ANENG AN8001, 6000 count true RMS Multimeter for $14.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: upsss
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2016, 05:16:58 pm
content: Has anyone seen or better yet have one of thesehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Multimeter-6000-counts-Backlight-AC-DC-Ammeter-Voltmeter-Portable-Meter-/192021771043?hash=item2cb563b323:g:IhsAAOSwal5YIVhS?It looks like it is brand new, no reviews or any reference to it on Google. Almost sounds too good to be true for $14 shipped. What I like about it is that you can perform all but the 10A measurement without switching leads. I am NOT very careless but still I go through fuses after measuring current and then trying to measure voltage without switching leads.I found it also on Aliexpress with a couple different names and model numbers with more detail specs. Aliexpress search sucks, so the best way to find it there is to search for, 6000 count Multimeter.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2016, 06:05:53 pm
content: Look at this threadhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/almost-a-fluke/reply 22 onwards.Looks like a cheap chinese DMM, what Dave would call a 'one hung low'Avoid if you plan to do any work on live mains electricity (even just the occasional check for mains!)

author: upsss
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2016, 06:20:38 pm
content: I would wait for some reviews or at least some internal pictures before condemning it!

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2016, 06:36:12 pm
content: Doesn't look to bad. Of course someone will have to buy one for us to know more about it.I'am curious to see how it stacks up to the 830 variants.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2016, 06:49:54 pm
content: I'm really not a fan of DMMs that share the mA ranges with the Voltage inputs. To my mind it's far too easy to accidentally short the input and show up any weaknesses in the input protection and fusing. Obviously it's less of problem for low energy circuits than its stated rating, but nuisance fuse blowing is still an issue.

author: omgfire
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2016, 08:56:24 pm
content: DTM0660 chip:ennoLogic eM860T, V&A VA40R, Tekpower TP40, Velleman DVM4100, PeakTech 3410, PeakTech 3415Uni-T UT139CHoldPeak HP-890CNHoldPeak HP-990B, HP4070CUni-T UT210EVictor VC921 (TrueRMS variant)Zotek ZT101/ZT102 (aka RM101,AN8001)Review/teardown:http://kazus.ru/forums/showpost.php?p=1069409&postcount=787Adding temperature suboptionhttps://yadi.sk/i/kY2BX0O5y4HkoVideo:http://y2u.be/6mRRrYt-kbISince it's build similar to VC921 (TrueRMS variant) it should survive 1000V on resistance, continuity, etc. (unlike dt830)http://y2u.be/QNRFTMk8MVIIf you want most features of DTM0660 chip and don't care above 1000V CAT II search HP-890CN for $20 on ebay. Similar to Gossen MetraHit, $20 HP-890CN will prevent you from using voltage mode with test leads connected to current jack.If you want DTM0660 with PTC/MOV input protection search Uni-TUT139C.If you want DTM0660 with PTCs+MOVs+HRC fuses, search Tekpower TP40 for $36 on amazon.http://www.kerrywong.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/eM860T_8.jpghttp://www.kerrywong.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/eM860T_9.jpghttp://y2u.be/ny7W-mOH16oIf you want small replacement for DT830 then ZT101/ZT102/RM101/AN8001 for $10 will shine. Things it offers over 830B multimeter in similar sized package:Autorange6000 countBlacklightTrueRMS2xAAA batteries instead of 9vResolution down to 0.01mV both AC and DCCapacitanceFrequency and dutyFuses for currentpresumably have no problems with line voltage on resistance measurementbigger displayAPO

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2016, 09:11:44 pm
content: Quote from: omgfire on November 16, 2016, 08:56:24 pmWhat's a good place to get them for that price? I didn't find anything below the $14 eBay listing.

author: omgfire
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2016, 09:22:26 pm
content: Quote from: edavid on November 16, 2016, 09:11:44 pmannual 11.11 Global Shopping Festival on aliexpress

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2016, 09:40:55 pm
content: QuoteWhat are you expecting for $14 - Fluke quality ?After looking at the russian site (thanks omgfire), exaclty what I thought & said.Cheap peice of crap, you get what you pay for.

author: hugatry
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 09:13:27 am
content: Quote from: omgfire on November 16, 2016, 08:56:24 pmThat's good to know! I was hoping that would be the case. Thank's to DTM0660's digital adjustments, hackability and cheap price, meters based on it are great for hackers who like tobre..modify their tools.I'm looking forward to seeing more and more cheap meter based on that chip.Quote from: omgfire on November 16, 2016, 08:56:24 pmTwo AAAs? Awesome! I ordered one (labeled RM101) and at that time description said it uses 9V batteries. I wen't and checked the description again and it indeed has been updated... 2xAAA it is!Great set of features in small (Fluke 101-sized but 5mm thicker, if specs don't lie) non-pocket multimeter.Quote from: omgfire on November 16, 2016, 08:56:24 pmThose fuses, though.What are those? Fuses for ants?It's good thing they exist and are in correct traces, but they look like baby fuses. 3.6mmx10mm

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 09:58:11 am
content: Hmmm, the only thing genuine about that 600V Cat III rating is the ink it's printed with.It's fine to sell a cheap multimeter for low voltage, low energy use, what's wrong is to deliberately lie about it's safety rating. Given the mA range on the voltage terminals and the tiny fuses, there's a reasonable risk of putting them to the test. There's no way I'd let that anywhere near a mains supply. Probably perfectly fine for breadboard use though.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 10:49:36 am
content: Quote from: MosherIV on November 16, 2016, 09:40:55 pmPretty decent for that price, order of magnitude better than any 830 and similar.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 10:52:51 am
content: Quote from: hugatry on November 17, 2016, 09:13:27 amThey are ceramic, though.

author: omgfire
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 01:19:21 pm
content: Quote from: hugatry on November 17, 2016, 09:13:27 amQuote from: omgfire on November 16, 2016, 08:56:24 pm

author: daveshah
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 01:59:22 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on November 17, 2016, 10:52:51 amI think they're 3.6x10mm form factor. Looking at aLittlefuse partwith axial leads but otherwise similar specs it's interrupt rating is 50A at 250VAC which I'm not sure is even good enough for domestic mains work.

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 04:16:54 pm
content: Quote from: hugatry on November 17, 2016, 09:13:27 amNow that 9V Li-ion batteries are available cheaply, I would actually prefer 9V to AAA.Quote from: daveshah on November 17, 2016, 01:59:22 pmIt's fine for those of us in 120VAC countries.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 04:37:59 pm
content: Quote from: edavid on November 17, 2016, 04:16:54 pmAnd what the point? There is no capacity advantage of cheap Li-ion over AAA eneloop (low discharge). High capacity Li-ion is costs the same or more than the meter itself. Also it would make the meter thicker.

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 04:55:29 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on November 17, 2016, 04:37:59 pmLi-ion 9V: 8.4V * 600mAh = 5WhEneloop 2*AAA: 2.4V * 800mAh = 1.9WhQuoteI have been paying $3 each for 9V Li-ion, compared to $2 each for AAA eneloops, so the Li-ion is cheaper.How much do you pay for AAAs?Also, the self discharge rate of the Li-ion is even better than eneloops, which is nice for a meter that may not be used often.

author: omgfire
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 05:20:28 pm
content: Quote from: edavid on November 17, 2016, 04:55:29 pmLet's have a look at eM860T for examplehttp://www.kerrywong.com/2016/03/13/quick-review-of-the-ennologic-em860t-true-rms-multimeter/It useslinearvoltage regulator to drop 9V battery to 3V, so you should look at A*h instead of W*h.DTM0660 require 2.4V ~ 3.6V, so using 9V battery in DTM0660 based multimeters is wasteful. Couple AA would have four times more mA*h than 9V battery.

author: H.O
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2017, 07:08:02 pm
content: I just got one of these ANENG AN8001 meters. I stumbled across it a on EBAY a couple of weeks back and was interested to see how it compared to the little FLUKE101. There's plenty of teardown photos in the previously posted links so there's no need for me to post any photos of it.Sizewise it's pretty much identical to the FLUKE101. The AN8001 is a little bit lighter and overall it feels a bit cheaper but then again, it's $14.Mechanically it feels fairly solid, not quite as rigid as the FLUKE101 but certainly not bad in comparison. The input jacks is not nearly as solid as on the FLUKE though. The AN8001 does have a tilting stand (which the FLUKE101 doesn't) but it's quite flimsy and you really can't push the buttons with your index finger without the meter falling over. But you can easily support the meter with your fingers and press the buttons with your thumb - which I tend to do anyway.The range switch is fairly snappy with distinct positions but you CAN (ie, if you try to) easily position the knob between two positions. You can do that on the FLUKE101 as well but not quite as easily.The digits are about 50% bigger on the AN8001 compared to the FLUKE101, which I like. The viewing angle is really good side to side and quite good looking at it from the bottom (ie with it lying in front of you on the bench), it's not that great looking at it from above. The FLUKE101 on the other hand is about the same (really good) all around. The AN8001 does have a backlight (the FLUKE101 doesn't) which is fairly uniform with a bit of a hotspot on the right hand side of the display (where the LED obviously is). The viewing angle, with the backlight on, gets a whole lot worse. Side to side it's still quite good, from the bottom it's OK but you start to see the unlit segments but pretty much anything "beyond" straight on and the digits just disappears.The continuity buzzer on the AN8001 is MUCH better compared to the FLUKE101. It's latched (so is the FLUKE101) but the AN8001 is a lot faster, probably on par the FLUKE189 etc.One thing I don't like with the FLUKE101 is the autoranging. It's fairly slow and it keeps bouncing numbers and decimal points across the screen as it goes thru the ranges. The AN8001 isn't much (if any) faster but at least it seems to blank out the digits, does its thing and THEN come up with a number. I don't know, perhaps I'm being picky.I did a couple of comparing measurments between the two (and a FLUKE189 acting as a "reference"). On the ranges where the 189 has more resolution I've rounded the numbers off to display the same number of digits.Code:------------ DC MILLIVOLTS -----------FLUKE189FLUKE101AN801150.26mVN/A50.31mV200.3mVN/A200.3mV600.5mVN/A600.4mVThe mV range on the AN8001 is weird. When disconnecting the leads the display value jumps up and then very slowly (as in minutes) bleeds off. Switching ranges back and forth clears it. And re-connecting the leads "instantly" displays the "new" voltage.Code:-------------- DC VOLTS --------------FLUKE189FLUKE101AN80112,4992,5102,4984,9995,0234,9987,507,537,4910,0010,049,99Code:-------------- Resistance ------------FLUKE189FLUKE101AN801110.3 Ohms10.3 Ohms *10.2 Ohms14.93k14.93k14.93k1.048M1.049M1.046M* After it's initial autorange dance the FLUKE101 settles on 10.9 Ohms. Then over a period of maby 5 seconds it creeps down to 10.3 Ohms.Code:------------- Capacitance ------------FLUKE189FLUKE101AN80112.35nF2.25nF2.27nF19.8nF19.50nF19.70nF10.85uF10.72uF10.82uFI haven't done any measurements on the ACV or current ranges but if anyone want's to see that, or anything else for that matter, let me know and I'll see what I can do.Disclaimer: I've only played around with the meter for a couple of hours and I've had the FLUKE101 for a little while longer but to be honest I like the AN8001 more than the FLUKE101. The weird thing with the mV range bothers me (so does the weird thing that the FLUKE does on the Ohms range) and the lack of proper input protection and those tiny fuses means I will not stick it across the 3-phase power comming into the house. The FLUKE is good in that regard since it doesn't even HAVE a current range and it DOES have proper input protection.

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2017, 07:50:43 pm
content: Quote from: H.O on January 17, 2017, 07:08:02 pmThe mVDC range on the AN8001 is high impedance, as opposed to the usual 10 - 11 meg, which probably explains the odd behavior.

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 12:11:49 am
content: I'm even more impressed by the advertised specs/price ofthis Aneng AN860b meter on eBayIf the specs are to be believed, for $23.36 shipped you get TRMS, Current to 20A, Frequency to 20 MHz, Duty Cycle, Temp, Min/Max Hold, a large backlit display, along with the usual measurements.Are these Aneng meters new? I've never seen a review of one. It's impressive what's coming out of Shenzhen these days..- at least for "low end" stuff.

author: crazyguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 08:18:59 am
content: Quote from: mtdoc on January 27, 2017, 12:11:49 amrebadged multimeter, all of them based on the same DMM chipset DTM0660 (Hycon HY12P66)http://www.hycontek.com/wp-content/uploads/DS-HY12P65-EN.pdfzotekhttp://szzotek.com/en/pr.jsp?_jcp=3_9

author: crazyguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 08:47:50 am
content: Quote from: omgfire on November 16, 2016, 08:56:24 pmsome more DT0660 multimeterPeakMeter PM18, PM18C, PM890C, PM890Dhttp://www.peak-meter.comI bought two PM18C and two HP-890CN last week.The PM18C DC voltage calibration is excellent, absolute error is just 1 count off in the worst case, much better than the HP-890CN calibration (one of them is off by a few counts in DC voltage range).

author: TheRadioGeek
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2017, 04:31:00 pm
content: I just got a AN8001 multimeter from Ebay the other day. Its a nice little meter for the money. It has a big display but the viewing angle is not good from the top but it is good from the bottom and straight on.the continuity mode is good with no scratching and it latches. I like it and for $14 you can go wrong. If you want to see what it looks like and how it works then take a look at my youtube video.TheRadiogeek

author: hostname
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 07:05:50 pm
content: Hi, does anyone knows the differences between the an8001 an8002 and an8004? Spec looks the same, but price is diffedifferent... An8004 cheapest and an8001 highest... Thanks.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122287079095?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=422773937425&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

author: hostname
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 10:47:12 pm
content: Thanks....

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2017, 09:57:16 am
content: Has anybody come across a supply of the miniature 3.6mm fuses that the 101/102/8001/8002 variants of these meters seem to all use? The only ones I seem to find are axial leaded fuses. I guess one could snip off the leads, but feels a bit of a hack.

author: BroMarduk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 22, 2017, 04:17:02 pm
content: Quote from: sleemanj on March 22, 2017, 09:57:16 amIf you look closely at the fuses, it looks like there is a small dot on each end where the lead was or would have been, so I don't think snipping the lead will be a problem. I replaced with a Littlefuse from Mouser, part number 576-0874.500MXEPhttp://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0874.500MXEPvirtualkey57610000virtualkey576-0874.500MXEPfor the 500mA one (part number 576-0874010.MXEP for the 10A one) and with the leads snipped off, it works like the original.That said, if you or anyone finds a source of cheap 3.6x10mm 250VAC 500mA/10A fast blow ceramic fuses elsewhere, I'd be interested.

author: MBY
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2017, 04:22:42 pm
content: Most sources claims that the AN8001 and AN8002 has µA-ranges, but pictures show only mA-range and my two AN8001 certainly only have the ranges 60/600 mA and 6/10A. My question is, has anybody got the AN8002 (with temp measurement) and can say what the lowest current range is? Because, as an electronics meter, only a 60.00 mA-range is a showstopper, and we already know that fuses and input protection, while not totally bad and lacking, is a showstopper for an electrician uses.One other irritating thing is a lack of range- and delta-buttons.

author: BroMarduk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 22, 2017, 04:41:42 pm
content: The AN8004 has the uA range, but is only 2000 count and has no temp and no mV. It's usually the cheapest of the set.Aneng AN8000/Zotek ZT100 - 4000 Count/mV/mAAneng AN8001/Zotek ZT101 - 6000 Count/mV/mAAneng AN8002/Zotek ZT102 - 6000 Count/mV/mA/TempAneng AN8004/Zotek ZT98 - 2000 Count/mA/uA(Also under Richmeters and Kasuntest brands)

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2017, 09:25:04 pm
content: Quote from: MBY on March 22, 2017, 04:22:42 pmYou are correct, there are only A and mA range selections and the minimum scale in the mA range is 60mA, so the best you can measure is down to 10uA, ignoring error.It's a bit of a shame, just a few tweaks here and there would make it a much better meter still fitting into that small size, add a uA range, use 5x20 fuses at a minimum, expose the Min/Max and Manual ranging functionality.

author: BroMarduk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 23, 2017, 12:38:25 pm
content: Quote from: sleemanj on March 22, 2017, 09:25:04 pmThat is pretty much the general consensus I have been hearing on this (AN8002/ZT102) variant that with a few tweaks you would have a much better product worth charging a few dollars more and focused on electronics work. In addition to the items mentioned above, the input jacks sometimes make a snapping sound when removing leads and could use some improvements - I don't expect them to last too long. A longer backlight (or the ability to turn the auto light off feature) is on my list as well. Better LCD contrast should be an easy fix.Maybe someone will make a mid-range (relative) model that is more the size of the Fluke 107 instead of the 101 and use the space to add some buttons, fuses etc. or even improve the design of the already larger Aneng AN860B+. You never know with China, since it seems to be about economies of scale most of the time.

author: dseyst
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2017, 02:10:52 am
content: If you look at the back of the circuit board in an Aneng 8001, there is a range switch pad that actually works.

author: Crumble
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2017, 09:23:31 pm
content: To those who have not seen it yet, a video was made by joeqsmith about the AN8002, which is probably for a large part the same:Consequently, I bought one as an extra, it often helps to have some extra monitoring of power rails and such. I guess as long as I don't use the thing on anything with a lot of energy I'd be ok. I think the worst thing this thing will see is an occational audio amp.I think the µA range would require another place on the switch, because it will need another shunt. Right now I've got enough meters that can do µAs (I can't imagine me ever using more than 2 such meters simultaneously), so I'm satisfied with the 60mA range. It has shunt of about 1.3Ohm, so it won't upset most systems (78mV burden voltage).I also did a few measurements with power consumption, and it seems to be only about 1,5mA (depending on range, but I only tried a few ranges). I'm running it on NiMH now, but this is troublesome because the backlight gets dimmer and you will not be able to light most LEDs anymore. It does send out 1,5mA in the diode check, which might be a lot.edit: The automatic power off option does work, but the unit keeps on bleeping if you activate it, which I consider to be quite annoying. Sometimes I'm just doing measuring with a few meters while tweaking working on a schematic and I just want it to display whatever it is set to QUIETLY until told to do otherwise. Especially because I have a Gossen meter that beeps when an overcurrent (and probably overvoltage too, haven't tried 600V yet) occurs.

author: necessaryevil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2017, 07:45:02 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on November 17, 2016, 09:58:11 amWhat's even worse is that some of the better brands which you can buy in local shops dosomelying too. OK, I have to mention the fact that those are mostly minor violations (e.g. 250v fuses in a device with a 500V CAT rating)What I don't get is that the DT102 manual mentions that the current input is only for low voltage input. What does that mean?I agree, they shouldn't print the CAT rating on the multimeter. That being said, the ZT102 is a fun meter! I bought it to play with and because of the temperature converter which I bought for my Fluke 87 III isn't that accurate. It is an old type thermocouple converter, based on discrete parts, it's accuracy is only +- 5 deg C (it is probably meant for measuring high temperatures).

author: Crumble
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2017, 01:39:16 pm
content: Ok small update: I had previously suggested the max voltage you could detect in diode check mode was limited by using NiMH batteries due to their lower voltage. It however seems to contain a charge pump or so making it possible to measure LEDs up to ~2,96V (2x red LED) while its supply voltage was about 2,55V. The light from the LEDs drops quite noticably while doing so, so the current is probably in the low uAs, but it does display the value.

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2017, 10:31:11 am
content: Quote from: crazyguy on January 27, 2017, 08:47:50 amPM18A seems to be maybe a fairly new auto ranging version of the 18C - NCV, Freq, Temp, Capacitance, uA range, and 6000 count.Don't know how long this has existed for but there seems to be only Peakmeter themselves on Aliexpress selling it, nothing much on google.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PEAKMETER-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Ammeter-PM18A-with-True-RMS-AC-DC-Voltage-Resistance-Capacitance-Frequency-Temperature-NCV/32817940143.html

author: crazyguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2017, 11:41:13 am
content: Quote from: sleemanj on July 03, 2017, 10:31:11 amPM18A should be a new model. I cannot found this model on their website or taobao store.PeakMeter DMMhttp://www.peak-meter.com/product/6/p1

author: colorado.rob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2017, 12:57:13 pm
content: Quote from: sleemanj on July 03, 2017, 10:31:11 amI think I'm more impressed by the silicone test probes they are selling for under $7. I'd love to know if they are any good and hold up to their CAT rating.

author: Crumble
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2017, 09:42:29 pm
content: Quote from: colorado.rob on July 03, 2017, 12:57:13 pmThat is interesting indeed, especially when they actually are ~70mOhm as they very obviously show on one of the pictures.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2017, 09:47:52 am
content: Quote from: colorado.rob on July 03, 2017, 12:57:13 pmI bought some of these:http://www.ebay.com/itm/252361778216I was so impressed I bought some more after they arrived.

author: Crumble
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 09:16:08 am
content: Ordering one now!I do not own a Fluke, but they seem to be a pretty good match for my Gossen Metrawatt Metrahit One.

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 12:46:43 pm
content: Quote from: colorado.rob on July 03, 2017, 12:57:13 pmWhen those oddly-cheap "Fluke TL71" probes started appearing I bought a set from eBay to see what they were like. The black one had a serious defect, it looked as if the tip had been chopped off with cutters. The material the probe handles are made of feels oddly soft and "plastic-y" compared to a much older pair I have that came with a Fluke 289. The wires and plugs seem okay. The wire insulation is a bit slicker and less rubbery than the old set, but it does not melt with a 300C iron. The new set and the old set measure 62 and 65 mOhms, respectively, so I have no reason to suspect the copper and the connections. But the tips are definitely nothing special.Does Fluke have anything to do with the manufacturing of these leads, or did the Chinese just start counterfeiting them? I don't know. But test leads labeled "Fluke" are all a bit suspect nowadays in my opinion.

author: WhichEnt2
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 01:39:48 pm
content: Quote from: ModemHead on September 12, 2017, 12:46:43 pmThanks for sharing the measurement results.About a week ago I measure one pair of $9.58 Fluke TL71 chinese test leads with XJW-01.25 mOhm each with kelvin clips directly applied.

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 01:59:08 pm
content: Quote from: WhichEnt2 on September 12, 2017, 01:39:48 pmI guess I should note that my measurements were with an HP34401A in 2-wire mode, both leads together, with the tips securely shorted by two tip jacks joined with 12ga copper.

author: WhichEnt2
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 02:47:27 pm
content: As far as I know any common methodic for measuring resistance of test leads is not exist.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 03:01:04 pm
content: Quote from: WhichEnt2 on September 12, 2017, 02:47:27 pmhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-terminal_sensing

author: WhichEnt2
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 03:07:32 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on September 12, 2017, 03:01:04 pmDo you have any links that may provide some information in a few steps above an entry level? Specific measurement procedures, for example.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 03:23:45 pm
content: Quote from: WhichEnt2 on September 12, 2017, 03:07:32 pmIt's just Ohm's Law.You pass a current though the lead (eg. with a current-limited power supply) and simultaneously measure:a) The voltage drop across the leadb) The amps passing through itYou can do it with two handheld multimeters.This measurement technique is the reason why we say "one multimeter isn't enough".(well, one of the reasons we say that)

author: WhichEnt2
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 03:49:35 pm
content: I mean measurement conditions specific for test leads, it's not defined.Anyone measure it in way they wanted and this make any information from that publications non usable to others.I measure it not in series connection to avoid any inaccuracy from the contact resistance.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 04:00:31 pm
content: Quote from: WhichEnt2 on September 12, 2017, 03:49:35 pmYou can use both leads (red+black) in series and touch the probes together in the middle to simulate that.

author: Crumble
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2017, 09:36:40 pm
content: I got the "Fluke" leads in too, and they seem quite good. I do not have a 4-wire capable meter, but the AN8008 shows them as being about 0,04\$\Omega\$ when shorted, making them half of that each, which is quite good. The leads do seem to contain some surface corrosion or plastic residue, because the sides make only intermittent contact upon touching. There's quite some "scrachyness" to them in continuity, even after cleaning with acetone and then contact spray. Visually I don't see anything obvious though. They do have a nice finish though, and they do "work". The CAT IV safetycaps have a very loose fit though (but I won't be using those, I'm not an electrician).

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2017, 11:45:23 pm
content: Quote from: WhichEnt2 on September 12, 2017, 03:49:35 pmI don't remember seeing much in the standards about the test leads. Maybe they have their own standards. I ran some destructive test on several test leads some time ago where I was applying a stepped constant current through them and comparing the results. I recently ran the leads supplied with the ZT102/AN8002 and show how they compare with the other leads I have looked at. If I continue to look at test leads, I will just follow this same procedure.It would be nice to do some other tests like bending the leads in a tight radius until they fracture, a pull test, maybe a material and plating type/thickness.https://youtu.be/fG61v8UgzA8

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2017, 04:54:18 am
content: HELP MY RESEARCH!i am looking for some 8001 / 8002 eeprom dumps from meters that do NOT have frequency&duty cycle on the volts range.i want to see if it's an undocumented bit in the eeprom.if it is, we can enable it on other meters too - like UT-210e for example!

author: Diabolo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2017, 02:08:24 pm
content: Hello,On DMM ANG8001 and ZT101, the 500 mA fuse is only used for the mA function !All other functions of the DMM go through the 10A fuse !----The 3.6x10mm fuses are repaired by drilling them through and then passing a fuse wire recovered on a fuse 5x20mm Quick of 500mA and welding this wire on the old fuse 3.6x10mm.Regards,Diabolo

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2017, 02:35:43 pm
content: that is so wrong, firstly you never repair a fuse,second the rating of the 20mm fuse was calculated based on the thickness AND length of the wire.so you just increased the current before it blows by possibly double.why didnt you just shift or replace the clips to use the 20mm fuse??

author: Diabolo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2017, 07:08:54 pm
content: Hello,I did not have a 3.6x10 fuse on hand, and these seem to be untraceable on the market.The main thing is that my DMM ZT101 works on the mA range.I did not try to install a 5x20 fuse, the space is too small.As for the other ranges protected by a 10A fuse, the risk is equally important to toast the DMM.Cdlt,Diabolo

author: Crumble
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2017, 08:13:09 pm
content: I must be honest I have blown one of the fuses I had too (the 10A one).I have indeed repaired it by desoldering the original wire (the end caps are soldered shut) and replacing it with a strand of a 96 x 0.1mm hook-up wire. The original wire in the 10A fuse was ~0.25mm in diameter and made of copper. Nothing special here, I think the guys that made it read the wikipedia article on fusing current of copper wirehere, as measured in 1888 bij Preece, there is nothing sophisticated going on here...If you need a pre-made unit of these fuses, try these:http://eu.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0874.500MXEPvirtualkey57610000virtualkey576-0874.500MXEP.They do have wires on both sides, but these are easily removed. You might find these specific types at other vendors too, but you'll have to look for them yourself. I bought the 2 last 800mA fast fuses of this size at Farnell.

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2017, 10:11:02 pm
content: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/RONG6112this guy has 10mm fuses.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2017, 10:14:43 pm
content: Quote from: stj on October 06, 2017, 04:54:18 amI tried the read the contents from the two meters I had damaged that did not have that feature. All FFs now...

author: Diabolo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2017, 02:07:01 am
content: Hello,10x3mm various fuse kit for repair.-https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/50pcs-lot-3-10mm-5-Values-FUSE-Assorted-Kit-M125-With-Pin-Electronic-Components-0-1A/32810067446.html?spm=a2g0w.10010108.1000014.2.2621b7949BCa0z&traffic_analysisId=recommend_3035_null_null_null&scm=1007.13338.80878.000000000000000&pvid=c7ade293-1f36-48a1-9b89-2e8f75c55c68&tpp=1Diabolo

author: Crumble
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2017, 12:53:49 pm
content: That's good news, thanks for sharing.

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2017, 12:33:05 pm
content: i think i found it - helps if you have enough dumps to compare!if you want to have frequency/duty mode then set location FD =a0if for some strange reason you want to get rid of it, change location FD = 90let me know if it works for you.

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 15, 2017, 09:25:35 am
content: BTW, AN800* looks to be suffering from the same problem as AN8008: ripple on one of power rails:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/an8008-us-$19-10000count-1uv-0-01ua-0-01ohm-resolution-meter/msg1261300/#msg1261300 . At least I observed this on my ZT102.

author: 001
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2017, 07:14:25 am
content: NEW MODEL 8009 RELEASED JUST NOWNew tread herehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/latest-aneng-9999-dmm-invented!-an8009-now!/

author: flash2b
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2018, 03:50:18 pm
content: My RichMeters RM101 (which is the same as the Aneng AN8001) stopt working all of a sudden.I cannot select (using the yellow select button) AC for V, mV, A and mA anymore. Also I cannot select continuity, diode and capacitance anymore. The only range that that still swiches pressing the yellow select is the Hz / % range.The Yellow select button does work since it works on he Hz / % range and in all other range I can hear the beep.I have not done anything with the meter and I never opened it, as a fact it has seen little use and this behaviour occured not during measurement or misue.Does anyone know how to fix this? (it seems an EEPROM problem).

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2018, 08:22:12 pm
content: Quote from: flash2b on February 11, 2018, 03:50:18 pmTried new batteries? If they are getting a bit flat weird things might happen.

author: flash2b
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2018, 09:14:24 pm
content: Tried with new batteries, but no effect. The meter (bought 16-11-2016 on AliExpress) was not used for about 1/2 a year and like I said hasn't been used a lot due to the fact I have better meters around.The meter still measures accurate, is now very limited since it doesn't switch to AC, continuity and diode anymore.

author: plazma
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2018, 10:36:48 am
content: I had similar problems but it was caused by a misaligned wiper in the rotary switch.

author: flash2b
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2018, 07:49:40 pm
content: So your also didn't switch range using the Yellow key because of the wiper problem ?

author: plazma
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2018, 07:54:53 pm
content: Quote from: flash2b on February 18, 2018, 07:49:40 pmIt may have been in wrong mode because of the wiper misalignment. But I noticed the yellow key did not work as expected.

author: none
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2018, 12:53:08 pm
content: Regarding the last few posts: my Richmeters 101 came with one wiper spring contact stuck so it did not make any contact. However, it was not bent, only stuck, so just a little nudge helped.Hoping to be able to add serial output:I bought it originally as it is supposedly based on a DTM660 and I was hoping to add serial output as described for a eM860T onhttp://www.kerrywong.com/2016/03/19/hacking-dtm0660l-based-multimeters/(Datasheet translated to English athttp://www.kerrywong.com/2016/04/03/dtm0660-datasheet-translated/the original is supposed to be available viahttps://sigrok.org/wiki/Multimeter_ICs#Dream_Tech_International_DTM0660)However, this apparently has not been done before for this model (I could not find anything).One (EEPROM) hack, enabling temperature measurement (that is available on the AN8002 / ZT102 / RT102 / ...), is linked above in post #5 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/aneng-an8001-6000-count-true-rms-multimeter/msg1072397/#msg1072397) which is a Russian PDF. It (google-)translates to:QuoteTo make use of the serial port, the REL button would have to be accessible.However, of the five implemented in DTM660L (Function Keys: SELECT, RANGE, REL, HZ/DUTY, HOLD (BACKLIGHT), MAX/MIN, BACKLIGHT), the AN8001/RM101/ZT101 only has SEL(ECT) and HOLD (BACKLIGHT) as actual buttons, and a contact for RANGE internally.The datasheet does not seem to specify the pins for the buttons.This video by Vitalii Tereshchuk, "🗜UPGRADE Multimeter RICHMETERS ZT102, RM102 True RMS. Доработка мультиметра" atupgrades an ZT102 by adding four buttons: "Hz/%", REL, MIN/MAX, RANGEand identifies the following pins / test points:PT1.0 (left of battery holder)PT1.1 (right of battery holder, connected to SW3 RANGE contact pattern)"PT1.2" (not an actual pad and unlabelled, it's a via between the EEPROM and the IC blobIt seems to be a button matrix, and the connections are shown at 2m44s in the video (https://youtu.be/qFUTGubdvlQ?t=164):HZ/DUTYPT1.1 - PT1.0RM101 in Hz/%: switches between Hz and % (same as SEL?)RELPT1.1 - PT1.2RM101 in V: switches to deltaRANGEPT1.1 - BAT- (VSS)RM101 in V: switches to MANUAL and then sets decimal separatorMIN/MAXPT1.2 - 1.0 (I assume PT1.0)RM101 in V: switches to MANUAL between MAX and MINREL does not react to a long press (I'm just shorting PT1.1 and the via with test leads) yet, so reading/writing the EEPROM is next.Also, the TX pin needs to be located on the board.According to Kerry Wong's translated datasheet pinout, it would be pin 20 (PT1.4/TX) however, from his photos it appears other pins might be used (and connected to D9).TP1.4/TX would be pin 20, just after the I2C lines for the EEPROM.Thanks to Vitalii Tereshchuk we know where PT1.2 / pin 22 is located.Only one trace emerges from the epoxy blob and it goes to a via - that could also be PT1.3 on pin 21. Indeed, the via connects to the HOLD/BACKLIGHT button.A sacrificial device to grind down or an x-ray would be needed to determine if the other pin has been bonded at all.Even then, accessing it would probably be very difficult unless you are equipped with precision machines or (dangerous) decapping equipment/materials.There are also many reviews / teardowns on Youtube:https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=an8001+rm101+zt101Here's another EEPROM hack and hardware modification (Korean):https://blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=twophase&logNo=221088350484&redirect=Dlog&widgetTypeCall=true&directAccess=falsehttps://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fblog.naver.com%2FPostView.nhn%3FblogId%3Dtwophase%26logNo%3D221088350484%26redirect%3DDlog%26widgetTypeCall%3Dtrue%26directAccess%3Dfalse&edit-text=&act=urlQuoteConclusion: no serial data out for ZT101/ZT102 (Aneng AN8001/AN8002, Richmeters RM101/RM102 and other rebrands).Here's a Japanese blog entry (and a copy of the original datasheet as PDF):http://moomin63.blog107.fc2.com/blog-entry-863.htmlhttps://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fmoomin63.blog107.fc2.com%2Fblog-entry-863.html&edit-text=&act=urlSo if anyone has a broken / defective unit of any of these models: zt101 zt201 rm101 rm102 an8001 an8002 please sand down the epoxy blob so the world can see the first PCB layer in its full glory!

author: none
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2018, 02:20:53 pm
content: I couldn't find a photo with the LCD removed, so in case anyone else wants to trace vias ...

author: yunLad
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 18, 2021, 09:40:52 am
content: Hi! I just now got this meter to replace my semi-broken chinesium generic and I wanted to document howit's possible to add the uA range without sacrificing one of the other ranges!(kinda, temperature only works with the newly added switch in mA position) utilizing just a spdt switch.In the eeprom dumps you can see unused range options so after a bit of poking and playing with the eeprom content I indeed found a viable spot between two vias (one is for mA range selection, the other - random choice) to connect additional range toggle switch for mA position. (as it later turned out, not the best placement since it aliases ohms and temperature on the same new oneoh well)On my board revision the 99 ohm resistor was missing so I've had to add one (carefully selecting 3x33 ohm) and wire in a spdt switch that would bridge this 99 ohm in one position and switch to the new ranges bridging the two vias in the other. (a mosfet would be a better option, I know, but it was getting late.)All that was left was to populate blank spots in the eeprom with correct values for affected ranges, see the rm102.ino for details. (here I found my mistake with temp but chose to ignore it, maybe somebody will find a better position for the switch)Here's my dump for anyone interested:Code:FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 52 00 FA 00 48 D5 03AC 26 0F 27 D4 03 6E 50 64 4B 3C 3C 0A FF 40 FFF3 99 00 80 64 00 96 00 00 80 00 80 5B 7E 63 724E 02 09 80 02 0A 46 FB 09 15 FF 09 8D 03 0A 0000 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 0000 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 809B 7E 00 83 01 00 FA 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 004A 81 00 80 C6 84 E0 7C 18 01 00 00 00 00 00 0000 0C 10 09 00 00 10 13 00 0E 00 07 00 12 03 0100 0D 11 07 00 00 11 15 00 0F 00 09 00 00 04 0200 00 00 0A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A 00 00 00 0000 00 00 0B 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B 00 00 00 000D 00 02 10 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 1000 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 2000 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 8000 80 FF FF FF FF FF FF 5A C7 CC 0F 78 A2 00 00I threw in additional capacitors to filter the vcc rail - 100uF worth of mlcc and an electrolytic (much faster readings), min/max and range buttons from video above and hacked it to 9999 counts (how was that even possible?)(It would be a good idea to calibrate the new range but don't know yet how to go about doing that and I don't have a current nor voltage reference)Hope this helps someone!

author: shved
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2022, 09:34:53 pm
content: Has anyone managed to get UART working?I'm looking for cheap DIY data-logging solution. I've successfully modded several UNI-T and HoldPeak meters before.My thought process is: PC<USB<USB-UART bridge RX<IR photo transistor<IR LED<cheap meter UART_TX.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2022, 10:44:03 am
content: The Parkside PDM 300 C1, C2 and C3 DMMs have a serial pin. The protocol has been reverse engineered and there are at least two versions of software written to get readings from it.It is a basic auto-ranging meter whose CAT rating has been certified by TUV. Parkside is a Lidl brand and these meters appear in their "special buys" every so often at £10 or local equivalent. ebay.uk currently has several listings from £15 upwards.Pictures show how I've added a serial to USB board. The serial output pin is mostly high so to minimise the added power consumption the optocoupler (legs in the air) is between serial pin and the positive output of the regulator. I used a Sharp PC817 opto and a 1k series resistor was low enough to reliably transmit to its output side. That's a BC558 (PNP) and 10k resistor piggybacked on the USB-serial module. I did need to shave the module's PCB slightly to fit it in. There is a 3mm thick plastic sheet between the DMM PCB and the module. Epoxy glue securing everything including the opto.Just connect to computer USB port with normal USB to micro-USB cable.Photo is of a C1 version. I also have a C2 version which is identical except that the DMM chip is directly on the main PCB but Tx pin is there and marked. Info on the internet says the C3 version (Spring 2022) is also amenable.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2022, 12:56:42 am
content: Quote from: shved on August 02, 2022, 09:34:53 pmIt's doubtful the Serial TX Data Output pin is actually bonded to the die, like this AN8002 pic apparently shows.You can look for a substrate diode reading, or scope the pad as another way to see if there are signs of a connection. I did not find one.EEPROM location 0xFD (stock is 0x82) can be programmed for some options:"V1.9 Add UART upload option: 24C02 FDH.6=1 select 9721 compatible format, FDH.6=0 (dtm0660L version), FDH.5=1 send 14Bytes, FDH.5=0 send 15Bytes (dtm0660L version)" refers to bit 6 and bit 5.

author: shved
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2022, 11:39:26 pm
content: Thanks everybody.New version(currently sold) is on a different PCB with different chip & pinout.Best guess on the chip is SD7501 by SDIC Microelectronics (http://www.sdicmicro.cn/upload/img/2021-08/611cad9c519ad.pdf).If anybody has some info - please share.No EEPROM, no reaction on the extra button pins, no signal on UART pin. Pretty unmodable, as far as I can see. Shame.Internals photo included.

author: shved
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2022, 03:16:34 pm
content: For my data-logging project I've bought and modded VICTOR VC-921 instead of Aneng AN8001.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hacking-the-victor-vc-921/25/