Make Electronics book 2nd edition components list? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2019, 05:53:22 pm
content: UPDATE: I have created a list which you can find here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/make-electronics-book-2nd-edition-components-list/msg2690322/#msg2690322I'm wondering if anyone knows of a parts list/cart at any of the major U.S. suppliers (Mouser, Digikey, etc.) for the Make Electronics 2nd edition book. I have already made my own list from the book in plain text, but if there is already a cart at Mouser, for example, that could make things much easier, even if I decide to get some of the components from elsewhere. If not, I guess I will be making one to share.Also, is there a downside to metal film over carbon comp resistors? I see lots of inexpensive metal film assortments on ebay. I don't really see any assortments on Mouser. And I have read that it is best to buy transistors and ic's from a reputable supplier (because of counterfeiting), and to get passive components from elsewhere to save on cost. So I'm thinking of getting some passive assortments from ebay and filling in any missing values at Mouser along with the active components.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2019, 07:13:11 pm
content: Metal film resistors are better. Far more stable.If you want a reasonable selection of mostly trustworthy parts, use Tayda Electronics. They sell 1/4W metal film resistors in packs of ten so you can just buy as many as you need of each value and they are really cheap. Only buy the Royal Ohm ones as they are decent quality - the unbranded ones are shit. Also avoid the ebay selections - they are full of weird values or are the worst quality they could muster with hair thin legs.https://www.taydaelectronics.com/

author: dnwheeler
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2019, 07:47:08 pm
content: You can get a complete component kit in a case on Amazon for the 2nd Edition.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2019, 08:18:48 pm
content: There seem to be two suppliers of kits - Chaney Electronics and ProTechTrader.Here are the product pages for the Chaney Electronics kits which lists their contents (see the referenced PDF files):https://www.electronickitsbychaneyelectronics.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CM1001https://www.electronickitsbychaneyelectronics.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CM1002https://www.electronickitsbychaneyelectronics.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CM1003The ProTechTrader product page is not as detailed:https://www.protechtrader.com/Make-electronics-component-pack-1-2nd-edition

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2019, 08:21:19 pm
content: I wouldn't buy packs of stuff like that. They're overpriced and at least half of my time with electronics is hunting down parts so practicing that is good too

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2019, 08:31:55 pm
content: Quote from: scatterandfocus on September 11, 2019, 05:53:22 pmIn the case of the 2n2222 transistors, I wouldn't worry about getting counterfeits from ebay. Most small signal bipolar transistors are interchangeable with each other - at least for beginner type applications - and they are not likely to get damaged during shipment due to poor packaging.See also this recent thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/why-use-2n3904-vs-2n2222/

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2019, 05:00:12 am
content: Quote from: bd139 on September 11, 2019, 08:21:19 pmThat is my line of thinking on it. I was aware of those kits from ProTechTrader and Chaney before writing up a components list. And I can see those kits having their place, but they aren't for me. Finding out something about, where to acquire components, qualities and specifications of component types, manufacturers of components, is good stuff to know for future projects.

author: ryanb9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2019, 05:26:50 am
content: you can get kits on amazonhttps://www.amazon.com/EL-KIT-008-Project-Complete-Ultimate-TUTORIAL/dp/B01EWNUUUA

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2019, 06:52:19 am
content: bd139, thanks for mentioning Tada. Their site is easy to navigate, they might end up having most of what is on my list, prices and standard shipping are low. I might have to add some various other components to my cart to play around with, too.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2019, 04:12:02 pm
content: I ran into some missing capacitor values at Tada (book says that either electrolytic or ceramic are ok for all caps): 15uF, 68uFFor sake of getting all the caps in the same place (possibly saving on shipping cost), and since this is non-critical beginner breadboard stuff, I think it should be ok combining two caps that add up close to the required values such as:6.8uF + 10uF = 16.8uF in place of 15uF47uF + 22uF = 69uF, in place of 68uFIt seems that this shouldn't be a problem since the book says that all caps should be at least 16V and other ratings are of no concern, which I also assume includes tolerance. The book calls for electrolytic and ceramic caps, saying that it doesn't matter which are used but that it is recommended to use ceramic for values below 10uF because of price. Any way, Tada has neither electrolytic or ceramic for these missing values (15uF and 68uF), but they do have tantalum values that could be added to electrolytic values. It seems a bit odd to do that, and I don't know if it would cause problems. Maybe I will just get these missing values (and other missing components) elsewhere. But I'm still wondering if there should be any problems mixing various types of caps. And I'm just curious to look at analog signatures of different types of caps on an oscilloscope.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2019, 05:09:46 pm
content: Just so others know, this stuff takes a while. I have probably put in around 10 hours so far in making a components list and adding maybe 1/3 of the list to my cart. But that includes looking up various component specifications and reading other useful information along the way. I can see that this is going to be maybe a 3 or 4 day project. But if I just bought kits, I wouldn't be learning anything about the components that I am choosing.Also, I ran into a couple more components that I can't find at Tada. Single AA battery holder. I am substituting for a double AA battery holder and will use a jumper for a single battery. Low current LED's (forward current of 3.5mA or less).Once I clean up my components list so that it is more legible for others, I will add it to this thread along with notes about missing values, substitutions, and such.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2019, 06:03:34 pm
content: Quote from: scatterandfocus on September 12, 2019, 04:12:02 pmThere shouldn't be any problems mixing capacitor types.And don't sweat the capacitor values. They are at best 5% parts anyway.QuoteLED technology has vastly improved over the years. They have become brighter and much more efficient. Instead of the conventional 330R resistor for driving an LED with 5V I now routinely use 1K. 10mA used to be the norm for driving LEDs, but in my experience all recently produced LEDs will illuminate adequately at just a few milliamps.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2019, 06:36:04 pm
content: Quote from: scatterandfocus on September 12, 2019, 04:12:02 pmThis is all typical annoyances and you’re approaching it the correct way. When I design anything I spend a hell of a lot of time doing parts optimisation to try and keep things to the E3 (10 22 47) values where possible so I don’t have to buy and keep a lot of parts in.As for mixing capacitors don’t worry about this to start with. Only thing to worry about is getting your electrolytics and tantalum capacitors the wrong way round. When you progress you’ll learn about what caps to use where. There are some simple rules to follow.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 01:22:52 pm
content: I just noticed that I have been typing Tada instead of Tayda. Doc said my eyes are good. Where can I get glasses for my brain?ledtester, I only see LED's on Tayda with either 20mA or 30mA forward current. It's no big deal, as I'm sure that I will have to order some components from at least one other place. But I do prefer getting the bulk of the components from a single source to save on shipping cost and so that I don't get 50 packages in the mail. The mail lady already hates me after my recent round of buying old analog boat anchor test gear. She already pretends sometimes to have attempted to deliver stuff (leaves it in her truck) so that she doesn't have to carry it to the front door, and I have to go pick it up the next day. If I keep it up she might start making my packages disappear.bd139, is E3 a common term / design principle, or is that a personal thing?

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 01:34:51 pm
content: Sounds like Royal Mail hereE-series is defined here better than I can :https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E_series_of_preferred_numbersI mostly optimise my designs because I don't want to have to go shopping every time I come up with a design. I just want to hit the bench and build it! Turns out with some head scratching you can make some careful compromises and still come out with perfectly functional circuits. A good piece of inspiration is from Ashhar Farhan who designed an entire SSB transceiver with this in mind. Literally very few different parts (line items) required:A good exception to note above is that there's 1x 120K resistor in there. They are all 5% tolerance so you can just shove a 100k and 22k in series which are both E3 series. To make compromises like that rather than having to hunt down a 120k resistor is very very productive.From a manufacturing point of view it makes things simpler still.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 02:32:37 pm
content: Quote from: scatterandfocus on September 13, 2019, 01:22:52 pmGo with their "super bright" leds - there's a review which says they work well at 2ma. The "luminous intensity" is an indication of brightness and efficiency. The "20ma forward current" could be a maximum. Get a couple of each and you can get a feeling of what the intensity rating means in terms of visual brightness, driving current, etc.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 02:39:54 pm
content: Here's a discussion about the KENTO 540URC LED which suggests the "20ma" rating is a maximum:https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113742.msg1053874#msg1053874

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 03:13:08 pm
content: Thanks much bd139 and ledtester. See, if I just bought kits I wouldn't have interacted with other knowledgeable people and found out about these sorts of things.Looks like I'm going to have to find the DIP CMOS 74HCxx stuff elsewhere. Tayda only has a couple of these part numbers:74HC00 2-input NAND74HC08 2-input AND74HC32 2-input OR74HC02 2-input NOR74HC27 3-input NOR74HC393 counter

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 03:47:43 pm
content: I would just get them at Mouser or Digikey - their prices are roughly the same as Tayda's and you'll get genuine chips which will be well packaged.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 03:50:08 pm
content: Get the extras at Mouser for sure.For ref, the Tayda ones come in anti-static foam and bags usually. Never had any problems with fake parts. I think they sold some hooky 1N34A's a while back and that was about it.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 04:04:13 pm
content: A quick look on Mouser isn't showing any DIP packages for the 74HCxx stuff. Jameco has everything except 74HC27. Digikey has everything for around the same prices. Thanks ledtester. The total for all the Texas Instruments 74HCxx chips (DIP CMOS) is $5.80 (not including tax + shipping), and that is with two parts each. The book requires 1 each but suggests getting 2 each in case of failure.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 04:19:10 pm
content: Everything is going surface mount now. It's worth buying some adapter boards from China and soldering the SM packages to them. It's not at all hard and saves a lot of cash

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 04:23:32 pm
content: "SN" is just a prefix TI puts on their 74HCxx chips:https://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Logic-ICs/Logic-Gates/_/N-581znZ1yzvvqx?P=1z0z63x&Keyword=74hc00&FS=TrueThe suffixes "E4" and "N" refer to other manufacturing characteristics like RoHS compliance, lead- (or not-lead) free, etc.

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 04:36:42 pm
content: Quote from: scatterandfocus on September 13, 2019, 04:04:13 pmMaybe that look was a bit too quick then? While the selection of 74 series chips has shrunk over the years (no matter in in which package), those which are still available are also available in DIP packages. And of course Mouser has them too:https://eu.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Integrated-Circuits-ICs/Logic-ICs/_/N-6j77x?P=1z0z63xZ1z0y3hmZ1z0xt33

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 05:11:45 pm
content: Quote from: bd139 on September 13, 2019, 04:19:10 pmI will add them to my list of things to buy. Thanks.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 05:12:26 pm
content: Looks like there are no single digit 7-segment displays available from Tayda. Digikey has lots of them but not the recommended part numbers from the book:Avago HDSP-513A (preferred)Lite-On LTS-546AWCKingbright SC56-11EWAWhat I notice about the recommended part numbers:10-DIP (0.6", 15.24mm) packageCommon cathode or common anode (doesn't seem to matter)They are ordered according to power dissipationThe book specifications are:0.56" digital height (this shouldn't matter at all)low current red2V forward voltage5mA forward current (same situation as for low forward current LED's mentioned in a previous post)Meeting all the requirements, only Kingbright parts were available at Digikey. I chose the Kingbright SC56-11SRWA, which is common cathode.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 05:13:57 pm
content: Quote from: ledtester on September 13, 2019, 04:23:32 pmQuote from: ebastler on September 13, 2019, 04:36:42 pmYep, I missed that. The book covers that too, but I forgot about it.Being that I am buying the bulk of parts from Tayda, I think I will make up carts at both Mouser and Digikey to see how much things add up to. I don't expect to see a great difference, but maybe there are other considerations to think about, such as availability of all required parts from either store.I also noticed that I missed some components from the book when making my list. I will have to double and triple check over that, else the results could be disastrous, such as paying maybe $10 more in shipping! But I'm around 3/4 way through finding the components on my list so far (with lots of extras) and my total is around $35 (not including taxes and shipping). But wire alone will be another $15-20. And I think that I don't need any tools mentioned in the book, as I already have them. I do expect that the grand total will be under $100, which sure beats those kit prices, where multiple kits are required. But more importantly, I am finding out lots of small things along the way about choosing various components.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 05:42:33 pm
content: Being that I will save some money over buying kits, I think I will add some components to my list to tinker with or burn-out:Various sensors, such as thermistors, photoresistors, piezos, hall sensors, ?Power transistors, heatsinks, opamps, ?D flip-flops, multiplexers/demultiplexers, ?Any interesting component suggestions for a beginner and supporting components welcome.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 06:13:39 pm
content: I’m not sure the scope of the book but I’d run through them on topic to start with and then worry about that. Many years ago I didn’t do that and ended up on numerous tangents which were expensive and time consuming.Once you’ve done those books it’s worth looking at Learning The Art of Electronics which is a little more advanced. The analogue section in that has a few design and build projects which are pretty good such as a light wave audio link and PID control of motors etc

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 06:18:46 pm
content: In this thread I put together a Mouser order for a collection of "classic" op amps.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/where-to-buy-opamps-and-other-useful-ic-assortment-kit-components-in-the-usa/msg2664363/#msg2664363They are kinda expensive from Mouser, and if Tayda has them for cheaper I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them.Almost everything Tayda sells is of interest / fun for the hobbyist. At $.10 a piece why not buy a couple of thermistors to play around with?If you want to prioritize your purchases I think you'll find more beginner-level applications / circuits that involve opto-electronics, and that means parts like:- photo-transistors- IR leds- LDRs - light dependent resistors- IR receiver/demodulator module- optocouplers / photo-interruptorsCheck out Tayda's optical sensor page:https://www.taydaelectronics.com/sensors-transducer/optical-sensor.htmlHave a look at the circuits in this book, and it'll give you an idea of what other components you might want to get:http://www.n5dux.com/ham/files/pdf/Forrest%20Mims%20-%20Optoelectronics%20Circuits.pdf

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 06:28:27 am
content: bd139, admittedly I haven't had time yet to look over all the projects in the book. But from what I gather, the general scope of it is to give the reader some familiarity with some basic circuits and constructing them (analog and digital) and ending at doing some basic stuff with an arduino. It seems to be a sort of bird's eye view and primer of general electronics. There probably isn't anything terribly exciting in it, but I figured that to get going again with electronics I should jump back to the beginning and have some fun with it. I took some electronics classes years ago and very little of it was hands on, mostly theory, very rushed, and poorly directed. And it put me off from continuing with electronics since. I figure I will approach it this time like a curious kid, and I wish that this sort of book existed back when my interest in electronics originally sparked. I do have old copies of the Art of Electronics (text and student manual), but it is way over my head at this point. And it was way over my head when I picked it up some years ago. But you know, I picked it up a week or so ago just to have a look, and it didn't seem nearly as alien as I remember it being.Ledtester, I will take a good look at the optical stuff, which I hadn't really considered other than wanting to get a couple of photoresistors to look at lcd display pwm frequencies and for just playing around with. I didn't know that phototransistors even exist. I'll look over that thread and the Mims book.Thanks.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 03:03:54 pm
content: Continuing on with the component gathering today, I couldn't find a suitable relay at Tayda. The requirements are 9VDC coil, DPDT. Highly recommended part numbers (because of pin layouts) in order:Omron G5V-2-H1-DC9 (preferred)Axicom V23105-A5006-A201Fujitsu RY-9W-KThe Omron is part # is $3.18 at Digikey and Mouser. 2 required.Also, no high-impedance earphone available form Tayda, Digikey, or Mouser.And no neodymium magnets available at Tayda. I didn't find any magnets at Mouser, but maybe my searching wasn't effective. Digikey has lots of them starting at $0.23 each. The book suggests K&J Magnetics for magnet info and purchase:http://www.kjmagnetics.com/neomaginfo.aspFurther reading about the projects using magnets, one experiment uses a 3/16" by 1.5" magnet and 200 feet of 26 gauge to 22 gauge of wire. Another experiment uses a 3/4" by 1" magnet and 350 feet of 26 gauge magnet wire. Another uses a 5/8" by 1" magnet and 500 feet of magnet wire. I think that these experiments aren't really worth the cost of the supplies. The experiments amount to dropping magnets through coils of wire to light led's and to charge a capacitor. This also reaffirms that I should glance over all the projects in the book to find out if some of the experiments are trivial enough to cull some components from my list.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 03:21:15 pm
content: 9v relay and high impedance earphones?! Who the hell wrote that book?!?9v relay you can use a 6v with a series resistor. You’d have to experiment with the value.High impedance earphones are dead and gone. You can get the pink things still on amazon and aliexpress etc but they barely work properly.I’m going to get the PDF of this and have a look.Amazon sell those magnets as well I think.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 03:56:33 pm
content: bd139, see updated post above.I think that any author of a beginner electronics book such as this one would do good to think about component counts and costs for design of the example circuits. From that mindset, I think that the components list could have likely been whittled way down while still effectively getting the points of the experiments across. Maybe part of the design of this book is in the selling of kits. I don't know, really. But just as an example, by the point in the book that these magnet experiments come up (experiment 27) transistors have been used and it seems that a circuit involving a transistor could have been used for amplifying the effects of very small and cheap magnets passing through very small coils. Or the same using the LM386 opamp in an experiment just a couple of experiments later.As an example of experiment cost in this book, dropping a magnet through a a coil of magnet wire could cost around $30-40.Cue the Asian father:Why so expensive?

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 04:28:33 pm
content: On use of the high-impedance earphone, a couple of pages later in an 'Enhancement' section it is suggested that if you have a problem hearing anything through your earphone to try using a piezo. Why not just use a piezo in the first place? It seems to me that a piezo or two would be good to have on hand any way for general vibration sensing, although I don't see piezo's listed in the components or used elsewhere in the book.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 04:39:50 pm
content: Quote from: scatterandfocus on September 14, 2019, 03:56:33 pmIt's from the Make lot which was all about making money so you're probably right. You're learning though which is a good thingI tend to push people towards Earl Boyson's "Complete Electronics Self-Teaching Guide with Projects". PDF here:https://gurusaiprasanth.files.wordpress.com/2015/10/complete-electronics-self-teaching-guide-with-projects-honest.pdf

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 04:59:06 pm
content: A good source of neodymium magnets are old hard drives:https://youtu.be/uSjxLH7vWUMFor a cool way to power an LED (also see attached pdf):For the relay, as bd139 said, a lower voltage relay (e.g. 5V, 6V) can be made to work. There's no need to get them from a first-line distributor. New old-stock relays will work just fine for your projects. Even pulls from old equipment will be fine.If you want to experiment with generating electricity with moving magnets, just look for a DIY dynamo project such as:https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Dynamo-Easilyorhttps://youtu.be/BFvjqZTCqP4

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 05:14:46 pm
content: Quote from: bd139 on September 14, 2019, 04:39:50 pmI have ran across that book a few times. One thing about it is that reviewers mention lots of errors and poor organization. I can't speak on that, but the publisher does have an errata, breadboard photos, and a complete parts list here:https://www.buildinggadgets.com/complete-electronics.htmIt does look like an interesting 'adult' electronics book. I guess I worry a bit about the mentions of poor organization, as well as the mentions in amazon reviews about Vine reviews being used to inflate the book rating. On that last point in general, it is a hell of a world that we are living in today, where trust and integrity seems to have gone out the window in favor of appearances and profits. This applies to all products and reviews today, where reviews can be used to manipulate the numbers for making poor products look good and good products to look bad. And that further applies to everything today, not just products. For that reason, I tend to not put too much weight into product reviews, much preferring to have back and forth discussion.Have you read through this book? If so, what did you think of it? I could see the requirement for an oscilloscope and signal generator being a turn-off for some people. But I'm ass-backward in lots of things, so I acquired an oscilloscope and signal generator before even buying any components to start in on constructing circuits. My reason for doing so is that I tend to like to look at things I am learning pretty thoroughly (to my own satisfaction), and I figured that having an oscilloscope and signal generator would allow me to get a good look at everything along the way, even if it isn't 'required' to do so. That was one issue I had with taking classes at the local college. There was no time for asking too many questions, doing hands-on experiments, and just generally thinking outside the box of textbook explanations.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 06:24:22 pm
content: Errata is almost always necessary. The same is true even of some of the more trustworthy books, including Learning the Art of Electronics which has an errata list a mile long! One of the killers is some of the publishers don't produce errata or care if the book is incorrect. Pearson are well known for that. I don't expect 100% correctness but I do expect the author to care about it and publish this externally.As for Amazon reviews, you're right. It's a minefield. Fortunately there are people out there working on that:https://www.fakespot.com/On the book itself, you're right about the thing being a turn off for a lot of people. A scope and function generator is minimally required to get a feel for things however and I'm not sure I could do without mine at all on a daily basis. On top of that is a power supply. Eventually you end up with an absolute pile of test gear and join the TEA thread.I did indeed read through the book. The contents are pretty good. They give you a more intuitive feeling for the parts you are using which is a good foundation for The Art of Electronics. But it stops dead at the end of basic analogue electronics. There is no digital in it at all.I'd really like to see some material that sits in the gap between "I know nothing" and "Learning the Art of Electronics".I had a sit down earlier and scanned through the Make Electronics book and honestly though it's pretty good and probably fits in that gap nicely. I'd avoid sticking too rigorously to the exact parts and specifications and see if you can improvise in a few places as well. They seem to want to illustrate something in a very rigid way but I probably wouldn't stick it it (and blow something up in my face but that's how some of us learn)

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2019, 06:40:06 pm
content: Quote from: bd139 on September 14, 2019, 06:24:22 pmMy loose plan is to go through the two Make books, and then go through another book that I found titled 'Essence of Analog Electronics'. I haven't seen that book mentioned anywhere, but after running into it and giving it a good look over it seems like it will be worth the time. Although, there are no project examples, parts lists, or anything like that. I may end up checking out the book you mentioned instead, after the Make books. And I do have what seems to be a good digital text titled 'Digital Electronics' by William Kleitz. I found it after looking through an instructor's bookshelf while I was taking a digital electronics class. The text that we used was miserably bad, having so many errors and organization issues that the class and instructor nearly completely ditched it. The instructors had no real say in the choice of textbooks, though. The instructor of my DC class did pretty much completely ditch the textbook, pulling from photocopies of materials that he had collected over decades from various sources. He was the only good instructor that I had there, and he told me that he was requested to return to the school after retiring to help get students primed into the school's other electronics classes and programs (the old trick of a first good chapter or two in a book, with the rest being crap, but using a good instructor instead). Poor textbooks was a major issue with taking classes there, too. The director over the electronics classes and programs did a piss poor job of selecting textbooks. No wonder everyone in their electronics programs was failing exit exams. Any way, I found the explanations in that book by Kleitz to be much better than the class text, and I bought a used copy for myself for a couple of bucks after completing that class in case I ever wanted to go back to re-learning that topic. It might be pretty dated by now, though.I suppose the Art of Electronics book tries to fill the gap between an all theory-based textbook and a hands-on book. It's too bad that there aren't other books out there that try to do that on the level of absolute beginners.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 04:47:41 pm
content: Anyone know a place to get unplated perfboard? What little I see of it on Digikey and Ebay is a little pricey. I suppose that plated perfboard would do just as well though.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 05:52:08 pm
content: Parts Express has some more reasonably priced bare perforated board. I think I will just get some plated perfboard from Tayda for now, though.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 09:03:29 pm
content: I think I'm about done with getting things together (wheww!). That was about 4 days of looking things over, discussion in this thread, searching, and shopping.Here is my edited list obtained from the tables and paragraphs in the back of the book and by looking over some of the projects where I felt it to be necessary. A few odds and ends will likely still need to be obtained (such as small sections of pvc pipe), but this at least gives someone an idea of the bulk components list. But I could have missed some components. If anyone notices any issues, please let me know so that I can update it.Neodymium magnetsMight be prohibitively expensive (maybe consider experiments using these as optional)K&J Magnetics suggested in U.S.; Supermagnet.de popular in EuropeCylindrical, 3/16" diameter, 1.5" length, axially magnetizedQuantity of 1Cylindrical 3/4" diameter, 1" length (minimum dimensions), axially magnetizedQuantity of 1Note: A neodymium of these minimum dimensions is expensiveNote: Also see OPTIONAL COMPONENTS SECTION below on 5/8" by 2" magnetWireSolid core 22 awg (solid core 22 awg automotive wire is acceptable)At least 2 colors (prefereably 4 colors)75 feet in 3 colors (25 feet each color) recommended if not doing inductor experiments200 feet required if doing inductor experiments (different colors can be joined temporarily and later reused)16 guage 50-100 feet preferred (solid or stranded)Note: 16 guage only required for antennae in experiment 31If cost is prohibitive, optionally use 50-100 feet of 22 guage wire on hand (antennae results may suffer)25 feet raw hookup wire recommended for making breadboard jumpers; See Breadboard section of this listNOte: Also see OPTIONAL COMPONENTS SECTION below on magnet wireTest leads1" alligator clips at both ends12-15", no longerat least 3 red and 3 blackAlligator clipsCopperNote: Used as small clip-on heatsinks when soldering componentsSolderLead or lead-free rosin core0.02" to 0.04" (0.5mm to 1mm) diameterAt least 3 feetHeatshrink tubingAssortment of 3 or 4 small sizes, considering wire guages that will be usedBreadboardIdeally 700 points, single or dual busQuantity of 1 required, but get 2 or 3 if budget allowsWhatever jumpers you like (Dupont wire, jumper kit, diy from 22 guage solid wire)Resistors1/4 watt10% accurancyAny manufacturer10 of each value471001503306801k2.2k4.7k6.8k10k47k100k220k330k470k1M20 of this value470Note: Metal film is ok for all resistorsPotentiometersFull-size 1K1" preferred, but down to 1/2" acceptableOther parameters unimportant (shaft size, voltage rating, etc.)Quantity of 2Trimmer potentiometersSingle-turnMultiples of 0.1" spacing (2.54mm to 2.5mm)1 value each500k100k20k or 25kThermistorsVishay 01-T-1002-FP recommendedSubstitutions should be 10K NTC-type rated at 1% or 5% accuracy with wire leadsCapacitorsAt least 16VDC (higher is ok)Any manufacturerRadial (for values 10uF and up)10 of each value10uF5 of each value100uF220uF2 of each value15uF22uF68uF1000uF1 of each value33uFCeramic (for values below 10uF)5 of each value0.022uF0.047uF0.33uF1uF2.2uF3.3uF10 of each value0.01uF0.1uFNote: Electrolytic, ceramic, or tantalum are ok; can add values and mix types for hard to find valuesBatteries9Valkaline or rechargeable9V connectorquantity of 3 recommended (for leaving attached to various circuits)1.5Valkaline only` quantity of 21.5V AA battery holder (for 1 battery)quantity of 1Power supplyUniversal recommended (3V, 4.5V, 5V, 6V, 9V, 12V DC); 9V DC is acceptableAt least 500mA ratingPlug will be cut off, so plug type doesn't matterFusesNote: Book errata correction from 3A to 1Ahttps://www.oreilly.com/catalog/errata.csp?isbn=06369200318261AVoltage rating unimportantAutomotive blade type preferredAlternatively, 2AG fast blow cartidge fusequantity of 2Toggle switchesIdeally panel-mount type with screw terminals (pins or solder lugs acceptable)SPDT or DPDT is okOther parameters unimportantQuantity of 2Tactile switches2 pins 0.2" (5mm) apartQuantity of 8Slide switchesSPDT3 pins spaced 0.1"EG1218 by E-switch or NKK CS12ANW03 recommendedother parameters not importantquantity of 2SemiconductorsDiodes1N4001quantity of 8-101N4148quanityt of 8-10Germanium diode (no part number specified)quantity of 1LED (generic)5mm or 3mm leads (5mm easier to handle; 3mm fit in tighter spaces)typical forward voltage of 2V, typical forward current of 20mAquantity of 6LED (low current)3.5mA or less forward currentquantity of 15Note: See discussion in this thread about low current LED'shttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/make-electronics-book-2nd-edition-components-list/25/7-segment displayLED type0.56" heightLow-current red preferred; 2V forward voltage, 5mA forward currentAvago HDSP-512A preferred, or Lite-On LTS-546AWC, or Kingbright SC56-11EWA, or similarquantity of 3Note: See above discussion about low current LED'sTransistors2N2222 or PN2222 or PN2222ABlack plastic or metal casing is okNote: P2N2222 or P2N2222A are NOT acceptableNote: Use DIP packages, any manufacturer, for the following (also called PDIP, DIP-14, DIP-16, through-hole)LM386 (amplifier)LM7805 (voltage regulator)74 series logic (TTL chips not recommended)74HC00 2-input NAND74HC08 2-input AND74HC32 2-input OR74HC02 2-input NOR74HC27 3-input NOR74HC393 counterquantity of 1 each required (buy at least 1 extra of each in case of failures)4062B counterquantity of 3555 Timer (TTL version, also called bipolar, NOT the CMOS version)quantity of 4RelaysOmron G5V-2-H1-DC9 highly preferred because of varying relay pin layoutsAlso Axicom V23105-A5006-A201 or Fujitsu RY-9W-K are suitable9VDC DPDTQuantity 2SpeakerSmall, cheap, 2" minimum (will be destroyed)No specifications in the components list at back of bookNote: At least 1 experiment specifies an 8 ohm 4" miniumum diameter speakerArduino UnoR3 or laterBook recommends to buy genuine Arduino to support development//------------ OPTIONAL COMPONENTS SECTION BEGIN ----------------------------------Magnets5/8" diameter, 2" length (books states excellent results using these dimensions)Note: A neodymium of these dimensions is expensive (optional experiment using magnet wire below)Wire25 feet strandedGeneral use for flexible connections; no guage specified; no projects specifiedMagnet wire (optional experiment, using 5/8" by 2" neodymium)26 guage500 feetNot mentioned in parts list but mentioned in an optional experimentCylindrical 3/4" by 1", axially magnetized, quanity of 1Note: Experiments using neodymium magnets involve dropping magnets through wire coils to generate electricityMight be fun, but maybe not worth the materials + shipping costHeaders(IS optional)Example parts numbersPerforated board(SEEMS optional)Unplated 4" x 8"Note: Might be hard to find and expensivePlated, traces same pattern as breadboardNo quantity specifiedMachine screws(SEEMS optional)#4 size flat-headed3/8" and 1/2" sizesWith nuts with nylon insertsNo quantities specifiedProject box(SEEMS optional, but book says that it is essential)Abs plastic6" long, 3" wide, 2" highQuantity of 1High-impedance earphone(also called crystal radio earphone; seems optional)quantity of 1Note: Book says that a piezo might work better here//------------ OPTIONAL COMPONENTS SECTION END ------------------------------------Locally found itemsGalvanized angle brackets1"Quantity of 4Note: Pipe straps and hanger straps are an acceptable alternativePolypropylene or nylon rope10 feetLemon juiceUndiluted, unsweetenedDeionized water (distilled water)Tools(Some required; some recommended)MultimeterSafety glassesANSI Z87 ratingAvoid tinted glassesLong-nosed pliers5" end to endFlat inside jaw, not roundWire cutters (also called side-cutters)Flush cutters (optional)Wire strippersSpecific sized holes for wire guages22-guage recommendedLow-Power soldering iron15 wattPlated, slender, conical tipGeneral-duty soldering iron30 or 40 wattSoldering iron standDesoldering equipmentHelping handMinigrabbersHeatgunMiniature Saw and handle#15 X-Acto blade preferred#234 or #239 can be used for cutting perforated boardDeburring toolright-handed and left-handed are availableE300 means that it is intended for soft metals and plastics

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2019, 09:43:21 pm
content: Funny thing when hitting that reply button. All the mistakes suddenly appear out of thin air.I should have only added the necessary components for the book to my carts and then shared the carts, but I ended up adding extra quantities and other components as I thought of them, so the total increased over what the book calls for. And I opted out of buying some things such as neodymium magnets, 16 gauge wire, magnet wire, machine screws and nuts, bare perforated board, plastic project box, and 8 ohm 4" speaker, so the total is less overall less than what the book called for. But given all that, my Tayda cart ended up at $78 including DHL 3-4 day shipping ($11 for shipping to U.S.), and my Digikey cart ended up at $31 including 3 day First Class Mail ($5 shipping), for a grand total of $109.

author: ryanb9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2019, 05:39:08 pm
content: Quote from: scatterandfocus on September 11, 2019, 05:53:22 pmIn the book he says that he has links to kits that correspond to his books you can buy. I would just do that if i were you.

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2019, 05:55:49 pm
content: Quote from: scatterandfocus on September 11, 2019, 05:53:22 pmOr you might add this newfangled thing called a "link" to your original post:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/make-electronics-book-2nd-edition-components-list/msg2690322/#msg2690322

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2019, 06:03:32 pm
content: Quote from: ryanb9 on September 17, 2019, 05:39:08 pmTo me, using kits seems like throwing out part of the hands-on experience of doing electronics. Sooner or later you will need to find parts, look up information about parts, ask lots of questions, find out how much various parts should cost, and so on. Also, I was able to get significantly more parts for the money by gathering them myself, including 2 each of all logic IC's, which I think the kits don't have. If one of those IC's dies, possibly just by handling it, kit buyers will have to put things on hold, find the part, pay for shipping + component cost, and wait some days for it to arrive. And some components are so inexpensive and commonly used that it just makes sense to get some extras. But a person buying a kit wouldn't know that.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2019, 06:06:08 pm
content: Quote from: ebastler on September 17, 2019, 05:55:49 pmUpdated.

author: ADJohnson
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2019, 07:13:03 pm
content: I worked through both these books and they are good for introduction to electronics, which is what they are aimed at. The author was very good at responding to queries as well. I also tried the ‘buy it myself’ approach, for many of the reasons others have stated, and stopped doing that, just buying the kits from TechTraderPro: the difference in the price is not a lot - maybe about £10, I can’t remember - but the time it was taking going through search results, different suppliers etc was doing my head in. Just not worth it. For book 2 I did go the separate parts route because, IIRC, there weren’t any kits. One thing to bear in my mind though is that some of the experiments require parts that are just not available anymore (except maybe on eBay at ridiculous cost) so you have to adapt the experiment to parts you can get. It’s also worth reading the experiments (scanning at least) to see if it is worth getting a part just for that one-off, use, that you are not likely to use again. I skipped the build of some and just read and understood them. Overall, I would recommend both the Make books for beginners. You do not need any fancy test equipment, just a multimeter and basic soldering iron. If you think you will carry on with the hobby, buy a decent multimeter and a temperature controlled iron to save money in the long run. Do not buy scopes, generators or any other test kit for these books.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2019, 06:07:43 am
content: I wouldn't tell anyone not to buy kits if you want the easiest time of getting the necessary components, such as parents buying kits for their kids. But let's be realistic about what you get in those kits and prices of the kits.The Protechtrader kits require 3 kits to get all the necessary components. The kits come in 'standard' and 'deluxe' options. The kits are vague about what you actually get (quantities and no brands indicated for anything), and it seems that you get a minimum of the required components. In other words, it doesn't look like you are getting spools of wire (wouldn't fit in those boxes), multiple of same IC's, and so on. The standard kits 1, 2, and 3 are $80, $80, and $66 respectively for a total of $226. The deluxe kits are $98, $98, and $80 for a total of $276. In the deluxe kit 1 you get a super cheapo multi-meter. In deluxe kit 2 you get a super cheapo soldering pencil and a 9v adapter (no brands indicated). In deluxe kit 3 you get more wire and an upgraded magnet (no specifics). For $226, you could get double the components and a meter and iron that aren't embarrassingly bad from elsewhere. For $276 you could get the same but get a temperature controlled soldering station instead of an iron, or whatever you like with that extra $50.The kits from Chaney are a much better value. There are 3 kits at $50, $17, and $35 for a total of $102. But again here, you are getting a minimum of components and no brands indicated. You will have to buy other things such as a meter, soldering iron, batteries, but you can get items of a quality that you won't want to throw in the trash, for not much money. For example, $10 for a meter and $10 for a soldering pencil from ebay will make that stuff that comes in the Protechtrader kits look like tools that came out of a cereal box.And beside price, at least Chaney gives you itemized lists of what you are getting.But with ~$100 shopping around, you can get a significant amount of extra components or use some of the money to help in buying a decent meter, iron, and other required components.On these kits, I feel like Protechtrader is milking buyers, who are probably parents buying this stuff for their kids. Chaney seems reasonable for this sort of situation where parents won't know how, or want to do the leg work in buying components. But for someone who is able and willing to do the work of finding components, I don't know why anyone would recommend kits instead, especially since there is now a list of what is required.