What type of enclosure and connector is this?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 06:14:09 pm
content: HiDoes any one know of an enclosure similar to this one? I can find plenty of extruded aluminium ones that hold PCB's but mountable or with a lifting cover.Also any one know what the connector is called? I've seen them in RS but can't seem to find it again.Thanks in advance. ??

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 06:32:20 pm
content: I think the connectors are 5015 bayonet type (an evelution of the original 5015 that were screw thread)Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 06:43:15 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on May 18, 2017, 06:32:20 pmLooks like you're righthttps://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIL-DTL-5015?wprov=sfla1. Has an interesting history...I knew they where military grade and I have to buy a few of them at those prices 😭😭😭Seen them on army radios too.Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 06:44:01 pm
content: The box was probably custom made, it would not surprise me given the expensive connectors.Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 06:47:17 pm
content: Yes military, heavy industry and rail are very big on them, these days replaced by D38999. Where in the world are you? Best place in the UK and USA is pei genesis, don't buy from Farnell or similar as no electronics distributor stocks them, they have them drop shipped from pei genesis and charge you twice as much with a longer lead time.Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 06:50:42 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on May 18, 2017, 06:44:01 pmTrue. Pity it's a nice enclosure PCB and wall mountable with removable cover.Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 06:51:29 pm
content: Where I work we now have boxes machined from billet 😎Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

author: Gregg
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 06:52:03 pm
content: Now please post pictures of the inside to satisfy our curiosity. Thanks in advance.

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 06:58:41 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on May 18, 2017, 06:47:17 pmWow they are a lot cheaper. Are they based in America? I'm in the UK but even with import duty it's still cheaper.Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 07:00:50 pm
content: Will do 😂 😂Quote from: Gregg on May 18, 2017, 06:52:03 pmSent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 07:01:43 pm
content: PEI are also in the UK in Southampton. They build the connectors from shells and the various inserts for the pin layouts to order in two days. Often they have a lead time if parts are not in stock. Your connectors should have part numbers printed on one side of the base or around the round body, if you post them I can help work out mating halves.Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 07:07:45 pm
content: Quote from: Gregg on May 18, 2017, 06:52:03 pmHere you are... 14 screws later. 😁The back has a huge Dc to Dc converter.Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 07:15:31 pm
content: It looks like the box is made from extruded elements screwed together, maybe the lid is folded sheet. It is likely that the manufacturer has ownership of the extruded tool and uses the parts to make custom boxes.

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 07:15:36 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on May 18, 2017, 07:01:43 pmThanks. Here's the one I want both male and female chassis mounted and cable.Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 07:18:08 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on May 18, 2017, 07:15:31 pmI did contact them and they sent a few plans they had left includeg the schematic. German quality 👌Try contacting a UK company.Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 07:20:04 pm
content: ah, never seen those numbers before to be honest. The good news is that the part numbers are a coded system not randomly assigned so each part of the number means something, the first part ABB refers to ABB connectors, the rest will probably follow a scheme along the lines of: Shell type, shell size, pin layout, pin gender, and then other information like plating type and colour and pin types and the type of back shell. I'll see wht I can find. PEI sell ITT cannon connectors but they all mate together fine if they are 5015 "B"

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 07:33:12 pm
content: ABB seem to have moved onto different products. They may have a datasheet at work that explains how the numbering works. I can hazard a few guesses: H is the type of shell: wall mount, 16S is a size 16 short pin shell, I'd be surprised if "1" is the layout but could be, P is for male pin (they are PC in the connector world and call them pins and socket pins), C is for crimped pin, N I have no idea, F80 means gold pins, VO I don't know but would assume is the plating type and colour as this information would be part of the number.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 07:48:06 pm
content: The "n" is for normal keyway

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 08:03:16 pm
content: http://www.peigenesis.com/en/shop/part-information/AIB616S1SS/APH/EACH/423635.htmlis your plug, note the picture is wrong, it does not have a backshell though, do you need one ?The wall mount socket itself (actually it's a box mount I think) is a AIB6-16s-1ps if you replace the s on the end of the numbers with c you get crimp pins.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 08:04:15 pm
content: http://www.peigenesis.com/images/content/pei_tabs/amphenol/aib-gt-series/new-thumbs/create-part-number1.pdfis the full datasheet, in your case the connector layout is a 16S-1 (size 16 shell for short pins, layout number 1)

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 08:39:45 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on May 18, 2017, 08:04:15 pmThanks I will have a look at these in more detail.Seeing as you know a lot on this subject can pick your brains? 😁Can you solder the cables on these connectors or do they require some sort of crimp tool?Also what sort of cable do I use with them? So far I'm going for multi core automotive cable.Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 08:43:21 pm
content: Traditionally they had solder buckets but these days crimps are preferred as solder joints fatigue. They take up to 16AWG wire. If you just want to connect up to it you can manage without the back shell and just buy the connector front. If you want to make a nice cable up you can use various back shell types to strain releive the wire.Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 09:52:04 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on May 18, 2017, 08:43:21 pmNo, I mean cable type. I dont know industrial cable names but for example CAT6, 6242Y etcSent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 06:43:31 am
content: You can use any wire you like. Depending on how long lasting you want it to be use something that won't break easy so either thicker up to 16awg or better quality. At work I use mostly Raychem 44 but this is meant for the military market or markets that don't mind the benefits of halogens in the sleeving, you probably just want a good grade auto wire and it will be fine. The pins are rated for 13A but bear in mind that despite the commercial blurb these are an old and now inflexible connector type and the minimum pin size is 16awg (called a #16 pin) unless you have a couple of the huge ones where they conceded to use #20 pins. I have a speed sensor on connectors these size, 20mA through a 13A pin

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 10:05:16 am
content: Fascinating to see how they've made a custom enclosure, expensive circular connectors, a coated board, but yet they use the worst possible wire-to-board crimp terminals humanity every conceived. They are the most common failure of all products coming in for repair. The wire gets loose, starts shorting or sparking, product dies.But hey, they're cheap!

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 10:18:57 am
content: Quote from: Jeroen3 on May 19, 2017, 10:05:16 amWell it's been rattled really hard for at least 5 years without damage. I am surprised to be honest. It wasn't even shock absorbed.Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 10:43:18 am
content: RAYCHEM is wire tho - not cable. I think I found ithttp://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/multicore-industrial-cable/6604099/this looks the same as what's used on the train.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 10:44:37 am
content: So what are you actually trying to achieve. It's a connector like any other, if the wire fits and is good for your application then it's ok. If you are bent on raychem 44 you can get it in multicore but that is very hard to find.Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 10:49:53 am
content: This is the closest enclosure I can findhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/Aluminum-enclosure-PCB-Chassis-shell-Power-case-spit-panel-box-DIY-90-35-120mm/32235409872.htmljust a bit thin.

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 11:05:30 am
content: Quote from: Jeroen3 on May 19, 2017, 10:05:16 amApparently you've never seen good crimp terminals with the correct crimper, but then again that wouldn't be what was failing, so it wouldn't be coming into the shop then.The plier type is unsuitable for the job. Amp PIDG crimp terminals with the right ratcheting crimp tool should be stronger than the wire, plus the PIDG terminals have a thin metal bell mouth that supports the insulation to stop fatigue where the insulation stops.

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 11:27:07 am
content: It's not the crimp part that fails. There are two failures often seen.- By thermal cycling the tension in the two bend over grippers on the flags are fatigued and the plug slides right of.- The crimp plug vibrated and/or got too hot so the plug becomes brittle and breaks between the crimp part and the gripper part.

author: jonovid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 12:04:16 pm
content: http://www.wikiwand.com/en/U.S._Military_connector_specificationsbayonet type avionics connectors, I have seen them before find a matching pair of them male and female. if you get lucky.alsothis is equipment fitted in an aircraft. made to military specifications. pins can be just 2 or up to 50 pins. I will find 100's types of the same avionics connector design at old military disposal shops. some in the same type of aluminum cases. many was waterproof with "o" ringshttp://www.avic.com/en/forbusiness/electroniccomponents/electricalandopticalconnector/index.shtml

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 12:14:13 pm
content: Quote from: jonovid on May 19, 2017, 12:04:16 pmThey are actually easier than you think. I love them, not this particular series as it is well overdue for retirement but all military and heavy duty connectors like this are very well documented and have a ton of options without making it hard if you know what you need in the first place. I have become somewhat of an anorak on connectors through work and I now cringe when I have to start dealing with small plastic connectors as they are generally poorly documented, have tons of obscure and unnecessary options and are often not in stock unless you pick the most popular variant. D38999 (the best modern replacement for 5015) are reasonably readily available unless your after an obscure part and even with attention deficit I can rattle off a part number off the top of my head because it's so easy. Metal connector systems to cheap commercial grade ones are like lego sets to play-dough.

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 01:31:38 pm
content: Quote from: Jeroen3 on May 19, 2017, 11:27:07 amAh ok, id buy that for sure. Without strain relief of the wire. and vibration damping even the best connector can only do do much, and I doubt anything but space/aero is going to do a bundled harness with individual ties for each wire exiting the bundle. Surprised the terminal fails before the solder joints though.Also,QuoteFor signal and some power, undeniably. Good luck getting more than a #8 contact in 38999 housings though (if you do have a source, please share) and the CA bayonet/ VG95234 (looks similar to the OPs connectors) despite being 5015 based are good choices. Anything that's bayonet lock is good. 5+ crusty turns on a dirty 5015=

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 02:37:53 pm
content: Quote from: ConKbot on May 19, 2017, 01:31:38 pmVG95234 is the german version of the 5015 standard, if you get an ITT canon datasheet for them you will find both standards of part number given.I think there is a larger contact than #8 but it is not D38999, the name rhino comes to mind and I suspect they may be in the same type of shell or at least one of similar ilk, they can carry hundreds of amps but it is 1 pin per connector. If your looking for readily available commercial grade connectors for high currents try anderson connectors.

author: radar_macgyver
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 02:46:13 pm
content: After some rather painful expenditure (crimp, insertion and extraction tools), my work lab settled down on MIL-26482 crimp-style connectors. Then I found out they're getting harder to find, particularly for larger contact sizes, so on a recent project I replaced them with Amphenol GT connectors (and more tooling...). These are the same as what the OP has posted. Very rugged, although the plating does wear off fairly easily. One advantage over 26482 is they take all the standard 5015 backshells and accessories.When using multiconductor cable with GT series connectors, I would specify the LCF/LCFZ backshell variant. These are designed to grip the outer jacket of a cable. The standard clamp-style backshells (F suffix) are designed for individual wires, and don't work nearly as well with a jacketed cable. My application included salt-spray exposure, so it may be a harsher environment than most.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 02:51:55 pm
content: any 5015 variant is on the way out. I now use exclusively D38999 S3 connectors, yes all of the platings are absolute crap. Due to the difficulty in obtaining the backshells from stuck up companies that won't even stock a basic range I designed my own, while they don't have the locking cog that the commercially available ones do they are just like the ones that PEI sell except I don't have to buy a connector to get them and they are dirt cheap. Mine are hard anodized black. We sent a system for salt fog test and the connectors came back all white and fury, the backshells looked like new5015 only go down to #16 pin unless you get ones with over 50 pins and get #20. D38999 go down to #22 that I now plant to use a lot of and there are #26 pins but I don't like the idea of 26awg wire.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 02:56:42 pm
content: yes crimp tools are expensive, the D38999 and 5015 share the same crimper body with different turrets for each connector series, they are now about £450, which is not bad when you can pay £1.5K for a poxy TE open barrel crimp tool that you can replace with something for £20 if you happen on the right size.