What crimping tool do you use for quick connect terminals? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2013, 07:04:21 pm
content: Everytime I try to use a quick connect terminal, I swear I can never crimp it correctly. The only tool I've ever tried is one of those el cheapo all in one crimp, cut, and strip tools. I'm not sure if that's the right one.Does anyone have a recommended crimper that they like to use?Is something like this appropriate:http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-Cutting-Crimping-Comfort-9-Inch/dp/B000KKJO7U/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1373656126&sr=1-6&keywords=crimping+pliers

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2013, 11:02:53 pm
content: What about a ratcheting typelike this? I have a similar one and it works well.

author: bilko
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2013, 11:18:39 pm
content: Quote from: David_AVD on July 12, 2013, 11:02:53 pm+1You need to use a ratchet crimping tool for consistent crimps

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2013, 11:20:12 pm
content: I use a ratcheting type as well, and the particular model allows me to change out the dies to match the terminals I'm using (less expensive than buying separate crimpers for each terminal type you use).Brochure of what I use (.pdf file:)http://www.pressmaster.se/wp-content/uploads/pdfs/mct_frame_en.pdf

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2013, 04:14:43 pm
content: Thank you guys. I'll definitely get one like that.

author: Spunky
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2013, 01:37:55 am
content: My crimps always fall off is I use pliers, ratchet tool works every time. Duratool do a cheap one that is actually very good.

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2013, 02:53:18 am
content: Quick connect was a model name used by Amp long ago and reused by TE more recently. Today the term Quick and many permutations are used by three companies I know of. So I am not sure which connector you are referring to.

author: MarkL
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 24, 2013, 07:18:31 pm
content: I like the Paladin Tools (now Greenlee) CrimpAll 1300. It's a ratchet tool with a zillion different available dies. It's quality made and will last a lifetime.There seem to be a lot of tools that look like it (or maybe they're even made by Paladin), but the Paladin-branded ones have thumbscrews for changing out the dies. The other ones I've seen have Phillips head screws, which makes them pretty inconvenient.The CrimpAll 8000 is a newer model of the 1300 and takes the same dies:http://www.digikey.com/us/en/ph/PaladinTools/CrimpAll.htmlIt can be bought alone or in a starter set with one or more dies sets that you need. Search around - even Amazon stocks the tool and dies. The older 1300 can be found on ebay for less.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2013, 08:06:08 pm
content: Quote from: David_AVD on July 12, 2013, 11:02:53 pmYes and no. Ratchet crimpers are awesome and in my opinion the best hand tool for the job.... BUT.....Be VERY careful what ratchet crimper you get. I am quite confident that this particular linked tool makes absolutely terrible crimps. We got one of these Chinese pieces of junk and the jaws aren't even close to being the right size. The flat areas in between the notches hit way before the crimp is complete. Plus the notches are too wide so instead of trapping the wire, the crimp just deforms enough to not fall off immediately. It deforms the crimp, but not enough to stand up to a good pull test. 60% of the crimps pull off easily with a little force.This is one of those times when you should really pop for a brand name. Go with Paladin Tools. They make really good stuff and are not outrageously expensive.If you want to go SUPER cheap, some of these multiuse stripper/crimper/slicer/dicer/dog washer/etc tools can make acceptable crimps in a pinch. Just don't expect to do more than a couple without your hand wanting to fall off. They are handy to have around to cut screws as well. Just don't try to use the stripper.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2013, 08:37:42 pm
content: Quote from: Smokey on July 24, 2013, 08:06:08 pmI'd have to agree with this.Seen a lot of variation between units (apparently poor QC), so some may work properly as it comes out of the package, some don't, but can be brought to proper spec after adjusting, and some not at all at. Even heard of this happening with Paladin (IIRC, there's a few Amazon reviews on this).I opted to go for a Pressmaster instead, given they're a major ODM for terminal makers (Thomas&Betts, Molex, 3M, and others). Found a model that's reasonable for what it is (~$50 for the frame & dies can be had reasonably from Waytek in the US; they use their own part numbers & don't carry all profiles; balance of dies can be had under Wiha). More expensive than the Asian imports, but they perform properly in my experience (suggest skipping cheap terminals to avoid problems). FWIW, frames are made in Sweden, and the dies are either Swedish or Taiwanese castings, finished in Sweden (machining).

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2013, 10:23:21 pm
content: The QC crimp tool I bought was actuallythis one from Altronics. It seems to work quite well and is reasonably priced.I can imagine that there are some very piss poor versions available though.

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 12:03:25 am
content: Did I miss something or are people recommending a crimper for an unspecified connector?There are three general barrel forms in many sizes for the connector style of quick connectors.Each of the three styles are designed to be used by three different crimper types.Nowhere did I read the barrel type nor the part number.Just worried that the tread author is being lead down a rabbit hole on this one due to assumptions.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 12:18:40 am
content: That's a good point. It would help to know exactly what he is crimping.In some of our defense though, the good ratchet crimpers take removable dies and the chances of a die being available for whatever that dude wants to crimp is pretty high.

author: jebcom
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 12:19:28 am
content: For the fast-on spade, ring, fork connectors that you can get at the local hardware store, I used to have a Thomas & Betts tool almost exactly like the Channelock tool in your Link. It has a wider crimp area and so is much better than el cheapo. Tho old tool was lent out and never came backand now I have a similar one but Chinese made from Harbor Freight.http://www.harborfreight.com/9-1-2-half-inch-wire-crimping-tool-36411.html

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 02:22:53 am
content: Quote from: Smokey on July 25, 2013, 12:18:40 amVery true, I wasn't trying to stop the helping just adding info to make sure it is correct help. I personally don't have the answer, we use the Amp kits which have all the tools needed, but I would not recommend it to anyone except a company, $150,000 is a big cost to swallow.I my hobby endeavours I take allot of time looking for the magic mix between connector cost and specified tools cost.On the good side I believe the tool style you recommended is not the recommended but is the accepted alternate for two of the styles (solid soft and lapped hardened). Generally speaking, of course the connector datasheet is right when it disagrees with my generalization.

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 03:33:40 am
content: Hi guys. Thanks for all the responses. The type of terminals I'm talking about are similar to these:

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 05:04:38 am
content: Can't see the core in the top one but the bottom is obviously a split core. Using the proper gauge is critical to a good crimp.The crimper for the bottom one is the type with a flat post in a cup.I think the top one is the common type of split core with a hard plastic boot. If so this one is the DIY type that is built to work poorly with any type of crimper, and great with none. Some DIYer just use needle nose pliers. The hand strong crimpers are a bit better. Investing in a ratchet crimper for this one would be a waist IMHO. If it is a lap or solid disregard.

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 08:44:32 am
content: Quote from: TimNJ on July 25, 2013, 03:33:40 amFor this type of insulated terminals I use Knipex like this (see Picture).For best results and if you want to crimp many terminals for many years, you should spend your money for a good tool.I found tools with easy changeable inserts (like pressmaster suggested from nanofrog) are a very good choice.Therefore I use Knipex MultiCrimp and their System Pliers and I am very happy with it.http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1299&groupID=1320http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1299&groupID=1322But there are of course other good brands as well.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 08:47:39 am
content: Quote from: quarks on July 25, 2013, 08:44:32 amdo i see right all of their ratchet crimping pliers have interchangable dies?, you can ignore the original writing on the tool itself if the die can be changed, but however when i last checked the prices of their dies it was almost equal to a new tool

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 08:58:44 am
content: in principal they are, but there is a big difference in convenience/speed when changingMultiCrimp is just one click and the System is just loosing the screw, while with all others you have to totally unscrew both screws.

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 05:04:29 pm
content: While Knipex tools are wonderful, this particular pair of pliers is $400...But I'll look for a cheaper alternative that has those dies.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 07:00:13 pm
content: Quote from: quarks on July 25, 2013, 08:58:44 amwhich die is the multicrimp?the other is their crimp system range right? which is basicly the same as a stand alone

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 07:14:25 pm
content: Quote from: TimNJ on July 25, 2013, 05:04:29 pmIf you only want to crimp the insulated ones from above you can of course find and get a lot cheaper tools.But as soon as you want to crimp also other connector types I found it is worth to invest in better tools.BTW I was not aware that the Knipex price in US is so high. I do not remember what I exactly paid but I think it was around 200 € for the MultiCrimp with 5 dies. That makes less than 40 € for one die. I think that is a fair price for this top quality tool.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 07:20:59 pm
content: its 100k huf here which is around 300ish euro

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 07:23:37 pm
content: Quote from: M. András on July 25, 2013, 07:00:13 pmMultiCrimp die is the bottom oneThe top one is from System PlierFor the other crimp tools I think all have only a hole (see picture) and therefore cannot just be pushed in

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 09:51:13 pm
content: I looked up the specs on the multi crimp. Looks like a great idea, but the crimp dies are limited. I found only 5 dies available and they include none for the small stuff. I have little use for 10AWG.The trapezoidal end sleeve crimp is new to me, should be square IMHO.Seems to get more sizes you need to get the crimp system pliers. A much more expensive route.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 10:29:22 pm
content: Quote from: WarSim on July 25, 2013, 09:51:13 pmTrapezoidal ferrule crimps are pretty normal.

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 11:04:41 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on July 25, 2013, 10:29:22 pmI believe you that they are common, but I just discovered they are not permitted in my area. So new to me.

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 11:12:13 pm
content: Did a lengthy search for a DIY solution. I just found Greenlee CrimpAll 8000. 46 dies available. No quick change. Not a parallel press.But due to the large price difference and better availability in North America I think I will they them first.Not to be confused with the commercial like Amp, Bendix, Molex etc. GreenLee or KinPex is not a competitor in this class IMHO.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 11:19:58 pm
content: Quote from: WarSim on July 25, 2013, 11:04:41 pmI'd love a reference and reasoning for that.

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 11:32:12 pm
content: Non commercial industry, you won't get anymore detail than that from me.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 11:43:24 pm
content: That's basically all I need to know.. Fair play. Specifications are rather strict in such areas.

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 08:27:31 am
content: I just had a look at some of the crimp tools I bought in the last 20-30 years. This should show that try to "save" money, will be unnecessary expensive in the end.The cheap left three ones are a just a waste of money. Also the quite expensive Phoenix crimper in the middle I would not buy anymore. What I learned from my own mistakes is, always look for the best tool you can afford, that will save money and prevent frustration.

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 01:38:17 pm
content: The third one looks very simulate to the one that is in my budget.What specifically is wrong with it? So I can guess if the issues have been addressed in the GreenLee PA8000.

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 03:06:24 pm
content: Most of these tools look similar, but watch out and double check if the one you like to buy is any good. If you do not know or cannot have a close enough look at it, you can probably tell by the price if there is a chance that it can be acceptable quality. I would think a useful die will be at least 20-30$ and the plier would add probably at least another 20$. If my guess is right the minimum expected price will most likely start at 40-50$ for acceptable quality.With mine the overall build quality and especially the die is really poor and therefore, as I said, a waste of money (I think it was around 30€).A Knipex offered from Amazon would only be 75€ (or even 70€), so I would not think twice and go for the real tool.I do not know your Greenlee and the price for it, but at least it looks like a better/good one to me.

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 04:03:02 pm
content: there is one more thing I forgot to mention. In Germany we have a test institution which warns from buying/using cheap tools, because there might be a risk for your healthsee translation:http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=de&sl=de&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.test.de%2FKrebsgefahr-Gift-in-Werkzeugen-1365869-0%2F

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 04:32:55 pm
content: I wouldn't have too much of a problem spending $100 (75euro) on a nice Knipex crimper, but here in the USA, that same tool is twice the price.I should tell you guys that I'm a college student. I don't have a reliable source of income, so spending $200 on a crimping tool doesn't really fit in with my financial status.Surely there is an American brand or a different European brand that isn't marked up as high?

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 04:53:52 pm
content: Twice the price is really bad, especially because the German price even includes 19% tax and free shipping

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 05:08:23 pm
content: Allways go to ChadsToolBox in the US$113.87herefor the same thing.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2013, 02:02:58 am
content: Quote from: TimNJ on July 26, 2013, 04:32:55 pmTake a look at the Pressmaster Mobile Crimp Tool, linked previously in the thread.Waytek (waytekwire.com) sells it under their own name (check their catalog). Frame + 1 die set for example can come in under $100, and there are multiple dies for it (more than Waytek sells). Made in Sweden, and quite cost effective for a hobbyist IMHO (I use one of these, and they work extremely well).BTW, Pressmaster makes a lot of the crimp tools for major terminal manufactures, such as Thomas&Betts, Molex, 3M, Emerson, and others.

author: jebcom
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2013, 04:21:14 pm
content: As a college student crimping the insulated connectors like you showed in the photos, you don't need a $100 crimper. The Channelock tool you linked to in the original post will be just fine, and it is made in USA. I have terminated many hundreds of this type of connector with the similar T&B tool. And the Harbor Freight tool that I have now is OK; you just need to open the jaws a bit further to get the connector in.

author: grenert
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2013, 04:47:40 pm
content: Klein also makes a similar crimper to the Channelock.http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1374943509&sr=8-3&keywords=klein+crimperAnd one with slightly chunkier handles:http://www.amazon.com/Klein-J1005-Journeyman-Crimping-Cutting/dp/B000936OTY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1374943509&sr=8-2&keywords=klein+crimper

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 01:43:13 pm
content: Just bought the Harbor Freight ratchet crimpers for $7.95 on sale. They are very functional and made amazingly well. they even have the eccentric to adjust the closed forced. The dies are hardened powder metal and properly shaped. All the pivots are removable with E rings to allow lubing with high pressure grease before use. You know I don't have a problem buying good tools but I give these afor a general use tool.

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 04:20:17 pm
content: Quote from: grenert on July 27, 2013, 04:47:40 pmI bought an identical crimp plier to those shown in these links but made by Lucas in the UK in 1974 and they are as good today as they were back than, prior to them I had a ratchet set made in Japan the broke very quickly.

author: hemdale
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 04:56:38 pm
content: Quote from: quarks on July 26, 2013, 08:27:31 amHi Quark,Looking at your picture, you have two crimpers from Knipex: le multiCrimp with 5 dies supplied, and the self adjusting 97 53 09.Is there a specific reasons you chose them both ? Also, what made you choose the 97 53 09 (front loading) over the 97 53 04 (lateral loading) ?Many thanks

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 02:04:43 am
content: In my experience -Some of the (cheaper) tools simply crush the crap out of the connector body - to squeeze the conductor.Others hold the barrel tight - and put a dent' in the rear of the connector barrel to make optimum contact with the conductor, while the last (expensive) type will apply multiple fingers (like an iris diaphragm) to create a circular 'flower' of impressions into the connector barrel...All depending in the type of QC or crimp connector, and insulated or not.

author: hemdale
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 12:37:54 pm
content: I'm a bit puzzled, what's the biggest difference between a square crimped terminal and a trapezoidal one.I'm guessing that no matter how you insert the square ferrule, it will always fit perfectly which isn't the case with a trapezoidal shape.Would the square crimp be a 100% winner ?

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 12:47:52 pm
content: in my experiences, the actual connector is as big a factor as the crimp.The split barrel type will simply fold around the cable at best (with the *right* tool), or just mush into a flattened mess at worst.The 'continuous' crimp sleeves can't distort, unless the tool pushes them in the right direction, but these are usually the more expensive terminals and tools.

author: hemdale
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 03:56:57 pm
content: @ SL4P: would you know any site or blog on which I could educate myself regarding crimps and various crimping techniques requirements ?Thanks

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 04:08:01 pm
content: Quote from: hemdale on February 02, 2016, 12:37:54 pmDo you have a picture of the connector and the die you like it to crimp with?

author: hemdale
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 04:45:01 pm
content: These are the smallest crimps I'll need to use for RC model cars

author: hemdale
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 04:48:18 pm
content: and the crimpers I've used so far...

author: hemdale
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 05:17:11 pm
content: Hi again guys,However, I'm planning to use solid + stranded wires in a near future in the sizes below:1.5mm², 2.5mm², 4mm², 6mm².Highly unlikely that I would be using any larger wires.I'm interested in the following connectors (see below):obvisouly these too, but still undecided between the square or the trapezoid.I'm rather a "buy good, buy once" guy. Since I don't want to end up with 5 different crimping tools (because I found out that 4 of them were crap), I'm leaning towards:Knipex MultiCrimp 973302 :http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=art_detail&parentID=1299&groupID=1320&artID=20541For Ferrules:http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=art_detail&parentID=1299&groupID=1307&artID=3962orhttp://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=art_detail&parentID=1299&groupID=1308&artID=3954Is it worth taking the connectors from Weidmuller ?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 05:33:50 pm
content: What's your budget?I find a pair of ratcheting, interchangeable die crimpers to be the most cost effective for prototyping/bench work, as well as field work. They may/may not fit your budget though, as they're not exactly cheap for a decent brand. Cost wise, figure ~$100 - $120 to start, and it goes up from there. Do note that since this type typically doesn't have locators, they require a little bit more skill (proper terminal placement in the dies).There are of course dedicated models as well, and these can be even easier to use (i.e. comes with a locator). But you're latest post indicating a desire to do insulated terminals & ferrules as well, makes me more inclined to recommend an interchangeable model (i.e. Pressmaster, Wezag, Knipex, or Weidmuller for brands).For disclosure, I've a mix; Pressmaster MCT for interchangeable dies, but also Wezag and Daniels Manufacturing for dedicated crimpers (all ratcheting types).

author: hemdale
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 05:51:45 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 02, 2016, 05:33:50 pmHi mate,Honestly, I'd like to keep it within 150 / 200€ range, and knowing I won't have to buy anything else and having the satisfaction to pass the plier over to my kids (if I have any one day)Ratcheting plier is a good idea and interchangeable dies makes a lot of sense. Actually, I'd rather have a plier with 4 or 6 separate dies, rather than 4 or 6 pliers.Wezag CS30 / CK 100 look interesting.I'll see if Weidmuller make any interchangeable plier. Thanks again for your help.

author: EagleTG
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 06:06:06 pm
content: I've always just used the nearly generic crimping tools like what Hemdale posted above and Smokey posted at the beginning of the thread (obviously depending on what size crimp connector I'm using). As long as I'm careful, they seem to work properly.I am taking notes on the other suggestions in this thread as there are some good recommendations. I like the idea of the ratcheting crimper with interchangeable elements.

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 06:07:10 pm
content: if you want a high quality connection, I would not go for the "automotiv" connectors (see pic) but the much better PIDG (see pic.)or use "blank" connectors and heatshrink later.about the ferrules, you should look how you want to connect your cimped wires.For a square cage I use square, but not for a round cage.about Weidmüller, I have to say the crimp tools are great (but more expensive than Knipex),about their ferrules , I do not think they are better than other quality brands (my guess is, they do not even make ferrules and only sell under their brand name)

author: hemdale
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 06:19:38 pm
content: Thanks a million Quarks,The PIDG connectors are vibration resistant I'm thinking ?I think the MultiCrimp would do for me :http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/35022.pdfI'm under the impression that you own both Knipex Multi Crimp and the Pressmaster MCT ?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 06:24:46 pm
content: Quote from: hemdale on February 02, 2016, 05:51:45 pmYou're welcome.If you can find the Wezag within your budget, I'd recommend getting it (add dies as needed).If not, then look for aPressmaster MCT(Multi Crimp Tool). If you can't locate one with a Pressmaster label on it, try Wiha or Xcelite, as both rebrand it (and add a healthy markup in the process).Unfortunately, Weidmuller doesn't offer an interchangeable die model.No idea how the Knipex would compare to Wezag, but it would have a lot to live up to IMHO. It does look nice though.

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 06:49:08 pm
content: I do have many crimping tools from different brands (AMP, Weidmüller, Knipex, ...), but unfortunately no Pressmaster MCT. So I cannot say anything about it, but I have a BNC crimp tool from the same swedish company and the build quality is in the same league as the other top brands.About the MultiCrimp, look for the newest version where they changed the die 13 (pic. on the right is the new one)

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 09:46:38 pm
content: Quote from: hemdale on February 02, 2016, 03:56:57 pmUnfortunately not...I was lucky to spend a working life in broadcast facilities which use a range of high quality (and some not so high!) in and between equipment.If you start with well known branded manufacturers with a family of matching tools, you'll have a chance.But fakes are always a problem with poor quality materials et.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 11:01:49 pm
content: The following resources regarding crimping may be of use.NASA Workmanship Standards(lots of illustrations)NASA-STD 8739.4with Change 6 (.pdf)https://youtu.be/kjSGCSwNuAgBTW, I'm the one with a Pressmaster MCT, Wezag (Panduit CT-1550), and a couple from Daniels Manufacturing (AMP & Ilsco) for personal use.

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2016, 10:34:54 am
content: here is an other source I find very usefull and worth to have a look at:http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

author: hemdale
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 03:32:57 pm
content: Hi guys,Just watched this video (Knipex owns Rennsteig now)In think the die designed to crimp the end ferrule is trapezoidal. Could you confirm ? I'd rather stick to a ferrule being crimped in a square shape since it retains a better electrical conductivity, unless "square crimps vs square crimps conductivity" would be a sort of "Audi vs BMW" battle ?I've been reading this lately:http://www.weidmueller.com/int/products/tools/news/crimping/crimping---a-permanent-connectionhttp://www.assemblymag.com/articles/92666-ferrules-prevent-connection-failuresThanks again for your help and input.

author: ryanscott6
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 05:13:45 pm
content: I use a GB GS-388 but am always looking for better options. My favorite crimp tool of any type is the Powerwerx Tricrimp.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 05:20:09 pm
content: Quote from: hemdale on February 04, 2016, 03:32:57 pmThanks for the update.Now we know who's been making them for Knipex.Quote from: hemdale on February 04, 2016, 03:32:57 pmAs long as the ferrules are DIN 46228 compliant, it won't matter (just need to be rated for the wire size/current capacity they'll be used for). Sticking with name brand terminals should cover you in this regard.If you're still hung up on square, please note you'll need a separate tool for that, as square is pressed from all 4 sides, not just top & bottom.

author: hemdale
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 05:34:27 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 04, 2016, 05:20:09 pmHi Nano,I had a good think, and to be honest with you, I'd be happy to avoid having to purchase ONE more specific crimper to make those square crimps.I'm guessing that trapezoidal crimps aren't THAT bad, right ?In terms of terminals, are there any good / reliable manufacturers ?

author: _Andrew_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 06:06:10 pm
content: For the insulated 1.5, 2.5 and 6.0 spade / built / ring terminals ect I have been using RS part number 499-2315. My ones are years old but still achieve a reliable crimp and at £38.25 +vat very reasonably priced.For bootlace ferrules I use Knipex 97 53 04 which leave a square finish. For me the square finish on a whole better suets the cage style terminal blocks that the majority of the time I am terminating into. Again these are very reliable crimp tool.

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 06:18:11 pm
content: Definitely buy knipex. It's expensive compared to Alibaba, but it will last for decades. Even in the hands of rough mechanics.However, for ferrules I've recently worked with an Weidmuller Stripax Plus 2.5, which saves you an enormous amount of time when doing paneling.The obvious drawback is that it will only do a single size when set up. For all other sizes you have one of those Knipex self-adjusting pliers ready. (the hexagon type)

author: vinicius.jlantunes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 06:21:29 pm
content: I am also in the market for a crimping tool, but options in Brazil are scarce and most times expensive. I found some that would fit the bill I think, but would be happy to hear some advice. Here is what I'm looking at (sorry, it's in portuguese but I think you can grasp it)http://www.fg.com.br/comparar?_requestid=918620#I am inclined to this one, but it doesn't come with a die for dupont type terminals which I would also use a lot.http://www.fg.com.br/produto/alicate-para-terminais-05-6mm-com-isolamento/1027284If I remember correctly Burndy is a pretty reputable brand isn't it?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2016, 12:06:16 am
content: Quote from: hemdale on February 04, 2016, 05:34:27 pmUnderstandable, particularly given the cost for a decent crimp tool.Quote from: hemdale on February 04, 2016, 05:34:27 pmAssuming they meet the DIN spec previously mentioned, nothing wrong with them at all.Quote from: hemdale on February 04, 2016, 05:34:27 pmCertainly.Without a specific type of terminal however, the best I can offer ATM is a general list (not complete, nor read too much into the order they're listed):Thomas&BettsPanduitTE Connectivity/AMPMolex3MJST (Japan Solderless Terminals)Multicomp (owned by Farnell)Specifically for bootlace/ferrules, TE Connectivity/AMP, Weidmuller, JST, Multicomp, and Schneider Electric are showing up on Farnell's UK site.Quote from: vinicius.jlantunes on February 04, 2016, 06:21:29 pmAssuming they're still made in Sweden, they're a rebranded Pressmaster, which is an excellent quality tool.If I'm reading the currency correctly however (R$ = BRL ? <Brazilian Real>), then there's no way a genuine Pressmaster will sell for that (works out to ~43USD according to Xe.com, so it would have to be a Chinese clone for that price).FWIW, genuine Burndy isn't cheap. For example, the battery poweredPAT46-18Vis just shy of 6kUSD for example.). It's on the extreme side for a hand tool, but the ratcheting hand operated versions are still starting at ~168USD, and go north of 300USD quickly.

author: Muttley Snickers
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 05, 2016, 12:26:40 am
content: I have a small collection of crimping tools, mostly ratchet type and mainly for coax and Utilux or blade connectors but none with inter changeable dies, anyway I received an email the other day from Rhino Tools who seem to have a pretty good assortment available, others will know if they are any good, might be worth a look.Rhino Tools (I have no affiliation)https://rhinotools.com.au/product/electrician-quick-change-crimping-kit/

author: nazcalines
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2016, 12:48:18 am
content: For small connectors I use a Panavise mini press with adapters to take the dies used in the ratcheting crimp tools. The adapters I milled out of 6061 aluminum. Works very well, but I haven't tried it with the beefier connectors yet.

author: nowlan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2016, 07:20:36 am
content: So was there a definate answer about trapezoid vs square. I been looking at Hex ones too, but cannot figure out why so many choices.Mind you the only time i use crimpers is on the car, and my mates use ebay knock offs. PIDG is different how?

author: HackedFridgeMagnet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2016, 08:12:16 am
content: It's also very important to match the crimp to the cable size.Sounds obvious but I couldn't see any mention of it.I just put those little bootlace ferrules on with bull nose pliers.Three gentle squeezes along the ferrule with the cutting edge.

author: vinicius.jlantunes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2016, 11:29:47 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 05, 2016, 12:06:16 amThanks nanofrog. Yes, R$ is BRL; the prices also struck me as being a bit low indeed. I remember using a Burndy branded crimp tool in a lab I worked, one of those big crimpers - yeah, it was very expensive and also very good.That store is a reputable big chain around here though, so I wouldn't think they would sell anything counterfeit - but it could perhaps be a "B" line from Burndy for not so interesting markets such as Brazil?Another theory is that due to the fact BRL went through a bit of a dive against USD in the past few months, this is old stock from when exchange rates were still ~2:1 and they haven't raised the price.I think in the end I might just buy one and try my luck... if it turns out to be good I let you guys knowThanks!

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2016, 06:26:42 pm
content: Quote from: nowlan on February 05, 2016, 07:20:36 amIn terms of current, it doesn't matter so long as they conform to DIN spec.Where the shape matters, will depend on the wire insertion type & shape of the device they're inserted into. For example, if you've flat parallel jaws that use a set screw to clamp the terminated wire, either the square or trapezoidal are sufficient. If it's a couple of V shaped spring or screw contacts however, then hexagonal is the appropriate terminal, as there's more surface for the spring contacts to "bite" into for proper current transmission.Quote from: nowlan on February 05, 2016, 07:20:36 amNylon insulation is resistant to hydrocarbons (greases, oils, etc.) and has high dielectric strengthCopper sleeve between insulation and terminal body provides excellent wire support after crimpingFunneled wire entry on terminal prevents turned back wire strands and permits rapid wire insertion during high speed productionProduct is rated for use up to 105 degrees C and 300 VoltsSerrations in the crimp barrel provide maximum contact and tensile strength after crimpingThe cheaper alternatives use vinyl as the insulation material, which isn't as resistive to chemicals, can't take as much heat (rated for 90C), and don't have the metal funnel that's crimped on the wire's insulation (they do make vinyl with the funnel & serrations, but they're priced almost identically to the PIDG or equivalents). None of them however, including PIDG, are sealed, so can easily corrode in automotive and marine applications. They're designed for fixed wiring installations in non-corrosive environments (i.e. inside an indoor metal panel or LV control systems).For automotive and marine applications, you want to use either a heat shrink terminal or DIY one out of a non-insulated terminal + adhesive lined heat shrink (bit more effort cutting & fitting the heatshrink, but it's less expensive). FWIW, I use the latter method, and it works properly (has kept me from having to either buy a new tool or 2 sets of dies too).Quote from: HackedFridgeMagnet on February 05, 2016, 08:12:16 amFWIW, I've assumed everyone knows this in my case.As per your method, that's not enough to cause the wire & terminal tocold weldto one another (what happens in a proper crimp). All the strands & terminal literally becomes a single, contiguous piece of metal. Without this, you'll have a higher contact resistance, which can cause problems, including melted insulation if it's high enough.Quote from: vinicius.jlantunes on February 05, 2016, 11:29:47 amI was thinking less counterfeit, and more of a consumer line (didn't see mention of it on their website, but I didn't dig either). So sort of like your idea of a "B" line for specific markets. FWIW, I know stuff in Brazil is expensive from PM's with another member that resides there, so I'd still expect a higher price when the exchange rate was ~2:1 (a COO of Sweden can be seen on some photos of their hand operated ratcheting crimpers).As per the Chinese made clones (patent on that style is expired), they vary wildly from works properly as-is, to needs adjustment to get it into spec, and cannot be adjusted into spec no matter how hard you try. QC varies that much IME.Hopefully you'll get a good one.I'd recommend getting a spec sheet (may have to email for it) for the terminals you decide to use. Then measure and perform pull-out tests to make sure it's in spec before making crimps on any service or control wiring (real job).

author: Sjokolade
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2016, 05:45:02 pm
content: This is the Elpress Mobile, it's the same as the Pressmaster Mct - really nice tool that seem to have really high quality.http://www.elpress.se/searchTool/pdf_tools/MOBILE_GB_0051.pdfWhat I didn't like was the grey die release button on the plier, felt like really hard plastic and I had to press it hard to release the dies - was worried it might break off.Other then that all the casettes and the dies themself was good, dies marked with both awg and mm2 square millimeter - the two dies halves wont fall apart as the thick rod holding them together when out of the cassette.Not all made in Sweden, one die made in Germany.Got a Knipex 97 52 34 SB on the way from ebay, hope it's not a fake one.

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2016, 06:45:50 pm
content: looks like very good qualtity tool

author: jwm_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2016, 08:54:19 pm
content: I use the astro one and a real crimper is one of the best purchases I have made.http://www.amazon.com/Astro-9477-Professional-Interchangeable-Tool/dp/B0045CUMLQthe dies are simple to change, just pull it out and push another in and the case is rugged and holds things in.The only thing i'd like is a cheat sheet on the case that shows which terminal types go with which dies... perhaps i can make one up..

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2016, 09:24:22 pm
content: Quote from: Sjokolade on February 17, 2016, 05:45:02 pmFWIW, I've not had this issue with mine.Quote from: Sjokolade on February 17, 2016, 05:45:02 pmBe aware they got in trouble for improperly marking COO, as their dies are actually cast in Taiwan, and finished in Sweden according to the US office personnel I had contact with (in violation of their own COO regulations). So they've removed any COO on more recent production (been a few years now; stock photos are pre-court ruling).I've not seen any other dies marked with Germany on them, so that's a new one on me (older stock photos showed "Made in UK" for insulated terminal dies). And as you can see, mine has no COO markings at all.I use my Panduit CT-1550 for insulated terminals though, which is a rebranded Wezag with their own die spec. It does a much better job with theRedterminals as the Pressmaster die doesn't fully produce the inspection markings on the insulation for both the original that was sent back and existing set in the photos (dots aren't fully rendered = they wouldn't pass a compliance inspection).BlueandYelloware fine on my Pressmaster dies (never tried theGreenprofile).

author: HackedFridgeMagnet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2016, 10:29:09 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 05, 2016, 06:26:42 pmI don't think crimping is going to do that. If you tear the crimp apart there will still be separate conductors.I'm trying to follow yourQuoteline of thought here.What about screw terminals is the resulting junction cold welded? Talking about copper and brass here.If they are the cold welded the wires would not separate when you undid the terminal.If they aren't then are you saying they are not safe? They measure a very low resistance.Similarly Relays don't cold weld in normal operation and conduct well.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2016, 10:38:33 pm
content: Quote from: HackedFridgeMagnet on February 17, 2016, 10:29:09 pmIf you cut open a properly done crimp joint on find stranded cable you'll have one hell of a time telling there were separate conductors in there, let alone separating them. Cold welding is the whole point of crimping.

author: HackedFridgeMagnet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2016, 11:06:14 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on February 17, 2016, 10:38:33 pmWell it's not the whole point of crimping. Sometimes I just want to put lugs on wires.So should all crimped connections cold weld, to the point of not being able to separate conductors?Seems to me if cold welding was doing all the holding then you wouldn't need the ferrule itself, you could just cold weld the wires together.I'm taking the point to the extreme to see if it still holds, and it doesn't.Crimping two wires stillrelieson a sound, non cold welded mechanical connection.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2016, 12:11:01 am
content: Quote from: HackedFridgeMagnet on February 17, 2016, 11:06:14 pmYes.QuoteThe cold weld IS the sound mechanical connection. That's the mechanism by which a proper crimp joint works. Anything else is just hope.

author: HackedFridgeMagnet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2016, 02:01:59 am
content: Look I don't doubt what your saying is true but I am trying to understand it.Is a connection of two wires at a screw terminal a cold weld?If it is why can you unscrew it and easily separate the conductors?If it isn't then why is it used, as it would then be inferior to to a cold weld? Or maybe it's not really that much inferior to a cold weld.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2016, 08:28:16 am
content: Quote from: HackedFridgeMagnet on February 18, 2016, 02:01:59 amA screw terminal does not form a cold weld. This is intentional, as screw terminals are designed to allow for it's connection to be removable in order for things to be replaced, such as a circuit breaker in a service panel, or even reconfigured, such as low voltage industrial controls. Same with relays; the external electrical connections are designed with replacement in mind. You may also notice that spade or ring terminals have a large surface area that's equivalent or greater than the cross-sectional area of the conductor for proper current flow (generates heat if it's too small, which can lead to failures such as melted or charred insulation that can result in shorts, and even fires).A crimp OTOH, is designed to be permanent.Knowing this, now let's go back and think about boot lace ferrules for a moment. The wire is meant to be permanently attached to the ferrule, so it gets crimped, while the outside is designed to be removable from the circuit breaker screw terminal it's inserted into. Same goes for spade or ring terminals for example (wire gets crimped, terminal is then attached to a device via a screw terminal for future replacement, maintenance, or some other form of service).Hopefully I've explained this well enough it will make enough sense to you.BTW, notice I've not included spade terminals in the removable group (rings & forks), as it's actually designed to cold weld at the M-F contact junctions for reliability & signal integrity.

author: HackedFridgeMagnet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2016, 09:31:13 am
content: Thanks,but I bit I don't understand isif pressure creates the cold weld then why isn't there a cold weld when 2 copper wires are screwed into the same terminal? I guess it is less pressure.But I can surely do up a terminal with at least as much force as say a 2.5mm csa crimper.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2016, 10:33:18 am
content: Quote from: HackedFridgeMagnet on February 18, 2016, 09:31:13 amFundamentally, a proper crimp requires both sufficient force, and fresh metal (non-oxidized surfaces), or it will not weld.In the case of a screw terminal, it applies far less pressure than a proper crimp (likely under ~300 N / 67 lbs., depending on how much hand strength the installer can apply to the screwdriver without stripping the screw head). Proper crimp tooling OTOH, will apply thousands of Newtons of force. For example, my Pressmaster MCT applies 10,000 N /~2250 lbs. to the terminals (excessive application is prevented via stops built into the dies to limit the distance the dies can compress, so the terminals aren't over-crimped). Most ratcheting crimp tools I've seen specs on, apply at least 7000 N / ~1573 lbs.During the crimping process, the deformation process exposes fresh metal on the mating surfaces so it can weld (breaks up the oxide layers). Screw terminals can't do this on all the mating surfaces however. The wire may have fresh non-oxidized metal exposed due to mechanical force, but the screw surface itself may not (i.e. steel rather than tin, copper, or brass), and opposite non-moving parallel mating surface will not. So even if the screw terminal manages to produce enough pressure for a cold weld to occur, it's still missing the second key factor of non-oxidized metal on all mating surfaces.

author: HackedFridgeMagnet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2016, 11:00:18 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 18, 2016, 10:33:18 amOk so there is a massive force difference. I didn't realise it was so much.Quote from: nanofrog on February 18, 2016, 10:33:18 amYeah but I wasn't talking about dissimilar metals I was talking about when you put 2 copper wires into the same screw terminal and why they don't weld then.Anyway thanks for the info.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2016, 11:17:46 am
content: Quote from: HackedFridgeMagnet on February 18, 2016, 11:00:18 amNot necessarily that easy to realize, especially with ratcheting crimp tools.To put this into perspective, a ratcheting crimp tool is designed to multiply say ~225 - 235N max. to 7k - 10k N at the die, so ~ 30 - 31x for their multiplication factor.Definitely don't want to get a finger stuck in there.Quote from: HackedFridgeMagnet on February 18, 2016, 11:00:18 amI was talking hard v. soft metals as the surfaces have to be able to deform in order to expose fresh metal so it can cold weld (if you can deform steel sufficiently, you'd be able to cold weld that too). But there's not enough force to do that in a screw terminal, nor are all of the surfaces designed to deform.

author: Sjokolade
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2016, 11:55:32 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 17, 2016, 09:24:22 pmAhh this is interesting, was not aware of this.I see on page two of the pdf I linked to the two first dies for insulated terminals are made in England and the dies themself has different casting/machining on top and bottom.

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2016, 03:49:58 pm
content: replying to a older thread, I realize..I'm about to order some crimp tools and wanted to make sure I am getting the right ones.some of you guys talked about this:https://www.waytekwire.com/item/560/Waytek-Customizable-Crimping-Tool-Frame/and I like the idea of a frame and plugins, as long as there will be enough plugins to make it worth getting. this brand seems like they are serious (right?)I'm not really sure what terminals I'll encounter, that's my problem. I'm not going to buy 1000 of one type and know exactly what type I'll be using. it will be the style usually found in 'automotive' clps, the red, blue and yellow ones:https://www.waytekwire.com/item/562/DIE-SET-FOR-22-14-GA-INSULATED/but I may use a combo of insulated, non-insulated (with my own HS) or maybe the fancier and costlier non-vinyl insulated types.if I don't know which kinds (specifically) I'll run into, is there a 'safe bet' set of dies that I should buy that will likely work? the one I linked to seems like one to own.this one covers 2 more 'colors' for the insulated line:https://www.waytekwire.com/item/561/DIE-SET-FOR-26-22-12-10-GA-INS/not sure I need it; as I think I'm going to see more of the red and blue types.for HS terms, this one shows up in a pre-selected set so maybe its worth getting at the same time:https://www.waytekwire.com/item/566/DIE-SET-FOR-22-14GA/??for non-ins terms, is this one recommended? it was also on the combo set listing:https://www.waytekwire.com/item/567/DIE-SET-FOR-22-10-AWG/I also tend to use a lot of molex KK terms:any idea which die would work for the various molex KK's ?cheers

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2016, 04:16:19 pm
content: If they don't specify what kind of connectors their dies are for then it is a total shot in the dark. Why don't you ask them?I have seperate ratchet style crimpers for various connectors and ferrules from Ebay.This crimper works reasonably well for crimping molex KK254:http://www.ebay.com/itm/TU-190-08-XH2-54-PH2-0mm-DuPont-Terminal-KF2510-Crimping-Tool-Pliers-/121934180951

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2016, 11:33:13 pm
content: Quote from: linux-works on June 06, 2016, 03:49:58 pmYes.They make a lot of crimpers for various terminal manufacturers, such as Thomas&Betts, 3M, and Molex. Tool brands such as Xcelite and Wiha as well. Do note that the interchangeable die models do require a bit more skill to use properly, particularly in knowing how & where to position both the terminal and wire.Quote from: linux-works on June 06, 2016, 03:49:58 pmThese ^ are made for vinyl and nylon insulated terminals, which are meant for fixed installations (i.e. buildings), not high vibration environments such as automobiles. Also, given the size of the dies, they can't fit red, blue, and yellow nests on a single die so they're split up; red and blue on one, and yellow and green on another.For automotive use, you should use the non-insulated terminals + adhesive lined heat shrink tubing or heat shrink terminals (the latter type are more expensive).For non-insulated terminals with stranded wire:4300-3142 Die Set for 22-10 AWG Terminals(butt splice, ring, ... that have a brazed/welded seam). Note, the single indent nest is for stranded wire, while the double indent nest is for solid wire (4300-3139). If the seam isn't welded/brazed, skip it (they spread out and won't cold weld properly, if at all).For open barrel, it will depend on the specific size of the terminal. If you notice the photos carefully, they tell you what the dies are for (etching in the die).6.3mm/.250" open barrel:4300-3146 Die Set for Non-Insulated Terminals, 22-10 AWG(think switch & relay contact tabs, so also very useful)4.8mm/.187" open barrel:4300-3151 Die Set for Non-Insulated Push-On Terminals, 22-14 AWG, DIN 46247-22.8mm/.110" open barrel:MCT4300-3150 Die Set for Non-Insulated Push-On Terminals, 18-22 AWG, DIN 46247-1Metric/inch sizes ^ are for the connector width (i.e. spade or fork width). Depending on the KK terminal used, you'd be looking at either the 4300-3150 or 4300-3151.TheEvolution of a Crimparticle on Connector + Cable Assembly Supplier might be of some interest.

author: IdahoMan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2016, 07:16:13 am
content: I'd like to BUMP this.Been reading up on Crimpers (nanofrog's info,http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination,TE Connectivity vids, etc.).I've got most of the info I need I think, but finding a good tool seems to be the hard part. They are either absurdly priced, going Chi-chi, changing ownership, simply not to spec, some kind of catch, many copies of a tool not to mention the forgeries, S&H too high, etc.. Just don't know what to trust.I'd like to find a good "universal" (dies) Crimper for crimpingallthe different kinds of terminals, except of course for the really large stuff (2AWG-MCM) that would take a different tool.UL, DIN, or Mil spec. (see above link)No China (no-brainer)Fair priced.Some of the Crimpers linked to here, like the WayTek/Pressmaster, are they to spec? Seems like they would be a nice tool if they worked. Another tool (link above) that looks good is the FTZ for the large stuff (6awg-250MCM), but it is now made in China.

author: batteksystem
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2016, 08:43:51 am
content: Quote from: WarSim on July 25, 2013, 09:51:13 pmI use hydraulic crimp for 2 to 6 AWG wiring.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2016, 02:26:25 pm
content: Quote from: IdahoMan on August 10, 2016, 07:16:13 amEven with interchangeable die systems, you won't necessarily be able to cover every terminal you need as there's none that offer every die possible. Of course, if your terminal needs are limited to just a few types, one tool with the necessary dies available would do.Quote from: IdahoMan on August 10, 2016, 07:16:13 amWaytek is just a vendor; Pressmaster is the actual manufacturer, and they make top of the line stuff (think Thomas&Betts' crimpers). As per meeting spec, the wire prep has to be correct, as does both terminal and wire placement to meet specs (no locators, so additional skill is required here). Regardless, if you've compliance issues, you'll want to make some test crimps and compare to the terminal manufacturers' Go/NoGo specs (you may have to request these).Wezag is another tier 1 crimp tool manufacturer (i.e. they make Panduit's crimpers, such as the CT-1550/1551 or 1701). Unfortunately, I don't recall them offering an interchangeable system. Knipex does however, so you could take a look at those.

author: IdahoMan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2016, 03:03:51 am
content: Thanks again nanofrog.ThatWaytek crimper(re-branded Pressmaster "MCT"?), as of August 2016:Is it still made in Sweden? I contacted Waytek but haven't received a response yet.Are the dies accurate and durable? They are expensive, I've seen them sold for $40-$111.QuoteI'm pretty precise and don't need the tool to do the work for me. What the tooldoeshave to do, if I understand crimping, is: Be accurate (in this case the die machining?), apply enough force to cause the proper "Cold Weld", and not fall apart due to use. Have you any experience with the "MCT" model by chance?BTW, on a minor note and just for the heck of it, what do you think of those hammer crimersfor large terminals? I tried it out on some 6AWG welding wire and a ring terminal, dremeled it apart to take a look.. idk. It is said that a "cold weld" fuses the wire strands and terminal together like a solid piece. How much of an exaggeration is that? Ever dissected/teardown a good crimp before? Any pics?Thank you.IM

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2016, 04:47:50 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on August 10, 2016, 02:26:25 pmWezag has a number of interchangeable systems. It also has a system with two handle styles (CS30 or CK100) that use the same dies.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2016, 08:35:32 pm
content: Quote from: IdahoMan on August 13, 2016, 03:03:51 amYou're welcome.1. Yes, the Waytek 560 is a rebranded Pressmaster MCT.2. The frame is still made in Sweden. According to the US support personnel I spoke with, they do the final machining/grinding in Sweden, but the castings can come from multiple sources, including Taiwan (gave me the impression most of their castings have been shifted to Taiwan). So they're accurate as a general rule.That said however, I have had issues with the insulated die for red & blue terminals, as the red side's compliance markings don't fully form on both the original I received as well as it's replacement (Taiwanese casting). The crimps themselves are within spec (Go/No Go + wire pull tests). But as I also have a Panduit CT-1550, it's not a big concern in my case (covered for compliance issues).Quote from: IdahoMan on August 13, 2016, 03:03:51 amI own an MCT, and it definitely generates sufficient force to produce a proper cold weld (10,000N/~2250lbs, which is higher than a lot of other makes & models). The dies are properly machined IME as well (have met Go/No Go specs from the terminal manufacturer).Quote from: IdahoMan on August 13, 2016, 03:03:51 amNever used one, so I can't say one way or the other. But personally, I'm wary of them given the surface area doesn't keep the entire terminal captive (looks like the terminal could spread, thus not create a proper cold weld).As per the wire & terminal effectively becoming a single solid mass of metal is entirely correct. You can see some gaps in some cases due to the wire strand size (i.e. stranded structural wire say no bigger than 2/0). But they do actually weld where they come in contact with one another and the terminal surface (gaps are also smaller than what they were originally, as the wire strands deform & fill most of the space). On finely stranded wire, it's truly a solid piece. See photos below.BTW, for non-insulated & insulated terminals that have seams in the crimped section, I'd suggest getting a brazed or welded seam as they can't spread, unlike the cheaper butted seam versions.Quote from: helius on August 13, 2016, 04:47:50 amThanks.Had a total brain fart on this one.

author: carcachute
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 14, 2016, 01:51:43 pm
content: One of these (3M TR-490) with a slightly different die:I'm also partial to the Solistrand system, which uses uninsulated terminals and a very aggressive crimper to terminate solid or stranded wire. You leave these bare or put heat shrink over the splice, so you don't have the mushy plastic between the tool and the crimp.

author: IdahoMan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2016, 04:39:44 pm
content: The price on this one is seems ok:http://www.ebay.com/itm/S-G-Tool-Aid-18980-Master-Ratcheting-Terminal-Crimper-Set-/191305543811?hash=item2c8ab2f083&item=191305543811&vxp=mtrAnyone use it? Made in?IM

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2016, 04:43:44 pm
content: Quote from: IdahoMan on August 14, 2016, 04:39:44 pmFrom the appearance, it looks like Taiwan manufacture, like Eclipse or Paladin/Platinum. The dies appear identical to the Paladin 1300, but there can be rude surprises with the dimensions not matching, so be careful when mixing dies.

author: aandrew
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2016, 09:07:36 pm
content: I've given up on finding an economically priced set of ratcheting crimps for my connectors. They typically start at $300 and go up from there, and only work with one, two if you're lucky, families of pin. Die sets if your crimp tool supports them generally start at $90 and go up from there, on top of the crimp tool's price.If you're making cables professionally then absolutely do spend the money. Ratcheting crimpers are the only way to fly.Having said that, I use a $50 hand crimper from Molex to successfully crimp Molex Mini-Fit Jr, MicroFit 3.0 and pretty much any of their 0.100" pitch connectors along with Harwin's 0.100". I can even do the JST battery type connectors (2mm and 0.1") if I squint enough and don't have too much coffee. It's a Molex 0638111000, Digikey WM-9999-ND; I see the price is up to CAD$90 now, can be bought much cheaper.I have recently found a smaller hand crimp which works very well for JST and the tiny Hirose DF13 series. It's the "Engineer PA-09" and can be found on Amazon for about $60.Between these two sets of hand crimps I am pretty good for any wire or cable harness I might want to buy, although I have started to give in and buy pre-crimped wires for the Hirose DF13 series. Those pins are so damn small, but I love the connector series.Another tip I have is to buy the pins in bulk, not in cut tape. They are sometimes cheaper and I've found that it's a LOT easier to use the bulk pins for hand-crimping instead of clipping or bending the individual pins off the metal "tape" - Particularly with the Molex 0.100" pitch headers/sockets, I find that I have to take a pair of small side cutters and make sure that there isn't a little metal "tail" on the cut tape pins or they don't seat quite right. No issues with that with the bulk pins because they're cut right at the pin.

author: IdahoMan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2016, 12:16:50 am
content: Just no finding anything anymore is there?Everything is built incompetently, or sell your car to buy a screwdriver prices.Forget it. I'm going to buy an $7 crimper from the local ching-zing-bonk trough (AKA a "Hardware Store").

author: vinicius.jlantunes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2016, 05:25:32 pm
content: @aandrew - I feel the same way - it's not that I'm cheap, I just don't have that kind of money unfortunately... I would like a tool that can do from KK terminals all the way up to those spade / fork type terminals (say, 6 mm²), for hobby use - but it seems you just can't have it all in one tool and its set of dies, you have to resort to buying dies separately which makes it a bit complicated.The one set that I liked (taken from this thread) and that I can afford is this "Astro 9477" linked by jwm_ - but it seems it can't do the dupont style terminals? (Or maybe I'm getting confused with the terminology / terminal types in English, which is not my native language).https://www.amazon.com/Astro-9477-Professional-Interchangeable-Tool/dp/B0045CUMLQ(by the way, it looks exactly the same as the rhino tools one linked by Muttley:https://rhinotools.com.au/product/electrician-quick-change-crimping-kit/)I've seem many of these IWISS in Amazon (see one example below) - they look like I could buy one tool and get matching sets of dies for the terminal types not covered by the dies that come with the tool. The only thing is that they are so cheap it makes me suspicious (after all, all good tools linked in this thread are quite expensive).https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Compression-Ratcheting-Wire-electrode-Die--Change/dp/B00OMM4YUY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471368258&sr=8-1&keywords=iwiss

author: IdahoMan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2016, 01:45:38 am
content: Just a thought that comes to mind: How hard/expensive would it be to get a machine shop to machine a die out of a piece of steel? And what type of steel would be used? You know.. find a good tool (ratcheting or hydraulic), and then just make the dies you need.Am I the only one that thinks it shouldn't be this problematic/difficult to find a crimping solution?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2016, 05:53:44 am
content: Quote from: IdahoMan on August 17, 2016, 01:45:38 amThe setup costs would very likely cost more than buying a ready made die. Of a name brand/high quality tool, the Pressmaster MCT* had the lowest TCO when I was looking.FWIW, you can get dies and use them in a 1 ton arbor press (Panavise makes the561 Crimp Press Retrofit Kitfor the die shape of the kit photo previously posted).Another alternative, and the one I'd suggest if you're going to pass on the MCT, is look for used name brand crimpers in good shape on eBay (they come up regularly, and real deals can be had if you're patient).* Waytek 560 being the least expensive way to get one and the dies they offer, even for the Weatherpack die used for automotive connectors (i.e. GM).

author: IdahoMan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2016, 07:27:30 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on August 17, 2016, 05:53:44 amnanofrog, your information is excellent and you have been helpful to the extreme. Thank you! Is there a "points" system on this forum? I'd giver you a star.Yes, the MCT is the most tempting I have seen thus far, I'm just concerned it might not have the dies I need.I'll do a little more homework on what I need.IM

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2016, 02:28:17 pm
content: Quote from: IdahoMan on August 17, 2016, 07:27:30 amYou're welcome.What are you looking for exactly?In the meantime, I'd suggest looking at theMCT Product Brochureas it also has the dies currently offered if you scroll down (.pdf).BTW, if you need dies that Waytek doesn't carry, the next best place to get them isWirecare.comIME (link covers all the dies they have for it). And they carry the full line from what I'm seeing.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2016, 04:07:29 pm
content: $80 per die does seem kind of steep. I never paid half that for any crimp tool, all of which I got used. Penny wise and pound foolish, perhaps.I ended up with a wide selection, from MIL pin and socket to PIDG to RG58. I'm only missing tools for Deutsch terminals and ferrules, but I haven't needed those, yet.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2016, 10:48:01 pm
content: Quote from: helius on August 17, 2016, 04:07:29 pmActually, it's not if you look at the prices of other dies from tier 1 crimp tool manufacturers when new. And at least you'll know there's QC in place to so they meet specs, so the additional funds spent aren't just wasted on a brand name.Fortunately, some of the simpler MCT dies sold by Waytek are cheaper (~$32 - $46).I only linked Wirecare as Waytek does not carry the full line of dies (their business is automotive wire harness production/repair/modification supplies). Some are notably more however, particularly the Weatherpack and Metripack profiles (~$86 and ~$115 respectively). Other vendors sell them for significantly more (i.e. ~2x).Generally speaking, I find the trick not to over-pay for quality crimp tools new, is buy it with the actual tool maker's label rather than a terminal manufacturer's label. For example, buy Wezag instead of Panduit, and Pressmaster instead of Thomas&Betts. Works for other stuff too of course, such as wire strippers.FWIW, I'm also very fond of getting quality tools used (pennies on the dollar is a good thing). In fact, I've actually gotten a lot of my stuff that way (T&M gear + hand tools).

author: Danielw
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 06:27:35 pm
content: Earlier Weidmuller Stripax Plus 2.5 was mentioned. I actually got one for free once, it had bad 'teeths' (Not the cable cutter, the stripping part) and I've been looking around for spare teeths... I been using other strippers and the spare parts have been easy to find. Maybe I'm just blind ^^

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 09:38:50 pm
content: Quote from: Danielw on August 19, 2016, 06:27:35 pmUnfortunately, I found the following from a data sheet...QuoteSource.Seems the only replaceable blade/part is for the wire cutter (P/N = 9050340000).

author: knotlogic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2016, 02:19:21 pm
content: Is the Pressmaster 4300-3150 die set the correct die for crimping stuff like Molex KK and similar connectors? I have a project where I'm going to need to crimp a lot oftheseandthese, and the current cheap crimp tool I have just mangles Molex KKs. The one I linked to are even smaller, and I reckon more delicate.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2016, 04:26:50 pm
content: Quote from: knotlogic on September 19, 2016, 02:19:21 pmYes.

author: bicc1306
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2016, 01:59:18 pm
content: Insulated Crimper and Crimping Plier.

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2016, 12:52:04 am
content: I picked up the S&G Tool Aid crimp set pictured above a while back - after reading more about the "cold weld" (plastic deformation) performed by the better quality crimpers I was curious how the S&G would stack up, so I performed a crimp on some 18 AWG wire in a red insulated terminal so I could section it and take a look. Looks like it did pretty well. Definitely critical to use the right die, wire and terminal to get correct crimps like this.

author: Lomax
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2017, 02:27:21 am
content: Excavating an ancient thread, I know, but just stumbled upon it and thought you might be interested in my list of Pressmaster MCT dies. I've made a start on cross-referencing with other brands' model numbers, but this is far from complete. I would love to hear if you know of other dies (particularly for "Dupont" type connectors, which only crimp half-well with the 4300-3150 die), or if you can help improve the cross-references. I'm quite a fan of this tool, and have managed to amass no less than 13 dies - but as you can see below I still have some way to go until I've caught them all:Code:P-MASTER WIHA LAPP CEMBRE ABIKO DESCRIPTION####################################################################################################################################Modular====================================================================================================================================4300-3144 43144 62000125 4300-3144 OMP45 RJ45 connectors 8/8, 8/6, 8/44300-3132 43132 62000126 4300-3132 OMP11 RJ11 connectors 6/6, 6/4, 6/2Turned Pin====================================================================================================================================4300-3147 43147 62000127 4300-3147 OPB0140 Turned pin connectors 0.14-4mm²4300-3148 43148 62000128 4300-3148 OPB6099 Turned pin connectors 6-10 mm²Endsleeves====================================================================================================================================4300-3127 43127 62000115 4300-3127 OEB0210 Endsleeves connectors 0.25-10mm²4300-3153 43153 62000116 4300-3153 OEB1625 Endsleeves connectors 16-25 mm²4300-3154 43154 62000117 4300-3154 OEB3550 Endsleeves connectors 35-50 mm²Insulated Terminals====================================================================================================================================4300-3129 43129 62000110 4300-3129 OAA0525 Red/blue insulated connectors, 0.5-2.5 mm²4300-3128 43128 62000111 4300-3128 OAA0160 Green/yellow insulated connectors 0.1-6mm²4300-3258 43258 - 4300-3258 OSW0525 Red/blue heat shrink connectors4300-3262 43262 - 4300-3262 OSW0360 Green/yellow heat shrink connectorsOpen Barrel====================================================================================================================================4300-3150 43150 62000118 - ORB0110 Open barrel connectors, 0.1-0.25/0.25-0.5/0.5-1.0 mm²4300-3151 43151 - - - Open barrel connectors, 0.5-1.5/1.5-2.5 mm²4300-3146 43146 62000120 4300-3146 ORB0560 Open barrel connectors, 0.5-1.5/1.5-2.5/4-6 mm²4300-3202 43202 - - - Like 4300-3146, but crimps are lower and wider4300-3709 43709 - - - 6.3 mm Flag Terminals 0.75-2.5 mm²4300-3427 43427 - - - 6.3 mm Flag Terminals 1.0-2.5 mm²4300-3348 43348 - - - 8mm Flag Terminals 1.0-2.5 mm²Closed Barrel====================================================================================================================================4300-3241 43241 - 4300-3241 - Non-insulated connectors 4-6/10 mm²4300-3142 43142 62000112 - OKB0560 Non Insulated connectors 0.5-6 mm²4300-3137 43137 62000113 4300-3137 OKB0725 Non-Insulated connectors 0.75-2.5mm²4300-3139 43139 62000114 - OWB4099 Non-Insulated connectors 4-10 mm²Coaxial====================================================================================================================================4300-3136 43136 62000123 4300-3136 OCC1113 RG58, RG59, RG62AU, BNC/TNC Coax connectors4300-3141 43141 62000121 - OFO5432 SMA, SMB, SFR, ST, SC Fiber Optic connectors4300-3140 43140 62000122 4300-3140 OCC0908 RG174, RG179, BNC/TNC Coax connectors4300-3138 43138 62000124 4300-3138 - RG6, Belden 1694A, Twinax BNC, CATV F type connectors4300-3386 43386 - - - CATV connectors RG6, 59 Sqr 1.72/Hex 8.23 mm4300-3181 43181 - - - BNC, TNC connectors RG6, Belden 8281, 1694A Hex 1.73/8.23/6.48 mm4300-3247 43247 - - - BNC, TNC connectors Sqr 0.7 Hex 3.85/3.25 mm4300-3182 43182 - - - BNC, TNC connectors Sqr 1.07 Hex 8.23/6.48 mm4300-3249 43249 - - - BNC, TNC connectors Sqr 1.72 Hex 5.41 mm4300-3459 43459 - - - BNC, TNC connectors Sqr 0.73/1.72 Hex 3.25/4.30/5.41 mm4300-3460 43460 - - - BNC, TNC connectors Sqr 1.20 Hex 3.25/4.52/5.41 mm4300-3404 43404 - - - BNC, TNC connectors Hex 1.73/2.03/2.54/10.90 mm4300-3403 43403 - - - BNC connectors on BT 2002, 2003 cable Hex 1.46/5.18/6.81 mmProprietary=====================================================================================================================================4300-3727 43727 - - - Metri-Pack 150 & 280 type connectors 0.75-1.5/2.5-4.0/4.0-6.0 mm²4300-3242 43242 - - - Weather Pack type connectors 0.5-0.8/1.0-2.0/3 mm²4300-3706 43706 - - - Automotive type connectors with Wire Seal 0.5-1.5/1.5-2.5/4.0-6.0 mm²4300-3707 43707 - - - Automotive type connectors wrap-around crimp 0.5-1.5/1.5-2.5/4.0-6.0 mm²4300-3708 43708 - - - Automotive type connectors over-lap crimp 0.5-1.5/1.5-2.5/4.0-6.0 mm²4300-3541 43541 - - - Solarlok, turned pin type, 2.5-4.0/6.0 mm²4300-3540 43540 - 4300-3540 - MC3 Ø3mm, turned pin type, 2.5-4.0/6.0 mm²4300-3539 43539 - 4300-3539 - MC4 Ø4mm, open barrel type, 2.5/4.0/6.0 mm²4300-3426 43426 - - - TE/AMP Timer type connectors without Wire Seal 0.5-1.0/1.0-2.5/2.5-4.0 mm²4300-3425 43425 - - - TE/AMP Timer type connectors with Wire Seal 0.5-1.0/1.0-2.5/2.5-4.0 mm²4300-3428 43428 - - - TE/AMP SuperSeal 1.5 System type connectors with Wire Seal 0.75-1.25/1.5 mm²That's a whopping 46 dies in totalThough to be fair there is some overlap. And here's a list ofsomeof the different brand names these can be found under:Pressmaster MCTWiha PortaCrimpLapp Kabel Mobile Crimp ToolCembre IDTElpress MobileAbiko MobileAgain, I would love to hear if you know of others!

author: RayRay
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 12:21:01 pm
content: Personally, I tin the wire a bit, dip it in a lil bit of flux, put it into the "free area" (just before the actual connector) and solder it into place.I know most people wouldn't bother doing it this way though, but I just like the extra stability it provides.

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 07:40:36 am
content: I've soldered terminals plenty of times too, but there is something to the fact that soldering stranded wire can create a joint that fatigues and breaks easier. If the solder wicks up the stranded wire past the connector it can end up causing the wire to break eventually with repeated movement/vibration. These days I usually make crimped joints for stranded wire when using terminals.

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 09:51:16 am
content: when a cable is made to be moveable I always use a crimped connection, because a solder joint will crack/breakI only solder a cable if it is intended to be fix (stationary) after soldering

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2017, 03:49:02 am
content: Quote from: RayRay on February 09, 2017, 12:21:01 pmFWIW, both the electrical conductivity and mechanical properties of aproper crimpis superior to solder (proper solder joint vs. proper crimp).Generally speaking I've discovered those that are opposed to crimping/think it's inferior, haven't seen or executed a proper crimp IME. And in terms of skill, it's my experience that more people can make a decent solder joint vs. a proper crimp (i.e. thin steel stripping & crimping pliers;example). This issue isn't helped by the fact that the tools recommended by terminal manufacturers are horribly expensive (i.e. 1 ratcheting crimp tool costs the same or more than a proper soldering station).This is why there's a market for ratcheting crimp tools that accept multiple dies IMHO (for us hobbyists and/or field techs). The trade-off of course, is the user requires additional knowledge as to how to execute a proper crimp terminal for whatever die & terminal being used (strip length, correct die for the terminal being used, and proper use of crimp tool.Another trick is to keep an eye out on eBay for terminal manufacturers' recommended tooling (= get it for pennies on the dollar). You do need to know what you're doing however.

author: Lomax
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2017, 06:37:08 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 11, 2017, 03:49:02 amFWIW, I've recently been doing some Mini-Fit JR plugs, and they crimped very well with the 4300-3151 die. I've also done some Micro-Fit ones using the 4300-3150 die, with quite usable results. The Mini-Fit connectors don't wrap the insulation the way (I believe) they're designed to do, but rather crimp into it, but it looks just fine to me - and I am unable to pull the cable out of the crimp.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2017, 12:12:28 am
content: Quote from: Lomax on February 14, 2017, 06:37:08 pmPics please.

author: Lomax
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2017, 01:53:31 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 15, 2017, 12:12:28 amYour wish is my command.

author: Lomax
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2017, 02:02:30 am
content: And btw, I remembered wrong; it's the Micro-Fit that comes out nearly perfect, while the Mini-Fit JR is "acceptable". There is some deformation of the body due to the crimp being too "flat". And obviously, in both cases, the dimpled top part of the die causes the strain relief part to cut into the insulation. Neither would be acceptable in a critical application, but they're good enough for me - especially considering that the dies were ~$30 rather than the $800 a genuine tool would cost.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2017, 03:05:36 am
content: Definitely wouldn't pass aerospace standards, but would be fine for most anything else (vehicle wire harnesses, ground wire lug/screw, ...).As per tools, you can get some really high quality used ones on eBay if you're patient.

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2017, 06:06:04 am
content: Yeah you've gotta watch that when the connector gets bit in to the insulation rather than wrapped - it can cause a severe stress riser on the wire if they bite in too far, resulting in a very weak point that will easily break right at the point where the connector bites in with any pulling out flexure at all on the wire. It's mostly a factor on the very small gage wire though. The larger ones are tough enough so that it doesn't weaken them appreciably.I once tried crimping some 32 AWG connections with a cheap crimper and the wires were breaking at the ends of connectors left and right. Looked at the crimp under the scope and it was obvious what the problem was right away.

author: Lomax
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2017, 12:45:40 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 15, 2017, 03:05:36 amDamn, so you mean that satellite I've been working on can't be launched now?Quote from: nanofrog on February 15, 2017, 03:05:36 amYeah, I'm a bit of an eBay-holic - and definitely a tool fetishist. If there was a particular crimp that I useda lotI might be tempted, but unfortunately space is somewhat limited. That's one of the reasons I like the MCT so much; it fits in a single Raaco service case with all the dies and a bunch of other stuff. Another Raaco case holds all my crimp terminals.Quote from: eKretz on February 15, 2017, 06:06:04 amNot saying it can't happen, but I've personallyneverseen it. One issue that does occur is if you don't insert the terminal all the way in the die, then the die will crush the connector end, because the dies are made for longer crimps, if that makes any sense. This can be avoided by selecting a die with a shorter conductor crimp section, and making sure that the insulator portion rests against the start of the conductor section before crimping. This wouldn't be a problem with the official tool of course.Side note: Whenever the terminal housing allows for it, I slip a heat-shrink sleeve over the strain relief part of the terminal after crimping, but before assembly. This works well for both Mini-Fit JR and Micro-Fit terminals, unless you use the thickest wire gauge allowed.

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2017, 06:50:28 pm
content: Lucky you, I've seen it happen many times on small gage wire. It's especially common when people use those crimpers with no positive stop limit or with the stop adjusted wrong.

author: dqgf
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 18, 2019, 04:54:37 am
content: Hello,I'm sorry that I am resurrecting an old thread, but it seems to be the most comprehensive one on the topic of crimpers.Thing is, I'm looking for a set of crimpers with dies that could be used for automotive repairs. Something that could do DIN uninsulated splice, open barrel connectors and later Metri Pack connectors and is available in Europe. I'm far from a professional user and getting a Pressmaster or Knipex would get too expensive.So far I was looking on YouTube, but it is filled with videos from people claiming years of experience in the industry, proceeding to crimp an insulated terminal backwards and pronouncing the end result to be excellent. (That doesn't surprise me much, I already had to do repairs on my car after a similar "professional work".)I found an inexpensive crimper with a nice range of available dies, sold under different more or less reputable brand names. The dies look like these:https://rhinotools.com.au/product/h3-superseal-die/...crimpers with them are sold as a Snap-on QC25, Würth 0714107920, Narva 56523﻿, Toolcraft 430461, Blue-point whatever, Pro-point SKU 8355331, Rhino Tools, Kimball Midwest . . . the list goes on and on. Sometimes the frame is different (Toolcraft 1423549), but my question is:Has anyone have any expirience with these dies? Would they provide me solid crimps that I shouldn't be ashamed of?Thanks

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2019, 11:11:12 am
content: If it helps those dies appear to be the same as the Astro Pneumatic 9477/9478 system (referred to this post). They look acceptable.Note that Astro Pneumatic (www.astrotools.com) is not the same as Astro Tool Corp (www.astrotool.com), who makes MIL DTL spec tooling.

author: Nivr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 31, 2019, 10:30:04 am
content: Quote from: Lomax on February 06, 2017, 02:27:21 amWow, thanks!! I'm also a MCT addict, beautiful toolHave you seen the Gedore branded ones? I have a set like this, with 9 dies total. Always on the lookout for morehttp://up.picr.de/25253482nm.jpgYou can search for partnumbers 8140-xx; with xx going from 01 -> 25, I believe.Here you can find an overview:http://gedoreuk.com/default/products-1/gedore-2012/pliers-range/crimp-wrench-modularWhen you look around a bit, some dies can be had for reasonable prices, like these weatherpack ones for €54.https://www.voelkner.de/products/1313637/Gedore-8140-20-1963384-Crimpeinsatz-Lamellenkontakt-0.5-bis-3mm.htmlHowever, I still need to find some flag terminals/metri-pack/superseal dies on the cheap, usually they are up in the €200 range.I do quite a bit of automotive work, but funnily enough, I wouldn't know where to use the "Automotive type connectors". On spark plug wires?All I see on cars is metri/weather/superseal or Deutsch connectors (how to crimp those btw?)

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 09:06:03 am
content: I've been using these for years without any complications.And you don't need 2 separate tools to do a simple job.Why spend hundreds of dollars on a tool when a 30 dollar one will do the job just a well.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 01:08:24 pm
content: Because they don't do the job as well. That's why they make tools for the purpose.

author: mikeinkcmo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 29, 2019, 12:48:14 pm
content: I useTHESE

author: bluey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2019, 09:18:49 am
content: Knipex 97 43 200 A€77 from conrad at presentTruckloads (?several hundred according to web page) of dies from rennsteig, who sells the same crimp tool.https://www.rennsteig.com/en/products/crimping/838-dies-and-locators

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2019, 06:35:37 pm
content: Quote from: bluey on October 08, 2019, 09:18:49 amThat is a pretty good price for a very good tool. I asked an AMP mechanical engineer about it one time, and I could hear him practically swoon at the other end of the line.