RCA Jack repair or replace - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: adauphin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 12, 2017, 05:16:14 pm
content: This is from my B&K Ref 50 preamp/processor, the ground of the RCA connector appears to have come loose from the board. It seems to not be a cold solder joint, but a broken tap just before it contacts the board.Perhaps this is a common style and I can either replace with the same or of a higher quality piece. I would like to to mount to the rear of the chassis in the stock location without hacking up the chassis if all possible. This is the output for the front main speakers so quality is high on the list.I was getting as loud buzz in the speakers when moving the cable and I can see the pin move when wiggling the ground of the RCA jack.Maybe I can get a solder contact without removing the jack, but worst case that i have to replace the jack, are there any that would appear to match up to this?The 3 vertical jacks are siamesed with the 3 on the left, so it's a 6-jack part for lack of proper terms.If I can remove the RCA jack assembly and use single high quality jacks then that would be fine, providing they will fit close together on the rear cover.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 12, 2017, 05:58:31 pm
content: I would desolder it, solder a piece of wire instead of the broken pin and then solder it back. Replacing with individual connectors will be a messy job at least.

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2017, 06:40:37 pm
content: Unless you are extraordinarily lucky, you won't find an exact replacement for the connector module. There are so many different kinds, your chance of finding the right one are slim to none. So you can either repair the problem, orreplacethe entire module with discrete RCA jacks.Note that the module has six connectors, so you have do do all or nothing. Trying to cut it in half is a losing proposition. And mounting six discrete RCA jacks on the back panel and connecting them to the "motherboard" will be a difficult task at best.My strong preference would be torepairthe existing connector module and save the drama. I would heat up and pull out the broken part of the ground lug from the PC board hole (from the bottom). Then I would stick a tinned, bare wire (like perhaps 26 AWG) through the hole so that it laps over the intact part of the ground lug. Then I would melt enough solder into the hole so that it "drips" down (in a controlled manner) and bonds your repair wire onto the remaining part of that ground lug.If you have a long, narrow-tapered soldering iron tip, you could even shove it in above the PC board and directly touch the ground lug. It will probably melt some of the plastic body of the connector module, but if it fixes the problem, who cares?

author: adauphin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 12, 2017, 06:53:39 pm
content: The bare, tinned wire sounds like a good plan.I guess depending on price for six RCA terminals, I could use a thick piece of plastic, like one of those blue outlet covers from one of the box stores, then drill 6 holes for the RCA terminals.I could use single, solid-core copper wire and bend them at right angles from the terminals down to the board, then solder the wire ends to the board.That would obviously be the more tedious task but likely a much more secure mount.I will look into replacing the ground pin with a wire, I believe I can get the soldering iron tip in there if I enlarge the opening slightly.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2017, 06:55:14 pm
content: It looks like a dried joint to me.To confirm this before you carry out any elaborate action, I would advise that you suck out or wick out the old solder, clean the pad with IPA, apply fresh flux and re-solder from the bottom of the PCB.Nothing to loss from this exercise.

author: adauphin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 12, 2017, 07:17:30 pm
content: I was thinking a bad joint as well, but part of the tap is still on the bottom of the board in the solder.I will double.check that though first.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2017, 08:17:16 pm
content: I meant the tap need to be soldered to the pad so that it will not wiggle. The tap needs to be anchored to the board by the solder. it will wiggle without anchor point.

author: cvanc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2017, 10:18:18 pm
content: It sounds like the solder joint or cracked tab can be repaired. However, should you need parts, there is an eBay seller in the U.S. that has a large quantity of original B&K boards. His name is vcenter-parts and his stock can be found here:http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?item=280893379488&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_ssn=vcenter-parts&_sop=10...I have no affiliation except as an occasional customer. I have gotten B&K boards from him in the past with good results.Best of luck with your fix.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2017, 11:33:05 pm
content: There is ZERO item for sales!

author: adauphin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 13, 2017, 08:31:21 am
content: Thanks for the link...I'll definitely keep the seller in mind for the future.I was able to remove the RCA jack assembly and get a good solder connection on the broken tap with a piece of 20 gauge, stiff, long grain copper from some speaker wire I had. The repair is pretty solid, strong enough for some stubborn RCA cables but I will try to avoid those now....Sorry but I thought I had a pic of the soldered piece but I forgot to take one, but here's the part with the broken ground tab on the left.All went back together well, I'm listening to it now and all is good.I appreciate the help, saved me alot of fabrication.