hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Fluke 8842A multimeter fuse holder - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Geo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 04, 2017, 06:49:24 pm
content: Hi GuysFluke 8842A multimeter fuse holder required.Just bought a Fluke 8842A on ebay but has a missing front panel fuse holder (2A 250V). Was wondering if anyone had a spare (or knew of any) that I could buy?? I have attached a picture of the front panel (without the fuse holder) for clarity, its the twist type with the fuse sitting behind the 4mm banana socket.Appreciate any help.Thanks
Philips/Fluke PM9355 current probe/amplifier (Service) manual anyone? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: qno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 03:23:33 pm
content: Hi all,I aquired a Philips PM 9355 Current probe/amplifier combination.Seems to weork but the measurements are a bit of.It needs a 50 ohm scope input but someone has had a go at it and put a 50 ohm resistor in the case itself.Does anyone has a manual or service manual i can consult for calibration?Or a link i can go to to verify / repair the probe?Thanks.qno

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2017, 07:07:17 pm
content: Tell us if this one is OK:http://freeservicemanuals.info/nl/servicemanuals/viewmanual/Philips/PM9355/

author: qno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2017, 03:26:16 pm
content: Great, many thanks.
Futuba VFD replacement? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: PaulAm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2017, 11:06:37 pm
content: I'm repairing an old HP DesignJet plotter and I have an unreadably dim VFD display. I had a used replacement, which is at least readable, but it's still not as bright as I'd like.This is a Futuba US202SD01A display which is a 2x20 VFD with the associated support circuitry and uses a 5 pin serial interface connector. Apparently, somebody has reverse engineered the protocol and there's a library available to drive the display from an Arduino, but I'm coming up blank on a display replacement.Anyone have a NOS unit gathering dust? Maybe just the VFD? Doesn't look like fun to remove and replace it, but it's doable.

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2017, 11:23:46 pm
content: I replaced mine with a 2x20 LCD but there are "issues" with special characters and it most certainly won't work with anything other than English. That Futaba display has a plethora of special characters and you only have space for 8 in the LCD. I toyed with a dynamic loader to load them as needed but it was more hassle than it was worth.I reverse engineered the protocol and wrote a converter for the Parallax Propeller. That was years ago now, I'll have a look and see if I can find the code. It's a funky protocol.mfrom memory it starts out 8 bit and then switches to a 10 bit stream after boot up.I had no luck sourcing credible vfd replacements.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2017, 12:24:14 am
content: 2x20 VFDs are fairly standard, you may be able to transfer the glass from a similar display to the board on yours but beware some of the modern ones are "chip on glass" with an internal driver.You can also rejuvenate VFDs, have a look online. Essentially you boost the filament voltage to burn off contaminates and expose a new layer of emissive oxides, similar to rejuvenating tired CRTs. VFDs are essentially inside-out flood gun CRTs.

author: PaulAm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2017, 02:18:49 am
content: Well some more looking and I found some NOS Futuba NA202SD08FA displays which appear to use the same display and the same driver chips. I have a couple on order and we'll see if they work out.This display has all the leads on one side.An alternative would be to get a current display and put in a protocol converter, but that's more work than I really want to do. Transferring the display will be bad enough.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2017, 04:16:14 am
content: Have you tried rejuvenating it? I found the page I was thinking about, turns out it's right here on eevblog.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/vacuum-fluorescent-display-rejuvenation/

author: PaulAm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2017, 01:35:50 pm
content: I'll give it a shot and see what happens; it might be good enough.
Help to identify smd chip V5s 55 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: gillyflower
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 02, 2017, 02:38:42 pm
content: Hi guys,First time poster so please be gentle.I think this device may be a voltage reg but I cant find anything matching online.Cant be too exotic I wouldnt think. It looks like a sot 457 but with 5 pins the lower rightmost being double width.It is in a professional LED light by THELIGHT called a VELVET 1. No info from the manufacturer of courseAny help would be much appreciated.Thanks guys

author: ElektronikLabor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2017, 12:10:22 pm
content: A picture of the PCB could help.Quick google search:http://www.smdcode.com/en/smd/code/v5-rt9167-2hpb-linear-voltage-regulator-integrated-circuit-23121/

author: gillyflower
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 03, 2017, 12:55:00 pm
content: Hi Medvedev,Many thanks for the super quick replyYes that reg looks plausible. Interestingly Google didnt offer me that site in my search results.I've attached a pic.I have the light working now (and I dont know how, and that bothers me) While I was testing voltages I accidentally shorted a resistor not shown here to an unpopulated pad and the light just started working. Not something I usually try to do of course but shit happens. Since then I have run the light for a couple of hours and also left it disconnected overnight. Still works fine?? Never seen that before. Stray charge on something that the designer left floating?Thanks again for taking the time hereVery much appreciated.Gillian.
3458 Ram Test 1 Low - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2017, 02:23:39 pm
content: Well i guess it's my time.I just got a Ram Test 1 Low , when powering up my 58' , it's been off for 3..4 months.A power off/on cleared the error , but i suppose the battery has gone low/weak on one of my Dallas ram's.I just got the 2 data FRAMS from this thead , and i'm waiting for the cal FRAM (I have a backup of the calram via gpib)https://xdevs.com/fix/hp3458a_u4/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/metrology/yes-another-3458a-repair-and-nvram-replacement-to-ramtron-fram/?allThe Ram Test 1 id cured by replacing the data RAMS with FRAMs correct ?No mods are needed on the SOIC adapters on the data FRAMs correct ?I'll start looking if i have 2 x SOIC-28 to dip for the data FRAMS , and another to mod for the CAL-Fram.I'll also check if i have 2 x 28-pin and a 24-pin machined socket in the drawer.But for now all i loose is any customs settings correct ?/Bingo

author: TiN
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2017, 04:32:59 pm
content: QuoteYou are volt-nut criminal! I always feel bad when 3458 have no life-critical important resistor or LTZ-reference measurement ongoing for a day...QuoteTrue.QuoteTrue.QuoteCorrect, hotkeys and settings stored in main RAM.

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2017, 05:00:49 pm
content: Quote from: TiN on February 01, 2017, 04:32:59 pmI usually use the 3457 for doing daily logging stuff , and just the 58' if i need to measure Geller or LTZ/Bingo

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2017, 03:52:07 pm
content: Quote from: bingo600 on February 01, 2017, 02:23:39 pmin all my tests the F-RAM replacement for DS1230 (I made no mods) worked without any problems, but I have only made quick tests and put back the Dallas Chips afterwards

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2017, 04:48:20 pm
content: Quote from: quarks on February 02, 2017, 03:52:07 pmThanx quarksI think i'll wait for the CAL-FRAM before installing all 3/Bingo
FIXED: Toshiba C50-B, LA-B301P (no power) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Inflex
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2017, 12:10:47 pm
content: This was going to be a "Please help" post but I ended up repairing it after slapping myself around and telling myself I didn't NEEEEEED to have a boardview ( as much as it makes life a bit easier ).Laptop came in with "no power", which in the past I've found to mean anything from legitimately no power, through to "boots to a black windows screen".Thankfully there was a schematic for this one, alas, as mentioned, no boardview ( you have to realise how much that hurts me, I want to use my software).Needless to say, after farting around for an hour or so I found the culprit, fractured (shorted) decoupling cap on the main net feeding the battery charge circuit, not the first time I've encountered this failure, not just on this laptop.Video of the process is here -Photos of the culprit attached.
Sencore LC-102 Calibration Instructions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Bargainhunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2017, 10:20:51 pm
content: Anybody have a calibration manual?My unit is reading twice the value of capacitors.Thank you,Chuck

author: ruairi
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2017, 06:19:01 am
content: Here you go...

author: Bargainhunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2017, 11:11:19 am
content: Thank you very much.Chuck
Repairing a powersupply from OCZ GXS700 (FSP 700-80GLC(NEW)) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Hagis2k
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2015, 10:16:25 am
content: So hi there folks i am right now working on an old ocz psu that all thesecondary capacitors where bad on totally dried outSo i replaced 9 of them and now the psu is sort of working but if i put a load on anyof the outputs the voltage drops tried a 39r resistor on the 5V it went down to 3.9-4Von the 12V it went down to 9V didnt try it on the 3.3V one as it would be the same i assumedSo i am thinking there is something whack with the feedback just have to be and i alsorealize that i missed one cap on the board on the secondary side its a small one like22-47µf or so i assumeBut when i turn the power off from the input then the output voltage rises back up to around 12V or 5V to die out?! that sounds strangebut anyway i shall keep looking on the feedback circuit and check the values and connectionsIs it anyone who happens to have access to the right schematic of this psu ?

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2015, 04:14:10 am
content: load 12 rail more, at least 1 ampwhat you describe is how a normal modern (but not the super modern, those have additional dcdc and go down below 10 watt for stupid intel cpus) psu acts when 12 is not loaded enough

author: Hagis2k
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2015, 04:47:31 am
content: I tried loading it with a 6.8r resistor and then the voltage drops to 4.6-4.8V ill try hooking it up to more load and see

author: hooman008
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2017, 03:57:07 am
content: hi im sorry to bring up this old topic , but i have exactly the same problem as yours , i recap the same powersupply and i get the same problem the 5 volt is 4 the 12 is 11 something , and the pc just wont turn on , could u fix yours ? do u mind telling me how ? thanks
Dual brand, LCD touchscreen based car stereo - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rwgast_lowlevellogicdesin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 11:37:44 pm
content: I just bought a used toyota 4runner for work, which is wireless ISP and microwave back haul in the desert. The thing came with a dual brand touchscreen lcd head unit. The problem is the touch screen doesnt work!!! Now im not sure why a touchscreen would fail besides a loose connector, but if I remove the head unit and open it up what are the chances I can get touch working again? See I have already converted a MacMini to linux and converted it to run on 12v. I wanted to make a special screen for GPS and Software Defined radio, but im not even sure how dvi out converted to a composite input on a wide lcd will look. I use a mounted laptop arm/table and laptop for work related stuff.Having dual fix the screen is 80 buck and they are 99 new so thats a bit dumb, and if I buy a new head unit i will spend money to get hdmi in, but id rather use what i have!

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 08:44:20 pm
content: Look for loose connections, the touch digitizer is often connected separately, it could either be a nice capacitive screen or one of the cheap resistive types.Personally I hate touchscreens though. I tolerate it on my phone and GPS but for a head unit just give me a knob and an array of nicely laid out buttons that I can operate by feel.
Philips TV suddenly won't turn on - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: MatiB
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 01:33:00 am
content: My TV doesn't turn on, not even the standby red LED. When I plug it, it first makes a continuous noise before it starts making a "clicking" noise. The controller and side buttons don't do anything. The model is Philips 32PFL4007D/77. I've checked all capacitors and they are ok. Also, the 5, 12 and 24 volts lines are all producing the correct voltage. The sound comes from the power supply board, and not from the speakers. I would appreciate any help with this, thanks.

author: BMack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 03:45:03 am
content: Check the cost on a replacement main board.

author: MatiB
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 04:43:53 pm
content: Quote from: wilfred on January 31, 2017, 02:58:43 amHi, I've only checked if they are bulging or if they aren't properly soldered or came loose. What else could I try to make sure they are ok?In some questions I've seen online, people sugested checking the capacitors because they could prevent the power supply board from generating enough power, if any at all, and cause the main board to attempt to continually reset the power supply and cause the clicking noise.Quote from: BMack on January 31, 2017, 03:45:03 amChanging the board could be a solution, although an expensive one. The only problem is that I don't know if the problem is in the main board or the power supply board.If anyone knows what else I could check to narrow the problem it would be great

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 04:45:57 pm
content: Electrolytic capacitors often fail without any visible signs, you really need an ESR meter to check them. Lacking that, the shotgun approach of just replacing all of them is a viable option. I would first check the power supply, are the outputs labeled?

author: MatiB
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 05:20:20 pm
content: Quote from: james_s on January 31, 2017, 04:45:57 pmI don't have an ESR meter, is there any other test I could make?The power supply outputs to the mainboard, and the cable is labeled. It has 5v, 12v, 24v, GND, PS_ON, P_OK, ON/OFF. When I checked with the multimeter all the voltages were ok, although slightely lower (like 200mV).

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 08:09:37 pm
content: That suggests that the power supply is ok. You could look on ebay for a new main board, sometimes you can find them cheap from TVs with a broken panel. It can be really hard to troubleshoot these things at a component level because they're so tightly integrated and virtually no service information is available.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 08:21:44 pm
content: Quote from: MatiB on January 31, 2017, 05:20:20 pmIs the P-ON+21V line voltage normal?Check if there is any leak or short-circuiting on the primary circuit component, and service it if defective.(D601, D602, D603, D604, Q601, Q602, T601)
GHD Straighteners( 4.2b model) r8 and r11 connection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: buzz403
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 12:14:11 pm
content: hello, im trying to repair my daughters GHD straighteners 4.2b, iv replaced R8 in the past and all ok, it appears to have gone again, and maybe R11, the issue I have is that the circuit board connection appears to have come off when soldering, so im looking to see where the connections are between these resister in the hope I can then bridge the connection with suitable link, any help would be appreciated, thank you.again, the model are 4.2b, as they have both R11+R8 along side each, I assume they're in parallel, but cant make out the actual connections..

author: jc101
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 03:13:57 pm
content: Have a look athttp://www.ghdspares.co.uk/zencart/for spares, they have pics of all sorts of boards for all the versions, they list two versions of the 4.2b model.Failing thathttp://www.ghdrepair.co.ukdo fixed price repairs, although most of the faults are command and easy to fix if you know where to look and have the bits.Not linked with either site, but have used them to buy spares for repairs in the past.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 03:28:32 pm
content: Quote from: buzz403 on January 30, 2017, 12:14:11 pmMaybe you should provide a photo to show where you have broken the traces.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 02:56:01 am
content: Quote from: buzz403 on January 30, 2017, 12:14:11 pmWelcome to the forum.I've not long fixed a GHD straightener for my daughter in law and the model specific info was not hard to find online but do follow the links within links.That one had the classic open resistors but these were MELF's with a 1 W rating. Paralleled a pair TH resistors of 2x the value and folded the leads like reverse gull wing and just managed to get it all small and low enough to fit with no problems.

author: buzz403
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 04:57:41 pm
content: thank you for the reply and advice, iv replaced both R11+R8, and connected the link, as I feel it should have been, iv added a pict showing the connections iv made in Red and new resistors in blue, would you know if this is correct?also, since the repair, when I switch them on, all I get is the LED ON and a continuous bleeping noise now, doesn't heat up though.. appreciate any advice on the subject, or should I just replace the pcb from the repair website listed by Armadillo?

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 06:13:55 pm
content: Quote from: buzz403 on January 31, 2017, 04:57:41 pmSee the FAQ below [shiver mode]; if it didn't help,Check the thermal fuse, thermistor, heater element, economically is not viable to change so many things.Watch the videoBest Regards;
68 Pin PLCC Socket required for reverse connection.  Help.. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Mamejay
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 05:37:59 am
content: Hello everyone,Not sure if you can help but I am repairing an accelerator board for an Amiga computer.The board clips onto the SMD 68000 CPU. The board I have had a damaged PLCC connector. I ordered a replacement from China but when it arrived I found that it would not clip on like the original one. The connector is a through hole.Looks like there would be a particular type that is required. I have asked around in the Amiga community but not getting any joy.Attached is a picture of an existing board I have and also a stock photo of the accelerator connected to the computer.Hope someone can help.Thanks

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 06:13:35 am
content: Did you google the 3M part number? Well Gain Electronics, USA, claim to have stock.

author: Mamejay
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 06:28:42 am
content: Yeah I did but it looks different to this one. Also when ordering 2 the shipping cost cane up as $105usd

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 07:00:17 am
content: Maybe ask those guys who make that crazy fpga accel i think they use the same piggyback sort of dealhttp://www.apollo-accelerators.com/

author: Mamejay
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 07:54:21 am
content: Quote from: sleemanj on January 31, 2017, 07:00:17 amAlready emailed them and also the company that makes the one I am trying to repair.

author: Moshly
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 08:01:11 am
content: Hi, all I can find on that pat number is that it is just a standard socket.It is available here ->https://wellgainelectronics.com/1397_3mFrom what I have seen, they are just normal sockets that have had the top edge sanded down to the top of the pins. Also they have had a cut-out made in the shell to slip over a SMD cap on the mainboard.Some sockets may also need some plastic removed from the inside flat area so the socket sits flat on the chip.I have one of these and have found the whole arrangement very susceptible to poor connections.I found that it makes a better fit if you use desolder braid on the edge of the CPU pins to remove all the solder that may have wicked up during the original soldering process. (clean pins thoroughly with PCB cleaner)When installing the board, take the main PCB out of the case and press both together to make the best fit (with it in the case the PCB bends and it will never go together properly.)Then (pressing on the center of the socket) grab the right side of the ACA620 PCB and move it slightly (parallel to the main board) towards the keyboard connector, jiggle it back and forth a few times (this will seat all the pins that may not have a good grip on the chip) Now test the system, if all good bolt it down using the supplied mounting hardware and re-install into the case.Note: these things cook at ~70c if not cooled, add a small 5V fan (take pwr from the crystal) see pic
Hisense F42K20E help please - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Beaube
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 01:27:50 am
content: I recently aquired this tv from a friend, thinking i could easily open it and find where the white smoke was let out. No such luck this time around, so to keep it short... I have a red standby light, when the power button is pressed nothing happens nor when you hold it. I have disconnected the led line and tried to power on along with the tcon, speakers, etc. I then tested the output voltages. I have 1-5v 2-12v and 2-14v all votages read normal except the 14v, they read 21v. Is this cause for concern?At this point where should i look? Power board or main board?

author: Beaube
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 03:21:51 am
content: Did a little more testing. I found when i unplugged themain board voltages were normal, but no 5v or stb power. Any help appreciated
Super extreme repair!? Chip level repair, not that modern component swapping!!! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mimmus78
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 01:30:13 am
content: https://youtu.be/_CvNe-JhjD4

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 02:07:33 am
content: Nice! Wonder how the hell he figured that one out.
Fluke 8060A repair help please? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mark hodsman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 08:40:01 pm
content: Apologies for posting this in test equipment. Probably more on theme here.I was merrily enjoying the reliability of the 8060A dmm and took a look at the power jack on the side and for the first time in its long history - I jammed in a 9V wall wart supply (not connected to mains btw). Since then it blew the bussman fuse and I can see no 5V anywhere on the board. Anyone help track down the potential problem? Im now without a meter but I can borrow a meter (albeit basic functions) as I did to test for fuse failure etc.Thanks in advance. I do have the schematic btw

author: voltz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 08:58:43 pm
content: Hi,A link to the schematic would be useful for other readers. However i have a PDF of it here so i would suggest check for voltage at TP1 and Q1 FET from battery. This is assuming the fault was created by an unsuitable power supply and not some other fault condition.

author: mark hodsman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 09:06:14 pm
content: Yes I can confirm that apart from 9V battery voltage at one or two locations on the board there is no other +5V or -5V. There was no magic smoke or drama. IT was display blanked and that was that. I have checked TP1.There was no power applied with the wall wart though. It was merely just inserting the jack into the socket that caused the fault

author: mark hodsman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 09:31:12 pm
content: Yes I checked TP3. Thats close to the Zener VR1? zilch. I guess it must be the MAC chip then which is a bit catastrophic given that no voltage was actually applied. Just an unplugged wall wart. Seems very terminal I think...{

author: voltz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 11:00:39 pm
content: For reference, there's a good blog here including a list of TP voltages:http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8060a-repair/and manual here:http://media.fluke.com/documents/8060a___imeng0300.pdf

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 11:40:37 pm
content: Quote from: mark hodsman on January 29, 2017, 09:06:14 pmThe DC coax jack contains a switch that disconnects the battery. Look inside the jack to make sure the leaf is not hung up or not making contact for some reason. Simple stuff first...

author: mark hodsman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 09:14:16 pm
content: Mr Modemhead....its fixed. Thats what it was/is a faulty contacting switch.Many thanks for everyones help.

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 09:59:44 pm
content: Quote from: mark hodsman on January 30, 2017, 09:14:16 pm
Chromebook power port fix - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: drogersmvsd
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 29, 2016, 05:20:25 pm
content: Hi all,I posted this on other forums with no response hoping maybe i will get some info here.I created a tutorial to replace the damaged parts for hp's use, after receiving the tutorial they informed me of a mistake i made when selecting replacement part i used a 1.8 amp usb they told me it should be 3 amp.I tested the amperage and sure enough it does do a 3 amp draw..So, I have been on a parts quest for a year now hoping the manufacture will give me a part number for a charging micro-usb port but they have not.It is a hp g1 chromebook power usb port.3 Amp micro, Right Angle, Horizontal, board cutout smd.apparently only pins 1 and 5 are needed to be 3 amp as they are the power / ground pins.Also I have contacted newark, mouser, and digi-keys staff but I was informed that there are no 3 amp micro usb parts. Which is not true at all.here is some pics, on top of the usb it says t372Thanks all,Don

author: rickb863@gmail.com
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 03:47:12 am
content: Hi Don. Did you ever find the correct port for this? I am having the same issue and cannot find the correct port. Thanks for any information you might have.

author: elecman14
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 08:50:27 pm
content: Not 100% sure this would be a mechanical fit but here is a 3A micro usb:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/wurth-electronics-inc/629105150521/732-5960-1-ND/5047555
Some one with KADA 936D+ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: RavenSpy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 07:15:14 pm
content: Hi,I need some help, because i touch something i dont want to touchSome one with this soldering station (Kada 936D+) can mesure the voltage as picture?Thanks in advicePD: I attach the schematic too
Help with SMPS Ampere meter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Viral
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 07:56:20 pm
content: Hey guys,Few months ago i bought an AXIOMET 3005 DS power supply and it's great. The problem is that now it shows 0.5 Amps current draw when nothing is connected to the output.After 1 month of moderate usage, it began to show 0.03 A under no load, then it was showing 0.120 A under no load and now shows 0.5 Amps.If i connect a load that draws more than 0.5 amps, let's say 1.3 Amps, it shows the right value, but after i remove the load goes back to 0.5 amps in stand by.The voltage reacts ( goes down) if i turn the CC nob to zero.I had some short circuits on the output couple of times, but it has protection. Maybe this may have damaged the sensor ?Is there an easy fix for this ?Thank you

author: jeroen79
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 07:10:08 pm
content: Odd that it deteriorated over time.Can you see any defective components?Measure the difference between the indicated current and the actual current at several currents.Then see where the indicated current is right and where it is wrong.You should try to figure out whether the meter is wrong or the power supply.There will be a current sense resistor somewhere. (well below 1 ohm)What's it's value and what voltage do you measure across it at a given current?Insert a multimeter at various points in the output circuit to see how much current actually flows and if there is a leak somewhere.Isolate the sense resistor and meter and send a known current through it and see what is indicated on the meter.
Another wonky 8050A (not LCD related) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Blastcap
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 10:55:46 am
content: Yay.. another 8050AI've had a 8050 for a while, and its been annoying me for a while.The symptoms are:When switching between measurements modes it very often sticks in dB mode, and after a few tries (switching between two modes) i gets it to stay in the right mode.When measuring the reading ... kinda freezes, it stays at a value and slowly decrease (1 count/s), even going into negative. Example: I measure 05,210V in (20V range), takes the probes away and it stays at 05,210V, then decrease at a rate of 00,001V/s. Shorting the probes does nothing, changing rage or mode, usually leads to Symptom 1.Does anyone have any ideas, or cleaning advice that could help?

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 06:41:19 pm
content: Quote from: Blastcap on January 30, 2017, 10:55:46 amMaybe deoxit
LCD 4K TV horizontal stripes?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: onesixright
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 10:36:07 am
content: Hey Guys,Below a PIC of a broken 4K TV, it has some horizontal stripes (top to bottom).Anybody a clue what the probemmightbe? Any change of a quick fixor is this a a typicalstay-away-project?

author: KhronX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 01:44:08 pm
content: That photo's a bit on the tiny side, and... Any chance you could take one with a solid white background?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 01:48:31 pm
content: Yeah, quick fix by replacing a whole LCD panel as it is mechanically broken.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 02:52:52 pm
content: LCD impact damaged, it's a stay away project.

author: Codebird
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 12:08:13 am
content: It's possible - just possible - that you might just have some bad solder joins on the PCB, and a wave of a hot-air gun over them will fix it. But that's a long shot - the chances of it working are a thousand to one. You can give it a try, but more realistically it's all but certain that the entire LCD will need replacing. Good luck finding one of the exact same type.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 12:41:19 am
content: Connections (they areveryfine-pitch) between LCD glass and driver ICs have failed. Maybe a bit of pressure and heat may fix them, but it's unlikely to last.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 08:42:49 am
content: Quote from: amyk on January 29, 2017, 12:41:19 amIf you look below the stripes on the top part, there are obvious cracks in the glass along the whole screen.

author: kripton2035
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 08:59:43 am
content: a 4K TV is likely still under warranty, you should use it to repair this problem.of course if the lcd is broken, the warranty will not work...

author: onesixright
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 09:03:23 am
content: Thank you all.It was for sale, bad pictures. Wasn't sure what to look for, thoughtmaybejust something with the display driver.With the comments here, a walk-away project. Case closedThanks for the feedback!

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 02:50:38 am
content: you can clearly see whole left edge is cracked
HP1742A HV  POwer Supply Fault  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: vk6wa
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 03, 2017, 08:56:23 am
content: Hi,I have a HP1742A with an HV supply problem. The LV supply seems to be delivering the correct voltages according to the service manual. F1 in the HV supply is blown. Also the HF OSC transistor Q1 is suspect. The fuse I found fitted was a 1.5A slow blow and not a 1.0A as per the schematic. The switching transistor Q1 was marked as a MJE2801 but I can't be certain as it is nearly illegible. It appears to be a TO3P case outline. Any ideas would be most appreciated?Kind regards,Leigh HarrisonSchematic attached.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2017, 07:13:02 am
content: I would start by testing that transistor, does it test shorted?
I need service manual of mobo POS-PIQ67CG - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: SAUL BRITTO
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 10:08:28 pm
content: Has anybody, the user manual for this mobo? POS-PIQ67CG. I am trying to know if it is totally compatible with I3 2120 second generation

author: KhronX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 05:24:20 pm
content: The 6-series chipsets was made to go with the Sandy Bridge CPUs, but they don't support the next generation (Ivy Bridge).The 7-series chipsets support both Ivy and Sandy Bridge CPUs.Going by the "Q67" in the model number, it's safe to assume that any LGA1155 Sandy Bridge CPU should work fine.
Heathkit IO-105 refurbishing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: grtyvr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 06:05:24 am
content: I just got myself an old Heathkit IO-105 dual channel 15MHz analog scope. Is it worth refurbishing this? And where might I find a service manual for it?

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 03:26:28 pm
content: Hello, it is usual to make a small presentation during his first post on the forum.It's not an obligation, but it's more polite and more friendly.Anyway, welcome to this forum.The Heathkit IO-105 is a dual channel version of the IO-104 which can be easily found on the Internet.For example:Http://www.heathkit.nu/heathkit_nu_IO-104.htmlSchematics of IO-104 can help a lot.This is an oscilloscope that suffers from some problems like drift and instabilities.It was a kit and therefore it depends of the skill of the person who soldered it.So, do not invest much in such an oscilloscope.You talk about "refurbishing" ..... why not just just put it back in running order?There is probably little to do: to clean contacts, potentiometers, test and recalibrate.Also check the electrolytic capacitors and change those that are out of tolerance.Nothing really difficult.Good luck

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 03:52:26 pm
content: A lot of people here have champagne appetites on your pocketbook. These basic scopes are more than sufficient for learning electronics. Every piece of electronic test equipment has limitations. Learning to work around these is an important lesson. I wouldn't do anything to it till a problem is obvious and you have a full understanding.
Unknown part in a LeCroy Power Supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: wonsel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 04, 2017, 05:20:58 pm
content: I bought aLeCroy LC334AM. When I switch it on, the house-fuse blows out. The reason is an unknown part in the powersupply that sticks on the side of the filter LF1. It is connected to E3, E4 and E6 and seems to be another filter. Unfortunately the only manual I have is from the LC574A and that part isn't described there.- can anyone identify it?- where can I get it?- does anyone have an LC334AM servicemanual?

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2017, 05:54:29 pm
content: These automatically switch between 240 and 120. These circuits have a habit of failing Connect the electrolytics for doubling on 120 or leave open for 240.

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2017, 06:39:47 pm
content: Internal circuit looks like attached.Prone to failure. Disable it as recommended above.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2017, 06:53:41 pm
content: Just remove the unit completely and it will work perfectly, provided you did not blow up the bridge rectifier diodes CR01 in the failure, and the power switch transistor survived having 800V applied to it.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2017, 01:53:33 pm
content: Ah so that's what these things are.I seen one in a Tektronix pattern generator i repaired and it seamed strange to me that they specified a +/- % tolerance for both 110 and 220 volt operation separately, i have just assumed its universal input PSU like all the cellphone chargers are these days that work on anything from 80V to 250V. I bought it from the US and i didn't want to blow it up in case it was set up for 110V while we only use 220V here. The PSU in there was fine tho.Still a better idea than what keithley does in some of there gear where they have a relay switch the taps on a transformer, but it goes in to 110V mode by default so they have a series resistor on the mains side to limit the saturation current. This makes the transformer buzz quite loudly until half a second later a relay clicks in to put it in to 220V mode.
Sencore LC102 Dielectric Absorption Calibration - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Jecarroll7
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 08:21:31 pm
content: I have a Sencore LC102 that I believe needs repair and calibration.Relays seem to work okay, don’t get any errors and Capacitor Values are in the park but not perfect.However I’ve have a problem with Dielectric Absorption, ESR and sometimes Leakage testsVisually, everything looks okay inside. I have a relatively new power supply and lead set both purchased from Sencore a few years ago.Following Sencore’s calibration instructionsPower Supply:- On step 7. The .975vdc bounced around a bit +-0.040 or so- Same for step 9.Capacitance Calibration:- On step 3. Adjusting for a 1500pF value, R55 bottomed out at 1565pF (pretty sure its not the cap as I have two different model DVMs with capacitance value capability and both of those were very close to the 1500) I'm guessing some of the components inside the LC102 changed value over time? Or its part of a larger conspiracy?- Step 8 is where I ran into problems, I did hear relays kick in, but looking for 417mA on my DVM I got no DVM reading of any mA, turning the adjustment pot R80 in either direction had no effect.That’s where I stopped. Wondering if anyone had a suggestion?

author: ruairi
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 06:40:38 am
content: It might be obvious but are you sure that your probes are plugged into the correct socket on your multimeter to measure current?
ICS 9LPRS441 pinout - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: SAUL BRITTO
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 04:49:06 am
content: Does anyone have the pinout to ICS 9LPRS441, I am trying to find it on the internet but, I can't to find it. It is a clock generator of asus mobo.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 04:06:26 pm
content: Is this a CK410 or CK505 generator? Perhaps there are some similar models from other manufacturers with same pinout.You can also try asking IDT directly via email: pcclockhelp @ idt.com

author: SAUL BRITTO
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 05:01:56 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on January 28, 2017, 04:06:26 pmThank you Amyk.
Tektronix TDS 310 won't boot - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: powder-phun
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 11:00:45 am
content: About a year ago it worked perfectly fine. Then it spent about a year on a shelf in a magazine somewhere and now it won't boot. When i press the power button, the fan starts up, I can hear the relays, and all the LEDs on the front light up, but that's all. They never turn off, the screen stays blank. The official service manual states, that this is a problem with the main board, or the cable connecting it to the front panel.http://www.mdc.umn.edu/facility/files/electrical/Elec%20Manuals/Tektronix%20TDS%20320%20Two%20Channel%20Oscilloscope.pdf(page 131)Sadly, the cable is 100% working, so the problem has to be with the main board. There are no visual signs of anything burned or broken off, all the voltages are correct. Do you have any idea what should i check next? Could the dallas DS1630AB-120 be at fault? I've heard that Tektronix had a big problem with SMT electrolytics at the time, but i can't see any.Photo of the main board:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4MInAcJQ5DbQXhVTDEzQmVpcjA

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 12:20:25 pm
content: It looks like there is some moisture damage at the right side of U705 (ADG250B).

author: powder-phun
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 05:05:14 pm
content: Yes, there was some gunk, which i cleaned off (didn't help). Strangely, there is also no calibration signal, so most probably the front panel processor isn't working. I've checked it's supply voltage and the clock signal, both seem ok.
Need repair done on an old sony SW1. Where's a good place to send it? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: nonameo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 01:34:25 am
content: Hi, I have an old sony ICF-SW1 that has the buzzing problem with the audio. Do you guys have some recommendations for where to send it? I want someone who does this regularly and will keep it as like-stock as possible. I live in the United States.

author: JoeO
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 02:00:02 am
content: Do you have the Buzz when it is on batteries or when it is running off of a wall wart?

author: nonameo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 02:21:44 am
content: Sadly, both.
ZD-937 - Problem reading temperature - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mau80
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 07:42:35 am
content: Hi,I've a problem with this soldering station, it always shows TEMP 428°C, even if i detach the solder cable I get TEMP 428°C.I've replaced the heating resistance and termocouple, the soldering iron temperature is hight, but it always display 428°C.Let me know if I can provide other details to you.Thank you very much to all!Maurizio

author: mau80
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 10:54:45 pm
content: Hi to all,I've solve the problem. This model use 4 din connector, I've used following connections:1 Heat2 Thermocouple +3 Thermocouple -4 HeatMaurizio
Flash memory dump for Atten ADS1022C+ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tackleberry
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 04, 2015, 10:20:57 am
content: HelloI need a flash memory dump for Atten ADS 1022C+ with CA_M_101000 main board and 5" LCD display. Scope was uprade by LeCroy Waveace 101 firmware. Now its like a plant...Flash type: S29GL064N.

author: Aleksei-bird
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 08:33:13 pm
content: Subscribe to the issue, there is somebody dump flash?
Hitachi V-1050 Scope with Frozen Volts/Division Knob - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 24, 2016, 11:37:41 pm
content: So long, and thanks for all the fish.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2016, 07:39:40 pm
content: I would strongly suspect either:1. Somebody's been in there and reassembled it incorrectly. Look for traces ofnot sohandywork.2. The mechanism is broken or jammed by a foreign object.Careful detective skills required so expect anything and everything. Keep your eyes open while comparing it with the working channel.Let us know what you find as it will no doubt help others too.

author: paul57
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 04, 2017, 07:44:57 am
content: I stumbled on this post that recommends putting a couple drops of paint thinner in there to dissolve the petrified gunk between the metal shafts:http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/considering-upgrade-from-crusty-hitachi-v-1050-scope.130614/My V-1050 has the same problem; I don't have any paint thinner handy but I'll try it next chance I get. Hope it helps,-Paul

author: cvanc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2017, 12:57:06 pm
content: I had the same problem on an old HP spectrum analyzer; a couple of the knobs were frozen in their current positions.In my case the lubricant used on the (concentric) control shafts had petrified over the years. Solution was to carefully (with a syringe) work a solvent in to break down the old lube and then just as carefully replace with new oil. Good luck...

author: carl_lab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 07:44:56 pm
content: Some heat by a hair dryer or a heat gun could help to make the lubricant more fluid.When you can turn the shaft a little bit back and forth, paint thinner can work much better washing off the dirt.
Looking for ASUS W2000 Laptop service manual - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 09:52:13 am
content: I have an ASUS W2Vc laptop. It's one of the W2000 series.Does anyone have a copy of the service manual? I tried but failed to find.I have some PDFs with instructions to access some parts of the chassis but I need the full service info.