Service Manuals for Siemens washingmacines? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2015, 10:56:30 am
content: I have an Siwamat WXLM1451DN/16 washingmaschine that stops mid-cycle, if I stop the maschine, and start again, it most often completes the full cycle.I have been googling around, but cannot find any schematics or info about this, I think, How hard could it be to fix thisAnyone who knows if there is info out on the internet?

author: Towger
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2015, 12:08:11 pm
content: Worn carbon brushes on the motor would be the main cause of stopping mid cycle.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2015, 12:31:06 pm
content: Quote from: Towger on October 14, 2015, 12:08:11 pmHow?the machine wash and comes to the spin cycle, and instead of spinning it stops. (Always, have done this couple of months now)When I turn the machine off, and then on, it completes everything.I would think an sensor or actuator could be the problem, if it's the brushes, wouldn't it be problems the whole way?, atleast, the brushes should be an easy fix though.The machine is 9 years old now, used once a week, so maybe brushes should be checked anyway.I found some other tips earlier, if the machine would complete the cycle on cold wash, it could be the heating element, but the same things happens on cold was also.One day the machine stopped everytime on the same point (There is an led showing where in the program it is, and instead of showing an steady light for the progrm, it blinks at the point where it stops), Anyway, after three retries, I observed that there was lot of water in the machine that haven't been pumped out, so I manualle selected pump, emptied the water, and started again, then it finished the cycle.So wonder if there is something around there, sensor for knowing if the water is pumped out, or something that starts the pump..If only the bathroom was bigger, I could have taken it apart a bit to check the obvious parts.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2015, 01:10:12 pm
content: Does it stop with water inside?Check the pump and the pressure sensor that is used to measure the water height.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2015, 03:04:52 pm
content: Quote from: PA0PBZ on October 14, 2015, 01:10:12 pmAha!The pump works, since I can manually select pump to remove the water.but the pressure sensor, that can be something to check, I saw some videos about it, but didn't understand the meaning of it, will try to find some info on how to test it.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2015, 03:59:51 pm
content: You will find the pressure sensor lurking under the top. Round disc with wires coming out the top and a rubber hose from underneath. Disconnect power and gently remove the rubber hose, then blow through the hose to clear the blockage in it, either half way up or in the bottom section. Connect again and it should work well again. It gets a build up of sludge from the washing powder in it.Take the machine afterwards, pour a gallon of white vinegar into the drum, with no clothing in it. Then select the hottest program and a full drum of water, and run through a cycle of the machine to clear all the sludge out of it.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2015, 05:58:26 pm
content: Quote from: neslekkim on October 14, 2015, 03:04:52 pmYes, the pump can work (partly) but if it takes too long to empty that could be the problem, some machines check this.Just open it and make sure there are no coins, buttons or hamsters in there

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2015, 09:02:44 pm
content: Quote from: PA0PBZ on October 14, 2015, 05:58:26 pmYes, that part of the pump, in the front I have opened to check, but could of course check more of it.I know there have been some items with the clothes a couple of times that should not be there.. like tissue paper, but newer found it in the pump, only on all of the clothes.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2015, 09:03:53 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on October 14, 2015, 03:59:51 pmGreat tips!, will try this, just need an friend first to lift out the dryer, hope it's as easy as this.

author: Tomorokoshi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2015, 05:30:49 am
content: I just replaced the brushed on an Asko washer. Been doing that about every 5 years.The failure takes place over a couple months. It starts with the occasional failure, and then gets worse. Similar symptoms with stopping somewhere in the middle.It seems that at higher speeds the brushes bounce on the commutator, which because the extension of the spring means there isn't as much force as there should be just when it needs it. This can make the motor do strange things.A brush set is probably around $20.http://www.nettoparts.dk/shop/motorkul-siemens-vaskemaskine-13522p.htmlhttp://sparesonweb.co.uk/shop/carbon-brush-siemens-44680p.htmlInteresting how both those web sites seem to use the same engine.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 06:36:07 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on October 14, 2015, 03:59:51 pmFinally I got some help, and got access to the machine.opened the top, and took out the pressure sensor, it looks nice and clean, blowed into it and the switch inside clicked.Also measured the connectors on it, it has four connections, and three of them seems to have an function, not sure what the fourth is.On the picture, if the connections are 1, 2, 3 and 4, then when I blow, 1 and 2 are connected, and 2 and 3 are connected, cannot find any function with 4, if I suck, I cant find anything happening.But I cannot find any information on how it should work, should it have function both ways?The hose going up to the unit looks also whole and clean, doesnt look like any detergent coming up that way.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 06:42:42 pm
content: Quote from: neslekkim on November 15, 2015, 06:36:07 pmSucking should not make anything happen, but there should be at least 2 stages when you blow into it, one for each water level.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 06:53:07 pm
content: oh.... should one need to blow hard?

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 07:27:14 pm
content: Quote from: neslekkim on November 15, 2015, 06:53:07 pmOh dear... this thread is going weirdThe first point is a gentle breeze, the second one like when you start to blow a balloon - sort of...

author: Deathwish
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 07:28:21 pm
content: Quote from: PA0PBZ on November 15, 2015, 06:42:42 pmI have had many machines where the pressure stat is the problem, as well as a build up of sludge and lime where the pipe from the drum connects to the stat, as PA0PBZ said if you blow into the stat you will hear it click as it ramps round and it will just release as you stop blowing, try blowing down the pipe into the drum too and see if there is any resistance, if so clean out the pipe connector to the drum where it enters the drum.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 07:37:01 pm
content: I thought the two screws on the unit was to take it apart, to check if it was something in it.. I guess not..I think maybe it was for adjusting it instead.. i *think* I screwed them back as they where, but probably not.. anyway, the machine is not washing full cycle, empty, but I wonder if it is too little water in it now, or not. hm..I searched around, and an replacement cost €75 in Norway, but on ebay, It seems like they can be had for €8-€30, if I just can find the right one..Or, how bad can it be that I "adjusted" it a bit?

author: Deathwish
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 07:40:58 pm
content: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=how+to+adjust+a+pressure+stat&rlz=1C1KMZB_enGB556GB556&oq=how+to+adjust+a+pressure+stat&aqs=chrome..69i57.4707j0j7&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8#q=how+to+adjust+a+washing+machine+pressure+stat

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 07:45:24 pm
content: Quote from: neslekkim on November 15, 2015, 07:37:01 pmYou will find out if you adjusted it to shut off just when the water is running out of the top of the machine....Anyway, I did not look at the google link for adjusting yet, but you want 2 levels: 1 for ' normal' wash and one higher for wool and stuff.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 07:48:57 pm
content: Quote from: PA0PBZ on November 15, 2015, 07:45:24 pmcrap, possibly a stupid idea to "adjust" I thinkI guess there is no easy way to adjust these correctly, since one need a given pressure at those two levels.But since the machine now is doing the full cycle, it seems like this is the unit that gave some problems, so need to find another one to replace it then.Btw, found an unused connector on the "computer" behind the frontpanel on the machine... very tempting to attach some wires there to see if I can get access to some serial interface or something.. hmmmm..If only there existed some service docs for these things..

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2015, 11:35:12 am
content: so, after calling siemens, they ALSO said that it had to be the brushes.. so, well, I bought new ones, and are now trying to change them.I could reach the motor from the underside, the opening on the back is tiny, only to remove the belt, and unscrew the motor, but the motor seem to be stuckAnyway, I took out one brush, and compared to the new one.. They must last longer than this?Edit: And after changing the brushes, puting an new pressureswitch in, and the machine stops again at the same spot..

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2015, 05:51:30 pm
content: I have a feeling you may have more success finding a manual in German instead of English.

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2015, 06:25:58 pm
content: I've found the white goods industry even worse than the Chinese T&M manufacturers and Apple at not releasing schematics/service information, even to proper third party service shops who are willing to pay. I would expect better from the likes of Siemens than, say, Beko, but I think they manufacture them all with deliberate engineered to fail parts that even if you do diagnose a replacement are priced outlandishly and close if not more than a brand new machine replacement.The EU is doing all it can to impose carbon taxes, RoHS, etc. Both the USA and EU have forced the car manufacturers to release service information to third parties. They need to do the same with all large volume manufacturers of electronics goods. Bringing back a service industry is a bloody good way to stop the chuck it into landfill mentality our zero interest rate debt fueled economy encourages.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2015, 06:28:24 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on November 21, 2015, 05:51:30 pmYes, trying that alsoThe same machine seems to be sold as an Bosch also, with the same number wxlm1451dn16, same parts, I checked the lists.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2015, 08:32:02 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on November 21, 2015, 05:51:30 pmJust go online and find a white goods repair forum. Lots of them with good information and detailed descriptions on how to take stuff apart. Besides that most machines aren't complex because they have to be assembled correctly by idiots.

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2015, 11:17:21 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on November 21, 2015, 08:32:02 pmIn the old days this was the case. When they switched from electro-mechanical timers to simple PLC based stuff it was the same. Now they have proprietary microcontroller code that will once registering a fault keep that fault condition on for example. Door lock failed to operate as intended? Replacement requires a factory re-program, etc. Of course this is probably justified by "Health & Safety", I mean a failed interlock is a major health hazard... But the reality is they just want to make sure that when the machine ever fails, then it FAILS. A new one needs to be purchased. Only if it is under the 12 month warranty does it make it cost effective for the manufacturer, and them alone, to flash the reset code after replacing a £2 part.