hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Reverse engineering a gear set's generation parameters - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2024, 11:03:37 pm
content: I'm trying to work out what parameters I previously used, in terms of things like the profile shift, modifications to the pressure angle, dedendum and addendum... when I generated the following gear outline. I want to work out these values so I can generate new gears which will match with those used in it, and give the same conveniently bulky teeth on the sun gear that this collection of settings managed. I cannot remember how I generated this gear set, I made it a long time ago and I think I used a website of some sort as the generator, but whatever parameters I used then I hope to be able to reuse in an openscad script (https://github.com/dpellegr/PolyGear/works well if one modifies its planetary example script slightly ) now to make gears with the same tooth shape. Can anyone help work out what parameters made the teeth this shape? In the openscad script adjusting the profile shift doesn't seem to bulk up the sun gear's teeth, either for positive or negative, but I'm sure it was a profile shift that, previously, was the main change which let me generate this set of gears without huge undercuts in the sun's teeth.I attach an image of the gear outline, an stl of their outline extruded to make 3d volumes, and a dxf of the outline. In all cases I've placed some hexagonal spikes at the central point of the sun gear (shared with central point of the ring gear) and the central point in the planet gear, to make it clear where the axes go. Is there a way to reverse engineer form these geomatries to get back to the paramter list needed for generating them?Thanks

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 12:46:52 am
content: You can load the image into FreeCAD, create some new gears and place them on top of the image, and then fiddle with the parameters to make them fit as good as you can manage.You can probably get to micrometer level accuracy quite easily, and most of those parameters do not have to be exact copies anyway.It is indeed profile shift that is used for gears with very few teeth to "bulk up" the root of the teeth and prevent undercut. If you do not see a change in openscad, then that part of the gear generator may be broken. Pressure angle is usually 20 degrees for metric gears, and I think 17.5 degrees when using banana units, but if you make all the meshing gears yourself you can choose another value, although I see not much reason to do so.In addition, I don't like much how the clearance at the root of the teeth is created in your drawings. It looks like a complete arc. This removes more material then needed, and it looks like it even creates undercut while there is no reason to do so. Dedendum is usually 1.25 (for metric gears) and this is plenty clearance (with addendum of 1.0) for clearance. Instead of a single big arc at the root, use two small fillets at the root of each teeth and either a line or an arc (with it's center coinciding with the gear center) to leave more material on the gear.
ceramic lace/braid termination - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2024, 09:44:24 pm
content: If you have a frayed braid of ceramic, and its still pretty hot, how do you like bundle it up nicely so it does not fray?I thought there might be some kinda more moderate temeprature material that you can wrap around the end of your braid to bunch it up and maybe set it in something. So there is no fuzzies near the electrical contact.Normally you use heat shrink for this, but I think it might be too hot there

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2024, 11:44:23 pm
content: What temperature does it need to survive?

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 12:09:20 am
content: IDK how hot that screw terminal gets. Its resistance wire that goes into the heater
High temp contact grease - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2024, 04:37:14 pm
content: My pid oven got a thermocouple disconnect error. I have a ceramic thermocouple adapter in the oven to connnect a probe to the cable. When I replugged it, the error went away.Is there a high temp contact grease I can use to improve this connection?I need the adapter because I use a heavy solid wire to route it and a thin stranded probe to measure (I.e. tape to pcb

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2024, 04:18:54 am
content: lol, the venus motor document from the other venus thread might be the best source of information on this. they actually tested alot of grease with pictures to show you how it ends up.

author: mzzj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2024, 08:31:31 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on June 20, 2024, 04:18:54 amWhat thread or pdf you are referring to?

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2024, 02:48:57 pm
content: https://esmats.eu/esmatspapers/pastpapers/pdfs/2017/rehnmark.pdf
Razor 200 DC TIG Welding Machine (US / ANZ) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Njk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2024, 09:07:29 pm
content: Model KUMJRRW200 (or KUMJRRW160). Any owner here?Edit: Or XA-TIG200PRZ, a Kiwi version with slightly different firmware, no matter
Looking for a rotary switch cap that looks like this... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dostr63
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2024, 05:08:33 pm
content: Hi - I'm looking for a particular vintage feel - and hence a rotary switch-cap that looks like this:(to fit a standard 6.35mm D-shaped shaft, rather than a one-piece switch, which I think the item in the picture is)Chickenheads are nice, but not quite right for this application (don't want the 'tail' side)

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2024, 05:51:08 pm
content: Hackaday has collect a whole lot of articles about making custom knobs. From 3D printing and casting in resin to a bunch of other methods.https://hackaday.com/blog/?s=knob

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2024, 08:09:50 pm
content: For that kind of look, you'll probably have more success on vintage car/bike/truck forums.Otherwise, 3D-print it.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2024, 12:25:15 pm
content: That style of knob is generally more common on industrial electrical stuff. Maybe look at big vendors of industrial components, like ABB, Schneider Electric, etc.
What is NEMA? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: eeguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2024, 07:15:20 pm
content: Hi, I came across some projects that use NEMA 17 or NEMA 23 motors. What does NEMA mean? Is it a some kind of standard to distinguish among motors of different sizes?

author: DimitriP
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2024, 07:23:46 pm
content: Yes!

author: Veteran68
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2024, 07:52:08 pm
content: With the handle 'eeguy' and based in US, I have to believe you know what NEMA is?As to why stepper motors are referred to in NEMA terms:https://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_MotorQuote

author: DimitriP
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2024, 07:57:41 pm
content: So...still "Yes".

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2024, 08:20:11 pm
content: Quote from: eeguy on January 25, 2024, 07:15:20 pmhttps://www.nema.org/about

author: MarkT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2024, 10:58:24 am
content: Its actually less work to ask a search engine this than a forum, and the answer comes back quicker...

author: drago462
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2024, 07:28:36 am
content: NEMA 17 refers to it having a 1.7" x 1.7" frame.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2024, 07:37:16 am
content: Like all standards it has also been bastardized so pick an item with care in particular when it comes to the shaft dimension and if it is metric or imperial and is the key 'standard' or 'special'In theory as others stated it 'generally' means frame size but there is a huge level of variations from there. Take a glance here and do a search for hybrid nema 17 steppers there is dozens to filter downhttps://www.omc-stepperonline.com/hybrid-stepper-motor?mfp=184-frame-size-mm[Nema%2017%20(42%20x%2042)]

author: MarkT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2024, 10:23:35 pm
content: BTW standard NEMA sizes for steppers are 8,11,14,17,23,34,42

author: jotalepe
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 18, 2024, 08:20:54 pm
content: https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Electrical_Manufacturers_Association

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2024, 04:08:32 am
content: its a organized crime grouptheir thing is if you drill the holes in the correct orientation your piece of shit motor becomes 'industrial grade' (similar to craniology)the question you should be asking is "what's in the box?!"I say this because people will advertise products as having "NEMA RATED MOTORS". It does not mean much.
Settting up jindiya(KINGDEAR)  LJZ2-450X3700 double headed aluminium saw  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mentholflash
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2024, 04:25:56 am
content: Hi allTrying to set up double cutter for the boss after resolder battery wire and replaced batteries to digital read out box.It is 2005 model ljz2Or can anyone point me in the direction of downloadable manualThanks in advanceCheersa
Boston Dynamics New Humanoid Robot - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 18, 2024, 12:20:38 am
content: https://bostondynamics.com/blog/electric-new-era-for-atlas/?utm_campaign=cy24q2-atlas&utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=social

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2024, 12:39:53 am
content: This stuff is getting pretty awesome. I hope in about 20 years when I need one to take care of me at home it will be a reality.

author: Kim Christensen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2024, 04:19:04 am
content: Judging by the scuff marks, it looks like they've already kicked it and hit it with a stick.Also, someone has labeled the left and right elbow joints with felt pen in case it gets dismembered again.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2024, 01:15:00 pm
content: That was from Bosstown Dynamics. That's a whole other company.

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2024, 03:35:55 pm
content: Impressive work on those hip and shoulder joints, does it look to you like they actually do the full 360 degrees multiple times and need slip rings? or not?

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2024, 06:55:39 pm
content: Quote from: Infraviolet on April 20, 2024, 03:35:55 pmNo way to tell such a thing from the outside. Both the turret of windmills and the inside of a steering wheel of cars are mechanism that can pass electricity over a joint that can do several revolutions by either twisting a cable (windmill) or similar to the spring in a tape measure.

author: W4PJB
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2024, 12:50:47 pm
content: I got a tour of their R&D lab a year go when I worked for one of their suppliers. The entire building is about as wild as you would expect it. And yes, there are robot doggos wandering the hallways everywhere. They're living in the future every day.
Repurposing PVC Pipe for DIY Projects - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jonovid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2024, 10:28:37 am
content: looks like a good Idea for one of a kind electronics enclosures , modified power tools or battery box'swhat type of PVC glue would you recommend for this? as it must melt the PVC laminate sheets into one solid block without delamination over time .

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2024, 12:02:49 pm
content: The builder is using CA glue. What's wrong with what he chose, seems to know what he's doing. You can use SCIGrip 16 if you don't want to use that.

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2024, 12:23:03 pm
content: Quote from: xrunner on April 28, 2024, 12:02:49 pmCA glue is a bad choice for pvc

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2024, 12:30:41 pm
content: Quote from: langwadt on April 28, 2024, 12:23:03 pmWhy do you think that builder is using it? Just curious your thoughts on it. He (or she) doesn't seem like a person to make a mistake like that.

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2024, 12:52:13 pm
content: Quote from: xrunner on April 28, 2024, 12:30:41 pmeasily available and it'll last long enough to make a video ..

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2024, 01:06:18 pm
content: It's a gimmick, a "DIY" vid for views and viral trending, neither practical in terms of build complexity nor functionality.If you really must, solvent welding with THF and related solvents is the usual method.Tim
Electrical pump affecting other devices - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: crgarcia
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2024, 04:17:40 pm
content: I had a swimming pool pump(1)and next to it a device(2)that measures the Ph and other stuffs with smaller pumps to add chlorine, etc.Both devices where connected to socketsnext to each other, with the same line from mains using Wago connectorsDiagram:The pump broke, and the company changed it for a new one. The new one works fine, but now the slow-blown fuse(3)of the measurement device breaks all the time.The company that installed the pump is saying that the installation is probably defective, and the problem cannot be the pump, but when i connect the pump to a different wire (same phase, just longer wire) then everything works fineDiagram:What could be the issue?Is there any way I could measure the noise (or whatever) with an oscilloscope and differential probes?Thank you very much!

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2024, 09:01:43 pm
content: You could measure some of the noise with a differential probe yeah. Maybe switch on and switch off will be the worst.Its possible the pump is generating a high voltage, and there is a MOV in device 2 that is clamping that and blowing the fuse. But without seeing what device 2 is or how its connected its hard to say.Any model numbers for the pump or device?

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2024, 10:50:47 pm
content: Unlikely that the pump would generate spikes that would blow a fuse.A more likely scenario is that your controller  is badly designed to withstand "brownouts".Your pump seems to be a single-phase, cap-run induction motor.Those can draw up to 6...8 times nominal current during starting, and if your 230 V supply isn't "stiff" enough, you'll have a brownout condition where the line voltage drops.Your supplying the pump through a longer cable away from the controller supports that scenario.Any chance of connecting the pump to another mains phase?In any case, check all the connections, also at the house. A corroded joint somewhere can make a lot of trouble.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2024, 02:04:39 am
content: i would be suspicious of the pump that is causing strange things to happen it might mean bad high voltage electrical connectionsit sounds like you should have a electrician check out the run. i know someone that almost got killed working on some stupid pool pump with bad wiringI don't recall exactly but something about wet concrete being unusually conductive. maybe the pool chemicals too.if you have a brown out the power supply will draw more current an blow a fuse, the best tool for shady pumps is a graphing meter like a fluke 289, then you can record line voltage over time while you are not near the thing when its powered up
kiln related tools and accessories - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 04:24:53 pm
content: If anyone has a muffle furnace or kiln they use in the shop do you have any tool recommendations to use with it? My kiln is small (5 inch cube interior).I got- crucible tongs for my little crucibles (nickel, silicon carbide and quartz) from fisher-ITC 100 and ITC 296 coatings so I can put coatings on structural stuff to put in the kiln-extra fire bricks so I have a place to set possibly hot objectsI made a little grooved fire brick cut to 1/2 inch thickness with grooves on the top and bottom that I smoothed out with furnace cement to act as a build platform. It seems to lap OK on silicon carbide paper on a piece of glass so it does not wobble. I think its basically a heath plate, I hope the ITC 296 coating works for making it durable as a melting platform.If I am interested in maybe small scale smelting, heat treating metal and possibly making ceramic PCB (thick film) and prototype brazing. are there any specific tools that would help with kiln us in a lab environment?also, anything for making springs. I wanted to be able to make springs that need the heat.Some stuff I was thinking about was- maybe building a little shelf, with some ceramic rods and maybe alumina strips.-A small cooling chamber made out of two fire bricks that are coated, with the top one being hollowed out, so if I have a small part that I take out of the oven, I can put it on top of a fire brick with a lid made out of another brick. Kind of like how food is served in a platter with a lid in a fancy place (big turkey)still on the project even thought it cost me a financial shanking with the blown heater
tips for preventing card rage? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2024, 08:37:52 am
content: What techniques are there to reduce the incidence of card rage (when you have to fit a card in a box)?My plan that will probobly somehow be foiled is1) use staked standoffs on PCB2) insert transfer screws to do layoutOf course I tried to do this , but i forgot the order of assembly (another module had to be installed on top first), which means that I put in screws, installed the top module and then tighten the bottom thing on the screws that were kinda wedged under the top module. It might spin or it might not spin.I got lucky but by the end of the ordeal I was candidate for a zoo exhibit. I don't know what disassembly will look like down the line, perhaps it will be easier because I would not have just been finished with hours of painful deburring, painting, etc.Other techniques1) use nibbler to remove parts of the top flange so that screw drivers can fit (life saver, no mess, you can capture the segment you cut off even if the boards are installed without the post file or worse burr cleaning)2) keep carbide drills on hands for all sizes to be able to mod card holes neatly with less rage3) mini vacuum cleaner hose adapter4) extra long aviation drill set. I need to get these, and a extra long countersink5) really beefy right angle flathead screw driver, because you can use it to pry a heatsink up if you misdrill a hole by 0.5mm and you can't fit the screw. Like a lever. Just be careful.6) nice new set of sharp files particularly round one in coarse, fine and diamond fine.7) as much deburring supplies as you can afford (there is ALOT).stainless steel KEPS nuts so you can ground through paint if you forgot9) big ultrasonic box for cleaning stuff before painting. I am always surprised by how much crap ends up on the bottom of the ultrasonic even after something has been washed and rinsed etc. that is how you get good paint jobs10) PID oven for baking before and after painting so your not at the mercy of condensation, temperature ,etcThere must be some handy chassis tools to make this a more civilized proceeding. I mean when it goes wrong because making an assembly plan for something you make on a weekend is just LAME (30$ an hour MINIMUM required!). Especially if its a mod for something that is already a major piece of shit and the time use of modifying it is borderline insane.I feel like every chassis project I try to make it more professional and something ends up kicking my ass. I like steel boxes and grounds so no 3d printer.THis is meant for making more advanced hammond box designs go smoother

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2024, 08:55:54 am
content: Also does anyone have any specific screw grabbing pliers like for 6-32 or 4-40 or 8-32 that you can go in from the top and turn it like a socket but with less bulk more like a plier mixed with a spanner? So you can maneuver around obstructions. Perhaps extra long so you can bend them into a curve if you want would be nicelike hose grip pliers but hex
Shelly Products - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: PixieDust
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2023, 08:34:25 am
content: I was interested in purchasing a Shelly Power Meter:https://www.shelly.com/en/products/shop/shelly-plus-2-pmBut when I went to specifications, I noticed that its operating temperature range is -20 to 40C. This immediately set off alarm bells so I started doing some light digging. Turns out the things run really hot and aren't even certified for Australia:https://community.home-assistant.io/t/shelly-2-5-getting-hot-to-touch-63-c-external-case-should-i-be-worried/175376/9There's no way I'm putting something into my wall that runs up to 90C before shutting off. I also learned that Australian power cables are rated up to 70C, so I don't know, these things sound really dangerous. How have they been certified anywhere other than Iceland? These are borderline dodgy technology.Am I overlooking something?Does anyone have any alternatives that will work in Australia?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2023, 10:33:09 pm
content: It looks like all of their stuff is rated 0 or -20 to 40C. They say there is an automatic temperature shutdown of 95C, but yeah, I wouldn't buy it for anything other than maybe LEDs.This is an incredibly common device no? Should be able to find other vendors, eg sonoff, etc.

author: PixieDust
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2023, 11:52:26 pm
content: People are seeing them run to over 70C even running a few low power LEDs! I'll habe a look at Sonoff.

author: liaifat85
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2023, 07:02:40 am
content: Looks like shelly 3M is licensed in Australia.https://www.facebook.com/groups/ShellyIoTCommunitySupport/posts/5570797243019594/

author: onsokumaru
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2024, 08:30:42 am
content: I have some shelly devices in use and had no issues so far. A Shelly EM, two led strip controllers, a dimmer and some shelly plugs. Not heavy loads in any of them, I use them way below their max load specs.I think it depends on your particular use case, if it's just the power monitor I don't think it's going to overheat, problems probably come when the relay they include is handling a heavy load for a long time. I think their rate for max relay load is too optimistic, but apart from that I'll say their producs work nice and are easy to set up.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2024, 11:58:21 am
content: Bunnings sells PC191HA's thatcan be used with homeassistant if reprogrammed with esphome. Would they do what you want? They have a relay and power monitoring.I tried to do this about a month ago. Unfortunately it turns out that homeassistant is the most picky software in the world about what hardware it runs on, and "addons" (like esphome) only work if you are using an official supported hardware platform.

author: drago462
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2024, 07:23:40 am
content: For a small power consumition should be ok (LEDs).
Coupling to connect D-shaped motor shaft to SFU1605 ballscrew - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: eeguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2024, 04:00:54 pm
content: Hello, which type of coupling (e.g. plum shaped, bore rigid, flexible, etc.) is best to connect a 8mm D-shaped shaft (shaft length 20mm, D-cut length 15mm) from a NEMA stepper motor to an end of a 16mm SFU1605 ballscrew (seems to have 10mm diameter at the ends)? Can't seem to find one with a set screw to fixate the D shaft.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2024, 08:58:55 pm
content: I'd use something like this, but I haven't found it in 8/10 mm:

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2024, 10:13:48 pm
content: Google 8x10 or 8 to 10mm coupling and you'll find them.If the torque is not super high then I'm sure the split in half style would be fine too. But, you could always drill and tap for a setscrew too if you want.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2024, 03:55:05 am
content: It really is nothing special. Use any coupling which just has a round hole and a setscrew. The only thing you need to pay some attention to is that the setscrew mates with the flat part on the shaft.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2024, 05:33:33 pm
content: Quote from: eeguy on February 10, 2024, 04:00:54 pmJust as an FYI: Someone correct me if I’m wrong, but I’m fairly sure “plum” coupling is a Chinglish term. We call them flexible or spider couplings. Just like Chinese “plum” shafts on potentiometers are called “knurled” shafts in English.
Mitutoyo Digimatic Interface Pinout Handbuch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2024, 10:38:16 pm
content: After months of trying to find pinouts for various Digimatic indicators, I stumbled on this link to an actual manual ("Handbuch"). It's in English. It even covers the presetter.If this is keyword spamming, I apologize. I added enough keywords to help others, like me, find it in the future. I found it by looking for the 543 Digimatic Presetter, which might not be pellucidly obvious to someone just dealing with Mitutoyo SPC output.Link:https://www.labviewforum.de/attachment.php?aid=21297
Com port terminal with multiple files to send at once. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: djdan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2024, 02:45:41 am
content: Hi all!I'd like to know if someone ever find a program (free would be great) that isable to send several files at once.I've tried "Tera - YAT - Putty - Real and Termnit" but everyone has onlyone file at a time. I have to send around 15 small files.So if anyone have a name that would be nice of you.I'm on win7 64 using com port via USB-TTL adapter.Thanks at advance.

author: MarkT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2024, 10:52:36 am
content: zip archive?

author: darkspr1te
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2024, 05:44:31 am
content: Some serial terminal programs support xmodem/ymodem/zmodem protocols , you can use that to transfer multiple files.You have not said what terminal equipment you are connecting too so we can only offer a guess or twodarkspr1te
damping compound for ultrasonic cleaning board with crystal? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2024, 07:27:44 am
content: I have a board that has a nasty dsub connector that I want to ultrasonic clean but it also has a clock crystal on it.Not terribly attached to that board, but I was wondering, can i stick some silly putty or something on the crystal to protect it so I can dip the connector into the cleaner for maybe 20 seconds?I am kinda scared to ultrasonic clean the crystals.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2024, 08:32:11 pm
content: After an arduous search, I came across this:https://forum.digikey.com/t/ultrasonic-cleaning-of-pcb-s-with-crystals/8814What is the frequency?

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2024, 09:58:22 pm
content: i think the crystal is 4MHz and the ultrasonic is unknownBut from a physics prospective, putting a sticky putty on the crystal should offer extra protection? Its a through hole part, but flush with the bottom of the PCB.Should I put a little wad of putty on the bottom too?I just wanna dip it like 2cm to get the dsub connector.
nasa gets the last ******* fastener - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2024, 08:28:06 pm
content: https://www.yahoo.com/news/nasa-finally-figures-open-1-110037351.html

author: Stray Electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2024, 01:16:33 am
content: The last time that I know of NASA having trouble getting a container open was on Apollo 1 in 1967.Yes, I remember when it happened, so I guess that makes me an old codger.

author: DimitriP
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2024, 02:00:36 am
content: QuoteWell....all righty then!It's January, so it didn't take that long...

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2024, 02:04:37 am
content: should have employed a few kids and told them there not allowed to open it.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2024, 04:48:26 am
content: https://boltbusterinc.com/

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2024, 06:35:38 am
content: if you read carefully it has to do with contamination protocols

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2024, 07:23:24 am
content: also the andromeda strain comes to mind I guess they don't like sending the joes in with chisels

author: Stray Electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2024, 02:50:11 pm
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on January 22, 2024, 07:23:24 am
Anyone understands this Gcode ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: PartialDischarge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2024, 08:39:46 am
content: I have a laser engraver to which Lightburns sends a square to burn.The square is 20mm by 3mm and a spacing of 0,5mm in between lines is set. The software does indeed Y movements of 0.5mm and X laser engravings of 20mm, but there are G1 commands at 0% power I don't understand:G1 X12.5S0G1 X20S50G1 X12.5S0Anyone knows?Code:; LightBurn 1.4.05; GRBL device profile, absolute coords; Bounds: X36.2 Y53.78 to X81.2 Y64.28;USER START SCRIPT$LG90G0 F240000;M116A2B-4;USER START SCRIPTG00 G17 G40 G21 G54G90M4; Scan @ 500 mm/sec, 5% powerM8G0 X81.2Y64.282; Layer C00G91G1 X-12.5F30000S0G1 X-20S50G1 X-12.5S0G1 Y-0.5S0G1 X12.5S0G1 X20S50G1 X12.5S0G1 Y-0.5S0G1 X-12.5S0G1 X-20S50G1 X-12.5S0G1 Y-0.5S0G1 X12.5S0G1 X20S50G1 X12.5S0G1 Y-0.5S0

author: PartialDischarge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2024, 08:48:37 am
content: Departing 12.5mm from each side seems like a strategy from the program to increase line definition maybe?Could not find any setting in the program that defines this 12.5mm

author: abeyer
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2024, 12:34:51 am
content: This is there to compensate for acceleration/deceleration limits of your laser head. The mechanical bits can't instantaneously stop and reverse direction, so it will generate gcode to move (with the laser off) outside the bounds of your engraving area so that the machine will already be up to speed in the correct direction before enabling the laser. Otherwise you would accelerate and decelerate within the bounds of your engraving while the laser was on, leading to the edges of your engraved area having a longer dwell time under the laser and thus getting over-engraved. (It's also possible to achieve something similar by reducing the power relative to the acceleration curves, though I don't know if lightburn supports that.)I don't specifically know how to configure this in lightburn, but my guess would be it's not necessarily a direct thing you control, but rather it's calculating the necessary over-travel distance needed based on the acceleration parameters of your hardware that are defined in its profile.

author: PartialDischarge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2024, 05:59:59 am
content: This particular engraver can do 4000mm/s so probably this behaviour is coded in Lightburn as good practice for every machine.
ALOHA mobile humanoid robotics system from Google DeepMind - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: djsb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2024, 05:40:42 pm
content: Available from Trossen Roboticshttps://www.trossenrobotics.com/aloha.aspxPaper herehttps://tonyzhaozh.github.io/aloha/aloha.pdfI've just started reading about this myself but thought I'd start a topic in case people find it interesting.I wonder if it really is something new or has it been done before. It's open source so that could be good. Thanks.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2024, 10:31:25 pm
content: Could be useful for automated testing or similar tasks. Still not cheap though:"Open-source Hardware System for Bimanual Teleoperation. With a $20k budget, it is capable of teleoperating precise tasks such as threading a zip tie, dynamic tasks such as juggling a ping pong ball, and contact-rich tasks such as assembling the chain in the NIST board #2. "

author: drago462
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2024, 07:32:44 am
content: It would be great if you could record a sequence to automate repetitive tasks.
USED- Motor drive plate P2 / C9301 P2 C9301 L1-AYE - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: amir444
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 18, 2024, 09:59:25 am
content: I have many USED- Motor drive plate P2 / C9301 P2 C9301 L1-AYE but I didn't find any datasheet from it.Is there anyone here who can help me?
Tesla's Optimus - fake it till you make it - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2024, 02:11:26 pm
content: Elon published a video showing Tesla's Optimus bot folding a t-shirt. A few minutes later someone pointed out a telepresence control glove poking into the frame. After another 20 minutes Elon admits the deception:- Elon Musk’s Latest Robot Video Accidentally Gives Away The Magic Trick -https://www.forbes.com/sites/mattnovak/2024/01/15/elon-musks-latest-robot-video-accidentally-gives-away-the-magic-trick/- Busted: Elon Musk admits new Optimus video isn't what it seems -https://newatlas.com/robotics/tesla-optimus-folds-shirt/

author: tatel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2024, 06:00:36 pm
content: I can't swallow this guy since the coup in Bolivia. IMO he should be h****d using their own g**s as rope

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2024, 03:29:26 am
content: That is still pretty impressive. If we can do remote teleoperated drone strikes, why not folding clothes.I welcome my new remote telepresence cleaning lady overlords.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2024, 05:03:14 am
content: Quote from: tatel on January 16, 2024, 06:00:36 pmpretty sure that seems like the plot of quantum of solace

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2024, 12:43:44 am
content: Quote
noctua rubber fan mount things? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2023, 07:49:10 am
content: Noctua sells their fans with these rubber spikes that you pull through a hole to clamp the fan to the chassis.They are convenient and I imagine it dampens the noise when combined with the rubber corner pieces on the fan.How do you feel about them?https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SAV2-Accessory-Anti-Vibration-Mounts/dp/B00KG3KUK6I have one fan connected to a function generator now with them for like a year and it has not fallen off yet.

author: mendip_discovery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2023, 12:39:48 pm
content: Anything to separate the vibes from the chassis. This is ok when the fan is balanced, but as it becomes unbalanced it might some very low frequency vibes. The rubber will also wear etc.It's better than nowt but only time will tell.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2023, 09:29:28 pm
content: if its the same durability as my kitchen gadgets it should last a long time. A spatula developed a tear after maybe 15 years.At least thats what I am hoping.probobly rigol 1052e gets this mount because I have been replacing some fans. Equipment is a little quieter but it adds up quickly if you have multiple test gears running from gear running to annoying.

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2024, 06:12:26 am
content: Rubber doesn't last forever, but these are inexpensive (well, probably not for what they are, but in regards to their lifetime) - if they start cracking in 10 years, just replace them. And rubber is susceptible to high temperatures. For chassis fan mounts, I bet the temperature will never be that high, so you should be good for well over 10 years even.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2024, 06:22:44 am
content: i think its silicone rubber btw, I don't think its rubber stopper rubber

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 12:16:18 am
content: They specifically call them "premium-grade silicone" on the website.https://noctua.at/en/na-sav3The aliexpress ones I got also feel to be siliconehttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005746770137.html

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 03:03:44 am
content: Dell 0N399 Rubber Grommets Anti-Vibration Fan Mount. These go way back, still surprised to see how long they last

author: John B
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2024, 07:40:14 pm
content: I use them on all my computer builds now. Yes, I'm a bit of a sucker for Noctua stuff.The help to reduce mid range resonances / whines coming from the fans. The overall volume of the fan won't change dramatically, but they help to solve the problematic frequencies that are produced when you solidly connected a fan to sheet metal.
Looking for 39-pin Connectors Datasheet - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: FxDev
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2023, 09:55:43 pm
content: Hello everyone,I'm looking for 39 pin connectors and case datasheets or technical drawing in this link. I found some technical drawing but it is not enough for meHave anybody these datasheets?Thanks!https://tr.aliexpress.com/i/33012322977.html

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2023, 01:50:05 pm
content: So… ask the seller?But realistically, if you need products with proper datasheets and reliable specifications, AliExpress is the wrong place to look.

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2023, 08:59:31 pm
content: 39 pin connecotrs to fit in to some already existing thing which uses them? or 39 pins by free choice? If you're freely choosing the connector on the board you're designing right now and on the thing it connects to then bump up to 40 pins and you'll find loads more options (options with full datasheets provided on their webpages), use the extra pin as an extra ground, or leave it unused.

author: JPortici
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2023, 09:03:07 am
content: should be a SICMA connector but i couldn't find the 39pin variant anywhere in the catalogs, could be an unofficial part but it will probably have the same spacings between big and small pins
Standard convention for motor shaft directions? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2023, 07:12:33 pm
content: Is there a convention for which way the rotation of a motor's shaft is considered "+" and "-"? If it is based on clockwise vs anticlockwise, then would anti-clockwise mean a "right hand screw rule" with the thumb pointing from the motor's body out along the shaft, or would it be interpreted with the thumb pointing from the shaft's tip down towards the motor body?Or is this choice of which direction is positive something that varies between different manufacturers of servos, gearboxes, motors...I've been designing a few moving mechanisms and want to check which is the right way to describe the right (or left) way when I write up documentation.Thanks

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2023, 07:26:16 pm
content: CW or CCW when looking at the end where the shaft comes out of the drivehttps://support.industry.siemens.com/cs/document/60605536/defining-the-direction-of-motor-rotation?dti=0&lc=en-DK

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2023, 08:19:46 pm
content: Positive (+) rotation is CCW and - is CW. Think of a graph in the 1st quadrant. The angle increases with CCW rotation. That is also consistent with the notion that left handedness is sinister (S in chemistry). BTW, most propellers on small American airplane turn CCW from the front. British airplanes were usually reversed. Hence the need to apply right rudder in American airplanes during takeoff, particularly with single-engine versions.

author: liaifat85
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2023, 06:54:06 am
content: You can check this out too:

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2023, 04:59:52 pm
content: Thanks, with langwadt's like plus jpanhalt's info it would seem that if a motor is behind a clock face with the shaft poking out of the clock, then the positive direction would have the hand going anti-clockwise.
Any application suggestion for this alignment auto correction device? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: onleihong
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 07, 2023, 02:21:48 am
content: Currently, it is being used to correct the feeding material like woven fabrics for mask production machine because they frequently displaced when feeding into the machine to cause failure in production and the waste of materials.I think it should be also useful for label , packaging machines. Maybe the paper machines too.Please advise.https://youtube.com/shorts/NTfujljomtk?feature=share
how tight should eyelets be? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2023, 06:24:00 am
content: A PCB eyelet, like from keystone, when depressed with their punches, how tight should it be in a PCB hole?I did one of the 1/8 inch eyelets using their manual tooling combined with a automatic center punch with an adapter I made. It takes a few pumps but I can flatten them out nicely without tearing.But anyway, if I mark the eyelet, and grab it with a pair of pliers, I can rotate the eyelet without too much effort (a light grip on small channel locks).This seems reasonable to me as there are no serrations or anything like that.Is this correct? Or should a eyelet be anchored more firmly? I don't see any gap when looking at it sideways, and it won't rotate without pliers.I assume they are meant to be soldered down to the PCB. But I am curious about using them on bare PCB to make say a transformer distribution riveted PCB. For instance this would mean that turret terminals can rotate. Not as conveniant as I thought since it requires a board etch in that case. The best I could do assuming its correct to apply epoxy with a syringe before the swageing.I thought maybe its possible to put inner crown washers on both sides of the eyelet so it digs into the substrate a little bit. Is this acceptable practice if you get a longer eyelet?You can use pretty much whatever board thickness you want, which means like a really beefy substrate for magnetic elements, large capacitors, etc. Requires a bit of point to point magic but I like how stiff the substrate is. And since its deformed thick brass, you don't have stupid glue related concerns, vias pulling out, etc. For heavy stuff its just logical.

author: liaifat85
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2023, 07:13:31 am
content: The eyelet should be adequately swaged or pressed into the PCB hole to ensure a secure mechanical connection. It should not rotate easily by hand but might require tools like pliers to rotate. The absence of serrations doesn't necessarily mean it's not properly anchored, but it should have a stable, snug fit in the hole. Eyelets are typically soldered onto the PCB to create a strong electrical and mechanical connection. Soldering secures the eyelet in place and ensures good electrical conductivity.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2023, 07:22:12 am
content: Well I had better results with other eyelets. I think maybe just that particular one was right on the verge of being too big for one of the tools.I also found if i bolt the anvil to a drill press, rather then trying to use it on a block, the results are superior. I think I had insufficient stiffness for the impact base substrate.You can use a wooden table for copperset vias, but for the keystone eyelets you want to use a drill press base or betterthis PCB rivet hardware is awesome BTW. I was struggling to understand and accept the price but its well worth the investment.using this stuff for prototyping is a total game changer
Video guide for LKPF PROTOMAT C30  PCB milling machine - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2023, 07:01:11 pm
content: Hi,Does anyone have an English guide video for use of the above milling machine to make PCBs with?...to use the software with the milling machine?ie, to mill out a single sided PCB from a single sided copper cladded board.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2023, 08:25:05 pm
content: 1) The copper thickness on a PCB (1 oz) is quite thin. So, it needs to be very flat or at least its surface needs to mapped.2) In your other thread, you stated that a 5-day TAT from JLCPBB was too long. When will your inferior, milled PCB be done?