hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Current Source Advice Needed- [ For Designing ESR Meters + Vintage Restoration]  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Amarbir[Lynx-India]
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2013, 06:58:12 pm
content: Hello All,I Am Currently Gathering Tools For Designing A Analog ESR Meter .As i would be buying analog meters off the market i need to test then in small mirco amp steps To See The accuracy .I also have many vintage analog instruments and would need the same for testing their meters . What would be the most efficient way to test the same with the minimum amount of money .I would not mind fabricating a DIY project for this if it exists .I need to design the scales of the same so i need a accurate instrument .Please help and pour your suggestion .I know we have many old vintage instrument users here .

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2013, 07:01:42 pm
content: Get one of thesehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/hp-6632b-power-supply-electronic-load-in-uk/msg189825/#msg189825Can sink & source 5A , and is more accurate than most DMM's/Bingo

author: Amarbir[Lynx-India]
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2013, 07:14:50 pm
content: Quote from: bingo600 on March 10, 2013, 07:01:42 pmSir ,Thanks for the heads up on this .Its very heavy and that too in Uk .I would prefer something in US of A . Something smaller .Also i would like to ask how will i find what voltage to drive these meters at ,varying the current part i understand .Will these meters have a datasheet i doubt they will from one place in india i plan to buy but datasheets is a no no in that place damn .

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2013, 08:05:38 pm
content: 1.5V battery, 1M variable resistor in series with the meter movement and a 1k series protection resistor. Use a DMM to measure the low current flow and then vary the pot and write down the deflection versus current indicated on the DMM. Works well for me, I found the cheap analogue meters are pretty sensitive, being around 400uA full scale. Use the DMM to measure the coil resistance as well to help when you calculate the dropping resistor value. Simple and quick, as well as parts that are very likely on hand in your worktop.

author: Amarbir[Lynx-India]
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2013, 10:13:05 am
content: Quote from: SeanB on March 10, 2013, 08:05:38 pmWell,Sean Sir ,I am looking for a instrument
What's this solder I bought?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Chet T16
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2013, 08:06:28 pm
content: I'm trying to Google from my phone and not getting much luck.

author: mrflibble
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2013, 08:24:38 pm
content: Looks like 60/40 (tin/lead) with resin core.

author: img
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2013, 08:39:04 pm
content: Multicore 60EN 309 5C, 60/40 solder.Datasheet:http://www.lion.co.il/d?id=8720434&pos=1Henkel company info:http://www.henkel.com/industrial/application-technologies-2709.htm?nodeid=8797583999118
Logitech Force 3D Pro Joystick teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2013, 10:57:24 pm
content: I have had this joystick for many years and got lots of fun out of it! I had to add wires for a power supply since i lost the original adapter and thought I would do a teardown.Video:http://youtu.be/2CRuWmdaUnMMotor Controller Datasheet:http://www.allegromicro.com/Products/Part-Numbers/UDx2916.aspx

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2013, 01:01:42 am
content: I just realised the video is all fucked up so now I will will reupload, sorry.

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2013, 01:05:38 am
content: http://youtu.be/kezJxCVXryEThis will be it, not uploaded yet though.Again, sorry.
What Are These Good For? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Adler
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2013, 05:59:34 pm
content: Found these in my schools trash room. No idea what they are good for or how to tell if they even work.Metronomic Photometer:I guess this measures light? There is almost nothing in it and I can't get the needle to move by shining lights at it.Takes two 9-volt batteries and they are wires to the output jack, weird...Thornton Amplifier-Power Supply APS-101 - w/ Microwave Generator:I'm a little afraid to plug this in...

author: mark-r
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2013, 06:39:35 pm
content: I wouldn't worry too much about the microwave generator, it'll be lower power and probably X-band (10GHz or thereabouts) - perfectly safe, no worse than a radar speed gun. Without a receiver it's not really much use though.Since the photometer is calibrated in milliwatts I would guess it's used to measure laser power. Try shining a laser pointer at it. Alternatively, if it was paired with the microwave source it could be sensitive to microwaves, which would explain why visible light had no effect.

author: Adler
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2013, 07:05:29 pm
content: I tried the photometer again with fresh batteries and 'lo it works!Interestingly incandescent lighting makes the needle move far more than fluorescent lighting.

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2013, 11:57:41 am
content: Is that photometer what they use to use in photography. My father had a photometer in his darkroom many years ago for checking how even the light was from enlargers he also had a photometer for calibrating his computer monitors.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2013, 12:13:39 pm
content: Quote from: Adler on February 08, 2013, 07:05:29 pmProbably all the infrared.

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2013, 06:38:07 am
content: Have a look around the 'trash room' for another one of those rectangular horn antennas - the receiver. It might be just a horn, with almost nothing but a connector on the back or side of it. Typically there'll be just the horn with a PIN diode at the small end.If you're not interested in playing with it, the obvious alternative is ebay.
Quick201 and quick381 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: img
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2013, 05:12:05 pm
content: Hello,Does anybody here have, or have used, or knows someone who has/has used the following items:Quick201 desoldering toolQuick381 automatic pick-up penI searched YouTube for demos and reviews, but so far without luck.If you know of good quality vacuum desoldering tools or automatic picks, please share your info. I am familiar with Pace ones, and many YouTubers seem to think Hakko808 is good, so let's have more info on non-Hakko and non-Pace stuff.Your experience and opinions are very much appreciated.
Manual solder paste dispenser? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2013, 01:18:20 pm
content: I'm wondering if there is some kind of simple hand tool in which you can place a syringe with solder paste and have it dispense a preset amount of paste. Does anyone know if something like that exists? Experiences?

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2013, 05:41:45 pm
content: I know my dad has things in his dental office that would work for solder paste. They are used for dispensing the various polymers, enamels precursors, etc. that are used in dentistry. Haven't really seen any specifically for solder paste though.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2013, 06:09:33 pm
content: I gotthis one on ebayabout 2 years ago. It was this model exactly but It was not this seller. Price was about the same as this. Works very well and I have had no trouble with it. You will be amazed at what you will use it for once you have one.Don't forget you need a compressed air supply to power these.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2013, 12:34:22 pm
content: @Robrenz: That looks like the right tool for the job. Its not that expensive either. I don't need it right now but was just wondering in case I want to assemble a small series using hot air or a toaster oven.

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2013, 08:57:25 am
content: Here's a (rather terribly lit) video I recorded back in 2011. It was only ~$100 from GLB:http://www.goodluckbuy.com/solder-paste-glue-dropper-liquid-auto-dispenser-controller-klt-982a.htmlIt has an analogue pot for setting dispensing time - DIP switches on the back to set the overall time range (0-1sec, 0-10sec etc). There's no "interval" delay so you just have to keep hitting the foot switch (or wire up a basic ext plugin circuit to do it). Not sure if that feature alone is worth paying $200 for in the link aboveThe circuit board inside is pretty basic - you could easily design your own replacement to do anything you want.Found the old thread I made on it:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/speed-sp982-solder-paste-dispenserOh and make sure you have a moisture trap on your compressor! Otherwise you can get that nasty rusty tank water vapour through your system.
Solder paste for use without stencil - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Mikey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2013, 07:51:43 pm
content: I am looking for some solder paste for use without a stencil.The first I tried to use was thishttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SMD-Solder-Paste-SN96-5Ag3Cu0-5-8g-Syringe-For-phones-Xbox-computers-etc-/121033067714?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item1c2e220cc2and it was no where near easy to use.The problems I had was it would not stick to the board (the paste vas very dry), the parts would not really stick to it either while it was still cold, it was very difficult to get out because it was so dry and trick, and the hole in the end of it was way too big too...So to not do the same mistake again, what should I get? I have seen dave do some smd soldering and the paste there looked much more liquid and seemed to stick to the pads on the pcb.

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2013, 08:21:11 pm
content: I'm looking for beautiful girls.

author: baljemmett
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 03, 2013, 10:15:50 pm
content: Quote from: Mikey on March 03, 2013, 07:51:43 pmOh dear, that's exactly what I bought last week for my first adventures with paste -- didn't want to buy a huge amount of something more expensive if I'm never going to get through it... At least it's not a huge loss if it turns out to be a false economy!Out of interest, did you let it warm up for a few hours before using it?

author: Mikey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2013, 10:17:35 pm
content: Quote from: baljemmett on March 03, 2013, 10:15:50 pmYes, it was well up to room temperature (left it for almost 24 hours in room temperature)

author: baljemmett
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 03, 2013, 10:29:57 pm
content: Quote from: Mikey on March 03, 2013, 10:17:35 pmBugger. Oh well, I guess I'll see how I get on with it when my boards arrive -- maybe it'll work better with a stencil -- and in the meantime I shall wish you luck and follow this thread with interest!

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2013, 10:45:15 pm
content: I found that the eBay special (maybe it was AliExpress special) leaded solder paste was somewhat lacking.We ended up getting a jar ofMulticore stuff from Mektronicsand it's much nicer to work with. Load some into a syringe and off you go.
Yet another AC/DC adaptor, not those China made but this one from Finland - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2013, 05:15:45 am
content: Many households must have tons of these small AC/DC for cellphone chargers lying around, just found out my old Ericsson cellphone charger from mid 90's I guess, and it is badly crushed and cracked while at the bottom pile of unused electronic junks.I'm aware there are many of these AC to DC adaptor teardown/discussion threads in this forum, quite boring since almost all are ended up bashing the low quality stuffs made in China, then I thought why not post yet another one but this time made in Finland.Comments :- Designed with fully discrete components based, no custom switching chip, the only ic is LM358 soic op-amp at secondary side.- All bottom PCB components have those tiny "glue" spots oozed out at their side, its to hold them when in solder bath, just watch closely at the close up shots.- All electrolyte caps are quality caps made in Japan by Nippon Chemi Con with KMG type.And yes, its still fully working fine with good regulation and as expected with pretty good ripple too.OK, I will just let the attached photos below to speak for it self.Enjoy.

author: lapm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2013, 10:16:02 am
content: From time when engineers in Finland were still worth something. Since then goverment nerfed education system big time...Sadly i was in school at time that nerfing hit. More byrocracy, less teaching.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2013, 10:33:13 am
content: Quote from: lapm on February 26, 2013, 10:16:02 amI can see you're from Finland, I guess seeing this thing must generated quite some feeling.Btw, when was that "education nerfing" era started ?

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2013, 09:36:46 am
content: How big/small is that thing? "7.6V/600mA" that is around 5W at the output so say a 7W mains transformer would suffice. You'd need a 7W transformer, a bridge, one electrolytic cap, an LM317 type of regulator maybe on which you'd drop 1.5V (so make the transformer 9W for good measure), two resistors and an extra electrolytic cap at the output. You'd have a dead simple circuit, cleaner output, no parasitic switching frequencies, and it'd work forever.As a matter of fact that is exactly how I built a 2A/5V transformer to power my wireless access point which is in the loft and which had thus far destroyed two brand new AC/DC adapters those funky SM types because of the temperature range in the loft I guess. Probably in its 4th/5th year now working great up there (touches wood).

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2013, 12:13:20 pm
content: Besides the capacitors, this one also has an inductor on the output which is probably what reduces the ripple a lot; the cheaper ones often omit it.

author: daijo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 28, 2013, 06:57:57 am
content: Just FYI, the text "ENDAST FÖR KONTORSMASKINER" is Swedish and translates to "FOR OFFICE EQUIPMENT ONLY".
Jaycar Powertech 1500va UPS circuit/schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: pauln
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2013, 01:14:00 am
content: During a recent power outage my UPS failed to work!! Anyway checking the batteries showed they we U/S. Replaced and all seemed OK i.e. they charged up OK. On test with a load connected the unit switches over OK - but shows no load % used, then shuts down after a couple on minutes. The manual mentions if the UPS "appears to see no load" it will turn it self off after a minute or 2. The unit appears to work otherwise i.e. the capacity decrements as expected. So I guess if there is some way to turn off the "no load" option it would be a cheap fix, otherwise looking for ideas or circuit.Thank You

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2013, 02:08:42 am
content: If you contact Jaycar they will most likely provide you with the schematic.Regards

author: pauln
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2013, 02:27:05 am
content: Quote from: PeterG on March 05, 2013, 02:08:42 amAlready tried phone and email to Jaycar - and a personal request to local store - with out success. Hence my post.
SMD Hot Air Machines [ Schematics And Working Help Required ] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Amarbir[Lynx-India]
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2013, 03:45:43 pm
content: Hello All ,In Indian we have SMD rework Machines For Many Vendors .We also have a local manufacturer called MAX .In the market we have lion king , Quick Etc . Can someone provide me with some kind of schematics And general working of these basic machines .I have a few questions1 : What king of supply does the heater work on is it AC/DC or Something else .Can i Measure The Same At the Wires In The Wand Side .2 : Heating Element Change Issue : Example Max 8550 Machines [ Have Micro soldering iron + 1.5 to 18 Volts 1 Amp Supply + Hot Air ] .The heater is a two wire type " only two wires from the machine come out to the wand " .The supply passes through a component marked KSD 9700 250 Volt 5A 90 Degree Celcius In a Heating Element i was using " Original Once Marking is " YV 9700 250V 5A 95 Degree Celcius " and goes to one side of heating coil ,then the other end of the heating wire coil goes to the tip end side and back to base connection area .When i Replace The Element and switch the heat on Boom the heater wire blows up and the element is end of life .Whats going on ,if there a trick to this ,what could be the issue .Someone told me to flip the cables coming to the heater as sometimes the this component side and heater element side could be flipped .
How do you take care of your cables? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2013, 06:45:03 am
content: I noticed that my Pomona Banana cables are getting harder. Is there any way to rejuvenate them? On some of them the cable degraded and became brittle so they are already ruined.Is there a way to re solder the ends of the Pomona stackable banana plugs?

author: Huluvu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2013, 09:57:28 am
content: How old are those mentioned cables?I own some very old cables which may became a little bit dirty or even be damaged by excessive use, but no brittleHave you exposed them to direct sunlight for a long time period?I would not recommend to re solder them.RgdsArne

author: ftransform
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2013, 11:56:39 am
content: I wonder if the product Armor-all can help extend the life of cables. I had an OLD triplet multimeter which had the symptoms that casinada describes.I think they may have been made of rubber though.

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2013, 11:20:09 pm
content: Armor-All is not the best. It's pretty much derided on auto-detailing forums because it can actually draw moisture out of the plastic/rubber over time. Which necessitates applying it more and more often.There are a variety of other types recommended. The one I use the most often is 303 Aerospace Protectant. I use it at work on the butyl rubber gloves and o-rings on our glove box because the fluorescent lights and chemical fumes wreak havoc on them.

author: ftransform
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2013, 03:03:55 am
content: Quote from: PedroDaGr8 on February 09, 2013, 11:20:09 pmAre you sure about that, I thought around 1990 armor-alls formula changed in order to avoid this problem.

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2013, 04:07:06 am
content: Aerospace 303 works for me, not just for looks but it slows down degrading due to UV damage. I am not sure if it would rejuvenate old materials. I believe there is no general purpose product that works on all material.

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2013, 06:02:36 am
content: I had the Cables Boxed in the Garage for probably 18 years, they were not exposed to light but probably changes in temperature. It is very dry in here and the temperature in the garage can vary from 40F to 90FIn general I use soapy water to clean anything electronic, sometimes I use GooGone to get rid of more stubborn gunk. Most of the Pomona cables were used when I got them so I don't know in what environment they were exposed to. I know that they aged differently so probably they were exposed to different elements or I got a particular batch that wasn't very good to start with.

author: billclay
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2013, 11:32:32 pm
content: The cables have probably lost some of their dielectric strength in that condition, so I would not use them for any hazardous voltages, as there will be leakage.
Rigol DS4014 Strange Waveform - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: AlanM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 17, 2012, 01:56:53 pm
content: Hi everyone,I am hoping someone has seen something like this before. I am looking at the signal output (using a Rigol DS4014 with RP3500 probe) of a step up transformer that is driving a piezo transducer at 175vac p/p, 41Khz, eight pulses every 250mS. I have tried AC and DC coupling combinations on the Channel input and trigger types (amongst many other combinations of source and trigger settings) and I just cannot understand or improve the difference in these two waveforms. The signal appears to be fine at 5v/div and higher but when selecting 2v/div (and lower). a strange sine wave appears. It may well be a characteristic of the electronic circuit but cannot see why the two settings (5v/div and 2v/div) should be so different. I have tried a Tektronics TDS210 and the signals are fine (no sine wave) but the DS4014 may be using it's higher resolution to pick something out? Surely it wouldn't appear just at 2v/div and lower?Rigol have been far from helpful.Thanks for any help or suggestions,Alan

author: tinhead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2012, 03:25:07 pm
content: look for me as distortion (self oscilation of input stage) due too high Vpp voltage. Every DSO will ast here complettly different, some will "overdrive", some clip the wave and others will autoset back to 5V or more DIVs.

author: AlanM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 13, 2013, 12:51:21 pm
content: Very pleased to say that Rigol have sorted the problem for me. A change of probe was all that was needed.I love this scope!!Thank you Rigol.
PHOTO DUMP - teardown mod and testing of DIEHARD gold 425W inverter (US market) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jaqie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2013, 10:31:51 am
content: I will write up a teardown and testing walkthrough along with a review later, for now this is a photo dump of the pictures I took. This took a long time to upload them through my cellphone nethttp://foxtecha.com/pics/projects/diehard_inverter/full res photos along with 640x480 preview with -t on their filename.A few highlights:Actually looks kinda OK.The LED tree and no insulation on the high voltage parts?Wait... something's missing hereHOW!?!?Time to start testing...Spot on! Works as well as two meters, I love this thing!Looks like it works fine with my 35w soldering iron... the bench PSU is not PFC nor very efficient.Booting a pentium II 300MHz PC off of the rube goldberg goes electronics tower - and it works!

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2013, 04:48:12 am
content: Nice large pictures in the link! If you have an oscilloscope, can you see if the output waveforms have any distortion or spikes? How is the voltage level if you put a higher load (4 x 100W lamp, for example)?
Kit for using SMD on your breadboard - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: notsob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2013, 12:17:29 am
content: For those who haven't looked at Bruce Trump's blog, thanks RichardD for the link -http://e2e.ti.com/blogs_/b/thesignal/default.aspxhere's a product from the TI Store that will help getting those SOT's onto your breadboard.http://e2e.ti.com/blogs_/b/thesignal/archive/2012/12/17/breadboarding-with-micro-packages-ouch.aspxhttp://www.ti.com/tool/dip-adapter-evm

author: andyturk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2013, 07:42:05 am
content: "Available for backorder"

author: jaqie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2013, 07:47:48 am
content: I think sparkfun has a whole bunch of breakout boards for such things available...I've seen a whole bunch there.

author: notsob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2013, 07:52:15 am
content: Easy solution - add up the number of sub-boards per dollar

author: andyturk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2013, 07:58:47 am
content: Quote from: jaqie on February 10, 2013, 07:47:48 amYeah, but Sparkfun charges a buck a pop for their little adaptors. The TI EVM is $10 for six each of six different packages.I just noticed that you can download the gerbers free of charge from TI's website... Maybe a group order?
hot glue gun - accessories for heat shrink tubing - needed? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: adam1213
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2013, 11:10:32 am
content: I am probably going to order a Steinel GlueMatic glue gun and was wondering if is ok to simply shrink heat shrink tubing with the standard nozzles or if it is worth getting an accessory to do this. e.g. if I do get one I wouldn't want to damage it.Previously I have been using a crappy $20 glue gun with a nozzle that almost coming out and using the nozzle directly for melting tubing.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2013, 02:23:54 pm
content: Using a hot glue gun to melt heat shrink? Huh?If you mean to use one of their hot air guns, that would make sense to me.If you have an open space (reduced heating of surrounding areas that may not take well to it), a smaller round nozzle will do fine (concentrates, but doesn't shield). Presumes you can manipulate the gun or wire to make sure the heat shrink is heated all the way around. Examplehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/07062-Steinel-9mm-Reduction-Nozzle-new-/150759209634?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2319f2faa2In a tight space, a round + shield is handy (helps keep heat out of places you don't want it, as well as can help heat the opposite side when manipulating the wire and/or gun isn't as easy to perform). Examplehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/STEINEL-07061-REFLECTOR-NOZZLE-FOR-STEINEL-ELECTRONIC-HEAT-GUNS-/251225557626?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7e35ca7a

author: adam1213
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2013, 09:46:35 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 08, 2013, 02:23:54 pmGood point. I have found that glue guns suck at making heat shrink tubing shrink easily e.g. have to apply it to all sides often getting results that don't look so nice etc. Most of the time I use a glue gun for gluing purposes and occasionally use it on heat shrink.Unless there are heat guns that work very nicely as glue guns I might get the glue gun and a separate heat gun.Continued inhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/cheap-tools-for-shrinking-heat-shrink-tubing
A teardown/reverse Eng'g of a Golden Dragon light assembly - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: KeithBrown
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2013, 07:18:42 pm
content: I just posted a page on my personal site about these lights. Seehttp://www.island.net/~kdbrown/GoldenDragon.php.Andif you are Canadian and live anywhere near a Loblaws Superstore, at least read the first paragraph!

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 01:03:52 pm
content: Thanks for the schematic, in the other thread I found the MCUis an Elan.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 05:37:06 pm
content: Quotethen i won't buy your ligt. i don't know that processor. i want one with an ARM in it !Elan is a company that deals with cheap , mass produced parts. keyboardcontrollers, touch chips, front panel chips ( rip any wingpangpong dvd or blu ray player apart and theres a good change the display and buttons are controlled by an elan chip.A lot of their chips are naked-die...

author: KeithBrown
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2013, 03:44:19 pm
content: Quote from: free_electron on February 06, 2013, 05:37:06 pmWell, when they start making ARMs in 6-pin SOT-23s I'll consider it! I'd have to dust off my ARM coding skills though: it has been more than 10 years since I used one!
New Smart Phone Motorola Droid HD - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Homer J Simpson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2013, 08:59:39 pm
content: Just wanted to share my quick thoughts on my new smart phone purchase.Like most of us here I have always be an early adopter on new tech. The smart phone - texting thing was my one exception.With my contract expiring and pressure from coworkersI decided to make the leap from my old basic flip phone.Doing the research I was strongly leaning towards a Motorola Razr HD. At the last minute I decided to go with an iPhone. It was cheaper and had compatibility with Itunes I was already using. I thought it would be "good enough". I got the Iphone on Friday and used it for a couple of days. I started to have that buyers remorse thing. I knew if I did not exchange for my droid I would regret it.I went back on Sunday and exchanged it for the droid.The Iphone was a very nice phone, build quality, screen, ect.It's biggest annoyance for me was lack of a message indicator. You have to turn the phone on and look at the screen to check for messages. I know there was built in ability to flash the camera led but only for 20 min max.For me the customization available with the Android OS was big.This is a beautiful phone!The carbon fiber back and gorilla glass front are fantastic. I have just begun to learn all you can do with the Android OS and all of the apps. The specs and features are a mile long.I know the Apple is a great product but I encourage any one getting ready to get a smart phone soon to check out the Razr HD.There are tons of reviews on YouTube.KT

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 02:59:10 pm
content: Why not a HTC? A HTC just eclipses the other makers in terms of build quality and beautyEspecially the Droid DNA, double the speed of the Galaxy S3 which is 20% faster than a iP5Apple phones are not "great".
Fixing Tektronix S-6 sampling head - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mazurov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2013, 06:15:43 am
content: http://www.circuitsathome.com/measurements/repairing-tektronix-s-6-sampling-headI was lucky this time :-)

author: muvideo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2013, 08:21:23 am
content: Hello, good to know,watching the pics I noticed that SMAmale connectros have a little hole ontheir side. I'm wondering if there isa reason they are built this way,just curious.Fabio.

author: mazurov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2013, 08:39:36 am
content: The holes are actually filled with epoxy-like stuff and seem to be specific to sampler input - maybe a filler with some weird velocity factor? My S-4 input connector has the same pair of holes whereas S-53 output connector doesn't have them. The 7T11A trigger input connector doesn't have them either. These are all SMA connectors in Tektronix equipment I have. What about your 7A29 - does it have female SMA connectors with side holes?

author: muvideo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2013, 09:00:18 am
content: About the 7A29, the two I unmated have no holes,I didnt disconnect the others, but they are veryshort and seem that there are no holes in them.But watching the rear of the SMA that connectto the attenuator, the back is filled with somethingthat looks like clear epoxy, machined to be flat.Maybe the holes are used in the assembly processto inject the filler in the connectors.If they are there for reasons connected to theirelectrical behaviour, maybe this matters onlywith things that are specified to work attens of GHz BW, if I'm not mistaken S6 shouldshow 30pS risetime, that's more than 10GHz BW.Fabio.
Snooker Game Teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: steve30
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2013, 08:45:42 pm
content: I was looking through some boxes in the loft the other day and came across my old little snooker game. I used to have quite a lot of fun with this.Basically, you just move the cursor around the table using the right and left keys, then use the power button to determine the amount of power to apply to the ball, and the ball moves in the direction of the cursor.The first photo shows the unit itself.The second photo shows the rear of the unit. It takes two AAA cells.The third photo shows its PCB. The PCB itself looks quite nice, but those components look a little dodgy. There's also a little piezo speaker.The fourth photo shows the other side of the PCB with the blob chip. I wonder what the chip actually is. Probably some custom device?The fifth photo shows the LCD display, with several seven segment displays and the matrix of snooker balls.The sixth photo shows the snooker table background.BTW, the game still works fine, and is still fun.
HELP: HAKKO 850 hot air station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheEENerd
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2013, 05:10:07 am
content: G day folks, just wondering anyone own a HAKKO 850 hot air station and able to post some photos of main board and inside. I'm getting a ATTEN 850, would like to make a comparision. Thanks heaps.

author: Adler
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2013, 11:35:57 pm
content: I just got one of these.Posted pics here..https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-850-hot-air-rework-station/
4-wire (Kelvin) ohmmeters?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ilikepez
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2013, 03:47:38 am
content: I'm trying to find an inexpensive one or maybe a kit for accurate low ohm measurement. I did some google searches without much luck and I was wondering if anyone has ideas for one. I use an electronic cigarette and some people make their own heating coils out of kanthal wire. Any suggestions? Mostly its going to be for winding coils in the 1-4 ohm range.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2013, 04:17:54 am
content: If you dont need high traceable accuracy just use a power supply as a current source and measure the voltage drop with your voltmeter. Calculate the resistance from the actual current and voltage.

author: ilikepez
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2013, 05:04:04 am
content: I know I can do that. My meter actually will work fine, but I'm looking for something that a fairly inexperienced person could use and get consistent results with little hassle.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2013, 04:38:20 pm
content: My #1 recommendation is a IET Labs DE-5000 LCR meter. This unit will giveveryaccurate 4 wire ohms to 1 Milli ohm resolution. By using the 1kHz series resistance mode all thermal emf errors are cancelled which is very important at single digit ohms and below. I have compared this unit to my calibrated micro ohm meter and it is extremely accurate. For $330 you get L and C and ESR meter for free. AFIK you will not find a Milli ohm meter this accurate for this price.
Philips MP3 teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Aleksolder
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2013, 04:45:22 am
content: I'm going to teardown a Philips SA3MXX04PC MP3 player sometime this coming week. If anyone is interested in anything about this device, let me know and I'll try to discover the answer. If anyone has suggestions for how to go about it (ie techniques), I'll be glad to hear them, since I haven't taken anything apart before.I'll be looking in particular at the battery, the physical layout (very tight), the flash for storing the files, and the display (marvellous 128x64 color LCD). I don't mind destroying the device.The only special tools I have are the Salaea Logic logic analyzer, a Fluke Scopemeter (it has minimal capture), and a USB microscope.If it's possible to post pics, I will do so if requested.I've cross-posted to edaboard and avrfreaks (where someone suggested to crosspost here; this is the last crosspost, three places is more than enough to share with!).I've just joined here, not sure what you folks are all about yet, but perhaps some people here are interested in this kind of device. Toss me out on my ear if I've overstepped any local cultural boundariesAleksander

author: adam1213
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2013, 11:33:36 am
content: Welcome to the forum. Well done posting about a tear down, its a nice start.Quote from: Aleksolder on February 01, 2013, 04:45:22 amI hope you enjoy taking it apart. Note that when once first start taking things apart things often break. It takes a while before you learn a few tricks. e.g. wires are weak - if the case comes apart with wires going between sides be careful that they don't get pulled. Screws are some times hidden. Cases are occasionally held together with clips. if you have washed a few of the videos here you will probably have picked up on how to disassemble things efficiently. Having a good collection of screwdrivers helps. e.g. common sizes including small ones. A large number of screw drives is not necessarily but in some cases is very useful.Please post pictures (maybe with some comments)Pictures of the insides of a lot of mp3 players can be found onhttp://www.rockbox.org/.For example the insides of a different philips player can be found onhttp://www.rockbox.org/wiki/GoGearSA9200info.Though I don't see details on them opening it up.
Video of an Array Electronic load testing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2013, 03:41:59 am
content: I finally got around to play with my Array Electronic load. I hooked it up to a 30V 6A for a power of 180 watts. The heatsink stayed at about 47C. Look like it has a lot of safety/power margin.The fan is loud and its speed increase with power demand. So please excuse the load fan noise.Robert
ABB Metrawatt M2004 – still no manual/specs but now with photos! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: martin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2013, 05:35:12 pm
content: I got an ABB Metrawatt M2004 Multimeter from ebay. I used the same meter 18 years ago as an apprentice and somehow got sentimental when I saw it.After trying to find specs and a manual, I try my luck here. Does anyone have a manual or the specs of the meter?

author: martin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 28, 2013, 05:35:14 pm
content: Today it arrived and I've torn it apart for pictures. I guess this must be the most elaborate case ever made for a multimeter, but then there seem to be no fuses (see pictures).

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2013, 07:43:46 pm
content: 2 spark gaps, 2 PTC thermistors. I think the leads themselves have fuses in them. that would be typical of Asea Brown Boveri design. Leads that split apart and reveal the fuse inside.This thing has a Z80 processor built into it to do the glue logic.Love those switches.........
"Power Bank" tear down - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mianchen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2013, 06:07:02 pm
content: Bought this on eBay so I can use some Li-ion batteries salvaged from laptop battery pack to power my mobile phones, USB devices and whatnot while out and about. Before I use it, I torn it down and see if it is safe. Here are some photos of this thing.

author: mianchen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2013, 06:14:21 pm
content: Overall built quality seems 'ok'. But I don't like the parallel set up for batteries - Is charging each cell individually much more expensive? Is this safe?There is a 'range' switch on the side you can switch between 2/1/0.5A output - what is the purpose of this? I've measured it with constant current load, each range did provide the nominal current with no significant voltage drop on the output. However if I tried to draw 2A from the lower range, the output voltage dropped to below 3 volts.Any advise against using these kind of 'power bank'?

author: icpart
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2013, 09:53:54 pm
content: Hi I'm also interested about quality of these cheap 18650 mobile charges.Can you post a image with marks on it with types of used IC's on PCB.

author: mianchen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2013, 11:37:56 pm
content: Quote from: icpart on January 27, 2013, 09:53:54 pmThey rubbed off the markings on those ICs :<

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2013, 09:07:11 am
content: Any idea how many charge-state LEDs there are and what they're connected to? Same for the current range switch.If it's a standard battery management IC, there aren't that many of them with this particular feature, and if it's a uC then ity also shouldn't be too hard to figure out.Lion is fine to parallel as long as they are the same type and capacity, and must start out at the exact same voltage. The issue with ensuring they're the same voltage is probably why 3p is the max for most laptop packs; 4 may be too much.Those Moli cells aren't particularly high capacity nor high discharge rate...

author: icpart
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2013, 06:48:02 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on January 28, 2013, 09:07:11 amNot they don't use any uC for battery capacity measurements. The LEDs show only approximate battery voltage. For driving the leds is used a op-amps which works as comparators and are set at fixed battery voltage to turn on corresponding LED.Thanks mianchen for your answer.Also in some pictures over similar items in ebay you can see some names of these chinese branded IC's.
plastic or ceramic adjustment tools - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Homer J Simpson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2013, 03:13:37 pm
content: I have a set of Wiha slotted and Phillips ceramic screwdrivers for RF adjustments.I am trying to find some in Hex. I know in the old days they were very common for TV repair. I remember seeing some that were double ended plastic but I can not find them for sale.I am sure I am not using the right search phrase when I am looking.If any one has seen these on Ebay, ect please let me know.Thanks

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2013, 06:50:18 pm
content: I am not a native speaker, but I think they are also called alignment tools. With that I e.g. findhttp://www.tecratools.com/product1120.html

author: Homer J Simpson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2013, 06:59:27 pm
content: Thanks.That was exactly what I was looking for.
TM902C Digital Thermometer ... Info? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Pat Pending
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2013, 02:56:08 am
content: Has anyone located pictures of the inside of the cheap TM902C Digital Thermometer?

author: iloveelectronics
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2013, 03:04:19 am
content: Quote from: Pat Pending on January 24, 2013, 02:56:08 amI will have them in my eBay store. Will post some pictures later.

author: iloveelectronics
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2013, 05:10:46 pm
content: Here are a few pics.

author: Pat Pending
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2013, 07:39:30 pm
content: Thank you for sharing the internal pics.I had wanted to know how much free space was left insidethe enclosure so that it could be re-purposed as a small form factor project box.It looks well packed as is.
Tutorial Video Loop compensation of a multiple output flyback Part 4 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2013, 05:33:13 am
content: Here is part 4 in the series of loop compensation and using Jack Alexander AC model.Part 4, Loop compensation of a multiple output flybackPart 1, Introduction of Jack Alexander's modelPart 2 Verification of Jack's modelPart 3 Simulation of a Voltage Mode flyback using Jack's model
Extech EX-470 erratic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: John Wilson
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 27, 2012, 07:27:31 pm
content: I just received a new EX-470 this morning. The meter exhibits very erratic behaviour. Are these prone to this?It won't turn on for Amps or Capacitance at all. Otherwise, when I turn the dial it will turn on about 1/3 of the time. The readings are strange - 2 AA NiMh batteries read 4800 volts DC first, then 2.48 VDc then slowly went down to almost 0 volts. The continuity does not work at all. The IR temperature shows over 4,000 degrees C when aimed at the wall.The battery is good and there's no low-voltage icon on the display. I can only assume that the meter is defective?john

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2012, 07:53:41 pm
content: I think defective is an understatement for this meter, I'd call it FUBAR

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2012, 09:49:05 pm
content: Quote from: John Wilson on December 27, 2012, 07:27:31 pmYep.

author: John Wilson
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 27, 2012, 10:55:13 pm
content: It's already in the post. Hopefully I get a refund without any problems.

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2013, 10:19:43 pm
content: Replying to an old thread, but hopefully it will be still useful.I have got one of these too, also had such behaviour. On mine it seems that the range switch is bad, when you push on it, it sometimes goes back to normal. I think they have some quality control issue.Fortunately the seller sent me another one free of charge and didn't even want this one back.

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2013, 04:22:29 am
content: Quote from: janoc on January 29, 2013, 10:19:43 pmYes they have, specially with EX models, I didn't mention in my own topic anymore just because it was not worth it, but the EX570 I send back to Extech had some selector switch problems too, meter was resetting at least in two ranges, it was ridiculous for a meter at that price range.Posted from mobile phone with taptalk.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 30, 2013, 05:23:16 am
content: Old thread, old news about Extech EX series. I am just glad I didn't end up buying one of this series. I think Russian Roulette has better chances.