Cheapest heat gun solution? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kalel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2017, 12:07:30 am
content: I'm researching on the cheapest usable heat gun solution. I don't have one yet, and I don't plan to get one for now, as I'm not working often with tiny SMD parts that are impossible with a soldering iron (I even avoid SMD at all as much as possible). But at some point one might be needed.So far, I've found:-Heat guns meant for paint removal($15-20), the cheapest ones seem to have 2 profiles, one at around 3xx degrees, and the other at around 5xx degrees, and come with a few nozzles. Most are for paint removal, only one is for concentrating air.Important questions: Would these temperatures be usable, and do you think custom nozzles could be added?This is how the nozzles look:And this is a "standard" (perhaps) paint heat gun:The nozzles that come with it are different, but would the ones aimed at heat gun stations (the first image) be attachable by any chance?Starting from $30-40 (about double the price), there are some Chinese stations available as well as those "integrated" heat guns that have controls on-board and no station.What are your experiences and recommendations?

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2017, 12:15:24 am
content: As well as a reasonably well equipped set of Wellers, I also use an “898D” station almost on a daily basis, and have had it for about seven years. It includes a temperature controlled iron too that takes Hakko bits. I thoroughly recommend them. They usually come with a selection of bits and nozzles.Mine was an Aoyue 898D but there are many other names. The 898D model though seems pretty common.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2017, 12:36:09 am
content: Paint removal guns are usually unregulated and far too hot for SMD work.

author: kalel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2017, 12:58:27 am
content: Quote from: amyk on November 06, 2017, 12:36:09 amThey also seem chunkier (larger) than the SMD ones. But as far as temperatures, checking some of the cheapest models, they specify 2 temperatures, usually around 300 and 500 degrees C (with some 20-30 deg variation between models). I don't know if those temperatures can be used, as well as what the real temperatures would be (if it's a PTC element we can hopefully expect something near the stated value at some distance?).

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 06, 2017, 01:18:38 am
content: They don't have any temperature regulation. You just switch on/off part of the heater. All you can do with paint removing heat gun is burn pcb and blow off components. And you need not only temperature regulation but airflow regulation as well.

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2017, 01:19:18 am
content: Quote from: kalel on November 06, 2017, 12:58:27 amI think you missed the "unregulated" part of the above quote. They usually have a couple of nominal temperatures which are completely unregulated and set by power through the element and airflow. It could easily be +/- a hundred degrees or so in the right/wrong circumstances. They also move a massive amount of air compared to an SMD heat gun.I have a Aoyue 968. I guess I've used it about 3 times in the last 5 years for SMD component removal (usually >44 pin TQFP), but it has seen a *lot* of use for heatshrink and also HDPE plastic welding. It's nice to have though when you do need to get one of those bigger chips off a board or use for a bit of pre-heat for those large ground planes.

author: kalel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2017, 03:32:19 am
content: Thanks, I'm fairly convinced about the paint heat guns (the shape isn't great either). What are some of the cheapest useful options out there that you know of? As basic as possible is fine.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2017, 08:13:10 pm
content: Many paint guns have variable power, using a dial/pot. And contrary to a soldering iron, a hot air gun has a constant thermal load on it, which is whatever volume of air you happen to have it set to and the temperature/humidity of ambient air (which is close enough to a constant). Once it reaches steady state, it shouldn't drift all that much, IMO.But the airflow is what often has only 1 or 2 settings. And I don't think you're going to be able to fit any of the smaller nozzles on a regular heatgun, unless you rig up an adapter. And it might not work very well (nor very long) at very restricted air flow.And an 858 is about 30.00.So I think a hot air gun might be viable as a board preheater, once you rig up a fixture and figure out what settings to use. But good luck beating 858 on cost and utility for precision work.

author: kalel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2017, 06:50:37 pm
content: I made a quick eBay search (not purchasing yet, just interested in the market as is now, so obviously things can change):This is probably the cheapest option:But other than being possibly difficult to repair (comparing to station type where you can change the entire heat gun if needed),the one review I saw about it on YT mentioned that the adapter overheats. On the image it says "power 450W" which seems quite high for such an adapter". The unit does work decently though, but I imagine it's not so easy (or cheap) to exchange that with a suitable power supply.Step up, there's this (Model:GJ8018LCD)$22 + ~10 shipping. I haven't seen any reviews, it might be better quality than the previous one, or it might not.Starting from 55-60 there's the 868D which should work fine (I didn't search for long, there could be a better price).There are of course other models that are more expensive, but those models wouldn't be the cheapest solution.

author: ChrisLX200
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 07, 2017, 07:05:49 pm
content: I got one of those and it works well - albeit temperature control is tricky (there are no fixed temperatures, just a linear pot to control it - and the airflow directly affects temperature of the air outside of control by the pot). It's also a bit clumsy with all the bulk of the heater, fan, etc in your hand. I use mine attached to a flexible arm and it works better like that. You also need to be careful to switch off the heat but leave the air running to cool it rather than just powering off the device. That means you cannot leave it at any particular setting ready to use and must readjust each time. Other than that it has been working reliably for a couple of years and I've stripped many PCBs with it, and soldered a fair few discrete SM devices.

author: kalel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2017, 07:12:12 pm
content: Quote from: ChrisLX200 on November 07, 2017, 07:05:49 pmMaybe you can mark some tested positions so that it's easy to turn the pot to the same 'setting' each time?