hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
New IoT Device on Kickstarter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Leglad
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 16, 2014, 01:20:37 pm
content: Hi Guys,I am part of monoLit, a young Danish start-up.The 21. Oct. 2014 on Kickstarter, we’ll introduce our new device: mono.A matchbox sized programmable computer that connects to almost anything imaginable. It is Arduino compatible and lets creative people easily build great solutions.Website:www.openmono.comWhat do you think about it, would it be something you would use? Feedback will be very much appreciated.Kickstarter preview:http://bit.ly/openmono

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2014, 01:51:52 pm
content: Wish you luck, I do not see the space/opportunity you are trying to fill.If it was priced as a IoT device like around $30 sure great to have a couple of those in tha house.And probably if you would go and built a million devices you can get there.But for this price you can buy and choose out of a lot of different manufacturers Android mini tablets which are made in the millions and they are thinner/sexier better lcd with cap ts and you have more apps right away.So yeah well I hope for you I am wrong and there are a lot of people who are looking for such gadget but as I see it you should have gone for a more simple cheaper device without trying to cover all users possibilities (like the color lcd for one) since then you are compeating with the small tablets manufacturers.

author: eneuro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2014, 08:04:11 pm
content: Good luck, but It is too bigI want it at 1inch2 size (12.5mm X 50mm, or 25 X 25mm ), so designing own device based on my concept of automated house, where my home knows what I want and I do not have to press anything.In more advanced version such device should be able read my thoughts and control things around me without thinking and touching this kind of device
New knobs and pots for my XP-720K - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: signal
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 02:30:52 am
content: I am building the Elenco XP-720k and based on much feedback here and elsewhere I have replaced the pots and knobs:The stock pots are very cheap and stiff. The stock knobs are just plastic lightweight. The new equipment is nice and machined:Knobs: Kilo International OESL-75-4-5http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&keywords=226-4114-NDPots: Bourns 3590S-2-202Lhttp://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=3590S-2-202L-ND&WT.z_header=search_go
New KNOBS - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mtsign
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 31, 2017, 10:21:59 am
content: For redesigner, new KNOBS for Siglent SDS1202X-E.My very special thanks in this context go to Jonas Rijnders from Siglent.eu.More informationwww.facebook.com/siglent.instruments/Keep calm and never stop hacking.

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2017, 10:30:23 pm
content: Quote from: mtsign on July 31, 2017, 10:21:59 amNo, unfortunately I can't seem to find more information there, except for one more photo showing metal grindings (?) on the scope's front panel PCB. Could you elaborate a bit? Which knobs did you use? Why was it so difficult to exchange them? (Did you turn you own knobs?)

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2017, 10:45:55 pm
content: Ex factory there is ~2mm clearance from the base of the knobs to the front panel and all this mod seems to offer is reducing this clearance.Care need be taken to not reduce the clearance too far so to interrupt the press function of the knobs and restrict some of the features of the scope.

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2017, 10:49:31 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on July 31, 2017, 10:45:55 pmBy grinding down the encoder axes?! Ouch. I would be worried about side effects.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2017, 10:52:41 pm
content: This is the worst introduction post I've ever seen from a new "member".

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2017, 10:59:31 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on July 31, 2017, 10:51:03 pmApparently the new knobs are what Siglent uses on the SDS2000X series. But I agree, they would not be my preference from a functional perspective if they are as smooth and slippery as they look.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2017, 11:20:00 pm
content: Quote from: ebastler on July 31, 2017, 10:59:31 pmCorrect I overlooked this. And the 2000X knobs sit higher against the front panel hence the OP's wish to file the shaft and lower them closer to the front panel. The X-E originals have ridges for grip but the 2000X knobs while looking smooth have a better rubbery feel that is representative of a better quality instrument.They are interchangeable but I don't see any significant advantage.Pimp your scope..............
New Laptop Modded Case - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ShadyK
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2014, 07:33:44 pm
content: Hey guys.I know that every one here is extremelly intelligent and knows what they are talking aboutRight this is my planI have a Dell inspiron 1545 In black,I plan to modded the case accordingly trying so much not to effect the orignal airflow in the case, But i plan to have 2 plexi glass windows either side of the track pad,Now for the fun stuff, I plan to run 15-20 1.8mm 3.3v LEDs in various areas of the casing, using the main power bus on the board of 5v. some of these also on the lid after a picture has been cut out and diffused, The leds are going in parallel with a 110Resistor on each LED, i think this is right as i worked it out using OHMs Law R=V/I, R110=3.3v/0.03Ampres. I hope that this is right, Does any one have any thing to add?

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2014, 08:02:41 pm
content: The voltage over the resistor would be around 5-3.3=1.7V, so for 0.03A that gives 1.7/0.03 = 56.6 Ohm.That said, 30 mA is probably the absolute maximum rating so you want to design for 20 mA ... which gives 1.7/0.02 = 85 Ohm (use 86.6 Ohm).

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2014, 08:22:42 pm
content: The voltage drop on the resistor is 5v-3.3v (that number actually varies depending on the color of the led) = 1.7v.Your number of 110ohm is in the ballpark. No reason to be super-precise here.

author: ShadyK
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2014, 10:04:42 pm
content: Thank you guys for the super qucik replys. I do apologise if i come across as a bit of a beginner ( because i am ), so if i use a 80ohms resistor (only becasue i have a few at home), would this be ok? iu will post some pictures up of the gear i have and that when i finish work
New LED light for an Olympus BHM microscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2015, 07:20:44 am
content: This is another one of my posts that should really be in a metalworking forum, since there's virtually no electronics mentioned. Oh well. Some may find it interesting. Or perhaps use the trick way of concentrating light from a large LED.http://everist.org/NobLog/20150510_Olympus_bhm.htm

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2015, 06:20:41 pm
content: Heatsinks for first generation Pentiums and Celerons, likely either the original Intel box set types, or the later ones or clones, easy to tell as the fan will have a hologram on it with the Intel logo, and will be a ball bearing one. Early ones were 2 wire, later they were 3 wire except on the base speed where they were 2 wire with a 3 wire socket on the end. I have used them as LED and power transistor bases as well, they will do 20W without cooling fan ( fins vertical) or 40W with the fan ( orientation insensitive) and are easy to drill and tap, as well as being common.
New LT3046 Regulator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ocw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2024, 08:29:50 pm
content: It was nice to receive and test the new Analog Devices LT3046 regulator. It appears to be a lower current (200 ma) and price version of the popular 500 ma LT3045. I measured the noise for the LT3046 as being 0.83 uV RMS as compared to 0.81 uV RMS for the LT3045 on my test boards. The spec sheet value for both is 0.8 uV RMS.

author: AnalogTodd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2024, 10:00:37 pm
content: It appears that ADI had someone completely re-do the LT3042 (which was the first product in this ultra-low noise ultra-high PSRR product line developed at LTC) just to try and improve the 1/f noise of the part. Looks like they may have moved it to a different process based on the changes in many of the specs, but otherwise it seems to be over 90+% the same design.

author: ocw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2024, 10:22:27 pm
content: Yes, the LT3046 is probably closer to being a DFN-12 version of the LT3042. My new test of the LT3042H measured 0.45 uV RMS noise on it. A prior test of a LT3042 from China measured 1.27 uV RMS noise.

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2024, 11:19:45 pm
content: Yes, nothing breakthrough but it's a nice part and a bit cheaper than the LT3045, that's fine if you don't need the 500 mA.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2024, 05:51:31 am
content: i guess its a sign of the times (recession) that the marketing thing is less current now. I wanted more current from LDO not less recently.. I had to parallel LDO on my last board, and its the first interesting board in a long timeLow current is annoying, i.e. thats why we have crazy 20V USB to get many watts now.A victim of shrinkflation?Then you end up with systems that have too many parts and complex failure modes (i.e. new tesla with their mini igbts).

author: ArdWar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2024, 06:59:21 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on March 16, 2024, 05:51:31 amI kind of disagree with that. As long as it's within safe voltage range, higher voltage lower current is preferable over higher current for small portable end user operated hot swappable connector. Contact resistance and other stuffs considered. Just look at how it works with PCIe 12vhpwr, with its 50A current rating.On another note, there's LT3041 if you want more current.
New MOTOROLA COMMUNICATIONS SYSTEM ANALYZER group - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Crambone
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2022, 10:31:17 pm
content: https://groups.io/g/MotorolaCSAHello all, I hope this is allowed here if not I will understand if it is removed.As the owner of a MOTOROLA R2660B Communications System Analyzer I can’t find any groups that help users that would like to try and repair such units. Also thought it might be a good idea to have a place to have files, pics… all in one area.I look forward and welcome all users and especially experienced technicians that could assist other users.If anyone has any suggestions for such a group I am open for all input.Thank you, Andrew
New Open Souce IoT plateform with Multiple add-on (http://www.linuxiot.org/) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sanwal209
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2017, 06:19:59 pm
content: Hi Guys,Me and my friend working on a new IoT plateform from last one year. There are many IoT devices in the market but there are no standards. We developed complete custom hardware and add-on plus custom software. Everything is open source.I am huge fan of Dave and people over here as this is the best place to find help. Please help us improve this open source project. Your review does really mean to us.http://www.linuxiot.org/Please spread the wordBest RegardsSanwal Saleem
New Open-Source FPGA Image Processing Project  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: electro-logic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2017, 09:41:00 am
content: Hello all,I have started an open-source project athttps://github.com/electro-logic/CameraVisionfor doing Image Processing with FPGA.At this stage I have a working and commented hardware / firmware / software that interface FPGA with Omnivision CMOS Image Sensor Camera OV8865 mounted on Terasic D8M module.FPGA handle data from and to the image sensor using custom hardware module with Avalon Interface and NIOS II soft-cpu for sending data to pc. I managed to reach full image sensor resolution (8 MegaPixel). In my blog there are some detailshttp://electro-logic.blogspot.itand soon more will follow.Some algorithms like demosaicing and color correction are implemented in software but I hope to implement it in FPGA soon with other higher-level algorithms of computer vision.If you like Image Processing and FPGA you are welcome to contribute to the project.Thank youLeonardoPS: I have working DE1-Soc and BeMicro CV A9 (using DDR3) version of the project, if you have these boards instead of DE0-Nano let me know.
New PCBs buzzing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: natester
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2022, 03:41:49 pm
content: I just built ~10 new pcbs (stm32 based brushless motor controller), flashed them all (3.3v only) and everything seemed ok.7 work fine. However 3 of the new boards, when I plug them into the battery voltage ~12v, they draw way too much current (limited to 0.3A during my testing, vs 0.05A for the working ones) and the boards make a high pitch buzzing noise.The microcontroller side still seems fine, but there seems to be something wrong on the higher voltage rail.My question is how do I best debug these? I've tried to isolate the buzzing component, but it seems that every regulator and diode on the higher voltage side is buzzing. Could I turn up the regulated current and use a thermal camera to identify hot components? Is there a simpler way?Any advice is much appreciated.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2022, 05:03:16 pm
content: I would check if the buzzing comes from the way your power supply implements current limiting. It might be oscillating.And then it is impossible to tell without knowing the design details. Generally you solve issues like this by finding a way to disconnect different parts from each other and checking them separately. For example, switching regulators may have an inductor on the output that would separate them from the rest of the circuit.

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2022, 06:33:28 pm
content: Shorts either due to manufacturing defects or soldering are a thing ...

author: nvmR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2022, 07:36:57 pm
content: As suggested before, a picture/schematic may be useful.Other things to check are whether the diodes are assembles in the correct direction, and whether you did something marginal in the design - such as minimum load requirements.Happy debugging!

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2022, 10:29:44 pm
content: You could get a silicone tube to stick in your ear like a stethoscope and use that to narrow down where on your PCB the sound is coming from.

author: KaneTW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2022, 12:12:23 am
content: Use a thermal camera to check for shorts.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2022, 03:49:04 am
content: Quote from: KaneTW on October 10, 2022, 12:12:23 amCheaper alternative if you don't have one: spray some alcohol on it and watch where it evaporates first.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2022, 11:34:39 am
content: Crank it up to 20amps, no thermal camera or alcohol required, the crater left after the explosion will reveal where the problem was, or where a new problem is.
New project: HAGELIN B-21 vintage cipher machine replica (ish) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ChristofferB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2017, 12:52:03 am
content: Hi all! Just wanted to show off a new project I've come up with, seeing that the other 500 in progress can't grab my interest at the momentLike vintage computers and Pink Floyd: Weknowthose who say they dislike them are lying, as with cipher machines and other vintage crypto stuff.Enough blabbing, here's the deal: The Hagelin B-21 is sorta a Swedish cousin to the Enigma - it's simpler, has only two code wheels and plug boards, but else has the same qualities as the enigma:Here's a link for more info:http://www.cryptomuseum.com/crypto/hagelin/b21/index.htmNow, I'm no clockmaker, or machinist, so turning all the mechanical parts is out of the question; I'm gonna implement it with only discrete logic and a ROM!Here's my schematic, I've labeled all the functional blocks for the viewers convenience.Basic theory is, I'm diode steering the keypad into a row and column active high signal. columns are connected to the lamp-boards (in the original, there was a code-wheel and plugboard on these as well), and then I'm feeding rows to the Eprom. the 'rotation' of the wheel is done by a 74193 counter. It also has an up/down button for setting starting point.the green section is the plugboard and switching logic; if the code wheel was just wires this weren't needed, but you can't invert the data/addr on an EPROM.the encrypt/decrypt switch shifts the counter between up and down, and the direction of the plugboard.The eprom will then hold the key, two sets, one for encode and one for decode. A few issues still stand; the COLPRES line should have a negative edge detector, so it 'turns the wheel' on release. I also need a solution to view the letter the 5 bits from the counters are at; another eprom as lookup, maybe.I am by no means sure this will work, the logic surrounding the plugboard got me puzzled for a while.Hope some of you find this interesting!--Chris

author: retrolefty
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2017, 01:00:42 am
content: You make me feel vintage. I worked on an updated electric motor driven U.S. equivalent version from 66-70 in the US Air Force, the KL-7. Instead of lighting lights it printed on a build-in 1/4" paper strip printer. Pretty reliable but oh so many contacts to keep cleaned.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KL-7

author: ChristofferB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2017, 01:12:31 am
content: Oh that's a neat machine too! Love that timeless mid-20th century cold war look!
New project need advice on the best way to start - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dmkmedia
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2017, 12:40:22 pm
content: this is my project i need to make a portable version of this for my wifehttp://www.lloydspharmacy.com/en/revitive-advanced-performance-circulation-booster?gclid=CLbE9NS5o9ECFeUy0wodTkoNagi need to make thisa a potable unit so my wife can use this when she is working as it does help with her diabetes and her foot pain but she cant take it around with herhere are some measurements i have taken from the machine when it its working on the settings she requires3.604vAC06.84mA ACthe device will be connected to the skin via the connectors you see on the above image i used to get the readingsThis pulses every second or so rising up from zero over a 0.5 second intervalmy question is how would you guys start a project like this???

author: PartialDischarge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2017, 01:28:17 pm
content: I understand this is a one time made item. Lithium 18650 cells for the batteries as they are widespread and will last for long.Get a 3D printer and make your own cover with any of the available design tools. With that I'd repackage the electronics inside that unit to make the new more portable one.

author: dmkmedia
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2017, 03:01:03 pm
content: Quote from: MasterTech on January 02, 2017, 01:28:17 pmnot an option she wants to keep this item as is

author: VoidsWarranties
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2017, 03:55:30 pm
content: Are you asking how to make it battery powered? Or how to make a smaller one?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

author: tpowell1830
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2017, 04:16:27 pm
content: I would start off with all of the design life-cycle definitions from your wife (the customer), such as:What are the physical dimensions desired, such as size, weight,etc?How long and where would this be used (environmental)?What are the desired power options such as plug into wall, batteries, rechargeable, USB?What cost?Etc.Then I would start with the design to meet the customer needs. Power, methods of operation, container...PEACE===>T

author: dmkmedia
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2017, 04:44:56 pm
content: Quote from: VoidsWarranties on January 02, 2017, 03:55:30 pmbattery powered would be nice but im thinking it may only last a few mins on each charge

author: richardlawson1489
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2017, 02:00:39 pm
content: Which design tool are you using?
New PV 100Wmax one thick aluminum track not properly connected ?!  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: szan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2022, 06:12:25 pm
content: Hello,I've brand new PV 100Wmax 1000mm x 670mm solar panel, but I've discovered such crack in one place - one thick aluminum track not properly connected ?!Does it affect somehow its overall performance or it doesn't matter, since it looks like there are other thinner connections ?

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2022, 06:29:08 am
content: Return it if you can, looks like that part of the track wasn't bonded or is debonding.
New safety standard from March 1st 2011 (test leads)  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2011, 02:49:25 pm
content: On March 1st, 2011, the new safety standard IEC61010-031:2008introduces some modifications of the measurement accessories.More here..http://www.warwickts.com/latest-news.asp?id=9Example...http://www.warwickts.com/latest-news.asp?id=7

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2011, 06:49:23 pm
content: Actually, there is a new version of IEC61010, not just the test leads. All parts have been changed as the general requirements (61010-1) has been altered. This the reason that Fluke have discontinued a lot of products recently.Neil
Trying to make a PCB for a motor controller [Schematic review] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: lemm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2025, 01:12:36 pm
content: Hi everyone,I've finalized the schematic for a battery-powered Zigbee smart blind controller and would be grateful for a review before I move to PCB layout. This is a revised version of a design I posted previously, now updated with a lot of great feedback.Current Design Overview:MCU: ESP32-H2-MINI-1 for a low-power Zigbee device.Power: 3S Li-ion (12.6V) input, fully protected with a TVS, fuse, and reverse-polarity diode. A modern MP2330H buck converter provides the 3.3V rail.Motor Control: DRV8871 driver with INA219 for current sensing. Includes an RC snubber, ferrite bead, and capacitors for EMI suppression.Programming: Native USB via the ESP32-H2's dedicated pins (IO26/IO27), which also provides JTAG debugging. The USB-C port is ESD protected.I believe the design is now robust and complete, but as I am new to this, I would appreciate any final checks or suggestions from the community.I've attached the schematic below.Thanks for your time and expertise!The original thread can be found here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/seeking-feedback-on-new-esp32-schematic/msg6058185/#msg6058185
New Switching Converter Topology? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 09:18:38 am
content: Does this... exist? I mean, has it been named, or enumerated anywhere?Sort of like a Cuk, but swapping the capacitor and switch. Could be used for low ripple buck (drop D1 and Q2), a kind of extended-winding boost (change D1 to transistor, Q2 to diode, drop Q1 and D2), equalizing source/load (note that switching Q1+Q2 is a I/III quadrant operation), generating a negative rail (set one supply to zero, and move the diodes to a new negative rail), etc.Tim

author: chris_leyson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 09:41:44 am
content: Hi Tim, wow never thought of that one before, done a version of a Cuk many years ago based on a back to back pair of Crouse filters US1920948 1933. My argument was that it was all prior knowledge but I don't think it would hold any water legally. Anyway, after a lot of fiddling with transformer coupling I actually managed to get zero ripple or pretty damn close on both primary and secondary at the same time but you could never build it in practice.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 03:30:50 pm
content: Just seems to be a convoluted tapped inductor buck or boost.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 09:41:27 pm
content: Indeed:The waveform is identical to a tapped buck, with the diode on the CT. Not surprising, as D1 is inactive, and the positions of the primary and switch can be swapped, giving the traditional form.Tim

author: rmacintosh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2017, 03:40:35 am
content: what simulation package are you using?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2017, 04:33:28 am
content: Just Altium. Seems like few use it; it's workable, but leaves much to be desired.Tim
New to Designing an Isolated Flyback Converter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Ezequiel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 21, 2022, 02:07:30 pm
content: Hello! I need to design an isolated flyback converter with the following specs:Input: 4.5V-20VOutput: 5.5V // 1AIs there any tool that could help me to design this circuit?I have run into many ic controllers, but in all the design examples I end up having to design a transformer, and I try to avoid it. Do you know any supplier that has a catolog to look for a part that suits my application?Or should I start learning to design a transformer for this particular application?The IC I've been looking:LT8304MAX17691BD7F100HFN-LBAny help would be appreciated.Thanks.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2022, 03:26:35 pm
content: Why not buy already made dc-dc converters, you have some isolated models with a wide input voltage range around 10 to 20$ usd ??ExempleWe use this one : non isolated 5v at 2 amp outputInput voltage from 6.5 to 32vdc ??For a mere 15$ usd, the price as risen a little, we paid them 12$ usdhttps://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/RECOM-Power/R-78B50-20?qs=X3130gGoUctzFy6YRarmwA%3D%3DIn your country you must have electronic part resellers ??Designing a board could be costly and time consumingYou have tons of designs on a google search your terminology is : ''isolated dc-dc converter'' not a flyback converter

author: pardo-bsso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2022, 05:38:19 pm
content: To add some context, 10u$s to 20u$s is a lot of money here.And also importing stuff is near impossible at times.But I concur with you. There has to be something local here that's close to what Ezequiel needs.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2022, 08:22:32 pm
content: For voltages and currents as standard as this, I see no reason for throwing a lot of effort into an own design.And is importing a ferrite core and bobbin easier than importing a module?

author: flowib
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2022, 05:42:40 am
content: If it werent for the weird 4.5V requirement, i could do a board in two hours flat.Wurth Electronics has a standard transformer cataloghttps://www.we-online.com/catalog/en/pbs/power_magneticsSo does the Polish Ferryster but its hard to find the list of available models on their website.
New to PCB design, is there anything that looks off in my STM32 setup? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Nilpy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 04, 2023, 02:51:11 am
content: Hi all,This is my first PCB design, and I've probably bitten off more than I can chew.The schematic is for a Laser Scanning Microscope, that uses two DVD pickups (The part that scans the disk) to instead scan a small sample.Some jargon:OPU = Optical pickup UnitVCM = Voice Coil Motor. Each axis requires about 100ma@0.8v max (except for the fine focus at about ~25ma@0.3v)PDIC = Photo Diode Integrated Circuit. Basically it's a quadrant of photodiodes + transimpedance amplifiers. Output for each channel is ~500mv peak-peak, offset around the 2.1v VREFParts I'm unsure about:The pinout of the BOOT0 switch (dumb, I know)Whether the 5v filter will workWhether I can draw enough current from a USB connection only (3x100ma + 1x25ma + 1x85ma (laser) + STM32/AMS1117 consumption + everything else)And if this circuit is actually functionalThanks,NilpyEDIT:Forgot to ask if I can have the stm32 DACs have negative gain via the PGA with an external bias
New Transistor Type! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ludzinc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 12, 2015, 02:40:15 am
content: New type of transistor identifiedhttp://ludzinc.blogspot.com.au/2015/01/may-force-be-with-you.html

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2015, 02:52:53 am
content: Do you drive the gate with the Force?

author: Fsck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2015, 03:00:56 am
content: Quote from: rx8pilot on January 12, 2015, 02:52:53 amhe's a mercenary who doesn't use the force though.it was a good laugh though.

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2015, 05:04:12 am
content: What if that device dies? He is worth a lot of money to me.
new use for a howard group pal colour bar generator ep872gb - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2023, 03:02:33 am
content: hi,i have been given a howard group pal colour bar generator ep872gb,it was from a friend closing down his tv repair shop,the unit is in nice condition,it seems a shame to break it,is there anything usefull it can be used for ,or anything it could be made into to be of use nowadays?.

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2023, 09:45:07 am
content: anyone?.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2023, 03:40:57 pm
content: If you had a schematic.....Take your signal gen and mix stuff into the composite waveform- keep the dc level of the added signal above sync.Sum the output with your randoms with a couple of 150 ohm resistors.
new uses for old smartphones with gps - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: silly sausage
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 01:57:06 am
content: Hi folks, I have a few old smartphones that have gps, Can one be hacked to be used as a frequency standard/reference to cal a freq counter, Like a GPSDO ?.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 02:07:04 am
content: QuoteI don't see how it's supposed to generate/output the signal.

author: silly sausage
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 03:02:06 am
content: I was wondering if they could be hacked to do this as it seems most parts are already there, Seems a pity to send them to landfill.

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 03:40:30 am
content: Well, people have done half of it:https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/6229497/Quote from: silly sausage on January 31, 2025, 03:02:06 amWhich parts are you thinking of? where is the VCXO ?

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 03:58:44 am
content: real gps modules or gps by phone provider ??
NEW version Antenna analyzer MetroVna Pro Touch   - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: iz7ldg
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 11, 2015, 03:06:28 pm
content: Hi I want to present the new version of the antenna analyzer for amateur radio.and 'a project home made. With Metrovna is possible measurements of the antennas, filters, baluns and transmission lines.more infohttp://www.metrovna.com73'AntonioIZ7LDG
New video, Steinberg UR-22 24bit/192kHz USB Audio Interface review, teardown and - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Alexei.Polkhanov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2015, 10:09:10 pm
content: I have just uploaded new video where I tear down and experiment with Steinberg UR-22 24bit/192kHz USB Audio Interface review, tear-down and experiments.It is probably boring, unless you are looking for cheap DAQ solutions for your PC or have some other interest in this kind of equipment.Enjoy.
New video - yet another laser range finder,  UltraLyte LTI 20-20 police LIDAR - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Alexei.Polkhanov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2015, 09:33:43 am
content: Hi, I made a new video today with yet another laser range finder - this time I have a tear down of UltraLyte LTI 20-20 police LIDAR. Please enjoy. Comments are welcome as always.
new waterproof electrical box enclosure - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: macsboost
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 07, 2018, 01:44:28 pm
content: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KTS2X1Hi Guys, This is a shameless plug for a nice automotive grade waterproof enclosure for your future projects.The enclosure is fantastic, rugged, waterproof and has a nice 6p connector. The mate is low cost, about $2.50 from mouser.It is the perfect size for an arduino nano, pi zero, particle photon, electron, adafruit feather, etc and have room for internal sensors or batteries.I am going to work on making some break out pcbs that will adapt it to various dev boards and have some prototyping area. I do have a eagle layout for the connector but it is in beta.I can supply many of these if this becomes a hot item or of you need thousands for your project.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2024, 07:17:49 am
content: I'm looking for something like this, but it seems like this thing isn't made anymore. Anyone know of something like this you can still get?Yes, I know about the TE DTM series but I'm looking for something much less expensive.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2024, 03:54:30 am
content: No waterproof housing + connector love?I should add that I also know about the cinch stuff, which is more expensive than the TE DT/DTM stuff.

author: DTJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2024, 02:05:30 pm
content: Is that a Deutsch style plug?You omitted the price you sell these for.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2024, 05:14:56 pm
content: I'd be loking at sensor I/O junction boxes used in factory automation. Pricey though.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2024, 08:08:20 pm
content: Quote from: Terry Bites on January 30, 2024, 05:14:56 pmLike this?https://www.wago.com/global/c/sensor-actuator-boxesThe application for me would be a housing for a custom PCB, so I think that sort of thing won't work. I really need essentially what the OP listed. Too bad they have disappeared from the market. I guess my intuition that would be a good product is a bit off or something.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2024, 06:48:57 am
content: Oh, interesting. I think this is the OPs site:https://www.macsboost.com/product/lightspeed-waterproof-feather-iot-project-box/
New webinar: demystifying brushless motor control - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: element14
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 02:14:55 am
content: Hi Guys.I wanted to let you know about an upcoming webinar we're hosting on element14 on brushless motor control. Many people already know some of the advantages afforded by brushless motors: less wear-and-tear, higher efficiency, and generally, a lot more uptime than with traditional brushed motors. But these advantages often entail a greater degree of complexity. Do you know enough to actually implement Field Oriented Control in your designs?Join Freescale's Branislav Zigmund on June 11 for an all-new webinar on how to get started with Field Oriented Control on the S12ZVM Mixed-Signal MCU. You can learn more and sign-up here:http://www.element14.com/community/events/4061As a reminder, all our webinars are 100% free.Thanks, and we hope to see you there!Sagar
new workbench - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: odell
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2012, 10:01:16 am
content: what do you think of my new workbench design for electronic work. It has 6 drawers 29*29*6.5. and it is 78*66.5*28 . It has 16*78 working area

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2012, 10:09:59 am
content: I cant see the picture and i assume the measurements are in imperial?Regards

author: odell
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2012, 10:13:47 am
content: Quotecan you see the picture now and no there are in IN

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2012, 12:39:13 pm
content: If you have a choice, more thin drawers are much more space efficient. The vast majority of items you will put in the drawer will be less than 2" high. In your example, changing the top two drawers on both sides to 4 drawers 3.25 high will be much more usefull. You would then have 8 drawers 3.25 high and 2 drawers 6.5 high. FWIW

author: Shale
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2012, 03:03:13 am
content: you might thing about making your shelves deeper. Nice deep shelves are always nicer than thin shelves. Also, go ahead and design in several power plug spots on your bench, makes it a lot nicer than having to go through surge protectors. Also think about the lighting in your area. If it is not so great, you can incorporate it in to your desk design.
Newbie asking for help with electronics advice and help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: carlosinseattle
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2019, 11:02:19 pm
content: My first time posting after discovering the site a couple years ago.I'd like some advice and help with understanding a how a component works, possible reverse engineering it, and then trying to adapt it for a related use. It's for toy slot cars and this is way out of the area of expertise for slot car enthusiast. I'll list what I'm trying to do and I'm open to aan and all suggestions. And if this post needs to be moved to a different area feel free to do so.I want to know how this box works, it converts DC to 50hz "pulsed" DC powerThe box was used on German slot car sets from the early 80's to late 90's only.Can that same system be used for HO slot cars?Why can't a regular dc motor "see/recognize" a 50hz pulsed dc signal?Since the boxes are in short supply I'd like help to recreate it, the cheaper the better:)I'd love for somebody to hold my hand through this and if I'm trying to do something stupid or impossible i'd love to know sooner than later, before i wast too much time. I can provide more details and pictures if somebody is willing to help, I just didn't want to post a bunch of information only to be told this isn't the correct place on the forum.That's it in a nutshell
Newbie check and hi everyone - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: _fsck
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 19, 2023, 05:10:08 pm
content: Hi Folks,Happy to meet you all, so to speak. I'm obv brand new here, so I hope I'm asking in the right place, in the right way - please elbow-check me if not.I am very much a software person, not an EE, but I'm also working on building some necessary hardware for doing relatively large scale semi-automated testing of lithium-ion cells. Of course, there are innumerable battery chargers out there, and a number of spreadsheet "apps", but I'm shooting to have a charge and discharge+testing mechanism that will run multiple configurable tests per cell with automatic reporting and storage of results. This will be arduino and/or Pi driven - no screens nor buttons, everything will be handled via software.With that general goal in mind, since I'm not very experienced with hardware, I've been slowly modifying designs from much smarter people to hopefully suit my use case. Case in point, I wanted to be able to control the charge current sent to a battery cell with software, so I took thishttps://oshwlab.com/wagiminator/z-lifepo4-chargerAnd replaced a single external resistor with a digital pot, changed up a few connectors and so on. But, I thought this time I'd ask a bit about the design before moving straight to physical builds. I trust the original plan, so this is really about my main change:Will U3 work as I hope here? The CN3058E will adjust the constant current based off an external resistor on pin 2, and I've swapped the original for an I2C-controllable digipot, assuming that I can control the current that way. Am I off base or missing anything glaring? Info page for the charging IC is here, if that helps:http://www.consonance-elec.com/en/97.htmlThanks in advance!
NEWBIE: DC-10 Power Connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 10:56:19 am
content: This will sound pretty stupid but....When using a DC-10A PCB Power connector... e.g.http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/317160.pdfIt has 3 pins....1 Central Pin (inner-most on PCB; at back of connector)... 12V for me2 Pin (on side)... seems to be a contact to Pin 3?3 Outer (most forward on PCB)... GND for meI couldn't find a component/pattern in DipTrace so hand crafted my own... seems the Pin numbering on these parts varies...... e.g.http://www.farnell.com/cad/2009553.pdfseems to be similar but swaps the Pin numbers of 2 and 3... there are probably more variants too.Anyway....What should I do with Pin 2? Wire it together with Pin 3?Thanks in advance

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 01:39:59 pm
content: OK. It looks like 2 and 3 get wired together as GND and Pin 1 is used for +VIN.

author: CJay
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 01:46:41 pm
content: The three pins usually include a switch, so two are connected until you insert a plug which breaks the contact between them.It's usually used to isolate a battery pack so you don't explode a bunch of alkalines by charging them.

author: iainwhite
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 02:49:23 pm
content: Nice explanationHERE
Newbie: Dodgy Connectors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2023, 03:34:34 pm
content: Some time ago I built a gadget with an Arduino Uno and wired it all together using Dupont type flying wires.It does work but this gadget gets moved around and is unreliable.The PCB is an off the shelf Arduino Uno and has female 2.54mm connectors into which the male end of a Dupont type wire goes. It is pretty rubbish in the presence of knocks and bangs to the device.Obviously I could just hard solder the wires in... any other alternatives?Thanks in advance

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2023, 03:48:00 pm
content: Make a multi pin plug,bit of veroboard with suitable pin headers solder to it and the wires also soldered to the vero,its harder for the multiple pins to escape than individual pins
Newbie needs help with triggering circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: cpfeiffer55
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2024, 05:57:01 pm
content: Hi Folks, I currently am working on a triggering circuit for an application at home. I basically pulled the circuitry shown in red box from the attached image. I or-tied 5 and 6 together on the NOR gate and use ground to trigger the relay. My question is that this works well up to a certain resistance across ground and the inputs to the NOR gate however I would like to have more sensitivity. I would like the circuit to trigger if there was about 16 megohm between ground and the inputs. I was thinking of using an OP AMP but I am not certain what type or if that will work. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance---cpfeiffer55

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2024, 06:28:15 pm
content: What type of 4001 are you using?I would have expected 16M of pull-down enough to define a low state.Try tying one of the inputs low permanently rather than using both simultaneously for whatever you're sensing.The problem may be the physical setup, any length of wire between the CMOS input and resistor is going to be acting as an antenna, for all you know the gate output is changing randomly. At one point you'll also want to better define an "off" state with a high value pull-up resistor on the input(s).

author: PCB.Wiz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2024, 06:50:21 pm
content: Quote from: cpfeiffer55 on March 06, 2024, 05:57:01 pmYou should change that to a CD4093, which has a schmitt action, to ensure the transistor is never partly turned on.Quote from: cpfeiffer55 on March 06, 2024, 05:57:01 pmWhat pullup do you use ?A HEF4093B specs 0.1uA MAX pin leakage, which is > 60Mohms equivalent.A 4093 will trigger at about 5.6V falling on 12V, so a 18 Meg pullup will give close to your 16M threshold.Take extreme care with board leakage at those high resistances.

author: SCSKITS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2024, 07:01:11 pm
content: What is the source that is "triggering" the circuit? Knowing this would help with getting answers that make sense.16 megohms seems quite high and could be susceptible to noise, also any contamination on the board (or built up over time) would affect the resistance.I agree with the other poster that a SCHMITT Trigger gate would be a better choice than the 4001.ed

author: cpfeiffer55
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2024, 08:05:49 pm
content: The triggering input is two probes. One tied to ground and the other to the NOR gate. Looking to trigger above a threshold of conductivity of a fluid that the probes are inserted into.

author: cpfeiffer55
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2024, 08:10:20 pm
content: Thanks PCB.Wiz. I will definitely give that a try.Update on the circuit - I just wanted to tell y'all that the 4093 worked perfectly for the triggering circuit. Thank you so much