Finally!! Good quality Dupont cables from Aliexpress!! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 02:02:08 pm
content: I just bough these:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003021442186.htmlThe quality is outstanding, the crimping is spot-on, the bite force is so much better than the usual Ali crap, and the best of all, it doesn't fade after 5 uses!I opened one apart, tried bending the terminal, was much tougher than the Ali rubbish, which suggests they're truly using phosphor copper.Tested so far:- Real silicone, flexible, soft, unaffected by 300°C+.- Copper contacts, decent wire cross-section.- 22-25 milliOhms for the 10cm cables.- After inserting it ~20 times, a single wire can lift 250-300gr before dettaching from the inserted pin.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 02:24:25 pm
content: They also claim "silicon" - did you test that claim, too?

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 02:29:14 pm
content: It definitely must be silicone, it's extremely flexible and soft, and gives zero f***s when touched with the soldering iron at 350ºC.

author: squadchannel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 02:54:21 pm
content: not CCA?I think it's brass, not gold.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 03:05:07 pm
content: Quote from: squadchannel on July 22, 2025, 02:54:21 pmWhat? In non material-engineering language please?Quote from: squadchannel on July 22, 2025, 02:54:21 pmMaybe... or perhabs it's an extremely thin layer of actual gold?I don't have any acids to try dissolving it ..Also, it's applied only to the contact area, not to the whole terminal.Still, miles away from the usual Ali butter alloy.My phone camera always struggled with shiny surfaces, this is the best I got...You can clearly see how the black one (Ali crap) looks much rougher.Not placebo, I inserted the pin 10 times, wiggled it a bit, the black one barely held the pin anymore.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 07:49:00 pm
content: what is material? Iron? Steel? Aluminum?CCS (Copper-Clad Steel) - steel with a copper film coating to make it look like the wire is copperCCA (Copper-Clad Aluminum) - aluminum with a copper film coating to make it look like the wire is copperCCS or CCA is better, because sometimes these Chinese Dupont wires are made from Iron.Can you measure its resistance?

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 07:57:26 pm
content: Answering to everything - no, I don't have a lab!This is just Aliexpress+ (Plus), better than usual stuff while still cheap!

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 08:07:41 pm
content: Could you share a photo showing a cross-section of the wire, preferably cut at an angle to better reveal the internal structure of the conductor?Can you test also, is it possible to solder wires using regular solder without acid-based flux?

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 09:02:25 pm
content: Are you trying to discard aluminium?I'll check the resistance when I get back to work, this week is for holidays!

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 09:20:59 pm
content: Quote from: DavidAlfa on July 22, 2025, 09:02:25 pmYes, for radio amateurs aluminum wires are generally unsuitable because they are difficult to solder with non-acid rosin flux. Using acid-based flux corrodes contacts and PCB, causing damage. Additionally, aluminum wires have relatively high electrical resistance, which negatively impacts their suitability for amateur radio applications. This results in significant voltage drops, poor contact quality, and undesirable heating of the wires.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 10:48:22 pm
content: Both parts (Golden and silvery) solder fine.The green silicone is the most transparent of all, you can see the wire inside...

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 10:57:49 pm
content: Why would you care about how hard it is to solder jumper leads? These are for prototyping and breadboarding, etc.There are some on Choice as well but not with mixed colors:https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006253081415.html

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 11:26:31 pm
content: Yes, but those are way more expensive, you get only 10 for more than 1/2 the cost of the 50-pack.Quote from: thm_w on July 22, 2025, 10:57:49 pmJust as a proof they aren't aluminium.Scratched the terminal with a cutter, it definitely looks like copper, took several flakes off it, only copper came out.They weren't attracted to a magnet at all.Scratched a crappy one, ironically the material was much harder and dulled the cutter instantly.No copper to be seen, a magnet confirmed that it was some sort of iron...

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 11:40:38 pm
content: Quote from: thm_w on July 22, 2025, 10:57:49 pmBecause sometimes you may want to chop and solder them

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2025, 11:50:05 pm
content: Quote from: DavidAlfa on July 22, 2025, 10:48:22 pmThe color of insulation doesn't matter.Your photo don't show the wire inside, can you cut it to show what is inside?Quote from: DavidAlfa on July 22, 2025, 11:26:31 pmI don't see the proof on your photo it shows terminal instead of wire, can you cut the wire and show what is inside?Quote from: thm_w on July 22, 2025, 10:57:49 pmjust because you often need to solder it to something.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 12:01:13 am
content: Shame on you, you made me destroy a brand new cable, my heart bleeds...Pretty thick wire, solders extremely well!

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 12:05:54 am
content: good, did you test its resistance?

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 12:33:20 am
content: I've got some of those. They are genuine.I also found a store (Cleqee) that sells really nice test leads with various terminations. I have purchased all types.https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1103506255For alligator clips they offer large nickel plated brass or smaller copper plated aluminum (it could be brass too, hard to tell against the copper). The smaller copper plated ones come with smaller gauge wire. The jaws do not wobble and the teeth mesh precisely.The banana plugs are nickel plated brass with nickel plated spring steel lanterns and are vertically stackable.The wires are pure copper with very soft PVC insulation, not quite but almost as supple as silicone. They are rated for 1000V and 15A. I've tested this. @1000V the insulation shows greater than 20GΩ and @15A they don't even get warm. Resistance of the 1m banana to banana leads measure @ 25mΩ.Not all stuff from China is junk.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 12:49:18 am
content: Quote from: BillyO on July 23, 2025, 12:33:20 amYes, I bought some banana plug cables from this store about five years ago - they’re really good quality. However, the problem is that sometimes this store sends slightly shortened cables, about 5-10 cm shorter than before. I’ve ordered them several times, and now I have cables of different lengths, even though they were all purchased from the same product page.Their resistance is about 0.03-0.04 Ω per wire, so with 2 wires you will get about 0.08 Ω which is suitable for 5 A load - just 0.4 V voltage drop.Very good for currents below 5 Amps.

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 12:56:29 am
content: Strange, I have never gotten leads of other than 1m from them and their are all the same length. I have shortened some myself in various lengths, but they have never done it. I have 15 sets from them now. My banana to banana measure a 25mΩ.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 01:24:37 am
content: Just measured two identical wires purchased from this seller in separate orders - the difference in length is 86 mm.The longer wire measures 1021 mm, excluding the banana plugs.The shorter one measures 935 mm, also excluding the plugs.Each banana plug is 63 mm long.The longer wire was received in the first order.

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 01:55:56 am
content: I'm not sayin you didn't get different lengths, just that I didn't. I'm not sure how long mine are, but they are all hanging on the same dowel and they are the same length (within a type). If I get a chance in teh next day or so, I'll measure them. But if they were 935mm or 1021mm or something else around there, it would not be a deal breaker. They are still very good leads.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 02:05:34 am
content: yes, they are good as 5 Amps wires. But not as 15 Amps as they promoted.With 15 Amps you will get about 1 V voltage drop on them, which is not good.

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 02:34:17 am
content: Always looking for the rain cloud, eh?There is always going to be a voltage drop .. you learn to deal with it. The times I've pushed these to 15A was when I power something from a bech supply. I turn up the bench supply until I measure the correct voltage across the DUT. Job done.They will handle 15A easily without melting or going up in flames.So, mine measure at about 25mΩ. The #16 wire they are made of takes up about 13mΩ leaving about 12mΩ for the connectors and connections. Let's say that remains roughly constant if we use the same banana plugs and teh same sockets. If we then go to #14 wire (getting bulky, expensive and difficult to handle now) the wire resistance drops to 8mΩ such that the terminated leads in sockets will measure around 20mΩ. That's only a 20% reduction at great cost. Even going to an insane #12 wire, you would still have terminated leads in sockets at 17mΩ. Perhaps if you went to #12 silver wire and hard gold plated silver banana plugs and sockets, you might get that original 25mΩ down to half, say 12mΩ and half your voltage loss - but that would end up costing you about $500 or more per unusable patch cable.Really, what are you expecting for a 15A rated patch cord? 10mΩ? Do you still expect it be affordable and practical?

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 04:10:11 am
content: Quote from: BillyO on July 23, 2025, 02:34:17 amYes, R <= 15 mΩ is acceptable for 15 Amps.So 10 mΩ will be ok.From my point of view voltage drop >= 0.5 V is not acceptable for lab wires.Of course, you can use wires with a voltage drop of 5-10 volts as long as the insulation doesn't melt, but this is clearly far from acceptable.Why is this a problem? Its simple, just because if you power for example a 5V device with a voltage drop exceeding 0.5V, there's a high likelihood it won't start properly or will operate unreliably.If you use these wires to supply a 15 Amps device at 5V, you'll end up with only 4V at the input. This is unacceptable and clearly indicates an inadequate power delivery setup.If you use these wires to power a 5 Amps device, you'll get around 4.7V at the input. While not ideal, this is still within an acceptable range for many applications.So their real rating is 5 Amps.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 04:29:55 am
content: Quote from: BillyO on July 23, 2025, 02:34:17 amYeah, he sticks to his guns.Like with epoxy.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 07:19:40 am
content: Quote from: BillyO on July 23, 2025, 12:33:20 amCleqee do decent-quality stuff, I've got a bunch of their test leads, and you're buying the product directly from the manufacturer. The problem with generic ones though is that all of the Store1234-type stores are dropshippers and it's complete pot luck what you get, the very next order might be CCS that someone's crimped with their teeth and insulated with overplasticised PVC. It's not the store ripping you off, it's the supplier ripping the store off, since they're a third party removed from the trade there's little fallout for them if they ship cheap junk in place of what was ordered because it's the store that carries the can.@BillyO: Thanks for doing the more extensive testing of the Cleqee gear, I'd just done a quick visual inspection of crimps and checked for CCA/CCS because I'm not putting any of it under any real load, but it's good to know it could handle it if required.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 07:26:52 am
content: Quote from: Analog Kid on July 23, 2025, 04:29:55 amWell, that's what you get when you're careless with hot glue.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 01:01:48 pm
content: Quote from: radiolistener on July 23, 2025, 12:05:54 am0.6A, 22mV drop = 36milliOhms (10cm cable).Measured after the terminals, at the receiving pins.Excellent in my opinion, it's a thin Dupont wire, no a beefy banana power cable!

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 02:07:50 pm
content: Quote from: radiolistener on July 23, 2025, 04:10:11 amGood luck with that. My heavy duty jumper cables for my truck, even shortened to 1m, would not meet this spec.Quote from: radiolistener on July 23, 2025, 04:10:11 amThen use 6V. If your lab does not have a power supply that will accommodate this, it's you lab that needs attention.Quote from: radiolistener on July 23, 2025, 04:10:11 amI'd disagree. If your DUT specifies 5V, the you need to provide it with 5V. Not 4.7V. This is why many of invest several hundreds of dollars, if not thousands of dollars, on variable power supplies. The cables need only handle the current. The power supply is adjusted to make up for theINVEITABLEvoltage drop.Quote from: radiolistener on July 23, 2025, 04:10:11 amI disagree, see above for why.Okay, we have dragged this thread off topic long enough. I'll give you the last word.

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 02:11:36 pm
content: Quote from: Analog Kid on July 23, 2025, 04:29:55 am

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 07:01:24 pm
content: Quote from: BillyO on July 23, 2025, 02:07:50 pmYes, if you're using typical low-cost jumper cables from China, they can't handle actual starter current. I couldn't start even a small car with them in summer conditions - they only work if your battery still holds some charge. For reliable jump-starting, it's best to use welding-grade cables, which can easily handle the high current required by a starter motor.I was surprised when my car's starter wouldn't crank using the Chinese jumper cables I had. However, when a neighbor lent me cables made from welding-grade wire, the starter turned over easily and the engine started without issue. The conditions were identical, but the voltage drop with the Chinese cables was too high. Despite their thick appearance, most of the diameter is just insulation - the actual conductors inside are relatively thin.In contrast, welding cables may appear thinner overall, but most of their diameter is actual conductor. As a result, the voltage drop across them remains low, even under high current load.Quote from: BillyO on July 23, 2025, 02:07:50 pmCompensating for voltage drop by increasing the output voltage of the power supply is risky - you might easily damage your device. The problem is that the device may not always draw the full 15 Amps. If you've raised the supply voltage to compensate for the drop at 15 Amps, then when the current decreases, the actual voltage at the device input can rise dangerously, potentially causing failure or burning out. A more reliable and safer approach is to use higher-quality, lower-resistance cables rather than offsetting losses with elevated supply voltage to compensate voltage drop on cheap Chinese wires.You can assemble your own jumper cables by visiting a local welding supply store and purchasing welding cables rated for 250-400 Amps. These stores also offer high-quality clamps capable of handling high current reliably.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 09:32:04 pm
content: Please don't flood the thread with OCD / "me right you wrong" stuff, I just wanted to tell people about these nice Dupont cables...

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 11:08:01 pm
content: Quote from: DavidAlfa on July 23, 2025, 09:32:04 pmI understand you're trying to highlight these cables, but when critical feedback is consistently ignored and only positive claims are repeated, it starts to resemblelow-effort promotional spam. This is a technical forum, not a marketplace

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 11:25:12 pm
content: Quote from: radiolistener on July 23, 2025, 11:08:01 pmOho; now you're accusing the OP of being a possible spammer?This just gets better and better.More popcorn!

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 11:38:44 pm
content: - Missing critical feedback? Do you want me to eat one and see how it comes out to prove it's real silicone?- Spam? First good wires I see from Ali/ebay in 15+ years...- Exactly, it's a technical forum, sharing good Aliexpress stuff is a sound thing to do, not everyone has a bottomless pocket to buy the BEST stuff from Farnell, or simply don't need it because we're just hobbists.Now I see you're just a guy with a tinfoil hat, please just go listen the radio dude...

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 01:18:06 am
content: Quote from: DavidAlfa on July 23, 2025, 11:38:44 pmI don’t see anything good about these wires. They are the same as many other. Moreover, your reluctance to share photos of the conductor cross-section or measurements of their resistance suggests this may be a paid marketing campaign rather than an honest recommendation.What is the issue with providing such evidence? I have outlined the main challenges users typically encounter with these cables - notably, high resistance and frequent difficulties with soldering due to the low-quality conductor material.I have had two sets of such cables for about five years, but they are inconvenient due to their high resistance and tendency to deteriorate quickly. I do not use them. I prefer using quality ribbon cables over these low-quality Chinese wires.Regarding breadboards, it’s better to use jumper wire sets for connections rather than loose wires - especially when those wires are of such low quality.If you choose to promote cables on a technical forum, please provide their technical specifications (such as resistance), as well as clear images of the conductor’s cross-section and soldering quality. Otherwise, this is the same as spam advertising, similar to what frequently appears on Aliexpress, filled with reviews like "Good! Arrived on time, but haven’t tested yet"For example, the resistance of my samples of these Dupoont wires, measuring 190 mm in length, is 0.11 Ω

author: mtwieg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 01:46:53 am
content: Quote from: radiolistener on July 23, 2025, 04:10:11 amThis is not how ampacity is determined, in any country, I'm sure.Ampacity is about temperature rise, not voltage drop.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 01:58:03 am
content: Quote from: mtwieg on July 24, 2025, 01:46:53 amI’m less concerned about wire heating - as long as they don’t burn or melt, that’s acceptable. My wires often get warm when charging batteries, but if the voltage drop isn’t critical, it’s not a major issue. What matters most, especially for cables with banana plugs used to connect power supplies, is the voltage drop itself. A drop of 1 volt or more is unacceptable and can cause failure of device.Therefore, I cannot agree that a cable with a voltage drop of 1V or even more is acceptable.

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 02:10:58 am
content: Quote from: radiolistener on July 23, 2025, 11:08:01 pmI just came upon the thread in one flood. You do come across to me a bit full on. I read the OP and I can sort of see how you might interpret the enthusiastic tone as you obviously did. I don't think there is enough there to run with. Just my opinion.Most here. buying from Aliexpress I would think will be happy to get something better than the crap they fear and expect. That certainly is my approach.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 02:24:55 am
content: I appreciate a balanced view. I probably wouldn’t have reacted so strongly if the original poster had simply shared a photo of the conductor cross-section and some resistance measurements. That would’ve made it clear whether we’re dealing with something of decent quality or just more of the usual low-grade material. But for some reason, he’s avoided showing any meaningful details about the wire, which naturally raises questions.As for Aliexpress - I’m not sure how it is these days, but when I used to buy from there, they had a fairly effective buyer protection system. If the seller sent defective or broken items, it was usually possible to open a dispute and get a partial or full refund. So if a product listing didn’t look like outright junk, it was often worth a try.

author: shabaz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 03:15:15 am
content: I ignored radiolistener and ordered some of these yesterday, so thanks for the post@DavidAlfa.Quote from: wilfred on July 24, 2025, 02:10:58 amI don't know if he is "a bit full on"."Not all there" would be how I would describe radiolistener's output!@radiolistenerhas yet again demonstrated that he cannot form a sensible conclusion, when he suspects the OP is a shill for some low-cost jumper wires based on the posts, and rudely effectively challenged his honesty and intentions.The OP (David) has no need to bend over to provide milliohm-level measurements just because radiolistener seems to demand it. David already has helped a lot by taking some of the cables apart and showing photos.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 07:34:19 am
content: I already destroyed a cable showing the conductor inside... And made a rough resistance estimation by running a known current through it... Maybe you're blind?Is this the Warren Buffet? Do I have to follow some behavior conduct?Of course I was being a enthusiastic, they're really good cables, I'm tired of the crappy ones lasting minutes before the let go their grip, causing havoc in my projects.I'll drop a message to the seller asking for a referral fee...

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 01:57:16 pm
content: Quote from: thm_w on July 22, 2025, 10:57:49 pmI use them all the time to make random adapter cables etc. Cut and use - you don't need to then have stock of contacts, plastic shells, crimping tools. I appreciate solderability, and having enough strands (not cheaping out on wire gauge to the extreme) so that it doesn't break immediately after soldering from slightest bending (of course secure with hot melt glue or similar after soldering).Cheap price is advantageous in that you don't feel bad cutting them for whatever random use. But of coursetoocheap finally implies low quality.If DavidAlfa is right about the quality of those, then $14 for 50pcs of 30cm length is excellent value. Unusable crap isn't much cheaper than that.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 02:07:03 pm
content: Quote from: DavidAlfa on July 24, 2025, 07:34:19 amyes, now I seeQuote from: DavidAlfa on July 23, 2025, 01:01:48 pmif thats true they are really seems like good quality

author: NE666
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 02:26:46 pm
content: Quote from: shabaz on July 24, 2025, 03:15:15 amMe too. Thanks@DavidAlfa.I'm just a general hobbyist so 'nice', 'inexpensive' and 'less $h1t than most' are just fine as grounds for me to sample them for myself. I welcome the recommendation. Indeed, most the of lab gear and equipment purchases I've made during the past couple of years have all been as the result of recommendations made on this forum.Please don't let the response you've had in this thread deter you from sharing in the future. We're all capable of making critical and objective assessments ourselves, we don't need a datasheet from you (and sure as Hell not for a $10 purchase).

author: Per Hansson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 02:38:49 pm
content: Another thanks to DavidAlfa from me!I ordered these cables today because _all_ the ones I have in my possession are of ridiculous quality:A good example I found on Youtube was someone showing cables can be magnetic because they are made out of steel.I thought they where shitting but tried some of my cables and sure enough they can be lifted by a hard drive magnet, hahaha, that puts CCA (copper clad aluminium) in the premium quality range

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 07:24:54 pm
content: Quote from: radiolistener on July 23, 2025, 11:08:01 pmYu really should calm down, if you care that much buy your own and do metallurgy tests, totally over the top of course but whatever makes you happy.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 10:43:44 pm
content: Quote from: Siwastaja on July 24, 2025, 01:57:16 pmhm not something I do regularly, if its an adapter cable then I'd want a row of pins or a polarized connector, and not just loose single contact cables.But totally understand the point now.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 10:22:00 am
content: Quote from: thm_w on July 24, 2025, 10:43:44 pmWell, it’s not too hard to remove the single housings, and then you could replace them with multi-pin housings, with or without the polarizing tab. Non-polarized DuPont housings are cheap as dirt; the polarized ones are significantly more expensive, but still eminently affordable.Of course you can also polarize the non-polarized housings by blocking a hole. Harwin makes polarizing plugs for the M20 series that should fit generic DuPont housings, but you can also just block off a hole with glue, or with a female contact you’ve smushed the mating area of so that nothing can enter, or with a male contact with the actual pin cut off.

author: mtwieg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 11:45:25 am
content: Quote from: radiolistener on July 24, 2025, 01:58:03 amYou're certainly entitled to your own selection criteria specific to your applications, and you're entitled to share that. But suggesting that your personal criteria is the "real rating" is not constructive IMO. The standard definition is not fake, and it's important to be aware of what the rating implies.Of course sometimes products, especially from aliexpress, sometimes do not actually meet their stated ratings. I think that's why the OP started this thread (to highlight an exceptional product on Aliexpress). But that is a completely different matter from how ratings are defined.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2025, 05:18:52 am
content: Got my Dupont cables last night, Male-Male, Male-Female, Female-Female, all 200mm long.The actual length of the cable is about 230mm (including the connectors), and the actual measured resistance is almost exactly the same as the claimed AWG26 wire should be.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2025, 05:39:06 am
content: Quote from: mtwieg on July 25, 2025, 11:45:25 amThe issue with Aliexpress isn’t that different people have different criteria for quality - it’s that many buyers, especially newcomers to electronics, often lack the experience to properly evaluate what they’re purchasing. As a result, they may not realize they’ve received substandard or misleading products, and unfortunately, some sellers take advantage of that by offering low-quality or even defective goods.Some might argue that it’s fair - that people are simply paying the price for their lack of knowledge. But I strongly disagree. Exploiting someone’s inexperience or trust to make a profit is not just unethical - it undermines the very foundation of a healthy market. That’s why it’s important to speak openly about product shortcomings.Unfortunately, the majority of posts promoting so-called “good products” often end up advertising low-quality items for newbies. I'm glad that doesn't seem to be the case this time. However, for the reasons mentioned, I don’t believe that direct questions about technical parameters are unnecessary, nor that enthusiastic reviews alone are sufficient for a proper evaluation.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2025, 08:18:41 pm
content: Quote from: radiolistener on July 31, 2025, 05:39:06 amYou say this as though the EEVblog forums are full of newbie posts waxing ecstatic about cheap AliExpress/Temu/etc products. But that really isn't the case. This thread is a perfect example of the rigor of the forums. So for you to outright accuse the OP of being a shill is ridiculous, and IMHO shows that you have a very... warped impression of the forums.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2025, 05:04:26 am
content: Quote from: tooki on July 31, 2025, 08:18:41 pmYou're right, the forum isn't only filled with ecstatic posts about questionable products - that would be too easy to spot. But let’s just say I’ve seen enough glowing praise paired with oddly missing details to keep my skepticism in good shape, especially when the subject is yet another "Finally!! Surprisingly good quality" cable from AliExpress, accompanied only by a photo of the insulation and without any details about the wire’s resistance or conductor material.I'm not pointing fingers, of course, but I've noticed that critical questions and cautious remarks sometimes trigger surprisingly emotional pushback - almost as if they interfere with someone's business interests. Just an observation.Claims that a wire is good quality based solely on a photo of its plastic insulation cannot be considered valid evidence of its true quality. Therefore, I genuinely don't see much practical reason for the amount of reproach and debate sparked by what was, in my view, a reasonable and objective request - simply to show the wire’s resistance and a cross-sectional photo to better understand its material and internal structure.By the way, a photo of the wire’s cross-section has yet to be provided, so its construction and materials remain unclear. Ideally, such details should be included right in the initial review post, not extracted later through lengthy discussions - as if revealing some kind of trade secret.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2025, 10:00:34 am
content: Quote from: radiolistener on August 01, 2025, 05:04:26 amI don’t think anyone here actually objects to thesubstanceof requests for more tests. The reason for the “emotional” response you got was because of the antagonistic and pessimistic tone you took. OP just wanted to share his excitement atfinallyfinding a nice quality jumper wire, not to provide an analytical report on them. Then you (and others) replied with skeptical responses right away. A simple “oh cool, if those specs are true, that’s awesome” before asking for testing would have worked wonders. Then, as each simple test came back with good results, the objections became more and more outlandish. (Automotive jumper cables?!? Other than the word “jumper” in their name, a completely unrelated, irrelevant product.) And once that was called out for being ridiculous, you just accused OP of being a shill!So it came across as though you were simply getting frustrated at not being able to find a flaw in the product, rather than conducting a rational exploration of the quality.Back to the jumper wires themselves: The tests so far all indicate that they are real copper in the AWG specified, with the claimed insulation material being correct.<background>I’ve bought lots of Chinese silicone wire (unterminated), and it’s all been as claimed, being either bare or tinned copper, in the correct strand count and size, with actual silicone. The “raw” wire vendors seem to generally be honest, perhaps because the people buying “raw” wire and cable are looking for something specific and probably know how to verify those things, at least at a basic level. E.g. it’s easy to check whether it’s actually copper inside, and the size is easily verified, as is the temperature resistance of the insulation. (My suspicion is that for the most part, it’s cable assemblers who ask for undersized or non-copper wire with mislabeled insulation markings, and the wire manufacturers just make it for them.) Some manufacturers’ silicone is better than others’: some has strong “memory” and is less tough, others are smoother, tougher, and have less “memory”. (And yes, it’s the insulation, as the shape memory is present even in the hollow bits of insulation stripped off the wire, with no metal inside!)I recently bought AliExpress silicone cable (sold as “soldering iron cable”) at work (for an application where the original PVC and PUR cables often get damaged due to contact with hot surfaces, as well as degradation due to solvent exposure) because I could not find such cable from any mainstream supplier in anything less than full reels. And it seems to meet every claimed spec, and given my experience with Chinese silicone, that doesn’t surprise me.</background>Anyhow, with that background in mind (the upshot of which is “you can easily get high-quality Chinese silicone wire and cable if you want it”), it seems clear that some manufacturers of jumper wires did hear people’s frustrations with the cheap jumper wires and decided to differentiate themselves by making a good product using good components. Or perhaps they had a customer (of kits or test gear or something) who asked for such jumper wires, and after setting up to make them, they decided to sell them separately, too.Quote from: radiolistener on July 24, 2025, 01:18:06 amThis was such a weird response from you. By the time you said it, OP had already posted pictures of the insides (wire and crimp terminal) including some direct comparisons to inferior products. Ordinary DuPont jumper wires are well documented for: a) having poor crimp terminals that become unusably loose after just a few mating cycles, b) very thin wire with c) often very stiff PVC insulation over d) wire that is often not solid copper (CCS, CCA, etc).So for you to claim,afterall of those concerns had been addressed, that you “don’t see anything good about these wires” and that “they are the same as many other” is just freakish, because by that point they had already beenprovento be better.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2025, 12:41:14 pm
content: Calm down nerds, it's Friday!Different experiences in life e result in different attitudes/tendencies, Radiolistener simply seems an old dog that's seen many things and came out in a skeptical fashion.

author: BILLPOD
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2025, 01:14:35 pm
content: Quote from: DavidAlfa on August 01, 2025, 12:41:14 pmAwww...c'mon Dave, let them have their fun, as it is just getting interesting.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2025, 01:17:12 pm
content: I did another informal insulation resistance test just for fun.I wish I had a 3kV or even a 5kV, but unfortunately, I only have a 1kV tester. I left it on for over five minutes and measured nothing.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2025, 01:55:56 pm
content: The connectors and crimping were both satisfactory.Although I had already accurately measured the resistance of the wires, I still cut open one to examine the inside. Without a microscope, I could still see the sheen of fresh copper metal on the cut surface.The only reason I can't give it a perfect score so far is that the silicone cover is not the best and is slightly lacking in elasticity (but it's good enough for such a thin wire.).

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2025, 03:30:02 pm
content: Do you think applying 1KV+ to a dupont wire is even reallistic?(Sh**t why did I do that, I opened Pandora's Box again)

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2025, 03:42:52 pm
content: Quote from: DavidAlfa on August 01, 2025, 03:30:02 pmI really like these Dupont cables. I used to buy the connectors, wire, and crimping tools to make them myself, now I don't have to do that anymore.Thank you!

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2025, 10:00:52 pm
content: Quote from: DavidAlfa on August 01, 2025, 03:30:02 pmWhat you don't breadboard your mains powered circuits?You wouldn't want to get shocked moving those uninsulated pins around.

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2025, 10:12:11 pm
content: I have built a HV generator on a breadboard before. It was capable of generating 1,500V. So, yeah, it can happen. And yes, I have done mains stuff on breadboards too. That HV generator started with 115VAC.I also built a 15kV capacitor a couple of months ago. I wasn't able to test it at that voltage, but the dielectric used was capable of that.HV stuff can happen in hobby labs and even end up on breadboards.In any case, there is no issue in characterizing something beyond where it will be used. It's fun!

author: SteveThackery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2025, 10:30:08 pm
content: @DavidAlpha: thank you for alerting us to those leads. Mine have just arrived and they are much better than the ones I've been using up until now: the wires are more flexible and the connectors have a firmer grip.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2025, 03:11:40 am
content: Quote from: thm_w on August 01, 2025, 10:00:52 pmI saw that and thought "challenge accepted", but can't find anything on YT, just people running woosy 5V and 12V circuits. I see a great need for an EEVBlog video...

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2025, 11:12:49 am
content: Quote from: thm_w on August 01, 2025, 10:00:52 pmSure!But first of all, I check with my tongue to make sure the mains didn't discharge, it's very important to make sure there're 240VAC.Then I like moving live wires with wet finguers (Better with salt water) while bare footed.

author: Per Hansson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 02, 2025, 01:28:22 pm
content: Just 240VAC on breadboard?Amateurs!In Europe we always run 3-phase 400VAC on our breadboardshttps://youtu.be/pVVc3bV9dEg?t=469

author: Tation
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2025, 10:16:36 pm
content: Are these cables LC-OFC? If not, they will not touch the beryllium-copper contacts of my granite breadboards.I expect them to be marked with the preferred direction for signal flow and also being biodegradable by gram negative bacteria.

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2025, 03:29:55 am
content: Quote from: Tation on August 02, 2025, 10:16:36 pmNo, no, no. Those cables only came in specially marked boxes of Kellogg's Sugar Frosted Flakes endorsed by Tony the Tiger! I don't think they were even available in Portugal, were they?.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2025, 12:15:08 pm
content: Quote from: Per Hansson on August 02, 2025, 01:28:22 pmPay no attention to the melted-looking bits of the breadboard.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2025, 02:11:49 pm
content: You guys are really picky. My standards have dropped considerably. I'm just happy when my wire isn't magnetic...I didn't even know this was a thing until a few months ago because I was testing some hall sensors.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2025, 07:41:07 am
content: Quote from: 5U4GB on August 03, 2025, 12:15:08 pmIt's diodegonewild. Melted bits are kinda his trademark!

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2025, 03:26:55 pm
content: Thick accent and burning bits!

author: shabaz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2025, 03:55:21 pm
content: I received some today. Often I crimp my own but that's not always a very productive thing to do! I'm very happy with what I received.I don't intend to do any measurements at all, just use them! However the ohmmeter was nearby so I did clip them on.. just under 20 milliohm for the 10 cm cables as can be seen in the photo. And about 30 milliohm for the 20 cm cables.

author: MAS3
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2025, 01:07:44 pm
content: Ordered some too.The pins are better, because of the way they are built:Not some metal round pin that holds the wire, but a flat piece of metal that was folded into a small square pin.This will give a much higher strength, and it also explains the better grip, and better conductivity: it has a much larger contact area.Just don't do as i did and order late at night, not noticing that there's a colour selected instead of the shown 10 colour choice.So good find and thanks @DavidAlfa

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2025, 08:47:21 pm
content: Quote from: MAS3 on August 12, 2025, 01:07:44 pmBeware that the stamped, folded pins are much less robust than the round ones you think are worse: the round ones are usually steel, and not only resist bending fairly well, they can be bent back if need be. The folded ones are usually brass, and if bent too far cannot be bent back, as the pin will just snap off.The best pins for connecting to the female connectors are the square metal ones, which I have only ever seen as a crimp contact in the TE Micro Quadlok (MQS) series of automotive connectors; I’ve used those crimp contacts to make “luxury” DuPont jumpers.For breadboards, the round ones are the best, especially if you use diagonal cutters to cut them at a slant to give them a point.

author: MAS3
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2025, 08:59:14 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on August 12, 2025, 08:47:21 pmSounds expensive, and a lot of fiddly work.Will be worth it if you need some quality control, but i wonder if that's also the case with breadboard test configurations.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2025, 09:19:11 pm
content: Automotive connectors for prototyping? Sure!I also a 5GHz scope for analyzing audio... 6 AWG wire for leds... ahh and 10Gbit connection to read the news

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2025, 06:30:52 pm
content: Quote from: MAS3 on August 12, 2025, 08:59:14 pmThey're actually not expensive at all. Around 15 cents per crimp contact at Q=100. They crimp the same as any "normal" Dupont contact. With cheap crimp tools, fiddly indeed, but no more so than any similar contact.The only real downside is that they cannot use normal Dupont housings, and all the official housings are for complex automotive connectors. So you have to heat shrink them.The thing they're great for is test leads, where you want something durable. The male MQS pins and female Mini-PV receptacles are unbeatable for that application, with lots of mating cycles.Anyway, I mentioned them simply because of your mistaken belief that the folded metal ones are robust.Quote from: DavidAlfa on August 12, 2025, 09:19:11 pmWhy the dickish answer? They're not expensive; automotive connectors aren't expensive, since cars are exceedingly cost-sensitive products. What they are is extremely robust.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2025, 05:50:51 am
content: Just joking man, I imagined a beefy and bulky connector on the Arduino... As you say the housings are usually pretty large...