barely used Quickoo T12-945 died during heavy soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: abgx1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2024, 08:55:23 pm
content: Hi,My Quickoo T12-945 died after like its 5th useI was soldering a grounding point to a metal plate... I was doing that for about 2 minutes at 380°C until the whole metal plate was hot enough.However, after this heroic fight, the soldering station died. 24V is coming to the PCB from my external power supply, and I don’t see anything burned on the PCB.What do you suggest I do now? Should I buy a new soldering iron, maybe a KSGER? Or try to repair this one (how?)?Dead QuickooHeavy soldering which I was working on...

author: Phil1977
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 06:19:58 am
content: Most of these low-price solder stations do not really have a good solder quality inside themselves and inside their plugs.After exchanging the tip with the heater inside, I´d check out all stranded wire connectors, e.g. the metall plug of the iron itself. Just check with a multimeter (no CAT rating needed) the heater resistance. It should be somewhere between 6-10 Ohm, if it´s much higher it´s broken.If you open up the handle of the iron you often find an illegal mercury tilt switch. Just FYI.

author: elektryk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 10:44:38 am
content: First thing that you can check is MCU supply, another one is mosfet (but with burned mosfet display still should work).

author: Phil1977
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 12:08:20 pm
content: Indeed, the display should light up without any solder iron connection.Did you check if the 24V arrive at the PCB? Then, as said, check the supply from there up to the MCU. Maybe some voltage regulator has burned while the FET was creating some heat...Should be easy to encircle the point of failure.

author: abgx1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2024, 07:54:50 am
content: I am sorry, but I had absolutely no time to look into it for the last few weeks... But now I am on it.Everything up to the PCB is alright (switch, connector...). Something must be wrong directly on the PCB. The problem is that I have not found a schematic for this type of board, plus I am totally unskilled at this kind of repair. Given the price of the soldering station, it would probably be best to just buy a new one.(here is photo of my PCB... it looks completely different than others on the internet.)Do you think that I can buy something like thishttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005222965956.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.7249390asGVRi0&algo_pvid=84c42b27-7772-4468-83db-c7c4be333dfe&algo_exp_id=84c42b27-7772-4468-83db-c7c4be333dfe-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21113.26%2135.45%21%21%21821.30%21257.03%21%4021039fae17216834950674144e323d%2112000032249463148%21sea%21SK%21184540854%21&curPageLogUid=KWre4Rymieyo&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A#nav-storeand use my handle and soldering tips from quickoo which I had already home?

author: wasyoungonce
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2024, 10:10:35 am
content: abgx1....L1 is burnt on the PCB, it comes from "U1" a Sot23-6, W539 which is a LD1117AG 3.3V voltage regulator OR a JW5026 "buck step down converter". Some info in link...its happened before.I'd say "U5" is also bung probably a linear regulator....Its an LD1117AG 3.3V linear regulator. So "U1" must be JW5026?The fault was a metal contact in the iron handle shorted and blew it all. But your issue is getting the correct parts??? That'll be hard. So replace the controller PCB or buy another station. Buy one that has 220Vto 24V or what ever you use...most are multi mains voltage input. IMHOAlso check your iron handle is not shorting contacts!cheersedit drawing addedhttps://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubleshooting-hardware-devices-and-electronics-theory/troubleshooting-game-consoles-other-weird-devices/105440-quicko-t12-955-repair-board-rev-3-3-help-identifying-components-needed/page2?t=120288

author: abgx1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2024, 01:49:20 pm
content: Why should I buy one with 230V? I do not trust chinese power supplies enought to connect them to the mains, thats why I want to buys 24V model...Is there something wrong with them?

author: wasyoungonce
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2024, 01:00:05 am
content: Quote from: abgx1 on July 23, 2024, 01:49:20 pmIf you want a 24V unit, sure go for it. But consider you are objecting to a mains ( you can buy a mains unit that is multivoltage capable, mains of 24V DC in), but you're 24V input unit has already died prematurely!You're 24V unit, was a design plagued with some issues (the 3.3V LDO drawing too much) the newer units designs in general appear to have fixed this. Sadly time and research is needed to avoid things like this.I just see no problems with something like the quicko 958 V2 (I just got one, or even a good option is clytle374 "open source T12") that can use 24V external or mains input. Yes I have a lot of experience fixing switchmode PSUs since the 80s ("betamax rulez"!). These newer units are pretty good.I'm not objecting to either, get what suits "you"!cheers

author: abgx1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2024, 10:34:18 am
content: So this one should be OK?https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002724765690.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.c5eb34c8pFHtlj&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21US%20%2456.94%21US%20%2453.37%21%21%2156.94%2153.37%21%40211b61d017227674308983723ef914%2112000021872948108%21sh%21SK%21184540854%21Xclytle374´s one looks great, but I am from europe and he is from USA :/ Shipping would probably cost more than whole soldering iron.