Workbench build! My New Years Resolution for 2024! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 06:09:56 am
content: It has been a very may years since I have had myself a real workbench and I have come to a screaming halt and need to ask for some help.Am I going to buy something from Bunnings? Nope, but the timber is from Bunnings and I am in Australia.Do I need help with getting the timber or tools? No, I have that covered.What I need to know is, how tall do I make the thing?First off my goal is to work on electronics builds and repair, soldering and what not. Build and work in desktop computers, a server now and then. And service sewing machines or at least try to. I do plan to be able to work at this thing for at least a few hours or longer at a time.The grand master plan is to use this as a standing workbench, I do have plans to build something else later on that I can sit at but this a standing one only. The best way I can ask this, should it be at chest or elbow height in reference to myself.The other thing I should ask, how high should I place the top shelf, this is meant to be high enough above the bench top to give myself a good clearness, but still usable for tools like oscilloscopes, soldering irons and the such.For details regarding the types of materialsLegs will be made from thishttps://www.bunnings.com.au/90-x-35mm-framing-mgp10-untreated-pine-6-0m_p8030068Main Supporthttps://www.bunnings.com.au/70-x-35mm-framing-mgp10-untreated-pine-6-0m_p8030022Second Supporthttps://www.bunnings.com.au/42-x-19mm-3-0m-dar-pine-premium_p8401459I have 590mm and a 290mm wide sheet left of thishttps://www.bunnings.com.au/specrite-2400-x-1200mm-17mm-plywood-pine-film-faced-non-structural_p0340319Something like this but 15mm and it has been cut in halfhttps://www.bunnings.com.au/2440-x-1200mm-7mm-braceboard-plywood-pine-2440-x-1200mm_p0391229The plan is to use the formply for both the bench top and shelf and the braceboard plywood for the two shelves inside.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 06:16:37 am
content: I built my own little work bench, not as ambitious as yours, but I wish I had made it deeper, because at the back I have my line of equipment, scope, psu, soldering etc. and that eats into the actual work space.

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 06:27:22 am
content: Quote from: moffy on January 02, 2024, 06:16:37 amYea, I had though about that myself, but I started with two off cuts from a bookcase build and hoping to inch out a little bit of space for some shelving beside it.What I am hoping, the shelf on top can hold most if not all of it and keep it out of the way.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 06:34:34 am
content: Things like the soldering iron and scope kinda need to be on the bench for ease.

author: Faranight
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 08:19:42 am
content: I built mine at 90 cm deep, and it still feels too shallow since I later build 40cm shelving on top to carry some really deep instruments like a programmable DC load (itech), a high-current power supply (mason), and a benchtop DMM (DMM6500). The shelves were designed to hold the instruments at eye-level, but now I wish I had made them a bit taller since they're only 35cm above the desk, and I'm planning to raise them by maybe 5 to 10 cm.

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 06:58:38 pm
content: Quote from: Faranight on January 02, 2024, 08:19:42 amBut for me the bench space is all usable and the shelves hold the instruments30 or 35 cm above seems plenty enough to work under it.For a normal height person I would build a standing surface at 90 cm and a sitting surface at 75 cm. Not critical either.

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 07:20:36 pm
content: Bonjour, BRAVO for the DIY wood bench.Did that in 1950s..1960s!Found the wood is easy to damage or burn if you do HV o power work.Suggest much deeper to accommodate equipment and solder stations, add outlet strip at back.Normal Bench Standing ht 33..36"Upper shelf should be 18" D, we made a slight 10 deg backtilt to avoid falling eg in case of earthquake.The blue and white in photo were stock from workbench firm, modified by expert woodworker.The small table is used for measurements instruments and QC.Your comments on my benches and setup welcome!Bon Nouvelle An 2024Jon

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 07:30:54 pm
content: Another way to "build" a workbench is to declutter the existing one... that's my resolution.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 10:16:32 pm
content: Quote from: Alex Eisenhut on January 02, 2024, 07:30:54 pmBest of luck, tell us how long it lasts.

author: Fryguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 11:18:48 pm
content: I made my primary workbench out of a used high quality steel frame office desk (90x180 cm) which i found at obey for 20 bucks .The desk height is perfect for sitting by default . I am too old to work on stuff standing . . .Then i modified a cheap crappy metal shelf for stability and put it on top of the desk for the smaller equipment . The two shelf levels are about 60 and 90 cm above the table . The lower shelf level has got LED-lights underneath it .It can save you a lot of money taking a peek at used stuff and modify it for your needs .

author: Faranight
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 06:23:39 am
content: Quote from: soldar on January 02, 2024, 06:58:38 pmIt's too low for me. I have yet to mount a LED light underneath the first shelf for better bench illumination, and some items like the SensePeek board could use a bit more vertical space so that my hands don't hit the shelf each time I try to re-adjust the probes. Finally, I wanted to hang some scope probe holders from the first shelf, which again takes up quite a bit of space underneath. The shelves are 30 mm thick - 20 mm steel frame and 10 mm plywood sheet on-top.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 07:29:57 am
content: Depth is indeed important.My workbench is 60cm deep but then has 40cm deep shelves behind it. This means that all of the 60cm depth is usable since all the equipment is on the shelf. Well.. at least when the workbench is clear...i have to get around to clearing it up after working on projects over the holidays.As for height you want it about as high as a kitchen counter, since those are designed for standing. Chest height is definitely too high. The exact height depends on preferences too, and some people are taller than others. Best thing to do is to prop up a board on a table at various heights and try taking apart something on top of it to see how it works out for you. At that point you can still easily adjust it by placing more or less boxes under the board until you find what works for you.Another reason for not having a too high work surface is that equipment you repair on it also has some height, so if the bench is already on the high side placing a tall piece of equipment to work on gets unreasonably high.Tho when working on repairing computers and test gear and such i tend to like placing it on top of a wheeled tool cart. That way i can easily move a heavy piece of equipment around to get at all sides of it while working on it.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 07:46:13 am
content: After my comment about my narrow workbench I thought I would take my own advice and deepen it by another 30cm, bought the wood today. Thanks for this topic.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 08:46:19 am
content: Yes. For most electronics work you want at least 60 cm depth front to back from the front edge to the edge of the first overhanging shelf, and preferably more. This may mean a narrower first shelf.Given the O.P's list of existing materials, and assuming the room is wide enough for a 115 cm deep bench, I'd spline and glue or biscuit joint the two sheets of formply to get an 88 cm deep single sheet for a worktop, and buy 90x45 framing timber for both the legs and the lower frame. Three longitudinal edge-on beams, one 6" in from the front edge, with the front of the top leg ends (again edge-on) notched to fit it, one in the middle of the depth, and one at the back, with cross-beams under them at each leg position, notched into the leg by ~10 mm should do the job. Handle the back legs similarly except there is no need to notch them for the back beam - they can simply go behind it, up to the bottom of the cross-beams, gusset plated to them. From the 15mm ply, cut a 17 cm wide strip to cover a cable management tray to be built at the back of the bench. The back longitudinal beam should protrude ~10 mm past the back edge of the worktop to provide a lip for the tray cover to land on. Shim it up so the tray cover is flush with the worktop. You'll also need something right at the wall for it to land on - this can be a strip of fairly thin ply or board, 92mm wide, edge on, on top of the cross beams. In between the cross beams, board across the bottom of the rear beam to the board or ply strip at the wall to form the bottom of the cable tray. That gives you a ~ 15 cm wide tray, to hold power strips and even wall warts and power bricks as long as the total height is under 9 cm. If you are putting PSUs in there, only board the bottom where needed to support them as you need some air circulation. The cover board is loose, but a snug fit (which may require a back board if the bench isn't attached to the wall or if the wall is uneven), and should be in sections - three or four across the width of the bench is good, so you can notch the ends to bring cables up where you need them.The legs should either be screwed to the floor or have triangular plywood gusset plates to stabilise them sideways and front to back. You can cross-brace front to back, but its a PITA if you are crawling under their reorganising stuff. You may want to put shelf brackets half way up the rear legs for an under-bench shelf to make better use of space for long-term storage, but keep min. 60cm free from its front edge to the bench edge for knee space.The end result should be stout enough for two fat blokes to stand on! (Essential for safely accessing the top shelf.)Shelving above the bench is another matter. We all have our own preferences, + you will be staring at it most days for the next decade or so. Just don't be this guy:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/lab-storage-shelf-collapse-postmortem/Also see:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/my-workbench-the-perfect-is-the-enemy-of-the-good-enough/and maybe skim through the 'show us your workbench' megathread for ideas:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/whats-your-work-benchlab-look-like-post-some-pictures-of-your-lab/

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 10:07:36 am
content: Quote from: Berni on January 03, 2024, 07:29:57 amI had to update the bench top and shelf part, so the two bits are left over from a bookcase buildhttps://www.bunnings.com.au/specrite-2400-x-1200mm-17mm-plywood-pine-film-faced-non-structural_p0340319this stuff has been standing for a year and with the bookcase its not just shelving, but also the sides. It has not been secured to the wall and is free standing, so I like it.I have a few too many storage boxes from woolies and bigW, I'll set those up and try playing with a few things to see how it feels as the beaches in my kitchen are way too low for me to work on. I should know I have worked with a few overlockers and some sewing projects and it just kills my back with the bending over, I do have a few too many off cuts of things.I'll have to look at adjusting things a little, I have a small collection of plywood and a few saws I can use to cut them up. My plan now it to make maybe two or three shelves for the electronics stuff and have something more open for everything else.I think I'll also go and buy myself a few metal brackets, some of the posts before, yea my woodworking stills are not all that good.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 10:18:48 am
content: If you don't reckon your skills are good enough to biscuit joint or spline and glue, you could joint the two formply boards with a batten screwed and glued to the underside. A 40mm strip of the other ply would work or use stripwood of similar dimensions.For the rest of it, my suggested design is very much 'bush' carpentry, not fine joinery. The notching in of various parts to the legs is to avoid surface joints loaded in sheer and to avoid notching horizontal beams to retain maximum stiffness. All the notching can be done by hand with a tenon saw, just keep your cuts straight and level and don't over-size the notches!At this level of *rough* carpentry, its probably not worth avoiding screwing into end grain, but do predrill the holes full depth to the root diameter of the screw, then the piece it goes right through to a (min.) clearance hole. Keep all holes at least 10 mm from the edge to avoid splitting, and use long chipboard screws for enough grip.N.B. due to the clearance hole over the chipboard screw thread this sort of joint is not suitable for significant sheer loading, but screws into end grain shouldn't be sheer loaded anyway. If you need that you'd need to cross-drill for a barrel nut, use a bolt in a hole that's a tight fit on its shank, and ideally notch in the joint to resist splitting forces on the end grain.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 11:04:36 am
content: In terms of joinery, it is best to just stick to wood screws unless you are more experienced with woodworking and have good tools for it.You can make most of the joints easily by just by overlapping the pieces you want to join and send a screw trough both of them. The clamping force of the screw (or 2 or 3) is usually all you need to hold it together. If it is a joint that might be seeing a lot of torsion stress then you can just put some wood glue in the joint right before screwing it down. That will make a joint that is in most cases so strong that the wood around the joint will fail before the actual joint. It is easy and requires only a drill. Just make sure to get the correct screws with tread in the right place to only grip the bottom piece of wood.But in general it is best to avoid torsion stress on the joints when possible. Better to add some extra wood into the corners to brace the joint in that direction. Not only does this make it a stronger but also makes it much stiffer (since wood is otherwise a pretty flexible springy material), for workbenches this means it will wobble a lot less side to side. For this particular bench i would just put a back board onto one row of shelves to act as the bracing in the left and right direction, same for the sides to prevent forward/backward sway. Or you can avoid bracing by screwing the back of the bench into a wall, that makes it feel really stiff (but i try to avoid that).

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 12:11:23 pm
content: I just went for construction-grade 2x4 and 18mm MDF over the top (the cheapest option, like the OP did), sanded, oiled and sealed with several coats of oil-based urethane. 600 deep by around 2000 wide, and most importantly a fence of 2x4 around three sides so nothing can fall off. The shelving is more MDF which slides over the fence and is held in place by that. I'm slowly moving stuff over into that area while avoiding cramming in everything possible, with the photo carefully angled to not show what's off to the left, which is decidedly less organised and more crammed.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 12:18:59 pm
content: Quote from: Faranight on January 03, 2024, 06:23:39 amI'd thought of running an LED light strip along the front of the shelf for illumination. Mine's sized in such a way that there's workspace underneath the shelves, currently I'm using a desk lamp or optionally a magnifying lamp for fine work, but having light that's just there without getting in the way would be nice.

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 12:24:42 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on January 03, 2024, 10:18:48 amI have looked into biscuit jointing before and kind of turned my nose up at the cost of the hardware, something like a trim router might be a little limating, but still I can do way more with that then some one off tool.Dowel joinery or these odd router bits that will dig out channels so that you can press two bits of timber together, was a little more up my ally.Quote from: Ian.M on January 03, 2024, 10:18:48 amI'm a little more comfortable with trenching, so far I have used my router and circular saw to cut them out, I have build a set of shelving as a trial and it came out great. The bookshelf also used it too and while it might not be required, still helps me move forward with trying other building techniquesQuote from: Ian.M on January 03, 2024, 10:18:48 amI am using this stuff as support,https://www.bunnings.com.au/42-x-19mm-3-0m-dar-pine-premium_p8401459something I can jam a screw or six into for support, I used it for the bookcase and display shelving.As for screws, I think they are deck screws or some kind of outdoor stuff, even then my first set of shelves are using them and for about two years I think, are holding up a bunch of computers and some other hardware.Quote from: Berni on January 03, 2024, 11:04:36 amI had though about using wood glue, but at some point I might need to take them down. So carving out a channel and using screws to hold things together are my go to. I have tried wood glue and love it, for smaller things I have used it.Quote from: Berni on January 03, 2024, 11:04:36 amI am not allowed to put holes in the walls, so this had to be free standing.I do wish I had more money for timber and help with transport, but I don't if I need to I can tack on something else at the back, but I was kind of hoping that the middle shelf would had a bit of strength to the whole setup.Quote from: 5U4GB on January 03, 2024, 12:18:59 pmOh, you should see my LED's!

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 12:43:24 pm
content: Quote from: mictas on January 03, 2024, 12:24:42 pmIs this the modern version of "come and see my etchings"? :-).Speaking of LED illumination though, what do people do to keep this as noise-free as possible? Use something likethis (12V linear supply)to power it?

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 12:55:17 pm
content: Quote from: mictas on January 03, 2024, 12:24:42 pmThe middle shelf does add some twist rigidity but not all that much. I would rather move the supports holding the shelf up to instead support the top surface. That way it won't bow if you put something heavy on it in one spot.You don't need a whole back board to get the rigidity benefits tho. I just mentioned it because it is easy to do. You can already get most of the rigidity benefits by simply screwing a much smaller triangle shaped piece of wood onto the corners. This holds the joint into an 90 degree angle, making it more rigid against twist. You can often make these from small wood off cuts (that are often too small to be useful for anythyng) by cutting them diagonally, giving you two triangles to stick in corners.

author: Fryguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 10:36:32 pm
content: Yes 5U4GB , i use linear PSUs in my lab for almost everything - only the laptop and the scope have switchmodes .Even my industrial floodlight (160W LED lighting the ceiling above the bench) is linear powered . . .

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2024, 12:39:33 am
content: Quote from: moffy on January 02, 2024, 10:16:32 pmAbout two milliseconds.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2024, 12:45:52 am
content: Quote from: Alex Eisenhut on January 04, 2024, 12:39:33 amWell, that's 1 millisecond longer than mine!

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2024, 06:27:15 am
content: I finished my own bench extension, probably over done on supports but it should keep a flush edge.

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2024, 01:55:02 am
content: I built my bench at 900 and have a high lift chair which works comfortably.More important was the bench top. I made the top from cheap 9ply and then tacked a 3mm Masonite sheet on top. When the Masonite has had sufficient burns, glue bumps and divots I’ll just take it off and tack a new one down. I built it to a standard 1200 long sheet size so I don’t need to cut the Masonite when it comes to replacement.I scored the lumber at Bunnings during a random sale, so the whole thing including bolts and casters was less than $50. I’ve had it 11 years and haven’t had to replace the top yet. However, that may be due to the fact you’ve not been able to see the top for about 11 years minus 30 seconds.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2024, 02:15:11 am
content: Quote from: BradC on January 19, 2024, 01:55:02 amNice, you should post a picture of it. I just half finished a shelf for my bench will post a picture when rearranged.

author: chubbymonk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2024, 06:05:36 am
content: Might also want to look into getting a nice anti-static mat for the workbench, it goes a long way for the look and feel! If you're in Sydney, there's a couple local companies which supply quality ones for quite reasonable prices as well. It really just tied everything together in my case.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2024, 06:22:18 am
content: Quote from: chubbymonk on January 19, 2024, 06:05:36 amOr move somewhere with crazy high humidity, indoor humidity here is currently 84%. Upside: Never experienced any static, ever. Downside: Everything rusts and corrodes.

author: chubbymonk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2024, 06:30:06 am
content: Quote from: 5U4GB on January 19, 2024, 06:22:18 amThere's other upsides to having an anti-static mat apart from just it's ESD properties as well. It's a durable, heat resistant and soft (-ish) work surface that protects the workbench and also anything you have on it as well.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2024, 06:30:37 am
content: Quote from: chubbymonk on January 19, 2024, 06:05:36 amI managed to set one on fire at Uni during a power lab, I found out that they were somewhat conductive and best not to have naked mains wires touching the mat. That was a while ago and hopefully that still isn't the case but I've been a little reluctant since.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2024, 06:47:51 am
content: Quote from: chubbymonk on January 19, 2024, 06:30:06 amSure, I was being tongue-in-cheek. In my case I use the biggest silicone workmat I could find (there are vast numbers of these available from anyone from legit electronics places to your favourite crapvendor), so I'd definitely recommend one even if you don't explicitly need the anti-static protection.

author: chubbymonk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2024, 06:49:55 am
content: Quote from: moffy on January 19, 2024, 06:30:37 amA good one should definitely not have a conductive top layer (if any of them even do?). For example the mat I've got is made of two layers, a rugged static dissipative top layer that is not conductive whatsoever, and then the somewhat conductive bottom layer. I believe in one of Dave's videos he showed off the ruggedness of such a mat, definitely shouldn't be an issue in somehow shorting out anything with a proper one.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2024, 07:14:30 am
content: One comment for anyone considering buying one, be aware that sellers present deceptive photos of the mats that make them look a lot bigger than they actually are, so check the dimensions before buying - 300x200, 300x400, and 300x450 are popular, with a chunk of even that tiny space taken up by storage slots. I'd go for bath-mat size (600x400) or something close to it if you can find one. It's not cheap, butGamers Nexushave a decent-sized and well-thought-out one that I'd be tempted to get if I was in the US.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2024, 03:14:00 am
content: Have completed and fitted my shelf, took a photo before equipment clutter and looking forward to using the enhanced workspace.

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2024, 12:56:32 am
content: So it has been a bit of time and while I do not have the lighting set in stone and I have to add that I need to setup my semi DIY LCD mount, I have so far gotten to a point where most of it is setup, plus I did tack on some extra shelving.I did kind of rip some paint off the wall and make a hole or two that I will need to fix, before I can settle everything in, but for the mean time, please see the attached photos.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2024, 03:28:01 am
content: So its strictly a standing workbench with no knee room under it whatsoever!

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2024, 08:58:09 am
content: Quote from: Ian.M on January 28, 2024, 03:28:01 amOnce its all done, I'll have a table I can also use.

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2024, 05:45:21 am
content: And for my last update, all workbenches need a monitor, so I semi DIYed a monitor mount onto my shelving.One of the photos also shows things a little more packed, I still have not moved most things into place because I need to repaint some damage I made on the walls.That work is still pending until this week end with any luck.

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 08:53:30 pm
content: My workbench is 2.45m long and 1.1m wide with a 34cm wide shelf. With all the junk that resides on it, I still have a generous 130x60cm work area.The table top is a piece of melamine and the frame is 2x4. Fully covered with an old green ESD mat and a newer, movable mat on top. That top mat gets replaced often with leftovers from work, once they lose the stink. Fully opened underneath where I store a looot of junk.MitiEdit: Forgot about the big window on the left.

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2024, 06:22:16 pm
content: Quote from: Miti on February 04, 2024, 08:53:30 pmYou mean, your workplace only accepts ESD mats while they are still properly stinking?

author: Neepa
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2024, 08:22:30 pm
content: Currently building my own too.My actual Desk space is one half of my 180cm by 80cm Computer/bench desk. Currently there is a simple extension mounted to a wall for it carrying my equipment. But that will be replaced essentially by a wooden monstrosity of a rack/shelf hybrid to carry my large scale equipment like the HP4145 or my Spectrum/Network Analyzer and Plotters. Inch thick side walls and boards on that one.Extending over the desk half will be another L shaped shelf to carry tooling and other stuff. Since I'm renting the whole thing is capable of being torn down and erected in a new apartment provided I got a wall free at least three meters long.All furniture grade beech. Desk included. And aside from the raw boards completely diy.

author: MikeK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2024, 09:03:28 pm
content: Quote from: Miti on February 04, 2024, 08:53:30 pmWhat is that plane by the calendar? And is it FF or R/C?

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2024, 05:52:31 pm
content: Quote from: ebastler on February 05, 2024, 06:22:16 pmI don’t think so, even though it seems that way.That new, China made, green mat has such a toxic stench that gives me headaches. It gets better after few months though and that’s when I start using the left overs that I save from the dumpster.

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2024, 05:59:04 pm
content: Quote from: MikeK on February 05, 2024, 09:03:28 pmPhoton motor glider RC, the remote is on the left side of the shelf.Under the desk there’s a Zephyr delta wing, amazing flier! Both made out of foam board.https://youtu.be/ZfqGrzCKauw?si=Ju30-xd11IGTSTD7