Thermal camera teardown - EEV/E2V ARGUS 2 Firefighter Camera by Fraser - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2016, 02:15:02 pm
content: Some time ago I mentioned that I would be repairing a number of EEV/E2V ARGUS 2 thermal imaging cameras. Well that time has come and I have 21 to repair.The ARGUS 2 is a thermal camera designed to be used in very challenging and hostile conditions, by firefighters. As such its construction differs from everyday thermal cameras, but the basic operating principles apply. The camera uses a BST sensor array to capture the thermal scene. BST technology is very capable but it does require the used of a chopper wheel for sensor 'reset', and an iris to control the energy illuminating the sensor array.It should come as no surprise to readers that these cameras are pretty robust, high temperature tolerant, and of decent build quality. The electronics are protected inside a sealed plastic casing, that is in turn protected inside a thermal blanket lined outer shell. The outer shell is designed to be field replaceable if it becomes damaged.The camera comprises the following main elements1. Optical Block containing Germanium lens elements and motor driven IRIS.2. BST sensor array board with motorised synchronous chopper wheel.3. BST signal processor and control board.4. Camera controller board5. Analogue board for power supply and video monitor6. Cathode Ray Tube with associated magnifier.I have taken pictures at each stage of the disassembly in order to help others who may need to dismantle an ARGUS 2.At this point I am not going to provide detail of the various board chip-sets and functionality as that will take too much time to explain and there is some sensitivity surrounding certain boards that I will respect.The camera that is being dismantled fails to function when power is applied. A damaged Tantalum capacitor is obvious on the analogue PCB. I will delve deeper into the issues that this camera is suffering later.I should state that these are not the most pleasant of thermal cameras to work on as they usually smell of smoke and all unsealed areas are covered in black soot. You get very dirty when removing the casing. As with most/all thermal cameras, there are no schematics available to the public. a good understanding of the various stages within such a camera is therefore important if attempting to repair a unit. Some faults are simple power supply issues, others are more involved and challenging.Enjoy the picturesFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2016, 02:17:00 pm
content: Pictures Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2016, 02:19:17 pm
content: Pictures Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2016, 02:21:21 pm
content: Pictures Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2016, 02:23:38 pm
content: Pictures Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2016, 02:25:34 pm
content: Pictures Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2016, 02:28:22 pm
content: Pictures Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2016, 02:30:40 pm
content: Pictures Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2016, 02:32:42 pm
content: Pictures Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2016, 02:35:12 pm
content: Pictures Continued

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2016, 02:37:57 pm
content: That is all for the momentFraser

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2016, 11:46:40 pm
content: Lovely and clean inside at least. Hope the smell has worn off by now Fraser.This camera has the 'digital' version of the Raytheon core in it, and so a later set of EEV / Marconi PCB's. There was an earlier 'analogue' version of the Raytheon core which had an edge connector at the left end instead of the header shown in image 4506 and these are found in earlier Argus 2 and also the Cadillac cameras.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/thermal-camera-teardown-eeve2v-argus-2-firefighter-camera-by-fraser/?action=dlattach;attach=241596;image.The grey 80 way was used on both, but not identical pinout.Someone ......... clearly liked annotating their PCB's with test point names. See 4540 and 4584.Billwww.fire-tics.co.uk

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2016, 01:08:13 am
content: @Bill WI noted the excellent PCB annotationIt is great to see and helps me in my diagnostics. So many manufacturers fail to even annotate trimpots etc so you are left guessing what they do. My sincerest thanks to the designer of these PCB's for his thoughtfulness21 camera repairs and full testing is a lot of work for me, but I am actually looking forward to the task, and at least I have working units that can be parts donors for testing and references for measurements. I will set up a sort of testing and diagnostics production line and work through units with similar faults.Best WishesFraser

author: Bruno28
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2017, 11:42:42 pm
content: Quote from: Fraser on July 20, 2016, 01:08:13 amHello Fraser, I just got one of these off eBay. It looks to be excellent shape from the photos.Out of curiosity, why do you have 21 of theses? :ODo you fix and sell?Also what are the ages of these Argus 2 E2V? Why are they so bulky (just old tech?)? I don't know much about them as there isn't much information online. If you can share some that would be very welcome.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 12:36:16 pm
content: Bruno28,Congratulations on buying an EEV ARGUS 2There is a lot of information about the EEV (E2V) fire fighting cameras here :http://www.fire-tics.co.uk/1. The ARGUS 2 was released sometime around the year 2000. I do not know it's exact release date but the datasheet was dated 2000.2. A Raytheon 320 x 240 pixel BST temperature stabilised imaging sensor is used in the ARGUS 2. BST technology requires a rotating chopper wheel to create the required changes at the face of the sensor. The chopper wheel was often quite a large diameter of around 3" but EEV did manage to reduce the diameter in some specialist cameras of that era. The chopper wheel tends to dictate the width and height of the cameras front housing.3. Many Raytheon BST based cameras of the period were quite large due to the available technology, and required ergonomics of the application for which they were designed. The Raytheon Thermal Eye Palm 250D was quite compact and in camcorder format, but still a large camera by modern standards.4. Raytheon used to provide OEM's with a thermal camera 'kit' that included the BST sensor, chopper wheel and the image processing PCB. The dimensions of the lens, BST sensor, chopper wheel, chopper wheel motor and processing PCB dictated the minimum size of the camera. The Raytheon 300 series modules is about as compact as was possible for a BST based camera of the time that used the standard Raytheon kit of parts.Some thermal camera OEM's of the period just bolted a Raytheon 300 camera module into a housing and added a display plus minor housekeeping electronics. That was the beauty of those Raytheon Modules..... you provided power and they output thermal imagesFully automatic except for focus.5. You may have heard of the Cadillac De-Ville car Night Vision system that used a Thermal camera ? If not, I did a tear down of one on this forum. The camera is basically a Raytheon 300 module in a weather proof housing. Perfect for the automobile industry but very expensive at the time. I own two of the Cadillac cameras and, for the era in which they were used (Circa 2001), they were both advanced and capable technology.6. So why did EEV design the ARGUS 1 and 2 to be relatively large compared to the Raytheon 300 module ? You need to look at other fire fighting cameras of the period as well. The likes of the SCOTT, ISI and ISG offerings.... they were all large with simple controls and a hand holds, and for good reason.Fire fighting cameras are a very special thermal imaging tool. They require the following features :a) Easy to hold with a heavily gloved handb) Ease of use. Preferably power on button only and fully automatic after thatc) Produce a decent quality thermal image in changing ambient and thermal scene temperatures. Remember these camera have to cope with horrific ambient temperatures and to image burning material at up to around 1000Cd) Survive being dropped - a common hazard in fire fighting.e) Survive being dowsed in water and potentially submerged ! Goes with the territory !f) Have an easily fitted battery pack of reasonable operational duration.g) Be fire resistant !h) Have a display that is easily used by a fire fighter in varying conditions of visibility (smoke filled room) whilst a air supply and mask (BA set) is in use.To meet these requirements EEV used the following :a) Large easy to grip handle with large easy to press power button for the thumb. Side straps to aid hand holding.b) Raytheon BST based core fitted with an F1.0 fixed focus Germanium lens, mechanical IRIS for high temperature capability and custom EEV electronics for camera control, overlays and display etc.c) Multi layer environmental protection comprising rubber block shock mounted chassis in a hermetically sealed inner camera module that is surrounded by a custom shaped thermal blanket, and then fully encased in a fire resistant outer hard sacrificial shell casing. The outer casing was designed to be field replaceable by the owner if it ever became damaged. The camera could withstand being dropped and even being briefly immersed in water. The thermal barriers incorporated in the design kept the electronics cool enough for correct operation in an enviroment that was even too hot for humans to work in.d) The battery pack was located in the handle and had a quick load and unload mechanism. It resembles the magazine location in an automatic pistol and is relatively easy to change the battery even in total darkness. The OEM recommended fresh batteries on every entry into a situation so battery changes would normally be done at the fire appliance anyway.e) The display uses a CRT that is bright and of good image quality. The image is magnified with a large lens to enable the fire fighter to place the screen directly in front of the BA set air mask, and view the image with both eyes, even in dense smoke scenarios.So Fire Fighting cameras are not your 'average joe' when it comes to design and usage. It is little wonder that they were unusual shapes and sizes. They met the needs of people who wanted to be able to easily grab and use a tool to good effect without worrying about where to hold it or where the buttons are located. It is a specialist tool. The technology of the period also influenced the designs but I know the ARGUS 2 could have been miniaturised by EEV had there been the desire to do so. It followed on from the very successful ARGUS 1 that used a far bulkier electronics package and the customer liked the form factor. Why fix that which isn't broken ? The design certainly worked for EEV and its customers as sales were excellent.I own examples of the latest ARGUS cameras, namely the ARGUS 4 HR320 and Mi-Tic 320. These cameras still have to meet the requirements I detailed above but they are far smaller due to advances in technology and the desire by the modern fire fighter for a more compact, yet still very capable, personal thermal imaging camera. The ARGUS 4 and Mi-Tic are still very different to your average thermal camera though. Much thought has gone into their design as lives can be at stake if they fail to deliver.Why did I have 21 ARGUS 2 cameras ? I agreed to repair them for an eBay seller that I bought an ARGUS 2 from. The result .... a set of fully operational and carefully reconditioned ARGUS 2 cameras that worked as well as the day they left the factory. The seller is saving these reconditioned cameras as his best stock as they performed so well. Each had a repair and test report supplied with it. If you bought your ARGUS 2 for just under £400 on eBay UK you likely bought it from that seller but your camera may not be one of the units I reconditioned for him. I have a record of the serial numbers I worked on though.I gained a deep insight into the areas that need attention in these cameras after years of faithful service. They generally stand up to abuse very well. The areas that can need attention are:a) The Germanium objective lens can suffer corrosion due to prolonged exposure to water over the years. Do not try to polish the lens ! You will remove the AR coating.b) The power button contacts can become intermittent after many thousands of operations. The switch is not easy to disassemble so use of the spare contact pair is recommended.c) The mechanical IRIS can become 'sticky' due to actuator lubrication contamination of the two leaves. This causes a fault icon on the cameras display and loss of correct IRIS position for a specific thermal scene. Careful disassembly and cleaning of the IRIS assembly is the only solution. It is easy to test for an IRIS issue. An alert will either occur at power on, or during a test where the camera is aimed at a cool scene and then a very hot scene, such as a flame, very hot soldering iron, an oven or heating ring on a stove. If you hear the IRIS actuator driving the IRIS leaves all us well. If you get an IRIS fault alarm on the screen, the IRIS assembly and actuator needs a thorough clean.d) Degradation (splitting or shredding) of the translucent chopper wheel membrane due to age and temperature. This is not common but does require the replacement of the chopper wheel.e) Rechargeable battery failure. age/use related. Note that the Rechargeable battery pack contains a special battery gauge PCB and not just a battery.f) Battery door failure. Usually caused by abuse.There are other faults that I met but I think that is enough from me for now.Note that some spares may be available, if needed. See the Fire-Tics web site for details.As already stated, the schematics for the ARGUS cameras are not public domain. There is help available via this forum and its members however.If your camera has any 'issues' you will likely find help via this, or the Fire-Tics web site.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 02:48:40 pm
content: Pictures of some Raytheon BST based cameras.......

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 02:51:10 pm
content: The original ARGUS 1 camera that used a Pevicon tube as the image sensor.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 02:52:47 pm
content: The modern ARGUS 4 and Mi-Tic cameras

author: Bruno28
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2017, 06:48:16 am
content: Fraser! Wow, you are an encyclopaedia for Thermal Imaging Cameras.Thanks a a lot for sharing so much information. Now I know a lot more about this Argus 2.The one I bought the seller had for $380 pounds. Here is the link. (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/272758451715)Do you think you conditioned this one? I can supply serial once it arrives form UK to me in Australia.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2017, 09:12:43 am
content: No that one is from Cornwall and the ones I repaired and serviced are from a Northern seller. It looks in good physical condition though. Some fire fighting cameras saw very little service as they were owned by organisations that either fought very few, or no fires.Fraser

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2017, 10:05:47 pm
content: Another reason for the Argus 2 being big is that it used the same plastics as Argus 1. Somewhat easier to only do major changes to either the mechanics or the electrics each time. There's quite a bit of fresh air inside.Argus 1 - new box but electronics heavily derived from later P4428 / EEV helmet camera.Argus 2 - new electronics in slightly modified Argus 1 case.Argus 3 - new case using Raytheon BST system evolved from Argus 2. Could also take 2 other detector systems.Argus 4 - actually all-new as delivered mainly due to RoHS coming in. Otherwise you might assume that a ULIS sensor Argus 3 would have appeared first.Bill

author: Bruno28
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2017, 12:09:45 am
content: Hello Fraser.Today I was trying the Argus 2 and when I pointed at a window, it had some grinding sounds and then a triangle with an exclamation point showed up.I restarted and it didn't show anymore. But every time I point to hot subject I hear grinding sound.From what you've described before it's the IRIS?Al I have to do is open it up and clean it up wherw that gear is located? Do I leave it clean and dry or apply something like a Teflon grease?https://youtu.be/sZycHFELpSg

author: Bruno28
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2017, 12:58:14 am
content: Is it just this that needs cleaning? Where the red arrow is pointed.I want to move the least amount of things possible. So would only open the plastic case and clean that off with a Q tip.Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

author: Bruno28
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2017, 02:05:59 am
content: I opened it up and seems to be clean but if I try to move the pinion it's stuck. No movement at all.Update. I slowly tried to spin the pinion and then it came loose. Now the leaf shutter moves freely.Probably lack of use? No grease or lubricant on it at all.Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

author: Bruno28
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2017, 03:39:29 am
content: Here are some photos of the internal if anyone is curious.Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2017, 11:14:29 am
content: Bruno28,Yes you have the classic sticky Iris symptoms. The 'grinding' noise is the sound of the Iris drive signal emitted by the motor as it strains to move the Iris leaves. The drive signal is current controlled and current monitored. If the Iris does not move and overcurrent occurs, the warning triangle appears.The good news is that it is relatively simple to rectify this situation.1. Remove the two socket head screws that secure the objective lens holder to the lens chassis.2. Carefully pull the objective lens away from the lens chassis3. Note the layout of the Iris parts and which Iris leaf is in front, and which is behind.4, the Iris leaf pivot is sometimes a sliding fit into its hole. It does not need to be removed.5. Gently lift the two Iris leaves off of the Iris pivot pin and lay them down on clean paper.6. Inspect the Aluminium surfaces around the Iris slot for any corrosion or debris. Remove any that is found.7. Using a Q-tip soaked in IPA, clean the surfaces of the Iris leaves to ensure no contaminants remain. Dry the leaves carefully with a soft cloth, ensuring no cloth threads remain in the 'sawtooth' sections against which the motor gear acts.8. Using a Q-tip soaked in IPA, clean all surfaces of the Aluminium lens chassis that have contact with the Iris leaves.9. Carefully clean the Iris motor brass gear with IPA to remove any contaminants.10. Reassemble the Iris leaves onto the Iris pivot, taking note of the centre mark indicator cut into the bottom of the front leaf. The Iris leaves operate symmetrically so need to be assembled as such. Assemble them so that they overlap the sides of the Aluminium chassis equally at the sides, whilst the front leaf centre point marker is centralised and in line with the Iris motor shaft.This may sound more complex than it is. Have a play with how the Iris works and you will see what is required for correct alignment. I use my fingers to check the over hang of the Iris leaves either side of the Aluminium chassis.11. Once the Iris leaves are correctly aligned, refit the objective lens holder and secure it with the two socket head screws. The objective lens holder needs to be aligned so that it is laterally centralised.The Iris service is now complete.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2017, 11:28:43 am
content: Whilst the camera is open, remove the Raytheon controller PCB to reveal the EEV camera controller that sits below. Examine the area adjacent to the EEV controller board large connector where it is connected ted to the BST sensor board. Towards the left of the connector on the EEV controller board there is a small capacitor that can burn-up. You will see the blackened capacitor if it has failed.It is also a good idea to remove the EEV controller and inspect the yellow Tantalum capacitors on the reverse side of the board, adjacent to where the viewfinder shell sits. The viewfinder shell can impact one of the capacitors if the camera is dropped, shearing its connections. I have even found that capacitor jammed in the Iris mechanism after it was completely sheared off of the board !Sorry I am not providing pictures..... they are on my computer that is presently in pieces !Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2017, 12:56:42 pm
content: Looking back through the images in this thread I have already highlighted the issue with C19 getting sheared away from the PCB. In pictures of the EEC controller board, the small brown MLC SMD capacitor that can fail is also pictured. It is next to a yellow Tantalum capacitor, adjacent to the board connector. Sadly no component numbers are present. If it has failed, I can look up the value of the capacitor later.Fraser

author: Bruno28
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2017, 01:04:14 pm
content: Thanks Fraser for the detailed instructions. After I manages to move the pinion it worked smoothly.I wouldn't not want to fiddle any or remove any pcb boards, just in case I damage something and then end up with a camera that doesn't work. It now seems to be working. But I didn't get the iris to operate. Maybe it need a a lot more heat than the window for it to start working? I need to try it wit open flame to see If it works then.Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2017, 02:20:13 pm
content: A soldering iron is a good test source for the Iris, just move it into the field of view 30cm from the lens.No worries on removing the PCB's but use a torch to look for the problems. The unit is VERY rugged and hard to break even when removing boards. You do need the special security screw driver bit though.If you do not dismantle the Iris and clean it, the sticking problem will re-occur very soon. The pinion sometimes gets stuck on some debris floating inside the camera but it still needs a clean. I found red screw head lock paint in one cameras Iris pinion gear and jammed the Iris. This is very rare though. Most cameras are suffering from lubrication leaching out of the motor and onto the Iris leaves over time. Some have corrosion issues, but they are few thanks to the excellent module sealing. Never ever apply any lubrication to the pinion gear or Iris leaves ! They are designed to operate dry.Fraser

author: Bruno28
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2017, 10:39:42 pm
content: Thanks. I'll try the soldering iron trick.Is there anything I should visually see? A shift in the cold/hot parts looking darker?Because i have already put it all together, So won't be able to see the motor working.Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2017, 11:06:47 pm
content: You will hear the Iris motor and see correct exposure of the hot object. There should be no re-occurance of the warning triangle.Fraser

author: Bruno28
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2017, 10:27:13 am
content: I tested with a open flame and it shows signs of working well.https://youtu.be/8KceTBSAwHgSent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2017, 10:56:47 am
content: Good newsThe ARGUS2 tends to consume Alkaline cells quite quickly. You can use Ni-Mh cells in the AA battery pack but the battery meter will not read correctly. The camera will operate normally in all other ways however.Fraser

author: Bruno28
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2017, 11:00:02 am
content: Quote from: Fraser on July 27, 2017, 10:56:47 amI'm using Sanyo eneloop. Which are rechargeable. But the batteries were fully charged. And in about 5-10 mins it had gone down to what you see in the video. It suck the life out of them. Not very efficient.But at least the camera is working well now. And in that great condition it looks like a kit for collectors.Thanks for your help. Also see a thread I started in the thermal section. When I saw this camera I thought of you and how you would like one or probably already have one of those hahahSent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2017, 11:34:59 am
content: The ARGUS2 does have quite a high current draw. It uses a thermoelectric temperature stabiliser for the sensor. The stabiliser is Peltier based so draws quite a lot of current when active. Initial switch on current is high as a result. The camera also has to power the chopper wheel motor and a current hungry cathode ray tube monitor. IIRC this all adds up to a nominal current draw of around 350mA after initial temperature stabilisation.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2017, 12:12:36 pm
content: I just looked at the ARGUS2 specs.She originally came with a 1600mAh Rechargeable battery. This was stated as having an operational duration of 2 hours. The power consumption of the camera is stated as nominally 5W. It was apparently one of, if not 'the' lowest power consumption cameras of its time.Note what I said about using Rechargeable cells in the Alkaline battery pholder. The battery meter becomes pretty meaningless and should be ignored as it's calibration is set for an Alkaline cell discharge curve, not that of Ni-Cad or Ni-Mh. You should get 2 hours run time with a cell if at least 1600mAh capacity.Also remember, this camera can image temperatures far higher than most standard 'general use' thermal camerassadly the BST technology does not lend itself to temperature measurement though. Temperature measurement would be either by using a Black Body termperature reference source in the FOV or by using an IR thermometer.Fraser

author: Bruno28
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2017, 12:19:36 pm
content: Ok. So it's misreading. I'll see how long it lasts. It's not a camera I'll use much. But something I do like is the capability of detecting very little heat and also very smooth frame rate. Much higher fps than the thermapp.Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2017, 12:40:55 pm
content: If you connect the ARGUS 2 to a decent sized external monitor you will see a far more detailed image than that produced by the internal CRT monitor. The internal monitor seems to produce a soft edged image even when correctly focussed.The down side is that you may notice the odd dead pixel that has occurred over the years since manufacture. Not a fault though so best to just ignore them ! There may be no dead pixels visible if your sensor has been treated kindly.Remember that the video output standard is set in hardware to either PAL or NTSC, depending upon what was ordered. Some older monitors need the right standard input, whilst others auto switch between standards. My 19" CCTV LCD monitors are fully automatic in this respect and produce a lovely image from the ARGUS cameras. I have also used cheap USB video frame grabber / DVR dongles with these cameras. I provided test images with all of the ARGUS 2's that I repaired using this method as it is far better than taking photographs of the magnified internal monitor. The ARGUS2 uses a BST sensor that was one of the last in a line of development, it was very capable and only went out of use when development funding ceased after the military chose Microbolometers as their preferred 'silent' technology.You can also easily attach a video sender transmitter to the ARGUS2 for wireless video linking. Not something that can be done with many modern thermal cameras that do not include wireless capabilities or a composite video socket ! I like having the old fashioned composite video capability as it is so easy to use and very versatile. No computer neededFinally, do not forget, it is weatherproof so you can use it outside for wildlife observation without fear of rain damageFraser

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2017, 10:15:23 pm
content: One minor point to add to Fraser's excellent commentaryArgus 2 was only available as 525 line/30Hz/NTSC. It was never available with 625/25Hz/PAL even if the display PCB has some legend notes on how to make it run in PAL.Only the later Raytheon BST cores could do 625/25Hz/PAL, and so later build Argus3 could be switched back and forth.Bill

author: Grayo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 18, 2017, 05:52:38 pm
content: Hi Fraser,I'm sorry to trouble you but am hoping you can give me some advice. I run a search and rescue group for lost dogs here in the UK. What thermal imagine camera would you recommend for for doing this. Sometime dogs are buried deep in thick undergrowth so would need something that can penetrate situations like this. Thanks in advanced for any help you can give.Graham

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2017, 06:23:44 pm
content: Hi,I would recommend one of the FLIR Scout II or III thermal scopes that are designed for SAR and observation use. Sadly they are not the cheapest option though. You for not want too wide a field of view as this decreases detection distance. 25 degrees or so for such use is the maximum really.The Scout II and III contain a high quality TAU 2 core.There are cheaper Chinese copies of the Scout series but I cannot comment on their performance. Some may be good whilst others apalling. Guide make a similar thermal scope. If you can test it before buying it may be worth a look.On the used market you will find FLIR thermal scopes from the MS, PS and HS families. All are suitable for your needs, even if the earlier models that use the still excellent TAU 1 module.You could consider the Keysight U5855A that is available from the Keysight factory shop but that is a gun format and the microbolometer is 160 x 120 pixels. It would work though. Just aye not as well as the Scout series. The U5855A has its own thread on this forum. Cost is $620 +VAT delivered to the UK.I can comment further if required.Hope this helpsFraser

author: Grayo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 18, 2017, 10:33:08 pm
content: Many thanks for your reply Fraser, that's very helpful. Yes I've looked into the Flir Scout, but like you say it comes at a hefty cost. Thanks for the advice it's much appreciated.RegardsGraham

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2017, 11:00:17 pm
content: Do take a close look at the Keysight U5855A. For the money it is hard to beat and the lens is 28 degrees horizontal field of view, so it is close to what I recommended.The FLIR E4 is another option with the ability to upgrade it to 320 x 240 pixels. It isn't exactly cheap though and the latest 2017 model was presenting problems to the upgrade path. If you buy a used one that is pre 2017, you can still upgrade it. The field of view is a little large at 45 degrees though. That is almost double the FOV of the U5855A. In standard 'as bought' 80 x 60 pixel spec, the E4 is a poor choice due to the low resolution.Fraser

author: Grayo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 19, 2017, 11:06:31 am
content: Ok thank you again for your very helpful information Fraser, I will have a look at the options you suggest. As you can tell I have no idea at all regarding thermal imagine cameras. I also own a dji inspire 1 drone, and would love to have the flir camera for that but the price is way out of my budget sadly.Best regardsGraham

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2017, 11:33:14 am
content: I had hopes of using a 160 x 120 pixel resolution Lepton 3 core in a custom interface PCB for drone use. Sadly the company that makes the interface board appear unable to build a reliable version for the Lepton 3. They have one for the Lepton 2 but the 80 x 60 resolution combined with wide field of view is limiting. I salvage LEPTON 3 cores from faulty FLIR ONE Generation 2 cameras. They cost me around £70 on eBay and I have yet to receive one with a faulty Lepton core.I will add a link to the Lepton 2 interface in a minute. It provides composite video out so is easy to connect to a video transmitter. The company did show a working Lepton 3 interface a while ago but no sign of it now and they did not even respond to my email enquiryFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2017, 11:36:13 am
content: The Lepton board comes from Flytron......http://www.flytron.com/thermal-cameras/303-dronethermal-micro-uav-thermal-camera.htmlIf you want to discuss such further, raise a post on the topic and the whole EEVBlog thermal imaging membership should see it. Such is rather out of place in this thread.Fraser

author: Grayo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 19, 2017, 02:26:52 pm
content: Ok thanks Fraser, I will do. Thank you.

author: Bratster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2017, 07:17:48 pm
content: Hello Fraser,Do you have detailed photos of any very early gen 1 Argus cameras?I bought one off eBay a few years ago that was DOA and I was hoping that I would be able to repair it quite easily.Unfortunately the prior owner had to go him self and screwed with every. single. trimmer. on the thing. I think the only problem with it was a blown fuse in the power supply board that was in there. I fixed that and it does power up now.However since all the trimmers got tweaked it does not show an image.I have played around with adjusting different trimmers at different times and managed to finally see a faint image of a soldering iron but that is it so far. It has been sitting in a box the last couple years.I'm hoping if you had a detailed shot of both of the circuit boards in it that would at least give me a starting point to set all the Trimmers to.Then I can then go by one by one tweaking them to get the best image.Thanks for any help you can give.Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2017, 08:30:31 pm
content: I'll see what I can do for you. I have several ARGUS 1's around but disassembly is a PITA as there are so many screws etc.Please post some photos of your PCB's and the PCB identity numbers.Fraser

author: Bratster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2017, 08:32:35 pm
content: Quote from: Fraser on August 19, 2017, 08:30:31 pmWill do.May take a couple days as I need to go and find the box that it is in.#toomuchelectronicsstuffSent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

author: Bratster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2017, 08:50:52 pm
content: Found it!Model p4438. Argus eev.Attached are photos of both boards and the displayed image from the internal crt and the video out.Psu unit takes in 12v from aa Batts and is outputting 8.75v.Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2017, 11:53:39 pm
content: Hi Bratster,This is the 'first' PCB iteration and setup is very close to the P4428 documented here:http://www.fire-tics.co.uk/4428_setup.htmI haven't got round to doing one for these yet.A lot of the settings are interactive / interdependent so you have to get each of these right before moving on to the next:Power supply - which you have OK at 8.75V, nominally 8.70V on camera.TimingsTube voltagesTube runningVideo settingsCRT settingsIris / battery settingsThere's enough life in it that I am sure it will get going fine. Perhaps start another thread for this so it is easier to find for others.Just keep your fingers away from that 29th pin on the bottom hybrid module - that's 1kVregardsBill

author: Bratster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2017, 04:58:33 pm
content: Thanks for all the info!I will start a new thread when I have some time to work on this camera.Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

author: mrclunk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 09, 2018, 09:28:45 pm
content: Hi Guys,thanks for all the amazing info here.I just picked up an Argus 2 off ebay v.cheap.The trigger switch was broken but apart from that it appears to work well!It came with a couple of NI-MH batteries/charger but they're both kaput. Hooked up a 12v wall wart for power at the mo.I have been an total idiot and "cleaned" the lens before reading this thread...Hence wiped off some AR coating...There's a faint halo around the image, from my cotton bud wiping, but still works.My plan it to use this for electronic fault finding, pcb inspection. I'm a sound guy so most the stuff i fix is chunky through hole gear.How do i change the focus for say 20-30cm approx.? Do i need to buy a different lens or could i just move it? Maybe make an attachment that fits on front, would be cool to keep the current focus for spotting air/sound leaks in studios.thanks, I have zero clue about optics!

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2018, 10:45:58 am
content: Well done !The lens can be refocussed, but only from inside. You got most of the way in fixing the battery connection plate, then follow the disassembly that Fraser showed at the beginning of the thread removing the left side of the camera, keeping the body in the right (=BNC out) side.That then gets you to here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/thermal-camera-teardown-eeve2v-argus-2-firefighter-camera-by-fraser/?action=dlattach;attach=241579Then undo the little screw with the red varnish and focus as required. I have not currently got one open to see how far you can get, but I believe it will probably be enough. This moves the inner two lens elements but the outer one stays fixed and sealed.For more extreme close up you would need to add spacers and then you are into reboxing the camera or cutting off the front. At that point you might be better looking at additional lenses. I hope to be able to offer cores from these cameras in the future as 'dev kits' once I have sorted out instructions for use. So far I have only done that for the AS2000 core - see threads here or the article onwww.fire-tics.co.ukregardsBill

author: mrclunk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 10, 2018, 11:03:39 am
content: Ahh, amazing!Thankyou so much.I've already taken a peek inside there just out of curiosity. I'll have a play with the focus adjustment.Maybe a little RC servo for focus 'mode' adjustment...With the Ni-Mh battery packs, can i just replace the cells in them? I think i read somewhere the are 8 AA sized cells.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2018, 11:34:07 am
content: Well done in getting an ARGUS 2 camera that works for a good price. Having looked at eBay recent sales it looks like it came from the seller I helpedIf you share the serial number with me I can advise whether it is one that I have serviced in the past. The power switch had failed on few of the 21 cameras that I worked on. It is possible to use the unused (NC) contacts as a quick fix as the power switch can be a challenge to find at a wallet friendly price.The Ni-Mh cells may be changed in the battery pack but getting into the battery casing is a challenge ! There is a PCB down one side of the battery pack so be careful if cutting into the plastic case.Another forum member was going to fit an RC servo to the ARGUS focus lock screw point but I do not know if he has done any experimentation yet.The large light circle effect on the displayed image is something I have seen on other ARGUS 2 cameras but does not normally effect use and I do not think it is related to AR coating loss so you can relax on that frontIt is normal to see a sort of halo around warm targets in an image and this is just a characteristic of a BST sensor array fitted with a semi opaque chopper wheel. With regard to AR coating peeling and loss, this can effect ALL of the lenses in the lens block and not just the exposed objective. It is worth inspecting the lens elements but they cannot be repaired except by fitting new parts. These cameras appear to produce a decent picture, even when the objective lens looks reall nasty and pitted ! Remember, these BST cameras do not provide temperature measurement capability so errors introduced by loss of, or damage to, the AR coating is a little less of an issueFraser

author: mrclunk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 10, 2018, 11:51:44 am
content: Will see if i can repair the switch.I've loads of those EAO switches, without the waterproof actuator. Common in studio gear. Will try and transplant the innards!I'll be gentle cutting open the battery pack!Will send you the serial later but the tamper seals were all in tacked. Seller said it had been sat in his garage for years broken. Took a £50 puntthanks

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2018, 12:01:44 pm
content: Brilliant dealI used to chase such bargains but have now stopped. I did tell people that there are some amazing deals to be had on used thermal camerasFire fighting cameras can often be found cheaply and in decent numbers because the various Fire Service regions go through equipment refreshes that can involve buying newer thermal cameras. Others fail in service and considered BER, so disposed of at auctions etc.Yours is not one that I serviced then as I did not refit the security seals.An area you may wish to pay attention to is the lens IRIS. If the camera shows a warning triangle when viewing a cold scene followed by a very hot scene it is well worth the effort to dismantle the lens block and clean the two IRIS leaves with IPA. No lubrication should be applied to those IRIS leaves.On disassembling the power switch. I looked into that and it is definitely possible to change out the whole rear contact module in its entirety. Replacing just the contacts within is not a good fix as only one side of the contact surfaces get renewed. To remove the contact module you need to desolder the wires from the switch module and untwist the two long contacts that,IIRC, power be LED, so that they are flat enough to allow the contact module to slide over then. It takes time and care but can be worth the effort. The replacement contact module is slipped over the long pins and they are then twisted 90 degrees before reconnecting the wires.Fraser

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2018, 01:00:21 am
content: For the battery you could be better off either using the 'AA' carrier (red) that hopefully came with it or making up a rechargeable pack and fitting semi-permanently. As Fraser says the rechargeable packs (blue=NiCd or green=NiMH) were solvent welded so are a total nightmare to get apart, and inevitably damaged making reassembly difficult as well. All done to keep water out.The best you can do is to cut 18mm back from the contacts end. That is just clear of the contacts block so the cell pack will come away with the contacts leaving an empty sleeve.regardsBill

author: mrclunk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 13, 2018, 10:40:44 am
content: Thanks chaps.I changed the focus over the weekend, adjusted it for about 20cm, could of gone closer. Lots of adjustment there.Did't mess with the iris leaves, looked to be moving freely.The spinning disc thing has slightly warped and is delaminating a bit on one edge. Still working for now tho, do spares exist for those? On should i dab some glue to stop the rot?I'm going to stick a DC socket on the side for power for time being.Totally destroyed the switch by the way...

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2018, 12:53:17 pm
content: If it is just a bit at the edge a run of glue is OK, but try to keep it balanced of you can. Also avoid glue in the bit that is actively swept, it might not be IR transparent.I have spares of the wheels (and pretty much everything else), although nowhere near sorting out what is really available as a spare versus what I'd use to fix cameras or do 'sensor kits'.The only other 'known' spares are lenses and battery doors.regardsBill

author: cejoba
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2022, 05:33:41 pm
content: Quote from: Fraser on July 20, 2016, 01:08:13 amHi, what's the difference among different case colors?Most of them are black, some are yellow, and one in your photo is even hybrid color...

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2022, 06:02:28 pm
content: Yellow is normally an Argus 1 (Pevicon Tube)Black is normally an Argus 2 (BST FPA)The outer protective shell is sacrificial and designed to be user replaceable if it gets damaged. As such the colour of the case can end up changed, or at least a hybrid of yellow and black if an incorrect colour new shell is fitted.The inner waterproof casing that surrounds the electronics package is always black in colour.Model identification beyond outer case/handle colour.The Argus 1 has a round image in the viewfinder. The Argus 2 has a rectangular image that fills the CRT of the viewfinder. The cameras model number is also shown in the viewfinder aperture.Fraser

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2022, 07:56:11 pm
content: There are a number of Argus1 misdescribed on eBay as Argus2. The sellers do not change the listings when advised, and carefully avoid showing serial numbers or screen images. 'I do not know how to turn it on' is not an excuse if you have a battery cartridge and only one button, plus the user manuals online.Another cause for confusion is that Argus1 and Argus2 'luggage' cases are interchangeable so can often get swapped. Even the UK MOD fall for that one, I have had several 'Argus2' to repair that were yellow with round pictures......The other defining point would be the serial number label.Argus1 = P4438Argus2 = P4455RYes there are a very few other oddities, but I think between myself and Fraser we own them all !There was an 'Argus1' in yellow that actually had a Raytheon 2000AS in it and far more in common with an Argus2There were also a few of the Argus2 P4455G that had the ex-Plessey / GMEO 256x128 PZT detector in themBill

author: cejoba
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2022, 02:01:35 pm
content: Quote from: Bill W on September 09, 2022, 07:56:11 pmYes that's exactly where my confusion came from.Quote from: Bill W on September 09, 2022, 07:56:11 pmWhy are such exist? prototypes?

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2022, 07:49:43 pm
content: The 'ASi Argus1' was a prototype.As BST was export controlled and we (EEV/Marconi) has a lot of customers who would be caught by that we decided to try out making an export-free camera using the 2000AS. At the time(NOT NOW)ASi was not controlled.In the end many customers were OK going through export, and the rest were happy enough with cheap tube based Argus1.It was not a hard cut over to Argus2.Bill

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2022, 08:17:01 pm
content: The P4455G was more complicated.....As EEV also made the Pevicon tubes, thermal cameras were highly profitable (even the ones ISG sold with EEV tubes in them !). So there was a high degree of company level reluctance to swap to solid state in the first place where the bought in core was well over half the end selling price.We started out desiging Argus2 as a Raytheon BST based camera, and nearly finished. However corporate jugglings within GEC resulted in EEV being much closer to GEC Avionics Basildon (now BAE via Finmeccania etc) and so we were instructed to use their sensors and electronics to keep revenue in house. It was not cheap but I think there was a deal to match the Raytheon prices forced on Basildon (electronics, lenses) and the sensor side (Northampton / Southampton).This was a 256x128 pixel successor to the Plessey 100x100 PZT chopped sensor in Cairns Iris helmet camera and was being built into a military product.Overall this took a good year or so through 1998 with main customers (MSA Germany and USA) getting impatient for solid state cameras.We got as far as 10-20 early build sales demo cameras (P4455G) and ready to start building 100 a month from Jan 1999.It turned out that the sensor production capacity never existed, the project manager for that disappeared over Christmas and the military contract took priority for the 20 or so a month they really could make. We rapidly switched back to using the BST for Argus2 (P4455R).Attached some images grabbed from analogue videoBill

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2022, 09:34:12 pm
content: I really should open my GEC Pyro 2000 camera that uses the Plessey 100x 100 PZT FPA that has Micro-scan resolution enhancement.That was an interesting development in that the micro-scan could also have been employed on higher resolution Raytheon BST FPA’s to increase their resolution. Raytheon does not appear to have thought that necessary however.Fraser

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2022, 11:30:17 am
content: A couple of images of the internals. This is the 'normal' rather than microscan chopper wheel.The side PCB had most of the parts on the inner face here.The lens is an interesting take on designs. As the Basildon works only had capability for diamond turning and flats, but no old-school spherical polishing it was solely flat and aspheric faces !As usual with Marconi designs, the housing was all milled from solid !Bill

author: cejoba
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2022, 11:38:24 am
content: Thank you people!I've never heard a PZT sensor before, also never seen a product using that. The picture looks good enough I think.What is micro-scan?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2022, 12:01:57 pm
content: Micro-scan was an opto-mechanical resolution enhancement system. It was built into the ‘chopper wheel’ and comprised a number of Germanium prisms that shifted the image at the FPA by 1 pixel . It was effectively an optical image shifting system.I have a picture of the system somewhere.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2022, 01:45:27 pm
content: I just looked in my data archive for the GEC Pyro 2000 camera.I attach PDF's detailing the PZT 100 x 100 pixel FPA and microscan chopper system.

author: cejoba
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2022, 02:57:13 pm
content: Thank you a lot! It's very interesting to read the documents.So microscan can also be applied to other sensors like VOx/ASi? Why I don't see people use it? The result seems really good.I was about to ask about specs for PZT sensors, and you already gave.The 100x100 sensor is 100um pixel pitch and 500mk NETD... Old and interesting. I wonder what about the 256x128 version?

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2022, 04:56:10 pm
content: I have a document quoting the 100x100 as NeTD 200mK, camera visual detection (MDTD) of 100mKElectronic Engineering - Jan 1992 page 9Equally the internal specification document is <500mK (at f/1) and suggests using an f/0.7 lensFor the 256x128 'sensitivity' is quoted as 100 - 150mK, and mean NeTD as 110mK (f/1 lens)It was 56um pixelsInteresting historical paper....https://www.degruyter.com/document/doi/10.2478/s11772-012-0037-7/pdfSales sheet attached

author: cejoba
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2022, 09:17:42 pm
content: Quote from: Bill W on September 12, 2022, 04:56:10 pmThank you! The historical paper is really interesting to read!