How to stop my laptop dc barrel charger from charging inconsistently? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: electroniclearner820327
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2024, 05:04:18 pm
content: It will only charge when in a very specific position when plugged in.I have to fiddle with plugging and unplugging and twisting and jamming something up against it to put pressure on the wire to stay in a certain configuration in order to make it charge properly. I have not found a consistent way to do this either and takes many minutes of faffing.Also it can shift out of position and if I don't keep constantly checking the estimated charge time I could easily be left with a flat battery and it shuts down as the charging light will still say charge when really is not charging to a capacity to be in a surplus but rather a deficit.I don't know what could be causing it. I checked the lead connector with at multimeter and it shows solid voltage. I tried cleaning the input connection on the laptop and that didn't help.What could be causing this inconsistency?

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2024, 05:08:10 pm
content: Worn out or wrong size plug causing poor contact. Or the connector is ripped out of the PCB, with the same result.

author: DeKu
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 02, 2024, 07:07:33 pm
content: Do you have a Multimeter?If so, you can check the Barrel plug at the End of the Cable, while wiggling it... So you can find out if its the Cable or the Plug. If you get inconstistent readings, you may have a break in your Cable. But most of the time, its the the receiving side on the Device. Usually, most of them tend to loose contact to the PCB. Sometimes you can "temporarily" fix it, by resoldering the Jack. In my old Repair Shop, we tended to use Chassis mounted Jacks and soldered a wire to the Mainboard of the Laptop.I do not believe, that that is an option with newer Models though. They are much slimmer and usually the Space you would need for something like this, just isn't there.What kind of Laptop - Model is it?DeKu

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2024, 09:46:16 pm
content: I used to admin laptops, and it was very common for the power jack to break away from the PCB. For a laptop that moved around alot 2-3 years was a good life expectancy mostly because of this.

author: electroniclearner820327
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2024, 03:09:55 pm
content: Quote from: DeKu on November 02, 2024, 07:07:33 pmThat was mentioned in the op. I have one and used it to check the male connector but not anything on the laptop itself or while it was plugged in. Just checked the + and - of the barrel.QuoteIt is a cheapy chinese called jumpertech ezpad pro 6.Specs:Code:Brand‎jumperProduct Dimensions‎30 x 18.6 x 0.9 cm; 1.32 kgBatteries‎1 Lithium Metal batteries required. (included)Item model number‎EZpad 6 ProManufacturer‎jumperSeries‎EZpad 6proColour‎SilverForm Factor‎ConvertibleStanding screen display size‎11.6 InchesScreen Resolution‎1920 x 1080 pixelsResolution‎1920x1080 PixelsProcessor Brand‎IntelProcessor Type‎CeleronProcessor Speed‎1.1 GHzProcessor Count‎2RAM Size‎6 GBMemory Technology‎DDR3Computer Memory Type‎DDR3 SDRAMMaximum Memory Supported‎6 GBHard Drive Size‎64 GBHard Disk Description‎EmmcAudio Details‎SpeakersGraphics Coprocessor‎Intel HD Graphics 500Graphics Chipset Brand‎IntelGraphics Card Description‎IntegratedGraphics RAM Type‎DDR3 SDRAMGraphics Card Interface‎IntegratedConnectivity Type‎Bluetooth, Wi-FiWireless Type‎Bluetooth, 802.11bgnNumber of USB 2.0 Ports‎1Number of USB 3.0 Ports‎1Voltage‎3.7 VoltsOptical Drive Type‎noOperating System‎Windows 10 HomeAre Batteries Included‎YesLithium Battery Energy Content‎34.5 Watt HoursLithium Battery Packaging‎Batteries contained in equipmentLithium Battery Voltage‎7.6 VoltsLithium Battery Weight‎130 gNumber Of Lithium Ion Cells‎2Item Weight‎1.32 kgGuaranteed software updates until‎unknown

author: electroniclearner820327
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2024, 03:17:55 pm
content: Quote from: janoc on November 02, 2024, 05:08:10 pmIf the connector is ripped out wouldn't it not charge at all?It is getting so bad now. I had to spend like 20+ minutes fiddling to try and find an angle where it would charge. Finally it did for a few minutes to get to 27% or so but then when I check back again it is discharging faster than it is charging.Is it fixable relatively easily? I see the main impediment being the laptops are more 'sealed' and not supposed to be opened up unlike desktop pcs. I haven't tried with this one or looked so it may be possible. Not familiar with opening laptops, having been used to desktops.I wonder if it might crack the plastic or something to open it. Not a great problem since it was a cheap device and don't mind bodging a patch over it after if I could get the charge functioning again as in this state it is very close to unusable.Once open what would be the process of diagnosing and then fixing the issue? As earlier stated the wire and connector side seem fine, having checked again today, It seems the laptop connector side is the problem.

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 10:31:15 am
content: Quote from: electroniclearner820327 on November 05, 2024, 03:17:55 pmIt is enough that the solder joints are cracked. Then you will have intermittent contact with exactly the symptoms you describe.Quote from: electroniclearner820327 on November 05, 2024, 03:17:55 pmImpossible to say? Depends on your laptop, your equipment and your skills.Quote from: electroniclearner820327 on November 05, 2024, 03:17:55 pmIf you don't know how to diagnose broken solder joints/connectors, I suggest you go and find someone who can help you or mentor you - e.g. a local hackerspace/makerspace, repair cafe, etc. Trying to repair a laptop full of fragile components, glue, etc. as your first project is a good way to turn a simple repair into an unfixable disaster, esp. if you don't have the skills or equipment required.

author: Solder_Junkie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 12:11:38 pm
content: I have repaired a few laptops, but no idea about the one in question. Those by reputable brands can be opened by removing the screws and popping the case open with a thin guitar pick.Whether you can access the charging socket to re-solder, or replace, is another matter.There are several reviews on Amazon that also mention charging socket problems and no support from the manufacturer…A computer repair shop might be your only option if you aren’t confident at repairing it yourself.SJ

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 02:52:24 pm
content: I could never understand why they use the horrible things.It's not as if they need the barrel to activate a switch contact, as all the ones I have seen used mainboard circuitry to detect the presence of the incoming DC.Perfectly adequate two conductor plugs & sockets have been around for years, such a the small ones used with cheap AM CB radios.The latest laptops use USB "C" connectors.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 06:44:57 pm
content: A lot of (most?) laptop DC barrel jacks are not two-conductor, but are three: ground, V+, and 1-Wire communication.“The latest” laptops? USB-C charging has been widespread for charging for over a decade now, actually. It’s only the most power-hungry models that couldn’t be powered by USB-C until the recent 240W upgrade to USB PD.

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 06:54:27 pm
content: You will have to locate same connector on aliexpress and solder it in place. That's the only solution.https://ibb.co/xFSzQmDCould it possibly be this one, DC003?https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005007253711859.htmlI wouldn't know, you'd have to disassemble it and take a look.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 07:02:29 pm
content: Quote from: u666sa on November 06, 2024, 06:54:27 pmThat is only “the only solution” if the jack itself is damaged, which we don’t know to be the case or not. If it’s just broken solder joints, then no new jack is needed. And if the PCB itself is damaged, then replacing the jack won’t fix the problem, either.(So please don’t write “the only solution is…” when you are not 100.0% certain that is the case.)

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 07:14:39 pm
content: It's a cheap connector, my expertice tells me it is the only solution, in fact my professional side wants to charge the OP $30 for replacement job, and that includes restoring solder points if those are broken!

author: DimitriP
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 10:11:30 pm
content: QuoteIt's time to take it apaaaaaht!!!

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2024, 02:28:44 am
content: Quote from: tooki on November 06, 2024, 06:44:57 pmAll the ones I have repaired were just + & - , using a "dumb" charger, so there was no communication, nor was there any provision for an extra contact on the barrel.I have had a number of laptops, with the current one only a few years old, & they all used barrel jacks.My son's & daughter's new laptops use USB "C".

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2024, 07:11:25 am
content: Quote from: vk6zgo on November 07, 2024, 02:28:44 amYeah, I haven't had a laptop that uses a sense pin in a long time. It's usually just a 19v barrel jack or USB-C PD these days.

author: electroniclearner820327
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2024, 04:18:54 pm
content: Quote from: vk6zgo on November 07, 2024, 02:28:44 amI will also add here that I know this is the case with mine too because I actually am not charging it with AC to DC via mains but I actually made my own connection direct to my van's leisure battery and it only uses +/-. It actually took me ages to figure out, with many suggestions to finally narrow it down to this one, that I had to use a voltage regulator to make it charge at a consistent 12v as my leisure battery fluctuates from 11-14 or somewhere in that range. Before I did that the light would come on but not charge and as someone rightly suggested it was due to overvoltage protection meaning it would only charge in a specific range.Now before anyone says this is the cause of the problems it was working fine for the best part of a year until suddenly getting worse recently. Well it was not flawless as it did often require a bit of fiddling but it has not become extremely temperamental to the point of rarely finding the 'sweet spot' at all.Oh another interesting note, it does say it is charging, just with a longer estimate than it would take to discharge if plugged in. So today I plugged it in as I went out to work and when I came back after 6 hours or so and switched it on it was on 100%. So it does charge, just much slower. If in the 'sweet spot' it should charge in under two hours and I could keep it plugged in on 0% and it would increase quite quickly.

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2024, 04:34:33 pm
content: Quote from: electroniclearner820327 on November 12, 2024, 04:18:54 pmAnd you did not consider it necessary to mention that before? Hmpf.Did you double-check by trying to charge the notebook via its standard wall-wart supply?How much current can your voltage regulator provide? Replacement power supplies for that Jumper EZpad 6 Pro seem to offer 12V, 3A. If that's what you are comparing to, can your voltage regulator provide the same current?Also, are you sure the voltage regulator still gives you 12V if the input from the van battery is below 12V (or just a tad above)? There are "buck/boost" converters which can do that, but many simple buck or linear converters cannot.

author: electroniclearner820327
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2024, 05:31:25 pm
content: Quote from: ebastler on November 12, 2024, 04:34:33 pmNot sure of anything. Yes I should have mentioned it from the start but I simply forgot. Was not intentional.Come to think of it you might be on to something about the battery being below a certain point as I have had really bad solar lately which has been dropping the battery to almost 0% and the issues with the laptop seem to have started to get really bad around this same time frame! Also I thought on the better solar days it seemed to charge more easily again.Will have to keep an eye on that.I have checked with the multimeter several times though, throughout this bad period, and it always says consistent voltage of 11.6 or 12.4. These are two voltages I have set it at myself because of the range that the laptop would charge in. I would keep it on for a few seconds but I don't know about more than that. I can only say when I took the readings it did not fluctuate for that time.

author: kmm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2024, 08:53:47 pm
content: Same position-sensitive failure behavior has happened to me when the wire going to the barrel connector breaks inside the charger cable, usually the break is right before the strain relief part of the molding.I've fixed a couple laptop charge bricks with nonstandard barrel connectors by cutting off the damaged section of cable, stripping the plastic molding off the barrel connector (slice with a knife longitudinally and peel usually works, might need pliers to get the peel started), and then re-soldering the wires to the appropriate barrel terminals. After it's re-terminated hot glue squirted up inside a heat shrink sleeve do a pretty decent job of remaking the molded plastic, aesthetics aside. All the repairs I've done like this have lasted long enough that the laptop went too obsolete to be particularly useful before the cable failed again.Should be easy to check if it's a cable problem just by probing the barrel and seeing if the voltage comes back or goes away when it's flexed in certain ways.

author: electroniclearner820327
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 07:49:04 am
content: Coming back to this issue which I never fixed as it was somewhat tolerable for a while but gotten worse now with less and less of a sweet spot.I am currently spending nearly all my computer sessions having to nurse that barrel connector. If I get a sweet spot and it shows positive charge it could fall out of that at any time unbeknownst to me as the light stays on unless I am constantly checking the charge rate/time to charge.Many times I will be in a false sense of security as it gets to 50%+ and thinking I don't have to keep monitoring it only for it to switch off for lack of charge maybe 30 minutes later.So in its current state it is barely usable and usable only with the constantly wasted time nursing the barrel, as above,So I am ready to break it open and see if I can fix the connector inside, if indeed that is the issue as it is barely usable as it.Should I try and undo the case or just go straight for trying to hacksaw where the connector is to get so room to work? Of course try the former first but I won't be shy to do the latter if the first is not forthcoming.I don't care about how it looks and would be easy to plaster it up with some tape or whatnot. Just want better functionality.

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 11:17:44 am
content: See if you can download the service manual for the computer. if you can they will show you how to take it apart. It may not be that difficult if you know the procedure rather than guessing.

author: valcher
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 12:20:14 pm
content: Somewhere I saw a set of magnetic power connectors on Aliexpress for laptops.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 01:46:12 pm
content: If the problem is the solder joint(s) between the socket and the board, then there is NO EXTERNAL fix.

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 11:41:12 pm
content: I recently replaced the DC jack on my ASUS EM410, where it got to the point where no amount of wiggling would make satisfactory contact.It was a very fiddly job, but there are a number of videos on YouTube which show how to do it.They also point out that the problem is internal to the jack & replacement is the only satisfactory repair.After closing it up, I plugged in the charger & all looked great, while it was sitting on the bench, but unfortunately, the previously repaired lead was still loose if used in any other position.I had "bodged" the connections on the lead several times in the past, the last time using a "generic" barrel connector which was easier to terminate than the original.This time, I located the original in the "odds n' sods" & by "holding my tongue just right" reterminated it, sealed the plug with "hot snot" & heatshrink tubing.It all works OK, now, but my battery died a while back, & I was hoping that I could hold out opening the laptop up till I could replace that whilst it was open for the other job.Predictably, the battery arrived a week later.

author: ME
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 12:03:19 am
content: All laptops iv'e worked on require 19volts not 12!.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 12:19:38 am
content: Quote from: ME on February 27, 2025, 12:03:19 amI have encountered laptops that require 12 Volts not 19.See the review of the OP's tablet/laptop athttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcrrsW3Ct0Y.The PSU is shown at 2:34 and despite the poor focus it is just possible to see 12V written on it.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 05:49:10 am
content: This is a very common problem when solder connections on the jack are cracked. Some older laptops had the latter "semi-floating" with a short pigtail that connects to another plug on the mobo (example), and those tend to be far more reliable unless massively abused, but cost-reduction has all but eliminated them, favouring direct soldering to the mobo instead.In general those using 2S packs will have a 12V input, while those with 3S and 4S packs will use somewhere around 18-21V. This split is due to electrolytic capacitors having 16V and 25V ratings.

author: electroniclearner820327
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 08:38:50 am
content: Quote from: wasedadoc on February 26, 2025, 01:46:12 pmWhy would it not be a case of resoldering the joint?Anyway I tried to open it yesterday and failed miserably.There are 4 screws, which I undid, but that did not seem to loosen anything.I tried prying with a flat head screwdriver and got one 'click' and a bit of space but couldn't open it any more and didn't want to push my luck and risk snapping some of the fasteners.Of course I could go 'all-in' and deliverately snap everything until I get inside and then just tape it back up but if there is no guarantee that it would be just the solder joint seems I could end up worse off.It is behaving a little better today at accepting a charge. Very finicky.Btw the laptop was a very budget one when new at only around £250 about 5 years ago so not a prized possession but it works, to an extent now, and is my main internet access.It was more made as a tablet with keyboard rather than a full fledged laptop so specifications are limited as one would expect.I have been given another older, but better spec for its time, laptop so might focus my efforts on that.Still this one is useful for browsing if I could fix that power socket.What are the bets it will be the power jack joint and possible to fix it?I have already checked the male insert joint and did not see issues on that side of things. Still goo solder connection last time I checked.