USB powered Neon Indicator lamps? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 02:29:52 pm
content: I was thinking of making a desktop sculpture using those little neon indicator lamps.The question is: How to power it?Those things need 90V to light up but then they drop down to about 50V in use. You need to put in a current limiting resistor.They use about 1mA of current each and I'm thinking 20-25 lamps.The easiest way would be mains A/C (in a closed jar with fuse+isolation transformer, obviously) but I'm wondering if it could be powered via USB. With USB power I could take it down the pub to show it off, etc.What would be a simple circuit to do that? Would a joule-thief-type circuit work with those lamps or do I need to go the full hog with a little transformer, 555 timer, rectifier, etc?Any ideas welcomed...thanks!PS: I'd like the circuitry to be small/hidden if possible.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 02:35:40 pm
content: PS: Some entertaining reading material:http://www.nutsvolts.com/uploads/magazine_downloads/NeonLamp-Information.pdfBe sure to read right to the end, there's some fun projects and plenty of funny old adverts

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 05:07:15 pm
content: Buy some USB ionisers on eBay, and use the small royer converter in there to drive the neon lamps. Small, cheap and has a case with USB connector on it. Big Clive on Youtube did some review on them recently, where he took some apart. You just need to remove the voltage multiplier on the output of the small transformer and use connect the neon there.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 06:06:31 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on September 23, 2015, 05:07:15 pmI found this:I've left him a question about the voltages, let's see what he thinks of the idea.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 06:21:59 pm
content: A multivibrator or "ZVS" or Joule Thief-like circuit could be used just fine, followed by a voltage multiplier (perhaps an LC resonant tank). They don't need DC. Any CCFL circuit will do (since, that's what they are, with less mercury and phosphor of course).Tim

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 06:48:11 pm
content: I just saw this on eBay:http://www.ebay.com/itm/231693965272If it outputs 1000V from 6V input and a six stage multiplier then the transformer itself should put out about 150V with a 5V input - pretty good!(Or maybe even more than 150 volts - Cockroft Walton multipliers have a lot of losses in the diodes)I could leave in one stage of the multiplier and have a rectified voltage without too much loss (ormaybeleave in two stages - 300V would let me run 3 lamps in series and reduce the current demand by a factor of 3).I doesn't say it works at 5V though and the photos are too crappy to see the chip numbers (does it say 'NE555' on the 8-pin chip?)

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 06:52:26 pm
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on September 23, 2015, 06:21:59 pmMight be difficult to tune/optimize (for me!)Quote from: T3sl4co1l on September 23, 2015, 06:21:59 pmAha! I was searching for the wrong thing. There's a lot of people running CFL light bulbs off batteries on the web and the circuits will be similar.

author: uski
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 07:23:35 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on September 23, 2015, 02:35:40 pmCrap. I thought I discovered something awesome when I noticed some neon lamps turn themselves off with no outside light, and turn back on when outside light is applied. But no, it seems like this so-called "dark effect" has been known for decadesThanks for the interesting read !

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 07:30:23 pm
content: Also appears in fluorescent lamp starters, which often need external ionising radiation now to start them, now that they no longer have an americium initiator in them. Some interesting articles on how this works in a deep mine, where the string of lamps does not light after the power is applied till you light a torch, after which they all light in sequence down the tunnel.

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 07:52:51 pm
content: Here's one of mine, lighting six NE-2s in series from a single AAA battery:

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 09:04:30 pm
content: Quote from: alsetalokin4017 on September 23, 2015, 07:52:51 pmThat's a big transistor...

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 09:07:06 pm
content: Update: "Big Clive" is too scared to measure the voltage in the USB ionizer for me.I think I'm going to order one of thoseebay boostersand see what happens at 5V. I reckon that's an NE555 and some sort of MOSFET on the PCB so it should do something.

author: LaserSteve
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 09:35:54 pm
content: Here is my favorite neon circuit, blinks the lamps in sequence. Interrupt the voltage for a second, and the flash order reverses.This is the "Goofy Light" Radio Shack P-Box project kit from my youth...It works best with polyester or other thin film capacitors.http://my.core.com/~sparktron/130P6.JPGSteve

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 09:48:53 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on September 23, 2015, 09:04:30 pmBut it's a _small_ battery....The transistor is a common-as-dirt 2n3055. The "Jason Mask" heatsink is just for show. The components on the near edge of the board are a simple wireless receiver, so that, with the addition of a loop antenna, the unit can operate without any onboard battery at all, as long as it's in range of its wireless power transmitter. They are not needed if the battery is used for power. So the BOM of the basic unit is: One 2n3055 or similar NPN, one 10mH choke with an extra 20-turn winding on the outside, one ten-turn 50k trimpot, one 1n4007 diode, one SPDT switch, six neons, one battery holder.

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 09:57:38 pm
content: Quote from: LaserSteve on September 23, 2015, 09:35:54 pmAh yes, the old reliable neon ring oscillator. The power supply section may be just what Fungus is looking for. I've built a few of those myself but I use an even simpler JT circuit to power them.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 11:55:52 pm
content: Quote from: LaserSteve on September 23, 2015, 09:35:54 pmGet one here:http://www.ebay.com/itm/291569456696Quote from: alsetalokin4017 on September 23, 2015, 09:57:38 pmMaybe. Is that a center tap transformer? I'm trying to figure out the ratio...looks like 200:1 but that seems a bit high.Quote from: alsetalokin4017 on September 23, 2015, 09:57:38 pmSchematic?

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 12:33:10 am
content: Yes, I think the schematic shows a transformer with resistance values given as 1k and 200k, and the 1k side is center tapped. This might be a miniature audio output transformer.Sorry, I can't seem to find my schematic of that particular JT circuit I used for my ring oscillators. But I see that if you google "Neon Joule Thief" and then look at the Images, there are many usable variations shown there. Typically it will use one NPN transistor (high voltage, like a CRT horizontal deflection transistor or similar), a diode, and a home-made inductor wound on a generic ferrite toroid, and a base resistor, and perhaps a capacitor or two. A variable resistor (trimpot) for the transistor Base is a good idea.

author: westfw
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 01:00:49 am
content: I've successfully driven Neon bulbs with essentially this circuit:Single Alkaline Battery Drives White LED(use high-voltage transistors like MPSA42 instead of 2n3904s.) I have a PCB layout somewhere, if you want.The guts from a disposable camera Xenon flash will also happily drive neon bulbs. (though I guess they're not very USB-power friendly.)Most of the EL inverters should generate approximately useful power for Neon, and you can get them pre-packaged with USB connectors for "case lighting." (AC, though. Rectify if needed.) This MIGHT apply to the vanishingly tiny inverters aimed at backlights in watches (but it's slightly iffy: some of those only produce about 80V)Most "ionizer" or CFL circuits are going to generate voltages much higher than you need.

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 03:30:50 am
content: A simple inductive booster circuit should work. Does not need to be fancy.

author: @rt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 04:42:08 am
content: If you just pulse DC to them (i.e. 555 and small audio former),only one electrode in the neon lights, which is easy to see close up.If you push/pull the transformer with Hbridge, then turns ratio applies and you don’t have enough voltage to light it.You no longer have an off cycle for natural collapse of the field in the transformer.There doesn’t seem to be a streamline way to get it right.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 08:50:12 am
content: Quote from: @rt on September 24, 2015, 04:42:08 ama) I that just aesthetic or does that mean they're less bright than they could be? I could arrange the sculpture so you mostly see them from the side...b) Surely all transformers output AC.Quote from: @rt on September 24, 2015, 04:42:08 amYep, there's a lot of choices.Update: I've ordered a couple of those eBay transformers to play with. I might end up building a few of these as gifts so anything pre-built that saves me a couple of mornings work is worth it. I figure I can tap them at different places to get 150V AC, 150V DC, 300V DC...etc. I'll experiment to see what works best.On a side note, what determines the lifespan of those bulbs? Is it mostly down to build quality?I think I might add some sort of auto-power-off function so people can't leave them on 24/7 (maybe a capacitive sensor to turn them on for 4 hours when you touch them).Edit: According tothislamp life is due to damage at the cathode and they last a lot longer on AC than on DC.

author: @rt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 09:45:08 am
content: It’s not that they aren’t as bright, just looks weird up close.With the frosted glass colours you could hardly tell:You can use a 1:1 audio transformer that way.The circuit is relying on alternate build up & collapse of magnetic field.Now to light it properly, the same transformer won’t easily do.I have used a 1:10 transformer here and a H-bridge to use turns ratio to produce 120 Volts.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 10:00:34 am
content: For $14 you can get one of thesehttp://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?vendor=0&keywords=811-1583-5-NDThey take 5VDC and produce +24, +48 and +72 output isolated from the input. (there's also a 12V input version)If you only load the 72V output you can draw up to 42mA.There is little to no voltage regulation so without any load the 72V output can be as high as 160V or soBut it quickly drops to around 72V once you load it.With 42mA of available current at 72V and the neons only needing 1mA you could power quite a lot of them. More than enough for your 20-25 lamp project and all contained in one small module.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 10:50:44 am
content: Quote from: Psi on September 24, 2015, 10:00:34 amNot a bad option. Certainly easy to use...Doing the math though: 72V @ 42 mA is 3W - more than standard USB can provide.(But still, I don't really need 42mA for what I'm thinking...maybe for version II)Quote from: Psi on September 24, 2015, 10:00:34 amThat's a GOOD thing for neons.Quote from: Psi on September 24, 2015, 10:00:34 amBut ... that's a bit of a worry. Those lamps need about 90V to start up so if I connect a lot in parallel some of them might not light up if the voltage gets dragged down.I don't have any experience yet though, I'm just reading stuff online and trying to figure out what I need. The first bulbs should arrive next week.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 02:32:28 am
content: Use the 12V input version. It maintains a higher output voltage (which is > 72V guaranteed over the full output power range)Then take advantage of the fact that they are isolated modules and connect the input to output so the output is ontop of the input.Isolation is coolIf you look at the graph you can see they actually output more than 72V. At 2W they look to be 75V.So that gives you 75V+12V = 87V I'm 99.9"% certain a 90V neon will strike reliably with > 87V.

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 04:22:13 am
content: finally a use for all the multicolored neon bulbs I bought on ebay

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 08:45:31 am
content: Quote from: Psi on September 27, 2015, 02:32:28 amOn my 12V USB port...?

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 09:29:39 am
content: Quote from: sarepairman2 on September 27, 2015, 04:22:13 amI got blue ones...

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 09:32:40 am
content: Quote from: Fungus on September 27, 2015, 08:45:31 amoh right, for some reason i thought you were powering it from a computer and had the internal +5 and +12 available.You can still do it, but output will be min of 84V Should be fine.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 09:40:49 am
content: Quote from: Psi on September 27, 2015, 09:32:40 amThis option will be explored if the little eBay boards don't work out. I'm waiting for them to arrive...

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 09:51:06 am
content: Is it just me that has the urge to go get some pliers wherever seeing a row of little glass neons?crunch,crunch,crunch.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 12:24:00 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on September 27, 2015, 09:51:06 amApprently notWho knew?

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 01:10:45 pm
content: Try dumping 5-10kV into a neon, WITHOUT a resistor. Pretty purple glow instead of orange. (I repair electric fence energisers, I love to see what their outputs can destroy!)

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 01:46:05 pm
content: Quote from: wagon on September 27, 2015, 01:10:45 pmI tried to destroy an old Pentium using the fence energiser, passing the output through the die using a thin bare coper wire held by the pins on the one side and another on the other side pins. Around 30 zaps, and put it back in the old motherboard, and the bleeding thing posted and booted as if nothing was wrong. Destroyed it finally by connecting to a 12V battery till the pins melted off, though I was thinking the silicon inside probably was still working.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 01:50:40 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on September 27, 2015, 01:46:05 pmYou probably connected to ground pins on both sides.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 02:04:16 pm
content: I looked for rows where there were none with the placement of the wire, and tried with a supply pin as single input as well. Those are tough, they would only fail if you left the heatsink off and powered it up, and only the Celeron without a heat spreader on it. The canned ones would run partway through post then do an emergency thermal shutdown. Was expensive for the guy who left the plastic paste cover on the heatsink and clipped it on and turned it on. Needed new processor and motherboard as the plastic clip glued it into the socket before the bang.

author: g0hjq
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 03:55:38 pm
content: There are some videos on my Youtube Channel showing various configurations of Neon.https://youtu.be/hfjhknxc9ekhttps://youtu.be/PimL80JjmG0https://youtu.be/JSSBvxIcylshttps://youtu.be/f6Xg9GPGwBMThey only need a few milliamps at 90v DC. I used a simple MC34063 driving a step-up transformer, similar to the one in figure 27 in here:http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/AN920-D.PDFbut with a different transformer turns ratio.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2015, 04:16:21 pm
content: Quote from: g0hjq on September 27, 2015, 03:55:38 pmCool.I ordered some green ones as well. If I get the hang of them I think I might do this year's Xmas tree with neon instead of LEDs.Quote from: g0hjq on September 27, 2015, 03:55:38 pm

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2015, 03:31:06 pm
content: Quote from: wagon on September 27, 2015, 01:10:45 pmHow long do they last?

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2015, 09:23:02 am
content: Quote from: SeanB on September 27, 2015, 01:46:05 pmMore power required. How many joules was the unit?

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2015, 09:29:21 am
content: Quote from: Fungus on September 28, 2015, 03:31:06 pmI've never run one to destruction. I should! I've got a little battery unit on test now, it puts out 11kV open-circuit. Might run that for a bit. I've also got a 20+ Joule unit I'm waiting on for parts. It will blow a 100ohm 10w resistor to pieces, so it'll be good for torturing neons.Neons are often used in electric fence units to indicate something is coming from the output. Typically they'll have 100k-200k of resistor in series with the neon.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2015, 11:39:19 am
content: Update: The neons arrived today.... haven't got around to lighting one up yet though. I got plain neon plus green and blue phosphors.nb. The little transformers are just 1:1 isolation transformers from the same seller. I put them the bag when I was still thinking of connecting them directly to the mains (which I might still do, you never know...)

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2015, 04:59:56 pm
content: Update: I got the little transformers today.They are indeed a 555 timer feeding a transformer (at about 14kHz). The transformer output is about 177 Volts with a 5V input (yes they work at 5V even though eBay says 6V).I didn't have any luck connecting neons directly across the transformer output (frequency too high?) so it looks like I have to use DC.Here's one lighting up some neons connected in parallel across the first capacitor in the Cockroft-Walton multiplier. I need to play around and see how much current it can supply.Also ... find out if I can connect two neons in series. Can I connect them across two capacitors and get three or more in series, etc.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2015, 05:06:45 pm
content: PS: The plain orange one flickers up and down the cathode randomly, lighting up about two thirds of the cathode at any given time. It also goes from one side of the cathode to the other.This is a pleasing effect...but what causes that? Not enough amps...? Anybody know?

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2015, 06:28:30 pm
content: Update: Three neons in series across the first output capacitor.The bad news: The voltage across the cap is much higher than with three in parallel. Was three in parallel dragging the output voltage down already?

author: eneuro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2015, 06:55:08 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on September 23, 2015, 02:29:52 pmWith 12V battery and my ZVS driver driving custom split 5 turn each flyback primary, secondary a few kV HV DC easy glows via two 10M resistors in series at low current (below 1mA I guess) 18W T8 0.6 meter long flourescent lampI have via those 20M total resistors still 2mm-3mm plasma sparks at very low current, which only slightly turns on 3mm green led, but this huge neon outputs decent light for night lamp from old unused car starter battery, etc.No need to mess with USB and connect HV stuff close to laptop or desktop PC

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2015, 07:05:54 pm
content: Now I'm wondering if it might be a good idea to strategically remove caps/diodes and reconfigure the Cockroft-Walton ladder as a bridge rectifier.The available power would presumably go up quite a lot.

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2015, 09:26:57 pm
content: Yes, you can certainly connect NE-2s in series.....

author: eneuro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 05:41:11 am
content: Quote from: alsetalokin4017 on October 07, 2015, 09:26:57 pmWhich is power rating of those tiny NE-2s?Nice, flyback with removed enclosure?Maybe I will multiply flyback output to a few tens kV and energise using my ZVS driver Chrismas tree using plenty such NE-2s?

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 07:01:06 am
content: Quote from: eneuro on October 08, 2015, 05:41:11 amThose are regular NE-2 neons. They generally are rated around 1 mW or less in power (0.6 mA is the nominal current that they are designed for, IIRC.) The transformer is a ferrite core removed from a flyback transformer, with three homemade coils wound onto bobbins that slip onto it. The transistor is a CRT horizontal deflection transistor.Yes, sure, you should see how many series NE-2s you can light up with a flyback transformer! They explode quite nicely when they get too much current! (Beyond the "purple glow" point....)You can even light them up wirelessly with the right oscillator and antenna....

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 08:21:58 am
content: Quote from: eneuro on October 08, 2015, 05:41:11 amThey have a "striking voltage" of about 90V to turn them on.But once they're lit up they need 50-60V at about 0.5mA, depending on the manufacturer (some are 0.3mA, some are 0.7mA...)55V x 0.0005mA gives 0.0275W

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 08:25:06 am
content: Quote from: alsetalokin4017 on October 07, 2015, 09:26:57 pmI was more worried about connecting several strings in parallel. If one string lights up first would it prevent the other strings from striking? I guess I'll find out in the next few days.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 08:39:27 am
content: Quote from: alsetalokin4017 on October 08, 2015, 07:01:06 amHow ? Is it easy to build ?Intermezzo ... inspired by uBeam wireless charging, a wireless powered flashlight maybe ? Maybe we should launch a KS campaign for it.....j/k

author: eneuro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 03:41:14 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on October 08, 2015, 08:25:06 amMy guess is all neon strings will start and share current in parallel, but didn't checked it yet, so let us knowWhen you will try add to live circuit new neons than probably they will now glow without turning everything off and than again on, while neons were some time ago used as some kind of voltage regulators.I'd like to power up a few 1.5 meter long 55W rated flourescent lamps to create something like rays of sun (etc) and trying to figure out what could be better-connect them in parallel or in series to my a few kV low current (limited by resistors for the moment, but we can limit also fly back primary current and play with its resonant frequency) .

author: eneuro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 03:57:02 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on October 08, 2015, 08:39:27 amActually I've made a few turns with wires around two connected rooms, so total loop length is 30 meters, while bigger room has dimensions 5 m x 4m, so total length around is ~20 meters smaller one ~ 10 meters, so average diameter will be ~9 m for bigger room and 3m for smaller one.There are a few turns, so my plan is connect ZVS driver, than make many turns of smaller inductor and capacitor in parallel to match its resonant frequency and... add leds in antiparallel.But after looking at those nice NE-2 neons, capable of working with AC voltages, maybe It will be better, make somethign like many small Tesla coil's for each neon and power up plenty of them using this huge a few turns coil around roomI'll post results there where sometime ago started WPT threadeevblog: Tesla (Tower) Wireless Power TransferLets challenge this uBeam and powerup house wireless without bloody stupid idea of harmfull for animals ultrasound

author: LaserSteve
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2015, 02:47:33 pm
content: If you have the correct series resistor in in your string, all parallel neon strings will glow Provided:You have about ~20VDC more then the minimum striking point of the worse string.You have a supply capable of enough current for all strings.So if your not "starving" the system with a minimalist approach or undersized power supply, all strings will light.One of the ways you can tell if your current starved is: The cathode electrode is not uniformly covered in plasma or the plasma moves around the electrode in a small spot.Illuminate the neon lamps electrodes with a 350 nm UV LED and the strike time will go way down. The strike voltage will be a few volts lower due to free electrons provided by the photoelectric effect :-) If you have an electrometer you will see a small current from your neon "photodiode", provided you only illuminate one electrode. However the mean free path is small in the lamp due to a high gas pressure and the current will be tiny compared to a phototube.The purple glow during destruction is residual nitrogen released from the electrodes and glass envelope when overheated, coupled with a tiny bit of the sputtered vapor from the electrode metal.As for inductive coupling, it was and is used for RF pumped fluorescent lamps used when the lamp is in inaccessible place and needs a long life. I used to have a full sized pyrex glass coffee cup with hollow walls, filled with neon. (Plasma Mug) You placed it on a inductive RF source pad with a high peak voltage field, and it lit. Was an Ebay item for a while, I don't know if they are still made.Here is one cool induction coupled application of neon:http://www.obsta.com/contents/balisor-for-high-voltage-lines/balisor-for-high-voltage-lines-2Maybe I need to shoot a video of the five pound bag of neon lamps placed in the microwave oven for a few seconds. :-)Steve

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2015, 02:51:41 pm
content: Quote from: LaserSteve on October 09, 2015, 02:47:33 pmThat's happening to me. Thanks for letting me know the reason.I haven't really calculated the resistor value yet or anything like that, so I guess I'll need to tweak it.Quote from: LaserSteve on October 09, 2015, 02:47:33 pmQuote from: LaserSteve on October 09, 2015, 02:47:33 pm