hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
How to find "high reliability signal switches" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2022, 05:23:10 am
content: My google searches are failing, presumably because I don't know what key words to use.I'm looking for simple finger operated toggle switches for use in low level signal circuits, for example a guitar pickup or alarm sensor loop, where there is not enough voltage/current to provide a self cleaning action.Are sealed magnetic reed switches or mercury tilt switches the only options?

author: Warpspeed
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2022, 06:08:37 am
content: You are on the right track.Mercury wetted contacts are good, but these days they will make Gretta and the environmental mafia very angry.Vacuum reed relays were sometimes used in high quality older professional test equipment for reliable low level signal switching.The traditional way to solve the problem of oxidation and contamination for high reliability and low noise are the use of gold contacts. Many commercial relays still use a very thin gold flashing on contacts. These work fine for low level switching, but if used even once to switch dc or ac power, the extremely thin gold plating is instantly destroyed. Then the relays are still perfectly usable to continue switching power, but become useless for critical low level switching.In this day and age, its all now done electronically by turning mosfets on and off in the signal path. No problem using a mechanical switch contacts to switch on and off the dc voltage used to turn on the mosfet. But its the mosfet not the mechanical switch that handles the low amplitude ac or dc signal.Try looking for toggle switches that have "gold flashed" or "gold plated" switch contacts. A switch might be rated for switching high voltage and current, but should be usable for low level signal switching, provided the switch is brand new and has never been previously used.

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2022, 11:18:01 pm
content: Your other option is any gold plated switch contact so long as it has not been used to switch higher level of current which will cause pitting of contact surfaces and immediately damage gold plating thus rendering the switch inappropriate to Your needs.

author: loki42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2022, 12:52:06 am
content: Lehle make some popular oneshttps://www.lehle-components.com/switch
Manual Pump Solder Sucker Tip Replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bostonman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2022, 02:40:13 am
content: I have a blue manual pump solder sucker which uses these tips:https://www.tequipment.net/Edsyn/SRT12/Soldering-Accessories/?Source=googleshopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIosyB4eGV-gIVAszICh3S8A6KEAQYAiABEgIiufD_BwEDoes anyone know if these are cheaper anywhere else? So far I haven't found any cheaper ones, but, I also plan to buy a Hakko solder sucker at some point.These manual pump ones are quite nice as I've used them for years, but now I need tips which seem costly.

author: SMTech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2022, 10:46:32 am
content: We've tried loads of manual desolder pumps over the years and have always ended up gravitating back to the green 587 chap, tips about the same money.

author: bostonman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2022, 03:23:09 pm
content: Where are the 587s?I looked and didn't see any links

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2022, 03:28:59 pm
content: I think this is it:https://www.newark.com/miller-abeco/green-587/desoldering-gun/dp/06WX0812

author: bostonman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2022, 03:37:02 pm
content: Oh, you're talking the whole thing.I don't have experience with any others except my blue one. it does clog easily and require constant attention, but it has saved me during various projects.As mentioned, I plan to spring for a Hakko (sp?) at some point, but also want new tips for this one should I have a need for it (as I have many times).
Metcal BGA  Rework Station BGA-3592   find  software - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lijianwei652@gmail.com
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 10, 2022, 03:22:26 pm
content: I have a Metal BGA rework station model: BGA-3592 BGA-3102,But I can't find his software, can anyone help? My spoken English is not good, thank you so much!my email:lijianwei652@gmail.com
IP65 Plastic vs Alu. enclosure and condensation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: hcglitte
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2022, 05:57:53 pm
content: Hi,I currently use an IP65 plastic enclosure for my product with a membrane ventilator installed.The product is taken out/in from cold/warm to warm/cold environments (cold=below freezing temp).Currently there has been no issues with moisture building up inside and condensation.I am currently thinking about moving to a custom CNC machined IP65/67 aluminium enclosure.My worries is that the aluminium may cause condensation inside.I have read that plastic enclosures provide better heat insulation than metal enclosures, and with lower heating capacity.This means that when air temperature changes quickly, plastic enclosures adapt faster, which in turn means less condensation.I was wondering if anybody has experienced that alu enclosures have caused more faults than plastic in this respect.

author: Jackster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2022, 06:37:20 pm
content: Not an expert in this field but have designed product housings for my own stuff. Here is what I know from research.Plastic has a much lower thermal conductivity and thus will transfer heat a lot slower than (raw) aluminium.We are talking orders of magnitude of a difference with plastics around 0.02-0.05 W/mK vs aluminium which is 204 W/mK.This is for direct contact temperature changes though. Air will transmit heat a bit less depending on a few factors.IR is another thing to consider. Plastics (some if not all) will absorb and radiate it more than uncoated metal. (someone please confirm/correct this if this is wrong)Your membrane vent should prevent any large buildup of moisture inside the enclosure. That is one of their primary purposes after all.If it fails to do this, you might not have a large enough vent hole in the housing or not enough vent holes that would allow the air to pass through.Quote from: hcglitte on September 09, 2022, 05:57:53 pmIf it ain't broke don't fix it?Personally, I would go on eBay and pick up an aluminium project box, some moisture sensors and an Arduino and test it in a real-world environment.Install one or more vents in it and see what happens. Do it with the plastic box at the same time ideally so you only have a single variable, that being the case material.If moisture is of high concern and you want extra protection, consider conformally coating any PCBs and exposed wiring inside the case.This way if moisture does build up and due to temperature change you hit due point, you are better protected.
LCSC screen-printed PVC and acrylic panel service - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: I wanted a rude username
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2021, 07:09:30 am
content: gamalot reportsthat LCSC have launched an acrylic and PVC panel printing service, intended for electronics UIs.Here's LCSC's announcement, in Chinese.The technology is screen-printed PVC or acrylic. Six acrylic thickness options between 0.8 and 3.0 mm, with options for reverse-side printing, transparent areas, and adhesive. Panels are cut out as required from 300 x 200 mm sheets, up to 10 panels per sheet. Price is 25 - 45 RMB/sheet, depending on options.Currently this is onlyavailable on LCSC's Chinese site, and the maximum volume is 30 panels.

author: Frddy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 08, 2022, 06:29:44 pm
content: Hey, interesting link. Here is some more discussion in chinese:http://club.szlcsc.com/article/details_48772_1.htmlAny luck using this service ? or know of any good alternatives for acrylic panels ?I did find JRPanelhttps://www.jrpanel.com/panel/acrylicbuy/which, per the site, is clearly internationally aimed but probably a fair bit more expensive than LCSC's service. Other than that I didn't really find any services aimed at prototyping amounts (minimum). Perhaps people approach aliexpress sellers / alibaba sellers directly for custom panels ?I might try and order at LSCS via an intermediate shipping agent. Anyway, on that szlcsc forum there are a good number of pictures!.

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2022, 08:25:06 pm
content: Vital Presentation Concepts in the US used to make a photo-imageable film for laminated panel overlays that I used. They no longer make this, but have a film that you print on an inkjet printer and then laminate to a double-sticky vinyl sheet. This should work for instrument panel overlays, even with LEDs that shine through the overlay, but I'm a bit worried about long-term stability of the inket inks under indoor fluorescent lighting.Any comments?Jon

author: Jackster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2022, 09:47:11 pm
content: Ah, this is great. Have a project coming up soon that needs something like this.Any ideas when we Westerners will get access to it?
Recommended solder paste 63/37 viscous (not just flux, the paste+flux mix) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wb0gaz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2022, 04:50:35 pm
content: I'm having difficulty holding keeping position of SMD part (LQFP48 in this case) properly over the PCB pads before hot air soldering. I'm using 63/37 solder paste from unknown chinese source. Symptom is that the paste's flux seems to be very thin, so the part slides around too easily while making small adjustments to get the part centered on it's pads. I suspect the solder paste itself may make this difficult. I'm using a small stencil from proto-advantage, which seems itself to be working OK.I'm looking for a slightly viscous or "tacky" solder paste (63/37) - preferably sourced in US - perhaps a little more viscous flux than what I have described above.Thanks for any advice (particularly supplier or description).

author: onsenwombat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2022, 02:19:05 am
content: Not sure if this is of any value, but I'd presume any suitable paste type (no-clean / water soluble) for your needs from the chemistry perspective from any major manufacturer, e.g. Alpha / Indium / Kester etc. should be fine when it comes to their tackiness. Certainly more expensive than your no-name lord-knows-what Chinese stuff, but at least the components appear to stay in place well enough in factories running these proper brands.

author: wb0gaz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2022, 03:16:21 am
content: Thank you - I appreciate the suggestion and will see what I can find in terms of small quantity purchase.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2022, 06:14:23 pm
content: Digi-Key sells a bunch of 63/37 solder pastes. They’ve got 19 no-clean ones in stock right now.I would probably choose something other than the “smooth flow” series from chip-quik: the smooth-flow stuff really is smooth, but it’s less viscous, so not what you want.Note also that pastes in jars are often blended a bit “drier” (higher metal content = lower flux content) than the ones in syringes (even if they have the same model number!). So you might prefer a jar.
Hakko FR811-SET  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2022, 09:55:27 pm
content: Hello, my boss considers buying a SMD/QFN/BGA rework station about 5000-8000USD. He likes theHakko FR811-SET.Is it a good rework station? It would be used for small QFN mainly.https://www.tequipment.net/Hakko/FR811-SET/Desoldering-Equipment/Rework-Stations/The camera included is rather basic. 0,3Mpix.https://hakkousa.com/999-267-vision-kit.htmlhttps://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr811.htmlhttps://youtu.be/UCSGVIZ34BQAre there some other rework stations in this price range? Ersa maybe? Quick?Or PACE IR1000?https://paceworldwide.com/ir1000-infrared-bga-smt-rework-station

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2022, 10:01:24 pm
content: Now I have a JBC AM hot air station (and more) and a JBC preheater. Probably the JBC PHS-2KB.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2022, 10:04:18 pm
content: I would like to have a professional equipment (not only) for AD9912 and AD9102B rework...Any opinion on this company?https://www.martin-smt.de/rework/

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2022, 01:31:08 am
content: Hakko's rail system looks nice, wonder how much is plastic?

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2022, 10:03:29 pm
content: I solder my QFN ICs almost like this.I do not use a solder paste

author: vstrulev
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2022, 11:46:21 pm
content: Quote from: Hydrawerk on May 23, 2022, 09:55:27 pmJust my two cents. I had the Aoyue AO866 for few years and used it a lot. $200. Was very reliable for me. For such a price, you may buy few of them and keep it in your shop. Just my two cents.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2022, 02:44:11 pm
content: I think that my JBC AM hot air station (and more) and a JBC preheater are not worse than Aoyue AO866. But you have to hold the hot air tool in your hand.
Is it possible to spin coat solder mask? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Joebeazelman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2022, 10:28:39 pm
content: I've been thinking about making my own PCBs for the experience and to shorten the turn around time. My research, however, tells me I should lower my expectations in the final result, name the pitch, number of sides, silk screened legends and solder mask. I can do without most of these given my needs and constraints, but solder mask, however, is necessary for SMD components. Liquid solder masks are cheap, but difficult to apply in a satisfactory manner. It almost always comes out uneven and blotchy. The film masks such as Dynamask are easier, but is significantly more expensive. I also have a large amount of liquid solder mask from board repairs I need to use up.Has anyone tried spin coating the solder mask? The process is often used to apply photoresist to copper, so it's conceivable it could work doe solder mask.

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2022, 10:39:43 pm
content: I'd agree that solder mask is necessary for production boards for flow-soldering. But for hand-soldered prototypes, I'd say it's not necessary.

author: Mark
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2022, 09:53:38 am
content: I normally use the dry film, but I have used liquid photoresist with Papermania - Acrylic Blocks. Apply a drop of photoresist, then a thin layer of acetate sheet, then apply force with the thick Acrylic Block. That way you can see that the photoresist is evenly spread.
Are hand-held IRDA welders any good for SMT? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rf-fil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2022, 06:41:18 am
content: Hot air is sometimes a bit rough when I just want to rework one part. I've found IRDA welders on ebay that seem to have a hand-held "wand" with an IR bulb that should be able to heat up a small area. Has anyone tried these for SMT re-work?

author: JayGunn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 07, 2022, 12:38:38 am
content: I have the IRDA welder set of T8120/T835. I have used it for new reflow of small boards (1"-2") and it works okay, although it's not easy to give every part of a 1" x 1.5" board a perfectly even soak. Although it does do the job I have moved to a used T962C oven which I think will end up taking its place.But for repair/replacement I think this is just the right thing. Whereas with hot air you can't help heating up adjacent components, with IR you just cut a SO-8 or SOT23-size port in a scrap of aluminum foil and you can really heat just the part you care about.Fron 2" or more above the board it heats very gradually, and the center of the beam is a lot hotter than near the edges, so you would want to keep it moving steadily. From 3/4" above the board it heats very fast; that's why it's a natural for repairs and a less ideal for whole boards.Hope this helps.BTW this is only the 2nd topic I have posted on here--serious newbie. If I convert to the T962C, my IRDA welder will be for sale at a good price. PM me if you want to be notified.https://www.ebay.com/itm/403773841431?hash=item5e02cbe017:g:1bgAAOSwT-lZmrcQ&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoAUAs0DHgPUSIbcryD%2BmLVdYK2gAM5CAXt43seO661bIkWXKteghxkhY%2BVZLtaH0oOJVzkUfIokVHZN2qA5bKgDkaxYV2AzaRZvXaIK4ZKumq0aXgyWEZC1kJoxSzoqFmry31D52aOqqQq%2BUSLXOq4fg6cReRvCu%2F4pxsROdQs3txMwmWNpX%2BOrWABGFKhTjbqdiyPPH7PVWkr1%2FcooUiwg%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4ClxP31YA

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2022, 09:30:39 pm
content: Quote from: rf-fil on August 08, 2022, 06:41:18 amCan you show a photo or explain in what case its a bit rough? You can kapton tape or aluminum foil surrounding areas if you don't want them to be heated as much.There are also small nozzles available.One issue I've read with the IR wands, is that temperature can get very hot quickly (which is why they show a thermocouple attached to the IC). With hot air, at least the set temperature of the air shouldn't be exceeded in most cases.
Lead free solder balls - why so hard to find? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TomS_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2022, 10:51:09 am
content: Hi all.Looking at reballing a couple of small BGAs, and they will be used on a board where the rest of the solder is lead free (its a personal project).But trying to find lead free solder balls seems like an impossible task.I'd like to use lead free because Ive heard that mixing leaded and unleaded solder is bad.Should I just reball with leaded balls, or should I just keep looking? I have found some souces of lead free balls but they are all in much bigger quantities and thus prices than I was really looking to spend. Leaded just seems so much more prevalent and available in smaller qty's.Thanks!

author: mon2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2022, 12:06:43 pm
content: IMHO, you are overthinking this. Check Aliexpress. It is very common to mix low temp solder paste on ROHS boards for repairs - many videos on this topic on youtube - check Louis Rossmann repair videos for macbooks, etc.Consider to buy lead free solder paste and a stencil to support your component (BGA ?) with the ball size and pitch to suit. Again, Aliexpress should offer these or you can design your own with jlcpcb which are quite inexpensive.

author: TomS_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2022, 05:18:05 pm
content: Ive designed plenty of boards and use JLCPCB to produce them, so that is not so much the issue. The issue was mixing different solder alloys, or rather avoiding doing so, since I already use lead free solder paste.But after a bit more research and looking around I found some not too unreasonably sized/priced bottles of solder balls on DigiKey and have ordered them.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2022, 08:03:37 pm
content: Just use your paste and a stencil. You really don't need discrete balls.

author: TomS_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2022, 10:29:26 pm
content: I tried this also. Maybe the stencils are not the best for the job, or maybe I need more practice, but the result wasnt great.
How to cut Rogers ceramic laminates copper clad - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: matthuszagh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2022, 04:20:10 pm
content: I ordered some RO4350B copper clad in 12x18" panels, which I plan to cut down to 4x6". There are several ways to cut FR4 copper clad. One common way is to score both sides with a knife and then bend it in a vise. Another is to use a wet tile saw, and there are others as well. Will these same methods work on RO4350B, or will I need to use another method?

author: G0HZU
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2022, 07:24:54 pm
content: A PCB guillotine is probably the best thing to use. Note that Rogers 4000 and 4350 is even more abrasive than FR4 so it wears out cutting tools quicker.How thick is the material? I've never tried the scoring and snapping method but that isn't something I'd want to try with Rogers material unless I knew it was going to work. There is the risk the material will fray/fragment at the edges if you do this. This material is very expensive so mistakes will be costly. At work I would use a guillotine for the stuff you want to do.

author: matthuszagh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2022, 09:20:40 pm
content: I bought 3 different varieties: 10, 20 and 30 mil, though I expect I’ll probably use the thinnest variety the most often.Anything to look for in a guillotine? I found this:https://www.tme.com/us/en-us/details/wf6937000/repair-and-construction-tools/wolfcraft/6937000/?brutto=1&currency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjwsMGYBhAEEiwAGUXJaSlumsD6-cfuO3Na8Fw05aio6SpTAZNxS4ygZY6ZR2gWqL3FIx35uxoCrEMQAvD_BwE] https://www.tme.com/us/en-us/details/wf6937000/repair-and-construction-tools/wolfcraft/6937000/?brutto=1&currency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjwsMGYBhAEEiwAGUXJaSlumsD6-cfuO3Na8Fw05aio6SpTAZNxS4ygZY6ZR2gWqL3FIx35uxoCrEMQAvD_BwE. Price looks great but I expect it’s a bit too good to be true. I expect a proper guillotine may be out of my budget. At least bought new.
Looking for SMT line Cooler and Laser marker - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fire Doger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2022, 07:04:33 pm
content: Hello, I am looking for 2 machines for smt assembly line.1. A FIFO buffer or cooler after the reflow oven. Now after the oven we got an AOI but fumes from hot boards will stuck on the lenses overtime. I need something to drop them to room temperature before AOI.2. A laser marker to be placed at the start of the line or a benchtop one. The target is to engrave a unique QR code on each board for traceability.I am just collecting available brands and models now to present them to my boss.Some of what I found and think that they fit perfectly are:Buffer + CoolerCooler ConveyorLaserallsmt.de has also different types of buffers, I guess a FIFO will do the job likethisIf you know any other manufacturer with something similar I would appreciate it.Thank you
LCSC BOM Importing and Updating - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gnuarm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2022, 11:01:37 pm
content: I'm thinking of using LCSC to run a respin of a board on the cheap. If it turns out they are really low cost, I might try some production runs with them, but I'm pretty happy with my current CM who also does the testing and shipping.So, I took the existing BOM and uploaded it to LCSC. It had some issues that were fixed with some quotation marks. Now it reports tons and tons of components either discontinued (maybe only at LCSC), out of stock, and a very few in stock. They have a feature where they offer you (more or often less) reasonable substitutions. I find they are trying to match unimportant details (like packaging) and miss important things like capacitor values.Using their usual search feature, I can find good replacements that are in stock. What I can't find, is a way to update them into the BOM without editing it on my machine and uploading it again. This seems like a fair amount of work.Am I missing an easy way to update a given item in the BOM with a specific part, other than what they offer? Or am I stuck with editing and reuploading many times? It just seems that given this is a way to promote using their service and devices, they would have been on top of this particular need.

author: retiredfeline
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2022, 12:58:16 am
content: I think their web workflow isn't designed for trial-and-error BOM updating, only for the odd correction or two. Couldn't you find out the right Cnnnn part replacements and batch edit your CSV BOM with a text editor?

author: gnuarm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2022, 01:46:13 am
content: Quote from: retiredfeline on September 19, 2022, 12:58:16 amSure, but I have to do a process of carefully updating all the info in the spread sheet, item by item, then eventually upload it at the end. Compare that to finding the part you want in LCSC, and clicking the button to update that item in the BOM... done. They do this for theirverypoor recommendations list, but no self search and selection.This would not be such a problem, but hardly any of my parts are coming up as available. So around 80% of the parts have to be replaced this way. This is when a shortcut feature is useful.There are aLOTof parts in their data base that aren't in stock, I'm talking about passives. I thought they were not so impacted by the shortage, but I guess that's not right.
Renishaw optical linear encoder adjustment rgh24 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: loki42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2022, 01:51:12 pm
content: I've got a MPM stencil printer that was losing tracking of where the camera module was. I cleaned the track of the encoder with a lint free wipe and noticed that the right encoder had a green light but the left always was red. I assumed from the manual that it might be out of height / alignment. So I attempted to adjust it's height to the recommend 0.8mm a now get a different error that it just says failed to zero and doesn't move that axis at all. I assume I've not got the adjustment right but I'm not sure how. Anyone got any advice?

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2022, 08:23:18 pm
content: Renishaw scales are a fine piece o kit.They rely on optical path for positional sensing and magnetic proximity for INDEX or ZERO sensing ( end of travel references).Use a feeler gauge to set optical path to specified clearance.Bring the machine to zero position manually, disable motor drive, observe the tell tale LED on the sensing head. Adjust the position of the magnet to achieve INDEX or zero sensing and that should see you right.Before You do get on with the adjustment having cleaned the optical tape also clean the sensor aperture.Note the tape should not be cleaned using strokes along the length the correct method is to use strokes across the tape,width wise.

author: loki42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2022, 02:56:11 pm
content: Cleaning the sensor was the important bit I missed here. Thanks! It had a hair stuck to it... I have cleaned it and it now works fine.

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2022, 08:31:18 pm
content: No worries.
WLCSP breakout - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: stuartlea
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 26, 2022, 09:00:41 am
content: Hi,I'm looking to play with a great ADC from Analog AD4130-8 that only comes in WLCSP package. Yes, I've got the eval board but want to play with it before I put it on a board and also want to test if I can successfully solder it before I try on my board....Any help would be appreciated. 35 pin (7x5) 0.4mm pitchRegards,Stu

author: mon2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2022, 02:50:45 pm
content: 0.4mm ball pitch is quite common these days. Source any existing PCB with this many or more PCB pads to test your soldering skills.With this density, your PCB layout will have to use via-in-pad services = HDI PCB design. We have done with this with success for the ICE40-UL1K (16 ball FPGA). The prices vary a great deal across Asia for HDI PCBs. Had offers from 650 USD to 1800 USD for the same set of files. The lowest offer was from a shop that claimed they do this all the time so it is not a special request.
component placment for automated assebly - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bragma
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 16, 2022, 01:26:47 pm
content: I’ve been using JLCPCB assembly service. Also using Kicad.For component placement with a non-symmetrical part should the position file represent the center of the copper or the center of the part?For example, I have a slide switch with a footprint that looks like the attached.The part placement image from JLCPCB looks to be slightly shifted for this one component. I drew the footprint as the datasheet shows with my center at the tip of the red arrow. But I'm wondering if I need to shift the footprint so the center is at the middle of the copper, about where my green arrow is.Thanks!

author: 48X24X48X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2022, 01:15:48 am
content: After owning a P&P machine, I started to redraw my PCB footprint center to be based on the copper pads rather than the center of the overall dimensions. The vision system uses the contrast of these pads to find the outer edge of the components and then calculate the center from that.

author: vstrulev
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2022, 12:05:07 am
content: Quote from: bragma on April 16, 2022, 01:26:47 pmI absolutelly agree with 48X24X48X and I consider myself one of his students, even if he dos not know me, as I learn how to operate my machine from him as a main source. Even if you don't, you may adjust the center in the PNP software and propagate the change to all pcbs in your panel in few seconds. Then machine will still look at the component center, but will place it to the new coordinates. The assembly house will not even bother to ask you to modify. 48X24X48X xie xie ;-)
Hard Time soldering Mems I2S mic SPH0645 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: manu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 10:58:45 am
content: Hello,I am having a hard time making these SPH0645 I2S mic working.I am soldering them with a hot air soldering station but the result is about 25 to 30% non functionnal when testing.I am wondering if mems are different in handling or if I destroy them by mistake. Any advice would be appreciated.Manu

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 11:06:35 am
content: They can be killed very easily. A bit of overheating - it's dead. A bit of flux got into a hole - it's dead. I would not even try soldering these with by hot air washout preheating from underneath.

author: manu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 11:09:28 am
content: So, does it mean my only option is solder paste and hot plate?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 11:13:58 am
content: Not the only option but on of the more reliable ones.

author: manu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 11:16:48 am
content: Ok, i will need to buy new gear then
Flex PCBs in USA/Canada? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: axemaster
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2022, 04:46:07 pm
content: Hi all, I'm looking for a good flex PCB fab in the USA or Canada. I used to use PCBWay but can't anymore. Does anyone have a good recommendation?Thanks!

author: TC
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2022, 05:45:14 pm
content: If you were using PCBway I assume you are looking for low-cost prototypes. A while back I decided that I wanted to use North American manufacturing services and have tried a few. I ended up settling on OSH Park for cost reasons, qualtity is good, and they have an easy web-based instant quote/ordering system. I know that OSH Park has some flex capability so you might want to check them out.

author: cortex_m0
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2022, 06:10:12 pm
content: For prototypes, I'm not certain. My company got a big batch of ~5k rigid-flex boards done at APCT in Santa Clara, CA a couple years ago. I'm not certain whether they subcontracted part of the job out overseas, but definitely worth a call.

author: mon2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2022, 01:47:30 pm
content: The major players are overseas but if you are required to work with North American vendors, try:https://www.candorind.com/* have used this shop for rigid boards with outstanding quality of 4L PCBs - they supplied the boards in 24-48 hours for a major account (10/10 quality)* Yogen (founder) is a leader in this industry and with great expertise - now I believe his son is running the company* they list flex PCBs and they build in Toronto, Ontario, CanadaSome of the overseas vendors have local agents and contacts if that is of interest.

author: rooppoorali
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2022, 09:56:05 am
content: You can choosehttps://www.raypcb.com/While the parent company has its base in China, the manufacturer has another manufacturing base in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. You can also think about JLCPCB. As they ship worldwide. Here is a detailed writeup about how to order there:https://www.theengineeringprojects.com/2022/03/how-to-order-pcb-for-manufacturing-from-jlcpcb.html

author: exmadscientist
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2022, 07:01:15 am
content: We have not done flex in a while but in the past have had excellent results fromFlexPCB. They are one of the only flex vendors I know of who can actually turn things quickly (meaning less than a week; I forget how fast we were actually willing to pay for). And they did some excellent work on a rather horrid wearable-type thing.It looks like they have multiple US locations (now?) but I believe our orders came out of southern California.
Advice on pin in paste / through hole reflow stencil - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: loki42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2022, 01:18:57 pm
content: Anyone doing pin in paste? I'm using the tool from Indium to calculate my apertures but I'm not sure if it's worth going to things like step stencils. My apertures are pretty large but they have decent clearance from other stuff. Anything to look out for?
All the Tricks and Gotchas in Surface Mount Assembly episode - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MT
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2022, 12:30:13 am
content: Episode description:Electronics manufacturing, Chris Denney from "Pick Place Podcast". Chris and Bil discussies all things PCB assembly and pet peeves!

author: loki42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2022, 01:10:29 pm
content: This is great. Interested in the 0402 footprint example not having rounded corners though.
Breadboard Killer dead? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rea5245
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2022, 12:49:44 pm
content: Has Breadboard Killer in Australia gone out of business?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2022, 09:32:55 pm
content: Why would you use them if you are in the USA?Their site is down since March or so.https://web.archive.org/web/20220314220843/https://www.breadboardkiller.com.au/contact-us

author: rea5245
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2022, 11:54:00 pm
content: Quote from: thm_w on August 11, 2022, 09:32:55 pmI wouldn't.But I run PCBShopper and they are one of the companies in the price comparison list.- Bob Alexander
PCB hole metalization - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coldfiremc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2022, 09:21:45 pm
content: HiFor repairs and prototype, I would like to know what tools and supplies would be needed to metalize pcb holes. I've found things like thishttps://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-rivets-riveting-tools/1603694But I don't know if would be useful to metalize the typical holes for 2.54mm pitch connector holes. The "urgent" is to repair a pcb that its hole metalization is lost.Thanks

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2022, 09:31:13 pm
content: It could work if the original hole was sized large enough, or if it is safe to drill the hole larger to fit the rivet. Is it not possible to repair with jumper wires?There are lots of related threads on here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/manufacture/diy-pcbs-with-no-through-plating/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/pcb-through-hole-plating/

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2022, 09:38:21 pm
content: for a repair just solder on both sides

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2022, 11:24:13 pm
content: Long ago, I used rivets. Then switched to drilling a small hole that fit snuggly 24 awg wire. I just insert a short length, solder, cut the other side almost flush, solder it, and finally flush cut the top. Works great and doesn't look too bad.

author: MR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2022, 06:06:41 am
content: Quote from: coldfiremc on August 11, 2022, 09:21:45 pmabsolutely overpriced, get some cheap drill grind it down and you're there.Other than that you could just use a piece of wire stick it through and solder it on both ends (eg. thin reworking solder wire).I have used rivets in the past, it's interesting sometimes the corrosion is so strong that even a direct contact can not establish a connection, soldering a connection was still a must for a reliable connection.
Soldering irons that can do low temperature - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wmattias
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 05, 2022, 05:50:37 pm
content: Anyone aware of or have recommendations on soldering irons that can do low temperature? (e.g. down to 100C).Preferably taking T18 tips. Will be using this for low temperature solder, melting plastic, and other various stuff where 200C risks burning things out.I looked at the Hakko fx-888D but from the manual it wasn't clear if it be set to operate at a lower temperature than 150C (some kind of error condition below 150?).Anyone have a 888D and would mind verifying if you can set the lowest temperature specific in the spec sheet (50C)? Or any other recommendations for a "low temperature T18"?

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2022, 06:14:43 pm
content: I have a 15W (or 25W?) very old Weller that I run off of a Variac now. I can get its temperature really low. Of course, it is not temperature regulated. One of those cheap DC motor triac controllers would also work.Curious why you want such a low temperature. I generally run my iron about 200°C (393°C) above the solder melting point. That gives fast heating to soldering temperature. For plastics, I use hot air; although, some people will use something that looks like a soldering iron. Have you considered using hot air for such low temperatures?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2022, 07:19:50 pm
content: [Out on curiosity] I just checked my TS100 Iron, running IronOS (Ralim) replacement firmware. I tried it, alternating the set point between 35'C and 40'C and it was quite happy, no under or overshoot (confirmed with my fingers) so it should have no problems in the 100'C region.It doesn't take T18 tips of course, but there are K and KU knife tips available, which might be useful for plastic.Edit: Presumably this would also apply to the TS80p and Pinecil, running the same firmware.

author: wmattias
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 06, 2022, 11:03:09 am
content: The background is that I need to do heat-inserts for 3D printing. You can get nice adapters for soldering irons, but they only seem to come in T18 format. So I figured I’d just get a T18 iron to solve that, but to do the insert properly I need some kind of temperature control.200C is probably ok for that scenario, but it got me thinking that if I’m getting a second station it would be nice to be able to go lower - not really sure why but if it’s available why not(Bismuth soldering?!? Writing on plastic? Who knows).I’d honestly rather have a pen like the TS-100, but unfortunately there doesn’t seem to be any 3D heat insert adapters. I guess an option would be to take a T19 tip and reshape/thread it so it can do heat inserts but I haven’t got suitable tools at home to do that.
Soldering iron no  ESD protection? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2022, 09:16:37 am
content: Hi,Do you know if the following soldering iron has an earthed tip?https://www.avsl.com/product/703.260UK-switchable-soldering-iron-20w130wI emailed AVSL but no reply as yet.I used to own this soldering iron and soldered up some boards with it, then it broke and i threw it away, so i now cant measure to see if its tip is earthed.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 03, 2022, 09:40:44 am
content: Why would you bother? It's garbage in any case.
Cheap  flexible coax? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2022, 03:30:50 pm
content: Hi,We were going to route a signal in an SMPS with a 15cm piece of 7/0.2mm twisted pair, that woudl normally be fine, but thought of the noise in the SMPS...then decided that coax woudl be less noise prone.Can you think of any cheaper coax pieces than the following for this purpose?Farnell 3862337https://uk.farnell.com/molex/73116-0003/cable-assy-mcrf-plug-mcrf-plug/dp/3862337?ost=3862337Farnell 2096226https://uk.farnell.com/lprs/rg174-300mm/cable-rg174-300mm/dp/2096226?ost=2096226We will cut the connectors off and just solder inner and outer to PCB.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2022, 04:41:38 pm
content: You seem to have adopted the royal 'We' of old again, rather than the clearly more truthful 'I'.£3.73 + shipping sounds like appallingly bad value for a foot of RG174, plus a pair of SMA connectors, rendered useless by being cut off. Why don't you buy a longer length so that you can wire more than one board?Hell, a quick glance on ebay shows you can get RG174 for £1.99 a metre, free 3 day postage, and even that's not cheap!
ESD from kneeling on EVA roll mat whilst soldering electronics? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2022, 05:49:43 pm
content: Hi,My lab tables are only 75cm high. I solder on these. I need to loupe (eyeglass) down to the PCB when soldering as the components are small.....as such, i cannot sit on a chair, i have to kneel at the table....the floor is wood, and due to knee pain, i have put down a foam roll mat made of Ethylene-Vinyl Acetate (EVA)...Roll mat of EVAhttps://groceries.asda.com/product/camping-essentials/ozark-camping-mat/910002223736This doc suggests that ESD footwear needs an "ESD plug" if using EVA soles...https://www.pls-shop.co.uk/anti-static-and-esd-explained/So do you think that EVA is ESD generative?I am wearing a wrist strap (earthed) and the PCB is on an ESD mat which is ESD earth plugged to earth....but will i zap the components?I presume putting a conductive ESD mat (as attached) on top of the EVA roll mat will solve the problem, or make it less of a problem? This black ESD mat doesnt have poppers, so i cant connect it to earth.....i am still waiting for the poppers and "popper tool" to come through the couriers.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2022, 05:51:45 pm
content: Maybe you should have tacked this little gem onto the end of your other wooden floor ESD thread...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/manufacture/spraying-wooden-floor-with-water-to-reduce-esd-damage/The static properties of some random Asda camping mat are hardly worthy of a thread.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2022, 03:04:21 pm
content: Quote from: Faringdon on July 25, 2022, 05:49:43 pmI don’t recommend using flammablesex-enhancing substancesto try and attach the earth lead.Snap fasteners are much more common, but until you have those, just use an alligator clip to grab the edge.And yes, put the ESD mat on top of the camping mat. But a much better solution is a proper ESD-safe anti-fatigue (cushioned) floor mat.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2022, 07:52:40 pm
content: Alternatively, spray the mat and your trousers with water, or some other ionic solution.

author: Roehrenonkel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2022, 08:05:41 pm
content: Hi,Quote from: Faringdon on July 25, 2022, 05:49:43 pmPlease attach a picture, i have to see this.... ;-))
Pcbway injection molding - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: c64
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2022, 02:19:38 am
content: Anyone tried?https://www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/injection-molding/

author: ratatax
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2022, 02:16:50 pm
content: I'm trying to do a prototype with their vaccum injection molding, but for some reason they don't want my 3D file."There are line segment divisions on the surface of the 3D file, which cannot measure specific parameters and cannot be produced."My part has rounded edges and many other round areas, which are made of many rectangles. Maybe they don't like that ? But I don't know how to avoid them... Anyone with some experience could give me some insight ?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2022, 08:30:05 pm
content: What file format did you use.Maybe they are just saying the part cannot be produced with an injection mold?https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/draft-angle/

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 21, 2022, 08:40:12 pm
content: I suspect they complain about this:

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2022, 12:45:33 am
content: I just submitted a test part for quote, and PCBWay injection molding pricing isn't much better than Protolabs.com .Protolabs has a pretty good quote/review process and their support has always been really good.

author: MR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2022, 08:17:38 am
content: Hi,could you send me that part?I'm just curious what our injection molding company would charge for that.We paid like 10k USD for our last part (I'd let you know how much it costs).Companies in Germany quoted me 30K EUR back then, the first tool is still in that company for almost 10 years already - and it's still being used from time to time (and no extra charge on handling or corrosion issues).

author: ansonbao
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2022, 03:13:38 am
content: HiThe reason is that the design is segmented by rectangles，so the data cannot be measured. If it's as smooth as both sides, then there's no problem.For your design,the 3D printing is ok,but injection or CNC will meet problem.Regards