DIY PSU based on DPS5015 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ChrisLX200
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 10:15:14 am
content: I've been busy with other stuff recently so this job took a back seat. However I need to recover the bench space so it's time it was finished!Progress so far: I managed to shoe-horn the second DPS5015 PCB into the front of the case with barely a mm to spare, also separated the ribbon cables that connect to the displays into single wires so they were more flexible (some tight bends were required). I 3D printed a cover for the mains voltage PCB to isolate it from the aluminium case, the underside will get a couple of layers of Kapton but it's well clear of the bottom anyway with the standoffs.Only real remaining job is to position the remote power switch but it will go approximately where you can see it (but lower), an actuating rod passing through the plates and out the front terminated with a nice button. I have yet to decide where to place the USB socket - front or rear - there's more room at the back so it will probably go there.I could so with some sort of temperature control for the main fan so it's not on all the time, it's a bit OTT but I could fit an Arduino nano inside with temperature probe to control it I guess.

author: mdijkens
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 10:25:58 am
content: NiceFor the temp-control I used 2 of these:https://www.ebay.nl/itm/DC-12V-3A-4Pin-PWM-PC-CPU-Fan-Temperature-Control-Thermostat-Speed-Controller/322847261318

author: ChrisLX200
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 27, 2018, 10:40:44 am
content: Quote from: mdijkens on March 27, 2018, 10:25:58 amThanksThat looks a neat solution

author: ChrisLX200
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 12, 2018, 07:38:26 pm
content: Found a place to fit the remote power switch - there was very little room for it and I even needed to thin down the 6mm nylon rod for it to clear the fan. All the tricky jobs done so only the internal wiring and fixing in place the USB port and temperature control board for the cooling fan (that sits in a small 3D-printed box).

author: ChrisLX200
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 13, 2018, 10:39:03 pm
content: Completed! Checked around with the meter for shorts etc., then powered up from mains voltage. No smoke.It's so handy having a 3D printer, this little box holds the USB interface attached to the rear plate, only took a couple of minutes in SketchUp and 15mins to print. A wole lot quicker than fabricating even a simple bracket by hand.I was hoping to get (up to) 48v out of the thing when fed ~52V input but no - maximum stable is 42V. It will go up to an indicated 46V but as you can see from the PC readout the output is unstable.At 42V it's quite accurate as indicated by the Brymen 869s:Set to 48V I only get and unstable 46V (sawtooth output):These are figures with the output unloaded.. Next I will do some load tests using my Maynuo electronic load, can't get near the theoretical maximum with that as 150w is the max, but I can check temperatures at that.

author: ymg200
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 14, 2021, 10:56:43 pm
content: Chris,Thank you for sharing your project. I'm looking into DPS5015 as an option for a budget power supply.How does it communicate with PC? I see that there is a USB option and a Bluetooth option. Are either suitable for interfacing with a PC? Is Bluetooth really needed if there is already a USB?Thank you.