hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
ersa i-conX solder station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gbix
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2019, 12:40:46 am
content: hican anybody send a photos of pcb soldering stations from ersa i-con1, i-con2 and other?especially interested versions with interface like i-con1c, i-con2call this info needed for connection with Ersa IRHP 100Athx!

author: Hogwild
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2019, 06:08:41 pm
content: There's no need to request photos here. There are plenty of them on the Web. Just use Google Images and enter the model numbers you want as search terms. You could always add "+ PCB") to narrow the search more quickly.

author: gbix
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2019, 10:30:05 pm
content: i have i-con 2 and i-con1, but i dont find any pcb photos of i-con2c with interfacebut i create own interface for simple i-con1 or i-con2 for air and heaternow on testing

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2019, 06:52:47 pm
content: I've taken some, you can find them here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ersa-i-con2v-(port-switch-hack)/msg1197874/#msg1197874

author: gbix
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2019, 07:37:58 pm
content: yes. i sawbut its without interface db9 on back panel.may be red connector is interface?and it must have addon pcb with optical isolation?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 01, 2019, 07:40:29 pm
content: I don't see how this is supposed to help you. That is simply COM port. Stations with no port have no components populated on PCB for it. But simply populating them will not help because you won't have proper firmware for it to work. And MCU is read protected.

author: gbix
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2019, 09:43:20 pm
content: its not simple com2 port. its also have pins for heater, air cleaning and for somethingfirmware have all function for interface and pinsbut not have optic isolations and ics for rs232 and pinsi think i-con XC have addon pcs with this componets
Recommend fabric ESD wrist strap that is durable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hogwild
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2019, 04:00:35 pm
content: Hi everyone:I'm just a hobbyist, but I've been through two fabric ESD wrist straps in the last 3 years. Maybe I wear them a little tight, but they've had very light usage and otherwise don't get abused in any way that I can imagine.Can anyone recommend a fabric ESD wrist strap that is really durable, available in Canada, or the US?Thanks

author: Leighcrx
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 30, 2019, 04:33:43 pm
content: You can get stainless steel ones, not that expensive. More reliable and hard wearing, just watch out if you have hairy wrists.https://www.antistaticesd.co.uk/shop/grounding-products/esd-wrist-straps/adjustable-stainless-steel-wrist-strap/Sorry not sure about US distribution

author: Hogwild
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2019, 06:02:20 pm
content: Thanks, but the metal ones irritate my skin badly. I need a fabric one.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2019, 09:21:20 pm
content: Anything 3M (genuinely 3M) will probably be fairly robust. Straps are considered to be pretty disposable items though.

author: Hogwild
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2019, 01:36:11 am
content: My first strap years ago was a 3M. I guess the "3M" was short for 3 months, cause that's exactly how long it lasted. Are there any with a warranty?

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2019, 03:29:25 am
content: Get a bracelet and add a ground wire to it?

author: grifftech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2019, 05:04:58 pm
content: 24-carat gold
Rugged, well-built NOAA (AM/FM maybe?) weather radio? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hogwild
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2019, 09:25:18 pm
content: Hi everyone:AS part of some mild prepping, I'm doing, I would like to get a well-built, durable portable weather radio. I'd prefer one that includes AM/FM. I've been looking using Google for a while, but I found what I figured I'd find-nothing. Is there still anything made that is durable and will last years, or just the usual crap from the usual brands?I'll build it myself if there is a kit that's simple enough and not miniaturized.Thanks

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2019, 02:43:01 am
content: FRS/GMRS radios often can receive weather. Lots of them to choose from.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2019, 11:22:06 pm
content: the weather channel made a tv/radio that... picks up the weather channel.. but the problem it its analog. runs on D cells (great actually), saw it at a thrift store before... maybe there is a updated version.. I would have bought it even with the CRT if not for the fucking video channel format changes.. if it had a receiver which can do both however.. actually got a little sad, it felt crippled by society(exactly what you need to survive.. weather events)but you need to wonder what they were expecting (the day after tomorrow?)

author: Hogwild
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2019, 11:52:09 pm
content: Aren't most of the FRS/GMRS radios transceivers, though? And include big LED/LCD displays. That would mean poor battery life. Is there not a purpose-built portable radio weather anywhere that's well-built?Heh heh. That sounds like fun...lugging around a CRT.

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2019, 01:04:04 am
content: Yes, FRS/GRMS/Amateur are all transceivers. Simple LCD displays consume essentially no power (without backlight).If you want small...https://midlandusa.com/product/hh50b-pocket-weather-alert-radio-copy/I have one of those and it works well.There are small FRS radios like...https://midlandusa.com/product/x-talker-t20-walkie-talkie/Another option is amateur (ham) radios. They often can receive outside the ham bands so you can get weather and public service. Some of those would be rugged, but they are expensive. An example...https://www.yaesu.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts&ProdCatID=111&encProdID=87CE6C1FF54D5BBCA7F39179AB3B1511A low cost popular ham radio is the Baofeng UV-5R. ~$30
Samsung Galaxy S10 5G teardown (with nice photos, cost estimates) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: I wanted a rude username
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2019, 02:32:26 am
content: https://www.techinsights.com/blog/samsung-galaxy-s10-5g-teardownKey takeaways:Two stacked PCBs which are "substrate-like PCBs", or SLBs, i.e. they have "conductors down to 10 um or 15 um in width  microvias that can be blind or buried in diameters down to 10 or 15 um"Roughly half the occupied board area is taken up by power management ICs and their associated passives, diodes, etc. (well, I was surprised)The phone's radio doesnotsupport the millimeter-wave spectra of 5GThe 256 MB flash costs about USD $18 (if there was any doubt that manufacturers have beenabsolutely reamingcustomers by charging $100 or more for each higher storage increment ... and removingmicroSDcapability)Total BOM cost is about USD $500

author: KE5FX
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2019, 04:49:18 am
content: Yay, let's disassemble a 2020-era phone and post 2000-era VGA photos of it.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2019, 05:25:39 am
content: or waste internet with MBytes of useless, blurred, photographically incorrect photos. havent we learnt that smaller packet radio signal is better where possible? btw i have few older nokia bricks here.

author: I wanted a rude username
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2019, 05:32:51 am
content: Quote from: KE5FX on October 28, 2019, 04:49:18 amAre you looking at the right page? The images seem to be 1800 x 1100 pixels, which is more like "true HD". Examples:

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2019, 04:08:54 pm
content: Interesting shots, thanks for posting.Agreed about the usability hit of missing SD cards, not to mention batteries that can't be trivially exchanged.I'm not buying any new phone that does not have those two boxes ticked... the (uncompromising) customer is always right!

author: KE5FX
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2019, 06:11:45 pm
content: Quote from: I wanted a rude username on October 28, 2019, 05:32:51 amHmm, the photos I see on their site are about half the size of the ones that show up in your post. No clue what's up.Still not great quality. Many part numbers are invisible, and focus isn't great.

author: I wanted a rude username
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2019, 10:35:12 pm
content: It's justmodernbad Web design. I was looking at each image of interest in isolation (right click -> View Image). Have to do that these days, asresponsive Web designoften means you are not presented the full resolution.They're definitely holding back though. Look at the die shot detail. They probably want to tempt us into paying for their report. Which is a legitimate business model.
Does an inline bathroom vent timer exist? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: vintagepc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2019, 10:51:43 pm
content: Just curious if there is such a thing as an "inline" bathroom vent timer or switch.My bathroom fan and light are hard-wired together to the same switch. The light itself has a switch too. However, there is no way to turn on the light without the fan.These fans (in the US, at least) all have an internal 2-prong standard outlet which has a short pigtail to the fan motor (since the housing is permanently installed to structure and finished wallboard this is designed to allow motor replacement/service.).Is anyone aware of a product that could be placed inline in this plug/socket in the fan to either time it or just allow it to be manually switched? The terms I've tried searching are too generic and I only see in-wall types which are of no use to me - I'm renting and therefore cannot alter the building wiring, hence searching for a solution that can be dropped in and removed by a homeowner, and self-made gadgets are probably not a good idea; it's obviously easy to DIY but opens a can of worms if a maintenance worker sees it etc.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2019, 03:45:06 am
content: Maybe try to find a remote outlet switch that can fit in the tight space?

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2019, 04:32:13 am
content: Cant you install/use a pull chain switch ?

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2019, 06:27:37 am
content: You could certainly make up any kind of device you want, all you need is a plug and a receptacle, the sort designed for replacing the ends on extension cords. The proper way to do it though would be to run a new wire directly to the fan and install a separate timer near the light switch.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2019, 09:22:51 am
content: In UK wall mount fans come in either stndard on/off or timed off. You can also get specials like fans that respond to humidity.The timed fans have a normal on/off fan and then have a little circuit that does the timing.The wiring is obviously different, it needs the mains permenantly and the on/off is just a control.On/off fans just turn on/off the mains power.

author: vintagepc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2019, 03:08:08 pm
content: Quote from: Bud on October 26, 2019, 04:32:13 amHmm, that may be the best option given space constraints.

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2019, 03:15:29 pm
content: Why not replace the switch for a dual one? Just put the old switch back when you move out.Or is the fan wire spliced at the light socket?
[MOVED] UNI-T UTG932/UTG962 200MSa/s Function Arbitrary Waveform Generator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2019, 03:18:29 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-utg932utg962-200msas-function-arbitrary-waveform-generator-220394/?topicscreen
Double surge protector bad ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Jan Audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 02:32:39 pm
content: Hi, i have a APC wall power supply socket like this :I got my Playstation4 a TV and a TV-receiver on it.The PS4 crashes in stand-by mode, and i was reading this online :The PS4 has a surge protector inside, so your own surge protector is not needed and is causing the crashes.That is a strange thing, 220volt is not my business so i post it here.Ok the PS4 crashes i dont mind,now my TV receiver start forgetting all channels, sometimes just a few.So are these APC surge protectors not good ?How can the PS4 crash with 2 surge protectors, not with just one ?thanks

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 07:00:12 pm
content: Many devices with SMPSs have a surge protector inside, in the form of a MOV. Having multiple surge protectors should have no problem, the one with the lowest breakdown voltage will clip the surge first, but the rest will probably join in to clamp some of it.I think your problem is much more likely to be caused by brief supply dropouts - I would be looking for poor plug/socket contacts.Surges aren'tthatcommon on the mains.

author: Gregg
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 09:26:27 pm
content: It would be very easy and cheap to replace the APC surge device with a new device of known quality and see if the problem goes away. MOVs with each surge they suppress will have a lower threshold voltage until they fail short circuit under normal mains voltage and trip their circuit breaker or fuse.It could be that your suppressor is clamping lower than desired voltages to the point the TV and PS4 drop out enough to lose their memories but not enough to totally shut them down.
What kind of charger or what is this unit actually? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Chriss
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2019, 07:12:54 pm
content: Hi!I found this device on the nethttps://powermaxconverters.com/product/pmbc-12-volt/cos I wish to have a heavy duty car electric power supply to have a stablepower source to the car until programming the car ecu's.My question is:1. is this actually a regular battery charger with more power then a standard one?2. it says it can continuously handel 100A (some model, other 55A etc.), what that means?For me that means does I can connect 1.4KW over several hours to the unit, through that thin sheet metal clamps on the picture.From my perspective that is not possible with that clamps and maybe the cables are also a weak point.3. can this unit actually delivery high current, lets say 100A for a small amount of time like in somesituation where are peak voltages and currents are reached? Or what?What you say about the description of the units on the link and a real world situation with this unit?Thanks.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2019, 09:17:21 pm
content: Just an overpriced power supply. If you want something on a budget and are willing to do a bit of hacking, mod some ATX PSUs.You can also look at inverter/charger units of the kind used for RVs and other small off grid systems.

author: Gregg
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2019, 04:07:22 am
content: There are some warning signs for this product:1. No certifications listed2. Warning not to leave this device connected and unattended.3. Made in China sticker; not that made in China by itself indicates poor quality, but added to the above items it should be another warning that this may not be the device you want to trust fully.At least they have a real address and real phone numbers; call them up and ask to speak with an engineer and see what develops. Ask what the certifications are and why they don’t have it UL listed. If all you get is marketing talk and no substance, just skip over this one.My personal favorite battery chargers are the Blue Sea Systems marine certified for use in boats.
Building a camera / microscope for smd soldering work - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dexters_lab
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 18, 2019, 05:49:32 pm
content: It looks like i might be doing a bit more soldering soon and it'll be smd, so i have been thinking about some optical helpnow i remembered i had a c-mount macro zoom lens here so wondered if i could build something myself as a project to get me startedI wouldn't mind some ideas on the stand, so would welcome suggestions for one that is sturdy and a good size that can accomodate the camera and the lensI'd also take thoughts on the lens i have, it's a Kowa LMZ45T3 (18-108mm f2.8 c-mount macro zoom), i've done some basic checking and it does seem to be suitable at least to an extent. It is big though, weighing in at 600grams and a length of about 170mm it's going to need a big stand!https://lenses.kowa-usa.com/macro-zoom-lenses/523-lmz45t3.htmlAt full zoom i get about 110mm of working distance and a DOF of about 1mmat full zoom it does tend to flare quite a bit unless it's stopped right down which might be limiting?I only have a B&W standard def camera at the moment that outputs composite video so it's hard to judge from these test pics but it looks pretty good to me, once it's in HD and colour it should be ok?

author: dexters_lab
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 18, 2019, 06:45:56 pm
content: Pic of the lens while i was testing it
Crocodile clip insulation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2019, 03:57:06 am
content: I have an issue with the mini crocodile clip PVC insulation sleeve going hard, it makes it very stiff to operate the jaws. I am not sure why they not as pliable anymore maybe the plastic storage case for storage is causing some reaction to the sleeves.Most branded crocodile clips sell sleeves seperately, I can replace but this is alot of work I will have to cut and resolder the wires.So I am thinking of painting or dipin the body in some sort of thick coating maybe epoxy? Is there anything permanent I can use to coat the body? Most of my projects are low voltage under 24v. Any suggestions for black and red coating?

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2019, 07:08:52 am
content: Get silicone rubber based croc clip covers, PVC will degrade over time.Get them from reputable sources, ie not ebay or amazon.Keep them away from natural rubber and sunlight.
Pace fume extraction sucks - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2019, 11:27:08 am
content: TL;DR Need ideas on setup.Have been working on my new workbench slowly over the last few years. I'm largely done I think, aside from making it look pretty. It's becoming a bit of an "eternal upgrade" as I put the last finishing touches in place.Anyway, today managed to finally sort out some decent fume extraction. Online I found aPace ARM-EVAC 105E Fume Extractorfrom a liquidated business for lets just say, less than the cost of a replacement filter. Pulled the trigger and as best as I can tell it's new and never been used, the filter and prefilter both smell morning fresh and the case has no wear at all, which is a good sign its new.Most important of all it totally matches my soldering gear. Ok that was a joke but I've really needed to move towards better fume extraction, working in closer proximity to leadfree fluxes and these days with a higher percentage of Chinese PCBs outsourced to places that could have little to no OHS, concerns me a bit. Don't want to end up with a respiratory problem in 10 years called "greenlung" or some shit because a guy found out a dirt cheap way to knock up his own no clean leadfree flux formula using drain cleaner.I do have a hose for it (not sure if it's ESD safe) but am missing a cowl/scoop for the desk end of the hose. Which is where I need some advice.Has anyone found one particular type of cowl/hood to work better? I was also thinking since the fume extractor has two ports I could use a second wide cowl to separately suck fumes from where my handpieces are setup.What do you think works best? Flexible arm, plain hose on the desk, with cowl or a full hood over the work area? I have magnification, but I don't think it will interfere too much. I've seen some hoods that work on an angle.I was looking at Corgitronics (user Circuitous on EEVblog) setup and liked how he has a detachable system which is shownon his website. This might work as well.NorthridgeFix's video on youtube shows the Arm Evac 250 model which is essentially the same thing with the two port arrangement on the top. It appears to use the same filter box, his prefilter is looking nasty.
Tip question for Weller WXMP micro pencil.... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wadmancpu
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2019, 12:42:59 am
content: Hello, I have a weller wx1011n with a wxmp micro pencil and I am a bit confused on tips. The wxmp specs say it takes "RT" style tips but many of these tips say they are for the wmrp pencil. Are the wxmp and the wmrp tips interchangeable? On top of that some are listed as "MS" (military spec). What tips are compatible with which iron???
Microscope - battery-powered LED ring light for AmScope? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SolderSucker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2019, 09:57:24 am
content: I have an AmScope SM-3BZ-80S - this one:https://www.amazon.com/AmScope-SM-3BZ-80S-Microscope-Magnification-Ring-Style/dp/B006QN5T5GIt's fitted with the 80 LED ring light as shown on the above page.It works fine but the power cable for the ring light is a constant source of annoyance.Is there a good, battery-powered LED ring-light on the market which would fit the above microscope? I don't use the microscope a huge amount so battery life shouldn't be a big deal.

author: SolderSucker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2019, 12:04:01 pm
content: I guess the answer is a "no" then?

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2019, 12:23:33 pm
content: Why can't you run the cable upwards and over the boom then down the shaft to keep it out of the way.It doesn't have to sit like in the photo

author: SolderSucker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2019, 12:52:04 pm
content: I've tried that but it still gets in the way, I'd just like to get rid of the wire. I'm surprised that there doesn't appear to be a battery-powered light ring, after all LEDs don't use much power.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2019, 06:14:35 pm
content: Hows about you take the cord and cut it off. And make your own battery powered power supply? On mine there are 4 independent quadrants. I expect there will be 5 wires. 4 PWM circuits, voltage regulator, li ion battery charger IC, voltage detector cutout. Not much too it. Honestly I have never turned off quadrants or adjusted the brightness level on mine, so you could simplify this way down.Then after you're done you can sell them to the other 3 people who want a battery powered light ring for a microscope that weighs a metric fuckton and never moves on their bench.
ES121 Electric Screwdriver Insomnia - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jjoonathan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2019, 02:02:37 am
content: I bought an ES121 electric screwdriver about six months ago. I got a lot of good use out of it, but its sleep function recently stopped working. The OLED display never shuts off. It stays lit until the battery runs out a day later. This makes it much less useful. Has anyone else encountered this?Hopefully this is just a configuration issue and I can poke a setting somewhere.Barring that, another hypothesis might be that the accelerometer got noisy. I don't notice any degradation in the twist-to-activate functionality, so I have my doubts.Barring *that*, hopefully this is a rare problem and I can just buy another. It's a lovely little device, but not so lovely that it makes sense to buy one every six months, so I'd want to hear positive anecdotes before doing that.Thanks!

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2019, 03:04:20 am
content: I almost bought this thing like 6 times but I was suspicious
"Hulko" 861D+, Quick 861DW Clone - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 14, 2018, 03:55:35 pm
content: Spotted a few of these on eBay/Aliexpress, they look very similar to the Quick 861 series, certainly the same external design.Couldn't find any reviews or teardowns online but browsing Aliexpress I noticed someone had left a review and done a bit of a teardown, so posting these pictures on here.I wonder how well these perform as they are quite cheap, looking at the "Teardown" I found they even have the mains filter on the back, however the PCB's look different to allthe Genuine Quick units I've seen, just looks like a single triac on the control board. Though the motor looks to be brushless by the number of wires coming off it.These cost about the same as 3x 858d's in the UK but half the price of a Quick 861DW (If these are genuine on eBay)https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/861D-Digital-Soldering-1000W-Rework-Station-Hot-Air-Gun-220V-240V-with-Nozzles/232661767326https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Digital-861D-Rework-Soldering-Station-1000W-Hot-Air-Gun-Hot-Air-Rework-Station-Nozzles-Grounding-Line/703508_32865649014.html

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 14, 2018, 04:10:03 pm
content: Quite disgusting

author: Klikgamee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 20, 2018, 07:20:33 pm
content: I have bought both quick 861DA and hulko 861D+I have tested both quick 861DA as the hulko 861D+If have found that the ‘’ clone’ hulko 861D+ performanceVery good when u calibrate iTI have done many repair jobs using the hulko 861D+As for the iPhone a10 CPU removing and reballing putingBack and the iPhone stil workig after the repairFor this station i use bent nozzles from the quick 861dwThey fit also on the hulko 861D+ dont go lower then 6 mm nozzleVery good no difference to quick 861

author: oolloo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2018, 10:48:34 pm
content: Quote from: Klikgamee on November 20, 2018, 07:20:33 pmwhat about the fact that hulko has 8A fuse and Quick has higher amp fuse?can you post inside and outside pictures of the Quick please?

author: guazan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2019, 05:18:35 am
content: an 8A fuse is equivalent to 1840W of resistance. I have the MLINK H6 station my budget is not very high we will notice a difference if I buy thehulko 861D + thanks.
Hakko 937 key card dimensions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: GeekPriest
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2015, 06:46:09 pm
content: The thread athttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-936-key-card/shows the layout and dimensions of a Hakko 937 key card required to change temperatures on the unit.My questions: is 9.8 inches the correct width? (That looks more like length, but even so, 9.8" is as long as the 937 is deep.)Is the .375 inches from corner to edge of opening from the BOTTOM corner, or the top? It looks like the bottom, but the label is near the top.If anyone has an actual key to photograph alongside a ruler on both edges, or to trace on graph paper with a known scale, it would be helpful.Thanks in advance.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 04, 2015, 10:39:46 pm
content: I think that the width is wrong. I would bet it is .98". 9.8" is probably wider than the unit itself.

author: GeekPriest
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2015, 02:10:49 pm
content: Thanks for all the help. I made one from a hotel key card (credit card) I had on the desk. I did the cutting with a utility knife and a straightedge on a small bar-size cutting board. It's not super professional looking, but my 937 now changes temperature. As an added bonus, the reverse side refers to Papa John's pizza. So if you need a pizza reminder, just do some soldering.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 08, 2015, 10:53:06 pm
content: Good on ya! Not a fan of Papa John's. There is a little pizza place about a mile from the house that makes a good New York style pizza complete with the grease dripping down the armMuch better than the chains. I don't need a key card reminder to think of them

author: hakkofan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 30, 2019, 05:20:17 am
content: Thank you for all of your information. I could success to change the temperature. But I'd like to tell you the detection is done by the infrared light sensor so GeekPriest, you were lucky the part of your card was black. I masked with black tape, then I could success.Anyway, thank you for your valuable information.
GU10 LED Light Teardone & Diagnoses - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheEPROM9
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2019, 08:31:16 pm
content: So one of the LED lights in my bathroom failed this week (The room with a bath in). Lets take it apart & diagnose what failed in the buck regulator, it is always in the buck regulator. Last time it was a resistor that died in the last one I took apart, lets see if it is the same.
Cheap desoldering gun - add ground - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MrWifiHifi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2019, 08:43:01 pm
content: HiI recently bought cheap 30W 220V 50Hz desoldering gun from ebay and from what i read it is very dangerous because tip can get liveI read somewhere, there is solution to add ground to itDoes anyone know about it and how to do it?P.s. this is what I boughthttps://www.ebay.com/itm/30W-220V-Electric-Vacuum-Solder-Sucker-Welding-Desoldering-Tin-Pump-Iron-Gun/153569778063?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2019, 09:26:48 pm
content: I nearly ordered one of those but went with the following from a supplier in CA to get it faster. Hopefully it will work well. Cost $80.00https://www.ebay.com/itm/S-993A-110V-100W-Electric-Vacuum-Desoldering-Pump-Solder-Sucker-Gun-In-US/182542835989?epid=13032785153&hash=item2a8066a115:g:oREAAOSwzqtcIE-7

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2019, 04:12:19 am
content: Got this gun and it really works well!

author: DTJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2019, 05:27:49 am
content: I've got a Hakko pistol type unit. It took me a while to learn but I found the tips lasted much longer if I melted some solder into the end before turning it off.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2019, 09:24:38 am
content: QuoteProbably not a good idea!If the metal parts short to mains live and you connect the metal parts to earth, you will be short circuiting mains live. UK mains plugs have a fuse to protect you and your mains electric.From what I have seen, most other countries do not fuse the plug, so it would need the mains circuit breaker or fuse to protect you and the mains electric - NOT a good idea!If the metal parts are shorted to mains live - I would stop using it !
How does a Mira shower heater keep the water out? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2019, 04:01:00 pm
content: We have a Mira (popular brand in the UK) electric shower heater inside the shower cubicle in one of our bathrooms. I just found the cover was loose, because a plastic fixing has broken. When I lifted off the cover there is no waterproof gasket between the two halves of the case. It doesn't look like there is anything missing - I can't see anywhere that a gasket might fit. How is this thing supposed to keep the water out when its under the shower head? I can't see how merely deflecting water away from the electrics through the design of the cover can give adequate protection, when the shower is frequently sprayed directly at these heaters. Its a pretty old unit, fitted long before we bought the house, and I have no idea what the model name might be.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2019, 07:05:35 pm
content: It doesn't keep the water out; but what does get in, also quickly drains back out.

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2019, 07:39:21 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on September 08, 2019, 07:05:35 pmI presume that's the goal. However, along the top edge it looks a bit iffy about achieving that goal. The electric showers I've opened before had a silicone gasket around the join in the case, and around the power and water inlets.

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 08, 2019, 08:11:50 pm
content: Quote from: coppice on September 08, 2019, 07:39:21 pmI've never seen that. Normally it's just designed to drain away from anything dangerous. Much better than sealing because if water gets in, it's difficult to get back out with seals

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2019, 08:22:55 pm
content: Quote from: SteveyG on September 08, 2019, 08:11:50 pmThe last time I opened one of these things would probably have been in the 1970s. I think they had provision at the bottom for any water that got past the seals to drain away, but they definitely had a gasket to stop water getting in on the other three sides.

author: BurningTantalum
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2019, 06:23:02 am
content: My dad used to sell these units, going way back to the Gainsborough 6kW type in the 60s-70s, so I have fitted a few over the years. I don't recall any model that had an actual seal but rather a simple labyrinth. I suppose the principle was that no energetic water could pass directly into the case but would be slowed and adhere to the plastic and drain out. I always thought that it looked dodgy, but it obviously works!BT

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 12, 2019, 09:08:59 am
content: Quote from: coppice on September 08, 2019, 08:22:55 pmIt's just a labyrinth seal, no gasket to speak of these days. If the design is unsealed, the water is less likely to wick into the unit
Good thermal adhesive - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: den
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 01:23:48 pm
content: Hi all,anyone knows a good thermal adhesive?There are good thermal pastes available, with thermal conductivity of 10 Wm/K and even more (for example Arctic or ThermalGrizzly). However, thermal adhesives I have found all have a very low conductivity (not much more than 1 Wm/K, but mostly less than that, for example "AG Thermoglue").Den

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 06:13:44 pm
content: https://uk.farnell.com/mg-chemicals/9400-3ml/thermally-conductive-adhesive/dp/2889798

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 08:23:20 pm
content: annoying thermal epoxies with high viscosity exist, at around 4Wm/K, but they are usually quote ordersAlso,there are diamond laced adhesives which have better Wm/k, but they are EXPENSIVEwhat 2n3055 linked is pretty much a 'apex' conductivity number you get with thermal glue @ non ludicrous cost (keep in mind his is a 1 part epoxy)

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 09:18:13 pm
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on September 15, 2019, 08:23:20 pmExactly. But make note it IS ELECTRICALLY conductive too. That is the price to get good thermal capacity. It is loaded with silver, and quite richly.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 10:27:44 pm
content: no you can get 4+ non electrical conductive some where, just an annoying quote robbery job

author: den
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2019, 04:10:12 am
content: Thanks everyone!
(Start of) teardown of mid-90's AMX touchscreen (AXP-T/S, type 0694) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Cthulhoid
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2019, 01:58:13 am
content: I popped into RePC last weekend and acquired an AMX touchscreen controller, model AXP-T/S. I just moved so don't have all my stuff, but I decided to do a preliminary investigation because why not.(Click to embiggen)The main PCB is a chonky affair composed almost entirely of through-hole components; reversing it would be fairly straightforward. (Click to embiggen)Some parts I thought were interesting (numbers from photo):MC34163P boost/buck switching regulator. Backlight power, I'm guessing.SRAM, battery-backed.MC68340 CPU, apparently 68020-like.Seven-position connector, probably for touchscreen. The cable appears to have two differential pairs and one standalone conductor.8x2-position 2.54mm-pitch bog-standard keyed connector, output from graphics controller.Yamaha V6366C CGA display controller; will handle a 640x400 display.EPROMS. Gonna Ghidra the heck out of these.When I do unpack my stuff, I'll give it power (12V 1.5A, nicely printed on the back) and see what happens, then dump the ROMs and Ghidra some stuff. I'd like to get the screen PCB visible, but that requires disassembling the tilt mechanism (ugh) to get at the necessary screws. The end goal is to maybe use it to display bus times, weather, etc. I'd be planning on a Pi Zero - although I could just replace the socketed ROMs with my own code and add an ESP-32 for network connectivity.
Does anyone know what this is? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Chriiiiiiis
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 02:24:45 pm
content: So i Found this (addon Card?) in my Parts bin but i wasnt able to Find anything about it on the internet.Mayby someone here knows what it is

author: Twoflower
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 04:19:29 pm
content: I don't know either, but a staring point might be this:IBM's Solid Logic Technology (SLT). That seems to be the package used on that card.A more sharp picture with readable lables of the TTL devices might help as this would aid to figure out the date of production.Probably that belongs in an ancient IBM computer/mainframe.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 01:53:39 am
content: Almost certainly from an IBM mainframe or related peripheral. These books may be useful:http://bitsavers.trailing-edge.com/pdf/ibm/logic/SY22-2798-2_LogicBlocks_AutomatedLogicDiagrams_SLT,SLD,ASLT,MST_TO_Oct71.pdfhttp://bitsavers.trailing-edge.com/pdf/ibm/logic/SLT_Circuit_Design_Hbk.pdfhttp://bitsavers.trailing-edge.com/pdf/ibm/logic/2-6201-H1_SLT_SLD_Module_Data_Dec1969.pdf
Schematic Shure P9T PSM900 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: eletronics1966
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 09, 2019, 09:09:02 pm
content: Hi to all ,I need to identify in this transmitter where the signals to trigger the LED display, TX ON and VU Meter come from, although it is working I do not have any of these LEDs access my analyzes led me to the front panel where there is the LV595 Counter Shift Register, but I don't know where his wrists are coming from.Thanks a lot
Can somebody explain pls what this means? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Chriss
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2019, 08:18:12 pm
content: Hi!I found this crap dso on Aliexpress.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33002391987.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.350c791dLS29vH&algo_pvid=e7ec620a-bf27-4c11-812e-e9ebff363786&algo_expid=e7ec620a-bf27-4c11-812e-e9ebff363786-17&btsid=44850d65-4312-45c3-9d91-05e192f466e1&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2,searchweb201603_52It attracted my attention cos there is writing in the description this:"... Used for secondary development on the basis of this kit, for example, it can be changed to Millivoltmeter, data loggers...."It is not clear to me what this means?Should I understand this like the DSO hardware is a development platform and I could upload various firmwareslike a firmware to transform the dso to a data logger?Is that what they mean with this?Thanks.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2019, 09:17:30 pm
content: https://hackaday.com/2017/11/09/review-jye-tech-dso150-oscilloscope-kit/https://jyetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1206https://github.com/michar71/Open-DSO-150/

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2019, 09:27:08 pm
content: That just means you can reprogram the STM32F103 MCU with your own firmware and use this as a development board.
TL866A Eprom programmer not recognising known good Eprom - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dicky96
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 01:11:04 pm
content: Hi guysI'm trying to flash this BIOS eprom, type W49F002U12BNThe Eprom must be good as the motherboard does boot.However when I put the chip in my TL866A programmer and select chip type W49F002U and try to read the chip it says Check ID Error 0x 00 00The programmer works fine on other chipsWhat is causing the problem?best regardsRich

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2019, 04:26:33 pm
content: De-select check ID and try to read again. Sometimes different manufacturers use different device IDs for otherwise compatible devices.

author: dicky96
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 11:11:34 am
content: Yes that worked.Thanks
duinotech relay board voltage ratings - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Kartman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 06:40:58 am
content: Just looked at a duinotech 4 channel relay board from our beloved supplier Jaycar. The specs say 10A @ 250VAC - unfortunately with the relays they've used and the pcb layout it is most likely illegal for use in Australia. Not to say dangerous. Of course it's just the same stuff you'd get from the likes of AliExpress - Jaycar add their markup and their supposed to ensure it is safe for use in Aus.Comments?

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 06:57:05 am
content: You might have to be more specific, what exactly is wrong with the relays, what exactly do you feel is unsafe, what as/nzs standards specifically do you think are violated.
Wera Screwdrivers - Made in Czech Republic? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MatteoX
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 03:12:37 am
content: I have some Wera screwdrivers for more than 10 years and they are still in very good condition.Recently I was looking for a torx screwdriver set. I already have L-shaped torx wrenches but I now would like to have screwdriver-type ones.I found some Wera sets that I liked, but then I noticed "Made in Czech Republic".Does anyone have experience/comments on Wera's Czech tools?

author: Black Phoenix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 03:47:11 am
content: QuoteUsed them before some years ago, they are good screwdrivers, nothing to really say against it. The tips endure a lot of use, without loose of quality or breakage/damage.

author: ivaylo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 06:20:19 am
content: Never had any problem with anything Czech. Not known in the states, but they manufacture decent cars/trucks, locomotives, small airplanes, jet engines, etc. Used to have good electronics industry, R&S has a factory there now too.

author: MatteoX
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 02:59:41 pm
content: Quote from: ivaylo on August 28, 2019, 06:20:19 amYes, I know that they had well developed industry before the Second World War. They even had several car and truck companies then (Jawa, Skoda, Tatra and probably some other I don't know). I was asking because I am not familiar with any of their tools. I guess the quality will be controlled by Wera anyway.

author: richnormand
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 03:29:44 pm
content: I have a set of Wera screwdrivers that are "Made in Czech Republic".Top notch quality and as good as my older set. No difference.

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 04:02:28 pm
content: Everyone now has a manufacturing (mind you, not much R&D) plant in the Czech Republic, as CZ is typical with its quite low labor cost and quite low salaries with one of the biggest overall taxing.So R&S manufacturing plant here is no surprise.And for the jobs where labor price is so low that CZech people do not want to work anymore, there are loads of Ukrainian, Bulgarian and Romanian people always ready to get those jobs.
'Square' Not-Ferrite Beads - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2019, 12:43:04 am
content: By Toshiba:https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/408/AB-SS_Datasheet-1393573.pdfMay well have some in my collection already, just never noticed because who measures B-H curves of ferrite beads, right?Not terrifically interesting, but a neat option as beads go.Tim
Quick 861DW heating element insulation, what is it? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: shadewind
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2019, 06:54:09 pm
content: I'm thinking of getting a Quick 861DW hot air station but have some concerns about the heating element. Due to some home-related asbestos experience, I have a bit of an irrational fear of breathable mineral fibers. Watching a Youtube video of someone removing the heating element of the 861DW, I saw that there is some sort of heat insulation visible at the base of the heating element. It looks like some sort of flexible sheet material surrounding the actual heating element insulating it from the metal tube or something similar.Does anyone who owns one of these units know what material it is? It can't be asbestos, can it? Is it friable?I do know that this is a weird question but I would appreciate if someone could help me.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2019, 06:56:59 pm
content: Somebody asked almost that exact question the other day...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/858d-hot-air-station-and-asbestos-concern/

author: shadewind
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2019, 08:52:02 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on August 20, 2019, 06:56:59 pmThat is somewhat helpful, although this is a different unit.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2019, 11:37:29 am
content: Almost certainly mica.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2019, 05:25:14 pm
content: Quote from: shadewind on August 20, 2019, 06:54:09 pmThe flexible sheet might also be some form of woven glass fibre with a high temperature binder (teflon?). I don't know the temperature spec but it's often sold for oven liners. It probably wouldn't withstand actual element wire contact but could probably used for outer sleeve insulation. Asbestos would be almost impossible to turn into a thin mechanically durable sheet.

author: shadewind
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2019, 08:56:35 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on August 21, 2019, 05:25:14 pmThat's a fair point, as far as I understand, asbestos turns to dust unless you add a binder or weave it into cloth.Anyway, the material in there hardly seems friable at all it is it? Looking at pictures, it looks more plasticky and thin rather than fibrous and felt like so mica paper in layers seems like a reasonable assumption.