Front Panel Design - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mrcrud5
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2018, 03:22:12 pm
content: I am designing a front panel for a project I'm working on in AutoCAD. I have the 2d design in a DXF file. However I'd like to get the panel painted white, then silk screened. What's the best format of the lettering for the silk screen to be in? Does anyone know where I can get a panel machined, painted, and silk screened? I will be making around 10 of them.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2018, 05:48:29 pm
content: What's your base material? Aluminium, ABS or...

author: 0xdeadbeef
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2018, 05:56:37 pm
content: A cheaper way might be to usetwo color acrylic.I used it in aprojectsome years ago and was quite happy with the result.I think thatPonokooffers the same service in the US.

author: mrcrud5
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2018, 06:57:26 pm
content: I would like to make it out of Aluminum around .12'' thick.

author: duak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2018, 07:33:53 pm
content: You might want to see if a PCB fab shop can do them for you. I haven't had PCBs made for years but if memory serves, the data format is Gerber. However, most shops can accept different formats.Cheers,

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2018, 07:51:50 pm
content: Quote from: mrcrud5 on July 30, 2018, 03:22:12 pmIt is difficult to do for small quantities. I'd try searching for sign making shops locally. Not sure what size us your panel. Alternatively, as was discussed in some other thread, can consider ordering from a Chinese PCB fab a aluminum based PCB (if you want aluminum front panel) white solder mask and black silk. They typically take Gerber format files, perhaps you will need to research if they take DXF.

author: voltsandjolts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 30, 2018, 08:58:06 pm
content: Instead of silkscreen you could print onto Avery Heavy Duty Laser Labels. Results are excellent and they are very tough labels. I have used them for several low volume front panels.https://www.avery.co.uk/water-resistant/water-resistant-labels

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2018, 09:06:36 pm
content: For 10 pcs. in aluminium, I'd have it engraved. Talk to someone who makes door signs and company logo signs.

author: BrianHG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2018, 09:23:12 pm
content: For my PCB cad software I create all my library components footprints which require panel cutouts reserving 1 mechanical layer, the same one for all, having the rectangular and line cutouts exact to measure for the components, whether it be square buttons, circular LEDs, rectangular LCD cutouts. I may also add screw holes to that layer as well. This makes generating the .dxf cad layer easy and accurate. Then after making standard PCB, I export a .dxf drawing of the mechanical cutout layer and send it to the metal shop or acrylic cutter. It is your choice whether to do you text and logo in the PCB cad software on an additional dedicated mechanical layer for .dxf export, or, import your .dxf cutout layer into a DTP or drawing software, and draw the silkscreen labeling around the cutouts and export that as a drawing file or .pdf file depending on who is creating your silkscreen. (Don't forget to disable/turn off the cutout layer, otherwise paint may be applied at the cutout borders...)

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2018, 11:39:29 pm
content: https://www.frontpanelexpress.com/products/front_panels/

author: 0xdeadbeef
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2018, 05:47:01 pm
content: Beta Layout offers the service and a free design tool:https://us.beta-layout.com/frontpanel/In Germany, there is a similar offering by Schaeffer:https://www.schaeffer-ag.de/en/downloads/front_panel_designer/Anyway, I'd suggest to use a free CAD tool likeQCadto design the front panels.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2018, 07:33:34 pm
content: Front Panel Expressvery sexyProtocaselocated in USA NY and Nova Scotia; I found the setup fees high

author: metrologist
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2018, 07:48:32 pm
content: Just to note, I create front panel artwork in Adobe Illustrator using cad dxf outlines as a basis. Screen shops are usually able to use the native ai file or eps format. We usually specify spot colors and pantone.

author: branadic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2018, 08:32:27 pm
content: Hi,Schaeffler also delivers a design tool (including price calculator) that is pretty easy to use and allows DXF export. Thus for simple designs you can make the panels by yourself or ask the next best laser/milling service and use their service only for high quality panels with paint and so on.-branadic-

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2018, 11:17:04 pm
content: I don't know if this will work for you, but one of my favorite tricks for one-off front panels is to laser print on paper then laminate it and glue it to the panel. You can even cut out a window in the paper and when you run it through the laminator you will get a clear window that can be used for displays. I use Inkscape to draw the panels but anything that produces a suitable image will work.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2018, 03:33:50 pm
content: That's the way I do it but I've never managed the clear window trick - I always get marks or bubbles, certainly not good enough for LCDs. The most I've managed it single led windows. Any tips?

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2018, 03:49:15 pm
content: I've never had any trouble getting nice clear windows like that, perhaps it's just dumb luck in choosing the ideal laminator sleeves or the laminator itself? You could try a different brand or play with the temperature settings on the laminator. The tricky part for me is keeping crud from getting in there. Opening the sleeve to insert the paper creates a static charge that attracts cat hairs and lint and anything else nearby. I find it helps to wipe down the table with a moist towel right before I put it together. A can of air duster to blow anything off the paper can help too.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2018, 07:20:58 pm
content: Thanks, yes I know that you mean about static charge. I probably need to experiment with thinner paper too - I tend to get an 'unstuck' border round the edge of the cutout. I have the laminator turned right up but it's pretty old now.At least I know that itispossible now!P.S. I use matt pouches for most stuff, it gives a nice finish.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2018, 07:28:14 pm
content: I use ordinary laser printer paper, it's quite thin. I just looked and the pouches I've been using are Swingline "GBC" 5 mil thickness thermal laminating pouches. Item # 3200716.

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2018, 05:14:10 pm
content: Seconded for Front Panel Express, offices in Europe and the USA.