choosing/understanding the right powersuply for the TS100  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 05:13:39 pm
content: Hi guysExcuse the the lack of knowledge but i'm a noob when it comes to this subject.So i want to get the TS100 soldering iron to start of.After having watched several reviews i decided it's the right compact iron for me at the moment.Only problem is that i don't want to get a crappy Chinese power supply but a three prong one that will last me.All the power supplies i currently own don't have the correct jack.What did i do:As i live in Europe (The Netherlands) i looked around on amazon Germany asked people about good brands power supplyAnd eventually landed on a two brands and one store that had filters to narrow my search.I downloaded the TS100 manual that mentioned the specs i needed to know..Operation Voltage: between 12v - 24vgiving you power: between 17W - 65WElectric current: >1.4A - >2.7AHeat up time from 30c to 300c 40s - 11s (the more power you put in the faster it will be)They reccommend a 19V 2.1A power supply turning it in a 40w iron..But as "Marco Reps" noted in his youtube review the internals can handle way more..I just want to give it the max it can handle according to the manual. so 24v >2.7A turning it in to a 65w iron.So after reading the manual and searching i found two power supplies that looked good on paper and the price was ok i guess.So my question is this;with computer power supplies it is recommended you buy a couple % higher rated power than you would need for does peak times.And because a computer power supply runs efficient if the load is not 90% all the time.. But say 75% or something like that at least above 50%..At least that's what i was always told.So the Bicker (BET-0624) provides exactly what the iron needs 24v @ 2.7 amps (i think that's how you say it haha)..But reading the spec sheet of the MeanWell the GST90A/24 is rated for 3.75A and has a current range of 0 ~ 3.75A with a rated power max of 90WSo more than enough to handle my iron..The question is would i be wasting €13 buying the higher specked one. And possibly even damage my iron ??I think i'm reading the spec sheet correctly and it's able to provide more power but it just means it has a higher ceiling.Both power supplies are 90% efficient so no problems there.i basically lack the understanding to decide between the two. I was hoping for sum advice , and knowledgeThanks for your help guys.. i Appreciate it..The specs and url's are below.Bicker Elektronik BET-0624 24 V/DC 2.7 A 60 W€32Store url:https://www.conrad.nl/p/tafelnetvoeding-vaste-spanning-bicker-elektronik-bet-0624-24-vdc-27-a-60-w-1527317Manufacturer url:https://www.bicker.de/index.php/eng/Products/Power-supplies/Desktop-adapters/BET-0600Mean Well GST90A24-P1M 24 V/DC 3.75 A 90 W€45store url:https://www.conrad.nl/p/tafelnetvoeding-vaste-spanning-mean-well-gst90a24-p1m-24-vdc-375-a-90-w-1439241Manufacturer url:http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=GST90A

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 06:10:02 pm
content: Yes, choice of a suitable power supply is a serious business. As you say, there are lots of crappy power supplies out there. A 24V supply does achieve maximum performance from the TS100, unfortunately most supplies are focused around the 19V laptop PSU hotspot.You have clearly done your homework, it looks as if you have selected two reputable power supplies. As you have identified, the Bicker one will be running at full load (or a little above) during startup but under normal duty the load will be very much lower. The thing you need to avoid is the supply going into overcurrent trip, which could cause a reset loop. From the datasheet, the only indication of this behavior is "Overload protection: max. 180 % of nominal current, switch off with auto recovery". If this holds true, then you shouldn't have a problem. This is the part that differentiates the good PSUs from the crappy ones.Meanwell is a respectable Chinese brand and would operating be well within its rating at all times, no concerns there (Edit: no additional risk of damage to the iron).The only other differentiators I can see are that both PSUs include an interference suppression ferrite core on the output leads, however the one on the Bicker is 80mm from the PSU, whereas the Meanwell one is 70mm from the DC jack. That would clearly be undesirable if you are plugging directly into the TS100! In practice, you will probably want to add a short length of burnproof flexible Silicone cord for comfortable handling.Personally Ithinkyou would get away with the Bicker one (provided that it meets its datasheet spec) - but the only way to tell for sure would be to test it. If necessary I suppose a very low value resistor could be included in the positive line to limit the peak current slightly. Any additional cable length will also help.Just one other possibility. You may want to check on ebay for a used brand-name power supply eg, Dell, Sony, Lenovo etc. at a good price. I tried ebay.nl but was unable to understand the search categories.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 06:21:32 pm
content: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HP-18-5v-6-5A-Laptop-Power-Supply-Unit-PSU-Power-adapter/162867917813?hash=item25ebaf33f5:g:sTwAAOSwMkJaV4AAJust search ebay for second hand, working, 19V laptop supplies which arebranded. A lot of cheap laptops come with cheap Chinese PSUs these days. A Toshiba or HP PSU will last a long time and put out a shed ton of current.I run mine on a 19V 6.5A supply and it goes from room temp to 350*C in around 10 seconds. You can literally lift it off the stand where it has gone to standby and by the time you align it with the joint you are soldering it's ready.I was advised that the full 24V might stress the main mosfet too much and to aim for the 19V laptop supply.As an aside, I plugged a 12.6V RC hobby LiPo into it and it still heated up in about 25 seconds.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 06:28:30 pm
content: Might worth a read:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/soldering-iron-recomendations/It includes a few tips on other things to purchase while buying.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 06:37:04 pm
content: You can get a little closer on standard laptop PSUs too. For instance Dell and Lenovo have 20V models. Genuine Lenovo T400 series are 20V at either 65W or 90W and are widely available on ebay at low cost (make sure it's a 3 pin variant). Every little helps.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 11:47:33 am
content: Quote from: paulca on March 26, 2018, 06:28:30 pmthanks for the tip.. i just did have a look, and recognized the pics and sum content ;-) looks like i read that thread.. i read so much that i had to make sure but will surly go over it again.

author: mdijkens
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 11:59:16 am
content: Hey TuxKeyI have several old genuine 80W HP laptop power supplies laying around here (Amsterdam)If you want you can pick one up

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 12:02:54 pm
content: Quote from: paulca on March 26, 2018, 06:21:32 pmThanks for explaining that 24v might stress the mian mosfet..i do have a new 19.5v Dell power supply but the jack is not the correct size..And i don't feel save messing around with it..Here's a pic;https://imgur.com/a/NTmX5

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 12:05:11 pm
content: almost forgot i just found a store that sells the Mean well for €24.. and they sell lot's of other goodies..here's the link..https://www.tme.eu/en/details/gst90a24-p1m/desktop-power-supplies/mean-well/i was looking at a cheap desoldering solution and was told the aoyue 8800 would not be a good idea because it was hard to get parts for it.https://www.tme.eu/en/details/sp-1010dr/desoldering-stations/solder-peak/

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 12:07:45 pm
content: Quote from: mdijkens on March 27, 2018, 11:59:16 amwouw that's mighty friendly of you sounds good.i don't have a car (sold mine to meany problems with the damm thing)..so perhaps you could post it to me using DHL of post NL which ever one is cheaper..i would pay for shipping of cource..

author: mdijkens
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 12:10:27 pm
content: ok, just send me a email or forum-messageI can also put a 5.1x2.5 mm plug on it so you can use it right awayPS I wouldn't use the Dell because the cable is very thick and sturdy which is not convenient for a soldering iron I guess

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 12:12:36 pm
content: Quote from: mdijkens on March 27, 2018, 12:10:27 pmcool will do.

author: xavkno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 02:07:48 pm
content: The best thing to do would probably get a power brick and make an verlengsnoer (yea i am dutch and I forgot the english translation  extension cable) with silicone wire that way it will be easier to maneuver the iron and it will make sure you don't burn the wire.And thank you for making this tread i was just about to order a ts100 from aliexpress now i know which power brick would be best to get.

author: mdijkens
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 02:22:37 pm
content: I have just quickly created this for youI think it is a good start. The TS100 is probably not the best iron for high power soldering jobs anyway. But if you need more power you can always buy a bigger supply laterDo you have the power cord needed? (it saves shipping)

author: xavkno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 02:47:48 pm
content: Quote from: mdijkens on March 27, 2018, 02:22:37 pmCould you post a pic of the front of the dc plug?That way i can look if i have the right plug laying aroundAs i have one of those universal laptop power suppliesIt unfortunately doesn't have an earth pin though.

author: mdijkens
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 02:49:38 pm
content: You need a DC 5.5x2.5mm connector for the TS100

author: xavkno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 03:29:06 pm
content: Quote from: mdijkens on March 27, 2018, 02:49:38 pmThank you, have one laying around  going to order the ts100 tomorrow then will save me a few cents Still don't quite get why they used 5525 instead of 5521 though.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 04:50:02 pm
content: Quote from: xavkno on March 27, 2018, 02:07:48 pmI would order one from Bangood.. not Aliexpress at least that is what i was told about packaging and shipping..i will get the cheapest one i think it's €42 with a little stand made out of ceramic ...think i will also grab a grounding wire clamp for €3,30https://www.banggood.com/MINI-Earth-Clamp-for-MINI-UpGrade-TS100-Digital-Soldering-Iron-Station-p-1221739.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

author: mdijkens
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 04:52:20 pm
content: Quote from: mdijkens on March 27, 2018, 02:22:37 pm@TuxKey:Please let me know if you need the powercord also?

author: xavkno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 05:19:12 pm
content: Quote from: TuxKey on March 27, 2018, 04:50:02 pmIt would probably be better to get this stand and a brass sponge instead as the frequent thermal shock of using an water sponge could reduce the tip's lifespan.And now when i finally found my calipers and measured the plug i have is 5530 i have an 5521 but no 5525will have to order a plug then.

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 05:30:46 pm
content: DC plugs with screw terminals are very handyhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/5-5-x-2-5mm-Male-DC-Power-Plug-LED-CCTV-Video-Balun-Terminals-Connector-Adapter/290691050016Also, the new TS-C1 tip is a must for smaller SMD stuff.What about a USB-C connector on the next revision?

author: Eka
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 10:29:29 pm
content: Quote from: TuxKey on March 27, 2018, 04:50:02 pmI used 3 18 AWG high flexibility silicone hookup wires to make a three conductor cable so I can ground the tip using the same cable I power it with. On the power supply end I have a jack for the power supply to plug into, and a ground lead with banana jack to hook to my common ground point. There is also a switch so I can turn it off. On the soldering iron end I put a ring terminal on the ground wire, and a 5525 barrel plug to the power to the soldering iron. I had all the parts on hand except the 5525 plug. For the jack on the power supply end I used one that matched my power supply, not a 5525.To make a cable that stays together and behaves nicely, I carefully wrapped the three wires without twisting the individual wires. That way it lays flat and doesn't try to curl up. This is an old rope maker's trick which also works nicely for wires. I then used 1/8" long heat shrink tubing segments every couple inches along the cable to better hold the wires together. If I'd covered it with heat shrink for the whole distance it would have been stiffened way to much by the heat shrink tubing. Yes, you can buy high temperature highly flexible heat shrink tubing, but it also costs a lot.To get the wires, you can sacrifice some long high temp silicone test leads. I had a few spools of different colors left over from a project I did a couple decades ago.I'm still looking for a proper three conductor highly flexible high temperature cable without having to sink hundreds of dollars into a whole spool.

author: xavkno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 10:40:58 pm
content: So how much does it matter my power brick doesn't have qn earth pin?

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2018, 11:29:05 am
content: Quote from: mdijkens on March 27, 2018, 02:22:37 pmThanks really appreciate it. i looked around and did not find a power cord the only one i have laying around are the computer type.Kind of fits me being a computer guy...The ones that kind of looked like the one you showed but are the two that go in the dell laptop power supply but they are also shaped in a way that you can't use them with anything other then that powerbrick so that's a no go..You right about the weight and shipping let's hope it stays under €7 i think DHL is cheaper then postNL...Strange ordering from TME electronics in Poland standard shipping to NL is €8 so they are over charging us here in NL as always..btw to anyone else in my investigation of good electronics stores in the EU i did a youtube search "TME poland" checkout their channel /youtube promo..These guys are legit .. damm... and seems they are even main distributor for Mean well power supplies hahahah.. starting to dig arround for good solder flux rosin and that kind of stuff .. basically everything i need to get started in a couple of months.. i promised my wife i would hold out until i'm done with my bloody RedHat certification real pain in the ...you know grrr. need to get that RHCE and redo my RHCA first expensive exam fees.. damm..But after that i'm going to start modding my old keyboard hahahah ...still lots of things to do learn read and explore..First thing's first register on the TME site.. to see total shipping hahahahttps://youtu.be/9K6nLPC9G-0

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2018, 12:57:21 pm
content: for me I got this one for my bench supply project:https://www.banggood.com/4A-To-6A-24V-Switching-Power-Supply-Board-AC-DC-Power-Module-p-969204.htmlYou can get a simple 3$ enclosure with some wires and you will be ok! it claims 4-6 amps which is significantly better than your needs so it cannot go wrong.There is also this one:https://www.banggood.com/AC-110-240V-Input-To-DC-24V-17A-360W-Switching-Power-Supply-Driver-Board-p-1272112.htmlbut it is 17 amps which is a total overkill.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2018, 02:03:20 pm
content: Quote from: xavkno on March 27, 2018, 10:40:58 pmIt matters a lot for a soldering iron. Power bricks have 'Y rated capacitors' for interference suppression. I bricks with 2 pin mains connectors, leakage currents from these capacitors are returned to the output jack, causing it to float at partial mains voltage (but at very limited current). This is an issue for a soldering iron -these leakage currents will be coupled to the semiconductors you are soldering.

author: xavkno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2018, 02:58:15 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on March 28, 2018, 02:03:20 pmThen i will need to search for a better brick ;(

author: sixtimesseven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2018, 03:02:33 pm
content: I use an old 24V 6.5A Laptop charger. Works great.Cable Wise I would highly recommend this cable type, soft as silk and high temperature resistant (does not melt even with the iron all the way up).https://www.designacable.com/2-core-high-temperature-silicone-rubber-cable-2x0-25mm-4amp-dc-wiring-black-orange-green.html

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2018, 06:22:49 pm
content: I bought the Mean Well 24 volt power supply. The TS100 is rated for 24 volts, and I’m not concerned about stressing a relatively inexpensive tool to gets its top rated output of 65 Watts. Works great. Beware, if you buy from Amazon U.S., there is NO power cable included.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2018, 06:59:41 pm
content: Quote from: sixtimesseven on March 28, 2018, 03:02:33 pmNote that they also do a 6A 2 x 0.4mm^2 version which is also very flexible and a good diameter match for the high current 5.5x2.5mm jacks. I have 1m lengths of both but prefer the 6A one for the way it flexes more smoothly and balances the iron better (and slightly lower voltage drop). The thinner one is probably better for portable battery use though.https://www.designacable.com/twin-conductor-silicone-rubber-cable-2x0-4mm-6amp-suitable-for-dc-applications.html

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2018, 09:09:03 pm
content: Quote from: TuxKey on March 27, 2018, 12:05:11 pmI bought the Mean Well from Amazon U.S., for about the same price, but it does NOT come with the power cable for some reason, noted in the Amazon customer reviews, but I have those.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 07:30:08 pm
content: Quote from: TheAmmoniacal on March 27, 2018, 05:30:46 pmThanks for the DC plug with screw in terminals never thought something like that would even exist..Btw perhaps a good idea to see if tme.eu sells hardware to help like a spare connector and perhaps a nice silicone wire to mod future power supplies.. The thing is i'm buying my solder and tin from TME.eu because i live in the EU and these guys have good stock and the pricing is even better then amazon or conrad..and shipping is reasonable..

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 07:43:37 pm
content: Some of the TS100 bundled kits come with the short silicone XT60 to 2.5mm cable to run off a battery pack. I bought it separately here:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073BJ3W78/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1So I tried using that cable above, with the adapter below to connect it to my 24 volt power supply. While the silicone cable above is short, it worked out fine for me.BTW: be careful with those barrel connectors with the two screw terminals, the wires get bent and forth and in short time fray the cable right off, and if you try and tin the bare cable, it’s worse. We use those connections for use with LED lighting strips and fixtures designed for film and video production, so I use them a lot.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYVBLN8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 07:56:04 pm
content: @GyroYou mentioned that : In practice, you will probably want to add a short length of burnproof flexible Silicone cord for comfortable handling.Sounds good where do i get such a cord? and do i replace the main cord that is attached to the powersuply or ad it on top?btw i found a different store for a second powersuply if the one @mdijkens is providing doesn't work out for sum reason.https://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/desktop-power-supplies_113629/#id_category=113629&s_field=artykul&s_order=ASC&visible_params=2%2C32%2C36%2C98%2C317%2C364%2C364%2C622%2C637%2C637%2C2503%2C2706&used_params=364%3A29982%3B637%3A2454%3Bi'm going to buy all my soldering supplies from them

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 08:15:58 pm
content: Quote from: TuxKey on April 06, 2018, 07:56:04 pmIf you don’t want to make your own cable, read my post above yours.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 09:06:22 pm
content: Quote from: VEGETA on March 28, 2018, 12:57:21 pmi was looking at something like this "Switching Power Supply" when "Louis Rossmann" mentioned it in his TS100 review Followup.https://youtu.be/71R8OksmpWw?t=1m45slooks good but then i would need to make my own power cables.. what's the benefit of something like that Mean well "Switching Power Supply" as aposed to a brick TME calls "Desktop Power supplies" ??https://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/desktop-power-supplies_113629/#id_category=113629&s_field=artykul&s_order=ASC&visible_params=2%2C32%2C36%2C98%2C317%2C364%2C364%2C622%2C637%2C637%2C2503%2C2706&used_params=364%3A29982%3B637%3A2454%3Bwould really like to understand this

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 09:07:49 pm
content: Hi guys could you help me understand with this ??i’m trying to understand how one would choose a correct power supply for this iron..or any other thing really...paulca mentioned that his is running his iron on a 19v 6.5A supply. so more amps than stated in the manual is ok..So i decided to google it first and see if i understand what’s going on??my google search query; amps vs voltage power suppliesfirst result: here mentioned that higher Voltage would be bad.and lower not always good .. i do understand that that’s not the case with the TS100 it can operate using lower current..It does answer the Current rating or amps (i did see a youtube clip explaining this)(need to watch more examples hahah)So more amps is ok the device wil just use what it needs..so far so good i understand the first parthttps://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/34745/choosing-power-supply-how-to-get-the-voltage-and-current-ratings?utm_medium=organic&utm_source=google_rich_qa&utm_campaign=google_rich_qai must admit that the last part advanced concepts are a bit harder to understand i need to read it a couple of times..btw Maco Reps mentions something about an “input Voltage pre regulator” RT7272B.https://youtu.be/HgrB5P-rDLw?t=8m47si still don’t know how this fits with what Paulca mentioned:quote : I was advised that the full 24V might stress the main mosfet too much and to aim for the 19V laptop supply. end quote.After reading the Advanced Concepts from the link mentioned earlier i think i’m starting to understand what Marco Reps mentionsabout the RT7272B being able to handel an input range between 4.5v to 36v.. that could be for safety and the Ripple mentioned on EESE site??i have to admit i’m not completely there yet..my current instinct would be to say don’t go over the 24v limit and more watt is ok more amp is ok.. but stay at least above 65w

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 09:14:34 pm
content: on the TME site the Mean well Enclosed-lrs switching power suppliesare filtered under “built in power supplies..https://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/built-in-power-supplies_113656/Have no clue how to filter this all..on Output Voltage 24v DC?Gives me 194 options ahaha...

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 09:15:09 pm
content: Quote from: TuxKey on April 06, 2018, 09:07:49 pmHave you read this entire thread, only 2 pages? Reason I ask, is most of you new questions have been answered.This power supply is all you need:https://www.tme.eu/en/details/gst90a24-p1m/desktop-power-supplies/mean-well/

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 09:26:42 pm
content: I just found the power supply Louis Rossmann mentions in his review followup..From the seller i'm going to buy my solder supplies from..And it's €12 sounds like a bargain..https://www.tme.eu/en/details/lrs-100-24/built-in-power-supplies/mean-well/plus it says mounting "for building in" does that mean i need a case of sum sort ??And don't leave it on my desk?? i thought that would aid in the coolingOnly question is why did Louis go for an LRS type. it does seem like the type that fits this iron the best..don't really know that the difference with this model.. besides that the Power is overkill ...154.2Whttps://www.tme.eu/en/details/ads-15524/built-in-power-supplies/mean-well/

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 09:31:32 pm
content: I’m OUT, I tried. Good luck.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 09:59:53 pm
content: It's fairly simple. Buy a 19V laptop supply. The higher the amp rating the better. It will work better than any iron you have used before.

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 11:19:22 pm
content: Quote from: TuxKey on April 06, 2018, 09:26:42 pmYou seem rater confused.. The TS100 soldering iron takes 12-24V, the input voltage will correspond to the output power you can achieve with the iron. To get the full 65W you need 24V DC. It does not matter where those come from. Typical laptop chargers are 19V and ~2.1 A or above, giving ~40W of power on the iron, more than sufficient for most stuff.The Mean Well PSU you link has screw terminals for AC mains in and for the 24V DC out (Adjustable from about 21.6 to 26.4V), it's meant to be installed in a cabinet of some sort. But you can just have it on your desk, it's fine. This means you need to make the cable yourself and ideally solder on spade connectors.Another option is to just get a compatible laptop charger from TME that is compatiblehttps://www.tme.eu/en/details/zsidt24_3.75a-2555/desktop-power-supplies/espe/

author: Eka
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2018, 02:07:41 am
content: Quote from: TuxKey on April 06, 2018, 07:56:04 pmYou can do whatever you want. It's your soldering iron and workbench/place, not ours.I made an extension cable which I plug a 24VDC brick power supply's plug into. There is also a power switch, and ground lead to plug into my bench's common ground point so I can ground the TS100's tip and turn power off to it. I detailed what I did in my previous post in this thread. My three wire home twisted cable works nicely, but no where near as good as the very thin cable my old Weller IsoTip soldering station had. I also miss the 10.6g pencil thin soldering wand it had. The tip unit for a TS100 weighs 10.1g.In the future I plan on making 24 VDC and 48 VDC fixed voltage bench power supplies for testing my light sculpture artwork. I plan on adding a couple switched jacks specifically for powering a couple TS100s from the 24VDC one. I'll likely use standard off the shelf 3x5 inch format, medical grade, long life capacitor using, SMPS power supplies bought from a reputable wholesaler like Mouser or DigiKey. I've been burned by to many poorly performing power supplies from low cost suppliers.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2018, 09:46:52 am
content: Quote from: TuxKey on April 06, 2018, 07:56:04 pmI bought my cable from this UK listing...https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-Core-Silicone-Rubber-Cable-2x0-4mm-Conductors-6amp-DC-Wiring-Cord/152000411964?hash=item2363ee393c:g:eBcAAOSwll1W1cRU... and plug from here (5.5mm x 2.5mm Fork)https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-Power-Plug-Socket-Male-Female-Barrel-Connector-Multiple-Sizes-Available/292033926253?hash=item43fe94146d:m:mUesRQQNWhwM4BtX-0CbALg

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2018, 09:55:07 am
content: I got the same cable.I cut the laptop supply cable at about 1m and twisted, then soldered the two wires together, heat shrinked each individually, then heat shrinked over the join.In review of this approach however, the outer heatshrink has pulled back a bit, exposing the inner insulated flexes, which might mean the twisted, then soldered inner conductors have stretched. So I will need to dissemble the join and inspect/redo.When I do this, if I take the same approach I would make the join longer, so more inner heat shrink length and much more outer heatshrink length to provide support and protection.Until I can be bothered, though I think the join is still safe, I'm hoping the laptop supply has output short circuit protection!An alternative approach would be to use actual connectors, even 2.5mm barrel male/female or XT60s. The XT60 approach would then allow the silicon cable to be used with a LiPo. Note the battery has the female (male plug, female conductors). This means the power supplying end has no exposed pins within the outer shroud.When I powered mine up from a decent 12.6V high power LiPo it took nearly twice as long to heat up, this would be the effect of the voltage as the LiPo would be more than capable of 100A.

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 06:39:46 am
content: Is this iron really worth all that money? for 50$ you could get a nice station. I got Yihua 908D for just 18$ on offer, now it is 25$. Get another tips for 2$ and that would be it.

author: BBBbbb
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 08:53:54 am
content: Quote from: VEGETA on April 08, 2018, 06:39:46 amFor some strange reason the TS100 is a really fun toy to play with. I like it a lot...And it seems better than the wast majority of portable ones on offer.This lengthy thread maybe makes it look like the PSU is an issue, but just use a grounded PS from a laptop. Many of us have some spare ones laying around.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 09:57:55 am
content: Quote from: TheAmmoniacal on April 06, 2018, 11:19:22 pmthanks @TheAmmoniacal i do seem to be lost in the woods on this one. i have downloaded the TS100 manual and read the part you mentioned on page 5 section 3 "Power Adaptor Selection". i guess in my journey to try to understand more i got a bit lost..The power supply you linked seems to be a good one.. It seems all desktop power supplies have this ferrite core around 7 to 10 cm from the plug..someone did mention i should ideally connect an short flexible cable to my iron something heat resistant..that would kind of defeat the purpose of buying a power supply with a correct plug..perhaps my first project would be to learn how to mod power cables.. but i feel i need to do much more studying multi meter current and much more..there i go again in to the woods..

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 11:06:52 am
content: KISS. Keep it simple stupid.Buy a grounded (3 pin) laptop supply. Standard 19V one. The higher the current the better. Too much isn't going to hurt anything. 4A-6A is great.When it arrives and your TS100 arrives, there is a chance it will just plug in and work. Iteration 1, you have a working soldering iron. There is a remote chance the laptop supply has a DC connector that won't fit. So just buy another one and retro fit it. It's just two wires. It's not hard, just buy one of those ones with screw terminals if you don't want to splice/solder it.Then you can refine things with the silicon flexible burn proof lead at your leisure.Note, the ferrite ring is only to help combat the switch more power supply noise from upsetting the laptop, particularly the audio, which frankly the TS100 will not give a damn about.

author: analogo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 12:24:02 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on March 26, 2018, 06:10:02 pmWhy are ferrite cores on output leads "undesiderable" when the power supply is plugged directly into the TS100?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 12:44:31 pm
content: Quote from: analogo on April 08, 2018, 12:24:02 pmBecause you don't want one dangling off the back of your soldering iron! If you read above, one has it near the PSU, the other near the plug.

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 12:56:05 pm
content: Why don't get Yihua 908D? simple and powerful! I tried it and I can recommend.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 01:54:42 pm
content: Quote from: VEGETA on April 08, 2018, 12:56:05 pmBecause one is a cheap clone of another iron and nobody really knows it's quality. Chinese Product + Mains = No thanks. Have you checked it for Earthing and mains leakage? It's almost certainly an old technology separate element and tip which means the temperature will not be stable or even present when it's important.The TS100 is tiny, lightweight, new technology, DC powered, micro-controller controlled, open source software and hardware, heats up almost instantly and stable in temperature, plus with the right size of power supply it's very powerful.Did I miss anything?EDIT: oh, yes, it's pretty, portable, battery option powered...

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 04:15:18 pm
content: Quote from: MacMeter on April 06, 2018, 09:15:09 pmi have read all the comment's and the reason is i'm trying to understand and not just do..i downloaded the TS100 manual and the power supply your pointing to is exactly the max specs of the iron...(page 5 of the manual)24v 2.7amps and they recomment 19v 2.1amps..the reason i'm asking reading is that i want to learn and understand why i'm going for a or option b instead..from what i understand until until now.1) use a 24v supply (no more than that)2) more amps is ok but don't go overboard and after seeing this vid probably stay near the 2.7A.https://youtu.be/g-xXSJagz_Areason a faulty tip could result in a short of the mosfet (did'nt even know what a mosfet was before today)3 getting more power could be a good idea but again no need to go overboard. Running the power supply at lower load could be beneficial to longevity say 90wats more than enough keeping the price low..So that's where i'm at now..

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 04:16:43 pm
content: Quote from: paulca on April 06, 2018, 09:59:53 pmok will do. i understand.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 04:19:54 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on April 07, 2018, 09:46:52 amextremely helpful thanks...already saved the links..Will see if i can find the same products from the tme.eu shop since i'm going to order more gear from them..

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 06:10:18 pm
content: Quote from: TuxKey on April 08, 2018, 04:15:18 pmI appreciate you are most likely on a limited budget, at least here in the US, on Amazon, you can get the TS100 KIT, it comes with the 19 volt PSU and one tip for $65 US. I wanted the full 65 Watts the unit can deliver, so I wanted a 24 volt PSU, and would have preferred buying just the iron for less, but they only sold the kit package on Amazon. You can buy just the iron alone, and these are available on all the usual Chinese sites. First, I don’t like waiting for 6 week deliveries from those sites, and if the product has any issues, Amazon’s return policy is very easy and good, so I pay a bit more for those two factors.I watched the video you linked, I remember watching his glowing first review, same guy. Did you read the text he posted on his YouTube review?He states: “However, if you use a power supply with which can deliver more than 5A, you risk that the maximal current (5A) of the MOSFET is exceeded and you burn it - when the tip fails.”You see he says “WHEN THE TIP FAILS”. These inexpensive TS100’s have been on the market for over 1.5 years now and I have never seen any online posts complaining about failed tips, I own 6 tips, they all work fine, but granted anything can break, seems he got a bad tip, and used it twice on two different TS100’s, with the same bad results. As someone who over research’s products, (not as much as you, I’ll tell you, at some point you have to jump in the pool to get wet! I’m just glad I’m not your new car salesman.The 24 volt MeanWell PSU that I and others here have recommended is NOT 5 amps. If it concerns you, simply buy the KIT with the 19 volt PSU, or buy one with the same specs.Seems he is using whatever power supply he had on hand, but the main issue he had was a FAILED TIP or TIPS. He had this problem twice, so I assume he used the same “shorted” tip on his 2nd unit, and broke that one as well. It makes sense to use a DMM and check the tips before first use.If you don’t want to bother making your own silicone cable, I posted the solution for that in one of my earlier responses to you in this thread.Sounds like you may be a better candidate for a more standard soldering station where you don’t have to worry or wonder about these details. You could buy cheap Chinese clones of know brands, or better yet save up for an original Hakko 951, or the new Pace 200, for about $240 US. Those dedicated soldering stations should last for many, many years. I suspect at the price point of the TS100, it will fail far sooner, and the money spent on it will be lost. Thankfully not an issue for me at this time, and I wanted to try it out since it uses the new direct drive temp sensing tips, which both the Hakko and Pace units use. Just remember, compared to the two I mentioned, many people here and online consider the TS100 as a TOY. I understand where they are coming from, and if I were a solder pro, semi-pro, or needed long term reliability, with good customer support, I’d buy either of the other two. Since I don’t solder much, my needs are far less demanding, and I hope I get a decent amount of life out of a TS100. If not, I didn’t lose much investment in it.Good luck on whatever you decide.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 08:09:25 pm
content: Quote from: MacMeter on April 08, 2018, 06:10:18 pmto be 100% honest with you i did check amazon for the TS100 with power supply but found it to expensive for what it was.mainly a normal TS100 with a cheap power supply. Even if i would have to pay $10 or $20 more i would rather buy the TS100 from banggood and buying a good power supply from a reputable place like tme.euQuote from: MacMeter on April 08, 2018, 06:10:18 pmi did notice he pointed out that if you have a power supply that can provide more then 5A and the the tip fails which results in damaging the mosfet that can't handle all that current.. That was the reason he went with a higher rated mosfet..my conclusion was don't grab a power supply that can provide more amps than the mosfet can handle unless you want to buy a second one and do the repair he did *lol* could be a learning experience hahah...Quote from: MacMeter on April 08, 2018, 06:10:18 pmsum times i jump in blindly but like i told you earlier.. i'm doing this to learn as much as wanting to mod my mechanical keyboards.The 24 volt MeanWell PSU that I and others here have recommended is NOT 5 amps. If it concerns you, simply buy the KIT with the 19 volt PSU, or buy one with the same specs.Quote from: MacMeter on April 08, 2018, 06:10:18 pmi appreciated your response very insightful and i'm not just saying that (not that type of person)...Quote from: MacMeter on April 08, 2018, 06:10:18 pmTwo years ago i wanted to get in to audio tech and jumped in without looking..i just said don't want to spend the time to research just give me the best closed headphones out there with the best soundstage..So i bought a $1100 T5p from Beyerdynamic...And bought a cheaper headphone amp..Turns out it's a wonderful headphone but my years as a marine sniper turned out not so good for my hearing and i can enjoy them but not as much as i thought.. so now they sit in their box and my cheap Chinese headphones are used on the go and i just throw them around.. Like you said as a toy..Why am i telling you this?? well to explain why i'm not buying a Hakko FM-204. That was my first plan..But now i bought (already ordered) the TS100 and a Aoyue 474 (old model without the ++)..My wife made me promise to start easy if i would like the hobby and stick with it.. not just build a couple of keyboards and mod a couple of them. then when we move from this smaller apartment i would have room for a work bench and buy something like the FX-951...Btw i'm getting a power supply from an awesome guy that also live in The Netherlands he offered to make me one from a power supply he had laying around i belive he said 19v... and perhaps i'l buy a spare 24v from tme.eu desktop supply that you mentioned here 24v one with 4.5a or a tad more and something a tad above 65w 90 or something with plug already on it.. later one i'l buy a silicone cable and learn how to mod it test it buy a cheap multi-meter and continue to learn..Thanks again for your input really appreciate it. i will use this post as a reference to come back to if i forget something..and i hope others will do the same when having questions related to the TS100 ..

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 08:23:37 pm
content: I just had a back and forth with that YouTube reviewer, and was exactly as I thought. He had a bad tip, didn’t test read it first, and was using a 10 amp PSU, which would still be fine if his tip was not shorted. The kits with the 19v PSU are perhaps their choice to save money and keep the kit costs down, but for me personally, I wanted to get their units rated and advertised 65 watt output, which is only possible with the 24 volt PSU.So I recommend that TS100 users test read their tips when new, before heating them up. And if you get a TIP WARNING, to immediately disconnect the power. I logged my tips when new:TS-B2 = 7.1 ohms.TS-BC2 = 7.1 ohms.TS-C1 = 8.6 ohms.TS-K = 8.6 ohms.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2018, 10:50:37 am
content: Quote from: MacMeter on April 08, 2018, 08:23:37 pmAwesome list alas the extra tip i ordered (chisel tip) TS-D24 for true hole soldering is not on there..But it don't have a multi meter anyways so it will have to wait for in the future..Also my first thought was how does one measure the ohms on such a tip?so i went looking on youtube..and found Marco Reps doing a mod of his TS100..here it is starts at 03:34 where he starts measuring his tip..https://youtu.be/M-EaxWU70xM?t=3m34sbtw i'm going to buy a cheap multimeter to start of with thinking of getting one from the supermarket store Lidl(don't laugh to hard i know cheap it's not a fluke.)i thought the Powerfix 2018 model would be better then the "Aneng AN8009"here are both vids:The lidle €15 +€3 shipping so total €18.EU testing and the review looks good he does a few tests also with mains !! scary i was hoping all the time that nothing would go wrong.https://youtu.be/ufx3rhCTmpYAnd the more expensive Aneg AN8009 €24 free shipping but will take a long time to get here ..https://youtu.be/TP4kzXdJIF4I think the Lidle one is good enough and a has 3yr warranty hahah

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2018, 11:44:12 am
content: That Lidl one actually isn't bad for basic use. There is a fairly long recent thread on it...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/heads-up-cheap-multimeter-lidl-uk-(080218)/Probably best to ask any questions about it there (if you have any).

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 07:31:37 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on March 28, 2018, 06:59:41 pmHi Gyro and everyone else..So i bought a decent power supply "GST90A24-P1M" €24,20 half the cost of the TS100 but i did not want to skimp on something i plug in to the mains..i'm very interested about the power cable you mentioned.."Twin Core Silicone Rubber Cable. (2x0.4mm Conductor). 6amp. Suitable for DC Applications"But i have no idea how to proceed?can i keep the brand new power supply in tact or do i need to cut in to it ??Is it possible to diy sum sort of flexible heat resistant extension cable for it ?i would probably get the chicken and the egg problem needing to solder on to a power cable without having a second power source..i tried searching for "soldering power jack" and "Soldering a DC connector to a cable" but did not find anyone explaining it ...i think diy the silicone cable you mentioned to something like this.. might be the best solution..? Sort of a flexible soldering extension light and heat proof sounds good to me..

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 07:34:44 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on April 09, 2018, 11:44:12 amThanks Gyro...i'm going to get the lidl model soon..thanks for the link to the post very useful.. there are a couple of nice youtube vids on using a multimeter so that's great..

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 07:43:40 pm
content: Quote from: TuxKey on April 17, 2018, 07:31:37 pmIf you don’t want to cut the plug off the power supply or solder anything, you could try the solution I posted already:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/choosingunderstanding-the-right-powersuply-for-the-ts100/msg1472255/#msg1472255

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 08:02:16 pm
content: Quote from: MacMeter on April 17, 2018, 07:43:40 pmSorry missed that one..i think i looked over it because i did not understand it..thinking that's for a battery pack has nothing to do with me..hmm sorry again..opening both url's side by side.. it seems that the Amass will fit the 5.5/2.5 jack that comes out of the power supply.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYVBLN8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&p;sc=1and the Uy Chan connects with the yellow part to that cable and with the jack to my iron am i correct in this ??https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073BJ3W78/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&p;sc=1And i would need to mod that cable right ?? splice or what does one call frankenstein a nice silicone cable in there..The Uy Chan could be heat resistant good quality but i'm not sure..

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 08:21:34 pm
content: Quote from: TuxKey on April 17, 2018, 08:02:16 pmSince you bought the exact same power supply I originally recommended and I own, you won’t have to do anything else other then order the battery cable (nice to have if you ever need portability), and the adapter cable. The Uy Chan cable is silicone and soft, only downside is it is a bit SHORT in length, not a problem for me. If you want a longer silicone lead, you will most likely have to make one as Gyro has posted. Good luck.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2018, 05:26:17 am
content: Quote from: MacMeter on April 17, 2018, 08:21:34 pmThanks for you advice...like you mentioned there was no power cable i opted not to buy one since it looks like a standard computer power cable and i have 3spare cables so one should be good.. if not i can always buy one locally..btw i bought it from TME.eu and they also sell it without power cord.will add the UY Chan in my next order from banggoodAnd i found the adapter cable on banggood..might as well grab it from there.. no hurry..(style 2)https://www.banggood.com/DC-Female-Plug-To-XT60-Female-Plug-Charging-Adapter-Cable-For-ISDT-Charger-p-1154862.html?rmmds=search&ID=510914&cur_warehouse=CNmy power supply and other soldering goodies should arrive today from tme.eu.. very impressed with the fast shipping.as i bought sum no clean flux TE410/500 and Isopropylalcohol which meant no shipping by plane.. looks like poland to The Netherlands is fast..even by truck or train..just received a strange mail about the difference in flux but i asked around and no one could tell me anything so i made a new topic hoping it would also benefit others starting off.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2018, 03:00:05 pm
content: Quote from: MacMeter on April 08, 2018, 08:23:37 pmSo i have my Lidle multimeter and just got my TS100 with two tips..the TS-B2 and the TS-D24.i would love to measure the tips.. i assume i put the meter on 200 ohms?but can't seem to get a clear reading..Can you or someone else tel me what i'm doing wrong.?

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2018, 08:52:39 pm
content: It took me a better half of the day...but i think i got..how to measure the tips..Please tell me it's ok?https://imgur.com/a/W7rxiNX

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2018, 09:02:51 am
content: Yes, you've got it.You might have had some reading stability problems due to contamination of the plating on the new meter probes, there seem to have been a few posts about this on new low cost probes recently. If touching the meter probe tips together (we're done with the TS100 element now) doesn't give you a reasonably consistent zero-ish reading then try cleaning them up by polishing them against some card, maybe some metal polish too. Don't use sandpaper or you'll have to keep sharpening them forever more. Note that when you hold the meter probes together you will always see the meter lead resistance (rather than zero) of maybe 0.1 - 0.4 ohms but with clean probes, the reading should at least be reasonably stable.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2018, 11:01:02 am
content: thanks,,the first times..i put one of the probes on the actual tip and near the end of the iron..as shown here in the pics ..only when i was frustrated and not knowing what to do.. i played around with the continuity setting of the meter and found that the last two rings were somehow connected..and decided to measure from there...these probes where recommended to me and i ordered them (should be in by end of next week.)https://www.ebay.com/itm/171162377470Also got these.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brymen-Slip-on-Crocodile-Alligator-Clips-for-2mm-Probe-Tip-Gold-Spring-Contacts-/171302315753and these are on my list.https://www.ebay.com/itm/10cm-Silicone-Test-Leads-with-Sprung-Hooks-and-Female-Banana-Connectors-1-Pair-/201358533333https://www.ebay.com/itm/One-Pair-of-14-AWG-14-Gauge-Silicone-Wires-Silicon-Cables-1m-Red-1m-Black-/170989738206https://www.ebay.com/itm/16AWG-50cm-Silicone-Test-Leads-w-43mm-Copper-Crocodile-Clips-1-Pair-Red-Black-/171253604936i was thinking of buying a resistor don't know if i need something as fancy as this..https://www.banggood.com/10W-300-Ohm-5-Aluminum-Wire-Wound-Power-Resistor-Metal-Shell-Supply-Inverter-p-1088809.html?rmmds=mywishlist&cur_warehouse=CNto make a battery tester to use with my multi-meter..did sum reading yesterday and learned that testing batteries should be done under load to get a clear picture of the state..Thanks for your help appreciate it as always.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2018, 03:02:54 pm
content: Hi guys...so got all my gear in ready to start my diy projects but i’m finding the power supply cable to be a hassle the ferrite core drags down the TS100..MacMeter recommended this solution..https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073BJ3W78/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&p;sc=1That cable i can find on Banggood..Only problem is i can’t find this one on banggood..https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYVBLN8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&p;sc=1So i thought To go with gyro’s recommendation And grab this cable.https://www.designacable.com/twin-conductor-silicone-rubber-cable-2x0-4mm-6amp-suitable-for-dc-applications.htmli cut a piece of wire 45cm taped it to the power supply jack to get a feel of what 45cm extension would feel like and it seems adequate so i can always shorten it later one.. if so needed.The reason why i think the second sollution is the better one for me now.. is that i can’t find the correct female 2.5 jack to xt60..Only problem is that designcable doesn’t seem to sell female 5.5mm/2.5mm DCbtw wanted to ask would this cable be a good choice to solder on Aligator clips ??https://www.designacable.com/2-core-high-temperature-silicone-rubber-cable-2x0-25mm-4amp-dc-wiring-black-orange-green.htmlam i missing something anyone from the UK know designacable.com and if they sell the male and female 5.5mm/2.5mm DC jacksthat i can solder on the nice twin core silicone rubber cable??

author: xavkno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2018, 06:01:38 pm
content: anyone have any experience with this power supply?:https://www.banggood.com/AC-100V-240V-DC-24V-4A-96W-Power-Supply-Charger-Converter-Adapter-p-970663.html?p=2@3021069489201207MV&cur_warehouse=CNit's a 3 prong one but it's also very cheap

author: analogo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2018, 06:57:04 pm
content: Why is (for the TS100) a grounded PSU a better option than a floating PSU?BTW, three prongs does not always mean grounded, some are three-pronged PSUs are floating.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2018, 07:14:28 pm
content: Quote from: xavkno on May 10, 2018, 06:01:38 pmCan't say that i do.. But having watched hours and hours of Youtube vids from people like "bigclivedotcom" and "Voltlog" and not to mention "DiodeGoneWild" i can tell you this.. stay away from cheap Chinese power supply.i got this one from tme.eu and payed €24,20 plus €8 shipping ..And user "Rooster Cogburn" just told me to check continuity and see if the power supply was mains earth referenced.. conclusion it is not..!!https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/gs90a24-p1m/desktop-power-supplies/mean-well/i can't imagine what you would be getting with the one that costs €6.Besides "analogo" is 100% right as i'm starting to find out ..painfully so it will cost me €8 to ship everything back to TME.eu..i'm going to have a closer look at something like this..https://www.tme.eu/en/details/lrs-100-24/built-in-power-supplies/mean-well/i'm kind of pissed having spend all that €€ and not having what i want.. starting to regret all the hassle..Ahh well i am learning a lot..at least that's a good thing..Appreciate all the help guys and your patience can't be easy dealing with such a noob..

author: analogo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2018, 09:30:53 pm
content: Quote from: TuxKey on May 10, 2018, 07:14:28 pmThe GS90 series is quite good (was, it is now discontinued) but it explicitly says in the datasheet "-V not connected to AC FG".The new GS90 series comes in two versions: GST90 (floating) and GSM90 (-V connected to earth). Ask for a replacement maybe.I still don't understandwhynon-floating PSU should be better...

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2018, 09:54:55 pm
content: Quote from: analogo on May 10, 2018, 09:30:53 pmSeriously i asked tme.eu for help that i wanted a earthed power supply.. and they did not mention what you are saying..Of course it makes 100% sense. And reading the "-V not connected to AC FG" i feel stupid but i did not know about that and what to look for you are the first person that's explaining this to me..!!So it's clear this is the one i would need..https://www.tme.eu/en/details/gsm90a24-p1m/desktop-power-supplies/mean-well/wanting to compare and understand i did found a second power supply : GS90A24-P1MThe one you pointed to states "Medical Applications" While this one does not mention anything.https://www.tme.eu/en/details/gs90a24-p1m/desktop-power-supplies/mean-well/and the data sheet doesn't mention anything about -V connect to earth or not.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2018, 10:02:26 pm
content: since i'm going to use a flexible silicone cable and a dc-power jack cable like "Rooster Cogburn" thid in this post.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ts100-doesn_t-function-properly-when-earthed/25/and not wanting to cut in to a brand new power supply , i would make an extension cable.Would this power supply not be a better option ?? i'm not sure about all does screw terminals if that's a good idea..Would love to hear what you guys think i should get..And if i get this one .. how would i terminate the cables that go in to the power supply ??Or should i just stick with the desktop modelshttps://www.tme.eu/en/details/lrs-100-24/built-in-power-supplies/mean-well/

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2018, 10:12:40 pm
content: according to this reviewer tear down my idea of the supply i was looking at as a second option was / is not that good..https://youtu.be/H8-LTXsHyZAwill ask him if he knows of a better one ,,, he is kind of critical not a bad thing.. and i'm a noob so 90% of what he's saying sounds like magic to me ahhahaha

author: Gregg
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2018, 11:36:49 pm
content: I wouldn’t shy away from a Meanwell open power supply because of this video. For the price point and application, it is quite reasonable. It is hands down a better power supply for a TS100 than some of the enclosed brick power supplies in this thread. The video is criticizing its use for LED lighting in a house where it will be tucked away sight unseen for years, an application quite different than on a bench where if magic smoke starts to be released, you probably will be very aware before it actually catches fire. The power supply is built to a price and things like deburring the inner edges of sheet metal stampings just aren’t manufacturing considerations. To make a power supply that the video producer would find no fault would cost two to four times as much. You know going in the terminal arrangement and could easily glue a strip of plastic over them or desolder them and add whatever suits your purpose.

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2018, 07:17:17 am
content: Quote from: Gregg on May 10, 2018, 11:36:49 pmTwo questions.1) which terminal should i get2) will this solution result in a "mains earth referenced" cable plug ?The connection is explained here so i'm clear on that.https://youtu.be/ETbgiXe8o58

author: TuxKey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2018, 06:54:42 pm
content: Can someone with technical know how please help me with my question regarding the "MEAN WELL LRS-100-24".i downloaded the spec sheet from the seller.https://www.tme.eu/en/details/lrs-100-24/built-in-power-supplies/mean-well/And looking for something like "V connected to AC FG"..One thing i did find was a Block Diagram..Being an absolute noob i enjoy hearing "bigclivedotcom" on youtube go true a diagram but i'm light years from really understanding what i'm seeing..i do however recognize the ground sign from all the youtube vids i watched.. and i do see that the -v seems to be connected to a ground wire. so does that mean this power supply is not a floating one ? is it "mains earth referenced" .i want to make the same cable user Rooster Cogburn made here. and user it with this supplyhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ts100-doesn_t-function-properly-when-earthed/msg1493014/#msg1493014or should i just forget the whole thing and get this one..and make an extension cable. buy adding a female to the male connection.https://www.tme.eu/en/details/gsm90a24-p1m/desktop-power-supplies/mean-well/i really need sum help because i asked to return the power supply and i want to order a new one .. and all the parts needed to use it connect to it..

author: epigramx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2018, 11:37:33 pm
content: This topic brings to mind the same question I get when I read another TS100 topic, more specific about grounding. It was generally suggested - and here too - to get a grounded power supply.Fine so far; and that other thread also suggested to ground the device (from its provided connection) to the negative of such supply.That raises the question though: If it's that so, why wouldn't it be safe to simply ground a non-grounded PSU's negative directly?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2018, 10:02:24 am
content: Sure that's no problem at all, from the electrical perspective. Any power supply (mains brick or otherwise) must be capable of having its output grounded - at some point, that's going to happen though somebody's flesh when they touch the output connector. With cheap on-name mains blocks it would actually be a valuable safety precaution!The general reluctance to do it is purely a matter of physical implementation - it means a separate ground wire from the mains plug to the negative of the output lead. The output lead is actually less of a problem as they are normally constructed as a coaxial lead with the outer braid being negative (do check, but if the outer barrel is negative then so is the braid). With some cable ties and / or heatshrink it wouldn't be hard to make a neat job.Note that the ground lead at the mains plug needs to be securely connected and strain relieved so that it can't pull out and catch the live terminals though.

author: Eka
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2018, 03:58:40 am
content: Quote from: epigramx on December 09, 2018, 11:37:33 pmI won't get into the safety issues as they can be complex. If the power supply is isolated it generally is OK to ground either of it's V+ or V- output, but obviously not both. If you ground the V- and then use it to ground the TS100 tip, there is a small AC signal at the TS100 tip due to the pulsed current flowing through the V- wire. The solution to this is to run a separate ground wire to the tip ground point on the TS100. That means three wires in the cable to the soldering iron.I ran a separate ground wire from the ground point on the TS100 to my common ground. This means the TS100's tip is at the same potential as my grounded ESD mat. I then grounded the V- wire at the power supply end to stop the 42VAC micro Amp capacitive coupled component of my cheap power supply from interfering with stability of the temperature output. There is still a small AC component at the TS100 end of the V- wire due to the pulsed current flow in the wire, but it is less than 0.2V. I maybe should connect the V- to the TS100 tip ground point, and disconnect V- from the common ground point at the power supply end.

author: epigramx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2019, 03:47:28 pm
content: Quote from: MacMeter on April 08, 2018, 08:23:37 pmI received a B2 that is 7.4 and a BC2 that is 6.6. I guess the multimeters might differ though I wonder why the ones I have differ between them.

author: MacMeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2019, 06:25:26 pm
content: Quote from: epigramx on January 15, 2019, 03:47:28 pmI may be wrong, but your numbers look close enough, and as you say, there may be a small difference in the DMM being used. Since your numbers are so close, and there is no dead short, you should be fine. Those were just my measurements, not sure there is a known published reading for these tips anyway.

author: poliorcetes
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 28, 2019, 02:02:18 pm
content: HiI have an AC/DC adapter 12V/6A. I tested it and it works.Does it present any risk at the long run?TIA

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2019, 06:25:36 pm
content: Not a long term problem as such, but 12V supply will limit the maximum heat output to 17W (versus the 65W maximum at 24V, figures from the user manual).If the reduced output power and longer warm-up aren't a problem for you then it won't damage the iron.

author: shinji2009
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 03:21:04 pm
content: Quote from: MacMeter on April 08, 2018, 08:23:37 pmhi."read their tips" what to you mean by that? how to do it?can anybody please tell what resistance must be from rings (contacts) of a tip to its body? i got two tips for ts-100 today and one shows megaohms and other gust 100 ohms so i wonder if one of them faulty and maybe i shouldn't use it.

author: hyperknot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2019, 12:57:36 pm
content: Hi, I've read through this topic and I have a few question.1. The tip. Meanwell has this page. What exactly is the difference here between the tuning for style and the barrel style? Which one do we need for the TS100? P1M/P2M both good? L versions as well?2. I am a bit confused about all these grounding issues. As long as I want to solder DIY amplifier kits (cables, speaker plugs, etc.) do I need to worry about grounding at all? I was thinking about using either a Lenovo 20V 90W PSU or a Meanwell 24V one, do I need to worry about if their V- pin is connected to ground? If I buy a new Meanwell I can choose between the GST90 and GSM90A and GSM90B, which one is better? Am I OK with my Lenovo 90W one (for very infrequent soldering jobs)?3. What is the opinion on some cheap chinese PSU-s like this. Generally not recommended?https://www.banggood.com/Excellway-9-24V-3A-72W-ACDC-Adapter-Switching-Power-Supply-Regulated-Power-Adapter-Display-EU-p-1250656.htmlorhttps://www.banggood.com/AC-100V-240V-DC-24V-4A-96W-Power-Supply-Charger-Converter-Adapter-p-970663.html

author: shinji2009
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 21, 2019, 01:08:40 pm
content: hyperknot1 tuning fork style better because it holds center pin better, delivers more currentsI or L version - think for yourself, what will be more comfortable for you. personally i haven't seen irons with wire at 90 degees) i think there is a reason for this)2https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/mini-ts100-soldering-iron-and-current-leakage/3 cheap chinese PSUs is cheap chinese PSUs. they can be not complant with some regulations, but they are cheap and they are work. think for yourself)

author: hyperknot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2019, 02:07:39 pm
content: Thanks. I've read through that thread, and I believe that for soldering speaker wires, connectors, etc. the floating voltage on the tip really doesn't matter. Am I wrong?About PSU-s, I've read through the comments and found this:QuoteSo that's probably not a good choice.Still, the 2 prong adjustable Excellway seems to be a good choice, no such bad reviews with that, I'm planning to order that one.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2019, 03:42:53 pm
content: 'Floating voltage' on the tip doesn't matter as long as you are only working on cables that aren't connected to any electronics, or are working on a device that's isolated on your bench with absolutely no external connections to it. However if you work on anything that's ground referenced, or has a power lead plugged in, even though its switched off at the socket, you risk zapping it. e.g. CMOS analog switches commonly used in consumer AV equipment for input selection are notably sensitive to ESD and leakage current damage.It would be easy enough to mod that PSU to resolve the issues. Its got pads for a fuse, so just cut and peel off the 'fuse' track and fit a suitable wire ended fuse. The leakage current through the Y capacitor to the floating output can be resolved one of two ways - ground the output, or add a cap of 10x the Y cap value in series with Y cap on the output side, and ground the junction of the new cap and the Y cap. In all cases the added ground wire should be insulated, and sleeved where it crosses the primary side circuit.

author: hyperknot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2019, 11:17:42 pm
content: OK, I've just done some basic tests. Set my multimeter to AC Voltage mode and connected one probe to the wall socket's earth pin and the other to the outer ring on two power supplies:- cheap 24V power supply I had at home, 2 prong plug: 115 Volt- Lenovo 20V 90W power supply, 3 prong plug: 0 VoltSo I guess this means that the Lenovo power supply has grounded V- and the cheap one has floating V-?

author: MAntunes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2020, 02:34:36 pm
content: Hi guys!I bought a TS100 and I'm going to use an existing 24V 100W power supply to power it.I just need to build a cable, but I can't decide on the diameter for the cable. Is 1.5mm2 enough? Or is too little, or too much?Also, do you recommend any connector? Or do you use generic 5.5mm x 2.5mm ones?Thank you!

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2020, 07:58:44 pm
content: Go for a DC jack with a forked inner contact (as image below - almost always yellow) rather than just a hollow sleeve, They have much higher contact rating and retention (it's easer to solder the inner contact too).For the cable, go for soft, flexible 2 core burn-proof silicone that is rated for the current (4 - 6A is enough - max power is 80W) rather than something too thick and inflexible. It makes all the difference to feel and handling. A little bit of voltage drop along a short length of high temperature silicone isn't a big deal - it only takes maximum current when warming up from cold anyway.

author: not1xor1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2020, 07:59:37 pm
content: Quote from: MAntunes on January 15, 2020, 02:34:36 pm100W / 24V = something more than 4A2 meters (1+1) of a 0.75mm2copper wire have a resistance of .049corresponding to a waste of power rof about 42* 50m= 800mW (well... (100/24)^2*49e-3 = 851mW)with 1.5mm2or cutting the length to 50cm of course you'd halve the power waste.I advice to choose a flexible cable rather than an ordinary one (i.e. class 6 ... seehttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60228)OK 100W is the available power not the power used by the solderanyway you now should be able to make up your mind

author: MAntunes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2020, 11:02:04 pm
content: Quote from: not1xor1 on January 15, 2020, 07:59:37 pmQuote from: Gyro on January 15, 2020, 07:58:44 pmThanks guys! Will follow your recomendationsAlso, do you know where I can find a 5.5mm x 2.5mm connector that supports thicker cables?I found this one:https://www.tme.eu/Document/06e9a5056fadb9e1303ee897bd8d50a0/FC6814lock.pdfbut it only supports cables up to 5.2mm in diameter...Other option is to use a connector with screw terminals, but that would be a last resort...

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2020, 01:22:53 pm
content: You do not need to rate the cable for 100W. The TS100 will pull 90W or so for about 10 seconds to reach 330*C, then it will go into modulation and pull a handful of watts. Maybe a short spike each time you do a solder joint. I can only see if hitting 90W constantly if you try and solder your plumbing pipes with it!So you only need a cable that can handle 4A for short bursts. So a cable rated for 2A would be fine.I just used the cable that came on the laptop supply 19V 4.5A (IIRC) I bought with a bit of 20AWG silicon 2 core flex on the end that was more fexible than the laptop lead.

author: No_Shorty
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2020, 08:41:36 pm
content: Can I just check I have read and understood this thread correctly and if I choose to use this PSU:https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=MPM-65#1In the PCB mount version, then this:Is an acceptable wiring diagram and will earth the iron?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2020, 10:11:48 am
content: Welcome,That looks like a decent quality choice. As the PSU is plastic encapsulated that is fine (with a metal cased psu, you would want the mains earth to the chassis too).If you are mounting the PSU in a metal case, it is important to securely connect that to your mains earth lead too. Also take care to use appropriate strain relief on the mains cable so that the live and neutral wires can't be stressed or detached.P.S. It's often a good idea to put a combined IEC socket and fuse holder on the enclosure rather than a flying mains lead. At the very least, ensure that your mains plug has a 3A fuse in it rather than a 13A.

author: No_Shorty
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2020, 11:28:08 am
content: Thanks for the reply, I chose it as I'm trying to keep the whole thing compact and it's a really nice small size.I am going to make a 3D printed base for it. I was thinking about an IEC socket for the AC inlet but as far as I can tell the smallest/thinnest version of these is the IEC320 'cloverleaf' style, which would make the base needlessly deep I think. So I nay just run a (fused, as you say) lead directly into the base I'm making.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2020, 12:01:21 pm
content: Fine. As I mentioned, just make sure your mains lead mechanical retention is up to the job.Make sure you use some nice flexible silicone cable for the output, it makes all the difference to the handling.

author: No_Shorty
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2020, 02:48:38 pm
content: I will do! - and I also picked up some of this silicone cable:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAPP-%C3%96LFLEX-HEAT-180-SiHF-0046001-CABLE-SILICONE-2-CORE-0-75mm-Per-m-3-28ft/321501332805?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=512959129428&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649for the run from the PSU to the iron

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2020, 06:38:28 pm
content: I had a quick scan of ebay (and CPC, Farnell and RS) too. It appears that the original 2 core cables linked in the various threads are no longer available in UK listings (therearesome from China).In the event that the 0.75mm2one you bought isn't flexible enough, I found one on Amazon. The seller (Designacable) looks familiar, I think they were the original seller on ebay. Worth keeping the link in reserve anyway, it's for a 2m length so you would get 2 reasonable cords out of it (mains and battery?)...https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silicone-Rubber-Wiring-Cable-2x0-25mm/dp/B07TFLQTT7/?th=1Hopefully you'll find the one you bought ok (please feed back if so), but at least it provides a 'just in case' option.

author: No_Shorty
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2020, 11:20:29 am
content: Thanks I actually found that cable a couple of times but I didn't think 0.25mm was adequate?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2020, 11:54:28 am
content: The cable is rated at 4A (higher than it would be in PVC). The TS100 manual indicates a consumption of 2.7A at 24V so you have some leeway. Also, the only time it is going to be pulling full current is during warm-up, it might get close if you're soldering something with high thermal mass, but on average, the current will be much lower.Irrc, the supplier also used to do a 0.4mm2, rated at 6A. I have one of each, I use the thinner one on a 6S Lithium battery pack (Lidl drill one) now but I originally had it on my 24V mains supply without problems.

author: djnz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2020, 07:40:33 am
content: If anyone needs power supply barrel jack converters from 2.1 mm diameter to 2.5 mm diameter and vice versa, check out element14 / Farnell order codes 2801275 and 2911017.Also, for those considering power bricks:MeanWell GST series does not have -ve DC output connected to earth ground and should be avoided for the TS100.The medical grade GSM B series is only 2 pin so do not get that either.However the medical grade GSM A series does have -ve DC connected to earth ground, so that is good.I think the MeanWell GSM90A24-P1M is a good candidate to consider.

author: No_Shorty
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2020, 10:20:42 am
content: Quote from: Gyro on June 21, 2020, 11:54:28 amShould amperage be calculated across both positive and negative, or should each cable be rated to carry the load?The cable I think we are talking about is this one:https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TFLQTT7?tag=duc08-21&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1Which describes the cable as 4amp (2x0.25mm) - which I assumed to mean 2amp per wire, which is lower than the rated spec. I couldn't find the 6amp cable version, hopefully the one I got wont feel too weighty.I did also check a 1m run of cable at 24v 2.7a with this tool:https://www.solar-wind.co.uk/info/dc-cable-wire-sizing-tool-low-voltage-drop-calculatorWhich suggested 0.5mm as an acceptable conductor (edit: I have just realised 0.5mm is the lowest size cable that tool will suggest(edit2: yea this tool:https://www.fabhabs.com/dc-cable-sizing-calculatorsays that 0.22 is the min... dang). I went for 0.75 just as 0.5 was harder to find (plus I wanted it in orange)edit: Just picked up the 0.75mm cable I bought. I think it will do nicely. I may yet pick up some 0.25mm cable as well but the 0.75 is lovely and flexible and its got a good thick jacket which will be nice and safe from any burns.I'll pop up a pic once I have the power supply all wired up.

author: No_Shorty
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2020, 11:41:41 am
content: The Mean Well MPM 65 24 is a very neat little PSU!Unfortunately the wire I bought is much too thick to fit the barrel jack adapters, so I need different wire.I hooked it up for a test in any case and it powers the TS100 no problemo.Here are some pics, along with its potted internals as I cant quite resist taking things apart:

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2020, 07:13:20 pm
content: Ha, you had some fun with that casing.Quote from: No_Shorty on July 09, 2020, 11:41:41 amThat's a shame. I see that the 0.25mm2has popped up on ebay again (yes it was designacable). Yes, it will handle the current, the resistive voltage drop isn't significant unless you overdo the length. It isverylight and flexible and doesn't weigh down the back of the iron. It is a loose fit in a standard DC jack (1 layer of 2:1 heatshrink makes it a snug fit). As it is now an ebay listing (rather than Amazon) you have the opportunity to contact the seller to see if they still have any of their 0.4mm26A cable, which is a perfect fit.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Core-EWK-Silicone-Rubber-DC-Wiring-Cable-4-amp-2x0-25mm-Flexible-LED-Solar/163699838807

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2020, 10:53:43 am
content: Idea for TS100 power cabling:https://youtu.be/ncmFMPiKLtEhttps://youtu.be/RYJ6abc84lo

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2020, 12:00:06 pm
content: That second video is a bit of a dog's breakfast.All that faffing around with screwing the 1/4" jack outer shell onto the outside of the DC jack, ending up with a heavy counterweight that's larger diameter than the iron! With all that twisting I'd lay odds that he made the connector intermittent. He didn't even use an appropriately rated DC jack.The first guy at least used the proper Yellow tipped jack with the forked centre contact to firmly grip the centre pin, that one is rated for Amps, not ~100mA.Yes, that tattoo machine cable looks ok, the insulation to copper ratio looks quite high though (small conductor area for the overall size). I wouldn't bother with any bend relief other than what is provided by the DC jack (a proper Yellow tipped one), or maybe a short length of heatshrink. Thumbs up for heat resistance but round section rather than twin is always nice though, it doesn't have a preferred bend direction.

author: No_Shorty
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2020, 07:25:31 am
content: I bought the 0.25mm cable in the end and even that needed the barrel jack widening a little to accommodate it!The 0.25mm cable is lovely and flexible however, and I like the orange!Here are some pics of my finished PSU:

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2020, 09:49:32 am
content: Nicely finished.One mod that I've found really makes a difference to ergonomics is putting a plastic washer (I used PTFE) up at the top of the tip, up against the TS100 body. This provides a positive stop for your fingertips and allows you to use a little more pressure without having to grip as tightly. It also keeps the tip off the bench if you simply lay it down. Irrc, there are plenty of candidates that can be reamed to size on ebay...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ts100-soldering-iron-test/msg1343465/#msg1343465

author: No_Shorty
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2020, 02:11:59 pm
content: Thanks, yea I saw this I think earlier in the thread, I'm considering options for resting it at the moment and thats defo high on my list of easy and simple solutions!

author: PetersNL
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 05, 2021, 01:56:18 pm
content: Would you be willing to share the STL or STEP file of the model? I'm considering making this myself after seeing your result

author: ozbird
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 12, 2021, 05:46:09 pm
content: I've been thinking about getting a TS100/TS80P soldering iron for a while, and keep asking my wife for one for Christmas.I don't have a suitable USB-C power supply for the TS80P (yet), so the TS100 seems like the better option for me.My laptop has a 180W(?) 19.5 volt power brick with a "DC5525" jack - I assume this is fine for the TS100?(180W is OTT, but I assume the TS100 will only draw what it needs.)Cheers!(BTW, I have a Weller WTCPT-style soldering station which I love. The TS100 would be for those times I don't have access to the Weller, or just need to make a quick fix.)

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2021, 06:28:04 pm
content: Yes, that supply should be fine, and should net you just over 40W, very similar to the WTCP (by coincidence, that's my combination too). It would be best to check that the power brick has a 3 pin mains input, with the outer barrel of the DC jack connected to the mains earth pin.The only usability issue you might have is he physical weight / stiffness of the wire from the brick, but that can be tackled later using a short length of silicone rubber cable as discussed above.USB-C is ok, but the TS100 lends itself to hooking up to 18/20V power tool batteries and chargers (such as the economical ones that Lidl sell) - assuming you don't have something already. Probably the cheapest way of achieving true portability with bench grade heat output. I modified a battery pack with a 5525 socket, but if you have access to a 3D printer, there are now several designs for slide-on adapters, some of them including stands.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/teardown-lidl-20v-2ah-lithium-battery-pack-and-charger/msg3541810/Edit: If you use the Ralim TS100 Firmware (now called IronOS as it supports more models), it includes battery monitoring and auto shutoff features to prevent battery pack damage.

author: ozbird
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 12, 2021, 06:53:07 pm
content: Thanks for the reply, Gyro!I'll have to double check the earth pin, but from memory the power brick has a 3 pin "Mickey Mouse" style connector (with a 3 pin Australian power cable.)Using the laptop power brick directly was going to be a quick hack if a) my wife bought me a TS100, and b) she asked me to demonstrate it.A "burn proof" flexible silicone cable like the Weller is the way to go for regular use.I saw Adam Savage's TS100 video with the power tool battery adapter - love it!Cheers!

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2021, 07:03:32 pm
content: I hadn't seen that video, thanks.P.S. Welcome to the forum.EDIT: Having watched the video I think Adam has made a bit of a mistake there. I can see his motivation for doing it, but using that aftermarket Dewalt battery adapter limits him to a 12V supply to the TS100. This reduces his output power to around 17W - still equivalent to a little pencil style Antex of whatever, but pretty poor compared the the 40+W that he could get from direct battery connection (obviously not to a 60V one!).