hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
My fully automated DC Power Efficiency Measurement Software - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Nx-1997
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2021, 08:33:54 pm
content: I made a software that measures dc power efficiency for various circuits like voltage regulators. It should support most power supplies with a serial port that allow you to set voltage, current and measure voltage and current on their output. You will also need a dc electronic load or a 2/4 quadrant power supply (must have programmable current sink capability) with a serial port that can set sink current values, measure voltage and current on its output. The concept is simple, the power supply measures voltage and current on the input side of the circuit while the dc load measures voltage and current on the output side.GitHub Page:https://github.com/Niravk1997/DC-Power-Efficiency-Measurement-SoftwareDownload Link:https://github.com/Niravk1997/DC-Power-Efficiency-Measurement-Software/releasesMessy User Manual:https://github.com/Niravk1997/DC-Power-Efficiency-Measurement-Software/blob/main/User%20Manual.pdfThe software sets the input voltage on the power supply and sink current on the dc load. Then measures voltage and current on the input and output side of your circuit. Using these measurements it calculates power efficiency and some other stuff. The power supply must operate in constant voltage mode while the dc load must operate in constant current sink mode.currently tested power supplies: HP/Agilent/Keysight 66312A, 66332A, 6631B, 6632B, 6633B, 6634B, 6611C, 6612C, 6613C, and 6614Ccurrently tested dc electronic loads or 2/4 quadrant power supplies: HP/Agilent/Keysight 6631B, 6632B, 6633B, 6634BBelow pictures are taken for a MP1584 dc-dc buck regulator whose output voltage is set to 5V.If you have any questions or found errors in the software please let me know.

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2021, 08:49:08 pm
content: This looks pretty cool - digging in to it now!

author: leowood
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 29, 2024, 05:44:42 am
content: I've developed a similar software in Python. It utilizes an ancient 6632A as the power supply unit and another dated 66332A as the electronic load. Utilizing GPIO enhances the testing speed. In this instance, I'm examining the TPS 61088 module (3.6V to 12V) and a MI car charger (12V to 5V).

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2024, 06:30:34 am
content: That looks like a neat piece of software.Tho if IVI VISA was used to communicate with the instruments it would open up the ability to talk to PSUs/Loads over other all the other protocols too (USB, LAN, GPIB, PXI, LAN to GPIB bridges etc..)
my home brew morse code key - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: diy.technodict
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 02, 2014, 10:17:19 am
content: my first YouTube video about my morse code key. kindly give me your feedback and suggestion on improving it !

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2014, 10:25:51 am
content: Quote from: diy.technodict on January 02, 2014, 10:17:19 amFirst thing to improve, only 3 words ... focus, focus and focus.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 12:21:32 am
content: For improving the key;Seems like the base might be quite light, add a chunk of metal to the bottom of the case for some more weight, and some little rubber feet.Maybe a dim LED on the key, if it is easy.For your speed;I found that instead listening to each tone/learning each tone, learn the strings. Eg, don't learn a decision tree for the morse, instead just learn the strings.Practice.

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 03:23:57 am
content: Is that just a straight key or an Iambic? Looks like a straight key. Going to be kinda hard to control a "Bug" as a straight key.
My implementation of the Nixie tube display project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: intabits
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 09:10:28 am
content: I've used the driver electronics that Dave came up with (TPIC6B595 chips), but a different construction/layout. I probably would have done something like this in any case, but needing neon bulbs for decimal points pushed it along. (My IN-12A Nixies have only the 10 digits cathodes, no DP)I'm quite pleased with how this format worked out, as having the driver chips underneath the Nixies allows for short and neat connections between themIt works, but has some problems, which I attribute to pushing the limits of my homemade PCB capability. I expect to eliminate them by using manufactured PCBs, which are not far away.Video is at:-https://youtu.be/zcEOusMx8uEThe Arduino sketch that ran the demo is at:-https://hastebin.com/rowomixazu.cs
My Latest Project - XRAY machine  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Riotpack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 04:19:53 am
content: Hi,Just thought I'd start a topic on my latest project. It will be eventually built into a lead screened microwave so it can do full CT scanning using the rotating platter. I have about 80% of the parts.This is just a quick mock up and it is all going well. I am getting corona effect on my HT due to the short HV lead out of the HV PSU that I had to join on to; This will be potted to prevent this in a weeks time.

author: jh15
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 04:39:54 am
content: Please describe, are you using a tv tube of the past? Your picture has not much detail.Also, if playing with x-rays be careful.If I was doing this to me shielding would be important like having a fire extinguisher nearby science experiments. Don't irradiate yourself or neighbors.Even Edison gave up playing with this stuff due to employee harm. (Even before lawyer sue age craze of today).As I was typing this, I thought a cheap shield around the project could be discarded car batteries. Astronauts like to sleep behind lead cells in the station to reduce cosmic ray flashes to their retinas.

author: Riotpack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 04:58:30 am
content: I am using a dental XRAY tube. I have a 50kV supply controlled by 4-20mA signals at the moment but will have to scale up in the future.I am very careful, my job involves designing at 66kV and above and all monitoring of ionizing radiation is done at my risk assessment stage before powering this beast up.It is at very early stages at present, just the basic supplies to ensure all gear is in operable condition before I build the final design.

author: jeremy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 05:01:19 am
content: nice!

author: Riotpack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2014, 05:03:19 am
content: This is the tube I am using.
My lazy multifeedback low pass filter is a no pass filter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Obi_Kwiet
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2015, 04:29:35 am
content: I'm trying to throw together a quick and dirty anti-aliasing filter to play around with Freedom K64F's built in ADC and DSP functions. The plan is to feed it an audio signal, and see how it does, but quality isn't important at this point.I have some dual opamps LM358s sitting around, so I biased the input to the mid-point of the ADC (~1.65V), used one of the op-amps as a unity gain buffer, and fed that into the reference filter in this design calculator:http://sim.okawa-denshi.jp/en/OPttool.phpThe problem is that the output across all frequencies pretty much uniformly has a gain of maybe -25dB. I probed the circuit and found that everything looks great at the input node of the low pass filter, so the LM358 is working. I'm powering it with +12V and Ground, but the signal isn't going anywhere near ground.Does anyone who knows the LM358 well have any suggestions before I tear down and try another approach?Thanks!

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2015, 04:51:08 am
content: Schematic?Is the input AC coupled and the op-amp biased to VCC/2, or the input referenced to a virtual ground?Tim

author: Obi_Kwiet
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2015, 05:22:19 am
content: See attachment. Hopefully that will make things easier to see at a glance.Like I say, I probed at pin 1 and the signal is doing exactly what it should be there. Nice pretty unity gain, biased around 1.65v, no where near ground.

author: ludzinc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 19, 2015, 05:39:48 am
content: Low pass filter needs to be referenced to your mid-point.As it is, at DC it's got a gain of -1, and your audio is at VCC/2. Multiply that by -1 and your output is at ground.

author: Obi_Kwiet
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2015, 03:10:49 pm
content: Doh! I should have noticed that! Negative gain applies to the DC component as well!This is what I get for copy-pasting a topology without taking the time to understand it. It's been too long since I've worked with hardware.Thanks!

author: K5HJ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2015, 03:32:29 pm
content: Pin 5 must be referenced to 1.65V as well.Randy
My Lightweight STM32 UART Flash Loader - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: twatorowski
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 28, 2015, 07:15:46 am
content: Hello Everyone,I've just finished developing a simple C# library for communicating with UART Bootloaders, that ST incorporates in their STM32 family products. In addition I've a written a very compact flash uploader application which may be considered as a replacement for the buggy "Flash Loader Demonstrator" which doesn't work to well with cheap USB<->UART converters. You can see the user interface looks like in the picture attached. What's so neat about it is that you only need to press one button in order to get the binary file loaded into your MCU. That was the main reason for me to actually undertake the effort of developing this app. I just couldn't stand that "wizard" like approach that ST implemented in Flash Loader Demonstrator.All is open source here, so feel free to re-use it in any way you like.Here's the link to GitHub:Source Code,Binary Release, and a short post on my blog ishereRegards,Tomek

author: diyaudio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2015, 12:42:01 pm
content: Quote from: twatorowski on July 28, 2015, 07:15:46 amthank you will check it out.

author: pallav.aggarwal@gmail.com
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2016, 08:11:59 am
content: Hi twatorowski,Thank you for sharing STM32 UART Flash LoaderIt would be good to also have RTS(Reset or MODE SELECT) and DTR(Reset or MODE SELECT) control in your code. That way we can make it fully automatic. at te moment you need to make manual configuration for boot mode and manual reset is required if it gets stuck somewhere.

author: Kalvin
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2016, 08:39:59 am
content: I implemented something similar in the current project I am working on. I found out that the "read memory" doesn't have any checksum for the actual data.Using my cheap USB-to-serial module produces few bit errors every now and then when reading the STM32 memory. For example, after the flash erase the memory should be all 0xff, but due to the transfer bit errors, some bytes were something else than 0xff. Similar situation happens when I compare a programmed device with the programmed data. This may also happen in the real life with other devices if the USART clocks differ too much.I decided to read each memory block twice, compare that the read blocks match before any further processing. If the memory blocks do differ, there will be two retries before an error is reported and the program aborts.
My LM3478-based SMPS isn't working so well. Thoughts? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: robertbaruch
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2016, 03:04:57 am
content: Vital statistics (with datasheet links):Input voltage: 8-12VDCOutput voltage: 170VDCOutput current: Up to 150mASMPS controller:LM3478Switch:IRF630Diode:LQA10T300Inductor:22u 7A toroidMy detailed design procedure ishere.Schematic:I built the circuit on perfboard.So, I didn't bother with adjusting the pot, and my no-load output was 176.5VDC. Loaded down with 100k (1.8mA) the voltage remained stable. However, at 7.2k load (22.5mA) the voltage dropped to 162VDC, and the circuit was audible. Going all the way to a 1.2k load (about 150mA) caused the output to drop to about 100VDC.Here's a shot of the gate waveform (top) and the feedback pin (bottom) with the 7.2k load. Feedback seems to be right where it should be, around 1.26V with transients. Gate waveform has a period of 82usec (12.2kHz, explaining the whine). (Sorry, I haven't bothered yet to learn how to get screenshots of the Rigol).With low loads, the gate waveform seems to be where it's supposed to be (625kHz).I determined that around 43k load (4.1mA) the voltage dropped very slightly, but the circuit seemed to switch between high frequency and low frequency operation.What could be causing the voltage drop and incorrect gate frequency at higher loads?
My Metering project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: threephase03
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2019, 05:59:43 am
content: AC smart meter using an Arduino and Energy metering IC. Works pretty good. Just got to fine tune the calibration.

author: rahandford
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2019, 06:43:47 am
content: What dedicated IC are you using? I was just looking at the attached.

author: threephase03
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2019, 12:31:22 pm
content: Sorry for the late reply i'm using an ATM90E26you can get my board gerbers here and all the code I usehttps://youtu.be/1buuy6ke9Dc
My 'Mini Synthi' - Analogue Synthesizer (includes SN76477 ) project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Doofer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 09, 2024, 01:55:58 pm
content: Just in case anyone is thinking of building an analogue synthesizer, here's my story, an opportunity to learn from the mistakes of this dinosaur.https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tzxWRVqCrFqDHX45qwBqRnbqFE15PPPF/view?usp=sharing
My Mini Tesla Coil Video (also transistor switching/checking, nostalgia, etc.) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mcsoftware
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 03:01:10 pm
content: I finally made the Tesla coil (Slayer Exciter) video I mentioned in a previous post. If you want to build a mini Tesla coil, diagnose a non-working one, know about modeling circuits in LTSpice, know some electronics principles, or see some electronics nostalgia, this video is for you. In trying to diagnose my Tesla coil, I show ways to test a transistor (and ways to use a transistor for switching), and show how transformers work (even design power supplies), and show some nostalgic things from the past (such as electronics kits). Also, I show variations of this circuit, and I show that this circuit really should work. BTW, I pretty much show (or discuss) just about everything that uses a coil.It's so jam-packed with stuff / information, it's really 7 or 8 videos in one.
My new Video about Boost Converters  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Post_Apocalyptic_Inventor
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2014, 02:04:52 pm
content: Hey Guys ! My latest video is now online. After talking about Charge Pumps and Buck Converters in the last video, this time I deal with the Boost Converter and its principle of operation. The video also covers the idea behind car ignition systems and other usefull information. It is also part 4 of my SMPS-video tutorial series and again I put a lot of time and work in the video. I guess it's worth a few minutes of your timeHere is the link:I hope you enjoy it and please leave me a comment right here or on Youtube.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 30, 2014, 09:40:12 pm
content: Indeed, I enjoyed your video very much! Looking forward to more.

author: TerminalJack505
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2014, 06:03:34 am
content: Nice job on these videos!Two thumbs up.

author: calzap
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2014, 01:18:56 am
content: Very nicely done series. However, I couldn't open the first video in the SMPS series. The youtube page loads as do the comments, but the video itself doesn't. I tried both FireFox and IE Explorer. Chances are it's a problem with the file at the closest server farm, so it will probably be available in the rest of the world. Will likely be fixed in a day or so when the files are refreshed.I also watched some of your series on RFID tags. Again, very nicely done. Strangely, I have the same youtube problem with the first and fourth in the detector series too; i.e. everything is there on the webpages except the videos themselves won't load. Something sinister at work?You might post a warning though about taking the zapper into a store. Because RFID tags are used as anti-theft devices, mere possession of a zapper in a store might be taken as intent to steal. The same might be true of a detector or disrupter in some jurisdictions. Trying to pass through customs or airport security in some countries with one of these devices might be a little risky too.Mike in California
My new hobby lab assistant - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 05, 2013, 01:39:02 pm
content: If you, like me have a memory like a gold-fish then maybe you need a lab assistant to help you with your projects!How it works; using a bluetooth headset, win7 and MS speech recognition; you basically just ask for what you need. for example an electronics part description or the pin-out on a chip, or maybe the test voltages etc for system you've designed.The knowledge is added as a speech macro; below is a simple example for the LM317.Code:<command><listenFor>lm317 index</listenFor><speak>lm317, index.overview.features.pin descriptions for pins 1 to pin 3.</speak></command><command><listenFor>lm317 overview</listenFor><speak>lm317.3-Terminal Positive Adjustable Regulator.</speak></command><command><listenFor>lm317 features</listenFor><speak>lm317,Output Current, In Excess of 1.5 amps.Output Adjustable Between 1.2 volts and 37 volts.Internal Thermal Overload Protection.Internal Short Circuit Current Limiting.</speak></command><command><listenFor>lm317 pin 1</listenFor><speak>lm317, pin 1. input voltage, 1.2, volts, to 37 volts</speak></command><command><listenFor>lm317 pin 2</listenFor><speak>lm317, pin 2. voltage adjust</speak></command><command><listenFor>lm317 pin 3</listenFor><speak>lm317, pin 3. voltage out</speak></command>This all came about because I'm planning to design some lab gear just for fun but I wanted to challenge the way we use test gear.Perhaps we could build up a common electronics knowledge database?
My new projects… - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ozcar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2020, 01:10:36 am
content: No, I lied, they are not really new, although I did revisit one of them a few days ago.I made the one on the left around 22 years ago (!), and the larger one on the right around 52 years ago(!!).The older one was based on a design by Don Lancaster (https://www.tinaja.com), and published in the September 1967 edition of Popular Electronics, under the title “Spots before your eyes”. It uses four RTL ICs. At least, it was supposed to - the counters in my one insisted on getting into an invalid state that resulted in an incorrect display, and I added another RTL IC to force it to count correctly.I modified the suggested construction, so that the “spots” that are not turned on are not visible – I quite like that feature. If you think the LED colours are a bit washed out, those are not LEDs, they are 6V 50mA incandescent lamps, with coloured cellophane over them.Scanned pages of that old project are here:https://deramp.com/swtpc.com/PopularElectronics/Sep1967/PE_Sep1967.htmThe new one (well, the 22 year-old one), uses a PIC12C509 and a single transistor.The switch on the older one is to “throw” the dice. The switch on the other is just to turn it on, to “throw’ it you shake or tilt it (no fancy mems sensor, just a good, old-fashioned non-ROHS <censored> switch).Yes, I have seen the tiny versions, but I’ll leave those for people with better eyesight to construct.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2020, 01:48:00 am
content: Quoteyou can find the whole magazine as a pdf athttps://worldradiohistory.com/Archive-Poptronics/60s/67/Pop-1967-09.pdf, plus loads of other interesting publication
my obscure/weird displays - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: marshallh
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 17, 2012, 09:48:48 pm
content: First one is a Planar 512x256 electroluminescent display.By sending it a 50% alternating XOR pattern I could see the burnin pretty easily. It came out of some sort of optical insepection rig.100 and -100v flybacks, for row/columns. The drivers are by NEC, which are very similar to SUpertex serial in, parallel out HV shift regs.There is a NEC asic directing the incoming bitstream.Driving it with a Cyclone III here. This is the sort of thing that's trivial on fpga but impossible with a cpu.It is a very bright orange when lit. It is kinda like a warm OLED.And error diffusionIt's actually very meaty, about 10 inches long. Very thin actually. Was going to put it in my car but it's way too big.more later

author: veryevil
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 17, 2012, 10:51:37 pm
content: I've got a couple of similar Planar displays. They are awesome! However I drive mine with a single PIC32 chip. No problem when using DMA.

author: marshallh
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 17, 2012, 11:50:22 pm
content: Thanks, next one is jsut a vanilla IEE vfd, nothing special. It does support several interfaces (intel bus, hd44780, etc)Next is a huge 20x1 VFD sign moduleIt runs on a motorola 6800 with 48K of ram.Click here for biggerhttp://img36.imageshack.us/img36/5610/img2036eg.jpg

author: poodyp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2012, 12:18:05 am
content: I like the graphic of the SCA, very relevant this week. Is that their official badge or something?That seems like a lot of stuff for just a 1x20 display, does the 6800 do anything other than run the display?This display talk makes me want to find my 2x20 VFD.
My Orange Pi power supply project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Moondeck
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 10:39:29 am
content: Hi everyone,I made a little power supply for my Orange Pi to solve the problem of sourcing a high-current 5V supply and small barrel jacks used on the OPi.I have published it on my little blog-site-thingo that i actually run on an OPi PC+ with that very supplyPlease, tell me what you think about it and what i should improve. I am also soon coming out with a new version, with some minor adjustments and i am going to produce a few, would anyone be interested in getting some?http://moondeck.novakovsky.eu/2017/03/designing-a-switching-psu-for-orange-pi/Thanks,moondeck

author: laneboysrc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 05:45:25 am
content: Neat project!A few suggestions:Neither your blog nor your post mention the input voltage of your converter. Is it meant to be powered by 12V? Is it meant to be powered from a Li-Ion battery? Who knows ...How about cooling? These things get hot very quickly, and now your covering the top with your converter. Maybe make the board as narrow as possible, or add a cut-out over the CPU where a heat sink can poke through.keep going, Werner

author: Leon23
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 07:14:13 am
content: For some reason I cannot seem to access the url.Is it me locally or do others experience similar issue?

author: Moondeck
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2017, 07:39:44 am
content: Sorry for my late reply, i was busy with stuff.QuoteYes, its meant to be powered by 12V. You can use up to 40V if you increase the voltage/remove the input cap. Its a buck converter, so under-7V batteries are a no-go. I will mention it in the next post.QuoteI've actually ran cpuburn for 24h with this supply on top and a little GPU RAM heatsink on the CPU, the cooling is enough. It was a major fear while designing but turned out to be fine.
My own residential alarm - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Jasonbit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2021, 02:56:22 pm
content: Hello,I intend create my own residential alarm. For this I am thinking use one power supply, some relays and sensors.Firstly I am thinking use photoelectric cells (like this:https://media.cablematic.com/__sized__/images_1000/tz05800-01-thumbnail-1080x1080-70.jpg). But this cells it is expensive on my country.Therefore I am thinking find a type of sensor more cheap and to apply directly on windows shutters (on my country the windows blinders is like this:https://previews.123rf.com/images/aquapictures/aquapictures1606/aquapictures160600695/57940248-exterior-of-wall-house-with-window-shutters-portugal-outdoors.jpg)I am thinking on this model (or something like that):https://omronfs.omron.com/en_US/ecb/products/pdf/en-ee_sx398_498.pdfI can't understand if I will need a circuit to model the signal or I can connect directly the relay through OUT-GND pins. I can power on the sensor, through pin (V) Power Supply - VCC and Ground (GND) and "listen/detect" the signal through pin Output (OUT)?Thank you in advance

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2021, 05:45:01 pm
content: Good old reed switches and magnets and / or decent quality microswitches are probably the simplest and most reliable solution. They are probably the most easily and cheaply available for you too.Opto detectors are ok, but need additional mechanical and circuit complexity. They are also more susceptible to dust (certainly compared to reed switches), insects crossing the optical gap etc.With things like alarms, the KISS approach tends to be the best for the sort of reliable operation that you need. Personally, I would go with reed switches for ease of mounting and reliable sealed contacts.Opto sensors, like the one you linked, are great for rotating shaft position sensors etc. where high frequency operation and no mechanical limit on operating cycles are important, but those aren't issues that you face.
My perennial project: Telescope Controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mclemens1969
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 06:03:15 pm
content: I keep coming back to this project over the last few years whenever I have some time. It's a joystick controller for telescope mounts (with libraries of sky objects, GPS, bluetooth, built in joystick and an external joystick connection.)The case is 3D printed (optically, laser sintered nylon) in two materials. I've been using threaded inserts in the plastic which seem to work very well.Mike in Alaska

author: mclemens1969
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 06:04:23 pm
content: OSH park boards, I love them ! You can see I made a slot for an aluminum bulkhead to slide into the 3D printed case bottom. Very nice security for connectors.

author: mclemens1969
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 06:11:05 pm
content: "Alumide" case bezel snaps on and entraps the red lexan lens.

author: Aeternam
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 07:57:42 pm
content: Great looking gizmo! How do you communicate with the mount? Is it a generic controller or for a specific make / model?

author: tkuhmone
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 09:03:07 pm
content: Interesting project :-) Personally I let the ready made electronics (and firmware) control my astro mount. Currently it is non-goto model of Skywatcher HEQ-5 (with C8 SCT OTA). I have already purhased a goto kit (hand controller, cables, stepper motors), just needs to be installed....Does the HW & SW you built, handle also sky-target aligning in your controller ? Usually couple of pointed stars needed for that.

author: mclemens1969
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 10:03:23 pm
content: Quote from: Aeternam on February 10, 2017, 07:57:42 pmIt has RS232 and bluetooth with RS232, so it could be connected to a serial port of a mount, or could connect to an ext BT adapter which was connected to the mount. At this time it is specific to Astro-Physics mounts. I have written the software though where there is a generic telescope language (park, goto etc) which then converts to brand specific actions, so it is readily adaptable.
My personal "Dig-Uno" project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ElectricPower
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2022, 02:40:49 am
content: I'm definitly an noob when it comes to design of PCB, but here is my first design of an "DIG-Uno" for personal use. It's not an direct copy. It's just the result after many hours on Youtube and web.
My portable rechargeable power supply (mod)  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Asim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 10:43:23 am
content: Hi everyonecouple of months ago I decided to build a portable power supply but never had the chance until now. This is a thread i opened at that time (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/opinion-needed-on-lm2956-based-portable-power-supply/msg479340/#msg479340)one of the guys asked me to post my work so here it is.materials used:1. LM2596 based digital supplyhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/400561586157and here is a review about it2. lithium batteries3. Protection PCB for 4 Packs 14.8V Lithium w/Balancehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Protection-PCB-for-4-Packs-14-8V-Li-ion-Lithium-18650-Battery-4-8A-w-Balance-/261217818070?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd1cb95d64. a bigger 7 segment display5. a fancier push buttons6. miscellaneousI de-soldered the 7 segment, push buttons and the LEDs and made my own PCB as the front panalThe unit is rechargeable all what's needed is to switch it off and recharge it from the input jack at the back.The dimensions are 14 cm *10 cm*6 cmand DONE.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 12:54:40 pm
content: That's a nice module.What's the output voltage range?Have you measured the current?How long does the battery last for?

author: Asim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 01:18:42 pm
content: Quote from: Hero999 on December 04, 2014, 12:54:40 pm"What's the output voltage range?"the module itself can take 40V input and give 36 output ( didn't check it though as I don't have that voltage )for my unit it gives an output of 0V to 16.6V at fully charged batteries."Have you measured the current?"I did, it is accurate enough, my dummy load blew up so I can't test it extensively"How long does the battery last for?"what is your current consumption ? it all depends on your loads

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 03:05:31 pm
content: Sorry I meant to ask you about ripple too?It would be interesting to see the efficiency at different loads and voltages.

author: Asim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 03:35:16 pm
content: Quote from: Hero999 on December 04, 2014, 03:05:31 pmI don't know as I don't have the setup needed for measuring the ripple ( no dummy load to start with)but I can tell you that it uses LM2596 regulator, if you check the datasheet it would give you a rough idea about the performance expected from the device
My Programmable DC UPS Power Backup Design - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Kedar264
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2015, 02:51:06 am
content: Mostly, the ups we see today are DC to ac but ultimately we need DC to power most of the devices like laptop, servers,And convention of DC into ac is not so efficient ,that's why I this designed DCIt's not the (bull's eye)Most perfect but working fine from almost a year from nowSee full design explainationhttps://youtu.be/sdZuqFaXjGE#Parts Used1. 150 watt DC to DC step up converter (at output)2. 4A step down converter ( for battery charging)3. 12v ,7ah lead acid battery4. At mega 3285. 150 watt rectifier circuit6. 12v 2A TransformerI used some custom isolated ac voltage detector circuit which uses 100k ressistor,0.1uf cap and opto coupler inseries and ,when it detects ac Voltage it provides 5v to arduinoArduino manages all the stuff like ,battery cut off at 13.8v ,using relay controlled rectifier which charges battery .

author: TheElectricChicken
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 03:21:01 am
content: This is absolutely brilliant, I want to build exactly this sort of thing, to charge from solar and for the arduino to run off the circuit it is charging. Excellent work. I've only seen some of the video so far (grumble internet problems)
My progress on an Electronic Load - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mswhin63
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2015, 02:50:58 pm
content: Hi All,Just thought i would post my attempt to create an electronic load. Using a fairly standard design method.Although I have been considering building one for a long time, Peter Oakes posts recently inspired me to get off my ass and finally make it. I will as shown through the video investigate the current sense alteration that will provide complete isolation of the load to the rest of the circuitry but in the meantime will continue with the standard design method.Enjoy if you want -https://youtu.be/A55WDT57svsMy basic concept concepts may be a tad oversimplified so let me know if there is any oversight or whether it is too simple.One day i will get the hang of video blogging.
My PSU Project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: uMinded
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 04, 2012, 04:07:36 am
content: I just finished watching the PSU build videos and let me say THANK YOU!! I have had most of my components laying around and have been trying to figure out how to limit the wattage dropped by my series pass transistor when drawing high currents and low voltages.In my design I have a 160VA 2x40VAC torroid transformer so as to get dual 0-30V/2A design. However when set at 5V and 1A the transistor will be dropping 25W which is a LOT of heat to try and handle in a small package. I had never thought of using a DC-DC converter to track my output voltage before. The closest I came up with was a relay to switch the center tap of a transformer so it would be 0-15V and 15-30V but that still left me with ~10W to handle.In the uSupply design you are using a DC-DC boost regulator where I will require a buck regulator. I am however having a horrible time trying to find one that meets my requirements on digikey's search. I was hoping somebody had used a brand before and knew of a chip I can use.DC-DC BuckHigh switching freq, >750kHz preferable40+ VDC input3A currentMUST have a control pin, Similar to the MIC2253 for tracking.I will also require a smaller less robust chip to bring the 5V LDO out of the melting zone. A LM3805 at 250mA on a 40VDC supply would drop ~8W, if I can get a cheap low frequency DC-DC buck converter I wont need to mount my LDO on anything at all.DC-DC BuckAny switching freq40+ VDC input6-12VDC output250mA current
My radio wealth. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: 4L1G
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 02:37:08 pm
content: Но это не все!Не знаю как все фото разместить...I don't know how to place all the photos ...

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 08:21:51 pm
content: What is the blue insttrument with the carry handle in the last picture?

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 08:52:15 pm
content: Wow, that's some collection. Are they all USSR and do they work?Very impressive.

author: 4L1G
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 09:26:38 pm
content: Quote from: bob91343 on December 23, 2021, 08:21:51 pmЭто частотомер Ч3-32.This is a frequency counter Ч3-32.

author: 4L1G
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 09:31:02 pm
content: Quote from: Benta on December 23, 2021, 08:52:15 pmAll workers, I restore them and put them in the collection.Все рабочие, я их реставрирую и кладу в коллекции.

author: 4L1G
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 24, 2021, 06:36:55 am
content: "Фестиваль" 1957 года.
My Real Life Health Bar - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Greyersting
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2013, 03:37:49 am
content: I had made this a while ago after seeing the other liquid lifebar thing and not being able to find the program to make it work. One cool thing about this is that you can easily add your own games to it if you can find the memory addresses. I know it's a stupid simple project but it is the first useful thing I have made.Downloads are here-http://greymercury.com/rlhb.htmlVideo is here-Sorry if this is the wrong section.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2013, 08:00:04 am
content: Sorry man, I couldn't see enough to tell what was going on, but yes this is the right section. Could you make another video that lets us see more?

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 13, 2013, 09:04:49 am
content: Quote from: Stonent on October 13, 2013, 08:00:04 am

author: Greyersting
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2013, 03:58:16 pm
content: Quote from: Stonent on October 13, 2013, 08:00:04 amSorry, I can't at the moment. What it does is depending on the percent of health you have in the game it lights up a different LED.It works like this-If health is > 75 then light is greenIf it is > 25 and <= 75 it is yellowIf it is >= 0 and <= 25 it is redYou can switch to 8 rule mode from the info mode which is a bit more complicated. It uses the lights being half on while others are half on in between full lights. It's hard to explain. I'll try to write the arduino code for 8 mode today or tomorrow.
My Rendition of the Constant Current Dummy Load - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2015, 09:47:45 pm
content: Hi guys,Over my winter break, I started working on a constant current dummy load based on Dave's work, and on Chris' work (from sleepyrobot.com).Finally got to finishing it over my spring break this past week.Here's some information about it:-External AC/DC power suppply-Fan cooled (no temperature control at the moment)-Load switch (with LED indicator)-10-turn pot-Internal trimmer to set max current (currently set at 1A, but can most likely do 2-3A)-Yellow and black banana jacks for current measurement (1A/1V)-10x 10ohm Vishay CPF3 (3W) resistorsI made up a brand name for it called "ClifTest" which has to do with the city I'm from, and "DCL-1" basically just means DC Load 1.Thanks! Love to hear any feedback you have.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2015, 06:39:04 am
content: Looks pretty good.I've tried to build one of those 3 times now. Never have ended up with one that really works right.

author: Asim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2015, 07:05:12 am
content: I built one as a portable unit, battery powered

author: dom0
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2015, 09:49:05 am
content: You can also power a load with it's DUT :-) (under certain circumstances, but actually modern SEPIC or Zeta converters should make this easier)

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2015, 04:34:20 pm
content: Quote from: rdl on March 23, 2015, 06:39:04 amPreliminary testing says that it works well, but I haven't checked too many types of power supplies or every condition yet.
My simple Numitron clock - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Kaptein QK
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2014, 11:29:03 pm
content: 1 Atmel ATiny24 microcontroller.1 Voltage regulator 3V for the tubes.6 TPIC6B595N 8-bit shift registers/drivers.6 IV-9 old new stock Numitron tubes.Program written in C.Built in "Jim Williams style"

author: w2aew
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2014, 11:43:42 pm
content: A thing of beauty! Those numitrons look like they're a lot easier to drive than the nixies!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2014, 05:50:43 am
content: They work off 5V directly, and are a doddle to drive.You just cannot multiplex them without having an enormous number of diodes. They were used typically with a whole board full of 4050 buffers connected direct to each segment.
My Teensy Based Robot Controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: vitormhenrique
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 01, 2016, 04:00:26 pm
content: How are you?I wanted to build a controller that I could use on a robot that I'm building, so I started my xbee teensy controller.I'm using almost every single pin available on teensy 3.1, with 20 digital channels and 7 analog channels. I think I'll not have problems to control my robot (I totally got inspirated by Q4 but with some modifications and improvements).The frame is 3d printed. I added 2 screens. One is a classic tft to output data referent to the channels and any information sent by the robot. The other is a lcd screen that will be connected to a video receiver to display a video stream.Another functionality is that booting the controller holding the red button takes the user to a menu where you can change few preferences, like analog sensibility, disable sounds, disable informations to be displayed on the screen and frequency of the data sent by the controller.The project is still a work in progress. I'll share the entire project on github and update this tread with it's link.Things that I still want to include:-- Update TFT library to the new with custom fonts to make a awesome menu.Some pictures attached.Video of the controller working:https://youtu.be/n_rnTD_0j8I
My Test & Measurement Theory & Servicing Book - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2020, 10:18:07 am
content: Hi!I have begun work on a three–year project to write a very large book on the Theory and Servicing of Test & Measurement Equipment of the type most likely to be collected by hobbyists, experimenters, retired engineers, etc., so I'm not covering the 3458A, 4700/4800/Fluke Calibrators, umpteen–thousand–£ HP LCR Meters, VNAs, etc., all of this class of equipment I shall leave to this Forum!If, however, you want to buy untested "college–lab" type equipment from eBay, or have got things stored away in attics, etc, then my book will cater for you!The book currently contains, as planned so far, 180 chapters written over 16 parts/sections plus a final appendix at the end.A selection of useful projects to build is intended to be included in each section, and the final part 16 will contain practical repair examples from my own collection of faulty T & M!The work will be C.C. Licenced and free to download, with a GitHub Repository containing document source files, images, fonts, etc.Where Members here have repair accounts of equipment of useful pieces of equipment worth including, with pics, I shall be contacting the Member concerned by P.M. for permission to reuse their photos, and the appropriate acknowledgements will be stated!PCB Gerber/design files, code, Arduino sketches, hex, etc., etc., where included in the projects quoted, will be of my own desgn wherever possible and will be posted in the folder pertaining to the chapter concerned!For more details, see:–https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=166405The idea for this book was spawned by a general disatisfaction with the current commercially available literature, nearly all of it being page after page of mathematics and equations, and the practical explanation of the circuit operation is too often glossed over, and practical fault finding is info is virtually non existent in these books!Chris Williams

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2020, 07:19:19 pm
content: QuoteI don't know how you would begin to define "most likely" but looking over your outline, you seem to have a several chapters dedicated to vintage analog meters. While I personally have no use for such a device, I would have thought the internet would have this topic covered in spades.It's interesting that VNAs are not covered but I would say that area seen more growth than any other with the release of the NanoVNA.Good luck with it.Ch 3 Introduction to Electronic MeasurementsCh 4 The Moving Iron and Moving Coil MeterCh 8 Introduction to the Valve VoltmeterCh 9 Practical Valve Voltmeter circuits explainedCh 10 Fault Finding and Repair of Valve VoltmetersCh 12 A Commercial Design Analysed – The Avo EA113 Electronic VoltmeterCh 13 Fault Finding and Repair of Transistorised VoltmetersCh 14 Build a High Stability Valve Voltmeter
my.ti - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2014, 10:20:24 pm
content: Is it me, or is TI's website a little bit confusing? I'm trying to get more info on thishttp://www.ti.com/devnet/docs/catalog/endequipmentproductfolder.tsp?actionPerformed=productFolder&productId=17440&keyMatch=rtm-boc&tisearch=Search-ENWhen I click the "request more info" button just halfway down the page, it sends me to the "register" page... but I'm already registered. I got the email and everything.When I log in, the bottom of the screen shows my name and a "logout" button, which I think means I'm logged in, but the top of the same webpage shows "login/register".Ugh.

author: microbug
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2014, 10:28:10 pm
content: I checked and the same thing happens for me. My experience with the TI website has generally been quite good, however. I did have some trouble downloading the BQ29700 datasheet because it wanted to check me against some terrorist database or something. Lots of very scary 'your request WILL be denied if you don't fill out this form' messages.