hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
SOJ to SOP adapter board? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Rat_Patrol
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 01:53:47 am
content: A component I use with a SOP28 footprint is going obsolete, and what should work as a replacement is on a SOJ28 footprint. The pinouts are the same, but the SOJ just won't touch the pads on the current SOP board.So I'd like to try out these chips before I commit to changing the board, but I'm having trouble finding little PCB or even socket adapters that would work for this combo. I'll whip up some little PCBs and have JLC make them if I have to, but before I spend $65 having that done, I have to imagine these exist somewhere for cheap?Any sources?

author: BreakingOhmsLaw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 11:38:26 am
content: Just fold out the J-leads from under the SOJ package with some tweezers and solder them on the SOP footprint?

author: donlisms
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2024, 05:18:31 pm
content: Little pieces of wire?

author: abeyer
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2024, 06:40:07 pm
content: Perhaps this?https://www.peconnectors.com/sockets-surface-mount/hws7261/

author: Rat_Patrol
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2024, 11:59:17 pm
content: Quote from: abeyer on April 09, 2024, 06:40:07 pmI couldn't find a TDS, but it looks like it uses the same SOJ footprint?

author: Rat_Patrol
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2024, 12:02:49 am
content: Quote from: BreakingOhmsLaw on April 06, 2024, 11:38:26 amI'll give this a try, should probably work. Thanks for the idea!
Solartron 7050 Multimeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Tenderfoot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2024, 10:45:44 pm
content: Hi folks.I'm trying to calibrate this meter, which is working but not accurate.However I'm confused by the first step (of many). If I'm understanding the manual it tells me to take a voltage reading with a 1k resister in series with a voltmeter, this makes no sense to me. Does it mean to put the resistor in parallel with the meter maybe? I'll attach a couple of screenshots. Many thanks for any ideas.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2024, 05:37:09 am
content: The adjustment steps should be there for the offset and than the bias current at the input.The 1 K resistor may be useful to avoid capacitive loading to the amplifiers output. So the capacitor should be an the amplifier side. Than the 1 K make absolutely sense.The 2nd step (RV4) is for the input current - not sure why they use such a small resistor ( 27 K) and not more.

author: Tenderfoot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2024, 03:10:45 pm
content: Thanks for your help. To be honest, what RV4 does is above my pay grade. Not that I need to know to adjust it.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2024, 03:50:26 pm
content: RV3 is to trim the amplifier offset. RV4 is there to trim the LM310 input current compensation. RV4 adjusts a small voltage, slightly more positive than the output / input of the LM310 and the 22 M resistor than provides a few nA of current to compensate the input current.Depending on how good the 2nd meter is that one has for the adjustment, one may want to use more than 27 K for the RV4 adjustment. I see no problem using something like 1 M and this way getting more gain for the trim step (e.g. trim to +-200 µV instead of +-20 µV and still get a more accurat compensation).

author: Tenderfoot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2024, 04:15:26 pm
content: Thank you for that clear explanation, I will try your 1M suggestion later tonight.
Solartron 7075 DVM, better late than never Technical+Service+User Manuals - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2024, 03:53:16 pm
content: The Solartron 7075 DVM manuals online have schematics that are almost, but not quite, illegible.Finally, years after I needed it, found a 7075 manual, so I've scanned it and put it online. Better late than never. These schematics are legible; the remaining gaps are in the printed originalBAMA:http://bama.edebris.com/download/solartron/7075/750_Technical_Manual.pdf(15MB)http://bama.edebris.com/download/solartron/7075/750_Technical_Manual.djvu(6MB)At aquick glancethe djvu file is equivalent, but I haven't looked at each page.xDevs:https://xdevs.com/docs/Solartron/7075/solartron_7075_DVM_dataSystems_userServiceCalibration_1980.pdf(15MB)Have fun.
Solartron 7075 repair - help needed finding replacement JFET - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: TmaxElectronics
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2023, 07:34:44 pm
content: I just bought some old solartron 7075 7,5 Digit multimeters and am having some trouble repairing one of them.I traced the error into the JFET input amplifier and it seems that TR408 is dead. At least one of the JFETs in it has some leakage from gate to drain/source when applying a negative Voltage to it.The Part number according to the BOM in the service manual is NDF9410 or WD401 (the one I unsoldered is labeled WD401). For one of those I have at least managed to find a datasheet but the other one didn't even give me that much luck.Now of course I have the Problem of not being able to find a replacement for it.Has anybody got an idea how I could get a replacement part for it? (Even if it is just a compatible one and not with the same Part number). Linear circuits (especiall JFETs) are just beyond my capabilities. At least at the moment

author: kripton2035
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2023, 07:44:04 pm
content: at least some sort of datasheet...closest replacement part seems to be 2N5561 (if available ?)http://www.elektronikjk.com/elementy_czynne/technologie-tranzystory/Tranzystory_N-Channel_Monolithic_Dual_JFET_proces_94.pdf

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2023, 08:09:40 pm
content: I have some 7075 boards ripped out of a broken 7075. They might have the transistor and it might be working. Or not, of course.If you tell me which board it is on, I'll have a look.I suggest you check whether the same type of transistor was used elsewhere, just in case

author: py-bb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2023, 08:14:25 pm
content: I'm very sorry to knowingly "derail" your thread OP but I like Solartron gear, I have a AS1411.2 and the smaller 30V @ 1A supply, I'd very much like a manual or service manual if anyone has one.One of mine has a CI light that flickers when CV is on sometimes (I think the relay removes the output capacitor from the circuit -very nifty)Sorry again but yeah anyone have a manual!?

author: TmaxElectronics
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2023, 08:26:08 pm
content: QuoteIt is on board 5. Thats the bottom one of the Analog boards in the middle of the instrumentAccording to the BOM it is used as: TR403, TR408 amd TR409EDIT: Oh and its in a TO71 6 pin metal can. Maybe that makes finding it easier

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2023, 09:11:19 pm
content: Like this...Looks like I already raided it for the precision resistors.I also have the board above it (with the rectangular hole), the front panel switch board, and the PSU board.

author: TmaxElectronics
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2023, 09:45:12 pm
content: Oh yeah that one is it. Looks like the Fets are still in place too

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2023, 11:17:39 pm
content: PM containing several options sent.
solartron 7075 volts ohm meter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2024, 08:59:04 pm
content: I have this meter,it came with an intermitent display,i think ive cured that but,it wont measure on any range also on the self test all i can get it to do is light all display segments and the markers for volts ohms etc,any idea where to start?,heres a link to its service manual,cant post here as its too big:https://elektrotanya.com/solartron_schlumberger_7075_sm.pdf/download.html

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2024, 09:18:55 pm
content: i would say start at the page 231 psu section check all voltages and ac ripple in the dc, you have tons of voltages in this metercareful for the 160vdcyou have 2 power section and one of them is floating as the warning text does announce

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2024, 09:23:11 pm
content: Quote from: p.larner on January 14, 2024, 08:59:04 pmSame answers as before in your other threads...1) reseat all of the ribbon cable connectors2) check voltage and ripple of each power line

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2024, 10:31:14 pm
content: all power rails are spot on and in spec with no real ripple,i changed 1 cap+ the mains input filter,that seemed to cure the intermittent display but its like no probes are connected,as if its front end is dead!.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2024, 11:06:49 pm
content: Quote from: p.larner on January 14, 2024, 10:31:14 pmIn that case you are goiong to have to understand how the circuit is supposed to work, and find out which bits are and aren't working.Check the local/remote switch, and that there's nothing plugged in to the rear panel 50-way connector. Then start tracing voltages.

author: wn1fju
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2024, 11:12:35 pm
content: There are a few YouTube repair videos on the Solartron 7075 that may give you some ideas. One particular video shows a thermal camera identifying an overheated RAM chip which was ultimately what was wrong with the unit. So in addition to reseating connectors and socketed ICs, you might want to feel around for a hot IC in case you get lucky.

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2024, 08:01:24 pm
content: i cant find the vid,have you a link?,cheers.

author: factory
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2024, 08:06:50 pm
content: No can't find anything either....

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2024, 07:58:46 pm
content: i watched the vids on the trashed one not much good as he doesent fix it in the end!.
Solar/UPS Clicking sound  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Zozew
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 05, 2022, 06:41:11 am
content: Hello there!I've got this CHAFON (many brands) solar ups that I need to work for an off grid project.Its a 288wh ups/powerbank with PV and mains input for charging. It has a pure sine wave 220v/500w, 12/60w and 5v/10w outputs.Its a chinesium 😊 device that worked great for a while, but it has started to behave very strangely.Right now when turning on the inverter, the control board a egs002 board starts blinking 1/2s on then 3s off and I hear an auditable but faint click from the area around a CBB22 630v225J capacitor when the board turns off, the 220v output turns on for the time the led is on, then 220v turns off. (I check 100 times, the clicking is not from the relays)Have a look at the videohttps://youtube.com/shorts/M6lVtP8ENuE?feature=shareAfter an arbitrary amount of time from 30s to 10min the control board turns on fully and stays on with a stable output of 220v.Have a look at the videohttps://youtu.be/T9JgvMQYuPkBut, If I draw more than 10w or so it turns of and restarts.So.. I checked all the capacitors (off board) and found two yellow 0.22uf X2 capacitors totally open and the CBB22 above a bit below its rated capacity. 1.6uf from its 2.2uf ratingEverything else seems to be within spec.So what I did is ordered some new X2 caps and temporarily replaced them with some 0.1uf X2 caps I had in an old PSU. The old CB22 I left as well for now.But same things happensAny advice greatly appreciatedZAnd yes I know the on button has its button reversed 😁
Solder mask peeling - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Njackste
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2021, 02:50:47 am
content: I bought a stacker arcade machine led PCB 2nd hand but some of the solder mask is peeling how can I fix this.I dont have specialised equipment I just have a soldering iron and some tools.I have never replaced solder mask before and I don't know how to do it.If I use an mg chemicals conformal coating pen will that work to insulate the PCB and to prevent shorts with the other side of the board.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2021, 03:16:39 am
content: Why do you need to replace it? It is really only necessary during automated soldering.Given that it is peeling, I assume it is the type of the process that tins the traces first, so there should not be exposed copper that may corrode.

author: Njackste
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2021, 03:20:45 am
content: There is exposed copper on the board it's not on traces its on through holeDo I need to replace it.Will it cause shorts if I dont

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2021, 03:22:53 am
content: Missing solder mask will not cause shorts unless something else touches the board. But that would be a bad design no matter what.

author: Njackste
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2021, 03:23:35 am
content: Thanks

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2021, 02:36:42 pm
content: I know I’ve seen solder mask pens in a catalog, I forget who makes it. But as others have said, it’s usually no problem. What I like to do, if there’s exposed copper, is to tin it with solder so the copper won’t oxidize. But this is not in any way a requirement.
Soldering a DIY 3.5mm audio connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: smk279
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2023, 08:38:46 pm
content: The metal surface is very shiny and solder just rolls off

author: DimitriP
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2023, 08:42:44 pm
content: Use a fine file to scratch it and also use some flux.Usually just filing does the trick

author: Greybeard
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2023, 05:17:59 pm
content: Did you use leaded or unleaded solder?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2023, 03:37:07 pm
content: Quote from: Greybeard on November 30, 2023, 05:17:59 pmNot that this makes any significant difference...

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2023, 03:38:32 pm
content: Quote from: smk279 on November 29, 2023, 08:38:46 pmThere are endless variations of 3.5mm connectors. Please indicate exactly what you are trying to solder. (Provide exact model number, or a link to the product page, etc.)

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2023, 08:14:46 pm
content: Probably chrome plated. Only way around is to file as DimitriP suggests. Nickel plated and steel should solder easily.

author: Greybeard
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 09:33:48 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on December 01, 2023, 03:37:07 pmLeaded solder is more tolerant to difficult surfaces.Generally soldering with unleaded solder needs higher temperatures and more skilled user.I think those are enough differences worth to mention.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 09:49:20 pm
content: Quote from: Greybeard on December 04, 2023, 09:33:48 pmI think everyone agrees that leaded solder is objectively superior. But I think the difference is far, far smaller than people claim it to be. But above all, no matter what the core problem is (be it a difficult surface, or insufficient heat, or whatever), the fix for each problem is the same whether it’s leaded or lead-free solder: prepare the surface better, or use a better flux, or add more heat (depending on the problem).Having literally taught groups of beginning solderers, I honestly just can’t agree that lead-free requires significantly more skill than leaded. The skills needed to be a good solderer with leaded solder are the same skills needed to be a good solderer with lead-free solder: understanding heat, timing, and observation of the workpiece.

author: CharlotteSwiss
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2023, 02:06:02 am
content: Quote from: smk279 on November 29, 2023, 08:38:46 pmWhen tinning on these very 'slippery' surfaces, I usually work the surface with a small router on my Dremel, making interleaved grooves. I then clean well with ispopropyl alcohol and solder
Soldering lamp stopped working - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: martfoxy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2021, 10:38:40 am
content: My soldering lamp went off yesterday. I checked the fuse and some of the components on the pcb but seem ok. Checked the LEDs and one is shorted and another is open. Does anyone know what type of LEDs I should replace them with?Thanks

author: martfoxy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2021, 10:39:59 am
content: Also a photo of pcb attached.

author: tunk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2021, 11:55:06 am
content: Looks like fairly standard 3 or 5mm LEDs (maybe low profile).Or to see if it works, replace the dead LEDs with 150 ohm resistors.

author: martfoxy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2021, 01:34:07 pm
content: Thanks that got it working with 150 Ohm resistors. Will order some suitable LEDs.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2021, 02:01:53 pm
content: Quote from: tunk on April 10, 2021, 11:55:06 amThose are neither.They’re what the Chinese vendors (the only place I’ve ever seen them) call “straw hat” LEDs, specifically the 4.8mm/5mm variant with the “small core” or “small cup”. (You can also get “large core” ones with a much larger phosphor center.) They have a much wider beam angle than regular 5mm LEDs. They’re also a fair bit shorter.

author: martfoxy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2021, 10:20:50 am
content: Thanks for the information. I have found some straw hat ones online.
soldering station 8858d+ hot air gun part repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sabi04
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 24, 2022, 06:39:58 am
content: Hi guysDoes anyone have a soldering station sunrun 8858d+ model?I didn't know what it was because the two resistors connected to BAT16 were burnt when I saw a failure related to the hot air fan. Anyone with the same model or something similar can tell me what it is?
Soldering station failed  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: hpibmx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2020, 07:44:49 am
content: Hi,Guys recently my soldering station stopped working altering removing it and plugging it in a deferent station.Any idea how I can check this?I don’t have any other machine to test it, it turns on my station but the temperature won’t rise at all it’s just 000, and when I unplug it my station detect it. But putting back in recognize but no rise in temperature.Appreciate it if you have any ideas about this too.It’s Gordak 952 Soldering Station

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2020, 08:36:10 am
content: Your pictures show an incomplete iron! Maybe if you re-assembled it with a soldering tip installed it might work better.

author: ajp8868
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2020, 10:38:24 am
content: I recently had the same kind of issue, does it physically get hot?

author: goaty
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2020, 10:45:09 am
content: Maby heating element is burned out. Usually it´s two resistors you can measure on the 5-pin (?) connector.One is thermocouple and one is heating element. Heating element is around 10 Ohms or so in that range.

author: hpibmx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2020, 12:20:06 pm
content: Nope unfortunately it’s the same

author: hpibmx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2020, 12:21:10 pm
content: Quote from: goaty on July 30, 2020, 10:45:09 amNope not at all

author: hpibmx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2020, 12:22:26 pm
content: I’ll have to check it by Monday we are having off nowThank you, I’ll check and update you again.

author: goaty
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2020, 01:57:12 pm
content: Maby a look at schematic can help repair ?

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2020, 10:13:46 pm
content: Could be a burned out TRIAC.

author: SpecialK
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2020, 01:10:27 am
content: Did you open the handle and aviation connector and look for breaks? That's what broke on mine. The wires are very thin for 60 watts IMO.

author: goaty
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2020, 07:39:20 am
content: - Check the 26Vac supply is present on CN9- Check if pulses go into Optoisolator Pin 1- Maby Optoisolator bad ?

author: hpibmx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2020, 09:01:37 am
content: Quote from: KL27x on July 30, 2020, 10:13:46 pmI’m gonna check on that

author: hpibmx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2020, 09:02:22 am
content: Quote from: SpecialK on July 31, 2020, 01:10:27 amI haven’t opened it yet, I’m check the circuit in it thanks
Soldering Station KSGER T12 - ERROR, and glowing tip - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: KnoxMystic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 19, 2022, 09:25:01 pm
content: HelloIn handle two wires was too close and one beautiful day they call outNow my station i showing ERROR, and the tip is glowing to red colour.What is going on? What components should I exchange?I measure a thermistor (similar appearance as zener diode) and is broken (no values on multimeter). I want to exanche it but i Dont know what value is it (ohms)Can anybody help me?I hant to repair my soldering station
Soldering station T12-953 fuse blown - how to fix? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: nb
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 23, 2022, 09:25:14 am
content: Hi All,I am a hobbyist using a Quecoo T12-953. It was working well for years, until the fuse (250V 3A) was blown when I was working with an old TV pcb.Perhaps I was not so careful enough. After resoldering a few spots, when the tip touched another spot to resolder, the fuse was blown. All but the fuse insider the soldering station looked okay, so I replaced the fuse, but when I turn the station again, the fuse was blown again. I removed the soldering handle cable from the station and tried again, but again the fuse was instantly blown.What would have gone bad in the soldering station? When I measured the resistance between AC input, no shortage was shown. How could I fix it?Comments will be appreciated very much!

author: nb
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 24, 2022, 06:59:33 am
content: It turned out that two of the rectifier diodes were bad (closed). They were M7 (smd version of 1N4007) but the only parts I had was 1N4004. Their difference is the max reverse voltage (700V vs 280V). Because 280V is still higher than the mains voltage, I thought 1N4004 would also be okay. I replaced the bad M1 diodes with 1N4004, and the soldering station worked well. So, luckily, other parts were not damaged, I guess.Perhaps I should be a bit concerned about using 1N4004? After this weekend I may have to order some M7 or 1N4007...

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2022, 03:10:26 pm
content: Do you realize that 230Vac RMS is a bit over 300V peak?And here in the EU, that is nominal voltage, and mains can be upto almost 250Vrms = 350V peak.And that is without surges, lightning strikes and other nasty business, so indeed putting in diodes for a higher rated voltage is advisable.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 24, 2022, 03:34:37 pm
content: Quote from: Doctorandus_P on July 24, 2022, 03:10:26 pm1n4004 has 400V peak rating and 280V RMS. Still it's uncomfortably close and does not account voltage surges.

author: nb
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 24, 2022, 04:03:12 pm
content: Thanks a lot for your comments, Doctorandus_P and wraper! It was exactly what I needed. As suggested, I will replace them with 1N4007 or M7.By the way, what is a "standard method" to make an appropriate choice of peak rating (eg accounting voltage surge) in such a situation? I'd like to learn more, because my hobbyist knowledge was limited to only comparing mains' 220V RMS and diode's 280V RMS...
Soldering tweezers compatible with Pace MBT250 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: perdrix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2021, 02:21:18 pm
content: I have a Pace TT-65 SensaTemp II ThermoTweez solder/desolder tool, but it's a bit big and clunky.Are there any other tweezers that are compatible with the older Pace soldering stations such as the MBT250 that use a PT100 sensor?ThanksDavid

author: perdrix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2021, 12:26:10 am
content: I was hoping that maybe the MiniTweez MT-100 might be available in Sensatemp - but it looks like only Intelliheat (what's the difference?).

author: w9gb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2021, 07:57:44 pm
content: David,NO.The Tweezers for the Pace SensaTemp system are the TT-65 Tweezers (offered for 20+ years).https://paceworldwide.com/tt-65-thermotweez-thermal-tweezer-sensatempI have a complete Pace Sensatemp system (MBT-250) and major hand pieces,as well as the newer ADS-200 AccuDrive system.Yes, the Pace Intelliheat and AccuDrive are NEWER Technology (introduced 15 years ago) .... supporting cartridge style tip/heater, like major competitors (JBC, Hakka, OKI/Metal). Pace offers smaller tweezers, in line with changing needs for bench tech (SMT, and smaller component sizes), for those newer technologies, not legacy Sensatemp.gb

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2021, 04:03:24 am
content: Old catalog can be found here:http://www.gsaservice.com/PACE_Soldering_Desoldering_Rework_Catalog.pdfNot sure if you have seen Mikes video, but this may be workaround to get a little more use out of them (using PS90 tips). At your own risk, but you can always try diy replating if you mess up.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2021, 04:12:06 am
content: The DTP-80 was also available for the SensaTemp system, for QFP and PLCC packages. And the CT-15, for the Pulse Heat system, is a type of tweezer for some older SMT profiles.
Solomon SL-916D Desoldering Station  Power supply Schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ahaladjian
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 05:59:45 pm
content: Helloi am looking for schematic diagram for Solomon Sl-916D Desoldering station power supply, i searched everywhere and didn't find.is anyone here knows how to get the schematic diagrams?i will appreciate itmany thanks73sAntony5B4ANJ
Solved - I just had my HP Elitedesk 260 G2 "mini" to - NOT TURN ON. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2024, 04:20:08 pm
content: I just had my HP Elitedesk 260 G2 "mini" to - NOT TURN ON.It was exposed to a powerfaiure, and since then it would not turn on.At first i thought it was the PSU , so i discarded the "Old HP PSU" but kept the 3-pin plug.I had a Lenovo 65W with the "Square plug", I cut that plug.And soldered the "Old HP 3-pin plug" to the Lenovo PSU VCC/GND wires, now i added a 390K resistor from Lenovo "VCC" to the HP Plug center "Needle pin"Value deducted from here:However in February 2024 I heard from Phillip who had been doing some experimenting. In May 2024 he followed this up with a more comprehensive list of PSU rating vs resistor values.Power Resistor230W 100k150W 121k120W 182k90W 294k65W 383k45W 500kThe HP still wouldn't power on with the new "Lenovo/HP" PSU.But now i had light in the LAN-Port if i connected a LAN cable too the HP-mini.I left it for a few weeks, and returned to it today.Opened the "box" , and saw a "Bios Clear" button on the Mobo.Pressed that a few times of 10 sec, and after connecting the "Lenovo/HP" PSU the fan began to spin !!!!!! , and the hdd lamp began to blink.Removed power , installed a new Bios CR2032 , assembled the box and powered on again ...IT WAS ALIVE !!!!!!I had to redo the Bios settings (ESC to enter menu) , and now all is good again.Well ... It had crashed my VMware ESXi (6.7) USB boot disk , but now i could build a new ESXi install disk , and install ESXi on a "fresh USB OS disk".The HP Elitedesk 260 G2 "mini" is up and running ESXi again.But rather weird that somehow the bios got corrupted, and that prevented the machine from turning on.Edit:Today when i turned it on - It was beeping 4 times , and the power lamp blinked red.It turned out my 390k resistor was not connected anymore ...In the summerhouse i just have 0603's , and "airwiring" such a beast was not easy.I cut a little piece of PCB , and used that as the 0603 base , now the machine is alive again , wo. any probs./Bingo
Some 34420a short readings - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: martinr33
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2021, 03:18:42 am
content: I warmed up a 34420a nanovolt meter, and ran some stats on some shorts I made.The "copper" short is built wit the Lemo nut connector and CdSn solder.Cheapie #1 and Cheapie #2 are built with Lemo push-pull connectors and regular solder.All three shorts show similar noise levels.The copper pins short averages 2nV. The meter is well over a year out of calibration, but this is still pretty good. Or I have a "lucky" short.The simpler shorts have similar noise levels to the copper short, but show an offset of 22 or 35 nV.I did not control the number of readings, so these sessions ran several hours each in a non-temperature controlled environment. That likely boosted the spread on the copper connector.The main takeaways for me are:The non-copper pin connectors are fine to use in many cases but you must compensate for the offset.The push-pull connectors are convenient, but you still have to wait for the thermals to settle so you don't get shorter cycles. Plus, the connectors likely take a bit longer to stabilize.There might be a small thermal offset at the connection pins in the meter.(the push-pulls are also 1/10 the price of the copper nut connetcors).Cheapie #1 Copper Cheapie #2Average (nV) 35 2.0 22.1SD 2.9 3.7 2.7P-P 22.7 25.7 19.2Min 22 -10.9 11.9Max 44 14.8 31.1Readings 5109 11824 2449
Some caps and resistors came off, can I leave them off? pic inside - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Lisa5
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 25, 2024, 07:57:46 pm
content: I was trying to replace a larger memory size for my ereader by re-balling, and I accidently knocked off the caps / resistors highlighted in red.Do I need to replace these? Or can I ignore?If I have to replace, how can I identify the types and farads etc.

author: Kim Christensen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2024, 11:43:55 pm
content: You need them. If they weren't needed, then the bean counters would have made sure they weren't installed.I take it that you lost them? Then good luck figuring it out without a schematic or reverse engineering.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2024, 11:45:09 am
content: One of those 'capacitors' is an inductor (the rightmost one), definitely needed.As for values, if you don't still have the parts or the manufacturer's schematic, you can't - you might try the datasheet of the Mediatek IC, U18), there might be an application circuit.EDIT: Otherwise, it looks as if you've lost wifi (and GPS?), maybe you can retain some use by side-loading books over USB.

author: Lisa5
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 26, 2024, 12:24:24 pm
content: Quote from: Kim Christensen on May 25, 2024, 11:43:55 pmI understand they have a purpose somewhere, but the question is, is it required to use the device.For example a dead power on/off LED is superficial, and doesnt effect using the actual device for its intended purpose.I have lost the parts unfortunately.Quote from: Gyro on May 26, 2024, 11:45:09 amHello Chris.I wouldnt mind side loading if I cant find inductor.Would the device be safe to power on? I havnt tried just to prevent breaking it.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2024, 12:38:29 pm
content: The other components look to be capacitors (probably decoupling for various pins) and the inductor is probably in the path to one of the RF filters (you would be wise to download the MT6631N datasheet (which, luckily, is available on a web search) and tracing to check that it doesn't go to a supply pin.Once you have checked that, your reballing hasn't caused any shorts, and there is no other damage outside the area of the photo, I can't see that you would cause any further damage by powering it up.P.S. Datasheet link...https://archive.org/download/mediatek_202304/MT6631_External_Data_Sheet_v02a_%2820160421%29.pdfEDIT: If you can do the 'leg work' and identify exactly which pins the missing parts are connected to, it might be possible to make an educated guess about values, or what functionality will be missing (eg. wifi might work on 2GHz but not 5GHz band).
Some help to identify a component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: NickGreece2025
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 12, 2025, 10:42:34 am
content: Hello EEvbloggers!!I would appreciate it if someone could give me a hand identifying a diode. After the power jack (9V), before the fuse for the charging circuit, i have a diode BR 2A2 HK (see attached photo). Any idea which diode is that? Can't find it with these numbers anywhere.Thank you in advance for your comments. Greetings from Greece!

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2025, 10:58:39 am
content: 17V bidirectional TVS diode. The sideways sytlized LF is the Littelfuse logo, and they use BR for 17V. Whether BR refers to bidirectional or unidirectional depends on the series, but since your diode doesn’t have a cathode band printed on it, it must be bidirectional.Perhaps SMBJ series:https://www.littelfuse.com/assetdocs/tvs-diodes-smbj-series-datasheet?assetguid=09a6ae9a-73cb-4ac4-acac-e6dab92ab953Without carefully measured dimensions, it’s impossible to say which series with certainty.

author: NickGreece2025
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 13, 2025, 07:01:11 pm
content: Thank you dear Tooki, you helped me a lotBe well!
Some keys not working on a n145 samsung laptop - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Godzilla
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2021, 11:42:37 am
content: Hello guys, ive an old laptop that has some keyboard problems, basically some keys dont work, so i bought a replacement keyboard and raplaced the old one. Even on the new keyboard some keys dont work but now the broken keys are different from the previous... Ive checked the schematics and the keyboard seems to go straight to a MEC1308-N chip, is it possible that only some output of the chip are broken?
Some one know French please tell me the meanning of "TOS" indicator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: teatime
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2025, 01:01:30 am
content: This is an amplifier made in France about 30 years ago.Brand: M2SModel:AC 8113-800/250ABut I cannot find any information about this model in internet.Temp LED means "OVER TEMP":ALIM LED maybe means" POWER SUPPLY TURN ON"But I don't know the means of "TOS"I hope some one know French please tell me the meanning of "TOS" indicator.Many Thanks!

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2025, 02:16:10 am
content: Does not seem like any of these fit...https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/tos#FrenchBut a search online yieldshttps://www.acronymfinder.com/Taux-d%27Onde-Stationnaire-(French%3a-Standing-Wave-Ratio)-(TOS).htmlwhich might be appropriate.

author: teatime
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2025, 02:38:16 am
content: Thank you.I will keep checking this amplifier.

author: ftg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2025, 07:08:00 am
content: For an RF amplifier an alert about high reflected power would make sense.

author: bitwelder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2025, 07:40:53 am
content: Not sure how much it could help you but it seems that at same address there was a company named "MEGA SUD", which built/sold radio equipment, so you may try to search also with that name.

author: Cyclotron
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 11, 2025, 08:05:13 am
content: A TOS (Transmitter-to-System) standing wave refers to the formation of a standing wave in a transmission line. If too high it can damage the transmitter.

author: timeandfrequency
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2025, 08:47:13 am
content: Hello teatime,'TOS' : translation provided by amyk is correct.The manufacturerno longer existssince 2020.So chances to ask for any documentation is pretty low.AC8113 amplifier seems to be used forEMC testing.Maybe you can contact a few EMC testing labs that own this TE and ask for some documentation ?If successful, it could be interesting to publish it on the forum.

author: teatime
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2025, 03:04:23 am
content: Thank you, after checking the root cause is the power dedect circuit abnormal finally cause the TOS alarm.(It's means the SWR protect)
Somewhat dim Fluke 8840A VFD display up for grabs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lmamakos
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2021, 04:22:55 am
content: I have a Fluke 8840A VFD up for grabs. Mine was getting a little dim, and I replaced it with an LED-based display sourced from eBay with good success. The one I pulled out is OK, if a little dim. Rather than pitch in the trash, I'd rather find it a new home with someone that might have some use for it. Save it from the dump!I originally posted about it in the "Test Equipment" forum, but maybe more appropriate here? See the post over therehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-8840a-vfd-display-(a-little-dim)-looking-for-a-good-home/for photos of the VFD after it got pulled.First come, first served. I'll ship it USPS Priority Mail to you for $10 via PayPal to a destination in the US. Please DM me if you're interested.

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2021, 02:49:39 pm
content: Hi, I'm interested in the display, Thanks
sommerkamp/yaesu ft-707 cw issue. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2023, 01:11:07 am
content: i have this radio,its a rebadged yaesu ft-707,if i select cw wide or narrow on any band the speaker emits a loud (1khz about.) tone,its loud and the vol control wont change its volume,i can still hear stations in the background but the background hiss can be heard and the vol pot will change that,but the 1kc tone is always comming over the speaker no matter where i set the vol,cw does actualy tx ok tho if i monitor on a web sdr,any ideas where to start?,i have the yaesu ft-707 sm,cant find one for the sommerkamp model tho,will post in the radio section too,thanks+73

author: Halcyon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2023, 04:41:00 am
content: Duplicate topic:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/rf-microwave/somerkamp-ft-767dxyaesu-ft-707-cw-mode-issue/
Sonance 12-50 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: MALE20
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2023, 06:54:57 pm
content: I recently purchased Sonance 12-50 with a view of repair and use in a future cinema room project. Item has had water damage in the power section that shorted the circuit. Looks like the previous owner did not bother too much and left the water inside which caused some further damage. I am in the process of removing and documenting everything however I am struggling to identify 3 2512 resistors as they were severely damaged. Can find any circuit or service manual so it is a bit of a challenge. I know that the first symbol was the letter R and the last digit is 0. My guess is that it was a 0hm resistor that was serving as a fuse. Any other ideas are more than welcome. The other damage component that I need to find is a replacement for Mosfet FDP18N50.

author: Kim Christensen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 05:19:19 am
content: Quote from: MALE20 on March 12, 2023, 06:54:57 pmWere those 3 resistors all in parallel? If so, they might be part of the current sense circuit.

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 09:54:52 am
content: Meh... don't think the resistors are zero.If those resistors would have been zero, these would likely not have blown up as a '0' Ohm short doesn't (shouldn't) heat up. And there is a visible clue too:The ending zero on the top and the bottom resistors are slightly more square than the first number on the middle resistor and than the second number on the bottom resistor.Ok, now, what numbers are these....Not 0Likely not 1; 4; 5; 6; 7Maybe 9Probably 2; 3; 8;Possible E12 series resistors with these number:R220; R330; R820Somehow I have a preference for R330... eventually R220, not R820 as it somewhat unusual. Well, I might be completely wrong with this guess.3 times R330 in parallel is close to a tenth of an Ohm. In series it is close to an Ohm.

author: MALE20
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 06:33:39 pm
content: I came to same conclusion it is not going to be 0. As there are other 220 fitted it makes me wonder if that would be 220 as well. But why there would be R in front of them compared to the others. All where 3 in parallel feeding source voltage to FDP18N50 mosfet.

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 07:38:28 pm
content: The R represents the decimal dot. These are 0.22 Ohm or 0.33 Ohm.Those on the board are 22 Ohm (the last digit 0 represents the number of zeros, and zero zeros is no zeros so just 22)

author: Audiorepair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 07:38:59 pm
content: R220 is 0.22 Ohms.https://kiloohm.info/smd4-resistor/R220220 is 22 ohms. (22 with Zero Zeros after it)
Soniq flea market speaker repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: griell
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2024, 11:36:26 pm
content: Gday forum, I've recently found myself with a pair of soniq speakers. They sound great but have this annoying issue where the sound cuts out after 20 minutes (almost exactly). Power remains on for the system (as i can see an led still on when the sound cuts out) and the usb port still has power.What ive already done:tried a different power jack in the houseran the speaker with the back panel off (thought overheating could be the culprit)tried using different devices to play soundtried using the bluetooth function instead of rca connectionchecked the boards for dry joints, blown capsDetails on the speaker:Soniq Flea Market bluetooth bookshelf speakermodel no. fmbtbss2bkthe right unit is a passive speaker with a separate amp + bluetooth + power circuit board, the left unit is just a passive speaker that can be connected to the right speaker with two wires.I primarily use the speaker with an rca to 3.5mm aux splitter but it shows the same symptoms over bluetooth.I'll attach photos of the circuit boards but I'd really appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction for diagnosis. I have some experience with electronic repair but am very new to sound system electronics.

author: griell
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2024, 11:37:22 pm
content: another board, this is what i suspect is the amp circuit

author: griell
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2024, 11:38:01 pm
content: And this is the final board which i assume is responsible for handling controls + bluetooth

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2024, 11:54:25 pm
content: Quotedo they have a sleep timer option?
Soniq U65TX14A-AU No display - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: SaltFpv
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2021, 01:19:44 pm
content: Hi everyone,Just wondering if someone could please help me?I have a Soniq U65TX14A-AU, when I power it on the back light works and the start up sound plays but no image.What happened was after some time when it did work it would get a green image running from top to bottom and I would turn it off and on after 5 min it would be fine.Now it has no display.I opened it up. Checked the 5 and 24v rail on the main board. However I noticed the heat top heat sink was lifted on what I think is the BGA LCD Chip.Would replacing the main board - U65TX14A-AU - Main Board -(ST6369IV-TC1) (222-665006002-30) work?Or should I replace the main board along with theTcon Board -(6870C-0466B) ?Any way I could prove it's that particular component which the heat sink was not secured too? I think it would be the BGA LCD TV chip that the heat sink was lifted. I dont have a reflow station.Any help would be greatly appreciated, I am new here and new to electronics. Only repaired minor boards like PDB,s and Flight controllers. Just don't want to throw out something if it can be fixed.Cheers

author: SaltFpv
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 11, 2021, 12:44:06 pm
content: Thanks for all the support, managed to diagnose the issue and repair the board. Tv is now working after replacing a few components with a heat gun and soldering.
sonos sub help with test points - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Carl E
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2025, 01:21:27 pm
content: hi, I am attempting to repair a sonos sub gen 2 woofer. I have 52 VDC out of the primary supply, but cannot test for low voltages, ie, 3,6, 12 V or whatever is on the low voltage side. As there are no schematics and very limited info on the web Im looking here for help. Ive tested a LM393 for + voltge in and ground and there is none. Ive disconnected the wifi and that does not help. There is no led lit on the power switch. Any help would be appreciated. TIAIve determined that R37 was fried. If anyone has a pic or can provide the value of R37 , it would be great. I saw a video where R37 was replaced with a 1K resistor, but after installing a 1K I got magic smoke. The partially visible value on R37 in the video was 01B before being replaced.. The video was in German so it was impossible to understand what was being said.
SONOS Sub Repair Dead Power Supply Flat Cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jemp
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2024, 08:11:54 pm
content: Hi All,I 've got a defective Sonos Speaker, which Power Supply Was dead, but I did manage to repair. Varistor BlownNow I see that the connector is broken on the flat cable ( FPC ) form the Power Amp to the control board, and therefore I have no sound on the subwooferDoes anybody, know where to buy these cables.. Probably a lookalike cable with FPC Connectors on it 44 pins could be OKSee picturesAny help is welcomeTnxJP