hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Up a CPLD creek without a prochip designer? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2025, 08:01:57 pm
content: So a couple of years ago I developed a small snippet of Verilog and put it into a ATF1504ASIt's a bit of a distant memory but I found my code and ProChip Designer on my PC so that's probably how I did it in the end.I would now like to do this again so tried to liven up the project and get..."Unable to locate a valid Precision Atmel CPLD RTL OEM licence"Now I think I may have had a trial licence which has since expired and looking at the website...https://www.microchip.com/prochiplicensing/#/"License requests for Prochip which includes Precision Synthesis tool are on Hold pending a renewal of the OEM agreement. Please email pld@microchip.com for status."Doesn't sound great!Any suggestions? An old copy of Quartus and POF2JED? WinCUPL?PSI like verilog since I can test at eda playground.

author: BrianHG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2025, 08:16:19 pm
content: 9.1:https://archive.org/details/91sp-2-quartus-free13.1:https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/software-kit/666221/intel-quartus-ii-web-edition-design-software-version-13-1-for-windows.html

author: PCB.Wiz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2025, 08:52:43 pm
content: Quote from: NivagSwerdna on March 24, 2025, 08:01:57 pmWinCUPL should do fine for a 1504.Do you have a copy of the original design fitter .FIT report file?That has pin allocates and logic equations in CUPL compatible equations.It's all flattened/expanded, but should compile with minimal effort.I see Microchip have this on their store - theBEis their newer 3v3 CMOS low power CPLDATF1504BE-7AU100 IN PRODUCTION Available To Order Order now, estimated to ship on 24-Jul-2025
Up Down Buck converter recommendations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: imk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2019, 08:26:25 am
content: Hello,So i have a few projects on the go the require an up/down buck converter, one for example is a 12 volt power source for a telescope.Currently i power the scope from a 3S lipo or a 12v lead acid, problem is the voltage range is quite wide depending on battery state of charge.i shopped about a found a small up/down DC-DC buck/boost module AT30 off eb that seems to work fairly well for ~12v input 12v output.Although on varying loads the V out regulations seems poor varying as much as 0.8 V on varying load of 0A to 0.2AI would also like to use this AT30 or similar to drive logic and MC's 3.3/5v, but I find on power off from a 12v input the the output spikes so high it's going to kill logic..So i googled about and found what seems like a much better up/down buck board the Dps3806 by MingHe but found a review that says it also has big over shoot issue on power down.Any recommendations please for a up/down buck board that i can use for a wide range of project eg 3v to 30v output from a most likely 12v battery source.Many thanks imk
Up Down - Output Shifter?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ELB0DEEP
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 03:03:30 am
content: Hi Guys,TerminologyN/C (Normally Closed)N/O (Normally Closed)OFF = OPEN ((No Current passes)ON = CLOSED (Passes Current)I want to make a circuit with two contact inputs, lets call one UP and the other one Down. The circuit has 5 ON/OFF outputs.When you turn the circuit ON. Output 3 is N/C (Normally Closed) You push the UP contact and output 3 goes OFF and output 4 turns ON. You push UP contact again and output 4 goes OFF, output 5 goes ON.You push the Down contact and now the output 5 goes OFF and output 4 goes ON.As you can see I am shifting the ON state from one output to another by the up down switches.I would like to do this with discrete components perhaps a shift register or a transistor latching circuit.Can someone please tell me what terminology to look for so I can fins some sample circuits or at least what to look for online. Perhaps there is already and IC that does this function.Thanks in advance!Mark

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 02:57:20 pm
content: This can be done with a bi-directional shift register but getting the first output set to '1' is an issue. What feeds the first stage?So, I would use an up-down binary or BCD counter (74LS193?) followed by a binary or BCD decoder (74LS138?)http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn74ls193.pdfhttp://ecee.colorado.edu/~mcclurel/sn74ls138rev5.pdfBoth inputs need to be debounced. I would use a 74LS00 as two ring-tailed NAND gates and make sure my switches were SPDT with pull-up resistors (1k?)http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn74ls00.pdfhttp://www.ee.nmt.edu/~elosery/fall_2008/ee231L/lab6.pdfSee figure 2You may need to add some logic around the counter to get it to quit counting when it reaches max and min. That's the reason that most people would build this with a microcontroller. A simple 16 pin PIC would be adequate, an Arduino would be overkill but easiest to program.When the least significant output is on, you disable the DOWN button input and when the most significant output is on, you disable the UP button input. Just add more logic.
uP9616PDC8  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: soubitos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2018, 02:51:30 pm
content: I used this chip uP9616PDC8 in one of my projects for a customer recently.I am still waiting for pcbs+parts to make the prototypes but i want to know if anybody has any idea what goes to the receiving end of them! I want to power several devices with such a charger but have no idea what IC's are there for this job! and the more i search the more similar chips i find but none for the receiving end... perhaps i search with the wrong terminology, i could use some help please!!!https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/uP9616PDC8_C92690.pdf
UPC code sources, official vs reseller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rounin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2019, 10:03:40 pm
content: So I'm going to list a few electronic widgets on Amazon. They want a UPC, seems reasonable.If I get a official block from gs1us.org, there is a 50$ per year fee for the lowest tier which is annoying, and from some random websearches it seems like they make it hard to cancel, send threatening letters, etc. The advantage seems to be it is easier to make fraud claims against clones on amazon, since they will sometimes defer to the GS1 registry for trademark infringement claims / UPC code reuse claims.But there are a number of resellers legally selling codes gained before 2002, like speedybarcodes.com. Downside is Amazon will not enforce cloned product codes since they can't verify the owner. This seems reasonable for a first foray, start with some cheap codes to test the market, move to official codes if there is a dispute & make new product pages.Anyone have any experience getting a small block of UPC codes? Preferred resellers? I'd like to avoid an annual fee, but am expecting this will cost me something. I just don't want to shoot myself in the foot either way.

author: djacobow
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2019, 03:25:21 am
content: I've bought some from SnapUPC and have used them to list four products on Amazon, so far without issue.As you suggest, if I have to, I'll reboot with direct purchased codes. But the whole process is just another pointless hoop to jump through. Amazon could offer unique codes for new products itself.

author: rounin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2019, 02:27:31 am
content: Thanks, good to hear it worked for you!
Updated Nixie display, now more modular - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: intabits
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2018, 12:31:08 pm
content: Here is my updated modular Nixie tube display.I built my version of Dave's project just over a year ago , using homemade PCBs, but it didn't work too well.Thread for that:-https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/my-implementation-of-the-nixie-tube-display-project/msg1225646/#msg1225646So I redesigned it shortly after, using a more modular approach, and intending to use properly made PCB's.I finally got the PCBs made a few months ago, but I've only recently got around to building it all up, so here it is.These are the modulesA video of the project:-https://youtu.be/rQEzPThgjuUThe Arduino sketch for this project is given in the comments section of the video.

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2018, 02:40:11 pm
content: I like the idea of plugable tubes. its been done many times before, but tubes will wear out and if they are not in sockets, its a pita to change them out. I once converted a clock to a 6 digit counter (for a project) and found I had serious cathode poisoning; to see digits 6-9 on the displays that were worn out, I could try to burn them back; or just replace them. sockets would have made that easier. you could also 'rotate' your nixies (lol) if you wanted to distribute the wear better, over the years.I would personally have more gap between trace and groundplane. I like lots of void and for higher voltage, I like to have extra spacing. but that's just my personal pref. I think most pcb designers go for too little clearance; not sure why this is a trend but for HV, I would even avoid the GP entirely since its not at all necessary (no RF or anything here).

author: intabits
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2018, 01:26:13 am
content: That was the idea of the daughter boards, to make the nixies plugable. It also greatly simplifies the layout and trace routing, and neatly incorporates the neons.The modules are probably cheaper than tube sockets, and they can be as "disposable" as the nixies themselves.The tubes can still be rotated for wear leveling.But in reality, using a solder sucker it was very easy to remove the tubes from my earlier PCBs. And on these new PCBs, the pins are a tight fit, so the plated through holes make good contact with them. I only needed to solder 2 pins on each, mostly for mechanical stability. They would be very easy to desolder.I did make the ground plane gaps larger than the default, because of the HV, and with the soldermask. there should be no problem.Also the signal frequency is up at around 200KHz - not quite RF, but highish.
Updated Old NXP NFC links - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jpyeron
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2023, 02:10:47 pm
content: from:https://web.archive.org/web/20150419022627/http://www.nxp.com/products/related/customer-training.htmlI will update as I find more...On-Demand webinarsAntenna design: "Which antenna for what purpose?" What is the best antenna size & form? Major design parameters, layout & design tipsRecorded webinarDownload presentationAntenna design: "Antenna matching" What does matching mean? What are the required simulation & measurement tools?Recorded webinarDownload presentationAntenna design: "Metal environment" How does metal environment influence the antenna? How to use ferrite.Recorded webinarDownload presentationAntenna design: "Optimization & debugging" How can I optimize the performance? Relevant test signals & registers.Recorded webinarDownload presentationAntenna design: "Test & qualification" Which test are required? What are the required test tools?Recorded webinarDownload presentationAntenna design: "EMC related design" What is the impact of EMC? What are the EMC critical parts of teh design? Basic rules to improve EMC behavior.Recorded webinarDownload presentationNFC Standards Introduction to NFC, standards & specifications. NFC controller, SE and NFC ecosystem related standardsRecorded webinarDownload presentationNXP development boards for NFC readers What is a demo board? Overview on NXP demo boards and how to order them.Recorded webinarDownload presentationNFC Essentials Basics of NFC, operation modes and communication protocol.Recorded webinarDownload presentationReader design introduction Basics of a NFC reader system design, key components and key decisions criteria for selecting the right NXP NFC reader IC.Recorded webinarDownload presentationSW Libraries for NFC readers NXP reader library; library versions; reader library SW stack; use cases and development environment.Recorded webinarDownload presentationNFC Reader Design: How to build your own reader Introduction to RFID and NFC, Contactless reader design initial considerations, NFC controller-related standards and specifications, contactless reader architecture, portfolio overviewRecorded webinarDownload presentationNFC Reader Design: Antenna Design Considerations NFC antenna working principles, NFC reader antenna matching, environmental influences, NFC reader antenna testingRecorded webinarOR THIS ONEDownload presentation
updated rheslip's PyDSA for DS1000Z series... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: KK1L
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2021, 01:48:01 am
content: Folks,Not sure this will be useful to folks. I wanted a more functional FFT for my DS1104Z-Plus and try my hand and modifying some Python code. I started with the Kerr Smith update of rhelip's PyDSA. I have found the upgrade useful. I have done some reasonable testing, but you might (probably?) will find bugs.https://github.com/KK1L/PyDSAUpdated version using Python 3.9 and latest PyVisa and NumPyThe code is updated with more function and robust interaction with the scope.To use you should update to latest pyvisa (py -m pip install pyvisa)Install latest numpy in same mannerDownload PyDSA from the repo and off you go!*Changelog Rossi, KK1L January & July 2021Python 3.9 update...syntax, call format changes, functionsMore robust scope communicationOn screen progress feedbackWarning if scope is not triggered (used to crash)Warning if input signal is clipping at scopeCan read from channel 1 or channel 2Peak detect information in header and marker on active waveformAdded autoscaling...sets peak to nearest the top possible and dBm/div to fitScaling change and offset works for all waves on the screenCan store up to 7 waveforms on the screenMost actions can be done while acquiringAdded clear function which removes all waves and resets averaging/max-holdScale changed to dBm and is accurate after autocalibration*Use a sine wave of known magnitude and adjust the calibration factor for the right readingautocal will match the peak to the dBm you enter73 es God Bless de KK1L, Ron <><

author: KK1L
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2021, 04:29:22 pm
content: Added a windows executable in the "dist" directory of the repository73 es God Bless de KK1L, Ron <><

author: KK1L
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2021, 02:54:41 pm
content: Found and fixed a bug with the display when changing the start or stop frequency.
Updating my Milliohmeter  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: namster
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2019, 12:20:13 pm
content: for my final years project , i realised a prototype of milliohmeter , the resulte haven't been very concluante , I want to quote the differnetes problèmes to fix .for thermal emf compensation i use a H bridge to inverse the current but when measuring using a Tti 1604 it wasn't symetrical i think that the idss of Mosfet cause leakage currentafter amplification using a INA118 i use a absolute value circuit formed of U11 U10 (OP07 and INA105 ) , wasn't linearfor acquisition i realised a multislope ADC but the resolution was lower than 12bits , i have to replace this one in future version of the instrumentthere is some pictures inside the instruments ,https://imgur.com/a/UYK7Ut1
updating my work station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: odell
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2012, 05:31:48 am
content: HiI'm updating my work station. What tool should I get and what material should I stock up on.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2012, 06:32:38 am
content: Quote from: odell on January 04, 2012, 05:31:48 amIce maker.QuoteWhiskey.I mean, what kind of question is that? The whole purpose of tools is to make tasks easy or possible that are difficult or impossible without. So what tasks are you finding difficult or impossible to do right now? There's your answer. On the other hand, if you can do everything you try to accomplish with ease, then you don't need any moretoystools.

author: killaken2000
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 05, 2012, 11:12:31 pm
content: I would have to ask what type of work you are doing and also what tools do you have already.I recently bought a Weidmuller Stripax wire stripper and cutter hand tool. I was ruining my fingers and nail using my old t-type wire stripper. It's expensive but does everything it does extremely well. Here is the link.http://www.newark.com/weidmuller/stripax-0-8-6mm/wire-stripper-0-8-6mm/dp/24M7939?in_merch=Popular%20Stripping%20ToolsThis is the newest version. There are other companies selling similar products but I think they are older models.

author: PStevenson
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2012, 11:30:26 pm
content: assuming that because this is an electronics forum, your workstation is centred around electronics.Dave did a good video on the subjecthttp://www.eevblog.com/2011/04/30/eevblog-168-how-to-set-up-an-electronics-lab/I would like to add that I just got a new solder station by ATTEN (atten 938D) which was very cheap and although I only got it a week ago it has been a major improvement over the piece of shit I had

author: The_Penguin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2012, 12:47:50 am
content: +1 for ice maker and whiskey!Without knowing what you have now, and what kind of work you do, it's hard to say.I do mainly repair work, so for me what's important is good soldering gear (I have an 80's Weller WCTP, and a Hakko 936) and a decent DMM or 2 (Fluke 77 and 87-V) an esr meter, and semiconductor tester. A good variable power supply with current limiting is handy too.Some decent cutters, locking hemostats, dental picks, precision screwdrivers (good quality don't scrimp on those)A good stock of resistors, fuses, and low-ESR caps.I'm re-doing my work area as well. The shelf with my scope and lab supply is too high above my desk, so plan to move it.Also almost 1/4 of my work area is a briefcase-style toolkit, and I use about 5 tools out of it.So hope to have some sort of holder hanging screwdrivers, cutters and other tools. That'll move my soldering stations back to the back of the desk and give me room to actually work.I've added a Fluke 87-V and a hot-air rework station this month. Planning a possible DSO, but haven't pulled the trigger on that one yet.
up/down counter advice? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Llamarama
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 21, 2018, 12:55:42 am
content: Hello everyone,I'm playing around with some ICL7135 ADCs and have decided to make a Nixie tube multimeter. I'm having a bit of trouble sourcing ganged push button switches for the range select, so i decided to make it auto ranging using the built in Over/Under range outputs from the chip, but I'd also like to have a manual range up and range down set of switches too.I've had a look at some up/down counters but almost all have a single clock line and then an up/down selector, but I need in essence separate increment decrement clock inputs. I know the 74xx192 is basically exactly what I want, but I would like to see if these is a cheaper alternative (i.e. made out of the piles of 4000 series stuff I have in my workshop/chaos area!)Thanks in advance, Mike

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2018, 07:38:10 pm
content: A small mircocontroller would be the first thing I'd go to in this situation.

author: donmr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2018, 08:42:35 pm
content: You could do this with a few gates of TTL/CMOS logic (be careful to check how the over/under signal is related to the clock). But it would also be a fine uP or CPLD project.

author: Wimberleytech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2018, 08:51:01 pm
content: CD4029??

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2018, 12:35:17 am
content: If you have two clocks you would need to sync them viasampling to insure no contention.A PSOC4 and either using schematic capture and/or verilog couldhandle this..http://www.cypress.com/documentation/application-notes/an82250-psoc-3-psoc-4-and-psoc-5lp-implementing-programmable-logichttp://www.cypress.com/training/psoc-video-tutorial-series-how-create-custom-componentsRegards, Dana.
Upgrade of a SunFire V440  Dual 1064MHz Workstation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: JacquesBBB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 02:38:59 pm
content: Sun MicrosystemsSunFireV440 Server Dual 1064MHz, 4GB 263-1633-04No legend

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 03:04:56 pm
content: That upgrade is hot stuff! Really smokin'.Nice work.

author: Len
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 03:18:05 pm
content: I think you need to upgrade the CPU heat sink. It seems to be running a little hot.

author: AF6LJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 03:34:36 pm
content: Nice Case Mod.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 04:35:32 pm
content: Supermarket trolley works just as well, and the mini trolleys give you a built in grid as well.Plastic ones not so good though.

author: Len
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 05:00:13 pm
content: What version of sausage are you running? Is that merguez?

author: Balaur
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 05:02:15 pm
content: I've shown the pictures to a colleague who worked for Sun in the 2000's. He shed manly tears and started babbling longingly about days of yore and times of greatness.I still have fond memories about SunPC boards that I used to have a real PC inside my Solaris workstation.Sun were also real nice when you had to go to tradeshows and demo your EDA tools on workstations and heavy 21 inch CRTs rented on site and retrieved from the huge Sun storage areas.

author: kfitch42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 05:20:27 pm
content: That brings a tear to my eye. Especially because I was recently told that I will have to port some software over to SPARC Solaris soon. Unfortunately we tried to just compile it, which worked, but it wouldn't runI have no idea how old the SPARC box is that I was given to do the port on, but it runs like molasses going uphill in January. Oh, well, just needed to vent.

author: JacquesBBB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 05:33:51 pm
content: Quote from: Len on October 22, 2015, 05:00:13 pmTwo versions of sausages are running in parallel on theSunFireIn the picture I have several threads of merguezand others of porc sausages with herbs, both from the local gourmet charcutier.

author: AF6LJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 05:48:20 pm
content: Quote from: JacquesBBB on October 22, 2015, 05:33:51 pmHmmmmI am not so sure........I think they need to be beta tested.

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 10:22:31 pm
content: Do you light it with an ultra sparc?

author: AF6LJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 11:20:47 pm
content: Quote from: TheSteve on October 22, 2015, 10:22:31 pmBest comeback of the Week.

author: crispy_tofu
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2015, 12:26:57 am
content: Mmm... beautiful!
Upgrade of a Tried and True Bench AC Mains Overload Monitor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: enut11
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2022, 06:04:18 am
content: When powering suspect electrical equipment for the first time, or during project development, it is sometimes handy to limit the maximum incoming AC line current.A variac is great for this task but a simpler and much older design is to use a high wattage incandescent light bulb in series with the AC line. The bulb acts as both a limiter and visual indicator of excessive current or a potential short circuit.I modified my bench AC limiter by adding a power meter. The meter is powered by mains voltage and usually works down to about 60Vac but is easily modified to read down to zero volts. I also included a globe bypass switch for direct power measurements.enut11

author: Ed.Kloonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2022, 06:18:10 am
content: Nice.I love the light cover.Well marked and with bypass switch.

author: enut11
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2022, 06:48:34 am
content: Quote from: Ed.Kloonk on September 23, 2022, 06:18:10 amThanks @Ed.Kloonk. Yes, the upside-down jar was a further mod to prevent accidental globe breakage.
Upgrading a fixed-voltage EuroCom PS-150F to variable-voltage output - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Shark
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 09:03:28 pm
content: Hi guys!I have a fixed-voltage EuroCom PS-150F power supply (220VAC to 13.8VDC @ 12A constant, 15A max).For what I saw, the transformer has a single output tap. I measured the voltage after rectifier is around 23V and this is good enough for my purposes.I would like to upgrade it to a variable-voltage output (1V to 20V) and I'm in doubt between either adapting the existing circuit (fixed 13.8V) or scapping it and making my own from scratch.Any experiences or advice you could share? Thanks!
Upgrading new firmware by retaining existing data in PDS - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Swati Chikmath
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 11, 2022, 03:06:27 am
content: Hello Everyone,I am trying to upgrade the new firmware by retaining existing data in PDS, Atmel Bitcloud, ATSAMR21G18A Microcontroller.I have shifted PDS at the bottom of flash (last 32KB is the PDS section in 256KB flash).As a first step I am flashing the complete code to flash with PDS data, then with new firmware I have truncated file to 224KB (256-32) excluding PDS then flashing the code. So that new firmware take data (like network configuration, Application Configuration, Commissioning information)from existing PDS and connects to same network and work in normal way.But this way is not working as expected, the control of code is going to APL_taskHandler.Please suggests how to proceed further any suggestions would be more helpful.Thanks In advance

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2022, 03:23:29 am
content: The code always goes into APL_TaskHandler(). This is the main entry point for the application. Does it actually lose commissioning data? And if so, PDS is open source, you can debug it and check why it does not like the structure you have there.

author: Swati Chikmath
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 11, 2022, 07:19:02 am
content: Sorry the control is not going to APL_TaskHandler()PDS section is at the bottom, new firmware is truncated so that old firmware PDS section is not modified. Read back of PDS section from flash of old and new firmware is same. So data in PDS section is not lost.New firmware has an extra debug_print line and because of that every function in text section is shifted by 8 bytes, but this shifting is not overlapping with PDS and D_nv section which starts from 0X38000.But is see D_nv section data is been modified.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2022, 07:25:53 am
content: I have no idea what is going on. You need to debug it and see what is going on.Also, when checking updates, updating to the same exact firmware is a good idea.
Upgrading old 100V PSU for 230V - Picking TVS and Capacitor voltages - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NRoach44
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2024, 01:31:21 pm
content: Hi all!Aaaages ago I asked about advice on a scope to use with SMPS work, and then I didn't end up touching them at all. Apparently fate has decided to correct thatI have a 100V power supply from a launch Japanese PS2. It has a "half-bridge" style layout where the first DC stage has two caps in series. They are 680uF 150V models. There is a TVS diode (Z2100U) parallel to each capacitor.Someone has demonstrated it working with 230V, byonly removing the TVS diodes. Upon asking why they didn't replace the caps they got defensive and deleted their posts. Never mind these are 24 year old caps...I decided to do it properly, and I've hit a bit of a wall. The old TVS diodes are 100V Breakdown and 144V Clamping rated. I figure I should match the "Vbr > Vin max" and "Vcap > Vcl" ""rule"" that seems to be used.If we use Vin max = 178V (230V+10%) / 2, we can pick a diode with Vbr of about 180V, but Vcl ends up being more than 250V on the diodes we can find on Digikey et al.The issue is, capacitors with a rating more than 250V are too big.Open to part suggestions, but my main question is what's worse: Vbr being "slightly" within the input voltage range, or the cap's rating being just under Vcl? Iguessthe latter is less likely to happen, but this is where I don't have any idea.PS: I've checked and found the X-(or Y-?) class caps are 125VAC rated and will replace them. Also checked the other component ratings - they should be OK.
upgrading PI controller into a current driver for a YIG - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: john23
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2025, 09:50:36 pm
content: There is a PI controller with certain AC behavior. I need to use this PI controller in order to drive a coil (current controlled oscillator) of 1.5 µH inductance. For DC behavior at 10 mV input I need 50 mA current on the coil at most. PI controller has proportional and integrator property.How can I convert this behavior into a driver circuit?

author: john23
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2025, 09:29:13 am
content: UPDATE:I have tried to drive the inductor threw NPN.How do i connect it to the Integrator?Thanks.
Upgrading thermal fuse (128 to 150) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: GoatZero
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 06:52:49 am
content: I have an electric heater, using it at its max temp, the thermal fuse blows (rated at 128c), so i replaced it, and blew it again, measuring it with an IR thermometer it roams around 135 and 140, so im guessing whoever designed this didnt bother to take the temperatures, i want to place a thermal fuse rated at 150c, however im just wondering,At what temperature can i start a Fire? what i mean its, at what temp can this kind of heathers be considered dangerous? and how safe would it be for me to replace it with the 150c thermal fuse, i already made a topic about this in the past but that one was more focused around varistors

author: GoatZero
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 06:58:48 am
content: i also wonder why is the thermalfuse blowing when its not even close to the resistance that generates the heat? its the wire itself getting warmed up up to 128c?,right now im testing it without a thermalfuse and i can confirm the wire that goes to mains its getting warm, however i cant really tell how much since i can only touch the insulation not the wire itself,also at the max temp its pulling 12.89 Ampers

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 07:15:13 am
content: How did you connect the replacement fuse? What is the tagged wattage? When the fuse first blew was the unit knocked or hit?

author: Dr. Frank
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 08:40:40 am
content: If you solder the thermal fuse, you must use a copper pincer to drain off the heat.Alternatively, the component must be crimped instead of soldering.Frank

author: AmmoJammo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 08:52:05 am
content: Quote from: Dr. Frank on February 01, 2014, 08:40:40 amIf you do it quickly, you can solder thermal fuses no worriesUsed to solder them into PCBs at work, some were 110 degrees. I'd hold it into the board with my thumb on the component body, and if I burnt my thumb, I'd check it with a multimeter to make sure it hadn't blownIf you're soldering it to wires, you can just leave the leads long, solder the wires to the very end of the leads, and there will be a fair bit of thermal dissipation between the end of the lead, and the body of the component.For the device to have a thermal fuse, they must have known it would be getting hot... but why is it getting to 140 degrees?
Uploaded a quick libusb tutorial for cross platform USB development - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jmole
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 10:36:25 pm
content: So about half of this tutorial is on libusb, half is on PSoC 5 LP and PSoC Creator, but the libusb parts are pretty well applicable to most any microcontroller that can do Bulk transfers.So the vimeo video is embedded here with source code downloads for the libusb code and the PSoC Creator project:http://freesoc.net/2013/04/15/using-libusb-with-freesoc/I've also got a youtube version up here:BTW, do you guys find that vimeo streams better than youtube?Let me know.
upper limit of thyristor di/dt? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2019, 09:21:08 am
content: What is the upper limit of thyristor DI/DT for high power devices?The best I find on digikey are pretty similar to a hydrogen thyratron, at around 1000A/uS, for the hockey pucks.for the size/cost, are MCT's or possibly GTO's where I should be looking?

author: Miyuki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2019, 11:17:17 am
content: 1000A/uS is basically a limit for all this devices SCR, GTO ...Higher rate will cause degradation over time so can be used for limited time

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2019, 12:24:27 pm
content: is there a general SCR safe operating curve with regards to extreme surges?more like a unsafe operating curve.I am interested because a thyristor costs some where like 200-400$ and a SiC IGBT bridge costs like 1500+$

author: Miyuki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2019, 12:28:50 pm
content: Most datasheets say just contact manufacturer for this cases

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2019, 12:42:29 pm
content: that seems unattainable for home users.

author: PartialDischarge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2019, 01:24:02 pm
content: Most likely you will not reach the di/dt limit given a practical setup. The limit is probably in the I2t of the device, always given in the specs. I have shorted big capacitors using a relatively small thyristor in 200us and with currents in excess of 20kA.You mention igbts and scrs but since thyristors do not cut off at will the use of one or the other depends on the application. What is your intended use?

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2019, 02:41:40 pm
content: I want to see what happens if you short out the supply and blow a fuse instead of trying to turn the bridge off if there is a problem
UPS 12V/8Ah battery for my Brymen869 power supply  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: lordvader88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2018, 12:48:41 am
content: So I have acquired a (I assume) working DUPS-1232G and it says it has a 12V/8Ah batterySo can I use that whole thing as a charger for the rechargeable battery, and take out the battery and, with a LM317 run my BM869 at it's 9V @6.5mA =58.5mW for days or whatever, and just put it back in and charge it up ?How many cycles are these types of batteries meant to last ? Am I getting my hopes up for nothing ? (Still be great for me in black-outs tho, never had power in the dark at home before besides a flashlight or mp3 player)I should run a windmill out my window, we get a lot of windy days

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2018, 04:08:28 am
content: for me i added a very rare BP189 battery pack for my fluke 189, had an hard time to get it from usa, with 4 x ''C'' batteries i can do 450 hrs of continous use

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2018, 04:10:02 am
content: for your batteries powered brymen,, it depends how you charge them and empty them, i tend to drop them at their limits and fully recharge them, it gives them a good life cyclebut i have an idea for my fluke, add an lithium ion dewalt pack to it, 20volts 5 amp pack should give me a very very good time loll

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2018, 10:29:02 am
content: UPS battery will work, but if the battery is over around 2 years old and has been in the UPS and powered all the time it likely is pretty much toast, as most small UPS units are going to keep the batteries nice and hot by putting them in the box heated by a cheap power transformer next to them.However, providing the battery has an open circuit voltage over 12V5 after being charged for an hour, it will run the UPS unloaded for at least 20 minutes, and it does not rattle when shaken, it likely will work. Just remember that on most low end UPS units the battery is not isolated from the mains, and thus is floating at either one of the mains terminals potential ( so could be live or neutral depending on the wiring in the room and the cable) or is at half mains potential, with current delivery being only limited by the fuse in the input or the supply side fuse.Remember your LM317 power supply has a need to have a 10mA minimum load on it, so the total draw will be around 15mA, as you will have current through the voltage setting network, though the battery capacity at 15mA draw will be a lot better than at the C/20 test rate, so it will last a considerable time in use. As wll you can run the battery down to 8V using this, at the expense of reducing the cycle life considerably, but the meter will work down to around 8V on the battery with the LM317 giving probably 6V to the meter before the meter gives a low battery indication.
UPS external battery hack questions and recommendations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 09:41:02 am
content: After having run a test on my new CyberPower CP1300PFCLCD using a 400 W load (half of what the UPS is rated for), I have decided to hack the UPS to include an external battery connection option at the back since the UPS is supposed to run for around 10 minutes at that power draw from its internal batteries as mentioned on their website but only got 3 minutes on a fully charged pack of fresh batteries and got very frustrated as that was the main reason I went for this UPS.The mod has already been done and was tested at the same load of 400 W and lasted an hour on two small car batteries.That being said, I realized i might have a small problem or maybe not.I will only ever need to run such a load for 10 minutes so I will have to buy two 12V batteries with a capacity of around 45 AH an wire them in series since the UPS works in a 24 V configuration.At 400W, the UPS is drawing 22 A from the batteries and since I would like to make the most use of the power, I thought that at 800W of load, around 45A will be drawn so a minimum of 45 AH battery is what I need.Second problem is charging the battery pack. The UPS can only provide about 0.5A of charging current so that would mean in case I fully discharge the 45AH battery pack, It would need about 4 days to get them fully charged again!Could I then just use a more powerful charger in parallel to the batteries while connected to the UPS or will having two chargers working simultaneously be damaging to the batteries?Lastly, I tried running the UPS on a DC power supply of 24V and the UPS would not cold boot. Tried connecting it in parallel with the battery pack and later on disconnected the batteries and the UPS would still shut down.Why is this happening? The power supply is a 1500 W mean well unit so it's definitely not a power issue.
UPS for my needs (long run-time) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2018, 08:50:37 am
content: I have two pc's at home that I game on.They consume about 400W while gaming and I need a UPS that will be able to keep them online for as long as my external batteries will last (2x38AH 12V in series).I have found the 2500VA model of thishttp://www.pceups.com/products/inverters/xplavailable at my local computer shop.Since it is rated for 1500W, does that mean it can run a 100% duty cycle assuming I can run it from a 1500W DC power supply?I will only realistically use 1/3 of its capacity now but maybe benefit from the extra power in the future.Reason why I'm asking is because I've been modifying UPS's with internal batteries to accept my large 38AH batteries expecting much longer runtimes but they seem to shutdown way before the batteries voltage drops low enough or because they overheat.The batteries should in theory last around 1:30 hours at a 400W load but what UPS will I need for this to work? should I just buy the one mentioned earlier even though the runtimes are not stated in the data sheet?

author: Kevman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2018, 07:29:00 pm
content: I have a hard time imagining a 2500VA UPS overheating under a 400W load.You could also get a double-conversion UPS such as this one:https://www.tripplite.com/smartonline-120v-750va-600w-double-conversion-ups-2u-rack-tower-extended-run-snmpwebcard-option-usb-db9-serial~SU750RTXL2UThey work by always running off of battery, so it'll definitely be able run indefinitely at full power even of battery.Supposedly has a loud fan, though.

author: Bratster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2018, 08:12:25 pm
content: A lot of UPS's also have either hard-coded or sometimes changeable parameters expecting how big a battery bank is. So they will think the pack is empty even when it is not if it's larger than expected.You might look into an APC smart UPS. The older ones still work great and are very well-documented on the communication protocol and what values can be modified. I have a 2200xl, you can tell it how many external batteries are connected. It will then adjust the run time calculation. You can also go in over serial and adjust values not normally seen by the user, to change the charging voltage EtcSent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2018, 08:13:17 pm
content: It could be overheating, many UPS's use simple heatsinks that essentially rely on thermal mass, which works ok if you're only running it for a few minutes. If you want to run for an extended period you may have to add a fan and/or larger finned heatsinks. Even a small amount of heat produced will build up over time if it has nowhere to go.

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2018, 09:33:18 pm
content: I've found what I was looking for:https://www.cyberpower.com/ww/en/product/sku/CPS1000EBought it since it has two fans and it built like a tank!
UPS output configuration questions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2018, 12:31:48 am
content: So my UPS is quite sofisticated in that I can change some output parameters but I am not sure what to set those at:Slew rate 0.25 to 4 Hz/s.Static frequency tolerance from 1 to 10%.Note sure what settings to select for those functions.Electricity is of poor quality I would say in case that makes it easier to select the settings to chose.

author: ChunkyPastaSauce
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 18, 2018, 03:01:21 am
content: Static frequency tolerance sets the acceptable input frequency range, when its outside of that the UPS takes action. If the target frequency is 60hz and you set 5% tolerance, then the UPS will override if the incoming frequency is outside of 57-63Hz. Most utility supply regions have a tolerance of somewhere around +-0.5Hz. Low quality generators may have much larger range. Many (but not all) computer type equipment can function with 5% frequency tolerance. Some types of motorized equipment require tighter than 5%.Slew rate sets how fast the input frequency is allowed to change before the UPS takes action. A setting of 1 Hz/s means the input frequency can change from 60Hz->61Hz no faster than 1 second before the UPS overrides. I don't know what the large utilities supply, but it's probably going to be low. A low quality generator might have much higher values (especially if equipment will be dynamically loading generator). If the output load is something that can not change quickly (for example a large motor with large inertia), then you'd likely set the slew rate on the lower side. Many computer type equipment power supplies (switching) are more tolerant, so you could set higher in many cases.In both cases, you'd likely set these between whatever tolerance your source provides and whatever tolerance the equipment can take.

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2018, 08:25:21 am
content: Quote from: ChunkyPastaSauce on March 18, 2018, 03:01:21 amThanks for the elaborate answer.I have two computers attached to the UPS running 24/7 (mining) and although I understood the terms I am still not quite sure what to set those at...
UPS repair - Any suggestions? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AndersJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2018, 05:15:55 pm
content: Mini Guard Series UPS does not turn on.It behaves as if it does not see the battery or the incoming AC mains.Does anyone have any experience, or a schematic diagram?The display shown below does not appear.Only the backlight is on, while button is pressed.

author: Dbn281977
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 09, 2018, 11:05:42 pm
content: I have no experience on this brand but, the ones i do repair are very heavy duty units and 90% of them i repair, the fuses to the battery bank are blown ans several MOSFETs are bad usually a dead short. I replace them and the fuses , never had anymore problems with the unit. Hope that points you in the right direction.

author: Gregg
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2018, 04:49:36 am
content: It may not turn on unless it senses a minimum DC voltage on the battery bus. This is to keep from bursting bad batteries that may not take a charge. If the battery fuses are intact, check the connections; if a lead acid battery has leaked, the corrosion can creep up the wire under the insulation and ruin crimp connections and even bolted connections.