Tricks of the Trade - knowledge for every day life - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2020, 03:57:23 pm
content: Hi Everyone, thought it'd be fun to share some tricks of the trade. What random things have you learned about electronics that help in every day life?I'll get it started with one about batteries. I've only tested this with LTC (lithium thionyl chloride) and alkaline: if you agitate dead ones, you can get a bit more life out of them. Found this by investigating funny results caused by moving batteries during a battery drain test on a home automation product.In every day life, I use this to test the TV remote when it stops working. If tapping it 'fixes it' then it is time to change the batteries. I also use this trick to delay changing the batteries. If it stops working while eating dinner or being lazy then a few taps 'fixes it'. I wonder how often this is the cause of electronics being 'fixed' (and eventually broken) by physical abuse.

author: fcb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2020, 04:11:42 pm
content: I heard that the BBC repair department had a category for repairs calledCBI- stood for Cured By Impact.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2020, 04:31:32 pm
content: On the subject of batteries - temperature. Batteries hate the cold.Some primary cells will seem to have run out completely in the cold even though they are relatively new, let them warm up and they still have all their life remaining. Although I knew this intheoryI first discovered it inpracticeyears ago trying to take astrophotographs on a cold, clear winters night. I left camera and lens to cool down to ambient to avoid heat haze appearing in the photographs from warm air coming off the lens. My  camera died completely despite having a set of batteries in it that were probably good for another year of almost daily use, just because the silver oxide battery got freezing cold.Secondary cells - don't try tochargethem when they are cold. They will accept much less charge when cold than when at room temperature. If you're using a cordless drill or similar out in the cold and the battery dies don't take it indoors and immediately charge it. Let it get up to room temperature first, then charge it. Especially applies to battery packs with a permanent low capacity lockout - like Makita ones, where if the battery fails to accept 'sufficient' charge three times the battery management chip permanently marks the battery 'bad' and disables it.

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2020, 05:36:34 pm
content: Quote from: fcb on October 28, 2020, 04:11:42 pm'cured' seems like an exaggeration. Maybe TIBI would be better: temporarily improved by impact.

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2020, 05:50:31 pm
content: Quote from: Cerebus on October 28, 2020, 04:31:32 pmNice tip about charging, I wonder if any of them consider the temperature before applying the lockout.My last star-gazing attempt was for Perseid meteor shower this August. First year in a while it wasn't smokey in August so we actually had a chance to see them. Forecast said clear skies so we went camping. It got cloudy at dusk and rained on us.

author: nightfire
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2020, 08:33:01 pm
content: Alkaline AA cells: Determine the charge by dropping them on the minus side on a hard table- when full, they will simply fall to the table- empty cells bounce back due to the changes in the chemistry.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2020, 04:56:48 pm
content: Quote from: fcb on October 28, 2020, 04:11:42 pmThe technical term is “percussive maintenance”!

author: cgroen
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 29, 2020, 05:09:09 pm
content: Quote from: nightfire on October 28, 2020, 08:33:01 pmThe first time two of my colleagues told me that trick, I was like "are you serious", I thought they were trying to pull my legs.But sure enough, it works every time! Now I have in turn won a couple of free beers on that account

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2020, 05:16:40 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on October 29, 2020, 04:56:48 pmOrCorrectionByClobbering <- this is more inclusive, as it also applies to fixing PEBKACs as well as equipment failures.

author: richard.cs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 09:56:25 am
content: Quote from: nightfire on October 28, 2020, 08:33:01 pmGas pressure bowing out the bottom and making them bouncy?

author: nightfire
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 11:13:17 am
content: No, bottom is still flat. The internal structure is a bit more fluffy and therefore a bit elastic.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 11:48:38 am
content: Here is one:PCB Cleaner spray (the usual isopropyl and ethanol mix) used to clean flux off your boards is excellent at removing hot glue from pretty much any surface.Just soak the blob of hot glue in the stuff, leave it sit for a few seconds than pry at it a bit while its still wet, the hot glue suddenly looses all adhesion and just falls off, but it doesn't seam to dissolve the hot glue at all so it does not make any mess.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 01:36:12 pm
content: Oh, glue makes me think of another.You can remove dried PVA glues by soaking them in an alkaline solution. Water alone just very slowly wets them, an alkaline environment degrades them. A bit of washing soda (sodium carbonate) in water does the trick. The usual caveats about not doing this if water or alkali are going to damage the glued items applies, obviously. Taught to me by a guitar maker/repairer.

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 03:34:21 pm
content: When I was student, I used to recharge alkaline batteries. Still do this sometimes, though the capacity is poor.

author: Syntax Error
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 04:10:30 pm
content: If you're long sighted, the watch makers trick of wearing two pairs of reading glasses, one in front of the other, means you can solder PTH and SMD parts, without the need of a stereo microscope.Depreciated mouse mats are an excellent source of neoprene sheeting for all kinds of DIY packing and mounting tasks.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 04:23:37 pm
content: When the sticky residue from scotch tape remain on plastic surfaces (old tape tend to this), stick a new piece of scotch tape and pull it off rapidly like removing hair by waxing.To preserve AA, AAA and even button cells, keep them in a cool place like in the refrigerator. They will last much longer than leaving them in a drawer.

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 04:50:15 pm
content: Quote from: cgroen on October 29, 2020, 05:09:09 pmI recall there is a EEVBlog video on this one.Edit: Or it was a Big Clive's video

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 05:13:52 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on October 30, 2020, 04:23:37 pmDo NOT, however, store wrapped in aluminum foil! My wife's grandma did this and couldn't understand why all the batteries were dead.I had to tell them why.Jon

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 06:53:13 pm
content: Of course! I bet he did not know that Al foil is a conductor.

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 07:22:36 pm
content: Quote from: Bud on October 30, 2020, 04:50:15 pmEEVblog #508 - Can You Test Battery Charge By Dropping It?

author: Halcyon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 01:10:34 am
content: Not so much electronics, but Fran's little trick for re-seating self-tapping screws by starting in reverse first until it finds the groove. So simple, yet effective.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 01:19:42 am
content: Quote from: Halcyon on October 31, 2020, 01:10:34 amGood point.Actually, it works for all thread types.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 01:32:34 am
content: Best trick ever, everybody can try it today if you don't believe me:Shout trick or treat to get candies.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 01:37:49 am
content: Quote from: RoGeorge on October 31, 2020, 01:32:34 amOr a free bucket of disinfectant!

author: greenpossum
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 02:08:32 am
content: Used lithium button cells make quick THT LED testers. No current limiting resistor required.

author: KE5FX
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 04:50:05 am
content: Quote from: Berni on October 30, 2020, 11:48:38 amPro Tip #1: Instead of hot glue, use UV-cure adhesive, available at most hardware stores and stores that sell fishing supplies. Apparently it's used for fly tying, or something like that.Then, throw away the LED light that comes with the adhesive and replace it with a 405-nm Chinese laser pointer. These are sold on eBay by the dozen for around US $1 - $3 each, and range from 5x more powerful than they're supposed to be to 20x more powerful. Unlike the LED, the laser can penetrate some distance into a large blob of the material, making it a good substitute for hot glue.Pro Tip #2: Wear a good pair of sunglasses when performing Pro Tip #1.

author: jogri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 11:15:19 am
content: Quote from: KE5FX on October 31, 2020, 04:50:05 amPlease don't do this unless you want to experience what permanent blindness feels like. You have no idea if and by how much sunglasses reduce the intensity, and with 405nm being visible i don't think that sunglasses will block it. If you are stupid enough to stare at the spot long enough you will probably fry your cornea, and for what? A faster way of curing epoxy that sucks because you can only hit a tiny spot? If you want it to cure faster get a UV lamp... More power, and it isn't nearly as stupid as using a laser.Btw, you can get decent laser goggles for 60-70 bucks, and with those you know excatly which part of the spectrum they block to what extend. Using sunglasses because they "block light" is just beyond stupid, those things are absolutely NOT designed to handle extremely strong, collimated light.PS: Rule No.1 of laser safety: If you can see the laser, you done f**ed up.

author: bsfeechannel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 12:24:23 pm
content: Quote from: jogri on October 31, 2020, 11:15:19 amThat would be Pro Tip #3.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 01:18:10 pm
content: Quote from: KE5FX on October 31, 2020, 04:50:05 amI have a bright 18650 cell flashlight with a Uv LED in it. It has plenty of power behind it, enugh to feel a bit of heat from the light if you shine it on your hand.Do have some UV glue to go with it, but the resin used for those resin SLA 3D printers works great as glue too, especialy the transparent kind(That also seams to give best results in the printer).But i still use hot glue quite a bit:Pro tip: You don't need to wait for a hot glue gun to warm up, you can just take a chunk of hot glue, place it on whatever you are glueing and heat it with a hot air rework station for a few seconds until it looks moten. Once i found out how easy hot glue is to remove with PCB cleaner i just started using it even more.Pro tip 2: You can also use a hot ait gun to smooth out a hot glue joint into a nice clean looking smooth blob by simply heating it up after it is glued, the surface tension takes care of the rest. I use this a lot for encapsulating connectors on the end of a cable such as 0.1in pin headers, keeps wires from breaking off over time, makes it look smooth and fancy while giving you a good place to grab it when unplging to avoid pulling on the wires.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 04:02:30 pm
content: Quote from: greenpossum on October 31, 2020, 02:08:32 amThey don’t have to be old. New ones work too!

author: retiredfeline
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 06:40:48 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on October 31, 2020, 04:02:30 pmI think he was just being frugal.

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 09:52:44 pm
content: Quote from: Berni on October 30, 2020, 11:48:38 amThanks for that. Didn't know it and tried it today. Those little two screw terminal blocks do not fit on my breadboards, but they would come in handy if they did. I snipped some jumpers, soldered them on to snipped leads on the terminal block and then "potted" them with hot glue and the hot air gun reflow that you mentioned.Worked well. The hot glue lends some support, insulation and serves as a spacer so the terminal block fits flush with the breadboard.

author: KE5FX
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 02:03:25 am
content: Quote from: jogri on October 31, 2020, 11:15:19 amSunglasses are just fine for this application, thanks. Specular reflections from the beam are uncomfortable to look at, but not particularly hazardous, except possibly to melatonin production.Blue light is actually pretty safe, optically speaking, because it doesn't focus well at the retina. The 10x-overpowered 532 nm green pointers from the same vendors are a very different story. They scare me.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 09:24:43 am
content: Quote from: DrG on October 31, 2020, 09:52:44 pmNo problem.For that application tho there might be a Pro tip 3:You can add kapton tape around the thing to make a mold for the hot glue to flow into. As you heat it up with a hot air station it flows out to fill the mold and make a square shape. Same goes if you are potting something with hot glue that has holes that you don't want it to ooze out of (For example some RJ45 connectors need this or the glue will ooze into the conector and ruin it). Regular scotch tape most likely will not handle the temperatures involved, but can sometimes work for just covering small openings.

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 05:52:34 pm
content: Quote from: Berni on November 01, 2020, 09:24:43 amPumping hot glue into heat shrink works too.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 06:36:26 pm
content: Quote from: Kasper on November 01, 2020, 05:52:34 pmOy! Keep it clean, this is a family friendly forum.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 05:30:28 am
content: Oh one more simple one:PCB cleaner is really good at removing permanent marker marks (The solvent used in permanent markers in generally alcohol based, so no wonder it works so well)

author: sandalcandal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 10:26:57 am
content: Quote from: jogri on October 31, 2020, 11:15:19 amSunglasses are required by law to block UV,in Australia at least. Even most untinted safety glasses (with "O" outdoor marking) have UV blocking in Australia. Another option cheaper than laser googles are welding googles/lenses which are good enough for low power lasers due to their need to block intense UV radiation and visible light from welding.Even the lowest shade 1.2 to only allow 0.0003% 313nm UV but 50% 365nm. A shade 5 typical for gas welding only allows a maximum transmittance of 0.0003% 313nm and 0.3% 365nm. Outdoor untinted safety glasses are a maximum transmittance of 0.25% >380nm. Some spectrums for US ANSI welding googles here:https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5000543/Edit: For reference 0.3% transmittance is an OD of 2.5. The recommended minimum OD For 200mW 380nm continuous is 2.32 = 0.47% transmittance.https://www.lia.org/evaluator/od.phpThat's shade 10 and over for visible.Also not trying to say you shouldn't use appropriate safety gear where required but people are often ignoring readily available and adequate options e.g. using welding googles and instead putting themselves at greater risk. Safety needs to be both accessible and adequate.

author: KE5FX
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 12:54:17 pm
content: Quote from: sandalcandal on November 02, 2020, 10:26:57 amI measured a couple of pairs of sunglasses against the ~405 nm LED that comes with the Bondic adhesive kit.Reference plot (no attenuation):Ray Ban 8301:Serengeti Drivers, sadly no longer sold but probably about 1995 vintage:Normal polycarbonate eyeglasses for comparison:The Ray Bans exhibit about 3% transmittance at 405 nm, good enough for use with a blue laser pointer IMO unless you plan to aim it directly at your eyes. The Serengetis are OK, too. They have the effect of simulating a pointer that actually meets the rated 5 mW limit.Bottom line, if you wouldn't use eye protection with a properly-manufactured and marketed laser pointer -- not saying you shouldn't, but I somehow doubt that many people do -- then you don't need to use anything beyond sunglasses with these overclocked Shenzhen specials.That being said, I'm not crazy about the lack of IR filtering on these lasers. The sunglasses do a good job of cutting down on UV and near-UV transmission, but they aren't as effective at 800 nm. A big chunk of the power output from these pointers is invisible IR, which is arguably more optically-hazardous than the blue light:Not enough to make me reach for a welding helmet, but it is a bit sobering.

author: jogri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 01:17:41 pm
content: Quote from: sandalcandal on November 02, 2020, 10:26:57 amThe problem is that 405 nm doesn't really count as UV, it is just a deep purple... You really have to look at the wavelength, you can't just assume that just because it says UV it will block a laser (and are we talking about UV-A, B or C?). I'm willing to bet that sunglasses don't provide protection against 405nm, just because that would distort the colours. As you have already mentioned, the transmittance increases quite a bit with the wavelength, if you have 50%@365nm, then what do you have at 405? And let me just quote the product safety page of the australian government regarding UV blocking sunglasses:Quote405 > 400 nm... And 5 nm can make quite the difference for laser goggles as they tend to have rather sharp absorption edges.But let's tackle the most important reason why both sunglasses and welding goggles are NOT suitable for lasers:LASERS EMIT COHERENT LIGHTBoth the sun and the arc from a welder won't do that and thus won't even come near the obscene photon/energy densities of a "small" 100-500 mW laser. Combine that with the fact that blue (and probably 405nm) light is by far the most dangerous wavelength for your eyes as it will instantly boil the blood in your retina -> not great. Just to really pronounce the difference between a laser and a "normal lightsource": If i project the full output of my 300 W 30 mm mrad laser at a wall 10m away i will get a spot with a power density of 240 kW/m^2. If i switch on a 300 W lightbulb i will get 1 W/m^2... Same power, yet the laser provides a spot with 10^5 times the power density. The intensity of non-coherent sources correlate with the distance cubed, but lasers don't follow that rule... In that example, the 40mm spot from 10m away just becomes a 130mm spot at 100m.Blue 445 and 405 nm are just on the edge where the lens of the eye is transparent and where light will get focused on the retina-> tiny spot (the diameter is in the um range as the incoming light is coherent [nature never expected such light in the first place]) with extreme energy density that can already be in the kW/cm^2 range with a 5mW laser.UV-A to C (380-100 nm) get blocked by the lens, so they don't get focused and can dispense their energy over a wider area (still NOT recommended) as exposure will lead to cataracts.So should you use welding goggles or sunglasses that where never designed to block neither coherent light nor light over 400 nm to look at a 405 nm laser? Absolutely effing not.Quote from: KE5FX on November 02, 2020, 12:54:17 pmThat's a OD rating of 1.something... Aka: A joke, especially with unknown 100+ mW diodes. You really shouldn't go below 4 or 5.(Sorry for the rant, but saying that it is safe to look at a laser with anything other than proper laser goggles just doesn't sit well with me)

author: KE5FX
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 01:45:32 pm
content: Quote from: jogri on November 02, 2020, 01:17:41 pmHow is it a joke? The data shows that sunglasses have the effect of attenuating the overpowered laser pointer output to levels that international regulatory agencies have deemed acceptable for use without specialized eye protection. Your argument is evidently with those agencies, not with me.If there's a villain here, it's the shady Chinese vendors who are selling hazardous items for $3 each on eBay. I can measure the power and spectral output from these lasers and treat them accordingly, but most of their customers can't or won't do that. I'm not complaining -- hey, cheap lasers are cool! -- but I wouldn't be surprised if governments step in at some point and ruin the fun.QuoteI hear you, but the fact is, there are just not a lot of people walking around with eye damage from indirect viewing of laser pointer output without $100 goggles. Either everyone else is a reckless moron, or you're overly risk-averse.(Although, to be honest, the more I think about that IR line, the more I'm tempted to swap out the RayBans for my Thor Labs safety glasses that make everything look like it's being viewed through the atmosphere of Venus. They are rated OD 4 at 808 nm, no problem there.)

author: richard.cs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 02:17:50 pm
content: Quote from: jogri on November 02, 2020, 01:17:41 pmI am fairly sure the darker arc welding lenses would be "safe". A shade 14 has a visible-band transmission of at most 0.0012%, so min OD 4.9 which is probably OK, but note that it is not nearly so attenuating in infrared (assuming those are percentages in that column it's OD 2.5). The doubling lasers without IR filters are scary.https://qph.fs.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-63d2b2785a54da76ef6f8efae0ba72e6-cIt's still a crap idea, welding goggles this dark are as good as a blindfold unless you are outdoors in full sunlight.Quote from: jogri on November 02, 2020, 01:17:41 pmI am inclined to agree.Quote from: KE5FX on November 02, 2020, 01:45:32 pmOf course you unlike many people seem to have the ability to measure the OD of your pair of sunglasses. Saying "I've measured these specific sunglasses and I am comfortable with their attenuation" is very different from other people pulling a random pair out of the drawer and trusting them.

author: sandalcandal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 02:19:22 pm
content: Quote from: jogri on November 02, 2020, 01:17:41 pmThe suggestion is the possibility of using broadband protection with safety glasses and welding goggles for general radiation protection so sharp transmittance edges on laser goggles is irrelevant.The required OD 2.32 at the end of my post is using a laser protection guideline so it is considering coherent light specifically at 405nm CW and the shade 10 is 2.64 OD over visible and 2.80 OD above 365nm. 2.64 OD at x wavelength is 2.64 OD at x wavelength regardless if sharp transmittance materials are used.I appreciate your concerns though. Laser safety goggles are the go for laser safety. Particularly for anything substantial (Class 3B). I've done research in photonics labs with class 4 lasers as a student.

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 02:23:13 pm
content: Drill a small hole in a Ping-Pong ball to make a good LED light diffuser.

author: jogri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 02:41:59 pm
content: Quote from: KE5FX on November 02, 2020, 01:45:32 pmWhere did you get those facts? Do you mean that it is eye safe because the output is less than 5 mW when it reaches the eye? that number is only valid for IR filtered 532nm green lasers, a 5 mW 405 is a class 3 laser... You can't just assume that just because the output is lower than x mW it has to be safe... The rating heavily depends on the wavelength:Quote from: KE5FX on November 02, 2020, 01:45:32 pmHow do you know that? I know a couple of guys with permanent eye damage from a laser, the damage also depends on the wavelength... It can either fry your lens or retina, the guys i know screwed around with 500 mW lasers and got a couple of dark spots in their vision. You only notice that sort of thing when you are staring at a white paper.And what IR line (your post has no pics)? A 405 nm diode laser shouldn't have a 808 nm line, those kind of diodes are only used in green laser pointers to excite the NdYAG crystal that emit at 1064.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 02:49:58 pm
content: On cleaning permanent marker off of things.Alcohol usually does the trick, but sometimes there will still be a residual shadow left after the bulk of the ink is gone. I've successfully removed the shadows, without any apparent damage to the surface, by using a melamine sponge (sometimes sold as 'magic eraser' sponges or under a very similar name) with a little alcohol.I've done this on second hand test equipment, that had asset numbers or department names in permanent marker, and I couldn't tell you now where the markings were from examining the kit as it is now.[Sorry, I realise this has nothing to do with quibbling about 'laser' safety.]

author: Ranayna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 02:55:14 pm
content: Quote from: Halcyon on October 31, 2020, 01:10:34 amAt some point this became intuitive for me. I dont know if someone showed this to me or if i figured it out myself. But i remember several messes i made with self tappers in cheap plasticFor similar reasons i also try to organise unscrewed self tappers in a way to be able to put them back into the same hole they came from. Especially cheap screws are so inconsistent that even if you hit the groove, you still do damage with another screw.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 02:57:16 pm
content: A suggestion.I was pleased to see this topic. A discussion that gradually gathered a collection of 'tips and tricks' sounded like an excellent thing. I could see how it might, in time to come, form the basis of a very useful repository of knowledge.It seems to have been taken over for yet another disputation between the'safety zealots'and the'safety libertines'. I wonder if the members of both groups would consider:1) Starting a new topic to debate the safety issues in, and having done so, taking that discussion there.2) Once they have done that, deleting their own contributions on the subject fromthistopic to preserve its nature as a helpful repository.Thank you for your consideration.

author: richard.cs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 03:02:24 pm
content: Quote from: Cerebus on November 02, 2020, 02:49:58 pmI am familiar with the residual shadow problem, but not the 'magic eraser' - I shall have to try it.Quote from: Ranayna on November 02, 2020, 02:55:14 pmSame, I do this, but I can't remember when I started. And not just on self tappers either, any awkward screw that "wants" to cross-thread.

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 03:10:35 pm
content: There may be a few people who still don't know this oneUse your digital camera (night setting if you have it), to see if your IR LED (remotes etc...) is working.

author: DenzilPenberthy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 03:35:18 pm
content: You can buy expensive tools for removing circular pins from connector shells. Like this:https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/insertion-extraction-tools/1811460/Often you can use a bootlace ferrule to do the same job for free.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 03:52:36 pm
content: bicarbonate of soda/baking soda and super glue make an instant drying hole filler

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 04:35:36 pm
content: Quote from: themadhippy on November 02, 2020, 03:52:36 pmPut the powder in the hole first, then drip superglue on, don't try and make a paste and push the paste in, it sets in seconds. Also it getsHOT!.

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 04:48:06 pm
content: Quote from: DenzilPenberthy on November 02, 2020, 03:35:18 pmBrings me back to the 'good old days' when I worked in avionic comms and spent a few days leaning into an ESS chamber replacing connectors.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 06:14:27 pm
content: Quote from: DenzilPenberthy on November 02, 2020, 03:35:18 pmNice one.I need to try that on molex MiniFit connectors sometime.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 06:49:33 pm
content: Quote from: Berni on November 02, 2020, 06:14:27 pmSomething that might be worth trying for small pins are the desoldering tools sold as cheap kits in all the usual places. Basically hollow stainless steel tubes with handles.Like these:

author: duckduck
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 09:51:24 pm
content: Quote from: jogri on October 31, 2020, 11:15:19 amRule #4: Do not look into laser with remaining eye.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 10:50:03 pm
content: Quote from: DenzilPenberthy on November 02, 2020, 03:35:18 pmOr for a couple bucks get a kit like this. Super handy.https://www.ebay.ca/itm/18x-CAR-Terminal-Removal-Tool-Kit-Wiring-connector-Pin-Release-Extractor-Puller/254255930284?hash=item3b32d59bac:g:7W4AAOSwxeVc-LGL

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 12:20:57 am
content: Quote from: Berni on November 02, 2020, 06:14:27 pmwon't work, you need two thin narrow blades. I've bend and ground a piece of stainless TIG wire in pinch, but afair the real thing isn't that expensive but it is a bit fragile

author: KE5FX
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 01:49:23 am
content: Quote from: jogri on November 02, 2020, 02:41:59 pmIt depends on what you call "eye safe." If you aim a sketchy Chinese laser pointer directly into your unprotected eye, you're probably signing up for the white-cane brigade. I don't know anyone who would do that on purpose. So don't look directly into a 405-nm laser pointer, whether from China or otherwise. Based on actual measurements, I consider sunglasses to be adequate protection for short-term indirect viewing at 405 nm.QuoteThere are millions of laser pointers out there, many of them with completely-bogus specifications. If indirect exposure were a widespread problem, we'd know by now.QuoteWith a 405-nm pointer, the main hazard is not to the retina unless you look directly into the laser aperture, which we've already agreed to refrain from doing. The human eye doesn't focus well at that wavelength, and the lens is going to absorb a lot of the energy. As a result, longer-term exposure can be expected to cause cataracts. So don't do that, either. Dry your glue and move on.QuoteThere are thumbnails in my earlier post from yesterday showing the spectra of both the LED that comes with the adhesive kit and the laser. Are they not showing up?I didn't know the IR line was there myself until your post prompted me to measure it, so thanks for that.I was ass-u-ming that the pointers used fundamental-mode diodes made with GaN or some other wide-bandgap material. Wikipedia says that they can be built with GaAs IR diodes at 808 nm that are frequency-doubled to 404 nm, and that indeed appears to be how these pointers work.Unfiltered 532-nm pointers areconsidered especially hazardousbecause of their invisible IR emission. At 532 nm the beam is easy to see and avoid, but at 405 nm the apparent brightness is way down, making IR exposure more likely. It's a valid concern, given the combination of out-of-spec power output and inadequate or nonexistent IR filtering, and one I wasn't aware of.Anyway, Cerberus is right, this is both off-topic for the thread and interesting enough for its own thread. I won't post any further to this one, but if it's possible for a mod to move the messages to their own thread, that would be great.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 05:35:47 am
content: When dismantling a small gadget with possibly springy things inside, like spring, small screws or nuts that may jump/shoot across the room and probably gone forever.I used a medium sized clear transparent plastic bag, cut two holes that big enough but not too loose for my two hands to slip in quite snugly, and enough space for some small hand tools inside the plastic to do the tear down work.That container will catch all tiny parts inside, rather than cursing and crawling on the floor hunting down for the tiny parts, really hate that.

author: aargee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 06:06:09 am
content: To clean up silicone matting or objects? (Those things can collect dust and grot!)Use hand sanitiser - the alcoholic type - rub it all over the surface and rinse off in water.It works really well on some silicone workbench mats I have here.A good COVID19 'by-process'. :-)

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 06:13:15 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on November 03, 2020, 05:35:47 amNice trickTho its more of a problem that i don't know when to use it. Often i have no idea what is inside whatever i am taking apart, so the moment when something goes sproiiiing and flies off god knows where is a surprise moment, only then realizing i should have been a lot more careful with how i take it apart. I just try to clean up the workbench area a bit before taking apart more delicate things to avoid tiny parts getting lost in the other crap.Related to taking stuff apart, my tip is to keep screws and parts in sorting boxes like these:When taking the thing apart i put screws into compartments in the left to right order. That way when i am putting it back together i start taking screws from boxes in reverse order, making it easier to keep track of what screw goes where, avoid digging trough screws to find the same ones and makes more easily to see if i missed a screw.It also helps keep the screws from getting lost on longer term repairs where a piece of test gear might sit on the bench in parts while i wait for some replacement part to arrive or is waiting for my patience to recharge in order put in more futile hours of banging my head while trying to get the damn thing working.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 06:45:17 am
content: Bottles, for lubricant.As SWMBO sometimes does dying her hair, the hair dye bottle is actually really soft, squishy and presumably "chemically inert", at least for synthetic oil that I use.The one in photo probably more than a decade old and doesn't show any deformation or affected chemically.As it has cap (red one in picture), that is really handy in stopping the "oil from crawling out" (google for it) that prevents the bottle outer surface becomes oily and slippery, that will tainted the finger/hand that was holding it.Also small solder flux dispenser bottle as it has tiny metal tip, really handy for precision lubrication, as we can pin point accurately and lubricate at the tiny area, like at the tip of small nut or tiny hinge and etc.As the bigger one will definitely spill the lubricant all over the place as its harder to control the flow, even as slow as tiny sipping action, as sometimes, even a single drop is too much.

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2021, 07:56:44 pm
content: Had a chance to test this one the other day.Broke a knob off of a keyboard leg (broken on the left, the good one in the center, and a binder clip on the right).Removed the two 'arms' of a binder clip - they easily come out. Replaced each keyboard leg with the binder clip arms.So far, this works really well!

author: RJSV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2021, 04:33:06 am
content: Our mini computer lab had a cluster of older model terminals (screen and keyboard with discrete local processor). With arrival, of an in-house SERVICE ENGINEER, the software person watched:The service guy proceeded, soberly, to CLOBBER THE HELL out of the terminal side sheet metal. Man those 1972 vintage units used, like 1 cm thick steel, so the SERVICE PRO guy had to really wallop a couple smacks.As expected, I watched in amusement as the watching PROGRAMMER started to 'titter', then a full on belly-laugh.Felt kinda like watching a RODEO cow wrangler.

author: thermistor-guy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2021, 06:13:11 am
content: Quote from: Kasper on October 28, 2020, 03:57:23 pmFound something recently.While removing some old thermal paste from a graphics card, the Arctic Clean (1 & 2) I was using also removed some permanent marker (Sharpie) lines. These were lines I'd drawn on a heat sink as an alignment aid.Next time I need to remove "permanent" marker from metalwork, I'll try the Arctic Clean again.

author: Melt-O-Tronic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2021, 03:33:00 pm
content: The carrier solvent in most permanent marker inks is acetone. Therefore, an acetone rub is usually the most effective means of removing these marks. Just consider the base material that you're cleaning when choosing.

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2021, 03:54:25 am
content: Quote from: Melt-O-Tronic on March 26, 2021, 03:33:00 pmYep, I used to use ferric chloride to etch the date back on a certain type of US 5C. The dates were at a high point for wear and "dateless" nickels of this type were common. You could, however, etch the date using ferric chloride. To keep the ferric chloride right around the date area, I would use a permanent marker to make a border. After the date was revealed, acetone would remove the marker.Now, an etched date was certainly detectable and not as valuable as one that had the normal visible date, but they were still collectible.Not sure this counts as "tools of the trade" though

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2021, 04:35:31 pm
content: Quote from: Cerebus on October 28, 2020, 04:31:32 pmThat kind of technology is evil... I prefer to be the judge of when the battery is no longer "good enough", not some dumb chip...

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2021, 04:38:45 pm
content: Quote from: thermistor-guy on March 22, 2021, 06:13:11 amA product called "Goof Off" is pretty good for this - it is formulated pretty cleverly, strong enough to dissolve stuff, but mild enough to not be too destructive. I reach for it when IPA is just not working...

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2021, 11:00:37 pm
content: I was thinking about heat shrink tubing today....here are two ways I use it without a heat gun.1. Ever reach into the drawer (or manicure bag) and stab yourself with surgical scissors? I little bit of heat shrink tubing keeps the scissors safely closed until you want to open them.2. I have a couple of those third hand thingies. On one, the alligator clip ends close very tightly...more than they need to when I am holding a piece of wire with softer insulation, for example. Sliding a couple of pieces of shrink tubing over the ends fixes this nicely. Still grips well, but not with the sharp points. I cut the tubing longer than needed so that they have handles for easy removal.No need to mess with electrical tape.

author: tpowell1830
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2021, 12:18:58 am
content: 1.) When you drop a small component on the floor, use a flashlight to find said part by lying the flashlight/torch so that the beam is horizontal to the floor. if you place the flashlight directly on the floor in this manner, it causes large shadows that will allow easier spotting of any irregularities on the floor.This method, of course only works with smooth floors, and not for carpeted floors.2.) This may be elementary to most experienced solderers, but always add a blob of fresh clean solder to your tip when done soldering. this keeps the tip from tarnishing and leaves a nice tinned coating to protect the tip.

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2021, 12:28:04 am
content: Quote from: tpowell1830 on May 04, 2021, 12:18:58 amI am reasonably certain that the carpet around my work area has a number of micro worm holes with an affinity to any smt components in the area. The vacuum cleaner, on the other hand, has the astounding capability to reverse the micro black holes, retrieve the part, only to have it disappear once again into a dust dimension. I believe that further investigation is warranted.

author: tpowell1830
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2021, 12:37:27 am
content: Quote from: DrG on May 04, 2021, 12:28:04 amI also had my workbench in a carpeted bedroom and can attest to this observation to be true, however, not to be thwarted, I found a thick vinyl mat and placed my work area and bench on said mat. However, the impact of said small components with the mat would also send the parts into a blackhole, never to be seen again...

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2021, 12:53:10 am
content: You'll find that SMD part elasticity, and hence how far they will fly, increases in direct proportion to the cost of the part. I've never lost a single MMBT3904 transistor in SOT-23-3 (a few pence worth, if that) but last week an AD5620 DAC (£5 worth) in exactly the same sized SOT-23-6 package managed to fly 6 feet and take 20 minutes to find.

author: Ground_Loop
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2021, 03:24:07 am
content: The hook on the end of a tape measure is intentionally loose. It moves exactly the thickness of the hook to make accurate inside and outside measurements.Holding down the space bar on an iPhone puts the cursor in mouse mode. No need to back up for corrections.

author: KE5FX
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2021, 10:35:22 pm
content: Quote from: Ground_Loop on May 04, 2021, 03:24:07 amInteresting, I'd never noticed that before. However, tapping anywhere in the text control also relocates the cursor immediately, so I'm not sure what it does for me. Is there some hidden advantage to 'mouse mode'?

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2021, 05:03:26 am
content: Quote from: KE5FX on May 04, 2021, 10:35:22 pmYes that my fingers are too fat to actually tap in the right place on the screen reliably, so it always ends up off by a character or two.Its the one advantage that resistive touchscreens had, you could use your fingernail to precisely click where you want.

author: Ranayna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2021, 07:35:18 am
content: That spacebar thing changed the way i use my iOS devices massivly. I always hated typing on those, because i make really frequent small typoes most of the time.If i notice immediatly, i just back up, but later corrections where massively annoying. While you can tap to move the cursor, especially on my iPhone 6s i only ever manage to move the cursor to the beginning or end of a word.Holding space then allows me to move just to that stupid letter i accidentally insertedI still do not like typing on the touchscreen, but at least it's bearable now for me.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2021, 08:15:56 am
content: If you accidently get a large blob of hot glue on your skin, immediately rub it with your finger and spread it as thin as possible as quickly as possible.If you spread it out it will instantly lose all its heat and solidify, if you do nothing it will sit there and burn the small area of skin it's in contact with.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2021, 01:35:56 pm
content: Quote from: Ranayna on May 05, 2021, 07:35:18 amI have a small Bluetooth keyboard in my bag, which I fish out if I need to type more than 5 words.

author: duckduck
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2021, 06:16:43 pm
content: This post is a two-fer:Thing one: buy some empty nail polish containers (with the ball bearing). Spray your Deoxit in one of them (using the tube, duh). Now you can paint on a wee bit of Deoxit if you just want a drop for the TV remote. This prevents the "press a little.... juuuuust a liiiiiiiitle harder... *&^%*&^%*! *&^!!!" problem. A single can now lasts me over a year (unless I buy something used off of ebay). Actual item photographed. PP3 for scale. Trade trick tip: screw the top back oneverytime, otherwise you are sure to knock the whole thing on the floor which will make the room smell nice and you all tingly in the head but you won't find that ball bearing until you vacuum.Thing two: stop #)@(|^@ around with firing up the Fluke, digging in the bucket o' probes until you assemble a matching set (close enough), and then chasing a tiny, round battery 'round the desk with two needles until you can pin down than son of a golden dragon. Buy a battery tester. Hell, buy three of them - briefcase, purse, glove box, boot, basement freezer, shed, anniversary gift - you get the idea. I got one off of AliExpress for USD1.45 delivered to my nest. I paid the extra USD0.36 for the LCD upgrade. Order now and you'll be thanking yourself next January when they arrive. Trade trick tip: grease the track so that the slidey-bit slides smooth. Otherwise the Fluke is less frustrating. Stock photo attached. Typically they don't display a voltage unless a battery is connected. Should I cross post this in the "Stock image fails" thread or in the "over-unity believer shaming" thread?

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2021, 11:40:29 pm
content: Not sure that this is a good tip, but.... There was a thread about the 'best' non-metal screwdriver or something like that. I do have a small plastic screwdriver for some things (shown in the pic). Today, I was using a Dremel and also some Q-tips for something and I was about to throw the Q-tips away when, for reasons unknown to me, I thought about that thread. So I made these wooden screwdrivers on the Dremel in about 10 minutes and then sprayed them with lacquer. I have no idea f they will last, but, hey...I got time...and lots of Q-tips

author: tpowell1830
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2021, 02:47:37 am
content: When etching a copper PCB at home using ferric chloride, there are a few helpful steps to do in the process.Step 1: Use a fine steel wool to clean the copper before transferring the mask.Step 2: Transfer the mask and place the board to be etched and the ferric chloride in a ziplock bag and seal it. Make sure to use enough ferric chloride. Wear gloves.Step 3: Use aluminum foil to cover the sink area so in case of a few drops of ferric chloride dripping, you can save from cleaning it off the sinkStep 4: Turn on the hot water from the tap/faucet and hold the ziplock bag with contents under the hot water stream. Roll the the bag over and over under stream until etching is complete.Step 5: Use flat pan or shallow plastic bowl with alcohol to lay board in after removing from bag of ferric chloride. Pour ferric chloride back into reusable container. Throw aluminum foil into garbage or recycle. Cleanup.Edit: I usually solder a layer to all exposed copper after etching.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2021, 08:55:16 am
content: With the small nail varnish bottles, they also are great for keeping silicone oil in, which is used as a screen protector bubble repair, by simply dabbing a bit by the bubble, which will fill the bubble up again.Yes they are useful, but the nail varnish by itself is useful as well, I use it as marking for cables, where you put a few dots of different colour at both ends to identify multiple cores of the same colour. Also useful to lock screws and nuts, especially small ones, and for plastic threads that are stripped apply a drop to the hole, and place a small piece of PVC strip that fits the hole in, to make it full. Then close up and leave. Does not work on styrene enclosures, but will fix cracks in them well.Clothes hangers are very useful as well, the plastic type is great for test lead hangers, and the wire type is good to make assorted holders for one off jobs, like holding epoxy in alignment till it cures. Plastic ear buds can also have a second life if you cut the ends off, and use the shaft to fill in a hole where the original self tapping screw has stripped the thread, it is soft enough to deform and fill the hole.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2021, 02:01:25 pm
content: If the only heat-shrink you have is a little too small for what you need.Get two tiny screwdrivers and insert both shafts through the heat-shrink. You can now force them apart to stretch the heat-shink a bit, 10-50% depending on type. It tends to return to the original size after a min or two, but long enough to get it over the joint.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2021, 06:03:24 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on December 16, 2021, 02:01:25 pmI initially read that as heatsinkinstead of heatshrink."Stretchingthe heatsink? With screwdrivers! Who is this guy?"

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2021, 06:15:27 pm
content: Quote from: Cerebus on December 16, 2021, 06:03:24 pmI read the same at first and was just as confused.But yeah this is a very useful trick, surprising how far heatshrink can be stretched out beforehand. The other way i do this is slipping it over needlenosed pliers and pulling the pliers open. This works particularly well for when you just need to quickly open up one end of it to help with getting it over something.

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 16, 2021, 06:39:04 pm
content: Quote from: Berni on December 16, 2021, 06:15:27 pmHa - I three read it as 'heatsink'. At first I was picturing those circular accordion-style ones for things like TO-5 style transistor packages, but then reread the post and realized my mistake. I never thought of using screwdrivers, buy also use the 'expand it with pliers' trick occasionally. I like the pliers because they seem more controllable to me, but will remember the screwdrivers for use in a pinch going forward.-Pat

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2021, 12:56:05 pm
content: haha, point taken, i edited post to add a hyphen and make it clearerYeah, pliers work too, but the length you can stretch is limited

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2021, 01:41:42 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on December 21, 2021, 12:56:05 pmI think that this is one of the occasions where the readers have to take the blame for mental sloppiness, not the writer for careless presentation.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2021, 07:49:19 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on December 21, 2021, 12:56:05 pmI agree with Cerebus: your original spelling was totally fine.

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 21, 2021, 08:09:21 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on December 21, 2021, 07:49:19 pmTrue - it was more of a reception issue than a transmitting one, though I generally refer to the tubing as 'heat shrink' and the little metal radiator things as 'heatsinks', so my inclination is to read a long word beginning with 'heats' and ending with 'ink' as heatsink. In the grand scheme of things, it was amusing.-Pat

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2021, 08:38:13 pm
content: Quote from: Cubdriver on December 21, 2021, 08:09:21 pmI just tried saying a sentence out loud with "the irradiated polyolefin tubing that contracts when heated" in it, and speaking I say "heatshrink", all one word. It's one of those occasions where I would accept any of "heat shrink", "heat-shrink" or "heatshrink" as legitimate orthography. If I was writing a style guide I'd probably opt for the hyphenated version for clarity, purely based on our experiences here. Still, the original brain-fart gave me a giggle, and that's the best you can ask for, most days.

author: IDEngineer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2021, 09:46:40 pm
content: One of my most important "tricks of the trade":The correct version of the tool you need is expensive for a reason. Buy it.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2021, 06:04:36 am
content: Quote from: IDEngineer on December 21, 2021, 09:46:40 pmYeah one always has to learn from personal experience that buying cheep tools can end up more expensive in the end... since that way you end up buying the cheep AND expensive tool before getting the job done.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2021, 06:26:47 am
content: He's a tip for getting PCB and stencil alignment when applying SMT paste to boards at home.When doing single PCBs one at a timeGet a non-framed stencil, they often come with cardboard on each side.Use double sided tape to attach 5 PCBs in the center of the cardboard in a + pattern, do not use tape for the middle one so that is removable, you will paste this one.You are effectively blocking the center PCB in with a taped down PCB on each side so it cannot move.Now align the stencil and tape that down along the top edge.Now you can paste a PCB, hinge the stencil up, remove the pcb and place a new one in its place. If you're careful the alignment will stay the same.When doing an entire panel of boardsIt's easier to just put some 3mm alignment holes on both the PCB panel waste area and the stencil.Then you can put some wood underneath and drill two holes into the wood using the PCB holes to get them in the right place.Then you can use some drill bits as alignment pins through the stencil, pcb and wood. That will hold it all alignment while pasting.

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 07:12:38 pm
content: Quote from: IDEngineer on December 21, 2021, 09:46:40 pmI'm slowly getting to the point where my time has enough value to be worth spending more on tools if they save me time but generally I'm cheap and it seems ok. Most of my tool purchases though are for woodworking and other home reno type stuff.Concrete drills however are worth extra money. My $200 dewalt POS could not get through some old concrete. My neighbor recognized the sound of the crappy drill and brought me his. That went through easily.Soldering iron also seems worth an extra bit of money to get a good one. I've had my iron and its 1 tip for almost 20 years and quality makes a big difference.Ironically my soldering oven was as cheap as can be: $20 IR toaster oven bought used and it seems fine.

author: IDEngineer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 08:19:50 pm
content: You have to be careful with tools. I go cheap for tools with few or zero moving parts. Harbor Freight is a great source for hammers, open end wrenches, pry bars, screwdrivers, etc. But a HF torque wrench actually damaged something once so I don't buy anything considered "precision" there.The one exception is gas engines and engine-powered tools. The Chinese have reached incredible reliability with their gas engines. I have a HF power washer with a 4-stroke engine that we bought ~15 years ago. It gets used once per year for a specific application for a few hours. Otherwise, it's stored drained of fuel in both tank and carb. Every year that sucker starts on thevery first pullafter I fill its tank with gas. Remarkable.I also have one of their 2KW inverter generators. Runs flawlessly for 75% less than the near-identical Honda model.And you can't beat HF's el-cheapo DMM's. Every home should have one, if only so when your friend calls you for advice you can save yourself a trip by letting them be your remote eyes and hands. "Now put the red probehere, and the black probethere... what does it read?" I collect those things using their "Free with any purchase" coupons and give them away to friends like candy.Otherwise, I generally lean toward the better end of the quality spectrum. It just seems to pay off. Stuff just "feels right" and "works right" and you get the job done faster so you can get back to real work.

author: Sal Ammoniac
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 09:47:21 pm
content: Quote from: DrG on March 27, 2021, 03:54:25 amThe same technique is used to reveal the serial number on guns where the number has been filed down.

author: VK3DRB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 10:29:48 pm
content: Best thing I learnt in electronics that helps with everyday life is CONTROL THEORY. It is part of all engineering degrees and it is arguably the most useful subject of all. We use it in electronics design, but control theory maps out to most things we do in life. During COVID, applying control theory increased my wealth significantly. Control theory has helped me understand the spread of the virus and predict the lock downs a lot better than most people. It is unfortunate that most politicians and their advisers in Australia do not apply control theory to their decision making. In fact there are instances where they clearly have demonstrated they do not understand it.I don't overreact to negative feedback, and positive feedback is neither here nor there.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 10:45:42 pm
content: Don't know if it's already on here, but turning a can of compressed air upside down turns it into a handy freeze spray for detecting faulty components.

author: IDEngineer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 11:04:21 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on December 23, 2021, 10:45:42 pmREALLY? That could be exceptionally useful....Escaping (really, expanding) gas drops in temperature, of course, but I didn't know that inverting the can would make a difference. Must try that immediately!

author: AlfBaz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 11:29:04 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on December 23, 2021, 10:45:42 pmLOL.Just saw this this thread and as I was reading through it I thought to myself no one's mentioned the upside down can trick yet, I'll add it.Just to add to that, freeze spray upside down can be used as compressed air

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 11:42:01 pm
content: Quote from: IDEngineer on December 23, 2021, 11:04:21 pmwhen you invert it it spray liquid instead of gas, so it evaporates on the part instead of in the can

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2021, 12:01:47 am
content: Quote from: langwadt on December 23, 2021, 11:42:01 pmI've done this with 'air duster' cans marketed for cleaning computers. People were using them to get high so they added a noxious scent to it. That scent lasts a long time, transfers from surface to surface and tastes bad.I know we are not supposed to taste our electronics. I am pretty clean and fairly neurotic about washing my hands when working with electronics but somehow it got passed my defenses.

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2021, 12:04:49 am
content: Quote from: Kasper on December 24, 2021, 12:01:47 amFor the record, I did not huff it. I live in BC, we have much better stuff to puff out here.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2021, 11:31:02 am
content: Just be aware that a small number of airdusters/compressed air cans use a different feed system inside, which does not work to get freeze spray when upside down.(Same tech used in those spray paint cans that can spray upside down.)

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2021, 03:27:32 pm
content: In the vein of "knowledge for everyday life":When making flaky pastry, after combining the fat and the flour, chill the combined fat and flour mixture with the mixing bowlandthe water you're going to add to it in the fridge for an hour before moving on to the final mixing stage. This minimises the formation of gluten when you wet the flour and makes for the lightest, crumbliest pastry.(Not too hard to guess whatI'mspending my Christmas Eve doing.)

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2021, 04:00:33 pm
content: There’s a reason some recipes specify using ice water.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2021, 05:39:01 pm
content: At the moment I'm more minded to be following the medieval recipe for meringue that I once encountered "Beat the egg whites until you have exhausted three servants". In this case the bit I'm minded to be following is the "having servants" bit. [Flops onto sofa.]

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2021, 02:07:39 am
content: Quote from: Kasper on December 24, 2021, 12:01:47 amthe nonflammable kinds used to be (and some still is I think) R134A, the refrigerant they are facing out because it is 1500 times worse than CO2

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2022, 09:16:01 am
content: Here is another trick i use freeze spray for: Recharging cans that ran out of air only.We use various canned stuff stuff like PCB Cleaner or WD40, but we all know when the you run out of air so the can won't spray but you can clearly hear the liquid still inside. What i do is stick the straw of the freeze spray into the other can (Sometimes it just fits, something it needs to be held against it) then press down on the freeze spray, then the empty can. This starts transferring the freeze spray over into the empty can, all you need is to hold it for a few seconds. Now that can of WD40 sprays like new again.I tried this before with an air compressor, and it does work too, but since the air can't be liquefied in there means that you get a lot less gas volume to fit so the air runs out again fairly quick.Quote from: langwadt on December 31, 2021, 02:07:39 amYeah the KontaktChemie freeze spray had quietly changed at one point. Branding it as a new improved formula when in actuality they just got banned from using the older refrigerant gas. The advertised cooling temperature also changed slightly, you can use that to find what refrigerant boils at that point at sea level.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2022, 09:00:41 pm
content: careful with freeze spray I broke precision op amps before with condensation. You need a dry environment don't do it when its humid.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2022, 11:18:33 am
content: You can push the ground spring attachment onto the end of the scope probe with a wire trapped under it. Very useful when you want to probe something that needs a very short GND connection and you need it to be soldered for 'hands free'.

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2022, 02:06:49 pm
content: Real and Imaginarywhich is whichhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/Metrix-MTX3291-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B01M61RW39especially in purchasing

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2022, 09:43:07 pm
content: Quote from: Cerebus on November 02, 2020, 04:35:36 pmJust came across a video that reminded me of this one. They do a bit of destructive testing, repair stripped head of screw and even mold a wrench.Another trick here is to use WD-40 as a mold release spray.Super Glue and Baking soda! Pour Glue on Baking soda and Amaze With Results

author: xmris
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2022, 10:47:44 am
content: Make bases for small bottles - like flux/lubricants - using foam packaging sheets.It will keep them stable and no more mess on your workbench

author: eti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 07:43:28 am
content: Always *twist* a stranded wire and then solder saturate it into a solid end (and then clean off any flux) and then cut it flush and clean at the tip, before screwing into a terminal block. If possible use captive terminal types, the ones with the ridged moving flat clamp which rides up and down with the screw and applies even pressure across the wire end, otherwise excess tightening causes screw-shaped pits in the wire end, and if it’s not been soldered as above, you get little copper strand ends falling out everywhere, which not only means short circuit risk but means the cross-sectional amperage rating of the end has decreased.

author: eti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 07:52:25 am
content: Especially pertinent to consumer goods servicing:ALWAYS ALWAYS thoroughly clean a piece of equipment before returning it to the customer. It’s a matter of pride in one’s work, and shows the customer you pay attention to the little details. We used to use “Ambersil” foaming cleaner to give our TVs a good scrubbing of tar and grime, before sending them back into their dirty homes to pick up a fresh lot. 😄If your a subscriber to “Mr Carlson’s Lab” on Patreon, he has an excellent video on how to run a repair business, and his ethics PRECISELY align with mine.

author: KE5FX
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 08:25:44 am
content: Quote from: eti on December 11, 2022, 07:43:28 amThe problem with that is that solder will cold-flow, potentially enough to loosen the connection over time. When clamping stranded wire into a terminal block or wrapping it around a screw terminal, I prefer to twist the strands together and then apply solder only to the end of the wire, using just enough to keep it from fraying. Haven't had trouble with the strands breaking, myself.

author: eti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 08:42:18 am
content: Quote from: KE5FX on December 11, 2022, 08:25:44 amGood point re only the end. But the gold standard of stranded wire termination for terminal block insertion is crimp ferrules

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 09:54:29 am
content: Quote from: EEVblog on December 23, 2021, 10:45:42 pmAnd often vice-versa- can of freezer upside down can give an air blast, depends on type though

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 09:59:09 am
content: 1mm pitch ribbon cable crimps nicely into RJ45 and RJ11 connectors - handy if you need some short, very flexible ethernet cables.

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 11:20:17 am
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on December 11, 2022, 09:59:09 amI wonder about impedance matching. I didn't try this with ethernet, but I tried to replace a broken usb mouse wire with a few separate wires. It worked very badly. I guess it depends on the length and speed.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 11:27:43 am
content: When cutting the insulation off multi-core cable using many cuts with side-cutters you will sometimes accidently cut or nick one of the inner wires.To avoid this, use the side cutters to pinch some of the insulation, then rotate the cutters outwards before actually cutting it.By doing this rotation you will ensure the inner wires are not between your sider cutter blades.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 02:57:26 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on December 11, 2022, 11:27:43 amThis one could do with a video, lol

author: eti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2022, 01:20:22 am
content: Quote from: Psi on December 11, 2022, 11:27:43 amThis is very common yeah. I learnt this early on, else one finds one’s cable shrinking inch by inch with every failed attempt ^_^

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 11:30:38 am
content: Quote from: SilverSolder on December 11, 2022, 02:57:26 pmSadly I can't hold my phone, the cutters and the wire with only two hands.Too much effort to get out a tripod.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 01:32:49 pm
content: Quote from: eti on December 11, 2022, 07:43:28 amPutting tinned stranded wire into a screw terminal is anabsoluteno-no, since solder cold-flows, loosening the connection over time. See also the attached PDF from Phoenix Contact.The correct thing to use is ferrules.It is OK to put tinned stranded wire into spring-clamp terminals because any cold flow is automatically compensated by the spring force.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 01:35:58 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on December 11, 2022, 11:27:43 amYou mean stripping the cable jacket? That’s what jacket strippers are for!Pro life hack: strip cable jacket using cable jacket strippers.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 02:27:35 pm
content: Quoteknifes are for.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 02:28:49 pm
content: Yeah you can use a knife, but why make life harder than it needs to be?

author: IDEngineer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 02:41:51 pm
content: You mean stripping the cable jacket? That’s whatteeth are for. {grin}

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 02:44:46 pm
content: Yeah you can use your teeth, but why make life harder than it needs to be? Use someone else’s teeth!

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 02:45:02 pm
content: QuoteDont be so stupid,you risk doing serious damage to your bottle openers.

author: IDEngineer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 03:05:05 pm
content: {grin}

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 03:14:17 pm
content: Quote from: IDEngineer on December 17, 2022, 03:05:05 pmNot visible in the ASCII art: the number of missing or broken teeth in said grin!

author: Zoli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 04:26:23 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on December 17, 2022, 01:35:58 pmI see your discreet advertisementhttps://www.schleuniger.com/en/products/

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 09:14:47 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on December 17, 2022, 01:35:58 pmYes, but you wont always have access to one.It's good to know how to do things without them.

author: AndyBeez
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 09:38:43 pm
content: Learn the art of stone knapping. It's a skill that's been in the hunter-engineer's skillset for the last 50,000 years. Stuck in the middle of nowhere with 007 and you need to strip that cable sheath to save the world? No problemo if you know how to nap your own stone age wire strippers.

author: Nominal Animal
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 09:51:00 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on December 17, 2022, 03:14:17 pm

author: eti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2022, 02:17:41 am
content: Only buy tools you NEED, not because "oooh shiny shiny". Sounds obvious, but I have contacts with compulsive shopping addictions - the tools they buy, they will NEVER use (and they ain't any kind of engineer!)

author: IdahoMan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2022, 04:39:38 am
content: Quote from: eti on December 18, 2022, 02:17:41 amUuuumm..may have to disagree with you on this. (Estate/Garage-sale Prospector here)For instance, I found a large crimping thing that was cheap and interesting. Turns out it is a stove-pipe crimping tool. Could come in handy!I still wonder if I should have bought that 1950s era, hand-held Scintillator I saw during one of the sales. You'd see them in old sci-fi B movies like The Brain from Plant Arous. Lol.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2022, 06:35:14 am
content: Quote from: eti on December 18, 2022, 02:17:41 amTell that to the old test equipment hoarders.Do i need yet another multimeter? Not really, but that one is going really cheep on ebay!

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2022, 07:28:17 am
content: Quote from: Zoli on December 17, 2022, 04:26:23 pmWell, this is more like that I had in mind!https://jonard.com/cst-tools-round-cable-strippersWe have a Schleuniger micro-coax stripper at work, and it’s a godsend. But since it probably cost as much as a small car, Im not sure it can be called a life hack.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2022, 07:33:23 am
content: Quote from: Psi on December 17, 2022, 09:14:47 pmFair point. I’m definitely someone who likes doing things with the proper tool, since using the wrong tool often damages both workpiece and tool. But I do recognize that having a specialized tool for everything isn’t always possible.That reminds me of a great line from a great comedy: “I’m gonna make the full-flavored risotto using my own set of appliances, called skills and a kitchen.”

author: Slartibartfast
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2022, 09:13:55 pm
content: Quote from: eti on December 11, 2022, 07:43:28 amThis is a very bad idea if that wire is supposed to sit in that terminal block for a long time. Tin slowly flows under stress, which means that the initally tight connection slowly loosens over time until it falls out. This is the same reason why soldered connections are not acceptable in house wiring. There, as well as with the terminal block, wire ferrules are the way to go.

author: SmallCog
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2022, 02:00:13 am
content: Quote from: Slartibartfast on December 19, 2022, 09:13:55 pmThis has caused us no end of issues at work.A former employee was fond of doing this and years later we're still discovering faults traced back to soldered wires that are now loose in terminal blocks.Use a bootlace or similar ferrule.

author: eti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2022, 03:14:33 am
content: Quote from: SmallCog on December 20, 2022, 02:00:13 amThank you to you and the other people who mentioned this. Yeah the ferrules always seem the best way, except I never had any to use back in the day. Lack of knowledge is a hindrance so I appreciate this a lot.