Troubleshooting Cadillac Camera - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: AKMac
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 07, 2018, 08:32:28 pm
content: Hey guys,So I finally got all the capacitors and a burnt out resistor replaced on my camera. Applied 12 volts, camera spun up and booted for about a minute, then tried to display video. Butttt of course issues... So the video output has the temperature gradient at the bottom of the feed, but the video output is all black. No motion, no nothing, Any ideas as to what might cause this?Thanks in advance,

author: Spirit532
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2018, 09:27:07 pm
content: Is the chopper working?

author: AKMac
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 08, 2018, 05:41:47 am
content: Yup, chopper looks great, minus a few tears in the material. Absolutely nothing other than black video. Could the BST array actually have died somehow?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2018, 10:32:01 am
content: Monitor the current draw, it can tell you a lot about the camera.Current draw should be quite high initially, something in the range 500mA to 700mA on my BST based ARGUS Cameras. This is the sensor heating load. Once the sensor reaches temperature the current draw should drop significantly, say around 300mA. If you do not see this current draw profile, the camera sensor management is not working and the fault is before the video processing stages.A working BST sensor produces a noisy picture even if it has lost its vacuum. A plain grey nousless display tends to indicate a dead BST sensor stage as no noise is being passed to the video processing stages. A 'black' display as you describe suggests a possible video stage problem. Some poking around with an oscilloscope should reveal where the video signal, is, and is not present. The BST sensor produces an analogue 'video' output signal (not composite video though!) If you get the datasheets for the various IC's on the boards you should be able to spot suitable signal path test points.Fraser

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2019, 05:52:03 pm
content: Would be OK to post questions and trouble shooting on some Cadillac Raytheon cameras in this aging thread? I've acquired 6 of these, of two different versions; 3 with external heating connector (these all work), and 3 with internal heating connector (these don't operate at all).The 3 non-working units, one has badly corroded water intrusion issues with actual case erosion, broken outer lens and chipped internal lens. I opened that one and a table spoon of grey/white ash corrosion spilled out. I can rotate the chopper wheel by hand with a little effort. It doesn't turn freely. Should chopper wheels turn freely? The other two inop cameras I left unopened for now. I don't hear any spooling of the wheel on them. No life at all.The 3 working units are like the version I've seen threads on here (with separate external heating connector) and I'm guessing are going to need chopper wheels.Q.) Do these cameras have a duty cycle? Because I've run them recently for as long as 6-9 hours duration.Q.) The non-working ones, where would you start at diagnosing them?Q.) When I get around to opening these up, are there O2 issues to consider? I'm assuming they were assembled and purged of Oxygen.Q.) Chopper wheels, I see they can be printed. Is anyone offering a version for sale?Thanks for any info.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2019, 10:18:36 pm
content: Regrettably I am not in a position to help you fault find on these units but I can offer some quick comments.....The older version with internal heater connection is a flawed design and often suffers internal corrosion that proves terminal.The cameras do not have a duty cycle beyond the motor bearings eventually wearing out if left running 24/7/365. They do not overheat.There are no O2 issues. The camera casings are water-tight but not filled with nitrogen or a vacuum.Chopper wheels can suffer ripped membranes. The 3D printed version works but you will need to find someone to print it for you.Fraser

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2019, 11:39:05 pm
content: I wonder if the chopper wheel motor is an available item if(when) it fails?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2019, 08:30:33 am
content: The motor the same type as used in CD player decks and is a format that is easily sourced as a spare part from China.Fraser

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2019, 02:19:08 pm
content: The one from my Caddie works without fail so far, but frequently has poor contrast while having a refined image (low noise). Poor contrast so much so that it's not immediately evident when a heat signature is present. I saw movement on screen but no bright heat and imagined a ghillie suited neighbor was crawling beside my house, but when I went outside in my flip-flops he had shape-shifted into an alarmed adult possum.So reviewing recordings could be problematic if looking for the white hot contrast.The two other newer version cams that spin up have sporadically displayed much more contrast (and much higher noise ratio), but will sometimes exhibit spikes across the screen similar to an oscilloscope display, then a purely vertical grid of an absolutely stable reddish to blackish pattern filling the screen from top to bottom, then sometimes sparkling pixelations reminiscent of The Matrix. They have MUCH clearer heat signatures when they work.One camera (at 11:30 at night) has caught a bird flying quickly across screen, which was neat. Last week I heard some weird noises I judged to be someone trying to imitate an owl. Maybe it truly was an owl, after seeing that.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2019, 09:13:56 pm
content: The Cadillac cameras are basically the standard Raytheon Thermal Eye 300 design modified to suit an automotive application. Sadly the schematics for these and other Raytheon cores were never released or leaked into the public domain. This is typical of most/all thermal cameras and you have to reverse engineer parts or all of the circuits in order to carry out normal fault tracing procedures. I am used to working without schematics so tend to identify key sub systems and check them for signs of normal operation. If I find something unusual, I reverse engineer that part of the circuit and delve deeper with diagnostics. If no obvious issues are apparent I have to reverse engineer each sub system of the camera design and test it for correct functionality. It is hard work and time consuming. I never reverse engineered the Cadillac or Thermal Eye 300 cameras as I did not have a fault to track down. Hence why I cannot help you on the fault finding front.I can make some generic comment on the Cadillac camera though......The camera is relatively old, has been exposed to a broad range of temperatures and may have suffered water ingress. Always inspect the case interior and PCB’s for any evidence of water ingress. If found, track down all damage. This sometimes requires the removal components as fluid tends to accumulate under Chips and even smaller components and corrosion occurs over time. The most common corrosion occurs on rails that are carrying DC power rather than data lines. Power rails and chip power pins can get eaten away or may look OK, but have high resistance. Water is pretty deadly to these camera cores if enough gets past the seals. The heat inside the camera and its age can lead to failure of the tantalum capacitors. It does no harm to replace all the tantalum capacitors but ensure you fit the same specification or tears can result when they burn-up ! Just read the data sheet for the types fitted and buy the same surge tolerant types. The motor that drives the chopper wheel is generally reliable but ensure if is not suffering worn out commutator brushes as that can cause RFI and poor motor performance. The motor spindle should be very easy to spin. Any sluggishness or resistance in the shaft rotation points to stuffed oilite bearings. You may feel the magnetic influence on the rotor but that us very different to a sticky shaft feel.. The motor should quickly spin up the chopper wheel to the correct speed and it should be locked-in using a PLL as this chopper wheel is essential to the correct refreshing of the BST sensor after each sensor Row is read. If the chopper wheel drops out of sync, the image will be awful, or non existant. Very poor contrast or no image can be chopper wheel synchronisation related. Chopper wheel speed stability can sometimes be checked by listening to the motor note but a more reliable way is an optical tachometer of an oscilloscope monitoring the chopper wheel IR reflector sensor output that reflects off of a silver dot on the rear of the chopper wheel. A damaged chopper wheel membrane will also degrade the imaging performance. A camera that appears functional but does not produce an image may have a BST sensor issue, such as coming up to atmosphere due to a vacuum seal leak. This can be checked by temporarily installing another (known good) BST sensor from another camera. The display, if it appears will have dead pixels present but if an image appears then you know the original BST sensor has a problem. Clean all its pins and re-install it. If no image appears, it is scrap. The camera system is calibrated to the sensor and the dead pixel map is part of that ‘calibration’. As such you cannot usually rob a good sensor from another camera for permanent use. The image will likely be covered in little black dots (dead pixels).A lot can be learnt about a BST Raytheon core by monitoring its current draw and chopper wheel at start up. The current draw will initially be quite high, say 800mA as the heater within the BST sensor brings the sensor up to around 32C (it’s nominal operating temp). Within a short period of time the current will drop to say 380mA as the heater drops to idle running current. Whilst the camera is starting, the chopper wheel should spin up to speed, overshoot a little and then settle to a steady speed, producing a constant hum. If the chopper wheel sounds like it’s speed is ramping up and down, it means the camera electronics are not able to lock its RPM and phase to the sensors readout electronics and a very poor, or no image will result. The spiral mask on the membrane must be in exactly the right position as the BST sensor is read-out. It effectively follows the read-out rows and erases them ready for the next scene capture. A small error in the chopper wheels phase with respect to the read-out process is detrimental to the whole systems performance.The BST core applies certain bias voltages to the BST sensor. If any of these are missing or incorrect, there will be either no image or a very poor image. I cannot provide the pinout for the BST sensor or the voltages that you should expect to see. You can use a known good camera as a reference against which to compare though. All voltages and signals should be similar enough to be of use in diagnostics. All power supplies should be checked for presence and correct level. Again, a known good camera can provide a reference for such checks. Beyond this, you are entering into the digital World with a fast ADC converting the analogue signal stream of the Sensors read out chip into a digital signal that is presented to the digital video processing stage. And then on to the image creation stage with its SRAM and TV system compliance. A microprocessor oversees the cameras operation and detects errors and faults. Sadly I cannot help you with any of the digital stuff as I have not delved into such in these cameras.You have a number of cameras. I suggest you take the one that works best out of all of them and make a series of voltage and signal readings on key components and power supplies. Use that unit to learn about how the camera should behave when working. Once you know the camera, take a look at the faulty units and compare readings and data. You may well be able to identify the cause of the problem. Robbing parts from the worst condition unit may be an option if there is not too much damage evident within it.Hope this helps a littleFraser

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2019, 11:40:59 pm
content: So many projects right now, at least this one is fun in that it opens up the darkness. Ok, thank you. I'm a bit worried about compromised seals due to age/wear on these because they will continue to be used outdoors (with some additional water shedding device for use in inclement conditions). I've run them overnight but bring them in if it rains more than a drizzle, and even then I cover them with a plastic bag. Today the 3rd harness was completed for the 3 working cameras so some comparative tests can be done. Then I'll open them up for inspection.Modifications to the original cowl support car mount are being done for the first one so it can be attached to a vertical squared C shaped bracket that will allow it to tilt and the bracket screwed 1 times to a base so it can pivot on that base point (all manually for this phase). Later it will all be by remote control.Q.) The dead unit housings, I wonder if these outdoor housings could be retrofitted with another core for outdoor use providing the seals are good? Only one has an intact outer Germanium lens. Can another style core see through that bulb shaped lens dealio that is inside? Hmm. I have a Scout TK I'll see if it sees through.

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2019, 12:09:43 am
content: I have a few wheels in 'ok' condition, and plenty of motors of several versions, both 'CD player' and the earlier Swiss ones.However the choppers are all the OEM core type, the thread below details that the Cadillac's were a slightly different size as well as using a different detection system for positionhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/thermal-camera-teardown-raytheon-cadillac-deville-thermal-nightvision-camera/msg1001000/#msg1001000Bill

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2019, 12:36:19 am
content: The dead version I opened has a chopper wheel version sort of like a crank position sensor setup. The wheel housing has on notch on the outer edge which triggers an optic sensor (assumed optic). It isn't a reflective material like the other version, just a small cut out notch that completes a path when the opening travels through the sensor setup. The motor housing is so rusty that it's pitted. The first board in which connects from the exterior plug harness on the car is partially burned from water intrusion. The wheel is somewhat intact. Most caps look ok with a couple noted as having white residue on them. One area of the board looks ratty. The housing is junk other than as a prop.

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2019, 02:05:36 pm
content: Not the right choice of material for the base in an outdoor environment, I know. It needs a bit of weight though and the 3/4" was nearby.

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2019, 09:57:21 pm
content: OK, so a relatively early one.The ones going through when I visited were edge detected and CD motor for automotive use. The OEM kits at the time were using the Swiss motors but they could suffer from instability due to gyroscopic effects which we (EEV/Marconi) noticed when making the first Argus 3's, so changed to the CD motor.A fair chance Argus parts would fit.Bill

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 01:23:13 pm
content: Here's some shots of the terrible one. You can see staining on the wheel from water holding in the camera housing. It doesn't really like rotating anymore. The timing cutout is barely seen so I arrowed it and the sensor it rotates through. In the 2nd pic the wheel notch is on the right. In the 3rd you can see the heater internal wiring at the bottom. The wiring on the left side is the main wiring harness in and out to the 6 pin water tight plug.https://imgur.com/a/nSZnLBp

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 01:36:19 pm
content: That is using the standard Thermal Eye 300A chopper wheel IR gate position sensor. Later models use a reflector based IR position sensor.That particular camera is toast, but then I suspect you already knew that 😉Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 01:46:11 pm
content: For those unaware, I did a teardown of the later MKII version of the Cadillac DeVille camera .....https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/thermal-camera-teardown-raytheon-cadillac-deville-thermal-nightvision-camera/It has significant design improvements over the MKI, including a sealed lens assembly that does not allow water ingress if the stone shield is shattered, unlike the MKIFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 01:54:58 pm
content: My introduction to the Cadillac cameras contains pictures of the MKII camera but also some pictures of the Raytheon Thermal Eye 300A on which the Cadillac MK1 camera is based.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/thermal-camera-affordable-raytheon-night-vision-thermal-camera-unit/Fraser

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 02:51:36 pm
content: There are 2 more of these MK1 versions in the pile, one with intact front lens but also doesn't work, probably for the same water ingress reason. I'll tear those down perhaps today for a look-see.

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 06:56:40 pm
content: I took some pics of the better MK1 along with a MK2. Very different designs. For the MK1 I'll look closer but the chopper wheel suspension looks to be different and perhaps that's a result of what Bill W mentioned with the Swiss and CD player motor versions? On the cruddy MK1 earlier, the chopper wheel came off attached to the imager board, but maybe that's because it's full of corrosion?The nicer MK1 the chopper wheel is on a cradle that suspends the wheel over the imager chip (you can possibly see some contact sweeps have occurred) and thecradle has 8 pins which plug into the other case's PCB when closed. So if you take one apart look for that.You can pick the chopper wheel and cradle right off of the assembly with no wiring involved. Nice.There is some fouling on the upper PC board of the nice MK1, probably from some moisture, though the Germanium lens isn't broken.I'm very tempted to hit the complete board with some CRC brand QD ELECTRONIC CLEANER aerosol spray unless someone convinces me not to.I used it on a Yorkville AUDIOPRO3000 PA amp last week that was filthy. Bought the amp in a junkyard for $17 with 30 day warranty. It works.

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 07:00:59 pm
content: Next set. Note they both have the same chopper motor number. Manufacture dates of the units are Feb and Nov if I read it correctly. These must be the CD motor upgrades.

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 07:05:30 pm
content: Last two pics above are the MK2. When it cracked open it smelled a bit like a new set of tires. Note the apparent lens adjustment in the MK2 (brass gear). On the rear is a screw in a boss you can remove and a tool must've been inserted in the assembled unit to focus the lens by the brass gear. It has no means of adjusting now, so I'm assuming once it was set they drilled the splines?The two version are very different. The MK2 is much more compact.

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 07:07:29 pm
content: A few more. One of the harness with color codes and the internal pins. They are Pink, BK with W stripe, Yellow, Green, BK with W stripe, Brown.Pink +12VBK w/ W stripe is ground (two times)Yellow and Green are signal high and low. I'm told you can reverse these for white hot or black hot. I did mine Green to tip, Yellow to ring. White hot.Brown is said to be a 3V reference point when the Cadillac's lights turn on that dims (I think)There's another harness version with fewer wires but the coding is the same. If you find a camera in a junkyard, cut the pigtail and take it. The plug is $45 USD on ebay.The early and late plugs while 6 pin aren't interchangeable unless you grind the

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 08:11:22 pm
content: Your 'Mk1' is still the larger hub compared to the OEM kit version. Your 'Mk2' is a very intricate design - I do not recall seeing that in a teardown before, or did you take it off Fraser ?Could you measure the outer diameter of the chopper zone ?I think that changed at least once and is the main problem with spare chopper wheels.The OEM kit also had an option of a chopper wheel cradle / assembly, but for Argus cameras we did not take it and made our own mounts for the wheel and the chopper sensor.Bill

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 08:12:38 pm
content: I know there are other pics of the chopper wheels, but here are mine. MK1 wheel with edge notch then MK2. Didn't I read in the other thread that there is a relation to the pattern start and the timing triggers? You can't see the sensor or the dot, but they are underneath.

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2019, 08:24:49 pm
content: Quote from: Bill W on April 19, 2019, 08:11:22 pmThose are my pics. I reassembled it already but did visually compare the chopper wheel sizes between the two and they are the same (visually). I noted the difference in size on the other thread but these are the same approximate size.QuoteI still have another nonworking MK1 to tear down and perhaps one other MK2 to check the wheel. The camera that I prefer is quite noisy but has the best contrast of the three MK2 variety that I have. One has poor contrast. Another is better. It may not be coincidence that the two most refined, least noise producing imaged camera have the poorer contrast.So far I've caught possums, a couple of rabbits, a fox (chasing one of the rabbits) and probably a coyote in my yard. I'm in a subdivision in the city. Haven't caught a bear yet, but there's a chance. One was in a nearby neighborhood a couple years ago. It trashed some poor woman's living room when I dog spooked it.It was later spotted playing on a school playground.

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2019, 04:06:45 pm
content: For completeness, here is 'Mk zero' initially with a cut out but more commonly with a plain area for the 'clear' section.The 'diffused' section is the same pattern on all, but is apparently at slightly different diameters to cope with a move in the sensor location on the Cadillac cameras.Bill

author: leaf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2019, 01:31:17 pm
content: Nice looking wheel. My camera with poorer contrast is sometimes operating with decent contrast. I tried opening another earlier camera, but the lower screws are corroded in and giving resistance. They WILL break if I force them, so...more to come when I get them out.I kept spotting the fox on my other cameras, leading me to investigate and it turns out there's a fox den under my old shed I was about to tear down. I walked down there to place a game camera, heard small dog sized barking (which I didn't think a fox does) and then some head bumping sounds on wood. There's a dugout under the shed and while standing there a fox kit walked out and looked around. It never focused on me probably due to lighting and that it has never seen what a human is supposed to look like. I'm guessing the barking was warning to the kit from the mother.There's a ground hog hole 5 feet from the fox den. Hawks breed in the neighbor's back yard bordering mine. This place is an animal house. Pretty surprising what goes on around us right within view.