Garden solar LED string - some progress but stuck on controller box, pls advise? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Jupitus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2025, 12:50:16 am
content: Hi folks! In an effort to gain favour with my lovely lady, I have her garden LED solar light string and controller at my place right now. This is a 'Lumeniere' product bought from John Lewis and no longer available, and they are no longer working so I could get brownie points in the bank if I can fix them.I am enthusiastic about electronics but by no means good at this, so perhaps I'll let you wise folks hear the story and hopefully offer advice?The controller leaked water badly, which I assume is the root cause. The controller has a usb c charging port and solar panel. There are 2 buttons... 1 for the 'mode' (flashing etc) and one for the simple on/off.Steps taken:I have opened the controller box, let it dry and given a liberal spraying of electronics contact cleaner. I have replaced the rechargeable cell like for like, and then checked the charging port works by using a usb diagnostic (draws about 0.6A on charge).I connected the lights in their port and then bypassed the power on/off switch with a wire, and the lights worked, so they are fine. I was also able to change the lights mode with the second switch. The power switch simply does not work, I think.I gave the switch itself a really good spray of cleaner, and plenty of rust came out, so I figure that's the main issue... so I figure I need a replacement switch but I am a bit confused. The switch has a spring in it, so I think it is a momentary switch, and yet if I bypass it the lights just stay on and go off when I remove my wire which in my mind indicates a switch which latches? I don't see how it can do... gonna upload some pictures... it's late now as I am finishing this post so please do reply with any comments suggestions or questions about the device . Any help is very much appreciated !

author: Jupitus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2025, 12:51:21 am
content: + pictures

author: Jupitus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2025, 12:52:30 am
content: + 1 last picture

author: Jupitus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2025, 02:25:20 am
content: Added info - I figure that I should be able to replace the switch, but I can't find one the same so far. If you look at the board photo the target is the centre where the button needs to reach the top cover, but the +ve and -ve connections are offset slightly. I think if I can find a switch with a suitable height to reach the front cover the I could run trace wires to the connectors on the board and glue it in place... what do you think?

author: vidarr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2025, 02:47:49 am
content: I don't want to be a bummer, but go get a nice little box and get a new board and stick it in the new box. Tell her you solved the problem and hook it up for her.Trust me.

author: Jupitus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2025, 03:00:03 am
content: Well yes, I don't disagree at all, but a. I'd love to actually fix it myself and b. I looked at that contingency and so far couldn't find anything suitable

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2025, 03:01:07 am
content: If you have a switch which will do the job -- e.g. a latching push button switch, slide switch or throw switch -- I would consider mounting it outside of the enclosure. Run wires from the pcb through the hole meant for the original power button to the new switch.Maybe put the new switch in a small plastic enclosure that is glued to the original enclosure. Maybe 3D print something. What does the enclosure look like?It's going to cost a fair bit of money of you have to buy something from Amazon or an electronics distributor. So I would look at using a switch you already have or perhaps you can salvage one from another device (like an old clock radio). All you need is a latching switch.

author: Jupitus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2025, 03:27:05 am
content: Thanks, but that is what I need help with - it doesn't seem to be a latching switch as is is on a spring and the top part of the push mechanism just pushes against the top cover where there is a circle to push on, so it's all enclosed... perhaps I should add a couple of pics of that too...

author: Jupitus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2025, 02:29:04 pm
content: Doing a bit more research and I think the controller may utilise a 'soft latch circuit' ?https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/506226/keep-circuit-on-after-momentary-triggerThis would make sense given the switch is a sprung push button one, but I am still confused that when I bypassed the switch (shorted across it) the lights would only stay one while I held the contact...

author: Peabody
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2025, 03:07:12 pm
content: Are there two wires going from the switch to the circuit board? Are they connected to S+ and S-? If not, where on the board are they connected?Edit: Ok it appears the power switch is mounted on the board. Is it visible in the lower right of your first picture?Also, when you are shorting across the switch and the light turns on, is this test being done in full sun, or at night?

author: Jupitus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2025, 05:49:12 pm
content: I am adding a couple of pictures, 1 to show the switch in situ, and the other so show to 2 solder points it was connected to... my testing has all been ignoring the solar element for now, although I realise I'll have to get to that point and make it charges via solar!

author: Jupitus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2025, 05:49:54 pm
content: It only has 2 connections which I shorted, pls see images in previous post, thanks!

author: Peabody
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2025, 07:08:12 pm
content: It looks like the switch connects the B+ input to the rest of the circuit through an inductor. So my guess would be that it's a push-on/push-off latching switch.The reason I asked about sunlight is that most of these devices only power up when it's dark, even when the switch is turned on. They are supposed to charge during the daytime, and turn on the light at night. There might be a light sensor of some kind, or it may just turn on when no current is detected from the solar panel. So you might try covering the panel with aluminum foil to make it completely dark, and see if it will light up when the switch bypass is installed, but it's running on battery only.

author: Jupitus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2025, 09:11:11 pm
content: UPDATE TIME!Good news! And Bad news!!Good - I managed to solder on a new momentary switch and reassemble, and the lights work in all their different modes just as 'on''flashing' 'dimming' and so on... great!Bad - The old switch MUST have been a tiny rotating latching switch as they only work when I hold the new switch down... bugger!Anyone know of these small (12mm x 12mm x 12mm) latching push button switches? Cheers!

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2025, 09:43:12 pm
content: You could use a slide switch - you can get 80 of them Amazon for $6.Salvage a switch from some other electronics.Make one from a ballpoint pen:https://youtu.be/dmdocA65WW8