hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
EIKI LC-XB21B /Sanyo PLC-XW57 lamp ballast repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Moij2x
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 11, 2023, 07:33:44 pm
content: EIKI LC-XB21B /Sanyo PLC-XW57 lamp ballast type RPB-7491EA dit not ignite HID lamp.I find diodes D5, D4 and zener CR1 are dead.What type of components can be used for replacement?Diodes are marked as 83A, seen on image.I had not find schematic but traced schematic power part form board, supply power is 280V DC, load is 200W HID lamp.

author: Moij2x
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 12, 2023, 03:21:27 pm
content: Fromhttp://www.fixyourdlp.com/2018/07/28/ignition-and-connections-in-authentic-projector-lamps/I find information that ignition impulse voltage for lamps used in this type of projectors can be about 5000V.Maybe this mean that diodes must have max reverse voltage 2500V? I not find any of so small (case is 5 mm long) diode have so high max reverse voltage.

author: Moij2x
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 13, 2023, 03:39:31 pm
content: Zener marking is also unknown and replacement cannot be find. It is GVY86 or VY86G or Y86GV or ... but Google did not know any of this combinations.

author: Moij2x
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 15, 2023, 07:41:47 pm
content: If CR1 is 86 V zener, did this make sense?Can this schematic then generate HID ignition impulse?
Einhell cc-bc 30 not charging - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: CurrentBitesOnlyOnce
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 09, 2020, 09:53:24 pm
content: Hi ppl,I have charger from the title but is not charging. I got it with blown 50amp fuse at the back, after replacing the fuse still no luck. As far as i could test it i am getting volts but not the amps. With charger plugged in and volt settings on 12 and through all amp settings 1-6 and at the clamps i have 12 voc on dvom, on the scope i have pulsed unfiltered 13-14voc. When i put the clamps at the empty battery (11v) i have around 15v at the clamps but on the ampclamp around positive i got nothing, with dvom on amp setting in series to negative post and clamp i got nothing. Charger's ampmeter shows zero all the time. On ~ terminals of the bridge rectifier i have 13v with the clamps off the battery. If i put shortly the dvom as ampermeter instead of the battery i have up to 50-60 amps at the ampclamp and charger's ampmeter goes full scale. So why no current through the battery (tried several batteries) but there is current through the dvom or shortcircuit? And why 8 diodes in the bridge, i guess for power??

author: CurrentBitesOnlyOnce
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 10, 2020, 06:19:35 pm
content: After more testing looks like everything is fine, looks like all the batteries are bad. On the new battery charger works fine. I was puzzled yesterday because all looked kinda fine but no charging. Was nice talking to myself. Cheers ppl.
EIP 545B frequency counter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rivet_head
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2023, 01:42:10 pm
content: Hey everyone, I have an EIP 545B CCN:2210that needs some attention. First off the only documentation I have been able to unearth that is remotely close to correct is from a 545A CCN:2209. Close but no cigar I'm afraid. Schematics for some of the boards do not match.This unit has the power meter and DAC physically present but does not have the options "installed"Startup checks pass, no E's.Test 01 only works from a dead cold start (reads 200KHz) If the unit warms up Test 01 give no response. Repeatedly running Test 01 from a cold start gives me subsequently lower freq down to zero each time. ie 200.000KHz, 198.xxxKHz, 145.xxxKHz, 98.xxxKHz, 36.xxxKHz, 8.xxxKHz, 2Hz, 0... x's just used as filler.Test 02, 03, 04, 05 all workBand 1 works and is fairly accurate across its range (~2%)Band 2 sporadically responds to some input, and only if I scream at it (100mv) but still nothing consistent.Band 3 I assume dead. Ive tried the output of my tracking generator (10KHz-12.4GHz) and not the slightest blip on the readout.No sign of the obvious failure or magic smoke escape. I have yet to remove any component legs, but my initial focus has been on the A108 board.I can pull and read the ic's if need be.Any input would be greatly appreciated.
EIP 578 (not 578A or 578B) service manual? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: John_ITIC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 11:07:51 pm
content: Hello, I'm repairing my EIP 578 and I have only been able to find the service manual for the 578A or 578B model. Is there one available for the "578" model (not A or B)? My unit just says 578 on the front panel and "578 CCN 2004" on a sticker on the rear. I have already found some differences in my unit from the B service manual so would like to find the exact "578" service manual for my unit to avoid confusion/errors.Someone sells what seems to be the 578 service manual on Ebay for $15 but I thought i'd ask here first.Edit: I bought the one on Ebay as that was for a 578 CCN 2003, almost exactly for my unit. Only one year off so should be very accurate.https://www.ebay.com/itm/EIP-575-578-Microwave-Counter-Operator-Service-Manual/370107485515Thanks,/John.

author: alm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2020, 03:52:09 pm
content: That CD is by Artek Manuals, a very reputable source. You can also buy the manuals cheaper as downloads from his website:https://artekmanuals.com/
Eizo F35 CRT monitor repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: belzrebuth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2023, 03:43:20 pm
content: Hi all,I've dragged my EIZO 15" CRT out of storage only to find out that it doesn't work anymore!It's been years since I've used it so I'm not sure when it was the last time I turned it on.When I turn it on the pwr LED goes from green to orange after some beeping which I believe is normal.I get no signal error messsage, no OSD no image at all.The computer I plugged it in recognised it as EIZO F35 and I'm pretty sure I hear high voltage at power up but I get no image and no other activity.There is nothing out of the ordinary inside the monitor from a quick visual inspection, no bulging caps or funny smells,no liquid spills etc.Any ideas on what might be going on?The board is mostly unlabeled and there is no service manual.I wouldn't normally care for these things but it's a very nice CRT for DOS games so I'd like to see it working again..
EKL HS102 HDMI 1x2 Splitter Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Laz Creations
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 13, 2020, 09:49:53 am
content: Hey guys, I need help identifying a surface mount component on a EKL-HS102-2 HDMI 1x2 Splitter.Stupid me rushing and not paying attention plugged an 18v adapter into the 5v socket which resulted in a loud pop and a faint smell of smoke.After pulling it apart and inspecting everything I noticed a small hole in one of the surface mount components.I am guessing its some type of voltage regulator as its labeled U5 probably a 5v but I am a greenhorn when it comes to surface mount repair and identification and would like to be certain I am repairing it correctly.I can't make out the whole code written on it as it blew out part of it, it starts with "A" and ends with "B005".I have spent the last 2 days trying to find a circuit diagram, picture of the circuit and or looking for a component with a similar code written on it but have had no luck.Any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2020, 09:57:54 am
content: Long wild guess...Had same issues w/those 3 terminal SMD little things..Absolute no info and no clue to get SMD codes...Finally in my case it was a plain 3.3V LDO.Perhaps that is your case - a simple LDO butthe voltage needs to be carefully checkedThe markings on the board I would relate to PCB markingnot related to any chip - unless other info available.Paul

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2020, 10:15:00 am
content: If the input is 5V, the output must be lower so most likely it is a 3.3V linear regulator. Look at the big IC(s) that it supplies and you may find a datasheet with the recommended supply voltage. However, I would be surprised if the rest of the circuit escaped from such an explosive event.

author: Laz Creations
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 13, 2020, 07:24:55 pm
content: Thanks for the reply guys.You guys are right, the major IC(s) seem to be 3.3v, one is an EP9132 HDMI 1.3 Splitter and the other is a EPF011A Generic MCU with 64K Embedded Flash if I looked these up correct and both run at 3.3v.I have done a visual inspection and a basic check of the small components which all seem fine but yes its possible it also fried one of the major IC(s) but that's a bit beyond my knowledge to test.Still cant find anything with the same markings as the blown SMD which makes me paranoid but without more info I may have to risk just trying a replacement with a 3.3v regulator and hoping for the best.Do SMD regulators always have the same pin layout (first pin ground, second Vout, third Vin) or are they like the bigger counterparts where the pins can have different layouts?Included a few more images of the whole board and IC(s) which I should have included in the first post, sorry about the image of the EP9132 IC I couldn't get a clearer picture of it as its very faded.
(solved) DL24MP Identify SOT23-6 smd marking code 169 324 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: selevo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2024, 04:49:10 am
content: solutionhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/el-dl24mp-identify-sot23-6-smd-marking-code-169-324/msg5563845/#msg5563845Hi!This chip in electronic load DL24M, please help me identify it.pin 4 it's out and connected with pin 1 LM321 (on 4pcs lm321)

author: CaptainBucko
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2024, 11:12:14 am
content: Possiblyhttps://product.torexsemi.com/system/files/series/xc6415.pdfbut not realy sure.Here are my notes on the DL24MP- uC is a HC32L176 in a LQFP-48- Bluetooth (Matching) - BPOK228-28A2 (made byhttps://www.zh-jieli.com/#)- FETs are still IRFP264- High Power Diode is a V40100C- Analog to Digital seems to be now be performed by 2 x HLW8110 High Precision Power Metering IC (the wiki below suggests one of them is just used as an ADC ) - Datasheet attached.- FETs are still controlled via LM321 op-amps- ME6203 and ME6118A are used for linear voltage regulation

author: selevo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2024, 04:39:42 pm
content: It's a Shanghai Belling (上海贝岭) BL1551B SPDT analog switch. The package is SC70-6, not SOT23-6. That's why dimensions are important for identification questionshttps://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/718412/identify-sot23-6-smd-marking-code-169-324/718449#718449---------------I also want to add that in the new firmware version (the brain is in the display unit) you can set the power to 3 kW. (in DL24MP) That is, the 600 W limit has actually been removed. If the transistors are moved to larger radiators, the scope of application increases significantly. Of course, it’s not the tracks on the board that need to be strengthened and the diode changed. now I'm just all thisDL24MP and DL24MThe head unit of these electronic loads also differs slightly with small changes. The control module with display from the dl24m load does not work with the DL24MP load, not finished self test on startbut works the other way around.

author: aix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2024, 05:45:42 pm
content: Since you mention the firmware, I thought I'd ask. I have a DL24MP unit that gets stuck at the very start of the boot process, possibly during the self-test (not surewhat else it might be doing while showing that progress bar?) See the attached pic.I wonder if any of you have any suggestions for where to go looking for faults.The unit is in a 300W configuration, with the main board and one expansion. I have an encoder and an on/off button connected to the header above the LED flex cable. (I can remove all that for testing, but it involves a fair amount of disassembly and so I thought I'd ask first.)

author: CaptainBucko
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2024, 01:37:48 am
content: I own two of the DL24MP, but I have never seen that issue. Sorry I cant help further.
Elecrolytic Capacitor Replacement Dilemma - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: stolz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 31, 2020, 07:08:25 pm
content: Hello - I am wanting to replace the 6 larger can electrolytic capacitors in the power supply section of my NAD 2100 stereo amplifier which is about 30 years old. Two of these large electrolytic caps are the four pin snap in type consisting of a terminal for the positive, a terminal for the minus, and 2 terminals for mechanical support. I found 2 possible replacements on Digi -Key and the spec sheets for both of these caps have the following cautions from the manufacturers:"Use dummy terminals for mechanical support only. Make no electrical connection because they resistively connect through the electrolyte to the negative terminal.""Use the blank terminals for mechanical support only. The blank terminals must not be connected to a solder trace on the PC board, but be electrically isolated from the negative or positive terminal."However, my dilemma is that when I look at the underside of the circuit board I can clearly see that these support pins of both of these capacitors are soldered onto traces that lead back to the negative terminal of the capacitors, and clearly this is in complete contradiction to what the manufacturers are saying. Can I safely install these 4 pin capacitors in the SAME WAY as the original ones are soldered in?Could it be that the designers of the NAD amplifier overlooked what the capacitor manufacturers are warning against, or possibly that the way the capacitors were made 30 years ago allowed for the support pins to be soldered to traces that went to the negative pin? Or, could it be that the capacitor manufacturers are just "over warning" against a potential degradation that can happen over time and/or just covering their butts to prevent lawsuits?The amplifier currently is working well and sounds good to me. I am reading in many places that old electrolytic capacitors should be replaced. I am wanting to replace these power supply capacitors to prolong the lifetime of this amplifier and to prevent potential damage that could occur if these capacitors might blow up or get shorted. These capacitors seem to be very slightly rounded (convex) at the top but there are no signs of leakage.Also, would it be reasonable to just replace these 6 large power supply capacitors and leave the other 30 very small electrolytic caps alone, or should I definitely replace ALL of the electrolytics which would be very tedious?Any suggestions or input would be very much appreciated and thank you for your time.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 31, 2020, 07:16:10 pm
content: QuoteAccording to fist warning you can safely connect them to negative terminal.
Electric lawn mower connectors current capacity.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: NOON Design
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2023, 06:51:06 am
content: I've been given an electric lawnmower that stopped working and so far I've found this melted connector that joins the battery to the motor controller internally, so no regular disconnect needed.Everything else seems ok so far, hoping it was just a bit loose and overheated. There are so many connectors available I'm getting a bit overwhelmed and could do with some outside opinions.The motor controller says 800W and the battery is a 36V lithium. 800W at 36V is about 22A, so the connector has to be more than this obviously. How much bigger is a good safety margin? Any recommendations for a readily available (Australia) connector? Even Jaycar has a few high current 60A connectors they recommend for RC.And what is the best way of connecting the wires? Obviously have soldering gear, I only have a very basic crimping tool. Usually high current is crimped as soldered can melt with fault currents.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2023, 07:47:59 am
content: I know the XT series is popular (XT30, XT60, XT90 where the number is the amps rating) for lithium battery packs. Presumably they're designed to handle vibrations without failing. Solder-style (BYO heatshrink). There are both in-line andpanel-mountvariants.LCSC stocks a varietybut you probably want something more local/faster if your grass is getting thick, so the jaycar tax might be OK.No personal experience, sorry. If you don't get much luck here then try some UAV/FPV forums, they will have extensive experience in hooking up lipo packs to high current draws (just like your lawnmower). Also might be worth searching those forums for "XT30 failure" or "XT30 melt" to see if there are some common downsides.EDIT: For solder-on connectors like this I wouldn't necessarily jump to a bigger size. If you don't have a big enough soldering iron then the joint on the bigger connector might be worse than on a smaller connector.
Electric pedestal fan remote control codes. Where to find. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2022, 04:50:53 am
content: Does anyone know where to find the remote control codes for an electric pedestal fan? I can't filter the noise from ceiling fans which are exceedingly common when I try searching. The specific fan is an ARLEC (Australian brand) APF359.I found the fan without a remote and with a broken base when shopping at La Strada (the street). I repaired the base and am curious about getting a simple remote working to emulate a simple on/off low/med/high function.I'm imagining this fan is a rebrand of some generic thing sold in many guises around the world. So any info would be worth trying as a starting point.Thanks.

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2022, 05:31:40 am
content: Well I have a floor fan with a remote. It's Chinese I believe. I could scan its code with my magic Chinese component tester and see what happens, although I never did anything like this before.
electric scooter motor controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rodrigopires
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2023, 03:14:10 pm
content: I'm repairing an electric scooter that presented with no power, no display, nothing. After opening it, check the battery and it was at 27vdc. The controller module had one busted MOSFET and one shorted. Replaced them all with new ones. Everything else looked ok, but I still get no power and no display. The yellow wires have 27vds, but I get nothing on red (I supposed it should be 5vdc). Looking at the PCB I could not locate the 5v reg circuit... Does anyone have experience with these boards that can give me some light?Thanks everyone!
electric shavor battery id - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2020, 08:04:38 pm
content: Hi all ive an electric shaver,it has a nicad battery which is tired,it is the same diameter as a AA cell but only 40mm long,its 600mah,any idea what type this is to order a replacement?

author: Twoflower
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2020, 08:19:31 pm
content: Sounds like a 4/5AA Battery:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_battery_sizes

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2020, 04:09:52 am
content: I have used Panasonic HHR-120AAB23T NiMH 1,150mAh but they are obsolete and hard to find. The 4/5AA size is not popular.I have also used Eneloop/Ikea Ladda AA or AAA NiMH in place of this (if they can fit) because the capacity is equal to or better than old NiCd. Their low self-discharge is great.More shaver battery pictures:https://shaveroutlet.com/shaver-replacement-parts/batteries.html

author: gorge441
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2020, 06:19:30 am
content: I guess you already get the suggestions from fellow members. Anyway, it's 4/5 AA size.
Electric shock from smps adapter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2021, 01:55:38 pm
content: Hi all,I have a multi chemistry AA-18650 charger and it is supplied with a universal voltage 12V 5A, 2-pin mains external adapter.I get shocks from time to time whenever I touch the negative sping loaded pole whenever I try to load the battery.I tried measuring the AC leakage by putting one probe on my finger and another touching the negative pole of the charger, the multimeter indicating ~100Vac. I am not sure if it's the rightway to measure the ac leakage but i did it anyway.I tried measuring a USB port shield of my desktop PC it was ~6.6VAC.I haven't tried breaking open the ultrasonic welded case of the smps adapter, is this worth fixing or should I just replace it. I have zero knowledge how these leakage works.I have repaired plenty of smps so I know how to avoid fatal injuries when repairing them.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2021, 02:08:18 pm
content: That sounds like ordinary Y cap leakage current in the SMPS. You are maybe feeling it more because of the small contact area of the battery spring.If you measure the leakage current to earth and it is about 160uA (for 240V 50Hz mains) then it is about right for a 2200pf Y cap. For safety it is probably best to measure the voltage drop across a highish value resistor rather than immediately using the current range on your meter (just in case there is an insulation fault).
Electric stove component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Krishicall
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 04, 2024, 12:00:34 am
content: Anyone have any idea what this melted component is? No help from the manufacturer. Thanks!

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2024, 12:17:34 am
content: 5uF capacitor. I think this is an intact one:https://www.electroncomponents.com/image/cache/data/Capacitor/EC-MKP-X2-5UF-275V-AC-400V-DC-cooker-capacitor-500x500.jpgLook for "induction cooker capacitor", these wouldn't be sold so prominently if they weren't common failure items...

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2024, 12:18:28 am
content: I truly don’t mean this to be rude, but if you cannot figure out what kind of component that is (resistor, capacitor, inductor, etc), given that both the component and PCB have markings that give it away, you probably shouldn’t be working on mains-powered equipment yet.If your question is whatvaluethe component is, that’s a different matter.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2024, 12:20:18 am
content: Some clues here:https://fccid.io/ZBNC18-16/Internal-Photos/Internal-Photos-5293067.pdfEdit:I think this is the manufacturer:https://en.cgegd.com/product/14/

author: cruff
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2024, 01:37:56 am
content: Did the capacitor fail due to heating caused by a bad connection at the screw terminal?

author: Krishicall
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 05, 2024, 03:00:15 am
content: Not sure, I havent taken it apart yet, but its probably too damaged to tell. I doubt it as the stove never moved and lasted several years.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2024, 09:20:13 am
content: It might help to see photos of the other similar capacitors(s).Edit:https://cg-capacitor.en.made-in-china.com/product/bOdtpWIHbJVa/China-Cg-5UF-400V-MKP-X2-for-Induction-Cooker.htmlhttps://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00morgsViGbtbC/Cg-5UF-400V-MKP-X2-for-Induction-Cooker.webp(photo)

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2024, 09:59:44 am
content: From the bulging, that capacitor self-healeda lotbefore it melted. it looks like runaway self-healing rather than direct heat from the terminal to me. Of course an intermittent connection could have caused lots of transients that could have killed it indirectly.Given the power levels involved, that PCB needs serious rework (no image of the track side) in order to safely handle the high current. Likewise the wire termination.
Electric Toothbrush: Guesstimate resistance - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2020, 09:24:31 pm
content: OK... another repair fail... I have tried to replace the battery in my electric toothbrush and that part went well but it won't charge when on the base.The unit charges via a coil of wire in the base which sits on a base station... I'm wondering if I broke something along the way..... my question... What would you expect the resistance of the wound copper wire to be? I measure 1.7 Ohms does that sound legit or could I have shorted the windings somehow? It's just copper wire right?PSI wish I had measured it at the beginning

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2020, 11:44:53 pm
content: Looking at the spool 1.7 ohms sounds fine...Don't you have a LC meter to throw on it?What model is it? I have a Philips reject somewhere I may be able to check on.

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2020, 11:30:41 am
content: I actually discovered the problem.... the coil was fine but in the process of removing the PCB to replace the battery a small component had fallen off the board near the plastic retaining lug that hold the board in... I suspected something was up by looking at the appearance of the tiny pads... Anyway I made a huge guess and decided it was a diode that is missing somewhere around my house and had a go at replacing it with a SOD-323 Shottky I had in parts, slightly too big... but it fits and now it charges!It works!Moral of that story.... be very careful hinging out the PCB!

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2020, 05:11:19 pm
content: Makes sense, there's gonna have to be a diode to rectify the output of the charging coil.I had a toothbrush like that years ago. I was unsuccessful in getting it apart non-destructively so I replaced it with the much cheaper $20 Sonicare that uses ordinary AA cells that I charge externally. I swap the cells with a charged pair once a month and it's always good to go.
ELECTRO VOICE ZLX12P INPUT BOARD schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: xavlaur
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2022, 02:22:45 pm
content: Hello,do anyone have ELECTRO VOICE ZLX12P INPUT BOARD schematic ?Power supply diagram it is available online but power supply is working fine, on mine there is no display and no controll at all, only backlightThanks a lot.

author: Audiorepair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2022, 03:29:55 pm
content: https://elektrotanya.com/electro_voice_zlx_15.pdf/download.htmlFunny, was looking at one this morning.No schematic for the power amp section though.
Electrolux E30EW7CESS2, relay board failure. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2023, 06:30:19 pm
content: I'm attempting tp repair a friends Electrolux E30EW7CESS2 stove / oven. The convection element and halogene light don't work. Could this be a problem related to the relay board ? If so, what on the relay board usuall fail?Thanks in advance!

author: victorb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2024, 08:56:34 pm
content: In my case, the convection element and halogen light weren’t working, and I suspected the relay board too. I checked the relays and found some burnt-out components and faulty connections, which are common failures.I tried replacing the relays myself, but after a lot of troubleshooting and testing, I decided to call in the pros fromMilton Appliance Repair. They have the expertise and tools to handle these repairs efficiently. It cost me around $200, but it was worth it to get everything running smoothly again.
Electrolux EHL7640 induction cooktop - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mrrcomp
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2023, 09:45:13 am
content: HIanyone have experience in trying to fix this appliance.? i haven't found a service manual yet ..My friend has one that 2 of the burners arent working. should i attempt to open and repair??Looking forward to your responses
Electrolux Induction cooktop replacement parts? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lastguy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2021, 04:59:02 pm
content: Seek help on obsolete IGBT(IXGR40N60C2D1 ) and broken neighbor diode(glass SMD) replacement.1.Got from ebay but faked, non-isolated pad IXGR40N60C2D1, I have insulation pad (thin film for CPU use) but a bit worry on its heat resistance or reduce power rating. Said induction cooktop has 90% efficiency, then 2.5KW head might have 250W heat shared by IGBT and rectifier?2.Second time I focus on the printing style and got confirmation from seller but I found photo and listing title are different, I might get IXGR60N60C2D1 with higher or doubled Ciss, can I use it to replace IXGR40N60C2D1 or even IXGR32N60CD1 (smaller cook head)?3.I broken one diode near by the IGBT, anybody knows its part#? could it be a 18V zener at the base input of IGBT?4.any replacement part# for IXGR40N60C2D1? I check other parts from say ST, but IXGR has faster speed.
Electronic Ballast LGT8236D-A2 - Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: electronbean
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2023, 10:47:13 pm
content: How should I test this electronic ballast? I should probe between pin 1 and pin 3 and get 230VAC? (see this image:https://ibb.co/dK5pRsg)This electronic ballast crashed after I switch lamp to other (wrong lamp). The wrong lamp blink and after this didn't work and the other correct lamp doesn't work either. (after first wrong lamp I went to the shop and buy a correct lamp).I tear down the electronic ballast (see this image:https://ibb.co/V9byYgzandhttps://ibb.co/sQJCH8g) and tried detect which component fail. I think the problem is on TBJ 13007 (see this image:https://ibb.co/m8PrCZY). I measurement between pins and get this values (see this imagehttps://ibb.co/Ptzgmp3):2 and 5 = Collector3 and 4 = Base1 and 6 = EmitterU32=360VU12=360VU45=0VU56=128VAny thought what can I do and try to fix this equipment?Thank you in advance.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2023, 10:58:22 pm
content: It's probably an MJE13007 or one of its many clones.http://www.unisonic.com.tw/datasheet/MJE13007.pdfI found some application notes that might help:https://www.st.com/resource/en/application_note/an527-electronic-fluorescent-lamp-ballast-stmicroelectronics.pdfhttps://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/AN1543-D.PDF

author: electronbean
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2023, 12:38:36 pm
content: Thank you for your reply and help.Do you think the problem could be from transistor?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2023, 04:24:51 pm
content: You need to test the transistor using the diode range of your meter.

author: electronbean
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2023, 04:47:41 pm
content: Can I test the transistor directly on the board? Or I should desoldering the component before test them?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2023, 04:50:10 pm
content: Quote from: electronbean on January 29, 2023, 04:47:41 pmTest it on the board first.

author: Tantratron
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2023, 05:55:48 pm
content: Back in 2019, I had tested and compared 4 ballasts model for a customer for 58W fluo lamp about special R&D project. Yours are for 36W fluo lamp but it does not matter in your repair. The 4 ballasts were HowLong, Sylvania, Osram and Philips, some are instant starts, other cannot work if not attaching 2 fluo tubes.The good news for you, the HowLong is very special circuit which you can run only one fluo tube and short the filaments plus it has an analog PFC (no chipset used) so old school ballast which you can tweak.N.B. When you did connect the ballast prior the failure, did you connect one or two fluo tubes ?
Electronic Component Testing Cheatsheet - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sausage
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2022, 11:50:53 am
content: I've finally finished my cheatsheet for testing electronic components. This was originally made for myself as fast reminder how to test certain components all in one place, but I've schooshed it up for public use. The intended audience is for beginners and intermediate repairers, menders, etc, not really for EEs or experts:https://blog.waynejohnson.net/doku.php/electronic_component_testing_cheatsheetI hope this can serve as a handy reference.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2022, 06:44:32 pm
content: Gas Discharge Tubes are meant to have a very high impedance below their breakdown voltage, not zero ohms. They are typically connected across a supply or a cable run exposed to lightning, etc.Quote

author: sausage
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2022, 08:32:39 pm
content: Thanks fzabkar, will fix this.

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2022, 09:01:51 pm
content: Bourns gas-discharge tube surge arrestors are rated for 75 to 600 V breakdown (depending on part number), so they will be impossible to test with a normal DVM.

author: sausage
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2022, 10:17:38 pm
content: I've removed this component for now.
Electronic keyboard freezes on startup. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Yamin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2023, 07:30:13 pm
content: Hi guys, I have got a Nord Electro 2 in for repair.History of the unit and fault:The unit is around 15 years old. Around an year back one fine day when it was in use the player heard a pop from the inside with smell of smoke, it was turned off and kept.After couple of weeks the owner turned it on and it was working for a bit and then the unit freezes. After cycling the power it works for a bit and freezes. Cycling the power sometimes gets it to work and sometimes it doesn’t.The unit was brought to me and when I opened up I found what had smoked. It was C3 (Rifa caps in the power supply across primary side of the transformer).I changed the both of the line filter caps. I also changed the electrolytic filter caps C5, C7, C9 as I noticed a bit of ripple when measured.It didn’t rectify the problem. The unit freezes on start up and sometimes remains unresponsive. After cycling the power the same thing happens but random LED lights up.Here is a link for a video showing what happens. Note that when pressing the one button other parameters changes and the on/off doesn’t turn off it goes from dim to bright.https://www.youtube.com/shorts/whPIeDd0htkI suspected that it was an improper reset pulse. IC U27(SP705) - I read the datasheet and on power up the reset pin should be low for 200ms, but I measure about 400ms of low pulse. Little bit of side note here - since I thought it was this IC which was faulty I removed it and wired in Arduino programmed for the 200ms low pulse when power up is detected. The waveform I measured was the Arduino output pin tries to go high after the 200ms but something in the unit tries to keep it low till the 400ms is elapsed.Its like a step wave. I resoldered the IC back.So far I have checked the voltage pins at the controller MC68331 for ripple but looks clean. There is a clean sine wave at the crystal. One thing I have noticed is that the chip select doesn’t cycle through it remains static. After cycling the power the chip select might shift and remain frozen.I was wondering if you guys could point to what to look for next and troubleshoot the issue.Thanks in advance.
Electronic Load BK 8540 Fried due to wrong polarity - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: AndrewJCS
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 14, 2023, 09:47:55 am
content: Hello, I have accidentally fried a resistor on my my BK Precision 8540.I believe the resistor is from a snubber circuit. It's R2 (attached picture) and it's measuring around 2.2ohms in its fried state, but I believe it should be more like 100-200ohms.I don't suppose anyone here has this particular load and could take it apart to verify? It would be much appreciatedThanks!

author: bastl_r
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2023, 09:36:38 pm
content: But this could also be a fuse resistor!And then the resistance value would be in the expected order of magnitude.regards

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2023, 10:15:48 pm
content: well the first value is brown it looks like, that is a 1.I bet a 110 ohm resistor would work. Wanna bet its generic? Something between 100 and 140.

author: bostonman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2025, 01:52:20 am
content: Did you solve this?My unit is currently disassembled (and broken), so I can take a photo if you'd like.
Elektronikon MK3 battery replacement / DFM4WIN problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mamfak
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 01, 2019, 03:14:27 pm
content: Hi guys,I’m having a problem with programming an Elektronikon mk3 with DFM4WIN.The compressor type is ZR425.Since the battery was dead, the battery and its IC (m48t02) have been replaced.After replacing the IC I have tried to download the program by DFM4Win. (By ZR300-750 data files)However the data files should be correct, it was not downloading anything to the moduleAt the first try the following error was displayed:What I have done after this is, I have programmed the m48t02 IC directly by a IC programmer.I have put “ffff” every where except the time and date location.The display of Elektronikon showed this :After doing so I was able to download to the MAIN Module by DFM4win.But after a while when it should start downloading to the SIOE Module, the following error appears.“Module does not change mode”This is a video of what is happening and the errorAs I understand well, the download to the Main module is successful and without any problem.And if I understand well the program successfully has been downloaded to the following IC’s :- m48t02- am28f010-am28c256But downloading to the SIOE module is not possible and the error is because the software is not able to download to the SIOE module. The following IC’s exist on the SIOE module :-28c64- 28f010- 27c256What else can I try?What could be the problem?Am I doing something wrong?Is this a DFM4win datafiles problem? Or is this a hardware problem?Do I need to program the mt48t02 with a specified “.bin” file instead of “fff”?Thanks in advance for all your help and advice, I really appreciate it.
ELGAR CW801P AC Source - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: giovannirat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2022, 07:39:34 pm
content: I managed to buy an ELGAR CW801P AC Source.Unfortunately it is not working. I would really appreciate if someone could provide me a service manual, I didn't find nothing on the Internet.Thank you very much.
ELSEMA gate opener crystal - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: highflyer83
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 12:49:38 am
content: Hello all,I have a couple ELSEMA gate openers with a common problem, the legs on the through hole crystals keep cracking and breaking. I'm trying to order a handful of spare crystals to have on hand for when this happens, but having trouble with this. The crystals that are broken are labeled "6.786 KDV3Z" but I can't find anything online that has this same label. Any thoughts as to where to get these? Assuming I can get these crystals, my thought is to solder the new ones onto the FOB boards then apply a dab of hot glue or similar to try to have them last longer, that should be fine hey?Thank you.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 05:11:11 am
content: Could we see a photo?

author: highflyer83
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 06:34:07 am
content: For sure, try this onehttps://drive.google.com/open?id=1CIb1k7D-3IBmrgB4uL6sFHlchTADfDdxYou can make out the broken legs, one is easy to see, the other is just left of it going towards that IC with scraps of old glue/tape on it, that was holding the crystal.

author: L_Euler
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 01:17:37 pm
content: Solder the new one in with a couple leg extensions so they can flex a bit.

author: highflyer83
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 10:14:54 pm
content: The challenge is finding "the new one." How exact does a replacement need to be as far as its labeled frequency? I can't find this exact number anywhere.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 10:25:02 pm
content: When I needed a special crystal decades ago, I had one custom cut by Hy-Q.https://hy-q.com.au/crystals/index.htmhttps://hy-q.com.au/pdf/Hy-Q%20Crystal%20Data.pdfOne other solution might be to replace the crystals in the transmitter and receiver with more commonly available matched pairs.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 11:56:19 pm
content: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citizens_band_radioI suspect that the crystal frequency may be multiplied by 4 to give 27.144MHz.A frequency of 27.145MHz is assigned to Radio Control Radio Service (RCRS) channel 15A.Edit:If you multiply by 64, the frequency becomes 434.304MHz.434.300 MHz is channel 50 in the LPD433 band.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LPD433"LPD is also used in vehicle key-less entry device, garage or gate openers and some outdoor home weather station products."

author: L_Euler
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2019, 12:13:57 am
content: Looks like these guys have the right frequency:http://ec91100103.sell.everychina.com/p-100239169-6-786mhz-hc-49s-quartz-crystal-resonator.html

author: highflyer83
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 24, 2019, 02:33:17 am
content: That is what is happening. There is a ICS501 set up to give 4x multiplier on the crystal.
Elysium lx160b Pro need help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Jogas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2019, 03:25:19 pm
content: Need help.in new to forumHow I can upload photo here.My lipo charger have 26v output strait when plugged into wall mains.is that possible that one of fz44ns gone bad.thanks

author: Jogas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2019, 09:25:47 am
content: When plugged to mains I measuring 26v output.i think this shouldn't be like that.help please if any have some ideas.thanks
EMCO 3301B FET - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: charliedelta
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2019, 10:12:34 am
content: Anyone the type of FET used in the Emco 3301B rod antenna amplifier?I have a unit with a blown FET. While I could adapt the circuit the point is with the original FET type the antenna can remain relatively calibrated.The FET in this antenna was alledgedly handpicked and was extremely ESD sensitive.Any advice or opinions welcome.
Emergency motor start capacitor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Audiorepair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2022, 11:47:45 am
content: Hi, a mechanic friend of mine is in trouble, the lift motor start capacitor on his 4 poster car lift needs replacing, and he only has one lift so now cannot work.The old one is 250vAC, 260uF, which I can't find locally.He has a 250v 100uF capacitor though. What would happen if he tried to fit this? Would it blow up, not work, what?I know absolutely nothing about motors and start capacitors.Please help if you can, he has no business right now.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2022, 11:53:01 am
content: Yep worth a try.The value is not critical. All that it needs is the phase shift from the capacitor to start the motor into a certain direction. A too small capacitor will simply provide less starting torque.

author: Audiorepair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2022, 12:09:12 pm
content: Thanks for the quick reply, I've let him know.He's found one on Amazon, so should be fully back up and properly running tomorrow.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2022, 06:42:56 pm
content: I would be tempted to follow that up with a decent quality brand capacitor from a distributor (at least as a spare).Amazon aren't renowned for the quality of their capacitors.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2022, 06:54:00 pm
content: I'd expect it will work fine. If you have a critical application like this it's always prudent to keep a spare capacitor on hand. It's a common failure item, I had to replace the capacitor in my mom's heat pump and then in mine a few years later, those usually fail on the hottest day of the year when you really need air conditioning and the repair companies will gouge the hell out of you since they know people who are desperate will pay. It's a $10 part so I always keep a spare on the shelf. Any electric motor shop and many electrical trade counters should have have a suitable replacement in stock.In some cases, such as the pumps in my hot tub, the capacitors are not starting capacitors but are there for power factor correction.
Emergency New Year Eve TEAC digital TV decoder repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: manicdoc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 09:39:28 pm
content: Around 11pm last night had to set the media room up to show the Sydney midnight fireworks and the TEAC digital TV decoder was not powering on... Major family fail coming...Had 60 minutes to effect a repair and managed to do so with 25 minutes to spare. Turns out a handful of elec caps had gone bad and bulged. Luckily I have a reasonable stock on hand. One even had blown its top, which was loose in the case, but no sign of electrolyte anywhere... Must have slowly baked itself to death.I measured resistances around the power rails, all checked out, powered it up and it came back to life. Happy family!Happy New year to you all!
Emerson BCR129 Rev B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: kane198021
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 08, 2020, 05:34:05 am
content: Hello all!Since this is my first post, allow me to introduce myself. My name is Jeramy and i'm 40 years old. I'm a "jack of all trades" kind of guy, so my knowledge of specific subjects/topics/technical fields is minimal. The two that I do know best are PC repair and Automotive repair. Basic plumbing comes up behind that.I wasn't sure if this should have gone into the beginner's section or repair, but I chose this one to see if anyone could help me make heads or tails of this annoying issue with my Emerson TV. I'm not even sure if the silly thing is color or B&W. The problem I'm having is the fact that the screen doesn't have a stable picture. I did open it up and I found the pots to adjust the vertical and horizontal holds, but adjustment did nothing to change it whatsoever. I did notice that a capacitor (25v, 2200uf) had a slightly domed top. that was the only obviously bad component I observed. The rest of the unit is very clean. Could that one capacitor be the problem? If it isn't, what then?I did get a copy of the service manual, but it doesn't seem to be the correct one for my TV. I've attached a copy of said manual so that everyone can see it.Note: My TV only has 3 buttons on the front.(The cool thing is that it has a built-in AM/FM radio!)