Talk to me about JBC irons - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 09:13:15 pm
content: My latest design is through hole with copper pour on both sides. The pads are a little too small and the thermal reliefs are a little too thick. I'll fix it on the next spin, but I have to get through the 100 I have. I'm through about 30 of them. I'm itching for a new toy anyway!My main iron is older Hakko FP-102. I'm thinking of picking up a JBC. Just how much better is the JBC than the Hakko in terms of pumping heat into a board? I have to solder much of the board at 700 degrees, and lately I've been just leaving it on 750, which is what Kester recommends for their 44 solder anyhow, but I'd love to be able to do all of this at 650, which is where I usually am for all the other work I do.From what I gather, the JBC will blow away my Hakko in performance, especially on the grounds connected to the copper pour. I have no experience with the JBC, however. I'm also looking at Pace. I would love to give Pace my business because I like to buy from my own country if I can, but as I understand it the JBC trounces the Pace irons as well....and Metcal too. Are they really THAT much better than everyone else?

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 09:33:01 pm
content: Wait... Kester really recommends 750F (400C) for lead-based solder?I usually do everything at 300C...

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 09:33:56 pm
content: Haven't used the JBC personally, but I have several Pace stations at work and a couple of Metcals. Honestly, I prefer the Pace to the Metcals... that's why we have more Pace... got one when a Metcal died and need something in a pinch, and found the Pace's better overall, so started buying those.I have some boards with 2oz copper pours and some pretty beefy inductors mounted on them, and the Pace handles it no problem, provided you have the right tip (obviously a fine tip for QFN's ain't gonna cut it).I've been itching for a new toy as well and looked at the JBC's... lots of people like them, although a few folks have said the Weller WXMP (sp?) system is actually superior.There are a few electronics/assembly shows around and I've seen all the different brands there for demo... might be worth checking if any are in your area if thinking of putting up the $$$$.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 09:39:25 pm
content: Set the soldering station to 330 deg. C and use a bigger tip. Most problems with soldering are related to an under sized tip. Cranking up the temperature only burns the flux faster and cause the solder not to flow nicely.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 09:46:39 pm
content: Quote from: c4757p on July 28, 2013, 09:33:01 pmSurprising, huh? I was surprised myself. It's in their Knowledge Base in the FAQ. They recommend 750 (400C for the weirdos out there) for hand soldering with rosin based fluxes, and they specifically call out #44. I'd much prefer 600 or 650 myself.Hey cool!!! I just noticed that Kester updated their site. Welcome to the year 2000

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 09:54:10 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on July 28, 2013, 09:39:25 pmTip is the biggest I can use...it's the size of the pad. Any larger, and I'm on the copper pour, and that completely defeats the purpose. It's like pouring water on it. The Hakko is just simply not responding quickly enough. I'm to the point where I can time everything just perfectly to get the joint done properly and get good flow through, but it doesn't seem ideal. The real problem is I need a larger pad and thinner thermal reliefs. I haven't really had to design a products from scratch and do everything myself, from concept to artwork to PCB design to assembly, marketing, etc etc. This is my first shrink wrapped product that is 100% my doing, so I was bound to botch up several things, and these couple of details on the board are wrong. I didn't follow industry standards...I just winged it, and it's incorrect and difficult to work with now.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 10:06:23 pm
content: BUY THE JBC! You will never look back. It really is that good. It even converted Dave and I didn't think that was going to happen. Get a "high thermal efficiency super cartridge tip" also.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 10:08:40 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on July 28, 2013, 10:06:23 pmWhat iron did you step up to the JBC from?Do you have any experience with the Pace setups or the Metcals? Or the Weller WXMP? If so, how would you compare them?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 11:11:17 pm
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on July 28, 2013, 10:08:40 pmWeller WTCPQuote from: Corporate666 on July 28, 2013, 10:08:40 pmNo experience with Pace or Metcal and I amnotsaying they are not good irons. But you get adjustable temperature with the JBC vs the Metcal and one hand tip change. If the Pace is still the setscrew tip I don't see how it can compete with a closely coupled heater/sensor/tip of the JBC. I am not the only JBC fan on the forum

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 11:16:42 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on July 28, 2013, 11:11:17 pmDon't get me wrong, I am not knocking the JBC - seems most love them. But Pace seems to be a huge company and used a lot in industry, but not many seem to have experience with them. I like the Pace over the Metcal... people talk about the Metal's ability to maintain heat and inability to overshoot by the laws of physics, but I've never noticed any benefit to that in production. I do notice the Pace heats up just as quick, or quicker, the tips last infinitely longer (was buying Metcal tips every couple of months - bought 20 Pace tips and not a single one has ever worn out despite daily use for 2-3 years now). And the Pace tips are $7 compared to $20-30 Metcal tips.I'm just wondering if I am missing out by not having a JBCI'd hate to get it and think it's no better than my Pace, almost as much as I'd hate not to have it if it's really substantially better.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 11:19:56 pm
content: I am sure Dave has used Pace before and probably many others on the forum. Maybe they will give some input once they see this thread.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 11:29:58 pm
content: I have the Metcal and several Wellers (not the WXMP?) *we got rid of our production Wellers after their quality turned tosheet. I also have every JBC series, including the HD. Even with the "lowest" model, I solder small pads in 8oz copper,which is most our products. Power delivery is awesome, and you can keep Temperatures to a minimum. The tip range isalso unmatched.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 11:32:58 pm
content: Quote from: digsys on July 28, 2013, 11:29:58 pmGood to know.So price being no object and you could choose anything you want, you would go with JBC in a heartbeat over the Metcals it seems?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 11:35:39 pm
content: Can you get this tip or set it to 260degC on a Metcal?

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 11:52:18 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on July 28, 2013, 11:35:39 pmI don't have that tip, not sure if you can get it for the Metcal. The only thing I don't like about the Pace's are that when you are using larger tips (like made for SOIC's or heat staking), the base unit is obviously pumping energy to the tip, and the handpiece gets quite toasty hot, especially at the end... to the point of getting uncomfortably hot if you are - say - reworking 50 boards that you need to pull SOIC's from.How hot does the JBC get in that kind of usage?Sorry for so many questions, I am trying to convince myself I really need one of these JBC's

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 12:08:07 am
content: I don't do nonstop production but I have never felt the handle get warm at all. I usually have it set for 330C and it sleeps at 150C. IMO there is absolutely no sense in bumping the temp up for higher demand joints. The JBC is designed to maintain the temp by pumping up to 130W into the LOW thermal mass tip very quickly as needed.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 12:14:23 am
content: Quote from: Corporate666I only had one engineer that preferred the Metcal, I personally didn't like the "feel", the range of tips and tip swapping.Once you select your tip and power level and set the temperature to what is safe for the components, it will deliverthat Temp for hours on end. No over-heating at all. The 2 stage sleep / snooze with very fast re-start means the tipslast a LONG time. On our big jobs, we have gone from monthly to 8-12 months !!I can swap a 0.5mm tip to a 5mm tip on an 8oz PCB in seconds and BOTH at 330C, then straight to a 1oz single sided.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 12:16:11 am
content: Quote from: robrenz on July 28, 2013, 11:35:39 pmYes - a very similar one - SMTC1162 from memory. They do some even wider ones that use two PSUs. .

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 12:25:09 am
content: But you can't set it to 260C

author: stormbr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 12:26:42 am
content: This is not good for you ?http://www.tequipment.net/HakkoFM203_Combo.htmlJBC soldering and desoldering kit (with electrical pump) is more ou less 4.000,00 u$, but this is a dream of consume.i'll wait the price down.

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 01:46:36 am
content: I have been a Hakko fan for many years, then I bought my dream JBC station. The JBC 130Watts indeed surpass the performance of the common 60watts 936. I even set mine to 80watts limited power. But the price is many fold difference. I can live without the JBC, my Hakko works fine. If you are having issues soldering thick copper pcbs, I suggest JBC high thermal efficiency tips. The regular ones are less macho.I really like the JBC for its lightweight and thin flexible cable, short tips for better control and only slightly warm handle during summer time. This takes away fatigue, it's really like writing with a heavy ink pen.I don't fully rely on soldering iron when it comes to heavyweight soldering, I use a preheater. I have a hotplate and a hotair preheat jig. It helps the soldering iron and speed up the process.Heating large area copper mass means lots of power generated at the tip equals shorter tip life, no thank you.

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 02:05:46 am
content: Quote from: nukie on July 29, 2013, 01:46:36 amAbout 10% of the energy supplied by the controller gets dissipated in that skinny cable

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 02:51:56 am
content: Quote from: RufusIf that was the case, you'd expect the cable to be warm, especially on our 250W units, but they sure don't (just rechecked).Has anyone done an IR drop to confirm?

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 02:59:54 am
content: Quote from: stormbrI have a review coming that compares the JBC desoldering station against the Hakko FM204 (sames as FM203) and 474.MY results are surprising !!!!!

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 03:27:10 am
content: I'll measure the voltage drop on the cable when I get the handle apart.Quote from: digsys on July 29, 2013, 02:51:56 am

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 03:31:51 am
content: Quote from: digsys on July 29, 2013, 02:51:56 amA T245 hand piece measures 250m ohm round trip. 245 cartridges that I have measure 2.2 to 2.6 ohms.Keeping a 245 cartridge at 300C takes less than 5% of maximum power, so unless you are continuously soldering copper pipes the cable of your 250W iron is dissipating 10% of a lot less than 250W.edit: A while ago I considered getting some JBC cartridges and hand piece (because they are what make the iron) and adapting a cheaper controller to drive them. I ended up buying a whole iron but carried on with a DIY controller design for fun when I have spare time. For that reason I have looked closely at the cartridges and hand piece.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 03:40:58 am
content: OK, I think I'm convinced. I would love to get the modular ones but for what I'm doing at the moment, it's a bit out of my price range. I will regret this decision when I decide I need a desolder station too, and I'll kick myself for not having the dual option....but when I get to that point, I won't care about the price. $400 for the JBC compact unit is about right for me. I think that the compact has the same power and controls as the higher end units, right? I really hate that it's an all in one unit, but I'll liveThanks for the input, everyone.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 04:11:16 am
content: Quote from: John ColocciaThere's a reasonable range of tips for the T210 station, 2 irons, 1 micro tweezer and solder feeder.You can simply buy the tools and NOT worry about the holder part. They work fine. Just means they won't sit perfect in the holder,but that's ALL ! Actually, I've swapped the metal end part of the holder around and it's FINE. So all you really need to do is makeyour own top metal piece and connect the E wire.The Compacts don't have as much power as the modular line, but I rarely notice any difference when I switch constantly between irons.Right now I suggest youDON'Tworry about the de-soldering part !! I have a review coming up, it's not kind AT ALL.

author: stormbr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 04:12:33 am
content: Quote from: digsys on July 29, 2013, 02:59:54 amGreat job, i'm waiting for good news.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 04:59:50 am
content: Quote from: digsys on July 29, 2013, 04:11:16 amI thought they were all 130W. I intended on getting the T245 handpiece. I know the T210 is limited to 40W, I think.re: desolderingIt's not like I need it. I mean, I never make mistakes so what's the point?

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 05:05:15 am
content: Quote from: Rufus on July 29, 2013, 03:31:51 amAs an aside, what sort of power does the base unit put out? volts/amps? DC I'm sure... just a straight signal or some sort of PWM?

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 05:17:30 am
content: Quote from: John ColocciaIt's a bit confusing - what is in the specs and what I can SET isn't always the same. Luckily, what I can set is always higher.PLUS, I have units from different batches, and they differ 10-20W, but again always higher.I'm not at the workshop, but I'm almost 100% certain, the lowest I've seen is 80W (definitely not less), on the smallest iron.120-150W is the average.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 05:21:26 am
content: Quote from: Corporate666That would be a question for Rufo. I have a feeling, either he or someone else, has published those specs in these forums (forii ?sp)

author: mikgntl-2013
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 08:49:55 am
content: According to published specs, the output peak power is 130W (23.5V) for both the compact series (CD-2BX) and the single-tool modular unit (DI-2B).

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 12:54:32 pm
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on July 29, 2013, 05:05:15 amThe output is complete half mains cycles with very close to zero volt switching.Power rating is a little vague, it is just a transformer and so is capable of substantial short term overload.The CD and DIT single controllers are specified at 75W 'normal' and 140W 'peak'. The transformer is more 75VA size than 140VA. I have seen a CD controller pull more than 170W from the mains while warming up.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 04:26:07 pm
content: Well, Janel has $500 of my hard earned dollars. I'll report back when I take it for a spin. They're right in New Jersey, I think. I should have the iron by the end of the week at the latest....probably Weds. or so if they ship today.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 04:40:35 pm
content: Wow...less than a day and already 3 pages and nearly 450 views. Who knew a solder station would be such a hot topic?A solder station shootout would be interesting. I'm sure Dave has enough electronic geek friends that he should be able to dig up everything from the crappiest Radio Shack piece of junk to the nicest Pace mega-super-station giant thing.

author: roli_bark
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 04:56:17 pm
content: Quote from: digsys on July 29, 2013, 02:59:54 amDid you already post the comparison, or plan to?

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 05:11:26 pm
content: You know, one thing that I DON'T like about the JBC is their tip sizes. They jump from 1.2mm to 1.8mm for the 245 tip. I would have loved to see something in between. Oh well. Minor gripe

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 05:25:24 pm
content: C245-405 is high thermal efficiency super cartridge 1.5mm bevel tipC245-905 is regular 1.5mm bevel tipC245-259 is bent 1.5mm tipC245-064 is 1.3mm tinned hoof tip

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 05:39:43 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on July 29, 2013, 05:25:24 pmYes, you're right...I'm sorry. I mostly use chisel tips....really almost exclusively use chisel tips.What I ordered was the CD-1BC (which comes with a 2.4mm high thermal chisel), and I then added the -759 (regular 2.4mm chisel), the -944 (1.8mm chisel) and the -806 (1.2mm chisel). -759 is backordered....no big deal.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 05:52:31 pm
content: My absolute favorite tip forgeneraluse is the C245-963 bent chisel. It allows you to lay the large face of the chisel against your larger work for greater heat transfer. I also fits between pins of large solder cup connectors and you can get the large face against the side of the cups. Once you get used to it it is very versatile. It's obviously not for small smd work.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 06:42:08 pm
content: I've got a few JBC irons of differing types, as well as a lot of Metcals and a few Pace irons. I'm moving house tomorrow so it may be a week or two to organize something, but I'll try and get something done.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 07:35:20 pm
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on July 28, 2013, 10:08:40 pmMy idea exactly. I have used JBC irons extensively at my previous employer and wouldn't trade my Ersa irons if someone gave me a JBC with a lifetime supply of tips and $1000 cash.

author: PA4TIM
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 08:23:54 pm
content: I have a Weller WS81 , since a few days an Oki HCT-900 and since a few years a Pace MB250 with tweezers, desolder iron and solder iron (and found out after I ordered the Oki there is a airpencil for my Pace, should have known that before) and indeed the handpieces get warm. The solder iron is not a problem but it is a bit bulky, non the less I use it a lot. I like it very much. Even with a very small tip it gets everything together. Use the weller if the space is limitted. The tweezers are set at 380 degrees and get so hot they are sometimes hard to hold ( I do not have the original tips, use some homemades, probably with original tips it works fine at 320 degrees like the Iron). The desolderiron also gets warm but not unplesant.I never jused a JBC but you only hear good things about them.Pace has a whole series tutorials about (de)soldering made in 1982, old but still very usable and they go very deep.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 08:28:06 pm
content: My Hakko FP-102 iron gets warm too. It's not to the point that I"m burning myself, but I wish it were cooler.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 10:27:26 pm
content: Quote from: roli_barkMost pix are done, should be done this weekend.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2013, 12:00:40 am
content: OK....it will actually be here tomorrow. We'll see how it goes. Thanks everyone for all the input. I'm pretty excited to see how this thing performs.

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2013, 02:46:59 pm
content: Quote from: digsys on July 29, 2013, 10:27:26 pmI'm looking forward to reading this. I own an Ersa iCon iron and like the other Ersa user, I wouldn't give it up for anything. I understand the JBC is on pretty much equal footing, although I like the feel of the Ersa hand piece better. They are both outstanding products, IMO. If you've found some interesting revelations, you've intrigued me, lol.

author: mikgntl-2013
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2013, 09:15:15 pm
content: Quote from: John Coloccia on July 30, 2013, 12:00:40 amYou can't go wrong with JBC equipment. You will be impressed for sure by its quality and performance.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2013, 09:52:16 pm
content: It's here. I haven't had a chance to really play with it yet, but from the little bit of fooling around I've done I think I made a VERY wise decision. Very wise, indeed.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 30, 2013, 10:09:56 pm
content: Quote from: John ColocciaGreat news. Hint: Whatever you do - IF you change the pin code# .. DON'T forget it !!!!!

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 01:43:19 am
content: This a picture of a few JBC tips, I added the Hakko 936 heater element for a size comparison.The top is the 40W T210 series tip, it has very short working distance, and a dream to use while soldering smd. How they pack heating element, thermocouple in there, I have no idea... It's the pinnacle of miniaturisation for soldering ironNext we have the macho looking high thermal efficiency chisel tip for the T245 series.Then a regular 0.5mm conical tip, I use this most because I am used to conical.I notice that JBC tips have larger radius soldering point compared to their specs.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 12:14:47 pm
content: I've now built a couple of boards with the JBC. Here are my thoughts, and some of them are surprising:1) This is a hell of a nice iron. It was worth the $500 just for the much better ergonomics. Probably the best I've ever used.2) I love being able to program in 3 preset temperatures. VERY convenient instead of having to scroll up and down3) It does a truly excellent job of pumping heat into a joint, and that's really the bottom line. This thing WORKS.4) The cable holder is brilliant. I can't begin to tell you how great it is to not have all that cable getting tangled up and weighing down the iron.That said, I have to add that it doesn't blow away my Hakko. It certainly performs better, and that's what I needed, but it's not like my jaw is on the ground in awe. I think this is a testament to just how good the Hakkos really are, but the JBC's performance is superior in every way. I'm now able to solder up these boards at 650. I still overdrive at 750 for the heavy ground copper poor, but if I had the proper sized pads I probably wouldn't need to do that either.So I'm very satisfied. If I need to buy more stations, they will be JBC moving forward unless I'm really on a budget...then it will be back to Hakko.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 12:32:01 pm
content: Very glad youdidn'tfeel misled

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2013, 01:52:20 am
content: OK, so a little more follow up. The tips are a little strange. The chisel tips are very thick at the ends and take some getting accustomed to. I cancelled the 2.4 skinny tip and replaced with a 2.2mm high thermal capacity tip. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but I'm figuring out how to use their tips and this thing DOES toss quite a bit more heat into the work.I wish they would come out with a 1.8mm or 1.6mm high thermal capacity tip. I sent them an e-mail about that. 2.2 is just a bit too big for through hole, and 1.2mm is just far too small. Maybe they'll make me one? I don't know.The tips are shaped such that I can get excellent contact with the tips on their side. I've done that before with other irons, but that works particularly well with the JBC tips. Now that I've updated my technique to match the equipment, I'm getting far better performance. Wit the proper sized tip, performance would be even better.I also took the time to redesign my board. The new board has more reasonable thermal relief trace widths, and while I kept the copper pour both sides, only the bottom side is actually connected to ground. The holes and pads now conform to industry guidelines too...they were just far too small the last time. I eyeballed it...I should have done a bit more research, but it's workable. The next batch of boards will be a piece of cake to solder.Let me also give a huge thumbs up to Janel. I wish every supplier were this easy to work with. I made a couple of changes on this order....first, I added something something to the order, and a day or two ago I asked to change my back ordered part to an in stock part. Both changes took nothing but a simple e-mail to execute...no problem, no drama, and everything keeps showing up on my doorstep much sooner than I would expect. I got one e-mail response back at 1:00am. I read it at 2:00am, which is when I finally stopped working for the night. These guys are 100% pro and they work every bit as hard as I work, plus their prices are good. Moving forward, I will purchase everything I possibly can through them.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2013, 02:03:03 am
content: My experience also, Janel is excellent.

author: stormbr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2013, 01:30:05 am
content: I'll consider the purchase a jbc iron for me too.I have only 800,00 u$ in my pocket, what the best station of solder with this money ?I wanna too have a desoldering station, but is overpriced for my condition today.Anybody recommed online stores ?

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2013, 02:45:44 pm
content: The JBC is a great station, but it's expensive. Personally, I would try to find a Hakko FX-888 (not the D version but that's my preference). Hakko makes a wonderful station at a fraction of the price of the JBC. I had my labs outfitted with Hakko stations. I'm doing production work now for my business, building 100 boards at a time. The Hakko was OK, but I wanted something that could pump more heat into the joint quickly without over driving, and I also wanted the convenience of the quick change tips, the digital readout of actual tip temperature, and the lighter, more comfortable hand piece, the cable management, etc, because I'm doing it 12 hours a day trying to get ready for a new product launch.Tip life is also important to me. Each unit is about 120 joints, ranging from delicate and oxidized Germanium diodes to heavy duty soldering of PCB mount control pot mounting legs. That's 12,000 joints each run. JBC claims their tips are good for 25,000 to 100,000 joints, and I know their tips last much longer than most because of the cool down. However good the Hakko tips are, and they are VERY good and have outlasted everything else I've used so far, I was already starting to see degradation of the tip after the first 30 units. The tip is still usable but it's definitely showing wear and would have to be replaced fairly soon. They also oxidize so quickly because it sits in the holder for 5 minutes baking while I prepare the next group of components to be soldered, and it's a pain in the butt to keep doing a ritualistic cleaning when you're trying to work quickly. The JBC iron cools down and it take but a second or two to bring it back to dead clean and new condition.My opinion is that unless you have money to burn, or you really just want the JBC because it's cool, get the Hakko. To give an idea, my first Hakko tips lasted 10 years of hobbyist and guitar building use. These days, I probably do more soldering in one or two days than most hobbyists do all year. You can get the JBC later. It's always good to have two solder stations anyhow. If you do have the money to burn, though, the JBC is fantastic.That's just my opinion.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2013, 09:05:12 pm
content: Quote from: stormbr on August 04, 2013, 01:30:05 amWhere are you located?If in the US for example, you'd be able to get both a Hakko 808 Desoldering tool and a JBC Compact station with money left over for tips (comes with 2; one round, one chisel). Modular series of JBC would put you ~$830, so out of your listed budget unless you can adjust to compensate.120V versionsHakko 808:http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Desoldering-Kit-With-808/dp/B000ARPULWJBC CD-1BC:http://www.janelonline.com/jbc-tools-soldering-station-cd-1bc-p/jbc-tools-cd-1bc.htmBTW, Janel also sells 230V versions and ships internationally (swap the 1 for a 2 in the model number).

author: stormbr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2013, 06:35:55 pm
content: I've very problems with the maintenance of old boards.I'll bought a hakko station and make more money to purchase my JBC station after.Or i bought just the sodering station JBC (entry level model).Thanks my friends by your review and experience, i live in Brazil and work with maintenance of elevators.

author: Christopher
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2013, 07:56:07 pm
content: The JBC is really, really nice. I thought it'd be another iron. Not the case, much better than Metcals, Hakko etc. Trust me it's worth it

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2013, 04:04:02 am
content: I have to agree with the above post regarding JBC tips life. While the heater last almost indefinitely, the tip coating is questionable. I have original tips from my Hakko 936 and a few more which I bought and abused more than a decade, they are still fine. Some of the Chinese made tips which I employ for lead free use is starting to have copper eaten away below the iron plating but they still hold up quite well despite the pitting.I inherited some of the earlier 2245 tips used and I have a couple of C245 tips I find that the older 2245 tips are terrible they don't stay 'wet' for long and requires frequent cleaning. Not sure if they are heavily used or because the iron plating is worn. The new C245 tips behave better but still not as good as Hakko tips, the JBC C245 tips oxidise more rapid. I made sure that the actual temperature is close to one another and I use leaded solder most of the time.So I have come to a conclusion that Hakko tips have a superior plating and it stays wet longer.