THERMOELECTRIC COOOLING A PC  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKJKzuaxUhk - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ElectronSpinner
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 19, 2016, 11:38:46 pm
content: I have been working this for a while. I am returning electronics nerd from the fathoms but I have forgotten some simple things. If this thermochiller works should I blow the hot air off the plates or pull it off? On this system as it is it will blow the hot air off the chiller plates and through the whole case. My first instinct is to pull the air out with the fan (see videos) but not sure, the haf x case air flow set up is pretty clear please advise.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2016, 11:45:48 pm
content: I'll dodge watching this video, as on whirlpool forums i've faced many people dreaming of the same thingKey points are, you have to double your cooling capacity, as to remove 1W of heat you need the peltier to do 1W of work, meaning 2W of heat to deal with on the hot side,The cold side must be dehumidified then properly sealed, as condesation will want to build up at that area, and droplets of condensed water from atmosphere tend to drag along a few impurities from the air making it suprisingly conductiveYou will have to check overclocking forums to see how your cpu handles negative temperatures, its likely that even if you make a variable system, the cpu can change power levels faster than anything you can make, meaning at points the cpu die could go negative, say in a full idle state,If your peltier ever looses power, then the cpu will be pumping into an insulator, worse still if you ever power it backwards,You will also artificially age both the board and CPU from an increased thermal cycle range this can be minimised depending on your apprach but its something to be aware of,

author: ElectronSpinner
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 20, 2016, 12:23:03 am
content: I pulled this from a working unit my idea is SOUND. Watch the video please I am close, pushing and pulling the air out is the question.

author: ElectronSpinner
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 20, 2016, 12:26:15 am
content: I just ordered a separate PSU to power the chiller i tested it a few days ago with my PSU it was not nice it almost killed my PC with the external PS I should be able to maintain .2 degrees/m drop in temperature and I have also ordered a temp controller to moderate as I please.

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2016, 01:26:10 am
content: Nether is optimal. Hot exhaust into the case heats everything else, (with twice as much heat, as mentioned) exhausting out the front cools the chiller plate with already warm air. Raise the air temp by 5c, and the water temperature goes up 5c.Also, you mentioned a radiator? Don't do that. PC water cooling is generally high flow, which makes for very low temperature gradients in the loop. A liang ddc will push 3-5 liters per minute though a loop. 150w of dissipation (pretty high, even in a overclocked system) will be 9000 joules per minute. Which is 3 joules per gram of water, at 4.186j/g-C, that's only a 0.72C rise across the cpu block.That means the water can only be 0.72C below ambient when it goes into the cpu block, as it will be ambient coming out, and the radiator will do nothing. Any cooler than that, and your radiator will be warming the loop and cooling the air.If you want to do sub ambient watercooling with TECs you need to use them to dissipate all your heat, and keep the "hot" surface close to ambient. Not easy with puny heatsinks like that.Either put a beefy tec between the cpu and water block with copper heatspreaders, use a second water loop and cool the peltiers with waterblocks (and a 4x or 6x 120mm fan sized radiator) or get lots more of those water chillers you showed in the video.

author: ElectronSpinner
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 20, 2016, 01:59:23 am
content: this pump can push 600l/pm I am starting to believe you guys. I just hooked up an old 1000w psu and I only got about 3 degrees drop in temo HORRIBLE SCRAP IT AY?

author: ElectronSpinner
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 20, 2016, 02:02:36 am
content: i GOT A 600L/PM PUMP TWO 200RPM PWM FANS A 240MM RADIATOR RUNNING THROUGH THIS CHILLER AND IT FAILS wtf?

author: ovnr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2016, 03:25:48 am
content: Peltiers stopped being relevant for PC cooling years ago, as evidenced by the fact thatnoone uses them anymore. Well, for CPU/GPU cooling anyhow.If you're serious about sub-ambient cooling, you have two options:* A refrigerator-based unit - these seem to also have fallen out of favor; Asetek used to make a few.* Evaporative cooling (LN2, dry ice, etc) - obviously not useful for a permanent setup.Also, protip: Type up a description, I'm not going to go spend 5m watching a video of someone rambling on about things.