Remove disintegrating foam from wooden case - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: matthuszagh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 02:15:09 am
content: I bought some Maury SMA gages. They're in good condition, but the wooden box they came in has disintigrating foam (image attached). I pulled most of this off but some is still adhering to the wood with glue. Thoughts on how best to remove this? Normally I'd use goo-gone for something like this, but I'm concerned it would get absorbed into the wood. I could probably rub more of it off just with my hands, but I'm not sure I could get it all.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 02:18:31 am
content: Quote from: matthuszagh on August 20, 2022, 02:15:09 amHmmm ... I'm wondering if you could use conditioning oil made for wood. That way it might remove the foam and also not damage the wood?

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 03:14:07 am
content: I'd try a putty knife or a plastic razor blade scraper. They're strong enough to do the job, but won't dig into the wood the way a sharper blade would.

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 05:31:12 am
content: I had similar situation. Liberally soaked the foam with mineral spirits, the foam melted to goo and scraped the goo off with an old credit card. Do not use metal putty knife, it may scratch the wood. After cleaning i left the box open for a few days to allow the chemical smell to evaporate.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 08:43:56 am
content: I would use a more volatile solvent than goo-b-gone and similar. My goto is usually VM&P naphtha. If that doesn't work, then I add a little (10%) toluene or xylene to spice it up. If you go up in solvent strength to acetone/MEK you have a greater chance of ruining the finish, but in some instances (e.g., some 3M's spray adhesives) it is necessary.One thing to consider is whether the adhesive was applied neat or on some carrier, like double sticky tape. In the latter case, you need to get the carrier removed. The best approach I have found is simply a heat gun and peeling it off. Once that is done, you will still need to remove residual goo.

author: AndyBeez
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 09:16:35 am
content: I feel your pain. Use a scraper or putty knife. It's on the inside. Scrape off as much as you can mechanically, then white spirit might dissove the sticky residue - leave to vent for a few days! Otherwise, just recover with felt.

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 10:48:39 am
content: Did you consider IPA? I am no wood expert, but It shouldn't be too aggressive.

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 02:22:43 pm
content: Beware some solvents may discolorate the wood. WD40 did. Mineral spirits did not.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 05:32:30 pm
content: Try DMSO. It cures everything.

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 11:39:43 pm
content: Try a hot air gun...if u smell smoke you're too hot.

author: Tomorokoshi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2022, 02:55:30 am
content: Not sure if this will work unless the adhesive is similar:https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/zinsser-products/wallpaper-removal/dif-gel-ready-to-use-wallpaper-stripper/I used it to remove the adhesive for fabric on the inside of a case. It didn't wreck the wood at all. Allow some soak time, but not too much. Use a plastic scraper as mentioned.

author: matthuszagh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2022, 02:19:51 am
content: Thanks for the terrific suggestions everyone! I ended up using mineral spirits (which was easier to source than naphtha in California) and a plastic putty knife. Worked really well and the wood seems to be completely unharmed. I'll let it sit for a few days now to air out. If I replace the foam I probably won't glue it to the case to avoid the same problem.

author: Robert763
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2022, 08:01:36 pm
content: Bit late to this, but I can say that Methanol, is the best solvent for degraded gooey foam.This is the main ingredient of methylated sprit inthe UK. Mineral Sprits (in the USA) seems to be Stoddart solvent / odourless kerosine / white sprit is OK but not as good. Methanol is more toxic and flammable.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2022, 08:29:58 pm
content: Mineral spirits (if real) will take much longer to evaporate than naphtha. The principle difference is boiling point. They can both be called "naphtha" or "petroleum spirits" and VM&P can be called light naphtha. It is also a little better solvent. The so-called odorless mineral spirits is closest to kerosine. I bought some by accident once and repurposed it to starting my smoker for cooking.Glad it worked for you. I am a bit surprised Big Box stores don't have their favorite brand of light naphtha (Klean Strip, Jasco, Sunnyside, etc.), but then nothing in California surprises me today. That is not meant to be political. I grew up in the area of 4th Street, Beverly Blvd, and Atlantic Blvd in East LA, but was able to escape at the tender age of 19.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2022, 08:33:08 pm
content: Quote from: Robert763 on August 23, 2022, 08:01:36 pmThe equivalent in the US is probably called "Denatured Alcohol for Fuel..." Unlike denatured ethanol, denatured alcohol for fuel can be mostly methanol. Denatured ethanol has become hard to find, which really screws woodworkers who like to use real shellac.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2022, 08:33:56 pm
content: I used paint stripper on wooden boxes from a spray can to get rid of old varnish if you sand after it never created a problem, you would think it does but it did not

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2022, 04:43:11 pm
content: Here is mine. I first used WD40 on the lid and while melting the foam residue nicely, clearly it caused spotty discoloration. I then switched to mineral spirits for the rest of the box (with an old credit card as a scraper) and it worked well.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2022, 05:56:22 pm
content: I look at the SDS/MSDS for any "miracle" consumer product I buy. Here's a discussion of WD40 on Stackexchange:https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/50741/how-does-wd40-displace-waterHere's a snippet from its MSDS: (image attached). The "water displacement" component is a mystery, and apparently doesn't need to be included in its MSDS. Could it be hand soap? I can see no advantage of WD40 for removing foam, unless you particularly like the perfume in it.In any event, I use CRC products for rust protection. For lubrication, WD40 is not a lubricant and gets gummy, as does "3-in-one" oil which WD40 overwhelmed with its marketing and eventually bought.https://3inone.com/about-us/#:~:text=WD%2D40%20Company%20officially%20acquires,toiletry%2C%20pharmaceutical%20and%20food%20products.When I need a lubricant, I use an appropriate weight of non-detergent oil. Just FYI and OT, "way lube" can be hard to find. A friend suggested bar and chain oil as a cheap and readily available substitute. It has similar characteristics of adherence and stringiness.

author: mclute0
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2022, 06:36:44 pm
content: Imagine, back in the day they would use Benzine to remove that, and nobody thought twice about it. Use it today in CA and they would send out the Hazmat team to decontaminate your work area.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2022, 05:28:09 pm
content: The Stumpy Nubs youTube personality, had the perfect video a few days ago. The idea here is a blunted chisel. Instead of an edge that is very sharp with the angle of the two surfaces someplace between 15 and 30 digress, you instead grind a sharp scraping edge on the chisel. That is a 90 degree edge that is still sharpened. You end up with a handled scrapper in chisel from. This gives you lots of control for scraping operations.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2022, 06:17:25 pm
content: Wood scrapers with a burr for the cutting edge are a common woodworkers tool for very fine finishes -- better than sandpaper.What has not been mentioned to my recollection is plastic, double-edged razor blades. While plastic, they can still cut skin with long use, so I recommend a holder. Local boating supply stores probably have them as do other places. The reason, when scrapping stuff of a boat hull, they don't scratch or gouge the fiberglass. Mine happen to be orange, but are not this brand:https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Scrapers-Contoured-Refillable-Application/dp/B076BBW1WM?th=1They work great for removing bulk material from sensitive surfaces, but for remaining goo, I prefer a solvent. For super sensitive surfaces, I just use a PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) tape like masking or duct tape. Apply and remove, repeat until all the goo is gone. Ordinary butter can also be used, but then you may need to remove the remaining oil/fat with soap and water.

author: Tony_G
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2022, 03:10:09 am
content: What is the general consensus on the replacement material? I have a Cal kit that the foam needs to be swapped out before it gets to the "dribbling goo" phase.TonyG

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2022, 10:12:24 am
content: Quote from: Tony_G on August 27, 2022, 03:10:09 amWriting only for myself, I would use almost anything that is not "vinyl." More than 25 years ago, I got 1/2" polyurethane foam from McMaster-Carr in two firmnesses (pink and off-white). I use it for padding in my model airplanes. It has not disintegrated in these years. Apparently McMaster no longer sells what I got then. My top choices (not in any order) are polyurethane, EPDM, polyethylene, and neoprene. I have used them all. One caution is that foam with adhesive may well outlast the adhesive. For that reason, if I want an adhesive, I usually apply it myself and use pliobond. Old 3M 77 used to be great, but its formula has changed. It may still be good, but I haven't used it. 3M also makes a headliner/car interior adhesive that is supposed to be good. It's also quite expensive.