Pioneer ELITE Pro -150FD plasma TV - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: paronaram
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2025, 05:02:54 am
content: Hello Everybody,About 2 weeks ago we had a winter storm, and after that, my favorite Pioneer ELITE Pro -150FD plasma TV stopped working, it's 20+ years old TV but it still has phenomenal 1080p resolution and very deep black levels. I am really hoping that it can be repaired.Looks like the issue is with the power supply. TV has no "error code" lights on the front, all dark, The only thing that happens when I plugin TV to the power outlet, is I hear relay click ...Removed around 1/4 lb of screws from the back, I was able to get to the Power supply, that has those clicking relays... PS also had a red LED and it's off. I marked with blue tape all output connectors, ansrew more screws, and removed the power supply (it weighs about 5lb) Nichicon ZSPA662IA. I can't find any information about it, if anybody is familiar with this PS please let me knowAlso removed from TV PS does not turn on, it probably has a safety switch, jumper. I was hoping to hear that click and make some voltage measurementsThank you!

author: bigendian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2025, 01:15:16 pm
content: Hi,if it was storm with lightnings, check also all the tracks from the antenna line.About PS, that's a switching PS not that simple to repair. If you hear a tic tic tic it can be in protection.Start checking all components in the primary side of the switching transformer, there is generally a diode bridge and the switching controller IC, with a power mosfet or BJT to generate the duty cycle.Start checking for diodes ion short, interrupted resistors, check the power transistor in the primary circuit, if in short between C and E or D and S, desolder it down an test it offboard.

author: Runco990
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2025, 04:14:27 pm
content: A word of caution on Pioneers.... I had a Kuro myself. NEVER power it on with the safety interlock switch open. It will trip a flag and not function without a reset code. Tape the switch down if you plan to diagnose it while open. Sounds like the input or stand-by supply took a hit. Check for open or shorted components first. Check for fusible resistors, which manufacturers like to use to trip up novices. It shouldn't be too hard to fix.I've done quite a few plasma's. It was always something stupid. Last time it was a shorted film capacitor across the stand-by supply mosfet. A 10 cent part.Best of luck! Awesome TV's!

author: paronaram
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2025, 07:00:00 pm
content: Thank you ALL for reply will start troubleshooting tonight, and will reply with findings ...Runco990, I did power it on with switch in position OPENbut I hear the same relay click, and that was it... is it possible that PS is bad, it did not send the power to request to trip the flag?Will tape that switch ASAP.Where do you get that unlock code? if it's locked ...I can't power on the PS on my bench, so I can do Voltage readings, is there a jumper or something that I need to do so I can simulate it's on the TVThanks again!

author: StrayElectrons
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2025, 10:41:58 pm
content: Your kill switch comment reawakened my sleeping neurons regarding Pioneers. Damn that permanent kill switch! Tape it down first thing! Otherwise need proprietary jig that pioneer shops guards very jealously to re-arm the kill switch.I used to repair TVs back in the day from 2003 to somewhere 2010.Second, plasma TVs are truly terrible investment since two things go against these in general, not just Pioneers, is plasma panel is very infinite (usually short) life-span and driver line ICs that is permanently attached to the panel itself dies with terrifying frequency. Also the large IC with legs is very impossible to unsolder due to heavy copper in the PCB itself. Yes, I tried to do that with junk driver boards.Cheers,

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2025, 10:56:16 pm
content: Quote from: paronaram on February 24, 2025, 07:00:00 pmhttps://web.archive.org/web/20091007042625if_/http://www.elwinelectronics.com:80/roadscum/Field_Service_Guide_07_rev1.2.pdf

author: paronaram
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2025, 07:19:53 pm
content: Switch is taped!Inspected power supply board last night, and I can't find any open or short diodes or caps, maybe not looking close enough.I took better pictures, and was also looking online how Power it on, so I can hear that Relay click, and maybe do voltage checking on TPsI was cheeking Caps and Diodes in Secondary circuitCan anybody remember from your troubleshooting daysThank you ALL!!!

author: suntime
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2025, 09:32:56 pm
content: Hi,I once fixed a Pioneer plasma that wouldn't turn on, you could hear the relays opening/closing and then I discovered the 2 PSU relays were faulty.You never know, it could be the same situation!Regards.

author: paronaram
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 01:47:53 am
content: Thank you, for your recommendation.Did you just test relay contacts? for resistance?Did you had PS on the TV for testing, or on the bench?Thank you.

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 12:51:53 pm
content: I used to repair these. But haven't for many years. Contrary to StrayElectrons I disagree about their reliability... plasma panels were (in general) about as reliable as LCDs at the same price point, the issue was near the end of production some manufacturers produced very cheap 50" and 60" models using very cost down components, LG and Samsung being the big ones. These had higher failure rates. The premium Panasonic and Pioneer models, and the higher end Samsung ones, were generally very reliable machines. Before I shifted it for an LG OLED, my 12 year old Panasonic plasma was completely free of burn in, despite doing over 25,000 hours.Pioneer plasmas have extensive fault codes on the LEDs. If you are getting no fault codes, no LED lit up, it points to something more fundamentally wrong.I would check for 5V / 3V3 standby, it should have one, or both of those. If that is not present then the issue may be with the power board. Check with all loads removed. The easiest option if this is missing is to replace the PSU. But repair is probably easy enough if you have ever done an SMPS. They all work in broadly the same way.If the 5V/3V3 is present but TV still dead, then I would start looking towards the main boards. If I remember correctly, the Pioneer plasmas had a controller board for the panel, an analog input board, and a digital input board with the tuner on it. I seem to recall, oddly enough, that the microcontroller was on the analog board. So you would want to check the input and output voltages of all regulators on that board.There is a common fault on the 8th series PDPs where a single voltage regulator goes bad, which kills the 1V8 rail... Usually this results in "8 blue blinks" however it's possible that another regulator has gone bad (they are all part of the same series) which has killed the microcontroller power and results in no indication at all.The trick I used to prove this out on these boxes was to use a can of freezer spray and cool all the regulator ICs down. Or you could take the board out and put it in your freezer! After that the board would often come to life. It would usually keep working until you power cycled the TV. I probably replaced 20 or so of those regulators as I did a lot of media boxes too which a related model to this uses. Good side hobby.

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 12:53:19 pm
content: 8 blue blinks video which may be related.p.s. in operation plasma TVs use high voltages, 200V DC at several amps for sustain, 70V at about 1 amp for addressing power. Be VERY CAREFUL when operating with the cover off.

author: suntime
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 09:43:11 pm
content: Quote from: paronaram on February 26, 2025, 01:47:53 amHi,If you can, check to see if the same voltage is on both sides of the relay (in/out) when the clicks are heard, to see if the relay contacts are good or if the relay is working fine.

author: paronaram
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 05:41:20 am
content: I agree with Tom66, this TV was reliable and a good performer. It was used since late 2007, and only two weeks ago it stopped. And because of the condition from outside. It has phenomenal black levels, natural colors, and 0 burned pixels. I think this TV is worth fixing!Back to troubleshooting @Tom66 thanks for the pointers, for troubleshooting, but my TV does not have that digital board with that PDP. Power from the wall outlet connects directly to this gigantic PS board.When the board is removed from TV, I can't turn it on... Do you remember if there were any jumpers or anything that needed to be shorted...There are 0 volts anywhere except 120AC, and it's so pact with components, so it's kinda tricky to measure anything.I found the small connector P10 that goes to the power switch, and I shorted it, but still no dice.Over the weekend I will try to freze this board, but I don't think it is necessary, it's a 100% PS issue.Thank you!

author: paronaram
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 05:43:21 am
content: There is no 3VDC on those relays, but it's because of something is blocking this PS to turn On.Thanks again!

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 09:17:07 am
content: No, don't freeze the power board. My advice applies only to the digital board there.Get a picture of the connectors on the power board and I will outline a quick test you can do. That will prove it is a power board fault or not.The third digital board is buried under the main board assembly. All Pioneers have one.

author: Fried Chicken
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 05:59:13 pm
content: Yo, another Kuro owner checking in!Will follow this thread with interest: played with the thought of a recap just because.

author: suntime
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 07:14:50 pm
content: Quote from: paronaram on February 27, 2025, 05:43:21 amHi,IC101 (MIP3910MSSCF) may be faulty. It is part of the STBY circuit.The board code is AXY1169.Take a look at this service manual on page 30.http://kurolegacy.site44.com/Doco/Manuals/KRP-500M,PRO-101FD%20Service.pdf

author: paronaram
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 07:40:07 pm
content: Thank you Tom66, will collect all info and reply...Thanks again

author: paronaram
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 08:05:21 pm
content: Fried Chicken, good to know ! Awesome TV Let's Make it Work Again!Recapping is very bad idea in this case, you will probably invest $3000 in capacitors (have you seen how many capacitors are in this TV?), and it's not 100% if you will fix your issue.As you can see people are saying it maybe IC, Cap, fuse etc.Troubleshooting!

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2025, 09:14:43 pm
content: These TVs use quality Japanese capacitors and I have never seen any go bad, I'm sure it does not need recapping.

author: Fried Chicken
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2025, 01:57:28 am
content: Quote from: paronaram on February 27, 2025, 08:05:21 pmI don't even have an issue; I thought I would just do it ala recapping an audio amplifier, but it seems it's not a good idea so I'll leave it.

author: paronaram
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2025, 06:05:26 am
content: Here is the picture of the output connectors:Please ignore my blue tape markings, it's ref. points so I know what goes where.Thank you.

author: paronaram
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2025, 06:29:38 am
content: Thank you for the information.When the PS board is connected to the other boards, I get the relay clicking (ONLY) nothing else happens...On this PS board, I also have a RED LED that is off. I'm assuming that when all is good, that LED will light up, correct?I ordered IC just in caseThank youPS That T101 is that Standby 3.3V AC supply?

author: Zoli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2025, 07:11:50 am
content: Quote from: tom66 on February 27, 2025, 09:14:43 pmI've just started re-capping a Denon AVR-5700(Made in Japan); no capacitor was over 50% of the original value in any condition on a DE-5000(heat-sink assembly and front panel done so far). If anybody intend to re-cap anything, I would recommend to check/test first the usual suspects: high current/temperature exposed caps, then make a decision, if necessary.

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2025, 08:23:58 am
content: Use a multimeter and test the V+3.3V-STB and V+5.1V-STB. Use the chassis of the TV as ground, power the TV up with everything connected normally, and see what voltages you get on those pins when plugged in. The power supply must be screwed in with all screws since these ground it.If they are missing, double check all connections are made, including the power switch connector in post 12 near that relay you were looking at.If these are dead, remove all connections besides this switch connector and check voltages on these pins again.If they are still dead, replace/repair the power board.

author: suntime
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2025, 09:49:28 pm
content: standby block diagram

author: Fried Chicken
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2025, 01:54:32 am
content: Quote from: Zoli on February 28, 2025, 07:11:50 amWhat frequency did you test them at? 120Hz or 1kHz or?

author: paronaram
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2025, 02:52:56 am
content: Installed PS back on TV plugin all connectors, and power supply clicked !Checked the front of the TV just in case of any lights or display, but no...Start measuring voltages on P12 connector, all voltages are there:1. +12V2. GND3. GND4. GND5. 3.3V - STB6. 3.3V - STB7. GND8. GND9. 5.1V -STB10. GNDmaybe I'm missing a PIN but all voltages are there

author: Zoli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2025, 07:33:48 am
content: Quote from: Fried Chicken on March 01, 2025, 01:54:32 amUp to OL; see attached samples.

author: suntime
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2025, 12:05:15 pm
content: Hi,Is there any voltage at the P1/P2 connectors or the connectors below?If there is nothing, then the main power supply is not working. It may be faulty or not being turned on.Are the 6 fuses (T2A and T6.3A) of the PSU all good?

author: Fried Chicken
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2025, 02:15:53 pm
content: Quote from: Zoli on March 01, 2025, 07:33:48 amWow. That's actually terrible. You're not kidding.What brand capacitor are those? Do you think Denon made it in Japan with terrible components, or maybe it's a poor design on Denon's part?Seriously, that's unexpected.

author: Zoli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2025, 03:18:16 pm
content: Quote from: Fried Chicken on March 01, 2025, 02:15:53 pmI would say is expected: the unit is from around 2000, get a lot of use(~4h/day), and, IIRC, the capacitors are rated for 1000h/85°C. The capacitors(typically ELNA) were top rated for their time, some of models still has audiophool followings.Now imagine what's happening inside the plasma TV, which typically run hotter then the AV-center; I think the Kuro capacitors are higher rated then the AVR's, but 25K hours is borderline for capacitor lifespan for given condition.

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2025, 07:21:46 pm
content: Can you take some clear pictures of each of the main boards, I need to be able to see the voltage regulators on these boards.

author: paronaram
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2025, 07:09:57 am
content: Sure, here are the boards:

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2025, 11:23:48 am
content: This unit is quite different to the one I worked on, it has almost no analog inputs, which is interesting. Also none of those commonly failed regulators so unfortunately I doubt my trick will work on it. I suggest you follow the flowchart starting on page 46, the next step will be AC_DET and MSW_DET signals...https://kurolegacy.site44.com/Doco/Manuals/KRP-500M,PRO-101FD%20Service.pdf

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2025, 11:42:55 am
content: Quote from: Fried Chicken on March 01, 2025, 02:15:53 pmYou can plainly see the ELNA logo on the smaller cap and the Chemi-Con logo on the larger one. Both top brands.

author: Fried Chicken
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2025, 02:31:57 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on March 02, 2025, 11:42:55 amI know both but wouldn't recognize their logos

author: paronaram
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2025, 06:35:56 pm
content: Thank you Tom66, yes this is a different version, but I do have analog inputs (see images)

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2025, 07:19:01 pm
content: Oh, maybe it is similar then. Still, the flowchart is probably the best route for now. It's very detailed. When you come to a conclusion as to which board is defective we can try troubleshooting it further.