hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Rec. for 1st Vacuum Tube Audio Amp DIY Project? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: cyf
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 17, 2014, 09:14:47 pm
content: Hi All, I am looking for a vacuum tube audio amp kit to put together with my 13-y-o daughter. I have plenty experience soldering and working with electrical components, and would like to share the joy of putting something together with her. I, never having had experience with audio projects, list what I think should be the characteristics in what I am looking for (however, I could totally be off base on one or more of the characteristics):wattage high enough for powering a pair of small professional speakers (which will be enough for professional headphones)clean power is more important than pure powerpre-etched PCB (I've etched my own, but it's been a while and I certainly would prefer a clean look)option to select "better" parts (like higher quality capacitors)under $300?does not need to have an enclosure, as I can make my ownonce parts are assembled, something we can put together over a couple (or couple+?) weekendsAny thoughts would be appreciated.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2014, 10:51:32 pm
content: I'd be concerned about the high voltages required for most valve circuits.Perhaps solid state is safer option, at least for a first project?

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2014, 12:01:10 am
content: You seem to be looking for a kit. Something in the 0.5w/1w, assuming reasonably efficient speakers, should be more than sufficient.

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2014, 08:01:32 am
content: https://tubedepot.com/t/diy-central/kits-tube-amp

author: cyf
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 18, 2014, 09:20:05 am
content: Quote from: Hero999 on November 17, 2014, 10:51:32 pmI considered this, and am fairly confident there won't be any issues--mainly because she will be relegated to working on some soldering. We'll be careful and read that thread on safety!Also found this website:https://id3466.securedata.net/s5electronics/forms/ltubeorder.html
Recapping a Samsung Synchmaster 215tw-What's needed? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: djsb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2013, 03:52:13 pm
content: Hi,My PC monitor has started to flicker. I'm considering replacing the capacitors in the power supply. Anyone know where to get a service manual? Alternatively a list of the parts I should replace? I will be replacing it anyway as I need a monitor for my PC.Shame to throw it out though if I can get a bit more life out of it.Any help appreciated?David.

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2013, 04:12:34 pm
content: Hi,if the caps are bad replace them.Theres plenty of info about your monitor and other samsungs if you search around.You can even buy a repair kit on ebay,but its far cheaper to buy your own parts.http://wcoastsands.blogspot.co.uk/2009/11/samsung-syncmaster-215tw.htmlhttp://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7952http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22688

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2013, 04:19:57 pm
content: Open it up, post pictures of the boards inside... you'll get help. Most likely you'll only have replace a few capacitors but you need good quality low esr capacitors to replace the old ones, not any kind of capacitors.Unless you ordered before from eBay from someone you trust, skip it. In UK, you can get original good parts fromhttp://uk.farnell.com,http://www.rs-online.com/index.html...Also forget about Maplin and other such stores, they have cheap low quality capacitors and cheap parts in general.

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2013, 05:11:42 pm
content: Quote from: mariush on September 15, 2013, 04:19:57 pmI agree about maplin ,they had jamicon brand last time i went there.I buy caps from 2 sellers i trust on ebay :pcmcs (hong kong) and h.m. comp (u.k.)http://stores.ebay.co.uk/h-m-comp?_trksid=p2047675.l2563http://stores.ebay.co.uk/PC-MotherBoard-Capacitors-Store?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
Suggestions for BT module for audio-streaming with reliable auto-reconnect  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ricko_uk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2025, 07:24:55 pm
content: Hi,I haven't used (or written any code for) Bluetooth modules before, and I need to add audio-streaming to a product. I did some Googling but still not sure which module might be best suited for this application. Any help or guidance is much appreciated.The essential requirements are below and I can easily find them on any distributor. But the first point is the sticky one which I have no idea how to find out for each of the various modules available.The essential requirements:- extremely reliable (and fast) auto-reconnect after out of range or powered down (even long time, hours or days).No idea how to find out this about each module.- audio streaming (either with >=10 bits DAC output or I2S output)- easy to write code for audio streaming and auto-reconnect (i.e. plenty of examples, libraries and support). And preferably using AT commands.- 10-15USD in 1K quantitiesI was looking at the ESP32, but after googling quite a bit, it seems that auto-reconnect doesn't always work (even if you store the address in ROM - which apparently seems to be a common mistake people make in the code). Is that correct? Are there solutions to guarantee 100% auto-reconnect reliability?Regardless of that potential ESP32 issue are there any modules you would reccomend that meet those specs?Thank you

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2025, 07:48:11 pm
content: there is no perfect ways, because you need to do a periodic scan and redo a connection if the connection is lost, presence detection for paired devices ...code and hardware must support thisthere is some infos on Android development using some function calls, some on I-Phone tooi never found ultra reliable solutions, there is always some lag for hardware response, even in wi-fi streaming, alas i do it by cableswitch you don't want

author: paprikaingot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 01, 2025, 02:48:42 am
content: For audio streaming, you'll need a module with good support for I2S (for sending data to an external DAC) or possibly even a module with an integrated DAC. ESP32 is one of the most popular modules out there for wireless audio applications, and it supports I2S natively, which makes it great for streaming audio to an external DAC. You can find tons of examples and libraries online for audio streaming with the ESP32, and it's one of the most well-supported chips, so getting help from the community or examples is fairly easy.

author: ricko_uk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2025, 12:38:48 pm
content: Thank you both,from googling it seems the ESP32 is not that reliable when it comes to auto-reconnect.Does anybody have any feedback on making the auto-reconnect very reliable (and preferably relatively quick)? Has anybody got that to work well?Thank you
Reccomended laser printer for cold toner transfer PCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: geggi1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2022, 12:10:00 pm
content: Hi all!I'm looking to get back into making circuit boards for my electronics projects.During some of my research I came over the method of toner transfer with acetone or mail polish remover.Currently I don't have laser printer at home, but available at work.In the future I'm planning to get a cheep printer.Locally I can get these printers for a reasonable price.Brother HL-1212W MonoHP Laserjet M209dwe Wi-FiBrother DCP-L2537DWKYOCERA FS-1041 1800 X 600 DPI A4BROTHER HL-L2310DBROTHER HL-L2350DWBROTHER DCP-L2510DCANON I-SENSYS LBP113WCan anybody come with a reccomandation on printer and toner?

author: geggi1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2022, 04:08:18 pm
content: Quote from: geggi1 on June 27, 2022, 12:10:00 pm

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2022, 05:12:45 pm
content: I know it’s focused on hot toner transfer, but might have some useful info regardless:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/best-printer-for-toner-transfer/
Receiving ultrasonic transducer picking up EM noise - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: raff5184
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2019, 05:01:03 pm
content: Hi,I am designing an ultrasonic receiver, to get data in 120-180 kHz bandwidth. My receiving transducer is connected to a commercial pre-amp (50dB gain). The transducer however is picking up noise about 150 mV peak-to-peak. Seems to be white noise. What are the approaches to reduce the noise? I already covered the transducer with epoxy and it did help, but not much.the pre-amp has adjustable filter bandwidth but increasing the filtering doesn't help, makes the noise worse

author: KaneTW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2019, 05:03:44 pm
content: Check the power rails for SMPS noise. Shield the preamp, use coax or twisted pair for transducer cabling.
Rechargeable AAA, AA and 9V battery charging circuit with solar panel - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Dyldogz22
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 06, 2018, 11:59:16 pm
content: Hello,I am trying to design a charging unit for AAA, AA and 9V batteries. I know I have to take into account the fast charge/trickle charge aspects but am unsure how to approach the trickle charge requirement.I will be using a TPST switch to alternate between each type of battery. I therefore assume three different charging circuits are required, is there a way to make this easier?Thanks!

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2018, 12:09:43 am
content: you didnt give any hint at what size solar panel, your desired charge rates, which chemisties, etcSo I will break it in 2, the first being a single battery charger,You will want an input sepic or boost converter to take the solar power output, down to really low voltages and boost it up to something usable for the battery.Next is a multichemistry Charger IC, or a roll your own with a microcontroller, In any case when the circuit is unpowered, or in the process of loosing power it should not discharge the batterySecondly a multi battery charger, this comes down to your goals, you can either parrellelise with each battery getting a charger IC, or look into how some of the commercial ones do it, monitoring each batteries voltage, charging the entire string with a constant current source and bypassing the current source on a cell when it is charged,
Rechargeable battery selection for powering LEDs at an off the grid festival? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Metatronic_Mods
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2017, 04:11:36 pm
content: Hi all, so a couple years ago I bought one of the Tentsile "tree tents" for festival camping. To really complete the UFO parked in the trees look I added some addressable LED strips running a custom program. Thus far, I've been using a 20Ah deep cycle non-spillable lead acid battery, which works fine but I've probably drastically reduced it's life with the sparse chargings and lack of attention to discharge amounts.Seeing as it's nearly time for a replacement, I'm wondering if a deep cycle battery is still the way to go, or if there's some charge controlled lithium battery that would be better suited to the task? The downsides of the deep cycle are size/weight, and no way to prevent over-discharging (though I suppose I could eventually add that in to my control box).At any rate, the requirements are 12V for the LEDs. They draw on average 0.75A, and I typically run them for ~20 hours over the course of a weekend. So I'd ideally want >=15Ah, but I could always cut down the brightness or run time.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2017, 06:55:24 am
content: I find lead-acid batteries are pretty tough and low cost.The only thing a lithium battery could offer is smaller size and higher cost. They need more care against over-discharge and proper charging.Either way you should probably incorporate a low-voltage cutoff.There areLiFePO4 using 24 of 3,300mAh cells to get 12V 20Ah.But $270 with balancing PCM. 5 times longer life & lighter weight. Just expensive.
Rechargeable Continuity Tester - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: WacKEDmaN
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 28, 2021, 07:09:44 am
content: so my cheap ass multimeter died right when i needed to check some traces on a board im working on.. i thought the battery had gone flat, so i replaced it, and the meter is making a weird buzzing sound and the display is corrupt...yesterday, i ended up making a very simple rechargeable continuity tester from my parts bin, and the old multimeters leads...it consists of a 17670 battery, battery holder, TP4056 charging module, and superbrite blue LED!...and some hotsnot!yeah yeah..i know..totally lame!..today i have replaced the meter with a QM1321, its nice, works well, and has lifetime warranty!
Rechargeable electronic scale - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: wintech
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2019, 08:27:00 pm
content: I had hacked an electronic scale that uses 2 AAA batteries and the battery holder was broken so I had used a old phone li ion,a buck converter,a charger module and a switch and this costed less than 2$.
Recharging 9 Volt Li-Ion Battery - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: JamboTheRuminant
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 03, 2024, 02:08:34 pm
content: Hello,I'm working on an electronics project using arduino and am planning on have this arduino be permanently enclosed within a waterproof container.This container will be operating normally underwater. With that being said, I need to charge the battery powering the arduino within this container.I was looking to use wireless charging but I had a few concerns.1. Would a wireless charing circuit need to behave any differently since the battery will always be plugged into the arduino?2. What should be the the configuration of the battery between the arduino and charging circuit in order for thermal runway not to occur?If someone could please help me find some off the shelf parts or guide me to find a good source of information on this I would greatly appreciate it.Thanks.

author: MarkT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2024, 03:04:28 pm
content: If its one of these PP3 sized "9V" LiIon batteries its a 2S pack probably with rudimentary charge/discharge protection, but this might depend on the exact battery you use. If always powered you only need the load current plus a trickle charge amount. It might make sense to find a full BMS with charge management for 2S pack.If its salt water I would worry about the wireless charging power getting dissipated in the water unless the charger and unit are mounted in flat contact.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2024, 03:32:49 am
content: That was my reaction too, you're starting with something that's bunch of kludges and compromises to make it quack like a 6F22 battery, you'd be better off using a BMS with 18650s or NiMH AAs or similar. Google "arduino rechargeable battery" or similar for lots of discussions on this.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2024, 07:11:37 am
content: Why can't some wires be ran into the waterproof box instead of a battery ?
Recognize this chip? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: JimRemington
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 06:49:20 pm
content: It is one of 3 motor driver chips in a controller for a five phase, ten wire Vexta PX533M-A-C6 stepper motor.I can't find any manufacturer with that logo, or PBL, or anything under Y450. Thanks in advance for any leads!

author: elecman14
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 07:00:48 pm
content: Looks like it is a PBL 3771 made by Ericson, googling "PBL 3771" will get you a data sheet
Recognize WLCSP-6 voltage level switch IC in Raspberry pi 4 model B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 23, 2023, 01:54:01 pm
content: Can anyone recognize this WLCSP-6 IC from Raspberry pi 4 model B?Appears to be voltage supervisor, probably with watchdog functionality. Marking does not look like Analog devices part but they have some similar parts, did not find exact match from their offering though. Output appears to be active high (Rpi runs when it's high) and open drain (not 100% sure). EDIT: Nope it's a voltage level switch like thishttps://fscdn.rohm.com/en/products/databook/datasheet/ic/power/power_switch/bd2204gul-e.pdfalthough not exact part, pinout does not match. If I put logic high to it's input, it switches output from 3.3V to 1.8V. I became suspicious as I inspected it's opposite side and it looked like there are MOSFETS to out pin from two nearby terminals.Schematic is as actual pinout from the top view. Input goes to another IC (last photo) which is present since Raspberry pi 3 but I don't know what it is either. If anyone knows it would be helpful too.Marking appears to be:QSxx. Kxx (xx changes on different ICs)Raspberry Pi Foundation does not provide full schematic, and this IC is not present on partial one.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 23, 2023, 02:02:21 pm
content: Also I suspect that pin connected through 10R resistor is an actual VDD since it has a thicker trace than pin connected to it directly.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 23, 2023, 05:37:40 pm
content: Bingo! It's FPF1320UCXhttps://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2552669.pdf, goodto know to those who want to repair their Pi4 as this IC seems to be cracked quite often especially on older Rev. 1.1 boards where it's located on the bottom side.
Recognizing a connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2020, 02:29:00 pm
content: Hello, what are the connectors on this board (or better what are they ripping-off)?https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33030314768.htmlAre they VH? I do not have the board yet, so I cannot measure the pitch, but from the other components it seems around 4mm

author: Vovk_Z
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2020, 04:03:47 pm
content: Don't know what LED is there (3 mm?) near output conector but through-hole optocoupler (817) have about 4.6 mm wide case, so low voltage connector can be about 4 mm (3.96 mm) or 5 mm (5.08 mm). And high voltage connector I think has the same pitch (but 3 pin).A3960H (=VH) type (or NX5080)?

author: Vovk_Z
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2020, 04:15:48 pm
content: I made some investigation. It seems to me that it is 4 mm pitch.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2020, 04:20:49 pm
content: Don't know the name, but I am using for them female connectors from ATX computer power supplies, cut to the required size. They have the same step and the same pin thickness.

author: Vovk_Z
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2020, 04:24:59 pm
content: ATX connector has 4 mm (4.14 or 4.20 mm) step.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2020, 04:37:45 pm
content: Found the specs from mine (mean well PT-45), the mechanical drawings show the connector models.

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2020, 01:39:49 am
content: They indeed look like the molex 5277, thank you!
Recomendations for low current buck converters? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: krivx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2014, 03:58:55 pm
content: I want to convert some audio phantom power supplies (48V, 1-2mA) to power some microphones that would be happier at around 12V. I've found that most buck converter ICs seems to perform badly at such low output currents - most of the TI parts get less than 40% efficiency at this point. Are there parts that can handle a 48V input and are optimized for low-power operation? Is there another search term or buzzowrd I should be looking at? Cheers.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2014, 06:15:53 pm
content: Efficiency tends to lose importance at such low current levels except in micro power applications but integrated low power and high input voltage buck switching regulators do exist:http://www.linear.com/product/LT3990What kind of output current are you expecting? If it is acceptable that the output current equal the input current and the 48 volt supply is regulated, then I would consider just using a 36 volt zener diode to drop the voltage.

author: AndyC_772
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2014, 07:37:12 pm
content: I wouldn't be using a switcher at all. Not only are we talking about a vanishingly small amount of power, but you also need a power source which is exceptionally quiet. It's being added to an extremely low level audio signal with essentially no PSRR at all, so low noise is infinitely more important than a few stray milliwatts.
Recommandation for SPI development tool - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: pisoiu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2019, 02:51:48 pm
content: Hi,Quite often I have to test/evaluate various SPI slave devices (sensors, expanders, etc) and I'm kind of sick of writing firmware in development boards for each of them.If somebody knows a good and not too expensive development tool to send transactions to SPI slave, please tell me where to look at.What I need in terms of features:-a small board connected to usb, which acts as a SPI master and have standard spi connections (chip select, miso, mosi, sck) and a 5v output power.-a good app to deal with this, which is able to define parameters of transactions (spi mode, speed, commands, what/how many bytes to send, how many bytes to read, etc). I need to perform simple transactions, not complicated or long ones such as flash memory block read/writes, etc.Thank you.

author: alanambrose
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2019, 03:00:02 pm
content: See this thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/best-mechanism-for-generating-test-patterns-on-110-gpio-lines/msg2806720/#msg2806720I'll post my experience with the FT232H...Alan

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2019, 03:24:01 pm
content: If you're looking for an off-the-shelf product, something like this exists:https://diolan.com/usb-spi-adapters

author: pisoiu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2019, 08:47:53 pm
content: This is exactly what I'm looking for, thanks.

author: jhpadjustable
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2019, 01:54:24 am
content: The Bus Pirate from Dangerous Prototypes is a nice little Swiss Army knife to have around for basic stimulation of the usual serial buses. If you don't mind plugging text into a serial port as the primary interface, it might be a useful addition to your bench. Personally, I just use an Orange Pi with Ethernet and use shell or other scripts to exercise the devices.
Recommandation needed for solid offline flyback chip - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 08:59:06 pm
content: Hey,I have a project where we need a small off-line supply delivering something like 12V/3W...5W for powering the control part of the circuit. Definitely want to go for integrated switch chip. Stuff is cost sensitive, will be made in 5-10k/yr volumes, but the quality has to be kept (client's requirement). This means that the chip has got to be name brand, not some Chinese knockoff. I have previously used PI TinySwitch chips, but they are not the most cost effective. I know that ST has their VIPer series and Infineon has CoolSet Quasi Resonant and Constant Frequency families. The voltage regulation is not the most important thing, as everything is behind downstream voltage regulators.I need some practical info for/against any of those chips. Maybe you know of some other manufacturer, that also has some integrated offline chips that you have good experience with? I'm looking for informations like 'we had problems with this because it was sensitive to xyz...' and so on. Any feedback is gonna be helpful

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 10:05:51 pm
content: Wait so why do you definitely want to go with integrated transistor? Space?How about Power Integrations LinkSwitch-3 or LinkSwitch-4. Primary side sensing, low parts count.

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 10:19:48 pm
content: We've had good results with the MPS MP17x series offline switchers. Check out their prices on Digikey.https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/products/ac-dc-power-conversion/hv-buck-regulators-lt-10w.html

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 10:36:04 pm
content: may want to also check out Monolithic Power's offerings ....primary side regulation :https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/products/ac-dc-power-conversion/flybacks/primary-side-regulation.htmlsecondary side regulation :https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/products/ac-dc-power-conversion/flybacks/secondary-side-regulation.htmlMouser has them in stock (at least the primary side regulation ones), digikey also has some.(lol forgot to hit submit before leaving for dinner)
Recommend a part for... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2017, 04:28:13 pm
content: I'm going to have two PCB's sandwiched together - 16mm distance between them. I need to route the power from 3xAA batteries from one board to the other. The last limitation as that I don't want to use anything through hole - the soldering of these parts should be on the inside so it isn't visible on the outer edges.So far I've found something like:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sullins-connector-solutions/NPPC021KFXC-RC/S5633-ND/776092https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/samtec-inc/TSM-102-02-L-SV/SAM10268-ND/6679005

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2017, 08:49:19 pm
content: Have a look hereSMD contact springs. There are the usual battery clips etc., but there are also 'springs' intended for board to board and EMC mitigation. You might find something that fits the bill.
Recommend a Zigbee module? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 19, 2015, 02:12:19 am
content: There's tons of them out there and the prices vary pretty widely.I'm wondering if anyone is using any specific brand in a commercial product and could recommend (or advise against) any specific module or brand?This is for an IoT application - small-ish volumes, <5k pieces a year to start, not likely to exceed 10k/yr.

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2015, 03:02:59 am
content: The great majority of installed Zigbee radios aren't used. That suggests choosing the cheap junk possible is probably the most effective solution.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 19, 2015, 03:19:19 am
content: Quote from: coppice on June 19, 2015, 03:02:59 amWhat do you mean "aren't used"? Do you mean the feature is included in products that are bought by customers who don't care about that feature?In this case, the Zigbee functionality is the core of the product, so lack of use isn't part of the calculation. There is a pretty wide range of prices and all the manufacturers (of course) claim their modules are the best, so just wondering if there's value in the more expensive modules.

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2015, 03:21:44 am
content: There are millions of Zigbee radios in things like smart meters, put there for communications that nobody really wants. The number of volume applications for Zigbee which are actively used seems small.

author: HackedFridgeMagnet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2015, 05:48:34 am
content: Questions:Is it point to point or master to slaves or static packet hopping mesh or a self configuring mesh with packet hopping and movable nodes?Freq, I guess you are looking at 433 or 915Mhz not WLan(Zigbee also has modules for that)RangeData ratewhat kind of antennas can u usedo you want a module or can just use the chips.I have used Zigbee in a self configuring mesh it is ok but expensive.For point to point I have used Semtech in modules made by hoperf.com they were ok and much cheaper.I would also consider Nordic and TI or others who have microprocessors with rf capability.You would need some sort of diversity channel hopping capability for your network, just to save you some grief. So look for someone who has it built in or has a software stack in which it is implemented.Personally I wouldn't go Zigbee, due to cost, power and closed stack. It's a learning journey either way.QuoteThat's a nice way to start.
Recommend an LED driver (hysteretic control, high side drive) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: amaschas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2022, 08:22:52 am
content: Hey all, so I've run into a bit of a problem with a design for an RGB LED light that I created before the onset of the pandemic that was based around two specific TI driver ICs: the TPS92515 and the LM3409, both of which offer hysteretic control (or average current control mode) and drive the supply from the high side. The former is helpful because my use case requires high frequency PWM dimming, and hysteretic control lets me do away with an output capacitor and use a FET as a short on the output to turn the LEDs on and off while still maintaining a constant current in the inductor. I'd love to keep using these ICs, but they are basically out of stock for next several _years_, and if I want to make progress on my project I need to find a replacement.There are several offerings from different manufacturers that provide hysteretic control like the HV9910B from Microchip and the AL8861 from Diodes Incorporated, but pretty much everything I've found switches on the low side rather than the high side. The reason I want to switch on the high side is because it lets me use a shared ground for all three strings, significantly reducing the complexity of routing the LED array.So my requirements are:1) actually available2) hysteretic (average current mode) control3) high side driveSome nice pluses if I can find them:1) 3 channels in 1 IC would be nice2) Integrated switching FET like the TPS92515 would also be pretty sweetHas anyone come across an LED driver, or even a buck regulator that would fulfill these requirements?
Recommend an outdoor CEE 7/7 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rounin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2025, 03:57:49 am
content: Any recommendations for an outdoor, splash-proof (eg IP54+) CEE 7/7 ("Schuko") plug for an industrial cabinet?Needs- ~ IP54, maybe IP44- accept 12AWG / 2.5mm^2 wire (or at least 14AWG, 16AWG is too small for the other connector's contacts on the other end of the cable).- Field terminatable, eg screw jacks- cable clamp with o-ring feature to seal to cable- wide temp range would be nice (-40degC - +70degC)- Just CEE 7/4 type F would be ok, don't have to support the ground pin version, but might as well be CEE 7/7 afaik- Preferably not be a IP68 one that needs a special receptacle tooCurrently looking at PCE Taurus2 & TopTaurus2, eg p/n 05721-SS, 0521-SS, 0522-SS. Will terminate onto 12AWG/3C cable and a 38999 on the other end that plugs into a control cabinet I make.PCE's TopTaurus2 seems nice enough, just the temp range is smaller then I would like @ -25degC to 40degC. Would prefer a bit wider operating range.
recommend dc/dc converter for LED trinket - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: djacobow
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2019, 09:47:46 pm
content: I'm designing a alkaline cell powered LED ornament / trinket to give as a gift for next year's holiday gifts. Basically, going to be some WS2812B or WS2813 LEDs on a two-layer PCB with a microcontroller and batteries.There will be about 30 LEDs and they draw a max of 50mA each (though I probably won't ever run all of them full-out, ever). But that would be a peak current of 1.5A.It would be nice to supply these things with 6V directly from 4xAA batteries or 4.5V from 3xAA batteries, but the datasheet says 5V is required with 5.3V max, so I need some kind of regulator. If the voltage goes much below 5V, the blue channels stops working.So, I am looking at a buck/boost IC or maybe just using 3xAA and a boost only IC. The goal is to really suck the marrow out of the batteries.I don't have a lot of experience working with switcher chips, but what I have has been uneventful. I mean, I've used older parts like LM2596 and using the PCB layout suggested in the datasheet, I've had no issues.I'd like:- hassle-free (no weird lock up or shutdown states)- very common- cheap- internal power transistor(s)- low quiescent power and/or power down- SOIC/SOPI'm thinking something like TPS63060 / TPS63061 as a buck/boost, or maybe LM2623 for boost only. Both are in QFN-ish package, tho. :-(There are so many parts out there, aside from price and the required current and input/output voltage range, I never know where to start. Usually I sort by quantity in stock. I figure if there are 243,000 on hand on Digikey, it must be a popular part.Any recommendations for favorites?
Recommend general purpose humidity sensor (interface with Raspbery Pi) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Red Squirrel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2015, 06:51:49 am
content: This is for my home environmental control system, I just want a couple to play with and also put into use. I want 0-100% range, decent accuracy like within a few %, 5 volt supply, and i2c or perhaps even 1-wire or other digital signal that will be easy enough to interface with the RPI.I found this:http://www.digikey.ca/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=169546055&uq=635635357960147122&CSRT=10012467184009429983Before I pay that price I just want to see if there's anything else I might be missing. I'm completely new to RPI interfacing so this will be a learning project. Basically I'm converting my arduino based home automation system (which uses a server for most of the logic) to use a RPI and it's pins directly.And on subject of asking for a general purpose part figured I'd ask here too, what is a good general purpose ADC that has decent res, like 16 bit or even 24 or 32? Something that takes 5ish volt as input would be ideal.

author: picandmix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2015, 09:18:53 am
content: That link does not work..For a simple cheap sensor the DHT11 /22 range might do, though not I2c .For a quality sensor then the Sensirion range is the way to go, though expensive.http://www.sensirion.com/fileadmin/user_upload/customers/sensirion/Dokumente/Humidity/Sensirion_Humidity_SHT21_Datasheet_V4.pdfhttps://www.adafruit.com/products/1638

author: Red Squirrel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2015, 10:12:12 am
content: Hmmm odd guess the link is cookied and only works on my PC.This one might work:http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/HIH6030-021-001/480-5704-1-ND/4291617Digikey part # 480-5704-1-ND, $13.70I saw the DHT11 /22 too and it is an option but figured I'd check out i2c options first.

author: eejake52
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2015, 08:48:09 pm
content: Several years back, I used a Honeywell HIH-3610 humidity sensor, combined with a DS2450 1-wire A/D. The circuit scavenged power from the 1-wire bus and there was some calculations required, but it did provide a fairly reliable reading of humidity in the cool-air return duct of my house.
Recommend me some logic sim software please! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 07, 2013, 05:22:14 pm
content: Preferably free/open source, though if it's reasonably priced and very good I am not a complete Scrooge and will pay if I have to. I want to be able to simulate behaviour of most standard parts, and also things like the 74138/139 and 4051.I am currently using the "squared paper and a pen" technique and while I think I'm getting closer to a solution it takes a loooong time.

author: lgbeno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2013, 05:40:04 pm
content: You can try ViaDesigner mixed signal simulation software.ViaDesigner.comAlso check out some application examples at community.viadesigner.comUse the coupon code AMP100 and you'll get a free one year license.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2013, 09:10:55 pm
content: get altera quartus. even though it is an FPGA tool it has a schematic editor and has a library with all 74xx chips and all basic gates and flipflops.wire em up and simulate to your hearts content. just grab a version that is older than 10.3 as they removed the waveform based simulation in later versions and you need to use modelsim (which is harder to grasp for a beginner )www.altera.comit is free ( but a HUGE download at multiple gigabytes)
Recommend reflow oven and hot air rework station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Nikos A.
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2021, 11:52:58 am
content: Hi everyone,We are considering buying a reflow oven and a hot air rework station for the company. I would like to ask you for your opinion given that we have a total budget of around 1300 USD. We do not look for a super professional equipment since we are an R&D company and mostly building and design prototypes. Searching around I found the QUICK QU861DW (around 340$) that is recommended by Louis Rossmann and David L. Jones and it looks a descent rework station. Concerning the reflow oven, I do not have any previous experience and I am wondering if I could buy a good quality within the range of 800-1000$. Also, I’ve read some reviews for reflow ovens that experience fumes issues..Also, I found this rework station that combines hot air, vacuum pick up and temperature profiles. However, is quite expensive and I am not if the price reflects its capabilities.https://europe.okinternational.com/europe-web-store/english/globalnavigation/Europe-Webstore-Product-Detail?productId=9a114831-40d4-4806-a26d-066914c58631With that been said, do you have any recommendations for reflow ovens and hot air rework stations?Nick
Recommendation for a 4-channel PWM LED Driver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: optoisolated
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 03, 2018, 04:31:15 am
content: Hi All,I'm looking for part suggestions for a 4-channel PWM I2C part for driving indicator LEDs. I'm currently considering thse PCA9685 and while within budget, it seems excessive to use a chip capable of driving 16 channels, when I only really need 4. Open to any suggestions and/or feedback. Using the PWM for dynamic brightness control of the indicator LEDs so that it doesn't blind people at 3am and for general adjust-ability. Using standard 5MM Red, Yellow, Green, Blue LEDs.Goal with part choice is to reduce BOM if possible.Cheers.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2018, 12:47:36 pm
content: If you only want global control, (vs per-led), then it's usually pretty trivial to do in software

author: optoisolated
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 01, 2018, 12:55:35 pm
content: If I trim the brightness in my design so they are visually equal with some resistors and then use the CPU to adjust the brightness with PWM as you suggest, that soiunds like it will work.. Will muck around with it this week and see if it will work as I expect it to.. Cheers
Recommendation for a CAD software for simple projects. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: illusive
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2017, 04:47:53 pm
content: Hi there,I was thinking about learning some basic skills in some CAD software for some years now to help me with the design of mostly project boxes, panels and simple stuff like that in order to get everything to fit right. What can you recommend for a beginner? Solidworks and Fusion 360 seem like a popular choices. What is your favorite software for similar needs?

author: magtux
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 25, 2017, 07:52:29 pm
content: You can try Fusion 360. Biggest selling point is that its free and they'll even give you hobbyist license. Solidworks goes anywhere between $9k-15k I hear so I don't know if that is worth it. There are also others like Alibre where you can get a personal license for $199. Try each one and make your pick.

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2017, 02:17:04 pm
content: Blender,LibreCADOpenSCAD are all free and seem worth learning

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2017, 07:45:24 am
content: Quote from: cdev on November 26, 2017, 02:17:04 pmI wouldn't recommend any of those for mechanical layout/design (yes I've used them, some more than others).Quote from: illusive on November 25, 2017, 04:47:53 pmFreeCad is a good free alternative to Solidworks (parametric modelling) but its not quite up to speed with assemblies yet, but for checking fit of PCBs to enclosures its more than acceptable.

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 27, 2017, 09:15:18 am
content: "CAD" is too generic. 2D? 3D? Mechanical?

author: TheUnnamedNewbie
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2017, 04:26:52 pm
content: When it comes to mechanical cad, I have used AutoCAD, Autodesk Inventor, SolidWorks, and Solid Edge.I'm a big fan of inventor, and would pretty much chose it over any of the ones in the list. Since from what I have seen Fusion3D is somewhat similar, I would suggest looking at that. I've never liked working with SolidWorks, but I'm not sure how much of that is just because I was trained on Inventor/AutoCAD and my mental designflow matches that software better because of that.When it comes to PCB CAD: Depends on what I'm doing. My general-purpose software is Altium. I don't like KiCad, it feels somewhat like a toy to me, but it is still a very powerfull and good hobby (and perhaps even small professional design) toolbox.When I get to fancier RF stuff, I switch over to ADS/Momentum and HFSS, but at that point you are in the "if you have to ask you can't afford it" range of tools.

author: oldnewb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2017, 09:41:37 am
content: I'm a fan of SolveSpace (http://solvespace.com/). It's Free and open source, and runs on Linux, Mac, and Windows. It's no replacement for beasts like FreeCAD, but it is a whole lot easier to learn. The only limitation I've run into so far is its apparent inability to create helical structures (e.g., screw threads).
Recommendation for a component stock database? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: BreakingOhmsLaw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2022, 08:38:27 pm
content: Hi everybody.I am many of you know the situation: You order a part for a project or a repair and once it arrives you find out you had it all along, sitting in one of the 500 little drawers on your wall.Well, I've been thinking about doing an inventory on my stock of IC's to end that.Can anyone recommend a freeware/open source software that does just basic stock keeping? I would be preferring to install in on a NAS and access it through a browser.If anyone is running something like that, I'd appreciate your input.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2022, 09:13:27 pm
content: I use a simple text file with a list of parts. Works perfectly and does not need installation.

author: BreakingOhmsLaw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2022, 09:41:27 pm
content: Looking at PartKeepr right now, but it's not playing nicely with my Synology NAS.
Recommendation for a dual UART bridge? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: blueskull
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2016, 06:28:17 am
content: As the title suggests, is there any good SMALL packaged USB to dual UART bridge chips?I'm looking for a 2mm*3mm or 3mm*4mm DFN package or similar. I currently know CP2105 can do the job, but 4mm*4mm is a big large for what I want it to be.The UART bridge is used to bring out both MCU and DSP's UART port for debugging, eTrimming and online out of band monitoring purpose. Thanks in advance.

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2016, 08:02:51 am
content: An STM32 in a WLCSP package?Such as this:http://www.st.com/content/ccc/resource/technical/document/datasheet/dc/d6/6d/24/86/2a/40/d3/DM00108217.pdf/files/DM00108217.pdf/jcr:content/translations/en.DM00108217.pdfSized 2.596 x 2.868 mm

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2016, 02:37:34 am
content: If you have quantity and machinery to die solder you can tryCP2105 diediesales@silabs.com.
Recommendation for a linear bench power supply under 150$ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: drakejest
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 10:44:26 pm
content: I am thinking of treating myself to a bench power supply, it about time, i had so many situations that would have made things easier if i had a bench power supply. Anybody can recommend a quality power supply that cost around 150$Features im interested inLinear Type30volts and 3Amp atleast1milliamps accuracy on current limiting and detection

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 10:53:17 pm
content: The Korad KA3005P or -D model. Discussed widely on these forums.

author: drakejest
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 02:36:16 am
content: Quote from: ledtester on September 19, 2021, 10:53:17 pmThat really is some cheap and well reviewed product. Do you know what the usb/serial port at the back does?

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 04:50:38 am
content: Quote from: drakejest on September 20, 2021, 02:36:16 amIt allows you to control the power supply from a computer. Very useful for automated testing, for instance.

author: drakejest
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 03:44:28 pm
content: Quote from: ledtester on September 20, 2021, 04:50:38 amthats is really cool, this thing is already 10 years old are there newer revisions to this?

author: voltsandjolts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 03:52:14 pm
content: What is not cool is reports of this Korad PSU overshooting at turn on andcausing damage to your attached devices.

author: bjbb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 04:19:03 pm
content: "What is not cool is reports of this Korad PSU overshooting at turn on and causing damage to your attached devices."Yep, we looked at these, and similar, models when searching for lab PSUs for the school lab we were building. Would not trust this type of stuff with my students.In general, the performance (or lack thereof) of anything under 300 USD was the reason we took a week to design and build them ourselves. Although we did find a few good units (mostly HP stuff) on flea-bay for under 300 USD, we required 12 units of the same model and could not get that quantity unless we bought new expensive units.