The Uni-T UT33c or d - how good they are? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: atferrari
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2015, 05:12:27 pm
content: I recall seen very recently, a post with a picture showing two DMM UT33 and a comment about them.This morning I run across them in a shop and they are extremely cheap even for our ridiculos standard where everything could cost up to 4 or even 8 times the prevailing price outside (ie DS1307 = 8USD). At least they are not ugly...The "d" measures temperatures as well and there is a more complete model that seems able to do many other things. (??)Anyone using them could say how good (or less than good) they are?They are not in the Excel spreadsheet in the sticky.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 26, 2015, 06:00:09 pm
content: They are made very cheaply and worth maybe $8. I purchased one at basically the same price here in Chile. They work, and well enough for general testing in the car or on the bench but keep them away from anything like the wall socket or other high energy sources. Think of it as a disposable meter that you use in where you on't want to expose your good meter to dirt and grease around a car. You have to open the case to access the battery and the only fuse on the mA range and the screws are very small self tappers. Because of this it is likely you will change the battery 5 or 6 times and then not have a meter that stays together well after.$8? In Argentina and Chile it is a steal for a simple kick around multimeter. Get two or three. Just remember keep it away from high energy stuff.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 26, 2015, 06:17:46 pm
content: I just pulled mine out of the car (actually my camioneta) where I keep it for road side checks and it has been there for 3 years through all temperatures. It is still in spec.

author: paulie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2015, 06:31:28 pm
content: Several friends have one (or more) and I own a same cost more modern version, UT136b, which is virtually identical and can say they are a fantastic deal. Extremely sensitive AC and DC voltage/current ranges, accurate 10mhz frequency counter, ergonomic auto power off (battery lasts 2+ years), and most important for me instantly responsive beeper. I'm convinced you can run over these with a truck and will last forever. Very compact too, actually does fit in a shirt pocket.To be honest I use cheaper units most of the time because they are even smaller but mostly because I've got them scattered all over the place and one always in reach.

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2015, 07:01:32 pm
content: i bought one UT33C just out of curiosity... (and use it for unimportant auxiliary measurements - and it also does temperature).. it's built to a price... squared...the 10 ampere input is not fused at all , input protection is almost zero.. i wouldn't go with it anywhere close to mains.

author: atferrari
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2015, 07:03:45 pm
content: Quote from: Lightages on May 26, 2015, 06:00:09 pmGracias LAThe 8 USD price is for the DS1820 (temperature sensor).The rest, duly noted.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 26, 2015, 09:21:56 pm
content: OK, so how much is the UT33 series in Argentina?One other thing I love, is the manual back light switch. I hate, HATE, when multimeters only have a back light that times out under CPU control, and has no option to keep it on until you turn it off.

author: atferrari
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2015, 10:49:15 pm
content: Quote from: Lightages on May 26, 2015, 09:21:56 pmAround 180 pesos. About 20 USD depending what exchange rate you look at.

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2015, 11:24:01 pm
content: Two UT33As here. No complaints. Good general purpose meters for the money. I have poked the mains sockets in my house with mine if I'm honest. I wouldn't go dangling off a three phase line transformer or something though with one.

author: paulie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2015, 11:40:34 pm
content: Yes, I always use the Fluke when testing the 10 million joule 20kv impulse generator in my basement or base jumping 500 foot waterfalls before work every day. Everything else the UTI is great.

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2015, 11:46:59 pm
content: So true

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 01:26:11 am
content: Quote from: atferrari on May 26, 2015, 10:49:15 pmAt this price, not such a good deal. Can you get things imported from Hong Kong and China through ebay without paying big taxes?

author: atferrari
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 01:42:01 am
content: Quote from: Lightages on May 27, 2015, 01:26:11 amyou never know what they could be asking you to pay when the goods are here.

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 08:41:08 am
content: Quote from: paulie on May 26, 2015, 11:40:34 pmtill the day you forget your probes connected in the unfused 10amp input and will try to measure the mains voltage... if you'll do that in the distribution box you'll most probably end up with 3rd degree burns in hospital... if unlucky then 6 feet under.

author: jimon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 10:58:08 am
content: IMHO they are fine for low voltage and low current auxiliary stuff, like tracking some voltages or some small currents. I even used it once to track 4 amps (but low voltage)I even tried to poke mains in a socket couple of times, but then I use proper probes (Fluke TL175 or similar) and put device far away from myself. Just be concision and know exactly what are you doing. And yes, invest in proper probes.My main problem with them - they are slow as hell (almost any handheld DMM is slow, so my go to tool is benchtop DMM).

author: paulie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 11:40:51 am
content: Quote from: rob77 on May 27, 2015, 08:41:08 amTypical internet naysaying and brandboy hyperbole. Back in the 90s it was lithium batteries burning down the neighborhood. Anyone reading other posts here might know I've done exactly that (more than one occasion too) yet here to tell the tale:Quote from: paulie on May 26, 2015, 06:39:49 pmhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/how-much-sould-a-hobbiest-spend-on-a-multimeter/60/Those videos of exploding meters in that thread were very entertaining but not very real world oriented. Individuals with access to that kind of high energy equipment are unlikely to own hobby grade meters. Fuse ratings and other safety features are just a matter of degree and under the right conditions even the expensive meters will behave similarly. IMO those scare tactics are at best little more than scientific curiosities, or worse, dealers drumming up business for higher margin product.Admittedly top line meters behave better in un-typical high voltage high current incidents. But not "probably" or even very likely to result in serious physical harm at line levels. Burnt leads or PCB runs yes, hospital visit unlikely. I would definitely prefer to screw up like that with my Fluke but since it is rarely used I'm personally ok with trashed leads on the cheapie. Obviously we are each responsible for our own risk assessment so note this is just my own opinion as you are entitled to yours.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 01:53:41 pm
content: Quote from: paulie on May 27, 2015, 11:40:51 amAnecdotes are not evidence.You're missing at least two points:a) We're human and sometimes get the dial setting wrong (or half way between two positions). If you do that you might be feeding mains through a low impedance path in the meter or even directly into the battery. Ordinary household mains is plenty to set fire to the meter if you do that.b) Plenty of people live in areas where huge mains spikes happen on a daily basis. Even in big cities you're not 100% safe. A couple of months ago a mains spike took out the telephone exchange board at my wife's company (this was confirmed by the electricity company and claimed for under their insurance).

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 02:07:47 pm
content: Quote from: paulie on May 27, 2015, 11:40:51 amsure, then try to short the mains with the UNFUSED 10Amp shunt of the UT33C.... you'll notice the hyperbole for sure...

author: Zbig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 02:21:19 pm
content: Quote from: rob77 on May 27, 2015, 02:07:47 pmYes, what then? You do realize that the house wiring is designed with handling short circuit conditions in mind and that's what the circuit breakers are for, right? I'll tell you what you'll notice: you'll hear a reasonably loud bang, see some flash, you'll get startled and will have to walk to the circuit breaker box to reset the tripped fuse. A bang and a flash. No drama, no deaths, no life flashing before your eyes. Honestly, you haven't EVER tripped a breaker by mistake?

author: paulie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 02:27:36 pm
content: Quote from: rob77 on May 27, 2015, 02:07:47 pmMaybe read more carefully. That is exactly the point of the last few posts.Unless for some strange reason you are talking about literally removing the shunt from the meter and shorting to mains. Like those previous high energy experiments it would indeed have spectacular result. But like those not a reasonable or realistic situation. In this universe thin probe wires or PCB runs give out long before the shunt.I'm convinced there are far more likely and dangerous aspects to playing with line voltages like electrocution from grabbing exposed wiring or dropping a screwdriver.

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 02:50:33 pm
content: Quote from: paulie on May 27, 2015, 11:40:51 amA car battery definitely has enough current to singe the leads of an unfused meter in your hands. A pretty common application for a meter, to check the car battery voltage.People make mistakes, I've used multimeters all my life but I still occasionally forget to change a setting. It's kind of ironic that those who are experienced get the safest gear because they don't spare expense on quality gear, and the beginners who definitely should get safe gear, get less than safe gear, because it's cheap entry level stuff.There is also an issue of giving out unsafe advice on a public forum read by thousands of people. I'd rather be overly safe in my recommendations than think that my recommendation hurt some kid who just got into electronics.

author: paulie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 03:14:55 pm
content: Quote from: Muxr on May 27, 2015, 02:50:33 pmYes, but not likely to cause the meter to explode. Twice in my life I have seen near life threatening events involving car battery. Both times caused by dropping a tool across the terminals where it gets instantly welded in place. Lots of steam and battery acid everywhere. On the other hand regarding DMM from a couple personal experiences and dozens 2nd hand no explosions or even sparks or fire. Worst case a small section of melted cable plastic but usually just hot then open circuit.Quote from: Muxr on May 27, 2015, 02:50:33 pmSo best advice would be to avoid all activity related to electricity and stay home in a cotton box. Some gurus do enjoy making noobs shiver in fright and watching them dance with wild goose chase advice. I prefer a more balanced viewpoint.

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 03:34:56 pm
content: Amen to that.Genuine story: My cousin choked to death on some megablocks when he was 15. I suggest you all go and buy Lego instead.

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 03:51:04 pm
content: I could understand if we were talking about saving hundreds of dollars here or thousands. But a decent meter really isn't that expensive. And for a piece of gear that virtually never gets outdated, and lasts a long time, it makes no sense to get an unfused meter. my 2c.

author: paulie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 04:16:44 pm
content: Oh yeah... I forgot to mention how free some are with other peoples money.Also note the difference IS hundreds of dollars. My Fluke listed at $475. My $12 Uni-T has more features and performance and adequate safety yet 40 can be purchased for the cost of one Fluke. In a professional setting where hundreds of thousands for salary and property are involved a few hundred extra may be reasonable. Not the case in most of these discussions. People do like to project their own situation ignoring actual requirements hence a lot of what I consider to be bad advice.BTW all meters are fused, even if we are talking about super skinny PCB trace. Personally I do not even replace the glass fuses. Instead a hair thin strand of wire. Sure it blows at much lower current but I can live with the additional safety margin. I'll use an external shunt for real high current. IMO when you can get several complete hobby meters for the cost of a single replacement fuse on a "real" meter maybe time to draw the line.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 04:21:28 pm
content: It never happens to me/never happened to me/never seen it happen, blah blah blah. It always amazes me how people want to tell others to ignore safety advice and safety regulations just because they think it is silly. I have never been in a car accident, therefore they don't happen?The answer to the OP is that the UT33 series meters are a reasonable buy for bench top and low power testing. The 10A range is not fused and could cause some nasty problems if used in error. If it can be purchased for around $15 it is an OK buy. It is a disposable meter that will not last more than a few years with regular use.

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 04:31:00 pm
content: Quote from: paulie on May 27, 2015, 04:16:44 pmDifference is not 100s of dollars. I am talking about entry level meters. A $12 unfused Uni-T is not at all in the same league with a top end meter.Fluke 101 $53, Fluke 106 $75, Fluke 107 $89, Fluke 15B+ $98.All these are sub $100 meters and have proper safety specifications.edit: removed low end amprobe meters because there is mention in the that thread about meters not reaching spec, that they do not quite meet the safety spec.

author: paulie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 04:41:09 pm
content: Quote from: Muxr on May 27, 2015, 04:31:00 pmOk, so you can only buy half dozen or dozen of the Uni-T for the cost of one low end Fluke. Huge difference in features and performance at that level (not in favor of the high end ones).And again, all meters are fused, even if we are talking about super skinny PCB trace. IMO when you can get several complete hobby meters for the cost of a single replacement fuse on a "real" meter maybe time to draw the line.

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 04:48:06 pm
content: Quote from: paulie on May 27, 2015, 04:41:09 pmPCB trace is not a fuse. It might save you from harm but it might not. There is no telling. A fuse has a rating on it. A PCB trace doesn't.Anyone who's done MCU programming knows that loading a ton of gimmick features is trivial. What isn't trivial however is providing a safe quality meter at $12 price point.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 04:48:49 pm
content: A fuse is not an uncontrolled burning of a test lead in your hand from over current. Nor is it a trace on a circuit board evaporating and making a conductive plasma inside the meter possibly making an even bigger unstoppable short. Your assertion is a dangerous and ridiculous proposition that if followed could get someone hurt.A fuse is a contained electrical element that fails in a predictable way and contains the failure so that it can cannot cause damage to the rest of the device or the user.Facts, not rhetoric.

author: paulie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 05:09:01 pm
content: Quote from: Lightages on May 27, 2015, 04:48:49 pm"Facts are stubborn things; and whatever may be our wishes, our inclinations, or the dictates of our passions, they cannot alter the state of facts and evidence." -John AdamsIf you guys would like to believe a 1 mil copper trace will hold amps of current or is not "safe" please feel free to continue with that belief system. If this is more than basic religious or fanboy fervor or entertainment watching beginners spin/spend or maybe other agendas then little more to be said. At this point not much except copying and pasting previous comments so better to just drop it.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 05:28:09 pm
content: So a person got his answer about whether the UT33 series was OK or not, and you thread crap with rantings about elitists and your encouraging people to believe that parts of a circuit board should be relied upon for safety. You then tell people to stop disagreeing with and drop it?Quoting a person as if they were some authority on reality is rather silly too.Believe what you want, but understand your BS will get called. Noobs need sound advice that will avoid safety issues, not people encouraging them to to take unnecessary risks.And, who told the OP that he shouldn't buy the UT33 and he needed to spend 5 times more? Me? I don't think so.

author: paulie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 06:21:42 pm
content: Well I did say this would devolve into little more than re-quoting. So reviewing the thread looks like I may have been wrong about discouraging use of the product:Quote from: Lightages on May 26, 2015, 06:00:09 pmQuote from: Lightages on May 27, 2015, 01:26:11 amQuote from: Lightages on May 27, 2015, 04:21:28 pmQuote from: Lightages on May 26, 2015, 06:00:09 pmSo before this degrades further into personal attacks let me say I agree meters costing orders of magnitude more are indeed safer. The Fluke warning beep on risky settings for example. Whether this is worth the tiny fraction of a percent improvement in "safety" for a hobbyist is up to the shopper. More importantly I think spending big bucks just for the sake of spending big bucks does actually make a buyer feel better. In my culture anyway. Lamborghini syndrome. Personally for me I hate playing the sucker so...

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 06:52:40 pm
content: "Before" this gets into personal attacks? I think that is too late.Quote mining out of context doesn't make your point. I did not say don't buy one. I even suggested he buy 2 or 3 if the price was right.I don't know what your agenda is but you keep thread crapping where I suggest a multimeter might not be suitable for high energy circuits. I only try to educate so those who don't know have the information. I always try to suggest within the means of the person seeking advice. I don't try to push the most expensive meters on people. Get your facts right.

author: paulie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 06:57:51 pm
content: Facts are stubborn things. So are linked quotes where context is an issue. Anyway let's not fly off the handle here and just agree to disagree.

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 07:23:23 am
content: but we can all agree the UT33 is a cheap and small usable(but not accurate) meter for low voltage and low current circuits... but on the other hand it's a dangerous piece of "equipment" for poking mains.

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 08:08:07 am
content: Not just mains but also high current low voltage sources like lead acid batteries or lipo batteries.

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 12:23:13 pm
content: Quote from: Shock on May 28, 2015, 09:43:45 amI just stuck one of my UT33As on an extension block in the kitchen across live/neutral and poked it on ohms and turned on the mains. No explosion, no lead heating. Ohms range still works. Turned off, switched to amps, fuse popped instantly as expected.I don't recommend you do this, but it at least it is a data point.I didn't try it on the unfused 10A as that would be silly. That's what cheap shitty clamp meters are for.

author: paulie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 12:30:54 pm
content: Quote from: Shock on May 28, 2015, 09:43:45 amQuote from: Muxr on May 28, 2015, 08:08:07 amQuote from: rob77 on May 28, 2015, 07:23:23 amLOL. The naysayer brigade has arrived !!!It's absolutely amazing how quickly these old wives tales catch on. And how they do persist. Ignorance and superstition reign supreme. Do NOT forget to check under the bed for those wolves. You could lose an... ummmm... ANKLE!

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 02:28:00 pm
content: Quote from: paulie on May 28, 2015, 12:30:54 pmyou're boring paulie...i don't wish you anything wrong, but i wish you to experience how it feels when such a meter explodes in your hands thanks to your very mistake, don't get me wrong.. i don't wish you to get injured, just to be scared by the explosion.we're all human and we DO mistakes, and for those moments when we do mistakes we need equipment with proper protection.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 02:36:11 pm
content: Quote from: smjcuk on May 28, 2015, 12:23:13 pmSo why bother posting it...?

author: paulie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 02:55:17 pm
content: Ah... religion is a fascinating phenomenon. Specially when it involves technical matters on internet forums. Highly unlikely any of the detractors have any experience at all in the matter they pretend to be "experts". Or even bother to read posts in threads where they make noise. As mentioned several times IHAVEshorted car batteries and line in both ohms and milliamp range. Like smjcuk no explosions or airbag shrapnel.Quote from: smjcuk on May 28, 2015, 12:23:13 pmSilly is my middle name. Maybe not with my "high end" ($12) Uni-t meter but certainly can afford to play with one of the HF freebies. I have performed this experiment many times before by accident but this time under controlled conditions with video or photo evidence. Stay tuned.

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 02:57:51 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on May 28, 2015, 02:36:11 pmTo show that Armaggedon had failed to arrive I would imagine despite the grave concerns cited.While the lack of a fuse on the 10A range is not a great feature, there does seem to be rather more FUD than is strictly necessary on this thread IMHO.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 04:02:38 pm
content: Quote from: Howardlong on May 28, 2015, 02:57:51 pmThe problem is your attitude.Mains AC is nothing to be blase about. Even if there's only a 0.1% chance of death/injury, it's still a non-zero chance of death/injury.PS: You don't know if the person who's reading this's meter has a defect or not. Just because you survived doesn't mean he will.

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 05:12:27 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on May 28, 2015, 04:02:38 pmFungus, there isn't really any need for that!Re-read your own reply: it is 100% fear, uncertainty and doubt. The only statistic is one plucked from thin air.Respectfully, I was trying to come in with a measured response to what I'd read here on this thread. There were few, as far as I could see, real facts backing up the need for someone to blow $200 on a DMM rather than $20, other than fear, uncertainty and doubt.To a _lot_ of people (in fact I'd say it's the vast majority) it's the difference between making the purchase of any DMM at all. In that respect, I'd wager that they are actually safer by having a cheap DMM than not having one at all. At least they can measure whether something's live or not. That same person who is unlikely to spend $200 is also unlikely to spend a similar amount on getting an electrician out to check it for them just in case.People are welcome to choose whatever DMM they want, and allowed to make an informed choice. But that choice is up to them, and real informed facts should be the basis of that decision. By the same token, should we not all be purchasing the "Fluke 28 II Ex Intrinsically Safe" DMM at $1200 or so because other less expensive Flukes are, apparently, not intrinsically safe?I wasn't trying to make for a battle here, so please, let's have a reasoned discussion rather than a pissing contest, that will be far more useful to everyone.

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 05:48:46 pm
content: No one in this thread said to get a $200 DMM. What was said is, at least spend $38 more, since surely for $50 you can get a properly fused DMM. Personally I don't care if you think you're perfectly fine with the $12 DMM. I just think it's irresponsible suggesting that unfused DMMs are perfectly safe. That's all.edit: I am frankly baffled that we're even having this discussion here. A DMM is probably the last piece of gear you should skimp on. It's a piece of gear that won't get outdated anytime soon, decent ones are relatively cheap (especially compared to all the other gear), and it's something you use all the time, a good meter will serve you forever. What's the point in pinching pennies on it?edit2: cheapo DMMs have their place. Like the compact ones, they are ok in a pinch, and if you only ever intend to work on low voltage/current alcaline battery type stuff. Or in your car for emergencies. But for your main DMM, it makes no sense to get one.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 06:32:57 pm
content: Quote from: Howardlong on May 28, 2015, 05:12:27 pmThere still aren't any. Anecdotes aren't evidence.There's all sorts of factors you haven't accounted for, eg. the distance from the distribution panel when you did your experiment. Mains wires have inductance which will suppress large current surges if they're several meters long.Come back when you've poked it directly into the distribution panel on the Ohms and current ranges (poke it in after the circuit breakers, obviously...)Quote from: Howardlong on May 28, 2015, 05:12:27 pmWho's saying you have to spend $200?Me? I say use a tool that'sdesigned for the job. Voltage detectors are good/safe/cheap (evenFluke branded onesare under $20).If you've got one of those and a $15 multimeter then you're equipped for most household wiringandhobbyist electronics work.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 06:42:17 pm
content: I find it interesting that the poster asked a question about a specific series of meters, got a response with a warning about its limitations, and then the thread got crapped on all over by the anti-safety brigade. I recommended the meter with caveats and it devolved into this? All I did was educate a person asking about a meter and and the OP probably got scared away from asking questions here by the rhetoric and bickering.Again, the UT33 series is a relatively good meter for up to $15, not built to last, and does not have a fuse on the 10A range. Given its lack of input protection and the lack of fuse, it is best kept away from high energy circuitry. If you can get it for $15 then it is an OK deal. If it is over that then maybe there are better alternatives but that depends on the pries of other things in your country.In Argentina, actually most of South America, there is a citizen tax. The rich sell things at twice the price of the world, control importation, and so you are stuck with what is offered. So if the price is relative to the rest of things sold in Argentina, then get one, or two, so as to have a cross check. It is a budget meter with limitations.

author: paulie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 07:41:10 pm
content: Quote from: Lightages on May 28, 2015, 06:42:17 pmSo we can agree on something. Maybe a little less on what constitutes "high energy". I'd definitely avoid checking high current supplies or high capacity caps in anything over the rated voltage. And if it was over $15 (I snagged $12 bidding) maybe getting pricey. However not sure there are comparable products available in that range. Nothing on Ebay.BTW I did kill some meters during lunch break and to avoid more "thread crapping" put results under a new topic. Spoiler: biggest problem was the annoyingly persistent smell of melted plastic.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 07:55:28 pm
content: Quote from: Lightages on May 28, 2015, 06:42:17 pmNo arguments from me on any of that.PS: My most-often-used meter cost me $15.

author: ElectroNub
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2015, 11:28:00 pm
content: I have owned a UT33C and a UT33D for over a year now. I like the small size and small price tag. I think I got them both for under $7 each on ebay. I use them both often and I am happy with them. The 4000 counts on the 33D comes in handy quite often.I also have a UT136D. Cost about the same $7 and is the same small size. But the build quality is somewhat better.UNI-T makes cheap junk but it's pretty good in comparison to the other cheap junk available.edit: I have the 33A not 33D.edit2: I am a UNI-T vs mains voltage survivor, LOL!

author: Deathwish
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 08, 2015, 12:13:24 am
content: Rebadged ?.http://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-7770/digital-multimeter/dp/IN04414

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2015, 09:27:34 am
content: Yes.

author: Deathwish
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 08, 2015, 11:06:07 am
content: Price difference is only a few pennies but hey , same item.http://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-7770/digital-multimeter/dp/IN0441467