hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Stupid, what does this plug into question? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jayco242
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2013, 05:06:28 pm
content: Hi,can anybody tell me what this item plugs into:-http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tektronix-PM205-Personality-Module-68020-Pods-/300589418127Please dont say a Tektronix analyser or a 68020! I am starting a home brew computer projectbased on a 68020(not a Mac or Amgia clone) and was wondering how useful it might be?ThanksJason

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2013, 05:51:07 pm
content: It plugs into a 68020 socket and then the 68020 goes on top of that. The purpose is to bring the processor pins out to a logic analyser. It could be that it also teaches the LA to understand the 68020 instruction set so it can show the disassembled code, but maybe not this model.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2013, 07:27:36 pm
content: basically what poster above posted. this cartridge probably also has some firmware for the logic analyser to do inverse assembly and probably has extra hardware so you can single step the cpu and even take over data and address bus to run diagnostics.why do you want to muck around with an obsolete processor ?

author: baldengineer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2013, 07:30:08 pm
content: Without the associated logic analyzer modules and software, the pod by itself isn't going to be of much use.

author: jayco242
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2013, 07:36:55 pm
content: Doh!That part I could figure out. What I dont know for sure is what model of logic analyser to plug into. Didnt have much luck looking for additional info online this part is prob 20 years obsolete. I would hope it does more than just setup the pins on the logic analyser maybe full binary decodes. Dont have any experiance with Tek stuff always been in HP shops.The reason I want to use this processor is that it is full 32 bit and the cpus support a function rarely seen in commercial implementations. The cpu, mmu, fpu and accessories are discrete chips unlike todays modern wonders where everything is built in for you.Jason

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2013, 08:17:12 pm
content: Quote from: jayco242 on December 30, 2013, 05:06:28 pmI'm quite sure that this part was not there at the time I posted my reply...
STW ta35/35 4-20ma transmitter replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ScottM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 30, 2018, 07:25:07 pm
content: I am trying to find a replacement for a STW TA35/35 4-20ma 3-wire rotary transmitter/sensor. STW does not show this part online but I have written to their tech help hoping for more information. I am having no luck finding a replacement. This operates as an injection pump position sensor, has a 90 CW degree range and excites with an 8.5V signal from the ECU. This one tests choppy in the middle of the range and is messing with the ECU. It is fully sealed and I will try to cut it open for repair but that may be the end of its life.I cannot locate anything similar that will take the harsh environment and in this physical size. I've attached 2 pictures hoping maybe someone has some ideas.Thanks for the help.
Sub $100 Usb Microscopes?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: peps1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2013, 06:04:26 am
content: Anyone had any luck with Sub $100 Usb Microscopes?I have really poor eyesight, but have also started getting into SMD....not a good combination! So, looking for a scope that will let me work off my laptop.Trouble is the last couple iv looked at had way to much lag to be practical to work with though fine for checking work.

author: mrflibble
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2013, 06:45:56 am
content: I use a cheapo USB microscope for inspection, it was about $27 on deal extreme.It washttp://dx.com/p/8-led-illumination-230x-zooming-usb-digital-microscope-with-dock-stand-and-tripod-29661that type, only a little cheaper. Can't find the exact SKU right now. Anyways, those work pretty well for checking out joint quality and seeing if you made any shorts.Oh yeah, and the tripod is total crap. Just so you know.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2013, 09:02:43 am
content: I'd spend money on a simple optical microscope to work with rather than dealing with the many limitations of a cheap camera system. Lag, lack of 3d, resolution etc

author: Flump
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2013, 09:27:55 am
content: I have an old video camera (takes tapes) which i usehere are some sample captures for you

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2013, 03:11:16 pm
content: I have a USB microscope next best thing to useless for smd assembly but OK for looking afterwards, I found that one of those magnifying headbands is best for assembly I tried a jewelers loupe but that gets your face a bit to close for comfort to the soldering iron, the usb microscope has the same problem to close to the work and you are not looking at the workpiece but at a screen.

author: MrAureliusR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 04, 2013, 01:06:14 am
content: I'm curious myself, I've seen a few on e*ay and was wondering if they were any good. I'm definitely going to need some sort of magnification going forward and decent stereoscopic microscopes are expensive. I don't do much SMD but it'd be nice to check joints with.Would the above mentioned one be good for through hole soldering?

author: mrflibble
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2013, 03:35:36 am
content: Quote from: MrAureliusR on October 04, 2013, 01:06:14 amIf you mean the usb microscope I linked to ... yes, works just fine forinspectingthrough holes as well. Those kind of microscopes are no use during soldering itself though. Focus point is far too close, so you have the microscope right above the pcb. No room for soldering iron or hot air gun. But it made inspection a breeze. I used to use an optical microscope for that at first, but usb microscope + laptop is far more convenient.I'd love to get me one of those stereo microscopes a la mantis, but the price is a bit too steep for me at the moment...
sub for an lm358 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 06:02:31 am
content: hi all im building a circuit for an electronic load to discharge lithium ion cells,it specs an lm358 for the opamp,ive only got MC34071PG opamps,im sure there dual,will one side do as a sub for the 358?,cheers Paul m3vuv.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 09:39:55 am
content: It depends on the circuit, which you forgot to post. The MC34071 is single, not dual and its output can't get as close to the negative rail, as the LM358. It's also faster, which could make it more prone to oscillation in your circuit.The LM358 is cheaper than the MC34071, so why not order some?

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 10:22:53 am
content: see atached schematic,those opamps are what i have to hand,just wondered if i can use them instead.

author: srb1954
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 10:51:44 am
content: Quote from: m3vuv on November 03, 2020, 10:22:53 amThis whole circuit is pretty dubious. I would look round for a better design.The main problem is that the 358 op amp is run off the 5V supply and it is going to struggle to put out enough gate drive voltage to fully turn the MOSFET on for anything morethan moderate output currents.A quick fix would be to run the op amp supply off the incoming 9V supply but then it is potentially unsafe for the MOSFET if that incoming supply exceeds about 11V.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 10:56:58 am
content: That's a poor circuit, itwilloscillate with faster opamps (unless C4 rescues it).You need a series resistor on the mosfet gate (10 - 47R). A series resistor on the feedback path between R3 and the inverting input, maybe 1k) and a feedback capacitor directly between the output of the opamp and the inverting input to slow its response.Edit: ... and as srb1954 says, it may well not provide enough gate drive voltage for the FET.

author: SmokedComponent
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 01:50:22 pm
content: I'd try using MCP6002. In fact I used in my mini load, works okay. It's slow as LM358, easy to get working and is rail-to-rail (will be able to drive gate almost up to 5V and a bit closer to zero than 358 from my experimenting). It also has CMOS high impedance inputs. Its maximum supply is 6V, which won't be problem in your case.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 09:55:34 pm
content: The MC34071PG will work fine except for the potential for oscillation which can be solved by adding a low value resistor in series with the MOSFET gate and a feedback capacitor from the operational amplifier output to inverting input.
Subject specific courses - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Six
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2013, 02:56:01 pm
content: I've always found it strange that universities offer courses in Electronics but also specialist courses in Avionics, Robotics, Audio Electronics etc etc.I would have thought getting a good grounding in all matters electronics would be the way to go rather than painting yourself into a corner with something subject specific.Any thoughts?

author: jpb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2013, 03:49:58 pm
content: I think that you are right.As a teenager I wanted to do electronics, hence electronic engineering. The university I went to only did Engineering Science covering all engineering but allowing you to specialise in the 3rd year. I specialised in electronics of course but I think it was good to get a basic understanding of all aspects of engineering even structures and surveying (which I hated). You never know when it will come in useful such as when I had to analyse the structural strength of a gold airbridge on a monolithic integrated circuit.

author: Tris20
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2013, 02:59:09 pm
content: I agree that specialising should generally come later. In reference to audio electronics-I had an interest near the end of high school. I decided to take a few years out and get a job and during this time looked through a number of courses. Too many of them did seem to pigeon-hole the student straight from the start which is very limiting in terms of employment to say the least.In the end I picked a course "Electronics with music". It's 2/3 EE and 1/3 Music. Perfect balance if you ask me. We get a very broad maths education so skills are applicable to other fields. With the music option we have a separate module from the Arts students (they can choose it if they like though) which goes over a lot of things we also cover in electronics. This makes electronics a lot more interesting as you can see first hand the application of the electronics knowledge (such as filters) which is something that the other EE students don't get. We also get early exposure to DAC and Nyquist etc.I remember looking through a good 5-10 courses before picking this and this course did seem very much like the exception though
suboptimal conductive traces on PCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: m4rtin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2015, 09:29:19 pm
content: I have a following piece from a punch-down block for Cat5e cabling:What is the reason for those fairly large conductive areas on PCB? I mean the ones which are coverd under the lacquer and for example cable strand nr8 will be connected to one of those conductive areas. One would think that it's tiny bit cheaper to produce this PCB if it contains bit less conductive materials or is there actualy a reason simply not to make the traces as thin and straight as possible?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2015, 05:21:09 am
content: Image broken, 403. I think, your Dropbox is not publicly shared?Copper is generally a small part of the total cost of producing and printing a PCB. There may be money saved in etching less (the etchant needs less maintenance = faster board production), or in etching more (more maintenance = more recycled copper). The difference might not even show up until you order a million quantity.Tim

author: m4rtin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2015, 05:18:50 pm
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on June 16, 2015, 05:21:09 amSorry, I fixed the image link. Etching is the process of removing a thin layer of copper on PCB except from places where the tracks needs to be? And in a nutshell, at least in this case, there probably is no technical reason not to make the traces as thin and straight as possible?
Substituting a Mosfet for a transistor and relay. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Ed.Kloonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2012, 11:24:43 pm
content: Hi.I have found an old article for driving a temp controlled pump. The circuit is pretty good the way it is but I need to make a few changes.Firstly, it calls for a mosfet which would cost about 8 dollars at Jaycar. I want to swap that for a bc548, a high power relay with a coil resistance of 160 ohms with a 1A protection diode.Except the mosfet, all of the parts above I have here and would prefer to use them if I can. I want to use a relay to both isolate the circuit from the pump and also there is a chance I may need to run a 240v pump in the future.A further problem is I'd like the pump to stay on for an adjustable time period of 0-20 seconds. And this is where I'm stuck. I need help and suggestions for a simple circuit between the output of the comparator, the delay circuit between it and the base pin on the transistor. If I start adding capacitors, wont it stuff up the hysteresis? Can I somehow incorporate the unused 2nd comparator? How would you do it?The problem is the pump would turn off too early since the water tank is quite far from the solar collector. I want it to keep running for a few seconds while the pipe is still hot.Here is the original circuit:And here is the article:http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_30610/article.html

author: onlooker
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 12:13:37 am
content: Instead of doing the 20 secs, you can have a sensor3 at a pipe location near the water tank, and connect sensor3 + sensor2 to IC1b similar to IC1a; and then "OR" the outputs of IC1a and IC1b (e.g with 2 diodes).

author: Ed.Kloonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 02:02:21 am
content: That's a good idea. Might just do that. Thanks.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 08:34:01 am
content: how about connecting a signal transistor to the output and that can charge a capacitor with a resistor in parallel on the second comparator that will keep things going for another 20 seconds (I managed about 2 minutes with 100uF and 1MR by lowering the reference to 1/10 Vcc so 20 secs is a doddle).Otherwise you could use a micro but that might be overkill.

author: MartinX
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 11:18:52 am
content: I would keep the mosfet solution, in that circuit you could use any mosfet capable of handling the current of the pump motor it does not have to be the expensive one in the schematic. It is possible to parallel a bunch of cheap IRF540 or what you happen to have at hand. Relays are always pretty bad at high DC currents especially if there is even higher start currents. It is easy to use an external relay for a 240V AC pump if the need occurs in the future.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 11:31:37 am
content: Yes the mosfet will be the best solution particularly if your after low power, you can always put a relay on instead of the pump and connect the pump to the relay
substitute for  2Ж2М tube - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Deactivated-1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2020, 01:38:23 am
content: I want to know what is the equvalent of the 2Ж2М pentodeI can't even find a datasheet for it.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 02, 2020, 04:27:36 am
content: There isn't a direct replacement for the 2Ж2М/2j2M/2Zh2M. The 2K2M is close, but it's a soft cut-off vs sharp cut-off. The European KF3 & KF8 can sub for the 2K2M, with modifications.Some data for the soviet tubes can be foundhere- andhere

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 02, 2020, 05:22:16 am
content: If you didn't have any and knew you couldn't get them … why fucking ask?Another one for the filter…
Substitute for D6254 808E EEPROM - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2013, 09:44:12 pm
content: Good night, I'm trying to find a drop in replacement for a D6254 808E EEPROM, all I know is that it is an SO8 chip, and I cant find any datasheet about it.Any one know something about this little thing?

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 08:09:02 am
content: I think it's a serial eeprom from what googling I could find. If you knew the capacity I think the 24cXX might work. (XX depending on size)Since you'll have to program it, what is the size of the file you'll be programming into it?

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 08:11:09 am
content: I found several references to similar parts being used in cars or car stereos. What did this one come out of?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 11:01:02 am
content: The part number you're looking for is uPD6254 - 4Kbit EEPROM made by NEC.There's some info in Chapter 8 of this seemingly unrelated document on a lower-capacity version:http://documentation.renesas.com/doc/DocumentServer/U10182EJ2V0AN00.pdfLooks like an odd variant of a 24Cxx.

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 06:14:19 pm
content: Its from a Hitachi j100 igbt inverter f5, that is giving an EEPROM error saying that it has been written more than 10000 times, it as lost all the calibration/configuration and refuses to work, there is a bit more info in this topic:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/troubleshooting-a-technogym-runrace-treadmill/msg230430/#msg230430I'm sort of hoping that simply putting in a new blank EEPROM will cure all this, its a long shot, but an eeprom is cheap to try and see.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 06:18:29 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on June 19, 2013, 11:01:02 amI can't believe you found that, I searched Renesas up and down and couldn't find anything

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2013, 12:53:43 pm
content: Quote from: Stonent on June 19, 2013, 06:18:29 pmThe first thing I tried was Googling '6254 EEPROM'. That lead to an NEC part selection guide from the early 90s, and then I searched the '6253 and '6252 which eventually lead to that PDF with the details.

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2013, 08:43:31 pm
content: I always tried with the D in the begin and could not get anything usefull.So some 24C04 should get me sorted, right?EDIT:Might not be that straight forward :/I found another NEC document that specifies the D6254 as a 4Kbit(512 xwith a serial interface with four two control signals:CE, CS, SCL, SDA(2-wire BUS)All the 24C04 that I can find don't have any CS pin, only WP and address pins.This might be an unobtanium part actually.And thanks for your help guys

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2013, 08:19:11 am
content: Depending on what the CE and CS pin are for, maybe you could use a standard EEPROM with some connectivity rearrangements.
Substitute for GP30NC60K - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Traceless
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2025, 08:07:18 pm
content: Hi everyone,I have trouble sourcing an exact replacement for a bipolar transistor (GB30NC60K). Looking for a substitute I found theIGP40N65H5which is available. While the application notes are different, i.e. Motor Driver, HF inverter for the GB30NC60K vs. solar converters/ups/welding converters/mid to high range switching converters for the IGP40N65H5, the IGP40N65H5 has similar specs to the GB30NC60K. In cases where ratings differ the IGP40N65H5 seems to outperform the GB30 (e.g. higher voltage / current ratings, higher power dissipation, also the turn-on/-off delay is faster). The intended use is a motor driver. Is there any reason I missed that renders the IGP40N65H unsuitable as substitute for a GB30NC60K?Cheers Traceless

author: benj38
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2025, 10:26:13 pm
content: Looking at the two datasheets, it looks like a good substitute to me.I am assuming here that no other IGBT is in parallel with it (not so common, but who knows).

author: Traceless
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2025, 11:37:37 pm
content: Hi benj38, thank you very much for taking a look. There is only one GB30NC60K in circuit.
Substitute Transformer with Different Plate Rating - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: RJDog
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 01:07:00 am
content: So I need a transformer to provide 9VAC on the secondary, and I need it to fit within a certain footprint (that is, within a 1U case). The best I can find that fit in my footprint at all are toroidal (no surprise), but all are 220V primary... not ideal for Canada (120V mains). Can I simply use a 220V primary, 18V secondary transformer to get 9V from 120V mains? Is it that easy? And if so, does the VA rating of the transformer stay in tact or is it cut in half (e.g. 50VA transformer to provide 18V @ ~2.5A now turns in to 25VA to provide 9V @ ~2.5A)?

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 09:15:56 pm
content: Yes you can run it at half voltage but the current rating remains the same. So you get half the power. Otherwise you will overheat the windings.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2020, 10:00:27 pm
content: There's a knock-on effect however. Less voltage means the voltage drop due to losses (winding resistance and leakage inductance) is relatively larger. That is, you can run at the same current rating, but the regulation figure will be twice as bad.This might not matter much for a toroid -- the regulation is typically quite good, in particular leakage is small, and DCR probably dominates.Ideally, use a 4x overrated transformer, which will deliver the same regulation at half the voltage. It will also run about 2-4x cooler!Otherwise, have you considered a switching supply? What about the 9VAC do you really need? Is it just rectified, or what? There's even the option of running a 12-15VDC supply and an inverter (with a "modified sine" or better output) -- the parts cost may in fact end up less than the iron-core transformer, the main problem is it's an entire power supply that needs to be designed and tested so the NRE is quite large.Tim

author: RJDog
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 01:54:21 pm
content: Thanks for the replies! I found one 220V->18V that is ~3x over-rated for power (VA), so I'm assuming that should be sufficient once the power gets cut in half for half voltage. The original (external) 9VAC power supply is rated 25W, new transformer for me to build an internal power supply is rated 80VA (@220V primary).I did actually try to think of using a switching DC power supply first (I have lots of 9V and 12V bricks lying around), but it didnt work... looks like at least the LCD, and maybe some other things, are tied to the AC voltage...

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 05:08:15 pm
content: Also, are you sure they aren't dual primary? Pretty common, use series connection for 220, parallel for 110. Same for secondary, so you can get 9 in parallel or 18 in series for example. (I don't know what family you're looking at so I can only guess whether it's an oversight or actually is that way.)Tim
Success  Prototype 40v 4amp MC1466L power supply Thankyou everyone that helped ! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2018, 09:23:30 am
content: It works !!! With a few little tweaks I'll get the output perfect. It's a bit of a mess right now with all the hacks but it works great .Nice sweet current control with a nice 1 milliamp step.Goes to 3.98 amps at max.All the 2N3055,s get warm but not to hot to touch so they're all running at all levels of current .So far the voltage control works with 1 millivolt step without any problems but will test that further.The final model I'll change out the analog meters for digital ones.I finally figured out the math to get the values of resistors that get the output amperage of each transistor and balance the ones in parallel.With this design I can increase amperage output as much as i need but we'll see.I would like to thank everyone that had offered their input and help.Here's the schematic ,so far, that works.Again thank you folks.

author: j2lr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 24, 2021, 10:38:23 am
content: Hello,I have just finished a laboratory power supply which might interest you !!!....with MC1466L and MJ3001(darlington)0-20 V 5A0-50V master 1A0-50V slave 1A symmetrical3 multimeter ICL7107Best regardsJean-LucCavan France

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2021, 04:11:34 pm
content: Just curious: where did you get an MC1466L? I't been obsolete for 40 years.

author: Dan_Ohm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 24, 2021, 04:28:37 pm
content: I like that MC1466!!

author: j2lr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 24, 2021, 05:16:48 pm
content: HelloI found them here :https://www.ebay.fr/usr/txhang_fans?_trksid=p2047675.l2559In sets of 5 : 22€Best regardsJean-luc
Need workaround so Arduino GUI works with my old clone boards (Fixed) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2017, 04:09:01 am
content: I've temporarily reverted to the old version deb and am running the new version from /usr/local It seems there might be some issue with avrdude but its definitely my fault for having two separate sets of Arduino stuff on the same machine at the same time..But for now I have my old sketches working (needed baro/humidity/temp) and am also able to launch the new install from the command line and use it and so thats good...I didn't remember uninstalling the old version but the log tells me that the other day it appears that I did while installing dependencies for st-link .-----The other day i was fooling around with the Arduino GUI (installing new defs for some new HW) and (I think) Arduino Board Manager changed its low level code for "arduino" products that resulted in mySeeeduino 2.21 'clone' suddenly not being recognized under the Arduino IDE as such.(It has a real FTDI FT232RL chip with a legitimate FTDI serial number BTW.)The immediate problem is that the serial port is not recognized, in the Arduino GUI - however other USB/UARTs are and there is no problem hardware wise with this one, its also a real FTDI chip.Is there any guide to writing your own board definition file, or can I just tell it to ignore it selectively?Previously I never had any problems simply selecting "Diecmila" or "Uno".

author: westfw
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2017, 08:02:46 am
content: The old arduino boards aren't Recognized; they just show up as serial ports.

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2017, 01:59:32 pm
content: Everything seems to be working if I leave the old package installed and use the new one, built from source from its own directory.
Sudo apt-get update error; raspbian - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2015, 05:28:31 am
content: 1. I have RPi2 board with raspbian loaded.But if I run sudo apt-get update command, it just don't work.First some packagnes failed & then loading get stuck at 6%.2. However, if I try to install other packages on internet they work fine.

author: krish2487
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2015, 06:54:51 am
content: Hello,Not to sound rude, you do realise that this is an electronics forum and not a *nix forum.ubuntuforums and debian forums are the ones where you should be looking.PS: Granted, people here will help you outeventuallybut not spoonfeed. Please do your research first and approach if you still cannot find a solution.Three back-to-back posts wont guarantee faster response.From the looks of it, you are not having much experience with *nix either. First use the desktop version to get acquainted thenapproach the embedded ones like pi and BBB.

author: Wh1sper
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2015, 08:02:42 am
content: try to ping to an internet site.If network is ok, try to use another debian mirror. /etc/apt/sources.list is the key for it

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 04, 2015, 08:06:27 am
content: You will find interesting files in /var/log

author: bitwelder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2015, 02:41:06 pm
content: Quote from: krish2487 on July 04, 2015, 06:54:51 amOr even better, at Rpi 'home':https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/Then, you also need to explain better the 'failure' in apt-get. Doesn't find the package, is the index outdated (aka run apt-get update first), can't save the package (filesystem full) ?
Sugestion for swithing regulator in larger SMD size and with LTspice model - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Back2Volts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 08, 2020, 12:56:46 am
content: I am working on a home project where I need to 3V and 5V, starting from 24VAC. Most of the current budget on the 3.3V, with just a token current on 5V. It will be feeding an ESP32 development board, with small display and a number of small parts. I doubt it will get over a few hundred mA, so I am looking for a switching regulator capable of delivering 500mA at 5V, feeding a 3.3V LDO.I have a circuit in LTspice with a LT8607, which would do it. The problem is that the part is too small for my use. I was looking at the AD/LT parts because of the availability of models for LTspice, but all are in very small packages.I would like a 5V step down part that can take 36 to 40V as input, on something like an SOIC and with model for LTspice.A will appreciate any suggestions.
Sugestions about thermal binding machine stuff - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: skerdzius
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2013, 05:01:09 pm
content: hello,i bought this GBC T400 Thermal Binderhttp://www.gbceurope.com/gbc/en/gb/p/461/4400410/gbc-t400-thermal-binder-uk.aspxfor $3, i tore it down and it has 40x330mm (1.6x13 inches in america:) ) heating plate which is the most interesting part in this thing.i want to ask you guys to give me suggestions what to do with this thing in electronics. what is the best way to use it ?
Suggest some books, tutorials  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: VickySalunkhe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2017, 06:08:40 am
content: I was looking forward to gain deep knowledge in the field of electronics but for now i am in the basic stageI wanted to know which books, tutorials should i start from to gain knowledgeFor building dc motors, electronic circuits

author: iainwhite
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 18, 2017, 12:21:52 pm
content: The second 'sticky' thread in the beginners forum, which has over 300 postshttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/electronics-primers-course-material-and-books/

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2017, 01:06:14 am
content: Here are archives of many hobby and professional magazines and projectbooks, Usually mags have a column that discusses basics.http://www.americanradiohistory.com/index.htmRegards, Dana.

author: rhb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2017, 02:35:52 am
content: I strongly recommend "Electronic Principles" by Malvino. The most recent edition is ridiculously expensive, so get an older one. I have the 1st and 2nd. I taught myself from the 2nd and later found the 1st as a discard. It has some very useful stuff the 2nd dropped to make room for other things. The *really" good thing about Malvino was he personally built and tested every circuit example! Not many authors work that hard. I assume that has continued through later editions, but don't know for sure.The next step (a *big* step) is "The Art of Electronics" by Horowitz and Hill.Have Fun!

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2017, 01:42:15 pm
content: links to copyright content removedRegards, Dana.

author: iainwhite
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 19, 2017, 03:02:25 pm
content: Dana,Not sure you shold post those on the forum - it opens Dave up to copyright infringement issues.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 19, 2017, 04:34:19 pm
content: Quote from: iainwhite on November 19, 2017, 03:02:25 pmSort of yes. Ultimately the individual is responsible for what they post although it will hit Dave first and therefore yes I have removed it as it's safest all round.
Suggested circuits for photodiode/transistor to audio line-level? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2014, 02:25:22 pm
content: Can anyone suggest a simple circuit for hooking a photodiode/transistor to an audio line-level or microphone input?

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2014, 03:27:46 pm
content: Quote from: lpc32 on December 17, 2014, 02:25:22 pmConnect all leads to both the signal connectorand the ground.I have no idea whether that will do what you want - because you haven't bothered to state what you are trying to do!

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2014, 04:25:32 pm
content: Light intensity to voltage in line-level/microphone range. What else could it be?I want a quick way to look at some IR remote signals using parts I have handy. A photodiode or phototransistor plus the soundcard's ADC seem the simplest.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2014, 04:36:08 pm
content: Quote from: lpc32 on December 17, 2014, 04:25:32 pmWith a little imagination and a few moments thought, I could think of several.So, PSU voltage, illumination range, linearity, accuracy, logarithmic or linear, frequency?QuoteLooks like you've already determined your goole search terms.

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2014, 02:37:40 pm
content: Couldn't find something promising, particularly if the first criteria is no chance of damage to the sound input.
Suggestion for a triac and triac driver?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Voidugu
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2013, 08:14:23 pm
content: Do you people know of a standard triac able to handle at least 10 amps with a trigger current of no more than 50 mA and a suitable standard triac driver without zero crossing detection for it?Thanks loads people. Cheers

author: Paul Price
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2013, 11:29:54 pm
content: Try them, you'll like them!
Suggestion for Hakko fx-888d tips - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: AndreaEl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2014, 12:42:05 pm
content: I'm buying a new solder station, a genuine Hakko fx-888dAnd i see there are lots of tip but i can't spend more for tip that for station...I can buy 4-6 more tips but i not have lot of experience for decide in a lot of tip available. You have any suggestion for me?I use this soldering station for general use, of sure TH component and large SMD, but in future smaller SMD attract me. And some solder of heatsink and wire from 2,5mm2 to thin breadboard cable.It's a list of buyable tips for me(all is T18 series):BBLC1C2CF2equal at C2 BUT Tinned cut surface only.C3C4D08D12DL12D16D32IS4This cost a bit more (1,50€)C05C08DL2SBCF1Tinned cut surface only.

author: plug
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 21, 2014, 01:30:02 pm
content: If you don't have the money to spend, and your not sure of the tips that work best for you, then get the cheap Chinese tips. They will not last as long as the Hakko tips, but they they will do the job. I like the larger tips like the D32 or D16 myself. I even use those for most of my SMD work.I hope this helps.

author: dfmischler
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2014, 01:30:33 pm
content: Recommended Tips for Hakko FX-888

author: AndreaEl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2014, 02:03:34 pm
content: Quote from: dfmischler on January 21, 2014, 01:30:33 pmThanks a lot for the link, and sorry for double topic.Quote from: plug on January 21, 2014, 01:30:02 pmI have search on ebay for the price of this tips, but with "T-18 tip", "T18 tip" i find nothing, what you search for non-genuine tips?I think that i buy: C2, D12, D16, D32 + B that are in the soldering station.and i try some non-genuine tip for see if there are other good shape and if i like shape i buy it genuine.Thanks

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2014, 09:11:53 pm
content: Others mentioned a while back the 900M (50W) tips fit the same as the T18 (65W) series tips.Hakko has said in the past they aren't officially compatible, HakkoUSA has said they are. The originals will be higher quality and perhaps thermally a tighter fit. I've not see a side by side.You can find them by searching for Hakko Tips.http://www.ebay.com/itm/141154085973You can also pick up a clone Hakko FG-100 for about $10 if you want to test the temp of your fake tips on a fake soldering iron thermometer.

author: AndreaEl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 12:56:16 am
content: Quote from: Shock on January 21, 2014, 09:11:53 pmthe word "hakko tip" on ebay have open me a word, lot of very cheap fake tip with a lot of shape. Of sure i buy some for bad solder wire or condition where tip can damage.
Suggestions digital 4-20mA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2015, 06:22:51 am
content: 1. Hi I am looking for digitally controlled 4-20mA current output.Max voltage will be 24V dc , 16 bit , SPI based preferable.2. I have looked for xtr116 , but it has analog voltage control.DAC8750 seems to be Ok as it 16 bit & spi based.DAC8760 had added feature of voltage out so for me its not reuiredAD694 is very costly on digikey.3. Has anyone else worked on these. Any suggestions?

author: lapm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2015, 07:57:43 am
content: So whats wrong with DAC8750 you listed?

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2015, 11:03:40 am
content: pwm.
Suggestions for 3S battery management and charging circuit with discharge cutoff - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Remark
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2025, 07:23:24 pm
content: Hi everyone,We're working on a project where we need to manage and charge a 3S Li-ion battery pack. I'm looking for a solution that can be directly implemented into the development hardware, preferably something that includes:- Charging functionality with balancing for the 3S configuration.- Discharge cutoff to protect the batteries from over-discharge.also, the batteries will be placed inside soldered sockets.Does anyone know of any ICs or ready-to-use circuits/modules that could meet these requirements? Alternatively, are there any schematic designs or reference circuits you’d recommend? I'm open to either standalone ICs or integrated solutions.Any advice, part numbers, or design ideas would be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance!

author: tinymini
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2025, 12:13:02 pm
content: Disclaimer: I'm not a professional.A quicksearchon mouser leaded to TI'sBQ77915. This is a protection & balancing IC, so you'll want an external charger IC that works for 3S.As for why not all in a single chip, this might answer:https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/588900/why-dont-li-ion-battery-charger-ics-have-balance-charging-feature

author: squadchannel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2025, 01:12:33 pm
content: explain in the category of TI's battery management ICs,Battery charger ICs, as the name implies, only charge the battery. Protection to the battery is minimal.https://www.ti.com/battery-management/charger-ics/overview.htmlBattery monitors & balancers are the same ics as those built into laptop batteries and provide comprehensive protection for the battery.Protection against overdischarge, overcharge, overheating, tampering, etc. Charging functionality is not built in, charger IC is required.https://www.ti.com/battery-management/monitors-balancers/overview.htmlBattery protectors does not have a coulomb counter (fuel gauge) or tamper protection like laptop battery.but it provides the minimum necessary protection, protection against overcharge, overdischarge, and overheating.of course, a charge IC is required.https://www.ti.com/battery-management/protectors/overview.htmlIt depends on the functionality you require.
Suggestions for a quiet 120x32 Blower Fan - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Hootis Tigglebits
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2024, 03:15:15 pm
content: I'm looking for something comparably quite like a Noctua. The fan needs to have similar specs as the COMAIR ROTRON BD12B3 12VDC 90A 10.8W Blower Fan that the new one will replace.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2024, 03:50:50 pm
content: lol I modified the chassis to replace a blower with a noctua. lot of work but sometimes you can find blowers are used for no real god damn reason other then smaller vent holes. You might need some grating, plastic welding and a nibbler to make this mod safe.Honestly it seems like a way to go pure injection molded chassis, rather then having to install vent screens.analyze your system, you might get lucky. I am convinced they used a blower to1) not use a vent grating (smaller plastic holes). That is one less part to use, meaning cost savings, if you don't give a shit about your customers ears2) hide buzzing noise from PSU. sometimes they make a electric 'fire' noise that might scare consumers. best to mask that. because it sounds 'crackling'3) the word 'turbine' was used at a meeting to make it sound cooler then it really is. not a blower but a 'turbine fan' that brings it into the 22nd century!!!do a load test with a thermocouple before and after to see if it works good enough to maintain low temps at critical points
Suggestions for application of High voltage cap. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Radeongas
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 16, 2018, 09:41:32 pm
content: Any suggestions for an application for these caps? Got two of them but unsure what I can use them for. Bonus points if it's something with RF.Edit: Wrong section, trying to move it. sorry

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2018, 09:44:42 pm
content: Uh... what's the rest of it look like?If it's a heavy metal box with large studs, it may be pulse rated. Not quite enough for a quarter shrinker IIRC, but a few of them together, perhaps?Tim

author: Radeongas
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 16, 2018, 09:47:00 pm
content: It was used in old analog TV transmitters. Shaped like a cereal box with roughly the same size, two protruding poles with ceramic insulator. The caps are in a garage a couple miles from my location, I had a third but it spilled about 1-2 liters of fluid everywhere and I did not want to drive with the rest because of their fragility.

author: Vtile
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2018, 09:52:56 pm
content: Transformer oil..
Suggestions for power supply for mobile/laptop repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Mr. Robot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 29, 2017, 08:43:36 am
content: HiI do basic mobile and laptop repair for friends, like replacing ports, screens and such. I'd like to go a bit further and practice with logic board repair.I'd like to get a power supply in order to detect shorted components by injecting current to the board the find the heat source.Is there a specific type of power supply that is needed for this kind of task? Any suggestion on a particular model?Thanks

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 30, 2017, 12:29:59 am
content: Welcome y bienvenido! Response for most questions would not have such delay.. Perhaps Mr. Robot as a screen name was not the best choice.. Folks around here like to help out humans. On the other hand, it could also be an error to assume short circuits cause higher levels of heat than normal. I think this may be what you are after,so check here.For info on using this technique for finding some faults, you could watch some videosorthese.

author: Mr. Robot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 30, 2017, 07:23:15 am
content: Hola CliffThanks for your answer and your links. I'm definitely a human, or at least that is what my mum saysI'll had a look at those links. In any case, do you believe that there is a need for a special kind of power supply?Cheers

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 30, 2017, 11:33:17 am
content: I wouldn't call it a power supply, it's a current source passing known current through low resistance areas until the lowest is found by measuring minuscule voltage drops. I'm not a fan of this method and I wouldn't go poking around in 3.3v logic areas around expensive QFP's without verifying pinout's first. A few times I've tried cutting traces on power rails to isolate areas to measure changes in Vcc, but on a laptop, no way if it's not mine.There's a board level guy called Louis Rossmann, who has a few videos:https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=louis+rossmann+finding+shortsSince you mentioned heat, this one in particular may help:https://youtu.be/t5fICjcaJ3E