hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
filtering a output of xor-ed signal - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: tarunkumartars
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 28, 2019, 10:22:51 am
content: HELLO,I have two signal yellow and green which i'm doing an xor operation with both and now i get blue signal as an output but the problem is it has a spikes as you can see in every half period. could someone help me in removing that or any ideas?P.S i'm just playing with gates and i wanted to see if the online simulation and theoretical results matches with my hardware setup which aren't matching because of the transition spike. And here BLUE signal is my final output .thank you

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2019, 10:44:14 am
content: This is just arace condition/glitch. 0 XOR 0 = 0 and 1 XOR 1 = 0, but no two events are ever truly simultaneous in real life, so in a transition from 0 XOR 0 to 1 XOR 1, you're inevitably going to go via 1 XOR 0 or 0 XOR 1, which both equal 1. So, the circuit may briefly output a transient spike. That's the origin of the spikes in your signal; two of your inputs "simultaneously" rise, but nothing is truly simultaneous. As noted in the linked articles, these sorts of glitches can occur in real circuits, but in a proper synchronized/latched circuit, it's never an actual problem. The latches ignore the glitches, real designs don't make any effort to "filter" them out using RC circuits or anything like that.Quote from: tarunkumartars on October 28, 2019, 10:22:51 amI gotta say, if you're only concern is that the spikes cause a mismatch between simulation and theory, then:Just disregard the spikes using your brainOr use a better simulator that will show you the spikes which your circuit should and will makeOr run your circuit at 1kHz instead of 1MHz, which will make the glitches appear a thousand times thinner and less noticeable.Or, instead of using two signals with different frequencies as your input (1 MHz and 500 kHz), use two 500 kHz signals that arein quadrature. No simultaneous transitions --> no glitches.Or add synchronous latches to your circuitOr, if you really really insist, add an RC circuit with a cutoff frequency of about 5 MHz to the output. Calculators for RC circuits can be found online.On a side note, those signals look terrible. Are you connecting the ground clips of your oscilloscope probes to a reasonable ground?

author: tarunkumartars
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 28, 2019, 10:50:38 am
content: thanks for the detailed reply. would try to filter out the signal above 5mhz .yeah the ground is not so good as i used transistors to make the whole xor on a brown board

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2019, 11:04:30 am
content: Quote from: tarunkumartars on October 28, 2019, 10:22:51 amYou may want to search about "asynchronous vs synchronous digital design".What you have there is an asynchronous design. Any CLC (Combinational Logic Circuit) is asynchronous, and might generates spikes. To avoid that, turn the CLC into a synchronous design, by adding latches (simple D type flip-flops will do it) and a common clock that drives the whole logic.
Filtering audible noise from car USB chargers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gsuberland
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2017, 04:15:55 pm
content: I've been having trouble with what seems to be alternator noise on my car stereo when using the AUX jack and USB charger on my phone. With just the phone connected to AUX and the charger disconnected, everything sounds fine. When I connect the charger I get a high-pitched whine that matches engine RPM. I've tried multiple cigarette-lighter chargers and my current one is a pricey one from Anker that has been reviewed very well, and it did reduce the amplitude of the noise somewhat, but it's very noticeable and annoying. I'd estimate that the audible noise is around 2-5KHz, which I guess coincides with engine RPM.I'm trying to work out the best way to fix this. My first thought is to put a set of capacitors over the 12V input supply with values climbing in decades (e.g. 0.1uF, 1uF, 10uF, 100uF) as a hacky filtering solution, but I'm not sure that'll be enough. Another way to go is an inverter stage so that I can use galvanic isolation, but that seems like overkill for a car charger. Any ideas?

author: Bratster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2017, 05:02:57 pm
content: It's probably ground Loop noise as opposed to power noise.Grab a cheap ground Loop isolator meant for car audio and use it in line on your aux input.Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

author: gsuberland
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2017, 05:26:55 pm
content: I did consider a GLI, but I've tried GLIs on other equipment before and found them to be useless. Might give it a go though as a last-ditch attempt.

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2017, 05:40:22 pm
content: Partially pull the charger from the 12v outlet so that the ground contacts are connected, but not +12. If you still get the whine, it's a ground loop. Either add isolation somewhere along the path, or try bonding the ground of the outlet to the radio chassis better.Also make sure the ground lead from the car battery to frame and it's connections are in good condition, along with the grounding strap from the engine block to frame.
Filtering automotive power to a clean 12 Vdc - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jmw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2018, 01:14:22 am
content: This is a revisit of similar previous topic @https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/powering-arduino-and-switches-from-12v-automotive-battery/msg677893I want to power a Particle Electron module, with a datasheet typical power consumption of 130 mA. It has a integrated Buck converter on its PMIC, so I can feed it 12 Vdc. I sketched up this circuit as an idea for clamping and filtering automotive power:I wasn't too sure of how to choose the parameters of the LC filter, so I searched around and found an someone's example (http://linuxcar.sone.jp/reg.en.html) where L=150 uH and C=1000 uH were chosen. This has a cutoff frequency at 411 Hz and a characteristic impedance of .39 Ω, so it needs to draw 30 A current to get the filter resonance down to Q = 1.With a Electron-sized load, that filter will yield output p-p ripple up to almost 24 V on a 12 V step input. Plugging numbers to L and C for the same cutoff frequency and a characteristic impedance of (12 V / 130 mA) = 92 Ω, this requires a laughably huge L = 36 mH. That's not really practical, so I'm stuck trying to design a low-ripple filter for this.How can I get a better passive filter for this sized load?Is the cutoff frequency of ~400 Hz reasonable for automotive power or is there a better choice?
Filtering input of MAX9611 high side current sensor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: aberco
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2013, 10:23:36 pm
content: Dear everybody,I'm running in a hardware question regarding a power-meter project using a integrated high side current sensor.I have decided to go for the MAX9611 which is a "plug and play" I2C device, and have completed the project which is running nicely. I have followed religiously the datasheet so that the A/D conversion is computed in software and displayed exactly as specified. I used a 10mOhms shunt resistor wired properly (2 fat traces for the current path, and 2 fine traces running from the resistor to the MAX9661). Prototype all mounted on a PCB.1) When the input of the shunt are left floating, values measured for I and U (common mode voltage) are erratic. What would be the best way to clamp the shunt in order to get a steady 0 when left floating? I tried putting 1MOhms to ground on each terminals of the shunt, which fixes the readings for U, but not really for I.2) When grounded, I do not get a true "0" output on the ADC. I could fix that using an offset in software though, if that is normal. I don't know yet if my readings compare well to a calibrated multimeter.Any help would be appreciated

author: aberco
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2013, 12:33:23 pm
content: A little more brainstorming on my project which seems to give quite good readings whatsoever. I have attached a picture of the project measuring current through a 100ohms load.I have looked at possible filtering on the shunt in order to get more stable readings. The datasheet only show direct connexion of the MAX9661 to the shunt but adding a filtering network could possibly help in having more stable readings when the consumption of the load is fluctuating. Only problem would be to carefully match the values of both Rf, which may otherwise degrade significantly the measuring accuracy.Also adding D would be important for inductive load, but would limit low voltage measurement capabilityHave not yet managed to fix readings that are not zeroed when load or input are left floating.

author: sean87
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2017, 09:33:23 am
content: Please don't ban me for bringing up this threadFor keeping the reading at 0 when floating, one solution is to get the raw reading out of I2C when the sense terminals are grounded and see the raw ADC output, then compensate for it in software.It is not possible to make it in the analog world exactly 0 (AFAIK).
Final Engineering Project Question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: nick.sek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2012, 04:33:26 pm
content: I've decided to design a variable frequency drive - and incorperate a soft start and soft stop feature. Other than controlling the frequency and soft start/stopwhat else should I put into it - in the sense of control?Or is there any other ideas for motor control?I was thinking of displays displaying set frequency and actual and other such common things... but what else to place in this marvel?Any help would be awesomeThanksNickCheck out my latest video, attempting to make a robot screw on a coupling:http://youtu.be/eCWNLepyXwM

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 02, 2012, 04:48:40 pm
content: what sort of motor are you driving ?

author: nick.sek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2012, 04:50:39 pm
content: 3/4 HP single phase motor of my wood lathe - is ultimately what I want to use it for... I really want to be able to use this project in the future

author: muvideo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2012, 05:19:32 pm
content: Slip and instant torque feedbackAgoodAC induction motor speed controller is quite a challenge and thereis a lot of work to do. Starting form a simple V/f control you can implement things likespace vector modulation up to vector control, in incremental steps.The final target is something that can sense and control the torque even formlow or null angular speed, this can be reused in many applications like robotics and cnc,where commercial hardware is still costly.Microchip and atmel have many appnotes about this.Fabio.
Find a semiconductor Datasheet search, SMD Marking Web site - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gscsxys
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 03, 2012, 10:40:51 am
content: semiconductor search, SMD Markinghttp://www.838dz.com/e/search/result/?searchid=14271http://semiconductor.838dz.com/search.htmlTransistor Zener Diode-MOSFET-IGBT-CAPACITANCE DIODE-IGBT-Frequency Diode Search--PIN-,SCHOTTKY Diode,SWITCHING DiodeDon't forget to thank me

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2012, 12:20:27 pm
content: Is there an English version?Regards

author: gscsxys
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 03, 2012, 12:26:30 pm
content: Click on the red the appropriate link in EnglishCan everyone search the devices normally?Any other questions?

author: qwer88
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 06, 2012, 01:26:37 pm
content: How comes that I can't use the bearing search?How does everyone use it?Could you please tell me about it?

author: DmitryL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2012, 03:54:56 pm
content: You can try here as wellhttp://caxapa.ru/codebook/It is in Russian thoughYou can translate it with any service into English, but basically you just need to enter smd component marking (you can use wildcards) into the edit field and hit a button.It also allows you to filter by package type..Example:http://caxapa.ru/codebook/?search=2A
Find out a Youtube video of reducing EMI on a chinese DC/DC converter LM2596 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Houseman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2025, 09:20:52 pm
content: Hi Forum.I am searching for video I swore I saw on Youtube a couple of years ago where an EMC expert (think it's MachOne EMC channel) takes these common DC/DC buck converters based on LM2596 you can find them plenty for a couple of bucks, and by reworking partially the PCB and adding some filtering capacitor at the input reduces significantly the conducted emission that he first measured.It was a very interesting way for hands-on for such a topic.I went through all my history of Youtube, saw all MachOne EMC channel but nothing.Such a topic is also presented by Richtek herehttps://www.richtek.com/Design%20Support/Technical%20Document/AN045,another great article to sudy on.Any help really appreciated.Thank You all.Regards

author: temperance
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2025, 10:26:48 pm
content: There are quite a lot of those. Any problem you are trying to solve?Here is one from WE:On their channel you can find a lot more.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2025, 10:40:19 pm
content: https://mach1design.co.uk/https://mach1design.co.uk/dc-dc-converter-trouble-shooting-casehttps://emccompliance.co.uk/emc-case-studies

author: daisizhou
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2025, 12:35:43 am
content: Quote from: Houseman on March 25, 2025, 09:20:52 pmIn my opinion，If you mean the cheap bought aliexp LM2596,And try to reduce EMI,The final effect is not satisfactory.Because the cheap LM2596 is suitable for industrial or hobbyist use,And the PCB layout is not reasonable.Adding filtering or filters does not fundamentally reduce EMI

author: Houseman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2025, 08:39:12 am
content: YEP! This was!!!!hosted by Feranec!!!!! Than's why I did not find it on MachOne Design channel!!!Thanks Pal!!!
Find settling time for n-pole Butterworth, Chebychev etc - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: 741
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2018, 02:11:32 pm
content: I'd like to juggle settling time vs sample rate and number of poles for an anti-aliasing filter. If I can use a formula, then I can enter lots of trial values into Excel.For an 1 pole RC, we have Vc = V( 1 - e^(-t/(RC)) ) --> t = RC.ln(V/(V-Vc))How do I calculate (ideally) or simulate in a short time the settling time of say a 4-pole 5Hz MFB Butterworth filter? (I guess the result would differ for say a Chebychev?)If I use a simulator, would it speed the simulation up if I scale things to 5kHz then 'work back to 5Hz' somehow? Or, is this a false path because the simulator will automatically choose an appropriate timestep?I'd like to know how long it takes a 1V step to settle to within (for instance) 1/1000 of a volt.

author: rhb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2018, 02:27:41 pm
content: The settling time is the minimum phase waveform with the same frequency function. I suggest using Octave rather than Excel.A=filter amplitude spectrumB=Hilbert transform of Ab = inverse FFT of Bb is the time domain response of the filter.
Find thermal resistance given surface area etc & material properties - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: 741
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2024, 07:48:16 am
content: We have inherited a design that uses a length of aluminium T-section as a heatsink.I'd like to know if I can calculate Rth given the heatsink's physical dimensions plus the physical properties of aluminium and surface finish (plain).PS. Sure, I can measure Rth here, but I'd still like to be able to calculate the value.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2024, 09:21:30 am
content: Most of the heat is dissipated by conduction (to the air), not by radiation. So, the shape of the radiator and the speed of the air flow are more important than the area or volume/mass. I doubt any realistic result can be found by calculating.If you have the old radiator, would be easier to just measure the Rth, or try to find its exact part number and datasheet specs.

author: 741
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2024, 11:59:06 am
content: Assuming a unit length and constant cross-sectionFor low electrical resistance:Maximise cross-sectional area.For low Rth (thermal resistance):Maximise surface area.So it seems the figure of merit I need is the thermal resistance of unit area for the given heatsink material.

author: KerimF
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2024, 12:34:09 pm
content: Quote from: RoGeorge on October 18, 2024, 09:21:30 amYes, this is the most important.Once, a customer told me that my 1K inverter was damaged for no reason. It turned out that he put it in a small closet as a sort of protection, and it was summertime.

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2024, 09:32:47 pm
content: Quote from: RoGeorge on October 18, 2024, 09:21:30 amIndeed, and the performance can vary significantly with the operating environment. This also makes datasheet numbers for heatsinks somewhat suspect, since the actual environment will inevitably differ from the test environment in some key ways.If the T-section is also a mechanical component that is fastened to other mechanical components, those connections may be thermally significant as well.
Finding a good graphic LCD - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 09, 2010, 08:43:13 pm
content: Does anyone know a good graphic LCD to use.128x128, 128x64, Hi-Res, Blue Back-light: wanting to know a controller to use on LCD. ex: HD4470I am running this off 12V & 2A Rechargeable Batteries, and using a EXAR Function Generator Chip into a Arduino MEGA128 to calculate the frequency + load current. So LCD => 30mA.

author: TheDirty
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2010, 08:57:54 pm
content: Size? Resolution? Power use? Built in controller?

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 10, 2010, 03:56:34 am
content: Any of these should work a treat:http://www.newhavendisplay.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=21_96The display takes like 200uA or so, it's the LED backlight that chews the power. I've run those displays with 5mA backlight current and it's still usable.Dave.

author: migsantiago
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2010, 01:07:55 pm
content: I bought this one:http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=569It's a Nokia 6100 color LCD with 128x128 pixels and it's controlled via SPI. You can build a buck-up supply to get 6V out of 3.3V and feed the LEDs. Its connector is very small and is a bit challenging to solder.If you can't solder it you can get a break board that has it already soldered and also contains the buck-up supply.http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8600The bad thing about the breakout board is that it consumes 300mA or so.There are libraries everywhere to control this LCD.
Finding a reputable developer in Ontario, Canada - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: PbFoot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2012, 09:29:51 pm
content: Hi,I have developed a design that I wish to market as a for profit venture. I am looking for a person or company to help me complete the design. I already have an established company, and I'm not looking for a partner or investment. I just want to hire someone to assist with finalizing the design.The device itself is quite simple, all analog, no micro controller.It has some optical elements involved, and thats not my area of expertise. Also, the electronic design, although working, might benefit from some critical analysis by someone with more electronics knowledge than myself.I will also need schematics capture, PCB and industrial design.I see there are plenty of firms around that do this kind of work, but since I am a small player with a small budget I fear that I will not get the time and attention I need from a big company. Therefore I don't want to spin the wheel of misfortune and pick from the web or phonebook without knowing what I am choosing.Can anyone recommend a firm or individual close to Toronto, Canada that is reputable?Thanks for your opinions!- PbFoot

author: rstor22
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2012, 11:31:46 pm
content: You might want to checkout the following site:http://www.taylorhobby.com/They seem like they would cater to a small business. I cannot attest to their reputation however as I have never dealt with them before.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 05, 2012, 06:12:40 am
content: Didn't someone ask exactly this same question a while ago?
finding a schematic for a cirtain board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: carbon dude oxide
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 11:57:15 am
content: Hello,im currently doing a college project which involves a raspberry pi with a 7" sainsmart tft touch screen display connected to it.The LCD itself is prety good but comes with this massive HDMI to LVDS/TTL display output which is quite generic.the board in question is this one:are there any known schematics for this board?reason being is that i would like to redesign it so that i can remove the inverter, vga, s-video and all the various other connectors in which i do not use so that i can shrink the board down to a minimal size to be able to fit it all in a case.it will also allow me to redesign its power supply so that it is able to supply the pi and the LCD from the same power source (a battery pack).does anyone know if this schematic exists anywhere?thanks.

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 03:57:28 pm
content: This boardmight be useful for you.

author: carbon dude oxide
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2015, 03:57:08 pm
content: Is there a similar board to that but instead of having the LVDS output pins is there one that has the 50Pin TTL connector (Number 12 in original post image - im unsure of the name of that connector unfortunatly)

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2015, 04:30:35 pm
content: Seepinout of RTD2662 here, anddatasheet of the related RTD2660, andthis schematic of an RTD2660-based monitorfor some ideas.There'sthis Russian site (use Google Translate if you can't read)which could have some useful info too.I've attached a schematic of an RTD2662 TV that I foundhere.
Finding a serial interface on Arlec smart light bulbs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: SmurfKiller
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2020, 09:35:55 pm
content: G'day, I have been playing around this cheap Arlec smart light bulb (rebranded tuya) found in my local bunnings. and i wanted to reflash the firmware.After opening it up i found this header, see attached photo. the pins seem to be labeled + w c con b r any idea what it could be? Kind of hoping that it is some sort of factory programing port.My next step would be to break out the dremel and sacrifice one to trace them back, but i thought i might try my luck here

author: TheMG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2020, 12:34:46 am
content: That is the connector taking power from the driver board to the LEDs."CON" just means connector.+ is positive (common)W- is negative for warm white LEDsC- is for cold whiteR- is redB- is blueG- is greenYou can see that it is a female connector on the LED board, with pins connecting to it from the driver board in the base of the bulb.Further disassembly will be required to get at the programming contacts (if they exist).

author: SmurfKiller
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2020, 03:05:10 am
content: Dam, thanks. would of been too easy...I know it has esp8266, so i just need to get to the TX RX, time to break out the dremel.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2020, 05:47:22 am
content: (Edit: Oops, same answer as what TheMG already wrote)You can see the square pins inside the connector.The ESP is also at a 90 degree angle to the front, so it is a 2 PCB solution.That 6 pin connector is very likely the only connection between the PCB's.A programming connector is also unlikely, because that would be on the PCB with the ESP.

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2020, 01:55:03 pm
content: I don't think you need a Dremel, just a pocket knife to cut away the silicone bead.The front PCB should pull right off.It's not even destructive.
finding correct USB-C charging module for 12.8v 3a Battery - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Sirigon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 06, 2021, 11:47:56 pm
content: Hello, I am very new to this forum and hope someone of you could help me with my project.Just to make clear from the beginning, I am a Programmer and don't know very much about circuits and electronics.My project idea is to make a portable digital frame, with a battery that can be charged.The software part is not a problem, but I struggle to find the right hardware parts, so my project can run from a battery, so I can charge it by using a USB-C cable. This is my very first hardware project. I attached a document with a rough scheme of the hardware components and how I believe it should all work together. The question is as followed: I need to find a correct USB-C charging module, so I can charge my 12.8v Battery pack. I thought of something like a TC4056A. But I think that it will be not enough to charge my 12.8v Battery. I looked on the internet but could not find a fitting module. I was hoping one of you could help me find a fitting module for my battery pack.Thank you in advance

author: antimatter503
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2021, 12:30:30 am
content: Instead of searching for charging module try looking for LiFePO4 BMS module. BMS stands for battery management system

author: Sirigon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 07, 2021, 06:50:40 am
content: Thank you for your quick reply, the Battery I have already has a BMS
Finding Good Quality 1&2 W Carbon Compostion Resistors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: KJ-90
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2017, 06:00:27 pm
content: I am wondering if anyone knows of a good source for 1 and 2 watt carbon composition resistors, which as we know are no longer being made. The issue of "good source" is a company that only sells resistors that have not substantially drifted out of their 5% tolerance. As we know, carbon composition resistors gradually absorb moisture from the atmosphere, which causes their resistance to drift substantially, even for parts merely left in climate controlled storage. I have seen some carbon composition resistors that have drifted more than 10% above the rated value- for example, a 130K resistor that was close to 140K. The issue that I have is finding a company that tests their stock to prevent this. Also, does anyone know which vintage brands drifted the least over time?I have also read that some people are able to fix the drift issue by drying the resistors out by heating them in an 80 Deg. C oven for ten hours, then sealing them in a tight container until they cool down. After that, they seal the resistor by dipping it into a conformal coating. Of course, the dried coating on the leads is simply removed with solvent before use. However, I haven't tried the above procedure to see if it actually works.Another question I have concerns the Japanese company Arcol which still makes CC resistors in 1\4 and 1\2 w sizes. About six months ago, most of their retail distributors had almost all of the standard 5% decade values in stock. The prices per resistor were quite reasonable. However, all of them have discontinued many major standard values ( one company cut its range of 1\4w and 1\2w available values almost in half ). Yet, Arcol still makes all the values, according to their site. Some other sites have all standard 5% values available, but only in 1\2w type. Does anyone know of a company that sells the full range of Arcol standard 5% 1\4w and 1\2w types? I haven't been able to find one. There are alternatives like Stackpole and Ohmite still making the full 5% range in both wattages, but they are much more expensive.
Finding HDMI to MIPI bridge IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: endlessmind
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 17, 2019, 01:37:40 pm
content: Hi.Not sure this is the correct part of this forum, but i'll give it a go.I've been looking at getting the Toshiba TC358870XBG to interface with a 5.5" 1080 phone display over HDMI for a project at work.But it has been a mess trying to get a datasheet that has application example and the register setup for configuration the DSI MIPI protocol.The official datasheet do not contain these.When i finally got hold of Toshiba, they sent me the official datasheet and told me the product is EOL.So, now I'm wondering if anyone knows of any similar IC here I can actually get a hold of the full datasheet.It's not a problem if the datasheet is under NDA as this is work related.The only requirement of the interface is that it can do HDMI to DSI MIPI.Thanks in advance.

author: robint91
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2019, 01:42:04 pm
content: Try Lontium,http://www.lontiumsemi.com/product/View_23.htmlThey are quite responsive, I had the datasheet and reference schematic in almost 1 day.
Finding Metamaterial Manufacturer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ruhe
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 10:06:41 am
content: Hi everyone,Currently, I am working on "Metamaterial inspired Antennas". I am looking for any company (preferably in UK) which could help me with manufacturing metamaterials structures. I have attached design specification here.Any suggestion is appreciated.Many Thanks,

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 10:47:18 am
content: Just google for PCB Rogers site:uk and start asking for quotes? (As well as roger, 7pcb and rushpcb misspelled it like you.) Nothing you want seems really outside of the capability of PCB manufacturing companies.
Finding out the Current of a step down transformer  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: GoatZero
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2014, 07:27:05 am
content: Im designing my own variable power supplyI bought this custom made transformer using my multimeter i know it gives 48Vac from the sides and 24 if using any side and mid wiresTo do the rest of my calculations i need to know how many amps can i pull from it, its supposed to be 3A (thats what the seller said) however i would love to know if there is a practical way to find out how many amps can it really give without overheathingthe pic its the actual transformer its quite beffy,the problem its that it is a custom transformer so it doesnt have any numbers

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2014, 07:31:31 am
content: Quote from: GoatZero on January 29, 2014, 07:27:05 amThe only accurate way to know is to give it a load, ideally an adjustable dummy load, so you can monitor the voltage drop and it's temperature.
Finding part numbers from component markings - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Single_Perf
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 03, 2013, 09:07:11 am
content: A few times lately I have been having some difficulty with identifying components based on there markings or whatever is stamped on the part. This mainly relates to surface mount parts.For example today I was trying to identify a mini-SOIC8 sized part which was most likely a headphone driver or small power amp. With the markings MDAB and on the second line G10.I searched for ages using various combinations but couldn’t find a part number.Does anybody know of a database that these component markings can be searched to find the part number ?Or is there a way to decode them, maybe the letters refer to a manufacturer etc etc...
finding problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: amirkargar110
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2017, 09:28:39 am
content: helloI have a BLDC speed controller.it has three mosfet driver , and 6 mosfets.all mosfet driver low sides outputs are the same and 12 volts(in on condition).(acc to shematic=G-AL)but in mosfet driver high sides 2 outputs are 24 volt(from the circuit main ground) and one of them is 12 volt(in on condition)..(acc to shematic=G-AH)which of them(high side outputs) voltage is correct?and which that is faulty what can be the cause of it? and how can I repair itthe schematic and pcb files are attached.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2017, 09:34:53 am
content: Convert whatever those documents are to PDF or an image, and i can have a look,The low side drivers should pull the coil wire to 0V when on, and the high side drivers should pull it to VCC when on, when both are off, i would expect it may float around 12VWith no power, are any mosfets short circuited, replace the motor with some resistors, (delta arrangement), pick higher values, like 10K, and measure if any of the pairs are higher or lower on idle, it may indicate one side is leaking, or one side is open circuit. similarly when driven high or low, does its voltage reflect this?
Finding schematic diagram of this Arduino project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rizlesz2000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2023, 12:59:16 pm
content: so I wanted to make this watchhttps://hackaday.io/project/190338-esp32-dual-screen-watch-v2as I want to make it badly and has extra functions like gps, accelerometer etc anyway. I brought the components as per the listing in this website. And they cost high in my country. But I couldn't find the schematics. I searched everywhere for a day to find the diagram but couldn't. So can anyone help me with the connections of this project as I brought everything for a high price But there is Arduino program posted in the page. Any ideas?

author: voltsandjolts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 09, 2023, 01:12:07 pm
content: There probably isn't any schematic, his stuff looks lashed together from random proto-boards / demo-boards. Your best way forward is likely to look through the firmware and determine which ports/pins are connected to the diferent peripherals (screen, button, accelerometer etc).

author: rizlesz2000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2023, 01:50:10 pm
content: the program does not helped me that much. i just only got the display pinout and not sure abt it (also i don't know much about this board and don't wanna mess it
Finding SSD controller chips? Want to build a high speed USB3 thumb drive. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rwgast_lowlevellogicdesin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2017, 07:37:59 pm
content: So I have a few USB3 thumb drives around, when I bought them I thought oh ya now I can run an OS on a thumb drive and have access times of an internal drive. Well that wasn't true as I am sure most of you know, even my more expensive brand name USB 3 flash drives arent very much faster than a USB2 drive.I did some research and turns out the reason the USB3 sticks arent very fast has to do with the flash controller they use. There are a few drives out there that advertise that they use an SSD controller and there speeds rival an internal SSD. They are pretty pricey though... Paying $200 for a 256mb flash chip and a controller seems a bit ridiculous, I figure a flash drive is pretty simple and should be easy enough to build. I got online searching for SSD controller chips with no luck, does an SSD controller chip go buy another name? Does anyone know of a controller that is hopefully not BGA, and maybe has USB support built in? I would guess if you had to you could connect the SSD controller to a transceiver like the FX3?

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2017, 09:28:00 pm
content: No, you're unlikely to find them, and even if you do, it would be hard to find firmware and initialize the flash memory chips and everything else you need.You're more likely to find some USB 3 to SATA bridge chip, in fact there are already enclosures that look like usb sticks but inside have just usb 3 - sata chip and a dc-dc converter (because m.2 uses 3.3v) and connector for m.2 ssd so you connect the m.2 ssd and it shows up as usb mass storage device
Finding the correct connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: paul23
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2016, 09:33:24 pm
content: I am working on a project where I need to extend the cable that plugs into a third party device. I've successfully managed to find the female connector that plugs into the third party device, but I can't find the correct male socket. The nearest I found was a DF3-9EP-2C by Hirose. This is really close but a little bit too big so it doesn't hold the female plug properly and it's too loose.I've looked on Mouser, Digikey and Farnell and the Hirose one is the only one that is close to what I need. Has anyone got any tips on finding something suitable?What I need is a male socket with wire crimp termination and 2mm pitch. The plug that mates with it is 18.65mm w x 3.6mm h x 5.4mm d.ThanksPaul
finding the design dates of various ICs? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 12:02:35 pm
content: So is anyone else frustrated by how IC companies do not like to say when a product was developed?Is there some kind of data base?

author: jeroen74
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 06:45:38 pm
content: Why is it important?

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 07:50:05 pm
content: I suppose if you want to build something and use new parts?If it's JEDEC part number then the company selling it may not be the company that designed it.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 08:09:31 pm
content: why do you need such info ?there isno way to find out. even the marking on the dies itself is only the mask datecode... and masks have a finit life as well

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 09:15:34 pm
content: I am just interested when the engineers came up with something, when was that part cutting edge.I don't see why they can't write "linear technology engineers designed this part in 1994 and it went to production 1995"I figure that you can follow the advertizements but I wonder why its so cloak and dagger.

author: jeroen74
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 10:51:03 pm
content: The part numbering system at Lineary Technology seems quite sequential. A LT1xxxx is definitely much older then a LTx6xxx part. Some parts get their own design note which is dated. Datasheets usually are also dated.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 05:44:31 pm
content: TI openly writes information like this on the datasheet:"SLOS075I –NOVEMBER 1979–REVISED APRIL 2009"But I just love those old unreadable datasheets which were scanned from somewhere.
Finding the linear portion of an opamp output - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AlfBaz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2013, 03:30:09 am
content: Currently I'm simulating a single supply inverting opamp (Ideally I'd like non-inverting but I don't know how to get "fractional" gain with one)The input spans from 0V to Vcc, which is also the supply volts for the opamp and its not rail to rail.The output starts off flat, then goes into a linear transfer section and flattens out again.I want to limit the input span to the linear region of the output, is there an easy way to determine that?Keep in mind that when I bread-board this I'll collect actual values and want to do the same to these pointsI'm using ltspice and can export the data and graph it in an external program such asGraphor excelThe only method that springs to mind at the moment is take 2 points in the middle of the linear section, creating a linear equation for them and then checking the deviation of the actual values from the derived lineAre there any simple methods I'm missing or is my circuit fundamentally flawed

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2013, 03:47:16 am
content: Add a tracev(VCC) - v(Vin) - v(Vout)It will be zero in the linear region - you decide how far away from 0 is non linear and measure those points.A 'fractional non-inverting amplifier' is just a voltage divider which you can buffer with a unity gain op-amp if you need to.

author: AlfBaz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2013, 05:22:18 am
content: Quote from: Rufus on June 09, 2013, 03:47:16 amExcellentThe only down side to this is having to measure 3 voltages simultaneously on the bread board assuming some drift in Vcc. I guess it depends on how much accuracy I need, haven't gotten that far yetI do have a scanning card on my hp3457A and I just checked, those relays change over really quick when I drop the NPLC. I would need to run some tests to see what effects this would have on the adc if the voltages on each channel where very different.With that amount of work it might just pay to just sample the output and extrapolate linearity from the middle of the span.Nevertheless love the elegance of your solution
Finding the right analogue switch? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dzseki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2019, 10:35:30 am
content: I’m in need for an analog switch (SPDT, or SPST) for switching wide bandwidth analog signals, the signal is bipolar, but not symmetrically, ie. varies between -100mV and say +1V.I am tempted to use single supply switches as well either as-is, or perhaps shift the GND pin to -0.6V (by a single diode), and I may translate the logic levels accordingly (if it is needed at all).-Because the source impedance is 75 Ohm so the switch should have low (on) input capacitance: <10pF-The on resistance should be as low as possible: <50 Ohm-Switching speed is not critical: <100ns-Bandwidth: >500MHzRegarding the bandwidth, I want my bandwidth at the output of the switch, I expect the load on the switch output to be 1M Ohm||4pF worst case, hence my requirement on the low resistance.I have been looking at these sofar:-ADG1233: it falis at the low on resistance requirement (>120 Ohm), but should be OK.-TS12A44514: it fails in low input capacitance criteria (>19pF)-TMUX154E: it would meet all criteria, but this switch is not meant to used with analog signals, so I am hesitnant on this model yet...

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2019, 11:19:53 am
content: Quote from: dzseki on June 06, 2019, 10:35:30 amWhy do you say it's not designed for analog signals? Looks like a high bandwidth analog switch to me.

author: dzseki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2019, 11:40:51 am
content: Well, they simply don’t mention analog signals in the datasheet at all, nor they give distortion specs, while the other mentioned datasheets are containing these, so I got suspicious, that’s all.

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2019, 04:52:25 pm
content: Would the ADG633 fit your requirements?

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2019, 06:55:49 pm
content: Vishay DG417/418/419.

author: dzseki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2019, 08:06:28 pm
content: Thank you.Yes, I was already looking at the ADG633 and it meets all my criteria, but barely, I'd be happy to find something better.The DG417/8/9 has way too much input capacitance (30pF)

author: OwO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2019, 04:21:42 am
content: You might want to characterize some CMOS or GaAs RF switches, especially the ones that say "no decoupling caps needed on all ports", because from my tests these all can work down to DC. They are designed for signals centered on 0V, so should be able to pass signals between -5V and +5V if the switch is rated for 0.5W (27dBm) for example. The MXD8625 might be able to do what you want, the only spec it doesn't meet is the switching time (2us instead of 100ns).
Finding the schematic HDMI this product. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: kjh14121412
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 21, 2015, 12:26:46 am
content: I would like to know pcb800099-v.9Would like to have a schematic of the proposed productIf you know the datasheet or circuit for HDMI SplitterPlease suggest to me

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 21, 2015, 12:39:35 am
content: Do you expect we hand you schematic on a silver platter while showing just a low resolution image without telling actual model and what it is at all?

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2015, 04:37:59 am
content: 42

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2015, 06:01:25 am
content: I have what you want. Send me cash and we'll talk.

author: IonizedGears
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 06:14:18 pm
content: Setting aside you looking for schematics that are probably private to some company, that looks nothing like an HDMI splitter. It only has one HDMI port and a keyboard input.~Ionized Gears

author: elgonzo
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 06:47:53 pm
content: It's not a HDMI splitter.It is a LVDS LCD controller.

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 09:20:41 pm
content: Its one of those things you buy on eBay to (re-)use laptops displays with HDMI(and also VGA and DVI variants existing), its almost a breakout pcb for the middle chip, and by the symbol it appears to be made by Realtek.There is also a programming interface, some eBay vendors ask for the specific lcd/panel model so they program the right program/definitions so it works out of the box.