Hantek DSO1200 Handheld DEAD - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2014, 01:52:25 am
content: Hi all.A good mate has the above 200 MHz 2 Ch scopemeter. Around 5 years old and his portable goto unit. Dead as a door nail.He is quite capable of back engineering it but I thought I would post and see if anybody in EEVblog land has a schematic or has had similar problems and could point us in the right direction. That would save a lot of time.Yes battery OK, backlight check done (bright torch), and other standard checks done.It is of 3 PCB construction with the 2 main PCB's stacked with a multi pin connector linking them.In the process of acquiring matching connectors to build an extender cable, then I have plenty of fine Siglent test gear to then check it with.So if you can point us in the direction of schematics please.

author: tinhead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2014, 09:27:13 am
content: There are no any Hantek's schematics available (except these i have drawn, but they not for DSO1200 Handheld).Wondering a bit, i know DSO1200 and DSO12xxB/V from Hantek, but none of them is multiboard. It is always one huge PCB with DMM\DSO on it, separate keyboard and separate display.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2014, 10:25:09 am
content: Quote from: tinhead on May 28, 2014, 09:27:13 amTo be honest I have not yet seen it apart but I will go around for a look when his extender cable is made.The need for the extender cable was so it could be powered and all sides of the PCB's where accessible for probing etc. My buddy said it was not possible to check/trace all button and IC functionality without a cable.Thanks for your posttinhead

author: tinhead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2014, 11:14:35 am
content: the biggest "problem" with DSO1200 is amount of parts and tools necessary to do deep check. The DMM is using own supply, one can test it with separate power source and check the data coming from (it is FS9922). Near DMM chip there is an MCU, if i'm not wrong it was an STM something. There is JTAG port near that MCU, so esy to check if it's working. Then there is another MCU (using 24MHz crystal, 24ssop) - markings removed of course, but this is usb device so easy to check. There is an FPGAs (with heatsink). It seems to run NIOS i think, at least it does have separate SRAM (2x 256Kx8) for what so ever reason, and it does use shared SDRAM. There is DSP or ARM in TQFP176, using that shared SDRAM as well (64Mb SDRAM). When one look exactly, there are some JTAG ports here and there so not a big deal to check function of all that ICs (it is good that Hantek likes to have JTAG's easy accessible).All power rails can be easily checked, typical Hantek configuration are bunch of TI ICs, with some 0R at the end of each supply (so one can easily remove them and check supply with no load).If all that things are ok and still nothing on display, i would say check that NOR memory. All other parts, even that one FPGA are not really important, one will get still something on screen (as long they not shorting rails or bus)

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2014, 11:39:56 am
content: Thanks for the overview. It will be useful.Nearly all the IC's have been "scrubbed", so very few clues remain.QuoteThat is good tip, thanks.One of the things that surprised/annoyed us there is apparently no regulation for the Li battery charging.Or did we miss something?

author: tinhead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2014, 11:56:15 am
content: Quote from: tautech on May 28, 2014, 11:39:56 amthis is chinese product, there will be an LED and one resistor for thatno, seriously, check U3 and U25 on top. Other power rail parts are U18 (TPS54286) / U19 (no idea) on bottom. As well Q18/Q19/u1/u2 combination near power jack. U24 und U5 are probably for some extra voltages, -12V, -8V etc.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2014, 12:12:26 pm
content: Thankstinhead.You've given us enough to start with and we will work though it and maybe/hopefully not bother you later.

author: tinhead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2014, 10:20:44 pm
content: still fighting?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2014, 12:27:49 am
content: Quote from: tinhead on July 13, 2014, 10:20:44 pmMy buddy has an industrial control design and build project on that has not let us get back to it in depth.He has the extender cables made now.Cursing it as he has had to lug his CRT scope around for his project (lots of critical timing).But he should get back to it while he is waiting for PCB's to arrive.Thanks for your concern tinhead.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2014, 08:04:24 pm
content: @ tinheadBeen watching WanaGo's threads re Hantek HH's and a question if I may?You have described hardware versions, do you know of the differences between the HW versions?As they might be relevant to this thread.Thanks.

author: tinhead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2014, 10:39:06 pm
content: no, i don't know the diff between these 3 revisions os DSO1000S models, but believe me, they not relevant to DSO1000 models (as they complettly different, oh well, except enclosure which is why ppl think they similar - but they not, not even a bit).

author: vinayst
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2015, 03:59:48 pm
content: We have a 14 months old DSO1062BV that wont start, when we connect it to battery or Power adapter. All it does is make a "TRRRRK" chatter under the cans.This Unit was earlier repaired under warrenty for the same issue and checked after repair to be running OK, now it has not been used in last 4 months and has developed the same issue.Any idea where to start since the dealer is absolutely useless and will not honor his own repair warrenty and is pretty useless.Thanks for any pointer towards repairing the sameVinay