Making front panels - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: icon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2012, 08:44:52 pm
content: HiI was fired with enthusiasm to rebuild a power supply I made some years ago, which had the front panel marked with hand-drawn marker pen. The internal wiring was a bit grim too, and there was no indication that it was switched on. Other than the smell of burning.I looked around for a way of making a good looking front panel, and in the absence of anything better I settled on Inkscape and some self adhesive glossy inkjet film. It worked out reasonably well - I'll use it for my next project.Inkscape is reasonably easy to use, but has some frustrating bugs. I spent an evening struggling with a very obscure problem which caused the radial lines to follow a peculiar non-circular path. Turned out to be a bug that has been known about since 2007. The inkjet film is glossy enough that it's hard to photograph, but takes the ink well. It will be interesting to see how durable it is.Since the holes were drilled rather haphazardly by hand, I had to nudge the circles around, but that's easy in Inkscape. I've rewired the insides, so it's a bit neater. Is it just me, or is 80% of the time (and 80% of the cost) associated with casing the damn thing up?Anyway, I thought I'd show 'n' tell, even if only so someone can tell me of an easier way of doing it.RegardsJohn

author: Mint.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2012, 08:57:53 pm
content: Wow! That looks real neat. Just one question however, how come you haven't got any labels on the potentiometers to know which one is which.

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2012, 09:13:04 pm
content: Nice work!I do something similar by printing on photo paper and covering that with stick-on glossy film, then use 3M 77 adhesive to apply. The graphics are done with Xara, which is a vector-drawing app very similar to Inkscape.I find it easier if I do the design first and print off a draft copy. Affix that temporarily to the panel with glue stick or tape, and use it as a drilling/cutting template. The holes end up being much more accurate that way.

author: icon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2012, 09:27:56 pm
content: Quote from: Mint.Follow the lines from the sockets... I haven't got round to 'calibrating' the divisions yet. I may never.[Edit to add:]Sorry, I should explain - it's an independently variable positive and negative supply with a fixed 5V thrown in for good measure. The two columns marked 'VAR' are just connected to either the positive (+1.25-20V) or negative (-1.25-20V). I don't know why I gave them two sockets each; I imagined it would be useful, but it never has been. There's no current limit (which is what you might have been thinking). The pots control either the +ve or -ve supply. I should have done a little 'jog' around the +5V socket at the top, because that's fixed, of course.Now you can see why I want a 'proper' bench power supply.Quote from: ModemHeadI'll do it that way for the next project. The holes on this were drilled about 15 years ago, so too late!RegardsJohn

author: Mint.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2012, 10:35:58 pm
content: Quote from: icon on April 13, 2012, 09:27:56 pmOhh thats smart! Awesome job!

author: steve_w
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2012, 12:34:39 am
content: Nice job, I use Visio Pro, it is an excellent scaled drawing package for a non mechanical person like me. I don't get results like that though have to investigate the paper.My mate just got a good CNC so we are going to explore Aluminium that has been milled. That has been the professional standard for military stuff for years.Looks good and is durable.regardsSW