FLIR One Gen2 failure investigation + FULL RESET method by Fraser - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 11:02:27 pm
content: I have just knowingly bought a faulty F1G2 Android that has the 'lights on, nobody home' failure symptom. I bought it in order to investigate what causes this apparently quite common failure.When the camera arrives, hopefully this week, I will dismantle it and carry out some basic checks. Sadly I am not in a position to meddle with the ARM processor configuration, so if that is corrupted it will be 'game over'. If the problem is a discrete component or physical failure I may be able to shed some light on the matter.At worst I will learn more about the F1G2 Android and I will have a spares donor with a nice LEPTON 3 on it.The daft thing is that I could likely sell the tested LEPTON 3 on ebay for more than I paid or the whole faulty camera ! I wonder how much FLIR are asking for a Lepton 3 these days ?I will also be able to experiment with the LEPTON 3 lens system without risking either of my my working F1G2 units Lepton's as well. The position of the FFC shutter is a bit inconvenient but that can be overcome. Bill W may be doing some experimentation with the optics as well. I have some very nice mini Germanium optical blocks to play withI will update this thread as and when I have any news. No promises though as the F1G2 does not strike me as the most repairable of thermal cameras.Fraser

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2017, 12:38:49 am
content: Cool. Looking forward to the repair, etc., Fraser.

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2017, 02:40:55 pm
content: From my experiments, the most likely cause is the Lepton becoming unseated. Had that a lot.Another could be using an extension lead. This is why I have not posted latelyas most USB extension leads are not useful. Most are set up for OTG while the F1G2 needs either all 5 wires or not OTG pin grounded. I ended up buying the bits and making my own after 3 dud purchases and slicing the 3rd one apart to investigate.Bill

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2017, 02:52:34 pm
content: Hi Bill,Thanks for that useful informationI will be receiving the faulty camera tomorrow. I will check the LEPTON for good seating in its holder.I suspect these cameras get dropped, which could cause parts to pop out of holders etc.Fraser

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2017, 07:42:43 pm
content: I had considered an extension lead, but hadn't looked into it yet. Thanks for that heads up, Bill.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 03:39:07 pm
content: The faulty F1G2 arrived today.It looks like new and came with both the Micro USB adapters that FLIR released to provide connector reversal or exetensionThe investigation beginsFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 05:01:54 pm
content: Oh well, that was pretty boring !The F1G2 is now working fineThe fault ? It had crashed.I plugged the F1G2 into the charger and it did not illuminate the green charge LED. The power button was illuminated constant orange and the camera would not boot. No amount of plugging/unplugging or attempts to reset the camera worked.Disconnection of the Lithium battery and re-connection initiated a cold boot of the camera and it immediately started to function normally. First the power button lit red plus orange, then it flashed, then extinguished. The FFC shutter could be heard to activate.There was an interesting finding though. The battery connector is a POS. ANY movement of the battery cable moves the contact surfaces and the camera reboots from cold. Such a situation can cause system crashes as the varying supply due to poor contact can generate all sorts of cr*p on the power input rail. Any power watchdog circuit gets multiple sequential restart situations and keeps resetting the processor. Eventually the camera crashes and a full power off reset is needed.This requires removal of the battery connector. I proved this during testing by deliberately moving the battery cable a few times until the camera locked up. It was easily reset by disconnection of the battery.FLIR have used a particularly poor connector for the battery. An attempt was made to stabilise it using a piece of adhesive foam but that will not prevent movement of the contacts if the camera is given a bump.I tested the camera without the battery fitted and it does boot. It then flashes a battery fault code using the green charge LED. It was not doing that when received as the processor was not a happy bunny.All is working correctly now and the camera will go through some testing to check for any other issues.Fraser

author: tomas123
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 06:58:58 pm
content: Works the camera fine without the battery (after successful booting)?I thing about removing the battery from case for non-stop operations (24/7).

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 07:25:11 pm
content: It booted fine but I did not try running it on the phone without a battery. I cannot say how it will behave without a battery for long periods of time. The power circuits could generate quite a bit of heat which may cause internal thermal issues.I may have another play with the camera at the weekend but I have a few other tasks to complete first.Fraser

author: tomas123
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 08:14:42 pm
content: Thank you

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 08:24:40 pm
content: This is the first I've heard of it locking up like that. Very interesting. Glad you were able to narrow down the cause. I'll keep that in mind should mine ever get stuck.Being able to run it without the internal battery would be nice, especially for desktop use.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 09:23:19 pm
content: I do not think that lots of F1G2 cameras lock up but you do see cameras being sold as faulty on eBay. The symptoms are usually "will not switch on". I suspect some suffer from a less than perfect life and get bumped a lot or it may just be that some have less than perfect battery connections ? I checked for dry joints on the battery connector.... none found. I will secure the battery connector wick a suitable non permanent adhesive such as UHU or Bostick No.1I have had the camera running in a cycle of discharge then charge, discharge then charge all evening and it is working perfectly.I advised the seller that I had repaired the camera. He was thrilled and said he wanted to take a look inside but could not find a way in ! I feel sorry for the chap and have offered to sell the camera back to him with a small additional fee for my work.Fraser

author: RGB255_0_0
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 09:28:05 pm
content: I guess that felt/sponge atop the connector is supposed to help stop them from coming out. Maybe they should have gone with a slide-in style low-profile connector if common JST is too bulky. I'll take care when I sling mine into the draw from now on.

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 10:25:49 pm
content: Quote from: Fraser on March 02, 2017, 09:23:19 pm

author: nowlan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2017, 05:06:56 am
content: Was there no warranty on the device? Feel like flir could have sussed it out.

author: Uho
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2017, 07:53:19 pm
content: What is the actual battery life time? My Flir only works 30 minutes.

author: tomas123
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2017, 08:04:12 pm
content: see my rundown test: 57minhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/flir-one-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown-and-hacks/msg848878/#msg848878

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2017, 09:26:31 pm
content: I did a run time test on the repaired F1G2 to cycle the battery. Run time was 1 hour of continuous operation.I have seen F1G2 cameras for sale with a stated fault of low battery capacity. There may be a battery quality issue at work here.If your camera is under warranty, I recommend you contact FLIR and get it looked at.If not, the battery is nothing special and another foilpack Lithium unit so fitting one of the same dimensions and capacity is feasible. The battery connector and leads will need to be transplanted onto the new battery as the connector is tiny and I do not know its maker or ID.Fraser

author: Chanc3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2017, 11:07:26 am
content: Quote from: Fraser on March 14, 2017, 09:26:31 pmThis sounds spot on. We bought one to take to meets etc, but wouldn't charge after the first day of use! Back to Amazon it goes for full refund. I've been told the Gen3 models are a vast improvement.

author: Woodside
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 23, 2017, 09:20:59 pm
content: I bought a new unopened Flir One 2nd Gen from ebay in February. For the first week, it worked fine, although my phone (OnePlus One) got extremently hot whislt the phone was connected.After around a week, when I plugged it into the phone, the phone shut off. The only solution was to remove the camera and the phone would then restart.Flir, would not accept the device under warranty as I had not purchased from an Authorised Reseller.Investigation revealed that the Vbus pin on the micro USB connector on the F1G2 was shorted to earth. So after the F1G2 had been identified as an OTG device and the phone took Vbus high, it was being shorted to earth. Presumably the battery protection on the phone cut off the supply.The problem was a solder bridge on the back of the 4 pin connector on the USB connector board.With the solder bridge removed, the camera now works again regarding the led indicators, charging etc.and the phone no longer shuts down.Unfortunately, when I plug it into the phone, most of the time the Flir App doesnt regognise the camera and when it does, it show an image for about a second before it freezes and then goes black. I have also tried it on another OnePlus one and a Samsung Galaxy SII (flashed to Android 4.4.4), both of which behave the same

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2017, 10:31:30 pm
content: There is another dead FLIR ONE G2 on its way to me. Charges OK, Orange led lights, but no one at homeMaybe this one will be more interesting than a simple iffy power connector ?Fraser

author: newex
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2017, 04:21:00 pm
content: Do not be flattered about the ease of such repairs.Fraser is just luckyI bought two dead F1G2.The first for iOs, the second for android. The first one had a faulty charge controller.For the second, the reball processor was required. When I removed the processor, a large number of pads were gray.Therefore, if you do not have experience with the bga, you can spend money for nothing.

author: Woodside
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 25, 2017, 12:38:18 pm
content: QuoteWhat were the symptoms exhibited by the two dead F1G2s you had?I have not purchased a dead F1G2, mine has gone faulty. With careful timing of switching it on and plugging into the phone (android) I can get a display for a few seconds and then the display freezes.Malcolm

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2017, 01:08:24 pm
content: OK, my next F1G2 patient has arrived.As suspected, the camera is as new in the box with all accessories including the USB port reversal adapterThe camera appears unused and has no marks on it at all. I strongly suspect that this is a customer return that was DOA rather than failing in service.Symptoms of the units failure:1. Will not turn on using the power button.2. When USB charger plugged in, Power button lights Orange and pulses every 18 seconds.3. With charger connected, there is no green charge LED lit.4. With charger connected camera remains unresponsive to the power button.5. There are no signs of life from the camera beyond the Orange power button LED.My kitten, Billy, has carried out a 'Cat scan' on the unit and declared it "of no interest" so he will leave it to me to repairThe first step in the repair process will be to open the case and disconnect the battery connector, clean and inspect it, and then reconnect it.I will not be that surprised if the camera then comes back from the deadMore news when I get time to open the camera.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2017, 08:31:58 pm
content: First progress report on the cameras state.1. The battery removal and refitting trick did not work for this patient.2. The 3.7V LiPo cell p.d read 3.0V but was not locked out by the protection PCB.3. I could cause changes in the behaviour of the camera by connecting and disconnecting the battery/USB charger cable. The Amber LED would go from solid to flashing and remain flashing for a short time after charger disconnection. I believe this to be due to the discharged LiPo cell.4. My LiPo charger refused to see the cell which indicates that its p.d was below acceptable levels for the charger.5. The LiPo cell was briefly charged on a Lab PSU at 3.7V Current limited to 350mA. After a few minutes the current dropped below the 350mA limit. The cell was transferred to the LiPo charger and this time the charger was happy to begin a normal charge cycle.More later when the LiPo is charged and tested.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2017, 10:19:25 pm
content: OK, Patient resuscitated and healthyThe LiPo cell was charged and refitted in the camera. The camera only illuminated the Orange power button LED and could not be shut down.The camera appeared to be in a permanent 'on' state but not booting. This would explain the fact that when connected to the USB charger the power LED lit ORANGE and stayed on.In order to reset the camera to its correct stand-by state and normal operation I carried out the following reset routine after some experimentation1. Disconnect the LiPo cell from the PCB2. Connect the USB charging cable. The Orange Power button LED will light3. Press and hold the Power button until the Power button LED extinguishes - forced shut-down (If you release the button it will go back to solid Orange again. i.e. no change in state)4. Whilst still holding the Power button in, disconnect the USB charging lead, then release the Power button5. Reconnect the LiPo battery. The Power LED will light Orange.6. Press the Power button. The Power LED will start to flash green and the camera will boot normally7. Press the Power button to switch off the camera8. Push the Power button and the camera will boot normally.The camera is now working normally. It appears that these cameras have somewhat flaky firmware that can get locked into a permanent semi-standby state that will flatten the battery completely (to the cameras 3.0V cut-off point). The only way to recover the firmware to a state that works is to carry out the a full system reset as detailed above. This erased the registers and sets the camera to its factory default conditions. From that point onwards it can boot normally.I seem to recall that FLIR provided some similar instructions to factory Reset the old FLIR ONE Gen1 for iOS. They told people to let the battery go completely flat before a power on reset sequence. I forget the details but my experimentation came up with an equivalent for the F1G2.Hope this helps others.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2017, 10:28:06 pm
content: I just found the reset instructions for the Flir OneGen1....https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/flir-one-personal-infrared-camera-for-iphone5-no-green-light-blinking/msg616240/#msg616240Different to the F1G2 as there is no reset button and the process is different to my procedure. Why the FLIR ONE G1 needs to have its battery flattened AFTER pressing the reset button is a mystery to me.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2017, 11:04:22 pm
content: I forgot to mention, after the battery was charged and camera reset, the green LED 'charging' indicator started operating again. it could well be that the battery was so discharged that the F1G2 charging circuit would not start.Fraser

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2017, 01:42:50 am
content: Nice sleuthing, Fraser. Great to info to have in mind should my F1G2 ever go bonkers.

author: McDoS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2017, 02:16:24 pm
content: Greetings to you, friends. So I had the same problem. I'll tell you everything from the beginning ...First time, i connect it with my phone, install official software from google market. Flir will work correctly. I take 2 pictures, it's ok, and i desided to disconnect flir for charging.I connect charger and wait. When it fully charged i try to power on device, but orange led isn't change color to green and not change color. Flir isn't power on correctly now, phone cann't see him, and flir have no reaction to connecting charger to him (not blinking led near USB).If connect charger thru USB ampere-meter and to device, that shows, that no current, but if i press power button about 15 seconds, button light goes out, and if kept pressed this button connect USB charger, then accumulator start charging (ampere-meter shows current about 650mA and under as the battery is charging). But if i release power button, she start light by orange color and nothing happens.Solved the problem by disconnecting and attaching again the battery. It worked correctly with the phone, but by connecting the device to another phone the orange LED lighted up again and I returned to the same problem, but I could not solve it by the same method. The above recommendations do not help either. Symptoms are the same as for the first time.What else can be done? I can measure voltage anywhere, resistance, if it need. Help me please, guys.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2017, 05:36:36 pm
content: My first question would be, is the unit new and purchased from a FLIR agent ? If so, return it for a replacement as that will ensure long term reliability.I shall have to test the latest repaired unit on other phones and see if it remains stable.I have been asked to look at 14 of these cameras that are all faulty. I have yet to decide whether they are worth my time and effort as I cannot charge much per unit for the repair. I suspect that there is either a duff batch of cameras or a flaky firmware in the 'wild'.Fraser

author: McDoS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2017, 07:27:16 pm
content: No, it's not from a FLIR agent.

author: marshallh
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 29, 2017, 04:00:39 am
content: I had this silly battery problem happen to me (I bought one at launch). In fact my unit did not work brand new out of the box.So, I took it apart as I had planned to anyway, and in the process replugging the battery.The unit worked fine afterwards.Seems to be a weak point as well as the firmware.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2017, 07:50:52 am
content: I am tempted to solder the battery wires to the PCB socket, but that makes it less convenient to do a 'Hard' reset if required. As previously stated, the battery connector is a pretty poor type that can easily suffer intermittent contacts.Fraser

author: McDoS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2017, 08:24:42 am
content: What can I do in my case? Can I test the operation of individual modules, for example Lepton 3?Almost about 2 weeks he is in this state, and I do not know what can i do.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2017, 10:53:42 am
content: It is unlikely to be a LEPTON3 fault. Have you ensured that it is correctly seated in its socket as Bill W has found issues with this. The power management IC is also worth checking for correct operation.Sadly beyond these basic checks you are pretty much stuck with a dead unit. They are not exactly repairer friendly unless you are equipped with appropriate hot air rework equipment. If the firmware is at fault, no amount of hardware diagnostics will help.I am sorry that it is not better news. I am still finding my way around these highly integrated cameras so cannot offer anything more useful at the moment.Fraser

author: McDoS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2017, 06:24:02 am
content: LEPTON 3 is normal sitting in his socket. All ICs have a stable voltage. Seat of LEPTON 3 have all three voltage variants, that declared in datasheet. MAX31725 also have a normal voltage, that declared in datasheet. I have a gas soldering-iron (have a nozzles for warming up), who was helps me once to reboil a microchip on the phone after falling to the floor, but i think it can't help me in this case and i'm afraid to use it there.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2017, 12:04:50 pm
content: Two FLIR ONE G2 iOS versions are now on their way to me.Two more patients to examine. Hopefully they will work with my IPod Touch 5.More news when I have some.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2017, 09:36:13 am
content: The two IOS versions have arrived. No time at the moment to investigate their failures. More from me when time permits.Fraser

author: marlendive
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 12, 2017, 07:48:17 am
content: Hello everybody,I write from Italy and I found some possible solutions only on this forum;I bought a F1G2 for Android from a private () and when I received it and plugged to the USB connection, I realized the orange led stayed lighted on.I tried to disconnect the battery, connected the USB charging cable (and the orange power button led lighted), pressed and held the power button (the led extinguished), while still holding the power button I disconnected the USB charging cable, then released the power button.Then I reconnected the battery, but the led DIDN'T light. Nor it did pressing the power button.It just lights up when I plug the USB charging cable, that's it.Any suggestions?Thank you allgreetings

author: McDoS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2017, 08:03:48 am
content: Can you measure the voltage on the battery?

author: marlendive
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 12, 2017, 08:48:22 am
content: I will do it today.The matter is, when it is connected to the device without battery, it doesn't work either.

author: McDoS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2017, 09:39:15 am
content: I have a problem with my Flir too. Is your problem similar with my:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/flir-one-gen2-failure-investigation-by-fraser/msg1172399/#msg1172399?It happens that the battery goes into protection and shows 0 volts and is not charging in a regular way. You can "Wake up" the battery by fed to it from 3.7 to 4.2 volts (for example, from the battery 18650, connecting + to + and - to - for a few seconds). After that battery have to show normal voltage.There is an simpler way, if the voltage is 0: when the battery is connected, connect the USB charging, hold the power button until the orange diode goes out and hold it for about 30 seconds after diod is extinguished, because during this hold, the battery begins to charge.

author: marlendive
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 13, 2017, 02:36:06 pm
content: I measured the voltage and it is 3.7 V

author: McDoS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 09:19:43 am
content: Quote from: marlendive on April 13, 2017, 02:36:06 pmIt looks like you have the same problem as me, but I can not find a solution for almost a month."Flir support" also can not give me more powerful technical support.My Flir is recognized by PC as a "Flir COM port", it seems that i can flash firmware, but no answer from "Flir Support", how to do it.

author: marlendive
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 11:26:34 am
content: Good grief! So it should be a firmware problem?

author: McDoS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2017, 11:54:56 am
content: I think that this is the firmware, as I checked all main chips, output and input voltages and found no deviations from the declared in their technical documentation (datasheets).I have no other solutions so far. (

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2017, 06:47:08 pm
content: I concur that there appears to be a firmware vulnerability that leads to the described behaviour. Sadly, unlike the E4, I have not seen new firmware versions that may be loaded into the F1G2. I would have expected the FLIR One APP to offer firmware upgrade as an option. It may even be automatic.Fraser

author: MattSR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2017, 10:27:24 pm
content: The FLIR One app does offer firmware upgrade... its in the settings menu.

author: McDoS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2017, 05:24:04 am
content: Unfortunately, not one phone can see my Flir, since it does not go into power-on mode (green led does not light up)

author: McDoS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2017, 10:21:11 am
content: Fraser, you have a lot of FlirOne devices. Can you do one experiment for me with one of your correctly working device? I'm very interested to know some one: if disconnect all modules from PCB does it starts to charge if connect USB charger(battery must be connected). Does the green led near USB lights up?

author: marlendive
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 20, 2017, 02:45:36 pm
content: Yesterday a strange thing happened: I was trying to connect my F1G2 to the PC using a USB-microUSB adapter.Nothing happened, but suddenly the small green light near the USB charging plug started flashing.The orange led became green, too.I tried to connect it to the smartphone and it was recognized by the Flir App, I checked in the setting menu and the firmware resulted up to date.After few seconds, the led turned into orange again and it was not possible to use the camera, just pushing the power button, the green light turns on again, but it lasts very few seconds.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2017, 10:08:03 pm
content: @McDoSI do not have any FLIR One units disassembled at the moment and I am currently dealing with the death of a loved one so not doing any work on cameras for a while. Sorry.RegardsFraser

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2017, 04:18:22 am
content: Sorry to hear, Fraser. Condolences.

author: McDoS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2017, 10:49:49 am
content: So sad... Condolences.

author: fusebit
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2017, 04:30:14 pm
content: That isn't a general solutionQuote from: Fraser on March 25, 2017, 10:19:25 pmI do have a FLIR one G2 for about 14 month now and it worked properly all the time until today.I switched it on and the LED stayed orange, no chance to switch it off or charge or connect it to the phone. Some search and I discovered this thread and gave it a try, but it doesn't work. The camera stays in the hooked-up orange mode (I charged the battery externally, it was at 3,74V before). Too bad, stupid me also damaged the battery plug. But after 14 month the gurantee is gone anyhow...

author: fusebit
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2017, 05:15:17 pm
content: I do have a large set of good Wiha Torx, but not the f... TR-typeHopefully I'll be able to get one tomorrow to check the Sensor seating.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2017, 05:53:51 pm
content: Fusebit,Under European retail law, an item must be fit for purpose and is normally liable to a 2 year period of OEM support responsibility. i.e, it it fails within 2 years they should help you.If you still have your receipt, please contact FLIR customer services and explain the situation. You may be pleasantly surprised !Kind RegardsFraser

author: fusebit
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2017, 06:53:42 pm
content: Hi Fraser,your absolutely right, but this isn't valid anymore, because I opened the device. So it's my fault...Now it's open, so I could also do the sensor socket check.Maybe I'll check anyhow how much a repair would cost.The camera is a great gadget and I want it in operation again.Kind regards

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2017, 07:24:19 pm
content: Yes you opened the case, but it had already failed. FLIR do not actually repair these units. I suggest you still ask about a replacement unit and say nothing about the internal inspection. IMHO this is still morally OK as you did not cause the fault.I trust you have not mangled the casing too obviously ?Fraser

author: Vipitis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2017, 08:11:30 pm
content: Quote from: Fraser on February 28, 2017, 11:02:27 pmyou mentioned this in the beginning - can you show me exactly what those blocks are and how they work?I am really really interested in micro optics for building a small telescope(just 3x or 5x for the beginning) for the lepton inside my CAT S60 phone.I will read the experiments by Thomas123 now, but the Flir One gen2 has the same lepton sensor as far as I know.and it is a FoV of like 51 and 3... so I really need to narrow it for any kind of magnification.Jan

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2017, 10:11:23 pm
content: Not really for this thread as off topic but I can summarise......Optical blocks are the complete lens element set that sits in front of the microbolometer. These can comprise a Doublet, three or more lens elements depending upon design. My lens blocks have come from various thermal cameras and have different fields of view. The diameter of the lens blocks varies depending upon the size of the sensor they were used with. None of the lens blocks I have are telephoto types.What I do have are several auxiliary lens assemblies that sit in front of a cameras objective lens to provide a wider or nattower field of view and magnification. The two magnifications I have are X2 and X3. The X2 is a FLIR product and the X3 comes from Inframetrics. These are called Telescopes in thermal imaging circles.Foe Astro photography applications I would recommend modifying a reflector telescope as they are relatively inexpensive. You need one with a decent surface reflective mirror. You need to modify the eyepiece prism and fit a 45 Degree surface reflective flat mirror to direct the image towards the cameras objective. It will take some experimentation to get right.The resolution of the camera is quite important for Astrophotography and in this respect the affordable thermal cameras are relatively low resolution. This limits the targets that may be imaged somewhat.The FLIR ONE Gen 2 uses a LEPTON 3 with 160 x 120 pixels in its microbolometer. Your S60 camera has a quarter of the pixels at 80 x 60 pixels.I would recommend a decent 320 x 240 pixel low noise thermal camera for astrophotography, but the cost of such is not insignificant. Try your low resolution camera with a used reflector telescope and see how much can be achieved with that. Any refractor type telescope designs need thermal wavelength transmissive lenses (not BK Glass!) and will be very expensive to make or buy built.The Thermal Expert appears an excellent camera for Astophotography when coupled to a suitable reflector or refractor telescope.Making your own refractor telescope for the thermal domain is not trivial.Fraser

author: Vipitis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2017, 09:40:58 am
content: Thanks, your knowledge really helped me out.I don't really plan on buying a camera. But the reflector telescope seems to be a good option, as it can easily be used for thermal and visual observation of the sky.Regrading auxiliary telescopic lenses, I saw this examplehttps://youtu.be/pc7ZwEyY5rABoris claims to build the scopes on his own.For a reflector telescope there are different designs. The Newtonian with an eyepiece to the side and a angled secondary mirror.Or the Gregorian/Cassegrian way with having a big hole in the primary mirror.For thermal use the biggest problem will be the eyepiece/ focusser as those aren't build out of LWIR transparent material, and even a small lens can get really expensive.My current goal is to find some items arround me just to see if the effect works.I tried different reflective rounded objects like transgender can lids, spoons, plates, bowls, follower pots.I will try to visit a local store which has some real telescopes and ask them about testing it thermally by removing the eyepiece.Thanks again,Jan

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2017, 11:59:50 am
content: Jan,Boris is a clever chap who has built useable telescopes. In some of his designs he had to purchase suitable lens elements that were expensive via retail sources. You should expect to pay around $200 to $400 for the two or three required lens elements. The telescope is often Keplerian so inverting unless a third Erector lens is fitted. A two lens element Galilean non inverting telescope can be built but this requires a bi-convex Objective and a bi-concave output lens of matched specifications. The Galilean has some limitations as you can read about on the refracting telescope Wiki pages.It is easy to build a telescope, either visible light or LWIR, but LWIR presents the not insignificant challenge of obtaining suitable FL and diameter lens events that work in the LW spectrum. Germanium is an obvious choice but even used lens events can be expensive. A cheaper alternative is ZnSe but sadly the cheap Chinese ZnSe lenses are limited to diameters below 20mm with FL's of 25mm, 50mm, 63mm and 100mm.To adapt the LEPTON cameras lens to the telescope you would remove all visible light lenses from the image path and use some cheap ZnSe lens elements to match the telescope to the camera. You could use a suitable FL ZnSe lens as a close up lens viewing the Telescopes second mirror.I regret I am not an optical expert so cannot offer exact instruction on how to achieve such a conversion.If you want to see what ZnSe lenses are available, just search for ZnSE or ZnSe CO2 on eBay and you will find many ranging from around $10 upwards.The lenses are made for the CO2 laser engraver and cutter market, hence the limited range of sizes and FL's.Fraser

author: Vipitis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2017, 02:11:14 pm
content: a bunch of helpful information!I think the best option is to buy a reflective newtonian telescope and replace the eyepiece with either one of thesehttps://www.edmundoptics.de/microscopy/infinity-corrected-objectives/zinc-selenide-infrared-ir-focusing-objectives/- or a cheaper alternative. If not the full focus eyepiece, I can try to measure the stock lens in the eyepiece and look for a cheap ZnSe or Germanium replacement.It is a crazy project I though about only a few days ago, but I invested a lot of time into research and I would be really disappointed if I don't have any results.Lots of thanks once again,Jan

author: Santiago
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2017, 05:05:31 pm
content: Fraser, as I understood from all the posts around here only you can help me.I got my FLIR One from a UK ebay seller as Brand New Open Box. And received it Open Box without any accessory inside.Moreover it doesn't work with any Android smartphone or tablet. I've tried Galaxy S4, S6, S7, Motorola G4 and some more. No result.All the LEDs light and blink in the right way but no connection happens. No infrared image appears on the screen.Does it mean USB connector is damaged?What can you recommend in my situation?Here is what the FLIR suppord answered.Thank you for contacting us. We have received your email in regards your FLIR ONE. For this issue we do recommend you to perform the following troubleshoot steps:•Perform a hard reset on the FLIR ONE while connected to the charger by holding the power button down for 30 seconds.•Try to reinstall the app.•Let the battery drain overnight and try charging it again (with another charger if possible).•Test it with different compatible devices.•Try to use different USB cords or different Power outlets.Anyway nothing of this has helped.Among those faulty devices you fixed up was one with the same issue?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2017, 10:35:52 am
content: I have an iOS F1G2 that appears to boot correctly but will not connect to a host. I regret I have not investigated this fault yet so cannot offer a solution at the moment. I personally would start with disconnection of the battery to force a full cold start rather than a reset. Whilst the camera is open yo can remove the PCB and inspect it for solder splashes on the USB connections or other issues.Sadly the PCB is secured using tamper resistant miniature Torx head screws. I have yet to find a hollow torx driver that small so I use a flat blade jewelers screwdriver and a lot of care !Fraser

author: Santiago
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 22, 2017, 12:50:50 pm
content: Thanks for the detailed answer!I have tried to do both hard reset and battery disconnection. And then hard reset after your algorithm. Nothing has helped.I can remove the PCB (3 screws) - happily I have the suitable screwdriver, but the 2 screws that hold the USB connector seem to be of different size. My screwdriver doesn't fit it.What can I use to remove this 2 screws? Can you offer the photo of your screwdriver?Besides I have a question about your way of hard reset: when I remove the battery and connect the USB power cable the small green LED near the male USB connector blinks 3 times and then pause for a couple of seconds and this cycle continues. Is it normal?

author: ulltrium
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2017, 01:45:49 pm
content: Hi guys,Let me share my experience with FlirOne. I read your messages and decided to test my luck so I purchased a faulty FlirOne 2nd gen for Android from ebay. I received it yesterday in its original box with all the accessories, it looks like new. I plugged it in to see if it charges and the power button LED turned orange, a very low current was sucked from the usb port, around 20mA.I let it plugged in over night and in the morning I found it blinking green (charging). On the ampermeter and the current increased to around 40mA. After couple of hours still charging, very slowly at 40mA) so I decided to give it a try, I connected the phone, started the application and bingo - I got the image.I know it's premature to conclude but I believe that in my case the battery was completely discharged (if not faulty, I'll see about that in the next couple of days). Right now it is still plugged into an usb port, blinking green and slowly charging at 40mA (I'm hoping the charging circuitry is smart enough and detected the battery was completely discharged and carefully charging it back at a very low current). I'll come back in a couple of days and let you know how it works, after I conclude if the battery is still usable.Regards,Ulltrium.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2017, 03:07:04 pm
content: With the 'completely discharged' battery symptom, I am suspicious that the FLIR ONE G2 power management can sometimes malfunction and flatten the battery even when "off". That is the problem with soft power control. The unit is never completely off and sits in various hibernate, sleep and run modes, just like modern laptops, tablets and phones. If it does not enter hibernate when it should, it discharges the battery. Thee is also the possibility of faulty LiPo batteries with high self discharge or low capacity. The FLIR ONE G2 seems to have problems when presented with a completely discharged battery. They sometimes will not restart unless the battery is charged externally and then refitted in the camera.There certainly seem to be issues with the FLIR ONE G2 battery circuit.Fraser

author: ulltrium
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 07:20:02 am
content: I agree, the issue seems to be related to the battery circuit. Yesterday my camera worked well for a couple of minutes then turned off. I opened it and extracted the battery with the intention to charge it externally and put it back inside. I immediately noticed that the battery connector is not good, if I touch the battery wires the orange led turns of and on randomly, it is obvious that the contact is poor. However, I removed the battery and charged it with an external charger, it was not completely discharged as I thought (I measured 3.5V) so my LiPo charger accepted it and did its job.Then I connected back the battery inside the camera but unfortunately it doesn't work, I got again the orange light. No reset works, nothing, I'm stuck in this mode. It is very frustrating.

author: dundee
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2017, 09:34:59 pm
content: Hi Guys!I also bought a faulty Flir One 2nd Edition for IOS.At first i tried to charge the battery by USB. Nothing happend, no current flows.Next I disconnected the battery and checked the voltage: 0V.I've charged the battery now with my external charger. Connected back nothing happens (even LED's).Next i decided to connect my Power Supply to the Camera's battery connector. There's a current of 38mA.If i press the power button for 10-15 Seconds the current goes to 0. No LED lights...Any ideas where to start? Battery circuit?

author: Mjolinor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2017, 02:07:14 pm
content: Much Googling and lots of hits about this "reset" method but not a lot other than that to help solve the orange LED problem.Gave up Googling and just thought it is probably better to just get in there with oscilloscope, microscope, probes etc etc.Under the microscope the BGA soldering is kind of similar to a pile of camel dung and a good dose of freezer under the micro then the camera started functioning correctly for five minutes or so. Squirted a load of flux under there and gave it some with the rework station and the camera is fixed, at least for now. Charging LED works, green flashing LED under the switch and can turn it on and off with the button.Maybe this will help the next guy that has one of these things. I don't think I will have this for long. I think the build quality is crap compared to the Seek and as the seek has a focusing lens it is much better for fault finding on PCBs. Still, one has to try these things in order to draw those conclusions.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2017, 04:04:40 pm
content: Thanks for your findings. I have one stubborn FLIR One G2 that has not come back to life with a reset. I shall try rework on the BGA chips to see what happens. Nothing to lose as that camera was kept only for its Lepton core.The failure rate on these cameras is of concern. I have never seen such in FLIR products before. A case of building down to a price and using the cheapest Chinese tender for the build maybe ? Such could lead people to believe that FLIR produce unreliable products in general.Do look at the Therm App and Thermal Expert offerings before buying a SEEK product though.Fraser

author: Mjolinor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2017, 08:49:39 pm
content: I already have a Seek so could compare directly, it is why I bought the flir one and I much prefer the Seek. I have sort of looked at other third party things for the Seek but I don't use Windo$e on anything, that meant there isn't a lot to see really. When time permits I will probably look at getting it working with Linux but as the primary use is for spotting hot stuff on PCBs I don't think anything will be better than the smart phone / tablet.

author: Dracula
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 24, 2017, 02:52:03 pm
content: Hi Fraser,I have an F1 2G camera that worked well last week, but I may have left it on so now when plugged into charger shows orange steady light o the power button and not charging - so I assume I drained its battery. I would like to unplug the battery to get it to reset - would you please advise how to get the camera open? Also, is there another way to reset the camera without opening it?Thank you!

author: Mjolinor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2017, 02:56:24 pm
content: If the battery is completely flat it is already reset. Plug the charger in and hold the power button down for a full 2 minutes. That will force charge the battery for a short time after which it will probably behave normally.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2017, 03:00:19 pm
content: Before opening the camera, connect the charger and keep the power button pressed for a while. I use an elastic band holding a small nylon nut against the power button. According to FLIR, this enables trickle charging of the battery to a point where the battery is again recognised by the charge management IC.Try 15 minutes first and see if it works. If not, try 30 minutes etc.The rear of the cameras case is field in p,ace by double sided tape located at several points around its edge lip. I use a thin sharp modelling knife to ease the rear panel off of the camera. I have also used a razor blade along the straight edge and just pressed it into the gap befor levering the rear panel up and out of the camera case. Take care not to damage the case edges in the process.Fraser

author: Dracula
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 24, 2017, 06:56:45 pm
content: Thank you Fraser and Mjolinor for your advice! I have force-recharged the battery to the point where the orange light stays on all the time, but the camera still won't work with the phone, and it would not charge either. Is there anything else I can do? Would you be willing to take a shot at fixing it?

author: Mjolinor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2017, 07:16:48 pm
content: Force charging (power button held in) puts about 300 ma into the battery but it will drop as the battery charge approaches full. It will not damage the battery. I have used a G clamp to hold the button in for hours.If that doesn't work then you will have to take it apart.

author: Dracula
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 24, 2017, 07:47:02 pm
content: Now, when I unplug the charging cable, the orange light stays on - so I guess the battery is charged, but the camera still won't work. Is there anything else I can try?

author: Mjolinor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2017, 08:20:37 pm
content: Just take the back off and disconnect the battery.

author: Dracula
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 25, 2017, 12:19:18 am
content: Thank you guys for your help! Alas, the reboot procedure did not work as the power button stays orange after battery reconnect, would not go off or green. What a piece of junk. I needed a good IR camera to check on a window replacement job, so ordered a $400 FLIR One Pro unit from Home Depot. Will do the job then return it within three months. I know this is not very nice, but FLIR should have built good G2 cameras in the first place.

author: Mjolinor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2017, 06:47:35 am
content: They are pretty badly made and sticking a battery in there was a mistake given that they will tend not to be used every day.The Lepton module is a cracking thing and they go and ruin it with the worlds worst, cheapest PCB that monkeys or aardvarks have soldered.

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2017, 12:39:24 pm
content: Quote from: Mjolinor on October 25, 2017, 06:47:35 amUnfair on aardvarks.Bill

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2017, 12:46:07 pm
content: Yes sadly the F1G2 does seem to have been a model prone to failure. It, like some other FLIR models, is manufactured by a third party in China. FLIR just provide the core etc. I have to wonder whether the new F1G3 is manufactured by a different Chinese factory with a more reliable build ? Let us hope so.Another example of building down to a price and quality suffering maybe ?Fraser

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2017, 08:36:09 pm
content: Quote from: Mjolinor on October 25, 2017, 06:47:35 amI also found that odd, given the typical use case. I can understand not wanting to drain the phone's battery, but it's yet another battery to maintain. Tedious.

author: misterno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2017, 12:39:39 pm
content: Dear friends, hi from Greece,I do buy a faulty as they told me device just to experiment. I do have an android samsung galaxy A5 2016 version with 6.01 android version.The person who sells me the device told me that sometimes this device was working.I put the charger in the port and charging the battery. When it shows me green light, i disconnect it from the usb charging port.Installation offlir one apkwas successful and then connect the device to my phone as app asking for.I pushed the power button and after orange red light, the green light starts flashing.No matter what i tried the device wasn't working. Is it any test i can do just to ensure that the device is in working state?Do i need a different mobile phone than Samsung A5 i have?TIA

author: Mjolinor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2017, 12:57:45 pm
content: Flashing green is the normal operating indication so I would suspect that the USB connector inside is not good and it is not connecting to the phone.

author: misterno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2017, 04:14:19 pm
content: The news is that i made a DIY micro USB cable to USB and when i plugged and powered the device, the green ligh flash and the device manager founds a new device and show yellow exclamation mark.I 'm not sure what can i do next. Any help?TIA

author: Mjolinor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2017, 04:17:21 pm
content: Same prognosis (<< probably a Greek word?), I guess one of the data lines is broken inside the camera.

author: uboot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2017, 02:40:58 pm
content: What if there is no LED lit at all?Just got myself a defective Flir One G2 for Android. Battery was depleted to 3.21V, no LED would light up uppon pressing power button or connecting USB charger.I was able to charge the battery by keeping power button pressed for an hour with charger connected - it started at 900mA and slowly dropped to 7mA when I disconnected it. Sucked a total of 275mAh. Battery voltage now is at 4.04V. Just be sure to press the power button _before_ inserting the charging cable.EDIT: squeezed in another 25mAh with external Lipo charger. Battery voltage is now at 4.22VBut still no light.Tried Fraser's reset method: No success.Any ideas from you guys?Don't have the proper torx screw drivers yet to further disassemble the unit but that's what I'm heading for next.

author: Kalber
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 30, 2017, 03:02:34 pm
content: Well, i have exactly the same problem with mine.Bought a defective one g2. There is no light blinking, neither in the power button nor the charging port. I loaded the Batterie up to 3.5 volts externally, tried the reset procedure, but still nothing happening.The only thing the FlirOne does, is charging with around 4 volts after pressing the power button for (around) 10seconds.I also loosened the 5 torx screws, but found nothing special/defective on the circuit board.So if you or someone other have the solution for this problem, i would be very grateful to hear from it.Thanks

author: uboot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2018, 11:50:47 am
content: As from another thread (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/question-about-flir-one-for-android/), some of the BGA chips might need reflow/rework - probably the flash/ram IC - but this is something I didn't dare as I was able to return the device to the seller and get a refund. I will now either buy a new Flir G2 or a Seek Thermal Compact if the seller I found doesn't manage to obtain and ship the Flir G2 still listed as available in his shop.But there is maybe another option for you: get a Lepton breakout board from Digikey and wire it to a Raspberry Pi:https://damow.net/building-a-thermal-camera/https://www.digikey.co.uk/catalog/en/partgroup/lepton-breakout-board/55730

author: careyer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2019, 09:21:23 am
content: FLIR One Pro (3.Gen) also having Battery Issues?Hi all! Some time ago FLIR replaced my broken FLIR Gen.2 which self drained its battery like crazy under warranty and replaced it with a Gen.3 Pro. I have tested it for a while now and the new series seems to have the same problem again. Charged up to 100% it is down to 5% after sitting for exactly 2 month on the shelf. (i.e. self discharge of 95% in 60 days).Can this be considered normal? Can anyone else with a Gen.3 confirm this?What if I don't use the cam for lets say half a year? Will it deep discharge and ruin itself?Cheers and everybody a Happy New Year!

author: Vipitis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2019, 01:12:43 pm
content: Is it exposed to temperature change during it storin?

author: careyer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2019, 04:06:38 pm
content: No, always same temperature : 21 degree celsius ( living room)Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

author: mattGray
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 03, 2019, 11:42:45 am
content: Hi All,I have a F1 2G iOS device that has been working fine for 18 months but now can't be recognised on any of my devices. It seems to boot and charge fine. I have tried Frasers reset trick any ideas?

author: schmiernippel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 01, 2019, 08:01:42 pm
content: I have connected the vcc and ground from the usb port(phone connection) direct to the battery connector.I have completly removed the lipo battery.Works great on my lg g6 phone !

author: autroguy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 18, 2019, 04:24:34 pm
content: Can you please show the connections on the USB?Thanks.

author: schmiernippel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 21, 2019, 11:45:53 am
content: At the moment i have borrowed the cam a friend so i can not make a photo. But just google "micro usb pinout". When you have soldered the wires on the usb, double check the polarity !

author: exciter
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 22, 2019, 11:49:41 pm
content: Hi,buyed a dead F1G2 on eBay.Had to reflow the NAND to have the orange LED starting working for now...previous owner broke the black 4Pin Socket on the mainboard. This socket is used for 4Pin mobile phone connector.I measured 1mm pitch but I don’t know it’s height since it’s gone.Can someone please measure out?Regards

author: exciter
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 30, 2019, 07:02:28 pm
content: Hard reset didn’t change anything. Got only the orange light, no charging led...So I removed the AT91SAM, reballed the Chip and soldered it back.Now the device is working as it should. You could clearly see that some solder balls didn’t made contact to the BGA because some contacts didn’t shine after removing. So after Nand (0.35mm) and CPU (0.5mm) reball the device is fine.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2019, 07:33:10 pm
content: Exciter,Excellent postI have had FLIR ONE G2 unit’s that also do not respond to a hard reset. I basically put them in storage until such time as I either felt motivated to investigate further, or harvested the Lepton core from them for other projects. I never did feel motivated to delve deeper into the F1G2 issues as I fell out of love with the design!At one point I had around a dozen dead F1G2 units piled up awaiting my attention. That is when I knew the product has ‘issues’. No other thermal camera I had come across was so prone to failure or power related issues. I wonder if the F1G3 is more reliable ? I decline to work on any of these FLIR One unit’s now as they are not worth my time.It is very interesting to read that there is a BGA ball flow issue as that helps to explain why there seemed to be whole batches of dud F1G2 units hitting the market. There was clearly a production line issue that was not detected. Some units suffer from battery or power management chip issues but this latest comment from you suggests that the F1G2 may also suffer from extensive BGA production defects.Please will you detail the equipment you used to rework the small BGA components. I have hot air and IR BGA Rework stations. I bought the IR BGA Rework station to experiment with repairing laptop motherboards, specifically the North and South Bridge chips. Those are huge compared to the BGA components in the F1G2 ! On the hot air front I have both conventional sized hand pieces with various nozzles and various hot air pencils for fine SMT work.Fraser

author: Uho
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2019, 06:52:33 am
content: I watched two broken F1G3 from one batch. Symptoms of failure are the same with F1G2. They work after the controller warms up with a hairdryer.

author: exciter
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 03, 2019, 07:11:34 am
content: Hi,I use a Weller WSP80 soldering station and a aoyue int 968 hot air (waiting for a BST-863).Additionally I have got a old PACE station with vacuum pump and desoldering iron.For SMD work I use a old Zeiss stereo microscope with an old lamp stand.I attached some pics.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2019, 11:25:04 am
content: Exciter,Many thanksNice bench setup in your loft ..... I need to de clutter my work area as I find myself working on the dining room table at the moment ! My wife is none too impressed !I love that you included the term “old” in your equipment details ...... I am of the view that “Old” is fine if it gets the job done“Old”, originally expensive, can often be better than “New”, cheapWell done on the repairFraser

author: jldesigns.eu
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2019, 11:07:08 am
content: Hello Guys.I've also bought a broken Flir one gen 2 (first one attached to the phone). After reading the post about resetting the module I thought it will be a straight forward but not exacly...The symptom were in my case:- orange LED always on (red and green bought lighten up)- after holding the button for about 10s the orange light is going down, but after releasing the button it light buck up- i saw a green light briefly go down for a split of the second after connecting the battery- charg led is not lighting and the battery was not charged- cam was not detectable by the phoneI've charged the battery externally. The reset procedure didn't work for me.After reading the post bout reballing I've decide to give a shot to reheat the chips, so I've poured some flux on flash and man CPU, and reheated them with hotair. Of course I know it would not be permanent, but I deducted that the units were testes in factory, so a cold joints are pretty probable (especially since my unit was factory new condition) , and reheating could work, and it did work to some degree...Now the camera is more alive:- after pressing button the light goes orange, and then green is flashing (around 1s period)- the camera is detectable by the phone, It reads the battery percentage, but no image from any camera- the charging light is still not lighting- if i turn it on (the green light flashes) and not connect it to the phone it truns off after some time.Questions:1. What would You recommend to do next?2. Green flash meaning its booting, it should be solid after it boots properly?3. Is there a serial UART somewhere on the board like in the case of Flir One Case (for iphone 5) like Mike showed in his video?4. When raballing can You confirm is it a CPU and not Flash? Resitting both is 2x more risky. I've never did any reballing... Watch a ton of YT videos... but still not confidentIs it easier when reball the chip with bought balls (not stencil)?5. Maybe somebody have a tested working open hardware project for breakout board for Lepton, possibly if it straight forward to use/test it?Thanks in advance for any advice.===============EDIT===================I've also verified that the battery is charging now - it draws around 500ma, but the charge led is off. I don't see any move on the shutter at any point.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2019, 11:58:41 am
content: From what I have read, removing the CPU, Flash and power management chips is the best option as it would appear that there was a real quality control issue with the soldering of these components at the factory. It could be caused by many factors such as contamination of pads, incorrect reflow profile or flux issues.Re-balling such small components is not for the faint hearted. I personally use solder balls but others have success with stencils and solder paste so both techniques work. The solder paste is heated on the chip to create solder balls so the result is similar. More flux will be needed when attaching to the PCB of course.I suspect if you remove the BGA chips you will find issues evident on the PCB pads, as others have discovered. The PCB pads should be cleaned of all residual lead free solder, re-tinned with leaded solder (I use LMP with silver) then cleaned again to create nice receptive pads for the leaded solder on the BGA chip. This is not a quick process, especially if new to doing BGA work (like me!) so it makes no commercial sense to undertake the repair. For you it is different and you stand a good chance of reviving the unit provided the solder balls do not merge under the BGA.I understand that controlled hot air (not a paint stripping stripping gun) is adequate for these small chips. I just bought a Jovy IR BGA Rework station and will be testing it on some BGA tasks that I have waiting for it’s arrival. I may try it on the FLIR One G2 as I have some awaiting my attention. The Jovy may be a sledgehammer to crack a nut however !Most Lepton breakout/dev boards that contain a processor are over priced in my humble opinion. The ‘dumb’ version is affordable but not as useful. I have yet to find a reasonably priced intelligent dev board for the Lepton 3.Fraser

author: jldesigns.eu
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2019, 07:30:56 am
content: Thanks Fraser.I'm confident with smd till 0402, don't have an microscope, and only simplest and cheapest hot air station.I'm gone give it a try, but have a question to exciter.1. How to remove this uderfill? Heat + rubbing?2. Should I do both chips at once or just CPU?3. I don't have a preheater, would you recommend to get it or for this small PCB hot air is fine?4. Any other advice?

author: exciter
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 21, 2019, 10:59:11 am
content: Hi,As far as I can remember there is no complete cpu underfill.There is just the resin holding the chip in place. I removed it with a thin solder tip.There might be a little bit of resin under the chip, but I had no problem removing the chip.I also used a preheater but I was also able to remove the chip only with my hot-air station.I started with the nand, but the fault was because of broken cpu solder joints.Would try to reflow the nand first. If the fault persists I would reball the CPU.You need to remove the old solder from the board an chip as goof as you can. Clean the PCB and chip with MEK or alcohol. Use leaded solder balls for reballing because of the lower melting point.Be sure all solder is melted before you remove the chip ( watch nearby components for melted solder, push chip from the side and look out for movement(may not work because of the resin)).You will avoid ripped pads if you are carefully. Move the nozzle evenly...

author: ftonello
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2020, 06:46:35 pm
content: Anyone interested in a Flir One Gen2 that i f***-up trying to reball?Or Should i send it to Dave, so he can do a video about it.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2020, 07:21:28 pm
content: I would be interested in it pleaseFraserUK

author: All Seeing Eye
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2020, 03:59:19 pm
content: FLIRONE's battery design is very stupid, and it goes wrong again and again.

author: ftonello
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2020, 06:26:01 pm
content: This is disturbing, because a plan to buy another one...Flir One is a pocket tool in my area...

author: Robster69
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 20, 2020, 12:27:17 pm
content: FraserPlease can you let me know what hot air heat temp you used for removing the cpu and nand chips?I have a preheater to help with the removal...

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2020, 12:41:45 pm
content: Every brand rework station will behave slightly differently due to air flow, distance from chip etc. I strongly suggest you practice on some scrap boards before attempting rework on a F1G2 PCB.I now use A Jovy 7500 Infrared rework station with proper heat profiling. Hot air was OK but for delicate work I prefer IR.Working on the F1G2 is not for the faint hearted and there is significant risk of killing it good and proper !Fraser

author: J3SS3
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 06, 2020, 08:43:44 pm
content: Hey all,I've got a F1G3 with the dead battery issue (constant orange light, won't charge). I've disconnected the battery: 0V, reconnected and the same. Wondering if anyone has a source to buy a replacement battery (F1G3 uses a 3 wire battery, see image). Maybe a new battery would do the trick?Alternatively, what about running the wires out of the frame and using an external battery or power supply, kind of a DIY workaround to re-engineer the issue?One more thing, I contacted Flir about this and since i'm out of warrantee they offered me $200 toward the purchase of a new Flir One Pro from their website. I'd have to ship mine to them, when they receive it they provide the promo code. Sounds a little like throwing good money after bad to me though...This has been a really informative forum!

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2020, 09:30:12 pm
content: Try a power supply charge on the battery - it must be locked out flat by the protection circuits.Set 4V with a 100mA current limit.Once it gets up to 4V then try back in the camera and see of it restarts, or follow the reboot guide up the threadBill

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2020, 11:01:49 pm
content: I have a very dead F1 Gen 3 as well. It was bought as working but I got burnt by the seller as it is showing a solid Red led. This is a well known fault. It did appear to charge the battery as the battery got warm. My faulty F1G3 needs further investigation but I just cannot be bothered with it at the moment. I have a lovely Argus 4 and Seek Reveal Pro Ff to repair firstAs Bill has stated, in your case I would try to charge the battery using a safe method, as detailed. The LiPo May have a locked out battery protection circuit fitted so you might need to gain access to the battery side of the protection circuit in order to put some charge into the cell and reactivate the output of the protection board. On occasions I have had to charge the cell and then MOMENTARILY connect the cell input of the protection board to the protection board output.... this somehow reset the lockout on the board. Worth a try.I do not know of a direct replacement for the F1G3 battery, I managed to buy a replacement F1G2 battery on eBay that is now being sold as a compatible replacement from “Sino battery” for £12. No sign of a Gen 3 battery yet though.If the battery cannot be revived you might like to carefully connect a 4V/1A lab power supply to the battery terminals Of the F1G3 PCB and see if the camera will boot from that supply (mine didn’t). If it does, some F1G2 owners have deleted the internal battery completely and wired the battery input of the PCB to the USB plug that connects to the phone. The camera is then powered from the phone. I would want to place a LDO regulator or a silicon diode in series with that power feed though to bring the voltage closer to that of a LiPo. You make such a modification at your own risk however and I have not done it on any of my F1G2 ‘patients’.Fraser

author: J3SS3
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 07, 2020, 01:19:51 am
content: Thanks! To apply the charge would i have to do anything with the white wire? I'm not sure what that wire does. Now to find a lab power supply

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2020, 01:43:56 pm
content: Quote from: J3SS3 on July 07, 2020, 01:19:51 amNo, just put power back up the red/black initially.If that fails, as Fraser says try charging direct on the cell.The white is probably a thermistor in the pack to allow the charger circuit to behave more appropriately. See if it is ~ 10kblack to white.Bill

author: J3SS3
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 14, 2020, 10:04:25 pm
content: So it seems by "budget" power supply I've acquired has a lower limit of 0.6A. I'm guessing that's too high a limit to attempt this safely, right? I may have to give this further consideration. Thanks again, all!

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2020, 11:06:47 pm
content: You often only need to raise the terminal voltage of the battery above the lockout threshold So that the cameras charge circuit recognises the battery and charges it. You can use a 0.6A Current limit power supply on the battery but only for a short time to avoid overheating. Set the power supply to 4.2V with the lowest set able current limit, which you say is 0.6A. I recommend applying the 0.6A current limited supply output to the LiPo cell for 30 seconds and measuring the battery with a meter after disconnection. Repeat the process until the cell measures above 3V and you should be good to go refitting the cell to the camera and letting the on board charge circuit continue to charge the cell in a safe manner.Charging a LiPo cell at 2C is not dangerous provided you watch the process and ensure the cell does not get hot. It will charge the cell quickly so care is needed. At 2C the cell would be fully charged in around 30 minutes and further charging would be risky due to overcharging effects on the cell. Be sensible and you will be fineFraser

author: J3SS3
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 17, 2020, 02:43:58 pm
content: Hi Friends,Just wanted to give an update (perhaps just for posterity) on my Flir One Pro Gen 3 with the orange-light-on-nobody-home issue. Spoiler alert: no luck1. I removed the battery (quick tip for those with this camera, lift up on the battery connector on the side opposite the wires to easily remove it).a. Battery read 0Vb. applied 4.2V at minimum current limit with my budget power supply (stated as 0.6A) for 30 seconds.c. after 1 30 second interval the battery read 3.4V!d. plugged battery back to PCBe. now i can get the orange light to stay on while not plugged in to USB power.f. it will stay in this state until the battery is drained (without USB power connected).2. I tried the same but did 3 or 4 charging cycles and got the battery up to 3.7Va. same results3. Attempted solution from Reply #25 (Fraser)a. attempted the power-hold/usb-pull maneuver 3 times to make sure I was doing the right sequenceb. no luck, still at orange power light state- I should note that I too have the millisecond flash of the light after 18 seconds noted in Reply #234. Applied 4v/1a from power supply to battery connectors on PCBa. orange light comes onb. appears to be in the same state as with the battery charged in plugged in or with USB connectedI am certainly not going to attempt any reballing or solder fixes as my skills in that area are more often applied to copper pipes with a torch.I'm considering selling this one for parts on ebay and seeing what i can get, then possibly purchasing a Seek (currently under $200 on Amazon). Or I may consider taking Flir up on their offer for a discounted new camera if I send this one in (might put me back in the same boat, but at least I'd have a warranty). If anyone has insight on "scrap" value of this model, or the reliability of Seek (UW-AAA), I'd be obliged!Thanks again for all the help and the "fun" project (trying to stay positive).

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2020, 04:17:06 pm
content: J3SS3,Sorry to hear that your F1G3 is beyond simple resurrection. I am in the same situation and the battle is ongoing with the less than honest seller in my case. Sadly a faulty F1G3 Pro is not worth much more than a faulty F1G2. I have paid between £35 and £80 for faulty F1G2 units over the years. They are a good source of a Lepton 3 core and this is likely why they retain at least some reasonable value even when dead and likely beyond repair.Fraser

author: J3SS3
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 04, 2020, 09:11:23 pm
content: Hey All,Well my story is done. I sold my F1PG3 on ebay and got about $150 for it! I guess covid has somewhat affected the supply of lepton cores for projects (thermal drones, etc). So I may have caught the market at the right time. My new Seek Compact is clearly does not have the capabilities of the F1P, but it's sufficient for my meager residential needs (though I already miss the merged visible+infrared image). Thanks again for the ideas to try for DIY repair. Good luck and stay well!

author: bl4z3
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 28, 2020, 07:51:47 am
content: Hello,first of all thank you all for the huge guide and shared experiences with faulty Flir Ones. I bought a Flir One Gen2 iOS on ebay wich was sold as working. The camera charges fine and turns on (green flashing light). I replaced the battery since the old one was reported as weak and its still charging and turning on. I hear the lepton calibrating every once in a while.When I open the Flir One app and connect the camera to my iPhone 7 i get the battery percentage displayed but no picture and then the app crashes. Sometimes the app does not chrash but i still only get a black screen.I tried with other Iphones (unfortunately all the same model), but no luck. I also tried the reset method but everything stays the same.Does the Flir One Gen 2 work with newer Iphones and the latest iOS 14? The newest Iphone reported on the packaging is Iphone 6. Did FLir just Sofftware limit the compatability?Do you have any other tips for me, what I can try? Tanks!Edit: I also reseated the lepton sensor but no luckEdit2: Tried a 3rd party app that uses Flir One Camera. It also crahes when trying to connect to the camera

author: morbid80
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 28, 2020, 12:26:34 am
content: Quote from: bl4z3 on September 28, 2020, 07:51:47 amcan it work normally using the old battery?

author: owenfi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 11:57:46 pm
content: Does it work if the charger is plugged in while you connect to the phone?Maybe try the plug in charger -> hold power for 2 minutes (set a timer as this feels like forever) -> while still plugged in press power again (green blinking should start) -> plug into phone.It seems this has worked for me (sample size of 5 - 10 crashes, followed by above procedure working one time so far)If this keeps working I guess I can power it off of a USB battery pack until I break it apart and replace the battery.

author: morbid80
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 02:15:32 am
content: so i bought a F1G2, advertised as faultygot it, symptom: orange light, with a short flicker after 10s like it want to boot, then remained orangebattery was flat, i charged it externally till full. tried again, same symptomtried Fraser's reset method, unsuccesfulproceed with reballing Nand flash, same symptom.proceed to reball processor, now the F1G2 boot up, green flash like it would do normally.can hear lepton shutter flickering.no charging LED when charginghowever when i tried connecting the camera to my Iphone XS max, phone succesfully detected the camera and prompt to open with Flir One app, but it crashed the app as soon as the camera initiating(can hear shutter flickering).can only see battery level with black screen for maybe half a second before crashing.tried with my old Iphone 5s with older version flir one app.same thing happennow i had a spare lepton camera, tried changing the camera but same symptom, so i dont think Lepton is the problemsoldered a known good battery to rule out battery issue, same findingany idea or solution?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 12:30:43 pm
content: I have read accounts of flash memory being corrupted by the high temperatures used for BGA rework. There is the possibility that you fixed the processor poor soldering but sadly corrupted the flash data as wellI avoid reworking the FLIR One camera dongles..... nothing but heartache on that pathThe FLIR One series of dongles are, without doubt, the lowest quality, highest failure rate, product that FLIR have ever producedThe reason..... FLIR wanted the cheapest possible manufacturing cost so outsourced the work to a sub contractor in China. They dropped the ball on the quality control and testing fronts.Fraser

author: morbid80
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 02:23:31 am
content: i agree.wont take any chance with flir one anymore. lucky i still have my trusty seek compactpro

author: firehopper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 02:01:42 pm
content: if you have junk flir ones. I could use a new case for mine. front and back, doggy got a hold of mine and munched on it. had to get a new battery but needs a new case yet.

author: Propretor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2020, 12:22:33 pm
content: Guys, and who has not tried to run the Flir One Pro Gen3 without a battery?First, supply power to Type-C and connect to a smartphone without a battery.If everything is OK, then you can make one connection internally between the Type-C charger and micro-USB / Type-C data.Alteration will make a siktermal out of flirI haven't used flirting for about a year and the battery has completely run out. Now the flir cannot even charge the built-in battery to 100% - the green LED does not stop blinking for 6 hours, and then the orange one turns on. Nevertheless, there is still 10-20 percent of the previous capacity in the battery. And the thermal imager does not work for long.The question is in the vandal-free analysis of the subject.Is there a parsing order in pictures or videos?Modify message

author: Silicium81
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2021, 07:37:26 pm
content: Good morning all,I have been reading you for a few years and own a flir one gen 2 for over 2 years. It worked well until recently ...But suddenly, I got the famous fixed orange light ... The camera does not start anymore and the orange light turn off only if I press the button for at least ten seconds ...I checked the power supplies, everything is ok, I will now unsolder the microcontroller to reball it. If that does not solve the problem, i will do the same for the memory. For now i'm waiting for some tools and will learn to use those correctly before doing this delicate operation on the real device, As you can see, i was able to make an x-ray view of the board.

author: Silicium81
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2021, 07:37:22 am
content: I did a data acquisition of the start-up sequence with putty by connecting a serial to usb interface to the card on the dedicated pins. Here is what I get:The camera constantly reboots ...Can I deduce from these few lines if the nand flash is ok?RomBOOTStart AT91Bootstrap version svn-r5344 ...Init HALF drive strength DDR... BOARD_ConfigureDdram()DDRSDRC->DDRSDRC_LPR: 0x12101Done!Downloading image...Trying to load uboot...nandflash_hw_init()reset_nandflash()AT91F_NandReadID()ManufacturerID: 0x2c DeviceID: 0xa1chip id: 0x2ca1Copy 0x50000 bytes from 0x40000 to 0x23f00000nandflash_cfg_8bits_dbw_init()switch(sNandInfo.uDataNbBytes) 2048:read_nandflash: while (1)read_nandflash: while (1)read_nandflash: while (1)read_nandflash(): return 0;Done!Returning jump to 0x0x23f00000After 10s ----------------------------------------> restart line 1 (Romboot)

author: W1ngl3t
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 17, 2021, 08:02:06 pm
content: Hi, do any of you have a disassembled Flir One Pro handy?

author: 3DMovieList
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2022, 02:24:02 pm
content: I just wanted to send a quick THANK YOU for all the useful information in this thread.It helped get a FLIR One device working.For me, I had to resolder some dry joints in the USB connector.I also had to update the Samsung Galaxy S8 to the latest OS (from Android version 8 to Android version 9).With Android version 8, the Play Store would not show the FLIR One software as an option - it just didn't show up in a search.It wouldn't even list the software but let me know that it wasn't compatible with Android version 8.I took a hunch and fortunately was able to update the Galaxy S8 to Android version 9, which allowed me to install the FLIR One software, which in turn allowed me to use the FLIR One device.Oh, one more thing, I needed to use a micro-USB to USB-C adapter to use the FLIR One device on the Galaxy S8, but the first one I tried didn't work with the phone. Fortunately another hunch, to try another micro-USB to USB-C adapter was successful.I hope these tips are helpful. And thanks again!

author: jweaver
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2022, 01:21:14 pm
content: I just spotted this thread and it was interesting to read about the issues with the Flir ONE.Can i ask a question.. I have a G2 Flir One.and have only used it a few times... Its in mint/original condition (with box) and perfect working order. I have just bought a PC210 so was going to sell the Flir ONE and got an idea of its value from other similar sales on eBay..I wasn't aware of the reliability problems and now worried that if I sell it and it breaks down, the buyer might come back at me and I don't want the hassle.So what is a fair asking price for a working Flir One in as new condition? But cheap enough where I could say "sold as seen" should anyone come back to me later with a failure?Jon

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2022, 02:21:48 pm
content: I suggest you not concern yourself about the F1G2 reliability issues as you hear of the failures but there were many thousands of these cameras sold and most are happily working in daily use years after purchase. There appear to have been production batches with sub-standard reflow soldering or poor batteries. My F1G2 is one of the first sold and is still happily working...yet I have at least 5 faulty units bought on eBay that are not worth my time to repair. Whilst the F1G2 and F1G3 are the least reliable products I have ever seen from FLIR, but not all of them fail.Sell it as working after you have tested it and worry not about it failing soon after. Buying used products brings risks with it and buyers know that. Worst case scenario, if it failed and you decided to refund the buyer, you can still resell it as spares/repair.Fraser

author: Vitt
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 26, 2022, 12:56:34 pm
content: Hi All,I have a F1G2 for over 3 years now. and few months back I lend it to one of my colleagues and he brought it back stuck with orange light.from that time I was reading all the hacks that people have tried in this group.I contacted FLIR (Teledyne) for repairs but they mentioned that its not possible.so finally I started trying out hard reset with battery removal but nothing worked.Finally today I removed the back cover and with a heat gun i heated the electronics slowly (not heating specific point on the board but genral heating)after few seconds i could smell some solder and then I stopped. then I let the camera cool down a bit put the battery in again.at this point the Orange LED was ON again (solid). bt upon pressing the ON/OFF button for few seconds it switched OFF and then I restarted the camera and it was working again.Thank you for all information provided in this blog.finally I decided to post back on the blog which really helped.Once again Thank you all.

author: nmg196
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 02, 2023, 02:02:57 pm
content: Vitt - following your post I decided to try this with mine. Previously the board was *completely* dead with no sign of life at all (even with a brand new battery and checking that power went from the connector to the board).Now I get both LEDs lighting up as soon as it's plugged in and it looks like it's trying to boot (LED changes colour when you press the button) but unfortunately I accidentally unsoldered the tiny cable which goes to the optical camera module. I suspect this isn't fixable now :/As an aside, does anyone know if the device can be recognised by the app without any battery connected? (when it's working)

author: StephE
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 24, 2023, 10:24:03 am
content: Hello,i have a FLIR One Gen2 iOS that has a problem with the optical camera, everything else seems to work fine.Does anybody know where/how to find one (Truly A472F-A1-E on the flex cable) ?I would like to test what happens if i replace it before i start reballing anything.Thanks

author: admxxx
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 01, 2024, 05:07:22 pm
content: Hi all,My serial console shows Romboot and that’s it, is it the eeprom or the Atmel chip? Or is it that the firmware erased ??does anybody has the firmware dump?