hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Motorcycle helment HUD - College assignment  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: nipplecripple
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 05:07:25 pm
content: Hi everyoneBeen given a college assignment asking to take an existing application of electrical technology and suggest ways of improvement, this could include feedback and evaluation from engineers in those fields.I've had the idea of a built in camera network and black box recorder on a motorcycle logging video footage and distance/speed etcit would also feed information to a display in the helmet, with ability to toggle sat nav, speed and all that and also take the rear camera and feed it into the display.My question is what kinda of technologies would you classify them as and what companies would deal with those kind of technologies?Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2014, 01:48:42 am
content: Its the field of telematics, at-least it is called that in my trade, the actual hardware your describing sounds like an excellent project for an FPGA and some composite decoders (the decoders translate the video stream into nice digital signals the FPGA can play with, you feed it through some form of compression as while data storage is cheap, a micro-sd card gets expensive over 64GB, you could have a seperate micro handle the heads up display, that is up to you, but you could still have the fpga serve it,for the heads up display i would say do similar to optical rear vision displays and mount a small LCD pointing flat down at the top of there head, use a mirror to bend the image towards a small frosted panel in the top part of the drivers field of view, (image will be upside down)as your logging speed and distance you would likely be better off using a cheap gps receiver as you really dont want any wires connecting the rider to the bike, a stretch could be a mode button that inserts in a glove,
motorcyclevoltage regulator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Boschi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2021, 02:53:37 pm
content: i have a motorcycle from the 80's, it has 2 coils of unknow ratings (one pheraps 6v and the other 12v i assume), and back then the whole system runned in ac, no regulator no anything.it was burning lightbulb at an alarming rate whitout doing much light, so i want to convert it to 12vdc and hopefully use some more modern bulbs that create much more light. i live in a rural area so lights are kinda important, you know, to not get it by cars.currently as a temporary solution im using a battery, and with the current lights i have around 10/15W of power consumption.the thing that i know is that when everything was switched off the coils were shorted, and the main one (the one that i plan to use) has a short circuit current of 5A (i measured it with a high bandwidht magnetic current sensor, so the current was not affected by any resistor/device).this is kind of a problem, because with usual voltage regulator when the battery voltage is high enough the coils are shorted, and even with just a scr (or a diode bridge + mosfet) this would mean a 10 or more watt of dissipated power. not unacceptable but id like to not waste any power, both for dissipated heat and because the bike barely goes over 55kph, less energy wasted (hopefully) means a bit more speed.the other problem is that with a light load (1.5k of resistance) the voltage goes to 80+V (in the next days ill measure the open voltage).attached is the circuit i came up with. its a shameless adaptation of this one:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/very-low-noise-preregulator-for-benchtop-power-supply/msg626382/#msg626382D8 is a 10V zener, while D7 a 6.2V one.Q1 and Q2 are there in place of a proper scr.lastly, the lt1431 is a 2.5v reference, in this configuration is equivalent to a lm431.this should kinda work, but i have some doubt:first of all, the frequency of the input voltage could vary between 50Hz and 1KHz, and im not sure if the 20mA drawn by the Q3 current sink are enough at all frequencies. ideally i would want to use akia840Ssimply because i already have some liying around, but i dont know how to calculate the rising/falling time, especially because i assume that when the mosfet close the voltage on the drain goes at the same value as the one on the source, basically creating a negative loop on the gate (miller effect?). honestly im thinking of creating something that kinda works and just swap component until it works reliably (and without too much heath).my other big problem is simply the noisiness of the input. i currently dont have any scope screenshot to show, but with a normal load (12v 10w incandescent lamp) there were some very fast voltage spikes that i couldnt explain. i was thinking of simply add a small value non-polarized capacitor, in order to filter it a bit and keep the voltage down (again, i have to take some screenshot).lastly, the idea is to not have a battery but just a high value low esr cap, in order to hopefully make the sistem smaller and zero-maintenance.what do you think?
Motor/generator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: tropes
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 10, 2021, 10:34:16 pm
content: I have a driven shaft turning a PMSG connected to a three phase rectifier creating a 24 volt DC output current.http://lightswitchracing.com/55W.MOVI also have a motor controller connected to the PMSG using 24 volt DC input, that turns the PMSG shaft at 350 rpm.I have been disconnecting the rectifier and connecting the motor controller to switch from generator to motor.Is there a way to switch the PMSG from a generator to a motor without disconnecting one and connecting the other?

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2021, 11:14:05 pm
content: You need a motor driver that supports regeneration.

author: tropes
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 10, 2021, 11:24:33 pm
content: Thanks, and where would I find this motor driver that supports regeneration?

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2021, 01:47:49 am
content: Check the documentation to see if there's a mention of it or something like "regenerative braking".

author: tropes
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 11, 2021, 01:50:38 am
content: Thanks, I did and found info.
Motorola 4500x rebuild with arduino + sim900 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: robvanderveer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 10, 2014, 08:10:23 pm
content: I would like to share my project. A few years ago i bought a very cheap motorola transportable phone from the 90’s. The electronics inside are worthless because the radio towers no longer support the system. It weights 3.5kg mostly because of the massive 3800mAh battery.I am currently replacing the entire innards of the phone, the only thing you notice on the outside is the use of a 132x32 lcd screen instead of the original 10-digit bulb 7-segment display.So heres what i needed to do:- make a pcb that fits the handset- atmega 328p minimal arduino with ISP port- interface with EFCom sim900 module- minimal wiring between handset and old transceiver module- latching soft-power switch for 12v charger to 5v logic- 5v to 3v3 conversion for display- reverse engineer keypad

author: robvanderveer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 10, 2014, 08:44:27 pm
content: Here's what it looks like now:

author: robvanderveer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 05:24:49 pm
content: Hip hip hurray. Got the display prototype working, fonts stored in PROGMEM and much more. Things are really coming together now.I need more icons!
Motorola 68LC060FExx design - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: megov
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2024, 01:55:11 pm
content: Hi!I have simple and strange question at the same time: does anyone have MC68LC060FExx pinout in CQFP-240?All datasheets that I've found draws FE package as CQFP-208 with 0.5 mm pitch and 27x27mm (or so) package dimensions.I'm looking to a different chip: 31x31mm CQFP-240 (0.5mm pitch) marked as MC68LC060FE50.MC68060DE document said:G4 - The 68060 surface mount package has been changed from a 208 pin CQFP to a 240 pinCQFP. Pinouts for the new package are available on the World Wide Web athttp://www.mot.com/hpesd.Only the 68LC060 and 68EC060 products will be offered in this240 pin CQFP; the full 68060 with FPU will only be offered in the PGA package.But I'm unable to find any documents with CQFP-240 pinout yet.Please, help me to find MC68LC060FExx CQFP-240 pinout.Thanks.

author: D Straney
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2024, 11:00:12 pm
content: Bitsavers has a 1994 version of the user's manual:http://bitsavers.org/components/motorola/68000/M68060UM_AD_Rev1_M68060_Users_Manual_1994.pdf...but even that one only shows a 208-pin QFP (p.366).Edit: oh wait, I misinterpreted the timeline, you need anewerdatasheet, not an older one. Sorry.

author: aeg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2024, 02:25:13 am
content: http://web.archive.org/web/20030404045225/http://e-www.motorola.com/webapp/sps/site/prod_summary.jsp?code=MC68060&nodeId=018rH3YTLC4622

author: megov
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2024, 07:42:58 pm
content: Great thanks to @aeg!For some reasons straight googling didn't point me to this document.Yep. I love Moto! Take the same die, put in the larger package, hide an information about it in some addenums to documentation...What may go wrong?The only difference between CQPF-208 and CQPF-240 is 8 spare pins per side - 4 at the left and 4 at the right of each sides of four.And Moto takes is literally!Comparing pinouts pointed out by @aeg and "the official one" CQFP-208 for FE package shows that 4 left/right outer pins ofeach side of CQPF-240 package are just unconnected. With one exception around 96-96 and 117 pins.Well. I'll go and correct my symbols in KiCAD.
Motorola C350 display driver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Leopoldo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2015, 08:17:50 pm
content: Hi guys!I'm Leopoldo, a 19 years old italian student that's been working on a display for a school project. The display has been exctracted from a cell phone, the Motorola C350, and since I managed to "reverse engineer" it, I thought about sharing somewhere online how to drive it.Here you can find the original datasheet, which is helpful but lacks in some fundamentals information that I had to find myself by scoping at the protocol with an oscilloscope.So I also made a guide to help setting up every register needed to make it work flawlessly and show cool graphics. It's quite a tiny display, and the resolution is not that excellent, but for small project it may be fine. You can find all the info in the Interface pdf, that I wrote myself.Just to let you know, I'm not doing this because the display is good or cheap, but just to allow other people to drive a similar display or the same one, if they're lucky enough; this way, in some years it will be possible to spread even more the knowledge of every display, making reverse engineering easier for everybody.See you next time!!

author: Leopoldo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2015, 08:36:38 pm
content: Images:

author: Leopoldo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2016, 06:32:01 pm
content: Here you go! My personal library for Arduino for the Motorola C350 display
Motorola G  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2014, 10:40:28 am
content: This is a post regarding the fabrication details of the Moto G....in regards to its 3g capability. Yet they have released another version with LTE 4g. I suspect it has the same chipset, but has been unlocked either through hardware or software. My point is that the first generation Motorola g must have been deliberately crippled in order for them to reinvent the same product twice?I have seen mention on this forum with regards to oscilloscope having the same sampling rate but Different bandwiths in order to offer two different products.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2014, 11:13:17 am
content: 3G and 4G LTE modems are different, the fact they had to re-release it with the updated capacity likely means it is a hardware revamp,if it was a software update or a license fee to change then it would be softwareI am not saying you cant cripple a 4G modem to run on only 3G bands, but when you want to sell as many as you can, why would you? if the only difference between my phone and the next was a minor hardware revision that improved download rate and slightly range, it wouldn't be worth it unless my life centered around those being as good as possible,
Motorola MC68332GCFC16 swap to Freescale MC68332GCFC16 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: tru3533
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2025, 05:21:58 pm
content: Hi,I have a controller board with an old Motorola MC68332GCFC16 2001 modelThe MCU have damaged IO on one channel.When powered on, it will give output to 2 valves (5V) TPUCH09 and TPUCH10 this will stay on all the timeThen after command is given, output to TPUCH11 or TPUCH12The TPUCH11 was only giving out 1.9V, I have confirmed that MOSFET and rest of the output circuit is OKAs this is a ROM less MCU I was thinking it would be easy to replace the MCU with an replacement.I have purchased several MCU's Freescale branded from 2 sellers. New old stockAfter replacing the MCU, the board starts up, and LCD turns on.Then giving alarm, as TPUCH09 and TPUCH10 is not drawing any current on the MOSFET'sNo 5V output on TPUCH09 and TPUCH10I tried 4 Freescale MCU's with same result.I have 2 boards available, so I desoldered the Motorola MCU from the other board and tried with this MCU on the broken boardNow the board works.This is old 68000 architecture so maybe someone have faced the same problem.I have no idea what's going on here, can you help?

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2025, 08:46:38 pm
content: Fairchild never, ever made the MC68332.The lineage is Motorola -> Freescale -> NXP.

author: tru3533
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2025, 09:15:43 pm
content: Sorry typing error, Freescale it is.I will correct the post

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2025, 02:08:44 am
content: Your picture shows one with mask set ID 0J30C. What's the mask set of the replacement?

author: tru3533
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2025, 04:58:01 pm
content: @amykIt is 1J66ANot sure what you can do with Mask set ID.
Motorola SC415008FN4? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mark5009
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2013, 12:36:09 am
content: Hello, Collective Wisdom.I recently tore-down a c2002 Blaupkunt Color TV that I inherited (previous owners left the huge bastard for us to dispose of). Anyhow, not too much of interest in there apart from the PLCC mentioned above, the Motorola SC415008FN. It is sitting next to a 128k UV-prog PROM so I assume that it is some kind of micro-controller, given that it is from the Big-M.Unfortunately, I haven't been able to track down a data sheet for the part. Does anyone have any more info that they share?TIA .. mark.

author: philpem
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 06:28:36 pm
content: Chances are it's a custom chip -- "SC" is a Motorola prefix for a custom (or at least semi-custom) part.

author: mark5009
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 06:51:08 am
content: Thanks, philpem.I have come to that conclusion as well. I suspect that it is some kind of standard core, likely 68k, with other bits and pieces attached. Basically junk ;-).. mark.

author: Muzeau
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 01:05:44 pm
content: hi,It is the well known MC68HC11F1FN4.Hope this help.
Motorola SC421028P Datasheet - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: electricMN
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2022, 01:11:14 am
content: I'm looking for a datasheet for a Motorola SC421028P IC. It's used on a golf cart charger PCB. I've had no luck in locating a datasheet for this part. Hoping someone is better than me in searching.TYIA

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2022, 04:47:04 am
content: SC prefixed parts are custom, and sometimes based on existing parts. Does it have a mask set number? If so, it's probably one of their MCUs, and can be identified that way. See this threadhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/datasheet-for-old-motorola-ic/for an example.

author: electricMN
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2022, 10:47:28 pm
content: The only other number on the IC is CTCTAA9812. I assumed that was a date code but maybe not.
mounting a wristband to an aluminium plate for a electronics project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: m.m.m
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2014, 09:44:22 pm
content: hello, first of all I'm sorry it's not related to electronics, I just want your experiences.I wanted to make some cooling system which mounts on my hand like a wristwatch, and I also have a metal (it'd better to be metal for better heat conductivity) wrist band which I took off a watch, now how can I mount the band on a 1.5mm thick aluminium plate?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2014, 07:32:51 am
content: Silver solder or thermally conductive epoxy are the 2 I can think of that are cheap and possible to DIY. Otherwise you need to have a small TIG welder to weld the small band wires to the metal plate. The problem with welding or brazing is that you have stainless steel watch band ad aluminium plate, which are not easy to braze or weld together without an intermediate metal or a very high silver content solder or braze metal.You do get a stainless steel solder paste which has 90% silver and 8% tin with 2% copper in a very aggressive flux ( I have some and it works well for fine wire, but needs a thorough cleaning afterwards with acetone and scrubbing then a wash in vinegar to reform the oxide layer on the nickel) that will bond to almost anything other than aluminium, which needs a soft solder with a different flux to wet it.

author: m.m.m
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2014, 07:49:06 am
content: Quote from: SeanB on August 31, 2014, 07:32:51 amThanks a lot, great idea but I need it to be flexible and able to rotate like it's mounted on a watchI first realized that I can drill two holes near where the band is going to mount, and then cross a thick wire through the hole on the watch and the two holes on the plate but I wont like it.
Mounting Miniature Dynamic Speakers with Spring Connectors - SOLVED - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: WarrenBailey
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 28, 2015, 09:29:25 pm
content: Would anyone know the proper/desired way to mount this type of miniature speaker to a PCB correctly?This type of dynamic speaker is used in smartphones, etc. and has spring loaded "feet" that are the -/+ connectors.The datasheet shows a PCB pad layout that is simple 2 square pads for the feet to sit on, but I do not know if there is an expectation this type of speaker should be epoxied to the PCB or if they are supposed to be held in place with a bracket or other type of physical restraint?I think this must be common knowledge because the manufacturer website doesn't make any mention of how to actually affix these to the PCB pad layout they provide?The part on digikey ishttp://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=ca&KeyWords=423-1171-ndEDIT:Tried Rob's suggestion and yes indeed, epoxying the side with the spring feet connectors to the PCB works perfectly. Sound quality is great, no buzzing since the little speaker is very solidly stuck to the PCB. I used a 2 part mixed epoxy. Also noticed the feet are .8 apart so if you are using a prototyping board, simply fill a couple throughhole pads with solder and then the little feet sit perfectly on those "pads" and the epoxy holds it down.

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2015, 09:44:31 pm
content: those are supposed to be mounted exactly as in phones => mechanically attached to the case and the spring contacts touching the PCB => no physical mounting to PCB itself.but on the other hand what could go wrong if you glue them to the PCB ? as long as the membrane is free to move, it should be fine.

author: WarrenBailey
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 28, 2015, 10:03:47 pm
content: Thank you very much Rob. Well, I guess I will give the epoxy a try then.Rob, I very much appreciate your taking time to respond to my and all the other posts; I have learned a lot from your helping others with their questions.
Mounting modules on pcb - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: m98
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2020, 09:33:42 am
content: Hi,for a product prototype, I need to mount a few modules with castellated hole contacts onto one main pcb. Since the modules are quite expensive, I don't want to solder them onto the prototype pcbs. And as they're relatively large and don't have continuous contact rows on each side, they won't fit into any standard LCC socket. Are there any surface mount spring contacts that would provide a snug fit?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2020, 10:03:35 am
content: I would solder them using low-temperature tin-bismuth solder. Then you can easily desolder them for later reuse, without risking desoldering any other components. Use a cheap hot air rework tool.Beyond that, I’d peruse the Mill-Max and Harwin catalogs to see if there are any spring loaded pins that would work.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2020, 02:27:51 pm
content: Found this:https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/191176/castellation-metal-loop-connectorAs stated in the answer, you might be able to make your own with right angle pin headers.Also seems to be related to your problem... might give you some ideas:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3051216Some other links I found:https://hackaday.com/2019/12/07/simple-pogo-programmer-for-esp8266-modules/(mentioned in:https://www.element14.com/community/thread/74626/l/solderless-connectors-for-castellated-edge?displayFullThread=true)https://www.tag-connect.com/product/ec10-idc-050-10-pin-castellated-board-edge-connector-to-10-pin-0-05-idchttps://forums.parallax.com/discussion/150231/castellated-edge-plated-pcbs-any-socket-or-adapter-availablehttps://www.testfixtures.com/DUT-package-type/PCB-module

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2020, 02:54:53 pm
content: This might work if you can get the right pitch:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000282372452.htmlTitle: 5pcs Spring Compression Contact 2.0 mm Pitch 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Pin Male Surface Mount PCB modular Connector battery Straight

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2020, 01:10:44 am
content: ok, one last idea...
mounting  pcb stub/screws - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: lawrence11
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2020, 07:51:40 pm
content: Hey I have a prototype board double sided, there is some probe points on each side and I want to flip and measure as I wish and tired to see precious things falling all the time not being held firmly etc...I will make a wooden table with 4 corresponding drill holesholes are 3mm dia. one is close to an antenna, I need a plasting equivalent on a corner.I need guidance.

author: Evan.Cornell
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2020, 01:00:17 pm
content: https://www.digikey.com/products/en/hardware-fasteners-accessories/board-spacers-standoffs/582?k=nylon+standoff&k=&pkeyword=nylon+standoff&sv=0&pv1839=133&pv1839=370206&sf=0&FV=29%7C371405%2C1678%7C411801%2C1989%7C0%2C-8%7C582%2C70%7C381417&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&pageSize=25
Mounting pillars for small holes with nearby obstructions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AussieBruce
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2021, 05:54:28 am
content: Hi, I need to mount a small (commercial) protoboard on pillars. It's supplied with 4 mounting holes, thru-hole plated, hole ID is about 1.7mm. There are live traces and lands very close by, so even if I could find a bolt and nut small enough that would be risky. This is a standard board so I presume that there is a proper way to mount it. Can anyone tell me how it should be done? TIAAttachment: ThruHole.jpg

author: viperidae
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2021, 06:19:04 am
content: Google "nylon standoff" and you should find some push fit standoffs. No screws required. Alternatively use nylon screws, but that size is probably getting a bit small for nylon screws.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2021, 12:53:21 pm
content: Quote from: viperidae on June 11, 2021, 06:19:04 amNylon and fibre washers are cheap if you prefer to use metal screws and pillars.

author: phil from seattle
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2021, 02:47:44 pm
content: 1.7mm I.D. implies an M1.6 screw. The head on the standard ones is 3.2mm. I didn't see any nylon M1.6 screws in a quick look online. You can get M1.6 plastic washers.

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2021, 05:48:16 pm
content: Even M3 (or the similar sized UNC #4-40) nylon screws are incredibly delicate, and there's a very narrow band between "tight" and "shear the head off". Heck, even aluminum threads at that size (like on aluminum male/female standoffs) require a gentle touch at that size. I can't imagine nylon screws any smaller than that being worth messing with if you have any other option.That said, you can buy UNC #0-80 nylon screws that have a major diameter of 1.52mm. Those would work with a suitable spacer. I would suggest using a a long screw with an unthreaded spacer and a nut rather than a standoff with female threads. IME, tightening a nut onto a small plastic screw is less likely to snap it than tightening it via the head. You also get better preload on relatively long thin fasteners than short ones which will help it stay tighter over time--that's especially important given how little torque you'll be able to apply to a plastic fastener of this size.If you're okay with a semi-permanent way to secure the board, you could use a bit of brass rod soldered into that hole to secure it to whatever. Either solder the other end into a matching hole on a base board or just thread it through and bend it over.
Mounting PTH Capacitor to SMT pads - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dcambron
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 23, 2018, 05:41:21 pm
content: I'm looking for a place to stick a super-capacitor on an extremely space-constrained design. There is no vertical space to put your standard radial can form factor on the PCB... however I might be able to take a radial can through-hole capacitor with leads, turn it on its side, and manually solder it to some beefy SMT pads. It would be hanging off of the side of the PCB. Perhaps I'll make a notch in the PCB and essentially 'inset' the whole capacitor in the PCB.My question is: Has anyone ever had success doing something like this in a consumer product, or is it too sketchy to even attempt?I want to consider this because:1) Ultra-flat 'pouch' capacitors are very expensive, and I still would have the same problem finding room to fit those. (Over $1)2) I think I can mitigate vibrations by gluing the capacitor to the PCB.3) This option still is probably the cheapest (50 cents for the cap, 20 cents for the manual solder, 5 cents for the glue operation)RegardsDC

author: elecman14
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 23, 2018, 07:34:12 pm
content: Quote from: dcambron on February 23, 2018, 05:41:21 pmHave you quoted that with your manufacturer? It seems cheap if you can find someone to do it at those prices. You might have to get some sort of lead forming operation as well. Also manual solder operations might be more risky than machine placement (no spi/aoi). You also have the variability of human operators that might apply different solder volumes. If someone has an off day it can lead to problems even if you test due to intermittent connections. Selective solder machines might be able to help prevent this depending on your design and/or volume. Building and loading tooling for that would be a pain based on my next point:Quote from: dcambron on February 23, 2018, 05:41:21 pmThe operation would have to be done after the part is de-panelized. You should clearly communicate this with your manufacturer when quoting this design with them. This could be a big pain depending on how the separated pcbas are stored.
Mounting small PCB in vertical DIN rail enclosure - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: SparKing
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 12, 2019, 07:17:12 pm
content: Hello,I'd like to mount a small custom PCB in a DIN rail module; ideally the really narrow vertical jobbies like terminal blocks. For the life of me, I can't seem to find an enclosure like it that is empty, for the intention of mounting custom PCB's/components inside. Anyone have a source for something like this, cheap (< $5US)?Regards,Mike

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2019, 07:33:10 pm
content: Search for "Phoenix Contact DIN rail housings"No affiliation.

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2019, 12:11:29 am
content: Bud industries - Digi-key

author: scuzzyTerminator
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2019, 07:26:13 am
content: I see these a lot on Ali. They are for mounting PCBs. I think they should work with a small enclosure

author: kony
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2019, 02:45:32 pm
content: https://www.enika.eu/components_k3/electromechanical-components_k744/enclosures-and-cases_k435/din-rail-mounting_k437/

author: Larry80
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2019, 03:26:16 pm
content: Cheap and din mounting sounds like a bad idea, always check for the flammability ratings of enclosures. If no reputable answers are given, threat them as flammable paper, good for use under personal supervision.

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2019, 03:28:27 pm
content: There is a metric shit ton of dirt cheap DIN rail housings at TME.eu.
MOV size - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: cxc2007
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 03, 2014, 02:02:21 pm
content: Hi,Hope you all are fine.I have a question that someone migth know the answer.How to calculate the correct MOV, to put in parallel with a 380VAC coil, to avoid the spark in a series Normal Open contact that it used to activate the coil ?Im trying to purchase the correct accesory, but Its hard to find, so I want to just connect a MOV across the coil.Thanks you all.Br.Christian.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2014, 04:28:31 pm
content: One rated for 380VAC (or 530VDC / peak), of course.Shouldn't have to be very big, it's not absorbing lightning strikes.Size, voltage and form factor (wire leads, screw terminals, terminal blocks, etc.) are the only differentiating characteristics of MOVs, as far as I know. (There is a "sharpness" parameter, but I don't think it's usually very well if at all specified, controlled or selectable.)Also very common to use an R+C snubber, usually 0.1uF + 100 ohms or something like that. These are available pre-packaged for panel wiring purposes.Tim

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 01:14:16 am
content: MOVs have a tendency to explode catastrophically when overloaded. I have used them and when they fail they can do a lot of damage. The R/C snubber idea sounds better.

author: cxc2007
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 06:00:37 pm
content: Hey, thanks you.Any Idea how to calculate the snubber ? (resistor power, etc)Thanks again.Quote from: T3sl4co1l on June 03, 2014, 04:28:31 pm

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 06:07:23 pm
content: There are formulas, but they typically are a 47n to 330n capacitor rated for the expected mains voltage ( typically a 400 or 630V X2 capacitor) with a series 47R to 100R 0.5W fusible resistor in series.You can buy them ready made, or DIY. I did so as the price from RS was a little steep, even for RS, so I went out and got some 47n 2200V polypropylene capacitors ( replacement TV flyback tuning capacitors) and used some series 100R 0.5W resistors. 5 caps and resistors along with some heatshrink cost less than 10% of ONE snubber from RS. They are surviving, having done around 15 million AC switching cycles, though the plug in relay they are protecting has had to be replaced already from contact wear. They do not totally stop the arcing, but do reduce it a lot.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 09:32:14 pm
content: You can calculate the snubber from the coil inductance and resistance, but you'd have to know that first, which isn't usually specified.Tim
MOVED: 2021 alternatives for Symmetricom TrueTime XL-DC GPSDO as 10Mhz bench standard? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: bsodmike
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2021, 06:08:52 am
content: This topic has been moved toTest Equipment.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=273988.0
MOVED: A7105 radio chip, passives, RF magic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: MarkR42
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2020, 07:31:43 pm
content: This topic has been moved toRF, Microwave, Ham Radio.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=230270.0
MOVED: Difference between standard transistor and horizontal deflection transistor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: WyverntekGameRepairs
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2019, 11:18:51 pm
content: This topic has been moved toBeginners.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=221712.0This fits better in Beginners, now that I think about it.
MOVED: How to turn this Philips LCD TV PSU (FSP140-4FS01) on? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Geronimo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 02:34:40 pm
content: This topic has been moved toRepair.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=304298.0
MOVED: How to use an EFRATOM 100334-004 Rubidium Oscillator Frequency Standard - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Halcyon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 04, 2024, 08:39:21 am
content: This topic has been moved toMetrology.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=438825.0
MOVED: Motor control for the simplest+cheapest antenna rotator-It should work.thoughts? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2020, 01:41:09 am
content: This topic has been moved toBeginners.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=245688.0
MOVED: New project: Fluke 8840A/8842A continuity buzzer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: bikeNomad
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2024, 08:51:15 pm
content: I'm moving this toTest Equipment, because it's likely to be of more interest there.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=413335.0
MOVED: Plotly: Streaming graphs from a Raspberry Pi, Arduino, and web - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 11, 2014, 12:31:06 pm
content: This topic has been moved toBuy/Sell/Wanted.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=30949.0
MOVED: PSFB converter makes a loud audible noise - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Ashwin619
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2022, 04:46:20 am
content: This topic has been moved to Power/Renewable Energy/EV's board as its more suitable for a topic of this nature.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/psfb-converter-makes-a-loud-audible-noise/
MOVED: Shielding on connection distrubution board ET200 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: danie0408
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 10, 2024, 01:43:07 pm
content: This topic has been moved toPCB/EDA/CAD.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=433991.0
MOVED: STLINK-V3MINIE adapter to 2.54mm pinheader - OSHW - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: DerTobi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 14, 2025, 10:12:42 pm
content: This topic has been moved toOpen Source Hardware.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=453347.0
MOVED: Will a graphics PCI card improve performance in my Pentium 4, 2.53 GHz, 1 GB RAM - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 01, 2011, 09:15:07 pm
content: This topic has been moved toGeneral Chat.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=3615.0
moving sensor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gatoulisss
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 12:30:52 am
content: hello guys,what is the best sensor to monitor a movement? for example if something moves then a buzzer sounds if it stops then silent.i was thinking a tilt sensor like SW-520D but under specific situations then it doesnt work.is an accelerometer sensor good for this work?thanks a lot!

author: Paul Moir
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 03:51:34 am
content: Geeze, they're so cheap maybe?How about a car alarm shock sensor?

author: gatoulisss
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 11:53:24 pm
content: so what would make the job? an vibration sensor or a sensor like Sw520 was doing fine but after i realize that in some angles arent working thats why im searching for something more accurate
mp3s on my 1950s Tube Radio + SMPS Tutorial pt.2 now online !  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Post_Apocalyptic_Inventor
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2014, 10:35:38 pm
content: Hey there guys!I've been busy in the lab for the last week producing new videos. I spent 13 hours today to finish a new video about a project that I was practically thinking about for more than 10 years: Modding some old useless radios so that I could attach some external sources to them. I guess the resulting video is a good mixture of theoretical and practical electronics:I also uploaded part 2 of my SMPS – tutorial. Even though it is the second video of nearly 20 minutes length, It's still a prelude for the real stuff. Part 3 is already in the making but will take some more days to be finished.I hoped that the two videos would be ready before the weekend so that I could post this as an 'easter present' ;P. And I'm really glad I made it in time. So please watch the videos and tell me what you think about it.Have a nice Easter Weekend !The Post Apocalyptic Inventor
MPLAB 8 Download???..... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2016, 12:34:06 am
content: It looks like Microchip is trying really really hard to hide the MPLAB 8 download link on their site these days. I need to build an old codebase that uses a 3rd party compiler that is only compatible with MPLAB 8. Anyone want to point me in the direction of the installer download?(And yes I'll be making a backup copy of the installer this time)

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2016, 01:08:50 am
content: Got it.http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/MPLAB_IDE_8_92.zip
MPLAB ICD 4 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2020, 06:40:53 pm
content: I'm thinking of trying a project using ATSAMC20G15A... and need a programmer/debugger... MPLAB ICD 4 ?Seems to be on special offer at Microchip

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2020, 10:27:35 pm
content: $250 with 50% discount I assume.If its for work project just buy it, if its for yourself what about j-link, mplab snap or similar?https://www.eevblog.com/forum/microcontrollers/microchip_s-icd4-review/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/microcontrollers/fried-my-microchip-icd3-icd4-or-snap/

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2020, 01:17:59 pm
content: I decided to be mean and go with a SNAP. The snap is also 50% off and I seem to qualify for free shipping so was <£7This design is a one off as it's 5V... I don't really want any more ICDs or PicKits.

author: dmendesf
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2020, 02:59:36 am
content: I'm not seeing this discount. How did you got it?

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2020, 10:05:49 am
content: Quote from: dmendesf on March 07, 2020, 02:59:36 am50% Off - Use Coupon Code : TP2000 Expires : 31-Mar-2020
Microchip MPLAB PM3 Mini-Din Power Cable Pin Out Anyone?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: KG7AMV
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2017, 03:42:39 pm
content: Need the Power Cable PinOut for the MPLAB PM3 Searched and Searched only could find that it's 3.3V 5A and 5V .75A 5 pin min din MD-50... I Figured someone would have posted this info by now... I do not want to have to take it apart to trace it out figured i would ask before i start taking things apart.Factory HiTRON PSU HES30-D033E-7I Checked Externally On The UnitPins 4-5 Are GroundPins 1-2 are Connected Together 3.3VPin 3 +5VHate to assume Pin 3 is +5 and pins 1 & 2 are 3.3 due to the amperage and have it opposite and kill the unit.Assumptions were right pinout confirmed.Project complete!!!Thanks In Advance..

author: admiralmaggie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2018, 02:51:35 pm
content: I'm trying to buy/build a power supply for my unit. Did you ever figure out the pin-out?

author: admiralmaggie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2018, 03:34:06 pm
content: I think I found it. See attached...

author: KG7AMV
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2018, 05:22:07 pm
content: Sorry For No UpdateI Used a Computer Power Supply and Got it Powered On.. Few Months back..Just Got a Factory PSU Brick On Ebay.. Should Be Here This Weekend.Ebay Link..https://www.ebay.com/itm/142852941533

author: admiralmaggie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2018, 02:37:12 pm
content: Thanks! I found the connector for anyone else who is looking for one:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cui-inc/MD-50/CP-2050-ND/96914

author: KG7AMV
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2018, 11:35:09 pm
content: Got the Power Brick in the thing is massive in size..MFG ByAcro PowerAXS30D-35/D7(M)Was New With Microchip Packing's Slip..Now to Play With ICSP
MPPT and CCCV Battery charging algorithm - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Siddhat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 03:57:10 pm
content: Hey everyone! Hope everyone's doing fine.I've successfully designed and simulated a Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) algorithm using a buck-boost converter. Now, I need to charge a 12V lead-acid battery with the converter. For charging the lead-acid battery, an algorithm that consists of 3-stage CCCV charging method is needed. But I am not clear in the concept that how can both MPPT and the battery charging algorithm be combined and implemented using a single stage DC-DC converter? What is the circuitry needed?

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 04:44:01 pm
content: By very definition, MPPT and CC/CV can't coexist at the same time. They can be in the same system, though.MPPT gets the maximum power out of the panels.CC and CV both limit the power that can go in the battery.When the maximum power out of the panels is more than the battery can handle, you can't fully utilize the panels. Hence, it's not MPPT anymore.Basically you have three modes:MPPT, CC, CVBy default you are in MPPT, but if the output voltage exceeds the CV setpoint, you fall out of MPPT and go to CV.Similarly, if the measured current exceeds the CC setpoint, you fall out of MPPT and go to CC.

author: uer166
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2020, 12:01:54 am
content: How do you switch from one mode to the other without discontinuities or state oscillation between say CC and MPPT modes? I can understand how a current mode buck converter switches seamlessly between the modes since the inner control loop is current, outer control loop is voltage. But for MPPT, how would the control system look like, considering the input variables are coming from different places.

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2020, 08:00:40 am
content: Batteries being relatively slow devices, I don't see mode oscillations as a problem, and you can always add hysteresis bands to prevent oscillations between modes, if you want.This being said, what does it matter even if the modes oscillate? Even at a high frequency?

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2020, 09:24:30 am
content: One type of MPPT make regulation slow and let it oscillate between two loops. It's called perturbation mode, oscillating slightly around MPPT point.
MPPT battery charge controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 16, 2011, 01:02:05 pm
content: Well I've got me panels and me battery now i need to charge the battery while making the most of me panels. I've wanted to build an MPPT controller for some time and while I initially envisioned a microcontroller supplying the PWM drive for the power swithch and being the complete control module I guess that's not the best idea because I'll need a ridicolously high speed MCU to get a high enough PWM frequency.So I though: why not use a SMPS but use the MCU to process current sensing information and provide feedback to the SMPS (instead of it's own output) in order to control the voltage. Basically this would use the current output as the basis of feedback control.Am I nuts ?

author: Strube09
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2011, 01:21:46 pm
content: Simon,There is an app note by Microchip that can help you (To an extent).http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/AppNotes/01211B.pdfThanks,Strube

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2011, 01:40:46 pm
content: I'm actually doing just that for part of my senior design project, except it's for an exercise bicycle instead of solar panels.

author: johnwa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2011, 05:57:13 am
content: Have you considered using a standalone SMPS, and regulating on the input voltage? As explained in the app note, the precise optimum operating point varies with light level and temperature. However, setting a fixed operating point (probably around 16-17V for a 12V/36 cell panel) is a much simpler way to go, and should still give you a worthwhile gain over connecting the panels directly to the battery. You might want to try plotting some load curves for the panels you have at different light intensities. It would probably be best to use a diffuser, or a dimmable artificial light source, for these measurements, as uneven shading will muck up the results.Do you have multiple identical PV panels? If you are going to the trouble of building a buck converter, you can connect the panels in series for more voltage, less current, and therefore less wiring losses.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 20, 2011, 08:01:11 am
content: Well I have a mix of 1 50W panel and 2 20W panels so all in parallel, not the best thing but not too bad as they only differ in maximum power voltage by 0.5V.I didn't know you could get MPPT chips. My idea was to dither the ouput voltage and monitor the current output to the battery so that I regulate for maximum charge current and track the best conditions