hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
T12 based Solder pen inbuilt tempreg. DC 12-24V 75W. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MT
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2018, 04:27:38 am
content: Anyone bought this, thoughts? Kinda dirt cheap, only 10 bucks with temp reg built in pen. Field use, car/boat etc.https://www.banggood.com/T12-DC-12-24V-75W-Adjustable-Thermostatic-Electric-Soldering-Iron-Soldering-Station-with-T12-K-Tip-p-1089885.html?rmmds=search&ID=47745&cur_warehouse=CN

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2018, 02:25:01 am
content: I'm sure but I guess, this probably is an open loop PWM, does not control temperature only power via PWM

author: MT
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2018, 03:24:04 am
content: Quote from: ebclr on December 18, 2018, 02:25:01 amOne buyer reported:QuoteShould'nt that suggest the simplest regulating loop by sensing temp voltage to regulate power via the 358(comparator)? The number of components seams to indicate that to.!?Another buyer posted som pictures of the internals:
'im sure the engineers know what they are doing' knipex degredation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2018, 04:03:44 pm
content: Looks like they moved someones cheese.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2018, 04:07:57 pm
content: I have no idea why they would make the handles expand out more when closed. Its uncomfortable.Supposedly stiffer but you can't get good purchase on it anymore (you don't grip things wider then a damn barbell any better other wise they would make barbels wider lol). Thinner is better. Its cost cutting bullshit to save materials and shipping. And the finish sucks it looks like crappy paint. The chromed ones look cool and clean easy and you can tell if they are dirty easy (they are meant to be used on stuff you want clean and nice so you don't fuck up your work). I like them for gas regulators and compressed gas cylinders.What they did is shit in my cereal I feel pressured to buy a set now (I was gonna do it in the deep future) because I wanted a variety of these including the smallest one. I only have the medium sized one right now and I kinda want a full old set before they are gone

author: JackJones
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2018, 04:17:52 pm
content: I hope it really was the decision of engineers and not sales department.You see this with food stuff all the time, they reduce the package size while keeping the same price. Most people are none the wiser. I can't help but feel it might be the case here too.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2018, 04:28:50 pm
content: there is no way. They sell attachments you put over dumbells and barbells so they are harder to grip (its supposed to build up your forearm muscles or something but their exact effect on the body is dubious). There is no good reason to make a pliers grip wider. Unless its meant for Orcs or something. Yea lets make tools for the beings of azeroth.
correct zip tie tension for wires and cables - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2018, 12:35:54 am
content: I have a panduit zip tie gun and I am wondering what the correct tension to use is.I noticed with teflon wire you don't really have a problem at maximum settings but I was wondering what is allowable for softer insulations like silicone and complex cables and stuff like coaxial cable. Can this gun tie hard enough to damage insulation over long periods of time or can you get away with using maximum for everything so long it makes sense to do so for the application?

author: glarsson
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2018, 07:35:31 am
content: Careful With That coAx, Eugene.A zip tie gun will easily damage coax cables. A company I worked for in the 1980:ies installed several hundred meters of RGB coax in a building. All of it had to be replaced due to ghosting video due to damaged coax (impedance changes where zip ties deformed the coax).

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2018, 08:58:37 am
content: so that means the softest setting where the wire is barely touched (it rips it off before it tightens over the wire because of the bend radius).

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2018, 10:37:00 pm
content: Quote from: glarsson on December 18, 2018, 07:35:31 amAh, the equivalent of the old mechanical torque metric of 'Tighten until the treadsjuststrip and then back off half a turn'.
torque driver and bit fit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2018, 05:26:32 am
content: What kind of additional torque error can be expected from differing bit specifications from manufacturers when you use them as inserts for torque screw drivers?

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2018, 10:14:14 pm
content: I presume you mean differing specs in the 1/4" hex dimensions?I would say none, for the same reason that using extensions and adapters on a square drive torque wrench has no effect either. Play or slack in the tool doesn't have any impact on the torque reading since the tool wont measure any appreciable torque load until that slack is taken up.
Hakko gear question: will an FM2028 handle work with an FM203 power box? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bbass408
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 16, 2018, 02:07:33 am
content: I'm getting mixed messages on the FM2027 vs. FM2028. Most say the former is for the FM203/FM204. The 2028 is for the 951 power supply. But, the FM2027 and the FM2032 are both supposed to work with the 203 and the 951. So, why wouldn't the 2028 work with the 951 and the 203? Hakko product interoperability is becoming a new hobby...
Anyone found good quality USB-to-DC cables? Recommendations? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: anrieff
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 27, 2018, 09:33:54 am
content: Hi,We've created some devices that need to be regularly charged and have a socket for DC barrel jack (5.5 × 2.1mm).It was expected that the users would use wall-warts to charge the devices, but some of them preferred to use USB powerbanks + USB-to-DC cables they found online. Similar to the image (see the attached file).We were investigating slow charging behaviour and it was traced to the crappy USB-to-DC cables. The conductors inside are incredibly thin, in the vicinity of 36AWG or even thinner. Therefore the cable itself has a few ohms of resistance and a lot of the charging power was lost in heating the cable.We want to support this charging scenario. So now I'm tasked to recommend good quality USB-to-DC charging cables, that have more serious conductors and can carry 0.5A without much drop (e.g. if the conductors are 28awg or thicker, that would suffice)Has anyone grappled with this task? Can you recommend good quality cables of that format (USB to 5.5mm/2.1mm)?

author: LaurentR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2018, 06:59:00 am
content: In the US:https://www.adafruit.com/product/2697Claims 22AWG, which is pretty decent.I am sure you can find it on Aliexpress, but guaranteeing the gauge might be a challenge.

author: anrieff
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 28, 2018, 07:30:34 am
content: Nice find, LaurentR!Yes, as you state the hard part would be to find Aliexpress option that is both cheap and decent quality. 22AWG is an overkill in our case actually. I was kinda hoping for some Ali* shopping options that someone had experience withBut this is a good safe option. I'm forwarding it to the clients, many thanks!

author: anrieff
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 14, 2018, 02:27:34 pm
content: Just to report, the Adafruit cables finally arrived and they perform as advertised. I don't see any noticeable voltage drop when I run 0.5A over them. So probably 22AWG indeed.
very interesting power tool safety video  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2018, 09:15:30 pm
content: The angle grinder experiments in the beginning I have seen before, but check out the table saw video.When I was experimenting with table saw and learning safety my experiment was just to throw wood ontop of it when i was standing off to the side to see the power. But he fixed a pipe to it and it is able to shoot a dowel so it goes through sheet metal and gets stuck in the ground to significant depth some where around 50 feet away.I thought some of his videos were very irritating and stupid but I appreciate learning why not to be a slack ass with work practice.I was thinking alot about the merits of owning a smaller table saw (like a proxxon) when a big one is available, and I think the answer is yes, for cutting smaller stuff safer.also the chain saw angle grinder thing people make is just dumb. I wonder what would happen there if the chain broke and it decided to track the wheel. Good bye hands.
IDC crimp tool - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: djacobow
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2018, 05:13:47 am
content: Tired of using pliers/vice to half-ass connectors onto IDC cable. Would like to get a proper tool. $15.95 "Amazon's choice" tool looks pretty sketchy. Apparently the plastic bits that hold the connector halves fall off and get lost.Is there something that is a bit of a step up that is not a "professional quality/price tool?"

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2018, 07:02:09 am
content: There are cheap (sub $100) IDC specific pliers, and Panavise does the cheapest press that I'm aware ofYou obviously want something affordable but whats your actual budget?

author: djacobow
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2018, 03:55:15 pm
content: Quote from: RobertHolcombe on December 07, 2018, 07:02:09 amOh, I was thinking like $75. $100 isn't too bad.

author: rhodges
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2018, 12:50:48 am
content: It's been a while, but when I was making SCSI cables, I used an arbor press from Harbor Freight.

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2018, 03:38:17 pm
content: The $16 tools are awkward and annoying to use. I would prefer a decent smooth-jawed vise to one of those.The Panavise press is nice, but close to $250 by the time you add their IDC tooling. You can get by without a lot of it, but at the very least you'll need to add some sort of platten and spreader plate to the base $150 press. An alternative is a $60 Harbor Freight arbor press plus some bits you make yourself, so I guess it depends on the tools you have available and how much you feel your time is worth.
YIHUA 853D+ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Be4stElectrjc
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 14, 2018, 08:34:18 pm
content: Hi, does someone have this one or another similar product from YIHUA and can put a good word on it?Thanks

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2018, 10:42:58 pm
content: Hi Be4stElectrjc,i have owned one of these for many years and it has proven to be a very reliable soldering station.For more information just search the forum pages, there is a lot of info regarding this unit on here.Regards
937D+ Hakko Clone Glows Red Hot Problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nation
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 07, 2018, 03:04:00 am
content: Dear AllThe heating element on my 937D+ broke so I order a replacement iron. This is what happens when I plug the new iron into the station:- The temperature gauge on the station stays at 1.- The iron heats up quickly as usual but doesn't stop at the set temperature. It continues to heat until it glows red.- The temperature gauge on the station slowly starts increasing a few digits at a time.Is this a problem with the iron handle or the station?I suspect it may some sort of problem with the wiring on the handle being mixed up and came across the video below where the guy starts talking at 50 seconds about the pinouts on the iron. Could this be my problem?

author: .rpv
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2018, 04:02:52 am
content: There are 2 variants for that 907 handle, one with thermocouple and one with a ptc as temp sensing method, on the video says that the heater resistance it's 14ohms and for the thermocouple it's 2 ohms (it should be less, it's basically a short); for the second variant the resistance of the heater it's around 4ohms and the ptc resistance it's around 40ohms at room temp (it will change with temp, so you can expect more resistance). So maybe you are using the wrong handle for your station.

author: nation
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 07, 2018, 12:05:10 pm
content: Thanks .rpv. You're probably right, wrong handle. Someone in the comments section of the video said they had a similar problem. Wonder if there's any modification to this new handle I can do to make it work?

author: .rpv
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2018, 11:06:48 pm
content: Quote from: nation on December 07, 2018, 12:05:10 pmYou can buy just the ceramic element which includes the temp sensor and replace it on your handle. For the ptc based element it's the model A1321 (cost around 2-3usd con aliexpress/ebay), but I haven't idea what's the thermocouple based model is.You need to be sure what's the element that you station requires, on the hakko webpage says that the 936 station uses the ptc based one (A1321) but who knows on the clone, the easy way it's using a multimeter on the handle that your station includes and try to check the resistance of the temp sensor: 2ohm or less (probably more close to zero) it's a thermocouple one, 40ohm or more it's a ptc one.
Bits and adapters for impact drivers on sale at HD. (US of A) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: shteii01
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2018, 02:26:12 am
content: Makita ImpactX:https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Power-Tool-Accessories-Drill-Bits-Driving-Bits/N-5yc1vZc267/Ntk-tagger/Ntt-impactx?NCNI-5&isSearch=true&Ns=P_REP_PRC_MODE%7C0
Fake LM2596HV again? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Urs42
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 03, 2018, 08:22:41 am
content: I guess you can't expect too much for $1.46. The linked modules did work with 30V but it didn't like 50V...https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-DC-Converter-Adjustable-Power-Supply-DC-DC-Step-Down-3A-LM2596HVS-LM2596HV-DC-Step-Down/32485142548.html

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2018, 10:50:32 pm
content: What output current?Is there any chance it spiked above 50V, what is the source?They seem to be re-made by some chinese manufacturers, guess the demand is high:http://hmsemi.com/downfile/LM2596HV.PDFI had a boost board recently where I assumed the MT3608 was fake as the adjustment wasn't working initially, but oddly ended up being a layout issue.

author: tsman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2018, 11:05:40 pm
content: Pretty sure all of those modules are counterfeit. They're all sold for less than the bulk pricing of the chip alone. The switching frequency is far lower and they've got a tendency to die with an input to output hard short so wave goodbye to anything downstream from this.The logo is for NatSemi and they got bought out by TI in 2011. I can't even find a datasheet for a LM2596HVS. It is just endless listings for these modules and chip supplier databases.
Recommendation for outlet strip with surge protection? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: 0xdeadbeef
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2018, 05:09:11 pm
content: I have several Belkin SurgeMaster Gold (F9G726DE3M-GRY) power outlet strips for stuff like TV, stereo, projector and the like but now the switches on some of them start to fail.Until now, they were reliable and I like the form factor a lot (flat, 2x4 outlets so they couldn't topple over).Unfortunately, they are obviously not produced anymore and Belkin now seems to offer only stuff with much lesser technical specs. E.g. 900J absorbed energy instead of 3240J.So the price for the remaining SurgeMaster units has exploded and easily reaches 80€ now which is about twice of what I'd like to pay (and have paid in the past).So I'm looking for alternatives with similar design and specs from a company with some reputation min the 30-50€ range. Surprisingly, there doesn't seem to be that much of a selection as I thought.Actually, only the APC PL8VT3 (which also seems to be discontinued) and the APC PM8 seem to come close to what I want (2x4 outlets, >2000J absorbed).Are there any brands with good reputation that I overlooked?

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2018, 07:37:12 pm
content: Can't you just have decent spark gaps and voltage monitoring installed in your distribution box if you really care about it.

author: 0xdeadbeef
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2018, 09:21:02 pm
content: Nope

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2018, 09:26:19 pm
content: Quote from: 0xdeadbeef on December 02, 2018, 05:09:11 pmDo you mean the on/off switch failing?

author: 0xdeadbeef
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2018, 09:42:00 pm
content: Yup. But they're also kinda old. Like ten years or so. And I'm not sure if MOVs and all really age that well.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2018, 02:34:59 am
content: If these were mine, I would take one part and examine how much it costs to replace the switch and MOVs.My guess is that it would be less than $5 USD for the switch and MOVs per protector.I have one surge protector, only 2 years old, at home where the on/off switch has failed. Luckily it failed on so I'm just using it like that right now for some non important thing. Not motivated enough yet to take apart and replace the switch.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2018, 03:53:07 am
content: I have one Belkin, the rest are APC. They all seem to work fine. I hardly ever use the switches on them though.

author: 0xdeadbeef
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2018, 07:12:07 pm
content: I would consider replacing the switches if I had the faintest hope I could buy 100% fitting switches. Then again, I somewhat fear this is totally hopeless.Anyway, I might be able to get a few SurgeMasters for a good price, so maybe I can postpone the inevitable.
I bet you thought that HP stood for a well known American brand? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ralphrmartin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2018, 12:32:44 pm
content: Well, not necessarily....https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HoldPeak-HP-890CN-LCD-Digital-Multimeter-DMM-with-NCV-Detector-DC-AC-Voltage-Current-Meter-Resistance/32610159661.html
JBC MS-A desoldering pump - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: chamod
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2018, 09:52:52 pm
content: We have a set of of JBC tools at work, including a DDE (2 tool module), hot air station and a pre heater. We also have a MS-A desoldering pump, but no associated DI(single tool ) control module.Would there be any way to get the MS-A working without spending 500$ on DI control module? We already have a slot free on the two tool controller DE, and I think functionally DDE is very close to two DI modules.DI:https://www.jbctools.com/di-1-tool-control-unit-product-155-gama-6-category-6.htmlDDE:https://www.jbctools.com/dde-2-tools-control-unit-product-919-gama-6-category-6.htmlMS-A:https://www.jbctools.com/ms-a-electric-desoldering-module-for-di-product-160-gama-6-category-6.html

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2018, 03:49:23 am
content: Don't see why you would need anything more than the desoldering tool and associated standDI/DDE/DME all do the same thing just have more ports, MSA attaches to any control unit, then the tool and stand connect to the MSA

author: chamod
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2018, 04:24:43 am
content: I managed to get the tool to heat up, but I don't have a port to provide power to the MSA pump module. DDE peripheral port is different from that of the MSA. I have attached the photos of the backs of the units.

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2018, 05:46:41 am
content: Yeah right, I just checked, seems odd but there is a MS-A and MSE-A, the later is compatible with DDE/DMEGuess that compatibility change occurred when they shifted the multi tool control units to the new type display

author: chamod
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2018, 09:15:13 pm
content: Yeah that looks like the reason. I couldn't find any information about their connectors/pinouts either. Looks like that MSA is going to go back to the drawer.
Need help to identify chinese relay board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: groggen
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2018, 02:45:00 pm
content: Hello,I have bought some componets from chinese sellers and one of them (I don't know which one) has sent me a relay board that I have not ordered. I have no idea what this board does, but it would be interesting to find out. Can anyone recognize this board or read the 4 chinese characters on the inputs to identify what they read? The outputs come from the relay so they are fairly obvious. The board is double-sided, but has no components on the rear side. There is one SOP8 of type STC 15W100 which I believe is a MCU and a LED and a pushbutton. Any help appreciated. Many thanks.

author: tsman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2018, 01:56:40 pm
content: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fmysku.ru%2Fblog%2Faliexpress%2F57734.htmlNot exactly the same model buthttps://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/5V-Single-Bistable-Relay-Module-Modified-Car-start-and-Stop-Self-Locking-Switch-a-key/1089303_32262404807.htmlgives you the labels for the terminals.
chanzon brand - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: LaserTazerPhaser
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2018, 03:58:08 am
content: They provide nice packaging for generic parts such as diodes, bridge rectifiers LED's and some other parts.https://chanzonbuy.aliexpress.com/store/1913069for instance the diodes:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-30-Pcs-MBR4045PT-Schottky-Barrier-Rectifier-Diodes-40A-45V-TO-247-TO-247AD-40/32854450706.htmlgeneric parts and VERY inexpensive given the package. The images depict a datasheet yet could not find a single datasheet and not listed on the generic inexpensive retailer site LCSChttps://lcsc.com/supplierThey seem to simply have neat packaging to resell as much components whilst making them appear fully tested and characterized.
Wife wants to get me a 3d printer for Xmas.  Which one? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Housedad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2018, 07:52:53 am
content: I am a fairly complete noob about 3d printing, but I have talked about the benefits of having one with my wife. She said if I can find one around $500 that is worth a damn, she would be rather open to getting one for me for Xmas. Happy days!The only problem is that I don't even know what ones are decent out there for the price range, so I don't have an idea of where to send her. From looking around the net, I noticed some good reviews of the Crealty CR-10S, but I don't have a lot of time to figure this out completely for her to get this in time for Xmas.What do you folks know about what is a good buy right now? It would be nice to find something that will not be obsolete in a year, and a brand that has a chance of being around for a bit.Thanks

author: Calambres
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2018, 08:19:32 am
content: Ditto!

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2018, 08:47:42 am
content: At that price point I love my CR-10S. It is built square easy to setup and works as claimed. Assembly circa 3 hours being careful. Have a trawl through this thread for some more info and some pics of what I have been crunching outhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/There is a bunch of lookalikes and clones of it around (some slightly cheaper) and plenty of BS reviews on Youtube to go with them from people who got freebies from Gearbest, Bangood etc. of all sorts of garbage they feel inclined to say nice things about to get the next freebie. So take ALL videos with a grain of salt.You will need to go well up in $ to get a significant increase in quality or suffer a reduction in build volume and still be up on $$ (Prusa MK2 or 3 etc).** Don't forget to get some filament with itPLA is great and a roll of PETG for a tougher more heat resistant print is worth it.
Quick 861DW - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nrmodesto
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 28, 2018, 12:17:13 pm
content: Is this station good enough for the price?Are you guys using it?Can I get any one better for the same price?What are your complains about this product?

author: Mr. Scram
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2018, 12:28:05 pm
content: Yes. People report it's flat out better than much more expensive Weller or Hakko stations.Many people here are using it.This station has one of the best bang for buck values. I don't know of anything remotely as good for a similar price.I've seen very few complaints. One broken blower fan and some people report the room's lights may flicker when using the device. That's about it.

author: Skashkash
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2018, 01:22:19 pm
content: I have one. I like it.My only real complaint is that it makes my LED shop lights flicker.

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2018, 12:06:24 pm
content: Quote from: Skashkash on November 28, 2018, 01:22:19 pmSame here, but only one of the LEDs flickers, i solve it by add a external capacitor
Bag to transport my cables - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Jasonbit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2018, 01:05:42 am
content: Hello,I need a bag or something like a case to package my cables oscilloscope and BNC cable (see this image:https://snag.gy/JCy1rD.jpg). How should I googled about this product? Do you suggest any item on Ebay?I intend transport my cable through a way more organize and secure to good heath of my cables.ThanksBest Regards

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2018, 05:19:36 pm
content: Go to a goodwill and look through the purse section to find various nylon zipper containers. For my scopemeter i keep a pouch that was for god knows what, some kind of organizer or something. It was like a trifold but i keep mm probes, scopemeter stuff and a buncha header cable splices, grabbers etc in it.The right way to do this is to find something similar to what you need and learn to sow some pouches and zippers on to suit your equipment.

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2018, 06:27:01 pm
content: I use a zippered typical "beach bag" to contain my DS1054 and inside of that use some zippered cosmetics bags to keep the cables organized and separated.Buy cheap cosmetic bags on Aliexpress. You can get clear ones or colored fabric ones.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2018, 08:46:54 pm
content: I am telling you though, if you get a backpack or something and start sowing custom pockets into it you will feel like a pro

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2018, 06:51:24 am
content: Take a look at these:https://www.amazon.com/tankers-tool-bag/s?page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Atankers%20tool%20bag

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2018, 02:54:55 pm
content: Look also for toiletry bags, shoe bags and travel pouches there is thousands of options.

author: Feral
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2018, 04:41:26 am
content: I recently got one of these and it has been great!It is a BUBM Electronics Travel Organizer.
Stopwatch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DavidDLC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2018, 04:48:18 am
content: I’m not an expert when it comes to stopwatches.I bought a cheap stopwatch and in order to start and stop the time you need to press and release the start/stop button. Press and release to start and press and release to stop.Is there a stopwatch that will start the time when pressing the button, keep the button pressed to count and will stop the time when released ?Any help is appreciatedDavid DLC

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2018, 04:50:50 am
content: It would be trivial to make one with Arduino.

author: DavidDLC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2018, 06:27:43 am
content: I don’t want to make it, I want to buy it.David DLC

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2018, 06:47:07 am
content: In buying a heap of stopwatches over the years for R/C and Kitchen use I have never seen that functionality available. The closest you might come is a Lap/Memory type stopwatch. I have had one of these for over 10 yearshttps://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JEX500-Professional-Athletics-Stopwatch-100-Lap-Memory-Waterproof-Sports-Timer/122341677215?hash=item1c7c21d89f:g:2soAAOSwopRYldFR:sc:AU_StandardDeliveryOther than that if you want dedicated then the best other option is to hack a cheapy with a digital latching circuit of some sort or as suggested already a RTC/Micro type solution.

author: Muttley Snickers
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 30, 2018, 06:51:02 am
content: If all else fails you might be able to find a mobile phone application which meets your requirements, nowadays I tend to use my phones timer and stopwatch functions more than the other gadgets I have due to the bigger display, the larger buttons and I can also do a screen grab for later analysis or collation.

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 30, 2018, 06:51:26 am
content: This unit will do what you describe to a resolution of 20ps.https://www.keysight.com/en/pd-1893420-pn-53230A/350-mhz-universal-frequency-counter-timer-12-digits-s-20-ps?nid=-33609.959902&cc=NZ&lc=engYou’ll just have to plug a switch into it.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2018, 06:53:53 am
content: Quote from: Dubbie on November 30, 2018, 06:51:26 amAll that for the cost of a cheap stopwatch of course?

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 30, 2018, 06:55:26 am
content: All I heard was that his cheap one DIDN’T do the job.....

author: DavidDLC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2018, 07:00:02 pm
content: Thank all, I think there is no such a thing.David DLC
Weird pushbutton footprint - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2018, 04:10:46 pm
content: http://spec_sheets.e-switch.com/specs/P010337.pdfWhy the heck did they put those spurs on it? Just make a standard gull-wing pattern with enough soldering area for everthing...On the upside, it's very low profile, and very available right now. Seems like a reasonable part otherwise.Tim

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2018, 09:34:41 pm
content: For additional strength maybe, pads could tear? But they are so narrow I'm not sure how much it would help.If you are using a lot, its cheaper to tape the dome onto the PCB, but for low volume/cost non issue stuff it seems like a good equivalent.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2018, 10:52:48 pm
content: The spurs seem silly, 0.2mm is not going to pull the part centered with surface tension or add more solder paste.I had bad luck with e-switch samples, I found their plastics can't take heat and they seem to sag after reflow and the spring force plummets. Ends up to be a soft mushy click and I think that brown plastic resin deforms easily. It was a really odd experience; I didn't spec them for production.
Aldi Parkside solder station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gildasd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2018, 02:35:15 pm
content: It was the last one in the bargain bin.The lead is standard PVC but the iron’s lead is silicon.Overall appearance is ok, but it need a good teardown to ID plastics and the real manufacturer.I need to find tips for it as the included flat tip is much too wide.Included solder is 40% lead!(Will add pictures and details when I find a good way to change extensions in an IPhone)

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2018, 05:21:03 pm
content: This previous post may save you some time...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/parkside-plsd-48-a1/msg1339538/#msg1339538If it's not the one with the display, then a forum search for 'Parkside' will bring up the previous one with the knob temperature 'adjustment'.

author: gildasd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2018, 07:00:11 pm
content: Does doing the search on an iPhone using big fingers count as an excuse?I’ll add pictures to the other thread to see if there are any improvements.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2018, 03:52:00 pm
content: Quote from: gildasd on November 02, 2018, 02:35:15 pmYou can’t, there’s no way to do it. Despite the fact that this request has been made by many users many times over the years, the forum admins here haven’t added the.jpegextension (which is actually one of the official extensions for JPEGs, even if.jpgis far more common) to the list of permitted extensions for attachments.The only workarounds are to use Tapatalk or some other third-party photo sharing app.
Behind the scenes of London Underground signalling - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2018, 08:15:51 pm
content: Amazed at the amount of gear used just to get some trains to run...https://youtu.be/nxswnOKi69o

author: LapTop006
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 09, 2018, 07:04:19 am
content: First I thought it odd to see you post that, then I remembered that I thought I saw you at the comedy night they were at back in March. By chance a mate of mine from Perth was also in town to meet with other people working on the Square Kilometre Array, and we'd both picked up tickets to the gig.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2018, 07:23:52 am
content: Quote from: LapTop006 on November 09, 2018, 07:04:19 amYes, I was there

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2018, 09:49:21 am
content: This movie is an excellent demonstration of something that only a few people realize. No matter what country you live in there are a significant number of anonymous buildings where you have no idea of what goes on inside them. They might look like two or three story office blocks but inside it could be a training school for spies, a telecom monitoring centre or the control room for a subway system.The general public have no clue about these places and 'outsiders' are rarely admitted. If you DO end up walking through the door of one of these establishments your only clue before you arrive is your boss telling you to take your passport plus lots of other ID but leave the mobile phone in the van.And no, I'm not going to tell you where I went and what I saw.

author: CJay
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2018, 02:53:23 pm
content: Quote from: German_EE on November 10, 2018, 09:49:21 amHehehehehe, yes, I've been to places that needed passport for ID and had a strict (to the point of being arrested if found in breach) policy of no mobiles on site.
"maker-friendly" or "DIY" cell phones, simple phones, basic phones?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2018, 01:55:34 pm
content: What is the current situation for maker-friendly cell phones? (including phones people make themselves, especially kits?) A few years ago I saw a very nice phone made from a Raspberry Pi for example.It would be great to be able to make my own phone using Raspbian or similar, rather than carry a closed platform for self-surveillance.
Klein Tools Wire Stripper for mm2 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ovis
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 11, 2018, 01:33:34 pm
content: Was looking for insulated terminals crimper and found this fine tool. Then I do a lot of crimping, I use Haupa one (weights about 500 grams). I need lighter one to carry in pocket, so my eye caught this guyKlein-Kurve Long-Nose Wire Stripper/Crimper 1009. I was interesting how would it perform striping wires in mm2. Mostly I need it for 0.75, 1.5, 2.5, 6.0 stranded and 1.5, 2.5, 4.0 solid in mm2 wires. I know that Klein Tools makes some metric strippers, but they are without crimper.Any Klein Tools stripper users in EU?
Issue with a new JBC JTSE-1A Hot Air Station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rickmoll
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 02, 2018, 07:00:44 pm
content: I just purchased a new JTSE-1A Hot Air Station. This is my first JBC purchase and I noticed a small issue with it right after I started using it. I've email JBC about it yesterday. But while I'm waiting for a response, I was wondering if someone else with a JTSE could confirm if this happens for them, or maybe I have a defective unit. The issue is:If I have the Air Flow set down low at 10-11% and with the Temperature set at 350C, the real-time power display can lockup showing 0% power.This only happens if the Air Flow is at 10-11%, if I have the 4mm or 6mm nozzle installed, and if it is starting up after a cool-down (IE the starting temperature is down at around 100C or lower). Under those conditions, at startup the temperature ramps up to about 50-70C overshoot (IE up to about 400-420C), and the Power Display then drops down to 0% and stays locked at 0%. This appears to only be a problem with the displayed power. The temperature will stay right at the set-point of 350C, so the power is obviously not 0%.This will also happen if I'm in Graphics Mode.The only way to clear this condition is to put the hand-piece into cool down mode for 10 seconds or so, and then hit the start button again.If someone with a JTSE could check if this does, or doesn't happen for them, I would be most appreciative.Thanks,Rick

author: niner_007
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2018, 01:45:55 pm
content: Did you update the firmware?

author: JackJones
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2018, 02:13:28 pm
content: I do recall reading something similar. I don't remember where I did though, but I'm pretty sure it was some JBC hot air station that had the same problem.I'll try to find it again.Edit: Didn't notice this was a week old thread. I might be thinking of this post actually..

author: rickmoll
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 10, 2018, 04:15:09 pm
content: From what I can see on the JBC website, it has the current firmware: 8886203I've also since used a JBC TESE which is the hot air station with the small "Precision" handpiece; and it has the same behavior if I put a really small nozzle on it. It's not clear on the JBC website, but the TESE "appears" to use the same control unit that the JTSE uses, and they both have the same firmware.So it sure seems to be a firmware bug.The unit seems to otherwise be working fine. It's just annoying to spend that much on a piece of equipment and then find bugs in the firmware literally within minutes of playing with it. I would of expected better from JBC.
is softened leather suitable for gluing? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2018, 01:40:59 am
content: I have some hard leather from an ancient leather equipment case. I want to cut and reuse it (the bag is worthless).I read you can soften it by soaking oil into it.After you soften it, is this type of leather gluable?

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2018, 06:20:53 am
content: Tough question. The oil you use to soften the leather will kill adhesion with almost any adhesive. But the very porous back surface of most leathers would allow a mechanical bond with adhesives such as hot glues, epoxies and such. You could also go the route of softening the leather, forming it to your needs and then cleaning the oil off/out of the glued surface with appropriate detergents and solvents. This would simulate the condition of most new leathers. Then the spray on adhesives designed for upholstery should work fine. Find them at auto parts shops.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2018, 05:51:32 pm
content: Lol actually i soaked it in water because i realized it was glued to cardboard and then scrubbed it hard with a metal brillo then cut a oversized peice and dried it in a toaster oven for a while at like 60c measured w thermocouple.It was good enough for my application. I had no idea they glued it to cardboard so i thought i would need to boil it in a vat of oil or something.Its just for a pressure roller for tape. I glued it to copper sheet epoxied over a cast lead cylinder and sanded clean. Rubber cement worjed fine for joining the leather to the sanded copper. Hammered out a handle out of some steel rod and bonded it to a wood handle. Fuck you 30$ 3m roller lol. I would have used rubber but on projects like this i make em out of junk and glue thats going bad to save money.
Batronix BX48 - Universal Programmer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2012, 02:02:53 am
content: Does anybody have any experience using the BX48-I or BX48-II Universal Programmer? It apparently supports over 50,000 IC's, but I already have programmers for PIC (PICKit 2) and Atmel (AVR Dragon, and AVR ONE!), and I'm not sure how common the other IC's are. I mostly program with AVR, but their usefulness is quickly becomming inadequate for the projects I'd like to work on. My fear with purchasing the programmer mentioned above is that it won't support newer devices (ARM, TI Wolverine/Blackfin, FPGA's...). I notice it doesn't support Xilinx and Altera FPGA's which I find particularly annoying since I use those frequently and they are quite popular so I see no reason why they aren't supported (can it not handle JTAG?)Anyways, if anybody has any information on them, or another universal programmer that's better or cheaper, please let me know. For those who don't know what I'm talking about, here is a link to the product page:http://www.batronix.com/shop/programmer/BX48/index.html

author: aghp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2012, 08:11:35 am
content: Old thread but I have same question:Anybody have experience with Batronix BX48 Batego II?Quality of HW, Quality of softwares etc.What other name and model is same or better in this price class?Specially now I need make some copy of old UV-Eproms, NVRAMs and of course then some more new chips sometimes.In specs this Batronix seems quite good in its price class and just more reliable and professional than some cheap chinese...I'm happy about all experience about this Batronix model or some other name equivalents in same price class.

author: tulipman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 17, 2014, 01:02:25 pm
content: Hi there,Didn't see any reply on the Batronix question, but I am using Batronix programmers DAILY, and they are incredible innovative and versatile. Software is great, AND: the support from this German company is absolutely GREAT.I had an EPROM that was NOT in the database, and in 1 hour or so, they ADDED it to the database, and I was able to read-out that special EPROM. Mention one company that does this for their customers!!The Batronix BX48 can also detect defective pins and resistance, so a real hardware check of any eprom.It programs PLD, SPLD, EPLD, GAL, PALCE, and also microcontrollers.Even for tuning car-engines that are controlled by EPROM based firmware, there is an incredible add-on file that enables you to finetune a car-engine. Really amazing device.If people are interested in a BATEGO BX48, I have a couple of them, and I am willing to sell one of them for peeps that are really interested, of course for a very interesting price.....Let me know.Rgdstulipman / PA3BKL

author: haiderwa
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 08, 2018, 01:45:13 pm
content: Do you still have the Batronix BX48 - Universal Programmer for sale?
Why ebay panel meters so SLOW? Or not? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: 001
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2018, 03:29:38 pm
content: I try few panel voltmeters from ebaybut all of them are SLOW!!! Only 1-2 readings per second. One unit indicate random symbols for few seconds after powering upWhere I can buy good but not expensive panel voltmeters?

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2018, 01:59:11 pm
content: Panel meters are not the same as multimeters. A slower update rate is normal. Many are based on the old Intersil 7206/7207 chips which had a standard update rate of 2-3 times per second. Garbage characters on the display is not normal, though the first reading or two appearing on power up may not accurate.

author: schmitt trigger
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2018, 02:06:54 pm
content: What the poster above said.Inexpensive meters I have seen employ a variant of the 7106/7107 device, an early-1980s era IC.Surprisingly good design for its time, it had many good attributes. Speed was not one of them.Also, if I recall correctly, it uses the dual slope integration ADC technique, which is very good at rejecting noise, but low speed.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2018, 02:59:50 pm
content: my china-cheap voltmeter modules almost similar tothis(seems like a newer model, mine is older version) are based on arm STM8S103F2P6 chip, same slow 2fps update rate. maybe reprogramming it is a good idea.

author: 001
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2018, 09:34:38 pm
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on October 26, 2018, 02:59:50 pmYea$1 ebay meters based on stupid mc`s7107 circuits are far fasterYou can use it in 6-10 readings per second mode. Simply decrease time cap valueAnd 7107 meters are 10x EXPENSIVE at ebay

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2018, 11:24:06 pm
content: The ones I got are run with PICs. They're about as accurate as I expected, at least worth having about as many digits as they do (4.5 digit, with the last one being pretty drifty with respect to temperature). Sampling and averaging isn't very good, they don't deal with intermittent loads very well (the reading bounces back and forth). Pro: I got what I paid for. Con: I got what I paid for.Those particular displays came from Ali but they're probably all over eBay too. The more common ones seem to be 3 digit, is that what you're talking about?If you want something more traditional, maybe finding a vintage domestic/brand-name part would do.And yeah, displays are pricey. Particularly, if you want to get very picky with them, the cost goes up exponentially. Such is the cost of vanity, in a sense.Tim