solder don't stick, new tip. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: datboi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 31, 2022, 12:32:04 pm
content: solder isn't sticking at all to my iron.i always tin it when turning it off, not sure maybe i didn't do it properly one time and it oxidized.i tried dipping it in rosin and applying tin to try to re-tin in like in some youtube videos, but it don't worki also tried very lightly brushing it with a brass sponge to remove the oxidation layer but nothing seems to help.why am i having so many issues with this? how do i remove the oxide layer and re-tin it?(i can't use tip tinner as they don't sell it here, i had to buy it from the internet but delivery is gonna take a while)is there any way i can restore my tip without tip tinner? i've seen people do it with rosin but it doesn't work((https://imgur.com/a/j3l0qSJpicsthe rosin i'm using:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002801472825.html?_randl_currency=EUR&_randl_shipto=IT&src=google&memo1=freelisting&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=12556513086&albag=120214549340&trgt=1481207949271&crea=it1005002801472825&netw=u&device=c&albpg=1481207949271&albpd=it1005002801472825&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_4-SBhCgARIsAAlegrUQKp1G6cDaYwGJa-OD7DsuE7LMX1BzaFRBTCQU1M2fWtvEdiE3fSsaAnhVEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=927281fdeb24470093163911f4813a5f-1648678691508-00509-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=927281fdeb24470093163911f4813a5f-1648678691508-00509-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=bd5a0ec06bc14e2fa73f92cedb8a6af1&afSmartRedirect=yalso i have a liquid rosin that is transparent, can't remember where i got that tho. not sure what it is but it gets the job done.the solder i'm using is likely a 60/40, it doesn't say anything other than it being 2% flux. so since it doesn't specify it's lead free i'm guessing it's a 60/40

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2022, 01:07:07 pm
content: When it gets so bad, usually the only way is scrapping the oxide layer.Use a fine scourer/sand paper and be gentle, you only want to remove the oxide layer, minimizing the damage to the metal.Once clean, set a low temperature, 250ºC or so, and tin it quickly.The metal will be very clean, so it will oxidize almost instantly if it gets too hot without the tin layer protecting it.It will take some work once it gets so bad.That oxide layer will form in various ways:- Letting the iron run hot and dry for long periods of time, specially when running >350ºC.- Not cleaning the flux residues, they will attack the tip if left for too long.- Using lead-free solder with not lead-free designed tip.

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2022, 01:19:14 pm
content: I have found some tips that seem to dislike solder. For whatever crazy reason I had found a gold plated tip at a hamfest and thought it would be nice to use. It could transfer heat to the work but nothing stuck to the tip. I have also had bad luck with certain 'iron clad' tips that just get weird with use and act like they are allergic to solder. They refuse to wet. My iron for most utilitarian use is an old Ungar and I like the copper screw-in tips although they wear quickly and are kind of soft. The iron clad tips last longer but I have to wipe them across a damp sponge often to keep them shiny or else they seem to load up with non heat conducting crud.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2022, 03:57:18 pm
content: Welcome to the forums. also posted herehttps://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?p=1122069You're using aliexpress tips and solder? You get what you pay for. The tip looks so poorly made I would not expect the plating to be decent either.I would never use sandpaper or a scouring pad, I find a piece of wood is as abrasive as I would go. It'll burn and smoke a bit scraping with a hot tip. But you need really good rosin to clear oxides as well.Your solder or the tip, or the tip temp can be to blame.

author: datboi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 31, 2022, 09:48:14 pm
content: Quote from: DavidAlfa on March 31, 2022, 01:07:07 pmhow exactly are tips made? copper on the inside with steel or something on the outside? or is there some additional layer of something on the steel?hot and dry for long? exacly how long? lets say i'm soldering stuff, i'll solder, clean the tip with the sponge it and maybe rest it for a minute or 2 until i need to make the next, i never leave it for 5 minutes or longer on without using it.about cleaning flux. i use a wet sponge, that ok? or brass sponge better?

author: datboi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 31, 2022, 09:51:24 pm
content: Quote from: floobydust on March 31, 2022, 03:57:18 pmi didn't buy it on aliexpress, i only got the rosin because i couldn't find it here in my country, i only found the hard solid one which i dislike. the iron is pretty decent, i upgraded from my old kemper one, it has temp control etc. it's not cheap, it's not expensive, basically what you'd buy for occasional solderingthe rosin has 4.5 stars on amazon so i'm guessing it ain't that bad? definitely better than the solid one from the hardware store that's for sure

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2022, 10:39:54 pm
content: Never put the iron down without a sacrificial blob of solder on it.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2022, 11:11:34 pm
content: That tip looks to be totally knackered. The only part that is wetted with solder is the very end and it appears to have a conical depression in the end!It looks like the iron plating layer has eroded through (or cracked) on the working face of the tip, and the solder has dissolved out the copper from under it till the end of the tip collapsed.Time for a new tip, and treat the next one better - don't scratch or pry with it, clean and re-tin before switching off or when putting it back in the stand, switch off when not actively using it and *NEVER* use acid flux! Ammonium chloride based tip tinner/cleaners are only acceptable if you wet clean the tip as soon as possible after use to remove chloride residue.

author: datboi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 01, 2022, 12:03:36 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on March 31, 2022, 11:11:34 pmbut that's how i always used this tip, always tin before switching off, never scratched it etc. yet it still got damaged

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2022, 12:32:03 pm
content: All it takes to ruin a tip, is to drop the iron on its tip *ONCE* from a height of a foot or so, or to press too hard when soldering. The tip bends slightly cracking the iron plating, letting solder through to dissolve the copper underneath.You can also ruin a tip by letting PVC or other plastic containing halogens burn on it. Acids from the burning plastic rapidly erode the iron plating exposing the copper core.Also any sort of acid flux (usually ones containing zinc chloride) can ruin a tip in a few hours use.Cheap tips often have thinner plating than the genuine OEM ones for your type of iron, and tend to wear out quicker. High bit temperatures can destroy a tip quickly - anything over 400 deg C (~ 750 deg F) is likely to reduce the usable life to days or even hours.Also if you use a wet sponge for tip cleaning, if its too wet, it can thermally shock the bit and possibly crack the iron plating, or mineral residue from your tap water can build up and attack the plating - always wash out the sponge thoroughly and squeeze till nearly dry before use, and if your water is heavily mineralized, use deionised water to rinse the sponge after washing it, and to wet it as necessary during the day.The first time you use a new tip its important to get the whole working surface properly tinned without delay, up to the line where the plating surface finish changes. Keep the temperature as low as possible - but solder should melt readily if rubbed on the bit - untill its fully tinned.