hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
painting 3d printed electronics subassemblies ? non stick - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2020, 05:29:58 am
content: So I have made a few brackets and such with a 3d printer. Unlike my aluminum or metal brackets, which I have had no problems with painting, the resin prints are doing strange things. I spray on a primer and then a top coat after cleaning and I am getting the top coat not sticking to the primer. I just had a entire face of a electronics box peel off, leaving black primer under neath. From experience with metal, if primer sticks, then the top coat should stick super well to it.The prints are made with resin.Is the primer being depleted some how by the plastic (molecular sieve) or is there some kind of electrostatic behavior or something else going on behind the scenes making my life difficult? It seems like the primer is doing something funny when it interacts with the dielectric substrate?I never saw paint not stick to the primer before, this is with rustoleum stuff. I also leave my prints to post cure in the sunlight or use a strong UV light to cure them. I painted plenty of galvinized steel, aluminum and bare steel (usually after flame bending) and there were no problems remotely similar to this. The only problem I ever had with paint was applying too much. I just watched chrome paint sprayed in a perfect layer bead up on top of primer after a few minutes. In one of my 2 day old prints I had a big flake of red paint come off leaving primed black surface underneath. It behaves as if the paint was water and suddenly rain-x appeared underneath. Why is the primer becoming phobic towards nonpolars?I thought maybe to use epoxy paint as a primer with these resin prints (clear resin). I would prefer it to be chrome painted so it reflects heat better and makes the component stronger. I had similar things happen (tried nickel and titanium 'premium' paints over automotive primer). I also never had problems with fiberglass or wood like this.Could it be some kind of reaction with the primer that requires metal (like threadlocker)?
extreme dc switch derating? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2020, 07:30:03 am
content: So I know that normally you need severe derating to use a AC switch in a DC application.But, I am interested in switching 100VDC but with only a maximum current of say 2mA, fused by a very low fuse.I like how small the 5A 125VAC switches are. Is this ok, since its 1500 times derated with a fast blow fuse? It will likely feed a dampened RLC in front of a linear regulator, so minimal inrush. I would design the circuit that it connects to by testing the inrush to make sure its ok for the fuse.Otherwise, it looks like the only small affordable option is a rotary knob switch, not a traditional toggle switch.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2020, 08:24:39 am
content: this price is okhttps://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/littelfuse-inc/0315-010MXP/778346oh no, 1000 qty..i think startup will be more stablewell thats strange, i swore littlefuse sold a 10mA picofuse, which I have one of in a circuit. Perhaps it was 62mA. I guess I should test it at 20mA... maybe discontinued partunder 10mA it gets a little pricey,https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/littelfuse-inc/0272-005V/553213

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2020, 12:17:31 pm
content: Inrush current rating (contacts closing) shouldn't be significantly different from the AC rating. The Problem with DC vs AC comes on contact opening, there there is no zero crossing on DC to interrupt an arc. For DC operation to be a problem, the current needs to be high enough to sustain anarcdischarge. I doubt you'd have any problem at the low mA level.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2020, 02:24:05 pm
content: yea that makes sense since its much less then a cycle
Cooling and drying compressed air, condenser or evaporator ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2020, 07:18:56 am
content: Just bought my self cheap 1 HP oil less air compressor, works fine. Its just I live in a very humid place, sometimes the air humidity can reached up to >90% with average of 70-80%. After running just for 3 days just for one or two hours each, when draining the tank, the water accumulated was almost a glass.I've been reading, watching at the net, all those air drying techniques, from running copper pipes on the wall on the tank output, up to industrial grade air dryer, and all I want is just to reduce as much as possible the water relatively cheaply. Not overly ambitious, even it can reduce <50% , I will be happy.Thinking of using car's air condition evaporator or condenser unit + a blowing fan, as the sizes close to what I want, and to cool down the hot air from the compressor outlet, and add a cheap water trap BEFORE getting into the tank. The current setup already has the water trap on the tank output.Locally the evaporator or condenser are relatively cheap, maybe just 20 to 30 bucks, the ones with aluminium pipes though, not copper as they're so expensive.Question is, which is more suitable to use ? Evaporator ? As it has bigger pipes internally, compared to condenser, which has many smaller pipes which I worry the contaminants will eventually clog it.Or any idea or suggestion ? Or maybe share your experiences ?

author: ace1903
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2020, 11:55:35 am
content: It is not clear what you want to achieve. Water is in the air and will be also in the compressed air.In the thank compressed air cools and water goes to liquid state and flows to the bottom of the thank.If you add coil for cooling, water will condense in the coil and it will be difficult to remove from there.In the industrial systems heat exchanger with refrigerant is used and water intensively is condensed and frozen.On regular intervals heat exchanger is heated and water with valves is drained out.Maybe you can think something similar with Peltier elements and arduino but proper sizing will be difficult.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2020, 12:07:44 pm
content: Quote from: ace1903 on October 20, 2020, 11:55:35 amWell, I will let you to get the idea from these videos.Of course these compressors are way-way bigger than mine, and regarding the condenser or evaporator that I plan to, that is from the car's aircon, is usually smaller compared to ones in the videos.
obsolete JBC heater element dead... replace or adapt newer design ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: vehiculeselectriques
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 01:44:29 am
content: Hi,i have a JBC RP5100 soldering/desoldering station (2001)The soldering pen heating element work but time to time has a thermocouple bad contact making the station go to error 3(thermocouple problem)I did not succed solving it so i need a replacement.Problem these are obsolete parts (JBC-0393830 24V50W)maybe i can adapt a newer model asthis one?thanks for your advisePhil

author: vehiculeselectriques
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2015, 03:48:19 pm
content: seems no one is inspired or has made such mod...I need it so i ordered a replacement for 50€ in a spanish webshop.regards,Phil

author: r0d3z1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2018, 11:08:19 am
content: have you managed to fix you solder station ? Could you give me the address of the spanish shop ?I have a similar problemhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/jbc-6040-hot-air-station-heating-element-repair/msg1927675/#msg1927675

author: vehiculeselectriques
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2018, 11:36:16 am
content: i explained how i solved my problem.it's not the same element than your hot air station.

author: dottecu
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 21, 2020, 11:21:40 am
content: hello friend, I have the same problem as you, have you adapted this article (https://www.weidinger.eu/de/p/wl13283)? did you have to make any changes to the pin outs or is it 100% compatible?regard alex

author: vehiculeselectriques
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2020, 02:07:48 pm
content: Hello,I didn't succeded to make it work and have been lasy to try again as i have other station
question about mcp73831 lipo charging boards - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: manabana9
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 11, 2020, 04:41:06 pm
content: so i was wondering if the micro lipo or the powerboost boards from adafruit are viable ways to charge and protect lipo batteries, as they only have one chip on them, the mcp73831. is this good enough, or should i just stick to the generic tp4056 boards i can get off ebay.I AM A NEWBIE AND ALSO 17 YEARS OLD SO IT IS EXTREMELY POSSIBLE IHAVE NO IDEA WHAT I AM SAYING AND AM A MASSIVE IDIOT

author: reboots
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2020, 05:25:25 pm
content: Note that the MCP73831 only supports 500mA charge current, while the TP4056 supports up to 1000mA. That means the TP4056 will charge faster, but you may need a thermistor output from the battery to prevent overheating. See the manufacturers' datasheets for more information:MCP73831:https://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/en024903TP4056:https://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/datasheets/Prototyping/TP4056.pdfNeither chip by itself supports certain Li-Poly battery safety functions, such as discharge current limiting or undervoltage. Either would work fine to charge a Li-Poly cell with a built-in protection PCB.I don't see an Adafruit charger with battery protection, but some of the TP4056 chargers on eBay do have an additional protection circuit (like the linked example). Those might be a better choice for a bare cell with no built-in protection.https://www.ebay.com/itm/223588562034Your disclaimer isn't needed. Your question was reasonable and comprehensible.
Component removal advise (equipment) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: banedon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2020, 05:29:52 pm
content: (This might belong in the newbies section, but as it's related to tools I've put it here. Mods please feel free to move it if it's in the wrong place)Hi guysOccaisonally I need to desolder components from various "dead" PCBs and I'm finding it difficult on occaison using my soldering iron (Wellewer 80w WSD81i) and desolder station (Puctec ZD-985) without roasting the component to death. This is mostly with ICs and components which are attached to ground or power planes.Looking around, the solution seems to be (and correct me if I'm wrong) to use a hot air gun and am wondering what I should be aiming for model-wise and also if anyone has any advice on basic do's and don'ts? (i.e. recommended nozzles, temps to go to, how long for on average, etc.).Any advice gratefully received

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2020, 10:11:17 pm
content: Hot air gun is going to cook components just as bad if not worse than using what you currently have.A pre-heater is best. It raises the temperature of the whole board to the set point temperature, this is usually just below the solder melting temperature. Then use the hot air gun on the component to be desoldered.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2020, 11:20:37 pm
content: I am still on a manual sucker and I have not had too many terrible problems yet with repairsHave you tried adding some solder to difficult joints, along with flux, prior to using the sucker? I overfill the joints with leaded solder prior. Then the manual tool works no problems with most things
Casio laser/LED projector teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2020, 04:10:52 pm
content: Unusual laser+LED light source instead of a discharge lamp :https://youtu.be/6gzdpmxD1Fw

author: I wanted a rude username
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2020, 10:33:25 pm
content: That power ...
Bakon 938 - manual wanted / help unlocking - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ralphrmartin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2020, 06:07:17 pm
content: I've acquired a Bakon 938 soldering station, but there is no manual with it. There seems to be some lock preventing the temperature from being changed. If anyone can tell me how to unset the lock, or better still, send me a copy of the manual, I'd be grateful!In case it works like other models - it has 4 buttons marked up/down */#Thanks. Ralph
Andonstar AD407 - stand extension? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: aroby
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2020, 05:32:04 pm
content: I recently bought one of microscopes and it is excellent. With the supplied stand, the magnification is too high and I'd like to get the camera higher off the bench. I haven't been able to find the rack and pinion mount they use - has anyone else looked at this and found a source for a longer stand?

author: rgrEngage
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 26, 2020, 09:02:17 pm
content: I also recently purchased one, and quite like it. I'm with you though, the stand is insufficient. I would like to find an articulating arm for it. I have searched all over Amazon but haven't found anything yet. Will post back if I find something. Good luck!
Fibreglass-tipped pencil - any that aren't plastic? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: FrankE
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2020, 02:21:10 am
content: I've had several fibreglass cleaning pencils I bought at electronic component sites.. They were all plastic and failed at the thread between the handle and tip or the plastic handle has split.I've been looking online electronics, jewellers stores, auction sites for one that is more robust.Anyone have a source?It's for various stuff other than electronics.

author: ChuckDarwin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2020, 03:45:22 am
content: I don't beat on them, not all metal body, but these survived field use just fine: Exceltahttps://www.excelta.com/scratch-brushes-262If you find ones from Allied International USA (under random brands at a surplus mart, see back of card), the fiber head is very solidly bonded together which makes agressive use of the pen easier.

author: electrolust
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 25, 2020, 10:11:50 pm
content: if the fiberglass part completely comes out of the pencil, you could use a pin vise.EDIT: I see now how the refills come. There's a ferrule that holds all the fibers together, and the diameter of that is of course larger than the diameter of the strands. The holder grips that ferrule and you twist it like a lead pencil. You'd need a short pin vise that has a completely thru bore. The first hit on amazon (and the #1 seller in category) is more like a precision screwdriver, with a rotating cap on top. That makes sense for the intended use. All the china pin vises seem to be of that form factor.I happen to have a set of starrett pin vises for machine work. Taking a look, I see that it does have a thru bore, so it would work for this application. Starrett is a precision toolmaker, parts made in USA. $$$

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2020, 04:31:05 pm
content: Quote from: FrankE on September 20, 2020, 02:21:10 amWell, much fatter ones exist in metal:https://www.eraser.com/products/component-preparation-equipment/ekit-metal-body-brush-kit/
LONOVE Soldering Iron Station Kit – 60W Solder Station what tips does tthis take - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: psxpetey1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2020, 10:23:42 pm
content: bought one of these recently on amazon but I need more tips, it doesnt say on the amazon page wonder if any of you awesome gear head knows ps this is a fairly decent iron!

author: I wanted a rude username
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2020, 11:39:02 pm
content: Looks like Hakko style ... same as most Chinese soldering stations.Useful tip to consider:T-3CF
Solder fume extractor advice - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: buvikingen
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2020, 06:41:07 am
content: Hi Eevblog forumI want to upgrade my solder fume extractor since it does a poor job.I resently saw Daves mail video and he made a small test on this one:KOTTO Soldering Fume Extractorhttps://amzn.to/32TlzKmWhere it seems like the HEPA filter isn't included but can be bought on the side.I am curius if you think this would be good enough as your main soldering fume extractor or I should spent some more money and get Kingsom KS-180 HEPA shown in one of Dave's other videos (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Bff...). However I am not able to find any replacement filters for this model anywhere

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 09:57:24 pm
content: Mentioned but must have been in another thread, how many hours of soldering? <2hrs per week I would consider using this device, >2hrs per week no. If it doesn't include HEPA filter, then straight up no.If you have the ability to vent outside then only a fan and dryer vent are required, which is cheap. There are a few fume extractor discussions here if you search.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-1338-mailbag/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-1305-hepa-solder-fume-extractor/

author: Zeyneb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2020, 11:08:14 pm
content: I like to use my 3M Half-Face Respirator for this task. So much smaller than a fume extractor unit.
General question for iron tips - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: stefan_trekkie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2020, 03:19:10 pm
content: Hello, I am sorry for the newbie question but...I am new to the 'more expensive' stuffs. I've got second hand Weller station but it is with too big and wide tip. My posting is about generalization on Iron tips .. Weller WECP Temtronic is the model that i've got. It has temp control but after taking off the tip .. It's seams to be a magnastat type tip No7 upfront. Can it work correctly that way with that tip? On one side there is no problem with heating the tip after crossing the curie temp. but it is with worse heat exchange aria do to the missing hole that need to contacts with the pin/needle in the iron holder. .. After googling the station it seams to be with hollow tip in original. (pics bellow from google, the 3rt one is magnestat type like mine)Second question - Can someone tell/post something like catalog with Weller different types of tips and what to look for when buying new ones? It seams to be flat back end, short ones with magnestat adapters as well as hollow and magnestats

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2020, 02:46:17 am
content: That will work if the Magnestat tip fits but the temperature control will not be very good. The center ceramic post holds a thermocouple for measuring the tip temperature and is part of the closed loop temperature control; it is suppose to fit inside the hole going into the tip rather than being held behind it.

author: stefan_trekkie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2020, 11:06:41 am
content: It took over a month in the current 'bug' situation but i manage to get two original tips with a hole in the back for my model station.I gave away my old DIY 12v station on friend that works as car mechanic and sometimes is in need for some soldering on the vehicles
JBC C245 Catridges Recommendations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: XgN
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 26, 2020, 10:58:43 am
content: Hi all!Decided to go more advanced with JBC CD-2BQE soldering iron station with T245 handle (so far using old ZD station). The one question is left for me unclear in this setup: which tips/catridges to choose. Looking here for advice! Would like to choose 3 pcs of catriges to start from as budget is quite short now. I do mainly audio equipment repair: general soldering (THT + SMT) and also a lot of MCUs, DSPs, NANDs rework (QFP, TSSOP, BGA etc.).Thanks in advance.
Metcal  STSS-002 Model RFG30 teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kawal
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2020, 06:22:50 pm
content: Recently acquired Metcal RFG50 and wanted to show the internals .This is a soldering power supply that outputs 13.56MHz at variable amplitude depending on the need of the iron.The irons use Curie temperature to adjust the amount of power needed to maintain a certain temperature.The tips are designed for a certain temperature and heat via currents flowing trough a magnetic material .There is an expired patent for the tech that explains the working of such a system (I think there is an issue with the RF detector schematic on the patent )https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/39/cd/50/c1b04c0027b57e/US4626767.pdfThe scope picture shows the output without load.The system uses logic gates and Crystal to create 13.56Mhz signal that is fed into as 2 stage class C amplifier. Output is filtered to reduce harmonics. Measured 2nd harmonic without load is -23dbm down from fundamental.The power of the system is internally adjusted based on amount of reflected HF signal back from the iron. The closer the iron is at Curie temperature the more reflected power there is. To prevent damage to internal components the power supply adjusts voltage being supplied to the Class C amplifier depending on how much reflected RF there is.The power switch is on the primary side unlike on the later MX500 stations.https://photos.app.goo.gl/9iPNqvWqWN8GobUt9
eakins microscope issue. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cpposteve
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2020, 05:37:02 pm
content: Hi all.im hoping someone has had the same issue and has also got a fix. i have set up the focussing on the head its self so stays in focus through out the whole focul range, thats not the issue, the issue is the camera will not focus, its like it needs to be 10mm higher or something. the camera is the aparent 37mp varient, with the decent 0,5x connector as pictured. is there a simple fix for this?also is there software online anywhere for these cameras? as it comes with a disc but i dont have a disc reader on my computer,cheers allsteve

author: Zorc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2020, 10:30:00 am
content: Check this:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4562558

author: jaaa1976
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2020, 01:56:00 pm
content: I think this C-CS Mount Lens Adapter Ring Extension Tube for CCTV Security Camera (20mm) will be good ,, but need check size properly fitment .I sold this Eakins microscope and when i lift 20mm camera up..i have same picture on microscope and monitor.https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0796M8TJD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=A39ZTJCXFJZSMZ&psc=1
Can anyone recommend a battery indicator module? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: vgamesx1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 15, 2020, 01:31:25 pm
content: I'm putting together a mild sized battery pack and I'd kinda like to have an indicator to have at least a vague idea of how the pack is doing, I had a quick look at a few options, but I was hoping to find something cheap that will calculate capacity rather just looking at voltage like most of the ~$4 modules do, any ideas or are those the only option aside from spending over $10 on something better?About the pack, I have 30 4.4Ah lithium cells charged via a small 30W solar panel and I've not fully decided on 3s or 4s but I'm leaning towards 4s and I plan on eventually getting another panel and upgrading to a 24v system.
Metcal bvx-201 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cpposteve
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 04:58:03 pm
content: Hi all. I have picked up a brand new metcal bvx-201 and although it’s great. I would really like to be able to adjust the speed of the fan. Has anyone had any success with doing this? Opening it up reveals a switch mode psu and a separate motor drive board and is running a nice what looks to be brushless motor but could be wrong.Any ideas would be great.Steve
open source project with two channels - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cobramostar
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2020, 11:02:44 pm
content: I wonder if there is an open source project with two channels for ironexample to work simultaneously JBC iron 1 x C245 and 1 x C210I honestly prefer to solder at the same time with two ironsthan to use hot airthat would be great as a JBC to put off ironif not usedin contact with GND

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2020, 11:15:35 pm
content: I'm curious what you're expecting to achieve with two soldering irons? If the device only has two pins (e.g. resistor, capacitor), there's already a much more streamlined way of achieving what you want:For anything with more than 2 pins, you're still going to have to do drag soldering or something vaguely similar, in which case the idea that a second iron would be greatly helpful seems questionable.

author: cobramostar
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 05:07:35 pm
content: this is Nano or mikro JBC iron ? ? ?but with two chanel would great

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 06:00:49 pm
content: Quote from: cobramostar on September 12, 2020, 05:07:35 pmIt's thermal tweezers... Look at JBC site..

author: cobramostar
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 09:16:25 pm
content: hvala siniša
JBC nano tools tip life? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lukego
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2020, 10:13:26 am
content: How long do tips on JBC nano tools (https://www.jbctools.com/nase-nano-rework-product-929.html) last? Is it half as long as normal JBC tips? If you run them at 280C instead of 350C will that double the life? If you drown 'em in Amtech tacky flux ("Rossmann style") will that have much impact one way or the other?I'm curious because I've recently started using one of these stations, still on my first tips, and I've heard that some other people are measuring tip lifetime in "weeks" which makes them sound pretty darned delicate (but I dunno, maybe they are running them day at night repairing corroded lead-free boards and that's why their tips are dying so fast.)

author: theatrus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2020, 05:20:39 am
content: My C115 cartridges are no worse or better than my C215 cartridges. They're also on par with my Metcal STTC.Clean them well, don't go scraping or smash them into things, and they'll be fine. Replacing $40 cartridges is no fun of course.
TS100 Soldering Iron - Earthing the tip - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bagunceiro
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 10, 2020, 07:12:53 pm
content: After all the positive reviews for it I thought I'd better get myself a TS100. Up to now it all seems very good.There's one small exception to this and I could use some advice. The PSU I am using is a universal laptop job set to 20V and seems to be nice and stable. But it's not earthed, and there is AC leakage onto the tip of the iron at 120V (more or less the supply here). So I earthed it, using a wire from the earth connector on the iron to the earth pin on the mains plug. When I do that the iron's temperature (as measured by itself) goes haywire, swinging wildly from 200ishºC to nearly 400. I doubt it is actually doing that as the change is far too rapid so I think the earthing is screwing up the thermocouple. Disconnect the lead and it settles down to a nice steady 300ºC again.My best solution is, I think, to find a more suitable supply. But nevertheless I'd like to understand what's going on. Does anyone have an explanation?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2020, 10:12:52 pm
content: Welcome to the forum,Your conclusion is the right one I'm afraid, your PSU has a higher than normal leakage current. Those cheap universal laptop supplies are generally poor quality, sometimes even unsafe (impossible to say without seeing the internal construction). If you are actually seeing 120V on the tip (when not earthed) with an ordinary DMM then the leakage is bridging the insulation inside the tip and upsetting the sensitive thermocouple voltage sensing circuit, causing it to misread temperature.This problem has been reported before, but appears to be a rare occurrence...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ts100-doesn_t-function-properly-when-earthed/Try getting a second-hand decent brand name genuine original laptop adapter off ebay, eg. Lenovo, Dell, HP etc. They tend to be cheaply available and are much better quality (ie. they have passed real approvals!). Don't be fooled by listing that say "Adaptor for xxx", check the labels in the photos.A couple of other threads that may be helpful to you...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/choosingunderstanding-the-right-powersuply-for-the-ts100/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/silicone-lead-for-soldering-iron-recommendations/I hope this helps.
JBC precision/nano tip life for leaded verses lead-free soldering? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lukego
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2020, 07:14:56 am
content: Can anyone provide data on the relative tip life for JBC precision/nano soldering iron tips with leaded verses lead-free solder? If you solder lead-free will the tips wear out twice as quickly? How long would you expect nano iron tips to last with leaded solder?I have started using a JBC NASE for microsoldering and I'm running it at 280C with leaded solder at the moment. I'm also interested in using it with lead-free solder at higher temperatures but I'm concerned about wearing out the tips quickly. I saw a video from a repair shop who said their tips last only weeks and that's given me a bit of a fright.I'm also using huge gobs of amtech RMA flux and I'm not sure how important that factor is relative to temperature, tips would be welcome!

author: pidcon
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2020, 10:06:08 am
content: Well I don't use JBC. Even with my Weller at 350 C of continuous use with lead-free solder, the micro-soldering tip only needs to be changed after 8+ months. Even then the tip was not unusable, I just wanted to change it. Although mileage may vary depending on the job, I believe JBC like all the quality brands will have tips that always deliver good performance. Maybe JBC can help with the data.
ADC, Voltage Ref. - examples - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: PerranOak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 11:46:11 am
content: I am fooling around with mid-range PICs and wanted to try using an external voltage ref and an external ADC just to experiment.I was thinking of a 5V Vref just because that's what the PICs are powered at but I guess this needs 6V power for the Vref? ADCs I know nothing about save the ones within PICs.Any suggestions for simple-to-use examples would be gratefully received.Cheers.

author: KT88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 02:09:25 pm
content: In many cases like that it is convenient to have a 4.096V reference. That gives you 1mV/LSB for a 12-Bit ADC. It can be powered out of 5V as well...
Dual JBC T245 compatible 300W soldering station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dreamcat4
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 12:22:30 pm
content: (Discussion continued from other threadhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/stm32-oled-digital-soldering-station-for-t12-handle/msg3079654/#msg3079654)This looks promising.A new project? Open source."Dual JBC T245 compatible 300W soldering station"From Bavaria. LOL I already like a lot just for that reason alone. It is a Bavarian soldering iron!Videos on his channel:Github:https://github.com/Canonius/JBC_Soldering_StationI am guessing the firmware is Arduino based (because the MCU is ATmega 328p). The project seems still evolving.

author: dreamcat4
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 12:35:20 pm
content: Poll added.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 11:16:35 pm
content: No PDF schematic and the code is in a zip fileBut the idea is great. I suppose now soldering irons only use "peak" power and not continuous, so 300W for how many seconds?Personally I would use external power, and have a simple 24Vdc/48Vdc coming in. An old laptop power supply or similar.Here is another recent one:https://github.com/Jan--Henrik/Otter-Iron-PRO

author: Canonius
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 30, 2020, 12:02:26 am
content: Hello,i am very proud to be mentioned here on this forum. I saw through my github account that the many of the "downloaders" are from this forum.I am using soldering irons in my daily work as an engineer very often and i tested all of the popular "brands" like Weller, Metcal, ERSA etc. but JBC catched my heart :-) so i decided that i need to have one of these. But they are too expensive for my hobby and i needed two of them for desoldering purpose or to have two different sizes of tips without to change it. So i designed one which is very simple from the schematic perspective, powerful, compact and really quick in heat up.Yes the project is not finished, but which one is it...? I don't earning money with it, otherwise this "product" would be finished very quick. The power rating is for sure a peak value, i did not experienced a soldering job which requires a high continuous power... But i am using a quality "Made in Germany" transformer, so i assume it will survive for some minutes when the power is needed. The used mosfets in the project are laughing about the power demand, even a heatsink is not needed. Btw this was one of my requirements...I am working on my Youtube channel to provide the viewers my knowledge and experience, and as is see the views on especially this video is really high so i will definetly do a new design video of this one but i think with a STM32 uC because the atmel/arduino is in my perspective on the edge of its capability. Maybe a software engineer see it different, but i am only an hardware engineer who needs from time to time software support for my hardware ;-)Btw, here i uploaded a schematic on github:https://github.com/Canonius/JBC_Soldering_Station/blob/master/Hardware/Schematic.pdfBest regards,Waldemar
"HDMI Video Capture" USB dongle - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2020, 05:36:29 pm
content: I recently got this $12 "HDMI Video Capture" device and am trying it out for the first time.It enumerates under Linux as 534d:2109It barely gets warm when operating.Mine didnt come with a USB extension for strain relief, which might be good to use. Its just a little dongle with a USB 2 plug on one end and a HDMI socket on the other. It has a well written, little instruction book in Chinese and English that gives all the particulars. It shows up in the software apps I need it for.No LED, no nuthin. Black, ovaloid metal case.But it appears to work great.Its top output resolution is 1080p at 30 hzIt also does 720p at 60 hz.Color looks great. Almost no lag!

author: reboots
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2020, 06:54:08 pm
content: Quote from: cdev on August 28, 2020, 05:36:29 pmCan you provide a model number, or a link to where you purchased the device?

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2020, 06:58:30 pm
content: Search eBay or Ali for "HDMI USB capture"http://www.ebay.com/itm/402308488402

author: is-this-taken
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2020, 10:50:08 am
content: What is the max bitrate?

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2020, 01:51:05 pm
content: DIY network KVM:https://mtlynch.io/tinypilot/Quick summary: if you want fairly low latency for a low cost and compression ratio isn't too much of a priority, the MS2109 adapters are a perfect fit. If you want to record or stream with H.264 compression and don't care much about latency, go with the LKV373A. If you want uncompressed captures at full frame rate and low latency, you'll have to go for a more expensive capture solution.

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2020, 10:21:24 pm
content: Reading that post here was actually the first link in the chain that led me to buy this device.I agree 100%I have both of them and the LKV373M or whatever the older version is (the box I have is labeled simply V3.0) is kind of inconvenient to use unlesss you need the source to be far away, in that case its useful because it operates over the net. But the visual quality of the new generic box seems much better. Ive never been able to get 1080p/30 fps without glitching on the Lenking and the delay is substantial. I havent done any actual side by side comparison but the "user experience" on the new little dongle "is far superior"Quote from: NiHaoMike on August 29, 2020, 01:51:05 pm
KSGER hot air station, help with repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: is-this-taken
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2020, 10:47:10 am
content: Hi!So I got myself a KSGER hot air station, v1.02.It worked for whole 10 minutes before melting a fuse.I'm a electronics newb, so I'd love to get some help with repairing and making the device safe.I see that KSGER T12 has lots of mods to improve safety, are there any for the hot air station?

author: Acecool
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2020, 08:50:39 am
content: The fuse may not be the right rating for the device.The hot air wand should use 110 or 220v going to the heating element itself. When this happened, were you able to feel any hot spots on the wire to the wand?It could be a short, or it could be the unit was drawing too much current. Also, which fuse is burned out?These units should have 1 or 2...One will be located in the back of the unit - there should be a place to plug the wire in, a place to switch it on / off, and in between those points there should be a fuse box - there is a lip on the wire side so you can't take it out without removing the wire... remove the wire and remove the fuse tray and let us know if that is the one which blew.There is another one inside, most likely - let us know if the outside one blew first. If you aren't familiar with the insides of these units I wouldn't recommend digging around - main voltage goes through these and it is very easy to shock yourself and potentially die as a result.If it only worked for 10 minutes, you can contact the seller and get a replacement - this is likely the safest option. If it is only the fuse on the outside, let everyone know the rating of the fuse so we know if it is the right one or not - those fuses are generally inexpensive. But if it happens again, then a replacement is a good idea if it is new. IF you can't get a replacement then someone else may be able to help you properly diagnose any internal issues.

author: is-this-taken
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2020, 10:42:50 am
content: Quote from: Acecool on August 28, 2020, 08:50:39 amFirst, thank you for the detailed reply.The outside fuse has blown, its 5A. I have 240V AC so the fuse should have been fine for normal operation, assuming it reallThe inside one is 1A and has not blown.QuoteNo, I haven't.QuoteWell, I'm learning, so of course I opened it up, but not while it's powered onI did open the wand, and redid some bad soldering, just in case.

author: is-this-taken
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2020, 10:44:56 am
content: So I put in a new fuse and it seems to work, at least for a minute on low temp.Do not want to push it until I have an idea why it blew up the fuse the first time.I did find blackened plastic on this AC voltage connector. But the fuse near it seems fine.Any tips on what to check next?Or mods I should do to make it safer?
Displaying my inadequacies (TFT) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: PerranOak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2020, 04:12:08 pm
content: For my self-training in PICs and serial comms, I have been advised to get a display.Could anyone recommend a simple/useful/cheap display please? I was thinking of a 320x240 TFT touch so it would have a future after my learning.Noob question: how do they communicate with the PIC - all the same way?I don't really want some Arduino-type "ready solution" where it's all done for you or I'll learn nothing. Then again, I am at the beginning so simple is best!Cheers.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2020, 04:42:10 pm
content: There's more different display controller chipsets, protocols and hardware interfaces than you can shake a stick at. Rolling your own driver for an 8 bit PIC from the controller datasheet will be an exercise in heavy frustration. Going bitmapped to start with is also crazy - simply outputting a single changeable character to the display (positioned top left) will require dozens of lines of code, not including defining a font table.There's a dammed good reason why most of Microchip's low end development boards with displays came withHD44780compatible character LCDs. However a HD44780 display does require a lot of I/O pins: 11 for the easier to use full eight bit mode, 7 for four bit mode or 6 for write only four bit mode. so if short of pins, its quite common to sacrifice performance and hang it off an 8 bit I2C I/O expander, e.gPCF8574. Even writing a driver for a 'vanilla' parallel interface HD44780 display can be challenging enough for the less experienced PIC programmer . . .
Microscope stand - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Moris
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2020, 12:51:25 pm
content: This is about a microscope stand that is- stable- does not need much space on desk (L=210mm boom)A 15mm granite base will complete this stand in about two weeks.See current state with chipboard as stopgap for granite base:

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2020, 12:57:36 pm
content: Years ago, I picked up a nice optical dissecting scope for free. Of course, a stable stand is needed. I use the one it came with.If you do not have wide-field oculars (often labeled WF), they help a lot. If you need to wear glasses, they are virtually essential, but even if you don't, they make using the scope more comfortable.

author: Moris
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2020, 06:21:51 pm
content: @jpanhalt: Great you found a suitable microscope with stable stand!Some low cost microscopes used for electronics work got quite unstable standshttps://youtu.be/B0wRdJRzPUI?t=363- what made me think about an alternative.

author: Moris
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2020, 05:12:08 pm
content: The 40x30cm granite base ready!I'm happy, the stand is - let's say rock solid.

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2020, 12:22:40 pm
content: Looks nice!

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2020, 01:40:36 pm
content: Quote from: Moris on August 22, 2020, 05:12:08 pmI bought a square of hot rolled steel which I have been meaning to use as the base for a microscope stand. It may be much more dense, but even after descaling and painting it will not look nearly as nice as yours. Your stand has encouraged me to finish mine. Thank you!

author: Moris
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2020, 09:59:32 am
content: Go ahead jfiresto, curious to see your steel plate!

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2020, 10:37:10 am
content: for heavier grade dynascope

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2020, 05:10:56 pm
content: Quote from: Moris on August 26, 2020, 09:59:32 amI will post a picture when it is done. The stand is mostly design-by-DIN. The parts are supposed to come next week.
Recommend ultra-fine (0.01" / 250μm) leaded solder? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lukego
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2020, 08:26:45 am
content: I want to buy some 0.01" (250μm) leaded solder in Europe. Since a spool will probably last a lifetime I'm trying to make sure I choose the right one. I'll be soldering using very fine tools (JBC NASE) and with a generous helping of added Amtech tacky flux (unless that turns out to kill these sensitive tips, open question.) I have Kester 44 0.015" already but that feels a little thick for 0201 and below to me.First I tried to order Kester 44 0.01" but the supplier came back and said the minimum quantity is 25 one-pound spools ($150 each.) Yikes.Now I'm looking at Kester 285 0.01" on Digi-key which is in stock and available in single quantities. Since this is a "spool for life" situation though I'm just wondering whether the flux in the 285 will significantly less effective than the 44? I'm guessing not in the case where I'm using it with a heavy dose of added Amtech flux anyway, right?I also wonder idly whether I even need flux core solder in the first place, since I'm always using added flux, but guessing it's important for routine tasks like tinning irons after use and so on.(I have found a supplier for even finer 200μm solder in Europe for less than $10 athttps://eleshop.eu/soldeertin-loodvrij-0-2-mm.htmlbut alas that's lead-free and I'm still debating whether to take that step for assembling my own projects or whether to stick with leaded.)

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 19, 2020, 08:30:51 am
content: look at TME, they certainly had several types of solder of this thickness.EDIT: strange. Just checked them and it looks like they stopped selling all leaded solder altogether with recent website update. Previously they had a pretty decent selection.EDIT 2: They sell it, but leaded category disappear when Latvian region is selected. They no longer sell 0.25mm leaded anyway though.

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2020, 01:27:14 am
content: I use 0.30mm and 0.35mm routinely in my repair jobs. These are Almit, Multicore and Nihon Superior solder wires. Multicore flux doesn't work very well. But all or them are does not solder as well as a 0.5mm wire because there is too little flux in their core.Additional flux is always good but you need compatible flux so it does not react with the flux in the core.