Help, what is this chip? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2012, 10:31:36 pm
content: I have a 2010 13" macbook pro logic board with a bad surface mount chip.The numbers on it are 7149 it is about a 1/4 wide chip square hasAJ501CIt is right by the lvds 30 pin connector. I am trying to find where I can by one and what the real name of it is. It appears to control the voltage to the led screenAny help is greatly appreciated.I have attached two photos of itThanksGilbert

author: chrome
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2012, 11:12:25 pm
content: Why did you take a sideways picture of a screen?Command-Shift-3, use it

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2012, 11:20:18 pm
content: the logo is clearly siliconix ( S with embedded I on middle line )judging from the heat tab and the 4 pins on the other side my gues is a power fet or a linear regulator chip.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2012, 11:22:20 pm
content: Googling '7149 siliconix' gives me a SI7149 power P-mos. pulling the datasheet looks like a match. the package is correct.tadaaa :http://www.vishay.com/docs/68934/si7149dp.pdf

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2012, 11:36:54 am
content: It always surprises me when others say a part is "bad" when they don't even know what it is, and there's no obvious physical damage.If it's the A1278 model there are only 2 SI7149 in the main power circuit for switching between battery/DCIN power.

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2012, 06:53:42 pm
content: amyk:I am brand new to all this stuff hence why I said "Bad". The chip actually has 2 missing fillets, the board got some minor liquid damage on it and currently it is creating the "curtain effect" on the screen. This is the only physical damage I see at this point. So i was not sure if I should just replace this chip or solder it again. Thanks to all for the info.Gilbert

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 16, 2012, 07:58:00 pm
content: Greetings Gilbert (gtyrrell1):--Welcome to the the forum. This is a great forum with lots of friendly helpful folks, and only a couple of stinkers. For your elucidation, you will find a couple of Sticky Threads in the General Chat section of the forum; 1) What's This Please, and 2) New Members Introduce Yourself.--As you can see, one of our resident experts, free-electron, was able to read your screen photograph, and find the exact information you needed. Though he might have had to rotate the picture, which is not a difficult chore for an expert. Still I would recommend that, next time, you take a picture of the chip directly, if you can.--If you do not yet have your own digital camera, I highly recommend you get one, with the highest resolution you can afford. You have not added your country of residence to your profile, so it is difficult to recommend sources to you. I have been buying high quality refurbished Digital Cameras from Geeks.com here in the USA, and have been well satisfied with the price and the performance. A camera is a must in any kind of complicated repair, automotive, electric or whatever. You can always figure out what you had before you started, and you can study the pictures in comfort and zoom in. Also, sometimes you can get the camera into places where you head will not fit, or does not want to go.--With regard to the seeming hostile, badly punctuated, advice in the Imperative Voice, give it no mind, perhaps some of the post was lost and it was not as rude as is sounds. Someone here will be always be willing to help you, even with upside down pictures. Just thank you lucky stars you do not have to work for someone who talks to people in that fashion."All I wants of you, Cap'n Simmons, is plain seevility, and that of the commonest goddamndest kind!"Zeph W. PeaseBest RegardsClear Ether

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 01:23:19 am
content: Updated profile, thanks.I am from US, any suggestions on where to get the chip?

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 03:10:06 am
content: Thank you so much! The chip actually only has two of the four pins soldered. When the liquid hit it, I guess it burned two off. The pads still look fine. Do you think it would be worth just resoldering what is there or just replacing it? Again, I am a rookie so forgive the simple questions.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 03:25:49 am
content: Quote from: gtyrrell1 on June 17, 2012, 03:10:06 amLiquid would not randomly burn off two pins. So long as pins 1 and 4 are soldered, I doubt there's an issue with that chip.

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 03:45:03 am
content: Well, actually pin 3 and 4 are connected(according to the data sheet layout) and there is definitely a problem with power to the display. It lights up but gives a "Curtain Effect" at the bottom of the screen. So that's why I am looking at resolder or replacing the chip.Can use all the advise I can get.http://www.vishay.com/docs/68934/si7149dp.pdf

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 03:52:19 am
content: 3 and 4 is also fine.Please describe this 'curtain effect'.

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 04:14:16 am
content: How about a picture!

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 04:19:41 am
content: Half the LEDs aren't lit. That could, I suppose, be down to a missing connection at some package, but I don't see why they'd have them connected separately. I also don't see why the LEDs would require their own battery/line switch, which is what those FETs are used for.I think, perhaps, you should track back the circuit from those LEDs and find an actual fault, instead of going 'hey, let's replace this chip because... well, because!'.

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 04:38:20 am
content: I will try, but I am not real experienced in tracing. Have access to the block diagrams, but not much more.

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 05:34:27 am
content: Dear Gilbert:--Once again I concur with Monkeh. This being an Apple product, you will probably never be able to obtain a schematic. So as Dave Jones says "take it apaaht". There should be a dual power supply to the LED strings. Having a dual supply allows them to lower the voltage, as well as providing redundancy, albeit with a loss of quality. You may be able to try switching plugs to see if which string lights up switches as well. Trace the wires and tracks from the LED strings back to the dual power supply, take some pictures and post them. Should be a relatively simple fix. Since the LED PS wires bend every time the Laptop is opened or shut, it could even be as simple as a broken wire or a loose connector. Repeat, "take it apaaht", and take pictures as you go."I'll have the Alfalfa sandwich, and the smashed yeast"Woody Allen 1935 -Best RegardsClear Ether

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 05:55:47 am
content: Actually you can find a schematic, if it is the model I think you have, look for the "MLB_LDO K6"This is possible for many other electronics too, you just have to do a bit of digging around on the Internet.One thing I'd like to make perfectly clear: That MOSFET you identified is NOT the culprit of this problem. If it was defective, the entire machine would either run on adapter only or battery only, but not both.The backlight has 6 series strings with an LP8545 as the driver. I don't know the pin configuration of the connector but if it has 2 sides then dirt on one side can cause this alternating pattern effect. Clean it.Edit: found a picture of where the components are. The '7149 is in the lower right and isn't part of this circuit.

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 06:16:32 am
content: Dear Amyk:--I tried searching as you suggested. I found numerous sites advertising the schematic for 10 to 14 dollars, but all illustrations were of block diagrams. They wouldn't advertise a schematic and then provide a block diagram, would they? This is a common scam with TV manuals, they advertise a schematic but all you get is mechanicals and block diagrams.--If anyone knows where to get a guaranteed electronic schematic for this unit pleas post a link."Measure twice. Cut once"Norm Abram 1950 -Best RegardsClear Ether

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 06:05:52 pm
content: Found the schematic and attached a picture of the area with resistors and 24pin IC. Can't seem to get my digital microscope to take pictures right now so I am taking screen shots. I am guessing I need to test the resistors, however they are so small, I am not sure how to do that any suggestions? This is where the concentration of liquid was. Nothing went as far as the fuse. It appears that two of the pads coming off the 300k resistor are scorched leading to the IC, do not know if that matters.Happy fathers day to all!I hope you all know how much I appreciate your wisdom and insight!Amy, I agree on the other chip now that I understand the way it works from the diagram.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 06:24:29 pm
content: Looks more like the liquid seeped under the IC and has corroded some of the tracks, and most likely the right hand side of the IC has had the connections eaten away. You will probably have to desolder the IC and clean under it. Difficult without the correct tools, hot air solder station and vacuum pickup tool.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 06:26:50 pm
content: Quote from: gtyrrell1 on June 17, 2012, 06:05:52 pm1) SMD probe, very common ( Search DX for SMD probe, aliexpress also has it cheap or if you want quality UNI-T has it as UT-L06 )2) Just use your probes, it's already on your board3) Some weird corrosive liquid got in ... man, what happened in there ( It's not that i like crApple devices ... i hate them, you asked for some help i gave you some advice )

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 07:17:57 pm
content: 1) SMD probe, very common ( Search DX for SMD probe, aliexpress also has it cheap or if you want quality UNI-T has it as UT-L06 )2) Just use your probes, it's already on your board3) Some weird corrosive liquid got in ... man, what happened in there ( It's not that i like crApple devices ... i hate them, you asked for some help i gave you some advice )What is "DX" and "UNI-T"

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 07:24:31 pm
content: DXUNI-TBoth were the top Google hits for me, but I will resist the temptation of posting lmgtfy links.

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 07:29:32 pm
content: Dear Gilbert:--Now we are getting somewhere. Please see the below link for the data sheet for the TI LP8545 Backlight Driver:http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lp8545.pdf--The block diagram on the data sheet can be misleading, as that is not the way the pins are actually laid out. For the actual pin outs, please see the attached picture from the data sheet. It seems possible to me that Amyk may indeed be correct and that the problem is dirt. If pins 16, 17, and 18 were being shorted to pin 15 by the conductive remains of a liquid it might produce the symptoms you see. I would try flushing with high purity isopropyl and trying to blow it out from under the chip using canned air. You could also use any good high volatility zero residue electronic parts cleaner.--If you need to remove the SMD chip, I would recommend that you study some of the YouTube videos, showing how. They show you how to shield everything but the chip itself with foil. Also, you might want to consider the use of Chip Quick. You can find videos of Chip Quick use on YouTube also. You will need tweezers (preferably vacuum) that can pick the chip straight up, to avoid creating more problems with liquid solder. You will also need to learn how to clean the pads, and how to re-solder the chip in place. Dave Jones has some videos showing this, and YouTube does as well.--And finally, would you please buy, beg, borrow, or steal a decent digital camera capable of taking a decent macro picture. Your pictures are, how do you say, for the birds."I wear suspenders and a belt. I am a security man all the way"Justin Wilson (The Cajun Cook) 1914 - 2001Best RegardsClear Ether

author: chrome
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 07:58:31 pm
content: How are you still taking pictures of your screen?PROTIP: YOU CAN TAKE SCREENSHOTS AND SAVE THEM TO YOUR DESKTOP AND THEN UPLOAD THOSE.Command-Shift-3, use it.

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 09:48:51 pm
content: Cleaned and blew it out, no change. I am guessing time to remove the IC chip?

author: RRobot
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 10:17:31 pm
content: Have you tried plugging in a external monitor and seeing if you get the same artifact? My two cents, it looks like the screen itself is damaged.Also was this liquid water or something else?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 10:39:52 pm
content: Quote from: RRobot on June 17, 2012, 10:17:31 pmIt's quite clearly a backlight problem, nothing to do with the display itself.

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 17, 2012, 11:30:15 pm
content: Dear Gilbert:--Once again I must concur with Monkeh. You are on the correct track. In all likelihood it is the power to the LEDs and not a defective display screen. I think you should try to confirm that you have voltage present between each of supply pins 12, 13, 14 ,16,17, 18 and ground pin 15. If any of these 6 voltages are not present, then you probably have a bad chip. Just a thought."There are two possible outcomes: If the result confirms the hypothesis, then you've made a measurement. If the result is contrary to the hypothesis, then you've made a discovery."Enrico Fermi 1901 1954Best RegardsClear Ether

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2012, 12:19:46 am
content: Thank you, so just connect my meter from each pin to ground individually and check for voltage. So am I looking for a specific amount of voltage or just any to confirm the chip is dead?By the way, you guys have been awesome! Thanks again.

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 18, 2012, 12:36:41 am
content: Dear Gilbert:--The voltages should probably all be the same. If you indeed have a schematic and not just a block diagram, then the voltage readings may be given. Just see what you get. And report back."Before I came here I was confused about this subject. Having listened to your lecture I am still confused. But on a higher level."Enrico Fermi 1901 1954Best RegardsClear Ether

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2012, 07:28:38 am
content: See the LP8545 datasheet SgtRock posted on the previous page, and the diagram below for where to test. The area you photographed is not problematic either; any fault there would meannoneof the lights coming on.The driver sinks current, so the LEDs are connected in common anode configuration. Measure the voltage between the common anode and the 6 individual strings. They should all be the same. If any of them have no voltage, then measure the voltage between it and ground. At this step if there is no voltage then the problem is not here. If there is, then the driver IC's internal transistor may be defective. If you have a current-limited power supply you can test the backlight strings separately --- disconnect the panel connector and apply + to the anode and - to one of the strings' cathode, start at 0 and gradually turn up the current but don't go beyond ~30mA; good LEDs should start illuminating well below that.

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2012, 05:12:42 pm
content: AmyI tested points 1-6 (very difficult on such a small item) they all read .2m on my multimeter. Should I proceed to testing the lcd panel as you suggested?

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 18, 2012, 06:32:07 pm
content: Dear Gilbert:--So, 0.2m is essentially a reading of zero, which does not compute because, some LEDs are lighting. I believe that Amyk has inadvertently labeled the wrong pins, and has made a 180 degree error.--Please carefully observe the attached picture of the chip pin out diagram below, which is from the Data Sheet, the link to which is:http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lp8545.pdfPlease notice the fiducial location dot (package mark) in the lower left of the top side (I.E. Upper Face) of the chip. Now, carefully inspect the "Top View" of the chip. You will see that pin 12/OUT1 is at the bottom of the left edge of the chip, and the bottom edge row of pins are labeled from left to right 13/OUT2, 14/OUT3 15/GND_L, 16/OUT4, 17/OUT5, and 18/OUT6. I think you should try to confirm that you have voltage present between each of supply pins 12, 13, 14 ,16, 17, 18, and ground pin 15. All we are trying to do here at the moment is to get an idea if the chip is operating correctly, before removing. There still may be some stubborn dirt underneath the chip, which is preventing proper operation, so nothing is certain."He didn't know where he was going. But he knew where he was wasn't it."Lord Buckley 1906 1960Best RegardsClear Ether

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2012, 10:16:15 pm
content: Took quite a while, but here is what I got. Setting on meter 2000m.pin 12 read 3pin 13 read 3pin 14 read 4pin 16 read 0pin 17 read 4pin 18 read 2The tips of my meter are just small enough to get on these things, so I checked multiple times to verify readingsPin 16 is definitely 0

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2012, 10:19:52 pm
content: So does this mean that the chip is shorted at that point?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2012, 11:47:00 pm
content: You were asked to measure voltage, not resistance.

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2012, 12:21:23 am
content: Ok, how about this:pin 12 read 11.27pin 13 read 11.92pin 14 readpin 16 readpin 17 readpin 18 read 10.70The other three I could not get my leads on so I am going to try and create some small ones.Basically went from Ground pin 15 to each of the others is that was correct?

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 19, 2012, 12:35:23 am
content: Dear Monkeh (and Gilbert):--Thanks for jumping back in Monkeh, Gilbert was confusing me with his answer. Gilbert what we want you to give us are readings like, for example. 14.71 Volts at Pin 12/OUT1, or 20.3 Volts at Pin 18/OUT6, to the best precision you can obtain. When you state measurements, always include what is being measured, Volts, Amps, Ohms, it saves confusion.--Please see below a much more complete, and downloadable Data Sheet:http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lp8545.pdf--I have checked all the common sources, and the chip is only available in amounts of hundreds with several month lead times. So obtaining a replacement at this time is problematic.The good news is that the chip has good on board protection, and so it is probably OK, and will operate when the fault is cleared. You are still likely to need a Digital Camera with decent resolution before this is all over.--Monkeh, or anyone, I would appreciate it if you had a look at the Data Sheet to see if I am reading it correctly.--Gilbert, measure the voltages a precisely as you can and get back to us. Also, you did not answer my question about whether or not you have a true schematic and not just a block diagram. If you did obtain a schematic, please post a scan or picture of the chip and the surrounding area, from the schematic, so we can look at it.P.S. Gilbert, I see that you posted while I was typing this post, indeed, that is what we want. Now we are definitely getting somewhere. All the voltages should read a nominal 11 Volts plus/minus."Does not squirrel crack nuts on bough of oak tree."Lao Fu 1410 1620Best RegardsClear Ether

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2012, 12:43:08 am
content: I have attached the schematic. Sorry, I assumed voltage. Any suggestions on how to make smaller leads? I can get on the ground pin and the pins left and right of it.

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2012, 12:48:52 am
content: Here is a PDF of the page instead. Might be clearer when enlarged.

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 19, 2012, 01:15:30 am
content: Dear Gilbert:--Very good with the schematic and the voltage readings. You are definitely getting with the program. I would recommend that you use a straight pin, or better yet a sewing needle as a probe. You could connect with alligator clips, or even just grip the needle tightly to your Meter probe.--Amyk was indeed right, there is a schematic available. It is not at much help as I hoped, but it may yet prove useful. Thank for posting. I put it in my library."Measure twice. Cut once"Norm Abram 1950 -Best RegardsClear Ether

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2012, 08:46:21 am
content: I think this is the clearest my instructions can be. Refer to the picture. I've highlighted the traces so you can see which one goes to which pin on the connector.5 of the 6 red dots look like exposed test points and should be possible to probe with a needle. The 6th one is a via but should be part of the same net. Be careful not to damage that one.1. Put the + probe of your multimeter (on VOLTAGE setting) on the common anode (on either pin of the connector is fine, it doesn't matter because those two are connected together.) Put the - on each of the test points mentioned above and record the voltages.2. Put the - probe of your multimeter (again, voltage) on the ground pin and measure the voltage from each of the test points using the + probe.3. Finally, keep the - probe on the ground pin and measure the voltage on the common anode with the + probe.Post your results.

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2012, 05:01:04 pm
content: 1) yielded 0 volts on all pins2)pin 12 = 15.35pin 13 = 15.72pin 14 = 12.12pin 16 = 1.60 (verified multiple times, would fluctuate up and down .03)pin 17 = 29.3pin 18 = 19.93) yielded same as 2)

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 20, 2012, 03:59:45 am
content: Dear Gilbert:-- Some random thoughts. Before trying any of the below solutions, be sure to verify the continuity and cabling from the chip to the LEDs (to the extent possible). I do not have a picture of the cabling so I do not know if it is possible to swap LED cables around and see if the problem moves. You could disconnect the cable(s) running to the LEDs and check the resistance of each run in both directions, looking for shorts, opens, or marked anomalies. If that does not point to anything then read on.--Some decent high resolution pictures of both sides of the board, and a close up of the LED Driver Chip, and surrounding area might be helpful. Deposits left over from the spill still seem to me to be the likely culprit. I often use CRC Lectra-Motive Electronic Parts Cleaner to clean difficult spill and dirt problems, It is quite cheap, and it comes with a straw so you can really get it into places, it also evaporates very quickly, but be sure to use it outside. Try to keep a pool of it under and around the chip for a few minutes at at time, followed by compressed air, and then repeat the whole procedure several times. Then measure the voltages again and see if anything has changed, and report back.--I am trying to come up with every idea possible short of removing the chip. If you try cleaning with a highly volatile solution some more and that does not work, there is one more thing you might try.--Let us assume that the liquid spilled was a sugary drink, and that you now have the equivalent of molasses, including ionic compounds and some water bound in, stuck underneath the chip, and between the pins and pads. Acetone, alcohol, tolulol, etc. may not be able to budge such a gummy deposit, but there is something that just possibly may, hot soapy water. One idea is to take the bare logic board and run it through the dishwasher, followed by the judicious use of compressed air ,a heat gun and or even and oven and some waiting time, to make darn sure it is dry.--If the above does not work, unless anyone else can think of anything else, I guess it is time for you to carefully remove the chip, without damaging it because, you cannot get another one, although, you probably can buy another logic board. Clean the entire area, and verify the presence and continuity of all tracks, before resoldering the chip. Study up on the use of hot air, aluminum foil, ChipQuick, tweezers, SMD soldering, etc."I'm all in favor of the democratic principle that one idiot is as good as one genius, but I draw the line when someone takes the next step and concludes that two idiots are better than one genius."Leo Szilard 1898 - 1964Best RegardsClear Ether

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2012, 07:56:36 am
content: Quote from: gtyrrell1 on June 19, 2012, 05:01:04 pmYour first readings are suspect as it implies no current through all the LED strings or the LEDs have absolutely no forward voltage (impossible). As you have shown that some of them do work, I find this hard to believe. In case I wasn't clear enough, all these readings are to be done with the display plugged in and powered on.The second set is slightly more useful, although the numbers are still a bit odd. 16, 17, and 18 are suspicious and 14 is a bit on the low side. Conductive residuecouldcause this bu.The final reading can't be "same as 2)" because it should be a single number.Please try again. The attached diagram shows the measurements as they are on the schematic.

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2012, 08:18:18 am
content: This thread makes me laugh.SgtRock and amyk you guys are being extremely helpful, it's good to see.But it's also clear that the OP is not qualified to repair this macbook pro.It reminds me of STTNG: Samaritan Snareperhaps with the help of good samaritans on the board he can make it go again.

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 20, 2012, 08:48:42 am
content: Dear Codyboy2k:--You are very kind, Sir. For that matter, I am right at or slightly above my level of competence, but I am learning things, as we go, just as Gilbert is. We might fix it and we might break it, but we will "Get er done." It is an expensive piece, even, used, on eBay, and if Gilbert does not fix it himself, it is just a few dollars worth of junk. Fixing them over the internet is not really all that different from fixing them in person, except I cannot see the piece. A long time ago when I was in the Boy Scouts we used to do an experiment where one scout would have to instruct another scout in how to tie his shoelace. The ambiguities of language, and the difficulties of giving comprehensible instructions soon became apparent. There is a lot of that sort of thing going on here. But on we strive.“You can't help respecting anybody who can spell TUESDAY, even if he doesn't spell it right; but spelling isn't everything. There are days when spelling Tuesday simply doesn't count.”Winnie the PoohBest RegardsClear Ether

author: gtyrrell1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2012, 11:21:09 pm
content: Codeboy: Yes, I am in way over my head. I did explain that earlier in the post. I am actually a general contractor (retired now). If you need me to build your home I can help.I shut down my business to go into full time ministry. Starting a church In Tampa, Fl and we are also starting a children's home for orphans in the Bahama's. I am hoping to learn some repair skills to teach the children a way of making a living. Since computers, cell phones, tablets, etc. are going to be around for a while I figure it is worth investing in. I learn best by doing instead of just reading so here I am.Amy and SGT have been extremely patient with me and I am grateful. If at any time they do not want to put up with a novice, I am ok with it and they are free to tell me so.Thanks,Gilbert

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2012, 07:48:56 am
content: I think remote troubleshooting is one way to practice your skills at both electronics and communicationIf you don't want to continue that's fine too, but it's more fun to achieve success.

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 21, 2012, 08:55:31 am
content: Dear Gilbert:--I agree with Amyk, do not give up, you are almost there." 'Tis a lesson you should heed:Try, try, try again.If at first you don't succeed,Try, try, try again. "William Edward Hickson 1803 - 1870Best RegardsClear Ether