on wirebrushes : should they be lubricated? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2016, 04:42:39 pm
content: So I apply lubricant to files. I use 3in1 dry lubricant currently. I tend to use a heavier lubricant for cutting with a sawzall and just wipe it off afterwords (motor oil, wax or standard lubricant. I am still experimenting to see what performs the best).The files seem to actually work better. Particularly aluminum files (smoother action, less clogging). I really like the dry lubricant. I will test the WD40 specialist spray on dry lubricant...Anyway, this begs the question. Is there any benefit to lubricating metal brushes? They seems fairly corrosion resistant, but is there mechanical benefit? Will the characteristic of the polish they give change?

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2016, 06:35:08 pm
content: Good question. For manual wire brush cleaning of firearm barrels, I always use a little of whatever cleaner/lubricant I am using (e.g., Hoppe's). It seems to keep the loosened reside from re-sitcking and maybe facilitates breaking it free in the first place. Problem is, I have never done it without lubricant to compare.I am interested to learn whether anyone has compared wet and dry power wire brushing. Aside from the mess, I suspect the cutting action might be more aggressive.John

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 01:18:48 am
content: I wonder if they will heat up less from friction and increase the life of the bristle?Those dry lubricants are pretty interesting. I don't know their longevity but its not lubricant like you are used to... no real greasy mess. That's why I use them on files, if files are greasy then stuff sticks to them because of surface tension effects or whatever. If I get a rusty file I will soak it in rust remover, wash, get rid of the excess water with wd-40 water dis placer, then wash that off with acetone and put on the dry lubricant.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 01:31:18 am
content: Quote from: jpanhalt on June 19, 2016, 06:35:08 pmDON'T.The bluing will be damaged without lubricants.Personally I only use oiled steel wool as I've damaged firearm bluing with oiled Scotchbrite.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 01:36:08 am
content: Quote from: sarepairman2 on June 20, 2016, 01:18:48 amFor a hand powered brush they'll be little to worry about however a cup or wheel brush on a grinder....well I think the speed that they rotate at they're probably well enough cooled by air.

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2016, 10:56:06 pm
content: yes but heat is generated. with lubrication the heat is not generated. the generation of heat and loss of heat may effect the material properties.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2016, 11:11:18 pm
content: Quote from: sarepairman2 on June 21, 2016, 10:56:06 pmI've never even induced tempering colors in anything I've power brushed, I believe you're over-thinking this.When you need to buff/brush stuff you need some abrasive properties, any lubrication will reduce abrasion.

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2016, 11:20:43 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on June 20, 2016, 01:31:18 amAs an alternative to steel wool is a penny with oil (pre 1982). Just tried it on a very rusty barrel and it works. Got the idea from YT. I hate working with steel wool.One thing about using a powered wire brush is the dust. Oil will prevent this. So if I had to use inside, I would use oil. If outside, I would not (because the oil will make a mess on its own)

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 01:39:38 am
content: Quote from: tautech on June 21, 2016, 11:11:18 pmif the angular velocity of the brush is high and it is held so that the brush is only making contact with the very tip (i.e. little deflection) they might be significant transfer in pure kinetic energy collision rather then abrasion. Almost a "bead blasting" effect rather then any kind of scraping effect