hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
TV in Bedrom - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jarleiceman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2013, 08:22:31 pm
content: HeiI have a problem, I have an ALTIBOX PRV, ALTIBOX ROUTER, PHILIPS TV 55" (2013) 3D...and then I have a Philips TV in my bedroom...I want to whatch TV in my bedroom,but I dont't want to use Wireless system...too expensive...I know I can use a "splitter" from the ALTIBOX PVR (HDMI)and just turn off my TV in the livingroom......But here is the kick: I want too use a cable With a RC-reciver in the bedroom so I can change channel on the ALTIBOX PVR-Box in bed.So, where do I conect this cable in the ALTIBOX PVR-Box...? Can I just parallell-couple it on the Box RC-reciver-diode...and where can I get this kind of cable...?I know I can use my Android too use on my TV...but not on the ALTIBOX PVR-Box...From the man in the Northjarleiceman

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2013, 08:27:00 pm
content: How many different places are you going to post this?

author: jarleiceman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2013, 08:30:43 pm
content: Im sorry I didnt think it came to the right Place....

author: Thor-Arne
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 11, 2013, 09:16:20 pm
content: What you need is a infrared extender for the remote and that hdmi splitter.Just google it.
keyboard mislabel, or misinterpret? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Krinkleneck
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2013, 01:05:03 am
content: Long story short I am skipping around right now on the internet looking at datasheets, and I surfed one up for my keyboard. I don't want to take anything apart, or even move my keyboard. Why is pin one labeled date... I'm thinking that's a typo for data, but I am not quite sure.here is the websitehttp://www.datasheetarchive.com/dl/Datasheets-SL3/DSASL0050129.pdfMaybe I put this in the wrong section, but this didn't fit my usual posts.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2013, 01:42:53 am
content: yeah. it is supposed to be data.and your question is ?

author: Krinkleneck
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2013, 01:44:53 am
content: that's really it...
Blood pressure monitor teardown - Hartmann HG160 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 03:38:13 pm
content: >>> Photos here. <<<There is probably a dead MCU. This blood pressure monitor was manufactured in 1999. It was found in a trash bin. There was no accessories.

author: electronics man
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 04:48:22 pm
content: it seems very simple. I would like to see more photos

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 04:57:52 pm
content: Most likely is the cuff wore out, and a new one was more expensive than the replacement meter.I see how the sensor works now, it is a capacitive sensor responding to the inflation of a bladder against a spring or diaphragm, using a CMOS oscillator to get the pressure to frequency conversion, probably at around 200kHz.I have a wrist unit that will soon be photos and parts, just not repeatable enough for any use.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 06:44:05 pm
content: Well, it cannot be turned on. It does not work. There is a MCU failure, probably.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2013, 08:36:22 pm
content: The pressure sensor seems to be still OK. Even the air pump works.
Pace MBT-200 pinout and mods - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kittenfight
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 11:51:18 am
content: Anyone here have the pinout for the Pace MBT-200 desoldering station? I've pretty (almost) much figured it out except for one. Pin 5 activates the vacuum function when shorted to ground), pin 4 is ground, pin 3 carries the 24 VAC output, and the last one, Pin 1...I don't really have an idea at all. There could be two things -- either it 'grounds' the tip or it controls the 24v output. Pins 2 and 6 are not occupied - they are for Sensatemp (MBT-250?) control only, as far as I know.Will post more details as soon as I get off work.
UK Sky 2TB WiFi Boxes - 10 Pin I/O Pinout needed - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Clint
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 11:30:36 am
content: Does anyone know where I can get the pinouts for the 10 Pin Mini Din Plug on the new Sky Boxes ?

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2013, 09:06:34 pm
content: i don`t know the pinout,but if you`re wanting to watch tv in other rooms with one of the new sky boxes you`ll need a link modulator.http://www.satbuyer.co.uk/global-io-link-modulator-tvlink-p219.htmlSky sell them on their accessories page for £25

author: Clint
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2013, 09:08:19 pm
content: I want to make one, actually I only need the remote signal shoved up my coax, but Ill guess Ill need to do a tear down and work out the signals, only issue is I kind of failed the EEV rules as I already turned it on.

author: Clint
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2013, 09:09:01 pm
content: Oh did I mention Sky are a bunch of F***wits !!!!!!!!!!!!!

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2013, 09:22:44 pm
content: Quote from: Clint on November 09, 2013, 09:09:01 pmYes they are.If you call cutomer support and threaten to leave you might be able to squeeze one of those global io boxes out of them.

author: Clint
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2013, 09:42:19 pm
content: And there is another problem, currently I have 2 TV's and apparently the signal isn't strong enough and especially if the coax is quite long, anyway I cant wait 2 weeks until they think they will have stock again.

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2013, 10:02:17 pm
content: you could try a signal amplifier ,but it shouldnt be used with cable less than 30 metres .http://www.satbuyer.co.uk/global-io-link-modulator-tvlink-p219.html

author: Clint
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2013, 10:07:32 pm
content: I dont think the signal is the main issue its the low power in the 9v line, but I am not sure without having one.Its going to be quicker to make one to suit my needs.

author: urbis
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 08, 2013, 10:19:39 pm
content: Can you keep us up to date if you work this out?I'm not sure the modulator is internal, I have a feeling it's actually built into the IO Link box.
Quick teardown: NI GPIB-232CV-A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2013, 03:33:50 am
content: Not the most exciting teardown in the world, but I wanted to investigate whether it would be easy to modify, so I had to (don't turn it on!) take it apart. Here's a quickteardown of a National Instruments GPIB-232CV-AGPIB to RS-232 adapter for anybody who is interested.

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2013, 11:21:06 am
content: It's amazing NI would use all that circuitry, in a device that can only talk to one target.Btw, do this search on ebay: hp 59401aA HP-IB bus system analyzer, plenty of them around. Old fashioned, but cool.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2013, 02:04:03 pm
content: Yeah. The ASIC in particular seems to be huge overkill for just pushing data around. GPIB isn'tthatcomplicated.But it is nice that the whole thing is pretty much ready to be repurposed. The ROM is an OTP 27C256 - I was hoping that it would be pin-compatible with the 28C256 EEPROM, but the bastards swapped VPP/WE and A14.Shouldn't be hard to make it fit, though. Not sure whether I want to do that or just throw in an AVR. On one hand, I like the idea of keeping the hardware unmodified; on the other hand, it's a frickin' GPIB converter from around 2000, not a priceless antique, and I could get the firmware written much faster on a mega328 with which I'm familiar...The 59401A definitely looks cool. Anything with a bank of binary input switches on the front panel immediately gains cool points...But I think this will be one of the very few times I can look at a piece of test equipment and say "nope, I don't need this!"
Will Metcal SDC tips fit the MFR-1350 station with MFR-H5-DS hand piece? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: London Lad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2013, 08:10:54 pm
content: Hi allDoes anyone know if the Metcal SDC tips fit the MFR-1350 de-soldering station with MFR-H5-DS hand piece?I'm thinking of getting one but have rather a lot of SDC tipsThanks

author: London Lad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2013, 11:37:09 pm
content: For anyone who cares the answer is no :-)
Where to get odd-size Hakko desoldering nozzles for non US users? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: all_repair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2013, 03:31:47 am
content: I am able to get the standard desoldering nozzles in Asia at a reasonable rate, but not A1393, A1395 and A1396.Tequipment.net rate is good, but I am not sure I need US$300 worth of nozzles and did not know the shipping fee they would charge. I wonder where to get these in Asia?I bought others from China but could not find them selling the A1393, A1395 and A1396, I cannot be 101% sure the standard nozzles I bought are genuine but they do have the lifetime as the genuine, and of course, much prettier price. So fake or clone recommendations are more than welcome, I am not a Hakko collector .

author: Co6aka
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 30, 2013, 08:10:49 pm
content: Bunch of 'em listed on eBay, but all seem to be USA sellers. Anyway, at least ask 'em how much to ship to you.

author: all_repair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2013, 02:43:03 pm
content: Thanks for your reply, Tequipment.net up export amount to usd400 on its email reply but with no shipping rate info. And going through their checkout, they asked for close to USD100 for the lower courier fee. I gone with an Amazon shop that shipped to my US forwarding so I could bundle back with my other Amazon buys. That seems to the best rate so far.TE Flir e4 is a good deal after asking them to price match others.
mod microscope binocular to trinocular - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sensor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 08:33:12 am
content: Hello good morning to the whole forum...I am new here... I am interested to electronics and mechanics... I would want to exchange opinions and projects and suggestions... I have in mind to modify my microscope stereo binocular..someone of you to knowledge of projects or prototypes of binocular conversion to trinocular? is it a change possible conversion that it could work? who can help me for this?

author: kc9qvl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 09:41:43 pm
content: It could be done on that microscope. Adding the prisms and beam splitter and fabricating the mounts exactly very hard to do without milling equipment.I would either get an eyepiece camera or get a usb microscope and mount it to the side of scope body.How do you handle the short working height of that scope?
Smoking Hotair - Maxtra 8786D - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: hobbit666
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2013, 01:23:36 pm
content: Should the hotair side of the station smoke on first use? Or should I open it and check connectors etc?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 27, 2013, 10:14:12 pm
content: It might do that if the were left an oil residues. How much smoke, how soon it stopped to do that?

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 03:34:11 am
content: If it is less than this smoke, then you're ok. This is my rule of thumb.

author: quarros
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 09:01:41 am
content: Quote from: codeboy2k on November 28, 2013, 03:34:11 amThat's quite a misty day...

author: XOIIO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 10:45:12 am
content: Probably fine, my hot air gun (bigger paint stripper type) had white oily smoke come out the first time I used it. If it's black or plastic-y smelling smoke you might have a problem.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 12:09:02 pm
content: If it's just a thin film of dirt/protective coating oil/etc. then the smoke should disappear after a little use. If you don't want to be blowing it over your electronics then take it outside and run it for a bit. The smell of melting plastic/burning electronics suggests something else, however.

author: hobbit666
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 08:45:35 am
content: Yeah going to run it outside for a while and see what happens
Old calculators from the 60's and 70's teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Kaptein QK
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 08:58:52 pm
content: I got my clammy hands on two old electronic calculators. They where heading for the dumpster.Calculator No.1:This one is made where I live (Bergen, Norway) by Jørgen S. Lien. They where world-leading on mechanical calculators in the 30's to 60's. They keeled over in 1971 because they could not compete with the newer electronic calculators.I guess my calculator was their last attempt to fix this, because the date-code on the 7400 IC's is late 1970. And the construction looks like it is a prototype. The amount of bodge-wires in this is impressive!Here are the pictures:http://www.flickr.com/photos/90579103@N08/sets/72157638089199446/Calculator No.2:This one is even older. It has only transistors, diodes and resistors. Lots of them! No IC's!I do not know more than that is made in Bulgaria. I can not enter its name into a search. Maybe some of you can do that?Note the tin whiskers! And the magnetic core memory!Here are the pictures:http://www.flickr.com/photos/90579103@N08/sets/72157638089286243/

author: nova1200
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 09:28:43 pm
content: Great photos!The second calculator appears to be model Elka 22 (google says???? 22 == office equipment Silistra Elka 22). Here's one link:http://www.teclas.org/maquina.php?mm=C247.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 09:42:43 pm
content: About second onehttp://rk86.com/frolov/elka22.htm

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 09:45:32 pm
content: Wonderful! Thanks for sharing.

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 10:54:26 pm
content: The first calc has some nice nixie tubes .

author: Six_Shooter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 11:09:29 pm
content: The memory in the 2nd one is analog porn. I love it.

author: ivaylo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2013, 02:26:38 am
content: Silistra is the city where the ELKAs (ELectronic KAlculator) were produced. This guy seems to have a good collection -http://clockwiser.wordpress.com/2012/01/10/elka-hist/.I used to have an Elka 131 as a student in high school.

author: staxquad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 05:09:49 am
content: core memory, so 360

author: Kaptein QK
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 08:16:46 am
content: Thanks for ID'ing the second calculator!Any comments about the bodge-wires in the first one?At least they where serious about getting them neatly laid out and in 90 degrees angles!

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 08:31:01 am
content: oh man.. I really love nixie tube frequency counters...If I had those calculators they would be gutted and turned into frequency counters ... great nixie display and driver boards already made up !
Camera for soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: silent
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2013, 06:46:27 pm
content: Hello.I am looking for something that can be a cheaper replacement of this device:http://optelec.com/en_US/product/electronic-low-vision/clearnote-plus. I have a very bad vision and I'm unable to play with electronics without some magnification. The specialized device is unaffordable for average person in Poland, so I want to use a standard camera with a stand/arm as a "digital magnifier" for electronics.The cam would need the following functionality:- live video output without user interface (digital preferred) to connect the cam to the LCD monitor- enable/disable auto-focus button- optics good enough for small SMDs or possibility of mounting external macro lens- possibility of connecting a power supply to avoid battery switching during workDoes anyone know any model of digital camera/camcorder that could do that?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 27, 2013, 10:09:45 pm
content: By soldering, do you mean soldering under the camera? If yes, forget about the camera (no depth perception, lag), only a good optical microscope will work. Just inspecting is a different story.

author: silent
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2013, 11:04:22 pm
content: I have already done this under the camera. This is possible.The depth might be an issue, but in my vision disorder I can't see three-dimensional (stereo blindness), so It won't make a big difference and I'm used to it ;-).About the lag - that's what I am afraid of. In older, analogue cameras there was none (or not noticeable), but I don't know how does it looks in cams with digital out.

author: kc9qvl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2013, 11:29:47 pm
content: Have you seen dave's video on this?

author: denneyaa
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 12:17:32 am
content: I use an elmo presenter. It doesn't have much for lag and it also has composite and VGA for the one that I have at least. Plus you can pick one up for a really good price.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 12:40:24 am
content: Did you consider something like this:http://www.lssproducts.com/product/2x-OptiVISOR-Headset-Magnifier/optivisorI'm pretty sure they can be found much cheaper.

author: glano
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 01:11:01 am
content: I use this and it's great/cheap:http://www.frys.com/product/7300574?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PGI have been considering a camera setup though so I'd like to see a cheap solution for that
Microchip HT46R47 or 46R47 wanted - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: vehf277
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 02:37:08 pm
content: Hi guys!Please give me an advice where to buy HT46R47 or 46R47 microchip in Brooklyn or Manhattan, NY.Thank you in advance.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2013, 07:43:11 am
content: Microchip don't make those... are they PIC clones of some sort?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 27, 2013, 03:34:14 pm
content: This is Chinese Holtek cheapie: ebay, aliexpress. But what's for? Do you understand that it is OTP microcontroller?

author: baljemmett
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 27, 2013, 06:43:36 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on November 27, 2013, 07:43:11 amI think that's microchip as in IC, rather than Microchip as in the IC manufacturer...
My Kapton tape stinks (literally) - finding a good brand? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheBorg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2013, 08:47:02 pm
content: I bought a roll of el-primo-cheapo Kapton tape off of Fleabay, and it arrived, and let me tell you, this stuff smells nasty. I can't even really describe it- it's kind of like cookie dough mixed in with vinegar apple cider. Nasty. And what's more, it really starts to smell during rework (hot air), once the tape hits 150+ degrees C than it just gives off a puff of smoke and smells really bad (adhesive melting?).So is this normal? I am trying to do a lot more hot air rework, and am doing temps at around 400C to get solder to melt quickly (if you have advice on this too, that would be great), and I've read Kapton tape is good to 250C, so I might be exceeding the tapes heat range. however, the tape isn't like disintegrating with rework, but it just smells nasty. If it's not normal can anyone recommend a good brand of tape to get, and possibly list a source? (I am also looking for good fluxes, so if it's an online store that carries both that would be awesome).Just wondering since I am a newb, is this normal behavior?

author: philpem
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2013, 09:05:25 pm
content: Sounds like you've been had... proper Kapton tape doesn't do that. I've taken it to 300C with a hot air gun and it loosened and peeled away, but besides that didn't do much.If you can find it, 3M 5413 is the proverbial mutt's nuts. Farnell's own Multicomp brand Kapton tape isn't bad either.

author: TheBorg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2013, 09:18:44 pm
content: Quote from: philpem on December 08, 2013, 09:05:25 pmI'm positive I've been had. It was only $2 after all,not a whole lot of loss. Probably cost just as much to ship it for the guyI should say that my budget is probably $10-15 for a decent roll (1/2"?). Looking at the 3M stuff, its a bit out of that, but it might be worth it if it's the "mutt's nuts". Never heard that expression

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 08, 2013, 10:43:12 pm
content: I have 4 different width rolls of kapton tape from ebay. None of them smells while heating, adhesive isn't as good as on branded ones but overall they are OK.

author: TheBorg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2013, 11:02:57 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on December 08, 2013, 10:43:12 pmIf you remember, who is the seller?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 01:12:58 am
content: I have got good stuff fromthese guysat what seemed to be reasonable prices.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 05:41:29 am
content: Kaptop is good for up to 400C. You might've gotten some other plastic instead.
Warton Metals Ltd chemicals. Anyone tried? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2013, 09:32:15 am
content: Hi,Has anyone tried soldering chemicals (particularily flux) from Warton Metals? Seems like one of the Polish soldering equipment retailers introduced their products. They are UK-based company, but I don't know if they are doing manufacturing there, or in China as everyone else.They seem kind of pricey (although a bit below genuine Kester or Amtech from reputable supplier). For comparison a flux pen: Warton Metals one is 7.5€, Amtech around 10€ and Chemtronics ~12-15€.http://www.warton-metals.co.uk/flux-pens.html
NEST Thermostat Teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ViciousPest
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 08:02:05 pm
content: Hello.New user to the forum (joined on E4 thread) but subscribe to a Dave and other's (mikes, mjorton, etc...) youtube channel. Instead of posting in the new user's thread I figured I would start one. What better way to introduce yourself than a teardown !!!The teardown is on the NEST smart thermostat. This is still a work in progress and Im currently working on getting x-loader working over usb to boot a custom U-Boot. If I got something wrong let me knowBlog post about teardown

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2013, 12:12:12 pm
content: A thermostat that has wireless, a motion sensor, and more processing power and memory than some of my desktop computers? To me, that's just creepy...

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 05:31:31 pm
content: Now the NSA can know whether you prefer hot or old, so when they interrogate you, they can make the roo uncomfortable!

author: ViciousPest
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 04:33:47 am
content: Quote from: echen1024 on November 17, 2013, 05:31:31 pmConsidering its a little linux box in there. It can do a lot more than that.

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 04:36:17 am
content: Track your very move comes to mind...
Solder spool accessory for Hakko FH200 iron holder? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: creyc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2013, 02:11:37 am
content: I've got a Hakko FH200 iron holder which is a pretty standard model from hakko and looks like this:I'm not sure what the slots on the side are officially for, as there's no mentioned of them in the literature, but it stands to reason they could holder a spool of solder for a nice and compact soldering setup, like this:Of course I need a better spindle than a soldering tip, and more importantly some way of locking the spindle in place in the slot so the spool doesn't fall down and rest against the hinged back plate (sleep sensor) as it currently is in the picture. I'm thinking something can be rigged up using that empty screw hole in the stand..But there's probably an accessory already available for this exact use I'm just overlooking, right?

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2013, 04:17:54 am
content: Looks like there's room to put a small nut and bolt tightened in the slot below the spindle on each side to adjust the height.You could use a piece of 1/4 inch threaded rod with a couple of nuts for the actual spindle.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2013, 12:40:18 pm
content: I wouldn't want my iron dripping hot solder and whatever else onto the fresh roll.

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2013, 02:52:01 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on November 25, 2013, 12:40:18 pmThat's true. If he really wants to use it that way I'd also add a piece of sheet metal over the spool to protect it. Looks like there's enough holes to use if he fabricates one. I'd try to leave the sides of the spool clear though so it would be easier to wind it back up.

author: creyc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2013, 12:03:43 am
content: Piece of threaded rod and a few nuts and it's working a treat!I'm not super concerned with splatter, as I never put the iron up wet without a dip in the cleaner first. If it becomes an issue I'll bend up some sheet metal but there's a good +1.5cm gap from the spool to the tip, at least.
Is a SodrTek by Pace (ST25) station any good? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheBorg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 03:01:24 am
content: Been looking to upgrade my current soldering iron to something more versatile with more tips. Right now I'm using a generic one from Make:, and it's been good, but I wonder sometimes about the quality of it. I'd really like to find something under $50 USD, which is hard to get a decent station. I've been looking around eBay a bit hoping for a good deal and saw a SodrTek by Pace station, model ST25. I know Pace is a good brand, but do you think it would be a worthwhile upgrade from my generic station? They are both analog temperature controlled, so I'm not getting a whole lot more in terms of functionality, but I'm getting a lot bigger userbase and compatible accessories... Thoughts?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 03:53:14 am
content: Should be a fine station, so long as it has all the parts you need (base + iron at a minimum), and works of course.Also note, that Pace sells tips in 5 packs, and sell for ~$40 - 50 range per pack (based on a PS-90 iron). Not sure about eBay sources for tips (if anyone breaks them up to sell singles for example).

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 04:13:57 am
content: Update on tips:Plato (Techspray), offer equivalent tips for the PS90 and others (pdf datasheet for PS-90 tips). Reasonably priced, based on what I saw on MCM Electronics (~$5-6 per).

author: TheBorg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 04:44:48 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on November 17, 2013, 04:13:57 amAwesome, thanks! That's better than I expected, I was seeing some higher costs for individual tips elsewhere. Strangely enough though they were only $25 for 5 on eBay. Not bad at all!

author: notsob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 04:50:28 am
content: mouser also handle plato tips

author: willb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2013, 06:50:50 am
content: I have an ST25 with a PS90 iron, and I love it. It's rock solid. It's going to be quote the upgrade from a generic iron. You won't regret.
DSE T-2260 Soldering Station replacement tips source. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2013, 12:29:19 am
content: I originally posted this in the thread " DSE T2000 T2200 Soldering stations." but since it may be more useful (?) and searchable as a thread of its own.I have the DSE T-2260 soldering stationI believe the Xytronic LF-1000 is the original model but I am not sure and Xytronic-usa although they replied quickly and were as helpful as I suppose I have a right to expect, they could not confirm this. Tips were quoted as about $US6 and $US75 for shipping.I have ordered some tips from this Ebay shop.http://stores.ebay.com.au/wonderco-buy79?_trksid=p2047675.l2563I ordered this particular sethttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1set-Soldering-Tip-XY-401-402-403-404-405-406-168-3C-168-3CD-258-XYTRONIC-/130832086166?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e76333496They arrived in just one week by registered post. In the pictures below my original tip is on the right, next to the matching tip from the set. They look identical as far as I can tell.
Howto get the Raspbian kernel installed with headers (solution): - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2013, 06:02:05 pm
content: The raspberry Pi Foundation doesn't have/make downloadable header packages for their linux kernels :-(This means that making working modules for the kernel you are running is cubersome , and right now defective.The solution is to use a kernel from (made by)www.raspbian.org, "Foundation does NOT use the kernels from them but build their own" wo. any kernel header packages.This post (issue) , was the one hinting that the Raspbian kernel isn't the one - The foundtion useshttps://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/issues/382https://bugs.launchpad.net/raspbian/+bug/1228643And this one might be the reason i can't get it to work , it seems like the foundation even have FSCK'ed up somewhere in the "Kludge" we need to do, in order get the right symbols for the kernel currently used on the RasPI.https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/issues/387Howto get the Raspian kernel installed with headers:See :http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=66&t=57401Entry by : by plugwash » Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:22 pmI use a standard "Foundation Noobs" as the base boot ....http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloadsThen apt-get the Raspian.org kernel below.I use an unmodified sources.list (from the Noobs raspian)$ cat /etc/apt/sources.listdebhttp://mirrordirector.raspbian.org/raspbian/wheezy main contrib non-free rpiWe get the Raspbian package "metapackage linux kernel" , that has corresponding headers.1: sudo apt-get update2: sudo apt-get install linux-image-rpi-rpfv3: In boot/config.txt append this at end of file , or it will boot the default "Foundation kernel"************* SNIP ***********************# Set params for "raspbian debian-style kernel" boot#kernel=vmlinuz-3.2.0-4-rpi#initramfs initrd.img-3.2.0-4-rpi followkernelkernel=vmlinuz-3.6-trunk-rpiinitramfs initrd.img-3.6-trunk-rpi followkernel************* SNIP ***********************4: reboot5: login6: apt-get install linux-headers-rpi-rpfvDone Kernel stuff/Bingo
[Q] What are the differences between Yihua (YH) 898D, 898D+ and 898BD+ (2in1) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rbid
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 10:00:30 am
content: Hello,I'm relatively new here.I plan to get a 2in1 Soldering station although I may not really need for SMD rework, but it is a nice tool for heat shrinking.Inspired by Dave's eevblog video on anAtten 858D Hot Air Rework Review, together with the soldering tutorials (Part1,Part2andPart3), I decided to get both, and after looking on ebay.I encountered that there are a bunch of 2in1 stations. Most of the cheap ones are OEM from a company called YiHua, therefore I went to look for the cheap original (if there is one).The candidates is a YH898D, but from the forums and more expensive ones are the YH898D+and YH898BD+.Now, what are the differences among the different versions?Thanks in advance.--- Ricky Marek.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 11:37:15 pm
content: Not sure of the internal differences Yihua seems to have had some problems with people copying "their" design though. Perhaps the + was added to prevent this for a while. The 898BD+ model has no function button and instead buttons to control both temps at once.

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2013, 06:11:46 am
content: Funny how Yihua, a company offering imitated 936 soldering stations (originally Hakko), complains about imitations (from Atten?).
Multimeter Amprobe broken help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: funnel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 11, 2013, 05:02:31 pm
content: I need help figuring out what is wrong with my multimeter. It's an Amprobe 240. I don't know how it happened exatcly but the knob was acting weird for a few weeks with the screen going on and off when selecting the DC function. You can see in the attached picture the burnt trace I cleaned but didn't help. Without measuring anything the multimeter is showing 1.052 V DC, 25.86 kOhm, and 144.1 uA. I also get wrong readings for resistors using the relative button.Anybody knows how to find out what's wrong? Can I fix it or is the main chip toast?Thanks.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2013, 05:26:42 pm
content: Check the PTC right by the volt jack. It should be around 1 kohm.Check your burnt trace to make sure it is not conductive as perhttp://mrmodemhead.com/blog/ideal-carbon-footprint/

author: funnel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 11, 2013, 05:51:59 pm
content: Wow. Thank you. I scraped the carbon with an exacto knife and now it works perfectly. Thank you.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2013, 06:45:38 pm
content: I'm glad you got it working, but all credit/kudo should go to modemhead for taking the time to document and photograph the repair for everyone's benefit.
JIS Screwdrivers. Are JIS Slotted Drivers Any Different Then Regular Slots? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Dawn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 03:53:37 pm
content: I own a set of JIS crosspoints from a subminiture set to standard handle 00-2 that truly make a difference working especially on older Japanese products.I see the two main importers in the states, Hozan and Vessel also carry metric width slotted screwdrivers that conform to JIS standards. I don't believe that I've ever worked on anything Japanese that used slotted screws.Besides the metric width, are JIS slots any different then SAE type? I assume the grind is flat and if there is a different taper, it would probably be insignificant over using an SAE size. Perhaps there is use of JIS slots in other disciplines, but I have never seen that in electronics. I guess the same goes for metric width slots. I never have seen any company tout that they are necessary for working on Euro equipment, if only for the width matching a Euro slot head for complete engagement over an SAE.
Yihua 882D+ - Problems - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 07:19:52 pm
content: After fixing my scope, with great help from this forum, my solderingstation broke down same dayPicture of the thing here:http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/YIHUA-882D-Brushless-fan-rework-station/401349_488178717.htmlThe hot-air part works fine - But when turning on the regular iron, the display just says "S-E", and the iron does not heat up.I can't find a manual for this damn chinese thing. Btw. usually it works fine, very fast heat-up, etc. I was actually happy with it.Any clues?

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 07:46:26 pm
content: Yihua claims 1 year warranty. Here's link to product support page...http://yihua-gz.com/support.asp?id=12

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 08:07:23 pm
content: I think it's more then a year old.. But i'll try to send them an email. Maybe thay will answer it, but i doubt.

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 11:25:01 pm
content: Maybe a bit obvious but have you checked the continuity of the element ?

author: sync
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 02:39:34 am
content: Quote from: cs.dk on November 06, 2013, 07:19:52 pmOn my XY-tronic station S-E stands for Sensor-Error. Check the temperature sensor in the handle.

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 04:14:22 am
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on November 06, 2013, 11:25:01 pmNot yet, but will do when i come home from work.Quote from: sync on November 07, 2013, 02:39:34 amThat makes sense. I'll check it out later.

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 10, 2013, 09:32:01 am
content: Looks like spareparts are needed.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2013, 10:01:15 am
content: Drop test failed there, or you need to use some Copaslip on the new element to prevent it seizing on the element. It will smoke for a few minutes on the first power up but will be fine.
Schick Hydro 5 razor teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: reagle
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 10, 2013, 04:02:39 am
content: Another arguably useless consumer bit taken apart and analyzed:http://kuzyatech.com/schick-hydro-5-razor-teardownA good example of multiplexing a metric buttload of things to three pins left on a PIC10

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2013, 12:42:56 pm
content: So the blades aren't driven by the motor, but the whole thing just vibrates? That doesn't sound very effective.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2013, 01:17:50 pm
content: It's not meant to be effective. Energizer simply bought Schick and Wilkinson and other brands to find new products to put their batteries in and sell more stuff.QuoteSame reason why Gillette uses Duracell batteries in their razors, they bought it :http://www.nytimes.com/1996/09/13/business/gillette-to-buy-duracell-for-7-billion.htmlQuoteI was gifted one of those Gillette razors, it's basically just a battery, a button, a led and a vibrating motor. Not sure if there's a microcontroller to control turn on-off but I doubt it.

author: reagle
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 10, 2013, 02:22:34 pm
content: I didn't realize they are owned by a battery company. Sounds like a good way to make more moneyYes, the whole thing just shakes, what a gimmick!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2013, 02:54:16 pm
content: That is why I have electric shavers and buy dispoable razors. Electric costs little to run, and the disposable gives me the same shave as the pack of expensive blades. Not surprising seeing as the blades are the same made on the same line, and the plastic mount is the same as the premium one just welded to the handle. The pack of 5 costs the same as a single unit of the "premium" one, and lasts just as long as well.Funny thing is the Phillips razor I have has a power supply that will charge the internal cells from an input voltage that starts at 12VDC and stops at 250VAC. Not mentioned in the manual, but I looked up the chip as it died. My solution was to simply bypass the whole lot ( chip is unobtanium and the board is more than I would pay for the complete unit) and place a current limiting resistor and use a 12V wall wart as a charger. I also replaced the 2 very old NiCd cells with higher capacity RS cells I had spare, now it runs a lot longer between charges, though now I just have to charge it for 12 hours from empty, and the charge state indicator just blinks as it communicates with the charger for battery status.

author: reagle
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 11, 2013, 01:00:15 pm
content: My write-up got posted on Adafruit bloghttp://www.adafruit.com/blog/2013/11/11/schick-hydro-5-razor-teardown/
[TEARDOWN] Trust XpertTouch 2.1 Speaker Set - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: niekproductions
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 06:23:48 pm
content: This is a (partly failed) teardown of myXpertTouch speaker set. I've had it for just over a year. It was a great set for the money, but recently it started acting up. The capacitive touch volume adjustment doesn't save the volume anymore, so everytime I reboot it, It starts back at halfway. I've also started getting noise on the sattelites. This might be fixable with a ground loop isolator.So here's the main unit:On the back is the power switch, the audio input, sattelite speaker output, headphone output and subwoofer.After unscrewing the front (the screw holes start at the back so I needed a fairly long driver) I was able to pop off the front:You can see the main amplifier board, transformer and 20W subwoofer. I broke one of the connectors trying to get the red glue off, so I had to replace it.Here's the main board:It's attached to the case through this plastic plateThis is where the fail comes into play. There are four 6-pin amplifier ICs (2 for the sattelites and two for the subwoofer). On top of them are these heatsinks that are soldered to the board. I tried getting them off, but I wasn't getting anywhere with my $20 soldering station.I was however able to see this IC on the bottom of the board:This is the PT2313(datsheet). It's a very neat little audio processing IC. It's got 3 inputs with volume, treble and bass control and it can be connected to up to 4 speakers.This IC is being driven over I2C by the front capacitive touch board:Sadly it's glued in place. I assume that the underside just has the capsense traces. The IC label is also scraped off *boo* so no luck reverse engineering that.Feel free to ask any questions

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 12:41:47 pm
content: Could that be aAT42QT1110?

author: niekproductions
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 02:05:59 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on November 07, 2013, 12:41:47 pmThat is a neat IC, but the PT2313 can only be driven over I2C.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 02:29:13 pm
content: The power amps are not four ics with 6 pins each.The chips have 16 pins arranged as follows3 normal pins , a double wide pin counting as two , and three more normal pinsGiving 8 pins per side for a total of 16Most likely a TEA2025 type device.The double wide pins are for heat transfer. You stick on a specially formed heatsink and during soldering the tabs of the heatsinks solder to the double wide pins.Other chips that used to do that : TBA810 and TBA 800 audio amps.There have been a few of these.
PS4 Teardown Video - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: innot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 06:56:00 pm
content: In the spirit of "don't turn it on -- take it apart" and what I think is a cool move Sony has published a teardown video of the PS4, done by on of the engineers.http://www.wired.com/gamelife/2013/11/playstation4-teardown-videoThe video is of course light on details but the main board sure looks sleek

author: quarros
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 07:14:53 pm
content: Quote from: innot on November 07, 2013, 06:56:00 pmI just hope that the lack of visible discrete parts doesn't mean they started building it into the PCB layers.

author: innot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 07:57:07 pm
content: Quote from: quarros on November 07, 2013, 07:14:53 pmWell the discretes are there, but Sony went for the microscopic SMD size 0Nothing-0EvenLess

author: Alex
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 08:23:15 pm
content: The more advanced the console, the closer to a PC it comes. That should tell you something.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 08:50:14 pm
content: That is one well engineered board. Built down to the pennies. I just love the power supply section, it is so well laid out. Thumbs up for it.

author: Jonnax
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 11:26:34 pm
content: Here's a high resolution shot of the PCB:

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 11:31:34 pm
content: Looks are most definitely deceiving:I worked there for years, not far from the truth..

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2013, 03:02:13 am
content: Quote from: innot on November 07, 2013, 06:56:00 pmDave should get a pair of those white gloves.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2013, 03:45:06 am
content: Quote from: Alex on November 07, 2013, 08:23:15 pmIt looks nothing like a PC motherboard. Original Xbox 1 looked like a PC (and in some sense it was one).This sony board looks extremely sexy and clean. Its cleaner than most laptops, only Macs come close.Level of integration is staggering.compare to first ps3ps3 was about 1/3 power, 1/3 silicon, 2/9 bare pcb, 1/9 discretesps4 is 4/9 bare pcb, 1/3 power, 2/9 silicon, 1/9 discretesIm surprised they didnt consolidate embedded SoC inside the southbridge to make it essentially 2 ICs + ram. Afaik AMD had some embedded ARM core in southbridges ever since series 700 (>3 generations now).

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2013, 02:24:51 am
content: Interesting to see Sony still using CXDxxxx part numbers. They've been doing that for at least 20+ years.QuoteAnd no doubt even harder to troubleshoot... is it really cost that much just to put a bloody silkscreen on?At least Sony doesn't cover everything with opaque soldermask.
Logitech G27 - pedal connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Vojta
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 09, 2013, 06:16:29 pm
content: Hi guys,I have a problem with this thing. I had to replace the connector for the pedals, but none of the pinouts I found of the web worked (please read the whole storyhere. Is there any owner of a G27 that could take a multimeter and find out the real pinout for me?Thanks.