hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Meridian high end speakers production line - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 04:11:04 am
content: Linus does a tour of a LG partner's production facility. Scroll to 3:50 for a production floor tour.https://youtu.be/AUmJwGV1Iq0

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 04:21:43 am
content: those pockets are so deep its like one of those worm holes from who framed roger rabbit

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 05:04:20 am
content: Yes I guess not many manufacturers could afford occasional production runs once in a blue moon and let the equipment idle doing nothing most of the time. No wonder the product price is so high.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 05:22:21 am
content: Wow, that place is huge

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 05:25:17 am
content: Was hoping they'd show the actual speaker production, presuming they make their own drivers?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 10:16:58 pm
content: Price list:https://www.meridian-audio.info/public/meridian_usretail-pricesheet-apr2014%5b4775%5d.pdfOther info:https://www.meridian-audio.info/showman.php?seriesid=9You can actually get spare parts:https://www.meridian-audio.com/media/9358/m6_spares_price_list.pdfQuote from: EEVblog on May 22, 2019, 05:25:17 amThey are using off the shelf or slightly customized, at least from the M6 link above. Doubt they would make any of their own stuff.The drivers for the M6 are ~$125 even directly from them, for a $4,500 product (3% of retail). You'd think it would be a bigger portion of the BOM, but most don't care, they want that huge mark up.

author: electrolust
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 28, 2019, 04:30:22 pm
content: 09:10 "If you've ever seen a surface mount component" ... proceeds to show a through-hole component.Otherwise, the video is great fun.
Convert .LAY to Gerber - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: luke_2700k
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2019, 07:13:21 am
content: Would like to get some of BigCliveDotCom's 5x7 and 3x7 pixel sign PCB's made (http://bigclive.com/freebies.htm) by JLCPCB but I am having some issues converting the Sprint Layout files into the required Gerber files for JLCPCB as I don't own a copy of Sprint Layout. Can anyone assist or provide some advice about how I can achieve this?I'm a newbie to PCB design and manufacturing so any assistance is appreciated.

author: philpem
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2019, 09:36:36 pm
content: Your best bet would probably be to email Clive and ask him to export them as Gerbers.Otherwise you could buy a copy of Sprint Layout (£40 from Crownhill) and do it yourself.
2.5D G10 milling, searching for a supplier - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Koen
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2019, 08:13:54 pm
content: Hello,would you have a 2.5D G10 milling company to recommend ? Ideally accepting 3D files like STP or IGS and ideally providing an express service for samples. Simple 70x50x5mm parts. Would need 500 pieces in regular fashion. Would need fast samples yesterday.Thank you very much,Koen
Difference in performance of coppers? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: pratiken
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 06:36:15 am
content: HiI am wondering if there is a difference in performance of different coppers. My PCB is on the left and another product's PCB is on the right. The color of their copper is darker. What does that say, if it says anything, about the copper? Does it effect performance in any way?Thanks!

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 09:49:41 am
content: Usually copper used for electrical purpose is pretty pure, with only little impurities or intentionally added alloying elements. The color depends on the surface and can change with oxidation. AFAIK so called oxygen free copper has a little phosphorous added to capture oxide. The effect on the conductivity is usually still small at room temperature and above.It's always difficult to judge metal colors from a photo, but the picture looks like the bright one is more like tinned or nickel plated coper.

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 10:17:33 am
content: The one on the left looks tinned to me.

author: NorthGuy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 12:55:40 pm
content: Quote from: exe on April 19, 2019, 10:17:33 amThe one on the right doesn't look like bare copper neither, possibly ENIG.The copper has reddish colour which becomes darker as it oxidizes changing to dark brown, sometimes nearly black.When PCB is produced, the copper is usually covered with something to prevent oxidation. Thus you rarely can see the copper.
Bar soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: alanambrose
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2019, 08:10:05 am
content: Anyone have any experience with bar soldering of ffc cables? That is, to avoid the expense & mechanical volume of an FPC connector. I have a requirement in the low thousands of units. Design considerations to watch out for?TIA, Alan
Flat cable / Ribbon cable stripper? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ubbut
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2019, 04:11:19 pm
content: Hi,I have been looking for a ribbin cable stripper for quite a while now. For some reason I seem not be able to find any ..I would like to be able to strip 10x1.27mm wires in one go. Currently I am using a cheap Chinese wire stripper - it kind of works but it will fall apart soonLooking for better quality tool I can actually use in production.I currently have something like this:The next step would be a tool to separate the wires. The best of course would be to do stripping and separation in one tool. I found a machine which does that (and am actually considering it), but a hand tool is actually sufficient for me ..http://www.cablecutting.net/Flat-Cable-Stripping-Cutting-and-Splitting-machine.htmlthanks

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2019, 05:24:12 pm
content: You could just make the cutter yourself, just grab somesafety razor bladesand make a stack with some PCB or metal between the individual blades to get the distance between cuts right (1.27mm or whatever it is)You could even 3d print some plastic shape with channels in which you could insert the bladesOnce you get that done, you could use it as a guillotine or a stamp- you place the ribbon cable in a channel to align it with the head, then press on the head to make the cuts between wires.

author: ubbut
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2019, 06:23:55 pm
content: I thought about this, too actually. But really thought this would be an already solved problem ...

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2019, 11:55:46 pm
content: When looking for "weird" stuff it sometimes helps to do a picture search. For example:https://duckduckgo.com/?q=ribbon+cable+stripper&iax=images&ia=imagesOne of the unexpected things you can find in such a way are commercial tools to strip the isolation with lasers:https://www.laserwiresolutions.com/applications/types-of-wire-stripping/general-wire-insulations/

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2019, 12:07:24 am
content: Funny thing is, I have looked far and wide for a wire stripper that works better than the super cheap ones like you have in the original post... but haven't found anything that works as well!

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2019, 02:16:29 am
content: Took me a few seconds...but then I realized why I don't have such a tool. It's because all the IDC ribbon connectors expect and work best withunstrippedribbon cable.

author: ubbut
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2019, 07:50:07 am
content: Quote from: Nusa on April 17, 2019, 02:16:29 amSometimes you don't have an IDC connector on both ends of the ribbon cable ...Quote from: SilverSolder on April 17, 2019, 12:07:24 amSame here, don't quite understand it ...
Looks like Seeedstudio lost their customer list - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: LapTop006
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 11:58:52 am
content: Got a spam this evening offering PCB assembly services, to an address that's only used with Seeed, from a place called "BokTech".Guessing Seeed had someone walk with their database.The other possibility would be one of my orders got outsourced to them, and Seeed gave all the details but all my PCBs are either basic 1.6mm HASL or odd combinations that they don't do, so I doubt that.

author: JackJones
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 12:41:07 pm
content: I got one too just a couple of hours ago. I was wondering where they got my address, now I know!

author: mmark
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 12:44:24 pm
content: same here...

author: martin1454
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 12:50:19 pm
content: Somebody wrote to me on facebook a few days ago, asking if I had any PCB projects that needed fab. - FACEBOOK?!, PCB sales are surely aggressive -.-

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 12:59:14 pm
content: I got an email too, marked it as a phishing scam and deleted it.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2019, 01:21:09 am
content: Some years ago I once orderded PCB's from Seeed, and unfortunately I used a somewhat regular E-mail address. After that I made a filter for "seeed" and anything gontaining it gets into the spambox.Usually I use disposable e-mail adresses for such things and simply dump the whole e-mail address as soon as spam is being send to it, or I simply do not even check such e-mail adresses for incoming messages at all.
Declaration of conformity EU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Piotrek
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2019, 10:30:31 am
content: Hello,After reading a lot of comments on this forum I was trying to buy chinese pick and place Neoden 3V (but they haven't got declaration of conformity needed for machines in EU, they have this document only for Neoden4).Were you dealing with chinese pick and place machines in price range from 4k$ to 10k$ (without Neoden4) which had this document, and can be easily bought in EU?

author: PrintTec
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 08, 2019, 12:20:31 pm
content: Hello Piotrek,We are the distribuor of Neoden in the EU.Indeed the Neoden4 is the only machine available with a proper TÜV CE from China.There woul dnot be any use anyway to choose for the 3V as it is not to be compared with the new generation models.And the price is almost the same anyway.We havewww.renex.com.plas your local dealer, please contact them?They will be happy to help you properly.Thanks for now.
Are there any FFC connectors for this cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: selkathguy
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 08, 2019, 12:23:15 am
content: I want to use a part which the datasheet states has a 0.65mm pitch between pins on the flex. Are there any FFC receptacles for such a flex cable? I cant seem to find any .65mm receptacles anywhere.Part Drawings:https://www.vishay.com/docs/37896/oled128o032dwpp3n00000.pdfIs this meant for hotbar only? The manufacturer gives no recommendations on the website.Product Page:https://www.vishay.com/displays/list/product-37896/

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 08, 2019, 12:30:58 am
content: It won't work with connectors. There is no hard backing behind the contacts.

author: Skashkash
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2019, 12:38:54 am
content: I use a version of that display, and yes you need to hot bar or just solder the flex.The place I get my displays from also sells a FPC connector version of that model. More $, but still maybe cheaper than vishay.https://www.buydisplay.com/default/0-91-inch-128x32-oled-display-with-connector-fpc-ssd1306-white-on-blackSo they are available.

author: selkathguy
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 08, 2019, 12:39:13 am
content: Quote from: wraper on April 08, 2019, 12:30:58 amSo there is no straightforward way to get those contacts onto a PCB? This display is almost a full module except for some passives, and i was hoping to use it on a small aux board for user interface.Edit: nevermind Skashkash answered.

author: selkathguy
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 08, 2019, 12:46:56 am
content: Quote from: Skashkash on April 08, 2019, 12:38:54 amI was looking at these earlier but hadn't realized they actually put the backing on the contacts. Interesting! So I could make some sort of adapter board with a .5mm FFC connector (to pin header) and proceed with testing.
MEGA Electroless Nickel Electroplated Gold Process Line - Free to good home - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mattbrockuk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2019, 08:29:19 am
content: HiI've got a Mega Electroless Nickel Electroplated Gold Process Line thats sat in the workshop taking up space, free to a good home in the UK? Figured it would be ideal for conversion to the ABC through hole plating setup they sell (its the same hardware) but not going to get round to it.Matt

author: trevwhite
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2019, 08:40:23 am
content: Hi, might be interested. Where in the country are you?Trev

author: mattbrockuk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2019, 09:07:53 am
content: North-west Trev
Please Help: Pace TF 1800 or Finetech CorePlus - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: LAPSKRFC
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2019, 05:41:41 pm
content: Hi all,I'm thinking of adding a high-end rework station to my lab. Budget-wise I can basically afford all the solutions from Finetech, Pace, Ersa, and others. However, I'm not sure which one to go with. I'm considering Finetech Core-plus and Pace TF 1800. I would sincerely appreciate any suggestions on this. If you have any other machine that is better, I would appreciate if you kindly let me know,I'm not gonna use it for mass-production and it will be used in an academic environment. The smallest components that I will need the machine to handle is 0201. And the maximum board size is 10in*10in. If there is any solder past dispensing possibility with the machine, that would be ideal since I dont wanna consider stencil,...Best regards,

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 01, 2019, 06:11:22 pm
content: Why do you keep starting new topics with basically the same question?If you have more to add/ask, then add it to your existing topic thread and the previous commenters/watchers can be notified.Either way it will bubble up on the recent topic list.There is only going to be a small subset of people here who are familiair with those particular machines - they're not exactly cheap.
Trying to find fast HDI PCB manufacturer (preferably in UK) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: 8086
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2018, 10:38:32 am
content: Hi everyoneDoes anyone know of a fast turnaround HDI PCB manufacturer? Somewhere in the region of 1-2 weeks? So far I have a quote for 7 weeks...which isn't going to work.If anyone can make a suggestion it would be appreciatedCheers

author: Ice-Tea
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2018, 10:45:31 am
content: https://www.wedirekt.de/en/pcbGermany.

author: rachaelp
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 23, 2018, 12:05:36 pm
content: I'll give a vote for Wurth's PCB services too. You can use their online service quoted above but they also have a team in the UK so if you need something quickly maybe call their Manchester office and see what they say. Contact info for them can be found here:https://www.wedirekt.co.uk/en/contactBest Regards,Rachael

author: JustPCB
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 25, 2018, 01:50:30 am
content: We've done lots of HDI boards for cell phones, we can probably make it around 2 weeks depends on your boards.If you can consider the manufacturer outside UK, maybe we can help.Cheers.

author: r0d3z1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2019, 10:18:42 am
content: Quote from: rachaelp on July 23, 2018, 12:05:36 pmsame here! very good PCB service, not cheap but very professional.
Replacement Squeegee Blades for Stencil Printers ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mendez
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2019, 03:29:24 am
content: Anyone knows the material the stencil blades use? I'm trying to create my own squeegee and I can't find a website that sells just the blades.I attached an actual picture of one of my squeegees.

author: SMTech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2019, 09:47:46 am
content: You have a rubber squeegee, PBT has the option of rubber or metal, possibly changing will require some extra bits? Rubber squeegees can get cut & damaged by the apertures of the stencil, a metal stencil is more common, typically stainless steel or sometimes nickel. I would expect to be able to buy the metal ones from any supplier that specializes in production equipment/accessories and people who cut stencils, indeed the cheap option is just to use a suitably sized piece of stencil foil.Rubber squeegees are I think quite commonly used by the printing industry (paper, t-shirts etc) you can find lots of examples of handheld squeegees with rubber blades on eBay for example, getting one the right size.. another challenge.

author: mendez
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2019, 03:03:02 pm
content: Thanks,I will see what I can find. Its hard to find replacement parts for PBT so I did my own squeegee design. Here is my first iteration and I used small ball bearings for smother rotations. The original just use a brass bushing (not bearing).My next step is to make it in our cnc and attach a blade - I will try one of those aluminum sheet metals that are very thin.

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2019, 11:19:30 am
content: Consider a wide plaster taping knife. Will be a stainless steel blade, readily available and made for a very similar original application (in terms of springiness, etc)
1000mm PCB manufacturer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: brabus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2019, 11:06:13 am
content: Good morning,I am searching for a manufacturer for a 1000mm long PCB. Yes it is a LED bar.Can you recommend some reliable specialist out there?If the manufacturer also offers an assembly service, well they just won a new customer.Thank you very much and Best Regards.

author: cgroen
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 19, 2019, 12:05:24 pm
content: e7circuits claims to be able to do 500 x 1100 mm PCBsI have a design with them right now (4 layer, 400 x 400 mm) and should receive it at the end of the week(they also do assembly)http://www.e7circuits.com/index.php/Home/Article/capabilities/cat_id/117/article_id/1284/lid/4.html

author: ansonbao
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2019, 09:51:17 am
content: We can offer help.The size restrictions is: length to 1200mm.width to 450mm.You can PM me your requirement

author: cgroen
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 27, 2019, 09:57:59 am
content: I wonder what the prices will be at PCBWAY ?I got a 400 x 400mm 4 layer, ENIG done at e7circuits, price was $265 for 5 pcs.The same is quoted at PCBWAY at $406 for 5 pcs (6/6, 0.3mm)My board and results here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/eda/pcb-factory-e7circuits-anyone-been-using-them/

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2019, 10:41:26 am
content: From experience you don't want to do PCBs more than 1.2m long, as material availability can be a major problem. Remember the 1.2 includes any tooling etc. requirements so maybe 1150mm would be a good maximum to work with.I have a link somewhere for a German assembly house that can do long boards - will post later.Bear in mind shipping from China lay be expensive due to oversize package and weight of stiffening packaging.Please post any leads you find - I'm always on the lookout for good long-board assembly houses as I've had various issues with the three UK places I'm aware ofAssembly tooling costs will be significantly higher for big boards as big stencils can be rather expensive - for smaller volumes it can be cheaper overall to use smaller PCBs and join them. AVX do a lot of nice inter-PCB connector options.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2019, 12:10:58 pm
content: This is the German placehttps://ecd-online.de/If they assemble long PCBs, they will have sources for bare PCBs
PCB Error - Looking for some advice... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rdbanks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2019, 09:23:53 pm
content: Hi all!!Right, this is my first PCB i've had produced from JLC PCB - I used Proteus (at the request of my university) and all checked out (all tests etc) however I have an issue.One of the vias (power) has a pad on the ground side (isolated) - this was meant to pass through the PCB and then onto the top plane (power plane - where the is a connector) however, due to not having a pad on the top side, there is no through hole plating and thus no connection from the bottom pad up through to the top plane..My question, without a bodge wire - what is the best way of fixing this? I've thought about an insert soldered through and scrapping the solder mask back (this would work) but is there any other way? I doubt the solder would flow up the pin to exposed copper under the connector.Oh and Dave, if you ever see this, don't hate on the black solder mask... hahahahaCheers guys and girls!Ryan

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2019, 09:29:31 pm
content: What’s wrong with a bodge wire? You can use a black one. ;-)

author: rdbanks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2019, 09:33:17 pm
content: haha, i think it may be the best way. For extra points might run it around the side of the board (top to bottom)To be fair, there is a nice pad next to it, <10mm away, it wouldn't look too bad - lessoned learned though...
HVAC thermostat - calibration room - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: forrestc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 18, 2019, 09:15:52 am
content: I've recently become aware that the thermostat in the room we do final test/calibration in is not behaving all that well, i.e. isn't that accurate. I.E. the thermostat's reading can be quite a bit different than a thermostat hung next to it. Or more accurately, multiple thermometers hung next to it. It's also across the room from the equipment (which is arguably where youI'm going to move the thermostat location to a spot near the actual test location to help ensure that the temperature is correct at that spot. Plus add wall insulation/standoff/etc. to help ensure the thermostat will measure the room air temperature and not the wall temperature.But... I don't trust this thermostat. I'd like to move to something a bit more robust/accurate.My goals:Something settable with a "heat call" set point and a separate "cooling call" setpoint, with automatic switching between them. We're in a climate where both heating and cooling is necessary during parts of the year, typically in the spring and fall, which causes problems with those thermostats which require a manual switch between heat and cool. Also bad for this application are thermostats which defer the switch from heating to cooling and back - i.e. some will require the room to get a fair bit hotter than the cool setpoint to switch to cool from heating.Because I'm dealing with trying to maintain a fairly narrow window, I also need to find a thermostat which permits the heat and cool setpoints to be close to each other. The one I have in my house requires 10*F. I'd rather something like 5*F. I also would like something which has a configurable dead zone although that isn't necessarily required if the default value is reasonable.I'm hoping that someone else has ran into this problem and found something off-the-shelf which works.And yes, this is a US HVAC system, I'm assuming HVAC systems vary around the world to some extent.
DIY Vacuum Pick Up Tool - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: JanTheVan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 26, 2019, 02:14:21 pm
content: Hi All,Looking to make a Vacuum pick up for SMT, 0603 is the smallest component.Would this pump be suitable or overkill?https://www.rapidonline.com/rvfm-gp14008-vacuum-pump-with-300ml-mineral-oil-52-2210Thanks in advance,Scott

author: graybeard
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2019, 06:39:48 am
content: That is overkill. The is a roughing pump for a vacuum system. I would work. You would want to put inline filters so as not to suck dust and particles into the pump.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2019, 06:47:31 am
content: that pump i use to withdraw air from aircon system. i also have this, think much better for your purpose, and much cheaper...https://www.ebay.com.my/itm/DC12V-Mini-Vacuum-Pump-Negative-Pressure-Suction-Pump-5L-min-120kpa-With-Holder/122072411176?hash=item1c6c152c28:g:Y1YAAOSwHodcdSBR:rk:1:pf:0

author: graybeard
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2019, 05:13:12 pm
content: That one looks perfect for a pick-up tool, and reasonably priced as well.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2019, 07:06:35 pm
content: You may find this video interesting

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 24, 2019, 10:23:45 am
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on March 03, 2019, 06:47:31 amI personally wouldn't recommend a piston pump like that, a diaphragm pump will be quieter and a bit more amenable to continuous use under vacuum.
Strain relief of SMD connectors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lutkeveld
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2019, 09:31:25 am
content: For a product I need a 6P JSTXH right angle connector and a DC jack.What are your experiences with strain relief on these components?Is SMD reliable or is THT preferred?

author: rbm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2019, 09:38:14 am
content: There's a fair bit of resistance offered when removing a 6-pole JST connector. If the application demands that the cable be inserted & removed often, my preference would be for through-hole mounting. If the application is "plug-it-in-and-forget-it", then SMD would be ok IMO.

author: jonroger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2019, 01:17:18 pm
content: Vias make pads much more resistant to being pulled off the board. On the other hand, vias right under pins cause solder drainage problems. I looked at adding epoxy to a SMD connector, but it was too much hassle. Larger pads should also be more resistant to being pulled off.

author: olkipukki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2019, 12:15:39 am
content: Quote from: lutkeveld on March 19, 2019, 09:31:25 amThere are pro or cons...For example, TH right-angle (aka side entry type) a bit of loose since lack of support overall header area compare to SMD

author: HalFET
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2019, 01:43:11 pm
content: I might not make myself popular with this one with the repair crowd, but: adding underfill ain't a bad idea. And some glue or potting compound on the pins is a good idea if feasible.
ALL PCB - Stackups - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 09:13:44 pm
content: If you need a known Stackup for your project, then its good to know what it is before you start.I was able to get this from Allpcb recently. Many fabs seem just to say 'yeah yeah, we will make what you ask for', but sometimes pick the 'closest' one and hope its all good.In many cases you'd get away with that, but if you want controlled impedance tracks.. not so much.
Air compressor unit for pick and place machine? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Chrno522
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 20, 2019, 05:49:48 am
content: Hi!What is the air compressor requirement for a pick and place machine like smt660 or smt880? I know the require 0.5mpa but all the air compressor measure in psi and lpm.Anyone have any recommendation for a cheap air compressor for the pick and place machine?Do I require to buy an air dryer?Or just buy a water trap addon to the air compressor is good enough?Hope to get more advise from all. Thanks.

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2019, 10:51:11 am
content: I woudl highly recommend a dryer. You absolutely dont' want to get any moisture through your accuators.My line which at full noise is placing 15,000pph, needs about 350l/minute. Thats a pair of Yamaha YV machines.

author: Chrno522
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 20, 2019, 12:36:58 pm
content: Oh so those 180lph in a 30 litre tank wont do the job?How many litre tank storage and litre per hour did you use for the 2 pick and place machine?What is the hp and flow or psi would you recommend per pick and place machine?

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2019, 07:45:14 pm
content: Quote from: Chrno522 on April 20, 2019, 12:36:58 pmMy compressor is 3kW / 3phase, and it can deliver 450l/min. I have an external 200l receiver tank.. If both machiens are running at the same time, doing 'typical' work i need about 180l/minute. I supply air to the machines at .8Mpa, they have regulator which reduce the air to .5Mpa, so there is a bit of air bleed. The manual for the PNP machines says they need up to 300l/min each, but i've never run out of air, so i think that 300l is probably a very conservative figure. The compressor is normally on for about 45 seconds every three minutes i'd guess.Everyones set up is different, you'll need to figure it out.

author: Chrno522
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 22, 2019, 12:58:55 am
content: thank you mrpackethead.Do you have a separate air dryer?Do the water traps that can buy separately addon to the outlet and inlet of the air from the air compressor is good enough?

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2019, 03:08:36 am
content: Yes, i have a refriderated air dryer.The 'water' traps trap moisture that has condensed out, and are a good thing. However its the water vapour that has not condensed out that is the problem. The air gets very warm when its compressed.. As soon as that warm air hits something cold ( like yoru PNP machine ) it will condense out.. And it will have gone right past the water trap.

author: Chrno522
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 22, 2019, 11:52:20 pm
content: look like an air dryer is a must then...Do you know any good brand and model with a reasonable price for air compressor and air dryer?I want something that is quiet to run or as less noise as possible.
6j1 fever preamplifier buffer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Vasilismt
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 12:02:27 am
content: Hallo everyone!First time I post something here. I am wondering does anybody has this little Chinese thing 6j1 pre amplifier and if has an annoying hum audio noise . No matter how hard I tried to get rid of this noise is still there! The only improvement I had was when I turned off the LEDs under the tubes (removing resistors) and connected heater tubes powered by a stabilized ps . I bought the kit fromhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/6J1-Valve-Preamp-Tube-PreAmplifier-Board-Headphone-Amplifier-Buffer-Acrylic-Case/272645558253?hash=item3f7af10fed:g:~2AAAOSwlulbXuV1

author: Vasilismt
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 10:42:40 pm
content: I found the problem finally . The resistor of anode was not the right value which adjusts the gain of tube. The right value fixed the problem

author: Theboel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 10:57:57 pm
content: look to interesting to play on the weekenddo you mind to share more about repair You have done ?
Please HELP: Ersa or Finetech Rework Stations? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: LAPSKRFC
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 12:02:12 am
content: Dear all,I'm considering to buy a nice rework station for our lab. We are not gonna do mass production and the smallest components that we will be soldering is in the order of 0201 smd components. Actually, I'm considering the following three machines and still I'm not able to pick one. Budget-wise I can cover any of them but I just wanna make sure that I'm selecting the right one.https://www.kurtzersa.com/electronics-production-equipment/rework-inspection-systems/rework-systems/produkt-details/hr-550-1.html*****This one will cost about $40k.https://www.finetech.de/products/finetech-product-overview/all-round-hot-air-bga-rework-station-fineplacer-core-plus/*****This one will cost about $70k. And if I add a dispensing module it will cost about $84k. Another good thing about this is that If I get it I wont need a reflow machine.https://www.pcb-repair.com/bga-rework-station/sv560-bga-rework-station/This one costs about $23k.The boards that I will be placing the components on will be max 20cm*20cm. And I would prefer to be able to place components all over the board.Could you please let me know if you have any suggestion on this? Any other machine that is better in this price range?I very much appreciate your help with this.

author: LAPSKRFC
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 09:53:05 pm
content: ?

author: LAPSKRFC
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2019, 05:03:00 pm
content: Any help is appreciated

author: mairo
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 22, 2019, 11:33:24 pm
content: The only suggestion I can make (as some one else also mentioned it in your other topic) on these machines is, that if you are prepared to spend that amount of money, just approach the manufacturer/distributor and ask them for demo - either they come to you with the machines (less likely as these abit bulky), or you go to them with your boards.

author: LAPSKRFC
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2019, 03:56:46 pm
content: Thanks a lot
Using Molex Crimper with JST terminals? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: newto
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2019, 08:17:24 pm
content: I feel like this is obvious, but I can't find anything specific about it when I search (other than "universal" crimpers).We've got a bunch of Molex crimpers on hand, but we need a short wire to wire connection for 22awg, which I can't seem to find any from Molex. But I can find one from JST.Can we use a Molex crimper on JST terminals?

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2019, 07:49:39 am
content: What specific crimper(s) do you have in mind? Molex offers so many classes and species for so many different terminals.Knowing nothing else, my answer would be: yes, you can use the crimper – if you are lucky. As my hero, Clint Eastwood, once said: "You've got to ask yourself one question: 'Do I feel lucky?' Well, do you, punk?"
Unintended plates holes | Caused by laser cutting? | JLCPCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ju
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 08, 2019, 12:03:07 am
content: Hi!This is not a question, but simply an interesting discovery I made.Maybe someone encountered similar things or are interested in a discussion.I ordered some PCBs from JLCPCB and a few days ago they arrived.After a quick inspection I discovered something interesting.The PCBs are daughterboards and had to include a clearance hole for a rotary encoder on the board below.I added a decent amount of pullback to the ground planes.But still, the holes got plated.I wondered a bit but then remembered something I discovered on JLC boards before.JLC seems to use laser cutting instead of milling for holes and probably slots as well. This can be seen at the hole edges, as they are burnt as laser cut edges are:When I remember correctly, to plate through holes intendedly PCB manufacturers use a conductive inc and cote the inside of the holes with it to be able to do electroplating as the next step.Now my PCBs make the impression that the carbonization by the laser may have encouraged copper deposition during the plating process.While writing this post I realise that this may become an issue if you are not careful enough during design stage and / or the pullback around holes it not big enough.Here is one of the holes partially plated, you can see a nice little nick in the platingI personally don't care, in my case it just makes the PCB look a bit more polished and beautifulCan you imagine cases in which this can become a serious issue?Do you agree with my analysis or do you have any other thoughts on this?Did you maybe experienced something similar with JLC or other, maybe high priced, manufacturers?Hope you find my first post somewhat interesting.Have a nice evening and an amazing weekend!Greetings from Berlin

author: ju
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 08, 2019, 12:05:19 am
content: I got a database error reported by the site and submitted again.Now I see I posted twice, but cannot delete this thread.Could a mod do that for me? Sorry
through hole on one side, surface mount on other - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: loki42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2019, 01:21:19 am
content: Is there a major downside of this kind of assembly? I have a few connectors that are through hole and I currently put them on the other side of the board to everything else. I assume this makes selective soldering / wave soldering harder? Should I attempt to get everything on the same side if possible?

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2019, 01:30:06 am
content: Selective soldering (solder fountain) was developed for this type of assembly. There are keep-out margins for SMD on the solder side, of course, but it does work. When wave soldering was used, solder-side SMDs needed to be glued in place; selective soldering removes that step.If you use pin-in-paste, the THT must be inserted from the top, or else have kinked pins. SMD on the bottom side during IR reflow is possible but may require special set-up.

author: loki42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2019, 01:36:03 am
content: Cool, would it cost more to manufacture this than a single sided mixed SMD/THT board?

author: OwO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2019, 03:33:30 am
content: If you have just 2 or 3 through hole parts and everything else is surface mount, it might still be more economical to hand solder the through hole stuff after reflow.

author: Reckless
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2019, 01:25:38 am
content: I'm running into same issue and still figuring it out. In meantime I bought a used 12" wave solder machine. Debating between using adhesive and curing in my Reflow oven or making custom pallets to protect SMT components from heat. The wave solder machine I got has dual waves but needs 375 lbs of solder (I only have 120 lbs currently).

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2019, 05:42:32 am
content: Quote from: Reckless on March 03, 2019, 01:25:38 amAnd will take about 4 hours to be ready from turning it on?

author: Reckless
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2019, 06:10:49 am
content: 2 for lead free, I was planning on leaving it on 24/7 or atleast 4 days a week. Based on my production needs we need it for 2 hours/day. I just hope its not a huge nightmare/mess to run repeatably. It will subtract the need for so many hand soldering operators.

author: loki42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2019, 06:34:34 am
content: Quote from: blueskull on February 28, 2019, 03:55:26 am@helius mentioned pin-in-paste as well, it looks like interesting tech! I've swapped to having all my components on one side now.

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2019, 09:56:41 pm
content: Quote from: loki42 on March 04, 2019, 06:34:34 amI do this for *some* connectors. You very much need to check that the connectors however will survive a reflow cycle. Some of them will end up being a melted pile of plastic.
Infrared rework stations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2019, 02:47:17 am
content: Has anyone here used one of those? Are they worthwile? Any model to suggest (only for prototyping needs, nothing too fancy)? I've seen a few chinese ones around $400-$500 which are pretty basic. Don't know if they are even worth that?Additionally, I'm also wondering whether there exists some kind of IR "soldering irons" a bit like the hot air ones (haven't really found any), but infrared-based? I think that could prove very useful as an alternative to hot air, as the absence of air flow would help tremendously with handling very small parts. Don't know if that would be usable as an handheld tool. Any opinion?
Burnt PCB "thin toasts" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: olkipukki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2019, 12:12:59 pm
content: I am experimenting with different boards thicknesses and got (attached) unpleasantresult on 1mm board. I kept an initial temperature profile without change that always in use for standard 1.6mm boards.What cause this issue: wrong temperature profile, manufacture fault or something else?

author: SMTech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2019, 12:59:11 pm
content: Looks like it got pretty hot to me

author: olkipukki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2019, 01:44:49 pm
content: Quote from: SMTech on February 27, 2019, 12:59:11 pmDo you mean in general or just fo this type of thin 1mm boards?Do you usually adjust temperature profiles depends from PCB stack, material and thickness?

author: SMTech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2019, 02:27:34 pm
content: Yep, heavy 2.5mm PCB, 2Oz copper, Ceramic PCBs etc would all need more than a typical 1Oz, 1.6mm PCB. Likewise a 1mm PCB would need less, the peak temperature, time at liquidous, time of process can vary a bit depending on what other things are on the board and what they need to reflow, to go this black I would wonder whether perhaps your normal profile might also be a touch warm.

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2019, 08:26:22 pm
content: Quote from: olkipukki on February 27, 2019, 12:12:59 pmI've had a couple accidents like that. The board must have gotten severely overheated, maybe 350 - 400 C. I reflow boards in a toaster oven, and poke a tiny thermocouple into a through-hole in the board, so it regulated ACTUAL temperature of the board itself. One time, I forgot to poke the thermocouple in the hole, it was just dangling in the oven. The boards caught FIRE! It was a horrible mess. That's the difference between the air in the oven and the board!Jon
Weird unconnected 0 Ohm SMD resistors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nergal
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2019, 10:02:34 am
content: Hello,I have the habit of disassembling anything that I get my hands on just to look at what is beneath the hood. I recently got a generic LED driver module form one of the local bricolage DIY retailers.When looking at it I found some interesting/weird thing that I had no idea how to explain. Close to each of the corners of the board there is an 0 ohm SMD resistor that is not connected to anything. It's just the footprint and the resistor soldered to it. (Photos attached)I believe that this should be related to the assembly process, but I have no idea why they would need such a thing. The board is two layers, with SMD components glued to the bottom and both SMD and TH components on the top. You are seeing the top.Anyone know what these are for?Regards.

author: ogden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2019, 10:16:28 am
content: Yes this is assembly process aid, 0R resistor is least expensive component. This is for checking/tuning reflow temperature profile in case there's big thermal mass components on the PCB. It also will be aid for AOI that cannot look under big component in critical area of the PCB.
IPC Membership - is it worth? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: olkipukki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2019, 01:29:34 pm
content: They offers 50% off for the fist-time members.Is somebody here has their membership? How often they update standards, and in your option - is it worth in general?

author: forrestc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 28, 2019, 07:07:06 pm
content: Quote from: olkipukki on February 27, 2019, 01:29:34 pmIt really depends.I (actually the company I own) was an IPC member for quite some time, actually was chair of a data exchange standards comittee for a while too...I was paying the $775 rate (under $5M of revenue here). It was worth it when I was going to IPC APEX EXPO every year and taking the professional development classes since it was over $775 of discounts just for those.Although I did collect quite a few of the standards, it was really a pain to get the free ones as you had to remember to request them within a certain window, then they were digital and locked to a single PC. You also only get access to the ones which are being revised, which may or may not be of interest to you. Generally the most general interest ones are often the most stagnant not because they're out of date but because the technology has stabilized. For instance, the PCB design standard IPC-2221 was released in 1998, and then wasn't revised until May 2003, and the most recent revision (IPC-2221B) was released in 2012. You can look similarly for other standard documents.A couple years back I ended up at the point that I couldn't spend the time necessary to continue helping out with the committee I was chairing, and also had taken many of the professional development classes which were relevant so it got to be not really cost beneficial anymore, so I dropped it. I think this is the second year I haven't had a membership. I might consider re-starting at some point, but until then It's just cheaper to buy the standards I need.One note: If you're interested in learning board design, the CID class does include all of the standards and covers a lot of useful information. So does a lot of the classes for inspection, soldering, and so on . You might want to look there as well.
PCBWay bug (fixed) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fire Doger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2019, 06:51:23 pm
content: A couple days ago I was trying to make a C# software which can login to pcbway.While I was poking around in chrome I found a bug which gave me access to links I shouldn't have.I was intend to publish the whole info but they send me the tracking record which clearly displays that I am the only one who have found it.So everything is ok, now their security is much better than other Chinese competitors

author: LapTop006
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 28, 2019, 06:46:42 am
content: Sad how often companies need to be called out in public to fix this sort of thing.