hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
It is Open Source!!! Samsung VR9000 POWERbot robotic vacuum  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ornea
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 27, 2016, 04:37:31 am
content: Recently given one of these as a present by my awesome wife.Beside myself with excitement watching it navigate obstacles, make and recover from mistakes, and what looks to me perform a very thorough coverage pattern.Then flicking thru the manual discovered I can download the source. I Instantly became giddy and collapsing into my chair proceeded to attempt a download.Today I got the email with the details.And now I have what appears to be the source code but thus far have not been able to make head or tail of it. Or find anything in the download that is specific to the POWERbot.Hopefully, I can decipher and eventually optimise the code for our house.I would like to implement these optimisations:1. Return to dock sooner. It is a long way from one end of the house to the other and sometimes it runs out of puff before docking.2. Enhanced schedule. i.e. these areas every day, these areas in a round robin on each subsequent day.3. Avoid areas. Eliminate the need to use their virtual fence device as they supply only one and there are many areas I dont want it to go. Bathrooms etc4. Rug detect. Detect and avoid thick pile rugs as it cant deal with them anyway.5. Voice command perhaps.

author: ruffy91
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2016, 06:05:10 am
content: Most probably it's just the source code of the used open-source components, just as required bby the license of most open source projects. If it uses Linux it will be the kernel sources, modules and kernel config but not the user-space software. Samsung is very good at this.Gesendet von meinem ONEPLUS A3003 mit Tapatalk

author: yngndrw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2017, 12:55:53 am
content: It looks like that's all it is, along with OpenCV:http://opensource.samsung.com/opensource/vr9000H/seq/0

author: ornea
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 01, 2017, 02:04:44 am
content: Now I am sad

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2017, 03:17:07 am
content: Quote from: ornea on January 01, 2017, 02:04:44 amTime to start hacking!
Repair of Balzers / Pfeiffer TCP 120 turbo pump controller? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: osp001
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 29, 2016, 06:42:38 am
content: So, right after I finish rebuilding the roughing pump, the turbo pump halts on me. I power the unit off one night, and come back later to turn it back on and there's this clicking noise like a solenoid kicking on 3-4 times a second. I figure that's not good, so I turn it off. I pulled the turbo pump, took it to a pump specialist, and they said it works fine. That suggests it's the Balzers / Pfeiffer TCP 120 power supply controller.Anyone ever work on one of these? Any chance the type of failure sounds familiar? I'm poking around in unfamiliar territory here and sure could use some words of wisdom. I do note from one thread on how these units (the HP 5970 mass spec) there's a capacitor on the main board of the TCP 120 that tends to fail, but if anyone else has any hints I'd love to hear them. Haven't cracked the case yet- I'm decent with electronics, but I'm always a little shy about zapping myself.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2016, 09:39:50 am
content: The clicking sound description sounds like failure protection of a switched mode power supply.My first guess would be electrolytic caps went bad or maybe a fused diode or MOSFET. For the power semiconductors at least chances are good that one can find faults even without desoldering (usually they fail dead short). If the fault is not easy to spot, finding it can be rather difficult, because chances are the power stage is not insulated from the grid or at least voltages are in the 100 V range.

author: osp001
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 31, 2016, 01:48:14 am
content: Turns out there are four power resistors on the main board, and one or two of them had enough current going through the board to burn it up right underneath the power resistors. They're these square, wire-wound vertical mount power resistors, and two have just enough markings to make out they're 270 ohms, while the burned up one reads 220 ohms when tested, and the slightly crisped one next to it reads 1250-ish ohms.I can't make out the capacity (in watts), nor any of the markings on the two that I can remove, and the other two are nestled in there. The wire traces came off the one side of the board, and I've been told I'll need to jumper those parts.I think it's beyond my ability to repair. Anyone know someone in the Phoenix area that is willing to help me in return for payment, I would be most appreciative.
Yihua SMD Tweezers.. Any one got some and can tell me if they are any good. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2016, 06:22:41 am
content: I've had a pretty good run with some Yihua gear, and was wondering what their SMD tweezers are like.Has anyone used a 938D?http://yihua-soldering.com/11-upgrade-version-smd-hot-tweezer-soldering-station/283281

author: Marc M.
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2016, 08:44:13 am
content: Coincidentally, I just purchased one of these off Fleabay ($65.99 total) and it arrived today. Just did a quick test pulling some SMD parts off a board. Seemed to work just fine. So far the only complaint is the display window is scratched up despite the 'protective' covering. I checked and verified continuity between mains ground and the tips. I pulled it apart and took some photo's for you and the community at large. The micro is marked S3f8S19X. The SMD soldering looked OK, but the hand soldered joints are crusty to 'blobby' to almost non-existent on the switches. Some of the sorta soldered pads appear to have light corrosion on them also. I'll suck that crap off and re-solder those joints. Also, the board has a lot of residue from the SMD cleaning process, and no attempt was made to clean the flux off of the hand soldered joints. All pretty typical of low end Chinese manufacturing processes but for $66.00, I'm not complaining. The one other caveat is that I haven't found a source for replacement tips.
P6015A probe with a P6015 compensation box? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Physikfan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2016, 10:18:19 am
content: Hi electronic expertsI have the following question:Please, who has experience with Tektronix P6015A or P6015 high-voltage probes?I would like to connect a P6015A probe with a P6015 compensation box.I am looking forward to your comments.Please do you have a schematics of the P6015A?I would like to compare the two compensation boxes (P6015 and P6015A).

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2016, 10:25:51 am
content: Easily found using google:http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/P6015

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2016, 11:06:19 am
content: I have several of these P6015 and P6015A and used both of them with a P6015A compensation box and it works very well.On the other side, I have never used a P6015A tip with a P6015A compensation box but I see no reason, why it should not work.If you are using of of the older P6015 tips, make sure it is filled with some FREON, otherwise it is very much limited in voltage and easily damaged. I still have two P6015 filled with FREON for many years already and the liquid level seems to be very stable.
RS Pro tools - has anyone got any experience with them? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SingedFingers
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2016, 05:33:24 pm
content: RS = Radio Spares, not Rat Shack!Has anyone bought any of their own brand hand tools? Need to grab a few random things (ESD snips, pliers, nut drivers) and they're coming up much cheaper compared to the old Wera and Lindstrom tools I have worn out. Also have a 3 year warranty so if they turn out to be crap, they refund/replace zero questions. Worth the trade-off?
So.  The infamous "wall wart" power supply.  Do good vendors for these exist? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cvanc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2016, 05:44:55 pm
content: How to go about choosing a better unit to replace the cheap one that died young? Are there any actually trustworthy brands in this arena?(...and yeah I just found a 12 volter fried beyond recognition but this has gotta be a universal problem for all of us, right? Seems there's always one needing replacement somewhere in the house/shop. With all these fly by night brands, where do you evenbeginto find a decent quality replacement?)Thanks.

author: Farley
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2016, 06:21:04 pm
content: Most likely purchasing from a distributor such as Mouser or Digikey. Generally there will at least be datasheets available for the brands that they carry.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2016, 06:55:35 pm
content: I like to check with MPJA. They seem to deal in overstock. You won't be able to buy same item years down the road, of course. But for something interchangeable like PSU, this might be ok for your project.

author: rollatorwieltje
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 15, 2016, 09:23:09 pm
content: I use Meanwell power supplies, haven't had one explode yet (I did stress test them). They are somewhat expensive though, and avoid buying them on eBay, it's full of fakes there. I bought mine at Distrelec.

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2016, 09:43:36 pm
content: Targusserved me very well. They have different power-tips for different laptops, and different power cable for different power source.The different power-source cable was the reason I get them so when I am on the road, I can plug it into wall AC, car, or airplane power.The different power tips come in handy - I usually travel with my mini-tiny (10" screen) Fujitsu for typical trips. But at times, I work with a bigger laptop (Dell or Toshiba). The different power tips works nicely with those. All I need to carry is the power tips - a bit bigger than the typical jack, but a lot easier than carrying yet another power brick.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2016, 09:43:50 am
content: Now all the wallwarts are SMPSs and they are in a sealed housing, I would advice (if price allows to) to make sure they keep cool, which means in practice you should take 50-100% margin on the power.So if you need 12V 0,2A get a 12V 0,4A or higher. Keeping it cool will result in longer lifetime. If I buy equipment which uses a wallwart PSU I preventively replace them after 4 years.Or replace them with an industrial PSU.

author: kcbanner
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2016, 08:12:59 pm
content: Check out this section:http://www.digikey.ca/products/en/power-supplies-external-internal-off-board/ac-dc-desktop-wall-adapters/130
Solder Paste Supplies Australia - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ludzinc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 29, 2016, 03:44:27 am
content: HiI'm playing with some home made solder stencils, and so far I've only tinkered with the crappy Mechanics brand stuff from eBay.I'd like to step up to some decent quality pastes and reading through the forum Kesters and MG Chemicals seem to be suggested winners, yet I'll be damned if I can find them here in Oz.So to my Aussie compatriots, what do you use?Any preferred brand from E-14 or RS? Other suggestions?Thanks

author: pfrcom
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2016, 07:10:59 am
content: http://www.mektronics.com.au/solder-wire-fluxes-wick.html?cat=468

author: Harvs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2016, 10:04:36 am
content: I just use:http://au.element14.com/aim-products/ct-l63-s0515/solder-paste-63-37-183-c-15g/dp/236633501Works well for all the stuff I do. But I can't say I've tried the stuff a few times the price, so maybe I'm missing something as well.

author: anman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2016, 07:43:18 pm
content: Good solder paste lead-freehttp://buy.solder.com/Solder-Paste/C55_1/

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2016, 04:15:52 am
content: Altronics and RadioParts
Any experience with YIHUA 993D hot air station  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: protons
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 13, 2016, 09:16:00 am
content: Does anyone here have any experience with thes YIHUA 993D professional rework station, link:http://www.yihua-gz.com/Products_detail.asp?id=547&sortid=275.Is have good technical data, air flow 200L/min I sink have turbine tipe blower,and also power is good 1300W.Any personal experiences much appreciated.I f any can open this station and make photo for me I should be grateful.
My lab - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Peter1964
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2016, 08:41:20 pm
content: After some delays I got around to nearly finish my new lab in another room in the house.For now it holds:Maynuo M9811 - DC electronic loadRigol DP832A - Power SupplyRigol DM3068 - Bench multimeterRigol DG1032 - Signal generatorHakko FX888D - Soldering stationBrymen BM869S - Multimeter (also have pc interface)Rigol MSO1074Z - OscilloscopeBrymen BM235 - Multimeter (only bought that one to support Dave, but I tend to use it a lot - nice and small)Not shown I also have:Hameg HM303-6 - Analog oscilloscope (might find its way to a stationary place again - analog scopes are nice too)Meratester - Analog multimeter with real good specs and a nice big meter with mirror (kind of old but still very good)Two home made power-supplies (One 0-30V / 3A and one 0-15V dual with possibility to -15/0/+15, 1 Amp)Peak Atlas ESR+70 - ESR meterPeak Atlas DCA Pro 75 - Component Analyser with USB interfaceAtten 8502D - Solder-/Hot air-stationBSIDE AIM01 - Digital Insulation Tester

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2016, 08:48:03 pm
content: Put pics in this thread or we won't believe a word of ithttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/whats-your-work-benchlab-look-like-post-some-pictures-of-your-lab/
Metcal MFR-WSDSU desoldering stand - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2016, 09:11:07 pm
content: In my stand for the desolderingtool, I found an spring that I removed, but cannot find out how it was placed, what purpose does this have, and where should it sit?
Weller DXV80 or DSX80 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Sbampato12
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2016, 11:50:01 am
content: Hi,I've bought a WMD3 repair station used, in a very good deal. But it came with a DSX80 dessolder iron damaged. It is complete, but the "heating element" is bad. It should read 6R, but when I measure with DMM it shows 4.2R and its not isolated from the temp. sensor.As in this solder iron isn't possible to change the heating element (you need to order basically an entire iron again), I'm thinking of buying a new one.Anyone here used these dessoldering irons?Any indication, preference between DSX80 and DXV80?Thanks in advance!

author: rbm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2016, 04:30:27 pm
content: I own a WRS1001 hot air station which came with a HAP1 tool. I wished to have a through-hole desoldering capability with my station so researched the same question as you. Eventually, I concluded that there was no functional difference between the DS80 and DSX80. I didn't evaluate the DSV80 so I can't comment on your direct question about a prefernce for the DSX80 or DSV80. In my case, I purchased a DSX80 because I came across a good offer for one, not because I preferred one over the other.As for your failing unit, it might be cost effective to see if you can find and purchase just the heating element for the iron. Part number for the replacement head for the DSX80 (including the element) is810 13130.

author: Sbampato12
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2016, 04:00:37 pm
content: RBM, thank you for the response.It's very hard and pricey to get things here in Brazil. So I managed to find a good deal on a second hand (new heaters) DS80, wich I bought.Last month I contacted one Weller reseller here in my city, but they said Weller was reestructuring and will not give answers on prices requestI'll try again next month, and may be get a replacement heater to mine first one.On my research I found someone that told me the DXV80 you need to clean less than the DSX80 that requires more 'attention' (daily cleaning)...
Some sort of medical gizmo, with torsion magnetic field something - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MadModder
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2016, 05:35:03 pm
content: Veeeeery interesting. To see what kind of foolery is inside that is. A battery and a resistor to drive the LED perhaps?TsT-11(click on the tst-11 user guide to the left)It's an electromagnetic apparatus for bodily self healing. Using second level of electricity that we're not quite yet understanding.Original language is hungarian.

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2016, 07:17:32 pm
content: Geo-smog and electro-smog eliminatig deviceit's a stupid scam 48K HUF is approximately 150 Euro... and most probably you'll get a CR2032 and a LED potted in a plastic case so you can't see what's inside
Affordable price smart infrared thermal camera Fotric 123 cloud-based? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SmartInfrared
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2016, 12:25:27 am
content: A smart infrared thermal camera with affordable price on Kickstater which is called Fotric 123: Cloud-Based Thermal Camera for Early Fire Alert, plus motion detection. It's connected with the phone through the cloud service and works similar to a lot of security cameras but with thermal image or video. It's designed for smart home and business for safety and security purpose. And could be used as recreational night camera or other application you can thought.https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fotric/fotric-123-cloud-based-thermal-camera-for-early-fi?ref=38o1in

author: SmartInfrared
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2016, 12:27:28 am
content: Wondering whether this can be used as a low-end test equipment for some electronic repair or inspection? It's cool that it can be placed in the area and then can be viewed/monitored wherever and whenever.

author: jeremy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2016, 09:26:19 am
content: I'm not sure, but try posting here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/crowd-funded-projects/or here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/

author: daveshah
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 27, 2016, 09:08:07 pm
content: 80x80 resolution is interesting as means it's not a lepton sensor. Price also seems very cheap given the sensor, WiFi, IP66 case and software/app development. I presume the plan is to use standard IP camera tech as much as possible, just with a thermal sensor.

author: SmartInfrared
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2016, 04:05:09 pm
content: daveshah, you are right and knowledgeable about the sensorIt uses ULIS Micro80 sensor which has better accuracy of temperature measurement than lepton sensor. The goal is to make an affordable price smart infrared thermal camera for smart home and business to enhance the safety and security if the project is successfully backed. ThanksQuote from: daveshah on November 27, 2016, 09:08:07 pm
Teardown: Fuji 48V 40A PSU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2016, 07:23:34 am
content: Recently, I got a Fuji 48V, 40A PSU (telecom "rectifier") for basically scrap value (about $15). As usual, I did a teardown to learn about what's inside. It certainly looks impressive as you might expect, with a resonant full bridge design. To power it on, connect the short pin in the output connector with the two pins directly below it.As for uses, the most obvious would be a high power audio amplifier. With about 2kW continuous, any amplifier that can even begin to challenge that PSU would likely be overkill for even a high end home theater. Another good use could be a fast charger for a DIY hybrid bicycle or electric riding mower.

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 30, 2016, 07:48:31 am
content: Hi NiHaoMike,Is the link to the teardown missing or you will post it here?

author: CJay
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2016, 08:07:37 am
content: Quote from: NiHaoMike on November 30, 2016, 07:23:34 amRF amplifier, a set of VRF2933's could produce ~800W output with that running them.
Nutcase with Magnetron - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ralphrmartin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2016, 07:44:07 pm
content: I'll let you judge for yourselves...http://www.darwinawards.com/stupid/stupid2014-03.html

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 05:49:11 am
content: "lingering magnetron irradiation"?kreosan is Ukrainian, not Russian.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 05:55:02 am
content: This has been posted on here already a couple times.

author: N2IXK
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2016, 04:02:35 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on November 19, 2016, 05:50:48 amWell, most do contain a thoriated tungsten filament....

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2016, 02:02:26 pm
content: I now understand better what happened in Chernobyl ...and why....
metcal mfr desolderingtips - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2016, 08:21:34 am
content: Which sizes are usefull for normal use for the MFR-H5-DS handle?, I have the DFP-CN2 tip, but it looks very tiny, didn't have time to test it yet, but I'm going to buy a few other consumables on farnell, so I was wondering if I should add a tip or to as well.Is this desolderingtool also using the same way of heating as the other soldertips ?, so it will heat up just as fast?
sheathed banana jack *dust cap*? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: electrolust
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 30, 2016, 10:32:17 am
content: My new test lead set came with little dust plugs sealing the sheathed 4mm banana plugs. Anyone know of a dust cap for a sheathed banana jack? Imaginehttp://www.caltestelectronics.com/ctitem/165-safety/CT2989but the tail end of the sheath is sealed instead of having the plug and wire assembly parts.
Metcal F Connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: l0wside
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2016, 10:44:29 am
content: I have a used Metcal transformer unit (STSS-PS2V-02) from eBay and thought to complement it with a new handpiece MX-H1-AV (and the corresponding tips).Unfortunately, the F connectors do not match. They have the same diameter (9.5mm outer diameter), but different thread pitches. The transformer unit looks like regular pitch, while the connector on the handpiece side seems to have some fine pitch thread.Does anyone know the problem and/or have any suggestion? Replacing the connector on the handpiece side would be the most plausible option, but I am somewhat reluctant to treat some brand-new equipment with pliers and knives.Max

author: Skashkash
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2016, 11:18:57 am
content: The connector does not thread on,.It pushes on, and then the ring on connector tightens.Try unscrewing that ring first, before attaching.

author: l0wside
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2016, 01:11:58 pm
content: Skashkash, you saved my day. Thank you. If you ever come over, I owe you a beer.

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2016, 05:48:13 pm
content: the push-on bit is available as an adapter for regular F plugs, i had one on the bench when i did a lot of satellite receiver repairs.

author: Skashkash
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2016, 12:57:00 am
content: I went the same Metcal route as you.Bought a used power unit on ebay and a new handle from a distributor. I remember that the squirrelly F connector confused me at first too. I'd never seen that one before. And I've seen a lot of F connectors.I've used a lot of soldering systems over the years. The metcal is the best I've ever used. But I'm sure other's will have differing opinions and experiences.Have fun with yours.Now I just have to get over to Germany for that beer.
YDL-983A Solder Paste Dispenser - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ralphrmartin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2016, 07:43:12 pm
content: Is there anyone out there who owns one of these, and can tell me what kind of coupling it has for the air supply inlet, please?

author: packetbob
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2016, 11:59:20 pm
content: Mine has a push style connector on the dispenser itself for 6mm vinyl tubing...It came with a strange style air connector at the end of the supplied 6mm supply hose...I couldn't find a mating connector so replaced it with standard (for Canada) air connector, filter, valve and used a barbed connector to attach the 6mm air line...More details are here:http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-set-up-repair-adjust-and-use-a-solder-paste/

author: lwatts666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 25, 2016, 07:01:46 am
content: Quote from: ralphrmartin on November 23, 2016, 07:43:12 pmI don't have one (yet...) but from the online images, it appears to be a 'NITTO' air coupling. These are common here in Aus.

author: ralphrmartin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2016, 01:06:28 pm
content: Thanks, that's useful. I think I'll be getting myself one of these on my next trip to China.
Looking for schematics/detailed info about HP 8508A (vector voltmeter) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: asilva10
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2016, 08:38:30 pm
content: The user and service manuals (the latter one has 130 pages) do not have the schematics of the boards.I would like to change some aspects of this old equipment for a college project and any additional information (in particular, the schematics) is very welcome. Thank you!!
any good provider for PCB and board fabrication? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: teedee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 15, 2016, 10:37:25 pm
content: I have always used Oshpark to print PCBs for my projects and I really like the quality of the PCBs. However, they don't do board assembly. I currently have a project that I need to make about 200+ boards. So I'm looking for a provider who make quality PCBs like Oshpark with affordable price, and at the same time handle the board assembly. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

author: daveshah
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 07:51:01 am
content: I can recommend elecrow. I've only used them once for assembly but the quality was excellent. I've also used them many times for PCBs only and never had a problem.

author: teedee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 21, 2016, 03:40:25 pm
content: Quote from: daveshah on November 17, 2016, 07:51:01 amThanks for suggesting. I just looked them up. They have very good reviews for the PCB.

author: CraigHB
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2016, 04:24:13 pm
content: I've used these guys;http://www.smart-prototyping.comfor proto board fabrication and have had good results. They also do PCB assembly.

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2016, 10:01:45 pm
content: pcbshopper.com
Need help us for fixing my B3603  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Asad_AL_net
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 21, 2016, 08:28:40 am
content: Hello guys,I have problem with my step down B3603 modulethe problem occurred when make short by mistake between output wire with the (display board part) please see the videoI think the problem with display board part only becouse has test other display board he is working without problemHow can i fix it please
Heated ultrasonic cleaners - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 05:34:10 pm
content: I wonder if having a heater helps in terms of speed and/or quality of ultrasonic cleaning. Would you recommend a heated unit vs plain vanilla one.

author: LA7SJA
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 09:16:53 pm
content: I would recommend a heated, frequency sweeping unit (with a correct cleaning solution for the type of dirt). Read how Temperatures Changes Affect Ultrasonic Cleaning on this webpage:http://www.zenith-ultrasonics.com/temperature_effects.htmJohan-Fredrik

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 09:33:14 pm
content: My cleaning fluid from Allendale (UK) is designed for electronics use and recommends a temperature of 50C to 60C. When using an ultrasonic cleaner that does not have a heater you are recommended to heat the cleaning solution before pouring it into the cleaner or to use a heater that may be dropped into the fluid to heat it before using the cleaner.Fraser

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2016, 07:24:50 am
content: Heating makes a huge difference if only in that less time can be spent exposed to the rather harsh ultrasonic cleaning.
HP 2335 monitor with a pink hue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 14, 2016, 09:43:56 pm
content: I just picked up a HP 2335 23" LCD monitor from my local surplus store. When the background is white, there is a pinkish hue to the screen, more pronounced around the edges. This is with the IOGEAR USB video card and connecting it directly to the laptop. I have played with all the menu settings with no luck. A google search doesn't reveal much. Anyone have an idea? I'm not inclined to crack it open as I just bought it and can return it tomorrow.edit: More reading led to me finding out that it's and IPS monitor and the pink hue is a known issue. It doesn't seem to bother those talking about it unless looking at a white screen, which I will be doing. My plan was to have some company software open on it and the software has a white background. It will go back tomorrow.
optical transceivers - ASP-800SMA-L  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: alin_im
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2016, 08:45:37 am
content: Hey guys,I want to buy some optical transceivers (ASP-800SMA-L -http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNGERMANN-BASS-FIBER-OPTIC-TRANSCEIVER-ASP-800SMA-L-LOT-OF-3-/171990939981) which they are really cheap.Do you know how I can interface those with a laptop ? It has a 15 Pin D-Sub and its using 802.3 FOIRL communication protocol. I want them just to do some simple experiments using fiber optics.Do you have any documentation regarding those transceivers ? Do you recommend other things for a basic fiber optic transmission ?Regards,Alin I.

author: Simian
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 14, 2016, 01:41:39 am
content: I know little about this. Maybe you can contact Tim, a engineer of optical transceivers. Via: timy@fiberoutlets.com
Unusual USB connector pattern - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fred27
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 18, 2016, 01:53:00 pm
content: In the attached photo is two USB memory sticks. They're the tiny Verbatim ones that slot directly onto the USB socket without any metal housing. I recognised the connector pattern on the green one, but what's going on with the purple one?Uploaded from my phone using Tapatalk, so I hope the image is a sensible size.

author: Zbig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2016, 03:28:13 pm
content: Someone got bored and went for the Optimus Prime logo look:https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=optimus+prime+logo&FORM=HDRSC2?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2016, 04:01:41 pm
content: More than meets the eye.

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2016, 04:38:08 pm
content: That shape could be used to detect when the drive is plugged into the slot far enough to make reliable contact (because by that point the D+/- contacts in the socket will short the forward and rear pads on the drive), but it seems kinda iffy to hang that kind of detection circuitry off of a USB interface, particularly one where presumably speed matters. I guess if you really wanted to know when the drive was about to be yanked out so you could do a graceful shutdown to avoid corrupting the flash it might be worth the trouble?

author: cowana
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2016, 09:28:08 pm
content: The only time I've seen it before is on one of those USB touch lamps (which has contacts top and bottom, and works either way up):There's no USB data comms on that though (only a PWM driver IC) - and it's a slightly different footprint, meaning someone else has come up with the same solution (and likely re-used the pattern on the lamp layout).I can only imagine it briefly discharges the data contacts to GND as the device is plugged in?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2016, 12:51:26 am
content: It could be purely stylistic, or perhaps the extra pads may be usable for production/test purposes; reminds me ofhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Differentsmartcardpadlayouts.jpg

author: PointyOintment
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2016, 07:04:35 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on October 19, 2016, 12:51:26 amWhy do those all have a center pad that is connected to an edge pad?

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2016, 07:09:15 pm
content: Those extra bits could be useful for "cleaning" the data contacts as the "plug" slides in and out.

author: ericloewe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 12, 2016, 09:00:56 pm
content: Quote from: PointyOintment on November 12, 2016, 07:04:35 pmThat's how the spec goes. I think all smart cards I've seen are like that.
Hakko FR300 question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2016, 07:10:17 pm
content: I noticed that you can get different tips for this - does anyone have comments on what tips they use and why? I'm interesting in getting one of these, but I want to know if it can also be effective with removing solder from some surface mount parts too. I mostly work with 1206 stuff.

author: lwatts666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 12, 2016, 03:32:53 am
content: The FR300 is intended for thru-hole desoldering. The tip hole needs to accommodate the component pin/lead and still have some room for the solder flow around it, but not so large that it touches surrounding pads. The tip size you need depends on the size of the component leads you need to desolder. The supplied tip suits most components. I have a larger 1.3mm tip that gets used (rarely) for larger pins such as high current connectors.It will not effectively desolder SMD parts. It will suck away most of the solder fillet, but leave the solder between the component and the pad. A hot air rework station or hot tweezers are far more effective for SMD removal.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2016, 02:35:02 pm
content: Youcanuse a desoldering gun to clean away solder from SMD pads after the component is removed—Pace has videos demonstrating this. To make better contact with the pad, they have a series of SMD tips with an optimized bevel; I don't think Hakko has something similar.But desoldering braid, freshly fluxed, will also work to achieve the same result. The disadvantage to braid is that it can become frozen to the pads which can be hard to fix without damage. The workspace also gets covered in used braid pieces if you aren't conscientious.
building LCD panels (15") for projects/products: where to start? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ironring1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 10, 2016, 06:36:05 pm
content: Hello, all. This is my first post, so I hope that I am putting it in the right place. I'm looking for information on building what usually get called "Raw LCD Panels", although they actually are LCD panels in simple sheet metal cases with mounting flanges, a power lead (usually 12VDC) and a set of video inputs. An example of one such panel that we have used is the T-View TRP1577:http://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/trp1577.htmlThe company that I work for uses these for the display screens in their pelican-case mounted controllers. The problem is finding a stable supply of a particular display panel so that we are not continually having to update the design of the aluminum panel to which we mount these, as well as the documentation for our production team.I'm leaning more and more to assembling our own panels ourselves so that we will be able to control our supply and get exactly what we want. This is where I run into trouble: Where to start? Some panels from different manufacturers come in the same aluminum enclosure/housing, so that suggests to me that there are at least SOME standard cases. When it comes to the actual panels and screens, I don't know how to sort them out (beyond the obvious specs like resolution, brightness, etc).Can anyone point me in a direction of where to start? An "LCD Panel Assembly" primer would be fantastic, and I have yet to find one. Terminology seems to be the big problem; I've searched for things like "LCD case" or "LCD enclosure" to try and at least get a foothold (I figure once I find a supplier for the sheetmetal cases it will point me in the direction of other parts and the industry terminology used).Note: what I am looking for is a 15" 4:3 screen with a composite video input capable of accepting NTSC/PAL video. An HDMI input also would be really valuable, too)

author: grifftech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2016, 03:20:59 pm
content: 16:9 is more common now

author: nali
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2016, 03:41:10 pm
content: If you want to roll your own, identify an appropriate TFT panel say AUO for example and find a local distributor, you'll probably find they do kit solutions. They're pretty simple consisting of a TFT, RGB controller, backlight inverter/driver and a LVDS cable.Make sure you get a TFT with a suitable viewing angle for your application - that means vertical as well as horizontal. 15" 4:3 is pretty specialist nowadays so choice might be a bit limited.
Share my experience about optical transceiver(SFP+/QSFP+/QSFP28/CFP) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Simian
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 11, 2016, 01:57:51 am
content: I am a engineer in Optical transceiver for over 10+years in a CM manufactory(OEM SFP+/QSFP+/QSFP28/CFP basiclly from 1G to 100G) in China for CISCO, HW, ZTE, Nokia plus ALU, Ericsson. Probablly from most of the equipment vendors you know. And also been widely adapted by white box switches from Mega datacenter in Google...These companies does not make optical transceiver themself but instead they make multi-source agreement to define this optical transceiver so the whole industry suply chain manufature the same components to reduce the costs. Further to this MSA, each company define the specs of transceivers, contents in EEPROM(which makes the transceiver to be identical to the swithes) and send the specs to the factory that meets their standards in terms of quality, cost, capacity, R&D ability and financial states.Take CISOC 10G SFP+ multi-mode 850nm SR for example, the annual volume they purchase from manufactory is 5million pcs with around $12.00/pcs. it is basiclly the same hardware in this optical transceivers we supply to HW, Nokia, ZTE and other equipments with different EEPROM content for the switches to read.All SFP, SFP+, CFP, QSFP+, QSFP28 modules contain a number of recorded values by the buyer in their EEPROM and include:l Vendor Namel Vendor IDl Serial Numberl Security Codel CRCThere are a bunch of so called compatible transceiver online claim to be functional in your switches. the chances are, they are probably some junk hardware assembly in a hand workshop.Let me know if you have any question.

author: tomeo.gonzales
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2016, 08:07:32 pm
content: it is possible to change/reprogram EEPROM content in order to make a SFP+ from ZTE work in a Cisco switch?

author: Urs42
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 07:18:50 pm
content: Yes it is possible. I wouldn't try this for anything important, and it is a lot of work. Write protection for the EEPROM was enabled on all transceivers i had. It is possible to deactivate the write protection, i had to solder a jumper wire as you can see in the attached picture.

author: Simian
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 14, 2016, 02:05:02 am
content: Quote from: tomeo.gonzales on November 11, 2016, 08:07:32 pmFirst you need to have the password for the write protection.Then you need to have the CISCO EEPROM content.Or you can check onwww.fiberoutlets.com. As I know they are programming the transceivers from those big CM in China to be compatible. Hope this would help.
60V 5A Rectifier Needed - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EricM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 03:22:23 pm
content: I was looking at some ceramic metal coatings, but the instructions say it needs a 50V, 2A rectifier with 'low-surge and no ripple'. The distributor happens to have one for $750.This is something I wanted to try before I start spending a ton of money. Most rectifiers I see go to a max of 30V. Is there a cheap 60V 5A option I can buy off the shelf?Is this something that I could hack together with a dimmer switch triac, rectifier and a capacitor? Link to build instructions?

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 03:27:30 pm
content: Are you talking about a DC power supply?

author: EricM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 04:23:56 pm
content: Quote from: madires on November 08, 2016, 03:27:30 pmYes, it calls for a 60V rectifier.Quote from: blueskull on November 08, 2016, 03:30:19 pmDoes that mean there are no cheap options? What if my thumb on the dimmer switch was the closed loop? I'm guessing a big voltage drop or spike affects the quality of deposition.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 06:01:40 pm
content: There are inexpensive dual-channel lab PSUs with 2 * 30V @ 5A. Put both channels in series and you'll get 60V.

author: CJay
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 06:11:53 pm
content: $750 is a *lot* of money for a 300 watt power supply, you could string together five car batteries and get that current easily for an awful lot less but, as others have said, you can get a lab supply which will do very nicely too.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 06:21:16 pm
content: Quote from: EricM on November 08, 2016, 04:23:56 pmI recommend you don't call it a "rectifier". This is very confusing and is apparently not what you mean.If you mean a 60 volt, 5 amp DC power supply, please call it that. Then everyone will understand you.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 07:24:51 pm
content: An HP 6438B is 0 to 60 volts at 5 amps.

author: karoru
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 07:32:34 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on November 08, 2016, 03:30:19 pmTo be honest, "no ripple" in "putting current through stuff to do chemistry" usually means LC filter after full bridge rectifier;) You'll find such schematics even in modern instrumental analytical chemistry books.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 08:34:16 pm
content: Quote from: IanB on November 08, 2016, 06:21:16 pmSome industries,like telecoms call PSUs rectifiers, but it is cinfusing in general electronics circles.You may find that a nominally 48v "telecom rectifier" can be adjusted up to 60v. These typically have very clean outputs
Weller WX2 station questions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2016, 06:51:48 pm
content: I recently bought a Weller WX2 power supply with a WXP 120 iron and have a few questions regarding the setup:When the iron is heating up, does it ever use the full 200W of power that the station can provide?What about when soldering heavy gauge copper wires, if the bar is fully lit does that mean the iron is using its full power or the station? Is it the same for every other pencil?Thanks!

author: Neganur
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 07, 2016, 08:56:37 pm
content: What bar are you taking about, doesn't the WX2 display temperature digits?I think the station is universal and effectively it is the iron you connect to it that dictates the actual power.

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2016, 09:00:25 pm
content: Quote from: Neganur on November 07, 2016, 08:56:37 pmI'm talking about the power usage bar. Of course it displays temperature digits.

author: Neganur
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 07:59:44 am
content: Alright gotta have a look later, I didn't know that it also has a power indicator.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 12:27:34 pm
content: Quote from: drummerdimitri on November 07, 2016, 06:51:48 pmAFAIK the powerbar is related to the iron connected. For instance if I use a pencil of 40W on a large copper plane it will also go to 100% but the iron itself can ofcourse never consume 200W (the wires are very thin and the heaterelement is 40W). The same I guess for the 120W iron, 100% means relative to the iron being 120W consumption and even that I think is doubtfull since the element is hot.Perhaps when it is cold it can consume slightly more power but after 2 seconds it is already hot.The only thing I can found to colaborate this is that you are not allowed to attach two 120W irons or 1x 200W iron and any other iron together at the station. This would indicate that you could overload the station and the software won't allow this.

author: CraigHB
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 12:39:00 pm
content: I'm not positive but I believe the station uses PWM to control heater temperature. In that case the power bar would only indicate duty cycle. Power output would depend on the iron connected to the base. A 40W iron at 100% duty cycle is 40W. A 120W iron at 100% duty cycle is 120W.