What type of component is this? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AndersJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2018, 08:12:36 am
content: It is marked SB612C3C.The contact on the other side of the plate looks like a 8A relay contact.The two terminals are shorted through the contact.It is not magnetic.What might this be?

author: Kalvin
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2018, 08:25:07 am
content: A light bulb, perhaps?

author: Jasonbit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2018, 08:51:53 am
content: I don't know but this photo suggest a component to detect flames! I suggest UVTRON flame sensor, like this photo:https://i.pinimg.com/originals/45/04/fd/4504fd6e53ddaf4f62d8103f6b9466ab.jpgOnce a time, a few years ago, I saw an sensor which the robot can detect flame on a distance.

author: amc184
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2018, 09:51:56 am
content: Looks like a glass packaged crystal resonator, maybe?

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2018, 10:08:08 am
content: Perhaps a bi-metal blinker (intermitter) like in old cars that blink the direction indicator lights,it works like a bi-metal when it gets hot it changes shape and breaks the contact, when it is cold it goes back and makes contact again.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2018, 10:09:56 am
content: Can't see the first picture but does it look like this ? Than it is as suspected a bi-metal relais.https://www.motor-forum.nl/forum/list_messages/76221/Bi-metaal-relais-1.html

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2018, 11:31:52 am
content: It's probably a starter for old-style fluorescent light bulbs. Or rather, what's inside the little thingy called a "starter".https://home.howstuffworks.com/question337.htm

author: AndersJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2018, 11:56:27 am
content: Kjelt, I think you nailed it.My device is extremely similar to the one in your picture.I tried it, and it worked once.It opened at 10A, closed again, and now it stays closed.Perhaps it needs external protection to prevent contact welding.This is my only one, so the experiments end here.Thanks,Anders

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2018, 12:16:25 pm
content: Quote from: AndersJ on August 07, 2018, 11:56:27 amOh no you didn't put hard 12V on it did you? It works ofcourse in series with a 12V lightbulb that has to flashThe lightbulb when it is cold is low resistance so the metal can heat up, when the light burns it is high resistance and the metal cools down .At least I think it works like that.

author: AndersJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2018, 12:47:42 pm
content: I used a electronic active load.Was that a mistake?

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2018, 02:40:12 pm
content: Not sure how fast the load acted and what the settings were ?

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2018, 05:42:00 pm
content: It may be an auto-resetting thermal or overload fuse. Fluorescent ballasts typically have something similar embedded in them. Unfortunately people often seem to ignore the cycling light caused by a ballast with shorted turns running hot until the contacts weld. When that happens the ballast really cooks itself, usually until the entire fixture gets so hot that it melts the insulation on the wiring feeding it, causing a short that trips the circuit. Other times the tar catches fire or in one case I replaced one that had been arcing internally. It melted a hole in the back of the ballast casing, then melted a hole in the metal fixture, then left a good sized scorch mark on the sheetrock ceiling. Had it been mounted to a wood structure it would have likely burned down the house.