Flir One Pro Android USB-C M/N:0007 - Solid orange light and no life - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Vondust
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 04, 2023, 12:31:09 am
content: Well, I have tried googling the problem and the closeset thing to a solution was this posthttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/flir-one-gen-3-how-disassembly-(red-light)/.Let's take it from the start. I have bought this Flir One Pro thermal camera used with what seller described as a faulty battery, and after I googled the problem (which seam to be a big problem that the camera don't charge correctly and damages the battery) I bought it hoping that it was just a simple battery swap that was needed.... It was not.Got the camera, disassembled it, removed the battery, checked its voltage (which was 0.00V so dead), proceed to order a replacement battery (brand new unoriginal, measuring 3.89V) , got it delivered and installed and the camera just shows a solid orange colour light.Tried following the official troubleshooting from Flir, that the camera should be put into a charger and be left for an hour then it should work. That did not do anything.When it is plugged into a charger it only pulls 0.00A - 0.02A but if I hold the power button down so the orange light turns off (and still holding it down) it pulls 0.41A (which from this charger is what my phone pulls when I plug that in), but when I release the button it goes back to the orange light and back to the 0.02A pull.Then I googled the problem and found that thread here on this blog and user "Fraser" wrote about connecting to the UART to see if the camera is totally dead. The thread was from December 2020 and the user "Fraser" has in his bio that he is inactive here on the forum.So my question is, can someone help me identifying the UART pads and if someone have had any advice to revive this camera it would be great. I know I took a risk but it saddens me that it's totally dead.I have some experience with soldering and have tried alot of microcontroller projects so I have a USB-UART "PL2303 USB-TTL/ USB-STC-ISP" but have never used it for anything, but resetting a e-fuse on a 3d printer (had a full guide for that).Hope someone can help and sorry for wasting your time if any of you fell like that. Have attached pictures of the camera and the usb meter.

author: Richales
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 10, 2023, 09:48:20 am
content: Sorry I can't be much use in answering your question but I've got a similar issue with my Flip One Gen 3 - solid amber light and no joy.I was going to try the 'buck hack' to make the camera draw power from the phone it's connected to and have a buck on its way to me from eBay - but annoyingly I think this will only work with Android devices and mine is iOS.

author: Silicium81
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2023, 03:45:04 pm
content: I had the same symptoms on a flir one gen 2...After reballing, it worked again but unfortunately it didn't last!https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/repairing-flir-one-with-led-freezed-orange/msg3980018/#msg3980018I insisted on flash memory without success...Finally I mounted the lepton core on a DIY card with USB output. It works as a USB camera.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/chinese-lepton-usb-board-mediacapturefailedevent/msg4743071/#msg4743071

author: JXstaystonight
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2024, 03:55:43 am
content: I went to a lot of reviews when I was shopping for my first thermal camera, Amazon or YouTube. there felt like a lot of ads on YouTube. So preferred to trust Amazon.But there seemed to be a lot of issues with Flir on Amazon that caused me to eventually give up on that option.