have you ever seen deoxit visibly clean a connector?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2019, 07:11:20 pm
content: I am doing a big deoxit maintence on everything electrical here. I am kind of wondering, does this stuff ever remove actual visible deposits on equipment with just flushing action?I thought maybe to deoxit everything, wait a month, flush everything, then deoxit it again.My equipment has never really been maintained with it because frankly I was just too cheap to buy this stuff. It certainly turns into an all day affair when you decide you need to clean EVERYTHING.I never saw a before and after picture for deoxit after a month of it sitting in heavy accumulation on a connector. If its just an old ratty BNC on something, how long does it have 'cleaning power' for? Can you assume its working for an entire month or does it oxidize or get consumed or 'stratify' so you need to reapply it every day/week/etc during 'cleaning period'?I was thinking on some seriously old gear maybe you can let deoxit sit on it for a month, clean it out, then used a kneeded eraser for instance.. anything not to take like 40 equipment chassis apart. Tempting to just replace every connector but thats going to be a fleet maintence circus. I started to feel like im sitting on a time bomb with all this gear. I feel like im going to turn into mr.carlson one of these days. When I did a full cleanup/greasing of all my hand tools and toolbox stuff, it took like 40 hours. I bet replacing all these connectors would be like 400.

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2019, 02:44:25 am
content: I usually apply the Deoxit, wait 5-15minutes, then use a rag, brush, Q-tip etc. to clean off the grime. If still no good, apply again, and repeat.I don't know if it's the right way or not, but I think it makes sense to clear off the broken-up oxidation as soon as you can, or else the deoxit has to "work harder" to penetrate deeper. Again, don't know if that's true or not, but just the way I do it.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2019, 03:37:48 am
content: it says a few days in the manual that a discoloration can occur, but how long is the maximum waiting period before it stops cleaning hmm.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2019, 04:02:41 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on October 20, 2019, 03:37:48 amI won't be buying that overpriced stuff any time soon to do any mythbusting or pray sprayingand just stay with Servisol, WD40, Isopropyl alco, CRC, distilled waterand fine abrasive tools with elbow greaseso I know the job is done and no comebacksBut... if I won the lottery and bought a box of each of the magic deoxit productsI would spray up a piece of crusty gear with badly tarnished/corroded different connectors/different metalssee how it goes over a period of at least 3 to 6 monthsand find out just what that 'discoloration' is, and whether it's conductive or resistive over timeand what further spraying on top might achieveAnyone got an unloved lottery ticket their doctor has advised they won't need ?

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2019, 04:49:05 am
content: the experiment wastes alot of resources and time, if I am going to be having to spray grease on test samples I might as well just start taking gear apart and replacing connectors. It would probobly have a higher chance of success.This only makes sense if someone else did it and published it. I feel your pain with deoxit pricesI wonder how many weird problems I will run into like bulkhead connectors being there with internal coax etc if I just were to buy a bunch of good BNC connectors at bulk prices... I am worried that I will open some of these things up and there will be heinous non standard connectors on the other side. Then I get pummeled by shipping and handling cost.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2019, 10:25:46 am
content: It's not a polish. AFAIK, it's a solvent (mostly naphtha) and surfactant, which serves to loosen and wash away grime, with a corrosion inhibitor to slow recurrence.Tarn-X and others may visibly clean things, as they contain chelators that bond to metallic salts, oxides and whatnot. Certainly, anything containing abrasive, plus a little polishing action, will do. But you are removing material (both the offending compounds and base metal), and you need to clean the metal very well before putting it back into mechanical service (you don't want abrasive stuck inside your switches or connectors).Tim

author: MagicSmoker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2019, 11:07:23 am
content: I've never used DeOxit and based on its price I doubt I ever will. What I use instead for cleaning relay and switch contacts - especially if silver-plated - is good old-fashioned Tarn-X. This is basically a reducing agent - thiourea - in an oil emulsion that converts silver and copper oxide back to the base metal and the residue does a good job of preventing further corrosion.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 01:40:48 am
content: Never heard of it before today but Tarn-X styled products are here with different branding/rebadging, and do more or less the same job afaictThe gent at this site has quite a clue and very informative >www.hermansilver.com/tarn-x.htm

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 02:05:24 am
content: I have tarnX and brasso but I wondered what kind of brushes I would need to get into those things without deforming them.I threw a buncha old cables into the ultrasonic and it cleaned up the connectors OK.I was kinda thinking maybe if you are 'soaking' the rust with different molecular weight oils and flushing them out, might it cause porosity to bust away from expansion and contraction? does it work that way? I do think I noticed a better shine when I left something soaking in deoxit for a while then flushed it with cheap CRC.Lol, I thought about putting a pipe in the ultrasonic cleaner and hovering the equipment above it to insert the connector into the water with the entire equipment (would love to see this setup for a spectrum analyzer)

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 02:09:01 am
content: Quote from: Electro Detective on October 21, 2019, 01:40:48 amMaybe I'm being overly defensive of Tarn-X and those recommending it (I've never heard of the stuff before), but maybe a visually appealing polished finished on a teapot is a very different end goal than a reliable, clean switch contact?

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 03:21:48 am
content: Quote from: Electro Detective on October 20, 2019, 04:02:41 amI can clean the bird poop off my car with 400 wet and dry too. Doesn't mean it's the right tool for the job.For the record I use Deoxit but I tend to use the 100% liquid, a bit of a soak then a rub with a q-tip and then a flush with IPA. My little 7.4ml bottle has about 1/3rd left and it has seen a *lot* of use over the last 7 years. I suppose I should buy some more.I've seen corrosion turn green and float on top of a little pool of Deoxit, so it does what it says on the tin. I do have some of the 5% spray, but I don't tend to use it unless it's somewhere I literally can't get into with a brush or other instrument of non-destruction. Again, my 200g spray can has lasted about 5 years so far. Most cleaning is just generic spray contact cleaner or IPA, but when you need Deoxit it's handy to have in the tool box.These days the spray is a light hydrocarbon. The "flush" part used to be a Chlorocarbon which was a bit more effective, but I've certainly seen it lift corrosion.Just a single data-point from someone who does use it, versus the "I've never used the overpriced junk and I never will because XXX works so much better" without actually having a point to compare with.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 08:23:45 am
content: Quote from: BradC on October 21, 2019, 03:21:48 amToo true, and valid for far more topics than this!I'd like to hear what a professional metrologist does. Unfortunately it will probably involve extreme care being taken with cleanliness and storage

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 08:44:41 am
content: The real deal 'magic in a can' for techs in my woods for many years was the Philips 390CCS Contact Cleaner,I still praise in my thoughts the stranger alongside me waiting at a parts counter that put me on to itliterally 'magic in a can' till it stopped being imported due to some BS reasons, none of them financial,reasons that somehow did not affect Deoxit shipping here and selling for insane pricesI refuse to pay their 'monopoly' prices on principle first and thrift second,prices they should have reduced by now, as you don't see 'magic in a can' WD40 and CRC long timers screwing over their addicted buyers.I will make do as I have successfully using alternative methods with off the shelf bricks and mortar seller fair priced products that workDeoxit CEOs and investards waiting on a dividend percentage from me to buy a midi sized spray can for top dollar, will have a long wait...

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 10:53:23 am
content: Anyone else remember Cramolin and Deoxit being pushed as Audiophool products back in the '80s.I stick with Electrolube EML - It'ssensiblypriced!https://cpc.farnell.com/search?st=eml

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 01:34:46 pm
content: For connectors, potentiometers and switches I use Teslanol tuner spray (mild cleaner, lubricant and protection). In case of a crusty connector I apply something more aggressive like Kontakt 60 first, clean the contacts and finish off with the tuner spray. And a vaseline spray is great to protect contacts in harsh environments.

author: MagicSmoker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 02:15:26 pm
content: Quote from: BradC on October 21, 2019, 03:21:48 amWhat's with the passive-aggressiveness? I didn't say Tarn-X works better than anything else, I just said that it works well enough the few times I've used it. My main beef with DeOxit is that it is awfully expensive, but almost as important is that the active ingredient is "proprietary" and unknown. Is it safe to leave any residue behind? Who knows. Will it damage certain plastics, etc.? Who knows. Is it anything more than glorified WD-40 with some red dye in it? Who knows.Maybe it is so far superior to homebrew solutions that it justifies the price, but, again, without knowing what is in it - even generally - I can't really buy into the hype.

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 02:39:26 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on October 21, 2019, 10:53:23 amDeodit is still sold here in musical instruments stores.

author: StuartA
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 03:47:58 pm
content: Quote from: MagicSmoker on October 21, 2019, 02:15:26 pmI once sprayed Deoxit in to valve base, gave the base a good shaking and put it to one side for a few minutes to dry. I then started to solder to it and was quite surprised that it still wet with Deoxit down inside the pins, and visible fumes were coming off the base as the heat from soldering got to the Deoxit. The fumes that came off were quite choking and severely irritating to my nose and throat. I've worked with very many chemicals, and the Deoxit fumes were quite unlike anything I can recall. I certainly will make sure I don't have another experience like that.As to its effectiveness as a cleaning agent, I cannot say that I've had any experience with it that would justify the price, but I am aware of colleagues who say that they have had positive results from it when other materials have failed.

author: Quarlo Klobrigney
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 07:08:53 am
content: Yes, but do they have the magic black beauty and bumblebee capacitors? That would complete the "necessities" along with a gold plated line cord.From what I read, De-Oxit is made from oleic acid and naphtha. You can make your own. It's all over the interwebs.Quote from: Bud onYesterdayat 23:39:26>Quote from: Gyro onYesterdayat 19:53:23sensiblypriced!https://cpc.farnell.com/search?st=emlDeodit is still sold here in musical instruments stores.

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 07:18:11 am
content: I'm surprised this hasn't been mentioned yet; Deoxit seems to perform very well in this video (although I realise this is prevention, not cleaning, and says nothing about whether the price is reasonable):I think De-Oxit is made from more than just oleic acid and naphtha, even if those are majority ingredients.

author: Quarlo Klobrigney
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 07:38:03 am
content: See dealer for details. Substantial penalties for early withdrawal. Itching, sneezing, and rash or death may result, symptoms similar to a sugar pill. Let the home chemist beware.https://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=947353#p947353https://rec.antiques.radio-phono.narkive.com/gJi4Xs3i/deoxit-formulation

author: mrflibble
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 07:44:46 am
content: Quote from: rs20 on October 22, 2019, 07:18:11 amOh you bastard, I was just done collecting the links etc & ready to post.Anyways, that saves me the introductory blah, so just the info dump here:Oleic acid & 2,5-dimercapto-1,3,4-thiadiazolehttps://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/2_5-Dimercapto-1_3_4-thiadiazolehttps://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/oleic-acidhttps://youtu.be/VpRrP3sqQLw?t=1010https://patents.google.com/patent/US4193882https://patents.google.com/?q=2%2c5-dimercapto-1%2c3%2c4-thiadiazole&oq=2%2c5-dimercapto-1%2c3%2c4-thiadiazolePatent PDF in attachment.

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 09:15:54 am
content: Quote from: Quarlo Klobrigney on October 22, 2019, 07:38:03 amYou know, it's advertised that it strips the oxide off connectors, wouldn't it be surprising if it weresafeto snort?Whenever I see multiple warning labels on a bottle, I just take that as an invitation to take relevant precautions, not a reason to run. In fact, I generally think to myself "Hey, this might actually have the chemical potency to actually do something useful!"

author: MagicSmoker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 01:11:16 pm
content: Quote from: rs20 on October 22, 2019, 07:18:11 amInteresting, but note that the MSDS for the D100 formulation lists it as containing 100% of the secret ingredient. It also says the pH is non-applicable, and even a weak carboxylic acid like oleic should at least be somewhat less than 7 (though I seem to vaguely recall that pH doesn't work unless water is present?).

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 03:16:09 pm
content: Oleic acid isn't soluble enough in water to have a significant pH. (It can still be measured, but it would be measured from its conjugate base.) The other stuff I don't think ionizes much either (I forget, mercaptans are probably more acidic than alcohols at least, but that's not saying much). More important is the effect on metals -- again, chelating their ions.Tim

author: MagicSmoker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 04:15:22 pm
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on October 22, 2019, 03:16:09 pmHmm... I did some more research - why, I have no idea... - and it turns out that oleic acid is the principle fatty acid in human fat. Well, that's gross. It also has zero ability to remove corrosion and I for sure wouldn't want to leave any behind as a "lubricant" - rancid fatty acids don't smell nice if nothing else.The 2,5-dimercapto-1,3,4-thiadiazole (gotta love copy-paste) is listed as a fire retardant and corrosive. Pubchem lists salts with strong acids AND bases so I guess that makes it... uh... just like aluminum... Amphoteric is the word!Huh, the online Alfa Aesar catalog says it is, indeed, a chelating agent. And an anti-corrosion agent that is soluble in water. So is it corrosive or an anti-corrosive? Well, either way, it seems this is the active ingredient, not oleic acid.

author: Conrad Hoffman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 04:27:31 pm
content: Agree, there was once a lot of speculation that the secret ingredient was oleic acid, but it almost certainly isn't. Oleic acid is basically olive oil and that's a mess you wouldn't want in your connectors, nor does it cut oxidation to any degree that I can see. Deoxit does work well in audio equipment and you use so little that the price isn't a big deal. No idea how much it cost across the pond though.

author: StuartA
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 06:46:11 pm
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on October 22, 2019, 03:16:09 pmWell, you could buy very many kilos of citric acid for the price of a can of Deoxit. Mercaptans - they contain sulfur and stink strongly like they do, and I didn't smell any sulfurous compounds when I gassed myself.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 07:04:05 pm
content: But citric acid keeps attacking the metal. This stuff sticks to the metal surface, protecting it.Thiols aren't necessarily stinky. Chemistry being what it is, it's usually the case but there are stark exceptions. (Or maybe it just doesn't fit into any smell receptors?) I guess this substance isn't very volatile either.There are similar agents specifically for copper -- OSP (organic surface preservative) is used on unplated PCBs.Quote from: Conrad Hoffman on October 22, 2019, 04:27:31 pmClose -- hydrolyzed oil does. Fats are triglycerides, no acid content (or, very little). Rancidity tends to free some, but heat and steam do the most. Fry oil has higher levels of lower (di and mono) glycerides, and free acids.Quote from: MagicSmoker on October 22, 2019, 04:15:22 pmIndeed, oleic acid is probably chosen simply because it's an extremely common one, from plant or animal sources. Humans being animals, this is very unsurprising.(Any guesses as to whether Deoxit is vegan?...probably is though, soybean, canola and other oils are very cheap.)Incidentally, palmitic and stearic acids are saturated, which means they don't go rancid. (And its glycerides don't seem to be nearly as bad for you as saturated fats have been made out to be. Trans fats suck, but as long as you're getting a reasonable mix of saturated and unsaturated fats, it doesn't seem to matter IIRC.)Rancidity is the process of unsaturated lipids picking up oxygen in various ways (epoxide, peroxide, cleavage by ozone, etc.), and the resulting molecules and fragments are rather unpleasant, hence the smell (and feel, if you have the misfortune of eating it). They're probably not great for metals, either; I don't think oleic acid degrades all that fast, but I kind of wonder if palmitic would do better?Tim

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 10:42:04 pm
content: Quote from: Conrad Hoffman on October 22, 2019, 04:27:31 pmCompared to $9 to 20-ish dollars for other{FULL SIZE}canned spray productsit's about 40 bucks for a can of that magicsecret jizzingredient spray here, plus petrol or post etca can that's sized small enough to accidentaly slip down the kitchen drainand flushed out to sea.. to choke some sealife already doing it tough out thereTBH: If it was say $18.95, and a sixth as good as the claims, I might think about trying the stuffand compare head to head with the other canned products I use, in the manner I described earlier,and return here with a double thumbs down 'Audiophool' ratingOTOH if it's a keeper, start eating a family sized humble pie in public view hereor simply state it's no better than other competitive realistically priced products,and like the competition, won't bring a rooted pot or switch back to lifeor decrease resistance on a corroded terminal hanging on by one strandwhich can be the case in many pieces of gear that can take hours to -carefully- take apart and reassemble.to replace parts that no magic spray will ever fix

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 10:43:00 pm
content: We discussed it a bit here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/corrosion-inhibitors/For steels:Ballistol ingredients: Isobutyl Alcohol and Oleic acid. Not safe on copper metals (will dissolve it).Gunzilla ingredients: Not known, claimed to be vegetable based oil and similar formula to what is in the applied science vid, "leaves a non-ionic coating for lubrication and protection". Amazing corrosion protection.Both are non-toxic.There is a reason gunzilla + deoxit want to keep their ingredients secret.Quote from: Conrad Hoffman on October 22, 2019, 04:27:31 pmHow would it not cut oxidation, its coating the surface. Did you watch the Applied science video?https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0144861716306634https://www.materials.sandvik/en/materials-center/corrosion-tables/fatty-acids/https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/1478422X.2017.1355657?journalCode=ycst20

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 11:40:15 pm
content: Quote from: thm_w on October 22, 2019, 10:43:00 pmAnd herehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/metrology/contact-cleaner-for-metrology-grade-connections/

author: mrflibble
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2019, 07:03:51 pm
content: In an effort to prevent certain assumptions...The sulfur "in the bottom" takes care of attaching the whole mess to some iron, and those long oleic acid chains flapping in the breeze take care of the coating of the metal surface. Additionally some electron exchange dancing, but that would require some actual reading, which might be too much to expect for today.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2019, 10:15:27 pm
content: Oh neat, so it condenses, spontaneously I guess? Or maybe in situ (metal catalyzed?). That would indeed be a good reason to choose oleic in particular.Tim

author: StuartA
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2019, 02:45:35 am
content: OK, so that big molecule with the S atom at its centre looks like something that could bond to a metal surface and impede corrosion, but is that same molecule responsible for the "cleaning function", if we regard Deoxit primarily as a contact cleaner?Of course, one of the reasons most common metals don't actively corrode is that they form a (very) thin protective surface layer of oxide, so what is the name Deoxit implying?

author: Quarlo Klobrigney
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2019, 04:59:18 am
content: Just say no to bad drugs....and oxide coatings.Only DeOxit oxides are the good ones. All others are inferior.Quote from: StuartA onTodayat 11:45:35

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2019, 08:14:57 am
content: I'll say NO to bad drugsif someone lists some good alternativesbut oxides bad or good won't be happening here

author: MagicSmoker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2019, 11:25:22 am
content: Quote from: mrflibble on October 23, 2019, 07:03:51 pmHmm... How would an addition reaction between oleic acid and that 2,5-dimercapto-whatever remove corrosion from metal? I'm genuinely curious here, not challenging from a position of ignorance...

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2019, 07:04:54 pm
content: The molecule can stick to ions in multiple places, forming a very stable complex, which is also a soluble salt. EDTA is a familiar relative (based on short carbon chains, two nitrogen centers, and four acid ends) used in foods.Don't know that the solubility or reaction rate would really be adequate for use as a hands-free polish (for example, Fe(III) oxides are notoriously stable, indeed geologically so*; silver and light copper corrosion tend to be thin and easily moved, however), but I can still see how it can help separate oxide from bare metal, acting as a surfactant to both materials.Much as flux helps oxides to lift off molten solder, even if it isn't actively dissolving them.*Some of the biggest iron deposits in the entire world, are banded iron deposits, dating back to over three billion years ago. These are in fact fossils of the first life on Earth, or rather, of their farts -- cyanobacteria that oxidized the abundant iron in the early oceans (which would've looked green from dissolved Fe(II), and would've had fairly low pH). This went on for hundreds of millions of years, until all the iron was finally oxidized out of the ocean, and oxygen began filling the water column -- and the atmosphere -- making life as we know it, possible. Anyway, iron oxide is so stable that, despite literal eons of soaking in cold seawater, hot hydrothermal fluids, geologic metamorphosis and weathering, we still have massive deposits around today, that can literally be loaded into blast furnaces, yielding acceptable grades of iron. (Well, had; most high-grade and easily accessible ore has since been used up, of course.)Tim

author: StuartA
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2019, 03:41:20 am
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on October 24, 2019, 07:04:54 pmBut even if it takes the oxide off, atmospheric oxygen will react to replace it pretty quickly. It goes back to the old argument that none of us has ever seen a piece of aluminium, but only the oxide layer which is covering it.It is a very interesting subject, involving oxide layers which may be only a few atoms thick, adsorbed layers maybe a monolayer thickness and an untold number of contaminants (dirt, crud, corrosion products etc) of a wide range of thicknesses.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2019, 03:35:07 pm
content: Evidently the complex binding to the surface is better than oxygen binding to the surface. This obviously isn't the thermodynamic case (combustion releases energy from the bulk, the complex formation is a one-time surface event), but it doesn't need to be to slow things down. It's about the kinetics.I could speculate on the reasons, but have no idea which ones are dominant until I see calculations or experiments showing the mechanism.Also, we've always seen aluminum, because the surface oxide is thin and transparent, or at worst, translucent -- hard anodize is thick enough to scatter light.(Or if you instead make the argument that, on a quantum level, because that photon has interacted with the surface it's no longer the original photon as such, then you've never seen anything but the atoms neighboring your eye's rhodopsin and whatnot.)Tim

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2019, 03:00:02 am
content: speaking of metals you have never seen, does anyone find a PCB during etch to look fascinating?Like, the second you take it out of the ferric etch solution.. it will not last long but it looks very interesting (try doing it outside in natural light around 2-3 pm during summer months)

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2019, 03:37:06 am
content: What, you mean the sheen due to the varying layer thickness (and probably color due to changes in concentration and oxidation state)?Tim

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2023, 07:03:47 am
content: inspected some connectors I treated a while ago that looked bad under magnification on a old power supply. The ones treated with deoxit that had degraded plating had a significant amount of green crystals form. This wiped off easily with a q-tip. Kind of a slurry state I would say, not caked on.green colored q-tip. It looks like I should use a fine brush and a flush spray on them to get rid of that shit.