How do you solder and/or desolder some plastic component? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rozeh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 07:45:37 am
content: Hi everybodylook at picturei have problem to solder or desolder some components like this(Sim-card holder, SD-card holder and etc).how do you solder and/or desolder some plastic component?

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 07:51:31 am
content: to start off, that is a very crappy imageas far as soldering, you can either hand solder or possibly reflow, most of them are made to survive reflow in an oven,as far as desoldering, if you have a wide nozzle hot air gun, put excess solder on all the pads, hold one end with pliers and apply heat, it will become loose and can be lifted off,otherwise use braid to thin out but not completly remove all the solder on the pins, lift from one end and run down the rows away from where your providing a force, the pins will spring up one by one allowing the further ones to lift, resulting in the whole part being free after you run down both sides,

author: rozeh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 09:22:48 am
content: Thanks Rerouter for reply,i already saw some Dave's soldering clips(in youtube page) but unfortunately i couldn't found any technique for solving this problem.for applying your technique, i think i should be professional.i wonder, how do solder the manufactures these components?

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 09:47:07 am
content: The manufacturers use a re-flow oven, essentially a hot environment which ramps up at a controlled rate, until the solder paste melts, thus soldering the pieces followed by a slow cool down for it to set, this can be about 280C for a few minutesAs far as hand soldering, i will admit these pieces are not exactly in the first 3 things you should be soldering as a beginner, but they are far from needing professional skills to accomplish,the golden rules are clean your pads before soldering, and clean your component legs before soldering if they have become tarnished,then hold the part in place some how, clean your iron tip, hold the tip in contact with the pin / pad (both ideally but this scale one will generally suffice) then add a small amount of solder and see if the joint looks sufficient for a good connection,now if you have a clean tip, clean pads and clean part legs and half decent solder with a flux core it should go very painlessly, just remember to only add solder after the tip makes contact, that way you don't get what is known as a dry joint,A dry joint happens when the flux in the solder mix does not strip the layer off oxide off the pads / part legs, which can result in the solder happily joining to one part, e.g. the pad, but while overlapping the pin leg is electrically isolated from the pad by the oxide layer, leaving solder on your iron for more than about 10 seconds will evaporate this flux, (the smoke you see) thus leaving none to clean either surface.I may have come across a bit overbearing with that ^ but i felt i would get you up to speed on the little tricks if you where not already aware,

author: rozeh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 09:17:51 am
content: Thank you Rerouter!

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 09:49:38 am
content: Preheater and 250-260C hot air.

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 05:50:53 pm
content: If you havnt got a hot air station you could try Chip Quik SMD removal Kit .Heres a youtube vid how it works :Its available at many places . Chip Quik SMD1