hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Rambling teardown - an old HP 606A sig gen - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 06:33:19 pm
content: http://everist.org/NobLog/20140324_HP_relics.htmThe 606A pics are at the end. Sorry about the long-winded lead-in.The unit will be going on .au ebay later today. Need to sleep now.Probably start it at $10, since I really just want to get rid of it (and hope it finds a good home.)

author: Mr Simpleton
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 07:13:48 pm
content: Way cool!I got a 606B and 608C in the basement.... not sure if I ever will get round to "use" them but still good to know they are thereEven fround a 650A, not sure where it came fromStill those boxes gives a warm and fuzzy feeling!BTW the gear in my 606 seems to have gummed up a bit too... so have to give it a treat with WD40.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 07:22:00 pm
content: Would love it, but the postage...... OUCH!

author: dc101
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 02:02:05 am
content: Very nice, you really have to appreciate gear that uses the term cycles instead of hertz.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 04:51:09 am
content: A lovely piece of living and working history, hope you get a good price and it another good home.

author: alex.forencich
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 05:04:26 am
content: Quote from: dc101 on March 25, 2014, 02:02:05 amI dunno, this is me whenever I see KMC:

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 05:18:15 am
content: Quote from: alex.forencich on March 25, 2014, 05:04:26 amThat head banging looks like it hertz.The 606A is listed now.http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=191113749892

author: N2IXK
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 05:58:27 pm
content: I've got one of those things in my shop, and they were really top-notch stuff in the day. The main knob has the same feel as a really high-end communications receiver. Very clean output, and good stability once warmed up.Unfortunately, they are huge, heavy, use lots of power, and give off a lot of heat. The huge and heavy part can be dealt with by rackmounting it, rather than the using the standalone "portable" cabinet.

author: dc101
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 10:06:30 pm
content: Quote from: alex.forencich on March 25, 2014, 05:04:26 amI once saw a guy wearing a t-shirt that said RHCP, and I thought "WOW! That's so cool that guy likes SHF and satellites!" Turns out he was just a fan of Red Hot Chili Peppers

author: N2IXK
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 10:12:08 pm
content: Quote from: alex.forencich on March 25, 2014, 05:04:26 amWhat about micromicrofarads?
Fluke 87v - place to get it in the US? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: daemonix
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2014, 12:22:20 pm
content: Hi, Im looking to get a new 87v.Where do you think I can get it for the best price in the US? (from an official source so my warranty will be ok!)Thanks!

author: Pasky
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2014, 12:31:51 pm
content: Got mine fromhttp://www.tequipment.net/with the EEVBlog 6% discount, came with a free big to hold it also. Doesn't getting any cheaper, unless you want a used one.

author: daemonix
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2014, 01:56:06 pm
content: thanks a lot! (it seems a bit less than Amazon.com @ 347$)
Multimeter UNI-TREND    UT 51 resistor R2 replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: vamakoda
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 10:28:33 am
content: hi allI need to replace resistor R2 , in my UT 51 multimeter, but color codes have been burnt, I cant read its exactly valueI need any one to give me value of resistor R2 , so that I can replace it. I have attached an image for more explanation.Note:i have put red circle around resistor R2.thanks for your time

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 01:59:58 pm
content: 10k ohm = R2.http://elektrotanya.com/PREVIEWS/38933510/23432455/egyeb/multimeter_ut51_sch.pdf_1.png

author: vamakoda
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 03:07:31 pm
content: thanks very much for the info... Its great...

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 04:54:59 pm
content: If the meter suffered an overvoltage condition, you might want to check R1, the PTC. I'm guessing it should read around 1k ohm.
Source of UT61E Multimeter USB version (not Serial version) ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Chendy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 01:35:46 pm
content: Hello all,I read on a discussion here that this popular cheap multimeter has been seen with found in a direct USB version (the standard version requires a USB to Serial converter). The thread mentioned Dinodirect, but I examined the various listings for UT61E and all sellers only supplied the standard serial version..... was wondering if anybody has bought a USB version recently?Also, I haven't come across any pictures of this version of the UT61E, does it even exist?!CheersChendy

author: sync
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 01:43:31 pm
content: The meter itself is the same. Only the interface cable differs. I bought my UT-61E with USB cable here:http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/MzU2OTYxOTk-/Messtechnik_Uhren/Messtechnik/Multimeter/RMS_Digital_Multimeter_UNI_T_UT61E.html

author: Towger
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 01:44:09 pm
content: I think the German version comes with a USB cable, plus other safety improvements:http://www.batronix.com/shop/multimeter/multimeter-ut61e.html

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 01:59:58 pm
content: The GS version is quite different from the original:Modified PCB for enhanced safetyUpgraded 600V fusesReduced CAT rating (CAT III 600V CAT IV 300V)USB cable

author: Owen
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 07:41:22 pm
content: Quote from: Wytnucls on March 24, 2014, 01:59:58 pmNo, they've downgraded it to CAT II 600 V and CAT III 300 V...

author: notsob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 09:14:55 pm
content: Frankie can get you the USB cable for UT61E, [ilovelectronics on this forum] send him a PM

author: Chendy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 09:25:28 pm
content: Cheers guysso the Uni-T 'USB Interface Cable' is a 'UTD04'"The GS version is quite different from the original"was wondering about about versions, is the latest version the best? Is there any way to work out which version a supplier stocks, without asking them directly?
TLA704 - Needed Support Files - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: bench_knob
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 02:28:53 am
content: Hi All,I recently learned that Tektronix Corp developed (cca 1998ish) serial bus decoding software modules for the TLA704 Logic Analyzer. I have been able to identify a couple of the names of these files. I have looked around quite a bit for these but have been unable to locate them.The SW files I am looking for are:TMS03JM (V4.0 or better) - Serial Microprocessor Support, andTMS08JM (V1.0 or better) - I2C Microprocessor SupportTMSxxJM (V1.0 or better) - SPI Microprocessor SupportAny of you TLA704/714 scopers out there perchance have a copy ya can spare? Please PM me, thanks.bench_knob

author: TiN
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 06:58:30 am
content: Not what you ask, but I did found some pieces of code to decode SPI and I2C on web before, andtuned it to work fine on my 714 with 7AA4http://dev.xdevs.com/issues/980- I2C modulehttp://dev.xdevs.com/issues/981- SPI moduleWorks fine for me, but provided AS IS. I use it on TLA Application 6.1Source code there too, so you can modify for your particular needs.

author: bench_knob
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 09:41:26 am
content: Quote from: TiN on March 23, 2014, 06:58:30 amHi TiN,Re; SPI & I2C .dll & .tla serial bus lib software+src:Thank you very much. Well it seems I'll be testing them on V5.1 via my TLA-704 and TLA7M3 module, I'll post the results when I get the Win2k Pro (SP4) connected to my InterNet (one port 'router') and switch with my WinXP Pro (SP3) laptop.bench knob
Good probe for noise and ripple? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: AlanR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 09:32:46 pm
content: I just recently threw down $1000 for a Cal Test CT3688 active differential probe. Here is the datasheet:http://disti-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/straightroadelectronics/files/datasheets/2023.pdfYou guys think I should have went with a different probe that may be better? I have searched, but the others had worst specs than this one.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 09:41:42 pm
content: Isn't that 10X attenuation going to hamper seeing low level signals? Even if your scope has 0.5mV/div that will be 5mV/div after the probe. Is that going to work for you?

author: AlanR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 09:47:26 pm
content: I can send it back. I need one that has low noise and low offset errors with 1% or better accuracy. I have a $3000 budget for one. If push comes to shove I'll just build a differential amp front end.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 09:57:04 pm
content: There are some nice units here

author: AlanR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 10:09:11 pm
content: THANKS!! I have decided on the SIM910 preamplifier. Looks like it is time to send back the differential probe.EDIT: eehhh, only 1 MHz bandwidth.

author: w2aew
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 12:45:01 am
content: If you have a late model Tek scope that uses the Tek-VPI probe interface, the TPP0502 is a 500MHz, passive probe that is only 2X attenuation - really nice for these types of measurements.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 12:56:14 am
content: How about not using a probe and feeding the signal through a BNC or SMB connector directly into the scope?
Agilent 2000x Serial function LED does not light - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: KD0RC
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 04:31:45 pm
content: I am getting along very well with my new Agilent DSOX 2022A, but I noticed that when I do serial decode, the little LED next to the Serial button does not light up when I press the button (FW Version 2.36). Digital, Math and Ref all light appropriately. The LED is functional, because it lights up during the scope boot-up process and also lights up correctly during the front panel LED test process. I assume that this is just a minor firmware error, but wanted to see if others see the same thing, and wonder if those on v 2.35 and earlier see it as well.

author: georgd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 05:21:54 pm
content: On my DSOX3032 also does not lit serial LED!FW is 2.36 downgraded to 2.35.Georg

author: FFFF00
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 05:23:02 pm
content: I was confused by this at first. How I see it the LEDs next to those buttons lights up when the knobs are active for a certain function. The serial decode doesn't use the knobs so the LED never lights.This is also why even if you are using the digital, math, and ref functions at the same time there will only be one LED turned on, the one where the controls are currently active. At least this is how it works on the DSOX 3000 scopes with firmware v2.36.

author: MarkL
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 05:23:42 pm
content: I noticed that too on an X3104. I asked Agilent about it and they said the lights indicate when the position and scale knobs to the right are active.The serial decode traces are fixed in position and the knobs don't do anything, hence the serial light never comes on.Not very obvious, IMO, but it's purely cosmetic.

author: KD0RC
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 05:32:38 pm
content: Quote from: FFFF00 on March 23, 2014, 05:23:02 pmMakes sense - that is probably the answer. I fooled around with it and you are right - only the one with the active control is lit.I think it shows the design process. The light for the active function is initially designed in, then as the FW evolves, the decision is made to only light it for the function with an active control. Might need a new term here; perhaps 'Vestigial LED'.

author: KD0RC
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 05:36:32 pm
content: Quote from: MarkL on March 23, 2014, 05:23:42 pmThanks for the corroboration of FFFF00's response. I agree, it has no operational affect on the instrument at all.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 05:46:06 pm
content: At my DSOX2002A the Serial LED also does not glow. This is normal.

author: AndyC_772
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 06:37:04 pm
content: Confirmed on my MSO-X3054A too. Personally I think it's stranger that the serial decode display can't be moved, than that the LED doesn't come on.
Anyone ever cal'd an EX470? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: alexwhittemore
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 03:54:09 am
content: Or in my case, it's actually a rebrand, Craftsman 82334 (in fact, the Extech is a rebrand too). 'Course, it's a crap meter in the first place. But better an accurate crap meter than a useless one! It's got 4-5 pots on the PCB and I can't find a procedure anywhere for which to fiddle with. I'm guessing a service manual doesn't even exist.

author: kc9qvl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 12:55:02 pm
content: Just send extech an email and they will send the calibration procedure. It worked for me. on my 410 and 520.From extech faqQuote

author: alexwhittemore
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 05:06:54 pm
content: Not sure how I missed that searching, thanks a bunch!
HP 1653B noisy floppy drive - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: lars915
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 12:57:53 pm
content: Since Dave inspired me to tear this thing apart, figured I post the question here. I have a newly acquired HP 1653B logic analyzer. The disk drive is noisy as hell, turns out the head assembly was skipping on the lead screw of the head positioning servo. I cleaned the head and lead screw, which helped greatly, but I still get some skipping when the drive initializes with the head all the way towards the cener of the disk.My question is: is this normal? It's been so long since I've used the old HP stuff I don't remember what the drives sound like.Question 2: Does anyone have these disk drives avaialble, or make a replacement/mod?

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 01:24:46 pm
content: Has the disk drive got a HP part number on it?

author: lars915
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 02:45:59 pm
content: Didn't see an HP number, but it does have a Sony number MP-F52W-30.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 03:30:55 pm
content: I've got a TEAC FD-05HF, which looks very similar but possibly has a different connector on the back

author: lars915
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 27, 2014, 12:29:00 am
content: Well, after getting a few minutes to tear into it, a good cleaning seems to have fixed it. Thanks for the replies!
RIGOL DS2202 - Worth upgrading to 56Mpts? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: sebmadgwick
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 05:54:04 pm
content: I've just ordered aROGOL DS2202A-S 200MHzfrom rigol.co.uk (with discount price) and opted for the standard 16Mpts. I was tempted by the56Mpts upgrade. I understand the difference but it seems like one of those things that if I don't buy it I won't miss it; but if I did buy it I would find it invaluable.I wondered if anyone could share any examples where the extended memory has been of real use? (I mainly work with microcontrollers and digital electronics)

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 09:40:30 pm
content: There is a hack. But the deeper memory makes the segmented memory much more useful.

author: Gallymimus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2014, 05:12:54 am
content: this is a hard thing to answer depending on what you "might" use the scope for.For serial work, with long records more memory is awfully nice.

author: Mark_O
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2014, 07:00:58 pm
content: Quote from: Gallymimus on March 22, 2014, 05:12:54 amThis is true! Also, if you need or want to capture at high sampling rates, then the extra depth translates into more detail and ability to capture longer acquisition intervals. Definitely a big plus.
Agilent E4406A - opt 300 - DIY Cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2014, 06:45:20 am
content: I have a used Agilent E4406A , and would like to install opt-300 (321 Mhz LO out)"The Option 300 provides a 321.4 MHz output from a rear-panel BNC connector."There is/was a retrofit kit , but i'd like to make a DIY cable , as the price usually more than doubles when i get it to DK.http://cp.literature.agilent.com/litweb/pdf/E4406-90104.pdfMy challenge is to find the crimp connector for the "board end" , the other is just a BNC.I'll use some RG-316 and expect to be able to "crimp it" without a specialized crimp tool.After searching a bit on the net i found this :http://g4guo.blogspot.dk/2013/07/agilent-e4406a.htmlQuoteBut no PN or other hints are given.In the retrofit pdf Agilent mentions that the connector is locked once it's installed , so i guess there is some kind of lock ring on the connector.If anyone knows the type of connector Agilent uses , and could come up with an url to a shop , or even better an *bay seller (better due to shipping/minimum order).It would help me and others a lot.For now i don't even have any idea if it's a male or female that should be used , i think a femaleTIA/Bingo

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2014, 06:56:53 am
content: I have added two picts from my initial inspect.I suppose the connector has to go into the "empty plastic" hole , besides the hardline connector already installed./Bingo

author: picburner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2014, 07:26:30 am
content: Hello,the original connector should be like this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARTING-09-14-000-611100-CONTACT-COAXIAL-PIN-50OHM-/171229913143?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item27de192037but I have used this removing the original black plastic clips and it works well:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amphenol-Coaxial-RF-Straight-Cable-Plugs-102-920-06-/321087027852?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:IT:3160I lost the automatic graft chance but I do not put and raise the IF card every day!RegardsGiampiero

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2014, 10:03:27 am
content: Quote from: picburner on March 22, 2014, 07:26:30 amThank you , for the pointers.Could you explain what you mean about "automatic graft chance" ?Does it mean that you have to manually connect/disconnect the plug to the A17-Card , if you need to take it out ?I could live with that/Bingo

author: picburner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2014, 11:39:09 am
content: Yeah, I meant just that.Giampiero
Dual PSU for +/- dual rail - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: djm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 01:16:55 am
content: Hi,First time poster, long time readerI have a Tenma 72-10505 dual PSU (triple if you include the fixed +5VDC) and would like a +15v / 0v / -15v supply. Are the halves of the PSU independent enough to connect one's +ve output to the other's -ve and GND to use as the 0v reference?Thanks,Damien

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 01:00:01 pm
content: Usually it's okay to connect the outputs in either series or parallel, but you'll have to check the manual to be certain.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 01:08:14 pm
content: You have a button to put them in series (if the rails are equal), so you don't need to actually connect them externally.Please note that there is something weird with the 5V, I think it is connected internally somewhere? Anyway I have one of this power supplies at work, sometimes I imagine taking it on a boat a throwing it in the sea. It is horrible.

author: djm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 11:14:09 pm
content: Thanks for the reply. Could you tell me what is so horrible about it?

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 12:00:54 am
content: First, it makes awkward noises when you press a button. You can turn it off, but only on one side of the PSU.Then, Im testing my prototype silently, everything goes well, then from the side of my eyes I see that the firs character of the current measurement jumps a big number, and I almost got a heart attack, that my stuff (power electronics) is going to blow into my face. Oh no, it only glitch-ed. And it does it every now and then.And it is with a fan. Makes noise. We have PSUs with higher current rating which are silent.You dont have separate knob for the current and the voltage. And the list goes on.
0-30V, dual rail, current controlled, AC / DC bench supply.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Big Ron
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 01:41:42 pm
content: Hi,I'm looking for a 0-2.5A or so, 0-30V dual output AC / DC power supply. I seem to find nothing that'll provide AC/DC switchable outputs..Anyone?Thanks

author: FaultlineAudio
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 02:16:25 pm
content: I have never seen any bench power supply like you describe. For an AC variable power supply I use a BK Precision model 1653.

author: eurofox
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 03:26:07 pm
content: Hi,I have a "power source" AC/DC - V/I 0 to 1100 V but I is limitedeurofox

author: ablacon64
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 05:44:39 pm
content: I guess you need two different tools, a bench power supply and a Variac for AC.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 05:58:21 pm
content: A Kepco BOP supply can do what you want if you also have a signal generator. These are bipolar 4 quadrant supplies that can typically go to about 20kHz sine wave output. These are basically a big op amp that can put out +/- DC in CC or CV. A FG can drive these to get whatever wave shape, frequency, amplitude you want for a AC signal within its capabilities.Hereis a thread about 2 20V 10A units I have. These are EMI units not Kepko but they do the same thing. I just picked up 3 50V 2A units.

author: Big Ron
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 07:14:54 pm
content: I must admit, I figured that's how it'd work (variable-f sine wave generator, and an amplifier, current limit on the amp rails), but was rather hoping to find one "in a box" design.Is a current limiting AC supply for testing things such a "weird" requirement?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 07:46:07 pm
content: These things are very versatile. DC power supply with down programming, E load, amplifier that can do DC also. A very under appreciated bit of kit. But they are noisy
Fluke owns yellow and gray? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: rix
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 06:30:35 pm
content: I thought this might be of interest....http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2014/03/trademark-issue-will-cause-30000-worth-of-multimeters-to-be-destroyed/

author: Len
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 06:32:06 pm
content: already multiple threads on this in General Chat
Agilent DSO1052B + TEKTRONIX - TDS1001C-EDU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2013, 09:09:53 am
content: I was looking at Farnell and saw this from Agilent:http://uk.farnell.com/agilent-technologies/dso1052b/oscilloscope-50-mhz-2-channel/dp/2094428at 510 UK poundsand the Tektronixhttp://uk.farnell.com/tektronix/tds1001c-edu/oscilloscope-40mhz-2-ch-500ms-s/dp/1877497at 530 UK pounds.Considering the OWON SDS7102V costs around 400 UK pounds, has anyone here tested or used the Agilent or Tektronix to tell us of its quality?

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 20, 2013, 11:57:16 am
content: I wouldn't recommend either. The Agilent is a rebadged version (with some minor firmware changes) of an older Rigol scope, and is manufactured by Rigol. Might as well buy the Rigol DS1000E series, then. The TDS1000 series is a rehash of the twenty year old TDS-200 series. Its 2.5 kpoints of memory is several orders of magnitude below the current standard (1+ Mpoints). Quality is OK, but specs are just not at all competitive anymore.Both are way overpriced for what they offer, in my opinion.

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2013, 12:14:00 pm
content: Ah, I did not know all that. I thought that "Agilent" and "Tektronics" meant "instant quality".

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2013, 06:07:10 pm
content: TDS1001C-EDU is OK for simple measurement at school (8 hours usage per day), but not suitable for a serious hobbyist.

author: Galenbo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 02:20:20 pm
content: Quote from: akis on March 20, 2013, 12:14:00 pmI own a Rigol, it was this forum that made me decide to buy it. I'm very satisfied with it, so if now Agilent and Tektronics rebadge that, they indeed sell quality products.
Micronta 22-121 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: staze
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 08:34:57 pm
content: All,Here's a blast from the past. I picked up a Micronta for dirt cheap on fleabay (like, $10). I wanted a cheap dual rail PSU. Heck, even if I went to build one, the transformer would cost more than $10!I'm ordering some 10turn pots for the voltage adjustment (since the current single turns are useless), but one thing that I'm curious about is I can't get the tracking aligned. There's a trimpot internally that's 2k, but it's hard against one direction, and the voltages are still about 0.1V off. I'm attaching the schematics... but I'm curious if anyone has any simple ideas. Maybe whacking in a 100R resistor on one side of VR3?Anybody got one of these? I looked for anyone hacking one into something better, but couldn't find anything. Obviously I could just forget tracking, and manually align both sides with the 10 turns, but that defeats some of the sexiness of a dual power supply. And yes, I know, I should just buy a modern PSU that does this kind of stuff... but where's the fun in that? =D
Nippon Audio Response Checker RC-1 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: HighCtenor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 02:08:18 pm
content: Hello EEEV members,I am trying to find out about sourcing a Nippon Audio Response Checker RC-1 from somewhere...if possible in Europe. This an inexpensive frequency response checker which allows the use of a calibrated microphone. It is generally used for audio applications to test speaker frequency response. If someone knows about this or if there is a teardown somewhere let me know.HighC

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 02:14:14 pm
content: That looks like a cool device. I bet it is from the 80s. The same thing today can be done much better with software. Get yourself a XLR-USB adapter and a program like Visual Analyzer and get much better results.
Hakko T14 (936) tips - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: staze
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 09:45:40 pm
content: Anyone know where to get tips for the Hakko 936? I just inherited one, and the tip is in a bad way... would like to replace, but all I can seem to find are cheap chinese versions.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 10:45:59 pm
content: 936 uses 900m tips, you get them for nicels at ebay, and I guess they should be good enough.T18 is the name of the 888 tips, T14?, what is that?

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 10:51:58 pm
content: The FX-888 tips are compatible with the Hakko 936 tips. There's maybe just a few mm difference in the length (in real world, maybe the temperature would get get offset by a few degrees C)These should be original Hakko:https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10721https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10720https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10719This ebay seller (who claims to be authorized Hakko distributor - you can check on Hakko website when it works) has several other models along with the 936 tip code they replace in the title of each listing:http://stores.ebay.com/NEI-Lamps-and-Electronics/HAKKO-SOLDERING-TIPS-/_i.html?_fsub=4&_sid=82105093&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

author: Nerull
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 10:54:29 pm
content: Which tips you use depends on the hand piece - there were a few available for the 936. The most common was the 907 which takes 900M series tips, which have been replaced by the T18 series tips used by the FX888 - Hakko doesn't list them as compatible but they are essentially identical and lots of people use them.

author: staze
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 10:55:40 pm
content: Quote from: mariush on March 19, 2014, 10:51:58 pmHuh. Hakko says to use T14 tips (https://www.hakko.com/english/n2system/connection-method-03.html)... didn't know the T18 was compatible.Cool... T18's are easy to find.

author: staze
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 10:56:19 pm
content: Quote from: Nerull on March 19, 2014, 10:54:29 pmCool. Yeah, handle is the 907... so should be good to go.Thanks!

author: Nerull
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 10:57:42 pm
content: T14 tips are for the 938

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 11:05:29 pm
content: Quote from: Nerull on March 19, 2014, 10:54:29 pmI have used 900m and t18 on the same iron, what's the differece?, only another stamp.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 11:08:21 pm
content: Quote from: Nerull on March 19, 2014, 10:57:42 pmAnd 957 handpiece?

author: staze
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 11:13:04 pm
content: oh, and if you look a different way, you can see the T18 tips are compatible with the 936. Ugh... Hakko needs to fix their site.
Intensity grading - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: mdkendall
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 06:21:15 am
content: I recently bought a Rigol DS1104Z. In general I have been very impressed by the capabilities at the price.While playing around I noticed one interesting thing with the intensity grading. At the outer edge of the trace, where the signal probability is less, the trace fades to black rather than to transparent as it would do on a real analog scope. If traces don't overlap each other on the screen this is an academic distinction, but when traces are overlapping you can easily see the difference.The attached screenshot from the Rigol shows three traces, each of which was a low-amplitude, fairly noisy sinewave. Where the traces overlap you can see an odd black shadowing effect, which is due to the trace "on top" fading to black and being composited over the underlying traces rather than blended with them.As it happens the local Agilent rep was in a few days ago and left a DSO-X 3054A scope with us for evaluation. I thought I would compare the Rigol with it and see how much better the Agilent was. (Second attached picture shows them side-by-side for comparison). To my surprise it appears to overlay the traces in exactly the same way, and it looked no better.So I guess my question is, is this common to the Agilent 2000 and 4000 series as well (I guess it would be since they all use the same MegaZoom ASIC). And has anyone had a chance to see how this looks on the new Tek MDO3000 series?

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 08:41:35 am
content: I think it makes more sense to have the black edges to distinguish traces - probably also avoids unwanted colour mixing to produce false colours at the overlap.One thing the older Agilent 5/6/7000's do is that when you use the Y shift control for a channel, it pulls that channel's trace to the front.
DMM UNI-T UT71C - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Analogdevice
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2014, 09:12:18 am
content: Hello people,I bought a digital multimeter UT71C for 150€ (ca. 200USD). What do you think about it? Is that machine resistant for higher voltage than 1000V? Or is it trivial "piece of shit"? This DMM wasn´t cheap, so I think that he should withstand. Thank you for your opinion.

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2014, 09:29:00 am
content: Well, UNI-T claims it has a 1000V crowbar circuit, but it was never tested independently. It certainly doesn't comply with the latest safety requirements, because of the lack of 1000V HRC fuses.It is probably safe enough to measure 250V occasionally around the house, but is best used as a bench meter with low power circuits.

author: Analogdevice
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2014, 10:40:27 am
content: For HV I have HV probe to 30kV, so when I need to measure some HV (like CRT circuits on oscilloscopes) I use this probe. DMM I used for low-voltage circuits in electronics, like time-base boards, logic boards etc.If it is only one problem of this DMM, it´s OK then.I like datalogger on this machine and auto-range, I have UT70A too and it´s manual. Som when I measure unknown voltage, I must switch the DMM again and again and it´s annoyingI almost forgot... There is a glass fuses 5x20

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2014, 11:28:41 am
content: I have this meter (bought for around 100 euro new) and it's generally ok. Accuracy is within spec on voltage, current and resistance. Battery life is ok too.As for downsides, the continuity tester is so slow that it's pretty much useless and the capacitance measurement leaves much to be desired too.Not a bad meter after all and generally worth the money but has it's shortcomings.

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2014, 12:00:43 pm
content: What is wrong with the capacitance measurement? Did you find it slow or inaccurate?In case you haven't seen it yet, there is a solution for the slow continuity:

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2014, 06:55:18 am
content: Here is a comparison of capacitance testing between 2 LCR meters (Uni-T/CEM) and 3 DMMs (Uni-T, Fluke, Gossen), including a 71D:(Looks all fine to me)

author: anvto
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 02:41:24 pm
content: HelloUT71C comply with CATIV 600/ CAT III 1000 safety requirements.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 05:01:21 pm
content: These meters don't come close to meeting those safety specifications. It may say so on the meter but the internal design and components are not correct.
Fluke 289 Screen Problems - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Waynelangjr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 06:53:20 pm
content: Good afternoon! I have a Fluke 289 true RMS meter and am having a problems with the screens display. The problem I am having is that the LCD seems to be damaged and useless at the moment. I called fluke and they want $222.90 to repair this. I know the part cost must be around 30 dollars. Anyone have any suggestions?

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 06:54:42 pm
content: Quote from: Waynelangjr on March 19, 2014, 06:53:20 pmWhats wrong with buying that $30 lcd ?

author: Waynelangjr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 06:55:37 pm
content: I can't find one! I have no idea where to get one from!
Agilent 54622D schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: eurofox
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 09, 2014, 06:21:47 pm
content: Hi,I'm looking to find the schematic of the Agilent 54622D, I have the service manual but nothing on component level.eurofox

author: tesla500
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2014, 08:24:11 pm
content: I don't think Agilent ever provided that, if troubleshooting determines something is wrong on the main board, the standard procedure is to just replace the whole main board (at almost the cost of the whole scope).
HP E4421B: U13 on the reference board? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2014, 06:30:44 pm
content: I might have an interesting question. I have an HP E4421B which has several defects. One of the problems is that someone removed U13 on the reference board. Does anyone have a closeup of this board? Mike(electricsstuff) did a teardown but I can't see the number on the chip. U13 is in the middle of the large number of tantalum caps on the board.edit: after some probing I managed to figure out it is an LTC1021 10V reference. This is consistent with the marking shown in Mike's video (it says 2110 on the package).
Cheap function generator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Radio Tech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 03:28:47 pm
content: http://www.amazon.com/Function-Generator-DIY-Tech-FG085/dp/B00C5UO8U6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395233159&sr=8-2&keywords=function+generatorCode:Product Features•Generating continuous waveforms of Sine, Square, Triangle, Ramp (up and down), and Staircase (up and down)•Generating user defined arbitrary waveforms (AWG)•Generating frequency sweeping signals of selected waveforms. Start frequency, stop frequency, and sweep rate can be independently set•Generating servo test/control signals in micro-second resolution with user programmable pulse width, amplitude, and cycle•Frequency (period), amplitude, and offset can be incrementally adjusted with rotary encoderSaw this little kit and read a few reviews on it. Searched here to see what others had said but did not find anuthing.Anyone here tried one of these? For a cheap unit for field use may not be bad.

author: calin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 04:31:51 pm
content: I think these are the guys that make the kit:http://www.jyetech.com/Products/085/e085.phpLooks to me like an Arduino based FG (pleanty of projects around the net) with some output buffers added. Max frequency ~ 200Kz .. good enough to play with some servos etc. Really depends what you want to do.
Unit-trend UT60A is UL listed ??? CATIV 600V CATIII 1000V with 250V glass fuses? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: mimmus78
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 16, 2014, 09:51:56 am
content: How is possible it passes UL Listing with 250V glass fuses?*** UL List DATABASE HERE ***

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2014, 10:06:06 am
content: The new requirement for HRC fuses with a voltage rating equal to the highest CAT voltage rating is part of the latest published regulations (IEC61010 part 1).Before that document release, fuses were not part of the regulations, apart from having to be certified by an independent body.

author: mimmus78
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 16, 2014, 03:42:04 pm
content: They are glass fuses not HBC ... I read everywhere that the glass fuses are not good for any CAT III meter or I'm missing something?

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 03:13:22 am
content: As Wytnucls said, the older requirements had a loop hole that let manufacturers make a different voltage spec for different jacks and thus people slipped in cheap fuses and labelled the amp jacks with a lower soec than the rest of the meter. This practice has been disallowed in the current CAT rating requirements but obviously older designs and production runs still exist.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 11:59:14 am
content: Worth reviewing lightages good work:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-list-of-multimeters-that-do-not-appear-to-meet-their-claimed-safety-specs/msg157700/#msg157700

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 08:37:47 pm
content: Quote from: Lightages on March 17, 2014, 03:13:22 amI believe that the edition 2 standard was withdrawn last year - meaning any device on the market in the EU carrying the CE mark should comply to the new standard. If it doesn't, then it is a matter for the local enforcement authority.
UNI-T UT33B $15 Multimeter teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2014, 04:12:33 am
content: UNI-T UT33B MultimeterThere was a UT33D teardown a while back, I thought I'd show the guts of my UT33B.It's not suppose to be accurate or packed with features, just a really handy useable small meter.It's easy to operate, sturdy construction, comfortable to hold and you can throw in the car or the kitchen draw and it's there when you need it.DC Voltage - Range 200mV/2000mV/20V/200V/500V - Best Accuracy(0.5%+2)AC Voltage - Range 200V/500V - Best Accuracy (1.2%+10)DC Current - Range 200mA/200mA/10A - Best Accuracy (1%+2)Resistance - Range 200W/2000W/20kW/200kW/20MW - Best Accuracy (0.8%+2)Battery Test 1.5V/9V/12V (2.5%+2)Input Impedance for VDC ~10MWMax. Display 1999Additional Features: Diode, Data Hold, Display Back light, Low Battery Display.

author: alexwhittemore
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 08:51:13 pm
content: Ha, don't make the mistake of plugging it into a mains outlet on Amps

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 10:26:54 pm
content: I like it for what it is - cheap, small, convenient to not give a feck - I've found those battery test modes on uber cheap meters quite handy as they put a 'typical' load on while measuring. Use a Fluke or bench meter and you have to put a resistor or bulb across the battery to check it.$15 = £10 UK. Yeah I would buy that. You can't have too many meters. I have at least one in each room of my house and in the car. Cheap-arse they may be, but convenient.ETA: The backlight alone is worth £5 of anyones money!ETA2:NO CONTINUITY BUZZER? FFS. That is shite, meter is next to worthless. It appears the UT33C/D models do have the buzzer though.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 10:42:36 pm
content: Quote from: alexwhittemore on March 17, 2014, 08:51:13 pmQuote from: Shock on March 16, 2014, 04:12:33 amDon't make the mistake of plugging it into a mains outlet, full stop!(OK, it may be safe for the wussy mains they use in the USA...)
5uH LISN for Spectrum Analyzer DC EMC/EMI work - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 06:17:02 pm
content: I have a thread in the projects sub-forum, but not sure how many folk visit that forum.Anyhow, the thread is:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/5uh-lisn-for-spectrum-analyzer-emcemi-work/and it's essentially a tekbox based design of their 5uH LISN. All the project details/tech info is in that thread.I ran 20 blank boards and obviously have a bunch of extras. I've ordered and have ALL the components except the box and have them as kits for anyone that wants one. I've already soldered all the SMD parts to the boards so all that is needed is to wind the coils (I provide the wire) and solder them in place along with the other thruhole components. $30 per kit (basically covers my costs) + pack/ship cost.I've run some tests of the unit and the performance is pretty decent all the way out to 200MHz. Dave has a quick review of the actual tekbox unit in one of his videos (emc pre-compliance testing) which shows the basic setup.Anyhow, if you're interested, please visit the other thread and lots of details are there.cheers,george.Hopefully a crosspost is not frowned upon - if so, sorry and feel free to have a mod delete.
Digital Thermometer Suggestions? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: CaptnYellowShirt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 12:20:51 am
content: I'm looking for a temperature standard for my lab. Something with a resolution 0.01C or better.I was wondering if anyone has had a good experience with a specific brand or type of digital thermometer and could pass the suggestion along? Thanks!

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 02:25:01 am
content: What kind of sensor? partial / full Immersion? free air?and what temperature range?

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 03:03:56 am
content: Are you looking for a thermocouple or rtd.

author: CaptnYellowShirt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 06:17:17 am
content: RTD, Partial Immersion, +/- 200C

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 06:43:44 am
content: Control CompanyResolution is 0.0001° · Accuracy is ±0.05°C between 0.0 to 100°Chttp://www.control3.com/4000p.htm^^^includes probe, and is calibrated.here is a simillar rtd variant of ithttp://www.control3.com/6412p.htm

author: CaptnYellowShirt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 06:51:31 am
content: Those are nice thermometers. Good suggestions. Thanks.