hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Fluke PM6304 serial interface card RS232 - firmware - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: minolta
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 03:35:42 pm
content: Hello,I need firmware (EPROM dump 27C1001 - OTP) for serial interface card RS232 (label on my eprom is PM9549 v 2.2 , but probably could be used similar version too).Has anybody it?I can upload main firmware v. 1.8 (EPROM 27C512).Thank you for help!..
fluke pm6690 calibrate HELP：Impossible to calibrate . Bad reference signal - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: chinapp
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2023, 02:27:28 pm
content: Using the User Options -> Calibrate -> Timebase -> 10MHz -> Start gave me "Impossible to calibrate timebase. Bad reference signal?"Any ideas?PLZ give some hints，thanks

author: chinapp
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2023, 01:33:32 am
content: maybe the reference 10MHz need some special specifiction
Fluke PM97 ON/OFF circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: david69
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2021, 05:25:17 pm
content: Hi, Can I ask about PM97 scopemeter ON/OFF circuit?What voltage on test point TP222 should I measure?Scope is off, there is +3.3V... it is VRAM? switch on,value is changed to 0V, second time switch off = +0,4Vonly button is pressed, release button change 0V andpower on is still open, the scope is not functious, there isnot possibillietes how to switch ON/OFF circuitThe diagnostic mode is workingCOM port working with Scopegrab32.
Fluke replacement parts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2024, 03:51:04 am
content: Hi,I found a source for those Fluke discontinued or hard to find parts on Ali. Hopefully this will help those who are in need. Please check with seller if they are clone or genuine parts if you are concerned about such details.https://m.aliexpress.com/store/3512080
Fluke RLC - PM6304 serial interface card RS232 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: minolta
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2024, 07:18:43 pm
content: Hello,has somebody downloaded firmware (EPROM dump 27C1001 - OTP) for serial interface card RS232 (label on my eprom is PM9549 v 2.2 / or similar version)?I have unit that can not receive command, sending is OK. I have tested all possible, now I need to check FW.I can upload main firmware (from the main board) v. 1.8 (EPROM 27C512) if somebody needs this.Thank you !..

author: MegaVolt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2024, 09:32:44 am
content: Quote from: minolta on May 05, 2024, 07:18:43 pmPlease upload it to this thread. Then when someone needs it, he can find it.
Fluke scopemeter 105B Screen repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Wattiville
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 19, 2023, 11:09:49 am
content: Both polarization films of such a device have burned to the ground and I am in the process of renewing them. The old films have been removed and the cleaned glass surfaces are waiting for new films. But but.. What kind of films would fit this screen? I have tried normal linear films, but the screen is not black and white like the originals. It is either blue or orange in color. I examined the former films and noticed in both films an "extra" thin (0.05mm) and clear film glued to the side of the LCD glass. I was able to cut a small piece of this film and transferred it to a normal linear polarization film, so that in that area the screen appears correctly in black and white. What can this mysterious film be? Does anyone have experience with changing the polarization films of such a device and what kind of film did you use and where did you buy it? I would be grateful if someone could kindly help me.

author: youmax
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 01, 2024, 03:02:51 pm
content: Hi, have the same problem, the normal polarized film dont work. anyone know how purchase this particular film?
Fluke Scopemeter 123 not triggering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: electrongeek
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2015, 02:05:50 pm
content: This was working fine until recently. First clue something was wrong was the capacitance function no longer worked, but it still seemed to trigger normally, at least on the 120V signals most recently viewed on channel A. It was put away for a bit, but now will not trigger on A or B at all despite seeing free running waveforms on the screen.Per the service manual, I checked TP156 and TP256 (from the trigger ASIC). Neither shows the sine output expected for channels A or B under test conditions. The SM says this indicates that the trigger ASIC is bad. I can't imagine what could have taken both channel trigger ASICs out.The capacitance function uses the trigger ASIC so no surprise it is non-functional.So, any ideas? If the ASICS are bad, I'm sure Fluke repair will be more costly than makes sense to spend on the thing.

author: rklan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2022, 11:46:45 am
content: I have the exact same thing.In the past, I used the capacitance mode and did not have any problems with triggering.Today, triggering fails. It only works on free-run. Both channels, also.I tried to use the capacitance test, but this fails also.So, like I said, similar to your problem.Did you solve this?Regards Remco

author: electrongeek
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2022, 12:30:29 am
content: No I did not solve the problem or get it fixed. Fluke wanted an exorbitant amount to repair the unit. Instead I spent less than that on a far more capable Micsig portable scope, which has worked very well for me. The reasons to buy Fluke are stated to be support and reliability, but neither turned out to be such for me, and I plan to avoid future disappointments by not buying Fluke!Chip
Fluke Scopemeter 190-102 firmware downgrade question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: IlConteDuca
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 28, 2025, 01:39:40 pm
content: Hi everyone,I'm reaching out to see if anyone here has experience with downgrading firmware on a Fluke Scopemeter 190-102.Recently, I updated my unit from firmware version 11.44 to 11.46. According to the release notes, version 11.46 introduced changes to the power supply and battery charging control routines to comply with CEC (California Energy Commission) requirements.Since the update, I’ve noticed the unit behaves slightly differently regarding battery charging and wake-up behavior after being powered off for a few days.Ideally, I would like to revert back to firmware version 11.44, as I preferred the previous behavior.I understand that Fluke officially does not support firmware downgrades, but since the change between 11.44 and 11.46 seems relatively minor (and the hardware is otherwise identical), I’m wondering:Has anyone successfully performed a downgrade on the 190-102 or similar models?Are there any particular precautions I should be aware of? Is there any known risk of bricking the device by simply flashing the older firmware?For context, I have the firmware file for version 11.44 available, and I have experience updating firmware via Fluke’s standard update tools.Any advice, suggestions, or sharing of personal experience would be greatly appreciatedThanks in advance!

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2025, 12:53:53 pm
content: Upgrade and downgrade are just different memory write operations.So if used tool allows downgrading there are no technical reasons why it shouldn't be equal to upgrade.
Fluke ScopeMeter 190 Series II - not powering on - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: eduaqa
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2022, 08:52:43 pm
content: I have a fluke 190-204 that I use very few.Last time I used was around 6 months ago.Surprisedly yesterday I tried to power it on and nothing happens.Initially I thought that was the battery because was 6 months without usage, but after leaving with the charger for 10 hours, still nothing happens when I power it on.Also I tried I removed the battery and tried to power using the power supply and nothingPower supply measure about 20V on the connector (without connecting to the Scope)Battery has 5 PINS - T C D + (not exactly in this order) but I know that the outside PINs are - + , and when measure between those pins just get 2.8V, but as it has the C D (what I believe is clock and data), maybe the battery itself needs some "commands" to put the power on + - PinsUnfortunately the Service Manual for this model is limited to calibration process, there not a single flow to follow to debug the problem (the old 190 series was perfect for this situation, there was a lot of step to follow)Any idea that can help me are welcome.

author: asis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2022, 02:48:25 am
content: Hi,The presence of T-thermal C-clock D-data pins indicates that there is a Texas Instrument BMS controller in the battery pack.You can see its type only by opening the block or someone will tell you who has already encountered it.Deep battery discharge caused the SMBusb interface to stop responding.To revive it - you need to get to the batteries and charge them from a laboratory power source.It will probably take some procedure to turn on the MOSFET's.The topic is quite extensive, requiring the development of BatteryManagementStudio and the accompanying forum.

author: asis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2022, 11:19:17 pm
content: Example:Fluke DSP4300(network) pack: BP7235 NiMH 3500mAh 7.2V Gas Gauge IC bq2012https://datasheetspdf.com/datasheet/search.php?sWord=bq2012
Fluke scopemeter 199 repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: barmaley
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 07, 2024, 12:14:21 pm
content: Hi allI bought a defective Fluke 199 on eBay that was tried to be repaired before me. The problem was with the back light. Found a broken NFET V4201 which I replaced and also replaced the transformer inverter - T4200 - SMD Transformer678XN-1081which I took from my working old Fluke 123 and after that the Fluke 199 came back to life and even works.My question is about this678XN-1081, I can't find it on sale. What analog can I use?According to the parameters it is:The second question is the display on 196/199, which is also a problem with the flex cable, which I would like to replace, but also can not find on sale, maybe someone from his experience can tell me what to replace it with?
Fluke Scopemeter 93/95/97  30-pole flat cable. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jellytot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2022, 06:21:15 pm
content: I need to find a replacement 30-pole flat cable. order part no. 5322 321 61238. Its the cable that connects both pcbs. Fluke could not help as its obsolete!.Thanks.

author: colourlessgreenideas
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 22, 2022, 04:02:56 am
content: Twice as long as you need it, but it should work:https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/ribbon-cable/4682707

author: jellytot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2022, 01:44:00 pm
content: Hi! thanks for your post. I saw these on aliexpress and will give them a try first..https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001813405998.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.385139a8FijCsW&algo_pvid=88b0e2b4-cc05-4634-b1a3-3261dff98a61&algo_exp_id=88b0e2b4-cc05-4634-b1a3-3261dff98a61-5&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000028433943741%22%7D&pdp_npi=1%40dis%7CEUR%7C%7C3.18%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C%400bb0623e16513247695933546e34cd%7C12000028433943741%7Csea
Fluke Scopemeter 99 Series II no Picture - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mario_nks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2021, 05:55:08 am
content: Hello,i have an Problem with the Fluke 99 Scopemeter. Whe i switch i on, i can her the buzzer, an on autoset the relais clicking. With an optical interface i get the screen shot from the scope. I dont know how i could start. The Manual i found dosn't macht to my device.I trid to do some messurment.V1= 3,9VV6 = 2,66VV3 = 1,38VV4 = -14,3VV5 = -15,6VV2 = -16,9VI think this is okay?When i chance the Contrast, the Voltages on the V1 - V6 are changingMario

author: EHT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2021, 09:02:39 pm
content: Hi Mario, you should be able to find the service manual for this via Google. Certainly sounds like the display.

author: mario_nks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2021, 06:55:11 am
content: I can't fin any service manual for the Scope!!Have anybody the scematic for this untit? the Modell 105 must be the same.I have definitive problems on my digital Board!Mario

author: chukin
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2021, 02:16:31 pm
content: Hi MarioI am having the same problem as you - I have a dead Fluke 96B. I think 92B, 96B, 99B and 105B scopes have the same service manual but cannot find it online anywhere.I asked for help elsewhere in the forum, so far no reply:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/old-philips-fluke-97/msg3548276/#msg3548276If I find a manual I will let you have a copy. Please do the same for me, thanksPeter
Fluke Scopemeter LCD Lines Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Gus Martin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 29, 2021, 06:36:06 pm
content: I just wanted to share my method for repairing a Fluke Scopemeter LCD that had both horizontal and vertical black lines. My meter was the 123 model, but I think this applies to some others as well. For the horizontal lines I removed the contact strip completely and cleaned the PCB and glass contacts using acetone. Then I got a zebra strip to put in its place. This only works on the horizontal lines because the PCB contacts and the glass contacts are directly above each other. This is not the case for the vertical lines but the good news is that the vertical contact strips are exposed so you can attempt a repair on them. I repaired the vertical contact strip using a soldering iron with a small piece of silicone tubing over the tip. This gives a soft tip to apply pressure and the silicone will transfer heat fairly well. I set my soldering iron to 500 deg Fahrenheit. That seems really hot but my attempts at lower temps were not successful.After I finished I had an LCD with no more lines. The zebra strip can be difficult to position correctly but it can be positioned with the meter powered up and taken apart, giving you feedback by observing lines come and go. As for finding the correct zebra strip. I’m not sure about this part. I just harvested mine from an old LCD panel meter. This just happened to be a perfect fit.Hope this helps somebody attempting the same repair.
Fluke Spare Parts discounted Sydney - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ozpanda
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 26, 2024, 12:53:21 am
content: If anyone needs Fluke spare parts, PLUS ES are offering the spare parts stock they have in Sydney at 25% discount. Use code FLUKE25 at checkout. Only until midnight 26 June 2024 atshop.pluses.com.au

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2024, 10:37:51 am
content: and you need to register ............
Fluke Ti480pro service/parts manual - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: drhex
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2023, 10:44:11 am
content: Hi,Does anybody have the above? Missing the right case and ancillaries and generally like to have service manuals for the gear I own.Thanks,Florian

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2023, 12:25:52 pm
content: you'll have to ask fluke for case parts if any, would not be surprised if some models / brand are identicaland schematics as you may know are ....

author: drhex
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2023, 03:32:42 pm
content: Yes, bit difficult to get any documents out of them. Carry case should be available though. Does anybody here have one and can tell me if superresolution should be available on the imager itself? Manual says so but only get superresolution (pc) which works fine.
Fluke Ti90 Thermal Imager - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rricarrd
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 22, 2023, 09:22:11 am
content: Hi thereSo I've recently got a Fluke Ti90 thermal imager and it's a pitty that it is not working. It does turn on fine and all of the buttons and menus work correctly, but there's no image output at the screen. (Yes, I have made sure that the camera cover is open)What happens can be seen in the images, where the screen shows no temperature gradients or anything, even though colours appear. It is also constantly entering into calibration mode, but it does not seem to change anything. It may be a faulty IR sensor and that would be bad, as Fluke is not keen on repairing it's stuff and components will be hard to find.Any help would be much appreciated.Thanks in advance to anyone that helps:)
FLUKE TiS10 thermal camera RGB LCD panel replacement - advice needed please - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2021, 03:33:15 pm
content: I have started a thread in the 'Beginners' area regarding the replacement of the LCD panel in a FLUKE TiS10 thermal camera but thought it wise to highlight it here as well in case it is missed there. I am looking at fitting a generic RGB TFT LCD panel in the camera as the original is completely broken. The original panel uses only 22 pins to connect to the PCB and the Winstar has 54 pins so some adaption will be required !https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/replacing-an-unknown-rgb-lcd-panel-with-a-generic-type-advice-needed-please/Fraser
Fluke VT-02 service manual? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Axtman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2020, 04:08:34 am
content: I need a Fluke VT-02 Visual Infrared Thermometer Service Manual. I bought a unit cheap and not working. The batteries had leaked and I need to disassemble the unit to clean it.Thanks,

author: petermcm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2023, 04:33:58 am
content: Hi AxtmanCommon issue it seems. I have one here too needing the same.I have found all the Torx screw bar a "hidden middle one"Are you able to offer where this hidden one is or how to do the final middle parting?Also did you find the battery contacts as a spare part anywhere?Thanks in advance.

author: petermcm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2023, 06:20:18 am
content: Fraser's dissection guide found on EEVBlog = Opened
Fluke VT04 camera repair  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: MetalHead
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2024, 01:11:19 pm
content: Hello guys!I bought fluke vt04 on Xianyu website in China as not working unit. When disassembled I noticed that small clock battery had leaked out and destroyed the second camera (not IR one). Cound someone help me to identify the camera and the leads. SMD connector on main pcb looks like is 22 pin vertical FFC FPC. But I cannot find the rest. Maybe there is some phone/tablet camera that can work here as replacement?Or how that can be restored? I see that the acid from the battery had dissolved all contacts and destroyed pads..
Fluke was goo goned to death - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: cobalt232
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2021, 06:44:55 pm
content: i bought a secondhand t5-600 that has been over cleaned by someone.now it feels a bit tacky and doesn't have a shine.is there a product i can use that will give it that smooth plastic feel it should have?thanks

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2021, 05:35:15 pm
content: Hopefully, the Goo Gone didn't attack the surface of the plastic. I use Goo Gone from time to time and immediately follow it up with a Varsol wash down and I follow that with Zep's purple degreaser to get rid of the oily residue left behind by the Varsol. Besides that, there is not much that I can suggest.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2021, 02:35:23 am
content: with iso propyl acohol ?? does the goo go ?
Fluke187 ohm meter function unstable. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: watchaphong
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 28, 2023, 08:08:03 am
content: Hi everyonemy fluke 187 has a problem in ohm meter function. It is unstable example if I mesure resistor 10Kohm 1% but it's running around 8K to 11K. Any suggestion for this problem.thank you

author: Ugur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2023, 01:56:28 pm
content: Have you checked your varistors?
Fluke/Philips PM2534 Error 4, low inguard power supply output  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2020, 06:46:00 pm
content: Hi all,I bought a pair of non-working PM2534s on fleabay... one just needed some mechanical help and now works great, but the other is definitely bad. Both are pcb versions 8051.4 and appear to have been built the same time.The bad unit boots up and beeps continuously... the self test fails with an Error-4 (adc error). Per the service manual I started with the power supplies and the outguard (+5v) is fine but the inguard supply +/- A (8v), and -L (-6v) were low. A thermal image of both meters showed that some inguard regulators on the bad unit were getting too hot... the "bad" meter shows a 110mA draw when plugged into a kill-a-watt meter vs 60mA for the working unit. I'm not very experienced with troubleshooting such complex stuff, but I figure there's a blown component somewhere in the analog section - I just can't find it!I pulled the piezoand all the electrolytic caps in the inguard... the caps all tested ok on an esr meter but I temporarily replaced them anyway - no change. I then pulled the output legs of the abnormally hot regulators (+A, -A) and the draw of course dropped to ~60mA and the outputs were good except +A was 7.7 (still .3v low). I then tested each regulator independently and they all seem to work. The lm337 for -L (-6v) felt hot, but it gets hot on the working meter too.Since something is drawing too much current, I was afraid to run both meters side by side long enough to check/compare voltages for every component - figuring I'd smoke something else. So I in-circuit checked all the diodes and many of the transistors, and checked all the other caps for shorts (using continuity check), and compared some of the readings to my good meter. The ptc R1152, resistor R1103, and triac V1153 on the input stage checked ok as well.The manual doesn't have much as far as troubleshooting, but it does outline which components go with each analog block (and parts are numbered according to block) - I'm thinking the next step is to de-power each analog block until I find the culprit but that likely involves cutting traces on the board. I'm on the fence of whether it's worth the time, but before I start that process...1. Am I overlooking something glaringly obvious?2. Besides the electrolytic caps, is there another typical analog block or component failure in these things that would cause a high draw on +A/-A?3. Do the non-electrolytic caps on these fail often (i didn't find any shorts using continuity, but i didn't pull them all and test them)?Thanks!I attached a photo of the board, focusing on the inguard section.
Fluke/Philips PM2811 repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: IbnBattutiFrutti
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2024, 04:20:38 pm
content: I recently acquired a Fluke (Philips) PM2811 DC power supply. Unfortunately, the previous owner had failed to properly seat one of the PCBs. So when I slid off the cover for the first time, a small transformer on a daughterboard caught against the cover and underwent rapid unscheduled disassembly.Service manual link is below. The daughter board is on the PCB layout on page 56, labeled T101. The wiring diagram on page 57 lists it as "7105-2 EL Inverter DC 5V / AC 115V".https://www.eevblog.com/files/philips_pm2811_pm2812_pm2813_sm.pdfLong story short, it seems that this is a 5vdc to 115vac inverter that outputs to "VBL+" and "VBL-". I'm assuming BL is backlight?Is there a module that I can substitute in here? I'd reverse engineer the daughter board, but the transformer is in pieces and has no markings.

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2024, 06:22:57 am
content: Hi!. . .Any good?https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJkE6mp. . .You should be able to obtain 12 V to operate this from elsewhere in your power supply unit!Chris Williams

author: srb1954
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2024, 09:22:11 am
content: Quote from: IbnBattutiFrutti on January 16, 2024, 04:20:38 pmIt might pay to also check that the EL panel itself is still working as they have a tendency to fail over time. If the EL panel has failed replacing it with an LED backlight might be a better option, providing you can find one that is thin enough to fit under the LCD module. The LED panel could run directly off the +5V supply without the need for an additional inverter.

author: IbnBattutiFrutti
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 17, 2024, 05:30:50 pm
content: Hadn't thought of going LED. Will definitely try that, thanks!
Fluorescent tube and led lights compatibility - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Rutherberg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2020, 01:27:37 pm
content: Hello,I made a small electrical installation in a garden shed, a small switchboard, some AC outlets, a fluorescent tube inside, and a flood light + led light with PIR detector (Philips myGarden).There is some funny business between my led lighting and the fluorescent tube.When I switched the fluorescent tube on and off for the first time, I noticed the flood light leds made some flashes, although controlled by a different switch.The switches for the tube and the flood light are unipolar, so the neutral is common.After few more on and off of the tube, the flood light stopped working, and the led light with PIR detection stayed ON all the time (PIR detector broken I suppose)What could be the cause of this ?It looks like the tube generates nasty spikes in the circuit and the led lighting doesn't seem to like it.I double checked my circuit and connections. The upstream installation is certified. I really don't understand.I replaced the starter in the tube frame, but still the same. Could it be caused by a defect ballast ?The flood light uses a BP5136 IC to drive the leds, and all the circuit is powered by main directly rectified, MOV before and after the bridge and a X2 capacitor. Very basic power supply.Thanks

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2020, 06:22:42 pm
content: Fluorescent lamps with magnetic ballasts do have some high voltage spikes during starting, and the common LED lights do not have any sort of surge protection in them, so the spikes from starting the lamp will kill them. Not helped with a long supply cable, as it adds inductance.Solutions are to get some MOV protection for the new lights, 275VAC units, wired directly across the light fitting, after the switch, to protect them when on, and to replace the fluorescent lamp with the LED versions, lower power use, instant light and most are a simple retrofit on 230VAC, just needing you to change the tube with the LED tube, and replace the starter with the one supplied, which is a simple fuse. While you are there get some plug in surge arrestors, will help with things like power tools that also will generate spikes.

author: jh15
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2020, 12:55:26 pm
content: Please aim the floodlight down, not at the horizon.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2020, 01:54:37 pm
content: Does the fluorescent lamp have an X2 suppression cap between line and neutral? However, I agree with SeanB to replace the fluorescent tube with an LED one (also bridge the magnetic ballast, it's not needed any longer).
FlyBack Osciloscópio Hitachi V-660 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Paulo Rato
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 17, 2024, 12:03:31 pm
content: I need a flyback for the Hitachi v-660 oscilloscope, I've already looked in several places and haven't found it. If anyone knows of somewhere that has it or if anyone has a scrap of this oscilloscope, please let me know. Thank you very much in advance
FlyBack Osciloscopio Hitachi V-660 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Paulo Rato
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 13, 2024, 03:09:02 pm
content: Boa tarde eu estor precisando flyback do osciloscopio hitachi v-660 ja procurei em varios lugares e não encontrei caso alguem saiba de algum lugar que tenha ou se alguem tiver uma sucata desse osciloscopio porfavor me avisem. Desde ja muito obrigado
HP 3561A Flyback transformer replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Floopy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2022, 11:54:40 pm
content: Hello,I've been looking for too long on this one. Anyone know where I might find a replacement for this flyback transformer? It came out of an HP 3561A. TMF-2500A seems to bring up a chinese website, but I don't want to order over 100+ of them. Is there a way to replace it with a similar model? The HP service manual only states, "transformer-flyback frequency 36.2kHz". It's a nine pin as well. Any pointers would be helpful.-Thank you

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2022, 12:53:05 am
content: Did you found this website as well:https://www.technotronic-dimensions.com/Products2c.htmlNo idea whether these guys are legit.

author: Floopy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2022, 01:35:58 am
content: I did, I sent them an e-mail to see if they had anything that might work as that seems to be their old store front and the new one doesn't seem to have it. Thank you though

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2022, 07:04:54 pm
content: Including equipment name in subject title would get you more attention.Does the pinout match the HR Diemen HR42052 model?

author: Floopy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2023, 12:12:32 am
content: Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I though I would post the conclusion. After a lot of searching and e-mailing, (now my inbox is full of advertisement from Chinese distributors) I had someone reply back a year later! Apparently he had something that might work, at least it had the same part number. I paid the 90$ (a bit of a gamble) and he sent it over. It worked (after some tuning)! Fixed it, it had the same resistance across all the coils so I believe they are the same part.I ended up getting it from this guy, he's a bit slow to respond but he helped me a lot!https://www.technotronic-dimensions.com/Products2c.htmlThere are pictures of before and after.
FM IF aligment with digital equipment - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: daskorn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2022, 01:51:29 pm
content: Hi,I’m an electronic hobbyist mostly interested in electronic repair. I recently started to work on a worthless AM/FM radio alarm from the 70ties. As I bought a bunch of test equipment over the last years I though abought doing a FM alignment.I found some YT videos about that topic but in most cases an old school sweep generators combined with an analog scope is used. As I do not have the space to store these beauties I wasted my money in chines products. So, what I’ve got is a FeelTech FY6900 and a Siglent SDS1104X-E.What I found out so far. I need to sweep over the 10.7MHz frequency. My first question is in that context: What is a recommended frequency rang to sweep over. Will 10.7MHz +/- 1MHz do the job?Regarding the FY6900. What I found out already is that I can feed a ramp signal from channel 2 of the signal generator to its VPO input and use that as frequency-sweep trigger. I can use the same channel 2 as a trigger input for my DSO to do some XY magic. However, I wonder about two things here.1. Can’t I just use the FM modulator feature of the FeelTech to generate the same sweep signal?Set CH 1 to 10.7 MHz sine wave, CH 2 ramp let’s say 5kHz. Go to the modulation menu. FM mod, source CH 2. BIAS 2Mhz.I can then use the CH 2 as before (but without T) to feed it as trigger to the DSO and do some XY magic.2. As the XY mode of the DSO is not that great. Do I really need to use XY mode to do the alignment?I played around with the FFT / Spectrum Analyzer feature of the DSO. I wonder whether it could be used for IF FM alignment. For my understanding in that case I do only need one channel of the DSO. By displaying the max values I was able to display frequency plot the sweep signal, as the sweep speed is limited. The FM modulation seems to be the better option to view in FFT mode. That way I do not need max mode.But there seem to be so many settings having impact on the FFT function that I’m a little bit lost here. A recommendation on how to setup the FeelTech and DSO in that context would be highly appreciated.That should be enough for now. Thanks in advance.DK

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2022, 07:19:49 pm
content: FM is too fast for sweep alignment. You need to sweep slowly, perhaps below 100 Hz depending on the time constants. XY mode is preferred. You sweep about 200 kHz or a little more wide and look at the detector output.
FM receiver cutting out when on a strong signal - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Deactivated-1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2022, 04:56:46 pm
content: So I'm repairing this "Breman" car radio, havent found any schematics on it, I reverse engineered the AM/FM tuner, made a schematic.at first the radio worked fine, after replacing the electrolytic capacitors (only 3, one for power supply, one for the AM, and one for AGC), I have checked multiple times and the capacitors are the correct value, polarity, and the correct place. and now it's not working correctly.the problem is that it cuts out when its tuned to a strong station, if I dont tune it right on the peak it works, I tried shorting the AGC line of the BA4236 to ground, and that only made it more distorted (which it shouldnt do anything anyway since that's only for AM it seems)I tried shorting the junction of 2 220k's and 47nF capacitor to ground, applying AGC to FM, and that didnt help either.if I detune T1, it doesnt cut out anymore, but sensitivity is much worse, so I suspect it's just because it looses sensitivity...the output of it also is really really weak, I crank the volume and it can be outpowered with just regular talking easilly.AM totally doesnt work, but I dont have many AM stations around here anyway, so not suprised it's not picking up any, but there's almost no static when on AM, so if it's working, it's not very sensitive for sure.I dont have a signal generator that I could use to properly adjust the tuner, but I hope to at least fix the cutting out issue, what do you think could be the problem?..schematic: (sorry if it's a bit hard to read)

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2022, 02:37:56 am
content: Not that I know anything about these, but what do you mean by it cuts-out when on a strong signal ? The speaker output goes to 0V or a rail and stays there ?I have to learn some more AC stuff before I can actually calculate stuff in real radio. I have some old 1960's radio's tho, and even a VT radio from the 1950s iirc. If it wasn't for my day job, I'd have them restored by now. They still mainly work, just need some old resistors and caps changed, and not much else.
Fnirsi 1014d oscilloscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: nht7
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 02, 2025, 03:02:11 pm
content: Hello everyone!I've purchased this 1014d oscilloscope as "not working/untested" with the goal of repairing it and making a step forward in having a full beginner electronics tool bench.I opened it up and found some burnt resistors and shorted capacitors near the channel 1 socket, as well as a burnt PT4103 step up converter in the power supply section of the motherboard.It could have been an easy repair if those were the only broken things, but that's not the whole story. Continuing with diagnostic I've found shorted capacitors near the FPGA and the GD32E230 micro controller (voltage injection on partially shorted to ground caps and a thermal camera confirmed those are faulty as well).I kindly ask if anyone could help me understand if those chips can be replaced or they need to be programmed first (I see some flash memory soldered on the board) and how can I program them if needed/possible.I came across this awesome repository and maybe can be of any help to sourcing the firmware backupshttps://github.com/pecostm32/FNIRSI-1013D-1014D-Hack

author: TinLethax
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2025, 01:38:40 am
content: On the FPGA part. You can just replace the FPGA IC, the firmware is stored in the SPI flash chip sitting next to it (if it survives). The GD32 however, you would need ST-Link or J-Link or ARM-SWD tool to flash to firmware from that repository. All the rest is just to source the IC and replace it and good to go.

author: MadTux
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2025, 11:47:20 am
content: If that thing got fried by supply overvoltage (wrong PSU??), you basically can expect every part as faulty.If you are lucky, some part shorted out hard and took all the power, if unlucky, everything is toast, so it likely will be far less trouble to buy a new cheapo scope then to source every part with unknown repair success rate.
Focusrite 6i6 component ID question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: anderaj
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 14, 2020, 06:38:38 pm
content: Hi, I have a Focusrite Scarlett 6i6 audio interface that recently stopped working, it no longer powers up. I've owned it for over two years and it had been working fine. There was an obvious burning smell coming from the module. I found a blistered component near the DC input section (it's powered from a 12VDC supply), but I can't identify the component marking. It's a 10 pin surface mount device, reference designator U9, marked as "7UHM 619". Photo attached. Any thoughts on the actual component vendor/PN?thanks,AJ

author: anderaj
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 10:48:18 am
content: Update on my part ID question - I figured this part must be some type of DC-DC converter, and based on other Focusrite repair threads, guessed it might be a Monolithic Power or OnSemi part. Before posting to the EEVBlog, I also sent a query to Focusrite earlier last month, not expecting to get any useful reply. I did receive a reply from Focusrite tech support this morning - the component in question is a MP2227 QFN10 Step-down regulator 24V, made by monolithic power. Focusrite even offered to send me a replacement part at no charge. My component ID question is solved, and my appreciation goes out to Focusrite's technical support team, I did not expect that level of service.AJ
Focusrite Forte audio device repair - step-down DC-DC converter problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lasworren
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 02, 2020, 05:35:13 pm
content: Hello,I'm trying to repair a Focusrite Forte, a PC/MAC usb audio device.It can work only via usb, but for phantom power it needs external power supply, 5V 1A.At the moment is dead, no power-up at all.I've checked the pcb and found a burnt smd autoswitching power mux ic (Tps2113Apwr, U21 on PCB, already changed).There are also two shorted sot23-5 step-down DC-DC converter, marked as "GALRXA" (U6-U7 on PCB).Found them here:http://chip.tomsk.ru/chip/chipdoc.nsf/vc1!readform&view=smd&cat=G&start=1501&count=500described as NCP1521BSNT1G - NCP1521B - TSOP-5 - 1.5MHz, 600mA Step-Down DC-DC Converter. Probably adjustable version.I suppose the damage was caused by a wrong external power supply, probably 12v instead of 5V.Anyway, I've found exactly the same step-down converters on aliexpress, already purchased (and arrived after 5 months!). Same package, but marked as "QUW" instead of "GALxxx". I searched online for information on these ic but can't find anything for sot23-5 package.What can I do? Do I trust the Aliexpress seller? Can I use some other buck converter, always adjustable but working on a different frequency?thanksf

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2020, 03:09:15 am
content: TLV70218DBVR, Texas Instruments, 1.8V, 300mA, LDO regulator, SOT23-5, marking QUW:http://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/tlv702Did you try here?https://it.farnell.com/on-semiconductor/ncp1521bsnt1g/converter-buck-adj-o-p-0-6a-smd/dp/1432258

author: lasworren
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 04, 2020, 12:59:41 pm
content: Quote from: fzabkar on February 03, 2020, 03:09:15 amThank you! At the end, I'll try to buy original NCP1521BSNT1G from another shop.Quote from: fzabkar on February 03, 2020, 03:09:15 amYes, it's also available on mouser.it, digikey.it, etc., but too expensive shipping costs (about 15-20 eur) for €2 worth of ICs.
Focusrite Saffire pro 24 dsp - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mykia
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 16, 2019, 11:47:27 am
content: I have a problem with my Saffire Pro 24 sound card and would like to find the service manual to see if I can repair it. The card has stopped communicating with the PC and so I believe the firewire port is broken. I searched around and found no one who shared this, anyone can help me, could send me messages directly about it. I would like to try replacing the component that manages the firewire but the repair manual at this point is necessary.Thank you, Michele

author: cncjerry
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 11:51:28 pm
content: does that device also have USB and if so, does the USB work? Firewire and USB devices are pretty standard, USB seems to have more options. 'Jerry

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2019, 01:04:30 am
content: Connectors and other things that endure mechanical stress can be the culprit if it otherwise seems to power up normally, could be a starting point to check, at least.Don't know if there is a service manual available, since it's more modern consumer grade gear, I'd assume not. What do you have in terms of equipment that could be used to figure out what's wrong? What have you tried?

author: mykia
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 19, 2019, 10:49:15 pm
content: The device does not communicate with the PC probably it is the fiewire port and I was hoping to be able to repair it withthe help of the wiring diagram and the components but they are difficult to find. I also asked for Focusrite but I have not received a reply so far

author: mykia
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 19, 2019, 10:54:09 pm
content: Here is the picture of the interior from the board the ICs circled in blue should be the offending ones

author: KhronX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2019, 10:54:33 pm
content: No idea whether you managed to fix this or not in the mean time, but if the Firewire communication doesn't work anymore, more often than not, it's the interface chip that kicked the bucket.In this unit, that's a Texas Instruments TSB41AB1 - should be around 5$/pc or so. I got mine from Mouser, with a few other bits and bobs to get over the free-shipping threshold.Either way, i actually fixed a Pro 24 DSP with just this issue not long ago.https://khronscave.blogspot.com/2019/03/35-focusrite-saffire-pro-24-dsp.htmlPS: Those two chips circled in blue that  "should be the offending ones" are 99.8% definitelyNOTthe issue.The one near the quartz crystal is a 1.8V linear regulator (LM1117, i think) for supplying the core voltage to the Dice Mini main processor, and the one on the DSP daughterboard is, surprise-surprise, another linear regulator (LP38692) for the (core?) supply voltage of the DSP chip. Because logic.
Focusrite scarlett 2i4 1st GEN component Missing  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: marcosboiero
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 12, 2022, 07:09:55 pm
content: I all, i have a issue, my scarlett fall to the ground and now theres some componet missing, i found a previous post and i could find the name and the values of one of them, i still have one component missing in the board apear like 137, could anyone knows what the component is, and what value?thank in advance, sorry for my english i will post a picture from the location of the missing component

author: marcosboiero
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 12, 2022, 07:12:46 pm
content: the missing component is marked in light blue

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2022, 07:40:53 pm
content: C137, pretty much looks like a bypass ceramic capacitor. Considering its apparent size (I'd say 0805), I would guess that it may have a higher value than your typical 100nF bypass cap. Possibly something like 1uF or 10uF ceramic.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2022, 03:54:05 am
content: Can you locate a datasheet for U4? If it contains an application circuit, that should tell you what the function of the capacitor could be.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 13, 2022, 11:49:46 am
content: Quote from: fzabkar on April 13, 2022, 03:54:05 amYep, get the app in the datasheet for the chip.You could also buzz out the lines and see if they are GND and VCC to determine if it's a bypass cap or not.But if it was a bypass cap then it's actually rather unlikely that the thing would stop working if it's missing.

author: Deimos
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 15, 2022, 08:49:22 pm
content: You could try sending a message to Focusrite support inquiring about the component(s) in question.I contacted them in 2014 or so, about a schematic for my Scarlett 8i6 1st gen, as it too had a broken USB port, and a couple components were lost from the damage. At that time they were willing to send me a schematic, but only if I signed an NDA. I said that was okay, though to make it easier I only needed to know the value of a couple parts, didn't need the entire schematic, and gave the parts location, and tech support was gracious enough to look it up for me. One was a 1uf capacitor around the USB connector area, and a small choke for the USB line. I still use the 8i6 today.I don't know if they will still do this, but it wouldn't hurt to ask them. I was kind of surprised they helped out like that, but they did, of course that was 8 years ago.

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2022, 11:15:56 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on April 13, 2022, 11:49:46 amTrue. But we don't know if the thing has "stopped working", the OP just said it has a component missing. So we don't actually know what the symptoms are if any. (Unless there was another thread about it that I missed.)