hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Best 200MHz oscilloscope probes for less than $40 each.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ArcticPhoenix0
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2020, 02:57:15 am
content: Recently unlocked my Siglent 1104X-E to a 1204X-E and realized my probes are only 100MHz. Guess I need some upgrades! What's the best way to go to not limit the BW by the probes?

author: MikeLud
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2020, 03:29:04 am
content: ArcticPhoenix0The probes that come with the scope work fine out to 200Mhz see the below posthttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-sds1104x-e-in-depth-review/msg1434665/#msg1434665

author: sharktank1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 31, 2020, 10:24:49 pm
content: However the link to the study mentioned is about the probes that came with the 1200 series so they would be rated higher than the ones that came with the 1000 seires.I am suspect about the probes that siglent (or perhaps their dist.) sends out. The ones that came with my 1104xe aren't rated for that model. The next higher priced probes from siglent are matched better spec wise. (but only slightly). I am suspect because a coax to coax gives soooo much better traces, that I'm looking for other probe solutions - even with a self test with the 1k internal signal on the front panel the sent-with probes are dismal.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2020, 10:47:28 pm
content: Quote from: sharktank1 on May 31, 2020, 10:24:49 pmNope.PP510 are shipped with all 100 MHz Siglent DSO's with one exception, SDS2104X Plus as its -3dB BW point is some 185 MHz so well beyond the typical ~130 MHz of 100 MHz DSO's.PP215 probes OTOH are just a bit better match for SDS1202X-E and SDS1204X-E that both have -3dB points ~230 MHzQuoteProbes are matched to models at the factory.Coax connections by virtue of their full shielding will always give good results if used with a properly impedance matched connection.QuoteIf signal fidelity is an issue when compensating probes I would first suspect local interference from a SMPS nearby.Oh, and welcome to the forum.

author: Wolfgang
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2020, 12:08:29 am
content: Quote from: ArcticPhoenix0 on March 08, 2020, 02:57:15 amFrom an RF guy:only a dead probe is a good probe. Ground leads, geometry, capacitive loading can cause significant errors already at 200MHz.If you can, create 50Ohm test ports and use coax connections.
Best alternate to zig bee - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2018, 09:57:53 pm
content: Hi, please share you experience for best alternate to zig beein term of price, security and rangethanks

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2018, 10:30:05 pm
content: That depends on what you want to do with it. Do you need to integrate with existing hardware, or just your own devices?

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2018, 11:04:16 pm
content: Its for my own device,

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2018, 11:09:41 pm
content: How big of a network?In general, there are not too many physical protocols better than IEEE 802.15.4. LoRa may be an option too.It all depends on actual bandwidth requirements, number of devices, direction of traffic, etc.

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2018, 12:06:18 am
content: I'm not looking for some particular project, but just want to know so that i can learn and do experiments,probably my applications would be in 100 meters, low speed data transfer, network of 100 devices

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2018, 12:40:59 am
content: There are not too many options.IEEE802.15.4 and a custom higher level protocol is probably the closest fit. LoRa will follow. You can probably make something like this work with Nordic NRF24L01+ (just not the clones that are all over the place).ESP8266 if you can tolerate the router and can find one that can sustain 100 devices.

author: Tedro
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 28, 2018, 07:11:17 pm
content: MyFly?
Best Books for studying Semiconductor devices - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: thelearner
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 02:14:32 pm
content: Hello,Can anyone suggest the best books for learning about all semiconductor devices??TIARegards,Learner

author: Dave
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 06:08:08 pm
content: 'Semiconductor Physics and Devices' by Donald Neamen. I believe it's pretty much the de facto standard for teaching this stuff.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2020, 03:59:45 am
content: There is no "best" book for learning "all about electronic devices".Different people learn in different ways. For some a hands-on practical guide is a good way to learn.Other people prefer a more abstract approach with more details in the underlying theory.Just looking up articles of different semiconductors on Wikipedia could be a good start."Practical Electronics for Inventors" from Paul Scherz is indeed a practical approach but seems well written.
Best boost converter topology for a 400V capacitor charger - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ZeroResistance
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2018, 09:45:15 am
content: I want to charge a 10uF cap, upto 400Vdc, my input voltage would be 12VDC what boost converter topology would be suitable for this ?I have seen most people using the MAX1771 but currently I don't have that part in my kitty.Edit: I am also looking for low EMI emissions, so I would preferably like a topology that is sine wave driven.

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2018, 09:52:43 am
content: Use a single transistor self oscillating converter aka Joule ThiefYou'd need a suitable transformer anywayhttps://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/234656/reverse-engineering-camera-flash-charger

author: ZeroResistance
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2018, 10:22:16 am
content: Quote from: capt bullshot on April 12, 2018, 09:52:43 amMany thanks bullshot, that's a novel idea, I'm wondering what kind of efficiencies does this kind of circuit exhibit and is it also notorious for noise / EMI generation?

author: ZeroResistance
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2018, 10:27:49 am
content: Quote from: blueskull on April 12, 2018, 09:57:42 amThanks for the info blueskull is this low on EMI?

author: ogden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2018, 10:43:34 am
content: Quote from: ZeroResistance on April 12, 2018, 09:45:15 amI would use Xenon photo flash charger IC likeTPS65552orsimilar. Those ICs usually have "power good" indicator which is nice bonus

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2018, 11:28:51 am
content: Quote from: ZeroResistance on April 12, 2018, 10:22:16 amThis circuit is rather old, from ancient times where IC manufactureres didn't try to sell you a special IC for each special purpose (IC's weren't common at all then), and you'd have to come up with a simple and cost effective solution, more transistors would have been considered a waste of money. Anyway, it's so simple and effective, photo flashes were built this way over decades.The efficiency is rather mediocre, there's some art in designing the transformer for maximum efficiency. Older designs were known for their typical whining "charging" sound, but that was because of the rather slowish transistors and diodes. Today, one can design this circuit with higher switching frequencies, so audible noise won't be a concern.EMC and electrical noise isn't worse than any other boost converter.

author: ZeroResistance
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2018, 05:38:10 am
content: Are there any resonant topologies suitable for this application. I believe they would be efficient and low on noise?

author: ogden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2018, 11:52:57 am
content: Quote from: ZeroResistance on April 13, 2018, 05:38:10 amThere are quasiresonant flyback topology which indeed could be suitable for this application - in case you don't mind complexity of it.
Best choice of connector for a cartridge/expansion slot? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Mechanical Menace
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 02:28:49 am
content: Well I'm designing my own little 80's inspired micro like computer and in that tradition would like to add an expansion/cartridge style port. The problem is I'm using a much more modern MPU, even if I have moved from ARM to ColdFire because everything is ARM, so I'd like to expose the FlexBus but I'm not sure what connectors would be good at up to 100mhz. Just for the feel I'd love to use a card edge connector but would that be good enough?Thanks

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 07:59:33 am
content: Disclaimer: basically no MHz experience.I would start by looking what modern computers use for high datarate connectors:PCI-E (card-edge)SATAThese should be very easy to get. Also consider the smaller:DisplayportMicro-HDMIEDIT: Cardedge is probably fine, provided you do things like ensure each transmission line is a similar length.. Ipresumestub/reflection behaviours won't be a problem (when no card is connected) as wavelength of 100Mhz = speed of light / (100 * 10^6) ~= 3 meters , but I'm probably using the wrong logic here.

author: lapm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 02:47:21 pm
content: Well it depends what sort of signals and how many of them you need to move over... I have seen D-connectors used for this, card edge, etc... Then there are those they use on rack systems often DIN 41612 type...Basicly higher the frequency on signal better connector you need.

author: katzohki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 07:34:10 pm
content: How about look at it from a consumer point of view? Use something that will be easy / cheap for people to work with. I guess I'm looking at it as a product, but even for yourself that will make life easier.
best complete arduino robotics kits - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Capernicus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2021, 12:15:28 pm
content: Im looking around on the internet, for a good beginners robot body to get started with. I dont care if its weak, and doesnt have cameras, as long as it has positional encoders on the servos, I can put a couple of wifi cameras on it for stereo vision and do it asynch/separately. (I can just screen grab the windows desktop to get the images.)Or, do I need a kit? its a simple job, if I bought the ardunio and servos separately, all I need to do is send the signals to the motors, and get the positional feedback back to the arduino, to send down the usb to the computer with the gtx980 on it for the processing.Is that so easy that - im having trouble finding a robot cause no-one even buys them, they just do the job themselves?(sorry i forget to mention, im looking for a legged robot, a wheeled robot is no good... and thats what they all are.)

author: Capernicus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2021, 12:29:29 pm
content: here it is got it.https://www.robotgear.com.au/Product.aspx/Details/603-Dagu-Hexapod-Robot-Chassis-Kit$100. but i wonder do i really need the kit if I just buy the servos and arduino...

author: Capernicus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2021, 02:33:58 pm
content: This one costs exactly the same but its a 17dof humanoid!!! this is so much better, but im not sure if Ive got the guts to buy it.https://au.banggood.com/DIY-17DOF-RC-Dancing-Robot-Educational-Walking-Race-Robot-Kit-p-1428681.html?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_organic&gmcCountry=AU&utm_content=minha&utm_campaign=minha-au-en-pc&currency=AUD&cur_warehouse=CN&createTmp=1&ID=224&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_bgcs&utm_content=frank&utm_campaign=frank-ssc-aug-all-1127&ad_id=485163572878&gclid=CjwKCAiAkJKCBhAyEiwAKQBCkhT33rNKaAe4CCe2fdYhnr2WaDrnE71Pn1f6l-rjSYxx8Y1OZcpVKxoCSacQAvD_BwEOops nah its just a frame, no micro, no motor controller, no servos. i see now.the full thing of even the ozzie one is $209 total, including the arduino and motor controller.
Best DC/DC Topology - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: BorisRap
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2024, 01:39:44 pm
content: Good day,I have to design an isolated DC/DC converter. Here are some specs:Vin: wide range (from 100VDC to 400VDC)or400V fixed from PFC.Vout: adjustable voltage from1.7VDC to 18VDCIout: 20A max (at any voltage)Efficency: I know the efficency will be peak only at one volatge/current so I'd say around 92%+ at 18V 20AWhich topology would you recommend that allows to have such a big output range?I've been investigating and I found Phase-Shifted Full-Bridge could be a good option.I found this controller from TI UCC28951 that looks quite good. But I don't know it enables to put a potentiometer in the feedback loop and adjust down to 1.7VDatasheet:https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ucc28951.pdf?ts=1715952028390&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.ti.com%252Fpower-management%252Facdc-dcdc-controllers%252Fproducts.htmlWould you recommend any other topology for my needs? Thank you!

author: aliarifat794
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2024, 07:06:32 am
content: I am not sure about the potentiometer in the feedback loop that you are talking about. However, ucc28951 Phase-Shifted Full-Bridge Controller for Wide-Input Voltage RangeApplications is usable for PSFB topology.https://e2e.ti.com/support/power-management-group/power-management/f/power-management-forum/957006/ucc28951-how-to-select-or-design-shim-inductor-for-psfb-topology
Best example code to learn avr-8bit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: embedded.world@aol.com
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2014, 08:10:24 am
content: I found several example codes on internet for avr 8 bit.I am using winavr & avrstudio 4.19Is there any best website to learn avr 8 bit with winavr

author: lapm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2014, 10:56:42 am
content: avrfreaks?

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2014, 12:37:11 pm
content: Also several good YouTube channels.

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2014, 12:51:33 pm
content: Tutorial section of the avrfreaks forum.If you want you can peek at my tutorials also:http://hekilledmywire.wordpress.com/
Best flux for smd soldering? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: wadmancpu
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2018, 07:03:58 pm
content: What are the best fluxes for smd soldering?

author: Bassman59
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2018, 07:32:32 pm
content: Quote from: wadmancpu on September 07, 2018, 07:03:58 pmTacky flux!http://www.techni-tool.com/319CH4300

author: wadmancpu
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2018, 11:36:24 pm
content: Thanks!

author: modernjack3
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2018, 07:13:25 pm
content: AMTECH NC-559-V2-TFIs my favourite one.

author: viperidae
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2018, 09:27:25 am
content: Quote from: modernjack3 on September 09, 2018, 07:13:25 pmdon't delay, buy todayhttps://store.rossmanngroup.com/index.php/amtech-nc-559-v2-30-cc-16160.html

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 12, 2018, 10:15:51 am
content: Just be sure to clean it after as unactivated flux is quite corrosive and conductive.
Best Glue Sticks for general electronic use? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: OilsFan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2016, 11:45:06 pm
content: I searched for info but couldn't find any consensus on what a good glue stick is for general electronics use. I'm sometimes worried that the unknown composition of the glue sticks I'm splooging everywhere is going to turn out to be conductive. What's a good non-conductive, good holding strength and reasonable temperature performance glue stick? I'm not talking about any high temp applications. Any recommendations?

author: Shadetreeprops
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2016, 12:17:01 am
content: If use hot snot as Dave calls it for my stuff, i use general purpose. when gluing boards back into broken things. no issues to date. I do not think what you are using is conductive by any means, unless its wet..but you could always just google electronics adhesives and see what hefty priced solution it tosses your way.

author: jboard146
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2016, 08:10:12 pm
content: I've got black and clear ones I bought of amazon. I don't remember them being expensive.They do make conductive ones, but they are the exception and not the norm.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2016, 11:35:18 pm
content: Look for a high-melt polyolefin glue stick (make sure your glue gun is hot enough).Personally, I like 3M's 3731 Hot Melt Adhesive, as well as their 3748VO (this is aimed as an epoxy replacement, and is specifically designed for the electronics market as it's UL1410 compliant). Unfortunately, it's sold in 11lb boxes which is ~165 x 0.625"x8" sticks (Q size), so it's not cheap. Even theirleast expensive 3M glue gunthey offer meant to be used with these is over $100 (the sticks have ribs in them for the feed mechanism to grab onto).

author: BurningTantalum
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2016, 07:53:21 am
content: Recently I posted a query about cheap, fluid potting compound (just for hobby use) as I have been potting repaired electronic modules in neutral cure silicone sealant. I did suggest hot melt glue as a filler. I am awaiting some liquid potting compound but in the meantime soaked a hot melt stick in water for a few days and tested with an insulation tester (when dried). It appeared not to be hygroscopic and was a good insulator. It was only a cheap bunch of non-specific sticks from a K-Mart/Reject Shop outlet.I view the practice of 'blobbing' components/parts down with hot-melt as for initial prototype only (and lazy bodge-artists.) Maybe I'm an old snob, but screws, washers, brackets and pillars etc are the way to go...Regards, BT

author: gildasd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2016, 05:51:21 pm
content: I use the transparent hobby stuff from Rapid, works good for me.
Best halide-free general use hand solder? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Mixka
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 31, 2017, 02:21:51 am
content: Hello everyone!I just get my solder roll finished and are about to buy new one.I don't remember what solder it was, because all labels are gone. All I can remember is that it was containing some amount of silver and it was halide-free, because I can't stand it.I look Mouser, TME, Farnell and RS Online and these is what I found:Stannol 810691 (5,50€/100g) Sn60/Pb40 F-SW33/REL0 Crystall/Kristall 400 (multicore 2,2%)Stannol 640053 (5,50€/100g) Sn60/Pb39/Cu1 F-SW32/ROL0 HF32 (singlecore 3,5%)Multicore 288498 (13,44€/100g) Sn60/Pb40 F-SW32/ROL0 Crystall/Kristall 400 (multicore 2,2%)Felder Löttechnik 20.600.52037 (7,44€/100g) Sn60/Pb40 F-SW32/ROL0 (singlecore 3,5%)Felder Löttechnik 20.720.52037 (12,65€/100g) Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 F-SW32/ROL0 (singlecore 3,5%)Kester 24-6337-8834 (15,33€/100g) Sn63/Pb37 F-SW32/ROL0 245 (singlecore? 2,2%)All of those is available in 0,5mm diameter.I googled those, but can't find about anything usefull comparison or info. This was only opinion what I found:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/multicore-solder/(Reply #10), but Stannol and Multicore have newer version available today. And I think that silver contain Felder is also new one, because datasheet don't have any mention about it.Do you have any opinion of those or even better idea? All help appreciated!

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 31, 2017, 03:28:13 am
content: QuoteI didn't notice that halide-free flux fumes are any bit less nasty. Actual flux is what matters IMO, halide-free does not mean anything in this regard (unless it is some relatively active flux with high halide contents).

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2017, 06:15:39 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on March 31, 2017, 03:28:13 amI agree. I still have a roll of Stannol HF34 solder on the shelf, which I could not bring myself to use up because of its extremely biting fumes. HF34 may be untypical; it apparently is a particularly active flux (based on organic acids, optimized for minimum residue on the PCB). In any case, it is halide-free and nevertheless very unpleasant to work with.As a side note, I realized that I was confused regarding the term "halide free" vs. "halogen free", and found this brief explanation somewhat helpful:http://www.indium.com/blog/halogen-free-vs-halide-free-redo.php

author: Mixka
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2017, 11:55:01 pm
content: Ok. Maybe it was just coincidence then, becouse I tried three solder before current one and all was including halides. For me, it was not just unpleasant. I got almost immediate headache, extremely dizziness and hard to breath feeling. With this halide-free I can solder all day long without anything. I have large open work place with good ventilation, but it was not helping with those earlier ones.
Best Kit Suppliers ?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: David Cutcher CEG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2019, 11:05:09 pm
content: I have a components kit available for Canadian and U.S. students taking my Udemy course "Electronic Circuits for the Evil Genius."BUTCan this community recommend companies that can put together kits and supply my students who are outside of North America?Thank youDavid Cutcher - Certified Evil Genius.
Best method for multi-directional high voltage, high frequency switching  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: willPowell
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2021, 10:31:04 am
content: Hi everyone,I am trying to:Send voltage across 3 loads (around 10kΩ each), one after the other, at around 30V.Current can be sent in both directions, since the power supply will be switching polarity (anode switches to cathode, cathode switches to anode dependent on DAC).Ideally switching between the 3 loads at around 1kHz or more.Here is the design I came up with:Where the power supply will switch polarity. The square waves were controlled by a microcontroller at 3.3V to the gate, with a pull down.Unfortunately this only worked properly in one direction - the other direction only turned on to around 2V.I believe this is due to as the mosfet turns on, the source voltage starts to increase to 30V but the gate is only at 3.3V (so the gate source voltage is less than the threshold) and the mosfet only turns on partially.I was thinking of gate drivers but unsure if that would fully turn on the mosfet when the anode/cathode voltage gets to 30V. Solid state relays could work but does not have quick enough switching.Of course if it were only in one direction I would use a low-side mosfet, so the voltage drop across the load is before the drain/source.Any ideas of a method that would work in both directions?Please keep it in layman's terms/with schematics as I don't have an excellent understanding of Mosfets.Thanks,Will

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2021, 07:01:46 pm
content: 10 kilohms is not much of a load, but do I understand you right that the voltage can be between +30 and -30 volts? And current can flow either way?What you show is probably how I would do it, but as you found out, the drive requirements are difficult. You identified that the gate voltage must be higher than the source voltage to turn the transistors on.What is required is a level shifter which can fully enhance the transistors at any voltage between +30 and -30 volts while not exceeding the maximum gate voltage of about 15 volts.

author: paul@yahrprobert.com
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2021, 12:31:28 am
content: If I had to get this done in a hurry I'd power each resistor with an H bridge such as the BD62130AEFJ.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2021, 06:28:42 pm
content: By far the simplest way is to use a an HV analog switch eg MAX14756 / 57 / 58 go to 70V.www.mouser.co.uk/c/?marcom=116310491

author: willPowell
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2021, 11:11:27 pm
content: This is nice, I have ordered a fast switching solid state relay but if that does not work I will try this.
Best method to remove cover from tape and reel package - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: babysitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2015, 11:46:19 am
content: Hi,the title says it all: What is the preferred method of peeling the cover tape from tape and reel packaging?Often I fiddle with a small screwdriver, scalpel or cutter, sometimes with my fingers, sometimes i cut the thicker tape and bend it to release the thinner cover foil... I think there must be a ideal method (or more as there are different combinations like polymer-paper, polymer-polymer sandwiches...)

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2015, 12:19:32 pm
content: Sharp tweezers work well.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 10, 2015, 12:35:08 pm
content: stanley knife

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2015, 07:13:02 pm
content: Sellotape and peel back, the stronger adhesive wins and makes it easy.
Best methods for getting an electric guitar signal into an Arduino or RPi - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jayfehr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2016, 04:09:53 pm
content: Hi, I'm wondering what the best approach is to getting the line-in signal from an electric guitar into a microcomputer or microcontroller for effects processing? The Pi has i2s, as does the Adafruit M0 feather so I'm thinking that is the best way to get the signal in, but what additional hardware will I need? Which i2s chip? Will I need a voltage divider or an op-amp? What are some gotcha's? I'm really just hoping for a starting point.Thanks in advance.

author: ade
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 10, 2016, 05:35:47 pm
content: i2s is digital so you need to build an ADC i2s circuit, for example using TI's PCM1802 chip or similar. That might be a project on itself.And unfortunately you'll find that i2s for audioinputis not very well supported on PIs, etc. and may require some kernel hacking to get it to work reliably.So depending on your expectations, you might be better off just buying a $5 USB sound card and use that for input.E.g.,:

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2016, 05:37:03 pm
content: Is the line in signal a direct output of guitar pickup ? Or is theline in signal a processed signal from a guitar amp ?In either case what are signal levels with respect to ground ?Regards, Dana.

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2016, 10:41:23 pm
content: Seen the latest Ben Heck video with Felix doing a guitar mod ?

author: kolonelkadat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2016, 11:11:13 pm
content: the peak output voltage of the guitar should be somewhere in the like 200mv-1v range, so if you went with an arduino, you'd probably want to feed the signal into an opamp before running it into the adc. im not sure the 12bit adc on the feather you mentioned will give the greatest sound, but it might make for some decent chiptunes.the raspberry pi is literally just a crappy computer, you get audio into it the same way you would on any other computer. a sound card.
Best Motor For Driving A Lead Screw Assembly - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: MattyT
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 08, 2019, 12:19:23 pm
content: How do choose the correct stepper motor?I'm looking at NEMA stepper motors which are small, compact and lightweight, but the speeds are obviously different depending on which motor I choose.So I know I need to consider my torque and speed requirements but to do that, where do I find the motor's torque-speed curve to select a motor that will do the job.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2019, 12:27:38 pm
content: Provided you have not gone too far down the ebay rabbit hole, most nema stepper motors should give a torque curve vs speed at a known drive current.Suppose starting backwards, what application is the lead screw being used for, is it actually a lead screw or a ball screw or acme screw etc, this effects the "efficiency" of the motor power to be delivered,Your top speed will be mainly limited by friction from the rest of the setup vs the torque the motor can provide without skipping steps. You can cheat this a bit if you trim in your acceleration / deceleration rates, so your not fighting static and rolling friction at the same time.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2019, 02:36:19 pm
content: First calculate your speed / torque requirements, and decide if it fits within the range of a stepper motor.(With stepper motors usefull torque tends to fall a lot abouve 600rpm).If your lead screw only needs to rotate very slowly you can add some gears or a timing belt, which results in less needed torque for the (stepper) motor.Then go to some site where you can buy stepper motors, get some datasheets and see if they fit your requirements.If the first fails to meet them, get a datasheet of a bigger motor, if the motor has muh more torque capability then you need, get a smaller motor."Usefull" torque of stepper motors also depends a lot on the quality of the motor driver and the supply voltage for that driver.Steper motors & driver combinations with built in position feedback are also becoming more common nowaday's.With position feedback you need less torque reserve for the motor, which can result in a smaller motor, which pays for the feedback components. With position feedback the driver also dynamically adjusts the motor current, which results in higer efficiency and less mechanical vibrations and noise.
Best option for powering high current projects with variable voltage? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Brad808
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2022, 05:01:15 pm
content: These last few months I've been getting random projects to repair that my lab power supplies can't handle (6A max in parallel). Things like portable vacuum cleaners, electric gate openers, those kids ride on cars, drills, etc that have a high inrush current. I've been getting by using random batteries, my car battery, etc just to test this stuff out, but it isn't really ideal. I'm curious what some of you folks are using? Should I be looking for a big beefy variable PSU? Would something like the RD6024 be powerful enough to handle the inrush current?

author: SmallCog
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2022, 10:26:05 pm
content: You could also consider something like thishttps://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwitgpnLkKL7AhWFJbcAHZfZC9oQtwJ6BAgGEAI&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DGUxszz_lo14&usg=AOvVaw2TSZdrpJ_EBn2kEc-G7GVXhttps://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000756407606.html

author: electr_peter
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 10, 2022, 11:12:31 pm
content: RD6024 is good option, but you also need additional mains PSU to build it. IIRC you can buy pre-built units now.Gophert has few high power PSUs (mains power).CPS-6017 (60V/17A),CPS-8411 (84V/11A),CPS-1660 (16V/60A)may suit your needs. These PSUs can be connected in parallel or series as well.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2022, 02:23:48 pm
content: I have sometimes used a variac with a bridge rectifier and capacitor bank to supply variable high current DC. But for safety an isolation transformer should be used also.Make sure the variac output is fused in case of a short.
Best option to balance charge a 4S5P DIY li-ion pack - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Ozzyfr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 04, 2018, 03:34:02 pm
content: Hi,I am looking at the best option to protect and balance charge a 4S5P battery pack I built myself.I know a BMS is not a charge controller and I cannot use an Imax B6 external, it has to be a simple and very basic power supply.I can't use 4 TP4056 as they share the same ground, I can use a BMS to protect against shorts and over discharge and i was thinking of mixing it with a charge controller to balance charge correctly but I can't find any good reference.Can anyone help me find the best way to build this pack?Thank you very much
best PCB fab house CA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Kdog44
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2014, 02:40:41 am
content: Hello I am located in Saskatchewan, Canada. I am looking for a good PCB Fab house (with a fair price) in Canada or United states that does rush shipping. Would anyone be able to recommend one? I am getting 2 pcbs that; is 54 X 80 mm, has a top silk, solder mask, about 35 holes. Thanks

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2014, 03:31:58 am
content: How many layers are your boards?Is this commercial or hobby?how many of each board do you want to have made?

author: Prime73
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2014, 03:35:13 am
content: take a look at:http://pcbshopper.comI use oshpark and elecrow

author: Kdog44
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2014, 05:38:06 am
content: Quote from: Smokey on August 29, 2014, 03:31:58 am- 2 layers- hobby- I need atleast 2 boards

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2014, 05:52:04 am
content: Unless you are willing to do one of the cheap Chinese board deals and wait for shipping, I think advanced circuits is the best bet for local quick turn.http://www.4pcb.com/33-each-pcbs/index.htmlSome of the specs:Min. qty. 4 Boards2-Layers, FR-4, 0.062", 1 oz. cu. plateLead Time 5 DaysMax. size 60 sq. inchesI've done that deal at work a bunch of times, but I always feel bad if I don't use close to the full 60 in^2.Not sure how much shipping will be to Canada.Now if you are a student, they will let you make just one board at that 33USD each price, but you have to have a university shipping address.

author: Fsck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2014, 06:01:04 am
content: depends on how rush is rush:http://www.apcircuits.com/

author: Kdog44
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2014, 06:56:36 am
content: Quote from: Fsck on August 29, 2014, 06:01:04 amBy rush I mean: produced sent and recieved within 2-4 days. I live in Saskatoon which is 7 hours away from where AP Circuits is located so I might use them. I need the boards for the WCRG held at the Calgary Mini Maker Fair.
Best place to ground my bench and equipment? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: signal
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2015, 06:56:34 am
content: I live in a two story house, and my lab is upstairs in my office.My house is concrete block construction with metal studs. So in my room I just have drywall and a wood floor. What is the best way to make a ground for basic electronics work? My desk is wood too, so there just isn't enough metal mass to use anything as a ground as far as I can see.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2015, 07:06:24 am
content: If your house is up to code it should have a mains ground at the outlet, that is the ground to use,

author: Polybus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2015, 07:12:06 am
content: Make yourself a good Earth by using a normal 3 pin plug.Get a decent earth wire - join it to the Earth pin on the three pin plug, and then use the other end of that wire to Earth your Bench and Equipment.And then just plug the 3 pin plug into your nearest power point - Excellent earth to be found in thereThat way you can plug the plug in and out whenever you want - but of course you will have to remember to plug it in every time you use your equipment.The Earth pin on the 3 pin plug is the "straight" one - ie: not either of the two angled ones....Polybus

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2015, 07:26:43 am
content: Only thought may be, as you are soon to go hooking it up to your wrist (yes through a 1M resistor, but it can still fry logic) call in a sparky to do a polarity check of the houses outlets, that earth is earth and your phase and nuetral are not inverted,As stupid as it seems, i can recount 4/13 outlets at my hourse, 2/22 at a neighbours and a number more that did not just have active and phase reversed, but one had active and ground reversed, nothing worked in that outlet, so people avoided it, but you can see the issue,
Best place to practice EagleCad and is this circuit right?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: laserpon3
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2014, 08:41:54 am
content: Hello Everyone,I'm trying to grasp the essentials about circuit design with eaglecad.I can etch my own single sided pcb's with green solder mask and solder reflow with my modified toaster reflow oven and have learned the majority of schematic symbols *.The circuit I want to make is the following circuit:(found on page 28 of this datasheet:http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm2596.pdfIt is an inverting regulator (I want to turn a SMPS into a differential one)I'm using a salvaged LM2596S from a buck converter (this one in fact:http://www.ebay.com/itm/181227591312?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649) and have bought multiple to be able to provide multiple voltages from 1 supply.The circuit I ended up making in eaglecad was this.I'm very sure I went in the wrong with the ground connection, on top of that I have no idea what where I could insert a pot to make this inverting regulator be adjustable as well.I really hope I'm not asking too much

author: Hideki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2014, 09:43:11 pm
content: Read the datasheet again. You have implemented the undervoltage lockout FOR the inverting regulator, but you haven't implemented the switching part at allFigure 37 is more like what you want. Possibly without the delayed start if you don't need it. My guess is you have no idea if you do or not.I would also suggest that you use Eagle's "smash" function on all your components and move their designators and values so they don't overlap other components and are not placed vertically.

author: laserpon3
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2014, 11:04:31 pm
content: Quote from: Hideki on March 12, 2014, 09:43:11 pmThanks very much!I'll look into all of this.
Best place to store magnetizers? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: AnyNameWillDo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2018, 11:50:01 am
content: So I have a couple magnetizer/demagnetizers and I'm not entirely sure where to put them. They contain pretty strong magnets and I don't want to store them somewhere where they might have a persistent magnetic effect and cause damage to equipment or components around them.Where do you store yours?

author: JS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2018, 12:14:01 pm
content: Stick it to the door frame, high up and you should be fine. There aren't a lot of things that are damaged by magmets... Mainly magnetic storage devices I would say, credit cards are the most sensitive ones hence high up in the door frame, away from your pokets or bags when going in and out. In any case, in years working with audio, moving strong speakers very close to my body I've seen only a few damaged cards in my pocket, two or three at most.JS

author: AnyNameWillDo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2018, 05:18:42 pm
content: Sadly does not appear to stick to my door frame; is it a terrible idea to put them near each other or in a shelf somewhere?

author: JS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2018, 05:30:44 pm
content: No, it's not a problem at all, just don't jeep it right next to where some sensitive rhing might go someday or something you don't want to be magnetized. Like magnetized screws are a pain... Then don't put them in a shelve right next to your desk where yo might leave your wallet while working. The field doesn't go too far, so if you have a big shlveing storage and you can stick to the structure not so close to either shelve you are pretty safe as well.I haven't seen people having too much care with those, just don't do anthing stupid with them, your wallet or HDD and you will be fine.JS

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2018, 06:22:11 pm
content: You could stick them to the refrigerator, that's where all the magnets in my house seem to collect.
Best practice for replacing neon indicators with LEDs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: vindoline
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 25, 2015, 06:46:08 pm
content: Hi, I'm wondering if there is a standard or "best" way to replace older neon indicator lamps (running off 120VAC) in vintage test equipment with LEDs. I don't want to debate weather neons or LEDs are "better." All I've seen is an appropriate sized resistor and an anti-parallel diode with the LED. Let me know if there is a better way! Thanks.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2015, 06:53:50 pm
content: That will flicker badly at mains frequency. You can put a bridge rectifier round the LED so it lights on both half cycles, but the component count has just gone way up, so if its a simple wire ended neon bulb, you'd probably do better simply replacing it with a new one.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2015, 09:23:18 pm
content: If you really want to do this then a series resistor and then a small package bridge rectifier feeding the LED. If the bridge is after the resistor then you can get away with a low voltage one as it will be limited by the LED forward voltage.The most important thing is to use an ultrabright LED. That way you can use a high value resistor to throttle the current right down and still get pilot light brightness (probably get away with <1mA). If you use a normal brightness LED then dropping nearly 120V in the series resistor is going to give you real dissipation problems.EDIT: The alternative would be to drop the voltage with an X rated series cap, but then you're talking X cap + safety discharge resistor + series safety resistor + bridge + LED, way over the top. Resistor + small (dip pkg) bridge + Ultrabright LED is your smallest and cheapest option I think.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2015, 06:46:09 am
content: 4 1N4148 diodes, a hyperbright 3mm red LED, a 220k 0.5W resistor, and you can fit most of it aside from the resistor inside most neon lamp clips. Another solution is to look for bicolour 2 wire LED's which strangely enough come in red-red for this use.

author: vindoline
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 26, 2015, 02:26:51 pm
content: Thanks for tips everyone. I'd already replaced the old NE2's and the light was still really dim. I checked the voltage and they're running off about 55 VAC from the secondary of the transformer. That's probably why they're so dim. I'll give your suggestions a try!

author: richard.cs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2015, 09:54:43 pm
content: Get an a.c. led - they have two dies in antiparallel inside the same package so they look like a single led that lights on both half cycles. I recently bought some cheap mains-coil relays that each had one inside as a indicator.I'd still stick with neons personally, a device with higher volt drop is inherently more suited to mains, but I guess if you want the directionality or something.
best practices in detecting relay contacts status - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Sultanpepper123
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 07:23:52 pm
content: Currently i'm experimenting with 12VDC energy meters latching relays and at least for me the feature of detecting status of contacts ( required by some clients ) which is built in as in the diagram below is quite interesting. Now i need to interface it to a microcontroller safely. At the top of my head i may think of using an optocoupler but my understanding is i need to isolate the grounds ? thus making the design a bit pain in the kneck, is this the only feasible method or are there other approaches ?. enter image description hereTL;DR pins 4 and 5 switch on / off depeding on status of relay, how do i sense/ measure status of the latch with those pins?

author: GerryR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 08:50:34 pm
content: If the 4,5 contacts are isolated, why not tie one contact to a pull-up resistor and feed the other to a micro input. If the micro inputs are already pulled up, then tie one contact to the micro common and the other to the micro input of you choice. The change of state tells what position the relay is in.

author: Sultanpepper123
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 09:01:46 pm
content: Quote from: GerryR on October 22, 2019, 08:50:34 pmThanks for the suggestion, looks simple enough. What made me worry at first whether there was any EMI or transients i should worry about.

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 09:20:53 pm
content: Quote from: Sultanpepper123 on October 22, 2019, 09:01:46 pmNot from the isolated contacts themselves. Avoid routing the connections between the contacts and the microcontroller close to, and parallel with the switched side of the relay coil.

author: Sultanpepper123
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 09:38:00 pm
content: Quote from: mikerj on October 22, 2019, 09:20:53 pmReally appreciate the help and sharing your thoughts.Quote from: GerryR on October 22, 2019, 08:50:34 pmAgain thank you sir for the help .
Best practices in multiple CPU/FPGA PCBs - power design - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: CptRambler
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 23, 2017, 09:27:22 pm
content: Hello. I'd like to ask a little question. I've done design for some "small" boards mainly consists of one CPU (soc), MCU or FPGA. Power design for them was quite simple a straight. Now I'm working on a board, which have FPGA (spartan-6) and Freescale/NXP iMX6 SoC on the same PCB. I've never done power design for two chips on one PCB. I'd like to ask what are the best practices/steps in power rail and power design at all in that complex projects. For example. Power sequencing. How is it possible to manage that with multiple different CPUs/FPGAs, etc. Btw, I don't want anyone to design it for me of course. Maybe it's a dumb question.Thanks.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2017, 09:50:30 pm
content: Take a look at some existing commercial products and see how it's done. For what you're doing I don't think you'll need power sequencing, just lots of strategically placed decoupling capacitors. If you're using a multilayer board you could have power and ground planes and then local regulators near the main ICs to get whatever other voltages they require.