Crappy soldering irons - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2013, 03:34:26 am
content: I don't solder enough yet to have the need for a station, so I use a butane soldering torch for the occasional fix-up. The other day I thought I was out of butane and needed to fix a lamp cord so I dug out my old Weller 40w iron I've had for 20 years but haven't used in forever.I let it heat for 30 minutes and then tried another 30 to get the wires joined. The solder kept beading up on the wire.I finally gave up and turned out I did have more butane. I had it all done in less than 2 minutes with the butane torch.So the question is, why do these plug in irons even exist if they don't seem to work ever? (And I was using standard 60/40 solder as well)

author: andtfoot
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 02, 2013, 03:54:34 am
content: I'm pretty sure 20 years of corrosion would have the same effect on any soldering iron.I use a plug in soldering iron all the time and it works for me.

author: AG6QR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2013, 04:06:10 am
content: How thick was the wire? It takes a lot more heat to warm up heavy gauge wire than to heat small leads on electronic components. The heavy wire conducts heat away from the soldering site.However, I'm not sure I understand what happened to cause the solder to bead up. The normal technique is to heat up the wire with the iron, and put the solder on the side of the wire opposite the iron, so that the solder only melts after the wire is hot enough to melt it. If you use this technique, the solder won't bead up, unless maybe the wire is really really dirty and corroded, needing lots of flux. What happens instead is that the solder won't melt if you don't have enough heat to warm the wire sufficiently.Lots of corrosion on the tip would also reduces the ability of the tip to conduct heat to the soldered metal. If the tip was stored well-tinned, it may be ok, but if not, that could be the problem. Is the tip nice and shiny now? Does the tip wet with solder well?I've used cheap small irons for small electronic components. They don't work nearly as well as a proper temperature controlled iron, but they will solder small things well.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2013, 04:43:38 am
content: It was whatever gauge a stranded lamp cord would be. Basically the copper wire was sucking so much heat (by my estimate) that the iron just couldn't handle it. But you are right, the iron was a bit dirty but I didn't think it would matter much from heating the copper wire from the back.

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2013, 07:23:12 am
content: What I call an old fashioned soldering iron work very well, unless you have lots of dirt and corrosion on the tip or between the tip and element, what they don't like is to be left on unattended for long periods as they have no thermal control other than heat being removed by conduction so the tip will burn/corrode rapidly if on and not used within a few minuets.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2013, 05:08:26 pm
content: Yes it sounds like corrosion. The cable on a desk lamp will typically be 0.75mm2maximum, so a gas iron should be able to handle that with no problem.The cheapest iron I've used was a 12W 12V iron I bought from a discount store and ran off a halogen lighting transformer and even it could've done this.

author: azi
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 01:13:21 am
content: Sorry, but in my opinion, you are using a crap tool.I got a butane soldering iron once out of curiosity, and my conclusion is that the only thing it was good for is if you need to do an emergency repair and you don't have electricity.I still don't have a full soldering station because they are expensive and take up a lot of space.The usual advice I've read from experienced "pros" is that "you NEED a temperature-controlled soldering iron and stop wasting your time with cheap junk!" I used to read that all the time when I was getting started. I found it annoying and I kept resisting upgrading because of the reasons just mentioned. I was using cheap tools from Radio Shack and similar, thinking they were ok for what I was doing.And as all those people said, I was just plain wrong. The difference is this: with a cheap iron, maybe you can make the connections, but it's difficult at best to do it right.With any decent temperature-controlled iron, soldering is easy and you can make beautiful and technically-correct solder connections quickly. It makes soldering into a pleasure. I used to think I had tools that were ok, but I was just bad at soldering. Once I got a good-quality iron, everything changed.I said I still don't have a full soldering station, so here is how I got a really good soldering iron for a more affordable price: The Weller WP25 is a simpler product that is just a good-quality plug-in soldering iron that is temperature controlled. The difference is that it has only one temperature, unlike soldering stations that allow you to set the temperature. It is only $38.50 at Mouser. I suggest you try that.

author: Maximus64
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 02:02:14 am
content: Need a better soldering iron. I recommended Weller Brand soldering station.

author: drake
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 02:14:52 am
content: A pretty smart guy once told me "the tools make the trade" and to be honest having the right tool, in this case a decent soldering iron, turns soldering into cakewalk. The reason radio shack sells cheap irons is because they are mostly dealing with newbies that are just starting out and don't want to budget big dollars in an auto temp controlled station just to make an led blink, which is fine to get started with. But they tip on you iron is probably worn out too, making matters worse.

author: Fsck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 02:21:14 am
content: Quote from: drake on October 07, 2013, 02:14:52 amditto: going from radioshack -> Hakko 936 -> Metcal STSS, every jump was pretty amazing in terms of how much better it made the experience. the 936 made soldering easyish, but the metcal really makes it pleasant.even a hakko 936 clone will probably make your life way easier for a minor investment.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 02:23:26 am
content: Quote from: Stonent on October 02, 2013, 03:34:26 amBut they do work.Questions:Did your Weller iron reach a temperature where it readily melted solder on the tip?Did the solder wet and flow over the tip of the iron so it was nice and shiny, or did it ball up on the iron when you applied it?Did you use a little solder on the iron tip to help transfer heat from the iron to the wire?Did you use extra flux on the wire to help the solder flow and make the join?

author: simpson
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 02:41:11 am
content: You just need a quality iron (properly tinned) such as a temp controlled type from Weller, Hakko, etc.

author: deth502
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 02:44:09 am
content: i dont have a temp controlled station either.i have a 25w weller, a 40w weller, and one of those hand held gun type/trigger ones.i can concur that the 25w weller has much difficulty with larger ac sized wires (16+ ga, your lamp cord was likely a 14 ga) the 40w works great for doing these all day long. the gun type iron heats up quick and is great for doing 1 or 2 large joints like this.also, a little extra flux works wonders sometimes as well.eta, just re-read the op and saw you did have the 40w and not the 25w. so, yeah, either needed flux or that iron's broken.

author: Robertmaks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 02:53:52 am
content: There might be a problem with the coil inside or a loose connection. I had a soldering iron that did the same thing so I measured the current draw and when I moved the wire I lost connection and when I moved it back it regained connection, so there was a problem with the cord. It was also a old soldering iron from my basement from about 25 years ago, but in mint condition. Just buy a new one, and they heat up in 5 minutes and get one that is adjustable, for about $10.

author: Greyersting
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 03:58:43 am
content: There are 2 reasons I can think of for why the crappy ones exist.1. People don't know enough about it to know they are crappy2. Someone needs a quick iron for a quick jobCurrently I am at reason #1.

author: Sar
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 04:39:16 am
content: I'd been using basic corded irons forever and had the usual experience. I had probably $150 worth of soldering irons sitting around at one points. Small ones for fine work, big ones for heavy stuff and a bunch in between grounded/ungrounded, etc.When I did my first contract surface mount project I knew I needed something better to make life easier so I ordered one of those basic temp controlled irons from SF with the fine point and flat blade tips. HUGE difference and, as far as soldering, it works pretty close to the bigger solder/desolder station I use at the office and has replaced all those wall plug soldering irons of various quality that junk up my workshop. It warms up in about 30 seconds too! I think a 'good' wall plug soldering iron is $15-$20 and the SF one was $35 or $40 or something along those lines. Do the math and stop your suffering

author: deth502
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 10:34:12 am
content: Quote from: Sar on October 07, 2013, 04:39:16 amsf?

author: Gert Kotze
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 10:49:44 am
content: I agree with Sar I have also tried using the cheap irons that are not temp controlled and suffered a lot unlit I bought myself a fairly decent solder station from weller and now soldering have become a joy.

author: Jibby
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 12:05:29 pm
content: Low cost and siplicity.

author: ciccio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 01:01:07 pm
content: Quote from: Greyersting on October 07, 2013, 03:58:43 amReason #2 is a valid one too.Once I was in another town for a simple maintenance job, and discoverd that I forgot to put a soldering iron in the tool box.So I went in the town's only hardware store and bough the only soldering iron they had available: a crap 220V/30 W.Soldering two 5 pin DIN plugs took about 1 hour, doing and redoing to get a decent result.From that day I have a soldering kit (JBC adjustable temp stylus + decent solder + 3rd hand) in the car trunk, for any need.

author: Sar
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 01:31:14 pm
content: Quote from: deth502 on October 07, 2013, 10:34:12 amSorry, Sparkfun

author: thomieboy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 04:08:01 pm
content: Hello,I Bought a verry crappy one at a LIDLE store for 20€, and believe me. IT IS REALLY CRAPPY. I learned that you better pay 50€+ for a solering iron.....

author: lagman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 04:10:56 pm
content: Is it possible to use sand paper to revive an old soldering tip?Mine is oxidized and the tin doesn't stick to it...

author: Yago
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 04:14:29 pm
content: Quote from: lagman on October 07, 2013, 04:10:56 pmNot usually .Sanding it will remove the plating and then the tip will corrode away in no time .Try getting some brass wool pads , they will removed oxides/crap without taking the plating off too .The brass wool is better for higher temps too , as the old damp sponge can crack the plating with thermal shock .

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 04:23:31 pm
content: Quote from: thomieboy on October 07, 2013, 04:08:01 pmIt doesn't need to be one for 50€. An Ersa Multitip costs about 32€ and is a good and solid iron if you don't like to buy a soldering station.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 05:56:45 pm
content: I gave up on irons that plug directly into the wall a few years ago. I bought a Hakko 936 on sale for under $100 and it was the best investment I have made. I also have a small Ronson butane torch that i use as a hot air gun for small diameter heat shrink tubing and to assist soldering PL259 coax connectors on large diameter 50 Ohm cable (ham radio operator). The only thing I found the big trigger type solder guns are good for are degaussing CRT TV sets and computer monitors (all LCD here). The Hakko FX-888 can be gotten off of eBay for less than $100 shipped. Excellent product and the tips can be ordered from China for cheap. My father always taught me to buy the best tool possible and only buy it once.Tom, NW0LF

author: Phaedrus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 05:59:03 pm
content: My parents' house still has a blackened spot on the carpet (under a bookcase last I saw) where my first crappy soldering iron fell off its worthless stand and set the carpet on fire. It was one of the Harbor Freight ones and cost like $5.Worthless.

author: deth502
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 07:45:48 pm
content: Quote from: lagman on October 07, 2013, 04:10:56 pmi often dress mine to the shape i want with a file, then break the corners with sandpaper, and tin the tip.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 07:54:31 pm
content: OK, update... The plating had disappeared from my old iron. I scrubbed it with a plastic dish scrubbing pad and it was just bare copper under the corrosion. I soaked the tip in vinegar for a little while until it was bright and tinned it. It worked much much better after that. I guess chalk that up to teenaged ignorance from when I bought it and not knowing how to care for it.

author: shk1d29
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 08:43:04 pm
content: Have watched Dave's soldering tutorials? They are one of the best on youtube that I have found. I myself have had quite few experiences with pencil soldering irons especially with R/C batteries and connections. Not a good combination. Even if the surface contacts are clean, you won't be able to heat an area quick enough unless (like you said) you heat the area for over 30 minutes or more. You need a proper soldering iron/station with the right tip as best possible to do the job right. Hakko FTW. Of course not everyone can afford a Hakko or even would have a need for one, but if you're into electronics, it is a must have. As Dave has mentioned in his must have list for your Electronics Lab.

author: SAI_Peregrinus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 09:25:49 pm
content: The Hakko FX888 is a good buy. I've got one, and it's quite reasonable. Weller's quality has gone down a bit in the last decade or so in my experience.That said, the crappy pencil irons do have a use: they're cheap enough to be disposable. You can do terrible, terrible things to a $10 iron, and as long as you don't burn the house down you're only out $10.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 10:15:15 pm
content: Quote from: lagman on October 07, 2013, 04:10:56 pmYou can, but you run a serious risk of removing all of the plating from the tip, which ruins it (a little copper will dissolve in the molten solder w/ each joint, usually seen as pitting due to holes in the iron plating <solder meets bare copper in the tip>).There are alternative materials & methods, depending on how bad it's oxidized. For example, you could start with brass wool, and see if that works. If not, try tinning compound. If that doesn't work, there is a pumice bar sold by Weller that is akin to your idea of sand paper (also brass brush works, which is what's used in Hakko's Tip Polisher; Aoyue makes a similar product). Past all of this (or some combination, such as using tinning compound after trying a brass brush), then you need a new tip.One I've not tried, but another member has recommended (robrenz), is to try Nokorode flux (zinc chloride or ammonium chloride flux used for plumbing; do not use this on electrical joints or it will corrode them). A good rinse of solder before using it on electronics should get any residual plumbing flux off.Quote from: SAI_Peregrinus on October 07, 2013, 09:25:49 pmSadly, I have to agree with this (tips & stations both).Not that they're junk, but have slipped below mainstream competition. And when you consider the costs are the same/similar, they offer less value as a result.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 10:42:59 pm
content: Quote from: shk1d29 on October 07, 2013, 08:43:04 pmYes, I have and now I only use fine solder, but had been using my butane iron because it heated so quickly. Since I'm almost all out of butane, I'm trying to use the electric one more.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 10:52:46 pm
content: Quote from: Stonent on October 07, 2013, 10:42:59 pmEver watched the Pace Soldering videos?Not exactly recent, but still quite relevant and useful. Take a look here if you're interested (https://www.youtube.com/user/paceworldwide?feature=watch).

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 10:53:21 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on October 07, 2013, 10:52:46 pmYes, those as well.

author: urbis
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 10:29:33 am
content: For most of my soldering, I use an Antex 25w iron, and it's now around 6 years old.Previous to this, I had an Antex 18w iron, which needed a new element at 17 years old.I have used butane irons (SolderPro) but preferred a wired iron.

author: lagman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 05:09:34 pm
content: Quote from: Yago on October 07, 2013, 04:14:29 pmThanks for the tip.My iron is a crappy thing that plugs directly in the wall. I decided that it's time to invest as I realized that I'm using it at least twice per week. I'm 24 with a EE master's degree so I like to mess with things.In my country (France) there are not a lot of options to find a proper soldering station. I found a small electronics shop but they had only Velleman in stock. I searched on the internet and that brand isn't very good apparently. I would love to get a Hakko but if I can't find it...I found this:http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__32515__Soldering_Station_with_Adjustable_Heat_Range_with_EU_plug_EU_warehouse_.htmlIt looks ok, specially when you consider the price.Should I buy this? This guy seems to think so!

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 06:42:41 pm
content: Listening to him waffle on about MOSFETs and the size of the transformer is painful.

author: zoomtronic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 09:38:07 pm
content: I agree, also having Ersa irons for long time, previously had Weller, but I switched to Ersa. Very satisfied with its performance

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 10:47:45 pm
content: Also my mistake, it wasn't a Weller, it was a Lenk brand.

author: lagman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 11:20:57 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on October 08, 2013, 06:42:41 pmWhy is that? I guess it was just to point out (again) that the Chinese one is less powerful.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 11:28:34 pm
content: Quote from: lagman on October 08, 2013, 11:20:57 pmIt doesn't use a MOSFET and the size of the transformer has nothing to do with it.

author: lagman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2013, 01:20:45 am
content: I guess it makes sense. So... In your opinion is this station acceptable? Can I do some decent soldering with it without killing myself?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2013, 01:23:01 am
content: Quote from: lagman on October 09, 2013, 01:20:45 amSure. I make do with much, much worse. Technique is more important than a fancy iron.

author: Skaface
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2013, 02:20:46 am
content: i dont really see the need of a temperature controlled iron for home use, its a nice thing to have but not necessary.. as other people have said, its mostly important that everything is clean and not corroded. The best soldering iron in the world wont solder an old corroded wire.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2013, 02:35:22 am
content: Quote from: Skaface on October 09, 2013, 02:20:46 amWell, it depends what you're doing. You won't get anywhere trying to solder really small surface mount stuff with an iron (yes, you can do 0.4mm pitch with an iron).

author: victor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2013, 03:17:18 am
content: I have been using a 25w cheap iron for years and I have to say that I'm pretty good at it, and I do pretty clean and smooth joints from through hole to SMD.A expensive iron would make my life easier? yes of course, but I wouldn't say that it can't be done and well with a cheap one.Mine doesn't have a temp control but I've found that I can leave it plugged all day the temperature is pretty stable I checked with a thermocouple, and once you get the timing it doesn't matter much.The only thing that bothers me is that I have to get a tinted tip so I don't have to scratch the copper tip everytime.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2013, 10:58:29 am
content: Quote from: Skaface on October 09, 2013, 02:20:46 amWith 15W and 25W irons you can solder most stuff quite well but large groundplanes or plugs get awkward. Using a 40W iron would give you more heat but also a higher temperature which might too high for some stuff. And you have to let the low power irons heat up again after soldering just a few joints. For those cases an iron with a higher wattage and controlled temperature, i.e. a soldering station, is very handy.

author: lagman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 09:22:06 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on October 09, 2013, 01:23:01 amI received my Yihua 936 (see video page 3).Here are my first impressions:*I opened it and solder joints are just ok. Lot of flux residues and components look like they have been salvaged from something else!*It isn't heavy enough and slides around when I pull on the cable. That cable is too stiff. Solved by placing some rubber underneath.*For the value (~20 EUR shipped) it works amazingly. It heats up in about 45 sec and the regulation works really well.*The tip is too thin for most of my work. It can't conduct heat fast enough towards the component. Solved by ordering a bigger tip:http://dx.com/p/replacement-lead-free-solder-iron-tip-for-hakko-900m-t-series-150900*Overall it's an amazing value for the money. If you just want to mess with electronics this is quite good.*The only unknown is the time it'll last...

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2013, 02:22:45 pm
content: It does not matter what type of iron you have if you cant solder properly you wont get good joints, but if you learn to solder with a temperature controlled iron you will find it hard to use anything else if you learn to make good joints with an old fashioned straight in the socket type of iron when you switch to a temperature controlled iron you will see a marked improvement in your joints without any apparent increase in skill levels. Good solder joints can be made with a copper bit heated in an open flame if you master this good joints with an electric iron are easy.

author: mtbolha
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 08:20:10 am
content: This guys told you almost everything, but I did not see anyone mentione the temperature. Gas operated soldering irons, get to very high temeratures, and they can solder much easyer, also you can reach into places where wired soldering iron makes you problems. I also gave few crappy soldering irons that I've bought just because they had good price and came with desoldering pump and simmilar that looked nice. And can tell you that, most of problems I have with them is the temperature. The crappy one that gets to 450 celsius, gets every job done with no problems, even if wire is coroded, just add some flux to the wire, and heat will do everything else. But the 25w that I have, gets to maximum 250 celsius, and makes me alot of problems, solder does not want to stick, taking ages to heat up the wires, or solder points in ciruits.I think that brand is not such important as temperature is, look at the iron that not just states that is adjustable and can get into high temperatures, but that the actual tip gets that temperature too. In soldering temperature is everything, you can have best brand one, but if it does not get into temperature needed at the tip, you will have problems. I like working with iron that is 450 celsius I allways have it set to max temperature and do every job fast with no problems, old wires, old motherboards.. everything with no problem, just need to watch that you dont burn something, work fast.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 01:06:39 pm
content: Quote from: mtbolha on October 23, 2013, 08:20:10 amSome numbers from good irons (both about €32):- ERSA Multitip-C15, 15W, around 350°C- ERSA Multitip-C25, 25W, around 450°CQuoteThe important point is to understand that a heated up iron looses temperature while soldering based on the thermal mass of the iron and the part being soldered. With enough power the iron could compensate that within some limits. A simple fixed low power iron looses a lot of temperature while soldering and the 15W or 25W aren't enough for keeping it hot enough for multiple joints at once or large parts. The higher temperature of 450°C gives you a larger margin for larger parts but might be too high for small parts. A more powerful iron doesn't help with the compensation because it heats up to a even higher temperature and could destroy parts. But it would help with thick wires or heavy metal plugs. From my experience a decent 15W iron works great for most standard parts and 25W for larger parts, plugs, ground planes, tinning wires and so on. A 40W iron is overkill for parts but nice for heavy metal plugs and thick wires. So you would need 2 or 3 irons to be able to solder must stuff correctly.A soldering station should provide enough power to compensate for the loss of temperature and keep the iron at a constant temperature within a window. Therefore the soldering station could be set to 320°C or 20/30° more for leadfree solder to solder most stuff without major problems and overheating parts.Another important issue is the tip. Always use the right tip for the job! A small tip transfers less heat than a large one because of the contact area. Also is has a lower themal mass than the large one. Small tips for small parts and large tips for large parts.

author: lagman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 02:26:34 pm
content: Thanks for the tips.So basically the ideal iron should have a big metal part inside it to store heat. That way the iron tip wouldn't drop temperature as much.The weird thing is that my irons are made of thin iron, not much thermal inertia in there!

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 04:22:55 pm
content: Quote from: lagman on October 23, 2013, 02:26:34 pmBut if you do that, the heating time is long and the recovery time is poor. There's a balance to be achieved.

author: ResR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 05:01:24 pm
content: I had a soviet era 40W soldering iron that was also over 20 years old, that had tip made of copper 10 mm diameter (I made a circuit of 3 TO-92s, 5 1/4W resistors, 6 standart 1N4148's and 2 3mm LED's that fit into 1/4 of 6F22 battery using two plastic end caps from depleted Duracell battery to check 9V batteries). It corroded to 8 mm in a part just before it reach the heater and half of the 90 degree part was filed off during many active use years. I had to add smaller copper wire to solder smaller electronics and wrapped it with steel wire to main copper, the steel wire covered in rust in a few hours. The heater failed recently and iron was scrapped. Now I have a red 25W Weller and it too starts to corrode the same way as the soviet "brand" did.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 06:08:57 pm
content: Quote from: ResR on October 23, 2013, 05:01:24 pmThat's strange! What kind of solder and flux are you using?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 06:15:37 pm
content: Quote from: ResR on October 23, 2013, 05:01:24 pmAnother question would be what are the tips made of? Bare copper or are they plated (not just solder on bare copper)?

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2013, 08:24:05 pm
content: On this subject does anyone know of the Lenk tips for their current 40w model fit one from 20 years ago?

author: PokemonCookies
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 25, 2013, 12:56:17 am
content: I have two soldering irons that I bought at a hardware store they are not stations just standalone irons. I've noticed that if the tip Isn't clean that It will not tin, I constantly have to either grind the oxidation off with a file or use a steel wool pad to get the gunk off. I am constantly having to reshape the tip, because it seems to keep developing pits from moderate use. the tip also bends a little and requires adjustment by pressing it against my bench. While they aren't the best there is they work for most people who can't afford a professional solution. I believe that they are useful If you're lucky enough to figure out the mysterious behavior of the iron since they all have different personalities they will all vary greatly.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2013, 02:06:10 am
content: Quote from: PokemonCookies on October 25, 2013, 12:56:17 amYou've gone through the tip's protective plating. Once molten solder makes contact with the copper in the tip, it dissolves it over time (aka leaching), which you see as pitting.So you'll either need to find new tips for them, or get a replacement iron or station.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2013, 02:08:56 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on October 25, 2013, 02:06:10 amYeah in the short period that I've been using this iron, the tip is completely gone and is just a blunt stump. Or as someone else said when looking at my soldering "Where can I get a solder shovel like yours?"

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2013, 02:36:24 am
content: Quote from: Stonent on October 25, 2013, 02:08:56 amOddly enough, there used to be a couple of tips shaped like a shovel for mine.