H bridge chip - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 10:05:10 pm
content: I am looking for a H bridge chip with 2 inputs configuration I can simply drive with PWM something like this:http://ixdev.ixys.com/DataSheet/99018.pdfor thishttp://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/MAX4426-MAX4428.pdfbut I need a chip with the maximum output current available on the market. The IXYS would be OK perhaps, I would use 2 of them and piggyback them for higher current but Digi-Key doesn't have it. I know I can build H bridge using transistors to handle more current but I have limited space in the box, therefore the IC requirement. Any suggestions?

author: fcb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 10:51:45 pm
content: You do know that these IC's are drivers for the FET's that may use to make H-bridges, not actually the bridges themselves??

author: Baliszoft
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 11:12:11 pm
content: It depends on how much current (& voltage) do you actually need. Btw i am using mc33186 in one of my projects.

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 11:18:17 pm
content: Quote from: fcb on December 09, 2013, 10:51:45 pmOooops... overlooked it.

author: Baliszoft
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 11:26:18 pm
content: TLE5206-2 is also a nice one!

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 11:54:44 pm
content: Quote from: Baliszoft on December 09, 2013, 11:26:18 pmThanks! This will do. This is exactly what I need!

author: minime72706
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2013, 02:51:34 am
content: What's wrong with the popular and overused L298?

author: fcb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2013, 11:18:51 pm
content: In my experience, L298's are quite easy to blow. LMD18200T's aren't on the other hand.

author: WIRENUT
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2013, 11:41:52 pm
content: I am going to use this IC for a project that I am working on. Hope fully it helps. It is a Quadruple Half H-Driver found on Digikey (SN754410).Link:http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SN754410NE/296-9911-5-ND/380180I hope it helps

author: minime72706
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2013, 12:10:34 am
content: Quote from: fcb on December 10, 2013, 11:18:51 pmI guess they share something in common with the L293, then. I blew one of those while barely doing anything.I think they may need power sequencing to guarantee that they don't 'asplode'.Quote from: WIRENUT on December 10, 2013, 11:41:52 pmThe SN754410 is a pin compatible replacement to the L293. It may be somewhat more reliable than the L293, but it's effectively the same chip if you ask me. It's also only rated for 1A.I wonder why the L298 and L293 seems so easy to blow - it may just be incompatible with us hobbyist typesBy that I mean that I BELIEVE that mine blew up when I applied my 10-15V motor voltage intermittently while the logic side was powered up and receiving control signals. I don't really remember not was I even sure at the time what happened. I'm pretty sure it latched up, but only on the HV side.I hope it helps

author: Redcat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2013, 10:40:02 pm
content: Just want share an image from an L6202 (I think you also could use a L6202 or 6203).It blows up in two of our lab machines on the motor driver pcb when the motor got stock. Pcb worth 9000 euros ->fixed for 2 eurospuh, but this time I soldered a socket in first, it was a real pain to desolder the blown chip an repair the pcb - hope next time it happens I can simply change the chip (at least I hope).

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 01:47:55 am
content: Quote from: WIRENUT on December 10, 2013, 11:41:52 pmI was looking at this chip but it's kind of complicated to drive for my application. I already have a winner:TLE5206-2 which is a power device, that's exactly what I need and has internal protection.

author: minime72706
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 02:26:45 am
content: Quote from: IvoS on December 14, 2013, 01:47:55 amThe chip you mentioned, the L293, the L298, the SN754410, etc. are all driven nearly identically. Things only tend to differ when you're talking about something more specific like a stepper motor. The problem with some of these chips is their current handling capacity. The L298 is the only one nearly suitable and some claim that it's fragile and I think I'd tend to believe them. The LMD18200 is a similar device someone suggested that they contend is much less fragile. The L6202/L6203 was also mentioned, etc.They're similar devices from a control point of view, but for high power, the L298 is the old hobbyist standby. I have some but I have never used them, so I can't comment on their fragility, but given my experience with the L293D, I would not disagree with others about the L298.I think it may just be a fact that any one of these devices may fail to survive a motor stall under certain conditions even if the datasheet promises it will. I tend to avoid mechatronics for no real good reason (so far at least), so I don't have a lot of experience, but I'd say you'd need to design your heat-sinking capabilities and protection to specifically survive the bare resistive load that a stalled motor winding would present.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 06:22:46 am
content: Quote from: Redcat on December 13, 2013, 10:40:02 pmFor removing blown multi-pin through hole packages, since you aren't keeping or re-using the device, i usually cut all the pins off the chip with a small pair of side cutters, as close to the device as i can, then with the device out of the way, i desolder a few pins at a time. Much easier than trying to heat it all up and potentially lifting pads/tracks/plating.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 09:00:47 am
content: As you are likely to detonate this device again I would recommend buying 2 turned pin sockets and place the first in the board then plug the second into the first. That way if the device does do an explosive self test fail it will only burn the top socket, and then you just replace that as well as the chip instead of having to desolder a now burnt socket. Turned pin sockets as these are more consistent for insertion cycle count and have a better defined insertion force, so you can plug them into each other very easily. Just do not use the lower socket for an IC first, as the IC leads will damage it so the turned pins do not fit with the proper clamping force.

author: Redcat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 03:11:11 pm
content: Yes, I had to cut all the pins and desolder them seperately. This was hard enoughI wouldn't have got the chip out in one piece.The idea with two sockets on top of each other is really great, I will apply this definitely in January on the pcbs. Thank you.

author: Alana
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 04:45:49 pm
content: How sockets, even precision machined ones go with heat dissipation from such chip?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 04:53:30 pm
content: Use thermal epoxy to stick a heatsink on top of the chip will cool it a lot, and the turned pins are slightly better thermal conductors.

author: minime72706
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 07:45:51 pm
content: They make semi-pathetic heatsinks for the top of DIP ICs. I have a few. I also have thermal epoxy.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2013, 07:54:37 am
content: I never bought any, just used some used TO220/TO247 flat faced heatsinks removed from dead TV sets or monitors. They are nearly perfect, I just take them and face them to a flat surface using a surface block and some 220 grit wet paper till the surface is even and matt. Then the same to the IC top and use the thermal epoxy. I usually use a small bead of metal loaded epoxy ( Pratley quickset steel) as I have found it is just as good as the marketed thermal epoxy but a lot cheaper. A thin layer just to fill the gaps on a clean degreased surface each side so you just see a small lip around each side and it will have a low thermal resistance, the biggest one being from die to top of package. This also works on exposed slug devices to dead bug them.