Budget desoldering guns- are there any good options for low level usage? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nightfire
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2022, 08:53:27 pm
content: Actually I am in the progress to really do my first project of renovating some old gear. This means recapping a PCB from the 1980s and probably having to de-solder some components like mosfets and diodes to check for correct operation and re-solder them later on, so I cannot leave some mess or burned ground there...As I also do this as a hobby, I like to have some decent quality tools, so that I would not have to buy twice in short time, but to be budget-friendly...Some proven solution seems to the the "Engineer SS-02" mechanical desoldering pump, that is available in germany for around 30 €€€.In parallel, on german amazon some "YIHUA 929D-V" desoldering iron is offeredhttps://www.amazon.de/Electric-Desoldering-Soldering-Shorter-Charging/dp/B09GV5B1SR/On ebay, some similar tools around 10-20 Euros are also available, that basically consist of a hollow soldering tip with a heater and a mechanical pump behind it.Question: Are there any experiences with them? Are the usable to desolder discrete components (no SMD) with a usage of maybe 100 solder joints in a quarter of a year?

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2022, 09:21:04 pm
content: I am happy with my Chinese hot air gun. It's either model 878 or 8878 I forgot which. Not too much money, fully adjustable, tips readily available, does nice work.

author: nali
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2022, 09:21:56 am
content: I bought a budget Duratool desoldering gun for home use similar to one that Dave reveiwed, and it works just fine for stuff like pin headers, connectors that sort of thing. In fact, I've just started work at a place which has a nice looking Pace sitting in the corner gathering dust, so I ordered some new filters and gave it a try - pretty useless in comparison.OK might just be the useage scenario, the boards in question have a mixture of SMT & THT and have solid internal power planes, and the Pace tip doesn't really have much thermal mass compared to my Duratool.

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2022, 05:07:41 pm
content: Desoldering is harder than making a new board, unless you accept a fairly high attrition rate of certain kinds of parts. I tried all the various cheap desoldering tools.. Not so great...I like using this foot pedal tool that I made myself to suck off the excess solder.. Its easier and more intuitive than the guns Ive tried..and much cheaper... It uses a bellows pump(sucking, not blowing) , some tubing and a glass bottle/stopper to catch the solder gunk... thats all.. Make sure you use glass and put some water in it. It would be an easy uograde to use an electric pump and foot switch.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2022, 06:00:00 pm
content: Look for a Pro's Kit SS-331H. That's about as cheap as I'd go if I cared about the stuff I was working on. The Hakko FR-301 is available on eBay from Japan for not too much more and I like the availability of tips for that.

author: mastershake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2022, 04:13:55 am
content: i have a couple of the Pro's Kit SS-331H and they work fine for what they are. i dont use them to often unless im repairing something like a guitar tube amp with through hole stuff and even then its not really needed but it does make it a bit faster.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2022, 07:27:53 am
content: Quote from: nali on May 01, 2022, 09:21:56 amNot sure what model it is but they do sell larger mass tips. Old disposable dross traps or any worn seals need to be replaced in order to have a good vacuum and there might be an old filter inside the station (in addition to the outside one). I'd recommend using the glass reusable traps with the filter and z baffle. Turn the airflow fully up as well and disconnect any nozzle on the air outlet.

author: nali
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2022, 09:00:13 am
content: Quote from: Shock on May 07, 2022, 07:27:53 amIt's a ST75 which has a disposable dross trap on the handle and a filter in the hose near the base. Not sure about inside but I don't think so. First thing I did was to replace both but the head is shagged too and I lost interest really, especially as I'm only on a temporary contract. It's power products I'm working with so lots of copper both in the boards and bus bars... if I do need to desolder something I tend to reach for the Chip-Quik bismuth alloy which gets the job done then clean up with Soder Wick (this isn't a production environment so I'm not too worried about contamination).

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2022, 01:22:10 pm
content: As a product category they seemed either too flimsy/cheap or flammable or way overpriced.. Ive tried all the cheapies and none of them seemed so useful. Several immediately failed for various reasons.So I built my own and it works well. Its very simple, see above..

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2022, 01:23:20 pm
content: Quote from: bob91343 on April 30, 2022, 09:21:04 pmHow much did it cost you? Does it have a desoldering function? I think my hot air blower has a similar name, is it just a temperature controlled air station, with tongs? (the same as mine)Is it not a solder sucker?

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2022, 02:19:45 pm
content: 878 and 8788 is like a 858 2 in 1 with 936 iron.

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2022, 03:08:29 pm
content: Quote from: bdunham7 on May 01, 2022, 06:00:00 pmDo you have one of these? Do you run it from a variac?

author: BlackICE
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2022, 11:18:34 pm
content: I have an FR301 for USA 120VAC that works great. IMO using it for just 2 project, it paid for itself. Would have been a PITA without such a tool. You may find others that are less expensive that work just about as well, but Hakko has a great variety of tips and other parts. The same cannot be said for some of the other ones.Japan is 100v so using it if you are running 120v+ without correction may lead to failures.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2022, 12:04:20 am
content: Quote from: edavid on May 08, 2022, 03:08:29 pmMine is a US version, but others have bought the less expensive Japan version and had no issues. It is just a heating element.You can see from the attached manual excerpt that the power is lower for the lower voltages in the proportion you would expect.

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 09, 2022, 09:19:27 am
content: I've got a Quick 201B, I'm really happy with it, the performance and build quality is excellent. It seems as good as if not better than the Weller stations I've used in work.I first bought a ZD-8915 but it was a waste of time, I've gone through 3 guns as the heaters have failed in some way.The heating element is just too small and there is not enough heat where the solder exits in to the glass tube so it constantly blocks.I made several modifications to the unit and the guns but never have been happy with it.If you do go for a Zhongdi (ZD) manufactured station get the ZD-915 or ZD-985 as the gun has a lot more thermal mass, avoid the ZD-8915 imho.

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2022, 07:20:23 pm
content: Quote from: bdunham7 on May 09, 2022, 12:04:20 amThat doesn't line up with how Hakko list three heater part numbers for 100, 120, and 127VAC. OTOH it does line up with a a Japanese ebay auction I found with a clear enough pic to read the data sticker as 100V 98W. Probably close enough to be worth the gamble either way. I wonder if they're building them all with the one heater and only offering the options on replacement, a quick look doesn't show one sold for the 127V market. Probably worth the gamble, they're only ~$200 delivered BNIB from Japan on ebay.https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr301_parts.html

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2022, 08:48:03 pm
content: Japaneese FR301 works just fine at 120V without any mod, I have one which I bought considerably cheaper few years ago.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2022, 09:23:09 pm
content: Quote from: BrokenYugo on May 09, 2022, 07:20:23 pmMaybe all three heaters are exactly the same but just given different part numbers according to local rules or approvals of some sort. The same manual also tells you that the heater elements from 100 to 127 volts are all 35 ohms. Not that the math works out on that either, but perhaps the heaters have some special sauce. In any case, I don't know of anyone that has had trouble with these.

author: Talebe
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 29, 2022, 03:58:32 pm
content: It says on it that the heater element inside the part numbered 140Watt A5047 of the Fr301 USA Model is 100v 50 Watt.PCB boards of 3 different voltage supported products

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2022, 01:35:56 am
content: I have a Hakko, the older style popular one, fx888 iirc. It's nice but a bit under powered for some stuff I do, like computer PSUs or big multi layer PCBs.But I should get a hot plate or make a stand for my hot air gun.Oh cheap desoldering-gun, yeah they look nice, but I bet the clog all the time too. I'm guessing the expensive ones clog all the time too.

author: Calambres
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2022, 08:00:39 am
content: Quote from: mastershake on May 07, 2022, 04:13:55 amDitto. It's quite good for the price, works well and spares are readily available.