Hakko 808 constantly clogs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: UF8FF
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 06:22:54 am
content: Hi everyone,I wanted to see if I’m having a unique issue or not. Ever since I purchased my hakko 808 I’ve had issues with clogging in the nozzle. It seems like the heating element doesn’t stay hot all the way through the tube. I thought it might be the pumps so I purchased new diaphragms and valve plates, cleaned it all and put it back together. Same issue. I purchased some new tips just in case and same issue. Got new pre filters and ceramic filters and same issue. I then purchased a new heating element and calibrated it — it was working wonderfully! I removed 3 chips from a Nintendo NES board without issue, the suction even was audible... and then it went to shit. I cooled it down and lo and behold the element had a block of solder near the exit point.Am I using this thing wrong somehow? I hover it around and press the button only for about 2 seconds then pull away from the board. I am so frustrated with this thing; I now have 2 lifted pads on that NES board which blows because it’s vintage tech and I’ll have to run jumpers now.Any tips, or should I get something else? What am I doing wrong??

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 08:44:37 am
content: I have an FM-2024 which works well.It does occasionally clog, but I use the wire cleaning tool to poke out any blockages as I'm using it, and also it came with a drill bit in a holder to allow you to hand-drill out any blockages from behind.You can see the tools I am talking about in this link:https://www.hakkousa.com/products/accessories/hj2002-03-desoldering-maintenance-kit-for-fm-2024.htmlI find that allowing it to heat up for 5-10 mins and then periodically poking the wire cleaner in during use keeps it clear during use.I think the problem is often that the flux clogs and won't melt away like solder and just builds up until there is a full blockage.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 11:53:59 am
content: Pace over the years made a few changes to their desoldering irons to minimize blocking problems. A short high suction burst after activating the button, extending the vacuum run time a little after the button is released, extending the heater and fluting the back ends of the tips. This means the solder is more likely to clear fully on the first burst, less likely to clog because a too short vacuum duration was pressed and the vacuum path minimizes cold solder buildup.I've included some videos to watch for pointers on technique. So ensure your desoldering temp is high enough not only for the joint but the desoldering iron, freshen the joints before desoldering, ensure the tip heats the joint fully before sucking, increase the button press duration to clear solder, and wiggle the pins while desoldering so that maximum solder is removed. Avoid applying tip pressure into the PCB as this disturbs the pads bonding.Try using minimal flux as you will be sucking it into your desoldering iron decreasing airflow and creating additional buildup. For maintenance empty the trap before significant buildup and performance is degraded. Change the primary filter more often for max airflow. Use the tip cleaner more regularly.One difference between Pace tips vs your Hakko model is the entire shaft is replaced when you swap over the tip, this helps with reduced wear. Abrasive cleaning eventually leads to wear and will cause solder to recatch. So you may need to eventually replace the back part that is getting blocked.As a last ditch effort once everything else has been tried I might be tempted to use a super light high temp lubricant. Just a trace amount at the bad end. It's a bit of a juxtaposition because you want to loosen up flux and solder buildup with an abrasive tool but you want the inside of the shaft perfectly smooth so that nothing can catch. Edit: I see that it might be part of the heater, unfortunately.Watch 00:20Watch 43:46

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 12:35:25 pm
content: Stupid question but are you letting it run for a few seconds after you lift off the pin before releasing the trigger? If I don't do this, my ZD-958 tends to clog easier.

author: UF8FF
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2020, 01:33:28 am
content: Thank you everyone who replied. I have ordered the additional cleaning tools in hopes it makes it a bit better. I am thinking my issue may be too much flux on the board. Fingers crossed I can get this chip off. As long as I can, I should be able to connect the CPU back together with only 3 jumper wires. Luckily they all go to legs of resistors so it should be fairly easy, I just hate having to do that to a board.Thanks again, I’ll try to follow up.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2020, 02:06:35 am
content: Flux definitely clogs up the 808, and every other desoldering tool I've used. If I have a board with a mess of flux on it I usually clean it off first.Then use the cleaning tool that resembles a little screwdriver, take the tip off and twist that while poking it through the bore while the thing is hot and that ought to clean it right out. With the tip on use the tip cleaning wire to clean that out.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2020, 03:57:19 am
content: Quote from: TERRA Operative on January 05, 2020, 08:44:37 amOnce the burnt flux clogged heavily but still a tiny hole available, sometimes I used a thick cotton string, soaked with degreaser, run thru the hole brushing it, and/or IPA too, it works nicely.Regarding the degreaser, test 1st on other surface with a heavily burnt flux, see if it work 1st before applying to the nozzle.