Which crimp tool to buy? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sean0118
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2015, 03:14:34 am
content: Hi everyone,I'm looking to invest in a general use semi-decent crimper.At the moment I need to crimp some of these:http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&keywords=A27813-NDI also need to crimp two (yes only two) of these butt crimps. What type of crimper is used for these? Maybe I need a second (and cheaper) crimper just for these?Is something likethissuitable for the quick connect crimps I posted?Thanks

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2015, 03:30:37 am
content: Are you sure you need a crimper for that?

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 16, 2015, 03:38:43 am
content: I use a Knipex 97 52 36 for isolated cableshoes. It also fit for Duraseal shoes and butt crimps.http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=14&page=group_detail&parentID=1299&groupID=1305

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2015, 05:16:34 am
content: I bought a pair of these like 20 years ago when I was installing car stereo and alarm systems.I will never even thinking about buying another kind. These things crimp those type of connectors so good!http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/crimpingcutting-tools/crimpingcutting-tool-non-insulated-terminalsWorth every penny i spent for them.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2015, 06:23:07 am
content: A ratcheting crimp tool with interchangeable dies might be of interest, particularly if you're doing small numbers of a lot of different terminal types (prototyping or repair for example). Personally I went with thePressmaster MCTas I wanted something better than the inexpensive Asian products (inconsistent IME & no traceability, should you need that).It's main benefit is it's a lot cheaper than buying dedicated crimpers. The downside is you don't get any terminal locators that are usually present on the top quality dedicated models, so they do require a bit more skill.The following might be of interest:NASA's workmanship standards onCRIMPED TERMINATIONS, GENERAL REQUIREMENTSNASA Workmanship Standards: Pictorial Reference(this one covers a LOT of stuff)CRIMPING, INTERCONNECTING CABLES, HARNESSES, AND WIRING(NASA-STD 8739.4; .pdf)

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2015, 07:22:18 am
content: I've always had good results with these :http://www.altronics.com.au/p/t1552a-crimptool-ratchet-automotive/Admittedly I've probably only done a couple of hundred crimps over quite a few years, so I'm not a high volume user but I've never had one come loose or require re-terminating and most of my stuff gets used in under-bonnet or marine environments.For years I used to solder and heatshrink, however it turns out in high vibration environments (like say cars or boats) butt splices like you pictured above tend to be more reliable long term. All this said with the caveat you use *quality* connectors and not the cheap generic crap sold at Repco or Supercheap.

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2015, 10:23:26 am
content: On that digikey page they link to the amphenol pro crimp crimper. I've used a different version of that for 20-10awg wire I believe ( your usual red blue yellow lugs). That with some pidg series terminals makes for the strongest hold I've ever seen on spade/ring terminals. If I put a spade terminal in a vice and yank on the wire, the wire breaks on small wires, and with 10 awg the spade gets ripped in two.I've used some 3rd party crimpers "meant" for solderless terminals and have never had much luck getting something remotely as solid. Not saying $500 crimper are the best idea for a hobbyist, but in a professional situation, totally worth it being able to put terminals on and to be 100% sure it's going to stay put.

author: sean0118
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2015, 12:17:18 pm
content: Thanks for the replies everyone.Quote from: ivan747 on June 16, 2015, 03:30:37 amYour referring to the second red crimp right? I'm pretty sure you do, but I've never used one before, it came in a switch replacement kit for an old lamp I'm repairing. Instructions aren't clear how the connection is meant to be made.Quote from: cs.dk on June 16, 2015, 03:38:43 amI think that's the one I linked to on Amazon at the bottom of my post? But good to know someone's had success using it. I'm pretty new to crimping, are the Duraseal butt crimps similar to the red one I posted? If Duraseal makes quality crimps I might get some to take it's place.Quote from: ConKbot on June 16, 2015, 10:23:26 amOk cool, I never noticed the tooling section on Digikey before, good to know. Those crimpers sound great but they are too pricey for me to justify (for now).Quote from: BradC on June 16, 2015, 07:22:18 amYeah I solder and heatshrink my connections atm, but it's time I bite the bullet and invest in a crimper. I think I might order some better quality butt splices though, I have a feeling these ones are the cheap generic crap you mention... it's to splice 240V so need to be a good connection.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2015, 08:18:07 pm
content: Quote from: sean0118 on June 16, 2015, 12:17:18 pmStick to name brands for terminals, such as 3M, Molex, TE Connectivity (AMP/Tyco), Panduit, Thomas&Betts, and Amphenol. They'll happily sell you the tooling as well, but it's expensive (they apply a substantial markup).Instead, get it from the source they use, such asPressmaster,Wezag, orDaniels Manufacturing. Or from tooling companies such as Xcelite, Facom, or Wiha (should offer greater availability = cheaper).Given it's lower total cost, you might want to concentrate on models with interchangeable dies (don't have to buy a frame every time).

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2015, 11:21:08 pm
content: Quote from: sean0118 on June 16, 2015, 03:14:34 amFor pre-insulated connectors, the usual red/blue/yellow sleeve ones, I use one of thesehttp://www.aliexpress.com/item/Crimping-pliers-crimper-Cable-clamp-Can-be-pressed-terminal-diameter-0-25-2-5mm2/827362040.htmlwhich works well. Your spade connector looks a bit different than the usual ones, but probably would work too.

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 03:40:06 am
content: Quote from: sean0118 on June 16, 2015, 12:17:18 pmYes, sorry missed the link in your postDuraseal are schrinkable, which provides sealing and some strainrelief.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 12:05:41 pm
content: Quote from: cs.dk on June 17, 2015, 03:40:06 amOr use a non-insulated terminal with adhesive lined heat shrink.Easy enough to source the parts, and it's usually cheaper (labor costs aren't a deciding factor).

author: rolycat
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 01:00:23 pm
content: Quote from: sleemanj on June 16, 2015, 11:21:08 pmThose look a bit screwy in terms of the colour coding. The yellow crimp slot seems to be sized for 0.25mm2wires rather than the standard 4.0-6.0mm2.

author: LukeW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 01:03:58 pm
content: In terms of the generic cheap tools for doing those red/blue/yellow insulated generic connectors, be sure to get one with a ratchet mechanism. The very low-end non-ratchet ones are just rubbish.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 01:11:23 pm
content: Quote from: rolycat on June 17, 2015, 01:00:23 pmThere is such a thing as a small yellow size. There's also, although I haven't seen one in years, green.

author: rolycat
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 01:18:36 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on June 17, 2015, 01:11:23 pmI can well believe it. Not much use to the average punter with a box of the standard type, though

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 01:51:51 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on June 17, 2015, 01:11:23 pmOne of my insulated terminal dies is marked with a green dot. Wire size stamped in it is 26 - 22AWG/0.1 - 0.4mm^2.When I look for terminals of that size, all the photos I'm seeing show yellow insulation, so perhaps they're used interchangeably for this size?

author: m100
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 02:48:13 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on June 17, 2015, 01:11:23 pmAlso bootlace ferrules, with at least two very different colour coding standards, French and German.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 07:14:40 pm
content: Quote from: m100 on June 17, 2015, 02:48:13 pmThere's at least one more standard for those, where 6mm² is yellow.

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2015, 08:41:45 am
content: The same crimp tool will do both, if you use what most electricians do. A pair of side cutters.

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2015, 08:55:40 am
content: Quote from: rolycat on June 17, 2015, 01:00:23 pmHah, I never noticed that, looks like the one the vendor photographed was painted backwards.Here's mine in the flesh (exact same product, DN-02C), it has red as smallest and yellow as largest, as is the more typical coding.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2015, 09:30:14 am
content: For the OP's requirements, probably the Narva 56504BL would do what he needs.Of all the cheap and nasty crimpers it's the best that I've come across.At a glance we all know what we sould be using for the perfect job, but seeing he asked he doesn't.Is he likely to use it more than a few times for the rest of his days?I'll go months without using mine.http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/tools

author: sean0118
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2015, 08:38:18 am
content: Hey everyone,I ended up getting the Knipex 97 52 36. It was only $110+gst from RS which was the cheapest price I could find in Australia. That's got to be the first time RS has been the cheapest for anything...I've already used it a bunch and I expect to keep it for a long time, it's sturdy and crimps very well. Thanks again everyone.http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-tools/4920150/

author: rvalente
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 12:32:19 am
content: For industrial crimps, Weidmuller has the best tooling (IMHO)http://www.weidmueller.com/110802/Products/Tools/Crimping/cw_index_v2.aspx

author: Marc M.
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2015, 12:28:45 pm
content: Short answer - These:http://www.ebay.com/itm/S-G-Tool-Aid-18980-Master-Ratcheting-Terminal-Crimper-Set-/191305543811?hash=item2c8ab2f083&item=191305543811&vxp=mtrLong, drawn out, meandering answer:Most of my 30+ years of working for the man have been spent in consumer electronics repair and industrial maintenance with a 3 year stint in electro-mechanical assembly building automated guided vehicles for GM, Chrysler, US Government (MX missile program), and many more. I've used every type of crimper imaginable from the cheapest sub-dollar to top shelf (Molex, Amp, TE, etc.) and crimped tens of thousands of various styles of terminals. Yes, the top shelf crimpers will make high quality consistent crimps for thousands of terminals without any issues provided the OEM terminals are used, the wire end is prepared properly, and the operator is qualified. The down side is they are typically very expensive and are usually specific to a few sizes of 1 style of terminal. Great for production, sucks for maintenance and casual uses like many here. For most of my life I used Thomas & Betts version of the Klein crimpers that Falcon69 pointed out. That style worked great because the jaws are over 1/4" (8mm) thick so most or all of the connector barrel gets swaged. They also have the 'tit' that sticks up in 1 jaw that really locked everything in place well making it difficult to mechanically pull the wire out without breaking. There is also a lot a variability in the size/thickness of both the barrel and the insulator between different brands of insulated terminals for the same color so a pair of crimpers that may do a decent job on A brand terminals may not do so well with B brand etc. so having the 'tit' helps assure a decent crimp on most brands. The caveat is that the 'tit' will often puncture or break the insulating sleeve around the barrel which could pose a safety issue which is why at some point they stopped selling that design for insulated terminals, designating them for use with un-insulated terminals only. With that in mind, they were great for personal use but not acceptable in the industrial environment at work.So I started sniffing around the net for a proper set of ratcheting crimpers for use at work that not only crimped the barrel, but also the insulation where the wire enters the connector. It's important to crimp on the insulation to help spread any stress on the copper over a larger area. If this step is skipped then mechanical stresses tend to concentrate right at the point the copper enters the metal portion of the connector and can work harden and break under moderate vibration. I work with a lot of different types of terminals so I wanted something that used interchangeable dies as well. I ended up purchasing this Tool Aid #18980 set off Fleabay for just under $100.00. It uses standard size dies and have a handy quick change die feature so you can swap out the dies in under 30 seconds. This set came with 9 sets of dies that covers a pretty wide range of connectors. There are 3 different die sets that cover most red/blue/yellow insulated connectors, 1 die for uninsulated connectors (4 sizes), 2 sets of dies that cover Weatherpack terminals and it looks like they'll work for Mate-N-Locs, Molex, and other connectors with that style of terminals. There's a die to do red and blue flag terminals, a hex die for RG-6/58/59 etc. coax connectors, and finally a die for preparing 8mm spark plug terminals. I also purchased a die set for 15, 30, and 45 Anderson Power Pole connectors off fleabay for $15.00 shipped which was a very nice bonus.Another tip for using insulated connectors in harsh environments (automotive, marine, industrial, etc.) is to pack silicone grease (I buy it local at the auto parts store) in both ends of the connector after it's crimped then slide heat shrink tubing over that and shrink it down. The silicone grease will prevent moisture from getting into the connection and the heat shrink not only protects the connection and keeps the grease in, it also acts as a strain relief reducing the chances of work hardening and breaking of the wire. It's also very inexpensive compared to buying them with the tubing and adhesive.Quote from: G7PSK on June 21, 2015, 08:41:45 amMost of the electricians I've worked with are utter hacks so that doesn't surprise me. The dollar store crimper jaws are probably 2mm thick and they don't properly swage the connector so let's use something that's sub-millimeter in width to make sure the connection is ever worse. That's OK, just wrap it with half a roll of electrical tape and she'll be right. Actually, the 2 'electricians' I work with would never use a crimp connector. They just use a wire nut and tape to spice in the replacement prox. switch 2" from the body so it's exposed to oil and slightly corrosive coolant which gets wicked up the cable into the body causing the switch to fail again. No offense intended to all the very sharp, qualified electricians that are out there as my sample size is very small at about 6 or 7. There's currently 2 in our department and that will likely drop to 1 at some point because it's a matter of time before the other one kills himself doing insanely stupid crap like hooking his handheld oscilloscope straight across 2 phases on a live 480vac 1000amp bus ductand then 'schooled' me regarding CAT ratings when I tried to explain to him how incredibly stupid and dangerous that was. When I asked him if the both channels on his scope were fully isolated from each other he retorted that I was just being an arrogant asshole because I was jealous of his scope.Last week I found issues with 2 of the 3 power factor correction units in our plant. Neither of the 'electricians' had a clue what they did or how they worked. To be fair the other 3 'non-electrician' technicians including the boss didn't have a clue either. Then I did something really stupid - I tried to explain capacitive and inductive reactance, real power, apparent power, etc. to the group. For those wondering, I'm currently an industrial maintenance/CNC technician for a mid sized machine shop (about 100 machining centers). And yes, I think what a bunch of pus**es when you guys freak out about any voltages over 30v

author: IdahoMan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2016, 04:35:56 am
content: Quote from: Marc M. on September 12, 2015, 12:28:45 pmPrice is nice.Where are they made? Anybody else here have experience with them?Thanks.IM

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2016, 01:05:49 pm
content: Quote from: rolycat on June 17, 2015, 01:00:23 pmScrewy colors on an LSD brand tool? I am shocked, just shocked!

author: Nuzzler
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2016, 03:36:51 pm
content: Quote from: Falcon69 on June 16, 2015, 05:16:34 amDitto on the Klein crimper. In addition to the Klein I have theTricrimpfor PP connectors which is great, though spendy. You can get various dies for it to crimp other stuff too.- Nuzz

author: Wolf
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 15, 2016, 06:29:26 am
content: I have been using the kline type crimpers for years but I may have to give that S-G set a shot, looks niceAnd good tip about the silicon added to the connectors + dual wall heat shrink going to have to try it, I do a lot of work on commercial snow removal trucks and the wire splices always end up rotting out no matter what (even solder + dual wall shrink)...

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2016, 10:06:06 am
content: Quote from: Wolf on September 15, 2016, 06:29:26 amUse non-insulated terminals and adhesive lined heat shrink & fill any gaps with a non-hygroscopic hot melt glue, namely polyethylene (PE is a quite good moisture barrier, sticks to most any other polymer, remains flexible over a wide temp range, and has good to excellent dielectric properties).You end up making your own heat shrink terminals this way at a much lower cost, which is what you'd want for the applications you mention.

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2016, 04:28:38 am
content: Yeah sounds like you definitely need adhesive-lined heat shrink for the salt trucks. Some guys make their own using plain heat shrink by slicing up some hot glue sticks and adding a strip of glue alongside the joint before applying heat to melt the glue at the same time as the shrink tubing gets shrunk.I've got one of the SG master crimp sets too. The dies are interchangeable with my Ideal brand ratchet crimper as well. They seem to work pretty well, the quick change system for the dies is pretty cool but I wish the levers were metal rather than plastic - they make me nervous.

author: bicc1306
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2016, 02:04:32 pm
content: Insulated Crimper (KLEIN TOOLS) may useful to you.