[Fixed] Repair/Restoration of a Fluke187 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2016, 05:58:54 pm
content: HiI have just got a Fluke187 from ebay. It was sold as spares or repair but was said to be working except for the input jacks being removed. The pictures did not show the ugly truthThe input jacks have sheared off and someone has cut them in halfThe fuses are missingThe top half of the case will not stay on because the plastic for the screws have sheared offSomeone has made an attempt to fix the screw fixings but failedThe screws for the top 2 fixings are missingThe rubber casing is coming off bcause the glue has failedNo leads were supplied (but then they did not say included leads)The good pointsBatteries were included.Meter does work, volts and ohms have been tested ok.Its a FlukeMore to come

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2016, 06:02:29 pm
content: More picture of the outside.Does anyone have suggestions on what will remove the marker pen please?The battery plate is ok and there are screws in the lower half of the meter.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2016, 06:08:16 pm
content: As I said, I tested the meter and it does work. I connected some wire to a voltage source and touched the wires on the pads where the input jacks should be.Initally, it did not work. Then I realised that the meter has probe detection, this basically works because the input jacks have 2 halves, when no probe is inserted the 2 halves are not joined. When a probe is inserted, the 2 halves are joined and shorted together.I shorted the 2 pcb holes for the jacks together and bingo the meter would measure voltage and resistance.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2016, 06:13:44 pm
content: I said the upper half of the meter does not hold together because it is missing the screws. It is missing the screws because the plastic for them is wrecked.Someone has already tried to fix it but failedMy first job is to try and drill out the plastic/glue/resin for new screws.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2016, 06:33:04 pm
content: The meter has suffered from the well know problem of the input jacks shearing off their pins to the PCB.Mrmodemhead has a full blog about the problem and how to rebuild themhttp://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-80-series-jack-assembly-rebuild/Here are some pics of the jacks:I think someone cut the assembly in half to try the good jacks instead of the bad ones, just something I would think of trying. Do not know why they did not leave it that way.I have been looking for replacment jacks but the postage makes the around £40 from the USA. Does some one have a input jack assembley they want to give/trade/sell to me please?I will contact Fluke UK but I would imagine it will be no cheaperI guess I am going to have to try and dig out the plastic and try to solder replacement leads to the assembly. I know, it probably will not work but I have nothing to loose at this point

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2016, 06:41:20 pm
content: Once I have sorted the jacks and screws, cleaned up the case, the last problem is the rubber case is coming off the plastic.Pics attached.What would people recommend to reglue it back on?I can easily get: superglue, gorila glue, contact adhesive, bostick, pva, double sided carpet tape

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 10, 2016, 04:16:49 am
content: I don't have any specific advice for glueing that type of case, have you seen the sticky topic that might cover some of your issues, some great postshttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/vintageclassic-renovation-techniques/Don't forget the big guys like Fluke often keep a back catalogue of parts, sometimes can make a repair look like new. Good luck, Rob

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 10, 2016, 04:20:25 am
content: I found something that may be of use see reply 72 ofhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/keithley-179-trms-dmm-repairrefurb/50/

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2016, 12:44:54 pm
content: HiSo I spent a little time cleaning the exterior. Started by gathering what cleaning materials I have around the house. I do not have pumace hand cleaner (recommended by Mrmodemhead) but I have toothpaste, which is mildly abrasive (and leaves and minty smell)I started by dissassembling the parts. The battery tabs take quite a bit of fiddling to get them out, made good use of my new spudging toolsUsed warm soapy water to scrub the plastic, toothpaste to scrub the rubber. The toothpaste actually works but it did not come out perfect, still minor signs of dirt.I wanted to do bot front and back halves at the same time but I could not get the rotary dial off the front. Does anyone know how to get the rotary switch dial off without breaking anything?

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2016, 12:47:29 pm
content: Before and after picsYou can see what a big different on the battery plate

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2016, 01:29:35 pm
content: Good job on the restoration so far.I've never had any success completely removing Sharpie markings on the yellow overmold. It will lighten up with alcohol, but never completely go away. If the police were to raid my place, they would think I have stolen Rick's meter, Rodger's meter, and the Aerospace Dept's meter, amongst others...For the screw post problems, I have had some success on old 70-series meters by dremeling off the old broken plastic and affixing some 6-32 threaded spacers with epoxy plastic repair putty. The advantage with the older models is that once you put them back into their holsters there is little strain on the screws to hold the case together.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2016, 09:30:37 pm
content: Thanks VK5RC, I have looked at the threads. The main one I have been looking at is the Mrmodemhead web site.Mrmodemhead, thanks. I will use the alcohol like you suggested first, then I thought why not try bleach/chlorine. I think it does not affect plastics (most) and does not affect rubber. I will give it a try on a little bit first.Yes, I thought of using something from thesehttp://uk.farnell.com/captive-nutsbut you are right, I can just use a hex threaded spacer, got some somewhere.In the mean time, still plan on drilling out the mess and trying to use self tapping screws.Something like thesehttp://uk.farnell.com/tr-fastenings/3-020prst30tc1d/screw-pozi-thread-forming-m3-x/dp/2474943If i cannot get original Fluke screws.MrModemHead, how do I get the control knob off so that I can clean the front half please?I did not want to force it and break something.Does it have something todo with the white hex nut?

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2016, 10:48:09 pm
content: Quote from: MosherIV on September 11, 2016, 09:30:37 pmIt's not a hex nut, it's actually the plastic (boo!) hexagonal shaft attached to the knob.Turn the front cover upside down and place on top of two pieces of wood or something. Place the supports close to the knob, but clear of the knob. Then take an unshrouded banana plug, place it in the hole in the middle of the hex shaft. Press hard. The knob will pop out the other side.To reassemble, notice that the shaft is keyed, and start it back into the rotor. Then just squeeze it all back together. It will snap back together easier than it comes apart.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2016, 12:29:22 am
content: Thank you MrModemHead, I will try and get the front selector knob off so that I ca clean the front half.In the mean time here is a quick pick of the cleaned back against the front. The Battery plate is the original yellow, the rubber on the back did not come out pristine (slightly different shade of yellow compared to the plastic) but is much better than it was, as can be seen fron the top half.I also soldered the current input jacks back on, started to try and hack the volt/ohm and common jacks, post pics of that when I can take them.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2016, 05:20:19 am
content: Grab yourself a tub of Swarfega. It works wonders on most soft plastics. Also on skin.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2016, 09:37:43 pm
content: Thanks again to MrModemHead. Yes, the dial just poped out using a 4mm banana plugManaged to do it by just holding it and pushing with the end of a lead with a banana plug.Pics attachedIs petroleum gel ok for lubricant when I reassemble it?Thanks Monkeh, I forgot I have a tub of swarfega under the sinkWill give it another go.After doing some more searching and reading, it sounds like Fluke UK are little help when it comes to parts. In another thread SJ Electronics are recommended here in the UK.I will give them both a call tomorrow with my shopping list.I started hacking my broken probe jacks but did not do anything tonight since there may be a possibility of geting new jacks quickly

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2016, 09:42:39 pm
content: It will be Wed when I next get a chance to continue the resturation. Probably more cleaning.Must do a little bit of sanding down the plastic and rubber in readiness of glueing.I think I will use epxoy resin.After a little reading, bleach is not a good idea for rubber, ok for most plastics.

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2016, 11:02:55 pm
content: Quote from: MosherIV on September 12, 2016, 09:37:43 pmSilicone grease is preferred to avoid softening plastic or damaging the rubber O-ring. However, speaking anecdotally of course, I have used petroleum jelly in a pinch to lube plastics for years without dissolving anything yet. YMMV

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2016, 07:29:42 pm
content: Ok, have to get some silicone grease, turns out that Maplins is cheaper for a tube of electrolube silicone grease than Farnell, first time I have ever know Maplins to be cheaperDid not have a chance to do anything on the meter last night.Just had a go at drilling out the screw holesBefore picAfter picAlso, been on the phine to SJ electronics, got a quote for replacement jacks

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2016, 05:54:38 pm
content: I ended up having some time on Thu night so I cleaned the top half of the case.PicsBeforeAfterI forgot to put the battery cover on this pic. Could not get the marker out at all.Here is the other side of the meter.The rubber is much cleaner but still a different shade to the PVC. Tried swarfega hand wash, made no difference.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2016, 05:56:15 pm
content: Swarfega wins again.

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2016, 06:02:25 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on September 16, 2016, 05:56:15 pmI gotta have some of that stuff!

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2016, 06:03:55 pm
content: I have also been trying to source the missing parts. Still working on input jack and screws.It appears that Fluke will not sell them in small quantities, they onky sell in packs of 100.How many people in UK/europe would be interrested in buying Fluke meter screws from me?

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2016, 06:06:06 pm
content: I have been busy getting other missing bits.1 pair of original Fluke leads.Silicone grease.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2016, 06:12:44 pm
content: So today, I started the process of glueing the rubber case back on. I decided to use epoxy resin and to do it in 2 sessions. I realised that to get the rubber aligned on 3 sides was just not going to work, so I am going to do it in 2 sessions.Here are some picsI masked off the fron just in case of glue over spill on the from or front side rubber, makes it ugly.Here is the meter in a clamp where I am holding the rubber flush to the body.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2016, 06:19:22 pm
content: The corners are quite tricky, I had to use clothes pegs to hold the corners

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2016, 10:25:35 pm
content: The first shell gluing was not a great sucess, I think the epoxy I used is too old and going off. It did not hold very well.I tried some other epoxy I have, which is a lot less old but from a cheapo shop.PicTo get a better holding action, I used loads of elastic bands.Unfortunatley while glueing, the plastic well for the screws at the bottom broke off, I think the hot water during the washing must have stressed the plasticPicOn the positive side, I can use the screws I do have for the top and I do not have to buy more screws. For the broken lower screws I will have to cut off the plastic and replace with metal hex spacer.

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2016, 12:44:59 am
content: Do a search on element14.com for part FLUKE 89-4-8002 Fluke 87-4 89-4 187 189 Input Jack Receptacle Module Assembly

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 06:56:31 am
content: Thanks casinada, but element14/newark will not ship to the uk.Farnell, which is the same company for some reason will not recognise the part numbers and therefore will not sell the itemI have found Fluke UK will talk to you, not too bad for customer support BUT they will not sell parts to the general public, you have to go through a distributor.I said that I would go talk to S J Eletronics, and I bought the bits I needed through them.I started on glueing screw post to replace the broken plastic, I will take some pics later today and post them.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 09:47:13 pm
content: So here is a pic of the broken screw post (taken when I was glueing the rubber back on)Here is a pic of the hex spacer glued in.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 09:58:42 pm
content: I also drilled out the previously broken screw holes.They had been filled in by someone else.I started by drilling out with progressively bigger drill bits, 2mm, 3.5mm, 4mm, 5mmFinally, after checking by hand with the hex spacers (5mm diameter), I found they were too toght.So I used a 5.5mm bit and just cut the plastic by hand with this drill bit.Here is a pic of the result :I have just glued a hex specer into one of the holes. I will post of pic of how this turns out.

author: mos6502
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 11:39:05 pm
content: Good job. A few days ago I fixed a Fluke 88 (input jack pins broken) using Mrmodemhead's excellent instructions.For lubing the knob, I would stay away from any type of grease or oil. I use teflon (PTFE) spray. This is a solid lubricant and it's perfect for plastics rubbing against plastics. Greases or oils will absorb dirt and grime, turning them into an abrasive paste and wearing away the plastic. Silicone grease is good for internal wiping contacts where foreign matter can't get into.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2016, 02:42:46 am
content: Quote from: mos6502 on September 26, 2016, 11:39:05 pmHe will be happy to hear that. Other than him, I don't think anyone else has publicly said they have done the repair until now?

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2016, 12:31:02 pm
content: Quote from: MosherIV on September 26, 2016, 09:58:42 pmI hope you can get the glue to hold. On the plus side, this gets rid of the need for special self-tapping screws!

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2016, 07:16:58 pm
content: QuoteYes, so do I.Here is a pic of all 3 hex spacers glued in place

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2016, 07:21:07 pm
content: Some close up pics1st hex, glued to side wall and remains of plastic stub.2nd hex, glued into hole drilled into filled plastic, just held on sides

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2016, 09:44:22 pm
content: Have you succeeded in removing the permanemt marker yet?I know acetone will get it off but it often also messes up the underlying plastick.Try a small area of the inside of the casing first to see if this plastick can withstand it.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2016, 10:24:41 pm
content: QuoteAffraid not. Just tried nail polish remover with accetone and did not make any difference to the marker.

author: Muttley Snickers
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 28, 2016, 10:31:02 pm
content: Below is the Fluke 83 I rebuilt a while ago and it was absolutely filthy when I got it, a $20 Gumtree find listed as seriously fxxxxd up and covered in all sorts of deeply embedded crap, anyway warm soapy water and a nail brush took most of it away and on some difficult areas a worn out scotch bright pad was required but seemed to remove the sheen or gloss of the holster, I haven’t used it yet but some Armor All should bring back part of the sheen but may make the holster somewhat slippery.The local recycle depot sells all sorts of stuff and they have a bad habit of writing prices on goods with a white permanent marker which is a real pain to remove and it seems to embed deeply into a variety of products particularly rubber and plastics, IPA won’t do anything and methylated spirits does help a little bit, anyway one day whist around there I mentioned it to one of the sales staff and asked if they could use something else and she said that eucalyptus oil takes it straight off without any signs or damage, I’m yet to try it but keen to do so.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2016, 10:40:53 pm
content: Nice jobs o the Fluke 83QuoteJust tried oil of eucalyptus (had an old bottle lying around) and it made no difference.My meter now smells minty, hint of strawberry (from the nail polish remover) and now eucalyptus

author: Muttley Snickers
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 28, 2016, 10:55:53 pm
content: Oh well, I figured it was worth a try and she said it works great but probably just on freshly marked stuff, anyway if you have trouble finding your multimeter just go down wind.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2016, 10:32:10 am
content: QuoteIt did notJust tried closing the case for fit and did screws up.Felt screw tighten then lossen, blast!Oh, well. Will have to drill out the plastic and use longer hex spacers and glue to side wall.

author: Robomeds
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2016, 02:02:52 am
content: Do keep in mind that if you intend do deal with high voltages the screw bosses might provide a path for voltage to get out of the case. Probably not but Fluke did design the thing with non-conductive boses. Of course that isn't a concern if you are going to keep the meter in a low energy, low voltage environment.

author: mos6502
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2016, 06:12:23 pm
content: You could try spacers with threads on the other end, like this:Another option would be to form new screw posts using epoxy putty. Then drill the proper size hole for your screw.Quote from: retiredcaps on September 27, 2016, 02:42:46 amThat would be a shame. It's really straightforward once you know the procedure. If done properly, you can't even tell it was repaired unless you know exactly what to look for. The hardest thing was finding the brass tubing. I simply cut up some cheap chinese multimeter probes that had the perfect size brass tubing inside them.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2016, 06:10:09 am
content: QuoteYes, good idea. I was thinking about something like this.I do not have any, so I will see what the local hardware store has.Thanks.

author: mos6502
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2016, 06:50:55 am
content: I don't know if you'll find them in a hardware store, those are commonly used in PC cases to hold the motherboard. Search for "motherboard standoff".

author: All2skitzd
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 05, 2016, 02:58:29 pm
content: I've used just Magic Erasers to clean the yellow part with great success.On those broken screw threads plastic welding would be the way to go but not everyone has one of those machines including me but it's not beyond me to go buy one use it and return it and youd have to be careful not to distort the shape.. If your you are going to go with any kinda glue or epoxy I would sand down the areas with 60 grit and take a cutting bit or something and make sure the glue has something to hold on to. Jb-weld and loctite make some stuff for plastic that works ok, at the autoparts store I got some putty epoxie where you just cut it and mix it and it seems to work pretty good, I used it on a clear refillable Bic ligher after accidently hitting the charging port while lighting it while driving resulting in big fireball over a year ago and it's still on there good after being used a ton, picked at, washed in washing machine.If you do go buy those brass risers, take note of the thread pitch in the inside of it, if you put a regular 6/32 screw in a fine tread on it's way to tight

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2016, 06:32:55 pm
content: Thanks All2skitzd and Mos6502.I have been away on holiday so have not had a chance to do anything on my meter.I have just received the parts I needed :440mA fuse, 11A fuse and input jacksI got then fromhttp://www.sjelectronics.co.uk/

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2016, 12:22:55 pm
content: I have removed the old input jacks and installed the new input jacks now.I popped into the local hardware store (iron mongers) and as expected, they did not have the standoffs

author: Ordinaryman1971
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2016, 07:41:33 pm
content: Does anybody have an access to the Service manual for the Fluke 189/187.I need a parts numbers for the positive, negative and dual battery contacts for this meter.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2016, 08:39:18 pm
content: Quote from: Ordinaryman1971 on October 17, 2016, 07:41:33 pmAs bigsky pointed out in the other threadhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-187/msg1050016/#msg1050016there is no service manual for the 187/189 that has BOM list and/or schematic.As for the battery contacts, a-fluke sells them on ebayhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/371755461858but for a whopping $60 USD. You can make your own or try finding 3rd party battery contacts for 1/10th the price. I have seen people use their own contacts after the AA have leaked and corroded the terminals.Or you can trying cleaning them like I didhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/fluke-187-corroded-battery-terminals-how-to-clean/

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2016, 09:03:44 pm
content: QuoteRetiredcaps is correct, the service manual does not have the part numbers you are looking for.He is also right a new set of contacts will be in the region of $60, you can talk to Fluke service and get the part numbers, they may sell them to you or they will tell you who their agents are in the US but their price will be similar to the ebay sellers.Another alternative is to look for units for sale as spares or repair on ebay, that is how I got my meter.Good luck.

author: Ordinaryman1971
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2016, 04:17:42 pm
content: Well, let me rephrase the question then, does anybody know the Fluke part number for the:Positive contact:Negative contact:Dual contact:I've seen the ebay postings for those but I'm pretty sure it would be a lot cheaper from Fluke than from those guys.Somehow I have the feeling they are not doing it for free... they are making money on it.... I would.I've actually called Fluke to order but they asked me for the part number which I didn't know and that was basically the end of the conversation.So... I'm pretty sure there is a Service Manual for this thing even if there is no parts list in it...Anybody out there having one....

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2016, 06:43:15 pm
content: QuoteI doubt it. I bought the input jacks through a distributor and the price they quoted was the same as what Fluke quoted. I have no idea how ebay traders are making their moneyQuoteI had to do the same thing to get the part number for the input jacks.I spoke to the service people NOT the parts people.If there is another service manual with a brakedown of parts, it is not circulating on the internet.

author: Ordinaryman1971
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2016, 07:27:31 pm
content: I just called the Fluke few minutes ago and they offered me a replacement... but I've been told that the parts are no longer available and there is no parts list... basically they swatted me like a bug.The meter is obsolete since 2007.Very sad story. It looks like they want to keep it a secret.I would love to for like 1000 people to call Fluke to inquire about the same thing, over and over again.... maybe that would bring the service manual out of Fluke's basement and let us look at it and and check for ourselves what is the secret all about.Maybe somebody out there has a number for the CEO... maybe he will have a service manual in his basement.I know.. I know... there are pictures of the naked PCB there in a service manual, they are afraid that general population would get to excited.... well,let me tell you, I've seen it before.Well, I wanted to buy from THE Fluke... I guess I would have to buy from afluke which buys from the Fluke because they are allowed to know the secret.Sad story.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2016, 09:48:38 pm
content: Back on topic restoration of a Fluke187.So I got some spacers with a stud.I drilled and tapped the original holes, then fitted the new spacers.And......... the spacers do not fitThe diameter of them is too large to fit down the plastic. The original spacers are 5mm in diameter, the new ones are 5.5mmLooks like I will have to file then down by hand, busy weekend to come

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2016, 10:45:46 pm
content: This is quite a rabbit-hole, isn't it?

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 20, 2016, 11:12:18 am
content: Bummer re the spacers but when you fix that meter it will be so good.

author: Twoflower
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2016, 11:24:12 am
content: To increase the pull strength of the connection glue-spacer I would add some kind of structure/grooves into the spacer. Or I would actually use threaded inserts.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2016, 11:55:33 am
content: Thanks VK5RC and ModemHead.After several hours of hand filing, I now have the spacers on the top half.After re-assembling, the spacer on the lower half broke off.Yes Twoflower, I tried re-enforcing one of the spacers but it did not work.To save time, I bought some more spacers. They are on the way.The broken spacer is on the right by the holes for the input jacks, picture taken before it broke.While I had it together, it worked -mostly. The 'setup' and 'backlight' keys did not work

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2016, 12:26:27 pm
content: Epoxy putty has been mentioned before, but here's a link to the product:http://www.jbweld.com/products/plasticweld-epoxy-puttyIt might be worth experimenting with. It has the advantage over regular epoxy of not oozing all over the place while setting up.

author: Twoflower
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2016, 01:18:05 pm
content: I might misunderstood what you tried.With the threaded inserts I wasn't thinking of reinforcing the spacers but replace the spacers with a matching threaded insert. As they have a threat on the outside too they should be perfect for glueing.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2016, 07:15:25 pm
content: New hex spacers arrived today. Got 2 sizes, just in case.Tapped hole and fitted spacer.Figured out why light was not working, I had put the screw in before the circuit board, once I put the screw through the circuit board it workedHere it is all finished

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 30, 2016, 10:36:18 am
content: Looking good,

author: WackyGerman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2016, 11:49:20 am
content: Good job

author: pelule
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2016, 08:46:27 pm
content: Well doneAnother Reborn Fluke.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2016, 12:50:54 pm
content: enjoy!

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2016, 01:33:44 pm
content: Nice job. The 187/189 is my favorite DMM. It's on my "desert island" list of essentials. With it, I would fix the radio and earn the undying gratitude of both Mary Ann and Ginger.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2016, 03:42:25 pm
content: Since I'm the one who ask for this thread, thanks for sharing your experiences and photos along the way. It is appreciated.Like modemhead, the 187/189 is very high on my favourite meter list. I wish that it had a bit better lcd contrast, continuous beep tone for continuity and a bit better battery life (although I use eneloops).