hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Arduino Spot Welder with variable weld time 100ms -450ms - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: anishkgt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2016, 07:01:32 pm
content: Thanks to a bunch of good souls who helped me with the oscilloscope here, i've made a custom Spot welder Microcontroller.More Info on the project.https://georgehobby.wordpress.com/2016/11/09/arduino-based-simple-spot-welder/

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 15, 2016, 08:47:49 pm
content: Interesting and well done, but without any schematics or additional infos thisseemsonly a selling post. If you want you could share some details with us

author: yngndrw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2016, 10:15:58 pm
content: Quote from: mcinque on November 15, 2016, 08:47:49 pmBut he's already provided details about the operation in the blog post as well as posting the full schematics on the forums:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/choosing-a-tvs-diode/About the only thing that hasn't been posted is the firmware but all the required details for this has already been posted. His time has to be worth something.

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 16, 2016, 06:40:47 pm
content: Didn't notice that thread and didn't know it was related to this.
Arduino test program for anAM27ls01 RAM  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gkmaia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2020, 10:17:07 pm
content: I am trying to set a very simple arduino program to test just ONE address of a AM27ls01 or SN74S301.As the data output is an open collector I have connected it to a 5v supply by a 300ohms resistor hoping for when data out put is low it gets shorted to ground and I get a LOW signal. Or when data is HIGH the collector is open and I get a HIGH signal. But no matter what data I store or read I am always getting a HIGH data output.I am also trying to follow the write and read sequence provided by the datasheet.So I am not sure where my code is wrong.#include <SoftwareSerial.h>#define CE1 14 // A0#define CE2 15 // A1#define CE3 16 // A2#define WE 17 // A3#define XA0 2 // D2#define XA1 3 // D3#define XA2 4 // D4#define XA3 5 // D5#define XA4 6 // D6#define XA5 7 // D7#define XA6 8 // D8#define XA7 9 // D9//#define XA8 10 // D10#define DI 11 // D11#define DO 18 // A4int ret = 0;void setBus(){digitalWrite(XA0, HIGH);digitalWrite(XA1, LOW);digitalWrite(XA2, HIGH);digitalWrite(XA3, HIGH);digitalWrite(XA4, LOW);digitalWrite(XA5, HIGH);digitalWrite(XA6, LOW);digitalWrite(XA7, LOW);}void clearBus(){digitalWrite(XA0, LOW);digitalWrite(XA1, LOW);digitalWrite(XA2, LOW);digitalWrite(XA3, LOW);digitalWrite(XA4, LOW);digitalWrite(XA5, LOW);digitalWrite(XA6, LOW);digitalWrite(XA7, LOW);}//////////////////////////////////////////////////WRITE//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////void write(){//WRITEdelay(500);// BIT TO WRITE /////////////////////Serial.println("Bit to write");digitalWrite(DI, HIGH);delay(500);////////////////////////////////////// ADDRESSSerial.println("Set Address");setBus();digitalWrite(CE2, LOW);delay(500);//WRITEdigitalWrite(WE, LOW);//RELEASEdelay(500);digitalWrite(WE, HIGH);delay(500);digitalWrite(CE2, HIGH);delay(500);clearBus();}//////////////////////////////////////////////////READ//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////void read(){clearBus();//ROWSerial.println("Set address");setBus();digitalWrite(CE2, LOW);delay(500);//READ DATAint sensorValue = analogRead(A4);float voltage= sensorValue * (5.0 / 1023.0);Serial.println("Read voltage");Serial.println(voltage);Serial.println("Read data");ret = digitalRead(DO);Serial.println(ret);delay(500);//RELEASEdigitalWrite(CE2, HIGH);clearBus();}//////////////////////////////////////////////////SETUP//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////void setup() {Serial.begin(9600);Serial.println("START");pinMode(XA0, OUTPUT);pinMode(XA1, OUTPUT);pinMode(XA2, OUTPUT);pinMode(XA3, OUTPUT);pinMode(XA4, OUTPUT);pinMode(XA5, OUTPUT);pinMode(XA6, OUTPUT);pinMode(XA7, OUTPUT);pinMode(DI, OUTPUT);pinMode(DO, INPUT);pinMode(CE1, OUTPUT);pinMode(CE2, OUTPUT);pinMode(CE3, OUTPUT);pinMode(WE, OUTPUT);digitalWrite(WE, HIGH);digitalWrite(CE1, HIGH);digitalWrite(CE2, HIGH);digitalWrite(CE3, HIGH);clearBus();write();delay(500);read();delay(500);}void loop() {}
Arduino Theremin oscillators frequency wobbles - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Tom1997
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 09, 2015, 01:58:36 am
content: hello all,I am currently working on the project from this site:http://interface.khm.de/index.php/lab/interfaces-advanced/theremin-as-a-capacitive-sensing-device/If you scroll down you will find a video of the theremin.(only works on firefox for some reason) You will notice a wobbly effect. The hand clearly changes the frequency, but I found the same wobbled effect of the notes. They seem to be constantly changing. So even when my hand is not there, the frequency changes.There are also schematics and source code on bottom.I thought that it would be better if there was a single note/frequency. I am trying to demonstrate how a theremin works. Thus, is it possible to get rid of this wobbled effect and get a single note. I have no clue why that effect is there in the first place.My second question is: I built his circuit on a breadboard and hooked it all up. My only problem is that the sound is much quieter than what he has. Is there any way for me to increase my volume.Thanks.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2015, 02:14:14 am
content: Looks like they are toggeling the speaker pin in software in the main loop.This will always produce a dirty tone because the timing is never exact (since the MCU has to go do other things like interrupts at random times.)

author: Tom1997
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 09, 2015, 02:19:00 am
content: so is there any way i can circumvent this.I'm terrible at Arduino code. I'm more of a hardware guy.

author: Tom1997
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 09, 2015, 03:25:54 am
content: Instability is a problem, i acknowledge that. But there is something else in this circuit. It's an intentional vibration of frequencies. The tones vary between 2 notes. It's not just drift that's causing it. It's built in. I'm trying to eliminate that and make it a single tone.It's so obviously wobbly that its not only such drift thats causing it. The video clearly shows it.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 09, 2015, 03:41:51 am
content: I haven't looked at the hardware or software - but I've chatted with Martin (the contact on that page) by email a few times about other projects. He's a nice guy, and doesn't bite
Arduino to PC wifi communication method - Any ideas? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: balage
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2020, 02:05:32 pm
content: Hi,I am planning to create one or more Arduino based data acquisition devices. I bought an Arduino MKR WiFi. I understand the basic examples, but all of them are working with publishing data on HTTP.The Arduino based device should collect data, and only upon the request of the computer based software (will be a LabVIEW VI) the arduino sends all the stored data to the computer. The readout time period can be between a few seconds and a minute. The Arduino can be a server and can connect to a wifi AP.What kind of communication should I use? I have not much clue about network communication things, sorry.űThanks,

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2020, 02:29:46 pm
content: I couldn't find a concise document on how to use the device.In general, I would prefer to use a TCP connection (Berkeley Socket) and set the board as a server waiting for a connection from a client (the PC in this case). Sockets are nice because they allow you to connect to your own host for development/debugging. You do this by writing a bit of code for the server and starting it. This code looks for a connection request at the host IP address and some socketport number which you pick. Then you write a bit of client code that establishes a connection to the IP address and port.https://www.paulgriffiths.net/program/c/sockets.phpThe web server examples provided for the board are a start in the right direction because they set up a socket at a port (usually 80 or 8080, sometimes elsewhere) and accept a connection for a single transaction. But that's because the HTTP protocol doesn't want to deal with persistent connections.There is code here for making socket connections:http://www.linuxhowtos.org/C_C++/socket.htm

author: balage
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2020, 08:02:06 pm
content: Arduino is nice because prototyping is fast, but it also hides low-level things from the user.So in the background there must be TCP socket connection, but who knows. I have found the read() function that can be used to receive raw data.https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/WiFiNINAClientReadThanks for your interpretation!
Arduino, UDOO Wireless Communication  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: otpowell
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2015, 08:23:24 pm
content: Ok, I want to control some things wirelessly. I have a billion different things in my amazon and banggood shopping card. I'm looking to minimize a bit and find out the best components to buy that's the least hassle free and efficient too. I'm thinking about using an arduino UNO, hooked to a CC3000 board that communicates wirelessly with a teensy or arduino micro/ESP8266/relay combo. Should I go with this component CONFIG or should I use bluetooth or different wireless modules? I was looking at bluefruit, zigbee, xbee, NRF24L01, bluegigA ble113.. Any of these better than my CC3000, ESP8266 combo? Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks in advance..

author: jasonwu
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 01, 2015, 06:43:14 am
content: There are many arduino wireless solutions. It depend on your application. If the application is indoor and tons of data, the wifi is good choice. ESP8266 or CC3000 is a good choice. If the application are remote and cloud based, the GPRS/3G module is good choice. But you need to pay for the data.If the application are outdoor and small data, there are RF based on sub-G band(433MHz, 868MHz or 915MHz) are available. Uart port integrate and turnkey solution, such as XBEE, RFM12 or RF4432 module.http://www.appconwireless.com/PRODUCTS/showproduct.php?lang=en&id=7

author: otpowell
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2015, 11:58:08 am
content: Quote from: evb149 on April 01, 2015, 07:01:23 amThanks for such an extensive and in depth reply! I appreciate the information greatly. By hassle free, I guess I mean compatibility/component problems. I hate it when I buy something only to find out I have to buy something else to get it to work better or correctly. I just wanna buy the two devices and be able to do a lot. I know some of these devices have limitations and others do more than others, like the cc3000 board for example you can interface directly with that board. Ok maybe I don't know what I'm talking about but I'm learning.O.T.Electrical & Electronics EngineeringSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Arduino Ultrasonic Sensor HC-SR04 Full Build, Code and Explanation video - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dusnoki
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 26, 2017, 11:44:15 pm
content: I'm really excited to show you my first real standalone Arduino project. An ultrasonic distance indicator with LED lights and a buzzer.Schematic -http://sudokin.com/go/ussc/Arduino Sketch -http://sudokin.com/go/ussk/Hope you guys like it

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2017, 12:46:14 am
content: Nice job; clear description on the video.One constructive comment: the music in the video is louder than the voice by a fair bit. If it turn the volume up enough to clearly hear your voice, the music is too loud.

author: dusnoki
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 27, 2017, 01:09:07 pm
content: Thanks so much.Sorry about the music. Must have slipped my mind to normalize it. Will do it next time for sureCheers

author: dusnoki
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 06, 2017, 09:53:28 am
content: Can someone who is well versed in Arduino coding take a look at my code and see if my logic holds up (especially for the last part with curentMillis, previousMillis and interval) because I don't know if there is an easier way to do this (sound the buzzer at different frequencies and intervals for different proximity values). Thankshttp://sudokin.com/go/ussk/
Arduino Uno R3 3x3x3 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2014, 09:37:50 pm
content: O right all this might see somthing to newbie but yeaht that what i am i just got into arduino and i started this 3x3x3led cube so yeah here is the link to the video there you can finde the codes and the circuitYoutube url:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqJ2mdalbPAYoutube video:

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2014, 11:30:10 am
content: Thanks and thanksvfor sub

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2014, 04:15:50 pm
content: Remove the "S" out of HTTPS and put a space before it and the video will appear in line in the forum.Forums don't seem to be able to deal with the https links for youtube.
Arduino Vin Question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jbushnel
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2014, 10:09:38 pm
content: I am hooking up a 12V power supply to my Arduino. The regulator will produce a steady 5V for the board and the 5V pinout... Will the Vin also be regulated? If not, should I run it through a regulator before using it for other parts of my project? Thanks!

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2014, 10:13:08 pm
content: The vin is regulated only if your external power supply is regulated. What Arduino board are you using? You can find its schematic and see what's happens to the vin on the board.

author: retrolefty
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2014, 10:28:26 pm
content: Quote from: jbushnel on December 22, 2014, 10:09:38 pmThe arduino rates the external DC power as:Input Voltage (recommended) 7-12VInput Voltage (limits) 6-20VThe lower the voltage the less power (thus heat) the on-board 5vdc regulator will need to dissipate. Vin is the same as the external power voltage minus a series polarity protection diode. This is a nominal 1 amp diode so the overall current draw for the board, any digital output pin loads, and anything wired to use the Vin voltage should be under 1 amp or so.

author: jbushnel
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2014, 10:33:14 pm
content: Really? Well I have a 12Vdc 1000mA power supply since thats what they said here:http://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/WhatAdapterI hope it's alright...Well in what cases should you have a regulated power supply? Cause if I don't need it for the other parts of my project, I won't worry about it!

author: retrolefty
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2014, 11:04:31 pm
content: Quote from: jbushnel on December 22, 2014, 10:33:14 pmIt will be fine.
Arduino Voltage Sense Help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: challen908
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 15, 2022, 11:30:09 pm
content: Hey all,I need some help, I have a board that runs off a 12V batter and is supposed to sense a car pedal throttle voltage. I have one signal line from the throttle and as the pedal pushes down the voltage on this sense line rises. I have fed this line straight into an Arduino Nano every analog pin and Arduino code will trigger a digital pin at specified voltages between 0.25V and 0.6V, anything outside that range needs to be shut off.The problem is that when I connect the sense line to the A0 pin of the Arduino I get voltage drop on the sense line itself. For example the sense could be 0.4V and once its connected to the Arduino its drops to 0.25V. How can I prevent this, I can't have any, or next to none voltage drop on the sense line?I can upload a schematic but the sense line is straight into A0 pin, Arduino is powering from 12V step down just fine

author: challen908
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 15, 2022, 11:31:20 pm
content: Do I need an op-amp or something to amplify the sense signal? I would like to keep the Arduino so that I can change the range of voltages I want to trigger and read the signal

author: challen908
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 15, 2022, 11:54:39 pm
content: based on the schematic the comparator is not connected, and assume the VIN goes right into the A0 pin on the Arduino with only a pull down 8.25k resistor

author: ozcar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2022, 01:07:20 am
content: Do you know how the VIN voltage is produced?You could try it without the 8.25k pull down resistor, or see what effect a resistor to ground alone has on VIN.Assuming nothing silly like programming the A0 pin as a digital output set low.

author: challen908
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 16, 2022, 01:13:18 am
content: Yeah nothing silly in programming, and the VIN is coming from the vehicle, going through a potentiometer, and is LVDS, based on my customer’s info, he’s being really vague with me on the source
Arduino+Sim800L help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sufiz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 08:12:49 pm
content: Finally I'm able to run arduino and gsm 800LOn 115200 serial , 9600 gsm bauds..Now few problems..Im able to-Send SMS-retrieve received SMS to serial window by giving one index at a time-Only some AT commands responds on serialLike AT ,ATE ,ATA,ATH,ATE..ANY other commands like AT+xxxx or ATDxxxxx don't work, and give me errorFor e.g :ATD12345678; i press enter and get the following reply"AT+ERROR"All i wanna to do is few simple tasks using Arduino mega+sim800L :1-Received command through SMS & Reply confirmation SMSOR2-Make a call when some pin goes high or lowIve used most of the libraries available on internet , and the only working one is cristianteib ..Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 08:47:58 pm
content: I have been playing with them here and I found it very helpful to use a terminal program and a serial console cable to send and receive commands and data to and from the SIM module so you can physically see the text going back and fourth, and then you can implement those phrases with whatever micro you are using. the SIM800 is default to 9600 baud but i believe will auto adjust to whatever you send it. Unfortunately we found the timing of the actual bits could vary and we would miss the occasional bit at different speeds. Make sure you have a receive routine and buffer that can handle variations is rate and timing. Unfortunately I am no expert in that and had to rely on somebody else here to write that for the project.
are all foil capacitors (of the same material type) the same? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: CopperCone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2018, 02:30:27 am
content: How does their voltage specification effect their performance other then physical size. Is there anything to look out for when designing analog filters?i.e. 60v part vs 600v part. I'm looking at PPS and polypropylene types.Is it ok to use the high voltage rated parts at low voltage, or do they have some kind of parasitic qualities?I'm looking at audio and ultrasonic frequencies.I'm not sure how they actually make them at a higher voltage. Thicker foil? Does that mean more dielectric absorbation?

author: Audioguru
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2018, 02:43:29 am
content: A high voltage foil capacitor is large and probably old (vacuum tubes used high voltages).Its large size causes its inductance to be high which might cause a modern circuit to oscillate, reduce high audio frequencies or pickup interference. Use modern small lower voltage metalized plastic film capacitors instead. The Epcos capacitors I use are 5% tolerance and rated at 50V or 63V.
[Solved] Are balanced diode gates still used in practise? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ballsystemlord
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2024, 02:12:43 pm
content: Hello,Recently I was discussing how to measure the settling time of op-amps and it was suggested to follow Mr. Jim Williams method via these PDFs:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/what-is-the-derating-of-a-1mohm-oscilloscope-input/?action=dlattach;attach=2472593https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/what-is-the-derating-of-a-1mohm-oscilloscope-input/?action=dlattach;attach=2472595Mr Williams notes that a diode array will work well to produce a nice flat topped wave. The problem is that his part number is obsolete and, if you look on fleabay, quite expensive.The substitute part would be a set of 4 independent, matched, schottky diodes. Searching through digikey, mouser, farnell, and eliminating incorrect results (and non-ROHS parts), I found that only parts under the UC3611 name were of the configuration I would need.So with only one part number being active, the question comes up, are balanced diode gates still used in practice, or has some other design replaced them?Thanks!

author: iMo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2024, 02:18:41 pm
content: You may use the 4x cheapo 1N5711 instead of the HP5082-2810 in the bridge there (almost the same diodes afaik).PS:

author: ballsystemlord
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2024, 02:27:11 pm
content: It suddenly occurred to me that the diodes would be in the bridge rectifier section of the various websites. I was looking in the diode array section. Ooops.Thanks guys.

author: ballsystemlord
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2024, 02:28:06 pm
content: Quote from: iMo on December 31, 2024, 02:18:41 pmAs mentioned above, they have to be matched. AFAIK, that means either I have to screen them or buy a 4 array configuration of them.

author: electron_plumber
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2024, 04:34:31 pm
content: If you find any app notes on best practices, let us know. I was recently reading about themhereand may try them out in a gated integrator board soon.Most resources I've found are from the 60's and 70's days of analog computing (e.g. attached).
Are body temperature PTC heaters a thing? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Mr. Scram
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2019, 03:03:55 pm
content: For a small project I need to heat something to approximate body temperature. As I want to keep it as simple as possible, I'm thinking of PTC heaters. Just hook up a source and you're done. I know they're not the most accurate, but I don't think I need very accurate temperatures to make this work. The lowest temperature PTC heaters I can find are 40 degrees Celsius which should work fine, but I'd think there would be some kind of market for body temperature analogues. Am I just looking in the wrong places or am I barking up the wrong tree here?
Are button caps compatible or standard in any way? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2018, 02:48:19 am
content: There is an ALPS part for a joystick:SKRHAAE010https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/SKRHAAE010?qs=%2fha2pyFadujsha1AHtmPuY9%252b2B860iii2WwlU65Ky1DdU4Zm1uZL3g%3d%3dDoes anyone know of a small button or top for it? Mouser said that Alps has nothing!
Are FAN7888 and CSD17506Q5A a good combination for a BLDC driver? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Chumanista
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 09:59:31 pm
content: I an building a driver for this motor:http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=21478I want to use an FPGA and rotary encoders.Would the CSD17506Q5A be a good transistor and the FAN7888 a driver for it?What else would you suggest?Is there anything important I need to keep in mind during designing?
Are flex PCB current tolerances the same as regular boards? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Marmotta
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2018, 02:24:32 pm
content: I'm starting to design my first project using a flex PCB and was wondering if anyone knew how much current they can support? I've seen a bunch of different online trace width calculators online, but they all seem to be targeting regular PCBs. My project needs 5V @ 3 amps max and was wondering if that is something a flex PCB with a wide enough trace (e.g. 3.5mm) would be able to support or not.

author: sanwal209
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2018, 10:29:13 am
content: Yes, It will with 1oz copper

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2018, 10:37:53 am
content: OSHPark have just started offering flex , some specs herehttp://docs.oshpark.com/services/flex/

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2018, 10:51:02 am
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on December 04, 2018, 10:37:53 amUsing printed solder mask, not coverlay, which could be an issue for some assemblies exposed to flexing.

author: Marmotta
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2018, 03:10:58 pm
content: Thanks for the responses. I'll knock something up in Kicad and see how much OSHPark would charge for a one-off (or three). Assuming there were no issues with the board design, I'd probably be looking at making about 10-20 of them, so other makers might be more suitable, as the prices drop dramatically when quantities are scaled up a little.
are fully differential amplifiers cranky? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 07:13:22 am
content: I want to design some audio filters using fully differential amplifiers. bandpass filters.I used ti filter pro to design them... and I am curious how easy are fully differential amplifiers to actually implement?Like, I threw together some of the single ended bandpass filter on a breadboard and I found that they worked pretty well.Are fully differential amplifiers more prone to oscillating/more difficult to use in other regards?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 09:14:12 am
content: I've used them before, fT 200MHz or so I think it was. Worked fine, ground plane, good bypass, followed recommended procedures. Though I didn't have a scope at the time that might've been able to show if there was a problem or not...Why the heck would you use one at audio? Do they even make them that slow (~20MHz GBW)?If nothing else, a fully differential filter will be literally double the hassle, for no gain in performance. Such is the price of filtering two complementary but otherwise independent signals the same way.Tim

author: han
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 09:39:05 am
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on March 25, 2014, 09:14:12 am200Mhz?Type? is it cheap?i only have 2MHz GBW
Are fuses okay or a good idea on BLDC phases? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Boscoe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2020, 06:50:38 am
content: I'm planning an ambitious ebike build including designing and making my own ESC, system controller, systems bus and all the accessories like speedometer.I'm in the planning and viability stage (based on budget). Going through my risk assessment my main worries are li ion cell fires and ESC failures while travelling at 100KPH. One particular ESC failure mode I worry about is the output MOSFETs failing short and shorting two phases together essentially locking up the motor until the MOSFETs finally melt or the motor windings do. I'm thinking of adding a fuse on at least two of the windings to disconnect the motor in such a scenario. This can save the motor and the skin on my knees. I can't see why not but could this cause any problems from a control perspective?

author: Phoenix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2020, 10:05:22 am
content: There is a joke in power electronics that the MOSFETs are there to protect the fuses. Basically a semiconductor will go open (fail spectacularly) on fault current before the fuse does; unless the semis are massively oversized.Will you have any series inductance besides the motor?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 22, 2020, 10:19:06 am
content: If there is any protection that disconnects the motor, it should disconnect all windings simultaneously. Not to say MOSFETs won't melt, they will remain dead short. If any MOSFET fails I doubt very much that any of motor fuses will blow. Another MOSFET in the phase will short too and short the ESC power completely. Not to say winding becoming open is a danger on itself.

author: uer166
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2020, 12:02:55 am
content: If you are using field weakening techniques to increase max. speed without crazy pack voltages, then the safe state is a 3-phase short across the entire motor. Otherwise in case of a control failure the back-emf voltage will become unlimited, go to a very high value (above pack), back-feed into the pack (through body diodes, or simply shorted FETs), possibly overcharging or destroying the pack.You'd think a 3-way short on all phases at highway speeds will cause unlimited current, but that is in fact not the case due to inductance of the windings causing current phase lag, preventing the BEMF voltage from causing high currents (the actual maximum depends on specifics of the motor).This really has to be designed as an entire system, the choice of using field weakening or not will directly define your battery pack voltage requirements, and therefore your motor control strategy, and therefore what kind of safety you need to add for contingency.The addition of the fuses may make it safer, or it may also make it more dangerous, there is not enough information to make the call.
Hakko T18 tips / Xytronic compatiblity - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 09:15:00 pm
content: Hi all,I'm quite happy with my cheap LF-1600 Xytronic and its tips but there are shapes that I cannot find anymore from my local suppliers.So searching on the web I saw that the LF-1600 iron seems a Hakko FX-888 clone, the iron stick, the heater, the front assembly and the tips seems identical, also in their various shapes.There isanother threadabout using Hakko tips on a Xytronic but before ordering themI wonder if any T18 tip user can confirm my tip measurements.Are T18 tips identical to the one in the picture?Many thanks to all in advance!

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2019, 07:43:19 am
content: Your measurements are essentially identical to what I measure on the older 900 series Hakko tips, within +-0.05 mm. The T18 series is the modern descendent of the 900 series, and they are backwards compatible (on hakko irons, at least). They are slightly larger in OD (about 6.80 mm) and just a smidge shorter in the depth of the hole (about 23.0 mm), but they index at the same spot on the shoulder. They probably fit your iron, but you might want to check that the OD is going to fit.

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 04, 2019, 08:03:01 am
content: Thanks a lot!

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2019, 11:35:40 am
content: Well, I tried..Hakko T18 tips are almost the same but the cavity for the heater is just a little bit shorter so the tip base doesn't rests on the metal part.If tightned in place, the tip would rest on the top of the ceramic heater and I guess this is not good, also because when the tip it's heated it expands a little bit and this would cause an additional force on the ceramic heater.Just for reference for anyone else interested in this.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2019, 05:43:13 pm
content: Maybe add a steel washer behind the Hakko tip when used on the Xilothingie?

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 17, 2019, 07:10:46 pm
content: Yes, could be a solution.Xilothingie

author: codaroma
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2022, 11:01:06 am
content: How about changing the nipple to a Hakko one too?https://mektronics.com.au/products/hakko-nipple-for-fx-888
Are halogen bulbs constant current @ rated watts? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: r-mm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2021, 01:07:13 pm
content: I am working on some auto wiring projects and wondering if once warmed up halogen bulbs (aka common headlights) can be considered constant amperage loads for a given voltage?ie: 100watt bulb @ 14 volts (normal running car) = 7.14amps constant while illuminated.

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2021, 01:20:15 pm
content: Incandescent bulbs areroughlyconstant current at very low frequencies (<1Hz). Voltage step change produces an immediate current change dI = dV/R, but with delay the changed power produces a temperature change which shifts the resistance so that current goes closer to the initial current before the voltage change.This isn't an accurate constant current load by any means but the tendency is sometimes useful.Note the very strong lifetime dependency. Even fairly small overvoltage severely shortens the filetime (while increasing efficiency and making color temperature cooler)."12V" headlights are obviously actually designed for the slightly over 14V supply in a running car.

author: Alti
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2021, 03:52:50 pm
content: Google for "A primer on driving incandescent lamps".
Are monochrome (PAL) CRTs worth finding a home for, or common garbage? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2019, 03:10:50 am
content: I have a stack of green and white phosphor CRTs that I've collected or repaired. They have been clogging my hallway for a year or so now, I want to get rid of them.Are these things worth finding a new home for, or should I just take them to my council dropoff for disposal?

author: Muttley Snickers
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 11, 2019, 04:51:23 am
content: A member was recently asking for a similar composite computer green screen in the buy/sell/wanted section so they might still be of some use for his projects.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/wtb-composite-video-monochrome-computer-monitor-50-hz-field/

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2019, 06:01:38 am
content: Monochome CRT displays are getting quite hard to come by, it's not unusual for a working one to fetch $50-$100 or more depending on what it is and where it's located. The smaller security monitor types tend to be cheaper and less desirable but they still have value. They are fairly rare these days but the number of people wanting one is also relatively small and shipping is difficult and expensive. Still I would certainly not throw them away, there are loads of retro computer enthusiasts out there.That little Electrohome one is cool, the only Electrohome monitors I've seen before are in classic arcade games.

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2019, 08:32:50 am
content: Quote from: Whales on August 11, 2019, 03:10:50 amPlease don't call them "CRTs" --- that's "computer person speak"!The "CRT" is the big glass thing--- the gadget they are used in is a Monitor, or maybe if you really must, "a CRT display".

author: Mate_Well
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2019, 08:36:55 am
content: Hmm, i heard and seen some ppl use it as a very crude osciloscope, or take the flyback hv transformer and build ozone generators or some tesla coils

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2019, 07:13:43 pm
content: They are much more useful as complete monitors, flyback transformers are easy to find, nobody is making CRTs anymore.I've been using cheap Chinese 5" B&W TVs to make small vector monitors for my FPGA based vector arcade games.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2019, 09:54:51 pm
content: Thankyou everyone for your opinions. I'll try a bit more to see if I can rehome these.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2019, 10:19:53 pm
content: Try posting on the buy/sell section here, or look around for some local retro computing or vintage tech forums. I'd be happy to take a few off your hands but I'm on the wrong side of the world and I've probably already hoarded enough CRT displays. They're a cool vintage technology though that has gone the way of Nixie tubes in that nobody is making them anymore and supplies are dwindling fast as they get scrapped.
Are PHYs required. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ziggyfish
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2017, 12:28:01 am
content: I want two MCUs to integrate over an MAC interface.Do I need to have 2 PHY chips (MAC -> PHY <-> PHY <- MAC) connecting these two, or can I just use the MAC directly (MAC <-> MAC)?The reason I ask this is that I have an option of either using Ethernet/SPI/I2C. As Ethernet is faster, and there most likely will be a lot of traffic between the two chips, it seems that Ethernet is the best option is this is possible.ThanksBrendan

author: kaevee
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2017, 12:44:26 am
content: If both MCU's have MII interface(s) or RMII interface(s), you can connect them directly (without PHY). Both of them should have same MII(RMII) interface(s).Venkat

author: abyrvalg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2017, 01:52:06 pm
content: Pay attention to RX/TX CLK signals - the same common clock must be used for both RX and TX sides of link. Some MCUs like STM32 can generate and output this clock on a dedicated pin - use one MCU's clock output for both in this case, don't clock each side locally, they must be in sync.
Are that fake Omron G3MB-202P SSR bad or Ok? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Miyuki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2021, 11:11:51 am
content: Hi folks.I have a question about those cheap SIP SSR modules marked G3MB-202P some of them marketed as real Omron (even when they have G3MB replaced with G3MC series)Even some distributors have them stockedAnd they are on all Arduino SSR modulesI don't like when they try to look like original ones, but when they just clearly tell they are generic ones I'm fine with itThe question is are they usable or garbage?
Should the inductance of an inductor rated at Idc=2A and Irms=2A be the same? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: onemilimeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2015, 07:39:39 am
content: As shown in figure below, some inductor manufacturers rate the inductance at a specific RMS current (Irms), whilst some rate at a specific DC current (Idc).For a saturable inductor, is the inductance measured when a DC current Idc = 2A flowing through the inductor the same as that measured when a RMS current Irms = 2A flowing through the inductor?Thanks.

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2015, 07:55:06 am
content: Quote from: onemilimeter on September 25, 2015, 07:39:39 amThe current ratings are not the measurement conditions for the inductance but for the maximum allowed current.The rms rating is based on the allowed temperature rise because of the losses in the copper resistance (in this case 50°C).The saturation current is the current when the inductance has decreased by 5% for this inductor. Most other manufacturers specify 10% or 20%.If you use this inductor in a buck converter, your output current is limited by the rms current, otherwise the inductor will overheat. The peak current in the inductor should never exceed the saturation current, but it can be higher than the rms current for a short period. If the current goes higher, the inductor saturates.
Are there a multilingual electronics dictionary? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: timofonic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2015, 08:18:55 pm
content: Hello.I would like to know if there's a dictionary about electronics terms, but multilingual.I have issues finding equivalent terms for some English terms in electronics, and I'm not sure if there's a database about that. This can be very useful for translating:- Documentation.- Software.- Essays.- Books.- ...Are there something about this? I'm unable to find it.Kind regards.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 07, 2015, 08:41:57 pm
content: Maybe I can help. As you can see from my avatar I an a Canadian living in Chile. If you need help with a translation into Spanish I am very happy to help.

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 07, 2015, 08:53:21 pm
content: Many engineering professors and leading alumni at universities and colleges (in most languages) will post essays on the .edu sites. From these, you can derive equivalent terms (if unique) and with a little luck, maybe you'll find a list. Wikipedia offers as well, topics in other languages when available in the left column. I have stumbles on quite a few Portuguese, Spanish and German person sites as well - many are very interesting! Good luck.I may post some other resources later, and if you're looking for Spanish, you may PM me with some specific's.

author: dom0
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2015, 09:17:18 pm
content: dict.cc has many, but mainly GER <-> EN.

author: timofonic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2015, 08:05:58 pm
content: @Lightages@Cliff MatthewsSince this is a public effort, I don't have problems about showing it. Despite it might reveal my usual nickname, maybe I'll change it here too (if possible).I'm trying to help at translating KiCad to Spanish. I have no clue about programming and understanding very basic Git usage costed me a considerable effort, but I'm going to have things more clear.https://github.com/KiCad/kicad-i18n/pull/21This effort is mostly a 1st try than a real one to contribute to KiCad, but I wanted some review about my changes to be sure about making it the best possible way. I did lots of wrong things, but nobody learns without failsThere's lots of work already done (60%), but I would like contribute a bit. I'm afraid of not being very efficient right now at it, but I hope to improve over time. My reasons are because I want KiCad to become more popular in Spanish countries and improve my English too.Maybe others might be insterested in adapting this translation to other Spanish dialects too, if there's some expressions used differently in other countries

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 05:07:12 am
content: Ya veo (now I see), so searching "Altium Curso español" would yield similar terminology - eg:http://www.slideshare.net/liberaunlibroupeg/altium-curso-espaol
Are there any differences between MEMS microphones or are they all the same?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Miyuki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 06:53:35 am
content: I have a question.Are all MEMS microphones more or less equal in performance (sensitivity and noise) as they hit the limits of physics? Or are there any significant differences?

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 07:54:45 am
content: na, there are good ones and bad ones depending what sort of quality audio / freq range you want.

author: Conrad Hoffman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 02:08:36 pm
content: I know Knowles has put more R&D into this than just about anybody. My first choice when I need such.
Are there any existing inexpensive open zigbee universal remote controls around? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: RidiculousRichard
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 19, 2012, 12:40:40 pm
content: Hello there,I was just contemplating starting an open (hardware and software) zigbee universal remote control. A quick google shows there are some commercial products out there but they do not scream 'easy to root' at me and are more expensive than I have been considering. There is the 'open remote' athttp://openremote.orgwhich would be ideal if you already have an existing device. I was thinking more of an inexpensive (inspired by the banking security devices) credit card sized device.Does anyone know of any established open alternatives to save re-inventing the wheel and being doomed to irrelevance by an existing equivalent project?Thanks everyone,RichardPS: My pre-conception of a universal zigbee remote control is:> 128x64 LCD monochrome reflective graphic display> ~12 push buttons> mini-B USB connector for firmware patching and alternate communication channel> Still debating and have not tested that practicality of two possible power sources:-a) 3V button cellb) small rechargable li-ion cell> Use the common, press the 'new connection buttons on both the remote and device to control' technique for establishing a fixed linkage between remote and device
Are there any TDA1557Q application notes or schematic from Philips or NXP? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2024, 09:20:25 am
content: The desktop has a small speakers' amplifier with TDA1557Q.https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/TDA1557Q.pdfIt is powered from the +12V of the PC power supply. In the last couple of months the audio started to have more and more CPU noise, up to the point that it became too much to be ignored. Found a power supply filter for car radios, which has a 0.6\$\Omega\$/1.16mH coil on a E+I mini transformer core, and the CPU noises go away after adding that on the +12V.The datasheet specifies at page 5 "c. the harmonic distortion at low frequencies can be decreased by connecting two diodes to ground at pin 12.". Pin 12 is some internal Vref. None of the online schematics I could find have any diodes at pin 12. Some are adding a 10uF to AGND, others are just let it float.It is also unclear if pin11, which is named "mute/stand-by", can be used to avoid the power-on speakers pop. Again, some schematics are just ignoring that pin, others are adding some 10uF+4k7 or so. Then, some online schematics have a series RC snubber network at the speakers output, others don't have it.The schematic in the datasheet does not address the use of pin 11 and 12 at all, shows them not connect.Couldn't find any Philips or NXP typical schematic, or application note, but I've only searched for this particular part number, TDA1557Q. I'm not familiar with the Philips audio amp ICs, and not sure where/what to search for. Because this stereo amplifier IC is very easy to use, the internet is flooded with absolute beginners blogs and wiring examples of doubtful quality.Where can I find trustworthy info/schematic/AN for this audio amplifier?

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2024, 09:43:19 pm
content: Added a 1mH choke on +12V, 2 diodes on pin 12, and a 10uF from pin 11 (mute) to AGND, with a 10k to +12V.Still works, all the CPU noises are gone, and the speakers don't pop any more at power on (they still pop at power off), though call me crazy but I think it now cuts the bass. At first I've suspected I might have wired by accident a speaker in anti-phase, but the phasing is good.Not sure if one the changes also made an unintended high pass filter somewhere, or if it is just an auditory illusion because of the missing CPU background noises, but now it sounds like a laptop.