hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Avago optical encoder pinout/datasheet - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2014, 11:10:48 pm
content: Hello,I am doing a little project with the guts of a cheap inkjet and the head movement is controlled using an Avago optical encoder (the type with the plastic strip).Unfortunately, I didn't manage to find the matching part on Avago's website, so no clue about the pinout apart from the two pins at the top, which seem to be the LED.Does anyone have an idea which Avago part this is? The visible markings are 80058 and L925. There is an Avago logo on the other side too.

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2014, 02:58:24 am
content: You can find out what the pinout is :http://reprap.org/wiki/Optical_encoders_01

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2014, 09:11:54 am
content: Ah cool, I didn't find that website!Thanks a lot, I don't see an exact match but one or two look pretty close to the encoder I have.Jan
Aoyue 2702A teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: FrankenPC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2014, 04:45:25 am
content: I'm bored. Time to tear something apart. I've never cracked open a hot-air/desoldering station before.The victimPopped the rear offThe chip in the middle is a LM324NThe top slides right outSo, the front face plate is held in place by four screws hidden behind stickers. Removing the small plastic nameplate is location number one.Two more locations found behind the sharpie marksFourth is upper right under the Aoyue name in the upper left corner.Interesting note: I peeled off the entire left side sticker and all the button labels are painted on the aluminum underneath. Hmm. Also, you can see the blanks for unused switch locations.Faceplate is freeChip details number 1Chip details number 2Annnnd here it is, the ATMEGA16L MCUhttp://www.atmel.com/Images/doc2466.pdfNow for the air pump...End caps removed.It's a double diaphragm design.This is interesting... After I removed the bottom plate, the pump assembly is revealed. A floating armature solenoid design. The armature is supported by the dual rubber diaphragms.You can see the floating armature here.That's all!
PolyPrinter high speed 3D Printer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2014, 11:42:55 pm
content: I saw one of these running at Tanner Electronics on Saturday, it seemed pretty fast to some other 3D printer's I've seen.Apparently they are made in the Dallas area.http://www.polyprinter.comHere's a video from the company of it printing its own parts:
First post for funny mobile bodge - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sparkyresistor
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2014, 05:11:24 am
content: Hello all! My first post here. I have been watching Dave for a while on youtube, but only now have I had something that I could honestly say would add to anything here.So here's the story on a gem of a bodge job.My sister-in-law bought a Scoshe MTD3R FM transmitter (cheap crap from Walmart), and it worked for meh.. About a month, and then she said she moved the neck of it, and it completely stopped working.So I did a quick check for information on it since I am waiting for my first GOOD solder station to come in (been trudging with crap irons for the past two years and I am finally done with it.. My current iron, I don't even care to turn it on. It's not fit to even burn a house down). I didn't find anything right off hand for normal issues with it, so I decided to crack it open.Look at this and try not to laugh:Funny thing is now I have to wait till I get my (as of yet selected and ordered) soldering station in order to fix this junk. Oh well. It's my sis-in-laws so no rush! (not like I get paid for it or anything).Cheers!
Generic Chinese MP3 Player Teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nathanpc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 17, 2014, 02:24:37 pm
content: I've received this cheap chinese MP3 player and decided to do avery simple teardownof it. I was a bit amazed at the fact that they were not using a COB for the main processor, as they do with many of these ultra-cheap consumer electronics.Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

author: electr_peter
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 17, 2014, 11:00:54 pm
content: The unit seems to be half decent, double sided PCB with SMD compoents. I don't think you should be sad to not know info on main IC - they probabably use different manufacturer and model for each batch, depending on market price bottom that week.How can you describe sound quality? Is sound adequate? Does FM radio work as it should?Battery is soldered in - typical of cheap products. You cannot disconnect or quickly change battery without proper connector. By the wat, does battery have internal protection (I don't see that in pictures)?Metal dome switches, it is an abomination. You have to press them really hard to do anything. Once clicked, you keep similar pressure to keep button pressed and then they pop back up! So you need to press even harder(!) after initial click just to keep contact. It is probably the worst button design you can think of. I would rather get slightly springy metal stips that metal domes.

author: nathanpc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 17, 2014, 11:25:20 pm
content: The sound quality is okish if you ignore the fact that it has a pretty weird noise in the background, which is probably internal noise, since it starts as soon as you turn it on. I've just tested the FM radio and it doesn't seem to be able to tune to any station.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2014, 12:07:03 pm
content: I can't read the part# of the MCU clearly, is it 3068?I think this might be it, or something very similar guessing by the model number:http://mm-mpxteam.net/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=4896The firmware link there is dead but you can find it in web.archive.orgIt appears to be a Sunplus/Generalplus 306X, probably 8051-based MCU.What USB VID:PID does it have?Too bad you missed out on theS1mp3era. Idid some RE on thoseandthere's a ton of info on them here.

author: nathanpc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2014, 12:52:57 pm
content: Yeah, I looked for S1s first, but they are a bit rare today (at least here in Brazil).The USB information:Code:Bus 003 Device 008: ID 0402:2560 ALi Corp.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2014, 12:00:22 pm
content: That means it's likely not Sunplus, but ALi. Even rarer. The only MP3 SoCs I remember them making were the M566x series, and not so much info on those either.
Kiwis: Warehouse has their 12 drawer storage boxes on sale for $10 again. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2014, 04:49:19 am
content: Heads up to my fellow kiwis, The Warehouse has their yellow 12 drawer storage units on sale again until the 20th, $10/each. These are great units, I have quite a few of them now, they are quite solid and the drawers do not open too easily like other similar ones I've seen (eg the larger ones at Bunnings), which living in Christchurch is quite important :-)Just grabbed another 4 for myself, I think I have 14 of these now :-/Anyway, usually $19.95, currently $10, last time they were on sale was about 12 months ago I think, and they were snapped up from the retail shelves quite quickly.If you look at as many youtube videos as I do, you will see pretty much this same cabinet on a lot of electronic benches around the world ;-)http://www.thewarehouse.co.nz/red/catalog/product/Yellow-Storage-Box-with-12-Drawers?SKU=1510323
Scilogex/Dragonlab MS-H280 Hotplate, garbled display fix. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Nerull
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2014, 02:07:50 am
content: A while back I purchased this hotplate and discovered that after about an hour of high-wattage use the display would begin reading out jibberish. It always started off slowly - a stray segment lighting up here and there - and got progressively worse until the display was useless. I sent it back to Scilogex for repair, and it was returned with the declaration that there was nothing wrong.I suspected the problem was heat related - there is very little in the way of ventilation for the PCB, which is sandwiched between the ceramic heat block and the bottom plate used to heatsink several TO-220 packages. I tried reflowing every joint on the board, to no avail.Finally, I settled on a set of optocouplers as the likely culprit. The main PCB contains a PIC as the main processor, which communicates via the optocouplers and a ribbon cable to a 7-segment LED driver on the display board. My suspicion was - and still is - that as the optocouplers heated up, their performance worsened until eventually the display stopped functioning at all. I was skeptical that it could be getting that hot, and a thermocouple stuck inside the case didn't show temperatures that were alarmingly high, but the behavior certainly seemed to be temperature related.I considered cutting a hole in the case and installing a small fan, but decided to try replacing the optocouplers first. I designed a set of PCBs to turn an ADuM1401 into a drop-in replacement. They finally arrived, I assembled everything and have been testing the hotplate for several hours now with no display issues. I'm pretty happy that it worked on the first try. The PCBs are dead simple but they are the first ones I've designed from scratch, and the first time I've used this coupler IC.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2014, 11:01:22 pm
content: Nice replacement.Did you check how much current they were passing through the opto LEDs, compared to the load?Checking random opto (MOC207), output drops ~20% at 100C. But there is no mention of aging characteristics at all.
Question about my viewsonic va930  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jacobsan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 13, 2014, 07:37:12 pm
content: I had a weird thing start happening with my external monitor that i use with my computer. whenever i use it when i want to go on the internet (and so far just for that) it makes a buzzing tone and then the screen goes black it doesn't shut off it just goes black. the cables are all fine and connected right as far as i know and the power strip seems fine. all though it gets hot from time to time but that doesn't seem to be the reason that the monitor is acting this way. and i thought maybe some one could shine some light on what is up.

author: TVman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2014, 03:59:03 am
content: This happens because the starter for the back-light is gliching.The monitor I use does the exact same thing.Mine does this every few days but sometimes the monitor turns off every 10 to 60 minutes.The(temporary)FIX is to tap the side of the monitor then it should come back on.Hope this helped!Hunor
Hot air station: Toolcraft AT850D vs. Xytronic LF-852D - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: equilibrium
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 11, 2014, 09:50:16 am
content: Hello All,I'll buy a low-end hot air rework station soon, and I'm curious as to what you think I should buy. I did some research and got two candidates: Toolcraft AT850D and Xytronic LF-852D.I've read pretty negative things about Xytronic (at least the soldering stations) here on the forum, despite it being 50% more expensive than the Toolcraft one. Would this mean that the AT850D is absolute garbage? Can anyone who used any rework product from either brand share their experiences?Would you recommend any other brand, especially ones that specialize in rework gear? Rework stations from major brands like Weller and Ersa are way off my budget, and I'm not particularly familiar with rework stations either to know any other brands. In herehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/hot-air-station/andhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/hot-air-stations-aoyue-vs-blackjack-all-in-one-vs-separate-units/I can see that Aoyue is an option, especially given that it's VERY affordable. BlackJack and Hakko are difficult to get in Europe let alone having a distributor in Switzerland where I live, and I'm not going to bother getting a 110V-230V converter just to use a Sparkfun.Or, as a third option, would you recommend standalone hot air guns? What is your opinion on them?Thanks!

author: electronics man
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2014, 05:58:45 pm
content: Quote from: equilibrium on May 11, 2014, 09:50:16 amWhat do you mean, they are very good quality, I'm really impressed by my soldering station. Trust me they are good, ok the caps are cheep but everything else is good

author: equilibrium
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 11, 2014, 06:03:45 pm
content: Despite not having used one before, I'm growing quite fond of the Aoyue models since they are very low cost and I'm really not going to use it extensively everyday for rework. What do you think (Xytronic is still quite expensive for me)?

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2014, 06:17:27 pm
content: I got a Xytronic LF-852D and had no issues so far. My one included some tools, several nozzles and a spare heating element. Considering the extras it was less expensive than similar hot air stations plus extra nozzles and spare heater.

author: equilibrium
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 11, 2014, 06:25:15 pm
content: Quote from: madires on May 11, 2014, 06:17:27 pmYes, I must say that the tools it includes are very tempting; 5 tweezers, side cutters, spare heating element and 4 nozzles (including square nozzles for QFPs) are quite a pack.
Inside a laboratory hotplate with magnetic stirrer, troubleshooting/teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 20, 2014, 06:24:12 pm
content: I put my chemistry hobby on hold for about 6 months ago, but I found myself needing my hotplate today to prepare some hydrogen peroxide. The problem was, the stirrer was no longer working. That is to say, it will not start spinning when I turn it on, and it will not spin as I adjust the 44k pot. So I decided to open it and take a look, for those who are interested the pictures are in the attachments. The unit was made in West Germany in 1985.I would love to get it fixed, but I need help from the people here. I've probed around a bit with the unit powered on, I also verified that the motor itself is functioning fine, so is the switch and the pot. With the pot set at full speed and the magnetic stirrer powered on, I only get 2.3 VAC at the input, a value that doesn't change as I adjust the pot. The hotplate part of the device works fine. Should I pull the PCB out and take some pictures?

author: Fank1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2014, 01:14:32 am
content: How did you test the motor ??

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 21, 2014, 07:36:17 am
content: I connected it directly to 230VAC mains, and it spun like a charm.

author: Fank1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2014, 08:10:22 pm
content: The green board is obviously the speed control.No doubt triac.And I can't get a good enough look at it to even tell you where to start.Is there any chance that the blue thing is a relay?If so the contacts in it may have corroded over time with no usage.

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 21, 2014, 10:16:31 pm
content: Quote from: Fank1 on May 21, 2014, 08:10:22 pmThe blue box on the green PCB is nothing but a 1 µF capacitor, which reads spot on. I'll get some pictures of it up tomorrow.
Alpin 12V car mini compressor teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2013, 02:35:07 pm
content: Now this compressor is assembled again and it works fine. It's a cheap chinese product bought inBauhausshop in 2012.Photos:https://plus.google.com/photos/106264218831814439783/albums/5814895676942736977In action

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2014, 09:12:32 pm
content: Sorry for answering late.QuoteAccording to the manual it consumes 12 Amps at 12 Volts. I did not measure it, but I believe this figure. Please see this:https://plus.google.com/photos/106264218831814439783/albums/5814895676942736977/5814896464339355346?pid=5814896464339355346&oid=106264218831814439783QuoteI did not dismantle the valves, but I do not think it is possible.QuoteIt cost less than 1000 CZK at Bauhaus hobbymarket.
Projected Capacitive Touch as Replacement for resistive Touch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DasBasti
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 12, 2014, 08:46:59 am
content: HiMy Name is Basti from Germany and I am a student in EE. I am in the beginning of my bachelors thesis and my task is to replace a resisitve touch foil in front of a TFT display with a capacitive touch panel.So I was looking for companies providing touch panels with different controllers. I found suppliers with AtmelmaXTouchandEETIcontrollers. But there are alsoCypressandMaximbuilding interesting controllers.Do you guys know any supplier for touch panels with those controllers? They should be compatible to be mounted infornt of a 7" display.

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2014, 04:07:03 am
content: Noritake were giving out samples
Help with Skytronic 0-20V 2A bench PSU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: simonmc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2014, 08:08:50 am
content: Hi guys,The primary winding in the transformer in my skytronic psu has gone open circuit. There was a sticker on it which gave the details of it but that seems to have come off and dissapeared into the same place all the odd socks got to. It looks like the secondary is a centre tapped 24v winding with a second winding coming off it. This second winding i have no idea of the voltage. The regulator board is LM723 based. Does anybody have the same PSU and be willing to open it up to give me details of the transformer so i can get a replacement, or know of a circuit diagram anywhere?I managed to get a generic picture of the supply in case someone has a similar re-badged one.

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2014, 10:03:04 am
content: http://www.kjell.com/.mvc/Document/File?id=c1d656f6-e5b4-423a-916e-a22c01751962Last page.

author: simonmc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2014, 12:11:06 pm
content: Thanks for that. Thats just what was needed. It seems the 2A 130 degree thermal fuse tucked into the primary windings insulation tape had blown. Seems i did not heed the warning in the manual about leaving it switched on..... Whist its apart i think i will fit a small fan to cool the internals a bit and not use this particular supply for extended periods. At least a thermal fuse was fitted..
cheapest pace 6993-0212 tip kit? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: AmmoJammo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 09:49:42 pm
content: I've been trying to find these for the cheapest price, including postage to Australia...Its strange, as I found them on the Australian Element 14 site:http://au.element14.com/pace/6993-0212/tip-kit-desoldering-endura-8pc/dp/3701580?Ntt=6993-0212$248But then, on the Element 14 UK site:http://uk.farnell.com/pace/6993-0212/tip-kit-desoldering-endura-8pc/dp/3701580?Ntt=6993-0212$120 (£65.48)Anyway! I did find them for about $US80, but the store wanted $100 minimum order for international ordersSo, does anyone have a supplier for cheap Pace spare parts?Thanks!
Do they still make notebook's with real keyboard? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2014, 12:22:17 pm
content: Hi Everyone,Do they still make notebook's with real keyboard?I just can't get used to the buttons all separated from each other...Thanks,Alan

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2014, 01:12:25 pm
content: FYI, the 'non real' keyboard is called island keyboard.Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2014, 01:14:18 pm
content: There are many different kinds of keyboards. What do YOU mean by "real"?Is it the keys themselves that you have a problem with, or is it the SCALE of the keyboard?Many notebook style keyboards are something less than "full-size".And many of us have chronic problem with using an 85% notebook keyboard and then switching back to 100% in the office.

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2014, 02:51:15 pm
content: I guess I like the ones where the keys all meet each other and do not have the space between them.

author: jpb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2014, 03:30:08 pm
content: I like those kind of keyboards as well, I have an old ThinkPad with one. Unfortunately the new ThinkPads have switched to separated keys much to the annoyance of some users.I don't know of any laptops that don't have the separated type keys.The Thinks Pad keyboards are still good though, just not the same as the original.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2014, 04:32:31 pm
content: I guess what you mean is non chiclet? I think Dell Latitudes still have class keys.

author: true
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2014, 04:46:02 pm
content: I find the layout to be far more of an issue than chiclet keys. It seems having a usable keyboard layout is something _none_ of the manufacturers believe in having anymore. And hell, even high-end Thinkpads are eliminating touchpad/g-spot mouse buttons, I guess we don't need those either...I know I'm not the only one who doesn't understand the unnecessarily minimization of modern UX... they hit the software-side first, and now the hardware-side is getting it... eventually we won't have a keyboard or mouse, or even a screen; everything will be by gesture to a nondescript box, and we will imagine the computational results as flat single colors...

author: theatrus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2014, 02:58:39 am
content: I'm also surprised that we haven't seen any of the Cherry MX models with a Bluetooth LE radio.The new Thinkpad Ts are ok, as are the rMBPs. Most other laptop keyboards are aggravating in my opinion, especially when they get to creative layouts. I want my keys where they should be, and then remap CapsLock to Control.
Teardown: Rigol DM3058 (Multimeter) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2011, 01:47:35 am
content: Here are some photos of the insides of a Rigol DM3058 bench top multimeter:Notice those JTAG headers for the various Altera Max II CPLD's; those could come in handy some day. If anyone has photos of the DM3068 or any other Rigol DMM model, I would love to compare the two... if they're identical as the DS1052E and DS1102E are, then perhaps it can be converted to the higher end version by simply changing the serial number.I was surprised to see that the numerous LM78XX voltage regulators were all mounted to beefy heat sinks ; is that normal? I've never noticed any problems with heat dissipation in them.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 11, 2011, 10:36:23 am
content: Thanks for the pics. Too bad resolution is too low to read markings. You can clearly see the separation between the grounded and floating part of the circuit. I don't see anything that looks like a heated zener reference, like the standard LM399 you expect to find, at least in 6.5 digit models. Dissipation of linear regulators depends on voltage drop over the regulator and current. Since this meter uses only linear supplies to reduce noise in the circuit, it probably draws a fair amount of power for a TO-220.My guess is that the DM3068 uses at least a different voltage reference (maybe selected, like all the big boys do), and maybe different ADC circuit. I wouldn't count on a DS1052E-style hack. Also the community of Rigol bench meter owners is a lot smaller. Plus calibration is much more critical.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2011, 02:07:31 pm
content: Thanks! I wish the photos were larger so the labels can be read. But at minimum its clear the PCB have big Rigol labels on them so I presume its designed by them and the have some control on quality.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2011, 04:51:36 pm
content: Here's a higher resolution version of one of the photos. The resistor divider is a Caddock 1776.

author: ted572
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2014, 08:08:08 pm
content: DM3058 Digital Multimeter Service Guidehttp://gotroot.ca/rigol/service%20manuals/DM3058_ServiceGuide_EN.pdf
Nostatlgische DIY radio - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: PA3BNX
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2014, 02:21:34 pm
content: Hello EveryBodyHere a simple old TV tube MW radiowith Tv tubes pcf80 and pcl805It plays quite good.It works on just one24 ac voltage24 ac for both tube filiaments and 31 volt plate tension.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2014, 02:24:42 pm
content: Nice radio, would not work here due to both the dearth of local powerful MW transmitters and the high QRM I have.

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2014, 04:53:06 pm
content: Very nice!

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2014, 05:11:41 pm
content: Very nice. Silicon bridge? Isn't it cheating?

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2014, 05:15:40 pm
content: Beautiful job! Congratulations!
Excellent Hack: Misto Olive Oil Sprayer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2014, 02:52:57 am
content: Granted, this is not really a hack, just more of purposing a product for another use. It's a hand pumped aerosol olive oil sprayer I bought on amazon. and it works great for dispensing IPA. I figure flux can be dispensed as well, but nothing too harsh as that will probably eat away the O-ring.http://www.amazon.com/Misto-Brushed-Aluminum-Olive-Sprayer/dp/B00004SPZV/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Agilent E3631A  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Brattis
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 07:30:13 am
content: Hi,I got this powersupply with a strange behavior and wonder if any other here have experienced the same thing?When poweroutput is turned Off i can still measure 290mV DC on 6V output same for +- 25V but here i measure approx. 340mV DC.Is this a matter of recalibration?Instrument is working ok and no errors are reported in selftest.Thanks for a great forum,Regards,Br.....

author: Sbampato12
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 11:37:11 am
content: On my E3640a and E3649A there is a small voltage when the power is turned on and the output is turned off. This voltage is the same if I turn on the output and set the voltage to 00.00V on the display. But 290mV seems a pretty high for this supply.How about the voltages relations with display. Try set your supply to some voltages, and measure the output and post yours results. Measure 1V, 2V to 6V and show the results.If it is possible, put a picture of your set up.What multimeter are you using for this?

author: Brattis
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 05:19:39 pm
content: Hi Again,Thanks for Your reply.I have tried 2 different types of multimeters both with same results.Output is actually -300mV when Output is offWhen switched On it shows correct values.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 06:14:27 pm
content: for firmware versions below 1.6 this is normal behavior. agilent has published a technote about that.firmware 1.6 brought with it a board revision that solves this problem.1.6 cannot run on older versions of the hardware.

author: Brattis
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 07:12:39 pm
content: Ok, mine is ver.1.4 so this explains this behavior.Thank You all.

author: Brattis
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 04:50:18 pm
content: Quote from: free_electron on April 23, 2014, 06:14:27 pmIt says on Agilent that ver.1.4 and above can be upgraded to v.1.6 without any Harware changesbut ver 1.2, 1.3 must also have an additional hardware upgrade.Can this upgrade be done just by reprogramming?
EM-434 2Y 020 stepper specs? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tx8
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 05:54:28 pm
content: Ripped this from an Epson printer in the scrapyard today:Only info i can find is "two phase four wires". Can somebody provide some specs?I also foud this today:... always worth it to have a little stop by the scrapyard

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2014, 11:11:09 am
content: Measure it's dimensions and compare it to steppers with similar size. There will be a "NEMA" category/number for the screw-hole spacings on the front.EDIT: +1 for free side-cuttersThey're not even nicked.
Aoyue Int9378 - Teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tx8
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2014, 11:10:06 pm
content: Its the ugliest solder station on the market gets a facelift...There is:Atmega8a with an ICSP headerOpampTransistora 4 digit / 8segment displaylots of triac diode stuff...and thats mainly it as far as i can see.The atmega is the only smt device and the complete thing is hand soldered with lots of additional flux without cleaning obviously.The massive Power supply has a hand written rating of 220v 75W - 26v. There is no other note about power consumption either on the machine nor in the manual. One cable inside was stuck between the chassis due to lack of cable binding. I had to free it and it looks almost broken. Contacted tech support for a replacement. Will have to wait.The spool holder was supposed to be attached to the iron holder and could not stand alone because it had only one large rubber foot on one side (fail).But its pretty handy to have everything seperate i think so i added some.The iron itself uses a 8pin conector and is working with 24v DC.I shut up now...Enjoi

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 09:32:00 pm
content: What do you think about that soldering station as a semi-professional "first" station? How is it different from the Aoyue 908?

author: tx8
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 10:11:41 pm
content: It may look different in my video but the Int9378 is only a solder station. The 908 seems to be a rework station with a hot air unit included.until now i am pleased with the performance but the cable could be even softer though its not too bad.If you look at the aoyue product line the newest models have a different tip/heater assembly like the 2930 compared to the older 9378...http://www.aoyue.com/en/ArticleShow.asp?ArticleID=455http://www.aoyue.com/en/ArticleShow.asp?ArticleID=454I wanted the old tip design because they are super cheap everywhere.Anyway if you can afford to stick to hakko, pace, ersa or weller

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2014, 12:34:02 pm
content: Quote from: tx8 on March 29, 2014, 10:11:41 pmIn other words, Hakko-compatible?

author: tx8
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2014, 11:11:10 pm
content: Yes, Hakko 900m series compatible.Are the new aoyue tips compatible with other brands, thats what i want to know.Google pictures suggests they are at least not compatible with the hakko ones.

author: tx8
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2014, 11:18:05 pm
content: Aftermarket tips fit as bad as the original tips so i had to take same action. Furthermore had to sand down the metal sleeve you see in the video about 1mm to get best thermal conductivity because these aftermarket tips seem to be a little longer. After all they work pretty good.http://youtu.be/5E4hHuAmLe4
Impact driver bits in non-impact drill - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Legion
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2014, 03:32:37 pm
content: I recently picked up a DeWalt DCD985M2 for general use in my projects. It's a hammer/driver drill. I've never bought tools before so I need to get a good selection of bits for it. However most of the large bit sets I find in stores are labeled as impact driver bits. Can I use impact bits in a non-impact drill or will I run into problems?

author: Biff383
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2014, 03:38:12 pm
content: If the bit fits the screw you are good to go if they are even close to quality.

author: suicidaleggroll
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2014, 04:36:56 pm
content: You can use impact bits in a non-impact application, the problem is when you try to do the reverse.

author: Legion
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2014, 06:01:58 pm
content: Thanks!
X-ray fluorescence spectrometer teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2014, 10:02:03 am
content: Video of a more modern, but very similar version :

author: han
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2014, 10:16:47 am
content: Awesome

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2014, 11:47:45 am
content: Very nice Mike. A use for that detector is to connect it to an ADC and use it to count the background radiation in the shop, and bin the values so you can get an idea of what particles are in the area. Yoy probably will be able to discriminate against the assorted energies quite well and divide into cosmic rays, local alpha particles and possibly even find neutrino decay in there as well.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2014, 02:10:04 pm
content: Some bits from it on ebay :ttp://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/xy-steppertable-proportional-counter-tube-from-x-ray-fluorescence-spectrometer/

author: LapTop006
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 20, 2014, 04:16:06 pm
content: That X-Y table would be a lovely base for a 3D printer (or mini-router as you suggested), shame the cost to "pick up" would require several thousand pounds in flights.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2014, 11:46:59 am
content: Interesting. The datasheet for the tube says "filled with dielectric oil", not "silicone jelly".Careful with running that x-ray tube unshielded...
TB6600 Stepper Motor Driver Board from eBay - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2014, 12:18:20 pm
content: Just a kind of review I guess.Thought you guys might want to know about this driver board. It's not terrible quality, works quite well and isn't too expensive.My experience is limited with these driver boards so if anyone could tell me what they think of this driver board compared to what they have seen.Don't worry, I know it isn't revolutionary or anything.

author: nostromoavs
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 18, 2014, 07:51:27 am
content: hi,i saw your video on youtube and i'm interested in your driver code coz i have the same set up but it seems that i have low knowledge of arduino programming!i cant work it out to run my motor smooth like you do .so, please can you help me and maybe send me trough e-mail your .ino files for driver and motor ?thx

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2014, 04:13:16 am
content: Thanks for the video.I googled that controller, and found the original non-ebay source:http://www.hotmcu.com/tb6600-1-axis-stepper-motor-2phase-driver-board-for-cnc-router-p-56.html?cPath=7_30TB6600 1 axis Stepper Motor 2-phase Driver Board for CNC RouterUS $16.00China prices, always amazing. Another thing now on my 'to buy' list.Kind of a pity the drive current isn't software programmable, so it could be beefed up during acceleration and high torque, then dropped back to a low level for position holding.You didn't get any schematic with it?
Another Helping Hand  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: notsob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2014, 05:35:17 am
content: Saw this little gadget on hobbyking, quite a cheap little unit to add to your collectionhttp://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25167__Mr_Grippy_Soldering_Jig.html

author: sprocket
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2014, 10:09:36 pm
content: You can make one these for about a dollar and fifty cents. Some dirt cheap USB LED lights from ebay, a aligator clip and what ever base you can find for it..
Phone/Watch thing. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2014, 03:10:51 am
content: I can across this the other day. What do you people think of it?I think it sounds like an expensive toy.http://www.dotedi.com/Regards

author: suicidaleggroll
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2014, 03:52:56 am
content: Looks like a scam to me.The website is laughably bad, the English is horrible (practically Engrish), the specs are self-contradictory, extremely few pictures (and many of the few that are there appear to be fake), incredibly few details, etc.If it is real and actually does what they claim it does, for the price they're selling it for, then it seems like a good deal. But I don't believe it.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2014, 03:59:52 am
content: Fairly common on ebay not expensive.http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=gsm+watch+android&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2014, 12:48:27 pm
content: Great choice of name... but as pointed out above, the Chinese have had watch-phones for years.http://www.dr-lex.be/hardware/nova_n800_review.htmlhttp://www.dr-lex.be/hardware/china_s9110_review.htmlhttp://www.dr-lex.be/hardware/china_mq668_review.html

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2014, 01:38:15 pm
content: Quote from: pickle9000 on April 16, 2014, 03:59:52 amI think it is a Chinese watch phone dressed up.
analogue switches - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2014, 05:33:43 pm
content: Hello, I am looking for an analogue switch in an IC so that I avoid having to run signal on long wires to a panel mounted mechanical switch. The signal will be analogue at about 200KHz and the amplitude will be about 10-12V peak. I have already used a Solid State Relay LH1510AT quite successfully except it is SPST and pricey. I was looking for more options like 2 pole 4 position as an example, all packed in a small IC. Many thanks

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2014, 06:14:04 pm
content: Quote from: akis on April 11, 2014, 05:33:43 pmMaxim and others make a wide range of analog switch ICs. In the<80V rangethey have a range of configurations that at most you can get is dual pole (1, 2, 3 or 4 switches in one IC).

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2014, 08:42:11 am
content: I have looked and discovered a range of switches which seem to be an industry standard, eg DG201, DG451 and so on, they are still quite expensive and they are single pole single throw mostly, whereas I was looking for one pole four position or six position type of thing. The lower the Ron the more expensive they are in general, although it appears Vishay is much cheaper than AD.So I designed a silly diagram of a mosfet switch using N-channels. It has great drawbacks, it needs a Vdd much higher than the highest peak of the analogue signal expected. And if I use P-channels, again, I would need a Vee much lower than the lowest peak of the analogue signal.

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2014, 09:36:21 pm
content: ADG1406/1407/1408/etc. Beware they only come in SMD packages, and a handful of other gotcha's...

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2014, 08:55:15 am
content: Thanks. I went and ordered the DG412. It has a pin labelled VL. I have no idea what it is. Could someone please tell me?

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2014, 09:09:43 am
content: Quote from: akis on April 17, 2014, 08:55:15 amFromhttp://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DG411-DG413.pdfPage 6Quote

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2014, 10:19:32 pm
content: Ahh so much better a datasheet than Vishay's. It also talks about correct sequencing of the power supplies, another factor I had not considered.
Need info on a Bliley NV92A721 - 10Mhz OCXO - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2014, 05:44:56 pm
content: It has been pulled from an Austron unit.The OCXO has the following printed on it (see pict):BlileyNV92A72110Mhz12512169SN 0069703Any info would be appreciated , but the Pinout (and supply+efc specs) of the "round ocxo" plug is the most important part.TIA/Bingo

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2014, 06:00:15 pm
content: Google is not turning up anything, so I would suggest emailling Bliley.http://www.bliley.com/index_063.htm

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2014, 06:44:16 am
content: Since you've got the board it was connected to, you should be able to reverse engineer the connections without too much trouble.Serial number 006?? Obviously a big seller. Maybe that's why it never made it to the Bliley web site. The closest I could find is NV93. I know that 'N' means it's an OCXO and 'V' means it has EFC. I don't know if the numbers have any special significance.I can't believe that Austron would use a chassis mount 9 pin tube socket and just stick wires on it like that. Seems bizarre!Ed

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2014, 02:43:14 pm
content: Quote from: edpalmer42 on April 11, 2014, 06:44:16 am@EdI might end up doing that , trace the lines.But i'd have to trace the power lines first , as the unit was defect upon receipt.And the backplane/psu doesn't work./Bingo

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2014, 07:59:39 am
content: Seems like i'll have to trace it.The mails to info@.... are undeliverable/Bingo
Andonstar USB Microscope Drivers  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Instro_Spark
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 08:38:56 am
content: Hey dudes got my andonstar USB microscope the other day but lost the CD that came with it.Has any one got drivers and software for this scope ive tried 3 different pcs and cant get it to work with any of them

author: ttp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 11:49:05 am
content: Quote from: Instro_Spark on April 12, 2014, 08:38:56 amI got the CD and can make ISO image but can't upload it until Monday when I get back to wired internet...

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 12:32:50 pm
content: Microsoft camera, can you not just download the software from the MS website?I took the CD that came with my USB microscope and used it as a coaster for a week, then dropped it in the bin.

author: ttp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 12:39:59 pm
content: Quote from: ttp on April 12, 2014, 11:49:05 amI had a closer look and there is no device drivers on CD... Its included in your OS I guess.

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 09:27:53 pm
content: I plugged it in and it worked. No problems at all. I never needed the cd. Maybe you have the cd but forgot it's a mini-cd. I hadn't seen one of those in a long time. Not sure why they even bother anymore, it's extra expense.
what kind of flyback setup is this ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: stealthop
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 04:09:21 am
content: hi , i got a huge rear projection television . im trying to downsize my stuff due to an upcoming move , and this tv weighs about 500 lb . now i know it has a big Fresnel lens in front that i could put towards some devious purposeso i decided i would have a look at the rest of the goodies in the case to asses the tear down and see what else i can salvage off the boards . when i spotted something i have never encountered before . a 'triple flyback' transformer ?now if you know anything about this or where i can find more information on it please let me know . here's another look , it's blurry but you get the point ...

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 04:22:38 am
content: Rear projection TV = 3 guns, one for each color, therefore one flyback for each gun.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 03:28:10 pm
content: One flyback, transformer, but the big block with the 4 HT leads is a simple splitter, which simply connects the one 30-35kV input to 3 leads for each CRT. It will have a bleed resistor and likely 3 high voltage pots inside to provide the focus and A1 supplies for each CRT. You will find a ground lead, or a lead leading to the 3 focus controls, or integrated into the case 3 or 6 adjustment knobs to allow focussing on each CRT.

author: Richard Head
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2014, 08:53:37 am
content: Looks like a car distributor!
WEP 858D - questions about construction, MCU, experiences - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2014, 08:20:12 pm
content: Looking for anyone that's got a WEP 858D. I am wondering what the build is like, what's inside, what microcontroller is used and any other info about your experience using this device.I wish open source hardware was closer to reality because I would pay twice as much or more for a device like this that was a shared, collaborative design but it ain't, yet.

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2014, 09:46:40 pm
content: You might think what's the big deal, just buy any one it's only $50-60. I have my doubts about the longevity of these shiploads of junk. I see a lot of heating elements for sale and I doubt people are buying them up just in case.I'm now looking at some steinel heat guns that are under $100 for a variable temp model. Different form factor but at least the seller isn't some chinese seller hiding behind 6,000 miles and a language barrier.Note: Changed steiner to steinel

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2014, 11:30:05 pm
content: Quote from: GiskardReventlov on April 10, 2014, 08:20:12 pmI got one, really liked to form factor, easy of use and quite operation. I used it to reflow a few small boards with good results. Than I made the mistake an opened it, didn't like at all the ground path within the unit. Ended up returning it and got a used, large, ugly and noisy and noisy analog Hakko 850 that wouldn't kill me.

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2014, 03:40:25 am
content: I am going to go with a steinel for under $100. Looks well made, the company actually exists and has been in business for more than 50 years. Plus I can use it for more than electronics stuff. I can use it to take off paint and other tasks made easier with some heat. I picked up an electricians metal drawer set that needs a paint job but that's not worth getting powder coated and this heat gun should make getting the paint off much easier. I much prefer to own multi-purpose tools than lots of single-purpose tools. Maybe I'll post some pictures of this when it comes.If you don't like the gun form factor they have the tube type like these WEPs. I looked at the HG 2000 < $200 but I'm going the cheap route on this model. I think it's the steinel 803.