hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Need help identifying connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: chefkoch84
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2020, 05:06:25 pm
content: Dear all,please help me identifying this connector.(its the charging powersupply for an electrical kick scooter).It does not seem to be one of the common "DC coaxial connectors" - correct?Thanks a lot.Best Max

author: Syntax Error
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2020, 05:26:36 pm
content: I recognise that curiousity from an e-bike charger. You're right in thinking it's a coax power connector. It's the socket end. Ball park, an EIAJ-04 plug at 5.5mm/1.7mm plug might marry with that. Cannot locate a 5.5/1.2 plug though.
Need help identifying inductor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: MondoTV
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 20, 2020, 01:20:10 pm
content: Hi all - I have Benq GL2450B that starts to emit a strong burning smell when turned on. Because it’s burning. Remakably it still works. I opened it up and found a couple of bad caps feeding an inductor. Replaced them but the inductor appears to be bad (probably destroyed the caps) Unfortunately I can’t identify as it has no markings and the and I just have basic electronic skills. It’s part of a DC supply circuit. Although I found circuit diags online they don’t match up with the actual board. Picture attached - you can see the burnt area on the board around the inductor.Sorry forgot to add does have TC1227 on label

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2020, 02:21:16 pm
content: That inductor seems to be part of an LC output filter. Typical values are roughly around 10µH, but the exact value isn't critical. The maximum current is more important. Measure the diameter of the inductor's enamel wire with a caliper to figure out the current rating. Presumably the inductor got hot because of the bad filter caps, e.g. high current draw. And even with the toasty appearance it could be still fine. If the monitor runs great with the new caps simply keep the inductor.

author: MondoTV
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2020, 03:42:50 am
content: Thanks Madires. No the circuit board is still overheating. Iremoved the inductor and it measures .05mH and about 0.1 - 0.2Ohm resistance. Hard to know if that’s bad or something in the control circuit. Pic of tester attached

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2020, 10:25:25 am
content: Is the inductor still overheating? Have you checked the voltage of that rail? Maybe there''s something drawing more current than it should. But I've also seen inductors with a too low current rating to save a few cents, and they run hot of course.
Need help identifying load switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2019, 09:17:48 pm
content: I need help to identify the 6-pin component marked "AQI" in the following thread:https://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=38970&start=20Identifying the component won't help to fix the problem (corrupt NAND data in an SSHD), but I would still appreciate any assistance so that I can add it to my IC database. The OP has provided voltage measurements which suggest that it is a load switch.There is a second mystery component which appears to be a 1.2V LDO regulator, but its markings are not discernible.There is a similar PCB, with a differently marked load switch, in the following thread:https://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=29046Thanks.

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2019, 10:05:57 pm
content: What is the package type?Can you give any more electrical detail? (1,2 in / 4 out / 3 control)Are pins 1,2,5,6 linked as they could be for a MOS drain?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2019, 11:58:04 pm
content: I know nothing more about this component beyond the OP's feedback in those other threads.Pins 1 & 2 appear to be the input (+1.8V), and pin #4 appears to be the output (also +1.8V). This component appears to be involved in power management, otherwise I see no point to it. I find it odd that there appears to be a resistor connected in parallel with the capacitor on pin #4, so I'm wondering whether I've got it wrong.I suppose I could work out the dimensions of the chip by comparing them against the known pitch of the PCB's SATA connector, but that sounds like hard work. :-)

author: LateLesley
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2019, 04:11:32 am
content: OK, I'm not sure I've found the right part, as the datasheet is a 5 pin package, but it does say they come in 6 pin as well. I found this TI LDO with a package marking "AQI".https://datasheet.octopart.com/TPS71550DCKRG4-Texas-Instruments-datasheet-33012771.pdf

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2019, 04:47:17 am
content: The 6-pin (SOT23-6 ?) device is the part which I suspect is a load switch, or maybe a MOSFET operating as a load switch.There is a 4-pin BGA chip below it which I believe is a 1.2V LDO regulator.The TPS7515xx parts don't appear to be suitable in either position. Thanks for looking anyway.
Need help identifying MH8  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: hercegovac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2019, 05:04:02 am
content: Need help identifying MH8?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2019, 05:54:20 am
content: Could it be an NL17SZ74USG (single D flip flop)?https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/NL17SZ74-D.PDF
Need Help Identifying SMD Components - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: daisizhou
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2024, 03:20:59 am
content: This is a picture of the actual product. I can't find the exact model number. If anyone knows, please tell me. Thanks.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2024, 04:14:41 am
content: BCR523U, Infineon, dual NPN digital transistors, 50V, 500 mA, marking XGs, SC74:http://markingcodes.com/search/c/xgshttps://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/196/Infineon_BCR523SERIES_DS_v01_01_en-1226042.pdf

author: daisizhou
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2024, 05:41:43 am
content: OK. Thanks
Need help identifying SMD transistors. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: croaker
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2024, 11:17:44 pm
content: Hi everyone,I can't identify the transistor Q3 (smd code DKKF9 or DDAQX SOT-23), and transistor Q2-Q4 (smd code 67 SC-88).

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2024, 11:38:51 pm
content: Dxxxx = IRLML5103GPBF or IRLML5103PBFhttp://markingcodes.com/search/c/dxxxxhttps://www.skytech.ir/Product_details.aspx?ID_Parts=5081&IRLML5103PBF(photo)https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irlml5103pbf.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a401535668505d2617(datasheet)
Need help Identifying SOT23-6 switching IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Pete66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2020, 03:04:33 am
content: HelloAnyone know what IC this is or who the manufacturer is?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2020, 06:21:11 am
content: That's a good find. I don't know how you managed it. :-?BTW, here is a direct URL (I hate Google's redirects):https://www.leadtrend.com.tw/archive/doc/product/sheets/LD7535A-DS-01c.pdf
Need help identifying these SMD components - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Bargainhunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2023, 08:49:07 pm
content: The one I think is a capacitor 1nf 5% the other marked H L30 I'm not sure.It has three connectors, one on either side and a large connection on the bottom.These are from a Rohde & Schwarz SML01 signal generator.Thank you for any help.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 08:32:51 am
content: I'm guessing the other device is an MMIC RF amplifier.Something like this?https://cdn.macom.com/datasheets/MAPC-S1504.pdf

author: Bargainhunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 11:20:59 pm
content: Looks like you nailed it.The manual states "GaAs transistor (HWL30)"Any idea what a substitution transistor from mouser/digikey would be? This is from the SML-01 9khz to 1.1 ghz?Thank you.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 11:32:11 pm
content: Service manual:https://manuals.repeater-builder.com/te-files/R&S/R&S%20SML_SHB_BD1_03%20service%20part%201.pdfDatasheet for Hexawave HWL30YRA L-Band GaAs Power FET:https://datasheet.datasheetarchive.com/originals/distributors/Datasheets-29/DSA-563756.pdfhttp://www.hw.com.tw/

author: Bargainhunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2023, 12:10:42 am
content: Thank you!
need help identifying this part - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: crazyhog
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2016, 11:30:58 pm
content: Hi all,2 weeks ago I wrote about a broken Power Designs 2005A power supply that has a burnt component. Furthermore the 2005A manual found online (written in 1969) doesn't match my power supply (made in 1974). I clean the burnt component with IPA and took a close look and was able to find some markings on it. Unfortunately, it wasn't going to be that easy!The marking read "TI 731 5" and the packaging is TO-92 (see pic). I did a lot of google search and was unable to find the datasheet for this part.Any guess as to what is this part?Should I simply try my luck and just whack in a NPN and then a PNP and see what happens? Any other tips?

author: christopher iles
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2016, 07:48:05 am
content: Hello,The numbers 7315 may well be a date code (1973, week 15) don't know about the T1 bit though.What part of the psu is the device in? I presume it's in the regulator circuit.I suggest that you take voltage readings at the pins and look at the pcb track to maybe identify the type of device (it looks like a general purpose transistor). You may then get an idea of where the base, collector and emitter are.Hope this is of some help,Regards,Chris.

author: crazyhog
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2016, 08:18:17 am
content: Hi Christopher,Yeah, you are right, TI 7315 is a date code! I'll try your idea.

author: vindoline
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 04, 2016, 06:32:05 pm
content: You have a 2005A with a revised board layout, but the actual circuit probably hasn't changed (much?). ID what this component connects to and then use the schematic to decipher which part it is.

author: BarryBreaux
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2023, 03:22:53 am
content: Did you identify the part?

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2023, 06:39:16 pm
content: OP double-postedhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/need-help-repairing-a-beautiful-power-designs-2005a-power-supply/Power Designs 2005A schematic manualhttps://www.barbouri.com/2018/01/13/power-designs-2005a-precision-power-source/It looks like the TIC47 SCR 200V 0.3A which controls the heater.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/need-help-identifying-this-part-79311/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/power-designs-2005-oven-repair/
Can someone help identifying part number for TCP312A current probe.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: super_electron
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 06:03:22 am
content: Does anyone know the part number of the micro switch S1 shown(broken) in the picture. This switch indicate probe's open or close status to the TCP300 amplifier.A similar switch but not the same part number looks like thishttps://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/c-k/HDT0204/3753546
Need Help in repairing Fluke F179 due to battery leak - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: HoySum
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 16, 2019, 04:22:15 am
content: Hi, i have a Fluke 179 damaged due to battery leaked and cause some damage to the pcb track and missing one or two smd device. Maybe a resistor, jumper or capacitor.The damage is located below the COM input terminal. Near a SMD transistor. The transistor look intact but with some components destroyed by corrosion. It would be most appreciated if you gurus can help me with this issue, Identification of dmd parts and the midding pcb track.Attached is the picture i took.Thanks in advance.

author: paul8f
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2019, 04:47:54 am
content: Ouch... that looks nasty. Not familiar with the Fluke 179, but I'm guessing the nearest terminal post isCOM.Like any product there are different revisions of PCBs and TLAs (Top Level Assembly). What Rev is your model? Get some IPA to that nearby transistor, and tell us what the exact marking on the component case is.A schematic from the 'Service Manual', or even the BOM (Bill of Materials) would be a great help for your detective work on this.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2019, 05:23:33 am
content: Service manual with schematic and bill of materials via Markhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-77-repair-184173/msg2382876/#msg2382876

author: CapLeaker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2022, 10:52:21 am
content: Clean the traced and the knob. Make sure things are facing the right way and the little fingers on the bottom of the knob aren’t bent or missing.

author: Farmi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 30, 2023, 08:15:30 pm
content: hello everyonehope you are all well.I have a fluke 179 with a burnt track due to a current surge.I've already done some tests that I saw in the previous publications that you gave me.MOV,s - gave nothing.the green resistance 1k ohm.the black thing 1k ohm .I will send some pictures.i hope you can help me.
Need help in repairing HP 6632B PSU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Embehu
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2020, 08:03:06 am
content: Hi all,I'm Trung from Vietnam, I got a big trouble with my PSU, 1st the display unit was completely broken so I couldn't see anything. I also contacted Roberto and he is very kind to give me the firmware of the replacement oled for display, but since the "gift" from my neighbor China still there so it's quite difficult to ship from ebay to Vietnam; therefore the display is not available right now.2nd the 7915 and 7815 IC is quite hot but when I check the output +- 15VDC and 5 VDC are still stable, so my quetion here is this normal because I've never seen it before.3rd As you can see in picture, the output of PSU is still perfect and controllable. However, when I connected 1A load, output goes to 0V immediately even I try to push Current , 5 enter on the front panel.To be honest, I'm not an electrical engineer, just enthusiatic. I tried to read Service manual and User manual but it's really tough to understand what they said (eg in Bias check, they said check Test point 310 311 .... but I only found TP 320 321 on main board). So when answering my question, please do me a favor by giving step by step or as simple as possible because I may be do not understand what you said.Please understand that I might give some stupid question due to my knowledge in electric is extremly limitted.Thank you so much for taking time to read my issues and answer my question. I really appriciate your help!

author: kawal
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2022, 12:56:00 am
content: There are two service notes for this unit you need to do.1) the display has an issue with a shorted cap.https://keysightsales--c.na158.content.force.com/sfc/dist/version/download/?oid=00D1a000000awb5&ids=0685a00000OMF6P&d=%2Fa%2F5a000001ASPr%2FFgX0i9BUoq0SeRQP0iAWvNDWyAgyHY5n41sMqi9FcUQ&asPdf=true2) power up glitchhttps://keysightsales--c.na158.content.force.com/sfc/dist/version/download/?oid=00D1a000000awb5&ids=0685a00000OMEgU&d=%2Fa%2F5a000001AS0T%2FoXvBclBDvlID7_NbBxhm_lPwTKxcvrWKZLcXdA8clb0&asPdf=trueI had a unit with shorted cap. it burnt the 5v regulator u301. cap replaced and regulator replaced and now display and unit working.check the notes.
Need Help Locating Replacement USB C Connector For Asus C433 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: iamdarkyoshi
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2020, 12:32:21 am
content: So a customer's USB C port broke on their Asus C433T chromebook. A new board is almost 200$, which is a stupid amount of money for a chromebook motherboard. All that appears to be wrong is that the USB C port that it charges from is broken, and unfortunately it doesn't appear to be a common connector.Here's some photos:https://imgur.com/a/j42XdNFAs you can see, it hangs below the PCB (instead of being centered in the PCB), as well as being through hole, and I and I can't seem to find anything that matches it.The closest I could find is this:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33009758122.htmlwhich doesn't appear to sink the connector below the PCB like the original jack is, and I can't see how the pins are arranged. Thanks for that, aliexpress seller. The original jack appears to have two rows of pins, but I don't know if there's any surface mount crap underneath it.I'm really not sure what to look for on mouser, digikey, arrow, etc since there's so many options.What would you guys suggest? Do you know what part this could be or where to source it?

author: PeteH
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 14, 2020, 02:20:07 am
content: Hard one to locate. Not sure where it'll be available in low quantityhttps://m.globalsources.com/gsol/I/USB-3.1/p/sm/1165984404.htm

author: JKKDev
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2020, 05:56:05 am
content: Is it maybe the C-12 connector type from this seller?https://h5.aliexpress.com/item/32801092666.html?spm=a2g0n.seo-amp-search.searchResult.32801092666If that's not it maybe the 2 from this one?https://h5.aliexpress.com/item/32979023106.html?spm=a2g0n.seo-amp-search.searchResult.32979023106

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2020, 08:34:34 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on March 14, 2020, 06:08:04 amBecause it shows a...female connector.

author: iamdarkyoshi
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2020, 04:31:51 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on March 14, 2020, 06:08:04 amStupid AI bullshit thinking my finger is tits or somethingTry these:https://i.imgur.com/8G0zyG8_d.jpg?maxwidth=69420https://i.imgur.com/3ntR39J_d.jpg?maxwidth=69420https://i.imgur.com/Xf8ZDeE_d.jpg?maxwidth=69420

author: iamdarkyoshi
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2020, 05:02:59 pm
content: So I removed the USB C connector and sadly it doesn't look like any of the options posted so far.Apologies for potatocam, I can't find my magnifying lens, so I have to use digital zoom AKA crop and upscaleSome are really close, but nothing matching.But I've now spotted that the machine has another USB C port on the daughterboard, and it won't charge off of it either.I'm wondering if the original port breaking has damaged the mainboard now... With the potential to send 20v across the data pins, I wouldn't doubt it
Need help on transformer replacement suit fossil engel fridge - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: badtrace
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 13, 2021, 11:19:01 am
content: Hey all,I am restoring an old 2nd generation 12v engel car fridge. The oscillator and transformer are both cactus and need to build a replacement, but i am stuck on one thing, and that is how to drive the compressor (22-25vac at around 2.2-2.5amps and 50hz) from a 12vdc source. I know i will likely need to build an oscillator which is no issue however it seems impossible to find a suitable ironcore transformer. I am asking if there is a better way of driving this compressor or if there's a suitable transformer out there for 12v oscillation to 25vac.~BadTrace
Need Help - Phillip PM5150 Service Manual - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: chihaxinh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2016, 07:14:04 am
content: Hi everybodyI have one Signal Generator - Fluke-Phillip PM5150 have signal gain error in output . I need repair but don't have service manual, i searching in internet but not found in time.Many thank so much !Best regardsNam Nguyen Hai

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2016, 09:44:34 am
content: There's a 4.3 MB file available from this link, I hope it helps:https://docs.google.com/document/d/1oVWSPpP0fz5nIWPFgwxMuD2-KBk7zCYsmqgIv4Tgkig/editIt leads to this URL:http://us1.springfiles.net/?d=hY6nRW3Hul50lvcdSdCjLGPZ92swtbgUe6DobSDq1TAn%2B9RgQeHeYkDl2Gsd7MACHuyRAQLQzA8OgcxeXtojXxyYYQQdhHpZfMU5SHnBIrF8zyS3azY1qSZofPs8Z1P%2BfDYHwAt%2BHrlKNl3zC2xXzBxxatEXUkrCGUoflVgeb4JcAGfD8FEq0NldKZ2wGjL66ggxoad4dPqhImrirn0D5rN1V7XGfQ%2Fvwmdfvp9hQIKfaVnWhldK0oVWT9yLWLjFnECnhLcS4J%2FkTq%2FO%2Bk2lNfhLtyvw4utkoff4fYX%2BxGGt5cp5wKqLLtS2gT2e%2FMJ8jfDcQpzU5kKGhocNy5rwHcmZ6wQ3nvoDJJjvVG%2FBpix82Pd9MJCxInqtrTw6uIxzK%2F3QZwK9iDVTtYF9BvqBAlyomwJAv5APFN7fXBjEIwdan1oULYVnDzSNL0VotkuhMw%3D%3DThen auto loads a downloader.It's an EXE file so I'm not sure it can be trusted, take care.I've got other places to search so let us know if it's any good or not and I'll have another search.

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2016, 11:56:18 am
content: The output power amplifier or the step attenuator are probably faulty.If you don't find the service manual of the PM5150, you could use the service manual of the PM5193.It is possible that the output power amplifier and the step attenator are the same.http://isurplus.com.au/manuals/Philips%20PM5193%20Service%20Manual.pdf

author: enp13
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 24, 2018, 05:08:53 am
content: On an unrelated note, have you noticed that it emits a -10V 90ms long pulse from the output connector when you first power it on? Mine does that. Very annoying! Surprised I can't find anything about this bug on the internet. My firmware version is 1.11

author: dodge bullets
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 27, 2023, 01:43:30 am
content: Quote from: enp13 on May 24, 2018, 05:08:53 amI have the same ugly negative pulse on startup. You would think they would mute the output while this occurs.Now that I am aware of this, I will ensure that I am not hooked to anything that can be harmed by this pulse (I have the same firmware version).I was looking for a new fan, this one is far too noisy.
Need help quashing RF from my generac home generator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Tim88
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2025, 09:05:26 pm
content: I repair vintage radios and I have quite the conundrum that am hoping I can get some assistance with. Put in a generac whole house generator a couple years ago. I hadn't fooled with anything AM related recently till this past winter. Noticed some RF interference from the bottom of the ban up to about 1100kHz. Above that, seems to be gone. It is broadcast, can pick up with pocket radio. Went all through the house checking stuff when it dawned on me that it had to be that SMPS in the generator. Finally warming up so had time to go outside and investigate.I poked around the main board of the generator with a handheld scope and getting RF emitting from the top of the case.I picked up a used board from the interweb, powered it up and think I found the source, a diode STTH802.board picI also tried hooking an antenna to my spectrum analyzer and it does show the RF. It is a span of 100kHz to 2MHz, shows my local 1420 AM and all the crud under about 1100kHz.So, how to remedy this? I could of course shut the whole generator down but that is pretty involved, would prefer a fix. All I can come up with is some sort of shielding? Am open to ideas and appreciate input in advance.

author: Tim88
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2025, 09:12:36 pm
content: Sorry, the pics posted out of order. Also, the range of the RF is about 100ft.
Need help repair FLUKE 867B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Vedran
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 30, 2016, 10:18:16 am
content: Hi there,I'm new member to your community and I'm glad that I've found you guys.I have FLUKE 867B and half of it's features doesn't work. When I select LOGIC, Component test, SET UP, ~V, V I get nothing on display (Image attached).When I select mV, Ohm, diode, mA or A everything works fine. Display is showing everything and I can do measurements (Image attached).I have found Manual on this link:http://monitor.espec.ws/files/service_206.pdfI have disassemble it two times until now and I tried to clean contacts and check one relay but it all works fine. Can you please tell me is there anything I can do or what component to check inside? Thank you very much for any help.

author: Jacek_Paw
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2016, 12:07:24 pm
content: On one side of the board under the knob slider you can find black coated (probably with carbon) pads. Basing on the slider position over the pads the meter determines the selected function if there is a problem with contact none function is selected.Try to clean the pads with IPA or maybe even try to scrub (gently and carefully) them a bit with thin sandpaper.In my unit the described method solved identical problem.

author: Vedran
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 30, 2016, 12:54:47 pm
content: Thank you Jacek for your replay. It works now for AC and DC like a charm!!! SET UP and COMPONENT TEST doesn't work but I don't care!I did this cleaning for three times and it didn't work. Now I've disassemble contact all together from PCB. Scrub little harder with sandpaper and small screwdriver (only for metal parts) and even found hidden metal contact plate under plastic ring (Image attached).Thank you very much for your time!

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2016, 07:00:18 pm
content: Your problem is very similar to these two modemhead blog entries.http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-83-iii-rotary-switch/http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-83-dmm-repair/

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2022, 01:29:16 pm
content: I had the same problem, today I have seen that the fault is connection between confuctive carbon pad and copper, 500ohms aprox. If you make some pressure it works again, this explain why when I clean it works for a while. I have put some silver conductive paint and now it works.

author: nedsim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 01, 2024, 12:11:59 am
content: I know this is an old thread, but wanted to add my nod to the tips offered up. I picked up an 867 that would not enter any of the modes on the left of the dial. Cleaning the selector switch contacts solved my problems as well. Used an acid brush with the bristles trimmed short and isopropyl to gently scrub the carbon pads on the PCB. Strips of copy paper with a drop of isopropyl inserted between the contact fingers cleaned them up. And thanks for the mention of the contact on the back of the wafer that's visible thru the hole. All in all, pretty easy.
need help repair my 53131a - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: f14
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2022, 06:51:34 am
content: Hi All,I have problems with my 53131a. it show QSPI and INTERP fail in power on self testI open it and check A4 power supply board . it okay with power output in specs. then I check a A1 mainboard. I see something strange in C60 C61 cap. votage not stable (changing ~2v <->5v) . and the U42 (LM337) it hotter than U48(LM337) a lotthank you

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2022, 03:53:46 pm
content: Since it's still pumping the regulator is not the first suspect.What else is hot?It seems to be an over current situation.

author: Wallace Gasiewicz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2022, 10:45:48 pm
content: I agree with the over current statement.I am not familiar with repair of that unit.However some HP units have a current sense and the supply will cut out if there is a failure on another section of the unit or another board.Could be something simple like one of the smaller filter caps for the ICs....

author: f14
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2022, 05:07:55 am
content: thanks for your replyThis is first time I repair frequency counter ,. I have no exp with this device beforeafter few day. I found C60 C61 with voltage changing from ~2 to 5V seem normal because the frequency same with two blinking status leds (channel 1&2). and U42 and U48 working properly. my 53131a serial above MY470000. so I can't use old service manuals from agilentbtw I use a Printer ON via RS232 to see more details about this error and I have 4 line:-Interpolator : A , MRC mode Fail-Interpolator : B , MRC mode Fail-Interpolator : B , CC mode Fail-QSPI : HEX DAC Fail

author: madao
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2023, 04:32:03 pm
content: HiI have a 53131A with bad PSU .After fixing of bad PSU, it works again with QSPI:FAIL and INTERP:FAIL message.It was only U4, MC14410DW, hex DAC with SPI interface..I have raped a 53181 skeleton and pull their U4 and place it into 53131AIt works again with no Error Message.Regardsmatt
need help repairing 2006 "Zoundz" toy - broken rfid - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sookie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 13, 2025, 09:50:44 pm
content: Hi! I have zero experience with electronics so please forgive my noobness here. I also hope it is okay to post here and this is s good place to do this, these forums were suggested to me but I'm not familiar with them.From what I gather this is an RFID chip, when placed on a white soundboard inside a rubber shell it's supposed to make noises from the toy. It seems common online that these stop working over time and corrode as it's an old toy, early 2000s. I had 3 that didn't work, 2 of which I've fixed by cleaning with white vinegar and 99% isopropyl alcohol. This last chip though just doesn't seem to be working at all.Advice would be so appreciated. In the photos ive included 2 pictures from the factory schematics, to show how it also "should" look. Does my piece need more cleaning? Is there something out of place, or that needs repairing? I know it's just a dumb toy but it's actually something I always wanted as a kid and they're very hard to come by, getting this repaired is kind of a sentimental thing to me. Thank you!

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2025, 10:36:37 pm
content: Have you used a soldering iron on this board? There is a little solder connection between these two pads, I'm not sure if it was an intentional choice from the factory or not. EDIT: Actually it could be, these might be configuration jumpers to choose the toy subtype/model.It looks like this device might use the coil both for speaker driving and RFID comms? Interesting if so.I am not sure how the vinegar would help, unless the insulation on the coil wire (clear varnish) is so poor that it degrades or the vias on the circuit board are really poor.(1) Try probing different parts of the coil surface with a multimeter on beep mode, the clear varnish on it should mean you never get it to conduct (beep). Only the ends where it is soldered should be conductive (no clear vanish coating).(2) Try probing opposite sides of the circuit board vias (little holes) with a multimeter on beep mode. Every via should connect both sides reliably with metal. You might need to scrape away a little bit of the green soldermask to get at nearby metal tracks.
Need help repairing a Yaesu FT 736 220 mhz module - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: WB8PFZ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2024, 08:49:56 pm
content: I have a schematic but could use a road map what is going on in the PLL section. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Mike

author: DeepLink
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2024, 08:27:19 am
content: I've worked a lot on these transceivers, though the 220MHz band are not used here in EuropeWhat seems to be your problem with your module?Only the 220MHz Module?RX or TX frequencies? Or both?/HansBTW - this topic could have been places here,https://www.eevblog.com/forum/rf-microwave/,to get more attention
Need help repairing E5071B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: CrazyTiger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2021, 07:29:15 am
content: Hi,I happen to come across a E5071B with a defective A3 Module(level vernier). The output power is down by 60dBm. Self-Test also fails at A3. Taking apart the A3 Module, I found 2 sets of Agilent made chips. 1GG7-4236 AND 1GC1-4213.Google did not yield any result for the 1GG7-4236, for 1GC1-4213, Its an amplifier.https://www.keysight.com/my/en/product/1GC1-8213-BLK/dc10ghz-power-amplifier.html#My suspect was the first two chip 1GG7-4236, so I bypassed them both and turned on the unit. I got a trace, with 3 dB loss. Which at least indicates my amplifier is working. My guess is 1gg7-4236 is a variable attenuator/pin diode. I believe its used to fine tune output level, which makes sense with the module name. Now i am stuck as I am not sure if my theory is right. Anyone can provide info on the chip?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2021, 06:32:49 pm
content: If you bypass each IC separately, what attenuation do you see for each IC?Pin #11 is driven by the output of an OP284 op amp (unless I've incorrectly identified the pinout). Does the voltage on this pin vary during the self test? I expect that pin #11 is an analogue control pin.Have you tried matching the pinout to other 1GG7-nnnn parts at keysight.com?
Need help repairing Miller welder Power board PN 230855B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Symax
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2021, 04:11:22 am
content: I'm doing a repair for a friend in the hopes that he'll do some metal work for me in the future. I'm trying to find the data sheet for 25N12LL from Sirectifier so I can find a replacement part. I'm guessing the 25 in the component part number means 25 amps for an N pole transistor. I'm not sure what the 12 or the LL part mean so that I can find the equivalent replacement.

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2021, 04:29:07 am
content: Maybe a 25N120 IGBT?

author: Symax
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2021, 10:11:04 pm
content: Quote from: BrokenYugo on June 16, 2021, 04:29:07 amAnd that is the thing. I'm wondering if it is 120V or 1200V. Having the specs from the original part would shed some light on that.

author: mindcrime
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 17, 2021, 12:28:45 am
content: Looking at Sirectifier's website, and looking at apparent patterns in their product listings and part numbers, I'd go out on a limb and bet that the 12 means "1200V". Would I bet mylifeon it? Hmmm... not sure. But a few dollars anyway.Maybe try contacting the company? sales@sirectifier.com shows up on the website. Who knows, maybe you get lucky and get somebody friendly on the first try and they give you the exact info you need? I mean... that's gotta happen every once in a while, right?

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2021, 02:52:09 am
content: If the manufacturer is still in business it certainly doesn't hurt to ask.
Need help repairing my fluke-124-scopemeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: MMMHANAFY
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 10, 2021, 01:07:47 pm
content: Just bought fluke-124-scopemeter used as new still has the transparent sticker on screenI bought it with a really too much money for me the only problem was the battery has a little drainso I was wondering if I can measure the cells by scop it self cause I didn't have a multimeter at that time ,once I contacted the com black lead to one of cells it turned off and never work again , I opened the device and followed the service manual but no result ,the only result is the masking firmware work if I pressed right and up buttons ,I measured a lot of small components but seems fine, I contacted fluke US but they told me that fluke 124 is no longer supported , If any body has any experience for such a problem please help me ..

author: abdulbadii
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2021, 01:35:09 pm
content: Quote from: MMMHANAFY on October 10, 2021, 01:07:47 pmFirst, clarify or elaborate it

author: MMMHANAFY
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 12, 2021, 01:46:23 am
content: I did it once before in a multi-meter it was fine , beside I was pretty sure that such a good brand like fluke should has a perfect protection like to isolated the battery power because they already use transformers inside like in the fly back converter and charging circuit..

author: abdulbadii
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2021, 10:48:12 pm
content: have PC with Windows or Linux WIne installed?install LTSpicegethttps://drive.google.com/file/d/16RVgP5UDUI79lv17VLzlOSHrV9EOeX3f/view?usp=sharingtry as narrow as possible the most likely troubledo schema of that and simulate it
Need help repairing Orange Pi One board with missing component/trace - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: HcSvntDracones
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 07, 2019, 09:27:50 pm
content: I have an Orange Pi One that had the USB port snap off, and in the repair process, I had used a new soldering iron that seems to get waaaay too hot, and I am not super experienced, more dangerous than anything.. and as expected, a cap and a resistor fell off, along with part of the trace, which made it very hard to identify where these connected. After hunting down a schematic, I figured out that these were in the Reset circuit, coming offa 1AM transistor on the collector pin, is a split to a 10k resistor and a 0.1 uf cap. The cap goes to ground and the 10k resisotr goes to VCC-RTC. I can NOT figure out where I make a physical connection to VCC-RTC. I see a pin on the H3 labled as VCC-RTC but the board has nowhere to make a connection at, and you can't see any visible traces. I was thinking I might be able to go to the last connection before VCC-RTC for other components, but not positive.The schematic is athttp://linux-sunxi.org/images/7/7e/ORANGE_PI-ONE-V1_1.pdfand the part in issue is on page 6 near the bottom, labeled RESET-OPTION, the board won't boot as is, and prior to my oops, i had to short the missing resistor pads to get it to boot, but it would randomly reboot. The missing components are C65 and R347, along with the trace going from Q9 pin 3 to VCC-RTC and Ground. So I would really like to just verify how to reconnect these 2 pieces, well, specifically, VCC-RTC. I assume i put a cap on ground, connected to a resistor to VCC-RTC and then connect q9 collector pin in between the two. The mentioned ESD diode was never installed, and I believe that AP-RESET# is also not connected.THANKS!
Need help repairing Philips Htl5120 soundbar - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Samrok50
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 21, 2019, 09:13:13 am
content: Everything works in soundbar expect audio. No audio coming from speakers. Speakers tested and ok. Bluetooth working so is video through hdmi but still no audio. Bluetooth connected but still no audio.. attachment pic of board so please help. Don't found no burn part on pcb also

author: Samrok50
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 27, 2019, 07:06:01 am
content: I thought this forum was a quick response one but still after many days there is no single response

author: jogri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2019, 12:00:55 pm
content: How are we supposed to help if you don't provide any information? Have you taken a look at the underside of those PCBs? Have you checked the capacitors? I suggest you start backtracing from the connector to the speakers.

author: Samrok50
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 27, 2019, 03:24:20 pm
content: Yes I did checked the caps. Board power on ok.as said above only thing don't work is audio no audio from speakers

author: Samrok50
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 29, 2019, 01:37:11 pm
content: Can anyone give me the service manual for this device

author: Samrok50
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 03, 2019, 03:01:38 pm
content: Anyone

author: Samrok50
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 10, 2019, 03:42:14 am
content: This form is letting me down

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2019, 06:30:16 am
content: https://store.payloadz.com/details/2482632-ebooks-technical-philips-htl5120-service-manual-and-technicians-guide.html

author: Samrok50
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 11, 2019, 05:18:37 am
content: Sure you want some money too

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2019, 09:12:58 pm
content: I think you have some understanding issues or translation issues, i gave you a link to buy a service manual, im not affiliated with this site.@jogri asekd you a question and you did not provide any answers, change your messages tone if you want to get help.Where not god here by the way.
Need help ripped capacitors off board while delidding cell cpu on ps3 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Danthegreat356
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2021, 03:47:57 pm
content: so i was trying to fix my ps3 fat mobo cok-001 its the caps between the cpu/gpu bus and between the ram and the gpu its described the the service manual herehttps://www.manualslib.com/manual/830290/Sony-Playstation-3-Sm-Ps3-0013e-02.html?page=29#manualas the ceramic smd capacitors labeled c1193 c1176 c1186 c1190 the caps in that area that i believe are for bus termination but im not sure i also skinned off the ceramic smd caps comming from the ram going to the gpu the ones labled c1148 and 1150 about all the ones in that row as well isent one pic as an example in the board side a pic please any help would be appriceated thanks i need tha value of those ceramic capacitors

author: aqibi2000
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2021, 04:59:37 pm
content: Just remove the old ones from a scrap board

author: Danthegreat356
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2021, 05:14:20 pm
content: I dont want to scrap it i just wanna fix it i need to know the cap values for the caps i mentioned on the processor and ram bus

author: aqibi2000
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2021, 05:35:28 pm
content: What I said was remove the Caps needed from a scrap ps3 board, and use them.There was a time where I had 10+

author: Danthegreat356
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2021, 05:38:37 pm
content: Should all ps3s have the same caps for the bus on a fat vs slim etc i think i have a fat ps3 mobo that is no good i might try that one or buy another one

author: aqibi2000
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2021, 07:14:40 pm
content: Same cpu gpu
Need help  -Tek Tds3012B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: soesante
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2024, 08:57:53 am
content: Hello.. My TDS3012B stop working, after not using it for about a month... there is no trace and diagnostic fail at acquisition ... (the disk drive has been removed so it fail)..I have measure around the voltages and all seems ok.. the 75.75mhz oscl also measure correctly (the 3.3v and the frequency).. is any one could suggest where to start?..i attached some photo of the unit , the fw version , the diagnostic and the screen with no trace... thank youModify message

author: soesante
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2024, 04:17:22 am
content: It works.. after poking around and found nothing obvious.. I reasembled it and the trace is back after some noise of relay clicking.. not sure what is the cause of the problem but it could be one of the relay is stuck... tried to power on/off several times and it seems fine now..Btw - is there a way to test the nvram battery onboard ?... its a dallas DS1742W-120..
Need help testing Cosel ZUW25 2415 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: JJ_023
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2024, 06:11:37 pm
content: I took this off a donor board. I am trying to see if the unit is functional. I tried giving it power 30V. applied to V+ and V-.I could not get an output. I checked for output on V+ V- and combinations thereof with COM.If you look at the pictures you can see the board is potted. Does anybody know how to test these for functionality?I would also be interested in hearing opinions on the module as a power supply to experiment with on operational amplifiers.Here is the datasheet.https://en.cosel.co.jp/product/powersupply/ZUW/ZUW25/ZUW252415/As usual thanks to anybody that decides to participate.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2024, 08:02:10 pm
content: have you checked out the instruction manual pdf, they are simple to put in use

author: JJ_023
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2024, 09:39:46 pm
content: Quote from: coromonadalix on January 19, 2024, 08:02:10 pmI have checked out the instructions. Apparently either I am incapable of following them or it's broken. lolAll kidding aside I am a little stumped as it seems fairly easy to implement.Thank you for the response.
Need help testing the function of this medical chair controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Brathahn
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2020, 05:29:56 pm
content: Hello,i have this controller board for a medical chair wich i have to test. Unfortunately i dont have any documentation or the chair itself.As far as i know this board controls some motors via relays to move the chair up, down and in some other directions.On first inspection there was some arcing on the 230V side and some dead capacitors due to age. easy fix.Now i want to test this board but i dont know what it does.. so i revese engineered it and drew a schematic:Im not good with analog circuits like this one and i cannot figure out the function. Can anyone tell me how this thing works?Thank you!

author: ivi_yak
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2020, 03:03:42 pm
content: Hi, pls convert your schematic to PDF and I'll describe you whats going here

author: Brathahn
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2020, 12:06:09 pm
content: Hello,unfortunately i cannot create a pdf that large.I can provide a bigger schematic if that helps you? The one i posted is already 4700px by 4700px big.

author: Brathahn
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 03:06:28 pm
content: Hello,my friend made a pdf for me. so here you go

author: ivi_yak
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2020, 08:37:50 pm
content: Hi, first you go you need to restore soldering I'll mark with red. After that apply power 220v to P3.1 and P3.4, be carefully board has no isolation so all staff will be under 220 line potential according to your draw (I'll recommend to use isolating transformer). After that check power of LM342 opamp between 4 vcc and 11 gnd legs should be around 25V. seems R-HL are the signals from safety interlocks which block all outputs of LM342 and turn off relays into some default state. Also A1 connector is some error indicating external led. For further tests you need to connect some loads to relays outputs and apply voltage to P2.5 P2.6 P2.10 P2.1 P2.2 to check relay acting normally.
Need help to find old connector name - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: greenstrike
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2022, 08:35:17 am
content: Goodmorning to all,I'm searching for these old connectors, I know this connector type was commonly used many years ago in different boards (Philips monitors, boilers, and so on).I don't know connector name/brand, maybe someone remembers....Thanks.

author: pbarton
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2022, 09:09:35 pm
content: CamdenBoss CTM1300/7 Polarised 7 Way Header PCB Connector Malehttps://www.rapidonline.com/camdenboss-ctm1300-7-polarised-7-way-header-pcb-connector-male-22-0053

author: greenstrike
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2022, 10:52:19 am
content: Ok, thanks, found!