hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
IP rating of panel-mount switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: paul8f
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2021, 06:32:46 pm
content: Hi everyone,just bought this switch from Farnell: #2546940Their website states it's ingress protection isIP67,IP69K.However, on inspecting the switch, there is no IP marking. Same goes for the plastic bag it came in. Is this normal?Thanks!

author: geggi1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2021, 08:50:28 pm
content: Check at the manufacturer site.

author: paul8f
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2021, 09:26:33 pm
content: Quote from: geggi1 on March 31, 2021, 08:50:28 pmGood thinking.Yeah, the specs match the Farnell listing. And the part number matches the plastic bag it came in.Loads of room to stamp the IP rating on the switch, so not sure why they didn't just do it (considering the IP rating made the switch so much more expensive.)I don't know too much about IP ratings. Why does this switch have two? (IP69K and IP67).

author: TheMG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2021, 01:37:43 am
content: This page describes it fairly well:https://sickusablog.com/ip-ratings-mean-industrial-sensing/Scroll down to the heading "Are “Higher” IP Ratings Better?"

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2021, 08:47:45 pm
content: I could be completely wrong about this but the rating only applies to the device if it properly mounted in a similarly rated panel.If you look at a NEMA rated switch, the user facing side is pretty rugged and sealed up. but the electrical side is not sealed at all. The contact blocks really have little ability to withstand water ingress. I would imagine that the IP ratings are similar for industrial pushbuttons. The user side and the electrical side literally live in two different worlds.
IP68 Waterproof case/ LCD screen (touchscreen but button preferred) withESP32 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sylvanoMTL
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2025, 03:17:12 pm
content: Does anyone has a product to recommend to start developing an application that requires IP68 protection.I am looking for something already built, with capability to add mother board in it and additional components. Or an all in one solution that is BLE, Wifi Enabled with GPS, battery powered and can be programmed, using Arduino IDE

author: DeepLink
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2025, 08:26:18 am
content: Looking for something similarFound the Vakaros Atlas 2 / Sailmon Max, but these are of cause finished products, not building blocksBut something like this would be nice
Ipad 4 internal flex cable extension - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ansic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 12, 2020, 09:47:16 am
content: In our business van an Ipad 4 is fitted in to the dash to provide maps navigation and music playback. I would like the rear camera to be extended 10cm upwards to provide a view over the road, for a dash cam application (RoadAR).Inside the Ipad 4, the rear camera is connected with a short flex cable to the motherboard. I want this flex cable longer!I have not yet pulled the Ipad apart and have only seen the connector type on the camera module from Ifixit instructions. What the connector looks like on the motherboard is a mystery. I can extrapolate that the connector is 32-pins with 3 additional pins och each side which function could possibly be grounding. The pin pitch would be 0.4mm, how difficult would it be to hand solder jumper wires?Overseas there are "test cables" or "extension cable" for various smartphone cameras, I'm guessing they're a male-to-male to be plugged in to some kind of test board which performs tests. For my purpose of making the camera flex cable longer I would need a male-to-female, correct?Does anyone have knowledge about these proprietary connectors, like what they're called?Ipad 3 & 4 camera connector and body:Test cable for Iphone 5, 6 & 7 cameraIphone 5 camera (same as Ipad 4 connector?)

author: ale500
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2020, 10:54:37 am
content: How about a series of mirrors that form a periscope ?https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PeriscopeI know is a low tech solution.... but it doesn't require you to open the ipad

author: ansic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 12, 2020, 11:49:31 am
content: Funny that you mentioned that, great minds think alike. I have done that by gluing a L-angle to the windshield with a mirror on to it. And another mirror at angle on windscreen sill/ledge. Negatives effect are that the mirrors degrade the video quality and the windscreen mirror obscures vision. Software to recognize speed limit signs fails very often due to the lack of clarity in the video.
IPC Courtyard Standards for Odd Components (Connectors) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: electosleepy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2016, 02:21:41 am
content: Hi,How do I determine what would be the nominal courtyard dimensions for a connector? Is there a rule of thumb ie, 1mm excess around the component?

author: D3f1ant
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2016, 11:25:00 pm
content: Depends on the connector and dimension tolerances shown on its datasheet. Generally make courtyard slightly larger than the worse case dimensions.

author: Christe4nM
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 17, 2016, 11:17:03 am
content: IIRC there is indeed such a standard like x mm excess from the component in IPC 7351 (latest is the 7351C released early 2016)The actual 'x' depends on whether you need L(east) N(onminal) or M(ost) sized footprints.IIRC you might also choose whether you only want to put the component's physical size and copper pads inside the courtyard, or the silkscreen too.I do the latter, with 0.25 mm excess.Courtyard doesn't need to be a box, it can follow the contours of a non box shaped footprint.

author: electosleepy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 02:52:29 am
content: Thanks for the advice, I would like to know where should I mark the origin of a connector such as a PMOD? Should it be in the center of the mechanical body or should it be in the center of the courtyard or should it be in the center of the pins as shown in the attached picture? What is the best practice for the assembler?http://sullinscorp.com/drawings/101_P(N)PxCxx2LJBN-RC,_10494-H.pdf

author: Christe4nM
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 09:08:57 am
content: Quote from: electosleepy on August 18, 2016, 02:52:29 am"The land pattern origin is typically located at the center of gravity of thecomponent, but sometimes this is difficult to calculate with irregularshaped components, so Pin 1 is used in these cases. Also Pin 1 in mostthrough-hole connectors."From "what's new in IPC 7351C" by Tom Hausherr.http://cskl.de/fileadmin/downloads/PCBLIBRARIES/Documentation/What-is-New-in-IPC-7351C_.pdf
iPod Touch 1st gen LCD / digitiser - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ex-parrot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 11, 2014, 07:17:06 am
content: Hi everyone,I've come in to the posession of a few of these, and I'll be damned if I can find any kind of datasheet for them. Has anyone found anything in the past?The only real figures printed on (what I assume is) the panel driver are:S208137416552Z68A1TThe flat flex itself (which looks like it has too few pins, probably serial?) has "820HSB" printed on it.Any guesses / ideas?
I/Q mixer component for block assembly type - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: john23
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2024, 06:07:04 pm
content: Hello , There are platforms like Xmicrowave where we can create transievers like a lego assembly.Which is very good because we save lots of space.There is a component HMC8193, which is I/Q mixer.In the xmicrowave menu they dont say if the mixer is I/Q mixer.Is there a way i could find this type of component because i dont see it in the menu.Or is there some symilar company likeXmicrowave which could do symilar lego tranciever systems?Thanks.https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/hmc8193.pdfhttps://cascade.xmicrowave.com/

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2024, 06:47:46 pm
content: Quote from: john23 on October 05, 2024, 06:07:04 pmI've seen this prototyping system, it's very interesting. High end system with high end prices, but it is overall justified because the need for such a system is very limited. I've never seen similar RF system, the closes to it is to connect everything with SMA cables.
IR BEAM BREAK DETECTION - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: WIRENUT
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2014, 12:29:30 am
content: Hello,I am looking to build myself a circuit that must detect the presence of somebody walking by. I don't really want to use a motion sensor, I want to use a narrow beam that can be broken and close the circuit when people walk through it. I understand that most IR sensors have two parts: a transmitter and receiver. I have seen "door counters" in schools and public buildings that have the transmitter shoot the beam out and bounce back to itself, to be picked up by the receiver (witch is right next to the transmitter). Because the of the layout for my appication, it would be nice to have the circuit enclosure in one location.Does anyone have any suggestion on what to search, or what components I would need?? I search IR break beam sensors and all that comes up is Transmitter and Receiver circuit in separate circuits.Thanks,WIRENUT

author: DrJoe
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2014, 02:10:28 am
content: You could mount the transmitter and receiver in the same box with a mirror to reflect the beam back.Or look at some of the ultrasound kits sold for robotics. The transmitter and receiver are the same unit.Examples:https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2206168_-1https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2212402_-1

author: WIRENUT
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2014, 02:21:29 am
content: OK awesome. The mirror sounds like a great idea. And I will definitely check out the ultrasound kits. Do you know of any type of IR that can be reflected off most surfaces other than just mirrors?

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2014, 02:28:21 am
content: Google this for ideas.radio shack 49-310 Infrared

author: mij59
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2014, 03:46:16 am
content: Please have look this.http://www.ebay.nl/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=Photoelectric+sensor&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2
IR BEAM BREAK SENSOR - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: spike1947
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2020, 03:32:29 pm
content: HiAm wanting to make a "IR BEAM BREAK SENSOR" as per attached schematic! .Also I would like to add some sort of “Time Delay” to the schematic , so when the beam breaks, and the relay gets activated , would like the relay to stay activated for a couple of seconds after the object has passed through the beam !.Anyone got any idea's has to how I can achieve that ? .cheersSpike

author: StillTrying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2020, 04:02:19 pm
content: "when the beam breaks, and the relay gets activated"On that circuit the connection to Pin 7 DIS needs to be moved to Pin 2 TRG, and DIS left unconnected.Adding an ON time can be done with an RC on Pins 6 and 7.https://www.electronicshub.org/monostable-multivibrator-using-555-timer"couple of seconds"I always start with 1 megOhm and 1uF gives is about 1 second, so 1Meg and 2.2uF would give about 2.3 seconds on time, in theory.

author: spike1947
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2020, 10:07:42 pm
content: HiThanks for your reply, as per attached revised schematic ! .CheersSpike

author: StillTrying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2020, 10:38:46 pm
content: "as per attached revised schematic"The RC timing components are in the wrong place.

author: spike1947
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2020, 10:59:21 am
content: HiThanks for your help n replies, are we good to go on this one .cheersSpiike

author: spike1947
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2020, 07:08:20 pm
content: Revised schematic ! .cheersSpike

author: spike1947
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2020, 10:48:29 am
content: Schematicics info from : Dodgydave and StillTrying
Ir booster - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Hornnumb2
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2020, 12:34:19 am
content: I have this controller I bought to control my mini split a/c but the range of the ir is just to short to work consistently. Is there something I can put on the front of the controller to boost the signal some. Or would it be better off trying to find a better receiver somehow.

author: Hornnumb2
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2020, 01:45:35 am
content: I don’t mind tearing into this either, right now it has 2 irs going out the top and one out the front, don’t really need the top ones if removing those would help or swapping in a different ir.

author: Hornnumb2
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2020, 05:19:38 pm
content: Would it work if I unsoldered one ir on the cielo and hooked a wire in the place of it, then ran the wire to the a/c unit ir and piggy backed it on to that receiver. would that work? any harm in doing that, should I add a diode on the line to keep it one way traffic only?
IR detector for under the sun conditions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: LionyxML
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 04:40:41 pm
content: Hello there!I am currently using a SHARP G P 2 Y 0 A 4 1 S K 0 F for detecting ether or not user has his hand on the right position.Client says its "too pricy" of a sensor and gave me his already developed "random chinese 3mm ir led + another non random paired chinese 3mm phototransistor".I made it work ok, but under the sun, the por thing is absolutely blind! It works from what I could measure until 700lx, after that, it is blind.Any tips on how I could turn this into a sharp thing? IF possible?Should I just get the client to accept that good things working at any condition will have they right price?Any help is appreciated.Thank you!

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 05:03:47 pm
content: Have you considered other sensors such as the "time of flight" VL53L1?These also have a reduced range with high ambient light levels though.Code:"random chinese 3mm ir led + another non random paired chinese 3mm phototransistor".Do you need distance measurement, or just object detection?Is your 700lux outdoor light or indoor? Some lamps have a relatively high flicker content, and that may be a bigger problem then the absolute light level.Have you tried with a blinking LED at high frequency (100kHz to a few MHz) and then filter out all lower frequency content.Synchronous rectification / detection is another option to get more performance.Some other simple options are to put your phototransistor in a tube to shield it from most of the ambient light, and using a small lens shields it from even more ambient light and also increases sensitivity in a specific area. But be aware that normal glass is not transparent to IR.

author: LionyxML
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 05:31:24 pm
content: Thank you very much for your reply.Yes. I initially used a VL53L1 for this project. Mounting it on a PCB and putting pin headers makes it the same price (if not expensive) then the classic sharp.I am sure lamps are not my problem here. And yes you are right, in the past they kicked my as* on other projects. lol.Thanks for your isights on IR.Phototransistors might have to be polarized differently for both indoor/outdoor use, this might be accomplished automatically, also I might use compensation from "with ir led on - with ir led off", and then an automatically calculated gain to output the same range, also modulation is being tested and considerate. The fact is I see no how this might be cheaper than just getting a good tested within enclosure circuit like the sharp.Now let me stop ranting and answer you.700lx is indoors with an open window, but this circuit might be exposed directly under sun light in a tropical country.I need object detection with adjustable detection range that will not vary if exposed under direct sunlight. Also, both emitter and receiver must be in the same piece.Thanks again!
IR emitter angle of half intensity. Which beam angle is more effective - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: subliti
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2019, 09:46:50 pm
content: Maybe silly question..lets say we have an ir emitter and ir receiver in the same room, and we point the ir emitter 180 deg away from the receiver, then we push the button and rely on the fact that the ir light bounces from the walls of the room and hits the receiver...well ok lets just say we point it anywhere in the room. So my question is, would different beam angles have benefits over others in this scenario ? Would the reflected light from a narrow beam bouncing off of several walls be more efficient than a wider beam angle given that the radiated power exiting the led is equal for each ir led no matter what angle it has ?If i think this through..if we consider the walls as mirrors and a narrow beam angle like a laser, then the multireflected light would only hit the ir receiver if it hits it by "accident", because we got lucky and the light was refleceted just about at the right spot. But if you think more about it...the traveling beam also glows and this glow gets reflected everywhere...so the indirect glow will hit the receiver even without the actual focused laser hitting it directly.Now if we consider a wide beam..the wider the beam the easier it will hit the receiver from direct reflections, since it is so wide no lucky reflections are required.Still i dont know..

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2019, 09:58:10 pm
content: Most surfaces would give a non directional scattering. Mirror like reflection would be mainly from something like glass, polished metal and a mirror.So for the indirect path the beam angle usually does not make a large difference.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2019, 01:10:15 am
content: While your logic is largely correct, you didn't take one more important step. Those highly reflective surfaces will deliver almost all of their energy to the next surface encountered, which will either be a diffuse reflector or will repeat the process. As Kleinstein says, for the case you are analyzing it makes little difference. One case that I encounter more than I wish is when the battery is near the end of its life and overall power output is much lower. Murphy's law says that this will happen when the stores are closed or some other thing makes a battery change inconvenient. I am often trying to stretch the last few uses out of a remote's battery by aiming it straight at the receiver, and in this case a narrower beam helps.

author: subliti
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2019, 11:17:13 am
content: Ah i totaly forgot scattering. Ofc most of the light reflected from non shiny objects is scattered instead of producing direct reflections. My example was to ideal.I thought that in this scenario different beam angles maybe makes a difference even if it is tiny, but if it doesnt, well, ok.thanks
IR Emitter LEDs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: PICmonster
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2015, 01:58:25 pm
content: Hello EveryoneI am experimenting with IR Emitter LEDs and I am wondering why some of these LEDs are manufactured in black plastic and some are in clear plastic? I am aware that IR will pass through some non clear to the eye plastics?The reason for the colour differences in theses plastic are not covered in the datasheets that I have, is there a simple explanations here? I know from past experience that LEDs can react as photo detectors, is this what the manufactures are trying to reduce the photoelectric effect with the dark plastics?

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2015, 02:11:43 pm
content: Much more commonly, but not always, IR photodiodes (receivers) are encased in a blackish resin. I suppose that sometimes the matching IR LED is simply made the same way for visual appeal or cost or some other reason.On the receiving end, the dark resin serves a purpose by blocking visible light but passing IR. On the Tx end, it serves absolutely no purpose other than aesthetics. IR LEDs, like all LEDs, only produce a very narrow band of wavelengths, so there is no need to block visible light.

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2015, 02:41:51 pm
content: It definitely helps in identifying IR LEDs vs. visible LEDs that don't work!

author: con-f-use
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 06, 2015, 03:05:16 pm
content: Most IR-LEDs glow pale pinkish on the cathode when driven close to their continuous forward current, i.e. they emit a bit of visible light. For consumer devices that would be irritating to the customer. Also most of the stuff above.
IR handheld remote 'translator' module - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2015, 05:46:19 pm
content: summary: listen for one IR keycode, do a local table lookup and send out some other code or codes.quickie arduino nano project. 1 IR receiver (TSOP style) and a few IR leds ('blasters'). using the open source arduino ir send and receive library with some custom code to do the listen/lookup/send loop.a day's work.and now, it lets me get rid of an entire remote control unit and 'move' some of its functions over to the main one that I use for everything else.(no, my main unit is not a smart or learning remote; and I don't tend to like those, anyway. the learning part is this board-in-the-middle and that bridges the gap).will post code to github after a bit more testing and maybe a UI/cli layer for better programming.

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2015, 07:00:55 pm
content: KipKay did something very similar.
IR learner with external photodiode to replace TSOP98260? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mirthmuffin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 22, 2023, 04:43:55 pm
content: Vishay's TSOP98260 implements "IR learner" functionality, but allows an external photodiode that lets it be used with visible wavelength photodiodes. This unit is EOLed and Vishay has no replacement. Is there another unit out there that does this?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2023, 04:50:56 pm
content: This is the second topic you’ve started on this topic, and in the first one you haven’t answered the questions someone posed.I think it’d be better to explain what you’re actually trying to accomplish, instead of chasing down obsolete parts.

author: mirthmuffin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 22, 2023, 08:35:38 pm
content: I updated the other post with the data I got from Vishay regarding altering the existing units...and they pointed me to the EOL unit.The goal is to implement opto-acoustic feedback links for simple ranging. I have several choices (25, 32, 40, 48khz) for ultrasonic transducers for the acoustic channels. They fall within the frequency range used by IR remotes. Using an IR learner makes the IR channel easy...an equivalent learner unit for optical lets me add R, G and B just as easily to implement 4 feedback links. Depending on filter, I may be able to squeeze in an extra IR channel and ultrasonic at 38khz.
IR LED and photodiode - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Oaklander
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 08:32:54 am
content: I'm designing a device which is a bit like photointerrupter. There will be IR LED pointing at photodiode and I'm measuring the light getting to the photodiode.Therefore I should calculate the reverse current of the photodiode when there is no obstruction between LED and the photodiode. The problem is I'm not enirely sure how to do it.Power of the LED is given in mW/sr and photodiode reverse current in mW/cm2. How can I convert between the two? Obviously I need to know the distance between LED and photodiode. Is there something else to consider?

author: StillTrying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 02:09:18 pm
content: "Is there something else to consider?"Speed, AD/DC coupled, slower is easier, AC coupled is easier."I'm measuring the light getting to the photodiode."Measuring the amount of light, and detecting blocked/notblocked can be quite different.Too many variables, but at a wild guesstimate expect the photo current to be quite low, up to 2uA blocked, and 10 - 20uA unblocked.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2018, 02:17:07 pm
content: The rating in mW/Sr gives the power for a full surface of a sphere. So the area is 4 Pi times distance square.

author: TechieTX
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2018, 02:00:50 am
content: Don't try to measure the received power of the photodiode, smack that IR LED with 30-100KHz and detect the frequency at the receiving end with an IR receiver IC. It's *much* easier. If you see 38KHz, then there's no obstruction. If you don't, it's blocked.I got stuck trying it your way (long ago) 'cos the design was already in production, and it never did work right in varying light conditions. I could change the software to drive the LED with a pulsed signal, but had no way to detect it at the receive end. It was a trivial change to the circuit but they didn't want to do a recall on all of the machines since they were scattered all across the USA.If you're still in the design phase, try one of the IR receiver chips that has the ~40KHz bandpass filtering built-in, and your job is nearly done. I'm looking at one right now that runs a 38KHz bandpass filter. EDIT: a quick look at Digikey shows that today's frequency range is 20-60KHz with the majority of the parts running 30-40KHz bandpass, so that's your sweet spot for price. Here's one for example:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/vishay-semiconductor-opto-division/TSSP4038/TSSP4038-ND/3789836(datasheet is on that page, too)As a side benefit, you can drive the LED much harder if it's 10-30% duty cycle, giving you extended range and/or better immunity to varying light.Google: ir receiver bandpass filter agcgets 14,000 hits.Edit 2: In case I wasn't clear, the OUTPUT of these IR receiver chips is either high / open collector or low, showing that it's received the transmitted frequency or not. You don't have to decode anything, just use the high or low output.
IR P647  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Cicada
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2016, 04:35:42 pm
content: HiI struggle to get a datasheet for this device. I have it but I dont know what it does. See attached photo. Looks like soic 8Thanks for any help

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2016, 04:39:06 pm
content: IRF7821:http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irf7821.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a401535608c9f71d02

author: Cicada
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2016, 04:43:46 pm
content: Quote from: bktemp on September 17, 2016, 04:39:06 pmI did not think to try the bottom line. Thanks bktemp
IR Pics - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mojoe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2024, 05:08:06 am
content: Just for fun, here are some pics of that $18 OCXO board that I bought, along with shots of my HP58540 and BG7TBL GPSDO's. The two board closeups were taken with a macro lens. The blur is probably due to these being handheld shots.
IR protocol for RC toy cars ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Asim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 09:03:36 am
content: Hello everyoneI decided to build a simple RC car, I want to build it from scratch ( the IR transmitter and receiver).My question is what IR protocol should i use for programming the micro-controller ?the RC car should work the same way the tanks work. i will use 4 inputs to control the direction of rotation of the motorsleft motors ---------- right motorsforward----------------forward (The RC car will go forward )forward----------------backward (The RC car will go to the right)backward--------------forward (The RC car will go to the left)backward--------------backward (The RC car will go to backward)I hope my logic is correct, I am open for suggestions of any kind.Thanks

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 06:07:51 pm
content: I'd use a 38KHz modulated signal, and for the protocol, I'd probably use whatever protocol the remote for my TV uses for the directional pad that way I didnt have to build a controller.Even without a scope you could use an arduino and a 38khz receiver module to capture the IR protocolhttp://playground.arduino.cc/Code/InfraredReceiversMaybe even use the numbers to set the max speed of the toy, 1 tells it to go slow, 2 medium, 3 fast

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 08:45:12 pm
content: Choose an existing protocol from one of the three most popular "NEC", "RC5", or "SIRCS" (and variants). Do a little research and pick one you want to work with / learn about. Probably 99% of all consumer electronics with an IR remote use one of those.After you've chosen a protocol, you can use any cheap universal remote to control your vehicle, by making it respond to the codes sent by the corresponding buttons.

author: Asim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2013, 01:25:13 am
content: alright, I will start with it soonThanks guys

author: frank26080115
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2013, 07:30:12 am
content: Do you have a smartphone with "IR Blaster"?Mine does, and I can get an app that controls the pulses using a simple string representation of time intervals. So if you have a phone like mine, you've just avoided building half of a circuit and can implement whatever protocol you want.

author: Asim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2013, 02:46:05 pm
content: Quote from: frank26080115 on November 08, 2013, 07:30:12 amno i don't have one, i want to build the transmitter and the receiver to learn while doing something i consider interesting.

author: Gall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2013, 03:13:15 pm
content: First, take any existing transmitter you like and determine its protocol by using an IR receiver connected to oscilloscope. soundcard line-in will work too. Then make a receiver for that protociol using an ATtiny. Later, replace the transmitter with another ATtiny.
IR Protocol - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: truhlik_fredy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2011, 02:29:02 pm
content: Can somebody recognize the IR encoding protocol? I was looking and it reminds me something from IrDA, something RC5, something RECS80 and little bit of one Philips protocol as well but still I can't recognize it properly. It's small wireless keyboard for PDAs, it works with IrDA on PDA but I'm not sure if that is complaint with IrDA, it needs own driver and like the remote control apps I think it works in his own way and is not complaint with IrDA. On picture are 2 captured signals, one when the key was pressed and one when the is released, they are similar and then others pictures are just close ups from different parts. The whole signal takes about 5ms and usual (but not always) the spacing between slopes (together with the slope itself) is around 100uS. The first 7 spikes looks like are present on every key press. The reason why I don't want to record the codes and just play them back blindly is because I want to understand it. I think the device will be more robust when it will know what is it doing and why. And then I want 3 things, be able interact with PDA inside car just using same software. So In my car I have 4 way navigation buttons integrated and I have them connected to my MCU to navigate inside LCD menu etc... This way I could interact with PDA satnav without leaving hands from steering wheel. So in this case I want use already made driver and software and mimic the keyboard with different device. Later I want write driver for linux and keeping the the hardware keyboard so this time I don't need to build new hardware. And the last thing I want have PC keyboard altered to transmit that signal + having opportunity to extend devices capabilities (new codes, specials key etc...) and that won't be possible till I won't recognize how it working.Thank you. Anton.PS: When I will be finished I could publish it. The original driver is working on WM2003-2005 and 6.1 devices (and perhaps more, just I didn't had opportunity to test it)
i^2*r rating of fuse? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2014, 01:35:10 am
content: I have a switchmode module that has a inrush rating (symbol = I^2*t) of 0.2 A*s.I have an appropriate fuse selected (1 amp) but I don't know what value of I^2*T I should pick for the fuse.I can go from like 0.02 to 2. on one website I read that the value of the fuse I^2*T should be less then what is specified on the module. How much less?

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2014, 02:43:47 am
content: ah nmv, I was googing i^2t instead of i2t. easy peasy

author: eneuro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2014, 11:20:58 pm
content: I want put 2-3 fuses in pararellhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/fuses-in-pararell/Hopefully, I've found some design formulas therehttp://doc.aemcomponents.com/appnotes/AN_fuses_in_parallel.pdfThe only problem is to know those fuses i2t ratings, while there are crappy glass fuses for the moment and I haven't got its specs, so probably they willduring testing

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2014, 07:05:22 pm
content: Quote from: eneuro on October 08, 2014, 11:20:58 pmEven fuses from the same batch can have very different resistances. They won't balance the current between them so one will blow much quicker than at X2 your expected level
IR receiver - 4ZP4 KA22 specifications? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: raul
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 18, 2018, 01:51:47 pm
content: HiA question about a IR receiver component 4ZP4 KA22. I can't find what is and doesn't understand the lettering.This is from a Samsung AC SH9AWH Model. The LED, power and IR receiver Module.Someone knows what this designation means? 4ZP4 KA22 (This component is shielded, if the information matters). If i have to choose i go to a 40khz (1 output, 2 - Vcc, 3- Ground).Thanks

author: raul
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 20, 2018, 01:58:54 pm
content: Any idea? int or whatever?Thaaks

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2018, 03:58:00 pm
content: Do you need to replace this?It should be easy to figure out which pin is + power, which is ground, and which is the output signal, just by looking at connections on the PCB. Almost all IR receivers have an open-collector output (active low). I think Samsung usually uses 38 kHz carrier frequency, but a 40 Khz module would work too.

author: raul
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 20, 2018, 05:05:58 pm
content: Yes, is a replace. I know the pins, don't know the frequency. You ar not far for the frequency i though. So i will buy a pair of 38Khz and maybe one 40 for testing and stock proposes.Thanks for answer.
IR remote booster - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 29, 2016, 10:46:08 am
content: So, this is the itch I want to scratch: I love my Apple TV set-top box, but the remote control for it is kinda puny, even with a fresh battery. If I don't aim directly at the box, it often misses button presses.Now, I know that there are IR repeaters, of the kind intended for when the devices are inside a cabinet or in another room. And to be sure, such a thing would work. But they require you to glue an IR transmitter to each device in question, which is kinda ugly if the devices are out in the open, as I have them.Is there such a thing as an IR booster that's just like an ambient booster, for the same room? Could it be built? Or would it be stuck in a constant feedback loop?Or any other ideas??Thanks everyone!

author: dwpatter53
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2016, 10:11:22 pm
content: The Logitech Harmony Home remote control, the one for $99 with a simple remote and a puck receiver.The remote is wireless and the puck has a very powerful IR transmitter and comes with a plug in IR blaster for hidden devices.Plus there is a home automation add-on hub that supports z-wave and zigbee!There are lots of these on eBay; search for USB IR repeater. Only a few dollars!http://www.ebay.ca/itm/IR-Infrared-Remote-Control-Receiver-Extender-Repeater-Emitter-USB-Adapter-Black-/252218929252?hash=item3ab96b7064:g:9g0AAOSwNyFWdQCdThey are USB powered, plug into USB on TV or USB brick.

author: elecman14
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 01, 2016, 10:49:31 pm
content: That should not be that hard to build. All you really need to do is receive the IR remote and relay the signal on. Here is a link to something that may work:http://www.discovercircuits.com/DJ-Circuits/40kvcr.htmYou could add more IR leds to increase your transmit strength if needed.

author: kosthala
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 02, 2016, 07:22:40 am
content: Have a look at:http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Interface/irext5a.htm
IR Security Camerea illumination? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AcHmed99
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2016, 01:07:07 am
content: I purchased some high powered 850nm LEDs, LZ1-30R400.http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1829249.pdf?_ga=1.28545788.1531489934.1478220720I have two bolted to a KM-50 heatsink good enough for a 30C temp rise at 5W power dissapation. I'm driving them with a CC 1.2A@1.8Vf per LED, just testing them in my downstairs PC room and I'm not overly impressed with the night-vision range, it only seems to be a few feet. These LEDs should be outputting about 600mW/Sr each at that drive level, I would expect to see at least 10 or 20 ft if not more.I'm using just my handheld camera, Canon powerShot elph300HS. Before I waste my time hooking them up outside, would a security camerea be able to see further with these LEDs then my Canon? I'm assuming the poor performance is due to the fact my handheld isn't optimisied for low lighting?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2016, 01:34:03 am
content: Your Canon point 'n shoot has an IR cut filter. A security camera, on the other hand, does not (in IR mode).

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2016, 02:16:48 am
content: There is conveniently the data that shows the sensitivity to IR for just that camera:https://publiclab.org/notes/cfastie/04-20-2013/superblueIts possible to extend the wavelength range:http://maxmax.com/canon_elph_300hs.htmBut that may require new filters to be installed to maintain focus.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2016, 02:24:21 pm
content: As rule of thumb cameras made for good color rendering have IR filters inside. So most digital cameras have one, cheap webcams and low cost phones might be without. Security cameras usually don't have them. But it is really easy to test.For illumination it is more effective to have the light source closer to the area to observed, especially if the LED is not focused. With the LED at the camera you need about 4 times the power if the object is twice as far. With the LEDs at the objet you don't need more power at larger distance, just the visible area is limited to where the light is. Having the LED directly in the field of view might cause blinding.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2016, 06:16:21 pm
content: Just to test if the camera is IR sensitive, you don't need so much power. A normal IR LED, a 50 Ohms resistor and a 3 V source (e.g. 2 AA Cells) should be good enough - especially as you have a camera than i known not to have a filter to compare to.The normal IR leds you likely find with the camera are likely much less powerful. More like 100 mA instead of 1 A current rating - though more focused. So expect more like 10-50 mW/Sr, maybe 100 mW/Sr if highly focused (10 degree types) for each LED. So 10 of the simple LEDs might be as good as one of the larger ones - just you have the choice of suitable focus.
IR sensor for black color - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: fedimakni
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2020, 08:26:48 am
content: Hello,I am currently using the SI1151 as an IR sensor to detect human presence. While testing i found that we could not detect people with black clothes while everything is fine with other color.Datasheet:https://www.silabs.com/documents/public/data-sheets/si115x-datasheet.pdfI know that black color absorb light but is there any solution so we could fix this and be able to detect any people enter the field of detection of the sensor?I hope to get a feedback from you and thank you in advance

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2020, 06:32:28 pm
content: You're using the wrong type of sensor. You might as well use a green LED and a photodiode.Near-visible IR (840...970 nm) will only give you an optical detection. There's a reason that alarm systems use PIR detectors that senseheatradiation at a wavelength of >10 um.And there's a reason why thermal imaging is so expensive.

author: fedimakni
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 04:22:30 am
content: I think you are speaking about different topic, I am just using the sensor to detect human presence just as simple as that.The problem that people wearing black clothes can't be detected with high accuracy while other people with other clothes color are easy to detect

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 06:28:54 am
content: Have you looked at PIR? Why does it not fit your application?
IR tracking system attached to UAV (flying robot) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mrmrzamany
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 06:37:49 pm
content: Hello,I have a project and i want your opinion/advice:My project is : I'll create an IR beacon consists of IR emitters ( the beacon will be like a half ball so it can radiaties everywhere in the room) , I'll attach 4 IR receivers in the UAV( flying object). The job of this UAV is to locate/find the IR beacon that is in the ground (this can be done by analysing the signal received by one of the receiver in the UAV)My question is: is that possible ??this is the IR receiver that I want to usehttp://www.vishay.com/docs/82458/tssp40.pdfand this is the IR transmitters that I'll form a beacon fromhttp://www.vishay.com/docs/81009/tsal6100.pdfAm I in the right direction?Are the chosen IR receiver and emitter are good for this idea ?any suggestion please

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 26, 2016, 01:42:29 am
content: HiThe detectors you show are wide angle detectors. an array of six of them will give you above / below/ left /right / front back. Once you get inside a 90 degree arc, they stop discriminating. That is going to make finding anything quite difficult. I'm sitting in a room right now. Telling me that an object is on the wall to my left is fine. It does not help me much in finding that object since it could be anywhere in a 5M x 5M square. I don't really know where to go to track it down ... If there are multiple emitters in the room, figuring out which one is which adds even more difficulty to the problem.Bob

author: mrmrzamany
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 26, 2016, 02:19:50 pm
content: Quote from: uncle_bob on July 26, 2016, 01:42:29 amHello,knowing the direction is fine, how about the receiver? is it good enough to detect the IR emitter when its on the flying UAV??, can I use triangulation to know the exact location or even the direction ?regrading the multiple emitters, can I just place two inside the room ( one in each side) and identify to location of moth emitters ?

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2016, 04:26:26 pm
content: For triangulation you need angles but do those sensors give you angles or just intensities? If you can rotate the drone or the sensors you can use it to derive angles, e.g the angle of max intensity.

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 26, 2016, 10:45:54 pm
content: Quote from: mrmrzamany on July 26, 2016, 02:19:50 pmHiThe sensors you have linked to are totally non-specific. They are wide range / no angle sensors. To find a target with one in this room:Fly within 6" of all the surfaces at 6" spacing.Log all the intensity data and location informationDump it into a PCCalculate likely targetsGo back and re-fly the targets at a closer range and finer resolution.That does not seem like a very efficient way to do it compared to:Fire up a cameraTake a picture in each of 6 directionsShift eight feetRepeat the picturesDo the analysisGo to the targets.There are some in-between approaches with narrow beam (10 degree) sensors as well.Bob
IR Transmitter/Receiver Troubleshooting Help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: MechaMan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 20, 2021, 01:23:31 am
content: Hey everyone!This is my first time posting but I have following the EEV channel for 5 years.Today I am bringing to you guys a personal project that I have been working on for a while nowIt's an IR transmitter and receiver circuit. I've already made a bunch of progress on it but I have gotten stumped on this last part.First I will show you the circuits I have simulated for this projectTransmitter(video demonstration)ReceiverWHAT I NEED HELP WITH:I am able to drive the motor at different speeds based on the pwm of my transmitter circuit. However, I am running into an issue though. When I try to run the motor at a high duty cycle it keeps quitting. I've tried using some bypass capacitors across the motor terminals.If more videos, pictures, or explanations are needed let me know!Thanks everyone! Looking forward to working with you guys

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2021, 03:37:53 am
content: High duty cycle will cause the AGC in the IR receiver to squelch the signal. As a general rule the duty cycle should be kept to 50% or less.

author: MechaMan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2021, 02:38:57 am
content: Thanks oPossum! I didn't know about that rule of thumb but that makes a lot of sense why it kep shutting off.If I want the motor to be able to deliver more RPM's will I just have to deliver more power then? Are there any other workarounds?