Soldering a 0.5mm pitch FPC connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: SolderOcelot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2018, 02:51:03 pm
content: So I'm going to try to solder a keyboard connector on a MacBook A1502 and it I'll have to solder 30 pins with (I believe) 0.5mm pitch distance.Is this doable without a heat gun? So just a soldering iron with a very sharp point?Any other tips will be helpful as I'm a beginner.

author: Sudo_apt-get_install_yum
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2018, 03:00:12 pm
content: This is doable, use really thin unleaded solder and lots of flux. You need a really narrow tip on your soldering iron!Forgot to mention, post a picture and it would be easier to give more accurate advice!

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2018, 03:09:19 pm
content: a too sharp point isn't necessarily the best, you need flux and maybe some solder wickhttps://youtu.be/5NSSsKfU4rA

author: SolderOcelot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2018, 05:14:34 pm
content: Quote from: Sudo_apt-get_install_yum on November 09, 2018, 03:00:12 pmCool! So could you tell me why unleaded solder would be better? I'm all for saving the environment but that aside.Quote from: langwadt on November 09, 2018, 03:09:19 pmWill be sure to check this out as well

author: Buriedcode
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2018, 06:00:51 pm
content: I think the point is that proper flux and temperature controlled iron is arguably more important than technique. I often see people talk about drag soldering on this forum like its some unique technique but with adequate flux, a decent (temp controlled with a smallish tip) iron it can actually be quite hard to make solder bridges. Regardless of whether you "drag", or touch each pin one at a time with a tiny bit of solder on your iron, doesn't make a difference, let surface tension and flux do the work. So yes, experience helps with knowing what tip to use, and what temperature, but there isn't anything magical or even skilled about "drag soldering".For connectors, you can of course use hot air, I worry about the plastic parts and try to shield them as best as possible. The connectors are designed to withstand the soldering profile of an oven, but with manual hot air, it can be quite easy to melt the plastic of the connectors given that their temperature is a function of hot air temp, air flow, distance from nozzle to board etc.. So if you can get your iron in there - I'd do it that way.

author: SolderOcelot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2018, 07:16:09 pm
content: Quote from: Buriedcode on November 09, 2018, 06:00:51 pmWell I don't have a heatgun anyway so it'll be the iron way. Just heat the pins and pull the connector then?I wanted to use desoldering wick to remove the connector but I've been told that's not a good idea.

author: Buriedcode
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2018, 01:38:29 am
content: I wasn't aware you had todesolderthe connector, this is actually more difficult. In this instance, if the connector is defective I would go for hot air, as it wouldn't matter if the connector is damaged in the process.Desoldering using an iron - I would flood the connector pins, intentionally creating bridges so you can heat them all up at the same time and remove the connector. Then mop up the excess solder with a solder sucker (desoldering tool) and wick. Unfortunately, many flex cable connectors have mounting pads at either end for mechanical stability. These are far enough away from the rest of the pins so that you cannot heat them up at the same time as the pins, so it makes removing then form a board a right arse without hot air.Do you have a photo of the connector in question?

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2018, 08:20:54 am
content: For a bunch of fine pitch pins, I prefer lots of flux and wipe or drag soldering. A 'big' chisel (about 1-2mm) is good for that, concave tip is probably the best though.You could use paste and hot air. I rarely use hot air because it usually takes longer and has more risk of blowing away other components.I messed up a design this summer and my punishment was to add 8 pin 0.5mm pitch J-lead with 30awg wire.

author: Sudo_apt-get_install_yum
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2018, 02:34:23 pm
content: Quote from: Faloude on November 09, 2018, 05:14:34 pmSorry, I’m not sure why I told you to use unleaded solder. What I meant to say was to use LEADED solder. It’s much better, easier to work with and gives better results.i Hate unleaded solder

author: EPTech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2018, 02:42:30 pm
content: Hi there,Do NOT use leaded solder mixed in with unleaded boards and components. You will create inter-metallic layers which can cause all sorts of unwanted trouble in the long term. I do not remember exactly what kind of trouble but I was thought in a seminar about lead free soldering. I only ever use leaded solder to repair old stuff for the same reason.Happy soldering...

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2018, 04:33:44 pm
content: Quote from: EPTech on November 12, 2018, 02:42:30 pmjust wick off the old solder, lead free is mostly tin so a little of it isn't going to make much difference when soldering with 60/40 or 63/37