hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
maximum weight for stuff hanging off connectors? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2014, 06:57:39 pm
content: So sometimes we see modules that hang off of equipment attached by BNC/banana connectors, what is the maximum safe weight to hang something?When I made several altoids tin plug in modules I designed them specific to my equipment and supplied cribbing inside of the container (some coins or whatever), so it fit well and put no strain on the equipment.. if you set up the cribbing correctly.But what if I wanted to sell something that plugs directly into a oscope or multimeter? Could I possibly be selling something that damages someones equipment? I know there are radically different setups and I can't expect someone to make cribbing that support the module plugged into their multimeter 3 feet off the bench(I could see someone cutting dowels or stacking the old school text books....) but its pretty ridiculous if its more then a few inches, no one wants to ghetto up their work bench with scaffolding.Now, I see sheilded banana plugs (like multimeter probes) being pretty robust. But what about a BNC connector on an oscilloscope, N on a spectrum analyzer....

author: kizzap
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 18, 2014, 11:59:02 pm
content: So many variables you will need to take into account. From the top of my head:Flex in the PCB,possible breakage in the PCB,the glue holding copper to the fibreglass shearing,the solder joints shearing,warping the plastic housing,whether the BNC is bolted to the housing or not,the material the BNC connector is made of,the wall thickness or the BNC connector.That said, I would think they would be able to hold a small amount of weight, but if you have something heavy, I would suggest connecting it with coax, and not leave it hanging.

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2014, 02:12:58 am
content: Quote from: kizzap on April 18, 2014, 11:59:02 pmah well how many AA batteries are a small amount of weight?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2014, 12:15:00 pm
content: It's not really weight but torque - a long protruding module would be far worse than a stubby one, even if it weighed less.

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2014, 08:01:02 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on April 19, 2014, 12:15:00 pmexcellent point
Voltmeter HP 400F AC problem. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SAUL BRITTO
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2014, 12:43:08 am
content: When i turn on the meter, it hits the end of the scale very strongly,when turn of too.I looked the service manual and did all the procedures,but, does not resolve my problem.Can someone help me? thanks in advance.
Amscope Trinocular Simul-focal question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: don
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2014, 10:53:18 pm
content: Hi,I just purchased one of these and all seems well...except if I look down the camera tube I can see an obstruction. Fortunately obstruction is not showing up in camera images. Though I'm really surprised it does not. I know a few folks here have the same hear and I would really appreciate someone checking theirs out and letting me know if its normal.Thanks,Don

author: don
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2014, 01:22:56 am
content: I spoke with amscope tech support. They looked down the tube on one of theirs and said they saw something blocking light circle in lower left corner as well. So looks like all is well.
Another piece of historic equipment: HP 400F AC Millivoltmeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2011, 10:53:55 pm
content: Here's another piece of my collection of antique measurment equipment:The HP 400F AC Millivoltmeter.I had to open it to clean the contacts on the range switch. As you can see on the picture belowthey had some severe oxidaton problems, it had gotten worse in the last few months so I decidedit was time to have a look inside the thing.I can now date my unit to about 1973/74 from date codes on the Sprague electrolytics inside.According to information found on the www it was in production from 1966 to about 1985 inthe US, England and Germany. Mine's got the "Made in W. Germany" label on the back.The double sided PCB is of highest quality as you would expect from an instrument such as this.Circuitry is completely discrete, not a single IC in sight.The scale is calibrated to use dBm (1mW @ 600R) and as such is ideally suited for audio work.Specified frequency range reaches up to 4MHz, fullscale error depends on frequency and selectedrange, it varies between 0,5% and 2%.The meter can be powered from 115/230V AC or from batteries.My unit was last calibrated in 1988, at least that's what the sticker on it says. It still works fine,even though I don't bother to have my meters calibrated. As long as they all more or lessagree with each other it's OK with me.

author: amspire
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2011, 03:04:21 am
content: I used to use these for Audio/Telecom work back in the early 80's.In many ways, better for audio then digital as the meters have all the needed accuracy, and the meter is so much more responsive. You can pick up problems that are easily missed with a digital meter.I almost bought one about 6 months ago, but with my bench space, I just wouldn't use it much.A real HP classic.Richard.

author: seattle
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2011, 04:30:34 am
content: This is quite a find. I just reviewed a NatSemi data sheet (LP2975) that was revised in June 2011, and they reference measurements made on an HP400. Think about that: No telling how many pieces of equipment are in that NatSemi lab, and they report an HP400 measurement.Thanks for the pics

author: SAUL BRITTO
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2014, 12:18:04 am
content: I have one unit hp 400F too,but the pointer of vu, hits the final of scale very strong,i dont now why dont crash! It do that when on or of,can you help me?
LED Light Troubleshoot/teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2014, 09:57:32 pm
content: It's rather interesting, though I think mostly a gimmick. I would be surprised if it was as efficient as a fluorescent fixture.Thanks for any answers to questions!

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2014, 10:46:47 pm
content: That DIP chip is (i think) a Viper from ST , probably used to generate 5v or something like that for the mcu, eeprom etc .. The capacitor by the transformer is bad (you can see the top is swollen), so the output voltage is not stable, which can screw up with the controller and other parts.The other side of the board is just a plain 100-240v -> 50v and then you have on the other side a LED driver which is controlled through pwm by the microcontroller.

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2014, 12:07:51 pm
content: Quote from: mariush on April 08, 2014, 10:46:47 pmA OK cool, really I didn't notice, nice! I would like to use the light so that's good to know. Nice, so it is very simple really, I appreciate the explanation.
Thermocouples in Weller DS80 and DSX120 desoldering irons. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DJMota
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2014, 03:48:22 pm
content: Hello to all.I have a dude.I would like to know, if the desolderings irons weller DS80 and DSX120 have the same thermocouple sensor. I am thinking if I can do a homemade driver to DSX120 model, but I found one circuit for the DS80 only.Also I would like to know, if someone has assembled this circuit and if it works well.http://silicium31.chez.com/Electronique/DS80/DS80.htmGreetings.
Mantis Compact vs Mantis Elite - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Richard Head
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2014, 01:19:26 pm
content: Does anybody know what the differences are between the Vision Engineering Mantis Compact and the Mantis Elite?I think it has to do with the viewer area but the website was a bit vague.Also, does anybody have any experiance using the compact version?ThanksDick

author: sacherjj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2014, 01:28:00 pm
content: The elite has a little more zoom range capability. I don't remember seeing much difference when we were looking through them at the APEX show. The one thing I noticed is they both look like a joke, compared to the Lynx. But I believe the Lynx was multiples of the price of the other two. We are trying to decide on Lynx vs camera based human inspection vs AOI.

author: Richard Head
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2014, 01:43:58 pm
content: Thanks for the feedback I'll have a look at the Lynx, but if it's more expensive than the Mantis then I definately won't be getting one.

author: sacherjj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2014, 11:23:59 am
content: I would much rather have a Mantis Compact or Elite vs my standard stereo microscope. But if someone else was paying the bills, the Lynx is about as big of a jump again. I found it interesting that the light channel is perfectly parallel for a section, so there are about to make a Lynx that is high adjustable without changing the table and board height. Useful for positions with greatly varying people height during use.

author: Richard Head
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2014, 06:20:11 am
content: I'm getting tired of using my illuminated magnifier for SMD work. I end up fogging the thing up by getting to close to it!I think a Mantis is in order. Pity they are so damn pricey.Dick

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2014, 07:11:32 am
content: Too bad we are all living on different countries/continents or we could do a power buy.
hakko Fm-202 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bsahdy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2014, 04:35:32 pm
content: helloi have a hakko fm-202 that i got from a friend but i need a cord and iron. the actual station is good and working.hakko sells just the iron for $77 USD.does anybody know of a cheaper iron that would work with this station? like a Yihua knock-off or something?thanks
CDR2005 radio help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: markm6164
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2014, 07:05:03 pm
content: I need some help repairing my brothers car radio. Basically there is no sound output from the unit. Inside there are two TDA7375 amplifiers on the output stage. There are audio signals going into the amplifiers but nothing on the outputs. Also between the outputs of the TDA7375's and the speaker connectors at the back of the set there is a capacitor and a 10 ohm in series. All the 10 ohm resistors have burn marks and measure between 11 and 30 ohms. One last thing before confirming faulty TDA7375's is i notice from the datasheet there is a standby, pin activated via CMOS? I am an auto electrician that dips into electronics as a hobby. I don't understand how the standby pin works. I measure around 1.9v dc on this pin. How can i enable this pin so the outputs should be on? If that pin is enabled that would be my last check to confirm faulty amplifiers. Hope all that makes sense and thanks before hand for any replies. I will link below to the datasheet to make things easier.Thanks Markhttp://www.audiosound.info/katlisty/TDA7375.pdf

author: markm6164
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2014, 10:10:36 pm
content: Just found 5 blown output resistors. I removed them and my standby pin goes to 4.8v and i have audio on the outputs of the amps.
soldering station irons with a very flexible cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 02, 2014, 11:50:32 am
content: I'm looking for a BASIC, new soldering station and I'd like to buy one with a soldering iron with a thin and very, very flexible cable.I'm using Xytronic and it's a good product for the price, but the iron cable it's a total mess: I hate when the iron cable folds on itself and does not stretch easily.I'd like to have the same flexibility of the lab silicon cables.What do you suggest? Hakko or Weller?

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 02, 2014, 12:13:59 pm
content: I have a Hakko 936 and the cable is very flexible. Go with the FX-888D. I am sure the cable is just as flexible.

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2014, 12:24:41 pm
content: I own a Xytronic too (LF1600) and the cable is kinda bad, but I've used worse. Unfortunately your options for reasonable price are very limited to non-existant.Hakko and JBC are very expensive in EU. Basic JBC is over 400€. I would consider Ersa I-Con Nano or Pico depending on your needs, they have a comfortable pen. Weller also seems nice but I haven't had any hands-on experience with lower end models.I'm thinking about just replacing the cable with some thin shielded 4-wire cable and that's all.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2014, 04:48:34 am
content: I can agree with the Hakko FX888 having a flexible cable.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2014, 05:01:32 am
content: FWIW, Weller also uses flexible cables (silicone). But so should most, if not all, of the major brands (Weller, Hakko, Ersa, JBC, Metcal, ...).Pricing will likely be an issue though, but used might be an alternative to consider (base unit + iron as a bare minimum to make it work).

author: DL8RI
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2014, 09:29:46 am
content: Hi,in terms of flexible cable, i've (until now) had nothing better as the Weller WS81 (newer edition).It's a little bit thicker than most other ones, but very flexible.

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 03, 2014, 11:22:27 am
content: thank you all
Teardown of a 12V 5A 60W Switched Mode PSU .. sold as a PSU for LED's - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: AhhhChoo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 01:48:08 pm
content: .

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 03:19:15 pm
content: That layout around the opto is indeed a laugh.And what is cheap, for 50% more you have a TDK-Lambda PSU with 100000+ MTBF

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 06:29:01 pm
content: These PSUs (i always buy them, the only problem is to still have a cabinet to keep dust out) , this one has a bit less amps because they go in steps of 25W'shttp://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/511818/Inbouwnetvoeding-12-VDC-42-A-50-W-TDK-Lambda-LS50-12?queryFromSuggest=trueSo 19 euro's is around 16 poundsThis is the 6 Amps version going for 2 euro's morehttp://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/511823/Inbouwnetvoeding-12-VDC-6-A-75-W-TDK-Lambda-LS75-12?queryFromSuggest=true
Step down voltage transformer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mtc2629
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2014, 10:52:35 am
content: I just wondering what step down transformer to get because i want the Hakko FX-888D Soldering Iron but it comes with the us plug any suggestions of how to fix that problem

author: han
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2014, 11:21:58 am
content: A picture explain everything

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2014, 11:47:22 am
content: You mean the voltage, or the plug?

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2014, 11:49:13 am
content: As I see oh the pcb the connections are for 220v. Why the step down?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2014, 11:54:24 am
content: Different transformers for 110 and 220V, but same top PCB. Look carefully and you will see it is marked 100/220V.

author: han
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2014, 12:04:18 pm
content: You right, only 220-240 V.

author: han
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2014, 02:48:08 pm
content: Maybe not a best solution,Did you have a unused transformer (from Audio amplifier or anything) that have both 110/220 primary winding?I'm sure you can make step up/down with it...(after safely insulate the secondary winding)about the rating just make sure the transformer is rated for more then 90W (as far i remember the heater have about 70W rating)with the configuration:0-110V0-220Vstep up/down..
Teardown and failure investigation of optocouplers. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ResR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2014, 08:23:07 pm
content: Well I came across a very interesting failure, I found 4 used 1979 vintage optoisolators ILD-74 (and a lot of 5V logic chips, mostly SN74LS series), I unmounted it from their sockets inside some kind of apparatus, that didn't had any covers left, I was planning to use those chips in a project, but those dual optocouplers had one half of the optoisolation units faulty and other half not. So I took a knife to scrape the share line onto the chip and used heavy duty wire cutters (the toolbox ones) to literally cut the chip to half, the working half facing down onto the bed (one half of one chip took off and never landed). Been careful to separate the working half of the optoisolators , I took the faulty part and cut it half in a center to reveal two semiconductors and a rubbery substance between them. I accidentally ripped the bonding wires off from the first time, so I cut other way second time just to remove the top 1/3 of the chip from the another faulty half f the chip to reveal the semiconductors with the rubbery substance intact. I measured the both sides and the phototransistor seemed working, also the IR-led didn't had any light output visible for the phone camera.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 10:19:34 am
content: Those old IR emitters did have a failure mode where they lost emission. The temporary solution ( often worked for a long time) was to up the current through them. This was a big issue with those used in older HP laser printers where they would get intermittent paper feed issues that eventually showed as a jam with no paper present. Solution was to solder a 470R resistor across the existing resistor as you otherwise had to take the unit apart to get the board out. Would cure it for a long time, and when it occurred again you needed to strip it to replace the switch.
HD camera hangs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Erwin Ried
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 11:48:40 pm
content: Hi!Any idea what can cause this issue:After seconds (and/or minutes) displaying the live stream in the viewfinder it starts to corrupt with lines and after few seconds in that state the camera freeze partially (recorded video goes corrupt, and camera won't do anything else but some items in the HUD change, like for example the macro icon still works if I activate it).http://www.insigniaproducts.com/products/cameras-camcorders-photo-frames/NS-DV111080F.htmlIt is an old camera but I just want to know if it might be something like a cap maybe or it should go to the trash directly.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 05:09:14 am
content: Most likely failing small can electrolytics on the main board, and if you open it and see any 4V rated caps change them out wherever you see them. That should cure the fault.I have a Sony camera with the same symptoms, and as there are over 50 caps on that board I decided buying another was the best solution. I got the camera for free, and as the battery was dying and not available as a pattern part ( but now has 2 new cells from an old laptop pack siliconed in place) and is the cost of a new camera it will be torn down some time.

author: Erwin Ried
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 12:36:06 pm
content: Thanks! will take a look. I guess you never tried anything with your sony camera after getting the new one.

author: Erwin Ried
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2014, 03:35:04 pm
content: Yeah, lots of caps in several small boards. And just by looking none seems damaged or anything, so I think it goes to the trash :/ (also it had like 100 screws! with different sizes and colors)

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2014, 07:18:31 pm
content: Those do not bulge, but just leak onto the board as they die, and eat the traces out. If you desolder one and it smells like rotten fish it is leaky.
experience with Hameg HMO series of DSOs? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dfnr2
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2011, 05:57:37 pm
content: Hi all,Does anybody have any actual experience with the Hameg HMO series of scopes? These look like nice scopes, with a lower price point than the Agilent X-series equivalents, with versatile serial decode and trigger options, including serial decode/trigger from the analog channels. The Agilents look sleeker, and the ability to upgrade bandwidth and channels is nice, but the upgrade prices are quite expensive.I'd be very interested in hearing the impressions of anyone who has used the Hamegs, and especially opinions of those who have had the opportunity to compare them against the tek MSO3xxx or agilent X-series scopes.Thanks,Dave

author: 0xdeadbeef
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2011, 06:36:33 pm
content: I don't think that anybody here has actually tested them yet, but this thread discusses the HMO vs. Agilent DSOX topic a bit and maybe the threadstarter can report about his HMO724 if he gets one:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=5165.15Also Dave's video blog #207 discusses the HMO line (well, the R&S representative does):http://www.eevblog.com/2011/10/17/eevblog-207-rohde-schwarz-hameg-oscilloscopes-3-of-3/My impression is that the HMO line gives you more bang for the buck. A DSOX2000 is worse in almost every aspect apart from wfs/s and a DSOX3000 with the appropriate extensions costs more than twice. It's said to be quiet, to have a pretty good frontend, low noise and 2M full bandwidth memory. Then again, of course seeing is believing and I'd also appreciate a 1st hand review.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 02:43:20 pm
content: Those Hameg HMO1000 series scopes have rather poor VPO performance and there is even no trigger holdoff setting. I was not much impressed.On the other hand, there is trigger holdoff at HMO2000.

author: mjkuwp
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 05:14:03 pm
content: don't know about the hack but there is an announced promotion by Agilent starting April 1st. (not a joke). The software options will be all unlocked with a single option purchase. on the 2000 series it is $500.
HP 2215A voltage issue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gwalters
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 18, 2014, 01:18:31 pm
content: The voltage set to 1v/div shows exactly 1/2 the voltage indicated by my fluke and Simson 260. Any idea what is wrong? If the division count is 4 then the voltmeters say the voltage is 8 instead of the 4 per the scope. (Scope set to DC volts). I'm at a loss.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2014, 01:35:10 pm
content: Both channels?Probe gone bad?

author: DmitryL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2014, 03:57:51 pm
content: Quote from: gwalters on March 18, 2014, 01:18:31 pmknob fitted with offset ?calibration knob in the center of "volt/div" knob is not in a right position ?

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2014, 05:28:07 pm
content: Tek 2215A?
My favorite screwdriver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2014, 02:19:51 am
content: I have a 4 1/2" long reversible shaft screwdriver, philips and blade. I use it all the time, I've had it for years and I'm not sure what the materials are. It's got a red very hard plastic handle with a 1/8" hexagonal socket that fits those 1/8" male/female bolts that hold the RS232 or VGA connectors on the PC chassis and others. So it doubles as a nut driver in a pinch. The shaft cannot be bent by hand. It would only bend if I used a hammer and a lot of force. I am thinking of making some but of different sizes but I want to figure out the materials.

author: Frost
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2014, 11:39:46 am
content: Quote from: GiskardReventlov on March 14, 2014, 02:19:51 amLooks like a Diamond or TiN coating.http://www-de.wera.de/product_detail.html?L=1&file=root_category_tools_for_power_use_the_range_of_wera_bits_bits_for_phillips_screws_851_4_bdc_ph&lang=en

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2014, 12:41:03 pm
content: The one with ice

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2014, 03:49:25 pm
content: I don't think it has a coating on it. Maybe you mean treated. It doesn't rust so I guess that's another hint. To really ID this I'll need to contact a metallurgist I think.
Video : Review/Teardown Gembird Car USB Charger using the classic MC34063 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2014, 03:58:32 pm
content: I took advantage of a ~75% off deal at a local computer store and bought this car usb charger for less than 2$ including shipping to my door because I figured it could make for a nice video, especially if it was using a plain dc-dc converter.It turns out I was right and this DC-DC converter is a classic MC34063 step-down regulator, though the pcb quality is (imho) much better compared to similar Chinese products. They're even using 0402 (or smaller) resistors and capacitors on the back of the pcb and they used silicon to glue down the inductor!Initially, I only wanted to open it up and plot some efficiency graphs at various voltages and current loads, to see if the charger is actually true to its rating, but the chip itself was damaged - I may have accidentally wired the 12v power supply the other way around for a second or so but I don't think so - so in the video I also change the chip with an equivalent NCP3063 and replace the output capacitor with another one (because the step down regulator pushed 10.7v into the 470uF 10v capacitor and it blew up on my desk)Video below:

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2014, 02:48:09 pm
content: I have taken a few of those apart. The 2A fuse is good for automotive use, remember the voltage rating is a maximum for applied voltage, not a requirement. It will still blow at just over 2A ( depending on temperature, time and current like any other fuse, 2A is a current that it will not blow at when at 25C in free air) and protect the unit from fire.I have repurposed quite a few as well, including one I use as a preregulator on my handy talkie charger as I was not going to order a 12V charger accessory at half the price of the radio. Works well to give 9V to the base charger which it wants to keep dissipation low in the charge control SMD chip. Others are just used as regulators for giving a 5V rail without needing a toasty heatsink, provided the equipment is happy with the somewhat noisy output from them. Easy enough to filter it though using a few LC sections cascaded onto the output, rather than a big capacitor. You really do want to replace the 1HL capacitors they come with on input and output with better ones, and use a much larger value, like 1000uF 25V, on the input side rather than the low value they typically put there. 47-100uF is common, and is really too low in value to provide proper decoupling on the input side. Output it is best to use 470uF 16V for most applications, and low ESR ones in both places.
XL4005 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: johansen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2014, 11:13:49 am
content: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5A-Adjustable-Power-CC-CV-Step-down-Charge-Module-LED-Driver-Voltmeter-Ammeter-/360761944080anyone found these things to be any good?I blew one up within 5 minutes of toying with it, I think I saw 7 amps on the display for a short time though (I was running it from 30 volts)the board has three leds. one for voltage in, the other two for voltage and current mode. current mode is blue iirc.the pots are 30 turn pots.The display is auto ranging, 0.00 to 99.9 volts, I didn't run it that high though. The brass standoffs are live, so you don't need to use the connectors on the panel board.Current is set up for an inline ground referenced nominal 50 mOhm shunt, which I actually measured to be 53mOhms on the main board, and the panel meter will read 0.00 to 9.99 amps.I don't know if it will auto range over to xx.x amps but 10 amps through 50mOhms is 5 watts anyways.The LED display isn't very readable, they are over driven and a single layer of silver esd bag material cuts the glare down fairly well and makes it readable.
Atten PPS3005S software download - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cece99
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 14, 2013, 07:41:23 am
content: Hi, I have installed a serial interface on my PSU, but i can't download the managing software. Somehone can link it?ByeCesare

author: Robgo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 12, 2014, 08:49:37 am
content: You can download it from its official website, here isthe link to PPS3005S software download.
Psion TekLogix Workabout pro 1. gen programming? wifi? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: makerimages
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2014, 05:08:52 pm
content: Whoa,I just got myself one of these:The thingy runs Windows CE .NET (yup! that old!) and has a module port into which scanners and such can attach to.The port looks like this.What I would now like to be able to do is program something for it. Use the port pins for interaction with outside peripherals.(Philips smart card IC). What development tools would I need for it? I'm guessing PSION has some framework or sth for it?Also, the thingy has boloody lot of connectivity setting, BT, wireless... If it indeed has inbuilt WiFi, how can I connect it to the interwebz?

author: marshallh
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 09, 2014, 10:55:36 pm
content: Upper conncetor is a Type II CF slot. Lower one is some generic board-to-board connector, spend some time trawling digikey and compare dimensions with a set of calipers.Troll ebay for psion devkits for these things, that's probably the only way you'll get the tools.

author: makerimages
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 02:19:51 pm
content: Im guessing this would be teh solution?http://community.psion.com/downloads/developer_sdkhdk/m/mobile_devices_sdk/735.aspx

author: makerimages
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 09:13:34 pm
content: I read up on programming tools, which IDE would you guys use for this? the microsoft eMbedded visual c++ one wont work properly on win7... anything else I could use?
Is my anti-static mat a scam? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 09, 2014, 11:48:27 am
content: So, the other day I bought a fairly cheap anti-static mat from a reputable computer retailer in NZ. I notice some things:The ground lead is conductive. It appears to be made from some kind of dissipative plastic.The ground lead does not make good contact with the button on the mat. I wadded some tin foil in there.The mat does not appear to be conductive.What is the point of a ground lead on a non-dissipative mat?

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 09, 2014, 11:52:50 am
content: The ground lead is supposed to be conductive.The dissipitive mat surface is so high in value that you likely can't measure it with any meter you have.It's almost certainly not a scam.

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 09, 2014, 12:15:58 pm
content: Thanks mate.

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2014, 12:32:05 pm
content: Can we power up a board for troubleshooting or testing, when it’s on an anti-static mat?

author: ales22
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2014, 01:04:26 pm
content: Yes, if the top layer is not conductive, only dissipative.
Non-switched voltage converter also does 50/60Hz? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2014, 07:51:33 pm
content: How likely is it that a non-switched mode 120/240V voltage converter (step down/up) would also convert the frequency from/to 50/60Hz?I'm looking at something like this bulky one:http://www.ebay.com/itm/160733087308The seller claims it converts frequency as well, but it seems doubtful.

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2014, 06:54:44 am
content: Quote from: lpc32 on March 06, 2014, 07:51:33 pmIt says "transformer" on the front,so that's what it is------it converts voltage,but not frequency.That said,in most cases,it doesn't matter,but if you are converting down from 230v at 50Hz,& whatever you are powering from this transformer has its owninternal60Hz transformer,it may possibly be a problem.Using 60Hz transformers at 50Hzsometimescauses overheating if the transformer design is marginal.The other way round doesn't matter,as a 50Hz transformer will be less lossy at the higher frequency.

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2014, 02:32:23 pm
content: That is just an auto transformer that will work on 60 or 50 hz no frequency conversion. I used to have one for the wife's wheel chair when we went to the US put it in the bin in the end as it was dangerous if not plugged into a correctly wired polarised outlet (had a shock a few times) and all the new chargers are universal voltage and frequency so no requirement to lug the weight.

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2014, 02:41:41 pm
content: That's what I suspected, though who knows, maybe the seller's right and there's some added circuitry.Can anyone suggest a switched-mode step down converter rated for 200W, with ground, that's similarly priced? I couldn't find such a thing.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2014, 01:28:55 am
content: Frequency conversion is a difficult thing. Whereas voltage can be changed with merely a resistor or transoformer, there is no simple circuit that can convert frequency. An electronic circuit has to do it through a side channel frequency, like high frequency switching or conversion to DC (usually both).There is one simple device which produces addition or subtraction of frequencies: a motor, specifically the wound-rotor type. If you spin a two pole motor at 10Hz (i.e., 600 RPM), and apply 50Hz (polyphase) to the stator, you get 60Hz on the rotor winding (sum of frequencies), or vice versa.Tim

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2014, 09:59:45 pm
content: What sort of AC form would you expect from cheap converters that do convert frequency as well?
Hakko New Product - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2014, 05:03:10 am
content: It seems as if they are about to launch their Inductive heating FX-100. I wonder the cost this will be launched at, and if around $150, might become a serious contender.http://n1a.goexposoftware.com/events/ipc2014/FORMfields/uploads/pressreleasescurprurl1391719855850672817.pdf

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2014, 05:38:02 am
content: Quote from: echen1024 on March 06, 2014, 05:03:10 amI'm guessing more than that. Though it might explain the recent frys sales on the fx888d. A potential repositioning on price.Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2014, 05:41:37 am
content: My guess is it will sit somewhere a bit under the metcal but more than the OKI or Page. The real question is how much will cartridges be and what sizes and thermal mass will they be.

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2014, 06:17:12 am
content: Quote from: calexanian on March 06, 2014, 05:41:37 amNo, the question will be can they be arsed to sell this in Europe, or will they again give a flying fart about customers in Europe?

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2014, 07:24:34 am
content: Quote from: Bored@Work on March 06, 2014, 06:17:12 amI just don't see there is an incentive or strong reason for Hakko to improve their current business model in Europe. Especially the tight regulation on customer's protection at Euro zone, that means the company will make less money + support head ache (=extra cost) compared to other continents.Their biggest chunk of sales is in Asia (East) and North America, if I'm not mistaken these two regions contributed > 70% for their total sales volume, heard this from our local & "official" Hakko representative when we had a chit-chat.Hence you see tons of Hakko's clone all over the place like in Ali Express, Alibaba and etc.C'mon B@W, I believe you're experienced enough in this kind of business to be aware of this matter.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2014, 03:09:16 pm
content: Induction does not imply Curie point, right?

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2014, 03:18:14 pm
content: Quote from: Bored@Work on March 06, 2014, 06:17:12 amDid not know they did not really have a euro market. Usually euro gets the cool stuff and we get shafted in the states! Especially when it comes to cars!

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2014, 04:38:04 pm
content: Quote from: zapta on March 06, 2014, 03:09:16 pmIn this case it is a Curie Point based station.QuoteYou'll find this in both the OP's link, andthis onefrom the Apex Expo (under More Information).
Faulty Yihua 937d+ solder station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: trisonic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 05:47:21 pm
content: HiI have an Yihua 937d+ solder station, its an hakko clone with a larger transformer and some minor update.It doesn't works, it doesn't warm up the ceramic element and it doesn't indicate the actual temperature from the termocoulpe.I have changed ALL the components on the controller board, but the problem still.Maybe the problem is in the wiring (in the handle) between the a1322 heating element and the control board.Can sombody suggest me something to repair it?thanks

author: trisonic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 07:49:44 pm
content: solved, it was a wrong wiring in the handle
Need help with Saike 852d hot air gun - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sLi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 11:29:34 am
content: Ok, problem is as follows...I bought soldering station direct from china, and was working great until one day, when i got a burn heater inside air gun. I've ordered a new one from supplier, but same thing again. As i set temperature on LCD to let's say 300°C, but for some reason it didn't regulate it (Air gun led was on all of the time) and heater was so hot that it burnt surrounding plastic, until it burnt out itself. OK, i thought it was problem with gun, so i ordered a new gun, that got blown for same reason.So this time i ordered a new mainboard, but same thing is happening, i have even tried to calibrate it with trimmer inside, but nothing is going on,it's overheating constantly. Weird thing is that when i disconnect connector that's from temp sensor inside air gun it shuts heater of immediatly... I have measured resistance on all 3 sensors of blown heaters and it's the same at room temperature (1.1ohm) and have checked that is changing when heated (~7.5ohm) so i don't know what else to try, i even tried soldering iron pot, as i've rad that they often get blown but same thing (soldering iron is working perfectly)could someone suggest what else could i try? i can order a new air gun from same supplier of mainboard, but am affraid i'll get blown heater again. maybe someone owns same station or similiar (898, etc.) so can measure resistance between red and yellow wire on 3pin connector comming from air gunOne more odd thing i have noticed is that when i'm measuring voltage on sensor pads when powered on with multimeter LED starts to flashI'm stuck with this for almost a year, so hope that you'll help me to solve it finallyboard is same as yihua 852d

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 01:20:51 pm
content: Not familiar with this particular unit but the triac could be shorted or the temperature feedback is wrong.

author: sLi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 02:24:09 pm
content: i guess something is wrong with temp feedback as when i disconnect connector where temp sensor is located, heater stops working, and LED turns offbut not shure what...

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 03:43:49 pm
content: Maybe you should add a variable pot in series with the heater wires and turn up the resistance to see if anything happens ?

author: sLi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 07:10:03 pm
content: managed to solve the problem...it seems that trouble was laying inside hot air gun board, i desoldered everything, cleaned and soldered back again....only thing left to do is to calibrate temperature
3D "manual printer" pen - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cybermaus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 08:13:45 am
content: Anyone seenthis one already3D printing flowing out of a hand-held pen.

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 08:30:25 am
content: Did you look at the date of that article?It's not exactly new technology.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 08:34:52 am
content: Very nice. Never heard of it before.

author: cybermaus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 10:38:45 am
content: A year old, indeed. Well, it was new to me, and I though interesting too.

author: BurtyB
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 12:50:45 pm
content: I have one from the Kickstarter campaign - I just wish it was as easy to use as it looks in the video.

author: lapm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 11:39:36 am
content: Docent look too difficult to make one if you are familiar with functions and cosntruction of 3d printers...

author: mngiggle
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 01:33:20 pm
content: Quote from: BurtyB on March 04, 2014, 12:50:45 pmYou aren't kidding. It takes some serious forethought and control to do anything that isn't, well, a doodle.

author: electronics man
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 08:58:32 pm
content: my friend has one, she likes it but i think its a bit of a gimmick, it has no practical uses but it could be usefull for artists.

author: MacAttak
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 14, 2014, 03:20:10 am
content: I have one as well. Not terribly useful. Annoying to operate actually.The extruder motor isn't very good - noisy and unreliable. The heater is overloaded too easily when extruding ABS. You end up with a stop-retract-wait-start pause every few seconds which makes it impossible to do long extrusion lengths. PLA works a bit better.I got one because I had the notion of using it to "patch" problems with larger prints from my real printers... like a welding device... but it doesn't work well for that. I also thought it might be good for free-handing concepts before spending time to draft them up in a CAD tool, but it kind of sucks for that too.
Tektronix 5110, 4 channel analog oscilloscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 09:19:13 am
content: I've been looking for a decent analog oscilloscope for some time now, and just recently came across a local ad of someone selling a Tektronix 5110 - and decided to take the chance. I ended up paying $115 (USD) for it, it's working and in good condition:A better picture of the same unit can be foundhttps://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15526481/picosc/tek-1-454x500.jpg.What do you guys think about it? Worth $115? I also know that the 5000-series has removable slots, so I guess it's easily upgradeable? Just want your comments on it, as this was more of a sporadic purchase.

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 09:23:12 am
content: Nice scope, the only downside is its very limited bandwidth IIRC 2MHz. Good for audio but not much else.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 01:20:08 pm
content: As shown I believe it is actually configured for 6 channels. With another 5A14N 4 channel vertical amplifier, it should support 8 channels.The 2 MHz bandwidth is a little slow for general purpose use.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 01:22:48 pm
content: Even though the scope is slow, a slow scope is better than no scope, and if you're a beginner, 2mhz is enough for a lot of the things you'll be looking at.

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 03:33:17 pm
content: Quote from: peter.mitchell on February 27, 2014, 01:22:48 pm+1Good first scope, I'd say.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 09:09:18 am
content: Quote from: Rigby on February 27, 2014, 03:33:17 pmplenty of channels to blow the ass out of if you do anything wrong, and a nice big clear crt.

author: DL8RI
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 09:29:01 am
content: Hi,I used to have a Tek-5000 (5441 or 5403/D41).Nice scopes but tend to have issues, especially with the switches. Lots of Tek-branded ICs inside.Here is a Page with a nice overview of the whole series:http://www.i9t.net/5000_scopes.htmlIn my opinion $115 is quite pricy for such a thing. Depending on the condition of course.There are quite some very nice Plugins. The Differential-Amplifiers with a range of 10µV per Division for example. I used to own to of these Amplifiers and got them for ~10€ each (working!). And that's the big advantage: The Plug-ins are dirt cheap.For the 5L4N-Analyzer there's an application-note from Tek for Audio stuff. A nice, classical Spectrum-Analyzer with tracking-generator, but I've had many, many Issues with this stupid thing. Never worked completely