Helping hands good or bad? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 02:56:16 am
content: I guess it depends on your point of view. I have received all as gifts, one day I decided to use them. Here is what I came up with....mike

author: Mint.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 03:07:35 am
content: They are hopeless! I used to have one, fell over all the time when I poked it with a soldering iron!

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 03:10:13 am
content: Which is why I ripped them all apart and put them back together, my way.Have a look at the picture....mike

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 03:10:39 am
content: Heh heh, cute! I find helping hands both useful and also annoyingly fiddly. I would love some properly engineered helping hands devices with good, secure, finely adjustable arms; but I suspect if I want such a thing I will have to make it myself.

author: MrPlacid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 03:32:39 am
content: I modified mine as well

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 03:47:06 am
content: Quote from: MrPlacid on May 14, 2012, 03:32:39 amFantastic lego, I should have done that. Very Funny.I also have a couple standard bean bags on my bench, I use them to keep things from sliding around. They work great. Love the lego....mike

author: MrPlacid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 04:01:28 am
content: Thanks, my nephews like it too.By the way, I came up with a trick to hold things bigger than the jaw using a shoelace string.

author: David Aurora
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 04:04:28 am
content: Quote from: IanB on May 14, 2012, 03:10:39 amAgreed. If I had some that did what they were told, I'd use them all the time. But I don'tThe only nice thing about mine is the sponge holder in the base. Whenever I trim component legs I chuck the off cuts in there and use them whenever I need PCB jumpers. So the thing isn't COMPLETELY useless!

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 05:31:20 am
content: Quote from: David Aurora on May 14, 2012, 04:04:28 amIf I find the inventor of unhelpful hands, and if it turns out he is already dead, I would ask for a court order to dig up his corps, put it against a wall, shoot it with a silver bullet, and dig it in again.

author: Mint.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 06:15:00 am
content: Quote from: pickle9000 on May 14, 2012, 03:10:13 amOh! So you added those metal weights to them?

author: siliconmix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 08:35:11 am
content: you can't beat some bluetack

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 08:55:38 am
content: Quote from: siliconmix on May 14, 2012, 08:35:11 amTotally agree, plus a decent ball-swivel vice (clamp-down, not suction) for heavier stuff.Lab retort stands and clamps are also useful sometimes.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 10:46:20 am
content: Quote from: Mint. on May 14, 2012, 03:07:35 amthat is called "immitation" helping hand. and i suspect just like others who gave the same comments about its uselessness. do you know people when you have immitation or not? i got mine from zerphtronixbut any day if i need one more HH, i'll just get from nearest local store or ebay chinese. i believe it can be hacked, add some weight to it if not enough umphh.picture below is my recent use of HH while painting some of my diy pcb (pls note the torch light is totally off the ground). and in relation with the following comments from the other thread. another important aspect for me that heavy clamp (i have one, but only for heavy stuff) doesnt have is portability. HH can be moved anyway very very quickly, and i believe it is meant for that, and i never scratch my pcb copper with the clipper, never have frequent need for soft cotton covering the clip either. but then i guess... YMMV.ps: btw i find the magnifier on it is pretty darwinian useless though.Quote from: Monkeh on May 14, 2012, 09:45:34 am

author: David Aurora
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 12:11:43 pm
content: Quote from: BoredAtWork on May 14, 2012, 05:31:20 am

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 06:33:11 pm
content: Quote from: pickle9000 on May 14, 2012, 02:56:16 amOH man , T-862! How are you, loving it?

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 08:18:25 pm
content: Quote from: Dave.S on May 14, 2012, 06:33:11 pmIt is very good, it does it's intended job. I bought this as a backup and when I retired (sold my business) I took this and some other stuff with me. It's fails in a couple respects. The actual temp readings are not taken from the board / chip. I just use a non-contact thermometer and adjust it to that. The melting point of the solder is best done by eye and is easy to see, I think this is true for most systems to reduce component damage. The soldering iron is Chinese but does control well and has a rubber cord, not that it ever gets used. It's over 2 years old and no problems at all.I sound a bit critical but only because the other one I used was very expensive 9000.00+ usd. I think is was den-on but don't quote me on that. That said the big difference is that this is a manual machine and the other was semi automated. I have reflowed an entire 3x3 inch board with no issues. That is as good as the other machine.I would add that for one off's this is a fast machine, very quick setup. It does require a minimal amount of skill to operate. I certainly would not ever go without one now that I have one. A very handy bit of gear....mike

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 02:11:56 am
content: Sorry I forgot the picture. Read the post above for details, it's bga reflow machine....mike

author: Hypernova
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 05:08:10 am
content: Quote from: Dave.S on May 14, 2012, 06:33:11 pmI got the 4-in-1 model and you can see the unboxing threadhere

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 05:46:11 am
content: Mines probably a bit older, have you had any technical problems?The build quality seems to be fine and bulbs are easy to get. The case is very heavy duty. When I ordered it I asked for a spare cable (the metal one for the lamp) and they just sent one with it no charge. Pretty nice actually, I'm pretty sure I was dealing with the OEM but it's hard to tell with this stuff....mike

author: Hypernova
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 06:47:12 am
content: The silicone seal around the preheater gives off a noxious smell when used, I spent 2hrs in a well ventilated area burning that in to get rid of it. You can see from the photo it was also missing screw but I found a replacement. The soldering iron controller seems to give ERR message all the time but since I brought the thing to work and we got proper irons there I ignored it. Possibly the oddest thing is the way the IR works. The temp setting is bogus, it's actually more of a 2 sec period PWM. Why they aren't using 100Hz PWM to drive it is a mystery to me.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 08:49:22 am
content: Quote from: Hypernova on May 15, 2012, 06:47:12 amBecause of the way they switch the triac

author: jerry507
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 02:55:08 pm
content: I love them for holding wires to tin them. Basically the only good use for them as far as I'm concerned.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 03:44:26 pm
content: I'll reply about the rework station in the other thread to keep this one from getting (waaaayy) off topic. You can find it here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/general-chat/thoughts-on-this-3-in-1-ir-rework-station-*now-with-unboxing!!!*

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 03:50:07 pm
content: Quote from: jerry507 on May 15, 2012, 02:55:08 pmAnd solder them together, but my alligator clips go loose after some time ... I think epoxy might be involved in the next equation

author: Hypernova
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 04:01:56 pm
content: If I have to tin wires I put them at the edge of the table and keep them down with something heavy.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 04:53:21 pm
content: Quote from: Hypernova on May 15, 2012, 04:01:56 pmThat is ultimate but when i started out i had the unhelping and ungrateful hands already, it was something i mistakenly bought in the first placebut there was no one to guide me and thinking where i was going, i now feel kind of happy i walked down this path, i'm the only engineer in my extended familyOOPS OT!

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 05:59:06 pm
content: A tip for you guys, if you work on a really tiny PCB it goes all over the place, to keep that steady you can use one of these PCB holders:Universal PCB Holder Station Repair Tool For PDA Mp3 Mobile Phoneit is only around 4 USD and has 4 rubber pads under.Here is mine with a old 4mb compact flash disk PCB and a 2 euro coin for size indication:

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 06:10:24 pm
content: Quotethere! i also got one. never liked the original spring. modded with shorter spring and just slide the "metal with screw to fit", tossed the original spring to i dont know where already. occasionally in action, but when the pcb got peculiar components like big caps or tall heat sink upside down, no rig or clamp will do, helping hand still comes to the rescue. but for stability, this small jig holder wins the HH both hands down for most smd parts small pcb.

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 06:25:26 pm
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on May 15, 2012, 06:10:24 pmI got a bigger PCB holder for that kind a work it can hold a euro size PCB (10cm x 16cm) if the caps are lower than 10cm it works quite goodPosted here before:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/pcb-board-holder-what-are-you-using/msg105313/#msg105313

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 06:31:38 pm
content: Those little cell phone PCB holders are really good. I put the little sticky feet on them to keep em from sliding. For small stuff they are way better than the Pana's I have. Except for one of my larger ones all of the Panavice stuff is overpriced and normally requires mechanical mounting of the base. Weller has some very nice board holders.I also recommend getting a standoff kit. They are solid and are great if you have mounting holes. I use screw on rubber feet for the non-slip action. Put them on the top of the board or both sides. If I'm working on a project for a while this is cheap and reliable solution.http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Brass-Hex-Stand-Off-Pillars-and-Screw-Assorted-Kit-/400291827814?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d33409066As for the helping hands, I can't think of anyone involved in electronics that has not bought, been given, touched, knocked over when you didn't want to, hated, and actually used successfully at some point. Personally I do use them when needed, I do wish they where better. As a wire holder they are fine. Will they end up in Silicon Hell (like the photocopiers) or end up in Silicon Heaven (with the iron and the lamp)?...mike

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 06:37:56 pm
content: Aoyue has a somewhat similar "working" platformhttp://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/aoyue-326-versatile-pcb-working-platform-.htmlwith magnets instead of springs. And with some less than useful clamps. The magnets works ok for lightweight PCBs but you quickly get in trouble with heavier PCBs or if you need to do any mechanical work.Aoyue also has this onehttp://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/aoyue-328-working-platform.htmlfor a little bit larger PCBs. But that platform contains a lot of plastic. Not too good for hot air work.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 06:57:07 pm
content: That 328 looks interesting I haven't seen that design before. I really like that slot along the back edge it looks like a good place to put a board with controls on it....mike

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 07:19:24 pm
content: Quote from: pickle9000 on May 15, 2012, 06:57:07 pmThe slot on the back is for holding a fume extractor. But that makes the thing really bulky and these fume extractors don't work very well.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aoyue-488-Working-Platform-Smoke-AbsorberFume-Extractor-/270595309362Of course you can put everything you like there instead.There is also a version with a cheap PSU in the backhttp://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/aoyue-398-working-platform.htmlBut a separate lab PSU is a better idea.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 07:35:16 pm
content: Man let me tell you what i use.Both a suction base ball swivel holder and a unhelpful hand.Meanwhile while waiting to gather up money for my next biggest purchase, i bought a 2$ temporary corkboard to put on my bench

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 07:49:00 pm
content: Suction base on corkboard (sounds funny and very sad).I do have a pretty well equipped lab myself, but I've been collecting a long time....mike

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 07:55:20 pm
content: Quote from: pickle9000 on May 15, 2012, 07:49:00 pmDon't look at meI have not got my esd dissipative mat yet so my suction base is pointless but i bought it because it was bigger then the table clamp one but i will try and use the suction base on the esd dissipative mat so yeah

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 08:06:20 pm
content: This does not tip or move. low profile panavise base on a 7" x 7.5" x 3/4" steel plate.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 08:12:10 pm
content: That's the way they should be sold....mike

author: Mint.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 11:36:17 pm
content: Quote from: pickle9000 on May 15, 2012, 08:12:10 pmAgreed! Altough imagine the shipping costs for the weight of the steel base!

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 11:47:02 pm
content: Quote from: Mint. on May 15, 2012, 11:36:17 pmPractically nothing compared to the cost of the vise. Man that could do damage if dropped....mike

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 11:52:43 pm
content: Quote from: Dave.S on May 15, 2012, 07:55:20 pmA nice flat chunk of steel like robrenz and your vise should be good to go. Suction bases need a rigid surface and steel is static dissipative....mike

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 01:10:58 am
content: My steel plate was free (leftover stock from a job) but you can get the model 310 surface plate baseplate from panavise. The only problem is its around $99.00See all their stuff herehttp://www.panavise.com/index.html?pageID=1&id1=1&startat=1&--woSECTIONSdatarq=1&--SECTIONSword=ww

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 01:26:34 am
content: Quote from: pickle9000 on May 15, 2012, 08:12:10 pmright, you pay! industry has been known to follow exponential law... price = (metal volume)^N. where N > 1

author: sonicj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 02:12:28 am
content: you can use a c-clamp with those, but I don't like working that close to the edge of my desk.Anyone know how do these magnetic bases with the on/off switch function?Link-sj

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 02:18:22 am
content: A magnetic base switch just moves a magnet inside the housing. They need physical contact with a steel plate to work but the grip is very good. Find a place that sells machine tools and you should be able to pick up a base for under 10 bucks easy. They have a standard thread mount for measuring equipment....mike

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 02:25:52 am
content: Quote from: robrenz on May 16, 2012, 01:10:58 amI bet I could get it for a half case of beer from a local machine shop + 1 beer for each hole needed....mike

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 11:49:38 am
content: Sometimes the panavise on the plate is just too big and clumsy for what I am trying to do. So I have this delicate ultra precision workholder that I use in those instances. The only problem is that it is a little shaky being mounted on that 21" x 39" x 2" thick solid cast iron bench top that is bolted to the wall studs and the bench. If it was a little more rigid I would consider it perfect. Notice how perfectly it holds the 8 pin dip. Shipping costs might be a small issue since the bench top alone weighs over 300 pounds.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 11:56:58 am
content: Wow, seeing the photos of your work on other topics, robrenz, not only are they functional but beautiful!I just ziptie the feet to a lead weight, it will save $$$ in S&H you can buy them at Walmart either for exercise or from a scuba store.Fits the helping hand nicely, due to the long slots:No mounting, just add where you need weight, lead shot, soft weights.Quote from: robrenz on May 15, 2012, 08:06:20 pm

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 12:04:05 pm
content: Quote from: saturation on May 16, 2012, 11:56:58 amThanks saturation, much more to come but that darn "real work" keeps getting in the way.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 12:35:09 pm
content: Just in case this turns into "who has the biggest"9" x 20" capacity on my mill

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 12:39:35 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on May 16, 2012, 11:49:38 amThis thread is becoming hilarious, let me join you Robrenz, our difference is I got a shrink ray here...j/k

author: sonicj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 12:45:11 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on May 16, 2012, 11:49:38 amI dig the soft jaws! Did you make those yourself? Copper?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 12:55:34 pm
content: Quote from: sonicj on May 16, 2012, 12:45:11 pmThey are purchased. Fortunately about 30 years ago, $90.00 for my 5" size, are you kidding? Yes copper.http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerce/NavigationServlet/Clamping-Workholding-Positioning/Vises/Jaws-Jaw-Caps/Jaws-Jaw-Caps/_/N-77dlk?refinement=4290203768&searchandizedOk=Y

author: sonicj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 02:04:38 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on May 16, 2012, 12:55:34 pmDang!Feeling inspired after seeing your copper soft jaws, i headed down to garage and made these... Might be too soft/slippery to be practical for that size vise, but at least i'll have learned something.-sj

author: sonicj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 02:07:54 pm
content: I made this from locline and a outdoor electrical box filled with lead weights. It sucks.-sj

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 02:19:30 pm
content: Nice soft jaws!Now that I see that a plate of copper 12" x 12" x 1/8" is $92.45 I guess that price isn't so bad.I would have thought the locline would have worked well for light things. Maybe you need a much heavier & wider base so it stays still when you manipulate the loclines.

author: sonicj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 02:59:00 pm
content: Thanx!The base is plenty heavy.... I wanted to save real estate, so i went with a 4" base and filled it up with lead. The problem is the fine adjustability of the locline. Helping hands are a PITA to manipulate, but hold their positions once set. The Locline is a little less of a PITA to manipulate, but you have to overshoot your desired position of the clip as the arms tend to spring back once you let go.-sj

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 05:17:08 pm
content: Quote from: saturation on May 16, 2012, 11:56:58 amSo these things are from a scuba shop? I have some bean bags I use when I'm in a rush (almost daily) and these look really good for extra weight on the top of the board. Are they expensive?...mike

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 05:32:16 pm
content: robrenzI bet your mill vise cost more than my entire mill conversion (cost of the mill included).When I was working I did a fair number of repairs on some haas mills. The displays had some problems, of course that is always emergency work. I find it quite relaxing to work in the middle of the night on equipment. I actually got a hug from the owner on one occasion when the machine was up (kinda weird, but he was having a really bad day)....mike

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 06:03:18 pm
content: They are 3 Parlec 6" wide x 9" opening vises. Got them on sale for $359.00 each about 6 years ago IIRC. Machined them square on the outside and glued rails on the perimeter to enable attaching the custom stainless chip pan with flat head screws.

author: MikeK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 06:11:07 pm
content: Krikey...that vise is so big it has its own lamp attached. I love it!

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 06:56:58 pm
content: Scuba weights ~ $5/lb.You can make your own using nylon bags and lead shot weight. I use the soft ones too as they will conform to the shape of what you are using.You can buy lead shot in bulk, for example:http://www.amazon.com/Magnum-Lead-Shot-08-Lbs/dp/B001QV1A2O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1337193793&sr=8-3Then bag it yourself. For lead weight, other options are industrial suppliers you can buy from, or have a sports or gunshop nearby [ used for making shotgun ammo]. The killer in buying lead online is shipping weight, so its often cheaper to buy retail as retailers get a break on bulk shipping.http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/search.cmd?form_state=searchForm&N=0&fsch=true&Ntk=AllProducts&Ntt=lead+shot&x=0&y=0Quote from: pickle9000 on May 16, 2012, 05:17:08 pm

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 07:18:34 pm
content: On passing, another option I've seen somewhere is using a pickup industrial magnet, as added weight. The benefit is if you mount it well you can also stick the hand it to metal surfaces, even enclosures when working inside them, for whatever reason. I don't use it because of risk of erasing magnetic media I use in my lab.http://www.amazon.com/Master-Magnetics-07503-Heavy-Duty-Retrieving/dp/B000I1TFCK/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1337195830&sr=1-3

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 08:37:50 pm
content: robenz, how long does it take to remove and put on another fixture? Looks heavy too. I guess my mill was more expensive.saturation, I think magnets are bad news as well. I try to keep them far away from the bench (other than a small pickup tool). I should be able to get the shot easy enough, this is Canada we have more than enough gunshops around. I have a scuba shop close by as well so I think I'll pop in and give that a quick check there as well. On the other hand I could sew some up and put some no-slip on them to improve the usefulness....mike

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2012, 11:47:22 pm
content: Quote from: pickle9000 on May 16, 2012, 08:37:50 pmI never remove the vise/chip pan assembly, it has been on since I installed it. 99% of my work is doable in the vises. If not I grab a fixture plate in the vises and work on top of that.robrenz

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2012, 03:37:35 am
content: Did you cut the chip pan from solid material or was it made up from a sheet? I have heard stainless is a pain to mill.One place I was in used a vacuum system to hold the fixtures in. They let me try and push it around and man that was an amazing system. Just a minimal amount of vac was all it needed.I can do the electronics but have only basic knowledge about the machining side. The reason I got one here (a toy really) is just to learn more about the actual machining and programming.One quick bit on clamping. The biggest clamp I ever got to play with was on a Plasser Butt Welder, it's used to weld rail (railway rail). In normal operation it could pull 80 ton in one go but was also capable of what was called a super pull 120 ton. This is an arc welder that worked by grabbing to rails and tapping them together in a specific sequence. The arc would spin around the edge of the cut track at about 10hz once nice and hot both end would be compressed (80 ton) together (when I say pull this is what I am referring to). Pretty cool, the clamp was about 6 foot long on each track and the machine was the size of 3 1/2 locomotives. The pull ram was massive. The machine needed a new opamp on a sequencer board. I always find that funny, pennies for parts but shipping is a killer, CNR brought the unit and operator out from Ontario to BC for me to repair....mike

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2012, 04:31:01 am
content: I use these two items combined with a heavy plate as a base for all prototyping work. For mass production I make custom jigs much faster.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2012, 05:12:17 am
content: Is the clamp attached to the camera mount? How is it configured. Got a picture of it in action.As for production-testing-repair, jigs or simulators, I agree 100% you really do need a custom setup, even in a small production situation it will save pain....mike

author: Fishplate42
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2012, 10:14:41 am
content: Hello I am new here, My introduction isHERE.I had a problem with my helping hands and cured it easily by screwing it to an off-cut of MDFMore infoon MY BLOGBTW, for non UK readers the title of the post on my blog is from a very popular advertising campaign here in the UK - Just Google "meerkat, simples" and you will see what I meanRalph

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2012, 10:27:55 am
content: Quote from: pickle9000 on May 17, 2012, 03:37:35 am16GA sheet. most stainless is tougher to mill (tends to work harden) but 416 stainless is like butter.Ok your clamp trumps my visesrobrenz

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2012, 02:42:58 pm
content: Pretty sure I have a set of helping hands somewhere.......My method is to use a scrap piece of board or the old pallet i use as a sacrificial worktop, along with whatever is handy to hold down stuff ( currently a rail slipper is a good hold down for almost anything that it does not crush) for working on. Most of my soldering is with silphos rods on copper piping at the moment, electronics does not work well with an acetylene torch, though it will do a real quick desolder job.

author: Cybeonix
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 24, 2012, 07:54:08 pm
content: Some of the helping hands are bigger and don't tip over as easily. With the small ones, I find the magnifier just gets in the way, so I ripped mine off.