TEK 224 BNC Connectors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: geo_leeman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2014, 01:13:26 am
content: Hello all,I've got a Tek 224 with some bent up BNC connectors. After some tribulation with getting the old ones out (hot air for the win), I need replacements! I've scoured amphenol, TE, and various suppliers, but so far no good. The four support posts are hard to find with a rear exit for the signal! Anyone have any ideas?Thank you,John

author: Fank1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2014, 01:21:03 am
content: These people may be able to help:http://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/tekparts.html

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2014, 01:36:12 am
content: Yes they are uncommon. All I can recommend is continue searching the rest of the connector makers. Assuming TE hasn't gobbled them up too..From memory there is Bendix, King, ?Duechen?, AMP, Litton.Likely you will need to utilize second source. The big connector makers don't support uncommon connectors for very long. With no mention of an engraved part number on the bezel it was likely a custom connector, making things even worse.You may need to resort to utilizing something close that can be altered to your purpose.Not much help but that is I have for you right now.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2014, 02:00:20 am
content: I replaced the BNC inputs on a TDS210 that are prone to break as they are only 2 pin.Thebeef upmod was to solder a strap over them and back to the GND plane underneath them. They were TE.http://nz.element14.com/te-connectivity-amp/5414373-1/connector-type-bnc-coaxial/dp/1654643?Ntt=165-4643Not real pretty, but they won't give any more problems.Depend on your PCB if that might be an option.

author: geo_leeman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2014, 03:32:49 pm
content: Quote from: Fank1 on June 18, 2014, 01:21:03 amI tried them last night per your suggestion. Sadly their response is:QuoteI have looked at the connectors mentioned by tautech, but the two posts are right in the middle of where the 4 posts are on this connector. Maybe I have to file them down and try to drill/insert some rod into the bottom of them in the correct location?

author: geo_leeman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2014, 11:29:44 pm
content: Okay, I think I may have a solution, but would like some feedback. I found some BNC connectors that are the right size, but have 2 ground posts, not 4. As you can see, they will fit on the board. I'm sure this is about a 4 layer board (?). The idea is drilling holes. I can't imagine that anything would run under the ground to the BNC connectors. Is that safe or could this potentially go south very quickly? I have fixed all the other issues on the scope, so the BNCs are the only thing left.Thanks!

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2014, 11:58:06 pm
content: You might get away with re-drilling holes, but I would be very reluctant as it might all turn to poo.Sometimes in the manuals, not only the part no is listed but the manufacturer also.Have you started a WTB thread in case anybody has a non-working PCB that they are prepared to rip the BNC's from for you?I would re-visthttp://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/tekparts.htmlask ask them for a non-working PCB for the BNC'sYou say the originals are bent, but can the guts be pressed out and replaced?

author: theatrus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2014, 11:58:39 pm
content: I would not drill holes. If the mounting post fits in either set of holes, can you bend the center lead enough to fit?

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2014, 12:01:17 am
content: Quote from: geo_leeman on June 23, 2014, 11:29:44 pmProbably Ok, but there's not much PCB to play with - and you only get the one shot.I think I would look at machining the lugs off the BNC and either; drilling and inserting four thick copper wires (if possible), or machining the lugs and base off completely (requires a lathe or deft file work) and wrapping a couple of straps of thick copper wire around the whole connector, then soldering the whole lot together. At least it's only the cost of the connector if it doesn't workout.

author: PaulAm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2014, 12:32:13 am
content: Definitely modify the connectors and not the PCB

author: geo_leeman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2014, 12:40:53 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on June 23, 2014, 11:58:06 pmIn this case the service manual just calls out the main board assembly with not even a P/N for the connectors. The folks at sphere.bc.ca replied to my email saying they didn't have anything that would work for me, but I'll try the WTB section. The originals have the outer shell bent. (Photo)Quote from: theatrus on June 23, 2014, 11:58:39 pmI may be able to, but then the BNC is too far in or out to be useable with the front panel on.Quote from: Andy Watson on June 24, 2014, 12:01:17 amThat may be the way to go. I'll be traveling home next week and have access to a mill/lathe. If I can't find any parts by then I may try to mill the bottom flat and drill holes for wire. Hopefully I can get the whole thing warm enough without melting the innards to firmly affix the copper. Silver epoxy would be the best solution possibly?I thought replacing the connectors would be the easiest part of this project, but turns out fixing the power supply issues was far easier!

author: mzzj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2014, 06:02:19 pm
content: Quote from: geo_leeman on June 24, 2014, 12:40:53 pmIf possible try to drill holes trough and use something like (copper) nail in the hole.Or you can probably smash the wire end like a rivet so that it wont slip trough the hole and you get mechanical fastening for the pins to the connector body.That way you don't need to heat the entire connector to soldering temperature.

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2014, 07:06:52 pm
content: QuoteI had a HP item a little while ago with a similarly trashed BNC connector. I found it much easier to repair the connector than acquire a new one! Looking at your photo, I would think it is possible to get those straight and circular again, at least enough to function as they're meant to - my one was about midway between the two in terms of damage.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2014, 08:27:58 pm
content: Turn up a few little mandrels on the lathe and gently/progressively peen the BNC's back into shape.I seem to remember years ago having a BNC connector without 1 of the little locking lugs, just a hole where it had been, so you might be advised to be gentle.Quite doable IMO.

author: xygor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2014, 10:50:46 pm
content: It looks like you're lookin' for tek *TDS* 224 and not a 224, right? It became more clear when the panel picture was posted. The closest thing so far that I found is that TE one others have suggested. Another thought: mount a bulkhead to the panel and wire it to the board.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2014, 11:24:44 pm
content: Thinking these Teks are made in Asia thought I have a look there:http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Right-angle-jack-pcb-mount-BNC-Connctor/1503892893.htmlI know it is different, but I think it has possibilities.BTW seller describes themselves as a manufacturer of RF connectors so it might be worthwhile sending them an email and photo.

author: geo_leeman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2014, 09:52:46 pm
content: Quote from: xygor on June 24, 2014, 10:50:46 pmCorrect. TDS224. I have the TE connectors now and may end up modding them. Tektronix also told me to contact their support group (via twitter), so maybe they can pull a few out of the junk bin.