hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Eakins auto focus microscope camera  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: charliex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 08:54:26 pm
content: last night i finally got around to adding an X stage stepper to my eakins camera setup and added control to allow it to move back and forth from my pc app, so i wanted to be able to control the camera as well which usually just uses a usb mouse, so i did some stuff on it last night and today, and wrote it up.https://charliex2.wordpress.com/2020/01/05/eakins-camera-hackery-pokery-and-the-legend-of-measuretwice/i'll add the rest of the commands that it can do to the post as i find them. (just did)

author: charliex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2020, 02:32:06 am
content: I put a prebuilt app on github, i'm still working on it, but enough of it works where i can do all the parts i needed, might need some poking at negative mf positions.autofocus mode./talk amanual./talk mmove to position 200./talk p 200etc, see code for rest of commands.https://github.com/charlie-x/eakins-camera

author: charliex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2020, 03:44:36 am
content: i wanted to try capturing multiple images for a focus stack test.step from 140 to 155 and capture image each step.for var in `seq 140 155`; do ./talk p $var ; ./talk C ; donehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRmd8nV61Ds&feature=youtu.bequick focus stack result with 15 stepsfromto

author: I wanted a rude username
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2020, 11:10:03 pm
content: Thanks, now the cracks on those lead-free solder joints can make me 29% more nervous.

author: pitfermi
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2021, 11:08:15 pm
content: does the camera record 1080p @60fps on a usb stick?is there a non-autofocus version and if yes, can someone link me to it?
Favorite Metcal tip for 0.4 and 0.5mm pin spacing? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2021, 09:59:11 pm
content: For those with Metcal soldering irons....I'm curious as to your favorite tip for soldering 0.4 and 0.5mm packages?I usually use STTC-145 (.016" Bevel Solder Tip)I also like the EBM7SB275 (0.4mm 30 deg bent sharp tip), for most other relatively small stuff

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2021, 10:02:36 pm
content: STTC-036 30° Chisel 2.5 mm

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2021, 12:17:51 am
content: What are we talking, TQFP-0.4mm or? QFN?STTC-036 is what I did use. Its not as good for QFN though.On the T12 I prefer to use T12-KU, a small knife tip, way better for QFN touch up.The closest I can find is maybeM7DS035H, but, the end does not come to a sharp point as the T12-KU does.The bevel stuff might be ok too, but, 0.016"/0.4mm is crazy small, to me those small tips are almost useless unless its for modwiring. I would want say 2-3mm bevel at least for soldering.

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2021, 01:25:44 am
content: Quote from: thm_w on November 30, 2021, 12:17:51 amMostly TQFP, if I plan to hand solder QFN, I typically tweak the footprint with slightly longer pads to allow a fine tip to touch the pad. I don't have one of those knife edge tips, I'm going to get one to try, looks promising.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2021, 09:53:52 pm
content: Quote from: Jester on November 30, 2021, 01:25:44 amAdvantage of a sharp knife edge is you won't need to extend the pads very much.For TQFP I would tend to use a fat tip and lots of flux. Drag solder. eg this looks like a 3-4mm bevel tip:

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 30, 2021, 11:03:10 pm
content: SMTC-1167 or 1147 work perfectly for me
SKYRC IMAX B6AC V2 Battery Charger - Genuine - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2021, 03:38:15 pm
content: Has anyone got an IMAX B6AC V2 charger from SKYRC? Genuine, not interested in clones as they are all different.I probably spent a good afternoon looking for a reasonable charger before deciding on this one (that is like a weeks work for someone with no clue). Thought I would just point out a few initial observations here before anyone buys one.No mains or DC power switch - really inconvenient, ripping out a mains cable is horribleCharging current is out by approx 100mAMain banana socket output voltage detection approx 0.7V outShipped with 1.13 firmware which apparently has no calibration and needs updating to 1.14You also need a 6s balanced LiPo (Li-ion?) with >4V per cell to calibrateFound possible bug charging a NiHM - voltage detection drops a part volt after a few seconds chargingI assume that all the balanced charging voltage detection is out as wellIt makes a large difference on small cells. Charging a NiMH between 200-300mA when you are 30% out is ridiculous. Since I now know what to search for I've read many complaints about users damaging cells being unaware of these inaccuracies. Right now I've been slow charging to under 1.4V and then charging the last 600mAH or so capacity at about 0.25C so I can trigger the NiMH negative delta voltage detection with a little more current. Lets just say - confidence is still low at this point. The voltage and current is out all the time, it's very disconcerting.Then I find out they used cheap low tolerance resistors on the sense and balance circuit (at least in the first version of the B6). I feel like I might have just saved a few hours messing around finding this out. I have a suspicion they are still cheaping out years later and making everyone fuck around updating firmware and calibrating when it's a cheap parts problem, lets see shall we. I mean this is so far out it must be unusable out of the box on some cell types, they wouldn't be charged properly at all.But could you imagine going out and buying a 6s Lipo just so you can calibrate when it's the resistors? Thankfully I can mock up 6 cells with a lot of isolated power supply channels, but I might do it with NiMH packs (just need a few extra battery holders first). It makes sense though to not mess will calibration at all till I look inside. These aren't exactly cheap at $50 or so.I'm interested if anyone has the newer B6AC V2 version, seen custom firmware or have observed the same or checked out their resistors. According to SKYRCs website the B6AC V2 is more accurate and stable than the older version. Am also interested in board revision numbers as well, I thought this was a mature product. It might be a little too mature (drift joke heheh), will check mine as well when I crack it open.
Question about Hakko FH200-01 iron holder (or similar) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: M-Reimer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2021, 03:23:49 pm
content: Hello,can someone who owns this holderhttps://hakkousa.com/fh200-01-fm-2027-fm-2030-iron-holder-w-599b-tip-cleaner.htmlplease measure the inner diameter of the section where the iron goes in? Preferrably in metric units (millimeters).It has to be this legit Hakko holder and not the similar looking item from China. The chinese one has different measurements!I plan to use this holder with a different iron that I already own but want to know if my iron actually fits into there before I order the iron stand.Thank you very much in advanceEdit: Just to be more precise: I need the inner diameter of the section the iron slides into and not the smaller inner diameter of the end stop which stops the iron from falling through

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2021, 11:19:38 pm
content: 19.3mm at the entry, 19.0mm before the end stop, there is a slight taper.The mating part of the handle is 18.55mm
Replacing an Antex TC50 heating element - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Watth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2021, 06:09:52 pm
content: Hey there,I need to replace the heating element (EL20080) on my ANTEX solder and rework station's (760RWK) iron (TC50).I ordered the new part, and in the mean time am trying to remove the old one. The thing is after removing both screws, I could pull the cable's strain relief without a problem. But the heating element seems to be stuck.Of course, I couldn't find anything helpful on Antex' website.It could have been because I used it on quite a high temperature (up to 450°C) to melt the enamel insulation on magnetic wires and some parts got stuck against each other.So has anyone already made this part change on an equivalent model from Antex?Is there a step I'm missing, a bit to nudge, pull/push, twist to free the heating element?

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 28, 2021, 10:43:00 am
content: I seem to recall just pushing hard. I don't think there was anything else that needed to be done.

author: Watth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2021, 10:00:29 am
content: I contacted Antex, and they confirm it should simply be pulled out by holding the metal shaft. It doesn't move. The plastics may have warped...
original Quick 861DW vs WTHA1 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bigboss59
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2021, 03:37:50 pm
content: hi,I made quite some research before posting.So basically this topic is more dedictacted to people who have tried both devicesI'm a hobbyist and I would like to have some "pro quality" equipment to keep them for years. Money is not really an issue let's say but it should worth it...(I have small experience in hot air station)I'm hesitating between the original Quick 861DW (around 300) and the WTHA1 (I can get one at 700 with 3 nozzles)So far I see that the WTHA1 can do a kind of thermal cycling (up to 5 steps) where the quick can't or it will be a manual cycling (up to 3 steps)But I'm wondering if I will ever used this feature ? Do you use such feature ?Is there any good source of the quick 861DW in europe ? eleshop ?Thanks for your inputs
Good Deal on ChipQuick Silver Solder at Mouser. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Ungolian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2021, 07:52:55 pm
content: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/910-SMD3SW.0201LB$47 for a pound.It's not really a deal as much as Mouser hasn't updated their prices yet. ChipQuick changed their own prices last week, and it's almost twice what it was 2 weeks ago- $77!!https://www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=613201A pound at Mouser is the same as a 1/2 pound directly from ChipQuick!https://www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=613003There were 5 left when I bought it, someone else has since bought one, so there's only 3 left.

author: syau
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2021, 04:41:39 am
content: Quote from: Ungolian on November 17, 2021, 07:52:55 pmThanks for the sharing, only 2 left and I ordered one.

author: Ungolian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2021, 08:29:16 am
content: You're welcome. That's why I posted it. It's perfectly fine silver at a good price, and the flux is easy to clean. Hopefully prices come down in the next year or two, but if not, I'm good.
Ersa i-CON TRACE soldering station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2021, 01:10:57 pm
content: https://www.kurtzersa.com/products/electronics-production/soldering-tools/i-con-traceA new strange soldering station. Probably suitable only for factory use, where you do not want the users to set the temperature... It must be connected to a network. Unfortunately no cartridge soldering tips.https://youtu.be/unaluV-nJQU
JBC hot tweezers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: m0Rg0r
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 17, 2021, 11:50:51 am
content: I am considering buying a new JBC soldering station for hot tweezers, and have been looking at the handpiece types available. The manuals for each have almost no useful technical information, such as maximum/minimum opening width of the tweezers. I am leaning towards the adjustable ones, AM120 and AT420, as they may be more flexible. Does anyone who has both have a preference or any guidance for their intended purposes?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2021, 10:34:26 pm
content: You can see the C120 cartridge used on the AM120 here:https://www.jbctools.com/c120-cartridges-for-pa120-micro-tweezers-product-4.htmlIt looks like the largest part you'd be able to remove is SOIC8, if you have the large tips. But they are going to be optimized for say 0603/0805 type parts. You haven't stated what you plan on using them for.AM120 reviews are not so good:https://www.tequipment.net/JBC/AM120-A/Soldering-Tweezers/#reviewsSeems like they have the same issue as the Hakko RF one does.C420 tips for AT420 is here:https://www.jbctools.com/c420-cartridge-range-product-21-design-tweezer.htmlDepending on the tip looks like at least SMC and probably larger sizes.No reviews on tequipment:https://www.tequipment.net/JBC/AT420-A/Soldering-Tweezers/

author: jc101
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2021, 12:44:57 pm
content: I recently bought the AM120 and C120-006 tips, which works great for re-working 0402, 0603, and 0805 parts with ease. I added them to an existing JBC base unit.I bought them though Kaisertech, it might be worth giving them a call as they may do loan/demo units.
JTAG clones using FT2232HL and co (like Olimex's USBJTAG) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ironcurtain
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2021, 01:33:12 pm
content: Hi,I've been looking at FT2232HL based "multi" interface boards. I want something I can use for modern ARM systems but also older systems like PXA255. I've been considering the Olimex USBJTAG because it has OpenOCD support out of the box and the projects I need to rely on have configuration files for OpenOCD and that specific JTAG interface.However, I have also found FT2232HL boards in our "beloved" Aliexpress... they seem to carry an empty EEPROM though. Can these be used with OpenOCD? Do I need to flash the eeprom with something specific?It seems like a gamble for a 50% measly savings +/- and the lack of a proper warranty, but AFAIK, Olimex's JTAG is also based on the FT2232 family.

author: asis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2021, 05:32:25 am
content: https://atadiat.com/en/e-ftdi-mpsse-engine-programming-basics-a-gui-example/
Lab Thermal Chamber - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 13, 2021, 11:27:39 am
content: I'm looking for a new lab thermal chamber (often called a cooled or refridgerated incubator), willing to spend a decent bit of coin on it.Something like this Nuve ES120 that goes from -10C to 60C which seems like a pretty good range for equipment testing.Should have a window + access port, plus be on the small size. Would probably settle for 0C bottomhttps://www.nuve.com.tr/Content/resim/panel/file/NuveGenelKatalog2017ING.pdfFound a used one here, but it's $4500 usedAnyone know of a suitable one in Australia that's a bit more affordable?
KSGER T12 handle compatibilty - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jayjr1105
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2020, 09:04:10 pm
content: I have the non OLED version Hakko T12 clone iron. It's very good but I have the handle that resembles the FX800 and 900 series irons. It's a 5 pin aviation connector and I'd like to buy this one (also 5 pin aviation style)https://www.ebay.com/itm/KSGER-FX9501-Handle-T12-Soldering-Iron-ABS-DIY-Pen-For-STM32-OLED-Soldering/124185442097Would this be compatible electronically? Physically it is the same as what I have.My current onehttps://prnt.sc/ujs8s4

author: totalnoob
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2020, 01:31:10 am
content: I believe that handle has been found to get uncomfortably hot when soldering for a long period of time.Here is where I saw that mentioned. I don't know if it is true, others can speak up.https://www.rchelicopterfun.com/t12-soldering-station.htmlIf you go to Aliexpress.com and search for KSGER and open the "Official Store" (note there are 3 supposedly official stores, but only one says "Official Store") look for the handle selection, the one recommended here is the aluminum one with the green foam handle. I can't verify, I have the stainless steel handle with the black grip and do not recommend it. It feels nice in the hand, but when inserting the tip there's no positive indication you are far enough. If you push too far, the rear pops out.

author: jayjr1105
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2020, 03:08:57 am
content: Grip to tip is horrible on the one with green foam. It's the whole reason I want the blue one. Tip to grip is super short. I'll give the regular blue and black one a try for $12. Thanks for the info.

author: smile
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2021, 08:17:33 pm
content: So does the carbon handle really overheats or not?fake?
TS 100 Soldering Iron Stand - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: BecTec
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 30, 2021, 09:49:59 pm
content: Thought I would share my TS 100 iron stand - These are really handy little irons but I found it a pain on the bench and needed a good home for the iron while in use. I found an old Antex stand in the workshop and with a bit of 3D printing came up with this. Holds eight bits (inc one in the iron itself) and works a treat.

author: LeonR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2021, 12:15:08 pm
content: Can it withstand the TS100 + power cord? I've been using a cheap stand that "fits" the TS-100, but it's too wobbly and don't offer a proper grip on the TS100's body.

author: BBBbbb
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 17, 2021, 12:41:09 pm
content: I quite love this one:Not the first thing that comes to mind when you think of soldering iron stand but it's quite handy, no need to take it off while using the TS100.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2021, 12:52:54 pm
content: Fitting a PTFE washer around the top of the element makes a nice finger stop. It also works reasonably well to keep the tip off the mat and with appropriate sizing, makes it compatible with a wider range of stands....https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ts100-soldering-iron-test/msg1343465/#msg1343465

author: BecTec
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 17, 2021, 02:01:46 pm
content: It's had a lot of use with out any stability issues.
Wall mount VESA monitor arm with large vertical range - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: perdrix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2021, 05:53:01 pm
content: I'm looking for a wall mounted monitor arm that will allow the monitor centre line to be about 15" (say 40cm) to the right of the wall mount, with a fore and aft range of about 18" (46cm) or so and vertical range of about 24" (61cm) so I can move it up and completely out of the way if I need to place large test equipment on the bench). A gas strut or similar and balance adjustments would be great too.It needs to handle a 32" Benq UHD monitor that weighs about 29lbs (8.5kg) without its stand.The VESA mount points are 100mm x 100mmYour recommendations will help narrow the field a lot.David
What CNC laser for label engraving/printing? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sacentre
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2021, 11:25:54 am
content: Dear AllI hope I've got the right forum for this question. Can anyone recommend a suitable desktop CNC laser engraver for engraving equipment labels? I know nothing about these products or how to use them so I'm starting right at the beginning here.Intended applicationI often construct electronic projects and house them in metal or plastic project boxes but short of paying for commercial silk-screen printing, I have no way of producing a nice, professional looking label I can stick on the front panel with legends for the lights, switches and controls - ON/OFF, RPM, Power, Fuse, DC In etc.In the past, I've printed labels on paper using a laser jet printer and then covered the surface with a transparent self adhesive plastic laminate. Another method was to cut the label from thin aluminium or stainless then letter it with dry transfer lettering as used in silk-screen printing. I would then spray a clear varnish on the top. This method produces reasonable results but is fiddly and time consuming and isn't very durable.What would be ideal is to be able to engrave the lettering on thin aluminium or plastic - maximum size around 4 x 6 inches.I see tons of low cost laser engravers but have no idea which if any, would be suitable: - eg what laser power would be sufficient - 10w, 20, 40w etc?If anyone has experience with these devices or alternatives to suggest for this application, I'd appreciate it.TIATrevor

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2021, 11:37:14 am
content: Plastic and timber directly are easy and can be done with Diode or CO2 Lasers. Metals you can use 40W of CO2 and a marking compound like Laserbond or similar for this path. Or if you want to mark directly on metal then you are talking a Fiber Laser.Recent thread here and some linkshttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/manufacture/laser-marking-pcbs-whats-needed/msg3788606/#msg3788606You might like to have a look at some of Russ's playing with Fiber Lasers here and after this and also a huge back catalogue of CO2 Laser playings.
Xytronic 988D solder controller modification? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wildstar87
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 28, 2021, 06:01:29 pm
content: Cross posted from Projects sub-forum, let me know if this isn't proper..I've been mulling this over for a bit. I have a Xytronic 988D, which is a decent station, but I'd like to mod it, to basically use either a Unisolder, or KSGER or similar controller.I want to be able to use either the Hakko T12, or JBC 210/245 handles, so I can use quickly swappable tips, and possibly use a desoldering gun from ZD-915, or the original Xytronic DIA-60 that is already on station. The soldering iron side seems basically the same as the Hakko 907/Clones, though I'm not sure if the pinout and thermocouple are the same.The soldering iron side seems straightforward enough, it's more the desoldering side that I'm having a harder time figuring out how to implement. Since it already has transformers, and vacuum pump built into it, I thought modifying 988D would be a good upgrade of the station.Basically I'm trying to find out if the Unisolder or KSGER/Quicko will support, or can be modified to support the desoldering gun/handle. I know the Unisolder is supposed to be able to support two handles, but it's hard to find information on this, and crawling an almost 400 page thread to find this info has been difficult. The main sticking point that I can see, is setting up desoldering side for temp measurment/adjustment, since there is little information on desoldering handle calibration/requirements. The vacuum switch trigger is simple, I can just leave that connection to the original controller. I know for the KSGER type, I would have to get two controllers, one for the soldering and one for the desoldering side, but again the same issues with that.It would also be great for it to be able to be used with the original handles as well.Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!If there is some other sub-forum that this would better be posted to, let me know as well.
Samsung TV Service Menu Navigation Instructions? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: videobruce
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2021, 03:04:05 pm
content: This isNOTfor service menu access codes! Those are easy to find. Besides, their Service Manuals rarely even mention the Service Menu.But, for just how to safely navigate their Service menu once you are inside it. This includes saving changes and exiting the menu.Thanks in advance.

author: videobruce
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2021, 03:08:52 pm
content: This is for a current US model.
Advice for analog phone line to 4G gateway - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: owiecc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2021, 02:50:13 pm
content: I am looking for a reasonable gateway to connect our door phone. It uses an analog line to call people. We pay ca. €70/monthfor a landline and we can get a €3/month 4G SIM with 5h talk limit so the time has come to drop the landline. With these savings we can get an industrial grade gateway and no one is going to cry.Can you advise me on something good? A 12 or 24V supply would be nice because we have these voltages on a door phone UPS.

author: bw2341
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2021, 05:15:34 pm
content: I'm not using this type of gateway, but here is an example of the ideal device for your situation:https://ztecanada.com/zte-wireless-home-phone-and-internet/It supports 4G and VoLTE and has a built-in battery so you don't need to connect it to a UPS.However, this model is built for the Canada/USA market so it doesn't have European LTE bands. Maybe band 7 might work? Also, if you buy a used one from Canada/USA, it is very likely to be carrier locked. Even worse, they would be designed for Canada/USA analog telephones which are not the same electrically as European ones. Your door phone system is unlikely to have changeable settings to allow it to work on Canada/USA phone lines.Check with your local mobile carriers and phone sellers to see if a similar product is available. Some local wired ISP/telecom providers also market these products to serve customers outside their wired network area. You could also search for wired telephone service in your country to see if independent providers offer this type of product as an alternative to the traditional wired providers.You can also contact credit card payment, alarm system, elevator service and access control companies in your country to see if they have a industrial version of a voice gateway. They may not be willing to outright sell you a gateway as they usually charge monthly fees for their service.If you have wired Internet close to your door phone, you can also try an analog telephone adapter and paid over-the-top VoIP service.Edit: phone line electrical compatibility

author: ralphrmartin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2021, 05:07:25 pm
content: An alternative approach is to get something like a Fritzbox to connect the analog doorbell-come-phone to the internet, and use any VOIP service with outgoing calls.
Electronic Personal Dosimeter between $500-$1200 - not made in China or Russia - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Demon Core
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 15, 2021, 07:19:13 pm
content: First post here, can anyone recommend a good quality and reputable EPD for measuring absorbed dose of gamma, beta, and X-radiation? I work in a healthcare setting (Nuc-Med and Fluoroscopy) so this would be to complement my TLD dosimeter. Caveats are that it must not be made in China or Russia and must be able to detect a wide energy range.So far I am considering these:MGP Instruments/Mirion DMC3000 (Gamma & X but measures beta with optional module):https://www.mirion.com/products/dmc-3000-electronic-radiation-dosimeterFuji Electric Dose-i (Gamma and X only):https://www.fujielectric.com/products/radiation/personal/dosei.htmlThermo Scientific EPD Trudose (Gamma, X, and beta):https://assets.thermofisher.com/TFS-Assets/CAD/brochures/epd-trudose-brochure.pdf

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2021, 07:44:00 pm
content: Can you expand on your worries?1) Your employer provides what is needed for OSHA and beyond.2) What isn't made in China today? Why does that worry you?

author: Demon Core
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 15, 2021, 07:59:49 pm
content: Not worried about the radiation I'm receiving through my line of work. This is just for educational and somewhat novelty purposes as to whether any radiation is penetrating through the roll up shielding and how far scatter radiation is reaching. We also use O-arms at our facility and I'd like to see what dose I would be getting standing within the OR suite.Plenty of products are still not made in China. I am aware that components are sourced all around the world now but generally the stuff made in Germany, Japan, USA, etc. tend to be of much higher quality with better QC, componentry selection, testing, and after support.AFAIK, TLD dosimeters don't provide me with real-time dose readings and logs. It will be fun, informative, and educational to all!

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 04:24:27 pm
content: It's not a critical question, but does your application require sensitivity to beta radiation as well as x-ray/gamma photon radiation?If your only x-ray exposure is to diagnostic x-rays (< 200 keV, say), then neutrons are not a problem. Neutrons are generated, however, with radiotherapy equipment above roughly 6 MeV x-ray output.

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2021, 07:14:14 am
content: The ones we use at work are the thermo-fisher epd's. Gamma is our main interest.
A good stand for T80 soldering iron - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: robdejonge
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2021, 05:25:16 am
content: For the last few years I’ve been using a Miniware T80 USB soldering iron. The display has died but it otherwise works fine. One thing I find inconvenient is the lack of a nice stand.I’m not quite ready to upgrade to something heavier, but as I was watching reviews on some of the currently popular Chinese stations I stumbled upon something nice. This one made, I think, for a T245 handle. (edit: not sure the image uploaded correctly, seehere)It made me wonder if anyone has solved this challenge for the T80. Sure I can put it down on my bench, or use all sorts of $1 solutions. But I’d like a nice stand for it.
HIGH Temperature Solder Pot / Bath - HELP! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SteveR
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 14, 2021, 01:14:19 pm
content: Hi All,I have an application where a PTFE equipment wire is brazed to a bundle of enameled coper wires (enamel mechanically stripped back for termination).The jointing process is currently completed using a flame torch (oxy propane) to heat the leads/wires up before feeding/melting the brazing filler to for the joint. I would like to investigate a hot dip process using a high temperature solder pot.The challenge is that the melting point of the filler metal is 644-800 Deg C!Is anyone aware of a high temperature solder pot with the ability to consistently achieve and maintain this temperature?I look forward to receiving your inputs.Steve

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2021, 05:30:18 pm
content: its probobly considered really hazardous because you can dip something in the flask of molten metal (it would need to be a flask probobly with inert gas flood to be decent and not oxidized) and accidentally flick molten brass at something (like dipping a broom into water and striking it), quite a bit more impressive and flammable then lead splatter, since thats glowing.. regardless if its human or not you have a higher splash potential with really bad resultsI can't even imagine it because my experience with torch brazing is tons of fumes from proper operation..https://www.hitempbrazing.com/what-you-should-know-about-dip-brazinghere it says you need a molten? salt dip prior to brazing too.here is a videothe salt tank and the equipment used looks like a general hell hole compared to a torch, some rods and a can of flux. i recommend you don't go to this method unless scale demands it. It probobly smells like shit and fumes alot and splatters and has you inhaling salt aerosols. normal brazing a rag and a pale of water is enough to clean up the excess flux and dross, with that setup it looks like you need 2 200 pound gorillas manning dust pans for the same effect lol. and look at the ridiculous gear they need to wear.

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2021, 01:11:22 pm
content: Bonjour SteveR: We had lots of use of solder pots and also wire welding for TC use back to 1980s.No solder pot is designed for 644-800 Deg C. See the commercial pots ranges, normal RoHS or leaded is 230-270 deg C. NOT designed for soldering not your application.Depending on the wire guage we would suggest to spot weld rather than braze.We did that on type K thermocouple wires to form TCs many times.Much safer and neat joints re the solder pot/braze you suggest.Bon chanceJon
[Solved] Gophert CPS-3205 - is it safe to connect two of these in series? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: AudioNoob
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2021, 10:22:51 am
content: I have a Gophert CPS-3205 bench switching power supply. I want to have some fun with DIY power amplifier, for which I want to buy a second Gophert PSU (probably a newer model, but the exact same is also an option) in order to connect them in series and obtain a dual rail +/- supply. But is it safe to do so?

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2021, 10:55:32 am
content: Should be, as long as it doesn't have the -ve connected to mains earth. Just checked teh one I have here and doesn't appear to be.You may want to put a reverse diode across the output of each one to avoid any issues of back-powering if only one unit is on

author: AudioNoob
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2021, 11:31:29 am
content: Thank you!Could it still be connected through a capacitor or some other non-trivial circuit? Or have you checked for that as well?Great idea with a diode. Two diodes, one on each of the leads towards the common (center) point, right?

author: bmac_2780
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 14, 2021, 06:46:18 am
content: Read your owner's manual.I have the 1620 model and it says you can series up to 500 Volts. So 2 in series shouldn't be a problem

author: AudioNoob
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2021, 07:54:42 am
content: Quote from: bmac_2780 on October 14, 2021, 06:46:18 amWow! My unit is an older generation than yours, but has the exact same section in the manual. Thanks!
Which wireless repeaters or powerline data links are reliable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2021, 08:28:23 pm
content: Hi,If i want to connect back to a houselhold router 24/7, from an electrical equipment, using a powerline data link or a wireless repeater....then....Which brands of these are reputable/reliable?We are seeing a lot of them drop out.they are then difficult to re-connect.They connect to the equipment via an ethernet port.Its just for a fairly small amount of monitored data...just bits and bytes, not images.

author: nali
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2021, 08:50:57 pm
content: From my own limited experience:TP-Link - absolute shite. I had a Powerline WiFi extender which crashed every week or so. Replaced factory Powerline firmware with user-contributed firmware fixed the Powerline disconnects but the AP still bombed every month or two. I doubt I'll ever buy anything from them again.MikroTik - good & cheap. Been using a hAP ac lite for a little while now as a Ethernet-Wireless bridge and have hardly scratched the surface of RouterOS but looks pretty impressive for the price.
Broken Rigol DS1052E power switch, replacement? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: manisteinn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 13, 2012, 03:01:52 am
content: When replacing the fan on my Rigol DS1052E I forgot to remove the power switch cap before taking off the back cover, and the shaft snapped in half.I'm having a hard time finding a suitable replacement, any tips on what to search for?The specs I'm looking for (correct me if I'm wrong) are SPST, through-hole, angled switch rated at 250VAC, but the only thing I've found so far isthis(no stock)Here are some pictures of the PSU PCB and switch, any help is appreciated.

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2012, 10:38:04 am
content: Quote from: manisteinn on March 13, 2012, 03:01:52 amTwo-component epoxy resin adhesive is not an option, should all else fail?

author: vtl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2012, 12:15:33 pm
content: Quote from: manisteinn on March 13, 2012, 03:01:52 amSimilar thing happened to me, I desoldered the switch and the internals of the switch come apart pretty easily by prying the retaining tabs. The plastic shaft had broken. If I had superglue I would have used that but I ended up just welding it back together with my soldering iron.

author: Chet T16
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2012, 04:26:40 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog-specific/changing-the-rigol-ds1052e-to-ds1102e-using-usb-the-dummy-guide/msg45414/#msg45414

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2012, 07:12:09 pm
content: Quote from: gazelle on June 12, 2012, 09:45:01 amWhoaaIf that is for a full scope it's quite cheapIf it's for a switch.../Bingo

author: lordnitro
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 11, 2021, 11:43:31 am
content: I did the same mistake now 9 years later, I found a good replacement switch "KDC-A10-1-C" which can be found with ease on both ebay and aliexpress. Just posting in this old thread if someone else encounter this issue and is looking for a replacement switch.
T-862++ after using dont turn on the IR lamp until cool down - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: alemmat
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 01, 2021, 08:22:50 pm
content: Hello everyone, all good?In my new job there is an infrared, the T-862. They have this machine for while, but dont give much use. As I have experience soldering smd components with hot air, i am trying to figure out how to use the t862.But every time i turn off the IR when i try to begin a new cycle the IR dont turn on until the entire machine cool down.Some one have the same issue?Sorry my englishMy best regards
Anyone using Butynol rubber roofing membrane as their bench mat? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kiwibum
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 23, 2021, 04:37:20 am
content: I've search eevblog forums and can't find any references to any one suggesting Butynol rubber roofing membrane as a substitute for anti static matting.I have seen Butynol recommended on another site and interested to know if anyone here is using it for their bench mat.I had a small piece to test (5mm x 100mm), the black side is conductive, less than 1M ohm with basic multimeter probes close together, the grey side won't measure anything even with Megger tester at 1000Vdc. My understanding is the membrane is conductive due to the carbon used to make the black colour. The membrane is also very heat resistant to solder temperatures.It appears it would be suitable as a bench mat, I'm wanting to know how suitable it would be as an anti static bench mat and if anyone here has been able to test that. It is available near me at a local hardware store by the metre where anti static matting is special order at twice the price plus shipping.

author: Tarloth
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2021, 05:05:40 am
content: I'm very interested in your or others experience in anti static matting alternatives.

author: kiwibum
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 23, 2021, 10:26:15 am
content: I have no experience with alternatives for anti static matting. I'm getting back into electronics and setting up a new workbench. My last one was just a wooden top and I used an anti static strap. In the 80's when I was doing electronics servicing, mainly TV and Audio, again we just had wooden work benches and static straps. The guy working on computers was the only one with a static mat, mainly because everything was pulled out rather than being able to work on boards in place.I want to use a mat this time to help protect the bench top from solder burns AND reduce static since this new bench has a melamine top. I've seen mention of people using Butynol/butyl rubber as an anti static mat, but none of them included any measurements or more useful information other than it was conductive, which it is on one side.What I want to know, is the grey non-conductive side "dissipative" (I think that is the correct term) for static? My megger measures to 1.2G ohm (1.2 x 109), and set at 1000Vdc there is no measurement on the grey side which I'm assuming this isn't "dissipative" but would like confirmation from someone more familiar with measuring this type of thing.Quote from: Tarloth on September 23, 2021, 05:05:40 am
Hacking Kawh 8586D Hotair Station to use A1321 Heater. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: firepower
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 10:09:42 am
content: I modified a Kawh 8586D hotair soldering station to us the A1321 Thermistor heater (50W) instead of the original A1322 Thermocouple heater (30W).I have reversed engineered the Soldering Iron op-amp circuit for measuring temperature using A1322 thermocouple going to micro controller. Op-amp is LM358 going to ST8L152 micro controller, both using 3V3 suppy.To modifiy it to use A1321 Thermisor heater add a 10K resistor in parallel with R17 (6M8) and a 4K7 or 10K resistor in parallel with R20 (27K).Cal needs adjusting after doing mods. Set to 400C and adjust Cal until LED reads the same value as Tip.Heats up now in 45 sec instead of 2 minutes and 45 sec.I dont understand why the circuit is using a 22uF capacitor before it feeds the micro controller? Other similar circuits dont have this capacitor or if they do its only 0.1uF. I also ended up changing the 22uF to 0.1uF.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 11:08:28 pm
content: 22uF is a bit big, especially with the 10k.Maybe they are trying to completely filter out the power switching on and off to the heater? If you don't sequence the ADC read at the right time it can give quite a large offset.Surprised a thermocouple can handle those high temperatures.

author: firepower
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2021, 03:34:27 pm
content: I ended up changing the 22uF capacitor to a 0.1uF capacitor. still works ok.I looked at a lot of circuits on google for ST8L152 and none used capacitor in the ADC circuit.Regarding Calibration, it work fine for high temps but is out of CAL at low temps below 200C.but 200C is the lowest temp you can set. at room temp 35C it shows 135C but it normally shows --- when below 100C anyway.This error is most likely the software being programed for thermocouple curve instead of thermistor curve.All my soldering is above 350C and I much happier with faster heat up and more powerful heater. 50W vs 30Wthermocouple normally used is a K type and a Nichrome coil heater for A1322.
how good is conformal coating remover? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2021, 02:02:08 am
content: https://www.techspray.com/video-guide-to-removing-conformal-coatingSo this stuff is pricey at 80$ a can. I have been using xylene on q-tips, and it works great, but it removes the silk screen.. so I need to typically engrave over it and paint it on.Has anyone tried the techspray confromal coating remover and can attest to its value?https://www.techspray.com/conformal-coating-remover-4Kind of expensive for just THF. I thought maybe to just buy a bottle of pure THF instead? Does it have secret ingredients that make it really good? I thought it might be a useful solvent to keep around in pure form anyway.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2021, 10:34:26 am
content: I've used the THF stuff before (different product but likely same formulation) and it doesn't harm the PCB or ICs, and effectively softens acrylic based coating.(If it's silicone based coating, you're more or less SOL, IIRC?)Is xylene actually strong enough to remove epoxy paint?Or was that a cheapo or old/unusual board that it removed it from.Tim

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2021, 02:16:05 pm
content: its some goo off a miller welder PCB from the year 2000. It says varnish in the manual but it feels gummy.. I don't see any similarities to transformer varnish or wood varnish, if it is varnish. I would call it a clear rubber coating. Feels more like hot-glue (its somewhat more ductile) or silicone then anything else I can think of. Like the strips of glue you can peel off clear plastic blister packages..The way I do it is I use a dripper bottle to pool xylene around the solder joint I want to rework then I scratch it up with a wooden stick and then after it sits in the pool for a little bit , absorbing xylene and swelling. Afterwards I use the dripper bottle to coat a q-tip and then I buff the area with the q-tip until the q-tip has too much goo drapes on it, then I use another one. When I am done it looks clean but the silk screen under the components (i.e. diode orientation), gets damaged because parts of the letters flake off. Afterwards I clean with a q-tip with iso.I bought a bottle of THF to try since it was way cheaper then that stuff. If it does not work I will look into that stuff since THF is still a useful superglue remover.
Purchase AU detachable socket plug assembly FEMALE - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jancelot
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2021, 09:56:51 pm
content: Hello folks, I want to buy the female socket for mains, that has screws so you can open it up to put the copper lines inside. I only find the male counterpart. Would be extremely helpful if you can tell where to purchase the female, preferably international shipping like AliExpress or eBay. It can be 2-pole or 3-pole, it's basically for phone chargers. I think it's type AS/NZS 3112.Example:Australia standard 16A/10A 250V Three-pole power plug Detachable plug Assembly AU connection plug With switch & LED lightBlack EU 16A 250V Korea Russia France Germany Grounded Industry Assemble Wired Power Cable Connector Female Male Socket PlugBlack white 90 degree elbow connector 250v 10a 16a french Russia Korea Germany Thailand power cord wired cable plug

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2021, 11:25:10 pm
content: https://www.bunnings.com.au/hpm-10-amp-3-pin-extension-cord-socket_p4330120

author: jancelot
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2021, 10:08:57 pm
content: Quote from: BradC on September 11, 2021, 11:25:10 pmParcel - $10–14 for AUD6, I not even considering worldwide. Any AliExpress or similar item?