hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Fluke 287 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: edwardcurrentclamps
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 03:01:29 am
content: Hey guys need a little help here with my Fluke. For some reason it won't measure current no more. The fuses look alright. Any susuggestions? Thanks

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 03:09:39 am
content: Check the manual at the Maintenance section on the topic "Testing the Fuses", it has a self test to determine if the fuses are still ok without opening it or pulling out the fuses.Edit : Just click here to view online directly at that section ->Testing the Current Fuses, watch closely how the lead is connected in order to do the self test.

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 03:11:40 am
content: What do you mean by they look ok. They are ceramic fuses so when they are blown they don't change appearance. If you pull them from the meter thigh and check their continuity/resistance you will find they are open.Sent from my EVO 4G LTE using Tapatalk

author: edwardcurrentclamps
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 04:21:27 am
content: Thanks guys, will do when I am back in the lab. Well, they are ceramic but I was quite sure that the serated part of the metal ring "pops".

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 04:46:05 am
content: Nope, not usually anyways.Sent from my EVO 4G LTE using Tapatalk

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 08:09:14 am
content: Quote from: edwardcurrentclamps on October 23, 2013, 04:21:27 amonly on industrial hrc fuses where it indicates is blown. in the meter you wont even see that indicator unless you remove the battery holder, btw if you plan to measure currents which can pop that expensive fuse get hold of an allegro hall current sensor. the meter has enough resolution to resolve approx few hundred miliamps of difference from the sensor's output its enough to have a ballpark from the actual current, or an external current sense resistor. i measured airsoft rifle's motor current draw with heavy psrings the damn things on stock motors take more than 15-20amps from a 2 cell lipo
Rigol DS2072 bug - shows wrong time/div after zoom - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Circlotron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 05:18:02 am
content: Did a single trace of 1 sec/div with about 4,000 cycles of waveform, then stopped it and zoomed in and panned about. Sometimes (always in a given session) what was known to be a 1mS wide pulse would actually show as 200us on the screen and also by the cursors. Zoom back fully out and an indicated 1 sec/div came up with a short trace, not the full screen width. Scope was calibrated ~25th August 2013 IIRC, can't get to details right now.
Hantek 6022BE 20Mhz USB Scope Review ish - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Sirus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 02:05:06 am
content: Recieved my £56 USB scope opened it up etc.It is noisey (40mv), however for 56 squid, it's not that awful.Front end looks like they made room and pads on the pcb for shielding cans, but didn't put the in the unit. Maybe because it wouldn't make a difference due to the front end chips or maybe the dac (NXP 74HC4051D).Dual 8 bit DAC, AD9288 BSTZ-40, I noted the Refs where grounded.processor is a CY7C68013a-100AXCSoftware isn't that awful but if you do a oneshot capture you are stuck with scrolling through that time domain and resolution, we are talking one scroll per bit, it's bloody horrid. Not sure but if anyone has the source code this would be an easy fix, a smart arse programmer needs to contact themFor £56 I don't see a problem buying one of these. Yes I know it isn't great, yes I know it's shit to certain standards, but if you are a hobiest and all you need is some way to see or visualise a rough idea of whast is going on then to be frank this is bloody awsome. It's cheeper than a crap multimeter. One shot capture is big to, 5 minutes, don't quote me.It's hard to find an honest review on these so I thought I might say something.and maybe a prom not looked it up, 24LC02BI

author: Sirus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 02:06:17 am
content: attaching a pic, didn't work first tim ;P

author: rexxar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 04:25:41 pm
content: Good lord, who laid out this board and plonked that BNC right in the middle of that header row?Looks like you could have a logic analyzer or a trigger input, but not both.

author: Sirus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 08:43:23 pm
content: Yup, I thought that, looks like a one size fits all type of board. I would try the bnc to see if it's for an external trigger but it doesn't show up on software. I was thinking the logic version would be 16 bit + a trigger due to 17 input resistors.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 09:09:32 pm
content: Have you seen this thread ?https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hantek-6022be-20mhz-usb-dso/

author: Sirus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2013, 11:15:50 pm
content: No, I did a search before I started the thread, these forum searchs are always bloody awful. I hope I didn't cause some kinda double thread anomaly.I will read the thread tomorrow, thanks.

author: Sirus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2013, 11:19:55 pm
content: oooo open software, Thanks Aurora, more looking indeed
RIGOL DS2000 Series Model Designation. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Carrington
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2013, 11:29:29 am
content: Here are the titles for the next releases of the series Rigol DS2000XX:1) DS2202, DS2102, DS2072, DS2302, DS20522) DS2202A, DS2102A, DS2072A, DS2302A, DS2052A3) DS2202E, DS2102E, DS2072E, DS2302E, DS2052E4) DS2202D, DS2102D, DS2072D, DS2302D, DS2052D5), DS2202AD, DS2102AD, DS2072AD, DS2302AD, DS2052ADSource:http://www.certipedia.com/certificates/72121145?locale=en&page_number=1By the way, thanks to Bored@Work, and his post:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/does-rigol-1052e-have-tuv-ul-and-csa-certificate/msg314427/#msg314427Now people wonder should I wait until the DS2000AD.- NO MSO???- Why are left to end the DS2302XX, DS2052XX? Are special models? It seems to me that its input stage will be different.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2013, 01:44:59 pm
content: Here's my guess on what these all are:DS2000: Basic modelDS2000A: Advanced modelDS2000E: Cheap, (educational) model, with less connecticity optionsDS2000D: (Digital) Mixed-SignalDS2000AD: Advanced + Mixed-SignalI plan on buying the DS2072A next month, but if I was more patient I would wait for the DS2072E. There seems to still be a 300MHz BW upgrade for it and I don't need CAN decode or 50-ohm, RS232 or LAN. Might save a couple hundred bucks

author: os40la
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2013, 02:10:31 pm
content: Why not have a 4 channel?

author: Carrington
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2013, 02:14:19 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on October 22, 2013, 01:44:59 pmWell that seems.All that can be done with the PCB of the hardware version 2.0.Is that what has been done with the Rigol 1000 series?Quote from: olsenn on October 22, 2013, 01:44:59 pmI need CAN decode, I don't need internal 50-ohm and LA.This model DS2052E will surely be cheaper, and probably modifying the input stage also reach to 300MHz.

author: JDubU
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2013, 03:20:22 pm
content: Quote from: Carrington on October 22, 2013, 02:14:19 pmNotice the date on this certification application (April 27, 2012).These certs are just for possible future model numbers that may or may not actually be manufactured and brought to market.For example, the DS2000A series is just now completely replacing the entire DS2000 series which means that models DS2302 and DS2052 listed in the certification application will never be produced.
How to Read Accuracy Spec - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: DROBNJAK
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 05:40:53 pm
content: Lets say this is an accuracy specification: ±1.0% ±2.0V and I am measuring exactly 100V, but I don't know that.So "±1.0%" part means that voltage on the DMM is going to read anywhere between 100 ±1.0% or something between 99 and 101V.What I do not understand is "±2.0V" part. Does it mean that I need to add it to the above 99-101V range, so I'll get actual 97-103V reading?

author: cyr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 05:56:04 pm
content: Yep...You may also find the second part expressed as +/- digits or +/- % of range (as opposed to +/- % of reading which the first part refers to).

author: DROBNJAK
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 06:02:16 pm
content: So is that interpretation of mine correct?Practically, reading gets quite far away from the actual value very quickly. I would say that almost one can throw away two least significant digits.

author: ohmineer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 06:13:53 pm
content: You can read this explanation fromhttp://www.ni.com/white-paper/4439/en/that will help you to understand better the concept of accuracyQuote

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 06:32:58 pm
content: Quote from: cyr on October 21, 2013, 05:56:04 pm+/- % of range or +/- full scale deflection (f.s.d.) are more commonly seen on analogue instruments. +/- digits are obviously on digital. Manufacturers use it take into account offsets in the measurement circuitry when you are at the very low end of a range. It is usually expressed in digits for a digital meter, so if the 100V range only has a resolution of 1V, +/- 2 digits would be +/-2V. However, if it had a resolution of 0.1V +/- 2 digits would be 0.2V. So your initial interpretation is correct for the statement quoted.If you look at a cal certificate you will see the uncertainties printed for each value tested (at least you should if it is worth anything). This uncertainty is produced by examining the accuracy statements above.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 22, 2013, 02:26:25 pm
content: % of range is also used in the specs for some DMMs that can change the number of digits (usually the expensive ones), for example the Fluke 8846A. Specifying digits is inconvenient if a meter can vary its resolution from 4.5 to 6.5 digits.
Does rigol 1052E have TUV,UL and CSA certificate???? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Fay
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2013, 05:48:01 am
content: I wanna import it to Canada, so does rigol 1052E have TUV,UL and CSA certificate?

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2013, 05:58:18 am
content: http://www.certipedia.com/certificates/72081808?locale=en

author: Fay
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2013, 06:05:25 am
content: THANK YOU SOOOOOO MUCH!!
Fluke 8840A multimeter stuck in self test mode - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 02:35:00 am
content: I pulled a boneheaded move. I accidentally put my 8840A into self test mode. It has been running for hours. I checked the manual and there doesn't appear any way to stop it. Does anyone have any experience with this meter and knows a way to stop the self test?Tom

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 03:55:06 am
content: Have you tried power cycling it yet?

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 05:26:50 am
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on October 21, 2013, 02:35:00 amShut it down XDYou may have put if for some reason in loop test

author: quint
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 05:27:28 am
content: I assume by self test mode, that you mean the extended test mode which you get to by holding down the SRQ button.The self test mode goes through all tests once and then goes back to normal operating mode. It should show each test number (1 to 22) as it does it and report any errors. If you don't have the AC option, then a couple of the tests will be skipped. If your meter is stuck in self test, then something has gone wrong. I've no idea what. I've worked on a few 8840A and 8842A units but haven't run into that behavior.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 01:12:33 pm
content: I have tried power cycling it and leaving it unplugged for a couple of hours. It goes right back to the self test. It is not listing the test number as it is doing it. Right now it is running the mA AC test. OK, now this is interesting. I was just looking at the manual and it said that if the meter was switched to the rear inputs, some tests would be eliminated. I pressed the switch and saw an error 31. I power cycled the meter and it is now out of self test mode and working normally. Thanks for the replies.Tom
help! how to insert a pic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Micsig
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2013, 01:47:03 am
content: i am a new user, and want to creat a new post, but i do not how to insert the photos, every time when i choose the mona lisa, it will show, how can i do.thanks ..

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2013, 02:43:59 am
content: Under the box where you type the text you have a [ + ] Attachments and other options ... click on the + or the text and you have there a place where you can put pictures that will be uploaded along with your message.After you post the message, you can go back to it, copy the image links from the footer and then edit your post and put the links between tags.
RIGOL DS1052E FAULTY, require schematic for the logic part of the scope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Potential Resistor
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 04:30:39 pm
content: Hi all, I have a very poorly Rigol DS1052E that I'd very much like to bring back to working order. I've owned it from new (2.5 years), and it has never had any abuse, nor have I tried to hack the firmware. In fact, it has only been powered up for fewer than 24 hours in all the time I've had it. Anyway, I was just wondering if any kind soul out there has a schematic for the logic part of the scope.This will include the ADC chips, FPGA, CPLD, DSP and RAM/FLASH chips etc. A block diagram perhaps?ser no: DS1ED 132007205Soft ver: 00.02.05.02.00DSP: 00.00FPGA: 02.00hardware ver: 58Any assistance would be much appreciated.PR

author: fqahmad66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 12:52:54 pm
content: http://rigol.codenaschen.de/index.php/Schematics

author: tinhead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 01:17:11 pm
content: Quote from: Potential Resistor on October 20, 2013, 04:30:39 pmafaik there is no schematic of the digital part available, two ppl started to reverse their DSOs but finally none of them finilized nor published anything. "A Hellene" was one of these who tried to reverse,https://www.eevblog.com/forum/profile/?u=6927, the another one guy have afaik no account here. You could ask as well drieg,https://www.eevblog.com/forum/profile/?u=343fromwww.silcon.cz

author: Potential Resistor
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 08:19:40 pm
content: Thanks 'tinhead' and 'fqahmad66', for taking the time to post with some helpful suggestionsI've seen the schematics that A Hellene kindly put out there, and have read through all the excellent information that was shared on the topic. What a star they are for sharing that.I think perhaps I'll post some screen shots of my DS1052E fault, and see if anyone has any suggestions.Although, having seen and read what A Hellene went through, I don't think there is much hope for the scope at this point in time.Fingers crossed though, one never knows.I suspect that it is a hardware fault, and as such, I didn't want to try a firmware upgrade for fear of obliterating the thing altogether.I'll post some screen shots of the thing in action when I get a moment.Thanks again

author: Fay
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2013, 01:59:59 am
content: SDS1072CML‘s better than 1052E,http://www.aliexpress.com/store/521168
What competes with the Fluke 289? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 05:55:40 am
content: Hi guys,Sorry to flog a dead horse here; I know this crap comes up regularly, but I can't find a recent thread.What competes with the Fluke 289?The Agilent U1272A doesn't seem to be available from Tequipment anymore. Is it still around?Aaron.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 06:11:26 am
content: The only meter I can think of that comes close is the AEMC MTX3282B. Martin Lorton has done a review on one of the series.For much less, and less features, the Brymen BM525. It does have an internal 87,000 point recording at up to 20x per second.I guess it depends on which of the features of the 289 you really want.

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 10:53:49 am
content: That MTX3282B does seem like a very good meter.Unfortunately it looks like the Motorola flip phone mated with the Transformers. It isseriouslyugly! That keypad layout looks like it was designed by the Russians, not the French.And here we have people banging on about the new Rigol power supplies.Good meter though!

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 11:04:27 am
content: Imo, when it comes to robustness, that flip phone meterjust can not beat fluke 289, imagine it falls down while with the jaw opened and facing the floor.

author: AndyC_772
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 12:11:20 pm
content: At risk of stating the obvious, the 287 does almost everything the 289 does and is a bit cheaper.
FYI: WES51 & WESD51 CHEAP at local Radio Shack in CT - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 08:16:41 pm
content: I've never seen one of these station in a Radio Shack, but the Radio Shack in Glastonbury, CT near Whole Foods as a couple of WES51s for $70, and a WESD51 for $99, in the store, new in the box. If you're looking for one of these, snatch it up before it's gone.I almost bought all three stations for friends, but I figured someone here could use them too.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 08:17:59 pm
content: Oops...I'd meant to put this in the "Other Equipment" category. Maybe a Mod could move this over one for me, or put it in whatever appropriate category there is for it?
Philips PM 3216 scope makes whining noise - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: parabuzzle
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 04:15:20 pm
content: Hey guys,So I just picked up a Philips PM 3216 for $20. Its got a broken bezel (as seems to be the case with most of these units) and the contrast plate is missing but it works! woohoo!So, when I brought it home and hooked it up to a source It reads fine and is surprisingly close to correct given the last calibration was in 1988. The problem is that the unit starts to whine pretty hard after it warms up (about 60-120 seconds). I can't really tell where its coming from but my suspicion is the power supply.Thoughts?-Mike

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 05:43:35 pm
content: Dying capacitors most likely.

author: parabuzzle
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 05:46:04 pm
content: I checked the PSU caps. They all look correct.I channeled my father and I hit the case (like he used to do with the old TV) when the whining started and the whining went away. It hasn't come back.. ahhh.. old equipment
Teardown LeCroy LC584AM In Polish ...  Po Polsku :) a co :)  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: max-bit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 09:16:09 am
content: Description of the main board (board data acquisition) LeCroy oscilloscopeI'm sorry, but it is in Polish.Few such descriptions in my native languagehttp://www.rflab.pl/opisy_sprzetu/LC584AM.htm

author: opty
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 09:25:23 am
content: Hi,Well, I quite liked it. But I can't understand what can someone who doesn't speak Polish take out of it? And since it is English speaking forum, you know.... no offence meantOpty

author: max-bit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 11:26:48 am
content: But the description in English is very muchSo it got a little bit for test, for the Polish audience, unfamiliar with the EnglishAs I have moment of time, I'll do a description in English, in the form of subtitles...One must learn foreign languages ??

author: MetraCollector
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 03:56:16 pm
content: I understand a little.
Agilent 54xxx oscilloscope dead crt. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2013, 03:13:30 pm
content: Hi , i've bought a 54xxx oscilloscope, 400mhz, 400ms/s, 2ch.Now, the screen is dead. It click once or two times at power on.Anyone has any idea on what problem can it have?I don't have experience in crt.

author: JoeyP
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2013, 06:07:36 pm
content: It it's clicking at power up, It sounds like it could be a power supply problem. I'd bet it has nothing to do with the CRT (unless its the HV power supply). Forget about the CRT for now, and troubleshoot it like you would any other circuit.

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2013, 06:44:19 pm
content: Hope not because when the power supply of this things become dead is an apocalypse!

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2013, 07:04:02 pm
content: mmh it was the first thing i've thought about...but nope, all lines are ok at nominal voltage.if a power it up, next i shut it down and i power it up again very fast i get this screen for about half a second.

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2013, 08:54:47 pm
content: There are signal and power on the crt cable, but if i touch "autoscale" i can't heard ant relay clicking

author: JoeyP
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2013, 10:50:32 pm
content: From that image, it looks like a possibility of a deflection or HV supply issue. Have you checked the CRT second anode voltage?If the supplies are all up but it doesn't respond to buttons, I'd bet it's a failure of the embedded controller. Assuming all of the simple stuff is OK (e.g. CPU clock, reset and power), the most common causes of such a failure are failed memory chips. Can be either EPROMs or RAM. Both are failure prone, while I've noticed that CPU's themselves virtually never fail in embedded systems.

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 06:09:25 am
content: There seems to be a reset issue. The uP sometimes power up without any signal on data or address. Othertimes if i probe it, it start and look like it's working. It may be a failure in the reset circuit.Clock is ok, i need to check reset.Where i need to probe for the second anode voltage?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 11:43:43 am
content: Be careful that is a very high voltage.
BK2120 Oscilloscope owners what is this possible issue? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Dark Prognosis
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2013, 12:05:59 am
content: Scope works perfectly fine but every so often it makes a loud popping sound on the right hand side as if a relay were kicking in. What in the world could this sound be? When the sound happens there is just the sound as the trace stays steady on the screen.

author: Dark Prognosis
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2013, 03:08:34 am
content: When I turn it off it will make that noise as it cools down so it must be a mechanical heat issue which is a tad worrisome.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2013, 03:20:05 am
content: I had an old Mitsubishi Diamondtron monitor that started doing that, when it happened the screen would go real fuzzy for about 1/2 second and go back.I eventually just got rid of the monitor. But it was a problem inside it.

author: Kryoclasm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2013, 03:22:48 am
content: You might have some screws loose! Well the scope too.I'd pop it open and make sure everything is secure, just make sure it isn't powered up or plugged in. Look for thermal scorch marks too.

author: Dark Prognosis
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 01:48:38 am
content: Yeah, it does it even when off as it is cooling down.

author: Dark Prognosis
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 02:55:22 am
content: Well, I just spent the last 45 mins with it open and every single last screw needed from half a turn to 2 or 3 turns. I also saw a 7812 that I couldn't get to without a lot of removal of parts but it had a different screw attaching it to the heatsink AND the screw was plastic. Obviously this was changed at some point but with the thin layer of dust all over the parts and board it was not recently.There was a power transistor on both sides of the back and the left one had a thermal pad but the right side one had none so I added thermal grease just in case.If it continues to make the thermal pop it will just have to break to figure out what to replace.
SIGLENT SDS1102DL EasyScopeX trouble - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: alisle
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 11:47:11 pm
content: Hi!I have bought a SDS1102DL oscilloscope a few days ago. The characteristics areSoftware Version: 5.06.02.16Hardware Version: 11-62-2.6Product Type: SDS1102DLSerial No.: SDS00003130011I'm trying to install the EasyScopeX. In the CD is included the version 07 and I downloaded version 08.I installed NI-VISA 5.1.2 and .NET framework 4. The osciloscope install the drivers correctly when I plug it to the USB and it appears all OK (as USBTMC). The matter is that when I try to add the device to the EasyScope, the software says that there aren't any device connected.I installed it in WinXP and Win7 and the problem is the same in both OS and with version 07 and 08.What can be happening?Sorry for my bad English, I'm from ArgentinaThanks for all!

author: Fay
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 10:07:24 am
content: Better you write to Siglent for technical support
General Tools thermal imagers - are they any good? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: ixfd64
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 07:09:44 pm
content: General Tools has a line of thermal cameras at very attractive prices. For example, the GTi50 has an IR resolution of 384 x 288 but only costs less than $5,500:http://www.tequipment.net/GeneralGTi50.htmlHowever, I could not find any reviews on this brand of cameras. Does anyone know if they're any good?

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2013, 07:58:27 pm
content: Depends on your need. That FLIR unit that Mike reviewed was about $1,000. The resolution was lower but the camera with edge detect compensates for the lower res.

author: ixfd64
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2013, 09:46:08 pm
content: I looked at the specs, and it appears the General Tools cameras do not have the hybrid imaging capabilities that FLIR (MSX) and Fluke (IR-Fusion) units offer. I suspect that may account for the differences in price.Overall, I don't think General Tools would be a bad choice because I've never seen any complaints about their cameras, and General Tools is generally (no pun intended) a respected brand. Still, I guess some reviews would be nice. Maybe we can convince them to send a unit or two over to Dave. :-)

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 12:14:02 am
content: I don't see much point spending 5k when the 1k Flir is good enough for electronic use.And with the full sensor data coming out on that pin that mike found, i'm sure someone will build an external display system to use the full sensor res and framerate.Perhaps even a mod to get it running at high res on its own screen.
Tek TLA704 Decode? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2013, 06:27:45 pm
content: I am about to buy a Tek 704 for around $240, and am interested in knowing if it has decoding for any bus.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2013, 08:44:06 pm
content: I've created some decoding software packages for SPI and I2C:https://forum.sparkfun.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=30757&p=136729&hilit=tla700#p136729
A wave of the hand... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: RupertGo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2013, 04:21:30 pm
content: I doubt this would be any better than any of the PDA/MP3 player-sized Chinese oscilloscopes, but nevertheless, here it is - or will be, if Kickstarted... the Oscilloscope Watch.http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/920064946/oscilloscope-watch?ref=categoryBut where do you keep the probes?R

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2013, 06:16:28 pm
content: Quote from: RupertGo on October 18, 2013, 04:21:30 pmFrom the link you provided:ProbesThe probes is one challenging aspect of the design. The oscilloscope can't be truly wearable/portable if not accompanied by the probes.There are a few solutions for this problem:1) Carry small probes in a keychain.2) Make a wristband made out of the probe cables.3) Use the probes as the watch straps.The keychain is the most feasible option, I'm thinking of maybe a small case, or perhaps a retractable cable, similar to those used with tiny USB mouses. Options 2 and 3 could also be considered if backers are interested.A special BNC adapter will also be designed that will plug in the 9 pin header, this will allow to use standard probes.
BK 1653A Variable AC Supply Picts mini review - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2013, 01:16:44 pm
content: Not really a review, just a few picts and a couple of thoughts, in-case anyone searches the forums for this piece.I needed an unregulated very basic AC supply, this unit fits the bill perfectly. 120v AC input give a variable output range of 0-170v (unloaded), 0-2 amps.Good:- Typical BK build quality, very sturdy, 100% metal, machine screwed construction.- Very compact, fits on the bench perfectly, 5.5"W x 6.5" H x 10.5" D.- K-nob/adjustment is your typical variac wire wound type, feels good, can carefully tweak by the individual volt.- No fan, top cover is 90% perforated metal. Don't spill your cold beer on it.Bad:- None, ok maybe the price, shipped was $330, these guys are making a killing.Thoughts:- Wish it had a standard IEC power connector.- Output Banana jacks (which it will have very soon).- Not regulated, output will swing with utility/line voltage swings. Everyone should know this, just sayin'.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2013, 01:54:01 pm
content: Thanks for this. It reads like and their website confirms, its an isolation transformer with a variac. Always good to have.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2013, 02:22:02 pm
content: Yup!Significantly better, placement was very restricted, about the only spot with room.Red and black, why not?

author: BillyD
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2013, 03:04:03 pm
content: Nice bit of kit. Probably being paranoid, as I've had a few bad experiences with chafed cables in my time, but I can't help feeling that the white wire to the primary coil is floating uncomfortably close to the jaggy edge of the transformer core. Might be worth securing it next time you have the cover off.(Or just refrain from using the supply for extended periods in off road vehicles or other such vibration-prone environments. )
Don't just rely on your test gear  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: atw60444
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2013, 02:31:40 pm
content: I'm not a big forum poster, as you can see. Just to give you a good laugh, I've spent several days looking for frequency instability in an elderly Ham Radio Tranceiver. Icom, IC-271.Convinced that the signal generator output from my Stabilock 4031 radio test set was reliable.What a twit.Here's a short video of the output from the Stabilock into my Rigol DGA815:Jon

author: DL8RI
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2013, 02:42:19 pm
content: I think you found your next repair-projectI wish you a "findable" error, it's been months since I started working on my Rohde&Schwarz CMTA84... still faults "to go".
Reshaping a beat up BNC plug - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Aldobrandi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 07:43:23 pm
content: Hey everyone,I do not know the first thing about working with metal. What can you recommend to give this beat up guy a second life?http://imgur.com/a/IOOJDI would make a new one myself but I don't have the adequate crimping tools and I'm afraid the cost would be a bit prohibitive.I have purchased a similar looking cable assembly from ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-BNC-female-bulkhead-to-SMB-female-jack-right-angle-RG316-Jumper-pigtail-8-/281153695544?pt=US_Radio_Comm_Coaxial_Cables_Connectors&hash=item417610ef38) but the coax is not the same, it isn't as flexible and as a result it doesn't fit in the original scope.Any idea?Thanks!Jerome

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 08:53:51 pm
content: I've successfully reshaped bent BNC connectors by using hollow punches like this:http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.htmlStart with the smallest size that will fit but use a size that will slip over the center insulation. 3/16 inch is about right. Maybe a fewgentletaps with a 1/4 inch punch to finish. Go slowly and don't use a sledge hammer. The metal is soft. Don't let the sharp edge of the punch cut into the center insulation in the connector. You're using the tapered outer surface of the punch to gently bend the metal of the connector back to a round shape. Test the fit often with a BNC male connector to see how you're doing. If you spread the metal of the female connector too much it won't fit and you'll have a harder problem to deal with.Your connector looks like it should be an easy fix.Ed

author: Aldobrandi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 08:57:26 pm
content: Brilliant, this is exactly the kind of information I was after! Thanks a lot Ed, I'll definitely give it a go.
Amprobe (Bryman) AM120 teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Robomeds
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 03:34:19 pm
content: Just thought I would post some quick pictures of this Bryman based Amprobe meter. Pretty nice meter. The accuracy is very good. The control feel isn’t bad at all. The backlight is… well better than nothing. The built in safety isn’t bad either but the case could feel a bit more robust.Anyway, this is clearly yet another of the Bryman designs that has been sold as an Extech, Greenlee, and who knows how many other brands. At least it’s a generally good model. Base accuracy is 0.08% DCV. Certainly quite respectable. The continuity test is a bit slow but not too bad. It also has an optical out on the back. Speaking of the back, plastic screws to hold the battery door in place. Thumbs down.It’s clear this meter was part of a family of Fluke 87 like meters that Bryman did and OEMed for other brands. Most of the other versions were more rectangular and had a protective boot. I’m not a big fan of the overmold instead of boot. The overmold offers almost no additional protection. It does perhaps improve gripping the meter but little else. On the other hand it gets dirty and is hard to clean. I am simply much happier with a real case or, well nothing. The Fluke 87 would be very robust even without the case.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 06:25:34 pm
content: Thanks for another teardown and mini-review. I see they skimped on the fuses a bit.Did you try to see if buttons S5-S8 work?

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 06:25:37 pm
content: Seems to share a lot of similarities with the AM-270. This one seems has downgraded fuses (compared to the 270), but I believe it makes up for that with better accuracy.

author: Robomeds
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 09:47:13 pm
content: I did check to see if the unused button contacts worked. Unlike some meters those unused contacts don't do anything. If you notice there are some unused pins on the riser connector. IIRC the main board under those pin holes does not have the corresponding connection.I've noticed that the AM2x0 series looks to be the same meter. I really don't know what the differences are. This one was part of a family with the 120, 130 and 150 (Note: this was the 120, not 130, I've changed the title)http://content.amprobe.com/DataSheets/am130trms.pdfGiven how many similar meters were OEMed I'm not sure which ones are which. The AM270 and Am130 seem like the same meter. I've also seen Greenlee, Extech, and other meters that are part of the same family.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 10:03:00 pm
content: It looks to me to be the usual Brymen quality. It should last a long time and cause you no trouble. The lower rated fuse thing is and this should be considered whenever you want to measure current. Keep the voltage below 500V on current measurements. The other input protection is top notch. These really are great meters.
Extended use of the beam finder - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: jerry507
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2013, 08:47:47 pm
content: My daughter knows how to turn on my tek 2215 and has now discovered the beam finder button. Should I be concerned with the possibility that she may hold down the beam finder for as long as 5-10 minutes continuous?

author: Zbig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2013, 09:27:04 pm
content: That's a bit strange thing to askAssuming she is too young to be just told not to and is just free to roam through your lab, shouldn't you be more concerned about her, I don't know, taking a soldering iron and poking her eye out or something? Well, unless you have all of that already covered, of course... Still kind of a weird question to ask, though. Maybe just unplug it or use a switched power strip when you're not using the thing?

author: jerry507
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2013, 10:12:57 pm
content: The floor plan of my rental house doesn't easily allow my main desktop computer to be in my workroom, so that's all downstairs on a high bench that she can't get to.Normally I don't particularly care that she turns it on and messes with it, she's very very interested in it which is great. I'm just concerned about any damage to the phosphor that may occur if the beam is left focused on a point for a reasonably extended period of time. That isn't a normal operating mode for an oscilloscope. If it turns out to be a problem, I'll unplug it. The question is, is it really a problem? A good question for a forum where people know some very esoteric things

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2013, 10:22:20 pm
content: I think the finder just clamps the supply voltage, so unless it's bright enough to cause a screen burn I can't see a problem.XY mode would be more of an issue

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2013, 10:30:29 pm
content: I thought most scope beam finders had a very blurry focus - at least that was my experience...

author: aargee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2013, 11:16:21 pm
content: Ahh young children (I assume).I remember the day my son found the power door lock switch in the car and did some long term stress evaluations on the door actuators, until the circuit breaker went. He was then locked in the car, the door key switches also relied on the electric lock actuator (probably an accounting over engineering design), it was almost to the break the glass to get in point when the CB reset itself, whew - yes a thermal CB.I agree with Mike, I think the beam find won't cause burn in, unless she sits there for a few days holding it down.

author: jerry507
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 03:34:15 am
content: Awesome. I just switched it to auto trigger so if she leaves it on I can see so and won't worry about it. Children are awesome, but they really do expose all sorts of issues you never really thought of before... Thanks guys!
UNI-T 512 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: trevwhite
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 09:12:48 am
content: Does anyone own a UNI-T 512. Are they any good?ThanksTrev

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 06:28:13 pm
content: I have the UT513 and I am happy with it. Dave did a video here on one of these models too.

author: trevwhite
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 07:03:05 pm
content: yeah, I did see the video. I do not know how much different the 512 is. I wondered how reliable and true to their specification these units are.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 08:52:17 pm
content: The differences are in their highest voltage range.
Agilent DSO1022A XY mode bug - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2013, 10:21:02 pm
content: Well, this bug might be well-known, but i did not find it anywhere. I found this scope at school. The XY mode contains a bug, (or is it a weird design choice??) The lissajous figure gets deformated. There is no notice in the user manual.The scope has firmware 011.04.00.04.02Is it fixed in later firmware?http://www.home.agilent.com/agilent/software.jspx?ckey=1697212&lc=eng&cc=CZ&nid=-34250.884295&id=1697212It is not mentioned in the changelog.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2013, 10:25:52 pm
content: Moreover, according to the user manual, there should be no cursors in XY mode. But they are there. That's strange.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2013, 06:58:31 pm
content: Does this Lissajous figure deformation also appear at Rigol DS1000 series? What do you think about it?
Prologix GPIB<->Ethernet converter disappears from network - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: awallin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 10:41:57 am
content: Hi all,I'm using a Prologix GPIB<->Ethernet converter to read a HP53132A frequency counter.The prologix is accessed over telnet, and I'm using a python script to read/write GPIB commands.Most of the time everything works ok, but every once in a while I need to interrupt the measurement, and sometimes this causes the prologix to completely disappear from the network!?No more telnet access to the IP of the Prologix.nmap also shows the IP of the Prologix has disappeared.I have to reboot the Prologix to get it to work.This has to do with changing input signals on the HP53132A, and it usually gives errors GPIB-410 (query interrupted) or GPIB-420 (query unterminated).The GPIB errors I can deal with, but the Prologix IP-address completely disappearing is not acceptable.Anyone encountered something similar?Anders

author: JackOfVA
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 12:49:51 pm
content: Never had a problem like that with my Ethernet Prologix adapter. I've had a similar problem with USB-based Prologix board where my EZGPIB software freezes due to a programming error I've made and I have to use Windows Task Manager to force EZGPIB to close - in those cases I believe what happens is that the forced close leaves the USB port / Prologix in an unknown state and causes Windows to remove the port. Fortunately that happens rarely. But so far I've not seen it with the Ethernet version.You should ask Prologix the question - my experience is that Prologix's owner, Abdul Nizar, is extremely good in responding to customer questions. I've been a Prologix customer since their first adapter board and have four or five around the shop now.Jack
Evershed & Vignoles ohm meter (bond tester) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2013, 02:35:56 pm
content: I got this Evershed 7 Vignoles ohm tester on ebay. It measures from 0 to 0.1 ohms full scale. A 1923 design that was still being made into the 60's I think this one dates from 1949 as 49 is stamped into the inside of the case.Absolutely no electronics here just pure electro-mechanical.The meter is of the free floating type and has two sets of coils on the movement, it measure opposing currents in effect.The unit came without probes so I had to make them up from brass rod and file handles, there should be resistances in the probe handles but as these are only micro ohms an would vary according to the length of the leads which could be over a 100 feet yes thats right how else could you measure the resistance of an airplane's frame, I left them out of my probes.The unit was run on an alkaline accumulator originally but works quite well from a D size alkaline battery. Not sure for how long as the current is fairly high but long enough.Other than the probes I did not have to do much other than take it apart for a clean and to wax the wood work.According to the sticker it was last calibrated on 7th October 1997 and was due for re-calibration exactly a year later, not sure of the accuracy now as I have no way of testing anything with so low a resistance and do not have any resistances that low.

author: Napalm2002
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2013, 02:42:25 pm
content: Cool old stuff

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2013, 02:42:57 pm
content: Here are some more photo's, as if you weren't bored enough by the first ones.

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2013, 02:48:51 pm
content: While trying to find out about the probes for this i came across this web site and as it turns out the man that runs it is only about 12 miles from me.http://www.richardsradios.co.uk/bonder.html

author: mamalala
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 15, 2013, 04:57:01 pm
content: Quote from: G7PSK on October 15, 2013, 02:35:56 pmNice unit!What about a current shunt for testing? Those are usually in the mili-Ohms range.Greetings,Chris
Rohde & Schwarz FSH3 Spectrum Analyzer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: eurofox
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 14, 2013, 11:37:44 am
content: Hello Spectrum analyser freaksSomeone have experience with this unit with tracking generator?Thanks in adance for your inputeurofox

author: 1design
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2013, 01:23:44 pm
content: I used it as a SNA for filters etc. at my previous job, it worked fine, but the user interface was a bit clumsy.B.R.

author: Mr Simpleton
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 14, 2013, 02:06:06 pm
content: Quote from: 1design on October 14, 2013, 01:23:44 pmI must say this is a slight understatement! The UI makes me shiver! It seems I can never get to like the FSH3 despite it has portability and nice specsThen we have the optical RS-232 connection and the software... Yuk!