hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Identifying a component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 14, 2014, 09:31:10 pm
content: Hi guys,What is the component in blue "plastic"? - The board is a voltage regulator for two LED-displays. Actually for this PSUhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/old-school-psu/There is a 12V transformer feeding the board, two bridge rectifiers, two LM7805 regulators (on heatsinks), and a couple of caps. What type of caps are the small grey one?

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 14, 2014, 10:00:37 pm
content: Thanks for your reply.The blue thingie, i've got a picture more - Looks like some metal-plates stacked together?

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2014, 10:15:32 pm
content: It is a film capacitor.I think Siemens used to make them 30 odd year agoNot unlike a "green cap" but of lower inductance design.All "plates" in the capacitor are parallel and inter digitated thus reducing inductance of the component as opposed to some film capacitors where the two electrodes are simply wound around a central former producing a capacitor with lower frequency self resonance.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2014, 07:26:40 pm
content: Siemens Stacked film capacitor. Made by winding the 2 foils onto a large diameter mandrel, and then spray coating the ends with metal. Then you cut the complete wheel into individual capacitor, weld the leads on and then for the blue ones they have a coating of epoxy applied on the ends to improve the lead security. They are pretty good film capacitors, but suffer from issues in high humidity as they are not sealed.
Identifying a connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Mikey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2019, 04:46:47 pm
content: I just started a project, where I will make a new controller for my air condition.The simplest way I found to do this, was to just disconnect the existing controller, and keep all the high voltage control as it was.To control fans and compressor, I got a 5 pin connector with gnd, 5v, fan high, fan low, and compressor.I tried to google 5pin connector, and also tried with locking connector. I tried to find it on digikey too, where I am pretty sure it will actually be, but I think it is drowning in all the results.Does anyone know what type connector this is?

author: mikeybarber
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 18, 2019, 05:05:28 pm
content: Things that might help:1) Measure the pitch as exactly as you can. Have a micrometer?2) Zoom in on any special markings on the housing.

author: Domagoj T
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2019, 05:08:03 pm
content: Perhaps FAF B250009http://en.famfull.com/prod_view.aspx?TypeId=182&Id=268&FId=t3:182:3

author: Mikey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2019, 05:20:58 pm
content: Quote from: mikeybarber on June 18, 2019, 05:05:28 pmTaking a closer look helped!The markings says FAF and after a google search this picture turned uphttps://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB16oMRc6fguuRjSspkq6xchpXax/High-quality-electric-male-female-connectors-pin.jpghttps://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/High-quality-electric-male-female-connectors_60790858384.htmlThat is exactly the connector already on there. The pitch is 2.5mm, so it is pretty standard.A bit further digging lead me to thishttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-3-4-5Pin-JST-SM-Plug-Male-Female-Quick-Wire-Connector-Adapter-Terminal-Easy/183834756209and that is where I also saw the connectors before! It seems to be exactly the same used for many LED strips. I knew I had seen them before, and it was driving me insane I could not put a finger to where I had seen them.
Identifying a connector and pin - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 25, 2017, 08:45:32 am
content: Hi,I have this connector, that i'm unable to identify. (Sorry phone image)Widht: 16 mm. Height: 5 mm. Pin spacing C-C 5 mm. The pins themselves looks like regular spade connector, but i'm unable to find those, they measure 4x2,2 mmIf it can be of any help, it's to a Massey Ferguson 4900 rear lift controller, looks like it is made by Bosch.

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2017, 03:51:16 pm
content: I might have seen this before in (high school) robotics. I didn't measure them, I just help the kids solder the other end. Might have - it was a few years ago so I am not dead-certain.Try that arena, may be you'll get lucky.

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2017, 07:14:53 am
content: Thanks for the hint. I'll continue to google. I've done it for hours now.The liftsensor has a Bosch PN 0 538 001 102, which gives nothing on google.

author: iainwhite
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2017, 03:15:26 pm
content: Looks like a TE/Amp Fastin/Faston 110 series connectorHow about this?http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/925015-3/A122488-ND/1154146Datasheet:here

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 27, 2017, 04:45:49 am
content: Quote from: iainwhite on February 26, 2017, 03:15:26 pmThats the oneThank you.
Identifying a FFC/FPC Connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fdisk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 04, 2019, 07:24:08 am
content: Hi,I'm trying to locate a FFC/FPC Connector that matches the one in the attached photo. It is attached to an ASUS X541AU laptop MB and the intention is to cannibalise a new one for the clip (the clip died in a fire...) rather than attempt to solder on a new connector. It's not a Molex brand connector and I've been unable to find an image of it anywhere, even after many hours of searching. Any assistance would be great.EDIT: The part number (?) on the board yields no results

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2019, 10:42:39 am
content: Yeh... what:- Pin count- Pitch (pin spacing)- Connection side- Locking type (flip lock? push lock?)- Connector thicknessHours of searching would be more fruitful with these measurements spent on Digi-Key or the likeTim

author: fdisk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 04, 2019, 11:09:42 am
content: NVM, I found the exact 26 pin connector I need at aliexpress after a saga of search.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32907854306.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2a165cf8SClMdB&algo_pvid=64b45933-5afa-4ba1-9fda-b9e47fa35f78&algo_expid=64b45933-5afa-4ba1-9fda-b9e47fa35f78-1&btsid=bdf8fac1-154b-472d-9b63-71dcaf22a99f&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2,searchweb201603_52
Identifying a laptop component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: anvoice
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2020, 11:23:59 pm
content: Hello, I've got a semi-working laptop that sporadically turns off and barely ever starts. I have no idea if I can fix it, but I took a thermal image of the motherboard with the thing on and the only real action I can see is a certain component on the board. It got just a little hotter than most other components, and it reads 2R2 1739. Picture attached. Googling didn't help, and I was hoping someone might identify what sort of component this is? I was hoping I could figure out how hot it should get vs what I've got right now, perhaps changing it out could fix things if it's overheating. Thanks in advance.

author: Manul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2020, 11:30:14 pm
content: It is 2.2uH inductor. It does not need replacing. But if it gets really hot, it may be, that the output of this switching converter is overloaded. Also it may be because of normal operation.

author: anvoice
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2020, 12:04:09 am
content: Right, thanks a lot! Would the switching converter not get hot in such a situation? Assuming too much current is going through? I'm not sure I'll be able to locate it, but I'll try.

author: Manul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2020, 12:17:29 am
content: Some power is dissipated on the inductor, some on a switching element. It is normal for these things to get warm. It depends how much of course. You may check if this converter produces a correct output voltage while in operation (as first rule of troubleshooting - check if all voltages are correct).
Identifying a schematic symbol - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cloudscapes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 02:09:33 am
content: Heya..Trying to identify that round symbol on pin 8 with the extra ground connection. The closest I can find are coax cables that sort of look like that, but this is a system clock signal for an audio codec, so coax doesn't make sense at all. I'm guessing it's something similar, like a ground plane under and around that trace? I may be wrong.Datasheet doesn't go into it, I checked.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 02:23:47 am
content: i would have just assumed it meant to use grounded coax for the cabling.

author: cloudscapes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 02:30:50 am
content: Quote from: Psi on February 22, 2013, 02:23:47 amThat's the confusing thing, though. 99 times out of 100 in a codec/micro design, the system clock is connected between the two via traces, not cable.

author: Kremmen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 06:44:58 am
content: 1st guess: shielded cable. If this is on the PCB then 2nd guess: guard traces around the signal trace.

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 07:02:13 am
content: Quote from: Kremmen on February 22, 2013, 06:44:58 amIt could also be a controlled impedance trace. It is going to a pair of resistors that someone might have thought would do for a 50 impedance.Neil

author: AndyC_772
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 07:16:09 am
content: Grounded guard traces around the clock track. Not a bad idea actually.

author: krish2487
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 07:18:33 am
content: QuoteThe 2nd.QuoteAndyC_772 beat me to it..:-)The chip is a NXP 24bit audio ADC.The "loop" is a guard ring around the master clock to isolate it from high frequency noise around in the circuit.Come to think of it, the "SYSCLOCK" should have indicated the purpose of the guard ring.

author: cloudscapes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2013, 04:18:52 am
content: Thanks a lot guys. I suspected as much, but it really helps to be sure when you're learning.
Identifying board-to-board connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Gustav.M
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 10, 2023, 06:23:10 pm
content: Hi there,I basically just registered here to ask this question, so please excuse me if this is in the wrong place. It seemed most fitting for this question.So I have a car stereo that I intend to modify, and it has this blade-style board-to-board connector that I can't identify. I've spent hours on google and mouser/digikey sifting through different connectors to no avail.It has a 1mm pin pitch, or close to. The blades seem to be ~2.54mm tall.Please see the attached files for images of the connector, male and female.Through my googling I've seen similar connectors used on other automotive parts. For example a indicator signal stick for a Ford (part no. AV6T-17A553-AC), so I think this is a connector commonly used for automotive electronics.The car stereo is a MF2311 for a Mercedes, if that helps.Bonus question: For identifying unknown parts like this, is there some better method than just sifting through google image search and retailers such as digikey?

author: timeandfrequency
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2023, 10:24:39 pm
content: Hi Gustav.M,Wow, this one is a riddle. Never seen such an alien.Had a quick look at Samtec, Lumberg, Molex, Fujitsu, Oupiin, Garry, Hirose and JST Internet pages, but unfortunately no match for the moment.

author: ArdWar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2023, 11:22:44 pm
content: Plug:https://www.irisoele.com/en/series/view/9850BReceptacle:https://www.irisoele.com/en/series/view/9850S

author: EPAIII
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2023, 08:18:28 am
content: I bet the minimum purchase quantity is 10,000.Good luck finding a source.

author: Gustav.M
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 11, 2023, 04:09:33 pm
content: Quote from: ArdWar on September 10, 2023, 11:22:44 pmWow, there they are, thank you.Quote from: EPAIII on September 11, 2023, 08:18:28 amYeah, I was dreading that this was some obscure part only available to big companies or whatever. Maybe I'll just desolder the ones I have.

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2023, 05:10:39 pm
content: It's easy broYou buy cheap arduino dupont cables, and solder.I mean, it should work just fine. What you have is proprietary and if you can find it will be from old units. So forget about it.That last large cable, you should be able to just cut and stick female arduino cable onto it. Maybe fixate it with some gue. It will be fine.

author: Gustav.M
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 11, 2023, 06:54:12 pm
content: Quote from: u666sa on September 11, 2023, 05:10:39 pmYes, of course. I just thought these connectors were kinda cool. But practicality comes first

author: liaifat85
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2023, 02:25:56 pm
content: You can post these pictures to the Digikey forum.
Identifying capacitors after PCB install - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: halfmoonmissing
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2023, 02:30:27 am
content: Hi all,I have been trying to teach myself about electronics and soldering. I purchased and have been populating an Amiga 500+ board with all the relevant resistors and capacitors.I think I had a mistake mixing up capacitors values in the wrong locations. The writing is too tiny for me to see and even using my phone on its highest magnification I can't see what is written.I tried capacitance using a multimeter (looked at the booklet) but it does not return anything. Can I please get advise as to how I can determine what mf or pf is where and/or what I am doing wrong with my multimeter?Really stuck now and so would take any advice. Thank you.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2023, 03:10:47 am
content: Get a real magnifier glass. I have not seen components that had writing on them, yet it was so small to be unreadable.Something like thishttps://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803106558732.htmlworks very well for reading small text.Measuring in-circuit would always be error-prone. And if you are going to replace them, then it is easier to just throw them away and replace with the new ones with known values.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2023, 03:42:27 am
content: I always take pictures of a board before replacing electrolytic capacitors. Search for "Amiga 500+ capacitors" and there are board pictures out there that can help, i.e.https://www.tsb.space/bl0g/upgrade-amiga-500-rev-8a-board-to-amiga-500/Don't put in cheap new ones, don't put them in backwards, and I mark the top with a red felt pen to show I've checked the value and polarity.

author: halfmoonmissing
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2023, 04:23:34 am
content: Thank you mate. They are the little small ones I am having trouble seeing. On the BOM they are 'Ceramic Capacitor - Axial' with values such as 22pF, 47pF,10nF,100nF.I went to put in the last of the 100nF but there was already a capacitor where it should have gone. It may not be the only one I have messed up either. That was why I was trying to measure them with the multimeter hoping there was an easy way.With my bad eyes they all look the same and the writing is too small or on the bottom of the soldered part

author: 807
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2023, 11:12:30 am
content: Some multimeters are not good for measuring low value capacitors in the pF ranges.You might need a dedicated capacitance meter.I use a X10 eye loupe under a good light to read smd markings.
Identifying capacitors - looking for help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Strand17
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2017, 09:20:56 pm
content: Hello,I need help in identifying the type and if possible also the manufacturer of some capacitors.The capacitors are rectangular, 7.5x5.5x2.8 mm and are used for both decoupling and filtering in a small low noise amplifier which is 10-15 years old. Two markings are used, "156" (15uF?) and "686" (68uF?).Any suggestions would be very welcome!Jonas

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2017, 09:53:25 pm
content: I think you got the values right at 15uF and 68uF. Given the case size and the polarity marking, I think that makes them solid tantalum capacitors.

author: Strand17
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2017, 07:42:44 pm
content: Thanks a lot!Jonas
Identifying components thread - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: psysc0rpi0n
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2024, 12:01:14 pm
content: I searched the forum for a global thread to post pictures of components we need to to identify. I couldn't find one.Maybe this could be a single mega thread with that purpose instead of having multiple small threads for each one of us needing help!I have removed a few components from a smoking machine and many of these components are SMD, therefore, minimal description / references are on top of these components.Here is a picture of a few I need help to identify

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2024, 07:02:48 pm
content: Most of the time many components can be identified easily.What you need to know is what package is used. Exact dimensions and footprint are crucial. Larger packages may have a manufacturer logo that can narrow down the search. Model numbers will be the first to appear after logo most of the time.There are resources that will help.https://smd.yooneed.one/https://www.s-manuals.com/smdhttps://www.sos.sk/pdf/SMD_Catalog.pdfThere are others.Where the component used in a circuit is very important. Other components it's connected to, in circuit, can help identify it purpose. Circuit diagrams of the device help a lot if available. Drawing out a picture of the copper traces to each pin and any components connected to those traces. Photos of both the Front and Back of the circuit board.#1 Has an ALPHA and OMEGA logo with the model number 66644 beside it. The package is a Dual-Flat No-leads 8 (DFN8). Just from that I can search and find AONS66644 which is a 60V MOSFET.#2 is a SOD-123 diode marked SL. 1N5819 1.0A Schottky barrier rectifier#3 SOT23 Marked A7 BAV99 High-speed switching diodes#4 SOT-23-3L 3415 Huamei Semiconductor Linear voltage regulator IC LDO, 1.5V±1.5%, 500mA#5 SOT-23-5 or SOT-25 This is where a circuit diagram comes in handy as it could be a Linear voltage regulator or Voltage detector#6 SOT-23 2SC4410 NPN transistorNow this does not guarantee perfect success, but having as much information as possible about the component helps.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2024, 07:08:17 pm
content: Just for reference, there is a sticky 'mega thread' here...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/what_s-this-please-(component-advice)/
Identifying connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: DeltaBlast
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 05, 2023, 05:20:10 pm
content: Hi!I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it's aimed at the front while it's installed sideways. So I've opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it's connected to is too short to do anything with. So I'm looking to buy an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it.So I took pics of the connector and I'm hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!).Thanks!edit:https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong?
Identifying diode (Z33) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mortos360
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2013, 09:57:03 pm
content: I got a dead diode here that has following marking on it: AD and Z33... the manfacturer is Diotec.What can I use a replacement for this diode?I have some 1N4004 diodes here, will that do it?Sorry if I missing important informations here that need to be provided!Please ask if you need more informations.

author: hagster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2013, 10:03:36 pm
content: 33v zenner maybe. What's the circuit it's in?

author: mortos360
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2013, 10:13:38 pm
content: Quote from: hagster on October 31, 2013, 10:03:36 pmThis is a remote energency stop device.. the diode is on the power board.. as far as I can tell. its a bit hard to tell really.. but it seems to have a few opto isolators, caps, PCT.The whole system runs on 24V.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2013, 10:18:36 pm
content: Probably a 33V Zener diode to limit the voltage, then.

author: mortos360
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2013, 10:53:59 pm
content: So I should be abel to replace it with a 1N4004 as long as I stay under 24V?

author: Simon123
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2013, 10:58:45 pm
content: Is it in to-92 package or normal axial one?

author: mortos360
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2013, 11:00:45 pm
content: Quote from: Simon123 on October 31, 2013, 10:58:45 pmNormal black axial package

author: w2aew
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2013, 02:21:49 am
content: Quote from: mortos360 on October 31, 2013, 10:53:59 pmNo, if the diode is a zener, then a 1N4004 will NOT be a suitable replacement. Why not send a note to diotec and ask them what the part number is based on these markings? Then, you can get an exact replacement from them, or find a suitable replacement from another manufacturer based on the specs of the original part.

author: mortos360
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2013, 10:50:20 am
content: Quote from: w2aew on November 01, 2013, 02:21:49 amToday is a holiday here in europe and I was hoping to get it up and running till sunday since I need it for a test.. but I found another solution for that tes, so Ill send the device for repair.

author: Simon123
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2013, 11:16:15 am
content: Sometimes you can get electronic components on fleamarket(vcr could have 33volt z diodes cause it needs it for modulator).Btw, hello from Slovenia.
Identifying FPC connector type used in phones - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: maelh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2023, 09:35:27 pm
content: Hi,I am trying to identify a connector type that is used in (old) phones for connecting side keys. I have gone through DigiKey trying to identify the plug by pictures, but don't seem to be able to find it.Knowing the exact type of this connector as plug and receptacle, I hope to find a breakout board so it's easier to connect hookup wires.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2023, 10:46:46 pm
content: You already asked athttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/sidekey-replacement-for-smartphone-mobiwire-starxtrem-5/msg5211042/#msg5211042

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2023, 04:25:56 am
content: Have you tried the find on aliexpress thingy you get when hoovering over images?https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000706489443.htmlAnyway. If we talking about old OLD phones, there wouldn't be parts available for those. I mean, those phones that were absolute back in 2014. The only way to get those is to buy donors. Perhaps someone would sell you a whole box of them real cheap. Best way is to ask at repair shops. Email would be fine -- because this one is a time waster. Right price is $1 for 1 phone, or if it is a box of phones $30 per box.

author: maelh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2023, 11:06:34 am
content: Quote from: wasedadoc on December 08, 2023, 10:46:46 pmI didlaterin the thread, but I thought this deserves to be split up into a separate question, as this wasnotthe question of theinitialpost, but just about the plug type itself. People might overlook it due to the topic title.

author: maelh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2023, 11:28:31 am
content: Quote from: u666sa on December 10, 2023, 04:25:56 amThanks for the hint. I tried an image search, but so far most results had phone manufacturer name + FPC or FFC in the description, but nothing more generic mentioning the connectors exact name. There are countless FPC/FFC connectors on DigiKey, but none that seem to match the one in the picture.Searching DigiKey I couldn't find what the exact name would be/didn't find such connectors. Similar ones, but not these.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2023, 12:20:05 pm
content: The reason you’re not finding it in FFC/FPC connectors is because it’s not a FFC/FPC connector at all. It’s a mezzanine (board stacking) connector.Here’s that category on digikey, filtered to 10 pin models with a mated height of 1mm or less:https://www.digikey.ch/short/2r3zjj4z
Identifying ICs on a ebook reader board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: chamod
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2015, 08:56:36 pm
content: I was bored and took apart my ebook reader and took a look at the PCB. I identified most of the components, except for couple of ICs. It'd be great if someone can point me how to identify them.The QFN16 was close to the E-Ink screen connector. Other one was close to MicroSD adaptor and NN1001 optical touch sensor controller.P.S. - I'm not attempting to repair or anything. (It is not broken). I just looked at the components and the data-sheets to get an idea about the design.Thanks

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2015, 11:02:30 pm
content: The QFN16 is a BQ24074.The QFN40 is... supposedly a MSP430V325 as evidenced bythis linkandthis link, but there is no mention of any MSP430Vxxx devices on TI's website. On the other hand,they obviously existandthere are many other models, some with "interesting" descriptions...

author: chamod
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 03:03:08 am
content: Thanks for taking time to reply. How did you identify the smaller one? Is there any way to relate the numbers on the chip to a part number or just by experience?

author: chamod
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 04:07:58 am
content: Ah that makes sense. Thanks!
identifying part - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: droidPup
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 03:16:04 pm
content: I am having trouble with an APC BackUps NS600. The unit does not charge the internal battery and I noticed a burning smell. I unplugged the unit and opened it. I notices a brown spot on one a white wire next to a power transistor which also looks like it overheated. The number on the transistor is 1G35SG. Also the numbers 75229P below that. Also there is a large F symbol to the side- is this a Fairchild Semiconductor's logo? I tried searching for the part number 1G35SG with no luck. Is this the part number?

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 03:42:46 pm
content: http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets/150/170875_DS.pdf?

author: droidPup
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 07, 2013, 07:45:39 pm
content: Thanks PA0PBZ, i quess I should have searched on both number.
Identifying parts for a Compaq Portable 1 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Nonmi9
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 02:22:42 am
content: I've been stumped trying to find the part in the attached picture (best shot I can get without a macro). I think it's a tantalum capacitor, its labeled as 10-15 M(2). All others have a three digit code that I've been able to find and replace.Thanks in advance.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 03:15:49 am
content: 10V 15uF or 10uF 15V. What's the voltage of the power rail it's on?

author: Nonmi9
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 08:19:57 pm
content: It's on a ISA slot, so ether 5v or 12v. I don't know which one is uses.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 09:15:44 pm
content: If it's a 5V rail, then 15uF 10V makes sense; if it's a 12V rail, 10uF 15V.You'll need to trace it with a DMM.

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 12:43:25 am
content: It's obviously a tantalum capacitor. Depending on what it is connected to, the exact value might not matter, especially if it's just a decoupling capacitor for voltage supply. How about if you check to see if they are on voltage supply rail and put 10uF 25V there? Today's equivalent device is much smaller than back then. It should fit physically in available space.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 01:17:48 am
content: I seriously doubt the value makes any difference, anything from 4.7 to 100uF would likely work fine, in fact for testing purposes the computer will probably work fine with the capacitor completely removed. There is typically a significant amount of redundancy with decoupling capacitors.

author: I wanted a rude username
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 05:40:23 am
content: Your mileage may vary, butallthe tantalum capacitors I've seen have had the capacitance listed first, no matter how it was formatted.As already mentioned, the exact capacitance is not so important ... whereas I would over-rate the voltage significantly (10 uF, 25 V as suggested), because there was a time when designers weren't as wary of tantalums' problems as we are today.

author: Nonmi9
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 03:52:13 pm
content: i've replaced it with a 10uF, 25V, it now won't boot unless the card is removed. I'll have to go though it and trying any others that have shorted. Thank you guys for your help!

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 07:25:56 pm
content: Is it possible that the new capacitor was installed backwards (reverse polarity)? Such tantalum capacitors are polarized.

author: Nonmi9
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 12:40:12 pm
content: I checked, I've got the polarity matched up.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 08:52:33 pm
content: What was the symptom before? You said now it won't boot unless the card is removed, was it booting previously?
Identifying pcb and help with what is worth salvaging or tossing  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Seaofdep
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2017, 01:41:37 am
content: Hi, I have a Box of random main boards, power boards , optocoupler sensors ,etc(I believe camera boards) ... I noticed the Atmega64 micro-controller and was wondering if anyone can help with what exactly are they used for or any info.. should I store them or trash them . Being a newbie Im still in that get excited on any circuitry stage and need tips on what to toss or not lol thank youSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

author: Seaofdep
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2017, 01:47:21 am
content: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2017, 02:02:35 am
content: If you've got the space, make a list of the larger chips and any part that catches your eye on each board, number the back of each board with a marker pen so you have a board ID for the list, and if possible note on the list what the board is out of and what the fault was, then store them without stripping the parts.Reason: Many of the parts will need support components e.g an oscillator crystal for a MCU that are already conveniently grouped on the board. If you strip the parts before you need them, it costs you time and money (due to wear and tear on your desoldering equipment), support components are likely to be missed or get lost and the chances of it sitting in a draw gathering dust till your estate sale*are >90%However you do need to limit your scrap board storage to avoid falling into the pitfall of hoarding. e.g. one box for 'virgin' boards, and one for partially stripped boards. When a box is full nothing more gets kept until you make space for it. When a board has had most of the nice stuff stripped, or you need the space, be ruthless and dispose of it as eWaste. (Possibly after salvaging any remaining high value parts that you anticipate using within a year)* Don't leave your friends/relatives/executor the task of finding good homes for a collection like this:https://www.eevblog.com/2015/04/26/eevblog-737-worlds-biggest-collection-of-electronics-components/

author: Seaofdep
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2017, 02:55:56 am
content: Quote from: Ian.M on August 20, 2017, 02:02:35 amyeah things can get carried away very easily, 1 leads to 100000s ha and my gf will kill me if i clutter and hoard (ocd)i absolutely need the desoldering/rework practiceThank you guys< i really appreciate the help

author: Seaofdep
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2017, 02:57:16 am
content: haha maybe i should take a step back and figure out this quoting thing first
Identifying Semiconductors from component markings - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TPI
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 01:41:04 am
content: When trying to identify an unknown components (SMD device ussally) is there a way to determine the part number from the component marking.Im referring more so, to the smaller packages where all they might have is a bunch of letters like "CCR" so trying to search only with that will be near impossible.Can these alpha-numerical codes be decoded to reveal the manufactuers part number ?Whilst on the topic is anybody is able to identify these two components only marked with APGB and the other ABEC they are a 20pin QFN package and I belive them to be regulators.
Identifying SMD Cmponent - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: zayoo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 03, 2023, 07:25:22 pm
content: Hello,I'm new here, hello to everyone and i have trouble finding one component:So General Semi manufacturer. And this component is between Gate and Surce of Power MosFET in transformer driven gate.It's overvoltage protection of gate. In series between gate and secondary winding of transformer is 4.7Ohm resistor.Resistor is infinity and this component is shorted.Please help to indentify this component!Thank you very much!

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2023, 07:59:54 pm
content: BM is the common marking for SMAJ15 and SMBJ15 TVS diodes from various manufacturers, including LittleFuseData sheet is here:https://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/tvs_diodes/littelfuse_tvs_diode_smaj_datasheet.pdf.pdfhttps://m.littelfuse.com/media?resourcetype=datasheets&itemid=fc83cff9-7655-4e4e-b1dc-e1b436c0b632&filename=littelfuse-tvs-diode-smbj-datasheetFraser

author: zayoo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 03, 2023, 09:41:52 pm
content: Thanks Fraser. Help me a lot!
Identifying SMD component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Chaoticoz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 08, 2023, 12:04:03 pm
content: Hi, I would love some help identifying this SMD component. The print on it is "2149" The package is SOT23-6 if I'm not mistaken.It is connected to the I2C pins of an AXP223 PMIC, and also to GPIO pins of a SSD202D SoCThe whole system is a handheld gaming console (Miyoo Mini Plus)Thanks for your help(it's the 6 pin chip on bottom left of image)

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2023, 01:09:43 pm
content: I think it's a level shifter ...https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf/975132/STMicroelectronics/ST2149B/1

author: Chaoticoz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 09, 2023, 06:00:53 am
content: I've desoldered it to make sure the traces are connected as I thought the are, and yes they are.Wouldn't a level shifter have separate input/output pins? the way it is, they are both connected to the same pins.

author: ArdWar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2023, 07:48:56 am
content: GND on Pin 2, looks like your bog standard SOT363/SC70 ESD protection diode array.

author: Chaoticoz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 09, 2023, 07:53:46 am
content: It's 3mm by 1.5mm (should have added that) so if I'm not mistaken a bit big for SOT363/SC70 but diode array might just be it! thank you!
Identifying SOT23 Component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ChrisGreece52
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 09:53:56 am
content: Hello i am trying to reverse engineer a PCB but i have a problem identifying an SOT23 component.Given that SOT23 components usually are diodes or transistors i tried measuring the diode voltages to identify the nature of the component.In the first ic i got the following results1(+) --> 2(-) Forward Biased Diode 960mV1(+) --> 3(-) Forward Biased Diode 960mV3(+) --> 2(-) Forward Biased Diode 960mVSee problem is the third measurement which if it was an NPN transistor it should be open circuit but it displays a forward voltage of 960mV i do not know if the component is busted or not so that is another problemThere is an identical component above (Markings are 493) and i got the readings below from it.1(+) --> 2(-) Forward Biased Diode 960mV1(+) --> 3(-) Forward Biased Diode 960mV3(+) --> 2(-) Open CircuitWhich tells me that it should be an NPN transistor.Again i am not sure if both components are operational thank you in advance.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 10:25:26 am
content: Is this in circuit or out?Tim

author: ChrisGreece52
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 10:34:08 am
content: Its on the pcb i did not remove it from the circuit. Do you think that is the problem ?

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 10:41:54 am
content: https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/FMMT493.pdf

author: ChrisGreece52
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 12:28:49 pm
content: I found the problem !!! it is not the transistor but that i left it on the board. As i was drawing the schematic i found out that the two transistors are connected together like this.Where the normal behaving one is the bottom and the one i got the weird measurements from being the top one.

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2019, 12:07:15 am
content: Glad you figured it out.But just as a side note SOT23 are not necessarily just transistors.Although still transistors Mosfets come in that package.Other components include Two planar PIN diodes such as Schottky Diodes & Rectifiers like the BAS70-00 to BAS70-06 which has a Forward voltage of 1000mV. Others include dual and single zener diodes.Even some sensors are in this package.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2019, 02:23:19 am
content: Add voltage regulators/references and voltage detector IC's (as commonly used in li ion battery protection circuitry).
Identifying surface-mount fuses? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ThisDoesNotCompute
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2014, 02:14:33 am
content: Hello all,I've been working on a bit of a project lately, trying to resurrect a Nintendo Game Boy Color that won't power on. I've determined that one of the surface-mount fuses is blown, and unlike a lot of others who repair Game Boys (who just bodge a wire across the terminals and say "good enough") I'd like to actually replace it. I haven't found any information online as to what specific fuse I need, and I don't know a ton about identifying the different types of surface-mount packages. Below is a photo of the fuse, located at F1. Clearly it's rated for 1A, but I have no idea about determining voltage. Based on what Nintendo's put in other Game Boys, it's a fast blow, but that's about all I know. Can anyone offer some advice as to how I can figure out what replacement fuse to get?Thanks!

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2014, 02:20:37 am
content: Quote from: ThisDoesNotCompute on March 27, 2014, 02:14:33 amOnly the current and blow speed is important. Voltage is not (W=I2R, and it's the W that causes it to blow)NB: Your title is asking about capacitors, but the message is about fuses. Quite different thingsLuckily for you it's a fuse that you want to know about, because surface mount caps are seldom marked.

author: ThisDoesNotCompute
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2014, 02:42:24 am
content: Quote from: sleemanj on March 27, 2014, 02:20:37 amOK, so that's good to know about the voltage.And yes, I'm talking about fuses. Why I put capacitors in the title is beyond me...it's late and I'm tired.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2014, 03:03:14 am
content: The fuse voltage rating indicates the max voltage is guaranteed not to pass after it blows.
Identifying the IC manufacturer in link - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2017, 11:34:13 am
content: 1. Here is the link for which I have to find the IC manufacturer:https://www.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fae01.alicdn.com%2Fkf%2FHTB1WS8THVXXXXcFXFXXq6xXFXXXU%2F5pcs-Battery-BMS-Protection-PCB-Board-for-3-4-packs-18650-Li-ion-lithium-Battery-Cell.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fsearch-by-image.info%2Fmain%2F79270&docid=FQ4k51fphaLioM&tbnid=KE8VShSFH-U3ZM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwiz6teyp8_WAhVKqo8KHVIpBA8QMwgqKAUwBQ..i&w=900&h=900&bih=633&biw=1024&q=coslight%20battery%20protection%20circuit&ved=0ahUKEwiz6teyp8_WAhVKqo8KHVIpBA8QMwgqKAUwBQ&iact=mrc&uact=82. Its a Li-Ion battery protection IC, 20 Pin SOP package, 9 & 10 Pin are shorted to ground3. From symbol "M" on it, seems like Microchip IC, but microchip have no such solution I had checked.

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2017, 11:59:37 am
content: Look for mitsumi MM1414C chip

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2017, 06:17:58 am
content: IC which I have on board has similar looking "M" logo on IC.Following are numbers written on it:620B385A
Identifying this puzzling pair of simple power ICs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: brandon.arnold
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2025, 09:47:16 pm
content: I've been studying this 90s-era PCB for a few months. May I ask if anyone can give me feedback about what could possibly be going on, with these two ICs S401 and IC408?I've attached some images.1. schematic.png is my rendering of how these ICs are connected (S408 is a mistake; it's actually S401)2. footprint_ic408.png shows IC408 on the PCB and some connections3. footprint_s401.png shows the distant footprint (unpopulated) for S4014. label_IC408.jpg shows the label on IC408, which is an M-like logo (not Motorola), "535", and "592F"Notes:1. GB-XRST in the schematic connects to several GALs and custom ICs that do bus management (selecting who has control of the bus).2. I see that the "S..." prefix is used for switches. So S401 must be a switch.Thanks, in advance, as usual! I intend to publish these schematics one day and absolutely will take notes and link to threads like this as part of giving credit.

author: temperance
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2025, 01:01:09 am
content: Probably full bridge rectifiers:

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2025, 01:55:15 am
content: I think the logo belongs to Mitsumi.PST592F, Mitsumi, System Reset, 3.6V, 100ms, MMP-4A:https://wakamatsu.co.jp/biz/aac/478882_DS.pdf

author: brandon.arnold
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2025, 02:37:47 am
content: Thank you, @temperance, I can see your point. But @fzabkar I really think you are 100% right. I have seen a similar system reset circuit on another arcade PCB like this one, and the pinout for the PST592F you showed is identical to this one. Furthermore it would explain that the external switch is probably a push button switch, for manual reset.Thank you both!
Identifying what inductor/coil/Ferrite bead this is.... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sbmotoracer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 04:16:35 am
content: Good evening,I'm currently trying to fix my monitor and have had limited success. It's gone from constantly flashing to only a few times coming from standby. I'm in the process of replacing the caps on both the power supply and the io board ( not sure what to call it) and noticed a few that I believe are actually inductors but I seem to have a hard time identifying them or their values.They're in what appears to be a blue plastic container with a sticker that says "73G259-901-BX-1420". I believe their inductors due to the stencilling on the board - ex L6030 <- I'm assuming that the L stands for inductor.Would someone be willing to help understand how to identify these? Everything I've seen online states that there should be 3 numbers and possibly a letter but if that's the case then why did they bother including the 73... BX-... 14... in there?Sorry if this is an obvious question. It's just tired of having to disassemble my monitors so much... I have 3 and they all decided to start having issues at the 10+ year mark.Thank you for all your help :-)

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 09:03:40 am
content: Electrolytic caps do degrade with age but inductors very little if at all. I very much doubt that the symptoms you describe are due to inductors.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 09:27:37 am
content: Those are coils, because they are marked with Lnnnn on the PCB's silkscreen. Probably 900uH (901 being 90x101uH).Coils don't need to be replaced. Only the electrolytic capacitors dries out and/or bulge with time.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 10:27:22 am
content: Quote from: RoGeorge on June 23, 2023, 09:27:37 amsometimes coils have defective or broken core. Core can be damaged due to overheating. Also some coil produce buzz sound and needs to be replaced to solve it...