WTT (US): 220-240VAC Hakko FR-802 Hot Air Rework Station for 120VAC Equivalent - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nsd_c
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2020, 02:08:08 am
content: Hi all,I have a Hakko FR-802 that's wired for 230-240VAC, 50/60 Hz. I used to be able to use this in the US as I had a convenient 240VAC outlet that was accessible, but I since moved and now I don't have anywhere convenient to plug this into. So, I am looking to trade this for the 120VAC model. (I'll probably have to trade with another user outside the US...) I'd prefer if I keep the tips that I have (and vice-versa), unless that would be a trade deal-breaker.The unit works just fine; I did not put very many hours on it when I was using it.See below for photos.If there are any doubts to its function, I could (on request) take it to my work and run it off 240 there and take a video to show that it works.Thanks!

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 20, 2020, 09:17:44 am
content: Wonderful piece of Equipment, I have the 220VAC hier in Europe. It is designed to be used in production, so if you want to change the temperature it is not so immediate.Temped to hack it and place a pot regulation in the front panel for the temperature.

author: nsd_c
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2020, 03:37:05 am
content: Quote from: Zucca on January 20, 2020, 09:17:44 amI've had my FR-802 apart before as I was curious what was inside. Based on my recollection, it would seem that there is some kind of control loop running on a small microcontroller, so if you wanted to hack your '802 to add a pot, I would think that you would have alter the firmware on the uC to accommodate this. (And it probably goes without saying that the fuse bits might be set such that (a) you might not be able to pull the old code off to use as a base, and (b) you'd probably have to replace the uC chip...)

author: DiazChris
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 22, 2020, 04:14:20 am
content: I dont have much money how low can you go

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 22, 2020, 07:01:29 am
content: Quote from: nsd_c on January 22, 2020, 03:37:05 amProbably redesign a new board is quicker (who wants a plastic key to change the temperature?), and sell the old one in Ebay.Moreover I would like to add an extermal thermocouple sensor, to place close to the compoment I have to rework.This would be very helpful when I use imbarassing nozzles like this one:

author: testpoint1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2020, 02:09:52 pm
content: I think you can buy a 110 t0 220V transformer, I have a big one, 3000W siemens, very heavy.

author: nsd_c
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2020, 04:35:24 am
content: Quote from: DiazChris on January 22, 2020, 04:14:20 amSorry, I'm not interested in selling this; I want to trade for another unit but the 110VAC variant. If I decide to sell, I will probably do so through eBay.Quote from: testpoint1 on January 22, 2020, 02:09:52 pmI've considered this in the past, but I've heard enough "horror stories" that have seemingly resulted from poor construction in some of these step-down transformers that I'd prefer not to go this route. (Space is also an issue for me; I'd prefer not to have another thing taking up space that I wouldn't otherwise need.)EDIT: I just re-read what you wrote more carefully. For a nice brand name one (like your 3kW Siemens), poor quality construction would not be a concern. Where did you find this transformer...?Quote from: Zucca on January 22, 2020, 07:01:29 amThat sounds like a good amount of work! Certainly possible if you were so motivated, just more effort than I personally would want to put into it. Designing the PCB itself seems like it would be pretty easy; the hard part (IMO) would be the control law. IIRC when operating the station you could see about a 1 Hz period of oscillation of the heating element (the intensity of light emanating from the heating element would oscillate pretty obviously).Perhaps a better compromise (in terms of usability) for user lock-out would have been to use a knob with a rotary encoder for temperature control that only has effect if the plastic key is installed.An external thermocouple is an interesting idea. I suppose if you wanted to get really fancy you could couple your hot air station with an external thermal camera as well?(Seek cameras are cheap enough these days.)

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 24, 2020, 09:10:28 am
content: Quote from: nsd_c on January 24, 2020, 04:35:24 aman IR camera will be released in the version 2.0 :-)