hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
RFID NFC Toy question. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kfkboys
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 19, 2021, 02:50:31 am
content: Hello All,I have a few NFC and RFID based toys that are no longer in production and I have found a way to read the raw data off of the NTAG213 (Lego Dimensions) and MF1ICS20 (Disney Infinity) tags.I have digital backups of all of my own pieces and now that I have kids, I am trying to preserve them but still play games with them.How would I use either a STM32F103C8T6 or some type of arduino or rpi to inject the digital backup of my own toys into the game?I have the VID and PID of the original base to read in the game however I don't know where to start.I do not want to pirate or even remotely suggest such a thing, I'm merely trying to protect several hundreds of dollars (and thousands of hours) worth of toy investments from my toddlers while still playing the games.Here's what I know:Changing the VID and PID of a device will allow the game to believe the original base is plugged in.But I have no idea where to go from here.I'm very handy with a soldering iron and have lots of experience with electronics, but I'm not familiar at all with any type of RFID or NFC communication or handshake material.Datasheets:http://www.orangetags.com/wp-content/downloads/datasheet/NXP/MF1ICS20.pdfhttp://www.orangetags.com/wp-content/downloads/datasheet/NXP/NTAG213_215_216.pdfThank You

author: bborisov567
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2021, 09:28:16 am
content: You may try using RC522 module and arduino. You will be able to get some of data in the memory and UID of the tag but if am not wrong a 'key' is need (which is between 0 and 255 as far as i remember) to be able to read the rest of it.

author: kfkboys
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 19, 2021, 04:17:39 pm
content: Thank You for the response.Currently my setup uses the RC522 and an arduino in order to read these values.I have a way to calculate the keys already so it's not a problem of reading any of the data on the toys.I have a full Bin capture of all of the figures I own.I'm really looking for guidance in order to emulate what I already have.I don't care if it's either way, ideally I'd like to have the base emulated and then I can install my own bin files.ORIf there's a way to manipulate a custom RFID tag (needs to be custom because I need to rewrite the UID) with my own data buy building something even if it's an active tag.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2021, 12:02:13 am
content: My best advice is to start reading the RFID specs. 13.56MHz is a bit more complex than the 125kHz ones.

author: bborisov567
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2021, 02:02:58 pm
content: There are chineese rfid id tags/cards with rewritable uid. Just search for '13.56khz changable uid' on aliexpress or ebay. In the examples of the RC522 library there is an example sketch for writing your own uid.
RFID tag transmitter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: nForce
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2017, 04:09:21 pm
content: Hello,I know how the chip (which contains the information gets power). By radiowaves which by Faraday's law induces a voltage in a coil(receiveng antenna). But I don't understand how it transmittes data to the RFID reader. I never designed those chips, but I can think that the chip is a register (ROM) which contains 0 and 1. Something like in a computer. So how to transmit such data? I have read about it on the web, but it's not described for the transmitter.So from my understanding we can transmit only harmonic signals, but if we have a DC value of voltage, can we transmit DC signals?Thank you.

author: Mickster
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2017, 04:58:35 pm
content: To be brief, the device shorts it's antenna to create the data bits. This link explains a lot better than I can.http://www.rfwireless-world.com/Terminology/ASK-vs-FSK-vs-PSK.html
RFM69HCW antenna question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Arek_R
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2019, 11:01:04 pm
content: Hi, I'm designing a receiver for electric skateboard using RFM69HCW, the requirement is to have a ceramic SMD antenna but also have the ability to somehow change/switch it to U.FL(pigtail?) coaxial connector, so off the shelf external antenna can be used instead if the signal with ceramic antenna won't be good enough.I've seen some construction(see the pic) where track is split into two and placing small ceramic SMD capacitor will switch to either antenna.Is it a good way to do it?What capacitor should I use?Is that capacitor going to descrease the range?I'm a complete noob when it's about RF and I don't even know what keywords to use to google my answers regarding this so that's why I ask you.The frequency is 433MHzThanks!

author: Arek_R
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2019, 12:45:58 pm
content: No RF guys over there? :/

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2019, 02:06:52 pm
content: There are u.FL connectors that make a connection without and antenna connected, or break the connection and "route" the signal to the antenna when one is inserted, usually used for test points in modems/routers.

author: Arek_R
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2019, 04:43:34 pm
content: Oh wow that would be great, could you please provide example link?EDIT: Alright I've found one, not under u.fl name at all, but dimensions seem to match:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/murata-electronics-north-america/MM8030-2610RJ3/490-5907-6-ND/3635134But then it doesn't have a pin, it's a female version, I needed male version so people can just buy standard u.fl 433MHz antenna from ebay aliexpress amazon etc.Or at least I have to find a plug that plugs into this.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2019, 04:01:48 pm
content: I'm no RF guy but I think the capacitor is not very critical and mostly forms a high pass filter.I've also seen 0 Ohm jumpers to switch between the PCB antenna and the coax connector.The layout / trace length of the RF side is pretty critical though. Adding a "normal" switch is a no-no.Alternatively you can opt to put a connector between the RFM69 module and your uC board.The RFM69 modules are prety cheap and you can easily swap the whole module if you want to use another antenna.This way the RFM69 & antenna can be a single unit without having to mess with the RF side of things.
Rfm69HW component specification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Savetheday
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2019, 10:49:30 pm
content: HiAccidentally, I removed this component. Do you guys know which specification that component has? I couldn't find exactly anything in the datasheet.thanks.

author: Savetheday
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2019, 10:59:13 pm
content: Is it capacitor with 100nF?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2019, 02:47:45 am
content: Probably. There are other pages on the internet which state that the IC on there is an SX1231, and the application schematic shows 100n decoupling caps.

author: Savetheday
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2019, 09:43:50 am
content: thanks.How did you get that code? I didn't find anything with this IC 'HF69 1535 W3F719'

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2019, 12:38:16 pm
content: That is an R...http://www.orcam.eu/res/Datablad/rf69v12.pdf(If you're wondering why that looks like the SX1231 datasheet, I'm not sure --- could be a clone.)
RFT Stella 1607 TV Datasheet? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: optionen100
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2013, 01:21:01 pm
content: Hello!I have a DDR TV( RFT Stella 1607)When i turn it on it takes more than 30 Seconds until the Tubes are glowing,then 20 seconds until i can hear the buzzing.Then it starts Smoking. (it only says 25/300 and 50/71 on the smoking (resistor?) part)I searched for a Datasheet ,but only found "Stella 1606U" at Radiomuseum.I dont have money/paypal to register there.Does anyone have a Datasheet/help/Idea for me?My friend told me this could be a broken 50+50uf 350-385V Capacitor ?(sorry for my english)
RGB LED 10W Flood Lamps - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2014, 04:02:16 am
content: I am looking to purchase 6 of these off eBay.My question is, these will be going underneath the deck to shine down onto a pond. The remote they come with is IR (each of the lights come with this remote). Can I tie together all the wires for the IR receiver and run a single IR (just extending the wire) and mount it somewhere where the remote can access it? Or is each light tuned to a different frequency to match it's accompanying remote?Here are the ones I am looking athttp://www.ebay.com/itm/US-10W-85-265V-LED-RGB-Spotlight-Flood-Outdoor-Waterproof-Color-Change-Light-/390688401754?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item5af6d7e95aas you can see, the IR remote wire comes out of the casing. (they have some that are inside as well).

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2014, 05:46:11 am
content: You'd hope that the IR receiver circuit is fully isolated from the mains, but the Chinese do some nasty circuit designs.I've never been game to buy the mains voltage versions of those flood lights as I've seen too many horror story internal switch-mode power supplies.I guess you could open them up and see how well they're made and go from there. I wouldn't assume anything up front though.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2014, 06:05:04 am
content: I couldn't find any that weren't mains voltage. I found some that said 12v AC *shrug*Could you point me to some?

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2014, 06:30:01 am
content: The 12V ones I've used were DMX input, not IR control. Maybe check AliExpress and eBay.
RGB LED circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mattko
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 04:45:48 pm
content: Hello!I'm trying to build an LED board made from RGB LED's. LED's will be arranged in four letters - name of my group. I already bought a lot ofthrough holeRGB LED's from eBay (not diffused- I think it would be better to use diffused, but it's good for now) and 28cm x 40cm perfboard. I will solder all LED's on the perfboard and control them with a small arduino or attiny. I want that the letters fade in different colors. Arduino would control 3 MOSFETS to control the PWM of an individual color.If I connect them all in parallel (about 15-20 LED's per letter x 4 = 80 LED's per color), but that is not too good.Probably the best option is to connect 3 LED's (or maybe a few more) in parallel and then a current limiting resistor in series.Ideal for me would be to use 12V power source, but I can get other voltages also.What soulution do you think is the best one?

author: klr5205
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 05:13:01 pm
content: Your question is kind of vague... careful or people will accuse you of asking us to design the whole thing for you.That being said, you can connect several LEDs in series until the forward voltage starts to approach the supply voltage. For example, if the forward voltage of the green leds was 3.4V (and Vcc = 12v) , you could not have more than 3 in series because a 4th one would make the total forward voltage greater than your 12V supply.Also, you cannot directly parallel LEDs of different colors (i.e. they cannot share a single current limiting resistor). The reason is that the LED with the lowest forward voltage (usually red) will steal current from the other colors.
RGB LED Light - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2025, 04:06:17 pm
content: My temporary, WIP LED monitor backlight began to fail after about 3 years. It's looking like the power brick has gone bye bye, cutting out every few minutes. 5V, 10Amp, been running 16 hours a day for 3 years at 3.6Amps. Cost me £30. Seems like a rip off.Anyway, I liked it. I liked it so much I want to do another one and better this time. Longer and just as bright. Less temporarily permanent.To that aim the plan is to basically double it. But to move up to 12V WS2811bs. I don't need individual pixel accuracy for an indirect light! Groups of 3 will be fine. That will save me from playing games with 5V DC bricks with "stupid amps".So, 144 pixels per meter, 2 meter length. Glued to an aluminium strip of the same length. Along the back of the strip will run 16AWG wire such that the strip can be powered at both ends.The 1m 5V strip pulled 3.6A at full bright white. Regardless of what the scary theoretical draw is (9 amps). A direct conversion to 12V should mean it pulls 1.2A (based on 3 in series) or 1.5A based on voltage scale alone. Doubling the length brings that up to 2.4A. So I am going to pick a 12V, 5Amp brick and spend a few quid on it as it will be in use 16 hours a day. 12V @ 2.4/3.0A ~= 30-36W which sounds about right at full whack for what I need.For "Digital control" I have a few Aurora dongles which take 5-12V power in one end and put out the 3 pin WS2811 signal. They run WLED. This WILL NOT take more than about 2 amps through it before its soft fuse cuts out. However with a little modification I can supply the 12V directly to the LED rails with 16AWG cable and run the digital only on a branch. Not even connecting the + and - outputs from the dongle.The purpose of this light, I should have started here. It runs along the back of my monitor panels, yes they are long enough to hide 2 meters of LED strip. They shine up the wall and onto the cieling and provide the only ambient light in the room. The fact they can be switched to odd mood colours and even do animations like water rippling is just a bonus.A further bonus use is that the strip controller has a REST API. I can, from software alone, signal things via these lights. Alerts for example like motion at the front door when a parcel arrives etc. I can "blink" the strip red for 250ms for one thing and green for another.

author: ahsrabrifat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 02:47:03 pm
content: Since your setup will run 16 hours daily, a high-quality 12V, 5A (or slightly higher) power supply will be a good choice.
RGB modding - ta8801an  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2021, 10:38:18 am
content: I am modding a JVC RGB monitor whose jungle IC is a ta8801an (datasheet attached).The datasheet reports a 0.75 on the RGB lines for switching to the osd, and there seem to be no switch pin.0.75 seems pretty high. Should I assume the video signal is not the usual ~1Vpp but it is 5Vpp?Has anyone ever rgb modded a monitor this particular jungle ic?
RGsB to capture card for PC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: preston1000
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 17, 2016, 01:45:19 am
content: Hello to all,I need help trying to figure out how to make an older Sony CCD camera work. The CCD camera has a 9-pin D-sub cable out to a RGB, a separate sync and a S video. I switched the camera to RGsB so maybe that is something I've accomplished with this project.I have a Avermedia capture card, AVerTV HD DVR model C027 that has 2 HDMI inputs. The capture card came with an adapter that has RGB component , S-video, and composite. I could hook up the composite from another output on the CCD or the S video but I want to use RGB for clarity reasons.I know the capture card mentioned above will not work with RGsB, but is there some kind of converter, scaler, etc. that will make it work? Or anything else someone can come up with to capture RGsB video?This Sony CCD is being used with a microscope for video recording if that helps any.Thanks,Ron

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2016, 11:00:39 pm
content: OK, but what do you mean "RGB component"? RGsB means sync-on-green, and "component" in the video world usually means YUV or YPrPb.You might have to make a RGB to YUV/YPrPb converter circuit with three opamps and a sync stripper with a LM1881.Video needs wide bandwidth, clean power and proper PCB layout....or I wonder if you can tell your card to transcode color spaces on the fly?
rheology modifier for flux paste/gels? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: frogg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2020, 04:18:19 pm
content: Hi folks,Does anyone know what the nicest rheology modifier is for the production of flux paste / gels from liquid flux? By "nice", I mean "simplest, cheapest, safest, and most applicable to the purpose of a soldering flux."Polyamide powder? Hydrogenated castor oil? Fumed silica?
Rheostat power question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2015, 07:15:37 pm
content: http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Watt-100-Ohm-Ceramic-Disk-Rheostat-Variable-Resistor-/171725011843?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27fb9bbb83Does the power rating go down with the resistance?For example if this can do 100 watts at 100 ohms, does this mean it is rated at 50 watts at 50 ohms, and 10 watts at 10 ohms and 1 watt at 1 ohm?thanks

author: richard.cs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2015, 07:34:22 pm
content: Yes, because it's able to dissipate a fixed amount of power per unit length so when you lower the resistance you also lower the length of the dissipating section and the power goes down.Another way of looking at it is if you used it as a 100 Ohm resistor and it's safe at 100W then:P=IV=I2R=V2/RI2=P/R=[100 Watts]/[100 Ohms]I=sqrt(1)=1AmpAndV2=PR=[100 Watts]*[100 Volts]V=sqrt(10000)=100VoltsSo it'll be happy with 100V end to end and 1 amp flowing through it. If you now made it an arbitrary resistance by selecting say 58 Ohms, then 58% of the resistance wire is in circuit and that must dissipate the same power per unit length as it did before. The other 42% doesn't dissipate power but doesn't take heat away either - it's not very well connected (thermally) to the hot bit. It can now take 58 Watts, the resistance and the voltage are all different but the max current is still 1 Amp. Wherever you set it the maximum current doesn't change.
Ribbon cable strain relief - is it necessary? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2021, 02:04:42 am
content: I noticed that Digikey sells connector with the additional strain relief component and also ones without it. My question is, what purpose does a strain relief have? Aren't you just changing the place where the cable might bend just a little further down it?

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2021, 02:50:34 am
content: A proper strain relief keeps the force away from the wire-to-connector junction and probably increases the bend radius.
ribbon cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: EEVaditya
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2016, 06:12:01 pm
content: Hello,Does core matter while purchasing ribbon cable other than cable pitch & AWG.Please guide.

author: Silverio
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 06, 2016, 12:12:52 am
content: I'm assuming you are referring to solid core vs stranded. It depends on your application. If the ribbon will be moving it's best if you choose stranded. If it's stationary then solid core will work fine.

author: johm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2016, 08:46:06 pm
content: For prototypes I find it annoying when the solid core cables keep breaking. However IMHO they are easier to solder. So to bodge something fast I would use solid core. If what you have in mind is some nearly finished product I would go to stranded, it is more resilient, flexes easily and feels nicer too.When soldering, just pre-tin the ends so that strands don't get frizzy and thats all.(I made the mistake to join some XLR connectors to a PCB with solid core cable, install the product 9 meters high onto a moving rig. Half an hour later, there I was high on the scaffold holding the soldering iron with my mouth and the boards and the cables in my hands...)
Ribbon flex connector replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ntec
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 29, 2020, 04:01:10 pm
content: I am trying to fix a tablet that someone botched the ffc/fpc connector on as circled in the picture. When buying a replacement connector I see the connectors are categorized by number of pins and pitch but how do I determine what mine is to find an exact replacement. Not sure if it means anything, but beside the connector it has written a number 1 on one side and 51 on the other side which is also written on the ribbon flex cable to.

author: RoadRunner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2020, 04:32:32 pm
content: Quote from: ntec on October 29, 2020, 04:01:10 pmMaybe a closer look of the connector and also the flex will give people more clear idea what exactly they are looking at.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2020, 11:12:38 pm
content: They are called Flat Flex connectors. The numbers are the pin count.https://www.google.com/search?q=flat+flex+connector&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS923US923&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjHp-qC9trsAhXYuZ4KHfNVBfsQ1TV6BQgEEL8B&biw=1366&bih=625#spd=224666100186936985

author: ntec
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 12:18:03 am
content: Here are better pics.
Ricor Cryo Pump Old School - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: BartArtPol
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 21, 2025, 11:43:17 am
content: Hello everyone,I have a Ricor cryogenic pump together with its compressor in my lab setup 976B000A 3.0 kW Cryodrive. I’m looking Ricor PLC Communication software for this compressor in order to communicate with it via RS232/RS485 and check the settings, since this equipment is used on a vacuum station to achieve high vacuum levels.I’m attaching a photo of the unit. Maybe someone here has heard of it or worked with a similar system? The manufacturer (Ricor) told me that they stopped supporting this type of device more than 10 years ago, so getting any information or software from them is extremely difficult.Has anyone in this community had experience with these units, or does anyone have old software or documentation that could help?Thanks a lot!Bart

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2025, 06:19:48 am
content: G'day Bart,Is this the correct manual? (attached)Section 4.6.1.2"Plccom.exe program"

author: BartArtPol
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 25, 2025, 01:51:23 pm
content: Hello PoroitThank you for your message. Yes, this is the correct manual, but it still doesn’t provide access to the program. I searched online for Plccom.exe, but couldn’t find anything. I also contacted the manufacturer, but unfortunately they no longer support this product.

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2025, 08:13:49 am
content: Maybe you could use TERMINAL Emulation software to communicate with the Ricor.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/best-rs232-terminal/

author: BartArtPol
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 14, 2025, 02:56:57 pm
content: Hello PoroitThanks a lot for your advice 🙂 It was really helpful. I finally managed to get the original software, and everything is working perfectly now. I can control the compressor parameters manually and operate the cryo pump without any issues.
Riden RD6006 - Adding Filtering and Ground Pin - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Simon_RL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2020, 03:30:35 am
content: Never mind I just found a thread on this PSU.

author: Vovk_Z
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2020, 11:59:53 am
content: You should consider how clean DC power do you need. If it must be very clean then it is much easier get it without DC/DC converters, with 50/60 Hz transformer and linear power supply.
Riden RD6024-W One box solution? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Chasman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 18, 2024, 10:49:18 am
content: I'm puzzled by the RD6024-W.Prices are all over the map because you seem to need a power supply and a case.Why does a power supply need a power supply?Does anyone sell a one box solution?

author: tatel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2024, 10:52:43 am
content: Because what you are getting is just the converter?

author: ArdWar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2024, 10:55:12 am
content: Quote from: Chasman on May 18, 2024, 10:49:18 amBecause this is just a programmable DC-DC converter, you still need something else to do AC-DC.

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2024, 11:04:08 am
content: There are kits that you can assemble the complete power supply using the RD6024-W. The kit would include the RD6024, a case, a power supply, cooling fan etc..

author: electr_peter
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2024, 07:43:48 pm
content: Riden (manufacturer) sells various variants of RD6024 attheir shop- just the RD6024, box, PSU or all in one.

author: LinuxHata
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2024, 08:16:15 am
content: And by the way, RD6030 is also available now..
Riden RD60xx Temperature Display - C or F, but not both ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rankamateur
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 14, 2022, 03:00:01 pm
content: Just got a RD6024 with firmware V1.37.It will only display C or F, not both.Many videos show the modules displaying both temps together.Have found no discussion of this in the many documents and videos I've checked.Anyone know how to fix this ?

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2022, 04:47:28 pm
content: I think this was fixed in Unisoft's custom firmware:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/custom-firmware-reference-document-for-riden-rd60xx-power-supplies/msg3482952/#msg3482952and the firmware discussion thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/ruideng-riden-rd6006-dc-power-supply/msg3998257/#msg3998257

author: rankamateur
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 17, 2022, 11:35:00 am
content: LED,Thanks for pointing me to all this material.I'll have to study Sunkmail's documentation to see whether the UniSoft firmware corrects the single temperature display issue.I should have researched this more before posting the query.
RIFA - Replacement Choices - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: IammrA
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2020, 04:02:22 am
content: I've watched enough EEVBLOG that I knew the letters "RIFA" were bad news when I was poking around in an old scope that wasn't turning on. I quickly looked at the values, and the part numbers one the parts and went looking for replacements. I tried searching google for recommended replacement parts and got a lot of opinions and strange part numbers. When I tried a search in Mouser I got some familiar looking KEMET parts. I thought, great that's what I need! I was only slowed down by the price at 2-3 bucks each I decided to dig deeper. The more I look the more I see a trap for new players. The part numbers don't really matter... or I'm understanding a lot less than I think I am.Here is what I think matters when replacing a RIFA cap...the value (0.4uf, or what ever other value) and if it's an X2 or Y2 cap.I had to do a lot of reading the same thing over and over to understand (roughly) what X and Y capacitors are, but they are for two different types of line filtering. As long as you are replacing your X - RIFA cap with a newer X2 cap of a similiar value you will be fine. Don't cross your X and Y (replace an X with a new X2 or a Y with a new Y2) keep the values close to the same (slightly higher will probably be ok) and you will be fine.My question is...Have I got this figured out right, I don't need a specific part number to replace an old RIFA cap, I might be (much) better off not replacing a RIFA with KEMET (as they are now the same company?) just match the values and make sure the X and Y are correct?

author: babysitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2020, 08:56:35 pm
content: Just buy RIFA again, will give you additional 20 Years. Put a label with date on it. They are quite OK during their life.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 13, 2020, 09:08:14 pm
content: Quote from: IammrA on February 13, 2020, 04:02:22 amIf you mean those which look like damn RIFA, they actually are those. Kemet acquired RIFA, it's that simple. Whenever they got fixed or not is a mystery, to which we'll have answer in a decade or two. IMHO simply buy any decent brand X2 film capacitors of suitable dimensions. Y caps can be replaced with ceramic Y caps, they usually are blue.

author: IammrA
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2020, 01:22:50 am
content: Those are the ones to which I was referring. Thanks for answering, on both counts as it sounds like either answer would work well. Any X or Y class cap with an appropriate value is an acceptable replacement.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2020, 03:33:17 am
content: Any suitable X2 or Y2 capacitor as appropriate with the same capacitance and greater or higher voltage rating will work. It would be handy of course to have the same lead spacing and a similar or smaller size. I tend to use plastic film or ceramic instead of paper for replacements. It is not that critical.
riffa caps - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2023, 04:47:27 pm
content: i have this solarcon 7075 seven and a hald digit multimeter,it has a mains input filter that the powerlead plugs into,it smells like a rifa is going south,can i remove it,is it actualy needed,if not can it be disconnected or bypassed?.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2023, 05:06:05 pm
content: Those RIFA capacitors are for EMI/EMC purposes.You can omit them when verifying equipment's general operation, but to ensure performance in a high-sensitivity analogue instrument you may need to replace then.

author: Vovk_Z
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2023, 06:09:54 pm
content: Quote from: p.larner on December 31, 2023, 04:47:27 pmNew X2 caps are easy to find. I would replace them and that's it.

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 07:16:17 am
content: X1 caps are just as easy to find and are better rated. For a few pennies more, why not?
Floppy drives and their right angle header with reversed key - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2021, 04:11:14 am
content: Many floppy drives have a shrouded 34 pin connector with the notch on the bottom, as by attached picture.However, all shrouded right angle 34 pin headers I find have the notch on the topHave a lookhere for example.Do you know any source / what I should look for?

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2021, 09:28:09 am
content: Some drives have the notch in the PCBbut all the others seem to have that bottom notch on the shroud
Right To Repair Newbie Discussion - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: zrlopez
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2020, 07:30:28 pm
content: Hello everybody, I'm new to the EEVblog and still a newbie electronics guy, but I wanted to stay informed about the Right To Repair issue. Basically, my understanding is that electronics companies like Apple will make some of their products unnecessarily difficult to repair. It's not because technology is getting much more advanced. If the tools to repair it exist, then people will buy the tools to do the job. But often companies will prevent suppliers from selling the chip that you need to fix your phone say to the public, so that you are forced to either find an underground means of finding the part via China, or just give up, take the device to the companies repair people or simply buy a new device. Buying a new device, specifically, is not only costly to you, but costly to the environment.What I want to know from the older and wiser of the EEVblog forum is:1) What devices of yours have been unnecessarily difficult to repair, because of the issues I've stated?2) What is Right To Repair like in your state or country? Are you able to get the parts you need?3) I'm open to hearing both sides of the argument, so is there actually a legitimate argument against Right To Repair?If anyone wants to direct me to resources or articles that explain this issue in more detail that would be great!
rigo scope+pc - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2023, 03:19:39 am
content: is it possible to control my rigol ds1052d with my pc,ie change volts per division controls ect and have its screen display on my win10 64bit pc,either via usb or rs232?.

author: alligatorblues
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2023, 04:53:05 am
content: Yes, it's very doable. But you're going to have to design the remote control system.

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2023, 10:07:43 am
content: can it not be done using ultrascope?.

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2023, 02:13:50 am
content: can nobody give me an answer?.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2023, 02:29:21 am
content: go on rigol site and download ultrascope documentation / manual ...https://beyondmeasure.rigoltech.com/acton/attachment/1579/f-0695/1/-/-/-/-/DS1000Z%20DS2000%20DS4000%20DS6000%20UltraScope%20Getting%20Started%20Guide.pdfhttps://rigol.my.site.com/support/s/article/How-to-use-Ultrasigma-and-Ultrascope-to-take-screenshot-of-scopesthe other way if the scope permits it, is by visa / scpi commands, you'll have to build your own stuff like labview etc ...it is not hard to fond your answers if you google a bit ? no offense
Rigol 1022 Arbitrary Wave Form Generator vs Hantek 4202C - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Deboscope
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2019, 09:43:47 am
content: Hi Gents,I have a RIGOL 1022 back home, would it be prudent to get it shipped ove rhere or would the in built AWG of the Hantek 4202C Scope be sufficient? Is there a comparison?
Rigol 1052E as A-> D converter? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: bifferos
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2021, 01:33:12 pm
content: I'd like to capture sampled values with the scope and send them in real-time to a PC via USB is this possible? I've looked at the programming guide and unless I've misunderstood it appears it won't do it, I was wondering if it's possible and if not which other scopes might support this.thanks!

author: bifferos
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2021, 09:46:32 pm
content: Just in case anyone else finds my post in a search, I struggled with this until I found this website:http://hccc.org.uk/usbtmc.htmlIn particular this line:QuoteAnd sure enough, when I plugged it in and switched it on I got a /dev/usbtmc0 device.
Rigol 1052E Scope Slow Capture - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2018, 08:43:22 pm
content: I would like to record a signal over a period of around 120 seconds at a sample rate of around 200Hz with my Rigol 1052E Scope.Is that possible? I tried turning some knobs but cannot get below a 17kHz sample rate and the max duration is much smaller than I want.Thanks in advance

author: JS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2018, 01:38:48 am
content: That's more a range for a different instrument, like a DAQ, a fast logging DMM, a soundcard if it's AC only.Now, you are talking about 200Sa/s, 24kpts. Normal memory depth in DS1052E is 16kpts for a single channel in normal length memory, long memory does support much more, so you can't use that in normal mode but you can using the long memory option. It does say it supports 50s/div which should cover your 120s in less than three divisions, I haven't used the 1052E but if you turn the horizontal scale control on yours it should get there eventually, maybe it doesn't do that in normal operation and only in scan mode... In any case the datasheet isn't celar about it because it does mention 1052X in that spec but I don't know if it's using X to reference any model or why.JS

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2018, 11:19:00 am
content: Looking in the rather thin manual there seems to be....Utility WaveForm Record modeWhat a frame is doesn't seem well defined but this might be worth a go?
Rigol 1054Z serial decoding - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: PerranOak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2019, 05:27:46 pm
content: I've just seen a video on using the Rigol for serial decoding and I fancy having a crack at it.Thing is … I don't have anything that I know uses SPI/I2C/UART as I haven't got into that yet.Is there anything obvious that I could use just to see if I can do it? I mean, some piece of equipment or something that people are likely to have (don't have any Arduinos) that I could use?Sorry, this is pretty vague.Cheers,

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2019, 06:41:28 pm
content: I2C is my least favorite protocol so I'll skip that...SPI is pretty simple but, unless you have some kind of digital pattern generator (or an Arduino), you aren't going to create the signals.You should be able to look at Serial decoding if you have a USB->Serial cable or adapter.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010KII6VGOr, maybe you have a PC with a serial port. All you need to do is get hold of Tx and Gnd.You really should buy an Arduino Uno R3https://www.amazon.com/Development-Microcontroller-ATmega328-ATMEGA16U2-Original/dp/B07R1H4BKKClones are even cheaper.I think you need both a master and a slave device on an I2C bus to get very far with decoding. I think the master will abort the transfer if the slave doesn't ACK the address and R/W bit.For I2C info:http://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva704/slva704.pdf

author: PerranOak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2019, 12:22:43 pm
content: Cheers, thanks mate.
Rigol 1054Z: Vertical Expansion not acting as expected - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sentry
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2018, 08:14:21 pm
content: Hi,I just bought myself a Rigol 1054Z oscilloscope yesterday. I have changed the setting VerticalExp to "Center" because I like the signal to expand and comprise around the center of the screen. Everything works as expected when I push the auto button. The signal stays at the center when I adjust the vertical scale knop, but if I don't use the auto button to locate the signal it doesn't work. The waveform ground level becomes the center. This also happens if I push down on the vertical position knop after I adjust using the auto button.Is it supposed to act this way?

author: JS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2018, 10:13:06 pm
content: Vertical position push should take the signal reference to the center of the screen. Vertical scale push should toggle between fine and coarse scale adjustment. The scale button won't move the center of the signal, so usually, with a positive signal, you put the signal right at the bottom of the screen, increase one coarse scale notch and repeat till you get what you want. If you use AC coupling the signal should always be around the reference point, so when interested in AC signals on top of a DC and you only care about the AC you should use AC coupling, it doesn't make much sense to use DC coupled if you don't need it, it only limits the DC range you are able to look and makes things much harder than they need to be.I don't know how AUTO button is supposed to work as I disable mine first thing after taking the scope out of the box. I guess it should center the signal somewhere in the screen, depending on how many signals are present.JS

author: sentry
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2018, 03:17:43 am
content: Hi JS, thank you for your answer. It clarified things for me:)
Rigol 1054Z Vrms Math function sqrt - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: JimKnopf
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2019, 07:00:56 pm
content: Hello,i got a new Rigol 1054Z Oscilloscope. Setting up an Oscilloscope for the first time, i tried to measure AC Power of the Doorbell. It show me 19,2Vmax, 38,4V Peak to Peak. Vrms value is 13,4x V. Sine wave looks great. Now i want an additional wave which displays Vrms from math function.I thought it's the sqrt function that i can use isn't it? It just doesn't work. Shows me "NAN" but no wave.Any Idea how i can display Vrms wave from any Channel?

author: barry14
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2019, 10:27:20 pm
content: I believe you are trying to display a time waveform for which the amplitude is the RMS value of another waveform. This cannot really be done on an instantaneous basis because the RMS value is a measurement over a period of time. The M in RMS stands for mean. To find the RMS value of a waveform you need to square the waveform (hence the "S"), take the mean value of that square (which means the average over some time period which is usually at least one cycle of the waveform), and then take the square root (hence the "R") of that mean value. For a sine wave the RMS value over one cycle is a constant (the same for every cycle) so that there is really nothing to display. If the waveform were something like random noise, then the RMS value (measured over some time period of the noise) would vary a bit with time (depending on the particular characteristics of that noise). But it would be difficult to display this variation on the same display as the noise waveform since it would consist of a series of numbers spaced at the time period selected to do the averaging.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2019, 04:12:23 pm
content: Quote from: barry14 on April 29, 2019, 10:27:20 pmYou could make a moving calculation. I wonder what happens with the integral function over a 1 cycle waveform? Alas, we don't have the squared values.Quotehttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Root_mean_square
Rigol 1102E -- Digital Filters not available at slower time scales - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: random13
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 10, 2014, 01:46:02 am
content: It's my first scope: Rigol DS1102E. Just playing around, trying to learn how all of this works.I set up the "blink" example on my Arduino and hooked up the probes. Simple square wave at 0.5 Hz, but it looks kind of ... fuzzy.I know! Low Pass Filter!Except... at time scales < 50ms / division the Digital Filter option is greyed out.I looked through the manual and googled, but I can't find any discussion of this ... feature?Changed my "blink" to 100 Hz and so got to play around with the filters, but now I'm wondering:What is the reason for the interaction between the time scale and the filters?I found out that it's pretty easy to connect the scope to a computer and retrieve long time series of data. Would that be a reasonable way to work around the lack of filters at the slower scales?Thanks for any insights!
Rigol 5065-TG Save Image Function - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: IRB
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2018, 06:15:16 pm
content: I had a demo unit, I did a SAVE "Screen Image", Rigol e-mailed me back that this is not a bug...The bmp files have a pop up on one, and on the other one a keyboard over the data, I converted them to jpg to post here.Screen images can be saved as jpg or png also.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2018, 09:14:44 pm
content: Seconds is a bug for sure, that dialogue is created by saving right, so should save prior to creating it.First is arguably not a bug.
Rigol 832 outputs in series - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jerryk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2017, 05:32:13 pm
content: I'm trying to understand why this article (https://rigol.desk.com/customer/en/portal/articles/2285140-how-do-i-connect-the-dp832-to-achieve--30v-on-channel-1-and-channel-2-) states that the jumper to connect the two outputs in series needs to be 9 amp rated.Jerry

author: grifftech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2017, 06:51:11 pm
content: The jumper needs to be 9 amp rated so you can power a device that uses 9 amps

author: jerryk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2017, 07:28:43 pm
content: Quote from: grifftech on October 26, 2017, 06:51:11 pmSince the series output on the 832 is only capable of 3 amps I assume that's all I need to size for (if that is the intended load) and series jumper need only be sized per the load. At least that is my assumption. Another question with regards to that link is I assume that I can jump either +/- between channel 1 & channel 2 to make a series connection.Sorry for the beginner nature of these questions but I'm just wanting to do things correctly.Thanks - Jerry

author: Signal32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2017, 09:02:29 pm
content: Quote from: jerryk on October 26, 2017, 07:28:43 pmThis is correct, really curious too if someone can figure out why 9A requirement.The only scenario that I can think of is if you connect "output 3 -" to circuit ground instead of the shared ground point.In this case "Output 3 -" jumper wire can have 6a across it. Can't figure out how you can get to 9A , possibly a mistake on their part.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2017, 12:50:42 am
content: They added 3A + 3A + 3A. If you wired all three + terminals together in parallel, then connected those to the ground, with one jumper, you could potentially get 9A flowing through a single cable.Whoever wrote it might have been thinking "ok whats the worst case that could happen here". Or they might have not thought about it much at all.

author: Signal32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2017, 01:22:39 am
content: Quote from: rs20 on October 27, 2017, 12:58:27 amQuestion is about jumper wires not DUT ground lead. In your scenarios jumper wires would still be carrying 3A.

author: Damianos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2017, 07:34:14 pm
content: Quote from: thm_w on October 27, 2017, 12:50:42 amI think also it is this.Anyway for some good results it is necessary to always use heavy cables, because these models do not have sensing inputs.