hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Half Bridge Layout - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: PsychedelicBreakfast
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2013, 01:40:38 pm
content: I've been tasked to find the real world performance of a few Half-Bridge drivers. The drivers share the same pinout so I've decided to lay out a proper PCB for one and then test each empirically. Because of my inexperience I am finding it a bit difficult to see if I have an optimum layout. From the research that I've done it seems that it's paramount to reduce the loop area of the high-side's bootstrap cap and also between gate signal (to the high side) and it's return path (HS). Here's how I've done it:Note that this is a 2-layer board the bottom is a GND polygon but I have not shown here to make it easier to see other signals. C9 is the bootstrap capacitor.NetR9_1is the return path of the driver's high side output. Notice that it is beneath the FET's gate path to reduce the loop area. Since the low-side's return is just connected to GND I let the GND plane handle the return signal. This should automatically ensure that the return signal follows the path of least impedance (I hope...).The frequency of operation that I'm aiming for is 20 KHz with rise times in the vicinity of tens of nanoseconds (hence my focus on the layout). I am still unsure of the value of the bootstrap capacitor I should use. Perhaps 100nF? Would appreciate some advice on this.So since I need to give this layout for fabrication I just wanted to ask here if I'm missing anything or if there's anything I can do to improve this layout still. The Half-Bridge driver in consideration is the MIC4102 and MAX51018.The drain pads of the SMD FETs are so large because of the smt heatsink.
Half minipcie card vertical placement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ctzof
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 14, 2014, 01:45:46 pm
content: We are designing a new product now based on halfminipcie cards but we are having space problems with the host board that these cards are going to fit to. One possible solution is to place these half mini pcie cards in vertical position rather than horizontal. There are similar products that follow this idea like the Z77-ITX WiFi Mini-ITX motherboard from Zotac. After a little search I couldn't find any of these vertical connectors in the market. Has anybody an idea where to find these type od connectors along with the mounting case or any other way to vertical place the card on the board using smallest board space as possible? Thanks.
Hall effect current sensors in series for max resolution / offset - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: max_torque
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2025, 02:29:42 pm
content: HI all,I am looking at a high precision, low offset Coulumb counting shunt. It needs a high dynamic range and critically, a very low zero current offset as large amounts of time are sat at low currents (<1A) and yet peak current is 200A. Obviously there are COTS solutions, but i was wondering if there are any "tricks" one can play here. Cost is not a big issue as production volume is low, and i can do a "zero current" offset calibration in software, but not very often, so i need a good temp co as the temp of the measurement device will change over time and with load. PS, i need a "Non contact" solution, ie hall effect etc as the sensing bus is up to 1000VdcOne thing i though about was to use two hall effect sensors of different measurement ranges, and to deliberately let the "small" one saturate, and use a Kalman filter to smoothly merge their two outputs into one better value so as to avoid the larger zero current offset of the larger sensor dominating at low currents.Anyone done anything similar?Thanks

author: MisterHeadache
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2025, 04:08:23 pm
content: Quote from: max_torque on February 11, 2025, 02:29:42 pmYep, this is a common solution. For example, LEM has COTS dual-range sensors. You can make one yourself by using two stand-alone sensors. You do need to check the maximum current of the lower range sensor, though. The Hall effect IC is not damaged by overcurrent, but the core material the sensor uses might be slightly permanently magnetized (remanence) if it cannot withstand the higher current. Remanence would put an offset in the reading for measuring DC. Also you'd not want to put them right next to each other, as the magnetic fields of their cores would couple.
Hall Effect Sensor Help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: bhorobec
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2015, 06:32:57 pm
content: Hi,I'm working on a project where I must sense the rotational position of a magnet which is placed around a PCB. The magnet is polarized diametrically and the PCB is placed so its plane is parallel with the magnet's plane of rotation (see photo).My original idea was to use 2 sot-23 hall sensors, positioned 90 degrees apart which could sense the x and y components of the field from the magnet. These signals would be fed into a microcontroller, to calculate the angular position of the magnet.I've run into a bit of a snag, where all the hall effect sensors I've been able to find only sense the component of the magnetic field which is perpendicular to their top surface, not parallel, which means they won't sense the magnet's position at all.Is anyone aware of a hall sensor (preferrably in a sot-23 or similar SMD package) which could do what I need? I am aware that there are many sensors in TO-92 like packages which would work, but I would much prefer SMD.Also, I've seen some single chip solutions such as this:http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ams/AS5601-ASOM/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu5vlrqIFXt5R6ZCNFfpMv6e%252bGA%2fic6dhn4cek6HjdixA%3d%3dThe problem here is that it must run off of an unregulated rechargable li-ion cell (2.8 - 4.2V) and none of the chips I've found can fit that bill.Thanks in advance for your help.

author: jt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2015, 04:31:54 am
content: Maybe this? (link downloads .pdf data sheet)http://www.melexis.com/Asset/Datasheet-MLX90360-DownloadLink-5989.aspxI've worked with it (or something very similar) in the past and it is a pretty neat device.
Hall Effect Sensor Options - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sygirl101
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 28, 2012, 01:28:30 pm
content: I'm currently using a hall effect sensor to track the rotation of a magnet in a project. However, the profile of almost all Hall Effect sensors that I've found are quite large (something like this). I'm trying to find a similar linear Hall Effect sensor but that either looks out of the top or has a smaller profile. Does anyone know of anything?

author: qno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 29, 2012, 02:51:50 pm
content: You can file someting off the case.The chip usually is a small spec in the middle.How big do you need?

author: LukeW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2012, 05:13:07 am
content: You can get little SOT-23 SMDs, for example DigiKey AH1751-WG-7-ADICT-ND.

author: DaveW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2012, 11:06:05 am
content: I have used the A3212ELHLT-T parts from Allegro frequently. They are in a SOT-23 package and have one of the highest sensitivities you can get in the package/temperature range requirements that we were working to, and return a clean digital outputhttp://datasheet.octopart.com/A3212ELHLT-T-Allegro-datasheet-14387.pdf
Hall Effect vs Proximity Sensor ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Madsaaby
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2012, 07:48:38 pm
content: Hello guysI'm wondering how accurate a Hall Effect sensor could be ?Say I want add end-stops to a moving block on a single axis (Linear rail with ball screw and stepper). I'm sure Hall Effect sensors could do the job, but could I use these as a reference for absolute position ?I have seen a video on Youtube with a guy using a Proximity sensor for absolute position on a CNC, and it measured spot on every time. So I'm wondering if that would be the best solution.. ?I'm looking for something like 0,05 mm accuracy, or there about (The block will move in steps of 0,005 mm). But I have no idea if this is possible with the hall effect, sorry if I'm asking a stupid questionNever used one before, but I did order a few to try them out..Do any of you have any experience with these, or know about the accuracy .. ?Best Regards-Mads

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2012, 07:51:31 pm
content: My experiences with proximity sensors have been less than desired .... it leaves lots to be desired

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 06, 2012, 03:31:47 am
content: Hall effect sensors are extremely accurate, but they need to be close (~4-10 mm) to the detecting surface.We use them (3X) in 12/24 pole AC motors to control firing at up to several 1000 RPM. If they hadpoor repeatability, we'd have serious problems controlling the motor.Proximity sensors can be ok too, but you have a few more issues to keep an eye on (repeatability).The "beam / sense path" has to be tight, so they're better at slightly larger distances (cm's) BUTthey can suffer from reflections so they can't be too close. They really are better for larger distances,with not too critical accuracy.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2012, 04:58:00 am
content: There are precision microswitches with the required accuracy specs you are looking for. I know RS has them.

author: Rudolfo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2012, 10:41:56 pm
content: There are linear hall encoder, like the iC-ML (http://www.ichaus.biz/product/iC-ML), which can give a 20um resolution with a 5,12mm NS pole pair. The linear speed is up to 5m/s and the output can be digital counting pulses or analog sawtooth. Application can be found at EDN:http://www.edn.com/article/470153-Speed_acquisition_made_simple.php

author: Madsaaby
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2012, 08:55:14 pm
content: Thanks a lot for the replies guys..Sounds like it will do the job. I did receive the sensors, but I did not yet have the time to build the thing.. :/-Mads
hall sensor 55100-3H-02-A for igniton. Need help  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: tomcer34
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2022, 08:14:02 pm
content: Hi, I´m building ignition system for my bike. And I want to use 55100-3H-02-A hall sensor. Right now I had build oscilation part of my system (mainly for longer spark). I´m using for that NE555 and as "switch" reset pin. on the reset pin is bc549 and two rezistors, when voltage is applied it turns on my "oscilation part of cuircit" and its starts sparking. For my hall sensor, im using to convert its sinking output lm339, but founf out that it´s too slow for that. So my question is if u know about some ic or diagram to convert sinking output to digital voltage 5V logic. Also it would be nice if it could handle 200Hz sensing without missing one or two Hz, because im running high rpm and need strong spark. Thank u for your time
Hall sensor A3144 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rsfoto
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2024, 08:07:45 pm
content: Hi,I found some A3144 in my boxes and wanted to test the behaviour. I wired it according to the following diagramm.I read in the datasheet that the output can be as hi as the input voltage but my tests did not give me that value.I powered it with 5V and with no magnet present it gave me ~1V and with a magnet close to it it raised to ~2V but not near the ~5V I was feeding.Is the output dependent from how strong the magnet is?Thanks RainerPD I do not know if those are really A3144 because the marking on the front is 743ZF and on the bottom it says +ALEA. Are those FAKE? or what are they?

author: Shay
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2024, 09:16:22 pm
content: Quote from: rsfoto on November 27, 2024, 08:07:45 pmFrom the datasheet it seems like it is open collector. So you should either get ~0.2V to VCC.Make sure that you have a 10K resistor, and try a different hall.

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2024, 09:53:57 pm
content: That sensor, with open-collector output, is an active circuit (Schmitt trigger with hysteresis) driven from the Hall-effect element.There would be a minimum value of magnetic field at the sensor to guarantee logic-1 (high) output.Depending on the exact modelhttps://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/download/55095/ALLEGRO/A3144EU.htmlthe "operating" field valueBopis somewhere between 50 and 450 Gauss, and the "release" field valueBrpis somewhere between 10 and 430 Gauss, with typical hysteresis between values of 55 Gauss.Without a resistor on the output to +5V, the output will always be lowish.
Hall Sensor and LM2907-8 Raspberry Pi Tachometer Help  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: snizbatch
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 12, 2015, 04:17:38 am
content: Hey all,I'm new at the site, and relatively new at hobby electronics but I'm making my best effort here and need a bit of help. The project I'm attempting is to turn an LM2907-8 8-pin IC and a US5881 through-hole Hall Effect sensor into a variable voltage tachometer. I've accepted that counting pulses on a Raspberry Pi is impossible for a 10,000+ RPM R/C engine. I need the CPU time for other tasks on the Pi anyway. I've currently got the Hall sensor triggering a GPIO pin on the Pi, but when attempting a more complex circuit including the D/A converter I'm stumbling. I'm not trying to go for precision here. Just relative speed or zero, so the D/A converter makes sense to me. One issue I see with the LM2907 is that its minimum voltage is 6V and the Pi (and everything else I'm interfacing) run at 5 or 3.3V. How can I step this up with simplicity to utilize the functionality of the D/A converter? Some might suggest simply changing to using an IR based tach too but unfortunately this is going on a model aircraft where sunlight will constantly reflect on the sensor.If anyone knows of an i2c solution, that's what I'm using for my IMU and altimeter, and it could tie into the same bus, but I've been researching this off and on for a year and haven't found any viable solutions. I have a Pololu Mini Maestro 24 that can read analog voltages between 0 and 5v. I already have an airspeed sensor hooked up and streaming info. If only I could create a simple circuit to measure RPM too!!!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!! I'm on my 4th version of an etched, uv solder masked PCB to piggyback all this stuff onto a Raspberry Pi, but I don't want to make another one until I figure out how to incorporate RPM into my design. I'm more of a software guy--electronics wannabe. Digital electronics has my head spinning a bit!-James

author: eetech00
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2015, 08:32:27 pm
content: hiYou can use a boost regulator to step-up 5v to 9v and power the LM2907.eT

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2015, 10:28:06 pm
content: I don't see anything that keeps it from running at 5V.
Hall Sensor Biasing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jackW
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2021, 09:03:16 am
content: Hi Everyone,Does anyone on here have any experience with Hall effect sensors? I'm looking to make a handful of custom hall sensors for a motorsport application (for logging wheel speeds only - not abs or anything active).The back of the hub has a steel trigger ring with teeth on it the hall sensor can trigger off but just wondering about a few points on the design.It looks like something like an A110x Hall effect Ic sitting up up the front of an aluminium housing would be a simple enough thing to make. In order for the sensor to be able to detect the steel trigger ring (not magnets), it looks like I need to mount a biasing magnet behind the sensor. Does this sound correct or have I managed to go off on a complete tangent?Appreciate any help.Thanks,Jack W

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2021, 11:42:30 am
content: One way is back biassed hall sensors yes. Another is an inductive sensor that contains a oscillator driving a coil, so the presence of metal shifts its resonance or quality factor that the circuit detects and turns into a digital signal.But for what you are trying to do, is there any reason why you can't just use a off the shelf automotive ABS sensor? They do the exact same job of detecting metal teeth while at the same time being already in a rugged package with a cable, designed to survive water, dirt heat, vibration etc...

author: mck1117
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2021, 12:01:36 pm
content: Why not use an off the shelf Cherry/ZF hall sensor? They're already waterproof, super reliable, and dead simple to use.

author: voltsandjolts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2021, 12:51:02 pm
content: Just search ebay for an ABS sensor, modern ones are all hall sensors AFAIK.Or maybe the data you need is available on the canbus already?

author: jackW
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2021, 07:48:07 pm
content: Hi everyone,Thanks for the replies.For a little bit more background - the cars are completely bespoke aside from the basic body panels. So there is zero OE wiring in these cars. A further issue is the uprights/hubs are made from billet aluminium to a set of regulations and we cant modify them. For wheel speed sensors to work in this case we will have to machine the sensor body to work with the physical geometry we have already inherited. That is how we have got to this point.I will do some reading around the inductive sensor with a coil thanks.I have come across a few Hall sensors that look to have a back biasing magnet built into them but it's not 100% clear to me that they definitely do. Does anyone have any opinions on this?https://www.digikey.co.nz/product-detail/en/honeywell-sensing-and-productivity-solutions/VG481V1/480-VG481V1-ND/10712141For Example.Thanks again,Jack W
Hall sensor rising edge vs falling edge - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: aeccles
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 12, 2024, 05:25:00 pm
content: I'll start this as a very general question. I'm more that happy to provide additional details.Does anyone know (have a theory) why the rising edge of a hall sensor IC would have significantly more jitter than the falling edge when the motor is running at very, very constant speed?

author: mjkuwp
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 13, 2024, 05:28:07 pm
content: Are you measuring jitter with a logic analyzer? that isn't necessarily related to the theory. A theory is that the rising edge is created by a pullup resistor so the signal rises slowly. this creates a longer period of uncertainty in the logic levels. Conversely, the falling edge is created by a fet turning on and the signal drops quickly, transitioning through the levels more quickly. this is just an idea, I am not an expert.
Hall sensor to detect metallic objects. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: luiHS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2019, 12:26:01 am
content: Hello.I have a project in which I need to detect metallic objects (not magnetized). The distance from the sensor to the object will be about 5mm.I am thinking of several systems, one would be using magnetic sensors from the Chinese, like those in the attached photo, another would be to build my own magnetic sensor, something similar to a metal detector with the PCB printed coil.On the other hand, since I have to use hall sensors for other designs, in which I use neodymium magnets, it occurred to me if I could also use hall sensors to detect metallic objects. For example, by placing a small neodymium magnet between the hall sensor and the object to be detected, or the magnet near the sensor, so that by passing the metal object it alters the magnetic field of the magnet and is detected by the hall sensor.I would prefer to use hall sensors, because it is simpler and cheaper than use magnetic sensors. I have seen some hall sensors that deliver an analog output that varies the voltage depending on the intensity of the detected magnetic field, these could help me.Has anyone tried the use of hall sensors to detect non-magnetized metal objects?Regards.

author: Jannehrl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2019, 08:21:45 am
content: You can do that.For encoder measurements with magnetic sensors you can either use a magnetic tape or also a metal geartooth.For the measurement with geartooth TMR Sensors are used.In the picture below you can see how they are usualyy set up with a permanent magnet behind them.In your case you wouldnt want to measure the the height difference of the metal, but if there is any metal at all.Also the distance of 5mm is well achievable, i think even up to 1cm you could reliably detect your object.Be aware that you have to search for a TMR sensor, as GMR, AMR or others wont give you the same result.Also dont forget that if you are using a pure TMR Sensor they mostly dont have a magnet already placed behind them.Also Neodynium magnets are rarely used in magnetic encoding, im pretty shure because the field is too strong.Try to use a normal ferrite first.
Hallicrafters SX-25 Super Defiant Receiver  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Peithojr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2023, 10:05:32 pm
content: Hello!This is not my project, but was fascinated by these videos about theHallicrafters SX-25. I found it over the weekend, just wanted to share.Starts here and i think there are several videos.https://youtu.be/_ldhHmzeqx0https://youtu.be/1Y6z777lQcMhttps://youtu.be/SiKorZCIcDshttps://youtu.be/OFLJ6VfzFmohttps://youtu.be/JWlIdAcTbtE

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2023, 10:35:35 pm
content: Shouldn't this be in the Ham Radio section?

author: aileenbryan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 19, 2023, 09:11:18 am
content: The video about SX-25 is nice.
Halo type light pipe, for USB-C - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jc101
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2025, 08:49:53 am
content: Does anyone know if of a light pipe for use on USB-C sockets, to give a halo effect around the socket? Similar to this?I've tried the usual suppliers, but nothing comes back. My googlefu has also let me down.
Halogen Lamp conversion to LED - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: joeyjoejoe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2019, 05:46:07 pm
content: I have a lamp I love. I can't find anything that I would want to replace it with. It's a simple floor standing unit with a regular upward projecting portion (2x bulbs), and then it also has a flexible arm. I'm able to extend this over my desk and working area when doing electronics work, but then also just have it out of the way when it's just an office the other half of the time.Each have their own control knobs, and both are dimmable.The gooseneck one is a halogen light. The enclosure will fit a round COB LED perfectly. It's begging to be upgraded! (I purchased the equivalent LED sized bulb and it does not fit in the housing unfortunately.)The control unit inside is a Kaoyi KHT-134H. Specs are 120VAC in, 12Vac out (for the halogen I suspect). Inside, there's a CTB08-600C triac for the upper light. For what i assume is the lower one, there's two 13005ED (https://alltransistors.com/pdfview.php?doc=s13005ed.pdf&dire=_jdsemi) BJT's.The control board takes up most of the enclosure.Any thoughts on potential avenues to ditch the halogen bulb and get the COB LED in there?
ham radio - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: House91320
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2011, 07:06:38 am
content: can you do time sharing with a ham radio anta

author: Zad
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2011, 07:53:24 pm
content: Er. What? Depends what you mean by time sharing.

author: House91320
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2011, 06:10:18 am
content: well if i wanded to share one atena between me and my dad lick an old main frame computer

author: the_raptor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2011, 06:39:04 am
content: Probably not unless you want to put a lot of money into developing a solution that would cost more than another antenna.Antenna's aren't the expensive part of ham radio unless you are talking about huge towers.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2011, 03:29:04 am
content: i'm having a hard time understanding the vocab. your dad lick an old computer with antenna? do you mean antenna?

author: sonicj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2011, 01:07:56 pm
content: a duplexer or a manually operated rf switch box. both are quite common and can be had on the cheap.-sj

author: Zad
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2011, 04:34:05 pm
content: Yes, if you want to share an antenna between 2 receivers that receive on the same band that the antenna is tuned to. Be aware that each receiver will only see half the signal. If either radio is a transmitter, expect the receive section on the other radio to burn out quite quickly.
Hamamatsu L13201-0430M Mid-InfraRed LED - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: msimunic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2018, 07:33:08 am
content: Please,Can anyone tell me (at least approximately) price of Hamamatsu L13201-0430M mid-IR LED?Where to buy it in quantities <= 10, single piece preferably.

author: jeremy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2018, 08:10:05 am
content: Why not just ask Hamamatsu? Knowing some of their other photonics products, nobody will stock it and it will be made to order, so 1pc is probably not possible without the setup cost. It has a pretty big die as well, so that doesn't help. A made-to-order unusual laser diode (for which the mfg already has the designs and process in place) is usually something like US$5k for 1-2 pieces.
Hameg 1004 Schematic & Calibration - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AngraMelo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2018, 05:26:22 am
content: Hey guys,I recently acquired a Hameg 1004-3. It needed some adjustments but I could not find any manuals or calibration procedures online. So, after 4 weeks of begging to Rohde & Schwarz they finally gave me.Here you will find a detailed schematic, calibration process, board layout and anything you might need to fix or poke around the unit.Hope Im posting this to the correct sub forum.PS: the file is bigger than 2mb so I posted it on scribd, if you need it somewhere else, send me the link of the website and Ill upload it there.https://www.scribd.com/document/381437371/Hameg-1004-1004-3-Oscilloscope-Calibration-Manual-Board-layout

author: Gertjan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2018, 06:02:44 am
content: Hi AngraMelo,I have the same scope, so thank you very muchFor other people who want to download this manual: I found that you need to subscribe to Scribd before you can download. But they don't check the requested e-mailadress, so anything will do....regards, Gertjan.

author: AngraMelo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2018, 05:22:11 pm
content: Hello my friend,Im glad I could help! Do you have any other Hameg products?

author: Gertjan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2018, 06:20:38 pm
content: Hi AngraMelo,For over 25 years I used an Hameg HM204-2 scope, and was very happy with it.A few years ago the 20MHz bandwith of the HM204-2 became limiting, and I found the HM1004-3. (Also had to repair and (slightly) adjust mine).I found 2 very nice things about Hameg: It is obvious that the Hameg designers are also oscilloscope usersTheir scopes are easy to use, with just the right functions. And they are easy to repair. No special parts or modules like in other brands.Regards, Gertjan.

author: AngraMelo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2018, 11:10:58 pm
content: Im also very happy with mine, so happy that I found a guy selling another one for very cheap and I got it as well. Now I have 2 and have no idea what to do with both units! hahahahabest

author: RajGowda
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 30, 2020, 07:24:50 pm
content: Dear Sir,Please send the service manual if you have oneThanks
hameg hm208 calibration - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: blackjames
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2012, 05:32:11 am
content: hello,does anyone know where i can find the calibration guide for my hm208 analog oscilloscope?its about time i calibrate it.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2012, 09:12:51 pm
content: Hi!Very simple :-) Go tohttp://www.hameg.de, select English, go to "Service & Support", then Downloads, then Manuals and search for HM208. You'll be surprised.Cheersmadires
Hameg HM605 ENGLISH User/Service Manual - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: JCEEVBLOG
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 05, 2018, 06:40:41 pm
content: Hi AllAfter fruitless searching for a English service manual for the HM605 and still waiting for a response from Hameg themselves I took it upon myself to translate the German service manual and incorporate it into an English version.Now its not perfect and I am sure there could be people out there that could tweak it to make it better as regards the jargon and obviously translation issues.I have tried to attach the 2 files but as the files are 6 & 7MB I cannot post them but if you send me your email address i will happily send them to youRegards
Hamon Divider on pcb - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Tj138waterboy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2020, 07:06:45 pm
content: This seemed like a useful addition to the growing pile of volt-nut tinker tools I have collected and I haven't seen it offered in a version other than instructions on how to build or in expensive calibrators. Looking for critique on layout and electrical design rule specifically on guard ring. Any issues pointed out would be appreciated. I aimed to make this as user and budget friendly as possible by giving option to use multi-turn trimmers and or paralleling same value resistor with added low value resistor in series to trim. Im not great with making pcb footprints so I reused a dual throughhole/surface mount layout as well as dual option for trimpot package. Designed to be be housed on top of a hammond 1590 project enclosure.Will try to add better layout and placement notes later.Updated to include footprints for multiple package size voltage references and or input for your own.https://easyeda.com/tommyhearn1967/hamon-dividerPlease critique and comment on how to improve design.
Hand Grip Pulse sensors data processing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: XaviPacheco
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2018, 09:48:07 pm
content: Hello,I attach some pictures of olds hand grip pulse sensors that I took from an old treadmill. I don't know its working principle very well. The point is that I want to build a heart rate monitor using this sensors. How can it be made? I wanted to used a Raspberry Pi, so I think I would have to add some ADC modules since Pi doesn't have analog inputs. But before the ADC, I think I need some extra amplifier module to process the signal. First I would like to know the working principle of this hand grips. I mean, when I touch them (both of them? just one?) what kind of signal do I get? So then, how to process that signal. I was searching for some useful references on the web, but still can't find something easy to understand. I would appreciate your comments.
Hand Place WLCSP - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Bababooey
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2015, 09:26:55 pm
content: Hi!I've been thinking about buying a manual pick and place machine to hand place a 0.5mm pitch, 0.3mm ball, 4.7x4.8mm, 79-ball WLCSP chip. Is there anyone here who has hand-placed a chip like that before? Thoughts? My colleagues and I can't seem to agree if it would be possible.Thanks.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 30, 2015, 09:31:33 pm
content: Done that, nothing extraordinary. Though better to use a microscope to do this.
Hand solder a QFN-16? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jwhitmore
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2016, 03:02:51 pm
content: There's a happy medium, or trade off, somewhere between big ugly DC/DC IC and a small dinky one where you can hand solder the piece. I want some head room so want a possible 3 Amps out of the device. I have been looking at the TPS62133 which looks not bad. Up to 3A output and certainly not big and ugly but I'm sure it's probably gone too far the other way and is far too small to hand solder. It has an earth pad under the IC as well so I had thought maybe I could put paste down and then hot air the part into place.I'm now looking at the 3mm x 3mm footprint on paper and thinking is that doable? Anybody got any opinion about that?Anybody suggest a better part number for a suitable 5v DC/DC Converter, Input voltage would be about 15V (Automotive)

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2016, 03:13:12 pm
content: That thing's huge. No fuss at all.

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2016, 03:21:14 pm
content: QFNs are easy. For non-exposed pad packages you can hand solder fine with a microscope and a really pointed soldering iron tip.For exposed pads, like the buck you're looking at, you'll need to use hot air. Just flux and tin the pads, flux the component, place, and hit it with some hot air until you see it drop. Just be sure that the heat of the air gun is within the thermal tolerances on the datasheet.Once it drops, you'll just need to inspect and touch up contacts as needed. Real quick and easy.

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2016, 03:43:32 pm
content: Look on youtube "solder qfn package"If you are aging, like me, then you will need some magnification.... strong glasses, craft magnifier or even better a widefield 10x microscopeDefinitely do-able

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2016, 03:58:26 pm
content: Quote from: NivagSwerdna on September 07, 2016, 03:43:32 pmDefinitely. A USB microscope is typically a good option. I've never had good luck with those magnifing glasses on arms.One caveat to digital microscopes is latency. The adafruit one below is the cheapest one I've found that didn't have unusable latency.https://www.adafruit.com/products/1061For a couple hundred more (and well worth it)https://www.amazon.com/AmScope-SE400-Z-Professional-Microscope-Magnification/dp/B005C75IVM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473263808&sr=8-3&keywords=amscopehttps://www.amazon.com/AmScope-SM-3BX-80S-Professional-Microscope-Magnification/dp/B004U4ADZ4/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1473263853&sr=8-16&keywords=amscopeThe second Amscope changed my life. Best money I ever spent.

author: jwhitmore
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2016, 04:01:12 pm
content: Thank you all so much. Think I might give it a blast and learn something if nothing else ;-)
Hand solder LGA16? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: RogerThat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2019, 08:39:56 pm
content: Hi,So, I have a board which uses a LIS344 accelerometer. This is a LGA16 package and I'm having some trouble to reliably solder this.I have tried two different foot print. One, where the solder pads extend outside the package to be able to solder using the normal soldering iron. Then, a second where I made the footprint exactly as the pads (I made a small mistake, ST recommends a footprint which is +0.1mm x and y to the pads).The last footprint seams to solder nicely, the component re-align it self when the solder starts flowing(using hot-air on the opposite side of the board). But, the connections are not good, I usually end up with just one output working while the others seams to be froozen.Anyone have any suggestions?

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2019, 09:07:54 pm
content: Pre-tin the IC pads, it helps a lot (not too much solder though!)

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2019, 09:18:05 pm
content: What exact preparation are you doing for reflow? Are you using paste or pretinning, using flux at all? Are you using too much solder or not enough? To add what SiliconWizard said tin both clean and then use flux.

author: RogerThat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2019, 09:25:18 pm
content: I've pre-tinned and added flux ( a combination of flux and tin which I know works very well together). I've tried different amount of tin also, from flat to small 'hill'. Both on the component and pad. I usually don't clean between the tinning and adding new flux, can this make a difference?

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2019, 10:16:22 pm
content: Have you tried with paste? Pretinned and then just a small dab of solder paste will give you a bit of extra material, but it will be physically sticking up and malleable, so it could aid with reflow.That said, I'd think pretinned on the IC itself and ample flux would do a pretty good job - is there a substantial connection to the ground plane, perhaps? If the board underneath isn't reaching soldering temperature because it's wicking away too much heat or has too much thermal mass, when the solder on the IC pads melts, it may just not want to stick to the cooler pads. If this is the case, preheating the board could help.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2019, 10:22:12 pm
content: Cleaning removes flux and rubbish like displaced oxides and contaminants. Cleaning your solder wire and your tip well can also improve joint quality and wetting, everything counts especially while troubleshooting.Don't use too much flux either and read this, which is the next thing are you allowing adequate dwell time. Consider also that it might not be a soldering issue.https://www.all-spec.com/no-clean-flux-activation
Hand soldering of BGA chips - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: djsb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2010, 12:44:00 pm
content: Has anyone had any experience of hand soldering BGA chips using hot air? There are a few video's on the sparkfun website just wondering if anyone has tried this for themselves. Thanks.David.

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2010, 03:08:44 pm
content: I have not, but SchmartBoard has an adapter that's intriguing:https://www.youtube.com/nealgb#p/u/6/D3PTpaB4kroScott

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2010, 11:22:13 pm
content: There's a way to do it with a hot plate and heat gun. Apply a special flux to the board, put the BGAs on, use the hot plate to get the board up to a preheat temperature, and the heat gun does the actual soldering. I have not actually done that with BGA, but I have done that with TSOP. BGA is definitely harder to get right and very difficult to check.I have read stories about fixing video cards with bad solder connections using a propane torch. Surprisingly, it sometimes does work.

author: Time
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2010, 11:54:11 pm
content: I have used a heat gun to solder BGA and also a blow torch.I like adding the hot plate idea.

author: DJPhil
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2010, 12:46:59 am
content: Quote from: Time on August 12, 2010, 11:54:11 pmThat's got to feel awesome. I'd feel ten feet tall for a day if I got that to work properly.The closest I've ever been to that awesome was seating a tire on a rim with lighter fluid, then I found out it was a well known practice.

author: abbtech
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2010, 10:23:27 pm
content: No idea how to do this. I would think a hot plate would be your best bet though.Either way I would love to see the results. Take some pics along the way so we can see how it works!
Handheld Game Case - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: joeedh
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 16, 2019, 07:32:20 am
content: In the midst of a family emergency (my grandfather just died) I found myself spending several days on the floor of my uncle's study. I took a look at the toys I'd brought with me from home: a Cypress PSOC, and little LCD screen with an SD card reader, one of those 3D plastic extruder pens with filament and a box of Arduino parts that included a mini analog joystick.I thought to myself, I'll make a little handheld NES with these parts! It turned out the LCD was bad, but I had great fun making a plastic case with only a filament extruder pen. I found the process fascinating.I started by making the top. I spent lots of time getting the curved surface of the top right. After that, I (temporarily) glued the LCD, PSOC board and joystick to the top, after which I wrapped the edges in blue masking tape. I drew a ring around the top's edge (onto the blue tape) with my extruder pen. This became the mating edge of the bottom side of the case. Next I started making the bottom ribs. To do this, I used the extruder pen to basically drape molten strings of plastic across the electronics, which I molded by hand as they cooled (the pictures I've attached don't have the little PSOC controller board stick in it; it went under the tall, narrow ribs at the top. I took it out after forming those first few ribs to avoid damaging it).Anyway, I've attached some pictures I took along the way. Forgive the terrible photography. I was surprised at how well it turned out; normally I just use the extruder pen for sculptures (for this sort of prototyping work I have a 3D printer at home). I'm a bit bummed my little LCD screen is bad, but I have more back home so I'll just have to wait until I get back.
Handheld skydiving altimeter design - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: uer166
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2017, 06:59:46 am
content: Just showing off a project that's been ongoing for 2 yearsThe firmware repo:https://bitbucket.org/i2barano/opensky_fwThe hardware repo:https://bitbucket.org/i2barano/opensky_hwWriteup:https://sites.google.com/site/ivanbaranov/openskyaltimeterI'd like to have knowledgeable people take a look at the hardware and/or code to see if anything's broken or can be improved.Some pics:
Handy protoboard - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: nathanpc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 06:57:39 pm
content: I've always hated most of the "breadboard-style" protoboards that are available, so I decided to design my own little protoboard. Since I work a lot with analog circuits I needed at least 4 power rails in a layout that would make it super simple to have split supplies. Another thing that I wanted was some rows to put connectors and wires that would go to panel mount components, etc. And that's basically everything I put into this very simple, yet extremely useful protoboard.Since some people may have the same needs as I do, I decided to put it up on Tindie if anyone wants one too. I'm selling them in packs of 3 and since I don't think a lot of people will want it, I only have 3 packs of 3 available at the time, but if sell those packs I'm totally going to order a lot more and keep a little stock.Some people will say $10 is a bit expensive, but that's just a symbolic price, since I pay ~$50 for a pack of 10 because of the horrible import taxes here in Brazil (let's not even talk about shipping...).Here's the link to the Tindie page:https://www.tindie.com/products/nathanpc/3-pcs-premium-protoboards/
Hantek 135V6S vs OWON SP3103 which one to buy? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: drakejest
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2022, 01:25:30 pm
content: Im would like to buy a bench power supply and looking for the best one that is relatively cheap. So I have narrowed down it to two choicesTheHantek 135V6Sor theOwon SP3103Although hantek is somewhat of a decent brand i could not find a single video review about their product, which leads me to lean with the owon on top of it having a bit more power and better noise. The predecessor to this model SP6102 was reviewed and performed horribly. Hantek some plus side too though, it has a usb port capable of power delivery. and it uses the standard banana jack plugs where the power and ground are beside each otherOwon has a 60V version also ? should i get that instead? Is it worth with the slightly worse noise performance?

author: Markus2801A
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2022, 02:42:52 pm
content: Hi,I have the OWON P4305 at home, an it does perform very well!It has a toroid transformer, most of the smaller PWSU don't have those quality transformers, so this was one big pros of the unit.https://eleshop.eu/owon-p4305-programmable-lab-supply.htmlBut I think both of the units you suggested above will perform very good.Kind regards!Markus

author: drakejest
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2022, 06:48:41 pm
content: I think you have the really good one though the linear version, Its 40$ more expensive, I wonder if linear bench are better than switchmode ones the SP3103 does not have a toroid based on the teardown here

author: Markus2801A
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2022, 04:21:39 pm
content: The linear models are heavier due to the use of a "real" transformer and should be more stable regarding noise floor of the output voltage.The switched mode power supply does have a little more "ripple" as seen on the review. But I think this will not bother you :-)

author: mlord
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 12, 2025, 11:31:05 am
content: (replying here to keep scant info about Owon SP series in one place)I have a Owon SP3103 here. It is a switching PSU inside, using an Owon SPE3103 main PCB, but with a fancier front panel. That fancy front panel appears to radiate a ton of noise though, so the power output from this PSU isn't very clean.I have an el-cheapo Jesverty SPS-3010V here as well, and it produces very clean output, much better than the Owon. Now the odd thing is, I can put the Jesverty on the scope here, and it looks great. Then, just turn the mains power on for the Owon (no leads, with output OFF), and suddenly the Jesverty gets very noisy. Put them both on the scope, and the noise is identical, so it's all coming from that Owon.Neither PSU shows any significant overshoot. The Owon does ramp up and down very quickly compared to the Jesverty though -- there must be quite a bit more output capacitance on the Jesverty.I hope later to dismantle the Owon and see if the noise can be muted somewhere. It could mostly be coming from the backlight PSU for the fancy display.