Another soldering iron thread (FX-951, FM-203, etc) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: staze
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2016, 06:32:47 pm
content: All,I'm ready to make the jump to a "real" iron. I've been looking at the JBC irons for a while, but I'm having a hard time justifying the price when the FX-951 is 40% less here in the states. I love my 936, and my Weller WTCPT, but they're just not quite "there" when it comes to high thermal mass boards.But after looking at the FX-951, I see that the FM-203 can take a desoldering tool, and SMD tweezers. Meaning I could have an "all in one" tool... That said, I already have an FR-300 desoldering gun, so the desoldering part isn't that big of a deal. The tweezers might be nice, but I'm not sure how much I'd use them.Am I just crazy, and I should just get the FX-951 and be done with it, or...? I kind of hate that the FX-951 won't take SMD tweezers when they have an upgrade kit or the 888D that does! =/Thanks!

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 12:40:20 am
content: Tough call to make. I have a 951 and I like it. I have a selection of tips for it and I think it is a great station. That said I also have a Metcal MX-500 with the Talon tweezers that I got in a barter trade with the local surplus store. I tested the tweezers to make sure they work but haven't used them as I don't play with smd, though maybe someday that will change. I did add a proper wand/cradle and tips and that is another great system but deals are hard to come by.Don't debate it too long-go with your first instinct. I know when I have second guessed myself and didn't go with my gut feeling initially, I came out disappointed.

author: staze
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 05:11:03 am
content: Good to know. Yeah, I'm really not sure I'd use tweezers. And the only thing I don't like about my FR-300 is they don't make a "nozzle" for it (for desoldering things like heatsink "legs"). They make one for the FR-400 though. =/Could you (or someone with a 951) do me a favor? I have a very specific spot for soldering irons, and I need to know the full height from bench top to the top of the switch on top. Could you measure? Any unit is fine... Hakko says 130mm, but I want to make sure that's correct for the full height.Thanks!

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 06:50:03 am
content: Given your above statement, go for the FX-951.You really can't beat the value here in the US; actually it's right about half the cost of a JBC compact station w/ a T245 iron ($460 + shipping) when you use the EEVBlog discount code at TEquipment (ends up at $222.30 shipped). You'd need a tip since Hakko doesn't include any, which would add $9.84 for a common profile, such as a 2.4mm chisel (you'll want more of course, but there's no need to go crazy).If you need tweezers later, you can look to the used market for decent equipment at a decent deal.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 10:51:04 am
content: High thermal mass boards are always a problem for soldering irons. One of the solutions is to get a hot-air station and those are really cheap nowadays (Atten 858D+ for example). I have a second one as a spare unit because I need it to help me make a living but buying 2 was still way cheaper than getting an A-brand one.

author: staze
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 04:20:32 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on July 12, 2016, 10:51:04 amYup, have one. Actually thinking about getting some type of stand so I can "preheat" a board when they're being real problems. =)

author: staze
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 04:24:38 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on July 12, 2016, 06:50:03 amGood point on the tweezers. Okay, I think I'm sold. The FM-203 sure looks sexy, but I can't find answers to things like "Can I have one iron default to sleep until I remove it?". As in, if I have an FM-203 on my bench, and two handpieces, can I only wake up one of them from a powered off state. (I have a master switch for all my "hot" gear so I don't accidentally leave stuff on). I want to flip that switch, have the unit turn on, but leave the irons cold until I wake them up (lift them, press a button, whatever). The second iron would then stay cold until I did the same. But guessing that's not how things work.I've got a quote off to tequipment to see if they can beat the eevblog discount for an EDU (buying all of this through work). Think I'll also buy the microsoldering handpiece. I'll just have to flip between the two (not a problem, just small annoyance). Heck, I should see if Hakko wants to sell me a demo unit. =P

author: staze
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 09:22:09 pm
content: Just pulled the trigger on the 951. Got the microsoldering handpiece, bent tip for it, and an extra holder and bent tip for the main handpiece. Didn't bother with second "stand". Total was just under $400. Bargain.Thanks all!

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2016, 07:05:51 am
content: Quote from: staze on July 12, 2016, 04:20:32 pmI find a Panavise315head useful for this as my cheap Tenma preheater that came with some absolutely useless magnetic PCB clamps (+ a 300 base & steel plate I made for it). There's a kit that includes the head, clamp/mount, round base plate, and a couple of accessories (324 Electronic Workcenter).Quote from: staze on July 12, 2016, 04:24:38 pmGenerally speaking, if the stands are connected to the station (digital), they can work this way (don't wake/heat until removed from the stands if set that way). If they are set to idle, but timeout, the station may need to turned off and back on (the FX-951 would be such an example IIRC).Quote from: staze on July 12, 2016, 04:24:38 pmEducation discount = 5%EEVBlog discount = 6%They don't combine discounts as a rule, but it has happened a couple of times I'm aware of due to a programming error on their website. FWIW, it's been a good while since it happened last, so I think they plugged that hole permanently (seemed to turn up again after being plugged due to an update to their webstore when it occurred).Quote from: staze on July 12, 2016, 09:22:09 pmNice!Please let us know how well the FM-2032 does in the stand that comes with it if you would (hope to pass on some good news if it works).Enjoy it when it shows up. You'll definitely be impressed, particularly compared to what you're currently used to.

author: jwrelectro
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 24, 2016, 07:49:49 pm
content: I know it's been a few days but here are some answers:staze, I measured the height of the soldering station case from bottom to top and it is 130 mm but if you include the rocker power switch I get approximately 136 mm.nanofrog, the standard holder doesn't work very well with the FM-2032 because it takes just the right position to not fall into the stand. Please see included picture.staze, if you haven't purchase the FX-951 yet please check out my review... it might be helpful.https://youtu.be/YYZs_pewRd4John

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 03:16:20 pm
content: Quote from: jwrelectro on July 24, 2016, 07:49:49 pmSo the FM-2032 kit is required for that iron then. That sucks, but good to know. .FWIW, either the Weller WDH10T or WDH20T work with WP80, WMP, and new WP65 irons (tip holder portion is all that changes). How foolish of me to think Hakko would do something similar that would allow members to save some cash.Thanks.

author: staze
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 04:16:25 pm
content: So, I did actually buy the FX-951, and so far, really like it. I already burned myself on it (within the first couple hours) by muscle memory taking over and a finger trying to "balance" the iron, and accidentally touching the "tip". 's what I get for trying to solder something without using anything to "hold" the item.While I agree that the FM-2032 doesn't work very WELL in the standard stand, it does work okay, and I haven't had any issues with it falling in. But, I also don't solder enough to be able to blindly put the iron back in the stand, so I'm looking when I place it. I do know Louis Rossmann does this same thing (uses the FM-2032 with the standard stand), but he admits that's because he's cheap. I didn't buy it because I'd have to swap sensor cables, and I don't want to have another stand on my bench. Yeah, Hakko probably could have "made it work" or at least just sell a replacement yellow "holder" to swap out. =/But so far, I really like the unit.

author: Reprobyte
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2018, 12:45:59 am
content: Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I know this will be useful to anyone who has read through and thinks they need to buy the full FM2032 stand kitAll you need is to purchase the (part number) B5000 - Iron Receptaclehttps://www.hakkousa.com/products/replacement-parts/b5000.htmlThis can literally be swapped over in a few seconds.It even clarifies that this can be done on Hakko's page lower down:http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fm2032_parts.htmlAttached a screenshot. Hope this helps someone!

author: GregDunn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 05:33:39 pm
content: I'm going to keep this thread alive for a moment, since it's related to the FX-951 and parts.One of my T15 tips caught on the handle's contacts when I removed it, and bent one of the contact sleeves. I was able to re-align it and put it back in place with a tiny spot of epoxy, but I'm a bit concerned that this might happen again and damage the handle. I started thinking about a spare handle (which might be a good thing to have, given that these things sometimes get superseded by newer incompatible models; I just went through this with my Ungar 9000).Hakko wants a rather steep price for the FM-2027 handle assembly. Does anyone have experience with 951-compatible handles? They can be had on Amazon for under $20, but of course it's probably a clone and I've read that they aren't wired the same as a Hakko unit. If they're generally dodgy I'll just spend the extra for a real handle, but if it's the same electrically, I'll pick one up and try it. Here's a link to one example:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QZ8TFH