hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Solar panel array question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Powermax
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2017, 08:37:03 pm
content: I am on the UVa Solar Car team, and I was thinking about the best approach to how to best wire our solar panels.Currently we plan to use 29 in series, but I am concerned that due to the design of the car (rounded) that the panels will not receive equal irradiance, and this may severely impact losses. Especially if one of the panels becomes damaged during the "scrutineering" process.For instance: If you wire cells in series, and one of them is not producing the same amount as other panels, then the increased series and drop in voltage would equate to power loss. I figure that it's possible to low-barrier schottky diodes in anti-parelell to each cell, which would start conducting as soon as the voltage drops to -0.1V or so. So at least the rest of the cells in the series are still supplying current even with one out of operation, with minimal loss.But what if cells are wired in parallel? Then when one cell is not receiving light, will the leakage current cause problems? Will the "dead" cell act as a short-circuit to the rest of the good cells? Adding a diode in series with every panel seems like a bad idea as that would cause a drop of 0.1V for every cell. The cells we are using output 2.083V at optimum power output.The solar technology being used are off-spec dual-junction allium arsenide (GaAs) solar panels. (not the typical monocrystalline or polycrystalline silicon used for consumer gear) and unfortunately there exists no widely available datasheet for these panels as they are very much obsolete, out of production, and they are off-spec. (not good enough for NASA, in other words.)

author: Le_Bassiste
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2017, 10:23:24 pm
content: you are raising many valid points there.series cabling has indeed some decent advantages over paralleling strings: for the same power output, series connection has higher voltage and lower current, so you have either less I^2R losses in the cabling for a given wire diameter, or you may save some weight because of possible wire size reduction. ymmv, pun intended. also, have a search for "optimizers" for solar PV applications.for example,https://www.solaredge.com/us/products/power-optimizer#/.these are most likely not suitable for your application, but you get the picturethese give you the advantage of running all PV modules at their individual MPPs. most helpful when trying to get the most out of an array that is subject to partial shading.for the parallel connection, you get some form of "redundancy" in case of a wire harness(connector) - , or module-failure. also, you can keep system voltage at safe low levels. however, as you said, the decoupling diodes will impact system efficiency.so, i'd opt for series connection here.

author: mycroft
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2017, 10:35:47 pm
content: Two interesting pages are:-https://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19650020213.pdf-http://www.avdweb.nl/tech-tips/pv-panels/bypass-diodes.html
Solar panel battery charger with PowerPath - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Lt_Flash
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2019, 09:01:06 am
content: Hi everyone!This is my project that utilizes BQ24074 battery charger in conjunction with any 6V solar panel allowing charge currents of up to 1.5A and automatic PowerPath management and switchover from battery to solar panel and back. It's very simple yet quite satisfying, more details here. It's tested, completed and is working fine at my home, providing me with night LED lightsThanks!https://workspace.circuitmaker.com/Projects/Details/LtFlash/Solar-charger
Solar Panel charger for a Arlo Pro using a BQ24650 and set up converter  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: TrueYears
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 12, 2018, 11:23:45 pm
content: Hello guys!I have a small project and could use some much needed advice on where to go next. I have with me a 3W solar panel (7.2v .41A) and would like to know if I could use this to charge a NetGear Arlo Pro security camera. I did some research and found that the BQ24650 could be a great cheap solar charger however I need help finding a way to boost the voltage to 9V and current to 1.1A ( this is what the Arlo battery charger outputs)A typical Arlo official charger cost about $79 dollars and I realize with the parts I would buy it will ended up costing even more but it’s a small project I want to do. Anyways I’ll update this post with new information I find but any help is much appreciated. Thank you for reading.Source links:http://www.ijeijournal.com/papers/v2i3/H02035962.pdfhttp://www.ti.com/lit/an/slyt424/slyt424.pdf

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2018, 11:55:45 pm
content: You can’t boost voltage and current simultaneously. That would be free energy!IOW you can’t get 9.9W from a 3W solar panel.

author: TrueYears
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 13, 2018, 12:35:13 am
content: Hmmm so I could also make it work at 5v at 1.8A you’re right I guess I am just gonna have to built a battery bank then use that to charge the Arlo
solar panels with blocking diode - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Arcamax
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2015, 05:25:11 pm
content: if i ordered some solar panels online and came with diodes... are those blocking diodes

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2015, 05:29:06 pm
content: Maybe yes, maybe no. Read that article I gave you.

author: Arcamax
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2015, 06:05:12 pm
content: yeah im reading it while typing. im on pg 28 now
Solar power research and design project question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Crom
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 12, 2018, 11:43:04 pm
content: Hello all,I want to start by stating that I am not an electrical engineer. I am a tinkerer and I am skilled at a number of trades but I do lack the technical expertise that I am sure most of you have, That being said I wish to apologize if I use improper terminology or lack critical understanding of a point. I will do my best to keep up as the conversation progresses.I would like to develop a device which can take the variable energy input from a string of solar panels and convert it in real time to a usable power supply in the form of a standard US 110 household outlet that can carry at least 15 amps. Having energy storage batteries incorporated into the system is not an option. I recognize that with the nature of solar, the input power will surge and decline rapidly and erratically. To overcome this the system would be powered by a string of panels that would greatly exceed the 1800 Watts that are needed to reach 15 amps. I am rough estimating around 5000 Watts of potential input. So the device would need to be able to dump the excess energy to avoid burning out the outlet on particularly sunny days and it would need to be able to provide less than 15 Amps of 120AC on days where the energy generated is low. The device would need to produce a clean sine wave under all these condition so electronics and other sensitive devices could be used without damage. I assume it would also need a shut off that would prevent a load from exceeding what the panels are currently providing. Is such a device technologically possible and if so what components would be needed to make it a reality?At this point I am not so concerned about the financial viability or other more pragmatic solutions. I want to find out if the power from solar panels be used in real time without batteries and if so how would you make that happen. Thanks all for your help and feel free to correct or guide me if my proposal is in some way flawed or incomplete. I am always willing to learn.All the best,-Crom

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2018, 01:42:32 am
content: This can be done with a specialized DC to AC inverter. The problem is that it is difficult for the inverter to know that the input power is insufficient to power the load leading to rapid power dumps. What might work is having the inverter shut off until manually reset when power is insufficient.
Solar powered 2 pin RGB LED - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Lucky-Luka
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 01, 2021, 09:06:46 am
content: Hi allI have an RGB LED led that needs more or less 3 volts to perform correctly its light routine.Can I use for my project a 3.3V zener diode?Only using the rectifier diode and the cap as a buffer the voltage would be a rather constant 4.8V.Cheers

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2021, 10:14:47 am
content: There are constant current diodes, that do this. They pass 20mA or 40mA or whatever its setting. On semi makes them for example.

author: Lucky-Luka
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 01, 2021, 11:43:24 am
content: I think this is not a proper solution for my problem.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2021, 01:04:34 pm
content: Just increase the capacitance and inductance. Try at least 470uF for the capacitor.

author: tunk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2021, 02:29:18 pm
content: Are these any help:https://youtu.be/FsA79XdV1wkhttps://youtu.be/wHje7_suqE0
Solar Powered Multimeter + Super capacitor Battery! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Kedar264
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2015, 07:57:47 pm
content: I Used Dc-Dc Step Up (Boost) Converter to charge 5.5 v ,1 F supercapacitor. For Such a Low Power Applications Supercapacitors Can Be Used as a BatteryI Used uni t ut61e which consumes 4-5 ma @ 2 Volts ,so with the 6*0.6 Solar cell Multimeter can be directly powered from indoor light conditions.Well just the problem is where to fit the Solar cell any suggestions?Watch my Solar Powered Multimeterhttps://youtu.be/6Sy7cAr-pYw

author: lapm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2015, 08:26:07 pm
content: Nice idea, but is int that bit difficult to use? Your multi-meter is going to be bigger if you need solarcells to keep it running..If you really want solar power it, build separate panel for it, that way you can use panel with other projects too later... Also releases valuable desk space..

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2015, 08:39:55 pm
content: This isn't suitable for measuring mains, unless the solar panel, boost converter and super capacitor can be adequately insulated from the user. It's strictly for SELV only.

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2015, 09:37:17 pm
content: UNI-T has a solar-powered meter already. The UT90C:It can also be recharged from mains and 12~36V AC/DC (25F super cap)

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2015, 12:11:23 am
content: Not forgetting this gemhttp://overseas.sanwa-meter.co.jp/items/detail.php?id=33

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2015, 12:11:46 am
content: Not forgetting this gemhttp://overseas.sanwa-meter.co.jp/items/detail.php?id=33

author: LabSpokane
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2015, 12:35:43 am
content: Put the cells on the back of the meter and leave it face down to recharge when not in use. I'd just mount the whole thing to the battery door. If it will run off the solar cells, it won't take long to top off that super cap to take a few measurements.
Solar powered wacky dancing inflatable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Kristof
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 06:22:51 pm
content: Hello guysI need your help. I want to build a wacky dancing inflatable which will be powered by solar energy and has to be on timer which I can adjust so it turns on for one minute and then it's off for 20-30 minutes and it repeats the cycle. And it should be working only during the day. I will built my own fan which is the 12V car fan. I also have a solar power case. Only thing I'm missing is the timer. I can't find one for 12V DC. See the video below for what exactly am I looking for but 12V DChttps://youtu.be/Vj0fjzFkhDc?si=7X15bvNUAjgljGn6

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 08:04:32 pm
content: You can probably find or cobble together modules to do this, but do you really not want to learn to program a micro? You can even do it graphically.

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 09:20:09 pm
content: The cheap Chinese DC timer modules could do what you want, though the programming instructions aren't the clearest:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007549722717.htmlYou can get these on eBay and Amazon too.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 09:45:21 pm
content: The day time only requirement seems a problem for that.

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 10:29:26 pm
content: Quote from: Marco on October 14, 2025, 09:45:21 pmGood point, overlooked that. The CN101A timer claims 16 on/off periods which would be enough for an 8 hour day assuming a 1/2 hour cycle e.g.https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07RL1996T

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 11:19:13 pm
content: Quotebut youd have to keep changing it to account for the different length of daylight hours
Solar PV Curve Genorator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: House91320
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2013, 08:00:20 pm
content: I need a a power supply that will simulate the pv curve of a solar cell, dose anyone know of a good circuit to do this?

author: ejeffrey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2013, 10:30:17 pm
content: Depends on what you need, but a constant current source shunted by a diode is a pretty good model.

author: House91320
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2013, 10:58:42 pm
content: That's what was thinking thank you.

author: ftransform
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2013, 11:35:27 pm
content: Quote from: House91320 on June 26, 2013, 08:00:20 pmsays the vampire

author: Harvs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2013, 12:45:58 am
content: Depends on what you're trying to do with it. Obviously implementing the single diode model as a CC across a diode doesn't shift much in its characteristics (other than adjusting the current of course.), that may or may not be of any significance to you.If you want it to match a certain cell a bit more closely you can easily tune the slopes of the IV curve by adding in series and parallel resistance like the single diode model has.
Solar voltage regulator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 16, 2023, 01:34:53 pm
content: Good afternoon ;-)Stupid question (o;Can thos MPPT solar chargers be used for just powering a water pump or only for charging?Looking for a solution where can I plug in a 20 or more Watt solar panel and get constant 9V output.thanks in sdvancerichard

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2023, 02:52:31 pm
content: MPPT by definition is trying to get the most power from the panel. This means on its own it isn't suitable for a fixed voltage constant load, as the load cant use any extra power the MPPT controller can extract from the panel. A battery is necessary to adsorb the extra power when available. Its theoretically possible the MPPT controller could drop back to a constant voltage float charge mode, but its fairly unlikely that a specific MPTT controller will ever reach float charge mode without a battery as most nowadays are smart enough to fault out if a bad (or no) battery is detected.

author: PCB.Wiz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2023, 12:45:31 am
content: Quote from: davorin on July 16, 2023, 01:34:53 pmThe vast majority of MPPT controllers are battery load focused, a water pump is a very different load.You probably need more of a Maximum Water Flow controller, and someone may have developed that ?The other thing to consider, is can your pump safely cool at lower flows/voltages ? - many rely on water flow for cooling, so an under voltage cutout may be neededYou could buy a low cost Aliexpress unit, suitably overrated, with dual trim pots, that has set points on output voltage and mppt region, and just try itThe very cheapest MPPT units are Solar to battery (4 terminals) so leave the battery load cut off to the user.The better modules include user load disconnect and battery range manage.A custom pump design using super-cap loads, would need 2 switching units, one with MPPT tuned to allow high short current rating to work down to 0V into the CAP, and the other than can buck/boot from the super cap to your pump, with some hysteresis so the pump runs at it's best operating curve too.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2023, 01:10:48 am
content: Quote from: davorin on July 16, 2023, 01:34:53 pmAn MPPT solar charger could be used to do that by replacing the battery with a power shunt regulator.
Solari udine 898V0210 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Cloud
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2015, 08:23:40 pm
content: I managed to save this clock/LED display from trash. Upon further inspection it showed that the inductor and capacitor in the power supply went to electronic heaven. After replacing them it started working and at my surprise the date was correct, but the clock was 54 minutes late. After googling I didn't find anything usefull on how to reprogram RTC, so I am looking for someone to help me with reprograming it.Also if anyone is interested in it, please contact me because I am slowly running out of place for all my salavaged items

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2015, 08:48:45 pm
content: Quote from: Cloud on October 11, 2015, 08:23:40 pmPictures of the PSU will not really help with that, so any other info? Connections, buttons, a picture of the brains?

author: Cloud
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 11:41:52 am
content: It has only DB9 connector on top.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 12:27:16 pm
content: Quote from: Cloud on October 16, 2015, 11:41:52 amRS-232?

author: Cloud
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 01:27:19 pm
content: It's just a connector so I have no idea if it is a RS-232

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 02:52:27 pm
content: Quote from: Cloud on October 16, 2015, 01:27:19 pmYou (or we) can have a guess by looking at where the connections go, so more pictures please
Project: Solartron 7075  GPIB Interface alternative  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: madao
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2024, 09:03:07 am
content: HelloWe have got much 7075 from dutch merchant.I have pick two 7075 with GPIB Modul (70755 ) and it is useless, i can't talk with him ..no response of ack and few line ..I have give it up and make new PCB with UART/RS232 interface.https://github.com/matt1187/7075UARTIt is a early release, it works reliable, but not much function.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2024, 09:25:56 am
content: Maybe a bit late for you, but I uploaded a readable 7075 manual tohttp://bama.edebris.com/manuals/solartron/7075/Plus excellent news: it looks like k04bb's directory has been resurrectedhttp://www.ko4bb.com/getsimple/index.php?id=download&file=06_Misc_Test_Equipment/Solartron/Solartron_7075/Solartron_7075_DVM_Service_Manual_1980.pdf

author: madao
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2024, 10:20:27 am
content: HiI have access to original solartron 7075 Manual and GPIB Interface (70755 )But, GPIB interface didn't answers..

author: theHWcave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2024, 10:08:00 pm
content: Quote from: madao link=topic=441295.msg5661763#msg5661763 date=1727778027I have access to original solartron 7075 Manual and GPIB Interface (70755 )[/quote

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2024, 11:00:11 am
content: should not be totally the casesince the adapter is made with more modern part than the original, maybe around 200 ma now ? or even less ... but there is the ssd1306 ??for sure some current checks should be done ...

author: theHWcave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2024, 12:49:17 pm
content: I agree that a modern replacement would draw much less. I was referring to the very first post that his original 70755 did not work. Since those are power-hungry beasts, my thought was they may not work properly if the parent 7075 power supply isn't prepared for it. However, after quick check of the circuit diagrams of the (rather complex) 7075 power supply, I did not see anything that looked like a "boost" option, so maybe they all were boosted from the factory and the writing on the back was just like a sales pitch for 70755's

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2024, 01:02:30 pm
content: maybe check the xformer specs and or numbers, maybe the "boosted version" have a stronger output tap (s) for the interface ?

author: madao
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2024, 03:27:52 am
content: mine is already boosted for 70755Quote from: theHWcave on October 08, 2024, 10:08:00 pm
Solartron 7075 Power Supply Schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: cbutlera
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2019, 06:16:58 pm
content: I got fed up with not having a schematic for the power supply PCB of my 7075, so I reverse engineered it. The power supply schematic in the 7075 PDF, available on various websites, bears only a superficial resemblance to my unit. I have attached the schematic below, as it may be of help to other 7075 owners with the same power supply. No guarantees, there may be the odd mistake, but I think that it is pretty close.It also gave me the chance to play around a little with KiCad, which I hadn't used before. I didn't use the current version, just V4.0.5 from the Debian Stretch distribution, so I expect I have missed out on a lot of functionality.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2019, 07:25:56 pm
content: Thanks. I wish I had had this when looking at my three 7075!Luckily the PSU wasn't a problem, and I now have two functional 7075s

author: cbutlera
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2019, 08:09:31 pm
content: Quote from: tggzzz on August 25, 2019, 07:25:56 pmYou're welcome. Three! I only have the one, so I am trying to look after it well. I spent some time setting it up with full remote control and logging, so I would be very sad if it suffers a terminal failure.Studying the power supply was part of my unending quest to improve its performance. I am a bit of a low-rent, part-time volt-nut.One thing that I noticed while I was studying the PCB, was that the mounting tab for TR12 (one of the TIP54 drivers for the main transformer) was dangerously close to the pads of C10. I couldn't slip a sheet of paper into the gap. TR13 had a mica insulator, but not TR12. So I added a mica insulator. I don't know if this was just careless assembly of my unit, or perhaps someone got in there, but it is something worth checking.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2019, 09:26:42 pm
content: Two plus bits, and I shotgun replaced the PSU electrolytics, and inserts a diode so the front panel TTL wasn't operating at 5.3VThe metal bits are being incorporated in (non electronic) projects. I'm wondering what to do with the working display panel.As for voltnuttery, your next steps are to get a stable low noise voltage source (which you will canibrate) and a seven decade KVD to allow you to calibrate other ranges and do linearity testsThereafter you can get serious !Don't forget to head over to the TEA thread
Solat Energy harvesting system design - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: freddy12120
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 05, 2015, 08:55:24 pm
content: HelloI have to need some information and how is the good way to design a solar energy harvesting system, I have a project it's about build a wireless sensor network for monitoring quality of water in a river and of course I need to have the system continuously operating, not always at maximum power, ie. sleep mode operation at almost all the time, for that I think use solar energy + lithium battery + maybe supercapacitor and more, for communication I use SIM900 (it is not low powe, I know) and I have some actuators, ie. motors (maybe current peak at 1A in operation), the all node would consume 2A as current peak for many seconds, the all system isn't low power because of actuators and SIM900, I need some help and recommendations in this kind of system, I would think use a solar panel of about 30W or more, and for the charger controller, I don' t know if i must use specific IC or build my own based in MOSFET and MCU, I also think about MPPT.thanks for any recommendations or experiences in this kind of system.
Solder bumps on dies - experience? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: TheUnnamedNewbie
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2021, 08:48:15 am
content: Where I work (research lab) we use flip-chip for high frequency (>100 GHz) ICs. This is done in the lab using gold-ball stud-bumping (Ie, a machine places 50um diameter gold balls on top of the bondpads, and we then thermal-bond the die with bumps to the PCB).This is good for low pin-counts, and small dies, and when you just need to prototype. However, as the pin-count is increasing with system complexity, this is becoming quite the limiting factor (for one because we can't use through-hole parts, which limits us when it comes to rigid connectors which often have alignment pins).The foundries ofcourse offer microbumps or eutectic grown bumps, but they usually have minimum densities which makes it not an option for us (we can't put a bump right on top of a 100 GHz transformer on chip...)So we want to look at adding the solderbumps ourself by hand - any options or suggestsions?

author: amishasingh
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2021, 12:24:32 pm
content: So you are fixed with the size of the chip right. What if you for for multi layering
lab flux type for diff electrical connection purposes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 10:05:19 pm
content: I use 951 for very clean things, like fresh parts with nice PCBhttps://www.kester.com/DesktopModules/Bring2mind/DMX/Download.aspx?Command=Core_Download&EntryId=3764&language=en-US&PortalId=0&TabId=96and 186 for everything elsehttps://www.kester.com/DesktopModules/Bring2mind/DMX/Download.aspx?Command=Core_Download&EntryId=3764&language=en-US&PortalId=0&TabId=96I am particularly interested in thermal performance, like if you need to over-heat your iron to do a big joint. I noticed 186 works well with this, and it says that its good for high temperature, but there are no metrics.Are there even better fluxes stable at higher temperatures?Also,Is it remotely imaginable for you to think that using the same flux pen on different solder compositions like lead free and lead bearing can slowly transfer some kind of soluble ions or dust between the irons over a long time period?

author: mmagin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 10:43:48 pm
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on September 19, 2018, 10:05:19 pmThis is one reason I really like having a iron that has lots of power and good temperature control, like my 30 year old Metcal with one of the bigger chisel tips

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 02:16:43 am
content: Quote from: mmagin on September 19, 2018, 10:43:48 pmI can use my Metcal to solder a PL-259 connector on coax with a 3.2 mm chisel tip without effort.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 09:00:58 pm
content: Most soldering can be made easier by using a shorter and thicker tip for lower thermal resistance and higher thermal capacitance. I have never had problems with PL-259s on my ancient Weller Magnastat irons with a short thick tip.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2018, 12:30:41 am
content: Both of those fluxes will work properly to 500C IME (500C is the max temp on my Quick 861DW). And these two particular fluxes are also compatible with one another, so no issues there.If the flux is turning into a dark baked on crud, then you're staying on the joint too long. Same would happen with any other flux that's heated too long.As others have mentioned, if you're having to crank your iron to make high demand joints, then you should:make sure you're using a tip with sufficient thermal masscheck the actual tip temp vs. set temp, and calibrate the station if necessaryOtherwise your iron just isn't really up to the job and you're running a risk of damaging the PCB by cranking the temp (i.e. time to get a better station).
Solder for High power RF?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2014, 03:11:54 am
content: I have to repair a set of cables for a friend. These are no ordinary cables. They are cables that connect an RF heating generator to a work coil. They are 1/2" wise braided conductors around a center rope or cord of some sort. Some actually have a tube in the center for cooling water. There do not. This is in about the 450khz range at about 5KW. The end that plugs into the generator is a cam lock style arc welding fitting. The work coil end appears to be a piece of copper water pipe, flattened on one end by means of an arbor press, and the cable inserted into the open end and soldered. After years of use and handling of the work coil (It is on a timer that lowers and lifts it according to a schedule) the solder joints have begun to fail and they got hot enough to let go. Is there a type of solder that will be able to handle that kinda power at low RF? Or should I figure out some kind of crimp arrangement? It is an extremely high current arrangement. (Induction heaters tend to be) The 1/2" conductors at the best conditions still get too hot to touch when powered down. Thoughts?

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2014, 03:15:36 am
content: regular solder used in el-cheapo mcu boards works to hundreds of Mhz. so frequency is no concern.if you want your solder to handle 5KW, it is probably not a wise design.

author: 440roadrunner
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2014, 03:27:46 am
content: A photo of what you are up against might help. "Higher temp" solders would probably help, and modern plumbing solders, which contain silver and are lead free are in fact higher tempIf you can do so, use what is INcorrectly used to be called "silver solder" more correctly called "silver braze." When I worked in HVAC / refrigeration, we brazed copper - to copper using a flux free rod known commonly (around here) by one of it's brand names, "Sil-Fos." Bear in mind that this IS a brand name and they make all sorts of other products. I'm referring to the hi temp brazing rodhttp://www.silfos.com/products/catalog/Sil-Fos-Silvaloy-orderby0-p-1-c-55.htmlYou can also use Sil-Fos for added filler / strength after establishing a base of silver - braze (with flux) when doing things like brazing copper to steel. To do a good job you need an oxy/ acetylene torch.

author: Jebnor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2014, 04:01:56 am
content: This is something forAndyDaviesByTheSea. He used to do this for a living. He's retired now.

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2014, 04:40:06 am
content: Quote from: 440roadrunner on February 14, 2014, 03:27:46 amWe have oxygen torches around the shop. We use them for hard glass sealing. I may try to find some to try. I may also try putting it in a 4 jaw chuck and closing it on the copper tube to crimp it, then flow and fill the joint.
Solder LQFP 0.4mm to TQFP 0.5mm? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: joveaaron
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 29, 2023, 08:45:22 pm
content: I ordered an EP952 and I have some TQFP 0.5mm pitch breakout boards, but the IC is LQFP64 has 0.4mm pitch. My question is if the tolerance between 0.4 to 0.5mm will bridge any pins, in that case, should I order a specific breakout board?Thanks

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2023, 08:51:04 pm
content: Of course it won't fit??

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2023, 09:20:47 pm
content: Do the math! Five 0.4 mm pitch pins will occupy four 0.5 mm pitch pads, aligned center to center every fifth pin and fourth pad. That's too much misalignment even for 8 pin packages.Also I wouldn't expect an analog video processor to work properly without good decoupling close to its power pins and probably a ground plane, so you should strongly consider laying out and ordering an application specific breakout PCB, with decoupling on board, rather than looking for a generic 0.4 mm LQFP breakout.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2023, 10:53:15 pm
content: Quote from: joveaaron on November 29, 2023, 08:45:22 pmA breakout board? Like a generic board that just fans out the pins to headers? If so, you can forget that idea right away, because that chip is an HDMI interface, and HDMI requires careful PCB layout. A generic breakout board simply isn’t going to work.

author: MarkT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2023, 10:30:00 pm
content: Also 0.4mm pitch is a lot more demanding than 0.5mm pitch - what soldering method are you using?
Solder lug lock washer for panel-mount SMA connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: matthuszagh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2024, 02:22:13 am
content: I'm building a really simple resistive load for power supply noise measurements. One of my requirements is that all connections between power supply, load, and measuring device be shielded to avoid noise pickup. My plan was to fasten a wirewound resistor to the inside of a diecast enclosure and use a panel-mount SMA connector for the power supply and measuring device connections (I was going to use an SMA tee to allow connections to both). Because I'm not too worried about adding inductance to the load (it's already a wirewound resistor after all), I was going to solder one side of the resistor to a solder lug lock washer (something likehttps://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/keystone-electronics/7316/316689but of the appropriate hole diameter). The other side, of course, would solder to the SMA center pin.However, my searches haven't turned up much, except for this:https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803753366565.html. I don't really want to wait that long for something though.I don't really want to deal with coaxial cable on the inside. The pig tail would be pretty long to reach both ends of the resistor, and it just seems unnecessary.Another option is I could try to solder a wire to the inside of the enclosure right next to the coaxial connector, but IIRC people have told me soldering to aluminum isn't easy.Or, I could just wrap wire around the threaded portion of the SMA connector on the inside of the enclosure and just fasten a nut on top of it, but that seems like it could come out.Anyone know of something I could use? Or, is there a better way to do this?

author: fourfathom
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2024, 03:02:30 am
content: Something like this?The SMA jack washer has an inside diameter of 0.262" (or 6.65mm), so a ring terminal for a 1/4" stud should fit.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2024, 10:41:34 am
content: just drill some crap outyou can literary take a piece of copper sheet, drill a hole in it by sandwiching it between two pieces of wood and solder to it. you can even file the edges off to make it a more palatable shape that is if you don't have a lug you can enlarge. you can even get lower inductance if you drill out a strip and route it to where it needs to be then using a wire, just throw some heat shrink over it. the only trick is to have a sharp drill bit because a old ass worn out one will mangle the hole in thin material

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2024, 11:22:30 am
content: You don’t need the solder lug and lock washer to be the same item. You can just use a lock washer and a separate lug. Mount them so the lock washer is between the case and the lug, so its teeth bite into both.
solder mask and mounting holes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: phil from seattle
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2020, 09:27:11 pm
content: I was watching a video and as an aside it was mentioned that solder mask around mounting holes was undesirable. He didn't really explain it very well - something about it causing problems with the FR4. I've never heard that and suspect it is bull. Did a google search and came up empty so thought I'd ask here. I am assuming there are no traces or ground plane under where the screw head will be. Why would it matter if mask was there or not?

author: The Doktor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2020, 02:54:57 am
content: Perhaps the screw rotating on the mask would cause it to start peeling?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 03, 2020, 03:09:09 am
content: It does not matter really. At most, signs of mechanical damage from tightening the screws will be more noticeable. Removing it helps to see where screws should go.

author: phil from seattle
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2020, 09:52:49 pm
content: Yeah, I am pretty sure the guy was just making it up. As to locating the mounting holes, I would hope that the hole itself makes it pretty obvious. Though to be honest, after having sold several hundred of my CNC breakout boards I find the talent of missing the most blindingly obvious points to be pretty widespread. Maybe I should put it on the silkscreen?
Solder Mask Question. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: kvresto
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2015, 03:03:50 am
content: Hi Everyone.How do I stop my board manufacturer from applying solder mask to my fills on the top layer which I use to extend some footprint a bit so I can solder them successfully on my bench. Obviously the mask is not applied on the pads themselves, but I don't want to be modifying my libraries. I've included a pic which shows how I've used fills to extend my footprints particularly around the caps and inductors.Thanks for your help.Kvresto.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2015, 03:16:41 am
content: It's different from one CAD to another. Just find a layer you can add filled shapes on and include them in your soldermask layer gerber.

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2015, 03:17:35 am
content: There's a layer in Altium named "top solder"/"top mask" or something along those lines; just draw a filled rectangle on that layer and that rectangle will have no solder mask on it. In other words, where there is an object on the top mask layer, the top copper will be bare (provided there's copper there as well, of course!).

author: kvresto
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2015, 09:16:47 am
content: Thanks all, got it.kvresto
Solder Pad dimensions for component with castellated mounting holes  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sdim
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2021, 03:22:17 pm
content: Hi!I want to use a component that has castellated mounting holes.The component has 1.27mm pitch (0.01 inch) and each pad is 0.84 x 1.22 (including the semi-circle cut).The design should be good for both hand soldering and for reflow soldering.Are there any design guidelines for the solder pads dimensions (widgh, height,padding, etc)?
Soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ssport
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 23, 2024, 11:13:56 am
content: Hi,I am new in this and I would like to ask you if this is soldered well.It was soldered, then broken and than I soldered it by myself.I am working on a product which is not working, so I was curious maybe its soldered wrong. The pins are ok just the way of soldering.Thank you.

author: microbug
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2024, 11:22:55 am
content: I wouldn't say it's soldered well, but it should be working.There is not enough solder on the white wire, and too much solder on the red and black wires. You might need to use some solder wick. I'd also recommend cleaning the flux residue off with isopropyl alcohol or flux cleaner, it prevents possible corrosion in the future and makes the photo clearer for us.

author: Randy222
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2024, 04:01:20 pm
content: Quote from: ssport on February 23, 2024, 12:40:33 pmUse DMM Ohms mode and see what continuity is.When you say "not working", you mean it's not working with the dslr?Maybe it's wired wrong? I had wiring wrong when I did a remote trigger project using a Canon dslr.

author: Randy222
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2024, 05:26:18 pm
content: Quote from: ssport on February 23, 2024, 04:37:28 pmDMM beep mode, or you can use Ohms and look for zero.https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-for-continuityhttps://www.wikihow.com/Test-Continuity-with-a-MultimeterAre you making a circuit to control dslr, or are you just fixing a wire?
Soldering 6-pin .5mm pitch DFE (SON) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: microbug
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2015, 05:50:34 pm
content: I'm designing a 4s 18650 protection pcb, which has 4 bq29703 protection ICs in (they are single cell ICs so one per cell). These have 6 pins and control two MOSFETs, controlling charging or discharging.The bq29703 has a DFE package, which is leadless with a 0.5mm pin pitch (datasheet with drawings. I have a Hakko FX-888D soldering station and an ATTEN 858D heat gun. Do you think I could realistically solder this by hand? I've done SOT23-6 packages before but that's the smallest I've gone.Thanks,microbug

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2015, 06:00:08 pm
content: Easy. Solder paste and hot air.cheers,george.

author: microbug
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2015, 06:08:04 pm
content: Thanks! Just wanted verification.
Soldering a SMD module with a PCB to a PCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jmaja
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 06:50:21 pm
content: How can this be done, especially the ones with a bottom GND or other pads. Datasheets are for reflow, which isn't available for prototyping.Are the components on the module soldered with normal materials, which will also reflow in the oven. Or do they use higher temperature solder. If I try to solder one with e.g. a hot air, will I desolder the components on the module? E.g.http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/Atmel-42498-SAMB11-MR210CA-MR510_Datasheet.pdf
Soldering DC charger to F-type connector cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Uner
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2024, 05:42:59 am
content: Hi,I want to solder a new charger like this:So I think I need to buy 14V 1A+ AC/DC charger and solder it to F-type connector,But I'm not sure where should I solder the GND to on the connectorAnd if I solder the DC charger to the wire itself which of the parts is the GND? (The Aluminum shield?)Thanks.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2024, 05:52:49 am
content: Aluminum is not easy to solder and the central connector may be copper plated steel. You might be able to solder to a standard connector and the center conductor, then heat shrink over it.

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2024, 06:21:48 am
content: find correct female F connector, wire to charger.YOU CANT SOLDER TO THIS CABLEOnly crimpj

author: Uner
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2024, 08:11:20 am
content: Thanks for your reply,jpanhalt, What do you mean by a "standard connector"?jonpaul, How do I know which is the "correct" female f connector?

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2024, 08:27:51 am
content: F Jack Panel Mount F-61 Connector Solder Type Chassisvery common see local electronic disty or Amazon, ebay etc.j

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2024, 10:14:26 am
content: Quote from: Uner on May 21, 2024, 08:11:20 amI meant a connector plated with a solderable metal, like nickel. I suspect that's common. Then, solder a wire to the connector and crimp that to your Type F coax shield.A female connector, as shown by jonpaul, could be soldered to the leads from your power supply. Then use a gender changer to get the male Type F . They are about $6 at Amz.
Soldering in high-humidity (80% RH) environments? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: victorhooi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2024, 06:59:18 am
content: I'm doing an LED strip install in a very cold and humid environment.I was told by the customers that the strips wouldn't get wet, and they didn't need IP-rated strips...but let's just say that's not entirely true.Anyway, in terms of soldering wires to the end - I'm also having issues soldering on 16 AWG wires to the copper contacts on the strips.The RH (relative humidity is around 80%), and there's also lots of water condensation on the surfaces:I do seem to be having a lot of trouble getting a good solid solder joint - and even then, it's not a nice shiny silver colour.Has anybody soldered much in high-humidity environments, and do you have any advice?Also - what exactly is happening here, from a physical/chemical POV?Finally - from what I've read, the flux is somewhat hygroscopic, so it's causing to cause issues with the ambient humidity. Does anybody know more about how flux reacts in high-humidity (>= 80% RH) as well?

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2024, 07:13:16 am
content: When stuff is stored moist or wet, copper or component platings will oxidate and you will never be able to solder to them correctly.The parts need to be scrapped.Maybe, you could do something if you add extra paste flux, but it needs to be dry first.So, either dry this, with hot air? Or solder before mounting in the wet space.But if it condeses this wet, it will not have a long life...

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2024, 08:23:21 am
content: With that level of condensation/moisture the LED strips are not going to survive very long.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2024, 09:44:36 am
content: Cleaning the surfaces with a bit of sandpaper can really help too, before using flux as well.I know some wire types, can be horrible to solder to. Like I have some cheap, male barrel jacks, like for 12V, and it has what looks like tinned silvery stranded wire. And even with good flux that works on everything, this stuff will barely take solder.

author: Zipdox
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2024, 06:40:10 pm
content: This is a perfect task for a fiberglass pen. They are made for cleaning contacts. That being said, in the pictures it looks like the strips are stuck to aluminum. That's gonna suck away a lot of heat, especially if wet. You could preheat the area with a hot air gun or hairdryer.