Repair of Ryobi BCL14181H Li-Ion charger - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: WaynesWorld
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2020, 10:42:27 am
content: I was recently given this non working charger.It has been 25 years since I did my AD Electronics and about as long since I did anything with it, and for some reason my interest in electronics has been rekindled recently and I'm absorbing anything I can learn. Dave's Fundamental Fridays and repair videos are great sustenance.The process so far...Circuit seems to be rectifying on at the 240v level. Does this mean its a Switch mode?Power on - No lights. Not chargingOpen upGeneral look around - nothing immediately obviousCheck fuse - Open circuitReplace fuse - fuse blewFound all 4 rectifier diodes short circuitReplaced all 4Powered on - blew fuse and 2 of the diodesLooked some more and found NTC blown and 0.47R on DC side blown to high resistance (edit - 0.43Ohm)Here is the top and bottom of the board showing the above mentioned components.I have tested pretty much all the diodes including zeners on the bottom. I can't read the chip numbers.Is there anything else I should check or test and is there something else likely to have caused these devices to fail?Can the NTC be substituted for something else as a temp fix?

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2020, 02:33:58 pm
content: if the fuse has blown check the transistor on the dissipator plate, could / should be an mosfet, remove it and check for shorts between the pins

author: WaynesWorld
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 12:04:27 am
content: You're on the money. Shortly after posting, I traced the resistor to the Source of the ndf04n60zh on the heatsink. The D and S were shorted. The tranny seems to test OK across each coil and all the local diodes and capacitors test good to. Anything else I should look for?This MOSFET seems to be unavailable in Australia. 3 months via Aliexpress, so hoping for a local substitute.

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 04:43:48 am
content: Do I see a crack on that IC?

author: WaynesWorld
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 05:02:59 am
content: I did notice that but put it down to just a physical nick, but you could be right. I've taken the best photo I can with my rubbish OPPO phone using Open Camera, highest res, macro focus, zoomed, and cropped to keep the file size down. I don't have a decent magnifying glass to read the part number properly. Maybe someone recognises the number from what's visible?

author: Pete66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 06:04:58 am
content: That's a Mosfet and it looks like it is blown. Measure to see if it is shorted.If its blown I think its this one:9565bghhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-AP9565BGH-9565BGH-TO252/254599070987?hash=item3b4749850b:g:6tgAAOSwal5YMUmh

author: WaynesWorld
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 07:21:35 am
content: Its completely open circuit between all legs in all directions on Ohms and Diode test. Safe bet its F*$%ed. I might see what its connected to and do some tests.

author: WaynesWorld
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 07:38:28 am
content: I spoke to soon. I retested and got 2.4v across S-G. I lifted one side of the Zener and it is OC both ways. I still got the 2.4v across S-G. What does this say about the MOSFET? edit: according to the datasheet, I should at least get 0.6v across D-S but that's OC so I'm guessing dead.How do I work out the zener value? Too small for me to see.

author: Pete66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 01:20:43 pm
content: I found this thread:https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/261271/Why+doesn%27t+my+charger+workAccording to them it is an 18V Zener

author: WaynesWorld
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 10:50:02 pm
content: Thank you. I did come across that page a few days ago, before I had discovered all the destruction, so dismissed it, and didn't scroll down enough to see all the responses. Now though, I think it will be a wealth of info. I'll spend some time collating the info and see what I need to test and order. Hopefully those schematics will be useful to.They talk about how rubbish the circuit is and that it has no protection. Is there any straight forward mods I can do to improve it's longevity? Or do I just order a bunch of each part and replace them every time it fails?

author: Pete66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2020, 04:47:31 am
content: I would replace with a more powerful Mosfet. The 9565bgh can handle -40V and -17A.I would use a P-channel Mosfet that can handle more current.

author: WaynesWorld
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2020, 08:03:43 am
content: Good advice. I'm also going to add a piece of aluminium as a heat sink. For normal operation charging 18v batteries that should be ample, but I guess its the abnormal situations due to the crappy design that causes the issues.I'd like to identify and test PC1 as its right in the mix. Its a 4 leg package and I don't know what it is. The number looks to be something like L1343. Any clue?What's sources are there for these MOSFETS in Australia?

author: orbanp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2020, 12:33:34 pm
content: While you are at it, you might want to replace that electrolytic capacitor, on the top of the board, next to the diodes. The top seems to be bulging a bit.Regards, Peter

author: WaynesWorld
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2020, 02:51:52 pm
content: That one tested OK. It's just the way the light reflects off the prisms in each quadrant.

author: Pete66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2020, 05:10:07 pm
content: PC1 is an optocoupler. It's for feedback from secondary to primary.

author: WaynesWorld
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2020, 02:14:43 am
content: Any clue on the part number so I can find a data sheet for test and replacement if I need?I removed it from the board and did the 2 x multi meter diode test and it seemed to work OK, so I put it back in.I'm looking for replacements for the NDF04N60ZH and 9565bgh.For the NDF04N60ZHMouser suggests the FDPF5N60NZ as a 'similar product' however, the 5N has a lower continuous and pulsed drain current, and the zeners are opposite.The NDF04N60ZH seems to have a fancy structure with the diode across the S-D and opposing zeners across the G-S. Is there a special term or technology type, search term etc for this setup? Or does it not really matter? I can't find info or videos to explain the purpose and characteristics of these extras.The 9565bgh is not listed on Mouser. Looks like the FDD4685 is the choice replacement with more than double the Pd and Current Dains.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2020, 11:42:37 am
content: Quote from: WaynesWorld on September 05, 2020, 08:03:43 amBe very careful that you don't compromise primary to secondary side safety clearances if adding metalwork inside a Class II product. Anything that reduces the clearance below 8mm is going to be a problem - especially for something like a drill charger that might get rough treatment.

author: WaynesWorld
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2020, 12:25:36 pm
content: For sure Gyro. I was simply going to glue a small square piece of flat aluminium (say 20mmx20mm) to it using a thermal glue of some sort, and then hot melt glue around the BAT+ pad. Gotta find suitable replacements for the components first though.I just used Mouser to narrow down by type and package and interestingly, returned only 1 result...SiHA6N80AEhttps://au.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Discrete-Semiconductors/Transistors/MOSFET/_/N-ax1sf?P=1z0z63xZ1z0y3zrZ1y95l6eZ1z0xzzgZ1yzxnagIt seems to have the same internal structure and better current and voltage specs, so looks like a winner. The only spec less is the 'Pulsed drain current' which is half that of the original (20A -> 10A). Is this an issue?

author: thehwguy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 23, 2021, 02:34:36 pm
content: I too have a RYOBI BCL14181H dual chemistry charger and have noted a failure of D9 (short) and Q2 (MOSFET short). What is surprising is BOTH D3 & D9 (HBR5200) are connected in parallel to presumably share the charging current load of 1.8A. In my book it this is a "poor" design as it is likely that one of the parallel diodes will conduct the majority of the current load rather than having an equal current split. Another interesting point is that D3 & D9 are shrouded in yellow glue which will hamper the heat dissipation.

author: GraemeG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2022, 09:45:59 am
content: I realise that this is an old thread and hasn't been updated for more than a year but I think it makes more sense to continue this one rather than start a new topic.As with many of the other posters, I have a BCL14181H charger that has failed. Mine has S/N 005624 and was made in week 4 of 2014. Until recently it has been working perfectly but now totally dead.Inside it was pretty obvious that Q2 (P-Ch MOSFET 9565) was cracked open and smoked! Further testing found one of the D3/D9 diode pair shorted and the main switching regulator Q1 (N-CH MOSFET NDF04N60ZH) open circuit. I have tested many other components, mostly in circuit, but I don't think anything else has failed. I have attached a couple of sections of the circuit diagram as far as I have been able to trace.I am waiting on parts to be arrive from China so I don't yet know how successful this repair will be but I thought it worth documenting as I go.I chose the IRFR5305 (Edit: corrected this part number) as a replacement for the 9565, it has a higher Vdss at 55V vs 40 and a higher Id of 31A vs 17A. From eBay I found 10 pieces including shipping for USD4.33 to Australia.The D3/D9 diodes often seem to fail and in looking for a higher rated diode decided to go with the MBR20200CT, a pair of diodes in a single TO-220 package. I will mount these as a parallel pair like the originals but even individually these diodes have higher ratings at 20A vs 5A for the original MBR5200 and the same Vreverse of 200V. Another 10 pieces for USD3.85 including shipping.For the NDF04N60Z I stayed with the original part and ordered 10 pieces for USD12.43 delivered.I have a few tips for troubleshooting these units so there will be more posts to follow and I'll let you know how it goes when the replacement parts arrive.

author: GraemeG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2023, 02:19:37 am
content: Before I ordered parts I wanted to be fairly confident that there were no more failed components on the board. The most likely candidates are components connected to or close to the failed parts that have already been found.Checking around Q2 it was easy enough to meter R11, R12 and ZD2 in circuit. I didn't check the zener in detail but it is still acting as a diode so it is probably still a functional zener. I used a simple multimeter diode test to check it forward and reverse. The multimeter is not a high enough voltage for the zener to conduct so it shows as open circuit in the reverse direction just like a normal diode.I was able to use 2 multimeters in their diode test modes to check the FET Q4. I attached both meter negative (black) leads to the BAT- terminal which is connected to the Source of Q4. The positive (red) lead of one meter was then connected to the Drain or to R12 or the empty Gate terminal of Q2. Note that Q2 is still removed from the board. This meter should show no conduction/connection through Q4. Then the positive (red) lead of the second meter is touched to the Gate of Q4 and the first meter should show Q4 is now conducting. Removing the meter from the Gate should show Q4 open circuit again. One catch I have found is that one of my meters applies 1.5V in diode test mode while the other applies 2.5V. The 1.5V meter is not always high enough to drive the gate of a FET so I use this one across Drain-Source and the 2.5V meter on the gate.I used a similar approach around Q1, metering the various resistors and diodes mostly showed reasonable values. One exception is D1. The low value resistors R3 22 ohms and R4 150 ohms make it difficult to test this one in circuit. It appeared short circuited so I removed it only to find it is working just fine. That's when I realised R3 and R4 were causing the problem. I used the 2 multimeters again to confirm the opto isolator PC1 was functional. Again I had to use the higher voltage meter to drive the diode and the lower voltage unit worked fine on the transistor side.My last concern was with IC1. This IC drives the gate of Q1 and if the IC is dead and the output driven high it would simply turn Q1 hard on and probably destroy it again. IC1 needs at least 13-14V minimum to start up and operate. To give some level of protection I set my bench supply to 18V and connected it through a 2K7 resistor (2700 ohms but not critical) to EC2, the 10uF electrolytic capacitor that supplies Vcc to IC1. In the attached screen capture from the oscilloscope IC1_Vcc+output_to_Q1_gate.jpg you can see the green Vcc trace increases to about 14V then the IC starts up and outputs a square wave for about 50mS then shuts down. This is normal protection behaviour of the IC. Q1 is out of the circuit so the transformer is not driven and the IC has not detected any feedback on pin 2 from the opto isolator. We can confirm that in the screen capture IC1_Vcc+pin2_Comp_Feedback.jpg. The pin is sitting at 5V from the internal bias supply. The final screen capture IC1_output_to_Q1_gate.jpg is a closer view of the output pulse train that will drive Q1. The output looks good and is running at about 65.8kHz which is pretty close to the nominal 68kHz that a 100K R1 resistor on pin3 should produce.So it all looks good and now all I need are the replacement parts. I will have to be patient, I think the bits are still a couple of weeks away...

author: Greybeard
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2023, 09:19:16 am
content: If anybody needs schematic, see attachment.I found it in the www some time ago, when I repaired my charger.Defective parts of my charger:D3 or D9 (shorted)Power MOSFET Q2 (shorted, case cracked)

author: GraemeG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2023, 10:38:07 pm
content: Thanks very much Greybeard! I had not seen that circuit before. There are slight differences with my unit, there are a few differences in component numbers and I also have a 20K resistor from G to S of Q1 on mine. But mostly it seems to match up so far.I'm still waiting for parts and have a quiet day today so I plan to try powering up the 5V regulator and see what happens on that side of the circuit. I expect the controller should show some sign of life.

author: GraemeG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2023, 07:14:08 am
content: To see if I could test any more of the circuit I supplied 8V from my bench power supply to the input of IC4 the 5V regulator. As expected it supplied 5V on the output and the red LED turned on. This is the correct indication for a charger with no battery connected so it's a good sign!Everything else seemed to be effectively shut down. All the outputs of the quad op amp IC2 were low but I used a 100K resistor from the 5V rail and carefully probed each of the op amp + inputs. This was enough to drive the output high except for IC2C. On pin 10 there is a 1K resistor to ground so I grabbed a handy 4K7 resistor in place of the 100K to toggle the output. Now I know all four op amps are still working.I was able to use the same method to check Q3, Q6 and Q9 although they had all previously measured ok in circuit. For bipolar transistors as long as I can measure 2 diode junctions (base-emitter and base-collector) in circuit using a multimeter then it's likely the transistor is still ok. But switching them on and off while powered up in circuit pretty much guarantees they are still functional.So I think that is it for the testing until the replacement parts arrive.

author: GraemeG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2023, 10:58:18 pm
content: I am still waiting on the MBR20200CT diodes but the NDF04N60ZH and IRFR5305 (Edit: corrected this part number) MOSFETs have arrived.It turns out that the original NDF04N60 has not failed!I discovered recently during another repairhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/repair-of-hp-0957-2304-power-pack-for-hp-photosmart-7510-all-in-one/msg4615453/#msg4615453that the method I use to test MOSFETs with my multimeter is not reliable. It seems that some power MOSFETs, in particular high voltage devices, need more than the 2.5V that my multimeter can provide to turn on the gate. I now add a 1.5V battery in series with the test leads of my multimeter or use the very handy Multifunction Tester to verify these devices (see photo). There are a whole range of these devices available on the internet for just a few dollars, all based on an "open source" project, and they are really very effective.So the only components that now appear to have failed are the D3/D9 diode and the Q2 9565 MOSFET. Others have speculated that Q2 needs extra cooling or is under spec'ed, possibly because the common failure mode is to find a hole blown in this device! But looking at my circuit board I don't see any sign of long term heat around Q2 but it is definitely visible around D3/D9. In the photo of the back of the board in the original post by WaynesWorld and in the photo I have attached to this post you can see the brown discolouring around D3/D9 but there is no sign of this around Q2.My theory is that D3/D9 goes short circuit and then dramatically kills Q2 which explosively blows open.

author: GraemeG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2023, 11:38:44 pm
content: Success! The charger is repaired and has charged a battery. Just one battery charged so far and time will tell how reliable the repair is, but I am fairly confident.As I suspected in my last post, the final repair was just the replacement of D3/D9 and Q2. I used the MBR20200CT dual schottky diode to replace both D3 and D9. See the attached diagram but this device is a diode pair in a common cathode arrangement in a TO-220 package. Each diode has a current rating of 20A so much higher than the original 5A rating for each of the MBR5200 diodes. Just one half of the pair in the MBR20200CT should handle the job but the holes are in the board so why not make use of both. Yes I know it's not good practice to use diodes in parallel but there is no harm, there may be some current sharing because the two diodes are probably on the one silicon die and should have very similar characteristics, and the component is physically more stable using all 3 legs.I also added a small piece of aluminium as a heatsink as it seems these diodes generate more heat that anything else on the board. The average current through these diodes is much less than the 5A rating of the original diodes but I suspect that the heat generated by the switching process is what tends to kill these diodes so anything we can do to keep them cool is probably a good idea.This charger failed during the summer months in Australia. It was located in a garage, in the shade, but it may have been quite warm in there when it failed. I wonder whether this is a factor in the failure of these chargers?A couple more suggestions before I finish:- Despite being careful, I somehow damaged the track between R12 and the gate of Q2 when I had unsoldered Q2. This track runs underneath Q2. Q2 was so cracked that it came off in 3 pieces and yet the track was broken. I am not usually heavy handed so be gentle when removing the dead MOSFET. I used a single stand of wire from some multi-strand hookup wire to bridge the gap.- If you use a heatsink like this be careful of the ferrite bead FB1. Speaking from experience, it can short out against the heatsink which is connected to the tab of the diode package. Luckily no damage done!- Not shown in these photos but I glued a small brace from the heatsink down to the board to make the whole thing more stable (and to make sure it never makes contact with FB1 again!!)So in the end, once I had the replacement parts, this was quite a straight forward repair.

author: Amir
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 23, 2023, 01:41:24 pm
content: Used to do Electronics in last century. Some help needed.I am getting close to 60V on charging leads.When plugged in red light is blinking normally.Resistor in photo looks burned and there was some oxidation in the area. Any suggestion is appreciated.UPDATELight is steady red when no battery is inserted.With battery charging it flashes intermittently, green - red

author: GraemeG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 12:04:52 am
content: Hello Amir. 60V seems much too high! Looking at your photo it appears that some liquid has been on the board and caused the corrosion. I have seen this type of corrosion before, it looks like electrolysis. Perhaps some water found its way into the charger while power was on.First, be careful of the high voltages on the circuit board! Depending on your fault there could still be a high voltage on the primary capacitor LC1 even after you have unplugged the charger.If you are measuring a voltage on the output terminals then it seems likely that the switching transistor Q1 and its driver circuit are still working to some degree but 60V is too high. With no battery connected I measure 0V on the battery charge terminals and 4V on both the T1 and T2 terminals.I would start by cleaning the corrosion as much as possible and remove and check any components that have corroded leads. I have seen electrolysis eat completely through component leads and circuit board tracks so each corroded component should be tested and the tracks carefully checked. The 4 pin IC in your photo is PC1 the LH1520 optocoupler that provides feedback from the low voltage secondary side of the transformer to the high voltage switch made up of IC1 (6853) and Q1 (NDF04N60). If the optocoupler is damaged then the output voltage will not be correct. Also check the components that feed the input to the optocoupler, ZD4 D5 R27 ZD3 R62 etc.Can you take pictures of the whole board from both sides? I would also check the parallel diodes D3 & D9 and have a close look at the surface mount MOSFET Q2 on the track side of the board.In case you haven't noticed it, check Greybeard's post #21 which has a link to a full circuit diagram for this charger.

author: Greybeard
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 09:02:35 am
content: There is no way I would repair a PSU in this miserable condition:No one can guarantee your safety (insulation resistance, etc.).I would throw this unit away and try to get a used one in better condition.

author: GraemeG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 10:17:29 am
content: Good advice Greybeard

author: Amir
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 25, 2023, 07:09:48 am
content: GraemeG - I got the diagram. Optocoupler I am ordering and more cleaning is coming prior to posting additional photos. (found 10 pack optocoupler for $5, and have no clue what to do with other 9 once this is replaced :-)Originally I was trying to post photos directly from the phone but they are too big.Once it is vacuumed and images resized I will post other photos.Rest of the board looks OK.Eyes are not as they used to be so details are better through the camera.Thanks everyone for input. (as for the throwing it in the trash - I would too. 220V units are expensive and wort thing is that I got it from flea market for a friend and now I feel bad for wasting his money - hence trying to repair it)

author: Amir
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 26, 2023, 09:01:27 am
content: As promised. Photos of the board before I start removing parts for verification. Will update this post with defective parts list. (Limited testing capabilities)Nice to be getting back baby steps in electronics world

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2023, 10:20:36 am
content: I would get red of that glue. It becomes corrosive and conductive with age.Nice clean up job, BTW.

author: GraemeG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2023, 11:09:31 am
content: Yes clear the glue from around the optocoupler, ZD4 and the other corroded components. The bottom of the board looks clean and clear of any corrosion so that is promising.You have a slightly different version to mine and others but I think the circuit diagram is probably still very close. If you compare yours with the photo in the very first post of this thread you can see that instead of a pair of separate diodes D3/D9 to rectify the secondary of the transformer, you have a single TO-220 package mounted with a small aluminium heatsink. This is a much better solution and this is how I set up mine when I repaired it.The TO-220 package will almost certainly be a pair of diodes in a single package. You can check these 2 diodes using most multimeters using the diode test function. Fully testing ZD4 is a little harder but it is probably a 30V zener so should act like a normal diode as far as a multimeter is concerned.You can test the optocoupler with a multimeter on diode test across the transistor (receiving side) and a second multimeter or even a battery and a resister to drive the photodiode on the transmitting side.I just noticed in your first picture posted 3 days ago that the component beside ZD4 looks like a 3.15A fuse. On my version this is just a wire link but you should test it and replace it with the correct fuse if it is open circuit.Also very carefully check CF1, RF1 and the link beside them. These are on the primary side of the transformer and look very corroded.

author: GraemeG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2023, 01:22:00 am
content: Amir can you read the part number of the TO220 package diode with the heatsink? I can see a date code of June 29, 2015 on the top of your board so this is a newer version than mine. My charger has a serial number 005624 and was made in week 4 of 2014 according to the label on the outside of the charger. What is the build date from the bottom of your unit?It would seem that Ryobi has realised the weakness of the D3/D9 parallel diode pair that frequently fails. I am curious to hear what diode they have chosen to replace this pair.

author: Amir
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 28, 2023, 08:38:33 am
content: At this time I removed primary side CF1 and RF1. Cleaned the board and will install new parts. Also replacing rusted link above them.Removed ZD and fuse. Cleaned and will be getting new parts also. (ZD broke before removing so even if good it had to go :-) )Optocouples for sure is gone. All connections cleaned for new one to be installed.Charger was made in 44 week of 2015Information from package diode is as followsBYQ28E200PJA1524 B79863 (or 9663)I will try measuring it and worst case scenario replace it too. No oxidation on that area.

author: GraemeG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2023, 10:08:31 am
content: Thanks Amir. The BYQ28E-200 is a 200V 10Amp dual common cathode diode. Definitely a better option than the two discrete 5A diodes that were originally in my version. And the heatsink is an improvement too.Personally I still prefer the MBR20200CT as it is a schottky diode with a lower voltage drop and so a lower power dissipation but the BYQ28E-200 is still a good choice.

author: GraemeG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2023, 11:37:52 pm
content: It has been pointed out to me that I had incorrectly listed the replacement I used for Q2 (P-Ch MOSFET 9565) as IRFR5303 when in fact it is IRFR5305. I have edited the 2 posts where the incorrect number was used.There was also a question about the value of C4 (I assume used for transient suppression across the rectifier diodes). The print was quite faint on the two units I have looked at but I believe it is a 470pF 1KV ceramic capacitor. The marking is 471 which is code for 470pF. The attached photo is the best I can do without removing it but I'd be happy if anyone can confirm the markings.

author: Amir
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 30, 2023, 03:51:35 pm
content: Replaced oxidized parts. In electronic store they did not have 82kOhm resistor (installed 100k instead) and capacitor - they had ceramic)Voltage on charging points is now 16 v and 3.9 with middle connector.Charger now blinks red in stand by.I will obtain correct replacement parts and verify again.@GraemeG - when I get it back I will provide image of the capacitor in question.

author: vanhien771354
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 17, 2023, 12:05:39 pm
content: Hi all, i want to ask what is 6 pin IC ?? I dont recogize it

author: GraemeG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2023, 09:37:31 pm
content: The surface mount 6 pin IC1 is a CR6853. I found the datasheet herehttps://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/789117/Chip-Rail/CR6853/1but there are other sites that have it too.

author: vanhien771354
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 24, 2023, 09:38:10 am
content: Hello all, I have some problem I replace IC1 CR6853 = QWP36Rand I using VOM C3 just 14v, C25 same 14v . It working

author: vanhien771354
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 24, 2023, 10:04:47 am
content: Quote from: vanhien771354 on December 24, 2023, 09:38:10 amthanks

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2023, 06:03:34 pm
content: so what goes here,started with waynes world them to graem them amir,so is this 3 threads rolled into one?,if so it needs to stop,gets hard to follow,why cant they post there own threads rather than hijack one?,who is with me on this??,merry xmas all.