hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Dynacord 5010B solid-state bass amp, lots of hiss in preamp - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: alex.veuthey
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 16, 2019, 08:10:46 am
content: Hello fellow repairers, first post here :-)It looks like this is an active forum, and I can't figure this out on my own, so here it goes!I have an old (mid-late 1970's it seems, the serial doesn't tell me anything) Dynacord 5010B, which is pretty nice, except for an annoying high-frequency hiss... Here's a bit of info (in German)http://www.el-me-se.de/old/pdf_files/5010B.pdfHere's what I know about this particular amp:- power amp section transistors were replaced in the 90's after being blown by an active bass in the "high" input...- from what I've looked on the rest of the circuit, no components were replacedAnd details about the issue:- there's a mid-high freq hiss with significant impact (it's much louder than the typical amp background noise/hum/badly-shielded-pickups thing, although it wouldn't be heard with continuous playing I think)- the hiss is present even without an instrument plugged in (either with no cable inserted, or with gain at 0, which completely cuts the input)- also present on the fuzz channel, if I remember correctly, but can't check it and its effect on noise right now, because I don't have a footswitch at home...- the gain control doesn't really affect it (it's slightly louder in the middle 90% of the control range, though)- the volume control cuts the noise at 0 and makes it really loud at maximum, which tells me it's coming from the preamp section- I haven't checked the signal path, but I'm assuming the EQ controls are in between the gain and volume control- regarding EQ: bass doesn't affect, mid makes the hiss more mid-y, treble makes it more treble-y, presence makes it more, this indicates that the noise is created before the EQ controlsMy main problems are:- can't find the schematics online, except for paid options on shady websites, which I don't trust. Has anyone paid & downloaded a good quality diagram from websites like manuals-in-pdf.com ? e.g.https://www.manuals-in-pdf.com/download-5010B-DYNACORD-p-514029.html- not really familiar with that kind of repair, never used an oscilloscope (though I can borrow one from a friend)- electronic shops in my region are pretty much guaranteed to refuse looking into that, due to the age and value of the amp (seems quite low), also don't want to pay for that and more interested in repairing it myself for experienceAre my assumptions correct?Could anyone point me in a more educated direction?Is there something I can check with a multimeter (or two)?Would replacing all the preamp transistors (there are only 6 I think) get rid of the problem, or could it come from other components? Then I'd need to find appropriate replacements, but that will come in time.Thanks for any help!
Dyson AM05 hot and cool fan heater pcb burned - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: fialax
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 09:47:22 pm
content: I just got one of these fan heaters to my hand and after closer look i found burned pcb seams to be for heater elements it has two triacs on. from top looks everything fine but from bottom the pcb is completely burned. Do anyone know about any site where i can get this part from? check the pictures below. thanks.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 09:58:32 pm
content: Those are two optocouplers, they unlikely to fail with triacs remaining functional. And I don't see a single part burned. Just a board covered with something dark, often nothing more than dust is needed to make the board this dirty. First clean the board and show if there are any parts which emitted the magic smoke if there was such in the first place.

author: soswow
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 27, 2019, 03:25:01 pm
content: fialax, have you found what's up with yours?Funny enough, I also have burned out PCB for Dyson AM05 fan. But this time it's another one AND I am sure there is something burned up:So, the question is the same - is there a place that google can't recommend me where I can try and buy a new/used/whatever one?
Dyson AM09 malfunction - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: terminus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2024, 12:21:47 pm
content: I'm trying to fix my neighbor's Dyson AM09 fan.The fan motor starts and stops after a few seconds.I checked the motor. All 3 windings are identical in resistance. The shaft rotates freely by hand. When starting, holding the motor in hand I feel a soft vibration, which disappears when the motor continues to spin inertia after switching off. The motor can't spin up without the fan blades, it just vibrates and spinning at low revs.The motor is BLDC, three phase with three hall sensors. The half-bridges are powered directly from rectified mains voltage. The signal from the sensors is getting to the controller board, the waveform is good - rectangular with a 120 degree offset. The waveforms at the output of all half-bridges looks more or less the same, as well as the inputs of the drivers.I disconnected the windings one at a time until I found one that does not significantly affect the motor behavior. I replaced the mosfets and the driver. The old mosfets were fine and after replacing nothing changed. I couldn't find a motor for replacement on sale.The board is multilayer. I tried to trace hall sensor’s signals. 2 phases come to C and D inputs of 74hc74. the third phase goes to the microcontroller through a resistor. Controller board looks healthy, 5v on controller is stable and I can't find what the problem is.Has anyone dealt with something similar? Any ideas what to try?Would it be a good idea to try powering the motor from mains AC with a start capacitor to check a smooth rotation?Thanks!
Dyson Battery Vacuum -> Milwaukee Battery Adapters - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: CaptainBucko
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2025, 12:41:51 pm
content: I might have missed the memo, but there have been plenty of "How to fix Dyson Vacuum Battery" threads on EEV, but I don't recall anyone pointing out the existence of cheap and easy to source of Dyson to <Insert Name Brand of Battery Tool Here> adapters. I picked up a couple of Milwaukee adapters (about $30 AUD ea) for my two dead battery Dysons and they are working well.My only observation is the newer higher current models of Dyson might need a high discharge battery. Happy days.

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2025, 01:59:13 pm
content: If I've heard about them then you probably did miss the memo. I'd like an adapter to fit an Aldi X-finity battery to a Dyson V6 or V7. The big name tool brands and even a local Big box store brand (Ozito) in Australia are readily available but Aldi not so much.I might have to try 3D printing because I found someone has already done this and published the files.I have a selection of Dyson vacuums people have discarded.

author: timeandfrequency
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2025, 02:44:37 pm
content: Most renowed powertools batteries alliances are currently :-Ampshare(Originator : BOSCH Pro)-CAS (Cordless Alliance System)(Originator : Metabo).Dyson vacs often use Molicell cells with dischage currents up to 40 amps.For demanding tools, to avoid destroying standard powertool batteries, put two in series and then use a powerful buck to step down to the required 12-24 VDC.

author: luke10050
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 30, 2025, 08:54:59 pm
content: Most power tool batteries are high discharge current cells. If you're really worried get a 2P pack as all the Dyson packs are 1P. Two cells in parallel will easily deliver the current.For reference the 12Ah Milwaukee has Samsung 40T cells in a 5S3P arrangement. You can safely pull over 100A from that pack.A 5Ah pack has two Samsung 25R's in parallel and can also supply 50A.The thing to watch out for is the Milwaukee packs rely on the tool to perform the LV cutout. They essentially use two pins on the battery, on one the tool "requests" the battery to provide power, and if the battery is good it brings the other pin high. In the event the pack voltage drops low or the temperature gets too high, the battery brings its signal low. As all the electronics for the dyson are more or less in the battery pack, you need an adapter that will respect that signal and cut power when that signal is not present. The battery itself has no way of preventing over discharge.
Dyson DC battery charger repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Specmaster
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2020, 02:53:32 pm
content: Does anyone have any idea where I can source a replacement DC barrell power plug to replace the broken one on the charger? It is 7.4mm on the outer dia and 5mm on the inner dia with a centre pin. This one is unusual in as much as its a 3 pole plug where the outer contact of the barrell carries the 0V, the inner wall contact carries 16.75V+ and the centre pin carries 24.35V +.All the DC barrell plugs I can find anywhere are all 2 pole, the outer barrell contact and the inner pin with the barrell inner wall being plastic, but the Dyson plug has a contact there?
Dyson DC35 Charger - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: najrao
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2024, 09:29:14 am
content: Quick enquiry: Can anyone put me wise on "What is with the 3 wire charger plug?" please. Supposed to feed 25.2and16.8V with common ground to the battery. Why?Is it possible they use atappedbattery to feed the 16V brush motor? So the bottom four cells deplete faster, and need extra make-up charge? I must be wrong, of course.Thanks.
Dyson Supersonic HD08 Board Repair / Part identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: karatektus
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 25, 2025, 10:08:41 pm
content: Hiho.i recently bought a Dyson supersonic with a "no heat" issue for cheap and was thinking that its probably the thermal fuse which would be an easy repair. Well its not. Repair should still be easy because it was immediately evident what the problem is once I took a look inside.I now need a little help identifying the part. It is labelled RT1 and googleing a little said that its probably a MOV. which really means nothing to me, especially not which part exactly. As far as I understand it, its for overvoltage protection? Either way its broken. The fuse to the left of it is fine though.Thanks in advance for any input

author: avrusb
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 26, 2025, 08:52:26 am
content: First check if RT1 is in series with the fuse or in parallel to L(ife) and N(eutral)?
Dyson SV03/05 Battery BMS Thermistor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: NeilP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2023, 06:32:47 am
content: Does anyone happen to know the value and type of thermistor NTC/PTC under the BMS of a Dyson SV03/05 style battery ?I replaced cells in a pack and in pushing old cells out and then removing the PCB, discovered the thermistor is bonded in. By then the thermistor was broken. Was not a worry as I have a few spare packs to play with.Was wondering if anyone had ever unsoldered one and measured it or replaced one ?Thanks

author: tinfever
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2023, 05:15:50 pm
content: In my firmware, I assumed it was a 10k thermistor with 3500k beta. The beta was mostly a guess since I don't think I actually tried to characterize it. If you look at the different beta values of thermistor, I think you'll find that in the range we care about, it only makes a few degrees difference, and since it is just for safety, even +/- 5 degrees is fine. I may have even reduced the overtemp threshold in the firmware to ensure the battery cell temp would never exceed the maximum, even with that beta uncertainty.Temperature curve info:https://github.com/tinfever/FU-Dyson-BMS/blob/main/firmware/thermistor.hI think there are two curves because there are different resistor values used in the different BMS board versions.

author: NeilP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2023, 06:47:30 pm
content: Thanks,I’ll try and repair these boards and see how it goesWas not able to measure originals,
Dyson SV15(V11) Nonrotating fault - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lern01
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2023, 08:17:27 am
content: Dyson SV15 vacuum cleaner trigger a "dong", no reaction, no turn. Now I'm trying to draw a schematic, which is a little difficult. It seems that such glitches are common. My guess is the protection mechanism tripped. Limited level, initiated this thread, hope to get everyone's help. Thank you very much!The U11 printing H89XG tripin chip in the picture, does anyone know what it is? The middle pin is grounded, one pin is connected to 3.3V, the middle pin to pin 1 and pin 3 have diode characteristics, pin 3 to pin 1 and pin 2 are not on, but pin 1 and pin 2 to pin 3 have on voltage drop.

author: lern01
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2023, 02:13:45 am
content: Hey, the master came out to help,thanks!

author: najrao
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2023, 03:04:20 pm
content: And what was the solution the master gave?

author: Rodin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 01, 2024, 06:00:09 am
content: The information I found is that the central shaft of the motor is faulty and cannot be repaired at present.If you disassemble the motor,you should be able to find that the central shaft of the motor is loose.
Dyson v10 Battery Management System - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: badisan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 04, 2022, 11:23:38 am
content: Hello,Has anyone had experience with the battery lock on the V10,it has an atmel controller on the board ATSAMD 20.Best regardsDejan

author: Black Phoenix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2022, 11:37:32 am
content: There is a topic regarding a custom firmware for older systems -https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/dyson-v7-trigger-cordless-vacuum-teardown-of-battery-pack/Don't know if there is any discussion or advancement regarding the new systems.

author: zhoukevin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 11, 2022, 02:07:51 pm
content: It can be through the programmer debugging function to send the I2C command to the 76930, which should be unlocked!

author: rulof
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2023, 12:13:11 pm
content: also faced with such a fee.I tried to read the firmware, but there is a protection against reading.maybe there is an option to count only eeprom?atasamd20e15 can anyone have worked with similar ones?

author: rulof
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2023, 07:40:03 am
content: I have two dyson v10- sv17 batteries.one is fully functional,the other is blocked.the atasamd20e15 processor is installed.there is a programmer j link v9.when connected, he wants to erase the firmware.tell me is it possible to read and flash only eeprom?by analogy with dyson v7-v8?

author: duzycinek
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2023, 09:03:08 pm
content: Quote from: zhoukevin on November 11, 2022, 02:07:51 pmHey. After that it will work again?

author: davidmpye
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2023, 09:29:07 pm
content: Alas that doesn't work, because the issue is that the MCU stores the error internally in its' flash (presumably in the EEPROM emulation that the chip supports), so won't ever set the pack up to work again.I've got some replacement firmware which DOES work, but is probably best for experimenters for now. That said, if you have a dead pack and fancy a challenge, come have a go :-)It will be possible to program/unlock the pack using a raspberry Pi to program it but for now, you'll need an SWD / CMSIS-DAP compliant programmer that Microchip Studio supports.New thread on eevblog for it:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/replacement-firmware-for-dyson-v10-batteries/David

author: lampik
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 03, 2025, 12:04:02 pm
content: Hi David, im Matt, im trying to do some flash on sv28 battery from dyson v11 i used Your img to flash via GPIO and something has worked now battery flashes only right led but started to flash and nothing more (i used for that raspberry p4) can You help ?
Dyson V10 battery resistor value - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Mike vvg
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 10, 2023, 02:36:26 am
content: Any help on this resistor value much appreciatedBattery LED was extremely dim when button depressed. Upon inspection saw the resistor cracked.If I put my finger across it the LEDs light up as usual when switch depressed.Thank you for reading my post
Dyson V10 Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: C-47
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2023, 10:54:25 am
content: I was given a Dyson V10 stick vacuum cleaner, it had a broken switch trigger which has been repaired, bit of a bush fix but it works, but the real problem seems to be the motor circuit board which per photo has what appears to be, at least I think is a ruptured capacitor C-45 and also C-35, unfortunately there is no info on these items re voltage / capacity, does anyone have such info or a schematic. Any leads appreciated. Thanks, Alan.
Dyson V6 need help identifying (most likely a Mosfet) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: alpher
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2022, 03:00:41 am
content: Another Dyson repair on the forumsMine developed a slightly different fault than all popular battery balancing act of late.The powerbrush died sometime ago, and now finally I got myself to do some investigating.Here are some pics that I hope show quite clearly what happenedThe magic smoke trail is clearly visible on chip Q5 (most likely mosfet of some sort), unfortunately it also obliterated the second half of the markings, I can read FD.. then a molten crater.Can someone help me identify this chip?Much appreciated.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2022, 03:24:22 am
content: FDFS6N548, Fairchild, Integrated N-Ch PowerTrench MOSFET and Schottky Diode, 30V, 7A, 23mΩ, SO-8:https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/FDFS6N548-D.PDFhttp://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/fairchildsemiconductor/FDFS6N548.pdfOther references ...https://vlab.su/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=63597&view=previoushttps://festima.ru/docs/43613158/moscow/motor-dyson-dc62-ne-rabotaet-na-zapchasti

author: massmog
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2024, 07:58:13 pm
content: Thank you so much, guys! This was exactly the info I was looking forI have the some problem with my V62.
Dyson vacuum motor drive - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: najrao
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2023, 02:27:22 pm
content: Much has been done in this forum to explain the frightful battery bms in Dyson vacs.I am trying to get the motor to run on a bench supply. Proving to be very tricky, and I have failed so far.What is with the two-pin extra connection between battery and motor? At the motor end, both feed into small caps, which measure 2.7uF in situ. Beyond that, it gets complicated to trace the feed. I would have thunk that Dyson somehow used the one power mosfet on the battery board itself as a main motor switch.In the event, simply feeding 24V to the motor plug causes a draw of some 40mA, after the dc bus has charged. Even the display at the back of the motor does not light up (backlight seems to glow, seen in the dark).I believe my motor is from a V11, can't be sure.What more should I do get this going, or is it a stupid endeavor?Surely, others on this forum would have attempted something like this?

author: davidmpye
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2023, 09:24:34 pm
content: Hi,I can give you some information, but probably not what you want to hear.The 2 pin connection is a 115200 baud serial link between the battery and the motor unit.Red wire is battery->motorBlack wire is motor->batteryThis appears to serve 2 purposes as far as I can see:'proof' to the motor unit that the battery is genuinereports state of charge back to the motor, so on the V11 you can see predicted runtime.I'm about to create a separate thread asking for any protocol gurus to see if they can help me figure out the serial traffic. But in short - without the data flowing, the motor won't power up.David

author: najrao
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2023, 08:44:17 am
content: Thank you, davidmpye. I had given up all hope of getting response.Indeed, the battery puts out a signal on the red wire on pressing the trigger. Sighted on a scope. This lasts some milliseconds, and does not repeat till the next trigger press.Unfortunately, I have only a red-blinking battery*, and this does not turn on the battery power mosfet at all. So there can be no response from the motor.The bldc driver is not enabled unless there is a successful handshake, evidently. Bench supply does nothing.My only hope is locating a node which enables/disables the inverter function.I look forward (with bated breath) to your new thread, even as my software education was sadly neglected -- from 50 years ago.najrao.*a good battery costs much more than what I paid for the three V7-11 motors.
E.G.O.  or EGO switches and  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Cicada
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2022, 03:02:45 pm
content: HiI am fixing an electrical kitchen stove for the first time.I notice that almost everything from the cam selector switcheshttps://www.buyspares.com/oven-function-selector-switch-ego-4205000019/product.pl?pid=1234023to the thermostats used in ovens refers to the term/name? E.G.O and EGO in their datasheets or sales material.What does it mean? Is it a brand i.e. this onehttps://www.egoproducts.com/en/company/about-egoOr is it a type or group of components that are collectively referred to as EGO?Maybe a standard?ThanksCicada

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2022, 04:11:32 pm
content: How are you confused? You found the company website, and clicking around definitely shows they make controls for appliances.(What is clear, by their lack of product listings and datasheets, is that they want to deal with appliance manufacturers directly.)
E-mu 1616m MicroDock repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: AndreyS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2018, 07:26:18 am
content: Hi. I have two MicroDocks from E-mu: one is working, another is not. It turns on, but is not recognized by the PCIe card. Normally, after turning on LEDs light on, MicroDock gets recognized by PCIe card and its LEDs turn off. Since MicroDock doesn't get recognized, LEDs stay on.I checked voltages, and they are same as on the working MicroDock.Has anybody faced this problem? How to fix it?

author: Smith
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2018, 09:31:33 pm
content: Could it be a bad EEPROM? I had a similar issue with a Audiophonics U-Sabre mini USB DAC I bought a few months ago (I new it was bad). Seller told it would sometimes be found by the PC, but other times it would not. When I got it, it would never be found on any of my machines. I used the Thesycon USB descriptor tool (free on the interweb) and saw one of the endpoints was screwed because its length was 0xFF (instead of 0x09, which I found out afterwards). I knew from a similar device the descriptor should have the length 0x09. Turned out the USB controller (the SA9023 in my case) had 2 similar EEPROMS, for unknown reason. De-soldered both and read them in my TL866. One had the description length of 0x09, the other had 0xFF. The rest of the data was exactly the same, so with the prior knowledge I was quite sure this was the issue. I flashed the bad one with data from the good one, put them back, and since then everything is working like a charm.

author: AndreyS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2019, 05:09:41 pm
content: I couldn't find an EEPROM on these boards. The back sides of the boards lacks any ICs.It has two XILINX units: xc9536xl (CPLD) and xc3s50 (FPGA). Could it be that the firmware is embedded into those units?

author: AndreyS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2019, 05:17:05 pm
content: These are photos of boards

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2019, 09:36:03 pm
content: unless the fpga is corruptedhave a programmer to read on the good one and re-write it if its possible, the xc9536 can be read too if its not protected ??

author: AndreyS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2019, 11:28:09 am
content: I don't know.Are you saying that that FPGA can be read?

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2019, 02:32:49 pm
content: I think the firmware reside in/on the pci card, and thru the rj45 look a like network plug, it communicate with the external enclosureMaybe check for a defective plug or contacts ??Unless has you wrote : a firmware something or an ID check could be in the fpga ??We used xc9536 in our pc boards, now they are obsolete EOL and there are many copycats of this chip around, we had many problems.For the fpga, you have 2 unused headers on the board, maybe one of them go thru the programming pins of the fpga ?? you have some digging to do.
E.S.I 2150 Video Bridge power supply question. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2023, 02:44:33 pm
content: Hi, Does anyone familiar with the E.S.I 2150/2160 series Video Bridge know if I can use a 2A 600 volt bridge rectifier on the power supply board in the place of the 1.5A 800 volt bridge called for on the parts list? The mains fuse is 2 amp slo blo, but the bridge is rated for 1.5 amps and shorted out. Thanks in advance for any advice!

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2023, 04:10:56 pm
content: I don't know this equipment. Is the bridge rectifier on the input AC mains of a SMPS rated for 90-250 Volts input? If yes and it will only be connected to 110 Volt AC mains then yes a 600 Volt bridge rectifier will be OK.But before fitting it you should be seeking the answer to the question of why is the existing one shot?

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2023, 04:45:41 pm
content: There were a couple of parts that had failed, a shorted horz. output transistor and a stud diode was open too. I have replaced both. The power supply is not a SMPS, it's the conventional type with two large size electro caps that are rated at 200v.

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2023, 02:43:25 pm
content: There's a 230V setting so it needs more than 600VAC.But secondary faults shouldn't cook the rectifier.Maybe it was just too old.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2023, 11:03:30 am
content: Quote from: m k on July 05, 2023, 02:43:25 pmThe schematic for the relevant part of the power input is at the top of page 246 of the pdf which can be downloaded athttps://www.manualslib.com/download/2086388/Esi-Videobridge-2150.html.The 110/230 Volt switch has no impact on what is applied to the bridge rectifier. As I wrote above, if used only on 110 Volt input (the OP is in Canada) a 600 Volt bridge will be OK. Fitting an 800 Volt bridge would be preferable but if that is not available a label should be applied stating that the unit should not be used on 230 Volt mains.

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2023, 05:14:20 pm
content: I have ordered some 2 amp 1000V, type 2W10 bridge rectifiers. I should be getting them soon and will get back to this post with the results. Thanks to those who have taken the time to give advice so far.
E3604A repair or calibration needed? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lasvegas
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 06:48:59 am
content: I have some E3604A.When I set the voltage using the limit button say to 6V. then I enable the output and it sort of goes to 5.998V on the display, might drift down to 5.997VFluke says that is what the output actually is 5.997V.Is this damaged, or calibraiton issue?I tried a simple calibration using my meter and I don't think things really changed at all. (That said I didn't use the current sense 0.1ohm as recommended in the service manual, use the I of the meter). That said if you are out at all it won't accept your calibration either so was probably not bad meter measurements.Anyone own this and can confirm this behaviour is due to calibration or due to some other issue?

author: garrettm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 07:57:42 am
content: I can't find the datasheet to the model E3604A you've stated, but I did find a datasheet for the E3634A.https://www.matsolutions.com/Portals/0/Product%20documents/Agilent%20Technologies/E3634A/E3634A%20Data%20Sheet.pdfIt looks like the programming resolution is 3 mV and the programming accuracy is stated as 0.05% + 10 mV. So I don't really see a problem with your unit. It's within specification.You can't assume that it will be "bang-on" just because the display shows you have mV resolution.Read the data sheet and compare your programmed output and display's readback with the accuracy specifications. If you are within tolerance you are good to go. This is literally what they do at a cal lab. Only if you pay more money will they actually perform an adjustment, and even then, only if it's out of tolerance.
HP/Agilent E3631A cal fail - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: fastsailing
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 11, 2016, 12:28:16 am
content: I've got an HP-era E3631A that is by all appearances in physically perfect condition and when I first got it was working perfectly fine.After a couple days of use, I left it powered off and unplugged for a couple weeks I was away... returning back and powering it up, something is now awry. It is still outputting correctly, but the front-panel output-monitor display reads bizarre (out-of-range) values: eg, on the 6v range, it reads 8.3641v or similar (and displayed current is similarly out of range), no matter what the programmed voltage/current is. However, it correctly outputs the programmed voltage/current I enter and correctly regulates CV/CC into a load, and the display behaves correctly when setting those programmed values. But when it flips back to display the actual voltage/current, they are out of range and don't bear any relation to the actual or set-limit values. Like the 6v channel, the +25v/-25v channels display in the range of +41v/-41v.Full self-test is clean, no errors. I can enter calibration mode without problem. I calibrated the 6v-channel voltages (cal 1, cal 2), reasonable cal values, and after that the 6v output voltage now displays correctly. But when I try to calibrate 6v-channel current, or either voltage or current for the +/-25v channels, although the cal values seem reasonable, "Cal Fail" always displays. There doesn't seem to be any value I can enter for those cals (including accepting the default values) that is accepted. And they still display out-of-range values.The reporting of "Cal Fail" is well-documented in the User and Service manuals, but I cannot find anywhere a statement on what those mean or what to do about them.Probing around inside, all voltage rails seem good, no obvious signs of damage.Anyone have a theory on where to go with this???Thanks in advance!Dan

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2016, 04:08:07 am
content: Sounds like a problem with the read back circuitry. It's essentially an HP multimeter. Could be the ADC converter or op amps and/or capacitors/resistors associated with the ADC. I haven't worked on a 3631, but many of these HP supplies can have similar looking faults with very different failed components.Since the power rails are OK, I'd check the components from the outputs toward the ADC. Also, since all channels were affected, start where it's common to all three channels.Edit: Fixed D/A to ADC. Must've had my brain on backwards.

author: eb3frn
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2022, 06:39:27 pm
content: Hi,you have located the fault? I've a similar problem. When I try to calibrate the current, it returns "CAL FAIL"Thanks73! Ibaneb3frn

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2022, 09:00:15 pm
content: comparator chip or resistors in the +/- 10 volt section. they fail commonly.
E3631A output/limit issues - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: dorkshoei
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2021, 04:52:19 pm
content: I just picked up a E3631a. I read this repair (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/agilent-e3631a-problems-i-just-keep-getting-lucky-not/msg3610050) but my situation seems different.At power on: +6V reads 0.201V 0.036A CVI can set a limit voltage, say 4V. I can set a limit current.If I connect a voltmeter without adjusting the output voltage, the voltmeter displays the limit voltage (4V).If I reduce the output level (not in limit mode) the display does not change, still shows 0.201V but the connected voltmeter shows the lowering value.If I increase the output level (not in limit mode) the display does not change, still shows 0.201V but the connected voltmeter shows the increasing value.In addition, I can adjust the output so it exceeds the previously set limit value. The display still shows 0.201V but the connected voltmeter displays the increased voltage (above limit) AND if I switch back to limit mode, the limit value is now HIGHER than what I previously set and it matches the voltmeter.Anyone have any suggestions on where to start debugging?

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2021, 09:10:02 am
content: Start debugging always with ALL power supply rails.Look for correct voltage and low ripple.

author: dorkshoei
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2021, 09:50:03 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on September 03, 2021, 09:10:02 amAll the power supply rails are in-spec. Schematic is on page127 of the service guide.As I said. The issue occurs on all 3 outputs.The value on the display is not the value output, rather the limit value is what is being output (to an attached voltmeter).Nothing changes on the display (in normal mode) when the output knob is being turned until (what should be the displayed) the output exceeds the set voltage limit value, at which point the display suddenly shows this value (>limit), the attached voltmeter shows this value (> limit) and if you switch to the limit display, the limit has now increased past it's previous set value.I suspect whatever part of the circuit is responsible for this output vs limit comparison is faulty.
E3633A Fuse Holder and Input Assembly - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Tony_G
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2025, 12:03:00 am
content: Hey All,I dumpster dove an E3633A and the only thing wrong with it is that the fuse holder is broken, or the input assembly is broken.What happens is the holder doesn't lock into place - There appears to be a catch of some sort missing but I was hoping that someone might have one of these and could grab a photo of the holder and assembly for me.Here is what I'm looking at:Any images appreciated,Thanks,TonyG

author: Tony_G
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2025, 01:01:18 am
content: If anyone comes back to this thread, here is what the clip looks like.I think I can just print something that I can glue to my fuse holder and if it breaks off I can just print another one...TonyG

author: benj38
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2025, 07:57:40 am
content: I suggest you print something you can attach to the holder using 2 tiny screws, not glue. In this application I am afraid glue may not be strong enough.

author: Tony_G
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2025, 05:23:05 pm
content: Thanks - I'm not sure there is enough space to try that but I'll think about it - Maybe a step style joint (side to side) and then a small hole for a wire to assist the strength?Anyway, thanks again for thing to think about.TonyG

author: Tony_G
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2025, 05:08:54 pm
content: Just coming back to this because I had the time this morning to actually work on this.I ended up creating a small piece that replicates the clip action and just holds against the broken clip end. I've uploaded the Fusion 360 model if you want to edit and a STEP if you just want to print.TonyG
e3642a power supply problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ida
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 08, 2021, 12:51:36 pm
content: Use 34411a to detect the 5v power supply output by e3642a, and find that the waveform is a bit jittery, and there is a little regularity (about once in 70 seconds), and the jitter amplitude is between 600uV.Is the e3642a power supply faulty?

author: ESTechnical
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2021, 01:00:41 pm
content: Can you make a current draw measurement and see if these are correlated?

author: ida
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 08, 2021, 02:57:01 pm
content: Measure the current, 5V R1K 5MA. If it is a power failure, which part may be caused by it?
E3646A repair Channel 1 works only after using Channel 2 to start it. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tchiwam
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2021, 04:30:56 am
content: This is interestingPower up the E3646AChannel 1 unreg message on screen and 0V outputChannel 2 works as intendedConnect Channel 1 and Channel 2 in parallelUnplug Channel 1 and Channel 2Channel 1 works as normal for a while, like 5 to 10 minutesChannel 2 works as normalRepeat from the Parallel connectionCan even power cycle to do a Calibration...The driver for Q503 seems to have all theirs bits in order +12V1 and -12V1My next step is to investigate the circuit driving Q109I need a rest, I'll continue this tomorrow, if anyone of you have an idea, let me know... I am looking into Electrolitic caps used as a delay or something...
e4402b Spectrum Analyzer doing funny things when the 5dB attenuator switched in. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jwrodgers
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 01, 2023, 06:51:34 pm
content: Hi, I recently repaired a LO Unlock error on a E4402, pictured below, by replacing the div4 chip in the LO section. It now will go through the Align Now, All Alignment process. I noticed that I was getting a good reading with the Attenuation set at -10 dB, the setting after a PRESET. But as I changed through the attenuation levels, anything with the 5 dB attenuator switched in was giving a funny reading. Screen shots are below.Anyone got any idea what could be causing this. I believe there is a mechanical solenoid attenuator block, with I presume a 5, 10, 20 and 40 dB attenuators in them. I can hear them switch between attenuator settings.I used a 2 GHz ref signal at -20 dBm from a signal generator for all the tests. Any signal shown with an attenuation ending in 0, e.g. 10, 20, 30, 40 etc show a power level in the signal of approx -21 dBm, (I am using a rubbish RG58 coax at 2 GHz, so a few dB loss is expected.) When the attenuation ends in a 5, e.g. 5, 15, 25, 35, 45 dB, the indicated power level is all over the place!Is this a typical fault that could be in the attenuator block? Maybe there is another cause? Could I repair it by removing, disassembly and perhaps cleaning or adjusting the attenuation block? Maybe a new attenuation block is the only way to go?Thanks for any ideas/comments in advance.

author: jwrodgers
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 01, 2023, 06:52:36 pm
content: And some more screen shots....

author: edp
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 08:07:10 am
content: Hi jwrodgers,I haven't disassembled my unit that far so am not sure what the attenuator looks like, but as far as I can see from the CLIP it is discrete components - it will be enclosed in the rf deck.Suspect the relay k5 or one of the nearby associated passives.See snippets of interest.ed

author: edp
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 08:18:28 pm
content: oh sorry my mistake - ignore previous post - that is from the 1.5GHz rf board, 3GHz+ does indeed have separate physical attenuator unit.
E4437B option UN8 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mbielman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2023, 02:56:05 pm
content: Help! I'm restoring an Agilent ESG-DP (E4437B with UND and UN8 options) and most is working but option UN8 not working. I suspect problems with the Baseband Generator board. Board info reports the required hardware as "DETECTED" rather than "INSTALLED":"DUAL ARB BOARD,E4400-60187,2012500207,A0203,INSTALLED"BASE BAND FUZZY,E4400-60070,3004500081,A0120,DETECTED"FLEX DG,E4400-60154,0004506698,A0100,DETECTED"MG OUTPUT BD,E4423-60030,1005204950,A0100,INSTALLED"MG SAMPLER BD,E4423-60020,1004000801,A0100,INSTALLED"MG SYNTH BD,E4423-60019,1983101738,A0100,INSTALLED"MG REFERENCE BD,E4423-60018,1004202635,A0100,INSTALLED"MG YIG DRIVER BD,E4423-60024,1004203888,A0100,INSTALLED"MOTHER BOARD,E4423-60035,1004607577,B0100,INSTALLED"When I try to enable Option UN8, it throws the following errors:+617,"Configuration Error;Installed option board not supported. "+617,"Configuration Error;Installed option board not supported. "+617,"Configuration Error;Illegal combination of installed option boards."-330,"Self-test failed;EEPROM header checksum error DATA GEN II"I suspect that last error about the EEPROM is the real problem.Anyway to restore the EEPROM? I'd rather NOT buy yet another replacement board!Mark

author: mbielman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2023, 02:28:19 pm
content: Apparently I've stumped the "experts" on this one.

author: ingowien
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2023, 01:25:43 pm
content: Did you have any progress on this issue?I just recognized that my E4432B with just H99, UN8, UN9 and 200 lists UN7 and UND in the hardware options though they are not installed and not in the installed options list.If I try to activate them I get the same "-330,Self-test failed;EEPROM header checksum error."So maybe this error is raised even if there is no EEPROM or no communication with it at all.

author: mbielman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2023, 02:44:09 pm
content: I ended up getting another data generator board (E4400-60154). The unit works great now.There are some status LEDs on the board and I compared these on the good/bad boards and saw no difference.Also tried everything I could think of via HP-IB commands but again, no differences. Board detected and such.I still have the bad board but have little interest in working on it. Maybe some day.
E4438C ESg Vector Signal Generator Repair FRAC N Module - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Uselesss
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 26, 2020, 01:45:05 am
content: Hi guys,I was able to loot an Aligent E4438C ESG generator from the scrap container.At least the Fractional N module of this one is defective and somebody made it rather worse during the repair.Up to 250 MHZ the generator delivers a much too low output power, which is independent of the set power, and above 250 MHZ it delivers no signal at all.An IC U310 shortly before the output of the Frac N module was replaced by a dual gate MOSFET.As you can see on the photos.The self-test shows this:Can anyone tell me what a U310 component is? Maybe this could solve the problem and if not I can still learn something.Do you know a simple trick to build an extension cable for the digital pins so I can measure in the open circuit?For measuring I have an oscilloscope and a spectrum analyzer.Many thanks in advanceP.S. sorry for not using the tumpnails for the pictures but some how the upload function was not workig
Agilent E4438C power supply strange smell, R245 and D52 burnt - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: testpoint1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2023, 05:57:09 am
content: I feel the strange smell, but still can working, tear down it, burnt R245 and D52, can someone help me for the value of R245 ?

author: enut11
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2023, 12:58:18 am
content: Can you work it out from the pictures in this eBay listing?https://www.ebay.com/itm/265999702744?hash=item3deed15ad8:g:VeIAAOSwj1VjefNo&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0K9m8jUFB5kwDMd47036sXufQB3a4jeDrVfVwsyKfG0vgKX3SffjWMnsFlremj%2FUmGM7qEg9iGJ6LA%2FD6Tg24QSS2tZ8Cl1eqUU0sY8zY7QdeO6PhQjN4JD03VVFg6R2WO83LvjzWQ8Qyn7rIdshhfVDbqLS6yro%2Baf2pTmT7Z%2BiWdTJCxJegN2hhYbux8CaM%2BLssyfMRfL7al4BkEgRnM5D59IANGt15ScZo7JicrFt%2BtB%2Bh%2FIdd7CILKd2p3DPx8gDoO4DNX8P0LR8gZlIY4Y%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR77Wku3_Yg

author: testpoint1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2023, 04:06:34 am
content: no, the resistor hide by a diode, and has glue on the top.Quote from: enut11 on November 24, 2023, 12:58:18 am

author: enut11
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2023, 06:22:54 am
content: Ask the seller if he has a dud one that he is willing to pull the glue off...

author: testpoint1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2023, 03:05:13 am
content: got the value from a seller, 470 OHM
E5062A is reading as E5061A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: CrazyTiger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2025, 12:42:52 am
content: My E5062A died on me, a SOIC8 Mosfet died on the motherboard causing the instrument cannot boot. Replacing the mosfet and all capacitors, the instrument able to turn on normally. It did pop an error "Conflict with PCI slot 2, for the first time", which I solved by reseating the card (A21).Now the equipment detects as E5061A and my frequency is limited to 1.5GHz. The serial number reads "000000". From what I see the only way I can restore this writing back the serial number back to the A21 PCI DSP Card, this requires the adjustment software. Anyone have this software?
E5810B bricked - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: JiriB
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2021, 09:12:54 am
content: Hi.I bought the used E5810B. Boot ended on "Initializing ..."After playing in "U-Boot" I overwritten the U-Boot section in NVRAM (run up_uboot). My stupidityTo fix U-Boot using x-modem I do not have the original u-boot.bin file.I can't get u-boot.bin from firmware file E5810_B_LATEST_FIRMWARE.HEX.Don't someone help me?Does anyone have experience with bricked E5810B?Does anyone have a dump of nvram (there is no JTAG connector on PCB)?Thank you.

author: JiriB
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2021, 02:22:02 pm
content: When no one helped, I helped myselfI found fw e5810_B_latest_firmware.hex (ADVANTEST_B.01.07_REV1 02/05/16)gunzip from offset 0x4A50 --> e5810_B_latest_firmware.binfrom e5810_B_latest_firmware.bin extracted MLO.hex (MYREKA_TORNADO_MLO_UPDATB.01.05)from e5810_B_latest_firmware.bin extracted u-boot.hex (MYREKA_TORNADO_UB_UPDATEB.01.05)MLO.hex --> MLO_XMODEM.bin (dd if=MLO.hex skip=579 count=68240 bs=1 of=MLO_XMODEM.bin)u-boot.hex --> u-boot_YMODEM.bin (dd if=u-boot.hex skip=123 count=264696 bs=1 of=u-boot_YMODEM.bin)TeraTerm from PC sent MLO_XMODEM.bin after power upTeraTerm from PC sent u-boot_YMODEM.bin (Myreka Tornado Init CCCC...)E5810B is a bit functional, web access worksupdate firmware via ftp (FileZilla server)E5810B is like a new one. Perhaps even better.