hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
DIY ADC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: hulipa
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 28, 2019, 07:40:49 am
content: Hi,This is my approach to making an really simple ADC.It uses the Capacitor discharge formulae. Since we know the RC time constant is 1(by multiplying R and C). We can measure the time it need for the voltage between the cap's terminal to reach 0.001v by using a OpAmp as a comparator.Those mosfets(yes i know they are overkill) were used as a switch to discharge the capacitor through the resistor.That's basically how the circuit works. Let me know if you want the code of the arduino.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2019, 08:06:29 am
content: The circuit is really odd and may not even work well - that is better than the 10 bit µC internal ADC.Probably the easiest way to get more resolution than the µC internal ADC is a simple sigma delta converter. It needs a 1 OP integrator. The µC internal ADC reads the integrator and uses PWM from the µC with a resistor for feedback. If a reference different from the µC supply is needed, add a CMOS gate or CMOS switch (e.g. HC4053).I had build this long time ago - if was kind of fun to get some 18 bit resolution on the bread-board. Still an external ADC like MCP3421 is likely easier - though not on the bread-board.

author: hulipa
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 28, 2019, 08:27:17 am
content: Yeah i should probably make a Delta Sigma ADC instead of this weird circuit. I mean it works, and have a resolution of over 24bit, but it is not that accurate.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2019, 08:07:09 pm
content: Joystick and paddle inputs on old computers typically used a ADC that worked similarly by measuring the discharge time of a capacitor. I've seen more complex ADCs that used a DAC driven by an up/down counter with the count direction controlled by a comparator that compares the input voltage being measured to the voltage coming out of the DAC. Not much point in building one like that these days but I always thought it was a clever circuit.
DIY AOI RGB Inspection Light - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: MicroBiggerThanMM
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2021, 01:11:13 am
content: Hello,I just saw EEVBlog 1372 and need to shamelessly plug this project I've recently done.Say you need to inspect your PCB for solder fillet quality because you wanna pat yourself on the back.You could buy a $1000 professional AOI light which illuminates different angles with different colors, or you could say "YOLO" and build one for less than $10." alt="" class="bbc_img" />https://hackaday.io/project/177186-diy-aoi-rgb-lightIt's simply a 3D printed dome with 5MM LED's soldered together. Not rocket science, but those pictures are phenomenal!I will consider selling these as a kit for $20 and assembled for $50 if people are interested (it takes a few hours of labor to insert and solder each one). Probably on Tindie or eBay.I don't believe in markups and charging people "what they're willing to pay" because it doesn't feel nice. But hey, I don't have a mortgage to pay.
DIY Arcade Cabinet - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gevv
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2021, 08:31:39 pm
content: Hello,I used an old asus laptop, tda7377 2.1 sound system for Color Music stickerThere is a CNC drawing for the left right panel.my arcade cabinet video (short)construction stages (detailed long)
DIY Arduino RGB Ambilight Clone using WS2812b LED Strips - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dusnoki
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 04, 2017, 08:38:20 am
content: I finally finished my first Arduino project (albeit I used already written code and programs, but still) and I'm very pleased with the results.It's an Arduino Ambilight Clone using the awesome WS2812b Individually addressable RBG LED Strips. It's not a standalone ambilight system yet as it relies on a program on the PC to tell the arduino which light should light up on which color and intensity based on the monitor but I plan to make a standalone one in the future when I purchase a bigger TV that would use a Raspberry Pi and some other cool stuffHere are some pictures and the video I made of the build and setup of the system is anyone is interested.
DIY audio preamp with arduino, xbee and alpha-LED display - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2015, 06:37:10 pm
content: I'm redoing a project I started in 2008 or so, timeframe. back then, I was very into using lcd displays and so everything I did was with the familiar 2x16 hitachi.now, I'm revisiting some of those projects and converting them to LEDadafruit has some nice 4char displays in all the classic colors (red, yellow, green, blue, red. yes, I said red twice. I like red.)here's my 2channel audio preamp, being redone with a new rotary encoder (old style was motorize pot), new front buttons and the led 'backpack' on a perfboard:the preamp is the AMB alpha 10 (that I co-designed); consisting of an 8bit relay r2r style attenuator, 2 discrete analog output buffers, fully discrete low noise dual rail analog PSU and 7805 digital 5v psu. that has been around since the 2009 timeframe (amb.org has pcb's for sale for this project; all parts are buyable at mouser/digikey) - but the new front end is new; and I'm using xbee's for remote control instead of direct-IR.that's the really new part. previously we had a learning IR receiver and it would use your existing remote to control i/o and volume. with my new scheme, I'm using xbee radios tuned to the same channel (poor man's multicast, lol) and having various components control and be controlled over that channel using short ascii checksummed messages. this has the ability to now be web-controllable by putting xbee/usb boxes on, for example, a rasp pi. hit a web page on the pi, it sends out the right control message over xbee and the audio box gets controlled.I'm using gps-style error detection, just really simple stuff. packet starts with '$', has a payload and ends with '*XX (XX is the 2 hex chars that are the xor-rotating checksum, same as what gps serial devices use for nmea). its simple code and it keeps the xbee channel 'honest'for actual IR use, I have a new box (not shown) that listens for IR and translates to xbee messages. that acts like a 'shim' to bridge the gap between using the old style IR handhelds and any new style (phone, tablet, purpose-built hardware, etc). I have that working today and I can use my old sony cd remote control and have it send out the right xbee messages to control this preamp.and being message based, the preamp display can be used to announce important things, such as newmail or a kitchen timer going off. its my IoT attempt for audio and component control (sans cloud; clouds suck!).

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2015, 12:33:50 am
content: and the DIY remote that will go along with it:arduino chip is under that oled display. xbee is not shown but is part of this.next: some battery and box for it.update: hack, for now (lol):at least its now self-contained.
DIY Audio Spectrum Analysys - MonkeyListen! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ehughes
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2014, 01:17:17 pm
content: MonkeyListen – A DIY audio spectrum analyzer! (Designed with Altium)This project uses the Kinetis K20D50 (on the FRDM-K20), a FRDM-OLED shield (128 x 64 pixel OLED) and an electret microphone to create a cool spectrum analyzer.The firmware has 3 modes: Time Domain, FFT, and spectrogram (for a really cool real time time-frequency plot). There is also the ability to compare and contrast a rectangular vs a hanning window. Good way to start playing with FFTs.Lots of instructional videos (4 hours!) included and all software/open is open for hacking.Quick demo videosMain project page:https://community.freescale.com/docs/DOC-100149No actual monkeys were harmed in the production of the project.

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2014, 08:31:58 pm
content: So the primary function is sound processing rather than vis?

author: ehughes
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2014, 08:56:29 pm
content: A mix of both. It is an education project to get newcomers some experience in FFTs in an embedded system (which is usually a difficult topic, even when you have a nice library). The visualization aspect adds some interesting I/O to "see" your voice to get a feeling of how things work.From there someone could hack some other function in that does something cool with the frequency domain data.I am starting a new project is an LPC4370 that will effectively do the same but do some interesting processing on ultra-sonic data. That will get posted at some point as well.

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2014, 11:40:45 pm
content: What could be interesting is some sort of open high-performance DSP platform, maybe hardware upgradable to a certain degree (optional multi-chip config?), and with a well defined software API for extra modules and functionality.

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2014, 11:41:36 pm
content: Quote from: lpc32 on May 20, 2014, 11:40:45 pm
DIY Bench Power Supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ArchieAltz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2025, 12:33:08 pm
content: This is my DIY Bench Power Supply I made using the RD 6006 power supply module by joy it .This is my first proper project as a new electronics student (currently first year of electrotechnical school :-) )I've made a 40V 5A variable part (sadly couldn't find a 60V 6A boost converter on time so had to improvise), followed by 3 fixed outputs , those being : 5V , 3.3V and 12V along with 6A fuses (probably will need stronger ones though).This is how I connected the posts inside by using wire terminals.As for the case dimensions they're220 for the length , 310 for the width and 130 height without counting the feet (P.S the dimensions are in mm). The case was made by me and my grandfather from a junction box from which we made inserts for the RD6006 , banana posts and the power supply.If you have any questions feel free to ask here

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2025, 12:48:03 pm
content: Nicely done!As lab power supplies have a high probability of shorts and changing fuses is annoying, I would propose to either mount resettable fuses (breakers) or electronic fuses.

author: ArchieAltz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2025, 12:49:34 pm
content: Quote from: inse on January 06, 2025, 12:48:03 pmThanks for the concern , I've added panel mounted fuses with 5x20mm fuses which I have access to in the hundreds . I belive it will be fine for now :-)

author: tunk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2025, 02:20:36 pm
content: If the step-up converter is the board on the left,I guess the 5A refers to input current, i.e. max 60W(and if it's one of the cheap ones, then it's goodadvice to derate it).

author: ArchieAltz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2025, 02:23:10 pm
content: Quote from: tunk on January 06, 2025, 02:20:36 pmIt is 5A max output IDK what is the max input current tbh . The converter is a 5-40V 5A boost converter from JoyIT
diy bench power supply component verification (the second edditon) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mick make
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 03, 2020, 04:28:53 am
content: this is a follow up post to my previous post (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/diy-bench-power-supply-component-verification) i have taken the recommendation from Pawelr98 to use the L200 regulator and made a new schematic and deigned a pcb. i made the switch to kicad form easy eda as i was finding i was running in to limitations so i will attach my kicad project folder in a .7z archive. i tried to use the net system but i don't really understand it also i cant move any of the to220 or bridge rectifiers as they will be attached to a heat sync but im willing to move or change anything else on your recommendation. thanks for the help.

author: mick make
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 03, 2020, 04:38:54 am
content: just realized the link in the first post is broken so here is one that works:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/diy-bench-power-supply-component-verification/msg3349324/#msg3349324
DIY Bench Power Supply controlled by an Arduino - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jvank
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 18, 2018, 04:23:29 pm
content: Hello everyone,This is my first post here, so please bear with me.I want to make a bench power supply from scratch. What I mean by that is that I wanted to design the pcb myself. My original idea was to use the LTC3780, and a voltage/current display. But I ran into an issue: I wanted to limit the current, which you can do with an LTC3780, but how can I see what the set current is?So I scrapped that idea and I thought of using a microcontroller, something like an atmega, and an lcd or oled display. I just have no idea where to start. Does anyone have any tips or things I should look out for?Thanks in advance,jvank

author: anishkgt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2018, 04:27:34 pm
content: There are numerous about it. Check out Dave’s video about it. He has explained it and made one.Www.Georgehobby.wordpress.comEquipments: DSO104z, Hakko FX888D, Brymen BM869sSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

author: jvank
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 18, 2018, 06:20:38 pm
content: Oh yeah I found it lol. Thanks so much!

author: jvank
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 18, 2018, 06:46:44 pm
content: Alright so I took a look and I think this is not quite what i want to re-create. The reason is that I want a bigger range of voltage and current.Would it be possible to just use a different regulator chip, but keep the PWM control? In that case I could use a LTC3780.Kind Regards,jvank

author: anishkgt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2018, 06:52:23 pm
content: I would suggest you stray from what is your mind and slowly built it up. You could start off with the component mentioned by Dave and order yours as well.As you built you would get an idea of what could replaced and then you can built your own version.Www.Georgehobby.wordpress.comEquipments: DSO104z, Hakko FX888D, Brymen BM869sSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
DIY bench power supply PSL-2401/2 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Liv
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 06:24:44 pm
content: Features:• output voltage: 0…24 V• output current: 0…1 A (PSL-2401), 0…2 A (PSL-2402)• voltage resolution: 10 mV• current resolution: 1 mA• operation modes: CV, CC• down programmer circuit• pure linear design• multilevel output stage supply• synchronous rectifiers (PSL-2402 only)• digital calibration• interface: USB (PSL-2402 only)• case type: Z-4A (Kradex, poland)4-ampere version here:PSL-3604

author: Liv
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 06:30:37 pm
content: Some photos.Two last photos - main board with diode rectifier (PSL-2401) and synchronous rectifier using IRF7313 (PSL-2402).

author: MoighonFweeman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 02:12:53 am
content: Cost?

author: Liv
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 07:18:26 am
content: This is an open source DIY project. The cost of parts can be calculated according to the schemes.

author: prasimix
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 16, 2015, 10:45:21 am
content: Please note that in document PSL-2401_sch.pdf page 3 and 4 are identical.

author: Liv
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2015, 02:29:45 pm
content: Thank you, I made a mistake in the document got an extra page.

author: prasimix
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 16, 2015, 04:55:52 pm
content: Quote from: Liv on March 16, 2015, 02:29:45 pmOr it's missing what you have in PSL-2402_sch.pdf, a section with gate drivers and output mosfets (pg. 4)?

author: Liv
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2015, 05:23:12 pm
content: Thank you, I fixed problem. Updated files:

author: bitwelder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2015, 02:34:15 pm
content: Beautiful project, thanks for sharing!A few question, if you don't mind:- is the PSL-3604 simply a 'higher power' version of these PSL-2401/2402, i.e. are the two projects using about same basic design? Or is it one project the 'evolution' of the other one?- regarding the construction, is it just about build the boards, flash the firmware and it's ready to go, or is there a calibration procedure to follow?

author: Liv
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2015, 03:17:35 pm
content: PSL-2401/2 is a somewhat simplified version of the PSL-3604. They have less buttons, less digits display. PSL-3604 has better usability, but it has greater size and weight.When you turn on the power supply for the first time, the calibration coefficients are loaded by default. The actual output voltage and current will be slightly different from the settings on the deviation of precision resistors and reference voltage. The menu contains easy step by step calibration procedure that requires a reference external voltmeter and ammeter.
DIY C210 Soldering Station with Magnetic Cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: toribird
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 09, 2024, 12:14:45 pm
content: Hello. I'm thinking of making a DIY soldering station.I saw this photo the other day when I was looking for a control board on a Chinese shopping site (Taobao). This photo was uploaded by a buyer as a review.I thought it was a very unique idea, but are there any dangers to it? C210 is normally supplied with 12V6A. If this connection was risk-free, I would like to try it.Recently, it seems that magnet cables that support 100W are being sold, but what do you think about this connection?Please let us know your opinions.Taobao Linkhttps://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=731241994465&skuId=5366256543824&spm=a1z0d.6639537/tb3.1997196601.3.704c7484DQph5E

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2024, 12:22:45 pm
content: I can’t imagine why I would want a magnetic connector on a soldering iron cable. On the contrary, I imagine it getting bumped off by mistake all the time as I put things on the bench to work on them.

author: toribird
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 10, 2024, 11:34:08 am
content: I certainly understand your point. However, I would like to know more about this connection method as an idea.In my country, magnetic cables like this that support 100W are sold. Do you think it is realistic to connect C210 (12V6A), T12 (24V3A), and C245 (24V8A) using this cable?At least there are users who are doing this with C210, so I think there is some way to do it.I'm not talking about USB Type-C Cable. I would like to know if there will be any problems with power supply if this magnet cable is treated as an "electric wire".I registered as a member to discuss topics like this. I would appreciate it if you could lend me your knowledge.
DIY Camper Electronics - Inverter Issues - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: williamd
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 22, 2023, 12:53:43 pm
content: Hi all,I hope I am posting this in the correct place and someone is able to helpAlso sorry for the long explanation!TLDR; 12v -> 230v inverter keeps breaking when only using 1/3 of rated max load. Supplier not helpful.I have been working on a DIY camper for the past 6 months and the electronics side of things really confused me so I decided to play it safe and pay a company for assistance.The company provided components, wiring diagrams and instructions for a setup suitable for my requirements - with the main idea here that I don't need to worry if I am using the correct guage wires, sized fuses etc.The system compromises of both 12v and 230v with use of an inverter (Victron Multiplus 1200).For the most part it has worked as expected however I have began having issues with my multiplus inverter.I only use the inverter to power my Starlink + Laptop for work (around 300W total) and the inverter is rated at 1000W load.Twice now the inverter has simply stopped working suddenly. When it has done this I have tried to turn it off for a while before turning it back on - only to be greeted by a flashing amber "Charger" light and then nothing.The first unit went back to be replaced and I have now sent off the second unit back to supplier. Obviously I don't want this to keep happening every few weeks and something must be wrong with the setup, however the "Expert" company I have been using are providing virtually no answers for this besides stating I must be overdrawing from the inverter. As I said the most I use at once is 300W and it's rated at 1000W so...I have attached the wiring diagram they sent me originally which I have used to setup my system.I'm hopeful someone here can maybe shed some light into things I could test or obvious things that might be the cause of this reccuring issue!Thanks in advance

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2023, 05:12:48 pm
content: Did you check whether the battery voltage is inside the allowed range?Is your equipment equipped with PFC power supplies, check what power factor is allowed for the inverter.Probably the inverter might have a problem with non-ohmic loads.You can verify the capability of the inverter by running an electric heater or a big incandescent lamp or an cooking plate or something like that- non electronic.
DIY Car Heads Up Display Using LED Strip - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: frank26080115
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2017, 03:57:30 pm
content: Click this picture to view the YouTube video:I used a Teensy 3.2, taking full advantage of the CAN peripheral and the FlexCAN library, as well as FastLED and several others.More detailed in my own blog, including more of my notes on UX, and all of my open source files (code, CAD, etc)http://eleccelerator.com/car-heads-up-display-using-led-strip/

author: dmc0162
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 05, 2017, 09:21:42 pm
content: This is really cool! I did something similar last year with an arduino MEGA and a strip of LEDs, but my version was just a bar graph tachometer. My car was OBD1 unfortunately, so I had to tap directly into the vehicle cam angle sensor for the signal.

author: frank26080115
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2017, 12:18:38 am
content: Quote from: dmc0162 on July 05, 2017, 09:21:42 pmIf you want to keep going with that project, perhaps add hall effect sensors to your wheels or a drive shaft?
DIY cheap adjustable dc adapter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: aalbri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2013, 12:21:00 am
content: So I wanted a little adjustable DC source for simple circuits on a breadboard and didn't want to spend too much for it.There is this universal adapter I got in a kit awhile ago but never had any desire to use it since the tips are $8 each and you need a different tip for every kind of plug your devices have. But it has an adjustable DC output for 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9, and 12 V which is exactly what I wanted. I believe that just this adapter is around $20:So I cut the tip off and stripped the wires. I tinned the wires and soldered my own red and black wires on (the wire with the white lines running down the side is positive). I protected the connections with the heatshrink here:I plugged it in and checked all the voltage settings with my meter and it works like a champ!Just wanted to throw this idea out there that with $20 and about 10 minutes you can have a basic DC supply.If anyone is curious about the tip I cut off, here it is:I hate to be this guy, but I am NOT responsible for anything that goes wrong. The materials and method that I've shown here worked for my needs and if you choose to recreate this project, just be safe about it

author: Jon Chandler
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2013, 12:30:21 am
content: Have you checked the voltages? This one looks like a switcher and is probably regulated. Older "universal" power supplies were not regulated and the voltage depends on load.

author: aalbri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2013, 12:35:22 am
content: Yes, I checked with a few simple circuits and I wouldn't use this for anything more than testing little circuits. I was just tired of hooking up different battery combos and having to replace them.

author: PA4TIM
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2013, 07:59:55 pm
content: Thats why they invented lab PSUs. adjustable and current limmiting. You can buy a used one for 10-20 Dollar if you do some searching. Build one with a few transistors and an opamp or buy a new one for a few Dollar more as what you bought now. For instance :http://www.eleshop.nl/030v-3a-labvoeding-p-500.htmlbut that will be possible in other coutries too.I mounted a male chassis connector in my breadboard for the psu. The connector goes through a piece of black/red wire to two bananas. I plug those in a labsupply. Safer as dangeling wires when you need to power the board down.I also mounted a bnc chassis connector with thin coax that I can stick in the breadboard. So a long coax line does not pull the wires out the board.
DIY Cheap  No clean flux - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: beenai2018
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2024, 04:59:11 am
content: Here is possibly a simple idea for No Clean flux.Most technical papers seem to indicate testing with Glutamine ,Serine, Lysine, Alanine as fluxing agents for No Clean flux types. Since these are Amino acids and are common supplements I thought I could make something quickly.Glutamine seems to be the most potent in these.Alas ,I didnt have any glutamine but I did have Lysine .I did an approximate 5-10 % W/V . Ie 10g in 100ml , in my case 1gm to about 10-15 ml distilled water. Powdered the pills and dissolved them .I filtered out the undissolved residue .I beleive they are Magnesium Stearate and Calcium Phospates.Threw the rest of the solution in a dollar storebonpen-fluxpenclone.Results are looking good!!I was able to solder a few sample bits of metal with no issues. This is in addition to copper pcbs/components etc .Aluminum did not work , but that was me shooting for the moon with a 5 dollar soldering iron.I did an A/B test with some oxidized wire and tests passed. There is definitely some fluxing activity.It evaporates pretty quickly and does not provide a covering layer (tbh , I didn't need that feature).Soldering tip gets very clean and stays clean.As always ,take precautions against chemicals, don't breathe the fumes.Also not sure if this will erode the soldering tip coating faster than rosin ,so another unknown to think about .HTH someone.https://patents.google.com/patent/US3675307A/
DIY CM Chokes for Low Z VNA Measurements - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mawyatt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2024, 11:49:22 pm
content: Curious about DIY CM Chokes for use with for very low Z (<0.1 ohm) ShuntSeries-Thur VNA Measurements in the moderate frequency range from ~100KHz to ~10 MHz. Plenty of discussions here about the Measurements but little detail and images of the CM chokes utilized.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/rf-microwave/impedance-measurement-with-vna-using-series-shuntseries-through-methods/150/Requesting details on these DIY CM Chokes to be able to construct such.Thanks in advance.Best,
DIY Component Tester - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Anteoculatiah
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 10, 2025, 02:44:25 pm
content: Hi dear community,Recently, I built a component tester project following a YouTube video tutorial () . I used the exact same code and schematic provided in the video description.After completing all the steps, I tested the device. It successfully measures resistors and capacitors, just like in the video. However, it gives incorrect readings for inductors and transistors.I’ve attached comparison photos showing the measurement results I get versus the ones shown in the video.I’ve tried multiple troubleshooting steps but haven’t been able to fix the issue. I’m posting here in case someone else has built the same project or used the same code and got it working correctly. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.Thanks for reading!

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2025, 03:04:22 pm
content: Another copycat of the OSHW Transistortester project. Here's the real deal:-https://github.com/kubi48/TransistorTester-source-https://github.com/madires/Transistortester-Warehouse

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2025, 12:08:57 am
content: and very similar to :https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/$20-lcr-esr-transistor-checker-project/but less featured by this 2 lines lcd ...i love the nano board idea ...
DIY Control Board For HAKKO 936 from eBay wiring help. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dougie1234
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 07, 2016, 05:30:27 am
content: Hello, I was wondering if any of you gentlemen could assist me in wiring this board I bought from eBay. It says it needs 24V 3A but I plan to use a laptop brick rated at 19V 4.5A. Not even sure that it will work.My question is where do I wire the power and ground to the board? There's a 2 prong connector but when I trace them, 1 goes to the heater and the other goes to Vcc on the LM358 IC. Really I'm confused as to where to connect the ground.Apologise in advance for the silly question. Thanks for reading.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2016, 02:28:47 pm
content: It's 24VAC input, and I'm not sure it would work with DC since it uses a triac to switch the heater and relies on the zero-crossing of the waveform to turn off.

author: dougie1234
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 07, 2016, 10:34:52 pm
content: Thanks for the reply. I guess I should've read the auction description more carefully first before buying it.
DIY Current Limiter with V, A, W, PF Meter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: paul_g_787
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2021, 07:53:36 pm
content: Hi everyone.I am building myself a DIY current limiter (consisting of a lamp in series with the AC output) for using when I work on various repairs such as amplifiers.Just like Uncle Doug's one here:https://youtu.be/wRFRwOnLsZIHowever my one will be in a nice fully enclosed wooden box, with a UK single gang socket as the output. This way it can sit on my garage bench in the corner and I can plug into it at will without the faf (and ever so slightly exposed live connections).I thought it would be a good idea to fit a Volt / Amp / Watt / Power Factor meter to it as this would be very useful when testing to have an all-in-one unit.I have found this which looks quite good. What is everyone's thoughts on this? How accurate are these meters?https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284126872772

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2021, 07:33:13 am
content: Hello, the series lamp is a cheap last resort, much better to use a metered Variac, 0-120/140 or 0-240/260V at any current.Some include V, A meters and even wattmeters.Alternative is unmetered Variac and use external plugin VAW digital line monitor,All avail on epay..Jon
DIY DAC - Offset issue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: LLL003
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 06:18:14 pm
content: Hi,(Not sure if this is quite the correct place to post this, but here we go...)I'm designing a dual 8 bit, discrete DAC. Nothing groundbreaking, just a couple of LM358 s.I have an output buffer consisting of a LM358 and an IGBT ( this onehttp://goo.gl/T90Hzv) tagged on the end as well.Here's my Schematic -(ignore the IGBT symbol, its just got the right footprint)I'm having an issue where by there is an offset of around 3.6V when all of the input pins are disconnected, on every node ( except Vcc and GND). This seems to be invariant of Vcc, ive tried from 3v upto 15v, all the same. When the input pins of one DAC are pulled to ground, there is still an offset of ~1.2V on the non-inverting input. As far as i was aware, isnt that point supposed to be a virtual ground?Honestly i have no idea what i've done wrong. I can include some of the test data as well if thats any use to anyone.Any help would be much appreciated.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 06:31:28 pm
content: It is well possible the circuit is oscillating. Usually there is extra fast feedback around the OP needed. Also the LM358 has quite some internal offset - so something like 10 mV offset is expected from this.

author: LLL003
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 06:44:23 pm
content: Quote from: Kleinstein on February 01, 2016, 06:31:28 pmI couldn't see any oscillation on the scope (a small amount of noise from my power supply, but nothing major) and there's far more than 10mv offset, that's for sure. about 1.2V at pin 3 on IC1A in the schematic when the inputs are 0v, and around 3.6V when unconnected.Is there any way i can check if my OPamp is fried without removing it from the circuit?

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 07:20:11 pm
content: At least in the drawing, the inputs of the first OP are reversed. Feed back should go to negative input.Depending on OP internal offset the output would this way be at its upper limit all the time.

author: LLL003
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 07:24:45 pm
content: Quote from: Kleinstein on February 01, 2016, 07:20:11 pmYerp. I see it now...Excuse me whilst i try and hack the thing together XD

author: CaveMannDave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 07:43:09 pm
content: Hi:Yeah, buddy: SLAM that first OPA stage into whatever rail it first drifts towards. HOOEEPositive only feedback, much?Also, don't they make DAC08s, or some more recent equivalent, any longer?Much tidier.Cheers,Dave
DIY DC-DC LED (remote) drivers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: John B
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2019, 02:48:04 am
content: I'm looking to design my own DC-DC LED drivers. While there's a million off the shelf items that do a basic job, there's a few things that make it worth trying myself. Namely, I'm aiming for low noise (as much HF noise filtered out as possible) and low ripple (as close to DC as possible), true analogue dimming, plus a few extra features like an interface for controlling the analogue dimming level. Input and output voltages are expected around 60V, with output currents generally around 250mA. Also the drivers would be remote mounted, with up to perhaps 15m of wire going from the driver to the LED strings. Since they're for personal use, space, size and the cost of parts aren't a concern. I am imagining large inductances and capacitance to filter the output.https://www.ti.com/product/TPS92640https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps92640.pdfOne part I've found is the TI TPS92640 synchronous buck controller chip. Seems to tick all the boxes, but the designs in the datasheet seems to focus around either minimal or no capacitance on the output, plus targeting a certain amount of ripple through the LEDs. Also no mention of mounting the drivers away from the LEDs, but it does mention that the control scheme is forgiving and shouldn't require compensation.Is there some trap that I am missing my approach? Or perhaps it is just a non-economically viable, complicated way of hooking lights up, and so it's not catered for in designs.I'm aware of a few other related issues, such as a colour change in LEDs when run at lower DC Vf, versus a higher Vf, but run at a lower duty cycle. However, with the light setups I have at the moment, I don't think it's an issue.
diy desktop power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jaRON
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2011, 06:11:40 am
content: I need help. I looking to make a desktop power supply. can you help me.

author: cyberfish
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2011, 06:21:58 am
content: Oh yeah here is some help.

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2011, 06:25:32 am
content: A little more info would be a great start.Voltage range?Current capacity?SMPS or Linear?At the very least, please let us know what work it will be used for in general.Then you should get the help you are looking for.Regards

author: jaRON
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2011, 06:30:09 am
content: i'm looking for it to have 5v 3v 12v 24v and 120v

author: cyberfish
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2011, 06:33:36 am
content: That's 33.3% for answering 1 of 3 questions.Try again.

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2011, 06:34:43 am
content: If you need those voltages on separate rails then it may get a bit expensive, however there are a number of benchtop power supplies that will easily cover 0-40v at about 5Amps.Regards

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2011, 06:35:29 am
content: Quote from: cyberfish on September 23, 2011, 06:33:36 amHe is getting there......

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 23, 2011, 06:39:53 am
content: Quote from: jaRON on September 23, 2011, 06:30:09 amwhy 120 V ? forgive me but you sound inexperienced and nobody in their right mind plays with 120V unless they really have to and usually a 120V supply would be a separate unit as with such a voltage difference it would just complicate matters.You still need to answer the questions we have put to you. there are a number of second hand power supplies going on ebay, I just bagged a 3-15V @ 25A for £40

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2011, 07:03:18 am
content: Quote from: Simon on September 23, 2011, 06:39:53 amNow thats just bragging.....Regards

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 23, 2011, 12:39:02 pm
content: well it may be a little faulty but i though worth a gamble as I'm saving 60 odd quid on getting the new one
DIY Digitized Drawing Board!  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: IoTaLabs
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 02, 2016, 09:33:42 pm
content: Hey all, I've been using the BeagleBone Black to convert physical drawings into digital ones and I just wanted to share my project with you. I wrote up a guide so that other people could explore this area with me! Here it is:http://doteverything.co/blog2.htmlPlease let me know how I can improve the design! If you need any help or explanations, just comment. Thanks.

author: cponcsak
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2016, 04:29:39 am
content: I'm a little curious as to what the application of something like this would be. It seems to me that this area is already covered by drawing tablets or those digital pens and notebooks. The cost of your setup would also be higher than just getting a drawing tablet.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2016, 05:12:13 am
content: I would think the motive is the "DIY" and learn.Sure you can purchase touchscreens for very little, but this project tells you how it works and do your own, pretty basic resistance touch but nevertheless its great.

author: IoTaLabs
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 03, 2016, 05:53:42 am
content: The cost isn't necessarily prohibitive when compared to the hundreds of dollars for tablets. But as miguel points out, it's mainly for the DIY aspect. I personally still like sketching on paper, so this is a different approach.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2016, 06:30:55 am
content: Quote from: IoTaLabs on January 03, 2016, 05:53:42 amA resistive digitizer can be had for very cheap, plus some MCU to do the digitizing and that could be placed under the paper with no mechanical parts.So they pretty much will replace the pots, the spools and the brackets, in any event, I do like the project
DIY Dispenser Needle Bottle Stoppers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2014, 09:36:57 pm
content: In myDIY flux bottle threadI used a piece of O-ring to cap the dispenser needle. Turns out that does not work well for long term storage. The flux can dry out in the tip and it wont dispense. So the fix is making a music wire stopper that is one or two mills smaller than the dispenser tube ID. The length should be long enough to go thru the entire nozzle and sanding a nice taper on the end makes it easier to get into the tube. The loop makes it easier to grab and to see when its out of the bottle. Works to slow evaporation of solvents like the Methanol bottle shown. The flux needles are 24 ga which are .015" ID with a .012" music wire. The solvent bottle is 26 ga which is .011" ID with a .010" music wire.

author: jeremy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2014, 09:50:23 pm
content: Great! I've also seen this done with wax on the handle part to prevent it cutting your fingers when you pull hard
DIY Dry Film UV Exposure Box - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2018, 11:13:18 am
content: Well here it is such as it is. A UV LED exposing box for Photosensitive Dry Film For PCB.Nothing really special about the circuitas it simply uses a Microwave oven timer control board ,keyboard matrix,12V 10A SMPS,EMI filter from microwave ,a fan from microwave,and a DC/AC SSR.The SSR is connected to the lamp circuit to get around a 15 second cool down on the main circuit by desoldering the lamp relay and wiring in the SSR to control the SMSP.The light panel is 432 50/50 UV leds wired in 2 parallel banks of 12 X18 LED strips.These were bonded to a sheet of aluminum as a heat sink.The key board matrix I had to make myself because of the odd configuration of the original key panel.I just omitted the one touch presets but kept the clock,set time and digital timer.The microwave fan keeps everything cool.Got a friend to build the box since my carpentry skills never evolved beyond a chainsaw.The exposure is quick at 5 minutes .A test piece of film I left under normal room light and hasn't exposed in hours.The negative was printed on a Brother MFC 9440 CNAside from the keyboard it was a fairly easy build.I included a few photos and a block diagram.

author: 001
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2018, 12:45:07 pm
content: awesome projectDo UV LED is better then UV lamps?

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2018, 06:11:33 pm
content: Couldn't say if they are better. Photoresist sensitivity peaks near 365nm. Fluorescent lamps provide near ultraviolet (NUV) light (300–400nm Wavelength). The 5050 LED strips that I used have a peak wavelength of 365nm.The only advantage of UV LED over UV Fluorescent was availability in my case. Impossible to find UV lamps or fluorescent lamps locally.Probably because disposal is a pain.Local landfill charges a lot to take them because of the mercury content. Since I have to send away for just about everything electronic related anyway, it was just convenient to have a few LED strips added to a component order. Pretty much everything else was just junk lying around so it was just easier to re purpose what I had.Not sure if light intensity is any different either.No way for me to compare.Maybe some here has some information on that.
DIY DSOXLAN Interface for Keysight Oscilloscopes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2022, 12:09:29 am
content: Hi,Over 7 years ago I shared my first design for a DIY replacement for the DSOXLAN adapter for the Keysight Oscilloscope. The details can be found here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/lan-adapter-for-the-agilent-keysight-dso-x-3000-2000/I needed to build another one, and I found that the mag jack was out of stock. I selected a replacement that was in stock at Digikey. I selected Wurth 7499010121A, Digikey 732-1650-ND. There are many variations of connections.Wurth DrawingsPlastic PartsI designed the PCB to use the 3D printed plastic parts that were made available here:http://anagram.net/nuts/DSOXLAN/Schematic and PCBThe schematic and PCB were made in KiCAD version 5. A custom part was made for the edge connector.These are the 3D images from KiCAD:PCB manufactureThe boards were made by JLCPCB. These are pictures of the finished boards:To be continued..Jay_Diddy_B

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2022, 12:17:16 am
content: Continuing..TestingThe web interface can be accessed:The scope was connected to my LAN with a cable to the router, the PC was connected to the LAN via WIFI.FilesA zipfile is attached that includes all the files required to reproduce or modify this project.PDF schematicA PDF file with the schematic is also attached.Regards,Jay_Diddy_B

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2022, 12:14:27 pm
content: Hi,Here is an alternative design that uses the HanRun HR911105A ethernet jack. This jack is available fromwww.LCSC.com.Link:https://lcsc.com/products/Ethernet-Connectors-Modular-Connectors-RJ45-RJ11_449.html?keyword=HR911105AHanRun DrawingsPlastic PartsI designed the PCB to use the 3D printed plastic parts that were made available here:http://anagram.net/nuts/DSOXLAN/PCB ManufactureThe boards were made by JLCPCB. These are pictures of the finished boards:To be continued ...Regards,Jay_Diddy_B

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2022, 12:24:50 pm
content: Continuing ..TestingThe web interface can be accessed:FilesI have attached the zipfile required to get the PCB manufactured at JLCPCB (or another PCB supplier).PDF schematicA PDF file containing the schematic is attached.Regards,Jay_Diddy_B

author: globoy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2022, 04:17:28 pm
content: Thanks for sharing your designs!

author: skennedy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2023, 07:03:24 am
content: Hi Jay_Diddy_B,Thanks very much for this updated design, it certainly beats spending quite so much for the OEM version!Any chance you would be able to share your STL files for the 3d printed parts? They appear to have been removed from your linked web address.Kind regards,skennedy

author: Atarone
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 03, 2023, 07:39:34 pm
content: Please find attached the STL files for the printed parts.
DIY Electric wire cutter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mrkva
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 22, 2015, 10:19:05 pm
content: Hello,I wonder what would be the best solution for this sort of cable cutting operation:https://youtu.be/N2JmvUMScq8In particular I mean the cutting/stripping jaw operation. I hope for getting that sort of "motor" somewhere and mounting it with ready-made cutting jaws available through usual distributors.I have no idea where to start. Thanks for any help!

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2015, 12:35:51 am
content: Same way they do it in the video? Two V shaped blades coming together?Another novel approach would be to roll the wire against a single cutter, maybe even a small rotating saw blade. Maybe roll the wire in alternating directions for each successive cut?

author: jeroen79
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2015, 01:33:34 am
content: Quote from: mrkva on November 22, 2015, 10:19:05 pmLike a stepping motor?

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2015, 01:45:34 am
content: Some previous projects:https://hackaday.com/tag/wire-cutter/