hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Newb oscilliscope question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: necroscope
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2012, 01:05:03 am
content: Ok since getting my first scope last week A rigol DS1102E,I have what may seem a very silly question,most of my test gear for pcb's and ic's like comparator/logic probe and an old 80's bk precision in-curcuit ic tester require the the pcb to be powered on to perform a test, now i have noticed that the ic's still give a signal to the scope even with the power switched off, Why is this?and when checking digital ic's whilst powered on especially some 256k rams on modern boards the 100mhz scope seems to max out the bandwidth settings without being able to get a decent visible waveform is this because a 100mhz just doesnt cut it or would i be doing something wrong the boards in question are running occilators of around 13,333mhz for logic and 3.57 for audio,The scope seems to work fine for 80's pcb's but i am having troubles once playing with the mid to late 90's gear.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2012, 03:33:21 am
content: My best guess is that the signal it's picking up is EMI from the power lines, etc. Touch the probe with your fingertip and you should get a huge response. The 'scope is a hell of a lot more sensitive than your logic probe.Not too sure about the second problem. Can you elaborate a bit?Oh, and not to be rude, but can youpleasetry to use separate, complete sentences? I did my best to figure out your post and help, but it was pretty hard to read.

author: necroscope
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2012, 04:04:49 am
content: Sorry about that i seperated the questions.In regards to the second question,I guess it may have to do with the auto button on the scope but when i try and aqquire a signal off of a 90's era pcb then i have difficuly in tuning the signal in to get a large image on the screen that i can see clearly before the scope says max/power or time Div,And if i use the auto feature to find the signal it will come up on screen with max bandwidth and the waveform looks no bigger than a fat line with a few blocks sticking out of it,Does this mean i need alarger bandwith to view these waveforms properly or would it be because i do not know how to use the scope correctly yet?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2012, 02:46:59 pm
content: Sounds like you need to learn about triggering. Forget that auto button exists. Watch at least the first several videos by w2aew in this thread.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/oscilloscope-training-class-(long)/msg50100/#msg50100Or go to his YT channelhttps://www.youtube.com/w2aew

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2012, 02:58:50 pm
content: Quote from: necroscope on October 20, 2012, 04:04:49 amthe 1102 (even the modded 1052) has no trouble probing 200MHz except a bit attenuated. what you need is to give more info about your question, such as pictures? or circuit or voltage level you are probing? is the BW limit for the channel turned on? if yes, turn it off.
Newb question about power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: classiphil
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 12:17:07 am
content: Hei,I want to buy this used:https://www.google.de/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwi7qvXuzcDSAhWH2SwKHcJXAdcQFggcMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fuk.rs-online.com%2Fweb%2Fp%2Fbench-power-supplies%2F0218829%2F&usg=AFQjCNGXEbm-h-z_3OcNw9U8hmxRf-o2Fg&sig2=g8jkJRcDbohKEsBw-e2zAQWhy can it handle 240W although it's for 15.5V at 4A MAX?Thanks!

author: jeroen79
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 02:25:42 am
content: The datasheet for the series mentions a powerrating of 66 to 240 Watts.66W makes sense for the PL154: 15V*4A.240W makes sense for the triple output model.So someone misread the datasheet.Or maybe it consumes 240W while delivering 66W.
Newbe Question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Eric1000
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 23, 2022, 08:15:51 pm
content: HelloI am very new to this design platform so please bear with me.Where can I find the schematic and PCB foot for a ZXMS6006DG (https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/ZXMS6006DG.pdf)?Thank you

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2022, 09:41:56 pm
content: What schematic capture program are you using?Just go to mouser.com, search for the part number ZXMS6006DG and click on the "Mfr. Part #" to get to the product page and look for "ECAD Model":

author: Eric1000
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 23, 2022, 10:38:08 pm
content: OK, I have used the Library Loader app in the past. It has always been spot on with its component. So the question is how do I install it so KiCad sees it?Also, how can I make a personal library of parts?
newbe to pcb design software   ---anyone on South Wales UK - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Kesha24
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2016, 02:10:46 pm
content: Just looking for someone in the Cardiff area that would like to put heads together on what software and how top use.I have no problem with circuit design theory / practicalLets see what comesthought I might find or hope to join forces if necessary could go as far as Bristol etc.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 05, 2016, 02:13:10 pm
content: KiCAD is a good start, you could try dip trace but I have given up on them despite buying a licence as I don't think it will ever go anywhere other than a bottomless pit of money. KiCAD has many more developers although also needs much work.

author: Kesha24
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2016, 02:34:43 pm
content: Thanks Simon,if I read that correctly your saying dont bother with Kicad or diptrace. So what does one go for much the same as my summing up on those two software offeringsI for all my projects look at each board with a max of Ics I guess not beig projects but just fed up with vero strip board

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 05, 2016, 02:43:41 pm
content: No KiCAD is your best bet. It will get better and it's usable now. I'm infact using it right now to develop a new commercial product. I think a lot of work has gone into the PCB side recently but the schematic side is still waiting further development but it's ok to use all the same.

author: Wilksey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2016, 02:48:25 am
content: +1 for KiCAD
NewBee VR Drone - receiver cable gone - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: euanw
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 18, 2024, 07:05:45 am
content: Hi I am new to this and have been enjoying learning and flying with a NewBee VR whoop drone. Recently I have noticed that the copper wire receiver cable must of come off. When I look at the circuit board I have no idea where I should solder a new one - any ideas?
Newbie about to drop the gun for an Agilent DSOX2004A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Josh0027
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 15, 2014, 05:17:11 am
content: Greetings! I have been lurking around this forum for more than a month now. I have been researching for a nice oscilloscope as a long time investment and my decision is towards the DSOX2004A.I am a software/firmware engineer and I have started to take interest in micro controller applications, particularly interfacing with sensors. Aside from debugging tools, I feel that I would be needing an oscilloscope to poke around signals.My initial requirement was to have a 70MHz minimum low cost two channel oscilloscope but as my research went by, I started to see the need for a unit that can grow as my skills grow. So I made a decision to get a 70-100MHz scope with four channels and is upgradable (thanks to this forum).My selection started with the Rigol DS1052E, Siglent SDS1072CML, Rigol DS1074Z and the Rigol DS2072A. The DS1074Z is a good buy but the sample speed of 250MS/s when all channels are used is not spectacular. The next was the DS2072A which has excellent features but only has two channels. It was still those two that I was selecting until I got a good deal for the DSOX2004A. It is still more expensive than the DS2072A and I am aware of it's limitations being three years old already. My reasons aside from it being an Agilent:1) I got a nice deal from my supplier, similar to the educational discount years ago.2) It has five years warranty, compared to the Rigol which has three years.3) The unit has upgrade options. I am aware that the Rigol has similar upgrades, has better specifications, and has the existence of the firmware hack but I feel uncomfortable in doing the hack that may lead me to void the warranty.4) It will be my first scope. I feel that Agilent is a respectable brand and investing in it makes some sense.I've gone through most of the threads here about the pros and cons of the DSOX2004A. I just need some more of your thoughts what to expect with this scope.Many thanks!Josh

author: andrewwong2000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2014, 05:41:01 am
content: With the Agilent, the ASIC and software is what you pay (so much more) for.. and it's fast, and much better laid out.Also, if you need software options, there's the bundle offer until 30th September.

author: Josh0027
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 15, 2014, 11:34:01 am
content: Thank you Andrew. I dropped the gun and ordered it. Hopefully it will arrive as soon as humanly possible.Moderators, can you move this to the Test Equipment forum? I think that is the correct forum where I should have posted.
Newbie anti static question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Homer J Simpson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2012, 01:07:50 am
content: I picked up antistatic mats for the workbench and a wriststrap.I tested the grounding leads that came with them and they have the built in resistor.Is grounding them to the ground on a near by power strip ok?I know the neutral is common to this but not sure if it makes any difference.I know a basic question but want to make sure I have it right.Thanks

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2012, 02:35:36 am
content: You want to connect the lead to mains earth.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2012, 02:45:16 am
content: Yes. Wire up a mains plug with a single conductor wire connected to the earth terminal and use that as the ground connection.
Newbie bought a KSGER T12 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rytenuff
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 17, 2022, 02:06:35 am
content: Hello!First off, I consider myself a TOTAL newbie.After doing much reading in these forums, I purchased a KSGER T12 which the controller display says is a 3.1S. I have done all the safety mods suggested re. earthing and modifying the heat sinks.My model has an insulated wire connecting the D2 - pad on the controller (D2 is missing) to a large pad on the PSU. My controller pcb is slightly different than just about every other one shown in these forums. My PSU board is 2.04 black. I have attempted to attach pics.I am wondering why I have this wire and why D2 is missing. I ask as I have not seen this on any other posts/pics.Thank you to anyone who may be able to settle my curiosity/concern.After posting I see that my photo attachments did not post. Maybe I don't have enough privileges. I realise this post is useless without the pics but I am not permitted to delete my post. Sorry!

author: rytenuff
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 17, 2022, 02:48:54 am
content: Controller looks like this :https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/stm32-oled-digital-soldering-station-for-t12-handle/125/(second post down)PSU board looks like this except black:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ksger-t12-stm32-v3-1s-soldering-station/msg2873548/#msg2873548(20200116_122921.jpg.res (1).jpg) Wire is soldered to the pad bottom right corner. Sorry again ! This would not be required if I knew how to post my own pics.)
Newbie clamp meter question? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: uv_man
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 11, 2016, 06:29:34 am
content: Not sure if this is the right place to post a question like this... I'm not exactly a newbie to electronics...just clamp meters. I'm thinking of buying an AC/DC clamp meter and was wondering what happens when you try to measure more current than the meter is rated for....does it just show OL (Overload) on the display. Or is there a catastrophic failure with smoke fire and possible electrocution. This is using the clamp to measure the current...not using probes.I was under the impression that the clamp is really measuring the magnetic field using a hall-effect sensor....and not really transferring electrical energy into the meter, in the case of AC current.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2016, 06:58:29 am
content: HiYes, should say overload or something like that.Yes, you understand how they work. Does the same thing for DC and AC
Newbie Design help  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: CallumEEE
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 13, 2025, 10:22:32 am
content: Hi,Although I went to university for EEE and have made a few home projects for amplifiers, I am yet to do proper power based circuits. I have designed the attached schematic for a redundancy circuit that will load share two 12V PSUs and allow for single PSU operation in case of failure.In terms of general specs, Ideally I would like this to be able to handle 25-30A full load and other than that not much else.My questions/worries are functionality issues and that I have included enough safety systems as ideally this needs to last a long time unattended. I am relatively new to design work so apologies for any obvious mistakes!Any help is greatly appreciated

author: ahsrabrifat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2025, 03:40:52 pm
content: You use 15A fuses on each output branch. Please calculate the total system current and double check if 15A fuse is sufficient or you need a higher value.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2025, 04:04:02 pm
content: I don't know what to say ... you're not monitoring the voltage of either power supply ... if one power supply goes to 14-15v do you switch over?I'd be tempted to just put 8-10 TPS2121 ideal diode switches and join the outputs together .. each of them is good for 4.5A maximum current and switches in less than 0.1ms - yeah the resistance is higher at 56 mOhm typical, but that just means a voltage drop of around 56 x 4.5 = 252mV in the worst case scenario , so you'd have 11.75v at the output if you consume 45A spread across 10 ICs.You can get them for $1.2 each at LCSC :https://lcsc.com/product-detail/ORing-Controllers_Texas-Instruments-TPS2121RUXR_C485916.html?s_z=n_tps2121Texas Instruments doesn't recommend it but mainly due to possibility of having differences in resistance between chips and risk of one chip switching before others which won't happen in your case :https://e2e.ti.com/support/power-management-group/power-management/f/power-management-forum/1037982/tps2121-run-two-in-parallel-to-double-the-current

author: CallumEEE
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 16, 2025, 03:48:12 pm
content: Thank you both for the messages,I believe the IC I was looking to use was not the best solution for the application, I have instead decided to go for an ideal diode, droop share arrangement as below:The two SMPSs on the input have over current and over voltage protections and are well regulated but they they will have two different AC sources so if one fails the output will remain powered, I did have a look at the TPS2121 and they are a nifty little chip! I think the new draft I have created may be better suited to higher power? but please do let me know if I am making mistakesAs for the fuses, they are purely there for protecting the output cables as the PSUs on the front end will protect from any shorts on the circuit. I am thinking of maybe adding TVS protection for the output caps but that may be overkill if I have a regulated supply.Thanks again!
Newbie Equipment question - Tektronix 465B or TM 5xx chassis with modules - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tcnicholas
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 09:56:18 pm
content: Greetings from a 1st post newbie.I've caught the 2 channel music bug and would like to learn more about electronic repair to service some older receivers, amps and speakers I currently own.I'm going to buy some test equipment and was focusing in on Tektronix equipment.There are two directions I'm leaning toward. Either a 465B with supporting individual function generator, DMM (already have a couple), Power supply OR Finding a TM5xx chassis and adding the modules to keep the unit compact.I feel the money may be similar, but mostly concerned about the individual modules as being even more outdated equipment then the 465B. Just in a compact rack. I think the modules would be easier to repair (newbie's point of view) and the 465 would have a better selection of repair info and parts if needed in the future.I'm leaning toward the chassis and the modules for a longer term work space design. Unsure if it really matters or if I'm going in the right direction. Please shed some experienced light on the subject.Thank you in advance,Tom

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 10:06:05 pm
content: TM500 modules are quite hard to repair, especially if you don't have extenders. This goes double for the scope modules, which are also fairly unreliable

author: tcnicholas
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 10:12:20 pm
content: Sounds like the 465B and individual components would be the way to go. I got hooked up on the condensed package.Thanks
Newbie Fading lamp project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Halford
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2014, 10:09:27 am
content: Hi everyone,I'm going to build a small fading color lamp for my kids and as a good newbie I'ld like to see if the idea I got could work or not.I know there are several ways to do it, but this is what I came up with and I'ld like to know if it will work.I'll be using 5050 rgb smd LED that have 6 pin (one package 3 colors all independent), each color use a 20mA. I would like to drive them with a Attiny85. My thinking is that I will put the leds in serial by color and let the Attiny drive 3 NPN transistors to fade the colors. In my mind I should use only 3 pins from the Attiny (one of each color/transistor).There will be not many leds, under 10 and the Transistors I have they are rated up to 200mA, so I should be good on that side. (using 7 leds I should be at maximum 140mA per color, and I don't plan to use them full brightness)Am I on a working path or is it going to be a failure ?Thanks for your inputHal.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 27, 2014, 10:13:29 am
content: How will you fade the LED's ? PWM ? make sure you have enough channels or be prepared to do software PWM. 140mA is ok in principle but what is more important is power dissipation. Work out how much power the transistors will dissipate and check the datasheet. If your switching at a speed this in itself will cause losses in the transistors

author: Codemonkey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2014, 10:16:53 am
content: If your LED's are rated at 20mA max and you're connecting them in series, then they will still only require 20mA per string.Personally I'd use some small logic level MOSFET's for driving them rather than NPN bipolar transistors.

author: Halford
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2014, 10:27:16 am
content: thanks guys,the fading will be slow... kind of a night lamp.I will check power dissipation, I did not think of it at all, thanks for pointing that out.low level mosfet, I'll have to read about it, I don't use mosfet often but to power protect... I know, I'm a newbieI'll do some researchesThanksHal.

author: Halford
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2014, 11:18:17 am
content: so a N-channel Mosfet would be more efficient and will be used exactly as I was planning for the transistors right? I see there are even dual n channel mosfet to save space. Moste of them have higher A values then the transistors, this is always welcome.....

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 27, 2014, 11:37:45 am
content: if your connecting the LED's in series then only one transistor is needed. Yes the mosfet will be more efficient, for starters you don't need to supply it current to turn it on. It just needs to see a voltage and with it's very high input resistance you can turn it on with static!
Newbie Fluke 89IV question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Eleclou
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 03, 2016, 04:38:17 pm
content: HiJust got a Fluke 89iv from ebay. It is in very good condition but I am wondering if it IS 100% OK. I understand I should not get a reading when I short the cables but I am getting these readingsAC V 0-1000= 0.0027 . Wires not touching 0.0140AC V 0mV- 1500mv= 00.17 Wires not touching does not fully settle wanders around 5.900DV V 0-1000 V = 0.0000 Wires not touching 0.0000DC 0mV-3000mV = 0.16 Wires not touching does not fully settle wanders around 0.049Resistance 0- 3000 OHM = 0.13Is this normal and acceptable. Are there any other test I can do.Apologies if this is very silly question.Thanks for your help.Lou

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2016, 06:51:49 pm
content: Quote from: Eleclou on March 03, 2016, 04:38:17 pmYes, it is normal. We usually get this question about once every two weeks. There have been many threads about this, but the latest similar one is here belowhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-289-mv(~)-erratic-open-circuit-behavior/QuoteYes.QuoteCheck to make sure both fuses are good.With the Fluke 89IV, there are two other things to check.1) supercaphttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-189-with-leaking-surface-mount-coin-cell/2) slow settlinghttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-89-iv-slow-settle-in-5v-range/
newbie, from Philippines - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: zirlou21
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 11, 2015, 06:28:41 pm
content: ...Hi there,I'm a newbie here from Philippines...I noticed this forum is 100% similar in format here in the Phils whom I am a member...I gazed upon one of your discussion about Tektronix 2235A scope power problem.,,,and I have that same problem and very frustrating to me that I could not find a decent thread followups regarding my problem in my country(local elex forum)....I'm amazed with the result in your forum that the problem was solve technically, and I was relieved with my problem too,,even though I've not yet continuing troubleshooting my scope.,at least I have solid answer w/ my same problem....thanks very much,,,that's why I did not hesitate to join this forum at once.......PS. I'm an electronic technician by profession, an instructor once in a technical school, I've been a president at once in a local electronic tech assoc.,..right now now I am busy w/ industrial control application doing PLC/DCS,,also very much into microcontrollers...others which involves electronics....Hope you welcome me here...thanks a ...lot

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 11, 2015, 07:56:46 pm
content: Thanks for coming by and signing up. Good luck with getting your 2235A up and running.
newbie, help with datasheet equation  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: inevitski
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 11:24:28 am
content: Hi,I have a question regarding equation I found in a datasheet.I have a problem calculating junction temperature in anIC from linear tech, model number: LT3761the datasheet link:http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/3761f.pdfThe equation is: TJ = TA + [VIN (IQ + fSW • QG) • ?JA]The practical example is:TJ = 85°C + [40V • (2mA + 400kHz • 20nC) • 43°C/W]The sollution offered in the schematic is TJ = 102°C, but I can't figure out how they came up with it,I am still young and very new to this, and would be very gratefull if someone on this forum has thepatience to show how I can solve it properly or point me in the right direction.Thank you,inevitski

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 11:34:24 am
content: Take note of the engineering units 85 + (0.002 + 400000 * 0.00000002) * 40 * 43it comes to 102.2

author: inevitski
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 11:38:03 am
content: Thank you rerouter!inevitski
Newbie Here. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: VapinMason
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 26, 2016, 03:15:49 am
content: Greetings,Been hooked on the EEVblog channel on YouTube. I have always been a tinkerer and as a matter of fact, I had a screwdriver in my hands at 3 years old, tearing down things and putting them back together. PCB design fascinates me, I just love looking a circuit boards and I try to imagine the pixies traveling through all of the traces. I just recently downloaded KiCad and want to start my first project. I want to design a control for capacitance operated touch lights. I have one in my bedroom and has recently stopped responding. The touch control is a TA-306-2 from Chia Chien Electronic Co. Ltd. Where should I start?Joshua T. ClarkVapinMason

author: Athanasis
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2016, 02:53:43 pm
content: Hi I am newbie here too. Just registered but I couldn't find anywhere to stop and say hello world !!!!

author: JPortici
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2016, 03:12:59 pm
content: your degree of knowledge in electronics?the light you want to operate.. is it connected to mains? if soDISCLAIMER: you migh be electrocuted. I deny all responsibilities for anything you might do.Also, if you "modify" your house electric plant your insurance may refuse to pay you in case of an accidentif not, i suggest you download the 100 transistor circuits pdf, you'll find some nice and cheap ideas and tricksthat are intended to work in a circuit operating from a battery, as interfacing with mains need certain requirements such as track clearance, galvanic insulation and something else depending on local laws

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 19, 2016, 03:34:50 pm
content: Quote from: Athanasis on April 19, 2016, 02:53:43 pmHere:New Member, Please introduce yourself

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 19, 2016, 03:45:40 pm
content: Quote from: VapinMason on March 26, 2016, 03:15:49 amFrom your post, I am guessing you are fairly new to electronics - and, in that case, start with circuits that run on 12V or less.As has been said above, there are several very important considerations if you are looking at equipment operating on mains power which include safety to both person and property, insurance and whether connected equipment is compliant with any regulations.Mains is unforgiving when it comes to carelessness or poor design. Don't even try to step up to the plate in the big league if you don't know how to hold the bat. Don't think you have 3 strikes - 1 strike is enough to take you out.This is not to discourage you from having a go - just tackle challenges appropriate to your level of skill.
Newbie in search for oscilloscope and function generator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dog80
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2012, 05:05:23 pm
content: Hello!I am looking for an oscilloscope for amateur/hobby use and I have decided to buy the Rigol DS1052E. Is this a good choice?Also I will probably need a function generator, or an arbitrary waveform generator.My budget for both devices is 600-700€Any recommendations?

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 21, 2012, 07:29:05 pm
content: My advice would be to spend more, much more, on the oscilloscope than the function generator. Yes the Rigol DS1052E is a good buy but I am not sure you can't do better within your budget. I assume you have a couple of decent multimeters first before deciding on a oscilloscope.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 21, 2012, 08:07:08 pm
content: A quick review of a recent discussion here on the forums about the budget scopes that would be in your budget still seem to point toward the DS1052E or DS1102E as one of the best buys. Keep in mind that it appears that no one has easily modded the 1052 to 1102 with the latest firmware.As far as function generators go, a good mid priced analog model around $200-250 will be fine for most purposes. Look for sweep and modulation features.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2012, 08:08:42 pm
content: I have this bundle and am happy with it.http://www.saelig.com/PSBE1002/PSBEBU006.htm
Newbie introduction - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 56split
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 15, 2022, 07:18:06 pm
content: Hello to you all,I am new to the electronics world of repair but enjoy the satisfaction of fixing something and saving it from the landfill.I'm looking forward to reading lots of posts to try and expand my very limited knowledge and experience.Having had a little bit of success repairing a sonos play bar and several washing machine pcb's I'm trying to up my game and repair my fluke 1653 which has had a battery leak and eaten a few components....trying to find some diagrams to identify a few components...any help gratefully appreciated.Anyway, just thought I'd introduce myself,Mike.

author: Ed.Kloonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2022, 07:32:18 pm
content: Hi, Mike.Glad to have you aboard. Enjoy your stay.

author: 56split
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 15, 2022, 08:28:22 pm
content: Thank you ED,I have already found a post by Miele that helped me find the circuit diagram and have found the component values for c332, c372 and R19 which are missing of my tester.and U309, U310 which had a lot of corrosion on them so will get hold of them and see how it goes.Great site.Cheers all.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2022, 11:47:27 am
content: Great to hear your bring white goods back from the grave.I've fixed a loads of dumped dyson cylinders- the new motors are a tenner.Fixing is great!
NEWBIE NEEDS ADVICE - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kcvetteman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 15, 2018, 06:51:17 am
content: For many years I have had the desire to learn electronics but not the time. I now have the time and am looking at pursuing circuit design and programming related to the Arduino and Raspberry Pi platforms.I want to start acquiring testing equipment, but would like some experienced advice as type/brands/models. I have done some preliminary research for some items which are listed below.Adjustable power supply: BK Precision 1550 0-30V 0-3A 120V inputMultimeter: Extech EX330 Auto-rangingOscilloscope: Rigol DS1054ZOther items:Need to know if these will suffice and what other may be needed.Thanks in advance

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2018, 07:04:35 am
content: Do a forum title search for equipment list , tools , electronics lab, and test gear.There's been at least 3 large threads about what to buy when starting out.You don't need the best tools when starting out. But there are a few exceptions like an good scope. The rigol ds1054z is good.A good soldering station as well. It Doesn't need to be super expensive just needs to take good quality tips.Also cheap desoldring braid/wick sucks don't buy it.Buy cheap tools and replace them with good versions when they break or wear out. Often you will use one part in a set a lot more than the rest so cheap sets of things are good when starting out.

author: agehall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2018, 07:05:37 am
content: My advice is to buy a keyboard without caps lock - it will help with your thread titles.In all seriousness, don't spend too much time on thinking about what you need - start with the basics, like buying a few arduino boards and start playing with them. Once you do that, you will realize what you do need. Otherwise you will just buy a lot of stuff that will be sitting on a bench. You can get pretty far with just a cheap multimeter and a few leds and resistors...

author: Naguissa
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2018, 07:16:20 am
content: For this kind of usage a cheap Logic Analyzer may be more usefull than a oscilloscope.Enviado desde mi Jolla mediante Tapatalk
Newbie needs help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TinyBlitzcrank
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 18, 2024, 01:27:57 pm
content: Hello, I'm very new in electrical stuff, when it comes to electronics.I bought a extraction fan for my house (extractor fan details:https://www.systemair.com/en/products/fans/duct-fans/circular-duct-fans/rvk?sku=36095#tech-specs-features)I would like to controle the speed of the motor, in the website i bought the fan from it said it was dimmable, but after searching in the web i found out that i cant simply connect it to light dimmer. In the website of the manufacturer they sell a device that supposedly allows to set the speed (https://www.systemair.com/en/products/fans/accessories/electrical-accessories/speed-controllers/transformers/re?sku=5000) but it only offer 5 speeds and is more expensive than the fan. Also in my search i read that motors with capacitor cant be seed controlled (I don't know if its true).my question is what type of circuit could control the speed, will the speed controller cause the fan life span to be shorter?I found a cheap Chinese speed controller for single phase motor in amazon, but I'm afraid it will hurt the motor of the fan.In the future I would like to be able to control the speed via my Arduino unoI'm grateful for any help or links.

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2024, 05:06:30 pm
content: I think you're out of luck. The specs seems to indicate that you can vary the speed by varying the supplied voltage from 80V to 230V but the power must be sine wave. Any device that lower the voltage by chopping part of the sine wave wouldn't work (like a lamp dimmer).

author: lakis70
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2024, 11:04:42 pm
content: One idea is to use a variac if you have and note which voltages you will use, and order a transformer with some outputs that much your voltages, or a 1:1 transformer and a selector to select some capacitors to have some speeds like some cheap ceiling fans. I have one 30W i dont know if it is much difference for your 160W fan. Also look for the wall selektor for ceiling fans in factories

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2024, 11:19:57 pm
content: "after searching the web"Right.Perhaps it would be better to read the documentation from the manufacturer?They even mention "thyristor control" is OK, aka Triac dimmer.There's 1% correct information on "the web". The remaining 99% is BS. The problem is sorting out the 1%.
newbie needs help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: a11mcr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 02, 2014, 06:56:23 pm
content: hi im looking for some help making a cheap motor control circuitI have a treadmill with broken control board so wanting to make a manual speed control?the motor is rated at 180 VDC 1200W 7A (but works with an 18V drill battery albeit slow) so looking for something I can make/buy to manually regulate the speed?I have seen some on the net but only rated to 500W 4A so could I modify one of these to suit?thanks in advancemark

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2014, 01:33:18 am
content: I second the recommendation to change your thread title to something more specific. The thread title is your sales pitch: you want to draw people in, not have them pass over it without noticing.As to a specific answer, where are you located? Filling in your country would help with more relevant answers.If you happen to be in the USA, then you might consider something like this:http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.htmlThe output by default is AC, but you could theoretically pass that through a bridge rectifier to get DC for your motor. Rectified mains won't get you all the way to 180 V, but 120 V should have the motor turning at a reasonable speed.
Newbie part selection question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: blanning
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 03:46:23 pm
content: I wasn't sure whether to put this here or in Repair. It's a repair. But I know how to repair it. My question is more about selecting the right components.I'm a collector of old computers. And I recently bought an Apple 2c+. It appears that someone spilled something corrosive on the keyboard years ago. And it's led to some damage that I'm trying to fix.The computer works. But since I have plans to replace the video rom chip with a dip socket anyway, I thought I would replace these three components while I'm at it. I think I have the correct parts picked out at mouser. Can someone double-check it for me to make sure I'm ordering the right parts?From the schematic, I'm reading R51 as 18k, R52 as 20k, and C58 as 0.1uF. For R51, the stripes match 18k at 5%. For R52, red, black, orange is 20k. So that looks good. I'm assuming it's also 5%. I'm not sure what voltage or wattage I need.I'm clueless about the various types of capacitors. I'm guessing I want ceramic since its appearance matches the old part the best.Does all this look correct?thanks

author: blanning
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 04:02:32 pm
content: For some reason the mauser parts list went missing.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 04:05:39 pm
content: Ceramic is fine and most likely what was used originally.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 05:56:02 pm
content: A Mauser C69?Take care when desosldering old pcbs especially when they've had nasties splashed on them.

author: blanning
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 06:09:19 pm
content: Quote from: Terry Bites on June 23, 2023, 05:56:02 pmHaha. I keep making that mistake.QuoteYeah, I plan to clean the board before I do anything. I worry about pads lifting. But I think it should be ok.The keyboard PCB has issues also. There are 5 dead keys that I think are the result of broken traces from corrosion caused by the same spill. The keyboard design means that I would have to desolder every key switch in order to separate it from the backing plate. I think it's probably better to just douse the entire thing in a lot of IPA.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 07:50:33 pm
content: The choices are fine.You could do a bit better by going with thin film resistors, as they have lower drift with temperature, but as they're used it most likely won't make a difference.For example,18k 1% 0.25w 100ppm :https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/YAGEO/MFR-25FTF52-18K?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIDP2mKKA5Iq%2Fc1ZtZK7GMhE%3D20k 1% 0.25w 50ppm :https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/YAGEO/MFR-25FTE52-20K?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIOunD5kldQozaEXfi2aiG68%3DIf you don't mind the looks, you could have a 18k in series with some 2.2k resistor or maybe even a 1k resistor, or you could have 2 10k resistors in series replace that 20k (maybe you have some generic 10k resistors already)
Newbie question about Oscillators (not crystals!) and Load Capacitance - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: PsychedelicBreakfast
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2011, 07:38:33 am
content: I'm looking to purchase a 8MHz oscillator for a project, and I've settled on thishttp://www.txccrystal.com/images/pdf/7c-tight.pdf. Most of this is straightforward, but I'm confused about the term "Load Capacitance" - doesn't apply to crystals? When using a crystal with a uC, one has to use capacitors of 22pf or so to make it work. Do I need such capacitors to use with oscillators too?I intend to use this with Altera CPLDs. The development also has a 10Mhz oscillator onboard and when I look at the schematic, I did not see "load capacitors" so I'm kinda confused on how to proceed. Would appreciate some help.

author: jahonen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2011, 10:00:32 am
content: You don't need any extra load capacitance. Load capacitance is critical only with crystals to tune the oscillator at right frequency. Put one series resistor (something like 22-47 ohms or so) right at the oscillator output to provide some series termination.Regards,Janne

author: wkb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2011, 10:00:39 am
content: This is most likely the maximum capacitive load the oscillator can drive at a given supply voltage.Why they mention multiple capacitances per supply voltage ??Wilko

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 02, 2011, 09:36:10 pm
content: The same question came up earlier:Oscillator load capacitance.Still no answer what the multiple capacitance numbers per voltage mean.
Newbie question- old oscilloscope iso-tech isr620 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: wembleyford
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 29, 2017, 02:04:15 pm
content: So, literally just beginning with some basic soldering, playing with some £1 kits on ebay, that sort of thing, with working my way up to building a clock using UB panel meters, powered by a TI TMS320 chip eventually...Anyway, followed Dave's advice and had a nosey around the university I worked at for some second hand kit - and got myself an old analogue oscilloscope for free. It's probably (definitely!) cheap rubbish even when new, but I can't complain at the price. What I can't find is any documentation or instructions. I'm sure I'll be able to work the very basics out, but it'd be good to have some reference docs as I still need to buy probes for it.It's old unit, seventies, I'd guess, and is badged as a 'iso-tech ISR620' - a dual channel 20Mhz scope. Most of their recent kit looks like rebadged stuff and It looks like the manufacturer was (recently) taken by RS as you get redirected if you go to iso-tech.com. Unfortunately, I can't find anything on RS's website about older products or even current models for that matter.Anyone have any docs or specs for a Iso-Tech ISR620 ?ThanksDave

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2017, 02:35:23 pm
content: Welcome on the forum.http://docs-europe.origin.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0033/0900766b80033c93.pdf

author: wembleyford
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 29, 2017, 02:54:29 pm
content: Hi oldway, thanks for the reply. I did find that hit previously, but noted it's for different models to the one I have - I'll take a second look and see if the instructions for the 622 cover the 620 to an adequate degree.

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2017, 04:41:25 pm
content: Yes, indeed the model 620 is older than the 622 and is very different.The 620 is very simple, really basic .... I think you need a training to use an analog oscilloscope.See our section: Oscilloscope training class (long)https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/oscilloscope-training-class-(long)/

author: wembleyford
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 02, 2017, 08:52:11 am
content: Yup - it definitely appears very basic. OTOH, it works fine, seems to be at least roughly in calibration (I have no probes yet.., so have made do with various random bits of wire), and the traces are good. Can't complain given what I paid for it.Thanks,Dave
Newbie question: Replace P-channel FET with N-channel? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: casper.bang
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2013, 02:47:46 pm
content: Driving an IR LED from an MCU, typically requires a P-channel FET as I have seen on several diagrams now. Since I only have small signal N-channel FET's laying around, can I simply move the resistor and LED from behind the drain, up in front of the source like you would do with a PNP -> NPN bipolar?

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2013, 02:57:42 pm
content: Found a picture for you using google image search.You should really put a low ohm resistor between the gate and i/o, unlike this picture, but its not strictly necessary. Use ~100R if you have it.Note: Your p channel was inverting the logic, (output high = led off)The n channel circuit doesn't invert. So output high = led on

author: casper.bang
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2013, 04:57:49 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on August 27, 2013, 02:57:42 pmAhhhh it's inverted... did not know it worked like that. Now I understand why my IR LED is always lit.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2013, 11:51:28 pm
content: Yep, to turn on a Ptype fet you need to pull the gate lower than the source. The source is at VCC so if you pull the gate to GND it turns on. Which is why it inverts.To turn on a Ntype fet you need to pull the gate higher than the source. The source is GND so if you put VCC onto the gate it turns on. (No invert)
Newbie Question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kettyshow
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 13, 2012, 05:09:12 am
content: Hello,Just picked up electronics as a hobby and I have been slowly building my lab. I would like to buy a power supply and I have had my eyes set on the Agilent E3610A. I understand that this is the same model as the HP 3610A that Agilent carried over from the 1999 spinoff. Here is my question: is there any difference whatsoever in any way between the two or is the Agilent the exact HP with a new label? I ask because I would like to have the same brand in my lab (Agilent that is since I have other products from them) but I could get a used HP cheaper.Thank you

author: StubbornGreek
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2012, 05:53:57 am
content: Quote from: kettyshow on July 13, 2012, 05:09:12 amAs long as they're calibrated correctly/recently then there's no (functional) difference aside from age.

author: kettyshow
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 13, 2012, 12:54:57 pm
content: Thank you StubbornGreek.
Newbie reentering and considering the Hantek 4202C - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Deboscope
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2019, 09:30:40 am
content: Hi Gents,Way back in 2012 I had acquired a Rigol 1052E Scope and a Rigol 1022 Waveform Generator.Although they are both of a reasonably high quality and a solid build, they are now stored in another country and it is awkward to have them shipped to me, so I have decided to go get me a new Scope and that is the Hantek 4202C.Is my decision wise? Would a 4102C be more cost effective? What does the increase in frequency give me?I would be getting an upgraded scope and an in built waveform generator, at least that is what I believe.For me pretty displays are important.I have used the Rigols in the past to analyse train modelling circuits and locomotive decoders with some success in circuit troubleshooting etc.Like I said, I love having a big bad scope with a pretty display. (~400$ or so)But I am no electronics engineer.Comments welcome...George