hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Wireless charging help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: trevwhite
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2016, 09:39:19 am
content: Hi allI found a reference design at the following address for a wireless charging system.http://www.we-online.com/web/en/electronic_components/produkte_pb/demoboards/wireless_power/wireless_power_we.php?formblock=section_id_wuerth_elektronik#section_id_wuerth_elektronikIt gives a link to the files it states are the gerber but when I open it I believe what I am seeing is the Altium cad files and not the generated gerber files. I wondered if anyone out there was able to generate the gerber files for me as I would really like to examine the different layers and the component positions. If there is a proper BOM output that would also be great.I am sure I can get in touch with Wurth but its Sunday and I want to examine the board a bit today.ThanksTrev

author: sambran
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2016, 03:48:22 pm
content: These are TI reference designs. I believe you can find all the required docs on the relevant pages (links bellow), if not the user guide has images of the PCB layers.http://www.ti.com/tool/bq500212aevm-550http://www.ti.com/tool/BQ51013BEVM-764

author: trevwhite
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2016, 01:22:01 am
content: Thanks
Wireless Communication With Processor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: wigman27
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2014, 12:11:42 am
content: Hi all,I am after some information and suggestions if I may. I am working with a mate on a project that involves a warning beacon. When the device is switched on and operating we need a beacon to flash. The beacon will be on the wall and the device is mobile.At the moment he has it working with serial through two Arduinos. I know it's also possible with Xbees and alike.My question is, is there a way of doing this simple communication without a processor? I just think it adds unnecessary complication to something as simple as a one way communication of "I'm on" and "I'm off"Everything I have googled involves a processor..ThanksLee

author: ludzinc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 10, 2014, 01:04:01 am
content: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10A-relay-wireless-Remote-Control-Switch-Transmitter-1CH-Receiver-DC-12v-/301141137640?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item461d6918e8This will see you right. Just use your device to switch the on / off buttons on the remote. Too easy.

author: wigman27
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2014, 01:31:42 am
content: Well that takes all the fun out of it!!
Wireless HART - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rakeshm55
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2013, 02:39:46 pm
content: Hi,We have an exposure to Zigbee standard .... our implementation is based on MSP430G2618+CC2520But in order to try out industrial domain we would like to try some rugged protocol. I am aware of Wireless HART as a suitable protocol for Industrial application.Will there be an open source stack available for WiHART like the Ztack from TI??? Can the CC2520+MSP430G2618 used for Wi HART development...If a third part stack is to be used what will be the type of costs incurred??.

author: 4to20Milliamps
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2013, 11:35:07 pm
content: I'm sure someone has done it, if you're handy with C it probably won't be too difficult to implement.http://hartprotocollite.codeplex.com/SourceControl/latestThe commercial options are expensive of course:http://borst-automation.com/products/products.htmMore resources:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highway_Addressable_Remote_Transducer_Protocolhttp://www.nivis.com/open_source/
wireless mouse 2,4 GHz to wired - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sisoski
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 19, 2017, 11:06:59 am
content: Is it possible to connect wireless mouse 2,4 GHz with wire , how?

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2017, 12:03:49 am
content: Anything is possible, but realistically no, just get a wired mouse.
Wireless multicast VGA video, digitally. Get me on the track? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: HSPalm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2016, 04:04:14 pm
content: Hi guys,Just want to discuss various methods for streaming video digitally, what I can expect of quality, latency and what not.You may already see that I'm interested in tackling the interference problems that occur when several people fly FPV together on adjacent channels. The problems we encounter today are mostly related to noise from environment and other pilots chiming in on your video feed, not from signal loss from your own transmitter. I want the video digital to block out others, not to improve one pilots own signals.So, feel free to smack me down to ground if I'm thinking terribly wrong here.My "requirements" (or dream scenario) is- Quality as good as or close to PAL/NTSC or VGA resolutions.- 25 fps- Low latency, less than 50ms- Overhead in bandwidth to accomplish CRC checking.- Don't want or need error correction of lost packetsI understand I may have to do with greyscale video, but to me this is not bad as a start at least. All though, color->greyscale conversion adds to the processing task so it might introduce latency.What is the greatest obstacle to tackle? I understand video must be compressed, how? Wifi can do it, even with 4K video, what tasks are run on each sides of this link that adds to latency that I might do without?I'm not used to thinking of high data rates, bandwidth and lots of data, so much of this stuff confuses me. So I googled, and found this page:http://www.excitingip.com/2722/bandwidth-considerations-for-ip-surveillance-cameras-how-to-reduce-the-bandwidth-occupied-by-them/QuoteSo if this is right, VGA video will (with some kind of compression) require at least 1Mbps. So does that mean the "only thing" I have to look for now is a way to digitize composite video, compress it, and put it out over a wireless link that supports the data rates I need?I found this radio chip from ON Semiconductor that claims higher datarates than most others,http://www.axsem.com/www/rfics/general-purpose/ax5031. The claim is 2000kbps, or 2Mbps.And at this point I invite you to believe that I'm not as unfamiliar with electronics as it might seem, my daytime job is beeing a hardware developer in M2M radio applications. It's just video and huge data that confuses the hell out of me.So, what is wrong with the picture below? Is it achievable?
Wireless operation/activation of pneumatic solenoid valve?   - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: viper
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2025, 05:34:43 am
content: I will be brief here on the application. I'm rigging up a tree watering system. Will be moving an IBC tote around with forks. I don't want to get off the tractor for every single tree. I think we have decided that instead of trying to do an electric water valve, we just need to air lock the tank, so I want to install a solenoid valve on the cap.I can certainly wire the tractor to operate this valve, but will be a hassle, and actual operation time is very limited. I was envisioning a wireless setup so I can just use my Milwaukee batteries. I have some that are around 12V if the 18V is a little hot for the valve. I was hoping I could find a turnkey device with remote or something? I would think a simple mosfet could do this job? Are there any such devices that are not junk, but also not expensive?Actual operation time is probably 30min per watering cycle. Then can just recharge the battery. I can't imagine a solenoid valve pulling much power here.

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2025, 06:10:20 am
content: G'day viper,Will that be 30 minutes watering time per tree?What orifice size in the solenoid valve are you going to need to ensure you release the air lock in the IBC to get sufficient water flow?What A/Hr rating are your Milwaukee batteries?I suggest you firstly research solenoid valves so you can determine what the current consumption will be.https://rfmodules.com.au/radio-modules/radio-modules-control
Wireless options for simple prototypes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: bitwelder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2012, 09:11:14 am
content: Hello,this thread about GPRS/GSM moduleshttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects-designs-and-technical-stuff/gprsgsm-module-recommendationadvice/msg166956reminded me of a search I haven't yet completed.What are the possible options for short-range wireless communications in small projects (e.g. suitable for Arduino projects, which also means interfacing is relatively easy)?I found this page:http://blog.homelabs.org.uk/wireless-connectivity/that lists:- RFM12B (HopeRF)- XRF (Ciseco)- XBee, various versions (Digi)Then we have somewhat more complex GSM/GPRS, Wifi (i.e. IEEE 802.11) and Bluetooth.Anything else that is worth considering?

author: ashley.hughes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2012, 05:05:28 am
content: I like working with the xbees personally. I find there easy to use have 3 of them at the moment almost in a lighting project I am working on. They can be a bit expensive though.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2012, 09:48:21 am
content: It depends on what you want to do. If you want to have a lot of nodes, the xbee or the mesh library for the rfm22 or something might be best. If you just want to communicate data between 1 board and a computer or something, the bluetooth to serial modules from sparkfun are super easy to use. Plug and play to the micro uart essentially. Windows opens a virtual serial port and you are good to go.
Wireless power bank 10,000mAh+ >10W, Qi? Kit or commercial off the shelf (COTS)? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: FrankE
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2020, 09:52:58 pm
content: I'm getting a smartphone, my first.I'm going to need a power bank. The telephone I'm getting accepts fast wireless charging 2.0 and Qi, so may as well get a wireless one.Any I could take apart and replace cells, coils, ports etc would be better.Might I be better building one myself with modules off ebay, a full sans-cell kit, or just buy one. I've a stack of 18650s.I haven't seen near-universally great reviews on any of the COTS ones, most have reviews saying the product didn't work on wireless or it failed after a couple of months (though I've no idea if they overdischarged or what).

author: twospoons
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2020, 02:24:57 am
content: I wouldn't bother. Wireless charging is awfully inefficient (under 70%, can be as low as 50%, from memory) - you'd end up wasting a lot of your power bank capacity.Qi may be convenient for a fixed bench charger but if you are lugging a power bank around you want to get every last Joule out and into your phone.Use a cable.FYI I have worked for a company designing Qi wireless chargers.

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2020, 05:35:53 am
content: I really like the magnetic usb cables.Keep a small magnetic plug in your phone and then the cable goes on and off easily without wearing out the jack.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2020, 11:57:28 am
content: Wireless fast charging usually consumes 2A @ 5V to charge your phone at about 1.1A @ 5V, meaning about 5W is lost as heat while charging wirelessly,There is a reason those chargers get warm / hot,If you want every last drop of power, use a cable, pick a bank with a QC3.0 controller if fast charging is your priority,

author: FrankE
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2020, 07:21:50 pm
content: Quote from: Kasper on February 19, 2020, 05:35:53 amThat was my reasoning for thinking of getting one.Quote from: Rerouter on February 19, 2020, 11:57:28 amThanks. Does QC3.0 work with Samsung Galaxy S? Samsung Fast Wireless Charging 2.0 @>=10W) andQi wireless were mentioned but both for wireless. Not sure what protocols are in use for charging.I prefer using slower charging for Lithium (and NiMHs) to keep down heat and preserve longevity of cells, though I guess there will be times I would want to use faster charging.
wireless power design considerations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rookie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2019, 09:02:13 pm
content: Hey y'allI'm currently evaluating the addition of wireless charging to a low power project I'm working on. Upon surveying available chips in the market, it looks like a lot of the big players have removed their low power Qi offerings (<5W), like ST, IDT or completely exited the market(TI). Most manufacturers now focus on 5W and above. Anyways, I'm interested in building a device that's <2W, but I don't have the bandwidth to make the TX and RX side of the system.To simplify things, I am trying to focus on the receiver on my project and leave the TX to a retail product. The other option is obviously to do both. Has anyone gone either route, or considered wireless charging on their projects at all? Apart from heat, an important consideration is quiescent power consumed by these chips when on battery which range from 20-40uA which is kind of high for low power projects. This seems to be the range of current consumption regardless of whether a Qi protocol is followed or not (LTC4124, bq51003, BD57011AGWL).So - has anyone included wireless power on their projects and what trade-offs(power/heat/scope of design) did you consider when deciding to use wireless power?
Wireless power transfer feedback circuit (Wireless charger) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Bebe
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 09, 2019, 12:59:44 am
content: Hello, i'm trying to design a smartphone wireless charger and i encountered a problem. I want to add a feature to detect when a device is placed on the charging pad to improve efficiency. For this i think i have to monitor the output waveform somehow, so i bought a few chinese wireless chargers to experiment with this. I noticed that when placing a device on the charging pad the waveform changed shape in every case (it becomes more like a triangular wave). All the chargers i bought have this feature so i tried to reverse engineer the feedback circuit to try to understand how to implement this. I did this with two different chargers and they both seem to have the same feedback circuit. My problem is that i can't quite understant it so i was thinking that maybe i made some mistakes when reverse engineering. From what i see they have a diode envelope detector of witch output is connected to a mcu pin through a voltage divider. The envelope detector's output is also connected to an op-amp circuit that i'm still trying to understand. I will atach the schematic i reverse engineered from the chinese wireless chargers. For the first op-amp part (The A instance) i see that the "+" input is ac coupled then it ads a ~2V DC offset with the (100/75K) voltage divider and i think the capacitor in series with the 10k resistor from the feedback loop is there so only the AC component is amplified (but i'm not sure about this). The B instance i don't understand at all, it doesn't make sense to me so i thought that i might missed something. Both op-amps (it's a LM358) outputs and the voltage divider (from the envelope detector) output are each connected to one of the mcu pins. I would apreciate if someone with more experience could help me understand this circuit or give me some ideas on how to implement it. I'm using an atmega328 MCU and a H-bridge to drive the LC resonant circuit. Thank you!
Wireless Power Transfer for Quadrotors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Schottky
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2013, 10:43:23 pm
content: Hi everyone,I'm working on a research project about inductive powering and charging. I thought I would demonstrate the possible applications of wireless power transfer in RC planes and helicopters. So I modified a small quadrotor by removing it's battery and attaching a coil to it in an attempt to make it lift off using only inductive coupling. Another coil is placed under it which is driven by a Class E DC/AC inverter at 800 kHz.

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2013, 11:00:08 pm
content: Cool.
Wireless RF preamplifier or booster - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: DeanSanders
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 11:48:03 pm
content: Can a person determine the Bands used on a given cell tower, and if so, is a homebrew RF preamplifier or booster possible? I see commercial boosters are not cheap, and I assume it's because of the multi band problem. I live in the country and would like to get away from my satellite internet system. I am getting enough 4G LTE signal for cell phone use, but not strong enough for good wireless internet use. The antenna is an external Log Periodic Yagi. Will I need a preamplifier for receiving and an amplifier for transmitting? Any advice or information will be greatly appreciated. ThanksDean Sanders

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2017, 12:18:59 am
content: I faced exactly that same problem a few years ago in Northeast Ohio (45 miles Southwest of Cleveland). Verizon worked OK for cellphone. I went the amplifier route and various other Verizon options without success. Then, just as I was getting ready to buy a 60+' tower, the local FOIS (Armstrong) stopped at my door. Armstrong was extending fiber optic service to my area. That was a no brainer.Were are you? Have you checked with the nearest fiber optic players to find out their plans? In my situation, Verizon, Warner, AT&T, Sprint, etc. had "no information." You cannot depend on what competitors tell you. Go to the actual players.John

author: donmr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2017, 05:45:44 pm
content: No, it is not practical or legal (at least in the US). mobile phones use complicated signaling and you would be transmitting on frequencies only your provider has a license for. They would have to evaluate your device and give their permission....There are commercial products available that do this, look at Wilson Electronics <www.wilsonamplifiers.com>.You have to get one that works for your provider and your connection type (3G, 4G, LTE, ...). These are costly and the large number of "standards" does not help.
Wireless RGB Snowflakes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: philomelus
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 19, 2020, 11:25:53 pm
content: I created a snowflake shaped PCB with schematic in KiCad last year. Each 125mmx132mm PCB has 36 RGB LED's, as well as an ST ARM microcontroller with wireless capabilities (including an antennae on the PCB). I have NO IDEA if this actually works, as they ended up costing more than I was willing to pay for the PCB's and parts, but I uploaded the project to Github (https://github.com/philomelus/snowflake), if anyone wants to take a look.The PCB is 6 layers (partly why its so much ...), and contains 3 LED controllers. Each board is supplied by a 5v to 17v wall plug, and at 5v will pull a bit over 3a (if the LED's are run at full power).36 LED's may seem like a but much, but my thinking was that I can run the LED's at lower power and because of the quantity very complex color mixing can be accomplished, making for some potentially fantastic results.I also did a release of the Gerber's in both formats (second being X2), so anyone can take a quick look with any gerber viewer.I never completed the firmware for this, since I didn't actually make any of them. However, I'd be happy to help make the firmware if anyone is inclined to create the PCB's (programming has been my day job for over 30 years). Some of the design decisions make the firmware fairly easy for anyone with MCU experience (the 3 LED controllers are on a two wire interface (I2C/TWI), with each controller a different address, so all 3 can be initialized, etc. with a single command sequence, but then also individually addressed for special effects).

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2020, 12:16:56 am
content: any reason for not using WS2812 leds,no need for multiple led drivers,just 1 data line and as many leds (theoretically) as you like

author: philomelus
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 20, 2020, 07:51:13 am
content: Quote from: themadhippy on November 20, 2020, 12:16:56 amProtocol preference and cost.
Wireless Sensors for Arduino and the IOT - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: DedeHai
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 24, 2016, 08:24:09 am
content: Greetings everyoneat the first mini Maker Faire in Zürich, Switzerland I introduced my project 'Lambda Nodes' and I was surprised on the attention it got.The project is small wireless sensors based on NRF24L01 transceiver modules with the goal to be small, easy to use, low cost and open source. To my knowledge there is no such thing yet: either the sensors are expensive, bulky or closed source.I recently made a simple introduction website on wordpress. So if this sounds interesting please check it out:https://lambdanodes.wordpress.com/The project is in an advanced state, all the hardware is working and the software is almost bug-free. The usability still needs to be improved a little but it is almost plug&play.I am hoping to get some more in-depth feedback here on the forum. Yes, this is my first postLong time EEVblog viewer though. Oh and sorry the project is not yet open source, it will be as soon as I get around to actually start crowd-funding for having them manufactured at Seeedstudio.Here are some specs of the advanced prototypes:Radio frequency: 2.4GHzTransmission range: up to 70mBattery: CR2032Battery life: up to 3 yearsTheta Node (Temperature)Size: 43x22x9mm (LxWxH)Accuracy: ±0.5°CResolution: 0.02°CSensor: precision NTCRange: -20°C to 80°C (up to 250°C with external NTC)Epsilon Node (Soil Moisture probe)Size: 100x22x9mm (LxWxH)Resolution: 0.1% (0% is dry, 100% is fully wet)Sensor: capacitive probeKappa Node (environment sensor)Size: 43x22x9mm (LxWxH)Sensor: BME280Measures temperature, humidity and pressureAlpha Node (receiver station)Size: 50x50x12mm (LxWxH)Uses ESP8266 for WiFiSD card for local data-loggingContains configuration web-pageThe receiver station is of course optional, it also works with any hardware that can interface to an NRF24L01 (Arduino, Raspberry, ...).My table at the mini Maker Faire in Zürich
WIRELESS SPRINKLER CONTROL PROJECT IDEA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: zboltman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 23, 2024, 06:54:02 pm
content: Have a project idea that I don't know how to implement.Have a sprinkler controller in the garage at the front of the house.Would like to it to control sprinkler valves for the back yard but I can not run wires between the two points.There is a 60'distance with 4 walls and a kitchen to go thru.Need a wireless idea to control sprinkler valves. (There is 120vac present in the backyard)Please help me lay some groundwork for this project. While I'm well versed in basic electronics; I have no idea where to start with this.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2024, 03:10:35 am
content: https://opensprinkler.com/

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2024, 03:22:28 pm
content: Make the sprinklers react to light, or to music "play your favorite tune, to water the gardune", or to trigger when they detect a stray cat!
Wireless TV - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jarleiceman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2013, 06:43:04 pm
content: HeiI have a problem, I have an ALTIBOX PRV, ALTIBOX ROUTER, PHILIPS TV 55" (2013) 3D...and then I have a Philips TV in my bedroom...I want to whatch TV in my bedroom,but I dont't want to use Wireless system...too expensive...I know I can use a "splitter" from the ALTIBOX PVR (HDMI)and just turn off my TV in the livingroom......But here is the kick: I want too use a cable With a RC-reciver in the bedroom so I can change channel on the ALTIBOX PVR-Box in bed.So, where do I conect this cable in the ALTIBOX PVR-Box...? Can I just parallell-couple it on the Box RC-reciver-diode...and where can I get this kind of cable...?I know I can use my Android too use on my TV...but not on the ALTIBOX PVR-Box...From the man in the Northjarleiceman
Wireless usb - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: House91320
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2011, 06:29:55 pm
content: Dose any one know of a wireless usb ic?

author: Wartex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2011, 07:28:51 am
content: Take a wireless USB hub aparthttp://ncix.com/products/?sku=48226

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2011, 08:18:21 am
content: Or leave it as it is, and just provide a USB socket in your device to plug a WI-FI stick in.If you really need ICs, contact Ralink, Atheros, Broadcom and the like. Be warned, those ICs aren't intended for DIY usage, are hard to find in small quantities and it is hard for a hobbyist to find enough information about a chip or chipset (including firmware license) to get on running from scratch in an own design. This is a high-volume market with a lot of secrecy around it.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 06, 2011, 08:47:12 am
content: Plugging in a Wifi stick requires USB host, driver for the stick and a 802.11 and tcp/ip stack on your device. Probably only practical if you run something like embedded Linux.
Wirelessly-powered POV display - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: zigunov
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 07:08:47 pm
content: Hello, fellow hobbyists! I'm mostly a passive forum reader, but I thought this project I built might inspire some of you...I wanted to make a POV display, but as I was designing it I realized that delivering power to a spinning circuit is a major issue. Most hobbyists just stick a battery to the spinning part, but I really wanted to have a long-lasting kind-of-maintenance-free display. So I decided to go wireless and learn some wireless transfer circuitry in the process. Maybe this is some idea you guys would find somewhat interesting...I published some words on Instructables.com (https://www.instructables.com/id/POV-Display-With-Wireless-Power/), if you wanna take a closer look.It actually doesn't prime as a POV display (but we do these projects to learn, don't we?), but the wireless circuit transfer to power a spinning device could actually be used on other contexts, maybe?
Wires question for ~ 15 meter of WS2815 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: onesixright
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2022, 09:57:21 am
content: Hi All,I have a project where I want to connect 15 x 1 meter of WS2815 (LED strip). This will be installed under the staircase (15) treads.My idea would be to run the 12VC and GND on 1 mm2 stranded wire. Each section will be connected inparallel.The total length of VCC/GND is ~ 15 meter to the power supply.The signal/data wire needs to be connected in series.I wanna double check the wire size/gauge.My questions are:1. is 1 mm2 for VCC/GND OK?2. what should I do for the signal/data wire? Also 1mm2? or is 0.5mm2 sufficient?Some feedback appreciated, thanks!
Wires to the metal tabs of a 10Ah LiPo - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2025, 11:50:01 am
content: This used 10Ah LiPo is still in good shape, but with no protection and no wires, only two thin and flimsy aluminium tabs for plus and minus. It is about the size of a mobile phone:Picture fromhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/is-this-a-magic-pot-or-a-self-healing-li-ion-battery/The Al tabs feels weak and ready to break, they don't look capable of any mechanical stress.I want to attach some wires, then a protection board recovered from a dead Li-ion of a former mobile phone. The protection board was inside a much smaller battery of only 1.5Ah, but I won't use the 10Ah to power heavy loads anyway, only for small electronic.Most probably the battery will be used in a weather sensor. Outdoors temperatures, fog, wind, etc., but away from any direct sunlight or rain.How to connect some wires to the metal tabs?Don't have a spot welder, and don't have special flux for soldering on aluminium. I did solder on Al before (with oil, no AL flux), but I think that would require too much heating. I'm afraid I'll damage the battery inside, or its plastic pouch.Should I try to improvise a spot welder from a big electrolytic capacitor?Should I try to crimp the Al material together with a multistrand copper and a crimp wire terminal?Maybe just clamp an alligator and fix all in place with a glue gun?Or a screw + nut through the al tab?Any other ideas or observations about attaching some wires to the metal tabs, or about the battery destination?

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2025, 01:21:31 pm
content: Use a pair of pliers and a rubber band as a soldering heatsink, then you can get the end of the tab as hot as necessary without worrying about damage.

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2025, 05:03:57 pm
content: Make a hole using bog standard office hole punch (drilling to the tabs is impossible, it will just tear, dubious even with tightly clamped wooden blocks on both sides). (Practice first with some dummies so that you learn to make the hole in the middle. And be careful not to short the battery because the hole punch is metal.) Then use ring lugs (those automotive crimp type stuff) and some M3 or M4 size screw and nut.
Wiring 12V right to the SLA for a UPS? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Purduephotog
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 12:41:14 am
content: I admit I've done this for some time on other gear, but now that I have a moment to spare I'm going back and wondering if this was the smartest thing I've done recently.I have a number of UPS units that protect devices that run off of either 12V, 5V, or USB-C (or 5). I'd like to rack the power converters and go right from DC-DC into the individual devices off of the battery, and just let the float/charging circuit kick in as needed.I'm failing to see the downsides, and (in this case) the battery is a flooded deep cycle marine with 200AH of capacity. It would be quite a few more exposed wires and bare PCBs which I can nicely enclose.How much fireproofing should I put around my project, or am I better off discarding the idea and going back to AC-DC?
Wiring 3 lead-acids simultaneously in series and parallel - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 22, 2014, 02:13:28 pm
content: I'm very inexperienced with electronics, but I've bought this kit to convert my bicycle into electric. As for now I'm thinking of using three lead-acid batteries that I have already. Two of them are "gel" type and one is a "maintenance-free" type. I already have a quite expensive and beefy 12V lead-acid battery charger, and my motor runs off 36V. So I attempted to wire the batteries both in series and parallel, but that resulted in smoke.I want to run them in series for the motor and simultaneously have a parallel connection where I'd hook up my charger, is this possible? Would two beefy diodes work?Thanks.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2014, 02:30:16 pm
content: Quote from: TheAmmoniacal on August 22, 2014, 02:13:28 pmOnly with a switch, or with two different wiring harnesses not connected to the batteries at the same time.

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2014, 03:02:46 pm
content: Quote from: TheAmmoniacal on August 22, 2014, 02:13:28 pmYou can't simultaneously have a series and a parallel connection at the same time without smoke. No amount of diodes will help you.It's also a bad idea to connect different types of batteries in series, especially if the capacity varies between the batteries.You either need a 36v charger or three (isolated) 12v chargers or you will have to physically re-arrange the connections for charging, either manually or via high current switches/relays.
Wiring a toggle switch with integrated LEDs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: extan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 23, 2022, 04:18:17 pm
content: I got one of thesefancy toggle switcheswith built-in LED indicators. It's SPDT (on-off-on), with the LED indicator red in one on position, green in the other. This switch has 3 terminals for for the SPDT, and 3 separate terminals to drive the LEDs.I wired it up based on my interpretation of theNKK datasheet, (excerpted attachments 1 and 2), and everything worked fine. When lit, each LED drew 13ma, as designed...After a little testing, the green LED stopped working. Uh oh. A little while later, the red stopped too. Dang, I must have messed up! But what??I've got 13V attached to the common on the SPDT (pin 2), which is wired to the "common" of the LEDs (pin 5) through a 820R ballast resistor. The other LED legs (4&6) are joined together and grounded. 820R was confirmed experimentally (per attachment 2: IF=10ma, Max 25ma), and checked againstNKK's supplement). This consistently drew 13ma, and Ialwayshad my power supply set to limit current to 20ma.I then tested again with no ballast, just straight to a 10ma limited power supply. Again nothing :-(I'm completely baffled by this. I must be doing something wrong but can't figure out what it could be. How could I have fried the LEDs with current limited to 20ma? Am I misreading the datasheet? Does this switch somehow do something differently that I'm just missing?Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/633-M2113CFhttps://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/295/M2100-1662197.pdfhttps://www.nkkswitches.com.hk/documents/products/support/lamps_leds.pdf

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2022, 04:25:32 pm
content: Some power supplies have some capacitance at the ouput, after the regulation stage.When connecting a low impedance load, that capacitance will cause a current spike and might kill it.Try setting the voltage to about 12-20V 10mA, then short the leads, if you see any sparks you know there's capacitance there.Small signaling leds are very intolerant to high current spikes!Never connect it without a resistor, also ensure there's no way for the wiring to short the resistor and completely bypass the current limit.

author: extan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 23, 2022, 09:55:22 pm
content: oh wow, that makes a lot of sense. (and I am able to get a spark)I guess I was destined to learn that lesson at some point in my life. Hopefully this is the last time... :-)I very much appreciate your help!

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2022, 10:06:32 pm
content: Do you have oscilloscope?If so, you can check this easily, set it like now (12V 10mA), take 1ohm resistor and connect the psu ground and the scope to it, configure the scope as single shoot, about 1V/div and 10us/div.Connect the positive briefly to discharge the output, you might need several tries adjusting the scope, but eventually you will capture the peak.Using 1ohm resistor you now 1volt means 1amp, so it's easy to know the peak amperage.
Wiring for Primo EM-265 electret condenser microphone capsule - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NeverEtched
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 17, 2023, 01:02:30 pm
content: HiThanks for looking at this post.Some while ago I bought two EM-265 Condenser mike capsules (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282552371896), and a selection of capacitors and resistors to match the recommended circuit.I can't find my notes, and I can't find what appears to be a reliable circuit diagram online.Before I buy two different mikes (with clear instructions), I wondered if anyone can help me out with the correct values and connections for these EM-265s.Cheers!

author: dobsonr741
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2023, 02:08:01 pm
content: What are you wiring up to? The recommended 2K bias resistor is to 1.5V. The capacitor depends on your input specs. See the dataset:https://primomic.com/pdf/EM265.pdf

author: NeverEtched
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 17, 2023, 03:56:52 pm
content: Fantastic!Embarrassed I didn't find this myself (when you did pretty-much instantly). Thank you very much. Excellent.Immediate use I'm thinking of plugging them into the mike input of an Olympus WS-311m digital voice recorder.A compatible Olympus external mike (electret condenser ME-51S) has an output impedance of 2.2k Ohms. Its specs also mention 'Power Supply: Plug-in-power system (1.5V - 10V)': I've measured a voltage of 2.2v (-ve ground, 2.2v hot) per channel on the recorder, so I'm wondering whether the resistor & capacitor are internal to the recorder too. Maybe the easiest way is just to wire the capsule directly to the recorder's input jack and see what happens?I'd also like to use them with a basic microphone mixer (https://amzn.eu/d/besQr9n), but have no detailed specs for that. I've used the mixer ok with commercial electret condenser mikes. I assume I'd need the power/resistor/capacitor for the EM-265s. Perhaps there's a 'default' capacitor value I could try? Or I suppose I could simply buy a couple of other mikes which come with instructions...Thanks for the help. Much appreciated!

author: dobsonr741
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2023, 12:52:54 am
content: 10uF. Some good read here:https://sound-au.com/articles/mic-electret.htm

author: NeverEtched
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 19, 2023, 11:43:48 pm
content: I'll use a 10uF then.Thank you for that, and the linked article.Much appreciated.
Wiring of ETD Transformers  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Bounatacan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2020, 10:19:09 am
content: I couldn't find a source online about wiring these transformers below, they are going to be step down transformers. All help is appreciated)

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2020, 12:23:33 pm
content: Welcome.Those are high frequency cores, for switch-mode power supplies and converters. They are not suitable (useable) for mains frequency step down transformers.

author: Bounatacan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 28, 2020, 08:28:51 pm
content: I think I worded it wrong, they are supposed to be converters for high voltages

author: temperance
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2020, 08:49:31 pm
content: This might help to get you started:https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/SMPSRM-D.PDF
Wiring up an RGB POV toy - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: konzill
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 12, 2019, 11:04:44 pm
content: I'm working on a little spinning POV toy with 8 common cathode rgb LEDs.My plan it to wire them to an atTiny85 through 3 daisy chained 74HC595 shift registers.I'm just wondering about the best way to arrange this.The simplest way would be to just wire up in series, with 3 pins per LED. Alternatively I could split things out so that I have one physical shift register for each colour. This would of course mean a bit of a tangle of wires.I'm inclined to go with the first option that gives the simpler wiring and let code worry about packing pixel data. Has anyone here done similar project in the past? Any advice is greatly appreciated?
Wish to design a DC-DC buck converter  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Md Mubdiul Hasan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2022, 01:11:21 am
content: Hi,Suggest me a control chip or design for a DC-DC buck converter.Here is the specification.1. Maximum input voltage=48 V2. Minimum input voltage=36V3. Nominal output voltage = 12 (plus minus 5%)4. Maximum output current=10A5. Operating temerature = -40 to 806. OVR protection7.OCR protection8. "ENABLE" Signal9. "FAULT" signal10. LED indication.Hope you will help me.Hasan

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2022, 01:17:15 am
content: https://webench.ti.com/power-designer/switching-regulator

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2022, 01:33:14 am
content: https://www.mdspower.com/isolated2-dc-dc-converter-20-60vdc-to-12vdc-20a-ict206012-20ai2https://www.mdspower.com/isolated2-dc-dc-converter-20-60vdc-to-12vdc-12a-ict206012-12ai2playing in the ranges you need better buy an already made one, sure you wont have all the options you need but ...Someone link generate around ten designs, you have to complete them and do tryouts, and you may end with a costly solution in some cases Or not ??

author: rooppoorali
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2022, 05:03:04 am
content: I think you can choose LM2577 IC for your design.

author: Md Mubdiul Hasan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2022, 05:22:42 am
content: Quote from: rooppoorali on July 25, 2022, 05:03:04 amIts 10A output!

author: Md Mubdiul Hasan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2022, 08:53:58 am
content: Quote from: coromonadalix on July 25, 2022, 01:33:14 amsomeone asked me to design it other than buy in online.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2022, 02:55:02 pm
content: not being rudethat "someone" will need to pay/compensate you for all the research hours put into this project, parts you will need too buy, pcb's you will need to make, tryouts and errors etc ....been there done that, now i will simply buy what i need lollthis remark was not to discourage you, but here at eevblog you wont get all the answers you need, but good pointers, comments, or link(s) to some projects ....You will have to do some work on your side too ..

author: Md Mubdiul Hasan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2022, 03:58:47 am
content: Quote from: Someone on July 25, 2022, 01:17:15 amI got from here. Dont you think this IC can applicable , see attachedlm5088.pdf
Learning about vacuum tubes, and need advice on high voltage power supplies - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: daflory
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2019, 05:38:07 pm
content: Hello everyone,I am an EE student and would like to experiment with vacuum tube devices this summer. I have some interesting VFD glass I'd like to learn to drive and would also like to experiment with thermionic rectifiers and amplifier circuits.I need advice for how best to generate the high bias voltages I'll need. I am not ready to build a linear HV PSU from scratch and appropriate PSU's seem to be very rare and expensive even on the used market.Please correct me if I make any errors, but it looks like two independent 100V adjustable @ ~150mA would be adequate to study the operation of most common tubes. I don't need high power output.All the tube power supplies I've seen are linear, and I assume there's a reason for that. Are voltage doublers and boost circuits acceptable for my application?Lastly, I'd appreciate any advice for how to safely measure high voltage output with an oscilloscope.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2019, 06:08:54 pm
content: I don't do vacuum tubes but this "Big Iron" video seems like a good start point.

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2019, 03:53:32 am
content: By & large, you can get away with a fairly simple linear supply for vacuum tubes.In most cases, regulation is not required, the main thing being to get hum as low as possible.100v would probably be OK for normal "playing about", but a bit more would be useful.Yes, voltage doublers can be used for higher voltages, & were commonly used in the last generation of tube TVs.(at least in Australia)If you could pick up a domestic radio with a transformer power supply, you could use that.Unfortunately, such things are a bit rare in North America, due to US manufacturers' love affair with the "All American Five" type of transformerless radio.In Oz, those things were commonly known as "death radios"!

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2019, 04:26:30 am
content: This looks promising:Stancor P-8624 power transformer

author: ivaylo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2019, 07:01:08 am
content: https://youtu.be/mEFdADrU9MAHe needs -300V here, but same principle of construction applies for your case, just find a proper transformer.
With all the talk about flash... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2016, 12:55:44 pm
content: One thing I noticed in the other thread was this 3 month figure given when it is AT the rated P/E cycles. What about if it is new or not at the end of its life. If you took a new piece of flash and programmed it, how long would it be reliably readable? 1 year? 2 years? 5 years? 10? 20? etc.Some of the i2c EEPROM I've been using says 200 years...

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2016, 05:10:07 pm
content: Quote from: alank2 on May 27, 2016, 12:55:44 pmMost flash ICs specify 20 years of data retention.

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2016, 05:18:54 pm
content: It depends on the type of flash: I2C EEPROMs use NOR flash and are designed for a high number of write cycles with no biterrors, while SSD uses multi level NAND flash, designed for maximum density. NAND flash has a high number of bit errors, therefore requires a strong error correction.The data retention of NOR flash is much higher than for NAND flash because of the much larger cell size.

author: ion
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2016, 06:42:44 pm
content: It seems to be related to the process size.After coming across that thread I decided to read up on it and it seems that high density flash chips using the smaller feature sizes currently available tend to be rated for 1 year at room temperature at worst ( at least from the datasheets I found in the short time I spent searching). High temperatures seem to have a significant effect on that though.Lower density stuff with correspondingly larger feature sizes are more like 20 years, and I think I saw something about some types of SLC chips having a data retention of up to 100 years.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2016, 06:42:48 pm
content: Quote from: alank2 on May 27, 2016, 12:55:44 pmIt depends on the type of flash, the density, the gate sizes, etc. Some will last a few months, some will last for decades. See the datasheet.Storage temperature is a big factor.

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2016, 07:20:56 pm
content: Yeah, refer to the datasheet.One small 8mbit device I'm using claims 200 years retention and 4 million write cycles. Obviously NOR technology (eeprom).cheers,george.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2016, 07:50:36 pm
content: The datasheet for AVR chips (Arduino) says:"Data retention: 20 years at 85°C/100 years at 25°C"I don't have any other datasheets at hand.
WLCSP and ucBGA PCB manufacturers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Yaro
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2015, 01:10:46 pm
content: Hi all,I was looking for PCB manufacturers and found some "known" companies that produce 4 layers prototype boards at very low price(I don't know if I can link in this forum company websites). But I've found that no one can support ucBGA an WLCSP packages.Can someone advice me a company (European, American or China) that produce produce prototype boards(1-3/5pcs) at low price? If it's a realiable and tested it's better.Thank you!

author: Yaro
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2015, 02:32:12 pm
content: I add that WLCSP I'm using have 0.4mm ball pitch, but seems impossible to find someone that can do this type of boards using google.