hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Agilent U1253B Not Alerting on 120V AC when set to DC volts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2012, 05:07:56 pm
content: Agilent has a ticket in progress for this. Thoughts?

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2012, 05:16:47 pm
content: Why would you expect DCV ranges to indicate AC voltage? Does it give an alert when set to other functions like ohms, continuity or capacitance? If it does, then it should do the same in VDC mode for consistency sake. If it does not, then I don't see why you would expect VDC to warn you about AC voltage. Just set it to AC + DCV if you're interested in both.

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2012, 05:20:40 pm
content: Quote from: alm on May 24, 2012, 05:16:47 pmI get it but hazardous AC voltage can appear unexpectedly in defective or improperly maintained equipment. My 20 year old Beckman HD-153 beeps and gives a lightning indicator with high AC on DC function.It was just something I noticed, but I feel it is significant, and quite possibly could be addressed in firmware.
T-8280 Preheater Upgrades - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Dawn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2012, 07:29:36 am
content: Reading through some of the game board repair forums, it seems that the T-8280 Preheaters have some quality control issues, but are a favored entry level unit. There's talk of relplacing the stock thermocouples and doing some mods on the power supply to increase the spec of these units. I've found a company that offers these units already modded at over double the going price, but haven't found any info on anything besides replacing the thermocouples as a DIY project. Can anyone point me to a source on these mods?
teardown of xtar wp2 II li-ion charger - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2012, 08:02:37 am
content: i disassembled my charger jsut to see whats inside, all chip markings blanked so i have no idea what the manufacturer or part number,tried to desolder the positive terminals but it didnt work, finally managed to pull it out from the plastic casing, 1 poorly seated cap, which almost punctured by the plastic casing and deformed by the leads, i twisted a little back from them cos it was almost shorted

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2012, 05:54:14 pm
content: The layout is really absymal ... they should have made the pcb larger and the box larger if they were to make a layout this size, just look at the topwards capacitor on the topside! It looks like it's gonna commit suicide any moment

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2012, 07:56:19 pm
content: if you notice the capacitor on the second picture you can see its top almost punctured by the plastic due to bad seating, gonna replace all of those chang branded caps on this, smd parts looks like machine assembled but the trough hole, its a mess

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2012, 09:15:09 pm
content: Quote from: M. András on May 17, 2012, 07:56:19 pmHANG ON. Actually i have used Chang caps in my working devices before and it works properly and is alright for 1 year now.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2012, 07:47:10 pm
content: i dont even heard of the brand but it can be good, but that damaged cap will be replaced no matter what

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2012, 04:01:11 am
content: Quote from: M. András on May 18, 2012, 07:47:10 pmJust the damaged ones.
T962 reflow oven - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 05:31:50 pm
content: In a couple of weeks I'll be needing to assemble a few prototype boards, which are currently looking to be about 4x6"/100x150mm in size, so I'm looking for a reflow oven to make things easier.I've seen the T962 mentioned in a few places, and it's within budget, and should work out the box, which is the main selling point at the moment, due to deadlines and lack of time to research/build other options.I've done some searches, and the general concensus is it manages the job but has questionable build quality and some even more questionable translations. I've not found any majorly bad first hand reviews, other than the usual 'it's chinese it's ****' comments in a couple places.So, has anybody got any first hand experience?Cheapest I've found it for is £158 delivered in the UK via ebay.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2012, 06:16:12 pm
content: IMO for prototypes and small runs you're much better with a bog-standard toaster oven, simple power control and a nice big viewing window, and eyeball process control.Less expensive and less likely to incinerate your boards.

author: mc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2012, 06:25:08 pm
content: Toaster Oven!That's the term I was looking for the other night!I did try googling for suitable ovens, but couldn't find anything in the UK that was reasonably priced, so gave up looking :-/Certainly looks like a far cheaper option, and I can work on some kind of automatic controller when time permits.Mike, out of curiousity, while googling for T962 reviews, I stumbled across your site and the stripdown of the bigger version. Was it yours, and how did you ever use it?

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2012, 07:44:37 pm
content: Quote from: mowicu on May 17, 2012, 06:25:08 pmI never really used it - I preferred the visibility of a toaster oven.Toaster ovens aren't as common in the UK as elsewhere but not too hard to find. You want something with heaters top & bottom, a nice clear window and a shelf that doesn't jump when opening and closing the door. Small convection ovens may also be worth a look.Try searching "toaster oven -microwave" on ebay.

author: mc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2012, 08:30:58 pm
content: Googling Toaster Oven brings up plenty options.I can't remember what I tried searching for before, but it only turned up either stupidly expensive ovens, or ones from across the pond or down under.Thanks for the help.
fujicom batteries ?  12X AA , for about 4$ ????  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: eevblogfan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 06:03:14 pm
content: hellonow I am running a test . I am drawing about 106(~ 109) mA , and recording the voltage , in order to check either it's old stock , or any other scam ,I'll post (presumably ) tomorrow the result ( I don't have flukevew cable , I'll post picture of the meter )I'll also chek GP ,duracell etc ( maybe another time , but I'll do it sometime for sure)at the meantime , can someone tell me about the company ?is someone has any experience with the batteries (Ie compared to other manufacturers )thank you in advance !

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 07:00:04 pm
content: It's a HK company so yeah.Whether you get a NOS or not is whether you get lucky or not.I have got old batteries that retain their full voltage but quickly die.So far i only used GP, Duracell and Panasonicso i can tell you duracell is bovine byproduct
Aouye 968A+ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Dawn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 09:24:25 am
content: I really haven't seen much of any reviews or discussions on this updated station that's been out since last year. It looks like they paid attention to the reviews of the original model and updated with a higher 70 watt iron with a smoke absorber and digital temp display. The smoke absorber port doubles as a vacuum tool pickup port. They've also thrown in a set of heating element spares and an assortment of soldering iron tips. It looks like a lot of bang for the money. For a while, they were $139 free shipping with an advance purchase/pre-delivery sale on fleabay. At this price point, there's still no programming functions or integration with a preheater.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 09:32:12 am
content: Hey, it's 139 and to get a built in preheater you would need much more.Why "still no" ?How much do you pay for a station ANYWAY?
What's this? (teardown teaser) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: muvideo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2012, 08:15:24 am
content: Well, for many of you this isn't too difficult, what equipment is this?My face is like this now:

author: Kremmen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2012, 08:59:45 am
content: A scope mainframe by any change? Next to find the timebase to slide into the slot then...OK, take a guess what the attached might be

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2012, 09:26:13 am
content: An insulation resistance meter

author: muvideo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2012, 09:55:06 am
content: Quote from: Kremmen on May 09, 2012, 08:59:45 amIt's not necessary to have that timebase speed, and not easy to use really that bandwidth,but it's soo nice to know that if it's needed...For now it's a broken equipment waiting to be repaired, I hope that the problems are easy fix,because probably it's not simple to find spare pieces.Quote from: Kremmen on May 09, 2012, 08:59:45 amWell, deepheaven beated me on the time,I guess:METRISO 1000D("gossen metrawatt insulation tester" + google images)Fabio.

author: Kremmen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2012, 10:27:41 am
content: Yep, you got it in 1. Metriso 1000 it is.

author: tekfan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2012, 01:55:47 pm
content: That would be a Tektronix R7103 oscilloscope mainframeIt's the rackmount version of the Tek 7104 1GHz mainframe and only has space for one timebase plugin.Great find but be careful not to burn the CRT since it has the MCP accelerator.Also if it's from the late 80's it may have a different readout board that will display slightly different characters on the CRT.Looking forward to the teardown!

author: muvideo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2012, 03:37:54 pm
content: So Kremmen was correctTekfan, simply perfect, when I wrote this:Quoteit was referring to youYou nailed perfectly also the readout, this unitprobably had problems with the readout andmounts the 670-8622 that is different from theone reported in the service manual I have.Thank to TekScopes yahoo group I foundthat this board is used also in the 7934 andthe schematic is in the service manual of the 7934.Fabio.

author: muvideo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2012, 06:12:25 pm
content: I've uploaded a set of photos here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/14336723@N08/sets/72157629647211566/I'll make a post with some details.Fabio.Posted the photos and some details of the problems is this thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/tektronix-r7103-scope-teardown/
Review: AmScope SE303-PZ 10X-20X-30X-60X Electronics Stereo microscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Spikee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2012, 05:03:50 pm
content: SHARP STEREO MICROSCOPE 10X-20X-30X-60X]http://www.ebay.com/itm/200356828998] SHARP STEREO MICROSCOPE 10X-20X-30X-60X
BK Precision 1696 , Who Made Them ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2012, 05:32:19 pm
content: Dave has one on his bench, but not BK Precision and i know BK isn't the one who made them, of course not.So the big question is, who made them?Because i would love to get my hands on such a supply

author: Construct
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2012, 07:30:20 pm
content: Manson 9400 per teardown video here:
About the Hantek LA5034 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: douglas_goodall
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 30, 2012, 01:27:39 am
content: Friends,I purchased a Hantek LA5034, and although it was pricey, I iced the 34 channels.I have had two specific problems with the device.The first problem is that the pod cable provided does not nest well when inserted into the pod.This causes intermittent connection on various signal lines and has resulted in flakey operation.I got around the by using an IDE cable to interface to the pod.The second problem came to light yesterday when my anti-virus software reported that the setup programhad a virus. Specifically, the autorun.inf file called the setup.exe, and I believe that is where the virus becameapparent. I don't know whether it was a false positive, or a real virus.Attempts to communicate with the company have not been very successful. They don't speak english very well.When it is working, I am happy with it, there has been so much trouble though with the pod cable that it has detracted from my overall feeling about the device.
Sleep problem with my ATTEN 858D+ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Mint.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2012, 09:10:01 am
content: I have recently received my ATTEN 858D+ from the mail!On my unit the sleep mode is very dodgy, it doesn't want to work most of the time. I turn it on and it goes to sleep if on the holder, but then I use it for a bit and the sleep mode doesn't want to work anymore and I have to reset the device to get it to work again. What may be the possible causes of this problem?

author: MBY
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2012, 10:12:44 am
content: Are you sure you interpret the behavior right? If the gun is hot and you place it in the holder, the fan will continue to run for a couple of minutes to cool it down. On my unit it can take many seconds, maybe minutes before I see the temp starting to decline. Its probably due to thermal mass and/or the temp sensor location.Or do you mean that the unit _never_ goes to sleep, even after a couple of minutes?

author: Mint.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2012, 10:17:56 am
content: Quote from: MBY on April 24, 2012, 10:12:44 amMy bad! I didn't think that that was a feature. I thought it was a problem with my unit.

author: Chet T16
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2012, 11:30:50 am
content: It won't go into sleep mode until it has cooled to 100 degrees

author: Mint.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2012, 11:34:15 am
content: Quote from: Chet T16 on April 24, 2012, 11:30:50 amYeah I already noticed that, the problem is while it cools down it starts to fry my wall...

author: Chet T16
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2012, 11:35:51 am
content: Quote from: Mint. on April 24, 2012, 11:34:15 amThat would be a user error

author: Mint.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2012, 11:42:30 am
content: Quote from: Chet T16 on April 24, 2012, 11:35:51 amYeah true that, but on the other hand, where else would I put it?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2012, 01:55:51 pm
content: Away from the wall.Either it runs on until it cools, or it melts the handle. There's no way around that.
Fluke 8860A inside photo’s and Voltage comparison video (2.5mb pics) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2012, 05:30:23 pm
content: I ordered 2 meters from prestigetest, they arrived today and since you guys like inside photos I took couple photos. More info about package and the topic of prestigetest can be found here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/equipment-for-sale/I ordered a Fluke 8860A and a 8010A from prestigetest, I also ordered a manual, calibration manual and service manual from ebay for the 8860A, when these arrive I will try to put them in this topic.Both meters are working on 110V and since we have 220V here I had to wait for the manuals, but like always my patience is not so great so I opened up the multimeters, 8860A was easy to setup on 220V but 8010A needs a transformer change (or a step-down transformer)Anyways, how does this 5.5 digit Fluke from early 80’s perform against fairly new multimeters like Fluke 77IV and Gossen Metrawatt – Metrahit 23s with Voltage measurement? Well just watch the video, while ramping up the voltage with a Xantrex XT 30-2 lab power supply:And now some photo’s of the 8860A, front view:Powered on in trigger mode:Back side:Top view without cover, looks like it is fun to calibrate this multimeterRight side:Left side:Cover from left side removed:Close up:Another close up:Top view without shield, I love the sound of relays clicking when changing modes in the morning:Bottom view and bottom cover, wires? hmmz...:If you buy one of these from US and you want it set it to 220V, this is the setting:8860A found his place on my bench, I will be using 8860A for fast measurements, it will serve me well, I don’t need to grab my handhelds every time and put them back in the shelf again when I finish (I like clean benchs)

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 14, 2012, 06:58:05 pm
content: Congrats on the new toys...but still not enough power supplies

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2012, 09:44:28 pm
content: ThanksYeah i should stop buying second hands when i see cheap ones, i got those over the years, my favorite is still the biggest

author: bsgd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2012, 02:26:53 am
content: Nice 'new' meter you got there. Funny that I never get tired of looking inside these things.

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2012, 10:33:02 pm
content: For the intrested, Line voltage switch locations and settings with frequency setting:
Hakko soldering irons on Ebay - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Tioleco
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2012, 02:10:17 am
content: These models for sale on Ebay are original?http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-Replacement-Soldering-Iron-for-936-937ESD-Model-/400194782384?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2d77c4b0http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-Replacement-Soldering-Iron-for-936-937ESD-Model-/270667732099?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f050dd483

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2012, 04:24:03 am
content: No unfortunately not. These are high grade clones missing the foam grip. Judging by the price, there will be ceramic heating element.In fact those two you linked are over priced! You better off buying thishttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Soldering-Solder-Tool-Iron-907-ESD-Handle-/290649718464?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item43ac12bec0#ht_4102wt_905

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2012, 09:02:21 am
content: Foam grip? The picture in the first one isn't very clear but the second one definitely looks like it has the foam... here are 2 clones and one original:http://dangerousprototypes.com/wp-content/media/2011/10/HAKKO_QUICK_NONAME.jpg

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2012, 04:58:19 am
content: Yup, it's hard to tell the type of material of the foam grip from the picture but usually it is not pushed towards the end like the one in your picture.It is usually NOT overlapping the plastic barrel nut.If you have it, you can feel that it is a made out of a very high density medium-hard material, quite porous that it traps dust, dead skin and the likes. Run your nail across the grip lightly and you can see a white scratch. It is tightly coupled to the plastic handle and almost impossible to slide it around without enormous effort.The clones I have seen are flimsy rubber grips. Some are okay but nothing come close to this genuine material.I had access to a few 936s of different build year and the electrical cord is about +/- 0.05 5.00mm. This is where most clones get caught here. They are either 5.2mm or 4.8mm. Use a digital caliper to measure. If you have a genuine 936 with a different thickness cord please let me know because I only had 5 samples. I would like to hear from those who have the earlier units made in Japanese factory.You can't judge real/imitation from the pictures, the seller might use a genuine item picture to advertise for clones that they sell. Asian ebay sellers are quite honest, you can ask them if it's genuine. Usually they will reply a no and convince you that it is same quality.
Question about DMM with a thermocouple option - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Aldem
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 09, 2012, 01:36:09 am
content: So I was bored, and decided to mess with my Fluke 179 and 87 V. I was playing with the thermocouples and wondering myself how much mV the TC are generating. So I put the DMMs on the mV DC range, plug the TCs, nada, 0 mV. However, I can read the temperature without problems when in the temperature mode.Why can't I read mV from the TC ?Any ideas ?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2012, 01:49:51 am
content: You need a cold junction along with the thermocouple to get a reading. Thermocouples measure the temperature difference between two points, not absolute temperature. Read up on it herehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple

author: Aldem
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 09, 2012, 01:51:17 am
content: Oh damn, I totally forgot about the cold junction !Thanks !(I'm an industrial electronician... Don't laugh)

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2012, 08:40:15 am
content: Yes, we tend to forget because there is always cold junction compensation built into the thermocouple head. If you want to read use a lighter to cook the hot junction, or use a soldering iron to toast it.Only TC I used that had no cold junction compensation was direct reading EGT units, you could not read 25C difference on a scale that went to 3000C. Only time the sparkies would call me to do wiring, they could never figure how a dead short could produce a reading, and why the wiring and terminals had to be together and a special type. They break one terminal I have to come there and redo all the wires to the block and relace the loom where needed.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2012, 12:34:29 pm
content: In temp mode the multimeter uses a thermocouple amplifier ... that's why you see 0mV and also there is a cold junction also known as the positive , temperature compensation is applied here.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 09, 2012, 12:44:13 pm
content: Cold junction compensation typically works by measuring the temperature of the input connections. It's only to correct for the offset caused by the temperature of this implicit junction at the inputs of the thermometer. Just measuring the DC voltage should work fine to determine the difference in temperature between thermocouple and DMM leads. Try heating the thermocouple, you should see the DC voltage go up. Don't expect large changes, I believe the expected voltage change is something like 0.04 mV / K, so expect 0.4 mV for a 10 K difference in temperature. It will not be terribly accurate because the thermocouple is not very linear, real thermometers or DMMs with a thermocouple function will have better calibration curves.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2012, 12:57:11 pm
content: I have some old Beckman thermocouple adaptors. Nice old school units, with lovely cold junction compensation, and a built in DC-DC converter. Plugs right into a DVM, and uses a 9V battery.
Teardown: internet banking security calculator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wkb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2012, 08:09:15 pm
content: One of my security calculators used for Internet banking went t*ts up so I decided to tear it apart. Which proved far easier than expected.These things are used here in .nl in combination with a chip-equipped smart card that we also use for electronic payments in shops (I think the Brits call this Chip-and-PIN or somesuch; its been around in .nl for ages)Anyway, the fancy stuff is obviously underneath that black plastic glob, some kind of custom chip.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2012, 08:59:28 pm
content: I logged into my bank earlier today and they said they were sending out a new e-token again ... when i get one i shall tear it down ( It's a OneKey thing )

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2012, 08:50:14 am
content: How helpful of them to label the programming pads. I see SCLK, SDAT, VCC, GND, RESET, VPP? Have you tried probing them?The interesting stuff is going to be in the COB. If you can, decapsulate and give us some die photos

author: wkb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2012, 08:55:44 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on May 02, 2012, 08:50:14 amNo, I have not tried to probe them. In case anybody has the time and inclination to try, I am more than happy to put a stamp on an envelope and ship it over.Any suggestion on how to decapsulate it? I gave up on stocking fuming nitric acid etc about 2 decades ago.
Antique mil-spec user interface teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2012, 01:53:00 pm
content: Look inside the control panel for a Decca navigation system - Mil-Spec porn!

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2012, 05:51:32 pm
content: Very cool stuff as usual Mike. The mechanical construction of that thing nearly makes me slobber.I should have a couple control light similar to the ones in your device in a box somewhere, they're off a 707's cockpit. Very satisfying things.

author: quantumfall
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2012, 06:36:48 pm
content: Thanks for that, very nice and interesting.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2012, 07:53:04 pm
content: You want mechanical perfection look at old Autopilots. Synchro and resolvers, with a whole lot of precision gearboxes thrown in as well. 100 000 parts in each, and around 1000 km of very fine wire. Beautiful when they work, but when they did throw a wobbly my ex colleagues would spend a few months fixing it up again. We had a big box of old modules that we used to raid for replacement parts, and there were common maths modules, like a sine/cosine converter, adders, multiplier and subtractors. Even one that did logs. All ran off 115VAC 400Hz, with an internally generated 26VAC reference that was used for the IO parts.Modern electronics just made the box have 3 redundant portions, but the box stays the same size, as most of the real world inputs still use the same reliable sensors. No silicon sensor survives on an engine, all magnetics and coils there. They operate in a tough regime, where the pins on a connector wear through from vibration of the pin in the socket. Wire locking a socket to the plug is standard so it will not disconnect in use.
New 2012 RS Catalogue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Adrien
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2012, 01:19:05 am
content: Hi, I was wondering if anyone has had a closer look at the new 2012 RS Catalogue. It seems to me that they have gone back to the stone age with the way they have done the Semiconductor Section from section 24 to section 30. No more table showing basic component specs just a list of part number with RS order number and price!What a joke! Say you want to look for a replacement part for a 600V IGBT Do you have to pick one by luck and then check the datasheet?The catalogue from the previous year had most of the information needed to pick the right component, or at least have a list of 3 possible replacements and then check the datasheet. I guess whoever came up with that "improvement" has nothing to do with Electronics!Now I know you have the website, but I always found that it was quicker to look in the catalogue first, to narrow down the possible component replacements.Adrien
Anyone has experience with CEM digital multimeters? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Lo_tse
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2012, 11:52:04 pm
content: Hi, there,Did a quick search on the forum but could not find much information. Just curious whether anyone has used/own the CEM brand higher end digital multimeters e.g DT-9919, DT-9929 and 9939? Any information or comments are appreciated.Regards,

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2012, 02:50:33 am
content: From the word of an asian dealer of UniT and CEM, CEM makes better IR Thermometer. I didn't ask about their Multimeter. CEM's Fluke 187/9 series clone is very expensive.

author: Nermash
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2012, 11:15:33 am
content: If you search mjlorton's channel on Youtube, you will find review of MajorTech 18xx/Extech EX530 meter, both being CEM model with different badges and colors.I was looking into their wireless logging solutions, but after watching Martin's review there are two issues which are deal breakers for me:* slow continuity response* ultra low display update rate

author: Lo_tse
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2012, 11:38:55 pm
content: Thank you guys! It's a shame - the meter looked sturdy and well built. You are right, in the youtube video, the display response was really slow. Worst yet, in a very brief follow up video, Martin showed that the front dial knob was broken off. Not a good sign for workmanship. Personally whether the meter is waterproof or not does not bother me.I was surprised that, according to Martin, the meter is exactly the same as the Extech EX530 except for the some external appearance e.g. colour and model #. Oh, the Extech does have a separate mV selection. Can anyone own an Extech EX530 comment on the critiques - slow response on continuity test, and ultra low dislay update rate (I checked the Extech website, the EX530 does read 2 x's per second only).Regards,
ISO-TECH ... Anyone heard of it ? Rather good stuff . - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2012, 07:31:54 pm
content: Yep , spent some time on RS and i found these $380SGD professional ( Is it ? ) power supplieshttp://www.iso-techonline.com/products/iso-tech-bench-power-supplies.htmlTheir website looks professional but there's no air of any info on them ...RS is having those 200W switchers at 380$ and that's not a bad price at all , unless it's ridiculously useless .Who are they actually ? ( Their meters look like they are from APPA ( from taiwan and it's totally originally ) )

author: armandas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2012, 09:18:48 pm
content: ISO-TECH is an RS brand. They just rebadge equipment made by others.

author: mAJORD
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2012, 09:25:53 pm
content: All their Bench stuff is re-badged GW Instekhttp://www.gwinstek.com/en/product/productdetail.aspx?pid=38&mid=75&id=164normally not very good value next to importing an Instek, but when they get "reduced" they tend to drop the price a lot and become quite tempting.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2012, 09:54:44 pm
content: Quote from: mAJORD on March 22, 2012, 09:25:53 pmRS Branding also ? No wonder their "RS" rebranded power supplies are written as ISO-TECH at the same time .Damn , their website looked fine .But it's comforting to know it's a rebadged GW Instek product ... ( In steaks YUMMY ! ) and not the shitty "Tenma" and "Duratool" rebadging Farnell is doing .

author: Wartex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2012, 03:23:08 pm
content: Quote from: mAJORD on March 22, 2012, 09:25:53 pmI have PS405 and it's fucking awesome. Also BK sells them rebadged too.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2012, 08:26:18 am
content: Quote from: Wartex on March 25, 2012, 03:23:08 pmThanks ! It's the one dave has right ?
Teardown: Philips SX1019 LNB  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wkb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2012, 07:59:03 pm
content: Today I spent EUR 2 on a surplus LNB for DVB-S reception. Although I know how they work I had never seen one 'dissected'. So...The type is a Philips SX1019. The grey circular 'pills' are the 2 local oscillators, one for high and one for low band reception.The bottom view of the cast aluminium body shows 2 Torx-head screws to tune these oscillators (they are closest to the F-connector). The gold plated pins in a white Teflon washer are for horizontally and vertically polarised signals. 2 FETs are used to select one or the other. Lots of microstrip 'components' too.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2012, 02:33:51 am
content: Jeri Ellsworth shows how to build a radar from old satellite dishes:

author: wkb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2012, 11:59:39 am
content: I took some more pictures, the second one nicely shows the horizontal and vertical 'pickups'

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2012, 11:57:13 am
content: Always interesting to look at microwave stuff because of how different things are. Most people who are otherwise knowledgeable in lower-frequency electronics would not easily see how a ceramic puck next to a few PCB traces is enough to form an oscillator.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2012, 12:25:22 pm
content: Microwaves - where electronics becomes plumbing. Or rather, where most of your parts come from the hardware shop, and are assembled with a gas torch.
UT804 bench multimeter new rev? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Nermash
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2012, 07:29:40 am
content: Looks like now there is less free space in the lunchbox, battery option installedhttp://www.dealextreme.com/p/uni-t-ut804-4-7-lcd-bench-type-digital-multimeter-6-x-r14c-um2-119575

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2012, 10:20:28 am
content: AFAIK the UT804 always had this battery compartment. But theres should be enough room for a samich.
Teardown:  Optischer Empfaenger (that is an optical receiver :-) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wkb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2012, 07:37:01 pm
content: Went to a HAM meet yesterday and spent a whopping EUR 3 on a robust piece of military kit calling itself an Optischer Empfaenger. That is an optical receiver for the non-German speakers.Enjoy the pictures and help me understand this thing..

author: wkb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2012, 11:52:37 am
content: OK, the 2 dark optical filters are indeed IR filters like I expected.It took considerable mechanical abuse, physical strength, some strong language and one bandaidbut I managed to get both filters out unharmed.This darned thing was really built to withstand a full strike of the Russian equivalent of SAC.. wow..It must have cost a small fortune.Pictures show the so called Wood-effect with the filter held in front of my IR-converted Kodak (for details on that conversion seehttp://wkb.home.xs4all.nl/IR-DC3400/)

author: wkb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2012, 03:23:33 pm
content: And a close up of the IR detectors. One was placed behind each of the IR filters.

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2012, 03:42:02 pm
content: Nice one wkb, military equipments are always build simple as possible but are very strong against mechanical beating, the reason for this is actually very simple when it comes down to use this equipment in a war situation and the equipment fails it must be fairly easy to fixable it with minimum effort. And like you said, they don’t come cheapI should know this because I was in military for almost 4 years (verbindingen)

author: wkb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2012, 03:54:40 pm
content: Well, robust it was for sure. Easily fixable not really, with silicone sealant everywhere etc.Still, built to last: Teflon insulated wire, all stainless steel screws, waterproof connectors etc.It reminded me of my 12 months in the Dutch airforce

author: wkb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2012, 12:45:00 pm
content: Following my lifelong mantra "there are no things that cannot be dismantled" I put the optical receiver on my milling machine. And sure enought, the victory is mine

author: qno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2012, 08:56:19 am
content: Great pictures, are ou living in Arnhem?

author: wkb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2012, 10:03:26 am
content: Quote from: qno on March 18, 2012, 08:56:19 amYep, in Arnhem, of "A Bridge Too Far" fame. Not Arnhemland...

author: siliconmix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2012, 10:09:35 am
content: are all the ic's ceramic ?

author: wkb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2012, 11:57:33 am
content: Quote from: siliconmix on March 18, 2012, 10:09:35 amThere is only one IC, my guess an opamp, which is housed in a metal can. The IR sensor (the one with the optical window) is housed in a similar metal can enclosure.
Review of dirt cheap chinese "UD-B DDS" freq gen, off from eBay - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Mashpriborintorg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2012, 11:26:38 am
content: Hi, I got this dirt cheap frequency generator, and I believe such an unusual weird thing deserves a review.Pros:- Dirt cheap (45 euros including delivery), and yeah it makes a signal as far as I can see- Built quality is cost effective but not too catastrophic, actually I was expecting something worse- Good BNC sockets, and good Arduino compatible LCD panel.- Came with a decent quality USB powerbrick and BNC to crocodile cord, which are always handy to have.- Frequency, up to 2MHz can be set digit by digit- Probably enough for basic hobby useCons:- Came raw in a air bubble enveloppe, without retail box, without user manual- User interface is minimalist and not so convenient- The rotary buttons are not easy to set, no readout of the offset and amplitude, oscilloscope needed for it- Provided USB cord was not the correct kind for the device !!! but seems to be ok for an Arduino, at least- Lack of functions- Lack of a hi-stability oscillator, seems it runs from a regular quartz- Square wave shows ripple above 1 MHz- It's not a Tek or a HP :-pHere are the photos:

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2012, 11:38:50 am
content: Altera Max !

author: cybergibbons
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2012, 11:52:38 pm
content: That looks like some fairly strong ringing on the square wave...

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 16, 2012, 12:21:40 am
content: Does terminating the output into 50 ohm at the scope end reduce the ringing?

author: Kozmyk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2012, 01:05:33 am
content: I bought one last year - UDB1105 5MHz with SweepIt's OK up to around 1MHz. After that it gets noisy and ringy.Terminating the line did nothing for me.The sweep on mine has a fixed range. I'll have to fire it up to check the start/end points.Has it's uses though (audio injection)Now the Hantek DDS-3x25 - that does the business (with the Goltek software)

author: Kozmyk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2012, 03:12:41 am
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on March 16, 2012, 03:10:58 amCredit where it's due.
Bremi 8510 Pot revive - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Janne
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2012, 06:38:48 pm
content: I've had this old analog 2MHz signal generator for a while now, but I haven't used it much.. Mainly because the potentiometers were shot, totally hopeless to make precise adjustments. The waveform jumped around a lot when turning the potentiometers, and getting the exact wanted value was next to impossible.I had a feeling, that most likely they would not be worn out, just bad from lack of use.. So before going and ordering new potentiometers, I decided to give it a go with CRC contanct cleaner.. Few squirts of the stuff, and 3 out of the 4 pots felt like new, and even the one feeling a bit jerky didn't cause any jitter to the signal either.. So I guess no need to change the pots just yet.It was lovely to look at the old design, with the traces hand drawn =) You won't see these round shaped traces in any of the new devices.The square wave output is not too great, quite a slow rise / fall times.. But the sine wave looks good. Still good for most of the usage I can think for it.

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2012, 08:42:37 pm
content: Quote from: Janne on March 13, 2012, 06:38:48 pmThis kind of repairs usually don't last. The good news is, the pots look absolutely bog standard. It should be easy to get new ones.

author: Janne
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2012, 10:19:15 pm
content: Quote from: BoredAtWork on March 13, 2012, 08:42:37 pmYeah suitable 10k pots seem to be just under 3$ / piece on digikey.. So no problem even if the fix turns out to be short lived.
Hameg HMO2024 Review - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: armandas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2012, 07:13:41 pm
content: Why no use search?https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/hmo-2024-hameg-oscilloscope-review/
Agilent U1272A screen problem! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: maverick
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 14, 2012, 06:17:17 am
content: Hi everyone, I just received my brand new U1272A DMM yesterday and after playing around with it for a while, I noticed a strange problem with the LCD display. The issue is that the display doesn't seem to be centered correctly in the display window. Therefore, some of the display symbols on the right hand side of the display are slightly "cutoff". For example, the "s" in the "ms" symbol is slightly obscured by the right side of the display edge. It's a little weird to explain, so I've attached a photo. I'm just curious to see if anyone else has, or had this problem before?

author: samgab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2012, 09:25:48 am
content: I've never heard of that. It seems pretty crap to me. I think that if I got one and it arrived like that I'd want to return it/swap it.

author: maverick
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 14, 2012, 10:00:20 am
content: Well this is my first Agilent device and I'm a little disappointed given the overall positive opinions on the U1272A. I bought it from Farnell in Hong Kong and I've already told them about the problem, so I'll see how good they are at making things right. Having solely owned the Fluke 87V until now, I didn't expect Fluke build quality from Agilent, but this was definitely an unpleasant surprise.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2012, 10:21:00 am
content: That really is a strange issue.If it had been bought from a random store i would suspect a fake, but i cant imagine it being fake direct from Farnell.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2012, 10:41:59 am
content: Imo, its totally unacceptable, especially with this class & price range, those onehunglow Chinese made are even better when it comes to aligning the lcd panel with the case.If this is not a factory reject which I doubt it, this is a really poor Q&A for the finished good dept at the Agilent.You should ask for replacement immediately.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2012, 03:09:17 pm
content: Its definitely off, I'd exchange it for another. I have several and they are all fine.As for Agilent and production QC issues, its fairly ongoing from all products shown on eevblog. The good news is their support is high, so its easy to get it exchange and fixed.Consider the 1272a was released with considerable bugs, as we detailed here. The Infiniivision reviews showed some too. However, after reporting, Agilent was quick to fix all of them.
Multimeter test leads, what do you think? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: muvideo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2012, 03:01:37 pm
content: Hello everyboy, playing with a high count multimeterwith a strange input connector (the infamous solartronleads connector...) I have the problem of building the probes.As for the connector, I'll search for the gold-coated brassmale pins (center pins of BNC connectors fits perfectly,anybody know where can I find the pins only?),the cable will be simple two shielded twistedpairs.The main problem are the clips.Here are the options I have:The simplest and cheapest way would be to use 4 smallalligator clips, pro low cost, con they are bulky forsmall parts.Second option four mini grabbers, never used so I don'tknow if they are suitable.Third option the kelvin grabbers, like the onesused with the various RCL meters, these would begreat but where to find them (at reasonable cost)?The last option would be great because I can use one singlecable for kelvin and non-kelvin measurements.What do you think?Thanks,Fabio.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2012, 03:09:39 pm
content: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/test-clip-probes-for-lcr-meter-with-bnc-wires-pair-34214

author: muvideo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2012, 03:13:03 pm
content: Quote from: Dave.S on March 05, 2012, 03:09:39 pmThanks.Fabio.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2012, 03:17:11 pm
content: I have used these kelvin clips from this ebay vendor.http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Mueller-BU-75K-10-amp-electric-kelvin-test-clip-/160507941763?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255f04d383