A (long) tutorial on how to make pro grade audio cables. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: funkyant
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 10:36:17 am
content: I also linked and gave a shout out to Dave's unbeatable multimeter reviews at around the 6 minute mark.Honestly, my blog wouldn't exist without Dave's passive guidance. I've learned so much from EEVBlog with regards to how to produce nerdy content. Thanks buddy

author: funkyant
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 10:37:46 am
content: Ps, Dave. The YT autoembed code has been updated to parse https and a few other things

author: PeterFW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 11:13:55 am
content: A bit long, have not watched it entirely but i have to nitpick at something...The title says pro grade but you are using the worst kind of 1/4 TRS connector you can get.I do not trust those things a bit, they are crap and will fail at the worst possible time.Proper ones cost a furtune but are worth it in the end.

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 11:23:34 am
content: Yours is the first good video I've seen on this topic, good job demonstrating proper technique, nice presentation aside from a few points your camera AF focused on your bench instead of the subjectTo nitpick, you tin the whole exposed shield at the XLR terminations, which as you said makes it harder to solder into the cups - I only tin what is actually going into the cup which leaves the exposed shield flexible. I heatshrink over the exposed shield and additionally heatshrink over the top of the solder cup joints.

author: funkyant
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 11:28:06 am
content: Quote from: PeterFW on February 25, 2015, 11:13:55 amHey Pete,I did state that I just used some locally supplied jacks to demonstrate the method, and pretty clearly said that Neutrik is the way to go

author: funkyant
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 11:31:32 am
content: Quote from: RobertHolcombe on February 25, 2015, 11:23:34 amYes, I know a lot of people do this, however in a very busy rental department over a few years, I found that the trade off with the extra tinning on the shield, helps to stop the 2 signal wires ripping out over time, because of the increased rigidity. But you MUST make sure that the shield has an excellent joint to the bucket - hence the 'pull test'!

author: nitro2k01
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 12:46:06 pm
content: At about 22 minutes, I'm noticing something that is perhaps a good idea to include in good cable prep. Split and twist the shield so it's on the right side of the conductors already at the prep stage. As it were there, you had to twist the cable to connect the shield to the right terminal. The extra stress that puts on the cable might be negligible, but you might just as well get into that habit.

author: Radio Tech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 02:16:39 pm
content: I watched the whole video. It’s a snow day today so had the time. We don’t get much of the white stuff here so when we do it shuts everything down.I been making cables like this and similar for over 30 plus years. I can say I would have not done it much differently than you did. I am a quality engineer for a manufacturing facility here so the only thing I would had suggested was step up your inspections. In our business we may run 5 to 10 critical parts and then inspect the lot. Saves a tremendous amount of rework.I see this from suppliers that may send in a 100 piece order to find them all incorrect several times a month. Being it a simple wire harness, weldment or even a 2000 dollar controller with incorrect revision software in it. This is mostly because they set their inspection point for 1 out of 100 and they happen to get one right.No problem with the length of the video. You cannot teach some things in minutes. Detail is important.Over all good job.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 09:06:22 pm
content: I was somewhat surprised that you didn't shrink over each terminal individually, if not just for a little more mechanical stability.

author: PeterFW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 09:27:20 pm
content: Quote from: funkyant on February 25, 2015, 11:28:06 amIf that is the case, everything is allright, as i said, i had not watched the whole videoI can not count the number of connectors i have soldered

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 03:25:52 am
content: Clear heatshrink over labels? Genius! It's the simple things; thank's for the tip mate.

author: jh15
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 04:07:16 am
content: I've been waiting forever to get the vaporware cable labels for my Epson smartphone coupled label printer. Amazon even emailed me if I want to cancel the order because of delay.I have used clear heatshrink over avery labels when installing a connector, but right now I have on-air studios I need to reverse engineer.Many others have taped or Sharpie labeled with no long term success.Anyone have these? It prints a label, and there is a clear wrap around that goes over the print.

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 04:17:43 am
content: Quote from: Stonent on February 25, 2015, 09:06:22 pmIf your solder joints need individual heat-shrink for "more mechanical stability", then the solder joint isn't terribly good.I've been making cables (mostly XLR) for 50 years much like the technique shown in the video.The video seems a bit long winded for the actual information conveyed.I might have devoted a bit more time to showing how to properly strip various types of cable while avoiding nicking the wires (which can prove fatal over time).

author: Dave
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 06:40:00 am
content: Why do you switch positions of the hot and cold wire sometimes? Are you doing it intentionally to flip the phase of the signal?21:58 - White wire bottom, red wire right.23:05 - White wire right, red wire bottom.You also made this switch twice when soldering the male ends of the cable.Edit: I posted the comment before finishing the video.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 08:42:18 pm
content: Great video. I admit to have skipped over some parts, but I really liked the heatshrink, the glue and the labeling with clear heatshrink. Now, on to buy a decent hot air gun (mine is absolute crap, and I really hate heatshrinking).Thank you!