EEVblog #1083 - Pocket Mutimeter Shootout - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 01:02:34 am
content: 14 pocket multimeters from $8 to $65 are torn down and compared for feature set and build quality.Ranging in price from $8 to $65, which one is the best in each price category?Timestamps:6:07 XB866 Wun Hung Lo9:42 ANENG AN820315:47 $10 Shootout Summary16:14 Uni-T UT10A19:12 Uni-T UT120B/120C22:41 UNI-T Shootout Summary23:05 Jaycar QM154426:42 $20 Shootout Summary27:06 Sanwa PM331:06 Brymen BM22 / Amprobe PM5137:31 Kyoritsu KEW101842:01 Hioki 3244-50 CARD Tester45:47 Amprobe DM78C50:25 DER EE DE-19S56:27 SANWA PM3001:02:36 ConclusionUse coupon code "pocket" for a big discount on the PM300:https://www.eevblog.com/product/pm300/Part 2:

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 02:27:26 am
content: One hour of 'Pocket Mutimeter Shootout' heaven for the viewersHow many hours spent to produce it?Would welcome a quickie Part 11 specs shootoutFWIW, Sanwa PM300 looks like it will survive drops better from 'shirt height' which is bound to happen,bent/sat on in the jeans pocket, weather extremes, rain etc when closed,and probably live through some cat and dog chomping too

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 02:42:24 am
content: Part 2 shot this morning with some basic testing. I was able to kill the ANENG

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 02:44:09 am
content: Quote from: Electro Detective on May 14, 2018, 02:27:26 amNot that long, maybe 3 hours to shoot, and 2 hours to edit.QuoteYes, the rubber case would be the best in that regard.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 04:29:48 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on May 14, 2018, 04:24:36 amPerhaps they realised it couldn't read low values accurately (or at all) and whacked in a 10nF in parallel and rely on the delta function to read lower?

author: daveshah
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 06:57:11 am
content: I've noticed the 10.17nF thing too on my UT60x (can't remember the last letter). From memory the manual even told you to use the delta function for small capacitors.

author: Cnoob
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 10:17:53 am
content: I googled DER EEhttp://www.hktdc.com/suppliers-products/Pocket-Multimeter/en/1X00III0/1960503/They sell a DER EE pocket multimeter model DE-19A which comes with a current probe and I am guessing that extracompartment at the back is for that.On PCB build quality, layout and no after thought looking components I like the Hioki the best.But as a pocket multimeter I like the Sanwa PM300

author: Cnoob
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 10:59:22 am
content: I have found a DER-EE model DE11https://www.deree.com.tw/de-11-pocket-size-digital-multimeter.htmlwith very similar looks and specs to the Sanwa pm3https://docs-apac.rs-online.com/webdocs/0171/0900766b8017123e.pdf

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 11:34:36 am
content: Quote from: Cnoob on May 14, 2018, 10:59:22 amRebadge?

author: Cnoob
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 12:09:17 pm
content: not sure if it is a rebadged one buttons are a different shape and dial different grip pattern.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 12:41:05 pm
content: Need one that measures current safely?PS: Am I the only person in the world that's noticed that you canEASILYclose the case on those cheapie slotted-case meters when the switch is in the wrong position?(...and that it's almostimpossibleto open them again afterwards?)

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 01:08:20 pm
content: What's the thing circled in red on the DER? Why is there a gap in the case there?Maybe the space at the back is for a different model with an expansion module or something.It looks like there's enough lead inside that you could wiggle out a few mm to make the wrapping+storage a bit looser. It should definitely be a bit looser by default though.Edit: Aha! Mystery solved! They make a version with a current probe that attaches there. The extra space at the back is to store the probe:

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 04:00:37 pm
content: For what it's worth, the Aneng AN8203 does indeed have a tripod stand. In fact, it's one of the best and most sable I have ever used. Just don't throw out the little strap it comes with.

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 06:13:11 pm
content: Interesting how many of these are both CE marked and rated CATII. To be CE marked (properly), it would have to meet IEC61010 and the section on multimeters explicitly states that anything rated for connection to mains must be CATIII as a minimum.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 15, 2018, 01:04:53 am
content: Quote from: Neilm on May 14, 2018, 06:13:11 pmBut a CE mark can be self certifying, it does not have to be independently EMC or safety tested. Hence the majority of multimeters sold that are not independently UL/ETL etc tested for safety.

author: Cnoob
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2018, 08:06:20 am
content: would it be a good idea to compare the best 3 pocket meters to a small Brymen (BM253) to see how they perform against it.I bought a fluke 101 recently and it's slow and vague compared to my other meters. (measuring resistances is painful.)I'm thinking of getting a keysight U1242C when I have the funds.

author: nixfu
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 15, 2018, 03:02:45 pm
content: Interesting to note that the AN8203 was bang on until you killed it.DAVE, you should open the AN8203 and at least see if it was anything easily fixable.

author: johnlsenchak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2018, 03:19:32 pm
content: Voltlog #162 - Pocket Multimeter 1KV Testing and CAT RatingsIn this video I am testing the pocket multimeters by applying transient voltages to their inputs (generated with a Brymen 887 Insulation meter) and we’re also going to talk a bit about CAT ratings and what they mean.VoltLoghttps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdXHgsCiql_78oT5ydXWvzA

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2018, 03:34:54 pm
content: Quote from: nixfu on May 15, 2018, 03:02:45 pmIf the display went blank then it's probably the main chip.Does nobody else hate the wallet cases? They put the probes right in the 'hinge' so they never close properly. Always flapping around and opening.Also: How long before the bits of velcro come unstuck from the probe straps? Don't tell me you never saw that happen.(Maybe Sanwa have some magic velcro glue but I'll wait for the long term report)

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 15, 2018, 03:42:30 pm
content: Quote from: nixfu on May 15, 2018, 03:02:45 pmMaybe Dave's AN8203 sample was defective. Here:https://youtu.be/pnv5qJoWIak?t=693he's uses an even higher voltage but for less time and didn't kill it. The ohms short seemed to show the PTC cooling off I think.I still prefer that loud continuity beeper over the Uni-T, and IMHO that little Sanwa would be a welcome addition to the store.

author: WN1X
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 15, 2018, 03:50:10 pm
content: Of course you killed it, Dave. The Aneng case says "auto power off" and it did lol

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2018, 07:23:55 pm
content: Quote from: Cliff Matthews on May 15, 2018, 03:42:30 pmMaybe it's luck, or maybe a slight variation on what's inside. Those meters are like DT830s, there's dozens of variants with completely different internals.Quote from: Cliff Matthews on May 15, 2018, 03:42:30 pmMine definitely has a loud beeper. Out of the three pocket meter I own it's the one that feels most like a "real" meter, I justhatethe case and it doesn't do amps (which I want - I don't ever go poking at mains AC with mine).

author: voltlog
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2018, 07:25:44 pm
content: In my video on the ohms range, it can be seen in the video, the insulation tester I used could no keep up with the low impedance of the target and the voltage dropped close to 0 so that test does not help at all. However it's worth noting that on AC/DC voltage the meters had no problem with 1KV applied. I wonder what did Dave use when he applied that AC voltage on the ohms range, was it AC from a wall socket (high energy)? or something generated by one of his power supplies?

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 15, 2018, 09:19:02 pm
content: Quote from: voltlog on May 15, 2018, 07:25:44 pmDoesn't he have a piece of Keithley gear for that? a vintage unit, with big decade knobs etc..?

author: nidlaX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 02:39:49 am
content: It's a shame the Sanwa CD800b / CD800f are so big. It would be awesome if they could fit those specs into the PM300's footprint.

author: voltlog
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 05:10:49 am
content: Quote from: Cliff Matthews on May 15, 2018, 09:19:02 pmThat's why I was wondering which source did he use in this test, because I remember he has one of those voltage sources that could go quite up, it wasn't visible in the video though.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 05:54:07 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on May 16, 2018, 12:20:23 amI agree. At first glance it looks like you have to wind them carefully around the posts but you can just shove them in if you want. Same for the ANENG 101. I really like those style of cases more than the wallets.It's clear Dave likes wallets and pretty much rejected all the ones with amps ranges. His main criteria seem to be CAT rating and loud buzzer.(which is fine - horses for courses, but YMMV)I take mine along to Arduino club a lot and it's good to be able to check the power consumption of people's little circuits. They're mostly USB powered so 400mA with a polyfuse is enough for that.Besides: I noticed the famous Sanwa case never closed properly in the video because wires were sticking outeverytime. I know Dave's looking at a tiny screen and trying to do everything around a tripod, but... it caused a bit of LOL here.

author: bitwelder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 10:18:59 am
content: Quote from: voltlog on May 15, 2018, 07:25:44 pmDidn't he say the AC was 400 Hz ? (so, no wall socket mains)

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 12:05:26 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on May 16, 2018, 05:54:07 amIt also happened to every other meter when you don't bother to store them properly before closing.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 12:05:58 pm
content: Quote from: voltlog on May 16, 2018, 05:10:49 am

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 12:13:24 pm
content: Quote from: Cliff Matthews on May 15, 2018, 03:42:30 pmInsulation testers typically have bugger-all power capability, they don't have the ability to dump a large amount of power into the DUT (and hence any failing protection devices). MY EDC reference can deliver 20W at up the 1KHz up to 1000V

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 12:14:35 pm
content: Quote from: Cnoob on May 15, 2018, 08:06:20 amNo, they are a different class of meter designed for different uses IMO.

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 12:30:19 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on May 16, 2018, 05:54:07 amI noticed that too, but it wasn't worth commenting about because it was obvious Dave didn't lay the leads down properly - which, during a 14 unit shoot-out, isn't hard to understand.As Dave says:Quote from: EEVblog on May 16, 2018, 12:05:26 pm

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 12:35:54 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on May 16, 2018, 12:05:26 pmQuote from: Brumby on May 16, 2018, 12:30:19 pmYes, I know, but itwasquite amusing to watch Dave telling us how great the case is and the case fighting back the whole time.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 03:37:03 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on May 16, 2018, 12:05:26 pmI noticed that my new PM300 did that as well, until I used it after about 20 times and the brand-new cable twisting is almost gone. The trick is to put the probes first into their proper place and then mold the cables behind the tab that holds them in place.

author: TJM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 16, 2018, 05:12:34 pm
content: I've got two UT120C meters bought back in 2013, both with 09/2012 production date on the back. One of them I carry around in a document pouch so it basically goes everywhere with me, mostly to be used every other day at work if needed. The second one is a garage meter. They are quite durable, after 5 years the cases are now definitely less transparent from all the scratches and do not lock properly anymore, but the meters inside still pretty much look almost like new. Of course they both share the same flaw on capacitance (10,15nF minimum reading). Both meters have survived some accidents and they still work fine, so I'd say they were definitely worth buying.Btw, I think the UT120C cases were designed to wind the probe wires around the holders inside instead of just sticking them there. At least it works for me, I've been doing that for years and never had a problem with probes or wires sticking out from the case.

author: triethylene
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 17, 2018, 03:24:39 am
content: I think I had that UT10A as the Tenma 72-7935, I still have the manual but lost the meter in a flood. Kind of an old meter, I don't think they make it anymore.

author: f4eru
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2018, 11:04:48 am
content: Moldy Meters ! We love Moldy Meters here on the EEVBLOG

author: xani
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2018, 05:35:43 pm
content: That Amprobe DM78C kinda looked like bargraph just had insanely high refresh rateBargraph updates the moment Dave touches the outputwhile display updates ~1s later.Kinda looks like sampling speed was in tens or hundreds and bargraph got unfiltered output of that, while display got averaged one

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2018, 09:31:21 am
content: Quote from: f4eru on May 17, 2018, 11:04:48 amNo thanks, crusty meters are easier on the nose

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2018, 08:33:13 pm
content: Where mention of thebatteriesused in these pocket multimeters?I've seen AAA, CR2032, SR44, and 12V A23 batteries used. Some need a tiny Philips screwdriver to access the battery.Since these DMM's are often used in the boonies, a dead battery can be either impossible to find or that screwdriver you left at home is needed.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2018, 08:46:20 pm
content: Quote from: floobydust on May 20, 2018, 08:33:13 pmIn the video...?

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 21, 2018, 05:45:23 am
content: UNI-T UT120C for 7€.In the auction site.Take a look here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/(found-on-the-auction-site)-uni-t-ut120c-7/

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 21, 2018, 06:02:58 am
content: Quote from: xani on May 17, 2018, 05:35:43 pmBargraphs are usually 20/sec updating or so.

author: engineerguy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2018, 10:51:39 am
content: Have you ever heard of this brand of pocket multimeter?https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/digital-multimeters/1336519/The idea is you have one probe clipped on the back, and use that in one hand, with the other probe in your other hand. It seems like it would be an awkward use for bench work, and only seems useful for wall-mounted electronics. I quite like the display though.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2018, 01:20:12 pm
content: Quote from: engineerguy on May 21, 2018, 10:51:39 amIt's usually called a "duspol", it's mostly for electricians. The idea is you don't need three hands to use one when you're standing up and walking around.Lots of companies make them, even Fluke:http://www.fluke.com/fluke/m2en/electrical-testers/electrical-testers/t90-t110-t130-t150-voltage-and-continuity-testers.htm?pid=73757Quote from: engineerguy on May 21, 2018, 10:51:39 amGiven the way you use them I think it would be better if it was readable in the vertical orientation.If you like orange displays you might be interested inAgilent multimeters.

author: engineerguy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2018, 02:04:26 pm
content: Thanks for that. I actually do quite like orange displays!

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2018, 05:27:00 pm
content: Dave made me buy a 2nd Sanwa PM300, how?He cut the price! Got to NY in 10 days, nice job Dave.I’ve seen all the others, own a few, but still think the Sanwa is the nicest. Tucking the cords inside is the only real complaint I have. Super accurate tested on my DMMCHECK Plus.I think I’m DONE buying pocket meters, he said ........

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2018, 06:28:15 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on May 20, 2018, 08:46:20 pmI summarized here:Code:BatteriesBattery CoverEnclosureXB-8662 AAAone screwANENG AN82032 AAAone screwANENG AN101CR2032one screwUni-T UT10ACR2032-one screwmetal insertUni-T UT120B/120CCR2032-one screwmetal insertJaycar QM1544two LR44-one screwmetal insertSanwa PM3CR2032-one screwmetal insertBrymen BM22/Amprobe PM51CR2032-one screwmetal insertKyoritsu KEW1018two LR44one screwmetal insertHioki 3244-50 CARD HiTesterCR2032-one screwmetal insertAmprobe DM78Ctwo LR44one screwDER EE DE-19S2 AAAone screwmetal insertSanwa PM300CR2032-one screwmetal insert

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2018, 08:53:53 pm
content: Does anyone know where I could buy a set of the small test probes that come with these pocket meters?I've had a Metex P10 for years and it's not a bad little meter (built in 1.5v battery tester!) but inevitably one of the wires broke at the top of one of the probes where it gets bent the most. I've bodged a repair by cutting back the plastic and soldering the break and protecting it with some heatshrink, but I'd rather replace the probes/leads if I can.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2018, 09:23:03 pm
content: Quote from: mikerj on May 29, 2018, 08:53:53 pmAttached to one of the meters...?If you want to repair a favorite meter then a lot of the meters in this thread cost about $10. Snip the leads off one!

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2018, 09:40:06 pm
content: Quote from: mikerj on May 29, 2018, 08:53:53 pmYou could try Frankys thread on this site here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/franky_s-sales-thread/Or his online store here:https://www.ebay.com/str/99centhobbiesIf you find small enough ones for your pocket meter, just cut the ends off.

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2018, 10:27:13 am
content: Quote from: Fungus on May 29, 2018, 09:23:03 pmA $10 meter for $1 test leads to fix a meter that's probably worth rather less than $10 doesn't add up for me. I like the meter, but I'm not that sentimental about it!Edit: Having said that it seems you can pick up apocket meterfor under $5 shipped from China which is ridiculous, but a possible solution so thanks!Quote from: MacMeter on May 29, 2018, 09:40:06 pmThanks I'll take a look, though I spent a good 20 minutes on eBay to no avail. I suppose most people would just bin the whole thing and buy a new one. If it comes it I'll wire in a full sized pair of probes, I just won't be able to store them in the holder.

author: malagas_on_fire
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2018, 11:13:04 am
content: I've received one of these meters as a gift, it was the uni-t 120C in chrismas.The 10nF residual capacitance is present, which not so good, but in terms off voltage reading, frequecy, even capacitors >= 100nF is quite in spec. Has nice digits and some diode protection, PTC, clamps and a polyfuse for current, which is usefull for low power apps ( microcontroller). I do like the plastic case, keeps from been poked by the leeds. I carry on my bag as an extra.About the review, the Sanwa seems very nice and best value for the money, but has the rotary switch that pertrudes a bit towards the case and can be pressed if using in your trousers pocket.PS.: The continuity for the uni-t 120C is bad :S

author: malagas_on_fire
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2018, 11:18:47 am
content: Quote from: malagas_on_fire on June 08, 2018, 11:13:04 amHere are some photos of first power on and inside, for checking battery, signs of corrosion, etc.

author: osteichthyes
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2018, 08:14:29 am
content: Quote from: EEVblog on May 14, 2018, 01:02:34 amThe code seems to not be working. Did I miss the sale?

author: Technobabble_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2018, 02:47:35 pm
content: Is Ebay the only place to purchase the Sanwa PM3 multimeter? I don't see any other US suppliers. If so, does anybody recommend a specific Ebay store/seller?

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2018, 04:03:55 pm
content: Quote from: Technobabble_ on September 22, 2018, 02:47:35 pmhttps://www.eevblog.com/product/pm300/

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2018, 05:10:14 pm
content: Quote from: Technobabble_ on September 22, 2018, 02:47:35 pmAmazon US:https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Meter-Digital-Multimeter-multi-function/dp/B01D40L6AU