hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Good waterproof panel mount external power connector?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: corrado33
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2014, 10:55:58 pm
content: Hi all,I'm in the process of making a power supply box for my pedal bike lights. The board currently works and everything is GREAT, but I'm not sure how to get the wires from inside the box to outside.If I want to make it professional looking, I don't want to just feed wires through a hole then silicon the hole shut. Plus I want it to be removeable. My bike lights use these connectors.Which is just a simple locking/waterproof barrel connector. It's "waterproofness" comes from the fact that they're REALLY hard to push together. I would LOVE to use these, so I wouldn't have to cut the connectors off of my lights, but I cannot find a panel mount one. One that I could mount to the side of my box.Failing that, what other waterproof/female/panel mount power connector would you recommend?

author: kxenos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2014, 11:15:57 pm
content: By waterproof you mean IP67? This doesn't look waterproof and I wouldn't trust any connector. Maybe military style but this would be too much for your application. Why don't you use a cable gland like the ones found in IP67 junction boxes?

author: corrado33
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2014, 11:24:22 pm
content: Quote from: kxenos on November 12, 2014, 11:15:57 pmWell the entire bike light including cabling is said to be "waterproof." It's not like these are going to be submerged, just water resistant (to rain/snow.)

author: kizzap
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2014, 06:17:45 am
content: As far as IP ratings go, the connector you are after will be IP rated to some degree.FYI IP ratings are two separate numbers, for dust and water penetration.0 is the worst, being water freely flows through it and you can easily poke a finger through.

author: kxenos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2014, 04:16:13 pm
content: Check thesehttp://www.digikey.gr/product-search/en?FV=fff40016%2Cfff802e6&k=ip67&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=1000011&page=1&stock=0&pbfree=0&rohs=0&quantity=&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25http://www.digikey.gr/product-search/en?pv88=2&FV=fff40016%2Cfff80519&k=ip67&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25http://www.digikey.gr/product-search/en?FV=fff40016%2Cfff802fd%2C1600002&k=ip67&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=1000011&page=1&stock=0&pbfree=0&rohs=0&quantity=&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25
Extremely easy and cheap photo transfer.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: corrado33
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2014, 10:52:33 pm
content: Hi all,I've made a discovery that I've decided to share with those of you who want to make your own PCBs.These are my results using fed-ex kinkos printers on the darkest setting + the photo transfer paper linked below and a $19 wal-mart laminator. (It's a scotch brand.)http://pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/start_here/overview.htmlApologies for the phone pictures!https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6oqWuYTCiclMXJkSFE3Qlh4UlZIQ3ZPeEJrZ1ZyRDk2UmFJ/view?usp=sharinghttps://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6oqWuYTCiclYzBac21rRklzOVhhMUJXa0ZVM2RIei12bUtN/view?usp=sharingEDIT: Seems like on the pictures you can see specs of white areas (where no toner would be). Trust me, the transfer is perfect. Very crisp and ZERO holes. Everything transferred perfectly.The transfer is 100% effecient. There was NO ink left on the transfer paper. (Ignore the messed up corner, that was my fault.)Here's what I did differently than the paper told me to do.I ran it through the laminator probably 8-10 times. After that was finished, I let it cool for all of 5 seconds, then ran it under hot water. The paper started sliding around then came off perfectly clean. The messed up corner is from when I tried to pull it off without getting it wet.EDIT: Well, apparently google doesn't like people directly linking to their pictures... so I guess you'll just have to look at the links.

author: corrado33
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2014, 05:39:57 am
content: Quote from: 3roomlab on November 09, 2014, 11:54:22 pmI initially thought so too. I figured I'd try the $20 wal-mart one just for kicks, but it works a treat!
Silk screen on an exposed pad with no solder mask - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: itdontgo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2014, 05:02:20 pm
content: Just realised this should be in here:Hi,Does anyone know if the silk screen is applied after the PCB is solder levelled/plated so that a silk screen can be applied to what would normally be a pad?You obviously would get a DRC error if you put text on a pad but could a PCB be produced this way intentionally. It's a pad that is not intended to be soldered.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 06, 2014, 05:10:56 pm
content: PCB house will remove any silkscreen over exposed copper. If you ask pCB service to to this, might be possible. However adhesion might be not good.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2014, 01:42:26 pm
content: Usually it's an error but apparently some of them will print silkscreen over pads if you really want them to:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/removing-goofed-up-silk-screen-from-pads/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/manufacture/silkscreen-clean-up-from-iteadseeedetc/
Silscreen and Writing Ink? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2014, 08:08:42 am
content: What can I use that would be permanent for silkscreen? I need to write on the silk screen, but when I cast my parts in resin, what I've written on the silkscreen becomes smudged and unreadable as the resin dries. It's just ClearCast clear resin. 2 part mix 1:1.I've tried an ink pen, and also a Sharpie. Anyone have experience with this?

author: nuno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2014, 11:47:31 pm
content: There's probably the right "paint" for that but here's some ideas anyway... don't know if it would interfere negatively with the resin.Put a small normal paper sticker and write with a normal pen/pencil.Print it in a sticker, probably works best with a laser (toner) printer.Write on the PCB but protect the writing with a bit of glueing tape or varnish.It may also be the case that you don't give it enough time for the ink to fully dry.

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2014, 04:50:36 am
content: You can get high temperature inks for lead glass work. Baking it onto the PCB may give You a stable solution.Alternatively You can get touchup soldermask in a dispenser.It cures in sunlight.And yet another option is ident ink ( epoxy ink ) store it in an an airtight jar in a fridge and use as needed. Cure under sunlight ( UV ).

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2014, 09:48:50 pm
content: If the solder mask isnt super glossy... pencil?

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2014, 01:06:57 am
content: this is for writing on silk screen, not soldermask. the silk screen is over the soldermask i think.i'll need to find something. it would be cool if the pcb manufacture could just print that particular silkscreen in sequential numbers on the boards.

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2014, 06:45:30 am
content: There is a product used to paint on glass. A vitreous paint of sorts.If memory serves it needs to be cured under some heat.Yes.. here is the linkhttp://www.amazon.com/Pebeo-Porcelaine-China-Marker-Anthracite/dp/B00266MNGKEnjoy the mess...
NEW FREE PCB  DESIGNER - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MrsR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2014, 09:34:07 pm
content: I just down loaded a new Program EWEB PCB DESIGNER I have only done a schematic on it so far and it is very easy to use.Has anyone else tried it out yet.It uses DIGIKEY parts list and the components are very comprehensive.ALL THE BESTRachael
Diptrace group buy - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Cside
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2014, 11:51:50 pm
content: Hello GentsI have decided to purchase a diptrace licence. I noticed there are group buy discounts for 3, 5 and 10 copies. The savings are significant even for 3 copies. I am wondering if anyone here is interesting in splitting a group buy. I am looking at either the standard or extended version but am open to all if quantiteis are there.hooroo.[ update ] - wrong forum. How can I move this to the Diptrace sections?
no clean flux + IPA = big sticky mess? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: djacobow
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2014, 09:41:23 pm
content: I've been using a no-clean flux pen to assemble SMT boards, along with solder with normal rosin flux in it. They look pretty good right after with not all that much obvious flux residue. Sometimes I just leave them like that. But I've tried to clean a few with IPA.Each time I have done this, the result has been a sticky, tacky mess, with the flux seemingly spread out but not removed. I'm holding the board vertically, using a toothbrush and what seems like a fair amount of IPA, and letting the IPA run down and off the board. I've repeated the process a few times, with fresh IPA and it gets cleaner, but not completely.Am I doing something very wrong? Do I need to be using large quantities of IPA, like floating the board in a paint pan? If I do that, can I re-use that IPA or does it now have too much dissolved solder?Pretty confused, actually.

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2014, 02:50:38 am
content: Try some dedicated flux cleaner instead of IPA. IPA has a hard time with the sticky residue left over from rosin fluxes. I use Electrolube Fluxclene.Sent using Tapatalk.

author: djacobow
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2014, 07:16:52 am
content: Thanks, I'll give that a shot!Quote from: orbiter on October 11, 2014, 02:50:38 am

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2014, 08:09:00 am
content: Best cleaner I can use is R141B, but that is frowned on these days. Just restocked with 5l, now in a can that is truly sealed and packed under vacuum. That though is going to destroy most plastics aside from IC packages. It will clean anything including markings and screenprint off boards. Works great on high impedance and PTFE standoffs though.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 11, 2014, 09:39:03 am
content: You either need paper wipes that will absorb IPA with flux dissolved or compressed air to blow it out of the board. Otherwise you are just spreading all the mess over the board. Flux don't disappear miraculously anywhere when IPA dries out.
Board houses for 4mil track/gap prototypes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2014, 12:52:22 pm
content: Folks,Can anyone recommend a board house that will do 6 layer, 4 mil (0.1mm) track and gap, 0.2mm via for prototypes at reasonable prices at, say, 1 week turnaround?No other special requirements, but darned BGAs are a right royal PITA.I'm located in the UK if that makes any difference.Many thanks, Howard

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2014, 01:14:30 pm
content: hackvana can't do 1 week turnaround but can do 4/4 and 0.2mm vias @ 6 layer with reasonable prices. jump in the #hackvana irc channel on freenode and have a chat or send a message to mitch(hackvana), at orders@hackvana.comI dont think many places will get you a 6 layer board in a week without crazy costs.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2014, 08:14:23 pm
content: Did you try eurocircuits?

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2014, 08:42:31 pm
content: Thank you for your replies, both are worth a look.Many thanks, Howard
Mouser Multisim: Interoperation between Schematics and PCB Layout: Forward Annot - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Tarik
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 05, 2014, 12:05:47 pm
content: Hi,Currently, I'm testing this offer from Mouser.The point is, I really would like use a PCB Design Software with a well integrated BOM and footprint manager. And if some added simulation function works well as well: Great.But one thing came very fast to me: This File-Based "Integration" between schematic and PCB.Wen I have a finished PCB layout, and I have to change the schematics (May be for a test result reason), I export this changed schematics than and load it to PCB Layout "Ultiboard" (Again). And start at level 0 with rat's nest, what not exactly helps.In that case, some "reload" or update or append functionality is required.Have not found this.So the question is, how to handle changes in schematics, when a PCB Layout is already there, without wasting the effort creating it (I think the required function is called forward annotation)?Thanks,Tarik

author: ampdoctor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2014, 12:25:07 am
content: I just downloaded this myself and having been a NI user for several years I'm noticing there's more than a few things that are hamstrung with the free edition that they failed to mention. I haven't found anything that allows for forward or backward annotation which is a little disturbing. Normally it's in the transfer drop down but it doesn't seem to be present so you may be out of luck.

author: rea5245
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2014, 03:41:12 pm
content: Quote from: Tarik on October 05, 2014, 12:05:47 pmThat feature has been removed from MultiSIM BLUE.See my full review athttp://pcbshopper.com/multisim-blue-review/- Bob
Altium's Circuitmaker Freeware PCB Design Software Launch imminent  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: K6TR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2014, 07:41:04 am
content: It looks like Altium has a Freeware Version of its Designer Software Package coming very soon.http://circuitmaker.com/The first and only post in the Blog Section was posted on the 3rd of September.
Elecrow.... Manufacturing Process? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2014, 01:39:29 am
content: Is this something they can do? Would there be any extra charge for anything? There is alot of routing, but I've already done the penalizing for them. Honestly if they did it, I doubt they could get it as tight to save board amount. I don't want to checkout the cart items, if they come back and say they need more money.The size is 185.44mm x 189.48mm

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2014, 03:07:17 am
content: I would check with them first. They have several levels of services and some of them have restrictions on panelizing.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2014, 03:21:01 am
content: Ya, that's what I thought.I'll just go with my current supplier. they don't fuss over that stuff to try and get an extra buck out of the consumer.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2014, 04:31:56 am
content: Quote from: Falcon69 on September 27, 2014, 03:21:01 amSend them email, you have nothing to loose, they do respond to email.The restrictions on paneling are because some deals are for 10 pieces with a given max size. If you panelize you practically get more pieces. Other restrictions are about mixing different boards on the same panel. This way you get 10 + 10 instead of placing two orders. However they have several levels of services including 'premium' so the best is to check with them.

author: iampoor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2014, 07:18:05 pm
content: Quote from: Falcon69 on September 27, 2014, 03:21:01 amAt 13.90 for 10 10x10cm boards....I think they can charge alittle extra.

author: kingofkya
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2014, 07:41:02 pm
content: On my small stuff theses guys have beaten elecrow for small runs.3pcb.com very very close to elecrow if not the same mfg.You can save a lot of money on shipping with the thinner board from them:)Also elecrow will bid almost anything for you just email themorder@elecrow.com There very easy to work with:)
Are there Standard Drill Sizes for PCBs? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheRuler8510
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2014, 01:53:26 am
content: Are there standard drill sizes that should be used for PCBs, or is any size OK?I'm using OSHPark, but what about other board houses too? I am not clear on how it works. Suppose I put in some oddbball size--will it be rounded off to some standard size?I don't see any references to this issue.Thanks,

author: ampdoctor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2014, 03:22:06 am
content: I've never used OSHPark so this is more of a general answer. Anyway, back in the day when dinosaurs roamed the earth mfg's had standard cnc drill racks. Any deviations from the standard was an up charge. The racks were fairly broad and allowed for just about every standard part, so if you came up with an oddball size chances are you screwed something up.These days it doesn't seem to be the case any longer. Every house I've dealt with over the past few years just asked me to provide the finished hole size and they'd make the adjustments as part of the setup. If you don't see any references to how they want to handle things, it would be prudent to shoot them an email and find out what they want. better to be safe than sorry.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2014, 04:29:24 am
content: Quote from: ampdoctor on August 20, 2014, 03:22:06 amOSHPark panels include a mishmash of boards from many designers, mostly non professionals so my guess is that they approximate to a predefined set of standard hole sizes.

author: avaldezc92
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2014, 05:30:49 am
content: Normally I use the size of the standard tools.

author: Dago
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2014, 08:48:54 am
content: If I recall correctly the factory we tend to use the most has drills in 0.1mm increments. I think it was from 0.1 or 0.2mm up to something big (6 or 10mm or something).

author: Mattylad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2014, 05:07:32 pm
content: A bit late but...AFAIK Drill bits are now only available in 0.05mm increments.Do not use imperial drill sizes, they will be converted to metric & the nearest.As told to me by several PCB manufacturers front end guys.I try to keep to 0.1mm increments and when I can use common sizes to reduce my drill count and the number of drill changes. Although as the drills are done by a machine it does not matter much as it only takes a few seconds to change but every second helps
new cheap Zuken Cadstar - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Zeta
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 06:50:05 am
content: Zuken just released a new Cadstar essential bundle for just $999http://www.zuken.com/en/news/press-releases/2014/09-cadstar-essentialthe new bundle is limited to 1000pins 4layers ( althought I hope it is actually 4layer autorouter and unlimited manual router like the basic bundle).it seems like Zuken is trying to take on the lower end segment of the market, a segment where Altium is the main competitor and Cadsoft Eagle sells it's Pro licences. I tried the version 14 but hated the libary editor, new parts in Altium were way easier to build, even with Eagle were easier. Would you choose this bundle instead of Altium ?

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 06:55:38 am
content: They have too a free version, CADSTAR Express, limited to 300 pins and 50 components.

author: Mattylad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2014, 04:47:42 pm
content: I find making library parts very easy, especially if I can get a pinlist.It's not drag & drop to make them, just some common sense & a little knowledge on what your doing (like any CAD package).I wonder if this package is available in the UK?
Looking for a mentor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jeraldamo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 06:27:24 pm
content: Hey all!I am currently in my last year of my EE bachelors degree here in the US. My current plans are to continue onto graduate school, but in computer science instead of electrical engineering. I am still very interested in the hardware side of things and hope to be able to integrate the two disciplines successfully. The area that I am really interested in is embedded design. I have a couple project ideas that I would like to move forward with, however majority of my university classes have dealt with either analog electronics or low level processor design. While this will still be helpful I don't have much experience with connecting say a microcontroller to a PROM module. I have been very interested in PCB design and have watched several videos as well as read several articles regarding the subject. I have also spent numerous hours playing with Eagle and gEDA.Long story short, I am looking for somebody that I can ask questions periodically, that can tell me when I am being an idiot, look over designs before I spend a ton of money to get the PCBs printed, bounce ideas off of, give me wisdom, and just get to know. I don't know if this is the place in which I can find said person, if not does anybody have any ideas where I could?Thanks for your time!Jerald Thomas

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 07:09:29 pm
content: Why looking for a person when you have here a whole forum?Ask as you need.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 07:16:00 pm
content: Welcome to the forum Jerald.Use the whole forum as your mentor asEdoNorksaid.There is vast knowledge and wisdom available.Learn which board is to best to post individual topics.Be sure to include any relevant info and links in your posts for timely answers.
Has anyone used Smart Prototyping for boards? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: magicsmoke
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2014, 04:33:06 am
content: I have been usingpcbshopper.comto compare pricing for a single 9 in. by 11 in. 4 layer board for prototyping. One company is popping up is Smart Prototypinghttp://smart-prototyping.com/Prototyping-Services/. For what other companies are offering for 1 board (~$300) they offer 5 boards. Obviously if I can get 5 boards for the same price as one I would like to go with that.Has anyone had an experiences with this company?How was the quality of the boards they produced?

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2014, 05:00:12 am
content: Search the dangerousprototypes.com forum, some there have used them, I think they said the quality and service was good from memory.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 16, 2014, 08:35:02 am
content: Hi, used them once. PCBs were good quality including silkscreen. Plated slots are for free too.

author: RiverTown
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2014, 06:02:55 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/eda/pcb-layout-comments-and-suggestions/msg502195/#msg502195

author: rea5245
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2014, 07:27:06 pm
content: Quote from: magicsmoke on October 16, 2014, 04:33:06 amThere are two short reviews onPCBShopper.comfor Smart Prototyping (http://pcbshopper.com/smart-prototyping-reviews/). They're both positive.- Bob

author: Wilksey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2014, 08:08:30 pm
content: I have just literally used them for making something, they did the PCBs in 3 days, unfortunately, they shipped the boards on the 11th of this month and they are sat in a Chinese container somewhere waiting to be shipped, not their fault by any means, I have heard nothing BUT positive feedback about them, I understand that all Chinese manufacturers are having long delays in shipping at present, unless you chose DHL or something, I just used China Express or whatever it was, so I can't complain.I can't comment on the board quality...yet, but I am expecting good results.
IPC Standards in pdf format - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EEVaditya
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 09:48:26 am
content: Hello,I am searching for some IPC Standards in pdf format regarding PCB Designing rules.The IPC Standards which I am looking for are:IPC-7525AIPC-2222AIPC-D-279IPC-7351BIPC-2221AIPC-CM-770EIPC-7530I did search , but I am getting only the Table of Contents & not the entire document.Where I will get the Free Download?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 10:24:46 am
content: Nowhere*. IPC asks for purchase of its documents.*Though it's been my experience that there's usually one or a few obscure servers with the PDFs available. You're welcome to search around and see.If you need that many standards in their entirety, you're probably working for, or doing work for, a real company. Have them buy them. If they don't want to, go work for someone else, you don't need that kind of ethical disregard over your head.Tim
Silk Screen Designator "RP" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: andersendr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2014, 01:03:56 am
content: I have a board that has some silk screen designators of "RP". Does anyone have an idea as to what kind of component it might be? This device is in the final output circuitry of an analog output stage. They have some with 4 pins and some with 3 pins.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2014, 07:46:47 am
content: Resistor Pack most likely

author: fww
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2014, 05:40:42 am
content: The most likely is regulation resistance (potentiometer).
Importing image into ultiboard - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MCPorche
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2014, 09:48:24 pm
content: Is there a way to import an image into Ultiboard to use as a template?I want to lay out some LEDs in a particular shape, and doing it freehand would be difficultSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2014, 10:28:26 pm
content: Yes. Or DWG, or...

author: MCPorche
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2014, 02:47:49 am
content: Could you perhaps give me a nudge in the right direction?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2014, 02:53:39 am
content: In Ultiboard 11 at least, it's Place / Graphic / Picture..., Select .BMP (presumably, monochrome).Import is only DXF, actually. So nevermind the ellipsis.Tim

author: MCPorche
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2014, 12:45:24 pm
content: Ok, cool. Thanks a lotSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Video of making a 144-pin schematic symbol in Altium - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2014, 11:51:02 pm
content: I'm starting a design involving an FPGA, and I've figured that I'll capture the process of creating a 144-pin schematic and pcb symbols. I guess a good thing to post to anyone asking around for library for a 28-pin PIC...

author: djacobow
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2014, 03:41:20 am
content: Quote from: poorchava on August 07, 2014, 11:51:02 pmI think it demonstrates quite nicely how ludicrous it is that users need to design their components at all, and also that it is not a trivial task -- with plenty of room for error -- even using the best SW out there.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2014, 12:25:43 pm
content: Havent discovered paste from pdf yet ?If the pins are in a table you can select them in pdf and simply paste them.

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2014, 01:26:09 pm
content: I copy & paste pins one by one. I have tried selecting entire table, but no luck so far. Any special option to do that?EDIT: ok, found itWorks nice

author: ehughes
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2014, 12:36:28 am
content: use smart paste! I did a Spartan 6 in 256 pin package in 15 minutes!
Altium: Corrupted schematic library - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Mad ID
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2014, 04:48:15 pm
content: Hello fellow engineers,one of my libraries (.SchLib) got somehow corrupted.The symptom is that I cannot save any changes to it. When I try to save, Altium shows a progress bar on the lower left side and it never ends. If I close the library and open it the new component is not there. I have tried to copy all of the components inside to a new library and the new library is also corrupted.I see that a temporary file (.$$$) is created and not deleted.Looks like that some component/components have a faulty binary data in it...?Any clues on how to fix this annoying issue?Altium version 13.3.4Thank you.

author: Precipice
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2014, 08:11:52 am
content: Altium support (or your reseller's support) are where I go for this sort of thing - normally a quick turnaround. This particular problem hasn't happened to me for ages, but I recently had an (imported from PADS) schematic'o'death, which was causing no end of troubles.Also, of course, youdohave decent backups, don't you?

author: Mad ID
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2014, 08:29:00 am
content: The problem is solved.There was one corrupted component in a library of 500. We copied chunks of components into a new library until it failed, and then pinpointed one corrupted component which would crash the library.Thanks for the help.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2014, 08:51:28 am
content: Glad you cracked it.Would you like to edit this thread header to include (solved) for others to find?
Diptrace and jumper wires - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2014, 07:25:04 pm
content: Anyone knows how to run jumper wires using Diptrace? Please tell me how :-)Posted in "Diptrace" section - do not know how to delete a topic...

author: Wilksey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2014, 11:13:09 am
content: Jumper wires?In the PCB editor I can't see you can, you can only create 2 SIL pads and use that, in the schematic editor you can just link them up as you normally would.

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2014, 11:30:07 am
content: i don't know about diptrace but I in other packages I usually solve this problem by creating a component with a a variety of footprints which correspond to the required physical length of the jumper.
Seeed do check gerbers... quite impressed really - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2014, 07:37:25 pm
content: So, I derped out, I screwed up and somehow made the soldermask on my pads for some inductors really small. Didn't notice when I submitted my order. This would not work... (I could probably bodge it, but it wouldn't be right for a reflow.)I get an email about 2 hours after submission asking me if I really wanted to do this. Now I know this is standard practice for most big PCB manufacturers, but to be quite honest, I would not expect it from someone I paid £21 for 10 PCBs, 10x10cm 2 layer FR4 with silk & soldermask, including shipping to the UK with 4 days turn + shipping.Thanks to Echo Liu at Seeedstudio for spotting this! Great service, even if unexpected.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2014, 09:06:59 pm
content: Great service indeed! Do you think they spotted it manually or do they have software for this?Nice fully packed layout, what is it for board if i may ask?

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2014, 09:27:35 pm
content: Since the software appears to be a simple gerber viewer, I'm guessing it's manual inspection. I'm sure they probably do things like track/trace clearance by DRC, but things like this are probably manual.The board is an LED ambilight power supply and controller. It controls an array of 210 LEDs wrapped around my TV, the LEDs follow the display content. See here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/ambilight-clone-using-ws2812b-leds-build-log/It needs a fair bit of current at about 5V, so there are two independent supplies (5V @ 4A, each), which is what the inductors are for, buck converter from 12V input.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2014, 11:03:56 pm
content: That looks like the same gerber / DFM stuff we use. Should be pretty standard for anyone doing a lot of PCBs.I suppose the better question is, is it p1rat3d or did they buy it legitimately?Tim

author: hamster_nz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2014, 12:07:45 am
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on August 26, 2014, 11:03:56 pmWhy do you ask? Are you using p1rat3d version yourself?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2014, 10:11:48 am
content: Just make sure you tell them clearly what you want - "should we all solder opening" should definitely not be responded with "yes" or "no" as I'm unsure what they really mean by that.Quote from: T3sl4co1l on August 26, 2014, 11:03:56 pmIt's Genesis2000. I think they've bought it as that specific version doesn't seem to be available at "the usual places" and seeed is not a small operation.

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2014, 11:22:41 am
content: I sent them updated gerbers with the problem fixed - it's probably better than having them guess the size of the soldermask hole.
The Current PCB Quality of Itead Studio? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SolarSunrise
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 12:14:40 pm
content: Did anyone ordered a batch from Itead studio recently? Dave's rant few years ago has dropped their reputation slightly for me but I'm still planning to get a batch. I mean, color solder mask + silkscreen + Gold plated + Expedit shipping = 76$ for 10 boards!!! Most of the complaints arises from the slow shipping but why not use the expedite shipping option?It is really tempting to order a batch from them.... "Is it the greatest thing since sliced bread"?

author: SolarSunrise
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 12:41:01 pm
content: Well I guess you can't ignore Dave's rantings:http://blog.iteadstudio.com/prototyping-pcb-minimum-spacing-limitation/We need more people like Dave to criticize and fix the manufacturer's issues...

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 01:54:53 pm
content: i did. it came out just as good as the ones from seed i couldnt find anything wrong with the boards however the ones from itead are just a mounting plate for philips/lumileds luxeon leds so nothing major fine pitch stuffs but lots of vias all good

author: sacherjj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 04:20:02 pm
content: I've had a few prototypes from them for work in non-critical space or impedance boards. If you don't push their minimums, they work fine. I've been happy with what I've received.

author: profmason
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 05:52:56 pm
content: I just ordered 3 sets of PCBs from Itead for the mechatronics course I am teaching this term. Paying for upgraded shipping meant that they arrived in 9 days to the USA. Sunny Yu who was the long time prototype PCB guy has left the company and the new guy is Dale Huang. I had always had a good experience with Sunny as he would quickly (24 hours) point out an problems with gerbers that meant they weren't going to work with their process (Ultiboard not generating outlines, drill file problems etc) I didn't have any interaction with Dale as all the boards were ones that I had run before.Quality was as good as always which is fine for 2 layer through hole student project boards. I was mainly impressed that they could turn them around so quickly.Sunny has started his own company MIER that I will try after Chinese new year.Cheers,mmason

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2014, 04:23:00 pm
content: Quote from: sunny.yu on August 03, 2014, 03:52:19 pm"Boards which are seperated only by silk-screen are counted as sub-boards and have to be payed extra."That's a regression from itead's (and elecrow) rules ;-)Any plans for low cost metal stencils for hobyiests? (e.g. frameless, 1" margin around the board area)How much is shipping (normal and expedited) to the US?If your prices are competitive you may want to get onhttp://pcbshopper.com
circuit protection schematic design  (OrCAD) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Skyland
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2014, 10:58:40 am
content: I have designed a protection circuit for my pcb and I would appreciate having some feedback before starting the PCB design.The circuit is broken down as follow;-ESD protection provided by a one channel IC-low pass filter to suppress noise above 4.5Khz-pmos to protect against reverse polarity-crowbar for overvoltage protection-current sensor which is connected to a uC ( ideally I would like the op amp to work with the PSU IN in the range 3.3v to 16v)The maximum voltage is 16V and the minimum votlage is 3.3V.Edit:The current monitored is in the range of 0 - 1A . ADC is from 0 - 3.3VThe actual models used have been implemented in the schematic for clarity.The supply voltage range is from 3.3V to 16VThe low pass filter has been replaced by a ferrite beadDifferential Op amp is used for current monitoring with 165K for R load to provide the adequate gain (0 to 3.3V input to the ADC).

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2014, 11:31:26 am
content: As a suggestion to your schematic keep your grounds on the bottom line, the funky resistor tied to ground tied to negative of battery is not that easy to read at a glance,other than that, i would probably recommend a resistance in front of the op amps sense line, the crowbar circuit will take some time to fire and during that time it would better protect the esd diodes on the input if you had something to limit the current flowing through them,

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2014, 02:10:58 pm
content: First of all : what the hell is up with those damn dots everywhere ?Second. This protection circuit doesnt protect at all. I can fry this without problems.That thermal fuse should be the first thing i hit, followed by the transient suppressor.The coil cannot have a capacitor before it. If i inject a spike the cap before the coil would recirculate the energy. The path before the coil needs to be open. So actually you need to hit the coil first, then the fuse then the transient suppressor.The crowbar ? That is too slow for any kind of surge. For long duration events that will work but you will burn off a lot of power...As for current monitoring , by a cpu ... By the time that thing reacts your circuit is fried....

author: mij59
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2014, 03:46:16 pm
content: Hi,Why did you chose a high voltage mosfet with a rdson of 30 Ohm and a threshold voltage of -2 to -4 V ?At 3.3V the mosfet will probably not turn on.I may be confused by the dots, but R5 is connected parallel to the 3.3V supply.
Beware, SIUI Medical Ultrasound PCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Muanpuia
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 11:10:41 pm
content: Hello, beforehand this is my first post so please excuse me and let me know if i post this in the wrong topic.Last month i happen to stuck in a repair of Portable Monochrome Ultrasound Scanner branded SIUI(chinese) Model no CTS-5500.The problem is kind of intermittent blown fuse and i promptly apply series bulb trick to see if its safe to just replace the fuse and its running fine. But everytime i change the fuse, it blows again after 2.5-3minutes average. Then test run each section (crt display, D/A converter, Oscillator....) and its all seems fine.After a long trial and error (this system has two probe socket) the reason fuse blows intermittently is a result of intermittent abnormal load in probe output socket HV switching PCB. This board inputs US signal of +5v level that switched between -100 and +100v, and a short circuit happens intermittently between -100v to ground (more frequent whenever 4B scanning mode is used) I have so much trouble finding out which particular IC among 24 of them is bad.Thermal test gets me no where, radio test also not helpful, so i remove all 24 ICs. Then i dry run it, to my amazement the short circuit is still there! Ive already done too much to giveup now, so i remove all -100v related parts again. It really pisses me off, the S/C is still there!!! So to my last resort im taking the risk. I get readymade home fan speed controller (triac type, not rheostat), Transformer (220v - 6v) and ignition coil that i remove from my RE, i wire them up like in the photo.Starting from minimum position of fan speed controller, i raise the fan speedin small increment and im so happy to see these old parts are doing just what i expected. I turn off the light and raise the fan speed, i see a little spark at via of PCB hole that the probe socket sits.So i think when the probe socket is screwed on, it compress the pcb all the time which somehow flattens some layer sandwitched at that point, the area getting larger and shorted with the wall of via. I really jump for joy and i think you can all imagine what im supposed to do then.Finished, play around with it, yet its a pity that i dont know/understand the echo image of my own body, looks like fluids running wildly inside me. I think theyre happy too......haha.I post this hoping that someone with this kind of problem might find it helpful and save time to learn something else.Thank you eev
Fpga board design with Altium designer  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mahir
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 19, 2014, 10:42:12 am
content: Hello everyoneI'm an engineering student and i've a project with fpga and i want to make own pcb in altium designer. I started a little and i have a few questions.Firstly;1) Fpga's piecemeal in altium designer schematic section, bank0 bank1... why ?2) I can't found all components for example linear tech voltage regulators. I cant dowload these how can i find?3) How do i make pcb later schematic, is this automatic pass?(because fpga bank to bank, how can i combine to 1 chip in pcb)4) What are your general advices for this project? I need your all advices, these are so important for me.I do not have much time,I would appreciate it, if you could send me more detailed information about these questionsThanks a lot to everyoneRegards.
User Conifgurable Keys in DipTrace - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2014, 04:53:15 pm
content: Hey, I know this is one of the more common complains about DipTrace. Surprisingly I found that there was no feature request specifically requesting them. I just saw this mentioned:QuoteI have actually started a thread on DipTrace forums to push for this functionality:http://www.diptrace.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9986Chime in on it to illustrate to them it needs to be a priority.
crowbar circuit OrCAD simulation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Skyland
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2014, 10:32:44 am
content: I have a couple of issues with the simulation;1. : the zener diode has Vz at 4.7V, it is not behaving as expected since it is reducing the supply voltage by 4.7 instead of setting it to that voltage.2. : the SCR is not triggering and short circuiting the PSU.3. : Is there a way to add a spice model to a thermal fuse in capture.4. : Any recommendations on the values of the resistors and capacitor used?

author: JacobPilsen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2014, 11:06:06 am
content: It looks You don't have catode of SCR connected to GND line.(I don't see the node there.) That line is not straight. Shame OrCad.In this simulation, there is a probability, that nominal current of Zener is lower that nominal Ig of this SCR. So SCR doesn't have enough triggering current (in simulation).

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2014, 04:23:17 am
content: Quote from: JacobPilsen on July 17, 2014, 11:06:06 amHe's right, look at the cathode line of the SCR there is no pink ball denoting a connection there.
Have anyone got a to220-7 package - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sfiber
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2014, 09:13:24 pm
content: for eagle or ares.I am gonna work with lm2676 but I havent got a this package lib.So if anyone have got,can you share with me.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2014, 09:18:14 pm
content: Draw your own. It's a skill you're going to have to learn (.. and not exactly a hard one), so get on with it.

author: sfiber
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2014, 10:01:02 pm
content: yeah I know.Actually I like to design circuit not a pcb design.Drilling printing is not for me.I want to ask a question about drawing.Can I make device in proteus to wiring schematic,then make package of this device in ares.
Altium design rule question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: docmur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2014, 06:15:10 pm
content: Hey GuysDoes anyone know how to setup a rule for the distant a VIA has to be away from a pad? I currently have my board setup for a 5 mil spacing, but I want my VIA's to have to be placed even further away from pads, maybe like 10 mils+. I can't see any setting or method to tell the DRC to look at that.ThanksDocmur

author: AlfBaz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2014, 11:59:04 pm
content: In Design Rules under electrical->Clearance, create a new rule.Select "Advanced(Query)" for both "Where the first object matches" and "Where the second object matches"Click the "Query Helper" button. For the first type "IsVia" for the second type "IsPad"Then simply adjust "minimum Clearance". You can even stipulate whether this clearance rule applies to all or just different nets

author: AlfBaz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2014, 12:02:15 am
content: I forgot to mention that you sometime have to give rules in similar categories priorities. For instance here you might want to give your pad to via clearance rule a higher priority to your general clearance rule

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2014, 04:08:14 am
content: Could probably also be done with IsSMTPad and hole clearance, so it applies to all holes. Or something.