hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Need help finding a FPGA board? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: shanecy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2013, 07:30:36 pm
content: I'm an engineering student and I'm suppose to order a FPGA Board. They weren't real specific in what I needed. However, all I know is i'm suppose to be able to run the free web version pack "Quartus II".I would like to be able to hook it up to my Macbook Pro by USB. I have the software "parallels" on my Mac to run Quartus II from Windows 7. So I believe I'm set up for the software portion of it.If anyone can provide a link to a controller that you believe might work great I would appreciate it. My price range tops out at $200.00. Also if anyone has additional concerns in regards to running the controller on my Mac please let me know. I believe since I have parallels I'm set.Again, I'm a student and would appreciate any advice you might have for me. Right now I'm looking on mouser and have only found the following. However, I'm not for sure what to get.http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Terasic-Technologies/P0082/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtg8Gw61H%252bsr73U177jghH2

author: marshallh
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 04, 2013, 07:59:01 pm
content: Quartus II is Altera's software. So you need to get an Altera dev board.Popular ones are: DE0, DE0-nano, DE1, DE2-115.You can get a significant academic discount if you buy from terasic or digikey.You will need the ability to route USB devices through Parallels for the jtag programmer.

author: tanstaafl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2013, 08:03:12 pm
content: I have one of those boards, nothing wrong with it. Guess it all comes down to what you want to do and what kind of peripherals you want to hook up to it...As for running quartus II in parallels, no issues at all, I do it all the time.

author: shanecy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2013, 08:09:22 pm
content: Does this have a USB connection option into my computer.http://www.terasic.com.tw/cgi-bin/page/archive.pl?Language=English&CategoryNo=139&No=502

author: Crazy Ape
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2013, 09:29:46 pm
content: Quote from: shanecy on September 04, 2013, 08:09:22 pmNext tab over, 'Specification'http://www.terasic.com.tw/cgi-bin/page/archive.pl?Language=English&CategoryNo=139&No=502&PartNo=2The bit that says "On-board USB-Blaster circuitry" is what you wanted.Top left in the image.http://www.terasic.com.tw/attachment/archive/502/image/image_74_thumb.jpg
Need help finding an article - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: asgard20032
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2016, 05:12:11 pm
content: This summer, I remember reading an article/app note about choosing resistor/capacitor was not just choosing the right value. The package had an important effect. Longer lead on capacitor have a greater inductive effect, and as frequency rise, the capacitor become an inductor.I try to find back that article, but no success at the moment. I am pretty sure I saw that article (or a link to that article) on dangerous prototype or sparkfun or hackaday or eevblog or another popular hobbyist/enthusiast site like that.Thanks for any help for finding it. When I will find it, I will bookmark it.

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2016, 05:14:16 pm
content: If you are working on a circuit at such high frequencies that lead inductance is a factor, then you should probably consider PC board, stripline, and surface-mount devices.

author: asgard20032
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2016, 05:19:02 pm
content: I don't intend working with long lead capacitor on a breadboard at high frequency. I just find the article interesting to talk about the effect of the package on the electrical property of componnent.By the way, I just found the application note. But I cannot find on which website I found the link to that article (was it dangerous prototypes, sparkfun, hackaday...?).http://www.nxp.com/files/microcontrollers/doc/app_note/AN2321.pdf
Need help finding an ultrasonic Sensor Driver/IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jackster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2020, 05:43:26 pm
content: Hi allI have found some ultrasonic sensors that suit my specifications.https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/pui-audio-inc/UT-1640K-TT-2-R/668-1549-ND/6071961https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/pui-audio-inc/UR-1640K-TT-2-R/668-1547-ND/6071959Looking for suggestions on ultrasonic driver ICs.Need to be able to range from 3cm to 10-15m and at a 1cm resolution (at least for the first 10m).Any suggestions would be appreciated.ThanksJack
Need help finding good hardcover resources  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: alexanderbrevig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2015, 09:48:55 pm
content: Hello everyone!I'm a long time viewer of EEVBlog, a core contributor ofhttp://wiring.org.co(the project that Arduino is based on) and recently I started a company with four other people that aim to make a smart metering solution for retail.I have a background in game programming but now I'm heading deeper into hardware (and oh joy it's fun!). I do feel that I need some kind of deeper understanding of things. Everything from basic electronics to understanding why a trace should be the width it should. I've looked around, but I can't seem to decide on what sources I should trust - then I realized I should trust you guys!So the question is: Could you be so kind to recommend some books on the subject of electronics?I want something on basic passive components, and something on PCB layout and best practices.A software guy, trying to become an electronics guy (beyond the typical DIY hackery).DISCLAIMER: The product we are making will be relatively simple on the hardware side, and I have access to veteran engineers that will review and proof my work before manufacture. I want to read up on the subject not to become a senior engineer in a few weeks, but rather to have the basic understanding so that when people critique my design, I have an understanding and intuition about what they are saying.Thanks guys (and sorry for a long first post...)!EDIT: I feel really stupid, just realized there's a sticky for pretty much the exact thing I'm asking. Will read it thorugh. If anyone feels the need to help a stupid programmer out with personalized advice, it's much appreciated though (and if a moderator wants to delete my post, that's fine too).

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2015, 10:14:19 pm
content: Considering your situation, one book I would recommend is "The Circuit Designer's Companion" by Tim Williams. It's a very good book on electronics overall and it also contains a lot of practical information with respect to actual manufacturing. The copy I have is the second edition, I didn't check to see if there's a newer one.I would recommend the paperback version over the hardcover though, it's much cheaper. I actually bought mine used for something like $20 shipped.
Need help finding info on Atmel IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: GabYoung92
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2016, 08:47:13 am
content: I need a hand from someone to identify an atmel chip in the picture attachedBefore someone gives a LMGTFY I have already tried and can't seem to find anything.Its on a memory cartridge which also has 2x AT28C64B and 1x AT27C040 (which I have been able to read and verify the contents)If anyone knows what this is, your help will be greatly appreciated

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2016, 09:10:55 am
content: If SPX is the manufacturer or model name of the cartridge, it is most likely an ASIC (gate array for memory mapping or IO expander for accessing EEPROM and FLASH?)

author: CJay
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2016, 09:12:01 am
content: That looks custom marked/programmed microcontroller or CPLD/FPGA, have you tried to find the power, clock and ground pins at least?Might help to know what it's in as well

author: GabYoung92
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2016, 09:37:05 am
content: Quote from: bktemp on August 16, 2016, 09:10:55 amThis cartridge plugs into an 'OTC' scanner tool so the branding is OTC.Quote from: CJay on August 16, 2016, 09:12:01 amI was worried it would be a custom job...There is no external resonator on the board but i'm not sure if this is clocked out from the main scanner toolWhen I get back to it tomorrow i'll have a look at power pins and whatnot.basically I have a fair few memory cartridges that are dead and I would really like to get them going again

author: CJay
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2016, 09:48:37 am
content: Ohhh, I didn't even connect that with automotive diagnostics. I should have.SPX and OTC are one and the same, American automotive diagnostics manufacturer, you'll also find them on the (I think now defunct) Bear brand.I'm going to bow out of this conversation for various personal reasons but good luck, hope you get it sorted out.

author: bobaruni
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2016, 01:29:47 pm
content: Just guessing by looking at the vintage, it could be a mask ROM, see if the pins connect to the bus the way an EPROM would?If it's a mask, you can read it.
Need help finding information on two ICs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: pc-coholic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 27, 2015, 07:14:27 pm
content: Hi everyone!I am currently working on a payphone-project and am looking currently at the coin-validator.There were not many ICs inside it - four in total - and I figured two of them out successfully. Now I need your help for the last two ones. The markings on the chips are as followed:QuoteQuoteAs the marking on the first one is similar to the one inthis thread(also starting with QQ1), I thought they might be similar... But having a DTMF-generator in a coin acceptor seems kinda wrong ;-) In fact, I know that the acceptor is communicating over RS232 with the rest of the phone.Any hints on the two ICs and how to possible dump the contents of the firmware and write them back to another device are most welcome.Thanks,Martin

author: chicken
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2015, 07:30:18 pm
content: Pictures of the PCB would help for educated guesses.

author: pc-coholic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 27, 2015, 07:35:49 pm
content: Sorry - you are right... Totally forget about the picture...

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2015, 07:47:28 pm
content: First is a Motorola microprocessor, and the second is probably the ADC and DAC for the coin validator. Microprocessor will be a 68000 variant with onboard peripherals, rom, ram and likely eeprom for storing coin parameters.

author: pc-coholic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 27, 2015, 10:44:52 pm
content: Thanks, SeanB!I guess, I'll try finding information on the microprocessor then and how to dump/flash it. :-)

author: bitwelder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2015, 11:01:45 pm
content: For the other chip, if you search for QMV492AD1 there are many offers on Taobao, but no datasheet or even description.Other QMVxxx ICs listed seems to be from Nortel, so perhaps that's the origin?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2015, 11:23:14 pm
content: the MCU is a custom-marked MC68HC05B6 - seehereandhere. Mask-ROM device so not directly dumpable, but there is a test mode that allows to load and execute code, which could be used to read out the ROM.
Need help finding off-the-shelf White LED step-up converter for small LCD screen - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Cory Parsnipson
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2023, 05:01:46 am
content: Hi, I'm trying to power the backlight for small (5"-ish inches) "raw" LCD modules. I'm trying to test out four different screens with the following requirements:1. 18.2V and 40mA2. 18.6V and 40mA3. 24V and 40mA4. 30V and 40mAAnd my input voltage is eventually going to be a lithium cell, so 3.3 - 4.2V input.I've been able to find individual IC's like theLT1932and theAP5726, but someone suggested that I buy an already assembled converter to make it easier on myself.I've been unable to find step-up converters with similar power specs, so I was hoping if any of you fine folks knew of boards that I could get that fit the bill?Thanks!Cory P
Need help finding similar NAND Flash chips (photos included) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Fliz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2020, 04:02:55 pm
content: Hi guys,what I have here are photos of memory chips from different mp3 players. What I would like is to try to play by swopping this chips for same type but larger capacity and I need help finding them.I can not order from DigiKey or Arrow because they do not deliver to my country but I might be able to get some from Mouser but I am hoping that I can stay on budget and try to find these in some other devices like solid state drives (SSDs) or graphics cards because I can get those cheaply in "non tested" condition.First one is Samsung K9LBG08U1M TSOP48 NAND Flash memory chip with capacity of 4GB, what I would like is to find this type of chip but with 8, 16 or even 32GB (64GB if it exists), doesn't have to be from Samsung.Second one Toshiba TH58NVG7D1DLA87, I was not able to find much about this one except this: NAND-56NM-16GX8-MLC-3.3V-ODP-LGA52 so 16GB NAND Flash chip in LGA52 package. Can we find this one in 32GB or maybe 64GB if it exists!Any help is welcome.Thanks

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2020, 10:49:36 pm
content: http://www1.futureelectronics.com/doc/SAMSUNG/K9F2G08U0B-PIB0.pdfhttp://www.triton-prog.ru/Dnl/Nand_Toshiba_NEW.pdf

author: Fliz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2020, 10:04:13 pm
content: Ok, so something is not clear, by the product code for this Samsung chip it says Density BG: 32G but I know device only shows 4GB as available and there is no version with 16GB or 32GB! (There is with 8GB thou).What verison should I try to find if I want 32GB, K9L(EG/FG/HG)08U1M ?And thanks for the part number decoder sheet for Toshiba chip.Edit: I tried googling TH58NVT0D1DLA87 (128GB), TH58NVG9D1DLA87 (64GB) and TH58NVG8D1DLA87 (32GB) and got 0 results for either of them

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2020, 12:14:40 am
content: Their size is specified in bits, not bytes.Trying to synthesise your own part numbers is unlikely to be very successful since the manufacturers only produce specific configurations; e.g. parts with 2x or 4x the capacity as one may simply be a multi-die package (all pins commoned together except for a CE for each die.)
Need help finding soldering tips for... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Keegan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 04:55:19 pm
content: Hello everyone, I need help finding tips that will work for an old (but has been good enough for my limited use) soldering station I have. It's a harbor freight model 96375. I've been told it's a copy of a Hakko unit. Hope theirs someone out there that can help. Thanks very much!

author: CrashO
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 05:06:22 pm
content: harbor freight 96375Looks like one of the hundreds of HAKKO 936 clones out there.Searching for "hakko 936 tip" on ebay or anywhere else should do the trick for you.

author: Keegan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 05:09:47 pm
content: Thank you so much for the quick response; I'll be ordering some now.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 06:43:00 pm
content: Just be aware that most of the Hakko tips on ebay are fake. Having said that, I have ordered some from ebay knowing they are fake, but for the little soldering I do, they seem to work okay. I did get one that was totally pitted inside the package. A quick photo and email to seller resulted in another one being sent.A real Hakko tip from my local electronics store is around $13 + tax CDN vs $2 + free shipping CDN on ebay. Aliexpress may even be cheaper than ebay?If I did a lot of soldering, I would probably get a real Hakko tip from a reputable seller.

author: Keegan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 11:43:29 pm
content: Thank you for the additional information. Luckily, I have a Frys Electronics somewhat close by who sell them for about $6 USD each.Very appreciative of the help!

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2015, 12:26:00 am
content: Quote from: Keegan on October 08, 2015, 11:43:29 pm$6 USD is reasonable and I would pay that for a real Hakko tip. I suggest getting a 1.8mm or 2.4mm chisel tip.

author: Keegan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 09, 2015, 12:43:15 am
content: Great, will do Thank you! I plan to pick up in the morning.

author: nbritton
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2015, 01:17:36 am
content: What about these tips here, do you know who the OEM is?:http://www.makershed.com/products/soldering-tip-kit-for-soldering-station-mkpe1They are not ceramic, they are solid copper with nickel plating. I'd like to find like a 1mm chisel tip for SMD work.

author: nbritton
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2015, 02:12:42 am
content: Quote from: nbritton on October 09, 2015, 01:17:36 amWell that was easy, It's a re-badged Ningbo Zhongdi. Apparently they only make four styles of tips for these devices. Do you know of a compatible 1mm chisel tip that will work in this iron? I think the collar diameter is 6.8mm, shaft diameter is 4.8mm, and shaft length is 43mm.
Need help finding suitable replacement varistor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tmorris9
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 08, 2023, 11:49:33 pm
content: I am not super savvy on varistor specs (only replaced a few in my life and was always able to just buy the same part number) but I have a Ryobi 40v charger that got a large spike and it blew the varistor in 2 parts. Luckily the numbers are in tact 10s221k and I even found a spec sheet but having an issue (U.S.) finding a replacement. Preferably off Amazon (just because shipping would be free) but I am OK with Mouser or Digi-key if I have to (I know the shipping will be much more than the part). Or really any other online place where I can buy 1 or at least small numbers (will likely never need another one in my life).I am going to try and attach the spec sheet I did find if it helps.Thanks!

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2023, 01:33:00 am
content: 10S221K is 10mm/140VAC and equivalent TDK/Epcos S10K140 full p/n B72210S2141K101. Or Bourns MOV-10D221K.There are many in 10mm/140VAC ratings at Mouser and DK, a few at Amazon.

author: johansen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2023, 03:32:40 am
content: Good luck.If thr mov blew up then the downstream components were hit with 400+ volts.

author: tmorris9
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 12, 2023, 03:36:26 am
content: I can't find anything defective and it was hit with 220v (lost a leg of my 220 in the garage and hooked up a generator and it put 220 to the 110 outlets, messed up a few Fluorescent lamps and this charger, got lucky nothing else went.
Need help finding the problem on a board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mrfixit
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 02, 2014, 05:02:53 am
content: Hi everyone,I'm not an electrical engineer but an avid DIYer, cost of living keeps going up but my bank account doesn't so I find it necessary to be able to fix pretty well everything, there's really not a whole lot I can't fix at this point except electrical devices but that is something I'm trying to changed. I have successfully fixed a couple things (mostly just cold solder joints) recently and as fate would have it I have something else fall into my lap.Friends of ours wanted Rock Band (yea they're a bit late I know) so we came accross the drup set and guitar on a site, bought it for them and when we got it home the drums don't work. the person we bought it from won't refund the money so now we're stuck with s and I figured may as well have a go at fixing it.The drums get power but they do not get recognized by the wii, none of the buttons register or anything.I have attached a photo of the board, my uneducated thoughts are a couple sketchy solder joints on the bottom right hand corner of the 588A Module, as well as C25 and C26 both have solder on them but there is nothing joining them like on the rest of those.What do you guys think? Can you spot the problem? Are there things I should test? (I do have a multimeter)Thank you in advance for any help you can lend.

author: Rudane
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2014, 07:42:22 pm
content: I'd check the continuity of the wires first. Hopefully it's just a bad cable.

author: mrfixit
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 03, 2014, 03:46:43 pm
content: It's gonna be very hard to try and get a redding through the usb connector but I'll try, can't see it being the cable though there's no kinks or breaks and there is goos train relief on it.

author: mrfixit
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 03:29:27 pm
content: Anyone have any other thoughts? What about the solder joings on the board?

author: Zillolo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 03:45:07 pm
content: Did you check the supply voltage of the board? How high is it?

author: katzohki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 06:05:34 pm
content: Reflow any solder joints you like. Can't hurt if you do a good enough job. Just reflow, don't add much solder. I'd start with any joint that had a wire connected to it, or any connector. Clean the board with alcohol while you're at it. Check electrolytic caps for bulging and other signs of failure. Find ground, plug the unit in and probe to see if power is getting distributed throughout the board. There are test points, see what their voltages are.See what results all that gets you.
Need help finding the right FFC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 17, 2019, 08:43:02 pm
content: Hi guys.Recently my old dental ceramic furnace broke down. Since I like tinkering with electronics and reparing them I wanted to fix it (also because this things are quite expensive). The furnace actually works perfect except the screen. It has an old dot matrix lcd which after a while started showning horizontal black lines. I narrowed the problem down to the ribbon cable which connects the lcd controller to the actual panel. But here is the issue. I looked online to find a replacement cable but I found out this has some really specific dimensions. I has to be:- 200 pin (yes I wrote 200 not 20)- 0.3 mm pitch- a type (which as I understand has the connections on both ends of the cable on the same side)Thank you for any help in advance

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2019, 09:16:29 pm
content: Most probable cause isn't the connector, Is the conductive glue who fix on board, Try discovering the region where the problem fix by applying some pressure on regions of the connector, and then apply some heat on that region, In worst case scenario you will need special conductive glue, that is only conductive in one axis ( I forgot the name )
Need help fining a alternative DPDT switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: peps1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 06:08:37 pm
content: Hello guys and girls,I'm building a small headphone amp for a friends xmas present that requires 2 C&K DPDT switches partnumber: PN22SJNA03QEBut, Mouser is out of stock till the end of January, and don't want to spend another £12 on shipping for £4 of parts just to get them from DigikeyIs there a alternative part from someone else that will fit in the PCB, and I can get from say ebay?(Im in the UK)

author: kc9qvl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 12:41:10 am
content: Says the 1200 in stock?CKN1191-ND Digi-Key Stock: 1,246 Can ship immediatelyhttp://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=PN22SJNA03QE+&x=10&y=9&formaction=onorCKN1193-ND Digi-Key Stock: 2,726 Can ship immediatelyhttp://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PN22LENA03QE/CKN1193-ND/262660

author: trackman44
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 01:49:37 am
content: Hi kc9qvi. peps1 is in the UK. Here is a more appropriate web site :-http://www.digikey.co.uk/product-search/en?x=16&y=17&lang=en&site=uk&KeyWords=PN22SJNA03QE+Hope this helps.Will

author: ThomasDK
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 02:58:35 am
content: He asked for other sources than DigikeyAnyway, had a quick look on ebay, these might fit:eBay auction: #http://www.ebay.com/itm/ITT-C-K-PHA2UEE-SWITCH-DPDT-PUSH-BUTTON-RA-PCB-ALT-ACT-SNAP-10pcs-in-lot-/121118476209?The footprint matches, but they are slightly longer.

author: trackman44
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 05:14:19 am
content: My bad ThomasDK. peps1, I have a pair of switches that might fit the bill. Let me know if your interested and I'll send them to you.Will
Need help fixing this amplifier power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: DuckTaco
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 08, 2025, 05:14:58 pm
content: I got an onkyo amplifier and I suspect that in a thunderstorm it went dark. I looked inside and there was a burnt circuit, a diode and a chip (Found out the chip was STR-A6051M-ND). Now my question goes, how do I identify the diode? On the picture D9018.

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2025, 06:09:09 pm
content: Quote from: DuckTaco on July 08, 2025, 05:14:58 pmThe easy way is to search for the service manual for that amplifier (the lazy way is to post the model number here and somebody might search for you!) The hard way is to trace-out the circuit and post the result here. If you are feeling lucky, find the datasheet for the chip, it may have an application/example circuit that is a close match to your power supply.
Need help for a HV power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: pranavAppu
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 05:15:11 pm
content: Hello, I need a help for a high voltage power supply. I have a 12volt 1.5 A DC UPS battery or I could use a 220V 15A mains supply. I've got a flyback as transformer. Can I build a high voltage power supply using this flyback? Or something else? I've tried making on my own. This is the circuit diagram of what I have made.. the transistor failed overheating.Please helpSent from my Lenovo S850 using Tapatalk

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 05:52:01 pm
content: 30Kv at 500mA its "just" 15KW of power, you wont get that from 220V AC at 15 Amps...

author: Akra
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 05:58:00 pm
content: Even as a beginner, please consider the First law of thermodynamics: You can't get 15kW out of a battery delivering 18W (P=U*I)...Apart from that, If you want to get real advice/help consider this questions:How did you build your supply that overheated?What type of flyback transformer do you want to use?What do you want to do with the HV-power supply? (for electrolysis you only need a few volts and, depending on the work a lot of amps )...

author: Vtile
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 06:20:45 pm
content: Quote..waitQuoteNo, stillYou seriously need to stay away high voltage and only after you know everything non HV inside out you can start to rethink this project.If you are really fascinated HV (I mean live and breath it) then you seriously should start to consider it as a career and if so you can start to build any sort of analog LOW-voltage (and current) gatgets and measuring devices as a hobby and go to study electrical engineering (or physics). Most skills and understanding you learn in below high-voltages can be transferred to HV later on.High voltage world doesn't allow mistakes, one zap and you are done and that is the reason beginners should stay away from it.Sorry, but this is how it goes.

author: jeroen79
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 06:41:50 pm
content: Quote from: pranavAppu on February 08, 2017, 05:15:11 pmDo a few quick Volt * Ampere = Watt calculations with these figures.QuoteAbsolutely!
need help for finding a substitute for 11ES2 diode - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Dan75
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 05:46:46 pm
content: Hi all,Looking for help on a suitable substitute for diodes in a Sony AV receiver.The diodes in question are described as 11ES2 NTA2B in a Sony STR-DE875 AV receiver located on the Standby Board(or power board? it is where the mains supply enters the unit.)The receiver suddenly shut on and off and later on I discovered that it had soot covered diodes on that board and blackened on both sides of the PCB.Will also recap that board as well.I found a datasheet of the supposedly same diodes. Tried earlier to add it to the message but that resulted in losing my text and starting over with itThanks,Dan

author: Dan75
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 05:59:05 pm
content: Download link for servicemanual and datasheethttps://we.tl/t-1iUVx4CE37

author: MarkKn
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 06:32:17 pm
content: I imagine any diode that exceeds the rating of the diode you are replacing will work--nothing unique about a power supply rectifier diode. Naturally the cause of the diode failure needs to be determined as the diodes fried would be a symptom--and looking at the caps is a good place to start.
need help for identfy component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: EdisHP
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 03, 2024, 11:34:49 pm
content: Hello, I have a car battery charger it is rated 4A, and need to identify sot23-6 (I think SMPS controller) pin 1. Gnd 2. FB 3. ? 4. CS 5. VCC 6. FET GATE. Marking 2259 13121G. Thanks for help.

author: EdisHP
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 04, 2024, 07:26:35 am
content: More foto

author: EdisHP
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 04, 2024, 07:29:05 am
content: ...

author: EdisHP
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 04, 2024, 09:30:06 am
content: Or how can I pick another controller, what main characteristics to look at?

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2024, 12:19:35 am
content: I could find nothing matching those markings and numbers.But it looks very close to On-BrightOB2262same pinout. Original might be made by them as a guess "OB2259" which it could be? But no data. Sometimes they make crap IC's and erase them from the Internet lol.Normally I would expect something else to have died in the charger, like the capacitors or mosfet etc.Another sub isSG6848TZin SOT23-6, or Chip Rail CR6848S. Both are 70kHz as well.This website is maybe OK to ID SMPS IC's, it does need an update though.https://remont-aud.net/ic_power/

author: EdisHP
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 06, 2024, 07:45:08 pm
content: Quote from: floobydust on August 05, 2024, 12:19:35 amThanks for help! Yes, here was burn out more components (MOSFET, resistors... ) I already replaced them, but still not working. Only this sot23-6 left... I will check your advice later. Thanks.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2024, 10:28:08 pm
content: I'm guessing maybe it's a pin to pin replacement for an OB2281.https://www.on-bright.com/en/index/product/detail/cid/150/id/405.shtml
Need help getting a 74HC40103 to count down - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: gkmaia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2019, 10:08:01 pm
content: My TC (terminal count output (active LOW)) is stuck on LOW, which stops the function to propagate through the NAND gate to TC.If I force 1A HIGH the function reaches TC. So far my gate is working.But even forcing it I get no pulse from P0 up to P7 as sign it is counting something.Have added a switch to bring MR (asynchronous master reset input (active LOW)) to LOW hoping to reset the counter but it also has no effect.

author: MT.Shariq
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 20, 2019, 09:42:23 am
content: If you force NAND inputs high, do you get any change in P0-P7?

author: gkmaia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2019, 12:08:37 am
content: Nope, nothing.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2019, 11:21:54 am
content: I would remove the NAND gate and feed your clock directly into the CP pin to get it to count.You will need to do a MR to get it to pre-load and then count down after MR is removed.You would find it more helpful if you examined the control lines and just looked at some of the lower output count pins if your logic analyzer is only 8 bits wide.You only need a few LSB bits to determine if it is doing anything.See the Function Table in the datasheet (L=Low, H=High, x=Don't care):Apply Reset then remove.RESET:MR=L, PL=x, PE=x, TE=xCOUNT DOWN:MR=H, PL=H, PE=H, TE=L

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2019, 12:18:58 pm
content: Quote from: gkmaia on June 18, 2019, 10:08:01 pmIf I'm reading the datasheet correctly, P0-P7 are inputs, and only inputs.

author: TK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2019, 12:41:55 pm
content: Quote from: Andy Watson on June 21, 2019, 12:18:58 pmYou are right. It is a binary down counter that outputs LOW on TC when it reaches 0 from a default value of 255 or a preset value (P0-P7) that can be set by a negative pulse on ~PL

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2019, 01:03:23 pm
content: Quote from: Andy Watson on June 21, 2019, 12:18:58 pmOh my. How did I miss that? The logic symbol is a dead give away.

author: gkmaia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2019, 10:50:55 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on June 21, 2019, 11:21:54 amThanks for that.I missed the Ps were inputs too. As per the LCD schematics it is getting a decimal 96 as a preset counter.I managed to get a low TC a couple times a couple seconds after sending a MR LOW.
Need help getting back up to speed - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fixit7
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 03:48:03 am
content: It has been about 5 years since I was into electronics.This is part of my equipment. I set the temperature to a high number because of thicker wires.But I think that higher temperature is causing solder problems.I use flux.Can someone help me ?

author: Roehrenonkel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 06:52:43 am
content: Hi,is it °F or °C?No meters?Too high temperature will burn off the flux before it can do it's work.For thick wires/groundplanes better use the biggest tip that is practical.Good luck

author: fixit7
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 06:23:45 pm
content: Thanks Roehrenonkel.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 04:51:16 pm
content: Quote from: fixit7 on October 13, 2025, 03:48:03 amIf the solder melts, it melts, so less temperature should work as well. Usually I go with about 340 for leaded solder. As Roehrenonkel said, you will burn your flux very fast at high temperatures, or it might start to bubble or splatter. For "heavy duty", you can't beat thermal mass, so the largest tip is best. The more bulk, the better. After doing one solder joint, let the tip heat up again.

author: tomthumb100
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 15, 2025, 03:12:36 am
content: Folks add onto the point above, can you mention a few low-mod cost Soldering Irons that work. I am fine with a 120V cord model - 80 watts. Using a fine point, I have trouble keeping tip at F 300. Any suuggetion helpful. (fyi..a $200 iron not in the budget) Solder gun too big for the boards I am working on.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2025, 04:51:09 am
content: Maybe show us what you want to solder.

author: thephil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2025, 08:41:12 am
content: Quote from: tomthumb100 on October 15, 2025, 03:12:36 am300Fis way too low! I typically set my iron to 350°C (=660F). Your soldering iron may not be high-end, but unless defective, it will certainly be useful for most applications – provided you have suitable tips. So before buying a new iron or station, give it another go.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2025, 03:32:04 pm
content: The F word......
Need help Hacking an iGo Power Adapter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tiger102
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 27, 2015, 04:53:34 pm
content: Hi. I hope I am at the right place with the following query. I am new to this site and this is my first post. (As will probably be apparent from what follows. my knowledge of electronics is very rudimentary, being limited to basic circuitry that I studied many years ago to acquire a Ham Radio licence.).I am trying to make a home-made styrofoam "hot wire" cutter, based on a Youtube tutorial that I came across some time back. For the power source I decided to use an old iGo power adapter that I had, as this appears to deliver the level of current recommended. However, when I cut the iGo wire to remove the connector tip, I find that - instead of being presented with two individual wires to give a positive and negative (or "feed" and "return") - I have a confusing mix! Specifically, there is (a) an outside silver multi strand wire, and (b)a silver paper-type wrapper, both of which surround 4 individual colored wires, as follows: (1) a white covered multistrand wire - quite thicker in diameter than the other three; and (2) three other, slimmer wires - one green, one brown and one yellow. Can somebody please let me know which wires I need to use to complete the circuit, which uses a used guitar wire (high E) as the burning element. Many thanks in advance, and apologies if I have posted this in the wrong section.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2015, 07:03:20 pm
content: This one?http://www.instructables.com/id/Hacking-your-iGo-Universal-Power-Adapter/

author: tiger102
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 29, 2015, 12:16:30 pm
content: Many thanks for replying to my enquiry. I have read the piece you directed me to but I'm afraid I was not able to understand from it which wire/s to use for (+) supply and which for (-). I'm afraid it was pitched at a level beyond my comprehension. But sincere thanks for taking the time to assist.

author: fleuroman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2015, 08:57:06 pm
content: that's because Apple hate their consumers... the iGo has current and voltage limiting, because all Apple products talk to the charger. You cant just use v+ and v-... the iGo needs to know what voltage is required by the device, and how much current it's drawing.
NEED HELP I have a new Atten PPS3005S and do not know-  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ProfesserPotts
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 13, 2011, 07:33:45 pm
content: I have a new Atten PPS3005S and do not know how to use the settings on it the paper that came with it is not any help. I am building laser driver boards, And need to be able to set the volts & current to say 2.8 Volts & 160ma, stuff like that. I have a better power supply coming from Madell that I believe connects to a computer so that will be nice. But I still need to know how to use this one. Can anyone Explain how this thing works?It would be greatly appreciated!When I get my new one this ATTEN PPS3005S, It will be forsale. If interested please contact me....Thanks Robrcpotts38@comcast.net

author: hacklordsniper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2011, 05:40:49 am
content: There is an user manual on atten.eu
Need help identifing this SMD - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: hw9664
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 24, 2023, 10:32:30 pm
content: Can anyone help me identify the device in the attached pics? This circuit board powers a LED light show that shines on a wall or ceiling. It stopped working and my daughter said she smelled something burning. I opened it up and found this SMD burnt up. It looks like the first character is a 6, the next character is the tough one and then the 5 is clear followed by a K, so I have 6?5K. The device has 3 pins. The IC that the device is connected to has no markings of any kind. Any guesses?Thank you!

author: antenna
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2023, 10:45:19 pm
content: I'd bet it is the LM6206N3 cmos voltage regulator. If not that one, probably a similar regulator. One lead has filter/bypass caps, another at ground and another to the middle pin on an IC (which is usually Vcc. Cant imagine a transistor being there shorting that big cap to ground. Make sure to check for low resistance at the Vout pad before replacing it. It may not have failed on its own.

author: HwAoRrDk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2023, 07:28:08 am
content: Marking of '665K' is almost certainly a 3.6V XC6206 SOT-23 linear voltage regulator. There are like a dozen different Chinese brands that make them.Bit of an odd voltage, 3.6. One might expect 3.3, but those in the XC6206 range are typically marked '662K'.
Need help identifiying SMD component (AGAIN :( ) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Kaluluka
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2021, 12:38:13 pm
content: Hi!I need help with identifiying SMD component.I have two PCB’s and nave two different component marking for same component.I attached picrures from both PCB’s and SMD Devices marked first one from Year 2018 with 8J6H and in other one from Year 2014 with 8F6E (first marking, on both components, is to short to be capital letter L!).This component is on +12 Volt input from Wall PSU and it looks like double schottky protection in SOT23.Sadly, I could not find any information after days of research.Maybe someone has an Idea what they are?THANKS in advance!Regards to all.

author: mbno
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 31, 2021, 01:37:22 pm
content: This was a hard one... I'd take a guess that they are Vishay Siliconix Si2308BDS N-Channel 60 V (D-S) MOSFETThis datasheet shows they have an L8 marking (though it's not exactly spelt out very well in the datasheet):https://www.vishay.com/docs/69958/si2308bds.pdfAnd this shows the SOT23 marking code for Vishay Siliconix Mosfets:https://www.vishay.com/docs/72763/partmarkinfosot23.pdfSo decoding the markings would give you:L8J6H would be "L8" for the Si2308BDS, "J" for 2017, "6" for week 46, and "H" would be the lot code.L8F6E would be "L8" for the Si2308BDS, "F" for 2014, "6" for week 46, and "E" would be the lot code.Those years would correlate with the board manufacturing dates too. Though I think the max current on those should be 2.1A.

author: Kaluluka
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2021, 01:57:20 pm
content: THANK YOU!Your answer was SPOT ON!I just found picture to proof it. (just do not understand, why L on the begining of marking, should look like that)Regards!
Need help identifiying SMD component  (again |O ) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Kaluluka
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2022, 03:46:30 am
content: Here is one more (GALRNM), looks like LDO, but can find any data yet.Maybe someone knows which part number this is?THANKS in advance!Regards,

author: Dave
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2022, 03:41:49 pm
content: That's an SMPS. A buck converter, to be more precise. The adjacent inductor is a dead giveaway.Pin 1 is the supply input, pin 2 gnd, pin 3 possibly an enable pin or simply not connected, pin 4 is the feedback, pin 5 is the switched output.No idea about the exact part number.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2022, 04:42:26 pm
content: NCP1521BSNT1Ghttps://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/ncp1521b-d.pdf

author: Kaluluka
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2022, 10:10:38 am
content: TNANK YOU once more again for the quick response and correct information!Thing is: before I made request for help here, I was whole day researching for that part number and was on onsemi web side as well, but as you saw, without success.Regards,
Need help identifiying SMD component  (again |O ) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Kaluluka
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2022, 03:37:05 am
content: Hi to everyoneI need forum user help again to identify SMD component:I saw this logo on the SMD before but can’t find manufacturer anymore and it looks like it is LDO like Powetech PT5108 but, it looks little different from that.I have no output on other PIN’s what’s so ever, but checking SMD turns no shorts or something suspicious, that’s why I want to be Shure what this is.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2022, 03:42:46 am
content: ME6211C25M5G-Nhttps://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/1809031123_MICRONE-Nanjing-Micro-One-Elec-ME6211C25M5G-N_C194395.pdf

author: Kaluluka
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2022, 03:59:03 am
content: WOW, That was quick!THANK YOU!But pin 3, ENABLE makes no sense to be Fused and comming from 10 K resistor network...Regards,
Need help identifiying SMD component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Kaluluka
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2021, 08:58:34 am
content: Hi!I need help with identifiying SMD component.I have two same PCB’s and nave two different component marking for same componenet.I have device marked similary with RABR, on both PBC’s and they are Texas Instrument LMV393 Dual Comparators in DDU package.I attached picrures from both PCB’s and SMD Devices (presumable Texas Instrument!) marked in one with BRBAA and in other one with BRGAA.This component is on 3.3 Volt rail and it looks like for High current draw, because 6 PIN contact to one point heat dissipation pad on PCB.Sadly, I could not find any information after week of research.Maybe somenoe has an Idea what they are?THANKS in advance!Regards to all.

author: Kaluluka
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2024, 08:53:41 pm
content: Hi again!After long search: last two pictures above, show VISHAY Si5475DDC MOSFET in 1206-8 ChipFET package.Datasheet is Attached.

author: BTO
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2024, 04:45:45 am
content: Quote from: Kaluluka on June 21, 2024, 08:53:41 pmWELL DONE

author: ArdWar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2024, 04:59:22 am
content: What a weird package.You'd think they'd mimic the usual SO-8 pinout, or at least put more than one pin for source connection. But then again that might not be necessary for the target ID.

author: BTO
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2024, 09:39:27 am
content: Quote from: ArdWar on June 25, 2024, 04:59:22 amIt is weird indeed, but hey, this all contributes to our knowledge and ongoing knowledge of electronics , doesn't it ?Sometimes i sit and wonder... Beginners coming into the industry need to have a knowledge of parts that goes back to the 60s,Now i've been into electronics since the 70s and naming conventions have changed a lot for some things and not so much for othersbut you're right, one would think they would just go with the SO-8 convention
Need help identify LDO component SOT-26 FN5FST - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: JuergenB52
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2024, 04:37:14 pm
content: Hello, I am looking for help with the identification of an SMD LDO in SOT-26 or TSOT-26 design.The LDO still seems to be working as you can still hear the switching frequency (where I can with my old ears)I can make out FN5FVT as a marking, on a second (working) pcb it says FN5FST.Does anyone know the manufacturer of the LDO?