hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Between the Two Giants - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: IntegratedValve
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2013, 10:38:06 pm
content: I'm now considering upgrading from a traditional Weller fixed temperature soldering iron to something more advanced, and I'm in between two choices here:JBCMetcalPrices no problem. Looking at both features are pretty similar in terms of fast heating and cooling, but the Metcal does not have temperature control which concerns me in situation where I need not to vapor solder paste or flux.People who have tried both, which one would you recommend?

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2013, 01:02:18 pm
content: Where are you located?You can demo the JBC free for 30 days.http://www.jbctools.com/ask-demo.html

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2013, 02:21:21 pm
content: I've got an assortment of both. I'm really not fussed which one I pick up for general soldering. For very small stuff then the JBC is a little better, especially with the 210 handle, but these aren't good for large soldering. For very large stuff I'd rather have the metcal. JBCs tweezers are the better for small surface mount stuff.Someone will now come along and tell you that Pace or Ersa is the only way to go. Someone else will arrive and say to save your money and go with a Hakko clone, ignoring that your current Weller is better than that.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2013, 07:00:35 pm
content: well the 245 handpiece can go up to 160 watts the 470 around 260 if i remember correctly

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2013, 10:37:02 pm
content: Get a Metcal because all the cool kids have one. You want to be cool RIGHT??(You will be happy with either)

author: IntegratedValve
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2013, 04:37:48 pm
content: Quote from: Smokey on September 25, 2013, 10:37:02 pmI think yeah, scientists like Bob Pease use Metcal, Jim Williams, and other famous figures in the industry...so yeah I want to be a cool kid like them. O0

author: oilburner
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2013, 07:50:33 pm
content: Smokey you are killing me, I need a new keyboard, this one is not coffee proofQuote from: Smokey on September 25, 2013, 10:37:02 pm

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2013, 10:29:18 pm
content: I can highly recommend this onehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/dell-rt7d60-keyboard-%27coffee-bath%27/Still typing on it now.
Help: converting dvr out to cd's - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dondl11
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 08:34:37 am
content: How do I record music from my dvr audio outputs to useable cd's. Obviously, I don't want the video.If I buy a dvd recorder and burn a disk, will it play on my older car cd player or will the format be wrong? I would think my cd player is mp3. I don't know what format dvd recorders put out. They seem to tell what format they will play but not what what they make.Or would I need a cd recorder instead?Thanks, Don

author: grumpydoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 08:50:55 am
content: Rip the disk, extract the audio and put the bits that you want on a CD.

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2013, 12:48:15 am
content: It depends on what make/model your dvr is ,you havn`t said.And are the recordings encrypted ?

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2013, 04:43:53 am
content: Many DVD recorders will refuse to record from a DVR (program dependent)The format of the audio depends on where it comes from. Dual RCA is analog, SPDIF is PCM, DTS, ADPCM, Dolby digital, or whatever format they want.HDMI audio will likely be encrypted.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2013, 04:44:16 am
content: 1/5 of the way there.

author: grumpydoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2013, 07:07:34 am
content: QuoteHe seems to have given up the ghost................
UV/VIS spectrometer teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SpectrHz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2013, 10:31:25 pm
content: Second part of my teardown of two HPLC detectors, this one being an LDC spectroMonitor 3 UV/VIS detector.

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2013, 12:20:09 am
content: I can't watch the video as I'm on mobile. That being said based on its size and the fact that it from an HPLC, I have a feeling it is a UV-vis detector not a spectrometer. The difference is with a detector, you monitor the absorption on one or more specific wavelengths. These are plotted on a graph with time or volume on the x-axis. This allows you to see when compounds come off the HPLC column. A spectrometer on the other hand records "all" of the wavelengths in a range. These are plotted with frequency or wavenumber on the x-axis. This allows one to attempt identification of the compound.Sent from my EVO 4G LTE using Tapatalk 4

author: SpectrHz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2013, 04:48:34 am
content: You are right, it was referred to as a detector and it does indeed only monitor absorption on one wavelength, and in the info I found on it it was referred to as a detector and also a spectrophotometer, however after reading up on Ultra-violet/visible spectroscopy I got into the habit of calling it a Spectrometer.
ID this component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: markm6164
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2013, 02:52:29 pm
content: Can anyone help me ID this component as pictured from a vtech Mobigo i am trying to repair.It is marked: JA336480XI have two other boards with the same part marked: JA3371B10Thanks for any help.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2013, 02:58:41 pm
content: I'm going to go ahead and say it's a 3.3V LDO regulator, pinout: NC, ground, shutdown, output(best guess)/input, ground/heatsink, input(best guess)/output. But I can't find a datasheet or full part number.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2013, 03:08:59 pm
content: BL8591CC5TR3.3V

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2013, 03:12:54 pm
content: Where'd you find that?

author: markm6164
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2013, 03:19:20 pm
content: Thank you very much.

author: markm6164
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2013, 06:00:49 pm
content: Just another thanks. The regulator was faulty. It was outputting 1.34v. I removed it and added an external 3.3v and it all works. Need to find a replacement regulator with same pinout and shutdown now. Any suggestions?

author: mrflibble
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2013, 06:25:49 pm
content: Quote from: c4757p on September 22, 2013, 03:12:54 pmYeah, I'd like to know that as well...I did manage to find it by cheating (pretending I made an inspired guess).I pretend to make the inspired guess that the 33 stands for the 3.3V voltage (yeah, I managed to figure that one out myself) and that surely the datasheet is for multiple devices in a range of voltages and that surely there's a table in there with JAXX in it somewhere where XX is the voltage. It's a linear regulator, and the datasheet is in pdf format, soooooo googling on "linear regulator jaxx pdf" it is.Hit number 3.

author: ablacon64
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2013, 12:33:00 am
content: Quote from: c4757p on September 22, 2013, 03:12:54 pmWant to know that too!Most times I find interesting info here (not this time though):http://www.s-manuals.com/smd

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2013, 09:30:50 am
content: Googled "sot-89 JAxx". I didn't presuppose it was a regulator or anything, but did figure maybe the 33 would be a datecode or something else variable.Also came acrossthisandthis, which shows some rather curious... inspiration going on.
update sircuit battery for Fluke 8010A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: marketta
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 11, 2013, 04:53:05 pm
content: Hiare Italian and I are holder of the Fluke 8010A with which I am replacing the old lcd that he/she is not seen with another model anymore VI-302-DP-RG with opportune changes.However I would like to complete putting him all the components to add the rechargeable battery, Someone of the forum he knows how to tell me if you has effected the upgrade and where I can find the trafo PE-61922 478453I Thank you And I Thank Who MI Wants to Answe

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2013, 05:33:17 pm
content: Hi,The manufacture was Pulse Engineering, which is now called Pulse Electronics. Unfortunately, the part number 478453 is a custom part made for Fluke.The only way to get one of these transformers is to find another Fluke 8010A.The battery ones often appear to be dead, because the NiCad batteries fail short circuit.Good Luck !!CiaoJay_Diddy_B

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2013, 05:44:54 pm
content: There's nothing too special about it, just a 5V to +/- 15V stepup. You could find a suitable DC-DC converter module, or make your own transformer and drive it with any kind of oscillator.

author: marketta
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 21, 2013, 02:28:42 pm
content: I thank you for your answersfrom as I have understood I can put an any transformer with exit?however do I ask you which its characteristics are?and do I ask you besides, does the T3 have 6 contacts 3 primary and 3 secondary with which transformer I can replace him/it without making errors?thanks
2-3S lipo charger problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Bibiricat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2013, 09:40:06 pm
content: Hello.I have a 2-3S lipo charger, and one of the channels died (in the picture, the upper most one !). I suspect it's the charging controller, a 6 pin device that i can't find.Anyone can help? All others lipo chargers are 5 pin devices.Here is the circuit. (sorry for the big image )

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2013, 10:01:59 pm
content: I wrote the web address (www.skd88.com) into my browser, and a bunch of Chinese characters came in. After google translate it seems they manufacture battery chargers.I hope this helps, but I think it is kinda hopeless. It is almost impossible to identify these far east components, as getting the datasheet is impossible, and often it is in one language, and they want you to order a million pieces directly from the manufacturer. Not like 1 from farnell.BTW the soldering is awful on that thing. I wonder who came up with the idea to make a big blob of solder on the pins of the ICs. Look at Q1. We know how a SO8 mosfet looks like inside, but this is cruel.

author: Bibiricat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 04:14:22 am
content: I was hoping someone had some experience with some 6 pin lipo battery chargers, and could just tell me some replacement component, because i know that i won't ever find that same IC .

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 11:09:56 am
content: You'll have to RE the schematic, but I doubt it's an integrated charger.Quote from: NANDBlog on September 18, 2013, 10:01:59 pmNo one really cares as long as it works... and it might provide slightly better heatsinking too.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 05:34:00 pm
content: It probably violates about 300 pages of the IPC-A-610 also. And you just proved my point, because apparently it does not work anymore...

author: Bibiricat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2013, 09:02:06 pm
content: Ok, time to get another one. It was 4$ when i bought it 3 years ago, and it worked good until now
Circular connectors on Pace soldering stations... Mfg/Model/Type? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Co6aka
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 22, 2013, 02:49:16 pm
content: Anyone know the manufacturer and model/type of the circular connectors on the Pace soldering stations? Thanks!

author: willb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2013, 11:52:06 pm
content: I was under the impression that they were just a DIN connection with a locking outer ring.

author: philpem
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2013, 11:15:14 pm
content: Quote from: willb on September 22, 2013, 11:52:06 pmIn that case, have a look at the Lumberg connector range. They make locking DIN connectors.
1960's Geiger counters mini-teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2013, 04:42:52 pm
content: Sort of like a mailbag and mini-teardown. I didn't completely pull them apart but there were pictures included. A guy on a geiger counter forum had some 1960's civil defense geiger counter parts he was getting rid of for the price of shipping.Sorry about the low audio. The video from my phone playback was very loud. Youtube seems to have turned it down significantly.
Q: How to protect bare PCB device without a proper enclosure? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2013, 05:08:08 am
content: /.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2013, 06:38:28 am
content: Yeah, it will be heatshrink.Hobbyking sell lots of sizes up to 100mm wide at good prices.It used a lot for cheap/light protection of pcbs for RC stuff, Speed controllers etc..http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11412__Turnigy_Heat_Shrink_Tube_100mm_Blue_1mtr_.htmlIf the PCB is small enough you can use transparent heat shrink (smaller size) and have pinout/silkscreen info visible on the pcb.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2013, 02:42:04 pm
content: I use heatshrink tubing for small PCBs all the time. I like the clear stuff so it doesn't look like some plastic turd O0

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2013, 12:20:43 am
content: Yeah, clear definitely looks better.To get away with using colored heatshrink it really needs a professional looking sticky label on it, or as you say.. plastic turd.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2013, 06:36:39 am
content: you just have to heat it evenly, and have it contract evenly so it looks smooth, the ripples and such make it look bad, two birds with one stone; cover the board in liquid electrical tape to waterproof/strainrelief/vibration reduction, then heatshrink it so nice even heat shrinking

author: Jibby
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2013, 10:25:29 am
content: Mount it on a Hylam board

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2013, 11:58:15 am
content: A thick layer of conformal coating might also work, if you don't mind (or want) the decreased serviceability.

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2013, 04:40:47 pm
content: Since looking good or professional was never mentioned, the obvious answer is hot glue. Lots and lots of hot glue.

author: WarSim
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2013, 06:11:17 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on September 12, 2013, 11:58:15 amDecreased serviceability?Are you suggesting another thing I do everyday is difficult?Well at least you didn't say my job isn't impossible.

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2013, 09:32:15 am
content: Quote from: ConKbot on September 12, 2013, 04:40:47 pmActually for the most heavy duty Grunge look, nothing beats hotmelt glue, cardboard and gaffer tape.
compaq portable 3 teardown opportunity - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: the nerdling
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 09, 2013, 04:11:50 am
content: hey dave i have a compaq portable 3 computer that might be good for teardown tuesdays.not sure if it works.i might keep it, if not you can have it to do an episode on itO0http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compaq_Portable_III

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 09, 2013, 04:36:17 am
content: Hey, why not, if you don't want it.What's postage cost?

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2013, 05:09:08 am
content: I had bought the original Compaq Portable at a used computer store. It came with Compaq DOS 1.2. It was so old that it didn't support directories. If you put a disk in that had a directory it would just look like a file that was the size of the contents of that directory.It had a neat BASIC demo with a flying bee and played music. I pulled the second 5.25" drive and installed an IBM 10MB drive. It worked ok but it tended to shut down. I had determined that the 5 amps that the HD was drawing was too much, so I mounted a big fan on the PSU and that seemed to keep it running.I removed the 8088 CPU and installed an NEC V20. I do remember it ran Prince of Persia really well for such a low end system.

author: marshallh
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 09, 2013, 10:05:23 pm
content: I have one collecting dust here if anyone wants it. Works fineIt is heavy as hell though, and will cost you about $50-60 to ship.US only

author: the nerdling
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 12:31:58 am
content: i'm in the blue mountains, don't know the postage costsi also had a quick look in it no hard drive and the main board is just floating around in thereis there any meetups or things of the sort soon? if so i might be able to bring it there.i also have free samples i got from texas instruments but they are WAY to tiny for me to do something with, if you want themfour channel laser diode driverIC Li-ion chargesk serial eeprom chiptiny led driver for camera flashswitched voltage capacitor voltage doublerif your willing, maybe a trade for one of the things from this contest
Cruise Control Module Teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2013, 10:01:05 am
content: Pretty cool looking and pretty cool the way it works!videoMy favorite part of this item is definitely the mechanicals, but the PCB design and layout is simple and elegant and I like it.A whole other topic I would like to ask about is how would I properly drive 3 MOSFETS? The MOSFETS will be handling a peak of 3A and a max of 12V, the load is inductive. Not much information sorry don't know what else to say, ask if more info is needed.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2013, 01:06:11 pm
content: I think the CC on older models is even more interesting, the whole unit was pneumatic/mechanical and didn't use a microcontroller at all!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2013, 07:15:32 pm
content: Tyhe first appnote I saw of them used 2 vacuum valves that operated a diaphragm to pull the throttle mechanism, and the controller was done in IIL inside the chip. All inputs were actually currents, fed via resistors, and the outputs were done with current switches.

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2013, 09:08:26 pm
content: wow cool stuff, unfortunately I never run into anything that old haha
Early 90s engineering marvel - Ektapro EM high-speed camera system teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tesla500
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2013, 10:55:24 pm
content: Here's an absolute marvel of early 90s engineering. This is a ca. 1990 Kodak Ektapro EM high speed camera system. This records 240x192 video at 1000FPS, and saved into a vast bank of SIMM memory modules totaling 216MB. This apparently cost about $70k when it was new in the early 90s, and was absolutely cutting edge at the time.Also shown is a slightly later version that saves into 864MB of EDO RAM.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2013, 12:23:10 am
content: I've watched the video... my first reaction was "why the hell didn't they replace all those logic ics with some cpld or fpgas"... at that price (for the whole thing) it wouldn't have made much difference.and all those memory chips... for such a device I would have thought they would just solder the memory chips themselves directly on the boards, instead of through hole modules.
ATT Microcell - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TRa757
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2013, 05:06:49 pm
content: A bit of a teardown on a microcell I don't use anymore. It seems as though the thing is pretty tightly secured with tamper proofing and a secure root pw. Have a look and comment. I just love tearing stuff down.http://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3620.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3621.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3622.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3623.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3624.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3625.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3626.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3627.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3628.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3629.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3630.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3631.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3632.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3633.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3634.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3635.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3636.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3637.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3638.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3639.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3640.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3641.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3642.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3643.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3644.JPGhttp://www.timrotunda.com/Photos/teardowns/microcell/IMG_3645.JPG

author: TRa757
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2013, 06:51:32 pm
content: http://www.matasano.com/research/microcellbricks/microcellbricks-whitepaper.pdfJust found this interesting hacking doc.
Dc-Dc "booster" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Flump
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2013, 01:20:22 am
content: i have a variable 13.8v dc powersupply but needed higher voltage to test some zeners withso i bought thishttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-150W-10-32V-To-12-35V-Power-Supply-Boost-Adjust-Module-Mobile-Laptop-Car/190851387499?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D16581%26meid%3D1850030650965224091%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D7839%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D190851387499%26if you have the input voltage at 9.6v the output shoots up to just over 45v and one of theelectrolytic burst lots of stinky smoke at 2am i crapped myself loljust a heads up to anyone else thinking about getting one of these

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2013, 02:27:11 am
content: Quote from: Flump on October 09, 2013, 01:20:22 amAre you sure you didn't make a flub, like shorting it, back feed, or reverse polarity?What sort of load did you have on the output?I haven't used that particular model, but the cheap chinese DC-DC converters on eBay (despite being cheap chinese) generally do what it says it will if treated right.

author: Flump
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2013, 03:41:16 am
content: yeah no flub lolit also reaches the same overshoot voltage when you turn the power supply onand it slowly drops down to what it should be.no load on the output, just connected to my bench dmm,the caps are rated at 35v

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2013, 03:10:46 pm
content: I have several of those, I use them to charge 24 Volt gel cells from 12 volts in a car, work fine for me I also have one that goes to 90 Volts that I intend to use in an old valve radio that runs on batteries 90 volt batteries are no longer available and as there is room inside for a big glass lead acid 2.5 volt for heaters I intend to put a small 12 volt in and bost for HT and have a buck for LT.

author: Flump
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2013, 05:32:35 pm
content: You guys that have them do you know if the voltage overshoots when you first turn thepower supply on if its connected up ?

author: Christopher
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2013, 06:01:59 pm
content: Test with various loads, scope directly across output (no big gnd probe) on turn on. A small over voltage is pretty common for cheap crappy ebay DCDC (I mean look at the PCB routing... pretty crap)DC-DC need a minimum load (DMM doesnt count), though most of the time they work with no load..
Newark/Element14 Canada Voucher Codes? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MrAureliusR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 01, 2013, 04:22:57 am
content: Hey, the last time I bought from Newark/E14 here in Canada, afterwards they sent me an email with a voucher code that was good for a couple months, I think it was %10 or %15 off! Not bad. Has anyone else had this experience? And does anyone have a voucher code for August?I think we should start sharing voucher codes here on the forum, usually they encourage you to share them because it brings them more sales.
Thermal transfer printing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: steve30
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2013, 02:15:44 pm
content: I bought a small thermal typewriter off ebay recently. It will either print on to thermal paper, or you can use regular paper, with a thermal transfer ribbon.It prints fine on thermal paper, but when using the transfer ribbons, the print quality is very poor. I was wondering if this could just be because the ribbons are very old? Unfortunately I don't have any new ones to test.I've never done much with thermal printers so I don't know much about them.Thankssteve30

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2013, 03:20:06 pm
content: Could be old ribbons that have evaporated the Bisophenol A into the air, or a poor spacing between ribbon and paper, or dirt on the print head. Wipe the head with some isopropyl alcohol to clean it, and try again. Check if there is adjustment for platen spacing. They generally give quite good results until the head fails, which typically only occurs after about 100 000km of paper has been through them. I have one for teardown that has a single dead spot on the head, which renders it useless for it's job as a barcode printer. It has done way more than 100 000km of labels though.

author: steve30
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2013, 09:19:02 pm
content: Thanks for the reply Sean.I already cleaned the print head and it didn't make any difference, so I think its the ribbons.
[ inverter trouble shouting ] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: texane
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 06:26:51 pm
content: Hi,I recently got a defective apc back ups es 550 inverter,and try to bring it back to life.The problem: I can start the inverter, voltages seems okto me. But, it completely stops when I connect a load. Iam trying with a simple 25W desktop light.I thought the issue cam from the inverter internal battery,an acid lead 12V 7.5AH. Thus, I tried with a 60W lab powersupply, but the problem remains.I checked the inverter DC output without a battery, it is13.7V.I checked the AC output with a multimeter, it is around165V (I live in France, 220v AC). With an oscillo, I sawthat it is a modified sine wave based inverter, so themeasured voltage seems ok.Do you have any idea what to check? Any troubleshoutingadvice is more than welcome!Thanks for your help,Fabien.

author: texane
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 06:35:18 pm
content: I forgot to mention that I checked the PCB and it looksalright to me. I replaced some caps that looks a bitsuspicious, but it did not change anything. Here somephotos:http://sd-38205.dedibox.fr:8484/~texane/tmp/apc_back_ups_es_550/pic/

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 06:38:07 pm
content: Use a good battery and try again. Most commonly the battery fails as open circuit. the UPS draws a very large current from the battery, even when driving a very small load.

author: texane
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 09:02:48 pm
content: Actually, I did some tests with a very small load, an old mobile phoneand a 220v ac to 5v dc transfo. The inverter DC alim prints 1.6A at 12V,but the inverter does not turn off. If I use my laptop, the alim goes up to5A / 12V and the inverter turns off. Thus, I underestimated the powerconsumed by the inverter, and my problem is now to find a more powerfulalim or a more efficient inverter.Thanks for helping,Fabien.
UPS Mustek Power Must 1060 TearDown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: danielb7390
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 07:36:36 pm
content: Hi,Have been watching eevblog for more than a year now and decided to register here!My electronics is really bad but i like to teardown stuff and watch eevblog videos!Its 2years and 8months old and got a FAULT light last week so i decided to took it apart and take some nice photos! I couldn't find any detailed photos of this ups brand/model.PhotosFirst thing i noticed was one battery was leaking acid...not good...After removing the batteries i saw a capacitor going bad...What you guys think of the quality of construction??I think that plugs so close to the transformer without heat shrink is not good at all!!The rest i really don't know much of electronics to have a opinion but i noticed some input filtering is not populated on the board.
Fixing a LG TV - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ResR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 04:35:50 pm
content: I'm trying to fix a LG 19LS4R TV, that had bad caps (replaced) and broken 3,5mm audio jack with 8 pins, but I can't get sound out to the internal speakers. There is no burned components. Does anyone knows the pinout for the 3,5mm audio socket so I can at least get sound to speakers?https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1004822_508292735916838_1178098311_n.jpghttps://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1005916_508292692583509_259575134_n.jpg

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 05:45:18 pm
content: I don`t know the pinout ,but heres the schematic .http://elektrotanya.com/lg_19ls4r_lp69c_chassis.pdf/download.htmlScoll down page where it says : This file is downloadable free of charge... processing (please wait)(You are not logged in, only 2 downloads per day possible for you.) The link will appear after a few seconds.Good luck.

author: ResR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 07:19:17 pm
content: Thank you for your assistance, the schematic really cleared it out. I have to bridge the HP_DET with ground to make it work, if I readed the schematic correctly.Edit: Bridging HP-DET to ground didn't work, still no audio. Hmm...

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2013, 01:26:35 am
content: HP_DET goes to pin 37 of the IC ,it acts like a switch ! plug headphones into the socket and test T_Terminal 1 to pin 37(pin4 of headphone jack touches pin 6a when headphone socket plugged in, and pin5 touches 6b) Its easier to understand that way .

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2013, 07:16:03 am
content: Yeah, in situations like that the headphone jack usually operates like a switch to turn the internal audio off and on. I've seen them just go bad and not close completely when the plug is pulled out. Sometimes you can bend the inside parts to close properly.

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2013, 02:12:26 am
content: Yes,they can go bad and also get damaged easily .If you need to replace the jack, the LG part number is : 6612F00099A .New parts:http://north.pl/karta/6612f00099a-jack-phone-lg,736-UV-0308.html

author: urbis
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 10:49:04 am
content: My first post here...I know some LG TVs have an option in the menu to disable the internal speakers, not sure whether you've checked this?
KORAD KA6003P 60V, 3A DC Power Supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wblackledg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 03:59:04 am
content: I picked one of these up last week. Since then they hiked the price by $10.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AXL7UJA/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I gave it a rudimentary test. seems to fall within specs. It was only $20 more than the 30V version that Dave tested.thanks.
TV electronics, or lack of... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Mikey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2013, 07:03:36 pm
content: Yesterday I had Info Care (philips) out to replace the power supply in my tv under warranty...The tv is 47", but there was so little inside it... One pcb with the power supply that is around 10x15cm, and another board with the connectors and such, a few connectors between power supply, and from the other board to other things, and that was it... So much air inside the tv...Good thing is, the power supply seems to be made to not break down on purpose. (even when the old that got replaced actually broke) Capacitors was no where near heatsinks, some resistors lifted off the board with some spacers... But why they made the case so big is a mystery to me...

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2013, 08:19:08 pm
content: Quote from: Mikey on August 24, 2013, 07:03:36 pmIt could help with cooling, avoiding the need for a fan?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2013, 08:40:13 pm
content: Mostly to hold the panel inside. The integration has gotten to the point that most of the systems fit on either a few special chips, or are bonded to the LCD or plasma panel flexible boards. The space is generally there to provide either cooling, or to have a balance for it on the stand, as the sets typically are front heavy.They cut costs, so often they use cheap caps, and then they will fail in a few years.
Soviet Battery Charger "Start" Teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ResR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2013, 05:09:09 pm
content: This is 1983's vintage battery charger / cold weather car starter. It has massive 200A diodes in bridge rectifier configuration (pink porceline insulation, rare use in soviet civilian technology at this era), big chunky transformer with several primary coil taps to control the voltage. It had a malfunction in it's output switch, that was massively overloaded during an accidental short caused by unknown female user, who borrowed it from it's owner. I bypassed it. Not very high tech, no controller, only an ammeter with a shunt resistor to indicate current, but sure it's truly made to last.

author: jancumps
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 24, 2013, 05:20:03 pm
content: I'd like to see the crocodile clamps after the short. Impressive

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2013, 05:55:38 pm
content: what a joke....they use little wires internally to hook everything up , even the transformer wires are like max 20 ampere ... and little wires externally. yet they use 200 ampere diodes....i think that russian dude got his hands on a container of surplus 200 ampere diodes for cheap or free and slapped them in there. more profit...

author: ResR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2013, 06:04:37 pm
content: Probably. It was Soviet Union after all, everything was scarce then. Or the PSU were built to withstand the most severe punishment it can thrown on, so the diodes has current reserve to not to burn down in case of the accidental short circuit. Planned obsolence was unknown at that time here too.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2013, 07:52:16 pm
content: The 200A is definitely only for the few seconds it takes to crank an engine. The wires won't heat up much in that time but semiconductors are less forgiving. (Also note that the heatsinking isn't anywhere near enough for 200A for more than a few seconds.)
Hakko 926 Heat LED - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Blown Fuse
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 11:07:00 pm
content: Bought a Hakko 926. It was filthy and needed a cleanup. Made retorbrite and opened it up to find spiders and dead bugs. The lead on the LED that denote that the iron is heating up broke. All i can make out on the LED is + - and SATO. I measured the leads to the LED and was getting between 6 to 9 volts DC. I have looked everywhere to ID that LED. No luck. I tires a few radio shack 5 mm LEDs but some have a resistor and shut down the IRON heat or doesn't light up but the iron heats. Need help!!

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 11:12:59 pm
content: The LED probably just hooks off the comparator output. I can't see how a faulty one could cause anything more than the LED not to light. Consider maybe a bad solder joint on the comparator, or surrounding components?

author: envisionelec
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2013, 12:26:33 am
content: The LED is driven by a half wave rectified AC source. It is a standard Red LED. Open circuit will always read "high voltage" because the LED is a constant voltage device.
1 HP AC Drive autopsy - why NOT to connect your drive backwards? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: superUnknown
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2013, 04:19:54 am
content: Does anyone know why some VFDs can be hooked up wrong and still survive while others blow up instantly?My Variable Frequency Drive Infineon IGBT module blew up. I connected the mains bass-ackwards and let out the blue smoke.I very rapidly deduced that the Infineon IGBT modules do not have built in protection against dumb-assery.here's the link to the teardown and diagnosis vid:What happens when you connect a cheapo drive backwards

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2013, 07:50:58 am
content: Reminds me of this:http://youtu.be/DGqH8LGjZdY

author: Uup
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2013, 10:58:50 am
content: By backwards, do you mean that you connected the supply voltage wires to the motor output connections on the VFD?Cheap or expensive, I have always seen a warning on a VFD against doing that.

author: superUnknown
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2013, 02:30:37 pm
content: Ja, mains connected to drive output. Some higher end drives can tolerate it, yaskawa, mitsubishi?

author: superUnknown
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2013, 02:52:34 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on August 13, 2013, 07:50:58 amgreat link! Thanks.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2013, 06:40:22 pm
content: As well those keyboards are connected to the mains, via the power supply diodes. thus they are at 340V above ground. Not good if you remote mount it and the back gets shorted out...........Anybody have some simple cheap sub $100 inverters available including shipping worldwide.

author: somlioy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2013, 05:31:30 pm
content: A colleague of mine managed to do that on ship once. BAM $2000 for a new vfd. This was a vfd for one of the well pumps on a fish carrier.The vfd was a Schneider Electric branded one.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2013, 03:07:19 am
content: Wouldn't that be the same as the motor being turned (by some external source like an engine connected to the shaft) while the drive is off? I suppose things would go bang if it detects that and tries to apply braking.

author: superUnknown
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2013, 03:41:09 am
content: Quote from: NiHaoMike on August 18, 2013, 03:07:19 amYes.I thinkthat is why good drives can handle being hooked up backwards, and cheapos can't. Good drives have a speed/frequency detect when first powered on and also when ramping up/dwn; just in case load (motor) is backfeeding...
JBC Handpiece Connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: andyb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 08:04:10 pm
content: Hey folks, has anyone managed to identify the connector used by JBC for their irons?I'd like to build some extension cables (rather than buying them from JBC for $$$), and I'd also like to mess around building my own temperature controller - particularly because they're simply resistive with an embedded thermocouple. It would be sweet to have a battery powered JBC iron!

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 08:56:37 pm
content: Quote from: andyb on August 16, 2013, 08:04:10 pmHirose RPC1

author: andyb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 10:12:12 pm
content: Wow, great! Thanks!
Sony HT-IS100 wierd problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: VanitarNordic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2013, 10:29:29 pm
content: Hello,one of my friend has Sony HT-IS100 unit. it was working perfectly but for no reason, now when we start it up, after 2-3 seconds, it shows the messages "Push Power Protector" and supply fan goes off.I opened the case but I couldn't find specific problem by the visual inspection nor some test. Anybody has worked with this device before and could you tell me which component is the source of this problem?

author: Benedict
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2013, 05:58:06 am
content: http://community.sony.com/t5/Home-Theater-Products/what-is-push-power-protector-message-on-sony-bravia-theatre-all/td-p/37595hope this helps a bit

author: VanitarNordic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2013, 08:34:08 am
content: Quote from: Benedict on June 14, 2013, 05:58:06 amThank you, but these are general troubleshooting and did not solved the problem.

author: Benedict
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2013, 10:33:39 am
content: The first place I'd start checking are the output transistors, but hope someone with more knoweledge or actually has the thing can help.

author: VanitarNordic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2013, 08:43:03 pm
content: Quote from: Benedict on June 14, 2013, 10:33:39 amBasically it doesn't have power transistor. it has six Amplifier ICs on the same PCB board with Digital part. Amplifier is not separated.

author: chico
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 09, 2013, 06:49:58 pm
content: Sorry to resurrect a month-old thread, but I couldn't find tech info about the IS100 elsewhere, and I need to do some work on one.Main Question: How does one open the case? Top or bottom? Not obvious...Secondary Question: Any technical reference info available, such as schematic?Thank you...

author: VanitarNordic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2013, 12:04:53 pm
content: Quote from: chico on July 09, 2013, 06:49:58 pmThe case had a lot of screws. first you have to remove the wooden box, then you will find metal box inside with a lot of screws. no schematic or something else

author: chico
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 15, 2013, 04:56:12 am
content: Quote from: VanitarNordic on July 18, 2013, 12:04:53 pmA belated thanks. I didn't see your response until just now. Time to dig out the screwdriver....BTW, how does the wooden box come off?
Resistive RAM - promises 1TB in single chip  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2013, 01:49:35 am
content: An article on PC Pro UK :http://www.pcpro.co.uk/news/383479/resistive-ram-crams-1tb-onto-tiny-chipQuoteThoughts ?

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2013, 04:08:18 am
content: this is one implementation of the memristor. its been around for a while- yes they have proven it works , but agilent people proved it 5 years ago- yes they have made one , so has ST .. 4 years ago ...longevity ? unknowntemperature shock can erase it ...terabytes ? that is speculation based on <10nM technology and stacked memory layers. yield will go to snot.it'll be another good 10 years before you see the 1 TB on a chip... by then we will have petabyte harddisks.... currently there is no push for larger drives. we are at 4 Gbyte in mass production and we haven't rolled out at HAMR or patterned media yet... ( which are both tested technologies . a patterned media can store 1 terabit per square inch per platter without breaking a sweat. and that was done in 2007 (fujitsu , now toshiba) .. in lab environmnet )
Video example of a "numbers machine" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2013, 12:05:32 am
content: Nice video showing the actual type of machine that was used to feed the transmission of the mysterious numbers broadcasts. Interesting example of Eastern block electronics construction.For those of you who don't know, the numbers stations transmitted on shortwave, sending a series of numbers in 5 digit sequences in Spanish or other non-English languages as messages to embassies or spies.

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2013, 12:55:30 am
content: Quote from: xrunner on August 08, 2013, 12:05:32 amWhile they are dying out, I think there are still various numbers stations in operation?In fact, I think there's quite a lot of secret weird stuff floating around in the electromagnetic spectrum.Lots of recordings on Youtube, which I have occasionally played, just for the freakyness.
HPLC detector teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SpectrHz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 09:53:09 pm
content: I made a video of me tearing down a filter fluorescence detector from IBM. I'm sure I got quite a few things wrong as I couldn't find any info about this machine. It was also 2:30Hope everyone enjoys!I will follow up on the other one when I can.