Best Way to Clean Oxidized Soldering Iron Tip? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: superscott319
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2013, 04:39:44 pm
content: What's the best way to clean an already oxidized soldering iron tip? I'm new to soldering and after just a few days of using my iron, ended up with several completely oxidized tips despite pre-tinning each one before use. I've read a number of opinions on how to remove oxidation from soldering iron tips but it seems there's some controversy on which way is best and some claiming certain methods can actually harm the tip. For example, some recommend using a fine grit sandpaper, while others claim that can also remove the thin iron coating over the tip.Please let me know which way works best for you.Thanks

author: 8086
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2013, 04:42:04 pm
content: For some tips the only solution is to buy replacementsIs your iron cheap?

author: Codemonkey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2013, 05:02:40 pm
content: Get something like this:http://uk.farnell.com/multicore-solder/ttc-lf/cleaner-tip-lead-free-15g/dp/1115477Works wonders!

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 06, 2013, 05:15:13 pm
content: Don't use abrasive tools like files or sand paper on iron plated (i.e. non crap) tips, that will strip the plating and severely limit the life time.

author: plesa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2013, 05:23:30 pm
content: Quote from: Codemonkey on September 06, 2013, 05:02:40 pmI have similar from PAce and it works like a charm and will last for decade.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2013, 05:23:51 pm
content: I think the most common cause of oxidized tips is an excessive tip temperature. Some of the cheaper irons without temperature regulation can run very hot. My old Antex iron used to do this.The problem will be worse with low quality tips as others have mentioned.I also found that soldering bad materials can be very destructive. I made a few experiments attempting to solder aluminium and it completely ruined the tip. It took a lot of effort with tip tinner/cleaning compound to make the solder wet the tip again.Good soldering process is important. Wipe the tip clean and re-tin it between every joint. Try not to leave the iron sitting hot on the bench while not in use. Turn it off as soon as you have finished soldering.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2013, 06:44:46 pm
content: Zinc chloride past flux like Nokorrode. Dip the tip in hot and swirl around until it will tin again.

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2013, 06:50:38 pm
content: Quote from: plesa on September 06, 2013, 05:23:30 pmI believe the active ingredient in these products issal ammoniac.

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2013, 08:54:07 pm
content: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062721It will last you a lifetime. I misplaced my old one and bought a new one and of course as soon as I bought it I found the old one

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2013, 11:08:02 pm
content: Quote from: Codemonkey on September 06, 2013, 05:02:40 pm+1 to tip activator/cleaner. Use also brass wool, or wet sponge. The sponge has the drawback, that you have to re-tin it after. The oxidizing happens mainly because lead-free solder. If you happened to buy one, throw it out, buy one with lead.

author: Galaxyrise
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2013, 06:31:16 am
content: When I was taught to solder, I was told to always leave the tip tinned when putting it back in the holder to protect the tip from oxidizing. Since no one else has mentioned this, was I given over-cautious instructions?

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2013, 07:00:23 am
content: Quote from: Galaxyrise on September 07, 2013, 06:31:16 amNo, you were not...Quote from: IanB on September 06, 2013, 05:23:51 pm...between every joint, and afterwards, before switching the iron off.If the tip of the iron doesn't look shiny, clean it and re-tin it.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2013, 07:25:42 am
content: If you find solder will only stick to some areas of the tip, and not others, then it's time for a replacement tip. (and i don't mean from ebay/aliexpress).(Obviously you clean the tip first, before assuming its dead, but if cleaning doesn't help then the tip is dead)

author: Galaxyrise
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2013, 07:35:24 am
content: IanB: oops! Sorry I missed that. I blame the insomnia. Glad I'm not the only one that thought dead tips after short use suggested bad process.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2013, 10:38:16 am
content: Quote from: Psi on September 07, 2013, 07:25:42 amThis is a very expensive, and bad advice. As we wrote, if you can clean it wit tip activator, there is no need to throw it away. It is a perfectly accepted way. Also, an activator costs half of a quality tip, and multiplies the lifetime of a tip. If you have to work with lead free, it will oxidize anyway, no matter how much you try to avoid

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2013, 10:49:32 am
content: Quote from: NANDBlog on September 08, 2013, 10:38:16 amI meant after generic cleaning. eg, a wet sponge and re-tin.I've always found that once you notice solder not sticking any more (after just wiping the tip) then the coating has burnt off and it will never work again.I've never used tip activator and my tips last 1-5 years depending on usage.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2013, 11:11:56 am
content: For hobby use, if you don't use lead-free, what you wrote might be perfectly true. With Lead free, after the first day, the best weller tip will be oxidized. Even the HAL solder on the boards can contaminate the tip.I would still recommend to try the activator.

author: 8086
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2013, 11:20:12 am
content: Quote from: NANDBlog on September 08, 2013, 11:11:56 amNope.The tip on my metcal clone is shiny just like new and this is in a job where I do lead free soldering every day.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2013, 12:31:45 pm
content: I've seen irons with tips that work perfect for the first few days or weeks then turn horrible and require constant heavy duty cleaning every time you use them.It seems quite random, sometimes it's the cheap ones and other times its the official brandname tip from a certified agent. Dad had a Goot iron and the tip on that was simply awful. (Perhaps these are tips that come pre-tinned with leadfree)However i've never come across any terrible tips in the hakko 900M style, even among aftermarket versions.The 3rd party 900M tips definitely don't last as long or work quite as well but they always stay tinned and work satisfactorily.Quote from: NANDBlog on September 08, 2013, 11:11:56 amYep, i've only ever used leaded solder. Luckily i've never encountered a situation that required lead-free

author: superscott319
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2013, 05:12:04 am
content: Thanks for the advice everyone. I think I'll try one of these tip activators out and see if they can restore some of my oxidized soldering iron tips.A few of them were used in lead-free work and at the time I didn't know proper tinning procedures, so they're in really bad shape. I included a photo of the result below:Do you think there's any chance of bringing a tip this badly oxidized back using a tip activator or something else?

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2013, 07:49:45 am
content: It's hard to tell from a picture but it looks a bit like the iron plating has flaked off in places exposing the metal underneath. There is also a remarkable lack of flux residue and discoloration around the neck. The tip looks for all the world as if it has never seen any solder or flux...

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2013, 08:08:41 am
content: Yeah, that tip looks stuffed. I don't think you'll be able to fix that.As IanB said, the coating looks to have burnt/worn/corroded off.That's the kind of thing you might see happening to a tip if plumbers solder, or anything with non electronic flux, was used with it.You said you only recently started soldering, where did you get the solder your using from?If someone gave it to you it may not actually be electronic solder.Post a pic of the reel and we can probably confirm.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2013, 10:53:11 am
content: Here's one of my tips showing how you would expect it to be completely covered in solder. Looking at this one close up the flat surfaces seem a bit rough and uneven so I think I may have damaged it with some abuse at some point. When it was new I'm sure the surfaces would have been smooth.

author: F4CPY
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2013, 11:21:31 am
content: hiI use this kit:http://uk.farnell.com/weller/0051512699/kit-tip-maintenance/dp/1378426The brass wool is very efficient and provide a perfect cleanning.

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2013, 01:55:12 pm
content: Clean and then tin your tip each time you pick the iron up or before you put it down. The iron should NEVER be in the stand without a tinned tip (I.e. never wipe it on the sponge and put it in the holder). That way the solder on the surface oxidizes, rather than the tip itself.

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2013, 03:04:36 pm
content: That tip looks like it has been seriously over heated and exposed to water which has blasted off the iron plating, it could also be the result of poor plating in the first place so may be nothing to do with the user other than buying a cheap tip in the first place. I would bin that one and get some new ones of known quality, then only use leaded solder don't bother with lead free until you feel confident with your soldering, learning to solder with lead free is a bit like trying to learn to ride a bike with a pack full of bricks on your back.

author: superscott319
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2013, 06:27:01 pm
content: Quote from: IanB on September 13, 2013, 07:49:45 amThe only solder this one has seen was lead-free, although it did have a flux core. I think you're right about the iron plating flaking off which I assume makes it not repairable.Quote from: Psi on September 13, 2013, 08:08:41 amThis was the first tip I started using when I bought my first soldering station, so I've made quite a few mistakes with it. At the time this soldering station seemed like a good value but it getting it was a bit risky being that it's from a relatively unknown brand and it appears replacing just one tip will cost $30 USD.I think this is electronic solder and likely lead-free. A few tubes like the one shown below came with a cheap PC repair toolkit I bought but they were unmarked and only listed as "solder reel" on the box.Quote from: F4CPY on September 13, 2013, 11:21:31 amI recently bought a brass wool tip cleaner and it does seem better at cleaning the tip than the sponge.Quote from: ConKbot on September 13, 2013, 01:55:12 pmI've been doing this totally wrong the whole time then. After soldering something, I would first clean it off using a wet sponge then place it back in the holder for sometimes long periods of time. To make things worse, the temperature was often set very high while it sat there without being tinned. I'll be sure to tin the tip before putting it back from now on.Quote from: G7PSK on September 13, 2013, 03:04:36 pmBetween using cheap lead-free solder, minimal flux, high temperatures for long periods of time, cleaning the tip with a wet sponge and not tinning afterwards, I doubt this is the tip's fault. However it was manufactured by a relatively unknown brand, so that could also be a problem.Looks like I've learned the hard way how to properly maintain a soldering iron tip but now I'm beginning to understand. Thanks again for the help everyone.

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2013, 08:32:13 pm
content: I think that $30.00 for a tip is a bit high, the tip you have shown looks like an Aoyue tip, most likely a clone you can get tips quite cheaply, £3.00 in the UK on ebay.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aoyue-T-3-2LD-Bevel-Solder-Iron-Tip-for-936-937-768-968-/290963195513?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item43bec20679And clones even cheaper.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-REPLACEMENT-SOLDERING-IRON-TIP-FOR-AOYUE-968-936-KADA-SOLDER-STATION-/251063918984?pt=

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 14, 2013, 09:05:39 am
content: So an off-brand tip for Aoyue is now considered a clone? Unlike the Aoyue tip?

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2013, 12:02:58 pm
content: It looks like a generic 900M tip My Aoyue 968 and Hakko 888 can fit 900M with no probs.You should be able to find somewhere local for cheaper than $30Even the expensive commercial electronics stores near me only charge $10-20 for a genuine Hakko 900M tip.I wouldn't spend less than $5, any cheaper and you have to start wondering about the quality.But really, since your just getting into soldering, maybe get one of those cheap 10 packs.I got a 10pack of Aoyue tips and they seem to work perfectly fine.