hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
DIY KVM USB Sharing Switch Control Multiple Computers From One Set of USB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Kedar264
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2016, 09:12:48 am
content: This DIY KVM USB switch ("Keyboard, Video and Mouse") is a hardware device that allows a user to control multiple computers from one set of keyboards, video monitors, and mice. Although multiple computers are connected to the KVM, typically only one computers can be controlled at any given time. Modern devices have also added the ability to share other peripherals like USB devices and audio Etc.If You use 2 computers at one desk , its really tricky to use same set of keyboard and mouse on both of the computers, to solve this problem this is my quick design of USB Switch which will let you connect same usb peripherals to both of your computers all of the required parts can be easily salvaged from old electronics1.So i Connected 5v and Ground of Both Male Usb's in parellel so either ofthe pc can power the usb port2.Data lines of Both Usb ports will be toggled by an DPDT Switch (EASY)3.Enjoy !Here is The Video Showing How it Works ! & How To Make !https://youtu.be/Sll3dYmzRqY

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 29, 2016, 02:03:44 pm
content: You bought the HDMI switch, why not just buy one with USB and audio?? (has the advantage of using as soft-key to toggle as well)Also, putting two PC's 5V rails in parallel is via USB not a good idea.. risky hacks like this should at least use resistors (one PC could have 5.15v and other may have 4.90v). Most MB have a 500ma fuse-link per port, but this is not good KVM solution (software solutions exist too).
DIY lab bench power supply onboard potentiometer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dclevy1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2017, 02:29:26 am
content: So I'm in the process of converting this computer power supply unit into a lab bench power supply. I know this power supply gives off 12v of course at the a 12v rail. But I noticed there are two potentiometers built-in on the board and no 12v sense location anywhere in sight. So my question is will I be able to alter these potentiometers to get more than 12v from the 12v rail?I do know on some power supplies if you add a potentiometer from the 12 volt sense to the ground you will be able to get a 1 to 2 volt increase on the 12v rail.Much needed help thank you and sorry for the ignorance I am new to thisSent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

author: prasimix
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 01, 2017, 05:49:12 am
content: There is a small chance that proposed approach could work satisfactory, that mean that you can change output voltage to some great extend (e.g. up to 20V and down to 1-2V). Even if that works, sooner or later you'll learn a bitter lesson how ability to set max. output current is equally and sometimes even more important then regulating output voltage (that could save a day many times!). Without that power supply cannot be called (lab) bench power supply. But what you try to do could be a good first step toward bench power supply, but forget in that case a weekend hacking of old PC power supply.

author: dclevy1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2017, 07:45:31 am
content: Quote from: prasimix on April 01, 2017, 05:49:12 amThank you very much for your reply. Do you think there is a specific one I should touch because there are two of them?Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

author: dclevy1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2017, 08:54:02 am
content: Quote from: dclevy1 on April 01, 2017, 07:45:31 amOkay after messing around with these two potentiometers it turns out they don't alter the voltage at all it doesn't seem like they do anything pertaining to the 12 volt rail. After thinking about this I had another power supply that had two potentiometers as well on the board the only thing that was different with this board is that it had a 3.3 rail as well as a 5 volt rail. After messing with the potentiometers on this board it did alter everything but the 12v rail so I was able to alter the 3.3 as well as the 5 volt at about plus or minus .3 volts but they 12 volt was unchanged. So after all of this is there something on this board I can actually modify to get more than 12.31 voltsSent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
Diy Linear 12v +/- PSU, tle2426 chip? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rwgast_lowlevellogicdesin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2015, 09:10:01 pm
content: If I were to use a 2amp 24v transformer and then use thehttp://www.ti.com/product/tle2426to make a virtual ground split, am I going to blow this chip up? Does the power used flow back through the TI chip or the real ground?

author: jitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2015, 09:28:53 pm
content: Take a look at the datasheet.We're talking about a low power device (+/- 80 mA absolute max.) with protection. If the max. dissipation is not exceeded, a short circuit can exist for an unlimited amount of time.IMHO, it's unlikely that you would blow it up (assuming correct use).It's the TI chip that creates the split rail with a virtual ground. The return path of the current will be to the chip. But of course the power comes from the transformer, so ultimately current wil flow between the chip and the transformer, depending on how much is drawn from the chip.

author: grenert
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2015, 04:21:48 pm
content: The TI rail splitter chip can only handle loads of 20mA max. So, it won't hold the virtual ground if you exceed that. A discussion is here:https://www.cavalliaudio.com/diy/cth/main.php?page=design/spdesignYou can rig up a similar circuit with an opamp. If you pick a high-current opamp, then you can create your own rail splitter with higher capacity:http://tangentsoft.net/elec/vgrounds.htmlI've done both with good results.
DIY Lion packs - 'Vruzend' (comments or anyone using them?) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 07:03:40 pm
content: Just asking in case anyone's had poor results with the design. I see 2 possible design issues at first glance:1) Each end cap applies pressure to the cells end-cap via sprung mechanism (is this trustworthy >2 amps?)2) Some previously spot-welded cells have (+) point inset with a small circular gap distance to the (-) wrap of case.(can this kind of sprung mechanism move or vibrate to the side and short a cell?)Each kit has enough parts for 54 cellsat $40 USD (so not really an earth shattering price point..)Julian Ilett short review -https://youtu.be/qLXG3pR5teg

author: jbb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 12:44:08 am
content: I haven’t used them, but I would be very worried about vibration causing increased contact resistance for any kind of mobile use.If you have a high resistance contact on the -ve end of a cell, it might get hot enough to make the vent open. Or even hot enough to experience a “thermal event.”

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 08:31:42 am
content: Have not used them either.Agree with jjb.Commercial packs are spot welded for a reason !!!Maintain contact. Minimise contact resistance. Immunity from vibration etc.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 09:38:41 am
content: https://www.indiamart.com/ruzen-inc/solderless-kit.html#vruzend-solderles-kit-v2-1About 14 GBP for the 2.1 set, although I could not find what exactly is in a set.[Edit: Just click full details]Each box of the orange and black V2.1 comes with enough components for 30 cells.Contents of each box are* 60 terminal caps with Nickel coated pure COPPER internal contacts. (30 orange and 30 black)* 60 Nuts* 80 Nickel coated pure COPPER bus bars for the Series and parallel connections* 4 Nickel coated pure copper clamps for your terminal wires.* 8 Barrel bolts for clamping the opposite ends together.
Diy micro digital fpv system help needed! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: StillNotAnEngineer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 18, 2018, 08:50:12 am
content: Hey I need a bit of help in my digital fpv project!My goal is to make a video link with more range and encryption. Channel jumping for avoidinginterference would also be nice feature. I just don't know which parts I need and how to usevideo encoders..M-JPEG might be good for a fail proof system, but it needs more bandwidth. Maybe multichannelparallel transmitter would be good?H264 needs a better connection to work. A 2-way link might be needed to tell the transmitter to lowerquality when going out of range.Hardware should be less than 10grams and parts under 30$ for the transmitter. Light and cheaparm SBC with h264 encoding is necessary. If I have understood right, some of them don't have enoughdocumentation on how to use the encoder engine so I need help to find a chip and documentation for it.Low part count is ideal for light weight solution. No money for 8 layer pcb and micro quadcoptershould be able to carry it. So integrated ram would be nice.Potential chips I have found are V3s and AK3918. V3s is used in blueperry pi and lichee pi. Ak3918 inbanana pi d1. Both have features I don't need and are harder to get. I need to design a bit smallerpcb and add few injection cabable wlan chips. Also code?Any resources and help are appreciated.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2018, 03:31:59 pm
content: How about NanoPi Neo Air?With software encoding I think you could do far better than with hardware encoding with a few tweaks, since you have low latency bidirectional communication. With a proper bidirectional protocol you can deal with packetloss far better than standard methods. For instance you can increase FEC depending on packetloss, re-request MBs as long as the display deadline hasn't been reached, without acknowledgement have the encoder not use MBs as a reference etc.
DIY micro soldering iron (micopencil) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: fable
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2016, 11:50:37 pm
content: Hi guys.I needed a micropencil soldering iron to reach some tight place.I decided to make one fast.I looked around found this which wold do the tricka glow plug from diesel engine and i think its from citroen or peugeot.I took some copper wire and wrap it on tip and connected it to bench psu 12V 5A over a relay and a micro switch.It worked amazingly well, it heats up in 3-4 sek and it's ready for solder melting .I made my job done so at the end i make a wooden handlesorry for bad english.

author: frogblender
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2018, 02:44:28 pm
content: PICTURE!!! (please!)
DIY microphone receiver for custom AV controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: okw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2025, 10:37:11 am
content: The short question: Is it possible to DIY a receiver for Sennheiser/Shure or similar high-end microphones? I know they operate between 470-694 MHz, but do they use proprietary protocols, encoders/decoders, frequency hopping, etc.? Is it feasible (cost, time, etc) or is a "high-end" China-mic my best bet (which probably have simpler interfaces)?Backstory:I'm currently designing an AV controller, which selects input (line), controls the volume, treble and bass, and outputs the signal (line).It also turns on/off the projector and brings the projector screen up/down. Might also control the lights wirelessly (433MHz).For the input selection I was first thinking relays, but then read CD4066 is almost as good.I also want to mix in a microphone, so people can talk over music in presentations, etc. For this I'm designing a simple unbalanced virtual earth mixer with NE5534.I could of course put together 4-5 units (each controlling it's own things), or bought an expensive all-in-one, but where's the fun and learning in that...

author: Uunoctium
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2025, 11:39:53 am
content: As far as i know, Sennheise wireless (elder versions) eg SKM 2000, SKM 5000, SK20xx are all FM modulated with a deviation of +-24 and max +- 48kHz. They working on fixed frequencies, adjustable at eg SKM after removing the battery.One fact is, that Senneheiser uses an own proprietary compander system (Sennheiser HDX), which could be complicated to expand the right way.They also introduced an pure digital transmission system which uses frequency hopping. Little to nothing known about codec and modulation.A couple of years ago German broadcasters lost some bands in spectrum to Telcos. So there is a chance, to fetch up used receivers for a small budget, which could be used further without problems in neighbour countrys. A candidate maybe is the EM100.Bands are splitted into small slots*, are model specific and can't be altered.An alternative to Sennheiser is IMG StageLine. Has similar Rx/Tx equipment and their single channel receiver looks very similar to Sennheiser's EM100*(Aw:516 – 558 MHzBw: 626 – 698 MHzCw: 718 – 790 MHzDw: 790 – 865 MHzGw: 558 – 626 MHzGBw:606 – 678 MHz )
DIY night vision mask a la oblivion - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: stoppi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 07:14:11 pm
content: Hello!Inspired by the movie "Oblivion" with Tom Cruise I tinkered a marauder-mask with some gadgets and Gimmicks like a working IR night Vision Equipment and orange LED's. I hope you like itMy YouTube-channel:https://www.youtube.com/user/stopperl16/videos
DIY noise source - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Mrt12
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2021, 07:18:38 pm
content: Dear colleaguesas a fun and small christmas project, I built a little noise source for my 8970B NF meter.I borrowed a HP 346C noise source which is known good and used that to calibrate my setup.Then, I made this little prototype in a small aluminium box. I used the schematic published herehttp://www.simonsdialogs.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/noise-source-bfr93a-shunt.jpgbut I used a BGF403W transistor.As one can see from the plot attached, the ENR is a bit high, even though I have used a 10dB pad inside. However, at higher frequencies, it seems that the ENR is quite flat. But I guess from adjusting the output coupling capacitor, I can somehow optimise the frequency flatness. From the fact that for >1 GHz the flatness is quite good, I assume that this noise source would work well for even higher frequencies. I do have an 8971C noise figure test set which works up to 26.5 GHz, but I have not measured my source with that yet.Later I plan to make this noise source with a nicer case. Compared to the noise source electronics, I am even more proud of my prototype case I milled these days. For comparison, I made a photograph otgether with a HP 8484A power sensor such that the size and shape of my own case can be seen. I plan to make a bunch of these cases and also use them for my own built power sensor heads (compatible to HP 436A).To make the actual noise circuit a bit more reproducible, I plan to make a small PCB which holds the transistor and stuff. As one can see from the photographs attached, I use these types of N connectors with a flange, and I wonder how these connectors are meant to be connected to something?On the opposite side of the N connector, my case has some space to mount the connector required for the 28V noise source power supply.

author: LaserSteve
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2021, 07:49:01 pm
content: Do you have the schematic for the diode version of the heads for 436A? I'm in the middle of a project to make my own diode and thermal heads.Steve

author: profdc9
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2021, 07:56:21 pm
content: That is a nice handmade design, not necessarily easy to do.I have an example PCB you could look athttps://github.com/profdc9/RFUtilityKnifethat is designed to be fabbed and populated by JLCPCB. It uses the similar 2SC3356 transistor. I am working on having five circuits in one on the board, including a zener diode RF noise source.Dan
DIY one-handed glove controller for quadcopter (Arduino based) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jaosef
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 25, 2016, 07:09:33 pm
content: Hi guys, just wanted to share one of my projects. A wearable glove controller for a quadcopter. Code, schematics and part list can be found in the video description. Enjoy!Youtube video of the build process:Best regards,Josef

author: ivaylo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2016, 06:45:26 am
content: Cool, thanks for sharing... Nothing personal, but seems to be the latest fad - "glove contrlled X", there were a bunch of projects like that on the Maker Faire last week. Waiting for mind control myself...

author: jaosef
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 26, 2016, 10:47:53 am
content: Quote from: ivaylo on May 26, 2016, 06:45:26 amOk, I guess my only comfort is that I made this in 2014. Mind control is coming as well I've seen. Lets hope it gets better quickly

author: nowlan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2016, 01:28:59 pm
content: I think it would be better if that box wasnt resting on your forearm.Kind of surprised there aren't more off the shelf gloves with sensors in them now. We need aPower Glovefor the 21st century.I saw a kid make a glove that would translate sign language to speech or something which was pretty cool. Lots of applications for handicapped or veterans etc. Not sure if elderly with arthritis can benefit.

author: jaosef
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2016, 05:10:11 pm
content: Quote from: nowlan on May 26, 2016, 01:28:59 pmYep, and I know the electronics box is bulky... In theory you could bypass the main circuit board all together and only communicate with the "transmitter module", and get the size down considerably. Wanted to make it totally wearable, therefore I let it attach to the forearm.
DIY PC Bench Supply Troubleshooting - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Muneeb
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 08, 2018, 06:53:09 pm
content: So I recently Bought some led strips to use as the primary light source in my room. And it won't work on 1-2 amp adapter as it would consume upwards of 100 watts, so I google things and decide to run it off a pc supply. So I do the usual green wire to ground wire jump/short, pull out a couple of yellow 12V and Ground wires and hook them up to led strip, and it works sometimes and sometimes comes on for just half a second and the rest of the times it doesn't start at all.The power supply is new but fairly basic, puts out a decent 310 watts and 20 amps on the 12v rail. Just cannot figure out what could be tripping it. Also, the supply in my home is 252 volts, I don't know if that's the cause because my pc runs fine but it may be because it has a powerful Corsair PSU.It would be really helpful if you guys can figure out a solution.thank youMuneeb

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2018, 07:00:06 pm
content: Some supplies need a certain minium load on the 5 V / 3.3 V rail to work, especially with heavy load on the 12 V. Without the 5 V might go too high and a protection circuit can trigger.

author: Muneeb
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 08, 2018, 07:04:25 pm
content: Quote from: Kleinstein on May 08, 2018, 07:00:06 pmLike maybe a Phantom load on the 5-volt rail?

author: hugo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2018, 02:27:30 am
content: Just add a real load to the 5 V output rail and see if it works.

author: John B
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2018, 11:12:35 pm
content: It could be tripping the short circuit protection. Without load testing the supply, I wouldn't trust the rated figures. For example I have tried a similar thing with a supply rated for 20A on the 12V rail. Even a 1 ohm load trips the short circuit protection. You'd need to consult the specifications to see if the rated current is a genuine constant figure.
DIY Pick and place optical feedback chip - maybe 3D printer too - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: itdontgo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2014, 09:29:00 am
content: ADNS-6010I was looking at this chip for a race car datalogger system to read the position of the suspension dampers. It's that fast it can do what I want but then I thought it would probably be a low cost building block for the P&P optical feedback system as you can download the image.Someone has gone to the trouble of testing it's accuracy and it would need another sensor like a switch every cycle to reset the accumulated error but I think this could be a cheap way of giving your DIY P&P machine optical feedback even on things like fiducials and component angle.Just Google this I can't copy the link 2D_Position_Measurement_with_optical_laser_mouse_sensorNot that I want to get involved with that kind if thing I'll stick to my data logger.http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?lang=en&site=us&vendor=0&WT.z_cid=ref_findchips0311_dkc_buynow&mpart=ADNS-6010Go on commit to a run of 1000 unitsIt's not really 1000 as you would use 4/5 per finished system which is only 250/200 finished products.
DIY Pitch/Speed Control on a cheapy Cassette player? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: wblackledg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2017, 06:25:31 pm
content: Hi,I'm want to do what Prince Fatty is doing in this video (26:15 )But instead of doing it with a reel to reel as he has, do it with a cheapy $25 tape player. (see Amazon Link)https://www.amazon.com/Cassette-Converter-Earphone-WeaKoo-Portable/dp/B0752YR9Y9/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1508176202&sr=1-3&keywords=cassette+tape+player&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_72%3A1248879011I've been told I can only do with machines that have a DC motor.Granted this cheapy tape machine isn't the greatest, but for my needs the quality is fine.Can someone tell me if this will work on this machine?Any other technical advice would be highly appreciated.thanks.

author: wblackledg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2017, 09:07:20 pm
content: shameless bump..

author: WZOLL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 02:19:03 am
content: Depends if the motor is pwm driven or not. You might be able to use a high wattage potentiometer or a LM317 variable power supply. There are probably better ways to do it but these are the simplest.

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 03:07:09 am
content: Most cheap cassette players I've messed with over they years have had an adjustment pot either in or close by the motor, so you're probably half way there.

author: wblackledg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 11:51:12 am
content: Quote from: WZOLL on October 19, 2017, 02:19:03 amthanks!

author: wblackledg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 11:57:51 am
content: Quote from: BradC on October 19, 2017, 03:07:09 amdo you believe that would be enough of an adjustment to get that same effect as I'm after?thanks

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 03:45:21 pm
content: Quote from: wblackledg on October 19, 2017, 11:57:51 amMaybe. It's probably 30 years since I last had my head in a cassette deck. All my open reel machines have synchronous capstan motors, so without a vfd that would be difficult. The cassette motors I dismantled all and little adjustable speed control boards built into them.Buy one and find out. You'll probably have more trouble with tape tension and the associated mechanism if you try to make rapid speed changes, but there's only one way to find out.Funny, I was re-watching a docco on Sgt Peppers on the plane tonight and they were discussing the invention of "Vari-speed" by George Martin and his engineers. Man, that was 50 years ago! Time flies.

author: wblackledg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 04:05:58 pm
content: Quote from: BradC on October 19, 2017, 03:45:21 pmif its a function of a reel to reel physically able to do this and a cassette cant, then thats fine, i abandon the cassette idea. I know tascam portastudios do something similar, but not sure if its exactly what I'm after. The rapid speed change is.thanks.
DIY probe (Tektronix P6516 16 channel) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: okw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2025, 10:21:19 am
content: I'm looking for a P6516. I'd love to buy an original, but used prices are outrageous (new, even more). So Tektronix brought this on themselves.Therefore I'm looking for a DIY solution. I guess it has some kind of eeprom or other chip to identify itself to the scope. Or it could have the full processing onboard(?), but I doubt it.Connection seems to be PCB fingers going directly in the receptacle.Did anyone open theirs, or have some insight of the technology inside?Edit: The P6316 (for MSO3000 series), seems to have 20 PCB fingers on the top layer of the connector (I didn't find for the P6516). 16 for channels, 4 for ground, ID, etc... Or double-sided (40 pins) for extra ground. That leads me to think the probes are just direct connections, and all processing is done in the scope itself.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2025, 12:51:20 pm
content: Usually the logic probe will have 2 sections. At least this is what I saw from reasonably recent probes. A tiny PCB per pin, with a ~1K series and 100K parallel termination to GND. This is where the GND pins are, so about 2-5cm from the end. Then it continues as a tiny coax to the middle part. This is a DAC, EEPROM and a bunch of comparators. The EEPROM makes it so that you cannot just DIY your own cable for this.That being said, I haven't used a modern Tek scope, and the older ones I hated with passion. So YMMW with this description.
DIY PSU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alvieboy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 03, 2018, 07:16:27 pm
content: Hi prasimix, all.I stumbled across this thread a few days ago, and took the time to read most of it. You guys did an amazing work here! It's a hell of a project, I will certainly refer to your design and discussion in the future.The reason I found this thread is I am also working on a lab/bench supply of my own, but something not as advanced nor as powerful. The current design features:- One 5V (fixed) output, with voltage/current measurement and on/off (mosfet)- One dual output (positive+negative), adjustable from (I hope) +-1.2V to +-14V. Max current 1.5A (it uses a pair of LM317/LM337)- One main output, from 1.2V to 29V, max 30W, max ~6A.- Microcontroller programmable, using STM32F103.- LCD TFT (no touch)- One rotary to configure- One on/off switch per output.The objective of my project is to have a capable bench PSU as cheap as possible, while having some fun in the process.The main supply (pre-regulator) is a chinese 30W PSU, capable of delivering a 5V rail, a +15V rail and a -15V rail. For the main output a chinese step-down converter (300W) is used, based on XL4016.Everyting is supposed to fit inside a plastic encosure 200x175x70 which I found online. The front and back panels have been 3D-printed (the prototype ones).Everything should be configurable using the single rotary present. I am however thinging about adding another one if needed.The main PCB arrived two weeks ago (was manufactured by JLCPCB, was the cheapest option I found for 2oz copper). I have not yet the full set of components needed, a few are still missing so I have not yet fully assembled the board, but should do it in the next few days I hope, and run some tests.Attaching the schematics and some photos, including a preliminary design for the LCD output. @prasimix, let me know if you find the 7-segment-like font, I can provide you the fonts I am using.All of the design (PCB, schematics, 3d-prints, software) are to be provided as open-source. I will also write a blog entry once I have the prototype finished and fully assembled.Feedback is welcomedAlvie

author: alvieboy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 03, 2018, 07:26:35 pm
content: Forgot to mention two things.- First the PSU supports CC/CV mode on the main output (I hope, the buck regulator does have two pots for that purpose).- Estimated BOM is €70. This includes everything but assembly.Alvie
DIY pulse generator PG-872 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Liv
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2015, 11:29:44 am
content: Features:• channels number: 2• internal and external trigger• pulse width range: 10 ns - 10 s• pulse width step: 10 ns• delay range: up to 10 s• delay step: 10 ns• period range: 20 ns - 10 s• period step: 10 ns• dead time range: up to 10 s• dead time step: 10 ns• rise and fall time: 2 ns (5 V, 50 Ohm, 100 pF)• output level: -5 V - +10 V (Hi Z load)• output impedance: 50 Ohm• output level and shift step: 10 mV• attenuator: 0 dB, -20 dB, OFF• trigger threshold: -5 V - +5 V• threshold step: 10 mV• trigger input impedance: 200 Ohm• min. trigger pulse width: 10 ns• interface: USB (optocoupled)• case type: Z-4A (160 x 140 x 60 mm)Sine generatorSG-642

author: SimonD
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2015, 11:57:16 am
content: RESPECT !The EPIC Cyclone files ?How is the progress from your electronic load ... ?

author: Liv
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2015, 12:23:52 pm
content: Cyclone is loaded from microcontroller FLASH, the configuration file is inside hex.Work on the electronic load is slow, it is very difficult to design a user interface for graphical LCD.

author: SimonD
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2015, 12:31:12 pm
content: OK Thanks !The type of Graphic LCD ?Keep on the great work !

author: Liv
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2015, 12:38:13 pm
content: LCD type - TIC154A (132 x 64 dots, controller - UC1601S, I2C interface). The photo shows the old version TIC151 (blue), which is now no longer available.P.S. There is a previous version of the generator using 1602 LCD.

author: OldNeurons
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2015, 10:24:14 am
content: Quote from: Liv on April 09, 2015, 12:38:13 pmCongratulations !I really like the professional finish of your devices.Great job !

author: Liv
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2015, 10:28:08 am
content: Thank you!

author: dom0
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2015, 11:54:43 am
content: Interesting design, very smart idea to use a digital line driver and adjust it's supply voltage instead of using a very fast variable-gain (one way or another) amplifier.
DIY reflow oven help -  axial temperature distribution electric heating tube - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: suspension
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2020, 04:21:35 pm
content: Apologies if this is not the correct forum to post this. I tried posting this question in engineering stack exchange, but did not get a reply.Is the axial temperature distribution uniform for a simple and cheap electric heating element such as shorturl.at/tEJSUI understand that the current that is passed is same along the tube but not sure if the temperature would be uniform.

author: mjkuwp
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 14, 2020, 02:47:27 am
content: I don't know what that link is - but if you are referring to a heating element from a toaster oven, I don't see why the heating wouldn't be uniform.current passes through and is the same current along the wire. The current and resistance causes the wire to get hot.The result might not be even heating though, due to how the energy radiates out and bounces around. There are numerous, countless examples of diy reflow ovens on the internet.
DIY RF pre-amp and near field probe - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: electronupdate
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2015, 11:27:07 am
content: I was hoping to do some near-field probing with my spectrum analyzer... problematically my analyzer needs a pre-amp. Even though the analyzer must be pushing 30 years old, used pre-amps still sell well into the 100's of dollars. A testament I guess to the continuing popularity of the HP 859x spectrum analyzers.I bought an off-brand pre-amp, but it was hopeless for the task as the shielding and through hole construction defeated my intended use.Knowing what I know now, I think I could build a 2nd one for under $10.... undoubtedly not as good as commercial gear, but good enough for me to trace down the source of some noise on another project I am working on.Project video at the link below:
diy sata hdd writing indicator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2021, 01:07:26 pm
content: hi all,i have a pc with about 5 sata drives in it most are partitioned,sometimes it can be a pain knowing which drive is beeing writen to,would it be possible to power an led from the sata cable to see what physical drive is beeing written too,without damaging the data stream?

author: magic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2021, 01:37:17 pm
content: Pin 11 on the SATA power connector is supposed to do that.If pulled low by the host, the disk spins up immediately on power-on without waiting for command from the host.If pulled low by the disk, it signals activity. Not sure if all disks implement this function.Most plugs short it to ground, triggering the instant spinup function, so you would need to modify the plug and send this signal to your monitoring circuitry.OTOH, tapping into the high speed differential data lane probably wouldn't do any good.editAnd the elephant in the room: OS specific software may exist to monitor activity of individual disks and display it somewhere on the screen.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2021, 02:58:56 pm
content: Quote from: magic on November 15, 2021, 01:37:17 pmI would suggest Gkrellm.
Diy signature analyzer / tracker - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rodd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2023, 12:00:32 am
content: Dear all,I came across a project of a diy signature tracer (similar to a Huntron tracker) at hackaday.io by Máté Tóth called Microcontroller based curve tracer.See:https://hackaday.io/project/16704-microcontroller-based-curve-tracerDoes anybody tried to build a similar unit?There are 3 versions that were operational and a last one (version V) that was abandoned.I am willing to build ver 3, which is self contained (uses a tft display instead of a xy scope).However the project files are rather confused, and sometimes not updated as a function of the comments.A recurring question is the destination of the signal DUEDAC0.Anybody interest in starting/commenting this project?Thanks

author: ch_scr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2023, 07:20:56 am
content: There is a "similar in spirit" commercial unit:ELV Komponententester

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2023, 10:27:34 am
content: There is code for controlling the TFT in the archive for version 2.

author: liaifat85
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2023, 06:48:24 am
content: I think you will find more accurate answer if you ask in the comment section of the hackaday blog.

author: kripton2035
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2023, 10:36:45 am
content: Quote from: ch_scr on September 08, 2023, 07:20:56 amtoo bad nowadays elv doesn't ship outside germany, austria or swiss. even europe they tell you to use the local elv site, but there is nothing to buy in it !

author: feridunb93
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 08, 2024, 01:27:52 pm
content: Hello, I did this project, drew a pcb and ran it, but it said that I needed to measure the ground references of the opamps (Mate). I got confused here, I managed to see some signals on the oscilloscope.
DIY Single Phase Brushless motor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: LeoTech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2020, 07:33:14 pm
content: Hello there,I am currently working on my High School thesis, and I have chosen to do it on the electrical properties and control of a brushless motor in physics.My idea was to build a simple single phase brushless motor and use it as a test example, to perform several experiments to measure the torque and power used, to compare with my theoretical model of a single phase motor. Any ideas on how I could build that? I have been looking around on google, but I was not able to find a concrete idea on how to actually do it, besides several YT videos showing the finished motor.In case you are interested, my thesis is on modelling brushless motors - both single and triple phase - and trying to 'optimize' the controllers and possibly the motors themselves based on the model. With a model I mean, a mathematical model for the electrical characteristics, I am trying to avoid the mechanical aspects as much as possible.Any thoughts?LeoPS: Neither money nor the acces to tools should be a real problem, but the construction should preferably be kept simple. (My school is paying)
DIY Smart Dimmer with Power Monitoring: Need safety tips. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: johm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 10:22:43 pm
content: Hello, low power design enthusiast here.I am working on a mains-connected project consisting of an ST microcontroller, a digitally controlled TRIAC+IGBT based AC dimmer and a power meter IC. Basically I am stitching together two reference designs (STEVAL-ILD004V2https://www.st.com/resource/en/user_manual/um1908-stevalild004v2-leadingedge-dimmer-stmicroelectronics.pdffrom ST and CRD5436PMhttps://statics.cirrus.com/pubs/rdDatasheet/CRD5463PM_RD2.pdffrom Cirrus Logic). The design intent is to have a dimmable light socket with embedded power metering, for domestic use.Which nodes on the dimmer circuit have AC mains voltage?Can I use the same ground across both designs and the power supply? It looks like ground has AC voltage as well with respect to earth (it is not isolated).I have attached snapshots of the power supply, dimmer circuit and power metering circuit (a 99 % copy from the reference designs). The microcontroller is powered from 3.3 V. I want to be sure of the above questions before feeling safe about plugging the design onto real AC mains.Hopefully you can clarify my confusion. Thank you.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 11:54:45 pm
content: It is a very confusing circuit to evaluate, the best I can see is that you have a controlled bridge rectifier with two SCRs and an IGBT inserted into it somehow, the use of 'GND' everywhere when I don't think you mean mains ground is confusing. I would use the term 'GND' only to refer to mains ground and either 0V or some other name for non mains ground nets to avoid ambiguity.

author: Phoenix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 12:22:08 am
content: A block diagram of what you're trying to achieve would help.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 04:37:14 am
content: I don't see any advantage of using both an IGBT and a SCR in that application. You could instead use a pair of back to back IGBTs or MOSFETs. Reference the circuit to the middle of the two MOSFETs or IGBTs and you'll find that you can put the shunt right there.Try these for design ideas:https://www.sound-au.com/project157.htmhttps://www.sound-au.com/project201.htm

author: johm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 08:13:27 am
content: Here's a simplified block diagram of the funcionality expected. The meter IC, CS5463, is powered from 5V0 and 3V3 generated from the AC/DC brick and linear regulators. The microcontroller uses 3.3V only. The unregulated 12V are needed for the IGBT section of the dimmer. The IGBT section is used to limit the inrush of current when the SCRs are triggered, hence reducing the need for a bulky inductor.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 12:22:34 pm
content: Quote from: johm on June 30, 2024, 08:13:27 amThat doesn't make sense, IGBTs are generally much faster than SCRs. Inrush control is done by ramping the output.
DIY Smart RGB Strip with BLEduino - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mikeeugine
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 11, 2014, 12:27:31 pm
content: Smart RGB LED Strip is based on the development of ourBLEduino, using the Bluetooth 4.0, and thesample codewritten by EF men, bymobile phone APP, to control the switch of RGB LED strip, and the RGB LED color changing. The main principle is that using BLEduino mega328P chip three PWM pins respectively to control the RGB LED strip of R G B three colors. When the phone APP and BLEduino bluetooth pairing connection succeed, phone APP can control mega328P chip three PWM pins output value, then control the the color of the RGB LED stripThis project is very easy – making, as long as with three things of BLEduino, BLE mobile phone APP, RGB LED Strip, we can complete it, which enable more Arduino starters to participate in this project. What’s more, we can apply this project to finish a Christmas tree with smart RGB LED Strip.Read on and download codes:http://www.elecfreaks.com/7849.html
DIY solder station solder iron input voltage AC or DC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: electros6
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2016, 01:23:48 pm
content: Hi guys,I am building a solder station using hakko907 , i have two option using 24V AC source and triac to control the heater or using 24V DC and control using MOSFET using PWM. which one is better or there any performance difference between the two.regardsBaskaran

author: joseph nicholas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2016, 02:17:04 pm
content: I have played around with this concept and I think that using the triac would be a cheaper and better solution becasue the transformer would be operating more efficiently and quieter. Using the mosfet, would be more expensive and cost more to run since the transformer would be fully saturated all the time. If you wanted to get more basic than that just use the triac and eliminate the transformer.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2016, 03:17:13 pm
content: Triac switching is quite noisy and offers worse control compared to ZVS line-synchronous switching that soldering stations typically use since 30 years ago.
DIY Soldering Iron Holder - What Kind of Material? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: fuzzoli
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2019, 10:42:36 pm
content: I see many soldering iron holders have a "plastic" ring the the iron goes into. This piece must obviously be able to withstand some high temperatures. Does anyone know what kind of material the stands are made of? I'm looking into doing a custom holder for several irons. Thanks!

author: electricMN
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2019, 11:40:48 pm
content: A phenolic material would be ideal.

author: dom0
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2019, 12:50:48 pm
content: Bent copper wire (4-6 mm²) soldered to some PCB stock.
DIY SOT23 ZIF socket  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: davekra
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 12:04:25 pm
content: Have you see the price on the ZIF sockets for SOT23!As little as $25 but as much as $150!!Now, I don't know if the $150 one included anything else but the pictures didn't show anything.Since I'm already spending quite a bit on my little project (not thousands mind you, more like a little over $100) I decided to make my own SOT23-8 ZIF to program PICs.I started with some surface mount RJ-45 sockets. These particular ones had the contacts molded into a convenient block that was extracted.I found another type of RJ45 socket that had longer fingers separating the contacts so I used that. They guide the contacts and align the chip so it can be clamped.A little wood, circuit board material and super glue holds it all together. I found a small magnet to hold the latch down.I still need to solder it to a base that can be plugged into a breadboard but I think it will work.Hope this inspires someone else to 'do it yourself'.davidk

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 05:41:36 pm
content: Nice.

author: davekra
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 10:39:03 pm
content: Thanks,The pitch is a bit off but tolerances are such that it works.

author: alexanderbrevig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 12:36:16 am
content: Cool!

author: jwm_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 01:20:03 am
content: I use a magnet for my SMD "ZIF" socket.http://notanumber.net/archives/142/simple-reusable-zif-socket-smd-parts

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 08:19:27 am
content: Quote from: jwm_ on October 17, 2015, 01:20:03 amNote: avoid using on hall effect devices

author: crispy_tofu
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 09:25:13 am
content: That's amazing, thanks for sharing!

author: djQUAN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 10:31:10 am
content: I saw this thread and that inspired me to make the project I kept putting off.I wanted a pogo pin test jig for testing SMD transistors on the cheap multi component testers you can get online. They do have an SMD pad area but it is rather fiddly and prone to the tweezer snapping and throwing the component someplace you can no longer find so it is not a good option when sorting through a mixed bag of components.Here's my version using pogo pins and a jig to hold the component in place.

author: davekra
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 11:38:45 pm
content: These are some neat ideas. Lots of ways to do the same thing.I hadn't thought of having the chip upside down.Thanks guys.davidk