FLUKE 107 - absolute garbage lasted 2 years - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: christian.burger
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 28, 2024, 05:30:21 pm
content: I have a Fluke 107 that is giving me just above 30% error in my voltage, current, resistance readings.I've asked an authorized Fluke repair center how can I calibrate it. They gave me a quote which is the price of a brand new one.From what I could find, there's no way to adjust the readings, there' s no calibration mode or calibration procedure available for this model.This is absurd in so many levels, so I wanted to vent a bit and find out if anyone faced this issue.Also, just in case I'm wrong and someone knows how to calibrate manually, please let me know.

author: mendip_discovery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2024, 09:48:00 pm
content: What did you do to the poor thing?How do you know it's that far off?You have tried new batteries.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2024, 09:59:12 pm
content: if that dont help you can still do some basic checks like measure the power rail voltage inside the device if you can find it, it might be as simple as a bad LDO or something. There is a chance its actually broken, not that it needs adjustment.One part of the reason why some calibration is not recommended is because.. cheap asses will just "favor" the idea that the calibration drifted, not that there is a problem with the meter.Software people especially. Reads 2V should read 6? it means add +4 to calibration duhmeanwhile the reference is bad and its providing like 1.5 instead of 2.5v and everything is totally whacked outA sway bar thing fell off my lawn mower. I stopped for 30 min to find the bolt in the dirt and fix it. I can see the software guy duck walking around with his back at a 45 degree angle to keep the lawn mower steady so he can finish the jobif fluke sees a 30% error in full scale, it means something is FUCKED. They gave you a parts replacement bill

author: christian.burger
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 12:51:30 am
content: @mendip_discovery: You made me laugh, thank you for that.Yes, I replaced the batteries.I'm not sure what happened, I've always treated with a lot of care...I know it's that far off because I have other multimeters.

author: christian.burger
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 12:59:13 am
content: @coppercone2: You also made me laugh, thanks, and I see your point, even being now a software guy myselfIt looks like now I have a yellow paper weight.I will inspect a bit inside sometime also to see what I can find.Hopefully you see how this is absurd, they offer no fix, no attempt to fix, just a replacement... and I don't even get a discount.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 01:11:51 am
content: you need to look for burned out parts and if you can ID some chips see if the voltage is near where you think it should be.A CRACKED solder joint can cause big error too. Its handheld, that stuff gets cracked joints

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 01:24:05 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on June 28, 2024, 09:59:12 pmDude get a magnetic pickup tool from Harbor Freight - I have one it's a lifesaver.https://www.harborfreight.com/long-reach-magnetic-pickup-tool-with-quick-release-93950.html?_br_psugg_q=magnetic+pickup+tool

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 01:26:55 am
content: oh yeah i have that but it did not work for some reason. it fell into a clump of grass, it would need to be dangerously strong. that is good tool for cleaning wire brush strands after angle grinder or bench wheel.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 01:40:32 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on June 29, 2024, 01:26:55 amI dunno what brands you have tried but that one I linked has a crazy strong magnet that will pull a nail or nut from a clump of grass ... but back to your topic.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 08:09:34 am
content: When such a meter is off calibration, there is a reason to it and it needs more than just recalibration / adjustment (maybe except for the rare case of lost / faulty cal data).Just a readjustment would only gove you an unreliable meter that has a good chance to drift even further.With most lower cost handheld meters a repair is not really sensitble: unless there is a known weakness typical defect the cost of the repair can get too high. Part of the problem is cleaning the board after soldering. Also the calibration after a repair is relatively expensice compared to the costs of the meter - with handheld one it often need someone to actually more the switch.The Fluke quote for a "repair" is close to a new meter, because you would likely get a new meter (maybe less the probes).

author: Arhigos
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 10:23:32 am
content: I believe there is cal button in the battery compartment. But if its 30% off you probably have some hardware failure.Also, calibration mode is for service centers, calibration labs, etc. Not for regular owners.. That applies for any brand of test equipment

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 12:19:09 pm
content: As others have hinted, carefully inspect the interior of your meter for any faults.My experience with its sibling Fluke 101 was very disappointing and hinted to a lower degree of quality control. If the 107 is similar, I wouldn't be surprised that yours could have been a victim of the same reason.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-1574-is-the-$42-fluke-101-multimeter-any-good/msg5152701/#msg5152701Good luck in your repair!

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 05:59:35 pm
content: Don't confuse sending something for calibration with having it adjusted. Sending something for calibration generally means that it will be tested and you get a pass fail with a detailed report. They will not adjust it for you. As others have said if it is 30% then something in badly wrong. If it were out by twice as much as it is supposed to be then yea maybe it needs a nudge, but 30% is faulty.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 06:19:39 pm
content: even from the factory its super suspicious if its 30% error. They will have 1% resistors in there or better and a reference that is pretty accurate.I don't think it can even be lost cal data for 30%, it must be faulty cal data (bad chip giving bizzaro numbers), and I am surprised the program does not say "this is outside the bounds of adjustment for the chip".I think it must be a analog problem. The cal just brings the cheapish analog circuit from say 5% intrinsic accuracy to 0.1% accuracy. 30% is extremethe cal is a virtual version of the litle adjustment screw you have in your dial gauge. In this case the dial gauge is bent IMO

author: shapirus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 06:33:57 pm
content: But hold on, just 2 years? Should it not be still covered by warranty?

author: J-R
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 08:42:50 pm
content: Warranty is 1 year on the 107, at least in the US:https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/electrical-testing/digital-multimeters/pocket-107

author: christian.burger
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 11:11:05 pm
content: Thanks, that actually helped, I found some 4 contact pins for calibration.There is a calibration window beneath the battery compartment, which accesses 4 gold plated pads in PCB(WP9, WP8, WP7, WP6).I have no idea how to use them though, does anyone know?

author: TomKatt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2024, 11:18:22 pm
content: I’m no expert, but I can’t believe the issue is as simple as calibration…. 30% deviation is pretty substantial - there must be a hardware fault somewhere. Even if you were able to correct the reading by some calibration routine, I don’t think that I’d ever trust that meter again.

author: EggertEnjoyer123
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 01:38:12 am
content: As others have said, the chance that this is a software error is pretty much zero. I would not mess with the calibration at all.You’ll have to open up the meter. If everything is off by the same amount, it is probably the voltage reference.

author: Arts
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 03:32:35 am
content: The most common failures that I have found in Fluke meters involve the components in the input circuitry. Over-voltages/transients/spikes are usually responsible.Oftentimes, these components will only act up after a certain voltage level is applied, but can also cause problems regardless of operating conditions.I would think that this model has a very similar input arrangement as the usual Fluke meters, so I would suspect the following:Varistors, Spark Gap, Input Resistors.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 04:20:56 am
content: These small Flukes, they deleted the usual protection zener-connected transistors.So I don't expect them to be robust in certain situations. Not the same protection despite the familiar parts such as surge resistor, PTC, MOV's.TVS D1 is across the battery so the BAV199 CR1 might dump overvoltages there - still a terrible idea.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 05:20:45 am
content: Quote from: floobydust on June 30, 2024, 04:20:56 amMy Fluke 107 survived five positive and negative 14kV 100us full width half height transients through a 2 ohm source. Very few meters I have looked at would survive that level. While the 107 was eventually damaged at 15kV, I was able to repair it and it is still fully functional today. Sadly I can't say that about many of the meters I have looked at and they get recycled.It's not even a question of cost. I have a Fluke 101 that has yet to be damaged with all my testing and it cost less than $50. Consider I ran a Keysight U1282A that was closer to $800 which couldn't survive the same levels as my cheap Amprobe AM510. And with all the custom parts, it could not be repaired.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 06:57:54 am
content: lol I got it. Calibrating a 30% error with software is like if a dial gauge not reading right, so you take it apart and paint over the scale.I seen that before when its really underfunded. You get sharpie marks that indicate where the real value is. Then they assume its still linear.Then the employee training is like how to understand managers sharpie marks.Like a mark on the 5 psi mark that says 30. So you rescaled a reading of 5 psi to indicate 30 psi. Clearly does not need to be replaced.The magic of the look up table (just assume its still linear)

author: factory
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 11:42:57 am
content: Was there any battery leakage from the previous set of batteries?David

author: christian.burger
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 02:58:50 pm
content: Yes, there was battery leakage and I've reconstructed the terminals. It's working fine other than the readings which are off, but also I don't think that is related to the problem, unless you know something specific about that.I agree that it's most likely toast, but would like to try and use the calibration terminals just to see what I can get before I throw it away.I could not find any reference to the WP9, WP8, WP7, WP6 calibration terminals anywhere.

author: TomKatt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 03:14:05 pm
content: Quote from: christian.burger on June 30, 2024, 02:58:50 pmI lost track, but it seems like this is the first mention of battery leakage? I’m not a big believer in coincidence - there has to be a connection.

author: shapirus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 03:23:27 pm
content: Quote from: christian.burger on June 30, 2024, 02:58:50 pmCheck this one out:

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 04:01:31 pm
content: Quote from: joeqsmith on June 30, 2024, 05:20:45 amNo, it's the Ohms source protection that I'm questioning. I don't see the clamp semi's on the boardpics.That has to handle significant current until the PTC heats up, which takes several seconds for long surges.Did you apply transients (either polarity) to the multimeter on Ohms? I can't remember if your transient generator can output either polarity, you don't give out info about it.ESD testing I've done is 10 hits with both polarities. A BBQ lighter is only one. It's possible to protect against one polarity but not the other.

author: factory
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 04:07:13 pm
content: Quote from: TomKatt on June 30, 2024, 03:14:05 pmThere was no mention before, but there was mention of the batteries being replaced, but not why.From experience battery leakage can make a right mess and cause leave conductive mess behind & corrode away fine traces.Was it caused by Duraleak by any chance?For example there is a thermometer at work that had batteries leak, it works fine at lab temperatures of 20°C, take it anywhere else it measures way, way out of spec. It's been out for calibration several times to the crappy external company work uses now, they pass it every time, hopefully someone has junked it by now as it's unusable.David

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 04:28:23 pm
content: Quote from: floobydust on June 30, 2024, 04:01:31 pmSorry you lost me. I have gone over the waveforms many times over the years and where they came from.When I wrote "... survived five positive and negative 14kV 100us ..." it would be understood that was both polarities. As always, I subject the meter to 5 transients of each polarity. I do this for every function the meter has except those involving current. This is the way I have always conducted these tests. For the 107, that electrically has 5 functions, that is 5 transients X 2 polarities X 5 functions, or 50 transients. I run that for each voltage level. For the 107, there were a minimum of 10 levels, so a bit over 500 transients.As far as your comment: "... I don't see the clamp semi's on the board...", they are certainly present in the photos you linked. I would assume your inability to identify them is just a lack of education on your part. No big deal. It doesn't help that many expert reviewers will point to PTC and call them MOVs or point to diodes and call them resistors. For a non educated viewer, it just adds confusion. As far as how the clamps actually work, I have gone over that a few times.The resistance and other low voltage modes are protected with the high speed clamps which are downstream from the PTC and surge rated resistors. This is what was damaged on my 107 when I applied the 15kV transient. I went over the repairs.The 107 is a very electrically robust meter. Calling it absolute garbage after the OP leaves the batteries in for an extended time says more about the owner than the product.

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 04:51:28 pm
content: if this meter had alkaline battery failure then the pcb needs a vinegar-wash.alkaline batteries dont leak liquid, it's a vapor and it gets into and under stuff.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 05:41:44 pm
content: I use vinegar to neutralize the salts, with a toothbrush scrub. Then a water rinse, then repeat but with IPA and let it dry overnight or in an oven.Some parts of the circuit board are very sensitive to leakage currents. Hard part is the rotary switch lube, washing that off leads to a new problem for the switch.Quote from: joeqsmith on June 30, 2024, 04:28:23 pmI agree the OP could be too angry about the warranty or self-inflicted leaking battery damage. Some forums forbid titles containing judgements or slander/smearing and we might need that here.So your tests find the 107 electrically robust and not OP's problem.The MOV's only bring the transient voltage down to 910-1,500V (hard clamp 25A). It's still too high for the silicon, so clamp zener-connected transistors or TVS are usually used for the second level protection. "high speed clamps" well there's a single BAV199 clamping to what? Compare with the 17B schematic. It's hard to speculate without a 107 schematic but eyeballs show no clamp transistors as well as missing MOV #3. TVS D1 implies they're dumping transients to the power rails and assuming the battery helps - which is new and further economy. That's why I'm saying they could have made a mistake, have to be very careful.OP, you can't calibrate out a hardware problem. 30% out is too much, fix the hardware first and remember to hate Duracell and love your Fluke lol.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 05:43:53 pm
content: Please post a clear photo of the PCB (preferably both sides) so that we can see the extent of any contamination / corrosion.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 06:41:13 pm
content: Quote from: stj on June 30, 2024, 04:51:28 pmits not a vapor, its a aerosol. The only vapor they make is water. What they can do is spritz a mist that settles on various parts, and leak liquid that wicks up surfaces, and wicks up wires (like a sponge).If it evaporates into a vapor, its water that leaves the electrolyte caustic chemicals behind as a solid.The battery consists of various inorganic chemicals, water and some specialty additives (surfactant, etc)If the battery were to leak out, and then peacefully dry up in a puddle on the bottom of the battery cavity, you would only have humidity damage in the meter. But usually it starts misting (hissing, high pressure) and it makes corrosive fog.vapor is actually evaporated stuff in molecular gas form. A lead acid battery WILL make some small amount of corrosive VAPOR because it has sulfuric acid in there (a chemical that does not vaporize easily, but it will in fact make corrosive acid gas if it does). Thankfully sulfuric acid does not like to vaporize and it takes a really hot malfunctioning battery to start essentially boiling H2SO4 aqueous into H2SO4 vapor.If you ever come across a alkaline battery leak, it often sounds like a capacitor pop, followed by intermittent hissing or farting noises after that.

author: factory
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 06:56:44 pm
content: I guess the next question is, were the old batteries that were removed, supplied by Fluke with the meterornot?David

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 08:05:40 pm
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on June 30, 2024, 06:41:13 pmNot even an aerosol - the battery's potassium hydroxide electrolyte will wick and creep via electrolysis. The ions (current flow) causes that stuff to travel, then it seems to dry out and crystalize as potassuium carbonate.I'm saying (along with Energizer in their seal patent) that the leaks are some strange ion migration, along the case metal and then to the PCB per Murphy's Law.Yesterday I popped open a label printer to find 6 AA leaking Duracells taking the piss, what a mess. No spray or squirt etc. KOH just travelled along the plastic compartment.I wonder why Fluke is using bare copper vias, they could tent them at no extra cost. Western Digital has many controller boards oxidize and copper vias suffer creep corrosion, with a little help from sulphur in the air.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 08:40:21 pm
content: Quote from: floobydust on June 30, 2024, 05:41:44 pmI have no idea what the problem is with the OP's meter. I am only responding to your comments on the meter's robustness based on data I have collected for it.Quote from: floobydust on June 30, 2024, 05:41:44 pmYes, that is the purpose of the MOVs and why I mentioned the high speed clamps that follow them when the low voltage circuits (like the resistance mode) is selected. Again, I damaged these parts on the 107, the video shows me replacing them. The photos you link did not show the bottom side of the board so of course they are not shown there but they certainly exist. Their choice for the high speed clamp holds up well against my testing. Like most of the better meters I have looked at, it saved the parts downstream from damage. The majority of the meters I have looked at were not repairable. Interesting enough a member here repeated the tests I performed with the 101 on an actual combo generator with the same results.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 08:58:03 pm
content: Quote from: floobydust on June 30, 2024, 08:05:40 pmits both believe me. Wear eye protection if you change a recently leaked cell. It squirt and spray. Before I heard it like a steam over pressure valve lol.Sometimes the cell gets real hot and starts leaking. I assume its a short circuit of some kind (maybe the electrolyte is shorting it out and increasing pressure on the top)I had one cell that burst, then every few minutes I hear a spritzer type noise for like 15 min before I found it, and it was pretty hot too

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 09:48:07 pm
content: Quote from: christian.burger on June 30, 2024, 02:58:50 pmThere was battery leakage but sure meter suddenly started reading wrong not because electrolyte got somewhere on the PCB but because meter is garbage. Yeah, right.

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 09:58:49 pm
content: i repair industrial pcb's with leaked batteries on them every week - have for decades.it's not a spray.and dont trust lithium AA or half-AA cells either, they eventually corrode from the inside and let hell loose on your pcb.as for the alkaline problem, i have seen a theory that they leak now because the formula was changed for political reasons and they removed the mercury that stabilised the mix.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 10:17:09 pm
content: it mists. I saw it. There was even a spray pattern on the ESD mat from the spray. it discolors it! its like you hit it with a spray bottle of dyeThey can either vent and totally leak or progressively vent spurtzing if they get under pressure

author: Caliaxy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2024, 03:29:33 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on June 30, 2024, 06:41:13 pmWe learned something today

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2024, 03:37:07 am
content: because it happened and I went looking for a capacitor (try to see smoke near vents of equipment) before I realized its right in front of me after I heard it let out a hiss a few minutes laterI literarly thought like a small electrolytic capacitor popped open. Same noise if you reverse polarity a capacitor. Not a bang, more like that doofpop, with a bit of that 'rushing' noise

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 01, 2024, 06:16:03 am
content: well battery compartments are not liquid proof, somewhere it probably got onto the board. I think flukes quote was accurate. You need a new meter. Test equipment has to damn well work, or you can't do anything else. It is your reference, so it's right to be more particular about just replacing a dud one.

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2024, 11:17:02 pm
content: I understand about being harsh on OP for not mentioning battery leakage to start with, besides it must have been severe enough if battery contacts needed rework.Not updating with pictures of the multimeter isn't in his favour either, still it isn't absolute proof that his negligence wrecked it...I've repaired about 10 DMM's hit by battery contamination, none have exhibited being false by a constant ratio, it has always been fluctuating depending on measurements.If OP could get back to us with some pictures and measurements it may be possible to save his Fluke.Attached datasheet for COB, a good starting point is supply voltages and Vref (should be 1.16V)

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2024, 10:26:01 am
content: There is a poll about right to repair perhaps some of the meters were built not repairable. I know Fluke doesn't repair the 11x series. When I called them about a 116 that failed during warranty they told me to send it in for them to destroy and they sent me a new one. They said they can't fix the 116. So I think the 107 is the same but because the OP meter is out of warranty so they told him to buy new one.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2024, 12:29:29 pm
content: If the 107 uses a commodity chip and if the chip is available like the datasheet, then it probably puts it in the user repairable class (at least for electronic damage), unlike most other Fluke meters. A PCB eaten by battery electrolyte is possibly a different matter though. Chip replacement would require getting the COB off the PCB of course, which is usually no easy task.Such a repair would obviously not be economically viable for the manufacturer, but determined folk don't often factor in their time (in the case of bin finds).

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2024, 06:34:06 pm
content: The problem with replacing FS98O24 is that it requires some application specific programming (DMM manufacturer specific customisation).I don't know how much of a hinder to repair it is in this case.The cal constants and user adjustments don't seem too difficult for the Fluke 107.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 02, 2024, 07:12:11 pm
content: Quote from: BeBuLamar on July 02, 2024, 10:26:01 amIt's not just a case of not made for repair. If component level troubleshooting takes some time then the cost of that time outweighs a new meter that will have way more chance of working just fine than an attempt at a repair. TV repairers - remember those when TV's were so expensive, used to charge a flat rate per repair. The reason was that if the charged the real repair cost they would make nothing from the easy stuff and the cost to the customer on a hard repair would be so high that it would not be financially viable or deemed BER, beyond economically repairable.

author: David Aurora
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2024, 11:34:14 pm
content: Quote from: christian.burger on June 29, 2024, 12:51:30 amQuote from: christian.burger on June 30, 2024, 02:58:50 pmWhy do people always have to have details about damage dragged out of themAs a repairer it absolutely drives me nuts, and it's a massive percentage of people who do this for whatever bizarre reason. "I don't know what happened, it just turned off and wouldn't turn back on" "I see. And the scorch marks?" "Oh, that. Yeah it was in a house fire. But it worked fine before that!"

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2024, 11:50:53 pm
content: Being a repair person too I must say that knowing exactly how and when things went wrong helps an awful lot in trouble shooting most of the time.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2024, 11:55:25 pm
content: Quote from: David Aurora on July 02, 2024, 11:34:14 pm"FLUKE 107 - absolute garbage lasted 2 years!!"(PS: I let some batteries leak inside it...)

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 12:00:22 am
content: Quote from: David Aurora on July 02, 2024, 11:34:14 pmYou finish repairing complicated laboratory device at remote location (after asking thoroughly about all the issues), assemble it all back, then find some other fault during the final testing. When asked: "ah that, that was not working for months (if not years)". And here we go again.

author: David Aurora
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 07:58:26 am
content: Quote from: wraper on July 03, 2024, 12:00:22 am1000%, it's so much more infuriating when you're out there on a callout. Like for fucks sake, just tell me in advance and I'll plan accordingly/bring extra spare parts or tools I might need/etc. Everybody is better off that way.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 10:12:29 am
content: Quote from: David Aurora on July 03, 2024, 07:58:26 amThe most fun part is when that location is 5000-10000km away and you start googling what electronic component shops they have in a few hundred km vicinity of nowhere or take apart and try fixing $1 partjust to avoid wasting a few days only to get there and back (you can forget about fast shipping there).

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 10:35:15 am
content: If the OP used Energizer or RayOVac batteries and they leaked he could claim to them and they will pay for a new 107.

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 01:11:39 pm
content: Quote from: BeBuLamar on July 03, 2024, 10:35:15 amgood luck with that - read the smallprint.

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 07:41:23 pm
content: Quote from: stj on July 03, 2024, 01:11:39 pmYou don't know until you tried. I had RayOVac batteries leaked and damaged my 2 D cells Maglite. I called them, they asked me to take pictures show the damage. The date of the batteries etc.. Also a link to Amazon where they sell the flashlight for the value reference. They gave me coupons for replacement batteries and $50 for the flashlight. The 107 is about $85 I think they would go for it. One thing I noticed that they were not surprised that their batteries do leak.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 08:51:24 pm
content: It's interesting - do we blame:OP - for not using his multimeter very often, for having dead batteries, for telling us late that it's hit with battery leakage.Battery Manufacturer - my money is on Duracell for the big leak.Fluke - it's an electrically weak design and died due to a weeny transient (my initial vote, Joe killed that)Fluke - battery compartment designed to funnel leaky battery goo right onto the jungle IC and kill it.Fluke - Repair/Calibration is impossible, resistance is futile, you will be assimilated. Just buy a new one USD $156Leaking Duracell, they did cough up $40 for a new Maglite.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 09:09:51 pm
content: Quote from: BeBuLamar on July 03, 2024, 07:41:23 pmBecause they do leak. I don't use them since they leaked in my U1272A for a second time. The first time I needed to replace a whole backside housing as battery contacts are not available separately and half of them were totally destroyed. Second time it I caught it earlier so damage was not that serious so taking slightly corroded contacts out of the housing and washing everything was enough. I basically said fuck alkalines and I got rid of them in all of my devices and use LSD NiMH rechargeable batteries instead.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 10:21:12 pm
content: Quote from: floobydust on July 03, 2024, 08:51:24 pmGiven the low cost of the meter it feels acceptable. Their priority is making it cheap and quick to assemble/program/calibrate through those back holes.Though if this were a $500 meter, they should have sprung for the ~25c cost to glue up the battery contacts to prevent liquid passing through the shell at all.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2024, 11:15:33 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on July 03, 2024, 09:09:51 pmProblem is many multimeters don't specify battery compatibility with different chemistries.Fluke 107 "Battery Type 2 AAA, NEDA 24A, IEC LR03" wow so much info. What voltage range?LSD Eneloop are a bit lower voltage than alkaline for a brief period initially, guessing around 1.35V and not sure when DMM low batt icon comes on. I'll try some out.Energizer Ultimate LithiumL92peak at 1.8V briefly when new, most DMM IC's will take 3.6V

author: Caliaxy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2024, 04:34:37 pm
content: Quote from: floobydust on July 03, 2024, 11:15:33 pmSo just a friendly reminder: don't try that at home if you have a BM235...

author: najrao
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2024, 11:48:12 am
content: Not a DMM, but an Anritsu 'Sitemaster' spectrum analyser. When I got it, it was still snugly in it's beautiful carry bag, complete with two software CD's and 'standard accessories'.The original 18V 1.8Ah NiMH 'SM-Energy' made in USAcustombattery was still inside the compartment. It used Panasonic cells, and, unusual for such a battery pack, a 'BMS' with its owncustomIC, not to mention two thermistors for temperature reporting.Now, the battery would not pull out from the instrument, so I parted the case halves to look inside. Attach 1. The battery had spewed so much liquid that it was wet everywhere around the case walls on both halves. The dried up disaster had to be seen to be believed.After much vinegar, isopropyl , and elbow grease, just you look how I made all the goo go away. Attach 2-6. Damage to boards was only on just one inconsequential edge each.The sitemaster works without battery, and it did, perfectly, on first power up.Edit: Attach 1 has become the last, I am afraid.