Adhesive, sealant, goo, glue, epoxy,  non-conductive, mechanical stability - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 03:07:52 am
content: Think of an electric guitar plug but instead of just soldering the leads on and replacing the screw-on cover I'd like to find something that is non-conductive and mechanically stable to cover the soldered leads that I could use either with or without the final screw-on cover. I'm not sure if there's an RTV that's suitable and was hoping one of you all know a good solution. I saw mention of dow-corning 732 but don't know how mechnically stable that is.Have you ever made a plug covering as described? One that can sustain mechanical pushing/pulling? I guess I'm asking about how to mold my own connector covering.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 06:35:48 am
content: That is an acetoxy cure silicone, and releases acetic acid ( vinegar smell) during curing, which will corrode through copper in a few days.You can use an acetoxy free silicone, which is sold for use on electronics. Otherwise a 2 part flexible polyurethane will work there, or even the isocyanate single part polyurethane sealers like Sika 11.

author: bench_knob
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 07:34:23 am
content: Quote from: GiskardReventlov on March 29, 2014, 03:07:52 amHeya,There is a really neato glue which is sold in the US through the RiteAide pharmacy chain stores, its called, heh heh, "Goop". It comes in a fat toothpaste size metal toothpast 'tube' and here in the States it goes for around $3.50 U$. It sets-up in about 5 to 10 minutes depending on temperature, and cures semi-translucent, flexible, and its tough. I have nearly stopped using all other glues in my projects. The only problem with this Goop, is getting it off, when cured....its tough.If you plan to backfill a guitar connector with it, don't plan on taking anything out of the Goop after it cures.Its a bit smelly when its curing, but it cures in about 12 hours, but I often use articles within 1/2 hour or so of Gooping it up. It sticks well to just about anything that doesn't have a wet or powdery surface. I fixed the basin of my shower-stall when it developed a big crack. I pushed the crack apart vertically and then squeezed in the goop, and then finger munged a bead over the top of the crack. It held until I got around to hiring a contractor to replace the shower basin, about six months later. I used the shower everyday, hot & cold water. I've used Goop to fix eye-glass temples, glue the back on cell-phones to belt-holsters (they snag on things and off snaps the cellphone back-cover, not with Goop!), I cut-open wall warts to put in a LED and miniature power-toggle switch, glue it back-togther with Goop.But more to your point....a couple of times I created a cable strain-relief, by simply putting a cable through a larger diameter heat-shrink tube and then back-filling with Goop, it cures inside the heat-shrink. One time I greased the inside of the heatshrink with molybedyum (white) gear grease (acts as a 'mold' release), and then back-filled the tube. After the Goop cured, I used a razor blade to cut off the shrink tube, which came off easily.Try it, you might like it. It delivers the goods baybee!Ok, here's some info:http://www.eclecticproducts.com/ag_adhesives_epoxies.htmWhile 'Amazing Goop" product is not listed on their website, this is the company where I buy the "Amazing Goop":https://www.riteaid.com/bench knob

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 08:06:57 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on March 29, 2014, 06:35:48 amGreat tip on that sealant, I need to avoid that stuff!I like the polyurethane idea, I think of skateboard wheels when I hear that, they're tough.

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 08:13:29 pm
content: @bench_knob, I've heard of Goop, I will check out what it's made from. See the message from SeanB about that sealant with acid in it.

author: ampdoctor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 11:09:39 pm
content: Assuming you're going to be using this for a guitar cord, my recommendation is not to waste your time. If the cable is expected to see uniquely rough handling, no matter what you do the conductor will break sooner or later, and the failure location is rarely at the jack if you've assembled it correctly. All you're going to do is make it impossible to reuse that connector down the road.

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 02:17:21 am
content: This looked good except the price! $20 for 50ml!http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=DP270-BLACK-50ML&vendor=19I am not sure what kind of handling characteristics it has either. e.g. Could I make a knob using this in a mold?

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 02:19:22 am
content: Quote from: ampdoctor on March 29, 2014, 11:09:39 pmHa! Ok I will give up!Wait I can't, I'm unable.

author: ampdoctor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 03:03:17 am
content: Quote from: GiskardReventlov on April 06, 2014, 02:19:22 amWhat the hell...go for it! Worst that could happen is you'll learn something.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 04:02:41 am
content: Video I did on goop

author: 6E5
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 04:31:30 am
content: Have you looked at JB Weld?

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 04:42:00 am
content: @6E5, I will check out JBweld, my min concerns are corrosiveness and mechanical stability.@robrenz, will check the video, goo was mentioned before and I haven't looked at it yet.

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 05:50:08 am
content: if your gonna glue some thing glue on a strain relief spring too.reinforce your card house!

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 02:15:31 pm
content: Quote from: GiskardReventlov on April 06, 2014, 04:42:00 amJBweld isgenerallynon conductive but invery thinlayers it will conduct very well so be carefull.You can add carbon black to the goop to make it opaque and more professional looking as a strain relief.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 03:22:55 pm
content: Carbon black will make it slightly conductive, and will make it electrically noisy. Most of the times a strain relief spring or sleeve on the cable is going to work better, as the cable will break just outside the connector where it flexes the most. You do get those 1/4 inch plugs with a strain relief spring at the cable end, use those on the guitar end where it flexes the most. just heatshrink the cable and connector so that the cable is gripped before the spring and it will last longer, and if you do both ends the same you can cut off the broken side and use the other end with a regular plug until you make up a new lead set.If you are doing this in a live band always have at least 2 leads with new plugs on both ends so you can quickly plug in a spare one on stage. Keep the new one in a plastic bag in the guitar case and have the regular one with the other cables.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 04:00:38 pm
content: According tothiscarbon black is routinely used in wire insulation. It takes an extremely small concentrations to achieve a very opaque black.

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 04:25:22 pm
content: goop - UV resistance: NoneSo for this application I'm going to pass on goopI'm not sure on JB weld, still need to look some more.

author: samcramer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 04:46:16 pm
content: Quote from: GiskardReventlov on April 06, 2014, 04:25:22 pmIn Robrenz's "Secrets of Goop" video () at about 9:40 he explains that the "Lawn and Garden" variety of Goop contains a UV inhibitor.

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 05:59:41 pm
content: Due to following properties jbweld is ruled out too.From the FAQ --http://www.jbweld.com/faqs/"Is there anything that J-B Weld WON’T bond to?J-B Weld will not adhere or bond well to:Any flexible rubber surfaceLeatherVinylCanvasPolypropylene plasticPolyethylene plastic"

author: seb30
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2017, 07:34:02 am
content: Just to add some words on the topic, because I had the issue a few days ago,NEVER use acetoxy RTV silicon in electronic or with metal piece (copper..) nearby,they will be corroded, especially since you use the silicon in closed space like à casing.On PCB, your copper track will literally disapear from the board !Use Dow Corning 744.

author: alanb
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2017, 11:57:56 am
content: https://sugru.com