Solder quality - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 05:15:47 pm
content: I've been using the cheap Chinese lead solder for a while and I get mixed results. Some joints are gorgeous. Smooth and shiny. Others are dull and not so slick and need reflowing.My Hakko tip is clean and at 350 degrees.I've found that Chem-Wik desoldering braid is far better than the cheap stuff I was using. Does the same apply to solder ? Which are the best brands to go for in the UK ?Yes, I've see one thread with a few solders on the Veroboard but that just mostly shows poor joints.Thanks

author: dom0
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 06:09:27 pm
content: 350 °C sounds too much for me for leaded solder. I usually use 250 °C, 350 °C only for really fat ground planes or tinning thick wires. 405 °C for road runner.I personally use Felder Sn60 Pb40 F-SW 32 at 0.8 mm thickness, costs something like 8 € for 250 g. Not sure about availability in UK, though, although I think that the brand doesn't matter much as long as you get Sn60/Pb40 with proper flux in it. OTOH solder is one of the cheaper things for us, why bother saving a few cents here?

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 06:38:42 pm
content: Get some quality solder, Farnell has some good brands like Multicore, Kester, StannolI think their UK "retail" (aka small purchases) version of the site is this onehttp://cpc.farnell.combut there's alsohttp://uk.farnell.comif that one doesn't work.There's 63/37 solder which is great and there's 60/40 solder, which is more "user friendly".The 63/37 is eutectic, which means it turns from liquid to solid almost instantly, once the temperature reaches a very narrow temperature range (maybe a couple of degrees C). It makes for better solder joints.The 60/40 solder stays liquid for a higher temperature range so it takes more time to turn to solid, so it's easier for amateurs and it makes it easier to work with lousy soldering irons.Between these, I'd still recommend going with 63/37 even if it's more expensive.There's a third and fourth option, 62/ 36/ 2 where 2 means 2% silver (Ag) or Copper (Cu).The Ag version is more suited to soldering surface mount components like tiny resistors or capacitors (some surface mounted components have silver in the ends which mixes with the solder for better connection.The Cu version... i think it's designed with added copper because it makes soldering iron tips last longer... there may be other benefits but I'm not aware of them or I don't remember them now.Here's some suggestions :http://cpc.farnell.com/multicore-solder/609961/solder-wire-crystal-400-0-71mm/dp/SD01822(about 2.2% flux) 250 gramshttp://cpc.farnell.com/multicore-solder/610008/solder-wire-crystal-510-0-71mm/dp/SD01827(about 2.8% flux) 250 gramshttp://cpc.farnell.com/multicore-solder/609985/solder-wire-crystal-400-0-71mm/dp/SD01823(500g , more value for money)http://cpc.farnell.com/multicore-solder/qlmp22/solder-lmp-22swg-250g/dp/SD00061(250g, with 2% silver)I would also recommend investing in some liquid flux. While the solders above all should have a a good amount no-clean flux in them, sometimes extra flux helps and too much flux is almost never a problem.

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 09:18:23 pm
content: Thanks for the replies guys but the question is, is it actually better than my cheap 63/37 ?I have used a flux pen and it does sometimes make for a better joint but I'm working on a through hole project with loads of IC socket pins and the tip is pretty ragged up now and the pins stop a nice distribution of flux. I've watched SMD soldering videos with the flux pipette or whatever being used but not sure that it would be any use to me.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 09:40:13 pm
content: I would say yes, if it's some no-name Chinese solder , then the ones I recommended should be much better. The flux amount (inside the solder wire) could vary, or there could be areas where there's no flux, you may have portions of solder that aren't quite 63/37 ... and so on.The Multicore solders in particular advertise having 5 separate "strands" of flux spread through the wire diameter, so that when you bring heat the flux spreads more evenly on the work surface and has a chance to work before it evaporates.IMHO it's worth investing some money on a good solder.Note that the diameter of the solder wire is also important.. the ones I linked to are around 0.7 mm which is a decent diameter, I personally have and use 0.56mm diameter solder (multicore 63/37) and I like it a lot for soldering pins and surface mounted components.Lower the heat of your iron to around 280-300c, get some paper handkerchiefs/napkins , clean the tip of the iron with the napkins to remove the crud and apply a bit of solder, then apply a bit of fux where you're going to solder and proceed to solder pins until you feel a new tip cleaning is in order.Skip the first minute or so as you won't have leads so oxidated to require rubbing with abrasive material, flux in the solder should be enough for that. Watch the soldering technique:Again you may skip the first minute if you want to.... this is a bit overkill ("avionics" grade, paranoid etc) but it demonstrates the proper way of cleaning tip, applying some solder to prevent oxidation and so on.. it's a good process to do before going through a lot of soldering.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 10:36:40 pm
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on February 08, 2015, 05:15:47 pmAbsolutely. Brand wise, Multicore is widely available in your market (no experience with Stannol AFAIK, but hear good things about it).FWIW, Kester has better availability here in the US, so is more common vs. Multicore. Other top quality brands would be American Iron & Metals (AIM), Indium, and Alpha Metals (Cookson). Not sure on availability in the UK though.Generally speaking, I'd go with:3.3% of fluxRMA if it's mostly new stuff, but if there's age to anything you're working on, such as repair, you'd be better off with RA instead (will cut through the oxidation) if you want to keep it to one roll.63/37 for general purpose0.5mm/0.020" to 0.6mm/0.025" wire diameter for general purpose (also note, the smaller the diameter, the more expensive it gets for the same roll weight)You'll likely need to dig into the datasheets to decipher which roll is which (rosin <R, RMA, RA>, no-clean, water soluble, and flux core size terminology). Wire diameter at least is more straight forward (mm, inches, or both).

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2015, 08:09:16 am
content: I like the eutectic nature of the 63/37 solder but the big sellers don't seem to be big on that alloy. For example, those Farnell links are all 60/40.I should have added that I'm working on one of these FR4 prototyping boards that's have single PTHs.The sockets are tacked on at the corners and I'm doing point to point wiring with Kynar wire, so that's a PITA anyway, especially as I'm doing data and address buses with several wires connected to some pads.If the IC socket pin is sticking though, applying flux with a pen gets tricky. It's a lot easier with those three hole pad boards. More room to apply the flux and more room to tack on multiple wires.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2015, 09:13:46 am
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on February 09, 2015, 08:09:16 amThe 62/36/2 Sn/Pb/Ag solder is also eutectic, and has melting point even lower at 179c (63/37 is at 183c). The last link is to this kind of solder... but as you can see they're more expensive.Yes, I've noticed 63/37 are rarer these days. I can usually buy them from one of the sellers that ship cheaply in Europe (TME.eu , Farnell, RS Online)

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2015, 09:23:21 am
content: I've just found this (Omega Rosin Free 63/37 2% Flux Fast Flow Solder)http://www.rapidonline.com/tools-equipment/omega-rosin-free-63-37-2-flux-fast-flow-solder-22swg-500g-85-6154Anyone know if this would be better than the cheap Chinese flux, with the advantage of no rosin ?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2015, 10:47:26 am
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on February 09, 2015, 09:23:21 amNo idea with it, as I didn't see anything stating what the flux actually is (suspect it's a no-clean, but can't be sure). Personally, I'd skip it without further information.Worst case, you'd be able to get 63/37 from Farnell (US stock, so there's a 15.95GBP shipping fee). Multicore MM00975 (RMA) or Kester 24-6337-0010 (RA) displayed on Farnell's UK site when I searched at any rate. Digikey would be another source that would ship US stock to the UK.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2015, 11:24:03 am
content: On Farnell there are lot of 60/40 solder with UK stock, but only one 63/37, wonder why.And according to the datasheet for the Omega solder it seems like it's no-clean type.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2015, 11:41:21 am
content: Quote from: neslekkim on February 09, 2015, 11:24:03 amDidn't see any 63/37 on Conrad either. What gives?

author: ttt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 06:10:58 am
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on February 08, 2015, 05:15:47 pmI did the same thing for a while and resorted to cheap stuff from EBay. Turns out the difference is dramatic: I will never buy cheap solder again. I thought of doing an in depth comparison at some point but here is a comparison I put together quickly (luckily I had not thrown away all of the Chinese solder I had):#1 Generic Chinese Roll 63/37 .3mm #1#2 Generic Chinese Roll 63/37 .3mm #2#3 AlphaFRY 60/40 .0625"#4 AlphaFRY 60/40 .032"#5 Oatey 60/40 .0625"#6 MG Chemicals 60/40 .032" (2.2% flux)#7 MG Chemicals 63/37 .040" (2.2% flux)#8 Kester 66/44 .015"All have rosin core. See the result in the pictures. Kester and MG chemicals wins hands down. The Oatey is about as bad as the Chinese one when you see it in person. The Chinese solder is extremely "gummy", so is the Oatey. I've had other Chinese solder in the past, they all look the same. There must be some impurities in this stuff.The Rosin flux I used in the second row is from MG chemicals.Temp was set to 300C. Though it makes zero difference on the finish, 275C and 325C look the same.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 08:29:01 am
content: Quote from: ttt on February 10, 2015, 06:10:58 amThose ^ are some rather nasty looking joints.FWIW, Oatey focuses on plumbing products rather than electrical, but that's quite surprising to me. Are you sure it's not actually Sn40/Pb60 (Oatey does make that particular alloy;here)?Granted, 60/40 will have a duller appearance than 63/37 all things being equal (working temp, joint size, and cooling time), but that's too drastic IME. And it shouldn't be grainy (disturbed joints have a wrinkled appearance).

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 08:39:38 am
content: Thanks for doing that. I've found some MG Chemicals 63/37 0.032 and was just about to buy and then noticed that that solder in the examples doesn't seem to have fully flowed over the pins. Or is it just my eyes ?

author: ttt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 08:45:45 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 10, 2015, 08:29:01 amYou are right, the Oatey IS Sn40/Pb60, you can see it on the label (now that I think of it I have no clue where it came from :-). Given that the Chinese solder looks similar and clearly says 63Sn/37Pb what does that mean? As I said before I've tried similar solder from EBay with similar results. Might be worth buying more samples to see if it's a common rip-off.I am talking about stuff like this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-3mm-10G-63-37-Rosin-Core-Flux-1-2-Tin-Lead-Roll-Soldering-Solder-Wire-/400707527667http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-3-MM-63-37Rosin-Roll-Core-Solder-Wire-Tin-Lead-Flux-Solder-Welding-Iron-Reel-/400675900639http://www.amazon.com/0-3mm-Lead-Spool-Soldering-Solder/dp/B0094FZ0KChttp://www.amazon.com/Rosin-Solder-Leaded-Electronics-0-8mm/dp/B007N6RQC4

author: ttt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 08:48:24 am
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on February 10, 2015, 08:39:38 amIt's probably just my crappy soldering

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 09:38:46 am
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on February 10, 2015, 08:39:38 amFlow itself looks good to me.MG Chemicals makes good flux and solder IME (on equal footing with Kester, Multicore, AIM, and so on). They don't offer as many variations as other manufacturers though. Even Multicore has cut back on their lead alloy offerings.If you can find it, AIM (American Iron & Metals) or Alpha (Cookson) make some excellent quality products as well, and at least here in the US, tend to be a tad less expensive vs. Kester.Quote from: ttt on February 10, 2015, 08:45:45 amI thought that was the case from what I saw in the photo, but couldn't be sure. And the appearance is far too similar between the cheap Chinese sourced solder and the Oatey to be a coincidence IMHO, but held off making a comment until I was sure on the Oatey's actual alloy.As per why this could happen, the position of Sn and Pb can be either way; electronics tends to go Sn followed by Pb, but it seems the position of the metals used is not universal. So I could see how that could get Sn60/Pb40 swapped with Sn40/Pb60 (possibly by mistake)That said, it's far more likely based on greed IMHO, as tin (Sn) is more expensive than lead (Pb). Now take it a step further; "60/40 is close enough to 63/37" in terms of where the numbers for the alloy fall, and less scrupulous vendors slap both labels on a single alloy (further increase their profits on the 63/37 labeled rolls they ship). So put both together, and voila; you get Sn40/Pb60 with a Sn63/Pb37 label slapped on it. All done to fulfill the goal of lining one's pockets as quickly as possible, ethics be damned.Quote from: ttt on February 10, 2015, 08:48:24 amYes it is.For prototyping, what you've done with the quality solder samples is sufficient IMHO. My one suggestion, cut back on your solder a bit so you form a fillet in the joint (curve between the solder on the pad and where it makes contact with the wire lead). Also keep the iron in contact with the pin/lead as you remove the iron (this is what pulls solder up the entire lead; goal is to have solder covering all of the lead, including the end where it's trimmed off).Plenty of free resources that have photos or illustrations of what this is might help (covers other stuff that might be useful).You don't need to be able to meet NASA/mil-spec/avionics standards, but if you can manage say 80%, you're doing extremely well (focus on the joint appearance; you can skip the "clean solder wire of oxide with alcohol soaked Kim wipe before soldering" types of steps). Necessary for their particular applications as a CYA, but not necessary for bench use/consumer products.

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 10:14:43 am
content: The MG options include RA and no clean flux, stating that cleaning is optional for the RA, which I thought was mandatory ?I'd prefer the best joint possible but as most of what I do is on prototyping boards with loads of point to point Kynar wiring, I don't really want to have to start scrubbing away to clean off the flux.As an aside, I have an anti-static brush that I bought to clean off flux with my Maplin PCB and Flux Cleaner but it looks like the latter dissolves the formerIs there a non-animal based brush option suitable for PCB cleaning ?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 10:54:18 am
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on February 10, 2015, 10:14:43 amTwo totally different things (between this and what I mentioned).What MG Chemicals and other solder manufacturers are talking about in this case, is flux residue. You don't have to clean the residue off for rosin or no-clean flux.I was talking about where you're supposed to clean off oxidation from the wire itself prior to even making a joint as per avionics/NASA/Mil-Spec requirements (solder wire is cut from the roll first, wiped down with a lint free tissue soaked with isopropyl alcohol, then used to make a joint; any remaining bit is tossed into a recycle container). Which is on the extreme end of requirements, not what most of us are doing (just soldering up experiments on a bench; nothing that human lives would rely upon for survival types of projects).Hope this clears things up.Quote from: netdudeuk on February 10, 2015, 10:14:43 amIsopropyl alcohol is commonly used for the task, and is inexpensive. You can also increase it's cleaning capacity by adding small amounts of either xylene or acetone if necessary (always test in a small, inconspicuous spot to see if it's going to remove the solder mask or legend).You can also substitute ethanol, methanol, or denatured alcohol for isopropyl alcohol (may also be called IPA or isopropanol).Quote from: netdudeuk on February 10, 2015, 10:14:43 amRather aggressive stuff...Hogs hair and horse hair are common (flux brushes in particular), and will work with the above chemicals (alcohols). But there are polymers made for the task as well that will hold up to the more aggressive cleaners.Search for "ESD brush" on eBay for example. As per quality brands, look for Menda (example), and Gordon Brush for example (be prepared for some sticker shock). Not sure of any brands exclusive to the EU market, so others may be able to offer alternatives.Personally, I like finding military surplus for bargains (example). Even though the shipping costs may seem high, do be aware of their cost if purchased elsewhere. They're ~20USDeachin the US (here). And if you buy multiple lots, you can get it to as little as ~1.75GBP per brush if you buy them all (assume VAT still needs to be applied).

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 11:23:30 am
content: Thanks for the reply. My first point as in isolation from your previous comments though and related to the fact that they are using the RA flux in some solders but there is a comment stating that cleaning is optional, which I didn't think was the case for RA flux (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering#Flux), unlike the 'regular' rosin one.So, the RA type would be better, if I didn't have to clean it away.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 11:46:05 am
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on February 10, 2015, 11:23:30 amAh, OK now I know where you got that.Best practice is to read the manufacturer's datasheets.FWIW, I can't recall any RA product that must be cleaned off for corrosion prevention, so I'd say wiki's incorrect on this point. Only type that must be cleaned to prevent corrosion, is water soluble (nasty stuff, recommend avoiding it entirely for hobbyist use).

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 01:23:01 pm
content: Ok, so I ordered one of these -http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/leaded-solder-wire-roll-0-81mm-dia-454g-sn63-pb37-4885-454g/It has tin & lead in the right ratio (to meet the eutectic need) and RA flux for better cleaning.I would have preferred the 0.6mm stuff but that's out of stock.If I don't get consistently smooth and shiny joints guys, you'll just have to PayPal me the cash

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 02:21:13 pm
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on February 10, 2015, 01:23:01 pmThat will certainly work.So if you don't get nice shiny joints, it's your fault!Do keep in mind that 0.032"/.81mm is a little bit on the thick side. Fine for thru-hole and tinning wire, but you won't have the control you would with a smaller diameter. Not well suited to SMD should you find yourself working with that, other than perhaps the largest packages.

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 07:01:04 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 10, 2015, 02:21:13 pmAgreed. I'll just have to push it into the job twenty five percent slower than I usually would

author: jbignall
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 11, 2015, 01:49:27 pm
content: Hi.I live in the UK and I've had decent results with Qualitek NC601-60-40 (0.71 mm) with no clean flux. It currently costs about 18 GBP + VAT for a 500g reel from Somerset Solders in the UK. The quality of your soldering equipment does play a part though as has been said before. I am in the process of replacing my Atten 938D soldering station with a Hakko FX888D as the Atten often struggles to heat bigger joints reliably even at higher heat settings.Hope this helps.Jon

author: 22swg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2015, 02:00:51 pm
content: I have been using Rapid (UK) 60/40 with good results , didn't change deliberately but added 100gm roll to an order , This brand is EAGLE anyone used .. results care to comment ?Edit ...Just used the Eagle 40/60 ( Taiwan ) 'Quality' solder from ESR (UK) seems OK .

author: Nerull
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2015, 02:46:13 am
content: Cleaning RA flux is generally required per IPC standards but in practice most don't cause problems. One thing to watch out for with no-clean fluxes is that if you do want to clean them off the residue is often much harder to get off than RA flux and tends to leave white residue behind. I've heard the phrase "can't-clean flux" a few times.As for your soldering, its hard to tell with the focus but a few do appear to exhibit signs of non-wetting to the lead - the sharp edge between the solder and lead. This can be caused by surface oxidation of the lead or the lead not getting hot enough. The prefluxed joints look better, which could point to oxidation. The amount of solder on each joint is a little bit excessive but I've seen a lot worse.

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 08:28:47 pm
content: MyLeaded Solder Wire Roll 0.81mm Dia. 454g Sn63 / Pb37 4885-454Garrived yesterday and I gave it a spin.http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/solder/leaded/sn63-pb37-4880/I have to say, I'm very pleased with it. In fact, I spent all last night dreaming about the gleaming jointsYes, really.I checked out the specs (linked to above), set the Hakko tip temperature to 260 (from my usual 350) and off I went. Although the new-found delay in the solder melting wasn't ideal, it flowed very well and left very bright shiny joints. The profiles were very nice and I didn't bother with extra flux.I would have preferred the 0.64mm but they had none. I like the solder so much, I ordered the last of the same type again.Most of the Chinese 63/37 solder joints on the protoboard looked ok until I started using the new stuff. Now they don't look so good, being dull and not so nicely shaped.So, I think it's pretty obvious that itisworth spending the extra money to get a better quality solder.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2015, 12:49:27 am
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on February 13, 2015, 08:28:47 pmSet the iron to 315C/600F and see if you don't like that better.

author: chhrisedwards
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2017, 09:48:28 am
content: you can try this out: Alpha Fry AT-31604 60-40 Rosin Core SolderI used this solder and I find it very easy to use n is of good quality.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2017, 09:13:28 pm
content: Quote from: chhrisedwards on November 09, 2017, 09:48:28 amThat was already tried in the comparison above. Not the worst, not the best.As everyone says, the best brands for electronics are (in no particular order; these are all top-notch) Kester, Multicore (Loctite), Stannol, Felder, MG Chemicals. Get whichever is cheapest and easily available where you live.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2017, 09:20:50 pm
content: Quote from: mariush on February 08, 2015, 06:38:42 pm60/40moreuser-friendly? The fact that it's not eutectic, that it has a plastic phase, is precisely what makes itlessuser-friendly than 63/37, because it's much more susceptible to movement during cooling. Youwantit to go from liquid to solid with no plastic phase during which the joint can be disturbed.60/40 is made simply because it's close enough to 63/37 for most purposes, but is cheaper because lead is cheaper than tin.It does baffle me that 63/37 is so hard to find in Europe compared to USA. It seems most of the European solder vendors have almost stopped making leaded solder.My standard solder is Kester 63/37 in 0.8 and 0.3mm, plus some MG Chemicals lead-free SAC305 in 0.8mm, and I just got some Felder 0.5mm 62/36/2 silver-bearing solder.

author: M4trix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2017, 09:32:18 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on November 09, 2017, 09:20:50 pmHave no fear !TME Solder wire with lead

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2017, 10:20:38 pm
content: Never heard of Broquetas S.L. (anyone with experience using it?).But if the flux ^ isn't up to par, at least Stannol is still making it.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2017, 10:39:48 pm
content: I'm curious how cheap is "cheap Chinese solder?"

author: M4trix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2017, 10:49:15 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on November 09, 2017, 10:20:38 pm+1I might order a sample. Just to try the stuff.

author: Neomys Sapiens
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2017, 11:31:47 pm
content: While we are discussing leaded solder here, and I would also recommend Multicore and maybe Stannol, with Sn/Pb/Ag being the ultimate problem-solver, I also want to include the Information on the best lead-free solder for manual soldering, that I ever came across of:Balver-Zinn Brilliant B2012, LF2220 NC, LF3135 NChttps://www.balverzinn.com/home.htmlI can recommend those definitely over Felder and any other that I had to work with!

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2017, 12:24:08 am
content: Quote from: KL27x on November 09, 2017, 10:39:48 pmOn Banggood, less than half of Multicore from Digikey. Probably less on ali or ebay.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2017, 07:57:44 am
content: Quote from: M4trix on November 09, 2017, 10:49:15 pmThat'd definitely be useful information for UK/EU members IMHO.Based on equivalent weight (1lb & 0.5kg spools respectively), flux, and diameter to Kester 44 vs. Stannol's offering (sw...24? flux is apparently their term for RA), TME's prices seem comparable to those in the US (i.e. vendors that don't gouge). So no 20EUR (or whatever) fee from Farnell to import Kester across the pond.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2017, 11:51:22 am
content: What's Digi-Key's pricing like for EU and UK? Cuz Digi-Key now has free shipping to Switzerland on orders of CHF54/EUR50 and up. That makes Kester and Multicore easy to acquire.

author: M4trix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2017, 08:36:27 pm
content: Btw, another source of soldering wire with lead (Felder) in Europe.Bürklin Elektronik

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2017, 09:08:45 pm
content: I have used Kester 44 60/40 0.031" solder for years and love it. The 44 flux is RA (active rosin) so it cuts through oxidation better. Joints are shiny and smooth. It wets the tip better than anything else I've ever used.I also have some Kester 285 (RMA, mildly active rosin) in 63/37, and 0.031", 0.020" and 0.015". This is very good too, especially for new boards and components that aren't crusty and oxidized with age.I have some Multicore with RA flux and it is nearly equal to the Kester 44. Maybe I'm biased to the 44 since that what I used since my earliest years in the hobby (around age 12).I also have some Kester 245 in 62/36/2 SnPbAg alloy. I love the alloy itself (you never seen joints SO shiny!), but the no-clean flux leaves something to be desired. I prefer rosin based.I've never tried the cheap Chinese solder, but I've reworked some joints on some cheap Chinese boards (Arduino clones and/or shields, sensors, etc.). Those boards were probably soldered using similar stuff. I don't know what that stuff is made of. It isn't like any of my leaded or lead free alloys. I presume they must make it from the dross sludge skimmed from the solder pots or solder wave machines. It's that bad.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2017, 02:16:23 am
content: Quote from: tooki on November 10, 2017, 11:51:22 amFrom Farnell's UK site..Delivery Charge: £15.95 once per order.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2017, 04:21:40 am
content: That's only for stuff they don't stock in EU warehouses.With Digikey, for Romania I think it's free shipping for any order higher than 200$ but it could be lower amount these days.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2017, 07:40:03 am
content: QuoteI have not searched banggood or ali for solder, but the cheapest deals I have gotten on last couple orders were from... Mouser. Under $10.00 per 1 lb roll, AIM.You can pay upwards of $30.00 or even $40.00 a roll for Kester or Multicore or whatnot. But they often have cheaper options. I'm not sure where AIM is made... probably mexico, lol. I can't tell the difference.Once you get around $10.00 per roll, I can't see any reason to worry about further savings. Your time is worth something.... enough to make the price of solder pretty moot at this point.*edit: fabrique au Canada!

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2017, 08:16:20 am
content: I've been getting really good results with the Henkel range of solder.. We are mostly a lead free shop now, but both their lead free and lead work really well.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2017, 01:06:43 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on November 11, 2017, 02:16:23 amWell that’s fine and dandy, but I was talking about Digi-Key, not Farnell.digikey.co.uk: “Free delivery to United Kingdom on orders of £33.00 or more. A delivery charge of £12.00 will be billed on all orders less than £33.00.”For every EU Digi-Key page I checked, it’s the same thing: free shipping on orders €50 and up, €18 shipping for orders below that.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2017, 02:28:35 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on November 11, 2017, 01:06:43 pmI used them as an example in regard to items warehoused in the US and shipped to the UK/EU (item not stored in UK/EU warehouses).FWIW, I've run into the same issue in reverse, and neither situation qualifying for any of the free shipping deals that may exist as it's an imported item/s.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2017, 10:51:06 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on November 11, 2017, 02:28:35 pmWell, Digi-Key has only one warehouse, the one in Minnesota, and all orders for the entire world are shipped from there. They must get one hell of a deal with UPS and FedEx, given that they ship 15,000 orders per day! (Apparently Digi-Key does all the pre-sorting themselves, delivering to UPS air containers that are ready to go on the plane.)I just ordered from them recently, and it really is free 2-day air. (I placed my order on a Wednesday evening, and it arrived Friday midday.) And they do their own customs clearance, so no surprise fees, but UPS collects the VAT on delivery. (Amazon, Reichelt, Conrad, etc. do both customs clearance and collecting VAT, even easier.)Farnell is really odd: If you order from their Swiss country site (which sadly is German and French only, no option to revert to English!) they've got free shipping for orders CHF50 and up, and items from USA say "no additional shipping charges, 10-14 days delivery, non-cancelable, non-refundable". But if you order from their generic "export" site, shipping is undefined, and they can't quote it before shipping an order. They apparently bill your card for the order, then go pack it, and then bill you again for shipping after the fact. o_OBut according to a customer service rep, Farnell doesn't do customs clearance, so I won't order from them, since that almost guarantees surprise fees on delivery in Switzerland. (If anyone in CH has experience with them, let me know.)Quote from: mariush on November 11, 2017, 04:21:40 amFYI, seems to be free shipping on minimum orders of USD100/210lei.

author: Jamieson
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2017, 03:22:02 am
content: On a side note, how DO they get the strands of flux into solder wire? It must be some sort of extrusion process, but seems like getting the amount of flux to be consistent would be tricky.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2017, 10:20:54 am
content: Quote from: Jamieson on November 13, 2017, 03:22:02 amThink a pipe (extruded) that's filled with flux, then drawn over and over again to achieve the desired outer diameter (i.e. stretched to get a smaller diameter each pass).

author: aabbcc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2017, 12:20:46 pm
content: So there are so many suggestions I'm getting dizzy.I'm looking on stocking up on a good solder, I'm mainly building synths with through hole parts.* 60/40 (have only been using this) or maybe 63/37 since I've been hearing good things about this* Low amount of spattering, currently using a roll of Stannol 60/40, 0.7mm, Kristall 400 and this spatters like crazy* Preferably some kind of no-clean that does not leave a lot of residue behind (the stannol one aboves leaves alot, although its transparent)* Available in Europe (mouserwould be nice since I'm placing an order there soon)* Thickness of 0.5-0.7mm* I think I want halide freeI found the kester 245 on mouser (altough its very pricey...)https://www.mouser.se/ProductDetail/Kester/24-6337-8800/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujnrjyvwJOvPegyNY9paaRDAht9AsrttEOz1HswD7f4gw%3d%3d

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2017, 10:26:19 pm
content: Quote from: aabbcc on December 25, 2017, 12:20:46 pmDetails:Alloy: 63/37 is eutectic, which means it will solidify at a single temperature. 60/40 doesn't, which means there's a plastic range (temp range before both metals solidify). Originally, 60/40 came into existence because lead is cheaper than tin. The difference however is negligible these days.Regarding spattering, the smaller diameters will splatter more as a general rule. But tier 2 brands and below are worse about it for a given diameter IME. It's just not worth the extra expense and aggravation than spending the money on quality supplies/consumables IME. As to why, it's harder to draw the solder + flux core down to smaller diameters without gaps/voids in the flux core.Remaining residue has to do with the amount of flux remaining after a joint is completed (assuming a properly executed joint). Which means the more flux in the wire by % weight, the more residue that'll remain. As per no-clean, some are rosin, modified rosin (semi-synthetic), or purely synthetic resin based. True rosin based are the easiest to clean, with purely synthetic resin types being the hardest IME.If you're ordering from Mouser, I'd recommend24-6337-0027(Kester 44, 63/37, .031", core 66/3.3% by weight) instead.As per halides, unless you've a specific requirement that these aren't an option, I wouldn't worry about it. They're more active than their non-halide equivalents, which means they do a better job at what they're designed to do. And FWIW, I find that halide containing fluxes are better for hobbyist users/small repair shop use IME (more forgiving in regard to a well executed joint).

author: ThomasCee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 26, 2018, 11:47:15 pm
content: Yeah, just purchased some cheap overseas solder myself ($6.90USD for a .5mm, 2% flux 500g roll, pic below). Wow, terrible. The shop I worked for years ago provided the solder, and I never thought anything of it; I figured tin was tin and lead was lead. But this stuff was horrid, similar to ttt's pictures on the first page of this thread. Icy cold and crusty looking, and no way any way can you get it to shine.So now I'm browsing Kester's line up, and now realizing how much I didn't know about the topic lol. Looks like for hand soldering I suspect I'll end up with Kester 44 for Rosin or 275 for No Clean in .6mm size (Just gotta decide which flux type I should go with).But yes as the OP asked, solder quality makes an enormous difference as I recently learned first hand

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2018, 07:15:45 am
content: Quote from: ThomasCee on January 26, 2018, 11:47:15 pmI'm the OP and yes, there really is a big difference. My MG Chemicals spools are far better than the Chinese cheap brands.

author: ThomasCee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2018, 06:53:41 pm
content: I was just blown away, I had no idea.Forum etiquette question: is it okay to ask some more "best solder questions" in this thread? Or should I start a new?Don't want to be that noob forum hijacker

author: cowasaki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2018, 10:08:17 pm
content: If you want the equivalent of 62.5/37.5 but with silver in it what ratio do we need to look for? {62/36/2} ??What diameter solder do most people prefer? {1mm} ??What temperature? {179C} ??Flux amount? {1%} ??I have a real of solder that is so fine it causes me problems. My favourite solder was a 500g real that so probably down to 50g left but the maker's sticker and info have long gone so I've no way of finding out what it actually was!I've looked on CPC's web site (they are literally just down the road) but there are so many I just usually end up taking pot luck.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2018, 11:43:13 pm
content: Seehttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder#Solder_alloysSn62Pb36Ag2 is euctetic like Sn63Pb37 and its melting point is 179c. There's also the 1% Copper variety, Sn62Pb37Cu1 (was used to reduce iron tip wear, not so much anymore) with melting point 183c like regular 63/37.I'd go with 2% flux or more, anything but water soluble, preferrable no-clean or RMA.I'd go with less than 0.7mm diameter, my current choice these days is 0.56mm - you can always cut a bit of solder and bend it two for thicker wire if needed, yet it's small enough to feed when soldering surface mounted components.If you want something cheap and good and hassle free, you have regular 60/40 for 13 pounds , 0.71 mm , 250g, 2.2% flux, no clean required :http://cpc.farnell.com/multicore-solder/609961/solder-wire-crystal-400-0-71mm/dp/SD01822CPC doesn't seem to stock the 63/37 and 62/36/xx varieties.RS Components (UK company) has* 30.5 pounds : 250g Stannol 62/36/2 0.5mm 2.5% rosin flux :https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0518012/* 41.15 pounds : 500g Stannol 62/36/2 0.7mm 2.5% rosin fluxhttps://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0517889/TME.eu (Polish company) also stocks 1% no-clean flux of that Stannol* 11.28 pounds : 250g Sn62Pb36Ag2; soldering wire; 1mm; 0.25kg; Flux: No Cleanhttps://www.tme.eu/en/details/s62a2hf32_1.0_0.25/solders-wires/stannol/640045/* 12.50 pounds : 250g Sn62Pb36Ag2; soldering wire; 0.7mm; 0.25kg; Flux: No Cleanhttps://www.tme.eu/en/details/s62a2hf32_0.7_0.25/solders-wires/stannol/640044/* 15 pounds : 250g Sn62Pb36Ag2; soldering wire; 0.5mm; 0.25kg; Flux: No Cleanhttps://www.tme.eu/en/details/s62a2hf32_0.5_0.25/solders-wires/stannol/640049/and you have a good deal here for regular 63/37* 13 pounds for500gSn63Pb37; soldering wire; 1mm; 0.5kg; Flux: F-SW26 (no-clean) :https://www.tme.eu/en/details/s63hs10_1.0_0.5/solders-wires/stannol/543068/* 15 pounds for500gSn63Pb37; soldering wire; 0.7mm; 0.5kg; Flux: F-SW26 :https://www.tme.eu/en/details/s63hs10_0.7_0.5/solders-wires/stannol/543016/* 21 pounds for500gSn63Pb37; soldering wire; 0.5mm; 0.5kg; Flux: F-SW26 :https://www.tme.eu/en/details/s63hs10_0.5_0.5/solders-wires/stannol/543014/edited : feet -> feed

author: cowasaki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2018, 09:07:22 am
content: Quote from: mariush on January 27, 2018, 11:43:13 pmhttp://cpc.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?catalogId=15002&langId=69&storeId=10180&categoryId=700000008637&pageSize=25&beginIndex=1&showResults=true&pf=111750266CPC's web site is terrible!Thanks for all that. I will take a look at the alternative companies you mentioned and it looks like 62/36/2 with 2%+ then.

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2018, 06:01:54 pm
content: Quote from: cowasaki on January 28, 2018, 09:07:22 amI like the MG Chemicals solder that I got from herehttp://www.circuitspecialists.eu/soldering/?cat=109

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2018, 09:45:32 am
content: I also am happy with MG.FWIW, their desoldering wick is the best I’ve tried, hands down.

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2018, 03:47:28 pm
content: In my experience and to my taste Kester has noticably better wetting than MG. Whenever possible i go for Kester.

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2018, 09:51:49 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on January 29, 2018, 09:45:32 amSolder wick. Another thing that can be bought for next to nothing on eBay and be junk compared with a slightly more expensive alternative from Soderwick or the like.

author: ThomasCee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 30, 2018, 02:06:16 am
content: Cowasaki, if you had one of those cheap little calipers floating around your garage, it could be handy so you'd have a frame of reference... I had no idea what I had either, then purchased the cheap stuff which was no good, but I also in the process realized 0.5mm was a bit too small for me; would have been a bummer if I had bought a full pound. Turns out my original good solder was about 0.8mm. Will try 0.6 for the Kester stuff when I buy.You can also cheat on your cheap wick; melt a little flux on it and its sucks solder like crazy

author: ThomasCee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 30, 2018, 03:45:33 am
content: Bud: Do happen to know which Kester stuff you have?I'm thinking of trying this one:Kester 44; Sn62Pb36Ag02; #44; diameter 0.025"/0.60mm; Core 66; 3.3% flux; Contains Halogen; 1 LB Spool; Part # 2471500018; RA flux(https://www.kester.com/products/product/44-flux-cored-wire).I am considering the #44 since I will be doing all hobby work, and like the idea of the active resin with really good flowing properties. I am considering the 2% silver content based on Macboy's report on post #42 how shiny the his joints wereI'm leaning that way,butif I went for a "no-clean" flux, I was considering the Kester 275. Best I can tell, 245 is better for production, and 275 was better for hand work; but, is that true?Kester's description seeeeeem to indicate that but I'm not sure.Kester 245:https://www.kester.com/products/product/245-flux-cored-wireKester 275:https://www.kester.com/products/product/275-flux-cored-wireAlso this thread was interesting:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/kester-245-vs-kester-275-for-sn63pb37/So if I went 275, I'd get:Kester 275; Sn63Pb37; #275; diameter 0.025"/0.60mm; Core 58; 2.2% flux; Contains Halogen; 1 LB Spool; Part #2463377617; No-Clean flux.I'm sure it will flow well, buttttt...... Will it flow as well as the #44?Thoughts?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2018, 12:35:38 pm
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on January 29, 2018, 09:51:49 pmAbsolutely! (And yes, the MG is IMHO way better than Soder-Wick, which itself is excellent!)

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2018, 03:10:59 pm
content: Quote from: ThomasCee on January 30, 2018, 03:45:33 amFor hobbyist use, I'd recommend going with Kester 44 in 63/37 alloy, a diameter of .025" or .031", and core size of 66 (aka 3.3% by weight). This will keep you to a single roll of solder which is also more cost effective than multiples.The reasoning behind this is that its RA flux core is good for both new and old boards & components. Also note that 63/37 is less expensive since it contains no silver.Both alloys are eutectic and make shiny joints.

author: ThomasCee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 07, 2018, 05:15:36 pm
content: K, that makes sense. The experimenting bug has bit meThat's what got me curious about the silver stuff.I am finding alot of places in the states have 25 order minimums, or they are almost twice as expensive as the other places. Still browsing; I have some of my old "good" .031 63/37 left, so it's not critical yet; still price browsing.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2018, 07:14:51 pm
content: Quote from: ThomasCee on February 07, 2018, 05:15:36 pmThe following sources might be of interest (US based warehouses):MouserDigikeyNewarkAll-SpecThis list isn't all-inclusive, but they sell single rolls (buying directly from Kester will involve Minimum Order Quantities).

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2018, 03:45:48 pm
content: I can think of absolutely no reason, besides cost,notto try the 62/36/2 alloy having 2% silver, vs a more typical but less expensive 63/37 or 60/40.The 62/36/2 alloy is eutectic, and melts at lower temperature than even 63/37. Silver has the highest thermal and electrical conductivity of any metal, so this alloy has better conductivity as well. Joints will not only have a smooth shiny surface, but a bright "color" as well, giving them a beautiful mirror-like appearance, compared to the shiny but slightly grey appearance of 63/37. The addition of the silver improves mechanical strength and helps prevent surface oxidation of the solder wire, improving shelf life. (I have a couple rolls that are several years old and still mirror-shiny). If you solder to silver plated terminals (such as inside old Tek scope) then you must use silver-bearing solder to prevent errosion of the plating which destroys those terminals. The only negative I know of is cost, so if you can afford the one-time higher cost of the roll, then go for it.You will not regret Kester 44 with size 66 (3.3%) core, no matter which alloy you go with.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2018, 06:02:31 pm
content: FWIW, if cost wasn't a factor, I'd use 62/36/2 all day long. For disclosure, I've a few of the small spools from RadioShack that get used primarily when stronger mechanical bonding is required.Unfortunately, the current prices will make you cringe:Kester 24-6337-0018($52.90 per 1lb spool)Kester 24-7150-0018($110.18 per 1lb spool).Don't know about anyone else, but $100+ for a single roll of solder is too much for hobbyists IMHO. Better to find 62/36/2 in a smaller roll.As per temps, it's not that different at all. 62/36/2 melts at 179C, while 63/37 melts at 183C. So a whopping 4C difference.

author: lmaokore
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2018, 09:21:09 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 08, 2018, 06:02:31 pmThere are some 1lb spools of 0.5mm Alpha Metals Sn62 for about $35 on Ebay. Not too much more expensive than 63/37.62/36/2 looks absolutely beautiful compared to 63/37.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2018, 12:38:09 am
content: Quote from: lmaokore on February 08, 2018, 09:21:09 pmAt that price, it would be worth it.But for fresh solder, the silver bearing alloys are quite a bit more expensive these days.For small tubes, it's possible to get 62/36/2 in Kester 44, .025" in a small solder pak (Kester 83-7145-0415). It's under $5 shipped, so there's no need to skip out on it altogether.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2018, 01:09:19 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 08, 2018, 06:02:31 pmThat said, realistically, even at $110/lb, it's not that bad! I mean, how much solder do youreallyuse? A pound of solder lasts for thousands and thousands of joints, the cost per joint is negligible.It's one of those things, to me, like dish soap and laundry detergent: even if I buy the "expensive" stuff, it's still negligibly cheap in the grand scheme of things...

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2018, 02:01:11 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on February 09, 2018, 01:09:19 pmI agree with your logic.Sadly, $110 is a big chunk out of a hobbyist's budget. So this was my guiding principle/POV when I made my post.Regarding cost of a roll of 62/36/2, I've seen it priced similarly to 63/37 (~mid $50's). The unfortunate part is they have MOQ's (25 or 50 rolls of Kester 44; only the diameter differed).Another thing I noticed, is TEquipment offers a 1lb roll of 63/37 for $11.53(Amerway 63/37). It's US made, contains RA flux @ 3%, and is .032" diameter. I've not used it, but the handful of reviews are positive. Unfortunately, Amerway doesn't offer 62/36/2 at all.Digging around, I found a 1lb spool ofAIM 13772which contains 62/36/2 for $36.51 (RMA @ 3%, .025" diameter). Proof that the people who run Kester are extremely greedy or insane. Probably a bit of both IMHO.

author: hrbngr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2018, 08:29:50 am
content: nanofrog,Newark has the Kester 24-7150-0018 you mentioned at a good price: (though they don't have the 0.20" / 0010 size)http://www.newark.com/kester-solder/24-7150-0018/solder-wire-62-36-2-sn-pb-ag-315/dp/34C5668$55.01Another silver option to the 24-7150 could be:http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Soldering-Rework/Solder/Solder-Wire/24-7150-9702-16600I had read in another thread where you mentioned the 0.20" diameter size as a good option, along with it being a core 285 vs 44. So, primarily RMA vs RA?Finally, how about some Cardas Quad Eutectic or Wonder Solder signature?http://www.percyaudio.com/Catalog.pdfp. 15 solder wire.1lb Wonder Solder Signature 21ga $771lb Cardas quad-eutectic 20ga $63.50There seem to be some nice 62/36/2 silver eutectic options out there, but are they inexpensive enough to get you to switch? :-)

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2018, 09:14:29 pm
content: Quote from: hrbngr on March 24, 2018, 08:29:50 amYes. After you've decided on an alloy, diameter, and flux amount (core size or % by weight), then it's down to the flux type between Kester 285 & 44.Quote from: hrbngr on March 24, 2018, 08:29:50 amMarketing BS, so do yourself a favor and skip these. Get the Kester instead (or AIM, Indium, Alpha Metals, Loctite/Henkel/Multicore, ...).

author: Neomys Sapiens
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2018, 10:46:12 pm
content: An update on Balver: I retested the Pb-free Brillant2012 and I am still convinced that it is the best for manual soldering that I ever encountered. Now I managed to noodle some 63/37 and some leaded solder with silver out of them and I will try them out when the next opportunity arises.

author: aabbcc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2018, 11:19:38 am
content: Anyone tried MG Chemicals 4884-227G? Pulled the trigger on this 63/37 solder (which for some reason is a hard alloy composition to find in Europe).Can't really find a data sheet for this other then the info stated in their catalog:Sn63/Pb37 RA Solder WireThis wire is complemented with an RA flux core, strong enoughfor excellent tarnish and oxide removal while producing brightshiny solder jointsRA Flux residues are non-corrosive and non-conductive, andtherefore can be left on the board or cleaned with one of MG’sflux removers. (See page 14)Rosin activated flux core (RA)• Eutectic alloy• Rapid wetting / Fast flowing• Consistent soldering• Non-corrosive• Non-conductive flux residue• Optional cleaning• Standard Flux Core percentage at 2.2% *• Melting point: 183 °C / 361°F

author: agehall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2018, 11:44:06 am
content: I'm using 4884-454G (which I suspect is just the 23AWG version of what you are looking at) and I like it a lot. It's pretty much the only thing I use now.Anything specific you want to know?

author: aabbcc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2018, 12:07:46 pm
content: Quote from: agehall on April 16, 2018, 11:44:06 amSweet! Yea it's just a different diameter.*Does it spatter a lot?*Does the flux leave a nasty brown residue or is it more white/clear?*Does it leave alot of flux residue?*Do you remove the flux residue afterwards? If so, is it easily removed with isopropyl alcohol or do you suggest to leave it there?

author: agehall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2018, 12:36:56 pm
content: I don't think it splatters a lot. At least I've never thought about it.Since mine is fairly small diameter, there isn't all that much flux in it, so I almost always use AmTech 559 along with it. I guess I could try some soldering on a test board without any additional flux and also see if the residue (assuming there is some) is hard to remove.I might actually stream it on Twitch..

author: Wirehead
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2018, 01:04:11 pm
content: Using Stannol HS10 60/40 here. Although 60/40 - it makes nice shiny joints with good wetting

author: djos
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 08, 2019, 12:31:24 am
content: G'day guy's, interesting discussion, I've been using cheap RA Solder (below) from Rhino tools for ages and it's been generally pretty good.https://rhinotools.com.au/product/solder-06mm/I build a lot of stuff and thought it was time to up my game to some "good stuff". Unfortunately, I made the mistake of trying the no-clean Multicore solder and found I really hate the stuff! It spits like crazy even at 270c. When it works it produces a really nice joint but it seems to need much longer dwell times to work well. I think it may not like being used on HASL PCB's.https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/multicore/386876/82-121-ND/2498919I think next time I'll buy the normal RA version instead of the NC version and see if that is better. In the meantime, I've gone back to the cheap stuff - If anyone in Melbourne wants my 99% unused roll on NC solder, PM me - I'd be willing to trade it for something of similar value, ~$50 AUD iirc.