hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
IC leds drivers suggestion ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: JL34
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2020, 11:03:42 am
content: Hello,I am designing a led lighting for my home. This lighting is composed of a string of few or 3.1V/60mA leds in serie on a aluminum core PCB, with embedded driver. I have already done some work (mainly on led choice and project specifications) and i am now trying to choose a nice led driver suitable for my application.Here is the constrains that i defined for this driver :• Constant current driver, that can handle at least a 60mA / 40V led string• Input voltage up to 24V to be powered by 12V or 24V DC power rail.• Output voltage up to 40V or more (the higher it will be, the more led I could put in series)• PWM dimming at high frequency, something above 20Khz• PWM or I2C input controlI have done some search on the web and the forum about this subject. I have found plenty of answer and I am a bit confused.From my last job in electronic card production industry I know that every manufacturer has his specialty and that some are easier to use than others. I don't have enough experience to know which ones are and which are not, and which IC permit to make actual and "state of the art" design or not (I know TI is nice to power module design, maybe on led driving too ?).Any advice is welcome, the main goal is still to learn and progressThanks !Result of my current research :Texas Instruments LP8862-Q1Linear Technology LT3761Infineon BCR602Monolithic power MP3385

author: JL34
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2020, 10:18:03 am
content: I have found maybe another way to achieve what i want.OnSemi have the NSI serie, constant current regulator in 2 pins package. TheNSI50150ADT4Gregulate at 150mA, perfect for my needs. Brightness dimming could be achieved with a simple BJT.Design notesindicate that it can even power led string on AC line with a simple full diode bridge rectifier ! AmazingI just need to find nice and small buck-boost or SEPIC to achieve 24V => 40V+If you have any advice, or know other led driver, thanks to tell me

author: JL34
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2020, 12:50:14 pm
content: Nobody have an IC leds driver to suggest ?

author: Alti
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2020, 02:36:27 pm
content: Quote from: JL34 on November 28, 2020, 11:03:42 amThat is a job for boost converter.I think MC34063 fits perfectly, add inductor and 21R shunt. You can control it with PWM or in analog way. The output can go up to 40V and it can serve as voltage or current source.That is$3.5for 50 chips.
Advice on converting a battery powered LED lamp to mains  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: L555BAT
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2021, 08:23:47 am
content: Hi, I hope this is posted in the correct place..I have a lamp which features 3 candle effect LEDs, each powered individually by 3 x 1.5v AAA batteries. I'd like to convert this to something that I can plug into the wall.I thought that using a spare laptop charger might be useful for a power supply (is it?)Can anyone advise on how to go about this? What might the circuit diagram look like? I suspect that I need to:1) Reduce the 19v from the laptop charger to 13.5v (4.5v * 3) - How is best to do this?2) Wire each of the lights in series in order to supply 4.5v to each of the bulbs. From my limited knowledge the same current will flow through each bulb but the voltage will be divided between the three?Very much a beginner so wanted to ask your advice on this. Thanks in advance.Please see the attached images.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2021, 08:46:48 am
content: Welcome to the forum.Those lights have very low power consumption, a laptop charger would be overkill. It would be much easier to wire them in parallel and power them from a 5V USB charger.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2021, 08:55:13 am
content: Quote from: Gyro on April 02, 2021, 08:46:48 amAgreed. A diode could be added, to reduce the voltage if you're really paranoid, but 5V will probably be fine..It's a bad idea to connect anything other than plain LEDs (no flicker effects, flashing, colour changing etc.) in series because the voltage drop will change. The current is probably low enough a dual op-amp and potential divider could theoretically be used, but that's just overcomplicating things.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2021, 09:26:31 am
content: Yes, a series diode(or even two)might be a good idea. Cheap USB chargers tend to head towards 5.25V when lightly loaded. Anything will do within reason, a 1N400x being the most common.Those candles are designed for normal battery voltage range (they work with NiMh too) so would normally see around 4.8V (fresh alkalines) down to around 3V (discharged cells). An ordinary silicon diode will drop around 0.7V.

author: L555BAT
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2021, 11:25:24 am
content: Many thanks for the help, I think I'll go for the 5v USB charger wired in parallel and see how I get on.
Advice on designing hardware interaction between an MCU and a host for beginners - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rayan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 16, 2023, 11:57:27 am
content: I am a beginner in electronic design and I am currently learning to read datasheets and draw schematics . I am interested in designing hardware interaction between an MCU and a host. Could you please advise me on some key considerations, such as voltage compatibility? Are there any resources available for beginners, or a complete guide to designing electronics for beginners?

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2023, 06:13:45 pm
content: If the MCU and 'host' can be the same SBC, you might look at the Raspberry PI 4 and, ideally, one of the starter kits. The PI acts as an MCU in terms of wiggling pins and working mechanical things but it also runs Linux which provides a high level interface with code written in high level languages like Python, C or even Java.There's quite an education in these kits and all code is providedhttps://www.amazon.com/s?k=raspbrerry+pi+starter+kitThe Raspberry Pi 4B is extra (I would go for the 8GB variant). You need a monitor (HDMI), keyboard, mouse (USB) and microSD card (128 GB).https://www.amazon.com/s?k=raspberry+pi+4+8gbYou could also consider the Pi 400This setup allows very high level control of the IO pins. You could set up the Pi with a Berkeley server socket and control the Pi from anywhere on Earth. You might need a hole through your firewall for a specific IP address in order to reach the Pi from beyond the LAN. But it's doable...

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2023, 08:52:34 pm
content: Quote from: rayan on September 16, 2023, 11:57:27 amThis is so ill-defined it smells of being LLM output.The OP should readhttps://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/library-2/good-questions-pique-our-interest-and-dont-waste-our-time-2/or similar
Advice on fixing flat cable? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fedaalis84
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 10:50:24 am
content: I need to fix this flat cable, but as you can see sand paper does not work well. Does anyone have any recommendations on getting the copper pins perfectly exposed?I think I have enough cable lengths to make one more attempt, and then if unsuccessful I will need to buy a new cable..

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 10:57:54 am
content: I successfully scraped the plastic off using a sharp knife/razorblade.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 11:50:07 am
content: +1. Stick it down on a hard surface with double sided sticky tape to support it, then scrape with a slightly curved blade in an Xacto handle or similar so you can control the contact point to work on the tracks in the cable individually. Don't let the blade dig in, and mark a line across the cable and backing surface to guide you how far to scrape. It may also help to rough up the insulator surface with a fibreglass pencil (far more controllable than sandpaper) to key it enough that the scalpel blade doesn't skid over it.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 12:01:22 pm
content: Frankly, just buy a new one. It's not something special or expensive, $2 at most. As of fixing if desperate for quick fix, place something hard underneath and scrape insulation with scalpel.

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 01:55:47 pm
content: And if you're done, sand it down / polish to a shine (1000 grit wet).All these grooves are not making contact...
Advice on getting alround / usable logic level MOSFET - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: hneve
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2016, 08:47:48 am
content: Hi, I have now been using half my day here browsing and googling for a nice cheap logic level mosfet, and now im so confusedI've been reading dozens of tutorials and stuff about MOSFETS and upsides and downsides of using then.Could someone please hand me a nice part number of a cheap 3.3V and 5V logic level mosfet that i can stock up and play with, I'm green when it comes to mosfets and just want a little stock maybe to get more familiar with them. ebay links much appreciated.

author: jeremy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2016, 09:12:35 am
content: You need to decide how much current you are going to be putting through them. A mosfet with a threshold of say 1V would probably struggle with an amp (depending on the package), whereas a "5V" mosfet could handle tens of amps.Here is a good starter:https://www.adafruit.com/products/1794

author: picandmix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2016, 09:29:38 am
content: A low cost and common one is the logic level FDP7030; typically under one euro.It has a low on resistance, you just need something like 220R to its base and 10K+ from base to 0v.[urlhttps://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/FD/FDB7030BL.pdf

author: Alex Trofimov
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2016, 11:17:28 am
content: For me, searching something about electronics for half a day is not long at all. :-)For example:IRLML2502 - 4A/20VIRLML0030 - 4A/30VFDS6680 - 11.5A/30VAll N-channel, logical level input.There's a ton of other good ones on the market.)If you need something more powerful, maybe you should use some high power MOSFET. If it have higher switching voltage, use something for level conditioning like an additional logic level MOSFET.

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2016, 11:55:20 am
content: Go to distributor (Digikey for example) and vendor web sites, theyhave tools to allow selection and see costs while doing it. You canset the parameters, package, and look at a table of solutions withcosts.Regards, Dana.

author: hneve
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2016, 07:27:09 am
content: Thank you all, for your suggestions.I just have to mention that someone who wanted to remain anonymous, probably due to generosity issues, have sent me a sms that we can meet and he'll have a bag for me, first bag was supposed to be free, but i offered a beer. Be wary of free "bags" .. lolIRLZ44 's for free ( or a beer), that a nice deal right ?

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2016, 10:22:53 am
content: Small signal - BSS123, BSS84Large signal - IRLML2502, IRLML6402Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk.
Advice on high-speed signal for clock line - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Sarcarean
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2019, 09:16:05 am
content: From my MCU I have a 96MHz clock going to a global clock input pin on a FPGA. The distance between BGA pads is about 25mm.Does anyone have any advice on what I should do to ensure a proper / clean clock signal?I've been told that I may need to use a vibration absorbing resistor in series with the PCK_0 line.Thanks in advance for everyone's feedback

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2019, 09:20:34 am
content: the resistor would actually be for EMI,Route it like a 50 ohm controlled impedance trace if single ended, or a differential 90 ohm trace if differential.The resistor right at the source of the clock signal would be to reduce the amplitude of the noise the trace is radiating, and act as source termination.

author: iMo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2019, 12:57:02 pm
content: The series resistor is usually something like 22ohm, 33ohm..50ohm.Avoid right-angle bends (best rounded) and vias, the clock's signal return path shall be straight and continuous as well.
Advice on HNC course in Manchester  UK - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Joy at MCS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2014, 04:56:01 pm
content: Hello Everyone,I would like to get my HNC ( maybe even HND) in Electronic Engineering. I did consider Biomedical but I wasn't sure what you could do with a biomedical engineering degree.Does anyone have any suggestions of good schools around the Manchester area? Any advice would be highly appreciated.Thanks for help.Joy

author: andy_silicon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2014, 07:05:46 pm
content: Joy - best of luck.Huddersfield University was renowned for solid theory / practical Electrical&Electronic engineering HNC/HND about 20 years ago( IEE accredited ).UMIST is an option.I'd suggest you contact the IET and see if they have suggestions nowadays.
advice on HP Agilent E3648A bench power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Ronald5256
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 19, 2013, 11:42:36 am
content: Hi all i am new to the forum and am just setting up a lab i was looking for a bench top power supply and was offered a HP Agilent E3648A is this a good power supply to start out with ? thay go for around £800 on line (google) so it sees like a good deal for £150the spec seems ok but advice is welcome thanks lots

author: oldrose
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2013, 09:14:38 am
content: Simple answer is yes, its a good deal and a fine power supply.New you'd be spending more to get a made in china supply with it's interface and build quality issues.You've made no mention of the condition, reliability of the seller or test/return policy so all comments are added with that caveat.As you're just setting up a lab spending the smallest amount possible until you really understand why you need feature x is a good idea. One you know you need a power supply with a certain number of Volts or amps or programmability then you'll be convinced of the value of individual supply. For the first one, a couple of amps up to 20V seems reasonable so the Agilent is probably overkill in terms of features but you'll use it for a long time. If you can afford the 150 quid without sacrificing on other equipment like a multimeter or 'scope, go for it.

author: Ronald5256
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 09:55:00 pm
content: Thanks for the advice i have had a good look at it and it seems to be in good nick no marks and is so cleen it is like it is just out of the box it is 20v 5amp max and after looking at the vids dave has put out is seems like more power than i will need to get going but i see it as a good investment in the long run i have most of the kit as i work in the mobility trade /dc motors/power modules/and the like so i see it as a side step to start to work with lower voltage gear i have some fluke gear 110/87 but i am on the look out for a good scope.
Advice on large battery for remote CCTV - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jackster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2015, 07:26:30 am
content: Hi all,So I am in need of a battery or two to put into a shed for CCTV over night (will be left on 24/7).The 2 bits that need power are a CCTV camera and an access point.They draw just under 500mAh together.So I was thinking of getting 2 12v 12Ah lead acid batteries.That would give us enough for 24 hour, would replace the battery every day (this is not a long term thing...)Can then charge it overnight/during the next day.So what charger to get?I don't want to spend anything over £10 as the batteries are already eating into my budget.Already got a powerful 30A 12v supply in the house that is always on, so could I use one of them solapanel regulators to charge the battery?Something like this?http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solar-Charge-Controller-Panel-Battery-Regulator-Safe-10A-12V-24V-UK-STOCK-/360684563165?pt=UK_Gadgets&hash=item53fa79aaddWill be useful if I do then get a panel or two on top of the shed...Any other ideas?

author: cosmicray
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2015, 03:04:59 pm
content: Quote from: Jackster on February 01, 2015, 07:26:30 amAre these sealed lead acid batteries, the kind that you is in large lanterns or children's toys ?Those kind usually have a data-sheet that tells you maximum charging current, etc. Also, and depending on the battery specs, you may not want to draw the battery all the way down. I have a system that uses flooded lead acid batteries, and I always pull them for charging at 50% of the rated Ahr. Trying to use a 12 Ahr battery for 24 hours @ 0.5 A may damage the battery. Check what the data-sheet says for that particular type as to depth-of discharge vs life.
Advice on setting up a beginners lab. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Sebzy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2017, 10:25:11 pm
content: Hi All looking for some feedback on my first serious stab at beginners lab setup for my very very small apartment so multi function and size is an issue.Primary stuff I want to focus on is security focused like interfacing to I2C, SPI, CAN and RS232 and various audio/rf related projects, you know simple circuits.What I have so far- Hantek DSO1060 Handheld Digital Scope 60 MHz- Tektronix DMM912 Multimeter- TENMA 72-10495 PSU 2CH, 30V, 5A, Adj- HAKKO FX-888D Soldering Station- HackRF One.- Raspberry Pi 3.One of the last things is a logic analyzer with I2C, SPI, CAN and RS232 decode. So was thinking of this one "Hantek LA5034 34CH 500MHz USB PC Digital Virtual Logic Analyzer" but am having problems deciding.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2017, 10:32:01 pm
content: If you want to dip a toe in the water, you could pick up one of those cheap 8 bit USB logic analysers on ebay and use it with open source Sigrok Pulseview. It would get you I2C, SPI, CAN and RS232 for virtually no cost.
Advice on setting up an ESD station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: wardenclyffe
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2012, 03:20:45 pm
content: I have read many of the ESD related topics on this forum and some deal only with ESD mats, tools, or wrist straps. I was wondering what the bare essentials are for setting up a decent ESD work station. Do I only need a bench mat or should I invest in a floor mat as well? What about ESD safe tools/furniture - are they worth the money or a load of garbage? How about ESD shoes? Basically, I would like to know what people have experienced in the past regarding ESD stations and try to get an understanding of the range of tools from the bare minimum to the extravagant. I have read conflicting information online so I am hoping the EEVblog community can help me out.One last question...is it acceptable to ground an ESD mat to the retaining screw in home wall outlets? There seems to be mixed opinion about this topic so I am interested to hear what you think. What other grounding options are available for home and/or lab use?

author: Short Circuit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2012, 04:41:45 pm
content: Antistatic mat is all you need as long as you deal with risks.For example always touch the mat before picking somthing from the table, or putting it there. This allows for discharge of your body before the part is put down. If the part is the first to touch the bench, then the mat is not going to prevent damage. Personally, I've made it into a habit to touch the bench with a finger before handling anything.Matting on the floor is another way to discharge before accessing the workstation, but then you also need ESD shoes or heelgrounders. And those mats are either too small for comfort or terribly expensive.If the oulet screw is earthed, then yes, you could use it to take ground for the mat. If you use common sense regarding electrical safety of course.However, more common is to use a standard mainsplug with the neutral and line pins removed. Mind that the wire is supposed to have 1Meg resistance.Most of the other antistatic stuff is for the procedurized companies. It's much easier to prescribe ESD safe tools than trying to write an instruction for using common sense
Advice on Small LCD video screens - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: prwiley
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2017, 06:58:31 pm
content: I want to incorporate some small LCD screens playing video into an artwork I am planning. I am familiar with basic electronics, microprocessors, etc., but I am suffering from a case of I don't know what I don't know in this video area.I wonder if someone could give advice on two issues (and any related ones I might not know about).1) Finding bare LED screens 4"-7" or so that can accommodate a 16:9 aspect ratio.Where does one source these? I have done some searching, but I not finding what I want -- a screen I can incorporate into my own enclosure. I don't need touchscreen capability, just a screen to play video on.2) What's needed to connect to Raspberry Pi.A Raspberry Pi 3 looks to me like the most cost-effcient way to playback video (if there's a better way, I'd love to hear about it). It has HDMI out. What's would be needed to get a bare LED screen of the kind noted above ready to hook up to a Raspberry Pi 3? Do I just need some kind of HDMI breakout, or is there some kind of circuitry needed between the LED screen and the HDMI output.Any help and suggestions gratefully received.

author: negativ3
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2017, 07:42:45 pm
content: https://www.seeedstudio.com/category/Raspberry-Pi-Display-c-110.htmlSome options...

author: DavidMenting
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2017, 07:50:41 pm
content: 4-7" sounds like smartphone territory. Grab the cheapest Android phone/tablet you can find that gives you adequate screen size and quality and you are done.It's going to take a lot of effort and expense to get a Raspberry Pi and a screen in such a nice complete package.
Advice on soldering SMD tactical switches  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 02:45:01 am
content: When I solder SMD tactical switches, I have a problem with them wanting to float on the solder. They don't sit flush to the PCB. This is causing problems with the buttons sitting cattywompus.Any advice on getting them to sit flush?

author: LexLabs
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 04:08:13 am
content: Quote from: JustMeHere on March 04, 2021, 02:45:01 amHi, (1) you can try using lesser solder paste. (2) If you're using a hot air gun to solder the components, you can use tweezers to hold them down while it reflows and later remove the excess solder with copper wick.

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 04:15:55 am
content: Do you perhaps mean "tactile" switch? Or is a tactical switch referencing some military application?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 06:19:56 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on March 04, 2021, 04:15:55 amMaybe they’re just ordinary tact(old) switches, but in camo?(That’s what most “tactical” gear seems to be: ordinary stuff dolled up in camo print.)

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 06:22:46 am
content: Quote from: JustMeHere on March 04, 2021, 02:45:01 amThe other things to check would be a) what’s the solderability of the terminals like? There was another thread on here about someone whose tact buttons were not reflowing flat, and it turned out to be tarnished terminals. b) reflow profile: if the tact button terminals are a much larger thermal mass than the other components on the board, they may not be getting hot enough soon enough. A different profile with a longer soak phase might help.

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2021, 02:06:57 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on March 04, 2021, 04:15:55 amThat's what happen when spell checker knows better.
Advice on the Uni-t UTD2062C - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Siehbi
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 06:29:42 pm
content: I have been considering the Uni-t UTD2062C scope for a while and apart from the 500MS/s sample rate it is almost on par with the Rigol DS1052E.What I would like to ask is: Does anybody have this model, does anyone have an actual manual that speaks about the functions and menus of the device, and is this hackable in anyway? This scope will be used for general stuff.I would like to buy something local in Malta.Thanks,SiehbiP.S. I just realized that there are other posts on this forum but i would like a separate thread for these questions if possible.
Advice request - Current measuring make before break circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: DrOnline
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 07, 2021, 03:08:04 pm
content: Hi guys,I'm running tests on panels of 10 boards. I want to measure the current drawn by these boards, all boards at once, by measuring the voltage across precision current measurement resistors.My plan is to make a fairly simple PCB to enable this feature. My requirement is that I want to use make before break logic - this makes it a bit more difficult.So the first pic just shows general connection, but doesn't include the measurement I need.The second pic - here I want to normally run with 1 closed, but then I want to close 2, then open 1, to measure current. Make before break.What is the best solution for this type of measurement? I was considering relays, but I would need 20 relays, which then needs 20 I/O channels to operate them... If it becomes too big of a deal, it becomes too expensive to develop, and I will just opt to run all current over the resistors at all times.

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2021, 03:24:00 pm
content: Why not just keep the shunt in circuit and have a relay short it when energised? No issues with break or make timing then.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2021, 03:46:25 pm
content: You could also use P-MOSFETS to short the shunts rather than relays. You'll also need some sort of level shifting for the gate drive, but that can be as simple as a pullup resistor to +12V and a N-MOSFET.

author: DrOnline
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 07, 2021, 03:49:44 pm
content: Thanks guys, I'll make a concept tomorrow, based on this, and see if I can make it work.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2021, 05:04:01 pm
content: Does switching out your shunt make that big a difference to your load?Redesign with a smaller shunt and leave it in circuit permanently?

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2021, 05:07:52 pm
content: OTOH PGAs with a low resistance shunt only get you so far before you loose the signal in the noise floor, so its quite common to have a series string of shunts for different current ranges, and to need to short out the lower FS current (higher resistance) ones when a current above their FS is flowing.

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2021, 06:57:10 pm
content: If your shunts are between a pass transistor and the pick-off point for the voltage feedback then you don't have to worry about the "burden" voltage.Since this is a test setup the power supply is part of it, you can easily modify it.
Advice soldering iron WT1010 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Freaky123
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 05, 2018, 12:38:09 pm
content: Hello,Currently I don't have a soldering iron at home, and basically use the tools from the lab at which I worked. There we have several expensive Weller soldering irons, and I'm used to those soldering irons. But since I'm doing more stuff at home lately I don't want to travel for simple jobs to the lab. Thus I want to buy a new soldering iron.I looked at several topics and at first wanted to buy a Hakko FX-888D, but because of the easier tip switching I also thought about buying a Hakko FX-951. Eventually I decided to go for the Hakko FX-951 with active tips, but then I noticed that the EU versions are way more expensive and hard to get. I have found a genuine version for around ~400 euro's with a single tip, without a metal tip cleaner.But then I started to look at the new Weller WT series and noticed that those are similar in price, and more available in Europe. I noticed an interesting set, the WT1010, which includes everything except a tip(or is the tip also included?). But the problem is that I couldn't find any reviews about it, and also don't know what to buy if I want to use the easy tip changing functionalities of the WTP-90.So my questions are as following:- Are there some people here using the WT-1010, or similar systems which could give a short review?- Are there other solutions in the same price range, which give better or similar results?- What do I need to buy in order to quickly change the tips of the WTP-90? (Barrel T0058765758 + XNT Screw M4 T0054487999 + Measuring tip K1131?) Or is this not available?Greetings,Freek

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2018, 04:18:32 pm
content: As you’ll see in the very many soldering station discussions here, for someone in Europe, you may want to look at Ersa. Hakko tends to be overpriced in Europe (Weller too, to a lesser extent), whereas Ersa is overpriced in the Americas.Consensus is basically to look at the Ersa i-Con nano and higher (the pico is only slightly cheaper, but is not ESD safe and uses more plastic). They have great performance, and the tips are cheap and last *forever*.
advice sought for replacing caps on '70's receiver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Dan75
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2020, 07:18:33 pm
content: Hi, i'm new here and a beginner in deeper understanding electronics.I am cleaning a seventies receiver, a Sony STR-6046A. I noticed that 2 electrolytic caps are starting to bulge.Because of this is de soldered them and googled them for specs. Nothing found so far. Because I think they are that old, there is no info to be found on the net inform of data sheets. So I am trying toi understand what is important to look at when one has components that are without specs provided and are to be replaced.I have this measuring device : MTester.https://tkkrlab.nl/wiki/MTesterThe 2 caps that I took out are Nichicon caps, blue and one has H7314 ( 35V 330uF ) and the other has H7322 ( 25V 220uF ) on itThey're positioned on the PCB with 2 others that seem ok. (no bulging)I do not know what the ripple current is and how to know if it is important in this case?Note; I do not have the correct service manual for this type receiver. The one I have (from the internet) does not have the same layout so therefore I do not know if I can use it in any way.

author: Dan75
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2020, 07:58:53 pm
content: 220uF cap reads; ESR 0,13 Vloss 1,1330uF cap reads ESR 0,10 Vloss 0,8Looks ok I think but because these 2 caps are beginning to bulge out, maybe it is time to replace?The unit has been sitting for years unused prior.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2020, 08:16:38 pm
content: Just get caps of equal capacitance and equal to slightly greater rated voltage and you will be fine. Electrolytic capacitors from 1975 are not going to be anything exotic, general purpose parts will work perfectly fine.

author: Dan75
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2020, 08:30:27 pm
content: OK, thank you. Will that account for most if not all vintage audio? Even in audio stage?Or is it because this receiver isn't a high end make.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2020, 08:37:46 pm
content: For the most part yes. Electrolytic capacitors are imprecise low-tech parts, modern ones are typically much better than old ones, occasionally the ESR is so low thatIt causes problems but it shouldn't be an issue in an amplifier. I wouldn't expect to find electrolytic capacitors in the signal path of anything high end.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2020, 12:56:49 pm
content: Also, if some are bulging or faulty, it's good practice to replace all of the same type while you are there to avoid having to come back again later to replace the ones you missed the first time.If a few are bad, it's likely the rest aren't far off too.
Advise needed for lora gateway  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2019, 06:18:18 pm
content: I'm not familiar with with LoRa Gateway, to learn I want to setup a small lora environment where i want at least 10 nodes (lora modules with sensors) to connect with gateway to submit data to server, frequency of submitting data is not too high. (Later i want to connect even more nodes like up to 200)I found different kind of gate ways on aliexpress like some are in box with Ethernet interface priced around $100 here, but others are like a (2) modules can be used with Raspberry Pi priced around $150(1)https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LG02-Dual-Channels-LoRa-IoT-Gateway-indoor-can-choose-433-868-915mhz/32904986476.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.4a0043240UoPf1&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_7_10065_10068_10130_10547_319_10059_10884_317_10548_10887_10696_321_322_10084_453_10083_454_10103_10618_10307_537_536,searchweb201603_52,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=1e448ed3-09e1-46e2-a340-770397592809-0&algo_pvid=1e448ed3-09e1-46e2-a340-770397592809&transAbTest=ae803_3(2)https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32830271395.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.233.27e362a5SBBAis&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0%2Csearchweb201602_7_10065_10068_10130_10547_319_10059_10884_317_10548_10887_10696_321_322_10084_453_10083_454_10103_10618_10307_537_536%2Csearchweb201603_52%2CppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=828d5331-6ee8-4ff7-9205-61cbd3c6a80e-35&algo_pvid=828d5331-6ee8-4ff7-9205-61cbd3c6a80e&transAbTest=ae803_3I want to know which way should i go to setup environment to start learning. thanks
ADXL343 - Trying to understand its resolution - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: skyjumper
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2020, 04:38:41 pm
content: I have read through the datasheet of the ADXL343 several times and Googled this question, but I'm still confused. I'm trying to figure out how to understand the resolution of an accelerometer when used as a tiltmeter, in particular to the nearest fraction of a degree. I'm looking at the ADXL343.I understand accelerometers only work as tilt meters when they are sitting still, otherwise I need a gyroscope. I also understand that they don't tell you tilt, but rather force, when sitting still from gravity, and that you get decimals of g as you rotate it. The ADXL343 has different ranges, from 1g to 16 g, and I think that means that if I set it to the 16g range rotate it 90 degrees I'll get a reading of 8g, is that correct?Then there is the number of bits, which I think means the resolution across the selected range. So if I use the 2g range and 4096 bits I can get a reading to the nearest ~0.000489g, is that right?Then, once I know that, how can I figure out how to relate g to degrees (or radians) so I can know the nearest part of a degree I can read?Thanks...

author: MK14
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2020, 01:17:08 am
content: Quote from: skyjumper on March 11, 2020, 04:38:41 pmNot really, as gravity is going to be 1g.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-forceSo, when your sensor isn't moving, you can change the gravity (inclination), reading, up to a max of 1g. (Not 8g).This links to a page, that has an application note. It seems to describe about doing this, in lots of nice details.https://ez.analog.com/mems/w/documents/4148/mems-inclination-angle-measurement-from-accelerationDirect link to app note:https://ez.analog.com/cfs-file/__key/communityserver-wikis-components-files/00-00-00-01-13/AN_2D00_1057.pdf

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2020, 06:54:54 pm
content: Earth's gravitational acceleration isapproximately1g, directly downwards. So you want to pick the lowest range which can read slightly over 1g without saturating, to have highest resolution. Usually this is the 2g range.Exact value of earth's gravitational acceleration depends on the place, but you see accelerations significantly exceeding 1g only when you move the thing around, applying acceleration.Then it's all about simple trigonometry - look at the sin, cos, tan stuff up if you don't remember it from school! A tip: arctan should be of particular interest.
ADXL375 offset register/Shock Threshold - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2015, 11:57:17 am
content: 1. I have to write offset register values in adxl375.On putting device so that x = 0g , y = 0g & z = 1gI get output valuesfrom adxl375 as; xreg = -14 , yreg = 15 & zreg = +34Now what should I write to offset registers of adxl375;a). Is it invert of each valueb). I read AN-1077 describing offset regsiter value of adxl345, it had mention values asX_CALIB = –(OUTPUT (X) ÷ 4)Y_CALIB = –(OUTPUT (Y) ÷ 4)Z_CALIB = –((OUTPUT (Z) – 256) ÷ 4)c). which of above I should choose2. I had to enable double/single threshold interrupt.I had read that this register is 780mg/LSB.Also datasheet says:"The SHOCK_AXES register specifies the participation of each of the three axes in single shock/double shock detection."How does it correlates to values in THRESH_SHOCK register.Is itTHRESH_SHOCK = sqrt( (dataX * dataX) + (dataX * dataX) + (dataZ * dataZ) )

author: hli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2015, 01:31:17 pm
content: Its b)The resolution of the result is 49mg/LSB, whereas the offset registers have a resolution of 196mg/LSB (see register description).For shock detection, look at page 26f of the data sheet. The shock detection works on the acceleration magnitude (which is the formula you have given). The SHOCK_AXES register allows you to supress some axes for the dection, and then your formula changes (if you use only one axis, then its THRESH_SHOCK=abs(dataX))
ADZK 949  ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mabar
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 12, 2024, 01:02:20 pm
content: looking for information about this chip:ADZK 949package: QFN14 (14pins)motherboard thomson A14-4SL64or the motherboard schematic.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2024, 04:27:58 pm
content: NB670, Monolithic Power, High Current Synchronous Buck Converter With LDO, 5V - 24Vin, 3.3V Fixed Vout, 6A, 3.3V 100mA LDO, marking ADZ, QFN-16:https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/documentview/productdocument/index/version/2/document_type/Datasheet/lang/en/sku/NB670/?srsltid=AfmBOooJ_piGSpCds1OFydIhOfeYfzNCnW3Aicq3k7othW1eh3iZCoymhttps://ae-pic-a1.aliexpress-media.com/kf/Sc943181d048d412aa90f511de3148206T.jpg(photo)

author: mabar
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 12, 2024, 10:12:53 pm
content: Thank you for your answer.how did you find it?i looked everywhere....according to the photo it's exactly that.i'll check tomorrow....thanks again.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2024, 11:14:30 pm
content: If you had uploaded a photo, I would have immediately recognised the manufacturer as Monolithic Power (because of the horizontal line).http://markingcodes.com/search/c/adzhttp://markingcodes.com/search/c/adzxhttps://www.google.com/search?q=filetype%3Apdf+%22absolute+maximum%22+adz+%22monolithic+power%22Also, it helps to see a photo of the surrounding components, plus a photo of the whole PCB, to get an idea of the part's function.

author: mabar
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 13, 2024, 10:03:37 am
content: Thank you for your reply.I'll post the photo.Thanks again.

author: mabar
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 13, 2024, 11:25:43 am
content: Thank you for your answer.I have another chip...39=6DG50I provide the photo.... I don't have better quality..Thanks again.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2024, 02:52:43 pm
content: http://markingcodes.com/search/c/39=
AEAT-9922 Magnetic Angular Encoder - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: anvoice
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2021, 12:04:21 pm
content: Hello, I have a small BLDC motor I wanted to convert to a servo by means of a microcontroller and magnetic encoder, and would like to use the AEAT-9922 encoder for this. However, looking at the application note (https://docs.broadcom.com/doc/AEAT-9922-Q24-10-to-18-Bit-Programmable-Angular-Magnetic-Encoder-IC-AN), I don't understand which of the two capacitors shown between VDDA and VSSA, and also between VDD and VSS, is 10uF and which is 10nF... Clearly one port is analog and one is digital, perhaps that's a giveaway, but not to me unfortunately. Could anyone clarify?

author: perieanuo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2021, 12:53:08 pm
content: 0.1uF should be as closest as possible to micro (he cuts high freq oscillations)put each one of 10u and 0.1u for each rail, closest possible, watch positive voltage rail width and layoutafter consulting the pinout from datasheet:but imho with one 10uF and 2x 0.1uF it will work in specsusually on those designs i put the big one (10u) then 100n AND 10n (for higher freq cutoff) for each voltage supply railin productions cost is almost nothing, everyone benefits (100uF damaged, chances 10nF takes the low-pass function is 90%)

author: anvoice
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2021, 10:50:44 am
content: Thanks for your reply! I will incorporate the MCU into the same board as the encoder, and there will be a power supply onboard as well. Is the VDD and VDDA the same in my case? Also I'm a little unclear about what your advice is: one 10uF close to the microcontroller (between which pins?), then a set of 10nF and 100nF capacitors between VDD and VSS as well as VDDA and VSSA, or is it one 10uF close to MCU and also a set of 10uF, 100nF, and 10nF between VDD and VSS as well as VDDA and VSSA? I don't mind going a bit excessive with capacitors, but wanted to make sure I get it approximately right. Sorry if I'm asking the obvious.

author: perieanuo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2021, 05:52:25 am
content: Quote from: anvoice on July 22, 2021, 10:50:44 amso,- first group:100n+10n near VDDA pin, second one: 100n+10n near VDD pin (and the GND 'track' will reach VDDA and VCC pins of course and those caps, GND plane is a whole new topic); those caps are connected one pole to VDDA, one to GND for the first cap group (respectively one pole to VCC, the other one to GND for the second group); the GND for VSS/VSSA will be in fact a single common ground plane anyway- 10uF (one is enough imho for aeat9922, but if you want to be covered, put 2x10uF, closest to VDDA and VCC pins ) closest possible to VCC pin, respecting some wider positive supply track than the signal ones, that's another topic also.

author: anvoice
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2021, 07:05:55 pm
content: Ok, thanks for the help!
AEC-Q100 vs ASILD - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2021, 02:12:00 pm
content: SOme IC are AEC-Q100 while some as ASIL-DWhats the difference?

author: sigma_xi
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2021, 06:06:19 pm
content: To my understanding, ASIL-D and AEC-Q100 are both related to dependability, but their meaning is completely different.AEC-Q100 is a standard specifying the quality of individual components to such an extent that they can be applied in the automotive industry without extensive testing (that would otherwise be necessary). Citing from Wikipedia:``Components meeting these specifications are suitable for use in the harsh automotive environment without additional component-level qualification testing.''ASIL-D is a classification of hazardous events that can occur in any part of your system, and is related to how you deal with them to avoid life-threatening situations. As such, "ASIL-D" is not a characteristic or standard of a single component. However, in order to meet the requirements of ASIL-D (or any other ASIL level) at the system level, the ICs used in your system have to provide certain functionalities. Take for example the NXP MVR5510AMBA4ES power management IC (which I randomly picked from DigiKey). In the general description section of the datasheet it says:``The VR5510 includes enhanced safety features with fail-safe outputs''. These fail-safe outputs help in achieving compliance with ASIL-D. Otherwise, you would have to include additional measures in the system to make the power management dependable.In a nutshell: AEC-Q100 is a quality standard for components, whereas components tagged with ASIL-D include additional functionalities that help you build a highly dependable system. In general, dependability is more than just reliability (i.e. component quality).