hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
kick starter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2014, 02:11:53 pm
content: can you start a kick starter for a prototype then if the prototype works start a bigger kick starter

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2014, 02:17:14 pm
content: Sounds like a question to ask of Kickstarter themselves, they're are the ones who set the rules.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2014, 04:16:41 pm
content: Quote from: abdullahseba on May 18, 2014, 02:11:53 pmWhat are you going to give to the backers of the prototype?
kikad - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2023, 05:26:55 am
content: is there any versions of kikad for win7 x64 all i see is win8 min.

author: Nominal Animal
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2023, 06:23:01 am
content: Assuming you mean KiCad, see theKiCad 7.0.6 on Windows 7thread in the PCB/EDA/CAD > KiCad sub-forum here.I don't use Windows myself, I use Linux Mint and KiCad 7.0.9 currently, so I can't help with any Windows-specific details; and any KiCad-specific questions are better asked in the relevant sub-forum (PCB/EDA/CAD > KiCad).

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2023, 06:32:37 am
content: Quote from: p.larner on December 25, 2023, 05:26:55 amNot sure which version of Kicad6 works for windows 7. But you can try here:https://downloads.kicad.org/kicad/windows/explore/stableAt least I believe Kicad6 works on windows 7. My W7 machine has kicad-5.1.2_2-x86_64.exe. I haven't bothered to update it since I got the new computer.
kikad+win 7 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2024, 07:47:44 pm
content: can anyone tell me what version of kikad works with win 7?

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2024, 09:46:30 pm
content: If you type the same exact question into google, you will get an answer on the first page of results.KiCad v5 is the latest officially supported on W7. But if you do that google thing, you will find many discussions on how to run newer versions with some limitations.

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2024, 09:54:59 pm
content: Quote from: p.larner on February 25, 2024, 07:47:44 pmI got version (5.1.2)-2 on my win7 laptop and as far as I know that was the latest version to fully work on that OS. I couldn't update it further until I got a new laptop with Win10
kill switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: darinsquared
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2018, 05:54:47 pm
content: I have a gasoline engine pump with a 12V electric kill switch. I want to integrate a float with a proximity sensor that will shut off the engine when the tank is full. Would this attached circuit work? Would I be better off having the proximity sensor its own battery operated system? Do I need t add a diode to prevent flyback when the engine shuts off?Just a note I put the zener diode in line as a switch so the current does not flow until the sensor reaches peak voltage.Sort of on topic, what is a good circuit "checking" app for Android?

author: darinsquared
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2018, 06:05:02 pm
content: my apologies for some reason Paint will not let me save the image larger.

author: Wimberleytech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2018, 06:39:15 pm
content: Quote from: darinsquared on February 19, 2018, 06:05:02 pmI dont have an answer but I fixed your figure.

author: darinsquared
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2018, 06:41:31 pm
content: thanks

author: Delta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2018, 09:12:12 pm
content: Use a relay. Assuming this is a magneto ignition engine, you get a surprising amount of current when you shunt the kill wire to ground.A relay by it's very nature will snap fully closed when sufficient current flows through its coil, avoiding the grey area of your transistors linear region.

author: darinsquared
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2018, 11:06:57 pm
content: so would this work? instead of using power from the engine for the proximity sensor I would just use a battery for the whole proximity switch/transistor circuit to control the kill switch circuit via relay.How do I enlarge my image?

author: Wimberleytech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2018, 11:13:33 pm
content: QuoteIf you are in windows7, while the image is enlarged on your screen, use the snippit tool (or Greenshot) and capture that to a file.If you are using Paint, open the file dialog box, go down to Properties, change the width and height according to the size of the image you have drawn.
kindle fire - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ronmar53
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 09, 2012, 05:27:30 pm
content: i have a kindle fire and the darn thing will not charge i have replaced the usb charging cord with a new one but still doesn't charge a matter of fact i get nothing no screen no power ,i am p.c tech but still haven't a clue about could be wrong with thing ,does anybody got any ideas in how to resolve this please thanksvyymmp

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2012, 06:24:26 pm
content: Can you use the sync cable to power it from a computer? Perhaps the wall adapter is bad? If it's not the wall adapter then what's your warranty? If it's out of warranty then open it up and see if you can spot any damage? Test the battery, is there charge in the thing?

author: ronmar53
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 09, 2012, 06:51:49 pm
content: i used the sync cable to the p.c and still didn't work the battery is OK according to the fluke reading ,i don't know what else to look for on the p.c board that could could cause this problem and it is off warranty. I have contacted amazon about this and the information that they give is to redirect me to a blog site of people having similar problems but no solutions. i would hate to trash this but to send it off for a third party repair that would exceed the cost of K.F.so i don't know if i am left with a trash can item or not.i have Google this problem but there,s not much information that i can go by

author: aluck
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2012, 07:18:38 pm
content: I would try to disconnect the battery and plug in usb. Sometimes it's just a failing battery.

author: ronmar53
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 10, 2012, 02:37:55 pm
content: thank you i will give a try

author: aluck
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2012, 06:57:18 pm
content: Please do let us know of the result

author: ronmar53
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 14, 2012, 01:27:47 pm
content: FOUND THE PROBLEM IT WAS WITH THE MICRO USB PORT after researching this problem and going a few rounds with amazon i finally got a hold of tech and he informed me being a little reluctant to divulge the information there was a problem with the micro usb ports coming disconnected from the main boards. the reason being is the use of plugging it in and out by the charging cable evidently the manufacturer didn't consider this when they developed this board . Now in order to correct this problem you have to reconnect the USB port to the main board by soldering it ,difficult level from a scale 1-10 i give a 8 if your not good at soldering i go with a 10 .reason very tiny and the main board needs to be taken out and you need to work with a strong magnified lens there is 6 prongs to be soldered back on the board it took me two attempts with success thank god. hope this will help others if there having problems with .
Kindle went for a swim.. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: texas deere and horse
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 01:49:25 am
content: Hello everyone, My Daughter dropped our Kindle fire in our pool, is there any hope of saving it? Thanks

author: amspire
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 04:23:40 am
content: Possibly, but the first step is to disconnect the battery as soon as possible. The battery can initiate electrolysis that can damage metal connections.You need to follow instructions like this:Water itself does not damage electronics (unless it is high voltage). It is the stuff dissolved in impure water that damages. So after opening and removing the battery, I would very gently rinse the electonics in the Kindle with some distilled water. Then with paper towels, dry up as much water as possible, and then you have to let the Kindle really dry out. This might mean a few days. When it is completely dry, it is time to put the battery back and see if it will work.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 04:42:47 am
content: To really help dry it out (after cleaning with distilled water) put the kindle into a bowl of uncooked dry rice, making sure there's 10+mm of rice all around it, and leave it somewhere warm for a few days.Rice absorbs moisture really well so after a few days the rice will have pulled most of the moisture out of the device.NoteDo not eat the rice afterwards, it will probably have absorbed other chemicals as well as the water.

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 04:51:36 am
content: I always wash in distillated water and next in isopropilic alcoolRepaired 10+ devices this way

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 04:54:07 am
content: Washing in iso is good if you can get it.But buying 1+ liters of iso can lead to questions being asked depending on what country you're in.

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 11:26:39 am
content: Aaahh, i usually buy substances thar can be used for cyanide and bombs!

author: texas deere and horse
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 02:27:29 pm
content: Thanks All, I pulled the battery last night after I posted this thread. I will rinse out with alcohol today. I had it sitting in uncooked rice for a day. I hope I can save it.

author: texas deere and horse
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 19, 2013, 03:51:03 pm
content: Thanks to everyone who gave advice to this thread.I put the Kindle back together this morning and it powered up on the power adapter, but shuts off on the battery. I will have to order a new battery for it, but it LIVES !!
Kits for beginner kids - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jdave
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 11, 2015, 01:12:37 pm
content: Hi everyone. I've been tinkering with stuff professionally and casually all my life(I'm 59) and I'm happy to see my 13 year old grandson showing an interest in electronics and mechanics as well. I'm looking for some advice on good beginner kits for a kid that age. I don't live close enough to help him out with things like soldering or advanced techniques so I'm looking right now for very basic kits based either on breadboard or snap together type construction. Right now I'm leaning towards Arduino or perhaps Lego. He's had standard Lego kits and enjoyed them so that would be an extension of what he already is familiar with. But they can make anything look wonderful online, I'd like to hear from folks who have had actual experience with products because reality is always different from the advertising.Also, my ten year old granddaughter has been determined since she was six that she's going to be an architect. I realize it's a bit off topic but if anyone knows of any kits or software that would be good for her I'd be glad to hear about it.Many thanks, and keep on tinkering.

author: LabSpokane
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2015, 01:48:44 pm
content: 13 is plenty old enought to start with the Arduino. Add in a breadboard shield for tinkering.

author: grantbob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 11, 2015, 02:12:19 pm
content: If he can drive the software to upload programs to the Arduino something like the SparkFun Inventors Kit or Mini Inventors Kit might be a good idea. It comes with a breadboard, sensor, buttons, a servo, wires etc. It would be something he could build on (harder to do that with the snap together kits).If you want to participate, it would also be cool if you got the same kit and you could go through the projects together and compare notes on Skype, Hangouts etc.-grantbob

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 11, 2015, 04:58:16 pm
content: I'd be inclined to start with the basics. I don't know what his current knowledge is but he should be taught what basic components are and how to use them in the basics of using transistors as switches and the basic ICs the 555 timer. Then you can worry about the Arduino. Unless of course by electronics you mean programming. For heaven's sake don't make the mistake of letting him believe that electronics is all about programming it will only kick him hard in the backside later in life. My employer abandoned their last electronics subcontractor because while they could write software they were dangerously and life threateningly clueless about the basic operation of some electronic components and basic building blocks of electronics.
Kitting up with SMD components - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: CM800
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2017, 10:03:24 pm
content: Hello.Looking to start having some SMD components stored... how do these do? Think they will be OK for IC's (Static?) I may want to keep BGAs / QFPs etc.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311435897412?var=610491867380gonna buy these too:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262842506988http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311728997241http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391618772011Would anyone protest such a decision?

author: JPortici
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2017, 10:06:37 pm
content: For passives/diodes/trannies on a piece of reel i'm keeping everything in a file holder... there are specific sheets for components but i'm a cheapstake and used one for ye olde photo film.With one file holder i can go with more than 200 rowsI've also put ICs in there, in their (antiststic?) Reel piece

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2017, 03:23:45 am
content: You'd be fine with the storage boxes you linked for passives, though it can be a PITA trying to fish a part out and not dump the rest all over the bench. As per ESD, they actually make the small ones that are ESD safe (here).Cut tape in a binder or full reels are easier to deal with IMHO, as you can peel back the top as you need parts. Which ends the contents getting spilled all over the place.Can't do this with everything, but quite bit of stuff can be stored this way.

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 06:00:07 am
content: I use these:http://www.ebay.com/itm/SK128-SMD-resistor-capacitor-storage-box-Organizer-0603-0402-USA-Seller/380373207781Which reminds me I need to order a couple more. I have a pile of 10 or so already. (And a few other kinds, but have found these superior.)

author: mikeys
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 07:42:06 am
content: Found a much cheaper ebay listing for the ESD ones herehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20pcs-Components-Part-Laboratory-Storage-Electronic-SMT-SMD-Box-SMT-Anti-Static-/291124770534?var=&hash=item43c86376e6:m:mHn6MYOdy2EWeYGzxixgi1A*edit* anyone with one of those surface testers fancy checking if these are actually antistat or not?

author: fki82
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 08:18:58 pm
content: I like this ones for resistors and capacitors:http://www.ebay.de/itm/SMT-resistor-capacitor-storage-box-Organizer-1206-0805-0603-0402-aidetek-r/380318640457?rt=nc&_soffid=200&_soffType=SaleAndClearence&_trksid=p5731.m3795

author: fki82
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 08:26:46 pm
content: Anti Static only means the don't build up a static load themselve, they don't shield the content from outside ones.If you want so store sensitive parts, you should get ESD shielded ones.Dave also made a video about this:
kKMOON 4102s  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: peterkos2
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2020, 11:10:16 pm
content: Good day.I would like to ask you for advice about the Kkmoon 4102S oscilloscope (Hantek 4102C).I am a beginner.The voltage shift does not work on channel 1 horizontally below the X axis and on channel 2 above the X axis. I don't know what it is, I'm just starting to work with the oscilloscope.On the DSO4000C V1.02 board, I measured the voltage at the control points, everything fits, just 2.5V is missing.I bought the oscilloscope broken, the error was on the source and I fixed it - the oscilloscope cycled on and off.One ceramic capacitor was defective.Thank you for advice

author: peterkos2
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2020, 02:51:17 pm
content: Good day. Can you please advise me what part it is? I can't find her. It is faulty, so 2.5V is missing. well thank you

author: peterkos2
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2020, 03:19:35 pm
content: :Thank you for your response. Can you advise me where to look for it on the Internet or in a catalog in the future? well thank you

author: peterkos2
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2021, 03:18:13 pm
content: Hi.So I replaced the CMOS REF 30/40 which provided a reference voltage of 2.5V.Now everything works
klein MM700 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: willbanks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2017, 04:09:30 am
content: grown out of my harbor freight meter. want to upgrade to an acceptable meter with autoranging and RMS. i have been looking at the MM700 and have found lots of good deals on it. anyone have better alternatives I should consider before buying?

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2017, 09:35:37 am
content: HiSee this thread :https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/looking-for-a-good-digital-multimeter/

author: 6PTsocket
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2018, 11:12:23 pm
content: So you neasure AC with distorted waveforms, motor speed control, VFD? On straight sine wave AC a non RMS meter will read exactly the same thing. It actually reads average and is compensated to read RMS. But that only works for sine waves.Quote from: willbanks on June 29, 2017, 04:09:30 amSent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
KM45C512B DRAM protocol - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 07:19:29 am
content: I have a couple of KM45C512's and I thought it would be cool to try to interface them to my Z80 project.(I know I cannot connect them directly - part of this exercise is to make a Z80 compatible memory controller from a CPLD that allows me to use (S)DRAM type chips)I have founda datasheet (7 pages)that sorta outlines the chip's capabilities, but I have no idea how to talk to it.Is there a standard protocol for reading and writing I should use or...?I am a noob when it comes to DRAM chips - I know RAS and CAS but thats about it...

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 11:47:46 am
content: It's generic FPM DRAM. The timings are specified in the datasheet, but for actual diagrams you could look for other datasheets or just search for "FPM DRAM timing diagram" and you'll find plenty of information.This part is larger than a Z80's address space, otherwise you would be able to connect directly since the Z80 has a built-in refresh counter.

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2019, 12:21:39 pm
content: Would this be good starting point?https://www.latticesemi.com/-/media/LatticeSemi/Documents/ReferenceDesigns/EI/FastPageModeSDRAMController-Documentation.ashx?document_id=6166Because I don't know what to look for or how its called, its hard to know if the information is good/what I need...

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2019, 12:35:05 am
content: Start here...https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dynamic_random-access_memory#Asynchronous_DRAMThis is also good:http://archive.arstechnica.com/paedia/r/ram_guide/ram_guide.part1-4.html
Knowing when a capacitor finshed discharging - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jorx
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 19, 2017, 09:32:20 am
content: Hi!I'm working on a digital project that have a sinking frequenzy using a voltage controlled oscillator (made of a 555). But I need a signal from the VCO when its done oscillating. So how can I get a signal from the capacitor that is producing the sinking voltage when it's done discharging?I suppose 99% of the users can answer this

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2017, 10:02:33 am
content: If the capacitor is connected to a resistor (not a constant current sink) then it never finishes discharging. The voltage dies away exponentially, never falling to zero.In reality, we consider the capacitor to be discharged, when the voltage falls below a certain level or after a number of RC time constants.

author: jorx
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 19, 2017, 10:54:48 am
content: Thanks for the reply.Let me put it like this. How can I make a circuit that gives a high bit when the voltage falls under a certain level (almost zero) without having an impact on the discharge?

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2017, 11:00:00 am
content: Quote from: jorx on February 19, 2017, 10:54:48 amYes. You need a comparator such as the LM393 or LM311.
Korad KA3005D voltage selector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: YurkshireLad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 09:06:13 pm
content: This is a silly question, but is the PSU set for North American 110V if "110V" is visible? Or if the switch is moved to the side that is labelled "110V"?

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 09:15:04 pm
content: Visible voltage label shows the active setting. So for NA you should see "110 V".

author: YurkshireLad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 09:21:27 pm
content: Thanks. That was my assumption, but sometimes the obvious is never obvious! It arrived set to 220V.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 09:31:26 pm
content: My KORAD KA3005D doesn't have selector at all. It is 220V only

author: Manul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 10:59:34 pm
content: When the mains input is transformer, you can measure primary winding resistance. On 110V it will be lower, on 220V - higher. That is a useful sanity check.
Korad KA3005P - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2020, 01:01:30 am
content: Just posting this here in case any new enthusiasts are looking for a recommendation on a power supply.Below are a couple photos, one showing a Korad KA3005P set for 1.02 volts and 11 milliamps connected to a DC load drawing 10 milliamps. It's not much of a load but fwiw the voltage is pretty accurate (see Fluke 179) and reasonably stable (see Keysight 34465A 10 minute trend chart, presumably accurate to 3 digits beyond 1.02V). The Korad was one of the first pieces of test equipment I purchased about 7 years go and it continues to be one of my favorites, and it pretty much has to be the #1 value leader on my bench in terms of performance/price.Edit: added third photo with 2 changes: 1) trend chart now up to 38 minutes, slightly rescaled, and 2) I adjusted the electro-mechanical flip card time clock which I noticed in the first photo had drifted off time when compared to the Radio Shack LCD clock; once you get TEA syndrome it can lead to volt nuts, time nuts and more, and it can become hard to shake it.

author: connectTek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2020, 01:57:16 am
content: I have 2 x KA6005P.Love them, very accurate .An absolute bargain.Why would you need anything else?Why would you pay more?

author: Rasterist
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2020, 06:07:18 am
content: Dave has done three videos on the KA3005P: #314, #315, and #404.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2020, 08:09:07 am
content: I think 404 was published in December 2012. The product had some hiccups in the early days (maybe into 2013 or so). but it has gone through some revisions since then. Mine is going on 7 years, knock on wood.
Korad Rectifier  KD3005D Help please  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kayjay
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 09, 2016, 02:01:41 pm
content: I am a beginner so please suffer my question with patience. I bought this rectifier for electroforming. I am able to adjust the current and voltage but am not able to lock them in at the numbers I want. Sometimes it locks itself and then I cannot adjust. The manual was useless and I have searched and asked questions on electroforming forums without results. Is this machine defective or what am I missing? Thanks in advance.

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2016, 02:07:54 pm
content: You cannot simultaneously "lock in" both current and voltage. Choose one. Your load will determine the other.

author: Kalvin
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2016, 02:22:53 pm
content: Actually you will "lock-in" the maximum current and the maximum voltage. Depending on the current limit mode, it can be a fold-back type, which makes your task a bit harder.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2016, 07:32:44 pm
content: Because of Ohm's law, you cannot "force" both a specific voltage (V) and a specific current (I).I= V/RWhatever load you attach to the power supply will be the R. You can set a maximum for both V and I, and depending on the load (R) and the settings, one or the other maximum will be reached. The other will be something less than the maximum setting but exactly what it will be depends on R.

author: jeroen79
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2016, 12:28:59 am
content: The KD3005D is not just a 'rectifier' but a regulated powersupply with constant current (CC) and constant voltage mode (CV).As explained, the powersupply will let electricity flow until one of the settings is reached.My guess is that for electroforming you need a constant current. (dependant on the surface to be coated and the time you want to do it in)So set the CC to the desired current and then crank up the CV beyond the point where it switches to CC mode.
Kosmos electronics X1000-x4000 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: hman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 07, 2019, 06:32:19 pm
content: Dear Team,In the 80's i use to have the full serie of Kosmos electronics X1000-x4000I kept all the components but impossible to find out the manual.Maybe some of you have the good idea to scan it and save it in pdf.Best regardsPascal

author: numloxx
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2021, 12:11:18 pm
content: Try thishttps://1drv.ms/u/s!Aq2GmVaGjn6qgpRqlwhHqSY8_Lperg?e=xKr1ZrI actually bought the 1000-4000 set a few years ago from Germany.I used to own the 1000 set only.
KP35FM2-035 Stepper Motor Data Sheet - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Karsten
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 12, 2011, 02:00:04 am
content: Hi everyone, this is my first post. I am a newbie.I have been searching the web for the data sheet for the stepper motor I bought.Here are the details.....Type: KP35FM2-035 1.8 degree stepper motor, 4 wires (red, blue, yellow and white), Red and Blue seemed to be to one coil and the Yellow and White to the other when doing continuity testing. The motor was made by Japan Servo Co. LTD.If anyone has a Data Sheet could they please forward a copy, it would be greatly appreciated.I have been searching the web for 2 weeks now with zero luck.Email me please if you can help me out.I'm trying to learn how to control the motor with Assembly Language but I first need to know how to get this puppy moving.Thanking you in advance.Karsten

author: m.castrillon19
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 27, 2016, 02:18:00 pm
content: Hi Kirsten, I was wondering if you had luck finding the data sheet for the KP35FM2-035 stepper motor? Also wondering if you know the pairing coil colours for this stepper motor, I have the same motor and just want to confirm. Any help is appreciated. Thanks WalterSent from my XT1034 using Tapatalk

author: MK14
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2016, 06:40:53 pm
content: Have a look at the original date of this thread, and the post count of the OP.
Kraus & Naimer changeover switch ID - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: negative_feedback
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2025, 08:13:10 pm
content: Good day, can someone from Germany/Austria help me identify these switches. I can't figure out the difference between units made Germany vs Austria and also what's with the wide plastic cover. They should be the same model from new series: KA40B.I need new 40A/63A 4 pole, 1-0-2 switch and apparently this one has "non-lagging" Neutral disconnected or something (compared to Hager HIM404/406).
krc86b bluetooth - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Mule
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2017, 07:05:16 pm
content: Hello,I am making a Bluetooth portable speaker with the krc-86b Bluetooth module and the PAM8610 amp. The amp works fine when I don't use the Bluetooth board, and instead just use an aux cable.But when I try with the bluetooth board the amp draws 0.5A though the AGND pin on the krc-86b, its really peculiar and means the krc-86b board turns off as I guessing a safety feature stops it.Not sure what I am doing wrong, the amp has a 3 pole 3.5mm jack input, and I have bought a 3.5mm screw terminal (https://www.cablematic.co.uk/ref/AY97?gclid=CMyHpI...which has L, R and GND on it.krc-86b to amp:OutL to LOutR to RAGND to GNDIf anyone can help, would be much appreciated.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 03:49:07 am
content: Can you draw a schematic of how it's all wired up? (Both audio and power.)FWIW, the amplifier chips' peak current draw can be many amps (just in incredibly short bursts). Beefy caps right at the amp's power input prevents this from becoming an issue.I'm wondering if your power ground is somehow bad, such that the audio ground is being pressed into service.
KS3819 replacement? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: DragonBalai
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 23, 2013, 12:49:57 am
content: Hello EEVBlog guys,I have a broken KS3819 transistor on EVGA X58 SLI motherboard. And I want to replace it, but I cannot find exact same SMD. I searched it from google but theres no KS3819 thing. Page suggestions tell me it's "TO-252-3L CJ7809 Three-terminal positive voltage regulator".I'm very new to electronics, so I'm not sure. Should I look for TO-252-3L transistor from my local elecronics shop?? And replace KS3819 thing with TO-252-3L?Thank you.(I don't know where to put this question, if I posted wrong place please move it to right section. Also forgive my bad English, and try to understand what I mean. Thanx again)

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 23, 2013, 01:13:45 am
content: That would be a 7809 voltage regulator in a 3-legged TO-252 surface mount packagee.g.At a pinch, you could replace it with an off-the-shelf generic 7809 in a leaded package.Edit: Umm, strike that - it was based on your statement "Page suggestions tell me it's "TO-252-3L CJ7809 Three-terminal positive voltage regulator"."Looking at the image now, it actually reads K3918, not KS3819. I suspect it's actually a fairly standard 2SK3918 switching mosfet (again, in a 3-leg TO-252 package).

author: DragonBalai
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 23, 2013, 01:33:40 am
content: Thank you, Tac Eht Xilef for answering.Actual chip is K3918, but google show up KS3819, and suggests TO-252 things. I'm confused. Could you please tell me what exactly should written on the chip, I can't find K3819, KS3819 from my local electronics shop. I want to know similar thing which I can replace with.Thank you very much, I'm sorry my English is bad, it's self taught.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 23, 2013, 01:39:57 am
content: The chip in your photo reads "K3918", which suggests it's a 2SK3918 power mosfet (not the regulator I originally wrote).I've got to run out the door now, but if you search for 2SK3918 at the usual suppliers (Mouser, Element14, etc) you should find a replacement in the same TO-252 case - it's a fairly common part.
KSGER Problem with tip temp? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: GJN
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 28, 2021, 12:35:10 am
content: Hi all,Just received a KSGER T12 V3.1S soldering station. It turns OK and all the menus all seem to work fine. The issue I might have is in regard to tip temperature. I have seen some reviews advsing that new tips take a while to settle down and you often get an ERROR message. However, if I set a temp above 400C then it appears to continuously error. Could this be a problem with the tip, handle or station?Also I am trying to measure the tip temp with a AN8002 thermocouple probe and that is proving difficult. I have checked the thermocouple as best I can to make sure it is within the ballpark. It measured the room temp, boiling water to within a degree and my oven to within 30degrees but that is possibly more the oven controls accuracy! When I try and measure the tip temp it is really difficult, often 100degree below the indicated temp but I am not sure I am getting a good thermal connection? I have tried putting plenty of solder on the tip.So overall, I am not 100% sure if the tip temps indicated are accurate? What else can I try to identify or eliminate any problems? I have five tips and they all display similar indications although I am yet to systematically go through each...

author: RayRay
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2021, 10:56:07 pm
content: I'd say odds are that you either didn't put the tip all the way in (in terms of depth) or that it's not making proper contact (try rotating it a little). For the record though, you should generally never go above 370C at the worst case scenario, as that could cause some damage to the board and/or component. Also, the temp probe that came with your meter is not intended to handle such high temps (I wouldn't trust it with more than 250C). For more accurate measurements, get the UT-T12 probe & the UT320D thermometer. Alternatively, you could get an FG-100 replica (which is directly intended for this purpose), this would be slightly less accurate than the first method, but still perfectly accceptable.

author: wasyoungonce
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2021, 11:25:22 pm
content: Purchase an FG-100 done. Well worth it.https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/233914897728?hash=item36766a1540:g:n-kAAOSwqAFgPJra&frcectupt=true

author: GJN
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 29, 2021, 11:29:39 am
content: OK thanks guys. I will pick up one of those FG-100s and see how it goes from there. Hopefully all is well.
KSGER Soldering Station - Is this normal?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: druantia
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2025, 08:46:55 am
content: Hi,I just bought a KSGER Soldering station (not the T12, but the one with C245 és C210 handle)Whenever I touch the brass wool tip cleaner, the station goes to sleep mode (several times I got a self recovery - output protection message too)Is this normal? Should I send it back?

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2025, 09:07:58 am
content: Maybe it's only supposed to go into sleep mode when the iron is in the shiny metal ring? Perhaps the metal sponge is touching this ring. It looks like it could have been designed for the wet sponges only.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2025, 05:13:25 pm
content: I think it's sort of normal / expected.The "Iron in holder" detection is done by mechanical contact between the soldering iron tip and metal parts of the holder. So I guess that a strand of the (probably) brass plated steel "sponge" is making an electrical contact with the rest of the holder.I also do not see much benefit of using both metal shavings and a wet sponge. Maybe the wet sponge is making the electrical contact.

author: ahsrabrifat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2025, 06:48:44 pm
content: Check if your station’s ground is properly connected to earth. Try to disable sleep mode in the settings. A short or bad connection inside the handle or station ay also create such problems.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2025, 10:59:43 pm
content: As Doctorandus_P explained there is likely a connection between the silver part of the holder and the brass part, so it thinks its sitting in the silver holder.You can either:- disable sleep- insulate the silver holder part from the rest of the stand- insulate the brass wool (maybe put a bunch of kapton tape on the walls around it)- move the brass wool to a small container (I do this, makes more space on the bench)
KSGER T12 plastic enclosure version grounding - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Nooobie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 22, 2021, 09:26:01 am
content: I am new to this forum, but I read quite some posts about the KSGER grounding problems.I have the plastic enclosure version of the KSGER T12, and I am concerned about grounding, I understand the the enclosure doesn't need to be grounded but I am worried about the metal connector and the iron itself, does it need to be grounded?how do I test if it's grounded? I have UNI-T 33C+ multimeter, can I test ground with it?Thanks a lot to anyone who replies.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2021, 03:06:26 pm
content: It is safer for yourself and the components you work on if your iron tip is grounded:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/does-you-soldering-iron-have-grounded-tip/Also, any exposed metal - especially something you could touch - should also be grounded.To test if an exposed piece of metal is grounded, check the continuity with it and the ground pin of the mains plug. On the 33C+ the continuity test is the same setting as the diode test (about the 8 o'clock position).

author: Nooobie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 22, 2021, 08:14:32 pm
content: Thank you so much for your replyI will test for ground with my multimeter,But all this time I am wondering how to ground it?I mean the tip may be grounded for ESD as I have seen in reviews (I will test it myself of course as soon as I can), but I have no metal housing to ground the iron connector and the control knob to.I thought about soldering a ground wire but I am not sure how good this solution is.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2021, 01:24:52 am
content: I found this thread on grounding a T12 tip:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/how-to-get-rid-of-fluctuating-voltage-on-soldering-tip-(t12-clone-station)/Seems like one of the pins on the handle connector might go to the tip.

author: Nooobie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 10:10:17 am
content: I finally was able to disassemble the T12 because I didn't find any screws and found no one the plastic case online taking it apart.I have tested and there is continuity between two prongs in the 5 pins iron connector, and the tip of the iron is also showing continuity with the ground prong,the metal part of the socket isn't grounded.I think I have made some mistake because I wasn't able to measure resistance as the reading changed every second drastically.

author: zhir
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2023, 09:32:40 pm
content: Quote from: Nooobie on October 16, 2021, 10:10:17 amHow did you take apart the plastic case? I would like to do it as well.Are the screws hidden behind the rubber feet?
KT0803L transmitter + ESP32 - take it apart please - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: braincat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2024, 02:09:29 am
content: Greetings all,This goes into beginners since that's who I am.I wanted to make a short range FM transmitter that is microprocessor controlled.I know that these things sell for $3-5 on aliexpress, but I wanted to make it myself. So... I have a two-sided PCB, etched with HCl + H2O2, it has a ground plane, a 3.3V plane, and a 5V plane. The 3.3V is converted from 5V using a linear regulator. The source of 5V is an old HP3611A with original capacitors. The FM transmitter chip is KT0803L, controlled via i2c from the ESP32 IC. The source audio comes from a headphone jack. I could not solder it on the board because I designed the board with a jack upside downI am attaching the schematic, the 3D view of the pcb from kicad, and the actual photos of the board.I know it's a hack job, but I am learning, and I'd appreciate suggestions about making this thing better next time. I can receive the audio with a VX-6R handheld. The audio has a low-frequency interference in it (you can listen to it in an attachment), which almost goes away if I use computer's USB as a power supply. The same noise is present if I drive the transmitter using a sine wave from the ESP (there is a pair of jumpers on the board that connect the corresponding pin to audio input). BTW the board is unfinished, I have not soldered a female pin connector on it (to connect an LCD), and didn't add a 12V to 3.3V DC converter.I wrote the c++ code to drive the ESP32 and cross-compiled it on linux using esp-idf development framework.Thanks All.

author: braincat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2024, 03:22:07 pm
content: That noise that I mentioned has fairly low frequency (I'd say about 10 mhz). I disable both bluetooth and wifi radios on the esp32, that didn't help.Edit: Turns out one of the pins on the transmitter IC that was supposed to be grounded was not connected. After grounding it, the noise went away. KT0803L is not great btw: if I program it to transmit on 100MHz, I can hear the signal at twice that frequency, too.

author: aliarifat794
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2024, 05:46:29 pm
content: Quote from: braincat on April 21, 2024, 03:22:07 pmIt's possible that the KT0803L is a clone.

author: stuarts
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 01, 2024, 07:49:59 am
content: What you are seeing is reception on the first harmonic of 100MHz. Normally you would transmit on the FM band on odd tenths of a MHz. So you would use 100.1MHz. The first harmonic of 100.1MHz is 200.2MHz. As you would normally tune to odd tenths, you would tune to 200.1MHz or 200.3MHz. This means that you are much less likely to hear the harmonic.Also consider that 200MHz is outside the broadcast FM band. I'm not sure who is entitled to use it, but you probably aren't.
KTK vs. KLK Fuse in Fluke 23 Multimeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: spirulerlocus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2015, 08:10:08 pm
content: I have a Fluke 23 multimeter with a blown fuse for the high current probe. The meter currently uses a type KLK fuse and I have a KTK fuse in my junk box with the same current rating. I looked at the datasheets and it appears that the time to blow for a given current is comperable. Is it ok to use a KTK fuse?KLK:http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electrical/datasheets/fuses/industrial-and-ul-fuses/littelfuse_fuse_klk_datasheet.pdfKTK:http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Electrical/Resources/product-datasheets-a/Bus_Ele_DS_1011_KTK.pdf

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2015, 11:28:46 pm
content: The only difference between KTK and KLK is the manufacturer, as far as I know. I've seen both used in Fluke and comparable meters.

author: spirulerlocus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2015, 04:21:33 am
content: Fantastic! Thank you for your help.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2015, 06:33:04 pm
content: The KTK is not specified for DC.
k/w heatsink - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ascot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2021, 07:40:38 am
content: anyone tell me what sort of temperature 3.3 k/w in celsius would be in regards to a heatsink

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 02, 2021, 07:45:21 am
content: Context?I could make a guess here - but a bit more information would make it easier to give a meaningful answer.

author: ascot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2021, 07:53:14 am
content: all i got to go on is the thermal resistance on data sheet specifying 3.3k\w nothing about what sort of heat it could dissipate

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 02, 2021, 08:08:58 am
content: My interpretation of that is that you will get a 3.3ºK increase in temperature for each watt of power being dissipated through the heatsink. (Note ºK is the same as ºC when it comes to changes in temperature.)Also realise that this is justone partof the thermal resistance path from the source of the heat (typically a semiconductor junction) to the ambient. Each step needs to be included to get the total thermal resistance of the heat dissipation path.Dave did a video on this ages ago .... worth a watch.

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2021, 05:22:47 pm
content: 1W of power you put into the heatsink continuously increases the heatsink temperature by 3.3K, which is the same as by 3.3 deg C. If the ambient is at +30degC, the heatsink is now at +33.3degC.10W of power obviously increases the heatsink temperature by 33 degC, and so on.Note that many heatsink types are not linear so the formula works correctly only at some range of temperatures, and mispredicts the temperature rise outside that range. Usually that means the heatsinks work worse at low power, and better at high power, so the error usually plays in your favor, but this is something to be considered when accurate numbers are needed.
L293D & Arduino - Where I connect the 12 volt ground - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Brown
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 05:25:48 pm
content: Hi quick question, I was playing with the L293D Moter driver and Arduino and was wondering do I connect pin 8 of the L293D to a +12v and the ground to the ground of the Arduino. This is what I was doinghttp://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-arduino-lesson-15-dc-motor-reversing/overviewThanks!

author: mortos360
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 06:08:31 pm
content: that tutorial uses 5V... where did you get 12V?

author: Brown
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 06:12:25 pm
content: I know but I have a bigger motor that won't run on 5 volts

author: DrLuke
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 06:38:17 pm
content: Where are you getting the 12V from? Are you powering the Arduino from the same 12V?

author: Nerull
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 06:50:04 pm
content: You would connect pin 8 to +12V, pin 16 to +5V from the arduino. Connect the ground to your 12V supply and connect the ground from your supply to the arduino ground.

author: Brown
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 07:19:12 pm
content: DrLuke, no I'm using a separate 9 volt but thanks Nerull it worked!