Discussion on Hakko 474 Desoldering Station  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2017, 06:43:14 am
content: I've been dreaming a de-soldering station for years, and recently scored a NOS Hakko 474, complete with all accessories. (Hakko 474 unpacking & inspection photos)Just want to hear from others 474 long time users and owners, if there are any tips or suggestions for a new and noob owner ? Such as certain little tips or tricks that may prolong it's life, maintenance and etc, or even better mistakes you've made that I can avoid if possible. Besides the genuine parts are so expensive.Really don't want to ruin this precious piece of new gadget caused by inexperience user.TIA

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 10, 2017, 07:08:42 am
content: I have had a Hakko 474 for about 7 years now.I don't do a lot of through hole desoldering so I may not be qualified to comment.When I purchased it I also bought loads of the commonly used spare consumables - Expensive!I have not taken any special precautions with the machine.Treat the tip similar to what you would with a normal soldering iron - Clean with brass wool, suck solder out of the tip while still hot, etc...The only consumables I have used over the years are the felt pads that filter the suction at the top of the "Solder Catcher".Clean the Solder Catcher Spring regularly.All good... A pretty bomb proof tool really.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 10, 2017, 11:57:54 am
content: We've have a few, 474-62, some for ~8 yrs. While it is better than most I've used, it isn't perfect.I find the 815 gun is better than the other options, and they are changeable. It has a short throat, so is less likely to clog and MUCH easier to clean when it does.Lead-free solder is a bastid though. You have to keep it clean often, I do a few sucks with leaded solder after every use.The lead-free is very corrosive and also blocks filters quicly, so keep pleny on hand. Use the screwdriver tool to regularly scrape out the corrosive cr@p in the throat.They have a new FM series with an extra heater right at the back of the throat, to solve this problem, but until 1-2 of our 474s die, I'm happy to just keep cleaning.Oddly enough, it is far better than the $2,000 POS JBC I bought :-) .. I use that as a mantelpiece ! We also have a FM202, pretty cr@p as well. Lead free solder sucks :-)

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2017, 12:54:15 pm
content: Quote from: Mr.B on April 10, 2017, 07:08:42 amYeah, the so called "ceramic filter paper" is expensive here from local authorized distributor.Ever tried alternative filter like when you're running out of it ?About the provided damped sponge, I was thinking, even its not wet, accidentally suck in the water vapour or nearby the nozzle is not good for long term right ?Thanks Mr.B.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 10, 2017, 01:01:33 pm
content: Quote from: BravoVI also use that steel-wool type cleaner that most stations come with now, but I wouldn't worry in the least about water vapour !!Flux and leadfree solder does WAAAY more damage !! The little water vapour pretty much just super-heats and passes through. Don't suck a bowl of water though :-)

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2017, 01:04:16 pm
content: Quote from: digsys on April 10, 2017, 11:57:54 amNoted, will do lurk for alternative cheap or used gun.Well, mine came with the standard Hakko 809 gun, guess I have to live with it for a while.Any comment on this 809 gun ?Quote from: digsys on April 10, 2017, 11:57:54 amI never do lead free, especially for my projects, and to be honest, as a hobbyist, this gun will mostly used for scavenging old parts or fixing stuffs, but I will keep that in mind when doing the dreaded lead free stuffs.Quote from: digsys on April 10, 2017, 11:57:54 amWow .. 2K dollars down in the toilet, feel sorry for you.So as long I "diligently" clean the nozzle and the throat of the heating element, it should last quite sometimes isn't it ?About spring filter, did you guys replace it a lot like the paper filter do ? These is also quite expensive.Thank you digsys, really appreciate your experiences sharing.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2017, 01:06:17 pm
content: Quote from: digsys on April 10, 2017, 01:01:33 pmHa..ha.. yes, don't worry, I use only brass wool intensively for cleaning all my soldering activities.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2017, 01:10:06 pm
content: Another thing, about cleaning the pump head, dissembling the valve head, checking and cleaning those valve & fixing plates as mentioned in the manual for maintenance, all these years using it, did you clean yours ? How often ?

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 10, 2017, 01:18:11 pm
content: Quote from: BravoVClogs a LOT easier and faster, so keep it clean !!Quote from: BravoVWhen de-soldering old or foreign joints, ALWAYS apply leaded solder w/flux first !! There are some terrible alloys of solder out there, even worse than lead-free !!Quote from: BravoVA lesson in life :-)Quote from: BravoVWell, you have 2 users with 7-8 yrs already. Not a bad startQuote from: BravoVIf you carefully unscrew the solder blocks, you'll do no damage. If it is tight, heat it up. Physical damage is the only way you can really wreck them

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 10, 2017, 01:19:44 pm
content: Quote from: BravoVerrrrrr ummmm errrrr ,,, once <runs away>

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2017, 03:54:43 pm
content: Quote from: digsys on April 10, 2017, 01:19:44 pmLOL ... what happened ?

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 10, 2017, 07:46:02 pm
content: Quote from: digsys on April 10, 2017, 01:19:44 pmerrrrrr ummmm... Perhaps I should do mine this weekend...

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2017, 12:21:20 am
content: Quote from: Mr.B on April 10, 2017, 07:46:02 pmMr.B, if its not troubling you too much, take a close up photos when you clean that thing that made digsys ran away, please.Also, one spot that I'm also interested, the main stepdown transformer primary wiring like the cables color and connections, and please take close up photo of the transformer's label too, mine is on the top.I will take few snapshots today and will post here to compare with yours, as I have question regarding mains voltage connection at my transformer, as yours is 230 V 50 Hz mains right ?Thanks in advance.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 11, 2017, 12:34:18 am
content: Alright FIIIINE, I'l tell you !! We bought a new one this year .. immediately upacked it, removed stoopid sticker on the front and fired it up !For days it didn't suck very good, tried everything, not very happy. Then one day, I noticed the sticker where I stuck it ... Remove the pmp clamp screw BEFORE you use this device, or elsedamage may occur. Opened it up, and yup, cooked it. In my defence .. who puts a STOOPID warning sticker over the controls !!There should have been a Notice sticker to read the Warning sticker ..

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2017, 12:51:39 am
content: Quote from: digsys on April 11, 2017, 12:34:18 amDuh, how the pump was cooked ?Do you mean the whole pump , the motor , the pump or just those plates ? Please tell us more.Quote from: digsys on April 11, 2017, 12:34:18 amLOL, this Warning sticker of mine is already big enough and its stick on top of the controller box, don't think people will miss it.Where do you suggest to add the addition Notice sticker to read the Warning sticker ?I took the photos of that when I unboxed it, put here as reference for future "young players" ...

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 11, 2017, 01:30:23 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on April 11, 2017, 12:21:20 amWill do.I will get on to it this weekend.And, yes, 230v 50Hz

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2017, 08:43:41 am
content: Attached photo of my 474 transformer (with notes), shot at the primary winding side with 3 wires which are brown, blue and orange. Only blue and orange are connected to the main switch and fuse.In the photo's inset, at the back label, this unit is rated at 230 Volt, while my mains is at 220 Volt. Also at the label, there is a handwritten mark of "/" (slash) character between "220" and "230 V.As there is an unused but self terminated brown wire just hanging there alone, curious if that is for 220 Volt ?Curious to see yours Mr.B.

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 05:06:20 am
content: @BravoVPhotos as requested.I have done a full service of the iron.Not particularly dirty.Re-assembled, tested, all good.

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 05:09:04 am
content: More photos(This 60 second posting restriction is a pain - Yes, I fully understand why it is there.)

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 05:13:14 am
content: More photos

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 12:33:03 pm
content: Mr.B, thanks a lot for the excellent and details photos there, really appreciate the effort.Now, few comments and questions from those photos :- Our transformers are identical from the part number and also same manufacturer, good to know.- From the transformer primary wiring, yours (240 V) is different from mine (230 V), although I understand there is no "significant" difference, wonder if I can find the "correct" connection for my 220V mains. Guess time to do inductance and DCR measurements on the primary windings.- Since you're using the Hakko 816 handle, did it come as standard ? Or you purchased it separately ? If you did, what happened to the Hakko 809 handle ? Troublesome ?- About the pump diaphragm, looks like the membrane probably got pulled while secured or someone did it wrong ? (pointed by red arrows) I guess on next cleaning, you need to replace it as it may leak at that spot, cmiiw.As comparison, attached below, yours vs mine, the circle imprinted at the membrane is still very smooth.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 01:03:56 pm
content: As mine is bought NOS and NIB, the seller said its never powered on since 90s, I didn't turn it on until yesterday. Even though the pump is working, the suction power was very weak, and suddenly probably after less than 10 minutes of using, I heard some loud clicking noise inside the pump head, powered it off instantly.Opened up the top pump head, discovered that the plastic valve plate is disintegrated, yellowed, hardened and cracked all over the places..Luckily, after thoroughly cleaned using soft cloth, cotton balls and IPA as recommended by Hakko at the pump head, there are no chips or dented surface caused by those rattled small pieces of hardened valve plastic inside. Also the pump diaphragm rubber is also still in good shape (photo at my previous post)Bought from Hakko distributor, the replacement A1014 valves. And from the color, its obvious mine is way too old compared to the new ones isn't it ?Also bought few others parts, and Mr.B you're right, these little funny plastics, small tiny rubbers and funny wires are really expensive.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 01:24:40 pm
content: I have a 472 that looks very similar: only the layout of the pump is different (180° between the manifolds instead of 90°). The tubing on it is very yellow and stained with flux. I need to try cleaning it with alcohol/acetone and some pipe cleaners.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 02:19:11 pm
content: Quote from: helius on April 14, 2017, 01:24:40 pmSame here, its just mine is still spanking new and very clean, but still the tubes are so yellow (attached photo).Curious why they changed the layout from 180 degress to 90 ?

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 02:27:23 pm
content: Pure speculation, but it's possible that they could balance the "cranks" to make less vibration that way.Edit: it also looks like the motor is larger. The 472 has a 22V, 12W 4-pole induction motor positioned vertically, and turning the motor sideways required the 474 to use 90° manifolds.

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 15, 2017, 12:00:44 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on April 14, 2017, 12:33:03 pmI don't think it will make a blind bit of difference. Anywhere between 220 and 240 should be fine.QuoteIt was an option at the time of ordering.I prefer the pencil style over the gun style.QuoteMy photo is a bit misleading.The lower corner had peeled up a little when I removed the pump head.Smoothing it down (after I took the photo) resulted in a perfect seal once reassembled.Looking at yours, I am not so sure about the NOS status.It looks well used with the apparent flux damage to the diaphragm.I may be wrong.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 15, 2017, 03:05:40 am
content: Quote from: Mr.BI've swapped 2x pencils to guns, as I found them much easier to keep clean. ie shorter throat. Imightstill have the pencils, if anyone wants them.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2017, 03:13:50 am
content: Quote from: digsys on April 15, 2017, 03:05:40 amMe please ..

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2017, 03:30:44 am
content: Quote from: Mr.B on April 15, 2017, 12:00:44 amIts new, no apparent flux residues nor particles throughout the suction path, from the gun nozzle down to the pump head.No doubt it may aged too like the plastic valve plate. Thanks for the suggestion, I bought the A1013 diaphragm replacement ready too just in case its torn. Mine was manufactured around late 90s.

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 15, 2017, 05:03:57 am
content: In my second photo there is a label that says2007.11 2I suspect that is the manufacturing date.I have had it for about 7 or 8 years, so that makes sense.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2017, 08:45:05 am
content: Quote from: Mr.B on April 15, 2017, 05:03:57 amYes, I can see that your tubes are not yellowed at all.Btw, since day one, have you ever replace that black square diaphragms before ?

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 16, 2017, 03:04:43 am
content: No, never replaced those... After all, this weekend was the very first time I have done any maintenance.When I had it apart they looked in very good condition.I have replaced 2 Solder Catcher Springs and half a dozen Ceramic Filter Paper disks in the whole time.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 16, 2017, 03:27:49 am
content: Yeah same here. Only changed internal filters once or twice over the years, maybe once unexpectedly in some incident :-)

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2017, 11:44:39 am
content: Small update, just had a time to continue to fix the pump heads with disintegrated valves.The new valve plate, the semi transparent plastic thingies ( Hakko A1014 ) are now installed at both pump heads.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2017, 06:19:05 am
content: I pulled a Hakko 470 out of the garbage, found the A1029 heating element is long obsoleteBut you canupgrade Hakko 802 wand to 809. Basically put a newer A1313 (474) heating element in the wand, use a different pipe and packing ring.Did it all and it's totally worth it, an excellent desoldering station.Pace, Weller I've used I find they don't compare.