Where to buy OR how to easily make connector cables for my project? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Phoxtane
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 01:59:56 am
content: My current task that I've assigned myself is to get some cables together so I can test and connect up my circuits properly. Since I had been anticipating this from the start of the project, I have on hand a generic ratcheting crimping tool and one of those assortment pack of .1-inch headers and male/female crimp pins ('Dupont' style), as well as fifteen feet of 10-wire ribbon cable. What I didn't count on was the amazing amount of work it takes to actually get those pins into their housings. We're talking the better part of twenty minutes to slide six pins into the corresponding housing, even with the pliers and long pokey devices I had on hand to try to force them in - with only three of the six successfully installed at the end of it. They're all the right way up, before anyone asks.As such, I've decided that in the end I should just save myself the time and hassle and either buy some pre-built cables, or I find a better way to assemble the cables myself.I'm not really seeing much in the way of being able to buy pre-built cables; however, I'm not opposed to assembling the cables myself if it's going to be easier. I have noticed that Digikey sells wires with pre-crimped connections (and presumably the accompanying housings), as does Pololu. However, I'd like to be able to use the ribbon cable I already have, since it'd make my wiring much cleaner - and that's the stuff I'm having trouble with. The crimps seem to be holding just fine, it's the whole 'insert pokey bit into pokey bit receptacle' part that's giving me trouble. I'd love to get my hands on a connector for ribbon cables that respects the .1-inch spacing, similar to these:... Except with one row and six pins, spaced correctly for the typical Arduino-style header. Looks like for those I need to just get myself some clamping sockets, and something to clamp with.What's the better option here? Buying pre-crimped cables and housings, or buying the clamping sockets? I know where to find the former - what should I be looking for in terms of search terms and categories for the second? Is it just better to buy pre-made cables altogether?

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 02:12:22 am
content: QuoteI'm pretty sure you're doing something wrong. I use Molex SL and it takes me much longer to crimp them than it does to push them into the housing.The connector in your picture is an insulation displacement type (IDC) they pretty much just clamp on using a vise or a big set of pliers.

author: batteksystem
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 02:12:53 am
content: I remember building this kind of cables with nothing but a vise, you put the flat cable in between the connector assembly, then gradually apply force until you hear the click. That's it.

author: Phoxtane
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 02:24:23 am
content: Well, that was fast!Quote from: blueskull on August 18, 2016, 02:09:05 amI've already got the cable, I just need connectors for it - ideally, single-row connectors as that's what my board uses.Quote from: rdl on August 18, 2016, 02:12:22 amQuote from: batteksystem on August 18, 2016, 02:12:53 amHere's a close-up image of one of the pins I'm having issues with:I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong - if I'm over-crimping, or what? I thought the whole point of a ratcheting tool is that once the ratchet releases, the crimp is solid and can be used. I'm now wondering if I'm not supposed to squeeze it down all the way, but just until the ratchet releases...As for the IDC connectors, they seem like the easiest option - you just slide in the cable and clamp them down. Like I've said, the trick appears to be getting them in six-position and single-row packages.

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 02:24:58 am
content: Wow, it shouldn't take even 5 seconds (literally) to push a terminal into the connector block. Something is dramatically wrong here.Note that virtually ALL ribbon cable (and connectors) are 0.05 inch pitch (20 per inch). When you use dual-row connectors, you get 0.1-spacing x 2 rows.You seem to be asking for 0.1 inch spaced ribbon cable and connectors. This is rather rare (and therefore expensive) because it is quite uncommon.

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 02:26:58 am
content: From your photo, it looks VERY much like you are using either the wrong crimping tool, or you are over-crimping it.The terminal should be perfectly straight with no bits of anything sticking out that would prevent easily slipping it into the connector shell.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 02:31:33 am
content: 5 seconds on eBay:http://www.ebay.com/itm/321823196217

author: Phoxtane
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 02:55:11 am
content: Quote from: Richard Crowley on August 18, 2016, 02:26:58 amIf it helps any, this is the exact tool I'm using:https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Insulated-Crimping-Compression-Ratcheting/dp/B00DHCRVSCMy crimping process is to insert the crimp into the tool's middle hole, close it down enough that it stays in place while I insert the wire into the crimp, and then squeeze down all the way. I then place it into the smallest hole and re-crimp it there, squeezing all the way as I can easily pull the crimp off without the second crimp. I'll go back and see if I can get away with only crimping until the ratchet releases rather than a full squeeze on the second crimp as I suspect it may be deforming the crimp to the point where it no longer fits properly in the housing.

author: electosleepy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 03:07:04 am
content: The crimp that you have shown is quite bent and should be flat. You should try bending it back if you can and then you may be able to insert it. Have a look at how a crimp is inserted into this crimping tool, the back of the crimp is placed on the flat part of the jaws and there is no possible way for it to bend/deform, like your crimp.https://www.pololu.com/product/1928

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 03:13:45 am
content: We don't have any way of knowing...Are those the proper terminals for the wire gauge you are using?Are you stripping and positioning the wire properly in the terminal?Are you using the crimping tool properly? The proper size die? The proper amount of compression?Are those the proper terminals for your connector shell?Why is the crimped terminal crooked? It should be perfectly straight.Why does there appear to be extruded metal "flash" coming out of the terminal? There should be zero.Are the terminals perfectly square in cross-section? If not, why not?

author: radar_macgyver
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 05:48:36 am
content: Pololu has a couple of videos and a checklist you can use to verify your technique:https://www.pololu.com/product/1928/resources

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 07:29:13 am
content: The very common type of $14 ratchet tool seems to be compromised in terms of contact support and die quality:But I'm sure it is possible to get good crimps if you are careful about technique. Since there is no locator, you need to pay close attention to the position of the terminal in the dies. Only crimp in the correct nest, and never crush the contact! The female or male part of the contact should be completely outside the die when you crimp.The original tool from Berg has a locator and wire stop, so you don't have this kind of problem. The terminals are never crushed and it doesn't make bad crimps if you don't pay close attention.http://tech.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/

author: Phoxtane
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 07:59:06 pm
content: The dies I have in the tool do have a larger side and smaller side, so all I have to do is clamp down the tool so the crimp is held in place and pull it out until it can't move further. That seems to get the positioning right.The crimping pressure seems to be the issue - the 6P header I tried this morning worked fine, and I didn't crimp down all the way. Only one out of the six crimps required persuasion with a poking utensil.

author: Phoxtane
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 02:33:23 pm
content: So now that we've worked out how to make cables properly with the crimping tool, does anybody have recommendations for where to buy pre-built cables as described? I figure it should be helpful to have all of this information on hand.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 03:04:24 pm
content: Nonono, you crimp in the correct-sized hole only!The two 'wing' sections of the crimp terminal should grip the insulation and the wire core, respectively. You only need a little insulation stripped away to achieve this. Wire should not extend beyond the crimp area, insulation should not extend into the inner pair of crimp wings, and insulation should not be stripped back behind the end pair of crimp wings. Also, you don't need to solder properly crimped terminals, and shouldn't! (Note: I've been known to do crimps by hand, using only pliers (when no crimp tool was available). It's tedious and slow, and doesn't give good results. I usually solder these, just in case.)Anyway, you may also consider punch-down connectors. These are IDC, but designed to use loose wires, rather than ribbons. The reliability is generally good, but don't go tugging on the wires and connectors too much!And as for made-to-order cables, there are many manufacturers you can talk to, though that's usually a production matter -- you'll be burning up a lot of NRE if you're just using them for prototyping.Many suppliers (Digikey for one) have standard types of cables to-order (by length, number of wires/pins, nothing fancy), which may be the way to go.There are probably even better suppliers of commodity cables, but I don't know offhand...Tim

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 04:40:31 pm
content: Quote from: Phoxtane on August 18, 2016, 02:55:11 ammy crimping tool... after soldering wire to dupont female pin, and then crimp away. i only have to make sure i dont over solder and make big bulge prohibit a smooth slide in to the house like i always did... yeah something wrong with your crimping tool (blame the tool hat)...

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 05:31:22 pm
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on August 19, 2016, 04:40:31 pmI thought I was the only one.(now we restart the debate about why you should never solder wire to anything, that crimping is much better...)Quote from: Phoxtane on August 19, 2016, 02:33:23 pmSee the link I posted above...

author: technotronix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2016, 07:52:42 am
content: I had pretty good experience with ebay and amazon.You can try.

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2016, 12:54:18 pm
content: In Australia, look for something liked these at Altronics...they will be available everywhere.http://www.altronics.com.au/p/p5706-6-pin-idc-header-plug-2.54mm/

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2016, 03:51:00 pm
content: I think this is what you want :http://uk.farnell.com/ribbon-cable-flat-cable-assembliesChange UK for your country or use newark.com instead of farnell.com (they're the same company).Filter by number of rows and contacts, and pay attention to prices. Sometimes 10 way connectors are cheaper than 5 or 6 way cables since they're more commonly used.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2016, 06:42:28 pm
content: What I use for that is regular female pin header and wrapping wire. Wire wrap onto the rectangular solder pin, and a good strain reliefed connection is made. Then tie off the wires into a tight bundle, near the header and then every inch or so (with short pieces of wrap wire), and it's very solid and compact.For an Arduino ICSP cable, you would usually only need one or two of these cables. So for something more permanent, I have run the wire wrap wires through the emptied insulation for an old serial mouse. The really flexible stuff. Run a piece of thicker gauge wire or fishing line thru the empty insulation, then tie the wire wrap wire to the end and pull it thru. Then wire wrap, using a continuity tester to discern the connections. Then mold hot glue over the ends of the connectors and over the end of the insulation, with some thread wrapped over, mixed in with the glue, so the glue doesn't pull away from the flexible insulation over time. I have been using said ICSP cables for over a decade.Way more flexible and handy than a ribbon cable. I know... you're supposed to need stranded wire for a cable. But when the wire gets thin enough, it works fine and is very flexible.

author: bicc1306
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2016, 12:15:20 pm
content: Here are some of the step to make connector cable at your home.http://www.groundcontrol.com/galileo/ch5-ethernet.htmAlso you can try purchasing online cable from ebay.