Maxwell multimeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2023, 12:32:53 pm
content: I have an old Maxwell meter, model MX 25-304. The switch contacts seemed to be a bit dicky, so I thought a little cleaning would help. The switch is a circular plastic disc with a number of contacts on each side that run over tracks on a top and bottom pcb. Unfortunately the little leaf spring contacts are not fixed to the plastic disc and most fell off! The position of the contacts is crucial to the operation, and there must be thousands of incorrect positions.I am wondering if anyone has such a meter and can show the correct positions for the 'bottom'. I have attached a photo of the top-side switch, which is correct. I need the pattern for the bottom.Keeping my fingers crossed.....

author: theHWcave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2023, 02:26:48 pm
content: Can you not figure out the contact slot position from either the traces (marks) left on the bottom PCB or maybe slots in the knob itself have marks (under a magnifier) indicating if a spring was inserted?

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2023, 03:45:03 pm
content: Hi,Thanks for taking the time for replying. But I've studied the problem in the hope I may find a solution, but I'm no Sherlock. The main pcb seems to be the one that switches the values from the inputs, i.e. volts, amps etc. The top set of switches seem only to produce the logo for the unit on the LCD. There are 12 circular tracks and 6 leaf contacts. So it may have been all 6 are on one 'side' of the plastic disc, but that doesn't work. The tracks are arranged into 'sectors', with seemingly random positioning of the gaps - which dictates how inputs are selected to the circuitry.So all the tracks show witness wear, and the fine shim contacts leave no mark on the disc; so I'm stuffed.I am left with the conclusion that only the correct positioning will work.I know it's a long shot to find this combination, but otherwise the meter is junk!

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 10, 2023, 04:20:26 pm
content: If it's the same on opposite disc then you only have 5 positions on each side of the disc and same position on opposite side should remain not occupied except one. I suggest initially put all of the spring contacts to one side, do not put 6th contact first. Then change position of each spring contact to the opposite side by one at a time and see how it affects functionality. If something starts working properly or just shows some signs of being better, leave it there. Make only safe measurements, like resistance, capacitance or low voltage through some current limiting resistor. Once all of them are placed for best operation, find a place for the last contact.

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2023, 05:18:30 pm
content: Upload some photos of at least the two sets of circular tracks, preferably all four sides of PCB and the front of the multimeter with function positions.There are some "Sherlocks" here, I'm sure it's easier than you think.

author: theHWcave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2023, 05:23:06 pm
content: electrotanya has the schematic for this meter. With that it might be possible to establish which traces of the PCB should be connected at which switch position. Its a cool meter, does inductance as well as capacitance which is unusual.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 10, 2023, 05:33:56 pm
content: If another disc is the same as on the photo and uses 6 spring contacts, total possible variants should be 37 if I calculated correctly, not thousands.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2023, 06:23:39 pm
content: The schematic indicates there should be 18 "circles", not 12 and you should have 9 contact springs to insert. 8 of them are wide enough to bridge 2 circles and the other one is wide enough to bridge 3 circles. Two of the circles have no gaps. The wider contact bridges the full circle and the neighbour circle that has a break between every position of the rotary knob. The middle of that contact sits on the full circle.

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2023, 09:31:27 pm
content: I recently stumbled across Elektrotanya a while ago, and I've seen the schematic. I have the impression there are a number of MX-25 304 meters, with this same model number, but with some variant addition. I am unable to reconcile this schematic with my model. I think the "tracks" shown is misleading as there are only 12 on this pcb. Also, there are 12 springs, 5 for top side and 7 for bottom. (There are 10 tracks on top in smaller diameter circles.)

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2023, 02:21:41 pm
content: Thanks for your input, but I'm intrigued by your figure of 37 combinations. The switch has space for 12 positions for the spring leaves and 7 springs. By using nCr formula I get 792 permutations. Admittedly not thousands but too many for me to try them all!Regards,Mike.

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2023, 04:27:43 pm
content: Hi,I've added the two pcb's showing the tracks. and the cover.Perhaps some super-sleuth might have an idea; I'm at an impasse......

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2023, 06:08:18 pm
content: More questions:1. Clearly the photo of the bottom board rings and the front cover are in alignment. Meaning that clockwise on the photos is also physically clockwise for both. Is the same true for the photo of the top board or do we need to mirror it left to right?2. What is the alignment between the pointer on the selector knob and the springs? When the knob is pointing "north" are the contacts on a north-south line?If the answer to that last question is yes, I'd be reasonably confident that the 5 small arcs on the bottom board outer ring from 6 o'clock towards 8 o'clock are the 5 capacitance ranges. So one of the springs should be in the appropriate place to bridge those to a neighbouring ring when the knob points to those positions. There is no ring further out so it must be the next one inwards.1 down, 5 to go.They go one or the other side of the centre. 32 possibilities.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2023, 07:07:38 pm
content: Continuing from my last post, looking at the next 2 rings inwards there is a gap for the two positions before (clockwise) 12 o'clock. It does not seem probable to have that gap in the middle of the resistance ranges. But 180 degrees opposite are the temperature and 20 Amp positions. Those two ranges are different from each other and their neighbours so I think the contacts should be on the other side of the centre from those for the outer pair.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2023, 08:19:30 pm
content: Moving in to the next pair, that is rings 5 and 6 counting from the outer one. I see gaps which would line up with the positions for hFE, temperature and continuity. I would place the contacts to be in the half that makes it be in those 3 gaps when the selector knob is pointing to those 3 functions.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2023, 08:25:29 pm
content: Moving in again to rings 7 and 8 counting from the outer one, I see a gap that would correspond either to the 20 Henry or the 10 MHz position. As there are more than one inductance range but only one frequency measuring range, I would assume that the contacts should be over that gap when the knob pointer is at 10 MHz.

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2023, 11:09:16 am
content: Many thanks for you taking time to help solve the riddle! I've spent some time looking at it without coming to any conclusions.I have the position of the leaf spring contacts for the smaller pcb, it's exactly the same as the one shown in the first post above. You are correct that this pcb would be turned left/right.The plastic wafer that holds the contacts has a square hole for the knob spigot. This means that there are 4 ways the wafer may be fitted. I reckon this might be a simple fix by finding the position where the values around the cover match the LCD display. Although this might not be a total solution if the small pcb is also involved in switching inputs.I shall now study your deliberations very closely and see if I can make some progress. Once again, I take my hat off to you for your perseverence.Best regards,Mike

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2023, 01:33:33 pm
content: I am 99% convinced that the selector knob and the contacts holder disc should be aligned such that when the pointer is at 2M the contacts are on the line between 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock on the bottom PCB. If you look at the arcs of its 2nd ring (counting from the outside) they are a very good match for the class of measurement. Volts, current, capacitance, inductance, diode/continuity, resistance,As the holder disc is symmetrical there are two possible orientations (180 degrees apart). But the contacts for the top board are not symmetrically placed so you need to determine using it which of the two possibilities is correct. It looks to me that for the top board switching, the two inner contacts should be on the two inner arcs when the knob is pointing to the resistance ranges. Once confirmed I suggest marking the disc near the knob pointer so you do not lose track as you proceed.Then you can place the outer 4 contact pieces for the bottom on the sides as I surmised earlier. That leaves the inner two. 4 possibilities to test by trial and error.

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2023, 08:28:04 pm
content: I have been looking at the bits following your descriptions. However, something I had not noticed before; I have 12 leaf contacts, 5 should populate the top side of the wafer - which is correct. The remaining 7 should fill the other side, but there is only 6 spaces, without any position "duplicating" an already covered two tracks. If that is actually correct then I'm stuck for any reason how it would work and how?Any ideas for further down the rabbit-hole?Mike.

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 05:02:51 am
content: The schematic could match more than it seems. (Without going s far as saying it matches completely.)One could easily fit 12 contacts on that schematic on the 2nd and 8th columns there seem to be 3 runs to link. That could either be done with wider contacts or by having a 1/2 position overlap on the opposite side of the wheel, which is physically possible here.What the schematic does not account for is routing so switch runs that look continuous on schematic may have been segmented for layout considerations although electrically identical to schematic.What is unclear to me in 2nd colmun of contacts on schematic is the lower portion that's not quite aligned, did they not have room to draw that separately but it should be considered separate from the "3 runs" portion above?If so, it fits 12 contacts.From left to right...1st column: 12nd: 3 (upper portion 2 opposite with 1/2 overlap? 1 for lower portion considered as separate runs)3rd: 14th: 15th: 16th: 17th: 18th: 2 (opposite with 1/2 overlap?)9th: 1

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 11:41:07 am
content: 1. The schematic appears to be for a completely different multimeter. Even though the same model number the range switch layout is completely different. See th4e drawing on page 5 ofhttps://www.maxwell-digital.com/products/25304/downloads/25304_user%20manual_en_hu_ro_sk.pdf.I think Maxwell do not make these meters. They are just OEMed form other manufacturers and the old one that the OP has and the modern one are different designs from different manufacturers.2. I have come to the conclusion that there are two contact bridges on the two inner rings. As this a manually ranging meter, not autoranging, I have been wondering where that switching is. I think the single lands of half the inner ring do that. But that would only work for half of the positions. That's why I think there is another contact bridge 180 degrees opposite it.3. That leaves just the last bridge to position. I think it goes where I've shown in the attached photo. The yellow patches are where I think all 7 contact bridges should be when the selector knob is pointing to 2M.

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 08:10:31 pm
content: I am, again, amazed by your brilliance! I have put your layout into effect and had some good reults; close, but no cigar, yet!At the moment, after getting the spring contacts on the top side in the correct order - you'll appreciate the top and bottom contacts must be 'in phase'. So now the LCD shows correct unit logos, but some with 'anomolies', like a minus sign, battery sign and Hz and H together. Also, the display fails to show any correct input values. For example, resistance ranges show 0.0 or OL, voltages variable, small values - 0.01 or 0.33 etc etc.I am beginning to think there must be some fault(s) in the circuitry, although it was fine before I decided to clean the contacts.And now, to add insult to injury, my Riden RD6006 has gone on the blink; display shows output voltage as zero and no amount of twiddling the knob has any effect! There's quite a lot on this unit in the forums, but can't find a schematic.Regards,M.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2023, 11:00:34 pm
content: OK, let's back up a bit. I was quite confident with my first deductions to place the 4 contacts for rings 1 to 8. Obviously there must be a contact on ring 12, the one nearest the centre. And that can only be a bridge between 11 and 12. Only two positions for that bridge and to me the the top one looks more likely. So remove the two with red blobs and leave the yellow ones in the attached. Test that. Of course some things will not work but it will be encouraging if there are no "wrongs". Wrongs such as two or more incompatible icons enabled. Do the decimal points occur in the expected positions on at least some selector positions? If not or missing altogether on some selector positions please give full details.

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2023, 05:14:11 pm
content: I'm not sure your present conclusion is incorrect. All along I have made an assumption that the two sets of tracks on the two separate pcbs work in isolation - that is provided the arrangement of spring contacts are correct all is well? But I have a suspicion that they have some interaction and thus the "incorrect" arrangement will not work properly. I shall try changing the orientation of the bottom contacts 'as is' and see how that affects things and if not correct try your latest figure.Watch this space!Best regards,M.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2023, 07:03:47 pm
content: Yes the upper and lower contact assemblies work in unison. It is ESSENTIAL that the two holder discs are in the one and only one correct angular orientation with respect to each other. The square shaft would mean there are only four possibilities.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2023, 01:15:45 pm
content: I have worked out the orientation of the top contacts. See the attached where your photo has been mirrored (left-right) and rotated 90 degrees anticlockwise and then some switch positions marked. You can see that the arcs in circle 5 (counting from the outside) fit perfectly with the ranges, For example all the k resistance ranges make the same connection. All the M resistance ranges make the same connection. All the V ranges make the same connection, but the mV range has its own one. All the mA current ranges make the same connection but the A (20A) has its own. Similarly for the nF and uF ranges of capacitance. And for the mH and H ranges of inductance.Looking at your photo in the very first post, when the knob pointer is in the 2M position the contacts for the top board should be in a horizontal (or very near) row with the 2 contact bridges on the left and the 3 on the right.(When the pointer is at 2M the contacts for the bottom board should be in the vertical column as worked out earlier.)

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2023, 01:28:51 pm
content: I think the bottom contacts should be inserted like this. '1' means contact in slot. '0' means empty slot. Top to bottom when pointer at 2M110011011011centre011011001100

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2023, 05:54:27 pm
content: Many thanks, again, for taking the time and effort on my problem. I was very hopeful that your ideas would be the solution, but this still eludes me. I've tried the two last ideas, but no breakthrough. I cannot expect anyone to spend valuable time any further, but I shall continue occasionally giving it a poke.For what it's worth I present a few observations that might give a clue to the underlying problem, these for the suggested arrangements of contacts:-1. None of the functions indicated actually work! e.g. all the voltage ranges give OL rather than 0.0.2. The buzzer sounds at the buzz/diode position, but also at 20k, 200mH, 20mH, 2mH and 200uF.3. The kHz position also gives 20H on the display.I don't think there is a fault with the electronics of the meter, it was working fine apart from intermittent switch contacts, but it is a possibility. A shame the controller chip is a "black blob".Any more ideas welcome......

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2023, 07:00:56 pm
content: You will have to wait until I recover from this head cold that is preventing my brain from operating at full potential.

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2023, 05:10:00 pm
content: Sorry to hear about your affliction! Hope you get well soon.Thanks for all your help, but at the moment I have had a bit of a disaster!!One of the spring contacts has pinged off into the ninth dimension, despite being very careful in handling them.I see that many meters use very similar switches and contacts, but so far I've failed to find any source of such items.So no rush now......M.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2023, 05:20:42 pm
content: Turns out I have Covid19 and it isn't throwing in the towel yet. Post again if you do find the original contact. If you do not find it the meter is a goner.

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2023, 08:06:54 pm
content: Oh, that's a real bummer!! Here's hoping you make a speedy recovery without any lingering symptoms.I've made a little contact from a thin Be/Cu blade from a relay. Not ideal, but will siffice until I get a proper one. (I think there are some cheap Chinese meters that use the same ones - but take forever to deliver.)I've had a look at some images on Elektrotanya which looked suspiciously the correct layout, but did not work. Then closer look showed the pcb's given were different from mine! The top set were correct, but I have already seen that elsewhere.So at the moment I'm fresh out of ideas.....Regards, and thanks for your help.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2023, 10:56:37 am
content: Please confirm that my interpretation of your photo of the top PCB is correct. Attached is a repeat of an image I posted previously. I have written "Display" and "Sockets" at two of the edges. Do these indeed correspond to the sides of the board where the display and input sockets are? (The image is deliberately flipped about a horizontal line through the middle. That does not affect my question.)

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2023, 11:55:35 am
content: Thanks again for your continued doggedness! Trust you are now back to 100%?Yes, the position of these contacts is exactly correct. If you look back it's the same as the one in the photo I first posted and which gives the selected units on the LCD. I think there is also some input to these from the bottom side of the wafer switch - which, of course, is the answer to the problem. Perhaps a pointless observation, but unless the arrangement of these contacts is exactly correct the result is gobbledegook. I had expected/hoped that a near correct positioning would give a partially correct output, but it seems not.Regards,M

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2023, 05:30:23 pm
content: A small change from my previous suggestion for the bottom contacts. Top ones as before.If this does not work you'll need to do a bit of leg work. Short the common and Volts sockets. Make a list of the 30 positions. For every position, what is written on the dial, what numbers including decimal point if any, and all other symbols (eg A, V, k, M etc) on the display. If there is a beeper does it beep on, and only on, the Continuity position?If you are using a DIY contact to replace the one you lost, put it in the position for the outer rings. The angular spacing at the inner rings makes the contact position and size more critical.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2023, 11:00:34 pm
content: Another update which with yesterday's should make a dramatic improvement. I reviewed my work on the top contacts and concluded that I got the orientation wrong. The disc should have the 3 contacts on the left side when the knob is pointing to 2M.The attached shows your original photo of the contacts side of the top PCB with the ranges going round in the opposite direction from the case markings. From that it is clear that when the board is flipped over (left to right) with its rings downwards, the rotating contacts will need to be 3 on left of centre and 2 on right.

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2023, 03:18:36 pm
content: Hi there,you have been busy! I've only just looked at your update, so the following may well be redundant?Attached is a pdf with the meter readings as you suggested. The numerical values displayed are misleading, as the number seems to be random - possibly just an input to a floating gate. However, the Buzz/Diode works, sort of. Short on the meter inputs gives the buzzer, but no diode voltage. Also, I tried a 1kHz signal on the 10MHz position and was surprised to see 0.909 with the decimal point slowly moving from right to left position.I shall now study your latest post and report back.Many thanks for all the effort you have taken.Regards,M

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2023, 10:44:56 am
content: I've checked out the arrangement of the top side contacts and it is the same as I have been using. I can see there must be a correct orientation of the top contacts, the bottom contacts and the switch. I have assumed that if the top contacts are correct then the LCD symbols will appear properly and with the switch correct will correspond to those on the case. But even if the bottom contacts are correct but 180 degrees out will not produce the correct values on the LCD if the top and bottom contact positions need to be in 'sync'?I have also assumed that if the bottom contacts are in correct positions, but not in sync with the case markings, then meaningful values would be shown on the LCD. The present arrangement does not do this, BUT it suggests that some contacts are correct since the buzzer operates as it should when inputs shorted, but there is no diode voltage shown although there is 2.5V on the terminals. (If the short is removed then the BUZZ symbol disappers.) Also, the 10MHz position appears to show a correct value when 1kHz applied; and it shows the decimal point moving from right to left to give the corect value. I shall try a range of frequencies to confirm this. Perhaps I'm clutching at straws but it suggests that some bottom contacts are correct - but which ones?Best regards,M

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2023, 03:11:12 pm
content: Regarding the bottom contacts, see the 5 with white dots on the red contacts. The one for the two inner rings I have high confidence in. The other four I have very high confidence in.Obviously ring 10 (counting from outside) must connect with either ring 9 or ring 11. I've yet to find what I consider compelling evidence for one or the other though I do strongly favour the contact being below centre. That leaves the 7th contact which is still even more of a mystery.For the top set, if you truly have the contacts in the correct slots of the disc and the LCD symbols match perfectly with the case markings, then you can be confident the rotational orientation is correct. There is no symmetry which would give 100% match in any of the other three possible rotations.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2023, 06:31:15 pm
content: If my reasoning is correct this bottom layout should, at least, get the decimal points correct for all the ranges.

author: mikew8760
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2023, 07:44:51 pm
content: Unfortunately I suffered a mild seizure a couple of weeks ago, so things have taken a back seat, at least for the time being.Thanks to everybody who has spent time and effort in helping; I still hope to find a solution to the problem in dues course.Bye for now.......

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2023, 08:14:00 pm
content: I have never heard of Maxwell DMMs.https://www.maxwell-digital.com/index.php?page=products&cat=multimetersThe MX 25-304 looks like it was inspired by Unitrend UT70A. Ranges are similar although it is redesigned a lot.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2023, 10:07:21 pm
content: Mike, best wishes for a speedy recovery.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2023, 10:40:36 pm
content: Quote from: Hydrawerk on May 20, 2023, 08:14:00 pmThe OEM is Victor. See the 9808 at the top of the PCB in the photo in the first post. Victor have been through several iterations of meter with 9808 in the model number. Maxwell have badged at least two different meters with the same MX25-304 number.

author: mikew876o
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 02, 2023, 02:56:03 pm
content: Hi, I'm back!After wasting the whole summer, doing more 'outside' things I now wonder if you are willing to take up the cudgel?I've been trying out the last pattern of contacts, but still not correct.But thanks again for all the trouble you have taken so far.BTW I've been unable to logon, perhaps I have been deleted, so re-registered under a similar pseudonym.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2023, 03:03:05 pm
content: Welcome back.I had high hopes that the last set of contacts would be very close if not perfectly correct. What ranges are working 100% and what are the faults on the ones that are not?

author: mikew876o
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 03:04:52 pm
content: I am very grateful for you considering to continue helping. I've attached a .pdf summarising the responses for each switch position for the last setup. The displays shown are for the meter sockets shorted and left open circuit. I've tried applying voltages and resistors, but results are no different. This has made me wonder if there is a serious fault somewhere on the main pcb, but without some form of schematic it would take more tracing than I fancy at the moment.There are a few curiosities: in many positions the display shows a minus sign. The 10kHz position gives zero, but in a previous setup worked OK. A thermocouple gives correct temperatures and the hFE socket gives true values.Finally, one point has puzzled me; there are 7 contacts and "only" 6 pairs of tracks. The latest arrangement has one leaf 'straddling' an adjacent track. I've always assumed the contacts cover one of the six pairs, even if two cover the same tracks but in different places.Perhaps perusing the list of values may spark an idea!

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2023, 12:14:15 pm
content: I tried searching for 9808 which is the model number of the OEM (Victor) and found a discussion on a Russian site with photos including the one I attach here. This looks identical to your PCB and the selector dial markings correspond too. Using Google's translation I read that some of the posts were about the contacts falling out and asking for info how they should be placed.Although the photo shows both discs with the contacts in a North-South line, I think we have established that they are 90 degrees apart.Give it a try. Bottom disc with contact for two outside rings should be at the top when switch in the 2MOhm position.https://forum.cxem.net/index.php?/topic/195985-%D0%BC%D1%83%D0%BB%D1%8C%D1%82%D0%B8%D0%BC%D0%B5%D1%82%D1%80-victor-vc9808/#commentsPost on first page by boris_ka

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2023, 02:44:29 pm
content: Another post on a Russian site with photos. Post by 4 words.https://www.nn.ru/community/techno/tech/?do=read&thread=2747380&topic_id=64375777Both sets of photos do say that the two lines of contacts should be North-South. Was my earlier conclusion of 90 degrees rotation incorrect?

author: mikew876o
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 05, 2023, 02:59:12 pm
content: Well, I thought I had scoured every corner of the internet without any real success. I found a Hungarian site, Elektrotanya?, which you may know, but not the Russkis! I can only admire your persistence.I shall apply the patterns forthwith and hope very much they are the sought after Pot of Gold.Watch this space......Best regards,M.

author: mikew876o
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 05, 2023, 06:12:37 pm
content: Hooray!!!! Mr Wasedadoc please award yourself a Gold Star. In fact, award 5 Gold Stars.The arrangement of contacts has raised the meter from the grave. I am extremely grateful for your tenacity; I thought I would never live to see a successful outcome. I've checked out all settings, apart from capacitance and induction, which I'll do this evening.Again, many thanks for your help - I'm sure I would never have been able to unravel the conundrum.Best regards,M.P.S. Большое спасибо России!

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2023, 06:20:07 pm
content: Glad to have helped. Hope you and the meter have many more years together.