3D printing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2015, 09:39:26 pm
content: I want to make custom decorations for my two tropical tanks. I was thinking of buying a 3D printer to help me make rock formations, with lots of crevices and caves and tunnels for the fish to hide. I could make it into parts and glue them together afterwards to create a larger part.Is that something that could be achieved with a 3D printer?My other idea is to use real wood - not structural / planed wood but from the fire logs I keep out the back, and somehow combine pieces to make interesting shapes. The problem is the wood is live and could harbour unhealthy material for the fish.

author: Farley
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2015, 09:54:12 pm
content: I was reading this just before I came to eevblog and saw your post:http://science.slashdot.org/story/15/11/06/1524244/3d-printed-objects-found-toxic-to-fish-embryos

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2015, 09:55:26 pm
content: What a coincidence. The news today -http://science.slashdot.org/story/15/11/06/1524244/3d-printed-objects-found-toxic-to-fish-embryos.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2015, 09:56:10 pm
content: Quote from: Farley on November 06, 2015, 09:54:12 pmI guess you beat me to it

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 06, 2015, 10:02:18 pm
content: A 3D printer is just fine for that, preferably using PLA. Just wash your parts thoroughly in soap before you use them with fish.

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2015, 10:29:55 pm
content: The printers in question were an ABS fused-filament machine, and a resin-based lithographic machine. I'm not at all surprised that the resin-based printer leached out toxic compounds, or that the effects were reduced by extended exposure to UV. I'm more surprised that the effects of the ABS prints, and I'm curious how the toxicity of the printed ABS compares to the toxicity of injection molded ABS.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2015, 04:59:08 am
content: Quote from: Farley on November 06, 2015, 09:54:12 pmi dont think the OP want to breed fishes in aquarium.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2015, 05:10:09 am
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on November 07, 2015, 04:59:08 amWell, if it kills embryos, it can't be good for grown up fish either.

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2015, 07:10:20 am
content: Quote from: ataradov on November 06, 2015, 09:56:10 pmAnyone who keeps fish, except those guys at California it seems, knows that fish are very sensitive to chemicals, and only use in the tank materials that are time tested and proven "aquatic life safe".I was going to ask as my second question what the 3D plastics/resins are made off, could they leak any additives into the water, are they stable over time and over temperature changes etc.We have known for some time now that plastic bottles and containers leak compounds into the food/water/milk/juice they contain (eg softeners), especially with exposure to wide temperatures (from freezing to over 50C for bottles of water for example).Regardless what code is stamped on the plastic bottle, you never know how it was manufactured what additives they used in that factory and in that batch even.Ideally you should throw out all plastics in your kitchen and stop chewing on your pen too!If anyone knbows1) Can I assume that a 3D printer can do secondary colours, eg shades of brown and grey? Say I wanted to make rock decorations2) Do 3D printers use interchangeable spools of resins/plastics or must you buy a specific brand for a specific 3D printer?3) Do they all work by melting a spool of plastic thread and depositing it on the object? Or are there other ways?4) What is the melting/working temperature of those resins and up to what temperature are they stable?Many thanksPS I am now reading on RepRap

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2015, 07:34:13 am
content: Quote from: ataradov on November 07, 2015, 05:10:09 amAnd for humans. We are all part of the same Tree of Life.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2015, 07:42:06 am
content: Quote from: akis on November 07, 2015, 07:10:20 ameither use wood ABS or this...

author: hagster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2015, 08:07:43 am
content: 1. most printers can only print a single colour. There are some professional printers that can do more if you want to send your designs out to a bureau. Some printers have dual extruders for multiple materials and colours, but these currently come with lots of secondary problems that make them less reliable and are best avoided for a beginner.2. Most printers allow you to use various filaments. However some are locked down to specific cartridges. The exact materials any printer can work well with vary. Some printers have temperature limitations and or struggle with flexible filamanets.3. There are other methods. The most common is FDM (melting filament). Next is SLA which is the UV cure resin. After that there are all sorts of options such as SLS, sandstone, jetting, paper stacking. The FDM is probably best for this purpose and certainly the cheapest to do at home.4. It varies by materials. Unless you are planning to cook your fish, I don't think it's important in this case. The filament that might be worth a try for this is PET (polyester). This is the plastic in drinks bottles etc so it's food safe. Comes in various brand names such as PETG, T-glade and Colorfab-FT. Otherwise PLA is the obvious choice.Depending on how much of this you plan to do its worth considering outsourcing. Shapeways, I.materialise, 3d-hubs and many more can offer you loads of options at competitive rates.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 05:36:09 pm
content: Be aware that 3D parts are mostly hollow, even if you design them solid. This is due to the infill settings (typically 10-20%) so include some weight in your design if you want them to stay at the bottom of the aquarium.If you want to check the water with minimal investment, you can design one 'rock' (e.g. using Blender) and send it to a 3D printing house (e.g. Shapeways). If you want to paint it, order in 'neutral' or white color.For ready made models, search thingieverse.com for 'aquarium'. For example, they have this fish tent model (you need the .stl file to print it).http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:724439

author: bookaboo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 05:44:43 pm
content: How about using real rocks and hiring/borrowing a masonry core drill and making tunnels and stuff that way. Or even easier just find the right shapes and silicone them together in a natural looking way.(edited for spelling)

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 06:20:28 pm
content: Quote from: bookaboo on November 09, 2015, 05:44:43 pmThat's so 20th century...These days we can even 3D print the fisheshttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:654888;-)

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 06:21:23 pm
content: You can get "ocean" rocks, typically very light for their size, very porous, and put chunks together to form shapes etc, if the fish are marine or can take it. Others have used normal rock, like slate and decorative rocks to form shapes, but it is too heavy. I was thinking of using wood, to put pieces together to make shapes, although wood also has its problems (if it has been treated in any way it will probably kill the fish).

author: bookaboo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2015, 09:29:25 am
content: Haha, the irony of giving "glue rocks together" as advice on an electronics forum!!