hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Above average quality push buttons - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2022, 04:06:29 am
content: Has anyone done a teardown on momentary buttons that look like thisThey have a LED ring and a satisfying click and a slightly damped rebound that feels way nicer than your average cheap switch. They claim to be waterproof which probably isn't true, as I found them on Aliexpress.I would be interested to know what they look like inside and see if there is any attempt to seal against moisture ingress.Are they perhaps a copy of some well known name brand switch?

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2022, 05:03:12 am
content: Quote from: evb149 on June 13, 2022, 04:08:42 amIt's all metal. The central push button looks like spun or press formed stainless steel.The bezel and threaded section look like nickel plated something. No rattle or wobble and under $3.The blue part of the switch appears to be held in place by the end of the metal shell that has been pressed or rolled over to hold it captive.This is one of the official product photos.

author: radar_macgyver
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2022, 05:37:22 am
content: Looks similar to theBulgin MPI005"vandal resistant" series.

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2022, 06:58:42 am
content: Quote from: radar_macgyver on June 13, 2022, 05:37:22 amYes, it appears I have a generic vandal resistant switch that are made by lots of companies.So far I've been unable to find any information that shows the internal construction details for any of them.

author: kayvee
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2022, 07:59:38 am
content: Maybe C&K / RAFI has something.

author: Mangozac
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2022, 08:18:31 am
content: We use Onpow brand and they are great quality at an affordable price. We've done teardowns and they do have a moulded silicone seal behind the actuator. From the rear they're fairly splashproof but definitely not waterproof (that's by design though).

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2022, 12:54:30 am
content: Don't know the part number of this one, but, you can see the construction.It is a modular type, probably more expensive to build.Its not sealed in the front at all, as Mangozac said there is a round flat silicone seal at the very bottom of the actuator shaft.The LEDs in the front are sealed with clear silicone. The the polycarbonate/stainless steel actuator is in front of that. Spring on the plastic actuator shaft.

author: sam512bb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2022, 11:18:43 pm
content: Good day,Similar switches are made by e-switch which can be bought from Digikey and Mouser. The e-switch vandal resistance switches are quite solid and high quality. In some cases the e-switch can actually be less expensive than those on AliExpress... and you can get them pronto with free shipping ... assuming that your order is over $100.Cheers,Sam
Need for thermal relifing for TO247 diode in ground plane? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2022, 10:48:12 pm
content: Hi,How little thermal reliefing can you get away with with a to247 Diode?The attached is a TO247 diode (three pics at different zoom in levels) connecting to a ground plane of 1oz copper as pointed out.(PCB screen grid is 1mm)Can we just use an 80W soldering iron and not even bother with the thermal relief?...this is only a single prototype board.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2022, 05:17:24 am
content: The main reason for the thermal relief is to aid soldering. With a powerfull iron one can still solder even without thermal relief and even in more difficult conditions (e.g. 2 Oz or 4 Oz copper).

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2022, 09:10:17 am
content: You don't appear to have used thermal reliefs on any of the components, including the electrolytic and plastic film capacitors. Are you going to use a hot soldering iron on those too?As for the TO247 diode, I don't know why not having a thermal relief matters - it is attached to a heatsink.

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2022, 06:42:31 am
content: There are thermal reliefs on all the components -- they are just very narrow, hence hard to spot in the pictures at lower magnification, especially on the square pads.@Faringdon: You didn't mention why you want or need to make the thermal reliefs so narrow?!Even the narrow gaps will be "better than nothing" for thermal relief, since the thermal conductivity of FR4 is so much lower than for copper: A factor of 1600 in the W/(m*K) thermal conductivity, and approx. a factor of 35 for a 1 oz copper layer vs. 1.6 mm FR4 layer. But why not use a wider gap, e.g. the Eagle default setting?

author: Feynman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2022, 06:30:19 pm
content: The gap between pad an plane on your thermals looks really small. Is this still within the specification of your fabrication shop? But maybe it's just me not being used to looking a THT boardsAnyhow, if you have problems with heat transfer one solution is preheating the board. If you don't have a dedicated PCB heating plate a simple heat gun can help, too. Just carefully (!) heat up the hole board. Gently heating up the board to about ~50-60 °C already does the trick often times.But as a default solution I would always use thermal reliefs, if you don't need the small thermal resistance for heat transfer in your application.
Ordering components from LCSC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2022, 03:02:33 pm
content: Hi,Just spent 2 hours shopping listing on LCSC site for components....now ordering, it insists on a "VAT/EORI" number.......i dont have either.I am not an official company.Is there any way round this?

author: mon2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2022, 09:33:36 pm
content: Contact their customer service or use the chat option on their website - they will be able to clarify the best method to order and ship to you.
Wavetek model 112 PCB connectors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: andymouse
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2022, 08:45:59 pm
content: Hi,I am trying to find a part number for the gold connector pins used on an old Wavetek signal generator. They are separate 'Pins' that are split nearly down the middle and allow to such pins to lock together in a scissor like manner, one set on a PCB and another set at 90 degrees on a back plane and you can plug the PCB in, not sure if my description will ring any bell's as the sig-gen is old made late 60's.I would like to get some so I can make a 'riser' board to aid calibration and any thoughts would be welcome.CheersAndy.

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2022, 12:29:49 am
content: Those connectors were discontinued decades ago and are difficult to find. They were made by EDAC, ELCO and AVX. Here's some info that I've got on them. Be careful - there are multiple sizes that are not compatible with each other.
Cheap source for 0.6mm via rivets - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dorkshoei
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2022, 04:55:24 pm
content: Does anyone know of an inexpensive source for 0.6mm inside-diameter (ID) pcb via rivets? AliExpress doesn't seem to go below 0.9mm (where you can get 1000 for <$4).http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/863.16/doc/tutorials/PCB_Rivets

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2022, 06:15:20 pm
content: CircuitMedic has them:https://www.circuitmedic.com/parts/eyelets.html(0.02" ~ 0.5mm)I used to use them, then switched to a small drill and 24 awg bare wire, which is retained by friction. Solder and cut close. Easier, quicker, and cheaper.

author: dorkshoei
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2022, 06:19:15 pm
content: Quote from: jpanhalt on May 20, 2022, 06:15:20 pmSure but "$34.95 Pkg/25" isn't what I'd call cheap --https://www.circuitmedic.com/parts/115-7206-25.htmlThe wire is a good idea.

author: dorkshoei
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2022, 07:07:31 pm
content: I bought these off AliExpress but as I said, 0.9mm seems the smallest sold on the site (multiple sellers)https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32828531786.html

author: dorkshoei
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2022, 07:10:44 pm
content: Quote from: dorkshoei on May 20, 2022, 07:07:31 pmHmmn. I should go remeasure them as I assumed 0.9 was the ID but now I look closer maybe it's 0.7.

author: eugene
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2022, 08:30:51 pm
content: Quote from: dorkshoei on May 20, 2022, 04:55:24 pm24 AWG wire. You're going to add solder anyway, right?

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2022, 08:59:10 pm
content: The only reason I have really had for rivets in the past decade+ was to repair a lifted pad on a double sided board from Parallax that I had carelessly lifted while removing the header (attached). In the meantime, I have hot air and have not damaged a single board.

author: dorkshoei
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2022, 12:45:37 am
content: Okay, I was totally wrong. I bought some thinking they were 0.9mm ID but I just measured and they are 0.9mm OD. Not sure what the ID is but a 0.6mm micro drill bit is slightly too large. So they must be a bit thicker walled than the ones mentioned on the MIT site which had a 0.2mm delta between drill hole diameter and rivet ID. Sorry for noise. No clue if I'll ever use these but they were $4 for a 1000 so I'm not sweating it

author: Mark
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2022, 02:06:11 pm
content: Bungard 0.6mm internal diameter pack of 1000 for €20,97https://www.reichelt.com/fr/en/bag-of-1000-0-6-mm-hollow-rivets-for-bel-favorit-nieten-0-6mm-p33804.html?&trstct=pol_1&nbc=1

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2022, 03:12:27 am
content: I think T-Tech may have what You need.https://t-tech.com/product-category/thru-hole-materials/It may be closer to home.
Any bad PCB manufacture co's out there? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2022, 02:59:24 pm
content: Hi,I need to order 2 or so PCB's...just simple SMPS boards.....PCBshopper.com offers up the following places..ElecrowALLPCBPCBWAYJLCPCBPCBCARTPCBgogoAre any of these not so good? (ie, you order and they dont deliver, or deliver very late, etc etc)

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2022, 03:10:43 pm
content: Probably not much to choose between them, but at the moment you should see if they are currently being affected by China's ludicrous Covid lockdowns

author: crgarcia
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2022, 12:41:58 am
content: I have order from JLCPCB several times.In terms of quality, the boards look really good. What I notice is that when I try to rework the PCBs, 50% of the times I will loose a pad.This is very lucky due to my lack of skills soldering and desoldering (I am just a beginner hobbyist). I hope somebody else can comment with a "never happened to me" so that I can confirm that I am really terrible at thisAnyways, besides that little problem, my PCBs worked 100% of the times.I used couple of times their SMT service, and it worked in 99.999% of the times - and if you use kicad it is really easy to do and build the BOM.I order an stencil with frame once, and it works perfectly.I cannot comment on the otherones from your list because I have never used them.Here is a link to some of the PCBs I have ordered:https://github.com/crgarcia12/electronics-homeassistant-lightscontroll

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2022, 12:53:18 am
content: Quote from: crgarcia on June 04, 2022, 12:41:58 amWhat temperature is your iron set to.I haven't had this, but, my iron is only at 330C.
M3 spacer needed under sub-PCB for support? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2022, 02:33:50 pm
content: Hi,The attached is a little Gate drive PCB which will connect to the main board via a straight pin header (SMD can’t go on the main PCB as they would snap/go open)Do you think we also need to put say two 5mm M3 spacers underneath it to give some support, or will the soldered header be enough?This is only prototype.

author: Feynman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2022, 08:28:42 pm
content: Is the pin header soldered both on the main board as well as on the gate drive PCB? Since this is a prototype I wouldn't bother with additional support in this case. I guess this will work just fine, if the PCB has a reasonable thickness (>= 1.6mm) and you don't expect anything to push on the PCB (e. g. cable assemblies).

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2022, 10:23:59 pm
content: QuoteThanks, yes it is
JLC PCBA exporter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: fpoussin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 02, 2022, 10:50:24 am
content: Hey,I wrote a python scripts to generate BOM/CPL files for JLC PCBA services.This was done a year ago for a project while transitioning from Eagle to Kicad, so it supports both.https://github.com/fpoussin/pcb2jlcCode:usage: pcb2jlc.py [-h] [-u] [-o] [-m] [-n] [-i IGNORE] pcbGenerate JLCPCB bom and cpl files from a PCB filepositional arguments:pcb PCB board file. Can be Eagle (.brd) or Kicad (.kicad_pcb)optional arguments:-h, --help show this help message and exit-u, --update Update JLCPCB component database-o, --offline Use offline database-m, --match Only use LCSC attribute-n, --nostock Select part even if no stock-i IGNORE, --ignore IGNOREIgnored parts (regex)Let me know what you think or if it can be improved.

author: thinkfat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 02, 2022, 10:58:14 am
content: Note that at least one other major project using the JLCPCB database in an external tool was shot down by JLC.This is just a heads-up for you, not an advice.
T962 + GC10 paste, anyone has the data for a reflow profile? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kolombo6k6
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 11, 2022, 11:34:42 am
content: Hello!I am trying to program a custom profile for the GC10 paste in a T962 oven that has the custom firmwarebut looking at the GC10 datasheet it is unclear to me how program the profile values, there is a chart in the datasheet but it's like a thumbnail...has anyone made a profile already and can share?thank you!

author: mon2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2022, 06:44:49 pm
content: Give the default profile a try:https://www.instructables.com/Guide-to-the-T-962A-Reflow-Oven/
Bottom ported MEMS soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: davegravy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2022, 04:07:43 pm
content: I'm looking for suggestions regarding soldering technique.I'm wanting to do some prototyping with theIM72D128V01bottom-ported MEMS microphone.I'm on a fairly narrow budget and am hoping to avoid PCBA and to do my own assembly. I haven't found much online in terms of guidance on how to approach DIY soldering of bottom ported MEMS. I expect this will be a pretty delicate operation since the sound port filling with solder/flux will impact performance as will hole alignment.I have a soldering iron with a fine tip and hot air gun but no proper reflow oven (except a cheap toaster oven).The selected IC has integrated IP-57 protection which I expect helps. I have to imagine that even if debris isn't physically sitting on the diaphragm but is within the sound channel it's still going to impact performance to some degree.My current plan:Don't use a stencil+paste (has failed me for things like QFN previously).Hand tin the ring pad on the board and sensor side with a small amount of solder from the iron and then apply heat gun - with little to no flux.Inspect hole alignment with microscope, reheat and nudge the IC if it's off, and re-inspect, etc.Please let me know if this is doomed to fail!Another thought I had was to design the PCB such that the ring pad extends beyond the chip so I can use the soldering iron to conduct heat to the hidden pad.Open to suggestions!

author: TC
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2022, 02:02:05 am
content: I have used a mini hot plate... MHP30 from seeed studio... successfully. But you can cook the mic if you aren't careful.I've used it with paste and paste screen and also rework scenarios where there was solder on the pads with plenty of good flux. Be careful not to get paste in the port hole.
ceramic vs steel / compliant nozzles - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: loki42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2022, 11:44:48 am
content: The small nozzles for my pick and place (UIC) are only ceramic, but the larger sizes (0603 and up) are available in ceramic, steel or compliant. What is the reason to go for one over the other?

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2022, 03:06:17 pm
content: Both of the machines I have owned Philips (Yamaha) and Quad (Samsung) had steel nozzles that lasted well for the entire time I had them. Ceramic nozzles might be prone to breakage if a part gets picked sideways. Both machines did have compliance built into the nozzle holder assembly.Jon
PCB lead cutter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: georpo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2022, 07:28:00 am
content: I am looking to buy a PCB lead cutter machine from Europe. I have found this producthttps://www.zjyingxing.com/smt-spare-parts/the-breadboard-wipe-cutting-machine-yx200e.htmlfrom China but I prefer getting it from Europe.Anyone can suggest a European seller?
How to support PCB vertically on main PCB? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2022, 08:12:48 am
content: Hi,How would you mount this PCB (attached) vertically on a Main PCB?Its a ~30W SMPS PCB with an ETD29 transformer on it.Its got isolation but wont be used isolated.The whole thing is only a prototype.What about the other attache..which shows three headers, two one side and one the other?ETD29https://www.tdk-electronics.tdk.com/inf/80/db/fer/etd_29_16_10.pdf
Termopro Alpha-100 soldering station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2022, 06:45:45 pm
content: Hello, I came across an interestingAlpha-100soldering stationmade in Russiaby Termopro nowadays. The station itself looks OK, athough I personally do not like membrane buttons. The soldering Iron is very much inspired by PACE PS-90 SensaTemp. This was probably introduced in late 1980s.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2022, 06:49:34 pm
content: http://termopro.ru/catalog/soldering_station/http://termopro.ru/en/soldering_products/soldering_station/The Alpha-100 soldering station is hard to buy. The price is not clear. There is hardly any reason to buy it.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2022, 11:22:17 pm
content: Here is a datasheet with a list of soldering tips.
Busbar insulator? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: generic_username
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2022, 08:49:29 am
content: Hello everyone,I've seen on some Power supplies an insulator between the case and the copper busbar (see attached picture)I'm wondering how that part is called, I searched for fitting names but to no avail.I'd like to use the same principle as in the picture with a busbar extending outside of a case.So my question is how that part is called and if by chance anyone knows if there are some shelf items or if there are only custom parts?cheers

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2022, 09:01:46 am
content: I think 'insulating bush' (or bushing) is probably the best name. 'Insulating sleeve' will probbly bring up too many flexible sleeving hits.I suspect tht the part shown is custom. Off-the-shelf bushes tend to be circular but I've never tried to source a rectangular one.

author: generic_username
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2022, 10:27:33 am
content: Hi,thank you.I suspected as much that this is a custom part.I only found round ones sofar with 'busbar bushing'cheers
suggestions for attachment to cut wafer NFC chip (or very low cost SMD NFC chip) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: chaseadam
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2022, 08:08:05 pm
content: I have a project which I want to showcase the antenna of an NFC tag in a specific dimension on a custom PCB.It appears all passive NFC chips (except a few oddballs like NFC+i2c) are bare die. An example chip is the NTAG210/212, but there are many clones. You can buy wet or dry "inserts" or stickers with what appear to be very thin tinned copper antennas. Anyone know how they attach to the antenna?The method for connection to the antenna was not obvious to me after ripping a "wet insert" apart and flipping the bare die chip over.There are 4 (convex) intents on the antenna underneath where the chip sits. I am guessing this is the electrical connection.It appears to have a small amount of epoxy on it. Is it possible the epoxy is making the connection? (Seems unlikely)Is it a "die bond" of the antenna foil directly to the chip? The convex intents may imply it is not directly bonded as I would think a direct bond would be concave.Any suggestions on very low cost SMD style NFC Tag chips?Seems crazy, but any obvious problems with "harvesting" the chip from an insert and bond (solder?) to the larger aluminum antenna lead after cutting the antenna? Seems I can get solder to attach to it... (obviously the antenna it is attached to would need tuning to take the lead into account)

author: chaseadam
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2022, 05:31:26 pm
content: Best option I found to date for SMD packaged NFC Tag chips are the "enhanced" NT3H2111 with i2c ($0.67@1k) and NTAG213F with field detection ($0.33@1k)

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2022, 05:33:48 pm
content: The chips have copper pillars. They are friction welded (ultrasound)
Solder Pot Analysis? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: forrestc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2022, 11:02:45 am
content: I have a selective solder machine that I'd like to send a sample of the solder in the pot out for analysis to determine the pot composition to make sure we haven't moved too far away from SAC305.I am wondering if anyone has used one of the analysis services and if so, what your impression was.I'm in the US, so north American providers are preferred.

author: georpo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2022, 01:00:16 pm
content: I was about to ask the same, but since I found your post if it's not an issue please let me know if you know any European provider since I am located in Greece.

author: SMTech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2022, 03:37:01 pm
content: Our solder supplier does this for free, a good relationship with a specialist supplier gives you benefits like analysis, process support, disposal of waste & profiling (and better pricing than if you're buying solder wire/bar/pastes from someone like RS/Digikey etc) and it doesn't necessarily mean you need to be using a huge amount to qualify.

author: georpo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2022, 04:12:11 pm
content: Could you please say who your supplier is?

author: Mangozac
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2022, 10:39:00 pm
content: Quote from: SMTech on May 18, 2022, 03:37:01 pmSurely nobody doing that level of production purchases solder from RS/DK/etc.? The cost difference is HUGE.

author: forrestc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 19, 2022, 03:35:27 am
content: Quote from: SMTech on May 18, 2022, 03:37:01 pmIf you don't mind telling us, who are you using?We are typically an indium shop here - they do offer a service but they do charge for it. Now I've said that I should probably talk to my salesperson about whether that is true for me since I haven't asked about that particular item.We're sort of in that state where we're large enough that solder providers don't mind having our business but we're also not large enough volume-wise for them to want to spend a lot of support time dealing with our account.
Flyback transformer with  extra pads added to PCB? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2022, 11:07:02 pm
content: Hi,"How do you terminate flyback windings to the pins of the former without the former pin melting out of its plastic holding when you solder the winding to the pin?"The attached is a 30W non-isolated flyback with Vin = 390Vdc.It uses an ETD29 Former. Extra pads have been added outside the former so that its easier to wind and assemble to the PCB (ie just have to wind a layer across and no “end” to bring back across the bobbin)Also, de-enamelising enamelled wire and then terminating it to a former pin often ends up with the former plastic round the pin melting so much that the pin just falls off.Why is such practice not more common in prototyping?
TO220 with low profile and heatsunk? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2022, 10:53:34 am
content: Hi,Are there any TO220 heatsinks made to be used as in the attached? We can find none.Its bent back so its got low height

author: SMTech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2022, 12:53:15 pm
content: Lots of them, more if you include the ones that physically allow it but are designed to be board mounted vertically.530614B00000G as a starter

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2022, 01:32:38 am
content: Quote from: Faringdon on May 17, 2022, 10:53:34 amGosh, I wonder why… you want the fins facing the PCB? Where, pray tell, is your airflow supposed to come from?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2022, 12:34:17 pm
content: I'd assume it's at the board edge, as, even if the fins were flush against the board (not a show stopper, but requires forced air and ducting, PITA) the pins won't be long enough to still reach the board for any reasonable height of heatsink.Much more common to mount the device underneath (leads bent up), so the PCB can be mounted to the heatsink with standoffs. Or at the board edge, PCB can be flush mounted to the heatsink.Example: well, not a great one, but you can just see it anyways.Note the large holes in the middle of the board, through which tabs can just be seen.To minimize lead strain, the devices need to be soldered in place after fixing to the heatsink.Tim
K1830 wont perform XY Initialize [SOLVED] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Ribster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2022, 03:32:43 pm
content: So i have a K1830. Only a few weeks old.I did some test assembly runs, all turned out okay.Sometimes the XY initialisation needed to be performed again, just went back to the manual test and executed the function, no problem.Now currently i have a situation where it just wont do anything regarding xy initialize.So my X and Y bed will not move. The button clickdown registers in the UI. It then freezes the ui, and after some time it unfreezes the UI. But it did not perform anything.All the heads are in the correct place. I tried moving the head with the emergency stop on, tried all the positions -> no effect.The break is working, the drives are working as well. If i lightly push the head in the X / Y direction, the pitch of the servo drive changes, so it's responding to the changed load.So i'm quite stuck. It's sunday in belgium so no support ...EDIT: Root cause was the laser line above the feeders. Be aware because no feedback in the UI about this.

author: Ribster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2022, 04:08:21 pm
content: Update:So searching around i found this interesting repo.I had wifi connected, and used 192.168.1.40 and 192.168.1.43 ips on my private network.Maybe these collisions where to blame. I disabled the wifi and did a powercycle. No potato.I have the following ips on the rpi on the K1830:192.168.1.35192.168.1.41192.168.1.43192.168.1.31192.168.1.32192.168.1.34192.168.1.42192.168.1.40192.168.1.30192.168.1.33The X/Y motion part is 192.168.1.32, and arp is discovering it. That seems to be working as expected.I guess it's in the Qt application that it won't send out the packets...The initialize request is documented in the git repo, so will try to see if that UDP packet gets spit out..https://github.com/IRNAS/irnas-neoden_k1830-tools/tree/master/communication

author: Ribster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2022, 07:09:11 pm
content: Ok update:It was the laser line that was causing an issue.With some guidance i was able to disconnect them from the back and initialisation went through.No warning in the UI tho, so be aware.
PCB is too tall for header connection to main PCB? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2022, 12:56:35 am
content: Hi,Do you think the attached PCB is too tall to be supported by the 20 contact 2row header at its end?These headers and their sockets seem a bit flimsy, and it makes you wonder whether the weight of this PCB will just be that bit too much ?The PCB only comprises 0805 resistors, and SO8 chips etc, and one DPAK fet.Header:https://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mc34775/header-2-row-r-angle-20way/dp/1593454Socket housing (on other PCB):https://uk.farnell.com/harwin/m20-7831046/socket-pcb-0-1-10-10way/dp/7992025?st=m20-783

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2022, 01:48:24 am
content: QuoteThanks, yes thats right.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2022, 04:28:26 am
content: You guys should work on that PCB a bit more, optimize it to lower height. Looks like you can turn those SO8 chips 90 degrees to use the space better, maybe consider resistor networks where possible instead of individual resistors.Even the optocouplers on the right corner could be rotated 90 degrees to shorten those traces, C94 and C95 could be rotated to use shorter traces, and use that space around C97 and below the two capacitors C94 and C95 better ... in fact those two capacitors could be flipped horizontally so that the trace from the 5th pin in the header can go straight to the capacitors.If the header can be offset a bit, looks like you could make space on the right side to move that double optocoupler to the right of the header and save space, get that optocoupler to use the dead space there, especially if it's rotated 90 degrees.The four traces on the left are a mess, could have the first trace go all way to left and to the top left and have the next 3 traces go straight up and then towards the left edge, without breaking the ground with vias right by the header, could use just one via pair to link that single trace to q34 instead of having 3 traces break the ground ... lots of wasted space around Q34 now. Lots of space to the left of U41 and U43 and U46... Then that trace continues all the way to the top... that trace should be on the other side of the pcb, along the edge... use that empty space to put components there and shrink the height. The text can go on the top of the pcb or somewhere else, maybe the other side of the pcb which is empty of components.Force 45 degree angle bends in traces, don't allow 90 degree traces, makes for better layout.And can you guys really not make the board full SMD and have to use 4 through hole capacitors? Ask how much it costs to make the board have components on both sides

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2022, 09:40:54 am
content: Thanks, thats some great advice there, uch appreciated...ill work on that.I must admit i did research on why 90 degree bends were bad, and came up with that in days gone by, etchant would get trapped in the 90 degree bend bit and thin the track there....but that nowadays, this isnt a problem?
Help to "Hakk" the Hakko FX-951,  it don't have pre-set temperatures  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jovan_kineas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2022, 02:53:41 am
content: Hello, I recently bought a hakko FX-951 and it is a very good station but to my surprise it does not include in its menu any way to set temperatures in memory as it did in my old FX888D, I have asked the hakko technical service to confirm it and the answer was simply "we are sorry but this function is not included in FX-951". I have obtained the writable integrated circuit model where the programming code of the PCB is located. So I wanted to ask if anyone has a way to modify the code found in the integrated R5F2127 for "Hakk" the hakko and be able to add this function to this fantastic station, does anyone with programming knowledge want to collaborate with me? I would provide the FX888D and FX-951 rom or .bin for you to make a custom rom. I attachment a picture of the FX-951 PCB. Thank you.Postscript: Excuse my bad English.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2022, 09:49:26 pm
content: Its not going to be possible without a very large amount of effort.How are you going to provide the .bin file, have you read it out already?Easier option would be to get a T12 clone station, load custom firmware onto it (found on this forum), and use the knob to switch between presets or add some buttons to act as presets.Or find a T12 clone with built in presets.

author: jovan_kineas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2022, 04:03:14 pm
content: Hi, thanks for your replay, I would extract the .bin by extracting the ic and putting it in the programmer of each of the stations, if it is not possible because it is encrypted or protected, that is another matter, there is no worse attempt than the one that is not done, but first I need to know if someone who program help me with that.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2022, 08:51:55 pm
content: Quote from: jovan_kineas on May 05, 2022, 04:03:14 pm99% chance the IC will be protected, so you will not easily be able to read out the firmware.Which Renesas programmer do you have?

author: jovan_kineas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2022, 11:02:37 pm
content: Hi, i need to see if the TL866 2 Plus have this ic in the database, this is my only chance

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2022, 12:06:06 am
content: Quote from: jovan_kineas on May 05, 2022, 11:02:37 pmNope, atmega and PIC it looks like is it:http://www.autoelectric.cn/MiniPro/TL866II_List.txt

author: jovan_kineas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2022, 03:06:23 pm
content: Hi, you are right, sadly, TL866 2 Plus have not support for R5F2127, i need other programmer for that.Thanks
V-scoring, depanelizing and related issues - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: george.r
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2022, 07:20:32 pm
content: We're having a few boards made at work, and need some 10 panels of it for the first run.Sure thing, gerbers sent to JLCPCB, we asked them to do the panelizing (since the customer had specified KiCad and that doesn't really do panels well). JLC told us they _wouldn't_ do mousebites, and if we wanted panels, they'd have to be V-scored. Now, each board has overhangs on two of the sides when fully assembled, which will complicate depanelizing.We've always used mousebites without issue when spinning our own panels, but this is a new experience. Does anyone have any input on this, are there any concerns about the parts that overhang the board outline I should be aware of, or am I just overthinking this?Thanks all!

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2022, 09:40:53 pm
content: Be weary of score to break and the forces which might be exerted on solder joints close to the score line while the panels are being broken away.

author: ogden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2022, 10:13:40 pm
content: V-cut SMT PCB's shall be separated using "pizza cutter", like this:https://www.cab.de/en/electronics/pcb-separators/maestro-3e/. It means no overhang components. If you are planning to break v-cut PCB, then better don't, especially in case of ceramic caps or BGA close to the edge. You can possibly think of making special tool to break v-cut that does not allow PCB flexing, but anyway - good luck with final quality.

author: Mangozac
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2022, 10:44:58 pm
content: JLC will do mousebites - you just have to do the panelising yourself. We do it all the time.

author: SMTech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2022, 07:57:12 am
content: Quote from: ogden on May 03, 2022, 10:13:40 pmThis risk is overstated and highly dependent on your design, the PCB size, rigidity and quality/depth of the V-score, a massive proportion of our assemblies are v-scored and broken out manually without issue. A V-score will often give you a more rigid panel for assembly in p&p and wave soldering than mousebites reducing the need for complex support. Of course it has its drawbacks for things like overhanging components or the strength of the panel during reflow if there are multiple scores. You choose your method on a case by case basis.

author: Matt-Brown
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2022, 06:13:28 pm
content: You can also request v-score and route. if overhangling on 2 soiides have a routed gap, or gaps. It just limites how many per panel
Need solid probe tips without springs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2022, 03:48:03 am
content: OK, I've been looking for forever and I just can't find anyone selling these. What I'm looking for is essentially the plunger/tip part of a pogo tip used for test fixtures and so on. Like this:https://www.smithsinterconnect.com/CMSPages/GetFile.aspx?guid=fed36fa0-6ed9-4685-91a8-89d766fc5e53except I don't want the receptacle, spring and all of that, just a solid copper (CuBe) probe tip with gold plating. Body diameter of 0.50-0.75 would be good, a variety of tip ends would be helpful. The body can be relatively short, like 0.500" (12.7mm) or so, it will be pressed into a solid copper (CuTe) receptacle body. Up to an inch long might also work, although drilling and pressing something that narrow and small becomes difficult.Any ideas?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2022, 12:34:20 am
content: What is the application, as a probe tip?How about just soldering a spring pogo pin so it doesn't move.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2022, 05:03:36 am
content: Quote from: thm_w on April 28, 2022, 12:34:20 amI'm trying to set up a reasonably manufacturable almost-kelvin SMD resistance probe, so I need the pin to have the lowest resistance and the lowest variation in resistance possible. Soldering a pogo pin or extracting the core from one is likely going to be the interim solution, but I'd really like to find a source for just the pin with a micro-toothy end on it--the ones that look like microscopic lampreys. The pin gets pressed into a CuTe alloy receptacle, but both drilling the hole and pressing the pin become increasingly impossible with smaller pin sizes. I currently have 0.052" diameter pins with 0.020" dia toothy tips, which allows me to reliably test very small SMD parts, but that is a pogo-pin style and if I extract the core, it is only about 0.038".

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2022, 12:03:48 pm
content: I used to rep TCI out of Upland California.TCI have a great range of spring loaded as well as solid probes.In fact I got acquainted with TCI through Fastek who used to make universal grid bare board test equipment.I ran a bare board test lab in Brisbane in the nineties.Anyway TCI are the source You are looking for.www.tciinfo.com

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2022, 04:13:47 pm
content: Quote from: IconicPCB on April 28, 2022, 12:03:48 pmThat's two miles from my house!Thanks! I'll go talk to them.
Minimum drill size, to fit 0.45mm lead, given plate thickness? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: julian1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2022, 09:10:01 am
content: I normally use relaxed though-hole footprints, because a bit of wiggle doesn't matter, and it allows for small differences between components.In this case I want to minimize the hole and pad size.Is it possible to indicate what minimum drill size could fit a 0.45mm lead, given that the electrolytic process that will deposit extra copper to inner wall of the pth?Plate thickness/copper weight will vary between manufacturers (and batches) but perhaps it is still possible to indicate a likely safe margin.

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2022, 11:03:45 am
content: Julian,Old school: lead diameter + 0.2 mm to facilitate solder capillary action leading to a good repair cycle.But then 1ounce finished copper plate typically starts with 0.5 ounce stock. Hole wall copper thickness depends on throwing power of the plating process. typically 17 um hole wall plating to 22um for a one ounce ( 35um ) finished weight.I hope this gives you some idea.Keep in mind hole size is finished hole size and the PCB shop will select drill size based on their plating process to achieve finished hole size.=

author: eugene
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2022, 02:41:47 pm
content: julian1, you're making this too hard for yourself. Decide what you want the finished hole size to be after plating and let the PCB fabricator decide what drill size to use.You need to let the fab house know the diameters you specify are finished sizes, not drill sizes, but that seems to be the default these days. Many of the highly automated services like JLCPCB produce boards with the finished size close to whatever is in your drill file unless you tell them otherwise.

author: Feynman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2022, 07:52:13 pm
content: Yes, specifying finished sizes for PTH is industry standard. The fab will pick a slightly bigger drill to end up with your specified hole size after plating.But you should mention this in your fab notes, just to be on the safe side (e. g. "Drill diameters for PTH are finished sizes").Good starting values:- Round leads: Hole diameter = lead diameter + 0.20 mm- Square/rectangular leads: Hole diameter = lead diameter (corner to corner) + 0.15 mm- Manufacturer's recommended footprint

author: julian1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2022, 08:33:06 pm
content: Thanks for the excellent comments. I had an poor understanding about how manufacturers interpret the drill gerber. And even if they don't pick drill sizes according to the end-product, plate thickness is a lot thinner than I thought. The suggested starting values for common spacing are also very helpful.
Maximum  outer diameter of wire? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2022, 11:19:36 am
content: Hi,Does anyone have a chart showing max outer diam and Ohms/metre of TEX-BS and TEX-FS wires?https://feryster.com.pl/polski/pdf/TEX-BS_FS_Eng_updated.pdfFor some reason the Furukawa website only shows details for TEX-E and TEX-ELZ wires.I wonder if TEX-BS and TEX-FS are the same M.O.D and R/m as TEX-E?(I have the chart for TEX-E)TEX-BS and TEX-FS wireshttps://feryster.com.pl/polski/pdf/TEX-BS_FS_Eng_updated.pdfWe introduce the Furukawa Electric products in the Electronics parts materials category for the Electronics sector.https://www.furukawa.co.jp/en/product/electronic/ele_parts/index.html

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2022, 05:21:29 pm
content: Here you go:https://powermagnetics.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Tex-BSFS.pdf(By pure chance, the first hit I clicked for “TEX-BS wire” was that one.)But by it not being listed on the manufacturer’s website, and the dated PDF (it was a new product in 2009, so that’s when the datasheet is from), I’d fear it’s a discontinued product. I’d ask the manufacturer.

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2022, 10:46:05 pm
content: Massive thankyou to yourself for this tooki!Many thanks!
Tool to strip enamel from the end of enamelled copper wire? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2022, 01:51:43 pm
content: Hi,Point your index finger out.......then grab hold of it with the other hand, then squeeze it repeatedly, ,then keep some pressure on the squeeze, and then pull your hand off your index finger...Then do this repeatedly...Now its there any tool that does that to enamelled copper wire so as to weaken the enamel so that it can be more easily "wetted soldering iron scraped" off the end of the enamelled wire?Also, this has to be done to just the little , short "sticky out end" bit of enammelled wire that comes off the transformer after you've wound it...which makes things just a little more difficult.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2022, 01:58:40 pm
content: Fine sandpaper, folded and held between your finger and thumb.

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2022, 02:02:50 pm
content: I try to use solder-meltable enameled wire. One brand I use is "polythermaleze", a trademark of Phelps Dodge, used by Belden and other wire manufacturers.

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2022, 02:22:42 pm
content: Besides solderable wire and tinning with solder pot, , we use a blunt X-Acto knife and pulled the magnet wire between the blade and thumb.Rotate to another angles to repeat on all sides.Jon

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2022, 02:50:58 pm
content: https://youtu.be/hvI4hv2B1hU

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2022, 08:55:00 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/removing-enamel-from-coated-wire/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/what-dissolves-removes-magnetic-wire-enamel-coating/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/remove-fine-wire-coating-to-solder/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/soldering-ultrafine-wire/25/https://hackaday.com/2020/03/09/dont-scrape-magnet-wire-do-this-instead/

author: twospoons
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2022, 01:05:06 am
content: Sodium hydroxide in ethanol will dissolve polyimide. Either soak, or use like flux - heat from the iron will accelerate the destruction of the polyimide. I've used this trick for soldering Litz wire.

author: jayx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2022, 10:56:23 pm
content: This one is quite good:https://www.series4.co.uk/product/abisofix-enamel-wire-stripper/