hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Extra cheap engraver - how crappy is it? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2014, 08:00:02 am
content: Hi guys,I found these thingies on ebay:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-Mini-Laser-300mW-Engraving-Machine-DIY-Carving-Logo-Picture-Marking-Printer-/251725633629?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a9c04585dObviously, it's just for those simple uses like marking a small piece of plastic and similar, but I've doubts that it could do even that - 300mW is not exactly amazing. Does anyone have any experience with this (or similar) thingie?Thanks,David

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2014, 07:22:22 pm
content: 2 majorly butchered used 3.5in drives provide the motion, the laser cut box and the laser module is interesting, but i doubt it will do more than blacken paper. Small working space as well.

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2014, 07:44:12 pm
content: Looks like it will cut 2mm semi-rigid foam (according to the last 2 photos).The size limit is strictly a matter of the mechanical stage/slide assembly.At that price, not bad for a single-purpose machine.Clever re-cycling of old optical drive sleds.It says "More than 10 available".I wonder if he has some big pile of recycled drives?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2014, 07:51:56 pm
content: Quote from: Richard Crowley on December 01, 2014, 07:44:12 pmIt's China, they have a near unlimited supply of old shite nobody wants, and they're more than willing to tart it up and sell it to you.

author: denelec
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2014, 11:05:30 pm
content: Does it comes with protection goggles?If not, you should buy some. And do not let the kids play with it.A 300mW laser can be dangerous to your eyes.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2014, 11:51:47 pm
content: Yes, it comes with goggles.It says it's a violet laser, probably 405nm from a blue ray burner.

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2014, 08:46:44 am
content: Thanks for the opinions. There seem to be similar machines available on ebay within that price range and of similar construction.Do you think it would be able to engrave the solder mask on a PCB with a serial number or similar?Thanks,David

author: Gall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2014, 06:09:38 pm
content: The laser is bad. Laser diodes cannot produce good engraving. They can only burn text on wood. Such a laser may cut black foam but the cut quality is not good due to low laser power (needs long time to cut => enough time for thermal deformation).

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2014, 08:09:04 pm
content: Quote from: daqq on December 02, 2014, 08:46:44 amMaybe. Too many unknowns.Does your board fit within the very tiny working area?How well does that power (and wavelength) of laser beam mark the solder mask on your boards?What kind of quality and speed/throughput expectations do you have?
surprised at Magic Jack PCB quality - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: waspinator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2014, 03:18:56 am
content: My MagicJack VoIP dongle died (after 3 years), so I took it apart to see how it looks. Surprisingly it looks really nice. They pretty much give them away for free if you pay for the service, so I was expecting worse.Anyway, just thought I'd share some photos of it for posterity.

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2014, 12:15:05 pm
content: That power transformer is pretty horrible though.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

author: waspinator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2014, 05:30:13 pm
content: just the transformer or the whole power adapter? It doesn't have an IC, but otherwise (to my untrained eye) looks okay. It is what died and probably what killed the the actual dongle though, so I believe you.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2014, 06:01:52 pm
content: PSU does have a tiny 6 pin controller, though I suspect what died is Q8 on the main board, it looks like it ran really hot looking at the golden brown tinge on the heat tab and the crusty solder the leads are sitting in. Seeing as it likely generates the 48V phone bus voltage that is no wonder. I would suspect C86 is pretty likely very high ESR or open circuit as well.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2014, 07:54:58 pm
content: Here is one of the original ones, it was still working but we have since upgraded to the one that doesn't need a PC. Edit: the one we have now is probably the same as what the OP posted.

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2014, 02:48:53 pm
content: Quote from: waspinator on November 30, 2014, 05:30:13 pmSorry, yeah, the whole adapter. The soldering isn't the best, no heat sinking for the main FET, right next to a big cap, etc.As mentioned, that's what most likely blew.Sent from my Tablet
Accessories for Fluke TL71 probes (Pomona 5519A?) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2014, 11:33:58 am
content: Am looking for accessories for my Fluke TL71 probes.I can't justify $30 for a set of Fluke AC175 alligator clips (I have several meters) is there any after market compatible clips that are up to spec? Pomona still doing them?

author: Yago
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2014, 01:04:33 pm
content: Brymen do some nice ones, Franky sells them.Brymen generally do have their stuff UL tested, I haven't checked to see.They do have cat 3 1000v/cat4 600v on them.
FTDI Serial Drivers again?! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: westfw
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2014, 12:16:11 pm
content: So what's up with this? I thought it was supposed to be "fixed", but:1) There have been a recent flurry of reports of bricked Arduino Nano boards.2) There is no new version of the driver at FTDI.3) "Search windows update for driver" is apparently still sending the broken 2.12 (at least to my W7 laptop.)4) There's a 7-nov "optional" windows driver update for FTDI, but it fails to actually install (on said W7 laptop.) Mostly some unknown error code, but occasionally "you already have a newer driver."5) It seems to be a real PITA to get W7 to use an older version of a driver. It kept "helpfully" updating a manually-installed 2.10 to 2.12.WTF? (Can someone confirm this sort of behavior? Windows in not my primary OS, so the laptop might not be "well configured. But I didn't expect this level of difficulty! Also, I don't think I have any counterfeit FT232 chips/boards, so I guess they could have "fixed" the problem without updating the driver version number (which would be stupid and unlikely.) Did anyone ever end up with a contact at Microsoft and/or FTDI who claimed to be "handling" this particular problem? Hopefully the latest state of brokenness is some silly mistake somewhere, due to incompetence, and not "oh, we'll just wait a while and try the brickware again!" malfeasance... Not that that would be good. :-( )

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2014, 03:37:53 pm
content: It's best to not let Windows update drivers for hardware, since most of the time it is barely able to update itself correctly. The option for this is not in Windows Update, but in the "Advanced system settings".
Oscillofun on Rigol DS1000z - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: loneoceans
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2014, 06:16:18 am
content: Hi,I recently watched Dave's video on YouScope and he went through a bit of trouble to get it working properly on his nice Agilent scope. I did a search and it seems like the best results for this and similar X-Y scope displays was on analog scopes, but I wanted to give this a go with my Rigol DS1074.After some adjusting, I got this to work:I was also wondering if it was possible to increase not only the size of the X-Y display in the 1000 series scopes, and if anyone had any ideas or suggestions on how I could improve the quality of the display on the Rigol, or if I'm just limited by the physical capabilities of the scope.Thanks!
Somebody know Keyence microscopes? (Video demo. electronica 2014) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ielektros
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 02:18:57 pm
content: Hi,I try to find somebody who know theKeyencemicroscopes. If somebody worked with that enough too. This micros are really amazing and the UI too. I was on "electronica 2014" in Germany and there I saw a little demo about this instrument. Really really nice. I forgot to ask the price range. I think the price is not understable for humans.If somebody have some experience with Keyence instruments please post some info.Sorry because of my english...https://www.dropbox.com/s/z0z65hjobrthwqw/IMG_0528.MOV?dl=0
Review and teardown of the PowerCube power strip - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: fubar.gr
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 26, 2014, 02:18:16 pm
content: I recently bought this power strip/USB charger combo from a local hardware store for 20€.It is made by this Netherlands based company:http://www.allocacoc.com/Bit disappointed by the soldered joints, but at least they were well made.

author: fubar.gr
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 27, 2014, 06:29:34 pm
content: I have added some hi res photos and more info here:http://fubar.gr/review-teardown-powercube-allocacoc/
How to Change the Tip of a DuraTech TS-1564 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cpsmusic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 10:00:26 am
content: Hi Folks,I recently bought a Duratech TS-1564 soldering iron. It's got a conical tip which I want to change to a chisel tip.I can't find any instructions regarding how to do this.I can't see how the tip is attached - does it just push on? I've tried (gently) to remove the tip but it seems to be on pretty tight. Is it attached somehow? Does it just pull off?Any help with this would be much appreciated.Cheers,Chris

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 03:39:33 pm
content: Have you checked if it screws in? I had a radio shack firestick years ago that the tips screwed in. Hated it because they always loosened.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 03:42:08 pm
content: This?Undo the nut at the base, pull the tube off. The tip slides off the element.

author: cpsmusic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 09:04:44 pm
content: Yes, that's the one.I tried using a bit more force but it seems to be stuck on really tightly. Hmmm....should I use some sort of lubricant?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 09:05:59 pm
content: If you undo that nut fully you should just be able to pull that sleeve off.

author: cpsmusic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 09:52:59 pm
content: The metal sleeve comes off easily - it's the white ceramic (?) part that seems to be stuck.

author: cpsmusic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 11:20:52 pm
content: The attached image might make things clearer.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2014, 12:08:41 am
content: Keep pulling and give it a gentle twist, it should come free eventually. If it's really stuck you might destroy the heater getting it off, mind. They're easily enough replaced..

author: cpsmusic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2014, 12:20:52 am
content: Got it off!Wow, it was on really tight!I didn't want to squash the heater part so I tried hitting it with a screwdriver and hammer along the shaft. Eventually it began to loosen up and then I pulled it off with some pliers. Not sure if I've done any damage - hope not.Thanks for the help.Cheers,Chris
Protek B810 - Sweep/Burst/AM Modulation ~ HELP - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MatheusMeM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 22, 2014, 02:52:41 am
content: Hello everyone!I'm a electronics engineering student here in Brazil and I recently got an old Protek B810 Function Generator from a Lab. Even though I figured out how to use the more simple functoins on it, the AM modulation / Sweep / Burst section still isn't clear for me. Could some one help me please to understand it or to find the manual.thanks for everything

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2014, 06:08:46 am
content: The manual is available here:https://www.scribd.com/doc/202663385/Gen-Func-Protek-B-810Ed
Seeking for help in Hercules LVS in Synopsys - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Sivand12
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2014, 11:31:09 am
content: So I'm "lay-outing" a resistor in Synopsys, I ran a Hercules DRC to check and it's cleanSo when I tried to run a Hercules LVS to check it, it doesn't workright now I have a filename called empty.subckt, how can I use that subcircuit in order to run a LVS check in my layout?Thank you
Bertan PMT-10C/N HV power supply teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Alexei.Polkhanov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2014, 07:28:48 am
content: Here I have Bertan PMT-10C/N HV power supply teardown. Full size images can be found athttps://plus.google.com/photos/116960055711068468555/albums/6079436339181397681I purchased this -1000V supply with intention to convert it to +1KV positive voltage, but I had limited success in doing that.Photos of board, schematics and some captured waveforms included.Enjoy.
Printer Error - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EEVaditya
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2014, 06:44:35 pm
content: Hello,Printer Model: brother FAX-2490CError I am getting is " cleaning unable 46"Please provide the solution for above problem

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2014, 06:55:04 pm
content: http://support.brother.com/g/b/faqend.aspx?c=us&lang=en&prod=fax2480c_us_as&ftype3=1964&faqid=faq00002611_000

author: EEVaditya
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2014, 05:13:38 pm
content: Hello,My model is FAX2490C .you have given link related to FAX2480C

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2014, 07:49:20 pm
content: It doesn't matter, it's the same problem.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2014, 08:04:54 pm
content: Likely you will need to reprogram EEPROM, absorber itself likely have enough life left in it. It is just counter that ran out.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2014, 08:05:48 pm
content: Quote from: EEVaditya on November 13, 2014, 05:13:38 pmAre you sure? Google don't seem to know anything about FAX2490C.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2014, 08:31:35 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on November 13, 2014, 08:05:48 pmYeah, that's why I showed the same error for a close model.

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 14, 2014, 08:36:37 am
content: Quote from: wraper on November 13, 2014, 08:05:48 pm2490C is probably a store exclusive but the same as a 2480C.
Obsolete Parts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Tandy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2014, 12:30:59 pm
content: I have collected quite a few old electronics magazines and books. Call me old fashioned but I quite like building some of these old circuits even though many of them could be done using a single modern IC there is something satisfying about building things from the desecrate components.The trouble is many of the components are difficult to find. I know there are a few places that have some old stock and you can sometimes pick things up at on ebay or radio rallies etc but these sources are not sustainable in the long run when the parts are gone. Sometimes there are often small companies that still manufacture components that are no longer mainstream.So this thread is really a question about what parts people know about that are still being made and you were surprised to find. I have been searching for Germanium Transistors and Nixe Tubes but so far have failed to find anyone still producing them.

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2014, 12:49:02 pm
content: For a lot of hard to get parts (mainly semiconductors) I have found that Futurlec are very good. A company in Canada called Sphere sell nixie tubes as New Old Stock, they also sell slide rules for those like me who remember themAs for germanium transistors you need to start hitting Google but it will be a hard search, a Google search for AC128 for example shows an Air Canada flight from Calgary to Torontohttp://www.futurlec.com/http://www.sphere.bc.ca/

author: Rascal
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2014, 01:08:09 pm
content: I think you might struggle to get many new parts, certainly not a wide selection of parts thats for sure.I realised this some time ago and consequently spent a number of years stripping out components from new and old equipmentYou can find a few suppliers selling NOS but usually never the part you want.I guess a sustainable source would only be available if demand was great enough.

author: mazurov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2014, 06:16:15 pm
content: In the states, sellers of old stuff are rarely reasonable. If you want good price look elsewhere. For example, there is a ton of Russian parts on eBay, many with English description containing the word "germanium". Part number starting with 1 or letter "?" also means germanium. Some parts are quite fresh, i.e., less than 5 years old.Same for Ukraine, Belarus, Bulgaria, and other Warsaw Pact countries.
alternatives encoder - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: linhdcn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 14, 2014, 04:24:24 am
content: So now in Robot product, this encoder ( in attachments) is not continue manufacturing so we need to find any alternatives parts.Please help me find another one.thank you!

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2014, 02:56:28 pm
content: Why don’t you ask the manufacturer for a replacement?
New Raspberry Pi Model A+ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rolycat
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2014, 01:20:20 pm
content: The Raspberry Pi foundationannounceda new version of their lowest cost single board computer yesterday:Unlike the model B+, they haven't maintained the same price as the previous model - the new computer is actually $5cheaperat just $20. And it's still made in the UK.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2014, 01:42:20 pm
content: $20 uhuh, in UK indeed (15 pounds at Farnell) but in another country for instance NL, Farnell asks €24.- ($29)

author: Tandy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2014, 01:54:48 pm
content: Price is excluding Tax and delivery so it is not going to be the same everywhere.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2014, 01:58:41 pm
content: Quote from: Tandy on November 11, 2014, 01:54:48 pmWhy not, you said it yourself, this price is excl. TAX and delivery, as are the prices of FarnellEdit: might be the shipping, because Farnell ships for free for companies... hmmmm sucks being a private individual sometimes

author: rolycat
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2014, 02:12:32 pm
content: Quote from: Kjelt on November 11, 2014, 01:58:41 pmSome companies do offer free shipping to individuals - for exampleCPCare selling the A+ for £16.84 including VAT and free shipping.CPC are UK/Ireland only, though.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2014, 05:39:59 pm
content: Quote from: rolycat on November 11, 2014, 01:20:20 pmLots more GPIOs, could be interesting for automating an old Tektronix 567/6R1A combo....

author: rolycat
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2014, 05:56:15 pm
content: Quote from: Alex Eisenhut on November 11, 2014, 05:39:59 pmThe A+ is intended primarily for embedding in projects where size or power consumption is an issue, since it is not only less wide but almost half the height of the B+ board - and consumes half the power.I'd think the additional memory and USB sockets and the Ethernet port on the B+ might be useful in test gear automation applications, and of course the I/O capabilities are identical.
Homemade Handheld Generator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ResR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2014, 05:47:07 pm
content: Low power handheld generator I built out of scrap parts only, initially just to test that it is possible to build anything from scrap. It looks like it could fit to Metro 2033 game. First test with neon bulb tlo-1-2 and wall power supply with 12V 100mA output feeding 5 groups of 3 orange led's and 330 ohm resistor (dumpster dive led strip pieces) resulted successful.The motor has a magnetic rotor and stationary coil, it also has a servo gearbox, that is now used to turn up the speed, all metal gears, I also removed a locking mechanism from the inside of the motor.
Circuit Specialists BK6000/Aoyue 2072A+ - Temperature monitoring? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 10, 2014, 03:14:15 pm
content: Has anyone got a BK6000 or a Aoyue 2702A+ (It's based on this)I have just got one as an additional machine to go on another bench here, however the temperature regulation seems to be gibberish?Say I plug the desoldering gun in, set temp to 350, it climbs for a few secs and then bang it's 350? no way is it 350! Can't happen that quickly!!Same goes when lowering the temp often it goes from c to C and claims the temp I have just lowered it to is instant?, if you set a wide range from 200-480 it does climb up or down, but not all the way it will do it for a few seconds then show it's got to temp or lowered to temp.The soldering iron suffers the same behaviour, it never shows the temp fluctuate (every iron I own fluctuates a degree or more) when idling or soldering.I can't use an iron/desoldering gun if temperature regulation isn't working, I have no idea when it's at the requested temperature!I need to know if mine is faulty or this is a design flaw as I don't know whether to get it replaced or refunded.I noticed the Aoyue 2073A+ displays the temperature correctly looking at videos and shows the temp climb/decrease for both the soldering iron and the desoldering gun.
Is there an open harware project for a RS232 to Ethernet adapter? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: con-f-use
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 08, 2014, 02:16:10 pm
content: I'm looking for an open source hardware project to bridge RS232 over LAN. Do you know of something like that?

author: jeremy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2014, 02:22:26 pm
content: Raspberry Pi perhaps?

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2014, 09:15:34 pm
content: You can do this with an Arduino clone for under $20 in an afternoon.Ethernet shield + Telnet library and your choice of USB-serial (on board) or external RS232 level converter.If you care - drop the arduino, and use any micro with an ethernet adapter and library.
Hot air, IR, or something else altogether? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nikkivee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 06, 2014, 07:41:21 pm
content: Greetings friends,New forum member but long time fan of Dave and the EEVblog, here. I believe this is the correct forum, but please move the topic if not.Anyway, I'm curious about the best kind of device to invest in for replacing smd flat-flex connectors. Specifically, on Apple iPad logic boards (An image of the board, and connectors can be seehere, with the connectors seen on the upper-right side of the upper image.I've had moderate success with standard iron techniques, but as these repairs are becoming less rare for me, I figured there must be a better way to deal with these things. My gut tells me that a hot air rework station would make life a lot easier, but not having worked with one before, I was hoping for some input from those who know better than I.I'd appreciate any thoughts on better ways to approach this repair, be it hot air rework, or any other suggestions.Thanks!Quick edit: I had spent some time on Google looking for advice on this specific kind of smd ffc connector, but wasn't able to come up with much, so thought I'd inquire here.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2014, 01:43:25 am
content: For removing those connectors hot air would definitely be my choice. Soldering them back: big tip and a good no-clean flux pen. Using no-clean flux is important because other flux types may get onto the contacts which are very hard to clean.

author: gmit77
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2014, 05:31:04 pm
content: I agree with nctnico, today you can get hot air systems with very little nozzle (ideal for small components) and setting the proper temp and airflow you will get a super job done!Good luck!
TL866 Linux support - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wiss
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2014, 05:49:37 pm
content: Maybe there should be a specific support thread for TL866 on Linux?I would need one anyway!I got my TL866A todayUsing the minipro utility it seems that I can read eproms,reading a erased 2716 gives me a 2 kB file full of ones,reading the gpib-eprom from a dmm gives me 2 kB of ASCIII-gibberish, the same gibberish several times, seems reasonable.Writing:eprom: "SGS M2716"# ./minipro -p "M2716 @DIP24" -c code -w testFound Minipro TL866A v3.62.2Writing Code... OKReading Code... OKVerification failed at 0x20: 0x68 != 0xffReading it back will give me a file of all 1.Suggestions?

author: jinzo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2014, 07:34:22 pm
content: I would report the bug on minipro utility github - they're probably the most qualified to check what could go wrong.But from my usage of TL866 on windows and linux utility it's really sensitive about the connections. I don't have experience with other programmers - but TL866 will sometimes happily "read" all 1 or 0 when it doesen't have a good contact on all pins (and that can be quite troublesome I must say). So maybe it's a contact/connection problem. As a last resort the official program works (or at least it did work) fine when ran in wine - so you could try that.Good luck.

author: wiss
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2014, 07:55:31 pm
content: A windows computer suddenly appeared, same behaviour with the official software...

author: wiss
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2014, 11:10:22 am
content: From the SGS M2716 datasheet: Vpp = 25+-1 V, Program Pulse Width > 45 msFrom MiniProV 6.00 : Vpp = 21 V, Pulse Delay = 1000 usIs Pulse Delay = Program Pulse Width?Anyway, this high voltage 2716 eprom is not supported.

author: wiss
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2014, 04:45:07 pm
content: Successfully wrote a ST M27C256B, the writing works (on some devices).But I fail to specify the ST-version to the CLI-util, there are several entries with the same name in devices.h: bug(?), heading over to the github now.
HP goes 3D - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2014, 10:09:27 pm
content: In color and different materials:HP Link:http://www8.hp.com/us/en/commercial-printers/floater/3Dprinting.htmlC-Nethttp://www.cnet.com/news/as-hp-moves-into-3d-printing-there-may-still-be-room-for-the-little-guys/<re/code>http://recode.net/2014/10/31/hewlett-packards-3-d-printer-is-essentially-a-replicator/

author: a210210200
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2014, 05:44:16 am
content: Given how they advertise the cost reduction and sped-up in ratios to the current competition it is going to be one expensive high end machine. Still a very big improvement because we have a old industrial 3d printer gathering dust in a back room because servicing it probably is going to cost more than HP's machine by a few times over. (it is a really old 3d printer and the shop manager got pissed at the oem)Also their 10x claim is vs. selective laser sintering machines while HP's is some sort of inkjet (glue jet) 3d printer. (PageWide technology is also in there too, those heads are pretty neat and is probably where they are getting the big speed up)
Xytronic LF8800K, Hakko FR300, or other desoldering tool? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: garbagelarge
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 05, 2014, 04:57:25 am
content: My garage was recently broken into and my tools stolen including my Hakko 808 desoldering gun. I am in the market to replace it and am curious if anyone has experience with either of the models mentioned in the thread title.I was hoping to move from the gun to a station/pencil-type setup, but don't wish to so at the expense of quality.Any thoughts?Thanks,Ben
Hakko FX888/936 SMD tweezer hack   - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2014, 05:31:17 am
content: Not my video, a cheap set of SMD tweezers if you use a fake tip.Link here:Quick & Easy Desoldering Hakko SMD 0402 0603 0805 (fixed tweezer)

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2014, 05:45:34 am
content: That's coolEdit: I wonder if you actually need to cut off the old tips tip, or just done for clearance.

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2014, 07:41:53 pm
content: I think i could mod my crusty cheap stock tip that came with my KADA 936D+ station.
Please improve on Flaky guestimate teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: GertKruger
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 27, 2014, 10:49:06 am
content: I saw a, but seriously, I think Dave could (and should) do a much better job!Here is my objections to as it is:1. The guy (Lee Teshcler) hypothesized that the huge caps are used in an oscillator, but then admits himself that it is probably not the case, why then mention it at all? BTW, the caps are probably for power supply decoupling.2. His analogy to a PLC for his intended audience is very reductionistic.3. He reckons the arm based processor is only for usb transfer. I dont think so... If all the processing occured on the host computer that would seriously slow it down, the arm processor is powerful enough to do some serious processing, filtering, feature extraction, etc. Just because the device can also send over the unprocessed data for the user to inspect the data and perform algorithm prototyping on the raw data does not imply that the data is processed on the host.Regards.

author: dexters_lab
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 28, 2014, 01:33:31 pm
content: actually i think it was valid to mention the possibility of the caps being an oscillator, teardowns are about learning how someone came to make the design decisions and what is applicable in different situations

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2014, 11:01:50 pm
content: Quote from: dexters_lab on October 28, 2014, 01:33:31 pmNonsense - anyone with half a clue would know these are to provide the high peak current for the LED illumination
Where do I get the service manual for my Sony projector? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: con-f-use
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 02:30:32 pm
content: So I have a Sony VPL-HW10 movie projector in my hands. It won't accept the new bulb I bought. That is it works fine for 2 minutes with picture an everything and then it shuts off. The indicator that "The lamp has reached the end of its life or reached a high temperature" is blinking. Now I need the service manual to disable the test, because it obviously doesn't work. The fans work just fine and cooling is okay. But the manual would be useful otherwise, too. I also want to customize it a bit.Any idea where to get the service manuals. Websites you can buy them from look shady. I tried one and lost my 4$ (got them back from paypal). Any place else?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 03:32:50 pm
content: Are all the fans running, and more importantly are the fan rotation signals getting to the controller. Checking the fans all work, and that the sense output is operating, are going to be first tests.Look on Norcal's YT channel, he has done some video on these sony projectors and the faults.

author: con-f-use
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 04:28:59 pm
content: I checked the fans they are running and signaling. The indicator specifically means, that the lamp is bad. There is another for fans.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 05:04:44 pm
content: Must be a software or keypress to get to a service menu then to reset the counter. Try to google for the service menu instructions.

author: con-f-use
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 05:33:32 pm
content: There is a "resent lamp counter" option in the menu. I reset it after I installed the new lamp. And yes, I found the normal user manual online that covers how to change the lamp. I did follow it to the letter. Now I want to know how to prevent the projector from turning off for the time being until I can try another fresh lamp. May the new one they send me is defective in deed, but I doubt it. On the long run, I'd like to but a 50W led in there so the service manual would be useful in any case.The norcal715 channel does look interesting. I only found stuff on Sony TVs and just very few about movie projectors though.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 05:48:37 pm
content: Lamp thermistor is open circuit then. Possibly it is a thermal switch or a thermistor that you could transfer from the old lamp assembly.

author: con-f-use
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 06:32:28 pm
content: I doubt there is one. I think most projectors measure the response curve of the lamp to detect ageing. I attached the assembly minus the blulp. There's nothing but the vent holes in the projectors lamp compartment. Unless they wired the thermistor inside the lamp and use the same contacts for power, I don't think I'll be that lucky.
Evaluation of a 36V lead-acid battery charger - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 29, 2014, 04:25:14 pm
content: I have a 36V motor on my bicycle that I power by three 12V lead-acid batteries wired in series, which I've been rewiring in parallel every time I charge it. But I want to make a "sealed" battery package which I could use in the rain and would plug into a charger without rewiring. (Of course it's not completely sealed, gassing etc)So I was looking for a 36V charger that would let me charge the batteries in series, although not optimal I'll give it a shot. I came across this cheap one.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131311730942Despite all the overhyped sales-terms, is it any good? Safe?Main board:Main board traces/underside:MCU board:MCU diagram:https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15526481/36vcharg/diagram.JPGMCU spec sheet:https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15526481/36vcharg/SH79F081A%20CV1.0.pdfIf you have other information on series-charging lead-acids, feel free to share

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2014, 01:44:07 pm
content: I had a similar problem with a 24 V lawn mower battery, which is 2 x 12 V in series. I hated charging in series. This battery pack happens to use an IEC socket as a connector(!), and only used the outer two poles of the connector. I connected the third pole to the center tap so that I could plug in my custom charger* and charge the two batteries separately.If you bring out the two intermediate connections, then you can do the same and charge the three batteries separately (not in parallel). You can use three 12V chargers, provided that their outputs are floating, i.e. transformer isolated and not grounded.*my "custom charger" is simply a dual output lab power supply with each output set to 13.8 V and 2.0 A. Occassionally I do a top-up charge to 14.4 V but only when I know I will be around to manually stop it (set back to 13.8 V) at the appropriate time. Otherwise, it is set-and-forget.

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2014, 02:01:29 pm
content: At first the boards looks good, but looking at some details I would not trust it:- The fan cable going from the secondary side through a hole on the primary side is a really bad design: It can easily make contact with some pins on the primary side if they punch the insulation.- The mains fuse looks a bit small.

author: sunnyhighway
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2014, 08:07:52 pm
content: Quote from: bktemp on October 30, 2014, 02:01:29 pmWould't say the design is bad. I'm more inclined to think the folks responsible for component sourcing and/or assembly were trying to save 2 cents on connectors for the fan cable.
Looking for a new (E)EPROM programmer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MrPete1985
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 25, 2014, 07:09:23 pm
content: Hey everyone just joined today.I am looking for a new EEPROM/EPROM programmer, currently I have a Willem GQ-4X and it is OK for 32 pin DIP chips but anything that I need an adapter for it's hit or miss.Currently I am looking at the Xeltek SuperPro 610P but I have not been able to find any reviews on them. Does anyone here use a Xeltek programmer and how well does it work? I will be programming 32 and 42 27C series chips, 29F series TSOP chips and maybe a few MX29L3211 SOP chipsThanks for reading.

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2014, 07:48:36 pm
content: I have a now obsolete SP3000. It didn't get a lot of use and now gets hardly any.It did everything I asked of it without problem.One of my customers also has an SP3000 and on my recommendation about a year ago bought a 601S for a second location. They have had no problems with it.

author: MrPete1985
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 02:42:01 pm
content: Thanks for the input, I think I will pick up one
Teardown request: a modern induction cooktop - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jeremy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2014, 02:50:47 pm
content: hi all,I'm very curious to see a decent teardown and explanation of a good quality, modern induction stove. I know how they work in principle, but it would be cool to see a Dave/mike-style teardown full of "hey, that's funny, why did they do that? Oh that's why..." dialog.Can anyone recommend one?Thanks.

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2014, 06:31:48 pm
content: I'd like to see that too. I just got an older GE counter top unit (think it is Hitachi) at my camp and want to use it for lunchtime cooking. I have 60V DC from my solar panels, next year it will be 75V. I use excess solar power to heat water for showers now. Have closed up the camp this year so can't investigate till next year. I would like to run it directly off raw solar panel DC if I can or at worst a small boost converter at 600W maximum. Think the power of the unit is 1KW. Don't know if they vary pwm to adjust power or they do phase angle off AC mains and let inverter run with whatever it gets. Camp runs on micro controller so all loads are prioritized for best efficiency.
Mantis Elite best lens for SMD work - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: eurofox
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 30, 2014, 07:46:33 am
content: I would like to know what is the best lens to buy for SMD work?Maybe someone got a spare lens that is not needed anymorefor a good price

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2014, 08:52:08 am
content: X4 is fine for pretty much everything. The problem with higher magnifications is the field of view is too small so it can be hard to see where you are on a board.On my Mantis Compact, X4 will just fit a QFP144 in view.
VA-16 V&A 3 in 1 multimeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: FlevasGR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2014, 03:35:15 pm
content: Hello, i would like to buy a multimeter (my first) without having to sell a kidney for an expensive brank like Fuke. After searching on my local price comparison engine i came across a multimeter from V&A which looks very promising.The model name is VA-16 and its priced at 40 euros (52$) Ofcurse i dont expect to perform like a Fluke but i want something accurate. I mostly need it for my arduino projectsIf you search about it you will find that is capable of doing some really cool things like mesuring phone and ethernet cables.unfortunately i couldnt find any english videos and obviously 50% of the amazon reviews are positive and the other 50% is negative so i hope you could help me out!I dont know what to do and what to pick in the 50euros price range.The other choices i have:What should i do?

author: larsdenmark
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2014, 05:46:15 pm
content: The VA-16 seem to be a manual ranging meter. An auto ranging meter is so much easier to use.I recommend the Uni-T 61-C. It is pretty fast and have all the features you are going to need for experimenting with an Arduino and considering the price it is built fairly well. It sells for 50€.

author: FlevasGR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 12:12:10 pm
content: Quote from: larsdenmark on October 16, 2014, 05:46:15 pmEven if its not available in Greece i could try to buy it from Amazon. Thanks for your suggestion

author: larsdenmark
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2014, 02:10:31 pm
content: You can get it athttp://www.reichelt.de/They also have the UT139C at 36€There is a discussion here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-trms-uni-t-ut139c-dmm-is-available-now/Especially this page is interesting since it has a comparison between the UT139C and the 61-series:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-trms-uni-t-ut139c-dmm-is-available-now/30/

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 20, 2014, 03:01:20 pm
content: I second the UT139C in your price range. I would trust any of those you have listed.They all look like junk.
what soldering iron with solder feeder? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gmit77
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2014, 09:54:29 am
content: hello we are looking for a decent soldering iron with solder feeder to add to our offer.not weller and not jbc.we have already the FX-8803 wich needs the FX-888 or FX-888D for working, but many users would like a single unit.what do you think?thanks

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 12:18:26 am
content: POST REMOVED BY MODERATORHas nothing to do with the topic at all, not in reponse to any post, and contains swearing and political rhetoric

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 12:37:06 am
content: Quote from: Macbeth on October 17, 2014, 12:18:26 amThen perhaps you should think twice about posting such things in a topic about soldering irons?Just say'n...

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 12:44:46 am
content: Quote from: EEVblog on October 17, 2014, 12:37:06 amYou are totally right Dave. I think I need a Breathalyzer device before being allowed to post on forums. But those issues need some awareness as they are both insane and apparently ignored by the worlds mainstream press.Nothing to do with solder thoughSorry!

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 12:58:00 am
content: Quote from: Macbeth on October 17, 2014, 12:44:46 amI've got a million issues I'd love to rant about and bring attention to, but I don't do it on this forum.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 01:48:33 am
content: Perhaps these *might* be of interest.Quick Global's Self-Feeders(multiple models if you highlight the different model numbers across the top; 375 & 376 versions include irons)XinLanTian International C8Everything else I can think of are all add-on units to existing irons (Goot FD-100, Apollo-Seiko SSB).
MLink H2 or Solder Station with Hot Air - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Roque
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 16, 2014, 01:58:51 pm
content: Hello folks,I am about to buy a Solder Station and I am considering getting one for 100€, and I saw the MLink H2. Do you have any advice on this? Which one do you think is better for this price range? I can give 50€ more at maximum!Thank you very much for any help,
transfromer information - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kjn4685
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2014, 05:01:36 am
content: I am trying to build a transformer tester I use a lot of transformers need to be able to test each pin at a time If any body have any ideas. I would appreciate any help I can get

author: anachrocomputer
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2014, 02:03:07 pm
content: What type of transformers do you want to test? Mains power transformers? Audio transformers? Pulse transformers? And roughly what voltage and current ratings do these transformers have? We need a bit more information before we can give you a good answer.

author: kjn4685
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2014, 10:53:42 pm
content: They are power transformers and audio. The voltages ranges from 12vac to 120vac. I am testing for shorts and resistance.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2014, 07:38:55 pm
content: Easiest is a regular transformer with a secondary of 12VAC and 3VAC, with a series incandescent lamp of 12V 0.1A and 3V 0.2A to limit current. this is connected to any winding and then you measure the assorted outputs to get the ratios using an AC voltmeter. The lamps are there to do current limiting in case there is a shorted winding.

author: kjn4685
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2014, 07:49:37 pm
content: Thank you very much.
Looking for a Kontakt Chemie distributor. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Mr. OBrien
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2014, 09:34:00 pm
content: Could somebody tell me where to find Kontakt 60, WB, 61, and PCC I would love to stock a can of each for the future to see how they preform and am having some difficulty finding any on Google, E-bay, and the like.http://www.kontaktspray.hu/en/?Products:Cleaners_and_contact_maintainers:Kontakt_60_oxide_dissolving_contact_cleaner