Beginner's Indispensable Kit Contents - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 01:27:50 pm
content: Hi folks,I'm from Nepal (Asia) and I've just registered. While I do have a background in rudimentary electronics concepts (I'm an Electrical Engineer), nonetheless - I wish to start from the beginning as a serious hobbyist. I am mostly interested in RF/IR related projects and have aimed to build my own ham radio by 2024 (ten years ought to be enough?).My first serious project would be to build myself a workbench with a variable voltage power supply, and other indispensable tools. While I will manage to build my variable power supply all by myself, therefore I wish to possess some quality kit for the workbench. Folks, please help me with these confusing questions:Do I require a soldering station at this stage? Like Hakko 888?If not, suggest a durable and good soldering iron.(SolvedI went for the Hakko 888 Knob version with a spare chisel tip.)Which multimeter do you folks feel is good enough for me?(SolvedI went for the Uni-T 139C Multimeter)...and where do you suggest I acquire those from? I can spare around US $130 for the tool-kit, and online stores (US, UK or Chinese) is my only option.I wish to salvage most components off old electronics PCB, hence advise me on desoldering pump vs wickShould I grab a circuit simulator software? Which one?Anything else I missed?Please recall your first electronics venture, and spare your years of experience, pitfalls, etc to set me up for a smooth sailing. Sorry for asking too many questions in a single maiden post. Please note that in our country the supply is @ 220-240 V, 50 Hz, but I intend to incorporate 110-120 V, 60 Hz output capabilities to my variable voltage power supply project besides the usual DC 24V/16V/12V/6V/3V/1.5V outputs. As a result, you may suggest soldering irons rated at 110V, 60 Hz too.Cheers!!

author: Maxlor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 01:44:03 pm
content: 3. One or two multimeters! Although I suppose as an EE you have those already? And some hand tools, like tweezers, side cutters, wire strippers or helping hands. A roll of kapton tape is also useful.5. You might need both. Desoldering pumps work well when removing large amounts of solder when trying to free through-hole components. They don't work for cleaning up small amounts of solder off an SMD pad, you'll need wick for that.6. LT Spice is free and works pretty well, try that first.7. Good lighting for the bench. You need a lot of light when working with small stuff, but reflections are very annoying. It took me several attempts to find something that works. I use a 200W Halogen lamp reflected via the white ceiling now, it's ok.

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 01:56:38 pm
content: Quote from: Maxlor on December 04, 2014, 01:44:03 pmThanks for the inputs Maxlor!!

author: Thor-Arne
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 06:28:51 pm
content: 1. I think any temperature controlled soldering station would do, certainly better than a ordinary soldering iron.2. Perhaps getting one of theAttensoldering stations would be good enough. I haven't tried those myself, and I would check the insides before powering it up.Perhaps a hot air gun for automotive use could be helpful for removing large amounts of parts in one go, apply heat from the back and give the board a bump and most parts will fall off.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 11:00:26 pm
content: From an old thread, some suggestions for a basic lab for a budget price:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/the-$250-electrnoics-lab-a-suggested-setup-for-beginners/Everything is still valid except the soldering station link is no longer valid and some prices have changed.Possible alternative for the soldering station:http://www.dx.com/p/best-best-936b-anti-static-constant-temperature-soldering-station-w-iron-3-flat-pin-plug-353998#.VIDnEsnN5Qs

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 01:42:59 am
content: Additional supplies not mentioned here or in the earlier thread:In addition to solderless breadboard, get pcb such as Veroboard, with grids of solder pads and holes for more permanent prototypes. Perfboard with no copper can be useful. Since you are interested in RF, blank single and double sided PCB is good also, for dead-bug and manhattan-style construction. You will want to make inductors so do some research on toroid cores (ARRL publications are helpful) and enamelled solid copper "magnet" wire.Look in earlier threads for "Jellybean" components that most people have on hand. Often these parts are cheap and you will find that components from recycled consumer electronics may not be all that useful.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 02:40:58 am
content: Your eyes might be younger than mine.You will need something like these for SMD work:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Head-Headset-LED-10X-Magnifier-Magnifying-Glass-Loupe-/190697727796?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2c66786734

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 04:51:25 am
content: Folks,Thanks for pouring in your invaluable feedback. Allow me to add that although I am a 24 carat beginner, I believe in buying tools to last for a lifetime (). I do not wish to buy an Atten (for instance) today to just discard it after a few years and bang my headto grab another better station. I wish to stick to the tools that I'll purchase the first time.Price may not be a concern, much. However, I'd refrain from overkilling.Regards!!

author: Thor-Arne
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 08:03:41 am
content: Then you should probably look at the well known brands of soldering stations, such as Weller or Hakko.

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 01:18:06 pm
content: Quote from: Thor-Arne on December 05, 2014, 08:03:41 amThat's exactly what I intend to do now!! I wasn't quite sure that I needed the station, but thanks to you goodfellas, we've established that I do need one after all. Now for the equipment itself, I've done my homework here and have settled down for a Hakko 888 Analog (The digital one didn't appeal to me much and besides, reviewers had better things to say about the analog one anyway).The first two questions on my first post get a "tick" mark and can be labelled as "solved". The consequent question of finding the analog fx-888 today, of course, isanother topic in itself.Let's move on to the multi-meters (or DMM) now. Any pointers fellas?Thanks in advance!!

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 01:32:17 pm
content: Quote from: Lightages on December 04, 2014, 11:00:26 pmThanks Lightages for that link to a very useful thread. Now, whether or not the items available at DX.com (the website endorsed by the OP there) are authentic, is a different topic for debate altogether.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 06:24:25 pm
content: Apart from the many threads on DMM's in the forum you must check our world famous Multimeter Spreadsheet byWytnucls:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/multimeter-spreadsheet/Another recent one that I thought was interesting:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/multimeter-with-low-continuity-test-voltage/msg475506/#msg475506There are many gripes about continuity test mode beepers being slow to respond and it is a very frustrating feature of some meters.Try to get a fast one.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 06:54:42 pm
content: Quote from: xibalban on December 05, 2014, 01:18:06 pmThey stopped making these awhile back. If you want a new station with a knob from Hakko, you'd be looking at theFX-950.Weller still makes models with knobs as well (WS81is made for 230V mains).Otherwise you're looking at used (JBC or Hakko with knobs), or looking for digital (other brands have a lot more intuitive/easier to use interfaces than Hakko's).Quote from: xibalban on December 05, 2014, 01:18:06 pmBrymenis a brand you should take a serious look at. Very well built (including input protections), good balance of features for the money, and compared to an approximately equal model of Fluke or other name brand, is less expensive.If you're after 50k counts and all the bells and whistles for example, take a look at the BM869s. Otherwise, the BM257, BM525, or BM829 might do nicely instead, depending on what combination of features you're after (counts, logging or not, ...).

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 04:45:36 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on December 05, 2014, 06:54:42 pmThanks for the suggestion on alternative stations. I checked the Hakko-950 and albeit it comes without any 'tip', I wanted to go for it. Alas, the station is nowhere to be found for sale.These stations must be so good that people wouldn't want to sell it after buying, and thus you never find used ones put up for sale anywhere.Wellers are more easily found, but I've read enough about Hakko being way far better than Weller counterparts, that it may not find any place in my mind now.

author: Maxlor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 04:24:34 pm
content: Your budget makes it a bit difficult to recommend a soldering station and a multimeter to be honest. The soldering station alone is probably going to blow it if chinese models aren't an option. Personally I bought an Ersa i-Con Pico for home use. Works very well so far (I can consistently work at a lower temperature than with the soldering stations at work), and heats up in a couple of seconds. The three things I don't like about it are: lack of ESD protection (that costs 100 bucks extra, the bastards), the grip handle gets pretty warm at the front after a while, the isolation is not great; and you can't change the tip while it's hot, you need to wait for it to cool down because you do need your fingers, next to impossible to do it with pliers. The digital interface works well on the Ersa, it's very simple: press up to increase the temperature, press down to lower it. It changes the temperature slowly at first when keeping the button pressed, then speeds up to tens of degrees. Works well. Not at all like that very unfriendly digital interface Hakko uses.I'm not impressed by the Ersa stations at work. They're older models, ANALOG 60 A in single and dual versions, and DIGITAL 2000. The analog ones take forever to heat up (30-60 seconds,) the digital one at least is fast. What's common with both is that the tips only seem to last a short time. Granted, that may be because of some of my colleagues; I sometimes find the stations with the temperature knob set to maximumAs for multimeters, if you want a really good one, it'll cost you. But, for bench use, you don't need a really good one, since you'll not be working with high energy circuits, and probably don't need super high precision when you're starting out. So maybe theUT139Csuits you? If you don't need TrueRMS, there are solid meters that cost less. You could even buy a $20 cheapie now (the measurements will still be correct) and get the expensive model later when you have a better understanding of what you need exactly.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 06:11:17 pm
content: Quote from: xibalban on December 06, 2014, 04:45:36 amIt's a recent model (don't think it's even been available for a year). To get one, you'd need to find the distributor for Nepal (easiest way to avoid counterfeits, which happens a lot with Hakko).Quote from: xibalban on December 06, 2014, 04:45:36 amWhere are you getting this information, and what was being compared?I'd give Hakko the edge on tip quality overall (thicker iron plating), but Weller offers more models and options than Hakko (greater flexibility). Neither is junk, it's more of a matter of finding the right station for your needs that falls within budget. Then there's Ersa (heard good things about them; check out the i-Con Nano), and JBC is amazing (Dave and others have made videos of these).Pricing & availability may not be the same in all locations, so put the time in to check this out thoroughly (sucks to get a station, then can't get tips quickly or easily because it has to come from a seller/s located half way around the world).

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 08:48:39 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on December 06, 2014, 06:11:17 pmWell, dissatisfaction with Weller or (Hakko is better) are strewn all over this very forum.Here's the latest!Here are some other threads, where most goodfellas preferred the Hakko over any Weller:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/weller-wes51-digital-soldering-station-vs-hakko-fx888-soldering-station/msg125993/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/going-to-buy-a-soldering-station/msg537047/etc.Well, let's not debate further. I just felt that I'd go for a Hakko, for the price. Your inputs are appreciated nonetheless, thanks.Moving along to DMMs, I'd stated in the first post that I'm inclined toward ham radio/wireless electronics and hence I must consider a meter ideal to my usage. It would be used on a bench mostly, so:Do I require a trueRMS type?Are these good brands:MetraviandRishabh?...or must I focus on the Fluke brand only. Perhaps, grab a Fluke 101-106 series for now?Since multimeters were absent in my first post, my separate budget for one is US $100.I would still shy away from UNI-T or other Chinese stuff, not because they're bad but I could very easily receive a fake one.Please advise!!

author: Thor-Arne
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 10:02:36 am
content: Check outFranky's store, and hissales thread.I'm positive that he does not sell any fakes.

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 12:35:00 pm
content: Here is my list:1) soldering iron + multimeter. Those el cheapo or even free ones are perfectly OK.2) breadboards + perf boards;3) assortment of capacitors + resistors;4) npn/pnp transistors - 2n5551/5401 is my favorite but 3906/3094 or the likes work as well.5) some regulators. ams1117 or 780x. 3.3v and 5v are fairly typical.All can be had for less than $50 and likely $25.

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 02:01:07 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on December 05, 2014, 06:24:25 pmThe spreadsheet was mystic to me in a lot of ways, but helpful after a bit of researching. Thanks.Anyway, so somewhere down the line I would require more than just one multimeter - which brings me to choose a beginners' model for now, perhaps. I'm eying theFluke 101. My qualm, however would be its inability to measure pico level capacitance, radio frequencies and temperature which I feel I will require. Any alternatives at that price range fellas?Somehow, I'm feeling comfortable only with a Fluke brand (just like the Hakko before), my bad perhaps!!

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 02:25:16 pm
content: $100? Simple decision IMHO. Get two! I would get two UT139C. Two meters make many things possible.If you can manage $135 then get the BM257S.

author: Maxlor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 11:53:51 pm
content: The Fluke 101 and it's brothers higher up in the range are really cute, but imho not suitable for electronics because they lack a mV DC range, and mA ranges. You'll need those. While autoranging certainly is the way to go, not having the option of manual ranging can be frustrating at times. Plus they're very expensive for what they offer.I haven't heard about any Uni-T fakes so far.From a quick glance at your links, Metravi seems to sell rebadged C.E.M. meters. C.E.M. are a large chinese manufacturer whose meters are sold rebadged under many different brands all over the world. Never heard of Rishabh. The meters look a lot like Gossen Metrawatt ones. If they're rebranded and not just cheap clones, expect them to be way out of your price range.

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2014, 12:15:13 am
content: Quote from: Maxlor on December 04, 2014, 01:44:03 pmSpend some bigger dollars on side cutters. Buy a pair with hardened carbon steel blades (not stainless) and spend big on them. If you buy the right cutters you will only buy them once. Cheap wire strippers like the ones that have the diamond shaped hole in the blades are better and more versatile than the more expensive models. Don't scrimp on screwdrivers. Again, buy quality (my favs are Whia, but I also have a set of Stanley that I like. There are plenty out there).Just don't cheap out on the basics. If you do like I did and spend years buying cheap hand tools, you'll really appreciate the difference when you finally buy the right tools. If you do it right from the start you won't have the extra appreciation of the difference, just trust me in that you'll be much better off. I can't emphasize enough how much better it is to use really, really good cutters.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2014, 05:57:34 am
content: Quote from: xibalban on December 07, 2014, 08:48:39 amNo worries.Do be careful with what you're comparing though IMHO (apples to apples, not chewing gum to a top quality steak), as the quality will differ greatly with price. FWIW, WX series has been sorted, and tip QC does seem to be slowly improving IME (just hope this continues).If you're dead set on Hakko, take a serious look at theFX-951(digital, but the UI is better than the FX-888D, and you get the cartridge tip technology). Note the feature set, particularly with the stand (i.e. stand operated setback features). Substantial jump from the FX-888D (FX-950 would be as well, and a tad cheaper; you do lose some features vs. the digital version though OTB).Given your location, you might also want to see if you can't locate a genuine GOOT or Denon product as well. And if money isn't so much of an issue (i.e. can get the best), JBC beats anything I'm aware of for a temperature controlled station.Also, make sure you consider the consumables cost, tip profiles available, and availability in your location during your deliberations as well.Quote from: xibalban on December 07, 2014, 08:48:39 amFluke is nice, but you can get excellent quality meters at lower cost (much better value). Brymen is one such brand that has good input protection. Uni-T also has it's place, as it offers a lot of features for not much money (not they safest, but if working with low energy, it's not going to be a problem).Quote from: Lightages on December 07, 2014, 02:25:16 pm+1I'd recommend springing the extra bit of cash on the Brymen as your main meter, then you can add less expensive ones later on (or more expensive if you prefer). You'll get a good, safe, meter with a nice set of features.Quote from: BradC on December 08, 2014, 12:15:13 amI would have to agree with this as well.If you look in thisTronex thread, you'll see some pics of Hozan cutters and pliers from another member for example.Schmitzwould be a quality German manufacturer that's truly worth your time to investigate (don't have any of their cutters, but their pliers are the best I've ever used). They do ship to Nepal, and the shipping costs actually get lower as you add more items (i.e. 2 - 4 items drops shipping to 6.90EUR; 39.90EUR shipping for a single item).Hope all this helps.

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2014, 07:34:10 am
content: Quote from: Lightages on December 07, 2014, 02:25:16 pmFinally, I've shortlisted three meters. Between UT139C and Digitek DT-2843R, which one should I go for, price being equal?And, there is the shoot-out winner Extech Ex330, but this one isn't trueRMS capable.PS: Thanks for that video review on Digitek DT-2843R, that I just happened to check out.

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2014, 04:16:02 pm
content: Quote from: Thor-Arne on December 07, 2014, 10:02:36 amThanks for those links to Franky's domain. He sure seemed to be a nice person, and I shall very soon buy from him.Your recommendation makes me wonder why this forum doesn't have a place to list these good sellers. Might prove to be a good resource for everyone in general.Perhaps, we could contribute tothis list!!Cheers O0

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2014, 04:58:36 pm
content: Fellas,After a lot of deliberations and some serious time devoted toward watching/reading reviews, I've decided to go for theUT139C.Thanks to each individual member who directly or indirectly assisted me to arrive at the decision.Moving along, it's time for the side-cutter and a wire stripper. Just like you guys suggested, I suppose I ought to be careful not to fall prey to the el-cheapo strewn all over EBay.I was looking at Wiha, but the brand seems to burn a hole in my pocket. What do you guys suggest?

author: Maxlor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2014, 03:05:29 am
content: Wire strippers are easy. Get something that looks likethis one. This type of wire stripper is cheap since it's not a precision instrument (doesn't need to be), but it works quite well. Anything that looks vaguely like that is going to work. A 26-16AWG one probably covers most of your needs.As for side cutters, I don't really know which brands you can get over there. I mean, Knipex is a nice brand, but I doubt you can get them in NepalBut maybe you have a local hardware where you can inspect the cutters before buying them?What I can say is that small flush side cutters are quite nice for electronics, but they're a bit delicate and only suitable for small and soft stuff. If you use them for large cables or hard materials you'll ruin them quickly, so if you need to do that kind of cutting, use a more robust diagonal cutter.These btw are crap, as I found out:https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8794If you see a spring mechanism like that, avoid, they'll have cut costs on the other parts too.

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2014, 04:46:35 am
content: Quote from: Maxlor on December 10, 2014, 03:05:29 amThanks, though the link to the wire strippers requireupdating.Oh, and I'd wanted the side cutters for cutting off component leads, after soldering. For larger diameter wires and other cables, I have separate tools.After a decent investment on quality multimeter and soldering station, I would still not flinch to expend on these two tools, at least viz wire stripper & side cutter. So, please throw in your best quality suggestions for those.PS:My gradual, and sometimes extremely cautious approach, to choosing my tools are actually reaping a lot of essential knowledge in general electronics on the way. I know a lot more about soldering stations' & multimeters' cons, etc even before I possess them.

author: richard.cs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2014, 11:28:04 am
content: Quote from: xibalban on December 04, 2014, 01:27:50 pmOther people have answered most of your questions about what to buy I think but for making a ham radio you should really read this ebook:http://www.wa0itp.com/crystalsetsssb.htmlIt starts off with the basics and then guides you through to building a SSB HF tranceiver in blocks, where nearly every block you build is individually useful.

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2014, 02:05:57 pm
content: Quote from: richard.cs on December 10, 2014, 11:28:04 amThanks for noting my long-term goal, and thanks for the useful resource link. Appreciated.

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2014, 03:21:42 am
content: Hey folks,I'd been away for a while, and hope the board is doing fine.So, I've come to the end of the list, and procuring just one last tool requires your counsel: desoldering pump.Must I go for any al cheapo here, or are certain considerations required? And, what's with the wick, is that any useful compared to the pump?Cheers!!

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2014, 10:49:59 am
content: Quote from: xibalban on December 13, 2014, 03:21:42 amRegarding a desolder pump, el cheapo will do here.The general aluminum bodied types work well IME (example), but if you're after a quality name brand, take a look at anEdsyn Soldapult.As per wick, it's needed even with a pump (hand operated or desolder station) to clean up the pads, help with removing bridges, ... Just do yourself a favor, and get good quality here, or you'll end up with poor results and a lot of frustration (potentially even damage the PCB you're working on due to lifted traces).Goot makes good stuff, and is readily available in Asia as I understand it (made by Taiyo Industrial in Japan). Just be aware of the high level of counterfeits out there, and get it from a reliable source. Other brands to consider would be Chemtronics, Techspray, MG Chemicals, and Loctite/Multicore for example (not sure what's readily available out of these in your region).

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2014, 02:03:03 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on December 13, 2014, 10:49:59 amThanks for the advice, I'll go for a locally available one then, and will do the same for the wick. Let's see how they work out, I'd be salvaging and sorting components to begin with anyway.Oh, and is there any freeware drafting software available? I'd want to quickly prepare schematics, export those to JPEG (or other image) format and post them in the forum during our discussions, etc.

author: Thor-Arne
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 14, 2014, 03:14:43 pm
content: Personally I prefer KiCad, I've had no trouble with it (BZR4694) running on Windows 7.Have a look atthisthread.

author: Yago
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2014, 01:00:21 am
content: Quote from: Maxlor on December 06, 2014, 04:24:34 pmNot sure if this is the problem changing tips...Have you a black collar for each tip?The collar stays with the hot tip to put on the stand, and the cold one attached with another collar.http://www.tme.eu/en/details/ersa-3it1040/soldering-tips/ersa/3it1040-00/#There's little brass posts that go into the stand to hold the hot and cold spare tips and collars too.

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2014, 04:39:02 am
content: Hi folks,Do you guys use a "panavise"? What alternatives do you recommend for holding the PCB when soldering/desoldering through-hole components?Feel free to post pictures too, since I'm pretty confused given the choices available.Cheers!!

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2014, 06:19:20 am
content: Quote from: xibalban on December 18, 2014, 04:39:02 amPersonally, I do use Panavise and love it (seems a bit expensive on the surface, but I find it highly useful and will last a lifetime if not abused).Started with the301 kit(standard 303 vise head + 300 base), and added both a315 circuit board holderand a376 Wide Self-Centering head. Base is mounted to a piece of scrap steel plate I picked up for a few bucks, hit with a $1.00 can of spray paint, and added some rubber feet (cheaper than any of the base mounts they offer, and it's very stable).There's also some really good ways to DIY some very nice, and usable helping hands from Loc-Line or similar flexible CNC coolant hose as well (this thread might be of interest).

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2015, 06:05:06 am
content: So, I'm tempted to assemble my own first project with a few components.Am I good to go with a general purpose perforated PCB or is it more fun to design a proper PCB out of copper clad boards?Is a permanent marker enough to transfer my first routing diagrams onto the board? For discussion's sake, mine is a tiny dc voltage regulator circuit using an LM317.I've also seen those PCB etching pens strewn all over EBay. Are they any good?PS:Wish all you goodfellas a very happy 2015!!

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2015, 06:11:27 am
content: I remember doing it with brass nails and a hunk of wood. Real breadboarding.Sharpies used to be used for direct to copper layout, easy enough to test.Perfboard is fine and last a long time for one offs.Making pcb's is a part of electronics, no need if it's a simple circuit though.

author: Syntax_Error
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2015, 06:28:39 pm
content: Like in this video:

author: xibalban
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2015, 09:53:59 am
content: Quote from: Syntax_Error on January 04, 2015, 06:28:39 pmThanks for sharing the link to that inspiring video!Quote from: pickle9000 on January 03, 2015, 06:11:27 amIs it sane to trace tracks on the perf-board by joining each hole using solder? Or, is it more usual to use jumper wires on the other side?

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2015, 01:22:55 pm
content: Quote from: xibalban on January 07, 2015, 09:53:59 amNo, the spacing between pads on perfboard is too much for the solder to easily bridge. Lay out your circuit as a single sided board with the traces on the bottom. Use bare wire to form the traces. Don't bother to twist leads and wires together, just use solder like glue. It's easier to modify or repair that way.