hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Connector pin and crimping tool for Force Sensitive Resistor sensor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Nikos A.
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2022, 07:02:37 am
content: Hi guys, I purchased some A401 sensors and I want to trim the trace (tail) and reconnect the solder pin connector.https://www.tekscan.com/products-solutions/force-sensors/a401?tab=descriptionI cannot find what type of pin connector this is and what crimping tool is requiredAny help?
connector quiz - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: artag
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2021, 02:34:03 pm
content: Any idea what this is ?It dates from 1958 or earlier, the pins are 0.1" diameter and the outer rows are 0.25" apart. I'm expecting Mcmurdo, Plessey-Painton, or some old name like that. Even a generic style like Jones.I'm looking for a matching socket.
connector range that work board-to-board, wire-to-board and wire-to-wire? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Chendy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2015, 02:57:30 pm
content: Hi,Was wondering if anybody knew a connector range that work board-to-board, wire-to-board and wire-to-wire all at the same time? I haven't found one. I'm guessing some creative thinking will be needed here.- ideally polarised- 1A or more,- small size, say 1.5 to 3.5 mm pitch (or max current 5A as a gauge of style)... stardard 2.54mm dupont/mini-pv size would be great.- 4 poles or morecurrent notes:- 2.54mm bump/polarised dupont/mini-pv housings with bump/polarised nearly work. However wire-to-wire has no proper female housing part, male/female crimp pins are used, which isn't ideal.- I like Molex SL, but no female header for board-to-board. I guess I could probably use standard (unpolarised) 2.54mm pitch headersCheers

author: Ste
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 13, 2015, 11:20:13 pm
content: Check out the Hirose DF11 series and see if that has what you need:https://www.hirose.co.jp/cataloge_hp/en_DF11_20130411.pdf

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2015, 03:12:23 am
content: Also JST do cable mount connectors that mate with XH headers - confusingly the series has a different name (XA? not sure from memory). You should be able to mate an XH male PCB header with a generic 2.5mm female socket

author: Chendy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2015, 02:09:37 pm
content: Thanks guys,@ SteThanks looks interesting.@ MikeYes, the JST XH mate with the JST JQ range. But AFAIK, there is no proper wire-wire XH connector - people seem to be soldering+heatshrinking

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2015, 01:21:00 pm
content: There definitely are some third-party wire-male cons that mate with XH - ISTR seeing some JST ones that weren't advertised as such that would actually work. XA maybe?

author: kony
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2015, 06:42:27 pm
content: http://www.te.com/usa-en/products/connectors/pcb-connectors/wire-to-board-connectors/ffc-fpc-ribbon-connectors/intersection/micro-match.htmlEl cheapo chineese clones availible too.
Connector & Ribbon Cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: tree
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2014, 08:15:00 pm
content: I have the following LCD Module, but I don't have the connector nor the ribbon cable.http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MDLS-16263-C-LV-G-LED01G-FFC/153-1116-ND/1118606It would be greatly appreciated if you guys could help me find the connector and ribbon cable, or at least the name of the connector/cable.Thanks.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2014, 09:21:01 pm
content: Datasheet says 1mm pitch, but it's a bit confusing because it says 1.0 x 15 while the connector has 16 conductors. I think they consider that 1mm as the distance between center of a pad to the center of the next pad so then it makes sense to have only 15 pitches in a 16 conductor ribbon.I guess these should work :http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv316=20&FV=fff40018%2Cfff8020f%2C164006c&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25They're all 1mm pitch, 16 conductors.later edit: for connectors, these are probably the ones you want:http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv88=32&FV=fff40016%2Cfff80421%2C164006c&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

author: tree
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2014, 11:47:37 pm
content: Thanks.
connector search - like a "low profile" dsub? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: max_torque
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2018, 01:09:25 pm
content: I could do with a connector, of about 12 ways, that is similar to a dsub, but lower profile (ie lower overall height from the pcb top surface) It needs to have physical locking (screws, clips etc) and be relatively robust. Something like a single inline dsub. Is there such a thing that doesn't cost the earth (ie no rarefied MIL spec unobtainium options please ;-) )

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2018, 02:11:03 pm
content: Shrunk Delta Ribbon (SDR) connectors? Not sure if you can get bare plugs easily, and cable assemblies tend to be pricey on account of being made from multi twinax, but the connectors themselves otherwise meet your requirements.

author: nfmax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2018, 02:31:22 pm
content: How about a micro-D? A bit pricy, but generally good quality -http://uk.farnell.com/c/connectors/d-sub-connectors-components/micro-d-sub-connectors

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2018, 02:55:03 pm
content: You could take a look at the Harwin Gecko line:https://www.harwin.com/connectors-hardware/gecko/Not cheap. But great stuff.

author: max_torque
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2018, 04:17:35 pm
content: a-ha, "micro D" is the search term i was after! That opens up a lot more options

author: max_torque
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2018, 04:18:23 pm
content: Next question, can i run USB through such a connector? I'd imagine so, they look relatively low loss??

author: Gribo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2018, 06:11:43 pm
content: You can run USB2 (480Mbps) on a micro-D connector, as long as the wires are short, and the D+ and D- are adjacent. I had a design that did just that, however the cable was very short (<30cm).

author: nfmax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2018, 07:11:38 pm
content: You can get sealed micro-D connectors as well. Long ago, I specified them for a data recording device, one specimen at least of which was able to preserve its contents after few days unintended immersion in the North Sea.

author: max_torque
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2018, 12:05:29 pm
content: Searching for connectors is SUCH fun!I particularly like the way that the usual distributors make no effort to cross link any of the parts, so that to actually buy a complete connector set (ie, the plug, contacts, backshells, matching socket, contacts and backshells etc) it take the detective skills and logical reasoning of an actual genius....anyway, it look slike the 3M 102 series micro D is the answer
Do you know this connector make/model? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ricko_uk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 05:19:13 pm
content: Hi,does anybody know what connector type is the one i the attached picture?I have seen in a few times before but don't know the make.model. It is used in some saunas and as you can see from the second picture, in the manual they say it is NEMA 5-20 or 6-20 which I don't think is correct because when I googled it it shoes completely different one (mains type connector).Thank you

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 05:25:18 pm
content: I've always called them "aviation connectors" (which is also not a great name).The industry name might be GX12 or GX16 (which might be two different sizes of the same style of connector).

author: ricko_uk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 05:44:53 pm
content: Thank you

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 08:36:15 pm
content: In a 4-pin version very often used for CB radio microphones.

author: sparkydog
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2023, 04:03:24 pm
content: Yeah, looks like a GX<D>-5. What's the outer diameter of the threaded part of the male connector? That will tell you <D>. I'm guessing, from a very rough visual estimation of the size of your fingers compared to the connector, it's one of 12, 14 or 16. (The '-5' is, of course, the number of pins.)In general, it's helpful to post dimensions for this sort of question. 🙂

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2023, 08:22:54 am
content: They're very generic and popular industrial connectors.I think the usual description is an "M19 circular connector"Check the mounting hole diameter in mm (cups in US).Search for "Mxx" industrial circular connectorseg Cliff ZC Series, Binder 680 (I'm a Binder fan boy, love 'em)

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2023, 04:15:01 pm
content: Might be a DIN type connector? They tend to have circular shapes with that internal bulge for alignment in the shield. But without dimensions on the image it is very hard to be sure.EDIT: sorry, no DIN doesn't seem to have the threading around it. I just saw the image and thought "pin layout looks familiar".
connector type?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: bones
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 09:39:40 pm
content: I need some of these connectors... only I can't figure out what to order.Could someone ID them for me, please?Pitch is 0.1" or maybe 2.5mm.

author: lincoln
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 09:47:48 pm
content: Look for JST connector

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 10:04:46 pm
content: JST is only the name of manufacturer. If it is .1" pitch, than it very likely might be JST-XH type.

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 10:12:16 pm
content: To determine if the pitch is 0.10 inch or 2.5 mm, measure the total span of a large number of pins.

author: bones
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 10:23:53 pm
content: Thank you, all.Yansi, I think JST-XH looks right. Much appreciated. I had already looked at some other JST series.TimFox, most I had was 6 pins... I figured 0.25mm was probably inside my margin of error. :-)

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 10:31:36 pm
content: Well silly me... The JST-XH series are 2.50000mm metric connectors. Haven't done anything with them for a while, sorry.http://www.jst-belgium.be/downloads/series/eXH_1.pdf

author: bones
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 10:59:29 pm
content: Yep, but pretty sure they're the right ones.
Connector/cabling best practices for a wide variety of control / power signals? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: strobot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2013, 08:07:48 pm
content: What are best practices for connecting a wide variety of power / control signals between a main control board and an instrument?The control board has to read inputs from multiple sensors that include the following:I2C0-30 mV differential0-5V analogthermistors (5V voltage divider)TTL quadratureand needs to "actuate" and provide outputs for:5, 12, 24V power (<1A per device)multiple 12V PWM heater (<3A per heater)mulitple 12V PWM pump (<1A)0-10 mA constant current (0-24V)multiple 0-5V analog (control signal)Issues to consider:ease of cable assemblyease of instrument assemblyease of cable replacementability to probe connections during testingcurrent capacity for higher-power componentsconnection reliability (locking / snap-in connectors over friction-fit)noise (having analog inputs side-by-side with switching, high current outputs)Is using IDC ribbon cable with headers such asthisand paralleling multiple conductors where higher current is needed OK?Or should separate connectors with larger gauge wire be dedicated for driving higher powered components?One large ribbon cable connector at the control board that breaks-out to the individual instrument components or independent cables and headers for each subcomponent in the instrument?

author: Christopher
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2013, 08:16:43 pm
content: Twisted pairs, keep analog and digital away from thick-gauge cable. You won't have any problems really..Sleeve Power and Signals separately. Shielded Cat5 is good
Connectors and Wiring for a moving carriage + tool selection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: zzing
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 11, 2019, 01:47:10 am
content: I am about to invest in a connector ecosystem that I need for some of my hobby projects - namely 3d printers for the most part.I like the Molex Microfit 3.0 system specifically. Some products already come with this type of connector (namely e3d parts), and I would like to make an initial part that takes all of the wires from the hot end to a receptacle (43025-1800) and attach it to a plug (43020-1801) and that plug would be the main set of main wires to another receptacle (43025-1800) and finally another plug (43020-1801) would separate into their respective connectors for the existing mainboard.The main set of wires will be moving along an axis quite often. I can contain that in some form of wrapping around the wires, or drag chain.There are 17 wires on the hot end (2 - thermistor, 4 - fans, 4 - motor, 5 - contact sensor, 2 - heater cartridge (max 2 - 3 A)), so I am trying to use the 18 pin connector.These connectors and the associated pins are easy to buy.What I am also trying to find is decent prices on crimping and extraction tools.I found 11030043 and 11030044 are part numbers for extraction tools for microfit 3 - but I am not sure what the difference is. It is about $31 which is excessive for its construction - but willing to get it if there is no alternative. The official crimper is the one that seems a little outrageous. There is also an insertion tool 638120800 that seems exceedingly expensive as well.I can find tools such ashttps://www.amazon.com/Davitu-Contact-Crimping-Micro-Fit-Connector/dp/B07MK9GN4J/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=Crimping+Tool+for+43031+43030&qid=1554946538&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnullThis second toolhttps://www.amazon.com/SN-28B-Crimping-Ratchet-Pliers-Terminals/dp/B07PQ2NSWN/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=Crimping+Tool+for+43031+43030&qid=1554946902&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0says that it works with 43030 which is one of the parts for microfit3.This third toolhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ARWWFY/ref=twister_B0789B5ZW8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1is a variation of the previous one but only mentions 'molex'.I could use some input on the connector family for the application I want to put its use to, which is all 24V, most under 2A, with some no more than 3A current.If there are better tools that are not crazy expensive I could use some knowledge of them. I am quite new to looking beyond normal black connectors.
Connectors for a RS485 network - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: darrenb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2019, 02:35:06 am
content: Hi,I have to put together a RS485 network on of all things a super maxi called InfoTrack.The network is to connect together a PLC, an Arduino and a Raspberry Pi using Modbus. I've got these all talking to each other now I just have to come up with the actual cabling and connectors.As I haven't been able to google anything off the shelf for this the best I have been able to think of so far is to use a 6 terminal terminal block at each connection point and mount this in a jiffy box.The six terminals are 1 to 6, 1 and 2 for the RS485 network coming in or if there is no other connection a 120 ohm resistor. 3 and 4 for the A and B for the device at this point (pi, arduino etc) and 5 and 6 for the RS485 network going out or another resistor.On the other side of the terminal block I'll just wire 1 and 3 together, 2 and 4 together and so on.For cable I am thinking of using 4 core twisted pair telephone cable.This should all work but I can't help thinking there must be a better way. Surely other people have had to create RS485 Modbus networks?

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2019, 02:58:53 am
content: I think RJ45 (i.e. ethernet) cables are commonly used for RS485. Yeah it's overkill, but then you have future expansion possibilities and you also have a cable run which can be used for lots of other purposes.You might plan out your conductor assignments so that you can carry both RS485 and 100-baseT ethernet (which only requires 2 twisted pairs) at the same time.

author: darrenb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2019, 11:15:38 pm
content: I just realised that I also have to provide ground and maybe also a shield connector so my idea of using a 6 terminal terminal block won't work.Looks like I'll have to make up a pcb using either rj45 or rj11 connectors.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 09, 2019, 12:08:32 am
content: I've used several methods over the years - including phoenix 0.15" 6/8W pluggable >> and now using CAT6 shielded PoE pinouts, which I also use for CAN Bus.In serious "factory" electrical connections though, I always go for fiber > fiber converters

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2019, 12:12:49 am
content: The only RS485 network I've had anything to do with used 9pin "D" connectors.A bit clunky, maybe, but they have plenty of spare pins to play with!
Connectors for Breadboard and PCB: GPS module EM-506 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Gerelectronic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2024, 11:24:17 am
content: Hi everyone.I'm trying to create a project with an EM-506 GPS Module.The problem is that I can't understand what types of connector I should use to test the GPS module (which already has a cable with a female connector) on:.- Breadboard,- And subsequently also on PCB;Sorry if it's a trivial question, but even searching on the internet I'm not sure which connectors are suitable.I also tried to consult the datasheet, but unfortunately I can't find the information I need.Additionally, where do you recommend I buy them?I'll add two photos so maybe you can understand better.Thanks a lot to everyone.

author: xvr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2024, 11:54:19 am
content: Looks like JST SH 6 pin series. Take a look for EM-506 sellers, they also often sell a cable with JST socket.Example:https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9123

author: Solder_Junkie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2024, 07:59:43 am
content: You can buy kits of those type of connectors from eBay and Amazon, measure the pin spacing to make sure they are the same. Crimping tiny connectors is challenging though, I have damaged quite a few pins when crimping and now use a mixture of solder and crimp tool...In my GPSDO projects, I have used GPS boards which include a micro USB socket. It makes testing/configuring much easier.SJ

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2024, 08:17:55 am
content: Does the GPS end of that cable unplug?If so, either get a cable to fit and mod it with duPont pins to suit breadboarding, or get something like this:https://www.sparkfun.com/products/18081If not, you need the matching male pin header + one of these:http://www.proto-advantage.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=3800003and a six pin strip of 0.1" SIL pin headers.

author: Gerelectronic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2024, 05:57:26 pm
content: Thank you all. All your kindly advices are so useful!
Connectors for enclosed outdoor project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: slugrustle
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2018, 08:29:46 pm
content: I'm working on an LED controller board for an outdoor sculpture (scultpure built by someone else). The board will be in a metal enclosure, so no direct contact with weather, but condensation is a concern. One thing I have no idea about: what sorts of connectors are reliable in such an application?I need to connect up to 48 LEDs to the board with a connector that fits through a 10.1mm diameter hole.The JST CPT series, which is unsealed, looks good to me:http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=477The JST JWPF series is sealed and also fits:http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=151, but the board side connectors are top entry only. There is a request to be able to stack multiple driver boards.I'm also looking to put an SPI flash chip, like the ISL25LP016D, on a removable card. I was planning to use a 10-pin female IDC connector on the removable card to connect it to the driver board. I like that it's polarized and strong enough to support a small board. Are IDC connectors reliable in outdoor applications like this? Is there a better alternative for board-to-board connections?
Connectors for large 7 segment LED - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rcbuck
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2021, 10:18:32 pm
content: I bought some large 2.3 inch 7 segment displays to build a clock. The connector pins on the back of the displays are 0.020 inch square posts. Does anyone know where to find female connectors that would mate with these pins? I tried the standard 0.025 connectors but I think they are too loose to make a reliable connection. The only other option I see is to solder wires to the pins. Photo of the display back side is attached.

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2021, 10:40:53 pm
content: Why not lay out a PCB, then you don't need to 'wire' anything and you can integrate all the clock stuff on there too...cheers,george.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2021, 02:19:16 pm
content: Quote from: rcbuck on April 08, 2021, 10:18:32 pmYou don’t say specifically, but reading between the lines, you want to connect wires to these, not a board?If so, and the pin pitch is 2.5 or 2.54mm, try either JST XH or Molex KK 254 (or any clone, thereof, like the KF2510 series on eBay/AliExpress). They both use the folded contacts that are quite tolerant of pin size.But clearly these things are designed to go in a PCB, and that is what I’d recommend first and foremost.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2021, 02:43:08 pm
content: why no design a pcb who just fit under the display to standard pinouts ?? bread board compatible etc ...
Connectors for 'PCB to PCB' and 'PCB to Wire' - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: whalphen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2020, 01:47:50 pm
content: I'm looking for low current connectors where PCB mount is available for connecting PCB to PCB and where a crimped wire version of compatible connectors is also available. For example, in some projects I use a 4 pin cable to connect I2C sensor PCBs to a processor PCB. I would also like to have a PCB mount version of a compatible mating connector so I can plug the sensor PCBs directly onto the processor PCB. My preference is for polarized, latching housings. Does anybody have any recommendations for such a connector series?

author: brabus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2020, 02:39:55 pm
content: If space is not an issue, the EDAC 572 series is a good point to start.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2020, 03:31:56 pm
content: Molex SL series, TE MTE series, etc. have all the combinations.Similarly, you can use polarized male and female double-row headers, both of which exist for PCB and wire mount, allowing all combinations.In the Chinesium world, the clones of the Molex KK series (typically sold as KF2510) have male wire terminations that Molex never made, making it a wire-to-wire, board-to-board, and wire-to-board system. Molex makes board-to-board and wire-to-board connectors in the KK series. .Similar with JST XH: the clones have male crimps never present in the original. I think the 2mm pitch JST PH also has clones with male wire crimps. (It’s a pity there’s no PCB version of JST SM, a wire-to-wire system.)

author: whalphen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2020, 04:30:14 pm
content: Thanks. The Molex KK series looks like it will meet my needs.I have some of the KF2510 connectors, but I've never seen a female PCB mount version for board to board use.
Conneting a Drone to Android Application - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: kapilguptansit
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 14, 2016, 04:39:06 pm
content: Hi Everyone I am working on a project to create an Android Application for a Drone. I have started learning android programming from the following websitehttp://www.androidtutorialpoint.com.Can anyone suggest me how to control the drone based upon the signals from the Android Phone, should I use a bluetooth module or anyother module to connect, since the range of bluetooth will be limited.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2016, 05:02:05 pm
content: Google returned quite a few replies to 'control drone from android app'

author: raptor1956
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2016, 06:17:31 pm
content: The are drone control programs for Android and iOS and many of the companies making drone control programs do so for both Android and iOS.Drone makers like DJI will make there own apps but there's also third party aps.Brian

author: kapilguptansit
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 15, 2016, 01:11:50 pm
content: Thanks for your reply , but I am concerned about the module which I can use to connect mobile app and the drone for long range control.

author: raptor1956
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2016, 08:01:28 pm
content: Drone maker DJI has an SDK so that third parties can write aps to interface and control there drones. As I recall there's a two level aspect to it where the first level with very limited control is provided without much haggling, but to get permission to do more complete control you need to enter into a contract with DJI and they can say no if they want to. Long range control is a problem as most places around the world prohibit control beyond your eyesight and I don't mean line-of-sight I mean you need to be able to see the drone with your own unaided eyes at all times.Now, eventually this rule will have to have exceptions for SAR and other activities that will require beyond visual range, but we're not there yet and blazing that trail will be fraught with red tape and COST!Brian
Connfly - Component Manufacturer - Any experiences or suggestions??? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AndersJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2018, 08:30:18 am
content: My currently used PLCC52 SMD sockets are no longer in production.I found the DS1302 series from China based Connfly Electronic Co.Ltd.Does anybody have any experience using Connfly products?Other Connfly comments or experiences?Other PLCC52 SMD suggestions?
Consideration in selecting crystal frequency for microcontroller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: miketan3904
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2020, 10:51:26 am
content: Hi. May I know what are the aspects that we need to consider while selecting the clock frequency for a PIC? Also, I have read it from somewhere that higher clock speed will result in higher power consumption. Does anyone know the reason for this?

author: posatomic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2020, 02:17:47 pm
content: It is basically computation speed and power consumption.The reason for the increased power lies in the way a transistor works:An ideal, fully closed FET has no current going through it, and an ideal, fully opened FET has no voltage drop across it. However, while a FET is being switched on-to-off, or off-to-on, there's a brisk time during which there's both a voltage drop, and a current flowing through the FET at the same time. This "transition" is what is responsible for power consumption in CPUs.Now obviously, the more transitions happen per second, the more power the consumes. So basically, power consumption goes up linearly with clock speed.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2020, 02:59:30 pm
content: Depends a bit on how it will be used. I generally use 16 MHz or 32 MHz for the enhanced mid-range PIC's. Power consumption is not an issue, and those are accurate enough for rough time keeping and provide acceptable error with serial communications and typical baud rates.Example: Awhile back, I had an LCD character display that came with an MCU (PIC16F88) to allow serial communication. For some reason, the manufacturer chose 10 MHz. That did not match well for high baud rates with another MCU at 16 MHz, so I changed the LCD MCU to a PIC16F1827 at 16MHz to get better matches (i.e., the errors were the same direction and magnitude).
Considerations with floating output SMPS? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: GoneTomorrow
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 01:36:17 am
content: I'm currently designing/building a pump controller for a solar pool heating system. I'm using a well-designed 5V 1A SMPS that I found in my parts bins (itdidhave CapXon caps, which I have replaced with Rubycon, however). The PSU is class 2, so the output is not earth referenced, and because of the Y-caps between the primary and seconday, it develops about a 95V AC potential to earth, at a current of about 130uA.Do I need to make any special considerations for this? My plan is to install the PSU inside a die-cast aluminium box (for heatsinking of the SSR), along with the microprocessor board and the SSR. The only ins/outs from the die-cast box will be mains in, switched mains out, and a DS18B20 temp sensor(s). My understanding is that I could tie the negative DC output to earth, at the expense of EMI, but do I need to?

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 01:39:54 am
content: You could tie the output to ground through say a 1meg resistor, which should deal with the float voltage without injecting noise.
Consolidation of Multiple Power Supplies to Single One - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: The13thParish
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2021, 08:32:38 pm
content: Dear all,I'm working on a project which requires 18 V, 6-12 V (the exact voltage in this range doesn't matter) and 5 V for a microcontroller. For prototyping purposes, I've been using separate supplies but this is just lazy and looks a mess. I understand that shifting 3.3 V to 5 V (and vice versa) is easy using a level shifter, although is this technique more general and hence applicable to my problem?I could use a multi-branched voltage divider however I've never quite understood what the effect of the high-frequency microcontroller switching would be on the other branches of the divider and all the filtration that I would need to make that work.All the best,Ryan
Constant current circuit for 230V AC @ 100mA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 07, 2016, 11:27:41 am
content: Well...I have here an old vacuum tube radio which uses some NTCs for limiting the AC current for heating the U-type tubes as well as feeding two light bulbs in series...Now that those components aren't available anymore...is there a cheap way to limit the current to 100mA with a simple circuit?

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2016, 12:03:31 pm
content: No way can it use NTC thermistors, except possibly as inrush limiters. It must have used PTC thermistors. Most electronic current limiting solutions are highly undesirable here because they introduce severe waveform distortion resulting in harmonics in the audio frequency range that capacitively couple from the heaters to the cathodes.Without knowing the rated voltage of the lamps and valves used, its impossible to calculate a suitable dropper. You could try powering up the heater chain on a Variac, bringing it slowly up to 100mA then measuring the voltage, or you could add up the filament voltages of all the valves and lamps. If you see any filaments in the chain that aren't 100mA, either they have another or a resistor in parallel so be careful.
constant current circuit for LED with 12-24v inputs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: drakejest
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2021, 07:07:56 pm
content: So i was looking for a simple constant current circuit for my LED indicator i would like to power the LED to somewhere around 7mA with a voltage from 12-24v but when i tried to simulate the circuit i could not make the current constant across different voltagehttps://pasteboard.co/K6Lif8q.pngam i doing something wrong?

author: John B
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2021, 09:45:03 pm
content: When you bias the base of the transistor using a resistor divider, the voltage at the base will vary with the applied voltage, therefore the current that is sunk will also vary. You want to maintain a constant voltage at the base, so try replacing the lower resistor on the base with a reverse biased zener. Better still, replace the whole circuit with a current sink IC or a linear LED driver to save on parts, space and time.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2021, 10:05:48 pm
content: I use the second circuit (Restricting LED Current using Transistors) here:https://www.homemade-circuits.com/universal-high-watt-led-current-limiter/

author: SmallCog
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2021, 10:18:47 pm
content: You may find this an interesting readhttps://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/need-a-current-regulator-use-a-voltage-regulator/

author: drakejest
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2021, 10:32:38 pm
content: Quote from: John B on June 15, 2021, 09:45:03 pm"LED DRIVER" is the keyword, thank you for that very much i was able to find suitable components .I was actually looking for pre made IC of that but i was using "constant current source" as a keyword thus i was getting expensive chips which are too pricy for me for just indicator leds.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2021, 03:33:34 am
content: You can build the circuit I referenced in a 5 by 4 section of a breadboard or perfboard. It just needs two resistors and a couple of 2N2222 transistors. It will hold the current fairly steady over a wide range of input voltages (2.2mA change over a range of 12 volts).
Constant current load design problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: McMonster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2011, 02:12:33 am
content: Inspired by Dave's constant current dummy load video (#102) I've decided to build my own, but beefier and with some more features (actually something like the original battery capacity logger).I started from the basic circuit with a pot, opamp, logic level MOSFET and resistor on a breadboard (MOSFET on a heatsink, connected to the rest of the circuit using alligator clips cables, no high currents through the breadboard), just like on the video and here's where the strange thing happens. I've hooked this up to my bench power supply and powered the opamp from batteries, but I could only get up to about 1 amp from my PSU (up to 1.4 A closer to 30 V). Checking the voltages revealed that since the opamp is LM358 it could only go up to just over 3 V at the output from this battery pack to drive the gate of my IRLZ44N pass transistor. But it doesn't make sense, since the datasheet says at 3 V gate voltage I should get much higher drain current, around 20 amps.I'm obviously missing something important here, but can you tell me what is it?

author: vtl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2011, 02:43:24 am
content: What is the value of your shunt resistor? There will be a voltage drop between the gate and source so you'll need a lot more than 3V at the gate for higher currents.If you want to have higher currents but cant have such a high gate voltage youll need to lower the value of your current shunt. If you used a 0.1ohm resistor then you'll be able to get 1A from just 0.1V across the resistor.Once you've fixed that, the next step is to watch out for oscillations in the opamp, this circuit seems to be prone to it.

author: McMonster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2011, 02:57:59 am
content: Shunt is already a 0.1 Ohm 5 Watt resistor.

author: vtl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2011, 03:22:12 am
content: Luckily I had the simulation on hand. It shows that youll need to have a gate voltage of 4.8v to get 0.3A across the shunt (this is to get 3A). I've attached the LTpsice simulation if you feel like playing with it. You'll need to have a higher supply voltage for the opamp. You can always power the opamp from the load you are testing.

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2011, 03:59:35 am
content: Quote from: vtl on December 23, 2011, 03:22:12 amTry it with a model from IR, the model in LTSpice is obviously junk.For the OP the MOSFET might be honking (oscillating).

author: McMonster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2011, 04:16:19 am
content: Quote from: vtl on December 23, 2011, 03:22:12 amYou're right, I was just probing everything referencing to ground, I forgot about the voltage across the shunt resistor. Vgs was 2 V, this was barely an amp drain current and it's consistent with datasheet. I'll power it from a higher voltage when finished, I just hooked it all up to check if it's working at all and test the heatsink.Thanks for help.
Constant current load for LiPo capacity testing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: reyntjensm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 05:20:34 pm
content: I'm trying to measure the capacity of some LiPo cells (no specs available for these cells). My idea is to make a constant current load and measure the time for the cell to discharge from 4.2V to 3.2V. I made a constant current load (https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Constant-current-load/) and this is working fine. But only for a fixed voltage. So for instance the current is constant at 4.2V, as soon as i lower the voltage. The current stays constant but not all the way down to 3.2V. The current is constant only from 4.2V to around 3.6V. What am i doing wrong? How can i change the schematic so the current draw stays constant with a battery voltage between 4.2V and 3.2V? Attached you can find my schematic.

author: reyntjensm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 09:14:33 pm
content: Thank you for your feedback.I don't really understand the relation between the supply voltage for the opamp and the current sense resistor? I have already tried different mosfet's and resistor configuration. The result doesn't improveEDIT:I removed everything from the breadboard and started over again. Now it's working fine. A bad breadboard jumper... Another reason to throw those breadboards in the dumpster. I can draw a constant current for a large range of voltages.What is the limiting factor in this circuit? The voltage across the sense resistor can't be higher than half the opamp supply voltage?

author: Vovk_Z
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 07:52:28 pm
content: Current shunt resistance is too high. Use up to order less value. E.g. something between 0.1 .. 0.5 R. (It depends on a needed current and minimal battery voltage).

author: Hiemal
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2021, 05:56:02 am
content: As others stated, the shunt voltage is too high; think of it in terms of ohms law.You want most of your power to be dissipated in your pass element, aka, your FET.The lower the shunt voltage, the less power is dissipated in the resistor. But, it comes with a tradeoff, you don't want it to be TOO small otherwise it'll be too small of a voltage for your op amp to handle properly.For a small constant current load, a 1 ohm resistor would probably work alright. If you're trying to measure capacity, I would keep the discharge current to around 500 mA, to 1 amp, depending on the rough size of the cell (cells will have markedly lower capacity the higher the current draw is)So, to get 500 mA, or 0.5 A, you'd use ohms law. You know your shunt resistor is 1 ohm, and you want 0.5 amps. V = I * R.You'd need a reference voltage of 0.5v. You'll also dissipate about 250 mW in your resistor.To make it even more accurate, I'd also use a voltage reference instead of just dividing off of your supply voltage. It'll be more reliable that way.
Constant Current Load Project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: craftycoder
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2012, 04:05:24 pm
content: Video of a constant current load project I've recently completed.

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2012, 10:20:42 pm
content: Bad link. You just need to paste the YouTube URL like so:

author: craftycoder
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2012, 02:14:50 am
content: It mangled the URL for me. It added an extra http:// in front of it for some reason. I was able to reproduce it a bunch of times. A too clever piece of software.Thanks BTW
no text - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: daywalkerdha
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2013, 06:54:08 pm
content: no text

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2013, 07:06:01 pm
content: Quote from: daywalkerdha on May 07, 2013, 06:54:08 pmMeasured how? The thing is probably oscillating.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2013, 07:10:27 pm
content: Yep. With three big MOSFETs on the output (and nothing to enforce current sharing between them, I might add), zero feedback compensation, and a GBW product of 2.5 MHz, I promise it will oscillate. If it's not oscillating yet, you just haven't found its unstable point.Quote from: daywalkerdha on May 07, 2013, 07:09:07 pmPut a resistor between pin 2 and the sense resistors, then a capacitor directly between the output and pin 2. Experiment with values (a good starting point is 1k and 100pF).

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2013, 07:14:48 pm
content: If you don't have an oscilloscope, one rough way to check if it's oscillating is to use a capacitor to couple apeak detector(use a fast diode like 1N4148) to the feedback path. Put a DC voltmeter on the output and it should measure zero when the circuit is stable. Use a small output capacitor (100nF-ish), or it can pick up charge at the moment you connect it to the circuit and take a long time to dissipate, making you think there is an oscillation.Slow oscillations can be detected with an AC voltmeter directly on the feedback path, but many DMMs have a quite low bandwidth. (This is one thing I like my old vacuum tube voltmeter for - bandwidth well into the MHz range!)

author: Thor-Arne
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2013, 09:56:16 pm
content: If you're doing a lot of changes you should consider having some damping on the feedback and load balancing OpAmps for each MOSFET.My versionhas functioned perfectly since I added the caps.I still haven't tried it to it's extremes, to about 20V/2A, but no oscillation so far.

author: Harvs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2013, 04:12:35 am
content: Quote from: daywalkerdha on May 07, 2013, 07:20:32 pmc4757p gave you the correct advice about compensating the feedback loop. If you just put a cap directly across the output it increases your problems, because the oscillations are caused by the opamp driving the gate capacitance of the mosfet. Albeit you may not immediately see the oscillations anymore because the op-amp output stage is saturating trying to drive the large capacitance.
Constant current pulse generator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: slashguitar
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2013, 04:05:21 pm
content: Hi,I decided to build a small ESR meter similar to Bob Parkers(full documentation herehttp://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/k7214.pdf)I don't understand how the constant current pulses are generated ( Q3-R6 ,Q4-R8 and Q5-R10 on the top left of the schematic ) .The way I see it the current through the DUT will be (5V-Vcesat)/(R6+ Rdut) so it varies with Vcesat and load resistance....please correct me if I'm wrongShould I use opamps for the constant current pulses?Thanks

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2013, 12:47:24 am
content: Hi,There is no real current sources in the design.However, the circuit approximates to a current source.One of the transistors is driven into saturation, there is very small Collector - Emitter voltage. There is also a very small voltage across the capacitor under test.So the voltage across the resistor is approximately equal to the supply voltage. We have approximately constant voltage across the resistor, therefore approximately constant current.Jay_Diddy_B
Constant current source charging capacitor does not work in LTspice - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: MacIntoshCZ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2022, 08:51:19 am
content: What have i missed? It works when capacitor is bypassed.

author: penfold
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2022, 09:17:47 am
content: Spice calculates a DC operating point before it commences the transient analysis so that it has an initial condition to start from.You stop that by enabling "start external DC voltages at zero" in the simulation dialogue. Starting external DC voltages at zero would give the impression that all sources were switched on at time=0.A "better" way might be to change V2 to be a pulse that has a very long duration but a delay to its start, or change from a "V" to a "BV" (arbitrary behavioral voltage source) where you can set an if statement like "if(time>1m,1,0)" for example. That way, the opamp can stabilise as if it had been switched on for a long time with zero-volt input and you can see a more real view of what happens when you apply a signal to the input via V2.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2022, 09:29:00 am
content: Put: .IC V(n005)=0 on your sheet.