hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Fluke 1651 Err1 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: carter_383
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 14, 2024, 04:29:06 pm
content: Hi all,I recently bought a fluke 1651 spares or repairs on eBay with ERR1 hoping i could fix it, as always i should have done a quick google before bidding but i'll never learn!i don't intend to use this for anything commercial nor do i intend to rely on any of the test result this machine generates for anything critical.anyway after messing around with the device a bit i was able to pull the firmware off both the main board and display board, and after some bit banging and reverse engineering i able to find several ERR1 Strings called at different points in the firmware, redefining these strings, and creating new error codes creating a ERR6 and ERR7 i was able to find the exact function calling the error but now i'm stuck so i'm turning to you the all knowing internet for some advice.I've attached the firmware files and an image of the called function in ghidraany pointers, advice or fixes would be greatly appreciatedCharles

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2024, 07:24:23 pm
content: Change line 146 to return.Until then everything is fine.After that change you'll most likely get some other errors.

author: EHT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2024, 11:15:08 pm
content: Quote from: carter_383 on February 14, 2024, 04:29:06 pmNice. Would you mind sharing how you were able to do this?
Fluke 1663 MFT Fault - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Gangway
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2024, 02:29:45 am
content: Fluke 1663 MFT with FUSE error on Continuity mode (battery operations)Fuse test confirm same.Anyone know location / rating if this is a onboard component on main PCB.
Fluke 1735 repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: monchichack
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 14, 2021, 11:14:07 am
content: Looking to repair a Fluke 1735 logger.Unfortunately it is missing the power adapter input pcb & USB input pcb but I've got another working 1735 and suspect these would not be difficult to replicate.The main problem is no power, something is happening but the unit does not function and there is no backlight.Does anyone have any experience with these meters or can anyone supply me with a copy of the psu & backlight psu schematic?ThanksChris
FLUKE 1743 RECORDING EQUIPMENT REPAIR - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: EDER
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2024, 10:59:08 pm
content: Hello everyone, please, I would appreciate it if you could support me with the repair of a Fluke 1743 device. The problem that it is currently experiencing is that it does not initialize, when energized with 220VAC only all the yellow LEDs turn on and stay there, with which is not possible to communicate the equipment with the PC.I have replaced the capacitors and also the main board battery however the problem persists. If anyone has the service manual or has information/suggestions, please share with me.*Here I attach images of the card.kind regards
Fluke 1745 – Won't Turn On - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: EDER
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2025, 11:38:59 pm
content: Dear community,First of all, thank you for your attention. I'd like to let you know that my FLUKE 1745 (formerly LEM) analyzer recently failed. It suddenly shut down and hasn't turned back on. Upon opening it, I noticed some electronic components, such as resistors and transistors, were burned out. I've managed to identify some resistor and transistor values, but I still can't determine which resistor values are marked in yellow. If someone could help me by indicating the resistor value, I would appreciate it.I'll upload photos of the repair so it can also be helpful to other colleagues in the industry.Thank you.

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2025, 01:56:19 pm
content: Not very usually taken apart, I guess.Seems that you must draw a schematics.So HV side of opto and power semi between trafo and reservoir capacitor.Can be a switcher part of an SMPS, shouldn't be overly complicated.

author: microvia
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2025, 01:18:02 pm
content: There's a blown component (presumably a transistor) just above RC on the right, and another one under RB as well.I would test the two transistors looking ok as well as the 4011.Most important is to find what caused the trouble.
FLUKE 1750 Operation Problems - Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: EDER
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2023, 02:26:44 am
content: Good evening friends, please I would appreciate your support if someone has had the same thing happen to them with a FLUKE 1750 device, the current problem is that it does not initialize correctly (only the green power LED turns on), I measured the voltage at the terminal block where the battery is connected. internal and the voltage is 0VDC. I will appreciate your comments

author: Vovk_Z
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2023, 06:05:20 am
content: In-circuit ESR-meter could help a lot with testing electrolyte caps. Though they look fine they still may fail from age. Next step - check all semiconductors and PWM ICs (LNK304 etc).
Fluke 179 - AC range not working - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: gaztech
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 30, 2019, 11:35:33 am
content: Hi guys,Dropped this post to the test equipment section, then realised that there was actually a "Repair" section. Not really sure which one it should be in but here goes:My trusty Fluke 179 AC Range stopped working after another employee "borrowed" it! I've had this meter for many years and have never had a single issue with it. Just goes to prove the old adage "Don't lend out your tools!".I need to get this fixed pronto as I use it all the time. If I measure mains voltage it only reads a few mV. DC volts measure ok, resistance measurements are also ok. I'm thinking that a diode bridge is most likely blown out.However, before I take it apart blind I thought it worth getting some advice from the guys in the know! What should I be looking for - or better, does anyone know what is causing this fault?Please help - and thanks in advance!

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2019, 11:17:29 pm
content: Schematics for the Fluke 179 can be found by emailing Markhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-77-repair-184173/msg2382876/#msg2382876The 77IV and 170 series share common pcb so it should help you narrow down why AC is not working.In addition, take the meter apart and post clear focused pictures of both sides of the pcb. Perhaps something is obviously bad or blown?

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2019, 11:36:49 pm
content: Does AC Amps work? Your friend may have blown your fuses as well?

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2019, 11:50:22 pm
content: I forgot to mention that if you are the original owner and bought it from a Fluke authorized dealer (with proof), you may be able to send it back to Fluke for warranty repair.Their terms and conditions for the warranty repair is typically the 2nd or 3rd page of the user manual. You can find the manual on Fluke's website. You will also find how they define "lifetime" warranty.
Fluke 179 Broken On Fused Positive Test Leads - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jerdobi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 11, 2019, 12:19:20 am
content: I fried my Fluke 179 by attaching to a power source that blew the fuses.. After replacing fuses the 400Ma and 10A side shows an open circuit with COM although the V (red) lead will work COM lead. Even with replacing the fuses it will not work so something on the fused side of the circuit is fried past the fuses. So, I'm going to start researching the DF06S I see just down stream from the fuses, etc.. That said, I'm sure some experts know what may have failed and can give me a recommendation?

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2019, 02:28:47 am
content: I'm confused with your description. Let's start with the following.Q1. What were you measuring that blew BOTH the 400mA and 10A fuse? What did you have rotary switch set on?Q2. Does measuring a 1.5 AA cell work? Do you get 1.5V DC?Q3. Does measuring a 1k ohm resistor work? Do you get 1k?Q4. If you measure low level DC mA current, like a flashlight, does it work?Your picture is too small for us to see any details.

author: jerdobi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 11, 2019, 02:45:59 am
content: Sorry about picture. It shows no damaged or burned components. I was measuring parasite drain on a 12v car battery and shorted it across both pos and neg on the battery. Seems working fine on unfused but not on fused side. I checked the rectifier DF06S and it checked out.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2019, 03:08:01 am
content: Is the big 1 ohm Dale resistor open?

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2019, 03:21:22 am
content: Is R10 smd resistor, marked 1004, (1M ohm) on the pcb open? R10 is by U1. See attached pic, circled in red. Pic fromhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-77iv-and-179-differences-with-teardown-photos/Any burn marks underneath the white plastic rotary shield?

author: jerdobi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 12, 2019, 04:14:33 am
content: Doesn't show open nor any burnt components or traces seen on board. Interesting that unfused works with in my testing with diode test and ohm testing. Just the fused side is dead.

author: AG6QR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2019, 06:02:10 am
content: Are you absolutely sure that the replacement fuses are good? Have you tested them with another meter? If you don't have another meter, can you take them out and test them each with the Fluke 179 in ohms mode?When you put the meter in the ohms mode, and connect a probe directly from the red V+ socket to the 400mA current socket, what does the display read? How about when you connect the probe directly from the red V+ socket to the 10A current socket? (If the meter and fuses are good, readings in the neighborhood of 1.8 ohm for the 400mA socket and 0.1 ohm for the 10A socket are typical.)

author: jerdobi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 12, 2019, 07:18:47 pm
content: Fuses check out and your guidance checks out. Fuses are good and I have another Radio Shack multimeter.
Fluke 179 broken? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Malte
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 11:48:37 pm
content: Delete Pls.

author: beatman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 04:32:39 am
content: My 177 show 0.7mv and my 179 shows 1.1mv. Try measure some mains and close the meter and open again.I don't know if this is normal other fluke dmm experts may know more here.

author: nightfire
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 06:40:13 am
content: Put in some test leads and short them- value should go down.Other test: Move the multimeter to a different location and check if value changes- might pick up some radiation from nearby devices.Edit: My U1272A tells me about 12mV in ACV mode, and about 60mV in ACmV mode with open connectors, so it is not unnormal to get some results. I can try to look later at my 179 at work how that behaves in this regard.

author: ArdWar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 07:14:57 am
content: It isn't unusual for a high impedance meter to read stray voltages. After all it only need a couple nanoamperes of leakage or induced current to generate 100 mV in a nominally 50 Meg meter.That being said it isn't common either for them to read in the hundreds of mV without anything attached. Usually it's caused by the floating test leads acting as an antenna.

author: J-R
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2024, 05:50:56 am
content: Could just be a ton of noise from LEDs used to take the photo.You could clean the PCB and input jacks if it's still acting up when you get it.
FLUKE 179 CALL ERR - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: fawadrj
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 17, 2020, 09:16:09 pm
content: HI , MY FLUKE BATTERY GOES LOW, I REPLACE BUT IT GIVING NOW "CALL ERR" CHECK BATTERY V ITS OK,, IS IT POSSIBLE TO MAKE FACTORY REST,, OR ANY OTHER TIP,,

author: Ordinaryman1971
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2020, 07:05:06 pm
content: Did you try to calibrate it?Does the error go away if you keep the meter on, can you make any measurements when the message goes away. Is the message displayed on all ranges or only, for example, if you are in DC Volts or Ohm measurement mode?If you get this message you have to calibrate your meter...

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2020, 09:27:00 pm
content: If you bought the meter from an authorized dealer and meet its terms and conditions, return it to Fluke for repair.The terms and conditions are on page 2 or your manual.
Fluke 179 off readings (VDC, ohms) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: hunter_sk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 06, 2022, 12:35:54 am
content: I have an issue with Fluke 179 precision. Ohms range shows about 30M when should be OL, and around 30 ohms when closed and decreasing to ~1 ohm for about a minute. (probes are fine)VDC shows about 250mV on open loop when should be 0. Internal resistance is about 11M (sounds fine to me) and sending 1mA to probes when measuring resistance.VDC on 9V battery shows difference from other DM about 0.2V.I've measured reference voltage on pins 10,11 on IC and it's 2.5V. MOVs shows high resistivity (OL on my Voltcraft MT-52). Also measured some testpoints to discover abnormality. Most of them was 0.8V, one 4V sharp, TDI/TCLK shows about 0.05V, P2.1/TB0 was negativeI'm not an electrician, just enthusiast, so just investigating from every sources I can get.If someone can lead me to what I can check or when I can find that leak, I would be grateful.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2022, 07:23:19 pm
content: Suggestions.1. Clean entire PCB with IPA and let it dry thouroughly. If you have debris, dirt or previous alkaline battery leakage, this will affect your readings.2. Check your PTC. It should be around 1Kohm.3. Check your range switch for dirt, debris. Seehttp://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-83-iii-rotary-switch/4. Check for dirt, debris, soldering around the input jacks.

author: hunter_sk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 06, 2022, 08:40:05 pm
content: Thank you for the suggestions, retiredcaps.1. Cleaned 1 year ago (part was corroded), then it was dead brick. I have repaired missing traces and still dead. After 1 year I have returned to it and it runs, but some values are off, some floating (decreasing ohms)2. PTC 1,11k3. Rotary switch looks OK to me, clean4. Jacks looks OKIt is OK to flood some true hole connections with solder? I have an bad feeling that that ones, which have been corroded may have loose connections inside in middle layers of PCB.Measured values:VDC open 0.035V, closed 0.03VmVDC open -60mV, closed -1.9mVohms open 12-20Mohms closed 12 and decreasing to 1 for 1-2 minutes9v bat with Fluke 179: 9.34V9v bat with other dmm: 9.5VThanks again for help

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2022, 09:45:22 pm
content: If something was corroded, I suggest an IPA bath first of the entire PCB.In the past, I bought used and abused Flukes. One was particularly dirty and when I shorted the probes, I would get -2 ohms. It took 3 repeated IPA cleanings of the entire PCB before it properly reads 0.2 ohms.Your PTC measures good.
Fluke 179 repair (probably rotary switch) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: RFontana
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 09, 2025, 10:43:06 am
content: Hello everyone!I have a 179 that by the looks of it is not switching modes (turns on but stuck in ----)Also it doesn't change info when turning on while pressing hold, but all start up configs work so I think the mc is ok.It seems to me that the mc is interpreting the switch as stuck between modes so maybe it is a connection problem. Anyone know the path from the rotary switch to the controller?Thanks in advance.

author: bborisov567
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2025, 10:50:44 am
content: The predecessor to the 179 is the 70 series III.There is a service manual for the 77 iii:https://dam-assets.fluke.com/s3fs-public/77iii___smeng0100.pdfYou may look at it to find an idea of the schematic regarding the switch. Also a good visual inspection might give you some clues. Look for battery leakage.

author: RFontana
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 09, 2025, 12:55:10 pm
content: Too different for my taste unfortunately...

author: RFontana
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 09, 2025, 12:57:58 pm
content: I tried mapping the switch contacts. I found that some of the contacts lead to pin 5 of the microprocessor. Its values at different positions measured with a fluke 189:0.334v0.628v0.906v1.184v1.481v1.814v2.206vThis seems like it's doing its job so maybe I do have a problem with the processor afterall

author: mqsaharan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2025, 04:50:16 pm
content: Quote from: RFontana on May 09, 2025, 12:57:58 pmPerhaps, you are right.Please take a look at the following video. This guy is repairing a Fluke 179 with the symptoms like yours.https://youtu.be/oxdY1JGAsEs?t=56I hope it helps.

author: RFontana
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 13, 2025, 02:47:16 pm
content: Is the microcontroller flashable? Is there a rom available for it?

author: Ugur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2025, 11:09:29 am
content: This is a processor failure. But it is not a scary situation. You can deliver this device to the authorized service in your region. The device will be replaced with a new one under warranty. The warranty period of the device is LLTW. Limited life time warrantyAresAgante, Lda.Representatives, Estudios E Projectos, Lda.Rua Caminho das Congostas, 320P-4250-159 PortoPortugal+351-22-832-9400+351-22-832-9399 (telefax)geral@aresagante.pt
Fluke 180LR Laser level "repair" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2022, 11:45:49 pm
content: Hey people,maybe someone's got a good idea.I've got one of these Fluke laser levels but it behaves weird.https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/building-infrastructure/laser-levels/fluke-180lr-fluke-180lgMine shuts off after about 20 or 30 seconds. I think I know why it does that: It's an ex demo unit from a shop, never intended to be sold. To preserve the batteries I suppose they made special demo units that shut off. Now, I'd like to use it anyway it's quite handy to have. But in this demo mode it's a pain when you're up a ladder marking stuff up and constantly need to climb down to switch te laser back on.I thought maybe there's just a jumper or resistor inside to put it in this mode, so I've opened it to have a look. I can't find anything that looks like it was hand soldered. I've even drawn out the schematic to make sure. There's not much happening in there.Just an unmarked micro a dual mosfet and a low power reset circuit. So I suppose they used a special version of the micro with a special firmware on it. Or maybe I'm missing something. Haven't done any measuring yet.I suppose the micro turns on MOSFET 1 to switch on the horizontal laser beam and MOSFET 2 for the vertical beam. When both are required both MOSFETS get turned on. Then there's the fourth pin on J2 that I assume activates the tilt mode - the laser level is not a level anymore in tilt mode. As I said have not checked if any of that is true yet.As I see it there are two options now:1. Find a µC with same pin out, write code for it and replace the original.2. Complete re-design of my own.Maybe I'm missing something obvious?PS:Sorry, only had that red piece of paper.

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2022, 08:55:53 pm
content: I've figured out how the laser module works now and have bodged in a new micro with my own software on it. Functionality is now restored. It works basically as before apart from the pulse function, wich I do not need.I've replaced the original micro with a ATTiny13A, had to do some minor cutting of traces and installing bodge wires but it works.I've also redrawn the original schematics and the new schematics with the Tiny installed.The new firmware is very simple, written in Bascom.Maybe someone has any use for this in the future.Edit: Fuses for the Attiny13 Low: 0xE1 High 0xFA
Fluke 183 / Tektronix TX1 inaccuracy in voltage measurement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: kdl1950
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2023, 05:53:33 pm
content: Hello everyone,I have a question about my Fluke 183 = Tektronix TX1.As can be seen in the pictures, the accuracy in the voltage range is insufficient.The value is actually always too high. In the AC and DC area.Now my question is whether it is defect or whether it can be reset with a calibration?Maybe someone knows this phenomenon?The current measurement works in AC and DC without any problems.Greet Alex

author: alm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2023, 05:49:10 am
content: Quote from: kdl1950 on June 18, 2023, 05:53:33 pmDefine insufficient. The 1 year accuracy as specified by the manual is 0.07% + 1 count in 3.5 digit mode (+10 counts in 4.5 digit mode) for DCV, and 0.1% + 1 count in ACV mode. Even if the other two meters are accurate within 1 count (something you have not provided any evidence for), the readings appear (just) in spec to me.

author: kdl1950
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2023, 10:09:41 am
content: Hello alm,thanks for your detailed explanation.I was just surprised that it is so "inaccurate" compared to the other Fluke measuring devices.It's not a real Fluke either, it's a Tektronix.Nevertheless, it is a very good measuring device that I enjoy working with.Greetings
FLUKE 187 Backlight leads to battery low warning - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: shockpoint
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2024, 10:44:52 pm
content: Hi all,I have a fluke 187 that is behaving oddly.Other than that it seems to read measurements well.So without the backlight on it functions wellWhen I turn the backlight on, within a few seconds the low battery warning shows up and the screen LCD digits start to fade as though I switched it off, followed by the backlight switchin goff- this error shows up whether I'm connecting 4 AA batteries or a 4.8V power supplyThe current draw of the backlight seems to be around 40-80mA when it is onHas anyone heard of an issue like this before?- there seems to be some minor corrosion on the negative battery terminal - I haven't looked inside the device yet but the only thing I can think of after reading all the posts about 187 and 189 is that the corroded terminals may resist how much current is drawn into the device and possibly results in not enough energy being supplied to run both the DMM functions AND the backlight

author: shockpoint
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2024, 12:41:02 pm
content: Update- solvedStupid mistake on my part. FacepalmI assumed that 4.8V was the voltage that the 187 required because I popped 4 NiMH batteries into it and it switched onChecked the manual and realised that it called for 1.5V AAs, which is 6VTried 6V on my PSU, and the backlight stayed on.False alarm! In case anyone else has the same problem I shall leave this post here, to my shame

author: theHWcave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2024, 03:04:22 pm
content: Still, I have a 187 with 4 NiMh not charged in ages and the backlight is fine. I would check your batteries. One may be weak (high internal resistance) so the voltage collapses way more than normal when the load increases

author: shockpoint
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2024, 01:03:59 am
content: Quote from: theHWcave on September 27, 2024, 03:04:22 pmGood point! I'll investigate the circuitry - there is rusting at the battery terminals from corrosion so I wonder if an acid wash would help improve the conductivity. As far as the main circuit goes I don't see any issuesThe batteries are from a new pack, but I'll check them anyway.
fluke 187 leads alert - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: leonm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 08, 2021, 01:29:04 pm
content: hi members,my fluke 187 gives LEADS alert on all selector switch positions. It started off in intermittent fashion and responded to terminal cleaning but fault is now permanent. after placing the pc board only for 24 hrs under a heat source, slight "improvement" in that mA and uA switch positions give no alert. a healthy meter of course gives alert on these positions only!is this a known fault condition?is the circuit diagram of the fluke 187 available anywhere?

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2021, 10:25:55 pm
content: Likely socket still dirty or fuse if you have replaced it. You should be able to pull a fuse and test it from the back of the socket isolated. I had one that took considerable effort to clean.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2021, 02:08:42 am
content: Ultrasonic cleaner.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-189-teardown-repair/
Fluke 187 repair of input socket  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: theHWcave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2022, 10:50:23 am
content: Got this one very reasonably from eBay because of "problems". Turns out that the rightmost socket is not working. As this is the one for volts/ohms/diode... it renders the meter to just do currents.I thought it's just a cracked solder joint and re soldered the pins (several times) as seen on the first picture. No joy. There is no continuity from whatever is plugged into that socket to the pins on the PCB. Finally I gave in and looked for a socket replacement.Asking Fluke GB resulted in an offer to send it for repair at >£400. Thanks but no. Socket assemblies on eBay are quite expensive and overseas (adding import duty worries). I found a post from 2016 from @MosherIV in this forum where he got spare parts for his Fluke 187 from a UK company S J Electronicshttp://www.sjelectronics.co.uk/. They still exist and although their website doesn't show any spare parts, I fired of a question using their contact form and this worked! They were very helpful in tracking down the part number needed and the assembly seen in the first picture costs only £8 + VAT +shipping. Highly recommendedRemoving the old one and cleaning the holes turned out to be quite a bit of work (except for the rightmost socket) but solder wick did the jobThe cause of the problem is shown in the 3rd picture. The pins of the socket had sheared-off and judging from the tarnished look of the fraction faces, that must have been some time ago. My guess is that a normal (not a shrouded plug!) in that socket suffered a violent sideways knock, for example when the meter fell and hit the ground with the plug making contact first. That sideways knock simply sheared the connection pins off the PCB. It probably would not have happened with a shrouded plug because the shroud surrounding and supporting the socket would have transferred much of the force to the case. But for a standard 4mm banana plug, the socket is basically a free-standing pipe that is only fixed with the 2 pins at the bottom with no other support. I never thought of this before but it seems many multimeter socket constructions are quite vulnerable for that sort of accident. Good to know.Anyway, fitting the new socket was easy and there are plastic pins and holes in the PCB that ensure it only clips in the right way so that the black COM socket is where it should be.With that relative painless fix, my Fluke 187 is now fully functional
Fluke 189 IN DCV, THE BLUE BUTTON DISPLAYS AC > 1000 V ! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Argiros
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2025, 10:17:07 pm
content: In my Fluke 189 in position everything seems to wortk fine - not professional in a lab checked - but all basic measurements seems to be fine except when I press the blue button in DCV it displays AC voltage with OL and with a thunder left and after a while decendent voltages from 1000 V to 500 V changing continuesly. the suspect maybe is the AC coupling capacitor but i dont know where it is , scematics for this model is disapeared. Opticaly and pokingf around with measuring caps nothing found.Any ideas what to search where ?
Fluke 189 knob and keypad removal - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Laval
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2025, 01:02:32 am
content: Hello everyone,I found a replacement front panel for my Fluke 189 but of course it doesn't come with the knob and the keypad assembly so I need to transfer these parts from my old panel. After looking at it for a few minutes I don't see how to do it. The keypad assembly seems to be held in place by the rotary switch knob assembly but I don't see any obvious way to dismantle this and I don't want to break it. Does anyone have any idea how to do that or know of a useful video (I couldn't find any) ?

author: mwb1100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2025, 01:20:48 am
content: This snippet from a comment in theMr. ModemHead 189 cleanup postmight be some help:Quote from:http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/gallery/fluke-189-clean-up/#comment-147611

author: Laval
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2025, 01:31:20 am
content: Quote from: mwb1100 on March 03, 2025, 01:20:48 amThank you ! I guess I just didn't want to push too hard on this knob

author: mwb1100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2025, 02:36:49 am
content: Good luck - I have never done it myself. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2025, 04:18:12 am
content: be very careful on the contacts springs, they can be damaged, or be lost in space loll
Fluke 189 no power missing component can anyone identify - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: dbaillie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 13, 2023, 01:38:19 am
content: I have a Fluke 189 that won't power up traced it to a component that appears to be missing. Attached a pic from net highlighting missing component in red. I'm thinking that it is either a fuse or inductor can anyone verify what the missing component is and what the specs would beThank you

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2023, 03:03:46 am
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-187189-repair/

author: colourlessgreenideas
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 13, 2023, 05:19:17 am
content: 0.39 uH inductor.
Fluke 189 problems - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rivest
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2022, 07:38:02 pm
content: There are 2 major problems I'm having with my Fluke 189:1. The mode selector switch is off by one. ie the 1st stop is VAC but goes to mVAC, 2nd stop is mVAC but goes to VDC, and so on. The sequence becomes ok after Temp. (the current and logging stuff)I've tried opening and cleaning the contacts with alcohol but it didn't help.2. The readings are all messed in all modes.Is there something I check or do real quick before I send it off to a repair store?

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2022, 05:43:15 pm
content: Has it been zapped by an high voltage spike ?Have you physically checked the dial contacts you have 4 of them if i recallAnd you have to sync the dial hexagonal hole with the function ??
Fluke 189 won't measure VAC, VDC, Ohms, but works for Current - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Trader
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2022, 05:59:43 am
content: This Fluke 189 was stored (without batteries) for roughly 10 years.When I turned it on was beeping with "LEADS" displayed, I cleaned and use a little hot air on the terminals and solved the warning.It's measuring Current perfectly, but other measures (VAC, VDC, Ohms, etc...) don't work.Inside, visually is perfect (wasn't ever open before), and the supercap is like new, with no minimal sign of leaking.Any guess what's the problem and fixing? Thank you.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2022, 05:39:19 pm
content: i would carefully dismantle it to check the dial contacts if they are ok or oxidated, if the pcb traces are clean, no oxydation tooit was stored without the batteries ?? no corroded battery clips ?

author: Trader
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2022, 07:17:51 pm
content: Quote from: coromonadalix on September 02, 2022, 05:39:19 pmTerminal contacts are broken. This one costs almost $40, ouch... no substitutes?

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2022, 12:56:52 am
content: no substitutes you have to put an original one, you have some on Ebay, yess it may be expensive but once repaired it's a very good meter, it's a good investment

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2022, 02:19:43 am
content: If it got dropped or banged around, also check the jack-detect LED+phototransistor did not get trashed, they are fragile too.The input jack assembly seems to be going for around $45 OUCH when you really might need just the metal part.

author: Black Phoenix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2022, 02:47:12 am
content: Quote from: Trader on September 02, 2022, 07:17:51 pmCome on, I know that it costs 40$, but this was the top of the line DMM from Fluke before the 289 and still is preferred by people instead of the 28x line (I own the 289 and would gladly trade it for a 189).Didn't it deserve such?

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2022, 09:17:40 am
content: Tried an 289, bulky, slow ... nada nada ditched it happier with 2x 189 and an Amprobe Am140Finding or having a good 189 with no battery clips corrosion is kinda tough, and mostly having a good enclosure with no broken or cracked screw post(s) is even better

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2022, 06:33:16 pm
content: Quote from: Trader on September 02, 2022, 07:17:51 pmTry this?http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-80-series-jack-assembly-rebuild/
Fluke 189 won't power up - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: RadioNZ
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 01, 2024, 04:23:58 am
content: I have a dead Fluke 189.So far I have determined there is power getting to the LT1307 switching IC, but nothing after that.This suggests the IC is bad.Before I go ordering some, I thought I would ask here in case someone else has encountered this same issue and worked their way through it.

author: jchw4
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2024, 08:44:53 am
content: I shared some high-resolutions photos here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/sick-fluke-89-iv-(fluke-189)/msg3574496/Quote from: RadioNZ on May 01, 2024, 04:23:58 amDid you mean LT1307 ? I cannot read IC mark on your photo, but in my case it was LT1307.Did you check the SHUTDOWN pin?I.e. are you sure the power button works?

author: RadioNZ
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 02, 2024, 04:54:03 am
content: Quote from: jchw4 on May 01, 2024, 08:44:53 amYes sorry, I got the numbers a bit confused. LT1307 - sorted now.The photo I put up was just to reference which IC it is and the relative location.I've done some more testing and the LT1307 is definitely toast.The SHDN pin was sitting at 2.1 volts, but if I connected it to the Vin pin everything started working.
Fluke 189's current leak when turned off - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2024, 01:05:22 pm
content: I recently returned home from a 6-month trip, and when I picked up my Fluke 189, it wouldn't turn on. It turns out the batteries were completely drained (1.02V). This surprised me because I had replaced the batteries with new ones before leaving. Therefore, I believe there is a current leakage in its internal circuit even when the device is off. This doesn't usually happen with my other multimeters (I have the 87V and the 179, and I haven't changed their batteries in 2 years). Has anyone else experienced this problem? Any solutions?

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2024, 01:13:55 pm
content: 189 series have a super capacitor problem, in some cases it may sink more current, you have to open the case to check the supercap state and physically see it its rusted or leakingbecause this one act as a battery for time related functions / loggings,removing it is not a problem for 90% of the functions (not time related)check this first please ...
Fluke 19 meter display repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: agarg_1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 11, 2024, 11:32:55 pm
content: I have a Fluke 19 multimeter with a display that is not working properly..ie.. the digits are half cut off . I proceeded to clean the ribbons and contacts related to the LCD..I did it twice but the digit display is still screwed up. I had done the same procedure for my old Fluke 77 seires II and cleaning the ribbons with alcohol worked right away. What else can I try to fix the display. As I was putting the back cover on I discovered this tiny broken metalic piece on the back of the selector switch.. Where can I get a replacement? How important is it? Would this be related to causing the display issues?

author: Alex_Baker
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2024, 03:39:14 am
content: Not sure how to fix the other problems, but I would wager that the metal contact for the selector switch is important, even if the display worked fine some functions might not work. I doubt those contacts are sold anywhere, but the few meters that I have taken apart used a similar system, so perhaps they could be robbed from another meter?

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2024, 06:05:55 am
content: First, the rotary switch is broken, that leaf needs to be replaced. I wonder if Fluke parts are available.One guy was looking for them here, china keyword is "multimeter schrapnel":https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/dmm-contact-wipers/msg4343059/#msg4343059"Internal turntable For Fluke 187 189 87IV 789 725 internal rotary table gear switch with shrapnel internal rotary button"Only ripoff pricing here, you could contact the store thoughhttps://aliexpress.com/store/3512080/pages/all-items.htmlThe LCD zebra strips might be squished, or I frequently find the PC board is just warped due to the compression forces and that causes bad connections to an LCD.

author: BlownUpCapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2024, 10:59:26 pm
content: The metal bit is very important as that is what selects the modes. You can try soldering it back together or making your down.For the display problem, try getting new zebra strips.

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2024, 08:02:53 am
content: Forget about soldering a spring contact.Either you are able to dremel a replacement from suitable spring brass or you look for a commercial one…
Fluke 19 Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: benk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 05, 2019, 12:24:53 pm
content: Hey all,Hoping someone can point me in the right direction, Turned my trusty Fluke 19 on today whilst working on a project, after a few bum steers it turns out the DC Voltage input on the meter stopped reading, along with the resistance setting.SymptomsNo DC reading, floating voltage when not connected, OL reading when connected to voltage sourceIn Ohms mode, OL when not connected, Flickering OL when leads shorted togetherI pulled it apart and check the usual R1 fusable resistor but that was reading 1k. AC voltage reading works ok. I cant seem to find a schematic or service manual on the netDoes anyone have any suggestions on where to check next?Cheers
Fluke 1911A multi-counter not working - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Helios
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 15, 2020, 08:59:53 pm
content: I am currently trying to repair a Fluke 1911A and I am pretty stuck.When turning the device on, no matter what I do, no digits get displayed and only the overflow led is on. I tried using the troubleshooting flow chart but is was without much success (..send to nearest service center..).Has anyone ever had a similar problem with a fluke counter and can help me out a little?

author: wn1fju
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2020, 11:18:35 pm
content: Does your 1911A have the battery option? If so, the batteries need to be installed, even if you are running it off of AC. In fact, check the -12V out of the inverter.I actually got two of these units in an eBay purchase. One was completely inoperative and the fault was isolated to one of the custom controller chips (U6, or U7, I can't remember which). It was easy to isolate because I could switch the chips between units and watch the fault follow. I know that's not particularly helpful in your case, but it is a warning that the custom chips can die - and that's pretty much the end of the story.I would not spend any time, effort, or especially money, trying to fix the 1911A. It is, in my opinion, not a very good counter. I would look around for something else. There are cheap new Chinese models and lots of used (and perhaps broken) HP models for well under $100. Fluke was not known for their counters, although the later ones made with Phillips aren't too bad.

author: Helios
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 16, 2020, 12:35:59 pm
content: It is the version without the batteries. TP-2 is at -12V. I will try to do some measurements and check if it could be U6 or U7.Thanks for the advice! I got the unit basically for free so no big loss, still would be nice to get it working.
Fluke 192 - problem with oscilloscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Rariusz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 05, 2017, 01:22:02 pm
content: Hello,I have Fluke 192 oscilloscope and I have problem with oscilloscope.More specifically, multimeter work but oscilloscope does not work.Did anyone have a similar problem and can help me solve the problem?Best,Rariusz

author: welpester
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2017, 01:25:45 pm
content: HiI do not have that meter, but i think you must give more information so someone could help you.-welpester

author: Rariusz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 05, 2017, 01:40:47 pm
content: Hi,Ok, Using my fluke 192 i can measure for example voltage and also the rest of parameters however I cannot see the waveforms on oscilloscope.In oscilloscope the waveforms is zero.Best,

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2017, 02:07:21 pm
content: Do the probe calibration, any waveform?

author: welpester
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2017, 06:38:25 pm
content: Service manual:http://assets.fluke.com/manuals/192B____smeng0100.pdfProbably silly question, but is probe the and coupling set correctly?-welpester

author: PA4TIM
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2017, 07:25:10 pm
content: How did is stopped working ? What did you do to it ?The channels are isolated from each other so if you did not blew up the first channel and then the second, the channel asics will be good. The fault will then be where both channels use the same circuit.Connect a test signal to a channel and follow it with a scope until it disappears. It goes to the channel asic, via an opto and transformer to the Sample-asic. From there to the ADC and then to the Digital Asic. But the latter controls the rest so lot of chances to run around in circles.Be careful with the display and backlight connectors and flatcables because you need to "split" the case and measure on both sides of the PCB and turn pcb and display/front-case at the same time without damaging the connections.They are a pain in the @#$ to repair, the D-asic is often a bga and the asics are expensive.

author: radioorizont
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2021, 09:51:42 pm
content: Hi,Did you ever fix that problem?I have a Fluke 199c with exactly the same problem, the multimeter works but not the 1 or 2 oscilloscope channels, no waveform displayed at allThanks.

author: EHT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2021, 02:08:46 pm
content: The service manual has quite extensive description and schematics. Hopefully you have another meter & scope to investigate it...Maybe check all the power first. Ch A, B Scope and Meter are separate isolated input unit circuits

author: radioorizont
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2021, 05:53:24 pm
content: Apparently the channel Asic OQ0260 seems to be a common point of failure on these scopes and near impossible to source.Fluke are asking in excess of $200 for one, that is if they will agree to sell it to you.
Fluke 192 scopemeter ribbon lcd  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rauldm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2022, 05:35:55 am
content: Hi, I have a Fluke 192, is a old scope but works fine, it has damaged ribbon LCD, hasn't unsoldered, is just chopped in three lines, someone know where I can found it?Regards.
Fluke 196C - only powers on with battery disconnected - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: llopness
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 26, 2025, 02:01:08 pm
content: I have a Fluke 196C.it will not power on properly with the battery connected. can get it to beep and sometimes screen flash.only way to get it to power on is to disconnect the battery before powering on.needs to have the battery in shortly before powering on.scopemeter charges to battery to 8.5 V(too high?)

author: Ugur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2025, 08:31:26 am
content: If the battery is faulty or dead, this is normal. A new battery will fix the problem.

author: llopness
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 27, 2025, 12:09:46 pm
content: Quote from: Ugur on August 27, 2025, 08:31:26 amYEP. it was a shitty battery. swapped it with the one in my 192 and the 192 wouldn't boot and the 196C would boot on battery.I also had a bad power jack. it's currently hardwired to the power adapter.Has anyone found a decent replacement for the $85 fluke jack. I have two power supplies with shitty/soldered back together plugs so replacing the plug at the same time works.

author: Ugur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 10:17:03 am
content: Yo have to do some detailed research on sites like Digikey or eBay etc.I did not do any research beforehand because I did not need it.