hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Philips uses part exceeding max rating. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 04:54:19 am
content: I was repairing a Philips 40'' flat screen TV when noticed a few switching regulators rated at 20V absolute max were powered from a 21V rail (I measured and confirmed the supply voltage was 21V). What is the deal with this, Philips?

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 05:14:47 am
content: Yep, it is very common, and manufacturers like Philips don't do that on a whim, they actually talk to the part manufacturer and get real ratings. Manufacturer may provide higher failure rate or shortened life time, and the customer has to accept it.

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 05:35:55 am
content: Now we talking planned obsolescence

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 05:38:18 am
content: Quote from: Bud on May 22, 2019, 05:35:55 amYep. Some even reputable LED light bulb manufacturers use 85 C capacitors derated for 105 C operation. Their life span is reduced considerably, but it looks like it is about the same as the life span of a light bulb. From what I've seen LEDs die first anyway. So while this approach seems sketchy, it really is not, it is just balancing things out.

author: magic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 10:02:43 am
content: I wonder if it could be a matter of binning, so that if you order the same part number from an ordinary distributor you may get a part which will fail in such out-of-spec conditions?

author: Mr. Scram
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 10:12:31 am
content: Quote from: Bud on May 22, 2019, 04:54:19 amCompanies like Philips can and will do their own verification. Using something outside of the specifications isn't an issue if you've done the homework and understand what you're doing. The manufacturer establishes a baseline performance, but it's very possible that the specific scenario the part is used in leaves a little more room. Dave has done a video on this too. Binning would be another option. Some companies bin regular parts to eek out the higher performing parts which are sold at a premium.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 10:56:57 am
content: There's amm5z15bzener diode there in the schematic, won't that cut the voltage down to around 15v ?Also i would think traces being thin maybe there's some voltage drop due to trace resistance etc etcMaybe Phillips ordered a custom version which can handle higher voltages?
Philips Wake-up light HF3510 Touch screen not working - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Sören_Marodören
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2024, 03:07:08 pm
content: Hi,A friend came to me with a 8-9 year old Philip HF3510 Wake-up light that didn't work properly.The problem was that the four Touch screen buttons on the front of the lamp (-, Menu, Select and +) didn't work properly.The light react when touching them by generating a klick sound, but nothing more happens. (You set time, alarm etc via these buttons.)After disassembling the lamp a few of the larger electrolytic capacitors was found with bulging cans. (2200 µF/6.3V, 470 µF/10V)These capacitors had very low capacitance when measuring them. No leakage on the board.I replaced them with new capacitors and tested if it solved the problem.Unfortunately it didn't fully solve it, but it become a bit better. Now, I could start the light (with the fault still there) turn it off and start it again in a few seconds, and the light worked.My interpretation on this is that there is a start-up issue probably related to the voltage generationI then decided to replace all Electrolytic capacitors.When replacing them I measured the capacitance on the old, but could not see any with too low capacitance.(I can't measure ESR. Maybe a too high ESR can cause this problem...)After re-caping I tested the light and now it worked.Maybe this is a common problem on these lamps.I must say that I'm impressed by the design of this lamp. There are so many special design parts that I haven't seen anywhere else.And so many parts that are put together by screws. It must have cost a lot in money and time designing it.Hats off, Philips. (But you could have used better quality caps...)
Philips wakeup light broken speaker, AMP broken? +unknown IC mystery. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tjeulink
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2020, 01:58:42 pm
content: Hi there! i am trying to repair an philips wakupe light. the lamp dimming was broken before, it could only remain powered on. eventually i managed to repair it by replacing the TRIAC. but in the meantime i broke the audio it seems. my guess is that i either shorted the speaker pins for a long while, or accidently hooked up the transformer to the speaker pins and the speaker to the power pins. the transformer is 9Vac. When i turn it on i can hear the speaker pop, but nothing else. everything else about hte wakeup light works fine, it indicates that it should be making sound but it doesn't. Bellow some pictures!This is the chip i suspect is broken, its a APA0711 if i'm not mistaken.here'sa link to its spec sheet.This is a picture of the entire PCB where i point at the speaker pins.Top side of PCB pointing at speaker pins:This is a picture of the mystery IC, i think its what goes into the APA0711, i am not sure though.Here is some pictures of the mystery chip under different lighting and with some whiteboard marker to see if i can get anything visable that way, works somewhat but i can't seem to find anything about it.Does anyone know what the best way to diagnose this would be? or is this in your opinion and open and shut case? thanks for your time!

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2020, 07:05:58 pm
content: PT2257, Princeton, electronic volume control IC, dual channel, 3V - 10V, SOP-8:http://www.princeton.com.tw/Portals/0/Product/PT2257.pdf

author: tjeulink
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2020, 08:06:58 pm
content: Quote from: fzabkar on June 10, 2020, 07:05:58 pmAh thanks that would make sense!

author: MrPeter
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 24, 2022, 05:16:18 pm
content: Hi There.I got kind of same issue with PCB E101438. After power lock down, it can start up. No power at all, I have check the fuse, the 4 diodes, the small transformer, but it is all dead. I don't what it could be?
Philips Xitanium led driver - adding dimming option? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: widlokm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2024, 10:23:50 am
content: Hello,I acquired nice Philips led laps for the workshop, that are powered from philips xitanium power supply (pictures included). While there are many versions of the driver mine are unfortunately not "dimmable" - the only control method is SimpleSet interface. I am wondering if there is an option to add dimming function.Driver can be set by the simpleset over a wide range, so most of the hardware is there. It is very likely that dimming and other controls are on the small PCB (control.jpg) that is also connected to simleset antenna. Does anybody know this drivers? Or maybe someone has a dimmable version of similar driver and can send me some pictures of the boards? Control PCB has quite a lot of unconnected pins, so it is possible that some of them are used for dimming.Best regards,Michael W.

author: widlokm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2024, 08:55:06 pm
content: In case someone is interested:Small "add-on" board has ATtiny44 micro-controller with RFID Flash memory. 3 cpu pins are used to handle RFID flash (I2C + busy line), one analog input measures output driver voltage, and one pin has PWM signal that controls output current. This PWM is connected to R-C low pass filter and seems to be completely open-loop control. Only short circuit and open output is sensed (by voltage measure line) and PWM is reduced to "minimal" value. All other pins are either unconnected or connected to some test-points.It should be rather easy to write new firmware for the ATtiny using free pins as up/down control or something, keeping of course open/short output protection. The only thing is that CPU is not isolated form mains, so quite a lot of care is needed.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2024, 07:34:35 pm
content: Only got 75W dimmable drivers butnot with simpleset.One is 0-10V input, other one is Dali or simple Switch (short press on/off, long press dim up/down).They are not galvanically isolated so outputs are mains connected.If interested pm me.
Philips/Fluke PM 2525 - Replace Battery - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Fuwo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 10, 2019, 08:44:31 am
content: Hello everyone, I guess I need a bit of an input.I recently got myself a Philips PM 2525 (my first bench top DMM, will arrive the next few days), and as you do with old tech you go in and check.Next to greasing the selector wheel gears (motorized selector inside), I also wanna replace the old BR 2/3a 3V Litium battery.As this battery (most likely) holds the calibration, a simple solder out and in won't do.So my question to the experienced voltheads:Would it do to "just" have the system on mains and operating to keep the cal while changing, or will I need to look for points on the board to solder some leads on to hook it up to my bench psu and keep it alive over that while replacing the Bat?Sorry if this might be a stupid question, I did amplifier recaps, repairs and such stuff, but I never before worked on a cricuit that depended on staying alive while doing so.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2019, 10:23:53 am
content: you could supply the meter and do the change, but you need to have an isolated iron, some people use butane based solder irons, some use an isolation xformer, the iron in some station are 120-220 earth grounded, most of the time its supposed to be fine.For the calibration holding i dont know, i would personally use an butane iron since i have one.

author: Fuwo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 10, 2019, 01:07:32 pm
content: Thanks for the answer coromonadalix,guess I'll try it with a butan iron, they don't seem to cost that much.
Philips/Fluke PM3394B Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sarahMCML
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2022, 05:44:47 pm
content: Hi,Firstly, apologies for posting this on the end of an old post from February this year. I realised later that probably nobody would read it, so decided to post it here as a new topic.I have the same problem as Norbert67 had, that is, channels 1/3 deflecting way UP! screen in my case, when switching to Digital Mode. Except my PM3394B hasn't recovered.It fails Self Calibration after about a minute, and comes up with a "Calibration 101" error message at the bottom of the screen. Of course, there is no mention of this error in the Service Manual.I have 2 questions for the experts here:1) Did Philips/Fluke ever produce a separate Fault Finding Manual for this range of scopes?2) Which chip produces the fault, because it's not too obvious to me going through the maintenance manual, probing the board hasn't revealed anything, and the in-built test routines of the DAC's that I've looked at seem to be fine!Many thanks,Sarah.
Phillips 32PFL4305/V7 LCD TV Troubleshooting  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Gassan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2019, 07:34:54 pm
content: I'm stuck with this Phillips 32PFL4305/V7 TV.I know that both the power supply and the inverter board are working properly.What I'm not sure about are the main board and the T-CON board.The main board is not sending any voltage to the T-CON board through the LVDS cable. So my suspect is the main board.Any suggestions?

author: keymaster
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2019, 05:24:02 pm
content: service manual(https://elektrotanya.com/philips_24pfl5505_24pfl4505_32pfl4305_32pfl3305_42pfl3505_chassis_tcl_ms19c_lcd_tv.pdf/download.html#dl)follow the power rail .remove to t-con and see what happen to the power rails .
Phillips BMD4350 repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: PaulVK2PAD
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 05, 2025, 08:48:46 pm
content: Hi everyone,Seems my old account no longer works, it has been a few years since I last posted.Anyways, I have a philips BDM4350 monitor that stopped working suddenly. I have tracked it down to the LED driver for the backlight not working, I get a PWM signal to its input but no output. I checked the FET that it drives and it seems okay, however my issue is that the part nu,mber on the LED driver doesn't come up with any usable results in google. It is a OZ9902MGN but there are only similar parts shown online but not direct matches. Any idea how I proceed from here?

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2025, 08:37:21 am
content: Found nothing about an OZ9902MHowever there is an OZ9902Cout there with same package. Might be the same thing. I suggest you check the application diagram against your board to see of it can fit.See page 21 of the PDF (marked as page 22 on the sheet)

author: PaulVK2PAD
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 07, 2025, 09:44:46 pm
content: Thanks for the link.It should work I think, I don't have a schematic for the board unfortunately as Philips don't want to share that.All I can do is try it and see, worst case is I destroy an already faulty board.Cheers,Paul
Phillips PM-3214 Oscilloscope Power Supply Issue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jwd
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 07, 2020, 07:38:24 pm
content: Can anyone come up with a schematic for the HV oscillator mentioned at "https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/philips-pm-3216-oscilloscope/". I have the same issue as described by boffin, but it's not the trim pot. I've recapped the electrolytics. Unloaded the +/- 180v supply droops to to 170V, others OK. When the power supply board is attached to the scope all supplies droop as described by boffin. So, I'm suspecting the HV winding of the transformer as mentioned by oldway. Any help appreciated.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2020, 09:18:00 pm
content: It's same power supply as the PM3217. Service manual here:http://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkowypotwor/Philips/pm3217%20pm3217u.pdfI've refurbed a few of these and some other Philips kit. There's probably another capacitor gone in the scope. ALL the axial electrolytics should be treated as suspect in the entire unit.Make sure you replace the RIFA capacitor in the rear of the unit under the fibreglass shield as well. They explode and make a right mess.

author: jwd
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 07, 2020, 10:56:32 pm
content: bd139 - Thanks for the reply,and also the warning on the mains safety cap. I hope you are right about a leaky cap somewhere else in the scope. That would be a lot easier fix!
Phillips PM2523 Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Ionforbes
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2020, 05:46:05 pm
content: So bought a broken Phillips PM2523 DMM thinking it would be an easy fix. It's only 3.5 digits and is 40 years old, but I got it for the gorgeous aesthetics.Anyway I turned itt on and the display is compeletely blank, except for a '+' symbol when in the VDC range. The caps inside all seem fine but I replaced the ones involved in power supply anyway. Voltage rails and reference all measured ok with pretty much no ripple. I caan hear relays clicking when I turn it on so I assume all the analog stuff works. Either way the dead display should be from the digital stuff.My main suspicion is the HEF4739 IC but it shows both signs of life and death; the 'scan' outputs are all at solid 2.5V with no swittching, yet the '+' LED coming on with the DC range suggests the chip isn't completely dead. I replaced the 7404 hex inverter as the scan outputs go through it, but it didn't help. Probing the 'clock in' and 'clock out' pins shows no activity, so maybe the '+' LED only comes on since it doesn't need the clock but the 'scan' outputs do. This could mean ceramic cap C133 is shorted but I cannot for the life of me find it on the board! It's there on the layout in the service manual but not in the actual PCB!Anyway I'm pretty much clueless at this point so any second opinion would be greatly appreciated!Edit: Added schematic of display bits

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2020, 07:15:34 pm
content: There should be a clock on pin 25 otherwise the IC will not do anything. I'm not sure why the cap seems to be missing, but the PCB is also different from the one in the manual so maybe it is another revision. There is no datasheet to be found for either HEF4739, CD4739 or GZF1200D which seem to be compatible, and also the IC itself looks like hard to get. Maybe if you are lucky it's just the clock circuit and you can apply an external clock, but the frequency of that is also a mystery without a datasheet. I'd try something like 100KHz for a start and see if it makes any difference.

author: meandeev
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2020, 08:41:55 pm
content: As somebody wrote in a german forum:take a look inhttp://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkowypotwor/Philips/pm5134.pdfthere you will find a block diagram, the pinout and a description of the function of the HEF4739P

author: Ionforbes
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2020, 09:24:06 pm
content: Ok so I made a replacement clock with and found the 'shift out' pin wouldd output an intermittent squarewave. The display digits also light up occasionally but to be honest I don't think I'll bother continuing. This meter just isn't worth it

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2020, 09:45:20 pm
content: Note the blue PHILIPS cap - those are likely to fail, so you should check it.
Phillips PM3217 50MHz Oscilloscope Repair No.2 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: dazz1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2022, 11:15:55 pm
content: HiSome time ago I wrote up the re-capping of a PM3217 scope. Thanks the the generosity of Tautech, I now have a PM3217 No.2.The No.2 old scope is also ex-Navy. It is much younger than the No.1 PM3217. Chip dates indicate 1986 vintage. I also suspect No.2 has spent most of its time aboard a ship. The blue filter on the CRT looks like new. It would have spent most of its time locked up in an air-conditioned, temperature & humidity controlled, filtered air environment. The perfect environment for preserving test equipment. It would have seen relatively little use compared to a scope sitting on a lap bench.Since leaving the service, it has been stored in a shed, and it appears that it may have gained some cosmetic blemishes. Inside the scope, it is immaculate. No dust, mold or corrosion.

author: dazz1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2022, 11:21:31 pm
content: HiSo before applying power, I did some routine inspections, specifically including the Rifa capacitor. Well known for being small explosive devices that release lots of nasty magic smoke.One of the problems with capacitors is that they can fail with no visible sign that they are no good. I really need a ESR meter to do in-circuit testing of caps. If I had an ESR meter, I would have used it on the Rifa cap to measure if it was still OK or not.As a precaution, I did change the Rifa cap for a nice yellow one that is not made by Rifa.

author: dazz1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2022, 11:24:12 pm
content: HiSo after taking a close look at all of the old school analog goodness, I applied power.At first, nothing happened, then something did.It worked.

author: dazz1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2022, 11:30:25 pm
content: HiAt present I am soak testing it to flush out all of the old electrons that have had nothing to do for too many years.The tube is sharp and bright. There is no buzzing or other warning signs.Initial twiddling of the knobs and switches indicate some are a little scratchy but that is already clearing.A quick play with the delayed time base hints at a problem, but I need to do some more functional testing to confirm if there is a fault. Even if there is a fault, I know the parts will be available to fix it. That is the really nice thing about this stuff is that it is almost eternal.

author: dazz1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2022, 03:54:20 am
content: HiWell that was disappointing. A quick spray with some alcohol and the delayed time base features started working again, just as I was breaking out the long and detailed Service Manual.All of the scratchy switches and knobs now work like they just left the factory. Thirty six years later, this scope is still doing the job it was built for.
Philpis PE1535 power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: maher471
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2022, 01:59:35 pm
content: Hello,just a little question about the Philips power supply PE1535, why the negative power supply realized with VZ113, V114 and V115 that produce -10v are connected to the positive output X2

author: AndersJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2022, 02:17:51 pm
content: Perhaps to help reaching 0V output.Disconnect the -10V and see what happens.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2022, 03:23:41 pm
content: humI think it could be an error or its okay in the schematic ?? but the surrent sense resistor is in the negative rail, could be okayYes it help to negate the regulator minimal output voltage around 1.2 - 1.5 volts, the lm723 by design doesn't go down to zero voltsOne of my old design use this scheme ... i have a perfect zero volt ...Normally the negative voltage is added in the voltage feedback potentiometer circuit, some google search on some projects will show you that

author: maher471
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2022, 03:57:48 pm
content: link to original manual :http://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkowypotwor/Philips/PE1535%20-%20PE1545.pdf

author: blackdog
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2022, 07:08:01 pm
content: Hi maher471,The negative power suply is primarily intended as a sort of a "current source" to improve the dynamic behavior and to compensate for the current required for the power section to operate properly to achieve "0V" output voltage.Kind regards,Bram

author: maher471
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2022, 08:56:08 pm
content: So if I understand correctly :1- This negative power supply acts as a load at the output of the power supply, but what is the limit of this method?2- What are the advantages and disadvantages of this method

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2022, 01:52:15 am
content: Its to get an ov output as explained earlier, the lm723 can't go down to zero volts unless you use this kind of trick,the limit is this application, for the rest you calculate the voltage potentiometer and the voltage feedback parts values to suit your needs
Phonostage - high pitch sound  - amplifer fixed - opamp upgrade - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: TechnicsHiFiFan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 10, 2019, 09:37:11 pm
content: Hellofrom AustraliaLong story short. My Technics SU-V9, stopped working, then i slipped the probe and took out thyristors and sent 54v through the 17v line. I recapped , checked transistors replaced some to modern alternatives, opamps servo and speaker impedance to TI5532. New modern trimpots Bourns.Amp had been running like a dream, and then one morning after a week or so no use, fired it back to a pop , then re-fire up, this time high pitch sound, much worse on phono. The board input board was rather in bad shape with a few fixes on it - in short, with phono decouping caps removed and phono not connected, amplifer has been fine in extensive testing.I suspect maybe the OPA1642 could have been oscillating or some solder had come use or a part failed. I was very lucky there was a V9 being parted on ebay, its all working fine on the new board with old opamp? would the LME49720 suit this circuit or LME49860? I was thinking of Auricap or wima for the bipolar caps?

author: TechnicsHiFiFan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 13, 2019, 08:44:18 pm
content: update , went with LME49860, seemed a bit bright at first but I think this is because the MP110 cartridge is 5mv output and the 1mv setting is more for lower output cartridges. So far so good, not sure if the oscillation will return, but for sure it was to do with the phonostage.The capacitors i used with the V9 rebuild, were Panasonic FR, Nichicon PW, and for the bipolar Panasonic SU
phyCORE-MPC5200B-tiny read/write onboard Flash - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: george_a
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 22, 2021, 12:31:20 pm
content: Hi guys!Firstly I would like to say WOW to this forum and thank you in advance for any amount of time you spend on my silly questions! Apologies for the long post I hope its not TL/DR.I have a few phyCORE-MPC5200B-tiny boards where the FLASH chip (PC28F128P33BF60A) gets corrupted and the board stops working (https://www.phytec.eu/support/knowledge-database/legacy-products/32-bit-modules/32-bit-modules/phycore-powerpc-modules/phycore-mpc5200b-tiny/).The manufacturer is totally arrogant and REFUSES to offer any kind of help and just asks private questions like in what project the board is used etc. ignoring our emails.To be honest I also do not know where the boards are used. The customer had me sign an NDA and asked me to either rework the CPU (reball) or investigate what else is wrong with it. He then tests the boards himself.We discovered that if we swap the Flash chip from a working board to a faulty one (those who are not fixed by reballing - some are) the faulty one then works.I would like to find a way to copy the contents of a working flash to a corrupted one... the documentation refers to Abatron BDI 2000 for jtag connection. Unfortunately I only have a USB Blaster and Urjtag with which I cant manage to connect. I also have RT809F and TL866II programmers.Is there another cost effective solution to Abatron? Could USB blaster work but I am doing something wrong? [or some other programmer directly on the BGA-64balls flash IC by desoldering it first?]Any help is greatly appreciated!BR,George
PICkit 4 shorting target board VTG power to GND - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2022, 02:01:52 pm
content: Has anyone seen a PICkit4 with its VTG pin semi-shorted to GND? (~0.4V on diode reading both directions between VTG and GND)My PICkit 4 seems to have been damaged in this way.It's pulling the target 5V rail down to 1V and putting the targets lab psu into current limit whenever it's connected.Windows is still detecting it fine (USB working etc). It seems like something to do with target power has blown.I'm hoping someone has seen this before and knows which part dies in this way. It would save me time figuring it out myself.Thanks

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2022, 02:32:14 pm
content: Odds are you've blown one of the level translating buffers U19 to U23 which I believe are powered from VTG. Sorry I don't have part numbers and there sees to be a lack of freely available PICkit 4 schematics. It *may* use the same 74LVC1T45 buffers as the PICkit 3. Either use a thermal camera or frost the target ICSP connector end of the board with freezer spray and see which part defrosts the quickest when you attempt to apply external target power, and *hope* its one of the buffers as that's an easy fix!However unless you are on a very tight deadline, its probably a better idea to contact Microchip Support and see what they can do for you. In the past their policy for in-support debuggers and programmers with a confirmed hardware fault has generally been to ship an advance replacement and only bill you if you fail to return the failed unit.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2022, 02:53:23 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on May 04, 2022, 02:32:14 pmJust checked them, they all measure the same, and it's unlikely they're all blown considering I was only using 1 data channel (UPDI for AVR)

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2022, 02:54:14 pm
content: Don't suppose anyone has a schematic for it?
PICkit-5 Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ercankoclar
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 19, 2025, 12:07:34 pm
content: Hello,I bought a PICkit 5 two days ago, and everything was working fine. However, while testing a circuit, a short circuit occurred, and the connection between the PICkit and the PIC was lost.After that, the PICkit 5 could no longer connect to the PIC. I updated its firmware twice, but the result did not change.I keep getting the following error:"Error: Operation failed because the measured Vpp voltage failed to reach the requested Vpp voltage value within the timeout period."When I try to power the PIC externally, I get a different error:"PIC not recognized 0x00."What could be the issue, and how can I fix this?Thanks in advance for your help!

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2025, 02:02:36 pm
content: you need to chack any device / protection on the 5v usb line going thru the pic for the not recognized ... if not the mcu may have toatedand the other error is the target vcc detection, and or the pickit suplied voltage, on some versions the pickit can supply target supply ... but for sure limited in currentor you had some reverse voltage gone in reversehard to know, if you have flashed the mcu did it go well, sucessful message ?

author: ercankoclar
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 19, 2025, 04:56:33 pm
content: Hello,I can successfully program the PIC using a separate programmer, but the PICKit does not recognize the PIC. Even when I supply external voltage, it still gives an error.The PICKit's blue light stays on continuously, but when I try to connect to the PIC, it shows an error. Normally, there is no voltage reading on the VPP pin.It was working before, but after a short circuit in the circuit, the connection was lost, and it never connected again. Most likely, there is physical damage, but there is no visibly burned component.

author: eurgenca
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2025, 06:05:49 am
content: Check this.https://www.edaboard.com/threads/repair-pickit3-5.410551/

author: Kwakerman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2025, 06:48:59 pm
content: Can't you contact the seller and see if they will replace / refund it. Shouldn't be failing after 2 days!

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2025, 07:13:36 pm
content: So annoying that they're on V5 and still don't know how to protect programmer pins adequately. Still, it has a fancy case (without the pinouts printed on it) and Bluetooth...
Picoscope with odd channel issue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2019, 01:58:21 am
content: I bought a Picoscope on eBay - a 3203D with 2 channels. Channel A was having an odd issue, but I am thinking maybe I fixed it. I am concerned that maybe it isn't fixed so I wanted to get opinions on it based on what the waveform looked like.The issue presented itself when I turned on the AWG with a square wave, 1kHz, 1.6V amplitude. Channel B is fine. Connected with a BNC cable between CH.A and AWG. BNC connector even locked would switch between the failed signal and the correct signal if you would twist the angle of the cable. I also tested it by just putting a jumper wire in the signal pin from the AWG to CH.A and the issue would either be present or not present. This is where it is odd, if I bent the BNC cable so that it was failing before removing it, then the failure was shown on the jumper, but if I bent the BNC cable the other way where it was fine, then the jumper would be fine.The BNC port on the PCB is not loose at all, very solid with 4 heavily soldered grounds. I did reheat the signal pin on the PCB, but I am not so sure this fixed it. It might have improved it a small bit, but I think the problem was still present. Then I decided to clean up all the left over flux that you sometimes see on PTH ports on devices with some IPA. There was quite a bit of flux. Once I cleaned that off, the problem seems to be gone for good, I can't make it come back. Still, I wonder if it was the flux that was the issue. It is humid today. Part of me was really thinking there was some sort of issue inside the BNC connector itself. Does any of this make sense with what the CH.A picture shows?What I really find odd is that the amplitude of CH.A. is wrong when it was messed up. I'm not sure how strong the output signal is on the AWG, so I wonder what relationship that has to whatever was going on with CH.A.Measuring the rise/fall times with the Leo pulser I have shows CHA rise=3.731, fall=3.889, avg 350/avg=91.9 MHz, CHB rise=3.822, fall=3.972, avg 360/avg=89.8 MHz. Not bad for a 50 MHz model.
Picture of Advantest R3267/R3273 Tracking Generator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: chick0n
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2024, 08:26:38 am
content: Hallo,I repaired a R3273 TG-Module. I tweaked some pots on the underside of the module, without taking a photo before...So im looking for a photo of the bottom side of the TG Module. Especially of the positions of the miniature pots....The photo is what the module looks like, from the top side.Thanks!
Picture of Agilent 54855a ACQ board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: super_electron
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2023, 01:11:51 am
content: I would really appreciate it if someone post a picture of the 54855a ACQ board jumper setting for the jumpers shown in the picture.

author: Jwalling
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 30, 2023, 08:42:01 am
content: Trying to upgrade it, right?You just need to add a 10K resistor...Have fun!

author: super_electron
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2023, 09:49:21 pm
content: It is already a 54855A 6GHz@ 20GS/S. Not sure what other upgrades are possible ?

author: ARF
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2023, 12:59:13 pm
content: I guess only "enhanced bandwidth" to 7GHz software option and 32Mpt for some boards.
Piezo push button bath tub panel - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: PiotrMisiuna
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 07:51:41 pm
content: Recently acquired hot tub, leaks checked, pumps checked, main board checked. starting sequence checked. control panel....bump2 of 4 push buttons do not react. initially thought it is just a broken connection but after trying to short them and getting no result I de-potted the board (sticky jelly).Not springy membrane switches, they look like piezzo-electric discs. Any idea how to search for thing like this? are they universal or do I need some specific value? can they be bypassed?
Piezoelectric Effect in CPU power circuit ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 01:48:44 am
content: Does anyone understand this?https://www.dell.com/support/article/en-au/sln80281/the-solid-state-drive-ssd-on-my-laptop-makes-a-strange-squeal-buzzing-noise?lang=enQuote

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 01:58:46 am
content: What to not understand. It's known for a long time that class II/III ceramic capacitors may sing under certain circumstances. They basically act as piezo buzzer when ripple current flows through them. The most common occurrence is in PC graphics cards under 3D load. When there is ripple current of audible frequency flowing through MLCC, you may hear it.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 02:02:31 am
content: https://product.tdk.com/en/contact/faq/31_singing_capacitors_piezoelectric_effect.pdf

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 02:21:50 am
content: Doh, I forgot about capacitors. In fact one of my first power supply builds had a "singing ceramic capacitor", and it was a linear, dual tracking topology which I copied from the application circuit in an NS datasheet.Thanks.

author: EEEnthusiast
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 04:43:28 am
content: Even power inductors make this sound due to magneto-striction and other effects. I had run into a problem on one of my designs that required me to change the inductor and the switching frequency to get the sound below reasonable levels.An inductor is nothing but a speaker without the diaphragm...

author: magic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 09:24:10 am
content: Quote from: fzabkar on May 25, 2020, 01:48:44 amMisleading gibberish but roughly true. The noise is caused by periodically varying voltage across ceramic caps. It doesn't happen when the CPU is in C3 state, it happens when the CPU periodically changes C states or P states (possibly including turbo boost). There is also some inter-core dependence, in that usually all cores run from the same voltage and it has to be the highest voltage requested by any core.You can play with it using tools like c2ctl or k10ctl. The noise goes away if you configure equal voltage on all P states and perhaps disable some of the deep C states (or keep one core at 100%).It's been awhile, I don't remember details.editI also think that no resonance is required, it will work at any frequency. That being said, equal excursion at lower frequency yields lower SPL from any acoustic transducer, so you typically only hear the highest frequencies. As for the real content of the noise, it's likely 1kHz and tons of its harmonics because many things in software are scheduled with millisecond granularity.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 05:22:17 pm
content: I was focusing on the statement that "a specific voltage is applied to these solid state components", which implies that the semis are singing. Even more confusing is that the symptom is a noisy SSD.
Pink single lead of a 8594e power supply unknown  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: herculeseev
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 03, 2022, 11:27:58 pm
content: Hi guys,iam trying to repair a 8594e agilent/ HPThat analyzer has a problem in its if section, because all rbw above 30khz not working. They only give a flat high response, without any signs of the connected generator signal.Below and above 30khz rbw the signal appears to be ok.I suspect one of the rbw boards (A11 or A13) might be faulty. Trying to follow the service manual. Next step injection of 21.4 MHz to A15J8 Pin22.Since the signals with small rbw are ok, the rf frontend should be healthy.Now i need to feature out which rbw board is responsible for which rbw setting. Any hints are welcome and appreciated.. 😄But first of all I am confuse about a pink single cable which comes from the power supply. There is also a jack with 5 or 6 leads coming from the supply which are connected to a board. But that pink line has its own jack and its not connected, and i can't discover where it belongs to.Measuring result was exactly 0 Volts, and the service manual gives me no hint.Any ideas how it should plugged in? On other pictures i can see that it disappears betweens the power supply enclosure and CRT enclosure towards Mainboard.RegardsThomas

author: MarkL
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 04, 2022, 08:16:57 pm
content: Quote from: herculeseev on March 03, 2022, 11:27:58 pmDo you mean W51 coming out of the right-hand side of the power supply?If we're talking about the same thing, the wire is violet on my 8595E and it has a 3pin housing on the end which is not connected to anything. According to the Assembly-Level Repair Manual, it supplies -24V to the A7 analog control board on 8592L and 8593E analyzers. (I believe it's used to extend the YIG tuning range for those models.)A photo would be helpful.On the BW problem, note that the BW5 signal is correlated to your problem. Table 5-1 (pg. 260) shows it should be at +14.0V for BW >= 0.1MHz and at -1.0V for BW <= 30kHz where you report it as working. That could be a clue.But then you also say "Below and above 30khz rbw the signal appears to be ok.". Which is it?
Pinout/Datasheet for 1002DS 16-pin DIP - HP Z800 (Correction) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Lorenzo_1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2020, 02:18:54 pm
content: Corrected - this is a 16-pin DIP of course!I've been working on and off on a faulty HP Z800 850W computer power supply. I have one unit with an intermittent fault which starts up OK and one unit that's failed completely in use. After much comparison of working and non-working units, powered and unpowered, I've traced the fault as far as the pins of a 16-pin DIP on the secondary side marked 1002DS and "9G1 6". Looks to be monitoring 5V supply, which is working OK on both circuits. IC has no obvious manufacturer's mark. I think it might be an STM1002DS, described as for voltage supervision & comparator. Much searching failed to turn up a datasheet - and some suggestions STM might not have released one. The part is obsolete but still purchasable. Can anyone help with a datasheet and/or a pinout/likely pinout for this IC?Attached are a couple of images showing the relevant parts of the front and back of this board.
pioneer blueray burner - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2022, 10:17:29 pm
content: Hi all,i have a bluuray burner model BDR-209EBK,I notice when i connect it the led flashes green on the front panell,but it doesent get detected by win 7 64 ultimat also the disk doesent spin,its brought untested from ebay,this is the second one like this,i need to know if its my sata bus or the drive,i assumed as soon as it had power if you put a disk in it should at least spin the motor?,i dont want to send it back if the fault is with my pc,any ideas? TIA.

author: max-bit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2022, 04:52:58 am
content: You can have fun and bury in it, maybe some simple element has fallen (fuse condernsator etc) but usually these devices are not repairable (if some IC has fallen)
Pioneer Cassette Player - Wanted VU Meter Pioneer CT-S99RW display - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: max-bit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2022, 01:20:58 pm
content: Wanted display (LED line) VU MeterFor PioneerCT-S99WR or T-9090WRTape Deck (essentially identical)It is there (or rather it was because the IC IR2E28 was damaged) but it is on the PCB and flooded so the module is not repairableThe module may have been in other tape recorders, it consists of 2 LEDs that are constantly on and 7 controlled ones, 3 yellow and 4 red.According to the catalog in the service manual, it has the designationRAW-213Marking on the PCB itselfLT1149F6193and H.E.C HI3A V

author: max-bit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2022, 05:00:27 am
content: Please do not send a link to the auction with the integrated circuit, because how am I supposed to solder it there?Danke
Pioneer CT W501R not reverse playing... eats tape - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Spartan1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 31, 2025, 08:32:47 am
content: Hi folksMy pioneer cassette deck I just bought, plays in normal mode, but in reverse mode, eats my tapes.Tape is turning in the same direction, when in reverse play more, I assume that is correct or not?Thanks in advance.

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2025, 07:07:51 pm
content: We used to refer to those pieces of shit as the "Pioneer Eat A Tape System" and they truly suck!!! There are two capstans and two pinch rollers. EVERYTHING must be perfectly clean and the belts must be good as new!!! The pinch rollers must be squeaky clean and have proper pressure. A friend of mine had bought a brand new Elton John cassette and it got eaten the first time he played it. He took some personal pleasure with a croquet mallet and then ran it over a couple of times with a BobCat. Last I knew he 'launched it' with a trebochet about 100 yards during the 'pumpkin chunkin' contest back around November! It'll probably still eat a tape today if given half a chance!!!

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2025, 07:42:13 pm
content: Quote from: Spartan1 on March 31, 2025, 08:32:47 amUhhh... what? I don't understand what "in reverse play more" means.When playing the reverse side, the tape needs to move in the opposite direction compared to the front side. In both cases, both reels need to rotate in the same direction, but the speed of each reel varies throughout playback, as the circumference changes as tape moves from one reel to the other.Was the deck restored before you bought it? If not, there is an extremely high chance that the belts are loose or rotten (literally -- many degrade into black goo). Pinch rollers dry out. Additionally, lubrication may have failed (dried up and sticky), and gears may have cracked. These are the unfortunate realities of old cassette decks.
Pioneer DV-2650 Service manual - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: peo007
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2025, 05:10:36 pm
content: HelloDoes anyone have a service manual for the Pioneer DV-2650(electrical diagram)

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2025, 05:21:27 pm
content: as you may have found, incomplete 2 pages of schematics and it's the S variantis your an S variant ?https://elektrotanya.com/pioneer_rrv2780_dv-2650-s.pdf/download.html#dlsome websites share the same one ....

author: peo007
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2025, 08:13:30 pm
content: HelloIt is not an S variantand I have looked at other web pages, and can't find anything.There is voltage out of the power supply, but it cannot be turned on.
Pioneer KRP-500 FFC Ribbon cables... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: adpachter
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 21, 2019, 09:06:37 am
content: Hey to you all!I am fed up searching for replacement ribbon LVDS cables for this panel. Is not difficult finding manufacturers making these in bulk, but there is just no way of finding the correct cable... Or they are too short, or have too much pins, or the temperature or voltage ratings are wrong...The cables I need are Sumitomo-G AWM 20941 105C 90V VW-1-F, 26pin 0.5mm pins... Lengths in 600mm and 850mm... Or ANYTHING similar haha, as long as it fits and does the jobIs there somebody who can point me in the right direction? Does anybody know how to get hold on these?And another question: Is the "high temperature" rating that important? Or even the Voltage rating? Are weaker cables bond to snap or melt due to high temperatures or too high voltages?Reason of replacing is because the old ones melted in the TVThank you so much in advance!

author: kosomsk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2019, 06:32:32 pm
content: Hi! Temperature & voltage not interesting for you, only pins & pitch. Are cables selling on ebay, it's cheap
Pioneer kuro  guru  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: hawescass
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 06:52:23 am
content: Hi guys thanks for the addI have a pioneer kuro PDP-508aIt has a 2 Blue LED flashing fault codeFailure in IIC Communication with the module microcomputerJust seeing if anyone knows a commom problem for this code trying to work my head around the manual and just can’t get it ( really think I need to print it out trying to look at on a iPhone is nuts 😂😂 )Thanks