hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
4.3" e-ink trekstor Pyrus mini, anyone info on how to "abuse" it ? :) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Polossatik
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2014, 09:06:46 pm
content: I found this little trekstor Pyrus mini e-reader for 30€here -( DE store ), so got 2 one for the girlfriend and one for opening up /messing around but can't find much info about it.It would be nice to be able to display stuff on it trough usb or so.if anyone google-fu (or brain) has any tips/info/read this/look here then that would be most welcomespecs:4.3''active Matrix E-Paper Display Module (model OPM043A2 ),800x600, 232ppisupposedly made by "Digital Ink"found only one page for that model nr:http://www.oedtech.com/product/content.aspx?menuid=02020101this "GDE043A2" display ( 27$) seams to be just the same:http://www.good-display.com/products_detail/&productId=85d00e8b-0782-4d45-b004-1e3ea638ec79.htmlhttp://www.buy-lcd.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=12515&search=GDE043A2Main CPU/SoC: F1 E200 B6077BA 26P1 (Allwinner Technology F1 E200)http://linux-sunxi.org/E200http://www.allwinnertech.com/%7Btypedir/%7D/F1E200.htmlRAM: Samsung K4H511638J (512MBit / 64MByte DDR SDRAM)NAND flash: Samsung K9GAG08U0E (16GBit / 2GByte)Battery management: KrossPower AXP199 A5004AB 36GRTC/clock/calender chip (I2C): HYW8563S1000Mah Lipo , micro Sd slot, micro usb port , no wifisimilar (besides e-ink and smaller) to TrekStor eBook Reader 3.0 ? Prestigio Nobile PER3172Bhttp://www.hermann-uwe.de/taxonomy/term/2388seams to run a custom os called " Melis 2.0 "some pics of the inside (nothing special)here
Hakko tip question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2014, 07:09:51 pm
content: I bought a 'HAKKO 900M-T-3C' but I'm pretty sure it is a counterfeit (it already has corrosion and the laser etching is poor compared with that on my other tips). I could live with that but I bought it as the Hakko web site shows that the tip is suitable for drag soldering but there is no well in this tip. Should there be ?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2014, 01:12:48 am
content: A genuine one wouldn't have a well either; if you want one you should choose the T-3CM.http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_900m.html#type_bcm_cmhttp://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type_bcm_cm.html

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2014, 10:10:26 am
content: Thanks. They look virtually impossible to buy in the UK or on eBay from the Far East though.

author: gmit77
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2014, 09:13:42 am
content: ciao netdudeuk, we still take 900 series tip on stock.in case we can help just drop me a message on the models required and we will take care of you.thanks!

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2014, 02:19:36 pm
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on October 05, 2014, 10:10:26 amHave you tried dancap.co.uk?Assuming you've no luck in Europe or the UK, you could get them from the US as a last resort.TEquipment still has them for example (here), and they will ship internationally.I mention this, as I've seen a notice that the T18 series is going to replace the 900M series, and when I checked Hakko's site, there's no T18 series drag tip with a well in it. Just smooth bevel shapes that you're not happy with, and others of course (they do offer a knife, which also works for drag soldering).
Fluke 8600A bench multimeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 11:54:24 pm
content: I got this oldie from ebay the other day, the seller sold it as untested but it works without a flaw.Last calibration sticker on it was from 1987 and another one claiming it as "untested" from 1993.I think it was made in or slightly after 1977 as most CMOS chips have '77 as datecode on them. There are two newer IC's in there and there's evidence of quite serious repair work on the board. All professionally done, though.It is basically the bench top version of the 8040A, functionality, buttons and display are exactly the same but the circuit differs quite significantly. Oddly the 8600A seems to be much higher integrated, only the Fluke ASIC and a hand full of 4000 series and some opamps for the analogue stuff. The 8040A has about 20 4000 series chips in it.One interesting bit is the display board. It is a very thin rigid board bent 90 degrees, not a flex board in the traditional sense.Here's how it compares to the 8040A of similar vintage and my one year old BK 2709. Not bad for 30-odd years, I'd say.

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2012, 01:07:53 am
content: Nice pictures and what a nice-looking specimen. Thanks for posting. Now I want one!

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2012, 01:14:02 am
content: Quote from: ModemHead on November 04, 2012, 01:07:53 am@david77. Great job and beautiful photos. I'm going to have to disable pictures in my browser because now I'm looking at ebay auctions.

author: grumpydoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2012, 12:20:51 pm
content: QuoteI've a couple awaiting repair, I suspect postage to the 'states would kill any deal though!

author: jeroen74
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2012, 02:15:27 pm
content: I still have this 8000A that's in atrocious state, but there is still some life left in it

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2012, 03:10:31 pm
content: Oh man, why don't you clean it? It hurts to see it in this state.

author: jeroen74
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2012, 03:19:31 pm
content: The outer shell casing is severely cracked too and while it works, I believe the converter is broken so it's unusable. But yeah, maybe I could give a clean

author: xchg.ca
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2014, 09:41:06 pm
content: Guys, any ideas where can I find schematic for this one ?

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2014, 12:54:09 pm
content: Quote from: xchg.ca on October 05, 2014, 09:41:06 pmhttp://assets.fluke.com/manuals/8600a___imeng0300.pdf

author: xchg.ca
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2014, 02:01:54 am
content: Quote from: ModemHead on October 06, 2014, 12:54:09 pmThank you! This is it!
GoPro Hero 4 Testing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 09, 2014, 02:03:57 pm
content: First test was low light performance:2nd test was battery life. Initial battery testing gave 1hr 40mins battery life with continuous recording 1080P Superview 60fps with LCD always on at Medium brightness, and outside of case at 20degC ambient. That included 3 stops and formats of the small SD card I used.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2014, 02:11:49 pm
content: I'm no camera guy, but despite a bit of graininess, the Hero 4 low light looked "more visible" to me. Maybe slightly brighter is the right term.

author: sacherjj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2014, 02:43:41 pm
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on October 09, 2014, 02:11:49 pmIt looks like the GoPro is brighter, but the Sony keeps the contrast. It might be possible to pull the Sony up in post, if it is less noisy, and actually look better that the same brightness.

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2014, 03:01:58 pm
content: The Gopro is more noisy, but it also shows more details: On the Gopro you can see individual stones on the street while the Sony only shows a more or less gray surface.I would prefer the GoPro image, because it shows more details in dark regions. A little bit of noise is ok, but a blurred image is annoying.

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2014, 03:40:27 pm
content: So much of the video is blurbed its hard to judge the noisiness. Were both cameras having trouble with their autofocus?
Cheap Chinese crap disappoints, again... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2014, 10:22:13 pm
content: Installed about 70 wall sconcess LED lights in Cambridge last year. This is what you get after 7 months of use. 15 of them did ....puffffff . Luckily manufacturer send a free ballast replacement.

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2014, 12:30:58 am
content: QuoteIf you bought expensive Chinese crap and it did this, I would have sympathy for you.As far as I am concerned, this a perfect example of high cost of low prices.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2014, 06:23:06 am
content: in other words you got 15 power supplies at the cost of one cap each
Dataman-40Pro: power supply issue ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: CRi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 03, 2014, 01:08:41 pm
content: Hi everyone,I have just bought a Dataman-40Pro eprom programmer and I'm having some problems with it.The first time I connected the programmer, everything went fine. When I disconnected it, I felt an electric shock (I was touching the case of the computer and the USB cable coming from the programmer). The second time I connected the programmer, it was dead, not recognized by Windows (USB device unknown) !Upon further investigation, I discovered that the negative side of the power supply is floating at 85V AC above earth potential!I measured a 85v AC potential between the ground of the usb cable coming from the Dataman and the case or usb ground on the computer side.I ordered a second unit and the symptoms are exactly the same !Dataman support basically told me "that's ok, it's how floating PSU work"... but I'm clearly not satisfied with this answer.What do you think, is it defective ?If that really is "how it's supposed to work", what can a do to prevent it to break again?Thanks in advance !CRi

author: denelec
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2014, 08:55:30 pm
content: I checked with my desktop computer and there is continuity between ground, the case and the negative (black wire) of the power supply.That's what I expected.But my MacBookPro has no ground connexion. And the plug is not polarized. So it's floating.

author: CRi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 03, 2014, 09:40:20 pm
content: Hi denelec, thanks for checking !My computer is a dell notebook and it is grounded...The problem comes from the dataman PSU that is floating.Can I safely connect the Dataman case to earth? Or am I going to encounter earth loop issues?

author: CRi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 06, 2014, 12:41:21 pm
content: No one has any idea about his?
Alternative use for the Atten 858D reflow station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: halexa
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2014, 02:23:24 pm
content: Just an house hold tip for the Atten 858D reflow station or any other reflow station.Its perfect for burning of the meringue on a key lime pie.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2014, 02:59:02 pm
content: A nice alternative use, better than my method of using a MAPP torch.

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2014, 05:27:40 pm
content: I normally use my heat gun, but thanks for the laugh

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 04, 2014, 07:47:18 pm
content: Were you planning to share that pie with us?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2014, 07:56:16 pm
content: Certainly, just come over!

author: Fred27
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 04, 2014, 08:33:17 pm
content: I can't recommend using one for crème brulée. It tends to blow sugar all over your workbench.

author: Jorpy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2014, 09:32:34 pm
content: Quote from: Fred27 on October 04, 2014, 08:33:17 pmI can confirm that! Luckily I took the station to the crème brulée in the kitchen instead of the reverse

author: sweesiong78
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2014, 10:00:52 pm
content: Quote from: halexa on October 04, 2014, 02:23:24 pmI hope that station has not been used for leaded solder jobs....

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2014, 06:40:24 am
content: Why, it blows hot air, it does not suck. Nothing touches the hot air exit, you use a nozzle to reduce it for soldeing, but for cooking you will remove it.
Verteq MSD350 MF "Amplifier" teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: samofab
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2014, 09:30:55 am
content: Well,Sometime you have an idea that hasn't completely evolved yet and you browse the internet for things that may help that idea. And if things happen to be relatively cheap you buy them :-)The idea was to make a plasma glow in a jar. One of the typical ways to ignite a plasma is to use RF, very commonly with industrial 13.56 Mhz source. Lower frequencies should to the trick, too, but the big problem is how to make the RF energy go the gas molecules. As mentioned, I haven't thought it out yet, but I did buy an RF amplifier that was originally used to excite the megasonic cleaning bath with frequencies from around 500kHz to about 1Mhz with maximum of about 400W into 50ohms.There are no datasheets or manuals for this unit on the internet and before I pulled it apart, I didn't even know the model number. So much of the things that I say here are just guesses. For example the 50ohm mentioned above is deduced from datasheet of the megasonic transducer that may or may not fit my unit.When buying from the US, it seems that I have a tendency to blow up things by doing the stupidest things ever: plugging 120V device to our 240V. Diligence sometime isn't enough: I searched all over the unit for any indication of voltage switcher, I even opened it to look for it inside, but I couldn't find it. So I told myself that the 240V markings on the back make it OK to try. What we can learn from this try is that old industrial equipment is made to survive even the most stupid users. It blew up two fuses and 1.5KE transient diode, but survived otherwise. Delayed start with relay for the main power DC probably also helped. In the end the voltage switcher was carefully hidden under ultra high quality warning sticker (warning stickers are the highlight of this unit).After fixing the fuses and reverse engineering (looked for pins that go to digital inputs on the control board) the control connector to find the interlock signal (short pin 14 and 15 on DB connector) and applying some 600kHz signal to the input, the thing came to life.It's a bit of a bully, though. It kind of seems like an amplifier, but it isn't. Apparently it uses the input signal to lock a PLL and decide on the power level. And that power level is either quite large or crazy large, because it switches off if you apply less than about 300mVpp to input.I still haven't figured how to couple the output energy to my plasma jar, so any recommendations are welcome. In the mean time.. see some photos.
Cheap source for Hakko FX888(-D) cleaning sponge / rubber? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: microbug
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2014, 01:15:37 pm
content: I somehow managed to destroy the cleaning sponge on my Hakko FX888-D. You can get replacements in a pack of 10 from Aliexpress, but I'd also quite like one of the rubber cleaners. I can't find a source for these other thandancap.co.ukwhich only accepts cheques or bank transfers (neither of which I can use easily - my 'youth' bank account doesn't give me a cheque book and I doubt I would be able to do a bank transfer). Does anyone have a place to get the A1559 sponge and/or B3474 rubber cleaner? I'm happy for it to be from China; I just have to be able to get it in the UK.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2014, 12:36:30 pm
content: Search ebay, found multiple sellers of both..

author: gmit77
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2014, 05:37:08 am
content: hi microbug, we have them both and no minimum quantity required. just check on our webshop.they are very small and light so I guess we can give you fair shipment rate.I have to check when I'll be back in office on Monday and then send you a private message with the indication.FYI you can also get T18 tips one by one.

author: microbug
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2014, 07:24:15 am
content: @neslikkim, maybe there are multiple sellers who sell to Norway, but I couldn't find any who sold the B3474 to the UK. On further checking (searching worldwide items), I found one B3474 seller.@gmit77 thanks, I'll check it out.
HAKKO FR-810 NEW Hot Air Station European Version - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gmit77
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2014, 02:38:01 pm
content: NOTE: This message has been deleted by the forum moderator Simon for being against the forum rules and/or at the discretion of the moderator as being in the best interests of the forum community and the nature of the thread.If you believe this to be in error, please contact the moderator involved.An optional additional explanation is:
Medical cable teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2014, 07:41:02 pm
content: Hi guys,So, I bought a cable for the coaxes inside. I was really shocked at how much attention to detail can one pack into something as simple as a cable. So, I took a few pics and made a little rant:http://www.daqq.eu/?p=1144By the way, how much do you think such a cable would cost brand new? I can't even make a guess!Enjoy!David

author: larry42
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2014, 02:09:10 am
content: That's nothing. Look at a modern medical ultrasound cable harness - 128*AWG40 coax...Sent using Tapatalk

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 30, 2014, 10:21:58 pm
content: For a surgical product I'm working on at the moment, the cable is around £300 for 2 meters - just two core 18AWG and four cores of 26AWG with overall shield and silicone cable suitable for Sterrad and Sterris cleaning methods. I imagine the one you've posted is at least ten times that value.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 31, 2014, 06:34:58 am
content: Lovely gear, I wonder if it was the head unit of a cardiac electro-physiology unit, they typically stick up to 10 probes into peoples hearts to map out the patterns of electrical depolarisation, which some fancy software regenerates into an image for interpretation. You would need lots of channels all isolated.If it was from one they cost multiples of 100s of thousands.

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2014, 11:18:25 am
content: Followup - apparently the cable is for an MRI machine and is non magnetical as well. I'd REALLY love to know the original price
Wire tinning tool [Anti-Wick/Anti-Wicking Tweezers] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MasterBlaster
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 02:03:05 pm
content: I need to do a lot of wire tinning and am trying to find a tool I used way back. Basically it's a pair of tweezers that clamps at the base of the insulation and cups around it for added protection. Can anyone help?It's called "a heatsink" in this video:Surely they have a better name?EDIT:Nevermind, someone mentioned them in the Youtube comments. They are "Anti-Wicking Tweezers"

author: Fsck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 02:27:20 pm
content: why not use a solder pot?

author: MasterBlaster
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 02:54:16 pm
content: Quote from: Fsck on September 24, 2014, 02:27:20 pmWould they be handy for dipping too? Looks like they are $20-$30 a piece though... ugh...

author: Fsck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 03:06:57 pm
content: for tinning ridiculous amounts of wiring, I don't think there is a faster method.just drop a bar of solder in, melt it and dip away.

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2014, 07:20:58 am
content: So much thermal capacity in the solder pot that it does it quickly without melting the insulation.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2014, 07:44:06 am
content: you need a flux pot also to dip it in the flux first then in the solderpot

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2014, 08:06:51 am
content: Those Hakko soldering pot clones are under $20 never used one though.I also wonder if you had a couple of metal plates and a press drill you could make an "all sizes" heatsink or even one that can hold many wires at once.
Low power high brightness LEDs - where from? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2014, 10:33:24 pm
content: Sometime ago I bought a bunch of LEDs on ebay. Some of them achieve ridiculously high brightness at only 0.5mA. Others require a good 10mA or more to match them. For a battery operated device (say a bedside lamp) obviously the 0.5mA would be ideal.Would anyone know where I can source those ultra bright, ultra low power LEDs? (other than random ones from ebay)

author: Zepnat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2014, 11:19:49 pm
content: Here's my suggestion, actually produces visible light in a completely dark room at less than 1uA.At the other extreme, reflowed onto a copper PCB and run at 5 amps produces a stupid amount of light.Best tint ever in my opinion, slightly warm pinkish neutral white. I bought 10.http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10003889/1588300-cree-xm-l2-t6-4d-1200lm-4300-4500k-led-emitter

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 29, 2014, 03:56:41 am
content: It sounds like you're interested in light output for power in... or lumens per watt. You won't find much better than Samsung 561B's or other equivalent 5630 size LED's like the Seoul STC or ST9 (I forget exactly).Saying "it was really bright at only 0.5ma" would likely have more to do with viewing angle than anything. There isn't much magic in white LED's.. and generally the stuff you see in 5mm (especially on eBay) is total shit and should be avoided. Stick with Samsung/Seoul/Cree/Nichia/Philips and the other brand names, especially if you're looking for efficiency.

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2014, 10:36:46 am
content: I was hoping to be able to identify the manufacturer of these "special" LEDs so I can buy them outside of ebay.From what I can see they are 5mm, red, green, yellow/orange, blue, diffuse, and at 0.5mA produce as much light, if not more, than the "normal" 5mm LEDs which typoically are driven by 10mA- 20mA.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2014, 10:53:35 am
content: Look for "low current LEDs"
"Dimmable" LED downlights? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Things
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 08:30:23 am
content: So I've bought a couple of Philips MasterLED downlights to use in a project - problem is I need to be able to dim them from a microcontroller.Presumably they're designed to handle 50Hz TRIAC phase chopping, but does anyone know if they can just handle plain ol PWM? More specifically, the 2 closest frequencies I can get to 50Hz are ~30Hz and ~122Hz, and I'm not sure whether they'll handle this? They can handle DC input as well, so I'd imagine that most DC based dimmers would just use standard PWM, but I'm not sure about frequency.Anyone tried it perhaps?

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 08:35:15 am
content: Don't know if this will help...http://www.lighting.philips.co.nz/pwc_li/main/shared/assets/downloads/Dimming_MASTER_LEDlamps_MV.pdf

author: Things
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 08:48:57 am
content: Almost exactly what I was after .. except I should have mentioned I'm using the 12V versions

author: bookaboo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 09:12:57 am
content: Many of the DC downlighters are just direct connections to the LED itself, so if you knew it's properties you could make an adjustable constant current driver. However it may be a lot easier to just buy a suitable 0-10V driver.

author: Things
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 09:17:02 am
content: The Master LED's do have their own internal drivers, I do know that much.Just reading the "datasheet" for them, they don't explicitly state they run on 12VDC, just they're compatible with most normal downlight transformers ..However, my guess is the AC is just instantly rectified once it's inside the unit, which in the case of 50Hz, would give 100Hz. I'd also suspect they don't make different versions for AU and the US, so assuming they can handle 60Hz as well, that'd be 120Hz.So, I suspect if I PWM them at 122Hz, I should be safe ... maybe

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2014, 07:19:40 am
content: How many watts? I may have internal pics for you.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2014, 07:42:36 am
content: Tear one of them apart and analyze and draw up the inner circuit, then ask advice.You can speculate for months but knowing whats inside makes it a lot easier than experimenting on a black box and not knowing the long time side effects.

author: bookaboo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2014, 08:43:41 am
content: The input of the driver is a completely different function to the output, it could be a linear (unlikely) buck or buck boost converter depending of Vf and arrangement of the LEDs, it could also already be utilising it's own PWM (usually via an EN pin on the main IC) or could be configured in a smoother constant current mode depending on the driver IC. I don't know if PWM on the input will work, much better to pull one apart and see if you can interface to it.
Which GTX 970 card to buy? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2014, 05:15:54 am
content: I recently upgraded my monitor to 4K and now I'm looking for a GPU to replace my aging 560 Ti. I decided on the 970 since the 980 only performs 10-20% better but costs almost double.* Use cases are a lot of desktop work at 4K, some gaming at 1080p 120Hz, and maybe a few CUDA/GPGPU apps. The last part is what I think might be most stressful on the card since it could be running more or less full load for hours or days. Little or no overclocking.* How helpful are more phases as far as long term reliability go? What about digital vs. analog VRM controllers? I plan to keep using it in my main machine for a few years just like the 560 Ti before it, plus I reuse old cards in older machines. In other words, I hold onto GPUs (and computer hardware in general) until they can no longer serve a useful purpose.* Are the multi fan coolers really that much better than the reference design style coolers? I do know that the multi fan designs generally put a lot of heat into the case, but the machine I'm putting it in has excellent ventilation.* I would prefer a card with physical dimensions no bigger than about 10" x 5". More than that and I might have to relocate some other parts in order for it to fit.

author: olewales
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2014, 07:11:19 am
content: I haven't tried any recent card with reference cooling (I guess they must have improved it over the years) but I have always had an excellent experience with ASUS GPU's, especially with their "DirectCU" cooling. Their GTX970 card also seems to get good reviews.http://www.asus.com/us/Graphics_Cards/STRIXGTX970DC2OC4GD5/overview/Dimensions are a bit bigger than your specified maximum though.
Miniature battery protector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2014, 03:12:53 pm
content: I have a portable device which draws 2A at 12V and is powered by two 12V Li-Ion batteries (so it draws 2A from each battery).The batteries are made for hobbyists and are used in model boats, planes etc. They have no on-board protection.As (small) size and compactness is of great importance, I place the two batteries together in an enclosure and provide DC sockets on the front panel to allow connectivity.I have made a small-ish circuit to protect the (expensive) batteries. It has a relay which cuts off supply at 2.5A and it also monitors the voltage and, again, cuts off supply at some low voltage (eg 10V or 10.5V). I have to add here, that such devices are not used by hobbyists because the supply must never be switched off while powering a model craft.My own circuits work well, but are rather large as I cannot use SMDs yet. Each battery protection board which I have made measures 75mm x 50mm x 25mm (height).For the larger battery packs this board doers not present a big problem, but for smaller battery packs it is too large. I have noticed there are "battery protectors" out there (eg ebay) which have under voltage and over current protection (at various arbitrary ranges) but am not sure this is exactly what I want.Do you happen to know of a ready-made, miniature design that will do what I need?

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2014, 06:46:44 am
content: Something like these? but not exactly mini...http://stores.ebay.com/coldtears-electronics-store/Lithium-batteries-products-/_i.html?_fsub=3830144016

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2014, 10:40:13 am
content: Thanks for the suggestion.
Any Info on an Old Glogeo/Samsung GPS Receiver? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2014, 07:10:18 pm
content: I couldn't resist. I bought an old GPS receiver board that does both Glonass and GPS. A session with Google and the Wayback Machine told me that it was manufactured around 2001 by a Korean company named Glogeo although the receiver itself is labelled Samsung. The Glogeo web site had both the manual and software, but unfortunately, both were zipped and it looks like the Wayback Machine didn't store zip files at that time. The attached crappy picture shows what the unit looked like - mine is just the board, not the case.So, does anyone happen to have a copy of either the manual or software for the Glogeo/Samsung Argo-16 Glonass/GPS receiver?Thanks,Ed
JBC CD-1BD soldering station - Recommended vendor in US? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: motocoder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 08, 2014, 10:15:43 am
content: I've decided I want to upgrade my almost 30 year old Hakko soldering iron. I'm wanting to purchase a JBC CD-1BD, but am not sure where to purchase that. Does anyone have a recommendation for a vendor in the United States?

author: kg4arn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 08, 2014, 10:58:22 am
content: Got mine here:http://www.janelonline.com/

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2014, 04:29:49 pm
content: Quote from: kg4arn on August 08, 2014, 10:58:22 am+1

author: motocoder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 08, 2014, 07:06:07 pm
content: Thanks, all. I haven't ordered from Janel before, but I will give them a try.

author: CaptPat
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 08, 2014, 11:19:26 pm
content: Quote from: kg4arn on August 08, 2014, 10:58:22 am+1

author: motocoder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 04:20:46 pm
content: So far not that impressed with Janel Online. I placed the order back on Sept-5, and at the time it showed they had 8 irons in stock. Still no shipment confirmation from them...

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 08:08:41 pm
content: Quote from: motocoder on September 10, 2014, 04:20:46 pmHave you tried giving them a call to see what's going on (1-800-782-4487)?

author: motocoder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 08:22:53 pm
content: Yep, said it would ship today.

author: motocoder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 11, 2014, 01:51:02 am
content: Looks like it shipped out at the end of the day today.

author: grenert
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2014, 03:20:04 pm
content: FWIW, Howard Electronics also carries this station:http://www.howardelectronics.com/jbc/CD-1BD.htmlI haven't bought a JBC from there, but I had a good experience buying a heat gun from them.

author: motocoder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 13, 2014, 07:27:40 pm
content: Quote from: grenert on September 13, 2014, 03:20:04 pmThanks. Janel seems to have shipped it, and it should be here Wednesday. Never thought I'd be excited about a soldering iron, but I am

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2014, 06:09:58 am
content: Soldering system.

author: motocoder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 16, 2014, 06:13:52 am
content: Quote from: nukie on September 16, 2014, 06:09:58 amRight!
High speed pyroelectricity sensor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Tost
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2014, 10:27:52 am
content: Hi,I’m looking for a sensor that is capable to measures contactless very short temperature pluses. There are some papers out that talking about commercial pyroelectric thin film sensors for measuring laser pulses, but I can’t find any commercial source. Does anyone have an idea where to get such sensors? The time constant must be below 100 µs, better 10 µs.Thx!

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2014, 11:47:38 am
content: Hamamatsu make a lot of exotic & oddball optical sensors - may be worth a look there

author: Tost
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2014, 05:07:35 pm
content: Thx Mike,Hamamatsu has really tons of different fancy ir sensors. It seems that photoconductive (never herd before of them) PbSe-Sensors are much better for fast operation at 4 um wavelength. They went down below 10 us rise time, piezoelectric sensors aren’t faster than 10 ms. But they aren’t super cheap…
They call it "Internet Advisor" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: brabus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2014, 07:23:47 pm
content: Hello guys,Has anyone of you ever seen something like this?http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Internet-Advisor-Model-J2301A-with-ETH-Int-J2309A-/221024137528?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337610b1381) What the heck is that?2) I want to see what's inside... TAKE IT APART, DAVE!

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2014, 08:04:58 pm
content: Google not working?It's a protocol analyzer, and an old one at that.

author: rolycat
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2014, 08:10:03 pm
content: It's a Windows 95 portable PC with some additional hardware and interfaces configured for use as a protocol analyzer. There's another (cheaper) one for salehere.The base model seems to have RS232/V.24 , RS449 and V.35 interfaces built in, while the version you linked to also has an Ethernet/Token Ring module.It's all pretty ancient, and I doubt if there's a lot of interesting electronics in there since it's mostly a PC.

author: 1xrtt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2014, 02:28:55 am
content: I used to work with one of these, around 95/96. Top of the line at that time, it came with the regular set of decoders for troubleshoot mainframe communication protocols (BSC-3, SDLC, X25) but ir also could decode Frame Relay and this new TCP/IP thing!The decoder for LAN protocols was very crude. Any version of Wireshark does a much better job, so I would consider it only for the history value.As rolycat pointed out, it's mostly a PC with additional specialized hardware for interfaces, so I agree that a tear down would not reveal much. The only interesting thing (for the really bad design) is the mouse.Yes, there is a mouse on that equipment, look close at the pictures, see if you can find it!

author: sunnyhighway
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2014, 06:32:32 pm
content: Quote from: 1xrtt on September 07, 2014, 02:28:55 amHad to look twice but I found it.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2014, 04:11:45 am
content: Quote from: sunnyhighway on September 10, 2014, 06:32:32 pmDoes it pop out from under the floppy? Is there a giant ball under the case and you roll the whole PC around like a giant mouse? I give up.

author: motocoder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 11, 2014, 05:36:29 am
content: EBay is simply awash in these things. It is so bad some of my Saved Searches there are set to exclude any items matching "advisor".

author: rolycat
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2014, 10:40:20 am
content: Quote from: Alex Eisenhut on September 11, 2014, 04:11:45 amNo need to give up - you were right with the first guess:

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 02:39:59 am
content: This mouse looks exactly like the HP Omnibook 600's mouse. I wonder who copied whom.
soldering station advice (UK)  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lucretius
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 07, 2014, 05:32:24 pm
content: HiMy needs are not very advanced but i would still like a decentish station. I have a budget of around £60these are some that ive looked at.http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/588666/TOOLCRAFT-ST50-A-Analogue-Soldering-Station-230-Vac-50W-150-450-C?ref=listTOOLCRAFT ST50-Ahttp://uk.farnell.com/tenma/at60d-eu/soldering-station-60w-220v-eu/dp/2075392TENMA - AT60D-EUhttp://www.amazon.co.uk/60W-PROTECTION-SOLDERING-IRON-STATION/dp/B004X25LW8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410093231&sr=8-1&keywords=soldering+stationunbranded/maplinhttp://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/7998939/RS AT60DThanks for your help

author: jc101
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2014, 07:48:25 pm
content: Rapid electronics have analogue and digital within your price range, worth a browse.http://www.rapidonline.com

author: janekm
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 07, 2014, 08:02:48 pm
content: Generally speaking I've had good experiences with Atten soldering tools. As far as I can tell the Tenma range is re-branded Atten (soldering) tools so should be ok too.Keep in mind they're intended for fairly fine electronics work, not plumbing, and the included tip will reflect that, but replacement tips of various shapes are very widely available for that style of iron.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2014, 08:00:56 am
content: Quote from: lucretius on September 07, 2014, 05:32:24 pmnoit uses non standard 'thermocouple in series with heater' iron pencil (same as solder peak)+ afair this is an ancient design based on LM385they break a lot, there is a ton of broken ones surfacing after being "recycled" by Conrad RMA center. Recycling means being sold as scrap, travelling east from germany, and finally being sold on the second hand market.you really want digital one with display and a knob
Circuit protection - fuse, thermal fuse, diode, MOSFET, Transistors, what? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2014, 12:36:20 pm
content: I have two Li-Ion batteries or a PSU supplying power to a portable device. As I explained in a previous post I have built a small circuit, with a relay, to disconnect if the current exceeds 2.5A and if the voltage drops below 10.5V (so as to protect the batteries). But this circuit is quite large (through hole components) and would like something smaller so as to fit inside smaller battery packs without adding too much size. Maybe also polarity protection as a bonus.The suggestions were:1) use one of those Lithium-Ion battery protectors, as they are tiny. The cons are (a) they require to be placed on the battery and monitor each cell. (b) the amps are typically fixed (c) the undervoltage detection is fixed and way lower than I want. (d) I cannot apply this circuit to a normal PSU (admittedly the PSU only needs the over current protection)2) use my own circuit : great, but it is too bulky due to the onboard relay and the other through hole components3) use a combination of other components such as:thermal circuit breaker:http://uk.farnell.com/eta/106-p30-3a/circuit-breaker-3a/dp/143827MOSFETs instead of relay - there will be an inevitable voltage drop, and it does matter for batteries, 400mV at 2.5A, maybe if I place two FETs in parallel, but then we are not far off the relay size and there may be heat to deal with as well.Transistors instead of MOSFETs - requires two transistors (space) and even larger voltage drop and heat - but we get the bonus of polarity protection.Other components, like thyristors or whatever...Any suggestions?

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2014, 05:01:15 pm
content: If you are looking to sell this the battery pack would have to be approved. Using a recognised device would make the approval a lot simpler. I don't know what chips you have been looking at, but I have seen battery protection circuit chips that are programmable with a couple of resistors for both current and voltage.
(cheap chinese) plastic that feels like silk? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TriodeTiger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2014, 06:52:05 am
content: Call me weirdI splurged on a handheld IR thermometer the one in my DMM was bulky, so I bought this:http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Non-Contact-IR-Infrared-Digital-Temperature-Gun-Thermometer-Laser-Point-DT8380-/191029408491?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2c7a3d72ebI'm sure this one in particular a lot of people have on hand so maybe you know what I mean, and it's just as accurate as my DMM one - including some very positive features (turning the laser off if desired!)One thing I noticed: It feels like silk or satin, there isfarless friction than the plastic label or glass, other plastics or steel. It feels very dense and light - could it be ceramic? Just a very hard plastic? It feels almost like it is covered in talc - I wish my mouse were made of this!

author: hlokk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2014, 07:16:01 am
content: Pretty sure it'll be that "soft touch" coating that some manufacturers have been using lately. Feels a bit like a smooth rubber but if you try to dig your fingernail in it feels pretty much as hard as plastic. My Logitech MX5500 combo has it on the palmrest and non-thumb side of the mouse. It can wear off though, and my home keyboard palm rest has gone all tackyI'm not sure of the technical name for it or what it is made from, but I'm going to guess some sort of polyurethane? I originally thought it was a surface treatment (i.e. modified the surface, not adding to it) but after a few years it seems quite clear its an additional layer of a different type of material.Could be different though as the ones I have with the coating are grippier not slipperier? (although newness can affect it). Theres probably different tackiness formulations of it though. (Some phones also have it as the backing, I think the Motorola V3G (the fatter 3G one whatever it was called) had it).Edit: This kinda stuff maybe?http://www.bayercoatings.de/BMS/DB-RSC/BMS_RSC_CAS.nsf/id/COEN_1A5Softfeel(Although, I double a Chinese IR device uses genuine Bayer chemicals)

author: mzzj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2014, 01:34:51 pm
content: I hate it because more often than not it will turn to sticky goo atfer some time and exposure to variety of chemicals and oils :grr

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2014, 01:53:19 pm
content: Quote from: mzzj on September 18, 2014, 01:34:51 pmThat stuff usually looks and feels a lot less nice after just a few weeks, long before it goes gooey.
Recomend me a Function Generator for Project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: The1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2014, 11:45:32 am
content: Im currently using 2x HP 3310A Function Generators for my project bench. Looking for something all in one and a bit newer, Im not up with what else is around these days so i will pose the the question here.I did a search but didn't seem to find much, this is what i use them for most or new features that would be nice.Budget would be under $300Dual OuputsSine Wave and Square Wave output0hz - 20khz Range12volt ppability to auto sweep 0 - 20khz?

author: Prime73
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2014, 11:58:37 am
content: Would Atten ATF20B work?http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ATTEN-ATF20B-DDS-FUNCTION-WAVEFORM-GENERATOR-20MHZ-100MSa-s-1-year-warranty-/290879327522?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b9c24d22&_uhb=1

author: The1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2014, 12:17:23 pm
content: thanks, looks to fit the bill, also doesn't have to be new, i am fine with used as it could give better quality and specs.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2014, 10:03:46 pm
content: Quote from: The1 on September 06, 2014, 11:45:32 amDo you have a DSO or a CRO?Are you aware some DSO's can transfer a captured waveform to an AWG to duplicate and reproduce it.Might that affect you choice?The Siglent SDG1000 series are recognized as a good unit. Search the forum for more info.Models range from 5 MHz to 50 MHz and the 5 & 10 MHz are around that you want to spend.

author: The1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2014, 10:51:26 pm
content: thanks, i only have a Rigol 1052E, ill check the SDG1000's

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2014, 11:43:12 pm
content: The SDG1000 series is a nice generator but it doesn't output 12Vpp on both outputs.