hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Broken AM-535 multimeter  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rowny
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 24, 2022, 02:22:00 pm
content: Hi all. I got a broken multimeter Amprobe AM-535, and I thought I could ask in this forum for help. Turns on, but it can't measure anything on the V input. From what I know, it is damaged by high voltage. I could identify one damaged component at this input, and it looks like a resistor. What would be the value? If I replace it, maybe it will work again.Thank you for the help!

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2022, 10:06:30 pm
content: That resistor is very commonly a special fusible type, typically 1 k Ω in value, it is possible to get it but the postage charges can be silly from many sellers!However there is this one :–https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254304994006?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=YRTmJau9QrW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=qNpFa7hUTgy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY. . .It might be cheaper to buy a similar looking meter from AliExpress and use it for spare parts!Chris Williams

author: Hamelec
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2022, 10:14:03 pm
content: insert a standard 1k resistor - if the multimeter is working look for a proper replacement of the resistor.Otherwise throw it into the bin..

author: rowny
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 02, 2022, 02:54:56 pm
content: I placed a 0.47k /2W and it seems to work fine. The via fell out and I had to scratch and solder to the trace directly...it's a bit nasty, but at least it's working again

author: Hamelec
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2022, 03:15:30 pm
content: ok, but for for safety reasons you should look for a better (orginal) replacement..
Broken Aorus GTX 1080ti. Seeking help with missing component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: vazza10
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 09, 2020, 01:49:21 am
content: hi, i have a gigabyte gtx 1080ti extreme which i need help finding out what component is in this position. it ripped off when i took the back plate off but wasnt just ripped off it totally shattered so i cant read the markings on it. from what i can gather its some sort of mosfet or gate of some sort as its markings is U. U551 is the component.thanks
Broken Cap - unknown value - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: kvviingu
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 06, 2019, 10:48:12 am
content: Hello!I am new to electronics and I had problem, where my TV stopped working. Backlight was okay, sound was fine but TV blinked error code stating: T-Con failure.Without much thinking I decided to disassemble TV and take a look at this T-con board.I noticed shattered cap, no continuity. I desoldered it from PCB and wanted to figure out replacement part and hell started.T-Con model is BM41-01797A aka. FHD-60Hz-V03, broken capacitor (CG02) was next to I7939A (at bottom N227NPY) chip that I also couldn't find any data sheet regarding it's usage and pinout (I guess it's a voltage regulator) so I can't really figure out what the hell is going on here.I attach picture of the T-Con with spot on where the cap was:Thanks in advance for any help

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2019, 11:05:41 am
content: I'd measure the capacitance of other capacitors of similar size and height. I suspect it's something like 4.7uF .. 10uFI think there's two ceramic capacitors in parallel somewhere in the bottom left corner in your last picture, I think C29 and C47If they're really in parallel ... I don't think it would hurt anything to desolder one, measure the capacitance and solder it to your missing location as an experiment to see what happens.The circuit at the bottom may require the capacitance of those two capacitors in parallel so your tv could act funky / glitchy / whatever, but at least you'd see if you still get that T-Con failure error.

author: kvviingu
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 06, 2019, 11:47:36 am
content: Hi, thanks for your reply!Well, before I read it i just went YOLO and soldered some random capacitor from old HDD controller board and... it workedThanks anyway, that was my 1st PCB "repair" and I could get new t-con for like $7
Broken connector on U-TEC UL1 Lock - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: billchurch
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 08:39:28 pm
content: This is some kind of connector, not exactly flex but close to that kind. It goes onhttps://support.u-tec.com/hc/en-us/categories/360000196171-ULTRALOQ-UL1-Combo, snapped off when I was trying to remove it. I can't for the life of me tell what it is... Any thoughts?- Surface mount- Seems like 0.050" / 1.27mm pitch- 12 positions, single rowhttps://imgur.com/a/FtRVEMB

author: MarkT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 08:47:42 pm
content: Should be able to reflow it straight back on as no pads have lifted...

author: billchurch
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 09:11:41 pm
content: The metal pins all broke from the connector. They’re still on the board unfortunately.

author: billchurch
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 07, 2024, 12:21:17 pm
content: The closest I've found so far is here, but the pitch is wrong and the connector mating pins aren't right...https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/jst-sales-america-inc/SM12B-PASS-TBT/2771906?0=%2Fheaders-male-pins&s=N4IgjCBcoLQKxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDaIATCALoC%2BthVk5AygLJgUBCMACgIIsWNWkAI've been trying to fiddle with my search and looking at related data-sheets but keep coming up short.I do have a Support case in with U-Tec and they're looking to see if they have spare boards available but I also asked them to reach out to engineering to see if they can just tell me what connector that is... Fingers crossed, I'm sure it's an odd request for them.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2024, 06:33:21 pm
content: Quote from: billchurch on April 06, 2024, 08:39:28 pmCould it be 1.25mm pitch? It sure looks like it could be JST GH:Product page:https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/index.php?series=105Datasheet:https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eGH.pdf?6614377b956cc
Broken Ecoflow Delta // Want to follow along on my repair journey? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: outverter
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 25, 2022, 04:13:01 pm
content: Hello EEVblog forum members, new joiner here 👋Recently I purchased a broken EcoFlow Delta (https://www.ecoflow.com/us/delta-portable-power-station) portable power station off a local auction site. The price was good, and my gamble is that I can get it repaired for a modest amount of extra cash, hopefully ending up with a product that would otherwise have costed me an order of magnitude more.I want to know if there is an appetite in this community to follow along while I attempt this repair work?More importantly: I am by no means an expert in this field. I know my way around a soldering iron, and I have a couple of small electronics projects and repairs under my belt, but I have never attempted something at this scale before. I would sincerely appreciate the advice and assistance from the masters in this community. I am keen to learn and improve my electronics knowledge and skills along the way.I'm fully aware that what I want to attempt is risky. I'm dealing with a 1.3KWh lithium battery, and an inverter circuit capable of outputting more than 3KW peak. I don't want to destroy myself, my tools or my device under test (in that order of preference, if possible!). This is why I want to do this repair under the watchful eye of a master. To help and guide me along the way.I am in contact with EcoFlow customer support, and I have obtained the contact details of their service center that's local to me. As a last resort, I can send the unit in to them for repairs. But for reasons that will become apparent in the future, I would like to avoid this. And also, sending a broken device in for repairs is infinitely less fun than attempting the repair myself.So before I post any more, I would like to know what the rest of the community thinks? Am I welcome here, and will my contributions be useful/valuable to the forum in general? Or should I not bother and just attempt the repair alone, or send it in?

author: outverter
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 26, 2022, 08:29:13 am
content: I realize now that there is a "Repair" subforum that I missed when I created this post originally.This thread will probably make more sense there.Can an admin assist in moving this post to that subforum, or do I need to recreate it there?
Broken fan connector Surface Pro 4 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: HomeLate
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 30, 2020, 11:35:47 am
content: Hi All,Managed to break off a small fan connector on a Surface Pro 4 mainboard while replacing its battery. It is a similar one as the one below the broken off connector.The flat cable has 4 leads and I'm wondering how to repair it. Bodge wires or do you guys have better ideas?
Broken fan driver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: _Emil
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2022, 12:59:30 am
content: Hello,I have four identical 12V fans which accidentally been powered with 24V. I see no burnt components on pcb, motor is ticking for 1-2s then it's quiet and power consumption goes to zero. Driver circuit behaves the same with motor disconnected. Motor seems fine, 0,3ohm from gnd to all phases.I'm suspecting this part on PCB but i need some help identifying it. "B11 683 ZK1". It's some expensive fans so would really like to solve it

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2022, 03:04:54 am
content: I've seen motor driver packages like that inside something like a DVD player or some sort of drive before. The thick middle pin and exposed metal plate are for heatsinking.I'm not having luck looking up those marking either. Some window shopping found this, but it's got the wrong number of pins:https://www.digikey.com.au/en/products/detail/toshiba-semiconductor-and-storage/TB6588FG-8-EL-JU/1830590

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2022, 04:09:37 am
content: I suspect it is a Sanyo chip, perhaps a custom run for the OEM. The part number would be B11683.See these photos of similarly marked ICs:https://www.google.com/search?q=la6242+sanyo&tbm=ischhttps://vi.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20220121200131&SearchText=la6242Edit:Here it is (LB11683H):https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/on-semiconductor/LB11683H-TLM-E/3536867LB11683H, Sanyo, 3-phase sensor-less motor driver, HSOP28HC:https://docs.rs-online.com/1abd/0900766b80d12046.pdfhttps://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/308/LB11683H-D-118788.pdf

author: _Emil
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2022, 03:02:18 pm
content: Thanks a lot! Sadly I'm having a hard time finding this component in smaller quantity

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2022, 01:15:52 am
content: https://octopart.com/search?q=LB11683H&currency=USD&specs=0

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2022, 01:52:06 am
content: Just replace the driver board with a R/C ESC?
Broken FFC/Keyboard/Membrane/Ribbon cable - that's it? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Yellofriend
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2020, 04:35:11 am
content: A moment of stupidity and **** happens. I partly ribbed a membrane keypad cable.The other side is fixed to the membrane keypad, which is glued to a housing - impossible to remove. Means simply replacing it is no option. Modeling the whole keypad is tricky without circuit diagram (4 pads, 8 LED), it's a 14 lines cable.Ideal would a foil piercing connector, Crimpflex connectors do need special tools though and I am not aware of other types.Are there repair options or i that a RIP case?
Broken Fluke 45 rear bracket - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Tango1668
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 30, 2021, 05:26:28 am
content: Just got a Fluke 45 from eBay. All functions are working. The VFD display had some uneven segments but that's acceptable for that age.The rear bracket was broken. Seller agreed to a partial refund so cannot ask for too much.What's the best mean to repair it? Using epoxy or fiber glass filler (those use for car panel repair) and sand it smooth, then maybe spray paint it? How about plastic welding. Not sure what exact material is that.Thanks in advance.

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2021, 07:35:49 pm
content: I would use JB Weld or any industrial grade epoxy.

author: Tango1668
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 02, 2021, 01:46:33 pm
content: Thanks for the suggestion.In fact the crack is not so large, When press it can hardly see the crack. Can super glue work?

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2021, 03:28:31 pm
content: Potentially. Personally I'd use "super strength" Araldite cured in an oven at ~80C. But that's just me.
Broken GTX 1070  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: _Emil
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2021, 06:35:42 pm
content: Hello,I have three identical Palit GTX1070 8GB which wont work. When i try them in my computer the fans spin for a couple of seconds then stops. I suspect all three of them have the same fault.I've done some basic troubleshooting, measuring for short circuit in pci-e connector and power connector without finding anything odd.Is it possible to put them in my computer and start without cooler to see if there is power everywhere? Some advice where/what to check is appreciated
Broken Infiniium 54833D - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: cheeseit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2019, 09:01:38 pm
content: I was contacted by someone with a non-working 54833D scope and I'm wondering if it's worth taking a chance since it's a good chunk of money and I may end up with a paperweight. Repairing it may well be way beyond my skill level or it may be BER, but then there's the lure of the "maybe it's something relatively simple!"-feeling..Any ideas or hints towards repairability of these errors? Seller wrote the following (paraphrased) "it had a timebase error and was non-functional. Repair offered was a newer refurbished one but that never happened and it was just stowed."The troubleshooter in the service guide just goes to "Replace acquisition board" for both errors.In Europe, what would be a fair price for something like this, including the logic probe, two full 1160A probe kits, peripherals etc. in otherwise good cosmetic condition? Seller is asking for a counter offer.
Broken LCD Fordata FDCC1601K replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: bading
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2022, 08:17:16 pm
content: I have an old CD player with a broken LCD Fordata FDCC1601K. I attach image.I should buy a replacement. Where to buy?I can't find the spare anywhereThe LCD has the Hitachi hd44780 compatible controller.All those on sale now have a standard height of 36mm while the FDCC1601K is just 24mm high.Any idea? Help meThank’sDario

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2022, 04:29:33 pm
content: It's a standard module but unfortunately with enough variations.https://www.hicenda.com/product/Character-LCD-Display-16x1.htmlhttps://datasheet.ciiva.com/11769/0900766b811adfda-11769530.pdfhttps://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf/download.php?id=5a858f3e23e0843c2d52534c3de2d637551b28&type=O&term=FDCC1601
Broken Metcal SP200 Handpiece( SP-HC1 ) - Updated - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: coldframe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2015, 01:15:01 pm
content: Hello everyone!I have one Metcal SP200 soldering stationThe Shield sticking out of the Handpiece Cable. (See Attatched Photo #1,#2)work pretty well but, This is nerve racking work, I orderd new handpieceBTW,I've found a suitable replacement Cable (CANARE L-2T2S, Belden 1800F)I tried to replace a New Cable but it’s too Hard to me,how to disassemble ? (See Attatched Photo #3)Is there anyone that has experience in repairing ?I need some help..Thanks,coldframeUpdateOne half is disassembled, while the other is still needs help (See Attatched Photo #4)ReferenceCANARE L-2T2Shttp://www.canare.com/ProductItemDisplay.aspx?productItemID=57Belden 1800Fhttp://www.belden.com/techdatas/metric/1800F.pdfBroken Metcal RFG-30 soldering base unit fixedhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/broken-metcal-rfg-30-soldering-base-unit-fixed/15/METCAL SP200 soldering stationhttp://www.testequipmentdepot.com/metcal/pdfs/sp200_manual.pdf

author: BurningTantalum
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2015, 06:16:17 am
content: That's interesting- I didn't know that the 470kHz SP200 handpiece had a twisted pair cable; I assumed that it was a double shield co-ax like the 13.5 MHz RM3E.The RM3E comes to pieces by unsoldering the screen where it enters the brass fittings; it looks worse than it is. As posted elsewhere on EEV the inner had usually parted near to the entry to the handle. Maybe this will be the same.Good luck, BT

author: stargun
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 18, 2015, 05:35:06 pm
content: Hi,May I ask for the proper method of disassembling the 3 pin connector end of the cable?Is it a must to remove the brass insert from the plastic housing, or I can just pull the 3 pin tuchel connector with the attached cable from the brass part by pressing some hidden pin?It seems that I can move the cable with the connector part itself a bit axially inside the brass and plastic assembly.My handpiece is brand new, but I'd like to change the connector and it would be preferable not to cut away the original ending.Thanks for the help guys!

author: ivi_yak
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2025, 02:28:42 pm
content: Hi,I teardown the handle. The question is, what is the Metcal SSC polarity?Could someone please share the cartridge pinout?
Broken power board for phillips gaming monitor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: xplice
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 17, 2024, 05:27:15 am
content: Hi Friends,I have a blown power board on my phillips monitor. The ******* at phillips will not sell the part. They say i have to take it to phillips service center. I live in a very remote location, Borneo. There is no service center in 1000kms or more.I tried the local electrical shop ( in Borneo) and they have no clue.What can I do? I have been looking for the part second hand for years on ebay etc, it never appears.

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2024, 03:03:36 pm
content: If you cannot find a replacement board then I guess the next thing to try is to repair that one. It looks like a pretty standard SMPS and it looks to me like the high voltage switching transistors on the primary side have burnt. It should not be too difficult to repair for someone with knowledge of theses types of SMPS. I should think.In years past I have had to reverse engineer a few. It took a lot of time but I managed to succeed in the end.
Broken powerbutton (Beelink BT3) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: gerry42
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 24, 2021, 08:57:28 pm
content: Hello!I think I need some advice on how to fix an issue. Some background: I wanted to de-solder the powerbutton on a board I had laying around. The button was a tactile switch, so it would be easy enough to replace it with some wires or whatever. The end goal was to have control over the power button from another device.Unfortunately, probably due to my inexperience, overconfidence and with a touch of clumsiness, I seem to have screwed things up a bit. Two solder pads have come off the board. I have attached a photo so you can have some idea.I would appreciate any and all suggestion on how to salvage this. Many thanks!(also, the large-ish pad on the outer edge of the board is the one to ground, unfortunately, otherwise I guess I could just have picked up ground from anywhere else on the board)

author: Manul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2021, 09:49:35 pm
content: Was the trace going to that small resistor on the right side? If yes, you could carefuly solder a thin, soft wire to that resistor. If the trace was going through the via into internal layer of PCB, then it is worse. Excavating PCB is quite delicate work and I don't suggest to try without experience. But maybe you could take a very thin wire, for example a single strand from multi strand wire and try to solder it to the via. If successful, then you could use multimeter and try to find where it goes to hopefully find a solid point to solder to.
Broken Rigol RP2200 scope probe - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2020, 12:33:23 pm
content: After several years of using my DS1054Z, and carrying it around occasionally, one of the stock 150 MHz RP2200 probes has failed. (Doesn't pass any signal.)The problem does not appear to be in the 10:1 selector switch, at least switching or wiggling it does not change anything. The coax cable looks good, without kinks or other exterior damage. So I'm wondering whether it is a bad connection on the plug or probe side -- but can't see an obvious way to get into either of these.Of course these are low-cost probes, and I should probably simply get a new set. But if there is an easy way to open the probe tip and/or the plug, I would certainly want to give that a try. Thank you for any hints you might have!
Broken SD card reader on synthesizer? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: testtube44
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2019, 11:02:59 pm
content: I have a musical synthesizer with an SD card reader, the card is mostly used for saving songs to. The card fits in there just fine and there are no bent pins, but when I try to do ANYTHING with it, it returns an ambiguous "SD card error"message. I've tried probing the pins with my oscilloscope, and determined that the clock signal exists. But can't seem to catch any signals coming down the data lines when trying to format it via the utility menu (In hopes of finding out which pins aren't functioning correctly). I haven't physically damaged anything on the board by the looks of it, but I haven't got a clue. I've sent a support email to the company (Roland), in the meantime, what should I try to troubleshoot next?

author: testtube44
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2020, 06:56:17 pm
content: This is still a problem for me and I have not made much progress. Where should I start with troubleshooting this?

author: Audiorepair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2020, 07:57:51 pm
content: You haven't yet mentioned whether you have tried the SD card in something else to establish it is not faulty or needs formatting etc.Or if you have tried more than one SD card in the synth.You also haven't mentioned the synthesiser.Often older equipment has a maximum capaicty of SD card it can deal with.Large capacity cards may simply not work.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2020, 08:43:54 pm
content: Was the same card working in the synth before? You haven't given enough information for anyone to help you beyond the trivial stuff.

author: testtube44
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2020, 10:15:55 pm
content: It's the same SD card. It's a roland FA08 synthesizer.

author: Audiorepair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2020, 10:48:25 pm
content: "Its the same SD Card" doesn't tell us much.You might want to elaborate further if you want any help.Have you tried a different SD card or tried that card in a different piece of equipment?

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2020, 06:27:02 am
content: Have you tried other SD cards? Have you tried the one that was working in something else? What other troubleshooting have you done? We can give you suggestions but you're going to have to do the work yourself, none of us has the unit in front of us.
Broken SMD LNA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sdellava
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 02, 2023, 03:18:47 pm
content: Hi team!I'm dealing with a 5.8 Ghz video transmitter that has the LNA broken (there is a hole on the case).The problem is I can't decode the number printed on it and therefore I can't define which device is among the various available on the market.Attached a picture of the same chip (but with different codes, so I suppose it is a time based code):Any suggestion on how to decide these numbers?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2023, 02:40:58 am
content: What are the markings on your chip? (I don't want to be searching for date codes)Could we see the chip in the context of its surroundings?

author: ConnorGames
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2023, 05:58:56 pm
content: Markings, package, function / frequency band, and what I can see of the pin-out seem to line up with KCT8525D. Looks to be an obscure brand, IDK where you'd find a replacement.I just googled "8525 LNA"

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2023, 06:16:35 pm
content: http://datasheet5.oss-cn-shanghai.aliyuncs.com/datasheets/kxcomtech/KCT8525D-1.pdfhttp://datasheet5.oss-cn-shanghai.aliyuncs.com/datasheets/kxcomtech/KCT8525D.pdf
[FIXED] Broken text display on TEK 2465B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: thenewservant
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 13, 2021, 04:51:58 pm
content: Hey guys,I've recently picked up a TEK 2465B from ebay. The seller warned that the only defect was a dead channel 1, which I was fine with.After booting it up, "DIAGNSTICS" etc showed up, as in any picture of the scope you could find. Five minutes later, the displayed text started to go weird and buggy, it seems broken, as shown on the two photographs. Channels 2,3 and 4, and basically every other aspect of the scope seems fine.Do you guys think that could be a faulty cap problem? considering I did see it work then fail. Or could it be a dead ASIC?

author: thenewservant
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 15, 2021, 07:35:28 pm
content: Well folks, seems like a temporary bug, since the display worked back again as if nothing happened, and this, without me knowing how or why.What I did was opening it up, looking at the big SMD-THT chips' battle inside (which is kind of weird imo), nothing more.

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2021, 11:56:41 pm
content: The computer that runs the front panel and on-screen display is connected by a BUNCH of stacking connector pins and ribbon cables. When I had flaky problems with mine, I reseated all these connections, and it went back to working fine. Just opening the case could jostle the boards enough to temporarily fix it.Jon
Broken thrustmaster t500rs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: EasyRed
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 25, 2019, 06:29:17 am
content: Hi, i have the following issue with my wheelbase that i cant resolve myself.The problem:2 days ago i was playing project cars 2, during the race i suddenly lost force feedback. I plugged the device in and out of the wall. Force feedback completely gone and movent does not get detected.when i go to the controll panel for the wheelbase, the pedal values ar at half value, wheel rotation does noet get registerd and button presses dont get registerd. But the weird part is, when i plug the device into my pc, i get the usb connected sound, but the wheel doenst auto calibrate.I did all the trouble shooting that thrustmaster recconmends, but none of the methods worked.After some research i came to the conclusion that the main pcb is most likely broken. But before i take real action i would like some advice,Buy a new wheelbase, or repair this one.Looking forward to your replys and opinions!
Broncolor studio flash schematics/service manual - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Solder Fumes
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 22, 2021, 11:51:07 pm
content: Hi,Hope someone can help me.I am looking for any repair information for Broncolor flash equipment. The packs (Pulso, Grafit, Opus, etc) are very old and no longer supported through official repairers. I havea number of packs so cannibalism of packs is an option.Repairs will be undertaken by an experienced repair technician with experience in high voltage electronics.Many thanks in advance.
Brother MFC-L8690 supercap replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: justaguy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2024, 09:19:15 am
content: A common defect on many Brother printers is the failure of a supercap on the main board. Symptom is the difficulty to turn the printer on unless you remove the power cord, keep the power button pressed for about 1 min and then put the power cord back on. There are scattered information on this problem on the web but nothing on this specific printer model, so I´m writing a quick note to- confirm that also this model is affected and can be repaired- attach a couple photos with the location of the supercap, so you don´t have to disassemble the whole printer looking for itThe main board is located on the left side; you have to open the left side panel by removing 4 screws and wrestle with the plastic clips that secure it in place. You will find the capacitor on the bottom left corner of the board, under a metal shield. You can do a proper job by removing all the connectors, extracting the board and reworking the component, or go the lazy route: clip the terminals of the old component as close as possible to the body and solder the new one to those terminals (guess which way I went). Before removing the supercap I measured 0.6V across its terminals, which sounds on the low side whatever the right voltage was supposed to be. On the web I found that the cap should be 0.22F 5.5V, however on my board I found a 0.33F. I suppose both values should work.I hope this helps.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2024, 02:05:57 pm
content: My dad has one of these (not sure if it's the same model, but at least pretty similar) - with the same symptoms. For now, pulling the plug does the job; one day, I'll have to replace the cap for sure.Hacking it in seems like a good idea
Brown glue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Jeff eelcr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2024, 09:05:30 pm
content: I was working on a BMW radio with a strange problem A pop in audio when Vol,presets,AM/FM/WB but not mode are pressed or turned.I removed the glue from around the crystal which was dark and hard, also there was an insulator under the crystal.TWO days later, several other problems found but still a pop in the audio I decided to look under the insulator there was more glue butit was soft and flexable but I removed it anyway and the audio pop was gone.This is the first time I have seen this glue cause a problem when soft and flexable.Jeff

author: jzx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2024, 11:57:06 am
content: It seems that some glue, white-yellowish originally, when old and cooked becomes conductive, not much, but enough to create problems.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/how-to-remove-the-dreaded-yellow-glue-of-death/msg4796963/#msg4796963

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2024, 01:15:41 pm
content: That old circuit glue becomes conductive and corrosive with time and heat. It's a known problem. You did the right thing to remove it completely.
Brown & Sharpe 961 LVDT gauge readout documentation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rhb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2023, 09:44:07 pm
content: Does anyone know of a source of *any* info. I don't even have a user manual or datasheet.I got one from ebay that seems OK until I connect an LVDT at which point it pegs the meter on all ranges. However, the sensor is clearly working, so there is some offset voltage for reasons unknown. I've had it apart, checked all the electrolytics and looked for adjustments. None that I found have any effect.Reg

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2023, 10:44:46 pm
content: https://brown-sharpe.com/

author: rhb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2023, 11:02:01 pm
content: Unfortunately, wrong division. The metrology stuff belongs to Hexagon IIRC. I don't have a screw machine.
Bruel & kjaer 2034 and 2146 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: musafir
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 03, 2019, 05:57:56 pm
content: Hello , i have two dead Bruel&Kjaer mod. 2034 and 2146 where can i find manual service o/e schematic ?Thanks

author: grinch
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 06, 2019, 08:49:02 am
content: HellomusafirI have two 2034. Both units were dead and now one is resurected and another one in the process.Unfortunately no manuals available, but you can find them on the fleabay.As first step change ALL RIFA capacitors to new epcos analogs. DO NOT power it up with old RIFA.w check power supply voltages, 15/-15, 5/-5, 28/-28, 200 (high impedance, do not use standart 10M input multimeters). If CRT does not work - nevermind, use external monitor to check unit.P.S. if anybody have got any bruel&kjaer manuals, service books etc, do not shy to upload it. Thanks.
Bruel & Kjaer 2409 Tube Voltmeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: PeiCB
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 07, 2022, 03:05:55 pm
content: HowdyIs there anyone who has disassembled the B&K 2409 in order to de-solder and test the pcb-mounted electrolytic capacitors and resistors?Like to disassemble as little as possible but I guess I need to be able to flip the top pcb over...?All help and ideas are most welcome

author: dejv
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 14, 2022, 03:20:36 pm
content: Hi PeiCB.Maybe you already have solved it, but if not, here's a few hints from when I faced the same challenge.I have partly disassembled my 2409 to replace the electrolytic capacitors, several of them showed significant leakage. Apart from unscrewing the circuit board closest to the front panel, it was necessary to unscrew the knob assemblies to be able to reach further into the meter. Both from the front panel, and the by the small nuts attached to the threaded rods on the main PCB. The purpose of that is to access the solder side on both of the boards.With that "part disassembly", I could keep everything still connected (with some exceptions, input jack for example). I then managed to replace all the electrolytics with NOS reformed axial types from Philips.To successfully replace the axial caps between the "twin-board assembly" at the switches, I removed the old ones by cutting out the capacitor, then desoldered the legs and cleaned up the soldering pads with desoldering wick. Then I trimmed down the legs on the new caps to have 5 mm extra on each side, and slided them in place before soldering.I also took the time to measure the resistors in the attenuator section, and they all performed within tolerance.After a calibration, the unit performs beautifully. Well according to spec.
Brüel & Kjær 2801 Microphone Power Supply Schematics - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Smoky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2024, 05:13:07 pm
content: I'm hoping that someone might have a copy of the Brüel & Kjær 2801 Microphone Power Supply schematics.I put together the 2801 microphone power supply, the 2615 cathode follower microphone pre-amplifier, and the 4134 microphone for a test.I'm measuring 14.5v of DC after the internal 4uF blocking capacitor at the direct output. I measure 62v of DC before the blocking capacitor (signal path from the microphone).When I speak from a distance into the microphone, I do get between 0-10mV of AC at the output.

author: timop
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 15, 2024, 09:26:11 pm
content: I have a service manual for the B&K 2803 two channel power supply, dated from 1967. The circuit might be quite similar to the 2801 (block diagram attached).If you're still interested, I can scan it and make it available after returning from my summer holidays in a couple of weeks.BR, Timo

author: Smoky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2024, 04:37:28 am
content: Thank you very muchThe 2803 is also "tube" driven so it should be very similar to the 2801. No hurry either, I won't be digging into any electronics-related stuff for a few more months.

author: timop
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 30, 2024, 12:03:15 pm
content: Here's the B&K 2803 Two Channel Power Supply service manual + schematic. Enjoy!
Bruel & Kjaer touch up paint suggestions needed. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2024, 12:53:38 am
content: I would like to know if anyone has found a Humbrol paint match for that greenish blue colour used by Bruel & Kjaer. I don't need a big amount , one of those little cans of paint for military modeling that Humbrol makes would be ample enough. I looked up their paint chart and either Pastel Green or Beige Green appear to be close to the required colour.

author: dejv
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 11, 2024, 08:48:35 pm
content: I’ve found documentation of newer products, specifying the B&K green to be NCS S3010-G10Y. I don’t know if that is true for older units, but at least on my computer screen it looks close enough to my gear.

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2024, 11:34:27 am
content: Thanks dejv, I'll look into this and see if it's a close enough match.

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2024, 11:42:17 am
content: Quote from: dejv on November 11, 2024, 08:48:35 pmLooked it up, sadly it appears to be more on the grey side then what B&K used.

author: sonic temple
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 18, 2024, 01:31:25 pm
content: https://cancolour.se/en/products/ncs-s-3010-g10y?variant=46481209131333How about that?

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2024, 04:53:58 pm
content: Quote from: sonic temple on November 18, 2024, 01:31:25 pmLooks close. I also saw the RAL equivalent RAL 150 70 10. I will try to source some at a place that sells paint for scale modeling. Thanks for your answer.

author: sonic temple
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 18, 2024, 04:58:41 pm
content: Great,.. please let me know if you find it,..

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2024, 07:04:34 pm
content: Just an idea: Our local DIY hardware stores are able to measure the color - and mix it.Another idea: Ask a local repro studio, maybe some larger design company - they often use a calibrated Colorimeter to match client color demands.
Bruel&Kjaer 2250 /2270 Firmware needed!!! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: smaultre
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2023, 02:15:15 am
content: The manual says : This topic applies only to hardware versions 1, 2 and 3. For version 4 hardware, please refer to Chapter 9 of the Type 2250/2270 User Manual (BE1713). You can see the hardware version by displaying the About tab of your instrument's help.If you cannot install software using the USB, and have have tried the Reset Options described in the Troubleshooting section of the User Manual for the instrument, then you can install the instrument software using a CF card.Procedure for Hardware Versions 1, 2 and 3Locate the required 2250/2270 Software Package in the folder where you have installed BZ-5503. The default path is:32-bit Windows® 7 and XP: C:\Program Files\Common Files\Bruel and Kjaer\SWP\SW#64-bit Windows® 7: C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Bruel and Kjaer\SWP\SW#Copy the content of the required 2250 Software Package to the root of an empty CF-Card (size between 64 and 512 MB and formatted with FAT 16)....BUT i have not any files on C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Bruel and Kjaer\SWP\SW# or any other SW folders.Files\folders that i need names:BKAPPS fldLanguages fldeboot.bineboot-C.bineboot-KR.binnk.binnkCN.binnkKR.binpackage.bin....Does anyone can share this folder?
Brushed DC Motor Driver IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sastuart
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 01, 2024, 09:58:50 am
content: GreetingsI am trying to locate an IC that has had part number removed.The package appears to be, or is similar to Infinion PG-DSO-20Assume the device is Full bridge or Multi Half bridge driver configurationThe problem so far is that none of the datasheets I have looked at have these basic requirements:Pin 2/3 and 18/19 Output to DC Motor15 Logic Supply17 Main Motor SupplyIf Anybody can advise a manufacturer that has a product/product range that meets these basic requirementsI can investigate the other pinouts/parameterskind regardsstew

author: Tim S
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2024, 01:17:41 pm
content: A picture tells a hundred words...

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2024, 07:18:13 pm
content: Often it helps to identify the manufacturers of the other ICs. For example, Japanese designers tend to stick with Japanese IC makers, so Rohm and Renesas would be two options for them.Also, knowing the vintage of the device would help to focus the search.The pin #1 dimple/dot may provide a clue in some cases.

author: sastuart
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 02, 2024, 08:08:18 am
content: Thanks Fzakbar for your responseI guess the board is manufactured in Europe and could be anywhere from 5-15 years old.There are a mixed bag of IC from different manufacturers so very difficult to tell.Cheers

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2024, 08:15:29 pm
content: I would look at STMicroelectronics.
Brushed DC servo motor speed measurements issues - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: shamooooot
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2022, 04:22:26 am
content: I have a servo motor with 4 brushes on the commutator. The motor is connected to a controller that enables the user to control the speed and at the same time it has an analog RPM meter which most probably measures the speed of the motor through the two additional brushes on its commutator.I had to give the motor a push to make it spin before which drove me to do some maintenance for the motor (checking the brushes, greasing the bearings, cleaning the commutator), but the RPM meter then became very inaccurate like reading about half of what the speed should be. I have tried and tried, but matter what I do I can't calibrate it back to how it was.I was wondering what is the mechanism for this speed measurement to see if I can find another way to measure the speed continuously through these brushes. Or what may cause this issue.

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2022, 04:28:06 pm
content: Datasheet says it's a tacho and recommends a filter.https://docs.rs-online.com/479b/0900766b806bd72a.pdf
Brymen 869S OL on AC Only - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: dkupers
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2019, 01:57:30 pm
content: Guys,edit: link updatedgot the same problem as this guy:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/brymen-bm869s-ol-problem-with-ac-measument/msg1936180/#msg1936180My meter didn't have a rough life, the meter is only used occasionaly.Unfortunately, that post has not been updated for a long time.In calibration mode, when trying to calibrate the 2.5ACV, the 'live input' shows 4.19430V, opposed to the 'real' input in other (non-AC) input modes.Anyone knows a solution for the problem?Greetings,Dethmer.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2019, 03:08:05 pm
content: the thread is not valid 404 not found ??You tried to calibrate the meterdo you have to official brymen calibration proceduresI had one for my 857s, but it had errors in it and was not an official brymen documentAsk Brymen under an NDA "non disclosure agreement", they did provide me the right infos ...

author: dkupers
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2019, 09:54:28 am
content: Edited original post, link updated.

author: dkupers
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2019, 09:58:24 am
content: Thanks coro.Calibration is just entering the calibration mode by a switch combination and applying the voltage the meter indicaties.

author: dkupers
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2020, 08:02:11 am
content: Fortunately, the multimeter is still under warranty (found the invoice). Sent it to the shop I bought it from.
Brymen BM235 incorrect DCV readings - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Alex Kingston
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 15, 2023, 06:33:39 pm
content: I picked up the EEVBlog BM235 a few years back and it has worked great up until a month ago. I started having an issue with the DCV measure function where the resolution has decreased significantly(on the order of a few volts). I recorded a video(link below) comparing the reading of the BM235 to another working meter as I swept the DCV range on a power supply. Its important to note that the readings increment does change with what range setting is selected. A very suspect example is on one of the ranges it only displays increments of 3.3V. I have confirmed that all other functions of the meter work flawlessly and the highest voltage it has ever been exposed to is 120VAC. I have also inspected the board for any visual cues and don't see any blown chips. Any insight is welcome, thanks!

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2023, 06:48:01 pm
content: That's an odd one. Just to rule out any problems with the power supply causing the meter to hunt, if you charge a cap and let it slowly discharge to the meter do you see the same effect? Just removing the supply from the equation. I doubt it would be the cause but may as well rule it out. Didn't appear you had a scope...

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2023, 11:50:14 pm
content: Unless it reacts in a similar manner in DCA the only cause I can think of is a corrupt serial EEPROM.Unfortunately if that's the case you'll need a good dump, a programmer and to readjust your meter.

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2023, 02:14:14 am
content: Although your case seems unique, a search on the forum does return a significant number of BM235 with various strange problems.A couple of them:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/very-weird-problem-with-the-bm235-select-button/msg2368155/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/(help)-how-to-switch-bm235-out-of-hexadecimal-display-mode/msg4100923/So either a defective ASIC (but in your case I fail to see why the ADC would behave normally for other functions) or corrupt configuration data which would be worth giving a try.I've been nice and gone to get you the only dumps I found hanging around although I haven't tested them myself, now if anyone with a wonky BM235 wants to send it over I'd be happy to experiment...The dumps are from here:https://remont-aud.net/dump/prochie/izmeritelnye_pribory_i_programmatory/brymen_bm235_shassi_main_board_bm235/483-1-0-119291