Show your favorite and most used benchtop PSU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2012, 05:26:05 pm
content: While doing minor cleaning & housekeeping on my bench table, when I was arranging things & moving stuffs around, was a bit struggled when I lifted my favorite and mostly used bench psu which it's weight about 14 Kg / 31 lbs, then suddenly remembered that this forum has no bench psu thread like the popular one "Show your Multimeter!" thread, took snapshots and here we are.If you have more than one or too many like Dave does, just post one or two that you "mostly used" when you're tinkering with electronic projects/circuits. Presumably its is adjustable type, and diy type is also welcome.Please, post & share the photo of yours, and your own comment about it as well.Let me start mine, a 36 volt 10 Amps Japanese linear bench psu Kenwood PD36-10AD (Link), probably made around late 80s or early 90s.Like :- The auto emergency shutdown feature (crowbar ?), if the voltage rail crossed the adjustable OVP limit, the power switch will snap mechanically to off position instantly.- Very low over shoot in CC mode when turning ON the output, it won't toast a led like the example attached photo below, really love this particular feature. Remember, this is a 10 Amps capable beast.Dislike :- Its so damn heavy and did I say its expensive ?... looking at the back of my shoulder just in case wifey is peeking- Although its working perfectly fine, but still feeling uncomfortable cause there is no service manual available like those cool & great HP (Agilent) bench PSU series.Front & rear shots, the rear has all those terminals for many features like parallel/series connection, remote sensing, external reference (volt or resistance) for voltage and current loop, remote output on/off and etc.Now, your turn..PS : Please, resize the photo like 1024 or max 1280 pixels wide, not the raw huuuge sized photo directly from your camera. Also its highly recommended to use the attachment feature to embed photo in your own post like I did here, rather than using external hosting, why ? A nasty example on the 1st post, image at external hosting simply sucks ->HEREThe attach picture feature is right below the dialog box where you type your post.

author: grenert
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 01:31:46 am
content: I have some bigger and better power supplies, but I use a tiny little folding table as a "bench," so this is the one that sits there most of the time. It is an HP 6236B triple output supply. It is + and - 0-20V tracking (goes up to +/-25 V, but not spec'ed at 25 V), with an isolated 0-6V. I replaced the little knobs that it originally had with some larger ones to make fine adjustments easier. It has what HP called "current limiting," but if you look in the schematic, you can see that that limit is actually adjustable to some extent by internal potentiometers I've highlighted. I removed the original trim pots and brought the PCB connections up to locking Clarostat trim pots I've mounted on the top panel. It allows adjustment from 0-750 mA on the 20V channels. The supply is spec'ed to 500 mA on those channels, but it is fine for at least a little while with higher currents. Practically everything I use it for is low current, so most of the time I actually have it turned down to about 200 mA.EDIT December 21, 2012:Added another picture with my latest mod. I inserted a couple of thin PCBs with white SMDs over the meters to provide an illuminated display. They are powered by the +7.5 V and -12.4 V reference supplies, giving about 20V for the LEDs. They draw only 20 mA, so no effect on the performance of the supply.I also have an Elenco XP-720K that has a special spot because I built it myself (and modified it with 10-turn pots and a relay to turn outputs on and off), but no pictures here because I don't want to hear the litany of complaints that you can't build a bench supply with the LM317!

author: raymohi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 01:54:42 am
content: My Korad KA3005D. It suits my needs.

author: leniwiec
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 02:43:39 am
content: Not my best but most sentimental one. Early 80` DIY psu, 0-80V 600mA. No abs/pcv at those days, knobs/meters and front was made from ebonite ;-)

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 03:12:02 am
content: Quote from: grenert on December 10, 2012, 01:31:46 amYeah, there are swarming psu Nazis lurking around here that will bash every adjustable bench psu built from LM317 to death.Heck, let alone the LM317, infact when I started my electronic hobby long time ago, I used 7815 and 7915 chips and made them into "adjustable" pos and neg supply and it served me well.@leniwiec,Wow, ebonite panel, cool classic diy look and the retro style.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 05:13:37 am
content: I use a simple (Actually quite complicated inside) but hardy and certainly quite low-noise as well as decent stabilityNo remote sensing but ah well i could use the DVM inputsNot as complicated as the PSUs you big boys have but i am content

author: bullet308
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 05:28:29 am
content: A vintage HP 6200B, just like the one below. I have a couple of others, but this one gets 95% of the work.

author: Thomas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 05:26:25 pm
content: TTi EL302RT2x 30V 2A plus a 1.5-5V 2A Aux channel.What I like:1mA resolution on ampere meters - decent accuracy too.Output switches.Ampere meters show current limit when output is OFF.Logarithmic current limit potentiometers - makes it easy to set small currents.What I don't like:The tail is missing on the '9' characterSo - no real issuesI don't even mind the Fine and Coarse voltage potentiometers. I just center the Fine, adjust the Coarse for the right ballpark, and fine tune if necessary.Seems to be good quality, no nasty habits.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2012, 06:30:45 am
content: Quote from: Thomas on December 10, 2012, 05:26:25 pmThis is new to me, curious how it works ? Is that like a rotary encoder that increase/decrease the steps according the speed of the rotation ?Quote from: Thomas on December 10, 2012, 05:26:25 pmThis reminds me of the old day when using 7447 chip, its a BCD to 7 segment decoder, had to hack some connection to make it displays the tail for 9 and 6 font.

author: Shuggsy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2012, 07:01:09 am
content: Quote from: grenert on December 10, 2012, 01:31:46 amVery cool, and nice mods! I love the new current-limiting pots. If you can keep the back heatsink cool, you should be able to push the currents even more if you need to. NiceI recently brought a busted 6238B back to life and it's become my go-to PSU for most of my tasks. I also have a MASTECH HY3005D-3 which has two 0-30V@0-5A outputs which can be put in series or parallel by means of the center switches on the front. Nice for the higher-power tasks, but as I said most of my work has been using the 6238B recently.As a future mod, I'd like to replace the pots in the HY3005D-3 with 10-turn varieties to give me much finer control of the voltage and current-limiting.

author: Thomas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2012, 07:05:15 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on December 11, 2012, 06:30:45 amThese are analog potentiometers, not encoders. These are still available with logarithmic track, I think? Probably not as common as the used to, but still.Anyway, they work really good. I can easily set the current to single digit mA figures up to about 500mA. Of course, I loose the fine resolution at the high end, but that's not a problem.Quote from: BravoV on December 11, 2012, 06:30:45 amYeah, this has an Microchip PIC on each display, so it could (and should!) be corrected in software.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2012, 07:28:38 am
content: It's a real log pot then, does your pot go up slowly at the first 30 degrees? Because mine doesAnd then it jumps like a mad jack after that and well at the higher-end it acts like the first 120 degrees which indicates a reverse log pot

author: steve30
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2012, 09:55:09 am
content: Since I don't have anything better at the moment, it'll have to be this one:

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2012, 01:02:18 pm
content: I don't have a favorite but I do use the HP (top) the most. The second one down I use to power digital circuits. My little Tektronix rack (#3) has a nice clean dual tracking power supply plug-in thats wired in to the Tek DMM through the rack which is convenient.The old Kerco DC power supply on the bottom is the workhorse when I need lots of current to accidentally blow things up.

author: Nirios
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2012, 03:58:17 pm
content: My favorite and only power supply.HP 6227B

author: M0BSW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2012, 08:39:24 pm
content: This is mine, Watson 0-15v Amps at max 35 the volts adjust control has a key at 13.8 , used for all my amateur radio electronics, very reliable, and had many offers for it, I orginally used it on Kenwood 850 DSP.

author: slowtwitch
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 11, 2012, 11:20:16 pm
content: I probably have about 12 different power supplies laying around, but these two are used the most...The work horse of the bunch..a Hp 6286..and for the finer things.... a Power Designs TW5005W...pete

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2012, 06:44:30 am
content: I have a few PSU's but this homebrew beast gets 99,9% of the work.It's a dual 0-32V / 0-5A unit, the circuit is based on Elektor's 1982 design but heavily modified to get it stable under all load conditions.

author: cwalex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2012, 07:30:41 am
content: Quote from: david77 on December 16, 2012, 06:44:30 amLooks really niceI love the green displays. Did you use blank PCB material for the case?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2012, 07:43:57 am
content: Looks like blank PCB for sure. Very nice looking unit, love the old C core transformer you used in it. All the advantages of a toroid with the convenience of a bobbin as well.

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2012, 07:45:04 am
content: Yup, lightly brushed & varnished copper clad FR4 PCB material is really nice for making cases. I've got a load of the stuff for nearly nix from a board manufacturer some years ago.

author: kripton2035
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2012, 12:39:40 pm
content: mine is an hameg 7042 triple power supply - 2 x 32v@2A and 2.7-5.5V@3AI really like it - bought used from ebay.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2012, 04:22:03 am
content: Quote from: david77 on December 16, 2012, 06:44:30 amDavid77, the front panel looks great and neat layout you've made there, impressive !About the case design, the technique using big heatsinks on side with pcb inpires me for my next psu build, thank you.PS : Any chance you could take few snap shots internally and also externally please ? Really curious.Quote from: SeanB on December 16, 2012, 07:43:57 amWhat is so special about this C core transformer ? Its quite rare isn't it ?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2012, 04:55:54 am
content: They are very good regulation and power wise, but are difficult to manufacture as they are wound, bound and epoxied then slit in two parts. They have very low noise and no external magnetic fiels worth mentioning, and can be wound on a standard winding machine to give multiple windings with ease.

author: torch
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2012, 03:56:36 pm
content: Well my favourite, in terms of precision is this one that I built:Not as robust as many shown above, I admit. It can only supply about 25 watts. The variable output is controlled by a 20-turn pot and the voltage readout is reasonably close. For quick use and/or a second leg, there's 12, 5 and 3.3 regulated fixed outputs and a choice of floating or chassis ground. The current reading is total of all outputs and is more of a rough guide than a laboratory standard.However, the most used is probably this 190 watt baby, 'cause the whole family uses it -- even the grandkids!

author: MikeK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2012, 01:11:43 am
content: That's an awesome looking supply, I love it!

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2012, 01:00:53 pm
content: Quote from: torch on December 18, 2012, 03:56:36 pmOk, I give up and still puzzled, is that a dc power supply ? I can see the selector from 0 to 20 volt though. Also two direction knobs ? and the red handle for A-whistle-B ? Really, I'm lost.From the look, must be very-very old, prolly dated back to WW II era ?

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2012, 01:04:38 pm
content: I'd say that's a model railway setup there and that's why even the grandkids use it, right?@ BravoV: Thank you. I'll post some more pics & info later today.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2012, 01:42:01 pm
content: Quote from: david77 on December 19, 2012, 01:04:38 pmHa. ha. I'm such a noob, missed the grandkid clue.Thanks for the upcoming pics of your psu, can't wait to see the constructuon in detail.

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2012, 08:43:38 pm
content: As promised some info on my home made power supply.As I said it's based on Elektor's lab PSU design from 1982, there's nothing special or fancy about it at all. I chose this design because I had the ideal transformer for it to hand. My former employer had a few of those ancient monster C core trannies that they sold for a really good price, it's got 2x29V/6A and 4x11V/1,6A secondaries which was perfect for the circuit published by Elektor in 1982.The case is also home made as I could not find a reasonably priced case that suited my needs, this was supposed to be a low cost project and I didn't want to spend over 100 Euros only for the case. So I hit upon the idea to use the heatsinks as sides, that has been done before so why not? I had to buy them anyway as worst case dissipation is above 150W per supply if I recall correctly. They were the most expensive part of the whole design. I'm using 4x 2N3055 per supply, so this thing makes for a pretty good heater as well- no switching of secondaries here and it is capable of 5A @ 1V over long periods, I have tried it.Initially I built it using four analog meters, but as you all know good ones cost a pretty penny so I skimped and bought the cheapest chinese crap I could find - they claimed 2,5% full scale accuracy but turned out to be more like 3-6% all ofer the scale.Later I converted it to digital displays using the good old 7106. That turned out to not be as easy as I imagined - there is a separate transformer and four DC/DC converters in there just to get the displays going. Luckily the DC/DC converters were part of a load of huge boxes of electronic components I got for free.About two years ago I wanted to power a car headlight (H4, 55W) and while doing that the one supply died. Magic smoke came out and that was it.While investigating what had happened I found that it oscillated violently under heavy loads and some resistors in the original design were not specced powerful enough. I don't know if the original design using the proper PCB and cleaner wiring would behave the same but my tests lead me to think it's possible.I ripped it apart, replaced the burnt out resistors, a died 2N3055 and placed small caps in the feedback loops of the two opamps to get rid of the oscillations. After some trial and error that worked and no matter what kind of load I hooked up it was now totally stable.I also replaced my original hand wound current sense "resistors" (really just a coiled piece of copper wire) with precision resistors which cured some annoying inaccuracy with the amps meters.That was when I took the pics attached below.Since then I also had to replace the low quality coarse voltage pots with high grade sealed units as the originals got a bit scratchy and this supply has the annoying habit to go full voltage when the wiper looses contact - not well designed!All in all it works pretty well and apart from that one time it never played up. I've abused quite a bit - charging the car battery in a snow storm at -15°C with 2x5A and such things...Total cost was an estimated 100 to 120 EUR.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2012, 05:45:16 pm
content: David77, thanks a lot for the pics and the story too, really appreciate it.The copper front panel + the green leds really matched each other since oxidized copper is green, really cool and nice looking steampunk style panel, love it.About the circuit, I'm guessing from that era, its using the popular 723 chip ? What is the base made from ? Thick metal bar or strong and thick wooden plank ? Not very clear from the pics.Look at that huge C core transformer, I think my Kenwood PSU has it and quite big if my memory serves me well, apart from the main huge E-I core transformer, wonder whats the purpose ? I will take a shot on the auxiliary C core transformer in it if I had a chance.

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2012, 07:22:55 pm
content: Steampunk?The base and also the lid are made from some special sort of plywood, it's impregnated with something that makes it absolutely water proof and gives it a dark brown finish, sorry don't know what it's called in English.There are 723's in there, yes. But they're only used as voltage references (7,15V). The actual control circuitry is built around two good old 741's.

author: Madsaaby
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2012, 07:48:35 pm
content: HiMy, at the time, most used PSU!HP / Agilent E3632a0-15V @ 7A0-30V @ 4A1 mV and 1 mA res.The only dislikes are:Loud fan..And I think it is too much "work" just set the Voltage and amp. I prefere the analog style where you just turn the damn knob.- MadsI posted photos + a small video here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hp-agilent-e3632a-120w-supply/

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2012, 10:36:17 pm
content: Are you shorting the output measuring current?

author: Madsaaby
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2012, 12:10:44 am
content: Quote from: SLJ on December 23, 2012, 10:36:17 pmYes..

author: FenderBender
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2012, 12:51:26 am
content: Quote from: Madsaaby on December 24, 2012, 12:10:44 amBadass

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2012, 01:14:39 am
content: Quote from: Madsaaby on December 24, 2012, 12:10:44 amI've got one I dare do that with but it's not the HP....

author: Madsaaby
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2012, 01:42:50 am
content: Quote from: SLJ on December 24, 2012, 01:14:39 amWell, as long as the current is limited, there should be nothing wrong with doing that..- Mads

author: Madsaaby
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2012, 01:47:53 am
content: Quote from: FenderBender on December 24, 2012, 12:51:26 amSooooooo bad-Mads

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2012, 02:59:31 am
content: I got couple PSU’s on my bench, they are grouped up together.I use my Xantrex for fine work mostly.My favorite one is still old EA-4000, simply because it has everything I want:AC from 0 to 240v and permanent leads 3v, 12v, 18v and 24v (2A)DC till 30v 3A and permanent 5v 1AEverything is nicely fused, it is big and heavy but still worth itHere whole group together, on top shelf the Voltcraft one is my “portable” PSU if I need it somewhere else than on my bench.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2012, 06:48:16 am
content: Quote from: Madsaaby on December 24, 2012, 01:42:50 amYep, as long the PSU design and implementation is "properly" done, nothing to be scared of. I always did this test on every new acquired DMM or PSUs that have CC loop in the past either newly purchased or self built.Just fyi, on cheap DMM that just using a piece of random thick wire as the shunt resistor for high current scale, let alone 10 Amps, sometimes even at < 5 Amps the accuracy will drift so bad once that wire is heated.

author: reagle
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 31, 2012, 11:36:56 pm
content: Here are my two supplies. The one used daily is a BK 1698, picked off ebay and arriving with damaged front posts. Nothing some epoxy and a set of posts from RatShack store couldn't fixIt's mostly well behaving, though setting limits is a pain and the fan gets noisy.he secondary supply is an analog Tenma

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2013, 01:30:20 am
content: Currently my only linear power supply, a Tenma 72-8695.But planning to convert the power supply in the second picture to a 1.25-5v 7-10A , 5v-12v 3A (maybe up to 15v?) power supply. It's an old Delta 100w psu, 5v @ 13.5A , 12v @ 4.5A. Should be fairly easy to mod it to boost the voltages a bit.

author: SirDan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2013, 09:09:38 pm
content: My 100v super cooker.

author: Madsaaby
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2013, 09:33:03 pm
content: Quote from: SirDan on January 01, 2013, 09:09:38 pmThat's a beauty! I just love the look of those Power Designs supplies-Mads

author: mianchen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2013, 11:30:16 pm
content: I used to use this one a lot:Then I got this one from eBay for cheap, and I've been using this one more recently.There are a few DIY ones I like but without proper enclosure they are very messy to use.

author: Rick
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2013, 11:53:30 pm
content: Quote from: Madsaaby on December 24, 2012, 01:42:50 amBut the output was off, and the UT-61E was in the Hold mode showing the previously measured current, right?Otherwise how can you have 10 V displayed while the output is shorted?

author: Madsaaby
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 12:55:03 am
content: Quote from: Rick on January 01, 2013, 11:53:30 pmNopeThe supply was outputting 3 amps at 0.something volts, but just showing the set values..-Mads

author: FenderBender
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 01:39:18 am
content: Quote from: SirDan on January 01, 2013, 09:09:38 pm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!TRANSISTORIZED POWER SUPPLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

author: HardBoot
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 06:13:26 am
content: Is it bad my most commonly used power supply is a $20 12v computer supply with a filter and adjustable linear reg(10-turn pot fuck yeah) attached to a multimeter? More accurate than $150 benchtops, and keeps my desk warm...

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 09:07:39 am
content: Lots of updates.Quote from: HardBoot on January 02, 2013, 06:13:26 amWhere is the pic ?As long it serves your purpose and you are fully aware it's limitation, its perfectly fine, you should be proud of it and nothing to be embarrassed, pic please.

author: Rick
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 12:56:27 pm
content: Quote from: AcHmed99 on January 02, 2013, 12:24:22 amYes, as you saw earlier he has special square cables for power dissipation (supposedly for heating his bench top) with apparently a resistance of 3,33 OhmsQuote from: AcHmed99 on January 02, 2013, 12:24:22 amNo it's the leads

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 01:06:53 pm
content: I love my Instek GPS-4303; albeit I rarely use the two non-current-limiting outputs. Plus have a look at the torroid coil in this baby!

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 01:08:15 pm
content: One of my (2) PD 2005A's also have (2) 2020B's and a 2010 most awesome power suppies. But my most used is the Mastech GPC3030D

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 01:12:26 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on January 02, 2013, 01:06:53 pmThat.. looks exactly the same as the PSM series PSUs (look up, mianchen has a 3/5, I got a 2/2) on the inside.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 04:12:28 am
content: Quote from: Rick on January 02, 2013, 12:56:27 pmHa..ha.. I just noticed that square cables, looks very unusual especially in the electronic measurement domain.Quote from: robrenz on January 02, 2013, 01:08:15 pmI can see there is an oven lamp there and aware this is a precision psu, just curious if it needs to be turned on for quite some time to get the output stability ?

author: Madsaaby
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2013, 04:02:46 am
content: Quote from: Rick on January 02, 2013, 12:56:27 pm...

author: Ferroto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 07:52:36 pm
content: my bench PSU is an ATX power supply.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 09:46:50 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on January 03, 2013, 04:12:28 amIf it is plugged in the oven is on even though the power switch is off so you can use it instantly. If you plug it in cold it takes about 20 mins. to warm up. They are incredibly stable as seen inthis thread

author: mianchen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2013, 03:59:17 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on January 02, 2013, 01:08:15 pmSexy! Too bad I've been lurking eBay for 6 months and never seen one or similar ones for sale in the UK.

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2013, 12:51:27 am
content: Hi,Here is my favourite power supply. It is a HP 6554A.Maximum voltage 60VMaximum current 9AVery Accurate.Jay_Diddy_B

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2013, 07:50:14 pm
content: The rest of the family:2 PD 2005A, PD 2010,2 PD 2020BMastech GPC3030D Revlectrix 13.8V 28A switcherTwins, 20V-10A 4 quadrant supplies. Think a Mega Opamp with 20kHz bandwidth but capable of + or - DC output also.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 08:01:21 am
content: I thought you would the kind of man to mill a new knob for the 4Q PSUs, they look like a understatement and just doesn't have the look of the rest of the PSU

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 12:55:55 pm
content: I agree but I would buy them. I only enjoy making things I can't buy

author: (In)Sanity
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 01:58:17 pm
content: After blowing the snot out of my previous PSU to the point that a new circuit board would be needed I opted to home brew. My current single output PSU is not worth a photo. It literally is all over the bench without a case. It's 100% home brew from the ground up. It originated in LTSpice and has worked it's way up. Depending on the transformer I use it can do 2mv to 30 volts. 2mv at the moment due to LM324 op-amp. The current limit is from 2ma to 6 amps or more if I want to use a larger transformer and driver(s).When done I'll have dual isolated outputs with 0-20 volts (or 0-30) @ 6 amps. Current limited down to at least 1 ma and resolution of at least 16 bits. It will have two identical supplies in one case with two inverted blue back-lit LCD displays. The setting will be via speed sensitive rotary encoders, one for voltage and one for current. Chances are I'll toss in some 78xx regulators just for a few more outputs. Because the supplies will be isolated it could be bridged together if needed. I'm not sure I'll go for dual tracking however, guess I could with some optical isolationThe displays will show voltage and current with 16 bit resolution as well as wattage and perhaps peak current from the last xx minutes. Trying to keep it down to the 4 rotary encoders as well as main power switch and output enable switches.It will be a modular design with transformer followed by rectifier and main filter then a board for the regulator/current limit which will be feed from another board that does the LCD, rotary encoders and DAC / ADC's. This will be copied twice to obtain two supplies in one case. I'm trying to avoid buttons for the moment. Unless you have a machine shop home brew cases can be a bit annoying.

author: AlphZeta
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 06:42:10 pm
content: I got a Topward 6603A, dual 60V 3A power supply a while ago (did a teardown herehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/topward-6603a-linear-power-supply-teardown/), and I really like the build quality.I have since upgraded it by adding in a fan controller and I have also replaced the 2 100V 4700uF DC filter caps with 2 100V 10,000uF ones.

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 07:35:42 pm
content: One from me also.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2013, 02:29:57 am
content: Quote from: robrenz on February 06, 2013, 12:55:55 pmThis, had made a lot of fellows here ruined their keyboard because of excessive drool dripping on it when watching your excellent craftsmanship.Btw, I still drooling seeing that fine diy kelvin clips of yours.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2013, 03:00:56 am
content: Thanks, I am glad you guys are enjoying them. I have lots more to come.

author: grenert
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2013, 04:43:24 am
content: Quote from: robrenz on February 07, 2013, 03:00:56 amCould it involve thesecondmicro-ohmmeter I see on your rack?You might be the first "ohm-nut"

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2013, 01:04:03 pm
content: It will be my double 8 decade resistance boxes. Lots of videos on all aspects of the design and construction.I won't respond to any questions so to not get this thread any more off topic.

author: dimlow
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2013, 08:30:35 am
content: This is the best i can afford, i use the 9V battery when i need a stable supply.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2013, 08:50:24 am
content: Quote from: dimlow on February 18, 2013, 08:30:35 amDon't know why, I just don't believe that you can't afford better one if you really want to, after looking at those few "serious" big boxes beside your psus in the photo.Thanks for posting yours.

author: dimlow
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2013, 08:58:23 am
content: The big boxes where very cheap second hand units. The most expensive bit of kit i have it a Rigol DS1052E. I am looking at buying a konrad supply ( the one that busted in Dave's review), at least with that i will be able to set an output voltage digitally.

author: PA4TIM
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2013, 10:32:37 am
content: Most used ones are 4, this Philips PM2811. Current shows -0.03 but that is fixed to at this moment.Modified 1974 electuur powersupply :The most cute:Modified Delta 30V 10ABesides that I have psus up to 2000VDC ( but they are 1 to 5 mA), a huge 50kilo box with no terminals but a few fixed (-6,12,18V and can be coupled to get for instance 24V by using -6 and 18. powerrails. Ex army, no clue about the amps but it should be very high, the former owner powered all his green transmitters and reciveivers from this one supply.This is my "mean machine" own design dynmic load to get constant current, can do over 10A and about 30V if I want. There is a LM317 to set the voltage for the gates of 3 HEXFETs, the load is also 3 of those IFRZ256 the electronics regulate the voltage on top of the load. So it compenstates the coltdrop over the current regulator. It can be used as dynamic load or for instance pulsating battery charger. The ugly cabinet was an old French noise generator. Stil worked but it was not very usefull. Pronably some jammer. It had in a test over 1000V output in a load and with only a short pin in my SA as antenna it was full screen beyond 1GHz. I use it a lot to cycle my back up batteries in my lab

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2013, 05:00:41 pm
content: Quote from: PA4TIM on February 18, 2013, 10:32:37 amHmm, that flat thingy with VFDs, what's that meter? Looks nice

author: PA4TIM
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2013, 05:30:06 pm
content: Just a photo of a Keithley 2000 display showing the output of the PM and photoshopped in the picture

author: Jonny
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 02:03:13 am
content: My only supply which doubles as a car battery charger. 3-30V 10A with overload protection. Pretty basic, and the multi-turn pot is cheap, has been cleaned once but got scratchy again in a short amount of time.

author: mzzj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 09:41:39 am
content: Currently I have 8 of these (this is what I would call total overkill)+HP 6633A+ Delta elektronika 300V 4A+ old homebrew analog power supply

author: jancumps
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 10:37:50 am
content: Quote from: PA4TIM on February 18, 2013, 10:32:37 amAh, the legendary holland power supply brand. Good to see one.

author: PA4TIM
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 12:34:11 pm
content: Yep, this is the SMPS version, and there support is great. If you have a 30 year old one and have a poblem and mail them for a schematic they send you one. I am active on a Duch foum and as soon as someone has a problem with a Delta ( very rare) the guys from Delta support log in and answer the questions them selves.I love those HPs, i once almost bought one but one of the the problems was it had no banana terminals or other connections on the front.Fred

author: mzzj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 04:46:16 pm
content: Quote from: PA4TIM on February 22, 2013, 12:34:11 pmPretty easy to install by yourself. Just don't buy them from Agilent, they are bloody expensive as extra option. 6632B-series have pre-made holes on the front, just stick a hole with a x-acto knife and you are good to go.I love the 663xB series because of their ability to sink current and act as a DC-load. And did I mention accuracyFor 120 euros they are absolute bargain in terms of accuracy and features.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 05:09:50 pm
content: Quote from: mzzj on February 22, 2013, 04:46:16 pmConfirmed, I've been stalking this series for quite sometime too, and most people like Fred, don't like it because there are no front terminals, but it can be modded.Check this Japanese page, the photos should be self explanatory ->http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/ngydx785/13391785.html!Edit : Check out this thread ->https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/hp-6632b-power-supply-electronic-load-in-uk/, they've been buying like crazy there, two left / 25 sold.

author: blackdog
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 05:41:48 pm
content: Hi,This is the power supply i use most.I designed en build this one last year and put it in one of the Cisco PIX 501 Firewall boxes.Most of the electronic stuff i design is low power and the 30mA en 200mAcurrend range is more than enough for most circuits i am testing.And yes its stable, is uses a Apex VRE310a reference.Take a peek @ the schematicRegarts,Blackdog

author: Zapro
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 08:08:20 pm
content: Well i guess i'll have to show my PSU too. I have two PSU's and some variacs. The small PSU is just a cheapie like thishttp://goo.gl/KoPVjAnyway, the "real" PSU is a Delta Elektronika SM7020 - 0-70V 20AI've tried to build some Nixie-based Voltmeter/Ammeter for the PSU, but never got it finished...HOW to make pictures fullsize? i cannot find the button that does that.... It only shows the thumbnails...

author: Circuitous
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 02, 2013, 02:13:58 am
content: Of these, I probably use the DP1308A (lower left) the most:I just got this one yesterday, TTi QPX1200SP 1200Watts:

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2013, 02:28:19 am
content: Oldies but goodies.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2013, 04:53:14 am
content: Quote from: c4757p on March 02, 2013, 02:28:19 amAssuming the mechanical parts are properly cleaned & lubed and also consumable parts like caps are refreshed with good ones. When every time I saw this particular psus, had a feeling that these oldies life might be longer than ours.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2013, 05:09:02 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on March 02, 2013, 04:53:14 amNeither one is dated, but the parts inside are - the one on the left was made ca. 1964! Interesting to see how it was designed. The circuit board is FR4-style material, but with no traces - everything is wired point-to-point on turrets. Despite that, the layout is impressively clean and could pass for a modern PCB layout. Surprisingly few transistors for an all-transistor design (no ICs in this one, thank you very much!) with its specs. For some reason, they felt they needed rails near 100VDC for a power supply with a maximum output voltage of 20V... I guess efficiency hadn't been invented yetThey used such high quality parts that even all the capacitors are still in perfectly good shape. I did have to "adjust" a couple of the precision resistors in the divider, though.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2013, 06:28:12 am
content: Quote from: c4757p on March 02, 2013, 05:09:02 amWhat techniques are you using to adjust the divider resistors?

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2013, 02:40:50 pm
content: In one case, adding a tiny (0.5) series resistance, and in the other, a huge (22M) parallel. That way the bulk of the resistance still comes from the probably very stable resistors that are already there.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2013, 03:05:53 pm
content: To not derail this thread, could we discuss this further in my questions to you herePOWER DESIGNS PRECISION POWER SUPPLIES?

author: ecat
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2013, 10:54:29 pm
content: Arrived today from ebay, Systron-Donner PQ20-2.Here I have a couple of 10r resisters on the rear connectors.The Bad:Absolutely zero information about this or most other Systron-Donner equipment on the internet so, if it doesn't work you are in trouble.The Good:Absolutely zero information about this on the internet so, not very popular and therefore cheap, very cheap £17 excluding shipping.Not had much time to play with it yet.The two units can be separated from the rack making for a smaller setup.The voltage can be controlled by an external 0-10V source - maybe the current too.The current limit works as a CC source just as one would expect.The on/off switch is on/off so no way of presetting current but...Those pots on the front are 10 turn so I could fit a couple of counting/vernier type dials, I have a couple lying around.A quick look inside reveals what appear to be six silver-mica caps per unit. Now, I know very little about electronics, but I do know you don't scatter silver-micas around just looks, they are not cheap.All in all, quite a cute little bugger

author: talsit
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2013, 05:19:16 am
content: This one is mine!It's a Kikusui PAN35-5A, I bought it 2nd hand just 4 days ago, and I'm already liking it quite a lot. It does have a serious problem though - the fan is incredibly loud!I haven't seen anyone else with a Kikusui, is it not available outside Japan?

author: RickieSalad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2013, 06:33:40 am
content: Mastech HY3005F-3

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2013, 07:40:35 pm
content: Quote from: talsit on March 11, 2013, 05:19:16 amFinally ... a Japanese psu, looks like my Kenwood has a Japanese friend now in this thread !Yep, Japanese's stuffs is rarely discussed here in this forum.

author: talsit
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 08:13:41 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on March 11, 2013, 07:40:35 pmYeah, I was looking at the Kenwoods, but the only 2nd hand ones they had were 18V ones, and I needed 32V ideally. The Kikusui ones were quite pricier, anda lotmore than I wanted to spend, but it was either this one, or a really crappy one ratedonlyat 110V 60Hz (and in Osaka it's 100V 60Hz), and they had warning stickers saying that the full DC range won't work, only to 10%...

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 09:41:12 am
content: Quote from: talsit on March 12, 2013, 08:13:41 amHey Talsit, how much those 2nd hand used psu cost there ? Like your or Kenwoord, just ballpark number/approx. in US$ currency equivalent ?Really curious at the Japanese market price there, especially for used ones, how bout others instruments like scope, dmm and etc ?Btw, I'm assuming you're native Japanese, is it possible asking your help to find the Kenwood psu "service manual" like mine at the 1st post at maybe Japanese forums or mail-list ? I got the user manual already, opened it once and noticed its still using thru hole components, I guess its easy to repair, pretty please if its not troubling you too much.Fyi, all Kenwood's lab psus series is now owned by a company called Texio.PS : Always felt dizy when reading google translation from Japanese -> English.

author: maca_404
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 09:59:30 am
content: Talsit did you look at replacing the fan, I had the same issue with a lipo charger I have and replaced the fan with a more quality unit and its quiet as a mouse now.

author: talsit
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 10:22:49 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on March 12, 2013, 09:41:12 amMine cost me 31500 yen (http://www.xe.com/currencyconverter/convert/?Amount=31500&From=JPY&To=USD). It's in really good condition, they had 3 from the same lab, all looked like they had been used, but taken very good care off. They also had 3 others, from a different lab, but these were older, and looked like they were put on a trolley (and sometimes, they may have fallen off a trolley!). I'm quite happy with it.This is where I bought it from:http://techno.kyohritsu.com/keisokuki/index.htmlThey haven't updated that page for a while, but those are the basic prices.Quote from: BravoV on March 12, 2013, 09:41:12 amWell... you assume wrong! I just got here 2 months ago, with very very VERY little japanese skills. So it has been an interesting experience so far. But yes, I can't really help you search for that unless it's through google translate!!

author: talsit
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 10:24:26 am
content: Quote from: maca_404 on March 12, 2013, 09:59:30 amYeah, I'm thinking about it. Given that I've had it for less than a week, I'm going to wait to see if it grows on me or not...

author: maca_404
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 10:29:39 am
content: I can normally block it out but I was sleeping in the same room and the constant drone made me want to hot glue my ears shut.

author: Flávio V
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 01:48:58 pm
content: I don't get it why all(or almost all)actual power supplies have stupid fans when the older ones are fanless(passive) for cheap units i understand, heatsinks are good but good ones are expensive...but in a 250€+ one it should be all passive..

author: ZOMGVTEK
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 01:54:39 pm
content: About everything I do requires a lot of current, and voltage regulation is typically not very critical.This is a blue brick of HP DPS-600PB power supplies. They're perfectly happy running at 50A each, and put out 12.15V a piece. I have since made another one of these for 200V @ 50A, which is good for testing out higher voltage BLDC controllers, at least under light loads. Toss it in series with a sorenson 20-50b and you have a 0-220V DC supply @ 0-50A.

author: Thor-Arne
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 01:57:01 pm
content: Quote from: Flávio V on March 12, 2013, 01:48:58 pmThe reason is probably cost and size, a passive cooling solution is expensive and very bulky.

author: photovore
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 14, 2013, 10:12:19 am
content: Here is my Kenwood. I bought it in a shop in Guangzhou, China for about USD $150. I love it because in High Resolution mode I can set and read the current consumption in as low as 100µA steps. Its also really small and compact, so it takes up minimal space on the bench.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2013, 10:18:11 am
content: photovore, would that be over the entire current range? or is it only some low current range?

author: Bomber18
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2013, 02:18:19 pm
content: I got this Mastech a few years ago and it's served me well.

author: moemoe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2013, 11:24:42 am
content: The PS-2323A is my favorite (read: my best available) PSU, especially the fixed voltage outputs sometimes come in very handy. The +-12/15Vm +-5V and adjustable output are all floating on their own.I have this thing twice, one is currently taken apart (sitting on top of the other) and waiting for some replacement parts, as I bought it as defect. And I still have to find out how the PJT controlled thyristor preregulation exactly works (see attached datasheet…). I'm even thinking of pimping it with some sort of µC, because I like the case and there are already some nice transformators in it.My most used is probably this simple dumb Voltcraft thing, just because I use it for my solder fume fan

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2013, 12:06:21 pm
content: Quote from: photovore on March 14, 2013, 10:12:19 amWow .. the price is really good for this kind of quality psu, very nice catch !Quote from: Rerouter on March 14, 2013, 10:18:11 amCapable of 20V @ 4A, and as photovore mentioned, one of its handy feature is high resolution adjustment as seen at the meter digits. Just check list of it's impressive features at that price ->Here

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2013, 12:15:37 pm
content: based on those specs it would imply that accuracy is only for 1A or less

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2013, 12:24:17 pm
content: With those list features at $150 and well known brand, made in Japan (read, not in China), don't you think its quite a bargain ?

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2013, 12:29:48 pm
content: yes i do, just i am hoping to do the same, if it could maintain that over its 4A range i would be bloody impressed and start hunting for how its done it, as its not it means its a range switch which is easy to reproduce (copy off the best to make the best)

author: knarf.be
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2013, 11:20:37 pm
content: Mine is a simple 0-15v 0-3 Amps with passive cooling, no annoying fan. Costed around € 70 and got it for my 17th bithdayA big +point is the nice green backlightI'm also planning on making my own 0-30v 0-2 Amp supply with an arduiduino bootloaded atmega.Look that awesome passive cooling:

author: AndrewS
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 18, 2013, 03:24:50 pm
content: My favorite power supply is the Agilent e3610a. It's a great high quality, low noise, fanless power supply. I bought it last year when agilent had that deal that you would get an e1272a DMM for free when you bought a e36xx series power supply.I like it so much I have been thinking about getting a second one off ebay to go with this one.

author: Christopher
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2013, 06:28:34 pm
content: Quote from: Circuitous on March 02, 2013, 02:13:58 amThis is probably the best PSU ive ever used, shame everyone else at work thinks so and always nicks em from me !!

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2013, 06:34:57 pm
content: Quote from: knarf.be on March 16, 2013, 11:20:37 pmCareful with that - I have a similar unit (obviously made by the same people), and it is quite capable of blowing itself up. The cooling is not enough for the power dissipated. Don't draw a large current at low voltages.

author: Entropia
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2013, 08:18:27 pm
content: HP 6632B here.It's spot on...

author: knarf.be
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 06:10:24 pm
content: Quote from: c4757p on March 18, 2013, 06:34:57 pmI'm aware of that! In 95% of my use with it, I need under 10W of power. And when charging lead acid battery's I attach a simple computer fan to the back.

author: Deckert
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2013, 11:12:00 pm
content: Wow, some really interesting PSUs in this thread.I got these MCP PSUs with LCDs displays that were dead. Turns out the 9v regulators for the displays did not have heatsinks on them and they all burned out. For one of the PSUs I replaced the regulators with new ones, added heatsinks and now they work perfectly. Both of them have monster toroidal transformers inside:For the second PSU, I drilled out mounting holes and replaced the LCDs with analogue panel meters:The panel meters fit in very tightly next to each other:And below is the result. I stripped out the series/parallel functionality and replaced the switches with normal toggles to allow for quick and easy current-limit adjustment. It's currently my most-used supply:I built the one below up from a switch-mode supply that I stripped out of an old network switch. It's very high power on the 5v line and can maintain 20A without any significant heating. I did add a fan into the enclosure just in case. It's very stable, but it tends to be electrically noisy:And then, finally, the one below is the PSU I have been using since I was 17 years old. I built it in school as a project and it's been serving me well for 25 years now. It's based around the 723, regulates all the way down to 0v and has excellent regulation. Only down side is that it can deliver, but not maintain, 3A for long periods due to a smallish heatsink at the back:I'm currently building another one, also based around the 723 that uses a toroidal transformer, but will only be 0-15V and 0-3A. Will post some pics when it's all done.--deckert

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 05:58:30 am
content: Love the mod, looks really awesome, like the way those meters are neatly laid with perfect fit.Have to apologize, imo the later modded one made the one with digital readings looks cheap.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 07:03:36 am
content: Quote from: knarf.be on March 24, 2013, 06:10:24 pmIf the pass transistors ever fail on that, replace them with TIP3055's much harder to kill pass elements,

author: afho
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 02:43:35 pm
content: This is my little benchtop power supply, an Delta Elektronika ES030-5 (30V, 5A). And even with this spec. the thing is fanless. These power supplys are realy difficult to get.And what would Dave say: "... take it apart!"

author: afho
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 03:06:47 pm
content: I know that this is a switching power supply ... :-). But a quiet nice one. I am currently not at home, but here you can find the spec.sheet.http://www.delta-elektronika.nl/upload/dts_es150.pdfI can post some measurements when I am back home.Kind regards Alex

author: afho
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 08:43:44 pm
content: Not a 500MHz, but 200MHz ...I paid 199€ for this power supply.By the way: Nice work Deckert, the power supply looks realy great with the analog panel meters!Kind regards Alex

author: ResR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 09:08:33 pm
content: My two power supplies, one with unregulated ~12VDC with 50VA transformer, i put the fan to cool it, but it's noisy and other is basically a 1990's PC PSU turned into regulated +5V and +12V power supply. Both were built when I was 17.Edit: nice work Deckert, looks like authentic PSU._

author: Deckert
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 09:10:43 pm
content: Quote from: afho on March 28, 2013, 08:43:44 pmThanks Alex!@BravoV: yep, agree with you, it does look more classy. But they both work equally well and the LCDs are at least accurate enough. I've ordered two 10x multi-turn potentiometers from RS for the left-side of each PSU to allow for more accurate adjustment, should the need be there.That switch-mode supply is quite rare - at least in my experience. Very nice though, compact and light.After Dave's video about common mode noise, I measured mine. My results echo Dave's in that the noise remains the same whether the supply is on or not. I didn't trace the noise to anything specific, but there's just too much kit in my lab that I don't want to switch off right now. In any event, it's not bad enough to warrant finding the source (but my LED light strips are all linear powered!--deckert

author: afho
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 09:40:57 pm
content: QuoteThis is also my experience: At work we have realy big thermal chambers and when the thermal unit is ON to regulate the temperature ... you can see "anything"on your signal wires. This is the reason why we turn the thermal units OFF to make our measurments. Our luck is that we, mostly, measure digital signals secured with CRC, so we notice when something went wrong.

author: staxquad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2013, 05:04:59 am
content: how about some AC1-Variable isolated AC power supply 0-150V2-AC automatic voltage regulator3-Variable AC power supply 0-8V4-step up transformer 120V to 240V

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2013, 03:05:48 pm
content: The BK Precision 1655 looks interesting, as an adjustable AC psu, its also as a leak detector, must be really handy.

author: kripton2035
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2013, 06:19:05 pm
content: sorry the bk 1655 only exists in 110V - no 220v version for europe ?

author: Alex
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 06:56:57 pm
content: Power bricksI most regularly use the Agilent one, very quiet electrically but that fan.... The two HV ones are used for vacuum tubes and nixies. The TTi is for the higher power loads.Alex.

author: Joules
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 09:52:43 pm
content: Here's my little Kenwood, had it many years.

author: Slowflyer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 21, 2013, 04:06:15 pm
content: I have an Agilent 6632B and i love it!I don't need another multimeter because its great voltage and current readouts.Many people say that it's too loud, but i don't have a problem with the sound it makes. The transformer hum is awesome.The bad thing in this supply is its slow constant current regulation as it's mainly designed as a constant voltage supply.It's not that bad if you are familiar with its properties, but in theory it could provide many times the voltage for tens of milliseconds.It says in the manual that to get around this problem, you have to short the output so it goes to CC mode, connect the load and then remove the short.

author: M0BSW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2013, 05:11:20 pm
content: I have two had both for a while, on the left Farnell D302 variable power & current 0 to 30 v 2 Amps .. one to the right 0 to 14.5 volts variable 30 amps.

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2013, 03:02:07 pm
content: Here's mine, it's my first:

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2013, 09:52:48 pm
content: This is a bench PSU I made in school when I was 15 or 16 or so. Its over 20 years old by now. Even though I have several other PSUs I still use it regulary because its nice and compact. I'm trying to retire it but I can't seem to decide on a proper replacement.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2013, 04:08:48 pm
content: This might become my new favorite because of the wide range. $75.00 shipped from the buy/sell section here.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2013, 01:45:43 am
content: Quote from: robrenz on May 22, 2013, 04:08:48 pmI guess its official now that you're known as the "Power Designs" psus addict.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2013, 01:58:06 am
content: It's a contagious addiction, too. He's infected me.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2013, 02:00:03 am
content: There are worse things you could be addicted to

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 03:35:10 am
content: Here's mine. It's an LQ-534 0-120VDC 1.7A supply I got at Surplus Gizmos for $70. It's so far one of the best purchases I've ever made. Someday I'll get something fancier to supplement it but this thing's a workhorse.Interestingly, it has a terminal bar on the back that is exposed to air. The power cord is connected to it. I had to put some electrical tape on it to protect me and the cat.

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 01:30:12 pm
content: Since I scored that Power Designs a couple of weeks ago I know I won't pass up another one. The thing is rock steady and has virtually no AC ripple (about 1 mv) across its entire range. Now I'll be watching for a 5 amp version and one of the precision ones with an oven in it (their cool looking).

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 02:20:53 pm
content: What are you waiting for? its rightHere.Thats where the one I posted above came from.

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 03:35:37 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on May 28, 2013, 02:20:53 pmThe front panel on that one looks a little beat. I will probably find one cheaper at a swap meet this summer. Not in a hurry.

author: gerrysweeney
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 04:24:34 pm
content: I have two E3631A's, one is HP and the other is Agilent branded, I have other PSU's too but I use these two PSU's all the time.Gerry

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 04:37:30 pm
content: Quote from: SLJ on May 28, 2013, 03:35:37 pmThats just great, you are no help at allNow I am going to be tempted to buy it so I would have a pair to use in parallel or series together.

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 09:25:38 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on May 28, 2013, 04:37:30 pmYou know you want it. Do it.

author: fpliuzzi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2013, 08:43:26 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on May 28, 2013, 04:37:30 pmThe front panel on that second 6050A does look a bit beat up (for now), but for $70 including shipping, I couldn't resist. It will make a nice companion for my HP6228B, which is my most used PSU. I like the fact that the 6050A can supply up to 5A when set to its 0-7V output range.Regards,Frank

author: don.r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2013, 10:50:18 pm
content: Now that I got it, the most used is the Power Designs Precision 2020B in the middle but the converted LM317-based tattoo supply up top comes a close second.

author: calmtron
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2013, 10:13:09 pm
content: My current workhorse(s) are:A very Chineese "SAKO SK1731SL5A" bought new fromKomerci oHG(two independent 0-30V / 0-5A outputs, one fixed 5V/3A output)Likes:- Cheap!- Plenty of power (two independent 30V/5A max outputs that can be connected in series or parallell with a switch on the front panel)- Simple construction, can be repaired by the village blacksmith (the most exotic component inside is a TL431 reference)- Comes with a carrying handle to avoid broken back.- Schematic available.Dislikes:- Has the same precision as a binge-drinking village blacksmith. No multiturn pots and 3-digit LED voltage and current meters makes it impossible to set precise voltage and/or current limit. Hooking up a LED to it in CC mode is a bit of a gamble.- Feels a bit flimsy and plasticy despite weighing as much as a small tank.- Not the greatest regulation. Can be made to act funny with nasty loads. Drifts a bit when warming up.An equally Norwegian Mascot 7416 battery eliminator (8-16V) which powers my RTL-SDR / HAM stuff (13.8V)Likes:- Simple construction, again. Bog-standard LM723 circuit really.Dislikes:- No current limit, despite being very simple to implement with the LM723. Instead, it blows a fuse on the PCB on overload.

author: smashedProton
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2013, 10:53:47 pm
content: Here is a pic of my power supply. I had to add some new hardware to bring the voltage indicator in spec.

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2013, 03:49:10 am
content: I finally found time to gather all of them and have a family picture. I know it says favourite and most used but I have many power supplies but non really fit the bill, so I switch between them depending on the projects I am working on.The Kenwood PAR20-4H is the most used and it has 3 preset memory voltages and lots of function, I love the output on/off toggle switch on this. It also has incredible precision current adjustment down to 0.1mA and also front connection for remote sensing. Rotary encoder knob is very cool to control fine tune or coarse and nothing to wear out! Quite easy to use without the manual. The only problem is the 20V output limit. It has small vent holes all over the case welcome the collection of dust so annual maintenance is required. The massive transformer can be configured from input 100 to 240V. It is also very heavy at 8Kg.The Kikusui PMC18-2A has a very small form factor, it is very short length suitable for small benches. Output on/off toggle is great. It hums happily at 60% load. Similar to the Kenwood the mains transformer can be rewired for various parts of the world. I would recommend this power supply if you only need less than 2A, it is easily available used, Made in Japan. The Kenwood replace the portable Kikusui on most occasions.HP E3610A, this is my first commercial power supply, the cover melted when I tried to bake it after cleaning silly me... It's a very simple power supply, easy learn from and understand the inner workings. Very robust power supply lasted me for a long time. Replaced by E3615A due to limited wattage.HP E3615A, similar to the E3610A except it is longer and heavier. No output on/off toggle, not good enough.Philips PM2811, lots of features I don't need. I use this when I need high voltage, it goes up to 60V 5A. Illuminated LCD display, output on/off toggle, GPIB Output connection from rear screw terminals, no banana jacks, noisy fan.All of them are linear power supply except the Philips SMPS with noisy fan.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 01:15:48 pm
content: Manson DPD-3030 Triple Output, Dual Tracking DC Regulated Linear Power SupplyInput Voltage:Supports 110VAC up to 240VAC 50/60Hz and everything in-between)Outputs:Master/Slave: 0-30VDC 3A (per supply)Series: 0-60VDC 3AParallel: 0-30VDC 6AAux: 1.5-6VDC 5ARipple noise (less than) 1mVLoad Current regulation 0.2% + 3mALine Current regulation 0.2% + 3mARipple Current (less than) 3mA R.M.S.Recovery Time less than 100 micro second

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 01:33:12 pm
content: So I just bought a Power Designs 2005. This will be the second Power Designs in my collection. Bought it more for taking it apart and calibrating it. Could not resist since the voltage controls on this are pretty unique.Now to find a service manual download for it. Might be the hardest part.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 01:53:53 pm
content: The 2005A manual is readily available but that 2005 is much older. Manuals Plus has the 2005 for $25.00

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 02:39:53 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on June 19, 2013, 01:53:53 pmYea, but that's half of what I paid for the power supply. Not gonna happen.Here's what I found on-line for the 2005:http://www.rako.com/Articles/29.html

author: Fryguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2013, 11:43:59 am
content: My beloved source of power :The Philips PE 1645Output front and/or rear : 0-40V 0-25A DCA classic linear benchtop PSU - capable of starting up or burning down almost any loadThis beast weighs about 40 Kg and is nearly indestructible by design .I bought it at an amateur radio and electronics fair for 150,- EYPOs and it had just a broken cooling fan - a real bargain .And by accident i bought the exact fitting replacement fan (a brand new Papst fan with ball bearings) a couple of weeks earlier at another fair for 1,- EYPO

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2013, 01:34:36 am
content: My Power Designs supplies have a new friend. I just completed the physical restoration on it today Specs are better on paper than the PD precision units but I have to do calibration and testing to find out. It is definitely better on CC accuracy and stability since it has specs on CC and the PD's do not. Restoration threadhere.

author: carbon dude oxide
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2013, 08:09:19 pm
content: here is my first and only PSU. its made from an ATX computer supply abd con provide 12v, 5v, 3.3v and -12v the 12, 5 and 3.3 can all provide 4A per plug and the -12V can provide 0.5A. It does also ahve 2 earth connections which connect straight to earth via the iec cable.i built this and integrated it into my desk as i always use it there (and i did not have any boxes big enough for itits nice it does the job but i would like to make a nice portable one which will be my next project after i have finished my nixie tube clocki am currently thinking on some nice blue 7 segment displays to show the voltages in a nice rugged case, i dont want it just to perform very well i would like it to look nice tooeither way here is my current intergrated supply:

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2013, 10:38:34 pm
content: I've recently finished another power supply, as I had felt the need for a tracking low power PSU for some time.I did not want to re-invent the wheel, so I settled upon copying part of a rather old but proven HP design, the HP 6236B. However I did not bother with 0-6V supply, only the dual tracking 0-20V part of it.It's all packaged in a case made from PCB off-cuts soldered together and made from junk box parts I had laying around, the only thing I had to buy was a 10 turn pot. The one I had turned out to be broken, even though it was new and unused.

author: steve30
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2013, 01:59:07 pm
content: david77, looks niceWhere are the meters from?

author: toli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2013, 02:03:48 pm
content: Nice!here's my favorite:You can find more info and pics here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/calibrating-the-analog-voltmeter-on-a-ps/Got it for a crazy good priceAfter that I got another one which is 2X30V/5A and cost me just slightly more, but its nowhere as good so I use the weaker unit most of the time. Except for driving the motors where these 10A are quite usefulThe other one can be found here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/old-sunrise-regulated-dc-power-supply-rps3205/msg148815/#msg148815

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2013, 10:39:38 pm
content: Quote from: steve30 on July 22, 2013, 01:59:07 pmI don't know, probably some old industrial equipment. They had °C scales that I had to change.These meters were actually quite interesting, they could be described as analog mechanical window comparators. They used to have two tiny knobs each controlling a red pointer on the scale, so one could set a minimum point and a maximum point. There's a circuit board inside with electronics to detect the position of the needle and relay outputs for min and max.I ripped all that crap out.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2013, 10:42:16 pm
content: Quote from: david77 on July 23, 2013, 10:39:38 pmHow'd you do it? Print a new scale on paper/clear plastic and carefully tape it on?

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2013, 11:39:51 pm
content: Quote from: david77 on July 23, 2013, 10:39:38 pmit is an analog temp controller of the most basic forum. See the attached image, from an ancient centrifuge in my lab, for a similar version. The lower is the set temp, the upper is the alarm temp (above which the centrifuge will not start).Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 4 Beta

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2013, 06:39:42 pm
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on July 23, 2013, 10:42:16 pmI take the original scale and scan that into Photoshop where I then alter it to what I need. Then I simply print it on normal A4 paper and use a glue-stick to glue the new scale over the original.This way I don't have to deal with creating new scale dividers or where the start and end of the scale are. I'm a lazy bastard.

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 10:13:12 pm
content: I hacked power supply design from AMB (sigma11) and made it adjustable with overcurrent protection, dual power supply , in-series connection capable. The output noise is around 40uV.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2013, 11:15:43 pm
content: Very nice! How are you measuring the noise at that level, and is that rms or pp?

author: toli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 01:48:49 pm
content: I have a sigma11 to power my headphones amp as well, but its not variable, 24V onlyBTW, I measure noise with tangents LNMP. The Sigma11 measured quite well, although I've seen better

author: fpliuzzi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 09:09:00 pm
content: @robrenz,If you're curious the Tangentsoft LNMP (Low Noise Measurement Preamplifier) is described here...http://tangentsoft.net/elec/lnmp/At one point I was thinking about building one of these nice preamps myself, but then I came across a good deal on an HP461A amplifier (1Khz- 150MHz bandwidth, 20dB or 40dB of gain). I noticed the HP461A being used in the test setups shown in a few of the app-notes by Jim Williams. The HP is just another option to ponder.Regards,Frankps, I really like what you did with your AMB (sigma11) power supply IvoS. Nice work.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2013, 02:03:45 am
content: @fpliuzziThanks for the info. I looked at that amp but ended up getting a Tek 7A22 differential amplifier for my 7603. Goes to 10µV/div. Also picked up a HP 3410A AC microvoltmeter that I am anxious to try out for noise measurement. It goes down to 3µV full scale.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2013, 04:55:29 am
content: Quote from: Madsaaby on December 23, 2012, 07:48:35 pm- Did you mean that you would prefer having two separate knobs to control amps and volts, or did you mean you would rather have an analog knob instead of the rotary encoder, or were you saying you would like to some other type of control interface? Thanks

author: sync
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2013, 05:16:39 pm
content: These are my preferred bench power supplies. I use the E3610A for single voltages and the 6236B for symmetrical ones. I moded the 6236B with a 10 turn pot for the 20V adjustment and added a variable current limit using the tracking pot.I also have a HP 6234A (dual 30V/200mA). Nice little unit which is easy potable.A Voltcraft VLP-2403 pro (dual 40V/3A) piece of shit.A Nucletron NU1101. It's a linear 1000V/10mA supply.A HP 6181B current source (250mA/120V).And a few old self build supplies that i don't use any more.

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2013, 08:06:13 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on July 28, 2013, 11:15:43 pmrms. I have a low noise preamp just for this purpose:http://tangentsoft.net/elec/lnmp/

author: elecBlu
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2013, 05:52:40 pm
content: RFT 3214 after some cleaningOld technology still rocks.

author: oakkar7
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2013, 04:02:41 pm
content: WoW ....The whole topic looks like a power supply museum.I want to submit my own. I cannot effort over-killed or good quality power supply. So, I built my self.1) Fixed, ATX Based Supply (Most hacker style)350W, 12V, +-5V, 3.3V2) Classic LM317 + 2N3055 Based0~30V, 10AInspired ON6MU designhttp://users.belgacom.net/hamradio/schemas/6-20amps_regulatable_powersupplies_on6mu.htmCheers,

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 05, 2013, 10:05:52 am
content: my favourite psu is the agilent U8002A: it's simple, good quality, cheap and can do a lot of stuff and whit 2 digit of resolution I don't fed up programming the thing. One thing I don't like at all is the bloody fan: very annoyng, but nothing compared to my oscilloscope... I have to replace it, once day when the warranty time is finished..

author: JeanF
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2013, 12:44:00 pm
content: Obviously not my best PSU (in fact I still don't have a proper variable one) but I couldn't resist to post a pic of the piece of junk I threw together this morning, based on a few "cosmetically damaged" little units I had on hand (there's a power adapter from a vintage toshiba laptop, an old modem, a Canon printer, etc) so I disassembled them except one which was heavily glued in its case, and glued them on a piece of plywood. Much more practical now ; the spare ones were too lightweight and kept moving everywhere on the desk due to the weight of the bloody IEC-7 mains cables !Now time to find an enclosure and some banana sockets...

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2013, 01:20:30 pm
content: JeanF, if there are nominees list for ghetto award of bench psus posted in this thread, I think it should be in the list., its so exciting to watch bench psu especially diy type from around the world.Thanks for sharing.

author: mmagin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2013, 10:40:02 pm
content: I'm pretty happy with these older HP supplies from the 1960s-1970s. My favorite is the bottom one. These fairly large models (8.5 inches wide, 15 inch deep) seem to be built by a group they acquired (I believe originally known as Harrison Labs) and they work really nice. My only complaint is that the power-on indication is mechanical and the sharing of one meter for current and voltage can be a little annoying.The top is a cheaper model which I got because I didn't want to spend a whole lot and I wanted something with a decent amount of voltage and +/- tracking outputs for analog stuff. It doesn't have a configurable current limit (but is current limited).Sometime I'd like to get one of the models that's like the bigger one but which goes up to 100 volts.One nice thing is that you can find scans of the manuals for most of these by searching on Agilent's site and thus you can better understand what you're buying on Ebay, and also determine how difficult it might be to get parts to repair it.

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2013, 10:39:07 am
content: My stack of Power Designs is now complete with the addition of the 6050A on the bottom.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2013, 06:41:54 am
content: Quote from: SLJ on September 10, 2013, 10:39:07 amI can feel a sense of closure, aren't you Steve.Great collection you got there.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2013, 02:21:36 pm
content: +1 But things are never complete are they?

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2013, 06:42:48 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on September 11, 2013, 02:21:36 pmMost likely not but I have six DC supplies, a Variac for AC, several low power DC supplies built into breadboards, and a high voltage DC supply for powering nixie tubes so I should be set for awhile. I've been lax on replacing my stereo microscope so I have to get that done before I need it again. Sometimes a magnifier lamp isn't enough.

author: TomC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2013, 11:09:07 pm
content: These are my favorite PSU's. The AC Variable Power source is home built as you may suspect from the picture. Originally, when I built it in the 70's, it only supplied 0-140VAC referenced to the mains. I recently upgraded it to provide isolation for this voltage range, or to provide 0-280VAC referenced to the mains.The XP-720 was built from a kit about 8 months ago. It doesn't have panel meters so I'm using the Heathkit multimeter on top for that function. The wires on the binding posts connect to a switch that allows me to quickly connect the multimeter's input to either supply output.

author: staxquad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2013, 03:41:58 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on September 11, 2013, 02:21:36 pmI'd like to see a complete collection of HP power supplies.Who's game?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2013, 03:50:16 pm
content: At 12 supplies I really have to stop..... don't I....? ? ?

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2013, 12:28:49 am
content: Quote from: staxquad on September 18, 2013, 03:41:58 pmHere's a few pieces of HP:http://www.kennethkuhn.com/hpmuseum/

author: Shirakaba
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 05:26:49 pm
content: Scored two of these Velleman PS613 on an auction. Quite simple, fanless PSU and I guess it has been OEMd, because I have seen similar design from other brands. It uses those 270° potentiometers and doesn't even have a fine/coarse option, so they were really horrible to use. I modded them a bit and replaced the original pots with Bourns 10-turn ones. A little maintenance with the Dremel was needed to fit the slightly larger new pots, but they work like a charm!

author: cubansite
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 06:05:17 pm
content: i just use an old 250w PC power supply, cheap

author: Lucas
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 07, 2013, 09:48:51 pm
content: Quote from: cubansite on October 07, 2013, 06:05:17 pmThat's also my solution (mainly because I'm quite low in money at the moment). I added some bananana plugs at the front, a switch on the proper turn-on wire, an LED on the proper wire, and a power resistor to simulate a small load. Added a 12cm fan on top, and we're good to go! I'm lucky because this PSU does -12, -5, 3.3, 5 and 12V Lots of combinations possible!

author: 84GKSIG
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2013, 04:49:06 pm
content: this was a gift from a good friend of mine its a big heavy beast of a thing with 2x 5v outputs and 2x20v outputs, the 20v side of the psu have been modified and are now variable from 1 - 20vthis has got to be my favorite shot of the thing!I've converted a couple computer power supplies to bench top supplies and recently got round to fixing my 13.8v 15 amp power supply which I used for bench testing car audio related equipment.

author: txescientist
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2013, 06:41:20 pm
content: These are my power supplies. First one is based on L200 with fine and coarse voltage adjust pots and selector switch to connect in series resistors for current limit in 12 steps. Also has dedicated 7805 regulator for digital electronics. The other one is also based on L200 but has continuous current limit via opamp. It has several fixed AC outputs. Schematics are easily available on the internet. I suggest this article "A DESIGNERS GUIDE TO THE L200 VOLTAGE REGULATOR" to any potential builders...

author: nardev
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2013, 10:11:50 am
content: Quote from: blackdog on February 22, 2013, 05:41:48 pmThe most original onegreat idea to put it in CISCO boxes since they are good as casing

author: JustinHV32
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 27, 2013, 05:58:36 am
content: This is my bench PSU ( don't laugh ;-) ). Its not pretty but I get by. Its based on an LM2575-ADJ simple switcher from National(Ti). Its full of bugs, but looks like they're slowly dying out.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2013, 06:32:27 am
content: For me that psu's internal is considered very neat & pretty compared my 1st diy bench PSU built years ago, I bet you will catch a nightmare even you took a quick glimpse at it.

author: AmmoJammo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2013, 06:36:09 am
content: Bench power supply what?Four Meanwell 40amp, 20volt power supplies bolted together...Currently have a resistor on the feedback circuit so they can be changed from about 12.5 to 14.5volts for car audio stuff, but can easily enough change the wiring around for +-40 volt rails for testing amplifiers and such.I've measured about 180amps from the four in parallelI really need to make an external voltage reference circuit so I can easily adjust the voltage of all four at once

author: JustinHV32
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 27, 2013, 07:36:34 am
content: I've been wanting to replace it for a while now. This is a prototype I've been working on for some time. Just been trying to improve home PCB fabrication up to a level im happy with before producing the latest version. The firmware is broken at this time.Also shown is the front panel of the previous PSU. The case was recycled from a function generator project I did back in 98.

author: VintageTekFan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2013, 04:16:12 pm
content: My most used is a Tektronix PS503A.But my favorite is an HP 66000A mainframe. Found it without the keyboard in the trash. Took me 10 years before I got a keyboard for it - and come to find that the thing works perfectly.

author: JeanF
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2013, 06:44:51 pm
content: Hi !Maybe some of you remember my el-verycheapo PSU made from various bits and bobs glued to a piece of scrap plywood ? (see prev page) Well... now it's even more rocket science ! It's got aproper enclosurecheck it out :as you can see it even features a proper IEC C7 connectorfunny thing(s) : I didn't have enough banana sockets so I had to buy 2 more (the 5v and 12v GNDs) but they were slightly different and didn't fit as good as the others so I had to use a bit of hot glue afterwards. Aaaaaand also : All I had in stock was yellow so I hand painted the 3v3, 12 and 15v GNDs in black

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2013, 10:54:03 pm
content: Quote from: JeanF on October 28, 2013, 06:44:51 pmWhat a clever way to increase the initial fuel for a fire.

author: JeanF
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2013, 11:36:13 pm
content: Yeah, indeed cardboard and wood are good fuelsYou have a good point here. I am aware of intrinsic safety issues. As you may have noticed from my way of speaking*, this is more of a joke than a proper power supply. I'd never leave it powered without attendance and I built it only for fun in my spare time based on junk parts. I would be silly to use a metal case, proper insulated banana jacks, a fuse holder ect. with this kind of PSUs inside... The whole point was to save these parts from the trash bin* : at least that was my goal, but it's not as easy in English as in French for me

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2013, 03:21:01 pm
content: I guess this will have to be my new favorite. Only 500nV and 500fA setting resolution and 10nV and 10fA measuring resolution. It will just have to do for now

author: con-f-use
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 29, 2013, 04:28:04 pm
content: Quote from: JeanF on October 28, 2013, 06:44:51 pm=

author: txescientist
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2013, 04:45:14 pm
content: I agree, that is not the smartest thing to do, especially with available cheap plastic enclosures (I used mains wire distribution box :-)) but look at this thing>http://tatstechtalk.wordpress.com/2010/10/02/i-already-dont-like-pcs-but-cardboard/http://www.engadget.com/2010/10/01/recompute-cardboard-pc-in-the-flesh-its-real-it-boots-its-m/

author: blackdog
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2013, 06:34:35 pm
content: Hi nardev,Thank for the compliment.I build all kinds of instruments in these Cisco boxesKind regarts,Blackdog

author: Chipset
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2013, 06:37:35 pm
content: This is my lightly modified Danica TPS 20 linear supply. I rescued it from the basement of a high school with a severely neglected EE program along with the HP gear to the right of the pic (5316A, 2x 8111A, 2x 3478A (both under repair and not pictured), a tek TAS465, tek 308 and some other odds and ends.I'm not one for analog dials so I got the digital displays you see here off of ebay. 5 digits might seem excessive for such a relatively low end supply but the price difference between 4 and 5 digit displays was entirely negligible. I wanted to make the mounting plate out of aluminium or steel but didn't have any at hand, so I painted a bit of mdf.I also took the opportunity to replace the pots with 10-turn ones.All in all it serves its purpose and does it well, it's no precision instrument but it works fine.I get about 2 decimals of reliable accuracy and resolution, purists will shout at me for removing the analog dial and carving it up to fit the digital displays but it's far more useful now with dual readout than it ever was before.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 29, 2013, 06:40:28 pm
content: This one is my new favourite. I found it in a dustbin the other day, the meters a still spot on.This one is my most used in the workshop.This one is the most used in the house.I also found this one in a dustbin a while back. It did not work, but when I opened it up it looked like it was someone's incomplete project that they got fed up with and consequently threw it away. I completed it and it works well. I don't know what make it is supposed to be (Velleman perhaps), but it's about 40W (20V 2A) with adjustable current limit, course and fine voltage adjustment. It's perfect little handy power supply to use when you are cosy in the house and just want to check something out without having to run out to the workshops in the freezing snow.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2013, 10:03:10 pm
content: Up till last year I used my two Delta 30V 10Amp PSU the most. Last year a Delta 300V 5A PSU at the company blew and was cost effective beyond repair.I was lucky enough to be the one that was allowed to export it to my own shack and got it working again since this great company shares the datasheets(if you ask nice). So now this is my preferred PSU for most things.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2013, 10:36:56 pm
content: Quote from: VintageTekFan on October 27, 2013, 04:16:12 pmThat is all very cool!

author: Mark Hennessy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2013, 05:23:33 pm
content: Quote from: Kibi on October 29, 2013, 06:40:28 pmI can tell you all about that one...That was made at the BBC's engineering training site at Wood Norton, and it's my design (I work there). It's nothing clever; just an industry-standard floating regulator that everyone uses, but it's proved to be reliable and many have been made over the last few years. It was designed to be easy to build, which is why the PCB is TH and single-sided, and why connectors have been used where possible. The enclosure was chosen by someone else, and it did impose some mechanical and thermal constraints, but it's not bad overall.It has adjustable current limiting (limit shown on meter when DC output is switched off, just like the TTi units) and an over-temperature cut-out. Regulation is done by a dual op-amp. The maximum voltage should be set (with PR1) to 18V with fine-volts at min, and about 0.4V higher with the fine-volts at max. Current should go to 1.2 or 1.3 amps, although I only used a 1N4148 as the reference for that, so it's not terribly stable with temperature (decided that didn't matter - you have to draw the line somewhere!). You should find that the voltage stability is pretty good for such a simple design.No-one on the course has ever left with a partially-completed unit - we always make sure they are finished and tested - so I'm intrigued to know what you needed to do with it. I'm also curious about where you found it. I wonder who would want to throw away such a useful thing? Of course, not all broadcast engineers need to work with electronics these days...I can send you comprehensive details if you like - drop me an email.All the best,Mark

author: con-f-use
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 30, 2013, 06:48:28 pm
content: Quote from: Mark Hennessy on October 30, 2013, 05:23:33 pmEven the schematics and partslist?It looks kinda cute... Where does one get the enclosure?

author: Mark Hennessy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2013, 07:24:36 pm
content: Quote from: con-f-use on October 30, 2013, 06:48:28 pmYes, all of that and more.However, let me speak to my boss first. Just to clear things from the BBC's point of view - because they employ me and it was developed on their time, it's technically their IP. I'm sure it'll be OK provided I put a suitable disclaimer on any documentation.The case is a Lawtronics HSK220 -http://www.lawtronics.co.uk/heatsink.htmlMark

author: txescientist
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2013, 07:36:25 pm
content: Thanks

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2013, 07:28:04 am
content: Quote from: Kibi on October 29, 2013, 06:40:28 pmDon't know why, probably its just me, I really dislike those push buttons, especially that two at the top for current setting.To me that both are so counter intuitive, it feels like when I was going to use it, had to pause for a while thinking and verifying the combination again in my brain to make sure I will be pushing the right combinations.Anyone have the same impression ?

author: 84GKSIG
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2013, 07:32:35 am
content: they do not come across as strait forwards as a rotary position switch would have, wonder how those beasts look inside

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2013, 09:53:36 am
content: I guess probably with the consideration that it needs quite an expensive rotary switch to switch the high current connections, hence those cheap ugly push buttons.

author: 84GKSIG
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2013, 10:03:27 am
content: thats kinda what I was starting to think, how old are those?

author: theonetruestickman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 03, 2013, 06:21:37 pm
content: Wow, so much awesome gear, though some of you appear to have a much different definition of "inexpensive" compared to me...The most used for my is probably the Heathkit ET3100 and one of the little switchable deals with interchangeable barrel plugs. Those are great for testing small consumer electronics for which the wall wart is MIA. The 12V lighter plug one is nice for testing stuff out in the car, too.As far as *favorite*, I'll have to go dig out a couple of the telecom behemoths I've got stowed in the barn. Those are way cooler but far more power than I actually need to use for anything.

author: VintageTekFan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2013, 03:14:09 pm
content: Quote from: theonetruestickman on November 03, 2013, 06:21:37 pmI've just been lucky that I live near a Polytechnic college with a large budget and poor security on their garbage bins.

author: theonetruestickman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 04, 2013, 09:44:06 pm
content: Found it - favorite PSU I own, purely for the size of the transformer.

author: Clint
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2013, 10:31:51 pm
content: I have a history or using Thurbry Thandor (TTi) PSU's and am now have 3 generations in dual PSU, the latest one is this one:http://uk.farnell.com/aim-tti-instruments/cpx400d/power-supply-dual-60v-max-20a-max/dp/1853729Its a beast and very stable, I have not done much with it and one thing I will do is spend some time to see how accurate it is over the voltage and current ranges.There is not much in this price range that can do 20A at 20v and still do 7A at 60V ! so quite ideal for my amplifier work.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 08, 2013, 10:23:30 pm
content: Quote from: Mark Hennessy on October 30, 2013, 05:23:33 pmHello MarkThank you very much for the information.I rescued this Power Supply from a WEEE bin which was sitting just outside SCAR before decommissioning works commenced. Being from SCAR or somewhere thereabouts, my guess is that it belonged to one of the News engineers.The next problem was that it could not be logged onto the system as a working bit of kit to be redistributed as a) it was found in a bin and it did not power up at all and b) it was neither asset marked, bore a serial number nor had any brand name on it (it is now clear why). Basically nobody was interested in keeping it for redistribution so I asked if I could keep it and repair it. Permission was granted.Once I got down to repairing it, I found that the secondary of the transformer was disconnected and none of the power transistors were screwed to the side of the case. I remedied these faults and it did then power up but had an intermittent fault which I eventually traced down to one of the wires being disconnected from the current / voltage readout selection switch. It was difficult to detect this fault because the Hellermann sleeve was holding the wire in place.I wonder if the original owner could be found and whether or not they would like their lovely little power supply returned to them in working order?

author: Maximus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2013, 02:05:50 am
content: Made this one myself! I'm quite proud of it. Although after a year of electrical engineering schooling I have come to realize just how basic it is.the guts of my PSUIts enough to do most basic work.

author: Mark Hennessy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2013, 11:02:01 pm
content: Quote from: Kibi on November 08, 2013, 10:23:30 pmThanks for the update - yes, plenty of News engineers built those over the years. Of course, there would be no way of pinning it down to an individual, sadly. Keep it and enjoy itSounds like it was taken apart after it left me - perhaps because of that bad connection. There should have been a rectangle of Sil-pad and a couple of spring clips to secure the devices to the side, which I presume you were able to piece together?I'm still working on getting permission to publish the details - just been far too busy to get my act together over the last few weeks, but as it's a very "generic" design, I'm confident it'll be fine. I'll probably put the details up on my website...All the best,Mark

author: London Lad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2013, 05:31:58 pm
content: Here is my little collection.

author: minime72706
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2013, 04:58:58 am
content: Though my main power supply, which I picked up a few years ago on eBay (new), is a BK Precision 1672 triple-output monstrosity, I recently got another one. Since it hasn't entered the mess of wires that is my workbench, it's easier to post photos of this one. I got it because it was smaller, though not lighter, and because it had an output voltage up to 60V. I can attain 60V with my 1672, but I wanted a single supply (technically dual) that could do the same.I got it from a fairly local distributor known for their dealings with educational institutions, Electronix Express. What I bought was their part number "6003LK-2", which is advertised as a RSR Electronics product (Their parent company), but actually ended up being a Vizatek product. No matter the details, though.I paid $145 for it and think I'll end up being happy with it; however, I wish the panel meters were more accurate.In the picture below, I am measuring the current and voltage with my Fluke 117 and 85V respectively. The load ended up being the closest thing nearby when I decided to take a picture, a random 2W multi-turn potentiometer. I plan to someday build my own linear supply with readout accuracy down to 1mV, which I'll likely be very very anal about, but I'm not quite satisfied with what I see here. The current measurement is off quite a bit at low values, which is a problem in my book.It has the most enormous torroidal transformer I've ever seen inside of it.It also has a fan that seems to be on constantly, which is annoying. The same goes for my 1672.Also, though the BK Precision 1672 also only shows current and voltage with 0.01 units accuracy, I found the panel meters matched my DMMs very closely in comparison.I'd still buy another if I needed it, or maybe something similar. You can do pretty well in this price range.I'm repairing some BK Precision 1630 DC power supplies from the early 90's for my former electronics instructor at my former High School and they're still working just fine despite heavy abuse. The main issue was that the cheap plastic front panel seems to have leeched its plasticizer, which made it brittle and caused it to crack. I imagine that product had a similar cost when it was new.

author: Maximus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 11:20:22 pm
content: I recently got a used BK precision 1660A power supply for $160 off ebay. It works great, and at a glance its still within its specs and all the meters are still accurate. The only issue is that the 4v-6.5v output tops out at 6.3 volts which is within its specified range but hardly ideal. I think i will see if i can adjust it a little to get the full output range. As a broke student, this seemed to be the best i could find in my budget. Its a HUGE improvement over the cheesy little one I built myself.The little white arrows mark where the 12V and 60mA settings are on the 30V outputs, and where 5v is for the 6.5V output. They were on it when i got it.

author: minime72706
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2013, 11:21:22 pm
content: Quote from: Maximus on December 09, 2013, 11:20:22 pmYou may be fine since the entire front panel is covered in a metal "sticker", but that plastic front panel is bound to be EXTREMELY brittle. They used bad plastic in the early 90's and it becomes very brittle with time.

author: idpromnut
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 12:13:54 am
content: Thought I might throw mine in as well, thanks to suggestions on this thread

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 12:22:15 am
content: I didn't know PD ever made supplies with digital readouts.

author: staxquad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 12:44:42 am
content: Quote from: idpromnut on December 18, 2013, 12:13:54 amwho let the dogs out?nice wide rangerobrenz didn't need to see those (won't take more than 6 months to acquire one would be my guess)Quote from: robrenz

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 01:04:16 am
content: That really hurt

author: idpromnut
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 01:58:52 am
content: Quote from: c4757p on December 18, 2013, 12:22:15 amThe 'C' and 'D' variants of this model were the only digital readouts that I found on ebay when I was looking.

author: idpromnut
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 02:29:36 am
content: Quote from: robrenz on December 18, 2013, 01:04:16 amDude, I understand the obsession... I've been eye-ballin' this baby for the last few days:eBay auction: #321272134668

author: don.r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 02:33:55 am
content: They do a rack mount twin version of the 6050 in both analog and digital. I prefer the single versions myself. I thought about getting a 6050D and saw 3 for sale on eBay once for about $200 for the set. Felt I had enough PSUs at 3 though.

author: idpromnut
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 02:53:29 am
content: Each of those were ~100$ delivered from the US to up here in Canada. Vivre-la USPS!

author: don.r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 03:00:24 am
content: My 2020A was delivered USPS as well from the States. I think it was $25 or so. Bargain.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 03:58:14 am
content: Quote from: idpromnut on December 18, 2013, 02:29:36 amI have 2 newer model 2005's that I have cleaned switches, pots, replaced neons, calibrated and full load tested for 24hours. They will have a calibration sheet with my 8846A .0024% as the reference that I will be selling. (replaced by HP611X supplies)

author: idpromnut
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 12:31:25 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on December 18, 2013, 03:58:14 amAwe, now that is just being cruel and unusual!

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 01:07:46 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on December 18, 2013, 03:58:14 amNice, I might be interested in one when your ready to sell them.

author: Terabyte2007
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2013, 04:01:32 pm
content: Here are my main unit's. I have a couple others that are not used much currently. I have my eye on a Rigol to replace all of these.

author: idpromnut
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 04:13:10 am
content: Oh, and I did a quick test, and as far as I can measure, those 6050 supplies can sustain the full 5A max rated current over just 1mV.Awesome.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 12:39:42 pm
content: I did some similar testingherethru reply #32. Shows the resistance of your shorting bar has a large impact on what voltage you read.

author: idpromnut
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 01:20:34 pm
content: Yes, I was reading that thread, which made me curious as to how my supplies performed. I ended up using a small piece of solid copper wire (14AWG, standard household electrical wiring) as my short.

author: PeteJM
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 09:24:02 pm
content: Just picked up an AMREL PPS 35-2D. User on the bay was selling it for $100 because he could not turn it on due to not having a 230 AC system in place. Luckally, I happen to have used this type of AMREL before and knew it had a switch inside for 115/230. Swapped it over when I received it, and it powered on like a champ! Accurate to within +/-10mVPics to Follow when I get home.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2013, 05:24:43 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on December 18, 2013, 03:58:14 amAssuming with the aim for 1 to 1 replacement, looks like cheap & used 611x will be vanished in the market soon.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2013, 06:05:59 pm
content: Just got my second andlast6114A and only looking for a third andlast6115A so I can do a precision 300V that's it, no more!All my Power Designs will be available as I get a chance to fully clean,test and calibrate them. The PD's are great and almost as good on Volts as the 611X's but they were never designed for stable current supply like the HP's. Also the HP's rear connections allow every kind of parallel, series, tracking, ratio tracking, etc., connection for multiple units. You can even disconnect the output cap from the rear terminals for sensitive current limiting.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2013, 06:13:33 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on December 20, 2013, 06:05:59 pmSounds quite convincing, but I don't buy it.And please, stop exposing it's powerful features, I still don't have enough yet, at least still stalking for 6114A to company my 6115A.

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 12:01:18 am
content: TTI Thurlby Thandar TSX3510 35v 10amp PSUHave to say TTI have the best customer support and so cheap for spare parts.

author: Mark Hennessy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 04:22:08 pm
content: Quote from: TheBay on December 21, 2013, 12:01:18 amHmm... I have a handful of Thurlby PSUs here - mostly PL320s and a TS-something somewhere. I quite like them, although the earlier PL320s are a mess inside and not exactly easy to work on.BUT, given that they wanted £35 for a service manual - which would have cost them nothing to email as a PDF - I can't agree with your comments about support. Perhaps they've improved since then (that was 3 or 4 years back).

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 04:40:10 pm
content: They seem great to talk to over the phone for advice and also for parts, never asked for a schematic as the companies I worked for already had them from TTi, that's annoying about the schematicI will ask them when I call next to see if they will email one or still charge!Are you parting with any of your Thurlby gear, I have a bit of a fetish for itQuote from: Mark Hennessy on December 21, 2013, 04:22:08 pm

author: sachleen
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 07:58:34 pm
content: I made this one following the LM317 typical application circuit. I added a small volt/amp panel meter to it, voltage adjust knob, and two banana jacks. On the back is a DC input from a 12v wall wart and power switch. I just ruined the display while I was trying to calibrate the volt meter.I'm working on another one right now that has digital control and current limiting.

author: minime72706
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2013, 03:39:44 pm
content: Quote from: sachleen on December 21, 2013, 07:58:34 pmNice COMPAQ screwdriver, bro.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2013, 03:40:58 am
content: Quote from: minime72706 on December 22, 2013, 03:39:44 pmIt brings nostalgic moment, that thing was basically all over the place in 90s as promotional/advertisement item from almost major computer/electronic companies, you could spot at least one if you walked into a typical IT person's workspace/table.

author: d3javu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2013, 04:43:53 am
content: These are the two power supplies i'm using at the moment.

author: Zbig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2013, 12:28:15 pm
content: Quote from: d3javu on December 25, 2013, 04:43:53 amI love how some manufacturers started putting "REMOVE PROTECTIVE FILM BEFORE USE" messages in huge font obscuring the view, so people dead-set on keeping their stuff "virgin" long past its warranty have no choice but to peel it off, already

author: d3javu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2013, 12:55:30 pm
content: Quote from: Zbig on December 25, 2013, 12:28:15 pmHaha, each and every time i look at the screen, i'm tempted to peel it off.... it is not easy to control oneself from doing it.

author: Zbig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2013, 02:01:37 pm
content: Quote from: d3javu on December 25, 2013, 12:55:30 pmCome on... you know you want it... and you deserved it... and it's Christmas, after all...

author: aargee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2013, 08:23:04 pm
content: Just watch that protective film, I've had some films that bond to plastic over (a long) time making it an ugly mess when finally trying to remove it.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2013, 08:38:35 pm
content: Just go and buy some cheap tablet screen protectors and cut into strips as a replacement. Easy on, easy off when needed and pretty invisible. Should be under $2 for most of the clone ones, and as a bonus they come with a cleaning cloth to remove dust and polish the screen before application.

author: d3javu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2013, 01:39:10 pm
content: Quote from: aargee on December 25, 2013, 08:23:04 pmEew, that is a big pain if it happens.Quote from: SeanB on December 25, 2013, 08:38:35 pmSounds neat, will give it a try. thanks.

author: rollatorwieltje
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 26, 2013, 01:52:42 pm
content: Quote from: aargee on December 25, 2013, 08:23:04 pmI had a similar issue with some plastic bag I put over my Rigol 1052E to store it, it started to melt the knobsYou can't even trust Chinese bags anymore.

author: jippie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 26, 2013, 07:53:39 pm
content: This is my favorite power supply. Built February 1958, 0-30V, 0-300mA and 0-25 ohm internal impedance. The most used one is a simple 5V power brick ...

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 27, 2013, 03:05:42 am
content: Love vintage kit great to see it still in service. What concerns me though is the use of PCBs in capacitors and transformers in some vintage devices.Quote from: jippie on December 26, 2013, 07:53:39 pm

author: minime72706
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2013, 06:14:52 am
content: Quote from: TheBay on December 27, 2013, 03:05:42 amCapacitors, sure, but just because a transformer looks ... absolutely disgusting ... doesn't mean it's prone to failure.

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2013, 06:33:19 am
content: Quote from: minime72706 on December 27, 2013, 06:14:52 amHe's saying PCBs used in the sealed transformers I think.Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

author: jippie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 27, 2013, 08:26:43 am
content: It's not really in service, I found it the other day in the attic at my parent's place. I do want to clean it up and carefully test it. Have to find a variac and a lightbulb first to prevent components from releasing themagic blue smokeir PCB's when powering up.Quote from: TheBay on December 27, 2013, 03:05:42 am

author: mrkev
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2013, 04:47:23 pm
content: Well it's favorite one... I've build it when I was 14yo... 15V/1,5A

author: sync
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2013, 05:11:40 pm
content: Quote from: TheBay on December 27, 2013, 03:05:42 amIt's unlikely that it contains PCBs in the caps or transformer. The caps should be DC electrolytics and they are PCB free.

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2013, 07:58:31 pm
content: My one and only "real" power supply, but it serves me very well.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2013, 08:02:35 pm
content: This is one I put together around 20 odd years ago to give me an AC supply from 0-12VAC at 5A. Isolated output, using an old variac. Originally the variac was designed for 115VAC 400Hz use, with a 5A rating, but on 50Hz 12V is about the maximum I will give it as a supply.

author: Po6ept
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2014, 12:55:56 pm
content: I have owned a pair of these Lambda LA-200 supplies for years. I just picked up the Protek 303 at a hamfest on Saturday for $30. It works well, but I would still like to have one dual-voltage supply.

author: madshaman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2014, 01:46:53 pm
content: It's probably not my *best* PSU, but it's my favourite and it gets used the most:

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2014, 02:39:47 pm
content: PD Beauty

author: madshaman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2014, 10:50:53 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on January 13, 2014, 02:39:47 pmYeah, I love PD supplies too. Sexy sexy sexy and a pleasure to use.

author: madshaman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2014, 10:57:21 pm
content: Here's the PD supply that sits on top of the other. Some day I'd like to touch up the paint.

author: idpromnut
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2014, 04:58:27 pm
content: Quote from: madshaman on January 13, 2014, 01:46:53 pmSex on a stick!

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2014, 06:20:52 pm
content: Quote from: madshaman on January 13, 2014, 01:46:53 pmI have the B variant, and is my favorite as well.

author: madshaman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2014, 06:14:37 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on January 15, 2014, 06:20:52 pmSweet! I know why there's so much PD love on the forum, solid, so easy to use, no nonsense.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2014, 03:58:16 pm
content: Quote from: madshaman on February 10, 2014, 06:14:37 amPaid just under $82 for it, including shipping. Triple output, fully functional, built like a tank, and even the cosmetics are great.

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2014, 08:00:36 pm
content: These are all amazing. I'll update this post with pics of mine when I get a moment.Here they are.Power Designs 3650-S. I couldn't find the schematic online, so I got the manual via eBay. If anyone wants a copy, I'm glad to take a high-resolution photo and share it.HP 6201B:HP 6286A, my most-used supply, by far:Rigol DP832:

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2014, 05:32:55 am
content: Quote from: Rigby on February 13, 2014, 08:00:36 pmI'd love to take you up on that if you don't mind! Just sort-of-accidentally bought a 3650-S along with a TW5005 on eBay today and quickly found as you did that the 3650 manual's nowhere to be found on the net.Now if you'll excuse me, I'll go back to my lurking until my new toys get here and I can properly contribute to the thread.

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2014, 04:16:30 am
content: Quote from: ajb on February 18, 2014, 05:32:55 am"sort-of-accidentally" my butt. I know how these things workYou're in good company, no need to hide.https://s3.amazonaws.com/RigbyElectronics/PowerDesigns3650S_Manual.pdfhttps://s3.amazonaws.com/RigbyElectronics/PowerDesigns3650S_Schematic.pdf(by the way, if anyone can read that schematic and tell me why the limit lamp is always on, i'd appreciate it.)The circuit board pictured in the schematic doesn't match mine at all, so if anyone finds a different version of this, I'd greatly appreciate it if you shared it.

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2014, 06:40:23 am
content: all from ebay except the one with the price sticker on it, that was from a local store (Halted).

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2014, 01:30:05 pm
content: I love the voltage dials on those Power Designs supplies.

author: KarlosVandango
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2014, 06:34:46 pm
content: Hello Fellas,Hopefully you'll find this interesting... I constructed this a few years ago... (I think I was 13). After driving my parents to despair over battery usage, my Dad (who's friend was a blinding instrument guy (and they both worked at the local nuclear power station)) helped me design a twin PSU. I built the circuit, he went through with me how to start, research the components etc... (before .pdf datasheets and internet! Had to use RS components and Maplin catalog) and Dad did the drilling and "sourcing" of all the bits etc..Max voltage output is 25V per channel, 2A per channel can be drawn (or if you bridge the outputs you can get a whopping 4A supply)Biased on the LM723, this unit has also short-circuit protection, AND you can limit the current going out. Although the gauges are analogue, they still do the job, and I didn't want to mess up the calibration of the dials.I'm 35 now, and the unit is still in use. Unfortunately, the PSU used to have a nasty habit of discharging max voltage through the output terminals when you turned the unit off (no bleed resistors on the caps!!). When I was an apprentice, I fitted bleed resistors AND relays to disconnect the output terminals (along with additional snubbers etc).God only knows now where I put the schematic for it... But I'm sure it wouldn't be too difficult to reverse engineer... Hmmmm....Regards,Karl

author: KarlosVandango
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2014, 06:42:35 pm
content: Forgot this one....You can see the other bits added over the years... Do I upgrade to digital displays...? I think I'd rather build another one, this unit works, although you do need a multi-meter to get really accurate settings. But the gauges are spot on, it's only when you require "point" of a volt...

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2014, 11:42:00 pm
content: Overshoot at power down is a nasty habit of many self build and cheap power supplies. It can kill circuits if you are unlucky. I recall a case when an intern tested tens of boards with a cheap PSU. Ofcourse all the boards where OK and they got shipped to the customer. At the customer none worked. After some questioning it turned out he used the crappiest PSU in the 'lab' which had this overshoot problem which killed all the 4000 series logic. Some people objected when I dumped the PSU in the bin. Another lesson to be learned is that you should put regulators on a board to make sure the supply voltage is within range.

author: warp_foo
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 20, 2014, 11:57:26 am
content: Quote from: KarlosVandango on February 19, 2014, 06:42:35 pmIf you're putting it up for a vote: No! I love the analog gauges.m

author: KarlosVandango
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2014, 07:42:33 pm
content: Thanks! I'll think I'll keep 'emTotally agree about the over-shoot! I've killed many a circuit forgetting about disconnecting first!!... I lived with it for a few years, but when I hit my apprenticeship (after blowing up a great circuit which took ages to build for work) I was straight in there like a thing possessed... Relays, bleed resistors, snubbers etc.But really the design was flawed from the start, could do so much better now. But it's my favorite piece of equipment and most useful thing I've ever madeI hate to think how much it cost the CEGB... (the mighty Central Electricity Generation Board... back in the day of publicly owned power)

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2014, 09:11:01 pm
content: Quote from: Rigby on February 19, 2014, 04:16:30 amI'm just saying, that "Make an offer" thing is dangerous, especially if you forget about that offer you made on a 3650S when you see a nice TW5005 with a tempting "Buy it Now" price!Thanks for sharing those PDFs. If the CC and CV modes function properly even with the limit lamp always lit, I'd suggest starting at Q12.

author: lapm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2014, 09:28:11 pm
content: Quote from: KarlosVandango on February 19, 2014, 06:42:35 pmIf those analog gauges work keep themNot too many of those around anymore. Gives your PSU this "OLD" feel...You don't always need super accurate readings after all..Damn this thread, now i want to build myself second PSU...

author: anachrocomputer
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 01:52:37 pm
content: My main bench power supply, the Farnell TOPS 4D:

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 02:25:34 pm
content: Quote from: madshaman on January 13, 2014, 10:57:21 pmIf anyone knows a good paint to use to touch these up, please let me know. I'm gonna scratch out all the paint that is in these little channels now and repaint the entire thing, but I'm not sure what paint to use. A little voice in my head is screaming "enamel paint" but I don't know if that's right or even what it is. It's weird how the voices are...

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 02:35:01 pm
content: Make sure you have one that is etched and filled graphics first! Some are just silk screened paint with no channels.

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 03:40:25 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on March 05, 2014, 02:35:01 pmMine is definitely etched. Handy little groove to lay down paint on. I've had vinyl stencils cut with detail like this, so I could go that route if the stencils weren't available. I've heard of using stencils as negatives, before, laying down a negative of the pattern you want, then airbrushing in the exposed areas and peeling off the vinyl. I was going to try that if it wasn't grooved.

author: electronics technician
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 04:14:46 pm
content: Quote from: dimlow on February 18, 2013, 08:30:35 amthats a big breadboard how much did that costbtw great psu

author: MLXXXp
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2014, 01:59:46 pm
content: I suppose I should get something better but I've gotten by so far with these.Most used:Elenco XP-6550-30VDC 0.5AFor higher current or a 2nd supply:Quick and dirty LM338K1.3-30VDC 5A(maybe)For higher voltages:Heathkit IP-320-400VDC 100mA, 0-minus100VDC 1mA, 6.3VAC 4AFor AC:General Radio Variac type W50-130VAC 5A unregulated

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2014, 04:06:38 pm
content: Sorry, I could not help myself.Three 50V 2A 4 quadrant supplies that can follow a 20kHz sine input. Basically a 40 pound op amp. Makes a pretty good signal gen amplifier up to 20kHz

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2014, 04:11:57 pm
content: Sigh ... Robrenz, will you adopt me, please ?

author: WattSekunde
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2014, 10:34:30 pm
content: The two Philips PE1509 are mostly used. My father bought them before I am on this planet.The funny thing is the remote control "option". You have to remove some resistors and solder wires in place (see in PDF). Those were times ...The ELV was self build from a kit. I use it only for higher amps because of the annoying little fan.

author: daddario
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 10:22:21 am
content: These PE1509s have to be, if you can say this about test equipment, the cutest lab PSUs ever.According to the manual the front measures just 120x68mm. That's just... tiny.

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2014, 03:18:12 pm
content: similar to the mastech mini:I bought one for its size and simplicity, for when I needed something non-lab grade but small in size.

author: electrolux
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 02:55:45 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on December 09, 2012, 05:26:05 pmAin't got one.

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2014, 03:12:46 pm
content: Here's mine. A Thurlby PL320 with the K2 module. Nothing special but it's mine and I love itMy dad gave me this a while ago before I got into electronics properly. I didn't realise that PSUs are pretty expensive so I almost gave it away at one point. Glad i didn't though.The right hand side is adjustable to 2.2A at 32V. The left has two outputs. One 0-30V 1A output that can either be independently adjusted or set to track the main output. Then there's a 7A output on the far left that's adjustable between 4-6V.There's a date inside reading March 1984, so it's 30 last month! Works perfectly though and I recently calibrated the displays and it's absolutely spot on. And yes, it has those really "heavy" feeling pots.No fan and doesn't get very hot either.

author: madshaman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 06:47:01 pm
content: Quote from: IO390 on April 22, 2014, 03:12:46 pmThat's a nice one, you have a very good dad.

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 08:09:18 pm
content: I guess this post will become a little plug for an obscure new Chinese company. I have this small and portable variable DC power supply that I got off aliexpress maybe a year ago, it's named Gopher CPS-3205L (32V @ 5 A). I only paid $65 with shipping, but even after a year I haven't considered getting a better one. It's great. As you can see on the pictures it only has one knob and a switch, a switch to set the voltage or amps, and a knob that you can push to select digit and turn to adjust. The specifiations can be found here:http://gophertc.com/en/cps-3205Here's some pictures:On the first picture, it's set to 13.37 V, my cheap ass Vichy read 13.37 V. Overall very accurate.On the second picture it's set to 13V, the multimeter reads 12.58 V across the 33 ohm resistor. The resistor reads 32.9 ohm, there's 12.58 V across, 12.58/32.9 = 328 mA (as shown on the current reading on the PSU). This current reading can be off at low values I've noticed though.The third and forth picture is the inside, nothing special, just plain and simple cheap PSU. But it seems very well done, no bodging, no bad solder joints, good layout. What do you think?The rest are just bodged macro-shot attempts with an improvised extension tube.I think it's very good and cheap for a beginner, and it doesn't take much space on your desk either. I'd love to know what you people think about it.

author: johnmx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 09:01:06 pm
content: My favorite power supply!Specs:Dual isolated channel20V@3A maximum per channelConstant voltage and constant current modesUser maximum setpoints for safetyOperating Modes: Isolated, Series, Tracking and ParallelOutput power indicationLCD with touch screen4 User memories with custom names defined by userUser setpoints controlled by touch or rotary encoderUSB Monitoring/control (Isolated)Rotary encoder: exponential acceleration algorithm for perfect user experienceSingle toroidal power transformer for minimum size and weightPassive cooling (no noise)Size: 23x10x20 cmWeight: 3.4 kgDon’t ask me where I bought it, because it’s the only specimen in the universe! O0

author: madshaman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 10:43:17 pm
content: Quote from: TheAmmoniacal on April 23, 2014, 08:09:18 pmIt looks like it's meeting your needs. It's *really* hard to tell from the pictures what to think.Only way to know for sure would be to scope your PS under different scenarios and using a programmable load.If you have a scope, try hooking up your supply across a switch and a power resistor and probe the output of the PS while turning the switch on and off.Repeat the same test, but switching the PS on and off, both with switch open and closed.Other tests might destroy your supply, so I don't recommend. If you have a DC current probe, you can also look at the current signal.

author: mathsquid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 10:53:41 pm
content: I built this one a few days ago. It's a pretty normal 317/337 based dual rail based on a few schematics I found online.

author: con-f-use
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 11:32:34 pm
content: Sorry but I'm always against wood an cheap plastic on home made power electronics. This thing is a fire hazard.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 11:41:19 pm
content: Nothing wrong with plastic. The HP/Agilent E361X series are almost totally encased in plastic. Thick plywood is even harder to set on fire than plastic.

author: iloveelectronics
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2014, 02:30:02 am
content: Quote from: TheAmmoniacal on April 23, 2014, 08:09:18 pmThis looks like a neat little el cheapo unitI'm getting one myself just to have a look at. I may run some tests when I get it and post results here.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2014, 11:48:05 am
content: I was tired of shorting PS-ON wires and cutting molexes off computer PSUs all the time to work as temporary power-supplies for my projects, so I decided to make something a little easier to use. It's not variable voltage or current-controlling, but it does what I need it to do.Pins are nails soldered onto small FR4 squares. I primarily use alligator clips, so these work well.

author: switcher
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2014, 12:29:33 pm
content: WOW! I wouldn't want to fall asleep at the bench using that PSU!

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2014, 12:41:52 pm
content: You're fucking with us, right Whales? Please tell me you are.At least round off the tops...

author: AlfBaz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2014, 01:01:59 pm
content: Quote from: c4757p on April 24, 2014, 12:41:52 pmNo, No, no!Sharpen them up more!Serves to purposes1. no need to strip wires, just pierce the insulation2. It'll teach you about touching live components

author: richard.cs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2014, 02:49:54 pm
content: Quote from: AlfBaz on April 24, 2014, 01:01:59 pmI actually quite like this suggestion

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 12:36:50 am
content: Quote from: switcher on April 24, 2014, 12:29:33 pmThe OCP kicks in rather early and keeps the unit down until a power cycle. None the less, I don't let anything run while I'm asleep -- I've had mere AA batteries melt their holders out overnight before, something I don't want to repeat with anything else.Quote from: c4757p on April 24, 2014, 12:41:52 pmI've spent a lot of time making sure there was no way for my alligator clips to short out on one another, but I have not thought much about the mechanical safety of the nails. I'll smooth them offQuote from: AlfBaz on April 24, 2014, 01:01:59 pmxDShaw is a power supply. It menaces with spikes of brass.FYI the negative rails are merely token: draining more than a few mA across them and any other rail kills the unit. Even at the full potential of 24v, it's not enough to cause you harm when applied externally.My biggest concern when making this puppy was the choice of computer power supply. Not all PSUs are safe designs in the first place, let alone after years of moisture, heat and dust abuse. Investigation what they are made out of is important.Eg, would you call this a well designed 12V regulator?FromDeath of a Gutless Wonder I. It's a great read, as are the two sequels.Some designs do the same to create a 3.3V rail from the 5V rail. 2*0.7 approx vdrop on the diodes -> approx 3.6V. Not exactly best or safe practice, but it happens.Making sure your unit hasusefulOCP is also important. If it self destructs before the OCP/UVP kicks in, then it might as well not be there. Similarly some units are designed to fail the silicon before anything else in order to protect the expensive glass fuses. You can't have customers ringing up and complaining about how much fuse replacement costs -- it would defeat the whole purpose of not having a public phone number or traceable manufacture!(Yes these units are probably illegal in most countries, but nobody notices/cares. Don't trust cheap/free power supplies.)

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 01:13:24 am
content: Quote from: Whales on April 24, 2014, 11:48:05 amHmm... A new type of "bed of nails" testing perhaps

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 10:44:20 am
content: Quote from: Whales on April 25, 2014, 12:36:50 amThis all applies to car PSUs for computers too;THIS IS NOT AN ACCEPTABLE ATX PSU NOT EVEN FOR A CARPUTER!Spend 3x the amount, get something likethis, which is still sweet fuck all and get something that won't cook a few transistors every time you start your car!

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 10:58:43 am
content: Quote from: peter.mitchell on April 25, 2014, 10:44:20 amLink is not working for me.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 11:00:47 am
content: fixt

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 04:23:25 pm
content: Quote from: peter.mitchell on April 25, 2014, 10:44:20 amI don't have any itx's in my car, but for home use, I've used those (or like it) pico-psu's and they seem fine. what's the problem with them?160 seems a bit much. I've used 80 or 90's before for years at a time (at home) with no issues. one that I got looked scary for its solder job, but it actually did function ok.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 06:53:33 pm
content: no fusing, sweet bugger all filtering and regulation, no clamping ect. if your running a mini itx board from a large 12v plug pack, its probably fine, but dealing with automotive supply? nope. can have severe brown out during cranking, so you need boost as well as buck, and there are a lot of high transients too. basically, the main 12v rail is connected to the input with only a fet in between and the switchers are for the 5v and 3v rails. see this being an issue?

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 07:12:18 pm
content: ok, its about the 12v source, then. yes, the car environ is more challenging for atx style psu outputs.for home use, it sounds like you don't have a problem with the pico's. they sure are convenient and fanless. I feed mine with 3-5a of current from a 12-19v power brick and that comes from wall current.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2014, 04:11:56 am
content: Those picos look interesting. The problem is my 12V source already is an ATX power supplyYou might be able to get away with hooking this directly onto a car's ~12Vifit's controlled and smoothed enough (modern gadget-filled cars?), but I'm only familiar with older car designs that blow things up by habit. Hook a scope on your car and check the input tolerance of your unit before trying it.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2014, 05:35:10 am
content: New cars are the same electrically, very noisy. Still has motors and relays, and generally the electronics attached has to survive this. Remember the alternator is still the power source, and they are still controlled with a basic pulse width modulation to produce current, the PWM being voltage control only.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2014, 07:18:42 am
content: well considering the float voltage of a "12v" lead acid battery is between 13 and 14v... i'd say it's already a terrible starting point as the 12v rail of the pico psu isn't regulated... this also means you REALLY shouldn't use it with anything other than a "real" 12v source, i mean a 3s/4s lipo are both terrible because a 3s drops to 9v when approaching flat and a 4s is 16.8v when fresh of the charge! and if you bump your 12-19v 3-5a psu and it starts putting out 19v, you better make sure you have paddles in your boat because you're up shit creek.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 19, 2014, 08:48:09 pm
content: I have a new addition to the family.Yesterday at a certain car boot sale in Luton I managed to pick up this Solartron AS1410.2 Power Supply. It only cost me £5I believe it to be of 1967 sort of vintage. The AS1410.2 is a 30V 1A unit with external programming and master / slave abilities.The output voltage is set with the thumb wheels to a resolution of 100mV and the measured output is pretty much spot on. The current limit is set with the two knobs below the meter with a resolution of 10mA.The meter is unique in the way that it operates. Rather than display the output current directly, it displays the percentage of the set current limit.I'll have to take the lid off one day when I find some time.

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2014, 03:45:50 pm
content: Favorite would be the two Power Designs units, even though they're in need of some TLC. I got them with the thought of replacing the meter movements with a little LCD and mcu control, but the second I opened them up and saw the beautiful construction inside I lost the will to do anything but a faithful restoration. The 3650 uses a freaking variac for coarse voltage adjustment! Unfortunately flaky pots on the TW5005 make it essential to adjust the voltage BEFORE connecting the load, unless the load can tolerate intermittent 50V spikes as the wiper skips across the bad spots in the pots.Most used would be a little ATX PSU front end I made a long time ago as a poor recently-former student. Most of what I work on at home just needs 3.3, 5, or 12VDC, so it's met my needs pretty well. Regulation on this particular PSU is very clean even with no external load connected. The back has a panel mounted ATX connector so the power supply itself can live under the bench and fuses for each of the voltage rails. The knob controls a little LM317 adjustable reg for the channel with the green LED, and the other channels are +3.3V, +5V, and +12V respectively. The enclosure is an old parallel port switch box with some holes JB Welded over and some new ones drilled.Lately I've been wanting to do some more analog stuff at home, so a little dual tracking supply is somewhere on the long list of pending projects.

author: monochrome
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 13, 2014, 02:47:06 pm
content: Two German power supplies made by Statron Gerätetechnik GmbH. The guys at Statron are pretty cool, any problems or questions about their products and they will send you all schematics and stuff, even for the older models.Type 2224.1Single output, 0-24V DC 0-6A.10 turn voltage pot, 270' current pot.Cooling: 92mm fan.Type 5340.1Dual output, 0-12V DC 0-3A, 3~6~9~12V AC 3A.270' voltage and current pot.Cooling: convection.

author: jlmoon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 27, 2014, 05:14:58 pm
content: has great regulation..

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2014, 05:15:49 pm
content: Quote from: jlmoon on June 27, 2014, 05:14:58 pmWhat psu is that ? Regulation spec ?

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2014, 05:18:07 pm
content: That's a battery.

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2014, 06:07:33 pm
content: Rigol DP832Contrary to Daves review, I actually really like the numeric keypad layout and finger/thumb wheel. It seems a brilliant use of space instead of a seperate numeric keypad in (which could be in the phone style or computer keyboard style opposites) and a separate knob. I've had no problem keying figures in. Maybe because I am from the age of old fashioned telephone dials and Strowger exchanges. lol!Lovely PSU. I am aware of thevery trivialproblems with it. Which is more than can be said for any other unknown PSU on the market.Sadly, mine is the latest 1.09 and so I can't hack it with licence keys (as yet anyway).

author: nuno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2014, 12:28:04 pm
content: My old and my new PSU (guess which is which).

author: d3javu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2014, 04:37:17 pm
content: Quote from: nuno on July 25, 2014, 12:28:04 pmThat second picture is a power supply?Show us inside

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2014, 05:03:40 pm
content: Quote from: Macbeth on June 27, 2014, 06:07:33 pmDidn't someone just hack it the other day.

author: nuno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2014, 12:36:59 am
content: Quote from: d3javuOk, you asked for it!It was wall plugable power supply with 5 or 6 fixed selectable output voltages. Some pins broke, I opened it, saw there was an LM317 inside and added the pot to have a variable power supply. Put it in the 1st "box" I found (it's a butter box...). I actually used this for a few years.

author: Simon123
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2014, 12:56:14 am
content: Nuno nice case.Here is mine.Incredible specs:12V 0.4A5V 0.5A-12V 0.1AIts actualy TV supply card from 1988.

author: nuno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2014, 12:33:00 pm
content: CoolI guess an LM317 would double your PSU's functionality too

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 05:34:02 pm
content: Quote from: PedroDaGr8 on July 26, 2014, 05:03:40 pmThank you for pointing this out! I will try it in the next few minutes!https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/sniffing-the-rigol%27s-internal-i2c-bus/msg480687/#msg480687Our Gallic friendaureldeserves much respect!I am going to try the onlinehttp://riglol.3owl.com/server, and thanks beforehand tostudio25for the service!

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 07:39:21 pm
content: Ok, some DP832 v1.09 PSU hacking porn, LOL!Before:After a very long fangled routine to update the bugger:(Realistically I will never need any of the options other than the accuracy upgrade. I might try the LAN for a bit of fun as I believe it has a webserver available!)And proof that the accuracy upgrade works, once you "turn it off and on again", that extra digit! I think it's great for circuits that only consume milli-watts. Check it out:I'm a happy bunny!

author: 1xrtt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2014, 11:52:57 pm
content: Those are mine:HP6111A - My preferred. Just dial the voltage and that's it. Stability is a plus.PS503A - Second. Very compact and there's the modularity of the frame.PM2811 - I think I overdid here. Don't really need it, but got a good deal. Sometime in the near future I'll play with the GPIB on it.

author: Rolo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2014, 08:23:08 am
content: As a first post I like to show my bench PSU, it's a Delta Elektronika E030-3. This is a Dutch brand, famous for the quality of their powersupply's. It's old but works perfect.It delivers 0 to 30 volts up to 3 Amps. Originaly it came with an analog meter that had to be switched to Volts or Amps. Not very practical so I made a digital meter based on an Arduino and a ASC712 current sensor board.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 09:29:42 pm
content: I have a pair of Tektronix PS503 power supplies and they have become my favorites. I really like the dual tracking floating outputs.If I were to design a kit power supply, I would duplicate their feature set although not their exact design.I am including a photograph I took from when I changed their input capacitors.

author: nadona
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 10:25:10 pm
content: @ David HessThank you for showing your favorite set up.Could you elaborate the interesting things(at least to me) in the pictures?1) Why two wire connection instead of one from the input cap? Is it factory default or you modified it?2) What those two resistors do between Lo and Hi terminal of DM502? Why two Rs instead of one?3) What is the purpose of the caps on the second DM502?Thank you in advance.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 10:47:12 pm
content: Quote from: nadona on September 24, 2014, 10:25:10 pmThe original aluminum electrolytic capacitors, one of which is shown in that photo for comparison purposes, were wired the same way. One side of each wire goes to the rectifier and the other side of each wire goes to the input to the regulator so the resistance in series with the capacitor itself is minimized.When I replaced the big can style capacitors, I selected replacements based first on diameter so they would snap into the gray mounting brackets which held the original capacitors.Also seen in that photo is an internal LED I added to show that the power supply is active when the cover is off.Quote1.10 Mohms is just a more convenient test resistance for the high resistance range and I did not have any 1% resistors higher than 1.00 Mohm handy. 1.00 Mohms would leave the most significant digit potentially changing between 0 and 1. That DM502 was measuring temperature using a probe at the time for no particular reason.QuoteI was replacing solid tantalum capacitors which had shorted in a Tektronix PG506 pulse generator. The NOS (new old stock) solid tantalum capacitors shown in the photograph were being burned in and tested for leakage before installation.The leakage shown is 3.1 microamps for 10 capacitors in parallel but 2.48 microamps of that is caused by the 10 Mohm shunt resistance of the voltmeter so the actual average capacitor leakage was 0.062 microamps which is considerably better than the maximum rated leakage of about 4 microamps which might be specified for a typical 25 volt 15 microfarad solid tantalum capacitor.

author: nadona
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 12:04:56 am
content: Thank you very much again for the detailed explanation.Could you draw how all these are connected for leakage test?Why leakage test for tantalum? Are you doing it because they are NOS or you do all the time for tantalum for a certain applications?The picture of tantalum caps drew my attention because recently two of my Datron 1062 were stopped working. Same reason. A tantalum cap in the power supply section shorted while bringing down the analog board's input resistance to less than 1ohm. First time I smell the tantalum. I have two of 1082 and thinking to replace the same tantalum to other type of cap.Maybe I start a new thread on how to test leakage and why?Regards,

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 11:59:31 am
content: Quote from: nadona on September 25, 2014, 12:04:56 amThere is not all that much to it. The power supply is configured as a current limited 0 to 40 volt source with one of the multimeters measuring low values of current in series. The other multimeter is measuring the voltage across the capacitors which were all tied in parallel. If the leakage current had been high, I would have disconnected them in sets to find the bad one or ones.I just hacked the test together in a few minutes and let it run overnight.QuoteThese were NOS solid tantalum capacitors of unknown heritage; there is a local surplus electronics store here which has bins of them and they are inexpensive compared to new ones.There *are* sometimes reasons to grade capacitors for low leakage but in this case it was just to weed out bad or marginal ones before installing them into the circuit. Why replace a shorted tantalum capacitor with another bad or marginal capacitor?I had already tested them for capacitance and dissipation factor. It would be nice if someone made a portable capacitor tester which did capacitance, dissipation, ESR, and leakage but I have never seen such a thing. When I was picking the capacitors out of the bins, I had my multimeter with me to check each one for capacitance and resistance which is not as good as a real leakage test at the rated voltage but better than nothing. I did not find any bad ones.QuoteWhen solid tantalum capacitors first became available, they were optimistically advertised as *not* requiring voltage derating for reliable operation. In this specific case, 20 volt capacitors were used on the plus and minus 16.5 volt supplies although I have run across 16 volt solid tantalum capacitors used on 15 volt supplies and 6.3 volt solid tantalum capacitors used on 5 volt supplies before. One was shorted and after replacing it, the *other* one shorted a few hours later while I was watching so I stopped by the surplus electronics store and picked up some suitable replacements for all of the similar tantalum capacitors in the circuit; this was cheaper than ordering new ones online.The replacements were rated at 25 volts which I figured was derating enough.In general you can replace solid tantalum capacitors with good aluminum electrolytic capacitors of 2 to 4 times the value to get an equivalent ESR but if you have an inexpensive source of solid tantalum capacitors, I would use the same type as a replacement because they have better high frequency characteristics. No matter what kind of capacitor is used, reliability will be improved if they are voltage derated.

author: nadona
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 02:34:53 pm
content: @David Hess;As I expected, more than perfect answerRegards,

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2015, 05:38:50 am
content: Shameless bump .... more please ...

author: PTR_1275
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2015, 05:46:42 am
content: Hi guys,Fairly new here, but I have been salivating my way through the pages of power supplies. Good to see some TTi power supplies and I'm surprised that I haven't seen many "Big" power supplies.I do a little bit of electronics work, small level PIC work mostly, then the main work I do is testing battery chargers and solar regulators for battery charging, so I need a fair bit of current for testing them. The lab isn't where I would like it to be but when compared to a year ago I have added a lot of extra stuff. Currently I have 5500w of DC load bank capability in the rack with a HP 6050 mainframe on the way.Power supplies that I use areTTi PL330. 0-32v 0-3a linear supplyManson 0-32v 0-21a SMPSThe big one (Recently bought) HP 6012A. Really cool auto ranging 0-60v 0-50a (Maximum of 1000w).

author: dom0
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2015, 02:31:16 pm
content: 70 V (+-0-35 V), 500 mA supply. Transformer is grossly over-dimensioned ; probably has something like 200 VA. Based on HP schematics. Heat sink is dimensioned for ambient temperature of 50 °C.Adjustable tracking ratio with calibrated 1:1 (actually... 1:-1) position ; adjustable current limit for both channels at once. Two digit meters, very fast -> transients are easily observed. Separate output on/off switch.Total weight about 4.7 kg. Case is a recycled steel drawer with aluminium top and back panels. Transformer mounted flipped on steel beams.Very handy, used it all the time even before I completed the meter lately.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2015, 10:46:08 pm
content: I've just obtained a mains->~12Vx20A toroid. Once I'm finished my current project I'm going to rewind this and make myself a ~24V variable power supply with current limiting.

author: 4cx10000
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2015, 11:23:26 pm
content: First picture, yeah I know real bad, on top right of the instrument shelf is a Thurlby. Had it for years but now I'm planing to order a TTi CPX400D, any comment on that PSU?

author: steve30
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2015, 11:26:45 pm
content: Here's a picture of my PSU. It is shown powering a couple of white LEDs. I retrofitted my own variable linear PSU board into the old fixed output PSU.It gives a fixed +5V (up to a couple of amps) and -5V (a few milliamps), and a variable 2.2V to 24V @ just over an amp.The red panel meter measures current in mA, and the green panel meter reads the variable voltage. It really could do with some better panel meters as these cheap ebay ones aren't too accurate. The blue 10 turn pot adjusts the voltage and the silver single turn pot adjusts the current limit. Obviously things need mounting in the case properly.The circuit design isn't excellent but it works reasonably well for my use. Hopefully I'll make a page on my website about it in due course.

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2015, 08:29:08 am
content: HP 721A, modded with 10-turn voltage pot and turncounting knob:

author: Ysjoelfir
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2015, 01:34:42 pm
content: My absolute favorite PSU is the first one, the colourful one (no, it's not sparkling!). My father build it in the 1980s after a plan made by ELV - one of the few products designed by ELV that doesn't have ANY special ELV branded Item in it. Sadly, it broke down shortly after my father died because of my inhability to think clearly at that time. I will repair it in the future, but maybe I need some help from you there.However, why do/did I love this thing?- 19" Rackmount formfactor- Two independant voltage sources, one can go slightly into the negative, the other one can be current limited- nice feel, rigid build quality- ground lift switch- fixed output voltages- 4 wire output at one channel- remote controllable- I love analog instruments!- Dad build itNo cons at this one, for what it was designed, it seems perfect to me.We used that thing in the basement lab, so when I was working in my teenagers room I needed something, too. I first build the big black 19" rackmount thing, which is basicaly a high voltage tube regulated power supply on the one channel, combined with a variac (is that the right word for a variable auto transformer?) and a 40V 25 amps power transformer at the second channel. This thing was very usefull when I started working with tubes, but it has some negative aspects...pros:- generates nice high voltage for most common tube experiments (up to 360V at 100mA short time)- Output voltage is very stable because of a big output cap and good regulation of the EL34 tube- 40V 25A AC output is more then enough for most experiments.- I still love analog instruments...!cons:- DC voltage and current too low to use in advanced tube experiments- DC path is dangerous and has a slow regulation due to big output capacity- no low voltage high current DC output- high voltage transformer is too small to handle 100 mA continuously. It should have been able to deliver up to 450V, but with any significant load attached it drops down to around 360V.- nobody wanted to carry that beats up to the third floor when I moved into this apartment, so I had to carry it by myselfOne of the biggest cons at this one, besides the immense weight, was that it didn't deliver any DC voltage with anything above 100 mA power (actually, it didn't deliver any DC voltage below 50V at all...). So I had to get another one. After some projects of building a variable switch mode power supply (which failed spectacular) I was frustrated and bought the third one, a noname Power Supply which is capable of delivering 2x 0-30V / 3A. This is what I use now on a regular base, mainly because I didn't repair Dads old PSU untill now. That thing is quite okay, it's one of those range switching PSUs that use relais to switch the secondary transformer windings. I found that under different brands all over the world, for example I saw one labled Mastech, one from Conrad Toolcraft and so on...pros:- Quite compact. No heavyweight!- two independant channels with enough voltage/current capability to work with- Channels can be combined in series or parallel.- GND is floating but can be connected to earth via a bridge- stays cold due to the switching-thingycons:- switching-thingy produces some noise which can disturb sensible electronics.- digital displays... meh. I don't like them. It's nice for fine adjusting the voltage, but for amps I definitely prefer the old fashioned analog meter.- cheap build quality

author: BFX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2015, 06:11:05 pm
content: Here is my favorite power supplies in order of usage1. 2x HP6632B 0-20V/ 0-5A2. Tesla SZ 3.81 0-30V/0-1A3. R&S NGMO1 0-15V / 0-5A4. HP6200B 0-40V/0.75A or 0-20v/1.5A

author: dom0
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2015, 06:20:10 pm
content: What is that RF thing with a dozen BNCs on the front panel? Some kind of combined analyzer-generator (like those cell tower survey things)?

author: BFX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2015, 09:45:31 am
content: Quote from: dom0 on September 03, 2015, 06:20:10 pmIt's Anritsu 3681A signal generator.

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 02:55:03 pm
content: My latest from *bay, bought for opamp fun.It really looks like that , mint condition./Bingo

author: MatthewEveritt
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 09:06:04 pm
content: My main power supply, a solartron as1164.2

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 09:16:59 pm
content: That Solartron is actually a neat looking power supply.

author: MatthewEveritt
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 09:25:08 pm
content: Thanks, I like it. The three dials for voltage are really nice for quick setting / tweaking, and have the bonus of making it look far more complex and impressive than it really is.

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 09:40:03 pm
content: Hmm... I'm thinking this supply is more of the female variety...

author: Joule Thief
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2015, 03:50:49 am
content: Quote from: Macbeth on October 08, 2015, 09:40:03 pmwith knobs that nice, I would prefer the WOMAN on top.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 03:06:32 am
content: I have a kepco ate 75-8, gives 80v at 8 amps, modded with 2x 4 1/2 digits panel meters, modded the pots with multi-turns ones, heavy as hell, 864 watts of juice ... a very noisy 120vac fan inside.Had to put the fan on a speed controller/dimmer, but practical when i short this puppy, it output lots of heat at maximum outputs.

author: med6753
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 12:20:18 pm
content: I have several homebrew supplies but this is my "go to" when requiring high current. 1.2 VDC - 15 VDC at a continuous 10 Amps. The heart of the supply is a LM396K regulator which is the big brother to the LM317. The case was salvaged from a 1950's EICO Kit 6V/12V automotive battery charger/eliminator.A peak at the inside. It ain't elegant but it works. Hidden under the heatsink is a fan.

author: SharpEars
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 25, 2015, 06:32:46 pm
content: At up to 4000 volts, I think I've got it covered. Here it is lighting an LED with 10 mA (V setting: 4kV C setting: 10 mA, CC mode triggered):

author: julius oe.
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2016, 11:33:32 am
content: Hi there,here is my main PSU-Frontend for high current and fixed voltage projects. As you can see it's going on a usual ATX-male plug, so i can use different ATX-supply units (in case of defects).Some extras: Analog AmpMeter, hour-counter, isolated-ground, power LED, "all ok?" LED, decorative broken Op-Amp.I could have save me all those plugs by using a nice switchthat idea appeared just last week... on the other hand side: I'm actually using a modded computer power plug for a +12V,5V,Grd.,-12V rail. comes in handy sometimes.dodgy but it dose what i need!

author: julius oe.
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2016, 11:47:51 am
content: still running project(2.run):a classical AC-DC PSU. I already had it running well... then i was testing that neat display watching it reaching 5 or 6 Amps. Then the magic smoke escaped. I forgot that the regulator board only can handle 2 AmpsI'm still looking for a way to get everything tight to the case.So here is my second try and I'm sure it will be running soon.

author: 4cx10000
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2016, 12:41:42 pm
content: After some serious thoughts I decided to buy the TTi CPX400D and I wont regret it. It has been on the shelf for nearly a year now and every time I switch it on I am transferred into lyrical mode

author: Helix70
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 19, 2016, 11:42:18 am
content: Here is my cheap-ish supply. It is low noise and works well, but i hate the single turn pots that you have to brush lightly to get the voltage you want.One day I will have an E3631A......

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2016, 01:09:12 am
content: My home made bench supply. Uses an MC1566L that is controlled by an MC68701. Keypad was from an old girlfriend's phone. The VF displays both current and voltage. It has an RS-232 port on it for control and read back. Built sometime in the early 80's.

author: bitbanger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2016, 06:18:36 am
content: I'm a big fan of these older BK linear supplies - very portable, robust, and easy to service/adjust. Certainly the one I "use the most" to power on things for quick testing.The HP's get the "serious" work.Banana jack addition is waiting for a rainy day.

author: BFX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2016, 07:19:18 pm
content: Also second HP 6632B upgraded to front terminalsIs little pity that I haven't original HP banana terminals but it's enough.

author: ketil b
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2016, 09:55:58 pm
content: Quote from: BFX on March 20, 2016, 07:19:18 pmI have foundthesewhich a pretty close.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2016, 10:31:16 pm
content: There is at least one other ebay seller that has the gray binding posts with 5 different ring colors including green. The only problems I've found is that the gray color is a bit to the brown side which doesn't look so good with some equipment, and the posts are not cross drilled.

author: BFX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2016, 11:03:09 pm
content: Quote from: ketil b on March 20, 2016, 09:55:58 pmIt's nice but I don't believe this Chinese productsI would prefer used original connectorsModified: By the way put to the e-shop example broken piece (see picture) is unacceptable

author: Macbeth
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2016, 12:43:26 am
content: Quote from: rdl on March 20, 2016, 10:31:16 pmI did my HP 6632B front panel with the 5 colour ones. I had to use ALL of them for sense, earth, etcGrey colour seems spot on to me. Lack of drill hole really hasn't been an issue - except when I stupidly tried to melt some wire which worked perfectly including embedding itself in the red output ring!Oh, of course I had to do the faceplate graphics to stop that space being so wasted and ugly. I just printed on to some laser OHP acetate I had and stuck on with sellotape. I've actually got some sheets of water transfer paper to do a more professional job but I have better things to do now I got bored of pimping my 6632B

author: basinstreetdesign
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2016, 07:09:07 pm
content: Quote from: julius oe. on March 01, 2016, 11:33:32 amNow THAT'S what you call Home Brew!

author: basinstreetdesign
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2016, 07:23:45 pm
content: I got tired of scrounging up ad-hoc power for a tube circuit or just foregoing the project at all after a long timeso finally I decided I needed to have a tube-based power supply with many outputs, some regulated and some not. So I took some parts I had from a non-working Tek 545 scope, including the amazing power transformer (with 7, count-em SEVEN 6.3VAC filament windings), a spare bookshelf and some junked meters and built one. This is it and I wrote an instructable for it:http://www.instructables.com/id/Tube-Power-Supply/

author: setq
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2016, 07:27:47 pm
content: Necroposting here but this is my current favourite, testing tube heaters. Need to parallel them to get more current in this case as the tube needed more than 500mA:

author: bitbanger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2016, 05:36:07 am
content: Impressive build! Even to a non tube guy.

author: bitbanger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2016, 08:47:58 am
content: I'll confess: my little HPs have taken a back seat the past few months. Absolutely loving this TTI supply, my new go to.

author: PTR_1275
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2016, 02:39:47 pm
content: I do love the TTi power supplies. Got a few of the pl330 single ones in the workshop and I recently got a plh120. The extra controls on the newer ones is really good. Still has the analog knobs, but you can set the voltage range of them, lock the settings and all sorts of other things.

author: Ysjoelfir
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2016, 02:31:04 pm
content: Quote from: basinstreetdesign on November 01, 2016, 07:23:45 pmEven though I tend to judge everyone ripping an old tek apart (there is no way a tube tek can't be repaired!), your outcome is absolutely beautiful, I love it! I have two spare Tek transformers laying around and was thinking about the same thing, but I never wanted to use it for a PSU since I always think that I maybe get this specific scope which needs a new transformer... Maybe I should think about using it for a PSU again.

author: Fortran
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 11:33:53 am
content: My favorite PSU is my HP6034L.0-60V 200W with GPIB. It's a bit noisy though so I'm only using it when I need a bit more grunt.My most used PSU's are actually some dirt-cheap buck regulators connected to their own 12V supply and tucked neatly inside my bench socket panel. (I think that's what they're called)So 4x 0-12V 2A and a terrible ripple above 1A. They work good enough at low load though.Since most of what I do is in the 1.8-5V <250mA realm, I use these every day.If I need a cleaner output I've got a few of those 0-30V 3A supplies as well, to fill the void between the panel ones and the HP.

author: rrinker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 05:45:09 pm
content: That's quite a nifty idea, build power supplies right into the bench.

author: Fortran
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 06:45:41 pm
content: They're not exactly in the bench.It's a cable management channel hanging on the rails for the shelves, so I can move itOne of the most useful things I've built. A mains breaker, lots of outlets (each group fused @ 6A), a ground-fault-interrupter (that trips before my main one), a panel meter, earth jacks on the bottom for ESD stuff.And of course, the power supplies.This thing feeds my whole lab except the computer stuff, so when I turn it off, everything is disconnected.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 06:51:50 pm
content: Quote from: Fortran on November 06, 2016, 06:45:41 pmThanks a lot, that DIN rail really inspires me, going to build exactly like that.That rail is in my shopping list now.

author: rqsall
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 07:07:11 pm
content: Quote from: Fortran on November 06, 2016, 06:45:41 pmHow do you make sure the GFI in your rail trips before the main GFI? Just using one that has a lower current at which it trips? From what I read searching forums when I was thinking about this, that using one with a lower current doesn't guarantee it will trip before the main one.Really curious, because I could use something like that.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 07:32:15 pm
content: Lower trip current still is a crapshoot with a short circuit line to PE, or even line to neutral, as the energy is enough in the single cycle to trigger both to disconnect. The only benefit is that the build up of stray currents in multiple device EMC filters will trip the lower one first.Still, like the 2 rail system, and the nice socket sets as well. U see you have pretty much the same DIN mounting power meter I have, though I put the one i have into a small 4 wide DIN box with input and output cables, using a standard SA plug and a dual IEC socket ( old PC dual IEC power lead) for a connection. for things that do not have an IEC socket i have a flying lead with a SA standard socket outlet on it, with a 15A breaker as it was a recycled industrial socket outlet that came with a 15A breaker switch.

author: Fortran
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 07:42:45 pm
content: BravoV: Be prepared for a hefty price-tag.The aluminium ones are crazy expensive, and the outlets for them isn't all too cheap either.I think my setup landed on near 500€ total.rqsall: Yes it's a 10mA GFI and my main one is 30mA. It probably can trip the main one, but so far it hasn't. Don't remember the specs but I believe my 10mA is faster acting then the 30mA.I could have gone without it. It's mostly there so I don't have to set all my clocks if I screw something up. So if I trip both, it's just a minor inconvenience.If Ireallyneed my lab to not trip the rest of the house, I'd put the GFI in the distribution box and wire that group separately.

author: rqsall
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 08:34:08 pm
content: Quote from: Fortran on November 06, 2016, 07:42:45 pmYeah, I have a similar reason, except with me it's not the clocks I'm worried about, but more the wrath of my son when he's in some MMORPG tournament and a probe I'm holding slips ....

author: Fortran
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2016, 09:46:22 pm
content: Put one of those electric locks on his door.If you slip with the probe he can't get out, giving you a few minutes to escape.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 01:40:19 am
content: Quote from: Fortran on November 06, 2016, 07:42:45 pmDamn, how much that aluminium bar alone ? I really love the design that it has two separated rails, one for the DIN stuffs, and the one at the bottom for the cables.I guess I will have to improvise using plain multiboard wood planks + DIN rail and elbow grease eh ?

author: Fortran
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2016, 08:52:24 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on November 08, 2016, 01:40:19 amThe single rail ones are about 100€ per 2.5m lengths.Dual rails are about 150-180€.You can probably find cheaper ones, but I'm guessing you'd need to cough up at least 100.

author: lmester
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2016, 03:32:55 pm
content: I got some used transformers for free and decided to make a dual adjustable PSU. It started with a pair of the cheap PS kit boards available online. Quite a lot of mods were needed to make them work properly. Several components that came with the board were under rated. rectifier diodes, pass transistor and shunt were overloaded. Op amps above rated voltage.I don't like noisy fans. I added a PIC based temperature controller for the fan. Also, the transformers have multiple primary taps. I switch them to a higher voltage primary tap when low PS output voltage is selected. This drops the secondary voltage. In commercial PSU's this is done on the secondary side. Cuts power dissipation and keeps the fan off as much as possible.This is made mostly from parts that I had on hand. It still cost me about $50. Most of that for the panel meters, 10 turn pots and some nice knobs.Unless you have the expensive parts on hand, it's going to be cheaper just to buy one. Transformers alone will probably get you close to the price of a chinese power supply.

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2016, 10:24:02 pm
content: Nice job on the power supply. Is that a HP5335 besides it.What is the large black box?

author: lmester
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2016, 02:54:27 am
content: Quote from: Vgkid on December 07, 2016, 10:24:02 pmI may add a preset voltage switch to the power supply. I often use 3.3V and 5V. Quicker than twirling knobs.Yes, A HP5335A to the left. The black box is a wavetek 178 waveform synthesizer. Finished repairs and calibration on it a week or so ago. Now I need to find a place for it.Here is a post with some pics of it:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/repairing-a-free-wavetek-178-waveform-synthesizer/msg1068993/#msg1068993I should see if there is a thread on here for "Show us your favorite huge heavy boat anchor instrument". The power supply is nearly as heavy as the wavetek. Linear power supplies are quiet (low noise). I'm very noisy (Groaning & grunting) when I need to lift it

author: djos
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 12, 2016, 01:19:01 am
content: Here's my Homebrew PoS made from a PC power supply:Edit: Argh picture troubleHad some brain fade originally and had to move the ground terminal.I do intend to build a better one at some point which has fully adjustable current & voltage with a purty digital display.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2016, 03:49:20 am
content: Quote from: lmester on December 07, 2016, 03:32:55 pmOr better yet, a quality used PSU from eBay.Granted, this is far more of a challenge outside of the US, but it's not impossible based on what I've seen.

author: BFX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2017, 10:19:53 pm
content: Quote from: BFX on March 20, 2016, 07:19:18 pmFinally I found good and looks like original terminals for my HPsNot this crappy Chinese from ebay:)http://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/#search=BS-244MN&cleanParameters=1

author: mmagin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2017, 12:01:01 am
content: I never liked that 'black for ground, red for everything else' on that era of HP supplies. On the supply I had to repair I just replaced all three with some good pomona binding posts, in red, black, and green.

author: rrinker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2017, 02:09:22 am
content: I guess they were past that by the 3610 days? My HP branded 3610 has red, black, and green for the earth. Unless a prior owner changed them, but they look the same age as the rest of the case.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2017, 06:33:22 am
content: Quote from: rrinker on January 19, 2017, 02:09:22 amIt was a change made during production. It happened sometime before the name change from Hewlett Packard to Agilent. There were other cosmetic changes made as you can see. You can find HP branded ones with the three color binding posts and the lighter color scheme, but they're not all that common.

author: rrinker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2017, 02:03:34 am
content: Actually, mine IS the lighter color like the Agilent one, but with an HP brand. I'll have to nab a picture. The spacing of the model number and specification line is in between those two - the "0-8V" part starts on the middle of my display, not over by the Amps label like the HP one and not so far to the left as the Agilent one.

author: Radio Tech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2017, 02:34:08 pm
content: This is probably my most used PSU at the time. It is a Harrison Laboratories 6263A.0-18 volts0-10 amps.Made in the early 60's and still works like a charm.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2017, 03:28:21 am
content: I prefer the later styling as seen on Agilent 3610 (and other) power supplies but for some reason want one with the Hewlett Packard name on it. I check ebay off and on, but haven't found a good one at the right price. It's possible they only made them that way for one model year.

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2017, 06:36:46 am
content: Quote from: BFX on January 18, 2017, 10:19:53 pmYes! Those look like the right ones, in the newer-generation light gray.Upon closer inspection of the zoomed-in image on TME's site, there are subtle differences from the genuine ones, but it's very close. Good find.I wonder who makes them. The only other place I could find them is Amazon France.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2017, 04:39:52 pm
content: You can find the "gray with colored trim rings" type binding posts on ebay. They are hard to filter because there doesn't seem to be a standard way of describing them. I have bought from a couple of different sellers and the items received appear to be identical. The quality is fine. The metal post is not cross-drilled. The gray color I received is only close*. The lightness is similar to the Agilent, but is of a slightly browner shade, more like the HP color. If you are really picky about the color match, you would probably want to buy a matched set from Keysight. The last time I checked was about 2 years ago, and the cost was nearly $50 for a set of three.* point being, you are not likely to get a perfect match as the color probably varies a lot from batch to batch.

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2017, 09:34:49 pm
content: The ones on eBay that aren't cross-drilled have a very large, donut-like colored ring, quite different from the thinner, hard-edged HP one. However, it would be the next in line for similarity after the TME ones. So far, TME has the best reproduction as far as ring color & size, fluting on the post, and coving on the base.In the past, I too saw the binding posts for sale on Keysight's Find a Part. However, when I checked last night they were no longer listed, not even as NFTS.

author: BU508A
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 07:55:19 pm
content: Hi,here are two of my PSU:- a Rohde & Schwarz NGB 70 / 5 --- 0 ... 70V and 0 ... 5A- from the famous german electronic magazine elrad a dual power supply --- 0 ... +50V and 2,5A & 0 ... -50V and 2,5Aelrad November 1985Schematics can be found here:https://www.mikrocontroller.net/topic/183517The PCB was designed by myself last year, because my first attempt was really ugly(ok, this was back in 1989)

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 01:20:25 am
content: That Elrad is mighty tidy inside. Nice job!

author: joetorelli
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2017, 12:45:52 am
content: Here is a Power Supply I use for my Arduino Projects.It is a 24v 5a MeanWell and two POWER SUPPLY MODULE M2L8 from ebay.I stuffed it into an old case. Total cost was under $70.Fits perfectly under my Fluke 45!

author: JustSquareEnough
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 04, 2017, 02:47:49 am
content: Quote from: lmester on December 07, 2016, 03:32:55 pmnice job on this. i do agree on your statement though its definitely not cheaper to build I could have bought at least one used HP off ebay by now with what Ive spent on parts for my PSU. but I'm building it as a project to learn so from that aspect I think its worth it I am learning a lot.

author: rrinker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2017, 03:33:43 am
content: Quote from: joetorelli on February 04, 2017, 12:45:52 amHmm, now that I should duplicate - since I too have a Fluke 45 I could slide a power supply under.

author: boffin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 02:46:03 am
content: A radio shack 12v 'Battery Eliminator' with a chinese CV/CC module in it. Hard to end up with a smaller package on your desktop and still have CV/CC, although I doubt that without better cooling its ability to provide more than about an amp.

author: grifftech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 10:09:35 pm
content: http://griffinsworkshop.blogspot.com/2016/12/homemade-bench-power-supply.htmlmulti fixed rail, made it myself, added power switch after blog post

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2017, 05:14:18 pm
content: My power supplies are both Chinese.The linear 30V, 30V and 5V one has current limiting.But I changed both voltage adjust potentiometers to proper 10-turn ones, so now at least I can get the values I want.The single 60V one is a switch mode power supply I use to test solar, grid connected inverters. This one too has current limiting.Un saludo,Leo

author: Luminax
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2017, 06:38:37 am
content: Is this thread still alive?Submitting Kikusui PMX18-2A into the mosh pitI have tons other like Kenwood, GW-Instek etc... but none that I care to USE as of now... why drive a Lada when you have a BWM sporty

author: PTR_1275
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2017, 09:24:53 am
content: The Kikusui power supplies are nice, but it bothers me (probably more than it should) that the dart terminal is between the pos and neg terminals. This means you can't use leads like the Pomona 2bc / 2ba double banana plugs, which I have a lot of and use all the time.Is it a linear psu, or switching?

author: ted572
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2017, 10:44:53 pm
content: GOPHERT CPS-3205E Power Supply:I have attached the Calibration Procedure and Specifications for the GOPHERT CPS-3205E.By the way I added a small piece of thin (~ 0.03" thick) dark light filter (sheet stock) material between the LED Display on the PCB and the Front Panel on my units. This is to increase the contrast between the LED segments that are ON vs those that are OFF. This greatly improves the display so that you essentially only see the LED Display's active segments. This is a modification that could/should be done in all of the GOPHERT Power Supply models. I got samples of Sunlight Filter Sheet material from a store that sells and installs this stuff on home and commercial building windows to block uV, bright sunlight, etc.I have had my CPS-3205E for at least a year and it has been very reliable. It is a awesome Power Supply for it's capability, size, weight, accuracy, and cost (~ 75 USD eBay).Edit: Added picture (not my unit) of CPS-3205E as supplied without the LED Display Dark Filter I added.

author: Heiko1052
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 08, 2017, 12:01:16 pm
content: Hello, on my Danica TPS20 (with analog Voltage/Amp display) the 5 Volt dc is working ok. The adjustable 0-10 Voltage and 0-30 Voltage both gives an pernament output of - 0,531 volts. Does someone has any idee what this could be. I don't have an maintenance cirquit drawing). The transformer (ac) power is ok. Thanks, regards, Henk

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2017, 02:39:40 pm
content: Henk, suggesting you to post a new thread regarding your problem, rather than in here, as it wont get exposed too much.

author: badvoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2017, 05:15:04 pm
content: Hi Everyone,I purchased this ISO-TECH IPS-4303S DC Power Supply for my hobbyist electronics lab. I initially found myself confused by the interface, but as i used it more i finally got use to it, and its my go-to PSU now. I did a video introduction to this DC Power Supply on my YouTube channel below if your interested to find out more.https://youtu.be/HW80mMk9wE8RegardsBadvoc

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2017, 05:51:44 pm
content: Badvoc,That looks identical to theGW Instek GPD-4303s. I bet you could use their free remote software via the USB port.The difference in current between the 2 ranges at the end of your video is likely due to different burden voltages. I believe Dave has a video explaining burden voltage. Try setting your PSU to constant current mode and then check the two ranges. Note whether their is then a different voltage displayed on your PSU.Also, if you have a DSO, you may want to check for overshoot when the output is turned on. Especially on the far right fixed output channel. Some of the Instek GPD PSUs suffer from this.

author: badvoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2017, 06:00:27 pm
content: Quote from: mtdoc on May 08, 2017, 05:51:44 pmHi mtdoc, thanks for the info, i will check that out Dave's video on Burden voltage and your suggestion on CC mode, thanks again. Btw your spot on with the brand GW Instek, i bought this from RS Components and ISO-TECH brand appears to be an OEM brand under RS, although they are switching to their own RS Pro brand these days i have recently noticed.

author: BBBbbb
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 08, 2017, 06:09:06 pm
content: Quote from: badvoc on May 08, 2017, 05:15:04 pmIt's always nice to have user reviews on YT, and thanks for the effort, but to make these PSU reviews really useful think about including (buying) a scope as mtdoc suggested.

author: badvoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2017, 07:13:52 pm
content: Quote from: BBBbbb on May 08, 2017, 06:09:06 pmThank you BBBbbb, and good advice regarding a scope!

author: Heiko1052
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 09, 2017, 03:16:58 pm
content: Hi Blackdog. I'm a Dutchman to. I posted a problem with my TPS 20 PSU. I like it if You read it, and maybe You can answere my question. Regards, Heiko1052.

author: whitevamp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2017, 03:46:58 pm
content: the one i use the most is an old hp 6214 .. need to get a different one though.

author: Housedad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2017, 03:57:05 am
content: Out of four power supplies, it seems that this one is the one I use the most. Maybe I just like the meters more, or old stuff feels more comfortable for an old dude.GW Instek GPC-3020: The top one is used most. Then I have the other two supplies, Instek GPD-3303s.

author: t_ryner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2017, 04:02:11 am
content: How much does it weigh? (Ps: that is a beautiful board layout!)

author: Housedad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2017, 05:04:07 am
content: If you mean the Instek GPC-3020, it is 15.4 lbs.My bench layout is shown here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/whats-your-work-benchlab-look-like-post-some-pictures-of-your-lab/msg1179703/#msg1179703Or did you mean the board layout of someone else's PSU?

author: ManuelMcLure
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2017, 02:16:58 am
content: I'm a beginner, so they haven't gotten much use yet, but I have two homebrew power supplies. The larger one uses a 12V13A Cosel SMPS that goes directly to the binding posts to the left and the top set of PowerPoles and is also connected to the input of an AliExpress boost/buck CC/CV module that's rated 0-32V, 0-5A.The smaller blue supply is a linear supply using an LM1085IT-ADJ. It's designed for digital circuits and can be switched between 3.3V, 5V and an adjustable setting between 1.25V and about 6V for testing brownout conditions. This was my first attempt at designing and producing a PCB so I'm pretty happy with the results.The last picture is my new acquisition - I just got this yesterday. I haven't even opened it up yet, much less plugged it in. I'm planning on replacing the old electrolytic caps in it before applying power, just in case. But when I saw the picture, I had to have it. How could I say no to that face?

author: Cassiuspcb
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2017, 07:23:27 pm
content: 2x Power designs 6050C1x HP 6263B100% made in the USA!

author: djos
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 24, 2017, 10:02:32 pm
content: I recently replaced my ghetto power supply with a chinese special - which has turned out to be pretty decent for $69 AUD.It's 0-30V & 0-5A

author: Rolo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2017, 10:27:42 am
content: My second post in this thread, on September 20 2014 my favorite PSU was a Delta Elektronika E030-3. This one is gone from the bench now and in its place is the GWInstek GPD-4303S. Great unit, four channels but only a bit bigger footprint compared to the Delta.@Badvoc, this is the same unit as your ISO-TECH IPS-4303S, but the channel led's on the display are different, I have a clear indication of wich channel is controlled.

author: emax
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2018, 08:11:23 pm
content: I can not really say which one I use most. Actually, each of my PSUs has its own work to do. Over the years I have most used this one, just because it is so very old.It was my first PSU and I had build it myself - 35 years ago. I had no clue about design, no clue about electronics, there was no internet and no help far and wide. The only thing which was there, was an old transformer, a big 33000µF cap, a recitfier and some heatsinks.So I looked for a schematic and scaled it to what I thought was sufficient. Since the only transistor I knew in that time was the 2n3055, I took a bunch of them and mounted them on the heatsinks I had, went for a case to 'Conrad', which was -I guess- so to say the german RadioShack. And so I tacked it all together.BUT: It worked out of the box. It still works after 35 years, and you can short it at 25 amps. It stands like a rock with no thermal issues, for an hour as well as for a day or longer. If you switch it on, it sounds like a welding-transformer, and the noise intensifies under load.I used it for cutting foam, charging car-batteries and everthing which neede a controlled voltage or current. I've no idea about ripple.(and don't in fact want to know it).I decided to make some photographs, and especially for eevblog I've taken it apart after 35 years to take some pictures for you.Please, don't berate me for the "design". I was so proud of it and It did its job for more then three decades - and still does: I sometimes use it a a source for a 500W RC-airplane battery charger.SInce then, I have bought other PSUs, which are of course much better. I will show the most important ones in another post.The pictures show1. Front view. Pots: voltage fine, voltage coarse, current2. Rear view. Heatsinks for eight 2n30553. right side, heatsink for rectifier4. Inside. 35 years in the dark ...5. LM723, self-echted pcb, load-resistors6. Transistor provisioning with load-resistors.7. Front plate inside, volt meter, amp meter w. shunt.

author: emax
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2018, 09:38:46 pm
content: I have too many PSUs, but these are the other most important ones which I use really often or have a special relation with.First picture: With more income, I could afford a linear 2-channel supply, 2x40V/2.5A, separately, parallel or serial. I still have it in my workshop and use it for many purposes. In that time, it was a hell of money for me. I used this one most for my beginning electronic carreer (though I am still an analog-agnostic).Second: A decade ago, I started with electric RC-airplanes. They are real power devices and slurp up to 200 Amps of current (even more, but these guys are a different league). So I needed a bigger supply for battery-charging. It is a switched supply from "Elektro Automatik", a german high-quality brand. The supply is frequently used for charging and can provide 0-80V with currents from 0-60A at a maximum output of 1500 Watts. To load two or more 22V LiPo batteries of 15Ah with up to 30Aeachis not unusual and is an easy exercise for this thing. VERY high quality, good old german engineering.Absolutelyshort-circuit-proof and with sense-inputs.Third: For my work desk, I wanted a simple supply, this one delivers 0,5 to 32V, up to 2.8A. There are additional outputs with 5V and 12V. This little thingy is programmable with presets and is capable to run programmed sequences. For 128 Euro at Reichelt this is really good value for the money. The knobs are single digital-encoders, no fine/coarse separation, they onlylooklike that but work ok. I use it often whenever I test something on the desk, arduinos, pocket-lights or whatsoever.Fourth and fifth: My king of PSUs. With 10Kg of weight this is a real nugget (pun intended). I wanted four channels, programmability, and high quality - of build and of output as well. Alone the name guarantees both. FWIW: specs arehere.In face of money-devaluation this was so to say an investment and a tax-saver as well.You can set electronic fuses which switch off any dependend channel you have configured if an overvoltage or -current occurs on one "co-fused" channel. Of course, you can define arbitray signals for each single channel - independently. Every channel is capable of 0-32V and 0-10A, per channel limited to 160W. Total voltage in serial is 4x32V = 128V, total current in parallel is 4x10A = 40 Amps. The total device-limit of output is at 384W. Enough, I guess.This thing has no touch-screen, no klicki-bunti buttons, no unnecessary gimmicks. It's a bone-dry machine and just doesexactlywhat it's supposed to do. And it's worth every cent.I love this hulk.

author: JacquesBBB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2018, 02:05:20 pm
content: Quote from: Satbeginner on March 19, 2017, 05:14:18 pmWhich value are the 10-turn pots you put in. Did you changed the original 6.8k to 10 k ?

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2018, 02:47:57 pm
content: Quote from: emax on January 06, 2018, 08:11:23 pmIs it all the same with us EE's? Must have been around 1988 when I built my own lab supply - from similar prerequisites than yours.I had a transformer, some electrolytic caps, fan heatsink and a few other components as a starting point. So I made this one from scratch:The enclosure and digital meters were from Conrad, other parts purchased at a local electronics shop at Darmstadt (where I was an EE student then). All the electronics was build on perfboard, I didn't bother to draw a schematic diagram. Nobody told me a 250VA / 2x24V is not sufficient for a dual channel 24V / 5A lab supply, so built it to this spec. And, yes it worked. One can overload the transformer, I've attached a thermal sensor to it to keep it from overheating. I can't remember the details, but some way I've made a output stage out of 2 2N3773 and a BD139 that required only a bit more than the transistors Vbe drop to regulate, so the 24V goal was reached (with some ripple at max. current). I vaguely remember charge pump based auxiliary voltages of 5V below GND and 5V above input rail to do the trick.The fan is temperature controlled (on/off) by temperature sensors mounted on the heat sinks, same sensors shut down the output in case of over temperature (this happens if you short the output at max. current setting).The thing served me well until I found my way into TEA a few years ago, starting to buy fancy power supplies like the HP6632 and a quite unknown "Powerbox" that replaced my unit. It's still alive, but over the years some quirks found their way into it (e.g. the "---" display on one of the digital meters, or the not-always-working current limiting on one channel). Quite difficult to repair, since I never made a schematic and one needs to remove a lot of single wire to board connections to access the perf boards and the electronics. The voltage displays have a special feature: Auto-ranging between 9.99V and 99.9V fs range for better display resolution at lower voltages.

author: Calambres
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2018, 06:20:54 pm
content: I've got mostly two PS:The first is one I made when I was merely a kid. 24V and 8A. Short circuit proof and 2 x 2N3055 output stage. The initial case was much uglier than this and about 20 years ago I put it into this case and added a 220V fan. It has served me well for more than 40 years and only recently I had to change the *B-I-G* filter capacitor due to aging. Very low ripple.The second one is my (now) most used PS. A chinese cheapie that turned out to be quite good. 0-32V and 5A. Also very low ripple. I hacked it a bitNow I'm making another one just for fun. This one is a dual PSserial/parallel based on two ofthese ubiquitous cheap chinese kits.

author: emax
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2018, 06:38:53 pm
content: Quote from: capt bullshot on January 07, 2018, 02:47:57 pmI'm not really an EE. More a wannabe. Sadly, it's now too late for the university ...Quote from: capt bullshot on January 07, 2018, 02:47:57 pmThis is WAY better than mine.Quote from: capt bullshot on January 07, 2018, 02:47:57 pmMuhaha! Zimmermann? EBG ? Man, I'm from 64401 !Where are you from? Send me a PM if you want!(funny to find local neighbours in an australian forum)

author: MDM3D
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 08:58:51 pm
content: This is the bench powersupply I just made over the holiday and is now my favorite. It uses 3 DPS5020s. The DPS5020s are feed 50V through 4 DPS 500 CB A dell server supplies in series that can provide 45A for a total output of just over 2kw. The only bummer I have is that I only have the ability to supply 45V max out of the 5020's because they need to have at least 55V on the input. I built this mainly for electroplating and hard coat anodizing applications where lots of power is required and ripple requirements are low. As other have stated this uses low side current measurement and all of the precautions that apply with that.I may in the future wind a transformer for 3KW with 3 1 KW outputs so that I could isolate and series the outputs. I have no ideas as to how I could go about paralleling due to the low side current measurement but would definitely appreciate 60A as hard coat anodizing requires 40 amps per surface foot. It is really easy to get to a surface foot on relatively small parts like heat sinks.I have the 1st "rail" in "filtered" with a 20000uF cap had laying around and quickly removed the small multi layered ceramic capacitors that blew up on Dave's testing video.I ordered the communications versions and have plans to put an esp in to allow remote monitoring and simultaneous settings changes.I also need to really run a 220V outlet to the bench because if I ever manage to completely load the psu then it will probably blow the 20A breaker it is attached to.The attached pictures were taken during the first time I turned it on before I moved it to the bench as it has a substantial amount of gravity to it.Some quick testing with a dmm showed a Voltage ripple under 2mV for the first rail and under 9mV for the others when lightly loaded.

author: JustSquareEnough
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 09:26:44 pm
content: Quote from: Calambres on January 07, 2018, 06:20:54 pmany details and pictures of the inside?

author: Calambres
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2018, 08:04:45 am
content: The schematic is long lost (from an electronics magazine) and the PCB is the first I ever did so it's not prettyOne of these days I'm gonna open it up and try to trace the schem. I'll take some photos and post them here.

author: jayjr1105
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2018, 11:48:51 pm
content: My one and only, homebrew. 12V5A switching supply with LTC3780 doing all the magic.

author: GeorgeOfTheJungle
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2019, 07:24:50 am
content: Up to 350W, pure chinesium inside, works wonderfully:

author: mrjoda
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2019, 10:39:29 am
content: I build this maybe 6 years ago and it is my No.1 from then. Keithley 2302 and Phillips 2811 are nice, but they are collecting dust on my desk most of the time. Outputs: 25V/1,5A regulated and +/-3V3; +/-5V; +/-12V unregulated/switchable. Linear, robust, low noise and fast enough...

author: nardev
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 12, 2019, 01:32:49 pm
content: [ Specified attachment is not available ] [ Specified attachment is not available ]Not the best in the wold but exactly what i needed : ) small and stable enough. RIDEN RD6006.Good thing to mention, they were very prompt in email support. I couldn't figure out few things at first.p.s. i did some customization, didn't like the switch and i only needed this small PSU

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 12, 2019, 03:30:07 pm
content: Quote from: nardev on December 12, 2019, 01:32:49 pmWhere's your mains earth??

author: nardev
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 12, 2019, 03:32:43 pm
content: Well, the socket and the cable don't have it anyway. This one was good enough for what i use this forBuuut.. i might add another cut on the enclosure and add in parallel another bigger socket with a fuse. Good idea

author: unknownparticle
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2019, 12:11:09 am
content: I have MANY PSU's, acquired over many years. Not my favourite, but most recent, PSU is a TTi EX4210R. This was donated to me by a friend who works for a big Tech company here in the UK. Status was unknown but I soon found a blown mains input fuse. Being in an impatient mood at the time I replaced it with one of a lower rating and applied power. Fuse was vaporised immediately! So, I checked the input resistance and it seemed ok, certainly not suspiciously low. Next I DL'd the manual from the manufacturers site and had a look at the circuit. It's a switch mode type unit. I started to measure through the components from mains in onwards and it was then I noticed the top blown off the inrush thermistor, but, it measured ok! Then I noticed the board layout didn't correspond to the manual. Some components in the manual weren't on the board! Long story short, although the unit was clearly marked as 240 VAC on the back panel, it had been fitted with a 115 VAC board!!! No wonder the fuse and the thermistor had complained! However, after fitting a new fuse and supplying the unit from my variac it worked almost perfectly! The only fault it has is no fan supply, which is a dedicated supply from a discreet component arrangement in the auxillary supply section. So, I need to locate that fault, which I think is a blown Mosfet. The only other parts needed are the thermistor and main filter caps, one of which is bulged at the top. So, despite the issue, this is a bit of a gift as they retail for about £400!! The reason for the 115 VAC board will be a mystery forever though! I'll post up some further PSU tales in the future!

author: odium
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2019, 12:40:06 am
content: home made 30V/5A linear : 3x TIP35 output stagemultimeter is GWInstek GDM-8251Acheers

author: Mr Evil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2019, 04:11:23 pm
content: I only have room for one power supply on my bench. It consists of a couple of those cheap switching regulators that have the nice multicoloured displays, and a couple of slightly dubious off-line switching power supplies, which I fitted into a nice enclosure, giving 2 x 50V@5A.The dubious power supplies generate a substantial amount of common-mode noise, as well as radiated noise, so I had to fit common-mode filters at the outputs, and cover them with aluminium plates. In the first photo you can see that one channel has had the filter and part of the shielding fitted.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2019, 04:13:28 pm
content: Congratz on your 1st post, and welcome to the forum.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2019, 04:45:41 pm
content: I have been hooked on these little supplies since my college days.Currently, I have three of them and a fourth 60V model.

author: Mr Evil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2019, 10:06:31 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on December 28, 2019, 04:13:28 pmThanks. I don't know why I didn't join this place years ago.

author: artag
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2019, 06:03:01 pm
content: I have a few of these Lambda supplies in various ranges. They're quite small, at least in panel space : 4 will fit in a 19" rack frame. Amazingly, the first two I bought were from a normal car boot sale (not an amateur radio one .. just the usual clothes and attic junk, and these lovely power supplies).I wish I could get some more coaxial knobs to fit them, though - most have that cover over the output voltage control (right hand supply) instead. Preferably to match the current limit control, I'm fussy like that.A tip if you have one of these to repair and need to replace the Lambda-marked 'special' regulator IC. It's a Motorola MC1566L.Although I also have some HP and Farnell supplies with higher ratings or better precision, I use this one more than anything : it deals with the majority of needs and, most important of all, it has no fan.I do have a couple of home-made ones as well (built while I was at high school). They still work but don't have meters though so are less convenient to use.

author: Wolfgang
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2019, 12:19:27 am
content: Hi,my first (1978) was a homebrew linear PSU 2-30V, 1.5A using a standard LM723 circuit with current limiter and analog meter. Big heatsink, no fan, selfmade PCB.Now, my default PSU is the Rigol DP832A (2x30V/3A, 1x5V5A). Same as Dave.For super sensitive stuff (ULN crystal oscillators) I use Keysight SMUs (B2962A).High voltage PSUs I made from scratch (e.g., 250V/150mA, 500V/30mA, ...)https://electronicprojectsforfun.wordpress.com/power-supplies/high-voltage-lab-power-supplies/For my other projects, I normally prefer homemade standard PSUs using either LM723 or TL431 regulators.I dont like the LM78XX and LM317 series parts too much because of more noise and many counterfeit parts.

author: jogri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2019, 07:49:59 pm
content: My most used PSUs are those two linear Oltronix B703DT. A joy to work with, but a PITA to disassemble since there is virtually no space left unused on the inside (Marco Reps did a video on his unit if you want pictures of the inside, i am not going to open mine [btw, you can tear them down rather easily, but he somehow didn't figure out how]). The PSU on the top is still waiting for its upgrade to safety banana plugs, i am kind of hesitant to open it again.They are relatively compact (roughly 20x20x20 cm) and feature three galvanically isolated channels each, so you can stack the outputs together to get a 100V 0.6A supply.

author: kallek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2020, 07:25:08 am
content: Those Oltronix power supplies look really nice.I just built dual rail power supply, but still my favourite and most used supply is very basic LM317 voltage supply with ten turn pot.For AC I built variable isolation transformer with meters. When there was still some space left, I installed also dim bulb tester with bypass swith to same enclosure.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2020, 07:51:21 am
content: kallek, really nice, especially the AC adjustable PSU.I have isolation transformer and a variac gathering dust, I guess this will be my next project.Btw, that dim bulb tester with by pass switch is on the output's side right ?Also regarding the wirings, from the AC mains, is it connected to the transformer and then the variac for the out put, or the other way around variac 1st, and then transformer for the out put ?

author: kallek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2020, 08:03:40 am
content: Thank you BravoV! I think it was cool project. I have used mine for testing new builds and also for 120V devices. And hopefully in future for powering restored vintage devices.Dim bulbs are at first from mains. If you look carefully you can see bulbs glowing from transformers idle power.Variac is before transformer, because it is rated for higher current than transformer.

author: engrguy42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2020, 02:21:32 pm
content: Okay, well it's not my favorite...nor is it my most used...And, honestly, I don't want to brag, but...>>> INSERT TIM ALLEN/HOME IMPROVEMENT GRUNTS HERE <<<<<As Nigel Tufnel so eloquently stated in Spinal Tap, this thing goes up to 11.My modification to a 460 watt ATX power supply. And yeah, that's right, it's running just under 20 amps on the 12v output.>>> MORE TIM ALLEN GRUNTS <<<<BTW, not sure if you're all aware, but the International Institute for Determination of Ultimate Coolness (IIDUC) recently issued the following statement :"The truly cool people use converted ATX power supplies".So, for all of you "I hate ATX" fanboys, there you have it...Now, to dispel a related myth:If you run a big 'ol 4 inch diameter, 200 watt, 5 ohm rheostat at just over 200 watts for 30 seconds or so, it will NOT necessarily set off your smoke detector. Yeah, it might smoke a lot, but if you have a portable fan standing near your workbench and run over and turn it on quick enough, no problem.

author: jaycee
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2020, 07:10:30 pm
content: Not the first PSU I've built, but the first one that was more than an LM317, and built into a proper boxIt's a fairly common topology.. A TL082 as sense amps, and another as error amps. Voltage reference is a TL431. Transformer is custom wound but an off the shelf 2x9V (plus another small 2x9V for the opamp supplies) would work. The metering is done using an Atmel ATMega324, which also controls switching the load on and off via an illuminated pushbuttonI made a few little mistakes, the metering is not very accurate at the low range because the ADC in the ATMega is not very accurate near ground. I should have added some bias to the sense amps so that the voltages they output doesn't go near ground - this doesnt bother the opamps because they have a -ve railedit: Oh yeah, the important bits. It's 0-18V at 0-1A, and 90% of the components are recycled parts - including the ATMega324!

author: nuno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2020, 09:10:51 am
content: Nice build.Quote from: jaycee on May 13, 2020, 07:10:30 pmCan you elaborate?

author: jaycee
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2020, 06:23:13 pm
content: Quote from: nuno on May 15, 2020, 09:10:51 amThe ADC in the ATMega, like a lot of ADCs, are not very accurate at the extreme ends of their range. Add in compensation for offset and it becomes an issue. The ammeter on my psu cannot read any lower than 20mA for example, yet it can current limit lower than that so the problem is not in the sense amp. I could have avoided the issue by adding an offset to the sense amps so that they do not go near ground, which would have allowed enough range to both cancel the offset and avoid the nonlinearity.I attempted to hack it a bit by adding resistors to adjust the range to the front panel display, its not perfect but workable.I might try a further hack to add the offset I mention. A TL431 should be enough to do the job. At any rate, the power supply works well and it's better than the previous lashups of LM317's etcI'd "Open source" it, but I really dont want some unscrupulous Chinese ebay sellers turning it into a kit.

author: nuno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2020, 10:57:11 pm
content: Are you using a current measuring resistor? If so, what value and what amplification (if != 1) before feeding the AVR's ADC?

author: jaycee
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2020, 11:33:31 pm
content: Quote from: nuno on May 15, 2020, 10:57:11 pmYes, 0.1 ohms. There is a sense amp and the output feeds both the ADC and the current control error amp. The sense amp is not the problem.Full schematic here:http://www.dark-matter.me.uk/files/electronics/psu-18v1a/main_sch.pdfedit: Actually thats just the main board. The display board is athttp://www.dark-matter.me.uk/files/electronics/psu-18v1a/front_sch.pdfedit 2: My plan is to disconnect AGND from the star ground, and add some offset voltage there. The sense and error amps get shifted away from 0v, but they dont care about that.. the only thing that will see the difference is the ADC which is referenced to DGND

author: nuno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 09:56:34 am
content: I have used an AVR to read small values of voltage and I didn't see any problem with it (reading a PT100, only amplification was ATtiny26's internal differential 20x gain amplifier and its internal ~2.7V Vref*).You are using different Vrefs for the pure analog part and for the display/control part, maybe your problem comes from that, what happens if they differ by, say, 40 or 50mV(or maybe not).*The schematic is here, it's commented in Portuguese but I think it won't be a big problem, there's nothing fancy:https://troniquices.files.wordpress.com/2008/07/coscov.png

author: Pawelr98
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2020, 02:37:55 am
content: This is mine.0-30V 0-6AUses uA723 with extra electronics.Negative 2.5V rail (431 stabilized), allows to go down to 0Vextra overcurrent protection on driver stageseparate 35V supply for the chip that ensures dropout of no more than the Vcesat of power transistors14V/28V transformer tap automatic switching, 300VA toroid transformerThe output stage is 2xTungsram 2N3055 on an outside radiator.Case is metal.On the right there's a tube tester.Sometimes it also works as a low-current high-ish voltage PSU as it has a primitive 0-100V adjustable voltage source.Just a 2N60 beeing source follower, no proper regulation.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2020, 08:13:12 pm
content: Quote from: jaycee on May 13, 2020, 07:10:30 pmIt looks nice. It could be improved quite a bit though, if you want to release the project at some point.Fuse is in kind of a bad location, hard to shove your fingers in a corner to pull the fuse up. Maybe should be on bottom left corner under that to-220 with heatsink.Maybe add connectors for those soldered wires on the left side of pcb.Plenty of room to lay the four diodes properly .... maybe consider also dual footprint , for regular bridge rectifier (the ones very common used in atx power supplies , gbj , gbu etc, they can be screwed to heatsinks)Could maybe rotate the to-220 chips and align with that to-220 with heatsink and maybe even with the bridge rectifier, so that a wide heatsink could sink all those chips. Also give them rigidity and whatever. May have to add insulators.I'd rotate most through hole resistors 90 degrees , have most traces on top vertical and the ones on bottom horizontal , with ground fills or whatever for increased trace thickness.The DISPLAY connector could probably be on the right corner/edge of the board instead of center, as the ribbon cable could block air flow going through case.As for parts minimization, you could maybe add footprints for replacing those 47k resistors with 2 x 100k in parallel to get 50k resistors - close enough to 100k.Not a fan of to-92 transistors, i'd rather make a board surface mount than use those.

author: 25 CPS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2020, 04:06:25 pm
content: My most frequently used bench power supply is a Canadian Research Institute TRP 20/4. As the model number implies, it’s a 20 V, 4 A capable supply with coarse and fine adjustments and two ranges. The range switch is a gotcha though with a centre off position and the two ranges being 0-10 V and then 10-20 V. It isn’t possible to ease the voltage up across the whole 0-20 V range without having a really awkward changeover in the middle.Unfortunately, as is the case with a lot of the long gone Canadian test equipment manufacturers, there’s hardly any information or documentation online and I don’t have manuals or diagrams for this machine.

author: old-jo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2020, 04:49:07 pm
content: This is my favorite and most used benchtop PSU:I made it after watching Build your own Variable Lab Bench Power Supply video by GreatScott!I used the same LTC3780 module as the video. As input for the LTC3780 module, I used an old laptop charger.Good enough for a hobbyist.

author: AJ3G
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2020, 04:20:07 am
content: Just completed this supply using the RIDEN 6018W. Need to finish up the final wiring around the binding posts, and installation of a fan controller, and I should be ready for prime time.Rich

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2020, 04:29:44 am
content: Wow ... so many binding posts, any plan to label them ?

author: AJ3G
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2020, 04:47:19 am
content: Yes there are a lot of binding posts. The two mounted vertically will are attached to the rear panel terminations. I have cases where I simply set a voltage to for an RF Amplifier, and do not want cables running out of the front, but instead from the back of the supplyThe binding posts below each controller are run in parallel. Again the idea is I can bring the voltage out of the RIDEN controller and have it available for multiple devices without over-stacking 4mm Banana plugs. Those are Superior Electric 5-Way Binding Posts, which were given to me in a box of ten by a mentor who got me interested in RF Filter design. He passed away a short while back, so I am glad I could put them to good use. I had no idea how expensive binding post were, and I think those posts exceed the cost of the controllers!Yes there is a plan to label them. Debating on placards or Adhesive labels. The idea behind their location is pretty obvious, but I agree, some sort of labeling is in order.Rich

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2020, 05:01:30 am
content: Imo, the purpose of the labels are not for you, but for other people.

author: AJ3G
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2020, 05:12:10 am
content: LOL - Yes I thought that was were you were heading, and Yes eventually someone besides me may end up using it, or owning it (hopefully no time soon).Tomorrow I plan to make some short length 4mm Banana patch cables. They will attach permanently to the controllers to the binding posts. The quality of the posts on the controller do not appear to be the best, which is another reason I opted to bring the output down to the more robust 5 Way Binding Posts.So far I have tested everything in a quasi put together state, but not yet as one large assembly. Taming the fan noise issue has been a little more work than I expected, but I think that should be taken care of tomorrow. I did have a chance to play with the WI-FI interface to the controllers, and was rather impressed with the GUI provided.Once I wrap up the above I would love to look into making one a Master controller, and have the other controller as a slave. Getting through that may take longer than the build did.Rich

author: lordium
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2020, 06:09:03 am
content: Have a few different supplies, but I really like my HP6634B the most for some reason. Not my smallest/most quiet/powerful or technically best, but still my most used one. Made a relay board for it so it can switch polarity, and added jacks to the front for easier access.(took a closer look at the picture, and the relay board is incorrect, it does have one, but not in this picture. Goes to the right of the circled area)

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2022, 10:38:21 am
content: Welcome back power supply friends!I've been getting a bunch of use out of my HP6632B with front terminals.Still tweaking the Keithley 2308. Internal display is still acting up. Having the current monitor output is pretty great.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 01:19:55 am
content: Happy power supply new year.. How many good little engineers had Santa bring them a new PSU this Christmas?

author: jaycee
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 11:11:01 am
content: Quote from: mariush on July 09, 2020, 08:13:12 pmIf i was doing it again, it'd probably be 90% surface mount. I used what I had and it was the first time I'd had a PCB manufactured too.I dont really see much point in making it a project because you have to wind your own transformer. That in itself would just get lots of awkward questions that I don't really want to answer