hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Where to store open source EE curricula. lab notes, etc - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: watchmaker
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 18, 2025, 01:10:32 pm
content: I have collected a number of EE college level texts, instructor guides, solutions, lab manuals,etc from sources such as Academia.Edu and college sites.The attached PDF on EE Intro to Test instruments (explains burden voltage nicely as well how to use bridges and other basic instruments) is an example.I do not have the links, only the PDFs. Some are quite large, and I wonder if there is value in sharing them and, if so, how best to do it.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2025, 01:31:20 pm
content: If you mean uploading them here, on EEVblog, I think there is no value in doing that. This is a private forum, and the storage space/download bandwidth is an expensive resource, for now payed by Dave (as in, there is no mandatory fee to upload/download here). Though, this is not a file storage service.Since the material is already available online, a link would be enough. Most probably the same content is to be found on the internet archive, too (the wayback machine). Not to say, what may seem extremely interesting for one, might be totally uninteresting to somebody else.For example, I keep a collection of links that interest me in this topic:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/found-a-goldmine-looking-for-more-treasures-(hp-journal-and-alike)/As for your personal use, I encourage anybody to store/duplicate interesting content on their own hard disk. Don't count on cloud services, or on any other online webpage. I even keep a local Wikipedia copy (from some time ago, when it was not yet very polluted).

author: watchmaker
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 18, 2025, 01:48:38 pm
content: Quote from: RoGeorge on August 18, 2025, 01:31:20 pmThanks. Problem is, I do not keep the links. I store the original docs on my resource disc and then put them in my Kindle library for easy reading.The wealth of books and courses available on the internet is simply staggering. And for texts not availble as PDFs, Thrift books is great.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2025, 02:03:13 pm
content: Yes, the problem of our times is not the lack of info, but the lack of readers.We live in an "attention society", as in, everybody compete to get followers.
Which antistatic mat materials don't melt at soldering temps? [SOLVED] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tyblu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2012, 06:00:57 am
content: I'm grabbing some antistatic matting for my workbench and soldering station. The options available to me from DigiKey are rubber, vinyl and laminate. Which of those best hold up to the heat? I'd like to not have to worry about solder balls, dropping a pen or putting down the heat gun.The datasheet (http://documents.desco.com/PDF/10200.pdf) for one of the laminate contenders lists "160°F (71°C) continuous", which seems too low -- I sometimes crank the tip to over 380ºC -- but also says that it "resists hot solder". The vinyl one (http://documents.desco.com/PDF/PM-127.pdf) doesn't mention temperature. The 3M rubber datasheet one doesn't say much of anything (http://goo.gl/Lr7Tm).

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2012, 06:07:45 am
content: In general, rubber resists heat well while vinyl melts.All-Spec has a video on YouTube comparing the different kinds of mat complete with demonstrations:

author: tyblu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2012, 06:42:16 am
content: Neato -- thanks.After readingthis document I realize the matting listed as "laminate" wasn't referring to it being a composite material that had been laminated together, but the installation process: it is laminated to the work surface. I'm not doing that. Rubber it is.
Which camera? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Fikey13
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 14, 2023, 03:19:24 pm
content: I have been trying to research a thermal imaging camera as to be able to do home energy assessments. I see a lot of cheap brands and I am wary. I am familiar with Flir and have tried on NUMEROUS occasions to contact them for advice on which camera would be right for me. Now, two weeks later, I haven't gotten any response from my written requests and phone calls lead me into phone loops where I reach no one. I am very dubious to deal with a company that I can neither reach for buying advice or technical help. Any suggestions?

author: BILLPOD
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2023, 06:56:27 pm
content: Good Morning Fikey, I recently got the VEVOR SC240N Thermal Imaging Camera, and I like it a lot. Lots of reviews if you Google it.

author: jerryk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2023, 12:34:09 am
content: I have a UTI 260B and am happy with it. It got a lot of traction inthis thread.I'm glad I got it when it was cheap. Seems they have gone up in price. I also got a macro lens with it which is a must.Jerry

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2023, 04:59:54 am
content: Go do some study here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/

author: liaifat85
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2023, 07:17:54 am
content: You can check FLUKE, Testo, and Hikvision. Explore their product lines and customer reviews to find a suitable camera for your needs.
Which capacitor for better design - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: bazaarbarghir
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 17, 2018, 02:49:06 pm
content: HelloI need a capacitor to design an electronic componentWhich one of the followingcapacitors is better for you?Electrolytic capacitor with a voltage of 16 V and a capacity of 10 microradoesBP CapacitorThankhttp://bazaarbargh.ir

author: Karlo_Moharic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2018, 03:50:21 pm
content: Do you speak English?

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 17, 2018, 04:06:17 pm
content: With no requirements other than electrolytic 16V 10uF, pick the cheapest one you can find stocked.

author: Audioguru
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2018, 04:31:59 pm
content: I think he is asking if a polarized electrolytic capacitor or a bipolar capacitor (BP) designs the circuit better instead of him designing the circuit.I would like to see a capacitor design an electronic circuit better than I do.Bipolar electrolytic capacitors are available over here but maybe not available over there.

author: Karlo_Moharic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2018, 04:34:56 pm
content: hahahahahahahaha
Which capacitor value is D5-U1 ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: JacquesBBB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2018, 08:37:04 pm
content: Hi All,I must say I am confused to ask for this, but I need to be sure.I have a B32922 X2 MKP/SH capacitor from TDK.It is written "D5-U1 M 305V "Which value is it ?PS : I cannot just measure it, as it is broken.

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2018, 09:59:45 pm
content: https://en.tdk.eu/inf/20/20/db/fc_2009/X2_B32921_928.pdfQuoteSo, with that and looking at the example markings in the pdf:D5 is probably a date code.U1 (it's probably the micro symbol if you look close), with the U serving as a decimal point = 0.1 uFM tolerance = 20% I think305V = rated AC voltageAt least , that's my guess.

author: JacquesBBB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2018, 10:14:54 pm
content: The full marking islogo 2111445634 CD5-U1 M 305V ~So I suppose 2111445634 is the date codeIt is "D5" which confuses meOtherwise, U1 may well be 0.1uF . It would fit with the size and possible values ( 0.033uF to 0.68uF).

author: JacquesBBB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2018, 11:07:25 pm
content: Now I see that the "U"1 is just "mu"1as herehttps://fr.rs-online.com/web/p/condensateurs-polypropylene/1248412/So it is well 0.1 uF.and D5 is probably a date code as you said.

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2018, 11:20:24 pm
content: I found a reference that TDK uses IEC 60062 on caps, so this would seem to fit:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Letter_and_digit_code#Production_date_codeSo D5 would be May, 2013 under that system. (Or 1993 or 1973)
Which chip serial numbers to memorize? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Dongulus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 12:01:16 am
content: I've noticed in some teardown videos that Dave will often identify ICs by the serial number on the packaging. Can any of the more experienced members tell me of some essential chips to memorize the serial number for tearing apart products? Also, are there any ICs that have pin configurations that are handy to know?

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 12:05:44 am
content: Don't you think Dave uses Google off camera?The only chips people memorize are the chips they use in their own work. For the average amateur your memorization probably stops at the NE555, the LM324, and PIC or Atmel micros. (And maybe a few basic logic chips.)

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 12:08:39 am
content: Quote from: Dongulus on March 24, 2013, 12:01:16 amNo, no, a thousand times no. Youalwayscheck the pinout of a chip you are working with. Different manufacturers have been known to move the pins around on what is supposedly the same IC. Nothing will ruin your day worse than assuming a pinout only to find your board doesn't work after you have put it together because your assumption was wrong.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 12:12:31 am
content: Quote from: IanB on March 24, 2013, 12:08:39 amI second this with enthusiasm.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 12:19:30 am
content: anyone in electronics should know the partnumbers by heart. if you don't know what a 7400 7402 7404 7405 7408 7413 7414 7420 7490 etc are : change hobby ...most single opamps in 8 pin package have the same pinout. 2 -, 3 +, 4 neg, 6 out, 7 pos, 5 and 1 adjust.dual opamps are 1 out, 2 ,- 3 +, 4 neg, 5 + , 6- , 7 out , 8 pos. quads like 324 339 : ditto 1,7,8 and 14 are outs..ttl and cmos has vcc hihgest numbered pin and gnd on highest/2 pin. with few exceptions like 7490 7492 ...

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 12:32:30 am
content: ANY possibility of common numbering blew out the door when surface mount came out !! PLUS, parts are so tiny, they only usecodes anyway, which can be a nightmare to find, and can vary between manufacturers. Plus, you may not ever need to know allthe historic types. I'd suggest, IF you'd like that knowledge, occasionally google through random circuit diagrams, pick outinteresting parts and look up their pedigree. Plus it's a more interesting way to do it.
Which circuit choice is better? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: redgear
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2020, 01:59:21 pm
content: I'm building a circuit to control to cut off supply to the load when a microswitch is released. I will be using microcontroller and a relay to control the power to load.In the above schematic I have wired it in such a way that, if the microswitch(SW23) is released, it is guaranteed that the supply to the load is cut-off even if the relay or the microcontroller fails. But the downside is that the microcontroller does not know the state of the switch, so the relays will be ON even if the switch is released in the middle of the operation.The other way will be to connect the switch to microcontroller and let the microcontroller control the relays. But if the relay contacts are melted the circuit stays ON forever. Two relays in series can reduce the probability of this event or I can use a DPST relay so even if one pole is iced, the other still works.I will be switching around 2.5A at max. Do I need a snubber network on the relays? What do you guys think is a better design?Thanks
Which clock source should I pick - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: zero-ohm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 19, 2023, 06:02:42 pm
content: I am creating a circuit for a small project of mine. Heart should be a STM32 which has a MII/RMII MAC and as PHY. I decided to go with a KSZ8091, now I have trouble deciding whether I should take the KSZ8091RNA or the KSZ8091RND. As far as I can tell the difference is only in how the clock is configured. Also what is the difference between using a XTAL or an OSC as a clock source? What should I use as clock source XTAL or OSC? And is there any difference by using 25MHz XTAL or 50 MHz OSC?

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2023, 06:39:08 pm
content: Design the board for a CMOS oscillator. You will then have an option to use either device with 25 or 50 MHz oscillator.

author: zero-ohm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 19, 2023, 09:35:48 pm
content: Why can I not do that with a XTAL? And what is the gains of using OSCs? As an OSC costs about 10x more than a XTAL?

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2023, 09:40:56 pm
content: It can be difficult to get a crystal oscillator made yourself to operate properly at an accurate frequency, although people have been doing it for roughly 100 years now.Packaged crystal oscillators, which can be obtained cheaply on eBay, should work "out of the box", if properly specified per the above reply.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2023, 09:46:14 pm
content: What specific crystals and what oscillators you are looking at for that price difference?Oscillators cost less than 50 cents (one of many exampleshttps://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Oscillators_JWT-YF4025M00033T8188074_C2831460.html). This is more expensive than a crystal, but for the crystal you will also need to consider the cost of the load capacitors. And oscillators are much easier to use.But if you are really cost sensitive, then the crystal will work fine.

author: zero-ohm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 20, 2023, 10:41:03 am
content: It is not that cost sensitive, I just looked at an ECS-2520MV-500-DN-TR and think that this is the part I am going for.Thanks for your help!

author: AndyBeez
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2023, 11:20:44 am
content: Packaged CMOS oscillators have better temperature compensation ratings and lower frequency drift.
Which COB liquid should I use? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jindaohan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 05:53:19 pm
content: Which COB liquid should I use? as coating for the interiorfor microprocessor epoxy or similar

author: BILLPOD
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2025, 01:25:08 pm
content: Good Morning Jindaohan, Welcome to the forum. The only thing that comes to mind is J-B Weld,https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=asc_df_B003S2E4UE?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80676783832563&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=105222&hvtargid=pla-4584276309083035&th=1

author: ahsrabrifat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2025, 03:52:27 pm
content: If you are working with bare die COB, use a black glob-top epoxy resin. If you’re working with packaged microcontrollers/PCBs, use a conformal coating (silicone or acrylic) instead of COB epoxy.
Which component is this one? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tonyfer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 19, 2017, 07:42:07 pm
content: Hi,Does anyone know which component is this?Antonio

author: tonyfer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 19, 2017, 10:49:33 pm
content: Perfect! Thanks!

author: tonyfer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 22, 2017, 02:05:41 am
content: Quote from: blueskull on July 19, 2017, 07:52:25 pmThis seller really has several components, but specifically the transformer of this board is not listed (TC41-1W - see circuit below). I do not have the specs of this component. I will try to replace it with another one. I believe I have to consider the frequency of the signal, the desired impedance at the output, the level of acceptable distortion, insertion loss, phase/amplitude unbalance, etc. What else I have to consider to choose this component?
Which component is this? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Sbampato12
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2017, 08:04:19 pm
content: Hi everyone,I've been asked about this component, and came to the conclusion that I can not recognize.As they say, one image speak more than a thousand words:As far my eyes allow, I think it's marked "1kv" "C24B"In the PCB, it's called AR1, and it's silk is similar to a capacitor.Thank you!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2017, 08:10:02 pm
content: Very likely it is a spark gap, probably a 1kv one, or a VDR of 1kV used to clamp overvoltage.

author: Sbampato12
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2017, 08:45:39 pm
content: The pcb already have a varistor, so less probable a VDR. But a spark gap, maybe.The pcb is this one:http://www.ebay.it/itm/JC44-00109A-DONG-YANG-E-P-0HC282-1110-PRINTER-POWER-SUPPLY-BOARD-DELL-/142296268257?hash=item212184bde1:g:-b4AAOSwax5Yyq9NThis component is located upper-left, under the yellow cap, right to switch.

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2017, 09:31:28 pm
content: PCB seems to have a neon bulb symbol on it ......?Circle with parallel electrodes.Google "neon bulb symbol".Regards, Dana.

author: Sbampato12
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2017, 11:46:43 am
content: Quote from: danadak on March 21, 2017, 09:31:28 pmFantastic, I've never seen this symbol. Thank you.What doens't make sense to me is that it is not a neon bulb... but, it is very interesting to know this symbol.
which controller should I use to spin gimbal brushless motors both ways - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: giotkesho
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 09:16:16 am
content: I want to build gimbal, but i dont know which ESC-like controller should i use to spin my motors both CW and CCW directions. and i also want it to be compact, like 3 in 1 controller or sth.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 09:27:03 am
content: Yeah, I believe the ESC for a gimbal is a bit different to a normal ESC used to spin the motor.Since the ESC applies power with the motor pretty much stationary and with very fine control.Sorry I cant help with an actual ESC recommendation. Have you tried searching for ESC and gimbal together?

author: MarkT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 09:45:00 am
content: Gimbal motors are run under an angle feedback regime, standard ESCs are not normally used with them. The angle error is used to control motor drive phase and level with a control loop tuned to the system involved. However standard ESCs should be able to spin them, but you won't get position control or good low-speed control that way I fear. RC car ESCs tend to have reverse options, RC plane ESCs tend not to...
Which countries which engineering subject is best - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: abdurresitcan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 24, 2019, 09:57:06 am
content: Which countries which engineering topic is best

author: spec
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2019, 10:14:52 am
content: Hi abdurresitcan,USAThere is no one best subject in electronics, and don't forget the specialist areas: reliability, electromagnetic comparability, safety, quality assurance engineer, technical author, technical sales, systems engineer... These areas are always in demand and can be very lucrative, especially if you start your own company and become a consultant in a specialist area.In addition to hardware engineering, there is software, and this is the area with the biggest demand, and arguably the highest remuneration.Don't forget, to progress up the ladder, you will have to move into management, either technical, project, or general, so your interpersonal skills, presentation skills, and writing skills should develop along with your technical skills as you gain more experience.Just to give you an idea of what happens. You have designed and developed the most fantastic piece of equipment and you are in the lab putting the finishing touches to your creation, and the project manager strolls in and says the customer is visiting next week, can you do a 20 minute presentation on your design, so it is best to be prepared.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2019, 04:41:04 pm
content: In the US, software developer makes more money than engineers (electronics, computer, mechanical, etc) and there are at least 10 times as many jobs created each year.We have a site:www.bls.govUnder Search BLS.gov you can search for any occupation you wish and find out the macro side of things but you can also drill down by area of the country like Silicon Valley (San Jose, Mountain View, Sunnyvale, Santa Clara). The drill down will give median salaries and it is likely that a highly motivated individual will make a lot more than just 'median'.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2019, 08:19:34 pm
content: When you look at salaries, rationalize them against cost of living in the area. Sure, Silicon Valley pays well but it takes 2 high paying jobs to buy a house. I'm not sure $150k will provide much of a lifestyle in that area. $300k probably will.And that's why a lot of folks commute from outlying areas even though the commute is grim. I am so happy I don't work there any more. Or anywhere, for that matter. Retirement is good.
Which crimping tool? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kvid
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 02, 2018, 06:57:57 pm
content: https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/b0.5/non-insulated-terminals/nichifu/b-05/Which crimping tool do I need for these butt splice terminals?https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/ht-336n/crimping-tools-for-terminals/ht-236n/Are these pliers ok?

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2018, 08:32:56 pm
content: Don't think so. You need a crimping tool for non-insulated terminals of 1mm2/0,75mm2but the one you mentioned starts at 1,5mm2Something simple like this would suffice, if you will use it often I would advice a better one from knipex with four or six jaws but those are around €100https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/ck-3645/crimping-tools-for-terminals/carl-kammerling/430005/https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/sa.crb05/crimping-tools-for-terminals/bahco/cr-b-05/

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2018, 08:49:38 pm
content: The terminal itself seems to have conflicting info. AsKjeltmentioned, the cross section values would say NO, while the AWG values below it would say YES (states 22 - 18AWG).You definitely need to verify what's genuinely correct before buying terminals or tooling.That aside, the performance of the inexpensive Chinese made crimpers may not be that great out of the box. So you'll have to do some test crimps and check them out before making any crimps you need to rely on (pull force test). This is because QC tends to be all over the place, and the tool might require adjustment (little toothed plate w/ locking screw).IF you're planing on doing a lot of non-insulated terminals (butt, ring, fork, spade, ...), you might want to consider investing in a better made tool.Another alternative that offers a decent cost/performance balance for multiple terminal types and sizes would be a crimp tool that uses interchangeable dies from a decent manufacturer, such asPressmaster's MCT, or equivalent from Rennsteig/Knipex or Wezag for example. The MCT is the least expensive option I'm aware of that's decent tooling, and even then, I've run into an issue or two with terminals fitting the dies correctly (this is what makes it all so expensive).Couple of references that should prove useful for you:Molex's Quality Crimping Handbook(has a chart with the pull force per wire size)NASA's Workmanship Standards, Pictorial ReferenceI mention all of this as I've seen really bad results from cheap crimpers, especially in the hands of those that don't know to check and adjust their tools (assuming it can even be adjusted into spec).
Which Motor Should I use for this project? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: thechromepoet
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 22, 2022, 08:30:53 pm
content: Hi, I am trying to build a washing machine that can turn clothes in a large 55-gallon bucket with an RPM speed of 60rpm, I do not know what torque or voltage range I should be looking for, if you can provide a ballpark figure that would be helpful. This will be a high-volume project, and I live in the USA. I was thinking of using gears to increase its power as well. Thank you!

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2022, 02:29:09 am
content: 60 RPM is way slow for a washing machine.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2022, 08:28:13 am
content: High volume project? Hire a proper engineer.Gears? Bad idea, use a belt. Rotational speed and torque can be adjusted by the pulley sizes.Voltage? Prepare for 3phase industrial motor.After all, it is a matter of torque. Build a non-motorized prototype and try to turn it as intended - a torquemeter would be ideal, like the one for wheel nuts. Probably add 100% for non-ideal barrel load.

author: bidrohini
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2022, 01:51:35 pm
content: Here are some washing machine motors you can choose from:https://www.amazon.in/Washing-Machine-Motor/s?k=Washing+Machine+Motor
Which Drone Should I Choose? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: XxMandragoraxX
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2025, 07:11:31 am
content: I’m currently on the hunt for a mini FPV drone, and I’ve been considering two great options: the new Meteor75 Pro with the O4 system and the Air75. However, I’m a bit undecided, as I want to use the drone for indoor freestyle flying. Both drones have their own strengths, but I’m having trouble choosing the right one for my needs.The Meteor75 Pro caught my attention because it comes with the O4 system, which promises improved image transmission quality and range. The O4 system is known for its low latency and solid connection, which is definitely an advantage if you're flying in more challenging environments or need crisp video feed during tricks. However, I’m wondering if this system is too advanced for indoor flying, where range isn’t as much of a concern. Will the Meteor75 Pro be too powerful or overkill for the tight spaces I’ll be flying in?On the other hand, the Air75 is a bit smaller and lighter, which seems like it could be a better choice for indoor flying. Its compact design could be perfect for navigating tight spaces and performing freestyle maneuvers within the house. The smaller size also means it could potentially be easier to handle in a confined area, reducing the risk of crashing into furniture or walls. And I think that it will come with O4 unit too, so I dont know what to do.What do you recommend?

author: ahsrabrifat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2025, 06:56:50 pm
content: If indoor use is your primary focus, then go for Air75. It is compact and lightweight. Meteor75 Pro is heavier. If the room is not spacious, the size can create problem.
Which DSO to buy? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: exp1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2013, 04:30:09 am
content: I'm on a rather tight budget and the variety is pretty small in my country (Argentina), i have found a couple DSOs within my budget but i'm unsure which would be the best long term, so i'd like to ask the forum for some guidance. I mostly work with moderate speed digital circuits (microcontroller systems from the 80's) so a built in logic analyzer would definitely be a plus for me.The options i'm currently considering is the "classic" Rigol DS1052, which doesn't have a logic analyzer, the cheapest price i can get for that one is ~US$600. But for just $100 more i'd be able to buy a Hantek MSO5062D which does have a 16 bit logic analyzer and overall nicer specs. but i'm wary of the brand because it seems to be rather obscure. Does anyone actually own that hantek scope or one of the same line? is the builtin logic analyzer worth for anything? I'm really unsure about the build quality and the quality of the software.Thanks.

author: micro_freak
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2013, 12:47:35 am
content: I own a Hantek DSO5102B, it does not have the logic analyser input.It is a recent acquisition, I only used it for a few sessions, and I am pleased with it. I was scared of poor software or user interface, but it is fine. The manual is horrible, if you never used a similar equipment you could be missing information on how to get it to work properly. But the integrated help seem quite alright, I used it to figure out FFT Math function.Hope it helps you figure out things.

author: exp1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2013, 12:51:50 am
content: Oh i forgot about this, i already bought a DSO5062

author: space_bastard
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 16, 2013, 12:59:13 am
content: I'd be interested to know how the hantek works out. Maybe do a review post?
Which Fluke should I buy? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mortos360
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2012, 11:20:59 am
content: I am not really into electronics, but since my job requires it due to some changes in the company, I will need to learn it.We will do very simple microcontroller programming, like trigger on event or generate square waves of a few Hz.. nothing complex, BUT it should be accurate. We are getting the Rigol DG4000 series and already have a DSO, now to MultimeterI know Dave did TONS of review from different Multimeters and if I learned something from all the videos is, get a FlukeMy budget is about 500 euro and I want something that is gonna last for some time.Can anybody suggest me something?Thanks!

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 11, 2012, 11:26:44 am
content: The Agilent U1272A is good value.Otherwise the venerable Fluke 87V for general use, or 280 series for data logging and high precision.But there are others choices...And of course, any good lab needs more than one meter, like for example, measuring power.So rather than blow your budget on one top end meter, I'd get two mid range meters.Dave.

author: mortos360
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2012, 11:50:33 am
content: Heh.. thanks for quick answer DaveI think I will go with Fluke 87v then and maybe get a second meter at some point later when we really need it.

author: mortos360
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2012, 02:05:25 pm
content: After watching your video review of the Agilent, I changed my mindgoing for the U1272A.Thanks again!!
which free / low cost EDA / Spice software - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: innkeeper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 22, 2019, 11:07:57 pm
content: I am hoping folks can point me in a good direction.I'm looking to model up a BJT audio amplifier and see what instabilities exist under varying reactive loads and see how circuit changes effect stability.looking for something free or low cost to do this on that has a reasonable number of models available. I don;t mind a little learning curve.this simulation will be purely analog

author: Wimberleytech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2019, 11:44:54 pm
content: LTSpice

author: MagicSmoker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2019, 10:44:50 am
content: Yeah, no contest here: LTSpice is by far the best choice.https://www.analog.com/en/design-center/design-tools-and-calculators/ltspice-simulator.html

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2019, 12:32:53 pm
content: Tina-Ti is TI's alternative offering. A little less powerful than LTSpice, but some folks find it easier to drive.
Delete Delete Delete - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: The_Almighty_Bacon_Lord
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2016, 01:29:40 am
content: Delete Delete Delete

author: mmagin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2016, 01:31:38 am
content: No, you blew the 10 amp fuse. And you have to replace it with a fast blow one rated 250V and which is capable of interrupting 750A, if you want to maintain the safety of the meter.

author: mmagin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2016, 02:03:04 am
content: Well, the rating on the voltage range is a separate matter from the current measurement range.I think the proper fuse is probably going to be ceramic, the cheapest I could find with those specs on digikey is:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/littelfuse-inc/0314010.MXP/F4828-ND/778339Do note what dimension the original is, there are a few sizes of cartridge fuses you might encounter.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2016, 06:46:36 am
content: Quote from: The_Almighty_Bacon_Lord on March 25, 2016, 01:29:40 amMost modern multimeters do NOT need a working fuse in order to turn on. The fuses are usually only required to measure current. You can still measure voltage and resistance without any fuses inside your meter.QuoteYour local Canadian tire carries the 500mA fuse for $1.99 (pack of 3).http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-ceramic-fuses-for-multimate-5x20-0520731p.htmlYour local Canadian might carry the 10A as well, but the description below is not specific.http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-ceramic-fuses-for-multimate-6-3x32-0520734p.html

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2016, 07:22:24 pm
content: You will need ceramic fast high rupture capacity fuses for YOUR safety. Not glass grenade fuses.Remember YOUR safety.Lazy link to the fun part.

author: XOIIO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2016, 10:49:53 pm
content: I'd be surprised if canadian tire has the fuses, the meters go on sale so often I just bought a second one when I couldn't find any fuses for the damn thing anywhere. Decent enough meter though.And fuses are rated in milliamps, not milliamp hours (ma vs mah)

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2016, 03:34:40 am
content: Quote from: XOIIO on March 26, 2016, 10:49:53 pmI have seen the fuses there before in person. Whether your local store has stock is another question.Canadian Tire also sells very crappy replacement multimeter probes/leads in the $2.99 to $4.99 range. At any price, they are terrible quality.

author: XOIIO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2016, 07:29:40 am
content: Quote from: retiredcaps on March 27, 2016, 03:34:40 amWow, sounds like ours is just especially shitty. Unfortunately around here they were pretty much the only game in town except for fluke, which I A) didn't know about at the time and b) sure as shit couldn't afford when I was 12 lol
Which Hakko  tip is best for smd work please?  Hakko FX-888D - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2020, 08:11:48 pm
content: I have the Hakko FX-888D soldering station, can someone recommend a chisel style tip suitable for 0603 work please?(I have a hot air station too)Many thanks

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2020, 09:06:32 pm
content: I use an 1/8" chisel for everything. I usually try to stay with 0805 but I wouldn't have any problem with smaller packages. Maybe a 1/16" chisel would be nice but I get along without changing tips.Research "drag soldering" for packages with many pins.For 0805, I sometimes use solder paste on the pad, place the part and hit the intersection with the soldering tip.Flux is the answer to soldering SMDs. I sometimes just run a bead of flux around the pins, put a blob of solder on the tip and touch the joint.Get some SolderWick of various sizes. I will sometimes get solder bridges on fine pitch packages. I put some flux in the neighborhood and slurp up the excess solder with SolderWick.

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2020, 09:16:09 pm
content: Many thanks, I'm in the process of setting up my first lab (another thread on here somewhere) and thanks to other posters advice, have equipped myself with MG Chemicals solder wick in 5 sizes, 423 - 427, Going from 0.03" to 0.125" (0.8mm - 3.1mm).

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2020, 11:04:15 pm
content: I also use a 1/8" chisel tip for everything, my go-to parts are 0603. You want some decent pointy angled tweezers and ideally small diameter solder. The most common mistake I see people making is using way too much solder.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2020, 12:47:01 am
content: Tweezers like these:https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10602
Which IC can be the culprit - question for experts? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jane
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2021, 06:39:26 pm
content: Here is a schematic of LCD backlight boosterPP_VCC_MAIN is input voltage about 4V.PP_LCM_BL_ANODE is output voltage that should be ( if working correctlly) about 20V. Unfortunatelly I have only 16V,Does anyone have any idea which item can be a culprit of lower voltage? The backlight driver was already changed but still the same 16V.Thnank you for idea

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2021, 06:51:53 pm
content: See here for a testing list (usually this is doue to corrosion killing the caps or the diode):https://www.microsoldering.com/iphone-6-brightness-problem-dim-backlight-solution/or try with a known good screen, the "compatible" replacement sometimes are using too much current.
which IC for audio switching - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: brownt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2019, 02:58:40 am
content: Hi,I would like to make a guitar signal level, audio switching circuit. I was thinking a 4066 or 4053, but I don't know how these might degrade the signal. Are they ok, or are there some specifically designed ICs that are better. thanks

author: xavier60
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2019, 03:34:07 am
content: Wow, I have just told someone else the same thing.CMOS analog switches have non-linear resistance with signal swing. To minimize distortion, they have to be lightly loaded. Also keep the signal swing well within the bounds of the supply rail voltages.This looks useful,http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/cd4053/cd4053.htm

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2019, 03:37:48 am
content: 4066 has been seen in some rather high-end audio gear.When applied properly (powering, biasing, loading, etc.)I thought this was interesting:http://www.thetonegod.com/tech/switches/switches.html

author: John B
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2019, 03:39:21 am
content: Is it a battery based application? A small signal mechanical relay may provide the most performance for an audio application. Ie, low resistance, no non-linearities, isolated signal and control circuits. In mains powered stuff it's the way to go.
Which is stupid: this design or me? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Technoguy3
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2012, 04:36:53 pm
content: So I have this light-sensitive nightlight that barely puts out any light, so I decided to open it up and see what's inside. I find... this. Is it just me or is this poor design? The resistor is a 47K Ohm if my math is right (unlikely). It looks like that this thing runs up my electricity bill even when it isn't on. Am I wrong? That's like 3A of current going through it even when the light isn't on, right?EDIT: 120V/47K = 2.6mA. Silly me. Still, though, shouldn't there be some sort of mechanism to shut off the current when not in use?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 20, 2012, 04:43:00 pm
content: that is piss poor design to be sure. Just abouts teaches what a NOT gate is.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2012, 04:46:01 pm
content: Wow, you really broke that light well. No chance of putting that back together again...2.6 mA from the mains is no big deal. It's 1/4 W so things will get warm, but not especially hot. It looks like there is a CdS cell to bypass the neon and turn it off during daylight? I'm really not sure why that is needed.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 20, 2012, 04:51:55 pm
content: Quote from: IanB on July 20, 2012, 04:46:01 pmSort of makes it look way more sophisticated than it is.....

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2012, 06:16:24 pm
content: This is the deluxe model, with daylight switching. Production cost is around 5c more than the standard model, but the profit margin is three times as much, as you can sell the deluxe for 60c, as opposed to 20c for the regular model.It is good this is so hard to open, you do not want a night light potentially where a young child can contact it with a flimsy case that falls off after a few months due to a cheap glue being used.Just remember that this uses less than the 2mA quoted, as the neon lamp drops around 90V when lit, and the ldr will likely have a on resistance of around 20K when it is bright enough to not light the neon lamp.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 20, 2012, 07:18:27 pm
content: Very good point.

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2012, 01:51:00 am
content: It is horrible,& not fit for purpose,but it actually is a very elegant design.If for some reason you wanted to turn on a neon globe when it becomes dark,it does the job well.The fact that it is too dull to be a proper nightlight,is a different matter altogether,as is the poor construction,& the possibility that the CdS cell may breakdown in service.The Boss probably was very happy with this product,as they could use all those neons & CdS cells which had been lying around for 20 years.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2012, 06:34:17 am
content: Not likely, more like the company also makes photoswitches, so has a contract that gives a good price for the CDS cells.
which is the best book for Power Electronics?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: khatus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2020, 06:27:26 pm
content: which is the best book for Power Electronics??

author: mag_therm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2020, 09:05:56 pm
content: I might be a little old and wierd after a career in power electronics, with the latter part mostly doing computational modelling of them.I would say that a math book on 2nd order differential equations would be high on the list.Most power electronic devices are just like analog computers solving 2nd order DE sequentally in time.

author: JohnG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2020, 01:59:11 pm
content: My goto book on power electronics is "Fundamentals of Power Electronics" by Erickson and Maksimovic. It's not perfect by any means, and there are mistakes here and there, but it's the most comprehensive and it really does begin from the fundamentals. It's focus is on switch mode power electronics, so it doesn't cover older technologies like line frequency rectifiers and such. It also does not do a great job of covering semiconductors and thermal design. It's a college senior to grad level textbook, so it assumes a certain level of fluency in electrical engineering.If you are looking for something more basic or more general, I will have to leave it to others to recommend a book or two. I have too many..Cheers,John

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2020, 08:00:44 pm
content: Many semiconductor manufacturers provide good information, albeit biased, about how stuff works and why one topology might be better than another.As mentioned above, it's a complex subject embracing many fields.Perhaps you can narrow it by explaining your motives and goals.

author: AllisonSharp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 23, 2020, 08:31:05 pm
content: Hi there,I like to read Power Electronics by Daniel W. Hart. For me, it is the best book for beginners.Also, a good choice is Ned Mohan's "Power electronics: converters, applications, and design".But at the first informativepostby Daniel W. Hart.Hope it will be useful!
Which is the best book for SMPS design? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: KEIN NEIN
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2019, 04:51:38 pm
content: I am looking for books for PC SMPS design that include modern stuff such as digitally-controlled PSUs, etc.I am currently using:Marty Brown: "Power Supply Cookbook." Newnes, 2001. (ISBN 0-7506-7329-X).https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/SMPSRM-D.PDF

author: MagicSmoker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2019, 05:03:04 pm
content: Quote from: KEIN NEIN on July 25, 2019, 04:51:38 pmThe Marty Brown book is decent enough, but quite old and light on details. I can somewhat half-heartedly recommend Sanjaya Maniktala's "Switching Power Supply Design & Optimization," with my main reservation being that he does an unusually bad job of describing magnetics design (almost no one does this topic well, but he really makes a dog's breakfast of it). Christophe Basso's book "Switch-Mode Power Supplies," arguably does the best job of describing feedback loop compensation and covers much of what is needed to implement those loops digitally. Otherwise, the classic texts by Keith Billings and the late Abraham Pressman are always good to have on the shelf, with the former going into more detail on various "ancillary" functions and subsections in a typical commercial SMPS and the latter covering a wider range of topologies.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2019, 05:03:17 pm
content: You may like to send a PM to treez. He has built many SMPSs in the past.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2019, 05:46:09 pm
content: ^The OP hasn't been here long enough to get it.

author: MagicSmoker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2019, 05:47:08 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on July 25, 2019, 05:46:09 pmShh! You'll spoil the surprise!

author: foobie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 18, 2020, 10:34:39 am
content: ogata - control systems, covers all LTI frequency response analysis.pretty comprehensive, might be helpful.ahlfors - complex analysis. this is the dragon book on the subject.