Model Trains - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2023, 11:36:53 pm
content: Are there any model train enthusiasts on here who model on mostly HO and/or N scale?TIA.Andy

author: TomKatt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2023, 01:16:02 pm
content: I always wanted to build one of those N scale coffee table layouts. But I think Mr Rogers must have got to me when I was young because ended up going G scale outside the patio.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2023, 01:27:16 pm
content: Here's the one I made over about three years - N scale. I don't have it anymore because I had to use the room for other things. All custom designed and custom LED lighting. Might make another smaller one though.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2023, 03:09:05 pm
content: Here is my HO railroad in progress.Just finished laying all the track on 10'x7' benchwork. Approximately 80 ft of track.It uses a custom control hardware based on old DC blocks. However, my throttle is a mix of PWM for slow speed, then transitioning to DC for high speed. I also designed a custom wireless controller around the nRF24L01+ transceivers. The wireless throttle controls locomotive speed, track turnout switching, and structure lights. My current testing has three simultaneous controllers with seven locomotives. Massive congestion on the railway!My first iteration of the custom throttle was based on the my Apple ][ computer. Totally insufficient for the task!I used AnyRail to do the track design and FreeCAD for designing 3D printed buildings and trackside accessories.Recent layout additions include scratch built replica of the family farm.UPDATE: (Photo montage added):

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2023, 04:26:24 pm
content: Xr's N scale looks amazing! Mark looks like you are really getting into great control systems that I can only dream of. I got into an N scale High Sierra quite accidentally and now starting on an HO 10x4 layout. I need to dispose the N scale as I don't have so much space and at 70+ it is harder to deal with. Besides, I have this collection of HO stuff from when I was 30+ in boxes. If I don't get them rolling now, it is going to be too late for me. I am almost done with the tracks. The board is occupying half of a small office room! I have to crawl under it to get to the other side. Made it in a way that I can pull the whole thing forward to do it. Please update as you make progress as it is very enjoyable to read about your work. Thanks.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2023, 04:32:42 pm
content: Here is a picture.

author: pcprogrammer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2023, 05:04:36 pm
content: Trains do fascinate me, but have to many hobbies alreadyI do have some FischerTechnik trains that came with auctions I won on EvilBay, but that is just not the real thing.Just saw this video in my youtube recommended list. You might already know it, if not maybe you will enjoy it too.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2023, 05:07:56 pm
content: Andy,DCC is probably the way to go on a new layout. But, it is sooo darn expensive.Ya, being in my mid-60s, the crawling under the layout to do the wiring beat me up. "Help, I can't get up!"I started my design back in the 80s before DCC existed. Then, the options were DC, rectified AC or PWM for off the shelf controllers.For a good source of information, you might enjoy Charlie's Youtube channel:https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMjSsrcmA4BNeAnh2NxYp0Q/videosAnd this channel for doing scenery:https://www.youtube.com/@boomerdioramas/videos

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2023, 09:06:22 pm
content: Thanks,The best I have seen so far are the Miniatur Wunderland (https://www.miniatur-wunderland.com/)in Hamburg and the Berlin Loxx (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g187323-d1857829-Reviews-LOXX_Miniatur_World-Berlin.html).Hamburg one is many floors and has details that you will not see in many places. Airports, volcanoes, etc. etc. Even the road scenes are motorized.The Berlin one is a model of the city of Berlin. There is one particular thing in that where there is a tiny screen with "people" watching John Kennedy addressing them with the speaker yelling: Ich bin ein Berliner. Fantastic layouts.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2023, 09:10:03 pm
content: Yes, Mark. DCC is too expensive. The cheapest I came across is the recent(?) offering by NCE with a power cab for just over $200, but one has to spend over $20.00 each for the decoders for each loco. It is out of my range. When retired and on SS, every $ counts!It will be DC for now, at least.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2023, 09:23:19 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 01, 2023, 09:06:22 pmYou really really ought to seehttps://pendonmuseum.com/I first heard about it in the late 60s; the volunteers are still improving it piece by piece. Unique and more remarkable than the official website indicates.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2023, 11:27:23 pm
content: Yes, that looks great too. Next time in England.. if I go again! Thanks for the tip.

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2023, 11:53:39 am
content: Is this a show off your other hobbies threadMy contribution is a modest OO gauge L shaped country terminus (no space for a continuous run) that is 12' x 10' overall. Due to advancing years I gave up on N gauge (too fiddly) and duck-unders (to hard on the knees). No DCC here for cost reasons although I don't really see any advantage for single operator end-2-end layouts anyway (sparks controversy)Your layout at least has a continuous run andy3055 something I miss.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2023, 01:11:14 pm
content: The San Diego Model Railroad Museum in Balboa Park operates the Cabrillo Southwestern O Scale layout and the San Diego and Arizona Eastern HO layout. A must see if you're in San Diego. I thought there was a N Scale layout also when I visited there in the late 1980's but their web site doesn't mention it. Back then the layouts where not behind glass and you where able to talk directly with the operators.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2023, 04:13:22 pm
content: Quote from: fourtytwo42 on March 02, 2023, 11:53:39 amSame issues here. Space is a major problem for me too. Only issue I will have is pausing some to let others go by. Using switches is a pain but cheaper. Thanks.

author: Ranayna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2023, 04:20:04 pm
content: Wasn't there also a Video by Dave about an Indiana Jones themed model railroad he saved?I wonder what happened to it.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2023, 04:21:44 pm
content: I have been to San Diego about 3 years back. They were not even properly operating because it was still being built. Paid the money and was out in 15 minutes! May be it is better now. Parking there is a nightmare though.I regularly watch Sam's trains a UK youtuber who does some nice evaluating and other crazy stuff that are enjoyable.Also, Dan's Model railways in UK who does a lot of restorations. Then there is Marklin if Sweden who does a lot on the diorama work.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2023, 04:22:37 pm
content: Quote from: Ranayna on March 02, 2023, 04:20:04 pmI have not come across that yet.

author: Ranayna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2023, 04:28:40 pm
content: Found one of the videos:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-910-indiana-jones-train-set-update/msg1002846/#msg1002846Dammit, 2016... i would not have though it was that long ago

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2023, 06:45:41 pm
content: You did some overtime to find that! I wonder if Dave is still into the trains.

author: TomKatt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2023, 12:25:56 pm
content: Slightly OT - has anyone noticed the price of track going way up? Granted, my G scale track has a lot more copper in it than smaller HO / N scale, but I almost cannot afford to buy new these days.

author: kittmaster
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 03, 2023, 01:00:08 pm
content: lots of work and effort, I did this when I was a kid. Miss it. Even with the house I have today, to much other EE junk in the way to support such a hobby...still love to see others designs...

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2023, 03:28:13 pm
content: This past year I bought a HO turnout and a few locomotives.The turnout was $25 USD and the non-DCC locomotives I bought ranged from $70 to $160. You can pack on another $50 to $100 for DCC and sound fitted versions.No more $30 locomotives and $4 freight cars.Sorry Andy to hear about the San Diego train museum. It's been over 30 years since I was there and thought there was more to it back then, I remember the HO layout being huge with a small N scale in the shadows. Don't remember the O scale layout at all. I wonder when they put up all that glass? That really detracts from the experience.I want to go dig out my pictures. I'll post a few if I find them.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2023, 04:59:01 pm
content: Yes, all the track and loco prices are way up. It is not affordable any more. This may be the reason why most people are not in this hobby as in those days.San Diego must have moved the location. If it was there 30 years back, why would they be building it just a few years back? That may be why it was still in construction when I saw it.Close to my house, in Walnut Creek, there is a sizable and good looking layout done by a MR society. It looks good and admission is only a couple of bucks.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2023, 05:07:31 pm
content: The problem with most of us that we put things away for " when we have time or retired." In my case, as I retired in late 2017, I had a major surgery and am still not in good shape. Limited movement, continued aches and pains below the knees keep me withdrawn most of the time. I started recently as I was inspired by an old friend with whom I lost contact for 40 odd years! Hopefully, my granddaughters will enjoy this. Too bad no grandsons.

author: TomKatt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2023, 05:23:09 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 03, 2023, 05:07:31 pmThankfully, our society seems to be breaking down the gender barriers for science / tech interests. There are no girls in our family (other than mom lol), but I have a suspicion that tech interests flow through our dna no matter X or Y chromosomesCertainly, these are the types of things that are great to share with younger generations

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2023, 05:33:50 pm
content: Gee Andy. I'm pretty much in the same situation. I retired in 2016 when I found out that I had cancer. Surgery and chemo have left me with having a difficult time getting around and neuropathy in my hands and feet. When doing the wiring under the layout, I barely was able to crawl out from underneath and get back on my feet. Doing anything with small things, tweezers and shaky hands takes forever.Just two old timers here, swapping lies and comparing canes!

author: pcprogrammer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2023, 07:01:01 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on March 03, 2023, 05:33:50 pmThere are many old timers here on the forum.Not that I'm that old (59) but having fibromyalgia (also known under Chronic Fatigue Syndrome) sometimes makes me feel very old. Today I had to put some firewood into the basement. After 6 wheelbarrows I was exhausted and sore all over.So I can certainly relate with you guys.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 01:52:04 am
content: Mark,I hope your cancer is in remission. I had a fistula inside the spinal tube. It was pressing against the spinal cord and I was almost getting paralyzed. If only it was detected earlier it would have been much better. Now I have also pneuropathy in my feet due to nerve damage! At least now I can still get about. But achiy lower extremes are so depressing.PCP, I know a family friend who has the same and she is constantly in pain.I believe in karma ant I am paying for something I have done in the past for sure.Anyway, how does one operate or automate signals on a dc system?

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 02:11:24 am
content: Just noted that I hit 1k posts!

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 03:18:39 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on February 28, 2023, 11:36:53 pmI have an N scale layout here in the laband of course the famous Indiana Jones HO layout:

author: pcprogrammer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 10:18:56 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 04, 2023, 02:11:24 amNow you can participate in the lounge conversationsQuote from: andy3055 on March 04, 2023, 01:52:04 amHope she can still manage like I do. The pain is there, but shallow enough to not be a problem. It is a shitty disease though.But this is about trains, so I pulled the box with my stuff out and made some pictures. Most of the stuff is disassembled, but one locomotive looks like it should. Only the motor is taken out of it.

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 11:54:08 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 04, 2023, 01:52:04 amThere are so many ways of doing that you wouldn't believe!Some sense resistance across the tracks easy up to 10K & beyond so not just loco's but also suitably modified trucks. These days it can be accomplished with two diodes & 3 transistors, decades ago i used high resistance relays and high voltage bias supplies (ouch).Another method is reed switches/magnets or optical sensors and a latching circuit (relay or logic) BUT as not continuous things can get mixed up!I guess those are the basic alternatives but I have heard of peeps using RFID for example.I have had huge layouts where maintaining the electronics & software took all my time so I have retired into a strictly manual signal box, just one processor to do point servo's & signal interlocking).Congrats on the 1000 posts

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 01:42:51 pm
content: Adding signals to a model railroad has got to be the most difficult part of any layout.I found some good resources in the past to understand prototypical (i.e. real world railroad) signals are done:This first video is over 2 hours long but well worth wading through.This second video has follow-up videos you can find yourself.Andy, I don't know how you did you wiring, but if you want to run more than one locomotive at a time you need to break-up the track into blocks when doing DC operation (i.e. non-DCC). On my layout, I divided the track between each turnout giving me 14 blocks. Each power driver board has a current sense circuit and returns an occupancy signal when a locomotive is in that block. The problem with this is that I can't tell where the end of the train is (but is fixable) and at first glance I should have more divisions. There's no point going into more detail since your layout is not this complex.There is an automatic signal system out there that does not require you to have divide the track into blocks. It is independent of track power and is based on detection time. This may be a 'good enough' simulation in order to provide a little eye-candy:https://blocksignalling.co.uk/Signal-ModulesThere is also this manual cheapo approach which provides signals but requires the operator to manual change switches to operate the lights. A full time job on its own, let alone operating the trains and turnouts.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 05:25:58 pm
content: Thanks everyone. Dave should also clean the wheels so that they have good contacts with the track. Nice to know you do dabble in this. Sagen seems thrilled with it.I also had everything boxed up and only now I got this going.My layout hast 8 blocks. 4 on each track. Llike you say, I have to keep a close eye on where I stop them because they stop on their own only after over shooting to the next block. I thought of putting some labels where the insulted joiners are. Thanks for the info on the signals. A lot to study.Getting the track installed is one thing all these other stuff takes a lot of doing. I have to service all my locos as the Lubricants have dried out!

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2023, 04:08:02 pm
content: I have 15 turnouts on my layout and needed a way to identify them via the wireless throttles.At first a 3D printed little sign posts (they're about 1" tall) but couldn't see the id from all angles.Now I printed little cubes (3/8" square) to put at each turnout blade to mimic the turnout motor mechanical box.Maybe I should take the time to draw something more realistic to the mechanical mechanism.I painted the letters on one to make it easier to read but I like the more subtle non-painted version.What does everyone think?I also printed some tunnel portals.The stone one I downloaded from Thingiverse the others I designed from pictures.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2023, 04:31:50 pm
content: Those look great. I don't have a 3D printer and that is something I would not have much of a use for also. I am thinking of making some sort of inconspicuous things to indicate the position of the insulated joiners so that I can stop in advance without overshooting.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2023, 04:53:01 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 05, 2023, 04:31:50 pmI thought the same way before I got my printer.You would be surprised what you can find to print. I've found all kinds of things I never thought of from: mini-blind replacement parts to a rusted out coffee maker bottom to a tool holder for my desk to a cable hanger for all my bench hookup wires to enclosures for electronic projects plus much more.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2023, 05:12:11 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 05, 2023, 04:31:50 pmI got my 3D printer about halfway through this last layout. Now I would not even consider building a new layout without a 3D printer. There is so much you can find to print and save all that money on buying those expensive building kits plus designing your own simple things or complicated if you want.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2023, 06:38:42 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 05, 2023, 04:31:50 pmSimilar views here. 3D printing is a useful tool, but fettling with printers is not for me!I use OpenSCAD since it suits my thinking and design processes. I've had things made in PLA, nylon, SLA, and brass.Use Shapeways web site to see the characteristics of many materials, and upload the .STL file to find the cost.DirtyPCBS makes notably low-cost SLA prints.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 06, 2023, 12:07:30 am
content: Quote from: xrunner on March 05, 2023, 05:12:11 pmYes, I want to get back to my Indiana Jones train set and I think that 3D printing the stuff I need (and then painting) is the way forward.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2023, 05:14:51 am
content: Stop it guys! Don't make me buy another piece of hardwareBy the time I get one of them and learn to use it properly, it will be many moons. I also like making stuff with balsa wood for the scenery stuff. I can understand why you guys like it but I can't afford one at this juncture in my life. When you are on a fixed income, lot of stuff has to be limited!

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2023, 05:21:26 am
content: I forgot about the turnouts. Why the hell can't these guys make decent turnouts? Everyone has to be individually tweaked by adjusting the moving parts and filing off the stationary parts. Some locos go through but others won't. Especially steamers with little weight on the pony wheels in front tend to jump off the tracks within the turnouts.What are your thoughts?

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2023, 08:52:31 am
content: Well the problem is we have these fine scale people and then we have old timers like us with old stock and them and fine scale track don't play together wellSo for me I make sure I use course scale track and check the back to back measurements of every bit of stock especially when first acquired as often it's completely wrong. If you happen across something like Bachmann split chassis steamers they have axle stubs pressed into plastic that are famous (to me at least) for being out of gauge and often need correcting.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2023, 10:10:54 am
content: I've been trying to get back into the hobby. My father had a TT size system when I was a kid (well ,he has it now but it's all rusted). And I've bought a bit of Piko H0 kit last year. I've also designed and built a Raspberry Pi Pico based DCC turnout controller, and designed a voice decoder based on the RP2040.I kinda have a working software for it, it can decode DCC messages, but not interpret them yet. I'm also considering whether or not I have to rewrite the protocol reception from circuitpython to C because I have performance issues with it. But the proof of concept was able to play MP3 and wav, and turn a DC motor.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2023, 12:55:04 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 06, 2023, 05:21:26 amI've used Peco code 100 electro-frog turnouts and flex-track without much trouble. I wired the frog through Tortoise Slow Motion Switch machines so I'm not relying solely on the blade contact. I have not had to file or adjust the turnouts in any way. Using the smaller code 83, 75 or 70 size would probably be more fiddly. I don't like the height of the prefab cork roadbed so I bought 3mm cork sheets and cut it to fit.You have to be careful with the smaller height rails (especially code 70) because the flanges on the wheels may be too large and actually hit the rail ties causing a derailment.The only rolling stock I'm having problems with are some ore cars on Shinohara Wye's I bought years ago. I think it's a problem with the cars and not the track because the rest of the 50+ rolling stock runs fine.I also soldered the feeder wires onto the bottom of each rail before laying the track. Pointing each wire to the center of the track only requires one hole to be drilled on the centerline of the track. After ballasting, the wires will not be seen. (Refer to Charlie's Chadwick Railway for this technique. Also, how he wires his turnouts which is slightly different if you're not doing DCC.)

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2023, 01:18:08 pm
content: Quote from: tszaboo on March 06, 2023, 10:10:54 amVery interesting concept.You do know they now make slow motion turnout machines with DCC controllers built-in?Cobalt:https://www.dccconcepts.com/product-category/the-cobalt-collection/cobalt-point-motors/cobalt-ip-digital/Tortoise:http://www.circuitron.com/index_files/Smail.htm

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2023, 03:52:08 pm
content: I use code 100 track and turnouts. I try to use Peco flex track for longer curves and straights. Those are ok. The issue is on the turnouts. I have different brands of them and they all behave differently.My locos are either Fleishmann or Hornby. In general the wheel spacing is ok but I need to check them anyway. They don't slip like Bachmann. I think those are the worst designs. I think it is a matter of testing each loco at each turnout. Painful thing to do.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2023, 04:16:52 am
content: Yes, the slow "tortice" turnout motors are great to watch as they move the points. Only issue is you got to mount them under the table and that involves a bit of work.Just finished most of the tweaking of my tracks. It is not perfect but usable in that two of the steam locos I have go through without de-railing. In the process, I have been servicing those locos as they are being tested. These have been in storage for 30+ years and need some lubrication. I need to do some buildings, stations etc. before the girls come on the 25thCan't afford to disappoint them. Want to add some trees as well. Lot of stuff to do.Please keep writing with ideas guys. Thanks.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2023, 12:19:14 pm
content: If you want to use slow motion switch machines, you really need to drill the hole for the wire to throw the switch BEFORE laying the turnout. Don't know how you would drill it after. And yes it's a bunch of work but you're layout looks small enough that you could turn it up on it's side to mount them. Also, use one of the switch contacts to power the frog as a secondary power enforcement.How to make trees and bushes....

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2023, 04:30:34 pm
content: That is one big advantage to using those motor driven switches. You can easily activate the signal lights from those.The trees are great. I have seen some that look real when you go "down" to looking at that level! Some people do amazing things.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2023, 04:35:26 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on March 06, 2023, 01:18:08 pmThey are servo driven, I don't have a built track to use it. Otherwise I would probably DIY a servo for it.Honestly, I've been even toying with the idea of making my own solenoid for it, since the bought ones are 25 EUR each.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2023, 05:08:49 pm
content: My collection of stuff did not have any RC turnouts and those are damn expensive. I ended up getting some off eBay. They are different makes and I have to tweak them. Lucky I have the time, if not, it would be frustrating. One other thing is that older track seems to have a slight height difference from modern code 100 track.Mark: For HO, what is the best wheel spacing you have found? I have one of those digital calipers with me.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2023, 09:16:58 pm
content: Andy:Here is the standard for HO wheel spacinghttps://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/s-4.2_2019.01.04.pdfNMRA Standards and Recommended Practices documentation (everything you want to know and more)https://www.nmra.org/index-nmra-standards-and-recommended-practicestszaboo:The TORTOISE™ Slow Motion Switch Machines and Cobalt Point Motors are not servos. They are stall motors. You feed them 12 DCV and they run until the gearing reaches the stop where the motor stall (reversing the voltage to goto the other end).Servo motors can be used to move turnouts. mpeterll's youtube channel has an example of using servo motors but he says they are not still available. I don't know what servo controllers might be available.https://youtu.be/Dcf1QiQL4YY?t=352

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2023, 01:46:18 am
content: Thanks, Mark. That is great info.Now, another question. I have used Moly grease on the axles of the locos and it is supposed to be plastic safe. Only time will tell! That stuff is dark grey in color. I have seen some You-tubers using silicone grease. which is white or colorless. That looks much better in color.What do you guys use?

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2023, 11:37:18 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 09, 2023, 01:46:18 amI can't help you on this one. I haven't reworked any of my locos.Even my old locos don't seem to need anything done to them. 'Knock on wood!"However, I would stay away from anything automotive as it is probably too thick and heavy. You might try the model railroad sites. For example:https://midwestmodelrr.com/assembly/lubricants/LABELLE #106 Grease for the gearbox seems to be popular from a web search:https://labelle-lubricants.com/shop/labelle-106-grease-with-ptfe/

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2023, 05:12:28 pm
content: Thanks again, Mark. Since all my locos were not in use for so long, all the lubricants applied at the time of manufacturing has dried up. I am servicing them before I start to run them as sourcing parts like gears for these will be very hard.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2023, 06:55:09 pm
content: Labelle's how-to video is very instructional and I highly recommend it.Skip ahead to time 8:30 for HO scales.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2023, 07:00:30 pm
content: Thanks Mark. That is a wealth of info!

author: pcprogrammer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2023, 11:26:33 am
content: Slightly off topic, but worth the watch. Someone has been very creative in making this train system.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2023, 06:31:18 pm
content: That is amazing! In the 60s Meccano was the thing that was very popular. It is still in many ways. It is a lot of work and one can go crazy with ideas.

author: pcprogrammer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2023, 06:50:13 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 12, 2023, 06:31:18 pmSorry for the really of topic, but each his hobbyVery true. That is what I have at the moment with FisherTechnik. I'm working on some machine to pick boxes from a storage racks. Want it to be able to get a box, move it elsewhere and dump the content, a bit like what is shown in that video.The first setup I made was becoming to heavy and impractical. So I'm taking it apart again but will use some of the idea's in a new setup. But that is for me the fun of it at the moment. Just try to build things and see if it will work as imagined.The picture shows the build. It has four axes of movement. The pillar can rotate and has an up and down part.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 01:38:59 am
content: That is some serious work! I think Meccano has come a very long way and added a lot of stuff. Those days there were only so many things you could build with a set you bought. There were not many variations/options in each set.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 02:03:34 am
content: QuoteI'd say the total opposite is true,look at the sets available today,most are for 1 off models,then compare to what was available in the 50's through to the 70's

author: pcprogrammer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 07:02:23 am
content: Quote from: themadhippy on March 13, 2023, 02:03:34 amYou see this same thing with Lego (technic) and FischerTechnik. More and more parts are made specific for the models in the set and are less universally usable. But that is not to say that one can not spend many and many hours having fun with building stuff.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 05:27:06 pm
content: That is the point. They have refined the parts and added things to the assortment.But getting back to the trains, here is a tunnel under constructionSorry, forgot to rotate.

author: pcprogrammer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 06:21:17 pm
content: It is a burger tunnelLove the little tree in front of it

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2023, 04:59:54 am
content: I have to get the brick for the portal printedMore to come. Anybody got ideas about or against using PWM type speed controls on these small brushed DC motors? Someone on YouTube had mentioned that they are too hard on them and shortens the life span. Any ideas? Come to think of it, DCC controllers are not pure DC as far as I know.

author: pcprogrammer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2023, 06:25:28 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 14, 2023, 04:59:54 amBased on the initial setup I expected some paper mache type of construction.Quote from: andy3055 on March 14, 2023, 04:59:54 amNot an expert, but I don't see why it would be a problem. RC servo's also use some form of PWM to control them. Only issue I had with the brushed motors in such servo's was the wear of the brushes due to going back and forth for tiny movements to often. Talking about cheap (3$) servo's where the motors did not have real carbon brushes but fingers instead.The control systems sold by fischertechnik for their models also use PWM to control the speed. No issues there. The motors are also brushed types.

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2023, 12:23:14 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 14, 2023, 04:59:54 amI found some of them quite vicious, not just the motors heating but also the wheel treads micro-pitting. Presently I am using fairly pure DC with a bit of 100hZ sine wave in it for slow running. In OO/HO I have nothing like the pickup problems I had in N-gauge EXCEPT some x-6-x steam chassis that have rubber tires on the center drivers and pickups only on the outer drivers, these are completely useless and stall frequently so I ensure I don't buy any more of those. I am running tank loco's so no tender pickups but the good makes have pickups on ALL drivers plus at least the leading or trailing bogie, those loco's have no pickup problems at all.If you want to go PWM I would make sure to get a recommendation from someone personally, exhibition operators are a good source IMOP.

author: dave j
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2023, 02:16:17 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 14, 2023, 04:59:54 amI foundthis page with reviews of various model railway controllersand discussion of heating issues. It includes oscilloscope traces showing their PWM waveforms. The site also hashis own designs for several model railway controllers.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2023, 05:03:57 pm
content: Thanks. I haven't checked it yet but seems like he went from PWM to analog in his designs.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2023, 08:29:40 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 14, 2023, 04:59:54 amNow this is a tough one...The evolution of model railroad controllers from DC was to increase the start and slow speed motor response. They began primarily trying rectified AC and then moved to PWM. There were a host of other waveforms tried. I believe today that all DCC decoders use PWM to drive the motors. Some DCC decoders are now also using the back-EMF for speed feedback in order to adjust the motor's response.PWM for motor control can cause excessive heating in the motor coils and increase erosion of the brushes. I remember when PWM first started being used that there was a big concern about overheating the motors. The actual effects of PWM on motors is a mix of many factors. Here are some resources on the theory:Controlling Brushed DC Motors Using PWMSumida Crossing - DCC Motor Control - PWMMy understanding is that any motor deterioration due to PWM can be reduced by increasing the PWM frequency. I believe the first controllers used a PWM frequency in the 60 Hz range (some tied to mains AC freq). DCC controllers seem to be at 16 KHz (top of human hearing) and maybe higher for the newest using back-EMF sensing.There doesn't appear to be a definitive answer as to how big the impact is to the motor lifespan. However, PWM with H-bridges is pretty much the accepted way of controlling small motors. The design of PWM for motor control has come a long way.I keep seeing servo motors popping up in this discussion. Servo motors are a completely different animal. You send a PWM signal to the servo to specify its desired position. But, that is the end of PWM. Servo motors have a angular feedback mechanism from which a comparator drives the motor with a DC voltage in the forward or reverse direction until the angles match.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2023, 10:02:14 pm
content: Thanks Mark. That is a great explanation. Probably the newer motors in those DCC ready locos are designed for the purpose. I think at this time it is best to stick to the older analog controllers as these old motors are hard to replace. Especially for Hornby and Fleishmann, parts are very hard to find.Thanks again for your input.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2023, 01:22:43 am
content: Be aware that a lot of those old analog throttles actually injected pulses as shown in the link davej provided.If you're up to building something here's a hacked together throttle from online circuits. Since it's rectified AC, you would get the slow speed start characteristics without the ill effects of the sharp edges of a PWM waveform. It would be a nice compromise.(Select R1 to set the maximum track voltage.)

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2023, 04:48:12 am
content: This is great! I think I have the parts in hand to build one. Thank again.

author: pcprogrammer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2023, 06:10:12 am
content: Quote from: MarkF on March 14, 2023, 08:29:40 pmThe more modern servo controllers also use PWM internally to control the motor. This at a much higher frequency then the external PWM signal.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2023, 06:28:00 am
content: With all the 3D printers (optical ones), would make sense to buy only generic wheels platforms, with/without motor, then to have (free) downloadable models, for various wagons and locomotives shapes. That will require painting after 3D printing, but that's not unusual in modeling.I bet the printing resin + platform wheels would cost less than the ready made wagons or locomotives, wouldn't it?

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2023, 12:27:54 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 15, 2023, 04:48:12 amDepending on the voltage of the power pack, you may need to add a resistor between the pot and the diode to limit the max track voltage to 12V. I would try to limit the max track voltage between 12V and 12.5V You could safely go as high as 14V, but I would not.Quote from: RoGeorge on March 15, 2023, 06:28:00 amI don't have a resin printer, but that would be a real chore to print you're own rolling stock. By that, I mean doing a CAD design for them. I haven't seen any models that have been made. Although, there are structures and other small items for can download. The actual material would be cheaper. But, I don't know if resin printers can duplicate the fine details and again the time required to do a CAD design would probably not make the savings worth while.As far as wheels, most people will swap out plastic wheels for all metal ones. And the better rolling stock already come with metal wheels.I have been struggling to print a searchlight signal head with my Creality CR-10. The small size seems to be right at the limit for creating the detail needed. They are something a resin printer could probably do but I don't have any experience with their capabilities.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2023, 01:36:31 pm
content: I don't have a resin printer, but so far my understanding is that the level of details and smoothness of the prints is much better than in the filament prints.About the 3D models, it's enough to draw it once. Another source of models can be made by scanning the real thing with a laser scanner, in a rail station or in a museum. There is yet another way to reconstruct a 3D model by using many pictures taken from different angles. Then, there might be technical drawings in archives. None of these is perfect, but I guess will require less work than making a model from scratch.In time, more and more CAD models for trains will accumulate. After all, it doesn't has to be collector's items or copyrighted models, can be fantasy wagons and locomotives that never existed before.All is needed is to be enough enthusiasts, and to bring them together in a forum or some similar online place. There, they can talk to each other, share pics and videos with miniature landscapes and trains, exchange between them info, models and hardware, etc.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2023, 04:59:03 pm
content: Unless one has a ready "market," I think the effort to create rolling stock from scratch and painting will not be worth as I see it. Even with commercially available stuff the details and painting is not all that perfect.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2023, 01:58:51 am
content: Andy,Since you expressed interest in the AC Fullwave throttle a few posts back, I spent a little time today laying out a PCB that I might build to see how my locomotives respond. Here are the gerber files if you would like to have a PCB built.You can remotely mount the pot and run wires to a DPDT switch instead of the relay.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2023, 02:46:44 am
content: Mark,Thanks for that. Is that the same circuit you suggested earlier? Since it is just a few parts, I was planning to use a veroboard but I realized that I don't have the Darlington transistor. I have to order one. I have the rest of the parts. If you do put it together before me, please let me know how it performs.At the moment I have an old Bachmann controller which to my horror was giving out 20 volt spikes. I have my daughter and her family coming over on Saturday for a week and I just got the basics working for the little girls.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2023, 04:00:27 am
content: Yes. It should be the same circuit unless I messed up somewhere.Except, I used a 2N2222 instead of the 2N3904 because I'm have a bunch of 2N2222.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2023, 01:50:37 pm
content: I found another video on making pine trees that is simple to do. Enjoy.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2023, 04:14:01 pm
content: Thanks Mark. I will check on that circuit once I get hold of the Darlington transistor.There is a YouTuber in Canada who does some nice work with cheaply available stuff rather than buying from Walthers etc. I will try to find his page and post it.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2023, 04:23:51 pm
content: Check this out. He has a few more on creating trees etc.https://youtu.be/v0rvFaI8fzU

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2023, 07:18:46 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 23, 2023, 04:23:51 pmThanks Andy. I forgot that I had seen him before.Were you talking aboutBoomer's Youtube channel? He indicates that he is in Canada now but he use to work in Hollywood creating models for the movies. He is very good and explains a lot of insight on the thought process behind the work. I especially liked his series on scratch building a dinner.I follow quit a lot of Youtube channels. Part of my morning routine.Here are a few more channels that have been very instructive:https://www.youtube.com/@THEBENNETTRAILROAD/featuredhttps://www.youtube.com/@ThePixelDepotLLC/featuredhttps://www.youtube.com/@EverardJunction/featuredI am just now getting started on the scenery and putting together the last two buildings that have been waiting in a box for 25 years.I'm going back to my older buildings to add LED lighting. I'm also working on moving the mountains and tunnels from my Anyrail design software to layout to see what looks right. That's why the 3D printed tunnel portals sitting around in some of the pictures I posted.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2023, 04:53:19 am
content: OMG! These guys are great at modeling. If you look at them "in the scale," it is like you are in the scene.Great links.Thanks for the message.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2023, 02:11:43 am
content: Quote from: MarkF on March 23, 2023, 01:58:51 amMark,What is the value of R1 in this circuit?

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2023, 11:39:16 am
content: The value of R1 depends on the AC transformer that you use.For a 9V AC transformer, it would be 0Ω (i.e. no resistor).For a 12V AC transformer, I believe I calculated something around 150Ω.It is just to bring down the maximum track voltage.It's a basic voltage divider circuit:You can use an online calculator to get a value. However, the actual track voltage will be two diode drops (VBE= 1.4V) lower because of the darlington.https://ohmslawcalculator.com/voltage-divider-calculatorOr just put a meter on the output and try some values in the 0Ω to 200Ω range trying the limit the track voltage down close to 12V. Definitively, keeping it below 14V.Note:If you don't use R1 and you're using a 12VAC transformer, the track voltage will be about 15.5V. Which IMHO is a little too high for a 12V motor.Note 2:I'm forgetting about all the diode drops at the front end. So, the voltage will be a little lower. Just leave R1 out and check the output voltage. Then adjust R1 accordingly.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2023, 03:02:41 pm
content: Got it, thanks.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 04:20:56 pm
content: I know, necroposting... Years ago a I was loaned the book Hackers written by Steven Levy. It documents some of the early history of computers, starting at MIT. The term hacking had a different meaning back then, so don't expect the book to be about what we call hacking today.The book starts out talking about the model railroad club at MIT and how they were using some of the telephone switch gear to automate the trains.https://classes.visitsteve.com/hacking/wp-content/Steven-Levy-Hackers-ch1+2.pdfWhen I was a child, I played a lot with my old train sets. I was at a dumpsite an found some sort of electric timer. Basically a motor with a complex rotary switch attached to it. I took it apart to sort out how it worked and used it to automate my trains.I still have a few bits from my old trains that survived. I remember my dad taking me to an old farm house where a lady showed us her husbands old train sets. My dad bought them for me. Shortly after we got home, a person contacted my dad about wanting to buy some of the passenger cars. My dad sold them off before I had a chance to play with them. Most likely a good thing if they were collectable (I was rough on my toys).Sorry but I have no photos of the old setup. Imagine an 8-12 year old playing with plaster, paper mache and spray paint. You pretty much have it. Nothing like what the adults put together today.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 05:11:38 pm
content: Building up the scenery is beyond even most of the adults let alone the young kids. In my case, the stuff was collected for over 40+ years. It is hard at this age to work on these due to the usual aches and pains. I want to complete a fairly basic system I can use to impress the two granddaughters. Pity, there is no grandson. I sometimes wonder what would happen to all this stuff as my age progresses.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 05:49:21 pm
content: A friend's GF's dad who had passed away had a large collection of trains. I met her mom and she let me see it. It was a large HO scale layout that took up most of their basement. My guess is it gave her mom comfort or, she didn't want to deal with liquidating it. I don't have enough parts that survived my childhood to make the cleanup more than taking a box to the recycle bin. The few parts I have are in rough shape and I doubt would have much value to anyone besides me.Saw a website where they had restored some of the old cars. Stripping rust, prime, bodywork... It was like a car restoration complete with new graphics. I've looked for used parts to see if I could repair some of mine. It may be fun to get it running. Maybe just an oval...

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 06:17:15 pm
content: What scale are your trains?

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 07:16:18 pm
content: Mine were mostly O gauge. I had I think an old S gauge that was a steam bullet. Similar to this one, but from what I remember it was a dull silver painted finish.https://www.ebay.com/itm/235307468024I tore one of my engines apart. This is a Marx 999. The wheel bearings are all shot. My childhood custom paint job was in poor condition, not just that I had no skills to be painting at that age, but it had a lot of chips and such. Chemical stripper....I have no idea on the age. I didn't think I could put a price on my childhood memories, but this site suggest the very common one is worth about $20.https://dfarq.homeip.net/marx-999-locomotive-variations/

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 07:28:11 pm
content: My first layout (the test track) was just two ovals.One inside the other with a crossover between them.When my bother and I were kids, our father built a O scale layoutwith Lionel trains. They flew off the rails and onto the floormost of the time. When my father passed 15 years ago, we dividedthem between us. He had them running for my nephew for a while.The new O scale locomotives with sound are all fancy now (electronically).I don't know anything about them.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 07:31:10 pm
content: Quote from: joeqsmith on December 03, 2023, 07:16:18 pmI would say more like $120 in pieces.You can't even get a HO scale box car for $20 now days.Last year I paid $160 for a non-DCC HO locomotive.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 07:34:56 pm
content: When I was in high school, my father took me to someone who builta 1/4 scale steam engine in his garage. He had two flat cars with seatsand a 12" wide track in his back yard for his grandchildren to ride in.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 07:56:48 pm
content: Looks like there are places selling brush and spring kits for it. Nothing for bearings. There is a used, untested motor assembly for one. Bearings may be in just as poor conditions.I had a mixture of Lionel, American Flyer and Marx. Some were tinplate, tinplate and plastic, others plastic. As a kid, we would drag race them, play smash up derby, pull contests. I blame TV for aiding in my lack of judgement. Then again, I did have a lot of fun with them.Here are a few of this engine for less than $30 with shipping:https://www.ebay.com/itm/166468063702https://www.ebay.com/itm/266540159396https://www.ebay.com/itm/276196210593Maybe they will reach $100.I had an engine that took some sort of liquid and would blow smoke and had a speaker in the tinder. I think that was a Lionel. Guessing plastic as it must have been in very poor condition and was pitched after losing too many battles.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 08:02:24 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on December 03, 2023, 07:34:56 pmNice. There was a small gauge train where I grew up that gave rides to the public. I think it was part of a business. I remember getting to ride it but it's long gone. Too bad.

author: andre_teprom
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 09:04:13 pm
content: I used to be big into model trains, and HO scale was my jam. Spent countless hours building layouts and tinkering with tiny details.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 09:32:15 pm
content: Quote from: joeqsmith on December 03, 2023, 08:02:24 pm15" gauge, 13.5 miles long?https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romney,_Hythe_and_Dymchurch_Railwayhttps://www.rhdr.org.uk/

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2023, 10:53:58 pm
content: Quote from: tggzzz on December 03, 2023, 09:32:15 pmI would have been maybe 5 years old and the tracks seemed huge. So no idea on the gauge but I think it looked something like a modern diesel.Appears I had painted this engine at least three times. Black and red. Black and white. Some sort of brown....Shown with what is left of the original black after chemical stripping all the layers.***Also shown after primer.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 12:49:49 am
content: Quote from: joeqsmith on December 03, 2023, 10:53:58 pmThis one scared my 3yo when it drew away from the platform.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 01:38:14 am
content: Very nice looking setup. I wonder now days if you could buy a kit to build one. My grandfather used to build some stationary hot air and steam engines for a hobby. He had made a few locomotives but I think they were smaller. He would make the parts from wood, then make sand castings of them. Thinking a bit of a lost art today.I used some semi-gloss VHT paint on it. The camera flash makes it look way more glossy than it is. I noticed when stripping the paint that there was a flaw in the casting. That's not paint stuffed in there but metal. The experts may be able to figure out when it was made by this.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 01:57:17 am
content: Quote from: joeqsmith on December 03, 2023, 07:16:18 pmThat IS old alright!

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 02:02:20 am
content: Quote from: joeqsmith on December 04, 2023, 01:38:14 amThat is a great paint job. What are going to do about the motor and the rest of the drive train?

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 02:04:40 am
content: My HO layout is only 40-60% complete.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 04:48:25 am
content: Your setup is way nicer than anything I ever had. My layout sat on top of three discarded doors (from a house), sitting on cinder blocks.Quote from: andy3055 on December 04, 2023, 02:02:20 amIt's also missing the number plate and head lamp lens in the front of the engine. The drive wheel gears don't appear too worn but the larger one seems a bit sloppy. The drive axles don't have any groves that I can detect with my thumbnail. It seems the biggest problem is the bearings and a broken stud. I may try and find another 999 as a donor that has the missing parts and gamble on it having better bearings and gearing. I may get lucky and find one that wasn't abused as much as mine. The bearings may have been a common size used in clocks. Beyond that, I think machining new ones may be the only other option.I think all that paint saved the bell from rusting as the nickle looks new.I took some steel wool to the wires and straightened the bends.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 04:57:42 am
content: Quinn Dunki is working on one powered by an actual miniature steam engine.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 05:15:26 am
content: Quote from: NiHaoMike on December 04, 2023, 04:57:42 amI hope you will find the parts for this. Like you said, you can always turn out the bearings. But the small gears might be a challenge.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2023, 04:29:20 am
content: Looks like the others I pointed out all sold cheap. At least I'm destroying a national treasure.The parts engine arrived. It looks like it sat in a damp area much of it's later years. Bearings and gearing were tight, so I tore it all apart, cleaned and combined the two motors using the best parts with fresh grease and oil. Ran it on the bench supply for a few minutes. Runs smooth. Need to machine up some screws to hold it together.Looks too nice compared to the other parts. It's out of place.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2023, 05:31:22 am
content: Post a clip when it is all done.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2023, 03:26:32 pm
content: To make a clip of it running, I would need to get some track. Mine is all in very rough condition. Rust, bent rails, missing ties.... It's been sitting on the fireplace mantle for several years. Surprised my wife hasn't tossed it yet as it's such an eye sore.How rough? Here is my American Flyer decoupler.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2023, 04:38:39 pm
content: More paint jobs.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2023, 02:05:40 am
content: I machined up two brass screws to hold it together and brushed them with some black. I'm not sure what they looked like originally but mine had two wood screws with big, fat heads jammed in it from my youth.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2023, 06:11:25 am
content: Interesting design with the drive gear exposed. Is the a 2-4-0 or 2-4-2?

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2023, 04:16:02 pm
content: That's a 2-4-2. The one behind is another Marx, 4-6-2. Mechanically, it is in good shape but cosmetically, I give it a 3 out of 10. I believe my plastic Lionel that had the smoke and sound was a 2-4-2 as well. I also has a couple of Lionel small pushers, a hand car, and a large diesel. None of them survived my youth. Hand car was pretty cool as it had a rubber man that went up and down as the car moved along.The diesel was very similar to this one:https://picclick.com/Lionel-O-Scale-Santa-Fe-ATSF-8010-Switcher-394995016808.html#&gid=1&pid=1I still have a few metal-plastic and plastic cars but most of the ones that survived are the old tin plate.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2023, 04:47:00 pm
content: It is going to take a lot of efforts to get them into a decent looking setup. You must be retired

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2023, 07:07:58 pm
content: Not retired yet. Better view of the two Marx engines. Switch would normally have been red but shown with gray primer. This one still works but is in very rough condition.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2023, 10:13:57 pm
content: You should watch this channel:https://m.youtube.com/@classicmodeltrains

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 11, 2023, 10:38:18 am
content: I have done some other model railways videos:

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2023, 04:11:58 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on December 09, 2023, 10:13:57 pmChecked out some of his videos.This was a bad weekend for my old train. I ended up rewinding the motor in the 999 Marx. The motor was making poor power and drawing a lot of current. I should have taken some photos. They did not use tape around the laminates and the fiber insulators allowed the wire to directly contact the sharp corners. Over the years it cut through the mag wire's insulation and shorted to the frame. I used tape when I rewound it.So I had the original stator that wasn't shorted. Of course it is riveted to the plate but one stud was broke. So I took the dremel and was going to cut out the bad stud and machine a new one. Of course, idiot cuts the stator. So ground out the rivets then realized the two rivets holding the stator are different. So I ended up saving the studs from the donor motor and re-riveting them to the frame. I unwound the original stator after I damaged it and saw how the fiber plates were a much better design. Looks like they had a quality issue.Now when I grab the drive wheels, I can feel it makes some really good torque. Lot of work to save my boyhood engine that is only worth about $10.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2023, 05:58:41 pm
content: Great videos, Dave. Thanks for posting them. In the area I live, there is just one rail club with a layout. It is pretty decent but I haven't gone there for a long time. Must make a visit with the grand kids when they come next weekend.Joe, I would love to see a photo of the motor you are talking about. With a wound stator, is it like an old Marklin motor?

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2023, 06:22:59 pm
content: Marked up a few photos from the internet for you to help explain. I went a slightly smaller gauge and more turns. Also higher temp wire. To reattach the riveted posts, I used a punch to expand the brass.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2023, 08:19:58 pm
content: Som of the old Marklin locos had AC motors with a woubd stator. Those had a complicated reversing arrangement. They were also 3 rail tracks. I think Marklin still produce the three rail tracks and locos but they are DC/DCC, I think. Never seen one upclose to be sure.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2023, 11:36:58 pm
content: There is a video and a manufacture that makes new motors that fit inside where the old rotor goes.I believe there were three different sizes.For the life of me, I can't find the video or where you can buy the new motors.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2023, 01:03:26 am
content: Is it this one? He is in the UK.https://www.youtube.com/@HornsWhistlesWorkshop

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2023, 01:25:42 am
content: 44 to 45 AWG. Got a few more feet on there. About 20' total. Kapton on the bottom and top layers. You can see where I ground out the studs to remove the stator and dimpled them with a punch to reattach. Both studs are from the donor.Runs very smooth now with good control and a good amount of torque. I removed the dead glass bulb and replaced with an LED. A bit harsh.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2023, 02:24:53 am
content: Clip of it running, cycling the forward/reverse solenoid, finger dyno testing, overspeed. And after all these years, I still treat it like a race car...

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2023, 02:49:28 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on December 11, 2023, 08:19:58 pm

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2023, 03:52:27 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on December 12, 2023, 01:03:26 amI don't know if that's the exact site. But, those are the motors I remember.I do HO. So, never bookmarked it.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2023, 04:10:18 am
content: Quote from: NiHaoMike on December 12, 2023, 02:49:28 amThanks,That is the refresher I was looking for a few days ago.School is a little foggy. But,it's been 45 years ago.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2023, 05:45:11 pm
content: Great clips! That repair seems like almost new, the way it runs. These locos are very noisy. I wonder if they will improve with some Lubrication.I once saw a diagram that shows how those locos are wired for forward/reverse. I wonder as to why those came with such complicated arrangements.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2023, 05:49:04 pm
content: Someone's video demonstrating the Lionel and Marx engines on both AC and DC. BTW, I used DC for that clip showing it running. The forward reversal solenoid toggles when you pulse the power to the engine.IMO, one of the more interesting motors I have is on an old Lionel banjo type signal crossing. This thing uses a vibrator (solenoid) that pulls the motors rotor in and out. They have a washer inside with three small rubber tits that are mounted on an angle. This acts as a ratchet system and caused the rotor to turn. Mine would need a new washer to run or I would make a clip for you of it running.QuoteI cleaned, polished and greased all the moving parts when putting it together so I don't think I can improve it. Of course, the camera is only a few inches away when I made the clip.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2023, 02:10:44 pm
content: First post shows the banjo signal's motor with the washer I mentioned.https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/mpc-lionel-banjo-signal

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2023, 05:24:05 pm
content: Things were much more complicated just a few years back!

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2023, 05:45:02 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on December 13, 2023, 05:24:05 pmOh really? Have you tried DCC?Did you have decoders blow up just because the engine derails?Figured out if two piece of equipment is compatible, or try to figure out something with severely lacking documentation?

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2023, 05:58:25 pm
content: I have not used DCC. However, you got my post wrong. Enough said.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2023, 04:58:04 pm
content: Actually, there are train simulator programs already. It lets you select all sorts of locos and features for the given loco! Much like the flight simulator.https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=train+simulator&sp=mAEA

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2023, 10:24:18 am
content: Here's a brief discussion of automation programs that are available for DCC anda demo of Train Controller. A little long winded in my opinion but worth a look.Somewhere in one of his other videos he shows how to place track insulators so thatthe train slows and stop at exact positions (like the end of a siding or at a platform).IMHO the DCC equipment is very expensive. The locomotives with decoders and sound area bout $50 more expensive. Plus all the supporting DCC equipment under the layout.Although, it does make running trains MUCH nicer.Looking back, all my computer interface electronics is starting to add up too. I starteddesigning it back on my Apple ][ when DCC wasn't around. The Apple was just too slowand the design was tabled for many years. The design didn't really come into its ownuntil I started experimenting with PIC micro-controllers.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2023, 10:37:51 am
content: For those interested, some recent photos(Underside is only a small left hand corner of the layout)(Sander belts are mock-up mountains)

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2023, 12:11:49 pm
content: Meanwhile, people who don't have trains ...

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2023, 01:00:50 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on December 16, 2023, 10:24:18 amDCC is the part that an EE can do themselves. There is DCC++ that you can run on an Arduino. I designed my own turnout decoders and I'm in the process of making decoders for the engines. For me it's part of the hobby, and it's more fun than stocking fake grass from the shop to some plywood.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2023, 01:28:07 pm
content: Yes. But, I believe it is now calledDCC-EX.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2023, 05:13:42 pm
content: Quote from: tszaboo on December 16, 2023, 01:00:50 pmReading "Hackers" (book I previously linked) they talk about the two type of members in the MIT model railroad club. Ones who enjoyed the art, the others, the engineering. I had a book growing up on model trains where they showed removing the center pin (3 rail track) and running two wires to switch the rails. I then expanded on this idea using that motor driven rotary switch I found in the dump.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2023, 09:59:24 pm
content: Here's my first layout, consisting of three straight sections. Don't let the simplicity fool you. I had more track than connector pins. I remember getting a box of nails that I had cut up to make my pins. These nails are what is inside these rails. Then note the soldering directly to the tracks. This solder could have been anything. Looks like cold joints. From the lack of any burn marks, guessing I used my dads soldering gun. This is how I was applying power to the different sections of track.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2023, 10:45:47 pm
content: You will need a nice flat file to make those level with each other

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2023, 10:14:05 pm
content: Some screws and a block of wood. My first test track in operation.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2023, 10:29:20 pm
content: I used to have electric trains as a kid. But I guess the big people most of them it all out at some point. I guess I could always buy some track and try to make a motor and some wireless control.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2023, 06:15:39 pm
content: Correcting the primary source of noise on the Marx 999.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2023, 08:48:07 am
content: 4K CABVIEW: Christmas Freight Train Driver Heading Home for ChristmasRailCowGirl

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2023, 04:23:23 am
content: That is one thing I like to do... ride in the cab! What fun

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2023, 07:50:38 am
content: There is plenty of room to fit a webcam and a Wi-Fi transmitter in a model, so to watch the ride of a model train from the driver's seat.I wonder if model locomotives and wagons ever come with webcams, from factory.

author: lezginka_kabardinka
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2023, 09:11:22 am
content: LEGO trains are cheaper and more fun. Let’s be honest, they’re all toys. Good fun.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2023, 03:21:02 pm
content: Quote from: RoGeorge on December 24, 2023, 07:50:38 amThey don't do that for control, because if you get a little bit of dust on the track, it will disconnect and get stuck for half a minute. DCC makes much more sense. You can do that for less important stuff. Also, consider that trains models nowadays are super accurate to the real life trains, so those lens would stick out.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2023, 09:23:07 pm
content: The little village at the left corner has people and greenery now. Two trains passing by near the tunnel

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2023, 08:26:18 pm
content: Closeup of the two original primary drive gears from the motor I repaired.

author: .RC.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2023, 09:49:51 pm
content: Just a tiny bit of backlash in those gears*.*one looks to be a chain sprocket, the other an epicycloidal style gear.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2023, 10:06:38 pm
content: This topic is gorgeous. I don't have the space to ever make things like this, but I'm having fun vicariously. Thankyou to everyone for the photos.Anyone have a model train set with solar panels between the rails, lights turning purple, a house overflowing with test gear or wind turbines on the locos?

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2023, 04:48:57 am
content: That large gear looks worn-out.No solar but LED lighting in some area. See picture.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2024, 09:31:15 am
content: Majestic Journey: 4K Aerial Cinematics of the Bergen LineRailCowGirl

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2024, 06:05:44 pm
content: That is beautiful! On the ground, it must be very difficult to get about with all that snow. I have never been to such places other than to Berlin in the height of a winter.BTW, the best layouts are in Berlin and Hamburg I think.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2024, 06:32:30 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on January 21, 2024, 06:05:44 pmYou need to see the Pendon Museum in Long Wittenham south of Oxford.https://pendonmuseum.com/Construction started on the 50s, and it is nearing completion. I first heard about it in the 60s, in a railway modelling magazine.Here's a 1958 cinema short on it, in a style typical of the era.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2024, 08:19:12 pm
content: Yes, these modelers are beyond imagination. I wish I had their manual dexterity and was not so clumsy.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2024, 09:12:21 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on January 21, 2024, 08:19:12 pmTook daughter to Pendon Museum, and by chance it was an open day. They showed her how to make model cauliflowers. She was sufficiently inspired that we made a small farm scene together.I think patience and imagination are more important than manual dexterity, since the latter is usually a matter of practice.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2024, 01:39:45 am
content: Patience is a rare commodity in my case

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2024, 09:01:28 pm
content: I see some posts of night photos.I just finished retro-fitting interior lighting for my builds. The lights for each build can be turned on/off from either the laptop or from a wireless throttle.And a screen capture of the computer controller with touch screen. Turnouts can be changed by touching the ID square beside the corresponding turnout. Lights are switched by touching the asterisk on top of the building.In addition, I 3D printed a bank of interlocking levers for my signal tower. I did a few rounds of design and they are a still a little too big. But, I don't know if I can print them any smaller. Each lever is printed separate and glued to the base. They are not a visible as I was hoping.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2024, 09:26:36 pm
content: Interesting software. Is it fully custom or something from the web you have added your layout and comms to?> Each lever is printed separate and glued to the base. They are not a visible as I was hoping.Maybe it's because the windowframes are glowing so brightly, obscuring the levers.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2024, 10:49:11 pm
content: All the software (the laptop, the USB master control module in the computer interface, the wireless throttles, etc.) is written in C/C++ using a custom drawing libraries. OpenGL library for the laptop and another custom graphics library for the OLED display in throttles for doing all the drawing.Behind the scenes, I used Anyrail to design the track layout. Anyrail can export the layout to an XML file. I wrote another program to parse this XML file to allow me to draw the track over top of a background PNG also exported by Anyrail. Not shown on the screen capture, each track power driver has built-in occupancy detection which is by drawing the corresponding block on the display in white. Each track block is also drawn as red or green indicating direction (i.e. voltage polarity) if the throttle is turned up. There are also throttle positions on the left for all 15 blocks.The only thing I did not write were the routines to read/write BMP, JPG and PNG pictures. The terrain and structures on the screen captures is a PNG file exported from Anyrail.I forgot about the analog PCB. In total there are four programs:- The laptop master- A pic18f4620 in the USB-to-I/O interface using a FTDI FT245RL- A pic16f876 in the analog PCB to control each track block (PWM slow speed, DC medium/high speed, occupancy detect)- A pic18f2620 in the wireless throttles using a nRF24L01+ radioAs for the signal tower, the interior lighting is pretty bright. I think the bigger problem is that the model came with the top half of the windows having shades painted on them.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2024, 02:54:18 am
content: Lovely! You can do a lot in N scale with limited space. But it is too fiddly for me.I toned down the lights in my layout and it looks much better now.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2024, 01:13:08 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on February 07, 2024, 02:54:18 amIf you're referring to my layout, it is HO scale (10ft x 7ft).I have the LEDs set at about 25% of their full brightness.They seem overly bright in total darkness but I hate to lower them much more.I've toned them down twice so far. I'm being to wish I had made them adjustable.Maybe I'll come back to them. Now, I need to move on to painting and ballasting the track.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2024, 01:37:35 am
content: 10x7 is a good size. I have space only for 9x4 usable area on a 10x4 board. It has already taken half the room!You can dull the LED surface if needed to reduce the brightness.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2024, 02:36:10 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on February 08, 2024, 01:37:35 amIn the small railroad maintenance buildings, I painted the LED lens with TAMIYA Clear Orange to get more of an oil lamp effect. In the industrial buildings, I kept the warm white color. I have some cool white LEDs I'm going to try to use for street/parking lot lights. They're not very bright though.If you look at the Signal Tower, the upstairs is 'warm white' while the downstairs has the 'TAMIYA clear orange'.Warm white LEDs have become difficult to find. Most of the LEDs (Mouser / Digikey) just say white without specifying color or temperature. Their datasheets are just as bad. The datasheet lists that different color temperatures are available, BUT the part number doesn't reflect any temperature selection.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2024, 02:45:07 pm
content: Here is what I made. Turnout decoder for DCC.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2024, 04:58:03 pm
content: I am getting very jealous!

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2024, 04:59:57 pm
content: Quote from: tszaboo on February 08, 2024, 02:45:07 pmMake a bunch and sell them.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2024, 05:05:23 pm
content: I can't quite make out what it does.I don't do DCC. Just curious?Does it just power the frog and diverging tracks?Does it throw the points?Is that a MCU to decode the DCC?

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2024, 05:20:32 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on February 08, 2024, 04:59:57 pmI tried, there was very underwhelming response from everyone. I gave away a bunch to friends and family for now.Quote from: MarkF on February 08, 2024, 05:05:23 pmIt drives the solenoid based turnout motors like these:The whole frog thing... Most European brands as I understand have been making insulated frogs for decades now, so I honestly don't know which brands have this issue. Maybe older layouts.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2024, 05:41:31 pm
content: I believe most companies offer both insulated and electro- (metal) frogs.My question would only apply to electro-frogs in which case the frog polarityneeds to change with the point positions.The advantage of an electro-frog is to avoid loss of power going over the frogfor short locomotives or ones with only one set of pickups.Most of my turnouts are Peco (who offers both types) with a few Shinohara.The track is Peco flex track with brown ties.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2024, 02:13:49 am
content: Quote from: MarkF on February 08, 2024, 05:41:31 pm

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2024, 09:16:57 am
content: Quote from: MarkF on February 08, 2024, 05:41:31 pmI'm familiar with the issue. I just don't see track layouts where the electro frogs are used. The Piko layout I have has isolated frog that actually makes a contract when you switch it. Marklin, Fleischmann and other Europena brands do the same as I understand. Peco, Atlas and other American brands do different things. So I wasn't going to add this functionality, as I tried to keep it simple and small.Quote from: andy3055 on February 09, 2024, 02:13:49 amThere isn't anything revolutionary about this, Marklin has turnouts that have the electronics built in, and as I understand Zimo accessory decoders for example can be programmed to do this. Al these companies have their internal engineering team, if they wanted something similar, they could do that easily. I mean it's a size of a loco DCC decoder with less functionality.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 04:24:43 am
content: My Lionel 2-6-2. Like my old Marx, these are not worth a lot. If you want to repair one, you may find a whole new engine is cheaper than that one part you need.I found two Lionel tinder cars in my stash but both were plastic in rough condition. More so than my other bits.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 04:48:16 am
content: The 3 rail system!

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 11:06:14 pm
content: If you use a fiberglass pen, you can clean the wheels very well.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2024, 03:03:07 am
content: I wonder how much current the loco's use? Including the headlight and smoke generator.O-scale train set I had, it was powered by a Louis Marx 1209 toy transformer. LV AC variac, no circuit breaker or fuse that I remember. It seems to have been a Marx train set, I'm not sure.Made quite a few sparks on the tracks. Tried cleaning them with steel wool, uncle's idea. That lit up and started burning. Scared the shit out of me.Then the figure-8 crossover shorted out intermittently and the track got red hot and smoked. The train set from hell lol. A manly model train, that's for sure.Years later went N then HO and that was plastic baby in comparison.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2024, 06:21:07 pm
content: Quote from: floobydust on April 20, 2024, 03:03:07 amH0 is typically less than 1A on full speed. I don't know the smoke generators because I'm not interested in old locos.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2024, 03:34:31 pm
content: Those older motors may be taking a bit more than that. Also, the moving parts are heavier than that of newer models, adding to the load.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2024, 11:29:48 pm
content: Quote from: joeqsmith on April 20, 2024, 04:57:14 amO-gauge is I think a brushed universal motor? No magnets that I can recall, and I thought AC. In that thread they were saying up to 4A typical.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2024, 12:53:50 am
content: Mine are brushed with wound stator and rotor (no permanent magnets). I have been running them with a DC supply but the old controllers were 0-18VAC to run the motors. In other words mine will run with AC or DC. I did not measure the current when I was running them but can tell you that my supply was limited to 5A and they broke traction before folding back. I started out testing with my 2A supply and it would fold back. So for my engines, somewhere between there.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2024, 02:22:53 am
content: I noticed the old Lionels have no reverse? most were from the era before diodes and it's a mechanical thing to flip the field coil around, or add a bridge rectifier.Or the third rail was used for that hmmm.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2024, 04:07:07 am
content: All of mine had reverse. Some had a bumper that would change the state of the switch (and rotate a little man on top) but most had the E-unit you show. This includes all of the engines I have ran pull tests on.The two Marx engines have forward and reverse. That Lionel has forward, neutral, reverse, neutral. It can also be locked into the last state as your drawing shows.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2024, 04:55:41 am
content: The village playground has a working merry-go-round.

author: jonovid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 03:27:08 am
content: add Cats to the mix

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2024, 03:28:28 pm
content: Not a great idea as the hairs will clog the locos. Anyway, we don't have any animals at home. Less trouble for me.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2024, 04:52:20 pm
content: Quote from: jonovid on June 30, 2024, 03:27:08 amAll the makings for an early horror movie.As a kid I had a little circle track/train set, and also the Turbo Train kit, that had magnetics and drove up a vertical section of track. I have some good memories of that stuff, but sadly it all got thrown out decades ago.The 1st variable PSU I used to do stuff with was the one from the circle track/train. I took it apart at one point, way before I knew any amount of electronics. I can't remember what was inside, it, but not very much. I remember burning out an antique light bulb with it, it looked like a ball of cotton inside, and unfortunately it burned out like it was too.Here's a really cool model museum in Hamburg, Germany

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2024, 11:03:50 pm
content: I have been to the Hamburg one. It is amazing. Multiple floors and such details. There is a much smaller one in Berlin. It models the city of Berlin.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 17, 2024, 03:27:46 am
content: Quote from: MathWizard on July 16, 2024, 04:52:20 pmI've been there, it's beyond awesome.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2024, 03:31:49 pm
content: I can't remember if it had the speech from JFK. The Berlin layout definitely has it. It is made like an outdoor cinema where people are watching him speak with a cell phone size screen!

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2024, 11:37:01 am
content: I have just completed some major work on my speed profile and thought I would share my results for those interested.My layout is non-DCC. Designed before the advent of DCC.The custom track power has 100 speed steps. The 0-12VDC has 256 voltage divisions. In addition to a constant DC voltage, it can produce a PWM output with 127 pulse widths. The amplitude of the PWM pulses is also controllable.I should also mention that I settled on a PWM frequency of 80Hz. The hardware is capable of 10Hz to 400Hz (generated by software).BEFORE (red):My original speed profile was linear with the first 24 steps being PWM then changing to constant DC for the remaining steps. While this had very good slow speed response and control, I found that a lot of knob turning with little change in the locomotive speed.AFTER (green):I moved to an exponential profile for both the PWM and constant DC speed ranges. The number of speed steps was reduced to 50 and the PWM widths reduced to 16. These changes have maintained the slow speed response while providing the appearance of a smoother control over the entire speed range.Attached is a graph of the before and after speed profiles. Notice that the PWM pulse amplitude is not full scale but only about 8V. Not shown is a 4V idle stage which I hoped to be able to turn on the locomotive headlight while not moving. The problem is that the pulse width to keep the loco from moving is to small to have the LED headlights to come on. So, the idle position has be reduced to perform just block detection.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2024, 04:18:03 pm
content: Wow! That is very impressive. I am just about done with my scenery. I will post some photos 2nd week of November when I get back home from travel. Your info makes me think a lot more in to this. Currently I have 3 loops individually controlled for 3 trains with cross overs from track to track. All DC. Can't afford DCC conversions on my 80 s models.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2024, 04:40:10 pm
content: Each track block is driven by a PIC16F876 microcontroller and a MCP4802 8-bit DAC. This allows me to create pretty much any waveform shape to drive the locomotive to experiment with. Back in the day, power packs used various methods to drive the loco from constant DC, to rectified AC, to PWM. I decided on this mix of PWM for best slow speed response then switching to constant DC to avoid any motor over heating. Overkill. Probably just a pure PWM would work well without any adverse issues. Also, it would be easier to generate.By the way, my current layout is divided into 15 blocks. I have two analog PCBs that are capable of 10 blocks each.I estimated that there is around 80ft of track all totaled.

author: valcher
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2024, 06:15:34 pm
content: What a wonderful hobby you have, looking at your models took me back to my distant childhood. Once I had several sets of trains with a large ring, three switches and two dead ends. All the sets were from East Germany, if my memory serves me right - Piko, track width -16.5 mm, locomotive power supply DC -12V, switch control AC 16V. Of course, none of this exists now. Too bad...Five years ago I gave my grandson one of these sets, but his interest in it lasted literally three days. The tablet won.Recently I visited the exhibition - "Grand Maket Russia", it is located in St. Petersburg. I was amazed by its scale and equipment of moving models of trains, cars and their interaction with each other. Of course, all this is controlled by controllers.Please, do not consider this an advertisement.https://youtu.be/5vN2tS5rBCY

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2024, 06:49:29 pm
content: A few more pictures:I've been doing a lot of 3D designs for the layout.An office building complete with interior, LED street lights, and highway Jersey barrier:Dummy turnout motors with label for easy identification and selection and a real one:Not a great model. I just needed a way to id a turnout for the operator to select and throw.My track sits on 3mm cork and the height allows the model to sit down into the ballast and onto the baseboard.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2024, 04:18:15 pm
content: My locomotive inventory. Half new and half Athearn Blue Box from the 80s.You can also see the second section of ballast I'm working on at the top of the photo.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2024, 12:13:24 am
content: How big is the layout? I have limited space. It is a 10'x10' office room. I just confiscated almost 2/3 of the space. The board is 10'x4' but the layout is itself is around 9'x4'. 2 ovals and a smaller circle in the middle.It was looking bare and the moment I started the scenery, it had a great view. The trains get hidden in some places and when they emerge on the other side, it is very nice to observe. Other than having a decent track plan, the scenery makes it very interesting to watch. At the moment I am adding the last of the scenery and the remaining lighting.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2024, 01:31:22 am
content: My layout is 10ft x 7ft with 36in legs.If I had it to do over, I think I would make it 42in high. Crawling underneath to do the wiring would have been easier.Here's my AnyRail output of the layout showing a 6in grid:AnyRail is a nice track planning program with 3D view. The free version is limited to 50 pieces of track.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2024, 01:58:21 am
content: I have spent a great deal of time writing software for the layout.- a program for controlling track sections (one pic16f876 does two sections of track)- a master program for communicating to the track and the nRF24L01+ radios in the throttles (a pic18f4620 with FTDI FT245RL USB interface)- a laptop GUI program with touch screen for overall control and situation awareness- a program in the wireless throttles (a pic18f2620)I stayed with PIC microcontrollers throughout the hardware so that I only needed one development environment and programmer. The laptop code was done in Visual Studio. Everything is written in C/C++.But then software development was my 35+ year career.I started working on the track power design back in the early 80s. At that time I was going to do the PWM all in hardware. My Apple II just couldn't handle it.It was put on hold mostly because of the need to wire-wrap a huge board with counters, latches, and DACs. Then about 10 years ago, I made my way into Microchip PIC microcontrollers and redesigned all of the electronics.This is the heart of the railroad:Edit - Missed the program in the throttles

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2024, 05:27:07 pm
content: Experience in programming is a great help. My C experience is so many moons old and never did after school stuff.There is a working carousal and a nonworking Ferris wheel in the layout. The scenery adds a lot of color and detail and it makes the whole thing look very interesting!I am attaching a few pictures that I had on my phone.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2024, 12:34:40 am
content: I have made four versions of street lights.I may use more than one version. However, which one does everyone prefer?

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2024, 01:50:05 am
content: It all depends on the time you want to model. B and C looks nice. A does not look a street light and D looks too boxy.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2024, 02:34:50 am
content: D looks like the lights at a mall parking lot, if you're modeling modern era.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2024, 09:54:26 pm
content: Thanks all,These have flat tops in order to 3D print upside down. The bottom has an open channel to run the wires.They are all pretty simple for ease of printing.I haven't decided on an era. Probably on the older side. Not much interested in modern times.D) Is one I've seen in parking lots around stores as mentioned.C) Is a round version of D for variety.B) Is a modern street light that is most common.A) Is an antique light I've seen around parks (thought it might be nice at the depots or engine house).A few examples of version A:

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2024, 03:05:00 am
content: Makes sense. But the fixture diameter on A, should be smaller in proportion to the height. It looks too big, I feel.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2024, 12:00:51 pm
content: I'm going to drop this quickly. It's mostly MÁV, with some DB cars or engines mixed in.And yes, it's on the floor. What am I, a carpenter?

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2024, 01:17:52 pm
content: That is a good way to get the track plan worked out if you don't have the software!

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2024, 01:19:37 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on November 08, 2024, 03:05:00 amYes. I already reduced the dimensions. I'm somewhat limited on the lamp size by the size of the LED that needs to fit. I have various smaller LEDs but they don't give off much light. These are the ones I'm planning to use:LCW MVSG.EC-AZBZ-4U9X-1Quote from: tszaboo on November 08, 2024, 12:00:51 pmThat's how it starts. The fever just gets worse.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2024, 06:39:51 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on November 08, 2024, 01:17:52 pmThere are free software like SCARM to design your layout. It has standard sizes, layers and everything, and it's freeware.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2024, 06:53:53 pm
content: Quote from: tszaboo on November 08, 2024, 06:39:51 pmAnd there isAnyRail.I use version 6.58.2 since I'm running Win7.I think it is easier than SCRAM. It's easier to make the track connections.

author: flipper
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2024, 12:40:14 am
content: Whilst I don’t indulge or find much interest in model trains, I can see very much why people like this pastime.As a child, I bought some track pieces, just to admire the precision and beauty of the rails and sleepers. I don’t wish to watch models of a train whizzing predictable around a pretend world, but it’s coolI like that Pete Waterman of SAW “Stock Aitken Waterman”, likes model trains; I LOVE the music his production company created, so he gets a free pass in my mind. I wonder if he could train (punintentional) Dave to sing? He sure has the range on the upper octaves 🤣

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2024, 04:01:47 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on November 08, 2024, 06:53:53 pmI have been using Xtrkcad for years also free, I don't remember what got me started on it but I just got used to it and for me it's the sort of tool I can remember even if I have not used it for a few years.

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2024, 04:26:50 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on November 03, 2024, 01:58:21 amAhh another DC automation PIC man! I also had a pre-DCC individual loco-control layout in the 80's, each section had a pwm speed controller & track circuit, loco-speed was passed from section to section as the train moved along. The whole lot ran using 16C84's that AIRC was the only PIC available way back then. It was in N-gauge in the attic of the house and the combination was very unreliable especially as I model UK steam outline. In later years the system moved to a bedroom and got considerably larger but the unreliability persisted even when I got rid of the automation. It was only after 30+years in N gauge I gave it all up and changed to OO, what a revelation!! So now I am embarking on a new automated layout still with PIC's but in OO gauge.One thing I did learn is to avoid PWM or any other sharp leading edge waveforms like certain feedback controllers, I instead use an emitter follower type amplifier from unsmoothed 1/2 wave 50hZ AC that seems to be motor friendly, good for slow running and confer fairly constant speed. I know everybody has there favorite controller but that is mine for now having been using it for about 20 years.My present model is very small being just 8 x 6ft & only my second in OO, it has a continuous run that my first did not.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2024, 03:33:18 am
content: Quote from: fourtytwo42 on November 18, 2024, 04:26:50 pmYes. Andy and I discussed a rectified AC throttle back in Reply #74.The avoidance of PWM is the reason I have a transition from PWM to constant DC at high speeds. Also, I limit the PWM amplitude to apporx. 8Vpeak. Since modern DCC controllers all use PWM with some form of EMF feedback for control, I feel safe in my current design. I don't have any DCC equipment to check what the motor waveform looks like.If you're interested, I'll attach my current circuit. The left side is on the "Analog controller" PCBs with a PIC16F876 and a MCP4802 DAC to drive two track blocks. The right side is the "Track driver" PCBs for each block. It does current limiting and block detection. And the PWM frequency is set at 80Hz.I can't say the circuit diagram exactly matches the PCBs. There are missing caps for example.Point of interest:When I visited the San Diego Model Railroad Museum at Balboa Park back in the early 1980s, they said they were using rectified AC at 90Hz for their HO layout.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2024, 03:47:10 am
content: Quote from: fourtytwo42 on November 18, 2024, 04:26:50 pmI don't have much in the way of automation. From the wireless throttle you can select one of the track blocks to set the speed and direction. To ease the load, I also have several pre-planned routines that can be selected. If a route is selected, the laptop will adjust the speed and direction of each track block contained in the route. The challenging part was detecting conflicts when more than one throttle is used at one time (i.e. multiple people).One thing I built into the throttle is that it is impossible to switch from full forward to full reverse. You turn the knob clockwise to increase your speed. Then you turn the knob counter-clockwise to slow down, stop, and go in reverse. No direction button.REVERSE -> IDLE -> STOP -> IDLE -> FORWARD

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2024, 09:52:30 am
content: This is something you don't often see.I rather enjoyed it!

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2024, 06:13:08 pm
content: Very interesting! Thanks for sharing

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2024, 11:00:54 pm
content: Here is a short clip of my working merry-go-round.https://youtube.com/shorts/BUpNOx-wSSE?feature=shareI have it slowed down and it is much quieter now.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2024, 11:19:12 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on December 09, 2024, 09:52:30 amImpressive. That must take some real weight and power (look at all those locos).

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2024, 02:19:16 am
content: He weighed just the plow in another video. He had 9 lbs of steel and stones in it.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2024, 04:52:04 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on December 09, 2024, 11:00:54 pmI would slow it down much more if I could.The kids would be flying clear out of the park at that.Maybe it's just me slowing down. . .But I'm much more interested in how slow I can run my trains.That's one of the reasons I went through the throttle speed steps analysis. I want to be able in the first few speed steps run the locomotive at a walking speed you would see in yard switching. I'm close to the performance of DCC equipped speeds being able to have the locomotive take 1 or 2 seconds to move from tie to tie.The faster they go, the more 'toy like' they look to me.It's interesting that my new locomotives do not run as fast as my old Atherean Blue Box ones.More prototypical I suppose. I never measured their speed to see how fast they are (the old ones).

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2024, 07:56:10 pm
content: I did slow it down. I will post a new video soon.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2024, 08:24:11 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on December 10, 2024, 04:52:04 amAbsolutely agree.Toy trains race around the oval next to the Xmas tree at super-unrealistic speeds (before they fly off the track).The slower, the better. Without stalling, of course.Speaking of realistic vs. toys, in the G-scale videos, I find those Chessie locomotives to look very toy-like; maybe it's because of all those crappy Bachmann "train sets" that had Chessie locos and cars, but they all look like toys to me. Which is unfortunate, as it's actually a pretty nice paint scheme ...Give me some Espee or C&NW locos ...

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2024, 10:12:40 pm
content: How about this?

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2024, 10:21:05 pm
content: A few stills:

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2024, 02:21:54 am
content: Here is a great YouTube clip to watch. Pay close attention to the commentary.https://youtu.be/CbUzmwO5bKw?si=plISQf48caMr4U3V

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2024, 11:56:09 am
content: That's some engine.I wonder if a wooden stick in the throttle was part of the original design?"Fire water in the fire box."Where else would you keep it when you have a steam engine in your living room.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2024, 04:01:00 pm
content: Yep. The man is really dedicated to his job and the engine... even after retirement. There was a mention of a Pensylvania company earlier in the commentary.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2024, 04:22:00 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on December 14, 2024, 04:01:00 pmWas that the Baldwin engine?

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2024, 11:04:38 pm
content: Yes, Baldwin Co.Another thing I noticed is how clean the trackside is!

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2024, 12:04:14 am
content: What I noticed was the ballast.There was a lot that looked like just dirt.I don't know if it was just stone covered with sand and ground or what.And they mentioned they needed the big engine for all the grades.But most of what they showed looked pretty flat.There was only that one loop where it returned and went under the track.And the temporary funicular while they laid the track.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2024, 04:00:56 am
content: Probably the loop was to get rid of the steep grade.

author: Dougmc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2024, 11:04:46 pm
content: In Cincinnati there is a place calledEnterTRAINment JunctionDo a Google map search has much better pictures than there we site.anyway it's closingJan 5..maybe stuff 4 sale..he had been trying to sell the businessI took the grandkids there years ago.it was neat

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2024, 06:26:04 am
content: Some prices are not bad but some are too high. Anyway, shipping to the west coast will be too much.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 05:30:01 pm
content: Ballast... Oh what fun!I'm coming to the end now. It's been taking about one hour for every foot of track to lay and glue.I have the tops off of the tunnels for painting. You can see the 3D printed blocks for the walls.A couple photos showing my 3D printing madness:Road crossings and small pedestrian crossing.Need to glue and paint the office building. And get the movers to take the furniture inside.Steel coils for the gondola car.Jersey barriers.Concrete curbs for parking lots.Extended platform for freight station.Railroad crossing signs.Updated thinner case for throttles (new one on the left).

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 06:33:22 pm
content: I decided not to lay balast as it was too much work and in case I have to do any modifications, it has to be easier to clean up/redo. Instead, I did some mix of "stones and foliage") in some places. This is not in the middle of the track but outside. I use dried up tea in places where I want to see some gravel. When dried, it has a beautiful chocolate brown color.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 07:19:40 pm
content: I haven't done much painting yet.Ya. Days on days of hand painting the sides of the rails with a tiny paint brush.I didn't want to spray everything like most people do.I didn't make a big difference in the look.It DID make a big difference. Much more realistic.I've been getting the cheap Apple Barrel acrylic paint from Walmart. $0.50 a bottle.I've been gluing everything with a ModPodge and water mix wetting the area first with a spray of 50% IPA.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 07:39:01 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on January 21, 2025, 07:19:40 pmYou might want to try altering your technique there. I sprayed my rail sides, with a rust-brown acrylic paint, and it made them look very realistic. You ought to try it; it'll save you a hell of a lot of time (unless you enjoy brushing scale miles and miles of rail).Just put masking tape on top, set your airbrush for a very narrow spray and spray lightly.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2025, 03:53:51 pm
content: I've have found that it is much less work to just wipe the tops of the railwith a cloth while it is still wet when painting and ballasting.Very little, to no, cleaning the rail afterwards.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2025, 12:42:42 am
content: I used to wrap a rag around a small piece of thick cardboard or wood to make a rail wiper.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2025, 07:27:14 pm
content: Some photos with VWs!

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2025, 07:28:16 pm
content: More!

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2025, 07:43:22 pm
content: I wish I had some HO scale vehicles but they are so... expensive.The ones you see in my photos are old Matchbox vehicles from my childhood.They're a little too big for HO.Oh, for the old days when you could get Athearn Blue Box rolling stock cars for $5.00

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2025, 08:44:24 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on January 24, 2025, 07:43:22 pmThere are many 1:76 models available because that's a standard for car models. It's close enough.Plus I've found you can buy scenery by the dozens on used model fairs.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2025, 09:00:42 pm
content: Quote from: tszaboo on January 24, 2025, 08:44:24 pmIf I'm not mistaken, 1:76 scale is OO inEuropethe UK.(Happy now?)While HO scale in the USA is 1:87. Making my Matchbox cars a little big.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2025, 11:17:36 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on January 24, 2025, 09:00:42 pmMost EU model trains are H0. The English have OO, which also goes on the same rails as H0.Cars independently have 1:76.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2025, 09:26:56 am
content: When we were kids we knew them as 9mm, 12mm or 16mm, the distance between tracks (in Romanian the distance between rails is spelled 'ecartament', the automated translation gives the English words 'gauge'). I don't know if those 9/12/16 millimeters were in metric system or if the values were the closest (rounded) imperial->mm conversion.We never refer to the size by HO, or by scale 1:nnn (like in maps).I'm not sure if the model trains correctly preserve the track gauge.For example, when trains were traveling between Europe and Russia, the wagons were lifted with a crane (without wheels), and placed on a parallel track with another set of wheels. This was because there is a gauge difference between the European and Russian railways, and it was faster to change the wheels than to disembark everybody, or to unload and reload the transported goods.Are there any Russian train models, too, and if they are, do they have a different gauge between tracks?

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2025, 11:53:35 am
content: Quote from: RoGeorge on January 25, 2025, 09:26:56 amThey don't.According to Wikipedia the track gauge for both HO and OO is 4' 1½" where as standard gauge is 4' 8½".While both scales run on the same track, the models themselves are actually different.OO scale (left) and HO scale (right) models of the EMD Class 66 from Wikipedia.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2025, 12:23:16 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on January 25, 2025, 11:53:35 amThe "We" plural is not a neopronoun, it's a description of people, a country or several countries. In which case it would refer to several post Warsaw pact countries would refer to model rail.OO is non existent In continental Europe. You have H0, TT and N, but TT fell out of fashion. People would just call it 16mm, or 12mm rail. Or in West Europe, they would just call everything Marklin, because that's what seems to have most of the market anyway, with their AC 3 rail H0 system.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2025, 01:45:24 pm
content: Be "we", I meant "we, the kids, were talking back then about train models as being of type 9/12/16mm".

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2025, 07:13:16 pm
content: Quote from: RoGeorge on January 25, 2025, 09:26:56 amThat's interesting, and I didn't know that.I had assumed that the Soviet Union used our (U.S.) standard gauge of 4'8-1/2" (1435 mm), but that's untrue.I guess I thought this because of the "Little Joe" electric locomotives that we built and were going to send to the Soviets, but which were withdrawn before being shipped over there. They were then put into service in the US. So were they built to our standard gauge, and then the Soviets were to replace the wheelsets?That's quite a big difference between their gauge (1524 mm) and ours (1435 mm).

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2025, 08:52:08 pm
content: Quote from: RoGeorge on January 25, 2025, 09:26:56 amI expect you are aware ofhttps://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Latour-de-Carolthree gauges at one station in the Pyrenees.https://www.revistaitransporte.com/changing-gauge-without-missing-a-beat/main lines (URL changed)

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2025, 09:48:26 pm
content: Quote from: tggzzz on January 25, 2025, 08:52:08 pmThat link is 404 for me.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2025, 10:21:20 pm
content: Quote from: Analog Kid on January 25, 2025, 09:48:26 pmStrange. I wonder what the hell happened there.Tryhttps://www.revistaitransporte.com/changing-gauge-without-missing-a-beat/

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2025, 02:46:45 am
content: OO vs. HO:This is a great explanation of the whole thing.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2025, 02:56:47 am
content: This shows an automatic gauge-changer in operation.The train doesn't even stop.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 10:13:42 pm
content: The opposite side of the tracks.Layout update with new 3D items:- Shorter office building walls that are more to scale.- Rooftop air conditioning unit for office building.- Trash dumpsters.- New end-of-track buffers.- Pedestrian track crossing (Not entirely happy with it. It might get the bin.)That short section of track between the Iron Works and the Office Building is all that's left to do of the ballasting. The little pedestrian crossing is holding up production. That whole parking lot and road crossing area has been a headache. It just doesn't look right to me.Added lights to the Office Building but have to paint and assemble it next.How do people do their parking lots? I have seen a few techniques used but haven't decided the easiest way to make them. Art was never my strong suite.

author: Njk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 11:09:05 pm
content: Quote from: RoGeorge on January 25, 2025, 09:26:56 amExactly. 9mm were too small and 16mm were too expensive so I'd 12mm (of so called TT scale, which corresponds to 12 mm inter-rail distance, according to Wikipedia). Mine were all from Piko, Germany. BTW, the company is still in business, that's amazing

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2025, 08:57:29 pm
content: RoGeorge, reply 257:I think there was something similar in Spain in the first half of the 20th century. Spain had a different gauge to the rest of Europe so there were special stations in the Pyrenees which had trains from Europe arriving and passing everything across to a Spanish gauge train parked alongside it.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2025, 01:35:51 am
content: I think Spain still has them.

author: jonovid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2025, 03:14:34 am
content: Model Train Sound SynthesizersIf you're interested in adding 1970s analog sound synthesis to your model trainshere is some audio synthesizer electronics particularly made for model trains.at the time this equipment was very expensive.The Obscure World of Model Train SynthesizersBenn Jordan is a musician & his yt channel that about acoustics & Music synthesizers not model trains so you may need to skip some parts of the video.go to video time line-0:58 the analog sound equipment made for model trains2:17 how it worked on a model train3:13 the cost of the equipment at the time4:00 yt channel check out ‪@Hyce777‬! about PBL digital model train sound equipment.4:35 setting up the electronics5:19 to 8:46 playing & testing the sound equipment14:38 the electronics

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2025, 04:23:20 pm
content: Amazing! I was laughing at the rat's nest of wires and plugs.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 02:51:34 am
content: Is there any chance someone can 3D print some gears for me?

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 05:52:10 am
content: What size and type of gear are we talking about?I've been printing pretty small stuff. But, I would not be able to get enough detail out of anything small enough for say a locomotive drive gear. And something on the order of a dime wouldn't have enough strength in PLA or PTEG. I've never printed gears so I don't know how they would hold up under load. I believe a filament printer will have problems printing even a gear the size of a dime.I drew up some squirrel cage fan blades but never printed them. I'm afraid they'll just fly apart. They're about 5" diameter.You would probably have better luck with someone who has a resin printer.But hey, I'm always game to try drawing up a gear and trying to print it.Then we're going to be fighting dimension tolerances and printer calibration.I saw, some time ago, a YouTube video where they printed some small gears but can't remember any details. If I get some time, I'll try to find how they worked out.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 08:09:44 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 07, 2025, 02:51:34 amhttps://dirtypcbs.com/store/print3dand SLA is trivially cheap.Shapeways if you want nylon or brass (or gold or platinum!)

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2025, 06:15:12 pm
content: Repairing another one of my childhood toys.Time stamped to another one for comparison.https://youtu.be/vCN-FgctbwQ?t=342

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2025, 12:20:20 am
content: Hi Mark,I am not sure how I missed this. I can send you a sample gear to do a trial. They are small but some people are printing them and selling on eBay. Price is ok, but shipping is too much and not every gear is available. PM me and I can send a sample.Thanks

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2025, 12:22:16 am
content: Fabulous little motor! Never seen anything like that. Could you modify it to stop at a given position instead of oscillating?

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2025, 04:00:09 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 16, 2025, 12:22:16 amYou could maybe find a small stepper or a servo. Not sure what the point would be. Most of what I have is from the 1940s-60s. It's been fun to get some of it working again, bringing back some fond memories of my childhood. That's really the only purpose it serves.https://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionel_trains_140_acc.htm***Something like these may fit.https://www.amazon.com/Abovehill-Stepper-2-Phase-4-Wire-Connection/dp/B08346RFVZ?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.YgE5e0E_32b23eTwigkW6bTfmEeDKjdSZMsTLIiRBiPNmXxC8Emp5vJVafR9Jdx3ZTPqgDHAN1xHT7e2C6C6JlOygHR_07xGuN6tQrrgVrYBY1j1tGYC1dT6rA2UXJ0k4NBLev28YE7T_guP521QvU4GW_IBqAyo9as2vx8ZmtwflrZY_y9Tx2J4aV9MfXHxW9mkRI1Q2gAMJdld5syxe8OrhYFSaq62EMknSH_bAF8.guJrLARX5sx6hTvqgzl3v0lP-gdPdpbAYQlaP4XYGe4&dib_tag=se&keywords=micro+stepper+motor&qid=1742146115&sr=8-3

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2025, 06:36:05 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 16, 2025, 12:20:20 amDo you have an actual gear or do you have a STL file?If you can't model it yourself, can you take a high res photo perpendicular as you can get with a ruler visible.I could model it and see if it is possible for me to print.I've still been going crazy printing buildings and accessories for my layout.A yard office, a cottage (still don't know what to call it) and a model of the barn I grew up with.

author: zboltman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 16, 2025, 07:52:15 pm
content: I have 2 LARGE totes fulls of HO Train Engines, cars, track, parts and scenary.I want to sell it as a lot, but don't know how.For a while, my hobby was restoring HO engines. Lost's of fun; but I'm to old now.I'm in the 90703 zip if anyone wants to talk about it.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2025, 01:21:52 am
content: Mark,I can mail you an actual gear.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2025, 01:25:19 am
content: You can sell it on eBay as a lot. Get them cleaned and take some nice photos. You can separate them depending on working or non working... parts. There are so many bidders.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2025, 02:31:33 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on March 17, 2025, 01:21:52 amNo need for the actual gear just to see if I can make it.A detailed photo will due to draw a CAD model.However, getting a working gear to meet your dimensions is a lot of trail-and-error even if I get the model exact.Variations in printer calibration and making measurements requires a lot of tries.Just take a look through the following thread at what it takes:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/3d-printing/resize-a-stl-file-for-me/msg5285056/#msg5285056Even my own parts take 5 to 10 prints to get the fit correct.I'm on the east coast and you would really be better to find someone closer to try many versions.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2025, 04:34:25 am
content: Yes, it does seem a tedious process. Thanks

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2025, 06:59:15 pm
content: A couple new photos.Started working on the mountains and the farm.And a closeup of the electronics.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2025, 03:44:55 pm
content: You have a lot more to do!

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2025, 07:54:41 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on April 24, 2025, 03:44:55 pmYep. Barely scratched the surface.Two more layers on this mountain and haven't started the big one in the opposite corner.I've been putting off terrain. Don't know what I want and not very good at it.And hundreds of trees!!!I got side tracked doing the old farm house for the barn.Originally didn't think I had space to squeeze it in.My cousins are going to have a smelly time of it.Can only see the old house roof through the trees (lower left).I'm not doing the three story one above it that is visible.Some old photos when I was a kid.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2025, 08:10:29 pm
content: I guess I should make the old out-house too.What do you all think?... And yes, I used it when I was little. And the pot under the bed at night.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2025, 06:17:32 am
content: Beautiful! You must do the outhouse for sure. Make the door a bit old and with a broken hindge

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2025, 06:53:32 pm
content: One out-house open for business...I need to put up the pasture fence before the cows get out.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2025, 11:48:06 pm
content: They look very much like the California happy cows!!!That barn look very neat. What about some chickens, goats and a lovely lass feeding them?

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2025, 12:51:23 am
content: The gent and lady are leaning on the barnyard fence (they don't stand on their own).When I was very little, we had horses, hogs, chickens and guineas on the farm. No goats.I'll have to search for some HO scale chickens.I remember chasing the cows out of the corn field several times when they got loose.And chickens running through the meadow without their heads at butchering time.And seeing my cousin (shown in the out-house photo) squirting milk at the cats while she milked the cows. All done by hand in those days. I never got the hang of milking. I was too little at that time to do it.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 01, 2025, 07:34:03 am
content: This video popped up on Youtube today, wowand a follow-up:https://youtu.be/ofLLsp9uB5o?si=ja7Rv9rO60ht3bxa&t=660

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2025, 09:23:42 am
content: Quote from: MarkF on April 30, 2025, 06:53:32 pmSuch a long fence, putting it up might take '"til the cows come home"!

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2025, 12:30:11 am
content: A whole bunch of Hornby locos! They never die. I have several of them that are 40+ years old,getting the runs only now.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2025, 05:38:42 am
content: All my old locos and rolling stock are Atherean Blue Box kits that I built back in the '80s. Also back then I built the Cambria Iron Works, the Engine House, the Signal Tower, the two Freight Stations and the water towers. Everything sat until about five years ago when I started all the software and electronics. Mostly I didn't do anything because I wanted a computer interface and my Apple II just wasn't fast enough to do PWM. I did a hardware design to do PWM but all the wiring-wrapping was a daunting task.Then came cheap PCBs, DipTrace, and FreeCAD and I got the bug to start again. My PC software has a date of 2020 but I can't believe it's been that long ago. Then again I have the laptop program and three different PIC programs to run everything. I suppose the biggest challenge was the interface to the nRF24L01+ transceivers I'm using in the wireless throttles.The biggest question is "Would I do it all over?" or taken the plunge into the DCC world.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2025, 06:23:12 am
content: That is a lot of work. I just run DC. I also got one of these "Locofi" things installed in just one loco. Just trying it out. Everything is on a tiny board. Control is on the app on the phone. Not complicated at all. The cost is around $120. But unlike DCC, it is very simple. Speed, engine sounds, horn and bell all inclusive. The acceleration can be preset. Has Emergency stop, light control etc.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2025, 11:42:01 am
content: Interesting, I was not aware of LocoFi.The cost seems to be on par with DCC modules.You may be interested in a look at EX-RAIL.It's basically DCC modules in the locomotives and controlled by Arduino hats.I believe it also has a WIFI shield and a phone app.In buying new locomotives, it seems to be harder to find DCC_Ready versions.The majority appear to have DCC modules already installed.It's getting harder and harder to get away from DCC.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2025, 05:41:24 am
content: Thanks for the info. I thought DCC ready was the standard now. Not every one wants DCC already configured. People want different configurations.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2025, 02:01:45 pm
content: Earlier in this topic, I posted a graph of my updated speed profile and a photo of the stack of circuit boards. Here is the schematic of how the speed profile is delivered to each track section. And the emitter follower transistors on the track power board to provide the necessary current to the track. The track power PCB also performs current limiting and locomotive occupancy detection. Shown is one of ten PICs used to generate the profile (PWM for slow speed or DC for medium to high speeds). The track is powered from a 15VDC power supply in order to have enough headroom for the op-amps and the power transistors to provide 12V to the track.Each logic PCB has five PICs to generate the speed profile for ten track sections/blocks. And there is a track power PCB for each track section. Currently I have 2 logic boards and 15 track power boards. Additionally, there is a PCB capable of driving 30 relays for turnouts and LED lights.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2025, 09:58:21 pm
content: Farm update.I thought I would only have space for the barn.Now I have five buildings.Barn, milk house, main house, out house, and wood shed.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2025, 04:46:47 pm
content: Very beautiful! Once you do the trees, grass, etc., it will look great. I am waiting to see what you will come up with.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2025, 05:22:29 am
content: I have installed a LocoFi™ system on my Hornby Class 37 locomotive. It is part of the Hornby Freightmaster set which I bought many moons (some 40+ years) back! It has a 3 pole motor due to which the speed control is lacking very fine control. I have to increase the track voltage to get better low speed control. LocoFi™ can handle p to some 20+ volts. I still think even with a 3 pole motor, I should be able to fine tune it with the acceleration controls.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2025, 02:33:41 pm
content: I did a quick look at LocoFi and you should be able to adjust it's speed profile for better performance. It appears to have limited adjustment capability but you might try lower it's max speed to start. That would shift the profile points to the lower end giving you more control.It's hard to tell from the video but it looked like the locomotive was running very fast at 1/2 or less speed setting. If that was the speed you had with the controller set near its max, you would have better control. I'm not big on seeing trains zooming around the track at 200mph scale speeds. And my new locomotives don't run as fast as my older 80s era ones. Most of the old locomotives run much much faster than their prototypical speeds.You are correct in that you should be able to adjust the LocoFi to give better performance even for your old locomotives. (My post with the speed profile graphs was to get that performance.) I am able to have my old locomotives barely moving while still pulling 10 or more cars. I can watch a locomotive slowly move from tie to tie. You just need to push the settings toward the low speed end.You won't be able to duplicate this with LocoFi but this video may give you some ideas on how to configure what you have:A quick update:Looking at the LocoFi Locomotive Configuration pdf, the default number of throttle notches is 8. I use 50 and DCC defaults to 128. Push that default up to 32 or 64 notches for finer control.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2025, 07:59:05 pm
content: Thanks, Mark. You are correct. One problem I notices was that at 12 Volts (DC) track voltage, I could not get it to move until the speed control was around 25 MPH. However, when I changed it to a pack with 16 Volts, I got better slow speed control. Now I can get it to move around 15-18 MPH on the control. My thought was that the "old" 3 pole motor did not have enough torque to get it moving. I did not want the track to be too high as I want to be able to run other locos without burning the motors going over 12 Volts.So now, I must play with the settings as you mentioned to get better slow speed control. Yes, I too like things to move slow so that it looks more realistic. I think I have a lot more to experiment with this contraption. Thanks again for the pointers. Much appreciated.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2025, 09:56:22 pm
content: Take a look at this video I found on the LocoFi website under the LEARN tab:It's about consisting two locomotives, but half way into the video he shows how to adjust the speed and the resulting slow speed performance obtained. I believe your setting the voltage higher is just treating a symptom and not the cure. The very first thing in the calibration process was setting the minimum to get the locomotive to move. DCC is 14V so you might want to do you setup with 14V so you could run it on someone elses layout. Plus 14V gives the module some headroom to provide 12V to the loco at max speed.I use 15V on my layout because that is the next most common off-the-shelf fixed DC power supply voltage above 12V you can buy. And +/-15V was the typical op-amp voltage back in the day.Update: Fixed bad video link

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2025, 02:23:04 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on May 09, 2025, 07:59:05 pmYou're on the right track.The problem with the old 3-pole motors is that it takes a lot to overcome friction in the rotor. All of the new throttles and DCC use some form of PWM to get them going (in addition to the new motor designs). The latest DCC modules are starting to use EMF feedback to track the motor response. Providing a firm lock on the motor RPM. You just need to tweek the parameters to get the desired response. Before PWM, throttles experimented with rectified AC voltage to create a small vibration to over come the friction.I see your point wanting to staying with 12V for track power since you're also using non-modified locomotives. I don't see a problem with this for LocoFi. Your LocoFi equipped loco will just have a slower top speed. I doubt you will even notice unless you're having a race. Just use 12V for your setup and see what king of results you can obtain.Like I said, I use 15V for my supply but my track will NEVER see that voltage. My high current driver boards will drop at least 1.4V of the that. Plus more voltage loss due to the voltage gain setting for my op-amps. I seem to remember the highest I can drive my track was 12.5V from direct measurement at the rails.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2025, 03:54:26 am
content: Thanks, Mark. I need to understand more about the different adjustments and how they contribute to this. As for the 16 volt issue, I have to keep it in mind when changing to the DC only locos. Nothing like trying the various tweaks.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2025, 10:03:50 pm
content: At last!

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2025, 10:38:28 pm
content: Looks good.Do I detect that there was a little hair pulling involved?Are you going to upgrade your other locomotives now?I was looking at the Roco Z21 system earlier today. It's similarly based on an app and WIFI. But it uses the standard DCC decoders in the locos instead of a propitiatory decoder like your system. Model railroad electronics is growing by leaps and bounds it seems.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2025, 06:19:37 pm
content: Hi Mark,Actually, I didn't understand the terms and what the various adjustments did until I saw a clip they sent me where someone else explained in detail how to set up things. The info given on the enclosed paperwork did not do a great job. Once I watched the clip, I was able to get it right off. Probably also because I never tried any other things like DCC, may have contributed to the problem I had.As for other locos. I want to do one more for the time being. Can't afford a lot when retired and on SS and a bit of savings!You are correct in that many systems are now being developed. One example is using a basic Audrino to do speed control.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2025, 12:28:55 am
content: I mocked up an abandoned railroad tunnel at the end of one of the depot sidings where it's too close to the mountain in the corner. Used an old rock tunnel portal and a wooden retaining wall section I didn't use. The hill will be a combination of rock carving and retaining wall along the track.What's everyone think? Keep the abandoned tunnel or loose it?In addition, I just finished printing an extended passenger platform (part with green roof).Like they say: "If you build it, they will come."People are still in their shipping bag.The bench seating and the lighting doesn't show up in the photo very well.For the big picture, I updated some of my photos on the first page of this topic.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2025, 02:34:21 am
content: I likw the platform. It looks very neat. If i were you, I would keep the tunnel. It makes for a part of the train get hidden when moving. Once you do the landscape detials it will look nice.BTW, I got my 2nd LocoFi unit and have two locos now with them It is much better than having just one. I have met the guy who does it in person. He lives in San Ramon which is just 20 minutes away from me. Nice guy and very helpful and responsive as well.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2025, 03:27:15 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on June 21, 2025, 02:34:21 amNice.I've been doing some serious mods to my software in the laptop. I'm doing a little 'assisted automation' where the power to each block follows the locomotive and the direction of each turnout. Giving it a little more DCC feel for control. Currently, I'm limited to two loops (i.e. the inner one and the outer one) without the ability to cross between them. It uses up two of the slots allocated for pre-programmed routes. You can still get down to controlling each individual track block and turnout from the wireless throttle.Just started testing and nothing has blown-up yet....ya!I'm quickly finding out that my blocks are too big which limits my sensing the loco positions. And it would be nice to be able to sense the position of the end of each train.My biggest worry and issue is when a loco stops on top of two blocks. If the two blocks are of opposite polarity, they will short out. I have current limiting in each block but was over generous with the max needed for a train. I was thinking the old locos would pull close to 1A and a consist of two would be 1.5A to 2A. Each block is limited to 2.5A at this time which is far too high and the heatsinks overheat. I'm running two consists of two locos each (i.e. 4 locos) at one time and they only pull 0.75A total. I bought new sense resistors to reduce the limit to 1.5A but haven't had the motivation to crawl under the layout and change all 15 of them. Soldering over ones head is not fun.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2025, 06:06:25 pm
content: What is the reason for you to have different polarities on two adjacent blocks?

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2025, 07:22:39 pm
content: Here is the track plan divided into its different blocks.(Some track is not shown due to the limitations of the free version of the AnyRail program.)Mistakes happen. I first discovered how big the problem is while running multiple locos. I left one sitting on top of two blocks while trying to run a second loco onto a section so the two could pass in the opposite direction. While moving the second loco, I noticed it couldn't get it to run very fast even at high throttle levels. It turned out that the slow block was being shorted out because the first loco was between it and an adjacent block that was turned off but in the opposite polarity (direction). This occurred while two locos traversing the wye.A turnout in the wrong direction can route a loco into a block you're not expecting to use. And you don't know what polarity it was last left in. In most cases a shorted block wouldn't last long. But, you may not realize what is going on for a while.I've since paint a tie blue where the insulators are between blocks to help damark their locations.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2025, 07:37:15 pm
content: Ah! Got it. True, it is hard to remember where the insulators are. Now that explanation gave me also the idea that has bugged me for a while! Thanks for that idea. I was thinking of doing some sort of a number sign near those places but that will make it harder to see in that scale when things are on the opposite side of the layout. Long distance vision getting poor!

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2025, 07:52:27 pm
content: I have another question.I have two spare tunnel portals.Do you like this wooden one or the previous rock portal better?I made both this wooden portal and the wood retaining wall covering the entrance in FreeCAD.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2025, 08:22:00 pm
content: At railroad crossing, there is a post with a 'W' on it that tells the loco engineer when to blow the whistle. The posts look like 4"x4" about 4 ft high. You could put a post at the insulator if it's near a crossing.Here is an example of blue painted track ties:

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2025, 10:43:44 pm
content: Thanks for the photos. As for the tunnel portals,I like both. I think you have to think of what you are planning to do just outside those. Then, you can decide which one to use.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2025, 09:03:01 pm
content: Standing back and reviewing where I'm at with the layout, I thoughteveryone might like to see a couple old pictures of the farm when I was little.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2025, 11:49:19 pm
content: Nice. I wish I had a farm... but with others to work there! Meaning a rich farmer

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2025, 01:05:10 am
content: Give a ball to those cows, so they can play with it:

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2025, 01:33:25 am
content: Ha Ha!

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2025, 04:42:07 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on June 22, 2025, 11:49:19 pmThe stairs are a little steep...

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2025, 04:39:22 pm
content: That reminds me of old buildings in London and back east, with no elevators!

author: SteveThackery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2025, 07:31:06 pm
content: Re the cow video: the sound effects are hilarious! What a pleasure to watch.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2025, 07:49:46 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on June 25, 2025, 04:39:22 pmWhich is preferable: those stairs or paternoster lifts/elevators?

author: dave j
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2025, 08:41:14 pm
content: Quote from: tggzzz on June 25, 2025, 07:49:46 pmPaternosters are fun. The secret is to be bold anddon'thesitate.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2025, 10:54:55 pm
content: It is like walking on to an elevator. Timing is the key.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2025, 08:17:56 pm
content: Layout update:I'm realizing that speed changes at the high end are not very noticeable (i.e. the 9v to 12v range). I have re-visited my speed profile for the throttles and have reduced my speed steps to 34 (green). I have condensed the expential response for greater voltage changes at the high end. The first 16 steps are a PWM waveform and the last 18 steps are a constant DC voltage. This is my fourth iteration from 100 to 64 to 50 to 34 steps now. As a comparison, DCC systems commonly can be setup for 14, 28, or 128 step mode.The peak voltage for the PWM waveform is around 8V. This level seems to work well for both my new locomotives as well as for my Athearn Blue Box locos from the 80s.This change has reduced the needed spinning of the throttle encoder with little, if any, noticeable change in speed responsiveness. As I've known for awhile, control at slow speeds is the most desirable. Most prototype operation would be in and around a yard setting where you would be dropping off or picking up cars. You don't get much satisfaction of seeing trains at high speeds around in an oval.Here is a new graph of my last three iterations:I did some actual voltage measurements (right vertical scale) and found that 1V steps don't line up linearly with the index value I send to the DACs. I'm not concerned by it. Just surprised.EDIT: Extended speed profile analysis to include delta_change/speed_step plot for exponential progressions. I also tailored the 3X and 4X profiles for smoother step change rates. I've currently settled on the 3X zoom with 34 steps of which 16 are PWM (green plots). The discontinuity in the delta plots are caused by the switch from PWM output to a DC voltage output.I have also been updating the software. Primarily adding control for signals (stop sign like icons) and zoom of the throttle bargraphs to reflect the new 34 step maximum. Track blocks are drawn in white when occupancy is detected.I bought 3two aspect (red/green) signalsfrom Evemodel for testing.I also added some new photos of the layout to the photo montage back inReply #3.On a side note, the "ProtoThrottle from Iowa Scaled Engineering" is very interesting for prototype operations.ProtoThrottle operation at the Seaboard Central:

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2025, 04:34:13 pm
content: It's about time I presented a detailed description of my custom throttle.It has a 128x96 color OLED, a pic18f2620, a nRF24L01+ transceiver, an encoder, and two switches.There are a maximum of five throttles that can be used at one time on the layout. However, I only built two.There are four areas that are selectable by pushing the encoder knob: throttle position, cab number, turnout/light number, or straight/thrown/Off/On state. The Cab names and Turnout/Light names are downloaded from the laptop at Power On. There are a total of 30 each. The 30 Cab names are divided into 15 power blocks and 15 pre-programmed routes. There are 16 turnouts on the layout (AA through PP) where the name is engraved on the dummy switch motors I 3D printed for easy identification. That leaves 14 lights controllable from the throttle.The laptop checks for conflicts in the operator selection of Cab and Turnout/Lights by multiple throttles. If a conflict is found, both offending throttles are locked out until it is resolved and a conflict indication is displayed on both.Since the layout is DC power (non-DCC), the throttles display green for CW (clockwise) movement of the trains and red for CCW movement. Irrespective of the direction that the locomotive is pointing on the layout. With the 3x zoom of the speed bargraph and the new 34 step speed profile, the bargraph gives a better indication of the actual loco speed. Prior to the speed profile changes, only about 25% of the bargraph was ever used in normal operation. Since the changes, most of the bargraph is used in operation and the switch between PWM and pure DC is in the center of the graph. Overall a much better indication and usage of the throttle position.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2025, 05:55:55 am
content: You have spent a lot of time doing this. Amaszing! Have you thought about going commercial?I got in to a fit and ordered 2 more of the LocoFi units. Now I have four! Then, got into a major fit. Bought 8 Kato locos!!! All this blew me by a little over 1k. Luckily for me, the better half does not ask questions because she knows that I am not a careless spender. He, heh! The NOS Katos run very smooth. They have a lot of details and lovely to look at. Now I have to find a way to expand the layout. This is where I might get killed or divorced.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2025, 08:34:30 am
content: I understand the problem...I just bought 4 boxcars and 2 tank cars last month.No more of the $5 Blue Box kits.If you count all my old locos, I have 11 total now.The new ones run so much better than my ones from the 80's.They seem to be pretty well speed matched too. So, I run them in pairs.Looks more prototypical on the layout.I thought I saw that you can setup consists of multiple locos with your system?If you're seriously going to expand your track, I highly recommend AnyRail.It's pretty easy to learn and the free version limits you to 50 pieces of track.It has most manufactures sectional and flex track to choose from.I'm running version 6.58.2 which is the last version for Windows 7.My track layout you see from my laptop screen captures was generated from AnyRail.It can export a Trainplayer XML file which I wrote a program to post process andcreate graphic drawing commands for my main layout control program. I then overlaidtouch inputs to allow turnout switching and lighting control.It also highlights occupied track blocks in white (never captured a screen sample).Again, giveAnyRaila try (Windows only).

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2025, 09:19:14 am
content: It feels like I'm spending all of my time trying to prevent short circuits.Being able to predict and eliminate shorts at each and every turnout and then to programthe logic for them is turning out to be a monumental task.All these recent changes to the speed profile and throttle display come from just operating the layout. Getting the scaling right and being able to have a meaningful throttle display has been a bit of trial-and-error. One piece of advice for anyone setting up their throttles (even the DCC profiles) is to concentrate on the slow speed end. Like that last video of the ProtoThrottle a few days ago, it's all about the 0 to 10mph prototypical speed control. If you notice he setup his 8 speed notches so that 10mph is in the middle (notch 4) position. To me most modelers will quickly tire of proto speeds of 20 to 80mph and it looks toyish to me. In each of my updates, I've been phasing out detailed control of the high speed range.The slower I get the trains to run, the more I enjoy the layout.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2025, 02:18:09 pm
content: I spent a little time this morning making a short operational video.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2025, 05:13:04 am
content: Yes, this app has the consist function but, I have not tried it yet. Consisting will let me run more locos on the two tracks. Good idea.I agree with the slow running of the trains. It is much better as you can see the action unlike when things just whizzing past you.Your layout is coming along nicely. I am eager to see some scenery..In my case, I cannot do much of expansion with the existing space. I had a lot of track with the sets that bought in the 70s Hornby lot and added some Ni/silver curves and flex track. So far no major issues. Like you say, sometimes the turnouts create problems with shorts. Just installed a LocoFi thingy in one of my new Kato locos.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2025, 12:17:16 pm
content: Can you not make a L-shape extension along one of the side walls?It would be straight dead-end track with a few turnouts for asmall staging yard. It would only need to be 1 ft wide.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2025, 01:06:31 am
content: Ah! I do have it already

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2025, 01:08:20 am
content: Note the small airplane flying over!

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2025, 02:32:27 am
content: Nice.If you could extend each line to 3' or 4', you could hold three complete trains that you could switch out one at a time and run through the layout. It would make the layout seem bigger if you don't see the same train each time. And it would also add a switching operation that would make it more interesting for the operator.Even better if you have enough length, would be to have a turnout at the very end with just enough length beyond for one or two (i.e. a consist) engine(s). That way you could pull a train in, disconnect the engine(s), run around on the adjacent track and connect back to the other end of the train for the return trip.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2025, 04:47:21 am
content: Great suggestion. I was thining what I should do to make this a more interesting layout in the limited space I have. Time to get to work! Thanks, Mark.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2025, 04:29:42 pm
content: I've spent two days of quality time on my back under the layout.Changed all the current limit resistors on the track driver PCBs tolower the current limit to 1.5A.I still have more work underneath to add wiring for more lights andtrack signals.Oh joy!I also finalized the locations for all the farm buildings.I still need to buy some static grass and buy/build a bunch of trees.Made a second night video to show building lights.Eventually, I will add the street lights.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2025, 05:13:08 pm
content: Think about doing any landscape related lighting after the landscaping is done. That gives time to observe the layout in low light to make a better decision.Working under the layout is the hardest of all.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2025, 05:54:25 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on August 27, 2025, 05:13:08 pmYes. I plan on adding street lighting for streets and parking lots.I 3D printed several light versions (see Reply #211). I'll probably go with version #A.Didn't think of small landscape/accent lights. I need to keep that in mind.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2025, 11:02:32 pm
content: That looks good. I guess you are planning on increasing the height of the lamp post so that it looks proportionate to the horizontal section holding the lamp itself.As for the landscape lights, what I did was install some lights along the track sides which looks nice in subdued room lighting.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 10:09:04 pm
content: Two new structures. The automobile shed for the farm andan elevated diesel fuel tank for the engine house.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 04:45:15 am
content: I am feeling very jealous already!

author: Simmed
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 05:54:52 am
content: all it needs now is some grassand catsbad cats ! bad !

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 12:05:07 pm
content: Yes, I have seen those kitties before.Always ready to lend a paw....Years ago, I had three of cats.- Once I had to clean up blue jay feathers all over the basement.- Another, I came home to three plants that were hanging from the ceilingall over the floor. Don't know how they jumped 6ft up to get them.Nothing any where close to crawl on.- Last and best, I had a suspended ceiling in the basement with 4ftlights and several times the plastic shade would be broken on the floor.Thought I had a ghost. One day the mystery was solved. The lights whereopen on the inside and one of the kitties had climbed the wall in the backutility room and was walking in the ceiling. I happened to be going bythe door and saw kitty riding the light shade down from the ceiling....Magic carpet ride don't you know.I lost four light shades before it was all said and done!Fortunately, no trains back then.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2025, 11:15:52 pm
content: A little train ride through the neighborhood...

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2025, 11:24:26 pm
content: Nice. What kind of cam did you use?

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2025, 11:43:32 pm
content: Quote from: andy3055 on August 31, 2025, 11:24:26 pmNot my video.Overview from another one of their videos

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2025, 06:43:30 am
content: That must be G gauge.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 04:43:02 pm
content: One thing I don't remember seeing, even at the miniature world museum, is any sci-fi trains, especially of the military type.I recently found my 1st variable power supply I used to fool around with as a kid. It was the speed controller for my little train set. I can't remember what was inside it, but it wasn't very much. Sadly all my trains and other toys are long gone. One of these days I really should go to the toy store, and buy something modern and fun.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 05:34:16 pm
content: You're in for some serious sticker shock...My Athearn Blue Box locomotive kits back in the day averaged $25.Most non-DCC locomotives now start at $150 and a DCC loco with sound at $250.Generally, all modern locos have a DCC header that you can plug in you favoriteDCC decoder of which there a many manufactures to choose from.And the DCC headers in the locos come in a few different standard pin counts.Getting started in DCC will run you $100's of bucks. Then you have the big decision ofwhich DCC system god you will bow down to: NCE, Digitrax, ESU, MRC to name a few.If you are serious about getting started in the hobby,DO YOUR HOMEWORK!!!There are many costly choices to make for modern model railroading before buying.It's not your granddads simple train set any more. The electronics have become very complex.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 06:25:29 pm
content: Here is just one sampling of what you're up against.This is only the part that goes insideeachloco(not the hand controller and what goes under the layout).Then you have the non-traditional routes like Andy did.The LocoFi and the Arduino based ones to name two.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2025, 03:39:53 am
content: True. The DCC systems will be around 200 or more for the controller and the chips going in the locos can go upto some hundred or so depending on the features in them. One issue is that the chips in the loco can blow up in DCC system for various reasons. The advantage in the LocoFi is that it is all self contained and simpler to install. The controller is an app on the phone. In this, unless a motor shorts out, nothing will blow up. Any shorts on the tracks will do no harm unlike in DCC.However, if you just want to play around, you can get good used locos on eBay and some tracks, power supply etc.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2025, 11:20:01 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on September 06, 2025, 03:39:53 amI apparently don't understand what LocoFi is...- You still have modules that need to be installed inside each locomotive?- The locos still get power from the track?- There is still the issue of shorting the track power and the loco module can still blow up?The only real difference I thought is that control of the locos is via wifi. Where as for DCC thecontrol is modulated onto the track power and sent over the rails. There are two basic formats ofDCC modules inside the loco for DCC. One type has flying wires for connection and the second typehas a connector that plugs into a base inside the loco making it easy to swap the DCC decoder. Allthe wires in the second type being fixed to the base and not the DCC decoder.As for price, I have not done a comparison between the LocoFi decoders and the DCC decoders. Atfirst glance it appears LocoFi decoders are $100 to $150 and DCC decoders are $60 to $125.The wifi in the LocoFi making the decoder more complex.One plus for DCC is that there are a lot of track accessories that can be controlled via the DCCsystem. For example turnout slow motion machine with built-in DCC and track signal lamps DCC controllable.There are also track reversing loop power modules for DCC which automatically reversing polarity inreversing loops.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2025, 03:49:58 am
content: Hi Mark,LocoFi has everything on a small pcb that goes in the loco. Speed control, lights and sound is controlled with that. The motor is fed from the pcb. the power is taken from the track at full continuous 12 volts (anything 12-24 volts). The only criteria is that it needs clean DC. Any shorting of power external to the loco has no effect on it (as long as the motor is intact), it will simply stop running. In DCC, the voltage on the track is controlled by the external controller and it can be damaged if there is a short. That includes the control unit and the power supply itself. I have also observed that people complaining about the DCC chips getting blown up for various reasons. Like you said DCC has more things that it can control. But for a simplified system LocoFi works well. You can also do consisting with LocoFi. All control is on a free app.The guy who designed this system lives a few miles away from me in another nearby city and I met him at a train show recently. After speaking with him at length, I felt very positive about the whole thing. In fact, he is coming to see my layout sometime this weekend.The pricing at the moment is $120 + shipping or free shipping for orders over some minimum purchase. I will put a link below:https://www.wifimodelrailroad.com/They are improving this at the moment and I like the personal contact. The support guys are very fast in communicating.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2025, 11:53:47 am
content: Quote from: andy3055 on September 06, 2025, 03:39:53 amI have a PCB that would use the very nice STM32F411 microcontroller, a proper brushless motor driver and has a bunch of protection circuits built in. I looked at a few DCC controllers, and it's usually some old 8 or 16 bit micro with a bunch of FETs. They seem to lack basic protections against overvoltage, inductive kickback or even overcurrent. They don't use any ICs from the last 20 years, unless it's some bolted on audio chip to do sound DCC.I'm not surprised that they die all the time. Hobbyists all seem to just accept that these circuits die, and buy a new one. It could be something simple like a derailment or driving across a turnout that's not pushed together correctly, and the DCC decoder dies. I mean it's good for the business, right?If only I would have time to assemble and code, I would finish up that project.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2025, 04:58:20 pm
content: Interesting.This is the first I'm hearing of the DCC decoders being fragile.I watch a lot of YouTube train videos on a regular basis of them building and operating their layouts. I vaguely remember one modeler stating they added some short-circuit protection module to the power supply. They also break their layouts into power circuits so that if their is a short it doesn't stop the entire layout.All of the model railroad manufactures have jumped on the DCC bandwagon. Good or bad.You can not buy a loco that does not have DCC or is DCC ready.Anything else will be on the fringes playing catch-up with DCC.I'm not using DCC because I wanted better slow speed performance and I started designing the electronics long before DCC was available. I also had ideas where part of the layout would be automated, running trains where operator(s) could run a train amongst the programmed train schedules. A large operating session when you don't have enough operators for each train. But my layout is falling far short of that goal.I started designing back in the 80s with my Apple II, then looked at a hardware solution, and gave it up for 25 years when I discovered a USB module with a PIC16F877A micro. I dug out my old layout benchwork (just bare 1"x4" frame woodwork at that time) and started fresh. Now it's a mix of 8-bit MCUs with a laptop doing the heavy lifting. The laptop gives me the flexibility to customize most of the operation. (My recent speed step profiling I posted about for example.) It has its pitfalls and challenges.I actually finished the hardware only design with PWM using discrete logic chips. It would have been a massive build though.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2025, 05:07:06 pm
content: For the curious, here is the hardware only design for just one track blockto generate PWM power to the track. This would have been repeated for each block needed.It would have been driven from my Apple II.A quick edit:- Looking at this again, I believe that pins 1 and 15 should be switched on the '157 2-to-1 data selectors.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2025, 06:29:55 pm
content: A small farm update. Just finished the last building for the farm (the smoke house).There just isn't any room for the chicken house, spring house and three car shed.I bought a few covered hopper cars and my static grass just arrived today.Now we'll see if I have a green thumb...

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2025, 02:46:36 am
content: Very nice indeed. Where is the outhouse?

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2025, 12:37:39 pm
content: An old photo from a different angle:I should remake it with the door open and a customer inside...My cousin always had the door open so she could look at the meadow.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2025, 12:30:49 pm
content: I don't intend to start making videos.However, I think another video from a different point of view is needed.How many cars can we push in reverse without derailing?Sorry for all the clicks.I didn't know the camera was picking up the encoder switch on the throttle.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2025, 09:24:43 pm
content: Great! I am waiting to see some greenery that will add more details.