hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
K40 Laser cutter safety - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: IanJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 10, 2019, 01:06:55 pm
content: Hi all,Found this on YT, a great video on K40 laser safety.....I must admit I myself am paranoid about using my machine safely in terms of running it with the laser on, I always retire to the next room and start/stop/watch the cut via videocam mounted inside the machine via Lightburn (piccy below). I have retina problems already (not laser induced) so it always amazes me when I watch all these K40 videos on youtube of folks standing over their machines and watching it cut!.....utter madness.Note:Your sight is precious.Quote "How safe is a Chinese Laser Cutter? - To get answers other than confusing search results from Google, i asked the German Academy for Laser Safety in Berlin how dangerous these cheap chinese laser machines really are."Ian.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2019, 03:13:55 am
content: Depends on the Bed under what is being cut, Reflected diffused Laser through 3-4mm Acrylic is more or less 'safe'. The issue becomes if you get a direct or reflected beam off a reflective surface.I have just started making a new Aluminium pin bed table (the Acrylic version was suffering from heat) for mine as the honeycomb was causing me issues with marking the backside of the ply I was cutting. Still a bunch more holes to drill then the surface will be getting a good sanding prior to serious use.Glasses always regardless and putting your head over the viewing window

author: IanJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 15, 2019, 09:19:02 am
content: Quote from: blueskull on November 15, 2019, 07:51:35 amOuch!......rather you than me for taking that responsibility.Ian.

author: dmills
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2019, 07:46:13 pm
content: CO2 lases at 10.6um, a wavelength to which simple polycarbonate is pretty damn close to opaque, hence why an enclosed CO2 rig generally has a viewing window.I still worry about stray light because many of them are not that well sealed, and there are sometimes leakage paths (And of course calibration and alignment need eye protection), but the K40 does not strike me as being that bad.Q Switched YAG (Laser marking) is a whole other level of scary, doubly so when combined with free space optics in one of those markers.
JLCPCB 4 layer board trace width & clearance - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ayberkozgur
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 17, 2019, 02:50:13 pm
content: I recently made a 4 layer board order with JLCPCB using 3.5/3.5mil, which was processed and produced without problem. External conductors seemed to be intact upon visual inspection and internal conductors seemed to be intact as much as I could do continuity testing.https://jlcpcb.com/capabilities/Capabilitieslists them at 3.5/3.5mil for multi-layer board (which I thought meant both 4 layer and 6 layer), so no surprises there.Then I gave a second order (actually the next version of the same board) using the exact same spec. The support person reached out to me, with whom I conversed over a long email chain. Essentially boils down to this: The spec for 4 layer is actually4/4miland not 3.5/3.5mil,https://jlcpcb.com/capabilities/Capabilitiesis wrong, or doesn't list it properly. "Multi-layer board" means 6 layers only. She also told me to use 0.12mm and not 0.102mm (4mil) for "more smooth" production in case the technician needs to expand some traces (she used the term "compensate") for some reason, but I don't exactly know when/why this might be necessary given the DRC passes successfully.She sent me the attached pictures that mark the problems. All are regular 3.5mil traces with 3.5mil clearance to everything around them. Something wrong with their CAM software?Anyone had a similar experience? Did I just get lucky in my first order?

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2019, 03:00:04 pm
content: Question is, why do you need to do 3.5mil on such board with loads of space in the first place?

author: ayberkozgur
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 17, 2019, 06:30:12 pm
content: Because the dense portion of the layout will go into a much denser board. This is just a prototype of that portion.

author: OwO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2019, 05:22:42 am
content: The Chinese site still states that "multilayer" boards refer to 4 layers and above. The trace width and spacing are listed as 3.5mil. I do spot a problem though which is having lone thin traces not surrounded by ground fill (or other traces) which apparently causes problems with trace lift-off at some point in production.

author: ayberkozgur
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 18, 2019, 09:24:36 am
content: I didn't know they had a Chinese site, interesting. I think ultimately it was a mistake done by the technician. I still pulled the design rules to 4mil though.Interesting note on long thin lone traces lifting, I didn't know it would be a problem until now.
Openpnp settings for PNP machine - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: stoyanoff
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2019, 01:52:36 pm
content: Hi, everyone! I`m building my own PNP machine, but I have problems with the setting for the OPENPNP software. My machine has 4 heads(nozzles) and I have to force the Openpnp to control all of them. I really do not understand how this thing is working! As far as I know I have to make axeses for all 4 heads. So I`ve changed my machine.xml file like this:Code:<axis name="Z1" type="Z" home-coordinate="0.0"><head-mountable-ids class="java.util.HashSet"><string>N1</string></head-mountable-ids></axis><axis name="z2" type="Z" home-coordinate="0.0"><head-mountable-ids class="java.util.HashSet"><string>N2</string></head-mountable-ids></axis><axis name="Z3" type="Z" home-coordinate="0.0"><head-mountable-ids class="java.util.HashSet"><string>N3</string></head-mountable-ids></axis><axis name="Z4" type="Z" home-coordinate="0.0"><head-mountable-ids class="java.util.HashSet"><string>N4</string></head-mountable-ids></axis><axis name="C1" type="Rotation" home-coordinate="0.0"><head-mountable-ids class="java.util.HashSet"><string>N1</string></head-mountable-ids></axis><axis name="C2" type="Rotation" home-coordinate="0.0"><head-mountable-ids class="java.util.HashSet"><string>N2</string></head-mountable-ids></axis><axis name="C3" type="Rotation" home-coordinate="0.0"><head-mountable-ids class="java.util.HashSet"><string>N3</string></head-mountable-ids></axis><axis name="C4" type="Rotation" home-coordinate="0.0"><head-mountable-ids class="java.util.HashSet"><string>N3</string></head-mountable-ids></axis>So next I have to make a command for every nozzle into the subdriver section! I really do not understand this part. Can anyone explain to me the logic in this command?Here is what I know:G0 {X:X%.4f} {Y:Y%.4f} {Z:Z%.4f} {Rotation:C1%.4f} F{FeedRate:%.0f}G0 - move commandX:X%.4f should take the X axesY:Y%.4f should take the Y axesCan anyone write a simple example for my case? Because there is some information into the openpnp discusion group, but I am not very good in the stript, I really don`t understand their explanations...Do I have to add a subdriver for every nozzle?!Thanks!

author: pisoiu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2019, 07:59:33 pm
content: Try to raise this problem in openpnp group, the developers of openpnp are much more active there:https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/openpnp

author: stoyanoff
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2019, 07:12:44 am
content: Here is the complite procedure how it works:ClickThe main problem is I think those guys are quite ahead with the program and for newbees it is quite difficult to understand which comes after which. I think I explained how to achieve it as ditail as I can. If you do not follow the procure it doesn`t work...
High Voltage solder mask recomendations please - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rifkum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2019, 04:23:11 pm
content: Hey Group,I am trying to design a high voltage capacitor where the plates will be constructed out of layers of single sided FR4 or similar pcb material.I anticipate voltages from 1,000 to 5,000 volts RF and I want to try to prevent arcing.My question... are there certain types, colors or mixtures of solder mask that would have a higher dielectric strength to help prevent arcing?thanks for any guidancedwight

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2019, 06:24:47 pm
content: Gerally speaking solder mask is not regarded as any form of insulation. It can have pinholes (not so likely nowadays) but can be easily damaged. If I was doing this I would look at thin plastic sheeting that could be put between the PCB to whatever it could arc to. This sheet is available at quite high withstand rates

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2019, 09:30:09 pm
content: What Nelim said...check out mylar sheetYou could also consider fr4 thin laminate.You can purchase fr4 material only no copper .Seems like this might give You a good starting point.

author: rifkum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2019, 01:35:25 am
content: Iconic, Neilm,Thank you both for the feedback.This capacitor is going to be variable so the FR4 plates will be moving past each other.I think I need something that is not "flapping in the breeze" between the plates of the capacitor.After considering your comments, Kapton tape comes to mind as a 'possible' solution.Also just the inherent thickness of the FR4 as an insulating material may be sufficient.Until I do some more testing I won't know if I even need anything more that the FR4 material and whatever solder mask is applied to the boards.I plan on having an etched (no copper) margin around the perimeter of each 'plate' of the capacitor to also improve the gap distance between plates.My end goal and application is to build a type of "butterfly" capacitor for a magnetic loop antenna for amateur radio.thanks again for your input.Additional comments appreciated.dwight

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2019, 07:06:40 am
content: You can use transformer resin. But above 1000V it often requires vacuum depositing/impregnating and oven drying.You can also use insulating film used in transformers, this can be bought in large sheets you can cut to size.
buying ultra thin enameled copper wire - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tuvtuv
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2019, 03:13:07 pm
content: I need a supplier that sells 41AWG coated copper wire, or something with a diameter in the vicinity.I searched octopart, digikey and mouser, and the google, but cant seem to find one besides Aliexpress and Ebay.does anyone know where I can source the part?

author: spongle
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2019, 03:29:45 pm
content: https://www.remingtonindustries.com/magnet-wire/magnet-wire-41-awg-enameled-copper-6-spool-sizes/https://temcoindustrial.com/41-awg-copper-magnet-wire-5-lb-mw0574-magnetic-coil-red-soderon155.html

author: eliocor
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 04, 2019, 03:53:07 pm
content: https://www.wires.co.uk/acatalog/cu_enam.htmlhttps://www.scientificwire.com/index.html
nuts about bolts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: PerranOak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2019, 04:41:28 pm
content: I am looking for a countersunk head bolt, 2mm thread diameter, length 10-12mm with nut.I been all over and scrolled down a million list to find nothing.Any suggestions?Cheers.

author: Gribo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2019, 05:18:19 pm
content: This?https://www.fastenright.com/general-fixings/micro-six-lobe-torx-tx-countersunk/mf17

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2019, 09:49:10 pm
content: Mcmaster-Carr has a few optionshttps://www.mcmaster.com/screwshttps://www.mcmaster.com/92125a056

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2019, 11:02:28 am
content: Plenty of evilbay options. Try "M2 countersunk" and if you want to limit it add "screw" and not bolt.https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC0.A0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=m2+countersunk&_sacat=0

author: DenzilPenberthy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2019, 11:28:55 am
content: https://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Metric_Countersunk_Screws.htmlM2 12mm or 10mm is available in slotted or pozidrive.M2 nuts available here:https://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Home_Metric_HT_Bolts___Nuts__24.htmlKernow bys vyken, pard.

author: PerranOak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2019, 04:46:43 pm
content: Brill, thanks guys!Meur ras, Denzil.
Does anyone make fully transparent potting boxes? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2019, 09:48:11 am
content: Just for hobby use. At the moment I'm having to use empty shampoo bottles with the top cut off. A Google search found gel pre-filled boxes for electrical splices, but I just need empty boxes for potting. The whole thing needs to be transparent as my circuit contains an ambient light sensor.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2019, 10:11:03 am
content: If translucent will do then 3D printed to size is easy and will hold and bond with resin until cured. This rude Occi is about 0.8 Walls (also a layer of tinted glass) and some LED's drawing 5 or 6mA. The other is 6 3030 (roughly 10mA each) Led's shining through about 12mm of 3D print and infill so getting light through it doesn't take much. Different if you need to have variable source for your widget but for yes/no and close to the 0.4-0.8mm wall should be fine.The other fairly simple option for small volumes is look at Vacuum Forming your boxes. Plenty of how to's online but mine has been in mothballs for several years. Takes some gear to set up but it is quick and cheap for say a few dozen at a time.If you look for an already existing container make sure your resin is compatible and won't generate to much heat or shrinkage when curing.

author: forrestc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 02, 2019, 10:16:15 am
content: Quote from: e100 on October 02, 2019, 09:48:11 amYour description sounds like you might be more after a molded result instead of a potting box.Have you considered something like making a silicone mold to hold the potting compound until it sets, then pulling the set clear block out of the mold once done?

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2019, 11:11:56 am
content: Quote from: forrestc on October 02, 2019, 10:16:15 amI'm using self healing silicone gel for potting which is soft and remains permanently sticky so it needs some kind of external container to keep its shape and also make it easy to handle.
Neoden 4 Feed Issue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: itdontgo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2019, 03:52:30 pm
content: Hi,We're making a 6-up panel and it places everything fine. It all worked great for ages but suddenly it started to not feed new panels in. It checks the nozzles, moves to position to the feed point and then stops. The feed rollers never move. We have to reboot the whole machine to get it to feed again. After rebooting it's fine.Has anyone come across this issue?Michael

author: itdontgo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2019, 04:53:55 pm
content: A couple of panels later it stopped completely. The camera cable rubs against something on the machine and has cut through the cable.

author: GerardG
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2019, 02:38:55 pm
content: Do you still have this problem?
Stencil Cleaning - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Chad.Wagner
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2019, 04:37:40 am
content: Using lead paste. What is best for cleaning the stencils?

author: SMTech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2019, 09:59:41 am
content: Lint free cloth (solder paste makers often have fairly decent offerings here) and a solvent either IPA or a specific paste cleanser (which will probably be IPA with added magic) I can't make specific recommendations as we buy ours directly from the paste supplier. To improve on that you either need an ultrasonic bath big enough for your stencils or you can have a handheld ultrasonic unit.I would add however that standard "Blue Centrefeed" paper towels turn out to be remarkably lint free, more so than some proper "lint free" offerings.....

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 05, 2019, 01:57:22 pm
content: For cleaning stencils I use IPA and kimwipes, with paper towels on the bench to capture excess. I only do low volume, and use GC10 paste. Sometimes I'll also use Electrolube SSC if I think it needs extra cleaning, and some canned compressed air to ensure any small apertures are cleared.I don't think leaded/lead-free will make as much difference as the type of flux. I guess the two go hand-in-hand, but you'd need to be more specific about exact paste type if that is your concern.

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2019, 06:10:26 pm
content: I use PCB Board wash.. IPA does'nt clean up solder flux/paste particularly well.This stuff and hotwater. ( though i buy it in 20L drums ) is awesome..https://www.jaycar.co.nz/pcb-and-parts-wash-cleaning-solution/p/NA1070Ultrasonic is really the go, but you can do a lot with a air duster as well.

author: Styno
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2019, 10:14:11 am
content: Quote from: mrpackethead on November 07, 2019, 06:10:26 pmDo you reuse it? And if so, should it be filtered?

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2019, 06:28:41 pm
content: No I just spray some on, it’s like a strong detergent. Let it sit for a few minutes then wash down with Hotwater. It all goes out the drain

author: kylehunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2019, 06:36:11 pm
content: Quote from: mrpackethead on November 08, 2019, 06:28:41 pmI assume he means with leaded paste, since you're not flushing that down the drain!

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2019, 07:27:15 pm
content: Quote from: kylehunter on November 08, 2019, 06:36:11 pmI'm all Lead Free (Henkel GC10). Yes, if you were using lead paste, ( and arguably I should probably do this anyway ), it probably would be a good idea to think about it a bit more.

author: Styno
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2019, 10:04:42 pm
content: Quote from: kylehunter on November 08, 2019, 06:36:11 pmLead free actually, GC10.
Customised, wall mounted, Android tablet manufacturer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: colsramble
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 25, 2019, 12:20:02 am
content: Hi all,does anyone have recommendations or experience sourcing customised OEM Android tablets?I'm trying to find suppliers (preferably in Australia) for a customised, (flush) wall mounted 7-10" tablet that will become the hub for a home automation product.The tablet is essentially an upgrade to an existing custom LCD control panel that gets power (9-15v) and serial comms (RS485) from the rest of the system. Power supply is getting an upgrade so that can be changed to 48v PoE or something more generic.There's quite a few customisable android tablets on Alibaba etc. but they look pretty chunky and we really want to establish a relationship and reliable supply chain for around 2k units a year.I assume there will be some OS/software involvement as well to provide custom branding and ensure the core applications are started on power up, as well as disabling unwanted features.We're pretty lost, so any pointers, suggestions or thoughts are welcome!

author: Mangozac
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2019, 10:31:26 pm
content: I presume you've searched using the term 'HMI' (Human Machine Interface)? Flush mount generally isn't referred to as a tablet.

author: colsramble
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 26, 2019, 05:52:20 am
content: Ah, thank you!I hadn't tried 'HMI', and it does indeed throw up some different results that are better aligned with what we're after.

author: Mangozac
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2019, 05:56:05 am
content: Glad to help!
Large Current PCB connector? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Yizhou
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 10, 2019, 11:36:11 am
content: i have bought a high voltage DC-DC brick (AIF120F300) to generate 120A current.there are 4 copper pin to share current, and i have no idea to connect them with PCB.is there anyone can give me some suggestion?

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2019, 11:55:38 am
content: That module has a long and detailed data sheet, yet it says almost nothing about mounting the module. Module data sheets usually have detailed information about things like their tolerance to soldering conditions, as that is pretty important for a module that's soldered together inside.

author: Yizhou
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 10, 2019, 12:21:08 pm
content: you are pretty right.there is nothing about mouting the module in the datasheet. what interest me is the interval between two output pins, which is 5.08mm. It is just like a standard size.i need connect it to a thick wire, and fixed to a PCB board or a big hot sinker.

author: SMTech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2019, 12:30:07 pm
content: Well, its a beast isn't it. As a board mounted module you wouldn't really be looking at a connector, just soldering it directly to the board and sometimes you get advice on maximum per sin soldering times on such things, but not always and its not like manufactures are averse to hiding such things in a master document nobody knows how to find. Of course you'll need to do your sums for all your tracks & vias to handle that much power, if it suits you better, make a carrier board that breaks out the power pins to some screw terminals instead.

author: Yizhou
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 10, 2019, 12:32:21 pm
content: i found a 800A current module on youtube.there are a paire of connector linked to PCB，but i dont konw how the connector stick to PCB. do i need to customize a special connector? if so, it is diffcult for me.

author: Gribo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2019, 10:40:12 am
content: Screws, big screws.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2019, 11:49:27 am
content: ... and Belleville washers so the PCB substrate cold flowing doesn't reduce the screw's clamping pressure over time, causing it to loosen and burn up a few months or years later!

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2019, 07:07:37 pm
content: I had to bring 200 amps onto a PCB.Part of electric traction set up.Used brass inserts soldered into 4 ounce copper boardThe inserts were drilled and tapped so that cables could be attached.No damage to the board, Power Fets floated on pools of solder.
Assembly (PCBA) only companies, BYO PCBs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: loki42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2019, 07:59:51 am
content: So I can get good and cheap PCBs from a company I use regularly. I however want them assembled. Most PCBA places like PCBway quote with their boards as well. Do most of them accept boards from other companies? Are there pure PCBA only companies? If the specifics matter I'm looking for 250 units, 152 SMT parts 10 PTH 43 unique BOM.

author: SMTech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2019, 08:49:24 am
content: In the case of the PCB manufacturers who have bolted a PCBA service onto their offering, you can only ask, although I think PCBway's online tool lets you specify you will supply the PCB as the PCB section is optional, I would also expect the quoted price to change on review as it isn't asking how many THT joints there are (or any real detail) for instance. For every other service they would normally be quite happy to either source/manufacture the PCB themselves just as they can with the other components of the build. However if you are supplying those parts you should always make sure what you supply is compatible with the manufacturing process.Edit. Interestingly playing with PCBways form, they charge an instant premium for handling parts you kit to them, I guess that's fair enough as it is more work than working with their own stock. But then again the odds on them stocking everything you want on your build seem remote.
I messed up.... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lawrence11
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2019, 04:31:43 am
content: So I reflowed my first BGA in my reflow oven.Damnit, I'm like yeah it worked... Lets just see if I got a short...WTFSo now, I know this is removeable with a razor blade, but should I connect the L6 or leave it connected by the internal ground rails?Probing the bga upside down there is a short.....I have some think wire from desoldering braid and some copper foil/tape, about .003" thick.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2019, 05:17:37 am
content: Its connected internally anyway so don't worry. Trying to bodge wire it under the BGA just means more potential for the bodge to short something else.

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 23, 2019, 05:40:37 am
content: Quote from: Berni on September 23, 2019, 05:17:37 amAgreed in general, but OP should really specify what BGA part is involved.
Show me your PCB, okay? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bjdhjy888
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2019, 01:22:51 am
content: Sorry if there is already an existing thread on this topic. I did kindda searched but failed to find one.So I was curious to see you guy's PCB's, not 3D models on PC, but tangible ones in real life.Would you please post yours, like they did in this thread?https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/whats-your-work-benchlab-look-like-post-some-pictures-of-your-lab/750/Thanks!

author: lilstevie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2019, 07:35:08 am
content: Quote from: bjdhjy888 on September 20, 2019, 01:22:51 amI'd love to show the one I'm currently working on, but I don't think my client would be happy with me revealing their as of yet unannounced prototype
JLCPCB uCurrent and Slots - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: steve1515
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2019, 02:16:50 pm
content: I've used OSHPark a few times in the past for personal projects, but wanted to try out JLCPCB. This time, I wanted to try out a project that wasn't mine... Dave's uCurrent. The gerbers are here:http://www.eevblog.com/files/uCurrentRev5.zipI don't have Altium, but I know that there are slots in the PCB for the binding posts and LED. Does anyone know if JLCPCB would handle these correctly the way Altium does their slots? If I submit Dave's gerbers would I receive boards that are made correctly?Side Question: Anyone have any experience making their own uCurrent and fitting it in a Bud CU-1941 model box? It looks nearly identical to the one Dave uses on his BOM, but I can't find a datasheet on his JiffyBox that shows screw hole spacing, so I'm not sure.

author: Jannehrl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2019, 02:59:05 pm
content: The PCB of the Ucurrent is 79mm x 50mm.The holes are 5mm away from the sides. I think this is slightly different than in your proposed case, but you should check that again.I think its like 0.3 or 0.5mm difference to the PCB, so screwing into the plastic body should still be possible.And JLC is no different from other manufacturers, if they see that they are not able to manufacture something, they will tell you.A friend of mine had a bigger board in which he made many slots and JLC discussed the matter with him, because it was problematic for them to produce.

author: Jannehrl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2019, 03:09:33 pm
content: Also the Gerbers are correctly processed. There is always a preview picture if you upload the gerber.
RoHS REACH for a PCB Assembly - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: edba
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 02:13:02 pm
content: Hi allI have a PCB assembly and want to check if it meets the RoHS/REACH regulations. I believe the following to be true:1. PCBs are not treated as a homogenous material, therefore each component on the board needs to be RoHS compliant. I f any component on the board in non-RoHS, then that makes the whole board non-RoHS.2. For REACH the concentration levels are worked out for the whole board. Therefore if you had a component that contained an SVHC above 0.1%, then as long as the whole board SVHC for that material is below 0.1% then the board passes REACH.3. Should there be any conflict between RoHS and REACH, RoHS takes precedence.Hope somebody could confirm this. I was told that RoHS is worked out at the board level on the % weight of the whole board, but I believe this is being confused with REACH.

author: grifftech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2019, 03:43:39 pm
content: just don't sell to Europe.

author: teksturi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2019, 04:43:01 pm
content: Quote from: grifftech on September 16, 2019, 03:43:39 pmHow is this helpful? You do understand that person is living in UK.

author: Mangozac
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2019, 10:54:28 am
content: RoHS is definitely done at a component level (it's actually at the homogenous level - sub component - but in practice the component level is the lowest we can work with) and my understanding is that REACH is applied to the completed product.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2019, 12:13:07 pm
content: Quote from: edba on September 14, 2019, 02:13:02 pm1. True.2. Reach is typically not applicable to electronics assemblies, as it deals with all the other chemicals. So it is applicable to the glues, enclosures and stuff outside of PCBAs. So unless you use a ton of acidic glue in your doodad, I dont think REACH will ever be a problem, or should be even considered.3. Both is applicable, and there is no "law A beats B".Basically what you need to do:- Write a DoC, get it signed by boss- Have a BOM where you check that all component is RoHS- Have a DoC from your subcontractors who assemble things- Sit back and relax, because it is very unlikely you will ever need the latter two.But then again, IANAL.Quote from: grifftech on September 16, 2019, 03:43:39 pmYeah, because getting sued for using rounded rectangles is better. Or sending everything to FCC.

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2019, 06:43:41 pm
content: Quote from: NANDBlog on September 17, 2019, 12:13:07 pmReach applies if you are gluing your components to the board - used in some assembly techniques
Need help: First reflow with controleo3 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lawrence11
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 04:51:10 am
content: So This is a pretty dumb situation, I have a 3"x3.5" PCB, some leaded solder paste T4, 2 lead free bga chips, and a controleo3, wich I just finished testing, see my scoreI listened to the opinions of youtubers since I was too uncertain, now all the worlflow is fucke dup and I dont think digikey will accept a return, + I punched a whole in my template on that big bga spot.Bah whatever, next time I'll know ust go with lead free, I'll be happy to build this prototye then worry about this later.Heres my plan: So I have to put my 2xbga on the board, by hand as precisely as possible, I reflow with lead free high temp profile. Then I apply paste on 1 side, deposit all components with tweazers, reflow with low temp profile, apply paste on 2nd side, deposit component with tweazers, reflow with low temp profile again.It self calibrated or something since these variables are no way assessible, now I need set point program with timer of sort, to best emulate the recommended profile of manufacurers.Anybody get well tested profiles?BTW, heres my score!My door servo is setup like this, 0% nothing touches, 25% I begin to touch plate, 145% I am max open.

author: Gary.M
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 05:58:47 am
content: Its not clear what your question is.Have you run some test boards with the Controleo to see if the profiles provided work with your paste? Just a board with some passive parts and paste.You may have to edit one of the profiles to better suit your needs.Did you allow the oven to learn and calibrate with a blank pcb in the oven to simulate actual conditions?

author: lawrence11
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 06:03:38 am
content: Where are those profiles?Link?edit: I see now... he had the tiniest link LOL.Anyways, why would I need a fan? the guide never mentionned a fan...

author: Gary.M
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 08:21:54 am
content: Where did the question of a fan come from?You can build this based around a convection oven, and that has a fan. What oven did you use?Regarding profiles... You need to try to match what your paste's tech info tells you.These work very well, my oven with this controller is great.Sent from my MI 8 using Tapatalk

author: lawrence11
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 03:20:34 pm
content: I have a regular oven, black n decker.
OSHPark black PCB substrate - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: blueskull
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 06:29:11 pm
content: I hope I'm not the last one to know this, but I just found out OSHPark is now offering clear soldermask on black substrate service.If anyone wants a cool looking 2L board without spending $500+ for a fab to setup a new material, here's your chance.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 11:12:44 pm
content: I think dave would be a fan.Link:https://docs.oshpark.com/services/afterdark/Photos:https://twitter.com/oshpark/status/1170784817866321922https://twitter.com/helenleigh/status/1169631791952650242

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 07:20:46 am
content: That looks amazing.
Looking for 220VAC, 12-24VDC modul/block? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nardev
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 10:18:56 am
content: Hey guys. I'm looking for a single module, suitable for PCB, which has preferably small dimensions.I need something which can accept 220VAC/12-24VDC as input and give 5V as output.up to 0.5A output currentCouldn't find anything with google. The terms are too generic so it's hard to search for it because other usual modules overlaps.Any suggestion?

author: Gribo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 10:28:45 am
content: https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/power-supplies-board-mount/ac-dc-converters/923?k=PSK-S5BSearch for PCB mount AC to DC power supply.

author: Styno
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 12:23:53 pm
content: Look at something like MeanWell IRM-05-12 (110/230VAC to 12V/420mA DC) or IRM-03-12 (same but 250mA) or IRM-10-12 (same but 850mA). They cost less than $10 from e.g. Mouser.

author: nardev
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 12:48:07 pm
content: I'm so sorry, i was wrong about the description.I need something which can accept 220VAC/12-24VDC as input and give 5V as output.So the input can be AC or DC. That is the odd about what i need.p.s. i saw that shelly.coud devices, at least the version 1, can work that way.

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 01:19:33 pm
content: Try this as a starting point? Only goes down to 24V AC/DC input but it's on the right lines.AC 24-300V / DC 24-400V Extra Wide Input Voltage, 12V output, 5Whttps://tinyurl.com/y6map77o

author: spongle
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 01:30:23 pm
content: Sounds like a bad idea. Why not just have two separate power feeds?

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 01:38:45 pm
content: Those do not exist. We've been looking for them for over 20 years.Can you bypass the ac/dc when the ELV AC/DC is required? Feed it into a rectifier/filter and use a Recom 9-72V regulator as secondary.Those little things witd 7-240Vac/dc input often use a custom low power flyback topology. Sub 500mW low power.

author: nardev
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 11, 2019, 11:07:22 am
content: Quote from: Jeroen3 on August 29, 2019, 01:38:45 pmI guess your reputation on this forum puts my search to the endThank you@spongle wellWould be useful for some newer devices. So many things are merging and becoming more universal.People start to think about the hardware as if it is multi platform software : )

author: spongle
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2019, 02:51:22 pm
content: yeah I'd hate to be the tech having to wire up this thing that could be 5V or 240V
Mounting bracket for rounded alu-extrusion-enclosure - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Martin F
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2019, 12:02:04 pm
content: Hi all,We're selling a device with an extruded enclosure similar to this model:http://www.everestcase.com/en/productsdetail.asp?pid=1925For this device, we're looking to develop/source a mounting bracket that could be installed in e.g. a wall, metal plate or similar.The idea would be to have our enclosure be "clicked into" the mounting bracket and optionally locked in via strips. We're thinking that the rounded shape of the enclosure could facilitate such a setup.I've attached a sketch of the idea here:https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1WNLvmr27Pbdbj_wmYbMJ6Locu1I-Defsg002yGKMavM/edit?usp=sharingOur challenge is that we've looked for a long time - but we've not been able to find anything that matches our needs in this regard.Has anybody seen a similar construction as to what we're looking for? We could embark on designing it ourselves, but we'd rather see if something similar already exists.Thanks,Martin
Will HDI be affordable any time soon? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TimCambridge
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2019, 12:09:27 pm
content: I would expect that a capital-intensive laser drilling line is a plausible investment for one of the big board houses, but I haven't seen HDI prices moving down.Should I keep looking?

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2019, 12:34:22 pm
content: Laser drilling on standard PCBs will probably happen before full HDI boards get cheaper.There's a lot of benefits from getting 0.1mm via's on a normal spec'ed PCB.It's probably not that difficult to upgrade an existing 4/4mil PCB fab line (maybe even 5/5) to include a laser drill stage.

author: TimCambridge
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2019, 10:12:51 am
content: Quote from: Psi on September 08, 2019, 12:34:22 pmWould that be blind drilling between an (outer) layer 1 and copper on layer 2? That can be done after layer bonding; it sounds like an economical solution for the manufacturer and it would be terrific for simplifying layout. Perhaps it's available already in some corner of the market.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2019, 10:16:58 am
content: i was just meaning really tiny vias.but yes, maybe buried/blind vias too, within some rules.It would have to make sense given how they already assemble the substrate layers.
TME - do they re-reel? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 06:14:52 pm
content: It's not clear from their website and sadly their phone lines are closed right now.Does anyone know if TME re-reels any orders of passive parts? And if there is a minimum quantity?My assembler requires components on reels for the PNP machine.

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 06:22:48 pm
content: I don't think they do, I have been buying there for many years and never seen anything.What part are you looking for?

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 06:26:44 pm
content: Just lots of passive parts, 0603 and 0402 capacitors, etc.I will probably order from Newark as they do free re-reeling right now. A lot of lines, so £4/reel fee from Farnell, Digikey, etc adds a lot to the order.

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 11:41:17 pm
content: check out prices onhttps://lcsc.com/they are so competitive you might be able to afford a full reel
Vias, Annular Rings on All Layers or Just Some Layers? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TinyMirrors
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2019, 07:25:40 pm
content: For vias, are the annular rings only for the layers which you would like to connect? If this is true, can I remove the annular ring for layers the via doesn't connect to gain extra clearance or move traces just a bit closer to the via?For example, routing a signal from the top layer to layer 3, would layer 2 and the bottom layer need a ring as well? I have no idea what happens in the manufacturing of boards for this.I'm trying to route a bga for the first time, and I've never thought about what annular rings on vias are actually for. If I leave them, I don't have room to route. It seems like Altium allows you to choose the annular ring size per layer.I'm trying to route a 0.8mm xilinx fpga bga with 4mil traces and 0.2mm vias. I need a 6 mil annular ring by manufacture's spec for lower cost boards. If I use the advanced production the boards cost twice as much.Thanks for the help guys!Here's the settings for a via in Altium.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2019, 11:03:24 pm
content: It's done automatically at output generation.If you absolutely, positively need the extra clearance from removing copper on that layer, you can do this.You shouldn't set the clearance (from unconnected copper to hole) less than 10 mils (0.25mm) or so, otherwise you run the risk of drill plus layer alignment errors causing shorts. Your board fab will charge extra as a result.Tim

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2019, 11:06:23 pm
content: Quote from: TinyMirrors on August 21, 2019, 07:25:40 pmyep, that's normal for getting extra room to run tracks under a bga
Laser exposure toolchain for NEGATIVE film and VECTOR artwork - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: khessels
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 15, 2019, 05:45:30 pm
content: When using your 3d printer for laser exposing the artwork, i can find several solutions, like for instance flatcam, (requires positive film)or even bit-mapped solutions for negative film, but the result is just not great to say the least.Is there a solution out there that can do vector etching for negative film ?I also tried inkscape, but converting svg positive to negative seems not to work at all...
Entry Level Manual Paste Printers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TimCambridge
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2019, 11:46:24 pm
content: Basic manual paste printers that can handle boards the size of a sheet of paper (approx 300x200mm) all seem to cost around $100, with a shipping charge of around $100 if you buy on AliExpress.With what looks like similar features and such close pricing, how do I choose? What are the things I should look out for, the things I should avoid?

author: SMTech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2019, 11:51:45 am
content: When I've looked they mostly appear to be one of two designs, super basic where the platform is literally shoved side to side with some bolts (and you could just as well copy at home with some MDF or aluminum tooling plate) and the slightly better one with the holes in the table that people like Neoden sell with their name on. I don't think its even fair to call this level of device a printer, its a stencil frame clamp/hinge with "adjustment".The most apparently advanced "manual" printer I could find on Ali last time I looked was from Termway/Torch and called something like the T1100.In the ideal world you want vertical separation & some kind of rail the squeegee assembly rides on, but you don't see that in any budget offerings. In fact they cost so much you could probably pay someone to build it for you.
Dupont Riston DLI 8000 dry film resist - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: khessels
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 13, 2019, 01:11:24 am
content: Does anyone know where i can get this film in the US or Europe ?I tried Dupont them self for a dealer nearby, but i feel my phantom beard growing...

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2019, 07:09:43 pm
content: Quote from: khessels on August 13, 2019, 01:11:24 amCheck with Think & Tinker (https://www.thinktink.com/) that's where I get my Riston. I use their Riston 4615 material, and don't know what is different about the DLI8000.Jon
T962 Oven, Free, Cambridge, England [update: gone] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TimCambridge
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2019, 10:20:45 am
content: I bought a T962 years ago. I'll never get round to using it so it's available for free. Includes a couple of replacement heater elements. It should work, but it hasn't been powered on for ages.Collect from Cambridge, England.PM me if interested.Edit: The T962 has now gone to a new home.
reel + tape holders for manual pick and place? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: djacobow
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2019, 07:05:35 pm
content: I bought these reel & tape holders to help speed up my very amateur human powered pick and place setup. At least I don't have to keep reaching for a baggies.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727SJT67/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1Construction is complete garbage but they do the business and the price is right. Beware sharp edges all around. Definitely spend some quality time with a file.The biggest drawback is that they only hold 8mm tapes.Does anybody else know of something similar that can hold wider reels? I'm willing to pay more but not thousands.