Vantek DPS 3305P 32V/5A/160W Programmable DC Power Supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2011, 12:24:17 pm
content: Picked up one of these power supplies off ebay (eBay auction: #270867656884) for about $190 Aussie Dollars. Has a USB connection for controlling it via a PC.The software is a bit hacky but it seems pretty stable in operation. It's basically just a USB to UART bridge inside so I'm sure you can reverse engineer the serial protocol and write your own software. You can feed the software a csv file with voltage and current parameters in respect to time and have it automatically make changes (in a set number of loops too). It can also log voltages and currents as well. There is a 1Hz limitation to this software though. The minimum interval in the automatic mode is 1second regardless of the value in the csv file. The logger also only updates once per second. However, any changes to voltage/current/output are immediately sent to the power supply so you could in theory write your own program to switch faster than 1secSet voltage and current seems to be within spec. 5V reads as 4.995V on my meter (which is only 6000counts). There is an extra 0.005A offset on the current limiter even when set to 0.000A.The fan is temp controlled and while not at all silent, it's hardly a screamer. I don't find it any louder than the good old rigol 1052E scope.The whole thing is controlled by an Atmel ATMEGA8 chip. You can probably make out the resistor network it uses in there for something (made up of heaps of single SMD resistors).When I was first testing mine using a 12V 50w halogen bulb, it cut out after a few minutes of operation. I thought it might be faulty or perhaps it was overheating? The fan wasn't coming on at all... So, I opened it up, and well, the fan had come unplugged during shippingWould have preferred that they use a more secure connector for that. In any case, I now know it does have an over temp shutoff. One of the screws holding the top PCB had sheared off, but that was an easy fix. Other than the rough handling damage, everything else looks respectable.The front panel buttons are hard plastic with clicky tactile switches behind them. From the photos I thought they might have been the nice soft squishy rubber type. Rotary encoder is smooth and isn't notchy at all. As you can see in the photos, the PCB was designed for a different encoder, so they've used a couple of jumper leads here. Solder joints and wiring looks clean though so no big deal. Makes it easier to replace if I have to in the futureBest thing about this compared to a normal supply: Presets and Output switches! Has 5 memory presets which are saved to eeprom (survives power off). Just set voltage/current values, press shift button then the desired Mx preset button. Output switch is handy instead of having to turn the supply on and off each time. I should also note that when switching to a new preset, the output gets disabled. If you accidentally hit a preset button for 32V/5A you won't smoke whatever device you have plugged inI've got a couple of videos showing how the front panel operates as well as the software, but they are 1080p and over 500mb each. Going to take a while to upload to youtubeWill also take some noise and turn on/off readings with a scope when I get some spare time.Vids are a bit boring but a video tells a thousand wordsSetting Memory PresetsPC SoftwareVantec 3305P SpecsUSB and cable YesOutput Voltage 0-32VOutput Current 0-5ASource Effect CV:0.05%+5mV; CC:0.1%+2mALoad Regulation CV:0.05%+5mV; CC:0.2%+5mARipple and Noise CV:2.0mVrms; CC:3mArmsProtect Type: Over current, over voltage and over temperature protect.Display Accuracy Voltage?±(0.5?+2digits); Current: ±(0.5?+10digits)Environment Temperature: 0 - +40?, RH?80?Response time Up<50ms; down<5msPower supply 220V±10? AC50Hz/60Hz; 110V±10? AC50Hz/60HzWeight 6kgSize 100x160x275(mm)Accessories Manual x1, power cord x1?USB cable x1, CDx1

author: armandas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2011, 01:39:16 pm
content: Quote from: metalphreak on December 08, 2011, 12:24:17 pmIt looks like they are using four shift registers and an R-2R network to make a 32-bit (or is it 2x16 in parallel?) DAC.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2011, 02:39:11 pm
content: Looks like a supply with fine potential once the assembly flaws are fixed. It appears as a linear supply with digital controls. Just a tiny touch nosier than a pure linear supply, but that's the cost of the programmability.For examplehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/MASTECH-LINEAR-DC-POWER-SUPPLY-0-15-VOLTS-0-3-AMPS-/200453517859?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eabf5f223MASTECH HY1503COutput Voltage: 0- 15V @ 3AOutput Current: 0-3 AInput Voltage: 110V/ 60HzConstant voltage/ Constant CurrentVoltage and Current adjustmentPower effect: CV<0.01%+1mV, CC<0.2% + 1mAOverload effect: CV<0.01% +3mV, CC<0.2% +3mAWaves and noises: CV<0.5mV r.m.s, CC 3mA, r.m.sProtection: High current limited.Ripple & Noise: <1mV rmsOutput Current: 0-3 AOperating Temperature: 0 - 102 F (0 -40 C), Relative Humidity: <90%LCD Accuracy is within + or - 2.5%Size: 9 x 6 3/4 x 3 3/4"Weight: 8 lbs6 month warranty

author: Teknotronix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2012, 06:50:58 pm
content: How do you rate this supply after having it for a month or so? Still worth buying? Have you measured the noise on the output?

author: Fender123
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 11, 2012, 08:01:16 am
content: Hi all,I have one of these, from GoodLuckBuy, same 'DPS 3305P' marked Vantek but without the USB connector. I found some flaws with it - maybe it's just my unit, but I doubt it.Basically, it is stable, low drift, accurate. But...1. If you short circuit the terminals with less than 0.2 ohms, current is limited. But if you then turn off the output by pressing the o/p button, an unlimited current (>7A) flows without any indication. *** FAIL FAIL FAIL ***2. Way too much AC leakage (electrostatic shield inneffective) - like 100Vac floating, 31uAac shorted, with 220Vac i/p. *** FAIL FAIL FAIL ***3. There is a rather large electrolytic capacitor across the output terminals that spoils the current limit performance.4. Not sure why it needs a 10A fuse, too large. For 220V, T2A is enough.5. Usability-wise, the only thing I don't like is that when storing a setup, the output is turned off.6. Construction-wise, the IEC inlet has an exposed live lug too close to heatsinks; not clear how this can pass Hi-Pot test. *** FAIL FAIL FAIL ***Re: point #1, I would appreciate if any owners can verify.

author: Teknotronix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2012, 08:40:14 am
content: I have one of these in the post coming from preciseguage.com. I will do some tests when it arrives.

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2012, 02:12:56 pm
content: Thank you for documenting this sir!Some say E cores transformer are better suited for a low noise power supply I don't know if this is true, but toroid sure looks a lot cooler! Toroids cost more to manufacture too.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2012, 06:26:22 pm
content: Quote from: nukie on March 11, 2012, 02:12:56 pm"Some say" But "All say" toroids are better .Toroids have less leakage inductance and therefore , less EMI and easier going when it comes to filtering .BUT ! ... They have a huge startup inrush current .In fact , RS sells more toroids than they sell EI core Transformers .

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2012, 08:19:06 pm
content: To solve the toroid inrush current you need to add a NTC inrush limiter, and replace the 10A fuse with a 5A or so slow blow fuse. That will drop the inrush current and keep it from causing massive dips on the mains on switch on.

author: Teknotronix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2012, 12:47:49 am
content: I received mine this week from preciseguage.com. Nice little unit for the price. Looking to order another one.I will take the lid off it soon and post some pics to compare with MetalPhreak's. I will also try that inrush current issue.

author: Teknotronix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2012, 09:35:39 am
content: Here are some internal pics of my Vantek. It is the same 32V 5A model.

author: Teknotronix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 06:33:56 am
content: For everyones's reference. I recently bought a second one of these supplies but was sent a Yori branded unit. These are technically the same but suffer from the same turn on voltage spike as the Quakko. Here are the results of my tests. Note that my Vantek unit does not suffer this issue.IMO, no matter who you purchase from, make sure you specify Vantek as these seem like a better build overall.

author: Fender123
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 06:50:18 am
content: Has anyone checked about the unlimited short circuit current issue when turning output off, and AC leakage current I mentioned? (See my previous message)

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 11:59:52 am
content: Teknotronix: is the Yori the same inside? I highly suspect the firmware is the root cause of the Quakko/Yori issues. Perhaps the current limiting fail of Fender123's unit is due to some poor control programming. I don't have any Atmel tools to try and dump the code from mine, but if you do, you could try flashing the code from the Vantek unit onto the Yori? That's if it isn't code protected...I'm in the middle of moving my "lab" around (again...) but I'll try to make some time on the weekend to test out Fender123's issues.

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 12:29:41 pm
content: Has anyone found a good USA source for these?Or a reliable source for the Vantek brand without the turn on issues?

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 12:44:08 pm
content: Seems to also be sold under the name Quakko -http://www.mastechpowersupply.com/dc-power-supply/linear-power-supply/programmable-dc-power-supply-32v-5a-lab-grade-hy3005dp/prod_49.html

author: Teknotronix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 12:45:15 pm
content: Quote from: metalphreak on March 21, 2012, 11:59:52 amThe Yori appears to be identical inside. The sales person where I bought it from says they even come out of the same Caltek factory. Your idea about the firmware is interesting. I also don't have the Atmel tools, but if someone here can guide me in doing so I will happily take a look at my earliest convenience.

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 03:06:51 pm
content: <-- you can see the Atmel chip here (I may have incorrectly guess it being an ATMEGA8 but its definitely an Atmel)<-- that 6 pin header is almost definitely the in circuit programming connectionSomeone with *any* experience with the atmel programming tools will probably be able to help you much more than mehttp://www.atmel.com/Images/doc0943.pdfVCC, MOSI, MISO, SCK, RESET, and GND would be the 6 connections. Something like an AVR ISP should be able to read it *if* they haven't got any code protection bits set.

author: Teknotronix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 03:13:51 pm
content: Quote from: metalphreak on March 21, 2012, 03:06:51 pmThanks mate. Might have to get myself an Atmel programmer/debugger. Too bad the old PIC Kit 3 I have does not work.

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 03:25:03 pm
content: Quote from: george graves on March 21, 2012, 12:44:08 pmSeems to have more mem keys? And added some LED's.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 03:26:59 pm
content: It's this one right ?http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/428683956-MA009-30V-5A-mA-Display-Digital-Store-DC-Programmable-Power-Supply-DPS3305P-Programming-DC-Power-Supply-wholesalers.html167$ for a programmable supply sounds good .But i'm still buying a 30V/5Amps for 71$

author: Teknotronix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 04:05:54 pm
content: There must be a diff in the firmware of these as this Quakko has more memory locations with the same amount of buttons. This firmware difference must be the reason for the differences in the spikes as its the only thing that is different between them, as the internal appear to be exactly the same on mine.

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 07:43:55 pm
content: Ah - there is a thread on these already.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/0-32v-0-5a-with-usb-control-protek-p6035-quakko-hy3005dp/This might be the "original" version (others being knock offs?)http://www.protektest.com/Prodinfo.asp?prodid=P6035

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 09:09:38 pm
content: Quote from: george graves on March 21, 2012, 07:43:55 pmProtek has sold rebadged stuff in the past. That might be another one.

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 09:41:41 pm
content: I emailedhttp://mastechpowersupply.comQuoteQuoteI wonder what spec of a relay would be best for a 555 timer added to the output?

author: rowant
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2012, 05:31:22 am
content: I grabbed one of these Vantek PSU's for $135 off ebay delivered, however, I made a stupid mistake and managed to break my ICD3 programmer and the board I was attempting to program..I'm guessing it was because I forgot to link negative to ground, and a path was created from negative (I hadn't even connected positive yet!), through the programmer cable, through the USB cable through earth and back - however it was a massive amount of current, enough to melt the programming port and lead, as well as pop a PIC32, DP83848 phy transceiver and 34V SMPS IC, with just negative connected..After having a look at the difference between negative and earth/gnd, I noticed that it sometimes creates a 30-50v DC offset from negative to gnd, and if I attempt to short the two I get a massive spark, is that normal?? Is it safe to connect negative to gnd permanently like on other PSU's if I won't want it floating? I'm worried it'll blow itself up lolAlso, on this Vantek unit it doesn't do the voltage overshoot when powering up, nor does it supply excessive current when shorted when the output is turned off.

author: rowant
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2012, 06:54:18 am
content: Hrm ok, I put a meter on 10A current test mode and connected it from negative to gnd/earth, technically it should just make the psu not floating right? Instead, when I turned it (for the brief 500ms) the meter went into over range and I heard like a intense heating up sound from inside the PSU (like plastic cracking), so I immediately turned it off.This is not normal!Edit:Ok, so in addition to that issue I also found that when using the wheel to adjust the voltage on the fly with the output enabled you'll get random sudden spikes 15+VDC above the setting very briefly.. I can't connect my scope to see this because if I did that my scope's ground cable will MELT because of the above issues mentioned, so its completely useless if I want to use a scope on anything powered by this power supply. Here's a short video I took of the issue with it connected to my multimeter instead:https://www.youtube.com/embed/WeN_tQPRwvk

author: megajocke
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2012, 10:24:56 pm
content: Is the negative output negative in relation to the ground terminal? If that is the case I'd suspect that there is a short between the collector (tab/back plate) of the pass transistors to chassis of the instrument. Maybe they aren't properly mounted to their heatsink or the insulating pads could be damaged.

author: rowant
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2012, 08:15:13 am
content: Yeah both output terminals are negative in relation to the ground terminal, and the voltage difference does actually change with the selected voltage on the knob from ~20v to 50v.I think you're right about it being a short somewhere, if I tap the rear of the power supply or move it about the voltage difference jumps about. I've taken the cover off and tried to have quick look but didn't see anything obvious in the time I looked, I'll take a closer look later in the week.This video shows the DC voltage between Ground and the Negative terminal and it changing when adjusting the output voltage (even with the output off):

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2012, 10:57:29 am
content: Definitely something up with yours. I get a reading in the millivolts range between negative and ground which is essentially all noise. Shorting out negative to ground and there is no current. Check the transistor insulation because sometimes if its not installed correctly it can pierce the insulating pad and its not obvious (and it would be touching the grounded heatsink).Are you running yours on 110v or 220v?

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2012, 02:25:35 pm
content: Is that only my impression or does it look SURPRISINGLY similar to the Korad PSU that has blown up during Dave's tests?

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2012, 02:47:50 pm
content: Quote from: poorchava on August 14, 2012, 02:25:35 pmIt's basically the same model ...

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2012, 09:07:59 am
content: Yeah it's similar but not the same. Most of the power supplies out of China use the same generic parts. The chassis, front panel, control boards, and so on. Seems to be a bit of a mixed bag in terms of exactly what internals you will get, what revision board, firmware etc. I seem to have been incredibly lucky with all of my Chinese gear purchases although you really only ever see people posting if they have issues (as is the case with any product). Then again, I am more than happy to spend a bit of time fixing or improving some of the small issues, considering the rather good prices.

author: rowant
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2012, 04:33:30 am
content: 220VACI've pulled it all apart, the back of the two transistors there was no insulating pad, just the metal on the rear onto the heatsink direct (with some thermal paste). I've insulated the entire heatsink from the case now though and it seems better. The voltage still jumps up high when adjusting the voltage with the output enabled though, so I have to disable the output, change the voltage, then re-enable which is pretty annoying..

author: carter_383
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 09, 2023, 01:24:03 pm
content: Hi,Sorry for reviving such an old thread.Is anyone able to upload a copy of the software provided on the CD, I recently got one of these on eBay and i cant find anything online manuals or software.Failing that i assume this is a clone of another PSU does anyone know what the original is?Many ThanksCharles