Need suggestions for bench build. Top of desk shelves? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kc9qvl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2014, 01:58:20 pm
content: So went to Ikea for the 1st time. Found their scratch and dent aisle and they had a corner table top and side extension for $ 5.00 each. So got them and legsAny Ideas for above desk shelving. Most stuff I saw not deep enough or not enough height between bottom shelf and table top. Wall mount shelves won't work due to large window in the way.The corner:http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60251335/The extension:http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00251338/

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2014, 02:06:59 pm
content: How about a long sheet of wood with support beams and short legs? Not difficult to make with some wood glue and screws.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 18, 2014, 05:31:34 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on January 18, 2014, 02:06:59 pm+1 You could get a half sheet of 1/2" MDF and some 2X2s from Home Depot. How are you intending to mount the tabletop? If you are going to build a frame, run some 2X4s up from the back, add tracks and use adjustable shelf brackets. They come in all sizes. If you are going to mount to the wall, do the shelf with legs thing. It is tough when space is limited. I am fortunate that I have a 9.5 by 22 foot room (extension on back of house) that has my office (work from home). The SWMBO has the rest of the house but this is my domain and is inviolate:). She lets me say that but she does say my office is a scary place with all the blinky shit(her words).

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2014, 06:29:44 pm
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on January 18, 2014, 05:31:34 pmThis is the method I'm currently working on.Shelf frame bolts to the rear table legs. Keeps the table surface open, and nothing mounted to the walls or window frame (also have a window directly behind my bench).Only difference, is I've built it out of steel (1.5"angle). Shelves are 3/4" particle board w/ melamine/formica top & front edge. Table top is 62.5" wide, so there's a 3rd adjustable bracket in the middle, possibly going to put 2x there for split height shelving. Also using 1" angle to reinforce the shelving so it doesn't sag in the middle, as the older equipment I have is heavy (20 - 30lbs per on the larger pieces).

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 18, 2014, 08:08:44 pm
content: Nanofrog, my bench is 8' wide so I have 4 uprights spaced about 2' apart- the outer uprights start about 3" in from the end as the top overhangs the frame 3" on all sides except the back. They extend up about 30" so I have 3 shelves starting about 12" up from the work surface. I don't do split shelving, but I am considering it for better monitor placement. I am getting ready to do some computer rearranging throughout the office, so I will see how it all pans out. I used 2X4 as it was not only cheaper but allowed me to use my air powered framing nailer. I love power tools that can cause great bodily harm!

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2014, 11:19:32 pm
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on January 18, 2014, 08:08:44 pmOh my, what a large table you have there.As per tools, I'm only using a cordless drill. Still capable of bodily harm, but I don't think it's up there in the same class as an air powered nail gun.Currently, the computer is staying where it is. Might change my mind at some point, say with the help of a good monitor arm and keyboard drawer, but that's not happening right now or really being planned for.

author: kc9qvl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 03:12:18 am
content: So I bought some of these brackets:http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10168720/This corner shelf:http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10049384/This shelf:http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20025047/And this frame: Found out about in a related threadhttp://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10177630/Tomorrow we build.

author: kc9qvl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 02:37:53 am
content: Well last weekend build didn't happen. So did today. With ikea's as-is/scratch and dent section my new electronics bench came in at $97.00 USD.

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 03:12:10 am
content: I found that stair treads work very well for equipment shelves. The ones I have are clear (no knots, cracks, or other imperfections) hardwood 1x12 with one rounded edge. I was lucky to find some 6 footers. Stiff enough to not require mid span support, and can support anything I put on them with no perceptible sag. Downside is, they're not cheap.I've never trusted MDF or any of the other processed sawdust products due to the effects of humidity meaning lots of sealant, cheap veneer, and easy to knock off edges.

author: kc9qvl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 03:31:31 am
content: I'll probably glue vinyl flooring to the table top at some point.I would have liked the cut and build the bench but there is currently 12" of snow outside and all woodworking is an outside job.The Ikea stuff works and required no cutting. I will admit though the legs seem a bit wobbly not bad but noticeable.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 03:43:58 am
content: Quote from: Rory on January 27, 2014, 03:12:10 amI came up with the idea of using 1" angle on the front & rear edges to deal with the sagging issue. Also center support, but it's only tied to the back of the bench, so nothing on the work area at all.Found shelving of 3/4" particle board with melamine on top, bottom, and front edge. Will see how it turns out shortly, as I'm only waiting for the paint to finish drying now (steel frame welded, drilled, and painted). Shelving cut, still need to bevel the edges with the router so the steel angle fits flush (rounded inner diameter).Will try and remember to take pics in stages.Quote from: kc9qvl on January 27, 2014, 03:31:31 amCan you manage a way to tie them together to stiffen them up?

author: kc9qvl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 03:55:18 am
content: Well I tightened the legs into their screw socket with channel locks. That seemed to workThe legs I used:http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70217973/

author: rexxar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 07:25:17 am
content: Quote from: Rory on January 27, 2014, 03:12:10 amI'm using an MDF computer desk for my electronics work. I spilled a bottle of isypropyl without realizing, and the next day, the whole thing was warped and bubbledThe veneer also scratches absurdly easy. I definitely recommend putting a more waterproof surface on top of it.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 29, 2014, 05:59:23 pm
content: So far, I am having good luck with my workbench. I used 3/4" MDF for the work surface and 1/2" for the shelves. I built my bench in November. I live in Florida so humidity is no stranger. I don't foresee a problem as my 'L' shaped desk is made from melamine and I haven't had any problems with the wood swelling.It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to see about sealing with work surface. I wouldn't want to have to replace it as an 8' by 34" piece of 3/4" MDF is a bit heavy and unwieldy to get through the house into the office. Has anyone used any sealers on MDF and what are the favorite products?

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2014, 06:25:20 pm
content: Shellac based primer will seal it. It's expensive, smelly and will dry in 20 minutes. Avoid any water based products they will ruin the surface finish.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 29, 2014, 08:40:27 pm
content: Thanks, pickle. I will see what the local home depot has and the price. I am normally careful but it wouldn't hurt to look into some protection.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 29, 2014, 08:45:26 pm
content: Quote from: pickle9000 on January 29, 2014, 06:25:20 pmHome depot has Zisser shellac sealer for 13.78 a quart. That is a price I can live with. And I have a choice of clear or amber finish.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 30, 2014, 02:35:34 am
content: Not to diss Ikea or anything. I have been to the Ikea store in Orlando, FL. Very impressive store. Their kitchens are impressive, their desks and stuff, not so much. The Jerker is an interesting design, however, I built an 8' workbench with 1 bottom shelf and 3 full length adjustable shelves for about the same price. It isn't as fancy, but when it is all loaded up with gear, projects, stuff to fix and tools, who is going to notice.

author: TMM
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2014, 12:05:24 pm
content: Quote from: rexxar on January 27, 2014, 07:25:17 amThis is why i build my desks out of solid pine with a clear polyurethane finish. They generally don't show scratches, virtually water resistant and when the surface gets ratty you just sand it down and re-clear it. The only thing you need to worry about is denting the pine.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 30, 2014, 12:57:02 pm
content: TMM, can you get pine boards wide enough to make a workbench? Here in the US, I can't get a pine board equal to the 34" width of my workbench. The widest boards available is 12" That means joining multiple pieces together. I don't have access nor know how to use planers and joiners to make a smooth benchtop like that. That is why I use MDF or melamine. MDF is also cheaper and more structurally stable than plywood. Finished birch plywood is twice the price and gets very poor reviews for gaps, layer separation and de-lamination.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2014, 08:16:51 pm
content: Don't buy plywood, buy shutterply and just look for good surface sheets to use. you will get good sheets typically in the middle of the stacks. There will be voids and such, but that is a simple enough fix with some wood filler on the gaps in the side. There is a company local to me making office furniture out of it, and it is pretty solid furniture, and very strong, as I have used the desks as a temporary step to change lighting which I would not dare to do on a chipboard desk. Funny thing is my father did a lot of the mechanical work on the original Bisonboard factory when it opened over 40 years ago. Still there, but the quality is way down, the original boards were known to be nearly waterproof from the quality and quantity of melamine bonder used. The current stuff turns to crumb if it even gets damp.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2014, 08:36:54 pm
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on January 30, 2014, 12:57:02 pmAre you checking the glued up boards or just single, solid pieces of material?You could try looking in the sections where they keep table tops and such (edge glued panels & boards). Only seeing as wide as 24" at Lowes, but a cabinet shop might offer something larger (or be able to custom make it for you). Other than that, you could try finish grade plywood, or gluing up boards yourself and cut to fit regarding lumber.Another alternative you might want to consider, is get an actual table top from an office or restaurant supply store. Even used (what I did when I was after a 30"x60" top) if you don't mind signs of previous wear (mine's covered in ESD mat, so I wasn't too concerned with this). Turned out to be much cheaper than trying to make one myself. New, could be had for ~$60, got used for ~$40.EXAMPLE. Other sizes available, as are finishes (walnut, oak, ...). Very thick and sturdy, and I couldn't have made one that well for the same, let alone less money.Hope this helps you a bit.