FLIR E4 - The useful information thread - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 04:53:05 pm
content: The reason for another E4 threadThe FLIR E4 thermal imaging camera has caused quite a stir as it can be 'enhanced'.I thought it useful to start a new thread that will contain useful information to owners of the E4, in both standard and enhanced versions.There is already a Review thread and a Teardown thread. The latter has become a thread on enhancing the E4 beyond its manufacturers intentions.I would like to suggest that this thread avoids direct review and teardown/enhancement posts as they are better placed in the above mentioned dedicated threads. Links to such threads and postings is fine though. This way the E4 threads will remain on topic.I hope this thread proves useful to new owners of the E4 and those new to thermal imaging in general.UPDATE: THREAD TOPIC LIST ADDED HERE:Useful LinksLENS protection / thermal window materialFOCUS adjustment toolFLIR Shipping transit timesUnderstanding and adjusting the Focus on a Fixed Focus lens (as fitted to the E4)Lens materials and Close-up lensesThe thermal camera development that lead to the FLIR E4 ?Serial Number recorded against calibration date and firmwareTripod Adapter for Ex seriesE4 3D parts STL file repositoryLens Care3D printed parts fresh from Lunevalley3D - Impressed.Lens Focus adjustment ToolAuxiliary Lens HolderEx Series Tripod MountFREE training material and e-leaning courses from FLIRExperimenting with thermal camera lensesActive Vs Passive ThermographyObserving the Moon and Sky with a thermal cameraBattery Charging options for the FLIR Ex seriesFLIR E4 Camera tripod Bracket Version 2FLIR E4 Official accessory DatasheetsTime line and detail of the FLIR I SeriesWhy are these thermal cameras limited to 9 frames per second and why are higher frame rates export controlled ?Ex series Temperature Measurement accuracy -IMPORTANTEnhancement of the Standard E4 by the User CommunityAnother Ex Focus ToolUSA FREE GIFT offer still valid -until March 2014External Charger disassembly & detailFLIR guide to R&D Thermography - A good read for those new to the topicFLIR 'Upgrade' countermeasure released todayClose-Up lens - Bi-Convex Vs Plano-ConvexAnother Tripod adapter for the Ex seriesInformation direct from FLIR on the E4 microbolometerLoss of access to stored pictures - solution

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 05:01:37 pm
content: Useful LinksFLIR E4 Review may be found here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-review/FLIR E4 Teardown and 'enhancement' thread may be found herehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/Please see the first page for direct links to key information in the long thread.Interesting Thermal Images thread may be found here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/show-us-your-interesting-thermal-images!/msg325713/#msg325713

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 05:11:04 pm
content: LENS protection / thermal window materialIn case this information is useful to someone else:A question was asked in another thread regarding thermally transmissive 'window' materials.FLIR disposable lens protectors for thermal cameras use the 12 or 25 micron shrink wrap plastic called Polyolefin, that is commonly found as the WRAPPER on CD cases.I bought a large roll of the plastic very cheaply. IIRC around GBP5 for 1mx20m.Additional info added:I purchased 25 micron Polyolefin from the following company and it works very well. I just tried a piece in front of my E4 and the camera sees through it fine.Bee Beautiful .....www.beebeautiful.org.ukhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20mtrs-Polyolefin-Shrink-Wrap-Film-25-micron-450mm-/350800488552?pt=UK_Packaging_Materials&hash=item51ad56a868#ht_1387wt_1018

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 05:13:23 pm
content: FOCUS adjustment toolAnother thread dealing with the teardown contains the STL file for a lens focus adjustment tool. The work was done by Taucher, so all credit to him. The tool enables adjustment of the lens for close-up working.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg328518/#msg328518As I do not own a 3D printer, I ordered the 3D print from this UK company:http://uk-3d.com/instant-quote/The cost was GBP3 + GBP4.99 for setup and post. I ordered two of the parts and the cost was GBP10.99 delivered.My thanks to Taucher for doing the hard part for me.UPDATE:I have just received a quote from another UK 3D printing company of GBP3 each + postage. They are going to print one for me asap.www.LuneValley3D.co.ukI shall advise the results of the 3D printing that I have commissioned when the parts arrive, hopefully next week.UPDATE 2:Georges80 has created a Focus tool 3D printing STL file as well. It may be found here:(message 1385)https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg330739/#msg330739IMPORTANT UPDATE 3I have just received my 3D printed lens adjustment tools and the auxilliary lens holders from UK3D.com.Maybe I was expecting too much from the technology or price point. They are very much what I would expect of a prototype 'draft' rather than a 'polished' product. For $5 each am not complaining but readers should be aware that the items they receive from this company are utility rather than beautiful. As I say, I may have been expecting too much from a 3D print. It certainly does not seem to like creating cone shapes with smooth sides !I have another 3D print (Taucher Focus tool) coming from a different UK company called LuneValley3D. It will be interesting to compare the quality to that which I received today.UPDATE 4I have received the Focus tool from Lunevalley3D. It has a finer finish to it, and appears better printed than the UK3D print. I will be using Lunevalley3D as my supplier of 3D printed items in the future. The lens holder and tripod mount will be next. I will post pictured of the Lunevalley3D focus tool shortly.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 05:28:32 pm
content: FLIR Shipping transit timesI am aware that some members of the forum are interested in the manufacturing to delivery time line.To help, I attach the details of my consignment as tracked by TNT.09 November 2013 - E4 unit s/n 639065xx Calibrated ( FW 1.19.8 )11 November 2013 PM - E4 shipped from Tallinn, Estonia with TNT EXPRESS service12 November 2013 AM - E4 arrives with PASS in the UK12 November 2013 AM - E4 shipped to me13 November 2013 AM - E4 arrives at my doorstepNot bad ! The Calibration is certainly nice and fresh.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 06:07:01 pm
content: QuoteLeave the guy alone; he's a helpful contributor.Thanks for the convenient thread Aurora; I can't wait for my E4 to arrive

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 06:54:45 pm
content: Understanding and adjusting the Focus on a Fixed Focus lens(as fitted to the E4)Fixed focus lens fitted to the FLIR E4 behaves no differently to such a lens design in a cheap fixed focus 35mm or digital camera. That is not to say that a fixed focus lens does not perform well within its limitations. It enables the camera to maintain acceptable focus over a large distance range through the use of DOF (depth of Field). To achieve this, the lens needs a combination of a small aperture and a wide FOV (field of view).Where a fixed focus lens fails to perform well, is in a close-up situation when it has been set for mid to far field focus. Some users of the E4 may wish to focus on electronic components and the PCB on which they are mounted. The E4 does not produce a focused thermal image at the distances required for such activity, i.e. close range of less than 30cm.There are two approaches to enabling the E4 to focus at the close ranges needed for PCB inspection. The first is to adjust the focus of the E4 lens until the PCB and components come into sharp focus in THERMAL ONLY mode. There is no point in MSX+THERMAL mode in this scenario due to misalignment of the two images. The second option is to fit a close-up lens in front of the E4 lens, much like fitting the E4 with reading glasses or a monocle! The additional lens brings the E4 to clear focus at a specified focal distance detailed in the auxiliary lens specification. Common focus distances ate 25mm, 50mm, 75 and 100mm as used in CO2 laser focus lenses.I will not cover the second option here but rather, focus on the first.The lens in the E4 is a right hand threaded screw fit, much like those found on PCB cameras and the like. The lens material is very different however. Rotation clockwise decreases the distance between the lens and the detector array, providing FAR FOCUS. Counter-clockwise rotation increases the distance between the lens and the detector array providing NEAR FOCUS. For focussing on an object that is near to the E4, the lens needs to be rotated ANTI CLOCKWISE approximately a quarter of a turn.It is highly recommended that the lens position is marker before it is adjusted in order to provide a reference against which to reset the lens to its factory position when needed.It is also recommended that the correct focus adjustment tool is used on the E4 lens as incorrect tools can damage the plastic and risks damage to the fragile lens material if a slip occurs. Spares E4 lenses are not an easily procured item. You have been warned. The correct lens adjustment tool has been designed by members of the Forum in a format that may be 3D printed cheaply. Please see the separate post detailing the tool STL file locations, above.If the E4 lens is adjusted away from the factory setting, it will need to be re-set if the camera is to be used for mid to far filed observations. In order to do this, it is worth knowing how the fixed focus lens works.The lens is set at the HYPERFOCAL point in its focal range. This point, combined with the characteristics of the lens FOV and Aperture permit a great DOF that extends from half the HYPERFOCAL distance to infinity. There is some degradation in focus at infinity and it is this specification that sets the HYPERFOCAL point. The maximum 'defocus' of a spot is decided upon and the lens designed to provide that performance combined with an acceptable near focus distance.To focus a fixed focus lens the user should set the lens to provide a focussed image at half the HYPERFOCAL distance and not at the infinity point. When set correctly at half the Hyperfocal distance the lens will be correctly set for infinity automatically by its design. Why use the half Hyperfocal distance? Well it is hard to find the exact HYPERFOCAL point by observation but we know the image should remain in focus until half the distance. So as the image is on the cusp of focus at half distance it is easier to see when observing a detailed object.The FLIR E4 is specified as having a near focus minimum distance of 50cm. The HYPERFOCAL distance should therefore be 100cm. I recommend adjusting the focus at 50cm with the camera looking at a target that contains easily discernible thermal features. This will enable the user to judge when the image comes into sharp focus. Some experimentation will likely be needed and this is not always an easy adjustment to make. I recommend that the focus is not set looking at an infinity target unless you are unconcerned about near focus distances.I attach the FLIR E4 Technical Data sheet for information

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 06:59:19 pm
content: Would a good test target be a pair of thin nichrome wires arranged as a cross against a thin metal background? Heat them up with a low current to be about 20C above the ambient and this will be an easy to use target.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 07:13:44 pm
content: Bravo V,I guess I asked for that comment and it was expected from someoneTo be clear, a large number of posts that I placed in the teardown thread had to be removed by me for very real and serious reasons, that are known to Mike, Taucher, and Dave. I do not feel the need to explain myself beyond that and what has already been written in the E4 Teardown thread by Dave and Mike. The teardown thread hasbecomea "how to hack a thermal imager" thread. My presence on such a 'hacking' thread created a problem that required post deletion to rectify.I may be able recreate the more technical postings in this thread as they, in themselves were not the issue. I do have inside knowledge of thermal camera design that can be shared.My intention in starting this thread is to provide a repository of USEFUL information to E4 and thermal camera users without it clogging up the Review and Teardown threads. The teardown thread has become a product 'improvement' thread now anyway.It is my personal view that anyone who wants to read this thread is most welcome to do so, and if it is of any benefit to them, great. Those who have taken a dislike to me, for whatever reasons, may choose to avoid reading my posts by blocking me in their profile. That is their right and in my opinion, their problem to deal with and not mine. With over 25 years at the sharp end of the Merchant Marine world, electronics, RF communications, 'security' and other interesting 'stuff', I think I still have something to offer other EEVBlog membersI often edit my past posts, not for reasons of 'looking good' or avoiding criticism but because my spelling and typing are less than perfect ! There is nothing sinister in editing posts so that they are more intelligible or detailed.I hope this post makes my position clear and that we can all get along together to the benefit of other members. I am a long standing member who posts only when I have something to offer or need assistance from the very friendly and helpful membership. Here is the olive branch to those that I may have pi**ed off with my posts and necessary post deletions in the Teardown thread, do with it what you will but do not waste my, and others time, with provocative comments please.I will NOT react.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 07:17:02 pm
content: SeanB,I am no expert on the test target but your suggestion appears to be a very good idea. I have recently seen a test target for focussing a cars thermal camera. As detailed, the focus was set at near range and not at infinity. I will see if I can fins a picture of the car thermal test target for you.I used a thin shafted screwdriver that had been heated with my wife's hairdryerUpdate. The unit is used for calibration and not specifically for focussing the camera as that is done at the cameras factory. The unit is a thermal source however.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 07:23:07 pm
content: I have a roll of nichrome wire that was the origin of the idea. I can wind a few metres onto a card and post it to you if you want to see how it will work as a heated target. It is basically a hair thin wire on a 0.5kg reel.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 07:43:47 pm
content: Not sure wire is an ideal target due to relatively low emisssivity and high reflectivity of metal (at least until you turn it up too high and it turns black!).Maybe a quick wipe with a black marker would help

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 07:52:34 pm
content: Dip in black toner and then warm it to 80C and it will be a close to perfect black body.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 07:55:15 pm
content: I am still trying to find the Audi target. It was a white board with a large black cross on it. Once I find it again I will post a picture. It may be Nichrome wire placed under thermally 'black' high emissivity tape ? For those unaware. Shiny silver has poor emissivity but may be made more emissive by coating with a high emissivity tape. FYI, Modelling enamel matt black paint looks grey in thermal terms, and is not true black as in a black source.SeanB,Thank you for your kind offer but I do have some Nichrome wire that I bought for making a plastics cutter.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 08:11:47 pm
content: I just found the Audi thermal camera 'calibration' toolIt may be found here but I will include details in case it disappears from view.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-Dealer-Service-Tool-Night-Vision-Assist-Calibration-Adjustmnt-VAS6430-6-New-/281192559068?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item417861f1dc&vxp=mtrDescription of tool:Accessory for adjusting unit VAS 6430/VAS 6430/1.The calibration unit VAS 6430/6 is required to supplement adjusting unit VAS 6430/1 and line laser VAS 6350/3 to adjust and calibrate the thermal imaging camera of the enhanced night vision system.The "enhanced night vision system with highlighting of detected pedestrians" enables the driver to detect, in the dark, persons in the front area of the vehicle that would not be noticeable without enhanced night vision system.Using images from the camera, the enhanced night vision system can prognose the trajectory of movement of pedestrians that are detected by the system.If a collision between vehicle and pedestrians is calculated, an acoustic warning signal is sounded to enable the driver to react in good time against the hazard.To adjust the warning range, calibration unit VAS 6430/6 is placed on VAS 6430/1 and positioned in the center of vehicle travel with the aid of a Volkswagen AG approved wheel alignment computer.The calibration unit serves as a reference heat source for the thermal imaging camera, which is adjusted according in accordance with instructions from a diagnosis unit.Items suppliedCalibration unitMulti-range mains unit 100~240V 50/60Hz (universal)Assembly and operating instructionsPart: VAS6430/6Description ends

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 09:24:31 pm
content: Lens materials and Close-up lensesWhilst working on video document cameras/presenters I discovered the use of a Bi-Convex lenses to give the units standard cameras a close-up capability. The lenses used are in fact a standard ‘+2’ to provide a focus point at the document table.With what I had learned from document cameras I purchased some ZnSe and GaAs lenses from China that could provide a 100mm focus point. These lenses were purchased to convert my fixed focus fire brigade thermal cameras to a camera that could produce close-up images of electronics.Lens MaterialsThe materials from which thermal camera lenses are made are chosen due to their transmission capabilities at thermal camera light wavelengths. Normal photographic lens glass is opaque at such wavelengths.Top of the list is Germanium. This is a very high performance thermal camera lens material. Lenses are made from a single crystal of Germanium that is both expensive to manufacture and process. The lens shape is cut with a single diamond cutter and then polished. The final step is the coating of the lens with high performance anti-reflective coatings. Do not be deceived by the lens shiny appearance at human vision light wavelengths. Damage to the coatings on the lens is to be avoided at all costs as such caused significant deterioration in the lens performance. The lens will corrode if exposed to oxidising elements such as salt water and not cleaned afterwards. Marinised thermal cameras are protected against such contamination. Fresh water will also cause damage over time. Germanium lenses are very expensive to replace and may place a camera beyond economic repair.There are other materials that have acceptable transmission characteristics at thermal wavelengths. All have their pros and cons but thankfully one is easily obtained and gives very good performance. The material is called Zinc Selenide , ZnSe for short ! The material has excellent performance bandwidth and transmission characteristics that suit the use with thermal cameras very well. It is also relatively inexpensive when compared to Germanium. On the negative front, the material is translucent yellow at visual wavelengths and cannot be used as a thermal camera visible light filter. Such is not needed when used as an auxiliary lens however. ZnSe is also quite a soft material that must be treated with care, just like any lens.The materials safety sheet does not indicate any health issues with ZnSe.Please read the ZnSe materials safety data sheet before using such a lens. There are specific safety issues associated with abuse or the application of acid to the material (think acid cure silicone here). This material is an excellent choice for cheap auxiliary lenses. Safety sheet attached.GaAs is another material that has properties suitable for use as a lens at thermal wavelengths. The material has a narrower bandwidth than ZnSe and a lower transmission specification. Its advantage is that it is a harder material so will resist scratching in harsher working environments. The cost of a GaAs lens is similar to that of a ZnSe type.A new material has been designed and manufactured in recent years to address the issue of the production costs associated with Germanium lenses. It is named Chalcogenide Glass. The material has been developed to a point where it may be moulded to shape rather than cut with a diamond cutter. This has significantly lowered production costs for OEM’s. The performance of the new material is excellent and in some areas, exceeds that of Germanium. GASIR is a trade name for such a lens material. This is the material that is believed to be used in the FLIR E4 camera. The material has been around since 2006 but is not to be found easily on the retail marketplace.http://eom.umicore.com/en/infrared-optics/blanks/As has been stated, there are other materials that will work as lenses at thermal camera wavelengths but some are very hard to source, very fragile or poisonous !So what do you need to give a fixed focus thermal camera a close-up capability without adjusting the units primary lens focus ?I recommend that a ZnSe Bi-convex lens is purchased for the purpose. These lenses are available cheaply from China and are made for the CO2 laser cutter market. It is fortuitous for users that the lenses also work with thermal cameras as well ! The lens specification is given in terms of lens diameter and the focal length. The diameter needs to be selected to suit the camera lens. It is not a good idea to select a lens smaller than the primary lens diameter ! It does still work though (with limitations). The focal length is the distance in front of the lens at which sharp focus will occur. I selected a 19mm diameter lens as that was a common diameter for filter holders in the 1970’s. The focal length I needed for my cameras was 100mm to give me an acceptable field of view with enough detail. Mike has carried out experiments with the four common focal length lenses. He has chosen the 50mm focal length as optimum for PCB inspection using the FLIR E4 camera. This makes sense as my test camera’s field of view is half that of the E4 at 24, Degree’s. Expect to pay around $30 per lens including shipping from China.I purchased my lenses from here:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZnSe-GaAs-Focal-Lens-for-10-6um-Co2-Laser-Engraver-Cutting-Machine-12-25mm-1-4-/321078811086?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item4ac1c9d9ceI also purchased the GaAs lenses for testing but found no advantage to their use in my application. The lower transmission specification is a disadvantage so ZnSe was used.A suitable lens mount is needed to position the lens in front of the thermal cameras primary lens. The auxiliary lens should be as close to the primary lens as is practical to avoid optical vignetting or anomalies.Once the auxiliary lens is in position, enjoy the close-up capabilities of your cameraI have attached a picture of my close-up lenses including their lens holders.In the picture, the large close-up lens is a commercial product by Inframetrics that cost several Thousand US Dollars. It is almost 60mm diameter and made from Germanium. I did say Germanium lenses were expensive didn't IIn front of the Inframetrics lens you have the GaAs lens on the left, and the ZnSe lens on the right.UPDATE:Georges80 has produced the STL files for 3D printing a lens holder to the E4. Great work from this Gentleman ! (Message 1494)https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/1485/?topicseenPost #3 in this thread gives details of two companies in the UK that can 3D print this lens holder for you. I just ordered two holders in black plastic. Cost was GBP3.55 each + GBP4.99 setup and postage.UPDATE 2.Mike did some tests using the ZnSe auxiliary lenses on the E4. He was able to provide detail of the field of view that each lens FL produced (message #766)https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/765/Table repeated here for ease of reference:From Mikes post #766:From some very quick tests I found 50mm was a good compromiseThe figures I got were :Lens FL / focus distance from front of rubber housing / width of field of view100mm / 80mm / 60mm50mm / 40mm / 35mm25mm / 25mm / 20mmAs FOV is nominally about 60 deg, the focus distance and field of view is roughly the same as the lens focal lengthUPDATE 3For those interested in the typical CO2 laser ZnSe lens spectral response, look here:http://www.thorlabs.de/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=4313Its not bad for our purposes but there will be some effect on the cameras calibration.UPDATE 4Please see this post regarding Bi-Convex Vs Plamo Convex lenses for this application:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/flir-e4-the-useful-information-thread/msg383035/#msg383035

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 10:37:42 pm
content: The thermal camera development that lead to the FLIR E4 ?For those interested in the origins of the technology that resides within the FLIR E4 you may wish to read Mike's Teardown thread and also the attached document that was produced by AutoLiv, a partner of FLIR in automotive thermal camera technology.Mike's E4 teardown thread is here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/UPDATEI have added another document to this post that details the lens technology and its characteristics.Lightpath lens brochure also makes interesting reading:http://www.lightpath.com/literature/brochures/LightPath%20Infrared%20Web%20Brochure%2004-2013.pdf

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 11:37:25 pm
content: Quote from: Aurora on November 17, 2013, 05:11:04 pmFYI in Canada Polyolefin is available at many building supply centers in a "Window heat shrink kit". It's used to create a dead air space for windows and increases the "R" value of the window overall. A typical kit will include 1-3 40x60 inch sheets and double sided sticky tape for 5 or 6 bucks.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 11:44:04 pm
content: Thanks for that information.The stuff appears to be in common use in the food wrapping industry as well. Thankfully it is nice and cheap.The FLIR disposable lens protectors are cheaper than a Germanium protector but still not cheap in pocket change terms. I have seen posts from users needing to fit new film, but the FLIR 'frame' design does not allow for such and is a sealed assembly. The greatest challenge for me is to make suitable frames upon which to fit the film and mount on the camera. I can see that I am going to have to get into creating 3D printer STL files as the actual printing by a commercial company is dirt cheap here in the UK.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 12:17:43 am
content: Why not cut the top of a baby cup (the non screw on kind)? That should hold the film without damaging it. Make sure it's dishwasher safe so you can use a heat gun to remove any wrinkles.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 01:15:25 am
content: There speaks a man with experience of babiesI have not had the pleasure of raising babies so never thought of the baby bottles cap. An excellent idea that I shall pursue. Thank you

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 02:04:42 am
content: Serial Number recorded against calibration date and firmwareSerial Number Calibration Date Firmware6390 27xx 20 Sep 1.17.7 Note: Hardware Version is E4 1.06390 2xxx 20 Sep 1.18.76390 3xxx ? 1.18.76390 35xx 30 Sep 1.18.76390 3xxx 30 Sep 1.18.86390 3xxx 01 Oct 1.18.86390 37xx 02 Oct 1.18.76390 38xx 02 Oct 1.18.86390 3xxx 03 Oct 1.18.76390 48xx 25 Oct 1.18.86390 5xxx 23 Oct 1.18.86390 5xxx 28 Oct 1.18.86390 5xxx 28 Oct 1.19.86390 55xx 30 Oct 1.19.86390 63xx 07 Nov 1.19.86390 65xx 09 Nov 1.19.86390 68xx 11 Nov 1.19.8 E4 V1.06390 686x 13 Nov 1.19.86390 688x 13 Nov 1.19.86390 ? 19 Nov 1.19.86390 76xx 21 Nov 1.19.8 E4 V1.06890 77xx 22 Nov 1.19.86390 7xxx 25 Nov 1.19.86390 83xx 27 Nov 1.19.86390 84xx 28 Nov 1.19.86390 85xx 28 Nov 1.19.8 E4 V1.16390 86xx 29 Nov 1.19.8 E4 V1.1 (H/Lines on visual image at low bat)6390 88xx 02 Dec 1.19.8 E4 V1.16390 89xx 03 Dec 1.19.8 E4 V1.16390 9xxx 04 Dec 1.19.8 E4 V1.1 (UI Crash/Screen Noise. Cold boot OK)6390 970x 09 Dec 1.19.8 E4 V1.16390 971x 09 Dec 1.19.8 E4 V1.16390 974x 09 Dec 1.19.8 E4 V1.16390 975x 09 Dec 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 01xx 12 Dec 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 0xxx 13 Dec 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 0xxx 17 Dec 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 0xxx 20 Dec 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 16xx 07 Jan 14 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 17xx 07 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 23xx 16 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 25xx 18 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 260x 18 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 261x 18 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 266x 20 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 267x 22 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 269x ?? Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 272x 21 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 273x 21 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 283x 22 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 286x 22 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 29xx 23 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 36xx 29 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 369x 29 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 3xxx 30 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 408x ?? 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 408x 04 Feb 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 44xx 29 Jan 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 44xx 05 Feb 1.19.8 E4 V1.16391 444x 05 Feb 1.19.8 E4 V1.1Not in Camera @ 05 Feb 1.21.0 RELEASED on FLIR web site - Built 13 JanCOUNTERMEASURED6391 46xx 7 Feb 1.21.0 E4 V1.1L First reported countermeasured camera6391 47xx 14 Feb 1.21.0 E4 V1.1L6391 475x ?? Feb 1.21.0 E4 V1.1L6391 49xx 17 Feb 1.21.0 E4 V1.1L6391 494x ?? Feb 1.21.0 E4 V1.1L6391 500x 10 Mar 1.21.0 E4 V1.1L6391 613x 25 Feb 1.21.0 E4 V1.1L6391 69xx ?? Mar 1.21.0 E4 V1.1L10 Mar 1.21.0 HackedNot in Camera @ 10 Mar 1.22.0 RELEASED on FLIR web site10 Mar 1.22.0 Hacked6391 7xxx ?? Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6391 84xx 11 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6391 85xx 11 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6391 851x 11 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6391 85xx 12 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6391 853x 12 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6391 86xx 12 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6391 862x 12 Mar1.21.0E4 V1.1L6391 86xx 13 Mar1.21.0E4 V1.1L6391 89xx 13 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6391 9xxx 14 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6391 95xx 16 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6391 989x 20 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6391 996x 20 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L63920xxx 25 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6392 019x 21 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6392 023x 21 Mar 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6392 17xx 03 Apr 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6392 21xx 08 Apr 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6392 29xx 11 Apr 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6392 4xxx ? 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6392 5xxx 28 Apr 1.22.0 E4 V1.1L6392 54xx 28 Apr 1.22.0 E4 V1.1LNot in Camera @ 18 May 2.1.0 RELEASED on FLIR web site - Built 16 May6392 85xx 23 May 2.1.0 E4V1.2LAs can be seen, there are four Firmware versions known to exist(Superceded - see updates)1.17.71.18.71.18.81.19.8A Fifth Firmware is rumoured to exist (1.20.3) but this has not been independently verified.Update: As the report of a 'countermeasured' fimware 1.20.3 is now old, and 1.19.8 is still being deployed by the factory as at 4 December, the report must be considered bogus. A possible Trolling attempt on the part of a mischievious person.It would appear that the latest confirmed Firmware Version, 1.19.8, was released on 28 October 2013 if the calibration date is used as the date reference. 1.19.8 is not available to download from FLIR at the time of writing.I will continue to update this list as and when new details are submitted by owners.UPDATE 11 Dec 13It is now confirmed that two E4 versions exist. E4 V1.0 and E4 V1.1. The differences have yet to be identified and investigated. Both versions are currently using the 1.19.8 firmware and remain open to user 'enhancement'. (as at 03 Dec 2013)UPDATE 05 Feb 14FLIR have just released firmware version 1.21.0. Built 13 Jan. No release documentation detailing changes from previous versions. Recommendation.... DO NOT INSTALL this update until more is known about it.UPDATE 05 Feb 14 follow upIt has been confirmed by 'Taucher'. FLIR FW 1.21.0 has been designed to hamper/prevent the enhancement of the Ex series cameras. See here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg382081/#msg382081UPDATE 20 Feb 14The first reported E4 with firmware 1.21.0 installed carried a 7 February 2014 calibration date.It is worthy of note that the camera had a Hardware version of 1.1L. The meaning of the L suffix is not known at this time, but could indicate a hardware change to counter upgrade attempts.Update:Latest known E4 with FW 1.19.8 is : 6391 444x 05 Feb 1.19.8 E4 V1.1UPDATE 10 March 14First signs of a successful hack on the 1.21.0 firmware. See the Teardown thread.New firmware released on FLIR web site ! Version 1.22.0. No change needed to hack.UPDATE 18 May 14First signs of a new firmware 2.1.0 built 16 May 14. Yet to appear in a camera.UPDATE 30 May 14First report of E4 with FW 2.1.0 s/n 6392 85xx. New hardware revision of 1.2L Cal date 23 May 14UPDATE:Collection of serial numbers and firmware versions has been suspended as of 5 July 2014. I will not be adding any more data to this Posting.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2013, 04:12:29 pm
content: I attach pictures of the parts I had 3D printed by UK company UK-3D.com.These parts are the Taucher and Georges80 focus tools and the Georges80 close-up lens adapter.Maybe I am being too fussy but I thought the finish would be a little finer. Any experts on extrusion 3D printing care to comment ? Is this as good as I can expect ? I believe these were made by a Makerbot2 ?l What I need is one of those clever laser 3D printers

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 04:20:44 pm
content: Focus tool received from Lunevalley 3D in the UK.Product is of superior finish to that made by UK-3D.comI attach pictures for comparison. The Lunevalley 3D part is printed in white and the UK-3D one is in black.Full disclosure:Lunevalley 3D provided me with the sample piece (in white) free of charge in the hope that I would recommend their services to others. From my experience with them and UK-3D.com, I have no hesitation in recommending Lunevalley 3D, based on merit alone.Other UK based 3D printing companies are available but, as I have found, not all provide the level of finish that may be expected. My future 3D printing needs shall be met by Lunevalley 3D.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 11:07:02 pm
content: A suggestion for a minor improvement to the lens tool - add a hole in the outer edge to attach a lanyard, so it can, for example, be tied int the soft case to avoid it getting lost...or you could just drill it..!

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 11:10:22 pm
content: Tripod Adapter for Ex seriesForum member Georges80 has created an STL 3D printing file for a tripod adapter to hold the Ex series.Details may be found here:Messages 1653 and 1630https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/1650/UPDATE:Georges80 has designed an improved tripod bracket that has both front and bottom tripod mount holes. You Can find the new version here:Message 1994https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/1980/New bracket file set is attached.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 11:19:51 pm
content: E4 3D parts STL file repositoryFor ease of finding, I am attaching the current STL files for the following parts1. Focus Tool by Taucher2. Focus Tool by Georges803. Lens Holder by Georges804. Tripod Bracket by Georges80These are all the work of others and not myself.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2013, 12:44:03 pm
content: I have just received a quote from Dale at Lunevalley3D for the additional parts that I am ordering. He has also responded to comments in another thread I posted on 3D printing providers in the UK.His comments:------------------------"I do try to produce prints that 'I' would find acceptable as a paying customer. One comment on the forum was 'it's good, but not perfect'. This of course is one of the constraints of modern low cost 3D printing. I could in fact turn up the resolution considerably more that I did for your lens tool, but it takes longer to print and as a 'tool' is less critical than say 'something that you might wear - or put on show'. However, it is always possible - please ask if you ever require that level of finish and I'll always try to accommodate"-----------------------------A good chap to deal with I thinks.The 3D parts cost quote from Dale :-----------------------------20mm Lens Holder GBP4.62E4 Holder GBP11.30 (if cost is an issue here - could be reduced slightly if strength is not an issue here - by reducing the 'cavity fill' percentage)New Lens Tool GBP2.79All subject to Royal Mail post charges at cost. (0.69 if it goes through the 'large Letter' slot or 2.60 if it doesn't!)-------------------------------------------In my view, very reasonable, and far cheaper than buying a 3D printer with all that such entails before obtaining a decent printI have asked for a Hi-Res print of the lens holder.

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 01:58:51 am
content: The holder I made was set to 10% fill factor. Still PLENTY strong and reduces internal plastic content to 10% - uses a honeycomb structure versus filling all the nooks and crannies. It's a value you enter into the Makerbot software when your run the slicer program to create the actual file that the Makerbot reads to print with.Basically the 3D printer creates a "shell" that's a few layers thick and then switches to a honeycomb pattern for large volumes. Works just fine, uses less plastic, speeds up the printing process and saves the sealscheers,george.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 01:20:29 pm
content: Thanks for the information George

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 01:22:35 pm
content: UK SUPPLIER RECOMMENDATIONUPDATE @ 26 November. I have spoken with David at PASS today. They have stock at the moment. Please contact David direct for more information.Details of PASS are included from a previous posting, below, for your information.I have just spoken to David Atkins at PASS, who are supplying my E4. I was just checking on the latest delivery of these cameras and have been advised that 30 are due in today or tomorrowGood news for all those waiting. PASS appear to have a very well stocked and reliable supply chain.I was also advised that if members of the EEVBlog wish to contact David directly, he is a Level 1 Thermographer and will be happy to discuss providing the same discount as provided to me on my E4 purchase. Speak with David if you have any questions. His direct telephone number is : 01642 626142PASS have dealt with me in a very efficient and professional manner so if you are in the UK and thinking of buying an E4 ,I can certainly recommend them.From PASS's point of view this increase in sales does them no harm and they are keen to help anyone who wishes to become the proud owner of an E4 without long delivery times !I do not work for PASS or have any association with them, I am just a very content customer.I am providing David's Details here as he is the best point of contact if you wish to discuss an E4 purchase and any discounts that he can offer you as an EEVBlog memberJust tell him you are a member of EEVBlog and can you have the same discount as Fraser.Contact details for PASS:-----------------------FraserShould you require any more information, please do not hesitate to contact me. Tel: 01642 626142 (Direct)Many thanksDavid Atkins – Senior Account ManagerCertified Level 1 Infrared ThermographerTest Equipment & Thermal Camera SalesTel: 01642 626142 (Direct Line)Fax: 0870 143 1869Mobile: 07792 742265Email: dave@tester.co.ukPlease take a second to see what other services PASS can offer and remember we aim to beat any like for like quote:www.pass.co.ukPass Ltd, 1 Alberto Street, Stockton-on-Tees TS18 2BQRegistered Company in England and Wales - Reg No 4457106VAT Registration Number 779714081----------------------------I hope this information is useful. When companies wish to offer special rates to EEVBlog members I believe in supporting them.Note: PASS are an authorised Distributor for FLIR products and may be found on the FLIR official distributor list under their full name of : Portable Appliance Safety Services (PASS) Ltd. here:http://projects.flircs.com/distributors/?app=BuildingFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 02:39:40 pm
content: Lens CareUPDATE: I have been pointed towards the FLIR manual as it has advice regarding lens cleaning on page 21:http://support.flir.com/DocDownload/Assets/92/English/T559828-en-US$AB.pdf(This may need to be pasted into your browser)I have read the guidance and bow to FLIR's greater knowledge (they made the camera after all) but the use of solvents like acetone make me very nervous. Acetone attacks many plastics. Please read the FLIR guidance and that which I have provided below and make your own decision on which carries the least risk. I have checked and IPA is a very safe fluid for cleaning lenses but it can leave a slight residue that should be carefully wiped off.UPDATE ENDSThermal camera lenses are particularly sensitive to damage by incorrect cleaning methods.The coating on the lens directly effects the lenses performance and removal of such causes degradation of the image.A Germanium lens should be cleaned with non solvent based fluids. I recommend the use of the standard eye glass cleaner that contains no IPA or solvents. Such cleaners are safe on plastic lenses and TIC lenses. IMHO you should not use the little packets of lens tissue type glasses cleaners as these can be abrasive. Use a Microfibre cloth.Manufacturers recommend that only an air duster is used to prevent scratching of the lens coating. I read of one poor chap who religiously wiped his lens with a lens cloth after each use to keep it clean. He wrote off a very expensive camera lens as a result ! Friction from regular rubbing of the lens with a cloth will cause damage to the coating. Try cleaning the lens very carefully with the spray on spectacles cleaner on a soft microfiber lens cloth. There may be a residue from your previous attempt causing the thermal effect that you are seeing.Be aware that the Ex series uses a new(ish) lens manufacturing technology that is not pure Germanium. It is s a composite 'glass' that may be moulded to shape rather than diamond cut. I am not aware of this lenses vulnerabilities.For those unaware. It is not necessary to keep your thermal lens completely dust free on this camera. You are unlikely to see any degradation in the image. Dust on the FPA detector is a very different matter though, so take care if removing the lens from the camera at any time. The detectors window is also quite delicate and should only be cleaned with clean compressed air.Please also note the 'air in a can' and 'computer duster' types of air cleaner do not contain air at all. They use substances that expand quickly when exposed to the atmosphere. Butane is such a substance ! The contents of some cheap air dusters can cause damage to optics, especially if the fluid escapes the can and hits the lensAlways use an air duster that is designed for optical use and is totally inert and residue free. I have used 'DRUKLUFT 67' Its expensive, but then so is the lens ! I now use an airbrush compressor that is fitted with two water vapour traps and is oil-less in operation. I use it for airbrushing as well so it was well worth the GBP60 I paid.DRUCKLUFT is stocked by Farnell.http://uk.farnell.com/kontakt-chemie/druckluft-67-100-ml/air-duster/dp/1004228?CMP=KNC-GUK-FUK-GEN-KWL&gclid=CNno_JnWgrsCFasfwwodZiUAYQMy compressor is an AS186 kit that came with air brushes. I bought from here:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AS-186-Complete-Airbrush-Kit-Compressor-With-Tank-/200600974912?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item2eb4bff640Its a decent and quiet bit of kit. I advise you avoid units that do not have an air reservoir and regulator.I also purchased a secondary water vapour separatorhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1PCS-Airbrush-Mini-Air-Spray-Copper-Pen-Filter-Moisture-Water-Trap-Spray-New-/370678148219?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item564e23ac7bThe CREATEX miniature air duster nozzle is excellent as it also takes a hypodermic needle for working deep inside equipment. I like it a lot.I will add a link when I find it againHere is the link:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Airbrush-Accessories-Mini-Blow-Gun-Blow-Out-Adapter-/161144807571?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item2584faa093It comes with a standard quick release fitting and I recommend users buy a quick release adapter anyway, so this will plug straight in.Very cheap and I advise you buy the quick release that has the adjustable air valve as this can be useful:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8-Quick-Release-Airbrush-Disconnect-Coupler-Air-Flow-Control-Coupler-Release-/200929745484?pt=UK_Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item2ec8589a4c

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 03:16:01 pm
content: 3D printed parts fresh from Lunevalley3D - Impressed.The 3D printed parts that I ordered from Lunevalley3D in the UK have just arrived.I am very pleased with the finish on them and will be using this company for my future 3D printing needs. I will post pictures under the name of each part.This company has done justice to Georges80's hard work designing the parts.Thanks again George

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 03:19:19 pm
content: Lens Focus adjustment ToolThis tool was designed by Georges80.The quality of the 3D print is good and works perfectly. The detail around the 'star' shaped head is complex for the printer to do but Lunevalley3D have managed it well.Update:Comment from Dale (Lunevalley 3D) on this 3D model:"the new lens tool did print a little strangely. I checked and it's the .stl file - the way it has been designed on the CAD - a combo of cylinders - whoever designed it must be pretty capable on the CAD software, it's a difficult shaped item to reproduce but remain printable - but if it works well 'hey-ho' "

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 03:27:17 pm
content: Auxiliary Lens HolderThis is an excellent design by Georges80.It was printed by Lunevalley3D and is a high resolution print. This takes longer to print but has a finer finish.The 3D print is very good indeed and the friction fit into the rubberised aperture of the E4 is PERFECTThe lens mounting flange is very well formed and the funnel shaped interior is nice and smooth.Pictures 2985 , 2986 and 2990 show a side by side comparison with the efforts of UK-3D that did not impress me. The difference in quality is obvious.You will not have any trouble spotting the quality part from Lunevalley3DThe fitted adapter looks very good on the E4 as it has a matt and slightly stippled face that is curved. Very nice work George.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 03:39:25 pm
content: Ex Series Tripod MountThis is an excellent design by Georges80.It was printed by Lunevalley3D and I believe it is a high resolution print. This takes longer to print but has a finer finish.Georges80 needed a method to hold the E4 above a PCB so that its temperature profile could be captured. The resulting bracket is designed to meet this need but may also be used as part of a standard vertical mounting adapter using an 'L' bracket like that used for mounting Binoculars on a Tripod.This bracket holds the E4 nice and securely and has the slot for a Velcro strap that holds the E4 in place. A great design that fits the E4 very nicely. No wobble at all !I elected for a high fill when making this part and it cost around GBP11 as a result. George indicated that he used a 10% fill without any strength issues. 10% fill would reduce the production cost. I wanted a high fill as I may tap the bracket fro machine screws and need plenty of plastic. And I like such adapters to be nice and solidThe bracket has an unthreaded hole for a standard tripod screw socket that George had in stock. There is the option to adapt the mounting method to a users needs and available parts.My thanks to Georges80 for such a neat design.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2013, 01:09:26 am
content: An interesting article on removing the layer lines from 3D printed parts using an acetone vapour bathI may have to experiment with this on the poorly finished UK-3D parts to see if they can be improved. I already have a nice large can of acetone and a PCB preheaterhttp://hackaday.com/2013/02/26/giving-3d-printed-parts-a-shiny-smooth-finish/http://hackaday.com/2013/02/26/giving-3d-printed-parts-a-shiny-smooth-finish/UPDATE: The method only works with ABS plastic and not PLA

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2013, 01:28:16 pm
content: FREE training material and e-leaning courses from FLIRFor those wishing to learn about thermography I offer the following links from FLIR.1. FLIR are offering a free book that helps with building surveys. You have to register but I have not received any marketing as a resultThe book is available as a download, in paper format or both. I went for both and it is an interesting publication. As has been stated, there are pitfalls for newbies....such as corner effect.http://www.flir.com/cs/emea/en/view/?id=493802. Various free books on different topics may be downloaded here:http://www.flir.com/cs/emea/en/view/?id=422413. The FLIR ITC training centre offers courses in thermography for both newbies and advanced users. Some courses are at the centre whilst others are free on-line e-training. I recommend taking the free courses as they will help users to understand the world of thermography and to get the most out of your camera. The courses are about an hour each and as they are free you have nothing to lose. There are no catches to these free courses.http://www.flir.com/cs/emea/en/view/?id=41758Most courses are on the US site:http://irtraining.inquisiqr3.com/UPDATE:Just found the FLIR Thermography Primer e-book. For those who might like to read it, I attach it here.UPDATE:"SIPO75" has highlighted that FLIR also have a YouTube channel that contains some interesting video's:https://www.youtube.com/user/infraredtraining/videos

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2013, 05:32:02 pm
content: Experimenting with thermal camera lensesFor those with an interest in adding auxiliary lenses to their thermal camera for close-up or telephoto adaptions, I have found the following on-line simulator to be education in determining what different types of lens have to offer in various applications.http://www.arachnoid.com/OpticalRayTracer/From my previous postings, readers may be aware that I have been using ZnSe Bi-convex lenses for quite some time with my industrial FLIR PM series thermal cameras. these lenses provide a close-up capability. It may also be seen that Planar convex can also work well in the application.I have considered building a telephoto adapter for my cameras to provide better distance vision. The requirement for such is similar to a standard telescope. I have recently purchased a planar CONCAVE lens for this application and I am still hunting for a large FL Bi-convex or planar convex lens to place in front of it. That lens is proving to be a challenge as it will set the magnification factor through its focal length and I presently only have 20mm diameter 100mm FL lenses which when married to a planar concave 20mm lens with a 50mm FL provides X2 magnification and the first lens diameter should really be at least twice that of the second.Anyway, have a play with the simulator and have some funI attach a simulation of the E4's standard (primary) lens and the theory of some auxiliary lenses for interest.Note: in the close-up lens plots, the object is on the right side and the camera primary lens is on the left.Note also that my industrial Inframetrics close-up lens is a positive Meniscus type with the concave side facing the object and the convex facing the cameras primary lens. It looks unusual but works well.UPDATE: After more testing, it appears that the meniscus lens works better in the E4 application if its convex side faces the target. This is likely due to the specific scenario of a small fixed focus lens in the E4. There is some minor loss of focus but the edge distortion will be reduced greatly in this revised operating orientation.UPDATE 2Please see this post regarding Bi-Convex Vs Plamo Convex lenses for this application:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/flir-e4-the-useful-information-thread/msg383035/#msg383035

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2013, 08:08:06 pm
content: Active Vs Passive ThermographyFor those unaware, I thought I would mention Active thermography as opposed to the passive type commonly used.Passive thermography looks at a scene and captures an image of the thermal energy emitted towards the camera. In this mode no attempt is made to stimulate the target in order to change its thermal profile.Active thermography is when the Thermographer does not just rely on the natural thermal radiation coming from a target. The target may actually appear very 'flat' in its normal state and the heat energy naturally radiated does not provide enough thermal contrast in the scene. In order to learn more about the target material, surface or object, the Thermographer hears the target with a hot air source to drive heat into its surface. Common sources of such heat are paint stripper air guns and infra-red heat lamps. Halogen lamps may also be used. Care must be taken to not overheat the target as damage can occur. There is a fire risk associated with heat lamps so these should not be left unsupervised.Once the heat has been driven into the target, the Thermographer monitors the thermal profile of the target using the TIC. As the target cools, it will reveal material differences, cracks and differences in thermal properties the materials present. If you want to find steel nails in a wal,l and they are not easily seen in passive mode, heat the wall and watch then stand out like a sore thumb !Other more specialised forms of active thermography use directed RF energy or inductively coupled energy stimulation to cause localised heating in defects so that they show up on the thermal image.An experienced Thermographer can learn al lot about a target by using a mix of passive and active thermography techniques.For more information on Active Thermography, just Google the term and there is plenty of information in the public domain. Don't limit yourself to the passive thermography domainhttp://www.visiooimage.com/en/products_ir_ndt_thermography_tutorial.htmhttp://www.infraredvision.co.uk/pulse-active-irt-inspections/http://www.automationtechnology.de/cms/en/thermography/ndt/universal-ndt-systems-for-customized-solutions.htmlhttp://www.netcomposites.com/ikb/browse/default.asp?ST=1&SC=1&S=7&T=737&P=..%2FTopics%2FBasics%2FTT+Types+of+Thermography%2FDefault.html

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2013, 11:45:31 pm
content: Observing the Moon and Sky with a thermal cameraI have been asked about using a thermal camera to view the Moon.I took some pictures outside a few weeks ago so have attached them here.The pictures were taken with a FLIR PM695 camera and not an E4. The 695 is equipped with a 320x240 pixel micro-bolometer and a 24 Degree Lens. It also has a X4 electronic zoom facility.In order to get a useable image of the Moon I had to set the electronic zoom to X2 which effectively gave me a 12 degree field of view. At X4 zoom it was hard to hold the camera steady enough to take a reading so I aborted that test. From the image you will see that the Moon is still very small, even with a 12 degree lens (equivalent). The E4 has a 45 degree lens and this makes it unsuitable for any kind of moon observation unless an auxiliary telephoto lens is attached. Such a lens would be very expensive due to the size of the required optical elements. A reflector telescope design could be used if the mirrors are all surface coated and no glass lies between the optical input and output. I have bought a cheap reflector telescope to experiment with so may try my thermal cameras on it one day.The temperature measurement for the Moon is actually the Suns energy being reflected off of its surface. The reading will NOT be accurate due to path losses through the earths atmosphere. There may be some clever mathematical compensation value available but I am not an astronomer.The sky temperature shown in the second picture was just for fun. My camera is specified to read accurately down to -40 Degrees Celsius. The reading from the sky is almost at the lower limit of the camera and I know that the temperature at 33,000 feet is around -50 Degrees Celsius. the lower atmosphere likely messes up the reading combined with other physical factors.So, can a thermal camera be used to observe the Moon ? Yes, Is it a detailed image? No.For anyone intending to use the E4 for astronomy related exercises, I fear you will need to build quite a substantial reflector telescope to create a useable image for the E4's 45 degree lens. It was fun having a look at the sky though. Clouds show up well. It will be interesting in the Summer to see if thermal layering may be observed.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2013, 12:18:08 am
content: Battery Charging options for the FLIR Ex seriesThe Ex series uses an easily removable Lithium-Ion battery pack, unlike the older 'i' series.It is obvious that FLIR intend the user to be able to change batteries easily in order to maintain productivity. This is an excellent idea but there is a 'fly in the soup'. The E4, 5 and 6 are supplied with a power pack that charges the battery via the cameras internal electronics. Whilst this should not be a major issue, FLIR's decision to use the Micro USB as a shared data and charging port is.The perceived fragility of the Micro USB socket leaves me cold. Connecting the data and charging plugs involves careful alignment and a bit of luck ! I have grown to hate the Micro connector over the past weeks of use. I am already working on a very compact adapter that will convert the Micro connector to a more friendly Mini USB socket that fits in the limited height recess of the top port surround.This week I decided that enough was enough and pursued the official FLIR External Charger. The cost is eye watering but when charging Lithium-Ion batteries I am less inclined to risk making my own charger or adapting one designed for another battery. A fire would be an expensive cost saving exercise !I shall review the charger when it arrives.For those with an interest, and for ease of reference, I am providing details of the battery used in the E4.E4 BatteryPt No. T198423 VKB 56621 702 097Li-Ion3.6V2.6AH3 TerminalBy Nordic Energy SRL.-No: NELI 1S1PFS08Made in ChinaFrom what I could see Nordic Energy do not list this battery on their web site. I also looked for camera batteries of similar design in the hope of modifying a cheaper camera battery charger. The vital information that I was lacking related to the charge management IC that the FLIR battery uses. Using another brand of charger without ensuring management circuit compatibility is risky.Sorry I cannot offer a cheaper alternative to the OEM charger but safety comes first with Li-Ion cells.The battery may be charged in the camera using the Utility mains supply (110V to 240V) or a Car charging adapter that FLIR offer. In the case of the chargers that plug into the camera, these are pretty standard in their design and a quality power supply that is terminated in a micro USB connector will work fine. I say 'quality power supply' because some cheap units have the potential to be poor quality and possibly fry your camera through over-volting or noise spikes.Interestingly, I have not seen any mention of powering the External charger from a car supply. I am wondering if the external charger 'pod' uses a micro USB socket and a standard Ex series power supply. The unit comes with a power pack but no pictures show it or detail the connector used. I will confirm when I receive the unit.Another forum member has commented on the similarity of the external charger (with battery inserted) to a Dr WHO Dalek. As its the 50th anniversary of Dr Who, that is very appropriate ! Mine will henceforth be known as the 'Dalek'

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2013, 03:46:05 pm
content: Read the flippin Manual !I have just learnt a valuable lesson and I am over 40 so its never too lateI sent feedback to FLIR on their E4 and the Tools software.Amongst my comments was a criticism that I could not edit an image in the Tools program and then save it as a jpg file rather than create a report using it.I received a very nice email from a FLIR chap in Sweden. He wanted to help me.I spent some time playing with the tools software to ensure that I had not missed the 'save' option. Nope, I couldn't find it. Then I read the flippin manual and my error became crystal clear....read on.....Here is what I have had to send to him today:-----------------------------------------Dear Tintin,An apology from me is in order. I am feeling very silly right now !I have been running the FLIR Tools program on my Sony Vaio netbook (Atom 1.86GHz / 2Gb Ram). It runs fine but there is a problem with using a 16:9 Netbook. The screen resolution is 1024x600 rather than the required 1024x768.I was not seeing the save option as it had disappeared off of the bottom of the screen. For some reason I expected to see the save option on the top toolbar or to be able to right click on the edited image for a save menu to appear.My mistake. I can now clearly see the save option as I am using a conventional 1024x768 4:3 aspect ratio laptop (Dell X300).Thank you for contacting me with an offer to assist. Netbooks are great for portability but they do have their drawbacks !Please will you advise Mr Teich that this was a simple case of customer non-compliance with the software's minimum display requirements !Kindest Regards---------------------------------------------Note that the save option only appears if you open the image and then activate any of the edit command. Logical but a little unusual all the same. The Save and close option appears on the BOTTOM menu bar.The moral of the tale.... if in doubtRTFMUPDATE:I received a very nice response from Tintin at FLIR:------------------------------------------Dear Mr. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxThanks so much that you took the time to provide feedback to us. It was greatly appreciated, and so much positive feedback certainly helps to keep us inspired.There is no apology necessary. We are actually looking on ways that it would work fine even on smaller screens for future releases. We will keep working hard to make your FLIR experience even better.EDITED DUE TO PERSONAL CONTENT------------------------------------------Tintin gave me a very kind gift as wellSometimes good companies reward honest and helpful feedback. FLIR is such a companyMike received a free soft case for his E4 and I received... well something that would have cost me $400 !

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2013, 06:32:49 pm
content: FLIR E4 Camera tripod Bracket Version 2Georges80 has designed a new tripod bracket for the E4. This version (V2) incorporated tripod socket holes for horizontal and vertical mounting options.I had the bracket printed by my favourite 3D printing service, Lunevalley3D. Dale gave me a pleasant surprise by advising that he had used my job as a test piece on a brand new printer that he had just installed. It was free of charge but he advised that it was not up to his usual standard, as it was a test piece after all. He also warned that it would make me giggle when I opened it. No worries I thought.The bracket arrived this morning and it was a very nice surprise. It looked to be an excellent print so I think Dale has very high standards if this is considered by him to be sub standard ! The reason for his comment about my response to seeing it....... well take a look at the pictures. You certainly will not lose it easily ! It matches my Cullmann pole mountThe finish is excellent. Nice and smooth, with no defects that I can see.I am very pleased with this print.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2013, 07:59:28 pm
content: FLIR E4 Official accessory Datasheets

author: bernroth
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2013, 02:30:40 pm
content: Here are some pictures of the lens holder and adjustment tool (by Georges80) printed bywww.beta-prototypes.comThey use a laser sintering method for 3D printing with PA2200 material.The print service is not cheap (15€ for the adjustment tool and 21€ for the lens holder, net prices without shipping) but superb quality and robustness of the items.BTW: It seems there is a small problem with the data file of the adjustment tool as already been noticed by someone else. It has absolute no negative influence, except for the eye

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2013, 08:17:57 pm
content: Is the lens adjustment 'small problem' the little recess/dimple in the 5 o'clock cylinder (the one with the 'recess') in your picture above?If so, that's not in the STL file so I'd put it down to a 3D printing flaw unless the service you used indeed claims it's an STL issue. The STL file (or original sketchup file) does indeed have 2 artifact flutes on in the lower main sloped body, but no artifacts or flaws (that I can see) in the lens engagement area.The laser sintering results do look awesome!cheers,george.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2013, 09:54:52 pm
content: Time line and detail of the FLIR I SeriesNot specifically the new Ex series, but an interesting time line for the FLIR I series Gen 1 & 2 that preceded it. I found it interesting so decided to share:http://www.optimumenergy.com/the-new-flir-i-series/An interesting comment repeated here:"The FLIR i-Series was designed by the FLIR Thermography division in Stockholm, Sweden, while FLIR’s high performance sensors are produced at the manufacturing facility in Tallinn, Estonia."

author: pomonabill221
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 05:34:16 am
content: Quote from: Aurora on November 18, 2013, 02:04:42 amJust to add my E4 (that I just received today 12/13...Sn 6309 76xx E4 1.0 cal date 11/12/13

author: junktronix
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 07:08:55 pm
content: And mine, also received yesterday - SN: 6390 88xx Cal date: 2-Dec-2013 Firmware: 1.19.8 Model: E4 1.1 - seems to be working fine as an E8.Quote from: pomonabill221 on December 14, 2013, 05:34:16 am

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 07:26:53 pm
content: Hiya Junktronix,Would you be the same Junktronix who sells some lovely Laser equipment on e*ay ?If so, your shop looks wonderful....full of temptation for mehttp://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ssn=junktronix&_sop=15&rt=ncI am tempted by the small Germanium lenses

author: junktronix
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 10:49:40 pm
content: That would be me. PM me your address and I'll send you a few of the germanium lenses to play with.Quote from: Aurora on December 14, 2013, 07:26:53 pm

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 11:49:45 pm
content: THANK YOU !That is very kind and generous of you. PM sent.

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2013, 02:10:31 am
content: Aurora,if you plan on using one of those Ge lenses with the E4 and the diameter isn't 20mm (as per the ZnSe lenses), I'd be happy to modify the sketchup file and generate an STL so you can get a holder 3d printed for testing purposes.Funny, I just looked at the Junktronix link you posted and the shipping location (per Ebay) is maybe 5-7 miles from where I livecheers,george.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2013, 04:12:00 pm
content: Hi Georges80,Thank you for the kind offer.The FL of 15mm for the germanium lenses makes them unsuitable for the close-up lens adapter. I will do some experimentation using them as a primary lens in one of my project thermal cameras and also investigate what they can offer the E4 owner. If I can use them with the E4 I my well need to take you up on your offer. In the mean time I have some scrap 3D prints created by UK-3D so I can experiment with those and some plasticard

author: Scutarius
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2013, 06:19:49 pm
content: Please add to the list2 OctE4 1.06390 38XX1.18.8

author: Stuey
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2013, 09:12:40 pm
content: Purchased from TEquipment.net (USA) on Dec 15th.E4 1.06390 68XXCalibration date Nov 13 '131.19.8

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 04:12:55 pm
content: Why are these thermal cameras limited to 9 frames per second and why are higher frame rates export controlled ?This matter has come up for discussion previously but I think all my input was deleted by me during my major self-deletion event.Thermal camera technology has been controlled due to its military applications. It is a VERY effective tool to help kill people (believe me, I know). It can be very hard to hide your thermal 'footprint' in theatre and the military realised this.Thermal camera technology was the preserve of the military, fire fighting services and industry. It was both extremely expensive technology and heavily controlled to prevent our enemies obtaining it and using it against our forces. Over time the technology has developed and become both more compact and available to the public. In order to allow public use the cameras used to be provided direct from the manufacturer to the customer after background security checks had been completed and a licence issued.In more recent years the US Government decided that thermal cameras should be available to a wider marketplace but with Caveats. The caveats were that medium resolution, high frame rate cameras could only be sold to persons who had been subject to background checks and who were not considered a threat to NATO. What was permitted was the supply of medium resolution low frame rate thermal cameras to the public without background checks. Export controls still apply to such devices in terms of selling or supplying them to enemies of NATO.The agreement on the international transportation and supply of devices that may form a part of a weapons system is INTERNATIONAL and part of the Wassenaar Arrangement. Europe complies with the contents of this agreement (Including Estonia !)http://www.wassenaar.org/http://www.wassenaar.org/controllists/index.htmlSection 6 applies (6.3 onwards)Note that required performance limiters are supposed to be non-removable in order to comply with the arrangement ! This would suggest that FLIR would have to hard code certain specs into the chipset as already suspected by Mike and others.There has been discussion on why a 9fps camera is OK yet a 30fps or 60fps is not. I regret I cannot comment on this but needless to say it relates to weapon system capability. I am fully aware that it is possible to illegally or covertly obtain thermal camera technology. That is not a reason to make the higher capability technology freely available to all however. Why make like easy for your enemies ?There was a recent auction in the UK for a 1280 x 1024 60fps weapons grade thermal camera. It was being sold by an official MoD disposal contractor and a mistake had been made. I advised the contractor of the status of the thermal camera as a prohibited item for public sale and it was immediately withdrawn. I am still amazed at the hostility vented on me for taking this action. Some people do not get the bigger picture and do not realise that some of us are duty bound to take action.I think it only fair to advise that I am not impartial on the matter of making >9fps thermal cameras easily available to all. If you are in the security & weapons systems industry you understand the implications. If you are not in the security and weapons industry, it can be hard to accept but I am afraid that is just life.There may be a case for relaxing the thermal camera restrictions but as many will know, changes in national security and military policy takes time and needs an adequate incentive, Such does not exist at this time.In time the Chinese will develop better thermal camera cores....but remember China is NOT an enemy of NATOBuying used E2V (EEV) Argus cameras ..... I know these cameras wellThe ARGUS 1 is the first Generation ARGUS fire fighting camera, recognisable by its yellow case and round image. It is a pyro-electric vidicon based camera with relatively low line count (around 200 lines) and low sensitivity, meaning low range. It was perfect for the fire fighter however and easily sees through smoke. The ARGUS 1 is low performance compared to later technologies and is not ITAR liable. Technical information on these early Pyro-Vidicon based units is releasable to the public under an NDA.The ARGUS 2 introduced the first BST FPA detector into the range. It is normally to be found in a black case with a standard 4:3 aspect ratio display. It uses a Raytheon BST thermal engine and IS a Raytheon NDA controlled device. The thermal engine is 320x240 30fps high performance unit. It is a very capable tool and performed well in the fire fighting services. No technical details of the unit may be released to the public.The ARGUS 3 is available in two versions....Blue case and Yellow case. They both use 320x240 30fps thermal engines. The yellow cased version uses a Raytheon thermal engine and IS an ITAR controlled device. I do not have details of the Blue cased units thermal engine. No technical details of the unit may be released to the public.The ARGUS series continues to this day and now uses Micro-bolometers. They remain a controlled product due to their capabilities. No technical details of the unit may be released to the public.I am aware that these cameras appear on auction sites....that is where I bought some of mine. Strictly speaking the sale of the units is not permitted but the sellers do not realise this. If you own one, it is not an illegal item to have. You just need to be aware that if you sell it, especially to an enemy of NATO, you could get into hot water with your own governments 'agencies'.In truth, old ex fire brigade BST cameras are of little interest to the authorities these days. More modern Micro-bolometer high resolution, high frame rate thrmal cameras ARE of interest to them.Also note that the ARGUS 3 is still supported by E2V. Faulty units often have dead thermal engines that make them uneconomic to repair. Be careful if buying one that is not shown working.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 04:21:57 pm
content: Military advisers have the personality of the Kool-Aid guy (Ohhh Yeahh!!!). They piss testosterone and just enjoy the sense of manliness that they get from saying they own technology that nobody else does. In regards to thermal cameras, a properly designed 9Hz thermal camera can adequately track a slow moving object (human) to within enough precision/accuracy to bring a heat-seeking missile within an effective blast radius. However, perhaps it would not take down somebody speeding on a motorbike or engage with another missile. It's all about probabilities.For the record, even 9Hz low resolution thermal cameras can NOT be shipped to Iran or other select nations.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 01:49:07 am
content: Ex series Temperature Measurement accuracy -IMPORTANT'Stefbeer' has highlighted a very important element of the Ex series specifications, namely temperature measurement accuracy andCAVEATSLook here:MeasurementObject temperature range –20°C to +250°C (–4°F to +482°F)Accuracy ±2°C (±3.6°F) or ±2% of reading, for ambient temperature10°C to 35°C (+50°F to 95°F)and object temperatureabove +0°C (+32°F)From this you will see that the Ex series has NO accuracy specification applicable to targets that are below 0 Degrees Celsius (+32 Degrees F). User testing has shown inaccuracy of several degrees on items at low temperatures and below 0C.Please consider this before trusting any temperature measurement with the Ex series on a target below 0C as an error is likely.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2014, 12:21:42 pm
content: Enhancement of the Standard E4 by the User CommunityThis is a record of the enhancements that have been developed and deployed on the standard E4 thermal camera platform.These are IMHO, NOT hacks and the E4 has not been hacked in the truest meaning of the word. Disabled functions have been enabled, and all without breaching any NDA's or releasing FLIR propriatary code into the public domain. The word 'Hack' is often used in such cases but I do not believe it to be a true represenatation of the activities of the membership of the 'E4 enhancement' team. They are not'Black Hat Hackers'It is true to say that FLIR would not have wished for their E4 to be enhanced in the manner that I will detail below, but this is just enhancement using the extant capabilities provided within the product, and public domain information (including FLIR passwords).The E4 has effectively become a Windows CE development platform on which experienced users are extracting added functionality.The latest version of the Enhanced E4, aka E4 Special Edition, offers the user more functionality than the top of the range E8. It is considered by many to be an E8 PLUS version as a result. The dormant capabilities within the platform have been awakened and significant value added for the user. The present version sits somewhere between the Ex series and Exx series in terms of capabilities.I will update this Post to reflect the latest enhancements to the platform, as and when they occur.Standard E4 SpecificationsResolution: 80x60 pixels using a 320x240 pixel Micro-bolometer and 4x4 pixel combining.Frame rate: 9fpsTemperature Range: -20 C to +250 CAccuracy: +-2% or +-2 C at temperaturesbetween 0 C and 250 CLens FOV: 45 DegreesLens DOF: 0.5m to InfinityStandard Menu functions:Image Mode:Thermal MSXThermalDigital Camera (Visual)Measurement:No measurementsCentre SpotColour:IronRaindowGrayTemperature Scale:AutoLockUnlockEnhanced E4 Specifications(Enhancements inBLUE)Resolution:320x240pixels using a 320x240 pixel Micro-bolometer.Frame rate: 9fpsTemperature Range: -20 C to +250 CAccuracy: +-2% or +-2 C at temperaturesbetween 0 C and 250 CLens FOV: 45 DegreesLens DOF: 0.5m to InfinityEnhanced E4 menu functionsImage Mode:Thermal MSXThermalPiP LargePiP SmallDigital Camera (Visual)Measurement:No measurementsCentre SpotAuto hot spotAuto cold spotCenter+Hot+ColdDelta hot spot-SpotDelta hot spot-TempColour:IronRaindowGrayBlue below 'x' tempRed above 'x' tempRainbow High ContrastWhite=hotBlack=hotArcticLavaDetect CondensationDetect Insulation deficienciesIntervalTemperature Scale:AutoLockManual (set upper temp, lower temp or shift both + or -)UnlockZoom (electronic):1x - 320x240 pixels2x - 160x120 pixels upscaled to 320x2404x - 80x60 pixels upscaled to 320x2408x - 40x30 pixels upscaled to 320x240Detail of how a standard E4 ,E5, E6 or E8 may be enhanced is to be found in this thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg309194/#msg309194The First post by Mike provides the relevant links to key posts within the huge thread.

author: pomonabill221
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2014, 08:25:11 pm
content: I can understand why the frame rate of the camera is limited due to military/security/other restrictions... and support the limitation's reason completely.BUT why 9 fps? What is so magical about 9 fps vs. 10/5/20/etc. fps.?How was this determined?Just curious as to the strange number.

author: Bovvy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2014, 09:04:45 am
content: Aurora, has the thermal sensitivity been improved in these upgrades?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2014, 12:11:43 pm
content: @Bovvy,I regret I have no equipment to test the thermal sensitivity. There was a theory that the difference between the E4 and E8 was the 8C minimum span on the E4 and 4C on the E8. I am uncertain of this though as a thermal camera captures the full 'span' of temperatures within its capability and then 'windows' the span that is displayed to the users. If only a certain number of levels may be displayed on the camera, it may be true that adding the 4C span has effectively increased the thermal (temperature) resolution that may be displayed.As I say, I have no way to test these theories and to be honest the E4 thermal resolution of 0.16C is still pretty good. It is as good as my PM570Update: I just re-read my post and think it important to clarify something.....Thermal Sensitivity is the ability of a thermal camera system to see a change in temperature, much like CONTRAST in an optical image. Sensitivity directly effects the maximum detection range of a target by a thermal camera. The specification of the detector and lens block effect the sensitivity of the system. The thermal RESOLUTION is slightly different. Whilst a greater resolution will improve the ability to detect a target at a slightly greater distance if path loss is an issue, it is more about the ability of the camera to display CONTRAST between targets of differing temperatures. This is somewhat different to sensitivity. If you have a target that has a temperature gradient, you will potentially see more temperature gradient detail on a 0.06C resolution camera than a 0.16C camera.This stuff can twist your mind a little but when you consider real world examples it makes more sense.If it helps....some thermal camera manufacturers describe the span and centre temp settings as follows:Centre temperature of span 'window' = BRIGHTNESS OF IMAGETemperature Span = CONTRASTA camera that can resolve more contrast detail will potentially show more detail in an image that has thermal gradient present.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2014, 12:27:34 pm
content: Quote from: pomonabill221 on January 02, 2014, 08:25:11 pmI guess they did the math on realtime missile tracking of moving targets and it showed tracking with 9fps as impossible.

author: Bovvy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2014, 12:52:01 pm
content: Thanks for the responses Aurora, I just wondered as I hadn't seen these figure mentioned. I will likely order an E4 from a UK source when I get back from the US. I shall report back when I have successfully applied the upgrade!The urge to pay $995 instead of £995 has been tempered by my uncertainty about getting it out of the US along with my fear of being questioned by their authorities. It really irks me that despite the camera being manufactured in Europe, it costs less in the US, even before VAT.Thanks to all and your hard work

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2014, 01:08:23 pm
content: @Bovvy,If I were in your position, I would buy the E4 in the USA from a Bona-Fide supplier. You WILL have support available from FLIR as their warranty is worldwide when purchased from an authorised dealer. The E4 is subject to ITAR in so far as taking it to a prohibited destination. If you are buying in the USA and personally carrying it to the United Kingdom, you ARE NOT breaching ITAR regulations. The UK is in NATO and an Allie of the USA. The E4 DOES NOT require an export licence. You need to provide the dealer with your name and address only. This forms a record of the sale to you in case of a need to track how it got to, say IranIts a bit like buying a TV in the UK where the shop requires your details so that they can send them to the Agency managing the licence feeYou are totally legal so worry not. Your issue will be whether you declare the purchase on entry to the UK. I must recommend that you do as that is the UK law but I know many do not. Bear in mind that the E4 comes in a nice case but that makes it quite large....you can't hide it down your trousersThe E4 attracts around 3.5% Duty and 20% VAT on import to the UK.Hope this helps.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2014, 02:13:21 pm
content: Quote from: Aurora on January 04, 2014, 01:08:23 pmFairly unlikely you'd be stopped on the way out, but wouldn't hurt to have a printed copy of the appropriate classification & regs on you. Maybe also either ditch the outer box or put a label conveniently over the "product subject to export controls"

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2014, 04:40:49 pm
content: Another Ex Focus ToolAnother design of Ex series focus tool has appeared on Thingiverse (found by Bonocr)It looks pretty neat but I have yet to get it printed so cannot comment on accuracy of fit.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:188896/#filesI attach pictures for those who wish to print it but I cannot upload the STL as it is too large. Go to the above url to download it.

author: pomonabill221
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2014, 10:48:59 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on January 04, 2014, 12:27:34 pmHHmmm... that makes sense taking missile speed/distance into account and the distance traveled over time.... but one determining factor for speed over time is the distance from target as well..... looks like alot of thought went into the 9fps number and not, for instance, 10 fps.Could be that 9fps is overkill and covers alot of different variables.Just interesting to me how that number was determined. Thanks!

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2014, 10:58:14 pm
content: QuoteThe government just picked 10fps because 10 is a nice number. So they declared all unregistered thermal cameras must operate under 10fps... thus FLIR uses 9fps.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2014, 11:04:35 pm
content: Pretty sure the regs actually say 9fps. And in addition to guided weapons, it may also be related to the framerate needed for it to be useful as a gun sight.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2014, 11:08:51 pm
content: Ref 9fps...... It also relates to technical countermeasures but for obvious reasons I will say no more.

author: pomonabill221
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2014, 11:17:40 pm
content: Quote from: Aurora on January 04, 2014, 11:08:51 pmThanks for you input and the detailed post in this thread... I do NOT expect you to divulge any more info that would get you in hot water... it isn't worth it!I was just curious as to the 9 fps limit.Thank You

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2014, 11:39:16 pm
content: USA Free gift offer still valid - until March 2014For forum members across the Pond from me...there is a long running offer from FLIR that you may be interested in. I tried to claim on it in November, but it is only valid for USA purchases from official FLIR agents.Here is the offer:http://www.flir.com/thermography/americas/us/view/?id=62227Enjoy

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2014, 08:06:05 am
content: Purchased from TEquipment.net (USA) on Dec 23rd.E4 1.16390101xxCalibration date Dec 12 '131.19.8Just sent in for my freebie as noted above. Can't decide between the Borescope or the Laser Distance Meter...

author: wilheldp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2014, 12:40:39 pm
content: You might want to hold off for a second. I just put in an email to FLIR to see if they will allow me to get just the extra battery and 12V charging cable as a promotional reward at the $9xx level. Unlike Mike, I'm not too keen on the soft case and I don't really need the online training.

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2014, 01:33:59 pm
content: Extra battery / 12v charging cable...meh...I've got a box with a couple of good sized LiPo's in it, a 5v regulator, and 4 USB ports for charging...whatever...But, I don't have a borescope

author: Jolly
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2014, 02:57:34 pm
content: A simple lens tool, just made out of hot glue and some kind of "bit-tool-holder". It seems to be quite stable.

author: menthurae
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 15, 2014, 11:14:45 pm
content: Just want to add my info... Purchased from an Australian supplier on January 14th 2014.Serial Number Calibration Date Firmware63910XXX 13 Dec 1.19.8 E4 V1.1

author: tmiller
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2014, 05:57:30 am
content: Hello all,Is there anyone on this list that lives in the US that would be willing to call me and help me through the resolution upgrade process? I have an E4 with 1.19.8 FW and Win XP on a laptop. I just need some hand holding to get this to work.Thanks very much for the BW.Tom

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2014, 10:41:12 pm
content: External Charger disassembly & detailI have disassembled my FLIR E4 external charger to establish the quality of the design.The rubber coated case is held together with a single screw under the ID label at the bottom of the charger. The base is a combination of metal and rubber. Construction is good and looks like it will last. The soldering is not the best I have seen and the excess flux has not been removed from the manually soldered micro USB connector. The unit is made in Malaysia.I can advise that it is a standard 3 contact (NTC) Li-Ion charger design as will be seen below:The main components contained within the charger are as follows (along with the common ID where known)1. 1L4001 = Linear LTC4001 Battery management IC. 2A charger with Timer & NTC sense input.2. MNAB ZC5 = T.I. LMC555 - Yes the venerable 555 (CMOS version).3. UL46 = USBLC6-4 TVS diode array for USB2.4. PZ = Not known but possibly BZB84-B33 Zener diodes5. G3A = DiodeThe data sheet for the charge manager (LTC4001) is attached. This details all that is needed to build your own charger, or to understand the FLIR design. The battery contains only an NTC thermistor of value 10K Ohms. No other 'management' is contained in the battery pack. It will have a protection circuit for the cell though.The input connector for power is the same awful micro USB type as on the Ex, but at least it does not need to be unplugged often. A micro USB car charger may be used to produce a car charging pod for those on the move. The LTC4001 is tolerant of current limited power supplies.For those wondering, the 555 timer just provides the low frequency drive to make the blue LEDs flash during charging.Note the charging contacts. They look like they belong on a Canon Li-Ion battery charger. It may be possible to convert such a charger with relative ease but it may need its protection timer adjusted to take account of the Ex battery capacity.The metal moulding in the bottom of the charger is a heat dissipator plate that is sinking heat from the LTC4001 via the PCB ground-plane. Not the most efficient design but it does not get very warm so appears adequate.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 12:15:17 am
content: FLIR guide to R&D Thermography - A good read for those new to the topic.It is worth downloading this guide from FLIR. Its a good read.http://www.flir.com/uploadedFiles/Thermography/MMC/Brochures/T559243/T559243_APAC.pdf

author: Petrolero
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 28, 2014, 04:28:00 am
content: Flir E4 received January 27, 2014 from Grainger in Denver (3-days delivery).Model E4 1.1S/N: 639117xxCalibration Date: January 7, 2014Firmware Version: 1.19.8Resolution mod successful

author: zcmayhem
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 31, 2014, 06:54:59 am
content: Just received my Flir E4. I have been waiting for 3 weeks for this item. The good news is that has aCalibration date of January 16, 2014Serial No. 639123xxFirmware 1.19.8Resolution mod worked great!!

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2014, 04:23:45 am
content: Quote from: Skimask on January 07, 2014, 01:33:59 pmFilled out and sent in the paperwork for the freebie inspection camera (ExTech BR80) on Jan 8, 2014.Received it this morning. Less than a month turnaround time. Not too shabby for a "freebie".

author: scientist
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2014, 04:41:41 am
content: Quote from: Aurora on January 23, 2014, 10:41:12 pmOnly 2 layers, as expected. Chinese clones in 3...2...1...

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2014, 06:47:14 pm
content: FLIR 'Upgrade' countermeasure released todayFLIR have released a new firmware today (5 Feb 2014). The version is 1.21.0 and it is available for download from their web site.'Taucher' has investigated the new release and has immediately noted a countermeasure against the standard upgrade path for the Ex series. See here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg382081/#msg382081The CRC algorithm has been changed so changing the related file will render it useless unless the CRC can be correctly calculated. Without knowing the new CRC algorithm this cannot be done.If you already own an Ex series camera do not install FW 1.21.0 ..... you will return your E4 to standard spec and will not be able to upgrade it.More countermeasures may be awaiting discovery in FW 1.21.0 but this change is enough to prove that FLIR intend to halt the camera ugrade path.

author: Sparky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2014, 11:23:31 pm
content: Quote from: Aurora on November 17, 2013, 09:24:31 pm@Aurora: Thanks for this excellent summary of IR lens materials, and the different means to achieve magnification and focus with the E4. This is a really great reference!I notice you recommend abi-convexlens, but the eBay seller you link to providesplano-convexlens. Can you describe why bi-convex would be better? Is it more difficult to buy bi-convex than plano-convex lens?I bought a 50mm FL lens from the eBay seller above, and had Georges80 lens holder printed (very awesome; thanks George!). The fit of lens to holder and insertion in the E4 is perfect!I was initially concerned that I had made a mistake and ordered the wrong (plano-convex) lens, but found that it works fine when installed in the holder (convex side out; flat side towards sensor).In use, I find maintaining focus is difficult --- depth of field appears very narrow resulting in a blurry image. I was hoping to get a bit better performance like georges80 shows here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg332281/#msg332281I wonder if I should adjust the E4 settings "Alignment distance" (currently > 3) or "Focus distance fine-tuning" (currently = 3) when using the additional lens for close-up PCB inspection??What is an appropriate way to secure the lens to the lens holder (mine is made of ABS plastic)? I wonder if the fitting could be made non-permanent, so the lens could be swapped with other focal length lenses. Or is it better to just buy several lens holders, and fit permanently a lens in each?>> Thanks for all the awesome information you have shared about IR thermal imaging!!!

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2014, 12:11:24 am
content: Close-up lens - Bi-Convex Vs Plano-Convex@Sparky,I am no expert in optics but can offer some comment.I originally discovered the use of close-up lenses on desktop presenters (document cameras). These units use a standard CCD camera core and a No.2 bi-convex close-up lens with a focal distance of around 40cm. The lens does not introduce significant distortion.I originally purchased 100mm Focal Length ZnSe Bi-Convex lenses for experimentation with my industrial FLIR PM695 that has a 0.5m minimum focus distance and a 24 Degree FOV lens. The 100mm ZnSe lens in combination with the 24 Degree FOV worked very well indeed.Mike did some tests and found that the optimum ZnSe lens for the E4's wider 45 degree FOV lens was the 50mm Focal Length type. That makes sense as it is twice the FOV so needs half the FL for the same close-up FOV as my PM695 when fitted with a 100mm close-up lens.The down side is that with the E4 fitted with a 50mm FL lens you need to be much closer to the target than when I use the PM695.With regard to the differences between the Bi-Convex and the Plano-convex is minor in this case. My professional Inframetrics Close-up lens has the concave side facing the target and convex side facing the cameras sensor. I used the 50mm FL plano-convex lens the same way on my PM695 in order to test its performance and it performed well. HOWEVER it was discovered that the E4's lens behaved differently and the Convex side of the close-up lens needs to face the target to get the best image across the FOV. Both the Bi-Convex and Plano-Convex lenses will work as a close-up lens. I have attached the light path plots for plano-convex and bi-convex lenses.My lens adapters are also ABS and there are two ways that the ZnSe lens may be held in place. Some users secure it with a thin bead on NON ACIDIC adhesive. Acid cure glues are a no-no with ZnSe ! Others have used a soldering iron to slightly melt the edges of the lens holder to create 'claws' like those used to retain gems in jewellery.Depth of field will be a function of the interaction of the close-up lens and the E4's built in fixed focus lens. I regret that I know of no way to improve the DOF. I use the E4 on a tripod so the DOF is not such an issue for me.I recommend having several lens adapters made and fixing the lens in place. I have considered making a lens adapter that takes my 19mm and 20mm photographic lens holders. These could then be changed out in the same way as on a normal camera lens. I have not bothered to date though.Some usefull comment on Plano Convex Vs Bi-Convex may be found here:http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=318310A quote from the thread:"If your 'telescope' is being used for image relay of small, nearby objects about a focal distance away from the lenses:Plano-convex is fine, but the flat surfaces should now be facing outward. If the magnification of this image relay system is close to 1:1, then the use of biconvex lenses will eliminate most abberation. If the magnification is far from 1:1, then biconvex lenses will make things worse.In any case, orientation and use of plano-convex vs. biconvex lenses won't matter terribly much. You will still form a fine image so long as the lenses are the correct distance apart. These details only affect small distortions in the image. "Note my comments on how the plano-convex does not work well with the convex side facing the camera lens. It should work OK but there is something about the E4 lens specification (FOV ?) that messes things up. (You get defocussing around the image periphery)

author: iDevice
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2014, 09:25:37 pm
content: Quote from: Aurora on February 07, 2014, 12:11:24 amWith the 3D printed lens holder designs you can find on this forum, there is no need to fix the lens.The Chinese CO2 laser cutter lenses you can get from ebay just clip in nicely and firmly, so no risk of glue damage.

author: Sparky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2014, 01:45:29 am
content: Quote from: iDevice on February 07, 2014, 09:25:37 pmHmmm...this is not the case for me. I used georges80 design, with 20mm diameter lens (from the Chinese eBay seller), and the lens is a loose fit --- no clip in; the lens will drop straight out.What design lens holder and diameter lens did you use?

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2014, 04:18:37 am
content: 3d printers aren't "precision" instrumentsSo, you will get different results with different printers (and/or phase of the moon). Remember that the lens holder I designed was to specifically handle the lens I had on hand (via ebay) AND to be printed with the makerbot at work. I tweaked things to make it fit nicely - but no guarantee that all prints from my files will create a 'perfect' fit...My main goal was a good friction fit in the E4 and to play it safe with the lens opening so that worse case a touch with a soldering iron would fix the lens in place. Since I printed with PLA it is easy to melt the plastic with a soldering iron that is only at 70 - 80C.cheers,george.

author: Sparky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2014, 04:59:59 am
content: Quote from: georges80 on February 08, 2014, 04:18:37 amThanks,George! Your lens holder was my first-ever 3D printed part!It was done at a local shop and I didn't know what to expect, but the quality was very good and I was totally satisfied with it. The friction fit with the E4 is perfect! It is snug and gives a confident feeling that it is not going to fall out.I'm thinking how I might be swap in lenses and so I might make some tweaks to the design and see how it goes for my application. If I do change anything, I'll post the updated files and pictures hereThanks for your comments!Cheers,Sparky

author: Sparky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2014, 05:28:12 am
content: Quote from: Aurora on February 07, 2014, 12:11:24 am@Aurora: Thank you so much for the thoughtful reply to my questions! You went into some detail and I appreciate it. It's good to know I figured out the "correct" way to orient the close-up lens (convex facing the target)I wonder if cyanoacrylate (aka "superglue") is a non-acidic adhesive? Is it safe to use on ZnSe lenses? Even if so, it would be a rather permanent solution, so I'm still considering some kind of lens adapter, that is perhaps threaded on the outside and can screw into the ABS plastic lens holder which fits to the E4.I wonder where I would get a 20mm lens adapter like you show in the picture "Close-up lenses.JPG" inthis post? It looks like they have a threaded section on the outside of the adapter. I'm tempted to try some changes to Georges already excellent design to accommodate a small lens adapter as you've shown. I'd get the ABS plastic tapped with the appropriate thread.Do I need to be concerned much with the distance the close-up lens is placed from the E4 optics? I presume closer is better to allow more IR to hit the detector (greater solid angle seen by the detector for closer lens placement).re: Depth-of-Field: I know in photography the DOF can be changed by the lens aperture; smaller apertures yield greater DOF. But, even if a way to reduce the aperture was conceived, I've no idea how it could affect this IR camera --- could reduce SNR, introduce vignetting, and presumably "exposure time" and/or sensor sensitivity would have to change to alleviate the reduced aperture..... Seems it could be more trouble than is worth --- a tripod +georges80already excellent E4 tripod adapters might be the way to go!!Please let me know where I could search for the 20mm lens adapters --- I think that is my next stepCheers!Sparky

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2014, 11:02:43 am
content: @Sparky,It is a pleasure to help.With regard to lens holders, when I first started looking at CO2 cutter lenses I went for a 19mm diameter lens as I had already investigated the availability of photographic lens/filter holders. I had found that 19mm FILTER holders were used on cameras in the 1960s (?) These early filter holders either screwed into the cameras fine threaded filter mount or were a push fit onto the front of the lens.The 19mm fliter holders were perfect for my application, but they are not that common these days. All of mine came from e*ay and cost between $3 and $7, which I though was reasonable considering the time it would take to make such a holder. You have to search for "filter holder" and not lens holder. Mine were made by BDB. When I could not find any more 19mm holders I started looking for 20mm ones and found some. I then ordered 20mm lenses from China instead of the 19mm ones I had been ordering. The 'output' thread diameter varies with these holders depending upon the camera that they were designed to mount. A thread diameter of 24.5mm is common and very close to a 'C' mount, with the same thread pitch used. I also found some 'push fit' versions that just clip onto the outside of a specified diameter of lens. These would be a better option for you as you could print an adapter with the required raised 'lip' for the lens holder to push on to and you avoid the hassle of having a fine, fragile thread cut into the adapter.With regard to how close the auxilliary lens is positioned to the primary in the camera. It is best to fit the lens as close to the primary as possible. The E4 has a very wide field of view and Georges80 designed the adapter to position the auxilliary lens close enough to the primary without interfering with the dust shutter. It may be possible to move the lens closer to the promary but whether that will improve performance, I cannot say. Experimentation with a carboard ring forming a lens mount would be a simple test of such an idea.On the matter of DOF....this is where I show my lack of knowledge. I know that a small aperture, fixed focus lens, as fitted to the E4, provides excellent depth of field from 0.5m to infinity. I also know that the close-up lens has a specified focal length which in our application will be the point of focus for the 'target' being observed. I do not know why the DOF is so small when using the auxilliary lens, but presume that it is similar to when using a microscope... where DOF is often very small.Further thought on DOF...... We are effectively fitting a new lens structure informt of one optimised to large DOF. Out auxilliary lens is DESIGNED to provide sharp pocus at a specific distance from the lens. In our usage as a close-up lens we are taking the image at a close distance and bending the 'light' through the lens to bring it onto the primary lens axis so that it "appears" to teh promary lens as 'light' coming from a distance awat (parallel beams ?) The auxilliary lens will only produce a focussed image at the specified FL and as these lenses were designed to be used to focus a laser beam, the point of focus will have a small DOF ? Sounds logcal to me but whetehr true is another matterWe are effectively using these lenses in reverse to their original application which was to take parallel light beams and converge them onto a very small area on a target. I will do some tests with my Inframetrics inductrial close-up lens as that is designed for the task. It is worthy of note that the Inframetrics lens is a Meniscus type and not Plano Convex. The concave side faces the target and the convex side faces the primary lens. That lens has a 6 inch FL. and was designed to be placed on the front of a X3 telescope lens that is presently on its way to me from the USA.

author: Sparky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2014, 08:45:35 pm
content: @Aurora: Thanks again for the follow-up and lots of info about lens/filter holders.I have done a little eBay searching using the information from you, and there seems limited 20mm diameter lens/filter holders available these days. I did fine one eBay seller,here, who seems to have the 'push fit' version that you mentioned. They are sold 'used' though --- just whatever stock happens to be available. It is cheap and might work well for me --- presumably I could request a few that are the same type. But, might be hard to come by these parts again in the future...I also had a look for lens mounts from industry optical companies, and managed to turn up a few options:Edmund Optics, thin lens C mount(pic attached)Also,ThorLabs(two PDF attached); one version has threaded outside with two retaining rings and other has built-in "lens shelf" with one retaining ring, but not threaded on the outside...which makes it a little difficult to use for my application. Hmm...why the externally threaded one doesn't have built-in lens shelf?The ThorLabs holders are < $20 USD, which is cheaper for me than 3D printing georges80 lens holder ($20 "set up" + $16 "print").But, the external threading on these parts is rather fine and may not be ideal for the ABS. However, could have a "not so fine" thread cut into the ThorLabs holder that has no external thread. It might work well.What do you think of these options?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2014, 08:55:43 pm
content: $36 for the 3D printThat is VERY expensive. My printer in the UK is LuneValley3D.He creates my lens holders in excellent black ABS plastic for GBP4 ($6) each with no 'set up' cost. Just postage to add. The items are light so not expensive to post. Payment is by Paypal.I have provided his details in this thread. Email him and I feel sure he will send to the USA.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/flir-e4-the-useful-information-thread/msg339308/#msg339308Also, consider how many auxiliary lenses you will have. Remember, these lenses are for close-up work only so you will likely have FL's of 50mm, 75mm and 100mm as those are three easily available CO2 lenses. FL's greater than 100mm are rare to find on e*ay. You cannot make a telephoto lens with a single lens element. So you will basically need only 3 lens adapters which would cost you approx US$18 + postage from the UK.That is the route that I would take take.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2014, 09:13:07 pm
content: Another Tripod adapter for the Ex seriesAnother tripod adapter has been designed for 3D printing. This differs in design to that of Georges80 in that it surrounds the handle completely. Details of the STL file and required hardware is provided via the included link. Credit to 'ee.jcesar' for the design.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg383997/#msg383997

author: Scutarius
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2014, 11:32:10 pm
content: I am not an expert designing parts, it has been designed in Autodesk Fusion 360, used it under your own risk, Don't forget to glue the 1/4 to 3/8 Screw Adapter!

author: wilheldp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2014, 11:45:27 pm
content: Jeez...$36 for 15 cents worth of ABS. If anybody wants some E4 lens holders, I'll print them for you. We'll put the price at $5 + shipping. Have your choice of color between black, white, red and green, which is what I have right now.

author: iDevice
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2014, 02:33:17 pm
content: Quote from: Sparky on February 08, 2014, 01:45:29 amI used georges80 file and had it printed by LuneValley3D in UK.My first lens was a f:50mm by 20mm diameter from the usual Chinese shop on ebay.LuneValley3D is probably a small one person business as they are quite slow and not very responsive but print quality is excellent and the lens did snap tightly in, I had to really push hard to get it to fit in.Unfortunately, I soon discovered that 50mm is much too close-up for many uses, so I reprinted the same file a second time via LuneValley3D (was even slower but they apologized, putting it on too much success). The quality of the print was a bit lower, but the second lens (a 100mm this time) did fit in as tightly as with the first combo.So, maybe printing via LuneValley3D is the key here, I don't know, but I can say that even though communication is sometime slow, when they eventually deliver, the prints are very good, actually better that you would expect from a filament based 3D printer. (they are using ReplicatorII's)

author: Sparky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2014, 07:33:56 pm
content: ThanksAuroraandiDevicefor your further comments.@Aurora: It is clear now that I significantly overpaid for the 3D print. At the time, I really did not understand why there is a "setup fee", since there is not even a need to convert from the STL file or anything... Now I realize many people do not charge such a fee. In the short term, I will probably use LuneValley3D, until I find an alternative.You are right, I already have the 50mm FL lens, so I only plan to get the 75mm and 100mm. I will take your advice and simply get two more of georges80 lens holder made --- it will be the cheapest and simplest solution. I have already ordered the lenses.@iDevice: My experience is very similar to yours --- I had got the 50mm FL lens, but found occasions that it is too close (sometimes due to obstructions on the circuit, or a housing of the circuit board, prevent getting the camera close), so I am getting the longer focal lengths to accommodate these uses.Also, it's time to mount the E4 on a tripod, so I will try georges80 e4_holder_v2. At the moment I am thinking to have a 3/8"-16 to 1/4"-20 adapter (see pic attached) inserted in the holder. Did anyone do it differently? I wonder if anyone used a 1/4"-20 thread directly into the holder? Will appreciate to hear peoples experiences!Cheers!

author: g137556s
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 07:41:53 pm
content: Does anyone know the highest serial number that I should look for on an E4 for the desirable firmware?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 07:59:20 pm
content: Please look at page 2 of this thread for your answer

author: tmiller
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 09:38:37 pm
content: Just for completeness,E4 v1.06390686xCal 13 Nov 13 EstoniaFW 1.19.8

author: Whizbang
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 09, 2014, 11:26:44 pm
content: I have an E4 with FW 1.19.8. I did the basic update/mod and it improved my resolution, but I want all the bells and whistles. Mostly I want the digital zoom and additional color pallets but my update didn't "unlock" those features. I went through the blog, but there is a lot of info here and I think I am reading over it and missing it.Since I already have completed the basic update (I used the download e4hack3C), what are my next steps to "complete" the upgrade and get all of the features?Do I have to uninstall the mod? Can anyone point me in the right direction or post directions. I don't want the rndis update. I just want the different color pallets, zoom and what ever else I can get without extensive hacking.Thanks,Whizbang

author: all_repair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 12:26:45 am
content: Quote from: wilheldp on February 08, 2014, 11:45:27 pmI would have taken up your offer if I did not aleady make a few from my hot glue gun. I used 2 circular cap, bigger one that fix the E4 and a smaller that is of diameter 20mm, pumped a lot of hot glue to form the holder. A long nut is installed for easy removal. Remember to paste a layer of aluminum foil or mylar tape to the castings for easy removal of the lens holder when making the holder.

author: ErchAngel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 09:44:29 pm
content: Quote from: Whizbang on March 09, 2014, 11:26:44 pmTo my knowledge the only way to do the menu mod is via RNDIS. Follow these instructions, and you should be good to go:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg366426/#msg366426Worked fine for me, just note that it won't work in Windows 8.1 (didn't for me anyway), had to use Windows 7.

author: Whizbang
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 12:34:03 am
content: Quote from: ErchAngel on March 10, 2014, 09:44:29 pmI followed nearly identical instructions using the e4hack3 files (RNDIS). I reviewed the flashfs\system\appcore.d\config.d\e8.cfg to compare and see if i missed anything regarding the zoom and according to the instructions posted at the link above I have it right. My script reads....caps.config.image.zoom.enabled bool truebut I have no zoom icon. Is there something else i need to check? Or what would you recommend?Thanks.

author: Sparky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 01:15:17 am
content: I received an ABS print of the E4 holder design bygeorges80. It's nice and solid --- makes a secure grip around the handle of the E4. Excellent designGeorge! I also got a couple of 3/16" to 1/4" threaded adapters, thinking they would be suitable to mount into the holder and allow me to attach my tripod plate.However, as you'll note in the pictures attached, the threaded section of the 3/16" adapter is barely a couple of threads long! The adapter and tripod plate are made for attaching to the body of cameras, which accommodate only small length screws.I do not think the threaded adapter is going to work well. Instead, I am considering making an aluminium bracket to fit my tripod (instead of using the plate shown in the photos), and put a 3/16" screw in it directly.How have other people mounted their E4 holders to their tripods?Best!

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 09:59:42 am
content: I had to import the longer threaded inserts that Georges80 used. I could not find them in the UK.An alternative that I considered was a thick aluminium plate that would be screwed to the adapter. The aluminium plate would have a 1/4" 20TPI tripod thread in it to take the tripod screw. This approach would spread the load over several well spaced screws, rather than relying on the single threaded insert.....BUT I was uncertain how much solid plastic would exist on the plastic mount into which to tap the plate securing screws. The 3D printed bracket is actually a honeycomb design with a thin solid vaneer on its surface.. Hence why I went for Georges solution in the end. The inserts came from the USA and are the type used in modelleing, with razor sharp external cutting threads. Mine are made from brass and designed for use in plastics but were still a challenge to fit !Aurora

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 11:42:46 am
content: Information direct from FLIR on the E4 microbolometerI wrote to FLIR regarding temperature stability. Today I received a very helpful response to my questions. I asked them if the microbolometer in the E4 is temperature stabilised with a TEC and whether the camera will cope with an ambient temperature of 50 Degrees Celcius. I further asked what type of microbolometer was installed.The response surprised me. As ever FLIR were very helpful on the tech side, but I was not expecting what was stated in the comments. I reproduce the response here:There is nothing particular about 30?C besides the fact that most cameras happen to be running at 30-35?C during the production process. It is very probable that they will produce good accurate readings under such conditions. The assumption that they must deteriorate under other conditions is perhaps likely, but definitely not always true. It all depends on how fast and well the temperature drift stabilization math copes with the changed conditions. In Ex, a standard compensation is being used, and it will work better in some cameras and worse in others.Since the Ex cameras do not contain any germanium optics (which starts to get dim at about 50?C), nothing drastic is expected to happen with the accuracy above 50?C. But, you are then using the camera outside of the specification limits.To answer your questions: The Ex detector is not stabilized in any way. Neither heated nor cooled. The Ex detector is made of Vanadium Oxide.So there you have it, from the people who know, the E4 is running bareback without ANY temperature stabilisation of the microbolometer. From a TIC design point of view this is interesting as I was aware that maths could be used to remove the need for the TEC but I was not expecting it in the E4. The comment on the issues of Germanium optics was very interesting. I was already aware that Germanium lenses start to lose transmission efficiency at 100 Degrees Celcius and above. As we know the Ex series uses the Chalcogenide-Glass lens material that obviously does not suffer such effects, or less so anyway. Without testing, I cannot say how well the maths algorithms map the microbolometer drift but FLIR are experts in the field so it may do a half decent job on SOME cameras.My thanks to FLIR for responding on these questions so fully, so that I have a better understanding of my E4 cameras limitations. If I am working in high temperature environments, I will use the PM695's.Aurora

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 12:24:11 pm
content: Presumably the "~" indication at startup is looking at rate of change rather than control status. I would presume that there is an on-die temperature sensor as well as the frame temp sensor

author: OrBy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 01:25:36 pm
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on March 24, 2014, 12:24:11 pm76800 of them to be exact!(just joking around)

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 03:07:30 pm
content: MikeThis news might also explain why your E4 went into orbit when you applied freezer spray to the frame temp sensor ! The microbolometer temperature compensation algorithm must have gone into uncharted waters in response

author: Whizbang
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 28, 2014, 09:20:47 pm
content: Hey guys I need some help.I did the standard E4 Hack from mikes post. I used the zip e4hack3c modified the text zipped it and used flir tools to put it on the camera. I did not do rndis, I'm worried I would brick it if I tried. In my e4 config I have this line:.caps.config.image.zoom.enabled bool true <- shouldn't this enable zoom?Is there a way to get zoom out of this camera with out doing the rndis hack because I have already performed the other one.Thanks guys.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 09:38:23 am
content: Quote from: Whizbang on March 28, 2014, 09:20:47 pmYou also need the menu hack to enable zoom.

author: Corn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 04, 2014, 06:29:29 pm
content: It seems you need to be connected to internet for the camera to be able to connect with pc by the flir device drivers. I don't like this as what if it will restore original resolution to the camera without asking. Any thoughts?

author: RAWebb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2014, 05:47:50 pm
content: No, you should be able to establish an RNDIS connection to the camera without having another network adapter active. Indeed, that is the recommended approach: disconnect all other networks and ensure the camera is selected to RNDIS USB mode.I've had the most success when I connect the camera's USB with the camera powered off. Turning the camera on brings up the RNDIS connection. Note that it is not instantaneous -- give the PC and camera a few moments to get through discovery and handshake. Run ipconfig (PC command line utility) and you should see that your PC gets a 192.168.x.x IP from the camera.

author: mago
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2014, 09:44:59 am
content: Hi all,i need to give my E4 a new, much smaller "case". I follwed mike's teardown video, but i need a new button plate because the original one is embedded into back case, which is hard to unmount. I'm looking to reproduce signals in the flat cable, which has 8 pins (actually, there are 8 "buttons" on the plate, including 4-direction joystick).I'm not an electronic guy, but i think they simply close a circuit over a common ground but, after a continuity test, i found only 2 pins shorting while pressing buttons.Any help/info to find out pinout?

author: tjb1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2014, 12:06:46 pm
content: Has anyone found a screen protector that fits these? I scratched mine just wiping the screen with a microfiber.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2014, 02:16:39 pm
content: Quote from: mago on April 14, 2014, 09:44:59 amFrom memory I'm fairly sure power pin is definitely a short to ground, the others are probably a matrix - the 6 remaining pins are probably either 2x4 or 3x3 for the 7 other buttons.Should be easy enough to map out with a meter.Note that if doing something more ambitious that just re-casing, you can emulate button presses via the serial console or via the TELNET console (not sure if this exists on FW 1.2x+)

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2014, 06:17:22 pm
content: Screen protector is easy, just go buy a big 10 inch tablet screen protector and cut to size with a sharp pair of scissors. You can get a few out of each sheet this way cheaply.

author: tjb1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2014, 03:05:36 am
content: I made a new lens holder that uses quite a bit less material and the camera is almost fully unobstructed (if you wanted to use it) -http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:299482

author: mago
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2014, 12:27:47 pm
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on April 14, 2014, 02:16:39 pmThank you Mike, you're the boss O0

author: mago
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2014, 05:22:11 pm
content: here's what i found:7+8 = ON/OFF2+6 = Back1+6 = PLAY3+6 = JOY(Center)4+5 = JOY(Right)3+5 = JOY(Left)4+6 = JOY(Down)2+5 = JOY(Up)Note: pins are 1 to 8 are like in the picture:

author: scientist
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2014, 01:16:02 am
content: What exactly are you doing with the E4 that you need a smaller case? Sounds like a cool project, but it doesn't seem very practical unless you're 3D printing a new case.

author: mago
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2014, 09:05:45 am
content: i wanna put it in a rc plane to use it in hunting. Maybe one day i will be able to use it for search & rescue, who knows

author: scientist
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2014, 06:19:28 am
content: Using either UAVs2or thermal cameras (and obviously both together) for hunting wild animals is illegal in the US, unless it's for feral pig hunting and you live in Texas or Louisiana.1You might want to wait until it's legal.1.http://www.wlf.louisiana.gov/hunting/outlaw-quadrupeds2.http://www.foxnews.com/science/2014/03/25/eyes-in-air-states-move-to-ban-drone-assisted-hunting/

author: phubarr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 29, 2014, 09:25:43 pm
content: I think freak_ge wanted me to post my info, so here it is...Model: E4 1.1LSerial: 639217xxSoftware: 1.22.0Cal. Date: April 3, 2014Ordered through, and shipped by Amazon.com (Lexington, Kentucky fulfillment center). Order placed April 17th and delivered April 19th 2014. Hope this helps!

author: AintBigAintClever
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2014, 11:39:00 am
content: Quote from: mago on April 15, 2014, 05:22:11 pmLooking at that as a matrix, you get:-12345???UPLEFTRIGHT6PLAYBACKCENTREDOWNMake yourself a switch matrix and you've got a secret button to play with (that'll probably do nothing)If RC mounting you may want to make the entire button panel removable to reduce size and weight further. Off the top of my head I'm thinking extend the existing connector out to a small, rigidly-mounted PCB edge connector such as RS part745-5842. The switch board would then push-fit into that when you need to push buttons, switch on/off etc. then pull back out for flight.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2014, 04:59:13 pm
content: Loss of access to stored pictures - solutionTaucherhas just posted a useful comment on the Teardown thread that I am copying here to avoid it getting lost amongst the mass of pages in that thread.Taucher Text follows:Just a short notice for anybody experiencing similar issues:My E4+ did show problems with the DCIM folder - could not be listed or read over telnet/sambadiskutil unmount, check, remount did not help - still was unable to list contents - not even with "dir" in telnet! -> just stucknew images were not saved etc.Solution: changed to RNDIS+MSD mode - there I could read out the contents and recover the images (then I re-formatted the partition)

author: JFA
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2014, 10:27:25 pm
content: Quote from: Aurora on December 04, 2013, 12:18:08 amTryhttp://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__216__408__Chargers_Accessories-Battery_Chargers.htmlThey sell independent boards, as well as chargers. Note that you do NOT need a balancing charger as this is a single-cell battery pack (presumably, owing to the voltage rating. If they are double-cells, then, they are parallell mounted. I did not try to reverse engineer the battery pack yet.Also, Adafruit.com offered a one-cell LiIon charging module.Try also BatteryJunction.com, they sell charging boards, and individual cells, with or without tabs, if ever yours dies-off. (shipping expensive)Or try DealExtreme (http://DX.com) they are big on parts for Makers...You should note, though, that the included charger is 5V 2A, which packs quite a lot of power. The typical USB port does not provide that kind of juice. (from the top of my head, 500ma for USB2 and 1A for USB3,for enumerated devicesonly. Devices that are not recognized by the computer will not be fed as much juice.So, the included charger can probably charge the 2700ma batterie in fifty minutes, but a regular USB port will take 5-6 hours.I'd have to crack open the battery holder to see what kind of cell in there, and how much you can push the charging (say, 30 min i.e. 2C, or 15 min i.e. 4C ?)

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2014, 01:47:47 am
content: Hi JFA,Thanks for the helpful comments.The post you quoted of mine is quite old and has now been superceded.Other forum members have opened their battery packs to upgrade the lithium ion cell so we now know what lives inside.....just a single 2600mA cell, 10K thermistor and the cell protection circuit. Very simple indeed. I obtained the official external charger and opened it up to discover what FLIR used to charge the cell. My findings are in this thread. The charge controller is a common LTC4001 lithium ion battery charger IC with a 555 timer providing the flashing LED during charge ! The temperature monitor takes its input from a 10K thermistor fitted inside the battery case.Charger teardown is here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/flir-e4-the-useful-information-thread/msg374200/#msg374200So any common lithium ion charger designed to charge a 2600mA cell with a 10K thermistor temperature monitor should work fine with the FLIR batteriesFor once a manufacturer has resisted the temptation to fit some form of clever management IC inside the battery (Benchmarq IC etc)Update:I just tracked down one of the battery disassembly posts....this one from Pomonabill:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg385379/#msg385379A later post shows the other side of the protection pcb to be bare.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg385395/#msg385395

author: AintBigAintClever
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2014, 01:27:46 pm
content: This may be of use to anyone digging around in the palette files.The .pal files found in some of the tools use RGB colour space.The .pal files found on the cameras (and the Mac version of Flir Tools) seem use the YCrCb colour space (look at although yellow.pal from Mac OS FLIR Tools appears to contain RGB information instead, resulting in an incorrect green-to-yellow instead of black-to-yellow palette).The following formulae pasted into Excel will give you rounded conversions from one to the other. If you create a spreadsheet with the following column headers in A1 to O1 you'll be ready for two tables, the left hand one converting RGB to YCrCb and the right hand one converting back:-R G B blank Y' Cr Cb blank Y' Cr Cb blank R G BPaste the following formulae in (these work in LibreOffice, presumably Excel as well):-E2 (Y'): =ROUND(16+1/256*(65.738*A2+129.057*B2+25.064*C2))F2 (Cr): =ROUND(128+1/256*(112.439*A2-94.154*B2-18.285*C2))G2 (Cb): =ROUND(128+1/256*(-37.945*A2-74.494*B2+112.439*C2))M2 (R): =ROUND((298.082*I2+408.583*J2)/256-222.921)N2 (G): =ROUND((298.082*I2-100.291*K2-208.128*J2)/256+135.576)O2 (B): =ROUND((298.082*I2+516.412*K2)/256-276.836)You can now put RGB into A2-C2 and spit out YCrCb in E2-G2, or put YCrCb into I2-K2 and spit out RGB in M2-O2.Due to the rounding to whole numbers you'll find that converting RGB to YCrCb then putting the figures in the other table to convert back will sometimes give different figures (even negative figures at the bottom end of the RGB scale) but it'll be close enough, certainly enough to help get your head round the colour space (I can't think in YCrCb but give me three big RGB sliders and I'm sorted).Formulae are based on the ones here, I've just made them spreadsheet-friendly:http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=YCbCr&diff=prev&oldid=178186629Comparing two versions of yellow.pal and also Rain.pal (RGB) with rainbow.pal (YCrCb, from a camera) the "special colours" seem to have changed places as follows:-RGB palette fileYCrCb (camera) palette fileISOTERM1Isotherm 1ISOTERM2Isotherm 2MARKERnot usedRESERVED1UnderflowRESERVED2OverflowUNDERFLOWBelowOVERFLOWAboveSome palettes have names alongside the colours, but not all (lava.pal doesn't) so these are probably just # comment lines with no function.Extremely short palettes (such as "medical") don't seem to scale well on the E25 (all the colours stay in about the top 30-40%, with the rest blue) but manually scaling the palette up by duplicating the colours works well. I've just succeeded in converting Medical.pal to a camera-compatible format, the next targets are Glowbow.pal and GreyRed.pal. IronHi.pal and RainHi.pal appear to be some sort of binary format so I can't convert those (yet) but we already have rainhc.pal so RainHi probably doesn't matter, and there's not much difference between Iron and IronHi.Edit: looks like XLS is an allowed attachment format

author: AintBigAintClever
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2014, 06:58:43 pm
content: These are the help details for the commands on the ThermaCAM E25. Whether they're the same as for the newer cameras, available-but-hidden on the newer cameras or whatever, I don't know, but here they are (E25 hidden commands in red, the unlock code is FLIR's old favourite unlock code they use everywhere else). This is all from the built-in help text (i.e. typing "help" followed by the command name).ATE0Q0V1: Returning modem-like answers to ease installationATH: Dummy command used by PPP disconnectionaadj: Autoadj imageadjmode: adjmode <l | ls | h | lh | oh [| drc | ldrc | drcls | lscale]>l=level, ls=level+span, h=level+span+histogram, lh = level+histogram, oh=only histogramalloc: View allocated memoryarp: display, set, and delete arp table entriesautoadj: autoadj <on | off | now>autonuc: autonuc [on/off]baudrate: Change baudrate of pSH+ portusage: baudrate [-p <portnr>] bit: Built in testUsage: bit -{V|v|} {}Operator input is expected when "capital letter" tests activatedV verboose, display long result during testsv verboose, display short result during testsD Display results onlya Run test that need no operatorA Run all testk MABC PicK MABC Joystic/buttonsj MA7C PicJ MA7C Joystic/buttonsp Power Picf FocusS Shutterr Filterl Lenst Temp Sensb Batteryi IrdaHwI IrdaConnectc Clockx Expansion Ramd Flash DiskO SoundQ VideoE Left cover buttonsG KeyPadm Mapsh Imagen Verifyg gain corrr pix replacementh histogramf framesumP AD portsB Beeps StatusLcdL LaserX LaserBtnT VisualY VisualImagey BacklightR Remote tempu ViewFinderblankerr: Get number of too long video interruptsboot: Reboot system from boot1 - usage boot <baudrate>bright: Check or set overbright/underbrightbt: Send a button command to PEG: bt [-p <press>] [-r <release>] ebufstat: Get pNA buffer statuscat: concatenate and displaycd: change working directorycheckdisk: Check and repair damaged flash disk (current directory)cleartime: Clear task time statisticsclrscr: clear the screen, using TERM valuecmp: perform a byte-by-byte comparison of two filesconfig: Handle hard configurationUsage: config [-d] [-s] [-i <file>] [-b <file>] (-d=delete, -s=status, -i=install, -b=backup)cp: copy filesdate: display or set the datedf: Report file system spacedobj: Set/read object distance, "dobj <value>" sets object distance (meter), "dobj" without parameter reads object distancedu: display disk blocks usagedumplens: Read lens content r(raw)/i(interpreted)echo: echo arguments to the standard outputeeread: Read from EEPROM on I2Ceewrite: Write to EEPROM on I2Cemiss: Set/read emissivity, "emiss <value>" sets emissivity, "emiss" without parameter reads emissivityfesdload: Load/Read altera FPGA on FESI/FESD boardfesdread: Load/Read altera FPGA on FESI/FESD boardfesiload: Load/Read altera FPGA on FESI/FESD boardfesiread: Load/Read altera FPGA on FESI/FESD boardfile: Determine file typefiletest: Test memory leakage from fopenfilter: Set FPGA filter value (16 bit)flash: Read S-Record file and write data to FLASH; flash <filename | ftp-URL>flirppp: Initialize PPP connection. Usage: flirpppflirppp uses FLIRs modem connectionformat: Format FLASH diskfpa: Direct access to SIM 300 FPA memoryfpaee: Read/Write EEPROM of SIM300 or FESD-FESIfpasc: Send and receive command to Photon detectorfpasc -d will display CRC and header in replymsgfpasc <cmd> <byte1>...fpasc rm <addr> <cnt>: read memoryfpasc wrm <addr> <byte0>... : write memory( DANGER!!)fpga: Load a new file to FPGAfreeze: freeze/unfreeze image distribution, freeze [on/off] (on default)gain: Set/read span, "span <value>" sets span, "span" without parameter reads spangetfblock: Get fileblock (computer control only)getpri: get task prioritygrab: Perform a framegrabgraphics: graphics [on/off]head: display the first few lines of the specified fileshelp: List or print help for commandsUsage: help [ [-l <letter>] | [-s <string>] | [-?] | <cmdname> ]i2cread: Read from generic I2C devicei2cwrite: Write to generic I2C deviceicon: Display an icon on the screenTo create an icon:icon [-n <number>] [-x <x>] [-y <y>] [-s <state>] [-p <twinkle period>] [-t <transparent color>] [-o <overbright color>] [-u <underbright color>] [-w] fileTo alter an icon:icon -n <number> [-x <x>] [-y <y>] [-s <state>] [-p <twinkle period>] [-t <transparent color>] [-o <overbright color>] [-u <underbright color>] [-w] To delete an icon: icon -n <number> -d [-w]id: id: prints user and group idifconfig: configure network interface parametersirtest: Test IrDA connectionkill: terminate a tasklago: Test command for sim300, loop AGOlatchmode: Set/read latch mode, "latchmode <mode>" sets latchmode, "latchmode" without parameter reads latchmodelcrs: Test command for sim300, loop CrsValueslevel: Set/read level, "level <value>" sets level, "level" without parameter reads levellevelt: Set/read radiometric level, "levelt <value>" sets levelT, "levelt" without parameter reads levelTload: Load an ELF file into memory; load <filename>loadpic: Download a new program to PIC; loadpic [-s] <slave address> <filename | ftp-URL>ls: list the contents of a directorymainver: Change mainboard version, usage: mainver [<newVersion>]map: Handle mapsmapmemtest: Map memory testmboxpos: Set/read mbox position, "mboxpos [<n> [<x> <y> <w> <h>]]"mboxsig: Read mbox values (signal)mboxtemp: Read mbox values (kelvin)memstat: Check status of allocated memory, [-l] for detailsmf: Fill memory with datamfunc: Set/read measure func active on/offmkdir: make a directorymount: mount pHILE+ file systemsmr: Read from memorymv: move or rename filesmw: Write to memorynetstat: show network statusnewlens: Update lens calibrationnuc: Non-uniformity correction (create new offset map)Usage: nuc [-n] [<framesLog2>], where -n = no shutter, <framesLog2> = number of nuc frames log2 (0-7, 5 = default)osstat: Get all pSOS objectspalette: Set/read color palette (<palette default> to reset) (opt -e -r)passwd: Change login passwordpicload: Download a new program to PIC; picload <filename>ping: send ICMP ECHO_REQUEST packets to network hostspopd: pop the directory stackpower: Enable 3VD and 8Vppp: Initialize PPP connection. Usage: ppp ppp uses standard dial up connectionpppaddr: Set PPP address for Camera and PCpushd: push current directory onto the directory stackputfblock: Put fileblock (computer control only)pwd: display the pathname of the current working directorypwv: display the current working volumercd: Change level in resource tree: rcd <path>rclone: Clone resources, if possible: rclone <master-path> [clone-path]rcreate: Create new resource: rcreate [-w] rdelete: Delete current resource: rdelete [-w] recall: Recall image file <filename>reclaim: VFM garbage collectrelhum: Set/read relative humidity, "relhum <value>" sets relhum (0.0-0.99), "relhum" without parameter reads relhumresedit: Edit resourcesrest: Dummy commandI'm here to avoid restarting when you mistyped rset!restart: Restart system - usage restart <baudrate>resume: resume a taskrfind: Find resource from substring: rfind <substring>rlock: Lock resource commandsrls: List resources: rls -h for helpusage: rls [-r] [-l] [-d] resource-r list recursive-l list using long format-d force integer decimal outputrm: remove (unlink) filesrmdir: remove (unlink) directoriesroute: manipulate IP routing tablerpatch: Patch values into matching resources: rpatch <substring> <value>rpwd: Print working resource tree levelrset: Set current resource value: rset <path> <value>rtcdate: Set RTC date and timerunlock: Unlock resource commands: runlock <code>savelens: Store lens data in lens eeprom/filesetenv: set environment variablessetpri: set task prioritysetsize: Set filesize (computer control only)showpat: Show test pattern 1 - 4 (1 default)sleep: suspend execution for a specified intervalsound: Generate a beepspan: Set/read span, "span <value>" sets span, "span" without parameter reads spanspant: Set/read radiometric span, "spant <value>" sets spanT, "spant" without parameter reads spanTspotpos: Set/read spot position, "spotpos [<n> [<x> <y>]]"spotsig: Read spot value (signal)spottemp: Read spot value (kelvin)store: Store current imageUsage: store [-j] [-p] [-e] [-o] <filename>(-j=JPEG, -p=PNG compression, -e=JPEG only, -o=Without overlay graphics)supv: Control supervisor; start/stop/unload tasks/libssuspend: suspend a tasksync: force changed blocks to disktail: display the last part of a filetasklist: Print a list of executing pSOS taskstaskstk: Get task stack infotasktime: Get task time statisticstatm: Set/read Tatmosphere, "tatm <value>" sets Tatm (K), "tatm" without parameter reads Tatmtemplog: Temp logtemprange: temprange temptest: Continuous printstermecho: Controls terminal echo on pSH+ portusage: termecho [-p <portnr>] [on|off]touch: update the modification time of a filetrefl: Set/read Treflected, "trefl <value>" sets Trefl (K), "trefl" without parameter reads Treflumount: umount file systemsusbrd: Read (16 bit) reg in USB deviceusbwr: Write (16 bit) reg in USB deviceverify: Verify file systemversion: version [-n item_name]vfmstat: VFM file system statusvideomode: Get/Set video mode to PAL or NTSCvideotest: Activate or deactivate video test picture

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2014, 11:20:22 am
content: I just found a Post that I made on the E4 Review thread and I think it should also appear here so copied across:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------I found an interesting image enhancement article by NEC Avio on the IRInfo site. Interesting reading. My PM695 has some image enhancement capability that I have yet to explore fully.http://www.irinfo.org/Articles/4_1_2012_tamura.htmlAnd an interesting article on the less obvious uses for a TIC written by FLIRhttp://www.irinfo.org/Articles/article_10_2003_flir_keane.htmlAnd another article:http://www.irinfo.org/Articles/article_12_2003_stockton.htmlAnd this on the proprietary data formats output by TIC'shttp://www.irinfo.org/Articles/article_4_2006_colbert.htmland finally, an explanation of specshttp://www.irinfo.org/articles/11_01_2012_swirnow.htmlThere are plenty of interesting articles to read on the site. Worth taking a look.

author: Rozzone
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 13, 2014, 03:03:52 am
content: Does anyone know if the E5s have the updated firmware as well? I have a new E4. I am thinking about sending it back and getting an E5 to see if I can modify the firmware there. Anyone had a look at the new firmware - is it just a matter of time before it is hacked or is it 'unhackable'? Any advice?

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2014, 08:11:07 am
content: All E series have the same firmware. You may be more likely to find an old stock E5 than an E4 as sales volumes will be lower.AFAIK nobody has taken a serious look at the latest firmware, and as there are still a few old units out there, and as most people who are interested will already have bought one, there are far fewer people with any interest in investigating it.

author: Rozzone
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 11:12:24 pm
content: Hi all I have already asked Marphy about this.....I have carried out his upgrade (resolution and menu) and it is great generally – thanks to all concerned. Sometimes however, when I switch the camera on the system either stalls (flir screen – not flir special edition screen) or presents me with an error window (I can’t remember what the error says). I then have to pull the battery out wait a while and start it up again. I am not sure whether I should be concerned with this instability or not. Any others have experience of this?

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2014, 07:39:08 pm
content: Quote from: Rozzone on September 25, 2014, 11:12:24 pmI've seen this very occaisonally

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 25, 2014, 12:31:59 pm
content: Thank´s Aurora and everyone for this amazing post.It looks like there are no functional difference or bugfix between the different FW versions.According to my investigation, for example the FW 1.19.8 is the same (on the functional/bugfix side) than the last one. All the newer FW are apperantly just failed tries to close the hack door.If someone knows more than me, can you please write me a line here below?Many thanks!EDIT: I tried to answer this question here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg579900/#msg579900

author: Whizbang
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 23, 2015, 01:02:50 am
content: Hey I have an E4 that I bought last Feb and moded. My main question is what happens if you remove the hack? Does it just source the original config file? Maybe I missed someone else asking this in previous pages. Should the serial number change or does it stay the same? I remember using hte CRC files and putting my serial number in there and then executing the exe file, however I never did get the menu hack working because I was afraid to use RDNIS. However I just saw a YouTube video where the individual just dragged and dropped using filezilla. This leads to my question, do I need to completely uninstall everything? Or can someone walk me through backing up my original menu in case for safety, and then install the beta 3 menu only. Note: I would like to do this using filezilla, except previously when doing the resolution mod I used terminal, will this cause an issue? Do both modifications have to be done using terminal or RDNISI have read through and tried to search my question, but I may not have used the right key words so i apologize if this a repetitive question. I really don't want to break my camera.Thanks

author: zomi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 12:50:56 pm
content: Does anyone know if the warranty on these is international ?Eg if brought in the states is it valid in the ukthanks

author: kezat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2015, 01:33:36 am
content: Hi guys, I designed a lens holder for 19 and 20mm lens, it is up onhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:683107if you have access to a 3D printer.Two quad resister arrays and a darlington transistor array IC.Thin PCB trace with a simulated short.This is not using the lens but I thought it was cool, can you spot the bad capacitor?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2015, 01:56:07 am
content: Nice workAurora

author: jumbo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 11:30:03 am
content: Hello, one guy in Poland ask me about flir E4b, "is upgrading look like in Flir E4 2.3?". Is it?

author: 3DPrintingService
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 07, 2015, 01:52:35 pm
content: Very useful forum so far guys. From a 3D printing point of view, it's great to see people are actually seeking these services out instead of waiting for a part to come from the manufacturer.if any of you guys need another Flir-e4, give us a call or take a look at ourhttp://www.3dquickprinting.com/. We specialise in getting things out the door the same day

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2015, 01:58:45 pm
content: Is that Simon I hear with his ban hammer?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2015, 02:10:39 pm
content: I hope not. I have no issue with a provider of 3D printing services letting us know that they existAurora

author: 3DPrintingService
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 07, 2015, 03:27:35 pm
content: Thanks Aurora

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2015, 04:09:54 pm
content: Any recommendations for 3d printing in the US?

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2015, 08:50:20 pm
content: Quote from: alank2 on May 08, 2015, 04:09:54 pmbump...

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2015, 09:34:05 pm
content: I hear a lot of positive comments about the high quality of the Shapeways prints as they are printed using a very high performance sintered (?) material printer and not the common extruder type.http://www.shapeways.com/15% off on Friday by the looks of it.I am in the UK so regret I can offer no other recommendations.There may be some 3D printing related threads on this forum that can help you more ?Aurora

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2015, 02:47:12 am
content: Thanks Aurora, I ordered something from them, we'll see how it goes.Is this a good lens:http://www.ebay.com/itm/20mm-CO2-ZnSe-Laser-Collimating-Lens-Laser-Engraver-Cutter-Focus-50-8mm-2-/261541517475?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce516d8a3Thanks,Alan

author: murcielago
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2015, 04:52:16 pm
content: can i confirm the t198530 is the correct replacement battery for this?the manual doesn't make any mention of the t198423 (the model number of the battery included in the unit)

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2015, 05:01:26 pm
content: @alank2,That lens is OK but consider the focus point. With that lens it will be approx 50mm in front of the lens. I found that a bit too close and selected the 60mm an 100mm focus point lenses.Aurora

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2015, 05:16:55 pm
content: @murcielagoBattery is listed as FLIR T198530 as a spare part.http://store.flir.com/product/ex-series-battery/ex-series-accessoriesFull battery technical details including manufacturer are provided herehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/flir-e4-the-useful-information-thread/msg341784/#msg341784No third party version known of at this time (unlike some other FLIR camera models)Cell replacement is relatively simple as it is a standard type and only battery safety electronics are present in the battery pack (in other words it is dumb and not protected against cell changing)My UK FLIR supplier has the battery here:http://www.tester.co.uk/flir-t198530-battery?gclid=Cj0KEQjwkIurBRDwoZfi1bGCxocBEiQAmcs-et_iJrKvydYDSaZC-TWyLEfbeq6gP-ni8uY87iLQorcaAmZP8P8HAQAurora

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2015, 10:27:54 pm
content: Thanks Aurora, I ordered the 50mm and 100mm, they are $17 each shipped. Shapeways canceled my first order because the polishing process was incompatible with the 0.5mm channel that holds the lens. They had a "fix" button and it made the channel thicker so that it extends past the back side so we'll see how it turns out.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2017, 01:48:05 pm
content: I am just giving this ancient E4 related thread a bump as more recent purchasers of the E4 may find its contents helpful.Fraser

author: mrubbert
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2017, 11:44:45 pm
content: For 3Dprint in local area, try this:https://www.3dhubs.com/I got my Lens tool printed same day within 10min pickup.They also have CNC alu.... options.Now waiting for the ordered e4 3.9.0

author: ixfd64
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2017, 11:21:11 pm
content: One thing I had heard about the Ex series is that the screen is easily scratched. Is this still the case?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2017, 11:33:41 pm
content: Yes.The screen is made from VERY soft plastic that may be easily scratched. Sadly screen protectors designed for the Ex series appear to be rare and expensive. Last time I saw on it was around $30. I bought a whole load of mobile phone and iPad screen protectors with the intention of making my own protector to fit the E4. Avoid the tempered glass protectors if you intend to cut themI personally like the protectors that have a gel like adhesive on the rear that holds the protector in place with no bubbles, yet may be removed and washes before re-application to thevscreen. I have had one on my original TomTom Go Classic Sat Nav for many yearsThe problem is that the Ex and Exx series camera have quite large screens making finding a close matching protector challenging.Fraser

author: rch
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2017, 12:34:06 am
content: Do you know if all screen protectors are fully transparent to infra red?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2017, 01:30:05 am
content: Sorry, you have lost me there. Why do the LCD display screen protectors need to be fully transparent to IR ?The protector is on the LCD screen plastics and not the lens block.If you wish to make a lens protector for a thermal camera, you need Polyolefin plastic film of thickness 12um to 15um. Such would need to be mounted in a frame and gently heated to make it taught.https://www.industrialpackaging.com/blog/pvc-polyethylene-polyolefin-the-differencesFraser

author: rch
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2017, 07:56:17 pm
content: Oh sorry, I thought you were talking about lens protectors for some reason - thanks for the answer!

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2017, 10:27:42 pm
content: Rch,No problemLens protectors come in two varieties, long life, and disposable. Long life protectors tend to be made using a Germanium window. This is AR coated just like the cameras lenses. As such these are very expensive. £1000+ for a FLIR protector is not unusual. The disposable lens protectors are considerably cheaper and commonly used where liquids are being observed, or are present, at close quarters. These are usually made from Polyolefin plastic film and the film can sometimes be replaced by the user, when required.Long life lens protectors provide decent protection from liquid splashes, dirt and even light impacts. The disposable protectors provide protection from liquid splashes and dirt. The film is easily ruptured so impact protection is minimal.Both types of lens protector usually comprise a lens mounting ring of some description into which the protective window is fitted. On cameras designed for use in harsh conditions, the window is usually of the long life Germanium type and it forms part of the cameras sealed case. An example of such is a fire fighting camera.Fraser

author: rch
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2017, 12:26:25 am
content: That's interesting. I suppose if your using the IR camera outside the lab at least some splash protection is a very good idea.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2017, 12:50:47 am
content: It was a simple equation for some owners..... spend be money on lens protection or risk a huge repair bill if the objective got scratched or damaged by chemical agents.The Objectives are reasonably robust though so rain is not going to cause harm to them so long as the water is removed reasonably soon and very carefully using the correct technique.Watching a Li-Ion battery destroy itself outside the lab might require working at a distance or, working 'close in' appropriate lens protection just in case the cell pack created a vapour cloud or there is an explosion event creating flying material.Even with modern, cheaper, thermal cameras, a destroyed objective still costs a significant sum of money. A destroyed Germanium lens on a FLIR camera could actually cause it to be written-off as beyond economic repair.Fraser

author: lwi004
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 12:03:01 pm
content: HiCan anyone point me in the right direction for a cheap ND filter to extend the temp range of my E4(E8)I'm doing tests on some resistors and want to have a better of idea of the actual temperature. Doesn't need to be TOO accurate or anything.I already have a close up lens in one of the 3D printed holders, so something which fits into the same holder would be perfect.Thanks

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 01:46:17 pm
content: Iwi004,Sadly ND filters for thermal cameras are not common. The reason for this is that the maximum temperature capability of a microbolometer thermal camera is set using the pixel bias voltages. Cameras that need greater temperature range just have two or more bias voltages that create additional ranges. As the range is increased, the sensitivity normally decreases. For very high temperatures, cameras do need a filter or attenuators to be attached in the optical path. Such cameras are usually of the Industrial variety.Now back to your situation........Your E4 should be capable of measuring most electronic components within its maximum temperature capability. Temperatures much higher than 260C would normally indicate a serious situation that could lead to self desoldering of the component ! Are you able to expand a little on your situation ?The Emissivity of electronic components can be an issue so you need to ensure your camera is set up correctly respect. You can carry out a temperature accuracy check on a certain component by using a surface contact thermocouple and then comparing the reading with that produced by the thermal camera. A difference in the readings could be due to an incorrect Emissivity setting in the camera for the particular surface it is viewing.There are simpme 'tricks' that enable a thermal camera to view targets that exceed the cameras maximum temperature, but they are crude and uncalibrated. I used such a method to view a gas burner head.Some experimentation is required but here is an insight into what can be done simple.....A thermal attenuators is just a material that does not provide 100% transmission of the thermal scene to the camera sensor. By this definition, all thermal camera lenses are attenuators ! I.e. They all introduce losses into the optical path. If we take that idea a step further, we can deliberately insert a material into the optical path that we know to have poor transmission in the LongWave thermal spectrum. The material does need to be of reasonable 'optical' quality though.Polyolefin film, as used in consumer product shrink wrapping, is a decent material for the transmission of thermal energy. It is used as a simple thermal camera lens protector. It is available in various thicknesses and in the case of a lens protector, I recommend 12micron or 15micron for good transmission. As the thickness increases, the transmission decreases due to losses within the material. So we need to consider both the material and its thickness when making an attenuator.I have successfully used a standard photographic Tiffen Haze filter on my E4 to view the gas appliance head and flame. The filter is made from optical glass that is not too thick and is NOT multi coated. Glass has very port transmission figures in the LW thermal spectrum but ir is not 0% transmission. It therefore acts as a large attenuation block in the optical path. It also acts as a lens protector if viewing boiling fluids such as oil.As to gaining ant sort of decent temperature measurement.....that could be challenging. There are two approaches that could be used. Both have their error factors though !1. Set up a test with a test target operating at the predicted temperature that will be observed when using the attenuator. Measure the target accurately with a thermocouple ot PT100 contact sensor. Observe the target using the thermal camera with the attenuator in place. Make a note of the temperature indicated on the camera. This is the temperature you should expect to see on target device if it has the same Emissivity as the test piece that was just used. The reverse process could be used. The target temperature could be measured with the camera and then the camera aimed at the test piece that has a contact temperature sensor fitted. The temperature of the test piece could then be adjust until the camera reads the same temperature as the target device. The true temperature may then be read off of the test piece.2. A standard comparative calibration test could be carried out in order to produce a simple temperature conversion chart. A variable temperature test source is needed for this process. I would suggest that a variable temperature controlled soldering iron may be useful as a test source. Its bit should be Dull and not shiny. A really old and pitted bit is best ! This keeps the Emissivity reasonable. Unless the calibration of the so,dering iron display is trusted and reasonably ac irate for the free air temperature of the bit, a separate Thermocouple or PT100 temperature monitor should be attached to the bit.TIP: if you do not own an old corroded soldering iron tip, you can buy Matt black high temperature exhaust system paint from a motor factors. Spray the shiny tip with this to form a decent Emissivity surface good to at least 600C. Some HT paints can offer higher temperatures but the soldering iron will 'top out' before 600C anyway ! You can get similar paint for cast iron stoves and BBQ's as well.The test set up will involve pointing the thermal camera at the soldering iron bit without the attenuator fitted, followed by the use of the attenuator.a) set the soldering iron to its lowest temperature setting and allow to stabilise. Check the temperature with a thermocouple or PT100 meter. Adjust the temperature control if required to provide a round number such as 200C. Measure the tip temperature using the thermal camer without an attenuator fitted. If the reading is not 200C, adjust the cameras Emissivity setting until it does provide a reading of 200C. We are trying to get the Emissivity setting of the camera to match that of the dull soldering iron tip. Avoid pointing the cameras measurement area at shiny parts of the soldering tip !b) Create a table on paper with the following columns....Target Temp actualTarget Temp TIC no attenuatorTarget Temp TIC with attenuatorYou need to decide on the resolution of your calibration table. I would suggest 10C steps but it is your choice. The temperatures are listed down the page, like so....200C210C220C230C240C250CEtc.....For each temperature you will enter the required heading data. First the targets temperature as measured by its calibrated display or a suitable contact temperature sensor. Then check the target temperature using the camera without the attenuator, followed by with the attenuator in front of the lens. Change the temperature of the target to the next incremental value and allow to stabilise. Repeat the readings at that temperature. Continue this process until the camera reaches its maximum capability without the attenuator. It will normal, indicate an over range situation. Beyond that, calibration of the camera is unknown. At this point, you can stop doing the camera without attenuator readings and just leave the attenuator in situ.c) After all the required temperature steps have been documented you will have a reference chart that will enable the readings of the thermal camera to be checked against it and interpreted. Why did we test the camerawith no attenuator in place ? These cameras become less accurate at the extremes of the temperature ranges. It also gives you an indication of the attenuators effect on the readings as a confidence check that the camera is not producing a very non uniform measurement response with the attenuator in situ.Now the bad news.... neither method detailed above is with out its limitations and inaccuracies. Emissivity of materials can change with temperature and the passband of the attenuator is unlikely to be flat. Hence why we cannot just determine an attenuation offset rather than individual comparisons to a known target at a known temperature. There are several other issues that can introduce errors in the readings, such as surface reflectivity and background ambient temperature, but I suspect Young can still achieve the desired accuracy by just using the above methods and setting the ambient or background temperature in the camera.This is a time consuming process but the good news is that method b) would only need to be carried out once and then you have your temperature translation table for raw particular attenuator.3. You can experiment with various smooth surface materials to assess their thermal spectrum attenuation capabilities. Very thin glass is a possibility. Glass cover slips for microscope slides could be tried. Various plastics are decent attenuators of thermal energy. They need not be transparent at visible light wavelengths ! ABS modelling plasticard could be tried as it comes in various thicknesses. Just consider anything relatively thin and these it by viewing a soldering iron or gas burner head through it. If you are lucky enough to have a plain wafer (unpopulated) of silicon that also works as a good attenuator at LW. Avoid metals, they will not work.Finally, a word of caution. When observing a target that is emitting large amounts of thermal energy, it can start to heat the attenuator material and this will cause measurement accuracy issues. In industry, an air purge is used to maintain the temperature of the front window. This is why that is done. Suvh air purge systems are needed when observing furnaces and very hot targets in the steel industry.Hope this helpsFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 01:55:17 pm
content: This thread showing my experiment with the Haze photographic Glass filter may be of interest to you as well......https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/range-extender-for-thermal-cameras-cheap-option-from-fraser/msg941515/#msg941515Fraser

author: lwi004
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 02:16:55 pm
content: Wow Fraser, thanks for all of that!We are usinghttp://www.ttelectronics.com/resistors/parts/wdbr2tas a brake load for extreme circumstances and the possible desoldering of components near the board is the issue we are trying to ensure doesn't happen.The element temperature in normal use can get to 365C but as we are using it for extreme cases for short period, it will be higher. I got it to glow nicely which would mean around 700C at a guess and I need to be careful of not damaging the overglaze as this would cause issue for my Dielectric.SO I was basically trying to find a way of gauging how much above 260C I actually am to see where the limitations are and how different heat sinking / cooling / compounds affect this. You can see an image I took but at this stage, the element hadn't changed colour, so I could not tell if I was at 300 or 500C for example.Will dig out my lens filters and see what I actually have handy!

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 02:46:43 pm
content: Iwi004,I see your problem ! Power electrics are an area where sadly I have little experience. If I were faced with such a task I would likely reach for my FLIR E60 (E40 upgraded) as that has a 650C top end. I would set it up on a tripod monitoring the power resistor and feed its radiometric output to FLIR ResearchIR 4 Max running on a PC. ResearchIR 4 Max provides temperature profiling so can provide a plot of the highest temperatures reached during a test. It can also record the whole test to the PC for later analysis, frame by frame if needed. I know this does not help you but this is how the problem would normally be tackled. Such an equipment setup would run to several thousand DollarsIn your case an E4 that is fitted with a suitable attenuator should work. You would be wise to coat the whole resistor and its soldered terminals with UHT paint though. This will provide a more even Emissivity for the test as the bright solder terminals have a very low emissivity so you are not seeing their true temperature when viewing the test of the PCB at a higher Emissivity.If this is a safety related project, it might be worth developing it using your E4 camera and then hiring a more capable camera for final testing ?Fraser

author: lwi004
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 03:03:37 pm
content: Hi Fraser,at present it's about seeing what might reasonably be achievable and deciding if it's a route worth taking. Thereafter, yes we could do "proper" testing thereafter! Sadly my E4 was a version 2 something firmware and I couldn't extend the temperature with the hidden setting...Do you know if there are any "tapes" one can use instead of paint? For lower temperature I use this one but it's only rated to 250Chttps://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermometer-accessories/1252269/Thanks again

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 03:10:18 pm
content: Ouch! That tape is expensive.In the industry normal PVC electrical tape is used as that has good Emissivity. Sadly the temperatures you are looking to create will fry most common tapes that I would use. There are high temperature Mylar and Kapton tapes but you would need to test their Emissivity using a simple boiling water test. Set your cameras Emissivity to 0.96. Place the tape on a baked bean (or similar) tin of boiling water, measure the waters temperature using a thermocouple, or you could just view the water with the camera (water Emissivity is good), then view the tape on the outside of the tin with an Emissivity setting of 0.96. If the readings are reasonably close, it is a decent Emissivity tape and you can test it further to determine its actual Emissivity in order to enter its value into the camera.More on that from me if needed.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 03:23:39 pm
content: If you are located not too far away in the UK I may be able to bring some of my thermal cameras and ResearchIR 4 Max along for a test at some point in your development. I am thinking of the fast frame rate FLIR E60 and A40 cameras. I also own fire fighting cameras that are capable of measuring very high temperatures at 30fps.FraserSouth MidlandsUK.

author: lwi004
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 03:25:46 pm
content: yes it was a silly price. I hadn't considered the Kapton tape and I have enough of that. Anyway I reckon that reel, should last me a few years anyway!! Sadly Mylar and Kapton Tape isn't rated much above 250-300C.Used typical electrical tape to begin with but as temp went higher and the glue became a mess, decided to invest in something else!Currently working in Switzerland though!!! Thanks for the offer.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 03:30:49 pm
content: No problem..... I would not mind a trip to SwitzerlandAll the bestFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 03:45:19 pm
content: Some more ideas for Emissivity enhancers are to be found here......http://www.flir.com/science/blog/details/?ID=71556I still think a coating on the PCB is possibly the most effective treatment. You could experiment with simple children's powder paint or even coat the board with candle soot ! The coatings need not be permanent. FLIR even mention Scholl foot powder as a possibility ! Once tested, the coating may be rinsed off using water or a safe solvent.I know you have concerns regarding dielectric strength so obviously that needs to be considered.Fraser

author: lwi004
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 03:56:49 pm
content: Again thanks for the links. For test purposes dielectric strength isn't particularly critical. Just paints etc to always clean up etc is a pain. I'll look into the powders etc. Or at least just put a splodge of paint on, but wonder if that might cause a hotspot...Oh well, will carry on testing etc.All the best

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 06:59:55 pm
content: Regarding a 'hot spot', no this should not occur with a coating of paint as the emissivity is being increased leading to a greater efficiency in thermal radiation. Hence why shiny plain aluminium heat sinks offer inferior performance to those coated with a high emissivity finish. Forced air cooling can lead to hot spots in areas not in the cooling air stream however.Fraser

author: lwi004
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2017, 08:32:45 pm
content: Thank you again. You're right. I had never thought it properly through!!

author: theBigK
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2018, 05:14:55 am
content: So if I want dual use for this flir, one for automotive diagnostic and one for electronic PCB repair, can I have the 3D printed lens adapter + the laser lense, is it difficult to swap a few times a day. Or should I avoid doing that

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2018, 10:49:39 am
content: The various lens holders for the E4 are easy to fit and remove.The alternative is to have a lens focus tool printed and adjust the focus as needed. This works well but some users dislike the idea of adjusting the focus point set at the factory. In truth that is just a rough set focus optimized at 4 metres and relying upon depth of field for adequate focus at other distances. For Automotive use the standard focus setting may be adequate or you may wish to bring the focus down to your normal operating distance when working in the engine bay etc. It would be worth having the close up lens and the focus tool as neither cost very much. The E4 lens can be adjusted to focus very close for PCB inspection work. The ETS320 detailed elsewhere on this forum is just an E series camera chassis and lens in a different outer casing. It is used for PCB inspection as a dedicated tool. Focus is factory set at 70mm with +-10mm depth of field in that unit.There is a very nice lens holder and focus tool detailed in this threads recent postings ......https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/flir-e4-wifi-resolution-and-menu-hack-thread/425/Direct links to 3D files:Holder:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2108075Focus tool:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:188896Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2020, 12:00:19 pm
content: I am just raising this thread from the dead in case it is useful to newcomers to the forumFraser

author: calel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2020, 04:29:51 pm
content: k so I take it this the right threadso as I was saying, anyone know if the hack in this link:https://web.archive.org/web/20190409142550/https://fubar.gr/hacking-the-flir-e4/(which only works on 2.3.0 if I'm not mistaken) also disables the cam's noise generator?

author: EthanSpitz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 18, 2021, 06:56:31 pm
content: Continuing on the useful stuff, I wanted to share that I modified one of the FLIR E4 lens holders to add tabs to assist in removing.It's based on this from thingiverse:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:683107I converted it to a solid and added on the tabs, here is the solid file which can be exported as an STLhttps://cad.onshape.com/documents/48808614b9599f5c34653a5c/w/415ebb503c4f5b42dd3a97fe/e/92a6f1940ab5b5c777ae7b4b

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2021, 11:01:07 pm
content: Thanks, i actually have one of the original design, using it fairly often.

author: GSJ
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 19, 2021, 09:30:07 am
content: Quote from: Fraser on January 23, 2014, 10:41:12 pmThe component on my T127715-E PCB is burned. I need some help to find proper replacement.I assume that the answer is in quoted post, but I'm not sure. Is it maybe Zener diode?The picture shows burned component near timer for LEDs.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2021, 04:37:06 pm
content: The attached are the datasheets for all the components that I identified when I looked at the charger design. I may have a schematic somewhere but I did not find it with the datasheets in my archive.The components that are fried on your charger were marked "G3A" on my unit. That is quite a common marking and i di not think I identfied a specific datasheet for that part. If theer is another component with teh same marking on your PCB that is nor damaged, you can identify what it is by test. There is an identical component leading to the 555 timer on my PCB. Alternatively your can reverse engineer the circuit around the 555 timer IC. If in the output circuit they will be either diodes or transistors. The role will not be demanding so generic replacement parts will be useable. You need to consider why the original component(s) burned up though.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2022, 12:21:06 pm
content: I am often being asked about the FLIR E4 and upgrades etc.I am dusting off this old thread in case it is of use to anyone. It is from a long time ago when I was more involved in ‘all things E4 related’ but much of the content remains valid today. I discontinued adding to this thread as my focus moved onto other cameras etc.I sold both my E4 cameras a while back as my E40(E60+) replaced them in my lab.Fraser

author: charlyd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2022, 08:59:15 pm
content: hello i am looking for the switch or switchpanel. from the Flir E4 63901in detail my "BACK" SWITCH IS BROKEN.how can help me ?

author: Marekx89
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 01:53:15 pm
content: Hello, i have focus adjustment tool, but when i try focus, i dont see changes. What i do wrong ?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 02:27:00 pm
content: Make sure the tool is engaged in the lens properly. Some 3D printed tools are a tight fit whilst others will not fit properly due to a poor print.Be assured, if you are actually rotating the lens barrel, you WILL see a significant change in focus for very little movement as the focus travel on these cameras is very short.Fraser

author: Marekx89
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 04:47:17 pm
content: I create mark on lens, i see change when i focus, but not change on display. At focus, work it only on non MSX mode ? Because lens adjuster block digital camera

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 04:57:22 pm
content: YES, the focus adjustment is only changing the focus of the thermal imaging camera and does not change the visible light camera focus that creates the MSX edge enhancement data.Use the focus tool when working in "thermal only" non MSX mode to see its effect. Trying to do close up work with MSX switched on can be challenging due to the parallax error that occurs at close range.Fraser

author: Marekx89
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 05:38:04 pm
content: Ok, i see change, my lens has been very unscrew.

author: tske
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2025, 11:14:03 am
content: Quote from: Fraser on November 18, 2013, 02:04:42 amWhat's the difference among those hardware revisions?