hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Dried Carrier tape for leaded capacitors/resistors, how to remove it ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2018, 02:22:48 pm
content: Hello everybody, I have some leaded parts on some kind of carrier tape of looks like a plasticized paper or something.The problem is the bloody thing is dried and really difficult to remove form the terminals, I have really pull it hard or if I cut it around the terminals, it leaves a gooey residue that doesn't go away.The question is, it there something that can soften this stuff, water, IPA or something else, that doesn't damage the parts but let me remove the tape without too much pulling and scratching ?Cheers,DC1MC

author: rickmoll
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 02, 2018, 08:15:49 pm
content: I usually just cut off the part of the lead that has the carrier tape attached.But acetone will soften the dried adhesive and let you remove it pretty easily. Here in the US, you can get 100% acetone sold as "Nail Polish Remover".Some folks use acetone to clean off flux residue, so I think "most" components are not damaged by acetone. Although I pretty certain that some plastic parts, like a polystyrene cap would most likely be melted.Rick

author: cvanc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2018, 08:26:26 pm
content: A) Acetone will definitely melt polystyreneB) Another possible solution are the citrus-based cleaners like 'Goo Gone'. They work very well for dried tape adhesive.Good luck.
Roberts DAB radio ECOLOGIC4  /  RD21 / RD-21 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rh100605
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2018, 12:00:07 pm
content: I have bought one of these radios as faulty. The symptoms are that the display works correctly but there is no sound. A google search suggested two faults. Firstly the earphone socket switch and secondly the final audio amplifier. As there was a smell of overheated pcb and repeated insertion of a 3.5mm plug into the earphone socket made no difference, I opened the radio up.The final audio amplifier is the CD8227/ TA8227p with a heatsink soldered over it. The series pass transistor (2s)d882 was very warm and had no heat sink, hence the smell.The 8227 amplifier is specified at 12V DC but has a maximum of 15 to 20 Volts depending on manufacturer.The supply was before the pass transistor was 20.8V and 19.8 after. I replaced the audio chip but noticed that the 19.8v was applied even in standby and was also used for the on/off logic Flip Flop CD4013 which is also known to fail.I could have used 6 or 7 silicon diodes, in series, after the bridge rectifiers to "loose" 4 to 5 volts but these are bulky and would have to dissipate upto 5 watts.I therefore looked for a high speed switching regulator to place between the power supply board and the radio. The small mp1584 buck 1.5MHz regulator boards on Ebay seemed small enough to place on edge next to the main smoothing capacitor on the ps board and are fully adjustable.I drilled two holes in the radio power supply board next to the smoothing capacitor and cut the Positive track between the bridge rectifier output and the two Schottky blocking diodes used to allow battery operation. Ithen installed a wire from the new regulator + output to the blocking diode input and connected the supply ground and positive through the board to the regulator inputs.This all worked brilliantly (no interference on the radio) when set at 12v and was very low cost....I have since installed these regulators on two more radios that had "On/Off switch failure" which is in fact normally the 4013 flip flop failing. I used the Chip Quik SMD Removal Kit (Farnell 1850218) to remove them cleanly and solder wick to clean up.The 4013 from NXP will tolerate up to 15V (Not 19.8v) but 12v is safer. Measuring the preset pot on the MP1584 regulator after setting would allow you to replace it with a smd resistor to ensure longer life.
ThreeBond 1530C availability - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: xavier60
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2018, 02:03:03 am
content: Does anyone else use this product and know how to easily get it?https://www.tablazat.hu/images/upload/products/427_1530c.pdfMy cousin gets it for me on trips to Thailand in the retail carded form,https://glasscoatingclub.com/drthreebondIt's my go to general purpose adhesive, really good for tacking down PCB components.

author: xavier60
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2018, 10:15:49 pm
content: ThreeBond TB1530C has recently become available on ebay.https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/173574615577?ul_noapp=true
What the hell Latvia is? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: In Vacuo Veritas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 03:47:38 pm
content: I was looking at countries and I don't understand what Latvia is. Besides a little independence thing in 1990, I haven't heard about it.Does it really exist? If so, what's so great about it?

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 04:17:51 pm
content: This is Latvia:https://goo.gl/maps/Zc937WMhTmS2You're welcome.// stupid questions, stupid answers.

author: Tom45
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 04:19:48 pm
content: Latvia is there to keep Estonia and Lithuania company.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 04:28:30 pm
content: Yes, many people are ignorant about other countries. Don't parade your ignorance.

author: drussell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 04:29:26 pm
content: I think that was anattemptat tongue-in-cheek humour byIn Vacuo Veritasregarding the JBC thread.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 04:31:08 pm
content: Ever heard about the country Tannu Tuva?

author: bsfeechannel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 04:40:26 pm
content: I knew at least three Latvians. Two of them were immigrants. One of them is a sales representative from a Latvian company that sells products made in China.Latvian is an Indo-European Language, like English, French, Russian, Italian, Persian, Hindi, etc.The two immigrants I mentioned talked in Latvian with their children and grand-children, so I had an opportunity to listen to how Latvian sounded long before the Internet made information widely available.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 05:41:24 pm
content: OK Vacuos, I'm giving you 3 days off from the forum, maybe you can use it to update your geography!
Teardown: EVGA Supernova 650 G3 ATX PSU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2018, 01:06:31 pm
content: I was recently asked by the staff at overclockers.com if I was interested in reviewing an ATX PSU and of course I was. They sent a review sample that I could tear down and keep, see the link for the full article:https://www.overclockers.com/evga-supernova-650-g3-review/That site's layout seems to have not been updated in well over a decade and is apparently designed for ancient 480p displays, so I'll attach the 1080p PCB images. I really think the layout should be redesigned to auto fit to the browser window, with the ability to click on a picture to expand it to original size. High resolution pictures are pretty important for teardowns.

author: m98
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2018, 03:26:34 pm
content: A PSU named "Supernova", what could go wrong?

author: lordvader88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 08:50:43 am
content: Thats a different looking PSU for sure. Not have 2 or 3 main heatsinks across the witdth of the PCB. Very boxy transformer too.IDK about the 650W models but some of the 750 and 850W gold rated supernova models are top notch, can't remember who they contracted for it, but overall very good from what I've read.

author: lordvader88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 11:16:41 am
content: Hmmm, custom chips, so far the PSUs I'm working on all have CM6800 for PFC and PWM, and various clones of 4 channel supervisor ICs like PS229I'm scratching my head on a TX650W right now, it just cycles on/off/on/off like clockwork... and I don't know why. And I don't know the inner workings of the PS229 well enough to know if some voltage spikes are tripping the OV/UV. So I'm just continuing to map out the whole PSU, learning as I go.
Andonstar 301 microscope LED Buck converter / PWM problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lordvader88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2018, 06:29:09 am
content: The microscope is working great. However I noticed the 2 'outboard' LEDs on the stand, flicker when the scope is turned on. It's close to 60Hz. Them and the scope can be powered from the USB 5V rail of a computer. So I was worried it was my 850W psu, but it's not.A USB cable plugs into the PC (or any other 5V supply w/ USB plug). It doesn't use the data lines, just 5V and GND. That enters a little controller with a power button, and a plus/minus button for the 2 LEDs that are on the stand. Leaving the controller is pwr for LEDs and also pwr for the scope.So looking at the pwr to the LEDs on an oscilloscope, I realized there's some type of buck converter or PWM inside the controller. There's ringing happening, and a bunch more noise happening, not from my PC. The voltage jumps by a few tenths of a volt. At the highest LED setting, it's not so bad, a few millivolts. But at lower settings, and when the mircoscope is turned on, the voltage jumps up/down a few decivolts (tenths of volts). I don't remember the freq but around 80HzThere's a 8pin DIP in there with no marking on it, and 2 transistors, 5 resistors, and only 1 little SMD capacitor, and no external inductor.So now to figure out what it does and how to filter out the crap, or disable it or make something better.Well at least it's not my PC or the microscope thats the problem.
Glasses to dim bright LED lights? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2018, 08:47:35 pm
content: I'm looking to inspect some LED lights under max brightness (100W LED) without going blind and sunglasses/red glasses for laser light don't block out enough light to make it comfortable for viewing bright lights so what would you recommend for my needs?Will welding glasses block out the light? I want to be able to see the strips of light to see which ones are damaged.

author: Bratster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2018, 01:06:58 am
content: Quote from: drummerdimitri on October 17, 2018, 08:47:35 pmWelding goggles would definitely work, you just have to be careful with what shade you get so it's not too dark.Something intended for oxy-acetylene welding or plasma cutting would probably be okay.Sent from my Fi Moto x4 using Tapatalk

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2018, 02:22:59 am
content: I think I would engineer a camera arrangement to achieve the same result. No reason to risk damage to your eyes or limit yourself to the visible spectrum.

author: thermistor-guy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2018, 02:57:09 am
content: Quote from: drummerdimitri on October 17, 2018, 08:47:35 pmI'd check out laser safety glasses that have sufficiently high Optical Density (O.D.) in the wavelengths of your application. Assuming you are looking at "white" LEDs with a strong blue component, then maybe the LG10 or LG12 from Thorlabs to block blue and blue-green wavelengths:https://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=762.Thorlabs should be able to help you, if you can provide some spectral data for the LEDS in question.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2018, 03:51:57 am
content: Quote from: Nusa on October 18, 2018, 02:22:59 amA pinhole camera projecting onto a paper screen works surprisingly well, and in fact is one suggested cheap and safe way to view a solar eclipse.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2018, 11:02:04 am
content: Or if you already have a camera suitable for this type of inspection, you could put a neutral density filter on it and use that.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2018, 01:36:02 am
content: Gas welding googles likethesewould be ideal. Standard inexpensive 2 x 4-1/4 inch shaded welding lenses can be used but I am not sure what grade would be suitable for bright LEDs. Or you can go for gas welding googles for extra style.I used googles like these to watch the last eclipse. Do *not* use them for arc welding as they do not protect your entire face from ultraviolet light like a welding mask does.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2018, 08:40:28 am
content: I second the camera setup, no reason to risk your eyes with experiments.Glasses that are lcd dimmable probably will cost more
Weller Dual Soldering Station DEC1001 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: avvidclif
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2014, 07:36:16 pm
content: My old Weller DEC1001 has decided to not work correctly and I'm looking for a replacement. Parts are no longer available and it seems Weller doesn't make one like it any more. I like it because of the reduced real estate it takes up on the bench.I ordered a WES51 as they use the same tips as the older ones. I just wish they made a dual station WES51.Any ideas or thoughts?

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2014, 08:35:34 pm
content: Repair it? Most Weller stations I saw from the inside had standard ic's and components.

author: w9gb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2018, 12:04:13 am
content: Cliff -Just saw you post. As I remember, the original control board was the “ceramic substrate” version used in EC1001 model. Most common problem is hairline cracks of traces, as underlying ceramic substrate cracks.I have a refurbished Weller DEC1001 station — that I am finishing for the auction site.Let me know, I have other “dual handpiece” Weller stations.Your “ideal” solution would be the Silver Series WSL2 or WS-161 station. It supports your earlier DEC1001 handpieces (EC-1201A, EC1302B) and the new 80 watt WSP80 iron.Peggy Grady in Tempe, AZ is selling NOS Weller WSL2 base unit (equivalent to WS-161 model).I picked one up (I prefer LED instead of LCD), and it arrived in original Weller box !https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Weller-WSL2-Dual-Digital-Soldering-Station-120V-50-60HZ/332357136893Weller WSL2 / WS161 Product sheethttp://www.testequipmentdepot.com/weller/pdf/wsd161_wsl2.pdfGregw9gb
Anyone use Chemtool Flux Cleaner in their Ultrasonics? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fleetz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2018, 08:33:29 pm
content: Looking for a flux cleaner for the ultrasonic bath I have just purchased. Doesn’t seem to be a great selection of flux cleaning solutions available here in Australia?Anyone used Chemtools Flux cleaner in their ultrasonic baths?http://www.chemtools.com.au/product/electrical-electronics/electronics-cleaning-chemicals/pcb-flux-remover/Any other recommendations would be appreciated too.
Weller 9400 or 8200 Soldering Gun - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Johnny2Bad
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 29, 2018, 06:00:39 pm
content: Cooper Tools / Weller is discontinuing the venerable Weller 8200 100/140 Soldering Gun, and replacing it with a new model 9400.Broadly speaking, they seem equivalent ... minor functional differences seems to be limited to a 3-LED lamp vs the single bayonet lamp to illuminate the work. The gun is much more ergonomically designed, and claims a 6 second heat time but that is about all you can find without actually using the gun.Anyone have experience with both? I don't remember how long the heat time was for my old 8200 which has disappeared somewhere, but it wasn't long. I do remember the 30 second / 5 minute duty cycle though.There are still some NOS 8200's for sale, at reasonable prices. The 9400 is a bit cheaper, but not by enough to make a difference if there is any quality or functional difference between them. I have a HAKKO for lighter duty stuff, but sometimes you need to throw some heat on the subject.Comments?
Anybody try removing QFP with Quick 957DW+ or have any experience with the unit? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2018, 06:06:14 am
content: Hi all,I've seen some posts on the Quick 951D/DW/DW+ rework stations, including some great teardown info from blueskull in nidlaX's review... but I haven't seen anything talking about whether and/or how well the product works.I'm looking for an inexpensive station to occasionally remove some smd micro switches, 8-pin soic chips, and maybe a QFP-112 (20x20mm-ish) chip or two.The unit comes with 3 nozzles and they do sell a 20x20 QFP nozzle too - does anybody have any positive or negative related experience they can share?(also, I do know the 861 is better, and I may go that route but I'm not going to use this thing that often)Thanks,Tom

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2018, 06:22:51 pm
content: Almost any station will do for "occasionall" work and the chips you are saying.About custom nozzles i'm a bit lazy and i always use the same round 8mm nozzle, you can do almost everything with it.I have the 861DW, great machineI find it easy to remove plastic parts like switch, FPC, etc without melt them, 280-300ºc is good for me. Also it can rework big BGA chips, i have done some CPU replacements on TV mains, still a preheater for big chips are recommended.BGA with critical nearby chips with underfill are also kinda of easy, just protect what you need, blast it a max. airflow (120) at 320-330ºc. It will desolder lead free BGA without mess with other area. This work with iPhone which have big thermals

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 12, 2018, 06:30:04 pm
content: You'd be able to remove those packages without any special nozzles.
Torch T200N versus other reflow options? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: magicsmoke
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2018, 04:07:43 am
content: I found a few user reviews of the Torch T200N reflow oven (http://www.torchsmt.com/Desk-type-reflow-oven-pl7045.html) that seem quite positive. Could anyone compare this reflow other options such as a modified T962A or the newer T962C. I was also looking at the fully pre-assembled Whizoo Control Leo3 reflow oven ready to run (http://www.whizoo.com/buy). I need to reflow some larger boards over 10 cm x 10 cm and looking for a reflow oven option that isn't going to take any time to modify or hack to get acceptable performance.
Component identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Floopy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2018, 05:05:18 pm
content: I'm sorry if this is another one of those "what is it?" post, but I really have no clue and it's intriguing me.I found this in my "unknown box". It's some kind of transistor? Does anyone know what it could be? I can't see any markings on it.I also have a connector I need to find another one. Does anyone know the name of it?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2018, 06:26:39 pm
content: Transistor is the sensor for a passive Infra red sensor, basically a Jfet with the gate coupled to the output of a pair of IR thermodetectors, behind a germanium window.

author: Floopy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2018, 09:16:55 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on September 30, 2018, 06:26:39 pmWow I would have never guessed. I'll try using it, I'm wondering if it's sensible enough to see infrared emotions from something like a body.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2018, 09:20:42 pm
content: No, it's looking for rapid changes. those sort of PIR detectors normally have a segmented Fresnel lens in front of them to detect movement (by causing transitions).

author: PointyOintment
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2018, 03:30:49 am
content: Quote from: Floopy on September 30, 2018, 09:16:55 pmDo a search for something like 'PIR motion circuit'; there should be plenty.
Tool Box Soldering Iron. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 12:03:53 am
content: any recommendations for a soldering iron to put in your toolbox to take where ever. I have Hakko FX-951's on my benches, but i'm struggling to find something comparable that is easily trasnsportable.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 04:23:53 am
content: To do what kind of job? I survived for years with a mains iron and a butane/gas iron doing general soldering.

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 05:28:40 am
content: Just general in teh field repairs and jobs like put connector on cable perhaps.

author: boffin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 05:34:05 am
content: If you're looking for a cheap, mains-powered iron, try the Yihua 947-II. Under $20, so cheap enough that if it gets destroyed in your toolbox you won't cry.

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 05:42:03 am
content: Happy to pay up to $150 for someothing decent.

author: rjp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 05:46:57 am
content: the ts-80, ts-100 things are the trendy ones right now.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-1114-new-ts80-usb-soldering-iron-review/

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 05:47:19 am
content: I got one of these for my portable tool kit. I like it so much, I am ordering another one.https://www.amazon.com/Sywon-Soldering-Switch-Temperature-Adjustable/dp/B01N4571Q6

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 10:25:45 am
content: Hakko FX-600 is mains powered temp adjustable iron and takes a large range of the standard T18 tips. You can also get the conversion sleeve to run high thermal capacity tips or buy the Hakko FX-601 which comes like that. This is like the portable version of the iron that comes with the FX-888.Dremel Versatip (which I own) runs on butane/gas which has a few different tips for soldering, hot air, gas torch etc.Should be able to get both of these tools for $150 combined.
CAT IV rated flashlights from Fluke?!? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2018, 02:19:41 pm
content: Well, not CAT IV but that is something I haven't seen from Fluke. I guess they are diversifying...www.fluke.com/en-us/product/intrinsically-safe/fl-150-ex

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2018, 03:16:48 pm
content: They say it's rugged but it manages to look incredibly cheap (shiny plastic) at the same time. I guess that's the penalty for having to make it out of plastic for the Cat rating.As far as I can see, the only noticable feature is the little screw, engaging with the slots in the clear bit, that stops you being able to unscrewing the top.I guess if it's intrinsically safe it probably has a decent O ring and maybe a magnet and reed switch for the actuator (or a possibly a simple rubber membrane).That circular orange bit on the side is probably e a safety vent of some type.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2018, 03:59:19 pm
content: Good observations. I don't have necessarily a particular objection towards the color - after all, it needs to be visible from afar.In my experience, however, the sliding button with its internal sliding blade contacts are a massive source of problems - I would have rather a clicking quality button (just like the onesfeatured in Maglites).

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2018, 05:13:53 pm
content: Those are intrinsically safe lamps, meant for use in explosive atmospheres. Not CAT something. Different safety standard ...They are meant to be used in same places as Fluke 28 II Ex meter and other tools for dangerous places.Funny, pretty much all Ex standard Flashlights I've seen look equally cheap. It must be material, it has to be material that will not ignite explosive atmosphere if dropped or if you hit something with it.Also, switches should have limited arcing... Nobody is really trying to be creative, just to pass safety standards..

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2018, 06:35:29 pm
content: Quote from: 2N3055 on October 10, 2018, 05:13:53 pmYeah, I know. I was just being silly...

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2018, 08:26:29 pm
content: Quote from: rsjsouza on October 10, 2018, 06:35:29 pmI know YOU knowTake care!Siniša

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2018, 10:01:30 pm
content: Yes, I know too, though the thread title did throw me briefly, looking at the picture not the spec.

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2018, 10:08:02 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on October 10, 2018, 10:01:30 pm
Searching a powerful (NiMh) battery charger - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: manu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2018, 08:47:01 am
content: Hi,I have 24V (20S) NiMh battery packs (from 10 Ah to 30 Ah).I cannot find a reasonably powerful (250W-300W) battery charger for this kind og capacity.My Graupner Polaron Pro charger limits the battery profile at 9900 mAh for the NimH (kinda stupid, ...)Most of the cheap battery chargers allow 1-15S cells. When they are designed for 20S (24V) or more, they are ridiculously weak (10-50W).So if you know professional (or not) equipment for 24V 20S NiMh in the 250-300W+ range, let me know!Thanks!
ZD-8915 Desoldering Station - Anyone own one? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 10, 2018, 11:23:22 am
content: Just picked up a ZD-8915 from eBay was sold under the Katsu brand (I think these are just a UK Importer/Distributor)Worked out cheaper than the ZD-915/ZD-985 based models.So far really impressed with it, the supplied mains cable is of decent quality, it feels silicone and is wired correctly!These seem to be an upgraded version of the ZD-985, the gun is 90w and slightly different.Noticed a strange peculiarity, I can hear subtle beeps from the gun itself, it's either in time with the heating PWM or the micro, I think it might be the Sleep sensor.Anyone else noticed this, have a listen to your gunI'm curious to know if they are all the same.

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2018, 02:52:05 pm
content: Not to me. It's silent if idle or heating up.This cheap guns are good for the price, but i fell a lack of suction power

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 10, 2018, 03:22:46 pm
content: No issue with suction power here, is yours a 7 or 6 pin plug on the Gun?Put your ear next to the gun and see if it makes any noises as it heats up if it's not too much trouble

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 08:07:06 pm
content: Quote from: TheBay on October 10, 2018, 03:22:46 pm6 pin.Yes it does noise, like "ziiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii..."

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 11:33:53 pm
content: Quote from: sn4k3 on October 11, 2018, 08:07:06 pmThanks for checking, how strange, well that rules out the sleep sensor as mine is the 7 pin version.I'm interested if the ZD-915/ZD-985 do it too and I wonder what is causing it, it could be the heater element resonating but it sounds like its further down in the gun.

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2018, 06:13:46 pm
content: Quote from: TheBay on October 11, 2018, 11:33:53 pmDidn't know theres two versions of this station with 6 and 7 pin.The noise is maybe from switching power, for me is not a trouble since i don't use often.Since gun is connected to station noise can be redirected to the gun as it create a chamber

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 12, 2018, 07:47:11 pm
content: Quote from: sn4k3 on October 12, 2018, 06:13:46 pmYeah the 7 pin model sleeps after 10 minutes of not moving the gun, it drops the temp to 200c.No it's not coming from the base unit, I'll strip my gun apart at some point and find out what it is.

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 14, 2018, 03:38:38 pm
content: Seems the ZD-985 does it too, you can hear it in this video:https://youtu.be/xWAwaBHbn04?t=1377
Any recommendations for a PCB stand? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dicky96
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2018, 09:57:52 am
content: Hi guysSo I'm looking for a PCB stand to hold the board for hot air reworkI'm also after buying a preheater and having done a lot of reading around it seems the hot air ones are better than infrared so I quite fancy the Quick 853https://www.aliexpress.com/premium/quick-853.html?d=y&blanktest=0&origin=y&SearchText=quick+853&tc=ppc&initiative_id=SB_20181007014855&isViewCP=y&catId=0or one of the cheaper clones such ashttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/853B-220V-540W-preheating-station-BGA-recovery-station-for-BGA-PCB-Preheating-heating-desoldering-Hot-air/32833389729.html?spm=2114.search0204.3.2.60e913e8k4kVVG&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10068_318_10547_5727315_10548_10696_10084_10083_10618_452_10307_10820_532_10821_10301_10303_5727215_204_10059_10884_10887_100031_10103_5727015,searchweb201603_60,ppcSwitch_0_ppcChannel&algo_expid=7b597491-b74a-45f1-afaf-3bb187d76811-0&algo_pvid=7b597491-b74a-45f1-afaf-3bb187d76811&priceBeautifyAB=0if they are basically the sameStrange though i can't find any reviews of these under board hot air preheaters, only IR ones. Does that mean i am wroing and no-one really used them?I also saw the Zephytronics airbath and they are not stupid expensive if they are as good as they claim... until you try to buy one outside of the USA! Because let's face it the whole world is the USA and the rest of us are just third world back waters.Anyway, back to PCB stands for use with this type of preheater. The PCBs am mostly repairing are things like Set top box boards, TV TCON and TV mainboards, and stuff like that. I have on occasion wanted to rework laptop motherboards. So someting that would hold up to the size of a desktop PC motherboard would be plenty big enough for me.Looking for a stand that is adjustable and easy/quick to set upWhat do you recommend?CheersRich
TS100 behaving weird in power monitor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Curious2know
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2018, 07:36:13 pm
content: Hi,so I've flashed Ralim firmware on my TS100 today and I wanted to test how much power it draws when doing the wet sponge test. I got one of these wallplug power monitors where I plugged my 24V PSU in. When heating up to 320°C for the first time I can see the iron draws up to 80 Watt. Now when I put the tip in a wet sponge and I can see the temperature dropping slightly on the display of the iron, the power draw jumps to 0W. As soon as it reaches 320°C again, the power monitor shows values between 5W and 10W.Can someone explain why it jumps to 0W?
Storing fully charged electrolyic capacitors, yay or nay ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2018, 09:54:49 am
content: Hello, I have a number of hi-power/hi-voltage elcos ( i.e. 2200uF/300V 1000uF/400V), and I was wondering if it's a good idea, for limiting the degradation and loses, to store them charged at nominal voltage (I've also heard that this is also a measure to restore them after long term not used).Also for other hi capacity elcos, not necessarily high voltage (63V, 40V and so on).There is none in the house that have access to them and I have a nice box with a skull and bones lid.Thanks,DC1MC

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2018, 01:04:07 pm
content: I don't see what would be the point - the capacitor will self discharge after a while anyway, so you won't protect it for long. However, you will have a lethal hazard while there is still a significant charge on it instead. Lethal not because someone will act stupid but accidents and brainfarts do happen - such as dropping a screwdriver on the terminals.Really really bad idea, IMO. There are good reasons why any well constructed high voltage gear has bleed resistors over the caps.Reforming the capacitors after they haven't been used for a long time is a standard procedure that has nothing to do with the way you store them.

author: schmitt trigger
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2018, 01:35:13 pm
content: Agree with the assessment that a capacitor, specially a higher voltage one, should be discharged before storing.Also, old capacitor reforming is a good idea. All that needs to be done is a suitable voltage supply, and a series resistor to limit the current to whatever safe value you determine.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2018, 01:40:53 pm
content: Related topic:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/does-shorted-electrolytic-cap-will-shorten-its-shelf-life/

author: dmills
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2018, 10:16:33 pm
content: I always store any high voltage cap worthy of the name with a shorting wire in place.Not too much of an issue with Elcos, but a nice beefy film cap can have enough dielectric absorption to give a surprisingly decent belt a week after it has gone on the shelf if you don't take measures to prevent it (This also goes (in spades!) for piezo ceramic hydrophones and the like.Regards, Dan.
Metcal talon 500 series for lead free smd's? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: hhhh
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2018, 02:41:49 pm
content: Hi!Are Metcal talon 500 series tips good for lead free smd's?, or sould I try to find 600 series instead?

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2018, 03:01:21 pm
content: No - at least 600, probably 700.

author: hhhh
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2018, 03:14:03 pm
content: Thanks!I think talon tatc tips only go to 600
TL866 CS- Universal Programmer:   Unknown Error Programming 2716 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: billsacto
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 03, 2017, 07:48:54 am
content: Hi,Another TL866 Road Bump!Trying to program a couple of 2716 (NMC27C16Q), but getting stuck immediately at start of programming.At very start of programming, getting error:ERROR! Address:0x000000 Buffer Data:0x3A Verify:0x7ABefore programming, I verified blank and okayI would greatly appreciate it if anyone could offer suggestions about what I'm doing wrong.I tried on two different EPROMs with the same result.Thanks!BillI attached screen shots of both the error and the software version dialog box.

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 03, 2017, 08:38:41 am
content: Try reattaching the IC to the ZIF socket. It's a bad quality socket and sometimes (most of then actually) there is not good contact on all the pins.Try a couple of times.

author: Old Don
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2018, 06:34:32 pm
content: Bringing back this old thread since I recently ran into the same issue with some old suspect Intel D2716's from 1977.I played with the TL866 voltage settings and did a write and verify with Vdd = 5.50v (vs. 5.00) and got the chips to program and verify. I don't know why changing a Vdd setting does anything, but it worked. These chips won't get used in a critical application, but seem to program okay.Note: Intel calls for 25V Vpp with a D2716 and the TL866 has only 21V max for Vpp programming.
Digital microscope, need a camera for my Nikon SMZ-2T - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: madsbarnkob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2018, 12:17:41 pm
content: Hi AllI looked on a lot of threads like this one:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/quick-review-of-(very-affordable-camera)-microscope-for-rework-and-inspection/msg1417970/#msg1417970I am not keen on those relatively expensive cameras that can only do 1080p on HDMI and 720 on USB, atleast I do not feel like investing in a HDMI recorder if I can avoid that extra cost.I came across these 5MP USB 3.0 cameras that does 1080p over USB, so I wanted to hear if anyone got experience with it?https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-3-0-High-Speed-5MP-1080P-60FPS-FHD-HD-C-mount-Industrial-Microscope-Camera/312115701628?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2018, 05:16:01 pm
content: Look this seller:https://risingcam.aliexpress.com/store/1918400I recommend that store all the way for cameras, you can also contact seller with your scope model and he will help you choose the best comabination for you.I use this:https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/1080p-HDMI-USB-SD-digital-microscope-camera-with-SONY-sensor/1918400_32464609452.html1080p no matter what connection you choose, only 30fpsSample from me:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjuX2v7XlDI&feature=youtu.be(USB Recorded, but you can capture via SDcard or HDMI)

author: madsbarnkob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2018, 06:46:21 am
content: Quote from: sn4k3 on September 26, 2018, 05:16:01 pmThank you for the seller recommendation. I wrote them for advise and I will see what they come up with.You camera looks good and certainly also should, it has a price tag over 3 times of the one I linked to. I know going budget for something with high claims can be a risky business, hence why I asked around for experiences with them.I got my Nikon microscope at a good price, so I would also like to keep the expenses down as its not going to be a primary work tool, but more for convenience and I can feel age playing a trick on my vision

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2018, 03:32:41 pm
content: Quote from: madsbarnkob on September 27, 2018, 06:46:21 amCheap cameras at your prince range will not offer you what you want. Also keep in mind using the ocular directly on scope is 1000x better than look at camera image, even my camera is not good for live work, because is out of sync with your movement and its only 30fps. That being said that cameras are only to show off the work and record.To live work you need a better camera with very low lag and high FPS, real 60 up to 120fps are ok, still you loose stereo eyesight (depth).Also don't forget you need an adaptor to install the camera, a good one cost 100 EUR aloneCheapest best for live work:https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/High-Sensitivity-125fps-2-0MP-USB3-0-Microscope-Camera-With-IMX385-Sony-Sensor/1918400_32844574674.html(No HDMI)
What happened to the EvoDrive manufacturer? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Bendba
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2018, 10:07:02 am
content: Hi,For those who might not know what the EvoDrive is, it is a project that made powerful servomotors available at a lower price tag. Based on stepper motors, encoder wheel and closed loop control.I wanted to get my hands on one of them for a long time.And, while they are not as expressive as high end servomotors, they are not quite cheap either.But yesterday, I found one in an eBay lot of gears I picked up.But it seems that the website with all the informations and the software download disappeared.www.evarobotics.comDoes anyone know how to get in contact with them?They don't seem to have an email address and I can't find them on Facebook either.Any help would be welcome.Thanks

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2018, 11:24:53 pm
content: https://web.archive.org/web/20150818042739/http://www.evarobo.com:80/supporthttps://web.archive.org/web/20150818042706/http://www.evarobo.com:80/distributorshttps://web.archive.org/web/20150818042701/http://www.evarobo.com:80/contactushttps://www.artisantg.com/PLC/95936-1/EVA_Robotics_EvoDrive_ST_34_Stepper_Servo_Controller_and_MotorTheir email is in the third link and some documentation is available in the fourth link.If it has step/direction inputs then you could use the motor as-is, unless you have some specific application.If you don't find any easy answers, I would move onto to either another larger manufacturer with actual servo motors (Teknic), or an open source solution (http://misfittech.net/smart-steppers/+https://github.com/thmjpr/nano_stepper/)

author: tsman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2018, 01:15:45 am
content: http://evarobo.com/is their new site but it basically says everything has been discontinued. Their last post was in 2016 and they said they should be able to manufacture a limited quantity of units for 12 months but only for existing customers and very small orders.
RS Pro hot air station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2018, 05:53:49 pm
content: Has anyone seen one of these ?https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/1244134/I wonder if they are better made than the usual 858Ds that are not without a range of issues.I thought that maybe this is a rebadged Chinese one but I've searched for images of hot air stations and not seen a different branded version.Also, it looks like this one doesn't have a fan in the handle.

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2018, 06:57:50 pm
content: Also sold as Pros Kit SS989E.https://www.proskit.com/soldering-assembly/stations/2-in-1-smd-hot-air-rework-station

author: screwbreaker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2018, 08:37:20 pm
content: Also this one look very similar:http://waterun.com.cn/En/Products/show?id=734
Replacement Soldering iron pencil for a TS-1574 station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Mamejay
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2018, 09:30:35 am
content: Hey guys,I scored a TS-1574 soldering station which is missing the the pencil.It has a 5 pin male connection on it. I can get replacements from Jaycar but they are $60Just wondering if some of the generic ones on eBay will work with this unit?Anyone have one of these and replaced the pencil?

author: Electronika
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 17, 2018, 04:07:00 am
content: Hi. will you have the station's firmware?
Cheapo meter for measuring temperature of hot air station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Nisei
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2018, 03:48:56 pm
content: I want to measure the temperature of a hot air station. It doesn't have to be accurate to the degree, just checking if it's in the right region.So will a sub $10 multimeter from China be any good for this or can the same money buy me a dedicated thermometer for measuring temps up to 500 degrees Celsius?

author: Nisei
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2018, 04:35:25 pm
content: Never mind.Found the Aneng DT-838 with thermocouple for only $4I hardly think the price can be beaten and it'll probably be OK for this purpose.

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2018, 09:14:23 am
content: that should work.i used the aneng 8003 with supplied thermocouple with no issues.as long as the thermocouple is a bead, not housed in a big probe, you will be fine.btw, dont ever put that meter across the mains or use the 10A range.it has 1mm clearance between the input connections, and the battery cable is passed under the 10A shunt!

author: Nisei
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2018, 08:48:45 pm
content: Thanks stjHoly crap, that's a dangerous board design indeed!But I've ordered it solely to use for temps so no worries there.Appreciate your response!

author: Nisei
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2018, 09:43:01 am
content: I'm surprised no-one has mentioned the TM-902C thermometer which is a dedicated K-Type thermometer that's all over eBay.Just ordered one for $3.40 shipped.

author: ogden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2018, 09:53:05 am
content: Quote from: Nisei on September 12, 2018, 04:35:25 pmIt will be OK indeed. To improve your confidence - you can measure 100oC temperature of boiling water. If you live high in the mountains - usecalculator.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2018, 06:11:30 pm
content: Do the 0C/100C verification, though you will find it is up to 5C out at the high end, and assumes a 25C ambient temperature ( short out the terminals and you will generally see it read around 25C, irrespective of ambient actual), so it will be accurate to within 20C at 200C in most cases. Good enough for just seeing if you are within a ballpark, though if you have some proper 63/37 solder you can see if the melting point of it is roughly 183C where it gets pasty, 60/40 solder is close enough to eutectic to use, just has a slightly larger plastic range. Lead free solder you need to know the actual solder melting point, which is quite well controlled for name brands.
Andonstar 301 how do I get HDMI output  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lordvader88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2018, 01:43:59 am
content: It got here today and the little display is working great, and I've hooked it to my GPU with the HDMI cable and the software is installed but never saw anything. So I plugged it directly into my monitor and switched the monitor to the HDMI and it works great that way.But can't I plug it into the GPU and have the GPU show it on screen in the program ? Or is the HDMI on the GPU output only ?Ok output only on the GPU, and I don't have a separate video-capture card.So can that program display the live microscope at all, or is it only for editing the images/video ?Dam I looking at a PCB and I never noticed all the little fabric fibers and dust on it, and they are very very hard to blow off. They aren't wisker's, it's from clothes, 1 curled back up like a worm after I tried to remove it with my fingernail.Overall I'm very impressed so far. 1 complaint tho is the focus knob's don't move that smooth, they are kind of jerky. Also the the lens cap arrived dirty, and I had to blow dust out of the chamber. I'm very lucky spit didn't get on the lens.

author: LaurentR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2018, 07:04:02 am
content: Tu use the provided software, you need to connect the scope through USB to your PC.
Mektronics Digital Microscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lod
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2018, 03:26:59 am
content: Latest marketing blurb from Mektronics, an Australian equipment supplier, includes a pair of microscopes with built in screens.https://www.mektronics.com.au/media//wysiwyg/Focus_HDMI_18.pdfThey don't list a brand but the second one looks like an Andonstar product.I'm fairly dismissive of using USB microscopes for soldering strongly preferring a pure optical path.However with the built in screen they should be able to update without much lag and the price is very impressive.Has anyone used a product like this?Is the lag low enough to allow soldering under the screen?

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2018, 10:11:16 pm
content: Usually the display and digital camera are modular and made by someone else so that is no guaranty of low latency.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 12, 2018, 10:21:33 pm
content: Yep, Andonstar ADSM201I have one here but haven't really used it yet.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/new-2016-Andonstar-HDMI-microscope-long-object-distance-free-shipping/32614040444.html