First attempt at soldering. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: chris36202
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 02:31:12 am
content: Hi all, I know I was away for a "Long" while and I just wanted to actually post something.Well, I've never soldered at all. So this is my first attempt at it

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 02:38:37 am
content: Far too much solder - the curve of the joint surface between the lead and the board should be concave, not convex.The joint on the right may be defective ('dry joint') - its surface is lumpy and the solder hasn't fully wetted the pad.

author: chris36202
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 02:41:44 am
content: I forgot to mention that the PCB is an vellerman kithttp://www.vellemanusa.com/products/view/?country=us&lang=enu&id=351280So, It's pretty low quality by itself if you ask me

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 02:43:09 am
content: Notice the RH pad is not fully covered with solder, you need a little more time on it or a bit more heat.Also try to get out of bending the component leads so much as it makes it a real bitch to remove a component if need be. Just the smallest of bends is enough while you invert the PCB for soldering.If you have a bench mat or some thin tough foam flip the PCB onto this and populate the PCB with the thinnest components first, passives only preferably at first then bit by bit populate with taller components. This method in some way negates the need to put more than minor bends on component leads.

author: Muttley Snickers
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 03:04:37 am
content: Quote from: chris36202 on November 13, 2016, 02:41:44 amStill that's no reason to make a dogs breakfast out of it, after you finish soldering in the components and cutting the legs off don't forget to clean up the excess flux residue with a cotton swab or ear bud and some isopropyl alcohol (IPA).Perhaps you should practice your technique a bit more with a small sheet of prototype or vero-board and some sacrificial components before taking on a kit, if you attempt to re-solder a component too many times or apply too much heat then you could start damaging or lifting tracks which will then be much harder to repair, it may also take the enjoyment out of the project.

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 03:41:19 am
content: Agree with above. I have never yet seen an example where the quality of a hand soldered joint is anything but a function of the person making it. Rubbishy kits might have several problems, but quality of the soldering is not one that is inherent with the kit.This might sound a little harsh - but the message here is that you need to accept that the fault lies in your technique, otherwise you can get into the attitude of blaming the wrong things - and you'll never get better.Now please don't feel that we are jumping on your head to make us feel good. We all want you to improve - and if you come back later showing us some 0201 SMD beautifully soldered using a nail and a blowtorch, we will be extremely happy for you.We also do realise that this is a first effort - and the fact you have presented what you have shown us gives us some confidence that you have a basic understanding. We do want to encourage you to do better, but sometimes engineering brains can be a little too direct - so bear that in mind in reading responses.

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 04:16:26 am
content: This should be of help

author: Ampera
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 04:20:39 am
content: The moral of the day is, never show an electronics engineer your hand soldering job, they will never like it.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 04:46:43 am
content: Quote from: TwoOfFive on November 13, 2016, 04:20:39 amThat, I don't care about.What I DO care about is constructive guidance on how to do better.Quote from: chris36202 on November 13, 2016, 02:41:44 amIt's damn fine if you need it and you'll learn a lot from your project, do keep us up to date with progress.

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 05:01:09 am
content: Gotta go big font for this one. That board appears to be gold plated. Solder takes longer to flow on gold plated pads.What you have there is a very typical result. RA flux lead solder does much better on gold, but needs to be properly cleaned afterwards. The joint will actually be fine the way you have it, but if you are using lead free solder it will just be that much harder to make a good looking joint. HASL (Hot air solder leveled) boards or plain old tin plate will solder more easily. Sometimes on gold plated boards in production we have problem areas on I will solder the pads, then remove the solder before assembly. I have also had luck with organic core, or water clean lead solder. Don't forget to clean that stuff off or it will cause problems later on.Apart from that not bad for a first attempt on a gold plated board.

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 05:13:33 am
content: Not satisfied with just my experience and looking for a reason for gold plate solder ability problems I found this helpful article.http://www.pcbdesignschool.com/2012/11/25/when-enig-doesnt-solder/I did not know that ENIG plating (The most common form of gold plating, and on PCB's in general today for lead free) had such a short shelf life. It explains a lot.

author: Halcyon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 05:59:04 am
content: Also, it's pronounced phonetically (i.e.: "solder") not "sodder" as the Americans would have you believeIt's a bit like those who mispronounce Moët and Chandon wine as "moey". It's "mo-wett".

author: Halcyon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 06:50:44 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on November 13, 2016, 06:42:11 amIndeed. It's linguistic snobbery at it's finest. Just don't say "mo-ey" in front of serious wine drinkers unless you want to be (a) told otherwise and/or (b) sound like a complete bogan. (It's not eventhatnice of a wine... Bollinger is far more delicious.)

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 07:47:05 am
content: ...Pronounced "Boy-en-jay" no doubt.

author: chris36202
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 01:45:49 pm
content: Here's a picture of the solder I'm using

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 02:00:42 pm
content: +1 for using proto boards to learn on. You can buy them cheap as chips along with cheap China passives kits. You didn't mention what type of soldering iron you use. Is it a firestick or a temp controlled unit? If it is a firestick and you plan on soldering a lot, consider upgrading to something better.Look at soldering videos. Much easier to watch than try to figure out what someone is trying to explain with text. The Pace videos, though old, will be a big help. So will the NASA videos but that is mil spec soldering and a bit extreme for hobbyist use.Your choice of solder is good. I use Kester 44, 66 core in 63/37 because it's eutectic. You could also use liquid flux for better wetting of the joint. I use MG Chemicals RMA flux myself.Finally, PRACTICE, PRACTICE and PRACTICE some more. You will get better the more you solder.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 02:12:06 pm
content: The solder you're using is fine (Kester 44 has an RA flux core).Though likeGreyWoolfeabove, I prefer 63/37 as well. Being eutectic, there's no plastic region that makes it easier to disturb the joint before it's fully solidified.Having some additional liquid flux on hand is something I'd highly recommend as well (MG Chemicals 835-100ml; BTW it's RA, not RMA). Dispense as you see fit (needle bottle, brush, brush pen, nail polish bottle w/ brush, ...). Much less expensive than disposable pens this way.And as mentioned, practice will improve your technique immensely.

author: chris36202
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 02:33:21 pm
content: I kinda of messed up on this one

author: CraigHB
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 02:39:35 pm
content: You can fix those joints first shown in two seconds with some desoldering braid. Also get a flux pen or other flux applicator and wet your connections before soldering. It will make solder joints come out nicely with little effort. Your second photo shows some issues. Looks you need to practice some before doing an actual kit.

author: Quarlo Klobrigney
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 02:59:55 pm
content: Quote from: chris36202 on November 13, 2016, 02:33:21 pmPlease throw away your slobbering iron and get a real soldering iron.Practice makes perfect. Try to master soldering on a 2200 hole or less cheap perfboard such ashttps://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-grid-style-pc-board-with-2200-holes?variant=20332061829from Radio Shack if it is still in business... The task is to not join all the pads where you do not want to...What I see on your board is either not enough heat or not enough time. I do use Kester 44, but not on fine work as it leaves too much rosin behind.Pace offers a Youtoob coursefor the absolute beginner. Although dated, the theory remains the same, only the packaging and old skool tech are outdated.Remember these videos are done by a "professional announcer". Like all Disk Jockeys, it is done with a "natural voice". Only emphasizing when necessary, for proper effect.You may jump ahead to #6 Component soldering if you wish

author: jonovid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 03:03:06 pm
content: why anyone would make a beginners pcb with just the minimum clearance needed?keeping so much excess copper next to the pads , this is bad beginners pcb design. i find now days with chinese pcb's i need lots of flux, clean pads , pre-tinning and tap-n-go soldering.but what would I know

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 03:04:07 pm
content: Quote from: Halcyon on November 13, 2016, 05:59:04 amYeah,they told us that when we visited the Moët and Chandon vineyard/plant in Victoria (bet you didn't know they had one in Vic)M.Moët was a Flemish bloke from Belgium,hence the commonsense pronunciation.People try to give it a "French" pronunciation,hence "moey".or as I've heard more often,"Mo-ay".

author: chris36202
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 03:23:08 pm
content: Noted. Any suggestions of a soldering iron or a soldering station that i could find in Canada?

author: Quarlo Klobrigney
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 03:31:09 pm
content: It all depends on budget, continued usage and quality, What are you using now?

author: chris36202
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 03:35:26 pm
content: Quote from: Quarlo Klobrigney on November 13, 2016, 03:31:09 pmThe iron came in a kit. I can see a model number on it that says GCH-25D, The Kit is a pro point "8492902" 25W soldering iron kitI'd say my budget is around $100 CAD. Not USD

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 03:40:37 pm
content: Quote from: Halcyon on November 13, 2016, 06:50:44 amI guess I must be a bogan,but I don't really find any French wine that great.I think a lot of the worship of their wine originates from a "cultural cringe" on the part of the Brits,dating back to the Norman Conquest.Germany,Italy,Spain & Portugal don't have this feeling of inferiority,so rate their wines just as high or higher.There is no reason for Australia,New Zealand,the USA,or South Africa to feel their product is inferior,either.Hell,my wife & I had aBalinesewine,& it was delicious!Back on topic,if your iron is a bit wimpy,it is sometimes hard to heat the pads enough to melt the solder.A sneaky trick is to preheat the board with a heat gun,.Another point is that the component leads & the pads need to be clean--no corrosion, finger prints,& so on.If they "look" clean, wipe them with a tissue dampened in IPA,or other appropriate solvent----you will be surprised.Solder often develops an oxide layer on the outside.It is a good idea to clean the first few inches of the solder in the same way as for the leads of the through---hole components.

author: Ampera
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 03:40:57 pm
content: My soldering iron is one step up from a plain jane soldering stick. If you've ever been around makerspaces, probably in North America, but I could be wrong, I have the classic baby blue station with an unmarked dial that everybody just turns all the way up, or nothing at all.It works well enough for my needs, it's normally thrown in a storage bin for most of it's life, and only brought out on occasion. Computer engineers normally don't use soldering irons, but when working with older stuff, it is occasionally useful.

author: Quarlo Klobrigney
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 03:43:02 pm
content: All I get is Princess Auto, is that where it came from?I'm sorry all I own is professional grade soldering equipment that cost $500+. Maybe someone can chime in here and stop derailing the topic and help with a cheaper alternative available in Canada.

author: Ampera
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 03:44:59 pm
content: Quote from: vk6zgo on November 13, 2016, 03:40:37 pmAnother tip I find useful, which may be controversial here, is to use lead based solder (60/40 tin/lead is normally good). It melts and flows better, and I don't know if mine is just cheap, but when I use tin solder, I find it occasionally spits at me, but that might just be cheap flux.Don't use it if you're planning on giving it to a three year old, still it's probably fine if you stick it in a case. It might be hard to find, I don't know if it's made anymore, all I know is that in my personal time soldering, the tin solder is completely rubbish, it takes longer to melt, doesn't flow right, and I normally just grab my leaded spool and get the tiny 0.01% of lead in my system I would get from being in an old house anyways.

author: Quarlo Klobrigney
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 03:49:05 pm
content: Save yourself agony and despair. Use only lead solder not lead free. The LF stoof is abominable. Ask Dave

author: chris36202
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 03:49:38 pm
content: Quote from: Quarlo Klobrigney on November 13, 2016, 03:43:02 pmYeah, I got the kit from princess auto too.

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 04:06:48 pm
content: See if you can find a Weller WTCP soldering iron secondhand.----they are still a bit costly new,even though they are "old technology".They don't have a pretty rotary control on the front---the temperature setting comes from special tips.Standard tips are 700F which will do most soldering jobs.What theydohave,is enough power reserve to stay at around the temp set by the tip,when actually soldering.There are more modern adjustable "solder stations" which really can maintain tip temp in the same way for any settings,& they are more expensive than a new WTCP,but not ridiculously so.There are also "pretend" solder stations,where the "temp adjustment" knob controls a plain old "light dimmer" circuit.This link shows the theory of operation of light dimmers.http://www.sprags.com/They are effectively driven directly from the Mains,with no transformer or SMPS ( they glue some weights in the bottom of the box,so it feels heavy,like a transformer)

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 06:22:53 pm
content: Quote from: chris36202 on November 13, 2016, 03:35:26 pmI did a little browsing on eBay Canada. There is this:http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HAKKO-936-Soldering-Station-with-HAKKO-907-Handpiece-Soldering-Tip-65-Watt-/182338896304?hash=item2a743ec1b0:g:rmMAAOSwMVdYFrYUThere is a fairly good chance it is a real Hakko and not a fake. Invest in a couple of OEM chisel tips like 1.6 and 2.4 mm size and you will be right around $100 C or maybe a little over. A good entry level station to learn on. I had one for 7 years before I upgraded. I would just do the buy it now. He has rejected 2 offers and 6 people are watching.I'm not saying jump on this particular one, I am offering my educated opinion and showing you 1 option. However, we know what opinions are likeedit: here is a Yihua 936 clone. It might be decent. I have a Yihua 858 hot air station and it works well for the price. Make sure you still get OEM Hakko tips. They last longer and are much better quality.

author: chris36202
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 06:29:43 pm
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on November 13, 2016, 06:22:53 pmI'll take a look into it

author: R005T3r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 06:32:12 pm
content: Forget lead free and cheap generic solder: they are not worth it. You need specific equipment only to handle lead free solder (and a lot of experience).Take a soldering station, I reccomand you to get a Hakko 888 station or equivalent.Use flux: you will improve a 100% your results and the solder transfers better to the joints.If you want, try out some solder wick to correct your mess. If you like having a soldering pump better, get one with a silicon nose tip: it works great compared to cheap ones.Also, solder wire is definitely to consider: use the solder wire with proper thickness for your job 0.32-0.5mm is fine. 1mm is most likely for bigger components.To sum up what I've learn so far, there are various solder types, (and if you don't clean your joints at job finished you will corrode things):1. RA (rosin activated) : for old boards, cleaning is mandatory.2. RMA (midly rosin activated): less aggressive than RA, cleaning is mandatory3. NoClean: cleaning is optional, but it's good to do so.4. water based: cleaning is mandatory. It's even more aggressive than RAFor the iron tips, take some chisel type tips as aforementioned.That said, I suggest you to consider NoClean stuff, but do not consider generic brands or $1 solder: you end up with wasting money, and with a poor result. Needless to say: extract soldering fumes since they are dangerous to your health.

author: chris36202
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 06:37:05 pm
content: How's this for a soldering station?https://www.amazon.ca/WeberDisplays-Lead-Free-Soldering-Station-3-Digit/dp/B015C4VDPE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479062062&sr=8-1&keywords=soldering%20station

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 07:08:02 pm
content: Quote from: chris36202 on November 13, 2016, 01:45:49 pmThat's the stuff you should be using. Good old Kester 44

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 07:13:03 pm
content: Oh and for cleaning RA flux you can use non chlorinated brake cleaner. Just make sure you don't have any abs parts mounted yet or they will melt from the solvent. Best flux remover you can get and it is CHEAP AS! I recommend washing with brake cleaner, then immediately flush with deionized water. Tap water works if your water is not too hard. Your mileage will vary.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 07:21:05 pm
content: Weller WTCP irons are known to have issues with the magnastat switch that cuts off the heating element when they are up to temperature. They develop bad contacts and typically then fail to heat from cold unless you give the barrel a sharpish tap on the bench. Eventually, they fail to heat at all until the switch contacts have been carefully dressed and cleaned. Sometimes the switch jams on and the iron overheats. New switches are available but there have been problems with quality control . . . .I'm not saying don't get one second hand, but if possible see it working, check it heats from cold without percussive maintenance, andeitherlisten carefully for the slight click as the switch cycles (several times a minute)orput an AC voltmeter across the PSU if it has accessible output terminals and watch the output drop slightly on load and rise when the switch opens. With the iron undisturbed in the stand it should cycle regularly, and if a 700 deg F bit (stamped 7 on the base) is freshly tinned, it shouldn't oxidise excessively if its left in the stand for 5 minutes.However it should be possible to do a reasonably good job even with an unregulated 25W iron from the hardware store. The bit needs to be clean, in good shape and freshly tinned and it mustn't be loose or wobbly in the iron. There's a slightly different technique to it as you have to adapt your dwell time to the size of the joint and the CSA of copper tracks and leads stealing heat away from the joint + if doing large joints you need to wait a few tens of seconds between them for the bit temperature to recover, and the higher temperature excursions make it more of a PITA to keep the bit clean and well tinned, but it should be easily possible to do a much better job than what you have shown us.

author: R005T3r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 07:32:35 pm
content: Don't use brake cleaner: Isoprphyl alcohol is just fine, and it dissolves with air so when you are handling micro-components it dires by itself: in Canada/US it won't cost a lot. And, just in case you are rubbing sensitive equipment, use a proper ESD nylon/propyl brush or you will kill the device...Kester 44 solder istought it is a RA solder, so remember cleaning is mandatory.Don't forget the flux:https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-Corrosive-Conductive-Residue/dp/B0080X79HG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1479065456&sr=8-7&keywords=flux

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 07:48:24 pm
content: Looks better way than my first attempts! There are some very good videos online showing the hows and whys. Most important, practice practice practice. Good luck with your project.

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2016, 09:34:11 pm
content: Quote from: calexanian on November 13, 2016, 07:13:03 pmBrake cleaner is a carcinogen. : (

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2016, 03:05:33 pm
content: Quote from: chris36202 on November 13, 2016, 03:23:08 pmYou're best bet would be to look for decent used stations (do note most, if not all, will be located in the US).Some examples:Hakko 939Hakko 936(no stand)Hakko FX-888(analog version)Tips and spares are still available for all of the above examples.Regarding cleaning, you can leave the Kester 44 on the boards (RA). Same goes for MG Chemicals 835 flux (RA). Read the datasheet/s for the products you're using instead of guessing. There are instances where cleaning is truly required (i.e. Mil-Spec & high impedance), but it's not generally the case. Cleaning of Rosin variants & no-clean formulations is primarily done for aesthetics.FWIW, I use Kleen Strip brand of denatured alcohol (theirs is ~50/50 mix of ethanol & methanol). If I need stronger, I mix in 20% of xylene by volume, and in a pinch, can add some acetone. Kleen Strip sells these other chemicals, which can all be found in Home Depot's paint dept., and are inexpensive IME.

author: CraigHB
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2016, 03:59:02 pm
content: For someone who's just starting out with soldering at the hobby level an inexpensive Chinese brand station will do. You can find them pretty cheap. Dave even did a review on a station you can get form HobbyKing for around $20. I certainly would recommend a brand name station such as the Hakko FX-888D, but if money is a concern you don't have to pay the premium. The main thing is the iron has adjustable temperature. Also the quality of the tip is important.That would be the number one thing before setting out to solder a PCB, that is using the correct tool for the job. I've been soldering electronics most of my life and I don't think I could do much better than the OP with one of those cheapo 25W sticks, they're really awful for soldering electronics, pretty much impossible.Next after the station would be solder selection. Kester 44 is a good solder to use. I actually use their 63/37 with their "285" RMA core, but the "44" RA core also works well, either 60/40 or 63/37. The lead free stuff is difficult to use and almost impossible for a beginner. Unless you have a specific need for lead free solder you should avoid using it. In some cases it is necessary when toxicity may be a concern.

author: chris36202
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2016, 04:08:04 pm
content: Quote from: CraigHB on November 14, 2016, 03:59:02 pmAlright. Thanks for the infoSent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2016, 07:01:31 pm
content: I will stick with my brake cleaner. After 20 years, I am a true believer. IPA on RA flux leaves a conductive residue. You have to use a more powerful solvent in production.

author: CraigHB
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2016, 08:24:34 pm
content: I've used brake cleaner before, but not on electronics. I know the difference between that and other spray solvents like carb cleaner is it doesn't leave a residue. I'd be concerned it might degrade plastics, carb cleaner does. IPA is pretty safe for plastics.

author: CJay
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2016, 09:35:37 pm
content: Practice, practice and practice.If you use a good solder with a good flux core you won't need any more flux.If you use a soldering iron with plenty of heat capacity it makes it much easier to make a good solder joint but if you've got the knack and decent solder you can make a good joint with a screwdriver that's been heated on a gas flame.Conversely if you have an iron that's not got enough power it will be nigh impossible to make a good solder joint.Personal preference, I have Weller W60 magnastat irons, they've already been mentioned and yes, the Magnastats do die.I've replaced the one in mine once in fifteen years.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2016, 09:58:48 pm
content: Quote from: CJay on November 14, 2016, 09:35:37 pmI get what you're saying (i.e. 3 - 3.3% by weight is typically enough for a typical PTH), but it's too vague.There are certainly variances that would dictate a the answer as"it depends". For example, solder manufacturers make different size flux cores; so a joint that a P3, core 66, or stated as 3~3.3% would handle beautifully, a P1/core 50/1% core by weight won't (same joint, oxidation level, ...). Then the type of soldering can affect it, particularly the drag technique; adding additional flux to the pins is a necessity with this method (especially the finer the pitch IME).Additional flux comes in handy with SMD component removal as well using the drag method (i.e. snip the pins, then drag & remove with tweezers). Works great if you don't need to salvage the component, and a hot air station isn't available or worth firing up for a single part.

author: fubar.gr
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 14, 2016, 10:07:18 pm
content: Quote from: chris36202 on November 13, 2016, 02:31:12 amIn my experience, when the component leads are that long, you are much more likely to end up with this pear-shaped solder joint, no matter how hard you try to get it right. I guess this is due to some thermal issue, with the long leads acting like a heatsink.So before soldering, cut the leads in half. They will still be plenty long for easy handling and insertion, but the pear shaped thing will be less likely to happen.

author: Red Squirrel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2016, 11:24:12 pm
content: I find practice is what helps the most, once you get the solder to flow properly it just clicks, and you can almost "feel" that it's a good joint or not. A temp regulated iron works best, too.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 12:46:23 pm
content: Quote from: Red Squirrel on November 14, 2016, 11:24:12 pm+100 to that and the others that suggested practicing on disposable boards/components. Despite a great temperature regulated station helps a lot (although it still requires practice to properly adjust the temperature for each situation), there is nothing wrong with a simple "hot stick" iron if it puts out enough heat. 25W works well for the pads you are trying to solder, while 30 or 35W tends to be better for larger areas.Something similar to this is what I used for quite some time:http://www.frys.com/product/1684362I have been doing hobby electronics for more than 30 years and only four years ago I bought a temperature controlled station (Hakko FX888). It works much better, but especially because I started doing some lead free soldering and the "hot stick" irons brings too much variance to the process.

author: CraigHB
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 06:06:28 pm
content: The problem with those soldering sticks is probably more the tip than anything else. They come with pretty crappy tips. If you can put a quality tip on one that would make it a much more viable tool. There's also the fact that even a 25W pencil is too hot for small PCB components. If you're not quick and accurate the first time components can get damaged pretty easily. I've been soldering electronics most of my life, but didn't start using a temperature controlled iron until a couple decades ago. Though back then it was all through hole which is more tolerant to heat. Even so I did heat stress components a few times soldering with a 25W stick. Since I've been using a temperature controlled iron, I've never damaged a component in soldering even after removing and replacing the same component.