Junctioning 32A cooker circuit with a 13A spur. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2022, 11:53:49 am
content: I bought a new cooker hob and oven. The new cooker hob is gas, but has a 13Amp fused plug on it for the ignitors. The new oven is 16A has a plastic box with screw terminals inside for 6mm2 cable.The incoming power is via a T&E 6mm2 coming from behind a cabinet. This incoming line is isolated with a dual pole 40A isolator in the wall... as it should. And runs to a single 32A OCB (and the shared 100mA general trip).The "correct", by the book, method is to replace the 6mm2 cable and it's outlet with a dual outlet plate (ideally independently fused). Run 6mm2 to the 16A oven and 13Amp round flex to a trailing socket for the hob... or mount it in a cut out of box.Of course a spark will charge me a small fortune for that, given the feed is located behind a kitchen corner unit where the "old" pre-kitchen refit cooker used to be and would need to be pulled to get behind it.So, my "not always to code" Spark who I get to odd jobs and network cabling, advised...A 60A rugby-ball style junction box. 6mm2 in, 6mm2 + stranded flex out. Those boxes have really beefy through tube terminals with 4 screws per tube. He suggests if I strip the 13A flex really far back, fold it over, so it's at least half the length of the terminal, then slide it "underneath" the 6mm and clamp the 6mm2 down on top of it with the terminal screws.My only concern with this is the trailing socket flex is 13Amp. The circuit feeding it is 32Amp. It's not a problem of load, the gas hob pulls less than a watt and very rarely when the ignitors are used. The issue is the 13 amp cable in a 32Amp circuit. Sure the hob is fused, as long as I actually use a socket and retain the plug's fuse. But if something bad where to happen to that socket, like water ingress (it IS a kitchen), or someone put a drill through it, the 32A could melt and set fire to stuff running down that 13Amp cable.I think his response was that this is not worth worrying about and I'd be fine with the flex as long as the plug connected to it is fused.The even lazier approach is to connect the 6mm2 to the new oven and shove the bare tails from the hob in there too. How much damage would 32Amp fault current do to a 13Amp flex before the 32OCB goes? Worth the risk? I mean it's not "inaccessible" and smoke would be noticed. The oven can be pulled in a minutes.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2022, 11:56:59 am
content: Is it feasible to consider running 6mm2 through a standard UK wall socket? Would 2x6mm2 fit into the terminals? That way I could stay 6mm2 through out and use the plug socket as the junction box. I know they get used with 30Amp mains rings all the time... but would it be wise to attempt this?

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2022, 12:12:02 pm
content: I know nothing about UK wiring rulesbut I'd do it this way.Put a small ditribution panel behind the kitchen like thishttps://www.spelsberg.co.uk/small-distribution-boards/ak-compact-3-24te/73540301/run the 6mm² feed in there and junction it off to an outgoing 6mm² to the oven. Additionally put a B13 MCB in there that goes out to the hob.If there's a fault with the hob the B13 will trip before the 32Amp breaker in the CU.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2022, 01:17:43 pm
content: The 13A cable should be fused at 13A. You could connect wire it to the same feed as the oven, via a 13A fused spur.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2022, 01:18:31 pm
content: Interesting ideal. Assuming I can find room for it.Something like this:https://www.screwfix.com/p/chint-nx3-5-module-2-way-populated-garage-consumer-unit/9864vI can even just use those modules. The gas hob will not use 6A and the cooker is supposed to be a 16A fused appliance anyway.The cavity is pretty tight though.

author: DenzilPenberthy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2022, 01:27:32 pm
content: Just use a cooker isolator that has a built in socket. Like this one.Feed the oven from the isolator and plug the hob into the 13A socket, then its flex is protected by the fuse in the plug.https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AA45CCU.html

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2022, 02:47:39 pm
content: use the existing 6mm and 40A isolator for the oven,making sure to use 6mm from the isolator to the oven,and loop another 6mm (you can use 4mm if its a 32A breaker)from the supply side of the isolator into either switched a fused spur or single socket for the hob.No regs will be broken by this method,but getting 2 6mms into an isolators terminals can be funQuotemy response would be time to find another tame sparky who knows what there doing

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2022, 03:29:54 pm
content: Quote from: DenzilPenberthy on February 09, 2022, 01:27:32 pmThat would work, but... the hob flex is underneath the worktop. So would need drilled up through and replugged. That's fine.Second problem is I would need to cut the single tall vertical box out and replace it with a double box, replaster and retile. If I was doing a full refit of the cabinets/tiles the I would consider this.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2022, 03:46:36 pm
content: Quoteor use a contactum X1457

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2022, 04:27:48 pm
content: I just checked, it's a single box, not a double height, so screwed there too

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2022, 04:34:49 pm
content: so its a standard single box? is is buried in the wall or surface?Either way it dont make any difference,if its a surface pattress whip it of and replace with a 47mm double pattress and fit a new cooker control unit,if its flush and you dont mid the new box being surface, whip of the switch,fit a 47mm double pattress and new ccu

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 09:37:11 am
content: Quote from: themadhippy on February 09, 2022, 04:34:49 pmBuried in a tiled wall.Interesting. If I take the existing switch off, I should expect to find at least a plastic or metal back box... I should be able to find a way to fix the new surface mount box onto the metal box's lugs or through it into the wall if I have to and as long as the new box is held on tight it should sit fine on the surface allowing the double CCU with the plug to go there.I still have options and time, oven is delivered Tuesday and as I accidentally paid £44 to have it "installed" by their experts, I might actually leave the work until after that, so they will say, "Sorry our experts could not fit your cooker due to inadequate electrical installation... we are refunding the install fee."... you can hope, right?

author: MadScientist
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 09:52:50 am
content: I don’t see the problem , spur off to a 13A fused outlet . Fuse the spur as well

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 11:39:47 am
content: Quotemy moneys on metal,unless its a very old installationQuoteyes,theres even boxes designed for just this,for examplehttps://www.toolstation.com/axiom-pattress-box-conversion/p80152but 32mm is a a bit tight for cooker control units,you really want 45mm for an easy life,just make sure its got fixing holes in the back of the box that will line up with lugs on a single box,not all do,this looks like it might do the jobhttps://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-2-gang-surface-pattress-surface-box-47mm/714ht#product_additional_details_containerQuoteWhat will really happen is they will bodge it in any way they can

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 11:56:30 am
content: Quote from: MadScientist on February 10, 2022, 09:52:50 amYes. That is one option. However it requires a junction at some point. At the point is drops to 13A the fuse needs to be present between the 32A circuit and the 13A one. I don't find junction boxes with fuses, so that only leaves the 2 way consumer unit with 2 fused outputs the "best" option.The cowboy approach is to accept the risk of the 32A circuit spuring to a 13Amp outlet with no fuse. Knowing the only thing plugged in there has a 13Amp fuse in it's plug. The risk is the 13A flex could technically overload between the 6mm connection and the fuse in the appliance plug. That is extremely remote risk, the result would potentially be a hidden smoldering cable and or connections, which may persist to fire in the unlikely event the heat melts some flammable plastic, paint or varnish. My tame spark says that is done all the time. That is obviously tame spark code for, it's not how it's meant to be done.Finally I have the easiest option of all, but it's a bit janky. I can just run the hob off the plug socket for the dishwasher and a double extension. The janky bit is, when someone flips the isolator for the cooker, it will NOT isolate the hob. I can put a sticky label on the isolator that says "OVEN ONLY" and on the dishwasher spur: DISHWASHER + HOB. Would that cut it? Seems the easiest option.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 12:09:01 pm
content: QuoteThe only time you need to fuse down is when the current carrying capacity of the circuit is reduced,and thats exactly what the fused spur is doing,the point were the circuit splits into 2 doesn't need protecting if the junction box and cables are rated for whatever size fuse if feeding themQuotebest stock up on double extension leads and 13A fuses

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 12:41:14 pm
content: Quote from: themadhippy on February 10, 2022, 12:09:01 pmYes, the feeding circuit is 32A on 6mm cable. You mention that the point at which the cable splits does not need protecting as long as the cables it splits into being capable of carrying the full feed circuit current. A fused spur would need to be fed with the 6mm cable then. That still involves trying to spur, split or junction the 6mm cable.The old hob had a junction box on it, using brass bus clips to join the incoming 6mm to an outgoing 13Amp flex to the over, ironically the previous OVEN was 13A. No fuse. In fact their bus contacts where so cheap and flimsy there was evidence of burning and high heat around the live connections.On the dishwasher extension... the new hob is gas. It only has a mains plug for purposes of running the spark ignitors. That' can't be more than 1 watt instantaneous load?

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 12:43:13 pm
content: So we have established various options with different amounts of "correctness".My plan now is to wait on the oven arriving and if it happens to have a junction box for the 6mm and implies I can link the hob to it, then that is what I will do.If the oven has no provision to share it's junction box with the hob, I will wire the hob to the dishwasher spur "for now"... "permanently temporarily" with the aim to fix it up properly later.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 01:18:20 pm
content: QuoteyesQuotewhip the spur off and fit a double socket,job done, or fit another spur beside the existing,if the existing is flush you could use a surface dual accessory box fit the existing spur oneside and the new spur/single socket on the other

author: dmills
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 01:46:05 pm
content: I think you are over thinking this.A standard UK ring circuit (It is a weird UK thing for the non UK crowd) is typically fed by a 32A breaker, and nobody worries about a 2.5mm spur to a single socket.Seems to me that the 6mm 32A line to the oven switch with a short 2.5mm spur to a socket (or more usefully, a switched fused spur for the igniters) is very much equivalent and should be just fine.Or just change the breaker to a 16A one at the DB and call it good, I don't see the issue.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 02:01:00 pm
content: Quote from: dmills on February 10, 2022, 01:46:05 pmYou have a point. I know single spurs off the ring on 2.5mm are common and as you point out it's basically the same thing. If someone puts a drill through that 2.5mm cable it will get give 32Amps of current from the ring until its breaker pops.Also, good point about the 16A breaker. The oven only needs a 16A fuse, the ignitors are negligible and I can more easily use 16A flex for the socket spur and let the hob fuse it's self at 13Amp.The 60A junction box should be grand for creating the spur.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 03:50:54 pm
content: QuoteIndeed,but come the time you want to sell the place and mr cartel member turns up to do your electrical safety certificate the potential buyer is paying for he's going to say no because it isnt in the big expensive book of rules,and quote a rip off price to "make it safe"

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 04:11:29 pm
content: Quote from: themadhippy on February 10, 2022, 03:50:54 pmThat's easy to flip the other way. (1) it's on the end of a cable, it's consumer equipment and not installation work. (2) "Fine, I'll remove the cooker/appliances from the sale and remove them on my departure"It's sort of why I like the more cowboy approach as it's IS just consumer side add ons. A 13A extension lead for the hob and the 6mm tail to the cooker. I can switch back to all electric or leave it as it was later. If I start installing actual spurs and fused/switched spur boxes, THEN it WILL have to be to code as it IS installation work.... and if I change my mind later and go back to electric, or switch to induction, I don't need to rip it out and resinstall another setup.EDIT: I think the terms "TO CODE" and "SAFE" and both usable. But many SAFE installations would not be "TO CODE". All I really want is SAFE. SAFE enough that an actual spark would frown, but be happy enough, rather than backing away and refusing to work on it.And I don't want to set my kitchen on fire either.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 04:46:57 pm
content: UK Regs do allow cable to be protected by fusing at the far end under certain circumstances - I'm not sufficiently familiar with the details to know if this would apply here.Why does the cooker socket need to be on flex ? 4mm cable to that socket would be fine, assuming you can get a 6 and a 4 into the terminals of the isolator.

author: richard.cs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 05:10:13 pm
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on February 10, 2022, 04:46:57 pmThis is exactly what applies here, and why 2.5 mm2spurs are allowed on a 32 A circuit. You have to separately meet these two criteria:1. Protection against overload unless the load by its nature can't fail so as to produce overload. This can be at any point, so it is met by a downstream 13 A or smaller fuse.2. Protection against short circuit, assumed to be a zero-Ohm short at the most distant point.There are some assumptions baked into this, but the end result is you can take a 13 A rated flex* off a 32 A circuit to feed the hob, and connect the hob via a FCU** or a 13A plug, (probably with a 3 A fuse, that's plenty***, but you may be able to get away with higher). That fuse protects the cable against overload, because if some weird fault were to make the hob igniter draw say 20 A the fuse would blow before the cable is damaged. Separately, if a short circuit were to occur at the last point in that cable before the fuse, the total loop resistance (external supply impedance + 6mm cable + flex) needs to be low enough that the 32 A MCB would trip quickly enough to protect the cable. You check this by looking at the expected fault current, and corresponding max tripping time, and then you can work out the let through energy and the maximum temperature the cable gets to. You or your electrician should do this calculation, but in practice you'll find it is fine for sensible lengths of flex (too long and the MCB trips too slowly and the let though energy and final temperature is higher).UK wiring regs are like this, you're expected to do actual engineering calculations rather than the US "rigidly follow code" approach. There are upsides and downsides to this.Also, why not reduce the MCB feeding the 6mm cable to 16 A anyway? You may find the manufacturer's instructions (which you're supposed to "take account of") require that anyway, and that is a cheap and straightforward job.*Why flex here though? A bit of 1.5 or 2.5 mm2T&E to a FCU would seem more conventional. If you do use flex you should really use ferrules.**FCU = fused connection unit. It's a thing we have in the UK that takes the same type of fuses as the plugs but is for permanently installed things.*** These ignition things take a couple of milliamps.

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2022, 11:11:06 am
content: QuotePerhaps because it's a ring circuit, not a single-ended job.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2022, 05:49:06 pm
content: Quote from: richard.cs on February 10, 2022, 05:10:13 pmThat's a good point. With most UK appliances they come with a fuse in the "plug". The oven is a hardwire, it says it has a 16A 'fuse' requirement NOT a 16A circuit requirement. In Europe they apparently have a 16A 3 pin connector on a single 16A circuit... so ovens are often rated to 16A, not 13A like UK plug-in ovens. The short of it is... it expects to be on a 16A fused spur in Europe. So ... it probably doesn't have an internal fuse... and yes, should be fused at 16A at the consumer unit. I have a spare in there, need to check it's rating, I could get lucky, but Screwfix sell them pretty cheap.Quote from: richard.cs on February 10, 2022, 05:10:13 pm* I figured it was easier to work with and would allow me to leave the socket floating on the floor of the cavity rather than trying to fix it up anywhere.** FCU. Never heard of. Adds a new dimension.*** Yea. The irony is I could probably run an ignitor circuit of a 18650 lion for months. Only the circuitry is obviously going to use the mains voltage.EDIT: FCU: Is that just the fused spur panels with the switch they use for dishwashers/washingmachines? Ohh.... penny drop! Of course. They normally end up as a floating socket extension under the kick boards for easy use. The fuse in the spur panel is to fuse that bit of cable, even through the dishwasher/et.al. has it's own fuse (UK plugs).

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2022, 05:30:31 pm
content: All done. Both cookers working.6mm feed -> 60A junction 6mm + 2.5mm out. 2.5 goes to a single plug socket, 6mm goes to the new oven.All I have as open items is to drop the 32A to a 16A MCB T3.

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2022, 12:12:53 am
content: Quote from: paulca on February 11, 2022, 05:49:06 pmMost electric ovens and hobs these days tend to be designed for Europe. The nature of a heating cycle of an oven and hob mean it's unlikely to be a problem, but you can run into issues with the 13A plug getting pretty warm on appliances rated over 2 kW used for long periods, particularly in a poor quality socket.It would have been acceptable to connect the oven and hob directly to the cooker supply with no additional fusing down, the oven itself is unable to create an overload situation (it's a fixed load), so provided the cable is adequately rated for the 3+ kW, nothing else is required. Of course you must do your tests to confirm the PFCC at the appliance is high enough to meet disconnection times.There's no need to change the MCB.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2022, 12:34:48 am
content: Quoteso a lump of 1mm protected by a 32A mcb is fine?

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2022, 10:08:08 am
content: Quote from: themadhippy on February 16, 2022, 12:34:48 amNo.There is no need to change the MCB, as the 2.5mm cable goes to a 13A socket, so the cable is protected by the fuse in the plug. As mentioned before, it is often permissable to protect the cable at the far end.1mm would not be OK, as a 13A fuse would not provide adequate protection for the cable.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2022, 11:51:30 am
content: Quote1mm T+E is rated for 16a clipped direct, so more than capable of dealing with 3kw and the only time a fuse is mentioned is that it aint neededQuote

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2022, 05:14:30 pm
content: Quote from: themadhippy on February 16, 2022, 12:34:48 amIf it meets the requirements of 433.3 in the regs, generally that there is sufficient protection or it is unlikely that the cable is to be mechanically damaged and that the appliance on the load side of the cable results in the conductors being unlikely to be subject to overload. The conductors must meet 434 for fault currents and disconnection times.Consider a typical busbar chamber, that may be protected by only 400A fuses. The conductors attached to these will not all be 240mm². It's quite normal to tap off these in 2.5mm for things like fire alarms, local lighting where the above regulations are adhered to.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2022, 09:27:02 am
content: In Europe the cooker point is most likely a single 2.5mm 16 Amp spur circuit. Possibly with a larger circuit for the hob additionally. It could be a 30A circuit that is split into 2x16A circuits locally to the device, but... 16A isn't enough to run a 6kW hob.In the UK we typically have 30A cooker circuits, traditionally for a single floor standing, all in one cooker. In modern times and in modern kitchen designs and.. falling price (and quality) of 'white goods' people are installing "built in" ovens and separate hobs. This is presenting interesting challenges for people with refitted kitchens without direct access to the cooker feed which is buried in a concrete wall in a bit of PVC tubing (if you are lucky).The main thing at play here however is that in the UK EVERY SINGLE plug in device has a fuse in it's plug. So we 'know' that a plug socket on the end of a 2.5 spur can only carry 13 Amps.Now... I could sell the house to a moron who buys a cheap Chinese double or triple adapter, with no fuse, and tries to run a kettle, a toaster and a tumble drier off that socket. But, you can't always account for idiots and poor quality consumer side add-ons. If you MUST buy a double or triple adapter, often found in appliance dense areas in kitchens to keep in frequently used devices plugged in, you get a 13Amp fused one. These have been standard for decades because it was a common fire hazard in 1970s 1980s kitchen which only had 1 or 2 sockets. Usually 1 on the 30A cooker control plate and one on the 30A mains ring. So to run a kettle, an iron and a electric fan heater, they just stacked double adapters in the one socket and it would happily supply 2 or 3 13A devices... but of course that leads to heat, that and the double adapters generally were unstable with heavy flexes tending to pull them apart, so... incompletely high resistance contacts in the adapter stack led to huge heat and eventually arc'ing, sparks and or fire. They even had TV adverts warning people of the dangers of adapter stacking.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2022, 09:39:11 am
content: Oh, a note on the installation, which was done by Curry's. £44.To be honest I was not expecting as much as I got. The first thing the installer said was, "Oh, you can't have 2.5mm for your hob. You need way more than.... oh, that's a gas hob. Okay, fine, sorry."He then test fitted the oven, which cleared the hob gas pipe by literally mm's. Then he inspected the consumer unit to verify it was a single circuit with appropriate MCB. Then tested the circuit with a fluke mains tested thing. Not a full test, just a single end test which said, "GOOD".I will pull the oven and reinspect the wiring in a few weeks and maybe fire and IR camera at the junction box while running the oven. Just to check there are no relaxing connections. The junction boxes and NOT maintenance free, but it is easily accessible.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2022, 10:08:24 am
content: As a complete aside, not electrical related at all, but quite frankly the most scary part of this whole cooker swap over.....The original plumber who installed the hob, didn't test it, wasn't "Gas SAFE" certified and just an "odd jobs" man who does a bit of plumbing.IT LEAKED! FOR A WEEK! Half a bottle of gas gone down into the under floor cavity of the house.... while I slept, while I played with my daughter. There are SOME benefits to still having the underfloor breather vents for the (now removed) coal fire. Even though they cause annoying drafts in winter.I occasionally smelt gas, particularly when pulling the old oven out to inspect the wiring I had to do, but figured it was just because I'd used it recently and any "spilt" gas while lighting it, would collect in there.I became more suspicious when, as a random impulse put my nose on the floor of the kitchen first thing in the morning when the cooker had been out of use for 12 hours. I caught a few whiffs of propane, decided to turn the bottle off and wait 15 minutes and check with my nose again. No gas smell!!!So I pulled the oven out, turned the gas bottle on again and sprayed the gas pipe with kitchen cleaner spray. It immediately fizzed and bubbled angrily. I turned it back off. I "weighed" the bottle in my hands and swung it around, it has got liquid propane in there still, but maybe only half a bottle.Called another plumber out. He asked why I don't get the previous guy out to fix his work. I replied, "with a gas leak, you only get one strike. I don't want him to fix it."Looking at the joint, I seen unburnt flux, not just uncleaned flux, but unburnt flux and you could feel with your finger nail part of the joiner collar was not flowed with solder at all. Additionally there was a drop of oil dripping off the pipe (before I had used the spray). I figure this was machine oil impurity in the gas from the compressor that had been collecting over half a bottle of leaking through a tiny hole.I did for about 5 seconds consider fixing it myself. However, I knew none of my irons stood a chance against a cooper pipe and I doubt the heat gun on max would be capable either, besides, I only have leaded solder. Anyway, the slap around the back of the head came internally rather rapidly with "IT IS GAS, NO! GET PROFESSIONAL!". Wiring, fine, careful, paranoid, planned, thought out and implemented cleanly and tested. Fine. Gas, no. Just no.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2022, 10:12:12 am
content: The chance of the house going "BOOOM!" was relatively remote. What was NOT remote however would have been any spark in that oven cavity under the hob. I had left everything disconnected and I am thankful for that now. If I had wired the old oven back up, powered it and the relay clicked and arced while the hob was filling the oven with gas... the leak had enough flow to become a right flame thrower, spreading through the undercounter cupboards trying to find ways up and out.

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 24, 2022, 03:45:16 pm
content: Quote from: paulca on February 17, 2022, 09:27:02 amTechnically, a 16A supply is fine for a cooking appliance up to 6.5 kW. Bear in mind Table 6.2 in the regs that allow for diversity to be applied to certain types of load

author: Lectro
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2022, 02:57:59 pm
content: Quote from: themadhippy on February 09, 2022, 03:46:36 pmI've been looking for one of these for ages, but I can't find them anywhere.