hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Help in identifying chip [AWB 1LA 11] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: oliv3r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2023, 08:01:31 am
content: Hey All,I have a nice XGS1210-12 switchhttps://svanheule.net/switches/zyxel_xgs1210_series, and pretty much understand most bits.What puzzles me however, is one chip. The CPU seems to have control wires going into it, but I have no idea what it does or how it works. The chip in question has on its topside 'AWB 1LA 11', but google hasn't been very helpful.Looking the surrounding area, we see no inductors, so it's not a DC-DC regulator?The unused pad is also curious, as it clearly works in tandem, but not needed. I haven't seen a device that does populate the missing chip, but it goes to the CPU's SPI pins (or 3 gpio ...). My guess is a micro controller ...A few more pics can be found at the earlier linked site..Anybody know what it is so I can look into the datasheet?There are no possible fan headers (the XGS1250, while similar, is slightly different and does have a fan controller, but not this chip and it's companion that I can see).Thanks,

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2023, 10:37:26 am
content: I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s a small EEPROM, with the neighboring footprint being not for a companion chip, but rather to allow alternate chip models to be used instead.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2023, 03:56:36 am
content: What are the dimensions of the package? That's not a very common footprint. My guess is an LDO of some sort, but I haven't been able to find a match either. (Archive of famous Russian site goes from AWA to AWC...)

author: oliv3r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2023, 08:40:57 am
content: I doubt it's an eepromthere's an SPI-NOR eeprom already holding the bootloader, the OS, and 'data' (mac addresses etc) so why a separate EEPROM? also it connects with 1 or 2 gpio's only ...LDO I was first thinking of too, but all other power blocks have beefy trace area's and inductors, this chip only has resistors and capacitors.The footprint is odd, however I just closed up the thing, and taking a part is a big of a pain.But If i do some copy/paste magic, I can put it next to a 'known' footprint, the SOIC-8 EERPOM
Help in interpreting safety standard for AC/DC converter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: eecook
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2020, 07:23:49 pm
content: Hi All,I am investigating how IEC 61010-1 (safety) applies to a power supply I have designed.Power supply description:Designed for Overvoltage Category II- Input: 100-240VAC - 50/60Hz - 700mA- Output: 160VDC - 300mA12V - 1A- Topology: Flyback (quasi-resonant)Note 1: Feedback is done through an optocouplerNote 2: There is a Y-cap bridging the insulation between primary and secondary grounds (for EMI)Background:The 160VDC output is "turned on" at the output terminals through a relay that separates this 2 secondary circuits. I am trying to understand the creepage/clearance requirements between those 2 secondary circuits.Problem:I don't know which one of the following items applies to this case (see image). Item b) seems compelling but primary and secondary aren't separated only by a transformer, there's an opto-coupler andthe Y-rated cap.Can anybody please help me out with this one?Copyright notice: I do not own the rights to the shared image but "fair use" arguments apply.

author: bjbb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2020, 09:24:51 pm
content: Requirements for insulation and spacing is based on several things, and can be determined only after the designer has measured the working voltages under the least favorable operating conditions per the Type Test conditions (see clause 4) in the scoped standard; and per the class and category defined by the intended end use. In any case, you must meet the minimum requirements for BI as 'functional' cannot be considered.A Y1 cap, where any touch leakage limits are met, can be considered the same as the galvanic isolation provided by a transformer. This assumes the capacitor ratings meets the requirements for the conditions of the particular insulation that is being bridged.Flybacks typically have messy and 'spikey' waveforms, so annex K should be referenced after all of the working voltages (see annex I) have been tabulated, and figure 1.2 of IEC61010-2-30 should be referenced.If your employer has a designated compliance engineer, then she needs to be consulted immediately.

author: eecook
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2020, 03:07:53 pm
content: Quote from: bjbb on March 26, 2020, 09:24:51 pmThank you for the response. I was indeed planning to use annex K for the converter, but this is different as it involves 2 secondary circuits that have basically DC.I had the suspicion that the Y-cap and the opto-coupler would be part of the same insulation system and hence insulation requirements between 2 secondary circuits would be covered by 6.7.1.5 b).I am a 'solo gig team' pretty much. Not ideal, but grateful for the experience.
Help in Locating Male Header Mfg - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rfdes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2021, 06:46:27 pm
content: I need to find a suitable replacement for the 2 pin header shown in the photo. The male contacts are round and 0.040" (1mm) in diameter. If anyone recognizes this header and has the name of the mfg, I would appreciate it. I've searched the Mouser/Digikey pages with no luck.thanks for any help.Jim
Help indentify this connector pair please - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2018, 03:35:08 pm
content: Any idea what these connectors are?

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2018, 04:13:12 pm
content: What's the pitch?JST-SM perhaps?

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2018, 04:38:23 pm
content: Quote from: sokoloff on May 22, 2018, 04:13:12 pmAppears to be 0.1"

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2018, 05:07:48 pm
content: Sure looks like:http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=238

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2018, 05:18:16 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on May 22, 2018, 05:07:48 pmNo not that.However, I've just noticed some tiny lettering CNDZ which does appear to be a JST connector.

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2018, 05:33:39 pm
content: Thanks for the replies, everyone. I've found out what they are, here's a link to a Chinese seller:https://tinyurl.com/y6wzg37hVery cheap from China but it would be nice to find a UK source if anyone knows of one?

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2018, 05:56:43 pm
content: Farnell:http://uk.farnell.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals/smr-03v-n/housing-receptacle-3-way-nylon/dp/3357739?st=jst

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2018, 06:07:28 pm
content: Quote from: deephaven on May 22, 2018, 05:18:16 pmWhat leads you to think that it's not JST SM?

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2018, 09:19:29 pm
content: Quote from: sokoloff on May 22, 2018, 06:07:28 pmOops sorry it is. Apologies, especially to Monkeh, the number of ways confused me.Thanks for all your help guys.
Help indentifying mystery part (inductor? electromagnet?) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: K3mHtH
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2019, 10:27:21 pm
content: Can someone help me identify this mystery part.It appears to be about 1CM in diameter and the pictures are too grainy to get the proper part # off of it. The best I got is:CT-7216-SMTX-28-SCET 1150LSBut I think all that's wrong since google isn't coming up with anything. In this case, there is a metal core and it is acting like an electro-magnet. So I don't know if the part is an actual electro-magnet or if it is just an air-core inductor that has had a core added.. anyways, that's a lot of "i don't know"'s!

author: Hiemal
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2019, 01:29:57 am
content: What's it from?It sounds more like it'd be an inductor than an electromagnet but obviously whatever it was pulled from would help a lot.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2019, 10:08:09 am
content: You really expect people to waste their time trying to second guess you, when you give no context of where it is in a circuit (PCB picture) etc., what piece of equipment it is used in / come out of?It's either a cored inductor or something else, depending entirely on context.
Help interpreting a voltage regulator data sheet. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: DTJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2017, 05:38:04 am
content: Does this voltage regulator require a diode across it to discharge any capacitance on its output when the power supply is removed?TS9011SCX RFG3.3V out reg, 250mA, Max 12V in.http://docs-asia.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/1386/0900766b813863e7.pdfThe data sheet says:QuoteIt does not show a diode across the pass element in the block diagram in the data sheet.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2017, 06:13:17 am
content: It shows a MOSFET as the series pass device, so its body diode will already provide some protection, shunting reverse current. Its probably dissipation limited, and as the pass transistor SOA graph is unknown, it would be advisable to be conservative and if there is a significant chance of the input being hard shorted to ground or dropping at a rate that would pull more than 400mA (assuming the body diode can handle the regulator short circuit current) back out of the output capacitor for more than a few us, add a Schottky diode, either antiparallel or in series with the input.

author: DTJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2017, 07:05:07 am
content: Quote from: Ian.M on February 03, 2017, 06:13:17 amOk, thanks Ian. I have a series diode on the input so I guess I can rely on that.
Help laying out HDMI signals - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: basher4
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 28, 2025, 08:35:58 am
content: Hi, I'm designing a 2 port HDMI input board for a cheap Kintex 7 FPGA board from Aliexpress. I'm targeting 1080p60 capture (148.75MHz TMDS clock) but if all I can get in this iteration is 1080p30 that's fine.It's my first PCB (yay me) and things seem going fineXilinx UG471 says that TMDS is supposed to have external pull up resistors to 3V3 close to the RX side. I'm not sure how to lay them out.So far I have them all in line close to the edge connector. Which means that I have stubs going from the edge connector to the resistor. Will that be an issue? I tried looking up existing boards that work but no luck.Another worry is assembly. I picked 0402 resistors because they're small but I'm worried that I won't be able to assemble it by hand. I have a small hot plate but touching those up does not sound like fun. Alternative I though of would be to stagger 0604 resistors, which I can solder pretty easily. Tradeoff is that I'll have longer stubs.Any suggestions how I could lay out the terminating resistors?I'm also not a fan of having to route one TMDS signal on an internal layer, which pushes me to a 6 layer board with 2 layers with nothing but copper. However, because I chose to have all HDMI signals going to one side of the edge connector (mainly because of the termination resistors) it feels like the only option.I attached PDFs of the schematic and the board. Any suggestions are more than welcome, even if it's about the way I drew the schematic or laid out something else.(I'm not sure how to best share an easyeda design, if there is a better way I'm happy to do that and update the post.)Thanks for reading the whole thing!
Help Lithium ion battery protection IC not able to drive MOSFET - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: oppel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 13, 2023, 06:58:01 am
content: I wanted to make a laser distance meter project that works with a Li-ion battery.In order to keep the voltage of the Li-ion battery at a certain level, I used an integrated circuit (AP9101CK6-AYTRG1) that protects the Li-ion battery in my circuit. Unfortunately, the circuit I created with this integrated circuit does not work.The circuit in the integrated datasheet is the image Figure 1, but when doing research on the integratedWhen I researched drawn circuits, the circuit I created is as shown in the image Figure 2.I confirmed with both a multimeter and an oscilloscope that there was no voltage coming to the MOSFETs. Why do you think the Mosfets do not turn on? Where might I have made a mistake in the connection or how can I make this integrated work? Can anyone who has used this integrated device or has experience help me?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2023, 07:17:17 am
content: Have you tried to charge the lithium cell, the protection IC will power on, when battery is connected, in the off state, as a shipping mode, and will only enable itself when it sees an attempt is made to charge the cell, and will then turn on both mosfets.

author: Dan123456
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2023, 09:40:19 am
content: I’ve had a similar issue with eBay 2S protection modules.Connected the batteries and… nothing!Thought they might have been duds / a scam but found out I just had to feed them charging voltage for like a second before disconnecting and then they operated perfectlyHopefully it is just thatEdit: p.s. welcome to the forum

author: jdev99
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2024, 12:59:35 pm
content: You need to "start" the circuit 1st, as per the datasheet."For power-down mode, when first connecting AP9101C system board to the battery, it is necessary to use charger or to short P- to the battery negativepolarity. Once the AP9101C is activated, the charger or connection can be removed, otherwise the battery cannot discharge current through the systemboard. The values selected should follow the recommended typical range mentioned above."

author: jdev99
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2024, 01:02:14 pm
content: Quote from: Dan123456 on December 13, 2023, 09:40:19 amFor the HY2120 IC's they say in the datasheet: "Discharging may not be enacted when the battery is first time connected. To regainnormal status, CS and VSS PIN must be shorted or the charger must be connected"https://www.hycontek.com/wp-content/uploads/DS-HY2120_EN.pdfI just fitted a small pushbutton to my board to "start" it.
Help locating replacement sensor? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: iXod
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2017, 11:51:02 pm
content: 5-terminal gap detector:http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets2/90/90928_1.pdfDevice is labeled:QTC 9524H21L2Need to find a replacement, but all the ones at Mouser Digikey et. al. are SMD.Any help locating direct replacement (domestically--US, preferred) appreciated.Thanks.

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2017, 10:59:18 am
content: It looks like there are many possible devices onDigikey.You need to make sure the supply and switch voltages/currents are suitable for your operation, and make sure you get the correct logic operation (i.e. output low with the beam interrupted).

author: iXod
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2017, 07:36:59 pm
content: Do not see 5-pin thru-hole config with right spacing at all. Voltages, logic are second; if it won't fit...iX
Help - Looking for a certain electronics board.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: shanezampire
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2025, 04:12:54 am
content: I got a Defender (2234788C93) Electric Stop Arm sign or very similar. It is a stop arm sign from the side of bus. It has 3 wires. A white which is 12 volt negative. A red and blue. When you connect the red and blue to 12 volt positive, the arm comes out and the red lights blink. When you connect just the red wire to positive, the sign retracts and cuts off. I am looking for a wireless key fob controlled board to control it with. The sign works fine on a 10 amp 12 volt power source.I was thinking I needed a board with two 10amp relays. One relay I can hook just the red wire to, and the second relay I can jumper the red wire to and blue wire. Press button A on the key fob and only relay one turns on and gives power to the red wire. Press B on the key fob and relay one turns off and relay two give power to the red and blue wire. I purchased a DieseRC model 2402 board off Amazon but it does not work the way I intended.Does anyone know of the board I am looking for? I prefer to buy it off Amazon or eBay if possible. Thanks in advance for your time.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2025, 10:22:15 am
content: This DieseRC product seems to fit your bill:https://www.amazon.com/DieseRC-Wireless-Transmitter-Potential-Free-Controller/dp/B0B19NC5RF/It has only one relay and the fob has ON and OFF buttons.QuoteSeems like connecting +12 to COM, red to +12 and blue to NO would work for you.

author: lucky43113
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 07, 2025, 03:41:50 pm
content: This is actually my issue a friend just posted it for me. The issue with the board you suggested is as follows. If only the red wire is connected the sign retracts but in order to get it to open and work the lights the red and blue wires must be connected together, simply turning off the device will not make it retract.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2025, 08:03:03 pm
content: Quote from: lucky43113 on July 07, 2025, 03:41:50 pmCan you clarify how the thing works... here is my understanding:- WHITE is always connected to the 12V return.- If RED and BLUE are connected to +12V the arm swings out and the lights flash.- If only RED is connected to +12V (BLUE left unconnected) the arm retracts.Supposedly there are limit switches which cut off power once the arm fully extends or fully retracts.Is that correct? Is there any harm in always connecting RED to +12V?

author: lucky43113
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 07, 2025, 08:10:15 pm
content: I returned the board after i found out i had to jump the ground and hot wire to each of the sign wires. but you are correct. However if I only have the red connected to power it will keep trying to run the motor even when full retracted. So I bought an on of on toggle switch ill see how that does.

author: lucky43113
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 10, 2025, 01:50:16 am
content: I got it donehttps://youtube.com/shorts/tpLg-zVdf-k?si=vsaViPvbTAb3kwtz
Help , looking for a suitable sub Gig data transceiver chip  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: MadScientist
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 08:52:45 pm
content: I was looking at the mrf49xa from microchip , but this is eol, I need a simple 433 MHz transceiver capsule of about 10kbs over a few metres,, there’s seems to be a huge chineese Ic range but most is impenetrable , I’m just sending a few bytes each wayI can handle packages upto tssop soic , no QFN etc or non exposed leadsany one have suggestionsThanks guys

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 09:25:51 pm
content: Have you looked at Lorawan ICs and Lora in general?exhttps://www.digikey.com/short/q7dz3w8ror a ready made modulehttps://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/seeed-technology-co-ltd/317990687/13572083

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 09:40:31 pm
content: You can look at the CC1101, or CC110L, or similar. Pretty cheap. But your constraint here is the package. You'll find very few that are not QFN or BGA.If you have issues assembling those packages, but don't have to make a large volume of boards, have you considered using a breakout board with one of those ICs?

author: MadScientist
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 09:44:49 am
content: Thanks , I’ll think I’ll just handle the QFN anyway now so my choice is much wider

author: MadScientist
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 03:47:09 pm
content: I’ve decided on the cmostek CMT2300A as it’s in jlcpcb std parts
Help me choose a sub-Ghz RF Receiver/Transceiver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: lovemb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2016, 12:38:59 am
content: Hello, basically I have to make a project where I have toreceiveand decode some RF messages.Information about the RF transmission I will receive:-Frequency: 315,00 MHzand433,92 MHz (So I need either 2 receivers or 1 that let's me switch between these 2 frequencies "on the fly".)-Modulation: FSK (FSK2, noncoherent)-Peak deviation: +/-16kHz (nominal)(Just some info about the messages, not really important at this stage):-Data rate: 1kBit/s-Coding: ManchesterThe goal is not to receive from the 2 frequencies at same time. I want to select by software which frequency I will receive from.Preferably, I would like a receiver/transceiver that I can get in a cheap module to start prototyping as soon as possible.I've done some search and TH71221(27 to 930MHz FSK/FM/ASK Transceiver) seems to fit my needs but I can't find a "ready to go" module with it.Open to hear any suggestions!

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 06, 2016, 12:44:23 am
content: HiBoth those frequencies are pretty typical "garage door opener" sort of things. There are an enormous number of chips out there to do this as a result. I'd haunt eBay for a while and see what people have put into modules. The gotcha will be the licensing on the transmit side of the process. I do not believe that these are unlicensed bands in that respect.Bob

author: lovemb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2016, 02:40:42 am
content: All the cheap garage door remote fob I've seen use ASK modulation. Car remotes use FSK but they are just transmitters, so no use for me.

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 06, 2016, 06:04:21 pm
content: HiIs this for something big enough that you can afford to run it through the license process? If not, you need not just a module, but one that is licensed for use in that band. As you point out "stuff" does run there with this sort of modulation. It is legal if the proper work is done.Bob

author: lovemb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2016, 03:29:36 am
content: Quote from: uncle_bob on February 06, 2016, 06:04:21 pmYeh, I'm not worried about licenses or legal stuff. Just looking for the right part(s) that fit my needs.I think I will give 5$ CC1101 module a try and see what I can do with it.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2016, 03:51:35 am
content: The chips from TI are nice but do read the errata sheet!!
Help me cross-ref this relay? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: iXod
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2023, 03:33:15 pm
content: This Panasonic automotive relay is NLA:https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Panasonic%20Electric%20Works%20PDFs/CQ_Relays_ACQ.pdfI can’t find a replacement with equivalent rating (25A inrush—preferably higher; these relays failed at a spectacularly high rate). I mean, I can’t find a replacement that isn’t a Chinese “ignition source”.The markings on the relay are “CQ1W-12V-H24”. “W” is apparently for a wiper motor load. Can’t find a reference to “H24” in any Panasonic literature.There is vertical room for a taller replacement.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Cheers!
Help me decipher 'Chinglish' LED DC meter product description - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: nzo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2011, 08:33:04 am
content: I have a silly question involving the 'Chinglish' product description for a couple of Mini Red LED DC 0-99.9V Digital Panel Voltmeters I purchased off of Ebay.This is thelink to the product.The seller writes:1 - "Supply Power: 5V or 6-15V Optional"and a bit further down:2 - "We can Power the meter by the same source being measured (Common Ground)."After reading this I assumed that I could just connect this meter to the source being measured (0-99.9v) and the meter would display the result. I also assumed that this meter, unlike many of the others available, did not need a separate DC supply for the whole thing to work, since it said "5V or 6-15V Optional".Note: For some reason my Firefox does not show the wiring diagrams.Am I correct in thinking that this meter does need a separate DC supply? If it does, what's the point of having a common ground? Many thanks!For some reason the forum software is munging my post formatting

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 31, 2011, 08:56:05 am
content: Part 1:I understand that your panel has to be powered with 5V, or 6-15V if you have chosen the second option for the device.Part 2:You don't need a floating (from the device under test) power supply for the panel, you can use one that uses the same ground that your DUT. You can't power it with 80V for example.

author: nzo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2011, 01:53:03 am
content: EdoNork...OK, got it. Thank you!
Help me decipher analog OP-AMP circuit from the mid '90  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Houseman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2023, 12:46:21 am
content: Hi. It's me again. In previous post I was asking to decode some diode, now it comes with the full circuit I have discovered so far and I need your help.It comes from a PHASE CUT controller for small solenoid valves that got magic smoke and rather than change the whole assembly that costs 2000 USD I want to find out the fault and repair it by myself.. the valve is powered via a 24VAC 50Hz transformer and controlled via a 0-10V DC circuit that needs to be is isolated from the mains. As You can see in the schematic the control voltage is fed to a first opamp. A differential amplifier. It should output a reference voltage that is related to the difference in the input but I cannot understand why so many biasing resistors. D9 is a zener Diode. Vcc is so at 8V.The output is then fed (through a RC filter?) to U2 and here comes the troubles..Any help to find out the top right part of the circuits? The 24AC voltage is full bridge rectified by D11 and D12 and C5. Ok so far.What are those antiparallel diode? why a small capacitor C1? Even a simulation in LT spice does not help me..Any help?Best regards and thanks

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2023, 07:11:27 am
content: Classical? it's no Mona Lisa, but it does look confusing. Are you sure the diagram is correct? D5/D6 would make sense if they went from gate to source i.e. back to back zeners protecting the gate but as shown, no idea.

author: Houseman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2023, 08:37:08 am
content: With term classical it was meant not digital part like nowadays. No mention to arts
Help me find a 10Gbps SFP Connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ali_asadzadeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2020, 10:15:37 am
content: Hi,I'm working on a Kintex 7 FPGA PCB project for now, And I want to find a Chinese SPF connector and manufacturer, preferably a two channel or two single channel SFP connectors, I want to know if you have worked with a brand and know the quality, price and availability for them.Thanks
Help me find the datasheet for... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 08:28:10 am
content: ...theKM48C512BLJ-7.Its probably a DRAM - 8 of them are on a small board with a connector. Early 90's?I have searched the interweb but can't find it. I did find sellers but they offered no datasheet.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 08:32:09 am
content: http://www.datasheet39.com/PDF/551868/KM48C512B-pdf.html

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 10:39:06 am
content: Thanx! Problem is that in the couple of tries I've done, I always get a connection timeout error (522)...Can you access the file?

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 11:17:26 am
content: dag

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 11:52:19 am
content: Thanx!

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2016, 11:17:23 am
content: I am trying to find the datasheet for a NEC partD482235LE-70. Its a dram probably 256k (70ns? video use?) (1993).I have tried the datasheet39 site and they have a listing for it, only there is no pdf with that...Anyone any luck.Much appreciated.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2016, 11:25:58 am
content: try this:http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/119345/NEC/UPD482235LE-XXX.html

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2016, 12:09:26 pm
content: Yep, that's it. Thanx!(whoohoo a dual ported dram!)

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2016, 04:52:34 am
content: Here's an optical detector for which I can't find data. Only a few mentions in papers.EG&G Photodiode UV-444B
Help me find these connectors. SIM231 TFT screen  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2024, 03:24:08 am
content: I have become lost and confused trying to search these connectors on the back of a SIM231 TFT screen. They are a superseded device and I am even having trouble finding documentation on the manufacturers website. I do find old support documents and software even but the connectors are not in anything I've found so far and I clearly don't know how to sort the wheat from the chaff from the thousands of possibilities on big distributor websites.By my count they have 16 and 60 pins. The 60pin one looks to be 15mm from end to end of the pins and the 16pin one looks about 11mm.ThanksEdit:Further searching and I found the Technical reference manual. The connectors are:https://www.amphenol-cs.com/product/10106813061112lf.htmlFCI 10106813-061112LFhttps://www.jst.com/products/crimp-style-connectors-wire-to-board-type/zpd-connector/JST Part NumberDescriptionBM16B-ZPDSS-TF(LF)(SN)Shrouded Header, SMT, 16 position (2x8), VerticalZPDR-16V-SWire HousingSZPD-002T-P0.3Crimp pin for AWG#24 to 28 stranded wire
Help me find what I need!  Wireless 12V remote control device - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: viper
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2023, 05:15:57 pm
content: I will explain the project. I have a steel cable across my driveway to keep people out. It is not really a "high security" measure, but just to provide an aid that I don't want visitors. Right now I have to get out of a vehicle to put the cable down every time. It's not ideal.What I was thinking about was using a 12V windshield wiper gear motor because I can get them free, attach a pulley, and remotely operate the motor to raise/lower the cable.I was going to ignore things like full auto operation, limit switches, etc. Just something basic.In many cases, I am about 500ft from the cable, someone is at my drive, and I need to let them in. I was going to get one of those wireless 12V winch relay devices but I am certain they won't have much range. They state about 100ft and that is China, so figure 30ft.Curious if you guys might have spotted a better solution? I would think I would need a real antenna if I am to reach 500ft? Or is that not even practical? Even with the short range devices, it would at least allow me to lower the cable while in my vehicle which is helpful but rather hit my goal. Not looking for an expensive solution.I figure if I can find a wireless remote and receiver that operates a small relay, I can use that to toggle a bigger relay to drive my loads. 12VDC is ideal as this will be battery operated.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2023, 05:26:30 pm
content: Wireless garage door remotes, with a receiver with external antenna are what you want. There are plenty, though I would recommend a code hopping system, and also put in some limit switches, at least to allow the motor not to be burnt out in case of an error that keeps the relay outputs on. 4 button Keeloq transmitter, and matching receiver with 4 outputs will work, leaving you with 2 spare outputs to use for things like turning on a light there, 12V LED working well with a battery and solar panel to charge it, and possibly turn on a wireless camera that provides video back to you, using a separate on delay module to power the camera and transmitter, as the remote receiver typically can only have one output at a time with momentary action.

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2023, 09:40:11 am
content: They sell "long range remote control" on Amazon and elsewhere and I would try that first. Even if it doesn't cover 100% of your needs if it covers, say, 95% it would be the simplest and cheapest thing to do.A steel cable hanging like that is a lawsuit waiting to happen unless you make sure it is very clearly visible. IMHO A chain painted brightly and possibly with pennants is less likely to cause problems.Regarding the mechanical actuation the best way to avoid end of range problems is to have a circular motion so that if the motion does not stop it just starts reversing, just like windshield wipers do. That way you do not need to worry about burning motors.
Help me for circut driver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: lidas
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 08, 2017, 12:07:18 pm
content: Hello Friend,I'm a hobbystai want an eletronic capable of designing a circuit, i need a led driver with ub LT3743 with these featurespower supply 6 / 16voltoutput 3 / 6v 2 / 4Ah. Better than variable to be able to use different types of LEDstwo buttonspress the button one led turned on 50%press the button two LEDs turned on at 100%I just have a card scheme I arrange to do the pcbare you capable? how much is it?Thank you

author: RES
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2017, 03:13:52 pm
content: The easiest way to have 50% with one button, and 100% with a second button is to change R1 / R2 (replace pot) on a 555 timer with duty cycle control (PWM output to PWM input of the LT3743). Check the LT3743 datasheet for what PWM frequency is needed.http://www.electroschematics.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/pulse-generator.gifhttp://www.rfwireless-world.com/images/astable-multivibrator-formula1.jpg

author: lidas
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 08, 2017, 07:09:13 pm
content: thanks for the answer, but I wanted to make it clear that I am not electronic, i can do a pcb from a project already made, so i'm grateful to you all if i design the project as it should be doneThank you
Help me hack my Aoyue 968A++ to use T12 iron - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Joebeazelman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2018, 03:42:50 pm
content: I am really impressed with the T12 soldering irons after using a Hakko one. If only my Aoyue 968A++ could perform as well. I could buy a T12 kit on eBay, but I would rather upgrade my Aoyue to save bench space. Is it possible to hack my Aoyue station to use a T12 iron handle from a T12 kit? It would also benefit from the easier pronunciation and spelling: Hackkue (Hakko and Aoyue).I don't mind a challenge. Supposedly, the wiring is a bit different. The heater and the thermocouple are in series on the T12, whereas they are separate circuits on the Aoyue. At worse, I imagine I would need to bypass the existing temperature controller with the T12 controller and wire it to the LED display. It would be even cooler (not thermally), if I could replace the LED segment with one of those nifty OLED displays.
Help me ID this monster cap... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AE7OO
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2018, 07:59:14 am
content: Hello,I removed this thing from what looks like a possible battery charger, or at least it has a battery connection on the far side from the mains connection where this thing was located. I know it is a 25 uF/250V cap. I've just never seen one like this. I have electrolytic , ceramic and film caps with this same value and they are ALL smaller. I've tried google, and my google-fu is pretty good, but this thing has me beat.I put a US penny on it to get a scale; It is a thick as about one and third pennies.NOTE: The board it came from seems to be of very high quality and from either Canada or France as on the back they describe a transistor using french numbers.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2018, 08:13:31 am
content: Polypropylene or polycarbonate metallised film capacitor, probably that thick because they used the common evaporated film construction, but used a thicker film on the plastic to get a lower ESR, and thus a higher current capacity for the capacitor, along with using a thicker, higher voltage film, so it runs at a lower electric stress, and it is not self healing like the thinner films are.

author: AE7OO
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2018, 12:22:10 pm
content: Thank you.I wonder what I can use it for? I've only got the one. I guess get out the heat gun and remove the choke that goes along with it for a massive filter for something, what I don't have clue..
Help me identify a linear or regulator with battery ok - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Cicada
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2015, 03:36:29 pm
content: HelloCan someone point me to a simple linear or switching regulator with not more than 4, 5, 6 pins that can be easily solder without a supporting PCB into a little box i.e. with wires only. So not a chip... more like a bigger TO220 type package. I can buy from RS or DIGIKEY.I will power it from a 9V battery and it must output 5V so a switching regulator will make it last longer. The important requirement is that it must have a battery ok or battery low output to drive a LED. This box will be used infrequently over long periods of time by a non-technical person. Typical use... every third month for 3 days at a time. It will be used to power two optos so the current requirement is low ~ 20mA +10mA for LED if driven from output. I think I will rather power the LED from the battery itselfThanksCicada

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2015, 03:51:09 pm
content: A PP3 9V battery discharging at 30mA will be dead in under 24H. Regulator ICs generally require supporting components (like output capacitors), and complete regulator modules are nearly always larger than TO220 size.Consider using an off-the-shelf LiPO USB portable power pack. Even so, it wont be small if you need three days running time and will need charging before use.

author: Andreas
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2015, 04:17:42 pm
content: Hello,I would split the problem into 2 parts.Voltage regulator for battery: LP2950 (TO-92)and a micropower reset generator:e.g: TL7757or a MC34164?5 with 3-4 series diodes to set the voltage level to 6-7Vor a ICL7665with best regardsAndreas

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2015, 04:20:11 pm
content: Have a look atLT1307(which is available in DIP package) orLT1308. Expensive (compared to other boost regulators) and require additional components but would allow you to run your stuff from 1-2 AA batteries and therefore you'd gain a much longer life.These two have low battery detection features built in, though not sure you can just connect a led to the IC pin, you'd need a small micro or something to sense the signal and maybe blink the led or something like that.
Help me identify component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: carpenter940
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 27, 2013, 08:17:44 pm
content: My Turtle beach (X41) transmitter still powers up but no sound comes out in either bluetooth or direct connected to headphone. I opened the transmitter up and saw one of the components was fried. Below are some pictures of the damaged area.1. What is that component called?2. What could be some possible values for that component? It looks like it has 3 prongs on one side and 2 on the other.I want to try to replace it (I have pretty good soldering skills) so any info on that part would be great.

author: AlphZeta
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 01:36:31 pm
content: Well, It looks like a TSOT23-5 device. And your choices are pretty limited (which is a good news). If I have to guess, it could be a voltage regulator or an Opamp given it's proximity to the ADC (AK5357). If you trace out the passives around U12 you probably can at least tell what type of a device it is (e.g. a regulator or an op-amp)...

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 02:15:01 pm
content: C72 is also damaged, looks like the end has blown out of it, quite likely gone short and taken the chip out with it. C74 also looks poorly too.

author: carpenter940
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 29, 2013, 02:16:46 am
content: Hi, thanks for your answers. I cleaned the area with some Isopropyl alcohol and the components around it don't look damaged at all.@ AlphZeta, you wrote "If you trace out the passives around U12 you probably can at least tell what type of a device it is (e.g. a regulator or an op-amp)..." I have to admit, I have no idea on what I would be looking for. I have a muti-meter but I don't know about circuits.I'll be looking up that component and see what it will cost me.
Help me identify pins on this flyback - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: HooRide
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2013, 12:21:34 am
content: Hello all, I've been interested in making a plasma speaker recently and need some help. I was able to find a N.O.S. flyback transformer but it didn't come with a pinout diagram.I was able to find the schematic for the monitor (terminal actually) that the flyback was intended for and I have a schematic for the circuit I wish to make.Any help figuring out which taps on the flyback correspond to the ones in the plasma speaker schematic would be great!Also, this is one of my first high voltage projects. What are some necessary precautions and/or good practices when dealing with high voltage/flybacks in general.Thanks.

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2013, 05:08:49 am
content: "Flyback" transformers,(more correctly called Horizontal output transformers),in TVs & Picture Monitors normally operate at around 15kHz with specifically shaped waveforms.These transformers do several things beside the generation of EHT,such as to drive the Horizontal Deflection coils & also provide "boost HT" of around 150v which is ,in turn,used as the supply for the horizontal & vertical output stages.We aren't "getting something for nothing",as the power to do this all comes from the lower voltage fixed supply.In your circuit,you don't have the advantage of "boost HT"& have to live with your +24v.From my calculation,the 555 produces a rectangular wave at a frequency of.20.57 kHz.Horizontal Output transformers are quite "fussy" about what frequency & wave shape they are driven with,& efficiency will be poor.I suppose you could shift the frequency to 15kHz,but that is perilously close to the Audio range,& you will have problems with intermodulation.Even 20.57KHz is a bit marginal.

author: HooRide
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2013, 05:58:43 am
content: Thanks for the info, I can see what you're talking about from the schematic, some of the taps lead to the deflection coils. The circuit attached to the post was the simplest I found online (and I had proof it worked from the video posted on youtube.)I would like to work on a different circuit that would address some of your concerns once someone can show me which pins on the transformer are for the primary and secondary coils (well, minus the obvious red electrode for the secondary.)Again, any help would be great!
Help me identify this chip please - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: JJalling
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 09:31:44 pm
content: Hi,Can you please help me identify this 8-pin chip (the one to the right marked 11M, 034):http://stuff.jalling.net/chip.pngFrom what I can see, 034 is the datecode. On one of my other decoders, it says 11M, 039.It's located in the audio output stage of a DCC decoder in a model train so I suspect it to be some kind of amplifier. It got really hot the other day, and the audio isn't working anymoreThe chip to the left is a Linear LTC2630 DAC.Anyone has an idea?Thanks,Jonas

author: 128er
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 09:45:02 pm
content: Maybe this device?SMD decryption:http://chip.tomsk.ru/chip/chipdoc.nsf/all/453AE4F3F63D418EC625789A0050209E!OpenDocumentDatasheet:http://elcodis.com/parts/6150538/stm11.html#datasheet

author: JJalling
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 20, 2014, 05:54:49 pm
content: Hi,thank you for the reply. No, I don't think it's the right chip. I'm pretty sure it's some kind of audio amplifier.I have found a picture of a similar decoder on the web:http://www.digital-bahn.de/info_lokd/lokdekoder/esu_ls4_2.jpgBR Jonas

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2014, 01:07:03 am
content: Any suggestions of which pins go where in your circuit.(shot in the dark LM311 ?)
Help me identify this component! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Mat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2014, 08:48:05 am
content: Hey guys,If anyone has an idea about what these components could be, please share.No hits for the numbers on the packaging.They measure approx. 500 Ohm DC. No significant change with temperature.What looks like ceramic base with a blob on one side.Thanks,M.

author: Frink42
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 07, 2014, 10:55:20 am
content: Could those be strain gauges? I know they tend to be flat and you can see the copper traces, but you could try measuring them (better if it's in a Wheatstone bridge circuit) while putting some strain on them (gently flexing with your finges should be enough)

author: Mat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2014, 01:09:46 pm
content: Thanks for your reply!Tried applying some force while measuring resistance, but no significant deformation or resistance change.

author: Recyclojunk64
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2014, 01:18:14 pm
content: well maybe they're.... resistors?Seriously though, they could just be resistors designed to be glued to a heatsink, hence the flat ceramic surface. How close are they to 500 ohms?EDIT: To add to the above, they could be intended for heating purposes, rather than just being resistors. Still I'm just guessing though.

author: con-f-use
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 11, 2014, 12:21:57 pm
content: I've seen Peltier elements that looked like that.

author: taiteki
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2014, 02:20:12 pm
content: looks like a micro-heater, but I do not know ....but the epoxyhttp://global.rakuten.com/en/store/ostgiken/item/omh01/

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 11, 2014, 02:27:01 pm
content: Thermal fuses?

author: madworm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2014, 02:30:58 pm
content: Might be PT500 platinum T sensors.