FLIR i5 MK1 teardown (same as i3, i5 & i7) by Fraser - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 07:40:17 pm
content: I recently bought a very nice FLIR i5 that has been well looked after. It's only flaw was a spec of dirt on the LCD panel.The time has come to remove that spec of dirt from the screen so it was time for a TeardownThe secret to getting into the cameras case was revealed by a fellow forum member, Pimpinge46, who confirmed my suspicion that two screws are hidden behind the label around the lens aperture.To disassemble the cameras case you need t first remove the label around the lens. To do this without destroying or creasing it you should use a hair dryer to warm it and soften the adhesive. The adhesive is a gel type with high tack so care is needed. Use a sharp tool to lift the outside edge of the label and slip a very thin pry tool under the label. Whilst blowing warm air on the label, slide the pry tool around the label to release it. When the label is completely released from the case, attach it to some non stick label backing paper.Behind the label you will find the two torx head screws that hold the case front trim in place. Remove them and lift the trim away. Behind the trim you will see two more torx head case screws. Remove these screws.The case is also secured by screws in the battery bay. One is visible whilst the other sits behind the top of the cameras ID label. This label may be heated and lifted with relative ease using a sharp knife and tweezers. Unscrew the screws in the battery bay. Place a non stick baking behind the ID label to stop it sticking back over the upper screw hole. The case may now be separated into two parts.The chassis and PCB securing screws are visible in my pictures. They are obvious and there is no difficulty in taking the chassis, PCB and LCD apart.FraserLet the pictures begin

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 07:41:23 pm
content: Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 07:42:58 pm
content: Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 07:44:38 pm
content: Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 07:46:23 pm
content: Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 07:48:27 pm
content: Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 07:51:50 pm
content: Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 08:00:49 pm
content: Images with lower compression

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 08:04:09 pm
content: Continued low compression images

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 08:08:10 pm
content: Continued low compression images

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 08:09:17 pm
content: Continued low compression images

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 08:10:37 pm
content: Continued low compression images

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 08:11:48 pm
content: Continued low compression images

author: TiN
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 08:17:21 pm
content: Thanks.What's the deal with little SOT23-6 on it's own little island? Looks neat.Internal temperature sensor for self-calibration?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 08:27:52 pm
content: TiN,Yes, as on the E4, it is an ambient temperature sensor. The cut out around that area of the PCB is thermal isolation from any conducted heat contamination.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 10:32:40 pm
content: Pimpinge46 has kindly supplied some pictures taken during his i3 camera teardown and offered them for inclusion in this thread.Here they are......

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 10:34:59 pm
content: Pimpinge46 camera PCB pictures. He has a 'not charging battery' problem that he is diagnosing at the moment.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 10:38:14 pm
content: To assist Pimpinge46 in his efforts to find his cameras charging fault, I sketched the DC input circuit and may as well include it here as well.

author: Uno winner
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 16, 2018, 08:50:12 am
content: HiHow can i hack flir i5 to capture video

author: cq-317
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2018, 01:13:54 pm
content: The hardware can't support capturing video!

author: Uno winner
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 16, 2018, 02:36:07 pm
content: can i connect it with usb and record video on pc ?

author: tonykids
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2018, 05:15:19 am
content: Can the sensor be used like lepton? to make a low-cost thermal camera.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2018, 06:06:33 pm
content: Sadly no. The i series use a microbolometer sensor array connected to the sensor drive and output processing electronics that are on a separate PCB.The Lepton is a self contained imaging CORE that is intended to easily interface to the outside world. A very different beast.A 'new' camera can be built using parts of the i series camera but it is generally more effort than it is worth.Fraser

author: dthayden
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2024, 09:14:41 pm
content: Long time Flir i7 owner, it died a decade or more ago and I'm lookin into the cause. Long story short, the pin of the charging receptacle was broken loose from the plastic housing and solder joint, prohibiting the external charger from charging the battery.Thinking back, this is consistent with the operation/charge issues I recall, that is the charger plug never felt great being plugged into the Flir i7 charge socket. Now that the center pin is loose, I find there is a ton of friction pushing it into the charger plug, leading me to believe the problem started with the hollow socket contact in the charger plug.Posting here in case someone has a part number and source for a new charger socket to solder onto the i7 PCB. I recall from years past looking at charger plug/sockets, there are tons of mechanical differences in addition to the outer shell and pin diameter. First task is to fine a new plug to splice into the charger lead. Then repair the PCB charge socket.