hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Substitute for 2SK1058 and 2SJ152 MOSFETs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: profdc9
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2020, 02:52:38 am
content: Hello. I have been looking at the circuit on this web page:http://electronics-diy.com/electronic_schematic.php?id=1048http://electronics-diy.com/schematics/1048/100W-HIFI-MOSFET-Amplifier-Circuit.gifwhich is fairly simple. It has a differential input pair with feedback, a second amplifying pair with a constant current load, and a pair of N and P channel mosfets 2SK1058 and 2SJ152 for driving the output. However, these parts are obsolete. As far as I can tell, these MOSFETs have four attributes that make them useful for audio amplification: low threshold voltage (0.5 to 1.5 V), fairly low gate capacitance (< 1000 pF), 7 A maximum drain current, and 120-160 volt maximum drain-source voltage. I am finding it hard to find any common MOSFETs for linear amplification that can be used for audio. Perhaps a N and P channel pair could be recommended?Also, I was thinking of if such a pair could not be found, using something like a IRF530 and IRF9530. These have sufficient drain current, low gate capacitance, sufficient maximum drain voltage (about 100 volts), but the threshold voltage is 2 to 4 volts. In the schematic, two forward biased diodes provide about 1.4 volt drop between the two gates of the N and P channel transistors. If the voltage drop of the diodes is too small compared to the sum of the threshold voltages of the transistors, significant crossover distortion will result. So for these transistors, I would think that an increased voltage drop is needed here. If the voltage drop is too high, the quiescent power will be significant in class AB operation. So the voltage needs to be adjusted properly. As a primitive way to adjust this voltage, putting many 1N4148 diodes in series with jumper blocks to short them out would allow this to be adjusted in approximately 0.7 volt increments. If I used a 1N5711 that would add a 0.4 volt drop increment as well. It is an unelegant but simple way to adjust the difference between the two gate voltages to approximately equal the threshold voltage sum.So does this sound like it might work or do I have this wrong?Thanks,Dan

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2020, 03:50:11 am
content: http://www.exicon.info/products.php

author: magic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2020, 05:14:45 am
content: These are lateral MOSFETs, you can tell right away by the central pin being source rather than drain.Their primary advantage is good SOA and negative thermal coefficient of drain current, which simplifies biasing.Low threshold voltage is also found in "logic level" vertical power FETs, but SOA may or may not be there and they will be prone to thermal runaway.
Substitute for ADCH-80A rf choke - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Dragon88
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 12:48:06 pm
content: Hi,Quick RF question. I have some spare Mini-Circuits Gali-52+ amps on hand from repairing a piece of equipment. I'd like to make a small general purpose LNA board with them. The reference design I have seen (and the thing I repaired) uses a Mini-Circuits ADCH-80A wideband choke for the bias to the amplifier. Unfortunately, the minimum quantity is 20 on Mini-Circuits website. I was hoping to find a cheaper alternative.Is it possible to select a substitute fixed inductor and maintain the wideband nature of the circuit? The ADCH-80A is good for 50 MHz to 10 GHz. My application would be fine with 50MHz to 2 GHz. I understand SRF is a factor when selecting a choke for a specific frequency, but I'm not sure how to handle the wideband requirement.Thanks!

author: Dragon88
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 08:34:12 pm
content: Here's a sample of what I'm finding searching Digikey. An inductor with a SRF of 2.1GHz, but very low impedance at the low frequency of operation:http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/LQW15AN91NG00D/490-6853-1-ND/3846050Larger inductors of course have lower SRFs, but I need something closer to a uH to have a reasonable impedance at 50MHz. Should I just use both in series? Is that how the "wideband" rf chokes achieve their performance, or is it something more complicated?

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 09:09:34 pm
content: http://coilcraft.com/pdfs/bcr.pdf

author: Dragon88
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 09:36:14 pm
content: Well that thing certainly looks cool.But based on the theory of how it works, looks like I might be on the right track with multiple series inductors.
Substitute for old Jaeger boxes? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Mr Simpleton
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 19, 2024, 09:12:05 am
content: Finding a nice enclosure can be just as hard as designing and building the electronicsThe Swiss made Jäger boxes, which was poplular in the 70's and 80's and looked a bit as the old system 80 from R&S (especially colour scheme).The web seems to have all forgotten about these neat boxes, and I am trying to find a subsitute. I.e. a good looking box with an internal chassie. The Hammond 1402-series is almost there but no internal chassie (guess user supplied) and the gap on the sides doesn't look that nice.Please help me find the modern and available Jäger enclosure!

author: The Soulman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2024, 10:36:42 am
content: Something like this?https://www.altinkaya.com/shop/category/aluminum-laboratory-enclosures-85

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2024, 10:55:00 am
content: They’re still made! Jaeger was acquired back in 2017 and the new owners continue their products:https://shop.lasatec.ch/sortiment/gehausesortiment-metall-und-kunststoff.htmlAlthough it looks like some sizes, and all colors except black, are discontinued and only available while supplies last. They still say “custom sizes and designs on request” so I suppose that one could custom order them if ordering a large enough quantity and/or willing to pay enough. In fact, I suspect the custom enclosure business is the important one for them.The Hammond 1402 has slots into which you can slide a PCB or sheet metal.For what it’s worth I really like Hammond’s extruded aluminum enclosures, which similarly have slots in the sides. Easy to machine and look fantastic.

author: Mr Simpleton
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 19, 2024, 10:34:10 pm
content: Oh! Thanks for the information on the Lasatech brand! Will have to take a look at those! Agree that the Hammond boxes are nice but somehow the old Jaeger did struck a cord and I loved how they were put together.The Altinkaya looks promising, but it may be a hurdle to find a supplier, as they request a log-in to see prices. And the enclosure reminds me of old Shroff boxes that were intended for 19-inch card frames.I might try the Hammond after all, they are easy to buy even here in Europe
Substitute Power Supple for I Mac - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Lawsen
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2011, 06:50:13 am
content: The I Mac G5 and all in one computers were not perfect. Here is a power supply that by pass the difficult to find new power supply:http://cgi.ebay.com/Power-Supply-Modified-Apple-iMac-G5-17-/200617588019?pt=Apple_Desktops&hash=item2eb5bd7533Some of the Power Mac lines have troubles. The heavier G5 Power Macs have better power supplies and components, but not pleasant appearance, more industrial metallic design and feel.Lawsen

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2011, 09:45:07 am
content: the seller forgot to paint it in white

author: Lance
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2011, 06:46:41 pm
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on June 12, 2011, 09:45:07 amPlus it needs to be in a nice rounded housing so people don't cut themselves on the corners.
Substitute Recap Tektronix 5440 power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rpbale
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 30, 2016, 03:19:14 pm
content: Hi, does anyone have any guidelines/comments for substituting the low voltage filter caps on my old Tektronix 5440? The caps are very hard to find, especially the 290-0636-00 (7500uf 25v). Can higher value caps be used and is the a good source forte the higher values. The original part sources seemed to be NOS units. Thanks

author: singapol
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2016, 05:02:47 pm
content: Nowadays 75000 uf is not a standard value. Let's look at it this way electrolytic caps are +/- 20% toleranceso a 75K uf at the lowest will be 75 X 0.8 = 6K uf or at the highest is 75 X 1.2 = 90K uf. You can eitherget 68K uf or 82K uf which I think 68K uf will be easier to find. Also 68k uf is 90% of 75k uf still within tolerance right?

author: rpbale
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 30, 2016, 05:08:33 pm
content: That's a great way to look at it. Seems obvious now that you point it out. If the 82k were easily available I'm thinking that higher means less ripple.Thanks!

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2016, 12:44:46 am
content: Whoah, 7500uF is not 75KuF, it's 7.5K. Putting in a cap with a capacitance 10 times higher will likely result in a blown fuse.

author: dave_k
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2016, 01:41:37 am
content: If you can't easily find replacement capacitors to mount on the power supply PCB, here is how I decided to tackle the problem of fitting a modern replacement cap into a Tek 7603.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-76037613-repairs/msg743296/#msg743296I would not trust NOS caps, and modern ones can be substituted with better specs (lower ESR, better temperature rating, etc..)

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2016, 02:13:07 am
content: For electrolytic capacitors I definitely would avoid NOS parts. Electrolytic capacitors have a limited shelve life so the NOS ones offered are very likely way passed their shelve life. Modern capacitors are a whole lot smaller so your equipment will look empty after the replacement.
Substituting a TFT LCD display for another - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Zazzmatazz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 09:01:38 am
content: Good morning,Recently, my DP823 suffered damage which unfortunately broke the LCD display. Unfortunately again, the display (a TM035KDH03) isn't being manufactured anymore. Looking at the datasheet, it specifies the interface as RGB/CCIR656/601. What exactly does this mean? Would I be able to substitute this display for another, and what should I look for?Cheers!PdM

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 09:14:06 am
content: RGB/CCIR656/601 means it can handle both 24bit wide parallel RGB data with 320x240 resolution but also digital 8bit PAL/NTSC signals:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rec._601https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ITU-R_BT.656Most likely this feature isn't used here, so most 320x240 TFT LCDs with 24bit RGB interface should work if you adapt the pinout.

author: Zazzmatazz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 09:39:20 am
content: Thanks!I was able to find a substitute (the NHD-3.5-320240MF-ASXN#, mouser part number 763-35320240MFASXN#) where the interface matches exactly. Hopefully it works!

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 10:29:10 am
content: I skimmed through the datasheets:HD-3.5-320240MF-ASXN uses a NV3035C controller while TM035KDH03 uses a NT39016D. But both seem to be almost identical, so it will most likely it will work without any problems.

author: Zazzmatazz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 10:30:41 am
content: Much obliged, I'll give it a try once Mouser gets the part to me. Hopefully it'll be a nice quick fix.
Substituting MOSFET on PC Motherboard - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sparksflying
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2014, 12:24:23 pm
content: My computer stopped working yesterday so I tested the PSU, then plugged in things one at a time. Turns out there was a short across the 12V 4pin motherboard connector. I hooked it up to the bench supply and pumped 5A into the shorted input, one of the MOSFETs was burning hot. I found a Drain-Source short on it after desoldering.The original part is a NEC 2SK3918http://datasheet.eeworld.com.cn/pdf/NEC/57164_2SK3918-ZK.pdfI had a similar N-Channel MOSFET in my cabinet, the IRLR8729http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irlr8729pbf.pdfLuckily it was the same package and footprint so I soldered it in, reassembled computer and it worked! ....but only for 24 hours...It shutdown again, desoldered the replaced part and it was also Drain-Source shorted. I replaced it again, this time with a glamorous wire heatsink just in case overheating was the problem.http://i61.tinypic.com/e8a3yo.jpgAre these parts compatible? The specs looked quite similar. What do you have to match when finding replacement MOSFETs?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2014, 02:23:09 pm
content: Likely the same thing that cooked the first one, cooked the second...Tim

author: theatrus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2014, 03:06:29 pm
content: These FETs are the switchers for the DC/DC converters used for the CPU and chipset power rails (efficient stepdown to <= 1V at 100W in aggregate, there are usually several channels). Based on there being two FETs and no diodes, this is like a synchronous converter - check that the second FET is in spec, and check for issues with the inductor.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2014, 04:47:28 pm
content: Check for failing caps with an ESR meter. Also disable any (not so) smart fan settings or set them to more reasonable settings. They tend to default to "lazy".
Subsystem Certification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: hamdi.tn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2025, 12:27:29 pm
content: Hi everyone,I'm working on a simple project where all need is to design a PCB that fit in a PCIe connector, and on this PCB there is basically a wifi module and some capacitor.Question is : Should this little board that will be sold as a product to an OEM, have its own CE certification as a separate product (in this case from me) or the Wifi module maker CE declaration and test reports will do ?Thanks
Successful assembly of my first electronics project - ESP Miniosc - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: duckduck
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2020, 12:22:26 am
content: I had to share my joy at completing my first electronics assembly project: a Miniature Audio Oscillator from Elliott Sound Productshttps://sound-au.com/project86.htm. I ordered the PCB from ESP and the components from Mouser/Digikey. Big fan of Rod Elliott's site and projects. I was super careful during assembly to test the value of each component and was doing everything I could to have it work on first power-up. Nope!It oscillated wacky waveforms really slowly (~5 Hz). I looked it over and over and over and wondered what I had done wrong. I read the values of all of the components on the board and compared them to the specified values. Too much flux? Did I burn up a diode by leaving the iron on the joint for a second too long? Finally, several days later, I spotted a joint that I had not soldered, and another one where there wasn't enough solder and it didn't make it through the via to the other side of the PCB. I soldered those up and it worked. What a great feeling!I built this board with DIP-8 sockets so that I could switch out the opamps. I bought several different opamps to try. Looking forward to testing those out and then putting this thing in an enclosure. I'm still waiting on an AWG from AliExpress, so this miniosc project will have to do for my signal-generating needs for the time being.

author: GeorgeLG
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 28, 2024, 12:26:55 am
content: Help me Obi One Kenobi, I cannot find the value for C9 but I see you did. Whats the secret? Thanks,George
Sugestion for power IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: BFX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2018, 05:48:24 pm
content: Hi allWhat I need:- switching IC with internal MOSFET for switching for example max 50V 1A (50W) and another output for relay.- Should have possibilities to take control between MOSFET or relay.What is the goal:Simple plastic cube with two connectors, one DC switched by MOSFET and one relay ac plug controlled by USB.I'm wondering if exist such ICOne more expectation (not necessary) galvanic separation would be great:)
Suggest a project! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dreaquil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2014, 12:17:58 pm
content: I'm a student and have been asked to propose a project as my assignment for my unit on ARM micros which must include an interrupt, a timer and some comm (I2C, SPI or UART) at a minimum... any suggestions?

author: dreaquil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2014, 12:26:18 pm
content: I'd actually thought of that but i figured too much external hardware... the hardest bit should be the micro not the external circuitry

author: rolycat
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2014, 01:09:30 pm
content: How about a data logger? Use a timer/interrupt combination to read data values at configurable intervals and log to a flash/RAM chip connected via SPI/I2C.You could add a display and other features if you have the time/interest.

author: dreaquil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2014, 01:26:23 pm
content: That's a pretty good idea, and checks all the boxes... might look into that one

author: KM4FER
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2014, 02:02:58 pm
content: There is a pretty cool experiment described in "Chaos" by James Gleek in which water is allowed to drip from a small nozzle. The water flow is varied between individual slow drops and a continuous stream. The time interval between each drop is measured. If time interval between drop n and drop n-1 is plotted against time interval between drop n-1 and n-2 at a certain flow rate some interesting chaotic attractor patterns are developed. I have always wanted to do this but it has never quite popped up to the top of my list. It should be pretty simple.Arrange a photo diode/detector pair such that a falling drop will break the light beam. Use the impulse generated to trigger an interrupt to a microcontroller. The microcontroller would then start a timer and wait for the next interrupt. When that interrupt occurs record the timer value, reset and restart the timer, send the datum over a serial interface to somewhere for recording and plotting and wait for the next interrupt. Repeat ad naseum.If anyone should happen to do this experiment let me know cause I'd like to know how it worked out for you.earl...

author: kizzap
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 22, 2014, 02:22:55 pm
content: How long do you have to do the project and how complex does it need to be.What is always a good go to is any type of test equipment. Chuck in a graphical display, and you might have reason to justify using the ARM chip... (yeah I know you could do it with less, but hey.)
Suggest available, well integrated USB-Type-C SS/HS data & PD ESD/OV protection? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: evb149
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2022, 02:17:57 am
content: Hi,Can you suggest an available (low quantity), well integrated USB-Type-C SS/HS data & PD ESD/OV protection IC?I have looked at some but which aren't available, and others which aren't well integrated and need multiple components to handle protection and filtering of the whole interface. What're the popular options for a does-it-all protection and possibly CM filtering solution?
suggest boost converter circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: kimera
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2024, 09:30:04 am
content: please. suggest boost converter circuit. (need tr frequency gen)vin 10-60Vdc, Vout 180-250Vdc, Iout 0.5Athanks all.

author: eleguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2024, 11:30:21 am
content: Have you triedhttps://webench.ti.com/power-designer/?

author: kimera
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2024, 12:08:30 pm
content: it's design for ic only me need Transistor because my local hard to buy ic.

author: Andy Chee
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2024, 12:42:52 pm
content: Are you able to obtain locally these ICs;TL494?SG3525?

author: kimera
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2024, 01:14:21 pm
content: Quote from: Andy Chee on October 27, 2024, 12:42:52 pmCan be purchased but has Vin restrictions. If possible I would like to use an "astable multivibrator" type circuit, but I don't know how to feedback it to get 180V.

author: Andy Chee
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2024, 10:00:49 pm
content: Please post an example schematic of your proposed astable mulvibrator design.

author: kimera
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2024, 01:50:20 am
content: Quote from: Andy Chee on October 27, 2024, 10:00:49 pm[ Specified attachment is not available ]can edit for Vin 12-60Vdc ?

author: PCB.Wiz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2024, 03:28:55 am
content: Quote from: kimera on October 28, 2024, 01:50:20 amIf you supply R1,R2,R3,R4 from a ( > 60V) NPN + 12V Zener regulator, that will have the gate drive of the correct voltage.The circuit is very crude, with VBE based feedback it will have terrible temperature drift.A fast, low loss switching diode should be used, and the MOSFET and inductor will need to be good enough to handle 15A level currents for your desired 10V in10V to 250V, at 25:1, is a significant ask.

author: kimera
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2024, 02:08:12 pm
content: Quote from: PCB.Wiz on October 29, 2024, 03:28:55 amDo you have a sample circuit for me to study as a guideline? Or is there a recommended circuit that can receive Vin 10-60Vdc output 180-250Vdc?Thanks

author: youngda9
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2024, 02:42:47 pm
content: This design gets you 90% of the way there. Slap a linear regulator in the circuit to limit Vin to the controller chip. Vout1 output voltage can be changed to overtake the linear regulator loading if you'd like. There may also be a single output version of this chip to keep it simpler. Vout2 is the main power output voltage...will need to add some circuitry into get you an adjustable output voltage if that's what is desired. Some other minor changes may be needed (compensation, etc.).https://www.analog.com/en/resources/evaluation-hardware-and-software/evaluation-boards-kits/dc2744a.html#eb-overview
Suggested boost converter chip for 3.??v to 5v @500mA or so - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: pstemari
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2021, 01:02:17 am
content: My old standby boost converter chip, the LT1308, has skyrocketed in price ($8/ea at DK) and Murata discontinued the recommended inductor.The chip Sparkfun seems to be using these days, the PAM2401, is backordered everywhere I checked.Any suggestions for alternatives? I basically want to boost a lipo up to 5V at ~500mA or so. I'm fairly constrained on space: a SOT-23 or 8-SSOP would be ideal packages. I'll be hand soldering this, so the more exotic packages with pads under the chip are not desirable.

author: syau
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2021, 06:31:52 am
content: Many cheap lithium cell boost converter use MT3608.https://www.olimex.com/Products/Breadboarding/BB-PWR-3608/resources/MT3608.pdf

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2021, 07:05:14 am
content: $0.78 at 100pcs, $1 at 10pcs :PAM2423seems to be in stock at Digikey, ~60k pcs :https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/diodes-incorporated/PAM2423AECADJR/4033258Though it kinda requires a few components around it to work, using more space on pcb compared to others.$1.8 at 100pcs :LM2731(Y=600kHz , X = 1.6 Mhz) seems to be adequate for your needs :https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/LM2731XMF-NOPB/565162LM2621may also work but again, requires compensation networks and extra parts and it's more expensive than lm2731.If a maximum of around 300-400mA works for you, thenMIC2250may be worth checking out, up to 94% efficient and cheap at $0.6 :https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/microchip-technology/MIC2250-2YD5-TR/2764088LMR62014would also do 500mA and more with 3v or more, but seems to be less efficient than the ones above :https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/LMR62014XMF-NOPB/3179256

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2021, 03:01:40 pm
content: TPS61322
Suggestion for a mainstream 3 inches colour or mono LCD with MCU library - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Wilson__
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2024, 11:05:28 pm
content: Please suggest a mainstream (widely available and low cost)LCD about 3 inches size.Monochrome or colour.Also a suitable 'simple' open sourcegraphic library. Just to display fonts, of variable font size, in graphic mode.Many thanks

author: Wilson__
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2024, 11:10:26 pm
content: May be 3 to 4.5 inches are also good.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2024, 11:32:17 pm
content: buydisplay.com and look for the parameters you want.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2024, 11:40:41 pm
content: Check the Raspberry PI forums, that usually tells you what's well supported.

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2024, 02:30:21 pm
content: Seconding buydisplay.com. They don't really offer libraries afaik, but they are pretty good about providing sample code that includes the correct initialization sequence/values, which are important and specific to the panel. A lot of the displays in that size category use one of a handful of similar controllers, if find one you like and google the controller part number you should find plenty of libraries out there for them. I think Adafruit have a popular library that supports several of those controllers.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2024, 09:16:54 pm
content: Another vote for buydisplay.com. Very good documentation, quality is excellent, and they respond to questions promptly.As for libraries: depends on what MCU platform you’re using. LVGL is supported on a lot of things. On Arduino, Adafruit Gfx is widely supported, and it’s easy to search for drivers for a given driver.For example, the ILI9341 and ILI9488 are well supported by most any library. Similarly the ST7789.
Suggestion for machine learning project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: miketan3904
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2021, 04:45:55 am
content: Hi guys! I am looking for some ideas for machine learning project. Feel free to suggest any real life machine learning project, I will always come back to this thread to check for new ideas. Thanks!

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2021, 04:58:52 pm
content: Maze solving? Minimum distance traveled. It can easily be solved by using the 'flood fill algorithm' but there are interesting side issues that can be solved with the machine learning - like avoiding congestion, preferred routes, etc.From "AI Crash Course" - I have the Kindle editionhttps://www.amazon.com/Crash-Course-hands-introduction-reinforcement-ebook/dp/B07Z9DC228Expand the problem to the scale of an Amazon warehousehttps://youtu.be/TUx-ljgB-5QETA: Flood-fill only works on mazes with no islands - a block of squares with a path all the way around.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2021, 05:24:09 pm
content: Traveling Salesman Problem? Various AI techniques have been applied.https://paperswithcode.com/task/traveling-salesman-problem/codelessThis problem is similar to the maze problem above but usually on a much larger scale. Solving for the optimal solution takes a LONG time for a large number of cities.I wonder how these techniques can be applied to resource scheduling? I used to be very interested in scheduling problemshttp://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/130350/1/SOSE18.pdf

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2021, 03:13:38 am
content: Make an AI to complete those "get paid to complete surveys". To make things harder, get the AI to make more money than it uses for electricity and get a reasonable time to break even on the hardware and development time.Make an adblocker for live TV. (Ignore the fact that mainstream TV is junk and generally isn't worth the time to watch even without ads.)

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2021, 03:23:27 am
content: Write an autorouter that actually works.

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2021, 09:40:21 am
content: Bonjour, Claude Shannon, at BTL built a maze solving "mouse" in 1952, with relay memory.http://cyberneticzoo.com/mazesolvers/1952-–-theseus-maze-solving-mouse-–-claude-shannon-american/https://historyof.ai/shannon/Was it the first "AI"?Jon

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2021, 10:08:38 am
content: Rain radar imagery extrapolation into the future. I have years of training data and some pointers on where to start (including prior art on this very topic), would be happy to swap notes!

author: miketan3904
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2021, 03:23:28 pm
content: Thanks for all the suggestion! I will look into that at my free time. New ideas are still welcomed.By the way, is there any way to make this thread get pinned on top? Or it needs permission from moderator?
Suggestion for step up DC converter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2016, 03:59:07 pm
content: I would like to get 24V@1.5A from a 12V supply. I have looked on ebay and have narrowed it down tohttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311493877555orhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321661200767Any comments please?

author: station240
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 05, 2016, 11:57:02 pm
content: The 100W version is better on almost everything.Comes with heatsinking, terminal blocks, TO220 power devices.Also the lowest input voltage is 10V, so it's not going to complete kill any battery you connect it to.

author: jt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2016, 07:11:41 am
content: QuoteI'm not familiar how they are able to have an aluminum substrate. Is it FR4 laminated against an aluminum plate?

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2016, 07:23:47 am
content: Quote from: jt on January 06, 2016, 07:11:41 amNot exactly - Google for Metal Core PCB (MCPCB). A dielectric thermally conductive prepreg copper layer is laminated against the (usually) aluminium plate.http://www.bestpcbs.com/products/single-layer-MCPCB.htm

author: jt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2016, 07:48:09 am
content: Thanks for the link! I'll read up on this.

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2016, 07:56:54 am
content: Are you expecting these to be reliable? At that price, its a sure bet its all counterfeit parts.Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2016, 09:44:59 pm
content: I am not sure, there are so many ready made modules on ebay, and sometimes, or many times they overstate the specs, however if you do not aim too high, then I think you can get pretty good deals.There is a huge markup on anything we buy and it's all made in China anyway.Checking prices on alibaba for trade quantities in a range of items, electronics, components, clothing accessories, clothing items, you will see that for example a knitted hat with real fur pom can be had for £2-£6, depending on the quality of the fur most importantly, and then on other sites the very same item sells for £20 and in the local shops for £30 or more.So I am hopeful that these modules will work. I bought half a dozen of each to test (and use if OK).
Suggestion of boost converter IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: krazy707
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 07, 2020, 02:38:16 am
content: I see that there are chips available for power banks, SOC kind of things such as IP5318, what i am looking for is a good efficiency boost converter IC that can do from 3V at the lowest to 12v 1.5A, or 18W sustained at no less than 88% efficiency. TPS61088 is one chip but are there other chips please suggest. Ideally do not want to use power bank soc but need ic that has similar boost feature
Suggestion on Digital Output board design - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2013, 01:42:03 pm
content: Hi EEvbloggers,I am a power-analog and have zero experience with Digital stuff. I am tasks of building a digital output board prototype with 32 open collector outputs. The digital output board has to be controlled by a SPI. The operating voltage is 3.3 volts.Is there a chip that is already available for this or do I need to go design from scratch? As I said this might be trivial and an Digital designer but for me I it is hard getting started.Any suggestion would be appreciated.Robert

author: Harvs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2013, 01:58:04 pm
content: How fast does it need to be?

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2013, 02:15:14 pm
content: Clock speed is 10 to 20 MHz I believe.

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2013, 02:22:39 pm
content: Quote from: rbola35618 on June 18, 2013, 01:42:03 pmToo vague. 32 3.3v open collector outputs looks like a weird requirement which is why I question it.There are I/O expanders with SPI interfaces, some might do open drain. You could follow them with open collector buffers. There are SPI (or SPI like) LED drivers which might be open collector enough. Searching low side and SPI turned up the NCV7240 and there are others, but, are 0.5A MOSFET outputs with deliberately slow response what you want?

author: RPKH
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 10:53:13 pm
content: This is a good thing to consider with pcb layout:http://analogvsdigitalground.blogspot.nl/p/various-grounds.html

author: miceuz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 11:21:18 pm
content: Something as trivial as 74hc595 with a bunch of discrete transistors? Seems to be able to do 20MHz @ 2V vcc

author: ejeffrey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 11:48:34 pm
content: Quote from: rbola35618 on June 18, 2013, 02:15:14 pmThat is kind of crazy to do with open-collector outputs if you have to drive any kind of cable. More to the point, at that frequency you need to consider your load carefully, you can't just design a generic 'digital output' box and assume it will work with whatever wires you hook up.

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2013, 12:02:18 am
content: Quote from: ejeffrey on June 19, 2013, 11:48:34 pmI took that as the SPI clock rate - as an output data rate the SPI would have to clock at 320 to 640MHz or have multiple lanes.

author: ejeffrey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2013, 04:13:34 am
content: Ah, that makes more sense.
Suggestion required fr Building Amp power Supply Design. only for audio psupply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: bwolf
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 11, 2016, 08:10:33 am
content: Hello AllI want to power my audio amp (amp voltage input range 8-19V) there is no mention of amperes.currently i am powering this with my Ubiquity Power adapter 15V @ 0.8amp. I am getting little noise/hissing sound and also Interference (when switching near lights on /off, sparkling sounds )so i want to build good audio supply for this (amp TPA3110 Class-D Audio Amplifier Board) which one is better linear voltage regulator or buck/boost converter ??(Voltage Range DC 16-24V with greater than 1.5amps.) anybody can guide me with circuit diagram pls... I want clean DC with no noise /no ripples. Likeperfect DC for Audio amps......thank you very much.?sorry for my bad English

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2016, 08:28:46 am
content: You are probably using a switching power supply. Try using a linear power supply.A linear power supply is very easy to build. Most expensive thing is the (big?) transformer you will need. How big depends on how much current your amp draws at full power (and then a little extra).
Suggestion to Dave for project/Youtube Video: RCD Tester design/prototype. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: samgab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 10:10:28 am
content: Hey Dave, and all others,Dave, I have an idea or suggestion for a Youtube video/little project; namely, looking at the circuit design and building of anRCD testerdevice prototype.They seem pretty straightforward, having a few common set currents, eg; 0.5x, 1x, and 5x of 10mA and 30mA respectively (5mA, 10mA, 15mA, 30mA, 50mA, 150mA), and a timer, to measure the time taken until the RCD trips and breaks the circuit; plus an LCD display to show information such as the measured time/test result.You could maybe take a look at what would be involved in building a circuit to perform that function, with a DaveCADTMor two and maybe a prototype?Well, that's just an idea that I think would be quite interesting. What do you think?

author: jebcom
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 05:31:05 pm
content: You could also consider this:A great way for you to learn is to find a project like this that interests you and that you have a use for, and tackle it yourself. Start out with a very basic circuit and parts and do some experimentation, learning and working toward a functional device that you can use. You'll find lots of help here when you have specific questions. Go for it; I think you'll be glad you did.
Suggestions and guidelines for DIY test fixture for high densidty PCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ricko_uk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2024, 10:26:26 pm
content: Hi,I am designing a high density PCB (to the point of using 0402) and will also be designing and building a DIY test fixture (don't yet know the mechanical architecture yet - any suggestions also welcome!!) for it to use during development and also initial production testing and programming.I am wondering about the following (any suggestions/tips) considering the test fixture will be DIY:- smallest test pads size that still allows to use not too expensive probes- preferred grid spacing to allow a relatively decent density while also make it not too difficult to assemble by hand (never done it before)- any suggestions on the probes types (round tip, cone tip, different bodies perhaps) and a preferred or common brand/UK-distributorThank you

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2024, 10:43:55 pm
content: The best test fixtures like this I had to work with were simple PCBs with holes for the spring loaded contacts and all the test points broken out to 0.1" connectors.Make the PCB as thick as you can both for mechanical rigidity and for the ease of vertical probe alignment.The smallest spring loaded contacts I've seen are 0.6 mm and 1.27 mm pads on both sides work like a charm with them. Bu they are quite fragile, so use the bigger size if you have space. The test pad should be fine at 1.27 mm either case.No idea on the supplier, generic stuff from AlieExpress works fine and does not break a bank.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2024, 11:21:09 pm
content: Another thing to think about, and maybe more important than the actual connections to the boards, is... what mechanical process are you going to use to load the boards into the fixture, hold them down against the probes/pins, and remove them when finished. If you make this system too complex/fragile/involved then you are in for some troubles if you plan on making this for "production".Here is an example of a simple mechanical fixture. It aligns and clamps the boards with one motion on that lid (as opposed to a bunch of screws, or multiple levers, or other such stuff that seems like a good idea until you actually have to use the thing you designed in your head).https://www.automatiqsystems.com/versitraq.htmlAnother example:https://www.testfixtures.com/pcb-test-fixtures/As for the actual pogo pins, I would stay away from anything smaller than ones designed for 0.1" pin pitch holes. I've used rows of the those into through holes and that worked ok. They are pretty easy to damage if you aren't careful though.Note: Sorry, I remembered 2mm pitch but they were actually 0.1" pitch.
Suggestions for 24 VAC totalizer (event counter) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: calzap
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2022, 06:54:48 pm
content: Because of recent problems with a water softer, I’d like to keep track of when it cycles. Softener is powered from a 24 VAC wall wart and that’s what the valve motor uses for power. The valve motor is very accessible, being on top of the works and having terminal connections. The electronic board would be much more difficult to access. So, the simplest way is probably to attach a 24 VAC totalizer to the motor terminals. The motor gets activated 6 times during a cycle. So, I would need to keep a dated log of counts and divide by 6 to calculate the number of cycles in a given time span. Keeping the log would be no big deal … I pass by the softener several times per day.I’m pretty flexible on the totalizer other than the 24 VAC input requirement. But I would like it to have low power consumption and not be huge. Panel mount is preferred; but DIN-rail is OK. Reset ability would be nice, but not essential. Electromechanical or electronic are both OK, but if electronic, it needs to remember the count in case of power loss. And of course, lower cost is nice. Programmability and relay or electric outputs are not needed at all.I’ve looked a bit on digikey.com, Amazon and eBay and nothing has jumped out as an obvious choice. Specs of totalizers on Amazon and eBay are suspect. So, I’d like to hear what folks on the forum recommend.Mike in California

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2022, 07:37:27 pm
content: I might be tempted bywww.kuebler.com/en/products/evaluation/displays-and-counters/pulse-counters

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2022, 07:44:07 pm
content: Since you are in US, look athttps://www.mcmaster.com/totalizers/

author: calzap
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2022, 01:46:41 am
content: Thanks, Tim. Looks like they have what I need. Mike
Suggestions for a power connector similar to this proprietary one? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: larryqiann
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 01, 2019, 03:51:03 pm
content: HiThere's a connector I saw lately for the Razer Blade Pro laptop that I quite like, and I'm wondering if there's something similar available in non-proprietary format.The connector looks like the attached pictures.Mainly I'm looking for compact pin-type power connectors, 24Vdc, about 10-15A or soThanks!

author: Dr.Krieger
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2019, 01:29:59 am
content: Maybe something like this:https://www.ebay.com/itm/D-SUB-DB-2-8-Pin-Plug-Jack-Connector-Adapter-30A-High-Current-Power-Gold-plated/181645151519?var=480602474999Supposed to be good for 30A
Suggestions for connecting two small boards - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Harjit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 11:31:11 pm
content: I have a couple of small boards - 10mm x 10mm that are 25mm apart. I need to run seven wires between them. I think 32 gauge (or wire wrap wire) is fine.Is cutting, stripping and soldering (wire wrap) wires my best option? I think this will work but it may not look great.Any creative options out there?

author: mag_therm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 11:41:44 pm
content: To avoid a nick when stripping wire wrap wire (single core Kynar insulation),I put a flat blade in the soldering iron and pull the wire end out from between the hot iron and a cardboard base. The insulation will split away leaving the core exposed.

author: Unixon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 11:48:20 pm
content: What do these boards look like? Rigid conductors in transparent epoxy would look cool.

author: Harjit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 11:54:18 pm
content: They are 0.8mm FR4 PCBs.@mag_therm: When you say flat blade, you mean a tip or like an Xacto blade? If Xacto blade, how do you attach it to the soldering iron. At my old work place, we had wire strippers that had induction heaters in the edge and you could strip wires beautifully.I'll have to look for precut, prestripped wire-wrap wire that is close to the right length.

author: mag_therm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 12:04:11 am
content: By blade I mean the common screwdriver shaped tip for the Weller.Lay the Kynar wire ( I call it mod wire) on the cardboard, place the hot blade tip near its end with downward pressure,then pull the wire out.But if you can get pre-stripped wires of the length, that is better.Edit: Tip for this is Weller ST7

author: Etesla
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 03:34:55 am
content: If you can still change the PCB's, you can always buy premade cable assemblies from places like digikey like this one:https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0151330800/6697024From there digikey gives you a list of mating connectors that you could throw on the PCB if you had room for them.If that takes up too much room you could use those supper thin ribbon cables people use to connect cameras to their raspberry pi's, along with the associated super slim connectors.https://www.amazon.com/Arducam-Raspberry-Camera-Ribbon-Extension/dp/B07SM6JTTM/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=thin+flex+cable+pi+camera&qid=1604374460&s=electronics&sr=1-4