hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Long lines, voltage level translator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2019, 09:08:25 am
content: Hello, I need to interface a 3.3v bidirectional bus to a 5v system over long cables (around 15cm - 6 inches).I used a txs0108e.I have an extreme level of ringing/reflections, which never stops once it triggers, and the system does not work at all.I tried with a 100 ohm series resistor, but it makes no difference.It seems there are other people having this problemhttps://e2e.ti.com/support/logic/f/151/p/619173/2281846#2281846?jktype=e2ehowever the part suggested there is for a unidirectional bus.Do you know any parts that could serve the purpose (possibly without the need to have a pin for the direction, but as a last resort, that would be fine as well).

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2019, 11:11:14 am
content: try to put odd wires (or even) in the ribbon cable to the ground. For example: GND, SIG1, GND, SIG2, GND, SIG3, GND.Theoretically it probably will stabilize it's impedance, because in such way it will works as symmetrical transmission line.If your circuit works with RF signals and doesn't depends on DC, you can use 1:2 impedance ratio RF transformer (1:1.5 voltage ratio).

author: SparkyFX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2019, 11:44:42 am
content: Quote from: fabiodl on June 12, 2019, 09:08:25 amHave you tried termination resistors or pull-up/pull-down for that matter?Is twisted pair wiring an option?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2019, 01:17:38 pm
content: Don't use those things, they're a hack and a gimmick. If you need a bidirectional bus, use control signals to set data direction (e.g. most old-school parallel buses), or double the number of lines and use fixed transmitters and receivers.6 inches is not a "long line", I don't have any problem with running 3.3V logic over that, board-to-board, as long as, for example, ribbon cable with alternating grounds is used (as mentioned above). Given some limitations of course, but that shouldn't be terrible for commercial purposes anyway.If the risetimes are sharp (a few ns or less), use source or load termination resistors, or both; if both, consider a line receiver like 74HC7014, or anything comparable. (You may need comparators to get a reliable logic input threshold, but in that case, consider LVDS receivers -- they are quite capable RRI comparators in their own right, and cheaper than the fully-spec'd alternative).Tim

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2019, 01:08:25 am
content: Thank you everybody, I tried individually sleeved cables (from a vga cable), but that was not sufficient.It is indeed a parallel bus, at around 4Mhz. I am now thinking of trying a ‎SN74LVC8T245
long-range bar code reader using video camera - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: harikreshna
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 28, 2011, 10:46:07 am
content: hope you can help me with my project, its about long-range bar code reader using video camera not lasercode39 will be consider. Can you give me any ideas on how can i finish my project? please send me any kind of reference that could help.. thanks guys

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2011, 11:41:24 am
content: OpenCV vision library may be a good start

author: joelby
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2011, 09:02:22 pm
content: You could try looking at open source QR code readers to see how they work.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2011, 03:06:33 pm
content: Many decoders libs read jpgs and other image files. Just make a regular camera that can zoom into the code, take an image, preferably not so lossy or loss less [ i..e, png] as to distort it, then pass it to the free routines.http://www.onlinebarcodereader.com/

author: harikreshna
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 30, 2011, 01:57:43 pm
content: anyways, thanks for the repliesi appreciate it.

author: PetrosA
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2011, 11:47:17 am
content: Just out of curiosity, what do have in mind when you say "long-range?"
long tail pair calculations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ntetlow
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 05, 2022, 10:19:51 am
content: Hello,attached is an ltspice of a basic amplifier. I have been trying to verify the formula for the collector current of Q1, a formula Ifound in the web articlewww.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/differential-pair.Basically it states that Ic(Q1) - Ic(Q2) = (Ic(Q1) +Ic(Q2)) * tanh(V(nodea) - V(nodeb)) [please see attached schematic].------------------------------2 * VtThe tanh value approximates to its own value for small values.Anyway, sorry about the poor syntax, I found it difficult to put into writing.Please could someone have a look at the problem, I haven't been able to prove the formula myself.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2022, 10:43:52 am
content: What have you done to attack the problem so far?What equations do you have for the transistors?Do you know the definition of tanh(x)?FYI, equations are usually written out in text with the generous help of parenthesis:Ic_Q1 - Ic_Q2 = (Ic_Q1 + Ic_Q2) tanh( (V_A - V_B) / (2 Vt) )(I think the underscores better represent the symbol of "Q1 collector current" than what also looks like "collector current, a function of Q1"). Or we have MathJax enabled here:\[ I_{c(Q1)} - I_{c(Q2)} = \left( I_{c(Q1)} + I_{c(Q2)} \right) \tanh \frac{V_A - V_B}{2 V_t} \]Tim

author: ntetlow
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 05, 2022, 11:36:57 am
content: Thank you Tim.On the schematic I have placed measurements to help solve the problem..meas w pp (Ic(Q1) - Ic(Q2))/2 should give me the current difference ( ac from zero to peak)..meas y pp (I(Re))/2 should give the sum of ic_1 and ic_2..meas x pp (V(nodea) - V(nodeb))/50 should give the voltage difference divided by twice the Vt at 25mv/v. Ive just realsised that the dividing factor should be 100because of the zero to peak value.Using these measurements I should be able to verify the formula.
Long term measuring: Use a Hantek6022BE? or does an Arduino do the job better? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: matmay
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2014, 10:08:54 am
content: I would like to use the oscilloscope for measuring long term voltage changes. But I can't find any way to use either the open software or the official one to show long term changes with the Hantek6022BE.How can I use the oscilloscope to show battery discharging curves?I've also got an Arduino, which can do the same, but I want to use the oscilloscope...Thanks for replying!
Long Transistor leads - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: MapleLeaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 01:19:51 am
content: I have a few old-new stock transistors, JAN2n718a, that have very long leads.Why the long leads? For point to point wiring?And why does it come in a plastic tube? As far as I can tell, these are not special transistors.These came from a company that does military and commercial air craft.The picture also shows a plastic pn2222 transistor for comparison.

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 03:08:02 am
content: Maybe that particular transistor had a certain application where that was necessary? Surely not all transistors came with that long a lead. Having it come in a tube tells me it was hand-selected as part of the process.Having said that, I'm from Japan and I recall germanium transistors in 80s that we had, had far longer lead than what we get on 2n2222. But not THAT long.

author: MK14
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 04:26:07 am
content: With older stuff, PCBs were not always available or used.E.g. Tag Strip construction.So, non-PCBs, sometimes needed the very long leads.Example picture:

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 04:36:40 am
content: Mil hardware was often point-to-point or spot welded. I'm sure there's a spec somewhere for component lead length.Tim

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 11:40:59 am
content: Years ago they also made a big deal out of soldering heat reaching the transistor and damaging it. You were supposed to grab onto the lead with a pliers to stop the heat. Lead length allowed that to happen. Probably some truth to that way back when. Now we toast the crap out of them.

author: schmitt trigger
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 02:07:05 pm
content: Quote from: Seekonk on September 20, 2018, 11:40:59 amExactly!Germanium transistors were specially vulnerable.I remember purchasing from Radio Shack a alligator-type heat sink that one would clip to the lead being soldered, to prevent heat from reaching the transistor.In those days, as we were transitioning from vacuum tubes to transistors, we still used HUGE soldering irons. I had a gun-type iron. Weller. Put out humongous amounts of heat.Another reason, in the pre-PCB days, the wiring was point to point. The photo posted by MK14 brought out some nostalgia.
Long wait for network connection if static IP;RPi - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2015, 05:16:45 am
content: 1. I have isntalled TightVncViewer in my desktop PC(window) & installed on RPI2 board with raspbian.2. Also I have created static ip in pi board by editing cmline.txt file "ip=192.168.0.200:::255.255.255.0".3. Now whenevr I start Pi board & connect HDMI cable to see what's loading, I see(no ethernet is connected between PI & window PC)"Waiting for 110 more for network"& then 100more seconds & so on.4. How to avoid that.
Lonsonho no Neutral light switch issues - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: maciak
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 15, 2020, 08:55:33 am
content: Hi,I'm not really sure if this is a good place for this. But as this is my first topic then I'll just start by saying Hello to You All and will go to the details.I’ve bought a few Lonsonho light switches (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000289352430.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dXNO0oi) and most of them work great. I have one 1 gang and 2x 2gang ones working but have an issue with the remaining two I want to use and need a bit of help with those.Basically I have a weird connection that I have two 1gang switch setup on the wall for hall light and bathroom light. They both use the same Live wire and just have lines going to bulbs. In the hall, I have one light that has 6 bulbs e14 6W in bathroom I have 5 lights connected in parallel G10 5W.Now the issue.I’ve connected Hall switch With L and L1 going to light in the hall and they work fine when connected the antiflicker cap next to the light, but when I connect the second switch for the bathroom lights in there flicker without the antiflicker cap when off but work great when on (tipical behavior) but when I connect the antiflicker cap there when lights are off they dont flicker anymore but they do when they are on ;/ and the problem also gets worse when I additionaly turn the hall light on.Could anyone please advise what could have gone wrong here and any way to make it work properly?
looking at a waveform on a scope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2019, 01:58:36 am
content: Just thought id ask this here,i was trying to look at a 20mhz sine wave on my tek 453 no matter what timebase it was on the waveform is way to squashed on the screen to have any chance to count the divisions between wave peaks,its a 50mhz bw scope,how do others manage it?.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2019, 02:17:54 am
content: Well, yes, with 0.1 ms/Div you won't see much. You need a better scope to observe signals this fast. That's how others deal with that.

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2019, 02:43:05 am
content: my scope timebase goes down to 1 micro second per division.

author: 0culus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2019, 02:49:02 am
content: Uh yeah, the 453 should not have any problems displaying a 20 MHz sinusoid.This scope is certainly worth troubleshooting OP. There's lots of folks both here and at the TekScopes list who will be able to help if you run into problems.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2019, 02:50:12 am
content: TekWiki said 0.1 ms/Div, my bad.At 0.1 us/Div you should see 2 periods per division. So if you don't see that, something is wrong.Try with slower signals and see if whatever you observe matches the time base setting.

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2019, 06:01:48 am
content: Quote from: m3vuv on September 29, 2019, 01:58:36 amDo you mean "squashed" from side to side, or "squashed "vertically?If the former, do you mean too many cycles displayed, so the distance from each peak is too small to discern?If that is the case, you need to go to a faster time/div setting.Or, is the whole display squished up in the middle of the screen, with gaps either side?This can be as simple as an incorrect setting of the horizontal controls, up to a real fault.If "squashed" vertically, maybe the signal is so small that you can't fill the screen height with it.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2019, 08:09:58 am
content: The answer is in your other thread on this topic.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/is-my-scope-buggered/msg2714420/#msg2714420
Looking for 12V@10A dc-dc converter from 14.8V @10A battery - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: muthukural001
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2019, 07:56:48 am
content: Hello,For one of my project, I need to convert 14.8V @10A capacity battery to 12V @ 10A...The 14.8V battery source 's cutoff voltage is 12.8V. So, the dc-dc will be used should give 12V output even when the input is 12.8V.Do anyone crossed the regulator that do the above?...Please suggest...Thanks,Muthu

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2019, 04:56:28 pm
content: Unless you need isolation or have some other reason, you may just want to use a low-dropout linear regulator instead of a DC-DC or buck converter. At 14.8 volts your linear regulator will be 81% efficient, at 12.8 volts it will be 93%. That's going to be as good or better than most switching converters.You could use 5 of these LDO linear regulators in parallel, each with a 0.1R or 0.15R resistor in series on the input side.https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Microchip-Technology-Micrel/MIC29300-12WU-TR?qs=U6T8BxXiZAUm3rpKH4l03A%3D%3DIf you need isolation or want a switching converter for some reason, they do have this:https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/281/uwe-100-120-35373.pdf

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 20, 2019, 08:07:03 pm
content: Please do not double post:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/how-to-convert-14-8v-10a-lipo-battery-output-to-12v10a/
Looking for 3 core cable like on RC servos - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: FrankT
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2014, 09:55:58 pm
content: I've been searching the major electronics distributors looking for a roll of 3 core cable, like what is used on RC servos - 3 conductor ribbon cable, about 28AWG, but I can't find it.I'm guessing I'm just not using the correct name for the product. Any suggestions on what to search for?Googling for RC Servo cable only finds extension cables, not rolls.Thanks,Frank

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2014, 10:16:21 pm
content: Local retail sources will be hard to find or relatively expensive.Go where the wire is most used - China.eBay has a lot of sellers in this space. I've had custom RC leads (with connectors) made in the hundreds for very decent prices.Just buying a 50/100m roll of cable should be very reasonable with ~10-day delivery.Anything less - then you're not buying cable, your buying some hobby wires.

author: andersendr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2014, 06:18:04 pm
content: Here is a 10 conductor ribbon cable on DigiKey. Just peel off the extra conductors that are not needed.http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3811%2F10%20300/MC010M-5-ND/3878633
Looking for a 3D model for a TO-99 Socket - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: LoveLaika
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2021, 09:25:30 pm
content: I'm trying to create a footprint for a TO-99-8 socket. It's pretty generic, following the part on the page below, but I was wondering if there was a 3D part model for this socket, or a model that was similar to this? Having a 3D model for this would help verify my footprint's measurements and all.https://www.mill-max.com/products/socket/917-xx-xxx-41-005000/917-47-208-41-005000?s_term=917-47-208-41-005000&s_type=Quick%2FProduct%2FPart+Number+Search
Looking for a 3D model for a USB Type A socket - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kristakis
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 04:51:48 am
content: I have a design that needs a USB Type A right-angle socket and am looking at 2 parts.One is the Jing 901 series which is 14mm long and 7mm tall:DatasheetBut it's a tad longer and taller than the enclosure I have. I found the Jing 919 serial which is only 10mm long and 6.5mm tall and fits perfectly:DatasheetAdditionally I like how the load-bearing shield terminals are closer to the front. I've found numerous 3D models for the 901 series, but cannot find any for the 919. I checked on snapeda, componentsearchengine and multiple 3D model sites like grabcad etc.Does anyone have anything like this or any suggestions for where else I should look.TIA,kris

author: exmadscientist
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 05:51:32 am
content: GCT 1125is similar and has a 3D model. They also have the mid-mount 1115 which is a little smaller still, at the expense of being mid-mount. In general I like GCT as my first stop for USB products as they have a wide selection, are well stocked, and are priced decently.You have to be careful with things like the Jing 919 series. Those front retention pins can easily end up too close to, or even over, the edge of the PCB once you account for where the mating connector needs to end up given your enclosure wall location. This is of course notalwaysthe case -- the part is available for a reason! -- but is something you need to remember to check before you get anything fabbed. Connector datasheets with a mated drawing can be a real help here. Even if the drawing is useless it might just remind you to do the check!

author: kristakis
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 07:25:26 am
content: I did find that 3D model but the part was not in stock with JLC and it was substantially more expensive to purchase from elsewhere.
Looking for a 5 pin spdt relay form C with specific terminal arrangement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jjw
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 31, 2025, 01:15:19 pm
content: Hi. I'm looking for a relay similar to JW1FSN-DC5V. I want to find is a relay with the same terminal locations, but the NC and NO arrangements reversed. I searched online electronics component shopping site, but couldn't find it. Does anyone know of such a relay?

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2025, 11:34:59 pm
content: I doubt the relay you are looking for exists. The industry has standardized the footprint and connections. Many companies can now 'second source' a standard relay. Probably easier to cut the traces and rewire the PCB with little jumpers. Did someone goof up the original design of the PCB???

author: jjw
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 01, 2025, 04:20:02 am
content: I recently took a certification exam and the relay I mentioned came up in it. I want to get that relay so my friend can practice with it, but I can't find it.
Looking for a battery terminal part number - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dugs1212
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 23, 2015, 06:10:32 am
content: http://powertool.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/chicago_electric/69360.html?p=13Right underneath what they are calling the "terminal board" is a battery terminal that lives inside the drill. It looks to just be a piece of plastic with some metal prongs on it, but this is a critical piece I need to figure out the name of. Or where I could get more of. Here is an imgur album with a few picture of what I'm describinghttp://imgur.com/a/VoCyjThis one has a broken clip thats why the clips look different.I want to buy hundreds potentially thousands of these internal components. So finding the manufacturer would be ideal.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2015, 01:28:40 pm
content: There is no part number, it's just a PCB with some terminals soldered to it.Looking for the UL certification number finds the company that made the PCB:http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/template/LISEXT/1FRAME/showpage.html?name=ZPMV2.E306350&ccnshorttitle=Wiring,+Printed+-+Component&objid=1078646930&cfgid=1073741824&version=versionless&parent_id=1073814637&sequence=1TL-02 appears to be a Teflon material.If you need that many of them, copy the PCB shape, find asuitable pair of terminalsto put on them, and have a PCB assembler make them for you.
Looking for a better SMD USB Micro connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jackster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2019, 03:47:44 pm
content: Been using the Amphenol 10103592-0001LF for a while and it has been nothing but trouble.https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/micro-usb-connectors/7142334/Looking for something a bit better.Issues with the Amphenol part come down to the pins being under the housing making rework a pain.The USB connection inside being crap sometimes resulting in having to force pressure with the cable to get it to work.I like Wurth Elektronik stuff. More expensive but I found their parts to be a great quality.https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/micro-usb-connectors/1225099/Any other recommendations?Need stock in UK ideally. RS is the best distributor for me.Thank youJack

author: jc101
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2019, 05:07:27 pm
content: If your a company you can buy direct from Wurth, which is a fraction of the price of that shown in RS / Farnell etc. Down side is you pay for shipping, so I try to bunch up items to put in an order that mitigates this.They will send you samples FOC though, and they have decent CAD libraries for their stuff too.

author: Jackster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2019, 05:56:42 pm
content: Quote from: jc101 on July 01, 2019, 05:07:27 pmLast time I bought from them it was for 1000 of a component.I don't think I am going to meet MOQ for these. Only looking for upwards of 100.

author: jc101
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2019, 06:00:31 pm
content: I think the minimum value is £50.Depending on your timescales I can check if I'm close to an order, your welcome to piggy back on that.

author: Jackster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2019, 06:16:11 pm
content: Quote from: jc101 on July 01, 2019, 06:00:31 pmSent my rep an email to see MOQ.Thanks for offer though. Might take it up if they end up being a lot cheaper.
Looking for a book about circuit design - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: whyme?
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 25, 2017, 08:43:03 pm
content: Hello!I'm a newbie and looking for a good circuit design book. One that would start with the basics preferably.My objective is to, hopefully, learn how to design a power supply for example but more importantlyunderstandwhat's going on in a given circuit.I have general knowledge of how circuits work (from Kirchhoff law to Thevenin/Norton theorem, diodes, rectifiers)My math is average: I did cal1, cal2 and cal3.I have limited knowledge in BJT's and FET's and would also like to learn more about those and effectively use them in circuit design.What would you recommend ?Thanks

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2017, 08:55:57 pm
content: Take the MIT Course on edX, on Circuits and Electronics. I think it comes in 3 or 4 parts now. That's the best place to start. It has a textbook, available online for free reading to those who sign up. Then, take the Power Electronics course on Coursera, by University of Colorado Boulder, that has a textbook on designing Power Electronics circuits, that's fairly easy reading, once you've completed the MIT course. The Power Electronics course has a recommended textbook that is not free, but it's worth the money. The professor asks you not to download any copies of this book that you might find around the internet, because they are pirated versions. So, do buy the book to support the prof and his team. Those two courses, and textbooks that go along with them are a good start.
Looking for a book to practice solving problems involving trasnistors, opamps... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: avogadro
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2018, 02:40:42 pm
content: Basically I need it for my university, professor doesnt know what book to suggest for problems with numbers. Basically what were doing in the class is linear and dynamic load lines, basic trasistor and fet amplifiers, frequency characteristic, A, AB, D type amplifiers, feedback loops. Does anyone know a good book that has million problems with solutions to grind through until I can understand it?
Looking for a cheap hot air gun. Is the Atten 858d+ still viable? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Moriambar
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 28, 2020, 03:47:29 pm
content: HiI'm searching for an hot air gun. I remember an old eevblog video about the Atten 858d+ which Dave used and was kinda satisfied with it. Its price range was (IIRC) 40-60$.Now 8 years have passed from the video and I'm looking for it, but I'm scared by clones on aliexpress/ebay. Is the 858d+ still a viable (and commercially available) option? Is there anything better under 80€?Thanks.

author: AZRick
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 29, 2020, 10:22:53 pm
content: Don't know your application but here's something we've been using I bought from Amazon. Our techs say they like it better than the much more expensive Weller we'd been using:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR2IWBN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1We've got a couple of them and they've held up well.

author: TheHolyHorse
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2020, 10:42:18 am
content: I've been using the atten for a while now without any issues. I got mine for like 35€ or so. For that price it doesn't really matter, if it sucks just ditch it

author: TassiloH
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2020, 01:15:06 pm
content: I am using a clone I bought some years ago. It has been working reliably for me. The ony advice I have is: Only use it on a power outlet that is protected by an RCD/GFI. Two reasons for this:a) The ground wiring in the wand/hand piece looks thinner than it should be, I am not sure if I would like to rely on that to trip a 16 amp. breaker (which will sustain 30 amps for a long time and only trigger the rapid trip mechanism at 80 amps).b) The power switch (at least in my unit) is single pole. Unless you have polarized power plugs (and the wiring in the unit is correct), a short circuit to ground in the heater could deliver full power to the heater even when the power switch is off, creating a fire hazard (mine does not seem to have a thermal fuse, some newer ones have a thermal fuse, but I would not rely on that without opening it and checking).

author: TheHolyHorse
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2020, 02:44:02 pm
content: I always unplugg it when I'm not in the room just to be safe.

author: zigenz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 31, 2020, 03:19:59 pm
content: I'm using a variant and it works just fine.You may want to disassemble it though and review/remedy its grounding - despite the wand including a ground connection, mine wasn't connected, nor was the chassis grounded properly. I actually laughed when I opened the box - it was supplied with a two-prong plug!A bit of Googling on this issue should provide more insight on this grounding issues with the Chinese units.
Looking for a cheap tilt switch, ideally SMT - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jackster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2020, 12:20:04 pm
content: I have a circuit board that typically lays flat under a hinged flap. Think car bonnet (not actually a car bonnet, just an example).I need to detect if this hinged flap is lifted up.This is a penny-pinching project so need something cheap and ideally SMT so no hand soldering.The switch will turn on some LEDs. I know these sorts of things have low current so I will use a transistor to power the few low current LEDs.Any known part numbers that would be worth checking out?Thanks

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2020, 12:56:36 pm
content: An often used tilt switch nowaday's is a plastic tube with a metal ball and a few contacts on one end.I don't know type numbers though. Have you tried Digikey / Mouser / Arrow / Sparkfun / RS / China / etc...

author: Jackster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2020, 01:02:36 pm
content: Quote from: Doctorandus_P on May 01, 2020, 12:56:36 pmYea I found these and actually will work better for my use case as I can move the sensor around to allow for slight angles on the items that these will go on..
Looking for a circuit example reference (book or app note) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Daving
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2013, 08:19:05 am
content: I'm trying to find a book or a set of app notes that have a number of example circuits with brief descriptions, similar to what's in National's app note 31 (http://www.ti.com/ww/en/bobpease/assets/AN-31.pdf) or at the end of the chapters in The Art of Electronics (Thanks Dave for that recommendation). A friend of mine is specifically interested in RF circuits, but my interest extends to general analog and power (linear and SMPS). If anyone knows of such material, I'm sure other's would be interested in it as well.

author: w2aew
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2013, 03:10:56 pm
content: While this isn't a book, it is a huge collection of schematics and information, mostly RF / ham radio related, but also includes some building blocks, test circuits, audio circuits and misc.http://www.qsl.net/va3iul/Homebrew_RF_Circuit_Design_Ideas/Homebrew_RF_Circuit_Design_Ideas.htm

author: marshallh
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 16, 2013, 07:05:04 pm
content: How about Jim Williams' Appnote 47 from Linear. It's long but worth the readhttp://www.mit.edu/~6.331/an47fa.pdf

author: nadona
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2013, 02:47:35 am
content: This just might help you.http://discovercircuits.com/list.htm

author: Daving
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2013, 08:52:25 am
content: Thanks for the links. I've managed to find a rather sizable collection of app notes and links, so here it is. LT is certainly well represented here.App Note 31: Op Amp Circuit CollectionApp Note 43: Bridge CircuitsApp Note 47: High Speed Amplifier TechniquesApp Note 52: Linear Technology Magazine Circuit Collection, Volume 1App Note 66: Linear Technology Magazine Circuit Collection, Volume IIPower ProductsApp Note 67: Linear Technology Magazine Circuit Collection, Volume IIIData Conversion, Interface and Signal ProcessingApp Note 105: Current Sense Circuit CollectionAN1114: Switch Mode Power Supply (SMPS) Topologies (Part I)AN1207: Switch Mode Power Supply (SMPS) Topologies (Part II)A Single-Supply Op-Amp Circuit Collectionhttp://www.discovercircuits.com/list.htmhttp://www.ecircuitcenter.com/Circuits.htm

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2013, 10:42:09 pm
content: Newnes Electronic circuit pocket book series are very useful, they give practical circuit designs and brief theory, all the circuits work and can be used and or adapted.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2013, 02:19:36 am
content: go buiy the two jim williams books on analog circuits. over 2000 pages with nothing but practical examples.and if you buy them through linear's website there is a 30% discount. i made a separate topic today on those books.
Looking for a comparable transistor BUK7675-55A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dontknwmucboutanythng
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2022, 02:11:13 am
content: Hello,Anyone happen to know where can I buy this transistor BUK7675-55A or a comparable one? It's in a car's circuit.Thanks for the help!BUK7675-55AN-channel TrenchMOS standard level FET

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2022, 02:26:15 am
content: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nexperia/BUK7675-55A118?qs=me8TqzrmIYUrMrFHl9AZlg%3D%3D
Looking for a compatible mosfet replacement.. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tianz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 21, 2023, 02:37:09 pm
content: Hello..I have CSeasonic KM based psu that wont turn on...No voltage on +5VSB and PS_OM pin...The board layout exactly like in this thread and the symptom are the samehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/ic-identification-107168/after reading the thread above... I measure the voltage on those mosfet ( U3 and U4 )SPN5001 :http://www.syncpower.com/datasheet/SPN5001.pdfU4Drain pin : 200v, Gate 2,72V and nothing on S pin (0v).U3Drain pin : 170v, Gate 2,72V and nothing on S pin (0v).I assumes the voltage on Gate pin should turn the mosfet ON... (please correct me if i'm wrong)So i believe those two mosfet are bad...I have tried to find the compatible replacement, but I cant find with 600v VdssI assumes that circuit above is just mosfet acting as a switch, I notice there is un populate resistor next to the mosfet, which i believe its function to "bypass" the mosfeton U4=R226on U3=R225So my question are, is it really bad mosfet ? if it is, can i just bypass it with placing a resisitor ? with what resistor value ?Thank you... Appreciate all your help and input....

author: bc546kkkk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 21, 2023, 06:03:04 pm
content: Not going into details, you will certainly fing 600V mosfet, easiest to get probably in bigger THT package, if you're certain that its the damaged part, add wires to the board and solder mosfet to them. Just look up gate threshold voltage, if it switches slowly in circuit maybe added capacitance on gate wont matter. But to be sure check the part onboard. Add multimeter on diode test between D and S and apply a few volts through 10k resistor not exceeding gate max voltage and higher than gate threshold between G and S. If it works, multimeter should indicate short.

author: tianz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 22, 2023, 02:09:46 am
content: I will try your suggestion...I'll try find suitable mosfet first, and report backThank you for your help
Looking for a connector (see picture) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: desperate
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 24, 2022, 08:53:40 am
content: I'm looking to source a connector. It is 9/16 wide, 3/16 tall, 4 pin. Sort of looks like a PC board edge connector, it would grip both sides of the PC board. Note the top right connector is missing a small piece of plastic that the other three have... but it should be there, it broke off. Doesn't affect the function (so far).Note the top corners are beveled, otherwise it would be rectangular.This particular one, and my primary use is for a power connector for a ResMed AirSense 11 CPAP machine. Only the outer two pins are actually in use. But I think I've seen connectors like this in other situations, I can't remember where, though!

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2022, 11:18:50 am
content: Whats it from?

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 24, 2022, 12:56:54 pm
content: I feel I have seen that somewhere - but for the life of me, I just can't place it.

author: pcprogrammer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2022, 01:00:09 pm
content: At first I thought firewire, but that only has three pins per side.

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2022, 01:33:45 pm
content: Is that a shielded gigabit cable?

author: desperate
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 24, 2022, 05:28:27 pm
content: I'll add this to the posting... it's a power connector for a ResMed AirSense 11 CPAP machine. Only the outer two pins are actually in use.
looking for a connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ealex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2016, 10:09:05 am
content: HelloI'm trying to find a female connector similar to the tall ones used in this photo:the entire page link is :http://www.nixieclock.org/?p=411I could only find something like this:http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/418/NG_CD_66504_AP-691769.pdfthe one i found has a crimp-able end, instead of a solder pin.i could crimp it over a 0.5 - 1mm wire then solder that wire in, or i could just crimp it with no wire and use the crimped end as a solder terminal.any other hints on what to look for ? the tube's pin is 1mm in diameter and i need at least a height of 11-12mm to clear the tube's end

author: dmills
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2016, 10:26:36 am
content: Looks like the sort of thing mill-max specialise in?https://www.mill-max.com/product_finder/1Of course the mill-max stuff is expensive so it is probably a cheaper version, but if you only need small quantities....Regards, Dan.

author: klunkerbus
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 08, 2016, 12:55:44 pm
content: Searching on "tube socket pins" brings up some possibilities to look at. At least looking through the image search results.

author: ealex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2016, 03:50:14 pm
content: thanks guysthe "tube socket pins" did the trick.i've found this :https://www.tindie.com/products/UnusualElectronics/pack-of-80-nixie-tube-sockets/or:http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4_11&products_id=28&zenid=9b4a00f168a6eb1b8045a8b06066d996now i need to find someone that's still selling these
Looking for a datasheet - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Nokia3310
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2021, 10:26:23 pm
content: Hi. I'm an electronics beginner. I'm looking for a datasheet for a part that's in a motorcycle ignition control unit. The number on the part is MH3288F10. It has a Mitsubishi symbol on it. I think the part is the IC that controls ignition timing. I've looked but as an electronics newbie I can't find a datasheet. I was hoping the experienced people might know where to find one? Thanks

author: StillTrying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2021, 10:47:50 pm
content: I don't know how you sign in to get it.https://www.jotrin.com/product/parts/MH3288F10

author: Nokia3310
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2021, 11:39:02 pm
content: Thanks. I also found that website and signed up to it. When you sign up and click on the pdf link it brings you to this site. I couldn't see the datasheet on therehttps://www.mitsubishichips.com/?filetype=datasheet&kw=MH3288F10

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2021, 12:32:26 am
content: I wonder if that is their way of numbering a 28F010 Flash Ram?

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2021, 12:34:11 am
content: I wonder if that is their way of numbering a 28F010 Flash Ram?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2021, 02:46:53 am
content: Post a picture of it; or at least tell us what package it is.You may be misreading the part number.

author: Nokia3310
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2021, 01:08:18 pm
content: I think the link that StillTrying put up is the correct part. Sorry I don't know what you mean by package.
Looking for a datasheet/pinout for futaba DG10T tubes. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Boyfinn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 04, 2015, 07:17:55 pm
content: I have some 7-segment vacuum fluorescent tubes lying around, And i would like to do something with them.However i've found little to none information about these tubes on the internet. Does anyone know where to find any technical information/datasheets of these parts?Here's one of about 20 results i found on google image search and they look pretty much like this:

author: Moseven
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 04, 2015, 09:54:22 pm
content: Use Google Translate on this page :http://www.ne.jp/asahi/shared/o-family/ElecRoom/PARTS/DISPLAY/ElecPds2.htm#DG10TTranslated : DG10T (ISEDEN) Dimensions ?10 × H35 mm display size W5 × H8.5 mmPower (current) filament 1.0V 66mA grid 12V 2.8mA segment 12V 110uA (measured value).Those numbers are also here :http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_dg10t.htmlOn that page are also the connections.This is a clock with the DT10T :Using them is like any any other VFD :http://www.instructables.com/id/IV-11-VFD-Clock/?ALLSTEPS

author: Boyfinn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 05, 2015, 08:44:42 am
content: Thanks! This helps alot!
Looking for a Display to Replace a Analog Panel Meter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: evglabs
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2018, 04:01:35 pm
content: I've been lurking for a while and watching Dave's videos, so Hi!I'm new to electronics and as a "first" project, I'm trying to build an ohm meter. I've got the circuit working and the current step I'm trying to do is find a LCD display to emulate an analog panel meter (display a digital needle on a scale).I've bought a 3.5" 480x320 lcd that uses a RM68140, but I'm gettinghorribletearing on it. I've also tried a 7" 800x600 RA8875 but that seemed way to buggy to get working reliably.I'm not too picky about the specs but preferably the display would be somewhere around 5-7" 480-800 pixels wide and fast enough to draw at 60 fps for around $50. Heck, color depth's not even that important (could even be monochrome!).The MCU I'm using is a maple mini clone (STM32F1).Any suggestions for a display? Would I need a more powerful controller?I'm really new so I may have left out some needed data.Thanks
Looking for a dual CA3140 TSSOP alternative - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: belzrebuth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2024, 06:36:54 pm
content: I need to substitute a CA3140 which as I understand has a very high input impedance with a dual TSSOP-8 version.What would be a reasonable alternative..I've looked at OPA2180 but I wouldn't mind a cheaper option.
Looking for a electronics kit....binary counter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: golash
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2015, 02:08:38 am
content: Hi AllI'm just starting out in electronics and found this great video.I would like to find a kit I could build similar to the video but with8 segment display for the binary and the whole numbers. The 8 segmentoption seems more elegant than LED's.I did a search but didn't find anything.Thanks

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2015, 03:13:32 am
content: Quote from: golash on March 20, 2015, 02:08:38 amYou probably meant 7 segment display?

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2015, 03:55:00 am
content: You may be jumping ahead of yourself a little.Get the binary counter working first- so you get the idea of bits, 2^n and ripple counters.To add a 7(8) segment LED will simply give you four blinking LED segments without any 'digits' displayed.(They're just different shaped LEDs!) - or you can spend $ on a digit with decoding built-in....Your next step may be understanding the various methods to decode the 4-bit binary into the LED 7-segment positions...This could be a BCD to 7-segment decoderchip, or perhaps adiode arrayto light the appropriate segments for each digit's shape. The diode array is a better idea for learning - as it will teach you a lot more about the underlying electronics and logic than buying a black chip.(Keep an eye on the current capability of the various outputs!)Also you have to decide how you want to drive the LED segments (Common Anode or Common Cathode) - which in turn will define how you select, drive & connect up the LED 'decoder'.Simply - ONE DIGIT:4-bit counterBCD to 7-segment decoder7-segment LED displayThen you can choose how to cycle between 0-F (hex), or restrict the counting range to 0-9 (decimal)...There's always more than one way, and even more things you can add later...Once all the above is working - swap out the discrete 4-bit counter for a single TTL 74-series chip...or the countr and decoder for a CMOS 40xx chip... (no numbers - you have to find them !)EDIT: Just found this page - explains a lot for you:COUNTERS:http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/counter/count_1.htmlDECODE & DISPLAY:http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/combination/comb_6.html

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 20, 2015, 03:55:33 am
content: Well, 7 Segment + DPThere are heaps of kits out there for this kind of thing, literally 100's. What country are you in?

author: golash
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2015, 11:23:22 am
content: HiThanks for the great explanation-SL4P. I'm in the US.
Looking for a good 6.5a smps - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: lombster
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 24, 2025, 06:45:04 am
content: I recently acquired a Riden RD6006. I am looking for a budget smps that is in the range of 62v to 68v at 6.5a or above. Meanwell does not offer anything like this, does anyone have any brand recommendations? My budget is roughly $40.I am unsure what the form factor is called but I’ve attached a photo of the type of supply the Riden takes.ThanksLombster

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2025, 06:49:59 pm
content: www.aliexpress.com

author: ArchieAltz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2025, 12:31:20 am
content: I personally just used an old ATX power supply along with a boost converter to reach the (in my case 50V/5A ) 60V/6A power limit of the RD6006. However you could probably find a chinesium SMPS that will make a firework show in your workshop :-)

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2025, 03:17:07 am
content: So what do people power with them ?? Lab or factory equipment ??

author: ArchieAltz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2025, 05:50:44 pm
content: Quote from: MathWizard on March 26, 2025, 03:17:07 amWhat do you mean ?

author: xlzslayer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2025, 06:28:53 pm
content: As the other guy said you can scour aliexpress, but I suggest you be careful as a lot of chinesium power supplies lack protections.Meanwell does get pretty close to fulfilling your requirements near that budget, their standard enclosed supplies seem to go up to 56v, and it looks like they have an open frame one that does 58v. Unless you absolutely need 60v on your bench riden power supply, you can just settle on a meanwell.