Fs: Power Designs Parts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2016, 10:27:08 am
content: Welcome to Crazy Tim's Extraordinarily Esoteric Emporium of Electronics! Up for sale today are parts that fit a variety of fine vintage Power Designs power supplies. I've lovingly collected and tested everything by hand to verify it's all in working order. It's all come out of a handful of donor units that I stripped for parts to fix units in better cosmetic shape.If you need something specific, but it's not listed, I may have it so feel free to ask. Also not shown, but available are repainted cases for the 2005/2005A, plus front panels for both in almost perfect cosmetic condition.Make me an offer on what you want; buyer pays actual shipping. Items located East Coast, US.SS44 Diodes*44 Diodes (Epoxy Encapsulated?)GI44 DiodesGI543 DiodesGI587 Diodes2005 Reference Board2005 Vernier Knob2005/2005A (And Others) Voltage Knobs {I can re-ink the numbering for an additional fee.}MS1700/S1700/WS1700 Power TransistorsMS1028A Transistors1020/1020P Transformer (100V/20V Output)2005/2005A Transformers1020P Meter (I also have a version for the 2005.)Various switches, reference housing, knobs, etc.2005A Meter2005A Switch ArrayVarious Pots (2005/2005A)2005 Case (Fully Re-Painted; Also Includes Bottom Panel)

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2016, 05:19:43 pm
content: Hi Tim,I like your new 4E shop. You're not only a rigorous restorer of renown, but also adept at alliteration.Do you happen to have a set of feet with tilting bail? I have a 6050A that's missing its rear feet and the front feet with tilting bail. Many PD supplies seem to use the same ones.

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2016, 07:49:37 pm
content: Quote from: bitseeker on April 13, 2016, 05:19:43 pmThank you!I think I might have another tilting bail in the box. I'll check for you this evening. I'm pretty sure I've got a couple of sets of feet as well.If I don't have the bail, I can make you one to spec. I made one for a supply I sold last fall; I've still got enough steel rod to make two more I think. Basically I make small marks at the bend points, stick it in a vice and heat the area I want to bend with a torch and then pull on the rod to bend it. It takes some practice, but once you're done and polish it up, it looks basically original. (The vice can leave marks, even if you're careful, but that can be almost completely removed by sanding and polishing.)

author: ozwolf
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2016, 10:26:23 pm
content: Hi Tim,Do you only have one of the analogue edge (vertical) meters? I'd be looking for three (at least).I like to make clocks from analogue meters and haven't done one in that style yet.Ozwolf

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2016, 11:00:41 pm
content: Quote from: ozwolf on April 13, 2016, 10:26:23 pmOhh, clocks out of meters... That's a super neat idea! I think I may have another one, however you might want to search eBay for "edgewise meter" first. They come in various widths, needle styles and configurations.The particular type used in these PD supplies was made by GE; you can actually buy them as New Old Stock brand new in the box on eBay. I had a PD 2020B with a broken meter, so I bought a new one on eBay and simply took the scale card out of the PD meter and popped it in the new one.I also had a 2005A with a damaged scale awhile back (the scales are curved pieces of brass with white acrylic paint on the front; the numbering was most likely silk screened with acrylic). So I removed the rest of the paint with alcohol, then used PhotoShop to create a new scale that looked identical to the factory one; I then printed it out on white adhesive vinyl and used my digital cutting machine to, uh, cut it. I basically created a sticker the exact size of the scale plate; once applied it looked factory.I bring this up because if you want, I could make custom scales for your clocks. (0-60 seconds or minutes, 0-24 hours, etc.) I can do them for pretty much any edgewise or standard meter you want, I'd just need the measurements.

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2016, 12:36:42 am
content: Quote from: timb on April 13, 2016, 07:49:37 pmThanks, Tim!Quote from: ozwolf on April 13, 2016, 10:26:23 pmThat's cool, Ozwolf. I saw someone had made a clock from some analog multimeters. Do post a thread about yours sometime.

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2016, 09:44:20 am
content: Quote from: bitseeker on April 14, 2016, 12:36:42 amJust to confirm, is this what you're after?Ignore the missing foot in the bottom right, I've got a few more of them.

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2016, 09:47:04 am
content: I also wanted to add some pictures of the refinished 2005 case that's available:Also includes the refinished bottom panel! (Not Shown)

author: krivx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2016, 09:54:01 am
content: Quote from: ozwolf on April 13, 2016, 10:26:23 pm3 for hours, minutes, seconds? Would the seconds meter wear out by moving full scale at 1Hz?

author: ozwolf
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2016, 11:35:04 am
content: Quote from: krivx on April 15, 2016, 09:54:01 amNo, not quite.The seconds meter has 0 to 59 divisions and takes one minute for full scale deflection with one second steps. My prototype unit here on my desk has been running for a couple of years with no problem and this is a cheapy eBay meter.Ozwolf

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2016, 08:38:32 pm
content: Quote from: timb on April 15, 2016, 09:44:20 amYes, those look like the ones. The mounting holes for the front feet on the 6050A are 148mm apart. On my 2010, it looks like they're 147mm apart, heh.

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2016, 09:19:31 am
content: Quote from: bitseeker on April 15, 2016, 08:38:32 pmHey, sorry about not getting back to you sooner. As I mentioned in the PM, I must have missed your reply!Anyway, the bail actually compresses inward a bit when it's installed in the front feet. When you remove the feet you actually have to be careful because the feet will sort of explode off the case when you remove the bolts. There's close to 5mm of compression on this case, so that 1mm difference shouldn't make a difference!

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2016, 11:56:49 pm
content: That sounds good Tim. Thanks for checking. Add one set of feet and bail to my shopping cart.Do you also have the locking (pull-to-unlock) toggle switches (voltage range switch)? The one on my 2010 is bent. I haven't tried bending it back, yet. I guess I'll give it a try first, to see if it snaps off.I saw that you have dials for the 20-volt supplies. Do you also have them for the 50-volt models?

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2016, 09:02:31 am
content: Quote from: bitseeker on April 23, 2016, 11:56:49 pmYup, I've got one of the pull to unlock "ON-ON" switches, however the top half of the lever portion of the toggle is missing (I guess it's threaded to accept different length levers) so if yours screws off that should work for you.I also haves small non-locking toggles with the same pinout that would fit with no modifications (these are brand new, CK brand).I don't have any volt dials for the 50V models, however the 20V dials would technically work I think. The only difference being the MSD would be labeled from 0-9 instead of 0-4 (the dial would still only turn to the 4 position of course), but that could be remedied by using a little 93% Iso to erase the unwanted digits.

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2016, 05:00:53 pm
content: OK, since you've got a switch, I tried bending mine back.It was going quite well...until the last couple of degrees. *snap!*Not surprising, though, considering that it's a hollow shaft to accommodate the locking spring. Now, I just have to find the little critter to check if the tip unscrews. Amazing how well these things can hide in plain sight.I'll be back...

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2016, 08:03:17 pm
content: Quote from: bitseeker on April 27, 2016, 05:00:53 pmDid you ever find it? XD

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2016, 09:07:56 pm
content: Nope, haven't found it yet. Do you have a photo? The switch on my 2010 looked like the one on my TP340A. This pic from my thread on the 340:I wasn't able to loosen the end on either. I didn't want to try too hard lest I break the TP340A too. Anyway, if yours is the same, I'll get it since I need something. When I eventually find the original handle I'll try again to twist the end off.

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2016, 10:48:06 am
content: Quote from: bitseeker on April 29, 2016, 09:07:56 pmSo I can't seem to find the locking toggling switch! I searched through a bunch of boxes, plus all 5 drawers of normal toggle switches... It's around here somewhere. Perhaps it fell behind my desk... I'll take a look this afternoon.In the mean time, I do have a few of these:The'll fit in a 1/4" hole, which is what all the locking toggles that I've come across on PD supplies are. I'm not sure when PD started using the locking switches. 2005's used standard 1/2" switches; some with the standard "baseball bat" style metal levers and others with large, wedge shaped plastic ones. I've seen 2020's with both locking *and* non-locking 10/20V switches as well.I've got these 1/4" non locking switches in both SPDT and DPDT variants (ON-ON x 1 and x2.)If you want one of those I'll just throw it in. I'll see if I can locate the missing PD locking one later today!

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2016, 05:30:20 pm
content: No problem, Tim. I'll wait to see if it turns up. After all, this is the Extraordinarily Esoteric Emporium of Electronics. So, if it's anywhere, it's got to be here. Anyway, I still have to find my handle.Thanks for the background on PD's use of locking vs. non-locking switches. I hadn't seen one with a non-locking one, so it never occurred to me. It's good to have the fallback plan, just in case.

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2016, 10:32:47 am
content: No luck around the desk, but I've got one last place to check. I've got a box with three or four supplies that I haven't gotten around to restoring yet, it's just behind a lot of other boxes. I've been meaning to transfer all the stuff out of the cardboard boxes and put them in plastic tubs for awhile now, so I'll do that today.I'm thinking the switch is on one of those units and not one of the disassembled ones like I thought. (I did find a switch behind my desk, a PD one in fact! But it was a 1/2" power switch.)

author: idpromnut
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2016, 03:13:56 pm
content: @timb:Any chance you have one of these PD knobs?Dimensions:Knob: 0.500 inFlange: 0.680 inID: 0.250 inThanks!

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2016, 09:46:07 am
content: Quote from: bitseeker on May 05, 2016, 05:30:20 pmSo, I finally found it! Unfortunately, the red plastic housing of the switch base itself is actually broken and missing a few pieces, which leaves the contacts exposed, so I don't think it'll work well for you in the long run. That's aside from missing the top half of the shaft!You still want the bail and feet? Like I said, I can throw in a non-locking replacement switch as well if you want it.Quote from: idpromnut on May 07, 2016, 03:13:56 pmYes, I believe I've got one! Looks to me like the unit on the left of this photo:The only difference is yours has a cutout for the position indicator, whereas mine only has a black line. Otherwise the sizes are the same!

author: idpromnut
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 10, 2016, 11:33:48 am
content: Quote from: timb on May 10, 2016, 09:46:07 amYes! That looks like it! PM sent!

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2016, 02:37:05 pm
content: Quote from: timb on May 10, 2016, 09:46:07 amYes on both counts. Thank you, Tim. PM sent.

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2016, 04:09:14 am
content: I found the broken switch handle that went flying. Just looked down from my seat and there it was.

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2016, 10:24:33 am
content: Quote from: bitseeker on May 28, 2016, 04:09:14 amHaha, damn, isn't that annoying? One time I was taking apart a S&W .40 cal semi-auto and a small spring that's part of the trigger mechanism shot out, hit the wall, landed on the bench and then rolled off onto the floor. I searched everywhere for it. I literally ripped half the garage apart, got down on the floor with a flashlight, used a magnet, etc.I couldn't find it, so I moved on... (As an aside, S&W has the best customer service ever; I called them, a real live person in the US answered and they shipped me a replacement spring via UPS 3-day, 100% free!) ...2 years later I found the original spring, on the floor at the corner of the workbench. I *know* it wasn't there all that time.It is a mystery.

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2016, 09:52:47 pm
content: LOL! Exactly. It doesn't pay to go crazy trying to find stuff. Just let it go and it'll be back.Oh, and it appears that this handle is just a single piece, no screw-on end. I guess they used different ones of these as well in various supplies.

author: dgminala
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2017, 07:52:13 pm
content: I need a complete oven assembly for a 2005A power supply. It's for a unit that's been on my shelf for several years. Bought from an unscrupulous Ebay seller that I never got satisfaction from, someone (obviously very unskilled) took it apart and apparently lost or disposed of most of the stuff inside the oven.If you (or anyone listening) has one to sell, contact medgminala at mediacombb dot netThanks!!Dave M

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2017, 02:22:47 am
content: Dave, timb's original post has a photo of the voltage reference board that's inside the oven. Do you still have the outer shell of the oven to put it into? If so, see if timb still has the board available for sale.

author: dgminala
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2017, 06:39:07 pm
content: Quote from: bitseeker on June 26, 2017, 02:22:47 amYeah, the shell is about the only thing that's still intact in my unit. And I saw the pic of the guts of the oven... thought it was from a 2005A but wasn't sure. Hope he still has the oven heater as well, otherwise, I'll have to figure a way to make it. Any idea as to the power the heater is designed to handle or the heater resistance?Thanks for the tip. How to contact timb?Dave M

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2017, 09:41:34 pm
content: I'm not sure of the specifics of the oven's heater element. Tim's done a lot more work on the 2005 models. You can message him by going to his post and clicking on the speech bubble icon below his username on the left side of the post. The tooltip for it is "Personal Message". You can include a link to your post, which is as follows:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/fs-power-designs-parts/msg1241819/#msg1241819

author: dgminala
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2017, 12:38:22 am
content: Quote from: bitseeker on June 26, 2017, 09:41:34 pmThanks for the pointers. Sent a msg to timb; waiting for his response.Dave M

author: timb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2017, 02:16:53 am
content: Quote from: dgminala on June 27, 2017, 12:38:22 amI sent you a detailed reply a few days back. Let me know if you got it!I also wanted to point out o everyone else following the thread that I will be (finally) offering my custom thermostat replacement kits to the forum soon. I've had two of them being tested in real 2005 and 2005As for several months and both seem to be working perfectly. They hold the oven temperature within 0.5c of the set point, compared to the original mechanical thermostat which had a 5c variance.My solution doesn't require you to remove the original thermostat (which is a massive job) but does require a small hole to be drilled in the top of the outer oven casing, to feed a small bead thermistor into. The temperature control circuit is analog (no MCU or clock to inject noise into the PS output) and uses a PZV (Proportional Zero Voltage) control method. The heater itself is controlled by a small SSR. Control of the SSR is, essentially, PWM with a looong period (10 seconds in this case).There are also provisions for an extra board to be installed onto the heater control PCB which will provide an output for an RGB led to indicate oven temperature (blue when near ambient, moving to red when >10c over set point). This LED could replace the existing oven lamp on the 2005/A.The heater control PCB will also let you select whether you want to oven to run 24/7 or only when the PS is on (the latter option requires you to run a wire from the main power switch to the board).Hopefully I'll have these available for sale by the end of July or early August.

author: BarryBreaux
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2023, 05:54:38 pm
content: Is this circuit available?

author: The Doktor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2023, 02:22:50 pm
content: timb hasn't been here for over 4 years, sorry.