Game Controllers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Discotech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 11:24:27 am
content: My game controller has gone a bit funky at the USB connection with it getting to be too loose so it always drops connection, I figure instead of buying a new one, just remove the USB connector and solder the wires to see if that fixes the problemI can't find a specific schematic for my controller and the traces are not very intuitive as they don't seem to go anywhere from the USB portAm I right in assuming the USB +/GND & D+/D- is universal for all controllers as per this diagramI'm still at a novice level as I've been slacking with learning electronics so I figure it's better to ask and be sure so I get it right first time than screw something up

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 11:55:00 am
content: Is it micro USB? Did you try using different cable? Micro USB female connector not very likely to cause such issue, unless there is a problem with some solder joint. Also I don't advise directly soldering wires to micro USB pads. Not only it will be quite difficult to do, it will likely result in torn off pads when you pull the cable a little bit.

author: Discotech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 12:11:46 pm
content: Yep it's micro USB, tried other cables but it only worked with the cable that came with it that cable has caps built into so I'm wondering if that's why it only works with that specific cable as I've tried a few that I know all work so it's really my only option to get it working, plus it gives me some good solder practice

author: kjr18
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 12:39:16 pm
content: Maybe they are doing some stuff with id pin of that microusb cable? Like shorted to rail or something, or swapped data lines. So only their cable works?

author: Discotech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 02:48:10 pm
content: Quote from: kjr18 on March 07, 2019, 12:39:16 pmNo ideaHere's the PCB for it thoughI think Z1 & Z2 are the data points ?

author: kjr18
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 04:11:59 pm
content: I can see two test points: DP and DM. These probably are data pins for usb, data+ and data-. You could try probing them with original cable and see if they are switched. On your male usb plug you should have (with pads up) from right to left: VCC, DM, DP and GND. Easiest way to do this is to locate ground on your pcb, and probe male end of usb cable. Next one to this supposed to be DP, as they provided test points you can use them.

author: Discotech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 05:02:03 pm
content: Quote from: kjr18 on March 07, 2019, 04:11:59 pmDM goes to Z3, DP to Z4So I presume Z1 & Z2 are VCC & GND ?I tried another cable again just to be sure and it was giving me mixed results, one time it would work and another it wouldn't, then it would work again so I'm wondering if there's a different problem than just cable being loose

author: kjr18
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 05:56:36 pm
content: So you're saying that your other not original cable sometimes work, sometimes not? It might mean that you need to replace that usb socket. It might be damaged inside, so not every cable can connect nicely, as not every microusb plug is the same (they should be, but they are not, sadly). Try to look inside this socket and see if you can see something that looks not as supposed to be, or maybe some dust or lint stuffed inside, so plug can't go inside all the way in.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 05:59:51 pm
content: It looks like body of connector is damaged/bent outwards where split of it's body is located. There shouldn't be any gap, both sides must touch each other closely.

author: Discotech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 06:15:05 pm
content: Quote from: kjr18 on March 07, 2019, 05:56:36 pmYep sometimes it activates, sometimes it doesn't and it's seemingly random so either larger problem somewhere in the circuit or the USB connector is knackeredI've done some probing Z1 is VCC as I'm getting continuity to the + on the rumble pad connection and Z2 is GNDPlan is to remove the entire USB connector and just solder the wires in place, I've come with up a way to keep wires unstressed as well so there shouldn't be a worry for them disconnecting to stress, worth a try to fix it rather than having to spend another £20 to buy a new one isn't it ?

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 06:34:02 pm
content: why not replace the connector?i have to do it a lot on damned tablet computers.

author: Discotech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 07:03:05 pm
content: Quote from: stj on March 07, 2019, 06:34:02 pmI've already butchered the cable to prep it for connection