Fisher & Paykel GW609 Washing Machine fault - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: WaynesWorld
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2020, 03:43:47 am
content: I think I had a similar fault 18 months ago and ended up replacing the motor control board 426974 because I stuffed up and fried the whole board while testing.The machine starts any cycle as normal, but periodically shuts off and will not turn back on for a while, even when mains is disconnected for a minute. After several minutes, it will, and I can continue the cycle by advancing to where I think it stopped... until I reach the final spin dry cycle - Once the motor gets up a couple hundred RPM, it shuts off again. Seems to me a current draw issue?I suspect its a power supply issue but not sure which components to check. There is a burn mark beside one of the fuses but it measures closed even after the unit faults.Does anyone have a link to a circuit diagram?What should I be looking at?I am aware of the water damage to the board. I have checked every track and they all have continuity.(edited to better explain)

author: WaynesWorld
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2020, 01:41:05 am
content: It made a liar out of me somewhat. A few hours later, I tried to complete my wash again and advanced the cycle to spin and waited patiently for it to fail... It didn't! It completed the cycle and allowed me to start another load, which I did this morning - back to failing. Two attempts so far.Any clues?

author: Ed.Kloonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2020, 02:31:31 am
content: Sneak up on it with the screwdriver hidden in your back pocket.

author: Muttley Snickers
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 22, 2020, 03:10:21 am
content: Our top loader recently had a problem where at certain stages during the reverse agitation and spin cycles the motor would cut out and not sound quite right. It turned out to be the combined lid/ balance switch which would go open at the slightest contortion of the machine and I eventually found the problem by applying pressure around the top panel near the controller after testing everything else. The switch itself tested perfectly on a Fluke 83 but showed a rapid intermittent open on a Brymen 235 and I had these switches at hand so it was easy to replace once identified. Lucky for me because at one point I thought I was up for a new washing machine.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2020, 07:13:35 am
content: Quote from: Muttley Snickers on November 22, 2020, 03:10:21 amYep, as Muttley says it's more likely to be a sensor/safety switch fault than a fault on the mainboard.That said, ours went POP one day and it turned out the cylindrical through hole fuse buy the terminal lugs had opened and replacing it with some 5A fuse wire had it running again in no time.Bloody good machine and given us decades of service.

author: WaynesWorld
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2020, 09:41:10 am
content: Bought mine in 1997 when I moved into my first rental.With the board going completely dead for several minutes before coming to life again, would it really be an external sensor?The round black fuse is what I was thinking as it shed some black stuff but it measures OK. I figure its something that is current/heat sensitive that goes OC when OL and once cooled, resets allowing normal operation. Can those plastic fuses do that, or maybe the NTC?