hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Atomic Clock / Frequency Counter Project :) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: @rt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 09:04:48 am
content: Hi GuysGreetings from Australia... first post!I have been watching Dave’s YouTube channel for a while, and in one of the videos where he wasn’t breaking irreplaceable vintage stuff,he demonstrated one of the used rubidium frequency standards available on eBay, and in another, gave a pretty good explaination ofit's inner workings. Then of course he wrecked it.So it was these videos that convinced me to buy one, and lucky I got a good one that locks fast, so I went ahead and made a real time talking clockand frequency counter. The frequency counter part and it’s gate timer is done with old school logic ICs, even though the reference is derived from hardware PWM from the micro controller, in turn clocked with the rubidium. If you look closely the seven segment displays usefive frames of animation to give a mechanical rolling odometer effect, and I wrote a DTMF iPhone App to control it.It was featured on Hack-A-Day, but way before it was done. Also, it’s still not doneIt would take a GPS module to set it properly.Cheers, Art.DTMF input:10 MHz test:

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 03:27:44 pm
content: Quote from: @rt on January 05, 2015, 09:04:48 amThat's not wrecking, this is wrecking:

author: Alex30
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 04:09:31 pm
content: Nice assembly! Could belong in a sci fi movie, seriously. Good work

author: hippy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 06, 2021, 03:41:51 am
content: Hi Brek,Stumbled across this at 2am on YT. This is awesomeI am particularly fond of your rolling odometer 7-segment displays, how did you implement this? Is there any code available to look at, you mentioned sourceforge at some point but my google-fu is not on point and I can't find you.Love the Sat-TV video you just put out too, your channel really deserves many more subscribers!Cheers,Hippy
ATSAMD21G18A-AFT 48TQFP  looking for a couple if you have surplus - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2021, 03:53:08 pm
content: I'm looking for a couple of ATSAMD21G18A-AFT uC, no stock at Digi-Key or Mouser.If you have a few extras, please PM me.
ATSAME51j18 dev board with split rail powersupply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Cen3mode
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 05, 2021, 05:43:09 pm
content: I've just finished making the first version of a schematic for my ATSAME51j18 dev board which has a split power rail supply. I'm pretty new to working with barebone components such as microcontrollers and regulators so can somebody check the schematic for rookie errors. The schematic is attached underneath. I am grateful to everybody who gives it a look.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2021, 06:29:38 pm
content: Usually by "split power rail supply" people understand that MCU using different voltage on VDDIO and VDDIOB. It is clearly not the case here. This is just a design with multiple power supplies. And from what I see 5V supply only goes to the CAN and it is decoupled from the rest of the system with a transceiver. This is fine.From a quick look, you are missing decoupling capacitors on the MCU VDD lines.Microchip has a free design review service. You can submit this there. It is likely to go to me anyway, but I will be able to spend more time reviewing this.

author: Cen3mode
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 05, 2021, 06:37:11 pm
content: Thanks for the response. I was mostly worried that I had messed something up with the USB C connector but it seems that it's all right. I've added a 4.7uf cap as a decoupling capacitor for the microcontroller. I will look at the microchips schematic review service that you told me about. And thanks again.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2021, 06:55:27 pm
content: You need to have one 0.1 uF capacitor per VDDIO pin.And the same for the CAN transceiver.Generally every power supply pin needs to have its own capacitor.

author: Cen3mode
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 05, 2021, 07:00:46 pm
content: Does it have to be exactly 100pf for every VDD pin or can it be a bit larger? Will it have any side effects if it will?

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2021, 07:02:27 pm
content: It is 100 nF, not 100 pF. It does not have to be exactly that, but 100 nF is the most commonly used value for this purpose. It is a good compromise on capacity, availability and price.
Attaching old car serpentine belt on table vice - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2017, 08:01:58 pm
content: So want to attach two pieces of an old car's serpentine belt to the jaws of my vice since most of the stuff I put in there needs to maintain their appearance and not get scratched up by the metal jaws.Problem is finding something to attach them with. I've tried glue and it didn't work, thick double sided tape with a foaming texture didnt really work either so I am not sure what to use to stick them on. Super glue? Two part Epoxy?I've done this successfully before but I have forgotten what the secret recipe wasAny ideas would be appreciated.Thanks!

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2017, 08:07:44 pm
content: Er, it's not a used, greasy, dirty belt, is it?If it's new and clean, anything that sticks to rubber should do. VHB tape (the best 3M brand version of the foam backed stuff), rubber sealants and cements, spray adhesive, so on. Not the rigid and brittle adhesives (superglue, epoxy), the flexible rubber will probably peel away and crack that.Needless to say, the jaws need to be clean, too. If they're greasy, wipe down with acetone or the like. Should be okay.If nothing else, drill and tap a hole, either side of the jaws, and screw it on.If that's still not good enough, then consider traditional metallic soft jaws: usually aluminum or soft bronze, shaped to fit neatly over the jaws. They fit like shoes. For the vice. Except they're for jaws, not feet. Dentures? But not teethy dentures? Reverse dentures with gums on the outside?... nevermind.Anyway, any soft jaw can trap abrasive particles, so make sure they stay clean, too.Tim

author: CopperCone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2017, 11:01:49 pm
content: I recommend just using lead sheet

author: radioFlash
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2017, 11:29:50 pm
content: These plastic jaws attach with magnets so they're easy to put on or take off as needed.

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2017, 10:37:02 am
content: Thanks for the suggestion guys!I like the idea of the plastic jaws, I should be receiving my 3D printer by the end of the month so I will try to print plastic ones to attach to the original jaws with a magnet insert.
Attatch 20x4 display without screws - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Jan Audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2019, 02:23:09 pm
content: Hi, what would be the best way to have a 20x4 display on a front plate without screws ( not soldered on circuit )?A system for easy attatch, and not moving in panel.A idea would be nice i can try to print if it works.Printing with PLA and can not be to thin.thanks

author: KMoffett
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2019, 02:33:50 pm
content: A photo, or several, would help us help you.

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2019, 02:35:44 pm
content: Is it to be mounted on the face side or the rear side of the front panel?

author: honeybadger
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2019, 02:46:10 pm
content: Quote from: Jan Audio on December 05, 2019, 02:23:09 pmHot snot

author: Jan Audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2019, 03:52:16 pm
content: I would like the display be on the inside of the panel sticking out to the front side.I dont have any fotos to make, i have nothing yet.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2019, 04:02:11 pm
content: Velcro with self adhesive backing.

author: Jan Audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2019, 04:10:22 pm
content: There must be some way, i can still use screws when its time.Not with glue, i want the display to be replacable.

author: Jan Audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2019, 05:39:51 pm
content: I dont wanto use glue.I could make it fit so tight that it wont fall, i used that before.Now i like to make some clickable or hangable system ( gravity based )

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 05, 2019, 07:57:45 pm
content: Stick-on magnets?

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2019, 08:35:12 pm
content: Quote from: Jan Audio on December 05, 2019, 05:39:51 pmIs there a problem using Velcro?

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2019, 08:42:20 pm
content: Lots of adhesives out there are removable if you need to. I'd probably use silicone caulk, it's strong enough to hold the display firmly but easy enough to cut if you want to get it apart. You want to let it cure in open air before you close the box though as the vapors are slightly corrosive.
Attempts to read SMBUS through I2C not going so well. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 02:38:30 pm
content: I'm trying to interface a laptop battery through SMBUS with I2C but i'm not having much luck.Battery acknowledges data but when i try to read internal registers it returns decimal 23, no matter what i'm trying to read.Perhaps i'm doing something wrong?Battery is operational and i know the pinout is correct because this is not my first time reading from it.Difference being that previously i did it with an arduino nano with PackProbe code, but now i have an STM32.Previously used code was not compatible so i'm trying to write my own.Datasheet of the BMS IC:https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/bq20z45-r1.pdf?ts=1634387207837&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.ti.com%252Fproduct%252FBQ20Z45-R1Edit: included another screenshot where i attempt to read relative state of charge and get the same result. Also changed the readout to HEX.

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 03:52:23 pm
content: Checking SMBUS application notes shows that what i am getting is a successful read from the battery but the data received does not seem to change.Perhaps the probem lies in the write section where i tell which register to load?

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 04:26:39 pm
content: Found another SMBus application note, this time from texas instruments.The BMS IC i'm trying to communicate with was made by them, so if anyone is to tell me how to do it, it's them, right?And according to their diagrams my communications are correct also.Although there is a small mistake on part of TI, see if you can spot it.Not sure then why i'm getting wrong data. Perhaps i should try another battery pack?

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 06:07:15 pm
content: I didn't have a battery that i knew the pinout of but i had a bag of BMS boards that i pulled from old laptop packs.Hooked one up and it worksSo my comms were correct, but i guess the pack i was trying to read is bricked somehowAnyways it works and all is well.Code:Design Capacity: 4400Design Voltage: 11100Manufacture Date (Y-M-D): 2010-7-22Serial Number: 8906Specification Info: 49Cycle Count: 815Voltage: 4.74Full Charge Capacity: 1322Remaining Capacity: 0Relative Charge(%): 0Absolute Charge(%): 0Minutes remaining for full charge: 65535Cell 1 Voltage: 1434Cell 2 Voltage: 1730Cell 3 Voltage: 1577Cell 4 Voltage: 0State of Health: 536874816Battery Mode (BIN): 0b1Battery Status (BIN): 0b100101111010111Charging Current: 0Charging Voltage: 536874816Temp: 23.35Current (mA): 0
ATTEN OSCILLOSCOPES and EASYSCOPE - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: MrsR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2012, 07:09:37 pm
content: Hi!I have read some posts about the USB driver for ATTEN scopes. I have been after a 64bit driver for some time and ATTEN has sent me this addresshttp://www.atten.eu/media/catalog/product/pdf/64-bitSigned.zipI have down loaded it but haven't tried it as my scope is in for repair hope this HelpsALL THE BESTRachaelP.S. If someone uses this Driver can you put a report on it,eg. if it works OK! if NOT! any problems.

author: ipereira57
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2013, 04:19:56 pm
content: Hi. I download the file that you give, but nothing. When I push connect appear "Linked Fail"

author: MrsR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2013, 11:29:27 pm
content: Quote from: ipereira57 on January 27, 2013, 04:19:56 pmI just clicked on the address I posted and it worked fine.GIVE IT AGORachael

author: Longtimetech
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 09, 2013, 11:52:17 pm
content: I assume you ran the downloaded file and it installed properly. Now maybe the new program needs configured as to what connection method you want to use to link to the scope. Just a hunch.

author: mickytech
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2013, 10:41:11 am
content: tried to use this usb driver and it failed , back to drawing board

author: unexpectedly
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 16, 2013, 12:35:30 am
content: That link worked for me, thanks. Win 7 x64 Atten ADS1062C The drivers from the included CD-ROM as well as from Atten China page did not work.I just bought the Easyscope fromhttp://www.atten.eu/but it must take them a while to add it to my downloads...? Trying to connect an Arduino to a DRO scale...Thanks!Chris
attenload - please report here if your Atten (or related) scope works  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sdaau
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 08, 2012, 05:46:32 pm
content: If you have an Atten scope - it just might be that the open-sourcehttp://sdaaubckp.sourceforge.net/attenload... might work for you.Note that theattenloadapplication was developed on an Atten ADS 1202CL+ (with firmware version 3.01.01.31R16) and Ubuntu Linux (Windows is an untested possibility). It consists of a .c file binary, and a collection of Perl scripts, which also utilize ImageMagick and Gnuplot.Furthermore, there is already one report - by @bxs in:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/atten-ads-1102cal-photos/30/#msg161058... confirming that it also works with ATTEN ADS 1102CAL:As noted inhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/atten-ads1202cl-%28partial%29-teardown/Atten ADS 1202CL+ actually contains Siglent hardware.Thus, it is a possibility that other brands of oscilloscope (such as Siglent, or maybe Rigol?), which ship with the EasyScope application, could also be interfaced withattenload(see alsohttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/easyscope-list-of-digital-oscilloscopes-that-use-it/); note, however, that targeting other brands would require at least changing the USB VID/PID in the source and recompiling (and likely packet headers would have to be modified in the parsing scripts as well).Ifattenloadhappens to work for you, please report back in this thread with brand and model (and possibly, post the PNG)Cheers!PS: Since the PNG images are huge, please use BBCODE like:Code:[img width=400]https://www.eevblog.com/forum/...;image... in order to have the image appear scaled.

author: ee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 03:32:31 pm
content: Hello,this nice tool works nearly with mySiglent 1102 CNHW: 6-41-2.1FW: 3.01.01.31R17There seems to be a problem with screensize and time base origin as you can see here:(or in the attachment, which i cannot make to appear here)
Attention All Hoarders - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2015, 04:30:07 pm
content: Anyone who follows the maxim of 'don't throw that away it might be useful' might come across the same problem as me, some items do not like being stored for an appreciable amount of time. This afternoon I removed a four-pole three-way switch from my hoard to build into a new project and found that the tabs on the back were tarnished. I don't know what metal those tabs were made of but, even after cleaning, I still could not solder to them. I ended up using plumbers solder and a tin of flux before I managed to tin the tags (after which I carefully cleaned the flux off).So, before placing an item in your 'could be useful some day' box check the connections. If they look like brass then tin them before storage.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2015, 04:37:53 pm
content: At the moment I'm hoarding space by throwing stuff out so I have more than enough space in case I ever go back to hoarding stuff

author: ProBang2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2015, 04:49:23 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on November 22, 2015, 04:37:53 pmWhere to find???

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2015, 05:29:06 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on November 22, 2015, 04:37:53 pmI nominate this for the post of the month.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2015, 05:50:40 pm
content: Needle file works on that old chrome plate to get it solderable.

author: Artlav
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2015, 06:11:08 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on November 22, 2015, 04:37:53 pmReminds me of this classic...
Attenuating Volume when Injecting Audio into a CRT Television - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: cplusplus
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 26, 2020, 09:39:40 pm
content: I have a mid to late 80's Sony Triniton that only has an RF input. I have successfully injected composite video, and I have working audio injected right before the amplifier IC. The television is mono.In order to have the volume control function correctly, would a voltage controlled resistor be the best solution here? The volume control voltage increases when the volume is turned up.

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2020, 10:08:58 pm
content: Your situation is unclear from what you posted. Do you want to feed an audio signal directly into the television receiver, or do you want to modulate an oscillator to be received by it? And what do you want to do to control the volume?I suspect you are getting a bit too fancy for a rather simple thing.

author: cplusplus
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 26, 2020, 11:52:14 pm
content: I have the audio working fine directly into the TV, but I would like to be able to control the volume with the remote.My idea is to take the volume control (0V when volume is all the way down, just under 6V when volume is at the max) and input it into something like a MOSFET attenuator circuit.
Attract fish by sound, light or anything else - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: i3layli
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 10:50:54 am
content: My project right now is the depth finder. I've been looking at fishfinders and how they work and I think that's probably the best way to go - run an electronic input into a transducer and send out a fairly low-frequency sound wave since the lake will probably be deep. (Erie/Ontario).However, I've been looking for such an ambitious soul who has posted such a schematic but no such luck. I'm a little sketchy on how to make a reciever that will take it the returning sound waves. Can anyone lend me their Genius?

author: grifftech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 05:15:21 pm
content: green fish light, like thesehttps://www.amazon.com/s?k=green+fishing+light&crid=3B24G0V264T7A&sprefix=green+fish%2Caps%2C177&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_10

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 06:34:33 pm
content: Quote from: i3layli on May 22, 2019, 10:50:54 amOne of us is a bit confused -- either you or me.Do you want toattractfish, as per the post title, or measure how far the fish (or the lake bottom) is away?Why do you think that a deep lake (long distance) requires or favors low-frequency sound waves?

author: windsmurf
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2019, 04:20:15 am
content: Some good info here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/fish-finder-sonar-circuits-protocols-and-transducers/You can start off with a cheap one to study here:https://www.ebay.com/itm/LUCKY-FFW1108-1-100M-Fishing-Sonar-Wireless-Fish-Finder-Alarm-Sensor-Transducer/312624224834
Attrubtion for uCurrent Design? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: MayTheFlukeBeWithYou
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 17, 2011, 08:51:32 pm
content: I am working on making a uCurrent for personal use and I am interested in releasing all of the design files (including source list of parts) as an open source hardware so that anyone can order one. I doing it in KiCAD, so you won't need an expensive CAD license.Does anyone know how I should attribute Dave and the EEVblog? Would I be able to release the files? I know he mentioned that if he were to do it, he would release the files with a CC Attribution share alike license.Would I be able to sell them, if they were released under that license? (I only ask because buying in bulk is cheaper, so if I make 10 or 50 there would be a cost savings)

author: MayTheFlukeBeWithYou
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 17, 2011, 09:21:38 pm
content: Just spoke with Dave via email:If you want to do a direct KiCAD conversion then that's fine, but ifyou want to make any changes at all, that's fine too, but then don'tclaim that it's my design. In either case I require attribution,preferably with a link to my project site.The design is Creative Commons Share-Alike Attribution, although Ihave not updated my site to state that as yet.

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2011, 07:48:44 pm
content: Looking forward to this. What op-amp will you use? Will you change the design to use through hole components?Ivan
atwinc1500 vs ESP8266 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rasul
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2015, 03:22:36 pm
content: Hi!I've never worked with Wi-Fi modules and want to ask how much the price tag $12,28 for Atmel ATWINC1500 is adequate for its features?What makes Atmel solution better then popular ESP8266 for $3?What would fit better for serial product, which must be able only to get the weather on the Internet and get control commands from a mobile phone?For this application I'm really don't see any significant difference between them.ESP8266 -http://ru.aliexpress.com/item/1-pcs-x-ESP-13-ESP8266-WiFi-Serial-Transceiver-Module-REMOTE-DIY-COMPONENT-ESP-13/32341211275.htmlATWINC1500http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Atmel/ATWINC1500-MR210PA/?qs=C0FNv%2F5jaI9at6Iw6IE9ag%3D%3DATWINC1500 datasheet -http://www.atmel.com/ru/ru/Images/Atmel-42376-SmartConnect-WINC1500-MR210PA_Datasheet.pdfThanks for your attention!
ATX 12V drop (yes another ATX PSU thread) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: racitup
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 12, 2024, 07:37:46 pm
content: I'm trying to use the 12V output from a 350W ATX PSU (Novatech Powerstation 350)It is apparently capable of sourcing 30A @12V but am struggling to get 5A.When I connect the load (it's a 12V car tyre pump, don't know of the inductive/noisy load will make a difference?) the voltage drops from 12.2V to about 4V and the current draw is 5A.EDIT: The sticker on the pump says 12V 10A (The pump should be drawing around 6A I think)I've read that I might need to have a 5V load, so I have tried charging my phone from both the 5V and 5V standby lines at the same time as the 12V load and it makes no difference.I also read about voltage sense lines, but can't seem to find any reference on the ATX pinouts.The only other connections I have made are tying green to black to make the PSU permanently on.Any ideas how I can get the output stable?

author: strawberry
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2024, 08:05:09 pm
content: soft starter for motorcapacitor banksomething that limits peak current below 30Awith oscilloscope could capture current waveform

author: Phil1977
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2024, 08:26:18 pm
content: Can you try connecting a smaller and non-noisy load like a 20W and 50W halogen lamp, e.g. from a car replacement set?If the 50W halogen lamp is lighting up instantanously then you know the supply is able to deliver >10A.

author: racitup
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 12, 2024, 09:02:12 pm
content: Lol, thanks for the replies.Having messed about a bit more and taken some voltage measurements from the PSU end it turns out it was the connections.Apparently you can't just try and put 10A through some crocodile clip connections and hope for the best!Replaced it with proper plug/sockets, wire and solder connections and worked fine.I was just trying to recharge my unvented hot water cylinder expansion tank using a car tyre pump. Back up to ~3bar
ATX based bench power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Folxs
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2015, 10:39:29 am
content: Hi, i'd like to make ATX based power supply and I found some project like this:http://hardlock.org.ua/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3Google TranslatedBut I can't find op amps (LM324) on the PCB! What is wrong with me?Second question: Here i got simillar power supply:http://radiokot.ru/circuit/power/supply/19/Google TranslatedWich one is better project? Or maybe You got something better?I would like to make bench supply 0-22V would be perfect, but 3-21 or 3-20 also will be good.But i need a lot of power (about 5-10A)

author: lapm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2015, 11:40:30 am
content: Well there is more then one way to implement power supply. What you need to do is safely reverse engineer how yours is built and then start design how to modify it... Not exactly thing i would recommend someone new to electronics...Why do you need that much current? Also would recommend getting commercially build adjustable power supply, at least it safe. And gets you going what ever your planning doing after to PSU...

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 24, 2015, 11:42:27 am
content: Nothing's wrong with you.. but questions have been raised before so search before posting and you'll find ATX and LAB are not coterminous.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/beginner-need-advice-on-atx-psu-gt-lab-psu/msg744759/#msg744759The translated link gives no access to the schematic so I went back to the Ukrainian site and yes you are right, no LM324.

author: Folxs
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2015, 02:23:48 pm
content: I'm not beginner but not also PRO. Parameters of PSU like that are pretty accurate - but not laboratory. I'd like to have pretty cheap, accurate and powerful PSU to run laptop 7A 20V for example.

author: DanielS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2015, 03:26:02 pm
content: Most ATX power supplies I have repaired or dismantled used TL431-style programmable references instead of opamps or comparators. That spares the trouble of providing a regulated supply of some sort and a reference voltage since a TL431 is like a 2.5V bandgap reference and an open-collector opamp in one three terminals package.
ATX Breakout Board Project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gevv
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2020, 04:26:33 pm
content: Hi,ATX Breakout Board PCB 3.3v, 5v, +12v, -12v out 2x USB and 2X1...9V variable symmetrical output. Single layer PCBUSB outputs direct or for charging USB Charge Resistor table;https://youtu.be/FslLT8vD_F4

author: JohnnyMalaria
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2020, 04:43:23 pm
content: Very nice. I like the variable +/- 1-9V. I bought a small form factor ATX supply and a breakout board a while back. It's been very useful but the variable outputs would have saved me some time.Thanks for sharing.

author: gevv
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2020, 10:16:31 am
content: Hi,I'm glad it workeddc dc converter and a few more additions will be made in the new version.Good work..

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2020, 10:28:59 pm
content: Nice little project.I might suggest a few things though.For one mount the ATX power supply connector on the rear side of the PCB. That stiff cord will be in the way no matter how the board is used with it mounted to the front.Make the pads for the banana jacks thick and wide enough so that the user can bore them out to 10-32 for use with panel mounted banana jacks. That might also cause clearance issues so that might mean moving more parts to the rear of the board (now the front possibly). The idea here is that if somebody wants to mount such a supply break out board to a case or panel they can. The probably should too just to avoid shorts.The lack of ground or zero volts references is really bothersome (this is actually a problem in a lt of commercial supplies sooo). In any event at the very least have a ground or zero volt reference banana jack for each variable supply. It might not hurt for the fixed 3.3 and 5 volt supplies either.Provide fusing or over current protection for the USB connectors.Speaking of USB, it might be better to offer them up as headers, again for panel mounting.Again for people that might want to mount this in a box or panel, add pads for the power on button so that it might be easily paralleled.As you can see I've been thinking about this a lot as I have a similar need too build a PC Power Supply powered supply. My approach would be slightly different but all of these designs are slightly different.Quote from: gevv on December 25, 2020, 10:16:31 am
atx power supply hack? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: justin66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 12:25:22 pm
content: hey guys i want to hack this power supply but i cane across yet an other type of psus so the question is how do i hack it?it has hy 510n protection circuit and so called tiny switch 2 tny267p switcher ic, along with uc38438 pwm controlleri looked through datasheets but im not that advanced to understand it well enough. can you guys please help me hack its VOLTAGE?roughly i need 14v under load. load is no more than 8 amps max its rated for 12v 18amps.PLEASE

author: justin66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 01:02:45 pm
content: please help

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 02:38:09 pm
content: Here's the big question...WHATpower supply?Is it this one?http://gdb.voanews.com/2718AB46-5BC8-42A9-8345-5A7D1BB7A580_mw1024_s_n.jpg

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 04:04:46 pm
content: @skimask@justin66 - sorry but from that post nobody can help you. And repeat posting 1 hour apart (you do realize that this is not a real time chatroom and that people are at work/sleeping/etc, right?) is just pointless spamming that will not get your problem resolved any faster. But it will certainly annoy the hell even out of the people who would have helped you otherwise.First, unless you post the model number and some photos of the thing (the PCB mainly), nobody has a clue what are you talking about - those parts are in thousands of power supplies.Second, "hacking a power supply" is a very broad term. What are you exactly after? I guess not hacking it apart with a hatchet, but who knows ...You may find this website useful:http://www.catb.org/esr/faqs/smart-questions.html
ATX Power Supply Mod. Voltage and Current Adjustable  (TL494) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gevv
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2023, 08:31:47 pm
content: Hello, converting old generation ATX (TL494) power supply to regulated power supply. 0.24V 0.8,5Ahttps://youtu.be/nemJEK2TT8o
ATX PSU mod to charge Boat/RV battery bank @ 13.6vdc 40a - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: yamajason
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 14, 2014, 03:30:48 am
content: I know there have been instructables and various other ATX PSU mod to charge Boat/RV battery bank @ 13.6vdc 40a...But, I have not found one with Constant Current (charge current limiting) that will lower the output voltage / limiit output current within the PSU's 12v rail capabilities. I'm thinking a current shunt -> feedback circuit that outputs to the PSU's voltage sense wire.Any suggestions?

author: yamajason
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 20, 2014, 04:37:29 pm
content: Any ideas?
ATX PSU to battery charger conversion but it squeals like mad. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2020, 11:12:34 pm
content: Today i decided to modify an old ATX PSU i had into a lead acid battery charger.It's some very old power supply but it has nichicon caps in it so it should be good quality.It also has a 2kBit EEPROM chip in it with other weird stuff, but i digress.I disconnected the voltage feedback opto and hooked my circuit to it.It's basically to bypass all the complicated voltage feedback circuitry to increase the voltage to ~14V and to add current limiting, it's a flyback SMPS so increasing the voltage is fine.It works great, i get 14.2V and it limits current at just over 3A but it squeals like mad at the most annoying frequency possible and i can't seem to figure out a way to stop it.I tried connecting capacitor/resistor combos between pin 1 and 2 but didn't get far.Schematic of my voltage feedback circuit included, it was drawn with LM393 in mind, but after testing and trying to silence the noise i replaced it with a LM358 with two diodes added to outputs to only sink current.With both ICs i get noise but i had better success silencing it with the LM393.

author: TheMG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2020, 02:45:08 am
content: Have you looked at the feedback loop using an oscilloscope? What do you see?

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2020, 07:18:16 am
content: Tried hooking the scope up but didn't see much, everything seems completely fine.Could it be that the noise is inherent to the PSU and is not related to feedback?Both with a 6.8load for CV and with 3.3for CC it regulates very well.This is with a 1n cap across pin 1 and 2.Yellow trace is V+ and red is the opamp output.Ps: the ripple in the second pic might be my 3R3 resistor burning out.
Auction "score": How to find datasheets on old parts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: TheUnnamedNewbie
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2017, 05:37:58 pm
content: So, I recently won an auction for a lot of old components (one big lot). There is a lot of garbage in there, but a lot of parts that make it more than worth what I payed (connectors, heatsinks, diodes, BNC connectors, etc.).I'm sorting them out, and I just ran into these. I think they are Siemens B60C175 bridge rectifiers. From what I could find on the web, the "60" is the reverse voltage, IE, max 60V. The 175 means it can do 175mA current.But no datasheets from what I could find (and I tried). Anyone have any tips on how to find datasheets for old parts? Usually I get my datasheets by just typing the partnumber in google but no luck today...

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2017, 07:37:09 pm
content: In no particular order:Use the 'verbatim' option when you do a google search. Sometimes it doesn't help, but sometimes it cuts out a lot of clutter.Generalize your search. Since there was probably a series of bridges, the specific model number might not have been listed. Instead the 'family' might be B60 which is what you should look for. But in this case, if 60 refers to the voltage, then the family might be 'B' which is useless. Try something like <siemens "bridge rectifier">. Note the quotes. They force google to look for the phrase and cut out a lot of clutter.Be alert for random bits of info. I found references to B30C600 as a selenium rectifier. It seems unlikely that yours would be selenium, but it would be worthwhile checking the forward voltage drop just to be sure. Other random things might be that Siemens used a specific name for their family of bridge rectifiers. If that was true, and I don't know if it was, it would be a help.Check the NTE replacement component site. They have a huge cross-reference of components. However, remember that they provide info on something that will replace your device. So they might tell you that a 1 amp 600V bridge will rerplace yours. Doesn't mean yours would survive under those conditions!For a bridge, you can just make some measurements. Since you've got lots, you can afford to lose a few. Measure the forward voltage drop at various current levels and compare it to the specs for other bridges or diodes. Same with reverse breakdown. Since you have a hunch that the voltage is 60V and the current is 175ma, it makes it even easier.See if archive.org has a copy of a Siemens databook. They do have some databooks.Use the Wayback Machine which is a part of archive.org . Search forwww.siemens.comand see if you can click your way to their components section. Maybe you'll get lucky. Get comfortable. This could take a while!Remember that if the components are from before 2000, there's a chance that there never was a digital copy of the datasheet. In that case, a place like archive.org or one of the datasheet web sites are your only hope.Ed
Audio streaming on UART? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: abhishekkumar1902
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2017, 08:15:27 am
content: I was just wondering if it is possible to stream audio on UART?The audio quality I want to stream is just of speech grade. Did anybody of you have tried this before of any examples or so?

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2017, 08:23:50 am
content: uart is just a way to move data. If the way to move data is fast enough, you can stream audio over it.However, you also need to match this to the way you input, process and output the data.And that is where using uart might put you back.

author: hamster_nz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2017, 08:48:32 am
content: Telephone quality voice can be transferred at about 8000 12-bit samples per second - so 96kbits without compression.A UART can commonly do 115200 (including start and stop bits), which is 92,160 data bits per second.You can use 12-bit to 8-bit bit companding to get the data down to 64,000 bits per second without minimal effort.Seehttp://www.dspguide.com/ch22/3.htm&http://www.dspguide.com/ch22/5.htm

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2017, 04:05:23 pm
content: UARTs can commonly run much faster than 115k. I typically run my debug UARTs at 1-3Mbaud (3M is the highest rate commonly supported by USB UART adapters, but the FT232H can support up to 10M). Of course getting those kinds of baud rates from an MCU depends on a sufficiently fast clock.

author: borjam
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 11, 2017, 04:09:39 pm
content: Quote from: hamster_nz on December 11, 2017, 08:48:32 amYes, the two most common schemes are µ-Law (used in USA) and A-Law (used almost elsewhere). Some converters can even work directly with A-Law or µ-Law.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A-law_algorithm

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2017, 04:18:03 pm
content: Quote from: ajb on December 11, 2017, 04:05:23 pmFT232H supports 6 and 12M. Don't recall offhand if it does any inbetween - maybe 8 as it starts from a 48MHz clockPIC32MX at 48MHz will receive at these rates, though 12M can get sketchy unless you use DMA

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2017, 06:57:25 pm
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on December 11, 2017, 04:18:03 pmYou are correct, the datasheet specifies that it does not support 7M, 9M, 10M, or 11M. Apparently the reference clock is 120MHz, with x16 or x10 fractional baud rate generators.

author: Freelander
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2017, 07:25:05 pm
content: Quote from: abhishekkumar1902 on December 11, 2017, 08:15:27 amWhat sort of distance and what medium ?
Audio AC coupling and DC bias - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: marcan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2010, 03:58:37 am
content: I'm working on a project that includes a passive line-level audio mux (no buffering) that selects between passing through an audio input to an audio output, or instead selects an internal audio source to pass to the output. I've chosen theFSA2257mux for the job.I understand that I need AC coupling for the external input and output, as the mux will only pass signals within its supply range (0-5V) and external signals are probably centered around 0V. I'll use 1µF caps on both the inputs and outputs (I believe they should provide adequate frequency response with line-level loads; this isn't meant for headphones/speakers). However, I haven't been able to figure out whether I also need explicit DC biasing on the input to set the DC offset to somewhere around Vcc/2 or not. Is letting the signal float after the input cap OK, or should I explicitly bias it? If so, how should I do it? A resistor to Vcc and another one to Gnd? Are there specific criteria for the value or would, say, 100K each to Vcc and Gnd be adequate? If I had to guess, it's a tradeoff between extra load impedance (obviously 1K resistors wouldn't cut it, as they'd drastically reduce low-frequency response vs. a 10K or higher line level load) and adequate biasing, but I'm not sure what that would mean in practice (would 1Meg resistors do the job?). Or maybe I just don't need the darned things at all.You can probably tell analog is not my forte

author: jahonen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2010, 06:50:14 am
content: If power supply pins of the MUX are connected to unipolar supply (+5V and 0 V for instance), then you definitely need the VCC/2 biasing on the signal. As a general rule, an input signal to the any IC should not exceed supply voltage (of course there are some exceptions).Another way would be to choose such a MUX which can operate with split supplies and still accept logic level control signals, but that is probably not an option since you have already chosen the MUX chip. I personally prefer not to AC-couple whenever possible to reduce unnecessary roll-off and phase distortion of the low end of the signal. Of course that requires careful evaluation of DC offsets in each stage.Regards,Janne

author: marcan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2010, 02:42:35 pm
content: This is going to be battery powered, so a bipolar supply would be too much of a pain. Audio quality isn't critical anyway (this is no hi-fi apparatus), so I'm not too concerned about having to AC couple.So, given that I need Vcc/2 biasing, what would be the recommended way to do it?

author: jahonen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2010, 03:03:11 pm
content: Simple resistor divider, like 100k from VCC to signal and 100k from signal to GND should work. This results effectively 50k input impedance.Regards,Janne

author: marcan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2010, 03:42:27 pm
content: Sounds great, thank you for your help
Audio alarm/speaker for IP67 chassis - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rakeshm55
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2020, 02:23:15 am
content: How to provide audio alarms/speaker for devices with IP67 chassis??. Is there any panel mount solution or some mechanical arrangement so that audio can heard outside of the chassis.How do IP-rated Handheld devices achieve this feat??
Audio amp base *current* bias - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Circlotron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2023, 05:47:23 am
content: Normally an audio output stage has a temperature compensated DC Vbe applied to the bases of the BJT output transistors. As they heat up the applied Vbe is lowered to maintain more or less the same quiescent collector current. What would happen if instead we applied a small but constant *current* to the bases and let the the Vbe consequently look after itself. If this would work there would presumably be no need for thermal contact to the output transistors. Surely someone must have tried this.

author: SuzyC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2023, 06:16:25 am
content: Results: Small Constant Current======>XoverDistortion No Thermal Contact======>Thermal Runaway=====>Smoke

author: srb1954
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2023, 09:46:01 am
content: Quote from: Circlotron on April 18, 2023, 05:47:23 amTransistor current gain HFEtends to increase with temperature so, even if you supply a constant base current, the collector and emitter currents will still increase with temperature. The consequent increase in power dissipation and junction temperature effectively creates a positive feedback loop and it could lead to a thermal runaway situation.

author: Kokoriantz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2023, 11:51:47 am
content: This type of biasing does exist in class AB as class A with JLH1969. The increase of bias due to Hfe is positive feedback with a gain less than unity so it stabilizes itself. This type does not require emitter resistors.Search on DIYAUDIO website for examples.