Is there such a thing as a Lab Power Supply with a decent UI? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 07:51:30 am
content: I've been looking around at another lab power supply and man am I ever unimpressed with the UI on all that I have seen so far.I'd like 2 or 3 outputs. Power between 50-100WCurrently I have a Rigol DP832. I have pretty much no complaints with it's function and features. However the UI, both physical and screen is awful.The setpoints for V and I are teeny tiny on screen with unlabeled buttons to set them.I have looked at a few options out there.The Siglent has a very nice screen with large readout. However the screen doesn't display the setpoints all the time which I don't like. The other problem with it, is that the banana jacks seem to be pretty janky with non standard spacing and out of tolerance bore. I'm also a little leery of the slider to select the CH3 voltage. Also the screen turns off after a while. No thanks.The R&S looks very nice, but very expensive. It has some great sequencing and ramp features that the others don't haveHowever the screen once again doesn't show all the data all the time. The dedicated LABELED buttons to set V and I are very nice.The keysight power supplies look like they last got an update when McGuyver was on its first run.the GW Instek PPH-1503D looks ok. I like the sense terminal on the front. Once again, the setpoints are teeny tiny. Weirdly, CH-2 only seems to be on the rear.Things I'd like:As large as possible display of V, I, W, Vset, Iset for each channelDedicated labeled buttons to set both V and Iknob with left and right cursor arrow buttons to set the values. Numpad optional.Sense on front would be nice.Separate on/off switch for each channel.It would be nice if it accepted shrouded bananasLinear of course.If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears!I really think there is a gap in the market for a power supply with a sane UI

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 08:18:59 am
content: Rhys, I have SPD3303X-E on hand, come and have a play with one, of course with no obligation to buy.I too was concerned about the reportedly loose banana sockets, they are a bit until a plug isfullyinserted.If you want I can check specific things in the UI.

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 08:29:57 am
content: Thanks for the offer Tautech. I'll see how I get on. I might just have to come and take a look at some point.

author: Assafl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 08:39:10 am
content: I guess the industry is at the stage of the game where the display is still a replacement for 7-segment or alphanumeric LEDs and application specific LCD displays (which were replacements for analog meters).In the future, UI will be skin-able. So that if you want a prominent Watts vs. Volts vs Set-Volt, you could assign real estate to it on the display. A good example for skin-able 'real estate' in embedded software is the Garmin Sports and Bicycle GPS - where you can decide to have a large BPM, small mileage, and a mid size elevation graph.I don't think it is a question of "if" it will happen. I think it is a question of "when".

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 08:56:08 am
content: I think you might be right.You have no idea how tempting it is for me to build my own, but I have no time nor space for a project of that size right now!

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 09:04:29 am
content: I'm a big fan of good old fashioned analog knobs. I like analog meters too when they're good ones, but good quality analog meters are hard to find anymore. Sure, digital is more precise, but how precisely do you really need to set a power supply generally? Big bright LED displays are nice too. I'm not a fan of the fancy color TFT displays, as you've noted, the UI usually sucks, they're form over function, meant to look fancy and modern at the expense of usability. Good linear bench power supplies have not really changed much in 40 years. For some uses fancy programmable features are nice but I rarely find a need for anything like that.

author: H.O
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 10:02:39 am
content: Hi,I agree that the setpoint display on the DP832 is small but I don't quite understand what you mean/want with "dedicated buttons". I find it rather intuitive to set both the voltage and current limit using the numeric keys. To set the voltage of channel 2 to 3.3V, 0.5A current limit press  enter 3.3V, 0.5A, done. On the R&S it looks like you need to muck around with the SHIFT key to access the numeric keys but I've never actually used one so I don't know.I think I would have preferred a "normal" numeric keypad over the old telephone style they went for (and got a lot of heat for) but I don't think it's that bad really.Anyway, don't want to start yet another my unit is better than yours (besides we both have the same unit), I'm just curious what it is you find unintuitive with the way you set U & I on it.EDIT: I guess one COULD create an external control box for it (or any programmable PSU) with whatever UI features needed if you really wanted. Of course, if a unit with those features already exists then what's the point...

author: Messtechniker
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 10:32:22 am
content: Modding in a VGA output would certainly make for a good project.Time permitting of course.

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 10:37:27 am
content: I was actually mistaken, the R&S does not have dedicated buttons for setting V and I. The rigol does have them in a way, but you have to peer at the screen to double check which one it is, because they are multi use buttons. I think the rigol is kinda the best of a bad bunch. It could just have been a lot better! I thought someone might know of the perfect unit out there somewhere Sent from my phone using Tapatalk

author: julian1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 10:37:36 am
content: QuoteI love the simple design and form of the R&S, so I went looked for a teardown. It's actually a switcher,Quotepdf,https://www.elektormagazine.com/files/attachment/48

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 10:39:44 am
content: @ JulianHuh! Was not expecting that.Although I did pause on the brochure where it mentioned something about efficiency and thought "wonder what they are on about there" now it makes perfect sense.Sent from my phone using Tapatalk

author: djnz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 11:08:48 am
content: I am not sure if I like fancy displays on power supplies.The power producing portion of a good power supply will last decades, perhaps much longer than the manufacturing lifecycle of the sku. The display could (will?) fail earlier, and with custom fancy displays, finding replacements becomes hard if the power supply is out of production. I am not sure the utility of custom shiny LCDs outweighs this pretty big con.

author: H.O
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 11:18:27 am
content: QuoteI still don't understand what you mean....Press the button for the channel you want to set, enter 12.5V, 1.25A and you're done. How can it be made more intuitive?Do you mean you want dedicated buttons that "connects" the rotary knob to a specific setting? If so, have you tried simply pressing V or A and then rotating the knob (I haven't so I don't know if it works).

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 11:25:31 am
content: The best bench power supply UI is (imho):2 LED displays (actual U / I ) per main channel2 knobs (10 turns pot) for set U / set I per channel (set I may be a single turn pot)a simple pushbutton to read set U / I per channel2 main channels 0.., 30 to 50V and 0 ... 1 to 5 Amps (maybe more than one unit to fulfill all useful ranges)the typical 5 Volts aux channel isn't neccessary imho+ output connector right or above - output connector (this is very important to me)You will find some older types from Toellner, Heinzinger, Delta elektronika wich fullfill most of the requirements. I don't like the HP / Agilent style (output connectors swapped)

author: john61ct
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 01:55:15 pm
content: Anyone know of Linux- Raspberry Pi-Arduino controlled PSU hardware?

author: Awesome14
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 04:54:07 pm
content: I use the Soresen XTS quad. It's four discrete supplies in one chassis. The individual supplies are available in 7.5V 8A, 15V 4A, 30V 2A, 60V 1A, 120V 0.5A. Any combination of those five is available in the quad units. Each unit has a large LED readout for V and I to 3 digits.Accuracy is <= 1mV, and I've tested it. Each unit can be configured with GPIB, serial, and/or Ethernet. Each discrete unit has front tellurium-copper bananas, including 'sense', and the rear has output and sense screw terminals.There is no indication for 'set' values, except the display. You just fiddle with the knobs until it's set the way you want. The V pot is 10-turn and the I is 1-turn. The supplies are linear, fanless, and programmable via PC connection.I have (2) XTS-15-4 quad supplies.You can also put the individual supplies in serial for combined voltage, or parallel for combined current. The unit I'm running has been up for at least 2 years, 24/7. These machines have a US Military specification.New they are prohibitively expensive: 2,800.00USD range! But on eBay they go for ~300.00USD for the lower voltages, up to ~1,000.00USD for the higher ones. The discrete units are also sold individually.I purchased a 60V 1A single for my Dad for his birthday. These supplies are made for industrial and military use. They all bear the name Sorensen, but have been manufactured by several companies, including Raytheon, Xantrex, and Ametek.The Raytheon are the oldest. The ones I have are Xantrex. The newest are Ametek. For linear supplies they're pretty efficient, but there's only so far you can go with that. And <=1mV is not spectacular, but then you're getting into voltage references.I used to have PSUs all over the place. After I found these I got rid of most of them. And, if your looking for a great UI for any instrument, connecting it to a PC is going to give the BEST UI. However, software can be pricey!

author: iainwhite
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 05:04:22 pm
content: Quote from: john61ct on February 16, 2017, 01:55:15 pmPrasimix's open source power supply ->https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/diy-programmable-dual-channel-bench-psu-0-50v3a/(uses an Arduino )

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 09:01:36 pm
content: Quote from: Dubbie on February 16, 2017, 08:29:57 amThere's been changes to the SDP3033X series UI....pic from a brand new unit showing the default display. (Websites need updating. Grrrr)

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 09:20:33 pm
content: I have to agree with what appears to be the growing majority trend... Analogue knobs.I see no point in keypads, fancy TFT displays and encoders (that Rigol (?) one that appears in Dave's videos looks apalling!) Personally I prefer coarse and fine adjustments to multi-turn, just quicker to set (but much easier to disturb too). Simultaneous Voltage and Current displays and current limit indication. I can't see any point in displaying Watts either, it just distracts from the important information.For specialist needs you might want GPIB, digital setup etc. but not for a general Lab supply.

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 09:47:40 pm
content: Tautech,Thats looking much better!Can you also confirm that the screen stays on?Also that the binding posts are better quality?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 10:29:03 pm
content: Quote from: Dubbie on February 16, 2017, 09:47:40 pmYes the Binding posts have been changed I have been told.I never had any of the early units so I have no comparison with the later units but I have never had any comments from customers that they were too loose. The first portion of insertion appears very loose but I can assure you the last portion to push it home is NOT, there's no way in hell a lead would ever fall out or become disconnected in normal use without a darn good yank.Siglent America in a post I found earlier confirmed the binding posts have been upgraded.The screensaver is still the same BUT is under some discussion behind the scenes.We're asking for it to be dropped but as there's not a Menu structure in these units ATM so to provide for screensaver off/on selectability it's unsure how it will be addressed. Dropped I hope.See Reply #35

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 10:56:37 pm
content: Why would someone put a screensaver on a LCD screen? Screensavers are to prevent phosphor burn on CRT displays, there is no reason to have one on LCD, there is no phosphor to burn.

author: JonM
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 04:35:37 am
content: There is the EEZ H24005: Open Source Bench Power Supply project currently on CrowdSupply. If you don't like the UI you can change it. I'm in for one full kit myself.https://www.crowdsupply.com/envox/eez-h24005/updates/production-planning-and-nearing-third-stretch-goalhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/crowd-funded-projects/preparing-eez-h24005-for-crowdfunding/75/

author: kcbrown
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 04:43:42 am
content: Quote from: james_s on February 16, 2017, 10:56:37 pmA "screensaver" that merely displays some sort of pattern or something is worthless on an LCD.But a screensaver that turns off the backlight is an entirely different thing altogether, since LEDs have a limited brightness half-life (or something approximating one). Of course, whether the LCD lasts long enough for the LED lifetime to matter is a different question ...

author: Assafl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 06:24:34 am
content: A decent encoder is cheaper than a decent multi-turn.A decent keyboard is cheaper than two decent potentiometers.An LCD (or even a TFT display - and in the near future - OLED displays) are cheaper than an LED display with drivers and large PCBs required. LEDs are cheaper than decent d'Arsonval movements.The BOM is substantially cheaper to have the "digital" controls - which are okay - but lack the "tactile" feedback of real analog controls and the confidence inspiring analog displays.But we do get Watt readings and other goodies that the analog stuff sucks at....

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 09:07:05 am
content: Quote from: kcbrown on February 17, 2017, 04:43:42 amMuch more useful would be something that dims the backlight without turning it completely off, and make it user-controllable. Better yet, use reasonable quality LEDs, it's possible to get 50k or more hours out of a decent quality and properly used LED, I have LED bulbs installed in 2011 that run dusk till dawn every day and still look just as bright as the day I installed them. Personally I'd still rather just have regular 7 segment LEDs, non-phosphor LEDs in the traditional colors almost never fail. There are lots of digital clocks from the 70s-80s that are still going strong with 24/7 service.

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 09:31:26 am
content: @jonM, That's an interesting project! It's a shame it's not a nice quiet linear supplySent from my phone using Tapatalk

author: boggis the cat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 10:37:40 am
content: Quote from: tautech on February 16, 2017, 10:29:03 pmWhy not just use a button-hold on power-up to select options like this? Works for DMMs.

author: jleg
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 11:55:57 am
content: Quote from: Dubbie on February 17, 2017, 09:31:26 am...it's "linear to some degree":Hybrid power stage (switching pre-regulator, linear post-regulator) with possibility to bypass pre-regulator for low ripple mode of operationhttp://www.envox.hr/eez/bench-power-supply/psu-techology-overview.html

author: john61ct
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 01:07:48 pm
content: Would these DIY Arduino be easily adaptable for say 50-100A charging output @~14V?I assume telling it to stop when CV gets down to say 3 A would be trivial?Any reasonable-value OTS units do this? Timer based, X min after target voltage reached would be acceptable.Fancy UI not relevant to me compared to price, functional/longevity quality.

author: cnqhdszq
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 01:17:08 pm
content: Powersupplys in my hand all use multi-turn or pertentiometers.I like it

author: Ducttape
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 02:35:35 pm
content: Quote from: Dubbie on February 16, 2017, 09:47:40 pmI bought one a few months ago and can confirm that the binding posts are absolutely fine on mine. Snug. And there's nothing odd/loose about the initial part of insertion either. Non issue. Does anyone actually think a manufacturer would not address such a grievous issue, especially after Dave lambasted them publicly for it?And my baby boomer eyes love the display.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 07:00:20 pm
content: Quote from: boggis the cat on February 17, 2017, 10:37:40 amGreat idea, thanks. Obvious too, I mustn't be getting enough sleep.The top left button, the Display one is to toggle between the default mode and Graph mode and a power up function would be perfect. Let's see how that's received.See Reply #35

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 09:26:00 pm
content: Love my Sorensen power supplies. They're very bulletproof. The screensaver being discussed on the Siglent may be a necessary evil if it's an OLED display. Screen burn-in does occur with OLED when the display is static. My cell phone has an OLED screen and it's plainly visible where the top info bar and the bottom soft buttons are on the screen when the screen is lit all in one color - the differences in brightness/color and the shadows of those aforementioned items is quite visible. And this is only a 3 year old phone.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2017, 09:42:59 pm
content: OLED seems like a poor choice for an application like this where it is expected to display static objects for long periods. LED meters with ordinary red or green segments don't burn, backlit 7 segment LCD displays don't burn, if you really need a graphical display, TFT panels don't burn, though the white backlights can fade over time.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2017, 01:14:59 am
content: So....after updating one of the SPD3303X-E that I've had in stock for a few weeks with the new FW that was released at the end of Decaftermy stock order was dispatched from the factory........guess what, after22.533.54.5 hrs running (untouched) the TFT-LCD display is still lit.....no sign of a screensaver mode.....yet.FW used:http://www.siglentamerica.com/USA_website_2014/Firmware&Software/firmware/SPD3303X-E-Firmware-V100R001B01D02P03.rarI'll run it for an hour or two more...........Test over after 4.5 hrs, display still lit and NO apparent screensaver mode.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2017, 08:01:08 am
content: In a chat with the factory tonight I was informed the manual will be updated with some of the information that has been made/become apparent by actual tests on a new SPD3303X-E in this thread.

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 10, 2017, 08:06:42 am
content: Thanks for following up Tautech.

author: R005T3r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2017, 02:22:08 pm
content: take a look at keithley units, this one might be the best choice:http://www.tek.com/tektronix-and-keithley-dc-power-supplies/keithley-2220-2230-2231-series

author: BloodyCactus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2017, 02:24:41 pm
content: Quote from: R005T3r on March 10, 2017, 02:22:08 pmthose are rebadged ITECH units (bk also rebadge same psu's).Id suggest the AIM TTI MX100!

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 10, 2017, 06:15:19 pm
content: That AIM is exactly what I was after! Thanks very much. I hadn't spotted this one yet. It pretty much ticks every box.(Edit) except it's post regulated switch mode. Does anyone have much experience with this? How much ripple remains?(Edit again) I found the excellent review here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tti-mx100tp-triple-power-supply-teardown-and-review/I think I have found the one!

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2017, 07:18:52 pm
content: Quote from: Dubbie on March 10, 2017, 06:15:19 pmAs a SMPS I wonder about the EMI as opposed to a linear PSU, something MarkL didn't investigate.

author: pitagoras
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 12:49:24 am
content: Old analog PSUs like Power Designs, specially models like 2005 and 2010 have a very nice UI. Exactly what one wants for a bench: intuitively easy to operate,It's very bad modern designers are trapped in menus and buttons for an instrument that should be obvious to operate. But same things happened to photographic cameras when they went digitally controlled.It's not that it cannot be done, but it's apparently too tempting to cut costs with simple buttons, one display, and one encoder.The other day I was discussing in the irc channel with someone (owner of PD 2005A model among others) about the UI for the lab psu I'm building.He was suggesting1) 7 segment led display2) I rotary encoder per digit for V settings (under each digit?)I added3) I encoder only for I limit settingsWith a digitally controlled PSU you have actually 4 values to display, the value set for V a I and the actual value of each, plus it it is in CV or CC mode.I still have to figure out if 4 7-segment displays is not too much to put in a panel.Probably a larger led screen with knobs right under the digits would do.

author: jpb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 10:49:35 am
content: Quote from: pitagoras on March 18, 2017, 12:49:24 amI would have thought that this was a very bad idea. OK for pre-setting but what if you want to gradually increase or decrease Voltage whilst it is attached (something I often do when experimenting). You then have to adjust up to 4 knobs at once!The traditional fine and coarse adjustments work well.

author: alm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 12:12:33 pm
content: I agree that the knob per digit method is not really ideal for a general purpose power supply. If you are using rotary encoders, however, why go for the fine / coarse kludge? In my opinion that came about because multiturn pots are expensive. I would rather emulate the multiturn pot with a high-resolution rotary encoder. Much nicer to use for the gradual increase / decrease (being at the end of the fine adjust range sucks), and rotary encoders do not provide the hard end stop / absolute position anyway.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 04:35:25 pm
content: Quote from: Assafl on February 17, 2017, 06:24:34 amSettablility for a single turn potentiometer or trimmer is better than 1 part in 100. Settability for a 10 turn potentiometer is at least 1 part in 10,000. How many cheap encoders are that good? For the ones I found in a quick search, they exceed the cost of a 10 turn potentiometer starting at 36 pulses per revolution.I could live with a coarse and fine encoder design but agree with Dubbie, modern interfaces are poorly designed.Where did the inexpensive high resolution optical encoders go?Quote from: alm on March 18, 2017, 12:12:33 pmMultiturn pots were also used where stability and linearity were important. I much prefer separate coarse and fine potentiometers because it is faster although I have one instrument which uses a 10 turn potentiometer for coarse and a 1 turn potentiometer for fine.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 04:52:29 pm
content: Quote from: David Hess on March 18, 2017, 04:35:25 pmYou only need one and as was pointed out to me AMS now has some cheap 12 bit magnetic encoders. The AS5601 is especially interesting with it's button press detection.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 06:49:00 pm
content: Quote from: Marco on March 18, 2017, 04:52:29 pmOnly the sensor is inexpensive. Include the rest of it and the development part is $150.

author: pitagoras
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 09:44:19 pm
content: Quote from: jpb on March 18, 2017, 10:49:35 amThe knobs should (well maybe this is not obvious) overflow: increasing the 0.01 encoder when current value is 10.09 should go to 10.10, not 10.00.Moreover the first step of an encoder might reset to theleftright to zeroes, so increasing 0.1 encoder when value is 10.05 should go to 10.10 in the first step, instad of 10.15. This might be sometimes useful and sometimes annoying...This way you could go up and down easily in the range you want (10s of volts, volts, 10E-2 volts, 10E-3 volts).But you made me realize that all one needs is two encoders, probably I would use one for 1V step and one for 0.01V step, with overflow and reset rules as above. If the "fine" were ti be more precise (e.g. 1mv) probably acceleration should be useful.Edited: left -> right

author: jpb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2017, 10:16:39 pm
content: Quote from: pitagoras on March 18, 2017, 09:44:19 pmThat makes more sense, though as you say having 4 is probably over the top. I was thinking of the Voltage reference box that Dave shows in his videos sometimes in which the digits are set separately by separate rotary switches.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2017, 12:28:25 am
content: Quote from: David Hess on March 18, 2017, 06:49:00 pmIf your time is free, just experiment ... and report the results :p AFAICS the datasheet is complete. Diametric magnets, steel rod, bushings, springs ... it's all cheap.

author: AlanS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 01:37:00 am
content: For me it's the Keysight E36313A - John Kenny gives a good overview on YouTube.The second best is the Prasimix's H24005A - a wonderful beast. Its screen is a little small and fiddly with fat fingers and it would benefit from having separate voltage and current knobs - with switches at each output. But still the best affordable P/S I've seen.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 02:36:17 am
content: Quote from: AlanS on March 15, 2019, 01:37:00 amPoor yellow on the display for channel 1.If they want to use yellow, then make the display yellow and NOT olive green.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 03:02:02 am
content: I wonder if they care about the lesson Xcelite learned. Inexplicably, a higher percentage than expected of male technicians and engineers are color blind.

author: CrazyTiger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 02:29:00 pm
content: I did happen to see the new R&S Power Supply NGL200, the UI is looking goodThe price point is about 2K euro for the base modelThe best part is it has 6.5 digit resolutionhttps://www.rohde-schwarz.com/nl/product/ngl200-productstartpage_63493-596117.html*email tag removed

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2019, 10:12:41 pm
content: Quote from: CrazyTiger on March 15, 2019, 02:29:00 pmYou need to have deep pockets for this one:Copy & paste from the website:Starting at EUR30,382,000

author: Caio Negri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2019, 08:27:40 pm
content: Quote from: CrazyTiger on March 15, 2019, 02:29:00 pmI find it weird that the 2-ch model doesn't have sense terminals on the front.

author: AlanS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 07:54:39 am
content: Poor yellow on the display for channel 1.If they want to use yellow, then make the display yellow and NOT olive green.Hmmm. Didn't notice that on the video - but the real thing is a lot better.

author: colorado.rob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 05:17:37 pm
content: Quote from: CrazyTiger on March 15, 2019, 02:29:00 pmThe price is not horrible considering it is a two-quadrant device, able to sink current. It is a shame that Ethernet is a $$$ option and not standard.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 06:45:23 pm
content: Quote from: AlanS on March 17, 2019, 07:54:39 amI was going to say that as well - the yellow is much better than what is shown in the video. Perhaps there was a white balance mishap during shooting.The fact the Keysight can "zoom in" a channel of interest is quite interesting for me. However, I find the fonts of the options at the bottom menu a bit too thick for my taste, but this is nitpicking.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 07:42:03 pm
content: Quote from: colorado.rob on March 17, 2019, 05:17:37 pmI cannot imagine what I would need or want ethernet for on a power supply, certainly I wouldn't pay extra for it. IMHO nothing beats old fashioned analog knobs.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 07:52:59 pm
content: Quote from: james_s on March 17, 2019, 07:42:03 pmI would love if the E36312A had a better acceleration on its encoder knob - that or a fixed faster setting. I miss being able to continuously change a voltage using the knob.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 08:12:34 pm
content: Quote from: james_s on March 17, 2019, 07:42:03 pmI would want Ethernet on a source-meter in place of GPIB or serial for automation.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 09:36:55 pm
content: If one is doing automation then some form of connectivity is great, but most people using a bench power supply are likely using it on a bench. Certainly I'm not doing production testing on my hobby bench, when I want to change the voltage I want to reach for a knob and change it. The best arrangement I've used has separate knobs for coarse and fine adjustment.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 10:35:33 pm
content: Quote from: james_s on March 17, 2019, 09:36:55 pmYeah sure but if you need to check power ON rail sequencing then you need a programmable output timer function that you can set with the physical UI or via some utility program.When you have projects/products with multiple rails you have to have the tools to allow this ^ or suffer any manner of unexplained behaviors.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 10:56:23 pm
content: Quote from: james_s on March 17, 2019, 09:36:55 pmI hate fine and coarse adjustments. The fine adjustment is always at the end so you keep going back & forth. So far my favorite way of setting a voltage is just keying it in through a numerical keypad.