hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: wpl
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 06, 2020, 05:42:11 pm
content: Can 1.27mm pitch thru hole be hand soldered? I assume that bridging will be a problem. If so is there a technique to do it?

author: Unixon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2020, 05:52:23 pm
content: More flux, less solder, clean up afterwards.

author: LateLesley
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2020, 06:52:38 pm
content: Yes, but as Unixon said, you need plenty of good flux.
Soldering a 16mhz crystal oscillator near an ESP8266 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: amin08
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2017, 06:01:31 pm
content: I just wanted to know if I will lose WiFi signal if I put a 16MHZ crystal oscillator near an ESP8266.Here's a pic:

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2017, 09:43:12 pm
content: There is not a fixed correct answer to this question. Layout is stilla bit of art. Best approach,m if you can, provide several pads atdifferent sites and measure. Use solder bridging to connect partsto 8266, don't parallel all pad sites as that effects Cloading on xtal.https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/app-notes/index.mvp/id/5100http://www.ti.com/lit/an/swra367a/swra367a.pdfhttps://www.jlab.org/accel/eecad/pdf/050rfdesign.pdfhttp://www.cypress.com/file/136236/downloadRegards, Dana.
Soldering a 3030 led - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 6PTsocket
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2019, 03:39:21 pm
content: I have to replace an led. The small pc board that it sits on appears to be some sort of heatsink material, as well. The problem is the solder pads are completely under the led. Do I use solder paste? Hot air from the back? Hot air from the front? The areas next to the led have a lot of perf holes. Can I stick the led in place with paste and apply an iron with a blob of solder next to the led pads and hope it conducts enough heat? I have never dealt with hidden pads before. The only hot air gun I own is a big unrestricted blower, not a soldering device. Hooefully I can use an iron. This is just a one shot problem. It is the light fixture from my freezer. Kitchenaid wants $70 for the fixture(led, pc board, lens cover and connector). Mouser wants under a buck for the led. The old led worked on the bench but cut out as soon as it got cold. It was probably a bad solder joint but it is off the board and destroyed and too late to worry about that now.Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

author: Totalsolutions
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2019, 09:19:08 am
content: Try the heat from a 50 watt halogen lamp. Purch the pcb on top of lamp and the heat could melt the solder. Other wattage lamps are available as well as 12 volt types. YMMVSent from my iPad using Tapatalk

author: thinkfat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 31, 2019, 11:17:05 am
content: If you don't have a hot-air gun or something, try putting the PCB in an old pan on some sand and put it on the stove. You don't need paste, just tin the pads on the PCB and put the LED on. But you'd need some extra flux or it'll probably not flow nicely.Or use an iron? You know, the kind used to flatten clothes. Put it downside up on some fixture, put the PCB on top and heat it up. No idea if that would work, though, normally those irons don't get hot enough before tripping some safety device.

author: Totalsolutions
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2019, 11:53:02 am
content: Good tips there. Another, the diode / led is directional ie only goes one way round. There will be an identifying mark.

author: 6PTsocket
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2019, 03:29:56 pm
content: Quote from: Totalsolutions on July 31, 2019, 11:53:02 amThese are polarity indicated by one pad on the led being larger than the other.Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

author: 6PTsocket
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2019, 03:34:54 pm
content: Thanks everyone for the good suggestions. What I have concluded from them is that the heat should be aoplied from the back. I have an IR thermometer so I can keep tabs on the heat source. The bulb or sand sound like good ideas.Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Soldering advice - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Hornnumb2
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2019, 04:38:51 pm
content: I am not new to soldering as I have been working on arcade boards and chevy cluster for many years but I am new to something this tiny.https://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-bn94-01628n-main-board-component-repair-kit-for-ln40a530p1fxza.htm.I sure everybody does have there way of doing this.1) hot air to remove, solder paste on heat sink for ic and then drag solder the legs OR2) hot air to remove, clean and add solder back to traces, hot air to set ic back in place?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2019, 02:47:31 pm
content: If not for the thermal pad, I would do (1). Drag soldering is much faster, so less thermal stress on the component, PCB, and nearby components. (And frankly, it’s really easy!) But with the thermal pad there’s no real alternative to reflowing it.So do (2), but just get proper solder paste. Prepare the pads (do NOT apply pressure while wiping solder wick as instructed in the video! Wick is not supposed to be wiped, just basically dabbed and lifted straight up, so as to not lift pads), clean them very well to remove flux residues, and then add solder paste and reflow. (Don’t melt wire solder onto the pads prior.)
Soldering DIN connectors - Solder will not tin --Any tips? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jstarr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2016, 02:59:21 am
content: I have been struggling to solder DIN 8 pin microphone connectors. Admittedly I bought these from a variety of unknown vendors on Ebay and I cannot get the tiny hollow wire sockets to tin or to hold solder. I am using a fine tip medium power iron with Kester 60/40 tin-lead. I tinned the wires and tried to use a liquid flux on the DIN socket holes but the the solder just wont bind to the DIN wire hole. I insert the pretinned wire into the hole, apply heat to the either the wire or the socket hole and try to flow some solder. My iron temp is around 325C. If I spend to much time the DIN plastic melts. Would I have better luck with a low temp solder- are they better at wetting these kind of metal surfaces?happy new year...john

author: Fortran
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2016, 03:13:28 am
content: My guess is that your problem is either oxide, too small tip, or not enough wattage. You shouldn't need to go above 300C.Try scraping/roughing the sockets first and see if the solder flows then.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2016, 03:33:23 am
content: 1. Scrape the surface. Chinese manufacturers like to apply this shiny coating that does not wet properly.2. Insert the connector into a spare receptacle. This removes some of the heat from the other side of the connector and keeps pins in alignment, so connector can survive slightly higher temperatures.

author: neil t
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2016, 03:37:51 am
content: either oxide or a oily coating (manufacturing process) most likely perhaps run a jet file/cleaner or fine rats tail file and plenty of cleaner/ isopropol or pcb cleanerhope this helps.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2016, 05:52:31 am
content: Forget the wire, for now. Try fluxing and tinning just the solder tail, alone, first. Until you can do that, you won't get anywhere. Turn UP the temp, if you need to. All the way to 400C! You need to get it to temp faster to not melt the plastic.Also RA flux. Not the low solids no clean stuff, which is no clean due to barely doing anything.
soldering equipment whats the best choice? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dmkmedia
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2016, 08:53:36 pm
content: i have a soldering station that goes up to 450 degrees and im wondering would it be better to buy a hot air soldering guni have seen them used a few times in various circumstances and they look quite easy to use especially with paste and smaller itemswould this hot air system be useful in normal every day soldering and if so what is the best option for buying one ...im just getting in to all this electrical stuff and i have all the basic gear but now looking at upgrading a few itemsone thought i have to keep in mind when i am picking equipment my bench space is very limited and i have to think about the foot print on my desk

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 27, 2016, 09:20:51 pm
content: Hot air stations and traditional soldering irons are seperate tools with seperate jobs. Hot air is typically only used on SMD and with paste. a hot rod iron will always be used for any through hole work and soldering of wires, one does not replace the other.

author: dmkmedia
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2016, 09:37:39 pm
content: ok so i will buy one and add it to my tools as i have used p[aste before and used a flame to melt it butyes looks like i will buy one to add to my toys

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 27, 2016, 09:53:44 pm
content: Like the irons you can get them for around 30-40 quid for a cheap ad nasty one. One day you will just get a slightly more expensive but equally nasty oven.
Soldering Flux - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Achraf
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 26, 2019, 08:47:15 am
content: Hi all,I have a problem with a flux I have used since 15 years ago. It works ok, but it turns dark with the time and get an unpleasant black/grey aspect. This flux contains zinc chloride and formic acid dissolved in water and white fixing vaseline.Anyone could help me?Thanks in advance

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2019, 11:11:27 am
content: Acid Zinc Chloride fluxes are totally unsuitable for electronics and electrical work. Their residue is extremely corrosive and gets up under the wire insulation and under components on PCBs, and other places where its impossible to totally remove it, resulting in early failure of whatever you soldered with it.Therefore, unless you only use this flux for plumbing and tin-smithing, (and even for those applications it needs careful cleaning afterwards), go and buy some electronics grade halide free rosin based flux.
Soldering for automotive applications - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rexxar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2014, 06:22:56 am
content: Hi all, I recently inherited a 1998 Dodge Stratus, and I've been having issues with the instrument cluster. This seems to be a common problem, and from what I've read, it's often cracked solder joints and/or burnt out resistors. Seeing as it's a PITA to get the instrument cluster out, I want to do it right, and not have to worry about it for another 16 years. (I can't verify this problem right now, as it's been towed to the shop for a snapped belt on the highway)So my question is, how do I make a solder joint that will stand up to vibrations, extreme temperature shifts, and all the other fun things that happen in vehicles?

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2014, 06:32:51 am
content: Normally, nothing fancy. You don't need anything special, just make sure that the soldering iron that you buy has at least 80W of power. This will be convenient for soldering wires, which can be quite thick in automotive due to low voltage and large currents.Just use lots of flux, leaded solder and you're set. The key is to get good wetting of surfaces, no cold joints and that you remove flux residue so that it doesn't corrode the joints.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2014, 06:39:07 am
content: most of these faults are due to excessive heating of a component or poor soldering quality on first attempt, for the burning out resistors your going to need to replace them with the correctly sized units (3x rated for actual load) as for the soldering read below, i commonly rework truck and bus dashes and in the 4 years i have done this job i have never seen a job come back with a dry jointThe best thing you can do solder joint wise is clean the board where the components are with acetone (this will melt plastics so keep it away while cleaning) this will clean off any old flux and any films that have built up, making re-work faster,next up using your favorite de-soldering tool (mine is goot brand desolder braid) clean off every last piece of solder from the joints (if components are going to fall out then you may need to do a one joint at a time approach),Heat your iron up to about 330 wet the tip slightly with a dot of solder the heat the joint for over a second.flow solder until it makes a nice fillet and afterwards clean off the flux whether its no clean or not,if the soldering is done well spray coatings are an option though i personally never use them,
Soldering Iron and Electrostatic Bracelet connection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mike_mike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2019, 09:42:34 pm
content: Hello,I want to connect to the ground a soldering iron and a electrostatic bracelet.I know that there have to be a resistor, but I do not know were to solder this resistor. Also, the connection of the soldering iron and electrostatic bracelet will be made inside the soldering station.Please help me with a schematic for this connection.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2019, 12:07:42 pm
content: By pure chance this is being discussed in another thread right now:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/does-you-soldering-iron-have-grounded-tip/
Soldering Iron Heater Circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Unsanity
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2023, 06:48:56 am
content: Hello,I was reviewing this soldering iron heater circuit, and there are 2 parts that I do not understand.Yellow PartDo Vout+ and Vout- make positive and negative voltages of the Vin?Blue PartWhat is the purpose of D8 diode?

author: Unsanity
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2023, 04:56:18 am
content: [Blue Highlight]I did some more reading, and it appears the point of the Schottky diode is to be a Vbe clamping diode. However, it does not have any impact on the operation of the circuit because it will always be in reverse bias. I built an LTSpice simulation to confirm my thinking. The operation of the circuit is the same with or without the diode." alt="" class="bbc_img" />" alt="" class="bbc_img" />

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2023, 08:01:54 am
content: Vout- will be connected somewhere else in the schematic, presumably ground.Assuming the supply voltage is somewhat higher than 15v (aren't these 24v nominal?) then D8 will be forward biased when Q3/Q4 are on, limiting the emitter voltage (and therefore Q2 Vgs) to 15v+Schottky Vf below the supply rail. Vgs(max) for Q2 is 20v.

author: Unsanity
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2023, 01:47:22 am
content: Quote from: mikerj on March 29, 2023, 08:01:54 amI see where my thinking went wrong. Thank you for the help.
:: soldering iron mod (for traditional ceramic heater types) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 3roomlab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 05:01:31 pm
content: hi folks,first of all ... this mod may not work for all users of traditional ceramic heater soldering irons (eg : Goot TQ series? some hakkos?).the mod is to improve contact between ceramic heater and tip. it is a no brainer mod actually (see pic).for some users who may have noticed, these tips do not always fit around the heater snugly. hence due to this, if there is temperature control involved, the heating cycle hysteresis max/min temperature will be bigger. by inserting an additional aluminium film/sheet ( i took mine cut out from a thick aluminium baking tray, wash it or leave it with some of the butter smell ... it will help when you turn it on to tell you, it is working !!!) to "tighten" up the contact between heater and tip (the piece i used is only about 1cm by 3cm), the heater now is a snug fit ... and the heat transfer is ... although still not perfect, but very much improved. because i mod my own temp control, the hysteresis cycle is now reduced (about +/- 7oC) and i have also turned down the total power dimmer to 75% ...(used to be around 90-100%)the pic shows a certain way i have positioned the rolled aluminium, it is suppose to help angle the ALU piece so that the ceramic heater will help ease it inside. warning it could get stuck, so try at your own risk. for tips which have alot of "space" ... you know you will need to do this modit seems that as you may switch to new/different shaped tips, every tip have a slightly different fit. and these slight variations in mechanical contact affects the thermal characteristics somewhat greatly if you are already used to a certain "style" of soldering ...hope this is helpful to ceramic soldering iron users
Soldering iron question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Wallace Gasiewicz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2021, 11:41:19 pm
content: I use an old Pace system with iron and desolderer.What sort of compound could be used between the tips and the heating element to make changing tips easier.... Silicon?Or is this a bad idea?Brand names would be helpful. ThanksWally

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2021, 02:14:49 am
content: Quote from: Wallace Gasiewicz on June 26, 2021, 11:41:19 pmThat depends upon the design of the heater and tips. Many anti seize compounds are conductive so you would need to be real careful about using such. In a very similar application we have tried using heat sink compound but that has its own issues.You might want to see what Pace suggest.

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2021, 03:18:10 am
content: I have used molybdenum disulfide with good results.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2021, 04:27:57 am
content: Pace normally discusses maintenance in the handpiece or station manual. If oxidization or flux has built up then that needs to be addressed. Some models say to change the tip while hot for proper fitment so check that as well.Images of the tip and heater condition might help for the best advice.

author: WattsThat
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2021, 05:43:21 am
content: No goop wanted, desired or needed.You need the appropriate diameter wire brush for the hand piece which should be available from Pace. Find your model on their website and then look for the parts list. Spares are available online from Techni-tool, Jensen, Kimco and many other authorized distributors. Get some tips, visi-filters and the felt filters for the desoldering tool as well.A good cleaning, once or twice a year, while hot, is all that is needed. Same procedure for the desoldering hand piece as well but it could be a different diameter brush.
Soldering Iron Questions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: epic_ziver_D
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 19, 2019, 12:14:03 pm
content: I was unable to find any information about this,What is the difference between TS-100 and SainSmart ToolPAC PRO32?And what is better to buy, a TS-100 or one of thesehttp://bit.ly/2DtoywS(Heard some good stuff about it from someone I know) or some banggood FX-951/888D knockoff (I can't really get a real one cuz cheapest I can get one where I live is at least 170$ which I cannot afford rn)And in terms of tips, if I get a TS-100 should I buy the TS-100 shorter tips or will long ones do? and if I get T12 Hakko tips should I get original ones or are knockoff ones fine?Also, does anyone have any experience with banggood?These are a few questions which I have been having a hard time finding a good answer to and would really appreciate any help(I posted it in the wrong section earlier and I had no idea how to move it, so I reposted it here)
Soldering Iron Station VS Hot Air Rework Station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Devian
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2011, 03:58:22 am
content: Soldering Iron Station VS Hot Air Rework soldering Station? You will choose which type?Why?

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2011, 04:23:55 am
content: Quote from: Devian on November 16, 2011, 03:58:22 amI will choose the soldering iron station because I don't do any SMT work. Which one will you choose?

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2011, 11:38:37 am
content: If you need to own only one, its a soldering station. However, until Dave reviewed the compact, no-nonsense, cheapo hot air workstation by 858D Atten, I didn't think I needed it. With the 858D I find its easier to reclaim parts and working with SMT much easier.

author: Devian
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2011, 03:01:09 am
content: Thank you guys, that is to say, hot air rework station can do much more rework than soldering iron station? but soldering iron rework station also have many kinds of soldering iron tips, there still many smt rework it can not do?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2011, 03:11:40 am
content: Quote from: saturation on November 16, 2011, 11:38:37 am+1 Same here, I find it very usefull for many things. I was able to replace some thru hole hall effect sensors on brushless motor sensor boards without removing the boards from the windings. Just warmed the board and hall with the smallest tip untill I could pull it out with hemostats and fluxed and installed the new one while the board was still warm.The 858D I got only needed the case ground mod. the rest of it was ok.

author: hacklordsniper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2011, 08:20:28 am
content: Quote from: Devian on November 16, 2011, 03:58:22 amI dont see the point here? Any of them is a separate tool and in electronics you will need eventually both (more soldering iron than air soldering station). They are pretty different things.

author: Devian
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2011, 02:57:29 am
content: Hello,thank you,guysMy problem arealy resolvedRegards
Soldering iron tip replating question... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: assimilat
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 11, 2011, 06:11:27 pm
content: Hello,I have been a big fan of the EEV blog vids for a while now and just thought i'd hop on to the forum to ask if anyone has heard of anyone replating soldering iron tips? I know with good soldering practice a tip should last for a fairly long time but there is a point where they need to be changed or there might be some custom shape tip you want and that is the main reason for me asking(aside from that its just fun). I have been playing with electroplating, machining and forging for a while now and I know that I could forge and machine a copper billet precisely enough to be the proper size of a iron tip. What im wondering about is if there is any reason a copper tip that I have machined and then iron plated would be noticeably different than a tip that comes from hakko? The only place ive seen anyone mention anything about doing it is in this articlePopular Mechanics: June 1955 New Life for Soldering Iron Tipswhich I understand is quite old but there I have found there is MUCH to be learned from google books in that way. So...good idea? bad idea?Thanks!!!

author: kaptain_zero
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2011, 10:21:40 pm
content: If I recall correctly, Hakko tips have an internal sleeve where the ceramic heater goes. What it is made from I do not know, but it needs to be there to prevent all the scaling that would happen if it were just copper. Besides the iron plated tip, there is also the nickel/chrome plating on the rest of the exterior of a Hakko tip.In other words, if you have a very very specific job that cannot be handled by one of the stock Hakko tips.... then perhaps it's worth your while to make one, but I'd suggest using a different soldering iron, one that just uses a copper rod that is held in place with a screw and the element surrounds the tip. For the measly $4 to $6 per tip that I've paid on ebay for genuine Hakko tips, it hardly seems worth the effort to make lower quality tips.I still remember my first soldering iron, it had a copper screwdriver shaped tip and I simply filed it back to shape every so often, until I ran out of tip.... I'd then buy a new tip for it and start over again.RegardsChristianOoops... I seem to have trailed off on the idea of making tips from scratch.... Frankly, even just re-plating Hakko tips would not be worth it... those tips are known to loose their sleeves when they get old and many times the sleeve remains stuck on the ceramic heater which causes more work and possible parts replacement.

author: assimilat
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 12, 2011, 02:16:32 am
content: Right on! Thats all I needed to know...It being possible isnt anything that would make my life much easier...I just wondered if it were possible/worth it at all since I already have the equipment to do it and it seemed like an interesting project.Thanks for your reply!
Soldering Iron tip sizes & shapes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: pontrumlee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 05, 2018, 06:21:22 am
content: I am wondering the different uses for specific tips and sizes. I can find very general information on the shapes but not much on uses or what size for what application. Specifically I am looking for a Hakko T12 for soldering RCA plugs.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2018, 06:32:34 am
content: Welcome to the forum.Here's the full list:https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_t12.htmlPersonally I prefer either a 2-3mm chisel or a hoof style tip. Pretty good all round use and good heat conduction capability whereas if you go too fine the tip won't deliver enough heat in larger joints.If you are to do any SMD the hoof is preferred but a K style is good for passive rework as it can contact both pads for the passive to be wiped or lifted off with tweezers.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 05, 2018, 02:47:21 pm
content: I have chisel tips in sizes from.7 mm to 3.2 mm. The thing to do is to try to size the tip to the work you are doing. I don't do much SMD soldering and it is pretty much passives so the .7 mm tip works great for that.Quote from: tautech on December 05, 2018, 06:32:34 amThis is not so much of an issue if you have really good equipment. I have a Hakko FX-951 and a Metcal MX-500. It is much more of a factor when using inexpensive equipment, especially some of the really cheap clones. If you plan to do a lot of soldering, don't cheap out. Buy good equipment and OEM tips for it for the best possible performance. Even if you have a T12 clone, buy Hakko tips to get the best performance out of it. You stand a good chance of finding out that the quality/fit/finish/performance of cheap clone tips to be very much lacking.

author: dk_wiking
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 05, 2018, 02:59:59 pm
content: HiI am using the T12 Series only for non SMD. And have four different bits/tips (D16, D24, BC2, BC3). For your purpose I would narrow it down to a BC2 for the heavier stuff and a D16 or maybe a D12 for the lighter stuff
Soldering Iron tip sizes & shapes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Gmm213
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2017, 08:33:02 am
content: I am wondering the different uses for specific tips and sizes. I can find very general information on the shapes but not much on uses or what size for what application. Specifically I am looking for a Hakko T12 for soldering RCA plugs.

author: RayRay
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2017, 11:05:26 am
content: It really depends on the uses.Let me give you my recommendations:General desoldering work - T12-D24 (unless working with very tight spaces)General soldering work - Use T12-D24 and 0.8MM solderSoldering work where the solder joints are very close together (not much spacing in-between) - Use T12-I and 0.5MM solderSoldering Plugs to a wire (or soldering SMD resistors/diodes) - T12-I and 0.5MM solderUsing drag soldering technique for various chips/ICs (with reasonable leg spacing) - T12-BC2 or T12-K and 0.8MM solderPlating wire ends with solder - T12-I or T12-B (this can technically be done with any tip, but I find it easiest to do with conical ones due to the shape)Hope you found this useful, and good luck!

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2017, 11:23:25 am
content: I like a bent conical (type J) most for general purpose use, great for through hole and surface mount both and very versatile in the ways it can be used, especially good for through hole legs as you sort of naturally hook onto each leg and flow solder into the crook.

author: kalel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2017, 11:41:13 am
content: Quote from: sleemanj on October 09, 2017, 11:23:25 amBent shapes are interesting, I don't think I have that type. Might make an easier soldering iron angle when soldering. It's worth a try.
Soldering iron tip - Weller PL style - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: gardner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2021, 04:20:01 am
content: My backup soldering iron is an old Tandy/Radio Shack job. It needs a new tip. It looks like a Weller SL325 and AFAICT it takes a PL style tip -- seems to be 1/4 inch x 28 TPI thread, or something close. I think a PL series tip will fit. Astonishingly, these seem to be like hen's teeth. I expected to find a pack of 5 assorted styles for $10 on Amazon, but instead they start at almost $20 for a single tip.Is there a cheaper source out there that could get me one in Canada? At $20, I think I will just ditch the whole iron and pick up one that fits a more readily available tip. Seems like a shame though.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2021, 07:11:43 am
content: The major distributors are selling the PL111 for $7.70 USD:https://octopart.com/pl111-weller-1014783?r=spPerhaps you can add some other items to the order to defray the cost of shipping.

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2021, 07:29:31 am
content: I don't know what's available in Canada, but check your local hardware chains for those tips.Or perhaps the US chain will mail to Canada?https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-Electronic-Precision-Solder-Tip-PL100/303810594https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-Chisel-Plated-Solder-Tip-PL113/303810593

author: gardner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2021, 04:51:04 pm
content: Quote from: ledtester on November 17, 2021, 07:11:43 amGood call. Mouser will sell me a PL113 for C$10 -- I will add it to my next order.I live in a town of over 1M people and there is only one electronics retailer. He's got none. HD carries them in the US, but not here AFAICT. It seems they should be easier to find.
Soldering Iron Tips Cleaner Tool - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: nickeevblog10
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2018, 10:20:19 pm
content: YIHUA 200C 110V Soldering Iron Tips Cleaner Tool Sponge Mesh Brush Smart Infrared looks like a good idea on Ebay but then I recalled tip tinning techniques and checked them out on Youtube so am not sure if I need one of these now.Is there alternative cleaning tools or techniques to this electric tool. The blackness I get on my solder tips is the problem I am talking about.I do have the sponge and I do have a cleaner into which I can push and pull the solder tips during soldering for cleaning but the electric tool looks to be much quicker but i am not sure?I bought some tinning paste to tin the soldering iron tip too.

author: GadgetBoy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2018, 04:46:12 am
content: You can clean the blackened crud off with pumice. You can avoid the buildup by soldering at a lower temperature.Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

author: t1d
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2018, 12:58:52 pm
content: Well, you have posted this in the beginner section. So, I am going to assume that you have the typical beginner constraints - knowledge and money...IMHO, I would not recommend this expense for a beginner. I think a brass sponge would give similar results and they can be bought for c-h-e-a-p at the local dollar store. Knowing proper cleaning techniques can totally bypass this expense. I wouldn't even suggest this for production line use, unless it had an amazing product reputation.I apologize, if I come off too strong. I rarely express myself this boldly. But, this just seems like it is not needed.What other equipment do you need to upgrade, or add to your tools? Can we help you set priorities?

author: nickeevblog10
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2019, 11:47:48 pm
content: Forgive me for not responding. A very new beginner at electronics you may call me.I have since learned and now practice tinning the solder tip on a $15 soldering iron and cleaning on steel wool, wiping a damp sponge and dipping into $1 Ebay flux paste while soldering. Works great and the replacement elements cost about $2 or less and last surprising long... longer if I remember to turn the soldering iron off between jobs.I would be interesting to hear about priorities.I do a few more little soldering jobs now, learning to be busier I am and a little organised now too, so not sure what kind of priorities might interest me, but give me go.

author: Cnoob
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2019, 12:02:58 am
content: As for cleaning the black flux residue off the iron's tip I use an old pan scrub a bit like the brass sponge but made of steel.
Soldering iron tips -- lead free vs lead based - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Kirigozo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2013, 04:25:13 am
content: Hi folks,Is there a difference between the tips used for lead-free solder as opposed to lead based solder?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2013, 05:05:28 am
content: Tips will work with either lead or lead-free solders. Some manufacturers increased the amount of iron plating since the advent of lead-free solder, and they're tinned with lead-free solder.Re-tin them a few times with lead-based solder of your choice (aka rinsing), and you'll have gotten the lead-free solder off of the tip, and be ready to go.

author: Kirigozo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2013, 05:52:43 am
content: Thank you nanofrog.Much appreciated.
SOLDERING IRON - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jed841
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 03, 2010, 07:55:24 am
content: Ok im a little aussie and am new to electronics (in year 10) and is wondering if my iroda Butane soldering iron is good enough for general kits. Also how do you properly clean it?

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 03, 2010, 08:55:09 am
content: Oh, no way, butane irons are horrible!Get yourself a proper adjustable temperature soldering station like the Hakko 936.A good iron tip just needs a wet sponge to clean it and it should last for a long time.Dave.

author: DJPhil
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2010, 09:17:15 am
content: Quote from: EEVblog on May 03, 2010, 08:55:09 amI'll second that. I was going to build my own or do with a $20 special, but I saved up and bought a 936-12 (comes with a medium duty iron) and a couple of tips. It was very much worth it, and if you take good care of it it'll last decades.

author: logictom
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 03, 2010, 11:51:49 am
content: Quote from: DJPhil on May 03, 2010, 09:17:15 amI'll third that, I've been using a unregulated iron for years but just recently picked up a WESD51 and my soldering has improved 100x and I can finally use solder braid properly
Soldering jumper wires on a flex cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ArchieAltz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2025, 01:52:19 am
content: So recently I have found a flexgate era MacBook Pro for a pretty solid price . And these era laptops have the video cable cut from opening and normal usage over time and the only fix aside from changing out the cable is to solder a jumper wire(replacing the flex cable includes fully removing some protective shielding which is too complicated for a highschooler). Now I've personally never done this work so I would love some advice and preferably how i could practice this without breaking this device. Any and all help is appreciated and thank you in advance

author: BILLPOD
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2025, 12:53:28 pm
content: Good Morning ArchieAltz, There is lots of info here:https://macmyths.com/how-to-fix-flexgate-macbook-pro/#9-how-to-fix-flexgate-issue-with-macbook-pro

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2025, 03:12:27 pm
content: If you don't have the skills to strip the machine right down to remove the cable to work on it, your chances of success are near zero. Also you need the right tools for the job - basically a 'pro' grade SMD rework station with a good iron (integrated cartridge tip type), hot air tool, and board preheater.Also, most of us *WITH* the skills and equipment would decide it isn't worth trying to repair the cable with jumpers - a tough and tedious task at the best of times for a fine pitch insulated flat-flex, with poor reliability afterwards even if only a few traces were bad and high risk of logic board damage if any of the jumpers break loose or short, vs replacing the whole cable with a chinese clone of the OEM one, or even would write the job off as the labour cost alone would be hard to justify on an elderly macbook.
Soldering Setup - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Yoshii
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 23, 2023, 04:07:42 pm
content: Hi guys,can someone from experience provide a cost for the equipment to get started in soldering? More micro soldering PCB boards, computer motherboards etc?Been looking at getting into it for a while now to expand my businesses services. Currently have a soldering iron (may buy the Pencile one as recommended) with flux, solder sucker tool.I need things like fume extractor (I know some cheap ones don't work at all apparently) and a good microscope. Possibly a heat gun also (A lot seem to say 858D one to get started)?I've sat on the fence for a while now as in the back of my mind I think do people not just replace the whole item now as we seem to be in a bit of a throw away society rather than getting there electronic device fixed?Cheers

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2023, 05:42:33 pm
content: I'm not sure how you will be able to work effectively with BGA mount parts using just the tools you just mentioned. It seems a pre-heat plate and a re-flow oven might also be required.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2023, 05:44:33 pm
content: It's not rocket science, but it does take some practice and decent equipment.If you are doing rework as part of a business, you should probably get in contact, in person, with someone that has some experience and have them set up your lab and do the work.(I've been doing design and prototype builds for quite a while now, and my success rate with BGAs in nowhere near 100% for hand soldering/rework)
soldering question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 5282
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2016, 07:31:38 am
content: when i soldering stm32 100pin tqfp .some smd led is light up when i soldering stm32 chip and no power in my board why ?

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2016, 08:25:22 am
content: Tip of the iron is grounded and your body is not, so EMI induces enough current to light up the LED. LED will only light up if you also touch the board.Modern LEDs light up from minuscule currents, like in the 100-500 nA range.

author: 5282
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2016, 08:55:28 am
content: ok so it's emi or esd ?my iron not grounded it's only 2pin 220vac

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2016, 08:57:47 am
content: EMI. ESD will not cause a sustained effect.Quote from: 5282 on December 09, 2016, 08:55:28 amThat probably contributes to the effect. And may be the primary source of it.I would not solder MCUs with an iron like that.
Soldering SMD electrolytic caps  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: MostlyCarbon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 09, 2011, 09:21:27 am
content: And advice on how to hand solder SMD electrolytic caps to a PCB?They kinda tough as the terminals are under the device.There's the (plastic?) insulator as well which I don't want to melt with my iron.If I had some junk PCBs and parts I could use trial and error and practice but I have 2 caps and 1 PCB and I'd rather not make a mess of it.Maybe Dave could show us how in his next soldering tutorial on SMD stuff.Any help is appreciated, thanks.

author: MostlyCarbon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 09, 2011, 09:55:08 am
content: Found this.. more about removing old ones but good info.The suggestion is to use solder paste, I can see how this would make it easier.http://www.co-bw.com/DIY_Replacing_SMD_capacitor.htm

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2011, 11:39:13 am
content: I can't say I've had a problem before.I just load the pads with solder hold the capacitor to the board and use a fine tipped iron to melt the solder.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 09, 2011, 11:43:20 am
content: On large packages where the exposed terminal on each side is much smaller in area than the pad under the device it is important to use thermal relief on the pads if you plen on using a standard iron to solder them, or you can preheat the board.
:: soldering SMD on its SIDE ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 3roomlab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 12:59:56 am
content: just pondering ...the whole purpose of using SMD is to save space (or maximize it)as SMD values increase (ie capacitor farads) ... the size also increase definately ...eg : 1206 commonly used ... goes up to about approx 10uF 50v. somewhere, you need to cross over into either something like giant 2220(5650) or SMD cans (2.2mm diam onwards)in order to save space ... has anyone actually tried to layout your SMD ... ON ITS SIDE ? ... so practically, the pads are kind of reduced by somewhat 33% - 50% ? this is especially the case for 2220 example, on its side, it actually saves about 2mm (assuming 5mm width now becomes 2.5-3mm thick) ... which seems alot if you are packing a tight board.this would of course be rather impossible for pick and placecomments please

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 01:10:45 am
content: Never done it to save space.i don't see why not, apart from the reduced mechanical strength.I have put SMD LEDs on their side to save having to purchase the slightly more expensive 'side view' ones.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 01:14:47 am
content: The primary reason for smaller components is lower cost. That includes packaging, weight, raw materials.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 01:56:42 am
content: It may not hold in the reflow oven.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 05:20:07 am
content: Some rf smd caps are put on their side to reduce stray capacitance to the ground plane. Rarely I think.

author: Evil Lurker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 08:22:41 am
content: In the case of MLCC caps it would likely cause an unacceptable rate of failure due to stress fractures caused by uneven pressure being exerted on the ends of the package when the solder cooled and subsequently contracted.In essence it would be like breaking a Kit-Kat candy bar in half.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 09:12:17 am
content: Large value ceramics up to about 1210 often have a near-square cross-section anyway so wouldn't make much difference.May be some mechanical issues, as well as difficulty of assembly of course

author: jusbour
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 11:48:02 pm
content: Honestly, for a one-off it might be ok, but there'll be all kinds of hurdles to jump through with what is basically a tombstone part. Some people will probably argue with me, but from my experience, I don't think its really worth it.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2015, 12:51:38 am
content: Quote from: VK5RC on January 05, 2015, 05:20:07 amVery common in high power RF, and a few other very high performance applications.

author: 3roomlab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2015, 02:37:57 am
content: "tombstone" package variant added to eagle footprints ...
Soldering Station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: bwclark
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 05, 2015, 11:00:48 pm
content: I want to know if this 70 Watt soldering station will be good for electronics.http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-pro-line-70w-soldering-station/6400207.html#.VSG-fyvF-SpPlease let me know as soon as possible.

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 12:43:12 am
content: Looks to be a nice station.Pay attention to the tips - make sure that they are not terribly expensive and easy to find.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 12:48:23 am
content: If you consider it a $20 throw-away, it's a good deal. If you plan to keep it a long time you should worry about where to get replacement tips and other parts. The temperature accuracy specification isn't all that good but you can probably work with it.

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 12:50:11 am
content: That one does look pretty good. I echo what was said about the tips. I had a RS solder wand that worked ok, but the only place to get tips was at RS and not every store had the correct ones in stock. The only tip offered for mine was a pointed tip, nothing else and they cost about half what the iron cost. I prefer a chisel tip and they just didn't offer one for the iron I had.Fat

author: bwclark
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 01:22:57 am
content: I watched a video and it said that some Hakko tips will fit the iron. So 70 watts is not over kill? I am a noob.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 03:47:04 am
content: It has temperature control, so 70 watts is good. It should heat up fast and be able to hold the set temperature easier. At less than $25 it's probably a pretty good deal, even better if Hakko tips will fit.

author: Derick Freese
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 04:09:10 am
content: I have it and am reasonably pleased with it. It's still on its original conical tip. I believe Ayoue was the manufacturer of these stations.