IN-12 Nixie data - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2014, 11:01:05 pm
content: Hi all,I just ordered 6 IN-12s from here:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lot-of-6-IN-12B-IN12B-IN12-B-Nixie-Tubes-for-clock-Made-in-USSR-NOS-/171125745584So cheap I couldn't resist. Anyway, I'm having trouble finding any sort of usable data on them. There's a load of clock kits available that use these tubes, so clearly someone knows about them. All I've found is a few pages of PDFs in Russian.If anyone could give me a hand, that would be peachyIO

author: Ghydda
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2014, 01:29:35 am
content: Nixies are shamefully tolerant devices, so getting the exact data on printed paper before proceeding is seldom necessary.1) Get a power source and set it at 170-180 volts dc (2-5 mA capability will do nicely).2) Connect in series with one power lead a resistor (std. 250 mW type will do nicely) with a value higher than 10k and lower than 100k.3) Connect resistor lead and the other power lead to any two terminals on the tube.4) Rinse and repeat.5) In a matter of minutes (by trial and error) it should be possible to locate which pin is the anode. From there it's super fast to map out the individual digits.6) The correct (current limiting) resistor value to use for any nixie tube (in a permanent application) is twice or trice the value where the digits starts to exhibit a blueish halo effect - or you could go even higher if you desire many many thousands of hours of life time.The blue halo indicates overdrive and that wears the tube very fast compared to a safe resistor value (the surface-atoms of the digits are being torn off leading to a blackening of the tube).Now get crackingOr if you just can't be bothered you could gohereinstead. But where is the fun in that.Cheers!

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2014, 01:41:31 am
content: Ghydda,I like your style, sirI shan't dare click on the link. Thanks for the info, that's hugely useful. Now I just have to wait for them to arrive... Not sure what £4 shipping from Ukraine is like though.IO

author: Ghydda
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2014, 02:01:24 am
content: Usually the bulk suppliers of nixies'n'stuff located east of the fallen iron curtain are quite reputable and odds are you will get a set of nice genuine NOS nixies.The customs people on the other hand can be a real killer time wise.At least that is my experience. I've had quite a few shipments taking 4-6 weeks before showing up.

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2014, 04:10:28 pm
content: I've got a stack of IN-12 nixies waiting to be turned into a clock/nuclear bomb countdown timer. Be sure to get theK155ID1for BCD driving, much better to get real CCCP parts than the 74141.Datasheets here:http://tubehobby.com/datasheets/k155id1.pdf

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2014, 07:02:32 pm
content: Thanks for all the info guys.I've ordered some K155ID1s too. 'Just' got to design the clock circuitry now.

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 07:12:31 am
content: I haven't found the spec sheet either, but do you know how tall the digits are... I want to make a 12 digit frequency counter (I just love old nixie frequency counters!). So I would buy 2 lots of 6 from that seller if they aren't calculator size.I really like the numitrons too, but those tend to be more expensive on the 'bay. I had a Heathkit nixie tube frequency counter when I was a kid, plus the Numitron calculator and the clock too.. I think the clock was called Panaplex, although I didn't know that at the time, to me it was just like the numitron calculator.Thanks!

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 08:10:03 am
content: IN12b uses the corona effect to show digits. The rules to use them are the same as any others vacuum tube, with the same issues. There are many ways to explain why and how. Just as many opinions that say their understanding is the only right way.Put simply IN12b are primarily made for rectified AC but will tolerate DC.Limit the DC to minimize heating.Use one or more of the tube rejuvenation methods to lengthen the tubes life. ie. Cycling, strobing, saturating, inverting, depleting, etc...If you don't the tube will likely develop shadows or haze.Yes this is over simplified to avoid any opinion specific terms.Sent from my iPad usingTapatalk

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 06:08:35 pm
content: Quote from: codeboy2k on January 12, 2014, 07:12:31 amThey are a perfect size for any bench meter, around an inch high IIRC. The soviets also cheated by making the 2 and 5 a reverse of each other instead of making more aesthetic designs. It kind of adds to the klunky CCCP charm for me. Make sure to get IN12B for the decimal place if you want to make a freq counter.Anyway, just make sure you get some proper sockets, or be a cheap arse like me and use M/F pins so you can easily replace burnt out tubes and not have to deal with soldering/de-soldering them.

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 06:11:44 pm
content: Quote from: WarSim on January 12, 2014, 08:10:03 amMultiplexing? I intend to multiplex, thinking it will use less power, and lead to longer life, but others disagree on this one.

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 06:27:20 pm
content: Quote from: Macbeth on January 12, 2014, 06:11:44 pmShort cycle multiplexing will not help power very much. Due to the inrush issues, the very generalized rule of thumb is not less than 10ms on time. Inrush is also the reason the rectified DC method is preferred.Active current control has been tried but resulted in reduced effiency.One trick I have used in the past was to use the decay curve of a starved power source. The tubes lasted for a very long time. Too long, some may say. The project was depreciated long before the tubes did.I have never used the purpose built controller chips so I don't have any input on that front.Sent from my iPad usingTapatalk

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 06:29:58 pm
content: Oops I mean rectified AC. Also yes PWM and short on time intervals do reduce tube life.Sent from my iPad usingTapatalk

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 06:47:54 pm
content: Quote from: WarSim on January 12, 2014, 06:29:58 pmFull bridge or half wave? Bearing in mind in the UK we have 240VAC which is "deemed" 230VAC (I regularly put my life on the line and use my VC99 CAT II 1000V meter, and risk certain death, yet safely measure 239VAC @ 50Hz). I guess 0.707 of full wave is around 170V so within spec. Interesting - I guess I can come up with an opto-isol circuit and not have to use my 5V DC to HVDC converter?ETA: Also, no smoothing capacitors on that rectified AC I presume?

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2014, 04:39:07 am
content: Quote from: Macbeth on January 12, 2014, 06:47:54 pm240/50 half wave is what they are made for.Just need a dropping resistor, limiting resistor, damping resistor and low side control.Just the dropping resistor if you use high voltage control which costs more.If you use this method you will need to remember to turn on the digit before the separator.No capacitor needed, the tube supplies all the capacitance needed.No certain death required.Sent from my iPad usingTapatalk

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2014, 11:07:33 am
content: Quote from: Macbeth on January 12, 2014, 06:08:35 pmOh, excellent. Yes, 1" high is a good size. Thanks. I'll think I'll go the cheap route too. Real sockets are needlessly expensive. I'll just grab a 150 or so pin sockets.

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2014, 03:12:06 am
content: Quote from: codeboy2k on January 13, 2014, 11:07:33 amYes, most certainly use a socket of some sort. Some IN12 have been manufactured with stainless steel pins. Because the bond wires from the socket are susceptible to heat, soldering is a bit risky. Done wrong the glass bulb can also be cracked.Sent from my iPad usingTapatalk

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2014, 07:27:26 am
content: Quote from: WarSim on January 13, 2014, 04:39:07 amWhat is the max voltage requirement from the driving IC, the full peak voltage of the half wave supply?

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2014, 05:08:56 am
content: Quote from: zapta on January 14, 2014, 07:27:26 amI have never used or fixed any NiXi ccts that used the driver ICs.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk