hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Matrix Mini PC_TBS 2910  vs Raspberry Pi for XBMC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: raymond2000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2014, 11:35:01 am
content: hi everyonecame across this product on the net (Matrix Mini PC_TBS 2910), i wonder if anyone from the forum had a chance to try it or had a look at it,was looking for Raspberry Pi for XBMC , but this product seem to do a similar job for (HTPC, media center project)is it any good for performance compared to the PI , i know the PI been around and have a good support...Thank youdetails:matrix MiNi PC TBS 2910http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=matrix+min+pc&_from=R40|R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xtbs+2910&_nkw=tbs+2910&_sacat=0] eBay link:Matrix PCeBay link: Raspberry Pi for XBMC

author: The1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2014, 11:48:54 am
content: im currently using the PI 512mb version with mediatomb on RASPBIAN with a USB to SATA adapter and 1TB 2.5" drive, powered off a USB port on a power board, 2amp socket, have ethernet plugged in and it has no issues streaming 1080p to my TV. I SSH into the box to admin it over lan. SMB Share setup to the exteral drive to upload data from my pc's.

author: jinzo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2014, 11:57:08 am
content: The Matrix TBS is way more powerful in terms of raw power. The i.MX6 quad core with 2GB of ram will make laps around RPi (but to be fair, it's more expensive too).Also the Freescale i.MX6 has quite good linux/open source support (probably the best in current SoC market) and the company behind Matrix TBS is quite well known in the tuner/receiver business (so I guess they know what they're doing).So I would go with the TBS even with the price (I am/was actually looking around for boards like that, and the TBS with miniPCIe and their tuners looks like a great match).

author: The1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2014, 12:19:47 pm
content: to be honest i bought my PI way back when they came out. If i was to do a home theatre pc now i would buy a NUC, cheap and all the power of a home pc.
Tenma 21-11420  ,  Atten 8786D , 8586D , ????ect.    2 in 1 rework station. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: -N-
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 31, 2014, 01:29:13 am
content: 1 of my Reworks Died So,I purchased this from McMelectronics here in the U.S. its on clearance and with promo codes and such it gets down to $42.00 Sweeet.I wont bother adding lengthy jargon it is what it is and im pretty happy with it.This is the 110v model and has a metal heating element.Doesn't have a pref board type pcb solike some.These are the Chips on mine for Ref:L7805 cvBTA112-600TiP122BT137 -600ELM358 p/n16f9162n3904-331 (4 of these)MOC 3041-324Q (2 of these)I Hope the pics help others for component Id in case something cooks.**Note the earth wires Have been fixed up just not in the pics**Enjoy

author: nixfu
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 02, 2014, 05:24:25 pm
content: MCM Clearance Price -15% (promocode AFC909) = $42.49SuperSaver (lowest option) Shipping: $13.99TOTAL: $56.48Not a bad price. This gets you pretty much the two-in-one (Solder + Hot Air Rework) for the same price as the stand alone Hot Air (857D+) goes for. I have been planning on getting one of the 857D's so this deal gets me the Hot Air, plus a second soldering iron on the bench.

author: -N-
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 03, 2014, 03:12:03 pm
content: They had 5.99 shipping on labor day Monday google up promo codes they let you add as many as you like and then "they " select the highest % one.What surprised me was the weight of these little stations.The soldering iron works just fine in my opinion... melts solder.This just adds a 3rd solder iron on my bench all I was looking for was another hot air since my pump style one exploded (again) there's pics in forum, No more pump styled for me......( unless its Crazy cheap,Cant resist a bargain )When you get yours, id suggest you redo the earthing its pretty bad. (I redid mine with crap I had laying around used better wire actual spade connectors, eyelits. etc, used the base of the transformer and a little hole that was unused in front of the transformer toward the faceplate) and changed the airflow knob I hate those it comes with.Both features of it, solder / air work great.And spare parts can be found on ebay for cheap.I hope you like it.

author: nixfu
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 07, 2014, 06:15:42 pm
content: Does anyone know how to switch these to read in C instead of F? I purchased the above one from MCM and its in F, ug.Even as a yank, having them in F just seems silly to me when all the solder flow datasheets are in C.
Question about pcie 3 and single 16x or dual 8x/8x - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: asgard20032
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2014, 11:18:38 pm
content: Hi, im about to buy my next motherboard. But I intend to use 2 pcie 3 slot : One for graphic card and another for whatever, but not graphic.Most of the 1150 socket has two pcie slot, and when single, it run at 16x and when dual, it run at 8x/8x. Most of the time, when i search for what im about to ask, i found result about sli and crossfire, because people put two graphic card. What I want to know, is there would be possible to run at 16x/4x, NOT sli or crossfire. For example, putting a graphic card in first slot, and for example, a 4x raid card/pcie 4x to m.2 or whatever...My intention would be probably to buy a sabertooth z97 and put a video card in first pcie 3 and put a pcie 3 to m.2 (4x) in the second slot to compensate the lack of m.2

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2014, 11:51:21 pm
content: If you plug anything in the second slot, the motherboard will switch automatically to x8 + x8. It's due to a limitation of the number of pci express lanes coming from the cpu.Whether you can actually connect anything different than a video card, it depends on the bios and possibly other things. Those x16 lanes come straight from the cpu while the other lanes used in other slots on the motherboard come from cpu or chipset.You can plug a x1 or x4 card into a x8 or a x16 slot, the slot is designed in such a way that smaller slot cards can work in higher slot cards (x1 works in x4, x4 works in x8 or x16 and so on)Afaik there's not many things that are pci express 3.0 besides video cards and even then, it may be the case that only video cards will run at 3.0 speeds.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2014, 12:56:04 pm
content: Quote from: mariush on September 01, 2014, 11:51:21 pmThis is definitely a problem with some motherboards; they may not enumerate anything except a video card the x16 and x8 PCIe slots intended for video cards.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 04, 2014, 04:45:17 am
content: On some boards the reverse is also true. You can install higher speed cards into slower speed slots. However the card will only run as fast as the slot. You can identify these as the slot will have an "open ended" cut-out towards the front of the case so that the excess card just hangs off the back of the slot.For example I'm running a x16 graphics card in a x8 PCI Express slot on a Supermicro X8SIL-F motherboard and it runs quite fine (albeit I'm not getting the maximum performance out of the card).The usual caveat applies: Not all cards or boards will support it.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2014, 10:43:57 am
content: Quote from: n45048 on September 04, 2014, 04:45:17 amIt is not uncommon for narrow PCIe slots to support using wider cards even if the connector mechanically prevents it.
What solder pen to use with Crystal 400? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ehsmeng
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2014, 12:01:45 pm
content: Hi,I have googled but became non the wiser.Please advice a flux pen that will play nicely with Multicore solder with flux Crystal 400. Bonus points of you explain how you deduced thisThanks,Marcus

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2014, 01:46:33 pm
content: If you read the datasheet for Crystal 400, you'll discover it contains no-clean flux.Mix like with like, and you'll avoid any headaches (no compatibility issues this way; although you can usually mix no-clean with rosin, but never water soluble).

author: ehsmeng
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2014, 07:04:22 pm
content: Super! I orderedhttp://www.distrelec.ch/en/No-Clean-flux-dispensing-pen-9-0-g---CW8100/p/11078068I naively thought it was it it's water soluble or not that was the thing to look for.
Drawer carousel/turntable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DaveW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2014, 05:18:45 pm
content: I ran into the normal issue with trying to store far too many components in a home lab. After accumulating 8 cabinets and filling them, I decided to build a rotary turntable to hold another 8.The key was picking up a bearing suitable for the job-managed to find a nice one from ebay for £15, 18" diameter suited the cabinets perfectly. Had a quick test to make sure it'd stand up to the weight, and then a quick mod toextend the holes right through the bearing-this doesn't affect the operation at all on the bearings I had.Next up was something to hold the drawers together. I was originally going to use some plywood with some cheap aluminium angle round the edges to provide a lip, in the end a mate bent some stainless steel sheet up. If youcan get it done this way, would highly recommend it, looks really great.After that just used a few bits of plywood to make reinforcements for the top and bottom as well as a base, some assembly and it's all built. I was a bit worried about stability with 4 layers initially, but in use it's absolutely fine.I've attached a picture of the bearing and some of the (far too few) in progress pics I took,

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2014, 07:57:14 pm
content: Looks quite nice. Nice and solid build there.
Memorex MDW1061-WLS photo frame/AUO A101VW01 Teardown (help needed) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dwegiel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 28, 2014, 10:44:30 pm
content: Hello all, my first post here.Came upon this photo frame at Goodwill for a nice price, picked it up to experiment with and hopefully set up as a display for my Raspberry Pi. Of course, being a beginner with circuitry, I'm not able to get a good understanding of the LCD to Controller Board to Processing Unit connection.I have found the following site for reference:http://transistor2.sohnen.com/service_manuals_index_by_category.htmlThis is the PDF of particular interest:http://transistor2.sohnen.com/Service%20Manuals/MDF1061%20&%20MDF1062%20(Suffix%20C)%20-AUO%20PANEL/MDF1061-AUO_1009_SCH_BLOCK.pdfI see many references to CVBS (as composite video) but it seems to only be for output to external TV not to the display... Most of interest is the AT76c120B (which i can't locate on the board) which seems to process CVBS into usable signal for the display controller (or some other way around).Here are the pictures:http://imgur.com/a/8bvAfLet me know what can be done with this, thanks again technology wizards!
JBC cartridges for SMT ICs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2014, 07:36:12 am
content: Does anyone have experience with the below two JBC soldering cartridges, the top one for QFP, the other one for PLCC. Are they any useful?And yes I know I can do it with a regular soldering iron or with (...your other favorite tool...) , so pls only post if you used these.

author: electronic_eel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2014, 01:59:28 pm
content: I have tried the one for QFP and didn't like it, it was too thick. I prefer the C245067 one for QFP, you have very good control where you touch and where not so it works well even if big components are near.My other option is the C245945 and laying a thin solder core over the pins.

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2014, 01:36:07 am
content: Thank you electronic_eel for the useful info. I'll probably get a minispoon.
youyue vs atten - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Leonelf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2014, 05:16:52 pm
content: After watching the review of the atten rework hot air gun, i searched for it on ebay. I found yet another clone of the thing, made by "youyue". Which is also 10 bucks cheaper than the atten (xd).Does anyone have experience with the youyue compared to the atten? I found a teardown here which shows the same problem an atten had once (live mains connected to guns metal parts)...Greetings, Leon

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2014, 05:53:23 pm
content: Chinese brand names are pretty much arbitrary. You can get the same product under 10 different names. Check this for example, it is sold as both Youyue and Attend.http://www.aliexpress.com/item/original-electric-air-gun-lcd-hot-air-gun-atten-858d-hot-air-soldering-station-sets-free/1745943400.html

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2014, 05:58:06 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/youyue-858d-some-reverse-engineering-custom-firmware/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/youyue-858d-teardown/

author: Leonelf
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2014, 06:07:16 pm
content: thanks for the replies!I must have done *something* wrong with the forum search to not find those links ôOGonna order it soon-ish thenThanks again!

author: denelec
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2014, 12:38:53 am
content: I just bought an identical W.E.P. 858D for C$68.Seems to work well.
Where can I buy Durable, Good Quality USB connectors? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: salil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2014, 06:17:12 am
content: I feel like it's hit and miss depending on where I buy USB connectors, but for the most part they tend to be kind of weak except when I find them in certain overpriced commercial products. Even in some 3rd party commercially available USB chargers (many of which are USA companies), I've had ports become loose, pins getting bent, etc after less than a year of regular usage. I still have (and regularly make use of) an original Apple iPhone USB charger from 2007 and the USB port on it still provides a very solid connection.Where (or what brand?) can I reliably get durable USB connectors for regular usage like this in small quantities? Has anyone done an evaluation/comparison of different manufacturers' usb connectors? Right now I'm specifically looking for through-hole USB A female connectors. Any leads are greatly appreciated.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2014, 10:30:24 am
content: digikey, invert sort by price ?

author: salil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2014, 01:40:28 pm
content: How do you determine the durability of the different model connectors on Digikey?I don't need heavy duty water sealed connectors or anything like that, just reasonably solid ones that aren't ultra weak.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2014, 02:05:36 pm
content: Quote from: salil on August 19, 2014, 06:17:12 amWhat brands didn't work for you?

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2014, 08:14:23 pm
content: My experience, that 90% of the job is the enclosure design. Some manufacturers, like TE conn. have industrial grade USB connectors (haha, what a joke). Other than that TH verson seems to be more durable.

author: pinkman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2014, 03:15:06 pm
content: I assume you're looking for standard A connectors.Most USB connectors have a durability rating, which gives you an idea of how many connection cycles the connector can withstand before the electrical/mechanical specs fall out of datasheet parameters.You are looking for a connector rated for 10,000 cycles or more. You should also shy away from the connectors which have surface mount mounting tabs - Use only the thru hole versions as you will pull these SMD tabs off sooner or later if you're hard on the connector.
EXTECH CT70 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Scott in Michigan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2014, 04:48:29 pm
content: We live in an old house, circa 1874, and it seemed prudent to ring out the REA-era wiring that was impractical to upgrade when we purchased it. The knob and tube in the attic is gone, but I suspect some cotton covered wiring still lurks in a few of the walls. So I've been methodically testing outlets and switches circuits and ceiling lamps with an Extech CT70 AC circuit load tester.Perhaps the folks on this board would like to take a peek inside it? Photo attached.It's labeled CAT II 300V. Thanks to this board I'm more aware of CAT rating implications, and wonder if the line rated components are adequately encapsulated from the outside world. (Comments appreciated).There is another higher model and I suppose the unoccupied portions of the circuit board are for that version.A few of the axial lead resistors seem to have been placed hurriedly. (The fuse labeled F2 though has to be bent inward to fit inside the case form factor.)I thought the blob of solder from the case of crystal X11 to the anode of diode D6 was interesting.Note the spelling of 'industrial' just south of that crystal.I'm sure the more trained eyes on this board will notice things I have missed.Best Regards,ScottNM8Rp.s. Uploading the photo was interesting. The board won't accept high resolution photos it appears, so I rendered a reduced resolution version. If anyone wants the high resolution file please contact me directly.
FLIR E4 competition - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Scott in Michigan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2014, 06:38:41 pm
content: Gentlemen,In the < $1K (USD) range, is the FLIR E4 the hands down choice, or have offshore manufacturers produced a product worth considering?I did practice due diligence, and reviewed board archives about this unit, finding nothing. Of course that comprises about 380 pages...Regards and thanks,ScottNM8R

author: Scott in Michigan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2014, 01:09:11 pm
content: It appear no answer, is the answer.FLIR E4 it is.ScottNM8R

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2014, 01:33:13 pm
content: At that resolution class , therm-app is also a possible contender if a phone based solution is and option, but no MSX.There are still a few old 1.2x firmware E4's out there if you look hard.

author: Scott in Michigan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2014, 03:28:18 pm
content: Mike,Thanks for the reply.BTW, I appreciate your videos. I've learned a lot from them.Scott
JBC PA120a tweezer hand piece with PA8110 stand - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tridentsx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2014, 07:48:15 am
content: Would the newer JBC PA120-A tweezer hand piece work with the older PA8110 stand ?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2014, 05:30:36 pm
content: Yes.

author: tridentsx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2014, 06:25:22 pm
content: Thanks, its not listed as compatible in the documentation, but I suspected that they should work together.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2014, 10:11:40 pm
content: Quote from: tridentsx on August 12, 2014, 06:25:22 pmOnly recall ever seeing current production P/N's as to what works with what at any given time, never any mention of previous P/N's working with more recent production P/N's (where relevant of course).
Crimping Tools Paladin 1300 or 8000 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Bryan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2014, 11:38:05 am
content: All:Looking around for a crimper for some RF connections. Got to thinking it might be better to purchase one of the above and purchase the appropriate dies when needed. Anybody have any comments on the Paladin series of crimper frames. Are they decent for general use?. Any main advantages of the 8000 vs the 1300 series.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2014, 03:31:15 pm
content: The Paladin catalog implies that the 8000 is tougher but I am not sure there is any practical difference between the two. I have a Paladin CrimpALL (8000) with 2653 die set (Common 2-piece and 3-piece SMA/SMB/BNC/TNC & Mini-UHF) and it works great. The design and construction is so heavy that I would certainly recommend it for crimping and self defense applications during the zombie apocalypse.I have a Greenlee (same company) 45553 for crimping modular plugs that is excellent as well.

author: Bryan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2014, 11:34:13 am
content: Thanks Dave The Paladin aka Greenlee seems like a good product. I think the 8000 is just newer with a nicer handle and feel. May be a plus for someone who uses it every day, but thinking the 1300 series should be fine.Cheers
Strange LEDs from ebay - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2014, 10:45:15 am
content: I have bought dozens of LEDs from ebay and am finding a problem. Take the Green LEDs for example. They are all diffuse but seem to be of two types. One type has a forward voltage drop of 1.8V (approximately) and requires around 10mA to light up fully. The other type is the most weird one, has a forward voltage drop of 2.3V and requires maybe 0.5mA to light up extremely bright. There is no visual identification that I have noticed, so the only way to sort them is to test them. Have you seen this before and are these "super LEDs" since they require so little current to produce such a strong output? I mean even testing them with the multimeter achieves full brightness.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2014, 11:57:27 am
content: They are different because they use different semiconductor materials. The higher voltage and brightness ones use silicon carbide or gallium nitride.

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2014, 12:06:22 pm
content: Thanks. Outside of the obvious efficiency (0.5mA vs 10mA) are there any other determining factors you are aware of?

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2014, 03:56:07 pm
content: Viewing angle, wavelength, and efficiency at different current levels can all be different.

author: Precipice
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2014, 04:48:49 pm
content: Also the matching of all those parameters from LED to LED can vary. If you want a bunch of LEDs to light up at the same brightness in an array, that's important.Also, and importantly, which end of the package the LED is at, and sometimes the orientation mark / flat on the package will vary from type to type. Good times!

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2014, 05:57:42 pm
content: Ah yes I thought I was going mad with those yellow LEDs I got on ebay! Long lead does not always mean anode...
Amazing antique store find! But... what is it?? :o - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Aliasmk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 07, 2014, 02:07:11 pm
content: Hi all! I had an account here a while back but I for some reason lost access... anyways I was at an Antique shop recently and picked this baby up (see attachment). Its an electronic clock, with Nixie tube digits, with a European mains plug. The writing on it is German.I bought it because it looked cool, but like I said, I have no idea of the details behind it or when its from. It puzzles me because it looks like a part of a mainframe with those handles on either side (it also looks like it would slide into somewhere). There is also a plug on the bottom right of the front panel labeled "Netz" which translates to network.So yeah, any ideas about the history of this thing? Thanks!

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2014, 02:23:15 pm
content: Well yeah,netz means mains so that is the mains power.In your last picture it gives everything away: electronic clock (uhr) with hours (stunden).Probably it is 50Hz mains synchronized. And with the buttons you can adjust the hours, minutes and seconds.So you have a fancy clock there, wonder if you can get it to work again?

author: Aliasmk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 07, 2014, 02:58:31 pm
content: I figured it was a clock, I'm wondering when it's from, mostly. There aren't any other markings on it.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2014, 10:10:03 pm
content: When, like in what year it was made?Are there any elco,s in it or pcb markings? Do you have some detailed fotos of the inner pcbs, components?

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2014, 10:37:50 pm
content: Quote from: Kjelt on August 07, 2014, 10:10:03 pmI'd guess 60s, early 70s.Germany/Austria.May not be a commercial product unless you can see some brand markings.Quite possibly purpose built in some lab or facility that needed a time reference - or a keen hacker / hobbyist of the era making something for his ham shack!If the vertical mounted cards are 'similar' in layout - they are probably digit drivers / decoder/counters... an oddball card may be timebase and/or the power supply.Probably not too hard to resurrect if the cards and backplane are in place and not too corroded damaged. Look at the caps closely & replace if the slightest doubt.Unplug ALL the connected cards / etc - and bring the power supply up with a Variac or isolation transformer - it could well pop a household fuse. Keep your fingers out and diagnose the safety part FIRST !Good luck - it looks like fun.
Philips 12.5W globes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Kartman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2014, 03:47:06 am
content: Bunnings have Philips 12.5W globe replacement LED bulbs for $16.99. They are rated at 1055lumens and supposedly equivalent to a 75W incandescent. So i decided to try one. I got a cool white one that really wasn't too nice on the eye for general use, so i got some warm white ones - much nicer. So what to do with this cool white one? I must be Dave's long lost twin as very little passes me by without me knowing whats inside! So i opened it. Basically you have to destroy one to do it, so goodbye $16.99 in the name of science. There are 21 leds on a aluminium backed pcb attached to what could be called a tin lid (actually pressed aluminium) pressed into a goblet shaped aluminium pressing that forms the bulk of the bulb. They were serious about heatsinking! Lifting the lid, we have a small single sided pcb with through hole and smt components. All transistors and no ics! It looks like a constant current buck converter that supplies (at a guess)60-70V for the led string. There's a couple of electros that probably determine the actual life of the unit. Overall, the construction of the electronics is first class. I'll post some pix and a schematic when i've completed the drawing.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2014, 04:00:48 am
content: Seem to recall there are some Philips ones that are extremely well engineered/made. Even the ones where the phosphors are huge (and replaceable).Can't wait for pics.Tim

author: Carrington
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2014, 07:12:50 pm
content: The nex time you can use an dual/quad light adaptor, and combine both, the cool white with the warm white.

author: Kartman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2014, 10:19:43 am
content: Here's a picture:
FUNcube Dongle Pro+ deliveries - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 31, 2014, 06:19:22 pm
content: Evenin' (o;Do other people have also ordered this USB dongle to experiment with and use it as a radio receiver or spectrum analyzer?Ordered one a week ago as the website says on stock...but so far no progress and no feedback via email at all....Should I be concerned?

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 04, 2014, 09:02:01 am
content: Ah..finally arrived this morning....and works out of the box on OSX 10.9.x with DSP Radio software...Wasn't aware that the sound quality of FM modulation coming from my Fluke 6060A/AN was that good ;-)Just Linux support seems be lagging behind OSX and Windows...but with my MacBook Pro it makes a fabulous mobile scanner (o;

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 05, 2014, 09:14:14 am
content: I ordered one mid-July, took about a week to get to Australia, not bad from the uk, even with windows, I had a few set up issues but I am not good with drivers etc

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 05, 2014, 09:26:57 am
content: Well..at least with Windows you have more software opportunities ;-)With OSX it is okay...and with Linux the low-level support seems to be sort of lacking...not quite usable atm...Can't wait for the cheap DVB-T adapters from China....
Petzl MYO RXP, power consumption and battery box - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2014, 01:10:18 am
content: Just some quick measurements to look at the standby and operating consumption of this headlamp, among some comments on it generally. It has programmable sequencing of the power button which retains its settings without the batteries installed, but uses a soft rubber button without any locking mechanism as when the head is in the closed position it is still possible to press it and turn the headlamp on.The battery compartment is plastic with a soft rubber slip on cover and gets an IPx4 protection rating. Sadly they have not added any polarisation protection on the battery slots which is a bit dangerous since this lamp specifically supports lithium batteries as mentioned in the instructions, all previous lamps I have used from this manufacturer had plastic shrouds around the positive terminals to ensure correct polarity (and allow loading in the dark for instance).An Agilent 34461A bench multimeter was added inline with the batteries using some small segments of copper tape with the backing paper still on.Standby consumption is a base of 7.5uA, waking regularly enough to alias the trend plot of the multimeter even when running at 0.02PLC. Maths reported a peak of 110uA and a mean of 8.2uA which should be below the self discharge of any sensible battery.Running with the supplied batteries of 4.72V at the lowest regulated intensity setting the current draw was 70mA, and at the highest setting (described as unregulated in the instructions) it consumed 850mA. Knowing all this it would be a good candidate for the lower cost energizer EA91 batteries, or even just normal E91/EN91 alkaline although anything but the lowest power settings would induce extra loss from their internal resistance.
Hakko FX 888D replacement Iron - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ldnola
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 01, 2014, 08:18:48 pm
content: Hello All,This is my first post. If this is not the appropriate location for my post please let me know. I have a Hakko fx 888D station. Unfortunately, my cat chewed through the cord for the iron handle that came with the station. I am trying to replace the iron handle and wanted to know if the Iron handle for the Hakko 936 is compatible with the fx 888D? The handles for the 936 are much cheaper compared to the replacement for the 888D.Thank you for your timeLD

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2014, 09:03:16 pm
content: Unless the cat chewed through the handle too, all you need is the cord... I believe it's a 5-core silicone-insulated cable.
HP41CV calculator batteries - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Richard Head
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2014, 08:52:26 am
content: Does anyone know where I can get the unusual batteries used in the HP41CV calculator?

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2014, 09:55:29 am
content: From what i found on Google, it uses 4 "N" 1.5v batteries. They can be found at most battery suppliers.http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-x-LR1-1-5V-Alkaline-battery-E90-N-KN-MN9100-910A-New-/180652840213?pt=AU_Electronics_Batteries_Chargers&hash=item2a0fbf9515Regards

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2014, 10:07:44 am
content: FYI (if you don't already know of these sites)http://www.hp41.org/Intro.cfmhttp://http://stores.ebay.com.au/VINTAGE-CALCULATORS?_rdc=1http://www.hpmuseum.org

author: Richard Head
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 05:23:31 am
content: Thanks for the suggestions. I'll have to buy them online as I can't find them locally.RegardsDick

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 05:27:44 am
content: I found an HP41 in the recycle bin at the office last week. It was missing the battery holder/door. I'm considering getting a couple of LiPo cells to stick in there to replace the four N-cells. Do you think the circuit could tolerate the extra supply voltage?

author: FireBird
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 12:13:05 pm
content: While switched off, the circuitry is powered from the batteries minus one diode drop. When switched on, a little switch mode PS creates a stabilised 6V. I’m not sure if the regulation will work at all if the supply is already higher than the target voltage.

author: 1xrtt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2014, 11:13:48 pm
content: I ordered these a couple of days ago:http://www.ebay.com/itm/190570442032?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649I have a 28S and finding these batteries is also hard around here.
New HP smart watch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2014, 03:16:16 pm
content: After a long hiatus for HP, the company and their partners are releasing a smart watch compatible with Android and iOS:http://www.gq.com/style/blogs/the-gq-eye/2014/07/michael-bastian-joins-forces-with-gilt-for-smartwatch-launch.html
Wtf is up with the price of crimp tools??? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 03:26:00 am
content: A few months ago I bought an insulated terminal crimp tool from Harbor Freight. With probably less than 50 uses, the ratcheting sprocket/teeth have sheared off. Perhaps I was using it incorrectly but I don't think so.On the production line at work, we use a TE Connectivity part no. 59824 tool. I think they've had it a while so I guess it's holding up well. So I went home and looked it up and holy hell it's $200+!! I looked up some other tools from Molex and Amphenol and they are equally or more expensive.So it's either I buy the shitty Harbor Frieght or its many clones that are all over the internet...or I drop $200+ on a crimper that probably won't get all that much use...what gives? Why are they so expensive?

author: gxti
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 04:20:26 am
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/why-on-earth-is-this-crimping-tool-$106/30/

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 04:32:07 am
content: Second thread in a row from me with answers that were almost in plain sight or recently answered. Open your eyes dummy! Thanks.
PCB Flip Assembly Jigs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bob274
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 05:54:45 am
content: Hi there! Searched turned up nothing useful...Anybody know where to get a decent PCB flip jig? I am not looking for a Panavise, but a holder for many small PCBs that can flip around to solder. Basically what I want exactly is a Jensen/Idealtek PCSA-2. But most places require an order of 3 of those (which would run over $500!), or sell them individually for around $400. Neither seems like a good deal, just bad and worse! The PCSA-1 is smaller than I'd like.Anybody know of a suitable fixture, or where to buy the PCSA-2? Been searching for a decent one for months!!

author: kripton2035
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 06:22:41 am
content: farnell/element14 sells it for £160 in europe. but it seems not sold in the states . strange.

author: bob274
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 06:26:38 am
content: Quote from: kripton2035 on July 29, 2014, 06:22:41 amYes... Newark will let you order from the UK stock for about $400 after shipping.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 07:13:13 am
content: Here is one for $257.http://www.techni-tool.com/758SO050

author: bob274
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 07:25:25 am
content: Quote from: zapta on July 29, 2014, 07:13:13 amThat's the smaller PCSA-1 equivalent and is 11x11". I want the one that's 11x20". They have the other size for $282. Still is a bit much.

author: bob274
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 07:38:48 am
content: I don't believe it. Finally found one for $220, which is a lot more reasonable than the other options:http://www.all-spec.com/products/Tools%7CGeneral_Hand_Tools%7CTOL-4C/382-001.html

author: Ribster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 08:19:00 am
content: That's a lot of money for something to 'just' flip your pcb's IMO

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 08:25:16 am
content: Well, it doesn't just flip the boards. It holds the components in place while you solder them.

author: Ribster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 08:57:20 am
content: Quote from: David_AVD on July 29, 2014, 08:25:16 amI know. But i still think it's a lot of money. If it's all ESD-safe, then i can understand the price..Maybe i'm still getting used to the big money going into all these things..
Any xCORE users here? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2014, 09:35:50 pm
content: Received a small xCORE startkit to play with...and it seems to be a nice board...Especially for the low price and getting parallel processing with 8 cores on a small board....So I'm wondering what else it can do when using USB/Ethernet and audio......Tomorrow I should receive the USB development kit with additional ethernet and audio slice boards....A big plus is the fact that their Eclipse based IDE (though I never liked Eclipse since I had ti use BIRT) runs on OSX, Windows and Linux...Final question...are there other xCORE users here?How's your experience with their chips and especially performance?
Programmable USB Keypad for around $100? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 07:42:14 am
content: I'm looking to buy a programmable keypad to speed up my work in CAD systems. My requirements are:-about 40-50 keys-USB-compatible with Win 8.1-exchangable key graphics (eg. a transparent plastic cover under which you can put a slip of paper with a symbol)-obtainable in EU for around $100 / €75-multi character macros (eg. one key for 'TGM' (polygon manager) in Altium)Most keyboards of that type are intended for POS usage, so they are very primitive (eg. PS/2 connection, only supported up to winXP, no multi-character macro capability etc). I know I could build that myself, but I don't have time for screwing around.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 08:37:41 am
content: Not sure how this will work since it's intended for gaming, cronusmax allows you to program almost any device to map it to anything you want. They also have an API of sorts but I never used it and only know one person that has it and he uses it to play console games. But maybe you can use it to put a second keyboard and map each key.http://controllermax.com/Other than that, there are plenty of keyboards that allow you to create macros, but not with 40-50 keys.

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 05:53:11 pm
content: Sounds like you want something like the X-Keys stuff, but it's not exactly within your budget:http://xkeys.com/XkeysKeyboards/index.phpThere area also some gaming accessories that would certainly do everything you want, although I haven't seen any with 60 keys and you'd have to stick your own legends on.http://www.amazon.com/WolfKing-DK2388UBK-Warrior-Gaming-Keypad/dp/B000IMZHL2http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=025PHCC6HXFHN151NW56I've actually been looking for something similar, but with more like 30 keys--I really just want a 10-key numpad, arrows, tab, del, backspace, home, end, and enter and a couple others in a left-hand friendly layout. I'm half seriously considering rolling my own since even if I wanted to drop $200 on something like the XKeys there doesn't seem to be anything with a suitable key count for my purposes.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 06:15:51 pm
content: I looked more into the cronusmax and I guess it's only for controller emulation via other usb devices.But I found this for $190http://www.fentek-ind.com/xks16.htm

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2014, 09:40:43 am
content: It doesn't have exchangeable key labels and it only has 20 keys, but they can be switched between 8 different key maps.Other than that, it should work for you:http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-keyboards-keypads/razer-orbweaver
Which plastic drawer storage cabinet do you recommend? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: geratheg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2014, 04:08:53 am
content: Which storage container do you use?I saw a Stack-On brand 60 drawer storage container for about $17 on Kmart.com with free shipping.http://www.kmart.com/stack-on-60-drawer-storage-cabinet/p-005W045098511512PI also saw Akro Mils 64 drawer storage container for about $25 on ebay:http://www.ebay.com/itm/AKRO-MILS-10164-Plastic-Frame-64-Drawer-Storage-Cabinet-/331253518072?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d203f8ef8Which one is better? Anyone have experience with either or both?Any other affordable recommendations besides these?

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2014, 01:18:26 pm
content: I prefer the old style Akro Mills drawers which are about 2.75 inches wide because small leaded parts like 1/4 watt resistors and diodes can fit sideways in them so each drawer can hold 2 or 3 different types depending on which dividers are installed.
What's a good carbon filter for fume extraction? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: geratheg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2014, 02:12:41 am
content: I see this filter:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holmes-Bionaire-GE-replacement-Carbon-Filter-HAPF60-HAPF60PDQ-U-A1260C-/200970897576?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item2ecacc88a8I also see this filter:http://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Filter-Activated-Xytronic-Absorber/dp/B005C5HUI8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_topThe latter says it's activated carbon, while the former says it's a pre-filter. The filters look similar to me, I'm confused.Are they the same filter and would both of them work? Are they both pre-filters with activated carbon?What trapping efficiency can I expected from a pre-filter?I'm building a fume extractor using a 12V 120mm PC fan, and could not decide which filters actually work and are used.
Group buy on Hakko FX-951 soldering station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: motocoder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2014, 02:08:46 am
content: One of the other members here started a group buy on Massdrop for a medium to high-end soldering station. Right now the Hakko FX-951 is winning the poll. However, we're still about 67 votes short of the number needed to initiate the buy.If you are at all interested in a Hakko FX-951 soldering station, please head on over to Massdrop and check it out. You will need to sign up to see the group buy or to vote for a product.http://www.massdrop.com/vote/low-to-midrange-professional-soldering-stations

author: TheBorg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2014, 03:50:16 am
content: Interesting site... great concept.

author: tjb1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2014, 12:36:44 pm
content: Quote from: mojo-chan on July 18, 2014, 10:30:18 amYou have to log in.

author: nowlan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2014, 12:57:20 pm
content: Pretty sure massdrop is us, so suspect 110v.

author: Kevin.D
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2014, 01:08:03 pm
content: Nice idea for a website ,this site might do well .Isn't this what large retailers like supermarkets do anyway for most goods . Getting price reductions from suppliers by buying large quantities and then offering the reduced prices to customers. When there are no large bulk buy retailers for certain things , it might do well for those goods though .

author: motocoder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2014, 02:15:48 pm
content: Yes, the site is a good idea, and seems to be run well. It's really not that hard to put together a mass buy for all but the most obscure of items. OTOH, we seem to be having some difficulty with this Hakko group buy...

author: motocoder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2014, 02:22:02 pm
content: Quote from: nowlan on July 18, 2014, 12:57:20 pmHere's the other thread. There is some discussion there about Massdrop supporting per-buyer customization, and international shipping, possibly allowing accommodation for buyers outside the US.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/crowd-funded-projects/possible-discounts-on-soldering-stations/
Cheap 9-channel radio teardown. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ResR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2014, 12:41:25 pm
content: http://www.4shared.com/folder/LiMjaRCz/Radio.htmlHey. I got this small 2 AA battery powered 9 channel radio from a small shop in Pärnu and disassembled it carefully to take a look inside. It cost only mere 6,50 euros and it came with a pair of batteries (exp. date in 2016). All through-hole parts, string mechanism for tuning. One of the surprise (or anticipated fact) was for me that the DX-Local switch is a fake. There is no switch contacts for that violet gang. There is two IC's, one is a TDA2822 speaker amplifier that does power the 0,5W speaker quite loud, other is a TA2033 (DIP-16) chip that controls everything. Build quality is well down to the price, but there is a second mold plastic for the electronics that is screwed into the housing. Sound quality is not bad, the tiny 0,5W 8 Ohm paper cone speaker sound relatively good, there is no case rattle when it's turned up loud, the case feels also quite sturdy for such a low price, but the plastic feels brittle, what i don't like is that the power switch is integrated to volume potentiometer.