hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Goodwe solar inverter - charging problems. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Drirr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2025, 08:39:21 am
content: Hi,A year ago, I installed a 4.3 kWp solar power plant along with a 10 kW GoodWe GW10K-ET inverter.A few months ago, I also added a battery, but I started noticing some strange behavior. When the solar inverter begins charging the battery, the charging power randomly drops—it simply stops charging for about 30 minutes.At first, I thought shadows might be causing the issue, but the timing of these charging drops is completely random. Then, I considered the possibility of overheating, either in the battery or the inverter. However, the issue also occurs on cloudy days when the power output is low.There is no error in Goodwe log.Please see attached images.Do you have any idea what might be causing this?Blue line is power from solar,Green - State of chargeViolet - battaery charging powerYellow - house consumptionThanks a lot!
Part number for AC Type 2 EV Charger terminals - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lovemb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2025, 12:39:51 pm
content: Hi, I'm trying to repair a charger cable that a dog chewed on.Basically I need to cut it a bit shorter and re-terminate the cable, I want new terminals but don't know the part number.Can someone help?Also heard I might need a hydraulic crimper, but maybe not for these in particular.Regards

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2025, 07:08:14 am
content: G'day lovemb,Maybe you could reuse the existing.How thick is the metal around the crimp?If you cut of the wire, you may be able to expand the crimp with a series of Pick tools etc.

author: lovemb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2025, 11:33:12 am
content: Quote from: Poroit on February 18, 2025, 07:08:14 amHi, it's not very thick, I just wanted new terminals to do this repair the right way.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2025, 11:46:04 am
content: the terminals will likely be specific to the make of the connector, so need to identify that first, but terminals may not be easy to get in small qtys.
Whatever Happened to personal rapid transit pods? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jonovid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2025, 01:58:22 am
content: is there a case or need for Lift / elevator that moves people and things horizontally between buildings quickly.vehicle is a 4 or 8 person pod, regardless of whether this run's on rubber wheels or railway track.pod has door opening width for wheelchairs.this is driverless on demand transportation with push buttons or touch screen for designation.Dhabi Driverless Pods 2011London Heathrow Driverless Pods

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2025, 02:50:28 am
content: they need to put that in alien isolation 2 lmfaobut what is it supposed to be. its like a train but its not, it uses rubber tires and its less efficent. so its cheaper to build then a tram, and looks hilarious.But if you need to build a special track for it, why not just go with a efficient tram?
Bypassing color temperature switch S4525S in a LED driver with DP9511B chip - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Victoria
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 21, 2024, 09:34:18 pm
content: Hi everyone,I have a driver for a nice lamp which controls two sets of LEDs inside; warm, and cold white. Which is great, just some engineer came up with an idea to drive these colors by the wall switch so that every time you turn on the light, another color shines up your live (cold, warm and both in a half power). Yup, you turn it off, and it turns on with another color.Apart from the fact I would shoot the person who came up with such idea to the outer space, the driver is relatively simple.It has a good partDP9511B, which is apparently a constant current LED driver chip sophisticated so much that its datasheet is confidential. And the evil part, which is the color temperature switching chipS4525S, whose existence in this universe arouses controversy and whose datasheet I could not find.Assuming the schematics of my driver is like the application example mentioned on an S4525S seller's linked website:What else might that evil S4525S chip do if the LEDs seem to have power supply ready to be delivered other than just switching between the LED stripes to feed?I mean, isn't the S4525S chip just a switch that connects over FETs its GND pin to D1 and D2 (in a notably stupid way)?And to get my beautiful lamp to shine natural white just suck it off the board, flip it over the rainbow and just connect the output of the current driver with stripes as below?Thank you!A few unimportant images attached..

author: irab88
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 04:52:09 pm
content: I created an account solely to comment on this post, because I was looking for the exact same thing. I had two lights, each with three of these chips. I yolo'd and bridged from pin 4 to pins 5/6 and 7/8, and plugged it in.It works.Both colors full-time.So it's as simple as adding a wire or two, no chip removal necessary.

author: Next
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 12, 2024, 01:52:33 pm
content: Same thing.L1一L2一(L1+L2)/2 As far I understand mean that power of both lines in 3-rd state are reduced?!I whant to try to add button switch between r3 and clk pin to manualy change mode.Any thoughts?

author: akeshma
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 08:13:19 pm
content: I have muti-color LED driver and it is not able to light the LED.It has also the same ic S4525S with the main ic S6613D.when check the output voltage on 100v capacitor it has 70V but no stable voltage on the D1 and D2 of the s4525SI try to replace s4525S but it is still not working
looking for an old bms app - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ME
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2025, 05:47:28 am
content: I used to have a Xiaoxiang jbd bms app, I had to reset my phone so lost the bms app, the jbd website only has newer verssions of the app, The app i need has a yellow elephant (older versian needed) not the later blue one, Has anyone a copy or a link too it?, Many thanks.
How to optimize inductor EE25 core, target leakage inductance <100nH - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Johnson CGW
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 07:54:01 am
content: In a recent customize inductor project, customer's requirement about EE25 core, target leakage inductance <100nH.We have below 3 options:1, Conventional Sandwich Winding(low cost)Leakage: 142nHIssue: Excessive interlayer capacitance causing ringing2,Interleaved Section WindingLeakage: 95nH ✓Key improvement: 0.15mm interlayer insulation3,Progressive Spiral Winding(high cost)Leakage: 68nH ✓✓Innovation: Dynamic wire diameter/spacing adjustmentDoes anyone have better solution?

author: mtwieg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2025, 03:54:25 pm
content: Can you explain what you mean by leakage inductance for an inductor (or is this a transformer)?What's the required inductance/SRF?

author: uer166
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2025, 11:55:01 pm
content: Quote from: mtwieg on February 28, 2025, 03:54:25 pmIt looks like a coupled inductor (flyback "transformer") from context, though OP should clarify

author: ahbushnell
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2025, 05:42:08 pm
content: Quote from: uer166 on February 28, 2025, 11:55:01 pmA coupled inductor is a transformer. Not sure why you would put that in quotes.

author: uer166
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2025, 07:36:22 pm
content: Quote from: ahbushnell on March 01, 2025, 05:42:08 pmThe distinction is important: a coupled inductor stores energy intentionally, while a transformer largely doesn't. A flyback transformer isn't a transformer in the normal definition. Not arguing semantics, rather explaining why I put it in quotes.

author: ahbushnell
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2025, 05:18:38 pm
content: Quote from: uer166 on March 01, 2025, 07:36:22 pmShow me your reference on this? They are both transformers. I have built resonant systems and tuned the magnetizing inductance in the transformer which stores energy on each cycle. I think calling it a coupled inductor is confusing.
J1772 Type 2 to BS1363 type G adapter for Ebike charging using car EV charger - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: djsb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2025, 06:05:10 pm
content: Is there such a thing as a J1772 type 2 to BS1363 type G adapter (standard 3 pin UK plug but female socket not plug)? This would be to allow a public car EV charger to charger an ebike via its standard 240v domestic charger.I dont know if the kind of EV charger you see dotted around the UK even uses 240V. Also not sure if J1772 type 2 connectors/plugs are the standard types here in the UK. Any thoughts or observations on this? Thanks

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2025, 10:19:21 pm
content: They might have some, or you can build your own. Would just require a resistor and diode internally.I'm not sure how safe the 120V versions would be, when connected to a 240V chargerhttps://www.amazon.ca/EVHIKING-Discharger-Station-Charging-Adapter/dp/B0CSBC995C?th=1I think 240V only should be fine?

author: uer166
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2025, 10:20:28 pm
content: I've made my own for my longboard (J1772 US version). It works fine, just take care of voltage ranges.

author: djsb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2025, 08:48:40 am
content: I'm first doing some research into the type of EV chargers in my local area using ZAP map. It seems the most popular connector is a type 2 connector (or receptacle) that has a flat edge on the top. The one I've ordered is a type 1 (j1772) so it will have to be returned to the supplier.I've had a reply from BP PULSE here in the UK asking if it's permissible to use their chargers for charging an ebike. They say yes it is, so that's at least encouraging. I've just got to visit a few of their charging stations and take a few photos of the connector that they use.I've found this onehttps://evbitz.uk/T2___UK_13A.htmlwhich might be suitable. There are also various type 2 to type 1 adaptors (and type 1 to type 2) available. Here is the charger I would be usinghttps://www.e-bikeshop.co.uk/products/bosch-ebike-6a-fast-chargerSo some more research needed.

author: uer166
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2025, 04:14:34 am
content: Just get a type 2 socket adapter and be done with it. There are no type 1 in EU, so no point in mulling over it. Type 2 socket is either 230V-ish single phase or 400V 3 phase 50Hz (remember the L-N voltage is still ~230). Both work fine on a battery charger rated to 240V.
Looking for light weight and small UPS - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: eeguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2025, 10:33:41 pm
content: Hello, I am looking for light weight and small UPS from reliable brand that can generate pure sine wave to power mini PC. Please recommend products. Thank you

author: brucehoult
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2025, 11:36:04 pm
content: You didn't specify any actual requirements but does 63.5 x 28.4 x 42cm and 3600 Wh do it for you? Might keep a mini PC going for 2 days. The big problem with most UPS is their self-consumption, which in this case is about 50W, possibly as much or more as the PC itself, depending on monitor etc.https://ecoflowtech.co.nz/products/ecoflow-delta-pro

author: eeguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 12:09:23 am
content: Light weight (less than 1kg) is the top priority. The rest are flexible.

author: antenna
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 04:03:10 am
content: What are the voltage requirements of the mini PC after the power supply? Is it like most computers with 12v, 5v and 3.3v, or is it a single supply voltage to the computer board? Are there control signals from the PC to the power supply?The reason I ask is because this may be something you can do with a battery and a series diode instead of buying something pre-made. For example, if the mini PC only requires a single 12v source, maybe you could use a 12.65v lead acid battery with a series diode dropping it to 12v. As long as the power supply is supplying power, the battery is disconnected as the diode will not be forward biased, but once the supply cuts out, the diode will immediately conduct allowing the battery to take over. The PC would see a slight drop in voltage, but it shouldn't be enough to cause issues (in this example).

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2025, 04:41:55 am
content: Most mini PCs are either 12V or 20V, 12V matches up well with 3S lithium ion and 20V with 5S lithium ion.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2025, 04:48:11 pm
content: I'd use a USB powerbank suitable for laptops.
LiSOCl2+ Super Cap Battery Expert - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: chek28
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 11, 2024, 05:11:11 am
content: Hello,I am looking for support from a specialist in power stages, current consumption etc. especially with batteries in IoT devices mainly.We developed an IoT location and telemetry device that in its first version we did it with 3xAA alkaline batteries and it works quite well. Both the MCU and the IoT Module work from 4.5V to 3.2V.Now we require to use the same PCB but with a battery pack of 2 or 3 LiSOCl2 size18505 + Super Capacitor. The maximum peak currents is 400- mAh approx.The requirements are as follows:- To know if the Super Cap size is sufficient to recharge if the device reports max every 5 minutes permanently on Cat-M mainly. It is to send a payload of about 300 bytes.- To know if a booster or step up is required and what features. The battery runs from 3.6 - 2.0V and we need to have the output voltage at 3.3V. The ideal is to maximize the capacity of the battery without the booster is depleting the battery considerably.- In other cases it will report once or twice a day, and is expected to have a life of 5 to 7 years with a 2 battery pack totaling 8.2Ah nominal.Battery LiSOCl2Nominal Capacity 4100mAh *1Nominal Voltage 3.6VMax. Continuous Discharge Current 80mAMax. Pulse Current 150mA *2Weight Approx. 29gSelf-discharge Rate ≤ 1%Operating Temperature -55~85℃Sup Cap 14250Nominal Voltage 3.67VNominal Capacity (3.67V）Internal Impedance ≤250mΩMax. Continuous Discharge Current 800mAMax. Pulse Current 2600mAMax. Charging Current 60mAMax. Charge Voltage 4.0VDischarge End-off Voltage 2.5VWe are not experts in this area and require guidance on what to test.Thanks in advance for your support!

author: coco
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 04, 2025, 01:38:35 pm
content: Dear friend ,We are a lithium battery supplier for IOT device. We are processing the similar solution for another IOT customers.Do you have any space limitation in your IOT device ? How is max size which you accept for the battery pack ?For the current use ER18505-2+ super cap 14250, did you test it ? How is the performance ? If the pulse ability is not enough , you can try a bigger size super cap 1550.This is widely solution for IOT device. We can submit free samples for testing. My email 413255202@qq.com or coco@sunmoonbat.com Mobile:8613986282065
Reversible rectifier. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MikeP
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2024, 12:34:09 pm
content: Hallo.Please share information and examples about reversible rectifier. That is, we are talking about the possibility of changing the polarity of the output voltage.Thanks.

author: f4eru
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2024, 10:36:08 pm
content: for what purpose ?

author: KD0CAC John
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2024, 02:06:01 am
content: 1st same as last - what are your trying to do ?I ask , because I do not think there is such a thing - rectifiers are made with diodes = diodes pass current in one direction " only " ?Half way - 2 diodesfull way - 4 diodes

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2024, 02:11:37 am
content: leave the rectifier alone and just swap the output wires around

author: HackedFridgeMagnet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2024, 03:02:27 am
content: something like that, except change the battery for the rectifier.the switch contacts wont like the motors though.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2024, 04:13:39 am
content: HackedFridgeMagnet's example is goof if you want to use a manual switch. The electronically controlled equivalent of this is called a "H-bridge".Are you after sinusoidal output voltages (hard), or just reversing the direction of a DC voltage (easy)?

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2024, 07:47:25 pm
content: That brings back memories of very early 60's. Popular electronics had a project with a transformer, germanium power transistor and low ohm pot. Essentially they used the transistor as a dual diode and the pot would eventually short out one diode or another.
Grid Tie Inverter w/Limiter and "Back Feed" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: OpenCircuit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2024, 02:03:00 am
content: How does this* grid tie inverter (2000w DC50-90V) monitor both phases independently in the US with split phase and only one clamp? Is it even possible to not "back feed" into the grid with this setup? Page 1 of the pdf has both methods and the images. One person claims he was able to get it working with two clamps in series, but I don't know how this does not end up with a back feed on at least one phase under ideal conditions. I can't quite comprehend the translation. Thanks for any help.*Link:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F9Y6WKJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2024, 04:28:13 am
content: The explanation is fairly explicit, those configurations are for using the inverter to power 240V (line to line) loads only. You put the current clamp in a spur running to the line to line loads.

author: OpenCircuit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2024, 05:19:53 am
content: OK, so the phase not being monitored just matches the monitored phase.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2024, 08:51:06 am
content: Quote from: OpenCircuit on December 21, 2024, 05:19:53 amIt does because it is only monitoring 240 VAC loads which are connected between the phases.
Electronic load, remote interface only - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Golana
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 03, 2025, 05:55:38 pm
content: Does anyone know of any companies that make electronic loads that are meant to go inside of a product and not be user accessible? I want something that only has a remote control interface (serial, Ethernet, USB, etc...) and no user interface or displays. I'm looking for something in the 1500W range that is non-regenerative. I do have more detailed specifications I want to meet but for now I'm mainly wondering if this type of product exists and who makes it. For context the product being built is an industrial battery charger/discharger and this would be used to discharge the battery and would go in an enclosure with the rest of the system.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2025, 06:03:30 pm
content: Probably Chroma is worth trying. But these kind of loads are also relatively easy to design yourself. For a similar purpose I have designed & build switched resistor DC loads for a battery manufacturer. These loads are remote control only.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2025, 10:47:07 pm
content: Whether it has a display or not doesn't matter, as long as it can be remotely controlled.You can go with 1x 1500W, or maybe 3x 500W loads in parallel.In any case its going to be a large enclosure and need good ventilation.

author: Golana
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 03, 2025, 11:15:17 pm
content: I'd prefer a COTS solution as it would be one less thing to design/manufacture/maintain and would come with all of the features I need (CC/CR/CP, remote control interface, etc...). It could have a screen but I would really prefer if it didn't.I know TDI made some of these back in the day under the dynaload name but searching their current production parts is difficult because they don't have pictures or datasheets available.
Consumer PSU design regulations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Njk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2024, 10:36:50 am
content: Look at a small external PSU, like a mobile phone charger, a laptop power brick, etc., etc. I do remember it was not always like that but by now every such PSU is designed such that it's not possible to take it apart in a non-destructive way. Frequently, the plastic shells are glued/welded together. The manufacturers are free to put any BS inside, the customers will never know. This is not because of typical copycat attitude. Rather, all designers have to comply with the related regulations on the target market. I wonder which government pioneered the non-separability requirement and when. Name the hero.

author: mtwieg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2024, 12:58:58 pm
content: Quote from: Njk on December 13, 2024, 10:36:50 amReally? I'm not aware of any standard or regulation saying power supplies can't be disassembled with a screwdriver or whatever.

author: ejeffrey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2024, 02:56:35 am
content: Unless you can point it out out there is no such regulation. It's just cheaper to make injection moulded plastic pieces that glue together than something servivable and these devices are generally too cheap to service anyway.Being completely sealed also allows good ingress protection (IPXY) which some customers need. Doing so with a screwed together assembly usually requires gaskets and a bulkiee more expensive design.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 14, 2024, 03:00:51 am
content: There are power bricks that can be taken apart. However the vast majority are welded because this way it's easier and cheaper to make mechanically strong enclosure, especially when minimizing the size matters.
Flyback transformer: What causes such a temperature rise? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bmxsesh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2024, 06:57:53 pm
content: HelloI am wiring an SMD flyback transformer to generate multiple voltages in a circuitI had to change a regulator to a different one due to the presence of an Enable function, and this one has switching frequency 100kHz instead of 52kHzI am using a TDK 13/7/4 core but the software I use to model it has the same dimension core from a different manufacturerDoes anyone know what causes such a temperature rise if the parameters are almost the same? I am satisfied with everything else although so few turns look a bit weird

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2024, 07:47:53 pm
content: The wire gauge (38) is ridiculously small for the 100kHz design, look at the calculated resistance and copper loss values for both designs.

author: bmxsesh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2024, 10:16:52 pm
content: Yeah, now it looks much betterI am going to tap the 13 turn secondary winding three times - 100%, 66% and 33% to get +15V (full winding), +10V (66% tap) and +5V (33% tap)So it is going to be 12 turns to split it nicelyIt seems to only depend on the air gap at this point
Li-ion Power pack's. From Cu & Al foil right through to 20,000mAH unit. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Odd-Job
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 06, 2024, 06:54:46 am
content: Stumbled across this whilst uTubing. Well made and thorough.From raw material right through to stress test and packaging.Worth the 26 minutes to see current manufacturing techniques and still a large "human involvement and hands on" job.Sub titles and closed caption available.Enjoy:Odd-jobOver
Designing a capacitive AC voltage dropper - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: 3Dogs
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 12, 2024, 06:06:24 pm
content: I am using a potted power supply module that takes 90-305VAC and outputs 12V (at 1.8A). I would really like to be able to run it on 480VAC if necessary. I’m thinking that the right value capacitor in series with the input will drop the voltage from 480V to something more reasonable - let’s say 50%, or 240VAC.The problem is - the power supply is (literally) a black box. I don’t know what the input circuit looks like, but I don’t think they have any power factor correction, so it’s probably just a full-wave bridge and a capacitor.I’m looking for suggestions on the best way to make this capacity voltage dropper.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2024, 06:26:29 pm
content: This is probably not the right solution. A series capacitor is not really going to provide any regulated voltage reduction, it would just work as a current limiter. It could still allow you to blow up your power supply with an over-voltage input.The better solution is a step-down transformer, from say 480 V to 240 V. This will give you proper isolation of the 480 V and a regulated output voltage.

author: 3Dogs
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 12, 2024, 07:28:55 pm
content: That’s not going to work.Nobody makes transformers small enough, and the big ones are enormously expensive (and too big).I wonder if I could make a TRIAC phase-angle chopper...

author: 3Dogs
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 13, 2024, 12:56:09 am
content: I think I’m going to use a simple leading-edge Triac dimmer, and pick the RC values to keep the peak voltage under 240V or so (well below the maximum voltage the SMPS can withstand). I’ll add a power resistor in series to keep the inrush current to something reasonable (I’ll need to take some measurements with the power supply fully loaded). This is only a handful of components, and should do what I need.I think.
Seeking Schematic for ZK-S4 Boost Converter Module from Aliexpress - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: finos
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2024, 08:18:28 pm
content: Hi everyone,I'm reaching out to see if anyone here has the schematic for the ZK-S4 boost converter module that I recently found onAliexpress. This module claims it can boost an input voltage of 2V to 30V with power output up to 80W, which is quite impressive and would be very useful for a project I'm working on.I've searched around but haven't been able to find any detailed documentation or schematics for this specific model. If anyone has the schematic or any detailed information on this module, I'd greatly appreciate it if you could share it with me .Thanks in advance for any help!

author: finos
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2025, 10:10:41 am
content: i guess no one has a idea

author: kripton2035
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2025, 11:34:54 am
content: this should help youhttps://hackaday.com/tag/buck-boost/

author: mtwieg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2025, 01:28:15 pm
content: Quote from: finos on July 11, 2024, 08:18:28 pmIt definitely can't generate 80W with a 2V input, if that's what you're hoping for. The description says this:QuoteSo that fuse on the input is probably rated for 15A. I doubt it even performs as well as the description claims anyways.QuoteYour best option is to buy one for a few dollars and reverse engineer it yourself.
High Voltage, Variable 300Volt DC, 300mA SMPS - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Ioannis
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 01, 2024, 05:54:35 pm
content: Hi.I would like to improve my current design of a Power Supply that is mainly linear with SCR rectifier control and has these specs:Line power 120 or 230 VacOutput variable 40 to 220 Volt DCCurrent max 400mAThere is a torroid Xformer that outputs 200Vac, this is rectified by SCR and then a P-channel MosFet controls the output voltage. A circuit compares the output voltage with the rectified voltage on the filter capacitor and controls the SCRs so that voltage drop on MosFet is not more than 7-10 volts, so that Power Loss is kept at minimum.I'd like to make a better design and use switch mode topology, with cheaper ferrite Xformer. What would you recommend to use and have similar specs?Thanks,Ioannis

author: jbb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2024, 08:50:58 pm
content: You know… the solution you’ve got sounds pretty good. I expect it’s got quite good ripple and noise characteristics, but is a bit heavy.Do you really need another design?I ask because designing a switch mode converter for a laboratory supply is quite a lot of effort. If you only need a small number, it may be best to get more of the same one you’ve already got.If you really want to pursue a switched mode design, I suggest you have a read ofhttps://magna-power.com/learn/white-paper/current-fed-power-processingwhere they make quite a good argument in favour of a current fed architecture.

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2024, 11:15:01 am
content: A walk down memory lane.....My 1960s (high school/college) 0-400V 250 mA tube lab supply.Based on the classic RCA tube manual and Heathkit linear series regulatorYour thoughts?Have a great day !Jon
Solar production a bit low here in UK midlands - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2024, 08:51:58 am
content: Funny white stuff on the panels -Don't know why MPPT is not coping with it

author: mzzj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2024, 09:23:02 pm
content: Your MPPT tracker seem to be malfunctioning. Correctly working MPPT algorithm would relocate you to to Spain or Chile.

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2024, 12:21:59 pm
content: Fantastic idea, I will see if I can locate some teleporter hardware to add to the inverter

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2024, 11:22:49 am
content: Got some production today through a thick layer of snow

author: Krotow
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2024, 11:52:56 am
content: Clear the panels from snow at first.Quote from: mzzj on November 21, 2024, 09:23:02 pmShould be redundant now. By some popular news sources almost all UK natives already relocated to Spain.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2024, 12:18:37 pm
content: parially shaded panels are tricky. It is not so much teh MPP tracker, but how they have diodes to react to partial shading. Often it is 1 diode for sevels cells and once 1 cell of the section is shaed the whole section is bybassed by the diode. You have beeen unlucky with 1 diode per vertical row and thus all sections partially shaded.

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2024, 05:21:38 pm
content: Quote from: Siwastaja on November 23, 2024, 11:22:49 amLet me guess, Orange is production right ? shame it is not the other way aroundI think I got the lowest total so far this year today 0.136Kwh

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2024, 05:25:05 pm
content: Quote from: Kleinstein on November 23, 2024, 12:18:37 pmYup we don't often have a choice with orientation, in my last house I had some pesky phone wires going past the roof and because they hit all the columns of cells they ruined the output, fortunately only in winter when the sun was low in the sky. The cost of getting them moved was astronomic!
Power Path design review - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Sariel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2024, 08:43:35 am
content: I’m designing the power path for my upcoming open hardware project: a precision measurement amplifier focused on DC/AC current, voltage, power, energy, and charge.This power path is solely responsible for generating the internal supply voltages, yet it already accounts for 50% of the BOM and is proving more complex than anticipated. SEPIC converters and USB Type-C PD controllers bring significant complexity.The plan is to create ±18.5V for current-sense amplifiers, enabling current measurements on common input voltages up to 16V, as well as 5V for the MCU and ADC to sample currents and calculate energy, power, and charge. The readings will be displayed on monochrome OLED screens.What do you think of this design so far? Is there anything I might be overlooking? What potential pitfalls should I watch out for? Should I prototype just this section to test it in the lab before diving into the analog/digital design?Feel free to provide honest and direct/harsh feedback.I thrive on negative feedback, it keeps me stable.DC_Power_Meter.pdf(766.77 kB - downloaded 62 times.)

author: Andy Chee
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2024, 09:22:53 am
content: Don't triple posthttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/precision-measurement-of-current-voltage-energy-charge-and-power-open-source/msg5701087/#msg5701087
FREE Australian Standard for EV Chargers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2024, 05:04:28 am
content: Apparently it's free now, but you have to sign up.https://store.standards.org.au/product/sa-ts-5396-2024EDIT: I downloaded it, it's not that exciting
12v LED driver vs 12v power brick - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: theleakydiode
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2024, 02:18:45 am
content: For constant voltage 12v LED strips but what actually sets the 12V LED driver supplies apart from standard 12v power bricks? Is there some kind of compliance or certifications the LED drivers meet?

author: tunk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2024, 06:08:38 pm
content: Wouldn't really know, but if it's constant 12V voltage, I'd guessLEDs can accept higher ripple than other devices, so the LEDsupplies may have a simpler design (and be cheaper).
Charge pump for inverting a negative power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Sariel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2024, 04:24:14 pm
content: Hello,Can I use a standard off-the-shelf inverting charge pump (from TI or AD) to convert a negative power supply input into a positive voltage?Are there any specific precautions I should consider? Can I connect the charge pump in the same way as in its typical application?Thanks!

author: PCB.Wiz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2024, 04:02:02 am
content: You did not mention what voltage and current ?You need a charge pump that can start-up, which means the switching section needs to work initially on the supplies you have available.Inverting charge pumps (like 7660) used for voltage doubling examples usually have 2 diodes externally.eg A Charge pump designed for doubling, like LM7665 can double 0,5V to 10V, or can be connected 0V, -5V to 'double' that to +5V

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2024, 02:11:46 pm
content: Quote from: Sariel on October 28, 2024, 04:24:14 pmThe only thing to be aware of is that charge pumps tend to be noisy. Some have linear post-regulators to clean up the output voltage but even then the charge pump itself can be a source of noise.
tapped inductor buck converter questions.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: johansen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2024, 10:16:56 pm
content: So it seems the tapped inductor buck converter is rarely employed.I'm wondering if anyone knows of a different topology that could be employed to make a bi-directional buck converter to operate on a 10:1 voltage ratio without excessive losses and cost, without resorting to a synchronously rectified bi-directional transformer based topology.The tapped inductor buck converter seems to me that the voltage across the high side switch, at turn off, will have the turns ratio of the inductor multiplied by the output voltage of the converter, added to the high side voltage stress on the switch.This added voltage stress seems to me, to make the topology mostly useless, because with RDS_on increasing with the square of the voltage rating of the mosfet.So suppose i make a 400v to 48v buck converter with a 2:1 inductor, at turn off the inductor has 48+1 diode drop volts on the secondary, 100+ volts on the primary. that 100 volts means the source of the high side mosfet is at least 100 volts below ground, so the gate driver has to be totally isolated.an energy absorbing snubber then has to collect that -100 volts and dump it back into either the load or the high side.. not easy.thoughts?

author: Andy Chee
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2024, 07:16:22 am
content: The thread topic seems misleading.The root question is whether it's possible to have bi-directional transfer without synchronous switches. AFAIK, the answer is no.
Bonded/Grounded Neutral on Transformer question (not shorting to ground?) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fried Chicken
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2024, 05:12:50 am
content: I recently poked around in the breaker box on the house to install some GFCI breakers feeding outlets under a sink (that the code at the time found acceptable given they are on separate breakers - the justification I still don't understand).As I saw the shared neutral and ground bus on the breaker, a nagging question formed in my head that always bothered me about AC: How can we pull a neutral off a transformer connect feed it to ground without inducing a "short"? It's my understanding current will "flow" into a nothing (unlike DC) as the "loop" that's formed goes into some weird unusual physics.... It's why you can feel a shock on just the hot wire of an AC circuit: the capacitance of your body allowed the current to "flow"... so how can we take a wire off a transformer and connect it into the earth without shorting out the entire electrical grid, or pulling a massive current from the power plant going into nothing?

author: uer166
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2024, 05:27:06 am
content: In your context it's galvanic isolation: the center tap of a Y-output transformer is isolated from the grid (as are the phases). To re-reference the phases back to earth, the neutral is staked into the ground. This is not universal though, in some countries the systems use isolated earth (mains floating relative to the earth conductor, but also relative to the physical ground you're standing on). There's no weird physics here.

author: ejeffrey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2024, 02:41:59 pm
content: Quote from: Fried Chicken on October 27, 2024, 05:12:50 amYou can feel a very small current.QuoteThere is probably some capacitive coupling across the transformer. That current will flow to ground via the ground rod (or maybe the transformer has internal screening? I'm not sure). But it's a small current because the capacitive impedance at 60 Hz is very large.

author: Fried Chicken
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2024, 12:29:05 am
content: I don't get it. I understand it's galvanically isolated, but would there still not be AC on the other side of the transformer, and wouldn't that carry current?

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2024, 04:48:17 am
content: Quote from: Fried Chicken on October 28, 2024, 12:29:05 amSome current.Quote from: Fried Chicken on October 27, 2024, 05:12:50 amPeople can feel in the order of 1mA, but appliances use in the order of 1A or the entire house 100A. Some mA of leakage is <<< operating conditions that it is ignored.Much more is lost along the way (partly through radiation and the "weird unusual physics"):https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_power_transmission#Losses
How can I check the power on a Line on the ground? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheDR
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 25, 2024, 05:38:20 am
content: Hey everyone, I’m facing a serious issue and could really use some advice. I live in a country where regulations are weak and the attitude towards safety is pretty indifferent. Outside my house, there are power transmission lines, and after a recent thunderstorm, one of them is hanging dangerously low. It looks like it’s only a matter of time before the line falls completely to the ground, especially with the next strong wind.From what I can see, the line might be disconnected and out of power because it’s already snapped off near the pole. However, I need to be absolutely sure there’s no power on the line when it eventually comes down.Here’s the tricky part: contacting the authorities hasn’t been helpful. The local electricity company and nearby substation basically told me they don’t care. I even reached out to an emergency electricity service located about 100 meters away (they have loads of transformers on site). Their response: "If the power goes out, we’ll fix it, but a dangling line isn’t our problem."The police said they’d only come if someone gets hurt, and the fire department doesn’t seem interested either. When I contacted the electricity company’s main office, I was told to send an email. Their autoresponder replied saying I should expect an answer within four weeks.So, my question is: What’s the best and safest way to check if the line is live? It’s most likely carrying 230V AC. Any tips or equipment recommendations to make sure the line is safe to handle (or avoid!) would be greatly appreciated.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2024, 03:01:55 pm
content: Hi there.Unfortunately, you can't be sure that there is no power on the line, and there is no safe way to check either.If the local electricity distribution company does not care about it, that is unfortunate, but it does not seem like there is anything you can do except wait until (or if) it falls. Then call them again.It is suspicious that the broken wires have not already caused an interruption to anyone's electricity supply, so perhaps it is not important.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2024, 04:00:58 pm
content: Looking at your second picture, it is possible that the broken cable might be a grounded conductor like the one shown below. Which would mean that of itself, it would not be energized. However, it might be a neutral, in which case, if it broke, it could cause bad voltages on other conductors.You probably should try harder to get someone to look at it. Don't tell people it is "sagging" or "hanging down" because they won't care about that. Tell them instead it is broken, and send them the photo of the broken cable. That is more important.
Amber Electric & best inverter/battery.... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: manicdoc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 30, 2024, 02:54:36 am
content: Hi,I wonder if someone could help in firming up my thinking around my home power set up.ATM I have two enphase solar installs, which can at max pump out 8Kw actual. I'm able to control some big power loads, such as AC, hot water heater and pool pumps. So I can do some solar output (& cheap times) to load matching minute by minute but with this I'm missing the ability to time shift power around. So saving money but not truly maximising things.In Australia there is a company called Amber Electric which allows you to get access to the wholesale electricity market directly - you pay ~$19 fee per month for this, but you get pricing currently in 30 minute slots (and soon to be 5 minute slots if the forum is accurate).My aim is to have a system that can use solar or grid to charge the battery when cheap and then use some of the battery to feed back in when grid power demand is high - so I save money by reducing what I pull from the grid but can also push onto the grid when profitable.I'm also after something that I can control, given I can do load timing or shedding if needed. I have a strong background in comp sci, so coding is not a problem (probably run it all on its own Pi using a state machine, DB and some data handling scripts). I was looking at the Victron MultiPlus-II GX charger/inverters which can be controlled by MQTT. Amber Electric look to have an API I can call. I was thinking of using LV Flex 5 batteries. This way I can add on more storage if the figures indicate it would be useful. Also it looks like this can operate like an UPS if the grid drops.I also suspect that not having a battery is causing the net charge to 'flip/flop' (i.e. some loss not really in my favour is going on), where as if I have the house load behind a battery there can be solid periods of running off the battery and so cut the grid loading to a solid zero.Basically, would this work? Or am I missing something.. Much thanks.
Chroma 62180D bidirectional source and load remote commands - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Gribo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2024, 05:57:37 pm
content: Hi all,I have a Chroma ATE Bidirectional source/load unit - 100V, 600A capability. It has a battery simulator functionality, is there anyone here familiar with these units?How can I get the unit into battery simulator through remote commands? I tried the BATT:INIT and BATT:OUTP commands, but unless the unit is already in battery mode, These commands won't do anything.Thanks,
"Tricking" a Capacitor? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: johnywhy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2024, 04:02:33 am
content: With an OOK-modulated, high frequency, high current carrier, if you filter out the high-frequency carrier, will the modulator frequency remain, providing the same current as the original carrier (with losses)?

author: Andy Chee
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2024, 04:12:34 am
content: Definitely not the same current. A certain amount of current will be dissipated as heat within the filter.AM crystal receiver is essentially what you seem to be replicating:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Envelope_detector....except you seem to want a "power" version.

author: johnywhy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2024, 06:07:28 am
content: Quote from: Andy Chee on October 09, 2024, 04:12:34 amYou mean losses? So, Isupply - filterLosses = Ioutput.

author: Andy Chee
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2024, 06:45:10 am
content: Quote from: johnywhy on October 10, 2024, 06:07:28 amCorrect. Filter losses are unavoidable.

author: f4eru
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2024, 11:44:21 am
content: if you use a linear low pass filter, the output will be zero (except on abrupt changes).You probably first need a non-linear element, like a diode bridge (also with losses)

author: johnywhy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2024, 05:59:42 pm
content: Quote from: f4eru on October 10, 2024, 11:44:21 amThe "abrupt changes" is the modulation happening below the cutoff freq of the filter.QuoteYou mean a rectifier? Won't that convert AC to DC? I don't want DC output, i want AC output.

author: Andy Chee
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2024, 11:29:46 pm
content: Quote from: johnywhy on October 11, 2024, 05:59:42 pmNot necessarily. As you can see in this diagram, a diode by itself will create a pulsed output which is definitely not DC:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulsed_DC#/media/File:Rectification.svg