hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Suggestions for GPS  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: radhika
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 04:26:05 pm
content: Hi,I want to add GPS in some product. I am looking for smallest GPS, which have inbuilt antenna and internet, so that I could locate the coordinate.If you have idea, which GPS will "skyleader- GPS tracking device" use?I tried to look and found nano OriginGPS Spider module. Its smallest but, it didnt have inbuilt antena or internet.Thanks In advance.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2020, 12:07:56 am
content: you have many ublox modules on the web for a very low price, you can connect them in usb mode but eventually you will need an antenna, the smallest i've seen are around 1.5 cm square in size, you can search for usb gps dongle on Ebay, everything is encapsulated ? as low as 9$ usd ?like this ?https://www.ebay.com/itm/VK-162-G-mouse-USB-GPS-Dongle-for-Window-10-7-Raspberry-Pi-Linux-Google-Earth/172624943878?Oh you need gps trackinghttps://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20200507161342&SearchText=gps+trackerNormally a gps tracker will memorise the route(s) and you'll have to dump the contents in your computerUnless you use a tracker with cellular gsm gprs connectivity to see in real time ... you need to put a activated / paid sim card in it ....like this onehttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000203624651.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.61103051OPpkMo&algo_pvid=98479574-3789-4f55-829e-e75c7be95580&algo_expid=98479574-3789-4f55-829e-e75c7be95580-18&btsid=0ab6f82c15888971851538817ef11d&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

author: radhika
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2020, 10:05:30 am
content: Hi, Thanks for the text.I looked to your suggested GPS. I not looking for already designed GPS. I am looking for a chip, I google it, I found OriginGPS spider chip,but it dont have antenna.Actually I want to add this chip to some gadget which is so small and thin. Approximately 3cm 2cm . So I am looking for a nano GPS with antenna and gprs/wifi.If you know such chip, I like to know that.Thanks
Suggestions for Li-ion 3S battery pack manufacturers?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: J_C_C
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 11, 2022, 11:28:42 pm
content: Hi Guys,I'm trying to build up a list potential manufacturers of Li-ion battery pack.Little more on the application:- Have a 14-16W device that I'm looking to power for 2-3hrs.- Would like the recharge time to be roughly the same as nominal discharge time.- Want to get probably a 3S 18650 pack, with OVP/OCP and other battery management stuffs, made certified and ready to go into a custom enclosure.Currently, I've found one company which provides the kind of service that I'm after. (websitehttp://www.zcfbattery.com)Does anyone have experience with these guys? Or have other suggestions?Would be in the 10,000-ish unit quantity ballpark.Kind regards,J_C_C

author: buta
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2022, 10:08:11 am
content: https://www.master-instruments.com.au/We bought 3S 18650 from them but could not recall the details.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2022, 11:31:12 am
content: Master Instruments are great and can be competitive on brand name cells they import compared to importing your own. I have been buying Sanyo and Panasonic from them for decades prior to LiPo's being a thing in R/C and generally orders from 100-4 or 5k cell orders at times. By the time we looked at importing costs, delivery schedules and backup well worth the tiny difference in price in that case (talking 10-12 years ago+ for the last serious orders). The International LiPo market for R/C they never took seriously so we went elsewhere but I still use them for specials.Well worth a go for prototyping or start up quantities for a start and see how they go from there.Every man and their dog in China will promise lots but most are also not 'manufacturers' in spite of what their sites claim so take all of that with a bucket of salt.

author: J_C_C
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 15, 2022, 08:45:07 pm
content: Thanks for the recommendation guys,I've reached out to MasterInstruments. It will be interesting to see what they can offer
Suggestions for mains backplane - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ricko_uk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2020, 09:10:48 pm
content: Hi,are there lows cost connectors that are suitable for mains (up to 2A max) that are used in backplane type applications similar to the PC cards plugging into the PC motherboards? i.e. mains modules plugged at 90 degrees to a flat backplane supplying/distributing the mains to the modules?Initially I was thinking to use edge connector types (exactly like the PCs) but they would not have creepage and clearance for mains voltage. Any other solutions?I came across some similar ones rated for mains and high currents and that could do the job but are quite expensive. I am looking for some that can be used in consumer products (i.e. relatively low cost).Thank you

author: radar_macgyver
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2020, 09:50:53 pm
content: The DIN 41612 connector series has a high-power/high-current version that is rated for 230V use (type H). They are usable upto 15A. For example:Harting 09 06 215 2821.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2020, 09:58:00 pm
content: Any shrouded style headers will do -- Molex Mini-Fit Jr. comes to mind, and a half dozen more by Molex and others.Quote from: radar_macgyver on September 27, 2020, 09:50:53 pmDang, that's a nice one.Tim
Suggestions for making the safest Smartphone charger from a 6S Li ion battery  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: MikeLemon
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2018, 10:52:49 am
content: Hello,So I've a beefy 6S battery I want to turn into a portable power station that will include phone chargers but I'm concerned that simply hooking it up to a step down power supply at 5V and connect it straight to an output usb port is not the right way to do it as the step down component may fail/ provide too much current to the charged device and simply destroy it.I imagine that sort of circuit that includes over voltage and current protection for the output device to prevent catastrophic failure.Any suggestions?Thanks in advance.

author: ilukester
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2018, 10:04:29 pm
content: Not exactly sure how you want to go about something like this, however my first thought was using a powertool adapter. Kobalt 24v batteries are 6s and they make a dual USB output with 3.4A max. It does seem to have some protection circuitry. I can tear my open and take some pictures if you like.https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-24-Volt-Max-Power-Tool-Battery-Charger/1000259305
Suggestions for power tool batteries - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AndyC_772
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 06:02:13 pm
content: Hi,I'm not really all that into DIY, so whenever I go to use my power screwdriver (an old B&D KC9036) I inevitably find it's gone flat and is useless. It has 3x NiCd cells in it and one of them has now failed short circuit.I was about to buy some new batteries to put in it, but it occurs to me that they'll probably just go the same way, and so I could just be throwing good money after bad. Doing up half a dozen screws at a time followed by a long period of neglect and inactivity isn't going to be good for any battery. It's debatable whether I really need the tool at all, but I was quite glad of it when I bought a new shed a few weeks ago. Or at least, I would have been if it had been working properly.So, I'm open to suggestions as to what I might replace the batteries with. The original cells are "4/5 C" sized with tabs, which I was surprised to find are actually quite readily available in both NiCd and NiMh flavours. Since the motor is designed for 3.6V I might get away with fitting a Li-ion cell instead, if I can find one that will fit the space inside the handle. Or maybe I should just fit a socket and use it with a mains power adapter.I'd prefer to keep the total cost below the price of a new screwdriver - about £25 buys this year's equivalent model which has a Li-ion battery. That price has to include, of course, a new charger if I change to a different battery chemistry - unless I can use a lab power supply. (Charging a £25 screwdriver with an Agilent 6632B might, in some circles, be regarded as overkill - and not actually all that appropriate either).
Suggestions for project (AM/FM radio with amplifier) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: pi_flyer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 20, 2017, 03:54:26 pm
content: All,Background:I've been tinkering with an Si4703 FM tuner evaluation board from Sparkfun for some time now. I have have a decent understanding of how to interface it using a Raspberry Pi. Anyway, this board only has provision for FM and output for headphones - with the FM antenna built into the headphone wires.Regardless, the time spent with the Si4703 has me wanting to do more!Problem statement:I want AM/FM, and I also want a board with a built in amp to run some small speakers (2 ~ 3 Watt). The AM/FM part is pretty simple, as within the SI47xx family, there are other IC's that provide AM. Particularly I'm settled in on the SI4731.https://www.silabs.com/documents/public/data-sheets/Si4730-31-D50.pdfQuestions:1. The SI4731 has audio output as both analog or i2s to choose from. Depending on which output to use, will make a decision about the direction the amp I think. Which direction do you think I should go and why?2. Do I want a class D amplifier? If yes, why?3. Some of the amplifier ICs have communications capabilities such as i2c to change volume or mute, and others are simpler and just have a gain setting with a resistor. Given the Si4731 has volume control itself is it better to use that instead of the amplifier with i2c volume control?4. If I use a simple amplifier with a fixed gain, and the volume control from the Si4731 - will there be more problems with hissing noise at low volume settings?
Suggestions for project (Radio with amp) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Nickfury671955
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 14, 2019, 10:02:56 am
content: Hello everyone! We are Humpine. We provide products to serve the needs of all people, all ages across the globe. Humpine’s products include quilts, shoes, bags, doormats and so on. You can visit our online store at this link:https://humpine.com/product-category/quilts-blankets/kantha/As you know, Kantha is a type of embroidery craft in the eastern regions of the Indian subcontinent, specifically in Bangladesh and in the Indian states of West Bengal, Tripura and Odisha. Kantha stitching is also used to make simple quilts, commonly known as Nakshi Kantha. Women in Bengal typically use old saris and cloth and layer them with kantha stitching to make a light blanket, throw, or bedspread, especially for children. Kantha is very popular with tourists visiting the Bengal region of the Indian subcontinent.With Kantha motifs, we have produced the most spectacular orange-yellow Kantha quilts - you can seehere. Humpine uses 100% natural fabrics and the designs we research to create, the best quality products towards environmental friendliness and users. Let's see some pictures ofKantha quilts:AHumpine Kantha quiltWe offer all the sizes - from Queen to California King Quilts. And the design options are where the magic happens. We’re having a load of possibilities for you to choose from and we also offer worldwide shipping service.For more details, please visit:https://humpine.com/product-category/quilts-blankets/kantha/Thank you for your visiting!#kantha #quilt #humpine
Suggestions for routing large number of differential traces - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: EEjl2020
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 30, 2020, 05:23:46 pm
content: Hello all,I am designing a second iteration of a PCB that is supposed to be essentially a dumb switch that's only purpose is to route signals and have minimal effect on them. My first iteration had only 8 RJ45 ports and supported 10Mbps and 100 Mbps, my second board has 42 ports and has 4 differential signals which means I need 8 differential traces per port, this brings the differential traces to 336 traces.I'm trying to implement a 40x40 nonblocking crosspoint switch which seems like one of the better options for the high amount of traces I have but that only supports about 5 ports and I was having trouble finding a Crosspoint that supported more traces. I know I can make an array of these crosspoint switches to handle the routing but I wasnt sure if there were better options or suggestions people might have? I also looked into DPDT switches but those dont seem like they would help much. Ive been struggling to figure out what the best option would be and would appreciate any suggestions or help as I dont have a crazy amount of experience desigining PCBs. I would like to avoid the array because the crosspoint I want to use isnt the cheapest. Thanks in advance for any help I'm kind of stuck as of now and would appreciate any and all advice.
Suggestions for smartphone camera lens - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: vgamesx1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 11, 2020, 04:51:39 am
content: Basically I don't plan on buying a nice microscope or anything in the near future but I could use something to help me see and I noticed that although it's purely digital zoom my phone gives a decent image, I haven't tried working under it yet but I've taken some closeups and the main problem is of course at that level of zoom it gets a little fuzzy, not awful or unusable if you have good light but can anyone recommend some inexpensive lens for smartphones?A 2x-5x macro would probably be perfect, preferably I'd like a set of them but I've looked and nobody appears to sell a set of just macro lenses.
Suggestions needed for coplanar board to board connectors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: satyamfifa
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2022, 05:46:58 am
content: Hey All,I am looking for coplanar PCB to PCB connectors for a project. The idea is that one module which will be about 400 to 500 mm in length can be mounted on the wall, and another module of same size can be connected underneath it, and another one underneath that one and so on. To be clear it would be nice if the second and third module could be hang from the first module without having the need to have them seperately mounted. I think 20 contacts in total will be enough, my idea is to have two connectors on each side. current capablity of 3 to 4 Amps is more than enough, and I also don't need high speed signals, half a megahertz clock max. So I think my main focus is on load bearing capability and duralibility of the connector. It will be nice if the connectors had some push/press or squeeze to release type of mechanism.I would appreaciate some suggestions or concerns regarding the concept.Kind Regards,Sparsh
Suggestions on HV protection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gaddra
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2015, 07:20:35 pm
content: I'm currently working on a MEMS driver with an output of 0-230V on 128 channels (using the HV256). The high level system looks like this:Each XMP has 64x 0V to 4.096V DAC channels connected to the HV amplifier.The HV amplifier and each XMP will have isolated 12V power inputs, however the amplifier is not isolated from the XMP's.I was wondering what the best way to protect the XMP's in case of mishap on the HV amplifier- it's much more preferable to damage the amplifier than the XMP's.

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2015, 09:51:50 pm
content: I'm guessing you meanthis HV256, but what are these XMPs? Are they going to be on the same board as the HV256, or separate modules?Presumably the worst case failure would be the high voltage supply being applied to one of the DAC channels, right? If you're going to use the full current output capability of all 128 channels of the HV256s your HV supply needs to be capable of around 100mA, right? you could protect each DAC channel with a pair of rail clamp diodes and a series resistor (standard overvoltage protection). Except that to keep the dissipation in the resistor below, saw, 1/4W, with the output shorted to 230V, you need a resistance of 225K to limit the current through the resistor to 1mA. What does that do to your signal integrity in normal operation? You'd have to balance the amount of power dissipation you're willing to tolerate/able to fit on the PCB against your output impedance requirements. You could put a fuse in series with a lower value resistor, but the lowest current commonly available SMD fuse AFAIK is 50mA, which means briefly dissipating 11.5W.Another option would be to detect when one of the DAC channels encounters an overvoltage fault and shut down the HV supply to limit the duration of the fault.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2015, 12:59:26 am
content: Don't clamp to the power supply! Most regulators cannot sink current. Use (low leakage) transzorbs or zeners instead.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2015, 01:03:10 am
content: I prefer to clamp to the supply, and use a big TVS there instead. If nothing else, all inputs will be clamped to the same level. I like consistency. I suppose this will save cost as well, since clamp diodes are cheaper.Tim

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2015, 05:11:26 am
content: Quote from: ajb on January 03, 2015, 09:51:50 pmA depletion mode MOSFET could do it with a couple of K.
Suggestions on modding a bluetooth soundbar? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: bitwelder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2015, 05:10:33 am
content: I have a relatively cheap bluetooth soundbar, which works OK but its cheapness shows in the reception range, which is only a few meters.I haven't tried yet to open it and check what's inside, but I wonder, is it possible to do something simple to improve its range, e.g. by adding an external antenna?
Suggestions on waterproofing a banana jack? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AndrewM
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2020, 07:32:11 pm
content: I need a way to get a banana jack sticking through the side of a box, such that water cannot get into the box. If the banana jack connection itself gets wet (between the jack and the cable/plug), that's not a big deal - this is just an on/off switch signal at ~3V.Ideas?Suggestions on what to use, how to mount it through the box, and how to keep it watertight? Preferably a jack I can buy through Digikey, as I'm getting the rest of the parts through there.At this point I'm thinking of any sort of sealed jack, and just sealing the hole on the inside of the box with a bunch of silicone. Unless someone has a better idea.Edit: I'll add a clarification. This isn't guaranteed to get wet, but it will be outdoors, and might get rained or snowed on. I might add some sort of overhang or shroud to the box to try to keep as much water out as possible in such a situation.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2020, 02:31:44 am
content: I don't know if these are waterproof. But, they look like the back is just a stud.Jacks that are threaded with nuts would probably work also.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33052273285.html?spm=2114.search0302.3.22.46f83382sKy2eY&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_0,searchweb201603_0,ppcSwitch_0&algo_pvid=666d0524-20aa-4f2b-a630-19550d5ad79e&algo_expid=666d0524-20aa-4f2b-a630-19550d5ad79e-3

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2020, 02:35:57 am
content: Look at catalogs carefully. I think a lot of banana jacks are actually sealed to the outside, assuming we aren’t talking about underwater use.Many machined banana jacks would be waterproof by nature, provided a bit of sealant around the plastic. (Watch out: many have a small hole drilled in the side, presumably to prevent suction from making it hard to remove plugs. This applies to many of the otherwise suitable Stäubli jacks in the catalog below.) Bear in mind that pretty much any safety banana jack that surface-mounts using a bolt will likely be OK, since those rarely consist of a threaded tube.Take a look also at the various threaded adapters that exist, like these:https://www.digikey.com/products/en/connectors-interconnects/terminals-adapters/405It’d be fairly easy to gasket one of those.Stäubli makes one jack that is IP67 rated when an optional cap is used, the XUB-G, on page 107 ofhttps://www.staubli.com/en/file/23528.show

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2020, 02:42:26 am
content: Pomona 4995 says this: “Silicone rubber O-rings provide water resistant seal when mounted in panels from 0.062in to 0.125in (15.75mm to 3.18mm) thick.”As I said, you need to look at some catalogs. Methinks you haven’t done enough legwork on your own yet, AndrewM.
Suggestions on wiring a sliding switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2013, 06:00:23 pm
content: I'd like to use a sliding switch with several positions to switch between several resistor values in a project. Basically, think of it as changing the resistor value to adjust a linear regulator's output voltage.So basically the slide switch has to make the connection between GROUND and a resistor and a special case, where between ground and the slide switch there's already a trimmer pot, so the slide switch has to connect the trimmer to the regulator.So:GROUND - SWITCH - TRIMMER - REGULATORGROUND - SWITCH - RESISTOR - REGULATORThese are the resistors I'd like to use, based on the formula 1.25v ( 1 + R / 120) :1.25v - 6.45v : trimmer ( 0 - 500 ohm)1.8v : 53 ohm (maybe 33 ohm + 20 ohm in series)2.5v : 120 ohm3.3v : 197 ohm (maybe 47ohm + 150 ohm in series)5.0v : 360 ohmThe problem I have is that the only sliding switch allowing me so many choices i could find is wired the following way, making two independent connections, one on each side:A B C D E F-----___P Q R S T UPosition 1: AB , PQPosition 2: BC , QR...Position 5: EF, TUYou get the idea.In theory it should be simple, just alternating between sides should get me what I want ... AB, QR, CD, ST, TU but the trimmer pot is screwing everything since that can be a short (0 ohm)I'm playing around with how to wire this but I was wondering if any of you guys have been through this already or have some suggestions (keeping it simple).I'm starting to think that I may have to take advantage of the two connections to do some resistors in parallel/series playing but it gets messy.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2013, 06:36:34 pm
content: IMO forget the slide switch and use a 5 position rotary with enough poles to do what you need.

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2013, 06:45:17 pm
content: It is easier with the POT next to the 5v position.A to F common, resistors from pin to GNDP = POTQ = nothingR = 360RS = 680R//1k2T = 270R//430RU = 150R//160ROops - the switch isn't as I first read it to be. I assumed the wipers were connected. Back to the drawing board.Back from the drawing board....Ground pins B, E, S, resistors on pinsA = POTC = 53R (56R//910R)R = 120RT = 197R (240R//1k1)F = 360RThe switch will be break before make which gives you maximum unregulated output between positions - probably not good.
Suggestions to high temp connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Ghydda
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2018, 08:36:06 am
content: Hi gang,I am in the process of specifying an automated test rig for populated PCBs.The rig will occasionally or even regularly go into a temperature chamber, hence I am in need of some connectors (panel mounted sockets, cable mounted plugs) that can handle a wide temperature range.I need at least 150 degC, but preferably 180 degC.As I have numerous test points (up to 200) and a few power connections to transport in and out of the temp. chamber porthole, I need a 20-30 pole connector (low current signalling) and a 3 pole connector (mains or battery power).There is always circular MIL spec connectors to fall back on to, but they cost more than an arm and a leg combined- there must be some industrial types, which can handle the job too.I do not care if they are circular or square or triangle shaped, as long as the mating of the plug into socket can be securely fastened.Any suggestions?Cheers!

author: mc172
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2018, 08:54:24 am
content: I just attacked one of those green Phoenix Contacts headers with a soldering iron and it's good at 200 °C.

author: Ghydda
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2018, 12:39:33 pm
content: Well it has to be, since it must survive a wave soldering process.Long term though, not so much. The plastic will out-gas and become brittle.But points for the hands on approachCheers!

author: kosine
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2018, 06:05:55 pm
content: They're not that cheap, but Harting connectors are widely used in the injection moulding industry. (For connecting hot runner systems, which as the name suggests, get quite warm for long periods of time.)http://www.harting-usa.com/products-markets/harting-usacom/hanr-industrial-connectors11265/hoods-and-housings/han-inoxr_15807/Inside they're just crimp terminals, so if you're really on a budget you could perhaps make something yourself by drilling holes into a suitable high temp material.Another option might be to run a stripboard style PCB through the case and use an external edge connector.
Suicide door Automation  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Redz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 09:40:41 pm
content: Good day all,I'm very new to electronics! ( I think i took it in grade...Passed. i work in a steel shop and like to think im very Handy.My project is something i rely on every day, I worry it will fail and i will be stuck with not being able to repair myself.Because i am wheelchair Bound ( ATV accident ) i have a driver's seat that comes out of my 2018 Ram 1500 lowers enough so i can transfer to it from my manual chair.the back door opens backwards and a lift comes out for my chair to be lifted into the cab thenI close the door remotlySo here is where my question comes in.The actuator that opens and closes the back door is remote and has no limit switches. the system does not have the capability for LS . Because of this the C pillar gets Cracks if the actuator is extended too faror in too far.I would like to find a better system ..i'm thinking a motor to spin an arm a certain degree ? A new actuator with control that will allow manual switches also?here are some pictures ... I don't have much space between the actuator and the chair when loading about ...1.25" It would be good to have a reasonable control that i can work with

author: Simmed
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 10:21:30 pm
content: dont these things need to be inspected and approved by someone qualified for safety reasons?

author: PCB.Wiz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 10:34:42 pm
content: Quote from: Redz on August 28, 2025, 09:40:41 pmThose actuators usually must have some internal limit switches, otherwise they do not know when to stop.See image attached, which shows two reed? switch sensors.A quick check on Ali shows they come in 50mm increments so given your work in a steel shop, you are lucky your problem looks to be more mechanical than electrical : You need to match the door swing, with the actual actuator travel.I think a bracket (with rubber bushes for the last-mm tolerance?), that can adjust fore-aft can move thatchange of distanceto exactly match your actuatorThe reed switches used in these have some variance, so you should measure the actuator you will use to get sub-mm numbers.

author: Redz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 03:41:51 pm
content: I do understand its a safety concern .. but this was sent out with no limit to the stroke of the actuator. if the C piller cracks bad enough the door will fall off.

author: Redz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 03:43:31 pm
content: This is a hydroworks Actuator , Im not able to find any info on it as far as adjustments to LS
Suitable 1.1V @ 12A buck converter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2021, 01:04:00 pm
content: Hello,I am doing a PSU design for my product right now. I need 1.1v @ 12A buck regulator from 5v input (from Recom AC-DC module).I currently have this one: TPS56C230RJER it seems good enough but I wanted a better one in terms of price and switching frequency. I prefer price to be < 2$ @ 100 quantity. Also, prefer high frequency to have better ripple and noise output (prefer < 10mvP-P) and smaller inductor (2.2uH is currently used in board). this one is at 2.8$ at 100 quantity with 500 khz switching frequency.I have the following candidates based on my search:1- MIC24056:switching frequency is 600 khz, price is 1.8$. brand is good and footprints exist.2- AOZ2263AQI-10This one is from AOZ which is, according to my reading and little experience, not a top brand. Switching frequency calculation seems not straightforward. Footprint is not available, making one in kicad (or any other package) is a big pain. price is very good at about 1.08$ at 100 quantity. Pricing is based on Digikey BTW.Extra info:I have 1v, 1.5v, 1.8v, 2.5v, and 3.3v rails which are ranging from few 100s of mA to 3A. The part I chosen for all of these is AP3441SHE-7B which is about 0.22$ for one IC at 500 quantity. it uses the same 2.2uH inductor from LCSC which is also cheap.Another question which is relatively close to this: should I be using normal 1% resistors from LCSC for setting the voltage or should I get 0.1% ones?thanks

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2021, 07:01:45 am
content: Right now I kinda settled on the MIC part unless I see otherwise, but no one suggested anything yet.Making a footprint is a pain for me but I may go for it if it fits.

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2021, 07:09:22 am
content: I have found this footprint:https://www.snapeda.com/parts/AOZ2255LQI-30/Alpha%20&%20Omega%20Semiconductor%20Inc./view-part/it is identical to #2 suggested IC, seems good.I am hoping for someone who tried AOZ buck regulators to inform me of his experience.on another side, I plan to use YAGO LCSC 1% resistors everywhere in the design including output voltage setting resistors... is there any danger doing so?
suitable amplifier type to power LO ports - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: john23
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2025, 07:46:07 am
content: Hello ,I need to choose an amplifier to power an LO port of two mixers with 17dBm power level at 10GHz without he following datasheets:for this purpose I need to choose and amplifier with at least P1dB of 21dBm .one amplifier is VGA (voltage regulated gain amplifier) and the other is a driver type.What does it mean driver type amplifier does it fit to power the LO ports of my mixers?mixers:MM1-0320HSM-2_GaAs Double-Balanced MixerThe MM1-0320HSM is a passive GaAs double balanced MMIC mixer suitable for both up and down-conversion applications. As with all Marki Microwave mixers, it features excellent conversion loss, isolation and spurious performance across a broad bandwidth and in a small form factor. The MM1-0320HSM...markimicrowave.com markimicrowave.comhttps://www.custommmic.com/resources/cmd258c4_ver_1.0_1017.pdfamplifiers:1. VGA typehttp://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/hmc996.pdf2.driver typehttp://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/hmc608.pdf

author: jwet
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2025, 05:43:15 pm
content: My non expert opinion, seeing that you got no responses.Either would work certainly. The driver amp is overkill for an LO amp. A driver amp is designed to be in the power output path of a radio, close to the PA. At these frequencies and at its power level, it could be the PA. It's provides more power than you need but is ok. Its kind of a power hog. (3x of the VGA) The VGA's P1 db of 21 db gives you a little headroom and would do well at 17. You don't need the VGA function but its probably a better fit overall than the driver amp. The output RL of the VGA is kind of going to pot at 10G. Mixers can be a tough load. Maybe the driver amp would be best for this reason.

author: radar_macgyver
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2025, 08:22:55 pm
content: Use two drivers, one per mixer. This will improve the channel isolation. Once the max power requirement is reduced, you could use something like the HMC451 - much simpler to use (and cheaper) than the other devices. Add a 1 dB attenuator between the LO buffer output and the mixer LO port to improve the matching.

author: Gerhard_dk4xp
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2025, 08:49:46 pm
content: I have used the HMC-451 with the HMC-220 mixer with quite good results.Just saw that the hmc220 is EOL, still available but you want a single sideband mixer anyway.
Suitable board to board connectors - Gigabit ethernet + misc GPIO and Power - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2019, 07:17:03 pm
content: I'm lookign for a connect that is suitable for connecting the differnetial pairs of gigabit ethernet (Phy side) across. I need to do at least pairs. The use case is a processor daughter board that sits on a mother board. The PCB requirements for the processor board vs the motherboard make it very difficult to built it as a single pcb.

author: Scrts
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2019, 08:17:40 pm
content: Quote from: mrpackethead on January 21, 2019, 07:17:03 pmBefore going ahead with the recommendations, you probably understand that it's a very bad idea in terms of EMC? The gigabit lines are strong and emit left and right...
Suitable DC-DC Regulator for VCORE and  DDR3L VDDS_DDR - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: IIOSOH
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 09, 2021, 01:22:57 am
content: Hello everyone,I already asked this question in the "AskElectronics" subreddit, so some of you might have already seen it but here it goes:I am working on an open source STM32MP1 SOM module but have some troubles finding a suitable DC-DC Step Down Regulator for the DDR3L and VCORE power rails.Could any of you recommend me an IC that meets the criteria from the photo but preferably with 1% output voltage accuracy, 2.5A+ max output current, small footprint (since i only have around 200 mm2 for each regulator) and last but not least - be able to actually order it from somewhere.The plan is to use a separate regulator of the same type for each real so the output voltage has to be adjustable. VTT and DDR_Vref will be derived from a separate ICThe ST evaluation board uses the "TLV62090" but it is out of stock everywhere, so i am looking at the TPS53311 since Digikey has 80k+ of them but i'm not sure if it's suitable for such applications.Other options i've considered:MIC22601SC173MLTRTISL8014aISL8013RAA207704GBMI went through hundreds of datasheets the past few days, but am now completely lost and confused. I have never done such a complex project on my own since i usually do mostly the layouts.The idea behind this project of mine is to learn and document everything while doing so, and then to open source everything after verifying that the board is working correctly, so i would be really grateful if anyone could help me choose a part that suits my needs or lets me know what i need to look out for when choosing a DC-DC Reg for VCore / VDDS_DDR applications, what can be compromised with etc. etc.Regards,I. Iliev
Suitable replacement for DLIS-4K linear image sensor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sokr4t3s
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 25, 2015, 04:50:28 pm
content: For a hobby project (laser rangefinding using triangulation), I'm trying to get hold of a linear CCD sensor that has two specific properties:a) high frame rate (4000+)b) high resolution (>3kpx)I found Panavision's DLIS-4K, but after contacting their sales found out that they'll ship me the 20$ DLIS-4K for a mere 180$ in shipping/handling. So now I'm looking for alternatives -- either an alternative supplier, or a completely different IC.Could anyone point me to a similar chip? I've seen Hamamatsu's (http://www.hamamatsu.com/us/en/4214.html) and Toshiba's (http://www.toshiba.com/taec/Catalog/Line.do?lineid=900041&familyid=900039), but neither have fast enough frame rates..I'm open to any suggestions here!Thanks!
Suitable replacements for HSMS-282x - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: perdrix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2018, 02:34:05 am
content: Broadcom (bless their dear cotton socks) have discontinued the entire Avago Schottky, PIN and PIN Attenuator diode range AFAICT.One of my designs (replacement levelling head for Tektronix SG504) uses the HSMS-282R Ring Quad. So this rather inconvenient to say the leastGRRRR!Are there any alternatives for these?ThanksDave

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2018, 02:27:36 pm
content: Finding similar specs in the same package and same pin-out is a tough one.

author: Pifke
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 20, 2018, 04:53:07 pm
content: there are a lot on ebay

author: Lukas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2018, 07:13:19 pm
content: People in this thread came up with some ideas for replacement parts:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/diy-ghz-sampling-head-for-lt100mhz-scopes/msg1439392/#msg1439392

author: Mosaic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2019, 04:58:42 pm
content: If u guys need an improved SG504 leveling head, these sell on ebay from time to timehttps://www.ebay.com/itm/132801983494

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2019, 11:02:17 pm
content: I posted in that discussion thread.The only solution unless you buy NOS (new old stock) parts is to qualify another part.At least there are potential replacements. NXP discontinued all of their PNP RF transistors for which there are no comparable parts.
Suitable sensors for measure fire conditions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Dhanushka
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2019, 05:54:12 am
content: Dear all,I am doing a research about a forest fires generating artificial forest fire conditions. Therefore I need to measure temperature, humidity and air quality (percentages of gases oxygen, carbon dioxide etc.) at forest fire conditions. So, I hope use a digital thermometer, a humidity sensor and a air quality sensor according to following requirements.1. A standard communication (I2C, RS232 etc.) path needed to communicate with my microcontrollers.2. These sensors must endure high temperature environment conditions (fires).4. These should be calibrated devices.I kindly request that please tell me the details about the available sensors you know according to above requirements.Thank you

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2019, 06:25:09 am
content: Does it have to survive multiple fires with no maintainance, or just survive the fire, then can be cleaned / servicedHow close to the fire front do you need it to monitor, and do you need to monitor any of the data types while sitting in the fireThe main issue I see is temperature limits, mostly for the gas sensors and humidity sensors for anything above 200C, and the copper wire used to connect it for much over 800C (almost no strength) anywhere above ground will see them melted. temperature is easy so long as your not above about 1600C (a quick google seems to hint about 800C, so with some good margin)If I had to actually build one, I would have the main electronics underground, probably about a half meter, with the gas and humidity sensor riding in a blooming flower type mechanism so it ends up down the hole underground once the fire gets too high, leaving just the thermometer, which you can buy wither PTC1000 or thermocouple type sensors rated to deal with and have that wired back to your electronicsOnce the fire front has passed, you clean off any debree so the sensor can bloom again and start monitoring, or remove it until the next fire risk time, if left in the field you going to have to deal with plants and insects jamming mechanismsIf you really want to monitor gas and humidity during the fire, there is a work around, but it comes at the cost of electricity on your part, you need to siphon down a small flow rate of air, cool it down to the working range of the sensor, with either water for short duration fires, or a peltier for longer duration fires. with the gas cooled, you can safely measure the coposition during the fire without risking melting the electronics,
Suitable stereo amplifier for my speakers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dimkovic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 04, 2014, 12:05:58 am
content: Hello.I have 2 speaker + 2 tweeter. The speakers are 8w at 4ohms, and the tweeters are 3w at 4ohms.The speaker and the tweeter are connected in parallel. I'm looking for a stereo amplifier IC that will be suitable for this pair of speakers. So if you can help me with some schematic or IC suggestions, what power should the amp be and should it run at 4 or 2 ohms. Thanks.

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2014, 12:16:29 am
content: connecting them in parallel is simply wrong. the tweeter should be connected through a high-pass filter (or at least a single capacitor)regarding the amp... any amplifier which can deliver 5-10W to 4ohm will be ok. google is your friend to find a schematic

author: dimkovic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 04, 2014, 12:25:43 am
content: Quote from: rob77 on August 04, 2014, 12:16:29 amThey are actually connected like this

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2014, 12:31:07 am
content: so they're not in parallelthere is a capacitor which acts as a high-pass filter.btw... have a look at TDA2009 - it's an old IC but still available and it's cheap - you can make a simple stereo amplifier (2x10W max) with minimum of components using that IC.

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2014, 01:47:34 am
content: google 'chip amps' and diyaudio.
Suitable temperature sensor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Dhanushka
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2019, 05:53:01 am
content: Dear all,I need to measure a temperature inside a stove. Therefore, please tell me me a available sensor according to following specs.1. Durable to high temperature (1000 Celsius)2. Pre-calibrated3. Good resolution (less than one Celsius)4. This must have direct digital temperature output with I2C/RS232 etc.5. Range at least 0-1000 CelsiusThanks

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2019, 06:01:56 am
content: How about some numbers, not generalizations? A stove for instance could cover a wide range.

author: Dhanushka
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2019, 06:15:45 am
content: Dear bob91343,I fogot to add the range. At least, the range should be 0-1000 Celsius.Thanks

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2019, 06:48:45 am
content: Try thermocouples.You should be able to easily (cheaply) get ones that will go up to 450°C.If you really want 1000°C, they will be expensive and may not last long at that temp.You can either get a thermocouple reader with a serial output (pre calibrated) ORyou will have to design your own thermocouple interface circuit, it will need a 'cold junction' to make it accurate.Thermocouple are accurate to absolute 1°C accuracy and the resolution is good to 0.1°C

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2019, 12:34:00 pm
content: I would probably use a PT100/PT1000 sensor, they are easier to deal with than thermocouples and much easier to calibrate if you're going to design the signal conditioning and do the calibration yourself. Make sure you select one than is rated up to 1000°C (they will not come cheap). They are often also easier to integrate mechanically as you can find them threaded. Now I'm not sure you can reasonably get better than 1°C of accuracy over a 0-1000°C range with them, so that would have to be checked, but a possible show-stopper.Thermocouples sensors alone will be cheaper but much less easy to integrate unless you buy ready-made and pre-calibrated modules with signal conditioning...It will eventually depend on all your requirements, so take a look at both solutions and figure that out.
Suitable VCO unit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 08:01:00 am
content: Thedatasheetof the EL485 from intersil states that" There are 2 general types of VCO that can be usedwith the EL4585, LC and crystal controlled. Additionally,each type can be either built up using discrete components,including a varactor as the frequency controlling element, orcomplete, self contained modules can be purchased witheverything inside a metal can."Does anyone know a suitable module?I tried to lookherebut I didn't find much.I would like my center frequency to be around 21.476 Mhz

author: fcb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 09:36:53 am
content: Your unlikely to find a self contained module. I've used both the 4584 & 4585 in products - i built the LC VCO in one of the app notes, worked very well (broadcast products).

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 11:10:13 am
content: Thank you, I saw you citing them inthis threadbut as in there, I cannot find the app note. do you mean the eval board schematic?

author: fcb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 11:18:00 am
content: I think I used the LC tank one from the datasheet:http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/el45/el4584.pdftry page 9We are talking mid 90's when I first used one, and the last time I designed one in was in 2004.

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 07:51:30 pm
content: Thank you very much, in the following weekends I will try
Summer soda cooler - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jawa_master
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2015, 04:23:29 pm
content: summer is getting closer every day, and i have decided to do a new project.A peltier-powered, soda cooler !!!!I have two peltier elements, and i also have two cheap CPU cooler's to cool down the hot side of the peltier. the cold side will be mounted to an aluminium alloy, carved to the shape of a soda can.What i need help, for is the circuit. I want one thermistor (placed on the soda can) and a potentiometer to choose the desired temperature. If those two could somehow work together to turn the peltier elements and the fans on and off, to regulate the soda temperature, that would be awesome.I would love to make it analog, but it's OK to have it digital, if that's the only solutionI hope you can help me! cheers, Iver

author: Prime73
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2015, 04:52:11 pm
content: this could be a good start: