SMD Rework Microscope suggestions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Prime
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2023, 01:20:00 am
content: I've read up on various threads and I'm looking for some updated information on a good Microscope for SMT work for the office.It's going to be used for assembling the occasional prototype and for reworking existing boards to specific customer requirements.We have an old manual binocular microscope on an arm but it's awful to work through and the optics are distinctly average.We also have a Suba which is used for inspection. The image quality on the Suba is reasonable but the build quality is rather average and it's fiddly to get the contrast right. I don't love the idea of trying to use it to do SMT soldering.So far I've narrowed it tohttps://mektronics.com.au/products/bernstein-stereo-microscope-200-x-150-mm-with-articulated-arm(I don't love this. it's very similar to our current one and has no camera option.https://hawkerrichardson.com.au/product/mantis-pixo/https://mektronics.com.au/products/tagarno-fhd-zip-digital-microscope-systembut I'm open to other suggestions based on peoples' own experiences.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2023, 08:29:31 pm
content: Have you looked at theMeiji Techno EMZ-series? They havea dealer in Sydney.

author: jayx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2023, 09:41:33 pm
content: Each one of those you've listed is different type, I think first you need to decide which type you want. Anyway, out of these you've listed:First one don't seem to have variable magnification, it's quite usefull. Working distance seems to be a bit small, but perhaps can be increased with extra Barlow lens.Second one (Mantis) I have no experience with, but working distance seems to be a bit small.Third one is good, but expensive. Check this:Meiji Techno EMZ-series is something I can recommend if you want to go for this type. I think it's expensive, but very good quality. Other one similar to Meiji is Kyowa, but this company don't exist anymore so only available second hand.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2023, 09:51:51 pm
content: If its going to be used for assembly and rework, then IMO, a camera based unit like the tagarno is not great. Although I know some people here are OK with that. Depends on preference.As jayx said, first one is overpriced for what you get, no zoom.Mantis can be good, some of us here don't like them. As mentioned, working distance is not great, and FOV is not good. Get a demo unit or go try it somewhere if you can."We have an old manual binocular microscope on an arm but it's awful to work through and the optics are distinctly average. "Unless its a cheap piece of garbage, damaged, or dirty, the optics won't make much difference for electronics work.Why specifically is it awful to work through? Maybe you need better lighting? Ergonomics?

author: Solder_Junkie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2023, 08:52:24 am
content: Quote from: Prime on August 29, 2023, 01:20:00 amWhile I have no experience of the models mentioned, I recently bought a Swift S41-20. The cost is a fraction of those suggested types. It only has fixed x10 and x20 magnification. The working distance with the x10 is great for SMD work down to at least 0603 size Rs and Cs. The two adjustable "swan neck" LED lights provide very good lighting too. Optically I cannot fault it.Maybe it's more hobby/budget but it is very solidly built and more than adequate for my SMD work/rework.SJ

author: Prime
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2023, 01:49:05 pm
content: I haven't. I'll give them a look over.Quote from: jayx on August 29, 2023, 09:41:33 pmI'll take a look at the Eakins... Potentially it could work with a trinocular setup or be used stand alone as required.In terms of what I'd like, what appeals to me with the mantis is that I don't have to have my eyes pressed to it. That is the single biggest annoyance with a binocular microscope on an arm. The viewing area is tiny which also makes it awkward to move it around on an assembly.Quote from: thm_w on August 29, 2023, 09:51:51 pmThe lighting could be better but it's passable. It's the ergonomics and small viewing area that seals it.Magnification is 10 and 30x. At 30x, you are so close to the work piece that it's almost useless.It's going to be used exclusively for prototype assembly and rework. We have a dedicated rework setup.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2023, 03:04:35 pm
content: Quote from: Prime on August 30, 2023, 01:49:05 pmI don't think you can go wrong with a Meiji Techno, if that is what you are answering.Hereare some vendor evaluations out of America.Does your present binocular microscope have 30mm high eyepoint eyepieces (usually with little eyeglass symbols on them)? That took care of viewing problems for me, and I wear glasses which reduce the viewing envelope longitudinal. Yesterday, I spent some time inspecting and photographing a somewhat awkward, fiber optic illuminator for damage, at minimum and maximum magnification, and did not notice the eyepieces. I have attached a couple pictures for your amusement. I would say it was dropped.

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2023, 09:54:16 pm
content: Mantis scopes are really cool, but definitely get a demo first to make sure you like the experience. We have an elite as well as a basic trinoc that each have their pros and cons. Mantis is better for situations where you need to look at the subject from different angles, but the price is a big downside, and the fixed zoom is a bummer. The Elite does have a turret that lets you fit two objectives, and the objectives are easy to swap with a thumbscrew retention, but the non-elite version IIRC you have to unscrew the objectives to swap. Elite also has a wider viewing area.IME a 7-45x zoom with a 0.5x barlow lens (so ultimately 3.5x-22.5x) is the sweet spot for rework. The barlow halves magnification but doubles working distance, and on the rare occasion that you need to get a REALLY close look at something you can take the barlow off and use the full magnification. Get a trinoc (and preferably a simul-focal) and you have the option of fitting a camera later on. Make sure the stand has a focus rack so you can adjust the focus height easily.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2023, 10:25:17 pm
content: Yeah fixed 10x/30x zoom is terrible. 3x-25x as mentioned above is a good range.Mantis is definitely the best in terms of usability with glasses on and being away from the eyepiece.But if you have a proper stereo microscope at the right height, with ergonomically angled eyepieces, its just as good if not better for long periods of use IMO. Also a boom stand which is better than the mantis one is <$300.Quote from: ajb on August 30, 2023, 09:54:16 pmCompact has a horrific viewing area, then there is the old Mantis and the updated Elite which are somewhat similar. A cheap stereo microscope with standard WF 10x/22 eyepieces is better FOV than either.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/disappointed-in-mantis-elite/FOV spec for 2x zoom: compact = 45mm, old 56mm, elite = 57mm

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2023, 10:38:23 pm
content: I like working with a Mantis but not at high magnification. 4x is ok. As I have no room for a Mantis I'm using a 'Daylight' magnifier lamp with a 2.25 (5 diopter) lens. It works good downto 0402 and general inspection. Both Mantis and the magnifier lamp give a lot of freedom of movement with a good field of depth. Somehow I fear this will be more limited by using a microscope which is typically made for far greater magnifications than you need for electronics work. For further magnification I use a simple magnifier lense.

author: loki42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2023, 03:09:46 pm
content: I tried the Mantis for a little bit at a trade show and it works well with glasses, but I prefer the continuous zoom from my Carl Zeiss.Focus is more comfortable as well.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 31, 2023, 03:25:34 pm
content: Digital microscope is good for inspection. However no matter how good it is, it will suck for soldering. Doable but no anywhere comfortable as a half-decent entry level stereo microscope.

author: alligatorblues
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2023, 08:24:21 am
content: I use a camera usb microscope. Never had a problem.

author: MR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2023, 10:22:56 am
content: Quote from: wraper on August 31, 2023, 03:25:34 pmMaybe this is a user preference thing.I have no problem to solder under a HDMI microscope I have nearly 30-40cm free space between the microscope and the table.While I have a binocular microscope as well - Its nice and the 3d experience is there but the digital hdmi microscope is standard.It's important that the camera has at least 60fps, I saw a 30fps digital microscope in the university nearby - it sucked.

author: ANTALIFE
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2023, 11:41:40 pm
content: At my previous work we got the one Dave reviewed in EEVblog #1125 and found it to be really good for inspection. Rework wise it was not that bad either.At my current work I am looking at getting the next model up (?) from the same supplier (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001034470355.html), but I just found that we can't buy from AliExpress

author: m98
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2023, 11:15:31 pm
content: With trinocular microscopes, you need to be aware that the light of one ocular is permanently splitted 50% to the camera port. So if you just want a microscope to work under, get a binocular microscope.Regarding the Mantis, always thought this was a brilliant concept and was convinced to buy one from Dave's review ... until we got an older Mantis Elite from another department at work. Build quality is probably inspired by Fischer Prince, and it's even more bulky in person than it comes across on screen. Optics, especially the FOV are quite average, and the missing zoom gets annoying if you work on a variety of different stuff. Definitely try one out before you buy. If you want something in that price bracket, take a look at the Leica A60.I just bought a Zeiss Stemi 305, made by Motic (they also have fitting accessories for 1/6 the Zeiss price), so maybe I can do a small review when it arrives.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2023, 01:06:58 am
content: Quote from: m98 on October 04, 2023, 11:15:31 pmTrinocular just means three ports, it doesn't mean all three must be active at the same time. The trinoculars I've used all have a slider to allow you to enable or disable the camera port, the style you are referring to might be called "simultaneous trinocular" or similar. Or they might not differentiate the two, which is a good point to look out for.Agreed on the mantis build quality.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2023, 07:22:51 am
content: I have not seen a simple word to describe how a trinocular splits it light. Amscope and some other Chinese brands keep usingsimulfocalfor a constant 50:50 split between camera and eyepiece, but I do not think that word means what they think it means.Generally, you see a brief description, for example in this case, a "50:50 photo port with permanent splitting" (Meiji Techno) or "direct light to all three ports simultaneously" (Zeiss). A variant to watch for has a lever you can flip that will send all the light to both eyepieces when you are not using a camera.EDIT:The latter is more nice to have if you have an LED light source with good thermal management, find yourself pushing the limits of the microscope and either want or need another f-stop of brightness. It can be a bigger and more general win with a high power, halogen light source if halving the brightness means replacing bulbs significantly less often.

author: mon2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2023, 03:01:27 pm
content: We have this one and will be purchasing at least one more of the same model. Be sure to source the proper fittings for room of the solder tools. The vendor is very knowledgeable - they are the factory.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003450437164.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.3e5c770de4ugsq&algo_pvid=9f83d548-c07d-409b-b714-40b3b01f6d17&algo_exp_id=9f83d548-c07d-409b-b714-40b3b01f6d17-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21239.25%21177.04%21%21%21239.25%21%21%402103223416965178837673448e7ee8%2112000025846424199%21sea%21CA%21104657229%21&curPageLogUid=sxx27KPeX0KVWatch the video. Have only seen a small glitch where the video view locks up after many hours of idle time into 50/50 (fixed; moveable). Just recycle the power to restore. Not an issue for us.The quality of the video / optics is unbelievable as per the video. Do purchase the ring LED light.

author: mx_g
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 04, 2025, 09:56:34 am
content: Just received a trinocular microscope SMT4 from Askania equipped with a Leica flexacam C5 and this is a really nice solid machine with incredible working distance of over 20cm. It also has an great light transmission which makes extra lights in most cases not even necessary, my old microscope was basically useless without an extra light source.https://askania.de/produkte/askania-mikroskope/smt-4.htmlI am not getting paid for this, but I find it's unfortunate that this model is so little known, I would have never have found it if not for a colleague who recommended it.An online search for SMD (re-)work did only turn up Amscope, Kern and the like, all rebranded versions of Chinese OEM manufacturers. Askania is made in Berlin, Germany.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2025, 11:16:30 am
content: Are you really sure the present microscope is not made by a Chinese contract manufacturer as well?This SMT4 appears to copy the design of the Wild M3C and have a Common Main Objective. An advantage is that a large single objective gathers much more light. A disadvantage is that introduces lateral chromatic aberrations which can be annoying in photomicrographs of shiny objects taken at high magnifications. Which objective did you get, the 0.4X with a 243mm working distance? Did you include the mechanism that lets you slide the objective to the left or right and eliminate the LCAs?

author: mx_g
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 05, 2025, 07:38:06 pm
content: This is made entirely in Rathenow near Berlin. From what I understand the companyAskaniacarries on some heritage from Carl Zeiss Jena, I have an older GDR made microscope which has some resemblance to what Askania is now offering. It is a Common Main Objective optical system, which explains why the image requires so little illumination and this design allows for adding beam splitters and other accessories easily since the stereoscopic beams are in parallel. Check out the huge array of possible components in the system: (PDF)Systemuebersicht.pdfI have the 0.5x which gives you a ~210mm working distance, it's more ergonomic to look into the oculars that way. Focus and chromatic aberration is good, I can post images from the Leica Flexacam if you like to judge for yourself. I did not get any sliding mechanism. It has little resemblance to the Wild M3C other than it is also a CMO design, but you see familiarity with old Carl Zeiss Jena designs like this one:https://shop.unigreenscheme.co.uk/microscopy/stereo-microscopes/carl-zeiss-jena-stereo-zoom-laboratory-microscope-lab.

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2025, 04:13:11 pm
content: I have an old Olympus (Japanese) binocular microscope that I got surplus many years ago for my home shop. I have one of the Chinese ones at work. I made my own ring light wit a bunch of white LEDs mounted to a piece of circuit board that wraps around the body of the scope. It works very well for SMT assembly and inspection. For assembly, you need at least 100 mm of working distance for your hands and the soldering iron.Jon

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 14, 2025, 07:43:43 pm
content: Camera based microscopes suck for working with. The only reason to have a camera based one is if you're a youtuber and need to show people what you're doing. If you just want to take a photo of something, get an eyepiece adapter for a normal camera.Get an optical microscope on a boom, not a dissection stand. Backlighting is pretty much useless for electronics, and if you ever want to use a backlight to check for example a gap between a part and the PCB, use a flashlight. Two 10X eyepieces, 1X lens (flat piece of glass), and a 0.5X Bowers will give you 5X stereo view, lots of working distance, on a boom extended over your work area, and minimum lighting needs. Even the Amscopes are plenty good optically for this, the view will be much better than any budget camera based equivalent.

author: pcm81
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2025, 11:43:00 pm
content: Greetings. I am also shopping for SMD rework microsope. I also weld, but for that application scope would be inspection only, while for pcb soldering it will be for soldering. I am old, i wear 1.5 diopter glasses for close up stuff...Anyhow, i am considering AmScope SM-8TPZ-144S-5M for $1133 on Amazon. I like the arm but will probably upgrade the camera for 8K hdmi output.Does anyone have better suggestions for the microscope? Basically the only things i know for sure that i want are simulfocal, trinocular, zoom and wide eye pieces, small ones suck, i have compound Amscope with small eye pieces and i have hard time using both eyes at the same time defeating the whole purpose of stereo scope. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. $2K price limit, so new mantis is out...

author: bostonman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2025, 02:41:39 am
content: Although I'm not in the market for another microscope, I've read about stereo microscopes, but remain uncertain of their advantage.The main disadvantage of my current basic 30x scope is if the PCB flexes downward (i.e. away from the microscope) when I apply the pressure of the soldering iron, it goes out of focus.I've also had an issue where I needed to look at two objects at two very tiny height differences but can't because one is out of focus or vice versa.I've yet to find a picture comparison of something being magnified between a standard microscope versus a stereo one, but wondering if a stereo one would eliminate or reduce the above issues I've experienced.Otherwise, my reading has provided the answer that a stereo microscope gives a more realistic 3D view of the part(s).

author: pcm81
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2025, 03:11:55 am
content: Quote from: bostonman on August 13, 2025, 02:41:39 amDepth of field is a function of magnification and aperture. You are experiencing shallow depth of field due to large optical magnification. If you zoom out optically and zoom in digitally, assuming your camera has enough resolution, you should get better depth of field. Stereo, mono or tri has no effect.

author: richnormand
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 13, 2025, 03:27:34 am
content: I have an old LOMO binocular stereo microscope meant for biological dissection work. It also has a camera attachment.Probably not available now but the 3D vision and colour correction works great for smd work. I would recommend something like that.I did put a UV filter glass meant for photography in front of the objective assembly to protect it from solder fumes.In that same direction I find that several medical tools are great for electronics work. Extended forceps, ultrasonic dental probes (used in dentistry for teeth cleaning) works great on pcb for smd rework, orthodonture cutters and shapers tools, dentist picks and scrapers, etc....

author: bostonman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2025, 03:29:33 am
content: QuoteMine isn't digital, just a manual typical bench microscope; probably about two-decades old.I got it free and it works well. With the exception of some slight haze on the lenses, it works great. Previously I posted a message asking how to clean all the lenses, but been too scared to mess with any of it. Rather have slight haze than dishing out money for a new microscope.The haze is probably from solder fumes getting inside.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2025, 09:32:57 pm
content: Quote from: bostonman on August 13, 2025, 02:41:39 amThe simplest solution to that is going to be to properly support the PCB so it doesn't flex.Another option would be a digital microscope with autofocus, that will re-focus whenever the PCB is moved.Just moving to stereo will not have any effect.QuoteYes the main value is the 3D view, easier to spot issues and ergonomically nicer. Then any decent one these days will usually have zoom knob too.I assume you are talking about something like this:https://primelabmed.com/product/amscope-k104-y-dissecting-monocular-stereo-microscope-20x-30x

author: bostonman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2025, 12:07:57 am
content: What does a stereo microscope show? As mentioned, I haven't found any side-by-side pictures showing a comparison.I understand it gives a better view, but exactly how?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2025, 12:45:35 am
content: Quote from: bostonman on August 14, 2025, 12:07:57 amYou can't use a 2D image to compare. 2D vs 3D.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2025, 06:58:12 am
content: He doesn't mention it in his video, but a stereo microscope also scales up ("magnifies") your eyes' depth perception and eye/hand coordination for happier fine-detail work.

author: jayx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2025, 11:56:48 am
content: I can recommend Kyowa or Meiji:https://micro-science.co.uk/product/kyowa-stereomicroscope-on-boom-stand/https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135171965482Old models, but I reckon bettr than modern Chinese equivalents. Just make sure you get "zoom" version, with 0.5x lens and good, bright LED light.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2025, 01:43:20 pm
content: Given pcm81's budget, there are a lot of really fine, used microscopes he or she could get that would probably be much nicer to own and use than the new Amscope's under consideration. I have suggested one akin to getting a classic, professional, interchangeable lens camera instead of an advanced, fixed lens, point and shoot, but I don't want to push anyone to try something uncomfortably novel.

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2025, 02:59:35 pm
content: Quote from: jfiresto on August 16, 2025, 01:43:20 pmI second this suggestion. There is nothing NEW about stereo zoom microscopes. I used one at work that was probably made 50 years ago. We now have one of the Chinese-made ones. The fluorescent ring light that came with it used up a huge amount of the working distance. I made my own LED ring light. At home, I have an ancient Olympus microscope that I bought from a dealer. The most important parameter is the working distance. You need at least 100 - 150 mm to get your hands and a soldering iron under there. Second is field of view. I normally wear glasses, but take them off for the microscope. Getting my eyes closer to the eyepieces give me a much larger field of view.Jon

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2025, 04:00:08 pm
content: Quote from: jmelson on August 18, 2025, 02:59:35 pmYou should be able to address that with modern, high eye point eyepieces. With a pair of WHS10X-H/22 30mm eyepieces, I get the same FOV with or without glasses. I wear my glasses because I get a markedly sharper view because of their cylinder correction. Olympus introduced these eyepieces in 2008 for their SZX7 CMO apochromatic microscope. From the product brochure:QuoteThere are some respectable Chinese copies of a classic 10X/23 Zeiss design which I can point you toward if you wish to experiment.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2025, 09:19:50 pm
content: Quote from: jayx on August 16, 2025, 11:56:48 amMissing an eyepiece, not trinocular. Lots of compromise for what kind of increase in image quality? Probably nothing you'd notice when soldering.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2025, 06:20:10 am
content: Imagine you had microscope in which the entire field of view was bright, flat and in focus at all magnifications up to 500 times the Numerical Aperture. Would you notice that?

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2025, 04:46:57 pm
content: Quote from: jfiresto on August 19, 2025, 06:20:10 amOH, YEAH! I would notice that within one second! Now, you are talking "Star Trek" technology, however. Probably can never be achieved with plain glass optics.But, with cameras and computers, maybe.Jon

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2025, 09:54:28 pm
content: Quote from: jfiresto on August 19, 2025, 06:20:10 amI assume so?Let me know if infinite depth of field is possible in a microscope though, thats the main thing that kills me, constant refocusing.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2025, 09:10:55 am
content: Huh? Who said anything about depth of field?But now that you mention it, that is something I am researching and was wondering if you guys could field a question.I am setting up a microscope to use for SMD soldering and inspection, that with 10X eyepieces and an adapted, 0.4X auxiliary objective (barlow lens) should give close to a 180mm working distance and a 2.4–12X zoom range.I expect I may sometimes want a 4.8–24X range which I can get by swapping in 20X eyepieces. I likely won't be soldering smaller than 0603 parts. Do you think I might be swapping eyepieces often enough for that to become a nuisance?Two disadvantages of going to 20X eyepieces is that they don't help the resolution and they reduce the depth of field. But there is a trick I will try, that plays games with the brain and works for many, to perceptively increase both by roughly a third.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2025, 11:15:25 pm
content: Quote from: jfiresto on August 22, 2025, 09:10:55 amNo one, just an area in which an improvement would be very noticeable.QuoteI would personally use just the 5-24x range. 2.4x magnification on a microscope is really low, IMO. But I also don't like the reduced FOV tradeoff.Please post once you come up with something.

author: pcm81
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2025, 11:30:40 pm
content: Just to give an update:I went with AmScope. AmScope SM-8TZ-144S-10MI should have bought that scope and arm separately, without the camera. But that is because i already have Nikon D5 and AmSscope mount for Nikon... So no competition to the $200-$300 USB cam...Overall I like the microscope. Been using it with 10x eye pieces and either 0.5x Barlow or no Barlow lens.Buyer be ware, this is not a simulfocal microscope. The listing is doing a good job of hiding the focus switch screw, but it is there... it is either camera or left eyepiece... Not a big deal for me, but i feel cheated.I also bought 1x Barlow lens from AmScope with intention that it will function as smoke protection for objective lens when soldering without 0.5X Barlow. My disappointment was that the 1x Barlow does not have a thread on it to nest other lenses... idea was to keep 1x Barlow on all the time but now i have to swap.The microscope mount on the arm kind of sucks; the scope is not staying vertical. There is a mall screw that can be backed out to force the scope to stay vertical, but the friction lock is weak.Overall i like the set-up. So far, I have been using the eye pieces more than camera; but that might change once i finalize the camera set-up.The AMcope camera attachment is advertised for crop sensors, but it is able to fill FF sensor with image (edges are somewhat soft, but overall it i not super sharp either way.... usable). I am using Nikon D5 in crop mode, but generally speaking if you are going to use 0.5x Barlow and have large working distance, you want as small of the sensor as you can, to get good zoom for fine work; i mean like 0.25mm pad repair on qfp.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 12:10:40 am
content: https://amscope.com/products/sm-8tz-144s-10mIts not advertised as simulfocal so that makes sense. Simulfocal is also a compromise as half the light is going to one part half to the other:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/stereo-microscope-trinokular-vs-simul-focus-optical-quality/msg3257438/#msg3257438Quote from: pcm81 on September 03, 2025, 11:30:40 pmMaybe you can add some shim/nyloc/teflon tape to increase the resistance. Photo might help.

author: pcm81
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 12:35:04 am
content: Quote from: thm_w on September 04, 2025, 12:10:40 amYeah i realize it was not advertised as simulfocal, i just wanted everything, all at once lol.As far as the weak mount i concerned, i am sure i can rig something up when i feel like it; just letting others know its kinda weak out of the box... nylon/teflon are meant to be slippery... a toothed washer might be a better choice... I'll figure it out if i feel like it; just letting others know that out of the box the hinging mechanism iss a bit weak for this weight of the microscope.

author: rfclown
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 01:23:28 am
content: I use Bausch & Lomb Stereozoom 4 with 10x wide field objectives and fluorescent ring lights. I've used these for many years. I bought mine off eBay for <$200 including stand and objectives. I've not gotten boom stands (out of laziness and desk space). When my original B&L fluorescent blub broke, I found it was MUCH cheaper to buy an inexpensive Chinese ring light (which even came with an extra blub). I prefer fluorescent to LED ring lights. You have to have a thing (adapter?) to screw into the bottom of the scope to hold the ring light.I have other objectives and a 0.5x Barlow, but I don't ever use them. The 0.7-3.0 zoom with 10x serves me well. Shown in the picture is a board I put together tonight so you can see the working distance. Parts on it are SOT-23, 0805, 0603, 0402. I only do 0201 when I have to. The scope can handle it, but my 60+ year old hands are challenged.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 07:24:04 am
content: Quote from: pcm81 on September 03, 2025, 11:30:40 pmSuppose youcouldscrew an 0.5X lens onto a 1X lens. Wouldn't that put the 0.5X lens too far from the main objectives?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 10:15:11 pm
content: Quote from: rfclown on September 04, 2025, 01:23:28 amGreat deal, but that eyepiece angle would destroy my neck.

author: rfclown
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2025, 10:22:04 pm
content: Quote from: thm_w on September 04, 2025, 10:15:11 pmI didn't see that the picture was rotated. That's funny.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2025, 07:51:06 am
content: The Stereozoom 4 was a really workhouse. Are those tubes perhaps 60° above horizontal? Over time, microscope eyepiece tubes dipped more and more toward horizontal: 45° in 1980s, 45–30° in 1990s, and not unusually30-0° today. 45° is still quite common.

author: rfclown
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2025, 03:17:42 pm
content: Quote from: jfiresto on September 07, 2025, 07:51:06 amI have four of these, bought a various times from eBay, and they are all 55 degrees above horizontal. I also have a Stereozoom 7 (which someone gave me), and it is 40 degrees. Never thought about the angle. I like these scopes.