Soldering Iron on Standby - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: vidarr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2025, 06:00:20 pm
content: My good iron ran out of tips before the replacements arrived. So, I am stuck using one of these cheap irons that only have two modes, On and Off (plugged in, or unplugged).When I set the iron down while working on other stuff for a minute (eg need to change something with the project unexpectedly), the iron gets so hot that the tip starts to deteriorate and other sorts of problems, like melting the insulation around the wire when soldering the wire to a pad.How do you handle the heat of the iron without having to unplug it? Like keeping the tip submerged under water until I use it? Not really, but maybe really. lol.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2025, 06:26:42 pm
content: Quote from: vidarr on February 08, 2025, 06:00:20 pmI would measure the power your iron is actually drawing - like with a power meter (also called a watt meter). It should only be drawing 30W.What voltage is your outlet? Google says that some places in Brazil have both 127 and 220V outlets. The iron is meant to be used with 127V - it will draw a lot more power if used in a 220V socket.

author: vidarr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2025, 07:17:04 pm
content: We do have 127 and 220/240, and both at the same time in the same building; you really have to check receptacles even if they are labelled. Where I do solder work it is 127.I don't know if I have a power meter. I'll have to look. But if I am drawing more than the 30W, what then? I am guessing I would need some kind of "dimmer" circuit?A while back, I built a dimmer circuit for a fan. Turn the dial up/down to control the speed. I'm guessing that might work for the iron too???Thank You!

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2025, 08:16:00 pm
content: You could put an incandescent light bulb in series with the iron. You'll have to experiment with the wattage... maybe start with a 30W bulb and see how that affects things.Are your tips rated for 30W? Just covering all the bases...

author: vidarr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2025, 09:09:07 pm
content: All our bulbs are fluorescent. Maybe they can be dimmed, never tried. Always thought they were either on or off (except you can see at night, they faintly glow).Also, we have DIRTY Electricity in Brazil ---VERY DIRTY. I have so many electronics ruined from this dirty electricity. Now, I use line conditioners and so-called "no breaks". But, my $10k server went thru three blown power supplies even with the line conditioner (I found out later that it was a bad design and very poor quality, that is why, So I upgraded since then.).Check out the rot of my iron's tip. This happens every single time. I usually keep soldering with that tip until it eventually breaks off. But, you can see that I keep the very tip in good condition. In order to do that, I am constantly unplugging the iron and cooling on wet sponge, put flux on it, then some solder coat. If I leave the iron plugged in while I am working with wires, placing components, the entire tip will rot.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2025, 09:36:35 pm
content: Quote from: ledtester on February 08, 2025, 06:26:42 pmQuote from: ledtester on February 08, 2025, 08:16:00 pmWhy 30W when the nameplate in the photo clearly says 50W?

author: vidarr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2025, 09:53:00 pm
content: Why 30W when the nameplate in the photo clearly says 50W?I thought he just made a typo mistake...

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2025, 10:09:06 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on February 08, 2025, 09:36:35 pmI just misread it.

author: vidarr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 02:12:31 am
content: What about my corroding iron tips? I still have not found a solution to stop this.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 02:23:10 am
content: An oldtimer's hack for non-temperature controlled AC mains 'firestick' irons was to wire a switch in series with a 1N4007 diode across it. Open the switch and the iron is on half power, which is normally enough to keep a resting iron reasonably close to soldering temperature so it will warm up to operating temperature in only a couple of seconds when the switch closes. For extra credit, use a long lever arm microswitch and mount it so putting the iron in its stand opens the switch!

author: EPAIII
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 03:30:01 am
content: In my lifetime of repairing electronics I have seen far too much damage caused by soldering irons that were too hot. Now yes there are times when you need a lot of heat because something is large enough to require it in order to properly melt the solder and have it "wet" the surfaces being soldered, but that's when you need higher Wattage irons, not higher temperatures.There is NO substitute for a temperature controlled soldering iron. I purchased my first such iron/station (Weller WTCP) around 50+ years ago and it is still on my bench in daily use - with the original tips. Back in the 70s it set me back by a lot for that time but it was and still is worth every penny.But since I retired around 13 years ago I have purchased two additional soldering irons, both temperature controlled. The first, a Tenma station with a digital temperature display, a nice holder for the iron, and a foil cleaning pad only cost around $45, plus shipping of course. It is on my second electronic bench and is just about every bit as good as my Weller. Again money well spent.Finally I recently purchased a hand held, pencil style iron which has changeable tips for melting the brass threaded inserts into 3D printed objects. Those inserts require a fitted tip for each thread size so the iron came with both regular tips for soldering and about 8 tips for the inserts. The whole set, iron and both styles of tips cost around $20 and yes it is temperature controlled. It even has a digital display that reads in either F or C. Frankly I was floored when I saw the ad and delighted when I first used it. I wouldn't have dreamed that an iron with those features could be purchased for anything near that price. All it lacks is a stand but one could be easily made from a tin can or a wire coat hanger. It may not last as long as my Weller has, but, adjusted for inflation, it only cost around 5% as much.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJR4Y192/ref=cfb_at_prodpgNot only is there no substitute for a temperature controlled iron today, but, at $20, with free shipping, there is no reason not to buy one. With a little searching you may even beat my price.

author: EPAIII
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 03:32:34 am
content: Modern irons (past 50 or 60 years) use steel plated tips.THEY DO NOT CORRODE. As I said above, I have tips for my Weller that I have been using for over 50 years and they are as good as new.Throw that POS iron away. FAR AWAY!Oh, and stop using a wet sponge. Who knows what that water brings with it. Instead use the metal foil pads which work dry and clean the tips very well.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FX4V7PZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1Quote from: vidarr on February 09, 2025, 02:12:31 am

author: vidarr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 02:21:18 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on February 09, 2025, 02:23:10 amAwesome! Thank You!!!!

author: vidarr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 02:30:59 pm
content: Quote from: EPAIII on February 09, 2025, 03:32:34 amI am in the middle of Nowhere, Brazil. Everything I order comes from China on a boat, or someone traveling buys it abroad and brings it back for me.The foil pads looks like a good option to replace the sponge, but I only have stainless steel.The cheap, garbage iron was for soldering/desoldering electrical waste and appliances, this sort of thing. My good iron is temperature controlled, but my last tip broke before the new ones arrived (they are on a boat, coming from China).THANK YOU!!!

author: Xena E
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 03:36:03 pm
content: Quote from: vidarr on February 09, 2025, 02:12:31 amIf the iron gets too hot as you say, that will accelerate the deterioration, the thin plating on cheap bits also are affected badly by aggressive fluxes particularly in lead free solder, so you may have two things that are causing the tips to be damaged.Use Ian M suggestion for the diode dropper, it will give you around 70%powervoltage on standby, (half power to the iron), and if possible only use rosin core tin/lead solder, if you have it.Regards,XEdit: correction

author: vidarr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 06:18:13 pm
content: Quote from: Xena E on February 09, 2025, 03:36:03 pmI found the diode in my parts bin, and also the switch. But, I am having trouble with the English instructions:"...wire a switch in series with a 1N4007 diode across it."I understand the switch in series with the iron. Instead of unplugging the iron to turn it off, there is a switch.Receptacle ---> Switch ---> IronWhat is "diode across it"? I really want to make this switch with diode circuit today, so I can get back to my "real" project.Thanks!!!edit: For a fact I know I have lots of lead free solder; I needed it to solder copper tubing/pipes/plumbing for a large still for distilling ethanol. Not sure if I have lead solder, but I will definitely use it if I have it, or buy it.

author: Zoli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 06:24:15 pm
content: The diode is parallel with the switch: switch on=full power, switch off=half power.

author: Xena E
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 06:27:32 pm
content: Here.

author: Xena E
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 06:31:07 pm
content: Plumbing solder usually uses a very acidic flux, (often zinc chloride), that is certain death in short order to solder iron bitsRegards,X

author: vidarr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 11:16:46 pm
content: Xena E --- Thank you Very Much!!!

author: Xena E
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2025, 01:03:35 am
content: Quote from: vidarr on February 09, 2025, 11:16:46 pmDe nada!X