hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Looking for 1 Form A NO (SPST) Micro ISO280 relay with 2x87 terminal - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: r-mm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2020, 09:49:09 pm
content: HelloI am looking for Micro ISO 280 format relays to fit Bussman RTMR power distribution box.https://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-142618731068637/RTMR.pdfI've looked thru Mouser, Song Chaun, TE but do not see a SPST (1 form A) with two 87 terminals. This 5 terminal SPST terminal configuration is common in other size automotive relays and handy for my purpose: headlight relays where I'd like one trigger to result in two identical outputs.Yes I can split the trigger and use 2 relays but would like to know I've exhausted the search before I do this.Thanks for any help.
Looking for - 2-leg bi-color LED driver or 3-leg LED panel mount - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: danners430
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2019, 07:45:57 pm
content: Hey guys,I've been designing a system which uses 3mm THT bi-color LEDs, mounted on a wood control panel. Up until now I'd been planning on using 3-leg LEDs, to allow me to use a "traditional" LED matrix controller IC.However, I didn't take into account the fact that on the 3-leg LEDs the outer pair of legs are wider than the LED body, which means I can't use "normal" mounting solutions to mount the LEDs on the control panel.Essentially, I have one of three options:1. Switch to 2-leg LEDs (reverse polarity for different colours)2. Find a mounting solution for 3-leg 3mm LEDs3. Switch to bi-color 3-pad SMD LEDs and find a way to mount them on the panel.The questions I therefore have are as follows:1. Are there any driver chips for 2-leg bi-color LEDs? I could drive them from shift registers, but I've got over 100 of them...2. Are there any solutions for mounting 3-leg LEDs on a control panel?Cheers in advance!Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2019, 08:04:06 pm
content: Are the LEDs mounted from the front of the panel? Otherwise I don't understand the 3-pin problem.Apart from that, making a complementary drive for 2-pins isn't too hard. What LED current are you aiming for?

author: danners430
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2019, 08:09:30 pm
content: Quote from: Benta on June 19, 2019, 08:04:06 pmOriginally, the mounts I had were similar to panel mount toggle switches and buttons in their mounting - drill a hole, push the mount in from the front, and secure from behind with a nut. The LED would push in from the front, with a rubber piece securing it from behind.Trouble is, the outer two legs of the LEDs are actually wider than the mount, so they don't fit.Ideally, the LED current is 20mA per LED - my only concern is I have over 100 of them...Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
Looking for: 2 or 3 axis rotary encoder - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Sprutbærsj
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2015, 01:21:31 pm
content: Hello.I have run into a bump in my project and was wondering if anyone could push me in the right direction.I need to construct a controller that can be used with one hand, have versatility for users to interact with a GUI without having to take anger management classes and be cheap enough to make/buy about 10-15.Insperation were found in car-nav systems with a multimedia wheel in the center console and over time wobbled more and more in that favor. It can behave as arrow keys (left, right, up, down), as enter button (push down) and as scroll wheel (infinite turn right and left).I have access to a 3Dprinter, so constructing something similar is within reach, but if I can get it as one unit I think it is worth the expence.I am looking for something simular to this.http://tinyurl.com/pj5jbwzhttp://bilder.finndel.no/x59/l24860a.jpgI only need the core parts..Is this something so rare it has to be custom made or bought in bulk of thousands?

author: B.B.Bubby
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2015, 10:30:10 pm
content: Quote from: Sprutbærsj on July 09, 2015, 01:21:31 pmHow about using an optical mouse "upside down" with whatever wheel /disc / ball mounted above the sensor?
Looking for 3.5mm PCB Jack with Optical - Apple - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jmag999
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2014, 12:52:25 pm
content: I am looking for a source for the 3.5mm 4-ring connector used on many apple products which provides both analog audio and an optical audio connector in one. Many companies sell the cable side, but I am looking for the PCB mount female connector, similar to what Apple uses in their products.You can see a picture of the connector here:http://hifiduino.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/dsc03518.jpgAny ideas where I can get some of these for my project?

author: josem
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2014, 01:30:58 pm
content: I don't know a combo 4 ring connector, but if stereo + optical spdif combo is enough you can try the DLT13M1http://www.hy1688.com/SWITCH/DC%20JACK%20HOME/Optical_File/DLT13M1.pdfAvailable on the usual places in China like AliExpresshttp://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3-5MINI-JACK-AX-DLT13M1/200425_1438662707.htmlhttp://dgsaixin.en.alibaba.com/product/672823919-201375471/optical_audio_jack_DLT13M1.htmletc...

author: jmag999
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2014, 01:32:54 pm
content: Thanks, this is exactly what I am looking for, except that I need the receiver version instead of the transmitter. I'll contact the company to inquire about it.

author: jmag999
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2014, 01:40:06 pm
content: Looks like the same company makes the receiver version too. Thanks for the help!
Looking for 4 way co-planar board to board SMD connector, going mad - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alexanderbrevig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2017, 12:40:04 pm
content: AAARRRGG,I've spent far too much time on this..My latest effort, using samtec website gave me this:Anyone know a good PN pair for what I want?Preferably they would have mounting on the sides too to support mechanical integrity.I have no further spec other than that they mate properly... I must be stupid for not finding anything by now. Wow

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2017, 02:55:04 pm
content: Preci-DIP:http://www.precidip.com/en/Products/PCB-Connectors/PCB-Connectors.htmlLook under "socket connectors" and "pin connectors"PS: probably no 4-pin type, usually you get a longer one and cut off the length you need.

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2017, 03:19:12 pm
content: If you are into something more cool (and exotic) see:https://www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/f/fci/rotaconnect-rotatable-board-to-board-connectors

author: colorado.rob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2017, 05:36:50 pm
content: Mill-Max 850/851 series.http://www.mill-max.com/assets/pdfs/040.PDFhttps://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/850-series/2725https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/851-series/2680
Looking for 5 mached transistors array on one silicon chip IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: 001
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2018, 10:34:39 am
content: Hii`m looking for IC what consist of at least 5 mached npn transistors on one silicon chip for termostability reasonhfe about 50-250 and few mA collector current will be okDip or SOIC package will be ok tooAny opinions?

author: flash2b
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2018, 10:39:53 am
content: CA3086

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2018, 10:49:43 am
content: Analog Devices has a quad (MAT14) and a few dualhttp://www.analog.com/en/parametricsearch/10988THAT has several quadhttp://www.thatcorp.com/300-series_Matched_Transistor_Array_ICs.shtml

author: 001
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2018, 11:16:41 am
content: Thanx a lot!I`m really need for few transistors on ONE silicon chipHow to understand what IC consist of ONE chip vs simply 5 discrete transistors in one package?

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2018, 11:28:32 am
content: Monolithic means everything is on a single piece of silicon. All the parts listed above are monolithic.

author: 001
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2018, 11:33:44 am
content: And say me about arrays marked 3904 2222is it simply plastic package for four different 2n3904 or 2n2222 transistors or it is also one monolitic chip?

author: MK14
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2018, 12:20:59 pm
content: Quote from: 001 on September 07, 2018, 11:33:44 amBest to check the datasheet for the devices you are interested in. That should tell you how well matched the parts are.Usually, they are a monolithic chip, but there sometimes are devices constructed out of multiple parts (hybrids, but they could still be matched parts, especially with very old electronics stuff, when matching parts e.g. transistors, was not uncommon). So checking the datasheet is best.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2018, 05:55:53 pm
content: 3904 etc. were never monolithic array designs. If they don't specify "monolithic", they are singulated dice.Some are available with dice matched as well as monolithic arrays, but they won't track thermally so you need to use them more carefully for the same purposes.Tim

author: MT
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2018, 09:50:23 pm
content: Basically all 5 tranny arrays are obsoleted 3083, 3086 etc etc etc, however you can still get LM3046 but they are EOL by TI.
Looking for 5-way 2.54mm header connector with wires - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Circlotron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 01:27:33 am
content: I have a project going where I need to source 1000 pcs with a 5 way connector on each end, the type that plugs into 2.54mm spacing pcb header pins. It is to go from a HEX pushwheel switch on a panel to a pcb with header pins. See pics. Can anyone suggest a good place to start looking?

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 03:10:52 am
content: I'd imagine there are quite a few inexpensive options from China, these header to header jumper wires are quite common and cheap on ebay. Maybe aliexpress is a better option for high volume.I'm sure you can get the from a more reputable source, but something like a 5 pin single row male to female cable can be had extremely inexpensively. In my experience they've been durable enough for normal use between fixed boards. If you're looking for a large quantity maybe it's a good idea to get a sample from the manufacturer you're considering and see if they're built well enough for your application.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 03:48:02 am
content: Something like this?http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-5pin-10cm-2-54mm-Female-to-Female-jumper-wire-Dupont-cable-for-Arduino-/261229008148?hash=item3cd2765514:g:-3MAAOxyIAZRtptiKeyword is 'Dupont'.

author: Circlotron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 04:36:44 am
content: Quote from: zapta on October 24, 2016, 03:48:02 amOh yeah! You da man!Thanks, zapta!
Looking for a 12-48V Brushed motor driver with PWM input, Recommendations? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Alex_Baker
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2024, 08:43:03 pm
content: I am working on a project the requires a motor driver (ESC) with RC PWM input and a rather wide input voltage range.The input voltage can range from 12V to 36V or a little higher, current requirement is no more than 20A. I have no trouble finding motor brushed motor driver that can handle the power and voltage, the trouble is finding one with a RC PWM input. I am using a standard RC radio to control the motor.I currently have a SyRen 25A, which works great but is only rated to a nominal 24V, 30V max.Could anybody here recommend a motor driver that doesn't completely blow the budget? I am located in the USA.Much appreciated!Alex

author: Alex_Baker
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2024, 08:58:19 pm
content: I have found this:https://www.ebay.com/itm/166558180713It's claimed specs would be perfect. but I am a bit wary of these ebay magic boxes.
Looking for a 5"x2" display - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2017, 11:04:43 pm
content: My searching has failed since I'm looking for an odd side other than one OEM who would make one if I bought quantities. I just want 1 for a project, something I can use with a Raspberry Pi. Anyone have some sources or better search-fu than I?Thanks

author: Buriedcode
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2017, 11:38:55 pm
content: Full colour? monochrome? resolution? interface? A 240x64 graphic LCD can be about 6x2" but terrible resolution

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2017, 11:54:41 pm
content: It needs to be 5x2 though, i'm replacing an existing one thats dead. Something more than a character LCD but I realize the size is odd so I'm trying to not be too picky. Its actually about 4 and 7/8 x 1 and 7/8, I find a lot close in size but not quite the same odd ratio, I find some that are 2" tall but with 4" or 6' wide, I can't find a close to 5x2.

author: Buriedcode
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2017, 12:04:51 am
content: If you could get a photo of the original that would help, because I'm not sure if your dimensions are absolute, mounting hole, or viewing area.You are right that most 240x64 ones are about 7" wide, but there may be OLED displays that are smaller. Perhaps something like this?http://www.buydisplay.com/default/serial-i2c-240x64-cog-monochrome-lcd-graphic-module-black-on-white

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2017, 12:18:45 am
content: I should have specified visual area I supposeThat one and others on that site are pretty close. 37mm h should be about 1.5" I've love to get closer to two.I'm measuring about 122mm x 48mmI find some in the 120's but they are x 60mm for example.

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2017, 04:55:08 am
content: I have no idea where you'd actually find the part, but looking at my frequency counter... it's got a 1.5"x5" graphical monochrome screen. Something like a replacement part for that could be viable.It's a Fluke PM6690, same as the Pendulum CNT-90/91 and the Tektronix MCA/FCA models, not a ton of models, but they are out there. Didn't disassemble far enough to get a part number for the LCD.
Looking for a +- 60 Vdc, 1.5 A power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AndersJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2016, 01:04:15 am
content: I need a commercially available 230 Vac input power supplywith a +- 60 Vdc output. Current output +- 1.5 A.Two 60 V outputs that can be connected in series,or one 120 V output with a center tap.Both plus AND minus outputs need to be available simultaneously.Open frame, DIN rail or similar, not a benchtop lab supply.Any suggestions?Anders J

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2016, 02:04:31 am
content: Some PoE PSUs output 56V. Maybe get two and connect in series?

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 14, 2016, 03:55:33 am
content: HiThat's likely to be a custom part.Bob

author: jwm_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2016, 05:04:42 am
content: Used? Keithkey 228a's can be found relatively cheaply for a 4 quadrant supply.
looking for a 8 pin pic with more inputs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 17, 2010, 04:58:17 pm
content: Right general collective of geniuses (both large and small)I use a 12F615 as my "jellybean" pic for small projects, it has 5 I/O lines and 1 imput line, now as only 4 of the inputs can be analogue I'm left tied up with 1 digital input only that is useless to me but could really do with either another digital or analogue input. Is there an 8 pin PIC out there with more functions on the pins ?

author: marianoapp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2010, 05:08:35 pm
content: try the microchip parametric searchhttp://www.microchip.com/maps/microcontroller.aspx

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 17, 2010, 05:11:17 pm
content: good idea, just found a chip that does it thing is i have to hope that my pickit2 (that the bastards refuse to update) and mokroe basic as both compatible !!!

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 17, 2010, 05:23:33 pm
content: Quote from: marianoapp on August 17, 2010, 05:08:35 pmand that misses the one feature i asked for: how many digital I/O, microchip in their wisdom seem to think that analogue functions are all the go and that distinguishing between I and O pins is not neccesary, I get the same I/O result for the 12F615 as I do for the 12F683, difference being to get rid of a redundant pin and use all the pins and finalize the project as I want the '683 does it the '615 does not but i had to crawl through the datasheet to find out.

author: migsantiago
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2010, 07:13:38 pm
content: The 12f683 has 6 pins available, just declare the MCLR pin as a I/O input. The GPIO3 pin, as far as I remember, only works as an input, so watch out.

author: RayJones
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2010, 07:55:11 pm
content: I'm a bit confused by your opening requirement.You have an 8 pin device that already has 5 I/O's and 1 input.That's already 6 possible digital inputs. - you need the remaining pins to power the PIC...So the real requirement is 5 analog inputs?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 17, 2010, 08:11:20 pm
content: sorry the title should have read outputs, I needed the extra output so that I can free up another pin that is an analogue input but running a digital output, I found this in the 12F683 but not thanks to microchip
Looking for a "Counter" IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: MoighonFweeman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 12:21:42 pm
content: I'm looking for a counter chip. However, it seems as if most "counter" chips count in binary. However, I'm looking for a chip that simply pulls another output high whenever a clock input is received, so that the number of outputs that are high corresponds to the number of clock pulses received. I haven't been able to find a chip with such function yet.Here are my options:1. Find such a chip2. Program an Atmega chip to have equivalent function (feels kind of cheaty, since I'm doing this project for fun)3. Use an ordinary binary counter and some kind of decoderI'd really appreciate it if someone could suggest a chip. Thanks!

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 12:31:52 pm
content: Look up Johnson counters - like the cmos 4017. Or you could cascade shift registers to whatever length you desire.

author: LaserSteve
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 02:40:12 pm
content: LSI Inc. Makes programmable counters for motion control. Easily adaptable to other tasks.Steve

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 02:46:39 pm
content: just take a shift register.set the serial input pin to logic 1.every time you 'clock' you shift an additional '1' in the register. so this makes the function you need.you can cascade as many shift registers as you want.to clear : reset pin.

author: PeterFW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 04:57:58 pm
content: Quote from: free_electron on April 30, 2015, 02:46:39 pmIndeed, use your standard 595 shift register and pull the latch pin, serial in pin and output enable high. Every pulse on the clock pin should make the next output go high. You do not have to worry about latching the input to the output since every unused ouput will change its state just once.

author: MoighonFweeman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 03:22:15 am
content: Wow, thanks! I didn't know shift registers could do that! That's a much better solution than buying a special chip, since I have a handful of 595s on hand.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 05:33:42 am
content: That's called a thermometer code. A decoder (binary to one-of-X) almost gets there, and you could use a string of diodes (given enough supply voltage -- this would be better on 12V CD4000 CMOS than on 74LVC at 2.5V say...) to fill in the code. Otherwise, you might be able to find a decoder for that....but you might be better off using an alternative, like filling up the shift register, or just programming it.If you don't need perfect synchronous accuracy, you could even use a ramp oscillator into one or more LM3914s, which produce thermometer or one-of-X code natively (think of it as an ADC with unary output!). Hey, if it works..Tim
Looking for a BIOS for an IN80C186 based PC. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Ferroto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2018, 03:24:03 am
content: So I got myself an unidentifiable board out of a piece of industrial equipment that contains anIN80C186processor that is apparently a successor to the 8088 processor however it was only ever used in embedded systems. I was wondering if there were any PC's based off this processor and if the firmware could be sourced.I have a PCB milling machine in the mail and I've always wanted to make a home made PC well and truly from scratch.

author: ChristofferB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2018, 03:49:09 am
content: I believe there were a few 186 pc's, actually. Maybe laptops? I don't recall but eitherway shouldn't it be backwards compatible enough to run an 8086 bios?

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2018, 04:22:39 am
content: The Tandy 2000 used a 80186. Having a BIOS for it or another 80186 DOS machine probably won't be very useful because it will expect all the other hardware of that computer to be present.

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2018, 05:07:54 am
content: Can you trace out its address map in some way? If so you might be able to start with SeaBIOS and create one de novo. p.s. SeaBIOS on 80186 can be made partially DOS compatible.
Looking for a boost converter for 3.3V to 5V - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: leonerd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2016, 03:50:49 pm
content: I'm looking to generate 5V (for some RGB LED chains) out of a LiFePO4 cell. I have two separate applications in mind; one requires a good amp at least - lets call it 2A for safety, but this application isn't particularly constrained for size. The other application only needs to power a few LEDs - 200mA should be plenty here, but size is absolutely paramount - ideally a SOT23-5 sized chip here.For buck-mode applications I'm a big fan of the LM2597; a nicely simple chip requiring a minimal amount of extra circuitry to end up with something that Just Works. The boost-mode variant of that is the LM2577, but that claims an input voltage range that only starts at 3.5V. Too high for the LiFePO4's nominal 3.3VI'm aware of the ON Semiconductor 34063 and related - 1.5A output and operates down to 3.0V, but they're 8pin SOIC chips. Not the smallest around, and the extra periphery of voltage-setting and peak-current sense resistors and other such starts to add up.Absolute requirements are: minimal 3.0V input voltage, fixed 5V output without needing a reference.Ideally (but would be willing to compromise): built-in flyback diode to reduce component count; at least for the size-constrained 200mA use case.Does anyone have any recommendations or favourites in this space?

author: trevwhite
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2016, 03:53:58 pm
content: Texas do an awesome device - TPS61235 or TPS61236. Package is small but the specs are good.

author: leonerd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2016, 04:22:12 pm
content: Quote from: trevwhite on March 29, 2016, 03:53:58 pmOoh, that is a nice chip. Two internal FETs for push/pull operation, thus avoiding the need for an external flyback diode. Claims 3A and such a small size too. That might serve both my use-cases at once.

author: trevwhite
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2016, 05:00:49 pm
content: Even got a dev board to get you up and running.http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TPS61236EVM-676/?qs=Ut1FAN7b%2FurxdErcSyA2yA%3D%3D

author: chris_leyson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2016, 05:22:34 pm
content: LTC3539 has been quite popular on the forum, Batterizer clones, 2x3mm DFN package no external diode but needs two resistors to set the voltage. Datasheet claims 95% efficiency for 3.6V in 5V out at 200mA.Chris
Looking for a BT4.0 audio module - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: lutkeveld
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2015, 04:50:49 pm
content: I'm looking for a BT4.0 (APT-X) module to use on a custom PCB.All I seem to find are questionable modules on Aliexpress with crappy documentation.Does anybody know a good module? I've seen the RN52 from Microchip, but those are a bit expensive and not 4.0.Something with the CSR 864x would be great. Where in the world do companies get them from.CSR only does 2k reels and I never see anybody use bare chips, they always use modules.

author: Zarhi
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2015, 05:29:43 pm
content: http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=792I ordered one, will arrive next week.

author: lutkeveld
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2015, 07:19:12 pm
content: Thanks, but I'm looking for a module to use on a PCB, not a finished product.

author: microbug
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2015, 07:26:21 pm
content: A 'Bluetooth 4.0' audio module is the same as a 3.0 or 2.X, as the later versions don't add anything audio-related. Get a normal Bluetooth audio module, like the RN-52 (Microchip).

author: lutkeveld
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2015, 07:33:43 pm
content: Really? Interesting. What does it add then?

author: microbug
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2015, 07:50:24 pm
content: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=differences+between+bluetooth+versionsTake a look at:http://www.quora.com/What-is-the-difference-between-Bluetooth-4-0-3-0-and-2-0Short answer: things that aren't audio related. Newer versions generally also have better range, lower power consumption etc., but that will be more dependent on the module you choose than the version of Bluetooth it uses.

author: will9twl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2015, 04:15:03 am
content: Hi lutkeveldNote that aptX will require licensing rights from CSR and MOQ. If you just want a few pieces, I would recommend the WT32i module to fulfill your audio and aptX requirements.http://www.mouser.sg/ProductDetail/Bluegiga-Technologies/WT32i-A-AI6/?qs=0Dbrz4iFQy%2fdGReKnV8y6w==For more on Bluetooth Smart, you may wish to check out our blog post -http://omgbazinga.com/blog/index.php/component/k2/item/9-empower-your-projects-with-bluetooth-smartCheers!

author: lutkeveld
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2015, 10:26:53 am
content: I'm looking at 100s, not 1000s. The 5000 apt-x licensing fee is a little steep for now. I'll have a look at the WT32i, thanks.
Looking for a cable / converter to power on a display that requires 5V,but...... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ziomario
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2025, 07:53:09 pm
content: Hello.Finally I found a very easy to use battery pack to power on the USB 8 inches display,this one :https://www.waveshare.com/8hp-caplcd-monitor.htmthat I'm using in my Mini-PC / Tablet DIY project based on the RockPro RK3399.The board is powered by the Nitecore 10.000 Mah powerbank using a male barrel jack. The USB display is powered on attaching a cable that connects the USB-C port of the display to the USB-A port of the board.Now I want to try to power on the display independently from the powerbank,but using an external battery pack,this one :https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32381410408.htmlI want to connect one side of it to the display (USB-A) and the other side to the battery pack (male barrel jack),but the problem is that they have different voltages. The display requires 5V/2a,the battery pack gives 12V/3000 Mah,so I need to find a cable / converter. I found this one :https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Convert-Voltage-Step-Up-5-52-1mm/dp/B073R7Z7CLbut I'm not sure if it is good or not. Please advice.

author: Hiemal
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2025, 07:22:28 pm
content: Well, if your board requires 5V, and you have 12V, you need a step *down* converter, aka, a buck, not step up, aka a boost. The one you linked is a step up converter.You should try measuring how much current your display requires first, and then work from there to decide what kind of power handling your buck converter should have.
Looking for a chip that can do stereo microphone input, and maybe 196khz output? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rwgast_lowlevellogicdesin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2015, 09:02:01 pm
content: So I searched TI this morning but I got really confused it said two inputs two outputs but is was mono, and the chips that specified mic input did not say if it was stereo or not...Basically I want an SDR suitable sound card for my laptop. My PC's X-Fi works great but my laptop has a built in mic... The USB x-fi would work but I don't want to pay that plus id rather roll my own with some DSP. My laptop drivers say Realtek high Defenition and also Intel(R) under audio. What are the chances I could find the data sheet on a realtek sound chip and it have stereo mic? Cutting the internal mic out adding some jumper wire and drilling for a stereo 3.5mm jack seems much easier than making a USB sound card.

author: dom0
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2015, 10:23:52 am
content: Internal microphones are almost always digital since a few years (DMIC / digital microphone interface). Usually audio codecs will still have two channels or so of analog input (for external microphone or line in).There are a bunch of Realtek datasheets floating around. If there isn't one for your codec, try finding the schematics of notebooks with the codec. They will have at least the pin out.

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2015, 10:45:52 am
content: And your laptop doesn't have a mic in jack?Maybe its one of those new fangled combo-jacks that have in and out.In laptops the Mic is always analog, never seen one with a digital one, even expensive ones, what you might have is that the mic is soldered in the webcam pcb and then goes over USB, using the cam as the audio in interface.

author: krivx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2015, 12:04:37 pm
content: If you just need a solution (and not a project) then the Behringer USB soundcards are less than 30usd and have an extremely good reputation, despite the brand.
Looking for a common/cheap usb 2.0 controller to make my own usb hub. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: XOIIO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2016, 05:35:00 pm
content: Hey all, so I got an ebay special usb hub to modify my razer megalodon headset to not need a separate usb 2.0 hub as it was a hassle, and it doesn't work with usb 3.0 ports. (hence the need for the usb 2.0 controller between the pc and the headset).I thought it would be fun to make my own board to do this, since I could probably make it smaller than the one that I got off ebay, and it would likely be higher quality, compared to the chip on board crap they have (which works, I just don't know about the longevity).The ebay one is pretty good size wise, I have a video on my channel showing the process but you can see pictures here >http://imgur.com/a/GvsVOAnyhow, I'm wondering if someone knows off hand of a good usb 2.0 controller chip, preferably qfp or something else similarly compact, that is relatively cheap/widely available? (I usually source small parts from ebay, and yeah it might be a knockoff, I'll find out when it blows up lol)

author: XOIIO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2016, 05:43:10 pm
content: Actually found my old usb 2.0 hub that I wasn't bothered with tearing apart, and it has a nice one on it, though it's ridiculously small lol (gl850g), plus I just realized it should all be smd stuff and I only have an iron lol, I wonder if I could somehow do this by hand, maybe soldering all the pins then using some solder wick to remove the excess.That would be god awful lolPerhaps there are some in an soic package that would be easier to solder, since they generally have larger pins (this one does have an so variant actually)
Looking for a connector, but do not know what it might be called - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AndersJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2019, 01:43:59 pm
content: I need a connector with the same functionality as a 3,5 mm earphone jackthat opens a existing circuit and connects a new one.Just like a legacy earphone that disconnects a speaker and connects the earphone instead.Or the connector of a power supply, that disconnects the battery when plugged in.But I want something more robust, like an XLR connector.Are such connectors available, and what are they called?Thanks for comments or suggestions.

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2019, 06:44:30 pm
content: You could try the 1/4" equivalent of the 1/8"/3.5mm version. Those are physically more robust.In terms of having something XLR with a switch, the Neutrik NC3FBV2-SW seems like it would fit the bill. (https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nc3fbv2-sw)
Looking for a constant voltage drop circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2022, 11:18:12 am
content: The circuit has to:- act as a two terminals load and able to dissipate 10-50W or so- keep a constant voltage drop in a range from mA to a few Amps- preferably have a continuously adjustable voltage drop set (2V ... 15V), but it can eventually have only a fixed voltage- preferably bidirectionalBriefly, the circuit has to act like a power Zener diode, preferably symmetric, as if it were two anti-series Zener diodes.I need such a circuit to put it in series with a CC-CV power supply that generates constant current, to discharge/measure rechargeable batteries without the need of a dedicated active load. Something similar with the attached schematic, but that can keep constant voltage in reverse, too.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2022, 11:29:44 am
content: While you *CAN* build a shunt regulator capable of 50W dissipation, (e.g. TLVH431 driving a PNP input Sziklai pair to boost the current), at that point you might as well build an active load . . .

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2022, 11:39:26 am
content: 50W is a lot. Anyways, stick you favorite "power zener" inside a diode bridge?

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2022, 01:30:07 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on April 02, 2022, 11:29:44 amFully agree with that, just that it seems so much easier to solder 5-10 parts in air, on a TO3 with a radiator.The main advantage of using a series drop load + a power supply (instead of building a complete active load) would be that the Rigol DP832 power supply I already have can be controlled remotely, and it can log the voltage and the current while (dis)charging the batteries on all its 3 channels.Quote from: langwadt on April 02, 2022, 11:39:26 amThe bridge idea fits very well, thank you!Especially that I might have a few unused 30A bridges so big they might serve as a radiator, too, if I lower the 50W request.Another advantage of the bridge is that it can turn off the load, which would be great. It would be possible to sense the direction of the current flow, and turn off the load to protect the power supply in case of a mains power surge (DP832 can only source current, it can not sink).
Looking for a current limited high side driver/load switch 30V and 2-4A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AndersJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2021, 01:06:24 pm
content: I need a fast electronic current limiter, a ”fuse”, but ”fast” and autorecoverable.A high side switch, at least 30V, 2-4A, thermally protected,with automatic reconnection attempts every nn seconds would likely work.The ST VNI2140 is perfect, but the current limit is too low.I tried parametric searches on Mouser and Digikey, but my search skills are limited.Any suggestions?

author: Scrts
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2021, 01:33:35 pm
content: https://www.ti.com/product/TPS1H200A-Q1

author: AndersJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2021, 02:09:28 pm
content: The TPS1H200A seems to be a excellent choice.Many thanks for the suggestion.Now I need to figure out where to buy it.Stock seems to be zero everywhere

author: AndersJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2023, 04:02:46 am
content: 16 months later, and still unobtanium 🙁Does anyone have an alternative suggestion?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2023, 12:09:20 am
content: Quote from: AndersJ on February 22, 2023, 04:02:46 amIts worth your time to learn how to search digikey, instead of waiting 16 months.https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/filter/power-management-pmic/power-distribution-switches-load-drivers/726https://rocelec.widen.net/view/pdf/mhyxqjr8f0/FAIRS46409-1.pdf
looking for a current switch to trigger a fan - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gkmaia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2020, 10:48:10 pm
content: I got a microwave that gets a bit hot inside the cupboard. I wanted to when the microwave starts for a current switch to detect the current raise and turn a power outlet on so a fan can start.Is there such device? Or that is pretty much a bespoke project?

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2020, 02:06:32 am
content: I don't know if they're still available but it used to be possible to get current relays which were used for starting refrigeration compressors. The run winding was in series with the relay coil and the high locked rotor current at startup would close the relay and engage the starting winding. Once the motor starts the current falls and the relay releases.It's possible kind of off the shelf electronic controllers exists but I'd just build something. Small current transformers are cheap and readily available, you could probably use the output of that directly to control a transistor to switch on a DC fan. For the power supply either a basic unregulated circuit with a transformer, rectifier and filter capacitor or a cheap little switchmode supply would work.Of if you are willing to modify the microwave, install a suitable power socket on the back and tap off of the wiring to the cooling fan that's inside the microwave.Or maybe you just need to duct the vent for the existing internal fan out of the cabinet to keep the heat from building up.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2020, 02:33:40 am
content: Just use a snap disk thermostat to turn on a fan when it heats up.
Looking for a datasheet AD T9611 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: DanTheDuck
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 05:23:36 pm
content: I have a 16 pin DIP with an AD logo and the following markings:T96112018D14482 OAny ideas as to what it is?

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 06:54:27 pm
content: What kind of a unit is it in? Is the unit broken?
looking for a datasheet - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Kappes Buur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2016, 08:22:52 pm
content: I know that the company, Hybrid Systems Corporation, no longer exists. In the 80s they made, among other hybrid chips, a DAC335C-12. Assets of the company have been sold and resold several times.I am having little success to find a datasheet for this DAC335C-12 specically.This is what it looks like: top, bottom and inside.If one of you could help me finding the datasheet I would appreciate it.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2016, 12:22:19 am
content: Try looking around page 241 of this:https://archive.org/download/bitsavers_icMaster19_94563134/1983_IC_Master_Volume_2.pdfThis is not the same part, it's close but in the same package so maybe the pinout is the same:http://www.datasheetarchive.com/DAC336C-12-datasheet.html

author: rich
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2016, 12:50:47 am
content: Good find. Building on your work, I discovered that the DAC87A is pin compatible with the 335, but you need to change some passives.http://parts.io/search/term-dac87a/Class-Converters/Category-Digital%20to%20Analog%20Converters?Manufacturer%20Part%20Number=dac87a

author: Kappes Buur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2016, 03:51:43 am
content: Excellent finds. Thank you.
Looking for a DC motor bridge IC 2A+ and a 80-100V buck converter IC @30W - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2015, 05:00:41 pm
content: Hello/RANT_BEGIN/ second attempt to post a messsage in here. The first one got lost due to pissfuly short session timeouts here. I was so angry that I have destroyed my mouse, slaming it into ground. /RANT_END/For optimizing and redesign of already existing research equipment made from discretes and a few ICs so far, I am searching for some parts for an upgrade, especialy these two:A DC motor bridge IC. 16V operation, 2A continual load. Ideally anything "dumb" without smart functions, like TLE5206. SMT package needed (But please no QFN, as the project manager doesn't like them - don't asky why). The TLE5206 is precisely what I need, but the TLE has got idiotic pricing and not so good availability though. Do you know any other similar product, that I could use? I think there must be a fuckton of these ICs, but probably I do my googling somehow wrong.It doesn't need to be precisely a DC motor bridge, it won't be used for a DC motor thoughA buck converter IC. 60V input voltage nominal, so something which will hold up to 80 or better 100V input. I need 16V output at 2 to 3 amps. I think this will be the hard one. I have found only a few of these like LM5007, but this is only a weak current. So external switch is not a problem - only if there is such IC that supports it. Also SMT package required here. Do you know any such IC usable for that kind of PSU?Thank you a lot!Yan//PS: Destroying the old mouse was fun, I already needed a new one - was a good stress relief
looking for a decent quality LCD - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: bitter_mike
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2020, 08:46:08 pm
content: Hey,I'm looking for a decent quality 16x2 LCD for a project and I was hoping for a recommendation. I've been scrounging some from an Elegoo knockoff Arduino kit and somehow all 3 of them that I have are broken in slightly different ways (mostly the data pins having very low resistance pathways to ground).I don't really have any other requirements. I guess I would prefer one with the standard 16 pin configuration as opposed to something with an I2C interface.Thanks.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2020, 09:06:00 pm
content: I've used lots of random ones from China sellers and can't recall ever having a problem with any of them. Are you sure the ones you have weren't damaged by ESD or other incidents? You could buy them from mainstream distributors like Digikey or Mouser if you're having problems finding good ones elsewhere.

author: bitter_mike
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2020, 09:26:56 pm
content: That's entirely possible. They weren't in anti-static bags, but all 3 of them being busted seemed odd to me.

author: rhodges
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2020, 10:42:42 pm
content: I have bought many from random ebay vendors in China, and no problems. Traditional yellow-green, white on blue, white on red, they all behaved for me. I can send you one if you are in a hurry.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2020, 11:40:59 pm
content: I bought a few cheap ones from China around 10 years ago, maybe they've gotten better since. Every one I tried had terrible quality displays. Poor contrast, ghosting, slow refresh, etc. Started buying brand names after that, Newhaven mostly because Mouser stocks them.

author: rhodges
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2020, 12:12:34 am
content: Quote from: rdl on July 04, 2020, 11:40:59 pmThe ones I bought in the last couple years have been fine. Contrast was easily controlled with a pot. A really frugal design might get by with just a resistor.

author: eblc1388
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2020, 01:12:25 am
content: Besides adjusting the contrast, a trim pot will also affect the bias/viewing angle of the display to some extent. The visual improvement is quite big.Always use one, 10K trim pot is perfect for the job.

author: bitter_mike
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2020, 02:44:28 am
content: I think I'll grab a few more cheapies off Amazon and grab a Newhaven one to compare. Thanks for the recommendation.

author: tonyh88
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2020, 12:26:19 am
content: It depends on your budget but the Newhaven ones are good and reliable at around 10$USD each .