Wire strippers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: npelov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 05:28:28 pm
content: I orderedwire strippersfrom dealextreme.com and they work fine for bigger cables, but I needed strippers for small cables (something to replace my teeth).So I picked old cutters and grinded them to desired shape. And because I didn't have flat cutters to sacrifice I grinded those to be flat on the one side. They work pretty well. Better than I expected.If you don't have strippers like these I highly recommend making them. The cutters only cost $2. and it took me more time to write this post than to make them.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 06:15:40 pm
content: My first wire stripper was one that looked like this :http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/irwin-6-inch-vde-wire-stripperThey're just OK, not very good for thin wires because as you have to squeeze the handle to go through the insulation, you can also cut the thin wires. The one i bought was branded Black & Decker and was probably 5$.Later, I found a "parrot" wire stripper from the same Black & Decker company for about 10-15$ .. obviously it's not made by them, they probably just rebrand it so probably any eBay one will work reasonably well. Here's an example of one that looks very very similar to mine:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOMATIC-WIRE-STRIPPERS-PARROT-TYPE-JAW-/121059285324This one works much better, even for thin wires.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 07:12:20 pm
content: Nice jobYou can do more precisely and easily by using a tapered diamond mandrel.Gently closing the cutters on the spinning mandrel at the right axial location for the diameter you want will generate a nice round tapered hole. Just grind deeper with the mandrel to get larger holes.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 07:39:18 pm
content: Nice.I use a Pressmaster Embla.Different blade cartridges makes it extremely versatile (3x different blade cartridges available), and the cost is reasonable as a result IMHO (frame w/ 1set of general purpose straight blades <grey cartridge> can be had for ~$54 in the US fromhere). Other cartridges are for large wire (red; 10-5AWG) and Teflon (blue; 28-10AWG). At least based on the pricing here, $125 gets you a stripper system that can do most anything you'd ever need for bench use IMHO.Gets rebranded a lot, such as Wiha and Xcelite for example (quite a bit of markup vs. Waytek though @ ~$90 for the exact same tool). At least Pressmaster's own label is more available in Europe from what I understand, so that could help on pricing.

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 08:30:00 pm
content: Yep, I have the Xcelite branded version (which I bought for ~$50 or so a whole bunch of years ago). Works really well for teflon insulated wire which I use for most hookup/test leads on my bench (I use high strand silicone for power test leads - but that is easily "stripped" with fingernails...). I'm still on the original teflon cartridge and still sharp as can be.Highly recommended for teflon.I have an Ideal Stripmaster (10 - 22 AWG jaw) for standard insulation, especially when doing vehicle accessory wiring etc.I prefer a sized stripper to minimize nicking of wire (solid or typically stranded) versus a side cutter - but will use one of those if desperate.cheers,george.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 08:55:59 pm
content: Quote from: georges80 on March 24, 2014, 08:30:00 pmAny particular reason for this other than being able to use a sized nest to prevent nicking/cutting?I ask, as I've used mine for this with the standard blades (grey cartridge), and generally, get excellent results (no nicks/cut strands).Only time there's a problem, is when the insulation has hardened (blades don't cut deep enough, and scrape the insulation rather than stripping it). Can be overcome either by grabbing the jaws and applying a bit more pressure (do run the risk of nicking/cutting; practice helped), and/or swapping to a different cartridge (usually the blue one for Teflon, as the V shape cuts more surface area for most wire sizes).Bit of a hack when I have to do this, but I find it easier than trying to size the nest, as I get it wrong enough times the same issues occur anyway (less than ideal eyesight).

author: npelov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 09:06:02 pm
content: I tried to getone of theselocally but they were pretty bad. there was gap between the ... 2 cutting edge just enough to pass small wire. So I didn't also bother ordering from ebay - didn't want to get 6 of them before realize they are all bad.I hadone of these(a cheaper one) and in order to work you need to put longer part of the cable inside. If you put shorter - it doesn't hold it well. And it's not a big deal - you cut it after you strip it, but why 2 actions instead of one. Also sometimes you need precise length to minimize the excess wire (and the mess). Of course if I pay $54 for a good brand things might be different, but I could buy a car for $54... well not here, but there is probably some place you can.The only good solution I could think of was theone I bought from DX(I mean this type of strippers), but I couldn't find one that can strip really thin wires.The "Ideal Stripmaster" (looked it up) looks nice, but do you really need something to pull the insulation. You could just pull the cable. If you choose the correct size, most of the insulation is cut and you won't need too much force.@robrenz I plan to have 1-2 of them. I love my proxxon. But in this case I was just frustrated that the strippers I got didn't work with small wires that I rushed into making one. Of course I knew at the time of ordering - it's on the photo, but it takes ages for these things to ship and I forgot. I thought I will have nice strippers.I'll probably buy cheap flat cutters and make better ones. One disadvantage is that I cant' see where to put the cable on the flat side - the hole is too small to see and sometimes (not very often) I put it in a way the cable is damaged. So the next ones I'll grind on both sides, just to have guides.Of course if I find good pair ofthesefor smaller cables, for reasonable price I would buy it. Cables always cause me troubles. I can't find thin colored cables sold by meter. I'm using alarm installation cable - strip it and take the wires out of it. I found some on farnell.com, but they only sell 100 meters. I found some on the internet, but they cost about $0.50 to $1.00 per meter. That's a robbery. I don't mind paying a lot, but the thing I'm buying must be worth.

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 09:12:15 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on March 24, 2014, 08:55:59 pmYep, specifically so the slot it sized correctly and to prevent nicking. Last thing I need when 4wding out into the middle of nowhere is an electrical issue that *I* createdI prefer to save the other stripper for teflon duties - I never trade out the cartridge from it. So, makes it easy, one tool for teflon insulation, the other tool for everything else.OP:Having the tool hold the insulation (both strippers do this) is MUCH better than trying to hold with your fingers and having the insulation stretch. When stripping a whole bunch of wires (harness etc), it is nice to have a tool that produces repeatable strips at the length you want it to and saves wear and tear on your hands.cheers,george.

author: Neverther
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 09:13:03 pm
content: This toolat local shop is five times the price. The local one has more openings.Ideal stripmaster as stated above, pretty nice for normal use.That thing is good for the price if it works and atleast in 2012 it had good reviews.Nanofrog:I've stripped wires from center for stealing signal/power. It does it easily just by pushing the insulator a bit.It is fast when you get hold of it.I borrowed mine once and my friend tried pulling the wire out without releasing the grip at all.Then he released all the way and flattened the strands...Releasing the grip a little frees the wire but keeps the cutting jaws shut and the ends pulled apart.Npelov:Pulling the cable is sometimes nono.And that thing is just nice to use.

author: FrankenPC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 09:45:54 pm
content: Show and tell: These are my only automatic strippers. I've had them for about 25 years now. Never replaced or sharpened the blades. Amazing workmanship. I don't see it on Google (quick search). Maybe it's just re-branded from something else.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 09:56:08 pm
content: Quote from: npelov on March 24, 2014, 09:06:02 pmNever been a fan of the first type (PITA to set properly IME). The one you tried may not have been rated to as small a wire as you were using (do check the specs, as there's no true one-size-fits-all).Second type work well, if manufactured correctly (Pressmaster, Knipex, Wiedmuller, Rennsteig, Wekzug, ...). The cheap ones, not so much. Lots of mixed reviews to what I would assume is highly variable QC.Third type work, but I've had nicked wire too often for my taste, even when there wasn't a mistake on my end (put the wire in the correct sized nest).As per wire, look for remnants of large spools.Quote from: georges80 on March 24, 2014, 09:12:15 pmSimple enough.And given the costs of both strippers, quite reasonable for separate tools IMHO.Quote from: Neverther on March 24, 2014, 09:13:03 pmNever used one of that type for stripping in the middle of a wire. Seen aTorused for this though, and they work (cut a ring, spiral, then cut another ring, and peel the spiral off).As per the Ideal type, I was taught by an avionics tech to not squeeze all the way; just enough to separate it from the rest of the insulation, then pull it off gently by hand (don't want the stripped insulation to fly off, as the wire can get nicked that way). That lesson is still stuck in my head all these years later.

author: FrankBuss
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 11:33:42 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on March 24, 2014, 07:39:18 pmThis looks similar to the one I use, a Weidmüller stripax:http://www.amazon.de/Abisolierzange-stripax-0-08-10qmm-Weidmüller/dp/B000T7SGWIWorks very well and fast, much better than the teeth or wire-cutter method, for a wide range of wire diameters.

author: npelov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 11:56:37 pm
content: What does 'nicking' mean? Is it scratching the wire or cutting few of the wires of multi-wire cable? I don't see any damage on the cable although I would expect the ones I made to damage the cable once in a while.I'm not too picky about wire stripping. I just needed something that does it fast and it had to be able to strip 3-4 mm to avoid cutting the excess. And it's only for prototyping. If I had to do tons of production wires then I would probably get something from well known brand. Sometimes it's not worth the money for buying all the best on the market. If I had all the best pliers, cutters, screwdrivers and a lot of other tools ... it would cost me the price of an decent oscilloscope. So I'm not fan of always buying the best out there. Even if you have the money you should think if there is a better way to spend it.@Neverther I missedthis onewhen I was looking. It has 0.5mm ... but it jumps to 1.2. I would rather have few in between.But anyway. I never had a pair a good strippers in my hands. If I had one and used it for 10 minutes I might decide to buy it. But for 60+ EUR it has to do the dishes too...

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 02:41:42 am
content: Quote from: npelov on March 24, 2014, 11:56:37 pmNicking is when there's a partial cut or scrape on one or more of the copper strands (or solid wire, if it's a single conductor). Essentially, any damage to the copper, but none is fully cut through and missing.Missing strands are more severe damage, aka cut strands, and either type of damage reduces the current capacity of the wire (reduced cross section at the point where it's damaged, thus increasing resistance).Quote from: npelov on March 24, 2014, 11:56:37 pmTrue, but for something used as often as strippers, pliers, and cutters, you don't want to scrape the bottom of the barrel either IMHO (more expensive in the long run, and a lot of aggravation tacked on as well due to poor performance). There's very well priced tools out there if you look, even in pricier markets such as Europe. One example in the pliers and cutters category, would beSchmitz(rare instance they are absolute top quality without costing an arm and a leg; much cheaper than Knipex, Erem, Tronex, or Lindstrom for example). ~$16 - 23EUR per pair vs. 2-3x that or more for brands mentioned.In the case of wire strippers, the Ideal Stripmaster can be had for ~$43USD here while say a top notch pair of Knipex can run ~$150 of similar construction. Quite a difference for example, and both are excellent tools.Lots of info here that could help you locate such tools. All this said, for rarely used tools, I agree less expensive can make a lot more sense for a hobbyist IMHO.Quote from: npelov on March 24, 2014, 11:56:37 pmSadly, those haven't been invented yet, let alone would make it at that price point.

author: Blechi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 03:33:38 am
content: Depending on the job i use several different strippers:Knipex 11 06 160 VDE Abisolierzange(general purpose)Knipex WZ KN 62(fine wires, teflon etc., an expensive, but very precise tool. Unlike the cheap ones it doesn't wear out.)WEICON Abisolierzange No.5(switching cabinet, wiring in the house)Weicon Rundkabel-Stripper No. 13Weicon Kabelmesser Nr. 4-28H(for the bigger ones)btw what would you guys use to strip 1200(!) ends of enameled wire (0.6mm diameter, the high temperature variety) ?

author: calzap
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 04:28:01 am
content: For small wire, I use a cheap, small soldering iron with a chisel tip, one that dedicated to this purpose and other non-soldering tasks. Just burn a groove most of the way around and pull the insulation bit off. It's quick, and you won't nick the metal or remove any strands from stranded wire. Not for teflon though.Mike

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 06:32:04 am
content: We use these paladin strippers. I have actually found that i like the older design better but for most sane people these new ones would be more than fine. Ours have hundreds of thousands of stripping operations on them and we have only had one out of 5 fail in 25 years.http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-1113-Stripax-Stripper-Cutter/dp/B0006BHCFO

author: npelov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 11:17:00 am
content: Well it's not perfect. I did nick the wire once (it's visible on the photo) in 18 strips:http://download.nicksoft.info/pics/stripped.jpgbut it does the job. There were no cut strands.

author: 128er
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 12:46:56 am
content: Hey,interestingly, the wirestripper from calexanian, looks like a rebranded Weidmüller Stripax. But the old design. Not so long ago, they decided for a new design.The old one (below) i used daily for more than 6 years. And its still pretty good. The new one is a little bit wider and is better in the hand. Both are rated for 0,08 - 10 mm²

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 01:26:57 am
content: In the U.S. they were under the name paladin. Same strippers. Looked at them all today. The newest ones say stripax.

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 09:40:24 am
content: It seems they are a bunch of models that are made by many brands, but the quality varies, so a same looking model do not stands for same performance.I have just buy this55€ here:CLICK!The KNIPEX 1242195. There is a good looking animation of how it works here:CLICK!

author: kayvee
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 10:01:34 am
content: Quote from: calexanian on March 25, 2014, 06:32:04 amYeah we use these too (the old style), and average about 4000 strips per month.My only complaint would be that the orange plastic wire end stop wears away with extended use. So instead of a nice straight 90 degree face you end up a sloping face which has been eroded by the jagged ends of the copper wire after prolonged use, resulting is a variable length strip depending on the angle of the wire insertion before the jaws closed. Although I have tried. you can't get spare end stops for replacement.That said they do work very well.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 12:11:44 pm
content: Quote from: EdoNork on March 26, 2014, 09:40:24 amI have had these for a couple of years. You will be very happyAvailableherefor $89.95 in the US.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 12:22:25 pm
content: +1 to the KNIPEX 1242195, kinda expensive, but very very nice for small wires.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 01:44:07 pm
content: They are also Incredibly lightweight and very light force to actuate.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 02:55:07 pm
content: I looked at the Knipex pictured, as well as the Weidmuller Stripaxe, Embla, and a few others.Ended up with the Pressmaster Embla out of sheer dumb luck as I got it for free(perk due to hassle dealing with defective crimpers and die sets <phone calls, emails, and sent them a large bag full of test crimps>). As it turns out, it's cheaper here in the US at least than the others listed as a rebranded Waytek (555 stripper), and the additional blade cartridges make it more flexible for wire insulation types and sizes FWIW.Pressmaster seems to be more commonly available under their own name in other parts of the world, Europe in particular, but I'm not sure how it compares price wise.

author: npelov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 09:23:29 pm
content: Can someone show how these strippers work on a thin cable? What's the smallest strip you can do? Also can someone make a close up of the blades. They look like flat blades - no curve to allow the wire to pass through it. If so many people say they work well - I believe you. I'm just curious how they work.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 10:03:09 pm
content: Quote from: npelov on March 26, 2014, 09:23:29 pmWhich strippers? The knipex:I strip easily awg 30 with this, kynar type wires, no problem, clean cut of the isolation, no mark on the wire itselfBut remember there are other knipex strippers that looks like this one, but different range, its the 12-42-195 that I found was the best suited.

author: plesa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 10:25:37 pm
content: I have following ones for almost three yearshttp://se.farnell.com/knipex/121202/wire-stripper-ptfe/dp/3947877here you can see bladeshttp://se.farnell.com/knipex/12-19-02/spare-blade-pliers/dp/5714321They are capable to strip AWG28 PTFE wire without any issue.

author: 128er
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 11:04:13 pm
content: Quote from: npelov on March 26, 2014, 09:23:29 pmHere are closeups (as good as i can get it) from the new model of the Weidmüller Stripax. Its a type of lamellar arrangement. Many thin sheets form the whole blade.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2014, 02:42:18 am
content: Quote from: plesa on March 26, 2014, 10:25:37 pmI have that one also and I agree it does an outstanding job on Teflon insulation. But I only use it for the difficult insulations because it is not as handy and quick as the KNIPEX 1242195

author: kingoftaurus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2014, 03:16:23 am
content: My first wire strippers were my thumbnails. I was blessed to have thick strong nails, and I never struggled with just grabbing wire and ripping it right off.One time when I was younger, I carved a V shape into my thumbnail and made them work even better lol.But now I use eitherhttp://www.rsrelectronics.com/tools/100X_103S.jpg(100x)andhttp://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item_Lg.asp?picFile=/images/PWCS7.jpg(my favorite)

author: hemdale
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 05:18:14 pm
content: Hi guys,First time for me hereIt seems it's difficult to tell if Weidmuller is reranding Embla or the other way around... :confused:Also, it seems the front jaws of the Knipex 12 42 195 are made of metal ? Would that be any better than the plasticky ones ?http://www.weidmueller.com/int/products/tools/stripping/product-overviewPressmaster by Emblahttp://www.pressmaster.se/products/#strip_and_cutand Klauke...http://www.klauke.com/katalog/en/k-43-2-automatic-stripping-tool-0-02-10mm/All these three VERY similar strippers. Does anyone know if one of them (I'm assuming the original designer / manufacturer) would be better ?So far, I have the Weicon S4-28 Multihttp://www.weicon.com/pages/ca/products/stripping-tools/cable-stripper/cable-stripper-multi.phpandhttp://www.weicon.com/pages/en/download/technical-datasheet/TDS_50057328_EN_EN-Cable-Stripper-No.-S-4---28-Multi.pdfwhich works fine but I find the cable rotative stripper to regularly cut straight (so you end up cutting a spiral...)Many thanks.Cheers guys.

author: Pjotr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 05:59:01 pm
content: Al those automatic strippers that come along here are based on the original AMP automatic stripper. At first sight those days, such a plastic thing can't be good. But... it is now in my toolbox for over 35 years and still stripping fine anything between 0.1mm2 and 2.5mm2. Only not pure PTFE (it flows too much). The Patent is over now and the design is widely copied by most major brands. My personal experience with the Knipex one is it stopped working after 5 years of use. Have no experience with the other brands.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 06:23:57 pm
content: Quote from: hemdale on January 29, 2016, 05:18:14 pmNeither.Both Weidmuller and Pressmaster manufacture their own products, and they both do ODM contracts as well. For example, the Embla is rebranded as the Klauke you linked, as well as Xcelite and Wiha for example. In the case of Weidmuller, they rebrand their strippers for Paladin, and it seems Knipex as well (hint: metal jaws).Quote from: hemdale on January 29, 2016, 05:18:14 pmYou'd think so, but as previously mentioned, they last a long time. I've a pair of automatic Jokari strippers that are from the '80's that are still going strong (AFAIK, Jokari actually invented the first automatic stripper). FWIW, you can even replace the plastic jaws on the Embla, and I'd imagine the Weidmuller's too (assuming you can find the parts).If you do decide to go for metal jaws, Weidmuller is the only company that makes them AFAIK (appear to rebrand several models for Knipex; Jokari too).

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 06:32:17 pm
content: Quote from: hemdale on January 29, 2016, 05:18:14 pmYes they are from matal. But I cannot recommend it as I have it myself. Better buy Stripax which is adjustable. This self adjustment of knipex does not work well with too many wires and you have no way to adjust it. In such cases blades pierce the insulation too shallow and just scrape the insulation instead of removing it.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 06:39:09 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on January 29, 2016, 06:32:17 pmFWIW, I've run into this with the Embla on old wire (hardened insulation), and they do have the ability to adjust the jaw pressure. In such cases, I grab the jaws and squeeze a bit during the strip cycle so they bite sufficiently into the insulation and strip the wire instead of just scraping it.

author: Pjotr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 06:41:32 pm
content: The metal (aluminium?) jaws of the Knipex are not a favour. They wear out over time and lose grip.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 06:43:19 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on January 29, 2016, 06:39:09 pmI've done this too. But it's a crap workaround and does not always work. Moreover it cannot strip multiple wires at once unlike stripax.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 07:04:49 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on January 29, 2016, 06:43:19 pmTrue, but it's better than nothing (and more convenient than digging around for a stripper that uses a die nest or a screw to adjust the cut depth).I know the Wiedmuller Stripax has form fitting blades (tiny individual blades in a row that are like teeth), but it's odd to me that the Knipex won't strip multiple conductors so long as it's flat and fits, and not PTFE insulation. The Embla will at any rate with the standard cartridge. My Jokari's don't as they've V shaped blades, as is the PTFE/Teflon cartridge for the Embla.

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 07:14:34 pm
content: Quote from: Pjotr on January 29, 2016, 05:59:01 pmThis has me wondering. Who was the original manufacturer of this very tool. I have two identical ones from pre 1980. one labeled Paladin,and the other stripax. Can anybody find a patent?

author: Pjotr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 07:50:39 pm
content: The first one I saw dated from the mid '70s and was labelled Stripax, at least here in Europe. This exactly was the same as the AMP I pictured. IMHO Stripax was taken over by AMP late '70 / early '80. I bought my AMP in 1981. I remember I was looking for a Stripax those days but it wasn't available any more. The representative came up with the AMP which was exactly the same thing. IMO those early ones outperform all the nowadays ones, apart from the specialised ones for very fine (PTFE isolation) wire.Found this:http://www.heilind.com/marketing/documents/weidmuller-stripax.pdfHere the original is dated 1976. It is now a trade name of Weidmüller, but it is not clear who was first that came up with it. Because my original seems indestructible, has a wide range and also strips flat cable, I would go for a simple Weidmüller today.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 09:32:31 pm
content: QuoteInteresting. Do you know anything about Thomas&Betts? The ERG-1 WS looks the same as all the other modern ones.But I bought an older "ERG-1" from the widow of an EE the better part of 10 years ago, and it looks more like the Stipax/AMP you pictured, except even more primitive. It lacks of any of the ergonomic/organic curves, anyway. There's radiusing on the edges, but everything is basically a straight line. It says "made in England."I don't know how old it is, but other than some surface rust on the blades, it looks like it could have been made yesterday. It's as solid as a brick house.I'll update this with a pic in a bit; Photobucket is down for maintenance. I don't know if it's a "missing link" or maybe just an evolutionary side-branch/dead-end. But it could be interesting in the context of this thread.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 10:37:01 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on January 29, 2016, 07:04:49 pmIt just won't pierce insulation in any of the wires if there is more than one and will just scrape the insulation. Their advertised auto adjustment feature. Also quality of the wire cutter is just crap. Edge of the one blade became as it was bitten even before I had a chance to cut a first wire with it.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 11:50:26 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on January 29, 2016, 10:37:01 pmGood to know.FWIW, I've noticed an increase of quality issues regarding Knipex products lately (pliers & cutters), but I figured they were an ODM'ed product from another manufacturer so wouldn't have been affected.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 30, 2016, 12:05:17 am
content: Quote from: Pjotr on January 29, 2016, 06:41:32 pmNo thy are made from some kind of steel (magnetic).

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2016, 05:43:51 am
content: Quote from: wraper on January 30, 2016, 12:05:17 amLaminated hardened steel. 30+ years and ours are still going right along at our assembly stations. lots of daily use. The ones used on our transformer trimming operation do hundreds of strips a day each and last 10 years + each and usually die from the plastic simply wearing out.

author: savril
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2016, 05:55:41 am
content: I used several stripers in the past (manual and cheap automatic) but I decided to go for a high end one. I bought a Weidmuller Stripax and I love this thing. Sure it was expensive but serenity has a price.You just have to set your length, insert the wire and press, done.Multiconductors ? No problem, in 2 pass.And lately I've done some hair thin stranded wire and I was very surprise than no strand were cut.The handles are plastic but there are thick enough (and with zigzag reinforcement bar) to inspire confidence that they will not be stressed and will last.That thing saved me a lot of time by its fast setting and the quality of the result. No more butcherized wire that I have to redo.The only thing I wonder is how well it can handle PTFE wire. I also haven't tested flat cable.

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2016, 06:19:33 am
content: Quote from: savril on January 30, 2016, 05:55:41 amPTFE is hit or miss. just too much lubricity and flow in the material to get a good grab, but if you have just the right tongue angle and stand on the right spot you can manage.

author: Pjotr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2016, 09:20:22 am
content: PTFE comes in several flavours. Tefzel and Kynar (trade names) are special formulations for stripping -> Automatic wire-wrapping. These will strip without problem. Pure PTFE requires special tooling. It flows instead of breaking/tearing and needs to be carefully cut.

author: CaveMannDave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2016, 10:26:40 am
content: Hi, all:Are there any Dedicated engineers here? The kind that Build something, rather than following only what others say, and make an Arduino act like a 555 and some logic gates?Sorry, that was TERRIBLY harsh, but not THAT long ago, Hacking was a way of life, not a weekend sidetrack to make some LEDs flash. We were ALWAYS on alert for stuff we could re-purpose, re-use, modify, adapt, or even outright DUPLICATE to achieve our OWN needs.How DO factories strip wires?It is often with expensive Thermal strippers, out of reach of many DIY engineers.But taking an IDEA can educate and serve as a lesson in Principles that little else can.Here are a few examples:http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/hakko-ft801-31-thermal-knife-blade-wirestripper-with-hot-knife-blades/p/477-915http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/patco-pts-10-thermal-wire-strippers/p/118-866http://www.series4.co.uk/prodeqpt/section01/ds5.htmThat was 3, one listed under $100.00US, and there were Ideas Abundant in the photos and descriptions.PLEASE don't whine that an ex-microwave-oven transformer, a few feet of heavy copper wire, some nichrome or iron wire (or, even Exotics, like Platinum or Tantalum), miscellaneous metal and insulating material fabricated pieces, a switch and perhaps relay or timer, and some good-old thinking and craftiness prices you out of the market: The hot wire should be the sole consumable, and a well-thought-out power circuit and Mechanical assembly should outlive the future use of copper wire and/or soldering.Multiple methodologies and details are visible in those links, and any man or woman with a mind to Create should be able to make a Production-Quality stripper that NEVER nicks wire!I wish you all the best of fortune!HTHCheers,Dave

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2016, 08:44:17 pm
content: ^I have a DIY handheld thermal stripper, specifically for smaller wires. Mostly 30AWG-20AWG. I figured out a way to make it work with a single li ion battery.Photo of my somewhat older-looking automatic wirestripper. This one looks a little different than all the other clones, anyway. It only works for what it wants. Depending on the insulation it might do 28AWG. And it will strip ribbon cables. But it's mostly good for 26AWG and up for single wires.The $10.00 parrot-head strippers work reasonably well, but they certainly don't last very long.

author: Paul Price
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2016, 07:03:07 pm
content: I have used these since I first started playing around with electronics..I always remove the spring so that I can adj. the clamping with my grip sense after tuning the limit nut for optimal stripping of #32 kynar wire. Never try to substitute skill for complexity and high price.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2016, 09:26:11 pm
content: Although I've a few lying around somewhere, I've never been fond of those ^ as I switch between different wire gauges frequently (PITA to set all the time, and too easy to get wrong IME). But I get your comment on skill (just as easily developed to use cutters instead of a dedicated wire stripper, which I still use on 30AWG & smaller).

author: hemdale
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2016, 10:17:44 pm
content: Just ordered today a Weidmuller Stripax, can't wait !Now I have to find a crimping plier and a good set of ferrules...will browse this forum a bit more

author: Paul Price
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2016, 10:22:31 pm
content: I adj. the screw-not setting only once, the the finest wire I have to work with.For all other wires sizes and cable I rely on technique, using just a light grip, rotating the stripper, examining the cut depth into the insulation(if I have a doubt I've underdone it or nicked the wire) and then re-apply the stripper, lightly squeeze and pull, if all looks well.What is so nice about this simple tool is that it isable to strip very close to the end of a wire, often the task when repairing or making connectors, it is compact and fits easily into a small tool kit, and it is cheap enough to have more than one, each tuned for wire sizes that I am often dealing with.I can also say I really like not having to deal with a large, clumsy in tight-spaces tool.

author: kerrsmith
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 12:55:27 pm
content: I use to work at a job where I needed to do loads of wire stripping to make small bodge wires for fixes on PCbs, I tried many different types so I thought I would mention the wire strippers I used, they are pretty expensive but work great.The ones I found best for me were C.K Precision wire strippers. You can set the diameter of the wire with the flower shaped end and then the length to strip off using the sliding part inside. I preferred them as you could have them set exactly right within seconds and know that the perfect amount of wire will be stripped. They also are quite small so are very easy to use with one hand.There are lots of different versions but the ones I found to be most useful were the 330011.30009 0.12 to 0.4mm diameter30011 0.3 to 1.0mm diameter (perfect for breadboard sized wire)30013 0.25 to 0.8mm diameter

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 01:54:01 pm
content: Agreed, those are really the only type that work well for kynar / wire-wrap wire for PCB mods.For normal wires try this sort:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Automatic-Electric-Cable-Wire-Stripper-Pliers-Adjustable-With-Extra-Blade-416322-/291529647165?hash=item43e085643d:g:md4AAOSw3ydVvmdBThey're cheap and effective and don't scuff the wire strands like the self adjusting types.

author: npelov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2019, 10:40:20 pm
content: Sorry for reviving this thread, but maybe some people would like to know what happened. The ones that I made work relatively nice. The problem withcommercial ones of this typeis that bevel is in different direction. That's why it's nicking the wires.The ones that have the strippers on the handlehave the bevel in the same direction (same side), but they are not convenient to use. Ideally you want the stripper to be near the end.So they work fine, but I boughtKnippex 12 40 200. They work really nice, but I hope they last forever because they are really expensive. I really don't know why they cost so much. The only problem I have with them is that I wish there were numbers on the strength dial so I can remember which number for which wire to use. They usually work just fine on middle setting, but for some thin and some thick wire they need adjustment (and for different materials).But I still use the old ones. For example the knippex do not work well on LAN cable - I use pieces of scrap lan cable for breadboards and other stuff. You really need round blades for these

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 06, 2019, 06:18:36 pm
content: Quote from: Pjotr on January 29, 2016, 05:59:01 pmIs this really the case? I first used Stripax in the early 80s, and have had one for 30 years myself. Still works perfectly fine.Edit: oh, nvm, dead threads are walking.