Enclosures for prototypes: way to extend USB and Ethernet into chassis mounts? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 240RS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2023, 07:51:54 pm
content: I like prototyping boards like STM32 Nucleos and larger development boards. I never managed to get them into enclosures when the project is done and ready to be used. This because I need to expose the usb (Micro or C) port and sometimes RJ45 for Ethernet to say the rear panel of a standard enclosure.Is there a way to extend usb/Ethernet 10cm from the board to some kind of chassis mount connector for USB and Ethernet?Related, is there a really small LCD/OLED screen you can mount neatly on a standard enclosure. I have many of those small screens, but there is always an i2C or SPI header on the side, sometimes some flatcable. I cannot be the only one wanting one with a tiny mounting frame and all connections on the rear. The smaller the better.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2023, 01:00:06 am
content: Quote from: 240RS on July 27, 2023, 07:51:54 pmTry searching for "usb/ethernet panel mount".Quote from: 240RS on July 27, 2023, 07:51:54 pmCan you post a pic of the displays you're talking about? And what do you mean by a "standard enclosure"?

author: SmallCog
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2023, 03:06:12 am
content: These sorts of things are fairly commonhttps://core-electronics.com.au/panel-mount-ethernet-extension-cable.htmlI prefer them to have a round hole mounting, easier to get a clean and tidy finish as you just drill a suitable sized hole and do the nut uphttps://core-electronics.com.au/rj-45-ethernet-round-panel-mount-extension-cable-30cm.html

author: 240RS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2023, 11:06:45 am
content: Quote from: ledtester on July 28, 2023, 01:00:06 amEnclose like attached. With a front and rear panel. OLED displays as these. Thanks.

author: 240RS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2023, 11:09:45 am
content: Quote from: SmallCog on July 28, 2023, 03:06:12 amPerfect! But bulky still (I just would use 2 in shielded twisted pairs for 100Mbps Ethernet, but is a good start.Are similar ones available for USB C/micro? Also there, cable should ideally be thin.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2023, 11:19:04 am
content: Quote from: 240RS on July 27, 2023, 07:51:54 pmDo you have a 3D printer? If not get one. Then you can make custom front and back panels, custom internal mounting bracket, and mount everything as you wish. If needed, use copper tape for shielding. See pics of one of my RF power meter projects below.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2023, 02:31:40 pm
content: Quote from: xrunner on July 28, 2023, 11:19:04 amOr use PCB for part or all of the enclosure, e.g.

author: 240RS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2023, 03:18:52 pm
content: Haha! “If not, get one”. Best tip ever. Tx. Copper tape is a good one. Like both the examples by the way. Will be doing RF stuff (thought of drilling holes for sma connectors, but even that would be a nightmare. Good to see these.

author: fourfathom
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2023, 03:41:16 pm
content: For some designs I have a small OLED display that uses a small right-angle board to hold it against the front panel of one of those small extruded chassis. The front and rear panels are PCBs with holes and cutouts for the display, connectors, mounting screws, etc. The panels are quick, easy, and cheap (via JLCPCB).

author: 240RS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2023, 04:38:05 pm
content: Quote from: fourfathom on July 28, 2023, 03:41:16 pmAnd just a cutout in the front? If you have pcb made, it would be so nice to have some kind of recessed oled in there. We cannot be the first wanting that

author: fourfathom
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2023, 04:56:47 pm
content: Quote from: 240RS on July 28, 2023, 04:38:05 pmYes it sure would ne nice. I've got clear plastic sheet that I cut to size and glue to the inside of the PCB panel. The OLED is positioned to be flush with that. It's a bit fiddly. If this were serious I might have a plastic panel label made, with a transparent section for the display.A warning about those small OLED displays -- they burn-in (pixel-fade) quite quickly if you run them at full intensity, and at low intensity they still burn in (just not as quickly). I have a "screensaver" that dims the display to minimum, and scrolls a sinewave image so all of the pixels see less than a 1% duty-cycle. I guess there's a reason why people still use LCD displays!

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2023, 06:02:29 am
content: Quote from: 240RS on July 28, 2023, 04:38:05 pmAnother option is a bezel, like:https://www.etsy.com/listing/1444376551/adafruit-featherwing-bezel-for-oled?gpla=1&gao=1&or:https://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Enclosure-Bezel-OLED-Black/dp/B09Q1LT1JPWith a 3D printer you could print one to your exact specifications.The two ideas are:- 3d print the entire front panel (like the Adafruit product)- 3d print a modular bezel that attaches to your front panel -- like how the snap-in voltmeter modules work (see pic) although it doesn't have to snap in - you could have it secured with screws. Perhaps the OLED display would be in front of your front panel plate.Update:This product:https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/eastwoodtech/qr10-pocket-high-accuracy-programmable-resistance-box?ref=discovery&term=QR10has an OLED display that is flush with the front panel.At 1:40 in this video:https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1P5411Q7LN/?spm_id_from=333.337.search-card.all.clickthere is teardown of the device and you can get an idea of how the OLED is mounted.

author: SmallCog
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2023, 06:58:08 am
content: Quote from: 240RS on July 28, 2023, 11:09:45 amYes, from just about anywhere that sells electronics supplies. I typically buy them from e14They're also available with cables to plug in (like the ones I linked) or with a socket on the back side.You can then use a suitable cable to suit your needs (eg length)

author: 240RS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2023, 11:55:50 am
content: Thanks SmallCog.Quote from: ledtester on July 29, 2023, 06:02:29 amGreat solution. I made screenshot from the video when they show the rear of the screen. Attached below. A screen with that type of mounting I have never seen. But would be ideal.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2023, 11:57:51 am
content: Quote from: 240RS on July 28, 2023, 11:09:45 amAliexpress has offerings, eg.https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-micro-usb-panel-mount.html?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20230729035558&SearchText=micro+usb+panel+mount&spm=a2g0o.productlist.1000002.0https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-usb-c-panel-mount.html?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20230729035705&SearchText=usb+c+panel+mount&spm=a2g0o.productlist.1000002.0

author: 240RS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2023, 09:20:49 pm
content: Quote from: ledtester on July 29, 2023, 11:57:51 amPerfect, thanks. That solves my rear panel.Front panel printed PCB per the tips here. Apparently also possible in aluminium:https://youtu.be/nV8RkhaKKb4(Phil’s Lab). By coincide, I used that same enclosure. Awesome combi.Next up is screen. Thought of a screen sized hole (window) in the front panel and make pcb with that screen on it and glue that to the back.

author: Ground_Loop
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2023, 09:09:43 pm
content: Here’s a couple.[ Specified attachment is not available ]USB and Ethernet chassis mount ports. The usb has a micro USB pigtail inside and the Ethernet has a RJ jack on the other side with a short jumper plugged in.The last is the OLED on my Unisolder simply mounted behind a lucite faceplate.

author: 240RS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 10:12:03 am
content: Got that working, thanks! Cutout holes in the rear by using the plastic panels from Hammond. So aluminium for the front, plastic on the back. 2eur each, so can replace when need to make changes.Next issue I have is connecting BNC on the front. I thought using a version with 4 M2 screws around it was smart. But drilling those is in the right spot is quite a challenge. What best way to mount BNC such that it will not twist after use?

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 11:27:55 am
content: Quote from: 240RS on August 14, 2023, 10:12:03 amUse a drawing/CAD program to create a drill template for your front panel from the dimensions you find in the datasheet.Here's a close-up of how the front panel BNC connector is mounted on a Fluke 1900A frequency counter -- looks like the key is a lock washer.

author: 240RS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 11:45:55 am
content: Somebody suggested to get a 3D printer for this kind of work already. No experience with it and 1000s of options. I want to do 200x50mm panels max. Is there a 3D printer printing sturdy material that is recommendable? I like the idea of printing templates. Have a vertical drill.Thanks for the fluke picture!! I have some old philips TV test equipment with 10s of these connectors on the back. I will start reusing those. These do not move an inch.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 01:28:01 pm
content: Quote from: 240RS on August 14, 2023, 11:45:55 amThat "somebody" was me.QuoteI've only needed the strength PLA for my front and back panels, and interior mounting plates. But for what I've made, it's plenty strong enough. But there are stronger plastics available for 3D printing.The parts shown are for mounting an Arduino UNO and a back panel for the case. The back panel is 2.5 mm thick but it could be a lot thicker of course based on your needs. The infill % is another thing you can change to make it stronger. Both designed by myself in Fusion 360. Once you can use a CAD program, you won't be dependent on other people's designs.

author: 240RS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 09:52:44 pm
content: Quote from: xrunner on August 14, 2023, 01:28:01 pmHaha!!! I still think it is a great tip.As for printer: PLA then. Any cheap model you can recommend?

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2023, 12:42:54 am
content: Quote from: 240RS on August 14, 2023, 09:52:44 pmI'm really not up on the latest and greatest price vs performance recommendations on filament printers. I'm still working with my Ender 3 Pro that I got about 4 years ago. I've put so many mods on it, it barely resembles the original printer. I'd do some research and see what's being recommended, or perhaps someone will post here about it.

author: EPAIII
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2023, 08:19:59 am
content: Buy chassis mount connectors. Mount them where you want them. Remove connectors from your project board(s). Add wires/cables from holes/pads in PCB where the connectors were removed to the chassis mount connectors. DONE!Keep the wires/cables as short as possible. Use twisted pairs for +/- data lines. Use heavier wires for power and ground.And YES on that 3D printer unless you have a machine shop in your garage or spare bedroom. Trust me, they are nice to have.