REVIEW: Mastech MS2108A Non T-RMS clamp meter and some updates on my bench. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 03:12:01 pm
content: It took me more than 2 months to do this review since the first clamp meter I had blow up its tantalum capacitor. Finally got another one from the eBay seller, so I could review and tear it down now.I also took video of my bench with the new non electronics equipment I got, that’s the first couple minutes of the video, I hope you guys don’t mind to see that.About the meter itself, I was little bit surprised to see its performance to be honest, the measurements I did where good for this price range the meter itself feels really solid in the hand, there where couple things to mention about Mastech’s support when things go wrong and some of the wires and flat cables where directly soldered on the PCB like Wytnucls mention in the previous post when I was showing the blown cap.For the price range it is doing pretty good in DC current measuring it was even doing better than my Fluke 336 clamp meter, Frequency measurements on a Function generator was also accurate, specs on eBay claimed to have max 10MHz but it reads even beyond 20MHz while my Extech MM570A stop measuring after 3MHz.I think this meter is nice to have for the price you pay even as a spare clamp meter, if you do a lot measurements in your car it’s definitely worth getting it, but if you need more accurate meter in AC range get the model without A, the MS2108 that one is T-RMS and has inrush function and it will cost you only 18USD more than this one, to be honest if I knew that before I got the meter I would get that one, but there is nothing eBay which ships to the Netherlands, didn’t check Dealextreme because of their slow shipment but they have the MS2108 for 62USD shipped while MS2108A costs 44USD shipped from eBay.Here is the video, I hope you will enjoy it:Here the first topic with blown cap:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/is-it-me-or-does-everything-ending-with-tech-goes-berserk-on-me/

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 04:51:05 pm
content: Thanks for making this review.I still have to do my reviews on my MS2108 compared to the UT204A, but I have some disagreements with you here this time.I really don't like the build quality of the Mastech. The case is springy and doesn't stay closed as the seams that well. I had screws inside that were stripped at manufacture, the board is held in place by clips on the case and they don't hold very well, the ribbon cable to the jaw lamp failed after two disassembles, the COM input jack feels like it is bending the circuit board when inserting the leads, and you can go past the OFF selections on the dial a little on each end.There are other things I don't like but I will save them for my review.

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 05:07:00 pm
content: That’s kind a weird because I didn’t see anything wrong with the case itself, it is pretty solid when I twist it around, not to brag out but I can press around 110kg with my hands and I didn’t feel anything weird on the case. I sure like to see your review when it is done. The PCB in here is hold down by the case itself with plastic clips as you know I took this thing apart more than enough and had no issues with screw receivers getting dull and the ribbon cable, but I said in the review that I don’t like how they lead the ribbon cable of the clamp through the case and it is already damaged little but still not broken yet. But it could be the QC issue and can differ from model to model.I even like the material used on the case, it doesn’t feel like some cheap plastic case on cheaper meters.

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 06:29:26 pm
content: Upon request of SeanB at Youtube here a little teardown of the clamp:Flat cable has 8 wires and goes to the end of the metal with a pcb mounted component:This is what I see on the component, but I did a fast search and couldn’t find something about it, I am sure there is enough guys here who will recognize it, it took me a lot photo shots to get it right:The clamp plastic shell was glued together the part with ribbon cable was fairly easy to take it apart but was still nicely glued, the other side needed some sawing and cutting and didn’t survive at the end

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 06:34:25 pm
content: Hall effect sensor. Nice lab and video

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 06:59:23 pm
content: Plain linear hall sensor, looks very similar to the ones I see in old disk drive motors under the platter. Thanks for the destruction and the photos. I am sure somebody will give a datasheet on this one.

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 07:40:28 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on March 31, 2013, 06:34:25 pmThanks RobrenzQuote from: SeanB on March 31, 2013, 06:59:23 pmNo problem Sean, I am glad if it was helpful

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 08:36:21 pm
content: I have ordered one...... The TRMS version, as it has a 6600 count, and is not that much more cost wise.

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 08:50:34 pm
content: That’s a good choice, if Dealextreme didn’t bad job on my previous orders like deliver times between 2 to 3 months I would check there and get that one too, it was just shame I couldn’t find one on eBay sending to Netherlands.And a month ago when I found the TRMS on DE, I ordered a Uni-T USB data cable to see how fast they deliver again and it took 2 weeks

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 09:27:09 pm
content: Makes no difference to me, it will always take 2-3 weeks for SAPO to get the message through that delivery actually is a thing that needs doing.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 09:39:39 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on March 31, 2013, 08:36:21 pmWell at least you were warned. I wish I had not purchased mine.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 09:42:29 pm
content: I have AC clamp meters, a DC one will be nice. The errors I can live with, it is more that I really like the clamp meter as a current measuring tool.

author: neuraxon77
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 10:44:53 pm
content: I have an MS2108A and Spawn's review pretty much covers my issues with it. However despite the bumps I find the knob slippery and not the easiest to adjust single handed, roughening it up should fix it. Mine also reads slightly high on the DCA clamp readings. Min/Max work well for current but there appears to be a range issue for voltage and only works on the mV range for me, otherwise voltage readings are within spec. On the voltage range I often find it reading +/- a couple of hundred mV until I short the leads, so there may be some stray capacitance. For a cheap DCA clamp meter, it does the job.Craig.

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2013, 12:40:29 am
content: Good to hear you got same impression with the meter Craig, welcome to the forumsYes I was talking about the rotary switch in the video too, for me it was not hard to change with one hand, but I got big hands so it could be issue for people with smaller hands I think and since you can put it in between two ranges it could be a problem.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2018, 01:16:37 am
content: Post Revival:I was almost about to pull the trigger on a Uni-Trickortreat UT210E clamp meter and I spotted this postI bought this unloved Mastech MS2108A pawn special ridiculously cheap a while back in it's pouch, looked like it never got switched onbeen sitting in a car boot bag for ages for those odd times I ?might? need it (if I remember it's there)I did not realize till I saw the Youtube video posted abovethat this meter does DC current, and can zero it out with the REL buttonThe one I have was literally new and works great, with no selector control issues, it's solid and turns and stops as it should,the supplied Mastech leads are ok, short n sweet and plug in all the way with no problem.Serial number is MBDIC 081xxQC PASSED (3)Hacks:I did put a small stickon yellow dot on the selector knob so I could see where it was switched to,a grey arrow on a grey circular knob (...and anotherDumbass Design Alert) in a dark place tells me nothingKlein does irritating things like this too, I use a stickon orange dot for that one

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2018, 03:32:16 am
content: Had one, wasn't impressed.No support (not even a reply) from Mastech, I'll avoid their junk in the future.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2018, 09:46:12 pm
content: Are Mastech any worse than UNI-T ?I have a rebadged Mastech MS5208 Digital Multimeter and Insulation Tester CATIII 1000V and I can't fault it,everything works, tidy insides, fused well, and cheap!It's not like my Flukes but hey it does the business and good enough for an All In One, if I had to I could get by with just this meter for most tasksamazon.com/Mastech-MS5208-Multimeter-Insulation-Temperature/dp/B00KXC8TRGAn equivalent Fluke or Agilent would cost 6 times more, and only bring better CAT performance, maybe... and prestige of courseAt those prices I wouldn't expect any support from Mastech anyway, it's easier to return to the seller and get a replacementBrymen are contactable, but if the issue is not user remedial they refer you back to the seller or local distributor,of which I had a recent experience and received a replacement new meterWhat's UNI-T support like btw?