hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Teardown of a Mantis-1 from Vision Engineering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sixtimesseven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2021, 10:15:00 pm
content: Today I disassembled the Mantis-1 (I guess) which I got for cheap from a dental shop for cheap.Had a lot of dust inside and I wanted to disconnect the fan and put GU-4 LED's in.

author: hulk69
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2021, 02:35:46 pm
content: Really it looks like there is not much to it... 2 mirror a lens...

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2021, 09:02:02 pm
content: Quote from: hulk69 on August 31, 2021, 02:35:46 pmHad no idea these were so basic inside, the optics look relatively simple and available too. Why hasn't anyone cloned this design yet?

author: sixtimesseven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2021, 09:36:38 pm
content: Quote from: thm_w on August 31, 2021, 09:02:02 pmApparently the new ones have some kind of "spinning disk" inside. But I find the old model more than adequate so a cheaper, new option would be great

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2021, 10:36:11 pm
content: Quote from: thm_w on August 31, 2021, 09:02:02 pmChances are it’s one of those things where the devil is in the detail. Large, sloppy optics are cheap enough to make; large,preciseoptics arehellishlyexpensive to make. A ton of effort will have gone into giving it a sharp optical path, reducing chromatic aberration, etc. And don’t forget that keeping the optics aligned is critical, so the housing itself is probably quite expensive to make.
ZD-915 desoldering station: blown transistor on power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: THM60
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2021, 07:35:57 am
content: Hi, first post here and it's for requiring your helpI stupidly blew a regulator on my ZD-915 power supply by inverting wires when connecting the output to a DC-DC converter. I had replaced the cheesy "voltage dropping" device installed by the manufacturerwith a nice adjustable converter and testing went well, now motor and fan are receiving the voltage they are designed for,i.e. 12V.Unfortunately, when rewiring the thing I inadvertdly inverted positive and negative wires on the DC-DC converter's input. Of course when I powered it, regulator T1 was instantly blasted, so badly that I can't even read what was written on it (see photo).Here's my question : what part number shall I order to repair the PS ?Thanks !

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2021, 05:17:15 pm
content: Here they repaired it with a FSCQ1265RThttp://monitor.espec.ws/section8/topic204373.html

author: THM60
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2021, 05:53:52 am
content: Hi,Thank you.I replaced the blown Fairchild FSCQ0565. Desoldering station is repaired and working like a charm.Picture of the newly installed DC-DC converter, motor and fan now working with correct voltage.
Adjustable platform for microscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Tooms
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 05, 2021, 11:12:32 am
content: Always find it hard to adjust items under the microscope to be at the perfect distance from the mantis elite microscope and have something stable when working on the items.So I build a small platform of some kitchen worktop and some small vertical lift linear from AliExpressWhat do you guys use ?RegardsTooms

author: costas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2021, 05:07:27 pm
content: Hi ,interesting idea, you have a link for small vertical lift from Aliexpress ?Thank you ,Costas

author: Tooms
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 09, 2021, 05:32:32 pm
content: Table is cut to 50x50cm and is 4cm thick (That is an good thing that the weight gives it some good stability)If i had to do it again, i think i only will have made the depth 40cm but the 50cm wide is perfect.For mount on the sides, i used two Aluminum angle 40x40x4mm length 40cm (yes they are shorter then the depth to keep them a little in)I selected them to be 4mm thick to have strong mount of the vertical lifthttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301135398191"60x40MM Z-axis Manual Column Lifting Platform Laboratory Optical Displacement Platform Stroke 50MM/80MM/120MM Y"I have selected 80mm stroke and that is perfecthttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/33043505392.htmlit is costing a little but i am very happy with it and think that it is an perfect solution.As further upgrade to the setup i have order an light box and a fume extractorThe light box is this one, it is to get more light and be able to under light pcbhttps://www.amazon.com/Huion-A3-Light-Tattoo-Tracing/dp/B00DNPCZVG?ref_=ast_sto_dpThe fume extractor is this one, it looks to be small in size and has both light and fume extractor so it help pull it away from the microscope lens.it will be mount on the lift table on the back sidehttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203508336404Tooms

author: Tooms
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 09, 2021, 05:55:38 pm
content: The aluminum angle and the Lifting is screwed together with 4x 4mm bolt that is not seen because the head is hidden by the table wood, just drill some holes to hidden the screwed headThe aluminum angle is mount with screws on the underside

author: costas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2021, 08:02:57 pm
content: Thank you for details .Very good ideas but I don't think I can apply them in my laboratory , I have a lot of equipment and tools and I don't see where this adjustable platform would fit , maybe only after a total reorganization !Costas.

author: Tooms
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 09, 2021, 08:18:50 pm
content: The good thing about my platform is there is table space both under and on top of it.... so you get more space

author: Tooms
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 10, 2021, 04:45:51 pm
content: Got the light table and fume extractor installed, it is working super good and lots of light

author: costas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2021, 04:57:41 pm
content: Looks great, congratulations, good job .
RF remote with 220V AC supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: chemanork
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 08, 2021, 07:00:18 am
content: HI there,I am new, sorry if I have not posted in the correct forum.I am looking for a standard rf remote with 220V AC supply, but I can not find it. All the rf remotes (emitters) work with 12V batteries. I have even found ones that worked without battery but with a dynamo. But not one that works with 220v supply. All rf remote are like the one you would use to open a garage door.The reason I need this is:- I do not want to depend on a battery to run out and the whole setup stop working.- I do not want to replace switches in my house, I want the installation seamless.I tried to wire a 12V psu to one rf remote. I was afraid I could burn it and in fact it burnt.I partilly solved the part of using same switch in the wall I was using in house with a 220V relay that closes the circuit of push button in rf remote. But I could not get rid of the battery.So I have 2 questions for the guys here:- Is there any rf remote that could be feed by psu or by 200V AC?- Is there any way I could attach 12V DC to a rf remote without damage it?THanks and regards,chemanork

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2021, 04:43:00 pm
content: If it works on a 12V battery it should work from a 12VDC supply, did you perhaps get the polarity reversed? Is it a regulated 12V?

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2021, 11:58:51 pm
content: If it's made for 12V, you can power it with any 12V source.Likely you reversed the polarity or used AC power.Did you made proper checks with a multimeter?

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2021, 03:01:34 am
content: Those coin cell batteries have quite a bit of impedance, maybe that needs to be emulated by adding a resistor in series?

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2021, 04:32:24 am
content: A properly designed device that works off a battery should work off a power supply of the same voltage. Unfortunately there are quite a few things out there that are not properly designed and rely on the internal resistance of the battery. Adding a resistor in series with the supply should work though.
"Duratool" desoldering station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TomS_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2021, 01:49:17 pm
content: Hi all.Im looking for a desoldering station, and this one is reasonably inexpensive:https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/desoldering-station-uk-eu-plug/dp/SD01384It looks like its a rebadge special, also known under the Anesty brand and probably others.Ive seen a few YouTubers using similar looking units and it looks like it gets the job done. Im wondering if anyone can give me some tips or pointers about this unit, whether it is worth it, or if there is a better unit to get. I was also looking at the Hakko FX-301, so I guess my budget is up to around the price of one of them.Thanks!

author: nali
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2021, 02:14:06 pm
content: I've got one, not much to say except gets the job done on the odd occasion I need to desolder THT parts. I did once get a blockage which couldn't be cleared with the supplied tool but a 2mmx150mm drill sorted that out.Dave did a review of one the the variants a while back

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2021, 08:12:00 pm
content: You will find a lot of helpful threads on this desoldering station (the CPC one) if you do a forum search for 'ZD-915'.Edit: It is one of the better variants - Glass solder collection tube, wider element barrel etc. (and cheap bits and spares from CPC).
Quick TR1100 Pencil Hot Air Rework Station With Video!!  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: KG7AMV
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2021, 03:24:56 am
content: I just got a quick TR1000 Rework Station for the lab. Gave it a test run and I like it and will have its place on the bench.I am Awaiting the larger TR1300A any day.So, Bear with me I am new to doing youtube videos..https://youtu.be/ar_691qlbx0
JBC clones Vs alternate handles - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gaspoweredcat
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 05:18:38 pm
content: the question kind of runs both ways really, many of the JBC copies use the same connector as the original station, so can you use an original JBC handle on say a Sugon T26 and could you plug in say a c115 handle instead? likewise can the clone handles be used on original JBC stations, i know the tips are compatible but im not sure about the actual handles. some seem potentially really good value, apparently the new Sugon T16 comes with a T12 handle but can work with a T210 as well, it doesnt mention others though. my guess is that many may well be cross compatibleany info is appreciated so if you have tried some sort of combo please report back with the station and iron you tried so we know what has the best support(hope im not breaking any rules with this)

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2021, 11:38:20 pm
content: If it uses the same connector as the original station, then you could plug it into an original station, most likely would work.You can't plug a NT115/C115 handle into a clone station as the connector is different. If you could, somehow, it may burn it up unless you limit the power going to it. The C115 tips use 9V instead of 24V.T210 you could plug in, but I believe the thermocouple is flipped? So if the station is not equipped to handle that and detect it as a T210, it could burn it up. Also it uses 12V, so you'd have to limit the power going to it.As for the Sugon T26, it appears to be designed around using the T210 handle only, unless you've read comments otherwise.https://hackaday.io/project/175580-diy-jbc-nano-controllerhttp://adgd.ru/2021/01/04/jbc-soldering-cartridges-pinouts/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/sugon-t26/

author: wickated
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2021, 04:33:44 pm
content: Quote from: thm_w on August 17, 2021, 11:38:20 pmhello im triyng to find info about 210 handle. is it actually powered at 12v ?about subj - also connector is smae, but wiring may be flipped in defferent cloned stations. i got clone stand for clone station and it got flipped wiring. genuine handle would work, but with power driven through TC.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2021, 10:50:18 pm
content: Quote from: wickated on August 18, 2021, 04:33:44 pmhm I may be wrong about that. There is a schematic of CD-2BC that supports T210 here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/jbc-soldering-station-cd-2bc-complete-schematic-analysis/and it only appears to use 24V. Either 12V or 24V will work OK as long as you cap the power at 20W.Power driven through TC should not be an issue.
Braille display repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: syau
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2021, 03:03:04 am
content: Wonder if any member has experience in repairing the braille display. The one I am working on is the Focus family manufactured by Freedom Scientific.The “defect” I encountered is the 2 longest piezo-electric actuators (bimorph benders) tend to bend upward after a year or so which made the dot moved upward when still not energized.In the attached photo, the top assembly is considered as acceptable while the lower actuator on the lower assembly “bend” upward.Sorry for the massive amount of dust on my work place as those unit are very dusty after a year or so.

author: WannesS
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 17, 2021, 08:59:05 pm
content: Is it always the bottom actuator? I'm guessing there's a small bend where the actuator is mounted to the pcb. If you can remove the cover you can probably carefully bend it back.
anyone here order a unisolder from tindie? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mastershake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2021, 05:52:47 am
content: im curious because of cost i mean i dont think i can buy the parts that cheap alone. anyone have exp with the pre built 5.2c lovediy kit from tindie?

author: giovannirat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2021, 09:34:11 pm
content: I bought two kits from lovediy from tindie, one 5.2 and one 5.2c.Both were working, BUT the 5.2c kit had quality issues:1) A few components are not the best, a few look not genuine (other buyers reported that the boards were defective after a short period of time)2) I could not update the software via USB, I had to reprogram the bootloader3) A resistor value was wrong4) Flux all over the board5) Sleep board was missing, the seller promised to send one, but didn't.I can recommend the kit from "vulkan35" from the "dangerousprototypes" forum, very good quality.

author: mastershake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2021, 12:09:17 am
content: thank you i will look vulkan up over there then. i appreciate it.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2021, 09:47:49 pm
content: Post details if you can, especially if vulkan35 has an ordering page/store.NVM, I see he sells directly out of this thread.http://dangerousprototypes.com/forum/index.php?topic=10358.90

author: Ground_Loop
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2021, 12:29:12 am
content: What is the difference between the 5.2 and the 5.2c?

author: mastershake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2021, 12:36:43 am
content: the main diff is the 4 layer pcb vs the 2 layer one from what im told

author: giovannirat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2021, 08:05:15 am
content: The changes for 5.2c are (taken from dangerousprototypes board):- 4 layer boards for front, back and OLED, with better routing (should be dead silent now)- Added protection and filtering on ID MCU pin- Slightly modified filtering of SLEEP signal- SLEEP connected to ADC for future support of tip-change- Removed 7-segment indicator headers- Added header for rotary encoder- Changed connectors between front and back boards from 4 to 6 pin, for separate power line to OLED display- Added filtering between OLED and analog/MCU power- Changed input diodes to DPAK FERD diodes (any diodes will work, FERD are just the best choice)- Changed the TVS to SMC package- Changed fuse holder to one-side SMD to be able to mount heatsink on the back board easily if further cooling is needed
A PSU like they don't do them anymore. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2021, 09:46:01 am
content: A *lot* of copper went into this.The SMPS has a stated MTBF of about 20 years.And as this was a for a high end audio measurement system, they obviously spared no expenses to reduce noise.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2021, 11:39:23 am
content: If you are only making a few dozen probably was cheaper to use all the separate transformers, than contact ILP to get a custom wound toroid with all the secondaries you need, all of them shielded from the other windings. Looks like some of the ones on the left are audio coupling transformers, so pretty hard to make them into one unit, and they probably were all pretty expensive already, so keeping the 2 PCB mount ones with the power supply to provide analogue voltage rails, with the big SMPS to run the digital side, was worth the cost.More worried about the elderly Schaffner mains inlet with combined fuse and filter, as that is much more likely to let out smoke.

author: Petertronic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 14, 2021, 08:39:59 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on July 22, 2021, 11:39:23 amI just had a similar Schaffner filter blow up in a Tektronix signal generator, mid 90's vintage. Huge bang, and the stinkiest smoke ever. I'd replace those things on sight.
polyester conformal coating? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2021, 06:57:06 am
content: Basically, would using really thinned down Q-dope (styrofoam + ethyl acetate) be a good conformal coating? I don't see anything about polyester, only paralyene, polyurethane, etcgreat for coils.. but how about the entire PCB?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2021, 09:52:32 am
content: Will work, but will be both porous, due to the solvent evaporating, and also kind of hard on components that are made from rubber, like electrolytic capacitors, and will also damage polyester film and other capacitors. But for transistors and IC's it will hold them down, along with SMD resistors and ceramic capacitors. Easiest is to grab a can of clear polyurethane spray and do a few light coats on the board to protect it.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2021, 08:53:09 pm
content: I am interested because if you start thinking about how much crap you can dissolve to make a gallon of q-dope you start thinking that you can process alot of shipping foam to make some good stuff real cheap.. I see the point about capacitors, with SMD polyester its a little dangerous unless you design the boardis two part fiberglass resin similar in properties, where it gives a higher quality polyester finish compared to Q-dope, with the same or similar end material (cured polyester vs solvent thinned polyester)? or does it have different properties still? Does the q-dope solvent polyester coat have better electric dielectric properties then the resin version?
Micro Automation M1006 Dicing Saw - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: WannesS
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 18, 2021, 12:04:42 am
content: Inspired byTony's Diamond Chop Saw, I bought an old wafer dicing saw.Thankfully it came with the service manual, sadly without the user manual.It was made in the early 80s. The electronics are in a card cage on a wirewound backplane, with a few control cards and motor driver cards. The stepper motors have glass disc encoders.The spindle is an air bearing spindle, it requires a lot of air at 5bar, and runs at 30k rpm. It needs 2 water pumps, a small one for the spindle cooling and a larger pump for the blade cooling.The wafer is held in place by vacuum on the chuck.I had some issues with the chuck zero circuit. That's where the machine lowers the blade running at full speed onto the precision gauge block, and promises to stop just in time when it detects a sense voltage from the chuck through the blade to the isolated spindle. That part happens on a separate pcb, that's quite a newer version from the other electronics. And judging by the handwritten notes on the service manual, it appears to be a common problem. The reed relay for the sense signal kept failing closed. I'm still not certain what exactly went wrong, but I eventually got it working with another model reed relay, with pin 1 disconnected.
Accessing photos on Tagarno Magnus HD - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DerÄhrenmann
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 16, 2021, 06:18:04 pm
content: Hey everyone,first off sorry if this is the wrong subforum for this kind of stuff, I'm pretty new.I recently got my hands on a Tagarno Magnus HD microscope which works beautifully. However, I can't for the love of me manage to access its internal storage or make it send pictures to my PC. The online manual I found suggests accessing it via smb (Mac/probably also Linux) or as network drive (Windows), however both methods do not work and the manual is probably for a newer version of the microscope anyways. I managed to identify it as DVI camera on a Linux system but still can't access it storage or communicate with it. Has anyone here ever tried to get one of those things to work? Does it require specific software?The microscope is running on firmware version 2.1.I also attached pictures of the connectors, its control panel and its label.Thanks in advance for any help!
Logitech Z906 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: elektro_Jarda
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 16, 2021, 04:41:44 pm
content: Please, give me an advice. The Logitech Z906 began to fluctuate in audio output on a regular basis. The fault is in the switching power supply, which has the designation 94V-0 E 322995, but I did not find the diagram anywhere. Only the 45 V output voltage pulses. The 12 V and 5 V output is OK, verified by an oscilloscope. Thank you for your help or ,if you can find it, for the schematic. I apologize for my bad English.
PSU benchtop 1000$ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: hulk69
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2021, 07:18:11 am
content: Hi AllAny of you know of a Benchtop power supply 0-60V, 300-500W fairly quiet not too big on the bench around 1000$?I would like to replace my TENMA 72-2695 that is1. not powerful enough2. Noisy (in sound and in electronics)" alt="" class="bbc_img" />Thanks all

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2021, 12:38:43 pm
content: Parallel or series operation of two separate supplies may get you close to your specification. I have different model units of the same type so cannot operate them in parallel (see caution attached) to increase current (I could if they were identical models) only in series to increase voltage.With this in mind a pair of Kikusui PMXs may be useful - albeit with forced air cooling they are not silent.edit ..... the footprint is not small

author: hulk69
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2021, 07:59:14 pm
content: Thanks I did not know of this brand Kikusui I will see what is available

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2021, 02:09:49 am
content: Do you think a pair of SDP1305X (30V/5A) or DP711 (30V/5A) or DP712 (50V/3A) power supplies could work for you? They would be a lot less than the $1000 you are allocating.https://siglentna.com/power-supplies/spd1000x-series-programmable-dc-power-supply/https://www.rigolna.com/products/dc-power-loads/dp700/

author: hulk69
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2021, 10:31:41 am
content: Thanks all in the end I found a EA-PSI 9080-40 DT on ebay at 650£ and jumped on ithttps://www.tequipment.net/Elektro-Automatik/EA-PSI-9080-40-DT/DC-Power-Supplies/Lab-Power-Supplies/

author: mawyatt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2021, 10:11:56 pm
content: The Siglent SDP3303X-E is a nice triple output linear supply which can supply 60V at 3.2A in series mode. They are quiet, both audibly and electrically, very accurate and stable. Only issue I'm aware of is if you calibrate the supply, be sure and follow the cal procedure exactly as stated in the manual, otherwiseWe're working with some very expensive developmental electronics, requiring lab type precision and control. Normally we would not trust this to a regular PS, only a lab grade type. After doing some initial testing and verification, we decided on these and they have performed very well indeed, so we have now have 3Best,

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2021, 01:22:05 pm
content: Quote from: hulk69 on August 13, 2021, 10:31:41 amImpressive specs. Although, being switching and not linear, hopefully it is silent - both acoustically and electrically. I hope you enjoy your purchase!
solder tip cleaning brass sponge vs other materials - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: BlackICE
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2021, 10:00:58 am
content: Some have written that you can use "copper" sponges sold in the supermarkets for cleaning pots and pans at a much lower price. I've checked that out and found that they are not made of copper, but are copper coated steel. So I never tried them. I was buying a DMM from Banggood and looked for copper sponges there, found what I thought was a true copper sponge, but I didn't read the fine print, my error. It was claimed to be copper coated stainless steel. I tested it and it was magnetic. It still could be stainless as some alloys are. So I probably won't use it either, my stupid purchase. However even JBC sells stainless steel cleaning sponges for use when you need a stronger cleaner than brass or copper.https://www.jbctools.com/cl6205-inox-wool-product-132.htmlHas anyone use such a product with good results, e.i. cleaning well without damaging the tips?

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2021, 11:53:08 am
content: Hello, Bonjour, interesting question:1/ brass: Assume anything from China is the cheapest knockoff and that nothing is as described.2/ Metal vs sponge: Sharp metal edges abrade the tip coatings. Many tips have a thin plating.3/ We have used the sponges with a hole in center for decades. Much easier on the tip coating.4/ Our equipment is Metcal SP-200 and Hakko old style 936. Other brands may behave differently.Bon Chance,Jon

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2021, 12:03:22 pm
content: Try brass panscourers.While its *POSSIBLE* to brass plate steel,unlike copper plating its a hot process that would be very difficult to do on steel turnings without bonding them together.Edit: it is possible to brass plate from solution but it is significantly more difficult than plain copper plating.I just grabbed a brass panscourer from the kitchen cabinet and checked it with a magnet and by snipping a strand. Its absolutely non-magnetic and not tough enough to be plated steel.

author: bobbydazzler
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2021, 12:56:43 pm
content: I find this tip tinner to be best of all -https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/153730758223?epid=1336715730&hash=item23cb11364f:g:D8YAAOSwNzJgRpqR.I use brass wool mostly to wipe the oxides of the tip and since I got my new t12 station I haven't needed to use the tip tinner so far.I've also tried steel wool and it works fine too but I've heard it wears down the plating on your tip faster, the tip tinner also probably wears down the plating faster than just brass wool.I think the wet sponge may be OK/better than brass if your tip temp isn't so high. The lower your tip temp when you wipe it on the sponge the less the thermal shock.
Metcal HCT2-200 -- Any Good? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: blueskull
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 26, 2018, 06:02:28 pm
content: I'm looking for a slim and ergonomic supplement to my Quick 957DW. As I'm looking for a solution, I found out the HCT2-120 has got a new successor, this time with a 200W heater.I need an ergonomic unit that handles small parts (<=5mm*5mm QFN max, mostly <=4mm*4mm WLCSP chips). I have a pre-heater.Has anyone had any experience with this thing?Budget is not super tight, but still not enough for a JBC complete set.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2018, 08:25:02 pm
content: The 200W model is the 120W's replacement and is rather new, so not seeing any real reviews on it. More importantly, I didn't see it's intended applications to include BGA (just low density boards using 1206 passives and small leaded IC packages such as SOIC or TQFP per Metcal's sales sheet)FWIW however, I'd be concerned about it's build quality (HCT-900 has a poor reliability record if you search the forum).I'd go with aQuick TR1100instead. Nicer UI and ~$100 less shipped for the 110V model.Specs:Power output = 180WAirflow = 1.5 - 7 lpmNoise = 55dB maxComes with 6 nozzles.There's a thread on it's bigger brother (TR1300) and youtube videos on both (same UI, just smaller handles, which are supposed to be interchangeable as I understand it). It's also rated for BGA and you're already familiar with Quick's products and other owners' experiences with their products.One strange bit though, I'm still not seeing it listed on Quick's US or global sites despite the videos and it being available on the market.

author: KG7AMV
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2021, 06:13:42 pm
content: Visual of the Quick TR1100 handle and a Hakko FM-2027 for reference.
Recommended board preheater - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ezalys
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2021, 02:34:34 am
content: Does anyone have a favorite board preheater less than $600 bucks? If I'm doing boards with components on one side, is buying something besides a hotplate worth it? What do people think of the Hakko hot air preheater (FR-830), or just hot air preheaters in general? Are the IR preheaters worth it?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2021, 10:21:25 pm
content: Can't see the FR-830 being that good but never used it.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ir-preheater-and-hot-air-yihua-853/You can get a decent IR preheater for <$200. The hotplate style is ok only if you are using single sided load PCBs.

author: mazurov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2021, 12:12:53 am
content: I use this (no aff.) ->https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GSCTSMAfor about 6 months. Works all right, no complains about the preheater part.

author: costas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2021, 06:52:24 am
content: Hi ,I use Hakko FR 820 I am very satisfied, it is quiet, I made my own hot air work stand with what I found in the warehouse

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 09, 2021, 07:04:06 am
content: Quote from: ezalys on July 29, 2021, 02:34:34 amThat it's overpriced like 3-5 times for what it is.
recommendations?: Good & low cost small, medium, large ESD mats, bags, etc. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: evb149
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2021, 09:43:08 pm
content: Hi -- I'm looking for recommendations ongood (function, durability, quality, features) but relatively low cost small / medium / large ESD mats, bags, accessories.New or good quality industrial / commercial used / surplus acceptable for the mats.Not necessarily "low cost" like order from aliexpress / taobao /ebay for $2US but also not like $200-$1000+ new from desco / 3m / ....Anything worth buying on Amazon or good value & quality on digikey etc.?small: e.g. less than 1m x 1m e.g. 14in x 14 in or whatevermedium: maybe smaller than desk / workbench size but significantly larger than the most minimal sizes.large: covers something like 0.25 to 1.0+ times the surface of a small single person work table / work bench, more than 1m x 0.5m, maybe up to 2m x 1m or slightly more.I'd like options for something soldering heat resistant (suitable for soldering and maybe hot air use) on / near the surface of, and options for others that may be lower cost.It should have some standard or easily equipped by add-on a snap / terminal fixing point to attach a grounding cable of course.Also if you have suggestions for good sources of good quality for the cost accessories like floor mats, wrist / foot straps, cables, terminals, connectors, etc. pleaseinclude those!Metallized conductive bags: properly made ESD bags small (100mm x 100mm?) / medium / large (motherboard size) qty 10-100 or soPink anti-static bags: small / medium / large, 10-100 or so.Foam / misc material: Suitable for lining parts storage drawers, packing, not necessarily for IC DIP insertion.Thanks in advance!

author: Foxtrot of India
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 09, 2021, 02:45:10 am
content: Hi evb149,I'm looking into the same thing as well. Still tying to figure out how all this stuff works, what I actually need and how to use it correctly.The only esd mats I could find that you can drop solder on/touch with parts being solder/reflowed are the nitrile rubber ones. AU$198.98 for a 24" x 36" (609.6mm x 914.4mm) mat.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2021, 03:13:00 am
content: I bought a dark blueSierra FT seriesfrom All-Spec five years ago.It's 24"x48" and still looks like new. Mine is on my home work bench and doesn't get heavy use.It's the cat's meow!I need to get a smaller one for my soldering bench.I no longer solder on it because it's on my test bench and I don't want solder flakes getting into devices I'm testing.I'm partial to the dark-blue (more of a royal blue in person) but there are other colors.All-Spec has a full line of ESD products. (Not exactly cheap.)
JBC AD4200 with PA1200 tweezer  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: costas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2021, 03:16:05 pm
content: Hello , I have a JBC AD4200 station and a PA1200 tweezers with PA8120 stand , unfortunately the stand with the station are not compatible and the tweezers work only on one side. For this station the PA8100 stand would be needed to recognize the PA1200 tweezers. Does anyone have any idea how to change the PA8120 stand to the PA8100? Or a solution to make the PA1200 tweezers work at the AD4200 station. Thank you.Costas

author: costas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2021, 04:48:11 pm
content: Someone who has the PA8100 stand may be kind enough to take some photos of the wires inside between the connectors. Thank you Costas.
Can I calculate this with Casio FX-991EX? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Giorgio124
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 05, 2021, 10:04:16 pm
content: Hello, everybody!Can I calculate this type of equation with the Casio FX-991EX?1000---------- * 3 = 91000 + xIt's obviously a voltage divider when you know the voltage you want to get and you need to identify the resistor type.If not, which model can do that?Thanks!

author: 5370H55V
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2021, 11:46:39 pm
content: Assuming you want to solve for X, the casio can do that with the Solve function.Btw, that equation comes out to X=-666.67

author: Giorgio124
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 06, 2021, 08:54:33 am
content: LOLYou're right. I should have switched 3 and 9.Thank you very much, I'm buying that model then.

author: BlackICE
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2021, 09:24:46 am
content: I'm old school, why would anyone need a special calculator to solve this equation?

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2021, 10:56:54 am
content: If you use that formula very often, it's a pain in the ass to repeat all steps everytime. Also, for sure you'll make mistakes and need to redo it.That way you simply type "x" and get the result.Maybe old-schoolers love losing their time that way

author: BlackICE
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2021, 12:20:18 am
content: I just never found the need nor desire to use a programable calculator. I'm so old I started with a slide rule, moved on to a TI SR50 scientific calculator, then to a TRS 80 computers. The affordable programable calculators came out much later than a TRS80, not counting the expensive early ones like the HP65. I found PC as much easier to program than any calculator so I never had much interest it ever programming a calculator. They are a PITA! Much easier to use a spreadsheet for the easy stuff and write a program when you need to do more.Nowadays I would assume most people have smart phones which would easily replace a calculator and are much easier to find the right app or to program to do what you want. Another choice are the numerous online calculators on the web that you can access. Of course you don't have access to the internet, or a smart phone a calculator is the best choice.

author: mathsquid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2021, 03:04:46 pm
content: Quote from: DavidAlfa on August 06, 2021, 10:56:54 amIf I used this formula a lot, I'd solve for x and then put the formula into a spreadsheet (or octave or something like that).
Sigma 60D Soldering Station - Looking for manual  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kcbanner
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2016, 09:52:35 pm
content: I purchased this soldering station some time ago:https://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NS.So far it's been working great! Came with extra heating elements, fuse, tips, solder sucker and an ESD wrist strap. It heats up really fast, and has a calibration feature of dubious quality.There is one thing that bothers me, there is a decimal point after the temperature that occasionally blinks. As mentioned in a few of the reviews on that amazon page, no one (even the manual) knows what this does. Some have speculated that its an up to temp indicator.I'm wondering if anyone has this station and could scan the manual (I've misplaced mine), and might know what this indicator means.

author: pilon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 03, 2017, 08:35:12 pm
content: Sorry, don't have this station. But I would guess it lights up when the heating element is on/heating,or when it's up to temperature (as you said).Perhaps you could watch the behavior when powering on from cold (room temperature)?Btw, you should probably remove the "." (dot) in your link, so that it works "right out of the box"https://www.amazon.ca/Sigma-60D-Lead-Free-Soldering-Real-time/dp/B00MBQ41NSCheers, P

author: Ringxero
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 12, 2021, 12:04:25 am
content: Found my manual. Hope this helps.Quote from: kcbanner on December 20, 2016, 09:52:35 pm

author: skinned
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 08, 2021, 01:35:06 pm
content: I'm 3 months too late I guess. I have no idea what I did with the damn thing. I still have the box but the manual isn't in there.I was hoping it had specs for the heater cores, but maybe it doesn't.
Banana jack / binding post recommendations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: matthuszagh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2021, 01:25:48 am
content: I recently retrofitted my HP 6632A and 6633A power supplies with front side binding posts (these are system power supplies with the terminals in the back). I bought these 4243 Pomona binding posts (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/pomona-electronics/4243-0/604321). I figured they'd be good because they're Pomona. However, they don't provide a tight fit for my probe master 4mm banana plugs (https://probemaster.com/9151-probe-lead/). Most fit loosely, a few pop right out and won't stay. It's possible my probe master leads are to blame, but I've used them with quite a few banana jacks at this point and never experienced an issue, so I'm inclined to believe the Pomona binding posts are at fault. The Pomona datasheet says they're compatible with standard banana plugs and the opening diameter says 4.22mm, so I thought they'd be ok.Does anyone have binding posts (and single banana jacks) they recommend? I don't mind spending a bit more for ones that work well.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2021, 02:54:15 am
content: I have those test leads and they fit quite snugly into almost everything. Are the Pomona posts shallow depth and they just aren't going in far enough or are the loose and floppy when they are all the way in?

author: matthuszagh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2021, 03:08:09 am
content: Quote from: bdunham7 on August 03, 2021, 02:54:15 amThey're standard depth. They're loose when they go all the way in.

author: Neomys Sapiens
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2021, 06:16:56 pm
content: All parts from Staeubli (formerly MC), SKS (formerly Hirschmann) are beyond reproach.In the US besides Pomona: Mueller Electric, Johnson (Cinch)Also possible:Schuetzingerhttps://www.schuetzinger.de/Schnepphttps://www.schnepp-neudenau.deBueschel Kontakthttps://www.bueschel.com/produkte-bueschelsteckverbinder.htmlRadiallhttps://www.radiall.com/products/rf-coaxial-connectors/multiport-connectors/banana-plugs.htmlAbbatronhttps://www.abbatron.com/products/33-binding-postsCliff Electronic Componentshttps://www.cliffuk.co.uk/products/terminals/index.htm

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2021, 07:55:11 pm
content: You might take a small screwdriver and "spring" the leaves on the banana plugs out for a tighter fit.

author: richmit
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2021, 03:53:32 pm
content: If you don't need the binding post part, just jacks, then I have had good luck with these:https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/pomona-electronics/2269-0/736335I have some short binding posts that work with my probemaster cables. I got them a long time ago, but I *think* they were these (I might be mistaken on the part number):https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/keystone-electronics/4109/316092
T12 STM32 V2.1S standby temp - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bobbydazzler
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2021, 12:31:32 pm
content: My t12(2.1s hw 2.12 sw) lets you set the standby temp to room temperature which is what I set standby too because I find it still heats up fast enough when I pick up the iron.I'm just wondering is this ok for the tip with thermal shock? I'm thinking it may stress the tip in a similar way to using a wet sponge but I"m not sure going from room temp to 300c in a few seconds is as thermally shocking to the tip as a wet sponge?Another thing I've noticed between different t12 clone tips(though one did come in genuine looking "Hakko" packing with a made in Japan sticker on it) is that one of the tips could pull 90w from the wall compared to the possibly genuine Hakko t12 tip pulling only 80w.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2021, 12:49:33 pm
content: That's just slightly differences in the heater resistance."Ambient temperature" is actually completely off, or should be.The sensor cannot output any lower than room temperature.Are you really worring about thermal shock and $2 iron tips?

author: bobbydazzler
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2021, 01:32:34 pm
content: Quote from: DavidAlfa on August 03, 2021, 12:49:33 pmWhen you put it like that then no.
Most common & new soldering iron tips? Compatibility - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: triedgetech
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 05, 2021, 03:40:12 am
content: Okay, so I want a newer model iron soldering station (with hot air gun), but first I want to know what kind of soldering tips are out there right now.Like Weller's have their own standard, right? Only their soldering tips are compatible with Weller stations, correct?What about Hakko? That seems to be popular, are their soldering tips compatible with other stations'? What's the most common soldering iron tip that's unlikely to be replaced by newer version in the next 10 years?

author: bobbydazzler
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2021, 12:34:50 pm
content: T12 tips are pretty popular for Hakko irons and the many clones, I have a ksger soldering station that uses t12 tips. You definitely want an iron that uses tips where the heater is in the actual tip and not in the iron like the t12.
JBC470 High power soldering station controller board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: FransW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2021, 03:51:40 pm
content: From China:Stumbled on this,JBC470 High power soldering station, 48V input voltage, close to 300W powerAnyone seen it, tested it and/or used it?Made me curious, could be a simple extension of a Unisolder multi-version.Frans
Model of connector for T32 Tips on HAKKO FX100 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Free_WiFi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2021, 05:16:07 pm
content: I got from ebay some Hakko FX100's induction (13.56Mhz) tips and i'm a little bit wondering about the type of connector used to plug the tips inside the handle.Do someone know which kind of brand and type of coax connector is used inside the handle for the HAKKO FX 100 induction soldering station ?For example,i knows that's for metcal tips (STTC) is used the micro smb from "Amphenol"Here you got the picture for Metcal tip connectorhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/metcal-sttc-soldering-cartridgetip-teardown/?action=dlattach;attach=18736;image

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2021, 09:46:21 pm
content: Photo?Are you planning something?

author: Free_WiFi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2021, 03:14:20 pm
content: Hi & Sorry for my misstyping.I dind't got my self hakko 100's induction tips from ebay i meant that i saw them,so sorry again for my mistake.By the way i'm interested in the power supply plug of these tip's,because in the future i'm willing to buy the entire Hakko FX100 induction soldering set.The reason i'm asking about the model of the plug on these tips is,because i wish to make my own custom handle for this Hakko's IH tips.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2021, 11:43:42 pm
content: Did you make the handle yet?Here are the dimensions of the H70-BC1 thermaltronics, equivalent to hakko T31-02BC1http://www.thermaltronics.com/datasheet/H70-BC1The shaft size is the same as Metcal, but due to the additional collar it wouldn't fit into a normal Metcal handle. You'd have to bore out the handle and have some adapter section inside.The connector seems to almost mate with a metcal tip, so might be the same, just that they've flipped genders.