Soldering wire to camera - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2015, 05:45:42 am
content: Hello I have been trying to solder some wires to a camera and I am having trouble. In the first photo, I tried to just solder on top of the edges of the button I guess you can say, but I have been unsuccessful D:. The second photo I have an idea where to solder its the square button which is the shutter button. I bought soldering paste to see if that will work, but I am still having trouble. I put the paste on the wire and tried to put it on the joint to solder to the shutterstill not doing the job. Any tips I assume I am doing right I have soldered before so it shouldn't be too hard

author: elgonzo
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 26, 2015, 05:55:40 am
content: It is hard to tell from the photos, but if you think that there is not enough solder on the pads of the button to hold the wire (it looks that way to me) then apply some additional solder to the pad first (use flux). Next, bring your (pre-tinned) wire in position and reheat the pad (do not forget to apply some flux again) with the solder to tack on the wire. Done.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 06:44:54 am
content: I am still having issues I got it to stick but its a bit sticky I guess that means its not soldered all the wayI would think so :/

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 06:56:53 am
content: Do not use soldering paste. Use just plain old solder wire.Also, perhaps this sounds silly, but it's kinda what it looks like - you're not trying to solder on top of the button are you? The button tops are covered in kapton (polyamide, yellow-gold colour) heat resistant tape, which you're not going to solder through.Solder to the feet of the buttons, not the top.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 07:40:24 am
content: Quote from: sleemanj on January 28, 2015, 06:56:53 amno I am not I am trying to solder at the edges like in diagram not on top of button. I used soldering paste cause it was user to use I had a hard time balancing the soldering wire and the soldering iron and the camera. since its already stuck to camera do you think I can add the soldering wire on top or would I need to remove everyrhing if so how would I go about it.

author: jeremy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 08:25:21 am
content: You should try to clamp the camera in place. Use some heavy books on either side, or even some tacky plasticine (around here it's called blu-tack or yellow-tack). It will make things a lot easier.What iron are you using? What temperature? What solder paste?

author: Timmay
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 10:23:30 am
content: Quote from: Midas on January 28, 2015, 07:40:24 amI am having a hard time understanding what you want? Is your iron not hot enough to flow the solder on the board? Or are you having issues with knowing where to solder to depending on what you want done?

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 11:39:07 pm
content: Quote from: jeremy on January 28, 2015, 08:25:21 amI am using this pastehttp://www.radioshack.com/2-oz-non-spill-rosin-soldering-paste-flux/6400022.html#.VMlycqrnZMsI am using this soldering ironhttp://www.radioshack.com/weller-bp650nb-battery-powered-soldering-iron/6400253.html#q=weller&simplesearch=Go&start=6There is no temperature modifier on this one its just an on and off switch.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 11:42:23 pm
content: Quote from: Timmay on January 28, 2015, 10:23:30 am

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 11:46:04 pm
content: This is my work using the paste then I tested the structure and nothing happened I hooked up 1.5 V battery holder to it and put batteries to make a sensor on a breadboard go off and nothing happened. Basically I planned on creating a camera that had a sensor that detects motion. Once it detected motion it took a picture.

author: elgonzo
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 11:53:57 pm
content: Was that the thickest wire you could find?No seriously, use a thinner, preferably solid wire - size-wise, a strand of that big-ass wire you are using would be more than enough.("big-ass" is meant in relation to the size of the solder pads of the button)Also, are you sure that you soldered to the right pads? Hard to tell from the pictures... Remember, two of each pads of these types of button are usually shorted- so if you soldered both wires to a pair of shorted pads it won't work.Look carefully on the PCB - often you can identify button pads which are connected to GND. This will help you determining the orientation of the button and thus help you to figure out which pads you should solder to.Or, much simpler, just solder the wires on the pads that are diagonally across the button. This way it is not possible to even accidentally solder to two pads that are shorted.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 02:21:07 am
content: Quote from: elgonzo on January 28, 2015, 11:53:57 pmI am a bit lost by the words your using cause they are a bit too advanced for me. I assumed I was wiring in the correct place cause I used a multimeter to measure the voltage across the button. That was the thinnest wire I could fine that wasn't too small for the breadboard

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 03:04:24 am
content: Quote from: Midas on January 29, 2015, 02:21:07 amOookay, it looks rough but appears to be soldered, so1. What are you trying to achieve2. What is happening at the moment that it is not achieving your goal3. What is on your breadboard (circuit diagram, or at least a block diagram/rough sketch and a photo)

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 03:52:29 am
content: Quote from: sleemanj on January 29, 2015, 03:04:24 amI am trying to connect the sensor to a digital camera, so the camera will take a picture when it detects motion. The issue I am having now is that it wont take a picture that is the issue I am having now. The circuit diagram I followed was thishttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/circuit-board-help/?action=dlattach;attach=123853;image

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 03:58:41 am
content: First make sure the wires do what they need to do.If you take the cables that you wired and you short them for a bit, does the camera take the snapshot?

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 04:07:16 am
content: Quote from: miguelvp on January 29, 2015, 03:58:41 amShort them a bit? I am sorry im not familiar with that word like I am but I am not sure how to test that.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 04:42:21 am
content: is it possible that your sensor sinks to ground on its S_OUT input? I know a digital Hall Sensor does that. In that case, you would need to have a pull-up resistor to 5volts or so. You may also need an inverter so that the mosfet only turns on once the sensor sinks it's output to ground.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 04:47:04 am
content: Quote from: Falcon69 on January 29, 2015, 04:42:21 amyou spoke a different language to me sir. So an inverter I am not familiar with at all and im going to see what type of resistor I have.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 04:53:22 am
content: Quote from: Midas on January 29, 2015, 04:07:16 amIf you connect the other ends of the wires for as long as it takes to press the button it should act the same as pressing the button and it should take a picture if the wires are soldered in the right place.

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 04:57:55 am
content: Quote from: Midas on January 29, 2015, 03:52:29 amWhat sensor? Provide a link to the datasheet.Quote from: Midas on January 29, 2015, 03:52:29 am"Short" in this context means to join the two wires together manually for a brief moment to make sure that it triggers.Quote from: Midas on January 29, 2015, 03:52:29 amAre you certain you have the wires in the correct order?

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 04:58:51 am
content: Quote from: miguelvp on January 29, 2015, 04:53:22 amOk I don't get what you mean if you connect the other ends but I understand the rest. Do you feel I need to use actual solder instead of paste as someone said earlier? I will try to find some smaller wires as well but I don't think the wires will fit into the breadboard if I get any smaller.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:00:15 am
content: Quote from: sleemanj on January 29, 2015, 04:57:55 amhttp://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-passive-infrared-sensor/2760347.html#.VMm-KarnZMsI can check again I am pretty positive I can also post picture so you can see

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:02:02 am
content: Quote from: Midas on January 29, 2015, 04:58:51 am1. You have two wires soldered in place into the camera at one end, and plugged into the breadboard at the other.2. At the breadboard, take the wires going to the camera out of the breadboard3. Turn the camera on and get it ready to take a picture4. Hold the ends of the wires you took out of the breadboard5. Touch the two wires together for a brief moment6. See if the camera takes the picture.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:06:00 am
content: An inverter has 4 pins. PWR, GND, IN, and OUT. Simply put, it takes a signal and reverses it. So If you had voltage IN, it would show ground on its OUT.If you used a or I think you could forget the inverter, and use a P-Channel Mosfet.So something like this maybe.....This, of course, is if your sensors OUT sinks to ground. What happens is the +5V will supply the P-Channel mosFET with power, making no current flow through the mosFET. Once the sensor is activated, it sinks that +5volts to ground through the sensor, and the mosFET will then see a ground and allow current to flow through it.Does that make sense to you?

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:09:45 am
content: Quote from: sleemanj on January 29, 2015, 05:02:02 amno it don't. I have been having issues trying to solder the wires to the pad for weeks

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:12:14 am
content: Quote from: Falcon69 on January 29, 2015, 05:06:00 amYes it kind of makes sense actually I had to read it and look at diagram a few times I just need to know how to do it. I see your saying get a P mosfet so not just any mosfet will work

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:14:09 am
content: Quote from: Midas on January 29, 2015, 05:09:45 amThen you need to solve that problem firstFirst thing, solder the wires diagonally like this:

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:18:52 am
content: you need to check and make sure that the sensor you have actually sinks its S_OUT to ground. By looking at that data sheet, I think it does.There is one way to check. Take a resistor, connect it to 5volts, then take an LED and connect the Anode to the other end of the resistor and then connect the LED's Cathode to the S_OUT of the sensor. Trigger the sensor, if the LED Lights, then it sinks it's input to ground.If it does that, then the circuit I have drawn should work.Maybe others have more input.You said earlier you used paste to connect the wires to the switch? Oh lord, you need to solder those to the switch. Paste (if you mean glue) won't provide a connection. Get some solder, maybe .032 inch diameter solder wire, and make sure it has flux in it. Solder those wires to those switch contacts. Don't hold that soldering iron on there too long, you will damage that small switch. If you used solder paste, you need to heat that up until it becomes a solid solder and solders the wires to the switch contacts.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:21:04 am
content: Quote from: sleemanj on January 29, 2015, 05:14:09 amok I think I got what you are saying my issue is in how to solder it on the points

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:23:15 am
content: They make several kinds of mosFETs. N-Channel and P-Channel are the most common. Each kind of mosFET works differently than the other. You will need a P-Channel for that circuit I drew to work..But, You need to make sure that sensor sinks its S_OUT to ground by doing that test I said above in previous post with the LED. If the S_OUT provides a voltage (instead of sinking), then my circuit won't work. In fact, that switch will probably stay on continuously, which is probably not good for that camera.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:24:37 am
content: Quote from: Falcon69 on January 29, 2015, 05:18:52 amits easy soldering the ends of the wires pretty easily but when I try to solder it to the camera that's when the issue comes inthat's why I got paste cause I thought it would be easier. I checked the switch it still works and it don't matter I got a better camera I was using this as a test dummy

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:25:30 am
content: Quote from: Falcon69 on January 29, 2015, 05:18:52 amI don't think it does (oh wait, unless you mean when it's not triggered, in which case, ignore the below because it would have to, nope read the rest of your post and your circuit diagram (with an error, if the switch voltage is like that it would conduct through the body diode all the time), I think you've just got it inverted, the sensor, according to the link provided by the poster outputs HIGH on trigger, LOW on not trigger).I believe it outputs 5v when triggered, it has two trigger modes, either a continual output of 5v when movement, or a 5 second high output.See the link to the information in the link the poster has provided, and if you read the PDF there, it gives you a link to arduino code, nd if you look at that, you'll findCode:boolean isPeopleDetected(){int sensorValue = digitalRead(PIR_MOTION_SENSOR);if(sensorValue == HIGH)//if the sensor value is HIGH?{return true;//yes,return true}else{return false;//no,return false}}

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:29:45 am
content: Quote from: sleemanj on January 29, 2015, 05:25:30 amI am not using an arduino I didn't want to use one plus I cant find my arduino

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:32:17 am
content: Quote from: Midas on January 29, 2015, 05:29:45 amI posted the code, found from the link you provided, in order to show, that the sensor outputs 5v on the output pin when it is triggered.I think this is all a bit beyond you really, if you're having problems soldering two connections to two pads, then you need to practice your soldering first.Small steps. Walk before you can run. Make a device that lights an LED when movement is triggered for a start.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:34:12 am
content: Midas,Try this site and download the applet.http://www.falstad.com/circuit/It's not the best simulator, but it gives you an idea on how the basic electronic components work. It's fun to play with also.You can even draw out that circuit I posted, and add some LEDs and see it work.If the sensor outputs a voltage, then this circuit should work fine using an N-Channel mosFET.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:35:26 am
content: Quote from: sleemanj on January 29, 2015, 05:32:17 amDo you have any advice on how to solder to practice to lead me to soldering the top correctly I will look at videos of course.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:36:06 am
content: actually, for the N-mosFET, since your sensor outputs only 5volts, you may need to order a logic-level N-channel mosFET. A regular N-channel mosFET may not (and probably won't) work.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:37:52 am
content: Here's one Dave did. He's done a few of them, but doing a search on YouTube for "solder Tutorial" yields many results.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:41:39 am
content: what type of solder are you using? On the solder package, does it say ANYTHING about flux or Rosin Core? If it doesn't, you are most likely using a solder without flux, and in that case, you are going to have hard trouble soldering anything with it. I had that problem starting out. I just could solder crap until I watched learning videos and realized my solder was junk.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:44:31 am
content: Quote from: Falcon69 on January 29, 2015, 05:41:39 amyes I saw rosin on package I got standard 60/40

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:45:44 am
content: Quote from: Midas on January 29, 2015, 05:35:26 amBuild some thing(s) on prototype board, assemble someelectronics kit(s), anything.Make a simple thing, like a 555 led flasher on your breadboard, and then solder it up onto a prototype PCB.Or buy a soldering practice board from eBay or somewhere, eghttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-DIY-SMD-Components-Welding-Practice-Board-Soldering-Skill-Training-BLUE-LED-/381067026447?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58b95d600f- no relation just one of the first that came up ), some will do stuff, others are just dummy boards.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:47:19 am
content: Quote from: Falcon69 on January 29, 2015, 05:18:52 amwhat did you mean by anode and cathode? is it the positive and negative connections im trying to remember. I will stop by radioshack and pick up and LED and see what kind of mosfets they have just in case I may need to order one.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 05:49:47 am
content: here you gohttp://www.michaelsharris.com/electronics/images/led.gifThe long lead on the LED is always the Anode.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2015, 10:28:20 am
content: I am still having issues. I actually got the solder to stick to the camera, but when I put the wires together it still didn't take picture. Is there any other way possibly to do this cause I have no idea why it is not working

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2015, 04:39:35 pm
content: Get a short length of wire with bare ends. Turn your camera on and then place one end of the wire on a pad at the side of the shutter button then poke each pad in turn until the camera clicks or takes a photo, if it does not work move the first end of the wire to another pad and then go around again until the shutter works those two pads will be the ones you need to solder you remote control wires to.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2015, 07:11:38 pm
content: Quote from: G7PSK on February 03, 2015, 04:39:35 pmI am a bit lost but when I get home I will upload a photo I already soldered it is there a way I can take it apart

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2015, 09:33:17 pm
content: You can leave the soldered wire for now, just find the right contact points for the shutter to operate with another piece of wire. Then move the soldered piece as required. I suspect that one is the very fine trace next to the button.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2015, 11:33:04 pm
content: Quote from: G7PSK on February 03, 2015, 09:33:17 pmI thought I understood you but I see that I didn't so I take a bare wire and see where?

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2015, 02:54:33 am
content: Does anyone else have that feeling of 'pulling teeth'?

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2015, 03:28:19 am
content: BE Nice SL4P, this is beginner section.Midas, need to follow directions. Unsolder those wires, take a single wire, strip about 1/2" of insulation off the ends. Touch a corner of the switch (on its contact) and take the other end of the wire and touch each of the other corners of the switch until the camera takes a picture, when it takes a picture, that is where you need to solder the wires of your sensor too.

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 08:32:59 am
content: Quote from: SL4P on February 05, 2015, 02:54:33 amAlready beat you to ithttp://iamdentistry.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Wisdom-Teeth-in-Hand2.jpg

author: Midas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 08:37:54 am
content: Quote from: Falcon69 on February 05, 2015, 03:28:19 amI checked everywhere on the top of the shutter and could not find anything in terms of it being on the end.I used a thicker wire and touched the middle of the button of course the flash went off on the shutter

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 12:30:17 pm
content: On your close-up photo of the switch -you don't want to solder to the switch- you need to connect tothe solder pads.Not the gold switch membrane or the silver bits within the switch itself.... but those small silver (solder) corners that are visible (L-shapes) justoutsidethe four corners of the 'gold' square.From the image as it is shown above, it appears the pads you need to connect - are the top and bottom L's on the RH side. of the switch body. The tracks may run under the switch - but they look like the ones you want)The switch itself is irrelevant - you are bypassing the switch with your wire and (relay) or whatever.(I just can't press UNNOTIFY!)

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 03:48:20 pm
content: Try the top right and bottom right solder pads. The one nearest the writing and the one below that.

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 08:56:08 pm
content: Quote from: G7PSK on February 08, 2015, 03:48:20 pmYep - that should do it!