hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Neewer TT560 camera flash - How bad can a $30 flash be? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Nerull
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2015, 02:09:09 am
content: Full album here:http://imgur.com/a/XHrKwMy favorites:Milled part numbers:Globs of flux between 320V and ground:Blew a chunk out of my screwdriver with this thing, even without a full charge. Guess its time to build a discharge tool.Fun with high voltage and solder balls:

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 15, 2015, 09:39:28 am
content: We bought some of these (I think it was the 690 model though) for a project at work along with the power supply. The power supply had 350VDC on a connector with exposed pinsWhen we linked some of the flashes together with hot-shoe attachments two of the flash units blew up and the power supply took out the 32A type C MCBCanon flashes were perfect.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2015, 07:31:03 pm
content: Quote from: Nerull on March 12, 2015, 02:09:09 amCare to share a picture of the damage to the screwdriver?
Failed Apple iPod USB charger (old A1205 model) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2015, 12:51:08 pm
content: So the other night when I plugged my iPhone into a wall charger to charge, it started repeating the double-vibrate "I'm charging now!" notification. It was behaving as though it was being connected and disconnected randomly. It being used with a long third-party Lightning cable, I instinctively suspected the cable and ordered a new one and just charged the phone on my Mac Pro.A few days later, after charging one of those external USB battery packs on the same wall charger, I tried a different, original Apple Lightning cord on the wall charger, and lo and behold, the vibrating resumed anew!I pondered how to test the charger, and then stumbled upon a humble USB LED gooseneck lamp I have had for ages. I plugged it in, and the lamp started flashing!Here's what it looks like:For comparison, an identical charger in full working conditions looks like this:Anyway, if anyone has suggestions/requests for investigation avenues before I chuck it, let me know!P.S. If anyone can share with me how to embed the videos instead of links, please let me know, I couldn't find it.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2015, 08:26:32 am
content: Quote from: tooki on March 12, 2015, 12:51:08 pmGet rid of the 's' in https:

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2015, 02:10:54 pm
content: Thanks, miguelvp!
Buying a CNC that is good enough to do SMDs... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: moenad
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 11, 2015, 05:25:47 pm
content: I'm traveling to China soon, and I'm willing to pick up a "quality" CNC for regular use. But I'm mostly interested with SMDs, I read that I need at least 24k+ RPM to be able to achieve good ones.Can you recommend any CNC? also can someone help with the required details for a good one? Any link to aliexpress/alibaba/taobao will do.

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2015, 12:12:56 am
content: QuoteDon't know aboutneedbut faster is better (unless you like boards taking forever to mill). There is a limit to how fast you can go which is determined by the cutting tool material and the stuff you're cutting through, which is measured in Surface Feet per Minute (SFM):http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface_feet_per_minuteEssentially, it's a measure of the maximum speed at which the edge of the cutting tool can slide along the material you're cutting. Since the speed depends entirely on the diameter of the tool, the smaller the tool the faster you can spin it (and the faster you can push it through the material). When we are talking diameters of maybe 10mil, the limiting factor is not SFM as would be normal on larger tool, but how fast you can physically spin it. Thus a 24+krpm spindle is notnecessarybutpossible to useand desirable.However, the faster you spin it the more trouble you're likely to have with lubrication and runout. Swings and roundabouts.As for your requirement to do SMD, you need a) a very fine cutting tip, and b) practically no runout. Suppose you have only 0.1mm runout at the cutters tip: that is half your pad to pad clearance for 0.5mm pitch pads. To stand a chance, you'll need a 0.1mm cutting tip (aka 4 mil) which is going to be a) expensive, and b) prone to breaking.So, if you get a choice, go for bearing quality over speed. A really good one is unlikely to be cheap.

author: TSL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2015, 01:32:14 am
content: I have one of these....http://www.carving-cnc.com/cnc-x4800-series/cnc-x4800lpt-router-engraver-drilling-and-milling-machine.htmlAnd bought some 0.8mm end mills to produce cuts, see pic of cut board attached.Search this forum for more info - all this has been discussed here before.regardsTim
Tools for parts and BOM management - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gauravkulkarni
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 09, 2015, 06:01:04 pm
content: Hello, I am wondering what tools are used by all the people out there for BOM and parts management.I am trying to setup some software that will help a team of about 5 to 8 engineers that will be developing boards. It would be nice if the libraries for the parts can be created once and referenced by everyone. This means that everyone is using a common name for the parts in the library. While excel is a good enough starting point, the file gets corrupted very easily just with 5 people. There is also no way to do good BOM management in excel.What other tools are in use for this application?

author: ion54
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2015, 06:16:45 pm
content: OrCAD CIS and Altium have integrated part management and they can work from a common library. Are your engineers connected to a network?

author: gauravkulkarni
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 09, 2015, 06:26:35 pm
content: Quote from: ion54 on March 09, 2015, 06:16:45 pmYes they are, and they are using Altium. But we would like to have something other than just the built in library management from Altium. The places where Altium lacks is where used for parts and vendor management for vendors not supported by altium. OrCAD CIS is a little overpriced for our setup and would entail going from a more advanced board design tool (Altium) to a dated one (OrCAD).

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2015, 11:57:54 pm
content: Look at Altium's DBLib option. You'd need to put all of your SchLib and PcbLib files on a network share or somesuch, but all of the actual component info (including which Sch and Pcb symbols to use) is stored in a separate database. The database can contain whatever parameters you want--internal/external part numbers, inventory information, anything at all--and since it's in a database, you can link it to a larger ERP system as well. It supports a variety of database backends, including Access--which would probably be okay for 5-8 people, and you can do all of your forms in there if you want as well.I've posted a bit more about DBLibshere.
Anyone with a TM240A PnP ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DarkMoon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 02:46:26 pm
content: Fist time posting, so let's see how it goes...Hi there,my company purchased the TM240 Pick and Place a few months ago and I'm responsible for running it, but the machine has so many accuracy problems I can't fix, and they said the guy responsible before me didn't had any issues, but I'm no so sure about that, also I've written a few e-mails to NeoDen about support , but with no response so far.My last hope is, if someone from the eevblog has the machine and can give some advice.One of the issue is the nozzle rotation, sometimes when it picks a component, it just spins it to a random direction like crazy. At first I thought It might be a software bug, but we removed the cover of the head and it seems that the tubes that connect to the nozzles, twist too much and the motors that control the rotation can't handle it. That's my observation so far.Next issue is the machine doesn't pick the components properly i.e it doesn't pick them from the center all the time and it messes everything. I've tried every setting in the .csv file, changed nozzles just in case I have the wrong one, also changed the needle, but nothing works, it's really infuriating fixing the smd later...That's about the issues I've encountered, if there is any need for more details ?Any help would be really appreciated !Thanks~

author: mk_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 03:20:26 pm
content: ask Tonny from NeoDen for techsupport, you find email etc on their website.hthmk_

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 03:43:56 pm
content: I think there are a few users over at the Dangerous Prototypes forum - may be worth looking there

author: mazurov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 04:02:34 pm
content: Are you using job files written by the previous guy or trying to write your own? Part rotation must be between -180 deg/ + 180 deg, if you're trying to do 0-360, you may get what you're describing.

author: DarkMoon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 09, 2015, 08:05:42 am
content: Quote from: mazurov on March 06, 2015, 04:02:34 pmYeah doing my own files with the -180 / + 180, but i've noticed that if I only use either plus or minus degrees this doesn't happen, think it's twisting the tubes too much.Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on March 06, 2015, 03:43:56 pmThanks Mike, I'll probably head there and ask around, NeoDen might actually notice, that I've written to their support.
Looking for a manual - Kumagai KP series (KP422) ISA I/O card - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: philpem
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2015, 01:40:47 am
content: Hi guys,I've been working on the pick-and-place machine (an MDC ECM97) again... this time I'm doing the "hmm, how doesthisbit work?" thing with the wiring diagrams and schematics and contemplating doing a software rewrite.Does anyone happen to have a manual, or I/O port map for the Kumagai (www.kumagai.co.jp) KP422 ISA I/O card?All I know about it is that it has 16 digital inputs, 16 digital outputs and two stepper/servo motor drive outputs (CW/CCW pulses) with programmable frequency and step count. I have no idea how the I/O ports are put together from a software perspective, or what the thing can actually do.Any information would be very much appreciated! I've contacted Kumagai, but received no response, and their website has more than a few broken links :-/(The machine itself has another issue - slack drive belts - but that's a story for another thread)Cheers,Phil.
Temp controlled soldering station that will drive a vacuum desoldering iron. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tango17
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 08:59:23 pm
content: I'm looking for a temperature controlled soldering station for daily use. However, if possible, I'd like to be able to convert it into a vacuum desoldering station by buying a compatible vacuum desoldering gun, using the station to drive and control the heating element in the gun. I'd supply my own vacuum pump and rewire the gun and connector as needed. Any suggestions for this or for a combo soldering/ vacuum desoldering station?
A real-time Translator App for IOS - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: VanitarNordic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 05:48:16 pm
content: The iCamTranslator is a fast real time text translator App for tourists, students, researchers … and all individuals who may need the translation of a particular text anytime, anywhere.Feel free to visit here for more information:http://www.vanitarnordic.com/icam-translatorit has been tested for iPhone 5-5s and iPhone 6.
0.6m x 2.4m Antistatic Mat - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: CM800
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 12:44:09 pm
content: Hi everyone,I am currently working on our companies electronics lab,We really need to find some 0.6m x 2.4m Antistatic mat for the benches, two peices that size.Does anyone have any suggestions? Ideally it needs to be low cost but resonable quality.thanks,Thomas

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 09:22:32 pm
content: If you are located in Europe or the UK, I can recommend antistatonline.co.uk . They have different types of mats and they will cut them to size if you contact them. I have this type:http://www.antistatonline.co.uk/product.php/99/anti-static-mat-3-layer-smoothThe quality is really good and the service was also great.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 11:30:03 am
content: Where are you located?BTW, if you go into your user profile and set your country, the nation's flag will be displayed beneath your userID.Saves having to answer the ^ question all the time, and will get you relevant links a lot faster.
Mantis Lens protection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kmel
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 08:45:41 am
content: Hi,I am looking to buy an original Mantis... the older version, no Elite or Compact.If you use the Mantis for soldering, what do you use to protect the lens besides a solder smoke absorber?Visioneng did sell protective caps (M010). How to protect the lens against flux and solder splatter?Thanks,Klaus
Flexible PCB prototypes, GBP50 per metre!  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 10:18:06 am
content: Inkjet/plating process for cheap flex circuits :http://cittechnology.com/flexible-circuits/manufacturing/pricing.htmlPlastic substrate so needs to use low-temp solder, but wow!

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 12:44:36 pm
content: Thats been around for a long time.They print a silver or carbon particulate and then use an ion exchange process to 'grow' a layer on top of that.Basially an inkjet printer followed by a plating process.But : single sided only. No holes , no through hole plating. Fortunately reels of 0 ohm resistors are cheap.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 01:36:41 pm
content: Quote from: free_electron on March 05, 2015, 12:44:36 pmApparently their process is a bit different, and uses Inkjet vs. screen printing so minimal tooling,QuoteMaybe, but with online ordering, low tooling cost and in-house assembly?

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 02:56:54 pm
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on March 05, 2015, 01:36:41 pmoh yeah. they had that since day 1.i have a demo foil form those guys somewhere. size of an a4 sheet.it is inkjet printed but there is an additional chemical step.if i recall you need to solder with bismuth ( low temp )
CEM Door Access Controller S8000 - Looking for info. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: peterrash
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2015, 01:16:13 am
content: I picked up a nice-looking metal industrial controller enclosure with a hinged, sealed door from a government auction. I assumed that I was buying just the enclosure.When it arrived, I found that it contained a new-looking CEM S8000 Door Access Controller (pictures attached). I have no idea if it works, although it seems to power on ok and the status light is green. Does anyone know what this might be useful for? I hate to throw away any electronics that I could use for something, but I can't seem to find any info from the manufacturer or anywhere else regarding what this thing actually does, how to hook it up, etc.It looks new, and all the connectors are there for installing wires into. Some of the connectors are solder-cup type, and have never been used, which makes me think this thing might be unused. If nothing else, there are lots of relays, connectors, and socketed components that I could remove and reuse, but I'd love to find a use for the whole board in some way, or at least to understand what it is that I've bought.My best guess is that it interfaces with keypads or something and unlocks doors, but there are tons of connectors, and I don't know what else it might be capable of. Any info or suggestions would be appreciated - and sorry if this is a dumb question...
AmScope, Optika & <others> rebranded microscopes OEM? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jadew
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2015, 07:25:43 pm
content: Hey guys,I'm looking to buy a microscope and since I'm living in the EU my choices are both limited and pricey. Buying AmScope means I have to pay ~$350 for shipping + Customs + VAT on the total cost. Buying another EU brand that rebrands the same microscopes from china as AmScope, means I'd have to pay EU prices which are more than double what AmScope charges, even before VAT.Anyway, both options suck in one way or another, so I'm wondering if any of you know which company is the OEM of these microscopes so I can buy directly from china without going any lower in quality?Thanks

author: eas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2015, 07:53:03 pm
content: Quote from: jadew on March 02, 2015, 07:25:43 pmI am afraid I don't have an answer, but I'll point out that for a lot of goods "quality" is an purchase option. So, even if you find a way to buy stuff from the original manufacturer direct from China, you may not be getting the same thing you get from AmScope, or an EU brand. The metal parts may not be quite up to the spec demanded by the western brands, same with the optics. This doesn't mean that the quality you want isn't available within China, but you'll be paying with your time to make sure you get it, rather than just paying the premium you are trying to avoid.Sorry if this was obvious, but it would suck to get stuck with a grade-C that you can't easily return or exchange.
Replacement Coin Cell, CR2450 vs glucose meter. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Ed.Kloonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2015, 09:38:09 pm
content: Had to dremel out the battery compartment of my glucometer today. The two coin cells that came with the unit were over 15 years old. Bought two new ones from Jaycar. Didn't fit. The newer battery has a deeper positive terminal and plastic lip around the battery's negative terminal in the holder prevents the batteries from being inserted fully and therefore the battery door wont clip in.I got by, it's now working fine. My question is do these batteries change physical specs often? I mean, the two sizes, width and thickness which define the battery are correct. Is it the device manufacturer's fault for putting that silly, redundant lip of plastic underneath the positive terminal.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2015, 09:51:57 pm
content: There are differences between manufacturers with the 2450 and 2477 - some. e.g. renata have a lip, some, e.g. Panasonic have parallel sides .

author: Ed.Kloonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2015, 10:05:19 pm
content: Hi Mike. Yeah, saw that when I googled around.But these are both CR2450. The old and new batteries have CR2450 stamped on them. Yet, they look different side on.The unit specifies "2 x DL 2450"

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2015, 04:38:13 am
content: Glucometers are essentially given away free here in the US. Companies make their money on the test strips. I've got a box of them sitting on my desk at work. Happy to send one to someone if needed.
Teardown and fix OCXO isotemp 131 series - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2015, 07:37:11 pm
content: V ref error, F out not working, fixing Vref, R1 was open.

author: Richard Head
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 07:52:42 am
content: I wonder why they didn't use a SOT-23 for the TL431. The SOT-223 is so much larger.

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 04:39:46 pm
content: Good job on the fix, i would have bodged in an external vref.
HAKKO 941 Solder Station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: programguy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 12:06:17 am
content: I have the HAKKO 941 Solder Station with the 911 solder iron and I want to replace the soldering iron. My question is can I use any HAKKO soldering iron to replace the 911 (ie, 907, 908)?Thanks for your time,William

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 01:37:46 am
content: I doubt you'd be able to use a non-cartridge iron with it.That said, I suspect the current FM-2026 (fitted out for nitrogen), FM-2027, FM-2028, and FM-2032 (meant for SMD) will, given they fit its replacement (FX-951).
Verizon Jetpack LTE portable hotspot teardown. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: FrankenPC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 22, 2015, 10:17:56 pm
content: Found this little guy sitting on the sidewalk where I walk my dogs. We have a neighborhood association so I posted it on lost and found. No one claimed it, so, it belongs to posterity now.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2015, 07:31:19 am
content: That strange looking thing is a chip antenna.

author: FrankenPC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 12:20:55 am
content: Quote from: NiHaoMike on February 24, 2015, 07:31:19 amThanks! For what do you imagine? WiFi? LTE?

author: aveekbh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 05:45:56 pm
content: Quote from: FrankenPC on February 25, 2015, 12:20:55 amThat's probably the LTE antenna. You can see the two microstrip lines leading to it from the shielded can containing an RTR8600. That turns out to be Qualcomm's multi-mode cellular transceiver.I can't actually spot the WiFi antenna. Perhaps it's at the end of microstrip line on the corner next to the same can.I think the chip antenna is being used both for primary and diversity antennae. Does anyone know if it would really work? The two parts seem to be too close to be useful for diversity receive.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 06:53:22 pm
content: WIFI antenna is under the front plastic, you can see the slot antenna there in the top cover.

author: aveekbh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2015, 03:57:04 pm
content: Yes, there are two antennae connected using spring contacts you can see in the image below.(I thought were capacitors)

author: abyrvalg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2015, 05:37:04 pm
content: An unpopulated connector near the battery seems to be MDM's JTAG
Cree Connected LED bulb teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: macsboost
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 14, 2015, 05:12:37 am
content: Well, this is not a complete teardown, but it covers the most important part of the $15 Cree Connected LED bulb. The IOT zigbee radio module is small and easily removable to control anything other than a light! Check the video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SE-yrFMJDXo&feature=youtu.beThe module has one PWM capable output. It requires a quirky wink hub or zigbee compatible home automation system for internet access/control.

author: vikasbly44
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2015, 09:50:02 am
content: NOTE: This message has been deleted by the forum moderator Simon for being against the forum rules and/or at the discretion of the moderator as being in the best interests of the forum community and the nature of the thread.If you believe this to be in error, please contact the moderator involved.An optional additional explanation is:
Help finding tips and handle for Sparkfun or ATTEN 937b solder station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rwgast_lowlevellogicdesin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2015, 08:39:56 pm
content: So I got this sparkfun analog solder station at micro center a few years back,https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10707it is just a rebaged ATTEN 937B station. It works alright, id like to buy a hakko 888 in the future when budget allows, but this guy is working fine right now.Anyways sparkfun retired this product so all there comments are gone.... I emailed them when I first got it but cant find the email anywhere. They told me that they did not know where to get replacement heating elements or handles, I also couldnt find them on ATTENs web side. These handles have a 7 pin din connector unlike the 5 pin dins on a 907 clone. If anyone knows where I can get a new handle or element id appreciate it, especially if a genuine hakko element is compatible.Sparkfun also told me these were hakko something compatible tips but im not sure what hakko model if its the T series tips or the M series. Ebay just sells Atten tips for this thing but I want a real hakko tip, the atten tip is kind of junk. If anyone has an Atten 937bor sparkfun model and knows all the part numbers for these things especially the real hakko ones id appreciate it. I need a new tip set pretty bad. Since I just ordered a rigol just buying a hakko is out of the question right now!

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 24, 2015, 02:46:57 am
content: Tip-wise, the T18 series is the replacement for the discontinued 900M series; they're interchangable.Re: heaters: Have a look atthis threadand others. I must get around to measuring mine someday; preferably before it blows...(edit: Sensor = 1.3 ohms, heater = 11.3 ohms.)AFAIK, for a 'genuine' Atten 907 there's no difference between the 5 & 7 pin version except that on the 7 pin version 3 & 4 are vacant. No flag, so no idea of where you are, but most of the reputable Atten dealers I see around list the 907 in both versions.BTW, on an Atten it's a 5 or 7 pin generic 'microphone connector', not a DIN. I've only ever seen DIN connectors on the cheaper fakes of the knockoffs (yes, there are fakes of the Atten knockoffs of the Hakko original...). Dunno if I'd trust a cheap DIN connector to handle the current - I've literally seen some of them melt in the sun on a hot day...
remove this topic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: treniora
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 16, 2014, 10:36:03 am
content: I have problem with wrong setpoint ( I think that is wrong resistor), can someone help me with a detailed photo of the PCB?

author: vulkan35
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 08:21:57 pm
content: Quote from: treniora on January 10, 2015, 05:05:20 pmhttp://forum.atnel.pl/topic1234-330.html#p29654

author: Fred27
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 22, 2015, 05:17:37 pm
content: There you go. I tried to show the connectors as clearly as I could.
... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cleaningOut
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 04:27:41 am
content: ..

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 12:00:09 pm
content: QuoteThe input bias current would be too much for that opamp.I would get a cmos or at least jfet opamp for that.Short of it, use a jfet or mosfet pair in front of your lm324 and you are ready to go.National (?) has a few excellent appnote on pa-level current measurement.

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 06:46:39 pm
content: The datasheet shows typical input bias current of 40na and max of 100na, depending on which ones you see.That's almost 10% of 1ua.On the other hand, most (genuine) opamps will come within the spec so maybe you will get luck so give it a try - if it doesn't pass, you can try other alternatives:1) alternative #1: use a jfet. Go to your local radioshack and get a TL0xx: they have a typical input bias current of less than 1na (10-20pa typically).2) alternative #2: put a mosfet pair in front of your opamp - this is often used to improve input stage performance or to add output offset adjustment capabilities.Here is a basic nanoammeter, with a nmos input buffer, with a 1v/1ua gain, set by R4.For it to be practical, you will need to implement offset adjustment (easily done on the input's legs), etc. Resistor values, aside from R4, are not critical.

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 07:37:04 pm
content: Size R4 to suit your project.Yes, higher current is easier to measure.

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 08:45:56 pm
content: You will need to make minor changes for single rail operation.

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2015, 01:43:04 am
content: Glad that it worked for you.Those ammeters are fairly easy to make, especially if your read-out is a coil meter or a battery powered dmm - single rail would be sufficient in those cases.
Datasheets for ch341 serial<->usb converter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Krakonos
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 02:54:04 pm
content: Hi!I've been experimenting with some stuff here, and needed a serial port in 1200 baud, 7E2 configuration, and noticed, I don't have one. Most of the converters I have are ch341 based, even the supposedly "good ones" from local store, and the Linux kernel does not have support for parity and two stop bits, since there are no datasheets. I am willing to write a patch (it's not that difficult), but need to know which registers control these features, and can not find a datasheet (and people claim it works in Windows).Maybe someone here can get me one, or at least read out the register setup for parity and stop bits? Let me know if you do!Thanks!

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 04:49:46 pm
content: Fromhttps://github.com/karlp/ch341-linux/blob/master/drivers/CH341SER_LINUX/ch34x.c; it looks like this is the official driver so you can RE the configuration from it if you really want to write your own; it seems that a byte is written to set the mode in the following format:Bits 0 and 1 of config byte select number of bits: 5 (00), 6, 7, and 8 (11)Bit 2 enables 2 stop bitsBit 3 enables parity generationBits 4 and 5 select parity type:00 - odd01 - even10 - mark11 - spaceBits 6 and 7 enable RX/TX (mention of SFR here - this is probably based on an 8051)Basically the same format (excluding bits 6 and 7) as the ones in the LCR of a 8250 UART...

author: Krakonos
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 08:47:38 pm
content: Thanks! I've seen this come up in google, but I always thought it is the same as in the main tree.
Selecting test equipment for lab. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: CM800
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 11:20:01 am
content: MOVED TO:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/choosing-lab-equipment-for-our-new-electronics-lab/

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 11:54:15 am
content: What is the budget?The power supply will probably gobble up a serious amount of cash.

author: CM800
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 12:00:40 pm
content: We are not a larger company, Budget is fairly low but if a piece of equipment with x specs can be justified, We would get it.

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2015, 06:09:55 pm
content: Oscilloscope - since you mentioned no bandwidths needed or frequency requirements. Rigol DS1054Z is one of the best budget scopes. Since you are working on high power electronics you likely will need a high quality differential probe. Expect to pay just as much if not more for the differential probe than you did for the scope.Precision Power Supply - How precise? That's like saying you want a fast car (this could mean a tricked-out civic, a pony car, a porche or an F1). Many on here love the old used HP 6114A and 6115A series or the Power Designs Precision models. Very tight tolerances, low ripple and with the HP you can combine more than one of them in a variety of ways. You will pay way more for new (easily 10x-50x more).Precision Multimeter - Once again, we need specs. Words like precision are relative.
LTC 3108 and LTC 3105 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Kedar264
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 07:11:28 pm
content: ultralow power energy harvesting and power management solution, step up conversion starts @ 20 millivolts, how it works?

author: dom0
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 07:39:13 pm
content: With a step up transformer instead a simple inductor, some clever engineering and that's it I guess

author: Orpheus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 05:24:00 pm
content: I experimented with the LTC3108 years ago.It's important to note that you must choose one of four different step-up input transformers. No single one will cover the chip's entire range. IIRC, the reference design specified components with step-up values of 1:100, 1:50, 1:20 and 1:10 [i.e. four values covering just one order of magnitude] so I wouldn't expect any given component choice to serve over a very wide range of inputs.The input/conversion is pretty straightforward: the chip grounds one end of the transformer input coil [at 10k-100kHz], generating pulses which come out the "output coil" of the transformer at a much more manageable voltage for accumulation/conversion by the chip. That 20mv minimum input becomes 2v spikes via the 1:100 transformer specified for that input level.The real magic of this kind of chip, IMHO, is in the control electronics, which is often ignored. Depending on the exact chip you select in this class, you get can pins that directly support efficient storage/recovery with an ultracap, nice control/status signals to feed a microcontroller in addition to your primary load, etc. When choosing a Energy Harvesting chip from a blank slate (i.e. no specific manufacturer) I find myself looking much more at how each chip's OUTPUTs (controls, multiple Vout/Vaux, etc) suits my project much more than I look at the "high tech" input side.Don't be bashful about asking for samples. I'm a physician, not an engineer, but LT happily sampled me 2 each of each of their LTC 31xx variants and Coilcraft sampled me 2 each of the transformers, without any fudging on my part (Admittedly, it was a new chip back then, and I have been doing electronics, including research lab experiments since the 70s)Once you are set up, take a LOT of measurements. I had to move on after several proof of concept projects, and in the years since, I've often wished I'd taken more measurements. I might have done more projects since then, if I'd gotten that data when I had it set up. It's a pain to dig those components out and set up the test gear again to see if a project idea is even viable.
GC Electronics 12-2157 Snap Vacuum Solder Popper Desoldering Tool - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DavidDLC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 11:18:25 pm
content: http://www.markertek.com/product/s2157/gc-electronics-12-2157-snap-vacuum-solder-popper-desoldering-toolHas anybody used this product ?Is it good enough for small desoldering jobs ?I think this is the one Ben Heck uses to desolder stuff in his shows.Any info will be really appreciated.David.
Another x-ray fluorescence spectrometer :  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2015, 07:40:21 pm
content: Fischerscope XDDDVM XRF analyzer :Ebay listing :http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fischerscope-XDVM-x-ray-fluorescence-spectrometer-XRF-analyser-/201284818476?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2edd82962c
Upgrading BGA rework station machine - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jetwolfk2
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2015, 08:52:01 am
content: I am considering getting a better reworking machine which i use for bga, are there any models that you recommendSize of chips will be 25mm on average so i cant use a SMT machine

author: PrimeTech
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 24, 2015, 07:09:15 pm
content: It depends on your budget and technology of preference.For IR I recommend the Jovy RE-8500For hot airIntro machines, the zm-r-5830 or the shuttle star sp-360cAdvanced machine: the zm-r-6200c or sv-550Here are some videosR-6200cRE-8500You can purchase on the Advanced Reworks online store or ebay.Regards,D.R

author: jetwolfk2
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2015, 10:30:20 pm
content: Quote from: PrimeTech on January 24, 2015, 07:09:15 pmThe most important thing for me is reliability, i would hate for my machine to stop working and i have a bin of repairs waitingI looked at martin expert and well they are definitely out of my price point i was looking at the scotle ir360The jovy re 8500 seems different in its useI also found this hulk bga rework stationhttp://thebgareworkmachine.comseems to come a great warranty and seems cool that it can remove a socketguess a bit more time is needed to make a choice, i definitely do not want a cheap machinepossibly this model toohttp://www.jovy-sys.com/jovysystems/en/products/bga-rework-stations/bga-rework-station-jetronix-eco.html

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 06, 2015, 07:59:37 pm
content: Quote from: jetwolfk2 on February 04, 2015, 10:30:20 pmNothing extraordinary. I was able to remove even PCI slots without any damage on RE-7500. And actually it suck for that because of the small bottom heater. RE-8500 do not have that issue.

author: jetwolfk2
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2015, 08:40:11 pm
content: Yes i was referring to the fact that its IR so i can remove sockets, with air it tends to melt it
INA219B reading vs UT61E as it warms up - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2015, 05:04:56 am
content: I've been doing some temperature vs shunt reading deciding if I would upgrade my shunt to one with better temp-co for my B3603 DC-DC buck board.With the stuff all set up, out of curiosity, I did a graph to see how theAdafruit INA219'sshunt reacts under the same circumstances as the shunt warms up by current and cools back down by a fan.- Cooling is done by have a PC case-fan 2.5 inch blow over the PSU (and the INA219).- Fan cycle is8 minutes ON (cool down), 35 minutes off (warm up)- Temperature isnot temperature of the shunt but air-temperaturenear the PSU shunt.- Temperature is measured by an LM35z.- UT61E serves as the bench mark, set at the 10A range, connected in series with 2ohm 10watt- Current is set to desired (around 1.6A) by setting the PSU voltage at the start of the run- An empty cycle (i.e. not logged cycle) was ran before data log begin- Room has air vent, house heat (and night cooling) is the only expected disruption to air temperatureI expected the INA219B reading to change as the current warms the shunt and as the fan cools it back down. The INA219B resisted change and tracks the UT61E's amp measurement a lot better than I expected!Thought you may find this data interesting.Rick
Fast 'Cheap' Chinese Pick and Place machines - are they any good ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: JamesLynton
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2015, 02:08:26 am
content: 'Cheap' Chinese Pick and Place machines - are they any good ?Seen a little talk going around about the Neoden TM220A, TM240A & TM245P + another company Ying Xing seems to be making remarkably similar machines for less money, namely the CHMT36.Question is, are they really upto the task & has anyone even seen the Ying Xing machines ? ...Intent on setting up automated production for hobby/small business use & with a claimed (upto) 7200 part placements per hour, an impressive throughput could be achieved, particularly with multiple machines as they seem to be rather compact compared to the traditional huge booth arrangements.Neoden:http://www.neodentech.com/bbx/996360-996360.htmlYing Xing:http://www.zjyingxing.com/e_products/?big_id=2&m=Pick-Place-Machine.htmlThis chap got a TM240A:http://rayshobby.net/new-toy-neoden-tm-240a-automatic-pick-and-place-machine/Video from above page:Prices aprox delivered on these machines (to UK) & quick specs on them follow:Neoden:TM220a - $4,618usd - 7,000pcs/h - 16 feeder slots - 200x220mm pcb area.TM240a - $5,780usd - 7,000pcs/h - 28 feeder slots - 400x360mm pcb area.TM245p - $7,332usd - 10,000pcs/h - 49+ feeder slots - 390x370mm pcb area.Ying Xing:CHMT36 - $4,570usd - 7,200pcs/h - 37 feeder slots - 305x350mm pcb area.TM220a:TM240a:TM245p:CHMT36:Thoughts ?

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2015, 05:28:23 am
content: Head over to the dangerousprototypes.com forum, there's a couple threads there about these.
Teardown: TekPower TP3030E 30V/30A adjustable switching power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ttt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2015, 10:38:45 pm
content: I got a TekPower TP3030E on Amazon recently since my linear power supply is not adequate to power some large LED panels at full brightness. The product description for this switching power supply says: "This model is specifically designed with low ripple and noise." Whatever that means. At a rock bottom price of $200 I could not resist.The main knobs (flimsy) and front LCD controller board are exactly same as for the TP3010E model which has been reviewed a couple of weeks ago on this board.Inside the main PWM controller is a TI TL494, and the main rectifier are a couple of ON2 MUR3020WTG. I need to open the thing again to determine what the power devices are.Now, 30A is a lot and I expected to see some thick wiring inside. Well, I certainly found some heavy soldering as you can see in the pictures... The bodge on the underside is pretty scary. And what is that solder bridge in about the same area?What really got me is the claim of low noise. I see 450mV peak to peak noise at 5V and no load (same under load), see pictures from my scope. That can't be right? Should I return this sucker? I am not sure if it's even worth doing further testing on this power supply.

author: Christopher
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 06:35:18 pm
content: Majority of that ripple is just crap on the line.Probe the output with a sharp tip x10 probe and a good short ground, turn 20Mhz filter on, you should see some repeatable ripple of the cap charging at about 100-300kHz (similar to your last pic).

author: ttt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 08:47:25 pm
content: Quote from: Christopher on January 29, 2015, 06:35:18 pmYou are right. Tried to probe again today and even with 100Mhz BW I can't reproduce the noise issue anymore.About 140mV peak to peak now.

author: ttt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2015, 05:38:39 am
content: Quote from: AcHmed99 on January 29, 2015, 11:55:37 pmYes, though I have no way to test for that much load.Quote from: AcHmed99 on January 29, 2015, 11:55:37 pmThere are two power transistors (unfortunately in a heat transfer sleeve so I can't see the label). They way they are connected looks like a half-bridge topology. DC output GND is directly connected to the PWM controller GND.

author: iampoor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2015, 07:46:45 am
content: Whats the heaviest load you can test it under?Very interested in how it performs! Crazy price!

author: ttt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2015, 01:06:46 pm
content: Update: Looks like they took a 230V switch mode power supply design and bodged it to run on 110V. The AC inputs of the bridge rectifier are shorted with a bare copper wire piece and one of the AC inputs is redirected (blue wire) to a large capacitor.
STATRON 2224.9 Teardown and repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: babysitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2015, 05:19:48 pm
content: Hi folks,since I moved Iwas not yet able too lazydidn't set up my electronics lab properly.My PC desk - also not properly set up - was intended to be stuffed with a DMM and a PSU at least.The PSU is a Statron 2224.9http://www.statron.de/details/330This was a present from my former boss and served me well already for many years. Its the old edition with coaxial potentiometers for U and I setting, the new datasheet talks about a multiturn for voltage and 270° for current.However, it had a error that has appeared before, several years ago: The voltage display develops a offset which was fixed by reseating a connector on board. Last time I sprayed it with KONTAKT 60 as a preventive measure, today I changed to Teslanol Oszillin - should be better.Having it open I give you the inside view. The filenames give you the idea what you are looking at.
Cheap Wemo / Wi-fi switch alternatives - has anyone tried these?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: salil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 09:32:54 am
content: I was looking on eBay recently and came across several different items which seem to accomplish a similar function to that of belkin's ~$50 wemo device - switch on/off mains powered devices via wi-fi but for as little as $14 shipped to USA from China. Here are some of them, let me know what you think or if anyone has experience with anything similar:http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=311248880182http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=311231803821http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=281539572860http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=221644989549Which one do you think has the best software? One of my concerns is that if you MUST use their app for these devices to function, then a couple years down the road if the app is no longer supported by current mobile OS's...it would seem like the switch becomes a brick. Tempting to order one for $14, though. Any thoughts?

author: dave_k
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 11:32:32 am
content: For $14 I wouldn't trust them to be type approved .. imagine if one cooked up and burnt your house down? Buy one, tear it down and see if you'd be satisfied leaving it plugged in 24/7.
Input DC Voltage Range - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EEVaditya
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2015, 05:29:45 pm
content: Hello,What is the DC Input voltage range for S3108PE 8 Port 10/100Mbps Fast Ethernet Switch

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2015, 09:56:40 pm
content: A simple Google search for S3108PE points you to a page like this one:http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/macruran/product-detailMhEnlcJoRQVf/China-8-Port-10-100m-Switch-QL-S3108PE-ME-.htmland the description says 7.5v 800 mA ... so if whatever you have looks similar to what's on that page, look for a 7.5v 750mA or better adapter.
The inside of an EPS/ELA 250/75/20 Electronic Load - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: martin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 23, 2015, 08:54:14 am
content: I got this DC load from my lovely wife (she is the best) for my birthday.The load is a good example of excellent German design and built quality. The specs of the load are:Load Voltage: 0,35 V – 75 VLoad Current: 0 A – 20 AMax. Load Power: 250 WWe found it from eBay and it was a steal. The GPIB options allows me to integrate it into my setup. Unfortunately one of the connection terminal jacks was broken off when the load arrived. While replacing it, I took the opportunity to take some pictures.