hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Sabtronics 2010A DMM service - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Anders
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2018, 10:39:51 pm
content: Hi,Looking for schematic, manual and calibration instructions for a vintage Sabtronics 2010A DMM.Thanks

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 02, 2018, 06:07:15 am
content: Don't know how much difference there is from a 2000 model to 2010A. Maybe they share the same design;http://www.steampoweredradio.com/pdf/sabtronics/sabtronics%20model%202000%20digital%20multimeter.pdf

author: Anders
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2018, 08:19:29 am
content: Hi,Thanks for the effort.There are some similarities but the 2010A is the "new" version. The 2010A has fewer trimmers, a different DC-DC converter and a 10A range on a separate jack.Attaching image of my unit.

author: Anders
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2018, 04:53:17 pm
content: It appears to be rare model, all I can find is a few external images.Any ideas where to look for information on Sabtronics 2010A DMM?Thanks.

author: tonyalbus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2020, 07:00:39 pm
content: Quote from: Anders on September 03, 2018, 04:53:17 pmHi have you find the information? i have the same?Tony
TESTER SAEHAN ST-303 diagram - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Ghoghnoos
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 03, 2022, 10:17:41 am
content: Hello. If anyone has an ST-303TRA analog multimeter circuit diagram, load it.In fact, one of its resistors is burned and I want to replace it, but the amount is not known

author: BreakingOhmsLaw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2022, 01:36:50 pm
content: They have a customer forum, you might try and ask there:http://saehantester.co.kr/home/04_sub/02_sub.html

author: Ghoghnoos
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 03, 2022, 08:23:15 pm
content: thank you so much
Safe-T-Check MKD tester - service manual needed - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: NOON Design
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2025, 04:46:46 am
content: I've recently picked up an old ex-Telecom Safe-T-Check MKD tester, basically an old PAT made in Australia. User manual is here.https://www.isurplus.com.au/manuals/Trio%20SafeTcheck%20MkD%20User%20Manual.pdfI've managed to get it to start up and attempt to test things by tracking down a shorted tantalum on the main board. It's not passing equipment I know is good though and I assume it's well out of calibration. I don't want to do any official testing and tagging with it, just some basic safety testing on things I'm building and repairing mostly for myself, I have access to a proper PAT when required.It looks like these were pretty common in Australia in the late 80s - 90s, surely someone must have a service manual or calibration instructions lying around?!

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2025, 07:15:14 am
content: My former business sold and serviced the Safe T Check products.They were built in South Australia by Trio Electric which later became Trio Smartcal.

author: NOON Design
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2025, 07:23:25 am
content: Any idea where to track down a service manual or calibration procedures? Or do you remember how to do it?

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2025, 06:46:00 am
content: What State do you live in?Try this;https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/trio-test-measurement-is-moving/

author: NOON Design
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2025, 06:56:47 am
content: I'm in Victoria.Triotest website now redirects tohttps://www.ipd.com.auso I assume they've been bought out by someone big. Can't see any mention of test gear on that site.

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2025, 05:16:12 am
content: There was never a Service Manual for the MKD.The manufacturer was always very protective re design info.We had a few exchange PCB's and had to return any faulty ones to the manufacturer for repair.They were a pretty rugged unit and I don't remember many electronic issues. Most damage was caused by rough handling.Is the analogue meter OK in yours?ie...can you see the pointer move if flick the MKD sideways?https://trisan.com.au/products/portable-appliance-testers/mkc-d/

author: NOON Design
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2025, 05:46:57 am
content: Yes, meter is fine on mine. It's booting up and doing the expected things (meter moves, LEDs light up, responds to buttons) but it's not passing items that I know are good, so I suspect the calibration is out. There's a bunch of trimpots inside but I don't know where to start with them.Thanks for the link!

author: NOON Design
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2025, 11:29:25 pm
content: I've had an email conversation with Trisan and the conclusion is "The tester was discontinued manufacturing around 2002.There was a 15 year support & calibration, documents no longer held or support offered due to the age."
Safe testing using a DMM - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2023, 02:09:46 pm
content: Ok... So a very basic question...I have a digital multimeter (let's say it is a AN8008 since that is the nearest)... I have an old IC that I suspect has two pins internally wired together. The IC can be removed and placed on the bench. The IC is pretty much irreplaceable due to its age and rarity so I want to be careful.Would I use continuity mode? Or Diode mode to test? If I got the wires in the wrong polarity (I have no idea of the real definition of which pin is which) which .mode would I use?I assume both modes will require some current to flow since otherwise they couldn't measure anything.A simple explanation of DMM modes would be appreciated.Thanks!

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2023, 02:44:44 pm
content: Diode and continuity mode are pretty similar. With one of may meters it is actually just one mode - get the beep if the diode measures less than some 50 mV or so.Usually the test current is on the order of 1 mA. It can be a fixed current or just a resistor to the supply. The details depend on the meter.The diode mode displays the voltage (usually mV) with the given testcurrent.The continuity mode beeps below a certain voltage - what is shown could be the voltage as well, or the resistance or some arbitrary scale. This could be the same, as 1 mV is what one gets from 1 ohm and 1 mA.Many chips are OK with 1 mA in either direction. There may be a few exceptions, but not many. The larger danger is likely from ESD.

author: TomKatt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2023, 03:04:52 pm
content: Quote from: Kleinstein on February 23, 2023, 02:44:44 pmYeah... I'd definitely be using all my ESD gear working on any unobtanium parts. It seems like older parts are more sensitive to newer ones in that regard.
Saleae Logic Pro 8 Regulator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: boyraz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 12, 2025, 11:07:11 am
content: Hi,If anyone out there also has a Salee Logic Pro 8 would it be too much to ask for a voltage reading here?Trying to repair a faulty one.Also if anyone can identify this IC that would be cool too.It's a 5 ball BGA and probably a switch-mode voltage reg.Marking looks like is Line1= 23 Line2= CThere are four of them, however others don't work without it.Thanks a lot!

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2025, 11:16:40 am
content: no promises i have one at my job ill try to put my hand on it and open itdang its the red one loll sorry

author: jmag999
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2025, 11:36:15 am
content: I did some searching and I think it's LM3671TLX-1.2/NOPB. The C marking lines up with the datasheet, and I found a picture of another variant where the markings look very similar:https://www.tme.com/us/en-us/details/lm3671tlx-adj_nopb/voltage-regulators-dc-dc-circuits/texas-instruments/?brutto=1&currency=USD&gQT=2So my guess is that it should be 1.2V.

author: __greg__
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 12, 2025, 02:11:36 pm
content: Also: Vccint voltage for Spartan6 is 1.2V...
Salvaging a partially broken Kindle Paper - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ker2x
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2019, 10:06:11 am
content: Friendly greetings !I have a broken Kindle Paper, everything works except the tactile part of the screen.Therefore, it's unuseable.The e-ink screen is working.i can provide photography of the inner part if needed.Any tought on the repairability of the tactile part ?Any tought on the salvagability of the e-ink screen ? (eg : to use with an fpga)thank you.
Salvaging components from an intermittent PBC.  Never/Maybe/Always? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: paul8f
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2019, 01:09:20 pm
content: Trying to diagnose a problem on a new board lately. On average, in ten iterations of the test script it will fail just once. Difficult to pinpoint the fault. Temperature cycling, voltage margining and board vibration/flexing reveal nothing. Power rails look clean, and oscillators are stable. Problem is hardware, not software/firmware. Don't think there are any pressure-sensitive ICs or leaky caps etc.Because it's intermittent, this should go straight onto the scrap heap. On the other hand, if it was actually a hard fail but BER, then it could be used as a doner unit for repairing other devices with certain components salvaged.So, just wondering is there any rule of thumb for saving components from a scrapped intermittent board? - Never ever, only re-use passives, re-use basic discrete silicon components but only after thorough component-level tests?Interested to hear what people think, or experience you've had. What's the probability of transferring the original intermittent fault to another board?

author: ogden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2019, 01:27:30 pm
content: Quote from: paul8f on July 06, 2019, 01:09:20 pmIt depends on so many variables that it is impossible question, especially when cost of the board/product are *not* provided. Usually you just repair board - obviously when it is economically feasible. If you can't fix it - scrap it. Rarely you take off some expensive component when you know it is 100% operational and can be reused for repairs of other boards. For example LCD or power supply module.

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2019, 01:30:11 pm
content: Hard to guess without the details ..you said : SCRIPT . I will assume a motherboard.Likely you have memory chips. TOP of the list. faulty memoryor wrong memory specs kinda...I have a BOX FULL of crappy DDR modules...Which I would like to test... but I refuse to mount wholeMOBOs for the sake of probing crappy DDR modules..I wonder if someone somewhere already developed a DDRtester... cheap and easy like EPROM testers..but DDRs are more tricky and way fast than EPROMsPaul

author: paul8f
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2019, 06:29:51 pm
content: Quote from: PKTKS on July 06, 2019, 01:30:11 pmJust a few more details here.... No, it's not a motherboard. It's a small board worth around €100-€120, mainly housing DACs, a peltier device control unit, and a precision current monitor. Relatively cheap board, but it's only a sub-assembly to a larger unit worth many times it's own value.Lots of op-amps, a multiplexer, bi-polar transistors and the usual mix of diodes, resistors, inductors and capacitors. Hard to decide what's safe to salvage (if anything...)

author: paul8f
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2019, 06:39:35 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on July 07, 2019, 06:35:35 pmMade by an external CM. Good suggestion though!
SAMLEX SEC1223 switching supply emitting intense RF sweeping carrier at 271kHz - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: wb0gaz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2021, 04:27:15 pm
content: I've had a SAMLEX SEC 1223 switching 12V (23A rated) dc power supply as my main ham station power supply for some years; it's always worked well. Last night while operating on the air, I noticed a string of sweeping carriers appearing every 20 kHz or so; by sweeping, I mean that it is a carrier that sweeps across a few kHz, about 10 times per second, with this pattern repeating across the RF spectrum. I eventually tracked it down to this power supply, with the strongest signal at 271 kHz (as in it's easily detected with a hand-held Yaesu VR500 with no antenna attached at all, pins it's S meter with any antenna attached to the Yaesu even with the DC output disconnected, and is audible over a radius of several hundred feet with a trivial antenna on the VR500, when the supply's output is attached to the station DC wiring). I've taken the supply out of service.I don't suspect the design of the Samlex SEC1223 - I bought it new, it has worked very well over the years with never any indication of noise generation (this or any other type of noise.) The problem appeared somewhere in the last couple of weeks (first noticed last night) and was not cured by power cycling the power supply.I've not done switching power supply repair or troubleshooting in the past, however, this is either a fix or discard situation, and I'd like to attempt fix as it would be a good learning experience and the schematic was found online (and is attached, should appear at the end of this posting; if not it can be found online.) I do have experience working around AC-powered equipment from a safety perspective.Any getting-started advice re this sort of issue?Thanks very much!

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2021, 09:21:09 pm
content: Does your unit have the RFI mod? Maybe it's failed.Apparently, the SEC1223 has a bad reputation for being noisy and various users added an RFI filter on the output. I also saw a note that Samlex added a similar filter around 2017.I've also attached a redrawn schematic that I found.

author: wb0gaz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2021, 09:50:13 pm
content: Thanks, this unit is far older than 2017; I'll look inside.Thanks for the additional data.Dave

author: TheMG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2021, 10:27:43 pm
content: If the power supply has recently gotten a lot noisier than it used to be, I would thoroughly check all the electrolytic caps. Caps going bad in an SMPS, particularly the output filter caps, can cause a dramatic increase in EMI.
Sampo SS2020 Power supply problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: MurrayT
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 28, 2019, 03:13:57 am
content: Hi All. I have an Sampo SS2020 Oscilloscope that has a large downward pulses at 100Hz on the 140V and 260V lines. The voltages read low ie 140 reads about 110 and the spikes go down from 110 by about 30V on the 140V line. The spike shape is not a sharp one but the like the lower 10% negative portion of a sine wave, the bottom part is sort of rounded. It is definitely a spike and not the usual ripple seen on power rails on other devices. The best I could do so far is, I have checked all the"R"s and a simple check of the "C"s (ie continuity test shows a rising voltage). The bridge rectifiers check OK with a multimeter diode tester. Seems to me it might be electrolytic ESR problems BUT the fault came on suddenly. Any suggestion gratefully received.

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2019, 08:02:32 am
content: Most probably some of the larger capacitors on the power supply are bad.Your method for testing them is not telling you enough.
Samson servo 500, clip light on - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Vicus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2023, 12:06:57 pm
content: I'm struggling with an amplifier model servo 500 by Samson. It came in with clip of one channel on and the protection led on. The "protection" problem was due to a burned resistor (too low in power rating) but the clip light is on due to an dc voltage on the output. The schematic can be found here:https://elektrotanya.com/samson_audio_servo_550_130w_stereo_pa_sch.pdf/download.htmlwitch is at 95% identical.Now I think that is normal that the input differential keep (with the integrator, look at the opamp) the output dc offset near zero. What I don't think it's normal is that the clip light stay on. The theory is that if the difference from the output signal and the input signal is to high (aka distortion) the clip light came on.Correct me if I'm wrong, the input stage is a symmetrical differential driven by a current sink eatch one. So if one of the two transistor pair conduct more current the other lower so that the sum of the stage is costant. Right? Now i did measure that the upper stage a have 2.0 and 1.3 V on the 1k resistor but in the lower pair i have valure very close like 1.43 and 1.45 (voltage vary with temperature). I check every resistor and they read fine. I disconnect the integrator and sam thing but with more dc offset at the output. Output bias is ok, every stage is in linear region. In my case the upper NPN pair is discete and the lower PNP pair is the same package.Some idea?Thanks, a lot.
Samsung 32" curved ,garbled image only at cold start. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jonsig
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2022, 11:03:32 pm
content: Good day, fellow EET´s and repair affectinatos !I have strange problem with 32" inch curved samsung monitor i got for free. (LC32HG70QQUXEN) and displays are not my stongest field.Symptoms:After the monitor is plugged in, the following is displayed.1.Garbled image,2.Those wide vertical segment appear one at a time with consistant interval, one after another.Then after ~3 minuets the display appears fine, and stays like that even if it´s turned off and only in standby. I need to unplug the screen for a while so the problem appears again.Work carried out:Took random test of electrolyte caps with my peak ESR+ meter , every cap tested is in "OK" range. No ESR problem just slight degradation less than 10%.Overall solder quality was good.Flex cables re-seated and dont look damaged.Im not sure what kind of failure mode i´m dealing with. Possibly BGA problem ?tips woulld be appreciated.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2022, 08:29:34 am
content: When something a couple of years old suddenly doesn't work only when cold, first thing, replace all the electrolytic capacitors with brand new ones. Don't waste time measuring the caps, just replace them.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 28, 2022, 09:12:48 am
content: Quote from: RoGeorge on April 28, 2022, 08:29:34 amExcept the chance this having anything to do with bad capacitors is close to zero. Not to say this monitor was made much later than the time when bad capacitors were a widespread issue.QuoteDon't waste your time needlessly replacing capacitors when you can easily measure ESR within circuit. The only case when you should replace caps with good ESR is when you know that particular series have problems or when other caps are bad.

author: 20Ola02
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2022, 01:46:35 pm
content: Not much of any help, but I had the same problem on a 24" curved MSI monitor. At the beginning it only took 30 sec to clear the screen of the artifacts, but after 2 years of this happening when it was cold it took anywhere from 3-5 minutes to clear the screen. Trying to find a solution on a forum I came across a thread where they said it was a common thing and had something to to with a chip, cant remember the forum

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2022, 12:36:00 am
content: This dos look like a bonding failure on one of the ribbons
Samsung 740NW - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: almamater
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2020, 11:19:58 am
content: HelloDo you think it still has a solution?A normal 17 "monitor from Samsung (SyncMaster 740nw) decided to do this:When starting there are 'ghosts' of any old image that was (that has stayed there for some time), but then it disappears and gets darker:I replaced one capacitor at the power supply. The others don't look too bad and I didn't take them off.However, and due to the symptom of the burned image that appears, I deduce that the problem is in the board that send the signal to the LCD, the processor crashed or so..!?

author: Chalcogenide
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2020, 11:38:36 am
content: First rule: check the voltages. If you see any voltage which seems suspect check capacitors and voltage regulators associated.

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2020, 11:58:56 am
content: These monitors are above the mid level service tech.They are uPs based and several "versions" evolvedin time in which some are SYNCH with SMPSsome are not and some use a crappy PFC front end.Overall results is that you need the service manualthe proper bench setup to do simultaneous checkingof the uP regenerated synch signals..Yes they are re-synched and regenerated by uPwhich in turn drives the SMPS properlyVery complex and VERY ACCURATE HIGH QUALITY imagesLast need you may have a proper program to drive thescreen with usable data.Paul

author: Manul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2020, 02:36:35 pm
content: Check all voltages on a connector and on the capacitors of the main board. If it is all good, reseat and check LCD flat flex cable on both ends and inspect LCD panel vertical and horizontal drivers. If still no good, you can try some stressing techniques. Lightly flexing the main board while observing LCD image, slightly heating with hot air and freezing with upsidedown air duster can to see if you get any response. If there is some response to thermal or machanical stressing it may be a cracked solder joint. If nothing gives result, then most probably there will be no quick or economical repair.

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2020, 02:47:35 pm
content: Quote from: Manul on April 24, 2020, 02:36:35 pmI must have been mistakenly assumed a CRT ?If so disconsider my previous comment.LCDs are not even close the hassle of a multi-synch CRTLCDs are kinda kid stuff next to those CRTs.Paul

author: almamater
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2020, 04:13:03 pm
content: Thanks for the replies! I will test the voltages, the cable and temperature stressing.
Samsung DVD Player - Tray quite slow [solved] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ThunderZed
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2024, 08:03:05 pm
content: I'd like to ask your opinion about thisSamsung DVD-P181/EDCplayer because I'd like to sell it and I'm afraid maybe its tray is too slow to open/close. Consider I've just rescued it so I don't know how it worked when it was a brand new device.Let's make a comparison between- the Philips DVD player you helped me to fix some weeks ago ->videoand- this Samsung DVD Player ->video.I've made this video after I lubricated all the plastic gears and "tracks" involved in tray movement. This time the belt is in perfect conditions so it can't be the culprit opposite to the previous Philips case.Well, its electric engine sounds quite strained/stressed to my ears in comparison with the Philips one but I could be wrong, what do you think about it and about its tray speed?

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2024, 08:21:17 pm
content: Looks fast enough to me and it is essentially the same mechanism as in the DVD drive in the PC I'm typing this on.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 01, 2024, 08:40:25 pm
content: It's quite fast actually and is you compare both videos, they both take about the same time. Also it does not sound strained, just different mechanisms.

author: ThunderZed
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 10:42:08 am
content: Thanks for your answersJust an OT curiosity about this player: as you can see by the attachment there's no way to manually open the tray unlocking it from the bottom, opposite to the previous Philips player; so does this mean it's impossible to rescue a DVD inside this player if the tray fails to open but dismantling it as I've done this time?
Samsung DVD+VHS combo player read problem (DVD-VR355) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: abhi1981
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 03:13:30 pm
content: Just got this Samsung DVD-VR355. It doesn't read any discs the normal way.The spindle motor spins erratically. It starts spinning properly when tapped in the center.Once it starts spinning, then it works perfectly and will play both CDs and DVDs.Could the spindle motor be bad or is there something wrong with the circuit?Lubricating the motor didn't help.https://youtu.be/iKrmdggu_8Y?si=Uktqrlhko2zx_KY9The main board of the DVD player had signs of corrosion near and below the capacitors. Whatever it was, it cleaned off without a trace. Nevertheless, I changed the capacitors.Still no difference.
Samsung Expert NP350XBE-XD1BR Bios Update - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Andre1070
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 18, 2024, 06:35:42 am
content: After a very arduous and time-consuming hunt for ways to download and extract a Samsung BIOS, I've ended up with a .cap file. Now, apparently I can just flash this like I would any other BIOS file. But how? Rufus, the only BIOS flasher I can seem to find, doesn't recognize it...Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2024, 07:23:14 am
content: rufusits an iso windows usb boot drive maker / builder ?

author: Andre1070
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 18, 2024, 01:53:45 pm
content: Yes, and the only one I was able to find online. It was also recommended to me by a tech-savvy friend of mine. But again, it doesn't seem able to use this file. Any other software recommendations?
Samsung front-load wash machine On/Off button cannot  get on supposedly - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: marhuum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2025, 09:32:53 am
content: Samsung front-load wash machine On/Off button now could get contacts ie. pressing it is toggling On/OffBut most of the time it won't get on immediately, instead it only yields weak sound sort of:tuck.. tuck.. tuckevery 2 sec in between eachand will only really get on after 9 minutes or soHas one gone through such case on similar kind of control panel system so can benefit on this here?NB:sequal ofhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/whole-glued-pcb-taking-apart/

author: indeterminate
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2025, 10:14:18 am
content: It is probably an electrolytic capacitor in the standby power supply.

author: marhuum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2025, 10:27:05 am
content: Seems every one's mind quickly, easily thinks it's the issue on filp-flop capacitor responsible for the on-off data, but how exactly troubleshoot to correctly pinpoint and fix it..

author: indeterminate
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2025, 06:42:06 am
content: The translation is difficult to follow.Yous an ESR meter to test the electrolytic capacitors in circuit.there will be one on the input and output buck converter ic
samsung galaxy note 3 charging connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: chofroa
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 06:56:05 pm
content: Hello,my smartphone samsung galaxy note 3 (2014-09) often has difficulties for charging.The connector is a usb 3.0 micro-b (mhl).I noticed that when I lift the charging cable, the connection holds. So I suspect some defection in the receptacle.I don’t find any spare part for this old smartphone.The connector shows the number Y4107DA, that I can’t find either.. Is it a pertinent idea trying to change the connector on the board or the risk of ruining the charging board is to high?. If yes, can I choose any usb 3.0 micro-b receptacle (with apparently 10 pins) or must I find for instance a ‘mhl’ model to keep the original properties ?There are some here that do not seem to be exactly similar and are presented as for hard diskhttps://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807411945205.html?]https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807411945205.html?Here I find :https://www.mouser.fr/c/connectors/usb-connectors/?mounting%20style=SMD%2FSMT&product=Micro%20USB%20Type%20B%20Connectors&standard=USB%203.02 ‘right angle’ and this one :https://www.mouser.fr/ProductDetail/Hirose-Connector/ZX360D-B-10P30?qs=4J5DPWWS9EDezzYtx6NKEg%3D%3Ddescribed here :https://www.mouser.fr/new/hirose/hirosezx360/Features• Data transmission speeds to 5Gbps• Stainless Steel shield• 1A current rating, current capacity increase to 900mA• 10,000 mating cycles• 30VAC voltage ratingBackward compatible with micro USB 2.0Applications• Small handheld devices◦ Medical equipment◦ Measuring equipment◦ MP3 players◦ NotebooksAny suggestion to solve this ?Thanks !

author: chofroa
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2025, 10:40:11 am
content: hello,last evening I plugged the phone with something under to gently lift the connector. I saw the led passing from red to yellow, then green.This morning I'm going to unplug and see the led in yellow again and the phone doesn't charge anymore.When I click on the 'menu' button, charging is ok. when the phone goes in sleeping mode, the charge stops.Setting the sleeping delay to the maximum, 30 mn, the phone does charge, without interrupting.the log provided by batterybot shows the history.If it's not a connector problem, any idea of what causes this behavior ?
Samsung Galaxy S8/S8+ battery temperature warning fix - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: poot36
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 02:55:32 am
content: If you have a Samsung Galaxy S8 or S8+ cellphone that when you plug it in to charge it shows a temperature warning symbol on the screen and does not charge then you may have a damaged NFC/wireless charging antenna cable. The problem is that the temperature sensor for the battery is also on the flex PCB with the NFC/wireless charging antenna on it and it is very easy to damage when the battery is replaced. I have not found this information online so I hope it will help someone get there phone charging again.
Samsung HWT450 Soundbar and Subwoofer Power Issue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: supra3turbo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 28, 2023, 01:05:41 pm
content: Hi All,I am repairing a sound bar for someone, they said it "stopped working" describes most faults really doesn't it.I found the mains power input to have had some trauma and the PCB to be cracked, i bridged the joints with solder and I am now getting power, it references a 3.15a fuse on the main board twice, and on another forum i was told "its the yellow rectangle" but as i have replaced a load of Rifa capacitors in the past, and it has a rating of 0.33uF and i have never seen a fuse with a Farrad rating i can only assume that it is indeed a filter cap.I replaced the yellow filter cap temporarily with one from a PC PSU, 0.22uF x2 safety cap and i got the same voltages across the board, mains at 235v and the output from the cold side of the board at 22v (caps on this side are rated at 35v) so i imagine thats somewhere close.Im running out of ideas now, the power goes from this mains board into the sound output/mini display/power volume and input select board, but it still does not come on at all, there is a certain electrical smell inside but not what i would call Rifa catastrophic death smoke smell, just warm electronics smell sort of.Any help would be greatly appreciated - Joe

author: supra3turbo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 28, 2023, 01:44:41 pm
content: Here are some pictures of the other board, also tried a usb in the port and get nothing...Im not by any means an electrical engineer, just someone who is self taught and usually fixs things, from CRTs to LCD TV's Laptops to PC's so if someone could point me in the right direction that would be great.I do also have an Mtester LCR that tests caps and resistors and stuff since my LCR multimeter was in my car along with all my other gear when it was stolen hahaThanks all

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2023, 03:28:38 pm
content: Does it have a physical "power on" button or is it totally dependent on the IR remote control?

author: supra3turbo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 28, 2023, 03:43:04 pm
content: It has a physical power on button, volume up, volume down and input button on top, a seperate daughter board with 4 momentary switches is screwed into the case with an output of 4/6 pins push fit into the board the connector for this can be seen in the 4th picture down bottom right
Samsung LCD T240 lines on display - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2020, 09:53:04 pm
content: I bought this used LCD i did not know it already has problem, when i turn it on mostly it starts with Image A, and then slowing changes to Image B, C, I opened the LCD and checked connections as in Image Inside.jpg both connection type A and B looks good,When i plugged in HDMI it start giving me perfectly good image but after 15 minutes it went like this again, after trying it happened 2/3 times again that i got perfectly good image and then after 10/15 minutes it got lines backCan someone help what could be the issue.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2020, 02:40:06 am
content: poke ribbons with a stick once lines start showing up, if screen doesnt change at all when poking its inside the glass and unfixable

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2020, 02:56:51 am
content: Thanks for reply, which ribbon cable, please refer to image inside.jpg is it marked A or B in the picture.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2020, 08:51:24 am
content: all of them, gently

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2020, 08:01:18 pm
content: Please refer to image inside.jpg if connector type B having issue how can i fix it, do i need to put some hot air? if yes what would be the suitable temperature? i added new pictures, some time some part of screen is enabled and refreshed, but some time its all good.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2020, 12:53:37 pm
content: does playing with ribbons do anything in the first place?

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2020, 10:45:50 pm
content: I did not get chance yet, but i was thinking how can i fix it if i found this issue, i have very limited space on my desk its hard for me to keep it laying down open

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2020, 02:46:59 am
content: I checked it, when i press ribbon (labeled B) in picture, image becomes clear for a while then i have to press it again, how can i fix it,Can i do hot air fix? If yes what temperature is suitableIf hot air is not solution then how else i can fix it.Thanks

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2020, 09:29:09 am
content: much older, less dense and easier to repair ribbon:but I wouldnt go near modern LCD glass with hotair, in factory and professional repair settings its done with a hotbar machine like hereFirst locate exact spot where touching fixes the picture, then try touching it up with temperature controlled soldering iron, start with 250 Celcius like the setup on the tab bonding machine (profile was set at 245C 16 seconds)

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2020, 05:38:35 pm
content: wow, i was able to fix it, thanks a lot
Samsung LE37R72B with strange fault - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: hgg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2020, 08:05:28 am
content: Hi,I have a Samsung LE37R72B with a strange fault.The image on the screen has a dark shadow in the middle.Its more apparent when the background behind the shadow is darker.I've replaced a damaged capacitor on the power board but things did not got any better.When you leave it on for a while to get hot, you can also see a couple of very faint vertical lines.When I saw the black shadow I thought that it was some kind of problem with the LCD layers, so I disassembledthe TV completely and cleaned every diffuser sheet. They were clean. The problem did not change at all after that.The vertical lines when hot might suggest the t-con board, but have you seen a t-con board fault createblack shadows like that???Thanks.

author: login
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2020, 11:46:31 pm
content: looks like a panel fault and not repairable

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2020, 01:10:16 am
content: How did it happen?Any chance it has been handled wrong and the aluminium backing to the LCD is bent and pressing the panel?

author: hgg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2020, 05:55:49 am
content: Everything was straight and flat.When I cleaned and put back all the sheets I expected the shadow to change a little bitbut it remained exactly the same. The owner told me that the shadow was slightly differenta month ago. More faint.
Samsung LS24F354FHNXZA - partially working no standby - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: vgamesx2
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2021, 08:40:54 pm
content: The monitor technically has power and even shows a display, but it's very random and will only work for at most about 30 seconds before it becomes fully dead/no power or standby again, just to be certain I've unplugged the LED backlight and display cables but that has had no effect on functionality, it runs on roughly 14v, at idle draws 0.2W and will go up to 6W or more when functioning correctly.I've identified the cause to likely be the 3.3v and 5v lines which are reading 2.8v and 3.4v, when it randomly starts working those numbers become the expected values, but I need help figuring out what the culprit is, so far I've found one bad cap that was low resistance and removing it brought to 3.19v for 3.3v and 3.8v for 5v, but I don't see any other really obvious issues nor do I know why it would randomly start working unless maybe the regulator is going bad?
Samsung Monitor MOSFET identification/equivalent - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Solvalou19
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 23, 2024, 02:28:21 am
content: HiI have a Samsung 32" CT550 LCD in which the backlight has started to fail. There are 4 LED strips each controlled by a SOT23 2N7002K Mosfet. 2 LED strips were failing, but as a precaution I replaced all 4 Mosfets.Monitor then ran correctly for around 2 minutes then something smelt hot and monitor died totally, no power, shorted input.Short was traced to a TO252 Mosfet PY8N10GR.I cannot find this exact part online apart from a listing on the TaoBao website, but they list no information for this part.The markings would indicate it is a N Channel, 100V, 8A?, probably a higher wattage one as the PCB shows that this has been getting rather warm.Any idea's for a suitable replacement?Thanks

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2024, 03:58:59 am
content: This is all I found:http://www.sourcing-semi.com/static/upload/HV-MOS/8N10GR.pdfI'm not confident, though.
Samsung Monitor Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: cpsmusic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2024, 02:59:33 am
content: Hi All,I have a faulty Samsung U28E590D computer monitor. The problem is that the monitor has an area of the screen that's showing blue rather than black. Also, in the same screen area, the white is slightly yellow. I've attached a few images that show the problem.I tried contacting a monitor repair place but they said that the repair would most likely require a new panel and so wasn't worth it. Before I send the monitor off to its final e-waste resting place I thought I'd see if it was worth repairing. The reason I'm interested in giving it a go is because a while back I repaired an LG LCD TV and the repair was very simple (T-Con board replacement). I was thinking that it could be something similar in this case.Any thoughts? Is this a fool's errand?Cheers,Chris

author: kemet2330
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 27, 2024, 10:32:20 pm
content: Had the exactly same problem, replaced T-Con board and everything worked great.

author: cpsmusic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2024, 11:24:20 pm
content: In the end I replaced the monitor. I had a feeling that it was probably something relatively simple that was the problem.Cheers!
Samsung monitor U28E590D high pitched noise - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: zybreak
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 17, 2019, 12:14:11 pm
content: HiI'm trying to get rid of a high pitched noise coming from the motherboard of my Samsung U28E590D computer monitor.The noise is there regardless of whether I have plugged in any video inputs or not (although with an input plugged in the noise does change character)Its hard to pinpoint which component is making the noise, and I would like your help to identify the components on the bord and maybe even point me in the right direction of the most probable offender.I'll attach a picture of the area of the board where the noise is coming from.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2019, 02:55:49 am
content: It's almost certainly one of those big inductors.You can roll up a piece of paper and use it as a stethoscope.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2019, 04:56:36 am
content: or plastic strawsalso listen to small smd capsfix might be as simple as a coat of lacquer
Samsung NP550P5C EC firmware + schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: poot36
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2022, 09:53:08 pm
content: I have had to change the endings of the keyboard controller (EC) firmware from bin to hex to upload them. My system had a keyboard firmware of P01AAA so I dumped the corrupted firmware from my system and then compared it to the P02AAA firmware and decided to take the first few bytes of the 02 firmware and copy it into my corrupted firmware and uploaded it and it worked, I have this one labeled EC-r-copy.hex.

author: Peabody
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2022, 10:09:58 pm
content: I don't understand what your post is about, but I have the NP550P5C-T01US with P07AAA firmware. If there's something I could copy for you, let me know. And by the way, do you think I should update to the latest firmware? I don't think I had a reason not to, except that what I had was working fine.

author: poot36
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2022, 11:26:33 pm
content: @Peabody I guess I should have been more clear in my post. These are files for the firmware that runs inside of the keyboard controller chip. I found these online on some Polish website and when I went to look for them again when I wanted try and fix my computer that would not even show a charging light due to the corrupted firmware in the keyboard controller I was unable to find the site again so I though I could not fix my system but did find the files on another computer that I had in my house that I had not powered on in some time and the files were for some reason in the recycle bin on that system. You do not need to upgrade the keyboard controller firmware unless you have issues with the keyboard, fans, temperature sensors, or battery/ power adapter charging or detection issues. If your system is operating fine don't mess with this as it requires a special cable to program the chip using a CH341A programmer and some custom flashrom software for the programmer to talk to the eeprom chip in the keyboard controller through the micro controller in the chip. This process is very slow and took almost 45 min to erase program and verify the chip.

author: Peabody
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2022, 04:26:20 am
content: Thanks for the explanation. But your main system BIOS is P08AAA? Is there any reason I shouldn't update to that version - for running Windows 7? I'm only on P07AAA now.

author: poot36
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2022, 12:32:49 am
content: @Peabody These are not bios files, they are only for the keyboard controller. The bios update you can get from the manufactures website. Some manufactures do supply a update for the keyboard controller but not many. I wanted to use the version that was as close to the original one as possible due to its low level functions.
Samsung P2770HD Monitor; Brightness Setting Goes to Max after 10 - 15 Minutes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: whirligig
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2021, 03:58:20 am
content: This Samsung Monitor/TV is used as a computer monitor. Lately I've been dimming the brightness every so often but it will lose the setting and go max brightness. Now, after dimming the monitor, it goes to full brightness in about 10 minutes. When it is dimmed, I can hear a soft tone or buzz but when it goes to full brightness it's quiet. I suspect the chopper circuit for the CFL power supply is going. Hopefully, it's just a bad cap. What do you think?Well, I checked my post from 3 years ago on Badcaps.net about another problem with this monitor where I replaced the step up transformer for the backlight. These monitors were not built to last. Well, I'll see what I can find when I open her up.

author: samnmax
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2021, 12:32:21 pm
content: Is it changing the brightness setting by itself, are you seeing the OSD brightness bar going to 100% on its own? I ask because I've seen this problem of phantom button presses on Benq and Samsung monitors before. The button switches go slightly conductive when not pressed (~5kOhm) and this is enough to trigger button presses because they cheaped out and used a single ADC line with multiple buttons to form a resistive divider.However, I think your monitor uses capacitive buttons, in which case this will not apply, but they could also be giving phantom presses somehow.

author: whirligig
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2021, 07:19:06 pm
content: Yes, it will snap back to maximum brightness by itself. I will then dim it down and minutes later, it will brighten up by itself. The OSD will show 100% at max brightness. Hmmm, I'll see if this uses capacitive buttons or a resistive voltage divider.I was thinking a bad cap in a PWM circuit that's chopping the voltage, but this should be easy to check.