Metcal Soldering Station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Ranger14
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2016, 04:49:42 pm
content: For a gift I got a Metcal STSS-001 soldering station used off ebay .. But I already have a Hakko FX-888D and would like some input as to which unit would be best to keep ??Also with the Metcal I can't seem to find a list of tips that work with the unit and was hoping someone could help out ??Thanks

author: ruairi
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2016, 05:52:45 pm
content: I haven't used either of the models you mentioned but I have a pair of Metcal SP200 which I bought to replace my Hakko 936. The Metcals are in an entirely different league, they are superb. I'll be letting the Hakko go at a swap meet soon.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2016, 05:59:06 pm
content: Quote from: Ranger14 on June 03, 2016, 04:49:42 pmhttp://www.okinternational.com/metcal/english/globalnavigation/products/hand-soldering-systems/tips-and-cartridges/mx-cartridgeshttp://www.thermaltronics.com/tipcartridge.php

author: suicidaleggroll
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2016, 06:14:48 pm
content: I have a Hakko 936, Hakko 888, and Metcal PS2E-01. The Metcal is far and away the better station, there's really no comparison. The Hakkos aren't _bad_ per-se, but the Metcal is in another league.Easily my favorite tip for the Metcal is the STTC-126.

author: WillHuang
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2016, 06:19:38 pm
content: I've used a Metcal at work (believe it is the METCAL MX-500UF) to solder lead free components. I love it. What I especially love is how FAST the tip gets up to temperature (give it not even 10 seconds, and its already @ 800F!)I would actually recommend to keep both. Especially when soldering SMD components, it's faster to use two soldering irons at the same time. It also makes it easier to de-solder multi-pin components (like a sot-23-3 component).

author: jitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2016, 07:40:35 pm
content: Quote from: Ranger14 on June 03, 2016, 04:49:42 pmYou should keep the one with which you feel most comfortable you can do with what you need to do.Try it out and then decide which you think is better. The next decision should be if the cost of the new cartridges is worth it to you.At work I have worked with a Metcal for a short time and then switched to JBC. At home I have a cheapo Solomon SL-20 that suits my needs. Would I like to get a free JBC of the Advanced series like you got the Metcal? You bet! And then I'd realize that the cartridges cost an arm and a leg to buy...

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 03, 2016, 08:06:40 pm
content: I have had a Hakko 936 and currently have a Hakko FX-951 and a Metcal MX500. Both are awesome units and I also have the Talon tweezers for the Metcal as part of the package deal I got. Give both a fair shakedown. I think you would come to like the Metcal better but I would keep both. 2 soldering irons are better than 1.

author: Dragonfly
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2016, 08:35:33 pm
content: I have a Metcal SP-PW1-10. I've used several other soldering iron brands and the Metal is clearly the best iron I've ever had. I think you'll like yours!

author: Ranger14
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2016, 02:29:10 am
content: Thanks for the great info everyone .. Today I got it in the mail and a chance to use it .. All I can say is wow the unit crazy heating up and works so much better than my Hakko FX-888D.. I only did a couple tests cause the tip that came with the unit is in pretty rough and pretty much is shot but usable .. Also I forgot the unit is a Metcal RFG-30 with STSS-001 iron ,sorry for the mistake ...I know a tip was mentioned but does anyone else have any recommendation on a tip?? I do mostly though hole and repair work but have been working with smd also ..

author: jitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2016, 05:58:42 am
content: One of the "seven sins of handsoldering" is upping the temp too much because too small a tip is used. Get several sizes.You must use a tip that has enough thermal mass for the job yet not be too big to fit on the pads. Slightly bigger is OK, though.I like chisel tips for through hole stuff and the bigger SMD stuff, so I would really recommend to buy a couple of different sizes that are going to suit your needs.

author: Floyo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2016, 06:59:38 am
content: A tip when looking for tips, have a look at the ones Thermaltronics (a company founded by ex Metcal employees) make. These tend to be a bit cheaper, and are basically clones of the Metcal sizes. They have a cross reference chart.Another thing to look for is the tip temperature, there are 600,700 and 800F tips. I have the 600F ones, they should be fine for most needs (maybe not the best for lead free). Lower temps are usually better, and it makes the flux not burn and blacken on the tip as severely.As for tip sizes, having a couple is never bad. Right now I use the M6C300 for smd stuff (tiny conical), the MCH178 for "small" through hole (1,5mm chisel), then there is the M6CP200 for big connectors/wires etc (3.0mm chisel), and finally the M6CP200 hoof tip for drag soldering. An advantage of the Metcals heating architecture makes it possible to often use somewhat undersized tips, the feedback is so quick that it still manages to heat the thermal mas well enough to get the job done.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2016, 02:12:31 pm
content: Chisels, say 3, in say ~ 1.6mm, 2.4mm, and 3.2mm widths.Bent conical with a fine point (good for passive SMD's as well as pulling any bridges from drag soldering).Hoof/Bevel or dedicated drag soldering tip (~3 - 3.3mm). The advantage of the hoof/bevel, is it can be used as a more general purpose tip as well (i.e. tabs & other larger stuff + PTH), while the dedicated drag tip makes this particular process very easy (holds a ball of molten solder in the end of the tip).With this basic set of 5 tips ^, you'll be able to do most anything IME. Maybe not as comfortably as with some of the specialty shapes in a few cases (ergonomics), but doable nonetheless. More importantly however, it makes getting started more affordable.Also,Hakko's Tip Selection pagewould be worth a look IMHO, as it can show you what the different shapes can be used for.