Help Identify AC Outlet Connector Type - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / rf-microwave

author: groinksan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2020, 10:33:17 pm
content: I just recently moved into what used to be my dad's room. He was a HAM operator, and used to operate HF and VHF equipment in the room. He had this huge Collins amplifier, and had to run a separate AC outlet for the equipment, probably because the equipment needed 240VAC (I'm in an American home with typical 120VAC outlets.)The AC outlet is still there. I've attached a photo on this post. I'm trying to identify the type of connector. I tried comparing the photo to what I could find on Google, and came up with L6-15.Here's my confusion... My understanding is that L6-15P is the plug, and L6-15R is the connector. However, looking at the photo I took of the outlet, the connector seems to be a mirror opposite of what is supposedly a L6-15R. So I need your expert eye and properly identify this connector.While I have you guys reading this, it would be great if you could also chime in on the following:- How do I test this AC outlet with my multimeter? I have a Klein Tools MM1000.- What would I need to take advantage of this outlet, i.e. convert the power to 120VAC? The 120VAC outlets in this house are not grounded, as the house was built in 1962, and its power infrastructure has never been upgraded.

author: TheMG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2020, 01:58:49 am
content: Quote from: groinksan on February 09, 2020, 10:33:17 pmLooks like an L6-15 to me, not a mirror image.Quote from: groinksan on February 09, 2020, 10:33:17 pmOn twist-lock receptacles the part with the 90 degree bend in it is the ground. The other two holes would be L1 and L2. There is no neutral connection on an L6-15.Quote from: groinksan on February 09, 2020, 10:33:17 pmYou would need to get an electrician to first of all replace the receptacle with a 120V type, and also replace the circuit breaker with a single pole type and move one of the wires over to the neutral bus bar.There is nothing you can do to safely obtain 120V from this receptacle without modifying the wiring at both the breaker panel and the receptacle, as there is no neutral connection in the existing setup. Remember that 120V is the line-to-neutral voltage. 240V is line-to-line.

author: Ground_Loop
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2020, 05:11:14 pm
content: Quote from: groinksan on February 09, 2020, 10:33:17 pmOpen it up and see if the neutral is connected. If so, replace the outlet with a standard 120VAC duplex, break the link between upper and lower outlet on the hot side, connect one hot to the upper outlet and the other hot to the lower with neutral going to both on the other side. It's not particularly safe from a code perspective without the ground, but its not going to spontaneously reach out and kill you either. I've had a 'split-phase' outlet running in my shop for over 20 years with no issues, but it is grounded though. I'm sure the safety nazis are going to pounce now.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2020, 05:55:21 pm
content: Quote from: Ground_Loop on February 17, 2020, 05:11:14 pmWhat neutral? It's highly likely there isn't one. There is, however, a ground..

author: mcovington
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2020, 06:26:03 pm
content: I agree with TheMG. You need to get an electrician to change what it's connected to on the other end and change the outlet. And make sure it's up to spec. I don't take chances with old wiring that no one understands.