hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Philips PM2521 Bench Multimeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Chet T16
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2011, 05:07:46 pm
content: Hi just picked one of these up, sort of by accident. Its the PM2521/23 which is the battery versionI've powered it up and measured a battery voltage with it and it worked so thats good but i haven't done much else with it.Anyone else have one? Some info here:PDFI also found a service manual dated 1982, no idea what years they were made. I'll have to pull it apart and get some pics

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2011, 05:29:54 pm
content: Very nice! The burden voltage on the <2mA range is very low

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2011, 06:25:46 pm
content: May we have a look inside, please?After repairing and playing around with my Philips scope and looking their other stuff up on the net I've come to like Philips test equipment, even though I'd usually rather avoid their products.

author: Chet T16
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2011, 06:43:59 pm
content: I'll get some pics up soon. I've popped teh lid off here but i've no camera (only my phone) Hooray for no SMD parts

author: qno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2011, 06:48:26 pm
content: It is a nice one. I used to have one years ago.I used to measure batteries with that.I like the little wheel. In trigger mode you can determine the peak value with that.See if you can download a manual somewhere.The calibration is done with one resistor.

author: Chet T16
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2011, 07:29:29 pm
content: Yep, got the service manual. Never downloaded one before but its amazing, 187 pages of all the info you could ever need and then some!

author: Specmaster
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2017, 11:51:57 pm
content: Do you still have this meter? If so how has it performed for you?I'm asking because I have just bagged one on Ebay, not sure if it works or not at this stage as the seller did not have a power cord for it. If it works OK or I can get it working, I was thinking about the possibility of adding some leds around the screen to improve the readability assuming there is sufficient access to the screen for this?
Hotswapping tips with a Weller WXMP handle? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: agehall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2017, 09:47:33 am
content: I can't really find a good answer to this - is it OK to hotswap the tips in a Weller WXMP handle? By hotswap I mean just pull the tip cartridge out without shutting the power to the handle off beforehand.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2017, 11:20:50 am
content: According to the manual...QuoteSource(.pdf).Seems ridiculous, and I'd contact Weller to verify. Particularly as this is possible with other top tier stations from other manufacturers such as Hakko and JBC (meaning the cartridge types specifically).Edit: Clarification.

author: pmcouto
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 26, 2017, 11:35:51 am
content: I don’t know about WXMP, but with WMRP and WMRT (previous generation) you cannot hot-swap tips.If you do, the controller shows an error and disables the output, requiring a power cycle to recover (I’m not aware of any other way to recover).

author: Omicron
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2017, 12:18:56 pm
content: Don't hot swap them. I've destroyed a few tips doing that! The temp sensor in them gets blown if you're unlucky. Turn the station off then swap.No need to wait 3 minutes and let them cool though. I never bother with that. Just turn the station off, swap, turn back on. It takes only a second or two.

author: agehall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2017, 09:35:44 pm
content: And when we say "switch off the station", I assume it's enough to just turn off the iron and that I don't have to flip the switch at the back?I had actually read the instructions in the manual at some point, but I was a bit surprised there wasn't a big fat warning "NEVER HOT-SWAP TIPS OR THEY MIGHT BREAK!" - the current writing seems very much like a protection against liability imho.
Universal programmer / TL866 question about damaging IC's... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2017, 05:42:46 pm
content: So I got one of these TL866A's from eBay to do some flash programming and it seems to work well on a 5x7 PLCC flash IC that I have. I also pressed a piece of sram against an adapter board and got it to test that successfully too. My question is, being that it is universal in nature, can it damage an IC if you select the wrong one and try to do an operate on it?

author: alm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2017, 07:14:38 pm
content: I have not tested it, but probably. Connecting the wrong pins to Vcc can damage something (e.g. reverse power, 6.5 V to a 1.8 V device). Never mind a Vpp of up to 21 V. The current limit may or may not save you. I would not bet some expensive/rare IC on it.
Cheap Soldering Iron Pr0n - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2017, 09:44:50 am
content: Suhan 616 (with third party handpiece), Bakon, Hakko 888 stand for reference.Suhan is technically shorter... but the removeable IEC cord sticks out the back.And I added some siding to bring the power cord to the front. You can see in the top pic where I hacked the Bakon, running the cord through the front of the enclosure. There is NO ROOM in the Suhan. The PSU is a solid brick!Throw your favorite T12 tips in your go bag. A 2L bottle "preform" is wide enough to hold 5 tips. And it's exactly long enough, if........if you have two of them, a saw, and a soldering iron@ Mariush and STJ, If you look close at the top pic, you can see the washer I made for the Bakon handpiece to tighten up the tip fit. I've used the iron more than a few times, and the handpiece isn't melting.@Mariush: you were right about the tip sticking out the back of my Bakon. The first casualty is a melted hole through a drill bit case.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2017, 10:15:51 am
content: While I'm at it, this thing started life as a Weller BP650. I made it probably over 12 years ago. Recently it started flaking out. I thought it was giving up the ghost... perhaps because I soldered to the battery case with plumber's flux (12 years ago, I didn't have a bottle of RA flux, and I washed it best I could). But I found my spare tips, put one in, and it's still going strong.You can see I just spot-welded the batteries together with solder beads. And there's a little bit of corrosion, evident. If this ever shorted, I can only imagine the flames shooting out the sides.(These are salvaged cells, so I'm not positive they have safety fuse, but the positive terminal is pretty well protected).I wish I remember what the white label is at the bottom. It's either faded away, or it was always a blank piece of Brother label? I imagine it said "4.2V" at one point.I think I did pretty good on the energy density. I've never run out of batteries, anyhow.Hold the button for 2 seconds to turn it on (the heating starts the instant you press, but it won't latch unless you keep it held for the full 2 seconds). It start up with full 3.6V power for the approximate time it takes to reach 200C. (Or if the iron was already hot you could press the button to immediately enter standby). Then it switches to 25% duty cycle standy, which is about what it takes to keep it at 200C. Red/green LED indicates the status. Tapping the button will give full power for about 2 seconds, or you can doubletap and hold to keep full power on, indefinitely. It shuts down after 2 minutes, if unpressed. Or you can hold the button down for 2 seconds to shut it down. It's very simple, but it works great on protoboard or SMD stuff on double-sided pcb.
1TB USB stick storage - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: FMpersia
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 16, 2017, 04:04:18 pm
content: Hey EEV people, i am a medical student with interest in electronics. i put toghether my own pc and swapout components and very basic stuff. I saw usb stick storage with 1tb capacity. is this any good or is it going to takes ages to read and write the last MB 's of capacity?And what is the diference of memory chips in SSD and usb and DRAM and SRAM?Sorry, it seems a stupied q? for an engereer, but i don't know. anyone care to share knowledge?thanx

author: kalel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2017, 04:06:30 pm
content: I'm sure you can find the specifications for that specific model. Read/write speeds of all kind (small segments, large files) will be displayed there.I would expect it to be slower than most SSDs, or hugely expensive.Not an expert into the inner construction of memory chips, but someone will help out.

author: Rbastler
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2017, 04:09:30 pm
content: DRAM is dynamic ram, it stores the information with a capacitor and therefore needs to be refreshed and reading is is destructive, which also means a refresh is needed. But its cheap.SRAM is static ram. The information is stored inside a flipflop. It uses more space and costs more. But it needs no refresh circuit.

author: johnkeates
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2017, 01:37:10 am
content: Do not get extremely large USB sticks! Online, most of them are fakes, and those that are not fakes will have the same issues that all USB drives have:- they break easily (yes, the metal ones too)- they wear out easily (not enough space for multiple chips, and even over provisioning + controller GC won't help that much)- you lose them easily- they are more expensive than an SSDIf you want fast, reliable portable storage, get something like a portable SSD or mSATA SSD + mSATA to USB case (they are very small!). It will be extremely fast if you use USB3 and if the case has USAP/UASP/UPSA/whatever? support (it's something like USB SCSI Access Protocol - better than USB Mass Storage mode).

author: FMpersia
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 17, 2017, 05:38:56 pm
content: that's all helpfull info. thanx guys.
$27 T12 station beats Hakko 888 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2017, 04:05:17 am
content: Yeah, I realize this is old news for many. I see SparkyBG Unisolder has been around for a few years, now. And many controllers/stations available from China. I have been under a rock.Well, I finally got a Bakon 950D (for $27), thanks to the endorsement of STJ and other members, here. And I put it to the test.In short, the Bakon, at only 19.45VDC, is at least as good or better than the 888 in every test I have made so far, using similar tips. Warm up time is fairly identical. Melting giant solder blobs on copper clad, the Bakon was slightly better in thermal response/output using BCF3 tip on each. With the tiny tips, they are both do about the same. Not that great. But now I have an even bigger itch to see what happens at 26V.I also did a good amount of actual soldering of SSOP IC's, some SOT23's, and passives. The T12 tips and Bakon station performed great.Main gripe with T12 tips are the length. Even though the tip to grip distance is much shorter, the overall length of the handpiece is greater than the 888/936... So if you actually hold it up close to the tip, you are dragging a lot of cord on the back-heavy handpiece. I hacked about 3/4" off the end of my clone handpiece, and that's all she can give up before I'm at the end of the actual connector.So what's wrong with it? Only 19.5V. Power switch is not firmly in place, which is potentially a safety issue. It's just friction preventing one from pulling out the switch and the live mains wire with it. There's a little wiggle in the tip to handpiece fit, which is mildly irritating. And the UI... it's ok. It saves your last setting, which is adjustable to individual degrees, but apparently you can't change the 5 presets, which will forever be in 50C increments.Anyhow, thanks to STJ for suggesting the Bakon. And yeah, I have decided to abandoned the 888 mod... it would require cutting a lot of power planes and traces... and the UI would still suck, afterall. It looks like Sparky BG and Marco Reps have already figured out and shared all of the technical hurdles. And it looks like the Chinese market already has all the DC powered T12 controllers one could imagine for pocket change. But I still want to make my own, eventually, to run off unfiltered AC like Sparky's, and to fit in the 888.

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2017, 03:51:28 pm
content: i cant see sparky's design going into a hakko shell easily, it has a huge parts count.try the TS100 design, but ditch the gyro i.c. and replace the tiny OLED with a common 0.96" one from ebay - maybe even the new colour one.that should fit into the hakko shell pretty easy.
Voltcraft LS50 soldering station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: scotmacg20
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 08, 2017, 04:08:01 pm
content: Hi all. I have found my stored LS50 soldering station with iron martked SL-1. i need some new tips but am unsure what is suitable to fit. Can anyone advise me please. Thanks in advance.

author: Retep
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2017, 04:45:20 pm
content: Conrad used to sell these. I think these are compatible with your iron:https://www.conrad.nl/nl/toolcraft-kk-15030p-tip-d-soldeerpunt-beitelvorm-grootte-soldeerpunt-5-mm-1013233.htmlhttps://www.conrad.nl/nl/toolcraft-kkt-5bb-soldeerpunt-potloodvorm-grootte-soldeerpunt-5-mm-588297.htmlhttps://www.conrad.nl/nl/plato-tx-406-soldeerpunt-potloodvorm-verlengd-grootte-soldeerpunt-08-mm-823347.htmlhttps://www.conrad.nl/nl/plato-tx-440-soldeerpunt-potloodvorm-smd-verlengd-grootte-soldeerpunt-04-mm-823360.html

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2017, 06:04:05 pm
content: HiNot familiar with that particular solder station. Looks like a chinese statiin rebranded by a number of vendors.I notice yiu are Scotish, so are probably looking for UK supplier :Maplinshttp://www.maplin.co.uk/p/48w-lcd-display-solder-station-used-b94ln] http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/48w-lcd-display-solder-station-used-b94lnI think they have discontinued that model but may still sell the bits.Duratoolhttp://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00675/soldering-station-uk-plug/dp/SD01387] http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00675/soldering-station-uk-plug/dp/SD01387(I use CPC regularly so I can vouch they are ok.)I cannot say for certain they have the same iron on the station, please check for yourself.Hope this helps

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2017, 03:45:25 pm
content: rapid has stuff branded "anvil" that may fit.
"CM" Brand Soldering pot, any experience?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: peps1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2017, 06:11:33 pm
content: Look at getting a solder pot for dip soldering my PCBs, and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with the ubiquitous CM branded ones found on ebay and aliexpress?Any alternative, recommendations, or words of wisdom very much welcome on the topic of solder baths and dip soldering!

author: peps1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2017, 03:37:02 pm
content: Eddied the link out that required an AliExpress account, and added a photo
WLX-936D Solder Station schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jdev99
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2017, 11:06:16 pm
content: I bought one of these in 2015 for £28 and was quite happy with it until recently.It started giving all weird problems, temperature fluctuating, flashing display, dead display etc.So I decided to take it apart to see if I can find the problem and maybe fix it.While it was apart, I decided to redraw the schematic (as accurate as I can)To my surprise it actually uses an Atmega8a-AU.This is the result: (See attachments)In the end I decided just to "upgrade" it to this :https://www.hackster.io/sfrwmaker/soldering-iron-controller-for-hakko-907-v-2-fc75d7

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2017, 11:27:51 pm
content: Gotta love how whoever assembled that completely ignored the strain relief holes for 9V and 24V wires.

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2017, 10:31:48 am
content: you should look at these projects if you really want to use that shit iron.the originalhttps://debugginglab.wordpress.com/2014/10/30/soldering-station/the improved version.https://github.com/manolena/DIY-SMD-Soldering-Station
Pegasus Jr. SFF Computer - Motherboard Info? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2017, 03:41:41 pm
content: I've got a Pegasus Jr. SFF fanless computer that I'm planning on turning into a Stratum 1 NTP server. Does anyone have info on the motherboard switches & jumpers? It's made by MTE in Taiwan, but they don't have any documentation on their web site. Even the Wayback Machine couldn't help.This is an older version that's identified on the board as 'PC890 Rev 1.1'. It has a 1 GHz Celeron instead of the Atom processor in the newer versions.I've attached a picture of my unit.TIA,Ed
What is this plug - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: valley_nomad
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2017, 09:13:15 am
content: Does any one know where I can get this 2-pin plug? It has 2mm pitch. The dimensions of its plastic part is about 14mm x 5mm. Thanks.

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2017, 09:16:20 am
content: I think I would go for a pcb header superglued into a socketnever seen a plug like that, samtec ?

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2017, 09:36:25 am
content: Local hobby shop. Two- and 3-pin connectors are frequently used for servo and battery connections (for electronics, not power) in models. If you want to convert a socket to a plug, just pull pins from a header and insert them into the socket. Headers are available with pins up to more than an inch in length. I would source one with pins a little longer than the most common variety. You can also make the plug using crimp-on pins. Berg is one brand, but there are several.John

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2017, 10:47:03 am
content: Quote from: valley_nomad on June 17, 2017, 09:13:15 amOne of those measurements is wrong for the pictured style of connector. A 2mm pitch connector would have a 4mm wide housing. But a 2.54mm pitch connector could have a about a 5mm wide housing. I'm going to guess it's more likely the pitch is 2.54mm ( aka 0.1 inch), which is the more common size for what's generically known as "dupont" connectors.If you make your own, the male pins, female pins and wire housings are seperate items. The pins click into the housing. Crimping pins to wires is the hard part and requires a tool and practice...there are many videos on that subject, but get extra pins because you will have failures.

author: kalel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2017, 07:23:24 pm
content: I'm assuming that it's compatible with dupont as well, but if not, it looks like one.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2017, 06:55:50 pm
content: That looks like some kind of crimped connector. I've made them before but it's better to use female connectors on the wire part. The crimp on male pins I've seen are folded metal and not very sturdy.This is made with Molex SL parts:

author: valley_nomad
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2017, 01:28:48 am
content: Thanks for all replies. My measurement was indeed wrong. It is a 2-pin 2.54mm pitch Dupont male header/connector

author: jeremyshipley3
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 26, 2017, 12:31:41 am
content: new here but that plug is used in automotive interior lights.You can get a package of them at most auto parts stores (AutoZone,Napa,etc)Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Anyone fluent in optocoupler safety data? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tronde
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2017, 10:30:27 pm
content: I am looking at the HCNR201 and hope someone can give some information regarding the UL 1577 data and the IEC/EN/DIN EN 60747-5-2 data.UL 1577 say not much more than 5 kV rms/1 min while the IEC/EN/DIN is a lot more comprehensive.What normal working voltage can be expected for the UL 1577 types? I understand that the IEC/EN/DIN type is rated for 1414 Vpeak.I have attached the datasheet downloaded from Braodcom today.Intended use is for 230V mains non-commercial use, and the reason for my interest in the UL-types is because none of my prefered supplers sell the IEC/EN/DIN type.

author: f5r5e5d
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2017, 11:09:17 pm
content: https://docs.broadcom.com/docs/AV02-2041ENhas some more HCNR201 safety dataand there's a new AVAGO dela-sigma isolation amp with even better isolation numbershttps://www.broadcom.com/products/optocouplers/industrial-plastic/isolation-amplifiers-modulators/isolation-amplifiers/acnt-h790-000e- of course at a price...aplication details make for big differences in safety requirements

author: tronde
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2017, 11:55:16 pm
content: Thanks alot!Yes, I know I must care about more than just the datasheet, but I was puzzled by the lack of data for the UL-types.From page 83 it seems like any UL 1577 rated optocoupler should be able to permanently withstand 600 VAC rms or DC. Am I correct on that?The requirements of UL 1577 are also intended for optocouplersused in equipment with a supply voltage not exceeding 600 V ac rms or dc.I will take a look at the ACNT too. About twice the price, but mabe worth it.
3G GSM IR SENSOR ALARMS - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: PowerNet
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2017, 03:41:01 am
content: Hi,Has anyone has any experience using and setting up these tiny modules including Arduino modules ?All the ones I have found on ebay are made for the 2G network which not many countries have anymore.Im thinking about getting something like this.https://www.ultrasecuredirect.com/wireless-indoor-alarms/shed-garage-alarms/battery-gsm-wireless-ultrapir-alarm/3g-battery-ultrapir-gsm-alarm-007-1150-p1167.htmlcheers.
Switch Mode Power Supply - Rate LED Driver PCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: hugo_g
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 14, 2017, 02:26:13 am
content: Hi EEVblog'ers,Follow the YouTube channel but first time poster, hopefully I posted in the correct section.I have two PCB from LED Drivers. Don't want to tell you too much up front as I want to keep feedback as neutral ;-) but the aim of the game is to just review the quality, i.e. safety, construction, layout, general comments.Both are constant current (CC), one @ 350mA the other is selectable from 180mA, 250mA and 350mA depending what output jack you use.ThanksLED1:LED2

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2017, 05:22:00 am
content: Seems generally okay?How hot does it get? Does it operate for >24hr at, say, 85C ambient?What's EMI like? (I have a setup to measure this, but, ah, I'd need one to test...)Tim

author: hugo_g
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 14, 2017, 11:40:57 am
content: The following relates to LED2 (LED1 not tested, other then a quick power cycle)Using a laser temp the surface temp of the plastics were 45C tops, in one spot, pretty much near the transformer. Also made a very slight hum.Some more info, one is a generic brand (probably a reference design that every man in China produces), the other, while still produced in China, is from a big brand name known for lighting power supplies.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2017, 06:34:44 pm
content: Number one is safety, and first I look for a fuse... I don't see any.One has no fuse but instead MOX resistor.One part the chinese have to realize is important.

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2017, 09:23:14 am
content: Usual problem with this cheap tack is it knocks out broadband! Dont see any input filters on 2nd one so should be banned, 1st one not sure if component lower down is common mode choke or not but obviously L2/3 are not. How about PFC or is lighting exempt ?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2017, 08:29:38 pm
content: LED1 uses active PFC on the primary side, so it will have good PFC for sure, and nice decent layout and at least has good filtering and protection. LED@ no PFC, so will be poor, and filtering is there, but the lack of heatsink on the power switch, right next to capacitors, means they will be cooked in the typical enclosure. Screw terminals direct to big mains wires will crack with time on this as well, as there is nothing other than solder as mechanical support, on the first at least the potting will do some along with the plastic connector housing.

author: hugo_g
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 20, 2017, 05:18:11 am
content: Hi All,LED1 is 220V - 240V operating rated, with a range of 198V – 264VLED2 is 200V - 250VLED1 has ENEC Mark and LED2 has others depending on the market, but claims RMC (Australia) and database seems to match up, but it's always difficult to confirm who the manufacturer is as there appears to be several companies producing this part/design.Thanks
Warning about older 6v soldering irons! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: OleST
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 07:00:17 am
content: it might sound stupid but i was trying to use and old 6V adamin soldering iron with my 0-6V adjustible power and quickly learned that i need to limit the output, at 6v the iron drew 2 amps, went red hot and then stopped workinglearn from my mistakes!but atleast i have an ekscuse to buy a shiny new ts100!

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 07:35:06 am
content: Are you sure you could use 6Vdc?If you soldering iron has any temperature regulation, than you can perhaps only use AC, not DC....

author: OleST
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 22, 2017, 07:44:21 am
content: the box said "for automotive use" so i assumed it was meant for 6v dc becuse some older cars use 6v electrical systems?but anyways, the iron is toast.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2017, 06:32:17 pm
content: How old was it? Cars haven't used 6V electrical systems since the 1940s and most of those have been retrofitted to 12V by now.

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2017, 06:52:59 pm
content: Quote from: james_s on May 22, 2017, 06:32:17 pmTrabants used a 6V system too and that is decidedly postwar car.Also many contraptions derived from motocycles use 6V electrics. It isn't very common but still exists.

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2017, 07:22:01 pm
content: VW Beetles were 6 Volt through 1966, IIRC.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2017, 07:24:31 pm
content: Well whatever the case it's not common. This would have to be a very old soldering iron to be intended for 6V. Perhaps it's part of a system and was supposed to connect to an external controller?

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2017, 07:54:52 pm
content: Quote from: OleST on May 18, 2017, 07:00:17 amAdamin, hmm... Did it look like this?http://www.bidorbuy.co.za/item/97993614/Vintage_Adamin_Made_In_England_Soldering_Iron_Working_Perfectly_Refer_To_Pictures_For_Condition.html

author: tronde
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2017, 01:15:08 am
content: Quote from: james_s on May 22, 2017, 07:24:31 pmErsa minor is 6V.http://www.tme.eu/en/details/ersa-minor/soldering-irons-and-guns/ersa/

author: OleST
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 29, 2017, 07:36:58 am
content: Quote from: tronde on May 23, 2017, 01:15:08 amit looked really scimilar except it didnt have the solder sucker. (i still have the box for it so i could possibly get you a pic of that, i might even have another one that is new in box?)

author: NottheDan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2017, 09:19:16 am
content: Quote from: janoc on May 22, 2017, 06:52:59 pmOnly until 1983 IIRC. The ones built afterwards were 12V.

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2017, 06:45:03 pm
content: Quote from: sokoloff on May 22, 2017, 07:22:01 pmI can attest to that. I had a VW bug made in the 1960's that was 6V.
Anyone tried the S3CMOS USB3.0 camera for microscopes? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: HSPalm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2017, 10:24:02 am
content: Hi,Just checking if anyone have had an experience with the S3CMOS microscope camera yet.I'vefound one reviewbut no sample images were given, which would be especially useful because of the limited field of view compared to the eyepieces.I was planning to buy ithere, if it's an okay camera. Unfortunately, not many USB3.0 cameras comes with SD card holder for recording, which I thought would be nice so I didn't have to pick up my computer every time I want record something.
Modular Battery Chargers, Good Or Crap? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Cyberdragon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 10:59:43 pm
content: First impression: awesome!Second impression: Dangerous pile of shit...

author: imidis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 11:29:10 pm
content: The wondering screw and lack of certifications would make me a bit leery. I thought the funniest thing was the whole number labeling system was rather incomparable with most of the modules because of the plugs being where the labels would go.

author: Cyberdragon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 11:34:09 pm
content: My favorite part was "made from demon core and rubix cubes".We need a teardown!

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2017, 07:44:10 am
content: My initial impression was bad. Then the device/concept totally lost me at the point it needed to be paired despite it1. being physically plugged in2. Having a mini computer in there running a graphical touchscreen LCD
JBC t210 and t245 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: soeren72
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 06, 2017, 06:03:45 pm
content: HiI would like to make a stand for a soldering station project.Can anyone help me with the outer diameter of the metal ringwhere the tip is insertedThanks

author: Fgrir
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2017, 04:58:38 pm
content: I have a CD-1BE base and T245-A handle, but I don't have a T210 handle to measure for you. I think the stand is supposed to be compatible with either handset though, so maybe these measurements get you what you need.Outer diameter of 245-A ring: 0.465 inInner diameter of stand mouth: 0.473 inInner diameter of stand hole: 0.354 in

author: soeren72
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 08, 2017, 08:15:31 am
content: Thanks
Hakko 936 Transformer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fisher77
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2017, 12:33:53 am
content: Anyone know what the specs are for the 936 transformer?Mine went out. I have a 24V, 100VA on hand I can replace it with, but dont know if itwill work or not. I looked on Hakko's website, but they of course do not list the specs on there,and it has been discontinued.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2017, 12:39:00 am
content: 100VA should be more than sufficient, although it might not fit in the case. The original 936 is 60W, clones may be anywhere from 45W to 75W.

author: Fisher77
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2017, 02:11:54 am
content: Thanks for the reply amyk. Size is a good point. I will have to check that when I get back home.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2017, 02:59:09 am
content: Hakko specs the 936 at 50W. No data on Hakko B2012 transformerBut soldering stations are not 100% duty-cycle, so I think some manufacturers undersize transformers a bit.I usually repair power transformers, they're just copper wire and a thermal fuse. Usually bad solder joints or flux corrosion.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2017, 01:44:16 pm
content: They sell them on Ebay, do a google for the manual if you need to look up the part numbers.
Tetherable webcam with manual focus? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2017, 04:30:39 am
content: I am looking for a wired webcam with good optical quality. Good color rendition, good in low light, durable, manual focus.It doesnt have to be just USB, for example, one of those gopro clones might be perfect if it has manual focus and can act as a wired cam.Any suggestions?
Neptune Apex Aquarium Controller and AquaBus - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: theatrus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2017, 03:45:04 am
content: As my other money pit, I keep reef aquariums, and currently use an off-the-shelf controller solution designed for this application made by Neptune Systems. Its now an older design, but still sold as the "APEX Classic". Of particular interest to me is the expansion bus on the unit which lets you daisy chain a number of modules, such as 0-10V output pods, sensors, and more, all of which are substantially overpriced. It physically uses A to A USB cables (!), but otherwise isn't USB. The end goal is to reverse engineer the bus and see if I can whip up an emulated module which mimics an existing one in terms of controller functionality.First off, a small teardown of what the brains of a $549 setup look like (serial number in the 8000 range!). This is the main brain and sensor hub, not pictured are a display assembly and the controllable power strip (that will follow)The top side of the main PCB.The board iscoveredin flux. While it appears to have been stenciled, it also has a number of components which were clearly hand touched or soldered since solder doesn't normally end up globbed half way up IC leads. It appears to have been assembled by muppets and never cleaned.The bottom of the board is also bad, where some of the guide pins of the connectors are clearly melted by a soldering iron:The main processor is an LPC2368.The AquaBus is physically a CAN bus (MAX3059 transceiver), but appears to use a limited form of MODBUS/RTU as the actual protocol layer (at least the checksumming is in place), running at 19.2kbaud.The pH sensor is a simple TS27L4 op-amp, which is then sampled by an ATTiny 25 in a little galvanic isolated section (with a modular DC/DC converter) with the signalling happening through a single photoisolator.Stay tuned for the power bar, and some protocol analysis.The
Pneumatic Spot welder owners - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: anishkgt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2017, 10:57:32 pm
content: Hi all,Does anyone have a pneumatic spot welder who has done tear down. if yea would like to know how the weld head is bolted or is screwed to the metal road like thing that lowers. Is the whole assembly lowered or just the weld head ?I am doing a project similar to it but instead of air i plan to use the servo. i have the PCB ready and working just need to know how the weld head would be raised and lowered. I guess the metal shaft that the weld head is screwed to is called the guide rod. The closest pic i could find on the internet is thisThanks in advance
Wild Pcs 559 smd rework station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: twistedxknights
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 27, 2017, 02:48:03 am
content: With the sadness of The radio shack stores closing...I managed to get a smd rework station (wild pcs 559) left over from when they were repairing cell phones. ( see attached photo) I was wondering if Hakko parts would work to replace the missing pieces ( tip encloser) .called the company ( wild pcs) and they reffered me to another company (cell repair tools . com)and all i see is complete replacement irons and not pieces for them.....left a voicemail hopefully they call back tomorrow at a decent time..

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2017, 04:47:55 am
content: That looks like a generic chinese smt soldering/hot air station model "952D" under many makes Saike, Yihua, SunRun etc.The soldering iron is a Hakko copy but there are differences so I don't think Hakko sleeve or tip would work.More about it here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/genuine-vs-fake-hakko-936-ceramic-heater-a1321/

author: twistedxknights
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 28, 2017, 08:01:00 am
content: well talked with the importer this morning and found out that it was made by Bakku (haven't heard of them till now) and is still offered by them as the 601 model now.. they also said hakko replacement irons should work so I will be trying those.

author: twistedxknights
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 24, 2017, 09:23:14 pm
content: Well I'll say that the station is working nicely , heats up quickly and has a auto shut off for the heat gun when you put it back. I did get a tip holder for the handle and it fits. The hakko 900series compatible tips do fit thought a bit lose like other clones. While it may not be a genuine hakko soldering station this alternative clone is a nice step up from a pencil soldering ironWould I recommend buying it brand new? Not really, as they're are cheaper comparable units on the market . Would I recommend buying it used ? If you can get it for a price you're comfortable with. Would I buy another one? If the price was right as there's a mod that I would like to try without sacrificing my working Unit.
beeMaths: Design ruler on Kickstarter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: meinhard
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 26, 2017, 09:41:23 am
content: Hi everyone!I've been following Daves blog for years now and it really improved my electronics knowledge a lot (thanks Dave!).Now I'm using my time till university starts to bring an idea I have into mass production.Because it might be interesting for you, I sent Dave some sample ones couple of week ago. Unfortunately,something went wrong with the shipment and he didn't received my parcel. As there is only little time left I'd like topresent you the campaign via his forum. There are a lot more information about the product and myself on the Kickstarter website.https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/984746429/beemaths-a-well-designed-ruler-that-can-save-your?ref=nav_searchIf you have any tipps, constructive criticism, Kickstarter experience or know potential traps, please let me know. And if you like the project there aresome days left you can get beeMaths for the special Kickstarter price.Thanks,Meinhard

author: ar__systems
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2017, 11:06:55 am
content: If you are going to an exam and you rely on your ruler to know sin() and cos() of basic angles, I can tell you that NOTHING will save your day, nothing.

author: meinhard
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 26, 2017, 11:32:00 am
content: That's absolutely true! But I'd like to address younger people as well with some pieces of information..... and I think it's nice to see that those angles end up in: sqrt(1)/2 ; sqrt(2)/2 ; sqrt(3)/2 ; sqrt(4)/2- Meinhard

author: jeroen79
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2017, 11:13:50 am
content: When I did my exams cheat sheets were forbidden. How would this ruler be different?And what's the bee thing about?

author: meinhard
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 30, 2017, 09:26:02 pm
content: Hi,this might differ in other countries, but often formularies are allowed for exams. Those rulers are just a better and more stylish way to access this information.The "bee thing" is the brand and design. So when you have another look at it you see this warb / hexagon design on all the rulers and packaging.Hope that this answers your questions.- Meinhard

author: mdszy
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 30, 2017, 09:30:07 pm
content: It will certainly be a hard sell to any American audience because of the use of "maths"
[Quick Review]: Eschenbach labo-clip - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Warhawk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2017, 11:30:05 am
content: Hi guys,my eyesight is far from sharp (+4.25 d) therefore I was looking for an affordable solution for work with SMD components. I saw people recommending Eschenbach labo-clip here on the forum however without further details. I decided to give it a try and pulled the trigger before x-mass last year.I originally wanted to buy three different lenses (2x, 2.5x, 3x), pick the most convenient one and return the rest. However, all three have use in my case.- The enclosure is solid and robust. The internal plastic molding which holds lenses is very aliexpress-like and "made in Germany" is hard to believe.- The bracket is relatively good quality, seems to be fragile but it is also very lightweight.- 2x lens is good for general work (e.g. soldering). It offers good working distance without stooping.- 2.5x lens I use the most. I need to lean more towards the object but magnification is great. Great for the 603s or TSSOPs soldering.- 3x lens is great for inspection checks. I do not use it for soldering. The working distance is too small in my case.- neither of lenses have a special coating known from e.g. reading glasses.Overal rating: 4/5.+ lightweight+ comfortable+ portablecons:- relatively expensive- enclosure could be better considering the priceI thought that my two cents could be interesting for some of you. Please leave a comment below if you want to know more details and I'll update the original post.link:https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B005VM2YL0
Setting temperature units from front panel on Weller WRS 1002? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rbm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 02:11:38 am
content: Hi, I have a Weller WRS 1002 rework station (soldering/desoldering). I can set many operating parameters from the front panel such as tip temperature, air volume, setback time, temperature offset, and pump delay. Using the WCB1 or WCB2 programming tool, it is also possible to set additional parameters such as temperature units to display as degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit. I don't have a WCB programming tool so does anyone know if it is possible to change the temperature units from the front panel keyboard? If not, is the communications protocol used by the WCB programming tool documented?
Replacement Soldering Iron/Tips for ZD-937? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: leif
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 12, 2017, 11:00:53 pm
content: Hi,I've just had to find out that after changing connectors on my cheap Hakko soldering iron clone that it won't work with my ZD-937 station because Hakko uses a thermistor to measure tip temperature and my ZD-937 station expects a thermocouple. The tip gets hot but the station signals error because it can't sense the temperature.Can anybody give me a suggestion where to find cheap spare tips or a reasonable priced spare soldering iron? The typical Chinese places are flooded with Hakko-stuff but my ZD-937 with 4-pin connector and 5.9mm diameter heating element seems to be a dead end?Any suggestions?Leif

author: OZ1LQB
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2017, 02:44:10 pm
content: Hi.you can get them in germany.http://komerci.de/shop/product_info.php?products_id=670&cPath=24_40&osCsid=6540b1551fe9a9fe40a2f6f3e3e0aadfhttp://komerci.de/shop/product_info.php?products_id=110&cPath=24_45&osCsid=6540b1551fe9a9fe40a2f6f3e3e0aadfi have bought a lot from him.Claus

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2017, 06:26:13 am
content: This company is in Florida. But for reference:http://www.mpja.com/ZD-929C-Solder-Station/products/460/dirt... cheap...I used this station/iron for quite a few years, myself. Cheap tips, cheap irons, terrible tip selection. It's too bad you can't use the Hakko.I'm not fresh on the difference between a thermocouple and a thermistor sensor, but perhaps you can interject an opamp to tweak the gain? Once you get a replacement iron, anyhow, you can record the voltage at various temps to map it out and then... well, hah, yeah, this is a huge waste of time... one that I did at one point in making a DIY temp controlled station.

author: dimkasta
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2017, 09:04:39 am
content: The usual Chinese suspects should be flooded with spare parts for that series.I have the older versions and I can find tips and parts very easily and cheaply, both locally and on the internet
Mechnical parts - Can someone jog my  memory - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rgammans
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 14, 2017, 12:01:08 pm
content: I'm looking for something like an old-school meccano set - targeted at the more professional/ maker market rather than a toy.I seem to recall Dave getting something like this one a mailbox; it differed from meccano in being based no metric dimensions and having a triangular (or hex) hole pattern rather than a rectangular pattern.I was sure I had saved a link and details , but can't find it now I need it, and I've tried search the wiki and google without finding it; but I'm probably not using good search terms.I think iha da name ending in 'otics' but that really a guess; although quite frankly any similar product would do.

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2017, 12:11:01 pm
content: If it wasn't Actobotics, then it fits your description also.https://www.servocity.com/actobotics

author: rgammans
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 14, 2017, 01:15:58 pm
content: It probably was.Even it it wasn't will do the job.Thanks a lot.
Cheap SMT Station - EBAY - ESD 862D+ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: daveyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2017, 08:38:26 am
content: http://www.ebay.com/itm/191557453776?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITThat one is on ebay a number of times for about $50US. Has anyone tried it and is it worth wild?Dave

author: electricMN
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 11:22:34 pm
content: I got mine from Amazon recently but haven't had a chance to try it yet.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W1AG0FG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1