Is there any benefit using lead-free solder in hobby projects? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 09:19:27 am
content: A lot of folks here are still buying and using leaded solder, like the classic 63/37. However it have been a few years since I last touched any leaded solder and I have always been using Sn/Cu/Ag solder for my projects. My current solder is Nihon Superior SN96CI.Is there any point sticking to lead-free solder in hobby projects, or am I just blowing away my money?p.s. I bought a pair of safety goggles for wire snipping. Is it necessary?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 10:05:02 am
content: It's easier to solder with leaded solder. Besides lower melting point, it wets/flows better. Personally I stick with lead free SN100C as it's one of the easiest to use and I don't bother to switch between solders for work/hobby, on top of that I use lead-free solder paste. Sometimes I use leaded solder if need to repair some old stuff, though

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 10:20:53 am
content: Quote from: wraper on June 03, 2017, 10:05:02 amEven when repairing old stuff I was using my SN96CI lead-free. Is there any downside with that?

author: m98
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 10:42:23 am
content: The flux fumes of lead-free solder are far more toxic than those of leaded solder.

author: razberik
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 12:00:44 pm
content: Lead-free solder doesnt contain lead. Thats the main disadvantage.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 12:05:57 pm
content: Lead free solder is rubbish in my opinion. It doesn't wet or flow as easily as the real thing.

author: jonovid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 12:06:03 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on June 03, 2017, 10:05:02 amits personal preference forthe hobbyistwhat type solder you use or do not use, ...unless your pushing a particular product.electronics has many hazards, eating & licking solder is not one of them IMO.

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 12:16:58 pm
content: Quote from: razberik on June 03, 2017, 12:00:44 pmThe SN96CI I am using contains about 4% silver and 2% copper. It should have a better conductivity than 63/37?

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 12:29:46 pm
content: There are many led free solder variants, so new ones like the Sn100 might not have the bad aspects others have.But my personal experience I like lead solder better for the price (lead is much cheaper than Sn), mechanically strenghth (pure Sn is not as tough as Pb/Sn) but mainly because you can directly see if the joint is properly soldered. The shine of a properly soldered leadsolder is a perfect indication, while a lot of the leadfree solders have a terrible visible result even if it was a very good soldered joint.Another problem I had with mixing lead and non lead solderjoints on the same pcbs where solderwhiskers. Never had any problems the 25 yrs before but on some projects I mixed them they could be thrown away after 5 years.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 12:54:58 pm
content: Quote from: technix on June 03, 2017, 10:20:53 amWhen mixing lead and lead-free, resulting alloy is crap.

author: Ampera
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 01:04:20 pm
content: I like leaded solder better IMO. 60/40 mix is what I use with a Rosin core.

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 01:05:11 pm
content: I always wick the old solder off before adding new solder. Isn't that enough?

author: linker3000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 01:12:41 pm
content: Quote from: technix on June 03, 2017, 10:20:53 amMixing solder types can cause joints to be a bit more brittle so it's best avoided. Oh look - found a reference:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/mixing-lead-solder-with-lead-free-solder/

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 01:21:30 pm
content: Quote from: Kjelt on June 03, 2017, 12:29:46 pmThe Sn/Cu/Ag mix in my SN96CI solder do have a shiny finish too... I think the SN100 solder is the next generation from the same manufacturer after SN96.

author: X
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 01:27:40 pm
content: Leaded solder all the way for me too. The only exception would be where I need to deal with a euro-rubbish-RoHS* compliant boards where I need to re-work the lead-free solder joint, but even those are guess-work as there are a number of lead-free alloys. 60/40 has a lower melting point and because I'm so used to the stuff, it's easier to produce good joints even with a non-Rolls-Royce iron.This choice depends on what you are working with to be honest, I've had a lot of luck using 60/40 even on RoHS parts (not sure if this is an issue, because you are soldering either directly to tin or nickel surfaces).Wicking the solder off before changing the alloy might work but you'll never get all the fusible alloy off. Best to stick with the original stuff on the board or connection, or at least something close enough.* Not that I could understand the point, as they conveniently forget about lead acid batteries, and the lead-free flux emits toxic fumes.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 02:31:54 pm
content: Tin whiskers might be an issue when using lead-free solder, especially for stuff built to run for decades.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 02:40:57 pm
content: Quote from: technix on June 03, 2017, 01:05:11 pmYou need to clean, apply new solder, clean again. You also need to clean solder iron tip twice. Otherwise joints will be crappy. Especially obvious when you are using shiny SN100C, under microscope noticeable even for naturally dull SnAgCu solders. Cleaning pads twice on the boards which are made for lower temperatures is not a good thing and may cause lifted pads.

author: skarecrow
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2017, 10:51:48 pm
content: Quote from: technix on June 03, 2017, 09:19:27 amNot at all... until you end up with an inch of resistor lead sicking out of your eyeball. Better question is, how on Earth are you holding the goggles when you snip the wire with them? :-DBut seriously. I own.several pairs of safety goggles, but I have no clue where any of them are. I never use them, and I am aware of the risks. I wouldn't recommend not using them, but just be extra careful if you don't. I've had a few close calls.Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

author: tablatronix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 12:11:52 am
content: Safely eating sammiches while soldering..

author: Ampera
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 12:38:29 am
content: Eating food while handling molten metal with a stick that can burn a hole straight through you is a great idea.

author: Doc Daneeka
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 01:30:22 am
content: Quote from: skarecrow on June 03, 2017, 10:51:48 pmIt's a no brainer: put the f*ing saftey goggles on! Seriously though it takes only a second and is a minor inconvenience - but eyeballs don't grow back if something goes awry.

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 02:16:29 am
content: I use leaded solder, but I find when working on led-free board repairs I have to use a lot of flux, because the leaded solder does not like to solder on the PCB where led free solder was previously. It's really annoying.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 02:25:25 am
content: Quote from: skarecrow on June 03, 2017, 10:51:48 pmI tried safety goggles for wire snipping but they couldn't even cut 1/8 W resistor leads. My prescription lenses are polycarbonate for safety reasons but I hold any leads that I am cutting so they don't go flying everywhere.

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 02:48:23 am
content: I've had some Japanese flush cutters for 20 years, similar to Xuron, with the lead retainers that prevent the clipped leads from flying off...As for solder, I stick with 63/37. I use the lead-free solder usually for repairs on newer boards because I'm afraid of the outcome of mixing leaded with lead-free... just usr higher temperature and more flux.

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 03:17:29 am
content: I cut a lot of leads. I wear safety glasses when I do it, and I also use a one gallon ziploc bag. I put the boards (they are small) in the ziploc bag and I just quickly cut all the leads off. All the leads stay in the bag.

author: knotlogic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 03:24:17 am
content: What about mixing different types of lead-free solders? Eg, using a different mix for rework than what was used for manufacture. Any issues with that?

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 03:33:19 am
content: Quote from: Muxr on June 04, 2017, 03:17:29 amIs that an ESD safe ziploc bag?But seriously, that's a neat idea...

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 03:36:11 am
content: Quote from: knotlogic on June 04, 2017, 03:24:17 amI don't think that would pose a big issue, but I'm most likely incorrect. I've also read that mixing leaded with lead-free causes the solder to become brittle, as to how much, I don't know. Ultimately, I'm just a hobbyists fooling around, so the point is moot for me.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 01:04:18 pm
content: Quote from: Muxr on June 04, 2017, 03:17:29 amI am going to steal that idea, if you don't mind. I will give you full credit is anyone asks, though. By the way, I use 63/37 Kester 44 with MG Chemicals liquid flux. I do have some lead free solder and I have a dedicated tip for my Metcal for it. Almost all my soldering is with the Kester. It looks like I might be using more lead free soon. I figured out that I can rebuild a sensor board for a piece of company deployed equipment for about $4 in parts instead of $75 for a replacement part. I just have to get the boss to go along with the idea.

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 02:48:14 pm
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on June 04, 2017, 01:04:18 pmBad idea in my opinion... I wouldn't stick my neck out like that... it'll often come back to bite you in the ass...

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 03:27:33 pm
content: Quote from: technix on June 03, 2017, 09:19:27 amI used leaded solder for projects and prototypes. It is so much easier to work with.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 03:45:43 pm
content: Quote from: technix on June 03, 2017, 09:19:27 amI simply put my index finger over the end of the lead to prevent it jumping away and make it falls into a bin. It is a very clean and quick method.

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 04:08:31 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on June 04, 2017, 03:27:33 pmI don't find lead-free any less convenient to work with.

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 04:14:34 pm
content: Quote from: technix on June 04, 2017, 04:08:31 pmfor rework on plated through-hole it can be a pain in the ass at times.

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 05:59:05 pm
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on June 04, 2017, 01:04:18 pmSure thing! These forums are for sharing our knowledge and tricks.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 01:46:33 am
content: Quote from: P90 on June 04, 2017, 02:48:14 pmNot my first rodeo here. I have done hundreds of LCD power supply repairs for 2 different programs. My regional manager even volunteered me for the 2nd program fixing ELO touchscreen monitors as no one there was comfortable enough to do it. Remember the Dell OptiPlex motherboard debacle with Capxon caps? Same damn caps ended up in their 15" LCD monitors. Have also done PDA screen replacements, Epson receipt printer printhead repairs and FRU(laminator heater roller assembly refurbishment). By rough estimate, over the last almost 13 years, I've saved the company about $75-80,000 keeping the repairs in house instead of outsourcing and refurbishing assemblies instead of replacing them with new.

author: buck converter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 02:00:57 am
content: well thank goodness for lead free solder, because parents would not let me into this hobby if i had to use lead solder.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 07:50:32 am
content: Quote from: buck converter on June 05, 2017, 02:00:57 amWhy? Are you going to eat it? The fumes from lead or unleaded solder are equally bad, its mostly flux, lead does not evaporate under soldertemperatures, it barely goes into the liquid phase. You need a fumeextractor or filter if you solder a lot , good hygiene washing your hands and ventilating the room adequately, no problems. So don't tell your parents the ultra toxic ingredients of cooling paste that everyone uses for their PC processor and other heat dissipating components in this hobbie

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 08:41:33 am
content: Quote from: Kjelt on June 05, 2017, 07:50:32 amnot to mention the junk that's in the food today is worse than a little bit of lead and flux fumes...

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 09:56:53 am
content: Quote from: Kjelt on June 05, 2017, 07:50:32 amExcept there are no ultra toxic ingredients unless you got something very special from 50+ years ago.

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 10:11:30 am
content: Quote from: wraper on June 05, 2017, 09:56:53 amor anything from China... who knows what chemicals are in there... LOL

author: ZeTeX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 10:12:54 am
content: I don't think there is any real benefit using lead-free solder in hobby projects.I use Kester 63/37 active flux solder, its great.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 10:35:55 am
content: Quote from: wraper on June 05, 2017, 09:56:53 amAre you sure, I remember from my training over 25 years ago that the white cooling paste we used contained a lot of IIRC Barium compounds and there was this yellow sticker with a black skull on the jar, usually an indication it is poisonous. Perhaps the last decades phased out and replaced with something less harmfull, I don,t know. I keep on wearing throw away gloves working with the stuff.

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 10:41:04 am
content: I always find it amusing when the label on the stuff says "wash your hands before eating orsmoking"... oh the irony...

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 10:48:46 am
content: Quote from: Kjelt on June 05, 2017, 10:35:55 amFirst of all it's beryllium oxide. Secondly you won't find such to purchase.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 10:55:50 am
content: I wear glasses anyway so clipping leads is not a safety problem for me however they make diagonal cutters which have a leaf or "wire trap" adjacent to one blade on the inside cutting surface which prevents the cut lead from shooting out.Lead free solders have no advantages for hobby work. They require higher working temperatures, do not perform as well, are more difficult to use, and are more expensive. Sn60Pb40 and Sn63Pb37 are practically interchangeable. Sn62Pb36Ag2 is suitable where more mechanical strength is desired.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 11:06:40 am
content: +1 re leaded solder, you can absorb some lead from your hands (via your gut) so washing before eating just plain sensible hygiene.No lead in the vapour - its mainly flux.Use the safety goggles when working with bigger batteries and grunty power supplies - molten metal/acid travels fast.I like the leaded solder with 2% Ag, flows nicely - I have heard low whisker tendancies.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 12:19:05 pm
content: Quote from: VK5RC on June 05, 2017, 11:06:40 amIt might be that the fluxes are different but I can tell by smell when I am using Sn62Pb36Ag2 and while it seems to wet better, I also have more trouble making perfect joints with it.

author: plazma
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 12:33:50 pm
content: Quote from: David Hess on June 05, 2017, 12:19:05 pmIf you can smell the fumes then your fume extraction is not good enough

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 12:40:14 pm
content: Quote from: plazma on June 05, 2017, 12:33:50 pmor perhaps you just have a normal sense of smell...

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 01:19:49 pm
content: Quote from: plazma on June 05, 2017, 12:33:50 pmI can usually smell the difference on a completed board also. I have not used a fume extractor since I did production work.

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 01:23:21 pm
content: Quote from: David Hess on June 05, 2017, 01:19:49 pmSo far there is no smell when working with my Sn95Cu1Ag4 solder that I know of. I know the classic smell of rosin as I used to use those (but not so much now since I went lead-free.)

author: schmitt trigger
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 01:29:36 pm
content: For me 63/37 solder for all my projects. For all the reasons outlined above.For single unit products, one is not impacting the environment that much.

author: jonovid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 01:48:28 pm
content: Quote from: ZeTeX on June 05, 2017, 10:12:54 amlead solder in hobby projects

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 03:40:52 pm
content: The other thing to consider is the flux. I much prefer fully activated rosin flux like Kester 44 for rework and small projects where oxidation is more likely to be a problem. No clean rosin flux and water clean organic flux are more suitable when boards and parts are new like in a production environment.For cleaning small amounts of rosin, I usually use lacquer thinner or acetone but a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and toluene might be better; it is commonly used as rosin thinner. Isopropyl alcohol by itself is more appropriate where plastic compatibility is required but I wonder how well a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and naphtha would work.

author: usagi
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2017, 09:10:01 pm
content: lead free solder is garbage. modern PCBs from high end manufacturers with leadfree look like complete trash, this should be warning enough.

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 05:18:58 am
content: Quote from: David Hess on June 05, 2017, 03:40:52 pmtoluene always gives me a headache... that's some nasty stuff...I understand many people use leaded solder for repairs where lead-free was originally used, but I wonder if that's a good idea since using a lower temperature needed to flow the leaded solder might not completely consolidate the existing lead-free base solder.

author: R005T3r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 09:13:26 am
content: Quote from: technix on June 03, 2017, 09:19:27 amOkay, I'll try to answer to the best of my knowledge so far. First of all, I recommend you to read this article:https://www.elexp.com/Images/Weller_Coping_with_Lead_Free.pdfSo, it's safe to assume that the only difference with lead-free solder is just a matter of price, iron tip wear, comfort for the user and (stupid) regulation: Rhos make me laugh, because if we compare the amount of lead in joints to the artifacts we are producing impact on environment is just stupid, but let's not go into debates.Personally, I've been trying various types of solder (leaded and lead-free too) and Stannol TSC lead-free series is probably the best in the market today because they resembles 63/37 composition, but they costs a heck of a price: 70 Eur for 500g spools, vat and shipping excluded(however, they will never be like having an original 63/37 leaded solder). Stannol TC series is cheaper, but they use 99Sn1Cu formulation wihich in my opinion is horrible.If you learn how to solder with lead-free you will have no problem whatsoever with leaded ones, because it's more difficult. For wire-snipping you don't need safety googles. For soldering get a good fume extractor.Also, speaking about rosin fluxes, lead free fluxes are very aggressive compared to leaded and should always be washed even if there's written "no clean".

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 11:29:54 am
content: Quote from: R005T3r on June 07, 2017, 09:13:26 amI have not used leaded solder after my first small tube of leaded solder ran out. After that I decided to buy exclusively lead free solder for all my learning and my projects. So I have learned the art of soldering almost completely using lead free solder.I have some lead free gel style flux that does not stink but require heavy washing.

author: R005T3r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 11:56:49 am
content: Good. If you are happy with lead-free solder use it, but remember that in case you decide to switch back to leaded, don't make the mistake to use the same iron tip for leaded and lead free or you will make a mess with the first joints!Even if the flux don't stink, it doesn't mean it's safe without proper ventilation... But yep, you can't skip the cleaning process with lead free. Gel flux is designed to be used with a dispenser so you can dose the exact amount of flux in a very repeatable way (syringe solder paste too!). You should consider a flux pen instead, but anyway, do as you see more fit to you! Soldering is an art after all... Also, in the case you don't like buying flux, you can make your own flux, it's not very hard!

author: kalel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 12:07:38 pm
content: Quote from: R005T3rI use the leaded stuff, but how do you make your own flux?

author: jwm_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 03:22:40 pm
content: Quote from: kalel on June 07, 2017, 12:07:38 pmPine tree sap (rosin) dissolved in isopropyl alcohol.

author: R005T3r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 03:24:02 pm
content: Very easly.Flux base is rosin, which is a sold resin. If you heat up the rosin and then you add up some solvents the result is a liquid rosin flux. Depending on the concentration of the solvents and the result you want (gel? Solid? Rosin-activated? Rosin-midly-activated? Rosin activated that permits you to solder on rust?) you make your own flux. Don't believe it? Here's explained:

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 03:33:44 pm
content: But is it just rosin from any needle tree or is it from a specific tree and also purified?Taking rosin from any tree somehow does not sound like a good idea

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 04:02:27 pm
content: what next, make your own solder from tin cans and copper? LOL

author: Fgrir
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 04:11:18 pm
content: Someone has to be prepared to repair our cellphones after the apocalypse

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 04:22:25 pm
content: Quote from: R005T3r on June 07, 2017, 03:24:02 pmYes you can make it, and I made it in the past. But resulting flux is not that good at all.How solvents are supposed to magically activate it? It's just dissolved non activated rosin.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 05:10:27 pm
content: Quote from: P90 on June 07, 2017, 05:18:58 amToluene is also getting more difficult to find. It does not seem nearly as objectionable when mixed with isopropyl alcohol.QuoteI have never seen this become a problem since the leaded solder lowers the melting point of the lead free solder at the interface between them and this is actually how I prefer to remove lead free solder; I add some leaded solder first and the resulting mixture has a lower melting point making it easier to remove. Doing this lets me use my 700F tips instead of my 800F tips.

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 05:21:05 pm
content: Quote from: David Hess on June 07, 2017, 05:10:27 pmI do the same, but I still wonder if the resulting solder joint where the new leaded solder is added to the existing lead-free is comprised in some way...I'm sure I'm over thinking it...

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 08:06:59 pm
content: Quote from: P90 on June 07, 2017, 05:21:05 pmThat can happen in some cases but when I am doing rework, the lead free solder is getting removed from the board anyway. Adding some leaded solder just makes it easier to remove the lead free solder with less damage to the board.

author: daveyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 09:55:36 pm
content: Quote from: P90 on June 04, 2017, 03:36:11 amAt work, we repair our lead free boards with leaded solder and have no problems. That seems to piss the Germans off, which makes doing so even more rewarding.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

author: skarecrow
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 10:02:44 pm
content: Quote from: daveyk on June 07, 2017, 09:55:36 pmI'm 25% German, so it doesn't bother me that much. :-PSent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

author: kalel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 12:21:16 am
content: Quote from: daveyk on June 07, 2017, 09:55:36 pmFrom what I understand, you can still buy lead-full stuff in Germany. I currently use Stannol 60/40 myself (I use mostly cheap stuff so I have to admit this solder is of great quality - flows easily with enough flux inside), which comes from Germany.The point being - someone there must be using it in Germany too and be German at the same time.I'm also interested in this thread as I haven't heard many good things about using lead-free solder for hobby work, so it would be nice to hear if there are some advantages after all, even if small.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 10:13:28 am
content: Quote from: daveyk on June 07, 2017, 09:55:36 pmGermany is part of the EU, but no the EU itselfAnd of course you can buy leaded solder in Germany and use it for repairs, hobbyist usage and several other exemptions. Please update your prejudices

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 10:19:00 am
content: Quote from: madires on June 08, 2017, 10:13:28 amLOL

author: daveyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 11:17:52 am
content: "p.s. I bought a pair of safety goggles for wire snipping. Is it necessary?"I prefer a good pair of Lindstrom side cutters myself (8140 .2-1.25mm). I find they work better.Dave

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 12:12:48 pm
content: Quote from: daveyk on June 08, 2017, 11:17:52 amha ha :-)

author: daveyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 12:58:05 pm
content: Quote from: P90 on June 08, 2017, 10:19:00 am