How do you organize your component bins? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Red Squirrel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 09:52:41 am
content: I'm new to electronics and mostly just in the learning phase but I want to start getting into some projects. Don't really have much in terms of components yet other than a recent digikey order of random stuff like bit shift registers and other stuff I've bought or collected from old electronics. One thing I've been curious about is finding a good way to organize components so they're easy to find and overall in a neat and tidy storage. Looking for some inspiration. Tackle boxes? Those little drawer thingies for screws? Whatever you use, I'd like to hear ideas.In particular, how do you organize resistors, capacitors and other components that have a wide range of values? What is the best way to separate the values and what values are very typical and should be kept separate?Right now my little work bench looks like I'm a mad scientist, but in reality, it's just because I'm super disorganized.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 10:13:41 am
content: Quote from: Red Squirrel on December 05, 2014, 09:52:41 amA combination of techniques, depending on the component. For hobbyist purposes where there is an eclectic partial collection of very different components...If the compoinent is "finger sized" and clearly marked (e.g. through hole resistor/capacitor, or large semiconductors) then I keep them in as many "screw drawers" as necessary. I optionally put them in tiny cheap plastic bag (antistatic if necessary) and write the part number on the outside.If the component is "tweezer sized" or not clearly marked (e.g. SMD components or small semiconductors) then I keep them in the plastic bags and tapes in which they were supplied including the part number. I put multiple bags in one screw drawer.When I start to build something, I take all the relevant the plastic bags to the workbench, and then take out each component immediately before I use it.

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 10:22:16 am
content: I keep SMD capacitors diodes and e12 resistors and some transistors and mosfets in wentai (or wen-tai) smd boxes.Other parts I keep in an Excel table, and in esd bags in a box. You can scroll through them like a tray of envelopes.

author: ovnr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 11:06:47 am
content: +1 for Wen-Tai boxes; I have several hundred. Non-sensitive parts (resistors, caps) loose, more delicate things in tape.For larger bits they usually live in their original bags in a few larger plastic tubs, or in smaller project-specific boxes.

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 12:29:59 pm
content: Apart from the little 'drawer' cabinets, I have large compartment boxes and lots of Chinese food containers. For my resistors (those in bigger quantities) I've got a cardboard box with lots of little 'payday envelopes' inside it. I can take a couple of pictures if it helps.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 04:36:03 pm
content: resistors and caps go in sorting trays with spring lids. cheap from iteadstudio.all other parts i used to put in drawer trays , but cutting labels, rearainging them alphabetically from time to time, parts getting under the tray dividers led me to another storage method :i bought a gigantic case of small antistatic bags( 10.000 bags ,each 10cmx 10cm with zip-loc ).each bag has a simple label on it for example A01 or D01 or M01A= analogD = digitalM = memoryBags are stored in lidded boxes. boxes are lableled A00 - Axx , Axx - Ayya spreadsheet holds the list of what sits in what bag.Bag A23 contains LM324 in SO14Bag M7 holds 6264 in SO-24Bag D104 is 74V1G125 in SOT23-5if the parts were bought from somewhere there is a column with the vendor and order code.so no need to re-sort the stuff in trays. if a bag is empty it gets refilled or tossed. i can very quickly sort my spreadsheet for what i need.

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 10:13:44 pm
content: For smd parts snipped off reels, I use transparent 35mm negative storage sheets and slip the cut offs with the distributor's label into the pocket. If I remember, I also write on the back of the paper carriers the part value.I invested in a full set of E96 0402 and 0603 resisitors, and E24 in L and C on 0402 and 0603 a few years ago, stored in 35mm neg storage sheets.Other than that, I have about fifty drawers, some with parts in individual bags compartmentalised into, say, smd caps 100-999pF, but mostly the drawers have parts for specific (mostly unfinished) projects.I always over-order on parts, comes in mighty handy later on, no need for spreadsheets, it's in my head, most of the time!

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 10:42:05 pm
content: Quote from: Howardlong on December 05, 2014, 10:13:44 pmIf I was going down that route, which I won't because I can't be bothered to write the full part number, I might tryhttp://www.adafruit.com/products/2183In life I've found R.V. Jones' comments on how he ordered his files to be relevant to my life. RV Jones was head of British Scientific Intelligence in WW2, and as a 28yo he argued with Churchill on several occasion, saved several cities from the Luftwaffe by "bending the beams" (Coventry being the infamous exception), ferreted out the V1 and V2 weapons, and eventually wrote a marvellous book "Most Secret War".So how did he organise the UK's scientific intelligence material? Basically he piled his papers into boxes containing roughly connected material, and relied on his memory to find the right box. He had found that if he tried to have a more "organised" system, he spent too long on the filing and lost the serendipity of finding possibly-connected items.So, don't over-organise, just get it roughly right, sort it whe you need it.Must re-re-read Most Secret WarQuoteYes indeed. If you look at the cost of many simple SMD components, it is obvious that a major factor is the time/cost for cutting the right length of tape. Often 100 don't cost that much more than 10!

author: richard.cs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 10:56:15 pm
content: So wen tai is what they're called? I've just had a quick look on google images and whilst not quite the same they're pretty similar to the interlocking boxes with sprung lids we use at work. They're pretty good only we tend to call them "mouse toilets" :-DI certainly prefer them to keeping everything on tape. Through hole stuff mostly goes in drawers.

author: G0HZU
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 11:12:23 pm
content: The best advice I can offer is to 'not' store parts within easy reach of your main seating position. i.e. don't clutter up your main working area with component bins or drawers. Store them somewhere else in a confined space that is well away from the main workbench.This frees up valuable working area for yourself.A lot of people do store parts within easy reach (usually in rows and columns of little pullout storage bins). You often see a really impressive array of hundreds of little storage bins right in front of the operator and it is very tempting to do this but years of experience has taught me that this is a false economy.The same applies to test gear. Don't try and cram all your test gear onto the workbench in one go like a shop display. If you do both of the above you will end up with virtually no working space left for you or your project hardware or to put any temporary tools or temporary hardware.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 11:32:59 pm
content: Quote from: free_electron on December 05, 2014, 04:36:03 pmOoh! I've considered doing that. Maybe I will now.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 12:11:30 am
content: Quote from: c4757p on December 05, 2014, 11:32:59 pmSo where would you put an ADC or DAC, or a digitally-controlled volume control?As with all single-tag-classification systems, in general the classification only tells you where somethingisn't.For example, do I put the end-of-year savings account tax statement in the "savings account" box or the "tax" box? Could be either, but it isn't going to be in the "computer bits" box!

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 12:16:31 am
content: Doesn't matter - it's just a little bit of sorting to keep things somewhat separated, the database is what really matters. And I can sort and resort those however I want.

author: Red Squirrel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 01:25:13 am
content: Quote from: G0HZU on December 05, 2014, 11:12:23 pmThat makes sense, when you do need components you can just go over to wherever you store them then pick out the ones you need. Could maybe keep a small organizer of easy to reach components for common stuff, but that's it. wire leads, and stuff of that nature. Even then I'm planing on building myself a large computer desk, like 7'x3' which will double as a work bench so I could store bins under it and pull out as I need. Might end up just going with original idea and getting a bunch of these:http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-60-drawer-plastic-parts-cabinet-0581084p.html#.VIJYv_i2HZsI could label them on the side and store them back to back and just pull out the one I need like a book. Those things arn't fun when they tip over though... lol. Ex: one unit could be just resistors. Maybe split them off by the first 2 color codes or something. Put value range and color on label to make sorting easier when I have a bunch of lose resistors to put away. For capacitors I could have capacitive ranges or something.Also, do I need to worry about static when dealing with individual components? I can't imagine something like a resistor being static sensitive but a micro controller or any IC type chip on the other hand I'd probably want to store in anti static bags.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 01:38:56 am
content: My common breadboarding parts are organized in small sliding drawers with dividers, sorted by powers of 10. Resistors under 100 ohms, 100-999, 1k-9.9k, etc. Same for capacitors (no distinction between ceramic, film, electrolytic, etc., but if you have a lot, that might be beneficial). Transistors, general purpose NPN, PNP, FET (JFET/MOS, N/P), power NPN, PNP, MOS; diodes plain, zener; assorted ICs; transducers (LEDs, photocells, neon lights, piezo, etc.); fuses; jumper wires.That's just the smaller thingy; a larger one hold bigger components (power transistors and diodes, small heatsinks, larger film and electrolytic capacitors, trimmers and pots, inductors, magnetic cores, etc.).Bigger parts are tossed in various boxes (larger electrolytics, high voltage; low voltage; transformers; etc.).If you have a lot of parts and a lot of drawers, you could go for finer divisions (resistors 1-2.2k, 2.3-4k, 4.1-6k, ...), or individual compartments for each value.I haven't organized my SMT baggies yet, but when I get around to it, those will be filed upright in boxes in a similar order (by value, by family, and so on).Tim

author: all_repair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 01:38:57 am
content: Leave rooms for expansion in your system, sub-system,...folder, sub-folder. Try it and evolve along the way that suit your usage. Different usage frequency ask for different organising method. When I am packing my rat-nest, mostly I am discarding obsolete costly gears, old printed papers, but the packing containers, files, holders are what still relevant and useful. So when come to spending and trying organizer, I have become more adventurous and less mindful of their cost.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 02:15:30 am
content: Quote from: c4757p on December 05, 2014, 11:32:59 pmIt works great for me. if something new comes in it gets a new serial number. donei pre-print labels on a dymo label printer ( 35$ ) i use small 1inch x 1 inch labels they just have the serial number on them.underneath is the same number in barcode. i bought a simple barcode scanner. grab bag - beep -after a while of adding parts i spit out larger labels with the part names on it as well.

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 09:37:52 am
content: One other comment is that some distributors irritatingly use labels where the print fades over time, sometimes it's unreadable only a few months later. I think they're thermally printed or something. Some (but not all) Farnell labels are like that, and I think Digikey at least used to have the same kind of labels. Make sure you write on those in a decent black marker pen the requisite part details before they fade away.

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 09:17:56 pm
content: Mouser had that problem. Then have since fixed it.http://wa0uwh.blogspot.com/2011/08/mouser-fixed-component-bag-labels.html

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 09:41:16 pm
content: I had noticed that with Mouser labels also. I have part bags from them going back over 10 years and some would fade, others were okay. Good that they fixed it.Now if they'd just switch to labels that I could peel off, trim, and reuse on a smaller bag I'd be real happy. The ones they use now stick too tight to remove in one piece, even if heat is applied.

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 10:42:30 pm
content: Has anyone else noticed those red biodegradable anti-static bags? They feel kinda oily. I've dubbed them Durex anti static bags.

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 11:09:57 pm
content: Quote from: Howardlong on December 06, 2014, 09:37:52 amYou can read those completely faded thermal labelsone more timeif you heat them up. Try it by keeping your solder iron close, or heat them with hot-air of even a lighter.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 11:12:04 pm
content: Quote from: IO390 on December 06, 2014, 10:42:30 pmYes, I know the ones that you mean, their texture has reminded me of condoms too.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 02:10:47 am
content: I keep SMD resistors and capacitors and other SMT parts in plastic boxes with lids. I simply write on them what is inside. Labelling is just too much work.I store things like chips and larger components in the bags they came from (usually) Farnell in drawers. I don't put all the components I use in the drawers. I use a plastic box for each project and at the end of a project the components go into the drawers or are discarded in the 'compoment leftovers box'.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 06:04:02 am
content: Quote from: Jeroen3 on December 06, 2014, 11:09:57 pmThe fading depends on the printer used. Those that stay legible for decades used a thermal wax transfer ribbon between the print head and the plain paper label. The others did not use the ribbon, but used a thermal paper with bisophenol A as a thermal dye. Those fade after a while from exposure to air, or even faster in contact with PVC.

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 10:52:48 am
content: Through-hole components are stored in value order in plastic boxes divided into 35 compartments. Fifteen years ago I went to the hardware store and bought twenty of them and it was probably one of the best investments I ever made.SMD components are all stored in two ring binders using 35mm negative holders.Everything else (stuff too large for the above) is stored in labelled boxes then I use 40cm x 70cm x 12cm plastic delivery trays to keep the boxes in reasonable order.Rule #1, never throw anything away."To invent you need a good imagination and a pile of junk". Thomas A Edison

author: Red Squirrel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 11:14:40 am
content: Quote from: German_EE on December 07, 2014, 10:52:48 amSo true... there is so much stuff I have thrown away or let get thrown away that I regret now.Even recently we had 4 32" CRT TVs get thrown away at work, I regret not salvaging the circuit boards at least. And maybe one or two fly back transformers.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 02:57:26 pm
content: You need to be carefull with what you keep. I used to keep way too much so in the last decade I have started to throw a lot of stuff away. The problem is that you can't keep track on what you have so you end up buying new anyway.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 03:25:06 pm
content: Quote from: German_EE on December 07, 2014, 10:52:48 amFor small things, I agree. I always seem to go through a "Why the hell did I keepthis? I'm throwing these out!" phase, and then I invariably end up needing something I threw out. I think that for little bits like SMD parts and small PTH, it's likely best to come up with a way of quickly cataloging them so you know what you have, and then just tossing them in a bin. They don't take up much space.For larger things - I probably won't ever use those couple of 5" video CRTs I've got, or that hard drive controller ISA card, etc etc etc.

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 05:08:38 pm
content: Quote from: German_EE on December 07, 2014, 10:52:48 amFollow this stream to see what happens when you follow Rule #1.https://www.dropcam.com/p/Lvh0CGEvery once in a while you have to break Rule #1, because it will result in an infinitely expanding space requirement.

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 06:07:39 pm
content: I am sticking with rule #1 because the secret is to store your riches after disassembly in an orderly manner where they can be found. All the switches together, all the connectors together, each sorted by type.Old TV sets don't stay around too long because they get pulled apart for all of the useful items including large HV capacitors, power transistors and heatsinks, all of which then get filed away. Do I need the rest? Probably not, the uses for a SCART socket are few but I do have four in a box (with four plugs) just in case.ISA hard drive controllers are handled in the same manner unless you know someone who works with older PCs in which case you may do them a favor. Anyone using the Manhattan method of construction knows what to do with the gold plated fingers on ISA cards as they are just the right pitch for mounting ICs on copper substrate.Finally, a good example of Rule #1. Years ago I purchased a 20-way switch that moved around using a solenoid and a ratchet, it looked interesting but sat unused for years in the switch and relay box. Last year a fellow ham was building an automatic antenna tuner and he was looking for a way to switch the inductor taps. That switch was sold for twenty times its purchase cost and he still went away happy.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 02:31:38 am
content: Quote from: lucaslin on January 30, 2017, 10:54:23 pmYes, I've heard. It is garbage.

author: all_repair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2017, 05:56:31 am
content: Quote from: ataradov on January 31, 2017, 02:31:38 amNice, but fit for school kids doing school project. Not practical for most people.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2017, 06:00:18 am
content: Quote from: all_repair on February 01, 2017, 05:56:31 amNot practical for anyone.I was just trolling the spammer. I've never heard of this thing, but still look like garbage.

author: Mattjd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2017, 06:10:56 am
content: dawg...those smd bins are $30 a pop on amazon. The price to pay for organization...