hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
"Hack" old iMac to power it from 12V - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jakkas
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 29, 2020, 10:18:21 am
content: Hi guys!First off all, I don't know if this is the right place to get help from other people.My Idea was to replace the iMac powersupply to, for example add a battery and to make it kind of portable.I disassembled it about a month ago and took some pictures of the powersupply, let's see if I still have them. I searched on YouTube if someone allready done this but it looks like no one ever had such a stupid idea.I hope someone more andvanced can help me, so I don't fry my machine.

author: OM222O
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2020, 10:33:14 am
content: There is a reason that you have desktops and laptops: power consumption. I mac chugs power, I'm not sure about exact numbers but the PSU should gibe you a good idea of the power rating. If you want to power it from lipo cells for more than 10 minutes, you need a huge pack of them, plus some buck converters to convert to voltages like 12, 5 and 3.3 (I'm again not sure about exact different power lines of a mac, you should measure from PSU). All in all, forget about making it portable. The amount of weight and space the batteries add make that impossible.
HACK Rigol DS2072 ....  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: max-bit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2013, 06:52:11 pm
content: Hi everyone.(I'm not the author of the film and program)Found on YoutubeFile:https://rapidshare.com/#!download|744p2|3582066885|Rigol%20DS2000%20trial%20hack.rar|6479|0|0|1|referer-F3F7A8786E59F8E93BC5A87C62178C64Did this work? The need to testSomeone who has a DS2072Frequency Response Test and oscilloscope functions.If it works, it's great news...What you need to do: (I do not have an oscilloscope Rigol)1 Check if it works at all2 Are the serial bus decoding functions3 Is increasing the memory to 56 M4 Are changes the frequency response of theIf it works just now develop a small PCB with a program to install it inside the oscilloscope.It saves about $ 1000

author: ve7xen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2013, 06:59:27 pm
content: Discussed here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/sniffing-the-rigol%27s-internal-i2c-bus/Forum user studio25 is responsible for that hack. I'm not aware of anyone else trying it yet, but it should work based on others' analysis of the situation.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 26, 2013, 10:05:08 am
content: Hello the download link doesn't work any more, please help.https://rapidshare.com/#!download|744p2|3582066885|Rigol%20DS2000%20trial%20hack.rar|6479|0|0|1|referer-F3F7A8786E59F8E93BC5A87C62178C64

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2013, 10:45:36 am
content: Read the thread ve7xen posted...
Hackable 2-12s lipo charger for smart and dumb batteries - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: echogee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 06, 2020, 12:36:49 am
content: I use chargers to charge lipo batteries for some time. But always found the interface not optimized to charge fast specifically when there are different battery types.Building a design to do that. Also wanted to have a charger that does a wide cell count. The charger can charge smart battery and dumb battery interface. Have datalines for I2C, CAN and LIN bus to connect to smart battery.Planning to opensource the firmware part if folks are interested.Specs on the charger:Power: 500W totalTwo charging portsMax current: 20A per portData interface: I2C, CANBUS, LIN busCell support: 2-12S lipo or 53v maxComments ?

author: sandalcandal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 06, 2020, 01:51:52 am
content: Sounds cool. Nice looking mechanical design. You got any electrical specifications or more details to share? That'd help give some points for commenting on.

author: echogee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 06, 2020, 02:01:56 am
content: Specs on the charger:Power: 500W totalTwo charging portsMax current: 20A per portData interface: I2C, CANBUS, LIN busCell support: 2-12S lipo or 53v max

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2020, 02:31:12 am
content: You would be best to make it also able to handle LiFePO4.

author: echogee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 06, 2020, 02:34:49 am
content: It can handle that yes

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2020, 03:17:31 am
content: Quote from: echogee on November 06, 2020, 12:36:49 amIs that per charging port or total?

author: echogee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 06, 2020, 03:01:15 pm
content: Thats per port. Each port can handle 12s battery. Total power is limited to 500w

author: echogee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 17, 2020, 04:54:31 pm
content: We are planning to launch BatCha on a crowdfunding campaign. Some details are here:https://bit.ly/2Ux40uGwith some early bird discounts

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2020, 07:59:17 pm
content: If you want to open source it, then I'd look at a COTS extruded enclosure, and then you can release some STL files for people to print the end caps.Polycase has a wide offeringhttps://www.polycase.com/extruded-aluminum-enclosuresLots of stuff from Hammond and Bud over at Allied Electronicshttps://www.alliedelec.com/view/search/?category=2|2510415/2737925&keyword=extruded%20aluminum

author: echogee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 17, 2020, 08:25:38 pm
content: The hardware isn't planned to be open source
Hackaday Clock A Day Entry: CMOS Logic Clock Completed - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: MarioGianota
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 16, 2021, 07:52:27 pm
content: I finally completed construction of the CMOS logic clock and have made the PCB Gerber filesavailable for download to anyone that would like to build one.Full project details at:https://hackaday.io/project/176063-hackaday-clock-a-day-entry-cmos-logic-clock
Hacked Chinese reverb - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Teledog
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2024, 12:55:26 am
content: So, bought a Grand "Fender reverb re-issue" reverb unit from Ali (supposedly free shipping)Seller asked for more $$ for shipping, and I did so.Arrived "not working". (got a $225 refund off a ~$600 investment)The 6V6 plate/cathode had no connections, after adding/wiring the connections, ..it was intermittent (there was a fine strand of wire between some tube pins, may have been me, or?)Anyway, decided to hack the "already beater" unit, added another tank (a MOD long, 3 spring-long decay) Original was a medium, 2 spring-medium decay.Added a 3PDT switch, (for switching between tanks), took out the dangling participle power cord & foot switch wires, added a PEM & jack, a "real" 1W tone pot, chassis nuts, etc..Still a "beater" but it sounds great!

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2024, 04:37:19 am
content: Right so they use, or used to use, springs in amps for reverb. Someday I'll have to look up a circuit for that, and other effects. I play guitar once and a while, years ago I had a nice Marshall amp with springs for reverb. I can't guess how they use them in the circuits, to make reverb.

author: pcprogrammer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2024, 06:51:23 am
content: Quote from: MathWizard on April 01, 2024, 04:37:19 amVery simple. The spring is driven at one end with something like a speaker coil and monitored at the other end with a pickup. The sound travels through the spring with a delay.

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2024, 11:56:29 pm
content: So sad, money spent off-shore for another non-working piece of shit.

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2024, 12:44:14 am
content: Quote from: MathWizard on April 01, 2024, 04:37:19 amBasically it's a mechanical delay with plenty of resonances as a bonus! If you want something freaky (well .. I was freaked-out by it) check-out Uncle Doug on youtube dabbling with an "oil can" reverb.

author: Teledog
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2024, 02:36:32 am
content: And then there's the plate reverb;https://youtu.be/u6eZ_JbmBDwWouldn't mind making one.. if I hade more real estate..Here's how to (ab)use a stand-alone spring reverb.. notice the foot smashing/tilting of the unit for the crash soundhttps://youtu.be/9M4dZw37i7sAnd yes, the Jazzmaster & Gretsch sound great with it :-)
Hacking a pH probe - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: HarlanKing
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2015, 04:05:32 am
content: Hi,I'm trying to get a pH probe working with arduino, and i'm wondering what the wires labeled "int" and "ref" would mean.I think ref means reference, but have no idea what int would be for. I assume it will output a voltage based on the pH read, with pH 7 being 0V.Any advice on making this work with an arduino? Or any insight into how a pH sensor works?There's only 2 wires labelled int and ref. That's it..Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk

author: Paul Moir
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2015, 04:34:26 am
content: Bit of a guess, but maybe the internal element and reference junction connections? There *could* be a temperature probe in it for compensation, but it's normally a thermistor so that should be easy to identify.pH probes are pretty much just batteries, but the output is very high impedance. pH meters typically have gigaohm input impedance. Have a look at Fig 23 herehttp://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lmc6001.pdffor an example amplifier.The probes drift around so much that in many applications they must be calibrated daily with some known buffer solutions.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2015, 01:10:32 pm
content: Yes, a pH probe is designed to work into an electrometer input, it can't output ANY significant current. Your cheapest and easiest solution would be an LMC662 in non-inverting buffer configuration - you could use it to add some gain if needed too. Be very careful of stray leakage paths (flux or fingerprints) on the input connection. Include a series resistor (100k +) directly at the non-inverting input pin for ESD protection.Edit: You could also use the LMC6001 as Paul's link suggests but the LMC662 is cheaper, has similar input leakage and is available in dip pkg.
Hacking a smoke detector and window alarm to use as a geiger counter speaker - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 06:52:33 pm
content: I picked up a window intrusion alarm for $1.00 from dollar tree, and a smoke alarm for $1.99 from GoodWill and stole parts to make a fairly loud speaker on my geiger counter. Now I've always said Pie-zo and I know some people say pee-ay-zo. So I'm just throwing that out there before someone says I'm saying it wrong.
Hacking a surprisingly good Uni-T multimeter. Teardown and serial com upgrade - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: paulossant
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 06, 2020, 10:32:55 am
content: After seeing some multimeter teardown videos from Dave Jones, I was worried about what he shown from the cheap Uni-T multimeters, especially about thei input protection. So... since I use one (Uni-t UT133A), I opened mine to see whats inside, and must confess I was happy to see what I've saw. check the pictures!Ceramic fuses, PTC and varistors...Very nice layout..UL certified!So.. all was good!Next, I decided to see if the blob controller was outputting anything on the Tx Rx pads...and connected the oscilloscope to it and.. it was output something! Nice!Finally connected connected Tx to my logic analyzer and started to try figure it out.After a few minutes, and google search to see any uni-t multimeter serial protocols, figured it was rs232, LSB first 8N1, 2400 Baud.. Then created a .ods file in libreoffice calc and wrote some of the outputs..So all it is needed to use the multimeter as a datalogger is to test the Tx line, plug it into a micro and create a GUI.Which could be easily done with a stm32f103, and create a GUI with QtPy...Will it be worth it?Tell me what you think!I leave attached the .ods file with what i've done so far.

author: uer166
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 02:12:06 am
content: It is not UL certified, it "conforms to a UL standard", but UL have never seen this meter.

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 10:09:36 pm
content: Quote from: uer166 on June 07, 2020, 02:12:06 amETL listing is equivalent to UL listing, and Intertek is reputable company.
Hacking an aerial coupling lead & how does this affect the overall performance?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NW27
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2018, 02:29:41 am
content: Hi,I will start by painting the scenario.WiFi System with an Access Point (AP), coupling lead and a monopole anetenna.So for 2.4GHz, a 1/4 wave is ~30mm ie 150 *0.97 / 2400 / 2 = 30.3mm.AP with SMA ...... 500mm Coupling Lead ....... SMA typical small stuby aerial.On the right end of the coupling lead, there is a panel mounted SMA connector. This is mounted onto the chassis.The problem:The 0V (Shield) of the AP cannot be connected to the chassis.Current SolutionThe current solution that was put in place prior to my arrival, is midway along the 500mm coupling lead, remove 10mm of shield from the cable.AP (SMA)OOOOOOOO---OOOOOOOO(SMA Panel mounted)OOStubby Aerial.OOO=Shielded cable--- = 10mm of Shield manually removed, core intact.The issues I see are:1. No Antenna ground plane reference back to the AP earth.2. What is the effect on the VSWR?3. What is now the effective length of the aerial ie the shield from the AP is cut 250mm into the coupling lead, so relative to the end of the AP shield to the tip of the antenna is now > 250mm + SMA length + dipole length (30mm) = ~ 300mmI would love to have a Vector Impedance Analyzer (VMA) to find out exactly how the current install performs. Obviously it is not very good, hence my posting here.Say the Dipole aerial signal does start at the cut ie 250mm from the AP, what does the next section of the shield look like on the leg of the dipole to the antennaWhat are your thought's on the performance characteristics of the current install and how to improve the situation?Thanks,Neil.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2018, 02:47:52 am
content: Bridge the gap with some surface mount capacitors so it appears as a short at RF but open at DC. Or what might work well enough is to wrap the gap in foil tape with plenty of overlap on both sides.
Hacking  an output switch onto an ABRA AB-5300 Bench Power Supply.  HELP!! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: SAR131
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 01, 2022, 09:04:50 pm
content: I recently picked up electronics as a hobby. I took Physics in high school many years ago and am enjoying this hobby. I purchased a new ABRA AB-5300 Bench Power Supply from a company in Montreal Canada. It has 2 variable power outputs 30v 10a and a 5v fixed 3a power outlet. At the time I did not realize the importance of an output switch to the leads. Can I hack this device with output switches to the variable power outlets? If so any recommendation on the particular switch preferably lighted when on.Appreciate any helpful advice! Thanks, SAR131
Hacking Asus Zenflash - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NickS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 10:36:06 pm
content: I noticed on Aliexpress that you could buy Asus Zenflash little modules for $7 US a pop which I figured could be cool to buy and figure out how to re-use in DIY projects.They are USB triggered and are only supported on a handful of Asus phones and I don't believe any new phones support it hence why you can buy them so cheaply.Upon opening it it does look like it could be hackable.Unfortunately all the high voltage circuitry seems to be driven directly from the microcontroller so those signals would need to be identified and replicated by an Arduino or equivalent.I don't have a supported phone so USB protocol analysis is probably out of the question as is measuring the signals (it doesn't do anything when plugged in).But the main functions seem clear.Red and Black wires go to either side of the flash tube.White is the trigger coil (slightly closer to Black side).There looks to be only one small transistor and one mosfet that needs controlling although I'm not sure about the exact arrangement.Looks like it has a few features that were never used like possibly a IR receiver on the side, and positions for two LEDs that aren't populated.Does anyone have any ideas about what the best way to control it would be?I haven't gotten very far on an initial inspection, a few things are puzzling me like what TC1 is.

author: llkiwi2006
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2018, 11:34:47 pm
content: You can connect it up to a computer and see what interfaces it presents (if you have linux, lsusb is your friend). Chances are it is a simple serial or hid interface, and you can try just sending some stuff to it and see if it does anything.
hacking atx power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: justin66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2016, 07:29:46 pm
content: hey guys i would like to figure out a way to hack the atx power supply with a controller sg6105dz. i have tried a few logical ways to hack it but i didnt succeed yeti have tried installing voltage dividers on to the pin that directly sense it does not change the output voltage. so any suggestions on how do i hack it?i cant really understand how this chip works unfortunatelydatasheethttp://www.sg.com.tw/semigp/data/6105/6105-datasheet.pdf

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2016, 07:51:29 pm
content: Get an ATX PSU with a SMPSU controller at the primary side. It seems that you can't modify the sg6105dz based circuit.

author: station240
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 19, 2016, 08:15:24 pm
content: Ugh, it has a voltage sense input for each rail, so you'd need to trick those inputs as well.You'd be better off with a PSU with a more conventional PWM controller, for instance a TL494.Those ICs are dirt cheap and commonly available if you wanted to retrofit the PSU you have to use that instead.

author: justin66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2016, 08:52:19 pm
content: so i need to install 3 voltage deviders on those sense lines labeled v33 v5 v12is it possible to add an other chip or something like that? i have ka7500b chip witch is also from switching psu. is it possible to change it out ? for my project i need 14v output. i just really need this done with this psu. thanks in advance
Hacking atx power supy with sg6105dz - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: justin66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2016, 08:41:21 pm
content: Hey guys i cant figure out how do i hack my power supply to output more voltage. Can anybody please help me with this?Please dont tell me about safety precautions trust me i know all the dangers capacitors fire hasard etc and i still need help. ThanksNow i think i need to disable overvoltage and overcurrent protections first and than mess with pwm. I would like to learn new things going along.Here is some images

author: justin66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2016, 09:36:11 pm
content: please

author: johansen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2016, 10:26:23 pm
content: where the chip directly senses the output voltage, install voltage dividers.how much more voltage do you need?datasheet:http://www.sg.com.tw/semigp/data/6105/6105-datasheet.pdf

author: justin66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2016, 08:54:30 am
content: I need at least 14v 15v would be ideal

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2016, 09:46:14 am
content: You need to start checking capacitor voltage ratings, I wouldn't be surprised to see some 16V rated ones. Also on the other rails that will rise at the same time.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2016, 02:21:55 pm
content: Just trace out the feedback voltage divider. Look at what all the output rails connect to in the PCB. When you find one that goes in to a tiny resistor that seams to go towards the control chip and has a resistor to ground somewhere that is the feedback. Sometimes there might be a wire going to the ATX motherboard plug to sense the voltage there.Then you just have to change the values of the resistor in there to change the voltage. Going too high with the voltage can make the PSU switch off as a safety feature, so if that happens then you also need to find the divider for that and disable it.

author: justin66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2016, 07:28:56 pm
content: Quote from: johansen on March 12, 2016, 10:26:23 pmi noticed that its not direct it had a high value resistor and it was dropping the voltage by 0.4v and installing resistor divider didnt change output voltage unfortunatelyps thanks for the datasheet. but maybe im not skilled enough to find an other solution?

author: justin66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2016, 07:35:43 pm
content: Quote from: Berni on March 14, 2016, 02:21:55 pmthanks for the suggestion i found it and its brown wire but still cant seem to do this it looks like it has a reference for 5v and 3v rail but no 12v rail is it dependent on 5v rail? i would guess its not but at the same time how does it sense the voltage than. maybe it sense the voltage before the big ferite coil with a multiple whines?im lost please help me
Hacking BLE and RF readout into a uCurrent - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: lgbeno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 07:58:13 am
content: I did a post on hackaday.io about it. Was a fun project and I thought that I would share.https://hackaday.io/project/4648-analogio/log/23778-hacking-ble-rf-into-an-eevblog-ucurrent-goldhttp://youtu.be/A4oE_IPeKyUAlso if you like the idea I'm trying to advance to the next round of the Hackaday Prize, Skulls and followers are always appreciated.The board used in the hack are also for sale. $15 per unit, $20 if you want the Temp & Humidity Sensor soldered on and $5 shipping. PM if interested.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hacking computer interface to random electronics - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: tribat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2010, 04:47:54 am
content: So you have a PIR motion sensor lamp (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16803) that you want to hack with a computer interface. Meaning the computer can read the state of the lamp, if its on (sensing motion) or off (no motion).Another thing I would like to hack with computer interface is one of those RF Relays that come with a 2 button remote that can open and close the relay. How would you interface those two buttons from the remote to a computer?There are probably a million ways to do those things but I'm looking for a simple and cheap way of doing it.

author: tyblu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2010, 05:20:58 am
content: Easiest and simplest would be to wire it to a key on your keyboard through a level-shifter. Looking for something a bit more professional, like RS232, ISA, USB, PCI(e)? You may be able to use RS232 without an intermediary, but the others require packetization. Actually, not really sure about ISA.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2010, 09:04:47 am
content: Easist way i reckon would be the printer port (assuming you have one)There is plenty of digital I/O there, your application just needs to read the address (NOTE, your application will have to tell windows xp/vista/7 to allow your application direct I/O access).also, its a good idea to optoisolate the printer port I/O, otherwise you may blowup the port.

author: Ferroto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2010, 11:28:00 pm
content: The most common "first" project with a parellel port is to make a 7-segment display. With the parallel port you have 8 wires for the 8 bits. You can simply wire those 8 wires up to a seven-segment display. Each bar in the display is an LED, that's 7 led's plus the decimal point which is the 8'th digit. The rest is software which I can't help out with unfortunately

author: williefleete
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2010, 03:12:56 am
content: yes parallel ports are good, you got 8 outputs, and if you can read the status lines, quite a few inputs as welli have delved in this area (at least the parallel output side of things) i might have some code lying around for VB and some dll's that can control IO ports, stick something like a ULN2003 or similar (with 8 outputs) and use some opto-isolators if its gonna be driving more than logic level or different potentials etc, for LEDs and transistors you can drive them with no more than a current limit resistor in series
Hacking Fujitsu F²MC-16LX 16-BIT MICROCONTROLLER - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: tru3533
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2020, 06:47:07 pm
content: Hallo expertsI'm working on a project where I have one working pcb and one defective pcb from a hydraulic controllerMCU is MB90F342A(S)/CA(S), 256KB Flash Memory, dual CAN, 4x UART-LIN, 16/24 ch. ADCWhat I would like to do is to copy the firmware/bootloader from the working MCU over to the not working MCUNormally the firmware update is done via CAN Bus.I think the not working MCU got bricked during update of firmware over the CAN BusThe pcb have a header where I have found all the pinsLooking at the manual 74-41715.pdf it seems to be possible to debug the MCU via UART0By setting the mode pinsPin MD2 MD1 MD0Level HIGH HIGH LOWAndPin P01 P00Level LOW LOW AsynchronousLevel HIGH LOW SynchronousChecking the working pcb with my oscilloscope on TX/RX on UART0I get nothing when mode pins is not setWhen I set the mode pins, I get a blinking pulse on TXManual say'sAll bootloaders use the UART of the microcontroller for communication and download. Only the transmit and receive line of the corresponding UART interface are used. After Power-on the user has 1sec to send the character <ESC> via a terminal to the microcontroller. Therefore e.g. the SKWizard terminal emulation program can be used. If no <ESC> character is sent, the application is called after a timeout of approximately 1-second.Using Putty as terminal, I see nothing at the terminal when booting with mode pins set. and pressing <ESC>Any idea what to do next?Is it possible that the manufacturer have moved the functionality of the bootloader somewhere else as it updates over CAN?Any help highly appreciated!

author: CJay
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2020, 10:14:28 pm
content: Read this datasheet?https://www.fujitsu.com/downloads/MICRO/fma/pdfmcu/pcw16e_V2_20.pdf

author: tru3533
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2020, 07:12:54 am
content: Thank you CJay, this was new for me.I checked everything in the manual that it was acording to what I have done so far.Sorry to say still not working.

author: lluchiari
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2022, 01:12:02 pm
content: @tru3533 did you find an answer? I have the exact same problem with another micro. I can't even find SOFTUNE to download.
Hacking Hantek6074BE - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: hackscope
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 21, 2018, 05:52:49 am
content: I have a hantek6074BE oscilloscope. It works on windows. But I like it work on my Android tablet . Unfortunately the factory don't provide Android APP for this device. After some research, I decide to make one by myself. This is my source code.Githublink:https://github.com/hackhantek/hantek6004DownloadDownload the latest release fromrelease page2018-12-25:Add new feature:- File menu- Horizontal scroll bar- Horizontal trigger marker- Pull the app after plugging in the USB- Keep app status when exiting- Time base drop-down box- REF- MATH2018-8-24:Add new feature:- Tap channel waveform to select channel- Adjust volts/div by pinch gesture2018-8-27Add new feature:- Adjust timebase by pinch gesture2018-9-5Added new feature:- Trigger sweep settings in trigger quick settings.2018-9-21Added new feature:- Auto measure.2018-9-26Added new feature:- Factory Setup- Self calibration2018-11-8Added new feature:- Horizontal trigger- Cursor measure- About menu

author: JS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2018, 05:58:53 am
content: Nicely done!JS

author: wearethenorth
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 30, 2018, 02:13:05 am
content: Looks very nice, I'll give it a try.

author: gf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2018, 03:21:09 pm
content: Hi hackscope,I'm wondering, where ht6000api.aar is coming from?(seems not to be included in the source code on GitHub)Thanks,gf

author: hackscope
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 04, 2018, 05:36:03 am
content: @gf, I got it from a friend. I don't have source code.

author: Jiggerypook
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2018, 08:08:08 am
content: I have the Hantek 6052BE. Will this work for my scope being that its in the 6000 series? If so what are the steps involved in installing the app on a Samsung T330mu?

author: bianchifan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2019, 07:13:55 pm
content: THX for sharing!
Hacking Huawei SCP fast charge protocol - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2022, 12:28:33 am
content: Searched for a while, there's nothing about it, so I made a USB adapter and sniffed the signals...Uses only D+ usb line. D- is always tied to ground.Seems to be async, bidirectional one wire and two voltage levels, perhabs for each side.Exported a huge capture to csv (About 1.7M samples), cleaned it up quite a bit for easier viewing.I'm usingFlow CSV Viewer, works really good, feel free to suggest any other csv waveform viewers.Hantek CSV export is quite bad, time steps don't have enough precision, all were like "4.000000e-06", so I simply removed them to save space.Data was sampled at 5MSps, the smallest clock pulses are 20us (50KHz).Most packets follow the same format as the attached picture.Looks pretty weird to me, I was just curious if I could use it for custom stuff, as it can handle 5...10V and 4A.A gif I made with some captures (Don't panic, only 89KB):
Hacking Ikea HALVKLART cabinet light - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: tchicago
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 05:17:56 am
content: Hi, All,I came across the nice new little cabinet lights in IKEA, called HALVKLART.They are sold in pairs, and they have an on/off switch inside the light itself. Pressing the light toggles it on and off.Unfortunately, it is on by default. I.e. if you plug it in into USB power adapter, it lights up, and can then be toggled off and on.That did not work for my purpose, as any power glitch or outage will turn all those lights on. So I did a little bit of a reverse engineering and hacked to make it off by default.Before putting it back together, I took some pictures to share, in case if someone needs to do the same.You basically have to cut the trace on top side of the PCB and throw a bodge wire on the bottom side.Attached are: schematic diagram - the flip-flop part that does the toggling, both sides of the board with the cut and bodge highlighted. And the product itself for a reference.

author: zammtronic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 08, 2022, 03:36:30 pm
content: This is an awesome bodge - thank you!

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2022, 03:43:31 pm
content: IKEA is best hacked with an axe

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2022, 05:51:31 am
content: Only Linux software developers can beat IKEA with weird product names

author: Nominal Animal
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2022, 07:04:12 am
content: Quote from: Bud on April 09, 2022, 05:51:31 amSwedish is/was the native language of both Linus Torvalds and Ingvar Kamprad, so there you have the common root: the Swedish language.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2022, 12:37:31 pm
content: That is half clear!

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2022, 05:21:31 pm
content: Quote from: Bud on April 09, 2022, 05:51:31 amAnd the NSA, don't forget them. They excel at making up these funny, incomprehensible names. Don't you feel safer because of it?

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2022, 05:23:51 pm
content: Quote from: Nominal Animal on April 09, 2022, 07:04:12 amHere in the US the Pennsylvania Dutch sect, who were originally German, I think, often speak a language that sounds a great deal like Swedish.

author: mansaxel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2022, 05:32:54 pm
content: Sometimes the Ikea names are funny, sometimes they're on point. There's a computer table, for placing in corners, IIRC, that's named JERKER. The Zigbee stuff is TRÅDFRI, which is literally "wireless". And so on.

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2022, 12:52:27 pm
content: I'm pretty sure that Jerker has been discontinued.. It was a decent ergonomic adjustable computer desk for around $100.
Hacking the Bosch mini-split heat pump - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: JetForMe
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2023, 10:49:38 am
content: I know some out there have hacked the Mitsubishi mini-split to attach a Raspberry Pi for direct bi-directional control, but has anyone done that for the Bosch? I’ve started to, but haven’t gotten very far:https://jetforme.org/2023/02/hacking-the-bosch-mini-split/Also, I suspect this unit is made by someone else, or by Bosch for other brands. Does anyone know?
Hacking/mod'ing an ATX P/S - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: stephr1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 19, 2012, 06:24:57 pm
content: Hi all,I am starting to plan a uP regulated power supply project that uses a modified ATX supply as the main voltage source and uP circuit for secondary regulation.I am wondering if anyone here knows how the secondary windings of the primary-to-secondary xformer of ATX supplies is wound (I haven't yet unraveled one, but I suspect that day maybe comingSpecifically, is the same size wire (large enough to handle +3.3, +5, +12, etc. currents) used on all the secondary windings with taps brought out for the different voltages? Or, do the higher current windings (+3.3, +5 and +12) use the larger wire and a smaller wire is used for outputs like -12 and -5?From a mfg cost (materials and labor/complexity of assembly) it may seem to make more sense to use a single wire for simplicity of winding and economies of scale. However, one never knows....Any "authoritative" help will be appreciated.Thanks in advance.....Steph

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2012, 07:48:19 pm
content: I have just partially disassembled an ATX supply. I saw some different thicknesses of wire on the main transformer.But in general it appears that the power supply is built exactly to do what the specifications say it can do. By observation the selection, size and arrangement of parts is precisely tuned to the purpose. For instance the -5 V and -12 V lines were just done with simple 7905 and 7912 regulators. Nothing fancy.
Anyone used Analog Devices ADV7181C or similar video chips? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jmdejoanelli
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 09:36:14 pm
content: Hi all,If anyone out there has used the Analog Devices ADV7181C or similar, can you shout out? I desperately need some help with configuration.The part is a VGA graphics ADC and video signal converter.I'm happy to give some detail, but I'll wait til I get into the office to do that. But in the meantime it would be nice to know if anyone has experience with this family of parts. Analog has been far less than helpful unfortunately.Regards,Josef

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2016, 08:38:42 am
content: It appears no one here has.I'm still interested in your project though. Please tell us more.
HADBEST HB070 reuse - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: baitor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 11, 2018, 06:23:20 pm
content: Pretty sure I pulled this thing out of an old touch screen printer. One of those wankey IOT ones from ten years ago.Full marking in the top right corner of the back reads: HB070-AB182-06HI'm trying to reuse the thing as a small PDF reader.It's got a 4 pin flat flex for the touch screen and a 25 or 26 pin flat flex for driving.Where the hell am I to find the pin out for this thing??Is there a common pin out shared between older LCD panels like this or some driver someone can recommend that will work for it? I tried looking it up on beyondinfinite DOT com/library DOT html but there are too many entries to go through and none are marked with the same part number.
Hairpin dip switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2019, 10:09:42 pm
content: Used to be able to get a dip switch which consisted of two shaped pieces of wire per switch.One part, the fixed part was in a shape of a hook so that the movable part could be forced downwards beneath the hook and would be retained closed contacting the hook.The spring tension was sufficiently high to create a gas tight contact between the two parts of the switch according to the data sheet.In order to engage or disengage the procedure was a bit more involved than simply toggling or sliding the slider.It would fit in conventional 0.3" pitch array.A hint of where it might be found would be appreciated.

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2019, 10:43:40 pm
content: A photo of the said switch

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 12:56:46 am
content: I remember them, but haven't seen one in 20 years.Any reason you're not interested in the more recent DIP switch offerings?

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 01:37:03 am
content: I also remember them. Maybe the O.P. wants them because they are both washable in production and cleanable in service? OTOH, if as I suspect, the contacts are plated spring steel, rust may be an issue in humid environments.

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 01:39:14 am
content: I also recall seeing them occasionally 'soldered' - once the initial configuration / resets had been completed.

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 01:46:15 am
content: I seem to think they were a Siemens product.It takes a certain effort to engage and disengage a contact forcing the brain to engage along the way.The corrosion is a possibility but the image is of one such item assembled way back in early eighties ( say 83 ) no corrosion so far.
Hakko connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Tioleco
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2012, 01:36:24 am
content: What is the name of the female connector of the Hakko 936 soldering station?

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2012, 03:52:27 am
content: It looks like a 240degree DIN connector.Or more accurately an offshoot of one. The original DIN connectors didn't have the threading afaik.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2012, 09:44:15 am
content: They make threaded DIN connectors:http://www.binder-usa.com/locking-style/list/category/m16-connectors/http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/491322850/m16_5_pin_electrical_connector.html

author: Tioleco
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2012, 07:28:05 pm
content: Where I can buy?
Hakko FM-206 station switcher - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Wormwood
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 16, 2019, 07:07:37 am
content: Everyone,First I want everyone to know, there have been so many situations where EEVblog has saved my bacon, I'd be embarassed to say. So thank you for openly sharing your knowledge.A few years ago, I sold my Weller & put money down on the cheapest configuration of A FM-206 I could find. Then every six months or so I go ahead & buy an additional station. Currently I have six stations & of course it's limited to 3 at a time. I was wondering if anyone has made or sourced the compnents for a "station switcher" a controller that would let you choose which stations you want connected before you power up the 206? Instead of dealing with the wire spagetti everytime you need to change something. Since hot air & vacuum only have 1 for each there's no need for a pneumatics b/c it only operates the pumps if the needed station is connected, so that could stay static just extended maybe. The electrical would require switching the various wires for each plug. The idea is not hot-swappable, you'd have to shutdown to change stations but a simple button to connect with feedback and a control function to change the 4 or 5 contacts is what I'm thinking.Anyway, just putting it out there... Thanks for any input.Wormwood
Hakko FX-888 on sale - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Pat Pending
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2012, 08:08:12 pm
content: FYINormally $89, but on sale until Thursday of next week at Fry's for $70.

author: sparkypom
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2012, 08:18:46 pm
content: Quote from: Calico on February 10, 2012, 08:08:12 pmFry's what? What country? Do I need to rush to the airport or what? The damn things cost an arm and a leg in ripoff England !

author: tinhead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2012, 08:44:09 pm
content: Fry's .. look herehttp://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&query_string=fx888&cat=0

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2012, 09:30:50 pm
content: Quote from: sparkypom on February 10, 2012, 08:18:46 pmYeah, unfortunately Fry's Electronics in the USA. You should definitely pay a visit if you are ever stateside. Leave room in your suitcase and take home some goodies.

author: MikeK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2012, 03:09:34 am
content: Why do they not carry any tips for it? Is it a special or closeout model?

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2012, 03:25:20 am
content: Quote from: MikeK on February 12, 2012, 03:09:34 amFry's carry lots of tips for the FX-888. I was there just this afternoon and there was a whole range of different tips available.

author: MikeK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2012, 03:50:41 am
content: I searched their website and found none. I'm not that interested in driving 2500 miles.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2012, 04:01:23 am
content: I don't know why they don't list any T18 tips on their web site. They do have them in store. But if you are looking for on-line ordering, there must be many other places to order from.

author: dcel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2012, 06:42:05 am
content: Thanks for the tip guys, just ordered one. It will go nicely beside my Edsyn Dual Loner, when I finally get it home from my other job.Chris

author: mobbarley
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2012, 07:09:22 am
content: That is an amazing price compared to what they are here!
Hakko FX-951 Mod - FumeBuddy - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: joeyjoejoe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2020, 01:38:21 pm
content: It was suggested on another thread to make a new one on this specific subject.https://github.com/gcormier/fumebuddyIt was a fun project and I had quite a few board runs to test a few things.I think the only thing missing that I was hoping to get was somehow making it work with only 1 mechanical switch instead of two, but I couldn't wrap my brain around making that work. I didn't want to open up the hakko and start proping around to see how it was measuring the change in resistance either. Having the thing work "dumb" was very important, as if I just need to touch up a few pads I'll use the classic breath-hold methodBut for longer assembly runs, it's nice to not have the noise of my fan all the time. I've used it with both a Hakko FA-430, but also more recently and importantly a 4" duct fan and some flexible ducts blowing out the window. Especially in the winter, pouring heated hot air from my house to outside is not something I enjoyOne last thing on my todo list is to make the 3D printed housing adjustable somehow for the spring tension. I tried to copy the exact same position as the stock unit, but I've noticed if I have my iron/base near the edge of the desk with the wire hanging off, it's a lot more "pull" downwards then if I have it further back and all of the wire is resting on the desk. But generally speaking it works great for my needs! A fun project with reverse engineering, PCB, and mechanical (CAD) for the housing.
HAL1564SU from TDK-Micronas circuit for use with arduino - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: SMC_T
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 24, 2023, 08:11:58 pm
content: Hello all, I'm trying to make a breakout board for this HALL sensor for use with an arduino, can I get another set of eyes on the circuit example in the datasheet, and a little understanding of how to get my arduino to see the sensors output.https://product.tdk.com/system/files/dam/doc/product/sensor/switch/hall-switch/data_sheet/hal_156y_hall-effect_switches_with_current_interface_2-wire_in_sot23_package.pdf
Half Bridge Converter output filter: Common VS Separate Inductor per Rail - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sbdada
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2019, 02:11:18 pm
content: Hello,Let's say I've a half bridge converter with some symmetrical split output, for example: +-12V, +-24V and +-35V with a common ground. In this case, which type of inductor should be used:6 output here, so 6 separate inductor on 6 separate core for each of the output?Or, all 6 inductor coil on a single core?Or, all positive rails on one core, and negative rails on another core?Which one has the advantage?To Yansi, if you see this post: After making a new PCB, that transformer driven half bridge working very well. But I did some changes on output. I thought If I make it for +-35V and if it really works, then I can replace that bulky transformer of my amplifier, so I changed that from 12V to +-35V. Now it also has a +-12v rial for preamp. I've also added the overload protection by sensing the primary current with an small troied, that also works fine.Now I'm a bit confused with that inductor and also the polarity of their winding.