Driving a WZDK58-38G motor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: kevinateev
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2018, 07:29:47 pm
content: OK, I thought I'd understood how this motor works, but clearly, I don't. Anybody have any clues?The label information is thus :DC Brushless motorSIC-55CVL-F159-1DC310V 8P58W E ClassWires are Vm, GND, Vcc, Vsp, PGIt is brushless motor, I'm presuming it has a controller board inside as this would be ultimately driven by AC. 8P I imagine means 8 Pole so that looks like 24 poles in total for three phases? The DC310V ... I have a hard time believing that it requires 310 volts DC. 58W would make sense to be 58 Watts. I don't know what 'E' class means.What does NOT work is Vm at 12VDC, Vcc at 5VDC, and Vsp pulsed at anywhere from 10Hz-8Mhz with any duty cycle. I have noticed that PG will have a 'noisy' spot and a 'quiet' spot in the slight pole positions as one rotates the motor.Picture is below too.

author: kevinateev
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2018, 08:52:58 pm
content: https://www.whatwoulddennisdo.com/dc-motors.htmlAll right, the guy above confirms the voltage requirements etc. The DC310V is the peek-to-peek voltage of 220VAC mains. So, Vm is expected to be a straight mains voltage full-wave rectified between Vm and GND.It is going to be tricky to drive this motor as the Vcc is 15VDC with the same GND. So, AC must be isolated? I presume so. The 15VDC can be isolated no problem from any old power supply. Join the two and should be OK.Only, In the link above I wonder if he had the Vsp correct. Could it be simply a voltage level? Or, rather, it is a pulse width square wave where it looks like a steady voltage increase on a typical multi-meter.I know for sure, with this model anyhow, the pulse switches high/low with every revolution. Not twice per revolution as is typical with a PWM motor.

author: chendragon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 21, 2018, 02:31:27 am
content: I bought some similar motors to add fan speed modulation to a portable air conditioner. On mine, I powered the motor Vm from the filter capacitor of a switching power supply providing 15V as well which was connected to Vcc, and if I remember correctly, during testing I just put a 5V battery pack across GND and the Vsp and the motor spun up to full speed.IIRC, 12V on Vm and Vcc and 5V on Vsp also runs the motor, albeit very very slowly though with decent torque. Yours may be different, as mine was a no-name motor from China.

author: kevinateev
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2024, 01:40:46 pm
content: Hi Y'all, for the record, I've managed to confirm and implement a circuit for driving these motors. Firstly, you use a suitable 2A bridge rectifier, then have a 450V 82-100 uF capacitor across that. The Negative goes to Black/GND. The Positive goes to Red/Vm. The motor will not run yet. Then you need a 15VDC with a ground relative to Black/GND (I used an old 15V transformer with its own bridge rectifier and smoothing capacitor, an old wall wort .. yes, there are more elegant but I'm using what I have. Unloaded, I'd notice the wort was only putting out 12-13 VDC. The original circuit I'd taken the motor from used a small switching power supply here). The Negative from the 15VDC goes to the Black/GND also. The +15VDC goes to White/Vcc. The motor will not run yet. Then, you apply that same +15VDC to the Yellow/Vsp and you get the motor running at full speed. In the circuit I'd taken it out of and the one I'd made afterwards, I put a 10 uF capacitor and a 4.7k Ohm resistor across GND and Vsp, then connect an optio-isolator between VCC and Vsp. The Optio-isolator needs 5VDC applied to it to turn on the motor now. OR, the motor can now be pulsed to vary the Vsp voltage and regulate the motor speed. The Blue/PG wire is feedback as described here already for the motor's actual speed. Another optio-isolator going the other way can be used to sense the motor's actual speed.The motor starts gently, a very nice motor. I'd tested this circuit at 120VAC and that works fine to for a quiet medium running motor. There are clearly some electronics in this motor to make it work this way.NOTE: I'd tried using the motor across a 240V AC source and that is too much. The motor ran a bit but shortly auto-shutdown. Hooked it back up to test circuit with 120V AC source, whew! not destroyed.