hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Component search help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: salviador
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2025, 06:53:57 pm
content: "I need help finding components that are inserted into USB-C, which manages the voltage."

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2025, 07:19:08 pm
content: SJTL appears to be an adjustable(?) LDO regulator made by Microne. Unfortunately, Microne does not include part markings in its datasheets.T2 could be SSG4505:http://www.datasheet.hk/download.php?id=1426753&pdfid=48D5B07D262922815CAC4F12307018E8&file=0203%5Cssg4505_4589294.pdf... or GSS4505:https://datasheet4u.com/datasheet/GTM/GSS4505-601067The marking doesn't match, but I wonder of this is T3:http://www.secosgmbh.com/datasheet/products/MOSFET/SOP-8/SSG4903J-C.pdfThe T2 and T3 date code formats appear to be similar, which suggests that the manufacturer is the same for both.
Component selection help - 17IPS20 repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: DenialMyOldFriend
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 27, 2020, 04:08:54 pm
content: Hi, first post here, and I'm really rusty - haven't got my soldering iron out for years, so I'd like to check a few things before I bugger something up worse than it already is.I'm trying to fix a 17IPS20 power supply in a telly I was given (schematic attached). The rectifier seems cooked and I can't get hold of RL207s at a decent price, so should it be OK to replace them with IN5408s?IN5408 -http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/314353.pdfRL207 -http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1684861.pdfAlso one of the mosfets shows a short source-drain unpowered. I seem to remember that means it's scragged - or am I confused there?Many thanks if you can help.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2020, 08:22:56 pm
content: 1N5408 is OK.Testing MOSFETs:http://www.4qdtec.com/mostest.html

author: DenialMyOldFriend
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 28, 2020, 09:44:37 am
content: Spot on, thanks mate.
Component without datasheet - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Alimash
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 29, 2023, 09:24:53 am
content: HelloI am troubleshooting a couple of coolmaster ATX power supplies.I suspected that the faulty components are the sps supervisor IC's labeled "IN1S313I" and"IN1S424I".I couldn't find any information about them online exept for their name, role and the manufacturer witch is "infsitronix".No datasheet, no pinout, i even tried to email infsitronix but no reply so far.I can't find a supplier to buy it either.Any help of how to test it and where to buy/order it is appreciated.Regards.

author: magic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2023, 09:46:30 am
content: A fairly common occurrence in ATX PSUs. If you reverse engineer enough of the surrounding circuitry, it usually becomes evident what they do.Most SMPS problems are caused by bad capacitors or power semiconductors, rarely the control ICs.
Components identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Jason K
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 06:29:29 am
content: Can anyone help to identify these components?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 06:32:42 am
content: The thing that looks like a ceramic capacitor appears to be a 1.5kV spark gap capacitor (surge arrestor). I used to see them on the neck PCBs of CRT TVs and monitors.https://www.google.com/search?q=%22spark+gap++capacitor%22&tbm=isch

author: Jason K
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 06:41:58 am
content: Any idea what unit is the .75 on the ceramic capacitor? I am not able to purchase this part somehow.How do I know what type of spark gap is that? through colour bands or? Dont see any bands though

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 07:31:08 am
content: Quote from: Jason K on January 11, 2023, 06:41:58 amI'm guessing 75pF.http://www.sinequanon.co.uk/spark-arc-gap-capacitor-1-2-kv-75pf-gap-kap.htmlCould this have been the manufacturer?http://www.cc-sec.com/en/news_183.htmlIt could be 0.75pF, 1.5kV:https://web.archive.org/web/20091006220454/http://www.cc-sec.com/cn/pc_24.htmCould you provide some circuit context for the ANR1 component? Could it be a surge arrestor?

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 08:04:28 am
content: That first glass thing looks like a device that Dave discovered in one of his reviews about a Hioki Multimeter. He published a video about it. Will search for it.Edit: Found it quickly in the watch history:https://youtu.be/D8Rom9Owsyo?t=359

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 04:30:59 pm
content: Quote from: Swake on January 11, 2023, 08:04:28 amIt looks like Mitsubishi DA38 series or something similarhttps://datasheetspdf.com/pdf/657613/Mitsubishi/DA38/1https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256803407921016.html

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 06:22:47 pm
content: FWIW, Mitsubishi have a DSANRsurge arrestor, but the package is different.https://static6.arrow.com/aropdfconversion/983af1d92e28d5d1e46d7d98afc2e5280a5c1762/surgeabsorber.pdf

author: Jason K
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 12, 2023, 12:58:12 pm
content: Brillant! You are absolutely right. The manufacturer is Success Electronic from Taiwan.
Compressor Motor Fault? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Andrew2007
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 30, 2019, 09:08:59 am
content: HiI got myself a large air compressor with supposedly a faulty motor, the seller was told by an electrician that the motor needed to be replaced but I thought it would be a good idea to test it out myself before committing to buy an expensive replacement.It's a 3 Hp 230V AC motor single phase, you can see in the photo that the neutral wire that's connected to the 16A breaker has overheated.The capacitor checks out okay with my multimeter and inside of the breaker look's okay too.I've bought a cheap insulation tester, obviously not as good as what an electrical engineer would use but adequate for what I'll be using it for, I've tested the insulation resistance at 20°C between each of the three coil wires and ground, when testing at 500V DC the insulation resistance intially would be about 400 MΩ and go up to 1000 MΩ after 5 second's and 2000 MΩ after 7 second's which is the maximum the meter will read. I know these number's should be temperature corrected to a higher temperature as the motor temp will rise when running, I read somewhere about 120°C but even so they appear to be well within what's acceptable.I can only think that this connector on the breaker has overheated as the result of a bad connection, is the motor faulty?Any idea, thanks?

author: tppc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2019, 09:54:23 am
content: Quote from: Andrew2007 on May 30, 2019, 09:08:59 amI think it's a bad connection too.If you short the blue wires, does the motor run normally?If you can start the motor by manually turning the shaft, then replace the large white capacitor.

author: Andrew2007
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 30, 2019, 11:19:49 am
content: I haven't tried to run the motor yet as wanted to check everything first, I forgot to say that the capacitor appears to be okay as I checked it out with my multimeter which reads capacitance.Everything looks okay inside the 16A breaker but I can just connect the blue wires together to be 100% sure.

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2019, 01:32:35 pm
content: To me it looks like the faston connector was loose and overheated. I would try repairing it and then testing the equipment.

author: cvanc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2019, 02:10:04 pm
content: It has the appearance of a classic case of localized heating caused by a loose connection. I think your motor might be OK.

author: Andrew2007
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 31, 2019, 07:01:01 am
content: I tried it yesterday and the motor does run, I'll get it connected to the compressor pump shortly and see how it performs under load. 😁

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2019, 09:46:28 pm
content: Those faston connectors when they start to heat up soon deform and go into a spiral of death. You should make sure they are tight and make good contact.
Compressor Time Starting Device - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Lion_Tamer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 10:10:45 pm
content: Hi AllI am trying to mend a rather expensive fully integrated fridge freezer which has suffered a cascade failure of the compressor starting system. Unfortunately it looks like it will be a slow process to get hold of a new TSD for this unit so I want to try and mend this one.Embraco's Technical Information on the TSD:https://www.embraco.com/DesktopModules/DownloadsAdmin/Arquivos/02047.pdfThe initial symptoms were that it would run the compressor for approx 5 - 10 seconds then trip the overload protector. I found that the 5uF run capacitor had failed and also then found that the MAC8SNG Triac in the "Time Starting Device" (TSD) was also short circuit, having replaced both the capacitor and triac I had the unit sat in the middle of the floor running nicely so decided to put the covers on and refit it into the housing - at this point it failed and will no longer start the compressor but just trips the thermal protector.I have pulled the unit out again and having had a close look at the TSD I can see that one of the 0805 ceramic capacitors has broken/blown. I have reverse engineered the schematic (attached below) and marked the dead capacitor but I have no idea what value it should be, all of the other capacitors are also glued to the PCB so I can't measure them and can't get an in circuit reading.Please can someone with more knowledge of AC circuits than me help me out with some appropriate value to try?Thank youJem

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 11:54:39 pm
content: The first thing that I'd do, is disconnect the compressor and the big capacitor and replace it with two household lightbulbs so that you won't annoy the compressor anymore when testing.I would presume that the blown cap has to be at least 100nF to form a divider with the other cap.I'm kind of surprised that they are using 0805 components for something like this.Somebody with more knowledge can probably give a better answer.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2019, 12:22:50 am
content: Those are built to fail. Absurd complexity and nothing but pure planned obolescence.Simply replace with a generic start relay/overload protector, which will probably outlast the compressor.Edit: are you sure the winding resistances are correct? The start winding should have higher resistance than the run.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2019, 04:06:07 am
content: Did you by any chance use a Start rated cap and not a Run rated one ?While both are often listed as motor start caps only the Run rated ones will withstand continuous line voltage.
computer cooling water pump disassembly - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: squeaks
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 28, 2022, 02:54:02 am
content: This failed water pump was integrated with a bay reservoir for a computer cooling loop that I purchased in 2012. It provided tens of thousands of hours of faithful service, but one day it stopped spinning. I removed the pump from the reservoir, and applied 12V to the wires and the pump did not spin. I disassembled it which the pictures show. The rotor and shaft seemed to be in very good condition, as were the impeller and blades. I nonetheless cleaned them and reassembled. Applying 12V I noted a buzz and when attempting to jump start the pump or poke it, I did not have success. Once or twice the pump surprised me and ran for 0.5 seconds or so then stopped. Trying to turn the impeller by hand I found increasing resistance like it was teasing me with increasing danger. It was hard to turn the impeller with the intake cover on, but the intake cover supports the shaft and therefore helps maintain alignment of the rotor. I also applied force with a rubber mallet without success.The pump draws about 0.5 Amp at 12V.I notice that when turning the rotor by hand, it stops every 180 degrees.I suspected one of the two sets of windings failed, or wiring or electronics related to a set of windings. so I tried to gain access to the internals with a dremel. It seems like the way this was constructed was there is a thin outter plastic shell and the internal parts were placed inside and then filled with some type of plastic that hardens. So none of the internal components seem to be accessible.I found some youtube videos on small water pump disassembly that are mostly made by Indians. In most of their 'repairs' the rotor or internal area were contaminated with enough scaling to prevent the pump from rotating. This does not solve my problem. My pump was ran in distilled water and was very clean.I am curious about what the internals are like, and am considering taking a hot air gun and trying to melt away the plastic. I'd prefer to end up with something like a good set of windings to play with if possible.I know this is not economical but can anyone suggest how I could remove the plastic making the pump useless and boring? An acid maybe?

author: TheMG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2022, 01:23:32 pm
content: It's most likely an epoxy based potting. Not much will touch it even heat won't really do much. Soaking in acetone might soften it a bit but will also ruin some things like the PVC wire insulation.
Computer PSU fan noise - bypass "warranty" stickers on screw heads - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lordvader88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2019, 01:43:06 am
content: My gaming PC has a 850W PSU about 3-4yrs old on a 7yr warranty I think. The fan needs oil, so I need to break the screw seals to get inside. And I might scratch it up like I did to others.But anyways, what's a sneaky way to get the glue heated up on the stickers, I guess don't try my soldering iron, or hot air station, I don't have a kettle and I'm not holding a PSU over a stove

author: KC0PPH
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 12, 2019, 01:45:49 am
content: Just peel them off and clean the glue residue. If it needs a warranty return play dumb. Just don’t scratch anything

author: Hemi345
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2019, 09:28:43 pm
content: If it's under warranty, ask the company what options you have. It sounds like you don't want to be down for a few days/weeks while they repair or replace your current unit. Maybe if you plead with them that you can't have long down time, they'll cross ship a replacement to you. Otherwise, you break the seal, you should expect the warranty to be voided.

author: zipob
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 15, 2019, 10:58:50 am
content: Wouldn't be the first time that you send device with a dried up noisy fan to warranty repair, there's "nothing wrong" with the fan as long as it vaguely spins and you end up paying for the "inspection" more than the whole unit is worth and maybe getting the device back six months later with the fan now completely seized up.
Computer Screen Flashing on/off - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mrrcomp
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2023, 02:01:50 am
content: HII have a samsung Computer Screen. It has autodetect if the signal is analog or digital.It just keeps flashing on and off I can see the computer connecting using either the DVI input or the VGA gives the same situation. The computer signals are fine since i connected other screens without problems.Suggestions??Regards

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2023, 03:41:07 am
content: check the psu caps for esr,presume its a smps type?.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2023, 05:35:01 am
content: How old is it?I've fixed many flashing monitors and TV's by replacing the worn out crappy brand low-ESR capacitors on the output of the PSU board with new.Ripple gets into the processor board and freaks it out until you replace the caps to provide nice clean power again.

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2023, 08:56:23 am
content: if ts led/lcd are you sure its not just the backlight going on and off?.
Compuvideo SVR-1100S8B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: therealdynamo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 17, 2022, 02:44:57 am
content: Hello everyone, long time lurker first time poster. A friend was recently able to dig up an old vectorscope (oscilloscope?), the Compuvideo SVR-1100S8B, and I am having trouble finding any information on it. I can't seem to find any manuals or user/service guide, so I am maybe thinking that this is just a rebrand of another scope. I'd like to have some sort of information since I would like to repair it, since it just displays a singular dot, which can be moved around with the pan.Does anyone have any info or manuals, or know what scope it is based on?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2022, 03:33:27 am
content: Try the Wayback Machine:https://web.archive.org/web/19990422124209/http://www.compuvideo.com/wfm_pg1.htm
Conformal coating type identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: gaminn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2024, 09:09:13 am
content: Hi,can you please help identify the type of this conformal coating? It is on the PCB from a VFD manufactured around 2000, not totally clear, rather brownish in color. When it is scraped it chips off. When soaked in acetone for 12 hours it softened and it is possible to scrape it off with e.g. my nail. When acetone evaporated the coating is again hard.I hoped I will be able to remove the coating in acetone. It somehow helped but after 12 hours I got some soldermask damage...Thanks

author: narkeleptk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2024, 05:01:22 pm
content: Possibly the acrylic type.https://mgchemicals.com/category/conformal-coatings/acrylic-conformal-coatings/
Confused about thermal pad specifications - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: cvanc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2019, 02:21:57 pm
content: See photo, please. Let me ask the questions this way:Under 'Thermal Resistivity' which one is best?Under 'Thermal Conductivity' which one is best?Which of these parameters is directly related to this specific part in question (material plus dimensions)?Which of these parameters is directly related to the MATERIAL the part is made from, as a dimensionless spec?Thanks.

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2019, 04:45:52 pm
content: Well tables are just inverted.. you pick your choice.I rather prefer the CONDUCTANCE in both senses:- First a more thermal CONDUCTIVE pad is better- second the material MUST BE carefully considered.You see as in THERMAL PASTE - thermal pads may be usedwhere some capacitors are underneath components and will nottolerate CONDUCTIVE (electric) material.I have seen some pads literally melt becoming a garbagecrap underneath the component.If the material is conductive (electric) bad things happenPaul

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 24, 2019, 05:14:46 pm
content: Thermal resistivity = 1/Thermal conductivity. Same thing. Lower resistivity/higher conductivity is better.
Confused Kill-a-Watt - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 11:47:20 pm
content: My old Kill-a-Watt (P4400) has become confused. When I plug it in, it initializes normally and reads the line voltage correctly. Current reads zero for 10 sec. and then jumps to 0.14A with nothing plugged in. That's where it sits from then on. An ammeter confirms that the Kill-a-Watt is NOT drawing 0.14A by itself.I opened it up, inspected everything, checked solder joints, etc. I tested the main dropping capacitor and it's fine. I managed to perform the 110V/10A calibration procedure which completed successfully and worked fine over a power cycle. But the fault still remains.The 10 second delay has me baffled. Does anyone have any idea what's going on? Or should I just bin it and buy a new one?Ed

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2019, 01:03:13 am
content: I found these schematics for Kill-A-Watt P4400 and P4460 but there area few different versions.The 10 second delay is weirdly long and might be a dud electrolytic capacitor or something warming up.I would check the main +15V and +6.2V (op-amp) rail is OK, the 100uF cap. The current-sense op-amp or shunt might be damaged and drifting around or open circuit.

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2019, 04:11:38 am
content: Yes, the second drawing is my unit. My next step was going to be powering the unit up just with DC on the bench and see what happened. I thought I'd ask and see if anyone else had seen something like this.I agree that the delay is weirdly long. The other thing that's weird about it is that it's absolutely consistent. In fact, according to my stopwatch (and my reflexes) it's 11 sec. (not 10 - sorry) from the moment the voltage reading appers or 13.4 sec. from the moment of power-up with a tolerance of +- 0.1 sec. Every - single - time!Ed
Confusion on a Yamaha RX-A1080 schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rfengg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 04:29:45 pm
content: Hi All,Need help with some confusion on a Yamaha RX-A1080 schematic from the service manual.Per the attached pic of one of the amp sections on a board housing 3 identical channels, on CB107 at the bottom right corner, there are voltages marked as +LB_R and -LB_R......what does +LB_R and -LB_R mean?They are different from the HV voltages driving the output stages.Also they have put +60.5V at both +LB_R and -LB_R which does not make sense if they are measuring this wrt to "ground" as the capacitors will have the wrong polarity then. Can anyone clear this up for me?

author: nfb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 11:42:04 pm
content: +LB_R and -LB_R are voltages supplying the low current part of the power amplifier. They are the voltages driving the output stages of the amplifier with additional filtering and regulation.-LB_R is of course -60.5V, there is an error in the schematic.
Connected gold 82D 5v bluetooth chip in reverse polarity - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: stckscreed
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 18, 2025, 03:52:31 am
content: So mistakenly I connected gold 82D 5v bluetooth chip with the 1amp charging module in reverse polarity and as expected it stopped working if there is anyway I can fix it now please tell the shop which sells these is really far away from me and I don't want to travel that much again for this... thanks
Connection to AR9344 via J-link jtag programmer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: raminrajabi
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2021, 05:54:02 am
content: Hi, I'm trying to connect my JTAG (j-link from segger) to my AR9344 chipset but it can't recognize it. is my programmer supporting this chipset or not?which programmer supporting this chipset?Thanks.
connector for DELL keybaorad backlight - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: silas15
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 13, 2020, 06:47:43 pm
content: Hi,today I broke connector for keybord backlight. Notebook is DELL Inspiron 15 7559 and board is DAAM9AMB8D0. In schrematics is connector described as 51575-00401-V01. I identified manufacturer as ACES. But I cant find any place to get it or get replace.
Connector Hell - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: MarkPeeters
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 01, 2020, 02:06:50 pm
content: Hello All, I have been looking for this specific connector for a repair, it's just your normal 2.54mm pitch 4 pin connector, nothing special, but do you think I can find it anywhere?? nope, can anyone direct me into the right direction?Thanks you all so much.

author: pigrew
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2020, 02:13:24 pm
content: TE 926475-4 ()I found that by looking through DigiKey for black housings with 0.100" pitch.Link is here.AMPMODU IV, Housing, Receptacle, Wire-to-Board, 4 Position, 2.54mm [.1in] Centerline, Crimp, 1 Rows, Row-to-Row Spacing .1 in [2.54 mm], Black

author: MarkPeeters
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 01, 2020, 08:06:14 pm
content: Wow, that is exactly what I was looking for. The images of the parts shown, don't look anything like the part itself, but it is what I wanted.Thanks a lot!!!!!
Connector Identification (VGA?) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sixtimesseven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2020, 11:33:50 am
content: Any idea what connector / video standard that is?Thank you(Context: I have this Kodak photo printer (one of those bring your stick and print yourself) thingies which I was asked to repair.It boots fine and the self test is ok. But there is no 5V power on the usb and no video signal.)

author: syau
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2020, 12:22:30 pm
content: It is called D-Terminal, used in Japan TVhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-Terminal

author: bill_c
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2020, 12:28:30 pm
content: Also used on some Mitsubishi products.https://www.digikey.com/products/en/connectors-interconnects/d-shaped-connectors-centronics/438?FV=-5|12298
Connector identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2021, 12:43:31 am
content: Please help me identify a connector, one 2 way and the other 3 way that I need to make a custom cable from my video pattern generator to this 1980s arcade monitorThe pins look roughly 5.5mm apart?

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2021, 12:50:53 am
content: Looks like 'standard' Molex? You'll have to dig through the datasheets to find the correct configuration.https://www.molex.com/molex/products/family/standard_062?parentKey=wire_to_wire_connectors

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2021, 12:59:23 am
content: Don't molex have square key pins? These are all round?

author: aqibi2000
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2021, 01:13:11 am
content: Cut and crimp appropriate fittings

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2021, 02:05:49 am
content: Quote from: NivagSwerdna on February 02, 2021, 12:59:23 amMolex is a company. They make a lot of things, I'm just guessing that they made those. Check the link.

author: Vicus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2021, 09:51:14 pm
content: I think that they are some versione of TE mate n lok connector like this one:https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-170924-1.html
Connector Identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: falcom
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2021, 09:53:14 pm
content: I am trying to identify this connector manufacturer/ series so that I can make an extender board.Row spacing is 1mm and pitch is 1mm (at least as best that I can measure).It looks similar to Molex brand as far as the coloring.Any help is appreciated.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2021, 02:04:48 am
content: Is it actually 1.0mm or 1.27mm? Because 1.27mm pin headers are reasonably common.

author: dc101
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2021, 03:01:26 am
content: Quote from: amyk on June 07, 2021, 02:04:48 amExactly. I would just search Digikey or Mouser for a 2 row 50 position connector and see what looks close. You may have to cut off keys to get it to fit.
Connector identification JST? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Rasil1127
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 12, 2025, 02:43:08 am
content: Hi,I want to find out what this connector is called. it is from an electric unicycle headlight unit (inmotion v11y, v14) I have tried reverse image searching to no solutions. I also asked ChatGPT and it suggested it is some sort of automotive JST connector.

author: squadchannel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2025, 02:46:55 am
content: JST JWPF?https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/index.php?series=152

author: Rasil1127
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 12, 2025, 02:49:51 am
content: thank you good sir! thats it!
Connectors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Spark-Doctor
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2020, 06:13:08 pm
content: Can anyone tell me the type of connectors these are. Am struggling to find them.

author: JackJones
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2020, 06:34:25 pm
content: Mezzanine or board-to-board.
Connectors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lefty
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2021, 11:00:47 pm
content: I need to make this connection but I don't know what these are called so it's making it difficult to search for the solution. I want to be able to make the connection between these two. I can change one, both or will take a pigtail that converts. It's the nomenclature that escapes me. In fact, it hasn't escaped because that would imply that it was in my head, to begin with. I just don't know what to call them. But I need them to make nice.Thank you.https://photos.app.goo.gl/s6baVnisiS4W1GV56

author: sean0118
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2021, 12:59:20 am
content: That's an SAE plug.I never knew what they were called either, could only remember they are used with batteries.

author: lefty
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2021, 06:25:41 pm
content: Perfect. Thank you.
Connectors From Fan Coolers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: 2X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2024, 07:45:01 pm
content: Hello,do you know what is the name (or part number) of these connectors. I couldn't find them in mouser electronics or in digikey. Pitch between pins are 2.54mm (100mil).

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2024, 10:14:42 pm
content: JST XH 2.54

author: 2X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 29, 2024, 09:17:54 pm
content: Quote from: Jwillis on February 28, 2024, 10:14:42 pmAlso the crimps for this connector:https://www.digikey.gr/en/products/detail/jst-sales-america-inc/SXH-001T-P0-6/527371

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2024, 12:29:50 am
content: Quote from: Jwillis on February 28, 2024, 10:14:42 pmNo. “XH 2.54” is the incorrect naming used by cheap Chinese clones on AliExpress. (Even though their actual pitch is 2.50mm!)The original is JST XH, and it is 2.50mm pitch, not 2.54mm.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2024, 12:30:34 am
content: Quote from: 2X on February 28, 2024, 07:45:01 pmThe pitch is actually 2.50mm.
Considering an HP 54510A...BUT...  A/D doesn't pass Self Test - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: KD7NKN
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 04:37:35 am
content: Hello,I have the opportunity to purchase an HP 54510A O-Scope for almost nothing. The only problem seems to be it doesn't pass the A/D converter self-test. It passes all other self-tests.Does anyone know; 1) what are the possible causes? 2) How difficult would it be to fix?Any help you may be able to offer would be greatly appreciated!Best Wishes,Cliff

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 07:04:40 am
content: The HP 54510A is supposed to be an older 250 MHz digital scope, not a spectrum analyzer. It will probably have an FFT function, but this would be severely limited in dynamic range for spectrum analysis.With a bad ADC chances are it would be really difficult (maybe impossible because on unobtanium parts) to repair.There is still a chance that it is something simple (e.g. clock or supply), but it is a gamble - so almost nothing looks like the correct price.

author: KD7NKN
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 12:56:36 pm
content: Thank you so much for the information...and wisdom regarding parts etc. My apologies for mischaracterizing the HP 54510A as a signal generator; I know it's an oscilloscope but my fingers did a poor job of translating.Thanks again!Cliff
Contacts restoration - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: zmaster
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2019, 01:22:45 pm
content: Hello,I've got a robot vacuum cleaner that has 2 metal plates at its bottom that make contact on the home station for recharging.After a couple of years the robot would struggle to dock correctly due to poor electrical contact, it had to try several times.I've replaced them with (expensive) new ones that proved to be of mediocre quality because after less than a year I'm back with the same problem.The plate on the right is very scratched, the other one is mostly ok.So, I was wondering if anyone knows of a way to restore the contacts finish. Is there some magic product that can be simply applied that makes a nice new conductive coating on top of the metal or would I have to go through a proper gold-plating or nickel-plating?I'm looking for a cost effective solution as the robot is already a bit old. I also need to replace the battery and brushes, so I'm on the edge of buying a new one.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2019, 05:49:04 pm
content: I typically buff them with a No.2 pencil eraser and then clean with 90% Isopropyl alcohol.You can also try contact cleaner if you have some on hand.
Conversion of Sharp SD-FX20 - getting keyboard to work with Arduino / ESP32 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: cantata.tech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2023, 04:36:35 pm
content: Hi Guys,I have a Sharp SD-FX20 that I picked up in Japan when I was there last. Now I want to upgrade the internals to ESP32/Arduino/Raspberry-Pi. Forgive me for being vague about which one, to me it doesn't matter much. I was better at Software than Electronics.My question is how to connect the key pcb to the ESP32 / Arduino ADC ? I know how to program it once the connections are made.My approach so far is to use a multimeter and use Black on GND and Red on KEY_1 and/or KEY_2. I can read the first key and it gives me a resistance of 32 Ohms.Where it's not working for me is that I am expecting to read a different resistance for each key.I don't know where I should be placing the Red Multimeter lead, or if I need to connect power.I'm looking to be something logical to me on my multimeter before I write any code.Thank you in advance

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2023, 05:23:23 pm
content: I'm no digital expert but a lot of times, the buttons are wired up in series, in a resistor network, that the MCU will read. Each button press would have a certain total resistance, and the MCU would be programmed to look for those voltages.

author: cantata.tech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2023, 05:43:31 pm
content: I agree.I've just had the idea that one of the KEY_1 or KEY_2 pins may be a power input that is being held high, say 3.3v or 5v.Then the left over KEY_? wire is the output holding the unique voltage for each of the keys.This would explain why my first attempt of reading the resistances with a multimeter failed.Next step will be to wire it up to an Arduino and test my new theory.

author: cantata.tech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2023, 04:07:09 pm
content: I'm very happy that I got it working.I could read the keys by using some simple code on a Atmega328p board in platformio that used the internal pull-ups.Obviously, and simply, the uC pulls up the voltage and the key takes it down to a certain level when the key is pressed.

author: bidrohini
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2023, 01:24:25 am
content: Congratulations! Finally you did it. I have heard the name of the board for the first time in life. Let alone using it.
Conversion Tektronix 754D to 784D, Revision 4 acq board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Nx-1997
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2020, 07:02:57 pm
content: Well, I wanted to do this for a long time. My Tektronix 754D has the newer acquisition board. Serial number B040130. The big 5 chips with heatsinks near the attenuators’ metal housing was combined into 1 chip.For 754D -> 784DR1061 R1062 R1063 R1064 is the order.1 = INSTALLED0 = Not Installed0001: TDS784D (Remove all resistors and populate the R1064 with a 0 ohm resistor or short the pads)1110: TDS754D (populate the R1061 R1062 R1063 with a 0 ohm resistor or short the pads AND leave the R1064 pad open/unsoldered)Remove Capacitors: These are all close to the attenuators' metal housing.C784C783C782C781Also, you must run the SPC to remove any DC offsets/noise. See pictures for more details.I also upgrade my Firmware from 7.1.1e to 7.4e using this software along with Agilent 82357BThankfully, no recalibration required:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/unified-tektool-released-!-(firmware-flash-tools-for-old-tds-series)/More pictures of the scope can be found here:https://mega.nz/folder/YuxlEAgD#Kw8qxl8CwTjGceF1Re8-nAVideo of what the older acquisition board looks like (skip to 21:16) :

author: madao
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2020, 04:12:51 am
content: my converted TDS784D has also this board. This newer board with BGA-IC requiered Firmware 7.xx.A big plus-point: this board doesn't run hot. It stays cool.http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/TDS754I have shooting two pictures from old and new board., see it at TDS754D pictures.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/unified-tektool-released-!-(firmware-flash-tools-for-old-tds-series)/This link has a trap for auto-url-pasting. (manually copy with URL-Tag )A notice: getting of 1 Ghz Bandwidth requires recalibration with Tektronix Field Adjustment Software. It is a pure toture. (500Mhz Typ calibration is OKAY, but 1Ghz... )Greetingsmatt

author: JimS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2020, 08:18:23 am
content: QuoteI have had the 'pleasure' of doing this, fortunately only 2 or 3 times.Last time was when I repaired a TDS754D and converted it to a 784D.Wasn't this banned by the Geneva Convention as inhumane treatment of engineers?Any one know what the difference between Firmware V7.1.1e and V7.4e is?
Convert external USB keyboard connection from  USB to FFC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: marhuum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2023, 02:05:17 am
content: How do we convert external USB keyboard connection from USB to FFC, Flexible flat cable, or maybe FPC, Flexible Printed Circuit, or else, has not confirmed yet the real, to be as replacement that's used in HP pavilion Laptop ?
Converting Tektronix TDS620B to TDS680B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: TekForever
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2022, 05:27:26 pm
content: Solast yeartwo years ago user Nx-1997 converted his Tek TDS620B to a TDS684B by removing a few resistors and caps, adding some VRAM, and then converting his CRT to LCD:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/(help)-conversion-tektronix-tds620b-to-tds680b-to-tds644btds684b/Now, I don't really care about having a color screen or having 4 channels, so in order to convert a TDS620B to a TDS680B would it just be a matter of swapping those resistors around in the first post, then removing those capacitors that were mentioned further on down? It seems to me that the VRAM and other resistors on the digital board are related to the 684B model, and thus won't be necessary if I don't mind looking at a monochrome screen with 2 channels.I know quite a bit about Tek's newer scopes but unfortunately their older scopes are a bit...uh...well, older, and out of service. So thoughts?

author: TekForever
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2022, 01:16:55 am
content: An update: I went ahead and removed the 4 caps and rearranged the 4 resistors mentioned in the original post, and so far it seems to be a success (see attached image).I can't test the new 1GHz bandwidth right now, but as far as I can tell removing those 4 caps should have done the deed. My scope now goes down to 200ps/div, whereas before it went down to 500ps/div I believe. So I *think* it's good, but I can't be sure until I get some signals through...eventually...EDIT: For anyone needing an example of how badly optical distortion can get even when looking straight on at a lens, feel free to use my image
corcom mains filter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2024, 05:15:05 pm
content: I have a solartron 7075 volt and ohm meter,its mains input conector/filter smels like a cap is bad,still working but smells horrid,i have a mains input filter from an ols 2215 scope i broke up for bits,the mains filter i removed from that is marked corcom st40? can i just plug the mains cable into it and leave its ass end disconnected from a load to leave it powered for an hour to test if no caps are going to fry ie riffa etc?.its a bit of a pig to get at the nuts at the rear of the solarcon filter so only want to do it once,hence testing the replacement from the tek 21215 scope.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2024, 05:33:35 pm
content: Yes! The caps are between line and neutral, line and earth and neutral and earth. However, if the line filter is quite old I'd replace it with a new one as the caps might have taken some abuse over the years.

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2024, 08:06:09 pm
content: I dont have a new one to replace it with,i simply just needed to know if it could be tested by leaving it connected to mains for a few hours,thats was the reason i asked the question,i understand what you say but its not an option for me at this time.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2024, 08:33:05 pm
content: If this RFI filter was made using metallized paper safety capacitors (as Schaffner filters were) then it may smoke when powered. But there is no way to know, without inspecting the capacitors, how long that will take. It could take years.

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2024, 04:02:45 pm
content: i wll fit it and put my fingers in my ears,cant be worse than the one already in it that wreaks of a burt cap.
cordless 18v drill,charging issues - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2022, 07:52:52 am
content: Hi all,i have an 18v cordless drill,it has a charger with a red + green led,normaly the red indicates its charging and green = when i insert the battery into the charger,a relay clicks but the green led is on,the battery is at about 14v and not charging,the red charging led never lights up,its a nicad pack not lion,the charger contacts have 21v on them,is there a thermal fuse of some sort in these batterys?,any ideas where to look?,TIA.

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2022, 08:19:46 am
content: Sorted it,it was a wire broke away from the 3rd small contact on the side of the batterys nose where it inserts into the charger.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2022, 11:33:01 am
content: NiCd/NiMH battery packs with three contacs have a thermistor to monitor the temperature.

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2022, 02:23:04 pm
content: Tbh,it looked more like a thermal cutout to me,i have the same on my ebike battery packs.open when hot then close when they cool.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2022, 03:11:06 pm
content: There's also cheap stuff.I've seen some battery packs for cheap power tools with three contacts but neither thermistor nor thermal cutout. Professional chargers use the battery pack's thermistor for optimal fast charging. For example, Panasonic's pro chargers do NiCd/NiMH packs in just 15 minutes. I've rebuilt several packs over years because the original replacement packs are insanely expensive. It's also possible to replace NiCd/NiMH with 18650 Li-Ion cells and a proper BMS.
corrosive environment close to sea air - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mrrcomp
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2023, 08:48:40 am
content: HIMy brother lives in the dominican republic near the sea and as a result his AV Receiver get corroded after 1 yr of operation to the extent that they can't repair and he ends up buying a new one.Is there anyway to protect the circuits boards etc from the corrosion??Would greatly appreciate your inputs/suggestionsRegardsMrrcomp

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2023, 12:12:28 pm
content: I have family who live next to the sea on another caribbean island. They cover their electronic items when not in use. I can't say that it totally protects them from the salty sea air, but it surely slows down the corrosion. Every thing made of metal eventually corrodes there. I believe too that that the rougher the sea in the area, the more that sea spray is developed and increases the rate of corrosion.

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2023, 12:35:02 pm
content: on a lot of my stuff,i find a good coating of new engine oil works well.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2023, 01:16:55 pm
content: Engine oil is hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture until the engine is hot enough to evaporate it off. This will never happen with room temperature devices so it will just retain it as an emulsion and become corrosive. I wouldn't trust any sort of automotive oil on modern PCBs.

author: Greybeard
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2023, 08:09:46 am
content: Quote from: mrrcomp on October 22, 2023, 08:48:40 amYou can try one of these conformal coating sprays:https://ie.rs-online.com/web/c/?searchTerm=conformal+coating+spray

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2023, 09:45:17 am
content: I'd say try a cabinet or something like that - plus a a dehumidifier inside.Conformal coating might help with the PCB, but all mechanical parts like switches and potentiometers will not be easy to protect, unless exchanging them with encapsulated ones.

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2023, 05:12:39 pm
content: Conformal coating spray is also going to insulate somewhat, so just spraying on everything will eventually run you into an overheating problem.While probably not the option that feels the most comfortable in the ocean breeze - room humidity control and possibly activated carbon filtration may be the most effective way to protect things. If your space is relatively sealed and you air condition it, you should be able to keep the humidity to a lower level and activated carbon filtration should be able to remove some sulfur compounds in the air that speed corrosion.I've heard of spray on anti-corrosion compounds that exist, but I don't know if they're readily available or good 'works-on-everything' sort of options. They'd at least require initial disassembly to coat the components.