Repairing an Old Hameg HM203-6 (not 203-7) - No trace: FIXED - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2015, 03:45:33 pm
content: Finally got the dust off my Hameg I bought from a car boot sale about 2 years ago and forgot about it. I didn't have the space, then moved to a place where I had a garage, set up my little lab, plugged in the scope and checked there was a trace - which there was: good all still working!closed up for the night and came back next day with some probes donated to me. Hooked it up to channel 1 and to the test signal - power on: nothing.Tried to see if I could find the trace again, switched the triggering into AC, twiddled the trigger level till the Trigger LED came on yet no trace on screen. checked all button's like X10 mag, EXT trigger, all the daft things and still no trace.Remove the probe, knocked the coupling on CH1 to GND, which should produce a flat line and adjusted the X & Y positions to see if i could find a trace - alas: fruitless!The fact that the trigger LED comes on when I adjust the trigger level means that the signal is there. So I suspect that the display driver could be shot?I have found a service manual (English, kindly shared on another forum):https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B87O0bRBiC6fUS1lUkM4cGVUNmc/edit?usp=sharingusers manual:http://www.manualslib.com/download/563302/Hameg-Hm-203.htmland have found these posts:EEVBlog -https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/old-analog-hameg-20mhz-dual-channel-scope-died-on-me-where-would-i-start/- no conclusion to if he fixed it or not, have PM'd the OP.Badcaps.net -http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=28509Guy on Badcaps say that the tube may be FUBAR'd - is this likely from what I've described? It may not be a problem as I have a Kikusui Scope which is just a CRT with X, Y adjust. It works but all that appears is a dot - it needs some signals in the back (i'll post pics if anyone's interested?)I've added a pic attached of when it was working and stuck a sine wave into it.So has anybody else got any advice or had experience they can share fixing this scope? Would save some time.Cheers

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2015, 07:42:40 pm
content: QuoteFor sure, it is not...its very rareLook for bad/cold solders, that's very common on these scopes.Check the power supply .Be carefull with high voltage !

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2015, 08:52:33 pm
content: Quote from: oldway on August 14, 2015, 07:42:40 pm+1

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2015, 09:54:54 pm
content: phew well thats good to hear. Cos I really wouldn't like to break up the kikusui, its a nice tube and would like to turn it into a single channel scope as a project. Its got half the functionality, just needs a some x & Y inputs and its a scope!Yep will be careful around the HV, thats a given. What voltage we looking at? 1000V?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2015, 10:09:12 pm
content: Quote from: tron9000 on August 14, 2015, 09:54:54 pmNo.You must work carefully through the scope, first checking ALL PSU voltages are to spec for both voltage and ripple.From the low voltages the CRT voltages are derived, often by a switcher PSU, a common point of failure.This is not a repair to hurry, let us all have a chance to download the Service manual and do some study.You too.

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2015, 02:57:44 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on August 14, 2015, 10:09:12 pmno hurry, just wondered if anyone new off the top of their head.

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2015, 03:12:02 pm
content: Power supply is very simple, low voltages of + and - 12V and +152V.HV: -1975v....be careful, that is too high for multimeters, you must use an HV probe.

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2015, 08:26:52 am
content: OK, so I've fibbed: Its a 203-6 not 203-7somewhat embarrassing, but still managed to get hold of a schematic and there's really not a huge amount of difference to the general block diagram. I googled my scope and looked a the pictures and picked the one that looked closest to mine and took the PN, rather than note the model number down before I left it the other night.HAMEG HM203-6 service manual- most of its german, but all the schma is there.Anyway I tested some of the voltages the other night, I've made a video, just editing to length.But the jist of it is that I've tested the heater filament voltage, the intensity control voltage, and the filament to cathode (K ?) voltage and they all appear to be as expected.(If you look at page 13 of the PDF) I've been measuring them differentially with a cheapo-meter on the PCB on the back of the tube . So measuring between -1877V and -1900V you would expect a 23V difference - which is what I got. Along with 6.3V AC on heater filament and about 33V from intensity control pot. The focus contol is a bit tricky and need to think a bit more carefully as the control pot is part of a large string of resistors connected to -1900V and GND.So it think the best way of measuring this is to work out the voltage expected across the focus pot and measure the wiper from one end of the pot.your also probably thinking: "why the hell are you looking at the HV stuff first!?" - well why not, gotta start somewhere, plus it was the most easily accessible place to start! which is actually somewhat concerning: you'd expect the HV to be the LEAST accessible!Once I get the video done I pop it up here.cheers

author: firewalker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2015, 08:30:26 am
content: I had the same problem on my HM605. It was just a voltage regulator.Alexander.

author: firewalker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2015, 08:33:34 am
content: See bellow.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/just-bought-a-new-'toy'/msg67430/#msg67430

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2015, 09:16:48 am
content: Cheers firewalker, will check for that.

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2015, 06:58:42 am
content: First ajust intensity pot to max !

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2015, 08:00:49 am
content: Quote from: oldway on August 18, 2015, 06:58:42 amdid you watch the video?I'll give it a try, would have to hack or fashion a new spindle for it. But I measured the intensity signal and it was as expected or is that not enough to test it?Firewalker (Alexander) - I could not find that regulator and I also couldn't see any cracked joints on components that were in that area.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2015, 08:15:04 am
content: Quote from: oldway on August 18, 2015, 06:58:42 amGood spotting.Quote from: tron9000 on August 18, 2015, 08:00:49 amAnd you must, it is essential to have the Intensity control working.Better still, replace the Intensity pot.Not watched your vid yet, will wait until my broadband is under less load.

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2015, 12:14:31 pm
content: Measure output voltages of horizontal and vertical amplifiers (or vertical and horizontal plates voltages)....beam is perhaps almost out of the screen and this can be a reason why don't see nothing on the screen.

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2015, 01:42:04 pm
content: That would be another place to check.Would you say points D1 through D4 on page 13 of HM203-6 schematic?

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2015, 06:13:18 pm
content: Yes, D1 to D4 on the crt board but be carefull because there is more or less -2000V on this board.

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 09:48:03 am
content: I measured points D3 & D4 last night and fitted a spindle to the intensity pot (I removed the old spindle and just stuck a self tapper in the hole where the spindle was! Does the job!) and checked the intensity voltage levels whilst adjusting the the pot as well as testing the focus voltage levels whilst adjusting the focus pot.Intensity range (measured between -1900V and pin 5 on back of CRT PCB) - 22V to 42V DC approxFocus Range (Measured between -1900V and pin 6 on back of CRT board - 5.4V to about 12V DCD4 to 0V - 88V DC approxD3 to 0V - 64V DC approxNOTE: on the schematic, pg. 12, y final amplifier - points D4 and D3 are noted below each trace asca +75V. so does this mean they should be in the region of 75V (as in circa 75v)? If so, then that's a bit ambiguous!also another vid in the pipeline btw

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 12:37:37 pm
content: DC values on a schematic usually are referenced to a specific scope setup for those values to be valid.RTFM

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 04:02:48 pm
content: Adjust vert. position pot. to have D3 and D4 more or less 75VAnd D1 and D2, how much voltage ?

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 07:42:33 am
content: Quote from: oldway on August 19, 2015, 04:02:48 pmYeh I just read the users manual and it says to have the adjust vert pot to mid way, so I'd have had it just off centre probablyD1 & D2 - unfortunately, I haven't had time, got called away for Daddy duties. Should only take a couple of seconds to test, so will probably find out tonight.Interesting thing though, Iread both manuals and only the HM203-7 has a section on operating voltages and Trouble shooting:HM203-6 User manualHM203-7 users manualin the 203-7 manual, trouble shooting section I found a single sentence that may be relevant:QuoteSo if I do get the correct plate voltage on D1 & D2 and re-test D4 & D3 after adjusting the vert adj pot to centre, then that's probably the next best place to look.

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2015, 08:05:04 am
content: OK Measured D3&D4 again - set the vert adj to mid way and yep: both were about 75V DC. Further twiddling and managed to get both to be 75VD1 & D2: set the CH1 hor. adj. to mid way and both were about 68V DC.So this does lead to a possible problem on the CRT circuit as the user manual says.I've noticed on in the 203-7 schematic and manual it mentions a 22V blanking signal (supplied as a difference between the -1900V and -1877V). It looks like a delayed sawtooth or slow rising square wave form what I can gather.without another scope, I think I'm stuck!

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2015, 08:53:12 am
content: QuoteNot yet, but often the case with CRO's you need another to fix them.Will the CRT show a flash of a trace, dot or any signs of life when powered off and on, Intensity at max?Does this Hameg have a Beam Find button?Does that work?

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2015, 09:23:52 am
content: Quote from: tron9000 on August 21, 2015, 08:05:04 amHave you tried in XY mode ?With spot centered (D1 = D2 and D3 = D4), with -20V between cathode and wehnelt and I think you have the -1900V accelerating voltage (even if you have no way to measure it...you need a HV probe or a Avometer analog multimeter to measure that voltage), you should see a spot !The only think you did not check, it is the heater continuity of the CRT.Descharge first the HV capacitor, desolder on the crt board one of the 2 heating's wires of 6,3V coming from the transformer and measure the resistance between this wire and the place where it was soldered.You must find a low value resistance, more or less 18R.

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2015, 11:39:22 am
content: When powered on I can see a glow inside the tube -does that count? probably not!I can disconnect the connector from the CRT PCB from the main PCB altogether, rather than desolder and check it.Will try it in XY mode and see if that yields anything interesting.I'm sure this scope does not have a beam find button.There is sweet Fanny Adams when I turn it on and after it warms up, even with the intensity all the way up. No flashes or dots or anything.To measure the HV, could I just build a big pot. div using say 10M 0.5W resistors? I know its a bit Heath Robinson...

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2015, 02:19:50 pm
content: Ok, if you see the heater glowing inside the tube, that's allright, you don't need to measure the heater resistance.The Hameg scopes don't have a beam find button.You could try to tweak the VR501 trimpot and see if you have something on the screen.Be careful, use a well isolated screwdriver because this trimpot is at high voltage (-1900V)

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2015, 02:42:21 pm
content: Best crack out the VDE set I bought!

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2015, 08:28:55 am
content: Why do you waste your time with useless and not interesting videos?I asked you:QuoteWhy have you not done this ?Want you really to fix this oscilloscope?We are trying to eliminate one by one all possible causes for which you have nothing on the screen:- The supplies have been checked and are OK- The high voltage seems to be OK (no way to measure it)- Heating of the CRT looks OK- The spot is at the center (D1 = D2 and D3 = D4)Other voltages you measured have no interest because it can not help to have something on the screen.It is almost impossible that the CRT suddenly become defective.The only possibility would have been a defective open filament, but it glows so it's OKThen, only the cathode voltage / Whenelt may still be responsible for the problem.You measured this voltage and it is - 20V at max brightnessThis is correct but without the blanking pulses, it is too much negative voltage for having a spot on the screen.That's why I asked you to vary the trimpot VR501 with brightness potenciometer at maximum intensity so to reduce the cathode voltage / Whenelt and see if you can see something on the screen.If it's ok, that's mean that you have a blanking pulses failure.Why do you not do what you are asked to do ?

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 25, 2015, 11:17:00 am
content: Totally agree with this Oldway!Quote from: oldway on August 25, 2015, 08:28:55 am

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2015, 12:29:42 pm
content: Quote from: oldway on August 25, 2015, 08:28:55 amright I'm trying to create a log of what I've done here and also practice a bit of video editing.Quote^^ right there, this is not a progression, this is just a record!How many people search forums for a solution to there problems? I'm doing this off my own spare time and trying to contribute here, pay a little back in the form of some findings, instead of just lurking! That such a bad thing?secondly, cos I got lead down a different avenue which actually lead to the problem! not that I don't appreciate the help, but where's the fire? does it look like I'm in a rush to fix this? does it bother you that much that I'm figuring some things out on my own?I decided to actually TEST the -1900V by measuring all the voltage drops across each resistor in the chain for the focus adjustment: and low and behold, came out at94V ish!, which meant my original assumption was flawed.Checked the 480V~ from the transformer: was present and was only after I left it on for 10mins I found that I could smell burning dust. I found that the opto: IC501 was really hot, took it out and tested the diode: reading came back as 0.133V both forward and reverse bias. Powered it on with the OPTO out and re-measured all the voltages between R507 to R521, guess what:1900V!So all I need is a newCQY80Nto see if that fixes it and find out what else could have been taken out and why it caused the -1900V to collapse, if that is the culprit.

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2015, 09:08:14 pm
content: Right, just an update:IT'S FIXED!!It was the opto-isolator, IC501!Cheers to oldway & tautech.As promised, the finer details, if your interested:Entry #1 - Beginning & diagnosisEntry #2 - Further Diagnosis - more fruitless searchingEntry #3 - Culprit found!Entry #4 - Fixed!

author: BFX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2015, 10:55:48 pm
content: Good JobIt's nice unit I've also repair similar one recently. But it's not nice documented as yours.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/hameg-hm-203-double-trace-problem/msg484236/#msg484236I have also next two from ebay for 50euro for repairing. It's relax for me

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2015, 08:08:21 am
content: Quote from: BFX on September 06, 2015, 10:55:48 pmcheers! Your problem seemed a little more complicated than mine. Notice you mentioned that you used a home made pulse generator: what's it based on?

author: BFX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2015, 01:05:57 pm
content: tron9000It's very old function generator around XR2206 chip.

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2015, 08:04:32 am
content: Quote from: BFX on September 08, 2015, 01:05:57 pmI'm thinking about building my own round one of those chips. Just something I can whip up and stick in a box.

author: BFX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2015, 10:39:55 am
content: tron9000I think better one is MAX038, but it's also vintage chip.

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2015, 03:12:32 pm
content: Jeez maxim..I'd have better luck finding a lesser spotted flying pig!

author: Stephan_T
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2015, 07:42:10 pm
content: Quote from: tron9000 on August 21, 2015, 02:42:21 pmHi Chris,are you aware, that the bare metal screw you use as a shaft for the intensity pot, is no where near VDE approval? According to the schematics, that pot also operates at high voltage (-1900V).In one or two of your videos you showed how you found vagrant solder on the board. This could have likely been the root cause of the problem. Can you imagine what happens, if such a piece of vagrant solder finds its way between one of the contacts of the intensity pot and your conductive shaft screw?Watching your videos gave me the impression that you underestimate the danger of high voltages.Before you end your repair session, you may also check some of the adjustments. Especially the trim pods (VR501/VR502) around the intensity control may need some attention. The service manual should contain a procedure of how to set them.

author: BFX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2015, 02:29:04 pm
content: Quote from: tron9000 on September 09, 2015, 03:12:32 pmNo problem at allhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IC-MAX038CPP-IC-GEN-WAVEFORM-HI-FREQ-20-DIP-NEW-GOOD-QUALITY-D23-NICE-QUALITY-/271936371457?hash=item3f50abbb01http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAX038CPP-High-Frequency-Waveform-Generator-MAX038-/180860239105?hash=item2a1c1c3d01

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2015, 08:50:35 am
content: Quote from: Stephan_T on September 11, 2015, 07:42:10 pmFar from it - I fully understand the dangers of high voltages, if I didn't I wouldn't be posting this, I don't think the afterlife has internet!The mod I admit was on the fly and am relying on the insulation of the pot shaft, to which I am now compromising by jamming the screw in there. This will be replaced by super-gluing some plastic dowel in there instead.I do note in the videos that there is high voltage and that you should proceed with caution and I always power off, make my test connections and then power back on and hardly even measure my test points directly with the probes.I'll have a look at trimming those pots, but to be honest I think the intensity is unchanged, I'll have a read of the manual.Thanks BFX for those links!

author: misterno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2017, 06:38:48 am
content: Dear friends,i have a Hameg HM203-7 and before 2 days starts rolling the trace.I did a video just to show the fault. Can you advise me where to start from?TIAVIDEO->https://youtu.be/0DVfRPy4IUI

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2017, 03:08:10 pm
content: The failure seems to come from the power supply.Check the small 1A bridges, they often fail with an open diode .... The rectified voltage is then too low for the regulator with a lot of 50Hz ripple.

author: misterno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2017, 07:08:18 pm
content: Quote from: oldway on December 07, 2017, 03:08:10 pmI open the case and i disconnect all the wires. I took both the pcb's in my hand and do measurements. I 've checked all the important capacitors with capacitometer and i found oneelectrolytic not connected well. I weld him well now. I also checked all the diodes and transistors. By my fault i 've destroyed one BF472 transistor.I hope to replace it by late tomorrow.I didn't check the small bridges you mention though. So i will do it tomorrow and post the results.

author: misterno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2017, 06:03:13 pm
content: UPDATE:I did change the broken BF472, i also measure the diode bridges too. I don't have a HT tester to measure the high voltage but i managed to measurealmost all the voltages from +12V to -12V, 135V, and 541V in the point says 500V. I 'm up to 41V as you can imagine.What i noticed so far is that when i hit the tube gently near the neck, i get the trace line. When i try to increase the intensity, the line becomes brighter and after disappears.Is it any possibility to have a damaged tube? Can i do anything more about it?TIA

author: Calambres
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2017, 06:42:36 pm
content: Reseat the tube connections and/or clean them.Be very careful with the HT!

author: misterno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2017, 06:24:19 pm
content: Quote from: Calambres on December 11, 2017, 06:42:36 pmI did that but no luck. Any ideas how to test if the crt tube is broken?

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2017, 07:06:17 pm
content: Are there any resistors mounted on the tube connector?Check them. generally high value resistors can go open circuit and affect bias voltages on the tube.

author: misterno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2017, 08:02:36 am
content: Quote from: IconicPCB on December 12, 2017, 07:06:17 pmThat's a good idea. I 'll do it later at evening. Thanks!

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2017, 08:49:41 am
content: I once had a CRO that drove me nuts with CRT behaviour so after mucking with it on and off I bit the bullet and reworked most of the EHT area, as with most CRO's it's the area of circuitry that's under the most strain, heat and voltage.The high value resistors drift and go OC and any more than a Mor so are my first suspects. The DC restorer HV caps need be looked at too and they can be a bit hard to find from normal sources as 2-5KV caps are not that common now.Last I bought were HV blue dipped disc ceramics from Aliexpress.If the LV and HV (70-200V) rails are clean and to spec go looking hard at components under stress in the EHT (1-3KV) area as they have the greatest influence on CRT performance.

author: misterno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2017, 07:41:28 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on December 13, 2017, 08:49:41 amUPDATE: I did check the resistors near tube, capacitors, diodes. I did find an open 22ohm resistor R3027 near optocoupler. I did change it but no luck.Also i did find almost all the voltages corect except HT that i didn't have appropriate probe to measure it.Is it possible to show me from the schematic, which components should i change too and from in EU i can order them?Here is the schematic of my HM-203-7 ->https://mega.nz/#!FdZmTa6a!BbGdrKCm1gZLqHX_HqLlNPFyzrR7gzN4L9H-KmAN0uA

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2017, 08:11:55 pm
content: Quote from: misterno on December 11, 2017, 06:03:13 pmThis would seem to point to a strong clue.....too much current drain on the EHT.Components to check are in the EHT section of the PSU and those subjected to the EHT supply on CRT section of TB-Board. You may need a HV meter to check the differential voltages in parts of that circuit.The voltage differentials between elements of the CRT are crucial for a stable and predictable display.I had the differential zener fail in a CRO (D312/313) once and it upset things immensely.Work slowly and methodically through tests and replace any component that you suspect faulty.

author: misterno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2017, 10:39:19 am
content: I spend all the weekend trying to fix this device. I take out ALL transistors and measure them with a transistor meter. All was good.Then i did resistor measurement by took on leg in the air and i found that one of them (R3019 in PSU page) was 470K instead of 3K92 as you can see in picture.I 've measured ALL the electrolytic capacitors too. Everyone was OK. Same with the diodes and big nf capacitors too.I 've checked the pages and mark the components with yellow pen.After that, i changed the faulty resistor, i did re-assembling all the PCB's, wires, etc.Now when i switch on the device, i get very low intensity screen and no trace line at all.The good part is that now the screen don't affected by small hitting the neck of the tube as did before repairing.Today (i hope) i will do voltage measurements and post the results here.

author: misterno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2017, 07:45:41 pm
content: UPDATE: Finally i did fix it. Now this old but very useful oscilloscope, works again. As i 've tested almost all critical components, i found a broken wire that looks well, an open resistor in PSU and finally a small ball of weld which made a short circuit to the HT area.Component tester works well too. I have a small difference in 1KHz test signal and i would appreciate if you can tell me if i can adjust it well.Thank you for your replies so far.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2017, 09:36:07 pm
content: Quote from: misterno on December 19, 2017, 07:45:41 pmWell done.How do you know the 1 KHz is out ? Have you put a counter to it ?Some CRO's can be adjusted/trimmed to 1 KHz but for most use it doesn't matter.The fast edges are what matters and the approximate frequency and amplitude are only needed as sanity checks.Near enough is good enough for the probe cal output.

author: misterno
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2017, 09:41:47 am
content: In this case i will prefer to close the cover and start using the device. Thank you again for info's and help.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 20, 2017, 02:25:30 pm
content: Congratulations. Take pride in your repair and enjoy the scope.