Custom front panel engraved switch markers? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Chris Wilson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2015, 02:06:14 pm
content: Does anyone do professional custom front panel switch ID markers? Stick on tape markers look tacky, thinking more of a custom engraved marker, anyone know of a supplier please? I am in the UK, thanks.

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 03, 2015, 03:10:39 pm
content: Best, easiest, most professional front panels ever!http://www.schaeffer-ag.de/en/Amazing what you can do with their software, prices very reasonable too.

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 03, 2015, 03:21:38 pm
content: Or most local trophy centres do a very quick and cheap service where they take a PDF from you and an hour later give you a nice silver and black anodised aluminium plate back.

author: Chris Wilson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2015, 03:28:32 pm
content: Hi, thanks for the replies, I have already made, milled, drilled and engine turned an aluminium front panel, I just fancy going the extra mile and having some nice switch ID's on it. The trophy plaque idea is a great one, I shall look into that. Next time I may take the easy way out and get one of those ready done panels! Much appreciated!

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2015, 04:03:12 pm
content: my take is to use laser-cut plastic panels and to etch in the lettering. some like to etch the lettering on the front of the panel (I do) while others like to reverse-image the text and print it behind semi-transparent plastic, thus protecting the letters that were etched.I infill my lettering. I will set the laser cutter power somewhat high, make a few passes and even raise the laser bed up a bit and repeat the raster operation to burn the letters into the plastic.leave the mask paper on the plastic as you cut.blow out the debris from the raster cut lettering. then, my secret method is to take acrylic white paint, dab some over the lettering and let it seep inside the voids. PUSH it into the voids with a rubber glove/finger (works best for me). the paint I use is somewhat heavy and wants to bubble so I press and force it into the voids. let it dry for 5 minutes and peel the masking paper off (the stuff that comes on plexiglass). that masking helps you avoid getting the paint on the plastic where there is no lettering.final process is also manual; while its still drying, you can use your finger nail to flick-off any over-run paint or messy areas. ungloved hands work well here as you can wipe across the plastic with your fingers, pick up surface paint while leaving the paint into the voids. hard to explain but if you try it, you'll 'get it'.the main secret is to FORCE the paint into the voids by pressing down, not just letting gravity work. gravity causes bubbles in thick paint, but pressing the paint with fingers works well for me.here's what my panels can look like once that process is done:even 'graphics' like my battery icon or the round boxes that group ports or buttons together, visually, can be done this way.note, this process works really well if you use the shiny plexiglass. if you use matte style, its much harder since overspill on the non-smooth surface is nearly impossible to fully clean up after. the shiny plastic surfaces does not want to hold onto the paint and so you can remove it with your fingers (like a sponge) or fingernail (rub fingernail over lettering slightly, so that any paint NOT in the void gets flicked off near the edges of the letters).long post - but hope it helped give some new ideas on how to cheaply do panel labeling. and since its in-filled ink, it does not rub off. holds up pretty well, in fact.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2015, 04:45:10 pm
content: To get the paint in use a window squeegee, as the rubber wiper removes the paint very well while pushing it in. If you get a screen printers squeegee it works even better, using either printing ink ( messy and expensive, but available in nice pantone colours) or a good quality acrylic wall paint, preferably an exterior use one, which can also be tinted to assorted colours.

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2015, 04:58:08 pm
content: the reason I use my fingers is that I am less likely to drag some dust particle across the very shiny and scratch-loving acrylic. a squeegee would work but you can't get the same level of 'feel' as you would with your finger.I simply put on some rubber gloves, apply drops of white paint to my fingertip and fingerpaint (lol) onto the lettering voids. one pass to get it going, then another to literally push it in using the circle of my finger tip and just enough pressure to force it in and yet not break the plastic. very experiencial; have to try it to really see what I'm saying.using a lighter weight paint might make my life easierbut I used what I found at a craft/hobby store and so far, its been holding up pretty well.fwiw, this is what I use:http://www.amazon.com/Craft-Smart-Acrylic-Fl-oz-Bottle/dp/B00OL1ZF0E/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1441299433&sr=8-9&keywords=craft+smart+acrylic+paint

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2015, 04:59:51 pm
content: oh, and this paint is water soluable, which means cleanup is not very hard. if I had let some paint dry too long, a wet paper towel will pickup overspilled paint easily enough as long as its not on a rough or matte surface.of course, you do want to avoid getting the lettering wet, so this is not going to be great for outdoors style projects

author: Chris Wilson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2015, 09:59:15 am
content: All good stuff, thanks for all the ideas and usage guides!

author: Moriniman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2015, 10:19:09 am
content: A trick we were using over 20 years ago was to print (laser or inkjet) in reverse on transparencies, then stick it on with spraymount.With the ink on the back side of the film it's protected and very hard wearing.