's and 70's gear.Sorted and fairly happy with the result. Included in the zip file is the Fusion Cad file and STL for the print. As discussed in the preceding few posts the design requires a 5x10mm (may be ok with longer but check) Button Head screw instead of the more complex rivet and spring original.Print it as you see it in the STL on edge to ensure the clips have maximum strength. I got the best results using the following on an Ender Pro and sli3er PE.0.12mm Layer height, 6 top, bottom and perimeters, 40% infill. It will need to be printed with supports and may take a tweak depending on your slicer and printer but I dropped the overhang threshold to 40 degrees (works ok with 0.12mm layer), no support for bridges and 3 interface layers to make separating the material minimal.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2019, 09:30:38 am
content: Looks excellent

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2019, 09:32:50 am
content: 4 1/8" Case Hewlett Packard formerly push button foot to Suit Late 60's and 70's gear.Sorted and fairly happy with the result. Included in the zip file is the Fusion Cad file and STL for the print. As discussed in the preceding few posts the design requires a 5x10mm (may be ok with longer but check) Button Head screw instead of the more complex rivet and spring original.Print it as you see it in the STL on edge to ensure the clips have maximum strength. I got the best results using the following on an Ender Pro and sli3er PE.0.12mm Layer height, 6 top, bottom and perimeters, 40% infill. It will need to be printed with supports and may take a tweak depending on your slicer and printer but I dropped the overhang threshold to 40 degrees (works ok with 0.12mm layer), no support for bridges and 3 interface layers to make separating the material minimal.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2019, 01:44:02 pm
content: Tektronix 453 Rear Cable Wrap Feet.I recently got one of these with a mixed bag of damaged rear feet. The bottom feet on the 453 will get the treatment in the next day or two. No idea what other Tek's this fits so let me know?Same procedure as other Cad and the two STL's are in the Zip File. It would be easy to mod if you are missing the rear lugs and needed to use a longer bolt. instead of the stud and screw. The Cap fits into the stock base if that is all you need to make.

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2019, 09:35:21 pm
content: Quote from: beanflying on April 18, 2019, 09:21:34 amThis is AWESOME, these feet are literally impossible to find.The HP part number for the shorter 5 1/8" foot was 5060-0727, while the part number for the wider 7 3/4" foot in cases was 5060-0728

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2019, 09:48:30 pm
content: Bean, you're just awesome at these. I will have to start calling you Dr. Bean, Test Equipment Podiatrist.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 01:05:01 am
content: Thanks GuysSome are easy like the Tek Feet as you have one mechanical constraint to work around. The HP click in foot was a bit of a pain as it relies on several mechanical points at odd fine angles and tight tolerances for it to work. If you load up the Cad file you will get an idea. The lower feet are going to be a bit of a guess for shape but so long as it fits the hardware and the holes on the cart will be fine.The nice bit is when it all works and you get to show off your morning glory

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 03:17:05 am
content: Tektronix 453 Lower FeetAs per the previous post the lower feet on mine needed replacing. I have treated these like a knurl nut used in some of my other 3D models and slightly squeeze fitted the inner Hex with a small step to make alignment easier.Print is easy but keep it heavy at 6 layers and 40% infill. It will be fine at 0.2 but I went with 0.12mm layers again. Insertion temperature with the iron was 230C for PLA but you may need more or less depending on your material choice. Give it time to heat properly and only use moderate pressure, if it seems to high raise the Temp. Added a couple more shots to the preceeding post due to the 1Mb upload limit3 more to go

author: nfmax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2019, 08:05:40 am
content: Onewheelfoot on mywaggonHP1740A@beanflying or others, there is one, last (just) intact foot on my HP1740A scope. I have taken some pictures, and made a few measurements - though as you can see the foot is not exactly in its original condition.Overall length (as photo) 36.9 mm. The foot end of the foot is 9.5mm thick and 22.0 mm square, the hole for the screw head is 7.8 mm diameter and 23.7mm deep (to the surface of the washer, which didn't want to come out). The 'scope end of the foot is 21.2 mm square and 3.4 mm thick. The two flanges are each 2.1 mm thick. The spacings from the flat surface next the scope chassis to the more distant face of each flange are 11.7 mm & 20.9 mm.As you can see there is a little 'pip' on the 'scope face of each flange to help retain the mains cable.

author: nfmax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2019, 08:07:01 am
content: A couple more pictures. If you need any further measurements, just ask!

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2019, 08:31:59 am
content: I find it funny the 1740 uses a cord wrap foot when it's at all not needed as these scopes have an IEC socketed mains lead.Plus there's a wopping great leads pouch in which to store the mains cable.A new 3DP design is a fine chance to improve on the foot HP shipped with these scopes.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2019, 08:37:57 am
content: Totally agree. It's even worse for us in the UK as the plug is so damn big there's nowhere to put it. Cue scope rocking on top of a mains plug.Philips had the right idea on the PM33xx scopes as they added little plastic two/three pin holes in the rear of the case so you could plug the plug into the back of the scope to keep it out of the way. However they screwed up as the cord winder plastic broke off instantly the moment you wrapped the first cable around it or the cable was at the wrong length so you couldn't actually wind it around without it falling offAnd if they did ever leave space for a right angled IEC socket it was almost 100% certain that the IEC lead you had pointed the wrong way and couldn't be inserted

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2019, 08:46:10 am
content: Even my Korean Protek has thin cord wrap feet with an IEC so maybe a scope defacto standard over time and it gives the ability to float the scope easier?I will have a look at drawing a clone for the 1740 et al if people arekeenbut given the short screw and thinner nature of them it is asking for them to shear off again. While it is most likely the plastic used that failed the chunkier one I designed is the more practical.The recent Tek 453 I did was different in that it had a stud running nearly full depth and some of the main bits were still ok so I went clone instead of fatter and practical mainly so I could just print the tops caps needed.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2019, 08:56:44 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on April 29, 2019, 08:46:10 amYes I guess that was their thinking at the time however who'd want to float a scope at say 400V and with 35mm of foot length and addingspeed bumpscord wrap ribs does effectively lessen any creepage risk but these days we don't have to go overboard due to the filaments we have for 3D printing compared to the hard rubbery foot HP originally used.Last 1740 I had I made feet from hollowed out bits of wooden broom handle.

author: nfmax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2019, 09:21:46 am
content: Quote from: bd139 on April 29, 2019, 08:37:57 amI have a Hameg HM605 which has the moulded-in 13A dummy socket, too. Those scopes are actually very nice, and almost completely repairable - no custom ICs or hybrids.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2019, 09:24:13 am
content: I've used but never actually owned a Hameg scope. Might have to sort that outThey also have the component tester (curve tracer) which is rather useful too

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2019, 05:05:09 am
content: I got bored last night so I came up with my own version of the rear stand-offs for HP gear.Someone might find it useful maybe..https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3606417BTW, does anyone know what the thread size is for the screws for these things? I'm having trouble matching it up to anything..

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2019, 05:32:47 am
content: Depending on the Era HP/Agilent have used a mix of US threads and Metric. Given the era for those rear feet I would take a stab at UNC or UNF depending. I brought a set of cheap pitch gauges to help me sort them out.Metric and Imperial pitcheshttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/Thread-Plug-Gage-Stainless-Steel-Metric-American-Screw-Pitch-60-and-55-Degree-Thread-Measuring-Gage/1000003164025.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.755b4c4dhy9PjcGenerally they follow a format of 4-40 8-32 or 6-24 describing the nominal diameter and TPI. 6-32 is fairly common and in about 3.5mm in metric and is also used fairly commonly on general enclosures too.More Reading

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2019, 12:08:41 am
content: Minor addition: Dust covers for an Anritsu OSLN50 O/S/L calibration tee:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3615116The normal N type male dust covers I had didn't fit, so I designed up one to print from flexible filament. Doesn't fit too tight (may work in a rigid filament type) and keeps the dust out when you've got your antenna analyzer or VNA on the move.

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2019, 04:24:26 am
content: A few days later, another one:Rear foot for a Sencore Powerite II PR570 variable isolation transformer - will probably fit other equipment from Sencore as well, there are a few things in this form factor.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3624712

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2019, 04:39:34 am
content: Nice looking prints on the last oneI will get them added to the front index in a bit.Getting sidetracked at present into playing with my little 40W Laser and some Acrylic Panels for my 419A project.

author: 0culus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2019, 03:19:11 am
content: I looked through the list at the top of the thread, but didn't see anything (maybe I'm blind). Has anyone successfully made feet for older style HP gear such as the 8640B sig gen?

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2019, 03:30:48 am
content: Quote from: 0culus on May 19, 2019, 03:19:11 amNot sure but I think you will find them to be the pushbutton types like this one TerraOperative was working onhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/msg2266131/#msg2266131Also adding my 60's/70's HP Logo files here as they will be less lost than in TEASVG File in the zip.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2019, 06:22:58 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 09, 2019, 06:32:38 amJust fyi, this feet don't fit in my Rohde & Schwarz SML 03 siggen.

author: Muttley Snickers
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 02, 2019, 07:21:11 pm
content: I posted a video link showing this 121GW tilt stand extension in the 121GW Discussion thread and have now included a direct link to the item as well. This is not my product so if you use it be sure to give credit and thanks to the person who did the work.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3666409

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 09, 2019, 06:02:42 am
content: Thanks beanflying for this great resource - some of my HP and one TI calculator filesBattery door and catch for HP 41CV printer HP 82143AHP 34702A FootTI Calculator Battery DoorCatch for the HP Classic calculator battery door - they break a lotEdit : Zip Files separatedThanks again beanflying

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2019, 06:11:24 am
content: Quote from: VK5RC on June 09, 2019, 06:02:42 amCan you maybe split the Zip so the contents are easier to link to or know what is inside? Doesn't need top be separate posts just maybe edit the one above then I will add them individually into the index posts.

author: salvagedcircuitry
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2019, 05:50:24 pm
content: Hey guys. I ran into some broken Xantrex XPH power supplies with missing output buttons. I've attached the CAD in stl for 3d printing the button.These buttons should work on several sorensen / xantrex / tti model power supplies.Here's what it looks like on the front panel now (the black button in the bottom right corner)The measurements were taken with a caliper on an OEM button from another psu.The plastic button is a press-in install. You don't need to remove the front panel of the PSU to install it. The PSU uses a latched output button like old 90s computers. The button stalk is even similar in size.The part is tiny (less than 0.5in x 0.25in x 0.25in size) and should only take minutes to 3d print.There are (2) files attached. One features a perfectly cylindrical button and the other has a 1 degree draft.The OEM output button has a 2 degree draft, but it is purely cosmetic and may cause problems in 3d printing when printing from the side of the smaller diameter.Ideally, you want to print from the side of the button without the hole so you don't need to clear any support material.Let me know what you think!

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2019, 04:24:21 am
content: Quote from: salvagedcircuitry on June 11, 2019, 05:50:24 pmDepending on the space on the top of the button or hole as the case may be model in a 45 degree chamfer is an easy way to avoid needing support material to keep a desired bed orientation. I use this sort of solution fairly often and if you run 0.1mm layers you can push this to nearly 60 degree overhangs without major sagging.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2019, 04:33:10 am
content: My turn to play with the 121GW with a Magnetic and webbing loop hanger.The webbing one has been printed and works great and I am waiting on magnets for the other but the modded end should print fine.6 layers all round, 40% infill, supported on the bed only works fine at 0.2mm layers. While PLA works consider using PETG as it is tougher for impacts and the release catch will flex easier. Print it on edge as the STL in the Zip files below.Magnet source -eBay auction: #18336488215720x10mm with 5mm countersunk bore. Also needed is a 5x18mm screw and nyloc nut (or nut and lockwasher)

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2019, 09:56:34 am
content: Fluke 5440B/510x/850x feet. - cross posted from a WTB thread so it doesn't get lost.Where else would I be on a wet and cold Saturday afternoon. I was going for a bike ride then 7 degrees and falling my brain made other decisions and there was beer.Obviously not an identical clone but one that leans toward easy printing and matching heights of the real one. Print them on their side for strength on the pips that go into the case. 0.2mm layers with bed only support worked fine.I have made it to take these 12x12x5.8mm feet readily available on evilbayeBay auction: #143252416915which like the real one lifts the feet clear of the bench but then stops it from clipping over the side of a unit under it.STL is in the Zip file.

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2019, 04:52:32 am
content: This thread is pretty hard to find with the search tool... but I've been gradually making and testing models for other equipment, so here's an update with some additional contributions to the library:R&S Feet for SMIQ/SMT/SME/FSEA/FSEB/FSIQ/ZVR/ZVRE and maybe more - complete with kickstandhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3882663R&S power button for SMIQ/SMT/SME - probably others, but they use a different kind of switch and I haven't tried to pull them off to checkhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3882440R&S front knobs for SMIQ/SMT/SME, big knob compatible with at least FSEA/FSEB/FSIQ/ZVR/ZVEhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3827226LeCroy Wavepro 7k/8k/SDA/DDA/Wavemaster front bezel and power button - broken up into parts to be printable on a smaller machinehttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3834875Phase Matrix Inc. EIP 25/28+ microwave counter feet - likely compatible with all EIP counters, don't have them to checkhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3817945Triwing security SMA wrench - couldn't find one for sale, printed in polycarbonate to good effect, fits around even a longer SMA connector to remove the security nuthttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3832862Also I hate that thingiverse now changes the aspect ratio of uploaded pictures for no reason.

author: Neomys Sapiens
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2019, 12:02:06 am
content: It is not exactly a replacement, because you can only obtain it that way, but there is a reasonably usable stand for the PEAK series of instruments (LCR45, DCA55, ESR70 etc) which found on their website, but it does not seem to be available anymore. Therefore, here it is (2 versions):

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2019, 09:24:55 am
content: So that's HP and Tek feet, an LCR45 stand, various enclosures so far which are looking useful. This thread is slowly costing me a 3d printer.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2019, 10:00:04 am
content: Quote from: bd139 on September 28, 2019, 09:24:55 amJust stop resisting you know you need it. Think of all the crafty prints for your girls available on Thingiverse too ....Bit busy but I will add the last couple of posts to the indexs when I have a minute.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2019, 10:07:23 am
content: Hahaha I asked them about it and it’ll be pen pots galoreWhat 3D cad software do people recommend? I want to avoid Fusion 360 if possible. Mostly interested in relatively simple enclosures, test gear parts and test fixtures.Edit: ok I bought one. And am learning FreeCAD. I have some experience with SolidWorks and ME10 already going back a looong while so need to dig deep in the brain.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2019, 05:29:52 am
content: I use Rhinoceros 3D, been using it for 15-odd years and love it.

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2019, 12:15:09 am
content: Wow! I wish I'd found this thread 2 weeks ago before I ordered the U1179A IR Clip for my U1242B meter. Is the knob design bybeanflyingthe same as the slightly tapered 0370-3238 HP knobs used on the 6xxxA DC PSUs eg 6643A?I've been 3D printing for fun for a few years. I have a Qidi Dual head 3D printer (FlashForge Creator Pro clone). I design my own parts using FreeCAD 0.16 which I taught myself by watching youtube videos (I tried 0.17 but it weirded me out because everything seemed to have changed), and I use Simplfy 3D for my slicer. I also modified the printer bed to use a glass plate but I need to improve the holding down of that plate using something better than bulldog clips because it's not good for the heads if they crash into the clips.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2019, 12:52:20 am
content: Not sure on your actual PS But I pulled the knob off my 6632B (front right in the combined picture) and it is dimensionally the same as the one I modeled just without the pip in this case of it being a rotary. Internally is is different as the rotary encoder is a flat shaft and it pushes over.I will check but I think I uploaded the Fusion 360 files so modding it shouldn't be to hard. The tricky bit for me at the time was getting the splines on the taper to work but I have learned a few more tricks since.Just checked and I uploaded the lot here to google drive due to sizehttps://drive.google.com/file/d/16TDa7CEWRLShBq6--NWDScFT7Y22YXop/viewAlso check out JohnPi's design I ran across looking for mine. Much simplier and might be just the thing for encoder based PS.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/msg2328255/#msg2328255Can you import STL's into Freecad?

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2019, 01:51:24 pm
content: Well I checked into my order (from Keysight) for a U1179A IR Clip and it hasn't shipped and that 16 days after I placed the order and paid for it! How USELESS! In a fit of annoyance, I cancelled my order and got an email saying they were going to ship it to me on Monday and will try to cancel the order - PAH!Then I designed my own (which cost me way more in time than $17) and vn 1 is printing as I write this.@beanflying, I've attached pictures of the PSU & knobs I'm talking about (I have another supply that's missing the knobs and is using gaudy Chinese ones). They are tapered, push on, and have a flat internally.[EDIT1 Yes I can import STLs into FreeCAD but I'm not a FreeCAD expert by any stretch of anyone's imagination It looks like the one you linked to may be a winneralthough it doesn't have the flat internallyit even has the internal flat

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2019, 01:21:15 pm
content: So here's my attempt at a replacement for (not copy of) a U1179A. I looked at the fitment on the back of my U1252B that, for some inexplicable reason, is missing from the U1242B and melded that with my detailed digital caliper measurements of the back of my U1242B. The pictures show the result and I've also attached the stl file.I had issues printing it in PVA which seemed too brittle and broke, the grey stuff is eSun PLA+ and, after playing with the temperature settings, I got acceptable results in the grey color shown This works well with my U1117A BT adapter and my U1173B USB-IR cable.

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2019, 02:10:19 pm
content: I was trying to print that knob today but the Simplify 3D slicer doesn't like it. It looks OK on the import but when I try to process for print, it looks like this....Any ideas?

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2019, 05:52:40 pm
content: The walls are too thin for your extrusion width? I'd look to see if there's a "detect thin walls" setting or something (that's what it is in slic3r/prusaslicer), and make sure that your extrusion width (often slightly larger than your nozzle width) is small enough to accommodate the wall thickness.That said, I'd change the model. I would fill in all of the air gap between the outer shell and the inner shell that connects to the D shaft. In injection molding, you leave that blank because it uses less material/lightens it up/doesn't improve durability.... but with 3d printing we have infill. Fill in the gap in the model, let the slicer fill it with whatever loose infill you choose, and then you have no wall thickness issues on either side, even if you want a super durable like 4 or 5 perimeter wall.

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2019, 06:45:11 pm
content: @DajMastaThanks, I found the thin wall settings in Simplify 3D but that didn't fix the issue. Your suggestion is a good one but the link to thingiverse gives an stl and a 3dm (Rhino) file and FreeCAD can't work with Rhino. I am not confident enough in my CAD skills to tweak the stl file.Is any good Samaritan eevblogger here willing to tweak the 3dm file for us?

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2019, 04:46:25 am
content: Not 100% sure what model you're talking about? I looked at some of the HP knobs in the thread and they look pretty dramatically different from that render.... and most of them have wall thickness that would be fine to print already. I also haven't been able to find one in a 3dm file format?I wonder if the slicer is just having trouble with something about the file. I know some model files can have oddities that certain programs don't like. Trying another slicer (or even just loading it in a renderer) to verify could be good, but there may also be an option to fix model problems automatically which could help. Since I don't quite know for sure without the original model it's hard to say, but maybe some of the internal structure has been inverted? Does it look OK before you slice it?

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2019, 05:23:44 am
content: I think he was playing with JohnPi's design which is like the modern knobs with a hollowed cavity. Shouldn't be hard to rehack one of mine to a push on encoder version but I am playing Laser Boy at present.

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2019, 10:11:54 am
content: This the one I am trying to print...https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3546393Glad you have your priorities right beanflying

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2019, 04:44:50 pm
content: Give this version a try. Opened up the file and it was pretty easy to extrude, though it loaded in with every individual feature as its own body. Then loaded up the filled in version and the original in prusaslicer and sliced - both seemed to work fine. Maybe your slicer just doesn't like something about the original model? The pic is original on the right, new version on the left.In any case, it's another version to try. If you can get it to work, maybe it's worth configuring a backup/alternate slicer that is happier with other kinds of models.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3904623

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2019, 11:19:10 pm
content: So I printed 3 of those with the hole facing down with added supports which I thought would bring out the outer shape best but they came out a bit rough but OK; no issues with simplify 3D.The second shot was taken during the print so you can see the support; removing it afterwards worked well. eSun PLA+ is really strong and I used 210 C head and 55 C bed (glass plate) temps. I think I might try 0.001" layer height and slow down the print for better finish quality.Thanks

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2019, 11:29:29 pm
content: No problem, if your extrusion temp is low enough, printing the opposite orientation with no supports is probably still likely going to work - short overhangs usually come out alright in PLA even though the fillet there is a little harder to print (steeper overhang angle) than a chamfer.For the knurling, yeah I think slowing down (specifically the perimeter speed setting) is probably the way to go to get some more clarity (maybe you could try perimeter acceleration, too). They'd be perfectly usable as is, the randomness of it would probably grip quite well, but you're probably seeing a little ringing on the axis or backlash from the belt tensioning that's just making it a bit inaccurate and slowing down should help with both.I wonder if it's just the way the stl file was exported? The knob's original designer used a different program to export, I used Fusion360, and maybe there's just something in the formatting of the file that's different and that Simplify3D doesn't like. There's actually a chance that getting blender or meshmixer or something could be valuable in that case, so for any stls with issues, you just import them to the other program, then reexport. Since they probably don't save in exactly the same format, it could fix the thing the slicer doesn't like.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2019, 12:08:49 am
content: If you go back through this thread the fine flutes on the knobs caused sli3erPE some problems until I tweaked the right setting so PEBCAK and not a slicer or printer issueIn the end 0.1mm Layers and turning off 'Detect Thin Wall' and 'Avoid Crossing Perimeter' got it done with the best results.Currently running the newest version of Prusa Slicer 2.1 and really starting to like the extra features over sli3erPE.Also downloaded Cura 4.3 for another look at. Not a fan but I really need to try it some more before dismissing it.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2019, 01:30:45 pm
content: Quote from: beanflying on September 28, 2019, 10:00:04 amWell as you probably know from the TEA thread I did it. One Ender 3 and I've got the hang of it at last so the first TE related 3d print was done this morning (after the kids had got a few through). One new shoe for my 1740A thanks to your STL.The scope is rather buried in the cupboard of doom so it may be a couple of days before I get to install it and check fit etc.I printed this one in 0.2mm layer height 100% fill and it's as solid as a rock.Thanks for your efforts, and persuasion

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2019, 04:50:35 pm
content: Generally speaking, 100% infill is entirely unnecessary. You can use a more durable infill pattern (honeycomb, cube, I like gyroid), but beyond 50% has very little effect, and between like 35% or so and 50% is only a relatively small increase in durability. If you want a really strong part, increase the number of perimeters and make sure your layer adhesion is good.My usual durable settings are about 30% infill and 3 perimeters, but default printing settings are more like 20% and 2 perimeters - saves a lot of time and material. Been printing test equipment parts, printer parts, outdoor parts, pretty much everything on no more than 35% infill or so.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2019, 01:44:11 am
content: The only print I intentionally use 100% infill on is the replacement Hammer heads. I erred on the heavy side with the 1740 feet when I printed and 'tested' them with said hammer at 6 layers and 40% infillMy normal heavy is 40% and 4 layers all round but I wasn't sure of the weight of the unit or the chances of it getting a sideways knock across the layers and I also wasn't particularly happy with the screw being so short so I went a bit heavier.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2019, 01:21:18 pm
content: I am mostly concerned with infill on this because the screw shaft compresses the entire body of the part onto the back of the scope plus it reduces shearing points for impacts (assuming layer adhesion isn't poo!).Anyway managed to dig the scope out this morning and it mostly fits. Dimensioning is good. To note however I printed the wrong one and should have done the 3.5x13.5 unit. Doh!. Measure twice, print onceHowever in the interests of learning what I'm doing, I have actually designed another one from scratch in FreeCAD using the original dimensions from beanflying's part simply because I'm fucked if I'm giving any cloud software vendor any attention after the recent Adobe Creative Cloud sanctions nightmare. It's exactly the same as the 3.5x13.5 unit but has locating pin at the top.Doing a 0.2mm / 20% infill test print now. Takes ~1 hour which is not bad.Citations on cloud risks:1.https://www.whitehouse.gov/presidential-actions/executive-order-blocking-property-government-venezuela/2.https://www.gizmodo.co.uk/2019/10/adobe-will-cancel-all-subscriptions-in-venezuela-to-comply-with-us-sanctions/

author: gwerl
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 12, 2019, 05:46:50 pm
content: I am looking to make some of these too for my HP 8640B.GHW

author: sixtimesseven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2019, 02:16:26 pm
content: I have designed a SMA adapter to repleace the expensive Lecroy LPA-SMA ProBus / ProLink adapters used on Lecroy Wavemaster 8000 series and DDA-5005.They require:Amphenol SF1117-6018:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/amphenol-sv-microwave/SF1117-6018/SF1117-6018-ND/6201695Amphenol 132170:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/amphenol-rf/132170/ACX1244-ND/1011921Total cost about 60USDThe adapter holds pretty well without screws but I will add some with security ring so that they do not fall out...Attached is the step file as zip as well as the dimensions of the interface.My version is printed on an Elegoo Mars resin printer, default settings.

author: sixtimesseven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2019, 07:58:29 pm
content: Here ist the protective cap for the ProBus / ProLink adapters used on Lecroy Wavemaster 8000 series and DDA-5005.

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2019, 08:45:57 pm
content: Neat looking print - between the layers and the little shavings from plugging in and out I had thought it was CnC milled acrylicI guess making a solid part is no problem if you're using connector adapters - not so much issue with dielectric properties when they're outside the shield.

author: sixtimesseven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2019, 06:49:53 pm
content: Here is the fan adapter I designed for a 120mm Rotron fan to 140mm Noctua fan with offset for the Wavepro / Wavemaster series as described here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/upgrading-mainboard-in-lecroy-dda-3000-(aka-wavepro-7300a)/msg2266779/?topicseen#msg2266779Might be usefull for other machines as well. In particular when the 120mm fan is close to an edge and a 140mm fan has to be offset to fit.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2019, 05:13:21 am
content: I have been off doing other projects and life but here is an idea that might help if anyone needs a physical knob with thread.3D printed top but allowance for a knurl nut insert and hex head bolt inserted from the top (screwed together tight). It helps spread the load much better than just a bolt alone and won't unscrew as the hex will be locked in place by the print and insert. This was a small part in a bigger design I was doing for $ recently.I will get back to indexing the last few additions ASAP

author: sixtimesseven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2019, 10:45:42 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on December 17, 2019, 05:13:21 amNice! It effectively becomes a metal insert? Does the knurl nut stay in place once it's in?Files and link to the nut would be nice

author: sixtimesseven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2019, 10:49:39 am
content: Quote from: DaJMasta on December 14, 2019, 08:45:57 pmThanks. I love resin printers. To bad the print bed is limited for the LCD based machines.Quote from: DaJMasta on December 14, 2019, 08:45:57 pmThe Resin is just structural. The RF part consists of the two adapters. That might become slightly problematic at 5GHz since connectors are always an impedance step and should be avoided but alternative parts cost about three times as much so....

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2019, 01:16:33 pm
content: 1). Put your test equipment upside down.2). Cut a strip from a piece of paper, about 1 or 2cm wide, several10's of cm long.3). Make a loop from the paper, and set it on your test equipment.4). Take your hot glue gun and fill the paper to the height needed.5). Let it cool.6). Remove paper and do a bit of post processing. Cut bits of with a knife, round sharp edges by re-heating with a hot air gun.7). Rub a bit of dirt in the surface to prevent your equipment form getting glued to the desk. (Just set it straight on the floor or some other dirty surface and move a few times)

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2019, 03:56:52 pm
content: Quote from: sixtimesseven on December 17, 2019, 10:45:42 amI will run up some STL's for 3, 4, 5, and 6mm (only have M5 in that design) with knurl nut links to suit. Then it is just a case of pick a bolt length and make it. The knurl nuts have plenty of bite and mechanically the only real job they do here is keep the bolt in the knob as the bolt head will stop the rotation more than the knurl.3am here so time for some zzzz

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2020, 09:09:30 am
content: I just drew up the rear terminal cover for a number of HP system power supplies. 65XX, 66XX, series etc.I haven't printed it myself, but the dimensions are accurate.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4122457

author: rcrook
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2020, 08:10:37 pm
content: I created this for my HP1640A but I think its generic enough to be used on a number of devices.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4136347Link to the OpenSCAD source files on github will follow shortly.Randall.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2020, 02:49:06 am
content: Quote from: Rerouter on March 09, 2019, 06:55:34 amNot sure if this is Rerouter but is sure looks like his designeBay auction: #283800016690Yes I have been a bad thread starter and need to add the last few designs to the index posts

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2020, 11:28:49 am
content: Think they printed them with the layers in the wrong orientation. Looks like any pressure would snap the fingers off. Mind you at least that's an original feature

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2020, 11:32:15 am
content: Here's another obscure part for a specific application:An adapter to allow the use of Pomona 3770 low EMF binding posts on your Yokogawa 2554 DC Volt Current Standard.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4008249

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2020, 04:55:01 pm
content: I don't exactly remember which ones aren't listed, but if you're going to update the early posts, I've got 20ish designs for test equipment so far, I've gotten pretty ok at copying test equipment plastics with only an hour or two and a revision.If they are of use, and you can get thingiverse to load anything:https://www.thingiverse.com/DaJMasta/collections/test-equipment-parts

author: Qw3rtzuiop
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2020, 06:50:35 pm
content: Here is my Keithley 236 banana jack faceplate:https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/26153-keithley-236-front-panel-output-connectors

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2020, 01:14:44 am
content: I recently made an adapter plate to allow for the installation of front binding posts on my HP 6644A System Power Supply.It should fit other similar models, so someone might find it useful.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4299873I also have a request, if someone can accurately draw up the rear feet for a Tek 2445 Scope and supply a STEP file, I'd be eternally grateful.

author: JohnPi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 06:25:20 pm
content: Here's a knob for an Agilent E3642A Power Supply -- likely it will fit others with similar knobs.It's about 30 mm in diameter with knurls. It fits on the 1/4" (6 mm) shaft with a flat on one side.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4369323

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 10:27:14 pm
content: Nicely done. The style and size actually appears to be the knob (E3632-40003) for the E3631A, E3632A, E3633A and E3634A.https://www.keysight.com/my/partDetail/E3632-40003(click to enlarge)Very similar is the knob (33120-87401) for the 33120A where the ribs are only about half of the depth of the knob, but same diameter.https://www.keysight.com/my/partDetail/33120-87401(click to enlarge)The knob (E3640-40003) for the E364xA series looks a bit different and is 25mm in diameter at the base.https://www.keysight.com/my/partDetail/E3640-40003(click to enlarge)They all have the same shaft.

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 11:08:40 pm
content: Having had less than spectacular results with FDM-printed parts, I ordered an SLA printer which is supposed to arrive on Friday.I started a thread on ithere

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 11:18:49 pm
content: Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on May 18, 2020, 11:08:40 pmSome recommendations which may help with the 3D printing.Try to avoid ABS, it is tricky to get right as it requires very good environmental control, dried material, etc. I prefer PETG for items that I want to be stronger than PLA.If you are printing relatively small parts swap your nozzle out to one with a smaller orifice, I use a 0.3mm instead of a 0.4mm most of the time, it results in slower prints, but the detail is better.Reduce the layer height, again this slows down the print a lot, but improves detail a fair bit, I use 0.1mm a lot of the time, and sometimes even 0.05mm.Print slower... going slower almost always improves the quality (you may need to reduce your nozzle temp to compensate so you don't degrade the material, anything to do with processing plastics at temperature is a balance between temperature and residence time).

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2020, 09:09:17 pm
content: Hi,I recently designed a replacement power button push-rod for the Xantrex (Sorensen) XT, XTS and HPD range of power supplies.Here is a picture of the model:DetailI have attached the Fusion 360 files. If you use this you will have to adjusted the dimensions to get it to fit.Regards,Jay_Diddy_Bxantrex rod final.zip(203.24 kB - downloaded 312 times.)

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 06:31:53 pm
content: Almost too trivial to post. Foot for HP 4935A. It is pretty generic so will work for many applications. ZIP file contains FreeCAD format and .stl

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2020, 05:46:08 am
content: Hi group,I would like to share a tilting foot assembly that I have been working on a Wavetek 957A Microwave Source. I am sure this could be adapted for other applicationsThis is a two part foot that has idents at 0 and 95 degrees:Here are some pictures from the model:3D PrintingThe two parts are printed together assembled. There is a small gap of 0.15mm between the two parts in the model.PhotographsRegards,Jay_Diddy_B

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2020, 01:14:27 pm
content: Nice work Jay Diddy

author: jjoonathan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2020, 04:12:59 am
content: Wohoo, my first 3D printing project, and half of it was a success!I made some feet and a front panel (more of a bar, really) to bring the outputs of my SMU to the front. I am super happy with the feet, but the 3D printed front panel was a bit of a dumpster fire. It was too large for my printer so I had to split it in two, and then the dimensional accuracy was so poor that I couldn't get dovetails to mate without very loose tolerances (20 thou!) and external support, and then the rigidity was too poor to push banana jacks in without horribly deforming it, so I put a sheet metal support strip on the top and bottom, but it was so damn ugly at that point I couldn't possibly suffer it to live so I gave up and machined the damn thing out of Aluminum manually. While manually machining it I messed up the origin (I forgot about the taper of the Keithley front panel) but I decided to live with it instead of tossing more booze into the dumpster fire.Anyway, I put the feet on Thingverse:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4457682

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2020, 10:52:16 pm
content: Anyone know where to buy Keithley 2000 or 6485 rubber front feet?

author: Ankorjd
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 25, 2020, 10:30:49 am
content: Dear Jay_Diddy_B,Very interesting work you made regarding the Wavetek 957A. I am interested in adapting the parts you developed for an Adret generator. Could it be possible to receive a copy of your files?With my best regardsAnkorjd

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2020, 12:11:41 pm
content: Hi group,Here are some design to replace HP Agilent Keysight parts 5040-1674 and 5040-1676.These covers are often missing when equipment is sold on the secondary market.5040-1674These are used on:6571A, 6572A, 6573A, 6574A, 6575A6671A, 6672A, 6673A, 6674A, 6675A85301A-E95, E4356A, E4370A, E6189A, E6238A5040-1676AC Input Safety CoverThese are used on:6571A, 6572A, 6573A, 6574A, 6575A66000A, 6671A, 6672A, 6673A, 6674A, 6675A6811A, 6811B, 6812A, 6812B, 6813A, 6813B6841A, 6842A, 85301A-E95, E4356AE6189A, E6238AMore pictures in this thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hp-6671a-option-j05-j09-5v-250a-power-supply/msg3252034/#msg3252034Regards,Jay_Diddy_Bbus bar cover.zip(140.95 kB - downloaded 280 times.)line input cover.zip(44.74 kB - downloaded 303 times.)

author: dl6lr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2020, 08:09:22 pm
content: Just found this thread and thought I can contribute.Gould K-105D input key. May fit other instruments. This is a push fit, so maybe you have to twiggle a bit with the settings.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3117369Regards,Bernd

author: Lestron
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 09, 2020, 09:14:19 pm
content: Foot and fold out stand for Keithley source meter 236, 237 238Made mine out of Petg as they are stressed in operation and I was worried about strength.Works well.

author: Lestron
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 09, 2020, 09:20:37 pm
content: Card Guide for Fluke 8505 8506 metersThe originals get brittle with time, and are made of unobtanium.

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 07:28:10 pm
content: Hi,I am going the to share the files for a replacement for the HP 4040-1686 bus cover. This was used on the HP 6012A Power supply. Most of the units sold are missing this cover. The design was based on the photograph of an original part and dimensions measured on the power supply.3D ModelThe cover is held in place by two 6-32 by 1.5 inch screws.PhotographI have printed this in PLA.I have attached a zipfile containing the STL file.Regards,Jay_Diddy_BHP_6012A_Bus_Cover.zip(68.24 kB - downloaded 248 times.)

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 07:53:31 pm
content: Hi,I am going to share another output cover. This is a replacement for the HP 0360-2191.This part was used on the following products:6023A, 6028A, 6033A, 6038A6541A, 6542A, 6543A, 6544A, 6545A6551A, 6552A, 6553A, 6554A, 6555A6641A, 6642A, 6643A, 6644A, 6645A6651A, 6652A, 6653A, 6654A, 6655A6811A, 6811B, 6812A, 6812B, 6813A, 6813B6841A, 6842A85108L,85301A-E91E3784AE4350B, E4351BE6187A, E6188AE6242A, E6248AIn many case these covers are missing.Original PartPhotographsI chose to modify the design slightly, so it works better with my 6654A power supply.I printed this in PETG.I have attached a zipfile containing the STL file.Regards,Jay_Diddy_BOutput cover JDB.zip(37.22 kB - downloaded 264 times.)

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 08:16:30 pm
content: Hi group,One more bus bar cover. This is the HP 5040-1626. This cover was used on the following units:6010A, 6011A, 6012B, 6015A6030A, 6031A, 6032A, 6035AOriginal CoverIn this case I have one of the original parts that I was able to measure:Printed PartThe the cover was designed in Fusion 360. Here is a photograph of the printed part:It takes about 7 hours to print on my Flashforge Dreamer.It installs on the power supply with three M4 x 12 screws:I have attached a zipfile containing the STL file.There is an updated version here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/msg3286082/#msg3286082Regards,Jay_Diddy_BHP 6012B bus JDB.zip(72.35 kB - downloaded 243 times.)

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2020, 08:28:18 am
content: Quote from: Jay_Diddy_B on October 12, 2020, 07:53:31 pmI beat you to it,although I haven't printed mine yet, it's more an exact copy from the original to be modified as needed, no guarantees on printability...https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4122457

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2020, 04:00:45 pm
content: Quote from: TERRA Operative on October 13, 2020, 08:28:18 amI don't believe it counts unless you post it on the EEVblogI have printed yours. Here are some photographs:This from the slicer, showing how I printed the part including the supports and the brim.I printed it in PETG with 40% fill.This is the part still in the printer, cooling down.The finished part weighs 13g.By comparison, my part weighs 17g. It is slightly bigger and has a larger wall thickness.Here are the two parts side by side. Mine has thicker webs to increase the strength. The NFM design is true to the original.[ Specified attachment is not available ]The original design and NFM's is probably better for the HP 6033A. My modified design is probably better for the HP 6654A etc. It is because the large slots line up better.Regards,Jay_Diddy_B

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2020, 12:29:39 am
content: Oh nice. How's the wall strength on the one I designed? Easy to break or strong enough?I think yours would be more practical in daily use due to the added strength. Mine is more a base design to modify from or for 'purists' hahaha.

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2020, 12:55:52 am
content: Quote from: TERRA Operative on October 14, 2020, 12:29:39 amIn PETG they are both okay. In PLA the larger webs are probably better.It takes about 2.5 hours to print. I am reluctant to break one.Jay_Diddy_B

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2020, 07:29:56 pm
content: Hi,Group here is a new version of the HP 5040-1626. I have fixed a flaw in the file that I shared earlier. There was a very small gap at the location shown in this photograph:I have closed the gap and added a fillet.The new file is attached.Regards,Jay_Diddy_BHP 6012B bus JDB v6.zip(91.48 kB - downloaded 237 times.)

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2020, 08:06:29 pm
content: Hi,I am going to share the files for a pair covers for the Sorensen DCS series power supply. They will probably also fit the Xantrex XKW power supplies.Input CoverWith no cover.With the 3D printed cover. Printed in PETG.Output CoverMake sure that your power supply has the anchor points shown in the photo.Cover installed on a unit:I have attached a zipfile containing the STL files.Regards,Jay_Diddy_Bsorensen.zip(53.26 kB - downloaded 423 times.)

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2020, 12:11:42 am
content: Hi group,I am going to share the STL files for some feet for the Keithley 2001 DMM. These parts will probably fit other Keithley products.I did not have an original, so I went on eBay looking for good photographs:I then designed the replacement parts in Fusion 360:3D PrintingPETG at 40% density was used for the hard plastic part.TPU at 80% density was used for the rubber part and the front foot.The rear feet are attached with 6-32 x 0.25" panhead screws.I have attached a zipfile with the STL files.Regards,Jay_Diddy_Bkeithley 2001.zip(155.9 kB - downloaded 459 times.)

author: uski
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2020, 04:13:46 am
content: A long time ago I made a power button cap for my Tektronix TDS2024 oscilloscope :https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1426499

author: nuno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2020, 03:51:36 pm
content: I made these oscilloscope tip covers for my Rigol probes, I don't know if that's the name, I just call it that.When I needed to probe tight places and assembled a cover, it usually made my life more difficult because the standard ones make the probe diameter larger and I always ended up bumping into something or not fitting the place, so I stopped using them. And they're also easy to loose, of course. Then I designed this slicker one. What do you think? The one in attach is for Rigol RP2200 probes (DS1104Z, probably the others too).They're a bit tricky to print (at least for me), but doable. Depends on your slicer. This is designed to use the spiral mode, and I print it at 0.12mm Z step with a 0.4mm nozzle. In some slicers it helps to put the number of bottom and top layers to zero.Here, with more info and design files:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4669269. They are parametric, so you just need OpenSCAD and change some measurements in a file to fit your probes; I can help with that if needed.

author: mnementh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2020, 09:13:43 pm
content: I recently received a UTG962E Arb as a Christmas present from my wife; I got it because it is designed to fit in that space under a scope's chin when it sits up on the bail. Unfortunately, the bail on my 54645A has angle settings which are pretty much exactly wrong to produce that wedge-shaped space; and putting the Arb behind the bail makes it a PITA to use.So, I designed and printed a wedge base to get just the right angle, while opening up all that space under the beast.This wedge raises the 54645A up 90mm at a point just behind the front feet of the scope; I put rubber feet underneath which add another 5mm. It does not block any airflow out of the 'scope; in fact, it directs the scope's air exhaust right towards the vented back of the UTG962E to keep air moving through.The nice thing, aside from the fact it keeps the UTG962E tucked neatly out of the way yet the front clear for use... is I actually gain almost 6 inches of clear space in front of the scope on top of my cart due to not having the bail jutting out.This base should work with all 546xx family scopes and any that have the same 11.5" x 8.5" / 297mm x 214mm rectangular pattern with 28mm x 28mm feet; for comparison against other models, the space from front edge of the wedge to front edge of foot pocket is 159mm, and the top surface footprint is 207mm x 300mm, while bottom footprint is 196mm x 300mm. Foot pockets are 29mm x 29mm x 11mm deep.I've attached the .stl files as a zip; my print settings were: CR6-SE printer, BLACK PLA, Default Temps of 200°C/60°C, 0.28mm LH, 20% Infill Cubic pattern, 1.2mm walls, 0.8mm top/bottom, Brim adhesion, Only on Outside, 2mm wide, with Brim Distance at 0.2mm to make Brim easy to separate.EDIT: Supports ONLY on LEFT side, as RIGHT side has no overhangs. Top/bottom pattern set to Concentric for appearance.Cura estimates ~13 hours print time per half, with ~155grams filament at a cost of $3-4.50 per half at $20-30/2.2Kg roll, so ~$6-9 total cost and ~26 total hours.Enjoy,mnem

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2020, 11:59:00 pm
content: I'm beginning to warm up to 3d printing....

author: mnementh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2020, 04:13:35 pm
content: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4589796mnem

author: mnementh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2021, 05:23:54 pm
content: Bench Stand for FLUKE 189 & 87/IV DMMThis is what I've been doodling around with the last couple days... a properly rigid bench-use stand for my Fluke 189 that incorporates a lead holder. This unit snaps in place of the molded rubber test-lead keeper usually found on the back of these meters; it does not interfere with the original flip-out stand in any way. The idea was to have all my most-used accessories and the leads all tidy and right there when I need them. The design scope was:A) Easy to print: Stand base is designed to print flat on its back, while both parts make heavy use of gradual tapers and curves; this means they print well without supports as long as you have Bridging Mode enabled and rotate the part to present areas that need bridging best to the fan. Any stringing caused by printing without supports tends to be much easier to clean up than the mess left behind by supports.B) Easy to use: Once assembled, entire unit snaps in/out easily. The oversized back disc serves a purpose; it makes it easy to loop the wires over the groove one-handed and the optional wire across the middle allows similar one-handed clipping of favorite alligator leads up to 24" long as well as IC grabbit leads. Reliefs in the stand serve to keep loose alligator wires from causing trouble, and magnets in the pockets keep the screw-on alligators in place.2) Minimal BOM: Aside from ~150g filament, all you need is (2) 10mm neodymium disc magnets and some ~8mm round dowel, tube or rod approx 300mm long. I found this closet widget which can yield 5 segments of straight tubing 285mm long for $2 at the local Dollarama. Magnets are glued in with epoxy or CA gel.Same epoxy, CA gel or hot-glue can be used on the tube sockets at final assembly; the entire assembly lies flat which makes it easy to get it all perfectly square. Hot-glue has added benefit of being easy to undo; just hit the tube with hot-air gun and it'll come right apart.C) Easy assembly: The stand base snaps into the Hanger accessory slots on back of the Fluke 189; one side has a deep tab that fits precisely, while the other side that snaps in is designed a little too thick so you have to sand/trim with a knife to get it to snap in just right.E) Better with Upgrades: 1mm holes at 90° angle for the wire are part of the model; tin-plated steel mechanic's wire or the center core from a scrap of CATV R6 works well here. Push through the hole, pull tight then melt-embed in the plastic with a hot soldering iron. Cut wire flush with nippers, then pot hole from iron with epoxy. If you can't be arsed, 1mm hole is easy to ignore. If you just want the base, I've got multiple versions with no hole in the top.EDIT: A quick Update to add a generic adapter for the IR ModuleA fellow member asked aboot a mount for the Fluke IR Module... and in researching, I found that there were a lot of folks in here who'd rolled their own IR Datalogging adapters as well as looking for the bracket for the OEM IR module. To help out, I've designed this little adapter to fit the Rev2.2 Stand with hole for 8mm shaft. It provides a 30mm x 50mm flat plate you can attach your OEM IR Module or your DIY module to with double-faced foam mounting tape or adhesive-backed Velcro strips.It is bundled together with the correct version of the meter stand in the 2nd zip file below.For strength, both parts should be printed 0.20-0.16LH, laying flat on largest flat surface (back of Meter Stand, front face of IR Adapter bracket), and with infill set to yield a grid pattern with 1-1.5mm spacing. Both parts will print well with no supports.Cheers!mnem

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2021, 05:38:36 pm
content: I drew up the rear foot to suit the 2445/2465 family of Tektronix scopes.I haven't printed it yet, but it should be 99% accurate.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4726857

author: mnementh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2021, 01:52:40 am
content: Noice! I'll probably actually print that one too, once I have my 2465s back from deep storage stateside.mnem

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2021, 12:48:17 am
content: I haven't tried it myself yet, let me know how you go!

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2021, 09:25:59 pm
content: Here is a battery compartment cover for an OK Electronics Model 402 Digital Thermometer. One of my favorite tools. The battery cover has been missing for years. Battery covers are tricky to model, finicky on dimensions. To get the tabs on the end right it is best to print this with the tabs pointing up, using an island for adhesion and full support. Zip file contains FreeCAD model and .stl file ready to slice and print.

author: mnementh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2021, 09:14:33 pm
content: Not exactly test equipment... but gear a great many of us have to deal with nonetheless. The Hitron CODA series is probably the single most popular DOCSIS3.1 MODEM/Gateway in service right now. Every ISP seems to be using them.One of the big PITA issues is that they have a slight overheating problem; while designed for vertical implementation, they still have problems with dropouts that you can read about in oodles of media site threads. Any old 5-12V fan plugged into the USB port and aligned so it makes the air move across the thing even a little seems to resolve the issue; this is something I proved to myself in our last location.Here, I needed to be able to stick the thing under my desk, but it simply is too tall. So, a cheap 120mm PC case fan and some feet were in order. The 120mm/12V case fan running on 5V draws minuscule current, and runs slow enough to be absolutely silent, while still actively pulling plenty of air through the unit.The fan bracket is a slight friction fit on the pegs, which are offset to match the pattern of the vents in the body of the Hitron CODA. The pegs on the feet snap in positively; feet raise the unit ~18mm off the floor.Both parts print well without supports as long as you have Bridging Mode enabled and rotate the part to present areas that need bridging best to the fan. Any stringing caused by printing without supports tends to be much easier to clean up than the mess left behind by supports.Feet take ~13min/2grams each to print with infill set to 2mm grid. Fan bracket takes ~58 minutes/8 grams at same settings.Note that turning this unit on its side tends to refocus the WiFi propagation pattern; it is best to locate this unit on an outer wall or corner with the original bottom (end with rubber feet) facing the wall.mnem

author: cowasaki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2021, 12:03:17 am
content: Just in case anyone wants to hang their Peak Atlas testers on the wall I have created 3D printable wall brackets.The brackets are in twos or fours but they go together so you could print 3x twos for six in a line or a two and a four for 2x3 etcUploaded to thinyverse for storage.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4741886

author: aargee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2021, 05:32:15 am
content: Hello all,(Posted in the main Test Equipment group but also posted here as it fits this thread too. Thanks for the suggestion, Tautech)I've modified my HOPI meter to make it a bit safer (in my opinion) and give it a three-pin AUs GPO socket. I used a 3D-Printed adaptor block and a Jaycar panel-mount socket, I also removed the speaker terminals.Details herehttp://www.engineershed.com/3D Model herehttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4744289- Rob (yes, absolutely crap at keeping an up-to-date website.)

author: quadtech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2021, 10:53:56 am
content: Tek 465 Scope - AC/DC Input Coupling - does anyone know what the conical rubber top is called,and any source for the replacement? TIA!like the one here -

author: dl6lr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2021, 01:25:49 pm
content: Quote from: quadtech on February 26, 2021, 10:53:56 amThis may fit:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4776292

author: dl6lr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2021, 01:38:52 pm
content: Tektronix YT-1S chart recorderprinter knob.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4776301

author: Fuzzy Star
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2021, 02:39:46 pm
content: Quote from: dl6lr on February 26, 2021, 01:25:49 pmQuadtech, if that is a blade switch, like dl6lr posted you can search "blade switch knob" and find knobs like these:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32795643601.htmlhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/32793502264.html

author: Michael YYZ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2021, 09:59:26 pm
content: Would anyone have any idea about where I could get a front case + selector button for a Wavetek 2020 DMM? Not only the plastic travel limiters are broken - and the button rotates 360 degrees freely - but also the centre sleeve of the button has cracked and the button slides off the meter easily.It’s a rather rare meter, but one that I’ve been very fond of. It still works, despite the issues, but I’d be very happy if I could fix / replace the case and the rotary button.Thank you.

author: Michael YYZ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2021, 10:31:51 pm
content: My DMM (the one in the middle). ❤️

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2021, 04:50:58 pm
content: Safety cover for Tektronix 576 curve tracer. This cover keeps your fingers away from dangerous voltages, and triggers the interlock allowing those voltages to be applied. The original is clear, apparently so that you can see the warm glow of an overheated transistor, but the opaque printed version keeps light out of packages that allow semi-conductors to be photosensitive. If you miss the opportunity of watching transistors melt you can always bodge in a plexiglass window.ZIP file is model in FreeCAD format and stl format. Some may want to modify for taller cover.

author: ch_scr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2021, 06:48:45 am
content: Front breakouts for Keithley 2600 SMU. Flat or with feet, mirrored or same layout L/R. Uses "Hirschmann PK 10 A" binding posts.More info, files & discussion:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/keithley-2600-front-breakout/

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2021, 01:00:28 am
content: Switch shaft extension as used in the Fluke 341A and Fluke 343A DC Calibrators, and also in some other products too I think.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4824180

author: belzrebuth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2021, 11:53:20 am
content: Has anyone found a suitable replacement for the switch caps used in HP 3312A?I see those broken all the time and sure enough two of mine are also broken as well.I have similar switch caps in my 5316A counter and I'm sure they should fit other HP instruments of this era..They look like in the photo below.HP part numbers are :WHITE : 0370-0604LIGHT GREY : 0370-0668GREY : 0370-2781

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2021, 08:44:42 am
content: Hi,I purchased a TDK Lambda GENH series power supply from eBay. One of the two knobs was missing. They are simply pushed on and there is no real retention mechanism.I used Fusion 360 to create a model of replacement. I printed the replacement in white PLA.I reduced the number of bumps on the outside to get a better print.ReplacementEdit: Here is a picture showing an original and the 3D printed part:The same knob is used on Lambda GEN and ZUP series power supplies.I have attached the files.Regards,Jay_Diddy_Blambda knob.zip(408.63 kB - downloaded 323 times.)

author: dl6lr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2021, 10:13:47 am
content: I got a Rohde&Schwarz BOL (rebranded National VP-5512A) with a broken rear foot. So I designed a replacement to be printed.This is somehow simplified to the original molded one. The scad file is ugly hacked together without parameters.It can be printed without supports by laying it flat on the bed on the slanted side.Just add an adhesive rubber bumper if you want.The second one tries to imitate the original corrugated design. I haven't printed it yet.Can be found at Thingiverse:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4966337

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2021, 05:49:52 pm
content: Does anyone know where I can find a replacement frequency knob for my HP 339A Distortion Measurement Set? Can some one here make one for me? I temporarily installed an old hp knob but have to count the turns since it does not have a numbered 1-10 skirt. Thanks in advance!

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2021, 03:57:58 am
content: Here is a fairly often broken part that isn't available anymore. The cooling fan impeller for a Tektronix 2465 Oscilloscope and its matching collet.The fan can be printed bottom down without support. The collet should be printed thin side down with a raft for adhesion. Density isn't too important for the impeller, but the collet should be printed at high density.The collet needs a stud in the end, with matching nut. You can use SAE or Metric as is your preference. Printing the collet at high density allows for drilling and tapping to match your choice, though it should be possible to melt it in with care to get it straight.The original part uses a metal reinforcing ring at the top of the shaft. That ring could be salvaged from a broken part, but many won't have that part or the ability to fabricate the ring so this design settles for adding more plastic in this area. Would greatly complicate the mold if that were how this part was going to be made, but not an issue for 3D printing. This will probably fail after a decade or two of use, but that is just time to print another.The picture shows that I don't go for perfect finish on my functional parts, but it works fine and is completely hidden under the back cover of the scope.Those who can't or don't want to print their own can message me and we'll work something out.SEE LATER POST FOR CORRECTED (IMPROVED) MODEL

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 10, 2021, 07:18:44 am
content: I don't have a 2465 but I'm printing one of these anyway because it is so cool

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2021, 03:42:14 pm
content: If you were to put a 45 degree chamfer under that overhang where the metal ring would sit, it will help prevent dags hanging down as seen in the photo.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2021, 05:27:16 pm
content: Quote from: TERRA Operative on November 10, 2021, 03:42:14 pmI have better luck with fillets than the chamfer and this was intended to have a fillet at that joint. Went back and found that the fillet was missing. Attached are the corrected models.Thank you for taking the time to look closely. I hadn't noticed the error before, because for my purposes it was "gootenuf".

author: Matsh
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 15, 2021, 03:03:18 pm
content: If you need knobs printed I can help with the Print-out on a Form 2 printer.

author: dl6lr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2021, 04:41:48 pm
content: -hp-1744A storage scope (and many others):Mine lost a pushbutton, especially the one for AUTO-STORE in the upper left corner. So I removed one of the others, took the dimensions and made a somehow similar design.Printed in PLA with 0.1mm layers and slightly sanded, it is a press-fit to the switch. With a SLA printer you may want to recalculate with more facets to have a smoother finish (beware, will take ages to calculate).https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5141182(Once again it is not showing any images yet...)OpenSCAD design file is included in the ZIP with the STL...

author: Le_Bassiste
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2021, 01:46:33 pm
content: tautech suggested to post this here: Feet for FLUKE 540B, and FLUKE343A, FLUKE 5450A and alike.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/chassis-feet-for-fluke-540b-and-fluke-343a/

author: dl6lr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2021, 03:54:59 pm
content: Vintagehptest equipment feet (i.e. 5245L, 5345A etc.)Those feet have a spring loaded pushbutton to install/release the feet. I redesigned a functional but simplified foot that can be installed from the inside only using a M2.5 8mm socket head cap screw (sorry, no idea what kind of imperial screw can be used). A button head can be used too.I already have an idea how a simple spring loaded push button could be made with standard parts, but springs that would fit are hard to find.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5142216STL and OpenSCAD file included in ZIP.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2021, 03:34:10 am
content: Rainy days made for several models.First for Tektronix 465 Oscilloscope (and probably several others in the series.)a. Bezel for the CRTb. Trigger level knobc. Trigger slope knobd. Horizontal positione. Fine horizontal positionI didn't have the original aluminum collars for these so designed them around standard set screw collars from McMaster-Carr. Part number 6432K71 for the trigger slope knob and the horizontal fine position knob and part number 6432K17 for the other two knobs. Unfortunately the inner diameter is not correct on these collars and must be drilled out to match. I also had to chase the set screw threads after drilling, YMMV. I used Gorilla Gel CA to mount the collars in the knobs, but there are many good adhesive choices.Also learned that the SC-504 knob core mentioned earlier in the thread works in the Tektronix 2230 and probably several others in that series. Included the stl here. There is another thread on the forum describing how to make the transparent skirt that has the gain legends.EnjoyBy the way these knobs were generated for the 475 shown. But I didn't have originals so they were patterned after 465 knobs that I did have.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2022, 12:23:17 am
content: Rigol DS1000Z replacement feet:The original feet have little detents to keep them open or closed and I believe the stress of these detents caused the feet to break. My replacement feet are smooth and don't have the detents. Because of this, I scraped off the small ridge on the case under each foot.I printed them with a fine layer height and 50% infill.Moved from 3D Printing topic

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2022, 11:37:31 pm
content: Replacement range button for Boonton Model 42A and similar models.These can be painted with glossy acrylic model paint if you wish, such as Tamiya X-1https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/acrylic-paint-mini-10ml/acrylic-mini-x-1-black/Use a toothpick to place the dot using white paint, such as Tamiya XF-2I'm posting some addendums, the first is showing what some final finishing can do for your 3D printed parts (mainly the parts that will show). I finished the button by sanding and priming (3 times). Then painting with Tamiya X-1 gloss black. I made the dot with Tamiya XF-2 flat white. The 3D finished button is on the left and the original right. It's nearly impossible to tell which is which once installed and the front bezel in place.So just some finishing to your part, if it's one that needs to be "museum quality" can make a huge difference.

author: masterx81
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2022, 09:55:16 pm
content: Anyone know a place where find this safety banana plugs?Thanks!

author: BmaxTom
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2022, 02:45:25 pm
content: Housing for Leo Bodnar's fast risetime pulse generator -->https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/yet-another-fast-edge-pulse-generator/Printed it with a layer height of 0.1mm and infill grid pattern with a density of 33%. I attached the cover with a little bit of super glue.

author: BmaxTom
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2022, 04:02:52 pm
content: Siglent housing spacer for e.g. SDM3065X and SDG2042X.Printed it with a layer height of 0.2mm and infill gyroid pattern with a density of 25%.

author: Peter_O
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2022, 10:15:55 am
content: Usually I mount 38mm 'adam hall' rubber feet with a printed plastic nut. In case it falls off inside the device, it will cause no problems.My new old HP6653A power supply does not have a bottom cover plate, but the chassis itself is the bottom. So it would be a lot of dismounting to place a nut inside.So I'm back to HP's hook and lock system.The avaiable print models copy the plastic spring locking of the original.As prints often do not reach that level of plastics quality and precision I was not conviced and scribbled another solution:The locking is done by a locking plate with konical cotters and is fastened by a screw.On top is a furrow to allow pliers to grab and pull out the locking plate.On top of that I mounted the usual rubber feet to save table tops or other device covers.The front alignment key part of the HP feet is not that important for me. I place to 4mm threaded holes in the front of the feet, but obviously this was not planned to the end.Anyhow, for me, it does the job for now.You can find the STLs without the front holes in the zip file attached as well as on thingiverse:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5352112.

author: andrejr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2022, 11:13:34 pm
content: If someone needs a replacement button for a Gould Delta 9500A, I've 'drawn' one in OpenSCAD, printed it and it works fine. The STL, scad (in the 7z) and image files are attached: in the image, the "Print" button is printed, the others are original.This same kind of button is also used on all Gould Classic series scopes, and a bunch of Nicolet scopes, such as the Nicolet Integra series.

author: Peter_O
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2022, 09:56:45 am
content: A printed button for the "print" function. Nice.

author: mnementh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2022, 05:21:43 pm
content: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SP54HNW/Just a quick heads-up; I found these on slAmazon while hunting stick-on feet for a particular project. They look to me like a good generic substitute for the OEM feet on many different models of TE. At $6/doz, pretty reasonable too.Cheers!mnem

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2022, 05:24:27 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on January 01, 2022, 12:23:17 amThanks for those, I snapped a foot off the other day - terrible design. Now replaced both with the last few metres of some purple PETG. I left the ridge in place as it provides a nice bit of drag to keep the feet from flopping about.

author: SoundTech-LG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2022, 06:58:51 pm
content: Still in-stock just ordered some!

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2022, 10:57:53 pm
content: The attached zip file has a FreeCAD parametric model for knobs found on equipment from the late 1930's to the 1950's. Also included are brief instructions on how to use it, and an stl file for a knob resembling those used on Muirhead decade boxes. Unfortunately I couldn't make it fully automatic, so some fiddling is required, but it can generate a wide range of sizes and patterns. Enjoy.

author: calin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2022, 03:02:45 am
content: Here is my small button for Lecroy WavePro 7300A . SCAD model and STL attached.Note: Updated the archive as somehow was corrupted

author: dl6lr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2022, 06:28:16 am
content: Quote from: BmaxTom on March 13, 2022, 04:02:52 pmMay I ask what design you have used to print the BNC caps? I assume you have printed them, being the same color as the spacer...

author: BmaxTom
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2022, 07:37:18 am
content: BNC Dust Cap.Printed it with a layer height=0.16mm, shells=3 and infill density=25%.

author: BmaxTom
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2022, 07:46:13 am
content: Ethernet Dust Cap.Printed it with a layer height=0.1mm, shells=2 and infill density=25%.

author: dl6lr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2022, 02:07:44 pm
content: Quote from: BmaxTom on September 02, 2022, 07:37:18 amThank you. Just tested, they had too tight fit with my prints. I measured the STL indicates 9.8mm inner diameter, but my prints came with 9.55mm inner diameter, outer diameter was fine. Had to scale up a little.

author: DavidKo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2022, 06:15:01 am
content: I have created new power button for Advantest devices. I have measured the original button from TR6143 to replace my missing button on R7210.The source CATPart and STL can be found onthingverse.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2022, 07:42:07 pm
content: Inhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/msg2318376/#msg2318376I posted a model for HP 5040-7201 feet. I recently had need to print some and found that errors in the model existed that my prior slicer didn't catch and there were some dimensional problems which made trimming and fitting necessary. The attached zip file contains the corrected stl file, the corrected model in FreeCAD format, and a crude model of the wire bail foot associated with the plastic part. The bail is pretty easy to bend up from 0.125 inch steel wire, but if you don't have at least one existing foot it is helpful to have dimensions and angles.My apologies for the poor item naming in the model and the crudeness of both. This poor EE is still a rank newbie at solid modelling.Also note that these feet are still available commercially. Printing them is only necessary if you want other colors or have other reasons for printing.

author: AVGresponding
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2022, 09:46:56 pm
content: The main reason for printing your own is the satisfaction you get from not having to pay (since anyone printing them already has the printer and filament). Thank you for taking the time and effort to update your design.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2022, 03:54:16 am
content: This isn't quite a perfect fit for this, but I found it useful when doing the stuff in this thread.I needed a new front and rear bezel for one of my instruments. The old one was fragmenting rapidly, already in a dozen or more pieces. Unfortunately the bezel is larger than the build volume of my printer, so it needed to be printed in parts. And it was desirable to have built in alignment and features for a strong bond joint between the parts. The two models attached form this function and also give the basic idea for those who need to split even larger assemblies.The basic procedure is to place the target part model within the volume of the right and left splitter. Make a copy of the target model and then use your CAD program to do the AND or COMMON process between the original and the left splitter and the copy and the right splitter. The two results can then be printed and then bonded together with the appropriate adhesive.I am sure this idea is so obvious to some here that it isn't worth posting, but it took me a while to come up with a nice general solution and there may be others as slow as I am.

author: minifloat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 09:33:09 am
content: For everyone who wants to make a Tektronix 1103 probe supply clone:3D models attached for the shroud of the TekProbe interface.'Made 'em for thishttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tek-p5205-hv-differeantial-probe-teardown-btw-what-are-the-red-and-brown-wires/msg4610551/#msg4610551"Hacktronix" device.br, mf

author: hpw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2023, 08:52:59 am
content: After long FreeCad trial and understanding as in addition required 3D printing cycles too... I have it nowbut as 3D printing with matching colors is still an issue as it looks not availableBTW: it is for LeCroy 6000, 7000, 8000 models..Hp

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2023, 11:08:36 am
content: Quote from: hpw on May 19, 2023, 08:52:59 amGood work, but for color we sometimes need to usehigh qualitymodel paint, such as Tamiya (flat or gloss), to get a closer color match.Tamiya Paint

author: ZigmundRat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2023, 12:38:03 pm
content: Looks like a nice fit. Can you please share files here? Thx.

author: KeBeNe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2023, 01:43:18 pm
content: Hi,as I am restoring an R&S SMIQ, I needed the potentiometer knobs for the LCD.I created them in Inventor 2021, step file is also included.Printed with a resin 3D printer.

author: RAQU_PL
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2023, 08:21:54 pm
content: Front panel for Agilent PSU E3648A and for the rest of the line.Minor inaccuracies may exist.If anyone is interested i have .ipt file, but it is too large to upload here.

author: dazz1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2023, 08:26:26 am
content: HiAs part of a mod to replace the factory original high flow high noise fan on a HP 54600 series oscilloscope, I made some clip-on front feet risers to provide more space, and more air flow for the very low noise, lower flow Noctua fan I fitted.I designed and 3D printed two spacer feet that simply slide over the factory molded front feet and lock in place. The feet lift the scope a few millimeters to increase the space for exhaust cooling air to escape. The only exit for cooling air is a grill in the base of the enclosure.Others have done the Noctua fan mod without raising the oscilloscope, so the feet mod is definitely optional with questionable and unmeasured benefit. I could have done a before and after measurement of fan current to detect a change in air flow, but I didn't.As always, I try and make my mods look like they are factory made. The new feet are close to the factory colour so it is not obvious the feet are fitted. No screws, no holes, no modifications to the enclosure and all completely reversible. The feet just slide on and lock into place. They will not slide off with just lateral force (ie. normal use).I included a shallow relief in the foot for gluing on a piece of rubber roofing material. The rubber will provide some extra grip and reduce noise transmission by at least a few femtodecibles.Just in case someone wants to do the same mod, I have also attached the 3D file of the design. I printed with PETG.On a scale from brilliant to useless, this mod definitely leans to the useless side, but I got to design and make something. Fitting the Noctua fan was definitely a good thing to do. The fan is barely audible.

author: Ice-Tea
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2023, 04:52:23 pm
content: Anyone know how to get a 3D model for one of these?

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2023, 05:13:59 pm
content: I am sure you have tried a search of the internet for the .stl or .step or .iges file format using the Manufacturer and Model number of the instrument this came from. This works if either the manufacturer has released their design files to the internet, or if someone else needed the part, modeled it and donated the result. My personal success rate in these searches is low, but it works often enough to be worth the attempt.You have several options if that fails. Find a local engineering firm and contract them to make the model (expensive and slow). Or find a nearby student or hobby person willing to to do it for free (maybe at a maker space or local electronics club meeting). Or get micrometer and calipers and make detail measurements of the part and post it them here with a plea for someone to turn them into a model. Identifying what this came from may help in getting interest in doing this. Or purchase/rent/borrow one of the 3D scanners, generate a point cloud of the part and use associated software to turn it into a model. I don't think this approach would be very successful on this part because of the small size and potentially the need to duplicate internal geometry on the base of the part.Or you can get one of the free modeling programs, and learn to do it yourself. Fusion 360, FreeCad, Blender and others are among the most popular programs. Learning FreeCAD and doing this on my first knob, an item not too dissimilar to your part only took a few days. This approach is beneficial in implementing the corrective iterations that are almost always needed in this type of project. It is almost impossible to get the measurements for some of the critical dimensions so a bit of cut and try is often needed.

author: Ice-Tea
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2023, 08:37:14 am
content: Thanks. Yes, I've searched the net and Thingiverse. It would seem I've found a forumite willing to lend a hand ;-)All my attempts to get into something like FreeCad have failed. At some point I realise I'll never "really" be good at it and I don't need another skill that I "kinda" can do ;-)

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2023, 03:37:40 pm
content: Quote from: Ice-Tea on October 04, 2023, 08:37:14 amI would encourage you to give another try to FreeCad. I won't pretend that I am doing modeling right. My sons, who both do mechanical modeling professionally sneer at my efforts, but doing simple things comes fairly easy. And even "kinda" doing like I do has proved extremely useful. Having a specific project aids me tremendously in learning, you may find it the same. When I run into a block trying to accomplish something I look for an Online tutorial and it is usually cleared up quickly.Basically your knob appears to be a truncated cone with a hollow square rod for attachment to whatever it is going on to. Using the Parts Workbench these are canned shapes.A big aid can be if you can figure out the manufacturer of the switch or pot this knob attaches to (or a similar product). These 3D files are much more readily obtainable, and can be subtracted from a simple knob model to get the attachment right.Why don't you post some key measurements of your knob (diameter at top and bottom) and measurements of the base. I (or somebody more competent) might get motivated to do at least a rough model to get you started.As another path, you might search this forum and eBay for the instrument that this knob comes from. On eBay you might find a non-working one sold for parts that meets your budget, while on the forums you might find someone who has a parts donor.Finally, if your need is only for functionality and you don't care about appearance you can take some scrap plastic and with a drill, some jewelers files and an exacto knife carve something that does the job. I have done this on a couple of occasions.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2023, 01:14:46 am
content: Actually the attached file should give you a start. It is a parameterized version of a knob similar to yours. You can plug appropriate dimensions into it and get something pretty close. This is a quick and dirty job, so no error checking or anything. 18 flutes is the max allowed value and it will let you foul up just about any dimension.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2023, 02:38:48 am
content: The previous discussion reminded me of a knob file I posted elsewhere, which should also go here. It allows you to generate knobs similar to those popular on radios and test equipment in the 1930 to 1950 time period. Just adjust parameters on the spreadsheet page and it will give a wide variety of knobs. The screen capture shows one example of what you can generate. Somewhat better instructions are included in the zip file.

author: syzygy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2023, 05:42:09 pm
content: I thought I'd contribute how I sourced replacement feet for several of our Tek TDS scopes a few years back, because the Tek P/N was difficult to find for less than $20:[ I'm cheap ]Original Parts, Tek P/N 348-1703-00 (broken & whole), and 'Replacements':

author: KG7AMV
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2023, 06:12:19 pm
content: Quote from: DaJMasta on May 12, 2019, 04:24:26 amThank You, Printed Some Fit Great...https://www.stevenrhine.com/?p=132208

author: KeBeNe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2023, 03:25:06 pm
content: Since I needed the rear device feet for a PSL-3 from Rohde Schwarz and only had one, I created a new one. (Inventor .ipt + stp files in the zip)In case someone needs it.

author: BlownUpCapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2023, 08:05:03 pm
content: Tektronix 22xx series Power cable wrapping holder... thingy... I don't know what they are called. Used them on my Tek 2230 and they work well. The design could maybe be improved a little bit, but not by much I think.Tinkercad link here:https://www.tinkercad.com/things/amQ4XpQkk1r-tek-power-cable-standoffUpdate:The design has been enhanced. It is more structurally sound and stronger. The screw holes have also been enlarged for an easier fit.Download the enhanced version instead. It is in a txt format, but all you have to do is change it back to an STL and it'll work fine.Oct 19, 2024: Newer updates made. Added fillets and made it over-all much more similar to the original. File uploaded as a txt file. Rename it to a step file and all should work fine. This was made in onshape for those of you who want to know.https://cad.onshape.com/documents/d1d59af15a5a6fd574629103/w/f595091c78b25b4bdda1f7a3/e/3fef025c5d04cdd547a2d425?renderMode=0&uiState=67145f2752a9b256796219a9

author: RikV
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2023, 01:19:49 pm
content: On my HP5335A the stem of the power button was broken off. I will surely find a suitable power switch in my spares bin but the button cap is an other history. Anyone knows of a 3D printable version? HP part# is 5040-0201, it is square, about 9mm.

author: Kosmic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2023, 07:36:11 pm
content: I reproduced the feet of my Solartron 7081. Should technically also fit the 7071 7061 and others.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2023, 01:22:31 am
content: Quote from: RikV on November 17, 2023, 01:19:49 pmI'm in the same situation.I replaced the switch too and need a new button.I have another 5335A on the bench, so maybe I'll pull the button off that and draw up a 3D file soon.Stay tuned....

author: DavidKo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2023, 08:02:46 am
content: I have created for my Yokogawa WT130 rear and bottom foot. It will probably WTxxx power meter series and devices in same box.Rear footBottom foot

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 05:11:35 pm
content: I just drew up the rear foot/handle for my HP/Agilent 8648C, part number 08647-40003, and stuck it up on thingiverse too.I guess it'll fit some other instruments too.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6343540

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 04:21:19 pm
content: And a power button for the HP 5335A Universal Counter.I haven't checked fitment so some experimentation will be needed with the hole that fits over the plunger in the button, let me know how it goes.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6352529

author: ch_scr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2024, 09:21:27 am
content: After getting my hands on two IET Dekapot's, I've had to make new spacer disks to get the "index support" into proper position.The attached models are about the thickness of 2 or 3 of the spacer disks combined.If you have no spacers disks and want to use it stand-alone (no additional front panel thickness) the 6mm one should be just right.I've used the 4.2mm one with one spacer disk to the same effect.Your slicer should be able to scale each model in just the Z direction to an individual thickness.

author: Kosmic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2024, 11:44:32 pm
content: Prema 5017 foot.Use M3x6 screw.

author: scopeman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2024, 03:00:19 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 14, 2019, 10:38:14 amHello Bean,Any chance you could export the file in STEP also? I want to play with it in Alibre but it will not import Fusion360 files directly.Thanks,SamW3OHM

author: Kosmic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2024, 12:17:58 am
content: TPI 440 Tilt Stand.Printed at 0.2mm, 25% infill with PETG

author: Finnaaah
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2024, 12:32:34 pm
content: Knobs for the Array 3720A or any e-loads with the same posts.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2024, 04:40:34 pm
content: Whaaat whaaat.A complete reproduction front panel for a HP 8648 series function generator?Ok, here it is.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6518453

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2024, 08:36:30 am
content: Replacement BNC Lever for HP/Agilent/Keysight fixtures, will likely fit other brands of fixtures also, this one was specifically to repair a 16143B fixture for a 4338B milliohm meter.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6621348

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2024, 11:18:23 am
content: Replacement BNC Insulators / spacers from test fixtures such as the 16143B and others used by HP/Agilent/Keysight, this one was specifically to repair a 16143B fixture for a 4338B milliohm meter.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6621477

author: pac1085
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2024, 12:55:36 am
content: I made a replacement plastic piece for the Tektronix 576/577 curve tracer standard test fixture.https://www.printables.com/model/899528-tektronix-576-standard-test-fixture-plate/filesIt does not have the provisions for the HV interlock cover but they shouldn't be too hard to add if you want (the scad file is on the site)If you downloaded it before 6pm EST on 6/2/24, go back and get the V4 file, it has a bunch of issues fixed.I also made a replacement plastic ring for the offset mult pot:https://www.printables.com/model/907974-tektronix-576-offset-multiplier-mounting-ring

author: BlownUpCapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2024, 01:10:24 am
content: Handle hinge cap for Tektronix 300 series instruments. It won't fit the non-solid-state instruments though.300 series hinge cap.zip(17.54 kB - downloaded 80 times.)

author: BlownUpCapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2024, 03:15:57 am
content: Another Tek part:It is the mating adapter/fixture for the Tektronix 7000 series plug-ins. It does not have the sides trimmed, nor the PCB mater and the weird 4-hole thing on the top of the plug-in; does anyone know what that's for?It seemed to work well when I tested it.Edit: Here's the tinkercad link if you want to make a copy and edit ithttps://www.tinkercad.com/things/bED8Zr7AeYU-frantic-tekwork?sharecode=IwA8WfK7XQOEQItICEfu-1z1qo_RXW72k1FFY1q844EUpdate: Please seehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/msg5740165/#msg5740165for a better design and with the rest of the 7000 plug-in chassis.

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2024, 12:30:48 pm
content: Providing a link to a post in another thread for the THS710, 720, 730, 720a, 730a, 720P battery compartment cap. Not done by me. Post #411.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tek-ths720a-portable-scope-teardowndiscussion/400/Jon

author: sneily
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2024, 09:40:13 pm
content: Looking for a set of feet of the HP 3455A Voltmeter.So far my search is unsuccessful.Cheers!

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2024, 01:05:52 am
content: Quote from: sneily on September 10, 2024, 09:40:13 pmIt looks like you can use the standard HP clip-in feet like part number 5041-8801 etc.There may be a few part numbers for this style foot, they all should 'just fit'.

author: sneily
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2024, 03:35:34 am
content: Indeed,,thanks.I found other comments on this forum indicating there are numerous different part numbers for feet that will fit. This expands my search net considerably and I am now seeing some options available.Cheers!

author: DavidKo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2024, 03:57:58 am
content: It make sense. The older feet were darker "brown" with rubber on rear feet. Then the same feet was used for the front and back (without rubber). Last iteration is grey. But the mounting pattern is the same across HP equipment including computers.

author: sneily
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2024, 06:38:49 pm
content: I found a set of 4 on ebay of the proper color for my unit (brown or green). And this set includes two of the wire tilt-stands. So happy ending for me.By the way, for anyone interested, Keysight still manufactures these feet and tilt-stands and you can order new, directly from Keysight. Though I think they only supply gray ones (a dark gray and a light gray).Cheers

author: ch_scr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2024, 08:04:45 am
content: I've recently got a beat-up Yokogawa 7651 from Japan, hence the need for replacement rear bumper and rear feet.Since the forum doesn't like step files, I've put them in a zip. Please find them attached

author: BlownUpCapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2024, 07:56:26 pm
content: Tektronix TM500 series plug-in pull tab mechanism. This is the newer version that uses spring metal.STL file in txt format to get around forum restrictions. Change the file back to STL and it should work fine.Update: The 3D model has been revised. Previously v4 is now outdated. v6 is the new current version. Please download v6.The change was made to make the coupling mechanism between the pull tab and the latch release more tolerant.

author: BlownUpCapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2024, 08:08:18 am
content: Tektronix 7000 Series Basic Plug-in Chassis 3D model.https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9XErYBOUfeX-tektronix-7000-series-plug-inThe Plug-in top and bottom part basics are modeled after the 5000 series and TM500 series plug-ins but are just longer to fit the 7000 series. They are split into two parts to make 3D printing easier if need be. I've included the plastic bar and plastic lever that keeps the plug-in latched in in the 3D model. The design will probably be improved later. First thing to be added will probably be the latch release mechanism for the 7000 series.I have not included a 3D model because then it would be difficult to separate the other parts of it to 3D print. So I'll just add the tinkercad link for better freedom.The plug-ins seem to fit well in my 7613 so I see no problems. The current latch mechanism works but is still finicky.In its current state it can be used as a storage or plug-in bay filler.

author: BlownUpCapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2024, 07:31:52 am
content: New entirely revised Tektronix 7000 Series Basic Plug-in Chassis 3D modelI've recently started getting used to thebig boys'CAD software, I must say, onshape is much more powerful than Tinkercad.I recreated the entire model in onshape complete with the cutouts and latch release mechanism.I haven't 3D printed this one yet because I ran out of filament,so I can't fully guarantee that it works as expected. However, when it's assembled in CAD in the assembly tab, it looks exceptionally promising.The design can still be tweaked quite a bit more, but the one in onshape is much better than the Tinkercad one.This essentially renders my previous post obsolete.Here's the link for export and download. I think I set all the settings correctly. If I did something wrong, pls tell me:https://cad.onshape.com/documents/7ff07276d978bf63140884e3/w/fe9a9b18e05c0f1ebecf49cc/e/ab2e3b83565442349b529546?renderMode=0&uiState=67554b32ea294f114f0cd514Update: I managed to print it with the limited amount of filament I had. It works well. There needed to be a couple tweaks made sure, but not much at all. I am satisfied with its performance. I'll make the changes tomorrow.Update 2: I have finalized the design. I've modeled the new version of the latch release and it works much better than the old one. It should be under the tab "Newer Latch Bar". I can't see much room for improvement, so I'll leave it up to others to further improve it if they want.https://youtu.be/TlW2WiFqT5A?si=o7vByJ9nitqGL1hp

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2024, 03:12:33 pm
content: If anyone is looking to install a Gotek USB floppy disk emulator into their Tektronix TDS500, TDS600, or TDS700 series scope, use this part number: SFR1M44-DU26(Remove all jumpers EXCEPT J1)You'll also maybe need an adapter bracket if you have the wider type floppy disk drive, so here it is:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6871401And you'll also need an M2.5 x 10mm screw too.(Pictures are of the 'real' part, but you can see how it'll end up anyway).

author: BlownUpCapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2024, 07:38:31 pm
content: Bezel for 7000 series scopes. Won't fit all, but will fit most with standard CRT sizes ei 7904, 7613, 7633, 7623.Not perfect, but it appears to work very well for me. Actual fabrication of the bezel may pose difficulties. Maybe have a 3rd party make them? The geometry of the bezel poses challenges when 3D printing.https://cad.onshape.com/documents/075b491f935216a8c1b1c508/w/40a825f8aae556fa20ecf724/e/d18428833605b43239b2e818?renderMode=0&uiState=6761d2b1de567c5cb8c3e338

author: Martin72
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2025, 04:27:06 pm
content: Hi,If it doesn't fit here, let me know and I'll delete it:Hello,I am looking for a suitable handle for my Hioki 3540.The shape of the case and the handle receptacle look familiar, but I can't think of the right term to search for, at least I can't find anything.Any ideas where I could get it from?

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2025, 01:14:32 am
content: Quote from: Martin72 on January 05, 2025, 04:27:06 pmI took a screenshot of the handle receptacle and tried Google image search. It found the instrument you have, but no others it tried to match had the same star pattern. Maybe there aren't any others?

author: BlownUpCapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2025, 03:24:32 am
content: Quote from: Martin72 on January 05, 2025, 04:27:06 pmHi, maybe if you give me the inner and out diameter of the hold I can quickly design one for you. Doesn't look too hard to make in CAD. I have already made a potential fit, just need the specific dimensions now.I have attached a screenshot with drawings highlighting the dimensions I need.If possible, providing the shell thickness will also be useful.Dimensions in mm is preferred.

author: AVGresponding
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2025, 10:12:26 am
content: Quote from: Martin72 on January 05, 2025, 04:27:06 pmIt's similar, though not the same, as the Solartron 7150. I can't imagine that Hioki wouldn't make their own cases, though I guess it's possible it was also sold under another brand name as wellEDIT: A quick search shows they've sold Escort products under their own brand name

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 05:32:16 am
content: I made a replacement rotary switch standoff for the Fluke 720A and Fluke 750A, it probably fits other Fluke items too, this one is 20.8mm long.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6915565

author: BlownUpCapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 04:20:21 pm
content: Here I have some feet for the Tektronix 7000 series mainframes. I have included both polarities for the feet, right and left (or left and right depending on if you are looking from the front or back).https://cad.onshape.com/documents/4b6617036525a66a77628146/w/d47c5d3eb3ce438621c60860/e/e9ec7d4b98e91859e3fa4788?renderMode=0&uiState=678a796afb0a3a3e9e515d4cThe design is to be refined but it currently works just fine with no issues.Warning!: If you print this in PLA, ABS, or any non-high-friction material, it will not have the same amount of traction as the original feet. The original foot inserts were rubberized for better traction.

author: LorenzoDL
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2025, 08:22:26 am
content: I made some replacements for a fluke 45 that I repaired lately.Here the links and some photos:https://www.printables.com/model/1000276-fluke-45-power-button-extenderhttps://www.printables.com/model/1000267-fluke-45-back-plastic-bezel

author: DavidKo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2025, 09:42:51 pm
content: I made a new end for the Agilent 34410A push rod.https://www.printables.com/model/1320136-agilent-34410a-push-rod-repair

author: Shimonu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2025, 10:10:07 am
content: Quote from: DavidKo on June 06, 2025, 09:42:51 pmAwesome, I might need to do something similar with my Philips PM2528 as I've seen that the end of the rod is cracked. I've been trying to think about how I would do it and this seems pretty simple

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2025, 05:13:22 am
content: Here's the Amplitude knob for the late model Tektronix PG506 (and maybe PG506A? Not sure).I had it printed in standard white resin from PCBWay and it fits great. You'll just need to remove the aluminium collar from the old knob and superglue it in place. I just added the black line with a black marker.

author: madao
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2025, 04:39:15 pm
content: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6159453There is my drawing for HPAGKS 34970A rear bezel

author: Shimonu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2025, 09:36:25 pm
content: Made a replacement part for the Philips PM 6669 frequency counter. One of the rear feet, or bumper as I call it, is cracked and has been glued before. I thought I would give it a go as it didn't seem too complex.Shared it on Cults3D:https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/philips-pm6669-rear-bumper

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2025, 01:43:25 pm
content: Hi group,In this message:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/msg3256118/#msg3256118I shared a 3D printed version of an Agilent safety cover, 5040-1676AC Input Safety Cover, that fits several power supplies 6671A, 6672A, 6673A, 6674A, 6811A, 6811B, 6812A, 6812B, 6813A and 6813B.This is a modified version that I designed for use with my 6811B. It allows a standard IEC line cord to be used.Regards,Jay_Diddy_Bcover to IEC.zip(51.21 kB - downloaded 11 times.)

author: Shimonu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2025, 05:58:08 pm
content: Has anyone made tiling bales or just covers for the holes? I'm interested specifically for HP 3435B but I'm sure all the instruments using the same case would work.Otherwise I think that would be my next project.EDIT: Just saw someone asking about the same thing a few posts up but for a Hioki

author: james_a_craig
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 21, 2025, 10:32:59 am
content: Attached are (yet another set of) models for the feet for HP/Agilent/Keysight instruments that need the usual three-post feet. There's two flavours here, front and rear. A pretty good percentage of these instruments actually only shipped with front feet in all four positions; the difference is that front feet have a rigid lip to mate with the instrument below, whereas rear feet have a rubber pad to stop them slipping. You might also see a flip-out bail on the front feet, but both types have the slot for it.The models here have the same rubber pad slot as the originals, and will accept the original rubber pads. You can also just print a block (either rigid or TPU) to go in the slot and it'll do the same job. These feet match heights with the originals (or at least, not worn out originals!) so you can mix and match with those, too.I've also put these up on printables athttps://www.printables.com/model/1360388-replacement-hpagilentkeysight-foot(where I've also got the feet for the DSO-X2000/3000 series).

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 01:51:00 pm
content: Hi group,Here is a version of the HP Agilent Keysight 0370-3238 knob. This knob fits the 6mm D-shaped shafts found on the following power supplies:6541A, 6542A, 6543A, 6544A, 6545A, 6551A, 6552A, 6553A, 6554A, 6555A, 6571A, 6572A, 6573A, 6574A, 6575A,6632B, 66332A, 6633B, 6634B, 6641A, 6642A, 6643A, 6644A, 6645A, 6651A, 6652A, 6653A, 6654A, 6655A6671A, 6672A, 6673A, 6674A, 6675A,6680A, 6681A, 6682A, 6683A, 6684A,6811A, 6811B, 6812A, 6812B, 6813A, 6813B, 6834B, 6841A, 6842A,85108LE3784A, E4350B, E4351B, E4356A, E6187A, E6188A, E6189A, E6238A, E6242A, E6248AThe part was created used Fusion 360:The knobs installed on an Agilent 6811B AC Source:Regards,Jay_Diddy_B

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 03:32:54 am
content: Has anyone found the "ultimate" filament color for knobs and such for older equipment - we need a dirty beige or something. I can print a knob that is awesome in quality, but the color will generally give it away as 3D printed.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 03:47:03 am
content: Quote from: TheSteve on July 26, 2025, 03:32:54 amI have had one reel of filament that was a good match for Tektronics grey. But multiple attempts to buy another never matched the color. With enough money I'm sure you could buy a custom colored reel to your Pantone color spec, but I suspect enough is close to or into four digit territory.When I have cared enough I print all new knobs. Not matching adjacent instruments doesn't seem to matter as much. In other cases I have replaced similar knobs only (vertical channel knobs on an oscilloscope for instance).

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 01:57:44 pm
content: Hi group,The filament that I used for the Agilent 6811B knobs in this picture:Bambu Lab PLA Basic Gray, filament code: 10103The printer: Snapmaker J1SThese are the slicer settings:This filament isn't a good match for the original color, but it matches the color of text.Jay_Diddy_B

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 02:04:15 pm
content: Hi group,Here is another HPAK knob. This one fits a 0.25 inch round shaft. It is retained using a M3 x 3mm set (grub) screw.The STL file contains a 2.5mm hole for the set screw. After printing I tapped the hole with an M3 x 0.5 tap to create the thread.I have attached a zipfile.Regards,Jay_Diddy_Bknob 0_25.PNG(59.61 kB. 522x455 - viewed 180 times.)

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 02:07:24 pm
content: You don't have to find the exact color filament - you can paint the part to suit your needs. There are many colors of high quality model paint that will work very well.I attached a button I designed for a Boonton power meter. You can see the part as it comes off the build plate (except I already added a white dot on that one). Then the original knob and the finished 3D printed and painted part side-by-side. I primed and painted this part in gloss black, but you can choose the color paint you want.I put this part on the instrument and I would challenge anyone to tell if any of the buttons were not original.

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 08:04:25 pm
content: The Bambu grey is a good color and will certainly work with a bunch of equipment. Painting is always an option but I'd rather avoid it if possible. I printed a new knob for an 83732A in grey and white and both look out of place. I have a white knob sitting in some tea to dye it a darker color. I see I can buy a "bone white" PLA, that might be a good option for older equipment.

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2025, 01:58:48 am
content: I'm pretty pleased with the "bone white" PLA, it has that aged yellow look.I reworked a knob designed by DaJMasta to fit the 8373x series siggens.

author: lowimpedance
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2025, 03:10:27 am
content: After some searching found nothing for the TDS3000 series interface module cover, I came up with averybasic 'plug cover' to ..... well cover the empty slot on my 3000.It snaps in quite nicely using the centre catch for retention. For removal press down on the catch and use a small screwdriver etc to pick it out from the end !

author: the Chris
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2025, 10:40:22 am
content: Quote from: madao on June 21, 2025, 04:39:15 pmThanks for creating this. However, I also have one of the 34970A that needed a modified version of this to keep the metal braket in place. In addition, the metal cage holding the card inserts is a bit recessed and the opening for the screw in the model needs to end deeper for the screw to stick out sufficiently long enough to reach the metal cage.I reprinted a modified version of your STL and this fits fine. Are you interested to receive the modified version to copy thr changes over to your original model to create an alternative version for those who have the metal braket in place?Christian

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2025, 11:17:20 pm
content: Here is a parameterized model for knobs on a Iwatsu DS-8812 oscilloscope based on measurements by user Artag (See thread "Need a knob" in repair.The posted model generates the following knob.But by adjusting parameters a wide variety of useful knobs can be created.The model is in FreeCAD (Version 1.0.1) format. Number of ribs can be set from 1 to 12. The only things that can't be changed in the Params spreadsheet are the flllets on various edges. Changing these requires diving into the model.Have fun.