Fluke 8010A restoration - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: tmammela
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 03:32:29 pm
content: My school decided to get rid of some old stuff and I got two of these Flukes for free. They are dirty, few scratches from students abusing them, and the LCDs are more or less busted, but other than that, they seem to work correctly. Google told me that they are well made and accurate, and still have some value on eBay so why not restore them. I'm going to keep one for myself and maybe sell the other (if I don't break them!).Click for large image!The other screen is actually usable but looks very bad. The other works just enough for me to see that the meter is probably working. I ordered two new displays for 8 USD here:http://www.futurlec.com/LED/35LCD.shtmlBelow is the old display. It uses Intersil 7106 compatible (well, one pin difference) controller so I'm hopping to make it work easily.I also found something nasty. Doesn't look nice in otherwise beautiful board. Haven't looked yet if the other one has the same nasty surprise.

author: tmammela
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 05:38:16 pm
content: I couldn't resist so I had to do some cleaning today. This front panel looks better already, but it still needs some hydrogen peroxide to make it white again. They were white back in the 80's right?

author: Rick
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 06:04:31 pm
content: I have 3 of those all broken (ohms and voltage measurements are ok but they do not measure amps, whereas all fuses are ok). Need to investigate later. I used 3% Hydrogene peroxyde bought in a pharmacy to clean them but it did not work. I have also hydrogene peroxyde used to manufacture PCBs. May be that one will do the job? One of mine has like your top dmm the side plastic broken.

author: tmammela
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 06:10:22 pm
content: Quote from: Rick on October 08, 2013, 06:04:31 pmNeed more than 3% and lots of UV light to work. This stuff is supposed to work, and it's not liquid so it will stay on the surface longer:http://www.amazon.com/Salon-Care-Volume-Creme-Developer/dp/B004FVROT0

author: mamalala
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 06:16:44 pm
content: To brighten up old plastics, H2O2 alone is not enough usually. Check out this to see how to make your own stuff to whiten plastics:http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/Greetings,Chris

author: Rick
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 06:50:47 pm
content: Quote from: tmammela on October 08, 2013, 06:10:22 pmI doubt I can find that brand here but what is this used for? For bleaching ... hair?May be I shall look for an equivalent product.Thanks. What type of UV lamp should I use? Any type?

author: tmammela
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 07:03:31 pm
content: Quote from: Rick on October 08, 2013, 06:50:47 pmCheck out this video:It can be done outside during a sunny day. It's just slower. But I haven't tried it myself yet.Quote from: mamalala on October 08, 2013, 06:16:44 pmThanks, I will try that if my first option will fail!

author: Rick
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 07:57:36 pm
content: Quote from: tmammela on October 08, 2013, 07:03:31 pmOk thank you.Quote"Oxy" landry booster... May be baking soda could also work? They talk about it as an equivalent product in some places

author: mamalala
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 09:12:07 pm
content: Quote from: Rick on October 08, 2013, 07:57:36 pmI doubt that. If you read the site there, you will see that it is a certain chemical in the laundry booster that does the trick. The plastic does not get yellow due to dirt that could be bleached out. What happens is that the bromide (a flame retardant) causes the yellowing. The whole compination of H2O2, UV light and the booster stuff reverses that on a chemical basis/reaction.Greetings,Chris

author: Napalm2002
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 09:41:14 pm
content: The LCD looks a lot like the LCD out of the old fluke 8020a and 8020b of the early 1980s. If anyone knows please let me know bec I have two fluke 8020 series dmms that can use new displaysSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -now Free

author: lowimpedance
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 11:12:54 pm
content: Quote from: Napalm2002 on October 08, 2013, 09:41:14 pmGood luck finding a new LCD to drop in, I had to resort to this ;https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/recovery-of-an-old-fluke-8020a-with-a-bad-lcd/On page 5 of that thread forum member Modemhead provided a link to his web page where he fully documented his effort he on his 8020a display mod. Well worth a read.

author: Napalm2002
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2013, 12:33:38 am
content: Thanks soo much!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -now Free

author: tmammela
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2013, 05:02:52 pm
content: I need help! I foundthis mapping tablebut my LCD has different markings for the pins.This is what the guy who made the table used:http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/175000-199999/185663-da-01-de-LCD_ANZEIGE_SE_6902_3_1_2_STELLIG.pdfThis is my LCD:http://www.futurlec.com/LED/35LCD.shtmlFor example, my LCD has pins 9-12 labelled as 2E 2D 2C 2P and the other has 3e 3d 3c 3DP. My LCD has no 1a-g but it has 4a-g in the same places. Are they just using different labels or are they incompatible?

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2013, 01:42:24 pm
content: Quote from: tmammela on October 09, 2013, 05:02:52 pmI am just guessing, but maybe it is just a matter of reversing the order of the digits. The replacement seems to label the '1' on the left as digit 4, probably followed by 3, 2, and finally 1 on the right. The original seems to call the left '1' the 1st digit, followed by 2, 3, and 4 on the right. That would also explain the 2 and 3 seeming to be swapped. Try it, it won't hurt to get the digits mixed up, at worst the display just won't make sense until you get it sorted out.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2013, 02:01:02 pm
content: I think those are supposed to be beige/grey, not pure white...

author: tmammela
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2013, 07:25:55 pm
content: Quote from: macboy on October 10, 2013, 01:42:24 pmI had to draw it but now I see it too! Very strange if they reversed the order and kept it otherwise same. Either it's that or they just changed labels. Good thing they didn't change the letters so it's not impossible to try this out.Quote from: macboy on October 10, 2013, 01:42:24 pmYeah, but it will mean lots of soldering and "desoldering".Quote from: amyk on October 10, 2013, 02:01:02 pmLight gray is probably the right color. I tried out the retrobright, it works even though I had to improvise some ingredients and I used only fluorescent light. Would be faster with UV light though. But its turning grey now..!

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2013, 09:36:11 pm
content: Quote from: tmammela on October 10, 2013, 07:25:55 pmGood to know that it is working for you. I will soon be doing the same with several Keithley instruments that have turned yellow.