Difficulty determening correct replacement fuse for Goobay 65331 USB-C charger. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Wingman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 03, 2025, 08:47:02 pm
content: Wasn't planning on repairing this charger, but when I popped it open just to see what had failed, I found out that the fuse was faulty/dead. (No continuity/no measurable resistence.)I temporarily bypassed/'bridged' the fuse and did a (very) quick test just to see if the charger gave an output again (which it did) an if it was worth the effort to do a quick/cheap repair.The fuse used seems to be (roughly) a 1808/2410 size fuse (I measured 5,71x2,66x2,66mm) and is rated for 2A. Given that it's in a small piece of electronics, I assume it's probably a (very) Fast Blow fuse. Given that it's a european adapter (technically it says 100-240V), I made the assumption that it might be a 250VAC fuse.Close-up photo from the current fuse:And more of an overal view:From what I've read it should be fine replacing a 125VAC fuse with a 250VAC, but the other way around is not recommended.(Am I incorrectly or partially informed?)Just as a starting point I browsed the website of LittleFuse, which gave a lot results which almost fit all the criteria, but almost all were listed as 125VAC. I did find a couple 250VAC fuses, but (almost) all were Slow Blow or 'Time Lag'.I've browsed Aliexpress for some more 'affordable options', since the (reputable) webshops here in Europe, charge huge shipping fees, making it financially not worth it to invest in this charger.There are TONS of listings on AE of 1808/2410 0451 fuses that seem to fit, but some have them listed as 125V while others say they're 125V and are also 250V.Besides that, I have no clue how reliable and accurate these fuses are.So, all in all, what can I do to find a SMD fuse that could/should work in this instance?If more information, photos or details are needed, I would gladly provide them!

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2025, 12:26:32 am
content: Quote from: Wingman on July 03, 2025, 08:47:02 pmCorrectHere is one 2A 250V fast fuse:https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Disposable-fuses_Shenzhen-JDT-Fuse-JFC2410-1200FS_C136365.htmlYou could also solder in a leaded fuse like this, assuming you have a little space:https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Disposable-fuses_Littelfuse-39212000000_C142678.html?s_z=n_C142678I would look around in the junk bin or see what can be pulled from other products.Its a little suspicious why the fuse blew in the first place, supposedly the charger has OPP/OTP/SCP.

author: Wingman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 04, 2025, 09:13:10 am
content: Good find/suggestion that JFC2410-1200FS, since it seems to be a 'perfect fit'. Price (including shipping) is also the best I've come across so far (except some dubiously cheap AE listings....).I came across a shop on Aliexpress which offers that specific serie from JFC and claims that they are 100% original (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007345159224.html), which is even a bit cheaper with shipping fee included. (But not a 100% guarantee it are originals ofcourse.)QuoteI recently reduced the parts bin substantially, since I hadn't done much with it for a while and didn't expect I would use it for the considerable future. Stupid move in hindsight!QuoteMy thoughts exactly and that is also part of the reason I want to spend as little on it as possible. For now it's more my curiousity to making it work again and see wat will happen whit some extensive testing.But I'm certainly going to order the JFC2410-1200FS fuses and going to give it a try and see if the charger will hold up!Thanks again for your help thm_w!

author: BILLPOD
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2025, 01:33:53 pm
content: Good Morning Wingman, After unsoldering the blown fuse, and before soldering in the new one, I recommend soldering 2 short pieces of wire to the fuse pads. Then connect your DMM, in 10 Amp setting, and then turn on the device to see how much the fuse is being subjected to. There may be a draw very close to 2 Amps, caused by another failed component. There should be some 'Head Room' with the fuse size because of possible surges during the operation of the charger, (especially at turn-on).

author: Wingman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 11:41:01 am
content: Sorry for my slow reply, I had some issues to deal with.QuoteGood point, forgot to think about that!I will check that out!

author: Wingman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 03:02:30 pm
content: Quote from: BILLPOD on July 04, 2025, 01:33:53 pmThat last part seems to be spot on; I measured up to max. 2,740A as a short peak/surge at turn on. That surge peak level isn't constantly, it fluctuates a bit, but on several tests/attempts it peaked above 2 amps.I measured it in a 'slightly different way'*as described though, but it should at least give a "good enough" indication that there is at least a noticable surge.*I measured it using a clamp meter, given that I still had that 'bypass' on the fuse, which is not visible on my photos above. I did a quick bypass using a 1,5mm wide strip of copper solder wick, soldered on top of the failed fuse. I used the Fnirsi DMC-100 clamp meter, which I know is not the best one out there, but as an upside: it does registers/records the max. amp draw. Might not be the most accurate into the really small numbers, but registering several peaks well above 2A, should be enough of an indication that something is not right I think.