hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Equipment inputs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Crambone
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2022, 02:20:46 pm
content: If I’m connecting a 50ohm input into a piece of equipment sch as a frequency counter, scope….. and it says, “INPUT 1M ohm” do I need to use something between my input cable and the equipment input?

author: w2aew
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2022, 02:49:08 pm
content: It really depends on a couple of things such as:- What frequency are you operating at?- How long is the 50 ohm line between the source and the measuring equipment?- How will your equipment react to an unterminated line (i.e. will the reflection from your 1M input adversely affect your source?)- etc..If your source *needs* to have a good 50 ohm termination, then you can add a 50-ohm-thru terminator between your coax and the equipment input to properly terminate the line.So, to properly answer your question, you will need to be a bit more specific about the signal source, the frequencies involved, and what you want to measure...

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2022, 02:55:21 pm
content: You presumably mean that you are connecting a 50 ohmoutput(from some type of generator) to the high-impedance input of a counter or scope.Some general comments:1. Connecting a low-impedance source to a high-impedance load is normally done with voltage sources, giving the maximum voltage at the load.2. If the source impedance matches the coax cable characteristic impedance, and the load is also that value (e.g., 50 ohms), the voltage will be half of that in the high-Z load case, but there will be no reflections to disturb the signal (ideal case).3. With a 50 ohm source and 50 ohm cable into a high-impedance load, there will be a total reflection at the load (which results in full voltage at the load), but the reflection should be absorbed in the source impedance and cause no further disturbance (again, ideal case). This "source-terminated" connection is common.These conditions are discussed in elementary textbooks, which give useful details. One of many Google results from "source termination":https://practicalee.com/termination/
Equipment Shielding - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Rigolon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2019, 02:05:53 pm
content: Hey guys,A friend of mine has a product that the case is steel (which on of the objectives is to shield the circuit) and it goes on top of a wooden structure. He is going through a homologation process and there is a test where they touch the body (steel case) with 4kV (Guess to test the protection against ESD). He asked me if grounding the case he wouldn't have a problem.In my opinion, as long it's a good grounding it won't be a problem. But where it should be grounded? In the mains earth or the ground of the circuit is fine?I do believe that the correct one should be the mains earth, but where we live, most houses and buildings don't have a good grounding system or, even, don't have one at all.So is there any problem using the circuit ground?PS: The circuit works fine, it's just that for him to sell it to this client it has to go through this testings.

author: noname4me
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2019, 09:08:03 pm
content: My experience is that it is passed to the main earth conductor (chassis ground) with the lowest impedance possibleThe idea I think is that it is passed to ground without affecting the ground of the circuit where it can cause stuff like random button press event (for e.g.) or other artefacts.There should be some inductance between the circuit ground and the chassis ground so that the ESD event does not enter the circuit.I'm not an expert so please take this advice with a sackful of salt.Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2019, 05:16:10 am
content: GND can very well be isolated. It's just a reference point and not necessarily connected to earth.Also, at least in USA, earth gnd does not have to be as big as the rest of the wires, so it's not a good idea to send current through it on purpose. It's job is to trip the breaker.

author: magic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2019, 06:15:35 am
content: If the circuit is sensitive to electrostatic field (high impedance nodes, low noise, that kind of things) then it may be necessary to keep the chassis at the same potential as circuit GND.For example, if circuit GND is connected to some ungrounded external cable/device picking up 50Hz mains noise and the chassis is earthed, 50Hz noise may appear in the circuit.
Equipment Sources - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Michaelo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 30, 2015, 02:19:21 pm
content: Has anyone else ever purchased equipment form a company called Radwell?I got a DS1052E for small money, it works perfectly and appeared to be absolutely brand-new, but as I've never heard of them before, I could do with some feedback...It might have been a one off (as they only had one for sale at that price) but if not, I would be tempted to check regularly... so, if anyone can give me a heads up...Mike

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 30, 2015, 03:20:58 pm
content: If you fill in your country it will give us a clue. I'm in the UK and never heard of them. Often it's more about the support you get when there is a problem than the unit working out of the box.
Equivalent 48V/1Kw or higher charger - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2021, 11:41:06 am
content: Looking to design a 48V/1KW or higher charger with switch(toggle) for lead acid or Li-Ion battery selection type.Found one reference design from Infineon:https://www.infineon.com/cms/media/PMM_3dmodels/battery-charger-demoboard.htmlinfineon code availability is an issue. Any other company which has reference design for charger with selection option for both lead and Li-Ion battery?
Equivalent Capacitance in this Circuit and What type of Filter Circuit is this? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Veramacor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2015, 01:36:14 am
content: Hello,Attached I have a 40 meter band pass filter for ham radio - its placed right after the antenna.1) Does anyone recognize this filter?2) Can C8 and C13 be combined into one equivalent Capacitor?I know Capacitors in parallel are Cs = C1 + C2Capacitors in series are 1/Cs = 1/C1 + 1/C2C8 and C13 are configured much like a Voltage Divider. I'm just not sure if combining these two caps is valid?Thank you all!Circuit Author's Note:"As you can see on the schematic above it is made of two resonant circuits: first one being C13, C8, L2 and the second one L3 C12. First one is also an impedance transformer that rises the impedance from antenna’s 50 ohm to about 7k. This is done to achieve better frequency response (narrower filter) by the second resonant circuit."My ps question is how does C13 C8 and L2 act like an impedance transformer? By the way this circuit avoids using toroids - this is why I'm chosing to work with this particular design.

author: ludzinc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 27, 2015, 01:55:35 am
content: Quote from: Veramacor on July 27, 2015, 01:36:14 amNope.Quote from: Veramacor on July 27, 2015, 01:36:14 amFancy answer: Complex Conjugate matching.See the wiki article here:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impedance_matchingAnd if you can get your hands on it, read 'RF Circuit Design' by Chris Bowick.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2015, 02:12:40 pm
content: There's no source or load resistor, so it cannot be said to be a filter as such. It's just a bunch of reactances sticking around. There's no source or load to define a filter coefficient on.Whenever you're doing something with RF (and in fact, this generalizes to everything, not just RF), you must have loss resistance, somewhere. Loss means work performed. Usually as heat. But it also means work generated, which is why sources always have resistance. It also means the potential for more work being done, as an amplifier has input and output impedances: the amplifier's input needs to be matched, in order to maximize gain, and therefore available work at its output!Also, since this appears to be LTspice, beware of the default loss values given (which are not shown on the schematic by default either), which may be completely unsuitable to your circuit.Tim

author: G0HZU
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2015, 07:34:37 pm
content: QuoteI recognise the circuit and the component values as this filter was discussed here about a month ago.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/ham-radio-input-filter-question/msg700699/#msg700699It looks to me like it is designed for a 50R input impedance and a 1500R output impedance to suit an NE602 or SA602 mixer. It's also a 20m filter and not 40m so I think you made a typo in your first post
Equivalent Diodes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Polybus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2015, 09:23:45 am
content: Howdy,I'm putting together a JayCar Battery Zapper Kit and I can't find one of the components - it looks like the 1N4761 diode is missing, and they have possibly replaced it with a C75PH.Is the C75PH equivalent to the 1N4761??I've done a bit of Googling and to me it doesn't look they they are - but I'd value your opinions?Should I solder in the C75PH where the 1N4761 should go??ThanksPolybus

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 19, 2015, 09:30:37 am
content: I can't find much on the C75PH but they both appear to be zeners.

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2015, 09:35:08 am
content: Quote from: Polybus on July 19, 2015, 09:23:45 amIf it came in the Jaycar kit then there should be a note somewhere in there about a substitution. If not you can always call them, but if the data sheet specs are close enough I'd just run it. If it's the zener in the battery zapper kit then it's not super critical anyway (I re-read that particular silicon chip article last night as luck would have it).
Equivalent of saft battery ls33600b - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2019, 05:02:27 am
content: Is there any equivalent of saft battery ls33600b ,http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/513072.pdfOne I found is omincel.Any other good reputed brand for use in oil and gas industry?? Anyone has experience in that?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2019, 11:10:21 am
content: Search "D size SOCl2" and you'll find other manufacturers. Tadiran and Tenergy also make them.

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2019, 01:43:53 pm
content: Opened one of ls33600b pack & found this black thing on right side.Its in series with positive wire. Anyone knows what it is?

author: GerryR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2019, 03:11:16 pm
content: Fuse?

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2019, 03:33:30 am
content: its 3.9ohm resistor: W22

author: GerryR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2019, 12:00:57 pm
content: Current limiter.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2019, 12:06:20 pm
content: why looking for equivalent if it still exist?https://www.ebay.com.my/itm/3-6V-SAFT-D-LS-33600-PRIMARY-LITHIUM-Li-SOCl2-BATTERY-CELL/163464598158?hash=item260f3fd28e:m:miztOFjvMR4k2TZhA8DZyMQ

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2019, 12:44:05 pm
content: Quote from: Vindhyachal.takniki on July 10, 2019, 05:02:27 amIf you have one from the oil or gas industy, than it is most likely IECEX certified battery pack.Look for any of the logos on the product:You cannot replace it with something else, because it is not safe anymore. In fact the pack can olny be replaced with another pack. In fact, you are probably not allowed to open the enclosure.
Equivalent replacement for MM5416 transistor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 10:39:58 pm
content: Hi,I am looking for a suitable replacement for a MM5416 transistor (TO39 package) and I though a 2N5416 would be it.However, I am facing challenges identifying a proper datasheet for the MM5416, so I can confirm the 2N5416 is indeed suitable (found various such datasheets, but they are normally 1-2 pages long, with few real details and also rather inconsistent across them).Could anyone please confirm?Thanks!

author: eblc1388
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2017, 12:54:33 am
content: To decide if a replacement transistor will work, I often follow these steps, apart from choosing the correct NPN/PNP type:A) Will it blow up? - Check Vcbo, Vceo, Ic and PwB) Will it work? - Check fT, Hfe, Vce(sat)C) Will it fit? - Check pinout and physical package sizeD) Is it available at a reasonable price?Not all these data might be available for you to make a good comparison but the replacement part should equal or surpass the existing part characteristic in order not to release the magic smoke. Sometimes you have to accept different pinout or package because of part availability.I looked at both the MM5416 & 2N5416, and 2N5416 is a similar part in (A) & (B) above and they are both TO-39. Don't know the pinout of MM5416 though.Hope this help.

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2017, 10:21:32 pm
content: Quote from: eblc1388 on January 17, 2017, 12:54:33 amThanks for that!In the meantime, I looked at the schematics for the device (i.e. Solartron 7075 multimeter) and it actually specifies 2N5416.
Equivalent replacement for U1897E N-channel JFET - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 10:33:13 pm
content: Hi,I am trying to repair the power supply for my Solartron 7075 DMM which I seem to have killed in my attempt toand check output voltages.When doing so, I was able to witness first hand the appearance of the famous "magic smoke".Anyway, I am now looking to replace the broken components, among which there is this one in a ceramic package and marked U1897E, same as in the picture.Finding details and reliable/consistent datasheet information about it seems to be a challenge (for me anyway).Q1: Anyone has an idea of a good replacement for it?My semi-"shot-in-the-dark" attempt at a replacement is a 2N4391.Q2: Would you consider them equivalent?Q3: Also, is the ceramic package indicative of anything in particular (i.e. higher power rating than a TO-92, for instance)?Thanks!

author: dacman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 10:59:18 pm
content: U1897E = Analog Switch2N4391 = RF JFETTry NTE466Ceramic can keep moister out

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 11:31:54 pm
content: Is this the transistor that's labelled as TR4 ?It's there to speed-up the switching of TR5, its characteristics are not critical but it needs to withstand -30V gate-source voltage. Fairchild say a J111 has equivalent characteristics - and these are not obsolete.

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 12:54:14 am
content: Quote from: dacman on January 25, 2017, 10:59:18 pmAh. Thank you for pointing the difference and for the suggestion!

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 12:57:24 am
content: Quote from: Andy Watson on January 25, 2017, 11:31:54 pmYes, it is TR4.Thank you for that!I will look to get the J111 then (or the NTE466, as proposed by dacman, depending on availability here in UK).

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 01:08:39 am
content: Quote from: dacman on January 25, 2017, 10:59:18 pmOh, wow!RS are selling it for a bit over £5 a piece, with a minimum quantity of 5 units, plus a £10 shipping & handling fee.That must be a very special type of JFET!Luckily, the J111 is a completely different story.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 02:29:23 am
content: That is an early plastic transistor package used by Fairchild. It was replaced by the TO-92 package.

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 10:46:17 pm
content: Quote from: David Hess on January 26, 2017, 02:29:23 amGot it. Thanks!
Equivalent Time Repetitive Signals and High Frequencies - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: PixieDust
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2020, 10:38:11 am
content: I was watching this video:thanks w2aew, you have a top quality channel, appreciate your hard work, have learned a great deal from you.Basically, if you have a 20Mhz scope, you might not see higher frequency ringing that in a low frequency circuit might not even be expected.My experiment is very niche in nature. I have a 100Mhz scope with 300Mhz equivalent time functionality for repetitive signals. I'm not sure how common this option is these days, I've never seen it on anything other than my scope but I haven't looked very hard so I don't know how useful it is to how many of you but it's going to be my little contribution.Anyway, It's going to be especially interesting because the signal is repetitive but not nicely, it's not a sinusoid. It's also interesting because the ringing in that circuit is at 200Mhz, higher than my 100Mhz but lower than 300Mhz, so to my uneducated self (I'm an electronics beginner), this all sounds like an interesting experiment. I'm also in the process going to learn how my scope behaves.What I need are two things.1.) What voltage to use? and should it be DC or AC, I'm guessing DC.2.) What transistor to use?w2aew doesn't specify these things unfortunately.I plan on buying the components and putting this thing together in a breadboard just like w2aew and then I'll upload a video with the results.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2020, 07:51:05 pm
content: Quote from: PixieDust on April 20, 2020, 10:38:11 amUse DC coupling if the duty cycle varies. Otherwise as the average voltage changes, then the baseline will wander up and down.QuoteAny 300 MHz small signal transistor like a 2N3904, 2N4401, or 2N2222 will work.QuoteIn my experience equivalent time sampling DSOs displayed the spurious oscillation just fine *if* the amplitude was high enough. The problem I have had in the past is that any DSO could not resolve the detail necessary to even see a low level spurious oscillation while an analog oscilloscope showed it as a noticable trace thickening.

author: PixieDust
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2020, 11:32:27 pm
content: Quote from: David Hess on April 20, 2020, 07:51:05 pmWhat would be an appropriate voltage? 9V?Quote from: David Hess on April 20, 2020, 07:51:05 pmGocha, I have an analog scope, so I'm hoping to see a similar waveform to w2aew.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2020, 12:37:52 am
content: Quote from: PixieDust on April 20, 2020, 11:32:27 pmDo you mean what would be an appropriate voltage for the phase shift oscillator w2aew demonstrates? 12 or 15 volts would be typical but 5 or 9 volts is feasible as well.

author: PixieDust
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2020, 04:50:06 am
content: Yep exactly, don't know what voltage to apply to w2aew's circuit.
Error in relative measurements as opposed to absolute measurements? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Chris935
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 04, 2018, 07:09:12 pm
content: Lets say I have a bench PSU powering a project via relatively thin wires, and the circuit uses a relatively high current. I want to measure the voltage drop across the positive supply wire, and I want to do this with as little error as possible.The DC V accuracy spec of my hypothetical meter is +- 1%, +5 counts, on all ranges. The meter is 6000 counts. If I put one probe on the PSU end of the wire, and another on and circuit end, and I read 550.0mV this means that the real value lies somewhere between (550.0 - 0.5 X 0.99) = 544.005mV and (550.0 + 0.5 X 1.01) = 556.005mV. I'm calculating the counts before the percentage as I think that error is introduced later in the process, so should be undone in the reverse order. I have a potential error of 12mV.My understanding is that the % error is due to the potential discrepancy between assumed voltage and the actual voltage of the internal voltage reference, and that the counts error is due to internal noise and the resolution of the ADC.If the above is correct, could I eliminate the percentage error by instead making a relative measurement, comparing one absolute measurement to another? As I'm using the same internal voltage reference with the same error for both measurements the difference between them should still be correct. Of course the ADC resolution would still have a potential error, and I'd have two counts errors rather than just one.Say I measured 5.000V between the PSU positive and negative terminals, and 4.450V between PSU negative and the circuit end of the positive wire. If I don't have to consider the percentage error, the real value lies between (5.000 + 0.005) - (4.450 - 0.005) = 0.56V and (5.000 - 0.005) - (4.450 + 0.005) = 0.54V, a potential error of 20mV.In this example the error is greater, but would this be a valid thing to do on a meter with particularly bad % error, but fairly low counts error? If I used an unrealistic example with only 10% accuracy the second example would of course be preferable. Maybe on a meter with uncertain cal, as the voltage reference may drift whereas the ADC resolution won't?Is my thinking correct?Chris

author: AG6QR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2018, 07:31:50 pm
content: Do some math. Assume you have a meter that is consistently 10% low. Measuring across the wire will obviously be 10% low, but so will measuring each end and subtracting.Worse, with a real meter, you have no guarantee that the percentage error will be the same on each measurement, so doing two measurements and subtracting can make things significantly worse.
Error; low cost dc voltmeter +-20V - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2014, 06:14:34 pm
content: 1. I have to make a low cost dc voltmeter with range +-20V2. I am using the circuit as attached.3. problem is if I applu any voltage across j1 two terminals, I get correct voltage J2 terminal.If I apply 10V at j1, then voltage divider across 90K & 10K forms 1V across 10K.& net voltage at J2 is 2.5V+1V = 3.5V.4. But as soon as i connect microcontroller the voltage starts varying randomly, no particular value.I have configured pin properly as adc.5. If I apply direct voltage at pin say 1V, I am able to measure it properly.6. What could be error.

author: Paul Price
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2014, 11:10:14 pm
content: Fascinating.Maybe your circuit is sometimes applying too much voltage to the A2D input and your MCU becomes completely confused by this overload.Your circuit seems to include many extraneous extra parts whose purpose seems to be as mysterious as the random voltages you measure.Try reading more about electricity theory.Google "Basic Electronics for Beginners." and then after you understand how circuits work a little better, then try to Google to find more knowledge about "voltage dividers."

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2014, 11:48:45 pm
content: Just making sure ... but the supplies for the micro and the voltage under test don't share a ground right? (At least one of them has to float.)

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2014, 06:58:55 pm
content: solved, MCU pin was damaged.

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2014, 06:38:46 am
content: To protect pin from crossing voltage limit I have added two diodes.Instead of +-20v in this circuit it has CT whose output max is 1.5V ac.
Error while using TightVncViewer; RPi - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2015, 05:17:16 am
content: 1. Whenever I start TightVncViewer in my desktop PC(window) & try to connect it to RPi2 board with Raspbian.Attched error comes.2. However if I press Ok & ignore it. Everything works fine.
error with active freertos in keil - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Glad_Boy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 26, 2018, 01:49:13 pm
content: hello ...i have some problem that is when after define all of pins in stm32cube and i want use freertos and active it in stm32cube . when the codes genarete in keil and become compiled it has error with freertos ... what should i do? when i disactive freertos compile correctly . plz help
Ersa i-CON nano vs. JBC BT-2BWA - what to buy for a beginner? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Soldersoldier
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 15, 2018, 02:01:35 pm
content: Hello,some time ago my brother started doing small repairs that require soldering (changing microswitches in computer mice, soldering together led stripes etc). However, he still uses a really cheap 20€ soldering iron / station (i think it is this one:https://shop.pichler.de/Loetstation-P1) and has mentioned several times that he'd like to have a better soldering station. I'd like to buy him one. It doesn't need to be super high end though.Now I have looked through the forum and googled a bit and I found two possible options:The Ersa i-CON nanoand theJBC BT-2BWAFrom what I have read the JBC is better. But it would cost me about twice the price (I could get the 80W i-CON Nano for ~160€, the JBC goes for 300-320€). What do you think. Is it worth it in this situation? Is there any other model I should consider?

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2018, 02:09:14 pm
content: Quote from: Soldersoldier on September 15, 2018, 02:01:35 pmERSA will serve him very well, it's a good quality equipment. And tips are MUCH cheaper. ERSA with a collection of tips will be much more useful to him.Not to mention that in Germany he can buy ERSA tips pretty much anywhere.My 2 cents..Regards,Sinisa.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 15, 2018, 02:10:29 pm
content: JBC will also have much higher cost of ownership. A lot more expensive cartridges compared to Ersa tips and on top of that they are much less durable than Ersa.

author: abraxa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2018, 07:47:58 pm
content: As a side note, the Nano is made in Germany, so buying it supports local companies.

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2018, 08:27:54 pm
content: I have the Nano for several years now and it is a very good soldering iron.Just make sure to buy a few extra fixation nuts for the tips - the tip is very difficult to remove from the nut once pressed in and that is definitely not something you would want to be fighting with when you need to change the tip while still hot. This is one of the few pet peeves I have with that iron, along with a rather stiff cable to the handle.The JBC is certainly better but a major overkill for a beginner. The ERSA will do everything he needs and more and certainly beats all those cheap Chinese irons like Aoyue, Yihua and similar.
Escooter conversion, battery can't handle current draw ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sargalha
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 02, 2020, 11:56:46 pm
content: Hey guys !I'm trying to do a scooter conversion, I have a 250 watt battery (36 v) and a 350 watt chinese generic controller. The thing is, when going uphill the battery shuts off. I think that maybe due to the current being drawn being too high. Does anybody know how to fix this issue ? Can I limit the draw current in anyway besides buying a new controller? Sorry for my english and for my poor knowlege of electronics I'm just starting, thanks for the help !

author: Gregg
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2020, 12:34:06 am
content: More information is needed to answer your questions.1. What are the specifications of the motor and is it designed to be used with a scooter? For instance, a drone motor wouldn’t make a very good scooter motor. Does it have thermal protection?2. What are the specifications of the controller? Be aware that cheap Chinese modules often have highly exaggerated specs.3. What are the battery specs? Same comment that many battery specs are highly exaggerated. Do the battery cells have protection circuits?In general what you are experiencing could be one or more of the following:1. The motor is overloaded and drawing too much current.2. The battery controller can’t handle the current to the motor3. The battery voltage is dropping too much

author: Circlotron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2020, 01:34:25 am
content: What is the final drive gearing like. e.g how many revs of the motor for 1 metre forward movement. If the gearing is too steep the motor will struggle and draw lots of current.
ESC/POS printer driver for windows 10? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: LinuxHata
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2024, 08:35:01 pm
content: Hello.I bought cheap thermal label printer on temu - Sinmark SK58. Which is ESC/POS compatible, according to the manual.It works fine, and has USB connection too.Windows detects it, it can be installed as "generic/text only" and it works.Hardware id's are: USB\VID_EA62&PID_1115But google knows nothing about it. I found this:https://www.hsprinter.com/en/PrinterTools.html"Thermal printer windows test tools" And that software works - you can print barcodes, images, qr codes and plain text on this printer. However, that software does not support using your own fonts, only built-in font.I tried to install various Zebra printer ESC/POS drivers, but all they print garbage.Any ideas?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2024, 03:21:22 am
content: Quote from: LinuxHata on December 06, 2024, 08:35:01 pmNote that ESC/POS is a character-oriented command set, not a graphics one, so graphics capabilities are very limited. You can try testing if it supports the raster image command:https://escpos.readthedocs.io/en/latest/imaging.html#d7630

author: LinuxHata
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2024, 06:11:27 am
content: As I said above, yes it supports image printing.I'm asking whenever there is a driver for such printers, so they can be used in any windows software, just as "normal" printers, not only as "text only" printers.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2024, 03:52:37 am
content: Have you tried an ESC/P2 driver?

author: LinuxHata
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2024, 06:20:02 pm
content: And where to get that driver?

author: prints-f-darkness
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2024, 02:45:23 am
content: You rang my bell, I used to be in the thermal printer game.company website:http://www.jiexinit.cn/?page_id=20041driver link:http://www.jiexinit.cn/?page_id=10151website with another driver download:https://www.f2ctechnology.com/drivers/let me know if the driver works.

author: LinuxHata
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2024, 06:38:47 pm
content: Thanks a lot, it worked!But installation is not straightforward - printer is not detected by installer. So I have to go to add printer manually, select matching USB port, browse to installed drivers folder, and select printer from there. I also found that "Xprinter XP-58" drivers can be installed, exactly same way.
ESD 1 meg ohm resistor Protection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 10:31:20 am
content: Hi all, probably a very basic question.Anti static mat and wrist strap connected to 3 button earth bonding point with 1meg ohm resistance such ashttps://uk.farnell.com/desco/231345/bar-ebp-3x10mm-studs/dp/3026553The 3rd stud on the earth bonding point going to something likehttps://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/070-0011/earth-bonding-plug-uk-3x10mm/dp/1687854Does it affect anything with both having the 1 meg ohm protection.I'm about to start going through various courses and books to learn all of this, but want to make sure it's safe as my wrist will be connected to thisThanks

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 11:10:48 am
content: My thinking is as follows.If as the diagram below shows, using the wrist strap, I have 3 resistors in series, it would be 3 meg ohm not 1.As I am told I need 1 meg ohm for my own safety, thats why I want to double check everything is safe

author: ArthurDent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 01:47:57 pm
content: Keep in mind that resistors have max voltage ratings. Smaller chip resistors may have ratings in the 75V range and axial resistors may have voltage rating in the 200V range, depending on size. If used on A.C. you have to consider the peak value and not the R.M.S. value of the voltage. This is why you may find resistors in series on line or higher voltage circuits instead of just 1 resistor of the same combined value, as shown in the circuit below. I believe some commercially made grounding straps use conductive thread instead of wire to the wrist strap to distribute the drop along the length of the strap 'wire'. As mentioned in the post above, 3 resistors are better.

author: arekm
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 10, 2022, 08:38:01 pm
content: So what's the answer?Is resistance between ESD mat and ground point total 2MΩ also OK and gives mostly the same result as with 1MΩ for ESD purposes? (for safety 2MΩ is better than 1MΩ I guess but asking about ESD)Or is it required (by some standards for example) for mat to be connected using total 1MΩ resistance to ground point?
ESD boxes: dissipative or conductive? or both? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: analogo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 08:01:24 pm
content: After burning my 100th MOSFET (carpets, carpets everywhere) while picking it from its box I decided to take ESD seriously: ESD mat (easy to find) and ESD component boxes (not so easy to find).I browsed the forum and found this European producer Liceta that sells ESD boxes. Their catalogue containsconductive-only anddissipative-only boxes. They also produce boxes that are both conductiveanddissipative. Which one should I get?BTW, how can something be dissipative without being conductive?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2017, 12:13:52 am
content: http://transforming-technologies.com/esd-fyi/difference-between-conductive-dissipative-and-insulative/Ideally you would get conductive component boxes, but sometimes these cost a fortune. So if its not within your budget then get the dissipative ones.If you built up a charge on the carpet, and grabbed a mosfet in a dissipative box, it stillmightbe possible to damage it, as the static can pass through.Is it possible to wear an ESD strap?A conductive and dissipative box sounds like its multi-material to balance cost between one or the other? Maybe you can link the box in question.

author: analogo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2017, 06:26:49 am
content: Quote from: thm_w on May 20, 2017, 12:13:52 amThese are the boxes dissipative/conductive I found:http://www.tooltronics.nl/Multivers/Extra%20Info%20Artikelen/TL0050.pdf

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2017, 06:47:27 am
content: If you build up such a large charge to destroy so many MOSFETs, ESD boxes will not help much, because once you touch them the charge will still find is way trough the box.Instead, do something to remove the charge bevore handling parts: Add some grounded (grounded over 1M) conductive bars near your part storage you can touch before grabbing parts.

author: leham
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2017, 08:35:45 am
content: what about metal parts bins, like used in other kinds of workshops?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2017, 10:07:23 pm
content: Quote from: analogo on May 20, 2017, 06:26:49 amSo they are multi-material. Generally the dark black plastic will be the conductive (from the added carbon), and the other colors are dissipative.Get conductive or ones that include conductive material (its nice to have a clear window, so that part won't be conductive), if budget allows.

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2017, 10:44:15 pm
content: Quote from: leham on May 20, 2017, 08:35:45 amThat's what came to my mind as well. Then, add a 1M resistor and a line to ground. However, it's still a good idea to ground yourself prior to touching sensitive parts and the things in which they're housed.
ESD Designator on Coax Digital Audio Input - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: klausderbauer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 26, 2020, 12:03:12 am
content: Hi all,I have a sound bar that I found in a trash heap, and luckily it is working except for a buzzing in the right speaker when the audio input is an optical cable. With I use the sound bar with bluetooth, it sounds fine.Anyway, I opened up the input and saw a reference designator "ESD" that I have not seen before. It is located at the input of a digital coax audio cable. I am quite new to hobby electronics so have not been deep into many boards yet. Any help would be much appreciated.

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2020, 01:17:33 am
content: most likely an "ESD protection diode"

author: klausderbauer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 26, 2020, 01:22:02 am
content: Much appreciated. I had heard of TVS diodes before but after some googling it looks like they are often used for this purpose. Thanks!
ESD diode which gnd to use - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rakeshm55
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2019, 05:38:16 am
content: Hi,My understanding is to connect external ESD diodes to device ground. eg for GPIOs ESD diode will be connected from GPIO to digital ground.I happen to see schematics of AM5728http://www.ti.com/tool/tmdsevm572x?jktype=tools_software#1Here the ESD diode is connected to chassis rather than device ground. What is the reason?? Which the recommended practice??Please share some literature if any

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 20, 2019, 09:18:48 am
content: The chassis is normally connected to the mains third prong, a good place for ESD to go.

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 20, 2019, 09:34:03 am
content: Interesting. I'd say ESD kills by creating dangerous difference in potential. On you picture the IC itself is connected between Vcc and digital ground. I'd clamp output with two diodes to IC ground.I see it uses audio jacks or something. In such connector usually ground is connected first. But not sure if this can cause problems here or not.Would like to know more.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2019, 09:42:23 am
content: You could still have a charged cable transient, but that too is unlikely due to how audio jacks tend to wipe across ground.My complaint is more basic, there are threedifferentgrounds shown in this schematic. There might be good reasons to do this, but they get less and less probable as the number of grounds go up. For the part shown, in and of itself, it's only a hazard.Tim

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 20, 2019, 10:00:10 am
content: I don't see grounds connected. Can this cause problems? I mean, the output is clamped to chassis, but not the IC ground. So, an ESD event on IC ground can potentially go through the IC itself.Or, put another way: input has two wires, and both of them should be clamped to power rails. Am I correct?
ESD earthing plug: should socket be switched on or should it be switched off? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 3rj4
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2021, 10:47:37 pm
content: I'm currently using the ESD earth plughttps://www.oritech.com.au/clipsal-esd-earth-plug.htmlto ground my workbench. I've attached the round wire from my workbench mount to the plug, and plugged it into the socket. Since the socket now serves the ESD earthing plug, should it be switched on or should it be switched off?

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2021, 10:59:01 pm
content: Shouldn't make any difference functionally, the earth is not switched, and the A/N are not connected to anything in the plug I assume.From a safety perspective, I guess off is better than on, but, nothing in the plug is connected to A/N, so, yeah, whatever.

author: artag
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2021, 01:04:41 pm
content: Off, for sure.Because if it's correctly connected and so it doesn't matter, it doesn't matter.But if it's not correctly connected and therefore itdoesmatter, off is what you want.
ESD in open board products like Arduino - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: praveen
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 28, 2021, 11:34:59 am
content: As a beginner Electronics student I hear a lot about ESD, safety, precautions and protection in the storage and assembly of the electronic components. Also I read that the damage caused by ESD is not apparent and the effects may take a while to realize.I am wondering how Arduino, Raspberry Pi, STM32 boards, the shields and sensor modules that are sold as uncovered 'naked' PCBs with all the components exposed deal with ESD. Now obviously not everyone using an Arduino or RPi used it in an ESD safe zone, wearing wrist straps and stuff.So how does it work? Are there measures taken to minimize (if not eliminate) ESD on a bare board?

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2021, 11:45:30 am
content: Having a full board with a lot of ground plane and ground pins exposed, the risk of getting a dangerously high ESD voltage at some IO pin or internal sensitive node is just so much smaller compared to if all the pins are exposed directly.Also, for example, MOSFET gates are most sensitive to ESD, so they don't have those exposed on the board connectors.IO pins that they directly bring out to pin headers have ESD protection, albeit not very good, but much better than nothing.Finally, these productsshouldreally be handled with proper ESD precautions. It's just that given the above points, risks are smaller. If people have troubles with such cheap boards, they just say, "hey, it's broken", get a new one, and don't analyse why it failed. It can very realistically be due to ESD.Youcoulddesign said products to be safer against ESD, to different levels of requirements, but Raspi or especially Arduino do not do this because they are the lowest cost race to the bottom products.You could easily add ESD protection components to each IO brought outside then add a tiny metal box around the product, but that could easily increase BOM cost by like +100% for an Arduino or like +20% for a Raspi.

author: Feynman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2021, 08:28:41 am
content: Like you said, ESD most of the time occurs over time with a degradation of performance and/or life time. But since such boards are basically consumer toys, nobody expects these things to work for 10+ years within full specification.The only reasonable way to eliminate ESD on a bare board is proper ESD safe handling.
ESD laminate vs normal laminate - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jpb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2018, 03:53:27 pm
content: I wasn't sure where to place this topic/question - I know the technical facts about ESD laminate, what I don't know is how bad (ESD wise) normal laminate is.I am looking to buy a bench that will be tall enough to go over my work table/bench and will hold most of my kit (meters, power supplies and so on). I'll have a normal ESD mat on my wooden (oak) table.For the workbench there is a choice between normal laminate and ESD laminate. BUT whereas the normal laminate bench is £360 in round numbers the ESD version is £582!It seems a bit OTT to pay for the ESD laminate but how bad is normal laminate for static compared to say MDF? I can buy an 1800x600 ESD mat for the bench for around £50 (vinyl rather than rubber but this isn't for soldering).

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2018, 06:01:43 pm
content: Normal laminate is non-conductive. So no different than using a piece of glass.But instead of buying the expensive ESD top, check out the cost for getting a suitably sized 2 layer rubber ESD mat instead. I mention this as I find the rubber mat is superior to ESD laminate as it protects the table surface from dings, dents, scratches, and most importantly, thermal damage from soldering equipment.And as a general rule, this tends to be less expensive as well. Just not so sure about UK/EU sources though.However, there's a Canadian seller on eBay (canvuO_O) that will do custom sizes and ship internationally*. His pricing is the best I've ever seen. To put his pricing into perspective, a 30"x60" mat shipped to the US would run $78.50 total ($58.50 for the mat & $20 shipping).So sending an email in regard to total cost to the UK would definitely be worth it IMHO.

author: jpb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2018, 08:10:39 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on June 28, 2018, 06:01:43 pmThanks for the response. Digikey do a vinly ESD mat for £40 something plus VAT and I think that may well be the right option (I'd prefer rubber but it doesn't really matter as I don't intend to do any soldering on it).

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2018, 09:53:06 pm
content: Quote from: jpb on June 28, 2018, 08:10:39 pmThat would certainly be more cost effective, and the savings usable elsewhere I'd wager.