hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Fog machine overheating? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Gheist
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 01, 2019, 09:45:35 pm
content: Hi there,I am in a bit of a worry. I bought 2 second hand Chauvet Geyser P6 fog machines a few weeks ago. I have tested them both and they worked. I had noticed that one of the machines was taking a bit longer to warm up. At least thats what i thought.Thing is, these units costed €200 each and replacing them is not an option at this point. So i made a little video to show exactly what this machine is doing right now.I have started the fogmachine a bit earlier so its still a bit hot but at 00:38 the led on the remote unit turns green indicating the unit is ready to smoke. Also the temperature is about 220 which is good.Thing is the red and blue led's are still flashing. Now through the calibration menu i discovered that these indicate the temperature but not the one as shown on the screen. Red seems to mean the machine is warming up, solid blue means ready to fire and blinking blue means the machine needs to cool down.As hown in the video, the blue led is solid for 10 seconds and start blinking for a minute before the unit is ready again. But this same routine goes on even if i dont hit the fire button.Something is clearly wrong but i dont know exactly what to look for.Hope you can help me out a bit on where to look for.
Food mixer Hall sensor ID - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: yaks20
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 26, 2020, 08:38:53 pm
content: HiI'm trying to repair a food mixer where the speed of the motor is detected using a hall sensor.I have eliminated the components other than the microcontroller or the hall sensor. I figured the hall sensor is easiest to replace first. The markings on it are 137 033a.I have swapped it with one with markings of 137 OH33 but it seems the control board isn't registering it and the motor operates at maximum speed regardless of the setting. I think it might be a pole issue?I don't have a background in electronics, just an amateur.Thanks in advance!

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2020, 01:36:14 am
content: OH137, Ouzhuo, unipolar Hall effect switch IC, 4.5V - 24V, marking 137 + OH + xx:http://www.secom.nazwa.pl/shopgold/pobieranie/OH137-E.PDFhttps://mikroshop.ch/pdf/oh137.pdfJudging from the photos in your other thread, "137" looks like a date code (2011, week 37). The part number code is probably "033a". The date code on the Sonix microcontroller appears to be "1132" (2011, week 32).https://www.electronicspoint.com/forums/threads/hall-sensor-id.293299/

author: yaks20
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 27, 2020, 05:04:00 pm
content: Thanks! I'm a bit confused as part numbers 137, OH137 bring up the hall effect sensors as you've linked to. I can't find anything relating to '033a' anywhere online. Is there a way of identifying a suitable replacement hall sensor for the part i replaced? My replacement doesn't seem to detect the magnet rotating on the shaft or else the signal doesn't seem to be correct for the microcontroller.Just to give you some background as to why I thought it was the hall sensor, it was because the motor would start with an erratic speed, speeding up and slowing down on its own. Then it would speed up to the point where i thought the mixer would damage itself. If i shorted out the pins coming from the hall sensor on the control board (either legs to ground) then the motor would slow down to a stop. On removing the short the motor would speed up again. I figured the hall sensor was not providing the correction voltage so that's why i thought it was faulty.I clearly have no idea what i'm doing though!

author: perieanuo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2020, 05:30:27 pm
content: hi,you must check the motor first, if you have a problematic one (like one with problematic brushes), no electronic board will stabilise his speedregards, pierre

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2020, 05:37:05 pm
content: I would start by determining the pinout of your sensor, and its supply voltage. Then I would disconnect the motor and power up the mixer. Now I would monitor the sensor's output pin with a multimeter while turning the motor slowly by hand (be careful of mains voltages). I would expect to see a digital voltage which switches between ground and the supply rail.
For Anyone Needing to Replace Encoder on Agilent 54831 Oscilloscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: bostonman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2024, 04:03:11 am
content: For anyone who needs to replace a rotary encoder on an Agilent 54831M oscilloscope, the 25LB22-Q encoder seems to be a great replacement.After research and with the help of others on here, this seems like an excellent replacement. The visible differences is the replacement has a slightly shorter shaft (maybe 2 mm) which doesn't affect the plastic knob, but may have a slightly thicker shaft. The plastic knob on mine was also missing and I'm in the process of 3D printing a replacement, so this isn't an issue for me. Maybe the shaft will need to be filed slightly to fit the original knob (?) for anyone who replaces this and uses the original plastic knob.The electrical differences is needing to physically connect wires from the PCB to the encoder due to pin differences (see my attachment for notes).Also, the replacement has a plastic tab that fits into a rectangular hole on the PCB to keep from moving. The replacement encoder needed to be filed slightly to fit, but also needed a dab of hot glue due to the width being slightly narrower; I'm assuming the original fit tighter.Testing showed it has almost the same level of clicking sound, just about the same force to turn the shaft, etc...If you wire this and for whatever reason it's reversed, I believe just swapping pin 1 and 3 on the PCB will solve it.This board has two types of encoders, the black shaft has detents and the blue shaft doesn't. Unfortunately I didn't see an option for this encoder to not have detents, so I don't have an answer on replacing the blue shaft ones.
Conformal coating after repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: gjvdheiden
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2023, 10:04:19 am
content: My house has a ventilation unit that (Zehnder ComfoAir Q350) keeps the temperature (warm in winter, cold in summer) inside. (TEMP_SENSOR_ODA ERROR if someone searches on the net for this problem)I noticed the unit didn't turn on, the unit complained that a sensor has an error. Took the unit apart, according to the nice service manual, digged in and found the thing. Replacement sensor unit is of course meant as to be easily swapped. The actual sensor IC that is used on the sensor unit is a SHT30-DIS. That sensor is on a PCB that comes out of a nice potted holder and has formal coating on it. (See picture I grabbed from the net) This sensor practically lives outside, because measures the incoming are temperature an humidity. The rest of the PCB that is potted I'm guessing it translates I2C (from the sensor) to CAN bus.But the problem was a SMD ceramic capacitor that wasn't coated very well or the coating leaked. It was totally corroded and fell apart. Due to corrosion a piece of the PCB trace was eaten away. Checked, and is is a bypass cap and the corroded trace was Vdd. I didn't took pictures, too small. Don't have proper optical inspection yet, just one of those el cheapo magnifying glasses you can put on your head.With the minimal tools and a cap that was to big in size I did manage to fix it. The bigger cap is in an angle, and one side conveniently bridges the PCB trace that was eaten away. Hurray.But I don't know how to repair that conformal coating. (After I taped of the sensor part of the actual sensor chip). What is the sensible way to repair the coating to protect the pcb and cap? Do I need to buy something from e.g. Digikey? Or can I just use metal paint in a spray can? Or a blob of glue?Replacement sensor looks very different by the way.edit: spelling

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2023, 10:37:17 am
content: For such small area after rework the easiest way is to use this:Electrolube APL15MLThe alternative is using spray on coating like PLASTIK 70, but per spray bottle reasonably expensive for such small item.The beunhaas solution would be transparent acrylic nailpolish.

author: gjvdheiden
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2023, 10:57:40 am
content: Quote from: Jeroen3 on May 11, 2023, 10:37:17 am"The beunhaas solution"Sorry tiny non-dutch speaking part of this forum.Very tempting. Thank you for the suggestions. Didn't even know where to look in the big pile of stuff you can buy online.I did had some trouble with ordering isopropanol from Farnell a while back, it got stuck in Germany somewhere. Border control didn't like it or something.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2023, 12:24:35 pm
content: I have a can of this:https://www.voelkner.de/products/19467/Kontakt-Chemie-PLASTIK-70-74313-AA-Isolier-und-Schutzlack-400ml.html
FPC cable repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2024, 01:44:58 pm
content: Need some advice on how to fix an FFC/FPC cable that connects to a keypad. The photos (sorry about the poor quality) show the problem - I either need to replace the FPC where it connects to the kepad (under the green tape, disappearing straight down that hole), or splice a new on onto the business end that's completely worn away. Or somehow regenerate the stiff end.The FPC is 8-way 1mm pitch.

author: squadchannel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2024, 01:53:40 pm
content: This type of cable uses traces made with conductive paint as contact points instead of copper or other metals.Conductive paint may be able to repair the damage, but it will not stand up to connector insertion and removal.it looks like it should be cut to the undamaged area.

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2024, 02:08:38 pm
content: Yeah, I'm puzzled how this was meant to be a robust and lasting connection in the first placeIs there a way to take the protective coating off? I could then use conductive paint to graft a new cable onto this one (hopefully).
FPC connector replacement identification and copper trace repair. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: kaburaginootome
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 07, 2019, 10:17:22 am
content: Good day, gentlemen.I have destroyed two of my FPC connectors because of pull force when opening the interior of a smartphone due to the incomplete weakening of the glue. I would like help to identify which connectors are those. (relevant images are prefixed with connector and fpc)Also I need to repair a copper pad, I have thought of this and someone mentioned there's a copper tape you can cut and stick on the PCB, however, on the copper trace, there is a single SMD resistor that is dislodged from the trace as well. How should I progress with the repair?Lastly, do they sell SPST momentarily switch that fits into holes supposed for a LED? PCB shots in kbpcb file.Thank you.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2019, 10:26:16 am
content: First tell the model and brandsecoundo you may need to buy a defective board to have thoses connectorstercio i dont know your knowledge or capacity to change theses connectors, they seems to be a pain to work withMybe you could find some smartphone repair shop to do the job ?
FPC on board connector for IPhone 12 Pro/13 Pro - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lunacyworks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2022, 06:04:31 pm
content: I am looking for help in find a source for the iphone 12/13 Pro on board FPC connectors, ALIepxress and other providers have several of the connects however I can't find the one for the LIDAR module. It would also be nice to find a board to use for testing the LIDAR module also. Ofcourse if someone knew which Hirose or Molex connector this was I could make my own test board.
FPS 2000 random volume change - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: i_like_sparks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2019, 11:28:28 am
content: Hello,I have one of these oldies but goodies:https://assets.hardwarezone.com/2009/reviews/others/fps2000/fps-2000.htmUnfortunately it has started to randomly change volume every few minutes. It usually starts after a 1-2 hourse of use. Any idea what might be the cause? It's rather hard to debug due to the randomness.

author: benj38
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2019, 11:37:35 am
content: Bad connections or a bad speakers' relay (if the unit has one) are the first things that come to mind.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 21, 2019, 11:41:21 am
content: Changes volume setting or just loudness with volume setting remaining the same?

author: i_like_sparks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2019, 11:49:21 am
content: Just the volume setting. It does have an external volume/on-off knob, so I suspect it might be the potentiometer, but didn't have much success in cleaning it yet. Also I'm still puzzled where the randomness comes from. It's not crackling or so, it just changes randomly every few minutes.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 21, 2019, 01:10:15 pm
content: Quote from: i_like_sparks on September 21, 2019, 11:49:21 amIsn't it an encoder (can rotate indefinitely, no end stops)? Can it be disconnected?

author: thehesiod
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 23, 2020, 11:51:48 pm
content: I have this exact same problem. I just tried soaking the volume potentiometer in pure alcohol while messing with it, not sure it's going to solve the issue. I have another issue as well. If I have both analog inputs plugged into the back of the bass, but only one plugged into my laptop, swiping the L/R fader from middle to enabled side drastically changes the volume. Anyone else have this issue?

author: thehesiod
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 12:16:33 am
content: verified it did not fix the random volume issue. I'm guessing now it's a capacitor problem, I'll have to go through them all

author: thehesiod
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 01, 2020, 08:32:25 am
content: ok I fixed the random volume issue (I think). Wrote a blog entry about it here:http://hesiod.blogspot.com/2020/06/fixing-random-volume-on-cambridge.html

author: i_like_sparks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2021, 03:22:46 pm
content: It's been some time but I wanted to be sure that the issue is fixed. I swapped the volume potentiometer with an identical newly bought one. This requires opening the little black controller, but isn't too hard. The issue has been fixed now for several months.
FRAM/NVRAM from ebay - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Greybeard
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2021, 11:12:09 am
content: I've bought 2 "new" batches of FRAM from same ebay seller.First batch, delivered in IC shipping tubes, has random data or sort of data pattern.Second batch, delivered in heat-sealed carrier tape, is complete empty (FF).What do you think is the probability, that the first batch is used/recycled components?How can I test the reliability (data retention) of those questionable items?

author: CJay
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2021, 11:23:22 am
content: Probably used but I've had NOS EEPROM devices from a UK seller (one I've actually met and trust) which contained data, I have a feeling it was probably stock that had been programmed by the manufacturer (Microchip) for their client and latterly sold as surplus or bankrupt stock.No idea if you can tell how many times it's been written to, I suppose you could random sample a few and stress test it, or just throw it back at the seller and request either parts in sealed tape or a refund.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2021, 10:18:23 pm
content: If you want to post the data for us to inspect, maybe we can find something interesting in it...Even if it's used, all the data I've found on FRAM suggests the number of write cycles is so high as to be essentially infinite, so unless what was previously using it was dedicated to abusing it as much as possible, you're unlikely to even notice.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 05, 2021, 10:38:45 pm
content: Quote from: Greybeard on January 05, 2021, 11:12:09 amQuite high. To investigate, we would need some photos at least, preferably from top, bottom and side.

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 06, 2021, 08:44:38 pm
content: I'd say 100% they are used/pulls. All of the ones I've purchased have been(even if advertised as new), but all test fine and have had zero issues.
Free Schematics Download Site - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: TechE
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 27, 2023, 04:30:53 am
content: If anyone needs schematic diagrams for any pro audio gear like what musicians use, such as guitar amps, power amplifiers, vintage tube amps, musical gear like keyboards, effects pedals, guitar wiring diagrams and service manuals, check outhttps://schematics.ca. I'm a road musician and an electronics tech and I got schematics for just about every piece of gear in the band from this site and they are free to download. It's always good to be prepared in case you fry something while on tour.https://schematics-free.comhas a lot of free audio schematics as well. Hope this helps!

author: Shonky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2023, 05:23:51 am
content: Presumably this is your site since you joined specifically to promote it.Don't see anything particularly special there.Why have two separate domains?

author: TechE
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 27, 2023, 06:08:10 am
content: No they are not my sites. I know how to re-build a power amp but have never built a web site before. I just found them very useful in the past is all and was just passing it on.

author: Greybeard
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2023, 06:28:45 am
content: Without doubt one site copied the other (maybe one is a mirror of the other) but they have partly slightly different content.I found nothing special...
Freestyle 5 Oxygen Machine Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: philip
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 03, 2021, 01:31:34 am
content: How do I fix a Freestyle 5 oxygen machine?I have tried to use a variable power supply to power it on, but it doesn't work. I am guessing that it needs some sort of voltage signal from the battery balance leads, but I am not sure what.I tried connecting the switch pin to gnd and 5v, but neither worked. I used 16V to power it, which is the correct voltage. I have rebuilt the battery pack, but it wasn’t working after I did, even though the batteries and connections are good.Here is a google photos link to the oxygen machine:Oxygen Machine (https://photos.app.goo.gl/DjJuDpVmGcz4jmJu6)

author: highpower
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2021, 03:22:00 am
content: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiGh_LPi-HvAhVxdc0KHRLICHoQFjACegQIAhAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Ffiles.chartindustries.com%2Ffreestyle5_mn179-1_service-manual_revB.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0qUbWd3jIwPIYy3AJ0B182Good luck.

author: philip
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 03, 2021, 03:36:49 am
content: This manual does not have any circuit diagrams of the machine. It just says to replace parts, which are very expensive and I already rebuilt the battery pack.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2021, 04:45:49 am
content: Was it working before the battery failed? It could be difficult to fix it if there's actually something wrong with it. You may have to reverse engineer it enough to understand how the circuit works.

author: philip
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 03, 2021, 04:01:51 pm
content: It was sort of working, but the battery was causing the machine to malfunction and only work for maybe 10 -30 minutes.

author: philip
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 11, 2021, 05:42:05 pm
content: I managed to fix the issue by connecting and disconnecting the charger. I guess it is some battery switch for charging and maybe for protection.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2021, 11:46:38 pm
content: Probably had to reset the battery management. I had assumed you had already tried that.
Freewave transceiver problem someone has experience? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rauldm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2022, 02:59:01 am
content: Hi, I have few Freewave transceivers at 900 MHz, I have one with particular problem, doesn't lock link, is unstable connection and has very high noise in diagnostics dialog generated from transceiver, basically works next way, green light indicates tracking, solid red light, indicates stable link. In this case red light is blinking without variable frequency, finally I open for did some testings, power supply is a buck converter and works fine, in RF part it has an LMX2316, this circuit it has PLL and controls a VCO through charge pump converter, voltage output from charge pump converter feeds a circuit named RF Mixer, is SA615D, atached Vcc waveform from oscilloscope. Someone has worked with transceiver or with LMX2316?Yellow waveform is Vcc of SA615DBlue waveform is charge pump output from LMX2316Regards.
Fridge LED Module Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: CowDoc
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 18, 2022, 05:56:23 am
content: I have a Kenmore fridge that uses W11130208 LED modules for lighting. Many other brands do as well. Unfortunately, replacements cost over $30. The W10695459 LED board itself is in the mid $20s. The only component on the LED board is an SMD 3030 LED (3x3x0.75mm). We had a power surge and I needed four. That would cost $120, $100 or... 40 cents. Guess which I picked.Three or four W11130208 LED modules are usually connected in series, depending on the brand of fridge and location. I measured 3.125V @ 350 mA across one LED. Cree makes a JK3030AWT-P-H50EA0000-N0000001CT-ND (3.2V @ 350 mA) LED. They’re available through DigiKey, Mouser and others. I ordered 20. The shipping cost three times as much as the LEDs.A cheap Chinese hot air station (Yihua 8786D-I) and some Chip Quik NC191AX15T5 solder paste (my preference) and it was done. The total cost was less than $8... and I have 16 spares.I read quite a bit online about these LED modules. Everyone replaces the whole unit and I didn’t see anyone identify a replacement LED. What a waste. Your choice, $30 or 10 cents. The Cree LEDs appear to have the same physical, electrical and brightness characteristics as the originals. They have been working well. I hope this saves someone a few bucks.

author: MikeK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2022, 12:53:51 pm
content: Where did you get a hot air station for under $8?

author: gdewitte
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 18, 2022, 02:05:03 pm
content: He must be referring to the component cost as the hot-air station is ~ $100.

author: rfengg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2022, 03:51:16 pm
content: The YIHUA 8786D varies a bit in price over the months.......got it from Amazon for $68 around 4 months ago and have been really happy with it.The tips that come with the soldering iron have come a long way too......they seem much better than what it used to be.I was considering replacing the Yihua tips with Hakko's but the Yihua ones seem to do a pretty decent job.

author: CowDoc
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 18, 2022, 07:22:54 pm
content: The LEDs cost 10 cents each or less than $8 with shipping and tax. I already had the solder station and solder paste, as many people do.My main intent was to identify the specific LEDs used in the modules. I couldn't find that information anywhere. The LEDs also come in different color renderings (70, 80 and 90% accuracy) as well as different color temperatures (2200-6500 K). The LED I listed is readily available and seems to be the same as the original. Other similar models should work as well.For occasional repairs, the Yihau 8786D-I has worked really well for me. As rfengg noted, the newer -I version is definitely improved. I've seen it for $70-$100 with accessories. That's still less than a few LED modules. Any hot air station is an investment that will pay for itself eventually. Cheaper versions are less than $40.
Fridge Lights - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Turbochardged
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 06:58:27 pm
content: So I have a bunch of Jen-air fridges with these single LED pucks (W10843339) they are just a single 3030 SMD chip, nothing else. The knock-off ones from amazon work, but don't last. So i figured that i could just solder on new leds that are more in spec, and cheaper in bulk. I don't know the voltage or mA for the circuit (still trying to figure that out). I do know the old ones have a Forward Voltage of 2.5v and the amazon ones have 5v. The base (solder pads) appears to be of a 1W model. They are wired in series with others in a Christmas light effect. I'm not as smart as a lot of you on here, but I would appreciate any help or insight. Or how i could test them out of circuit to find those values.
fridge thermostat replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2020, 02:04:25 pm
content: Hi all,ive a logik fridge model LUL50s13 feidge with a buggered thermostat,the old one has 3 terminals,the new one has just two,can it be made to work with the 2 wire instead of 3?,cheers in advance.

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2020, 02:12:27 pm
content: heres a pic of the original stat wireing diagram.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 02:19:59 am
content: one of them looks like a ground of the thermostat case.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 04:25:10 am
content: Yes you can ignore than third wire, it's just the ground. There are only two wires going to the thermostat in that diagram that carry current.

author: perieanuo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 01:22:42 pm
content: hi,be careful and 'ignore' the ground connector, identify this one with a multimeter, if you gonna plug the new thermostat between L and Earth you gonna trip the breakerdon't trust the colours

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 01:32:50 pm
content: might be the original stat has 3 connections,plus earth, were 2 of the connections are commoned. power in goes to 1 of these terminals and the second connection is the internal light via a switch
Fried component ID? Netgear GS308E Switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: esuohdica
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 09, 2024, 07:48:09 pm
content: Could anyone help in identifying the blown component here? Symptom is no power-up and U1 i/c has fried itself!It looks something like 1AD?? so i'm thinking its either a regulator or start up sequencer of some sort?I can't find any schematics online, so i'm hoping either someone has one of these and can take a look inside, or knows what this i/c is?DC input is 12v. Pics attached.Cheers Mark

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2024, 10:35:33 pm
content: Seems like aMP1470?It's outdated, replaced by theMP1476.

author: esuohdica
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 25, 2024, 02:40:02 pm
content: @DavidAlfa - Thanks so much this fixed it for £2.50 and some ridicoulous soldering :-D
Fritzbox 7580 Repair: Help identifiying a component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Popeye
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 31, 2019, 06:24:42 pm
content: Hello,I´m repairing a FritzBox 7580 (DSL Router) at the moment and need help identifiying a component.SMD Marking is: APEF 251My idea is some kind of power ic.Somebody have an idea?B.R.Popeye

author: Popeye
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 31, 2019, 06:26:10 pm
content: Full Board

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2019, 07:28:41 pm
content: http://www.smdmark.com/en-US/search/code?id=APExMP8864GQ, Monolithic Power, 4A, 4.5V - 21V High Efficiency Synchronous Step-Down Converter with I2C Interface, marking APEx+xxx,QFN3x3-15:https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/documentview/productdocument/index/version/2/document_type/Datasheet/lang/en/sku/MP8864/
Fronius Transpocket 2000 welder repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Gassan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2022, 04:23:31 am
content: I have come across a weird, two-wire component that looks like a fuse or temperature sensor. A picture is attached. This component is fixed near to the power modules (used in place of igbt or mosfet) of the welder. I just want to identify the component.The welder is bahaving weirdly. All the electronics on the main and control board seem good. The welder is putting out 90 vdc as specified. But it is failing to weld. I'm assuming that the control board is limiting the power due to a fault in some power components.Please let me know if anyone is familiar with the component in the picture. I appreciate your a lot.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2022, 05:15:54 pm
content: Fronius TransSynergic 4000 Service Manual:https://www.manualslib.com/download/1283002/Fronius-Transsynergic-4000.htmlPage 85 identifies the component as a TP 592S temperature sensor (item number 43,0001,0600)."The TP 592S temperature sensor (item number 43,0001,0600) is an electronic temperature sensor. It has an integrated temperature/current converter chip. The chip is integrated into the plastic housing and provided with a pluggable Molex connection."Page 86 has detailed technical data.Other resources ...https://ipv4.google.com/search?q=filetype%3Apdf+"TP+592S"
FS7M0880 Fairchild Power Switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Arts
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2023, 10:04:34 pm
content: This is the TO-3P-5L device as used in the switching power supply of the Metcal/OKI PS-900 soldering stations. Now a discontinued part #. Anybody know if there is a successor part or perhaps what Metcal is now using as a replacement? Thanks!
FSH3 Display broken - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: EA7HOG
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 08, 2024, 04:46:28 pm
content: Hello friends, they just gave me an FSH3 and just before giving it to me, two meters away from me the bag with the FSH3 inside fell to the ground, later upon receiving it, I turned it on and I noticed the screen problem, it could have existed before? I don't know, I took a photo and the next day I noticed that the stains had increased, this is already worrying, at the moment they don't affect the use but the days go by and without moving it on the table, they continue to increase, I wonder if The screen glass has broken, replacing it is not a problem but I would like to find some information about the model, I appreciate any information.https://ibb.co/dfRJqpY

author: vishaldotgupta
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2025, 05:00:00 am
content: I worked for rohde Schwarz in india. I may be able to help youThough this model got discontinued about 10 years back
FT100 Needs repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ldurmon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 12, 2025, 04:58:04 pm
content: I am looking for someone that can repair an FT100. I have one that has no output on any bands. The finals all look good. The guy I got it from used it in his truck and one day it started flashing the display and would not transmit or receive. I do not have any equipment to attempt repair and align the unit. From what I have found I believe it may be something similar to what Xrunner posted about. I am located in Texas and would love to have this unit repaired. It powers on fine but after doing a reset to try troubleshooting it it will not power off with a press of the power button. I am a fairly new ham and trying to get some equipment with a small budget. All help is appreciated!!!

author: WattsThat
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2025, 05:29:23 pm
content: Factory Yaesu repair should be available, they are located in California. Repair is $90/hour plus parts.There are plenty of independent repair sources, it would be helpful if you posted where you are in the US.All that said, they’re all now more than 20 years old and they’re very dense, compact radios with lots of bits and pieces since they’re hf/vhf/uhf. While they were decent radios in their day, if the rig has been bouncing around in a truck for lots of years, it may not be worth the cost to repair, given what you can buy new for these days, especially if you don’t want all bands in one box.

author: ME
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 01:27:38 am
content: pll out of lock?.

author: ldurmon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 01:30:12 pm
content: Not sure. I don't have test equipment but that's one theory. Probably due to bad cap or resistors.

author: ME
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 06:08:09 pm
content: firstly download the service manual,normaly there will be a pin that pulls low or high on a chip when the pll unlocks, read the service manual locate the chip and check the pin that signals unlock status, a multi meter should do it!.
FT818 minor scratch to display - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: titanif
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 17, 2023, 10:34:15 am
content: I've had the 818 less than a month and have a tiny but annoying scratch on the display.I'm usually very careful with my equipment so not sure how this happened.Can these displays be fixed or replaced, or would it mean replacing the whole front of the radio ?

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2023, 11:46:05 am
content: Quote from: titanif on October 17, 2023, 10:34:15 amA Yaesu FT-818? Well the actual display is covered with a plastic "window" which is what faces the outside world. That's what you scratched (unless you took the radio apart and actually scratched the LCD display). Without a picture to look at ... sure you can try to polish the plastic at your own risk.I've polished similar sorts of things and it works. Perhaps get one of those automobile headlight restoration kits or something like that. Can't say it'll work for sure but it'll probably make it better. Unless it's a deep gouge - no pic to look at.

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2023, 03:45:42 am
content: pic needed FFS!!!
FTDI FT4232HL Issues With Overo Gumstix - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: craigopie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2019, 02:22:00 am
content: Aloha,I have a custom project board that is using an Overo Gumstix as the processing unit. My issue is that the Gumstix is not identifying the FT4232HL during startup and operation. I am trying to use the FT4232HL as a separate USB Host Bus for a single external device that is providing a TTL input with baud rate of 921600.I am using the USBH_DM and USBH_DP for data and GPIO168_USBH_CPEN to drive a 5V source to my USBH_VBUS. I do not have the EEPROM for my FT4232HL as the manual says it is optional. I have the following pins connected to the following sources:GND:pin 13pin 10pin 51pin 47pin 35pin 25pin 15pin 11pin 5pin1Vcc 3.3V (200mA) Source:pin 50pin 14pin 4pin 9pin 20pin 31pin 42pin 56Vcore 1.8V Source:pin 12pin 37pin 64pin 4912 MHz Oscillator:pin 2 -> 312KOhm Resistor:pin 6USBH_DM:pin 7USBH_DP:pin 8Serial Device (TTL):pin 16pin 17Checking Pin 60 (PWREN) I get a Logic 1 (expected Logic 0)Checking Pin 36 (Suspend) I get a Logic 0The device indicates that it is suspended. All continuity checks were completed SAT. I tried loading a custom driver for the chip but that didn't work either so I went back to the FTDI supplied drivers. I am testing for the chip not getting enough power since it is rated for 150mA and I have a 200mA power supply for it, and have already removed the indicating LED to limit the current draw. But I don't think that is going to be the issue since I am trying to get it to startup without having a load on it.Has anyone had issues with this in the past and if so how did you fix it? I know there are a lot of smarter people on this site than I am alone so maybe we can figure this out together. Thanks in advance for your help.Mahalo,Craig

author: Wiljan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2019, 08:51:46 am
content: Did you ever find the problem?I have a FPGA board with a onboard FT4232TL and when connecting the USB cable I get 4 Com port's up in the device manager windows 7 64bit so far so fine.They stay there until I start using 1 of the portsWhen open 1 of the comports the data flows well in / out but after 0-5 min all 4 com ports goes away from the device manger pin 60 PWREN are Low and pin 36 SUSPEND are 3.3VIf I reset the FDTI they comes back againI have disconnected the EEPROM to eliminate any crazy settingsUsing FTDI driver 2.12.28.0I also have a separate FT4232H mini modules using that I never see the problem on the same PC
Fuji finepix s2 pro - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jamarjan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2025, 06:31:39 pm
content: I recently bought a finepix s2 pro camera body cheaply.The camera boots normally but is hung up in the firewire data transfer function.It is an early DSLR that is a hybrid of an analog nikon body and a fuji digital back. It even has two separate battery power sources.I've run all possible tests and it looks like the nikon body is functional - it responds to changes in exposure parameters, it is possible to force the mirror up and the shutter open in sensor cleaning mode.The rear digital part is stuck. I read the user and service manual, disassembled and assembled all the boards and connections. I found no liquid damage, corrosion or loose ribbons. I tried to unsolder the internal backup battery. Run the camera with the sensor module unplugged.I assume the camera was improperly disconnected while communicating with the computer.I also tried connecting to the computer via firewire - unfortunately the camera is not detected. But I'm not 100% sure if I have the right software (I downloaded from the Internet because I don't have the original cd).The block diagram shows a RESET input to the CPS chip but I don't know how to use it.There is also an external rom chip, but I don't know if there is any point in trying to mess with it.Does anyone have any idea how I can further try to fix the camera?Swapping plates from another camera doesn't make sense because the sesnor has to be calibrated, and there is no access to service software.In addition, these cameras are notorious for failing sensors so I treat my repair as a learning task :-)

author: jamarjan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2025, 08:31:12 am
content: Little updateUpon further investigation, I found a bulge on the chip responsible for firewire communicationsit is panasonic MN864411GTAfter desoldering and assembling, the camera behaves differently - reports a general system error.It looks like the main conterroller is not suspended and the cause of being stuck in firewire transfer mode is a faulty chip.I found only a vague datasheet informing that the chip is designed for optical drivesUnfortunately I cannot find the chip itself on the internetDo you have any idea where i can look for it? Or the only option is to buy another damaged camera and swap IC?

author: jamarjan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2025, 11:42:04 am
content: Repair successfully completed!After replacing the chip, the camera came back to life.In addition, I discovered a website through which you can search in which cameras the ICs were used.https://photo-parts.com.ua/parts/?part=MN864411GTThanks to this, I obtained a firewire chip from a s20 pro camera with a damaged sensor.

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2025, 06:38:06 pm
content: Excellent.Camera's are small, and mechanically 'difficult' to work on. It is generally not easy to repairs these things.
Fuji HS10, need to find a connector. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: screwbreaker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2020, 09:33:56 am
content: Hi there.I'm trying to fix a Fuji HS10. I need to replace the connector for the top unit with the on/off switch.The connector must have the same specs of this one:https://lcsc.com/product-detail/FFC-FPC-Connectors_JUSHUO-AFE03-S23FMA-1H_C262543.htmlhttps://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/1811021329_JUSHUO-AFE03-S23FMA-1H_C262543.pdfExcept that the connections must be on the top. Because the flat flex have the contacts on the top side.Many thanks in advance to everyone for the help.
Fujifilm X-T20 Shutter Issue (Optical Transmissive Sensor) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lilfarhad94
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 04:53:26 am
content: Hi all,I have a Fujifilm X-T20, and the shutter is not working. The camera seems to think the aperture is stuck and gives me an error message asking me to turn it off and on again (Turn off the camera and turn on again).I noticed that there are two optical sensors near the shutter. Each sensor has four pins, with two of them connected together, meaning there are only three wires per sensor going to the mainboard. None of these wires are connected to ground.When measuring the voltages during operation, I found the following values:- Sensor 1: 3.3V, 2.2V, 0.02V (measured while it was inside the housing, so it was blocked by the curtain)- Sensor 2: 3.3V, 0.151V, 0V (sate is unclear because it's inside the body)It seems like Sensor 2 may be malfunctioning since it shows 0V (not ground), but I'm not sure what the correct voltages should be.Any advice on what the expected voltages should be for these sensors or how to test them with a mutimeter (resistance and so on)?Thanks!PS: I don't know if my question belons here or into the thread for beginners.

author: KrudyZ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 10:40:41 pm
content: One of the voltages should change when you stick something into the slot to block the light.The change should be fairly significant, since it very likely goes directly to a digital input on the MCU / SOC of the camera.

author: lilfarhad94
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 21, 2025, 07:08:58 am
content: Hello,Thanks for your suggestion. I finally had some time to do further experiments and discovered that sensor 2 is likely the cause of the error message. I was able to carefully lift the sensor out of the gearbox housing and test it that way. When I shine light from a halogen lamp on it, the error message no longer appears. In this condition, the voltage readings are as follows: 3.3V, 0.151V, and 3.1V. As I increase the distance from the light source, the voltage declines, and when it reaches around 1V, the error message reappears.Sensor 1 seems to be functioning correctly, with the voltage readings changing to 3.3V, 2.2V, and 3.1V when it's not obstructed. Based on this, I suspect that the LED in sensor 2 is faulty.When I measure sensor 1 in diode mode, I observe a forward voltage of 1.1V, and the pin with 2.2V is the cathode of its LED. However, when testing sensor 2 in both diode and resistance modes, I can't measure anything it shows OL.I have attached pictures of the defective sensor for reference. How can I find the correct replacement for it? Is there maybe a package name for this type? (It's about 3x2x3 mm. I misplaced my calipers, so I have to measure it later)Thanks!

author: KrudyZ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2025, 05:34:41 am
content: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/photointerrupters-slot-type-transistor-output/548?The one you have might be made by Sharp
Fujitsu E754 EC bios update killed pc - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: pienari
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2023, 05:44:31 pm
content: I have been looking for workking bios and ec file.https://aijaa.com/Xe3fQ7Board is CP620570 , CP642134-X3https://aijaa.com/dBYLwbI removed both eeprom chips and read data.25Q3225Q80Bios file size is 4mb and ec is 1mbBios file was readable but ec was blank.I have tryed all files found from net but no luck.Have anyone backup files?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2023, 06:32:25 pm
content: Is this the update?EC Firmware Update for LIFEBOOK E7x4 vPro:https://support.ts.fujitsu.com/indexdownload.asp?Softwareguid=1f74b5ad-5303-45ae-b310-abff9b23cad2If so, I was able to extract a file named 4C46D217.EC1 from the .exe by using 7Zip. This looks like it might be the EC image you are looking for. I don't know if there are any reserved, unique regions, but it would be worth a try.

author: pienari
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2023, 08:26:11 pm
content: Hi.This is non vPro model.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2023, 08:41:31 pm
content: Can you post a link to the update?Is this it?https://support.ts.fujitsu.com/IndexDownload.asp?SoftwareGuid=9651CBB1-3E84-44E1-A2CE-064402CC018Ahttps://support.ts.fujitsu.com/IndexDownload.asp?SoftwareGuid=C8A56C4A-84E2-47BB-988E-79A9BAB25F02Each package appears to contain an EC1 EEPROM image.

author: pienari
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 05:12:30 am
content: Hi.I really dont know, laptop was dead when i get it for free.Thank you for the links, i havent found those from Fujitsu page.I downloaded both your linked files and cheked that EC1 file.It is a bit smaller file size vs. what i found from web.I have to flash that to eeprom and test.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 08:25:31 am
content: I found this, but the EC file looks nothing like the update:https://forum.laboneinside.com/viewtopic.php?t=358The EC1 file appears to be an update for the East Chip microcontroller, whatever that is.

author: pienari
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 09:58:23 am
content: Yep.That is different model with 8mb bios.I have tested that and dead as rock.EC update is something to do with battery charging controller.I think bios files can fit from E735,E745 and E755 laptops.

author: pienari
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 10:16:32 am
content: Now i found this.https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=58246E734 bios + ecI have to check if that works

author: pienari
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2023, 03:04:58 pm
content: That bios+ec not helped.I bought E754 motherboard from ebay and received it yesterday.Installed it and computer boots now, but black screen.External display picture is ok.Fuse near to display connector is fine.
Fujitsu Q556 repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mpn78
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 07, 2022, 06:37:11 am
content: HelloMy Fujitsu Esprimo Q556 motherboards blew up. At least fuse, bridge rectifier and capacitor got damaged. I have changed fuse and bridge rectifier (DF1508S), but I don't know what capacitor it is (picture). I know that capacitors size is 47nF, but I don't know other specs for it. Can you help me to choose right capacitor for my motherboard?There is 230VAC on input side of bridge rectifier and 340VDC as output on capasitors side.Would this capacitor be suitable?https://www.mouser.fi/ProductDetail/Murata-Electronics/GC331CD72W473KX03L?qs=QzBtWTOodeVP9Ab7c%252B4DrQ%3D%3D

author: abdulbadii
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2022, 06:01:55 pm
content: you knew it400v 43nF capSMD or usual hole thru type