Dead Graphics card. 780TI. Dead Mosfet perhaps? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2017, 06:09:42 pm
content: Hey. First of all i am a brand new member here, and i hope i am doing things right here in my first post.I've had a Dead GTX 780TI for quite a while now. i had a post on a completely different forum where we ended up with me having to test the mosfets and then the person helping me dissapared after saying so.So here i am, months later hoping someone could help me figure out how i am supposed to test these mosfets.I simply googled "Electronics expert forum" And here i am.Info:Name: 780ti Palit JetstreamModel: NE5X78TH10FB-1100JSymptoms:So to make it simply.I added 200% on the power limit and clicked apply. (Possible thanks to a Custom GPU bios)Fan speed went to 100%1 of 3 screens went black and the one with MSI Afterburner (Overclocking software) froze to let me see my terrible mistake for a couple seconds.and the pc shut down after that.As i understand, just doing this shouldn't have killed it, though that was the last seconds of its life.I managed to flash the bios back to my backup by unplugging the power cables to the GPU itself and turning on the pc using a second GPU to get image.Even tho it was a successful flash, if i have the power in before i start up my pc the fans are instantly set to 100% and the 780ti is not recognized. So nothing changed.The section:The mosfets:And the things next to them:This is the mosfet right if i am not mistakenhttp://www.vishay.com/docs/63788/sic780.pdfWould be really nice to know if these were dead or if something else is the reason of the card's death and a possible fix.Thanks in advance!EDIT: If i turn on the pc with the GPU andWithoutInternal power connected (PCI 8x2) It will print a message on the screen "Please power down and connect the pcie power cable(s) for this graphics card"

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2017, 09:08:12 pm
content: Use a multimeter ohm range, probe across the 2 pads of the 8 Sic780s, which of them are the lowest of ohms?

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 08:32:47 am
content: >EDIT: If i turn on the pc with the GPU and Without Internal power connected (PCI 8x2) It will print a message on the screen "Please power down and connect the pcie power cable(s) for this graphics card"External power, internal is thru PCIE. This is a good sign!Measure between pins landing on a pad with U12 printed on(lower left) and the ones marked red in lower right corner of the chip.I suspect one of the mosfets is shorted between Vin and ground, and luckily its the one powered from external socket = you can still boot without external power and get usable picture with "please plug blabla" message.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 10:38:32 am
content: Quote from: Armadillo on February 27, 2017, 09:08:12 pmWith my multimeter set at (200 ohm reading) I get 5.1-5.2 on all the chips no matter what configuration of From pin-To pin i choose.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 10:52:14 am
content: Sic780 seems OK.With the multimeter ohm range, all the 4901NF you can find [power mosfet], measure the pads as shown, which ones have the lowest of reading?

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 12:35:40 pm
content: Quote from: Armadillo on February 28, 2017, 10:52:14 amseems to be ram supply rails, and they have to work for the GPU "please plug external blabla" message to appear.Edit: 3rd Edit: if you look closely at the pcb 4 bottom Sic780s are supplied from PCIE connector - those are finenext 3 from the right external power, upper Sic780 and bottom 4901NF is supplied by left external supplyhttps://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/Palit-GeForce-GTX-780-Ti-JetStream-3GB-GDDR5-(NE5X78TH10FBJ)-PCB_54863.jpghttp://gecid.com/data/video/201404241300-5413/img/08_palit_ne5x780h10fb-1100j.jpgso bottom 4901NF, or one of 4 upper Sic780 has to be broken....oooooor external power sensing is broken. This card requires BOTH external connectors to be plugged, otherwise it will act just as described (all fans full tilt + no boot).btw mosfets can be fried full open too+ controllers also die, so if you cant find a short you will have to measure on powered card and look at the gates and outputs of every single transistor (with a scope)

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 02:04:39 pm
content: Quote from: Armadillo on February 28, 2017, 10:52:14 amWell there are two of these chips. And they mesure different.But i realized some of them mesure different from where i put my black and red probes. some areThese are theTop power mosfetThese are theBottom power mosfetI am trying to mesure from the two other pictures you posted but they are up and down everywhere o.O

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 02:17:07 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on February 28, 2017, 08:32:47 amQuote from: Rasz on February 28, 2017, 12:35:40 pmInteresting, first, you ment like this right?and i would test like this on all four top SIC780's?EDIT: If so, Most gives 3.3 or 3.0 measured with 20k on my multimeter. Some configurations gave 0.00 but so did all the others in the same configurations.Now the 4901NF confuses me a bit aswell. the two 4901NF's do act different in mesurements as showed futher up.I am sorry if some of the info i am giving is wrong or weird. I really am not good at this sort of stuff but i will be able to get someone to change parts like this if needed without paying a ton. Which they wanted if they had to test stuff. idk why.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 02:44:08 pm
content: Emm!... don't seems like dead short to me.... before we conclude the GPU,......the external power, where does it come from? was it rated to do 200% overclocking of GPU? How many devices are shared?Let' hear it from Rasz, before we try few things.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 02:55:09 pm
content: The powers supply used was a Corsair AX760 I would not think this was a problem. I have also tried the 780ti on 3 different motherboards. The psu has been tested with the 2 other PCI outputs (modular PSU) and tested on other GPU's no problem at all.I have however tried to turn on the pc, then connect various psu cables to the GPU (780TI) Where it seemt like the x2 from the 6x2 made it do its 100% spin and not boot of death behaviour.EDIT: The current gpu being used does NOT use the x2 from the 6x2 pins though.... It uses 2x6 pins. This couldn't possibly mean anything could it?I could test again to see exactly which connected cables makes it do its death dance.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 03:15:13 pm
content: Please try the various combination BUT BUT on mundane clock only < 100%, no overclocking.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 03:25:46 pm
content: I will try it a in a few hours then! It has stock bios and no way of overclocking as far as i am aware so it should be fine

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 08:06:42 pm
content: Quote from: Armadillo on February 28, 2017, 03:15:13 pmThe results are in. Note that for some reason some configurations rarely doesn't make the gpu freak out every time, but after 1-2 tries it freaks out and then it sticks like that. The ones labeled CalmNeverfreaked out.imgur was down so lets try imageshack:https://imageshack.com/a/u2Ul/1EDIT: Also i was not able to get it recognized at all. even trugh nvflash listing. I do think last time i got it recognized because i used a separate GPU on the side and not the IGPU (cPU Graphics)EDIT#2: Added a missing pic to the album on imageshack.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 09:43:32 pm
content: I am thinking;The 780TI needs minimum 600W at current rating at least 42 amps at 12V. Considering the corsair AX760 rated 760W continuous, so I think the PS, that's about it, not to power anything else power hungry stuff... I think only plug into the 2 X [4 + 4] CPU slots of the corsair taking in only 12 V.But regardless, why it is not recognise at all? emm....... not recognise freeze up the pc.Some experts here may provide better advise;

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 09:49:51 pm
content: Quote from: Armadillo on February 28, 2017, 09:43:32 pmTbh those numbers from vendors are with the whole system and usually (always) a bit oversaturated Go to 1min in vid780ti +some on a 450W

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 09:58:30 pm
content: It is really unfortunate, I really thought it would be a dead mosfet. How would it act if a cap was dead you think? These caps don't seem like the ones that blow when they die?

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2017, 10:01:24 pm
content: Lets hope, Maybe Rasz. I really appreciate your time spent on this Armadillo.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2017, 01:54:39 am
content: Quote from: Sikator on February 28, 2017, 02:17:07 pmyes, but remember this is view from the bottom = mirroredQuote from: Sikator on February 28, 2017, 02:17:07 pmthere is only one configuration, pins are either PGND or VIN, see attachment3 ohm between Vin and ground is BAD, Kohms sounds better - this would keep raising as the caps are being chargedThere should be around ~1 ohm between SW and ground, this is GPU resistance thru the coil. I dont know the exact resistance of 780TI chip, and am too lazy to power down my own computer to check, but the GTX260 that just happens to sit next to me is 0.8 ohm, while GTS450 is 2 ohm, so expect something low, but not zero. GTX 1080 is <0.1 ohm so requires very good multimeter (perhaps even bench meter and 4 wire setup).Quote from: Sikator on February 28, 2017, 02:17:07 pmthats because top one is supplied from PCIE, and the bottom one from external connector, different cap configurations etc. Your measurements make no sense without units, there is no way they are all in ohms + Armadillo made you measure supply rails, not the output ;-). Output of 4901NF is on the bottom, you have to measure directly on the coil, or on that small black capacitor on its left (while looking at the card like inhttps://3dnews.ru/assets/external/illustrations/2014/03/27/814253/11_pal78ti_pcb_big.jpg)http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/NTMFD4901NF-D.PDFhttp://imageshack.com/i/plLbI9fKjhttp://imageshack.com/i/poZSBIA8jare same picture different subtitle ;-)Lets start from the top. measure 3 fuses, the yellow/brown elements marked R or X, L16 L17 L18 I think, and R51 R52 R53 power monitoring resistors. While you are at it measure all the coils (grey cubes).Then stick black probe on the metal bracket of the card or blue GND on my attachment and measure SIC780 Vin and SW with red probe in resistance mode. Pay attention to the units (ohms or Kohms), and if the reading is immediately stable or rising.btw you dont have to plug those small x2 power connectors, at least not in the connector closer to the gpu, photos on the net show most Palit 780s dont even have full 8x4 socket there.https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/Palit-GeForce-GTX-780-Ti-JetStream-3GB-GDDR5-(NE5X78TH10FBJ)-PCB_54863.jpgedit: older cards I have on hand all detected external plug by checking middle ground pinJust for reference GTX 260 will print same message with no external power and will start with full tilt fans and black screen/no boot when it fails to detect both power connectors. I used to run it with only one plugged + paperclip shorting middle ground to its neighbor in the empty external power socket because my power supply had only one 6x2 plug. I do not recommend thatvery prone to frying whole computer by accidentYour card doesnt seem to use same detection method and instead measures power drawn from external sockets.Either one of the mosfets in the middle is shorting supply,or one rail went completely open, or its a fried driver, or fuse, or power resistor, lots of stuff might of went bad. But getting the message with no external power means GPU and RAM are fine and card is fixable.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2017, 07:57:01 am
content: Quote from: Rasz on February 28, 2017, 08:32:47 amWe did suspected a direct short between Vin and ground, but I think it's a positive move, a way forward to suspect the switch as you have described.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2017, 03:41:51 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 01, 2017, 01:54:39 amWhile my multimeter was set to 200M (i don't know exactly how these numbers make eachother. in that case 1 would be 1mohm i guess?)L16 and L17 measured 1.0 Mohms? in any orientation and L18 measured 1.1 Mohms? on both but with red on the right it kept going. highest i saw was 88.0 Mohms? still with multimeter set to 200M. like in this pic:the chokes also measured 1.0All of these above were measured alone (just one component)If you wanted me to measure in any of the other ohm options on my multimeter then the only one that gave result was "200" (bottom on of the ohm options on my multimeter) And then everything measured 00.2-00.3OhmsNote:Just found out that everything measures differently with black on a ground point on the PCB itself. so i will include some of those aswell in pics.i am confused but ill keep going. i feel like i am blind folded. But Thank you for still sticking with me.Quote from: Rasz on March 01, 2017, 01:54:39 amI took "small black capacitor" as in the tiny things right next to them. Hope im right. i also did the other components at the same time for info in case you needed it in this pic:Now the Coils which i assume are these pic:Here is my multimeter. And what i mean with "measuring with 200k" for example is when ive choosen that on my multimeter.I will try to do the SIC780's now but ill post this so i don't mess it up or make things more confusing.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2017, 06:20:50 pm
content: This makes no sense. There is no way for L18 to measure in megaohms, that is the only fuse almost guaranteed to work, otherwise you wouldnt get the "please connect" message. Im baffledEither you made a mistake or found blown fuse, recheck it.>I took "small black capacitor" as in the tiny thingsthis could be a winner ...if you actually measured what I askedone is not like the others on that pic, top SIC780 doesnt match the rest. BUT I didnt ask you to measure on small caps left of the SIC780+ you blue boxed a bunch of components and pins together so there is no telling what you were measuringwe need readings between green lines on attachment, 3 measurements per mosfet, 1 per L/R components.your "200K" actually shows a picture with 200 selectedthis (and earlier 2 identical photos with different descriptions) is a point when I start suspecting trolling. Im a terrible person to be teaching basics, I get frustrated quickly. You need a multimeter / measuring tutorial, im incapable of teaching that

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2017, 08:23:35 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 01, 2017, 06:20:50 pmI am sorry.The pic was mainly for you to see what options i had so you knew what i ment with 200k, 200 or even 2000 further up in the thread. when you said "Your measurements make no sense without units" and the two different pictures i explained. i labeled them on my phone right after i took the pics. After uploading i looked trough them fast and didnt see the one i then edited with paint then uploaded.You can be sure im not trolling, i would not sit 1.5 hours measuring and trying to learn for that, I am really trying my best to give you the info i can. and i will try again. I feel like a blind person being led trough this stuff.i am going to do them again. exactly as you asked now. Some of these resistors and fuses i've done and while writing this i still cant make them read more than 0.02 ohms or 1.0Mohms. and all other options under OHM on my multimeter gives 000 no matter orientaton. this is why i am so confused. i got more numbers from using ground as i did on my last post, so i thought that had to be right.This goes for R51, R52, R53 and L17. so essentially open/short?L18 is the only one with any sign of life. Thats the bottom one but it is also confusing, here are two readings i can get from it:andI am doing the SIC780's now but don't know if i have time to finnish it so i'll post what i've got so far. Regarding the 4901NF's i don't understand which is ground trough the datasheet. That is why i measured both ways.I really do appreciate the help here Rasz.

author: Chalcogenide
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2017, 08:54:15 pm
content: The red components with an X on top are most likely fuses, so the one reading high resistance is likely dead. You should verify everything connected on the line that the fuse was protecting; if nothing seems wrong, replace it with a similarly rated fuse (I couldn't find a datasheet, maybe someone more expert will be able to help) and hope for the best.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2017, 10:21:05 pm
content: Quote from: Sikator on March 01, 2017, 08:23:35 pmyou dont have to make them read anything specific, the point of measuring is getting a readout. 0 is absolutely fine, fuse should read 0, resistors should read very close to 0 (0.005 ohm).Quote from: Sikator on March 01, 2017, 08:23:35 pmthats GREAT!Quote from: Chalcogenide on March 01, 2017, 08:54:15 pmyes. This fuse is blown/open circuit.I think I know whats going on now, pictures misled me. I was assuming bottom fuse PCIE and top ones external.Measure red-green and red-blue Edit:on first picture. Im guessing red-green will be 0. I was assuming from the start to be the other way around. Now it all makes sense, even the weird top SIC780 reading.btw its easier to measure using Diode mode - 8th setting on your multimeter, the one with speaker icon, it makes beeping noise when shorted/detecting connection.most sane Google fuse data I found saidR = 3.5AX = 8A~240W total makes sense for 780TI, Nvidia claims 250W TDP. This also explains why you blew up your card, even GTX770 can draw 230W, and 780TI is 2x the size. Unlocking power limit made the card stop throtting, this option is for serious "enthusiasts", people who solder things like EVGA EPower to their cards.http://extreme.pcgameshardware.de/attachments/521480d1329751996-vmod-extreme-evga-epower-board-untouchables-im-test-complete_2.jpgBest case scenario you only blew a fuse, $1 and you will be back in action.Quote from: Chalcogenide on March 01, 2017, 08:54:15 pmargh, i knew I should of used different colors, there are THREE lines there, now in more colorsQuote from: Sikator on March 01, 2017, 08:23:35 pmno, I am sorry! Im terrible with a/children b/explaining very basic stuff. My personal worst was "tutoring" networking to 4th semester CS girl. I started by showing something cool - l33t networking hacking (aka script kiddie tools like kain&abel, this was ~2004?), but It soon dawned on me 2 years of SC apparently wasnt enough for her to learn absolute fundamentals like osi model, or whats a mac addressAn hour with me made her drop out of college.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 09:18:13 am
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 01, 2017, 10:21:05 pmNow i understand it a bit moreI am learning a fair bit here it feels likeQuote from: Rasz on March 01, 2017, 10:21:05 pmFirst picRed+Green=002 (diode mode)Red+Blue=Does get numbers but in a split second goes above what my multimeter can read. "1 . " (diode mode)Second picRed=146 with Red on the tiny thing and 103 with Red on the 4901NF Chip. (diode mode)Green=522 with Red on top. And above what it can read with Red on bottom. (diode mode)Blue=550 with Red on the tiny thing. And above what it can read with Red on the 4901NF Chip. (diode mode)Quote from: Rasz on March 01, 2017, 10:21:05 pmTrying not to get too hypedAnd yeah, i knew but being stupid is more fun some times until you fail i guess. This gpu actually got really good overclocks, even at decent temps. so i felt there was more to get, And there were until i underestimated and blew it at 200%.After googeling a bit, i read that Palit gives exact component specs etc if asked. And i got a positive answer when i sent them an email."Dear customerThank you for the mail.If you need some components’ SPEC please kindly provide below information.1. S/N of the graphic card, you can find the S/N from the product box or the sticker in back of the graphic card.2. Big & clear pictures of the PCB part of the graphic card and please use color circle to point out what components you need the SPEC.We will provide the components’ SPEC accordingly.Please kindly be notified.Thanks."Will be good i guess for atleast when/if i need to order one of those unlabeled partsQuote from: Rasz on March 01, 2017, 10:21:05 pmImo, trying to learn is useless to begin with if there isn't enough interest in the subject. (if i got the scenario right)

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 11:06:46 am
content: Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 09:18:13 amThink i understand it more now. Since its continuity mode/Diode mode. Black is where it comes from and red is where it goes to, when measuring?

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 12:25:13 pm
content: Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 09:18:13 amgood, now we know second and third transistor from the top are 100% fine, those are powered from PCIEQuote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 09:18:13 amDid you measure both top transistors and wrote one answer because they were the same?Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 09:18:13 amthis is pretty awesome, didnt know that about Palit.Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 09:18:13 amnah, its 100% me. Good teacher will try to enamor students in the subject (which I tried with my l33t haxoring demonstration), I just get frustrated at first signs of not keeping up.Now measure all the SIC780 in diode mode like you did 4901NF so we make sure its only fuse due to too much power drawn and not a fried transistor. Last thing you want is replacing fuse just to fry GPU.Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 11:06:46 amoh, if only it was that simple, it all depends on what you mean ;-)https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_polarityhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electron_holein diode mode meter will pump some tiny current from positive(red) to negative/ground(black) and measure voltage drop, in essence its measuring resistance of biased silicone junction. Its a fancy way of measuring resistance.go over all SIC780 to make sure they measure the same.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 01:31:20 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 02, 2017, 12:25:13 pmi measured one right and you wanted me to measure in the same way on both?or did i missunderstand the picture? i measured like this:Maybe i should've done it like this?:Then when thats said i am supposed to do it on both the 4901NF chips?I got slightly confused here as the word "Transistor" was used. Is that the tiny thing on its left? Cause the 4901NF's are power mosfets?Also to make sure i am gonna do the SIC780's correct. on the pic you drew on 6 of the SIC780's the lines are different. I woudlve thought i had to measure the same way on all of them.Is this because it is basicVin to GNDGND to SWand SW to VIN?as you showed in this pic:

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 01:35:27 pm
content: Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 09:18:13 amMaybe you should "TRY" also to ask them for the circuit schematic if not the block diagram and if not the troubleshooting flow chart or the initialization flow chart just in case the 2 problems are not resolved by the fuse. Better still, ask the fuse and freezing question to them. Don't we all like to learn ?

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 02:09:06 pm
content: Quote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 01:35:27 pmWold not see them giving too much but i could deff try something

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 02:56:37 pm
content: Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 01:31:20 pmIm getting frustrated again :/this is obvious stuff, you have two identical 4901NF parts, yes measure BOTH the same wayQuote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 01:31:20 pmgoodQuote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 01:31:20 pmtake a good look at 4901NF, use a loupe/macro in your camera, look at the pins and what they connect to, notice something funny? some pins connect to the same track on the board, now look at the picture you just drewQuote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 01:31:20 pmhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFETThe metal–oxide–semiconductor field-effect transistor (MOSFET, MOS-FET, or MOS FET)Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 01:31:20 pmall 8Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 01:31:20 pmI wasnt pixel perfect ;-)Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 01:31:20 pmyes, onall 8 SIC780pins market in same color are connected together. Lot of power going thru = need to use couple of pins tied together. This is why Vin and SW have 7 pins connected to same tracks.There are 3 groups of transistors on your card. Judging from pictures (so ~99% sure):1/ 2 powered from PCIE, Q16 4901NF for ram + U6 SIC780 for GPU - the bare minimum just enough to display that 'not plugged in' message = 100% working2/ 3x SIC780 U7 U8 U9, powered from right most external socket, supplied thru L17 = maybe ok, maybe bad3/ 4x SIC780 U10 U11 U12 U13, powered from left external socket, supplied thru L18 (open circuit) = 100% broken hereno idea where Q15 4901NF is connected, im guessing its in group 2.now we need to check if Q15 measures same as Q16, and if U10 U11 U12 U13 measure same as U6 U7 U8 U9.Obviously Vin to GND will be common among transistors in same group.Quote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 01:35:27 pmI wouldnt, this would signal you have absolutely no clue about what you are doing. This circuit is a very basic DC/DC buck converter, if you look at the back of the card there are controller chips there, circuit is based on their reference applications. We only care about the values of broken discrete components - so far one fuse, most likely 8 Amps.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 03:02:42 pm
content: Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 01:31:20 pmok so it doesn't matter. Same readings. Most important. some of the readings are different between the two 4901NF chips. Tho marginal. with 020 differance at max.Here are all of them counting from the top, so 1. = the top 4901NF. The colors represents as i mesure according to the picture above.1. |Blue=542| |Green=497| |Red=102|2. |Blue=458| |Green=519| |Red=102|Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 01:31:20 pmI saw that this didn't matter either, Same readings from any Vin to GND, GND to SW etc.So there are some small differances between the chips. But mainly the top SIC780.Here are all of them counting from the top, so 1. = the top SIC780.1. |VintoSW=512| |VintoGND=519| |SWtoGND=009|2. |VintoSW=490| |VintoGND=497| |SWtoGND=009|3. |VintoSW=490| |VintoGND=497| |SWtoGND=009|4. |VintoSW=490| |VintoGND=497| |SWtoGND=009|5. |VintoSW=483| |VintoGND=492| |SWtoGND=009|6. |VintoSW=483| |VintoGND=493| |SWtoGND=009|7. |VintoSW=483| |VintoGND=491| |SWtoGND=009|8. |VintoSW=483| |VintoGND=491| |SWtoGND=009|I hope this was what you wanted.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 03:28:30 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 02, 2017, 02:56:37 pmsorry again its corrected, it makes more and more sense as we go. Haha unfortunately i will understand most of what i did after and not during this xDQuote from: Rasz on March 02, 2017, 02:56:37 pmThis caught me off guard however. Interesting.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 03:35:19 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 02, 2017, 02:56:37 pmI am thinking forward aloud, the DC/DC buck converter is unlikely to "FREEZE" the whole computer "at times". I am thinking that the BUS has been locked or jammed by some attempt at DMA access from either way which freezes the computer as described. Maybe yes, its a power issue and maybe no. Yes, I have no clue.You sounded mighty confident at your approach. Well OK, you're the man.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 05:29:34 pm
content: Quote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 03:35:19 pmI meant this would signal incompetenceto the person reading the mail. Its like calling Mercedes dealer and asking to tell you in detail how a combustion engine works because you are about to repair one of their product and need 'few pointers'.Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 03:02:42 pmall looks ok, 4901NF is indeed in the second group of transistors.Looks like you lucked out and its only the fuse. DO NOT just bridge it with a wire (common cheapstake/noob tactic, been there fried few things myself)measure the size of that fuse, is it ~3x1.5 mm?http://www.newark.com/fuses-fuse-accessories_fuses/fuse-current/8a/pg/8100965241$ + shipping

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 05:56:26 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 02, 2017, 05:29:34 pmOmg, just to think that it's just a fuse :Oits 6x2.5mmThis makes me remember back in 2010-2011 when my friend broke a fan on his GTX 470. when i spoke with him a few days after i asked where it was. He said "I ripped it apart and threw it in the trash"He could see i was shocked and he then said "Why? what about it? don't say anything that will make me more mad please" With a sad face. I said "Nah nvm nothing"I was so frustrated that day....

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 07:20:58 pm
content: Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 05:56:26 pmmight be thishttp://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/fuses/littelfuse_fuse_2410sfv_datasheet.pdf.pdforhttp://www.mouser.com/ds/2/9/AEM_AF2-771160.pdfbut letter markings suggest different amperage from what I found earlier, R 8A and X 12A, still sane values. Its time to check if palit really answers emails about componentsask them about values of 3 fuses on your card.and dont celebrate too early, it might still blow up in your face ;-)

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 07:25:43 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 02, 2017, 07:20:58 pmI will try not to celebrate xDI allready sent a mail about the one that is dead in case so the answer would come as fast as possible, Ill add on the two others now

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 07:32:48 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 02, 2017, 07:20:58 pmI will record when i try it the first time, could be fun x)Palit was quick with replying the first time so i guess i will have an answer latest tomorrow. Will update then!

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 07:33:37 pm
content: you might also just buy both 8A and 12A fuses now and simply start with 8A, card should boot with either one, but could potentially pop 8A again during something heavy like unigine test loop if its too small.There are pictures of this card with either two R or two X fuseshttps://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/Palit-GeForce-GTX-780-Ti-JetStream-3GB-GDDR5-(NE5X78TH10FBJ)-PCB_54863.jpghttps://3dnews.ru/assets/external/illustrations/2014/03/27/814253/11_pal78ti_pcb_big.jpg

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 07:53:05 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 02, 2017, 07:33:37 pmInteresting. The one with 2 R's has 1x6pin and 1x8pin power tho? if that changes anything

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 08:17:32 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 02, 2017, 05:29:34 pmIf it's just a combustion engine, that simple, you would have explained the cause/s of the computer "freeze". So, it's not that simple, cause it's never explained.I mean is there a need to pretend competence when the "freeze" had not been explained? or at least you are not definite about it still now?.There is a reason why repair & maintenance manual are made for cars or be it, why service manual are produced for electronics - because it's internationally known that it's complicated. For example, we all know about BIO start up beeps or error start up codes only by reference to the manual, so what is wrong with asking for undocumented technical stuff? I don't think anyone would sound incompetence by knowing what and how to ask for information in this trade!Emm...!, is there a practice in your poorer part of EU the need to pretend to be competent?This forum is about asking, right? Cheers!Let's all hope that changing the fuse, would finally repair the GPU for Sikator.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 08:26:11 pm
content: Quote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 08:17:32 pmJust as an input. i have 3 monitors. main and left went black. The third was connected trough HDMI And i think it showed the picture for like a second. The first thing i did when stuff went wrong was look at MSI Afterburner. So almost like split second i presume? It has been closing to a year since this happend. The symptoms were mostly copied from the post i did on another forum in 2016.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 08:35:09 pm
content: Quote from: Sikator on March 02, 2017, 08:26:11 pmIf the "freeze" you talked about its just from the GPU card and not the computer [computer did not hang / freeze], then you may be in luck

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 10:30:46 pm
content: Here I was hoping for universal car analogy to work :-)Quote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 08:17:32 pmIm very confused with your obsession about freezing. I propose a little experiment - pull external power from your graphic card and watch what happens.Quote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 08:17:32 pmPalit has no obligation to help anybody, the mere fact they actually offered to help with part identification is amazing (and unheard of).Wasting this opportunity by asking stupid questions could end any help. Lets say you are signing up for a chess tournament, you come up to the guy with the list, put down your name and start asking about the basic game rules.Quote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 08:17:32 pmYes, there is this thing called wasting someones time. Engineers are very sensitive about this. If you start conversation by letting me know you have no idea what you are doing Im not going to hold your hand, im going to refer you to one of our authorized service centers, and Im speaking this from 'mayor regional parts distributor service technician' chair, not just as a random forum poster.this:>circuit schematic if not the block diagram and if not the troubleshooting flow chart or the initialization flowis basic knowledge, you can look it up in 30 seconds with one google query after reading buck controller model from the back of the card and searching for its datasheet. Edithttps://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/NCP4208-D.PDFQuote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 08:17:32 pmThis forum yes! We even have section about basics somewhere (i think), but definitely not manufacturers general support email. This is like mailing Intel support about low-k dielectrics, or Mercedes about basics of combustion cycle.Quote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 08:17:32 pmIm ~70% confident its only the fuse at this point ;-)

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2017, 11:05:00 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 02, 2017, 10:30:46 pmTell me if you think "initialization flow" is anything to do with your kitty buck controller stuff that you are SO proud about? Are you only limited in knowledge to power supply and you keep dangling about it and refuses to see the lights of others? Tell me if you were wrong  from your guesswork, will you be able to discern and differentiate and troubleshoot the RAMs against the GPU or its peripherals chips nearby? For example one of them is shorted or opened. Do you need aids like initialization flow to help out?For I am just planning ahead of time, just in case the fuse didn't solve it. I am NOT definitely NOT interested in your buck converter knowledge and it don't impress me at all. It's kind of silly, you think that I am asking for schematic, block, flow or initialization stuff for the buck converter.!But, still I hope it's just as simple as the fuse is blown. Let's focus forward, objectively.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2017, 01:17:35 am
content: Just to be clear Ill say it again - my first reply to you, the one saying "absolutely no clue about what you are doing"wasnt meant to offend you, but reflect reality - OP has no clue what he is doing + asking this level of question usually results in end of conversation(with me, on paid repair forums etc). Its one thing to give quick concrete reply to highly technical question, another trying to teach someone how the whole thing works. This is the kind of question you expect to get answered when moving couple $mil of TI/Analog components per month. But hey, feel free to be angryEdit: shit, Ill even apologize for good measure. Im sorry if I offended you.Quote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 11:05:00 pminitialization of what? Im even more confused now. You expect Nvidia partner to give you NDA covered information? You want them to disclose their throttling/power limit algorithms/methods?Quote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 11:05:00 pmnow now, no need to get angryQuote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 11:05:00 pmWhat are you on about?GPU itself is ok, same for the ram - card powers up on one supply rail, passes firmware selftest and is capable of generating picture. The only stuff that can be broken is in plain view(power sensing).Quote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 11:05:00 pmohyou missed that part, we already tested ram and GPU, they are neither shorted nor open.Quote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 11:05:00 pminitialization of what?Quote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 11:05:00 pmwell fuck me, I failed at impressing someone over the internet, maybe its time to delete this accountQuote from: Armadillo on March 02, 2017, 11:05:00 pmthen speak plainly, what exactly are you asking for? seriously, I might be missing somethingNice mini flamewar, I feel like on usenet again.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2017, 02:10:25 am
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 03, 2017, 01:17:35 amNo flame war intended. The fuses don't just blow. It blew up for a reason. It could be the mosfets , but those were ironed out. So something blew the fuses [over-clocking maybe]. We were seeing at different angles, expressing differently. You intended to be satisfied with the plug in of the new fuses, I am still searching for answers.But since you are now 100% satisfied that the GPU and Rams were tested ?? [presumably including the data and address busses], I should be satisfied with your findings, same.OK great.Peace be to All.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2017, 07:44:48 am
content: The answers are in.1. FUSE 2410 125V 10A AEM AF2-10.0V125TM2. FUSE 2410 65V 15A AEM AF2-15.0V065TM3. FUSE 2410 65V 15A AEM AF2-15.0V065TMSo im buying Nr 2/3 then.Just gonna do some searches, make sure I don't have to pay a million bucks to ship it to Norway xDSent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2017, 08:16:06 am
content: Well so far I've only found mouser.com that lets me order just 1 and not like 2000 minimum.Tho the fuse costs 2.75NOK and they want 150NOK shipping -_-Am I looking at the wrong suppliers?Sent from my ALE-L21 using TapatalkEDIT: Could i trust alibaba.com? i have had bad experiance from buying stuff from china also the ordering method is weird o.O + waiting 35days for it would be sad.

author: cheeseit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2017, 10:20:43 am
content: Mouser has free shipping if you buy for a certain amount, 330 DKK (ex. VAT) here. I can always find more stuff that I need/want and would rather get things for 150 than pay that for shipping. 2-3 business days shipping so you'd be able to continue troubleshooting soon.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2017, 10:26:12 am
content: Quote from: cheeseit on March 03, 2017, 10:20:43 amVery interesting, I have been looking for a few things before tbh. As long as i can keep the total under 350NOK or ill have to pay my great country 150-300NOK in taxes.Thank you!EDIT: It will become way too expensive. if i don't find a better solution ill just order the fuse, its better than a dead gpu atleast.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2017, 05:53:27 pm
content: Thank you so much for your help guys, And especially you Rasz for sticking with me the past days, re-explaining everything 2-4 times and dumbing things down to my levelx) I really appreciate itI do however feel bad for the next guy to come around with a similar problem, having to read trough all of my useless readings. x)I also learnt the measurements we did and how it tells me if the parts in question were good or bad during this.++The parts are ordered and i will update on the results when I've got it all together!

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2017, 12:40:18 am
content: Quote from: Sikator on March 03, 2017, 07:44:48 amthose values ... are wrongthey are 980TI fuses Y and Qhttps://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/980jetstream.jpghttp://www.ixbt.com/video3/images/gm204-10/palit-gtx980-scan-front.jpgwhile you have 780https://3dnews.ru/assets/external/illustrations/2014/03/27/814253/12_pal78ti_pcb-pw_big.jpg(the one with smaller external connector and weaker fuse)https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/Super-Jetstream-PCB_64821.jpg(yours)but at least that person confirmed they are using AEM fuses. You will need AF2-12.0V065TMI see you ordered wrong fuses already ;PYou can email Palit again with links to those pictures and ask if they are sure about the wrong info they just gave you.edit: of course its no drama, 15A fuse will work fine, its just gonna fry more things if it wasnt only the fuse. Personally I would start with 8A fuse, or even lab supply on that rail and limited current.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2017, 07:20:56 am
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 04, 2017, 12:40:18 amWait what? They don't know what fuses they have on their own Gpu's?!EDIT: I should've checked the damn sheet myself, obviously the technician at palit is completely wrong. What the actual.... The fuses are ordered and been processed.Kind of dissapointed in Palit, with the S/N of my gpu they still can't find the right info. I guess now i don't have much choice. I sent a mail trying to fix it.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2017, 10:51:54 am
content: QuoteSince the original fuse was 12A, what do you think of using the 10A, If this were to go wrong under heavy load then the 15A?In theory it wont ask for too much power if i don't make it right?Or.The original fuse did withstand at least 140% power draw if remember correctly, it was at 200% it blew.If that's the case, i could potentially use the 10A Until i can order another one which i might do in the future as i want to replace LED's on a G710+ and mouser had the ones i wanted for a decent price each.Also i could turn down the power draw to 80-90% if i really should.If i am a complete idiot with these thoughts please call me out xD

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2017, 03:08:17 pm
content: Quote from: Sikator on March 04, 2017, 10:51:54 amdid you order 10A too? its fine as long as fuses cutoff is around 350-400W like in those 780TI from links above.980TI needs 2x15A + 10A because stock card pulls up to 430W at peakhttp://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-980-ti,4164-7.htmlall in all its not that important, few amps here or there, if something fries there wont be much difference ;-)

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2017, 03:29:06 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 04, 2017, 03:08:17 pmEDIT:Hmm, thats Nominal Amperage and 12v under ohms law? if so thats 292W on the 10A'sNvm, only way i found near 350-400w on the fuse.I just ordered 1x10A 2x15A, idk why really haha, they were just so freakin cheap. And i managed to get free shipping aswellSeems like im gud then, atleast so far. Next time i'll order from Mouser i will add them in anyways. 0.3-0.4$ is practically nothing.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2017, 09:05:05 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 04, 2017, 03:08:17 pmWhen i come to think about this. Isn't there a big differance? 10A fuse blows 15A gpu blows? (Potentially)?

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2017, 11:33:45 pm
content: there are only 2 situations I can think of that made fuse blow in the first place:a/ removed limit let card pull >144W from that one rail, nothing mysterious hereb/ removed limit let card pull close to 144W which somehow glitched/fried controller/gate driver? getting transistor/s stuck low/pulling supply to ground, and they turned out stronger than fuse (50A per datasheet)b wouldnt let the screen stay frozen even for a fraction of a second, if would go straight to no signalfrozen screen = parts of gpu still running until watchdog ticks and restarts driver/emergency shut downs computer.there still might be something wrong in power sensing circuit, one step at a time

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 04:00:45 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 05, 2017, 11:33:45 pmOk new update.I am now really frustrated...First time nothing, no freakout, no picture. Nothing.I took it out, on to the bench and thought for a bit. Then i decided to resolder the fuse to the board threw it in my pc again and IT WORKED! Everything worked. I restarted one time to get full resolution on and all my 3 monitors. It fucking worked. Temps were fine, Everything was in perfect order. Both in GPU-Z And MSI Afterburner!So i thought hey why not reinstall drivers aswell since i've been using a really old card up until now. I opened driver sweeper. Clicked okey dokey on "Reboot to safe mode" And boom, the card is dead again...I have restarted. Replugged the gpu and everything. No freakouts. Nothing. Cant install drivers "No compatible card detected" it's not recognized in GPU-Z. What the actual f is going on?! This was exactly how it acted before i resoldered the fuse.EDIT: I have managed to make it work 2 times now. I am currently on and installing drivers. It seems like the pci connection is extremely unreliable for some reason. It is clean, but i don't expect 100% for it to work after a restart. And last time it worked i said YES And started screwing the screw on the PCI Slot in to straighten the gpu and that made the screen black. First black screen while the pc was on. (This is why i think it's an issue with the PCI Slot)This card is teasing me so hard right now....

author: RGB255_0_0
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 04:59:27 pm
content: Before it's ruled as a hardware issue, have you tried on a clean installation? What size fuse did you install in the end?

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 05:06:19 pm
content: Quote from: RGB255_0_0 on March 06, 2017, 04:59:27 pmHey. Did not see your comment. I have edited it now. this is weird

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 05:14:49 pm
content: Quote from: RGB255_0_0 on March 06, 2017, 04:59:27 pmI installed the 10A fuse.Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 06:04:35 pm
content: whoa, slow down!you dont go straight on a race track after transmission swapthe first time it worked - was it working with proper nvidia driver or default windows universal VGA one?look at your cards pcie connector close to metal bracket, are the first 5 pins charred on either side by any chance? look into te slot on the motherboard, also try the card in different slotIts possible you also fried your motherboardPCIE is rated at 75W max from both 3.3+12 rails. Your card is fused at ~100W from 12v alone. Its possible when L13 fuse went card pulled 100W from PCIE connector and motherboard didnt like that.edit: also dont do stupid things like trying over and over when its clearly not working, thats the definition of insanity.its possible power resistor got compromised and card detects that after loading proper driver, there is a lot of things that can be semi bad, trying over and over can only make things worse

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 06:17:48 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 06, 2017, 06:04:35 pmHmm. I have changed to the 15A fuse. And i have had no problems what so ever for at least 30 mins by now. I've ran benchmarks and currently playing. waiting to see if something is going to happen.It also doesn't seem sensitive to movement. Proper drivers installed and restarted a couple times without problems. So far so good.To me this doesn't make too much sense? cause if it pulled over 10A it would've just blown the fuse right?The only difference between the fuses "10A" and "15A" other than the amperage is that in Diode Mode on my multimeter the 10A gives 001, where the 15A gives 003 (003 like everything other fuse already on the board) if that makes any differance.As of your questions.First time it worked i think it went straight to windows universial. Low res etc. (Later tries that worked i have seen it show up as microsoft display adapter or something in GPU-Z (Cause i by then had uninstalled all drivers ofc)Pci connector looks beautiful. and i did test again with my 560ti which gave no problems.The only components that i still have from when the gpu died last year is CPU, RAM and PSU.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 06:33:33 pm
content: Quote from: Sikator on March 06, 2017, 06:17:48 pmnicemy guess is bad soldering on the first fuse swap, glad its working now

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 06:37:42 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 06, 2017, 06:33:33 pmCan't look away from that possibility with this ape on the soldering ironAlso should i worry with anything now that i am using a 15A fuse? Like overclocking.I guess what i am wondering is if i should still get the 12A original fuseI have never really payed attention to all of GPU-Z's sensor readings tho. You were mentioning amps and wattage etc. heres a pic from when i ran OCCT maxed.EDIT: I have to maneuver some stuff around in my pc soon so i'll wait with a celebration until then. I still don't feel confident in it working after a restart etc x)

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 11:06:25 pm
content: >Can't look away from that possibility with this ape on the soldering ironits >10 layer board, you need two strong soldering irons or beefy hotair. Im curious how you managed to solder it in the first place, not to mention remove the bad one :-)I never used OCCT so dont know its profile.GPU-Z perfcap shows UTIL = card is not loaded enough to throttle at all, weak load = you didnt hit performance limit.try something like unigine, heavy game with vsync off or furmarm to really load it up and test properly15A is fine, just make sure you have all the external power connected (including those 1x2 plugs). As a bonus you can probably bump power limit again ;-) but stick to something sane like 120%

author: RGB255_0_0
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 11:58:52 pm
content: Only run Furmark if you're sure your GPU/VRMs can handle it. So I'd stick to Heaven or Firestrike. But other than that, I'd avoid modded BIOS for voltage and power target

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2017, 10:44:21 am
content: Quote from: Rasz on March 06, 2017, 11:06:25 pmOkey so everything worked perfectly without any problems since yesterday, Gaming, benchmarks and total ON time prob around 4 hours. I sat the whole evening with it, and this morning.I ran Heaven (By GPU-Z Not pushing even near what OCCT did) for about 40mins no problems. I turned Heaven off. sat for 5-10 minutes in a web browser and suddenly the screens went black. The screen connected to motherboard IGPU, was on for 10sec. then started changing res or something and looking weird before it went black too. I got disconnect sounds (Windows sounds).Restarted my pc and now once again i am on my third monitor connected to IGPU.I have also seen that the "Skyn3t" Bios is still on the card somehow. I must have re flashed the wrong bios after it died last year. Though i don't see this having anything to do with it, no settings are above normal. if anything they are under. I have tried 120% etc but not since yesterday. they might be something under the hood of the bios but ehhh you think? I will find my original bios and flash it if i get it working again.It worked. then didn't. It has been the story of this card since yesterday and now were back at not working again.i am confused as there is no obvious things going on. there is no Run benchmark = black screen. Or even touching the pc = black screen. Nothing. It is stable as a rock one moment and the other it is a big fat pussy...

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2017, 10:56:59 am
content: Actually, I think I can even boot with the card alone. Lije on to windows. I have not tried this with turning off the IGPU but with no displays connected to the motherboard.I'll try this as well the next time it decides to work. O.oSent from my ALE-L21 using TapatalkEDIT: I might know what the problem was, The metal "spring bracket" for the gpu's heatsink only fits perfectly in one direction.It was touching 2 resistors or what ever those things are. Those things did not measure any different from GND to it compared from the metal backplate to it. IDK if this was it but now its working AGAIN... xD this is like a relationship with a girl that once cheated on you. You can never trust her 100%, but it's all you've got.

author: Sikator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2017, 09:33:26 pm
content: I rearranged some stuff, had it in and out 2 times. No problems what so ever. It's as healthy as can be as far as i am concernedThanks a lot again for the helpI can play games again! <3

author: Netcrusher
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 30, 2017, 05:59:00 pm
content: Hello i´m new on this website and I read this topic, I have 3 Gtx 780 , they don´t work, just showing a black screen and the fan running at maximum speed, how can I check these Fuses??? In one of the three cards look like someone has changed the Fuse with letter R with one with letter Q, i´m total beginner about it, thanks.