Which multimeter you use and why - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Arnen
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 30, 2019, 08:41:24 am
content: Good day.I´d like to ask you which multimeter do you use and why? Which multimeter would you recommend me? Are you satisfied with him?I found that Aneng AN870 is very recommended. But is it a reliable device?I'd like to fit in $25.Thanks

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2019, 10:31:48 am
content: Here's a technical review by someone who has reviewed a lot of multimeters:https://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMAnengAN870%20UK.htmlConclusions are:QuoteThe main issues are:QuoteHowever, most multimeters (even the expensive bench meters) don't measure currents above 10A anyway.

author: windsmurf
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2019, 08:33:15 am
content: I use the multimeter I find closest to me with leads already plugged inWhy? Because its more convenient

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2019, 10:16:26 am
content: I use a Fluke 77.I've had it for years, & it still works, so why would I change for something dumb that does silly tricks like powering down in mid reading as some newer DMMs I've used do?

author: cowasaki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2019, 07:53:44 pm
content: Most of us will have several multimeters. You often need two at the same time. It really depends on WHAT you are doing. If you are mainly working on microprocessors and stuff like that then pretty much any multimeter will have the required options and be accurate enough. If you are working of certain other circuits then greater accuracy or range will be required. Going back about 5 years I had a UNI-T 81 and another "whatever" brand. I then bought a Philips PM2525 bench meter and quickly a Keithley 2100 followed that. When I am working on digital stuff the UNI-T is absolutely good enough but I've started messing with amps and other analogue stuff where the Keithley is brilliant. I think Dave did a review of that Aneng but I might be wrong. I absolutely would NOT believe any of the protection specs on anything that isn't a top brand and also remember that they only apply when used with the supplied or better leads. Also don't readily trust anything off Ebay as there are a hell of a lot of copies!

author: Kilrah
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 31, 2019, 08:00:51 pm
content: Quote from: vk6zgo on August 31, 2019, 10:16:26 amEspecially Fluke ones ironically...Most DMMs reset their timeout counter when the reading changes significantly, but the stupid Fluke we have at work doesn't. We can be measuring continuity on a bunch of wires without ever looking at the screen, beeping a connection, and it literally turns off the next second if its stupid auto power off timeout is gone. Can't count the number of occasions someone was trying to troubleshoot an issue by beeping wires, and suddenly no beep "HA, there's our problem" and lost 5-10 minutes looking all over that connection that ends up looking all good before noticing the freaking POS DMM had turned itself off

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2019, 03:50:38 am
content: Quote from: Kilrah on August 31, 2019, 08:00:51 pmYes, I include newer Flukes in the "something dumb" category.If, back in the 1980s, they could design a meter which could detect the difference between activity & non activity, & prevent the "energy saving" switchoff, why can't they do so, now?Other meters? The UNI-T ones we used at the same place which had the newer Fluke, also had the "turn off whenever it felt like it" function, but still went through batteries as if they were going out of fashion.Another delight with those, was when a failing battery, without warning, caused their resistance ranges to read incorrectly ---- well before the "battery warning" came up!On one occasion, an incorrect (higher value) resistor had been fitted to a new assembly, which then failed to operate under test.The local "experts" checked it with a UNI-T, & it read somewhere close to what you would expect, so they started to "flail around" looking for other causes.The resistor, which was supposed to be 15k, looked from what I could see of the colour code, to be a 27k, so I hung the Fluke 77 across it.It looked just like you would expect of a 27K resistor in that circuit position!Now I had to convince the "geniuses" that their DMM was wrong.They denigrated my old "77", but when I pulled a new 27k out of the store & measured it with both meters, had to grudgingly admit "I just might have something" in what I was saying!"The moral for would be technical "experts"--------if you don't want to be shown up as fools, don't employ experienced people!

author: Cyberdragon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2019, 06:30:56 am
content: Ideals will do that too, but at least they beep shortly beforehand. Just so right when the middle of holding the probes with one hand and an adjustment tool in the other you get to scream "DON'T YOU DARE!" *poof* "@&#$!!!"The one I have also has a failing rotary switch and the plastic body appears to be ultrasonic welded.(unless there are clips) Though I have a few VTVMs and old bench meters (one unfortunately is missing the resistance and current modules, so volts only).

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 01, 2019, 11:59:47 am
content: The answer is that it depends.On the bench I have an old Data Precision 3500 that is normally what's used for voltage and resistance checks. There's an even older HP 3440A I usually use to monitor current draw, and occasionally for voltage too if I need a second for that and the 3500 is already occupied.For handhelds, it's either the Fluke 77-II I bought new some time in the 90s or a 27/FM purchased as mil surp on eBay a few years ago when a bunch of them showed up there. My preference there is whichever one is closest to hand when I need it.-Pat

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 10:51:31 pm
content: Any reason this thread isn't in the test equipment forum? It doesn't belong in general chat.

author: Mr. Scram
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 11:19:05 pm
content: Quote from: Kilrah on August 31, 2019, 08:00:51 pmMany Flukes allow turning off the power off function by pressing and holding a specific button when you turn on the meter. P OFF will be displayed and the meter won’t time out. Refer to your manual for the button to push.

author: Mortymore
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2019, 11:52:32 pm
content: Quote from: Kilrah on August 31, 2019, 08:00:51 pmJust curious... What "stupid" Fluke model is that?The only multimeter "absolutely stupid" that I have to deal with, is actually also at my work. An Amprobe 530-EUR, that goes off after some 15 minutes no matter what. I just does not have a way to disable the "auto power off" , and is so dumb that it doesn't even care if you are recording something. It will go off after 15 minutes.About the multimeter i use the most, it's an old Fluke 87. Why?... it's always in the bench with some leads attached, ready to power ON.In the garage the most used is a Fluke 75, were i don't need a True RMS multimeter. It's were I do the dirty hardware stuff.PS: As a recommendation around $25, I suggest you take a look at some variant of the Uni-T UT136. In the cheaper range I like Uni-T.