hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Metrahit X-tra data logging - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: thilo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2011, 11:30:41 am
content: Hi,as far as I know you can cycle through the logged values on an Agilent DMM, but is this also possible on a Metrahit X-tra? I couldn't find anything in the manual...Thanks,Thilo.

author: Richard W.
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2011, 11:55:47 am
content: Hello Thilo,sorry,bad news, it's not possible to see the saved data. You will need the adapter.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2011, 03:32:57 pm
content: What ?It can not be so ...With Agilent data logging, the problem starts when you have to review more than 50 entries,and its not a problem of the DMM, it has to do with the patience of the user, like if he had the patience to push more than 50 times,the same button.Speaking about a log with 100 or 10.000 entries, even the capable Agilent data logging DMM, it would force you to use the damn cable and upload the data.But the manually stored data logged entries, are easy to cycle through and view them, because they are few.

author: thilo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2011, 04:56:39 pm
content: Quote from: Richard W. on September 01, 2011, 11:55:47 amI already suspected that. But I don't see the value in buying such an expensive adapter (and then I still need the software!), for that money I can easily get an aditional Agilent DMM + adapter cable to do data logging.Thanks,Thilo.
Aoyue 857A++ 2.4mm nozzle fit problem? Or is it? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: shadewind
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2011, 12:23:28 am
content: I got a hot air station recently and I've been trying out different nozzles a bit. All nozzles work fine except for the 2.4 mm one. I've tried desoldering some small resistors (0603) but it takes a very long time. I've got the temperature set to 350 C and the airflow on the default setting. I'm suspecting the culprit might be that the nozzle seems to fit a little worse than other nozzles which leads to some of the air leaking out the sides and instead blowing back on my hand (not so warm that it's uncomfortable, but I can feel it). But maybe it's just the very small hole in the nozzle which forces the air to escape on the sides? Or maybe the problem is simply that the nozzle is too small to heat the area the resistor and the area around it effectively?Anyway... has someone else experienced this with small nozzles in this or other stations? Maybe small nozzles are simply inappropriate for most work? What sizes do you usually use?

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2011, 09:27:21 am
content: 5 mm is a good size. Smaller nozzles create a problem for the pumps in such cheap hot air stations. The small nozzle means pressure is building up in the system (as evident by your observation that you have some 'blow out'), and the cheap pumps can't work well against that pressure - reducing the maximum airflow you can get out.Fixing your 'blow out' should increase the airflow a little bit, but won't make a huge difference. These nozzles are typically of rather soft material, so you should be able to bend the 2.4 mm nozzle into some better shape to sit a little bit tighter. Also check if you have other leakages in the air system. But see above.350 °C is also a little bit low. On a professional, well regulated station one would typically start with 400 °C, and 20 l/minute air flow. But scales, displays and regulations on these cheap hot air stations are such that what is shown on the displays or scales is not what is going on. Especially the airflow is not regulated.

author: shadewind
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2011, 11:03:43 am
content: Thanks for the great answer. I suppose I could bend the small nozzle into shape but it seemed to me that it worked poorly regardless of airflow which tells me that it's probably more of a temperature problem. As always, you get what you pay for, of course, but I feel that this station could be a lot worse. At least it's rather solidly built and has no electrical safety issues.
Why is this meter so expensive? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: House91320
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2011, 05:11:47 pm
content: I came across this meter and I'm wondering why it's so expensive it's 3 times the price of mine and as i can see it it isn't any better in fact in some respects its worse, And its not like a fluke who has the brand to bring up the price.http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MILWAUKEE-Digital-Multimeter-5MLK1?Pid=search

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2011, 05:19:38 pm
content: It supposed to came with a NIST calibration certificate, and this add about 100$ in the final price.Nothing surprising speaking about the look of it or about extra functions.

author: House91320
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2011, 05:40:43 pm
content: ya that's probably why

author: ejeffrey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2011, 08:05:00 pm
content: It is clearly an industrial electricians meter, not an electronics meter. For instance, it has low-Z voltage measurement. I don't know if it is actually a reasonable buy for anyone, but evaluating it based on things like resolution and accuracy is definitely going to come up short.

author: PetrosA
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2011, 08:50:38 pm
content: The same DMM without NIST on Amazon is $132. Big difference, but Grainger is always way higher than any place else.
OWON MSO 8xxx series  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: seb
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 31, 2011, 02:31:14 pm
content: I think this topic was discussed more than 100 times in this forum, but i found nothing about the OWON MSO series.Has anyone some experience in the OWON MSO 8202T. I would like to buy a new MSO in the price range of 1000€ (~ 1400 $). At the moment i use two HAMEG HM208 "Digital storage Scope". This scopes are quiet nice, but this oldschool units quickly reach their limits. Now its time for something new.I searched for some use devices, but the most stuff is such expensive as an cheap new one and eBay is a crazy marked place for buying used stuff. Some people bit's a lot of money at 15 or 20 years old nearly damaged units.@ Dave: I was very impressed about your DMM overview. Can you set up an episode about beginner and semi professional oscilloscopes ?

author: bertchai
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2011, 02:36:09 pm
content: It might be a bit off topic but with your budget, do you think Agilent DSOX2012A series will suit your need?DSOX2012A Oscilloscope, 2-channel, 100MHz $1494.00 at this websitehttp://www.tequipment.net/AgilentDSOX2012A.asp

author: Bren
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2011, 02:43:59 pm
content: +1 on the Agilent DSOX2012A.I don't have experience with that scope, but I've been shopping for a new one for the last 2+ years and so far the Agilent looks like it's the best for the money.

author: seb
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 31, 2011, 03:49:14 pm
content: Thank for the link.I think the Agilent is absolutely the better choice than the Chinese stuff. But the price of 1400 $ is only for the DSO. The 2xxx MSO series starts at +2000$. I think, i'll be searching for a time
Desoldering station with straight (not gun) handpiece - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: img
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2011, 12:21:00 pm
content: For some reason my MBT250 control unit decided to misbehave, and while I am repairing it I am thinking about getting a desoldering station like Hakko 472D-01. It's important that the handpiece is straight, not gun-shaped, as I am really used to my Pace one and it feels great.The question is, other than Hakko and maybe Xytronics LF6000, can you think of other more or less acceptable options I can consider? I don't need a desoldering station and soldering iron combo, as I already have 4 temp-controlled soldering irons, and my bench isn't that big.Thanks for your suggestions.

author: ciccio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2011, 07:29:49 pm
content: Weller makes two : models (for Europe) WDD81X (that has no vacuum pump: it requires shop air) and WRS1002X.JBC makes others: model CS/CVhttp://www.jbctools.com/stations/stations/desoldering-rework/234-desoldering-rework/414-cs-cv-microdesoldering-stationsand model DIS/DIV/DSShttp://www.jbctools.com/stations/stations/desoldering-rework/234-desoldering-rework/326-dis-div-dss-desoldering-station.A supplier of mine has the smaller JBC unit, and it's a joy to use.

author: zaoka
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2011, 08:05:04 pm
content: As far as I know only ERSA and JBC station does not use gun style handpiece and are fast recovery stations that can handle new lead free multilayer boards.Hakko 470 and MBT250 Pace are old technology.

author: img
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2011, 06:17:39 pm
content: Quote from: zaoka on July 29, 2011, 08:05:04 pmOh, not a problem at all. 80 percent of results are obtained with 20 percent of tools. I do love JBC though. Never tried Ersa.

author: img
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2011, 06:18:44 pm
content: Quote from: ciccio on July 29, 2011, 07:29:49 pmYeah, JBC is VERY nice. I dream about these rework stations at night....
Spring hook for Rigol probe - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: shadewind
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2011, 12:48:27 am
content: I seem to have lost the little spring hook tip thingie that attaches to one of the probes for my Rigol DS1052E. Is there some standard for these things so I could get just one of this spring hook things from Farnell or should I simply shell out for a new probe?If I'm getting a new probe, anything in particular I should look out for? I won't be using it for much high speed stuff so I doubt it really matters all that much but I thought I'd ask just in case.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 19, 2011, 04:34:13 pm
content: Scope probe dimensions are not standardized. Some are interchangeable, but you really have to try or check dimensions in the data sheet very carefully.I believe there are some posts about cheap scope probes on this forum, try searching. I dislike them, but that's mainly because I care about transient response and circuit loading. As long as they didn't screw up completely (eg. used a capacitor with a lot of dielectric absorption), cheap probes should be fine for low frequency use where loading is not critical.

author: tekfan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2011, 05:17:58 pm
content: Just as a tip for those who have old Tektronix probes that have also lost the hook tip. They are actually interchangeable with the cheap probes you see on ebay.
IP67 Rated Waterproof Autoranging Multimeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: walcen
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2011, 09:46:16 am
content: I just picked up this $120 multimeter, as my cheapy. It looks like an Extech EX 530 Mock up but it seems to have some good features, wide cap range, true RMS and stuff. I bought it over the counter and asked for a discount so they reduced it to $100.The data can be found on the web site below where I bought it.http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=Q1088#Yes I submerged it in a bucket of water.Yes I dismantled it, no water inside.yes it looks to be a tough meter and reasonably well made.No I didn't run over it with my car, but I will if you want to buy me another one.I have tear down pics if you wanna see em, and if I can work out how to put them on this here forum.For my not so cheapy I'm considering a UNI-T 4-3/4 TRUE RMS MULTIMETER UT71D, Or an Extech EX 530.the UNI-T I can buy locally for around $150, The Extech is considerably more expensive at $190 from the US.regards to allWal

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2011, 10:24:46 am
content: Quote from: walcen on July 29, 2011, 09:46:16 amThe true IP67 it should be able to be submerged for 30 minutes and dust-proof.But this specific no-name DMM have as specifications :IP67splashand dust-proofThis Rating looks to be a trueIP54.Regards,Kiriakos(I do keep a copy of the videos: EEVblog #64 & EEVblog #66) Dave did his best on those two.
Whats catch  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: House91320
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2011, 05:13:11 pm
content: i was looking at deal extream today and i saw thishttp://www.dealextreme.com/p/5-7-tft-lcd-100mhz-2-channel-digital-color-storage-oscilloscope-54074#openfull view 100mhz 2,gps sounds great, my question is what am i missing this is only $440 there must be something im missing or els this thing is the deal of the year.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2011, 06:04:27 pm
content: If you find anything similar in Europe let me know.LOLNop I do not get exited, the Rigol 50Mhz, cost locally 300 EUR.The brand on the link its totally unknown.Do you love experiments ? if yes get it.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2011, 07:59:45 pm
content: Silgent are the same as Atten.The price isn't anything special, the same 'scope can be bought off ebay for less.It only comes with a Chinese manual so does that mean the menus are all in Chinese?

author: House91320
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2011, 08:15:11 pm
content: i was reading the specs on the manufactures site and its actually 1gps not 2
USB Microscopes for PCB inspection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2011, 09:42:24 am
content: Anyone considering the purchase of a USB microscope may be interested in this threadhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=4167.msg55114#msg55114The discussion extends beyond it's title and provides some sample pictures from my USB microscope.

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 23, 2011, 09:53:39 am
content: I can not find the exact name of your microscope. Any link?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2011, 11:39:55 am
content: Sadly mine is a "no name" USB microscope from China. I Can post pictures of it but many looke very similar these days. Details that I noted about mine are as follows:1. It has the oval snapshot button as opposed to the round ones seen on many units2. There are 4 LED illuminators in the head3. The LED's are fixed brightness and there is no brightness control on the unit itself or it's USB lead4. The all important lens has a metal (brass) shell and a lens of ~3.0mm diameter. Smaller aperture = greater depth of field but sadly also less light capture but I find mine fit for purpose.5. The magnification is stated as 20X/200XI believe my model has been superceded now but I wanted to point out that models like the Veho 'Discovery' that I also bought, had inferior mechanical assemblies for the optics and some use what is basically a web cam lens with an ~8mm lens diameter. I will post pictures of my unit for reference later today.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2011, 01:23:48 pm
content: As promised, pictures of my "no name" USB microscope, its lens and the box it came in.

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 23, 2011, 02:54:22 pm
content: Thank you.I think I will be sirfing the web looking for a device like those, the optical stereo microscope I own is not calibrated and my eyes see different things through it.
Teardown DAZHENG PS-1501T  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: hacklordsniper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2011, 04:43:03 pm
content: While checking the flea market i noticed this little power supply. The cable was cut away meaning its surely dead, but knowing it will be simple to fix and having a price smaller than a pack of candies i just had to buy it.In comparision to a other power supply which does the same it is very big. But inside there is very little with many unused mounting holes so i believe they make them in different flavorsThe 2N3055 blew so i added a "real" heatsink behind.The biggest problem was it was very, very dirty! I spent about 1/4 L of alcohol to clean it. It was covered in cigarette tar and grease and various other unknown icky-sticky stuff. Now its clean and works nicely.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2011, 08:50:52 pm
content: Nice restoration job, the design reminds me of just emerging from or Mao dominated China era technology. What kind of regulation do you get from it?

author: hacklordsniper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2011, 04:31:22 am
content: Quote from: saturation on July 22, 2011, 08:50:52 pmIts possible to regulate only the voltage 0-15.5 V and the current is internally limited to 1 A before the relay disconnects the output. However it would be easily modified for adjustable current limiting.What worries me that i will need to ditch this power supply. The smell of "old ashtray" coming from this unit is so bad it stinks my lab and my house.Any advices how to get rid of that smell? I washed throughly with 99 % alcohol the unit and removed all tar

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2011, 01:43:01 pm
content: If it still smells after all your cleaning it may mean the tar/nicotine is stuck to the PCB, and coating the components too, washing the PCB is much work. Instead of throwing it out, you can salvage parts for your future projects, they are also easier to clean thoroughly. Tar & nicotine are organic, and can be washed out with isopropyl alcohol, just desolder what you need, then soak them all in a bucket of alcohol.Quote from: hacklordsniper on July 23, 2011, 04:31:22 am
Stone as a heatsink? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: alexig
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2011, 12:04:23 pm
content: Hi all,I just pulled a product apart and found that one chip had a stone based material (or something similar) on it as a heatsink.This is the first time I've seen this, is it common and/or just a way to cut costs? This board also had a proper heatsink on a larger chip.Alex.

author: scrat
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2011, 12:39:48 pm
content: Could be a ceramic (sintered) material..

author: sacherjj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2011, 01:51:22 pm
content: It could impulse heat sink needs and using the thermal mass of the ceramic as a buffer. I'm not familiar with the heat transfer characteristics of ceramics vs more normal heat sink materials.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2011, 03:16:29 pm
content: Nice, first time I've seen that on a real product. Read about them, since they are porous and thermally conductive they have more exposed surface area than aluminum.http://www.electronics-cooling.com/2010/11/micro-porous-ceramic-heat-sinks-enhance-heat-dissipation/http://www.ceramtec.com/index/products/ceramcool/ceramic-heat-sinks/I've seen them in some LED bulbs, but thought at first they were insulators.Quote from: scrat on July 20, 2011, 12:39:48 pm

author: sacherjj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2011, 03:28:48 pm
content: Interesting. Good links, thanks.

author: scrat
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2011, 07:26:28 pm
content: I remember ceramic packaged ICs, like Intel's 8088 or something similar... Even older than me!However, I think some PC processors have been packaged in ceramics until quite recent days.You could recognize them from the "metallic" sound (with respect to plastics) and roughness of the surface.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2011, 11:25:51 am
content: Yes, I remember many of those, I always thought it was some sort of metal alloy that felt like ceramic.Quote from: scrat on July 21, 2011, 07:26:28 pm
GME technology products review and teardown (3 in 1 review) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: hacklordsniper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2011, 11:52:03 am
content: PART 1http://www.gmetechnology.com/I decided i need a resistor decade for developing some of my circuits. Using pots for quick debugging is over complicated and I need long time to set various resistances. Last time i used one of those was in school. I remembered in school we had many broken ones and our teacher said they have special variable resistors which are impossible to obtain. Well it was 7 years ago...After searching eBay i found GME technology products which looked fine, they have standard switches (easily replacable) and standard resistors (probably) so it would be easily replaced.http://gmetechnology.com/index.php/products/test-and-measurement-equipment/rd-300-resistance-decade-boxWhile browsing their distributor on eBay i seen they have a nice capacitor decade box too. Well i bought that one too.http://gmetechnology.com/index.php/products/test-and-measurement-equipment/cd-300-capacitance-decade-boxAnd then i seen they have a nice ESR meter, and my bench Hameg one cant test capacitors in circuit (theirs can), does not give a quick visual response about the state of capacitor. And i don't use my Hameg modular system when when working with high voltage since its very expensive, unrepairable so i just use it for low voltage stuff where I'm sure nothing bad can happen. So i bought that too, what the heck I'm allready saving on combined shipping.http://gmetechnology.com/index.php/products/test-and-measurement-equipment/236-esr-dcr-capacitor-testerThen i saw their handheld DDS function generator and i didn't buy it since its crapTeardown pictures to follow today or tomorrow.

author: hacklordsniper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2011, 04:34:54 pm
content: Here are the units proudly sitting on the bench. I like the units because they are very small, compact and have quality feeling. Case of units is made from plastics and they have a rubber case with a stand in the back. The units work very good, i was impressed by ESR meter performance. It measured good known good capacitors and in a moment catches known bad capacitors.The only thing i don't like that leads of ESR meter are hard soldered to the unit and do not use a connector. Since this are so simply units i don't know what to review moreThe funny fact : The capacitor decade fell to bits when i removed rubber case, it looks like Chinese forget to put screws. It can clearly be seen the casing never seen a self tapping screw

author: Time
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2011, 04:37:33 pm
content: I am a little distracted by the labrador pulling a cart.

author: hacklordsniper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2011, 05:19:11 pm
content: Quote from: Time on July 19, 2011, 04:37:33 pmHe is collecting solder drops to his cart so they don't burn the table
Reball, sinners!!!! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: img
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2011, 07:30:30 am
content: I am doing my budget for next year, and one of the things I want to get is a nice IR welder for my reballs.I am almost done getting a demo out of PDR, and while waiting for that to happen decided to ask the good people of this forum for opinions.There's Puhui T870 and 890, and Ayoue's BGA9001 and maybe many others that I don't yet know about.Is there an IR machine in your life that you love? Do you do larger chips? Please comment on your experience, on ease of use, longevity and quality of machine, etc.Please go into as much detail as possible about preheating, as that's something that interests me most. If you know of any literature on physics of preheating/rework, please share.Many thanks.

author: hisense999
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2011, 09:16:10 am
content: Just go to forums where you can find info from GSM or computer repair shops, GSM community is very huge and I think they have the most big experience with BGA reworking - you can find even movies and whole details of they equipement and experience look for google or your local GSM forums. No special literature there but huge experience from done work.Also here is Attached good start point from Motorola.B.R.
Versatronics pick&place machine video - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: FreeThinker
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2011, 03:17:31 pm
content: I WANT ONE!

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2011, 03:18:30 pm
content: Thanks for the fascinating video, Mike. It scares me seeing all those moving parts and contemplating all the different ways it could go wrong! I think I will stick to relying on my subcontractors for assembly work.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2011, 04:27:24 pm
content: Quote from: deephaven on July 12, 2011, 03:18:30 pmActually this is one of the mechanically simplest P&P machines out there, and from what I hear from other users, the mechanics have proved to be pretty reliable over the years.The problem with subcontractors is it's pretty much impossible to get small jobs turned round quickly. I still use them for bigger jobs but this machine fills a useful gap between hand assembly and subcontract, and is one of the smallest and cheapest machines on the UK used market.

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2011, 05:41:28 pm
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on July 12, 2011, 04:27:24 pmI'm quite lucky as I have a smallish local subcontractor that is quite happy to make prototypes and small runs for me. If I say it's urgent, I get really good turn-around times from them (1-2 days). They also pick up and deliver straight to my door so I'm really spoilt. Of course, nothing beats having your own pick and place machine.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2011, 06:13:09 pm
content: Make that 'extremely lucky'...The problem I've found is the small places can be economically shaky and have a habit of disappearing, they are typically depending on one or two main customers who will always get priority, and bigger places aren't generally interested in smaller jobs. Finding the 'right-sized' place with a good attitude can be very difficult.

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2011, 08:39:17 pm
content: I've used the same place for some twenty years now. They have re-invested in the business and grown slowly but are still quite small. They have a couple of machines, so even if they have a big run, they can still accommodate small runs at the same time. Plus they have some really good hand assemblers who do our small boards plus some wiring. They are prepared to do this even for a couple of hundred boards and they will turn these around in 2-3 weeks, quicker if I asked. The quality and accuracy of their work is excellent to the point that it is very unusual to have a single error in a batch of boards.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 13, 2011, 05:02:01 am
content: I'm still getting my board hand assembled by a guy out his garage in Melbourne!Dave.
Manufacturer Reputations and Characteristics? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ruku
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2011, 05:20:11 pm
content: So I'm in the market to start stocking up on some passive components. Nothing that I'm going to send to space or the Sahara Desert, but I also don't want to pick up cheap components that fail. I've seen a ton of companies when buying parts, and some names are sticking. Vishay / Dale, Rohm, Panasonic. I've also seen some weird off brands, "Yuego" for example. Unfamiliar with that one. I'm just wondering if any of you with industry experience have formed any opinions on manufacturers, or whether I'm being silly with this.An example would be Maxim. They have the MAX 232 chip, and a whole bunch of expensive weird specialty products. I usually filter them out when looking for jelly beans. Analog, Linear, and TI are great for op amps, but I wouldn't necessarily look to them for linear regulators and the like. Perhaps National Semiconductor.The above opinions are only loosely held, I haven't had much time in the industry.

author: Zad
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2011, 06:05:06 pm
content: What do you intend using the components for? An amateur / hobbyist has vastly different requirements to someone designing a product that may sell in the hundreds of thousands. Don't worry about Maxxim if you only need 1 or 2 components.
Agilent U1272A -  Holster quick Fix   - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2011, 02:58:13 am
content: When I got my own U1272A I did notice that at the back of it, the tilt bail lock mechanism,was a bit off position.This caused the tilt bail to open by it self.I did notify Agilent about it, but I could not wait for their fix,and so I waked up the Odysseus from Ithaca that I hide in me..I was trying for hours to find one simple and easy solution,that every one can reproduce, even an 10 years old child.And I did find the solution.All that I had to do, was to add one tiny bold-nut 2.2mm thickness at top point,of the locking system.To enter the lock nut in there was almost easy to do.And when it was in place, I just use my hot air gun, for 10 seconds,by aiming on the tiny bold-nut.The lock point moved down just 0.5mm, and that's it.I waited 30 seconds so the plastic to cool down with the bold-nut in place.If the center point goes is place with the heat, the bold-nut starts to free-play,and the removal of it needs no effort.Three minutes later = complete cool down, tested it and I got 100% success.And the most amazing, is that the lock mechanism is very well made,the locking point on the tilt bail, is made in a way that the middle axle acts as spring,and in long term, is almost impossible to be ever an issue in this area.Check the pictures !!If you got unlucky by having this issue on your DMM, just follow my steps !!

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2011, 05:30:40 am
content: where's your patent?

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2011, 12:41:17 pm
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on June 28, 2011, 05:30:40 amIf you wonder about patent registration, my patent is in the next page,after the page about the Trojan horse .. Lol
JBC AD4300 soldering station teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: zaoka
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2011, 07:18:42 pm
content: Here it is, dual soldering station, 2 separate transformers for each channel, third transformer to supply digital circuits...

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 24, 2011, 07:52:35 pm
content: Images are too big. Can you resize them, please?

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2011, 08:05:26 pm
content: Thanks for sharing, great photos!

author: firewalker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2011, 05:34:23 pm
content: Thanks for the infos.Price?

author: tekfan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2011, 06:23:58 pm
content: Quote from: firewalker on June 25, 2011, 05:34:23 pmIf you ask how much then it's too much. Maybe you can a used one on ebay for 300 EUR. (maybe)The new ones are insanely priced but that's what you have to pay to get such a high quality station.
Agilent DSO-X scope under yellow light in cleanroom - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: elCap
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2011, 01:42:35 am
content: Hi all,Recently I brought my scope, Agilent DSO-X InifiniiVision, to work for some field test. It worked fine (of course), and I was very pleased to see that the color scheme used for the 4 channels worked very well under yellow light used in the clean room. Anyone worked under yellow light knows that identify things by color is really difficult in this type of environment. And therefore numbers and letters are preferred for identification.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 24, 2011, 05:40:37 am
content: Interesting.Accident or good design?Dave.

author: tesla500
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2011, 06:03:39 am
content: I'm curious, why do they use yellow lights in clean rooms?Did you have to put the scope through any special cleaning procedure before bringing it into the clean room? I'm sure there's dust collected inside it that could get blown out when you turn it on.

author: elCap
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2011, 06:40:20 am
content: I think by good design. Because the color they use are a little strange in white light, not the first choice for anyone given a task of selecting 4 colors. And by selecting 4 colors that by coincident all work under yellow light seems a little too unlikely.Working under yellow light is a funny thing. I remember one case where I complained strongly to the design department wondering why they had chosen to use 3 black and 1 red cable for a serial interface. Turned out that they were red, blue, green and purple...Quote from: EEVblog on June 24, 2011, 05:40:37 amThe reason for yellow light is that the equipment I'm working on is a printer for making photomasks. The substrates have a light sensitive resist (coating) on them. So it's same idea as having red light in an old style photo development room.Normally there is some cleaning instructions for stuff brought into the clean room. The level of cleaning needed depends very much on what level the clean room is and what kind of activity is going on there. And there is big variation among different companies! Normally you just blow off the dust by compressed air. Then there is air shower you have to pass before going into the clean room. And the laminar air flow in the room will make sure any particles are blown down and out.Quote from: tesla500 on June 24, 2011, 06:03:39 am

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 24, 2011, 07:51:19 am
content: I do remember being told by a head Agilent R&D person that the Blue LED for the WAVgen was purely arbitrary, the design guys just liked blue!I know that the calculator division in the old HP used to put a lot of effort into colour research for key legends on the calculators.Dave.
Opinions on the Mastech MS8218? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: JimmyM
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2011, 06:12:07 pm
content: I've been doing Electronics hobby projects for a while now and find myself needing more than one multimeter. Also having watched Dave's vblogs I get that I SHOULD have more than one. My first meter (an old Radio Shack) has been replaced a few years ago with a Fluke 189. I watched Dave's review on bargain multimeters and I fear being called a dickhead for buying a pair of Vichy VC99s. They rarely leave the bench, so physical toughness isn't an issue. I've found their accuracy very good. Comparing very-very closely with the 189 (sometimes dead on).Now I want to get another more-full featured meter like the 189, but can't stomach buying another $400 meter. So I've been looking at the Mastech MS8218. The cost is reasonable (I've found them for $115USD).So has anyone bought/used one of these?

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2011, 02:10:41 pm
content: If you know about DMMs, why not get a used Fluke 80s series on eBay, in the $100-200, or $150-200 for a used Fluke 87V. Since its very durable and hold their cal for decades, most any of them are as good as new so long as it wasn't abused. There are also a few Agilent 1250s series in eBay too for slightly more money, but they are recent vintage. On what to watch out for, see a user's buy guide by excavortee, also an eevblog member.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2011, 02:22:52 pm
content: I have an smart suggestion for you.How about one small and fresh like a hot cake Agilent ?Check the new line ( three weeks old ) U1230 series

author: JimmyM
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2011, 07:24:21 pm
content: Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on July 05, 2011, 02:22:52 pmThe U1232 looks nice. I'll think about it. Can't beat Agilent.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2011, 09:26:30 pm
content: Well if you get it, you will become famous in the forum.The first review of it, it will be yours.I have the U1272A.About the price of those new U1230 series, it is too good, for what they do.If you can forgive the less counts.

author: JimmyM
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2011, 10:24:46 am
content: Quote from: saturation on July 05, 2011, 02:10:41 pmI can't find any Agilent U1251s 1252s, 1253s on eBay at all.I was, however, bidding on a used Fluke 87V last night. But it shot up past $150 and I just let it go. Too much. Would LOVE to have the 87V or the U1253, but they're just way beyond my means right now for a meter that would be a companion to my Fluke 189.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2011, 11:21:26 am
content: The Agilent's are fewer, so you have to wait for them to 'pop up'. I've seen 10 in the past month.http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110709310039&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:ITBidding is an art form, if you don't do it well, you won't get the lowest price.Quote from: JimmyM on July 06, 2011, 10:24:46 am
Atten Dual DC Power Supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Teknotronix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2011, 06:44:17 am
content: Anyone got an opinion on this item? Any better alternatives in the price range?http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110679741060&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2011, 12:42:56 pm
content: I prefer getting multiple separate single analog supplies for about the same amount of money, this way if one unit fails you can offline and repair it and still have working units; if but one of a 2 or 3in1 PSU fails, you have no PSU until the repair is done. Also, the multiple PSU in one usually a single multitap transformer while multiple single PSU means multiple redundant transformers, more backup.A lot of these PSU are just clones of each other, and if its analog its likely good as its well established technology. I dont' know Atten's reputation in PSU but did take a chance on a no-name Maxtech here in the USA and it does function well.

author: Ronnie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2011, 08:01:18 am
content: Quote from: saturation on May 10, 2011, 12:42:56 pmHere is the link to Mastech Power Supplyhttp://www.mastechpowersupply.com/
Extech 382270 Power Supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: CaucusRacer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 22, 2011, 01:37:39 pm
content: Anyone have any experience with the Extech 382270 supply?http://www.extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=39&prodid=209

author: DaveW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2011, 02:43:32 pm
content: I've used/recommended basically the same supply (under the Caltek name) lots of times. I've have used the dual 30V, 5A supply for a year or so now and I know people that have the triple supply (30v, 5A x2, 5V x 1). They seem to be good, with a linear supply there's little to go wrong and simple to fix if they do. There's a fan, but it only comes on under temperature control so it's quiet most of the time. Oh, and the voltage control is a little coarse, although useable. All in all, I've found it to be a good supply for the money although not in the same league as my TTI or agilent at work.Having said that, there was someone on here that found that the fixed supply was a reasonable amount out, within spec, but not ideal. I have checked the voltage on mine and a couple of others on the variable output and they have been accurate,HTH

author: CaucusRacer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 22, 2011, 03:14:21 pm
content: I'm not looking to spend the proverbial arm and a leg for an Agilent. I'm just looking for something reasonable, dual tracking, relatively high current and that might actually hold up long term.Thanks for the input. The actual user experience info is a real help.

author: Ronnie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2011, 07:22:20 am
content: Two units (original and replacement) I ordered at Amazon are defective. I didn't have a chance to own an Extech 382270 Power Supply. Eventually I ended up with a Protek 3205L dual output (30 V @ 5 A) from Mouser Electronics. The 3205L construction quality is very good. Looks like I'll be using it for a long time; my application is audio pre & power amplifier design.See attached for the two defective Extech units sent by Amazon
New soldering work station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: House91320
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2011, 05:40:49 am
content: I am in need of a new soldering work station, I found this onlinehttp://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=15140+TL.It looks decent but if any one has a suggestion please tell me, it needs to be in the $40 range.

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2011, 05:50:07 am
content: What about just reading what has previously been written here about such stations?

author: Ronnie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2011, 06:46:19 am
content: Check this from SparkFun Electronicshttp://www.sparkfun.com/products/9672

author: House91320
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2011, 06:21:02 pm
content: Ordered this onehttp://www.web-tronics.com/cispdeesdsas.html
Crappy USB-RS485 interface rant - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: thmjpr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2011, 02:13:27 am
content: Excellent video.There is no channel to channel isolation right? Its just the four optocouplers.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2011, 09:55:23 am
content: Quote from: thmjpr on June 12, 2011, 02:13:27 amCorrect - it would be more accurate to say the PC is 'Isolated' (to the extent that a ~10mil track gap comprises isolation) then the 232/485 ports, which all share the same ground.How useful this would be (if it were done properly) depends a lot on your application, although it is a major cost-saver, and not unreasonable if it's clearly stated in the spec.

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2011, 12:40:35 pm
content: Don't the modern FTDI ICs all come with a preprogrammed serial number? So there should be no problem to distinguish them.As for the rest, ouch, what a heap of garbage that box is.I think it gets worse every day. Yesterday I confiscated a USB hub and power supply from one of the kids. It smelled funny. Today I had a look at the hub, the GL850A had a hole in it, R.I.P. The USB bus power and the power via the external power supply were just connected in parallel. No diodes, no switch.But the power supply, of courseMade in China, took the cake. Two thin, barely isolated wires carrying mains run under the 5V part of the PCB. One already damaged, because it was sandwiched between a standoff and the PCB. The PCB has a cutout below the transformer, but to mitigate this, there is a heatsink straddling the cutout. And both pins of the Y cap are also just slightly away from a heat sink. A few random splashes of solder here and there, and something that looks like bad hand soldering at the main switching transistor.But the screw holding the enclosure together took the cake. It was hidden behind the sticker on the outside of the enclosure, which was its entire isolation. And isolation it needs. Because it was going right through a tight hole on the PCB, through a track carrying mains with no clearance at all.What the hell do these incredibly incompetent Chinese assholes who develop and produce this shit think? I don't call them engineers, I call them pieces of shit who either don't give a damm or intentionally try to kill people.To the unknown scrupulous assholes developing, manufacturing, putting a CE mark on it, and selling a 100 - 240V to 5V, 3A power supply called Moder  YD-4802, PCB marking XH-009 (followed by symbols that look like "fA"), please do the world a favor, do a career change. If you love dead people, why don't you just become an undertaker?

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2011, 12:46:17 pm
content: Quote from: BoredAtWork on June 12, 2011, 12:40:35 pmFT232R does, but the high-speed FTx232H ones don't - they need external eeproms. FTx232H also need an option set in eeprom to enable the TXEN funcitonality.
Capture rigol screen image to disk file? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: RCMR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2011, 04:20:55 am
content: Okay, I've been using my Rigol DS1052 scope for regular analog scope stuff to date and have been too busy to really delve into its larger featureset.However, there's one thing I'd really like to be able to do and perhaps someone can give me a yay or nay on whether it's simple or even possible.I want to take the capture data (or simply what's displayed on the screen) and dump it to a file in some kind of graphic format so I can include it in some reports.Is there a simple command that will dump this data to the USB (even a flash-drive perhaps)?Yes, I could trawl through the documentation and install the PC software but I figured I'd try to save myself some time by simply asking those who probably already know and can deliver an answer in a fraction the time.Thanks in advance.

author: joelby
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2011, 04:23:47 am
content: From the front panel, Storage, optionally change "Waveform" to "Bit map", "External" if you have a flash drive connected, "New File", enter a different name if you want to, and "Save".
Old  High-tech  RS Diode/Transistor Checker Stock 424-169 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2011, 10:00:10 pm
content: Well this is one presentation of one old but technologically very advanced design.Just have a look at the pictures, all the specifications and instructions,are printed at the bottom of it.The only complain that I have from it, its the probes,the plastics due the shape of the probe are many plastic pieces conected mostly with glue,and under pressure they divide again in pieces, and you must connect them back with super glue.I did verify the output of 4Vpp with the Fluke 28II.I do not have any of the large LED's that Dave use to test the diode test function in his reviews.But even so the specs of it, they are impressive.I was not aware until today that I had as square signal generatorat 14.87Hz 60% duty cycle +4.181 - 4.175Not to say that at DC range the bargraph of the Fluke 28II truly dances in the rythmOn AC range it shows an more stable reading of 4V .
a stupid question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: aruna1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2011, 01:45:38 pm
content: ahh I got my RIGOL DS1052E and I want to know is there any procedure for turning off this thing?is it ok to just turn off by on/off switch? I mean its kind of hard shut down right? wonder whether there are any things I need to do before pressing the off button

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2011, 02:48:47 pm
content: Quote from: aruna1 on June 08, 2011, 01:45:38 pmI would remove the USB flash drive if I had the Rigol. Look in the manual for instructions on how to do it.