What Connectors ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Infa Red
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 21, 2021, 09:26:30 am
content: Hi guys. Yes I am new. I must apologize in advance for such a ridiculously easy question, but I swear I been googling for days with not finding the exact correct thing I need. With Radio Shack out of business, literally everywhere I go physically doesn't have what I need either. (god Radio Shack was great).So I am wiring a clock power. And this time I do NOT want to solder, as its just a pain for when you want to service it. So I'd like to instead, this time, use some sort of slide on connector. This way I can slide it off if/when necessary.Seems easy enough. And I figured I'd use them Quick Disconnect tab things. Well, I can find the ones that fit the wire (18g), but the tab end is WAY too big for the lead I need to slip it on. The lead I need to slip it on is about 3/64". The smallest tab on the Quick Disconnect that fits a 18g wire is WAY to big to even pull a Fred Sanford and "make work" by crimping it to grip the lead. Plus if I do that, honestly it would be messy to take off then. So back to square root 1. lolSurely they have something meant to slip onto and off of these common lead sizes ? I seen molex like connecters have that size. But can't find a single wire one anywhere either.See pic - that lead is 3/64" wide and I want to attach a 18g stranded wire to it with a connector that I can take on and off without soldering. Any help/info referrals much appreciated - thanks !

author: gcewing
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2021, 10:17:25 am
content: Instead of trying to find connectors to fit those lugs, solder on some short wires leading to a separate connector. You'll have much more freedom of choice then.

author: Gregg
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2021, 07:00:08 pm
content: Do a search for JST connectors. The male pins are 1.13mm; close to what you describe. You may have to slightly crimp or open the female terminals to fit, but it probably will be close enough with a little bit of modification.Also take a small file and take the sharp corners off the pins you show in the picture. A little electrical grade grease will help if the fit is really tight.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2021, 07:30:46 pm
content: There are a number of square post connector (header) systems on the market, some that come real close to fitting 0.046" square posts. The Molex Micro-Fit 3 system might be too tight. There are various header strip systems on the market, this itemhttps://www.digikey.com/en/htmldatasheets/production/1040846/0/0/1/00100810xx-11xx-drawing.htmlwould likely have compatible sockets as the post diameter (round) is very close. So shopping around for a header socket that would mate properly would be one approach.An approach that I'm far more likely to use on a bench setup is to make use of a barrier block like:https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/weidm%C3%BCller/7906250000/3979224.Such a block might not be suitable for production on this type of clock motor but for a temporary solution on a bench they are very nice. For one the setscrew type clamping prevents stuff pulling apart. Beyond that they are very reusable. In production machinery they can be preferred over DIN rail mount solutions for a number of reasons, but the big one is that they are low profile. That doesn't matter in this case. Weidmüller make some nice stuff so you could consider permanent use if you found a good mounting solution.I'd look into the Sta-Kon and similar crimp on terminal suppliers, to see if they have anything that comes close.By the way no mention of the voltages involved here. Even on the bench you should be a safe as possible so consider that in your choice.On of your better options has already been mentioned. That is solder short leads to the terminals and then use whatever wire to wire solution you would like.

author: Infa Red
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 22, 2021, 11:55:45 pm
content: Thanks so much for the help guys ! Great place.Quote from: gcewing on July 21, 2021, 10:17:25 amYes this is indeed a good idea. The issue that I would need to be carful of is, the picture I am showing is of the housing taken off. Once back on, the room I have is seriously almost zilch ! (you know small clocks) lol . Its a old Coca Cola clock which is the only reason I even care so much to so all this. So what you say is doable and admittedly the best option if they do not make direct disconnects for these leads, but I'd need to keep whatever I do no more thick than approx 2 18g wires thicknesses. And also not protrude too far up past the leads too.Quote from: Gregg on July 21, 2021, 07:00:08 pmThis is possibly exactly what I am looking for, thanks ! It caused me to stumble across other things too. So this JST thing is the ticket here. (maybe) - There is actually a JST like Molex female "socket" thing I found that is looking like its worth a try. @wizard69 actually mentioned it too And yes, thank you for that good advice to file down the corners on these pins.. Thanks !Quote from: wizard69 on July 21, 2021, 07:30:46 pmSorry yes, I did leave the voltage out. lol I didn't think it was necessary because its just a clock motor. Relatively simple thing. Matter fact they are so funny that polarity doesn't matter ! But its a 120v standard USA plug thing that powers it, but mainly to power the bulb (its a light up Coca Cola clock). Now for the clock, the 120v power hits some transformer type thing, in which I am sure makes the power way lower cause this clock motor is tiny and doesn't need much of anything. Everything I am working on is unplugged, so no rush there. And as far as wire gauge, I just am replacing what was there originally, so I am changing nothing as far as safety. I greatly appreciate you concern though. I always try to be super safe. This is not my profession at all. I am cursed/blessed with being a bit mechanically inclined though, so I will fix my own stuff. lol So if these connectors can handle whatever a 18g wire can handle, then it should be fine. (theoretically speaking).The links you gave come up dead. But the Molex3 thing rang out with the JST thing that @Gregg mentioned as far as stumbling across something good - and they both are bringing me to something that looks the best so far. I think its what you said, but the inner socket part only.https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/43030-0007?qs=MuwpYaHj75276x2HQaDYIw%3D%3D&mgh=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6NTqwez38QIVwAytBh0t0wBYEAQYBSABEgJ0IPD_BwEBut IDK - maybe I can bend/manip it to fit. Looks close enough and will stay slimline in the housing.