Fluke i1010 AC/DC Current Clamp Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Lemie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 17, 2021, 02:17:46 am
content: I have a Fluke i1010 AC/DC clamp meter that has received some damage to the PCB. To my untrained eye, it looks like a capacitor has blown and there is some corrosion around several solder joints. The clamp currently doesn't turn on or output a reading. I called the fluke hotline for ordering repair parts but the part number (101203) that is printed on the PCB was not in their system. I'm guessing this is because it's an old model. At this point, I'm thinking I'd like to try replacing the blown capacitor and cleaning off the corrosion but I have no idea what capacitor it was because it's blown to bits. So I'm now looking for a service manual or another person with the same meter who can open theirs up and let me know what capacitor it uses. I've attached some images for reference. Any advice or help is welcome, I thought I'd give fixing it a shot rather than throwing it away.I should also mention that I am a novice when it comes to electronics. Luckily I can handle through-hole soldering with ease.Thanks

author: salvagedcircuitry
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2021, 10:19:59 pm
content: Hi Lemie,I am in the middle of testing out my i1010 as well. Here is the service manual in case you have not found it:https://www.finning.com/content/dam/finning/en_ca/Documents/Products/Rental/PowerSystems/Instrumentation/MetersClamps/i410____sieng0000.pdfGood luckEdit: this is clearly a calibration guide not service manual, derp

author: Lemie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 23, 2021, 10:38:41 pm
content: Hi salvagedcircuitry,Thank you for posting the service manual. Sadly, the manual doesn't go into enough detail to tell me what capacitor to buy. However, if you could pop open your meter and tell me what voltage and capacitance rating the capacitor is I would be super thankful. I believe that is what went wrong on my unit although it's likely that something else is wrong too. And of course, I understand if you'd rather not open it up.Lemie

author: PwrElectronics
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2021, 11:45:22 pm
content: I've also a i1010. Came from the dumpster missing the battery cover (is that why it was tossed???)...There are actually 2 capacitors there.Markings appear to show these as 10uF, 16V. The polarity stripe is toward the cable end of the unit.Physical size is .023" (0.61mm) and .11" (2.8mm) tall.UPDATE: OK, after posting this, I went and looked at your photo again and realized the spot you are likely looking at is NOT where a component was. That is actually the solder from the battery leads that come in on the back side. The black lead is closer to the board edge and red is the other.It sure looks like your unit got dunked or otherwise had water inside it.I've used these for years and one thing to know is that when the power switch is OFF, there will be a significant voltage at the output to your DMM. Water setting on the board between the incoming 9v would have electrolyized and started some corrosion there.I would start with a thorough cleaning of all the corrosion products and make sure 9v from a good battery is getting into the circuit.

author: Lemie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 23, 2021, 11:53:16 pm
content: Hey PwrElectronics,Thank you so much for the pictures and information. That is the exact information I was looking for! I will have to order some replacement caps now. If I'm lucky the meter might just come alive after I solder them on and clean off the corrosion.Thanks again!

author: PwrElectronics
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2021, 11:55:38 pm
content: see my update, no cap there.

author: salvagedcircuitry
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2021, 12:54:27 am
content: Well, it turns out my i1010 bit the dust. She drops to 0.0mv with ac measurement on my fluke 87 and is open load with anything DC measurement. I'm going to poke around a bit on the board to see if I can get her up and running again, but it's clearly not working right at all.

author: Lemie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 24, 2021, 01:04:30 am
content: Oh, PwrElectronics you're right. I see that now, it was a while since I opened it up. More importantly, your explanation of the corrosion makes a lot more sense than juices from a capacitor because I didn't find any exploaded bits. I'll clean up all of the corrosion and see if it will power up.salvagedcircuitry, I'm sorry to hear about your meter. I hope you manage to fix it. I'm curious what exactly failed.

author: salvagedcircuitry
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2021, 01:20:20 am
content: Quote from: Lemie on March 24, 2021, 01:04:30 amOn disassembly, I found that the ribbon cable from the ferrite clamp was not plugged into the board. While I was there I inspected the ribbon cable. Iit was slightly crinkled but not damaged so I don't suspect the ribbon itself as a potential problem and the contacts looked ok. I noticed a lack of solder on one of the ribbon cable connector pins. The missing solder may not have been a huge problem as it was still soldered to the bottom side of the PCB, but it sure isn't helping the situation. I have resoldered and reassembled. Onto round 2 of testing. Wish me luck!

author: Lemie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 24, 2021, 01:48:46 am
content: Well, I cleaned off the corrosion on both sides of the board. But alas it wouldn't turn on or give any signs of life. Something must be properly dead so I suppose that is the end of the road for this meter. But thanks to both of you for all of the great help.

author: daisizhou
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2021, 03:07:26 am
content: I hope to use lithium batteries to power the meter in the future.Because the lithium battery will not leak