Please help me choose my first ever multimeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: mrdzin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 12:07:18 am
content: My apologies if this is the wrong sub forum to ask this question.Hello everyone, let me get to the point.TL;DR:It's all come down to:_Aneng V8 | $31 shipped_Uni-T UT-139C | $40 shipped_Holdpeak HP-770HD | $31 shipped_Aneng AN-870 / Zotek ZT-219 / Richmeter RM-219 | $23 shippedI'm a hobbyish/DIY/Home Self-Improvement kind of guy. I often fixing things around the house my self, and i'm a very curious person with passion for technology/electronics. i've decided to get a multimeter a few weeks back, at first i thought it would be as easy as picking a new light bulb but oh boy, have i ever been so wrong. I've done a lot of research in the last 2 weeks on the matter and have a few potential candidates.First of all is my budget, i can only spare $50 (i'm broke, hence the "DIY Home Self-Improvement", please don't judge), or MAYBE up to $65 total for 2 meters but the second one must be a few months later. A lot of people here always suggested to have more than 1 multimeter, is it absolute necessarily for resident use? Should i get 1 half-decent $50 meter, or 2 low quality $25 meter? (or even 1 $40 and 1 $10 perhaps). If I buy anything, I wanted it to last. I’d rather go out of my way to get a decent one than get a crap one that broke after 5 uses.-My main use is DIY stuffs with batteries, probe some PC components out of curiosity, and occasionally fixing some basic electronics around the house with 220v main power line (which i've done a lot in the past with just a live-wire test pen and a rubber boots).-Low DC current and voltage reading is a must-have.-Must be able to read uA DC-Temp probe is highly considered.-6000 counts up is nice to have.-NCV is a Must-Have._Auto-Range, obviously._True RMS is a Must._Tiny pocket meter is a No-GOHere is the list of some multimeter i've done some research on that can be delivered to my place (i live in south-east Asia, amazon and eBay is a no-go, maybe AliExpress, but i prefer Shopee and Lazada, those sites may not be familiar to western countries but are convenient here)._Holdpeak HP-770HD| $31 shipped | I like the bulky- full-size body. And can be used as a 600A clamp AC/DC current with the HP605A attachment for extra $15 (Do i even need 600A? Or for more accuracy in lower range 60A with HP605C for extra $35, too expensive!). Temp, NCV, 2 ceramic fuses, 6000 counts, bar-graph, input safety caps, solid input plug, ok-ish continuity test, Auto-backlight, eh?_Holdpeak HP-770HC| $25 shipped | Not much different from the 770HD except it can read lower AC current and voltage? Why is it cheaper though?_Uni-T UT-139C| $41 shipped | Temp, NCV, only 1 ceramic 600v fuse, 4 MOV & 2 PTC for input protection, double wall plastic cover, 600 counts, solid input plug, average continuity test._Uni-T UT-210D| $39 shipped | Temp, NCV, Clamp type (which I kinda like cause it’s convenient), only 2000 counts, tiny pocket meter._Richmeter RM-219| $26 shipped | Bulky- full-size body, Temp, NCV, 19.999 counts!!!, 2 small ceramic fuses rated at 250v, little-to-non input protection, excellence continuity test with Probe Master/ above average with default leads, but I don’t like the split-metal input jack.Some other that got disqualified but I would like to hear your opinions:_Zotek VC17B+ | $19 shipped | no NCV, little-to-non input protection, split-metal input jack, poor continuity test, glass fuses._Uni-T UT-61B | $38 shipped | no NCV, split-metal input jack, 4000 counts, only 250v fused._Uni-T UT-61E | $52 shipped | high priced, no Temp, no NCV, split-metal input jack, only 250v fused._Uni-T UT-136B | $17 shipped | no Temp (?), no NCV, split-metal input jack, 1 ceramic % 1 glass fuse rated 250v, below average continuity test._Richmeter RM-303 | $22 shipped | no Temp, I’d rather go for the RM219 for this price range.Honestly, I don’t even know what I need in a multimeter. So, it would be nice to have some advice for what’s suited in my case.Thank you all for reading, I appreciate any suggestions and inputs.

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 12:46:07 am
content: To have a 'real' electronics low current capability, you HAVE to have a uA range. If you want to do house wiring then NCV is probably a must. The Aneng AN8008 doesn't have NCV but has uA, the AN8009 has NCV but no uA (I think). If you want 'quality', the Fluke 17B+ has uA and is well made but lower accuracy but 1% is fine for most things.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 01:25:07 am
content: You can get inexpensive standalone NCV testers so I wouldn't factor that into your decision process. Besides, you don't want to use most of those meters on mains voltages anyway. For doing electrical wiring around the house it's rare that you actually need to measure the voltage - an NCV tester is usually suffices.Consider that you'll want two meters eventually - one for voltage and another for current.A clamp meter that can measure DC current is very handy, but it's not going to be as accurate. I have a UT210E and use it when I'm happy with 100 mA resolution - but I'm wary of trusting it at higher resolutions. I think it's a good choice for a third or fourth meter.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 04:08:07 am
content: Aneng V8:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33009371206.html

author: snoopy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 05:20:27 am
content: Check out the Aneng 870. It's a great deal. I had to do some uV measurements the other day and this meter really came in handyANENG AN870 19999 COUNTS True-RMS Auto Range Digital Multimeter NCV AC/DC Meterhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/ANENG-AN870-19999-COUNTS-True-RMS-Auto-Range-Digital-Multimeter-NCV-AC-DC-Meter/283414069397

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 05:33:23 am
content: Quote from: snoopy on September 02, 2019, 05:20:27 amIt's an excellent choice and I think it's the same meter as the Richmeter RM-219 that's already on his shortlist (many of those meters have rebrands by other companies).It's not as bulky or full-bodied as the V8 though.

author: snoopy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 05:39:48 am
content: Quote from: Fungus on September 02, 2019, 05:33:23 amOnly 8000 count vs 19999 for the 870. Didn't dave do a review on this meter and said it wasn't that good because of the power consumption of the back lit display draining batteries etc.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 05:46:38 am
content: Quote from: snoopy on September 02, 2019, 05:39:48 amCounts aren't everything. The 870 crams many functions into each range so you have to select with the dial then press a button to get to the function you want.The V8 is large enough to have a separate dial position for every function. It also has space for many functions that the 870 doesn't have, eg. battery testing.Quote from: snoopy on September 02, 2019, 05:39:48 amThat was the Q1, not the V8:The Q1 only has two batteries because of its compact size. The screen fades quickly as voltage drops.The V8 is much larger and takesthreebatteries. The higher voltage means it doesn't have the screen problems of the Q1.Edit:This reviewof the V8 says:"Backlight fades slowly with falling voltage, display is nearly unreadable at 2.5V"2.5V from three batteries means the batteries are at 0.6V each (ie.totallydead) before the display is unreadable.In the case of the Q1: 2.5V from two batteries means the batteries are at 1.25V each (ie. almost new) when the screen reaches the unreadable state. Dave is correct to complain about that in his video, it's a fatal flaw.

author: 001
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 07:41:08 am
content: Quote from: mrdzin on September 02, 2019, 12:07:18 amOh boyI really need to begin new tread like "help me choose my LAST multimeter"But I`m intersted in new DTM0660 meterhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-for-2019-uni-t-ut89xd-meter-teardown/

author: Datman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 08:40:48 am
content: Uni-T UT-61E has an extended frequency counter range: 220MHz! I've read the frequency of a FM transmitter.

author: mrdzin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 12:00:44 pm
content: Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on September 02, 2019, 12:46:07 amThank you for your reply, i didn't realize i need the uA range. The AN8009 does have uA. But some reviewer state that those have very poor build quality? For $20 range, can i just get the Aneng AN870 / Zotek ZT219 for $23 as they're way more feature packed?Quote from: ledtester on September 02, 2019, 01:25:07 amWould you recommend some budget NCV tester? I can only go as high as $10 for this. Some Bside's review i watched in that price range is really crappy.Quote from: Fungus on September 02, 2019, 04:08:07 amThank you, the V8 look like a solid deal, it's literally have every functions a multimeter can have (this actually a bad point for me, consider the price) . I can get it for $31 shipped.Quote from: snoopy on September 02, 2019, 05:20:27 amThe AN870 supposedly the same as Zotek ZT219? I can get that delivered for $23.

author: tunk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 01:14:49 pm
content: You can find reviews of many multimeters here:https://lygte-info.dk/info/indexDMMReviews%20UK.htmlIf you can live without current measurements, you can get a Fluke 101 for 40 us$ on ebay.

author: larsdenmark
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 01:55:53 pm
content: If this is really your first and (so far) only multimeter then I suggest you choose whatever you can find that has "uA DC". All the other requirements should be easy to meet except for NCV, which I suggest you either skip or get a a separate "stick".If you're into measuring current then you'll surely want to read voltages at the same time and hence you need a second meter.Buy a really cheap meter now and use that to figure out what features you really need.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 08:22:01 pm
content: QuoteI would suggest the UT139 since it is the only one most on the forum agree is safe enough to use on live mains.Your list of requirements are asking too broad, you are just feature ticking!uA DC is only used for electronics development. How often would you need to measure the current draw of op-amp circuits? Or microcontrollers in low power/sleep mode. Most of the time mA or A is the ranges you would use for fixing things.NCV would depend on how often you fix mains wiring, sockets, light switches around the house. It is useful to check if a socket or switch is live BUT it is only an indication. You still need to be cautious when working with supposid mains circuit that is not live. I would always double check by measuring or plugging something in.TrurRMS - how often do you need to measure a non-sine wave AC signal? Unless you are working with AC signals of some kind, TrusRMS has no use. To be honest, if you are working with waveforms, you are better off looking at it with an oscilloscope.If I had to prioritise between the 3 features, I would pick uA DC.However, from what you say you do, I think the NCV maybe more useful to you.2 dmm is nice to have. Only really need 2 if you are doing electronics projects and you NEED to measure both V and A at the same time. If you really must have 2, get an Aneng as the 2nd meter, they are cheap but do not use it for mains work.None if the meters you have listed have a reputation for long lasting. I would bet on UniT. I have 3 of them (UT70B, UT61E and UT210E), the oldest (UT70B) is 8 years old and still going strong, with light occaisonal use.If you plan on daily/frequent use you may want to think about upgrading to a better dmm in future. Brands you should look at Aglient/Keysight, Brymen, Fluke, Gosen and Tektronics.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 09:09:09 pm
content: Quote from: mrdzin on September 02, 2019, 12:00:44 pmAdding features doesn't really cost money. All multimeter functions are just voltage measurements and Ohm's law. eg. To measure amps you pass the current through a known resistor, measure the voltage on the resistor, use Ohm's law to calculate current.The main problem with adding features is the available space under the rotary switch. The V8 is a large meter so they have a lot more space to add tracks.Check out the photos of the V8's PCB fromthat review that I linked earlier.See all those tracks? That where all the extra functions are, not really in extra components. If there's any extra components it will be 1 cent resistors for the battery-test ranges, etc.It's obvious there's no way you could do that in a pocket-size meter - there simply isn't space. eg. Here's the PCB from anANENG 8002:

author: snoopy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2019, 12:45:45 am
content: Quote from: Fungus on September 02, 2019, 05:46:38 amMuch better accuracy, ranges and resolution on the 870 compared to the V8 !

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2019, 02:20:57 am
content: Quote from: snoopy on September 03, 2019, 12:45:45 amSure, but you didn't read the requirements. Nowhere is that level of accuracy called for.V8ismore than 6000 count, has more functions (eg. it has battery test... OP works with batteries, it's dual display so you can show voltage and frequency simultaneously...etc.), it's much more "full-bodied" than the 870.Accuracy of the V8 is more than sufficient for DIY and self-improvement.Also: The numbers in those specs are "worst possible case", not obligatory. These meters are digitally calibrated and generally beat their paper specifications with no problem.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2019, 03:25:07 am
content: Quote from: mrdzin on September 02, 2019, 12:07:18 amAny of them will do. All of them get three $ signs on those reviews we've been linking to.Quote from: mrdzin on September 02, 2019, 12:07:18 amOnly you can make the final decision. Look at features and supplied accessories as well as raw numbers. Numbers and specs don't tell the full story about what a meter's like in the hand.Edit: I just noticed those reviews show the weight.

author: Corner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 12:58:05 am
content: I've personally used, UT139C and Aneng V8 out of the bunch you listed.The UT139C's build quality is great compared to other budget multimeters I've used. The rubber boot feels nice and you can rotate the dial fine without holding the meter either with it standing or lying flat on the bench. The only thing I don't like about this meter is its SLOW measurement speed. I am comparing with my other very fast meters here. If I just had one meter, and had nothing to compare against, I'd probably be perfectly happy with this meter. It's served me over a year and I have no complaint. It's got two 600V rated fuses, not one by the way.Aneng V8 has shitty build quality. I received it in perfectly working state. Then a few days later the speaker stopped working. It was sitting on my desk the whole time, never had any impact or anything. I took it apart, didn't see anything wrong, resoldered the speaker wires, and it started working again. One thing I hate about it is there are two many dial positions you can choose and the font on it is VERY small. Yes it gives you dedicated dial positions for manual and auto ranges, but do you really need the manual ones? I'm perfectly fine with pressing a "range" button for changing ranges. Overall I wouldn't get this one because of the build quality and how cheap it feels.Also the UT61E is great. If you can get this, definitely get this. It's spec is insane for the price (the blazing fast measurement speed, the AC bandwidth, peak function, resistance and capacitance ranges etc). It's got 250V overload protection on all ranges. I've tested the meter on all its ranges on 240V mains and no damage is done. This is the meter I'd get if I were to only get one meter.Others have mentioned the Aneng 8008 and 8009. I've used the 8009. Let me tell you although 8009 seems pretty accurate for what it is, it's form factor is quite a turn off. You can't change the dial switch without holding the meter, whether it's standing or lying down it's just almost impossible to have one hand operation. Also it's way to light to stay standing on the bench, any kind of pull from the leads will make it fall over. The absolute tiny fuses and input circuitry don't give me any confidence. I have made mistake where I measured mains voltage with the leads in the amps jack, but that was on my 117 and fortunately the only damage was the fuse. Yeah I'm a dumbass and I make mistakes.

author: maginnovision
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 01:04:50 am
content: For cheapo meters I've used the 870 and the 8008. I would go 8008 of those two. Both of the 870's I had were dead inside of two weeks but I've had the 8008 since it came out.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 02:42:45 am
content: I have a UT61E and I had a UT139C. Both are good meters: the UT61E has great features for electronics, but the UT139C is a very well built meter that can be used in the power outlets of the house without problems.In the price range you are looking for, the Mestek DM91A is a reasonable meter as well. it is not as well built as the UT139C, it has a slow continuity but it has better accuracy and more features.For the voltage tester, you can get a tester similar tothis one.

author: Corner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 03:01:55 am
content: Quote from: rsjsouza on September 04, 2019, 02:42:45 amI strongly advise against the Mestek 91A. I had it for a month and sold it. You can blow a fuse if you measure battery voltage for a bit too long. When I blew the mA fuse, the regular voltage measurement got affected and give inaccurate reading. It took me quite a while to figure out what was going on when I had readings that made no sense. After I figured it all out and replaced the mA fuse, all voltage measurement went back to normal. Not sure if it was just my unit or they all behave like this. Also the leads it came with had to be the worse test leads I've ever used.I always value robustness and consistency a lot in a tester. A meter like this serves no purpose in my pool of equipments. YMMV though!

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 10:18:58 am
content: I've got an AN870 (which has NCV and uA ranges) as well as the AN8008, I like them both although, if I could keep only 1, it would be the AN8008. Why? The AN8008 is more compact, accurate, and better value for money IMHO. The only upgrade I'd make is to buy a set of new leads for it. If you buy the AN870, you'll find that the NCV seems to work on the top left corner of the meter; as others have said, a stand-alone NCV is a better optionlike this one for under $3.There's alsothe AN8009(which I don't own) that looks like it's an 8008 but with NCV in place of the square wave output.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 11:48:47 am
content: Unless you are an electrician, a meter with NCV would be the lowest priority to have.I have a Fluke 117 with NCV and have only used it once or twice for DIY work around the house.Bottom line, even if you have NCV you will still double check with the probes for safety reasons.As others have said, any electronics projects will benefit from a uA current range.I also saw a meter above that only had manual ranges. In this day and age, a meter with auto ranging is very convenient. A must for me would be an auto ranging meter.

author: zelmo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 11:54:43 am
content: I had looked at Aneng and other meters on Amazon. I couldn't figure out which ones were real and which ones were counterfeit.How do you know that you are getting the real thing?

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 12:18:31 pm
content: Quote from: Corner on September 04, 2019, 03:01:55 amInteresting; this was not my experience at all. I used it quite extensively to test both 1.5V and 9V batteries (about 100 in total) and had no issues with the fuse. The leads were not great, but ok for a 10000 count meter that cost me $15 shipped.The only reason I sold it was simply to reduce the number of meters around.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 12:21:06 pm
content: Quote from: zelmo on September 04, 2019, 11:54:43 amI wouldn't worry too much about counterfeiting Anengs. They are already a rebrand from an OEM (I think Zotek).

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 12:34:04 pm
content: Quote from: Corner on September 04, 2019, 12:58:05 amSample size of 1.Quote from: Corner on September 04, 2019, 12:58:05 amYou're looking at it from a different view. If this is your first multimeter and you're interested in learning about multimeters in general then why not?Also, the manual ranges are generally much faster to display a number. Yes, you can usually select a range by pressing the "range" button multiple times on auto-ranging meters but there's something quite nice about using manual ranges when you already know something about what you're measuring (ie. what the expected result should be).

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 12:47:53 pm
content: Quote from: zelmo on September 04, 2019, 11:54:43 amNoteverythinghas counterfeit versions, it's mostly just luxury goods with high profit margins that have fakes. Anengs are sold at nearly cost price so there would be no point.The problem with buying online is with Uni-Ts. Thre's no fakes AFAIK but Uni-T make different versions of their meters that look the same on the outside but with different components inside. You might be buying one of the ultra-cheap "China-only" versions at the price of one of their "export" models. The UT-61E is particularly prone to this.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 01:01:03 pm
content: Quote from: rsjsouza on September 04, 2019, 12:21:06 pmYep. All "Aneng" meters have versions under different brands, eg. here's the "Aneng" V8 with a 'BSide' sticker on it.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32973197768.htmlI think you're right about a mysterious company called Zotek manufacturing them all, although there's no "Zotek" brand as such (there's a "Zoyi" brand but I don't know if that's Zotek's own)Here's the V8 with a 'Zoyi' sticker:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32991919797.html

author: Old Printer
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 02:05:55 pm
content: I picked up one of the Aneng 8009 meters when they first came out. Some dealer on ebay had them for about $10 shipped. It showed up in 10 days with no mfg markings of any sort. I think Aneng and a bunch of other companies stick their labels on them. That said, it is my go-to meter on the bench because it is nice and small, plenty accurate as a hobby meter. I see Bangood selling them for $30 and that seems a bit pricey, I would look for an off-label brand to save some money. Except for the label, mine matches the Aneng down to the mold lines on the case and the guts are the same any pix I have ever seen. Wish I had bought 2 or 3 of them, but at the time I thought it was a scam at the $10 price and I was just taking a flyer on one. Common sense says don't use it on mains.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 02:46:16 pm
content: Quote from: Old Printer on September 04, 2019, 02:05:55 pmI've noticed a thing with the Aneng 860B+ and variants.Mine has a sort of dull spot on the casing just below the "OFF" label. If you look very closely at the photos of the variants on Aliexpress you can see that other brands have it, too. It seems like they don't just come out of the same factory, they come out of thesame mold.eg. ThisZotek VC17B+( Oh, look Zotekisa brand after all...)

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 03:33:33 pm
content: Quote from: zelmo on September 04, 2019, 11:54:43 amI read the reviews and make a judgement call. I've also dealt with Banggood.com and had good experiences; one time I got Fake FTDI chips on some USB-Serial boards from them and they refunded my money. I am in no way connected to Banggood, just a satisfied customer.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 03:34:44 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on September 04, 2019, 12:34:04 pmA manual range multimeter that I like and have in the drawer is the Mastech MAS830L - much better build than the modern copycats of theoriginal M830B design. But that can only be considered a spare meter.Quote from: Fungus on September 04, 2019, 12:47:53 pmExactly. Uni-T uses the same model number for very different build qualities and features. That happens with the UT61 and even theUT136.Quote from: Fungus on September 04, 2019, 02:46:16 pmYes, that is what I thought as well. I vaguely recall people disassembling their Anengs 8008, 8009 and seeing "Zotek" in the PCB silkscreen.

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 03:36:58 pm
content: @Fungus.My Aneng AN870 has the same mark even though the legend around the dial is slightly different.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 04:14:46 pm
content: Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on September 04, 2019, 03:36:58 pmSo the same mold is used even for different models...