Car audio - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sspj9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 06:49:14 pm
content: I installed my new car stereo and it worked very good. However, when I inserted a CD, the stereo turned off and it wouldn't turn on again. Can you help me figure out what the problem is please? Maybe its because I didn't turn on the car? Also, should I have taken out the exterior filter box of the power cables which were with my old car stereo (which consists of a transformer and capacitor)? I don't think its the case though since it wouldn't switch on before I inserted the CD.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 06:56:13 pm
content: Quote from: sspj9 on March 22, 2013, 06:49:14 pmEither the fuse is way too small and blew when the CD load motor kicked in, or the stereo itself is a piece of crap. Considering my general experience with aftermarket car stereos (and my general experience with fuses...) I'm guessing the latter. Check your connections, as well - I have fixed a number of stereo installations for friends and I have yet to see one who did a good job connecting the wires.QuoteThat's an easy one to check. Turn on the car and try it.QuoteProbably doesn't matter.The poll thing is silly.

author: sspj9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 07:03:54 pm
content: QuoteDon't think so...its Sony

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 07:10:01 pm
content: So start troubleshooting. What is its behavior - is it completely dead? Does it "try" to turn on? Unplug it and measure the voltage on the power connection - is it powered? If it has a removable display, check for power on the display connector. Check your connection between the display and the main unit. Check all the fuses (there is usually one either inline or on the back of the stereo as well as the one in the fuse box). If the connection is powered and it acts like it's completely dead, either open it and look for obvious signs of bad things that happened, or return it and get a new one.BTW, I don't know what Sony car stereos are like, but I've used a lot of Sony products in general that were definitely crap. Not quite "Wun Hung Lo" quality level, but notgood.

author: sspj9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 07:13:54 pm
content: I'll start troubleshooting tomorrow then. Thanks

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 07:24:04 pm
content: In order of probability:Fuse blownWrong wiringLoose connectionPoor ground connection.DOA radio unit.I had a whole pile of Sony stuff that lasted warranty period then died. Most was not repairable, as you needed new boards, new IC's and such, so I no longer buy Sony. I take it if it is free, but when it stops working I convert it to spare parts.

author: sspj9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2013, 05:05:29 pm
content: Ok. I've found the problem. I'd done the troubleshooting and noticed that the constant 12V spply had to be connected together with the red positive supply wire as a common. Now works better than everThanks.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2013, 05:20:08 pm
content: I'm not sure what you mean. You didn't do this, did you?

author: sspj9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2013, 06:35:09 pm
content: I'll take a picture of the wiring tomorrow as I'm not near my car at the moment. For sure it isn't like the image you made. The one I made makes more sense (I forgot how it was exactly). Something like this:Will post the real one tomorrow.

author: Rodville
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2013, 07:17:00 pm
content: Why wouldn't you just connect the clock memory to a constant on +12v lead and the power to a switched lead? Connecting them both together could create problems down the road. At least run a separate fused +12v from the batt to the power and add a switch so you can at least turn it off and not drain the batt if the car sits for an extended time.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2013, 07:28:33 pm
content: Depending on how your car is wired, you could be powering a whole bunch of stuff that's not supposed to be powered while the car is shut off by connecting those wires together. Unless the stereo gets its own isolated ignition switch signal (doubtful), you're sending a constant signal to a bunch of stuff that the ignition switch is always turned on. Your battery will not last long like that.

author: sspj9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2013, 08:39:04 pm
content: Ok its my mistake ...I tend to have connected the wiring as you said first (constant common with). However I don't think is wrong as it was like that when I purchased it. In fact, I just went through its manual and saw these possible combinations. I tend to have connected them as in 'C' :

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2013, 09:38:13 pm
content: i would defiantly change it to configuration 1 if you want to save issues as clock fuses tend to be low current, config C has both pins tied to ignition only, not the vehicles battery and ignition tied together and i truly hope you have not done this as your battery will be dead within a day,find a proper battery connection and wire it to the yellow, and from accessory run it into the red wire,

author: mc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 02:50:30 pm
content: If you've put it in a newer car, there probably isn't a switched feed to the radio. Most modern cars simple have a permanent live to the radio, then turn it on/off via CAN bus.Swapping the wires as per the radio manual is fine, however you've got to remember to turn the radio of everytime you leave the car, otherwise it'll be continually on draining the battery.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 03:13:00 pm
content: Quote from: mowicu on March 24, 2013, 02:50:30 pmUgh... really? Happy to say I haven't done anything with the electronics in a car that new. Seems like every design choice they make these days is specifically intended to cripple serviceability. CAN... really? That's like a coffee maker that is controlled over Ethernet.(Edit: Someone's probably done that with an Arduino or something.)

author: sspj9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 07:24:20 pm
content: Nahh...my car is just a 1998/9 Fiat Punto.Thanks everyone for your help! (I'm used to switching off the radio manually so I wouldn't bother)..At least I have excellent signal form my radio not like the old one

author: mc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 09:19:21 pm
content: Quote from: c4757p on March 24, 2013, 03:13:00 pmCAN is dominating car electrics now, as it cuts down on lots of wiring. Wiring only has to run to the nearest module on the CAN bus, then you have only a few wires linking all the modules up. Gone are the days of trying to identify one of 30+wires in a loom running for meters.Typically High Speed CAN is used for critical stuff like the Engine, ABS, TC, Steering.Low speed is used for non-critical stuff like displays, controls, lights.And then some use Mid-Speed where timing isn't 100% critical but Low speed doesn't have enough bandwidth (typically audio applications).It obviously varies between manufacturers, but they're all using it in some form.Makes diagnostics far simpler, but it does mean you need the right diagnostic kit to find out what's going on.