hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
plasma cutter angle iron cutting jig - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2025, 02:27:21 am
content: I messed up a bunch of cuts on my last piece of angle iron and managed to light a polishing buff on fire, but I found a excellent solution to cutting angle irons at the end, so I can get 1/3 of my clamp project done.Typically a plasma cutter has a dome tip and then a strait cylinder. Its very annoying because you think that you can use a flat bar as a guide, but its not tall enough. If you just use another angle iron, its difficult to align and you need clamps. So its a pain in the ass when you wanna cut on a bench vise or something like that. Like seriously you gotta get magnets or a clamp, and do fucking visual alignment shit with the plasma cutter head. And its always some rusty shit, so you can't just loose the clamp to slide it, its like annoying as fuck to set it up. Shit keeps getting caught, moved, etc. Usually its not tall enough so your in a danger area of like 'riding the curved section of the plasma cutter', especially when it starts throwing sparks and metal at you because you moved too fast during the cut., Its literally like the most annoying slow thing ever to set up for cutting an angle iron in a vise.But, in most hardware stores they sell various corner braces for building shitty tables, which happen to be bent precisely, deburred, etc.I had this kind of corner brace in the metal shelf for about 5 years, and I kept thinking one day it will come in handy for something. If you get that kind, with a sharp bend (thinner is better), you can chuck it into the vise nested on the angle iron and it works extremely well. You loosen the vise to do alignement and it seems that when you tighten the vise, things seem to stay in the same place you left them. I was even able to basically cut 1/4 inch steel iron in one go, working around the curve. The one in the picture is bent kind around, but it seems that its a older style... Can't find a picture online.It made me so happy. I thought about making some kinda special thing a few times, but its one of those things that unless its like right there I will just find another way of doing it instead of making something. Lack of this easy tool makes me not wanna use the plasma cutter for anything but table top work, where you can use a unequal leg heavy duty angle iron as a cutting guide. Right now I am thinking to add a nice handle on the shitty galvanized steel $4 cutter jig. Maybe I will even make a wooden case for it with velure inlay LOLalso polishing buffs are a fire hazard, it smouldered a little after getting hit by sparks so I threw it on the middle of the concrete floor after seemingly stopping the reaction, and it seemed OK. like 10 min later I noticed there is some unexpected smoke, so I stomped on it some more and found there was embers inside of it! I gotta get into the habit of putting them in the tool box when Im done using em. If I quickly made precise cuts with the newfound jig, I would have had a clear head and dumped it in the water bucket
Warm Engine Starting Problems and practical solutions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ahsrabrifat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2025, 07:42:51 pm
content: Hello experts,I’m writing a blog post on the Top 10 Car Heaters in the Market, and while doing some background research, I stumbled across this article on Why Does a Car Struggle to Start When the Engine is Warm?https://www.foxwelldiag.com/blogs/car-diagnostic/warm-engine-starting-problemsIt got me thinking—some of the “car heater” products I’ve seen are more than just cabin warmers. Some actually help manage engine block temps or prevent starting issues in colder (and oddly, sometimes warmer) conditions.For those of you who’ve tinkered with or designed aftermarket car electronics, or maybe just dealt with DIY engine heating solutions:- Have you come across heating devices that actually help mitigate warm-start problems?- Any solid-state or automotive-grade components you'd recommend for building a reliable 12V car heater circuit?I’d love to include some technical insights from real-world tinkerers in the article—any thoughts or experiences would be awesome!Thanks you.
C.O.T.S. servo control options? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rthorntn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2025, 08:24:35 am
content: Hi,So I have converted my bandsaw and mill to servos.They have XP200 electronics:https://github.com/digiexchris/RP2040-XP200-RTU-Speed-Controller/blob/main/XP200-english-manual.pdfIdeally there is a C.O.T.S controller with a display, encoder and buttons that I can plug in to the XP200 I/O connector and it allows me to switch it on/off, set the RPM and direction, is there something like that out there, sub $100 kinda thing?Or do I have to build something?Thanks.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2025, 09:19:16 pm
content: It has a direction and pulse input, so you could use a stepper controller module, maybe this one:https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804938654424.htmlbut its not going to read in RPM.The other option is using that persons github that you linked, control speed with the RP2040, and attach a screen and rotary encoder to the RP2040. They have a ssd1306 lib as well.https://github.com/digiexchris/RP2040-XP200-RTU-Speed-Controller/

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2025, 12:20:23 am
content: Is the mentioned name "XP200" some sort of commonly used standard in small industrial style servos? If so, that RP2040 project for controlling it looks a useful thing to bookmark.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2025, 10:50:45 pm
content: I'm not exactly sure what you're looking for. However, you can buy motor and driver sets made for industrial sewing machines for around EUR 200 on Ali Express. There are a bunch of different variants, and motor power is between 600W and 900W. Apparently these motor sets are very popular in the DIY market to upgrade small lathes. You can find more info on these on forums related to metal machining and CNC.
tales of bright dips - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2025, 11:28:03 pm
content: I thought it would be useful if people wrote about bright dip formulations they have tried or concoctions they made for various metalsBright dip is how you can level a surface and offer a degree of polishing through chemicals alone, there is no electricity applied. They seem to use oxidizing acids. I just wanted to hear first hand accounts of these things. Hopefully people can stop trying to mechanically polish complicated crap by using these formulas or products.The basic idea seems to be a oxidizing acid, other acids, additives and a dissolved salt (i.e. copper sulfate for copper, aluminum phosphate for aluminum)Last year I did a bunch of coaxial experiments that involved dealing with the ID of tubes (and also electroplating and electropolishing and electrocleaning and experiments with plasma electro polishing) and it burned me out so bad that I have not opened my shop door since early November. Identifying and evaluating mixtures is grueling, and I think this knowledge should be shared. I actually don't want electricity. I want to throw it into a beaker of liquid and handle nothing more then a stop watch and my titanium tweezersthe atoms and ions can do work for you, you don't need to sit there rubbing and spinning things like your in the fucking marine corps, leverage the reactive nature of metal, etcI am not saying that it is a substitute but its cleaner, easier, and might be good enough or reduce your work load substantially.
What grease is best for THK GSR20T LM Block? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2025, 04:50:40 pm
content: I have a CNC machine with 12(well only 10 now b/c I lost 2, long story) THK GSR20T LM Blocks and matching rails.Each block has a fully working grease nipple.I am currently using this grease, but I'm not so sure it's the best choice as it seems a bit too thick:https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rotella-special-duty-moly-grease-400-g-0280841p.htmlWould Super Lube be better?Load-bearing ability is not too important, as there is not too much weight and it is distributed across 4 LM blocks/axis.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2025, 09:55:07 pm
content: You can find the official list here:https://www.thk.com/jp/en/products/accessories_for_lubrication/thk_original_grease/But super lube is better if you want a clean rail that won't pick up too much dust and don't care about the official grease.Lithium seems recommended:https://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/6329-grease-thk-bearings-carriages.html#post472938Also note if you do change the type you'll have to clean them out.

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2025, 10:36:34 pm
content: I cleaned them out and used lithium complex grease.I think synthetic grease can be mixed with lithium b/c it is basically inert.
ringworld and dyson sphere fun - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2025, 05:12:54 am
content: https://phys.org/news/2025-03-dyson-spheres-ringworlds-stable.htmlI remember endless discussions about this, its nice to have a solution that reduces the requirement for insane tensile strength materials.Certainly makes the last episode of TNG with Scotty in it feel less like corny sci-fi and more like hard sci-fiIIRC the previous revision dyson sphere got violently attacked by engineers and the ring was under extreme suspicion.Nice to have a solution thats not a 'network'. All that talk about swarms made me wanna spray people with bug spray.Quote
Why does this knockoff DM860H have only half the flyback diodes? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 05:48:00 pm
content: Each motor connection (4 in total) is connected to the anode of a diode.I think the cathode of each diode is connected to VCC; I will verify ASAP.Why is there no diode between GND and the motor connections?I made an external flyback diode board with complete diodes, but when I plugged it in, one of the resistors blew up!I'm 99% sure my flyback diode board works; I will test ASAP.What's going on here???Huh?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 10:29:25 pm
content: Missing photo or schematic.

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 02:34:04 pm
content: I think I fixed it?There was a short in my flyback diode board.When I connect it to power it does not work, but that's probably because the transformer I have for testing is only 40VA@24VAC, which is not nearly enough.(The motor driver was really designed for like 57VAC)Might be broekn though.Will do more testing.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 09:47:49 pm
content: Its rated for 18-80VAC so 24VAC would not cause any failure. You just won't get full torque and speed.

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 11:52:08 pm
content: There's some sort of short hidden in the driver somehow.Probably some sort of tin whisker or something.The machine is at my high school.The driver is back at my house because it does not work.
guidelines for adding a 'coin' heat sink to a pcb - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2025, 02:37:02 am
content: You can get PCB coins installed at some board houses but I was wondering about the guidelines for attaching one properly, for a flush coinThe main question that come to mind1) how big of a 'ledge' do you need to seat the coin on (how big the relief is for a good joint, so its not a butt joint)or2) do they solder these into a complex plated through hole structure on the perimeter, or are they glued in to bare fiberglass?or3) is it perhaps a tapered shape that goes into a tapered hole so it can't fall out the bottom?Some random videos just show a actual coin, I thought it would have a more complex edge geometry to make a better jointIt should be easy enough to machine a ledge into a 'coin' if its glued to something on a small mill

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2025, 08:23:40 pm
content: Just noticed an option for via covering on JLCPCB: "copper paste filled & capped"Says it is 8 W/m.K
how big a deal is abrasive embedding for paste abraisve processes? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 09:32:09 am
content: I got a assortment of various things related to abrasive pastes and I need compounds to use with them.First I was going to go with diamonds but I started reading that people have alot of trouble with embedding. I thought I read or saw something that said that ultrasonic cleaning can take care of it, but I am not sure how thoroughly. I was worried that it might get stuck with the lowest grit compound.Silicon carbide.. I don't know if it embeds or not. At least it might get blunted fast enough that its easy to clear?And then I found timesavers compounds, which claim to not embed, but I guess they are highly friable, and might cut slow.I also read that some people can scrape some tools with a razor blade and stuff like that, but it seems dubious.Is avoiding diamond actually a good idea to help keep your tool options up?

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 07:26:44 pm
content: So what material are you abrading?If it's steel, not much problem with abrasive embedding.Plastic, on the other hand ...

author: Stringwinder
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 09:20:08 pm
content: This is some of the grinding/polishing stuff I use.Diamond 10" sharpening stones 150, 400 grit and whetstones 1500, 3000 grit.For kitchen knives, wood cutting tools, scalpel blades and flat metal surfaces.Literally razor sharp when correctly done.Round grinding/polishing diamond discs 150 mm, 180, 600, 1500 grit.Lathe tools, steel and carbide.Cerium oxide on felt discs for polishing glass (like windshields).3M Perfect-It III from coarse to ultrafine for paint, plexi and softer materials.Rotating soft discs of various hardness or on thin cloth on a metal base."Embedding" is not something that is connected with any of these methods.Rather the contrary if you use diamond powder pressed into a tin disc for polishingmaterials much harder than the tin base.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 09:39:53 pm
content: I meant like for traditional serrated iron laps etcI read some people will go as far as to re-grind the surfaces when they want to go to a lower abrasive size. Is it really that bad?If you want interesting, copper tape + diamond powder + granite plateI have alot of 'pre loaded' diamond tools, but this is for bare ones that use a oil paste
Replacement for THK GSR20T LM Block and rails - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2025, 02:39:13 am
content: I am repairing a 30 year-old CNC machine.It is a 3-axis XYZ CNCX router.It uses THK GSR20T LM guides and rails on all axes.The X axis and the Y axis work great.However, I only have 1 working LM guide for the Z-axis (2 are broken, 1 mysteriously disappeared).I really don't want to buy 3 THK LM blocks, they are absurdly expensive.The Z-axis does not have to be quite as strong as the other axes.Would it be make sense to just buy new Chinese rails and LM guides and just sell the existing rails and LM block (plus the broken LM blocks)?Are there any LM blocks that use M5 screws and have the same screw layout?The rails also need to work with the existing anchor holes, which are also M5.Thanks!

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2025, 10:14:16 pm
content: GSR20T blocks are $40-60 on ebay, is that too expensive?You can look up the drawings and find the dimensions and compare them:https://tech.thk.com/en/products/pdfs/en_a01_290.pdf
Is my question on Structural Engineering (Stonework) appropriate here ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: RJSV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2024, 06:12:45 pm
content: Hey:I've seen some science TV show discussing old buildings, in Greece and in Spain.Does anybody have skills to answer questions about STONE constructed buildings ?I'm just wondering about the columns that seem to be discrete sized units, perhaps about one meter tall, each segment. Do those stone joints have any pre-applied 'grout' or other material, to help resist lateral slippage ?That's a purely mechanical question, but should be ok in this section (or not ?).Thanks,Rick B. struggling Inventor.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2024, 10:15:59 pm
content: Did you notice the "Electronics" part in the forum name?In short: No.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2024, 10:23:07 pm
content: Do you also ask stonemasons questions about electronics?Do you think they could give answers you could trust?
How to create some feedback to LinuxCNC over parallel port. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 05:27:58 pm
content: I have a PMDX-122 CNC breakout board that is connected to a PC running LinuxCNC on Debian via a parallel port and parallel port card.The PC, breakout board, cable, and parallel port card work properly.I intend to design a circuit so the E-Stop button pauses the current LinuxCNC job when pressed, and resumes the job when released.How can I configure LinuxCNC to pause when it receives a signal on one of the parallel port inputs (probably pin 10-15)?If LinuxCNC is not capable of doing this, what software do you recommend?I can run Windows 7 32-bit on my PC.Mach 3shouldwork on Windows 7 32-bit.However, when I run Mach 3, the PC just turns off instantly and reboots.I would like to avoid Mach 3 if at all possible.

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 06:08:43 pm
content: I intend to use parallel port pin 10 to transmit the E-Stop pause/resume signal to LinuxCNC.Is that possible?I also would like to wire up homing switches.I can use pins 11, 12, 13, 15 to communicate with the PC.Pin 10 is reserved for the E-Stop function built into the breakout board.The breakout board is configured so the output buffers are output only (PC-to-driver) and are always on, regardless of the E-Stop button.

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 06:13:47 pm
content: https://www.pmdx.com/Doc/Archive/PMDX-122_Manual_111.pdf

author: reboots
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2024, 06:23:42 pm
content: LinuxCNC does have a pause/resume function. Input pins 11, 12, 13, and 15 should be accessible through HAL signals parport.0.pin-11-in ... parport.0.pin-15-in. The exact details for configuring one of these as pause/resume will depend on whether your estop button is momentary or latching, i.e. whether you need to include toggle logic in software.Here's an example of someone's HAL config for an external pause/resume button through the parallel port:https://forum.linuxcnc.org/forum/49-basic-configuration/29885-cycle-start-pause-resume-buttonUnfortunately I am a novice at HAL configuration, and can't give you more specific details. I encourage you to ask on the LinuxCNC forum.

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2024, 03:10:08 pm
content: The e-stop is latching.It is not momentary.

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2024, 02:44:46 pm
content: I want the voltage state of pin 10 on the parallel port to determine whether LinuxCNC is paused.e.g. When pin 10 is HIGH, run the program/jog axis/home axis; when pin 10 is LOW, pause all actions.It may be the other way around (pause when HIGH, run when LOW).

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2024, 12:14:37 am
content: I just tested it.LinuxCNC should pause when pin 10 goes HIGH and resume when it goes LOW.
Sealant Storage - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2024, 08:46:49 pm
content: G'day Members,Has anyone perfected a better method of storage of 300ml Silicon & Polyurethane Sealant cartridges?Based on my experience, I would think that the world wide wastage of these products is massive.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2024, 09:04:50 pm
content: short term screw up the nozzlemedium as above and chuck it in an airtight baglong term forget it,chuck it away and buy a new tube

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 16, 2024, 09:13:11 pm
content: Have you seen the red caulking gun cartridge caps/condoms?A search on eBay/AliExpress/Amazon/whatever marketplace for "Caulking Gun Nozzles Cap" should bring them up.I bought some to try, but I've not needed to start (or even buy) a new cartridge recently.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2024, 09:16:04 pm
content: They're included, in addition to other methods, in this video...

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2024, 08:04:25 am
content: Thank you for your replies.I did see the Red Condom style and will try an obtain some.It would be great if we could extend the shelf life and keep the stuff out of landfill.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2024, 08:21:44 am
content: I use those red caps and they work well. Last time I checked a tube or two, the contents were still very good several months after opening. I don't have longer term results.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2024, 01:08:28 pm
content: Quote from: rsjsouza on October 17, 2024, 08:21:44 amThat tends to be the problem, you grab a tube, only to find that you haven't used it for a couple of years. I pulled out my only (part used) tube of high modulus black silicone a while back, only to realize that it was several years old and the entire volume had cured. I ended up sawing the tube into equal lengths, popping out the resulting silicone pucks and using them as vibration damping feet for my valve amp. Does that count as a tech tip?!

author: Xena E
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2024, 01:36:35 pm
content: Wrap a piece of tape around the nozzle to seal it up.Quote from: Gyro on October 20, 2024, 01:08:28 pmConsider the idea stolenI may have to make some molds though.

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2024, 02:24:54 pm
content: Yea, I also tape it and squeeze a bit so any gaps are filled.
Over-current protection for a 220V motor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: pcm81
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2024, 02:40:15 pm
content: I am sizing up a magnetic starter for my 4HP air compressor. I have Eastwood QST30/60 compressor and it is supposed to pull 17A on 220V single phase. What value should i set the mag starter over-current switch? Is there a an equation or a percent rule like 120% of rated current should be a cut off?Thanks aheadEDIT: Eastwood claims it to be a 4HP motor, but the 17A current they are advertising is more inline with 3HP single phase draw... so who knows...The only way i can get 17A draw on 4HP motor is if it is only 80% efficient.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2024, 10:33:13 am
content: As far as I know, those motor switches are normally set to the nominal motor current, and they have built in mechanism (usually a bimetalic switch) that allows for short duration over currents. But if your application allows it, you can set it to a bit lower current. With this you may also be able to catch some faults that cause increased friction.4kW / 220V = 18.18A. If you want horses, then give them some hay or grain. Horses and cows are much more sensitive to electricity then humans because their hooves are so far apart. Especially for things like ground current due to nearby lightning strikes.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2024, 11:41:51 am
content: Quotewere'd 4 kw come from, 4HP is around 3kw.

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2024, 01:42:01 pm
content: Air compressors all claim silly power figures, go by the data plate amperage, or use a clamp meter and see what it pulls near your set cutoff pressure.Google AI hallucinations claim the overload setup varies by manufacturer, some trip at set point, others trip at something like +25% indicated to add in an overload factor for you. Read the manual.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2024, 02:17:28 pm
content: Quote from: themadhippy on September 09, 2024, 11:41:51 amAre you sure about that? I thought 4HP was about 4 bushels of hay per day.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metrication_in_the_United_States

author: Xena E
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2024, 01:47:02 pm
content: Mad Hippy is correct 1bhp is 748Watts so 4 ≈ 3kwHay is measured by thenetfor horse feed, not the bushel.(😁)X

author: Xena E
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2024, 01:54:04 pm
content: Quote from: pcm81 on September 08, 2024, 02:40:15 pmMeasure the current at normal load, (this will be less than the full rating) then set the trip current 10-20% above that.X
Oetiker Single Ear Clamps - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2024, 07:08:38 am
content: G'day All,Do any of you overseas Forum Members have a source for Oetiker #15400013 Tubing Clamps.I need a couple to complete a pneumatic repair but can only source 100 off @ $approx $400 AUD in Oz.Hoping to purchase 10-20 off.https://www.oetiker.com/en-us/products/clamps-and-rings/ear-clamps/pg--153_154

author: mendip_discovery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2024, 06:08:02 pm
content: Seems that most people want to sell packs of 100 even here in the uk. The ones that sell them individually all seem to be out of stock. I Have HCL near me and a hydraulics firm so will ask when I go in later.What size is it you want.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2024, 08:35:28 pm
content: 153 3.3 – 30.7 mm154 2.9 – 30.0 mmCan you just use a 1" PEX clamp?

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2024, 07:50:58 am
content: Thanks you for your responses.The #15400013 covers a tubing size of 3.7mm to 4.7mm OD.The clamps are used to seal a Polyurethane tube to a Reference Tube on a DP Transducer.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2024, 08:49:35 pm
content: Yeah I see, missed that part.The smallest I spotted on aliexpress was 4.7mm and up:https://www.aliexpress.com/i/1005005594201277.html
how to bond woven polyethelene membrane? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2024, 03:20:11 am
content: I spent a pretty penny on buying a woven polyethylene membrane for electroplating, because typically I associate "felt" materials with getting waterlogged and making a mess.Anyway the stuff I got is almost like paper, you can tear it and it has the same thickness.How could I seal the bag so its resistant to copper or nickel plating solution?I thought it was going to be cloth like, but I am not sure if its wise to try to sew this material, and I don't know what to sew it with.I have super glue and low surface energy plastic primer, which does bond polyethylene and teflon OK, but I don't think super glue is going to hold up to etchant.Does anyone have any ideas other then silicone? I thought some kind of paper staples might work, but I don't want steel in my bath, it will just contaminate it.Does anyone know about say, titanium office staples or something? I know you can get inconel staples for a big stapler for outdooor project, but thats not suitable. Or titanium tubular rivets?Best idea i have is to cut small slots and use titanium ribbon to make a 'crimp'

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2024, 03:50:56 am
content: actually I am just confused, the membrane MIGHT be this white tissuey stuff, and the blue stuff is like a wrapper. both of them are plastic loland it welds fine with a soldering iron actually so you don't need glue. i wish they told me what color I was looking for, it was hidden under the first layer of the rollah ok its the white stuff, and it easily is bonded with heat, and its more like a tissue or something, the blue stuff is some kind of protective cover.its kind of like a kleanex "puffy" tissue.and its not woven, its non woven. there must have been difficulty with the translations lolalright I managed to make a sock out of it using the lowest power soldering iron settings on a hakko and a light touch, with almost no burn throughs.
Astonishing machinery hoard - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2024, 09:57:39 pm
content: The most machinery/tooling you've ever seen - unbelievable!

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2024, 10:54:23 pm
content: Nice collection. That Hardinge is a great lathe, but it is not not the cherished HLVH. It also looks like a threaded spindle. Mine is a decent lathe (Smart & Brown) that looks similar, but it also has a threaded spindle. That's a real disadvantage when using a chuck (rather than collet as that one has). It is quite a hairy ordeal to machine in reverse, which is what I am trying to compensate for with my threads on the Mitutoyo DRO. He had a lot of tooling, and that can be more important. Some people neglect that aspect.I am not really a hoarder, but I am a keeper. I still have and use some tools I got 70 years ago while in elementary school. All of my big stuff dates from the mid-1970's. I do love tools.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2024, 06:12:48 pm
content: I think the same video was posted here on EEVblog a few weeks or months ago. And I was not very impressed by the video. Sure there is a lot of stuff in it, but they do not even try to show any of the capabilities of the machines. It's just some guys waving a camera around and not focusing on anything.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2024, 08:17:52 pm
content: Everything is piled on top of another and nothing is plugged in, not sure how you would show the capability of any of these machines.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2024, 01:07:55 am
content: Quote from: thm_w on September 23, 2024, 08:17:52 pm1. Note their brand name / type number.2. Search youtube for other video's.

author: Stray Electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2024, 01:33:01 am
content: Quote from: Doctorandus_P on September 23, 2024, 06:12:48 pmIt appears that the people that made the video are auctioneers that were called in to "dispose" of someone else's home shop and not the original owner.

author: MadTux
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2024, 01:30:37 pm
content: Quote from: Doctorandus_P on September 23, 2024, 06:12:48 pmWell, then buy the stuff and play around with it yourselfShowing every machine there with every detail would be a few days of video and probably the guys filming it, don't know every detail themselves.That's why you usually go visit a machine before buying, so you can watch and play with it yourself and see, whether it's a worn out turd or worthy of rescue.
seal material for storing shop chemicals? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2024, 02:26:41 am
content: I have a can of wood putty that is severely rusted. I can transfer it into a jar but usually I have bad results with storing this kinda semi volatile stuff.What is a seal material that can be used in a jar (cut out with scissors) to contain this stuff?

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2024, 07:05:10 am
content: Teflon and similar:https://www.calpaclab.com/chemical-compatibility-charts/

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2024, 07:08:44 am
content: is there a product meant to interface with jars or a thickness or durometer or something I am 99% sure I will get the wrong thing

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2024, 09:20:44 am
content: So am I. Just how much can one perseverate over a bottle/jar lid that has been in use at least since the 1960's.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2024, 07:48:00 pm
content: they all suck and evaporate or harden or rustI thought there might be a trick for it, like lapping the top of a jar and adding some kind of gasket thingI don't think it will work if its too thin or too thick, seals are always hard to engineer. I am hoping someone empirically came up with a answer for most chemicalsIf I can put it in a bottle it would be easy to get a good bottle, but putty needs to be in a wide mouth jarregular jars seem to work like shit for anything that is not water based

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2024, 09:06:02 pm
content: It's a trade off, you can have a perfectly lossless container (e.g. glass ampule) but they tend not be as convenient as something using a soft compliant seal.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2024, 09:10:19 pm
content: well the manufacturers like to put like paper there that slowly makes your product disappear. It seems good for one closing (theirs) only. I am convinced some of these expatriation dates are for their shitty containers, not the chemicals lolI just had to pour out 1 gallon of unopened wd40 into another container because it rusted so much there was oil on the bottom when i moved it (but no real leak yet)!Those metal solvent containers are pretty crap (cans). If you use a big pipette or something with them, its better, but its still IMO garbageAlways a good idea to look through chemicals before it gets cold, because damaged containers + cold = leak.
Problems with CAN 2.0 comunication on Wago PLC (Codesys 3.5) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: FlyingDutch
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2024, 09:44:15 am
content: Hello,I am trying to program CAN Bus comunication on WAGO PLC (more precisely on WAGO Touch Monitor model TP600).I am using for this purpose library "WagoAppCanLayer2" from Wago company. My IDE for programming this device is CODESYS V3.5 SP19 Patch 2 + (64-bit). My program is written in Structured text using function blocks from previously mentioned library. Here is code of this program:1) Variables declarationsCode:PROGRAM PLC_PRGVARoOpenInterface : WagoAppCanLayer2.FbCanL2Open :=(udiBaudrate := 125000 );xInterfaceIsOpen : BOOL;sInterfaceInfo : STRING;oReceive : WagoAppCanLayer2.FbCanRx29BitFrame :=(xBufferMode := FALSE,wCanId := 16#181 );xRecv : BOOL;sReceiveInfo : STRING;oSend : WagoAppCanLayer2.FbCanTx29BitFrame :=(dwCanId := 16#100, //was 16#201xRtrFrame := FALSE );xSend : BOOL;sSendInfo : STRING;oCanDiag : WagoAppCanLayer2.FbCanErrorInfo;xRst : BOOL;aSendData : ARRAY [1..8] OF BYTE;bSendLen : BYTE;TON_0 : TON;TON_1 : TON;END_VAR2) Program body:Code:oOpenInterface(xEnable := NOT xInterfaceIsOpen,I_Port := IoConfig_Globals.WAGO_CAN_LAYER2_DEVICE );sInterfaceInfo := oOpenInterface.oStatus.GetDescription();xInterfaceIsOpen S= oOpenInterface.xValid AND NOT oOpenInterface.xError;oReceive(xEnable := xInterfaceIsOpen,I_Port := IoConfig_Globals.WAGO_CAN_LAYER2_DEVICE,xRxTrigger := xRecv );sReceiveInfo := oReceive.oStatus.GetDescription();IF NOT xRecv THENIF oReceive.bRxNBytes > 0 THENoReceive.aRxBuffer;oReceive.aRxBuffer;oReceive.aRxBuffer;oReceive.aRxBuffer;oReceive.aRxBuffer;oReceive.aRxBuffer;oReceive.aRxBuffer;oReceive.aRxBuffer;END_IFxRecv := TRUE;END_IFaSendData := 224;aSendData := 13;aSendData := 14;aSendData := 15;aSendData := 222;aSendData := 13;aSendData := 14;aSendData := 15;bSendLen := 8;TON_0(IN:= NOT TON_1.Q, PT:= T#2S , Q=>xSend, ET=> );TON_1(IN:= TON_0.Q, PT:= T#2S , Q=>, ET=> );oSend(xEnable := xInterfaceIsOpen,I_Port := IoConfig_Globals.WAGO_CAN_LAYER2_DEVICE,aTxBuffer := aSendData,bTxNBytes := bSendLen,xTxTrigger := xSend );sSendInfo := oSend.oStatus.GetDescription();oCanDiag(xEnable := TRUE,I_Port := IoConfig_Globals.WAGO_CAN_LAYER2_DEVICE,xTriggerResetCounter := xRst,xValid=> ,xError=> ,oStatus=> ,wBusState=> ,wBusDiag=> ,uiRxOverflowsL2=> ,uiTxOverflowsL2=> ,uiRxOverflows=> ,uiMsgTimeouts=> ,uiBusOffs=> ,uiBusWarnings=> );Program first opens comunication on CAN 2 device and then periodically try send one CAN data frame. After starting program CAN 2 interface is properly open. The xSend variable is toggling with period 2s. When program sends data an "Tx overflow" error appears. When I am watching CAN_H line on DSub 9 socket i am not able to see proper CAN frames - see screenshot attached to this message.Could somebody help me determine what is wrong with this program.Best RegardsBest regards

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 17, 2024, 02:59:24 am
content: Probably you need to talk with WAGO support for this one.Are the CANbus termination resistance connected?
Comparing Motor Starting Methods: Star to DOL vs. Star to Delta - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kautuksahni
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 14, 2024, 04:48:23 am
content: Question:I need to understand the differences between the two motor-starting methods:Case 1: Start with a Star connection and then switch to DOL (Direct-On-Line) [I know this is not standard, but I am trying to understand this.]Case 2: Start with a Star connection and then switch to Delta.Also, include the pros and cons of each method. What are the real-world differences between Case 1 and Case 2? Which method is generally better and why?Note: Please ensure the answer focuses specifically on the differences between Star-DOL and Star-Delta starting methods, not the general differences between DOL and Star-Delta.

author: wofritz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2024, 06:58:05 am
content: If I understand it correctly, DOL is a circuit to start/stop a motor with push buttons via a contactor. It connects the motor directly to the line. It does not change the motor configuration during start up like the star/delta starter does. Seehttps://www.electrical4u.com/direct-online-starter-or-dol-starter/.

author: rogerggbr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2024, 10:12:13 am
content: When I was a lad, DOL = Delta, so your question makes little sense. However, the main difference is the starting current, DOL (or Delta) = 6 * FLC, Star-Delta = around 2.5 * FLC. These are round numbers, depends on motor size and load etc. FLC = Motor Full Load Current (e.g. from the rating plate on the side of the motor). In the real world people will use DOL up to a few (maybe several) KW, then switch to using S-D or these days soft starts, VSDs etc. I am assuming in all this you are looking at typical 3 phase LV systems (e.g. 400V).

author: mag_therm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2024, 11:08:05 am
content: Here is another tutorial covering DOL and other types of startershttps://www.electricaltechnology.org/2020/02/motor-starter.html
generic test setup to test plating for switches, or maybe contact rivets  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 01:13:22 am
content: So you can do some stuff pretty easy like nickel plating but there is lots of parameters to play with.The only common plating test is optical and some gauges for thickness.Is there some kind of generic test setup one could make to test the performance of some sort of contact that would give good information about the quality of the plating that you could run for a while?i.e. some kinda specs on a test like shape, spring force, etc. A generic laboratory relay setup with realistic conditions

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 02:17:23 pm
content: or a COTS off the shelf part that could disassemble, be replated and used for cycle data

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2024, 05:27:25 am
content: how about tungsten silver contact rivets? or copper tungstenhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/115645203954I think its possible to make a reliable switch with thatI imagine some badass next generation DIY wafer switches can be made with contact rivets.https://www.ebay.com/itm/125645722891What kind of analog precision equipment can be made with these robust custom switch options?It gets rid of alot of funny business that you might think you need to deal with making your own switch. I was going mad thinking about fatigue of bent metal contacts. You could even make your own (oversized) connectors with these things. I think they might end up being really strong. Its simple construction, no need for precision forming equipment or plating.I even see the possibility of making fork contacts by grinding these if their big enough for low current or low bounce relays. Not as good as gold but it might be something. And if you don't mind it large it might be possible to hermetically seal them pretty easily.
what is the biggest mechanical bullshit compromise/stiffing you have ever seen? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2024, 01:30:53 pm
content: I installed a new AC today, and I kinda started laughingits a 60lb steel box. They give you those polystyrene accordion folding panel bat wings extensions to help it fit in a window. Its preposterously weak. To me it feels like putting a set of tinkerbell holoween butterfly wings on a raging bull. I feel like they have NO SHAME in their design department.If the air conditioner weighed like 10lbs, OK, maybe. But to add that to a 60 pound steel box you can barely lift properly with 2 people, come on. No one improved on this for like 30 years. It lets bugs in, you need 500 feet of tape to seal it, and it will destroy your window sill from condensation.no shame I tell you. They don't even make it polystyrene rectangular tubing with end caps, instead, its polystyrene angle pieces, about 3/32 thick.and you know what happens when you actually put it into the window. its like the raptor pit in jurassic park.

author: Stray Electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2024, 10:21:33 pm
content: I guess that you haven't been paying attention. They've been making window air conditioners like that since the mid 1960s. They're absolute garbage and they leak more air than they condition. Throw that POS out and go buy a good mini split like those made by Mitsubishi. It will work 10 times better and on 1/10 of the electricity as any window shaker AC.We added a Mitsubishi mini split to our house (with a central AC) a couple of years ago and you literally can't tell any difference in the power bill but that end of the house is now comfortable whereas before you couldn't stay in that end of the house during a summer day.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2024, 10:24:40 pm
content: lol thats in the works, and I usually put styrofoam cuttings to improve it, but its just really funny how that is the default solution
Different motor control modes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Bill
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2024, 02:04:13 pm
content: Hello everyone,I would like to know the different types of communication between an electric motor and a Siemens 1200 PLC. Although this depends on the type of motor used, I am particularly interested in the different connection modes. Are there (specific interfaces or connectors, relay) between these two systems?Thanks

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2024, 11:23:00 am
content: PLC's only do low power signals. So the interfaces would be something like a contactor, Frequency inverter, BLDC / Servo motor controller etc. Communication protocols can be anything from a few logic signals (contactor on) or to direct to inputs of the controller (on/off, forward/reverse) to any of the common industrial buses. (Modbus, EtherCAT, 4-20mA, HART etc).

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2024, 08:28:33 pm
content: Often the PLC doesn't communicate with the motor directly. Generally the PLC would communicate with a motor drive either AC inverter or DC drive. The communication can be Profibus, Modbus RTU in the old days or today Profinet, Modbus TCP/IP, Ethernet IP, Ethercat, Powerlink etc... these use an ethernet connection.