Problem soldering Binding Posts -Need Help- - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: SH@RK
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2011, 10:50:58 am
content: HiI want to solder Binding Posts with wires but I could not do that .They do not stick with the solder and the solder become balls and fall on the table .I want to solder them because I am converting computer power supply to DC power supply like in this video .He soldered them in one touch at 8:40 .I do not know why I can not do it ?I already watchedEEVblog #183 - Soldering Tutorial Part 1EEVblog #183 - Soldering Tutorial Part 2EEVblog #186 - Soldering Tutorial Part 3And watched other tutorials on youtube .I am thinking that the problem is in my tools and here is the list .============================1:- SolderI have tow typesFirstThe best and smallest diameter in our marketsecond============================2:- Solder IronVery old one no less than 6 years but working will specially in desoldering .Direct to main============================3:-Solder pasteThe only thing I found in our market cost $ .I do not know how to use it the perfect way .============================So what do u think the problem is ?Thanks

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2011, 11:31:05 am
content: I'm not sure if this is the problem you're having but sometimes with terminals/connectors they are intended for a metal fork or ring terminal crimp rather than soldering directly.Usually when i come across something like this i just grind the metal using a file and remove the coating that's preventing solder from sticking.They usually solder fine after that. Just make sure you use some flux and get the metal up to soldering temperature.Or you can use a crimp terminal and solder/crimp that to the wire instead.

author: ejeffrey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2011, 12:53:23 pm
content: Make sure to wrap the wire tightly around the pin before soldering. You should have good mechanical contact before soldering if at all possible. Then, make sure you are applying heat to the connector/wire, not to the solder, useing the flat side of a wedge tip. You may melt a bit of solder into the contact point to improve thermal conductivity, but you must get the binding post hot enough to melt solder on its own -- otherwise even if you get a joint that looks OK, the solder will not have stuck to the metal properly.I think it is very likely that your iron is underpowered. Those pencil irons that plug into the wall typically low powered. They can reach operating temperature no problem, and they can solder thin wires and pins, but when you try to solder a larger chunk of metal it conducts the heat away too fast, and it cools down. You really want a temperature regulated iron that will turn up the power as the load changes. That isn't to say it is impossible with the iron you have, but it isn't surprising that you are having trouble.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2011, 01:11:07 pm
content: Are you tinning the wires and post separately before you try to solder them together as in the video at 8:40? Later in the video you see him tin (pre solder) a group of wires twisted together before he solders them together.Binding posts take more time to heat up than a small wire. You have to wait a little bit for the post to get to soldering temperature. Solder will always ball up on a part that is not hot enough.Use some steel wool, abrasive pot scrubbing pad, or fine sandpaper to clean the binding posts where you are going to solder, they may have some manufacturing residue that will prevent the solder or flux from wetting.Use a cleaned and well tinned tip. The picture of your iron tip looks pretty oxidized Dip your tip right in the flux and add some solder to it. You should get a bright shiny coating of solder over the tip. If not you need to clean and re-tin until you do or replace the tip. You cant get good heat transfer with a cruddy tip. Also if you have a choice in tip style use a screwdriver shaped bit like Dave showed. The flat surface of the tip will allow better heat flow into the work.

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2011, 05:18:46 pm
content: Kinda hard to describe how to solder in words.Soldering needs the parts to reach molten solder temperature and flux to chemically remove any oxide layer from the parts. The flux is in the solder wire core and is only chemically active when heated.It can be hard to get the parts to soldering temperature when you only have point contact between the iron bit and the part, once the solder wets the part you get much better thermal contact through the solder. Feed solder onto the part not the bit, if it doesn't melt the part isn't getting hot enough.The paste you have isn't flux, it is chemically inactive grease which can just about stand soldering temperatures. It can provide a barrier between the solder/parts and air which helps prevent further oxidisation and isn't very useful for most soldering jobs. An additional source of flux is more helpful for difficult solder jobs. You can also try to mechanically remove oxide prior to soldering by rubbing or scraping the part.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2011, 05:40:06 pm
content: Here is what I did with some very similar binding posts:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=4541.msg60384#msg60384As you can see, I crimped wires to ring terminals, and then fastened the terminals to the binding posts with the nuts provided. Lastly I covered the connection with hot glue to prevent the nuts unscrewing.

author: phil_jp1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2011, 10:15:46 pm
content: Quote from: SH@RK on December 13, 2011, 10:50:58 amBefore I soldered wires to those connectors in the video, I applied some solder onto connectors.Prior to soldering wire to the connectors do this:0. Preheat iron to about 350-400 degrees C. And use the biggest tip you have.1. Apply some active flux to the connectors.2. Apply a little bit of solder to the soldering iron tip to make good thermal contact.3. Heat up the connector (don't overdo it, or you'll end up with melted connector)4. When connector is heated up, apply some solder to it. At this point it should evenly cover entire area you need to solder wire to.5. Take away soldering iron, let the connectors to cool off.6. It's better to clean the connectors with some rubbing alcohol, to wash away an active flux.7. (optional) Heat up the wire and apply some solder to it. You can use some flux for that.8. Apply a lot of solder to iron tip and solder wire to the connector. (if wire is not so thick, you can wrap it around the connector)!!!Don't heat connectors for too long!!!Or you'll end up with melted connectors!!!Or, as IanB said:Quote from: IanB on December 13, 2011, 05:40:06 pm- Phil

author: SH@RK
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2011, 12:39:04 am
content: Thank u AllI am going to try all what u wrote and tell u the results .See u later .

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2012, 10:53:40 pm
content: Stainless steel posts is the most likely. I have been in the metal fabrication bus sines for 30 odd years and have never found a truly satisfactory way to solder st/st with lead solder, silver solder will do it but at that temp. you will melt the copper wire.

author: Ajahn Lambda
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2012, 12:06:11 am
content: Quote from: G7PSK on January 04, 2012, 10:53:40 pmAgreed. Even if it appears to wet correctly, the joint will most likely not last, let alone have high conductivity.The only thing I've ever used that seemed to work 'okay' for stainless was Ruby Fluid, a zinc-chloride acid flux. A few guys have said mixing it with hydrochloric (a.k.a. muriatic) acid helps too, but that's more of an etchant than a flux. It should go without saying that this type of flux is non-ideal for electrical connections, and that it should be cleansed thoroughly after soldering. Even then it may cause corrosion of the copper over time.As much as I hate them, crimp eyelet connectors are the way to go here.EDIT: Oops, I just now observed that this thread is from mid-December. Sorry all!

author: benemorius
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2012, 03:27:27 am
content: Quote from: SigEpBlue on January 05, 2012, 12:06:11 amDON'T apologize for adding useful, on-topic information to a thread no matter how old it is. Let the people complain, for they do not understand the concept of searching.DO contact a forum admin and raise hell if you ever see a thread become locked merely because it is old. If that thread contains an unanswered question, raise at least three times as much hell.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2012, 04:25:09 am
content: For stainless or anything that won't wet with regular electronic fluxes (except aluminum) Stay Brite kit flux and solderhttp://www.stoodyind.com/Catalogs/FISC/05catpg372.pdfjust google "stay brite kit" to find places to buy it. I have used this for years and it is excellent stuff. The flux is corrosive so you don't want to use it on anything that cannot be rinsed off to remove the flux residue (Like stranded wire). You could use this to tin a stainless part where you need to solder to then rinse it off and then use electronic solder and flux to solder to the tinned area. AFAIK this is the strongest low temp (430degF) silver solder available (14000 PSI shear strength). It says to not use it for electronic use but I am sure that is strictly because of the corrosive acidic flux. As long as you can remove or neutralize the flux it will fine for electronic use. I use it in mechanical applications also where I need high strength but need the low temp to not soften hardened steel parts. The lowest brazing alloys that I use start at 1205degF which is too high for hardened steel parts. (unless they are high speed steels)