HYELEC HY3005 30V DC Triple Lab Power Supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 01:30:50 pm
content: Hello,Wanted to check if somebody has this power supply in particular (HYELEC), and how good it is in terms of build quality, heat sink design, capacitor brands, precision of meters?HY3005F-3 with digital display:http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/HYELEC-HY3005F-3-0-30V0-5A_337852180.htmlHY3005S-3 with analog VU meters:http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/HYELEC-30V-DC-OUTPUT-LAB-POWER_324238486.htmlThe model with the analog VU meters looks really nice.Note that there are different manufacturers out there who make HY3005 power supplies, such as Mastech, Dr Meter, Tekpower. But the fact that the model number starts with HY, and this company is called HYELEC, maybe HYELEC is the original company behind the product?If somebody out here has the actual HYELEC version (either with digital display or analog VU meter) it would be highly appreciated if you can provide feedback on the quality of the power supply, and maybe even provide photos of the internals with close up on metal housing, metal bars, PCB boards, heat sink design.I have contacted the manufacturer for more information on these power supplies, and will add the info to this posting, when I receive more info, as more people could be interested in this power supply.Regards,Pascal

author: leppie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 02:00:18 pm
content: Looks like that ATTEN crap.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 02:14:24 pm
content: Toolboom seems to have carried some HYelec power supplies:http://toolboom.com/en/Power-Supply-Units-HYelecBut then again, they also carry Atten

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 05:45:52 pm
content: skip

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 07:21:34 pm
content: You mean skip the HYelec power supply and buy some decent brand? =)

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 07:44:44 pm
content: Those things are bloody awful. You grab one and pick it up nearly throw it through the ceiling by accident because it weighs so little.Better bet for less is a TTi, HP/Agilent, Farnell, Hameg supply off eBay, Craigslist, Gumtree depending on where you are. TTi PL are a good bet - bomb proof.I like pre-Agilent HP kit myself. My main PSU is an HP6236B. Paid very little for it (£20 I think)

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 07:59:17 pm
content: Quote from: pascal_sweden on April 20, 2015, 07:21:34 pmI got a couple of company names mixed up, and the forum software wouldn't just let me leave the post blank.As per that particular model, it's sold under multiple labels by different manufacturers so the quality can vary. Found onethread on a HYelec HY3003D, which contains a whopping 2 posts. Might want to PM the OP and see if it's holding up well, and if he's taken any internal photos (and post them here as well as the linked thread).Not very familiar with HYelec brand, but I know Mastech makes them with decent enough construction. If you can't find further information on HYelec, I'd recommend looking into this brand if you're set on buying one.Personally however, I'd recommend going for a quality used unit instead (HP/Agilent/Keysight and others for example). You get a lot more value for your money this way (i.e. can get a fully functioning unit for less than the enclosure & transformer would cost you to build one). Value is even better if you go for multiple output models IME (dual, triple, or quad output).YMMV, but I've always opted for used whenever possible to good effect.

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 08:23:51 pm
content: If I recall correctly the mastech ones werent to bad, often rebranded.

author: LaurenceW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 09:44:39 pm
content: "Cheap Power Supply" becomes "expensive project destroyer" when the switch on spike (caused by poor electronics design) takes out your processor chip. I would avoid these at any cost. Look long term - this purchase might last you DECADES. Spend a little more now on something you can rely on. Finding a second hand branded power supply (HP, TTI, etc., there are many) in your country (shipping heavy metal is expensive!)is definitley the smarter move."I can't afford cheap gear"

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 09:58:25 pm
content: These things are rebranded by a LOT of people. I actually have two of them I got for cheap. Generally they are ok as long as you are expecting a cheap supply. They are also really simple internally, so if it breaks you can fix it. Plus fixing it will teach you a lot about power supplies.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2015, 09:34:12 am
content: I got feedback from HYelec today on my questions:1. Our power supply support both 110V AC and 220V AC input, it's up to you.2. The HY3005S-3 is Analogue display just like the one in the attached picture.3. We perform debugging, quality inspection and aging test on the products before delivery.4. The power supply has CE, RoHS, ISO9001 and TUV certification.5. I only have photo of back for you now, but our power supply has been all over the world for many years and there's no customer complain that product's broken because of bad construction.6. We use several kinds of capacitors and the brand is Sanli.7. We are the original manufacturer of all the DC power supplies.In terms of certifications they seem to be good. They indicate they are the original manufacturer.This might explain why the Mastech, Dr Meter and Tekpower also start with HY in the model number.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2015, 10:59:46 am
content: The HY3005S-3 with analog meters is really nice and very affordable!http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/HYELEC-30V-DC-OUTPUT-LAB-POWER_324238486.html

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2015, 11:01:50 am
content: Quote from: pascal_sweden on April 21, 2015, 09:34:12 amI'd replace them after the warranty period.Quote from: pascal_sweden on April 21, 2015, 09:34:12 amPeakTech is rebadging those PSUs too.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2015, 07:15:08 am
content: Anybody out here with the "Dr Meter" HY3005F-3 power supply from Amazon?http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Meter%C2%AE-Triple-Linear-Alligator-Included/dp/B009622HC2What are your findings? Are the caps from a good brand?Are the readings accurate over the entire voltage/amp range?Are there spikes in output voltage when powering up, powering down, or when the relay switches to another secondary of the transfo?Are the dials 10 turns potentiometers?Is the internal of the housing coated or bare metal?I asked some questions to the poster of the YouTube video, but did not get any response yet:

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2015, 07:54:24 pm
content: Quote from: pascal_sweden on April 25, 2015, 07:15:08 amYou could also ask your questions on Amazon (here).

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2015, 08:13:37 pm
content: I just did, and actually managed to post all my questions in the limited text field spacehttp://www.amazon.com/readings-powering-switches-10-turn-potentiometer/forum/FxGANZCB7BBHTN/TxTHE8IDYNQ0G7/1/ref=cm_cd_ql_tlc_al?_encoding=UTF8&asin=B009622HC2

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2015, 09:34:24 pm
content: Quote from: pascal_sweden on April 25, 2015, 08:13:37 pmThose that have bought that unit will get an email notification to respond IME, so be patient. And hopefully some of them will reply with the answers you seek.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2015, 09:55:20 pm
content: Nice feature from Amazon! Didn't know it existed. Thanks for the hint!

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 11:13:21 pm
content: Several OEM power supplies are out there for the HY-3005F-3 power supply.Imagine that you could score the one in attachment! This would be a real collector's item

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 06:16:50 am
content: That's... Err... strange!

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2015, 07:24:22 am
content: I received confirmation in the mean time from HYelec that they are the original manufacturer of the OEM branded Dr Meter power supply.Did however not receive many feedback yet on my questions posted on Amazon to the other buyers of the Dr Meter HY3005F-3 power supply.These were my one-liner questions on AmazonCaps good brand? Good readings over full range? Spikes on output when powering up/down or relay switches? 10-turn potentiometer? Coated inside?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2015, 07:48:23 am
content: Quote from: pascal_sweden on May 01, 2015, 07:24:22 amI'd only wait through the weekend for answers if it were me (should make it ~ 1 week for owners that bought through Amazon to reply).Regarding the actual answers, I wouldn't expect too much though, as they're built to a budget (can fix most, if not all, of it's flaws shortly after the warranty expires though). They may be painted inside, so you may not have to do anything about that.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2015, 07:58:31 am
content: Let's say we ask the original manufacturer to build the same OEM power supply, but ask them to spec it with Nippon capacitors, 10-turn potentiometers, and properly test accuracy and make sure it does not spike. If the current price is around 150 USD, would that lead to 200 USD or 300 USD?Isn't the consumer willing to pay 50-100 USD more, if that would extend the life time from 1 to 15 year, and improve overall use?Why do Chinese manufacturers not think like this?When it comes up to their marketing they use the right words, such as ISO 9000, high-quality, robust design, but when it comes up to engineering, they only think short term, and don't take into consideration that everybody would be happier in the long run, if they just go for Nippon parts

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 01:48:52 am
content: Quote from: pascal_sweden on May 01, 2015, 07:58:31 amNope. A lot of people will buy the absolute cheapest thing they can get without much regard for quality. For example, see any of the multimeter threads on this forum. The company that builds things to a price point like this know their customer base and know that only being slightly better than another product won't get you more business if it comes in any more expensive.All that said, I love the cheap market for stuff like power supplies like this. I actually learned some stuff and had fun repairing it when mine stopped working. It's completely through hole parts analog and the schematics are online (sort of). It's kind of like the current hobbyist 3D printer market. If you want to spend most of your time actually printing things instead of trying to fix your printer it's probably better not to get the cheapest one... unless working ON your printer is something you enjoy doing then save some money on the hardware in exchange for your time.

author: JacquesBBB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 02:38:27 am
content: this PSU is probably the same as the one that is branded with a lot of different names.I have got a few of them in a dumpster for free, and had to fix them, salvaging parts from one to fix the others.I have seen a lot of various breakdown, and also some way to improve them.Here are some posts that will show you the inside and schematics (if this is actually the same).https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/tuning-a-ps23023-power-supply/msg530708/#msg530708https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/tracking-problem-in-a-dual-bench-power-supply/msg529140/#msg529140https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/changing-pots-to-multiturn-in-a-30v3a-psu/msg596332/#msg596332but the initial repairs do not appear here.Common breakdown :- the diodes of the rectifying bridge are too weak. They often short.- blown capacitors.- blown transistors.-blown segments of the display- blown display controller.All these are OK, but I had a very annoying breakdown once : They 5 V output suddenly went to 15 V !This is why, although I use them regularly, and will continue, as I have many of them, I do not recommendthem as a purchase. I would rather go for a good quality used one.

author: JacquesBBB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 03:26:27 am
content: In addition to previous post.I checked the schematics they are the same.Other breakdown :- defective relays- 7805 shorted- 7812 shorted- d313 transistor blown- defective opampOn the opposite, the power transistors 2N3055 were never faulty.There is also a mechanical problem. The body is metallic, except the front panel which is the weak point.There is a metal bar that is fixed on the front panel to maintain the displays. Very often, the screw holes on the panel will break as the plastic is too weak in these critical places. Then the displays are not hold any longer.

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 09:54:56 am
content: Interesting stats there. Sounds like under-engineering to me.Perhaps by coincidence, the 2n3055 has been the only transistor I seem to be unable to smoke. They just take anything.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 09:56:16 am
content: About the mechanics: I noticed that the design seems to be generic and that the manufacturer can decide to use 1 metal bar in the middle, or 2 metal bars on the left and the right. It would also be possible to use 3 metal bars, on the left, the middle and the right. But I guess they would never do this, because of cost. Still it is probably the only valid configuration in order to use the handle on the top to carry the power supply without bending the top cover.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 10:04:27 am
content: Thanks for this detailed overview of common breakdown issues on the HY3005F-3 power supply.I forwarded the breakdown issues to HYelec, the original manufacturer, and asked them to provide feedback. Will keep you posted about the feedback

author: JacquesBBB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 10:32:32 am
content: Let me be more precise about the major mechanical problem. It is not for the metal bars that hold the case together. Their attachment to the front panel are weak, but in general, it survives if you do not treat them too badly.The problem is with the display holder.I illustrate it with the following pics, as well as a pic of a bunch of spare parts, just for fun.Here is the way it should beThis is how it ends after a small bump or if you tighten too much the screw. Many of the PSU I recoverwere like that, at various extent. I can do a fix to that, but it would have been much better for the constructor to avoid this very weak point.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 10:35:14 am
content: Cool photo, where you zoom in on the actual problem, and where you can see a big Q.C quality control sticker above

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 10:56:06 am
content: Wow thats just terrible design. Children's toys are made better.

author: KD0RC
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 04:23:06 pm
content: So aside from poor mechanical design and possible QA issues, how does this supply perform electrically? Does it exhibit a spike on turn on like some of the other cheap supplies? Does it have any other characteristics that would make it unsuitable for hobbyist use (especially when working with various MCUs)?

author: JacquesBBB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2015, 10:42:52 am
content: Quote from: KD0RC on May 02, 2015, 04:23:06 pmI would say that this is OK for hobbyist use. I do not know about the spike on turn on, as- I always turn it on before pluging to a device.- I will be able to see if there is a spike only when I receive my new Rigol DS1054z.The ripple seems to be small but with spikes up to 77mV that may come from my measurement test leads.RMS ripple is 2.4 mV. (Tek TDS460a).CC is working as expected.The pots for voltage are too coarse for precise tuning on small voltages (under 5 V). I have improved it largelyby changing the pot to 10 turn pot (you may not want to do that on a new PSU).dual tracking is OK.As I already said, I had several for free. I learned a lot while fixing them, and its always nice to haveseveral items of the same kind so that at the end you learn much better the design.I have already given some to friends, as they are very useful, and much better than an ATX derived PSU,but if I were to buy a PSU,I would not buy this model or any of its clones, unless it is a real bargain price.

author: KD0RC
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2015, 02:27:52 pm
content: Thanks Jacques. My needs are very modest. I have been getting by with stealing power from other devices as I build things, but I really need a proper power supply. I usually spend a little more for better quality, but am having a hard time justifying spending very much on this piece of gear. Thanks again for your insight!Len

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2015, 08:09:40 am
content: If it's any consolation, I have a TTi and HP supplies lying around but I tend to use a bunch of AA batteries (from IKEA) in holder and a simple LM317 circuit or zener/resistor/transistor as a power supply most of the time. They fit in one of my plastic tubs better and take up less space. If your needs are modest then you can probably get by with such things fine. It's quite fun working with very little kit as well as it forces you to understand things.So bench PSU:1. 2 8xAA holsters.2. IKEA AA batteries. I bought 100 as they go in the kids toys as well.3. Couple of transistors. Generic NPN. Mine are BC337s. If they explode, use bigger ones.4. Zener kit from a supplier.5. LM317.6. Some 1n4148s to adjust zener breakdown.7. Normal carbon resistor kit.8. Couple of electrolytic caps.9. Few small high wattage resistors (I just bunch up some half watts) as current limiters/references.Does me well. I'd sell the PSUs but the niggling 'I might need them' turns up in my mind.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2015, 09:11:28 pm
content: Quote from: smjcuk on May 04, 2015, 08:09:40 amI read that you are using IKEA AA batteries in the kids toys. Do you mean the yellow Alkaline batteries from IKEA?Hereby want to warn you, and strongly disadvise you from using these batteries, especially in your children's toys.These batteries used to be produced in Germany by VARTA. Then they were good and reliable.But now they are produced in China, and they are very-very prone to leak.Some people claim that at least 1-2 out of 10 batteries will leak within 4-6 months.In my case I had an expensive universal remote with big touch screen that got broken by leaking IKEA batteries. The back of 2 batteries literally dissolved after only 5 months. They did not have any back anymore.. and leaked in excess.I thought that batteries at least can hold 1 year, and maybe could corrode a bit, but a back that is completely gone?My advise is to buy VARTA Lithium Ion AA batteries. They have a shelf life of 10 years.By definition Lithium Ion batteries are less prone to leak than Alkaline.Alkaline batteries are much more prone to leaking than Lithium Ion, and in case you use IKEAbatteries they will leak 100% for sure. Just a matter of months, not years.I would rather spend little more for a reliable battery. What's the point of buying 10 batteries at 2 euro, when it destroys valuable equipment, or is a hazard to your kids.I can't recall the URL anymore, but some people made a special website to ban IKEA from selling these cheap yellow Alkaline AA batteries. People can report issues on the site, and many people have destroyed cameras worth over thousands of euros because of these leaking crap batteries.There is also a Facebook page, which I found. It shows my pointhttps://www.facebook.com/IKEASingapore/posts/381195541957190

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2015, 07:11:22 am
content: Thanks for this warning. I've been using them for months with no problems yet. They don't get left in anything for more than a week or so (damn furbies). I wouldn't put them in anything I considered valuable. I've learned in the past not to trust alkalines. I have a selection of Sanyo Eneloop cells for that.They're mainly used as they have a relatively high current capacity (measured) and price for temporary high loads and then disposed of.As for leaking, they're no worse than duracells by the looks.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2015, 07:17:33 am
content: I should have taken a photo of the 2 batteries in my remote control.These were yellow IKEA Alkaline AA batteries. These 2 batteries did not have a back anymore.It was gone. Liquid just came out directly. Not leaking slightly, but like a river.You would never see that with Duracell.Anyhow, I just don't use Alkaline anymore. It isn't worth, and it can be such a mess.Here is what I recommend:http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/650841/Varta-Professional-Lithium-AA-Battery-2900mAh-x4-pcsThe Varta batteries are 10 euro for 4 pieces. The IKEA batteries are 2 euro for 10 pieces.But honestly, what is 5 euro (2 batteries) when it lasts for 1-2 years in a device.Divided by 12 or 24 months it's a rounding exercise

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2015, 09:37:08 am
content: I'm still angry at having to spend a week desoldering and replace 450 Varta memory backup packs after a couple of them exploded so I probably wouldn't buy anything from themI reckon the following should just apply:1. Don't leave primary cells in anything for a period of time.2. Use low self-discharge NiMh cells in anything else. Probably Sanyo Eneloops as they're not made by chumps.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2015, 04:48:12 pm
content: VARTA batteries are the best you can get!Or do you know a better brand that makes Lithium-Ion AA batteries?

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2015, 04:49:41 pm
content: Quote from: JacquesBBB on May 03, 2015, 10:42:52 amCan you provide your test results, once you have your Rigol scope? =)

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2015, 06:16:26 pm
content: Quote from: pascal_sweden on May 06, 2015, 04:48:12 pmI'm using Energizer e2 ones in my camera flash. Probably the same

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2015, 09:20:37 pm
content: Apparently there is a company called "Digimess" in the UK, that also offers these HY power supplies:http://www.digimessinstruments.co.uk/powersupplies/index.htmWhat a mess these Digi*mess* power supplies!

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2015, 09:24:03 pm
content: Digimess has been known as a turd vendor here for ages. Rebranded no name shit.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2015, 01:30:00 am
content: I have not received any feedback from HYelec anymore, after I provided an overview of the failing components in their PSU design. Or is there some holiday going on in China now? =)

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2015, 06:31:06 am
content: Fingers in ears holiday

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2015, 09:39:28 am
content: I have now received feedback from HYelec on my comments about failing components.Here is their feedback:--I've seen your comments on the website and the posted picture is not our products, but the outlooking looks similar, so the problems mentioned are not exist on our power supply. HY3005 is popular and I don't think customers want to buy it again if they reallyb find so many problems.--We do produce power supply for lots of comany overseas but not means all their DC power supplies are produced by us.--We accept custom design and OEM so some technical specification is required by the customer, if you want to use some components on the power supply, it is available.--Normally before a large order, customer will buy one sample to do the test and we like this way. It will help the customer to know our products better.--Not all the customer just want good quality and don't care about the price and material recently I received some inquiry from Turkey importers and they all told me the price is crazy after I sent them the quotaiton. Cause they can always get cheap price from other suppliers. They do not care about the quality and technical specification I'm talking about but only care the cheap price.--HYELEC is our own brand and you can compare the products on our websitewww.hy-elec.com

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2015, 07:19:29 pm
content: Anybody out here with more hands on experience on this power supply?