hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Hakko 888 vs 951 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2015, 02:06:07 am
content: How much of an upgrade is the 951 compared to the 888? I have an 888 but am looking at getting a second iron and want to upgrade as well. I don't think I can justify a JBC class iron given my hobbyist level use, but then again if the 951 is not a big upgrade from the 888 maybe I don't need it either.I've searched the forum and seen the 951 reviews. I understand its features relative to the 888. I just don't see much in the way of direct hands on comparison...How much of a difference will I notice in every day use?Opinions from those who've used both appreciated.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 25, 2015, 08:10:04 pm
content: I had a Hakko 936 and upgraded to the FX-951. Did you see my review? There is a significant upgrade between the 888 and 951. It just does everything better and faster, tip changes, initial warm up, thermal recovery and ergonomics. The closer tip to grip distance alone is worth the upgrade. I feel I have so much more control when soldering now. The 2 changes I made was to change the default 5 minute sleep time to 20 minutes and put a piece of electrical tape over the buzzer so it wasn't so annoyingly loud. I didn't do a comparison with the 936 (FX-888 ancestor) because it's like comparing 4 cylinder engines to supercharged V8 engines. Ultimately, both do the same thing, the V8 just does it better, faster and with a much higher cool factor.Just add Kester 44 63/37 with 66 core and solder on!

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2015, 10:39:30 pm
content: They are nice stations, a lot nice than an 888. I almost bought one but found a Metcal 900 in an open box with 6 tips, solder, wick and desoldering braid for 175. Couldn't pass that up. If you do the 951 you'll enjoy it a lot and the 888 will gather dust as a backup station.Fat
Extract pins from Weller iron heater assembly - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2015, 04:24:51 pm
content: In an effort to repair my ages old but trusty Weller soldering iron I bought a replacement handle but in order to change it I need to disassemble the heater holder and remove the pins. Does anyone know of a method to do it without buying a kilo buck Tyco/AMP extraction tool? Digikey must be particularly insane with their price but I could not find one any cheaper than ~$250 so I am not buying it anyway.If not then I guess I will cut the wires and resolder afterwards using heat resistant tubing.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2015, 04:30:10 pm
content: You can find the dimensions for the tool here:http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Specification+Or+Standard%7F408-7859%7FO%7Fpdf%7FEnglish%7FENG_SS_408-7859_O.pdfIt doesn't look too difficult to fabricate one from suitably thin-walled metal tubing. All it needs to do is push in the two barbs on either side of the contact.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2015, 07:19:06 pm
content: You can try a stick ofK&S Metals 87111Round StainlessO.D. = 1/8"Wall Thickness =22ga (.0299")Length = 12"You can also find it in hobby and craft stores (suspect local would be a bit less expensive + instant gratification).The wall thickness is a bit thinner than the dimensional drawing Sue linked (18ga/.0478" is closer), but it should work IMHO. And the best part is, it should be ~$5 max locally.Hope this helps.

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2015, 03:43:22 am
content: Thanks guys, I ended up with a 1/8'' brass rod that I had and a rotary tool with a cut-off wheel. Finished with a file set and it was good enough to just do the job, extracted 3 pins from the heater holder assembly.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2015, 09:03:33 pm
content: Quote from: Bud on November 23, 2015, 03:43:22 amGlad you got it sorted.I didn't think the brass was thick enough (0.014"), so I looked up their round stainless options to get as close as I could to the 0.045" thickness spec. for the tool they sell (and tough enough you can put it in your toolbox use it again if needed).

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2015, 02:57:12 am
content: Yep, now have my Weller back, all renewed. So happy, that JBC toy iron sometimes drives me mad.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2015, 07:04:06 am
content: Quote from: Bud on November 24, 2015, 02:57:12 amThose old Weller's are hard to truly kill.
Anyone tried Warton Metals Microprint P2010 SAC305 solder paste? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 20, 2015, 01:51:45 pm
content: So my solder paste inventory is completely depleted and I need to buy some new. As the solder pastes have limited shelf life, buying 500 g jar is not a reasonable option for me but buying small amounts of good solder paste at reasonable price in not so trivial too. So I stumbled on Warton Metals Microprint P2010 SAC305 which seems kinda reasonable deal. Have anyone used this stuff? Or maybe suggest some other Lead-free solder paste available in the UK as I will be there next week. BTW ChipQuick paste sucks because it is full of air bubbles.SC-SO-PA-P2010-40Ghttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40g-Warton-Metals-Microprint-P2010-SAC305-No-Clean-Solder-Paste-Syringe-/231466002432?hash=item35e472e800:g:uHYAAOSwl9BWMjSUhttp://www.rapidonline.com/tools-equipment/warton-metals-microprint-p2010-sac305-88-0-25-45-no-clean-solder-paste-547774

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 21, 2015, 01:13:30 pm
content: Nobody? Guess will need to take a gamble.

author: jc101
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2015, 07:23:10 pm
content: Yes, I use it, works great for me. The low slump formula is great for QFPs and it doesn't need to kept in the fridge either.Low residue after soldering and no problems as yet, it's my paste of choice now.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 22, 2015, 10:16:56 am
content: Thanks, then will go for it without hesitation.
Motorized knob turner - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2015, 12:34:33 am
content: Meh, never mind. I just need to search for "dc motor gear box"... duh...

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2015, 08:08:45 am
content: --- or motorized potentiometer

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2015, 08:19:07 am
content: Or a stepper motor. Much depends on details not revealed here.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2015, 12:11:55 am
content: Quote from: Richard Crowley on November 20, 2015, 08:19:07 amIt was an idle thought. I have a Tektronix 1L30 spectrum analyzer plugin, and it uses a mechanically tuned cavity oscillator for the 1st LO. It tunes over 15 turns of a simple front-panel knob.I changed the tube and now I want to check for flatness but I need to adjust the pickup probe. I wanted to automate a kind of frequency sweep thingy so I can adjust the pickup, press a button and look at the result.I bought a 15RPM 12V gearbox, so it should sweep the entire range in a minute. Super good, I don't want to wear out or force the LO with something too fast or strong. I think I'll put a rubber washer inside a 1/2 nut driver to drive the knob and provide slip.A simple RF voltmeter on one output and a frequency counter on the other (I'll need 50 ohms on both anyways) and I can put my scope at 10s/div and it should be good.I think.
Omano 2300S microscope with double boom arm - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2015, 10:34:53 pm
content: I recently picked up a new Omano 2300S-V6. The package was a trinocular head, zoom microscope with opticals delivering 7.5 to 45 X. The package also provides the ability to use the trinocular with both of the stereo eyepieces. It was purchased from Microscope.com and took about a week to deliver using their free shipping. From the supplied manual I’m fairly certain that this is a Ningbo Sunny Instruments SZMN Series Zoom Stereo Microscope. I foolishly ordered it late on Friday, so it didn’t ship until Monday. It arrived the following Monday.The packaging was very well done and it came in two different packages. The boom arm weighs 67 lbs and was shipped in its own package. All parts were double packed in a form fitting Styrofoam, with the head and ancillary products being packed in an oversize box with Styrofoam peanuts. Inspection on opening the packages showed no damage to any of the items.I assembled the boom arm and mounted the head. The package came with a 0.5X Barlow so that was installed next. It also included an 80 LED light that mounts on the bottom of the objective. It seems to provide sufficient light to view everything I have used it for and I’m currently running it at about 75%.The zoom and focus mechanism both are smooth and operate correctly. The boom arm (being new) is a bit sticky on the first pull of the day, but once you’re through the first movement it runs smoothly. Optics are clear, especially for the price. It’s not the best scope in the world, but it clearly meets my needs. I rate the value for the price to be very good to excellent.Overall the cost of the unit was about $50 more than a comparable Amscope. While I have no basis to judge by, I felt the Omano provided a better value for the extra money spent and was particularly impressed with the limited lifetime warranty.I didn’t purchase a camera for it. Funds were limited and from my readings of reviews the lower end cameras for it from the various makers are disappointing. My ultimate goal would be to mount a Canon digital SLR to the trinocular. In the interim I’ve picked up the necessary kit to mount a Logitech 5000 web camera to it for pictures. The parts were less than $50 US and should provide me at least rudimentary photo capabilities. These are being used my amateur astronomers for telescope photography and I think I can successfully adapt it to the Omano.
Screwdriver bit holders - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2015, 02:51:46 pm
content: I am looking for soft plastic holders to organise and keep together my 100s of bits, which are currently loose in boxes. But I cannot find anyone that sells those rubbery holders. I have ended up buyinghttp://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001TEVY7Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00simply because they come with an extra retainer!

author: PTR_1275
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2015, 03:14:31 pm
content: Something like this might be suitablehttp://m.ebay.com/itm/100mm-Long-7mm-Dia-12-Hole-Screwdriver-Bit-Holder-Block-Red-10-Pcs-/391234665456?nav=SEARCH(Sorry, still can't work out how to hyperlink in the forum from my phone)

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2015, 03:32:27 pm
content: A thick sheet of plexiglass and a drill press with a 7mm drill bit will solve your problem

author: 6581
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 17, 2015, 03:44:08 pm
content: I use ammo box for AA batteries. Perhaps there's some caliber that would work for screwdriver bits too. :-)http://www.mtmcase-gard.comSomebody had an opposite idea:http://perkelesblog.blogspot.fi/2012/05/small-trick-for-22-ammo.html?m=1

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2015, 03:53:07 pm
content: Quote from: PTR_1275 on November 17, 2015, 03:14:31 pmIts shipped from Hong Kong so just *HOPE* it isn't another 'fragrant' product from the Hoo Flung Dung recycled plastics and waste disposal factory!

author: all_repair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2015, 04:09:01 pm
content: Keep repeated ones away. And hold active ones with these:http://m.yeggi.com/q/hex+bit+holder/?s=tthttp://m.yeggi.com/q/bit+holder/?s=tt

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2015, 04:24:13 pm
content: How about .25 ACP ammo boxes? Guess it depends how long the bits are but these rounds are 7.67mm in the rim and 15.62mm long.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2015, 10:22:38 pm
content: QuoteThis is exactly what I did, and they are perfect. One half in the garage, one half on my bench.
Modifying genuine hakko 936 to full-range power input.  Question about PC1701C - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cirthix
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 06:56:42 am
content: Hi,I have a genuine hakko936, has worked well for many years. I recently moved to China and the station is a 110v variant. After cracking open the inside and taking a glance at the pcb, I saw '24v' and a diode right next tot the input wires, so I bought a nice industrial 24V DC supply. Oops, part of the circuit actually needs the AC input!There is an NEC PC1701C zero-crossing switching driver for the triac that has the AC input pulled to one AC input through a 15k resistor and the other through a cap. Looking at the terribly inadequate datasheet, there is mention of using the driver for DC circuits, but no real documentation on doing so.http://datasheet.octopart.com/UPC1701C-NEC-datasheet-101908.pdfA nice breakdown of the 936 innards can be found here (though ZD2 appears to be backwards in schematic)http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/hakko_936_schem-pcb_%26_mod_v1r7.pdfCan anyone help me figure this out? I'd like to make it full-range but will just buy a transformer if needed.Thanks,cirthix

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 07:41:49 am
content: Quote from: cirthix on November 15, 2015, 06:56:42 amYeah but isn't the heater itself running off 24VAC? I'd just get a "cheap" step down transformer, and use the 936's original 110V isolating transformer.

author: cirthix
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 08:24:49 am
content: Yes, it is. Should run fine off of 24vdc if the PC1701c issue can be fixed.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 03:34:06 pm
content: Since you've moved to China, you should be able to find a suitable transformer (24VAC output) easily; unless your goal is to actually modify it for DC operation, in which case you'd have to dispense with the triac and the rest of the control circuitry, and get something like this:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/soldering-station-digital-dc-controller-for-hakko-936-compatible-907-iron-handle/
Elecrow Acrylic Laser Cutting Service - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2015, 07:38:38 am
content: Couldn't find an appropriate section to post this, so this forum seems the closesthttp://d.av.id.au/blog/elecrow-acrylic-laser-cutting-service/TL;DR - Ordered a few laser cut things from Elecrow and it was a pretty good experience.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2015, 04:28:00 am
content: Super awesome.DXF huh? That's the most ambiguous file format I've ever used. Did you have any problems with the units or scale, like in Spinal Tap?I wonder if they can do beveled edges and etching?Replacing the discs on some vintage scope knobs comes to mind.

author: crispy_tofu
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2015, 05:02:04 am
content: Wow, I might use them for a project in the future... thanks for sharing your experience!

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2015, 05:14:31 am
content: Quote from: crispy_tofu on November 14, 2015, 05:02:04 amIn the US, I got very good results with Ponokohttp://www.ponoko.com/laser-cutting. They accept an inkscape svg file with operation encoding by colors (cut line, engrave line, engrave area, etc), and have an very wide choice of materials and colors (my favorite is the fluorescent green acrylic).

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2015, 06:26:18 am
content: Yep Ponoko do a lot more stuff with acrylic (and tons of other materials), but for those of us not in the USA, the price + shipping makes it a fair bit more expensive.No engraving/etching is offered from Elecrow yet. It's a fairly new service so they might add it later?If you add a dimension to the DXF file, or add a separate image/text file with some notes, they'll let you know if the file is incorrect. I work in metric so exporting in millimetres isn't an issue
Atten 8502D - What is the correct power rating?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MarkoAnte
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2015, 09:45:27 am
content: Hi,I am looking for a hot air station. I look at Atten 8502D and the power of the air heater is quoted at 800W and 550W.Fromhttp://www.atten.com/- 550W (http://www.atten.com/Rework%20system/at8502d.html)Fromhttp://www.gratten.eu/- 550W (http://www.gratten.eu/solder-rework/hot-air-stations/at8586-hot-air-rework-station.html)Fromhttp://www.batronix.com/- 800W (http://www.batronix.com/shop/soldering/Atten-AT8502D.html)Who is right?Does anybody have the unite at home and can measure the power. I have phoned gratten who have asked the Chinese manufacturer on skype and they said 550W.Marko

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2015, 06:47:12 pm
content: You're looking at different products, in the manual for the Atten 8502D is right on that Batronix site you linked, it says 800W max. The AT8586 I'm pretty sure is fan driven rather than air pump driven.Remember Atten is a cheap Chinese product so I hope you know where your money is going. Personally I'd get a genuine Hakko FX-888D and a stand alone $50 Atten hot air station (convert all this into euro).Disappointment is bound to set in when you discover that the hot air on the Atten 8502D falls to bits, the iron is also virtually a Hakko 936 clone with a digital front end. The good thing about something like an Atten 858 is they are cheap to replace hot air nozzles and the parts are abundant on Ebay.I brought Yihua brand and got essentially the same thing (separate units) for about $55 total but it's an analog soldering control. I'm doing my part to stop inflation in China.

author: MarkoAnte
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2015, 07:34:31 pm
content: Meh I linked the wrong thing:Fromhttp://www.gratten.eu/-http://www.gratten.eu/solder-rework/hot-air-stations/at8502d-hot-air-rework-station.htmlI know that it wont be super quality but I wont spend € 915,58 on a hot air station form farnell. I will probably go for AT8586. I thought I would get the 800W model but I don't think its 800W. I have spoken to batronix and they told me that the power at the wall socket is 550W but the heater is 800W. They made perpetuum mobile
Talk about a cheap buy..... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2015, 09:12:00 am
content: Not my channel, but something in my feed.Accidental ebay lowball bid for this, and for $20 down and a lot more for delivery, he got a Pick and place machine. Must have been the only bidder, I would have gotten more than that as scrap steel alone.

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2015, 10:03:28 pm
content: I saw the video today. I really like his channel.

author: 6581
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 06:53:46 pm
content: Honey, our new pick and place machine just arrived…"I hope it wasn't expensive."No. Twenty bucks."Oh, that's good."There's just one little thing we need to talk about…

author: fivefish
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 07:13:28 pm
content: $20 + $700 shipping expense + no feeders + no software + no guarantee it's working + (what the hell are you going to do with it if you're not running a PCB Assembly operation that cranks out thousands of boards a year?) + (what's use a PNP machine without a reflow oven) == big money pit

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 07:33:36 pm
content: Ive been there, done that. Got a 'steal' on a Quad machine with a ton of feeders last April. Still don't have it fully functioning. It takes tons of time, thought, and cash to make it work. My ex-partner had an unsupported P&P with feeders that he gave away to the scrap heap since the effort to make it a viable solution was more than buying a fully functioning used machine that is still supported.These machines look awesome in your garage, but unless you have piles of time and money, they are worthless. Anyone that would by it, needs to make money and likely does not want a project of that magnitude. Even if the parts are available, they will be very hard to get and/or very expensive. One little thing that is scratched, bent, or burned up can stop these machines cold. Most of the parts are very specialized and difficult to DIY.He keeps saying "$20!" but he already said he spent $700 in transportation alone. Good luck! At least the machine I got is still fully supported top to bottom - and it's still a major challenge.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 10, 2015, 07:26:07 pm
content: This is one of those "Be careful what you bid on, you just might own it."

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2015, 07:54:48 pm
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on November 10, 2015, 07:26:07 pm3000 pounds of nearly useless hardware! That may be the most expensive $20 he has ever spent.
Cheap USB Microscope post mortem teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: olewales
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2015, 10:57:52 pm
content: First of all: I've seen Dave's review of those and wasn't really planning on buying one, but eventually I decided to givethis onea try. Its getting decent reviews and I got significant discount on it. I mean it can't be bad for $7, right? Well...When it arrived I was actually quite pleased with image quality and overall usefulness (apart from HORRIBLE stand, but I was aware of this issue). However after testing it with few of my devices (including windows tablet via usb-otg adapter) it stopped working completely. Black screen or communication error from webcam applications. I was a little annoyed but I am aware that quality of products imported directly from china is not always perfect and so are Chinese sellers so they send me replacement unit right away. Meanwhile I started investigating cause of the failure (I was hoping to find dodgy usb cable connection I would be able to fix) and I think I found a major design issue with those.While investigating main (and only) PCB in this thing i discovered that there are only 2 IC's and one of them is an eeprom.Both are directly connected to USB 5V supply.Not true, see belowAre you supposed to do that? I do not have much experience with product design but I think every guide I've ever encountered explicitly stated that USB supply should be somehow regulated before using for rest of the circuitry. I think that's the main cause why this thing only lasted for an hour or so. I guess that spike on USB rail or even just ESD killed main IC.Now, this actually happened a few weeks ago and I've just received another unit. I am wondering if there is a (cost effective) way of preventing the same thing from happening again. LDO in series with the device? I guess it probably won't work with 3.3V, but it should with something like 4.5V. Maybe just a diode or two? DC-DC converter would be an overkill, I guess.Hereis the gallery with high-res teardown photos. I'll also attach scaled down pictures to this post for redundancy.EDIT:Ok, after posting here I decided to do some additional checks and, as always, they prove me wrong. I did some basic continuity tests before but I must have screwed up because now I measured 3.5V on VCC pin of eeprom chip when the device is supplied from 5V. It turns out that LDO is integrated in main IC (well another one, it must supply power for CCD/CMOS sensor anyway). It actually makes sense to design such chip so it requires the least amount of additional components in the design. I am bit surprised though because I never saw single chip solution with integrated voltage regulator (for anything else than itself).

author: lovemb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2015, 12:11:49 am
content: "I am bit surprised though because I never saw single chip solution with integrated voltage regulator (for anything else than itself"I've seen a few chips with integrated voltage regulators, in terms of "public devices" various FTDI chips are a example.
Best place in USA to buy a legit Hakko 888D - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TrevorBlohm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 11:38:38 pm
content: I am looking to get a Hakko 888D, but I am concerned about fakes... Where is the best place in USA to get a legitimate one?Thanks!Trevor

author: crispy_tofu
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 11:41:35 pm
content: I would recommend tequipment.net, and they should give you a lower quote if you mention that you're from the EEVBlog forums

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 11:48:00 pm
content: +1 for tequipment.net. Excellent service and fast shipping. EEVBlog discount comes in handy as well.

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 11:49:11 pm
content: Occasionally Fry's has them on sale for a very low price. Agree about Tequipment being excellent.

author: TrevorBlohm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 10, 2015, 12:48:36 am
content: Thanks everyone, I will look up Tequipment!
Need a 16 bit digitizer, with:Ethernet,100MSps, externally triggered,simple math - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2015, 12:19:14 pm
content: Hi guys,Do you know of a digitizer, that would have around 100MSps, 16 bit resolution, could be triggered by an external (digital) signal and would connect via Ethernet?The sample memory does not need to be particularly high – after the trigger, less than 1ms has to be captured with the specified sampling rate. N samples would be summed and stored – basically every time "cell" would be oversampled. N must be an adjustable parameter, from 1 to at least 128. The sample memory does not need to be very large – a maximum of 512 samples (after the summing) need to be stored and sent immediately after the end of the acquisition. A maximal trigger speed will be 1000Hz.The data would then be sent over an Ethernet connection for further evaluation. There need to be no fancy things with the Ethernet, just simple UDP.The input signal will have a bandwidth from DC to 5MHz, single ended (can be converted into differential), with a 0V to 1V range (the range is negotiable if needed), fed in through a 50 Ohm coax.The device should be pretty industrial – temperature range of at least -40C to 70C.All other aspects are negotiable – power, form factor....I have found several devices that could do the trick, but they were a massive overkill – extremely more powerful, usually with much more sample memory, running the output data through obscure special obscure buses and nasty pricing.I could do this by means of a simple FPGA coupled to a microcontroller with Ethernet, but since this is quite a low volume project I was hoping to find something off the shelf and save a lot of time. Normally, I'd jump at it, sounds like great fun, but dead lines, finite amounts of time... you knowSo, do you know of such a device?Thank you,David

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2015, 12:58:19 pm
content: I don't know such a device, but google image searchdid. Except for the temperature specification.
Inexpensive Reflow Ovens for Large PCBs (10.5 in/267 mm  x 11 in/280 mm) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: magicsmoke
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2015, 03:36:08 pm
content: Is there a recommended inexpensive reflow oven for large PCBs? I have some boards with bigger dimensions (10.5 in/267 mm x 11 in/280 mm) than the recommended maximum size for the T932A reflow ovens (Max solder area 250 mm x 250 mm). Even small toaster convection ovens with a big enough area could be used if anyone knows of any.
JBC DR-SD Desoldering Iron Stand Pinout - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: divelectservices
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2015, 04:48:49 pm
content: Does anyone have the pinout for the DR-SD (or older model) stand and/or the DR-560A handpiece connector(s)?A wiring diagram for either or both would be most helpful also.

author: mrdubje
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 11, 2015, 05:49:59 pm
content: It just so happens that I've got one (DR-SD Stand) coming my way, I'll see what I can do!

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2015, 02:10:56 am
content: A DR8500 is disassembled on my bench. I was going to rework it for use with a soldering iron, but would be amenable to sale or maybe trade for a different stand or other JBC tips.I think this is accurate, but my meter takes a while to beep for continuity and I might have missed something. So no guarantees.The B pin on the stand is not connected. The stand has a female connector, not a male connector like the soldering iron stands.
Is this guy for real or just playing the fool? You decide. Funny to watch though - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 04:41:03 pm
content: https://www.youtube.com/user/msadaghd/videosAnd he even has a wikipedia page:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mehdi_Sadaghdar

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 05:39:13 pm
content: Thanks for the link.I am thinking that this guy is just setting up 'disasters', a bit like a court jester, in order to attract an audience. Watching some one make a hash of something and getting semi fried is always good for audience numbers.Fraser

author: crispy_tofu
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 08:58:32 pm
content: Another thread on the topic:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/is-this-'engineer'-for-real/msg781368/#msg781368I think we said that he was faking it, and earning a lot of money in the process!

author: Balaur
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 10:47:41 pm
content: Not sure if I like the show/channel of this gentlemen.Too cringey for me and not too refined/smart. Way too obvious things:-//

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2015, 10:09:17 pm
content: Probably before you were born there was a very funny comedian and DJ called Kenny Everett. One of his characters was called 'Reg' and he was the most clumsy inept hardware guy you've ever seen in your life, by the end of each sketch there was blood everywhere and he was missing digits if not limbs. This guy is just the electronics equivalent but he doesn't have Kenny Everett's talent.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2015, 10:41:48 pm
content: I guessed who that was before I opened it.Is it real or staged... uh, that's not really a question, right?I vote funny. His unibrow could have a show of its own.

author: briselec
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2015, 10:07:14 am
content: I really don't get why people find this guy funny. Imagine someone at your work doing stuff like this. Surely you would call him an idiot.

author: lukaq
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2015, 10:49:58 am
content: I almost died watching this, this is the best comedy ever

author: con-f-use
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 01, 2015, 11:04:00 am
content: I like him for hisElectricity and Watervideo. Wish more people would realize this.For German speakersStaplerfahrer Klauscomes to mind.Also why theduplicate?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2015, 12:31:27 pm
content: Whatever you think about the level of comedy, you've got to credit his dedication in terms of pain and suffering in pursuit of his 'art'.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2015, 12:40:28 pm
content: Quote from: briselec on November 01, 2015, 10:07:14 amA lot of things are inappropriate at work that are not at home...
Bausch & Lomb Stereo Zoom .7 to 3X  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 04:13:44 pm
content: I have a chance to pick up a fairly nice Bausch and Lomb stereozoom microscope with a single arm mount. It has zoom feature and the magnification range is .7 to 3X. The price is within the range of some of the nicer Amscope models. Has anyone here had experience with using these for electronics? I seems to be well made, but for another hundred dollars I can get a new in the box Amscope with everything I want.Any suggestions on which I should go with?Thanks,Fat

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 04:41:49 pm
content: They are good microscopes, but it would depend on whether the head unit will accept a barlow lens and whether a ring light can be easily fitted. If it can, and if it's in good working order then I'd prefer it to an Amscope, unless you want to add a camera.

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 08:47:44 pm
content: Thanks!

author: LabSpokane
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2015, 03:23:42 am
content: The question that needs to be answered is: "is it in proper alignment?" If you are able to inspect it and can ensure that it is in good condition, it may be worth it. If not, it's not worth the chance to save $100.

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2015, 03:35:45 pm
content: Quote from: LabSpokane on October 30, 2015, 03:23:42 amIt's local to me and I've asked to look at it, he hasn't set the time yet. I see these things all over ebay with prices that vary up and down the scale. I'd like to have one, but getting one that works and will last is looking risky. He also has this over priced, but I think I can work that down to an acceptable level if the scope is in working order. If not, then it's Amscope time.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2015, 07:45:33 pm
content: Additional points:Amscope is 0.7-4.5, for comparison.With a single boom arm, that means you can move the head around in an arc. But to move it back/forth, you would need to unlock/lock it. You can get into Amscope with double boom arm, Barlow, and LED ring for mid $500.
Mystery Motorola Mobile - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 01:31:13 am
content: I can't for the life of me find out what model this phone is, I have searched many of the codes and nothing. The FCC ID does not have any public files unfortunately.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 01:46:09 am
content: After some googling, it appears that this is Profile 300 analog cell phone. It also looks like they sell for $10 on eBay

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 01:58:18 am
content: Quote from: ataradov on October 29, 2015, 01:46:09 amExactly, Profile 300. Was my first Cell, still got the box and it's in the cupboard.Need to take it down the range and shoot holes in the old POS.

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 02:00:20 am
content: Haha sweet, thanks guys, it does feel pretty cheap, kind of dissapointed

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 02:03:45 am
content: Any details on the connector at the bottom of the phone?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 02:24:42 am
content: Quote from: sonnytiger on October 29, 2015, 02:03:45 amWhat details do you need?8 pin one sided, polarised as well.My 230VAC wallwart #SPN4479A is 8.6 VDC 360mA

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 03:11:07 am
content: That connector could be used for all kinds of fun stuff back in the day - such as cloning ESN's.

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 03:02:19 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on October 29, 2015, 02:24:42 amI mostly just looking for where the power connectors are, so i can run it without the battery
Fusion Battery Boost - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 03:49:38 am
content: https://www.fusionbatteryboost.com/

author: Delta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 04:03:45 am
content: Imagine that thing on a Batteriser!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 04:08:34 am
content: Batteriser plan 2..........

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 04:23:25 am
content: Crooks have been selling antenna boosters that can be attached to the back of the phone for ages. Now cell carriers put plenty of base stations, so weak cell signal is no longer an issue. Now the issue is short battery life, so crooks switched gears a bit.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 04:33:55 am
content: A part of mereallywishes this was a parody...

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 04:36:11 am
content: If they are using fusion to generate these ions, couldn't they just run the phone from the fusion power?

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 05:05:27 am
content: Couldn't they just kill the user with the neutrons?

author: crispy_tofu
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 05:08:45 am
content: Looking at the whois for the website, it looks like this website:http://www.fusionpowerbandz.com/is by the same person.Who doesn't want Liquid Infrared, 'made from the purest ionic materials and most advanced formulations in the world'?

author: ElektronikLabor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 08:02:47 am
content: On the Video they proof the sticker with an "Ion Tester" What is that device? What does it count?

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2015, 08:05:04 am
content: Quote from: medvedev on October 29, 2015, 08:02:47 amIt looks like one of the devices used to check ionisers in ESD controlled environments.
Please ignore - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 02:42:06 pm
content: Double post. Please ignore.

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 08:06:21 pm
content: After 3500 posts or so you're allowed the odd mistake

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 08:13:07 pm
content: It was weird, I posted a new topic about the HUDL tablet and it appeared twice. My iPad must have read my submit press twice or something.Fraser
Portable Wireless Bluetooth Speaker - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: liztek
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 23, 2015, 11:14:53 am
content: I love this style of the Liztek PSS-100 Portable WirelessBluetooth speakerwith Built in Speakerphone, 8 Hour Rechargeable Battery.

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2015, 02:16:55 pm
content: One post spammer.
Olympus SZ4045, aux lens - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: baoshi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 04:37:00 am
content: Just acquired an Olympus SZ4045I'm trying to get a Barlow lens and a protective lens for it.Any one has idea what is the diameter and thread of the objective lens?My measure is about 47mm but on ebay all I found is 48x0.75mmthanksSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 06:58:20 am
content: Which part of your thread did you measure, and which part of the aux lens is spec'd at 48mm.Note, if there isn't an overlap the threads won't connect

author: baoshi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 01:28:16 pm
content: Think I got it. 48mm

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 01:46:15 pm
content: Threads are usually measured across the outside diameter of the male thread. I have a SZ II and a Barlow lens of 48mm fitted.
Inexpensive "open barrel" crimp tool - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2015, 11:05:59 pm
content: Can someone recommend an inexpensive "open barrel" crimp tool? These are pins like the Molex connector pins in PC power supplies, however, I want to crimp up to 10AWG wire. Here is an example of that type of pin from Digikey:http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/62428-2/A100768CT-ND/2233444. Digikey has production tools that start at around $400. I just want something for occasional use, hopefully for a tenth of that or so. Changeable dies would be good. Any suggestions?

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 03:57:27 am
content: Something like this should do - They are not to expensive;http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=art_detail&parentID=1299&groupID=1318&artID=3774

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 04:55:15 am
content: Nice, but unfortunately only good for up to 13AWG.Meanwhile, I've done more searching, and located these:http://www.amazon.com/FindyouLED-LS-2546B-Crimping-2-5-6mm2-Connector/dp/B00KFUW3LY. Adequate reviews, replaceable dies, and available from multiple sellers on ebay for around $22. Worth a risk, maybe.

author: Halvmand
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 01:00:46 pm
content: Quote from: wblock on October 16, 2015, 04:55:15 amI've used both, and the one you've linked to is the one i prefer. To my best knowledge it crimps to perfection every time. In my opinion the other one is hopeless for all but cutting small screws to lenght.

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 05:12:42 pm
content: Quote from: Halvmand on October 16, 2015, 01:00:46 pmExcellent. Have you found or tried other dies with it?

author: Phiveaces
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 05:37:28 pm
content: I just bought myself one of these:http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Terminal-Combination-crimping-tool-set-with-4-replaceable-die-sets-LS03C-5D3-crimping-tool-kit/826941462.htmlstill waiting for it in the mail, but I have a similar one with just one die.Best part of this is you can pick which 5 die sets they send with the tool... and the nice case.... and extra dies are fairly cheap

author: Halvmand
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 05:02:27 pm
content: No i've only used the dies that was on from the start.
Desoldering Goot TP-100 opinion - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rosbuitre
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 08:20:43 pm
content: HiI have the possibility to buy the Goot TP-100 or most expensive (+100U$S) Denon Sc7000z .It is for use occasional, which recommend?Regards

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 09:04:41 pm
content: I have the SC7000 and love it, but then I've never tried the TP-100 so don't have an opinion on that (or how it compares).Perhaps it might be useful to see what spares are available (and how much they cost). You'll need to replace the filters and different nozzle diameters are useful, so a great tool which is also cheap may not be the best buy if you can't afford (or can't get) consumables for it.

author: rosbuitre
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 10:22:51 pm
content: Quote from: dunkemhigh on October 16, 2015, 09:04:41 pmThanks for the advice, I'll ask for parts as you say, but import in Argentina this complicated for now, very little is achievedIn occasional use, How long resists a filter?Regards

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 10:37:02 pm
content: QuoteI can't honestly say: depends on many factors, such as how much solder there is, what solder it is, how hot the gun is, etc. I wouldn't expect to need a new one for quite a while, though.

author: rosbuitre
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 11:23:04 am
content: Quote from: dunkemhigh on October 16, 2015, 10:37:02 pmThanks, someone has to give me your opinion of Goot ?, I think I will buy TP-100 because it is the only with guarantee you get with the seller and import is impossible nowRegards
Need FE-5680A CPLD dump in jedec format - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: AlfBaz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2015, 03:19:03 am
content: I recently purchased one of these FE-5680B units from *bay seller fluke.l. The first unit wouldn't lock so he kindly sent me another unit which I have subsequently modified to output 10MHzA time-nut member has managed to dump thefirmwarefor the various programmable devices in the FE-5680A. Unfortunately they are .bin and .hex files.I've managed to download the contents of the CPLD (XL9572XL) but it is jedec format (.jed) and from what I've been able to read, conversion between the two requires device specific info that is either not available or hard to find.Anybody able to dump the CPLD's innards in jed file format for comparison in a FE-5860A?I used Xilinx's impact and a clone "Platform Cable USB" dongle. The JTAG connections can be found in this schematic on the 15 pin headerhereAttached is a picture of the setup and a copy of the downloaded jed file

author: AlfBaz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 05:48:59 pm
content: bump
Constant current source - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Daniel_Reyes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 03:49:55 am
content: Interested in peoples thoughts on this. Nothing in particular, just everyone's thoughts.http://www.icstation.com/icstation-constant-current-voltage-step-down-module-cccv-p-3255.htmlSent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

author: Arhammon
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 02:25:18 pm
content: Choke looks noisy. The device looks acceptable for loads less than 5 - 10W.

author: Daniel_Reyes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 05:32:55 pm
content: Quote from: Arhammon on October 16, 2015, 02:25:18 pmWhy does it look noisy?Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

author: Arhammon
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 01:43:47 pm
content: Winding of the coil looks bad. Coil in such universal modules works in non optimal profile. All this make noise.Cheapest modules, like this, with factory coil are more silent.

author: SteveLy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 04:28:05 pm
content: It's under $5. Buy it and test its performance. Even if it's garbage, you'll have fun with it and probably learn lots.