Sole F80 Treadmill Repair - E7 Error (2016) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sc122524
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2025, 10:54:20 pm
content: I'm attempting to repair an older treadmill that I received as a gift. When trying to start the treadmill, it is able to power up successfully. But when pressing the start button, it starts counting down from 3 to 0, and it seems like it ever so slightly starts to try the motor before erroring out with an E7 error (Input power anomaly). I'm able to also run the calibration where it starts the motor for a brief second before shutting it off again, and reinitializes the LCD display, moves the incline motor back to its base, and then goes back to normal. (Still has the same startup error though).I've tried testing the various circuits on the board, and from what I can tell, the components appear to be within their normal range. I believe that the yellowish stuff that is near some of the components is board glue, but I'm not 100% certain of that. The stuff itself appears to be solid. I have no idea how long the treadmill has been in this state though, as I just received it recently. I'm fairly handy with electronics, so any other components that could be tested to determine if they are faulty I could probably do. The new controller board is $250, so if its a 10 cent capacitor, I'd like to start with that approach as opposed to replacing everything for a cheap component.I've checked as many components as I can reasonably get to, specifically starting with the MOSFETs that drive the motor. My assumption was that it was either having trouble switching those own, or else the capacitors are not charging properly to supply enough power when first starting up the treadmill. I've done the following troubleshooting steps:1. Connected the motor directly to a power supply to run it (it runs)2. Checked the RPM cable for the motor when it turns to see if it registers periodically (it does)3. Tested the incline motor (it goes up and down)4. I purchased another motor controller (though I think its slightly the wrong one) and it gets an E5 error.5. Visually inspected the circuit board for any burnt parts / connections (didn't see any)Unfortunately, I don't have any schematic of the system directly, but I do have a few of the service manual docs that have some advanced troubleshooting steps. Those didn't seem to really help in this particular situation.

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2025, 07:10:53 am
content: Input power anomaly can be from its self or guided to be so.Can you measure the input voltage of that moment?Guided anomaly would be overcurrent or stuff like that.

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2025, 02:05:33 am
content: G'day sc122524,The "Yellow stuff" will be there to mechanically protect the components from vibration.Is it a Switch Mode power supply?Focus on determining the power supply DC voltages that should be available. eg +5V, -5V, +12v, +24V.Specs from data sheets of components will give you operating voltages.Post a pic of the power supply section so members can comment.

author: sc122524
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2025, 05:02:55 pm
content: I was finally able to get the circuit board itself away from the larger frame. I removed the MOSFETs and tested those and they seem to be okay. Now I do have access to removing individual components if I needed to test those in isolation from the rest of the circuit board.I've attached a screenshot. The ref circled zone contains the MOSFETS (pre-removal). The green zone is the area for distributing power to the main treadmill motor. I had measured the output voltage of that to the treadmill motor and I'm remembering correctly, that was up to 12V. The pink area was the Incline motor section and relays. Those are able to run the motor up and down when I directly connect it to the power, but even then they aren't really used for the main motor so I don't think that is the issue.I've tested the input voltage on the main board itself as 120V, and its running through an extension cable. I did try and try without the extension cable and it had the same issue. It seems like the issue happens when it attempts to spin up the motor. If I am moving the motor when I start, its able to go for a few seconds if I keep moving the walking section but eventually it stops even if I continue to walk.

author: BurningTantalum
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2025, 05:02:26 am
content: Before you go anywhere else with this, it may be worth checking the 'yellow glue'. 10 seconds with a DMM to eliminate a known issue with the glue becoming conductive and also rotting component leads and/or board traces. I have come across this several times, from Japanese audio amps to Chinese modules and a Kawasaki ignition system, and the Chinese manufacturers are still using it so I am informed.BT

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2025, 06:49:22 am
content: Quote from: sc122524 on February 01, 2025, 05:02:55 pmSo overcurrent or tachometer missing.Is "TEST" below green LED for more below connector?The connector seems to be for serial communication.

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 04:45:39 am
content: Is there a small Backup Battery (Button cell or similar) in the Control Panel?I did some work on a Cross Trainer that was throwing up error codes.A new battery fixed the problem.I suggest you check that first before you jump into the power supply.

author: sc122524
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2025, 09:04:22 pm
content: Sorry for the lack of responses, I appreciate the suggestions that people have offered. I've been caught up on some other projects with a higher priority that have died down so I can focus on this again.Answering some of the questions here:"Is there a small Backup Battery (Button cell or similar) in the Control Panel?"Unsure, I will take a look to see if I can find a better angle."So overcurrent or tachometer missing.Is "TEST" below green LED for more below connectorThe connector seems to be for serial communication."The tachometer (reed switch) is there that seems to operate properly. I didn't quite understand your other comment about test. Are you asking if that is where you would place a test probe to see a signal? If so, I hadn't noticed that particular area yet, so I can take a look at it."Before you go anywhere else with this, it may be worth checking the 'yellow glue'"I will check the conductiveness of the glue to see if that is it."Is it a Switch Mode power supply?Focus on determining the power supply DC voltages that should be available. eg +5V, -5V, +12v, +24V.Specs from data sheets of components will give you operating voltages."I'm not entirely sure, as I'm not really a hardware guy. Are you saying using a MOSFET to trigger on/of for the voltages for the power supply or something else? The voltages available were 120v from the wall (obvious), then I believe was around 12v for the motor. I will take a look again to see if I can get more info.I managed to test the MOSFETs out of the circuit and they were fine, which was a bit of a bummer as I thought that may be the issue.

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2025, 04:28:09 pm
content: Close to the top edge is a green LED, between it and a black single column connector is a text TEST.The connector has pin names indicating serial communication, either it's in regular use or for some add-on stuff.A bit right from the LED is some text I can't read.Next to the right is a mostly white component, is it also a LED?

author: sc122524
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2025, 06:30:21 pm
content: Here is a closer image of that area. I believe that is another LED that is used every time to determine when the reed switch is triggered, but I'm not 100% sure of that.

author: sc122524
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2025, 08:03:52 pm
content: I connected a logic analyzer to the output from the board where it has the MISO, MOSI header. I'm trying to see if I can get anything when I trigger the start command, but so far I haven't gotten anything useful (nor do I think I will as I'm not sure its a signal issue).

author: sc122524
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2025, 08:29:33 pm
content: Here are some more photos I took from a doc that Sole sent me to help troubleshoot.

author: sc122524
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2025, 01:12:36 am
content: I feel like a dunce for this....but a good reminder to everyone....check your cables. I finally pulled out the wire connecting the upper and lower control boards after testing continuity and seeing that some of the lines were very touchy at best. The wire itself tested fine after doing that, so I plugged it back in again, after making sure it was connected solidly, and low and behold...the treadmill ran fine. After getting to the point of desoldering pieces off the board and resoldering it...it was a spotty connection that was the issue.Thank you for the help on this, and sorry to waste any time that I didn't check this earlier. I figured that when it powered up the first time, it couldn't be the bad cable.

author: sc122524
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2025, 01:16:17 am
content: It looks like I need to find a replacement for this cable, but online its about $30, which seems overkill for the simplicity. I may have to do that anyway, but if I can find the red connector for cheaper I think that is the only loose part.

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2025, 12:41:17 pm
content: I think it's pretty cheap, our p&p is easily 20€.Problem is that you probably get an equally bad replacement.It seems to be a pretty standard mold, but all of them have quite many internal configurations.Maybe original problem is that it can't handle what it should.Is it a picture of both ends of one cable?Wires seem to be the same for both connectors, but max. current most likely is not.I'd probably cut the connector off and solder the wires.

author: sc122524
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2025, 08:02:49 pm
content: Thanks for the reply. I actually managed to pull the pins out of the housing, make sure they were solid, then reinsert them and glue the wires in place. That seems to have resolved the wire being loose. Unfortunately, even though prior to this change the treadmill was working and moving, at this stage its lighting the display up, and the buttons are doing absolutely nothing anymore. I can't even get it into the calibration or maintenance mode. I'm attempting to check the upper display board now for issues and a visual check didn't show any signs of issues. The voltage does makes its way properly from the various buttons to the upper control board, so I'm not sure what is going on. I will continue to check that side out. I have a few devices like the Pirate Bus that I can put inline with the connectors and a logic analyzer and oscilloscope that I can check what is happening.The wiring is pretty simple though.GNDRXDTXDVccSafety KeyAC Fan

author: sc122524
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2025, 10:00:16 pm
content: I'm a bit stuck at this point on what to really look at next. It "feels" like the treadmill is in some sort of Demo mode where no buttons work but the displays shuffles through things. However, my attempts to get to the reset / engineering screens don't matter as it seems like the buttons aren't registering the input.

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2025, 11:09:02 am
content: After reassembling things many times you must start thinking how that affects them.A completely different and earlier operational thing can be mechanically damaged now.Something can be displaced and so on, it wouldn't be the first time.Maybe you must press a button longer, or few buttons simultaneously.It can also be a very standard thing, maybe safety something, like moving parts off line and so on.Visit a shop where you can test a machine of the same brand.

author: edgelog
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2025, 07:30:00 pm
content: Quote from: sc122524 on July 07, 2025, 10:00:16 pmChecking the manual of the F63 (which I think has the same software): try pressing and holding "Start" and "Enter" for three seconds. Gets you out of the child lock, if that is the problem.Holding "Start", "Stop", and "Enter" keys for a while should get you into the "Engineering mode". Possibly at the same time inserting the key. I seem to remember having seen a "Demo mode" in the "Engineering mode", but I can't verify that for the moment (the treadmill is covered with my daughters wardrobe right now...)

author: sc122524
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2025, 11:33:09 pm
content: I tried the "start" and "enter" combo, but unfortunately the buttons still didn't work. I'm going to check the cabling again to see if perhaps there is a data cable that is not working properly. The display gets the full power, so at least it doesn't seem like that is the issue.