Using force as last stage of desoldering? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2014, 09:24:21 pm
content: Is it a bad idea to use some pulling, prying, pushing, as the final stage of desoldering?I removed a double stacked USB jack and couldn't clean it up enough to be able to remove it without some tugging in multiple directions. Maybe the wick wasn't that great, but I think it would be a problem anyway.

author: AmmoJammo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2014, 10:21:42 pm
content: Its generally how I always remove components.Things like through hole ICs in old computers (namely the Commodore 64)Wick as much solder off as I can, then push the ic from side to side, to break the small amount of solder left, or push each pin from the top and bottom to break the solder.Very rarely will I remove or damage any pads or tracks using this technique.

author: Prime73
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2014, 10:49:35 pm
content: I usually add extra solder to cover pins on one side on a component and keep the solder melted with an iron and then pull one side of a component off a board.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2014, 11:07:32 am
content: Once I had a 40 pin IDC type connector that I desperately needed. I desoldered all the pins with the solder sucker. But that sucker didn't come out, somewhere it was always stuck. So I went to the tool case, and I took the tool which is rarely used by the engineer: The hammer. The connector was out (perfect condition) five seconds later.The other people in the office looked at me funny though. So yes. If the job requires it...

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2014, 11:28:36 am
content: Generally yes, you do need to add some force when desoldering.But it doesn't take much force to rip pads off the pcb along with the IC, so it's a balancing act.If you have a proper vacuum desoldering gun however, then force isn't needed as you're able to get all the solder out so the chip just falls/lifts out.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2014, 09:29:36 pm
content: Once I thought solder wick was the best thing since sliced bread, but now I rarely use it.I find a plunger type solder sucker will do most all I need.I will second the process thatAmmoJammodescribes along with a selection of different solder types.Low temp varieties and different flux types, all leaded of course.Often I remove all the easy to get solder, then add new to pick up the remaining stubborn solder.Lead free can be troublesome but I find my process can get through holes quite clean.The further advantage of adding a low temp solder is to reduce the iron temps required, which reduces the likelihood of PCB damage.We learn a lot from repairs and salvaging components on how to design and build PCB's for easy service/repair.Larger holes especially for anything with more than 2 leads makes for easy repair.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2014, 03:00:55 am
content: same as prime for me, (well similar) for small through-hole stuff, i cover the rows of pins in big globs of solder and by switching back and forth it happily pulls straight out,for bigger things (think Motorola 68000 CPU, a 64 pin wide format DIP) i tend to preheat the board on both sides around the chip with my hot air gun, to actually pack heat into the component and board, then focus it on just the pins and it lifts out just fine,

author: theatrus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2014, 04:16:03 am
content: I've hung, via clamps or adhesives, something heavy (wrench, solder spool, etc) from the part while heating with hot air.

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2014, 09:31:52 pm
content: Quote from: Prime73 on July 04, 2014, 10:49:35 pmDo you do that with multipin parts as well?Quote from: tautech on July 05, 2014, 09:29:36 pmNo problems with the final thin layer of randomly spread solder? Seems more difficult to vacuum because you need to be right on it, plus fully flush on the board.QuoteWhat different fluxes, and to what end?Quote from: Rerouter on July 06, 2014, 03:00:55 amAny specific target temperature?Quote from: NANDBlog on July 05, 2014, 11:07:32 amThe question is, what about the board?Psi: I don't do it often enough to warrant buying a desoldering gun. But I wonder if those cheap $10-15 things might still be useful.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2014, 10:05:22 pm
content: This is a chinese knockoff of a Soldapullit they work excellent.http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GT-Cool-Antistatic-Vacumme-Desoldering-Pump-Sucker-Solder-Irons-removal-Tool-CA-/161347449557?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item25910eb2d5As with any tool you need to practice, try removing 20 chips and you will get the hang of it. Remember solder is your friend. Retin, resolder, suck always in that order. Push on the pin (sideways) after sucking to ensure it is free, if you don't you may pull out the thru-hole.If you can afford it a board preheater is a fantastic addition to any shop and help during reflow and removal.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2014, 06:34:34 pm
content: get yourself a hotair, no need to suck any solder when you can melt all of it at oncepulling is fineifyou know where to pull, otherwise you can rip legs, break plastic and take off whole pads