Electronic door lock with RFID reader (project) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 15, 2024, 05:02:08 pm
content: Hi everybody!I'm a novice when it comes to working with electronics, I do some soldering and smaller projects, but I have no education in the field whatsoeverAfter an "active" shopping evening on Aliexpress I got home a bag of items that I somehow need to fit together, but I seem to have hit a wall...I want to make an electronic door lock with a RFID reader for a small shed, and everything needs to run on 12 volt.I got this access control card:New in TM access control Set Module for Wiegand or DALLAS RFID Touch Memory Reader with Master Card 12V Door Contact Lock Systemhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005514666301.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.34.21ef1802hkkyJtAnd this door lock:Wooden gate door Electric Mortise DC 12V Fail Safe Electric Drop Bolt Lock for Door Access Control Security Lock Doors Systemhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/32871047509.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.39.21ef1802hkkyJtThe programming of the access cards seem to have worked, I can hear the relay clicking when I "scan" the correct tag, but I get no reaction from the lock.I got the manual for the control board, but I wonder if the control board and the door lock are compatible, it seems like it needs a door contact sensor of some sort (connected to D_IN), but I have no such feature on my lock.https://jumpshare.com/s/th1BqPRNsIo70Pnfu3pt(link to PDF manual for controller card)Do I need to buy another lock/controller board?, or is it possible to get them to play together?[/url

author: Manul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2024, 09:10:56 pm
content: It looks like that thing has only one relay, so it must be for switching lock solenoid. If you hear relay click I assume the problem is not with door status switch.Your lock seems to lock when it receives 12V through red and black wires and unlock otherwise. Confirm that. I don't know what other two wires do.So I assume you need to connect black wire to GND, red wire to Relay NC and Relay COM to DC+, which is 12V.Sorry, I don't have strengh to follow wiring in your pictures, which are not very clear, also I'm partly colorblind and I hate following a mess of tangled colorful wires.

author: sparkydog
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2024, 09:25:04 pm
content: The way these lock controllers work is fairly simple.You have a relay to control the lock; those are the COM, NC and NO terminals. When the system is "locked", COM and NC should be connected. When you trigger an unlock, COM and NO should become connected for a bit (about a second, usually adjustable by a pot on the controller). Before doing anything else, you should test that this is working as expected with a multimeter in connectivity mode and nothing else connected to COM/NC/NO. If you're hearing the relay, you're probably good.I'm not sure what the other terminals on the controller are for, but EXIT is almost certainly for a momentary switch to trigger an unlock without needing a card. The others might be optional.The real mystery is how that lock is supposed to work. Normally, these controllers are connected to a lock that is either powered continuously and deenergized to "unlock" (i.e. an electromagnet that keeps the door closed), or a solenoid that retracts a locking lug when it's powered. (Although "fail safe" suggests the lug onlyengageswhen powered, which is also an option.) Both such devices would be connected in a simple circuit like PSU VCC → Controller Relay → Lock → PSU GND. I have no idea whatfourwires would be doing on that lock. You'll need to find a readable manual for how to connect that.

author: eblc1388
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2024, 11:31:11 pm
content: Quote from: Jim on January 15, 2024, 05:02:08 pmThe link you've provided shows two types of deadbolt. Once is "fail safe" and the other is "fail secure". The fail safe one will unlock when power is gone. Both types will work with your controller board. You would just need to wire them to the NO or NC terminals instead.It looks like you would need to get a magnetic door sensing switch to activate the lock and a simple push button to acts as the 'exit' button when you are inside the shed and the door is locked. However, these may not be needed if you select the controller to operate in "Triggering Mode" via jumper J4, in that case, you would need to swipe the card once to unlock and then swipe to lock the shed door, just like using a normal padlock.Check your wiring carefully according to the following diagram, especially the jumper between "GND" and "COM" terminal. I opted to remove unnecessary details and added some missing wire connections.

author: Jim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2024, 05:10:48 pm
content: Great success!!I got it to work perfectly when I wired it according to your instructions eblc1388.Sorry I didn't realise that the link showed multiple types of locks, the one I have is the fail safe kind.Thank you everybody for the help!

author: sparkydog
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2024, 05:28:55 pm
content: Hmm, I would have wired the controller between +12V and the lock (i.e. COM and DC+ bridged, lock connected to NC and the PSU's GND). 🤷Did you figure out what the other two wires on the lock are for?

author: Jim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2024, 05:36:40 pm
content: Unfortunately the two extra wires remain a mystery...

author: eblc1388
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2024, 01:02:04 am
content: Quote from: Jim on January 16, 2024, 05:36:40 pmThe two remaining wires probably are dry contacts for dropbolt position status feedback. Connect a digital ohmmeter/continuity tester to them and see if the continuity reading changes while operating the lock.

author: liaifat85
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2024, 02:12:44 pm
content: Can be a power supply shortage.