hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
AirPod teardown Video & Info - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2017, 11:50:54 pm
content: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/AirPods+Teardown/75578I thought there might be some interest on seeing this iFixit page with video, and written text, that includes some of the component parts numbers. This is microscope stuff, non of which I understand. However, what I do find interesting, is this is one of the few products that on the fixit site, rates a ZERO repairability rating, they had to cut it apart. But according to the Apple documents, they have a battery replacement plan for $49.00.New complete AirPods are $159.00. Out of warranty or lost buds or case, would cost $69.00 each.Since my curiosity is, does Apple have some secret sauce to replace batteries in either the case or buds, or more likely, they just give/charge you for a NEW replacement unit? Seems just labor costs alone would make any repair on these far too expensive.Regardless, if you like them or not, the miniaturization of this Bluetooth design and features is impressive!

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 04:10:50 am
content: Impressive planned obolescence.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2017, 10:17:26 pm
content: Interesting 93mWh battery inside the earbud (~24mAh).Reading some comments, if apple doesn't bother to repair ipads, for sure with these you would just get a new pair for $49.If its under warranty its $0, so they might want to test them in that case.

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2017, 11:20:34 pm
content: Quote from: thm_w on March 07, 2017, 10:17:26 pmAmazing energy management, to get 5 hours of music playback in such tiny batteries.
Mobile Win 10 computers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: paulcav
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 11:01:35 am
content: Kangaroo Mobile Desktop Pro KJ2B#T01-NA Intel Atom X5-Z8500 (1.44 GHz) 2 GB LPDDR3 32 GB eMMC Windows 10 Homeread more---------------------------------------------------LattePanda wants to put a Windows PC in your hands for $80Read more

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 12:19:42 pm
content: Yes, tablet hardware for a chinese desktop, which is only slightly more expensive than chinese a tablet. This can only succeed.
IBM 4764 FIPS140-2 Level 4 crypto module teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mjs
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2017, 08:44:41 pm
content: Hi,I took apart an IBM crypto module to see what kind of protection mechanisms there are. Here are the pics:https://flic.kr/s/aHskSaZ1FhI added some comments to the pics, but nothing too specific for now.
Battery Charger Recommendations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: IdahoMan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 07:51:49 pm
content: Are there any quality,accurate, and properly made battery chargers out there for charging all different battery types?Hobbiests speak highly of the Turnigy chargers, but is there a better? (Don't need any exotic bells&whistles like a USB computer connection or software)IM

author: kgharibyan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 08:22:07 pm
content: Hi, the isdt sc-608 is very nice and useful charger, better than turnigySent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 09:00:21 pm
content: I've got a Hyperion that's awesome but they aren't cheap. Got mine for almost nothing because it needed repair.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 09:29:18 pm
content: Quote from: IdahoMan on February 28, 2017, 07:51:49 pmDefine "all" above, or at least list down the types.If only AA,AAA NiMh/NiCD type and common 18650 LiIon type, then you will have plenty of choices.

author: LaurentR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 11:38:15 pm
content: And if you're looking for LiHV, Li-Po, Li-Fe, Li-Ion, Ni-MH, Ni-Cd, and PB, you'll find _a lot_ of options as this is covered by the RC (car/plane/helicopter) market, up to a certain number of cells (up to 6-8 usually).In that market, Turnigy is somewhat well known, but not nearly the most popular or cheapest or most featured.For instance, I have ahttps://www.amainhobbies.com/team-orion-advantage-touch-duo-vmax-ac-dc-charger-6s-10a-100w-x2-ori30298/p485240which I like due to its nice color LCD UI. 2 channels and 6S per channel.There are many, many other choices.Seehttps://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-car-battery-chargersfor a sample.If you have more details on what you are trying charge, how many simultaneously, how quickly, if you need a discharge or storage function, a simple UI... you'll get more specific recommendations.

author: anishkgt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2017, 02:05:36 pm
content: I use the icharger 401 duo. It is a good and popular brand.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

author: IdahoMan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2017, 11:40:46 pm
content: Any thoughts on theFMA PowerLab 6?QuoteYes, those are the main batteries I know of: Lithium, lead, and Ni.

author: anishkgt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2017, 05:20:53 am
content: Those are good too. 40A huge charging capacity. Remember to get a suitable power supply as these don't come with one and works only on DC power.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

author: anishkgt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2017, 05:22:02 am
content: Get two server power supplies, that should do it, maybe each rated for 700W.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Extech LCR200 vs Keysight U1731C - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: silverChar
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 02:07:46 pm
content: Hello,I am trying to decide between Extech LCR200 and Keysight U1731C LCR meter.I searched a lot but I did not manage to find comprehensive information.This posthttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/new-lcr-meter-from-extech-lcr200/msg78525/#msg78525hasn't had any new feed since 2011. In addition,you can findsome other inputs in other relative topics here and there, mostly for the front panel interface and not for measurements reliability.On the other hand in this post, Dave has done a nice teardown for U1733C model but I did not manage to find any reviews for U1731C model.I have dug into the user manuals of the two candidates and the basic differences are in testing frequencies, accuracy and DCR function.Extech LCR200:http://www.extech.com/resources/LCR200_UM.pdfTesting frequencies: 100Hz,120Hz,1kHz,10kHz,100kHzAccuracy: 0.5%+5counts (in most of ranges)DCR function availiableKeysight U1731C:http://eeshop.unl.edu/pdf/U1731_user_guide.pdfTesting frequencies: 100Hz,120Hz,1kHzAccuracy: up to 0.2%+3countsDCR function not availiableI am mostly interested in measurements for decoupling applications, e.g. capacitors above 1nF, small inductors above 10uH and ferrite beads.Assuming that,1. I am OK with theoretical accuracy of Extech LCR200,2. the lack of 10kHz and 100kHz testing frequencies of U1731C is not a serious problem as I am not interested in pF and in addition the uncertainty in these frequencies is significally increased,3. resolution (20000 counts in both) is a matter of range and not of testing frequency,4. and finally, as Dave has shown(21':15"), features in some cases are not as the vendor says (lack of resolution specified in manual).Which meter would you choose?I would also appreciate, if someone who has bought one of these two meters, put his opinion about meter's reliability?Thanks!
The Mooshimeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: anishkgt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 04:40:41 pm
content: Hi All,I was browsing for a multimeter as my existing Mastec 8268 turned out to be acting weird, came across the Mooshimeter used by a YouTube guy called Electro Boom. Seen herehttps://moosh.im/mooshimeter/. Has anybody or used it or maybe owned one. Maybe @Dave could give his review on this. A bit costly for an average user but seems to be a good one.

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 05:42:41 pm
content: Interesting, but could use some work on the interface (app). Looks kind of crude. Also the logging isn't all that useful with a 1 second minimum interval. A lot can happen in a second. If they make some tweaks it could be very promising.Hmm, after further reading in the specs section it's saying that it can log at 8kHz. Now I'm not sure what is right. In the FAQ it mentions a minimum logging interval of 1 second. Either way, interesting device.

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 06:42:16 pm
content: The mooshimeter is an excellent device for its intended purpose - remote measurement and logging.Seethis thread

author: artag
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 07:05:55 pm
content: I have one, I'm pleased with it.I used it recently to check some wiring : measuring resistance at the far end, watching on my phone to see what happened as I fiddled with the near end wires.The app is fine. It's slowly improving - I'd like to see the ability to fix graph scales (autoscale isn't always what you want). Doesn't need the appearance changing : it shows the values clearly and allows easy change to the parameters. Doesn't need some idiot graphics designed to mess it up.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2017, 04:53:09 am
content: I have one and it's a really good device. It does require a tablet or smartphone with Bluetooth 4.0 or newer. I think the best feature is the power measurement capability. The high dynamic range reduces the need to change range, making it excellent for testing microcontroller projects that vary in power draw - even something with a peak draw of a few A but a sleep current in the uA range can be dealt with ease.What I would really like to see is software support for using an external shunt or Hall probe in order to measure current greater than 10A or get sub uA resolution for those really low power microcontroller projects. Something else that would be nice would be a Python library that works with the standard Bluez stack instead of an oddball BLE debug dongle.
Anyone know of a teardown or review of JBC BT-2BWA? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Kuro
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2017, 05:54:14 pm
content: The JBC BT-2BWA is an analog-looking soldering station. It's probably not like the standard analog stations of old, since you can buy a programming device that can set the timeouts and temperatures of sleepmode etc. I'm curious how this looks inside, but I haven't found a review or teardown anywhere.It's not very common, since it's only built for a company in Germany (Weidinger) and few stores carry it. On the JBC site it's hard to find any data, and if you do it's under the 'discontinued' label.Has anyone seen any teardown pictures or reviews, or if you own one would you be willing to open it up and make some photos?
$11 - OrangePi Zero as linux-gpib server - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2017, 07:08:55 pm
content: I just got my $11 Orange Pi ZeroUltra small (46x46mm) Quad Core w. 512MB Ramhttps://www.zapals.com/orange-pi-zero-single-board-computer-512mb-development-board.htmlhttps://linux-sunxi.org/Xunlong_Orange_Pi_ZeroI decided to use Armbian , as the OrangePi OS'es apparently overheat , and generally are bad.https://docs.armbian.com/User-Guide_Getting-Started/The people at Armbian says that the onboard WiFi will never function decently (it's slow and looses the connection)But i see it as an ultra cheap RasPi clone , that packs some decent power.It's a headless unit , meaning no HDMI. So be prepared to use SSH.First task was to get linux-gpib to compile , but it failedCode:/opt/linux-gpib/drivers/gpib/tnt4882/mite.c:87:3: error: implicit declaration of function ‘pci_dev_get’ [-Werror=implicit-function-declaration]pci_dev_get(mite->pcidev);^cc1: some warnings being treated as errorsmake: *** [/opt/linux-gpib/drivers/gpib/tnt4882/mite.o] Error 1scripts/Makefile.build:307: recipe for target '/opt/linux-gpib/drivers/gpib/tnt4882/mite.o' failedmake: *** [/opt/linux-gpib/drivers/gpib/tnt4882] Error 2scripts/Makefile.build:443: recipe for target '/opt/linux-gpib/drivers/gpib/tnt4882' failedMakefile:1368: recipe for target '_module_/opt/linux-gpib/drivers/gpib' failedmake: *** [_module_/opt/linux-gpib/drivers/gpib] Error 2make: Leaving directory '/usr/src/linux-headers-3.4.113-sun8i'make: [all-local] Error 2 (ignored)Makefile:662: recipe for target 'all-local' failedIt complains in the NI PCI section of the drivers , and as there's no PCI slot on that mini board.I had no remorse about commenting out line 87 in /opt/linux-gpib/drivers/gpib/tnt4882/mite.cNow it builds w. probs.Remember to make your self a member of the gpib group , or the below test will failHere's a bried test of my Agilent USB-GPIB adapter & a K2015Code:___ ____ _ _____/ _ \ _ __ __ _ _ __ __ _ ___ | _ \(_) |__ /___ _ __ ___| | | | '__/ _` | '_ \ / _` |/ _ \ | |_) | | / // _ \ '__/ _ \| |_| | | | (_| | | | | (_| | __/ | __/| | / /| __/ | | (_) |\___/|_| \__,_|_| |_|\__, |\___| |_| |_| /____\___|_| \___/|___/Welcome to ARMBIAN 5.25 stable Debian GNU/Linux 8 (jessie) 3.4.113-sun8iSystem load: 0.04Up time: 5 minMemory usage: 10 % of 494MbIP: 192.168.1.138CPU temp: 55°CUsage of /: 6% of 30GLast login: Thu Feb 23 19:35:57 2017 from x200-1.luna-lan.orgbingo@opz1:~$ ./idn1.pyKEITHLEY INSTRUMENTS INC.,MODEL 2015,1043877,B15 /A02bingo@opz1:~$I have attached a "hacked version" of Plesa's raspberry install scripthttps://github.com/PlesaEEVBlog/RPi_LogNut.githttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/metrology/raspberry-pi23-logging-platform-for-voltnuts/msg1135081/#msg1135081Neat little device for $11It seemed like the "automatic resize on first boot" of the SD card didn't workI mounted the card in my laptop linux and resized it w. gparted , now the filesystem is 32GB , as the card./Bingo
Hakko FX-951 or FX-888 Fake - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jaimelaborda
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 13, 2017, 10:34:33 pm
content: I have been searching for my first soldering station for a while finsing a substitute for my pencil iron JBC ST30 that I just love it. But I'm actually want something more profesional that let me adjust the temperature of the tip.I have taken a look to some cheapy fake Hakko solering station, for instance the FX-951 from Aliexpress, that is the exact same model of the original but without the sleep funcion. Another alternative is the Hakko 888D (loved by Dave) but I thing that for the price I have found it is also a fake unit. I attach the links.https://es.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-EU-plug-HAKKO-FX-951-fx951-Digital-Soldering-Station-Solder-Electric-Soldering-Irons-110V/32326605233.html?spm=2114.13010308.0.0.Dqz771https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/New-70W-110V-220V-HAKKO-FX-888D-fx888-888-Solder-Soldering-Iron-Station-with-Digital-Display/404182_32248342155.html?spm=2114.04010208.3.105.uEgobu&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10000073_10068_10000074_10000032_119_10000030_10000026_10000023_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_301_10059_10099_10000020_10000013_10103_10102_10000016_10096_10000056_10000059_10109_10052_10053_10107_10050_10106_10051_10000097_10000094_10000053_10000007_10000050_10084_10083_10000100_10080_10000047_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10115_10037_10033_10000041_10000044_10078_10079_10077_10000038_10073_10000035_10122_10121,searchweb201603_3,afswitch_1,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_3_default&btsid=69d00e53-ac28-441c-9102-3c7f72dad7c7What you recommend me? There is a better option? I have a limited budget of maximum 100€/usd.Thanks, guys!

author: RayRay
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2017, 11:10:40 pm
content: Given the price, I'd say both are 100% fake!However, you can get a real FX888 from batterfly if you wish:http://www.batterfly.com/shop/hakko_fx-888dMy advice though, go with the Bakon BK950D:http://www.gearbest.com/soldering-supplies/pp_363024.html?wid=21You could also get spare tips from banggood:http://www.banggood.com/search/t12-tip.htmlVery affordable overall.
What is inside a Nokia charging pad ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kultakala
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2017, 09:07:26 pm
content: Hi,I will not call this a teardown, although it probably is kind of one.A few years ago i got my first mobile/cell phone with wireless charging.It was a nokia phone and when they brought out the new chargers with notification led light i bought a few of them.There were three colors, white, green and orange... i went for the orange ones.The model number is DT-903.The Microsoft DT-904 is the successor, its available only in white at this time and i guess beside the microsoft logo its identical (?).Unfortunately one of my chargers stopped working. When charging it stops after a few minutes and starts blinking only.Maybe it would be possible to fix it, but... i decided to tear it down and have a look inside :-)Many chargers are advertised that they have 2 or 3 coils... the DT-903 charges very well.You can put the phone where you want, it always charged with very good power.When measuring the input to a usb charger it shows about 9 to 10 Watts.So, here are the pictures:First from outside...With light while charging my Microsoft Lumia 950 XLTwo luminated devicesCaseless with lightUpper side... and it has 5 coils !PCB side...I uploaded a high res photo but its only visible in smaller resolution... Hmmm...
Accuvein - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rollatorwieltje
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 12, 2017, 09:53:46 pm
content: Saw this on Reddit. I first thought it was another shitty kickstarter, but this device really exists. I wonder how this thing works? Looks like it has 2 camera modules and a laser projector, but I wonder what those camera modules are? There's also almost no noticeable delay on the projected image either, so I doubt it's a thermal camera?Can't comment on how useful it is, but it does look interesting.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2017, 10:04:41 pm
content: These have been around for years but were normally much less portable. I almost bought a desk mounted unit a couple of years ago but had no use for it.They use the unique response of veins to NIR light. The cameras detect the reflected NIR and the required overlay is projected onto the subject,An article explains a little about the newer devices here:https://www.cnet.com/news/near-infrared-makes-veins-easier-to-find/Ultrasonics are used for positioning needles etc in veins and joints but that method requires the sensor head to be in contact with the patient. That is often laptop sized these days.Fraser

author: vinny
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 13, 2017, 02:58:26 am
content: The device from the original post uses a laser camera. Here's a simple explainer:

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2017, 03:23:14 am
content: I sometimes wonder about the wisdom of these kinds of deskilling devices. They allow phlebotomy to be performed by less-experienced staff, but wouldn't the cost of the device be more wisely invested in training and retaining that staff? There are also aspects to the procedure that are not addressed by the technology. Peripheral veins have check valves inside them, and needle entry into one of those valves can damage the vein. The way valves are found manually (tapping and squeezing) does not translate to an invisible beam.

author: vinny
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 13, 2017, 03:32:46 am
content: About half of peds and a third of adults require multiple sticks. Extra info can bridge the gap. Reliably finding valves by touch is a specialty skill. With visualization you can wipe (empty) the vein to locate valves visually. You can see the "wipe" at around 0:16.
Ersa I-CON PICO Error 8 (heating element defect) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Creep
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2014, 09:01:51 pm
content: Hello. About a month ago I purchased a used Ersa I-Con PICO from a fellow forum member. Tried it a couple of times after purchase to see if everything was working properly and then set it aside for about 2 weeks. When I finally put it to work again, it seems to bark an Error 8 message and shut down from time to time. After pressing any of the buttons, the error goes away and the iron starts the heatup process again. At first it seemed very rare (maybe once during 30 minutes of work). At the time I though nothing of it as it didn't affect working with it. However it seems to have become worse and on some occasions it has died on me twice in a single minute. After a bit of digging around I found that the error means "Heating element defect".Does anyone have any clue what might be causing it and what to look for? And if the heating element acually has to be replaced, where can I get spare parts for it?Thanks, any help will be greatly appreciated.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2014, 08:38:48 am
content: at first you can try to reinsert the connector, if it solves it then its fine, otherwise its a handtool replacement if its not the catridge type heater element which integrated with the tip like the jbc or the weller wrmp pencils

author: Creep
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:41:50 pm
content: Hadn't had the need for the iron for a while, but today I did. Took the iron itself apart (which basicly means removed the "cartridge" heating element). Couldn't see a fault anywhere, so pushed the heating element back in (applying a reasonable amount of force) and tried powering on the iron again.As luck would have it, seems like that did the trick and didn't see the error message at all today.I wonder what the problem was. A poor connection somewhere perhaps?

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:49:24 pm
content: Quote from: Creep on October 17, 2014, 08:41:50 pmyeah it happened with my weller wrmp pencil and its uses a modified 3.5mm audio jack

author: De
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2017, 05:19:57 pm
content: Purchased mine today.It's a preownerd item but was rarely used, by the previous owner.Had the same error popped up on the screen!It seems like the error on mine appeared after the standby mode. But i have unplugged and plugged both the heating element and the soldering iron and it seems like it has fixed the problem for now.Otherwise almost $100 for a new heating element.

author: sersher
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 12, 2017, 02:21:39 pm
content: In my case, the cause was a faulty triac T25CQ6F SANREX (TMG25CQ60F). Possible replacement is BTA24-800BWRG or BTA24-600CWRG. Problem solved.http://forum.vegalab.ru/showthread.php?t=49572&p=1756082&viewfull=1#post1756082
AliExpress Scores - The "whats good" reporting thread - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: garboui
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2017, 01:18:48 am
content: What have you scored there that was good? We all know what to expect when it comes to SBC's, irons and suck but lets hear about all the low hanging gold. I'm talking about things like test leads (there's got to be some good between all the throw away china leads), small tools, peripherals and such.I haven't received anything elec related yet. Recently I did get a Type-c to hdmi and USB3 adapter. Works great for the $13 it was and the build quality is decent enough. Besides a little glue residue and rough edges at the ends its like an old ipod mini in construction.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UBS-3-1-Type-C-to-4K-HDMI-3-in-1-Converter-USB-3-0-HUB/32735954925.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.ruQm6d
Need a Cheap Man's Guide to buying ESD Bins - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cidcorp
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 19, 2017, 06:44:32 pm
content: I browsed the forums on threads relating to ESD Conductive Bins in hopes I would find a cheap source of them. Wondering if anyone out there hasany suggestions on where to find 'reasonably' priced ESD Conductive Cardboard -or- Plastic Parts Bins. I need the small size ones (typically black), for dividing partson hand soldering jobs. I'm trying to avoid minimum purchases of QTY>20.Anybody able to point me in the general direction would be greatly appreciated.I've sourced from Uline.ca (I'm in Canada) before and typically use Digikey.ca for anything I need but from what I can tell Digi doesn't sell these parts bins (at least I wasn't able to find them).

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2017, 11:57:33 pm
content: https://www.uline.ca/BL_332/Conductive-Corrugated-Bins?keywords=ESD%20Boxhttps://www.uline.ca/BL_308/Conductive-Bins?keywords=ESD%20Boxhttps://www.adafruit.com/products/430https://www.mcmaster.com/#static-control-bins/=16fxs6hYes uline has min quantity, but you didn't give a budget.

author: cidcorp
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 21, 2017, 01:34:15 am
content: I guess I was trying to say that the ULINE pricing was acceptable, but I didn't want to be buying 20 to 25 of them. I only needed around 10, could stretch to 15, andI was looking for singles sold for that pricing or better. I'm pretty strapped for space here and although having the extras on a shelf would be helpful, they would takespace I simply don't have.Thanks for the links wasn't even thinking of the small SMD type bins... The adafruit link helps.Appreciated.
GJ8081 portable hot air rework guns - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: HwAoRrDk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2017, 07:03:42 pm
content: Does anyone have, or has used, one of these portable hot air rework guns? They appear to be sold under the title 'GONGJUE 8081', 'GJ8081', '8081LCD', or simply 'LCD Hot Air Gun'. I was looking at getting a cheap hot air rework station, and these things caught my eye. Would be a lot more convenient for something that would only get occasional use, and can be easily put away in a drawer/cupboard or wherever after use, unlike a bulky desktop station.They appear to be as ubiquitous as the 858D station on eBay, AliExpress, etc. and are similarly priced too. Available in both 110V and 220V too.I found alisting on AliExpressthat was also selling the component parts - heating element, PCB, nozzles - which had some fairly detailed pictures of the PCB. Would like to know what others think. To my eyes, doesn't looktoobad, although the way in which they trim down the tab of that TO220 and the heat sink is bit rough!

author: RayRay
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2017, 07:39:39 pm
content: Can't say I've used it, but if you ask me, if you want a portable hot air station, I'd say the 8858 (Made by both Saike & Yihua) would be a good choice.
American Optical Model 1810 (upside-down microscope) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: metrologist
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2017, 04:39:09 pm
content: Just got one, don't know how to use it. It is missing the light and condenser pieces that go above the stage. I tried shining a light from above and below, but could not get anything to focus. Maybe the powers are higher than I am expecting.Does an instrument like this have any utility for looking at non-opaque physical objects? I see a few for sale, but I do not believe they really sell at all, so I presume there is no real or very little monetary value of this instrument. Is there anything there for scrap?I think the eyepieces will fit on my Bausch and Lomb bench scope, but they are a slight different design and the ones I have are original and in OK condition. I think both sets are 10x.Otherwise, I'm about to just toss this in the trash.
stepper motor or serve motor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: poornakumar
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 05:14:32 am
content: please help me find the right component!

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 06:43:37 am
content: Do you need to know the absolute or relative position of the motor? I assume you don't since you want continuous rotation.You can get continuous rotation servos quite cheap. (hobbyking etc.)You drive them with a typical RC servo signal but the signal sets the speed, in either direction, instead of the position like a normal servo.(Technically they're not a servos because they have no feedback, but they're still sold as a servo)

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 10:21:45 am
content: Just get a standard DC motor if you don't need positioning...

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 10:34:31 am
content: If he needs gearing then a continuous rotation servo is much simpler since it already has all that built in.But if he wants it to be simple to drive a DC motor is easier than a servo which needs a mcu or something to generate the pulses.

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 11:34:41 am
content: Some context would help.What will the motor be used for? What size load will it be handling?

author: hackertom
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 10:58:00 am
content: http://www.batterfly.com/This site sells original Hakko stations or not?
SL2020 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ramonest
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2017, 10:49:55 am
content: I was looking for a decent Soldering Iron, requisits were to be light (I will probably have to bring it to the university), decent quality, and not too expensive.Up until now I did my soldering with an old verision of the JBC 14ST, and since it's not powerful enough for some applications i also have a chap high wattage chinese soldering iron, but if you keep it running for too long it will start burning things it should not.I really love the JBC when it comes to soldering small things with little heat dissipation, so i looked for a new and more powerfull one to substitute the chineese crap, I had already discarted it being temperature controlled, since I wanted it light but I found the SL2020. It has a wide range of tips (shares tips with the 30ST and 40ST series) 40W to maintain the heat at air temperature and up to 200W when useing it. It has no station (like a pencil type) with the temperature control on the handle.All I could find abot this soldering iron is from 2014 and not any review or people saying they have and that it works fine. So if someone has it and is willing to share the experience I would apreciate it, if the teperature controll works fine and has no major flaw it would be perfect for me.Also if someone happens to know a similar option form a fiable brand I'm more than willing to hear it.And finally if I decide to buy it I'll share my thoughts abot it, I'm no expert but I've been doing small things and repairs for a long time.Tanks.

author: RayRay
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 12:56:31 pm
content: I'd recommend you get the Bakon 950D:http://www.gearbest.com/soldering-supplies/pp_363024.html?wid=21You could also get spare tips from BG:http://www.banggood.com/search/t12-tip.htmlOverall, it answers all of your requirements, reasonably priced and portable.And it has tons of positive reviews as well!

author: ramonest
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 04:19:25 pm
content: Thanks, it seems a decent alternative. But I got interested in it for a project for a subject at the uni. Is there some info on the tips? I'm guessing it's relatively easy to drive and sense the temperature. Do you have any source where I can know the pins, resistance, sensor...etc.?Tanks a lot.

author: RayRay
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 10:26:49 pm
content: Well, you could have a look here:https://www.hakko.com/english/maintenance/topic_hakko_fm202_use.htmlBut basically, T12 tips have both the heating element & sensor integrated onto the tip itself, so you have no reason to worry about it.Also, you could optionally get the TM902C (digital thermometer) and the PK1000 thermocouple (if you wanna calibrate it)
Taking apart and cleaning my 10+year PS3 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: norEL
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 12:37:20 pm
content: My playstation 3 started to get very hot and performed bad, so took it apart an dust cleaned it for the first time after ten years of ownership!Fast FWD video.https://youtu.be/B5zXHlJEknI
858D Hot Air - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: hpmaxim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2017, 01:29:40 am
content: Feel free to shoot me for starting a new thread or not reading the one post in another. After reading through the threads it seems that the internal guts of the 858D seem to vary significantly from one unit to another, including different MCUs and different board designs.I'm thinking of buying one. I'd like to buy one that meets the following criteria:1) US plug/120V2) Constructed properly (fuse on 'hot' line, and proper ground), and good construction practices -- I can probably fix any thing, and I know enough to double check all the grounds and the fuse -- but I'd prefer to not have it die because of a wire broke and then it over heated and caught on fire because a wire was badly run and mechanically stressed.3) AVR MCU -- It'd be nice to be able to hack it, since it appears there are significant improvements available, but it appears there are options even for the non-AVR ones. Also, does any one know if different MCUs have different performance since presumably their firmwares aren't identical.I was under the impression the YouTue 858D+ is the best bet, until early in 2016, but a year later not so much. The Yihua units seem to have collected a bad rap. There are a host of these units on eBay for around $30 (shipped, oddly, from the US), including a couple unbranded one, Ansai, Gaoyue (its yellow!), Yihau, Youyue, Uyue, WEP.

author: WaveyDipole
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 05:18:12 pm
content: I recently purchased what I thought was an unbranded 'generic' 858D from Amazon but there is a small HK logo on it with the name HiYLKKO. My understanding was that these all come from the same outlet in Shenzen or wherever, so its interesting to note that there are subtle differences. Perhaps there are a number of far east outfits making them to the same spec/design more or less. This unit did have a number of the issues that had been previously noted:1. 13A fuse in plug2. Case was not earthed3. Fuse was on the neutral rather than live sideThere seemed to be no issues with short or stressed wires, although about 6in of mains flex was still in the case and the cable didn't reach the floor from my desk! I was able to extract a further 4-5in of cable which allowed the flex to reach the 4-way. After that, having corrected all of the above I tried it out using the medium size nose. I had an old SMD board to practice on and found much easier to remove components cleanly with this than messing around and really struggling with a soldering iron. I can't comment on the 120v aspect as I'm in the UK where we have 230/240v mains, but am pleased with the purchase. Only time will tell how long it lasts.
852D+ heater element replacement help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: diyme
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 02:44:08 am
content: So here's the run down, I purchased a rework/soldering iron station off eBay years ago. Believe it's a cheap Chinese knock off labeled CE 852D+Recently the heater element for soldering iron went bad. Bought what I thought would be an exact replacement but it was slightly longer. Original on topTried installing and this was the resultI tested it and it seems to work fine in terms of heating up and detecting the temp setting. I'm wondering if I alter the little indents on the bottom that seat into the soldering iron PCB so it recesses just enough to fit flush, if it would be safe to use?I also noticed writing on the iron handle that faded and all I can make out is "907" and the last letter I think was an "A"Soldering iron PCB has a YH936B-5 marking on itShould I be looking for a heater element for a 907A instead of the station 852D+?Here's the exact listing that I purchased the heater elements fromhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/161568266487

author: diyme
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 03:32:20 pm
content: Had someone with a 907a iron measure heater resistances for meHeater - 14.4 ohmsSensor - 1.0 ohmsMy replacements measureHeater - 14.6 ohmsSensor - .8 ohmsSo close enough. What I ended up doing was trimming the holder slots on the iron PCB so heater sits recessed as needed.
LiteFuze LT-2000 "Step Up&Down Transformer" teardown (Dangerous?) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sequoia
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 07:53:37 am
content: While looking for decent step-up transformer to power some European (240VAC) equipment from 120VAC, I came across this beauty:LiteFuze LT-2000 (apparently sold under various brands with same model "LT-2000")Unit supposedly handles 2000W, but taking look at the back of the unit and there seems to be already a problem.Input is IEC C14 socket (max 10A) and power switch is 20A thermal magnetic circuit breaker! But rather novel idea to use circuit breaker as on/off switch...Further look inside and seems like the thermal (pop-up) fuse/breaker for "AC 110-120V" is rated for 20A, while for "AC 220-240V" there is separate 10A breaker.Seems like several issues with this design (?):240V input/mode:- 10A breaker allows over-loading the (2000W rated) transformer ?- 120V load could pull more than the 15A that the NEMA5-15 socket is rated ?120V input/mode:- 20A breaker allows over twice the rated current (10A) of IEC C14 socket ?- 20A breaker allows over-loading the (2000W rated) transformer ?Other problems??? (see attached schematic below)Seems like instead of promised 2000W, this might be "safe" to about 1200W if first replace the thermal (pop-up button) 20A/10A breakers with 10A/5A ones (for 120/240VAC) ?Thermo magnetic breaker that is used as "power switch" only (?) should be fine left as 20A (but obviously wouldnt hurt replacing it with 10A one)?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 03:18:04 am
content: The transformer might be able to handle more than 2kW for moderately short periods of time.
Souer car battery charger - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Benik3
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2017, 10:33:07 am
content: Hello.Does anybody have experiences with this chinese car battery charger named Souer?http://www.ebay.com/itm/Souer-Genuine-12V-6A-Smart-Car-Motorcycle-Battery-Charger-LCD-Display-/322153443217There are 2 types: SON-1206D (6A charging current) and SON-1210D+ (10A).I'm wondering, what is inside.Thank you

author: sdttn
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2017, 11:24:14 am
content: You can ask the seller for pictures.

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2017, 01:39:19 pm
content: A laptop type power supply which is current limited. In any charging, the max battery current will be limited by what the supply can furnish. At some voltage the current will start to drop till it reaches a maximum voltage. Then it drops the supply voltage to float so the charger can be left on forever. Not that smart. The only difference in operation between that and a transformer diode type is the last stage. The switching supply is like any other, just that it can change voltage in the end.

author: Benik3
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2017, 01:48:22 pm
content: Yes, I know what is this 3 phase chargingAs you said, compared to classic trafo+diode is the floating charging, which is good because you can leave the battery on the charger for longer time without damage (e.g. if the charging finish when I will be at work or during night).I will probably buy it anyway and then put here some picture, if there is nobody with something against this charger
JBC DI2850 - Language query - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mattbrockuk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2017, 11:13:57 am
content: Hi guysDoes anyone know if its possible to change the UI language of the DI2850 base station? I bought a german one without thinking, and whilst useable, it would be nicer if the menus etc.. were in my mothers tongue.Thanks in advanceMatt

author: Frost
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2017, 06:00:17 pm
content: Quote from: mattbrockuk on January 20, 2017, 11:13:57 amThe manual shows the process on page 6Hold select for 3 seconds then select the "Change Station Parameters" menuin german "Aendern der Einstellungen", "Einstellungen anpassen" ...then push select again and you should see the language setting page"Spracheinstellung"

author: mattbrockuk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 03:45:47 pm
content: Thanks for that, I missed it :-)
IKEA Vinninge AAA/AA battery charger teardown & Reverse engineering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sdttn
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2017, 05:57:49 pm
content: HKJmadea great reviewof this charger.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2017, 06:17:35 pm
content: "This guy", HKJ, is a member here.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/profile/?u=24271

author: mmagin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2017, 10:45:38 pm
content: Interesting that it's mostly surface mount, but wave soldered. (I say this because of the red adhesive)

author: slicendice
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2017, 10:41:53 am
content: LOL, that is one ugly looking PCB. Typical IKEA electronics quality.

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2017, 11:48:31 am
content: Quote from: slicendice on January 13, 2017, 10:41:53 amThat's actually good looking for it being built down to a price.No complaints here.

author: LaurentR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2017, 11:08:02 pm
content: What's with the ladders of series/parallel resistors on the sides. Is it done this way for thermal dissipation purposes?
nikon D3/D3s hot shoe screw loose-need to dissasemble. back focus nikon software - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: super steel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 12, 2017, 07:20:47 am
content: I came here because of this posthttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/nikon-d3-dslr-partial-teardown-and-attempt-of-repair/25/last year I payed for a hot shoe repair. the hot shoe became loose on one side. I went back to the lab they said "you work with the camera, it happens, pay up" I also relaized 2 screws were missing from the bottom at the rear bottom left and right panel near the corners of the body. they installed 2 screws "on the house" WOW! now I can sleep well.I dont want to pay up. not sure how much warranty there is but this is not something that should happen, even for a pro photographer. the camera is a d3s btw.I saw this videoI will do the repair to tighten the screw/s myself. my question are1-in the video, he removed the back panel first. is this necessary to remove the top part/hot shoe?2-I counted 6 screws around the body just to remove the top plate, yes?3-having a problem with lenses reading error with it not reading aperture. if I twist the lens slightly it will register and shoot fine. the guy said aperture mechanism isnt reading the lens to be "stopped down"first time here. not sure if someone can help. any help, much appreciated.if someone can recommend a video for a top plate teardown or even fixing aperture mechanism, I would extremely appreciate it (d3/d3s mostly the same-I have both)as well Im wondering where one could fix a back focus issue with some software. I also payed the lab to repair that. it came back 6 months later. I work with this cameras and quite a poor photographer so dont have extra money to throw for the same repair. or any repair really. I biughgt both cameras after massive use and replaced shutters/mirrors/aperture mechanismscheers everyone

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2017, 03:18:17 am
content: The D3 service manual is available:http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1253752
Stanford Research SIM965 ANALOG FILTER - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: XZ19921230
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 01:04:37 pm
content: In 2011, we purchased SIM series products, including SIM970, SIM965, SIM980, SIM983. But for some reason, these products paper version of the Service Manual is missing, the recent need to check the relevant information, but the official online Service Manual is not complete, no circuit schematic diagram, whocan provide paper Version of the Service Manual and the last page of the schematic. Thank you
Original Designing Competition for TS100 Soldering Iron T1 Port - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MiniWare
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2017, 07:14:04 am
content: Hey there everyone!The TS100 Soldering's manufacturers now have a design competition, to design TS100 accessories, looks cool.Anyone interested?links:http://minidso.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=1563
Desoldering tweezers for Weller WESD51? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2016, 04:18:04 pm
content: I'm in the market for some soldering tweezers. The use-case is to perform mods during production.My electronics have been designed to be flexible to be able to interface with a variety of external sensors and misc equipment. These tend to use different voltage levels and interfaces. So the circuit boards can be modded by changing a resistor value or populating/de-populating a sense resistor to put the firmware into different modes.I've seen on the newer WX and WT series there seems to be tweezers that you can just plug into the stand, does anyone know of one that would work with a WESD51?I've seen these and the connector looks the same.http://www.ebay.com/itm/WELLER-T0051317199-WTA50-TWEEZERS-SMD-DESOLDERING-/272464005826?hash=item3f701ecac2:g:u~gAAOSw3mpXMj4qNow, using tweezers isn't a requirement but I felt it would be more "idiot proof" to just instruct the technicians to pluck the resistor off with tool A and populate new resistor with tool B. It could be done using a fat screwdriver tip on a second iron but felt tweezers would require less finesse.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2016, 06:25:43 am
content: Sorry to add opinion that doesn't answer your question:BR tipKnife tip2.5 mm bevel tip............screwdriver tip.........bottom of the list:hot tweezers

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2017, 08:54:42 pm
content: Quote from: evb149 on December 30, 2016, 02:12:31 amVolume isn't enormous as we'd likely only need 250 units of this board a year. However, out of this 250 would be 140 of one configuration, 100 of another, and 10 of a third. If it's just a resistor swap it's something that a technician would have no problem doing within a couple minutes and it would allow me to jump up to the next volume discount.I'm mainly concerned with the higher cost of the 5 units a year. Those get real expensive per unit and put a real dent into the profit margin.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2017, 09:53:21 pm
content: It doesn't look like it.According to Weller, the WTA50 works with the WD 1, WD 2, WD 1M, PUD 81, PUD 151, PU 81, WR3M, WR 2, and WAD 101 (what they term as Silver Series).It may be modifiable though (think the pin-out is different). Silver series is also higher power (80W).