Tool to replace ribbon cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2012, 04:41:01 pm
content: The ribbon cable on my PIC programmer is torn where the cable exits the case. I figure that I could enlarge the opening so the case won't pinch the cable and just re-terminate the ribbon cable on the existing connector on the board. The cable is longer than it needs to be anyway.I'm guessing there's a special tool needed to remove the housing off of the board terminated connector. Does anyone here know what it's called so I can pick one up? Or, alternatively, know of a delicate way to remove it. There's a slot on both ends and I can see the tab but none of my precision screwdrivers will fit down into it. Would the general method used to be simply to shove a tiny screwdriver into the slots and pop it off? I don't want to risk breaking the connector.EDIT:// I found a smaller screwdriver and popped it off. However, in the future I'd like to do this properly so I'm still interested in picking the tool up. I just need to know the name.Thank you in advance!- Jason

author: Mediarocker
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2012, 07:28:24 pm
content: I have always used a small screw driver. I didn't know there was a tool for that... LOL

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2012, 10:48:32 pm
content: If it's an IDC type connector, they are not meant to be crimped down more than once. Maybe a picture would clear it up?

author: jeroen74
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2012, 11:11:12 pm
content: I'm guessing it's this type of connector on the board:I think it's best to unsolder it, buy a new transition header as they are called, crimp it onto the cable (can be tricky, you need to protect the pins, another IDC connector is great for that) and solder it back in.

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2012, 11:40:20 pm
content: That was my guess too.Not really suitable for reuse - we not reliably anyway.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 08:28:03 am
content: I dunno about you, but i'd just desolder the header from the board, solder the ribbon cable direct and add some hot glue to make sure it sits solid.

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2012, 03:08:58 pm
content: Quote from: jeroen74 on November 02, 2012, 11:11:12 pmYes, it was one similar to that with the exception of the shroud that pushes the ribbon cable into the pins overlaps the soldered component.The quick repair was for an in-house programmer. It's an older one that they don't even make anymore so it's not a big loss if the thing craps out again shortly. My main concern was if I had to do a similar repair/alteration on a shipping product. I've been considering switching to using shielded ribbon cables to simplify wiring harnesses.This may be the excuse I need to make a case for purchasing one of the Metcal rework stations with the desoldering gun.Alternatively, I should be getting in a 3D printer soon and I could most likely make two small plastic tools to release the housing.

author: jeroen74
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2012, 03:15:19 pm
content: These connectors are not really meant to be unlocked again. Usually something breaks. There are versions out there that use a little piece of metal on each side to lock the two halves together, these can be unlocked more easily.If you want to remove it, remove the top half and the cable, then simply heat up each pin in turn and push it through the plastic. No need in trying to get it from the board in one piece

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2012, 03:31:15 pm
content: Quote from: jeroen74 on November 04, 2012, 03:15:19 pmI always try to get the component out in as good condition as possible. I had to pop out some 8-SIP resistor networks a while ago. Those things are assholes. I've proceeded to remove them from all designs and replace them with their surface mounted cousins. It isn't good enough that something works, but it needs to be easily repairable and modified for other uses.

author: jeroen74
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2012, 03:39:59 pm
content: Why bother getting an already broken connector out neatly?Plus the risk of damaging the PCB in the process...I probably would have snapped that SIP8 into a few pieces with a cutter so it's much easier to remove. It's a 5 cent part so why bother spending so much time?

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2012, 03:44:22 pm
content: Quote from: jeroen74 on November 04, 2012, 03:39:59 pmTrue

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2012, 03:55:52 pm
content: Quick n dirty method I used was to get a new one, and break the tabs that hold the top on and pop it off, then use the new one to crimp the cable into it again. Works for the first 2 cable changes ( Don't ask why they did not design in an actual 2 part connector in there in the first case, there was room enough) then you have to replace the bottom part. I normally just took a soldering iron and used long nosed pliers to pull the pins out individually as I heated them up from behind. Solder sucker to clean the hole afterwards and new socket in.

author: notsob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2012, 10:31:33 pm
content: If there is enough vertical clearance - replace it with a shrouded header, and use a standard pluggable header on the ribbon cable, that way you can just replace the ribbon cable part, (if you need to), in the future.