hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Asus Laptop N550JK eDP Port Backlight bad Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: richi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 20, 2022, 09:09:02 pm
content: Hello,I haven't had a little odyssey with my laptop. First was the display cable with a sporadic defect. I exchanged the cable and unfortunately the display broke on the inside or on the back when I removed the plastic frame. The original was lp156wf4 and today I installed a B156HAN02.3. And as luck would have it, the connector on the display kept slipping out during installation. So I tested the whole display without the case and it worked.It then happened on the 3rd installation attempt.... when the cable was plugged into the mainboard, the laptop was obviously started and there was a short circuit with sparks. But who takes out the battery when you want to test.Now the new display is functional, but I have hardly any brightness. I usually set the brightness to minimum under windows, everything seems ok, one level higher it also gets brighter. But from the 3 level it gets darker again. And also the old cracked display shows the same behavior when I plug it in.It seems to me that the supply voltage for the LED collapses or it is the PWM signal.There is no scorched component visible on top of the mainboard.I assume that a converter for the LED lighting is installed somewhere on the mainboard and that it is defective.Does anyone happen to know the Asus board for the N550 series and can help here?the short circuit was in the J4501 in the area of the first pins. Is pin 6 the PWM?How would you go about fixing that? If something is on the underside of the board, I can't test it when it's dismantled. What voltage should be applied to Backlite Power?Oszi Rigol is available but becomes difficult to control and measure without 5 hands.

author: richi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 27, 2022, 02:48:17 pm
content: now a little update, i have now found Time for fix it :-)I have remove mainboard, and i found a burn out coil.I found on internet 2 sites who have fix it.. but with different values.there was also talk that it doesn't matter and is only for protection and that it also works with a wire bridge.What values should the coil have? 120ohm 3A or 220ohm 3A or other ?
Asus motherboard  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: funky2x
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2022, 07:00:44 pm
content: Motherboard: Asus strix b360-f gamingProblem : By accident I erased the spi flash winbond w25x05 near the grafic card. I don't have copy of the bin file.Any help with getting the Bin file. From owner of this motherboard or any guide where I can get a copy?Really appreciate any helpThank you all.

author: vidarr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2022, 10:38:24 pm
content: Your best bet is to find someone with the same board. Go to the Asus forums (for that board).Asus will not help you, so don't waste your time there. I used to buy Asus hardware exclusively, but their quality over the last 10 years has plummeted to garbage. I no longer buy any of their products.Find an owner of that board.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2022, 03:02:00 am
content: https://vinafix.com/threads/rog-strix-b360-f-gaming.41708/https://www.repairlap.com/threads/rog-strix-b360-g-gaming-bios.14043/https://driverscollection.com/_524756257412e0426f737821b4b/Download-ASUS-ROG-STRIX-B360-F-GAMING-BIOS-v.1901-freehttps://drivers.plus/get/f/f/1/3/2/ROG-STRIX-B360-F-GAMING-ASUS-0401.zip

author: funky2x
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2022, 05:48:45 pm
content: Thank you for sharing the links. I need bin file for the w25x05 (512k) spi flash memory. The links is to download the bin for the bios. which not the one the i need.

author: funky2x
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2022, 05:51:33 pm
content: Quote from: vidarr on November 03, 2022, 10:38:24 pmI agree with your idea to write in Asus forum

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 04, 2022, 05:53:28 pm
content: How you managed to erase it? It's not like you can do so while updating bios. What it's responsible for? Does motherboard still partially work?
ASUS PSU high voltage on electolytic capacitor? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rks96
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2023, 07:30:10 pm
content: Hi! ASUS PSU block ADP-90CD DB blow up and shorted. The main breaker also popped! When I peeled open the casing, I found out that the electrolytic capacitor had blown. Ordered a cheap replacement in hopes of having a spare PSU block after a simple fix. When I replaced the electrolytic capacitor and tested the unit, everything worked as it should.Electrolytic caps are usually one of the components that go first in electronics, so I wasn’t surprised that the capacitor failed. Out of curiosity more than anything, I measured the voltage on the capacitor ,and it was nearly 500V, but, the capacitor is rated 450V!?!? This can’t be normal!! After searching online for PSU model, I found this post in Russian with exactly the same damage except in this case, the PSU failed in open circuit mode!https://easywork.com.ua/remont-bloka-pitaniya-asus-adp-90cd-db-2.htmlAs far as I can understand, while using Google translate and my minimal understanding of electronics, the author of this post simply replaced the capacitor same as me and called it done? In this case, there is 464V on the capacitor. So, my question is … is it ok to call PSU fixed and use it as it is?The author of the post also links to a Russian forum where there is more discussion about this exact problem and it looks like power correction could be the cause of this problem.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 06, 2023, 07:39:38 pm
content: Most likely some resistor in PFC output voltage feedback loop failed open or its resistance drifted.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 06, 2023, 07:44:04 pm
content: Schematic over the link is not a schematic of this PSU but typical circuit taken from PWM controller datasheet. It has nothing to do with PFC. Voltage after PFC usually is about 400V and for sure it must not exceed rated voltage of the capacitor. Voltage in power supplies witout PFC should be below 350V.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2023, 03:45:40 am
content: Normally if the controller chip is working, and everything to it, it should slow down or shut down if the voltage gets that high. On ATX PSU's I've worked on, it's usually sensed through a few high value resistors, and a small 1, which divide ~340V down to ~ 1V, for the controller chip. If it gets too high, most chips should just shut down/reset.
Asus RS587 Graphics Card - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: hobbit666
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2021, 12:22:38 pm
content: Go easy on me, i'm learningI've got a Asus RX578 off a friend to look at and if i can fix i can keepI've done some basics tests from info on the internet and here, but not sure where and what else to test.Someone did mention to me mosfets, but i'm not sure how what mode to use on the meter and where to stick the probes.Attached are some readings i've taken. To me looks like an issue on the 5V rail.

author: Wallace Gasiewicz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2021, 10:30:02 pm
content: Maybe ask on the computer group?

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2021, 01:05:32 am
content: seeing as you dont know how to measure a mosfet you need to start at the fundamentals, going from zero to repairing a graphic card is like asking gardener to quickly learn about nuclear power stations because one is having a meltdownyou can try louis rossmann stuff for beginnershttps://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1PkeO_lC5WTPScSV3ZzEEjVuDWeQtL2eHK6jEcf7axA0/htmlpresentEngineers might cringe at this content because of over simplification, jumping over fundamentals, metaphors, chaos etc. But its not for us, we suffered >5 years of learning the hard way, this stuff is for bootstrapping people from zero ee knowledge aka you.
[solved] Asus VE276Q monitor with unidentified burnt component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: crozenfox
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 12, 2024, 09:55:31 pm
content: Hi all,My monitor no longer works. There is one component that burned.The monitor is an Asus VE276Q.Can you identify this component ?The reference is something like LT2124 631006 if i see it right !Thanks

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2024, 10:38:09 pm
content: I'm guessing it's a 100V, 3A Schottky rectifier (B3100B ??).Similar to ...https://datasheet.octopart.com/B3100-13-F-Diodes-Inc.-datasheet-7554362.pdfhttps://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/mbrs3100t3-d.pdfPage 14 of the datasheet for the MP3389 shows a B180 diode:https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/documentview/productdocument/index/version/2/document_type/Datasheet/lang/en/sku/MP3389/document_id/1533/

author: crozenfox
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 13, 2024, 11:02:50 am
content: Thank you very much. You are great !I found two components :One is a SMC case with a 200pF capacitance while the other one is a SMB with 105pF capacitance.Here are the links :https://www.tme.eu/be/en/details/b3100-13-f/smd-schottky-diodes/diodes-incorporated/https://www.tme.eu/be/en/details/b3100be-13/smd-schottky-diodes/diodes-incorporated/What do you think should i try ?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2024, 11:28:18 am
content: I would use whichever diode has the correct dimensions. Check the output for short to ground.

author: crozenfox
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 13, 2024, 07:12:53 pm
content: okThe dimensions are this one. So, i will try with it. Thnxhttps://datasheet.octopart.com/B3100-13-F-Diodes-Inc.-datasheet-7554362.pdf

author: crozenfox
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 16, 2024, 09:28:50 pm
content: Job done. Works very well !Thank you a lot, this forum is great !
Asus VE276Q monitor with unidentified burnt component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: dangerj
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 01, 2019, 12:40:38 am
content: Hi !I have an Asus monitor (model VE276Q) that wont power with a burnt component on one of the pcb in the back. The component seems to be some sort of ic labeled4616 BA1N17.I've been researching the component on sites like Digikey and Mouser without much luck. I've also tried to find schematics or diagram of the monitor without finding anything.The component is on the side where the power comes in.Do you guys have any idea what the component might be and where (if possible) could I find it?If needed I can post higher resolution of the PCB.Thanks a lot!

author: dangerj
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 01, 2019, 12:42:22 am
content: Picture of the burnt component :

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2019, 04:20:55 am
content: AO4616, Alpha & Omega, 30V Complementary MOSFET, N-ch 30V, 8A, P-ch -30v, -7A, RDSon = 22mOhm, SOIC-8:http://www.aosmd.com/pdfs/datasheet/AO4616.pdf

author: dangerj
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 01, 2019, 02:37:52 pm
content: Thanks!I'll keep you posted on the repair.Have a good one!
ASUS ZenBook 14 UX433F Super IO replacement. Is programming required? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Ivan_s_Lab
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 26, 2020, 11:26:05 pm
content: Greetings, I have an ASUS ZenBook 14 UX433F which does not boot or turn on at all. When plugged in via the charger the power LED and power button LED come and stay permanently on. I have narrowed down the issue to the Super IO IC which is a ITE IT8225VG-128. Any information on this particular chip is scarce to non-existent. My question is does a replacement Super IO IC of this type require programming in order to work in my particular laptop or is the IC BIOS programmed (the BIOS loads firmware automatically on it)? I barely managed to find a source for one used however I haven't purchased any yet and I do not know in what laptop has it been previously in.Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2020, 12:34:42 am
content: I found a picture of a schematic for a laptop with that EC and it shows a connection to an external SPI flash, but alsothis post on one of those horrible pay-to-download forumswhcih seems to imply it has its own 128K of flash, so I'm not sure...I have also read that if you manage to convince ITE you're writing Linux/other OS drivers, they may send you a datasheet - that might be where the ones you can find came from.

author: Ivan_s_Lab
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 03, 2020, 12:09:45 am
content: So basically it's a 50/50 shot if I replace the Super IO and I need to see if a flash or eeprom links to it somehow. I also noticed that there is a footprint for a debug connector on the opposite side of the board underneath the Super IO with the lettering Jdebug4402 which I am guessing is for an external programmer.EDIT:I have located an W25Q128JV SPI chip that links directly to the Super IO. I think I'll try to replace it.

author: rxtx
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 15, 2022, 03:10:00 pm
content: Did you manage to bring up the EC chip?I heard on ASUS the EC can bootstrap directly from main flash, so flashing might not be necessary
ATD2 Studio Monitor Amplifier help based on TDA8920BTH and 8922 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Dirtynut
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 03:43:57 am
content: Hi everyone, I’m new to to forums and would like to thank in advance everyone who is willing to help.I have a pair of studio monitors (speakers) And one of them started to sound as if the speaker was blown, I took the amps out of the speaker that sounded blown and upon further inspection i noticed that a capacitor had blown off as you can see in the picture. I have no idea what value this capacitor is supposed to be(based on PDFs for the 8920bth seems like 100nf), The amps is a three channel design but is only being used for the lows. I know there are some very smart people on these forums and I was hoping someone could help. I’ll list what I’ve tried and what I’ve observed below:Tried amp from working speaker on speaker that sounded blow and everything sounds fine.Took capacitor circled in yellow and replaced blown capacitor circled in red (didn’t work)Tried different value capacitors and now the display on the back of the monitors says amplifier error (might have damaged good capacitor as well).Thanks in advance to anyone willing to help.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 04:30:02 am
content: The pad under that capacitor circled in red may be f'ed up... be prepared to use a bit of wire if needed to solder to trace.The circuits should be more or less identical but that chip may be in btl mode instead of 2 separate channelsCheck all the resistors, one may be blown without visible signs. Replace that chip, it's probably gone as well.

author: Dirtynut
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 05:15:56 am
content: You’re absolutely right the pad is f’ed up so I’ve attached wires so I can test different caps without constantly soldering and unsoldering. As far as the chips one chip is a TDA8920BTH and the other is a TDA8922BTH but it seems as if the 8922 was bypass or not used from the factory as there is two other separate amps for the mids and highs. The funny thing is even with the blown capacitor it was working fine except the low end sounded like the coils was fried and only at higher volumes, but since I’ve taken the capacitor off of the 8922 and used it on the 8920 side now the rear display just says amplifier error. The voltage coming into the unit is 27v +/- and the voltage across where the cap is supposed to be is 54v according to my meter.Some more pics. Thanks for the reply

author: vdamdavid007
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 06, 2020, 03:09:00 pm
content: Hey there,a bit off topic here, but does someone have the "SCS software" for controlling the monitors?i have a couple of AV2.D but lost the installation files.https://manualzilla.com/doc/5975190/scs-user-manualthis is the manualThanks in Advance!
Atlas LCR - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Pilib
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 01, 2024, 03:11:51 pm
content: HI FolksI am having a go at repairing a Peak LCR40, have found an ic which has an internal short. The part is 14 pin and marked 45D6JHM 26241 on the top and 01A37 on the bottom. Have tried searching the internet but have had no luck, I wondered if any members could offer any advice please? Many Thanks, Philip.

author: Fenstergucker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2024, 04:39:09 pm
content: Perhaps a Texas Instruments TLV2624 OpAmp. The '1' at the end is an 'I'.Peter

author: Pilib
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 02, 2024, 08:05:46 am
content: Many thanks Peter, The markings on the ic are not clear but what's left of the symbol could be Texas Instrument's. I think you have solved the problem so will order one and try it.I will let you know as to what happens.Thanks again, Best wishes, Philip.
Atlas Peak ESR70+ question (in-circuit ESR testing) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: cvanc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2020, 02:07:59 pm
content: Measuring in-circuit ESR of big 'beer can' computer grade electrolytics. How tolerant is the ESR70+ of a low value bleeder resistor in parallel with the DUT, for example 1KΩ?Thanks.
Atorch DL24 Part ID  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: what-da
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 12:02:09 pm
content: looking to identify 2 IC on Atorch DL24Thanks In Advance

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 01:16:17 pm
content: The other chip, you have to use light, zoom, and apply some flux off on it and look at angles. Online in photos these chips are lazer etched off so you can't see markings.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 04:03:10 pm
content: This is the manufacturer of the "JL" IC:https://www.zh-jieli.com/

author: what-da
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 07, 2024, 12:41:34 am
content: From what I can work out the chip on the right is AC6328A2 SOP-8

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2024, 01:39:55 am
content: Quote from: what-da on November 07, 2024, 12:41:34 amhttps://www.yunthinker.net/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/AC6328A_Datasheet-V1.0.pdf
Attempt to repair a "non-repairable" shaving machine base - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: psysc0rpi0n
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2024, 12:16:57 pm
content: Hello.A few years ago (in 2017 iirc), I bought a Philips S9521 with a base called SmartClean.This base has at least 2 functions. 1 is to clean the head of the shaver and the other is to dry the head after the cleaning. This drying function stopped working. So I took the base to a Philips dealer and they opened the base and I was told that there is a motor that stopped working and that this motor is no longer sold.This motor is probably responsible to suck the cleaning liquid up to the head of the shaver, from the bottom of the base where the liquid container is.I don't remember if this function was still working but I think it was, so when I was told the motor was bad, I "didn't buy it" right away.So, when I got home, I decided to open the SmartClean and the first thing that popped to my eye sight was this:This is some kind of inductor / heat element that is responsible for the rying function. I see 4 wires. 2 copper wires and 2 red coated copper wires. One of these red coated copper wires is cut short. I bet this is the cause of the heating / drying function not being working.In this case, I need confirmation of more experienced people to tell me that this is the case and that if I am able to bridge that gap, that the heating element will work again.About the motor, I'll check it when I fix this part because it might not work if the base is not fully assembled and the liquid container is not in place due to sensors sensing the absence of the liquid container!Another picture:

author: psysc0rpi0n
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2025, 05:52:07 pm
content: Diode modeR = red probeB = black probeG-S - R-B means Red probe on Gate and Black probe on SourceG-S - B-R means Balck probe on Gate and Red probe on Source (reverse of the above)G-S - R-B = 0.9944V, B-R = 0.8377VG-D - R-B = 0.9831V, B-R = 0.8480VD-S - R-B = 0.1417V, B-R = -0.0095VResistanceG-S = 10.104kG-D = 11.157kD-S = 405 ohmMeasurements done to a FDMS86252 mosfet present on the board where the heating element seems to be conenctedI think this mosfet is done, no?

author: psysc0rpi0n
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2025, 12:26:47 pm
content: Well, I end up removing the mosfet from the board and tried to test it by turning it ON with 2 external power supplies.So I put 15V on drain, a 10k ohm resistor between Gate and Source and connected Source to GND. Then, I applied 8V to the Gate and the Drain voltage dropped to 0V. When I removed the 8V from Gate, the Drain voltage went back to 15V. So, I think the mosfet is just fine, right?I attached a partial picture of the surroundings of the MOSFET, maybe someone can help me going a step further!
Attempted repair of the audio output stage of a Bose L1 model 1 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Homyox
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 20, 2025, 07:56:07 pm
content: Hello everyone, before writing I saw that here there is already an object now "vintage" like the one I propose to you but with a different problem. I took the device to a repair center where they promised me to repair it easily but unfortunately it was not so. This Bose L1 model 1 has always had problems with the audio power amplifier. First the mid channel, then both mid and treble channels.Since I have an electronics education, the first time I tried to replace the TDA8927 final chips by myself but without success. Later, having a small smartphone repair laboratory at my disposal, I also replaced the driver chip, again without obtaining anything. The audio power board is made up of 3 identical channels and the bass one fortunately is still working so I can make comparisons with the voltages and the signal path.My education in electronics is rather rusty and I do not manage to grasp the full meaning of the circuitry, especially the one I attach in the image that affects the "Mute" pin of the driver chip. After replacing the chips I checked all the connections, I also checked the diodes and everything I could test on board. Advice on how to proceed will be greatly appreciated.Schematics:https://it.scribd.com/document/420530329/Bose-Ps1-l1-Rev1-Schematics-478018https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/19598/PHILIPS/TDA8927J.html

author: Homyox
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 02, 2025, 04:19:06 pm
content: Hello everyone, I see with regret that the interest in this topic is very limited. It's a shame because surely someone out there is struggling with the same problem, or has been forced to sell the system in pieces as spare parts. Since I have time to waste and I'm not in a hurry, I tried to fall back on 'plan B' the intermediate solution before moving on to 'plan C' which consists of adding an expensive external amplifier $$. I then identified a Chinese amplifier board that mounts chips very similar to the Philips of the original but more simplified and without drivers. I chose this board essentially for the dual power supply +27 - 27 volts.Even if it does not reach a power equal to the original from the tests I did it seemed like a good solution. Unfortunately, when happy with the result, I was already about to reassemble everything I did the last test and I realized that the power supply on the board collapses miserably without ever reaching stability.It probably depends on a control system with which the switching power supply is designed, but I can't figure out how to solve this problem. The power supply collapse occurs even if the board is connected in parallel to the original circuit (which we know doesn't work). If I connect only the non-working circuit, the voltage remains stable in its +- 27 V. I attach the diagram of a power supply module.
ATTEN ADS 1062C oscilloscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mizohalen
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 11:04:30 am
content: Hello to everyone, my name is Michele and I am a new user of this forum.I have an ATTEN ADS 1062C Oscilloscope. I tried last week to update the firmware with SIGLENT firmware SDS1000CML_SSP_V100R005B01D02P32.ADS and as result scope turn on , but is not working properly. The images on the scope shifted also to the right so it is possible to try a firmware change just knowing the sequence of button to push.I tried to restored an original ATTEN firmware , but it is not recognized as valid, since now it is a "SIGLENT"...I have read in this forum that it is possible to restore it just with a DUMP file thorugh a JTAG...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/atten-ads1022c-not-work-after-firmware-upgrade/msg1275367/#msg1275367Sincerly I have no time a patience to try also this and I have already ordered a New Siglent scope SDS2202X-E.Well my first question, is there really any possibility to restore this scope?If yes would someone in this forum make it for me?If not I am also glad to give it away.Thanks in advance.
Atten ADS1022C+ not work after firmware upgrade - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ManMan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 09, 2017, 02:43:01 pm
content: Hi AllPlease Help !my Atten ADS1022C+ not work after firmware upgrade ((I have only flash dump from ADS1102CAL (7" display)after flash this dump, i upgrade original Atten ADS1000 series firmware from USB, and get an almost working DSOdue to non-compliance hardware ((I need Atten ADS1022C+..ADS1042..ADS1062 or Siglent SDS1022CFlash dump.and Siglent SDS1022C latest Firmwareburningant@mail.ruThe owner of this oscilloscope can not only help me, but also protect yourself by making a dump of your firmware.. All you need to download the firmware DUMP via JTAG is herehttps://cloud.mail.ru/public/D9hP/vaBkzVoyT

author: adrianoafg
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 06, 2017, 02:10:41 am
content: good eveningI'm having the same problem, I have an atten ads 1102ca and updated with the 1102cal file that is 7 ".I need the firmware of ads 1102ca or sds1102cm.Can someone help me?Thank you.

author: ManMan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 07, 2017, 01:00:15 pm
content: Quote from: adrianoafg on August 06, 2017, 02:10:41 amADS1102_Software V2.0https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_zX2dDtHzm3R0ozV2poSVUwaU0ADS1000CA Series_Software V3.0https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_zX2dDtHzm3OHVYejNROWtWbnc

author: kimer23
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 27, 2017, 09:03:28 pm
content: Quote from: ManMan on August 07, 2017, 01:00:15 pmHi,I have ADS1022C+ . I build WIGGLER JTAG. I run TopJTAGFlash and update *.ads file format. After ca. 3h update completed and scope displayed dark screen. I need correctly dump for my scope. Thx

author: ManMan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 07, 2019, 10:30:31 pm
content: Hi, Allafter much torment, I managed to assemble a work dump from the parts..All Working fine!

author: koshi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 01, 2020, 01:15:49 pm
content: Thanks a lot!So as all of you trying to fix bugs on my siglent sds1102cm 5" by flashing sds1102cnl firmwareI flash mydso_ok.zip directly in S29GL032n90TFI04 by programmer, because it's too quickly for me. Now it's works perfectly well, but recognising as ADS1102C+. I think, this dump will be work with all ADS1042C+ ADS1022C+ and SDS1152CM SDS1102CM SDS1062CM models. Lecroy PC application easy scope Version 3.01.03.01.09https://teledynelecroy.com/support/softwaredownload/easyscope.aspxworks perfectly good for me

author: mizohalen
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 06:03:49 pm
content: Hello I have done the same mistake of flashing the 7 inch firmware for my ATTEN ADS 1062C ...now it is unusuable.an you give me please acces to these firmware files? Thanks !

author: mizohalen
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 06:04:28 pm
content: Quote from: ManMan on August 07, 2017, 01:00:15 pmHello I have done the same mistake of flashing the 7 inch firmware for my ATTEN ADS 1062C ...now it is unusuable.an you give me please acces to these firmware files? Thanks !
ATTEN ADS1202 cl+ need Filmware - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: electrovozzz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 16, 2020, 09:59:44 pm
content: Hi everyone!I need an original filmware for ATTEN ADS1202cl+Can anybody help me?Thanks.

author: bithead9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2021, 09:47:00 pm
content: I have these two files if you need, let me know:ATTEN:ADS1202CML.zipSiglent:SDS1202CNL_V100R002B06D02P15R2.ADS
Atten PP3005S - ATMEGA8A firmware - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: maciej_333
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2022, 04:34:20 pm
content: Today I was fixing PP3005S power supply. There was same poor soldering points on LED display. So what's went wrong with such simple job? My mistake was with connectors. Unfortunately I connected it wrong. Some 74HC595 registers blow up so I tested everything and except that ATMGA8A is dead. I was too tiered and it was my mistake...Due to that I'm looking for firmware for that ATMEGA8A. There was some topics about modifications this power supply so maybe flash wasn't protected and someone has firmware?
ATX motherboards: early power-on circuitry? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2020, 11:19:12 am
content: I have a cute little passive atom x86 board out of a piece of proprietary rack equipment. I want to use it as a small computer but it won't turn on.No useful make or model markings. I suspect part of the proprietary wiring harness is needed to turn it on, but I don't have any of that.The LPC chip gets quite warm (Nuvoton NCT6776F) and one 5V rail + some 3.3 appears (the unit only takes a single 12V input). None of the main power supplies (eg for the CPU) turn on. No sounds, squeals, lights or jolts as I short any of the pins labelled as FRONT_PANEL (looks like the same 9-pins of 2.54 that you get on desktop boards).Q1:How is early-turn on handled on ATX motherboards? Is the power switch header wired directly to a power supervision chip, does the LPC handle it, etc?Q2:Any public ATX motherboard schematics or info that I can learn from?

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2020, 11:49:55 am
content: Buzzed out what I thought was the front panel sw pin & found it went to pin PSIN# on the LPC chip. Hooray, I always start getting somewhere just I as I need to get to bed for work tomorrowAny and all advice appreciated.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2020, 03:51:44 pm
content: post photos of your atom board, any brand or markings ?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2020, 07:07:23 am
content: Identify the ground pins in the 9-pin header.Apply power and determine which pin(s) have a standby supply, eg 5VSB or 3.3VSB.Determine if any of the standby supply pins are actually pulled up to a standby supply via a resistor. This will probably be the Power_on pin.Short this pin to ground, either momentarily, or by holding it for a few seconds as you would a normal desktop PC.

author: magic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2020, 09:10:22 am
content: I once had a bad PSU which didn't assert the POWER_GOOD signal and the board just sat quiet and kept waiting for it.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2020, 11:54:32 am
content: Thanks for the tips.It turns out the LPC is very well documented in a public datasheet, complete with logic gates/requirements for boot signals. Going to hunt these signals out one by one.
ATX PSU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2024, 07:07:01 pm
content: Got a CoolerMaster 600W ATX2 wired PSU. Was fine yesterday, PC won't power up today.I think the 5V standby is OK (the motherboard start and reset buttons light up), although I am seeing 2.5V on PON. Pulling it down does nothing. However, putting an ATX PSU tester on it (which doesn't apply much, if any, load) sees the PSU come alive and all the voltages read correctly. Seems to be a decent load (like a motherboard) that stops it from starting.Is there a typical fault that would cause these symptoms?(To head off the obvious, I verified the motherboard will power up with a weedy ATX1 PSU.)

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2024, 05:30:45 pm
content: Bulky capacitor maybe.Usually that is not enough though, for the power supply, but maybe motherboard has sensors.

author: The_Spectrum.A_idiot
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2024, 05:55:47 pm
content: Similar issue was caused on Synology boxes in the past , the solution was adding a resistor on the PSU start line.But inherently it was a CPU / MOBO issue.https://community.synology.com/enu/forum/1/post/136284And from the man himselfMost probably some bad cap or maybe some power transient damaged it at night ? or maybe a power surge ? lightning strike somewhere along the power lines ?Thanks

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2024, 06:22:33 pm
content: Sorry for lack of update - I found a cap with bulging top, replaced with similar (1.8F instead of 2.2F, but that's better than the 7uF the original was showing) but since I bought a replacement to get the PC running again quickly (it's my partners, and she needed to do work) I've not had a way to test it in anger.I took a photo of the cap in-situ and removed, but neither exist on my phone now! I am sure I wasn't dreaming it...Anyway, thanks for the ideas. I will update when I manage to test the repair. I will probably bulk replace all caps to be sure, but I wanted to determine if that particular one was the sole perpetrator of if it had a partner.

author: The_Spectrum.A_idiot
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2024, 06:55:20 pm
content: CoolKeep it up sirHopefully it will get fixed after all the caps are replaced
Audio amplifier  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: yalect
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2019, 12:33:14 am
content: Hi,I have this analog audio power amplifier that contains HXJ2038 ic but it gets heated when I connect it to the usb port and that increase, when I mesure one its resistor of negative feedback of 22k (as shown on attached picture) with multimetre within the board I found it about 12K!!! but other resistor right because two channel ampifiere icThere is solution - Idea or I have to replace that ic?Regards

author: yalect
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2019, 10:26:09 pm
content: Hello,any answer, please or Idea?Thank you

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2019, 12:53:39 am
content: Not uncommon for a resistor to measure differently when it's in circuit vs. when it's out, you could desolder it and check again and it would likely be fine. Its value should match the color code on it... is that schematic for the device being worked on, or is it from the datasheet? While a production schematic may be similar to datasheet values, it would not be surprising for it to be intentionally different.In any case, aside from the chip heating up, what is the problem? Some degree of heat on an amplifier is normal, does it still otherwise function properly?

author: yalect
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2019, 10:40:11 pm
content: thank you for your replysorry, but that heat is abnormal may that ic is damagedabout the resistor is just proposition I will desolder it
Audio Amplifier left speaker banana plug connector cutting out or shorting - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ashtastic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 12:36:49 am
content: Hi Everyone,I have a NAD C320BEE Stereo Amp, it's around 15 years old, sounds great and up until the past few weeks has been rock solid. What is happening is the left speaker output (positive terminal I think based on the wiggle test) will intermittently cut out, or sometime slowly fade until it's out. Sometimes, a wiggle of the left positive connector brings it up, other times it does not. Of course I have swapped speaker cables (banana plugs) and speakers and all that logical troubleshooting, same issue.I am fairly comfortable trying to troubleshoot along the circuit path, maybe, if someone had some idea of where to start, or what I should be looking for. I have access to a scope and meter and all that stuff. I do have the service manual for the amp with circuit diagrams and can share/post them if that's allowed(?)Thanks for looking and for any help!

author: GLouie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 06:32:19 am
content: Does this have a relay to control output to the speaker terminals? It's very common for audio amps to develop dirty relay contacts and cause this kind of problem.

author: ashtastic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 01:36:51 pm
content: yes it does, I'll check those out.. thanks!

author: ashtastic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 02:53:28 pm
content: interestingly, I've been letting it play with just the left channel, and the sound will definitely fade out and back in. As well, when it is out, I can get it come back by just shifting or lifting the amp. That seems to be more reliably way to bring the sound back than tapping on the speaker connections. So my initial troubleshooting maybe be suspect.The fading in and sounds more like a capacitor then relay doesn't it? I could take a video and link it here.

author: GLouie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 07:06:22 pm
content: I woudn't point to anything yet without more information. I'd open the unit (probably cover and bottom panel) and operate it carefully while poking things with a non-conductive stick until it fails again. You can also try inspecting every solder joint under good magnification, and redoing any suspect soldering just for good measure.

author: ashtastic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 04:49:08 pm
content: going to tentatively say it's fixed, cleaned the relay, and re-soldered some of the joints around that part of the path (not sure if they really needed it but oh well). Hasn't cut out or faded in a couple hours of playing.Thanks everyone for your help!
Audio Output Board For Model RX-6022V - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: daniel818a
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2022, 10:17:24 pm
content: hi im trying to repair a receiver from jvc ,after finding out that the power supply stop working i fixed itbut one of the wires i left lose and it touch ground and i burned more parts ....https://www.datasheetbank.com/D637-Q-Datasheet-PDF-Panasonicthat one off them but also all the resistoros that coming to it and someting else that idk what it isi cant fine a digaram or someting to help mehttps://www.ebay.com/itm/173951783970that is the only thing that i foundTY for help !https://ibb.co/jwxPZZ2https://ibb.co/sq0cRLfhttps://ibb.co/zsSCSns
audio + pcb that work after touching - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2023, 03:29:07 am
content: So I had this amplifier that I am gonna remake on a PCB and it had this problem where the sine wave was being distorted and some crossover distortion.Not really sure what was up, but if I fiddle my fingers around it (I cleaned it good with flux cleaner) and touch a instrumentation amp, it often goes into a low distortion stable output state. If I change frequency or voltage levels by alot it will go back to doing bad things. But I tested it, it ran at ~200mA for at least 40 minutes before the waveform went back to having flat areas and such.and its not an oscillator, its a power ampIn general has anyone else noticed that some analog circuits can be fixed by touching them? I don't mean holding your finger on it, I just mean gently feeling around and having it work after you remove your hand.I am pretty sure I am pushing strip board to the limit.. but I only expect this behavior with state devices, not analog circuits.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2023, 03:50:53 am
content: If it's not due to it oscillating- I've seen when "something" high impedance is floating and the finger is enough leakage current to bring it back.Or it can involve an electrolytic capacitor that is unhappy about the working conditions, it might be seeing reverse-voltage that gets fixed for a while with the poke changing DC offset.Otherwise, it could be just bad connections.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2023, 03:57:07 am
content: hmm its soldered and on a low z loadI was thinking leakage maybe too because it could cause it to clip. on some feedback looppossibly bad parts too I guess this was salvaged from modified equipment I managed to destroy

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2023, 04:32:19 am
content: hmm ok well rigamarol 1052 mislead me, I think what is happening is its clipping weirdly (not like a flat) because I measured quite a high voltage on the coupling capacitor output. I guess I must have been bleeding charge from that cap into a power railon dc coupling mode it goes ape shit when you change the amplitude of the wave form.the dc level is completely different then what I thought it would be. like order of magnitude. i wonder what will happen if I reduce the feedback network impedance by similar. i think maybe the output amp unhappy with drain

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2023, 06:55:15 am
content: 12 gun salute for the shady ebay apex chip that died due to a errant probe (maybe), but this may be a blessing that bring in new infrastructure like heatsinks, sockets and current parts mounted to a etched board.maybe I will buy a set of foil or mica compensation caps too so I am not sticking Z5U in there lol
Sound Technology 1400A (1700A/B 1710A) Question about TO-5 heat sink - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Bargainhunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2020, 12:25:56 am
content: I opened up my 1400A audio generator and a heat sink fell out. It is listed as part #3600-0000 heat sink round finned TO5. I'm not sure which transistor it came off of. This 1400a is included in the models 1700A/B and 1710A. If anyone can tell me where it belongs, I would greatly appreciate it. I guess I could turn it on and see which transistor gets the hottest but I'd rather make sure. The schematic diagrams do not show any transistors with a heat sink. Photo of a similar heat sink is attached. I don't have any other TO5 heat sinks or I would put one on each.Thank you,Chuck.

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2020, 04:53:41 am
content: Show us a schematic diagram. But my guess is that it's a power supply regulator.

author: Bargainhunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2020, 11:06:43 am
content: I have updated my original post with photos of the heat sink and schematic of the power supply and audio generator board.The power supply regulators have large heat sinks. The TO5 heat sink came off the audio generator board. It may be off the output transistor?Thank you,Chuck

author: picburner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2020, 12:01:32 pm
content: According to the schematic you posted the heatsink should be mounted on U3 (uA741), see the pic below:

author: jh15
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2020, 01:26:07 pm
content: Oh good! I couldn't find my 1700a manual right off and would have opened my unit for you.Bought my distortion analyzer/oscillator new in the 70's. Even now looping the generator through the DA, no change in distortion/noise readings from the beginning. Rated for .001% distortion measurement.My ST 1000A FM stereo generator still perfectly fine.I had been working with HP gear in industry, and tossed my primitive Heathkit gear (sold the tube stereo gen to a friend) when I learned a couple people defected from HP to form this company during the hi-fi boom.Very precision stuff, manual says not to get fingerprints on the boards, or use any contact cleaner. Amazingly, all buttons still clean.And no I haven't replaced all the capacitors as is the habit these days.

author: Bargainhunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2020, 02:38:31 pm
content: Thank you very much picburner for your help. And thank you jh15 for offering to open up your unit.I really appreciate all the help offered to me.Chuck
AudioControl 2XS schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: frodo25
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 06, 2023, 02:11:54 am
content: Hey all, I am troubleshooting an AudioControl 2XS active crossover and am looking for a schematic diagram.Thanksfrodo25

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2023, 01:03:37 am
content: I highly doubt you will find one.I contacted Audio Control about 4 years ago trying to find diagrams so I could repair a SA-3050A RTA I had picked up, they would not release the diagrams for it (they were helpful in other ways though), I ended up reverse engineering the relevant parts myself (along with some photos provided by others of different versions and their reverse engineering also), I did a couple of videos about it, but that is obviously not relevent to your unit.
Audioengine B2 repair. Left channel low volume and scratching noise - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Fireflaker
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 29, 2020, 11:11:06 pm
content: I'm working on repairing a Bluetooth amplifier board and am reaching out for help. One of the two audio channels is almost inaudible and has inconstant scratch noise independent of volume nob. Line input is affected the same way. What could be wrong?

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2020, 05:36:02 am
content: diagram?