hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Small rice cooker - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: brodul
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 30, 2020, 10:35:41 am
content: Hi,I am super excited to join such a great community of people.I bought a small rice cooker about a year back. It's the classic magnetic design.The specs are:3 cups (Japanese)300W220V-240VAfter ~6 months the thermal fuse blew. I replaced it with the same specs thermal fuse (10A 192C).Now after 5 cooks it blew again. I opened the rice cooker and I could not see anything interesting/burned.It blow in the "Cooking" phase. So I checked the resistance of the heating element it was 178 Ohm. Which is OK.R = U2/ P176 Ohm ~= 2302V2/ 300WThe Thermistor should not play a role (I think it's active only when "Heating" mode is enabled)Is it just bad design? Any ideas?Best brodul

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2020, 06:42:58 am
content: I have one of those mini-rice cookers, as well as normal size ones.The way it should work is, as long as water is in the cooking chamber, heater is ON an temperature rises. As long as there are some water, the temp will never exceed 100 degrees C and keeps cooking. If you look into the cooking chamber, there is a plunger looking thing in the middle. That's a magnetic device. I don't remember the details but it uses the fact that when temp rises beyond certain point, magnetic material loses it's "magnet" and it uses that effect to cut the heat off. Thus, when water is all gone, temperature rises and goes little beyond 100C and power is cut before it reaches temp fuse spec.My guess is there is something going on with this plunger. Semi-stuck? Battery weakening?Did you know there's even a ONE CUP version of these cookers? I'm used to large ones. 6 to 10 cups. Those are TINY!

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2020, 07:43:39 am
content: I'd start looking att he spring loaded button in the base. It enables the heating element when the bowl is in place and as long as the bowl has water to evaporate the temperature doesn't rise above the boiling point. However when the rice has absorbed all the water the temperature can rise and if it rises above the point where the metal button loses its magnetic properties.When that happens there is a magnet pressed up to it by the COOK button which will release and stop the cooking. That's clearly not happening for some reason.I'd see if you can source a replacement magnetic switch. They're either going to be all the same or all different. Depending on where you live it might just make sense to buy a new one. I can imagine a switch costing half the price of a new one.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2020, 09:34:00 am
content: You might like to examine a few service manuals to get an idea how your particular appliance works.http://www.thaicity-b2b.net/service_manual/KS-COM18.pdfhttps://elektrotanya.com/showresult?what=rice+cooker&kategoria=All&kat2=All
small TFT LED backlight IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: spilihps
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2021, 07:13:13 pm
content: Hello,Currently trying to repair a water damaged temperature "camera". Come a bit on the way.It have a small color TFT with LED backlight, the anode-pin on the ribbon cable had been damaged, and probably might have shorted to the cathode.The TFT is working great when feeding the LEDs from a separate supplyThe LEDs are in series, 4x white. However i only get 3.3v to that pin and that wont doWhen tracing backwards i come to this IC, that i am hoping to be some kind of step-up for this application.However, of course it might be some other short that may trick me and my multi meter. When trying to search for the IC-name i don't have any luck.Is there someone that might know what IC this is?Thanks!

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2021, 10:31:36 pm
content: https://www.ti.com/packaging/docs/partlookup.tsphttp://www.smdmark.com/en-US/search/code?id=bhsTPS61042, Texas Instruments, 30V, 500mA, constant current, switch boost converter for white LED applications, SON-8, marking BHS:https://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/tps61042

author: spilihps
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2021, 05:07:34 pm
content: Hey fzabkar,Thats it! Thank you very much for the links.Super.Regards,
SmallHD 5" monitor backlight issue (TPS61180) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: webhdx
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 12, 2021, 09:45:55 pm
content: HelloI accidentally connected 14.4V instead of 7.2V to my SmallHD 5" HDMI monitor. In the result the backlight is not working. It's based onTPS61180IC:https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps61182.pdfHere is the typical circuit:In my case it uses 7.4V battery voltage. It's connected to the 5" LCD with 2 LED strips (each have 7 LEDs in series) so leftover 4 feedback channels are terminated with 10 kOhm resistors as the datasheet recommends. I replaced the TPS61180 which seemed to be the first suspect. After replacing it I now see a quick backlight blink. The voltage onVois 7.4V when the monitor is in standby and it's around 14V when it's booted. I've checked the panel itself with different backlight circuit and it works (I also confirmed the monitor itself is fully functional). I also did a quick contraption with 2 rows of 7 LEDs in series and the effect is the same - one blink and it's off. I did a lot of research and to me it seems like this is some kind of overvoltage protection going on:Which is weird since the LEDs in the backlight seem to be working, also leftover feedback channels are properly terminated.I hit the wall - I have no electrical engineering knowledge around switching voltage regulators/backlight circuits. Can you point me what should I check next?Thanks in advance!

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2021, 10:30:47 am
content: Considering that the IC can take up to 24V, it would not be my first suspect. Have you checked the EN and PWM Dimming inputs? Is it enabled? Does it have a PWM that can be adjusted from brightness, I believe? There must be a processor that controls it and that would be my suspect.

author: techneut
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2021, 11:10:56 am
content: Did you check the 2 led strings and their connections and the 10K resistors, the TPS61180 will shut down of one of the LED strings has een open. Check pin 16 (Fault) should be low.
SMART X-Port 10 buzzing audio fix - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: poot36
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2023, 02:49:58 am
content: If you have a X-Port 10 switcher and you are getting buzzing audio when even just the power supply is plugged into the unit with no other cables plugged in then I have the fix for you. You will need to change the capacitor in location C8. It is a 100uf 25V cap. This is for the negative 9V rail for the serial ports. I have circled it in red in the attached photo. If your are interested C31 is a 100uf 25V cap as well for the positive 6.4V rail for the serial port and C37 is 330uf 16V cap for the 5V rail if I remember correctly. C42 is a 220uf 25V cap for the 12V main input rail.
Smartphone pinch zoom gestures dont work well - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: eTobey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2023, 05:47:10 am
content: Hi,i have a Huawei Y5, that has an issue, so that when you pinch zoom, and you place your fingers closer together (~18mm), it goes jumps all over the place. I compared another one, that works flawless which goes down to 14mm, as close together as you could get your fingers. I measured the values with the touchpointers enabled. They also show, that two fingers are identified as one.I now wonder, if this issue could be fixed with some hardware hack.CheersToby

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2023, 07:09:48 am
content: Chances are there’s nothing you can do, as that is likely a firmware issue. The only thing I can mention is that if the problem only happens when connected to a charger, it could be due to a charger that has “dirty” (noisy) output. That can cause touchscreen problems. I kinda doubt it’s the problem here, but it’s easy to test of course: if the problem goes away when running on battery, it’s the charger.

author: eTobey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2023, 11:06:32 am
content: I made another test:There is a big difference from horizontal and vertikal direction. It works quite good on the short side, but on the long side (as you usually hold your fingers) it gets much worse if you go to the upper edge or lower edge( 40mm). Im thinking that it might be just a decoupling problem with the chip. Interference?

author: Stray Electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2023, 11:37:36 am
content: Does the problem change when you rotate the phone and the image changes from horizontal axis to the vertical axis?

author: eTobey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2023, 01:24:41 pm
content: Quote from: Stray Electron on March 31, 2023, 11:37:36 amNo, it doesnt.

author: abdulbadii
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2023, 03:24:01 pm
content: sure there's no screen issue else ?if sure so, then it is firm-/soft-ware faulty otherwise some Lcd caps. imperfection

author: eTobey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2023, 07:36:48 pm
content: I found no other issue.I just found my second of the same type i have. Its just the same with this one.
SMD  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: funky2x
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2022, 04:36:51 pm
content: I am looking for help to identify smd ic in the photo attached. I tried google but no reuslt.Its for led driver with motion sensor.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2022, 08:31:50 pm
content: The logo belongs to ...http://www.microne.com.cn/
SMD cap identification please - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tony359
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 11:52:49 pm
content: Hi all,Could someone help me identifying brand and series of this SMD capacitor? it should be a 10uF, 35V.I doubt it's a "Panasonic FN" series as the marking doesn't match what the datasheet says - plus Panasonic SMD caps have a much darker ink somehow!The only thing I can find similar to an "SL" series online would be the generic "Multicomp" ones from Farnell but the datasheet doesn't say anything about the marking. This is assuming that "V" stands for 25V and "SL" is the series?Thanks!

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2025, 04:25:34 am
content: fn could be the lot number ?

author: parawizard
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2025, 08:43:34 am
content: Are there more caps on the board that are similar? Any pattern in manufacturer?

author: tony359
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2025, 09:49:13 am
content: I think I found them.The 10uF and 1uF are the SL series, it's an obsolete Rubycon one. The marking matches the casehttps://www.rubycon.co.jp/wp-content/uploads/catalog-aluminum/SLV.pdfAnd I made a mistake, those 10uF are 35V, not 25V.The 1uF is also the same series.The 100uF should be this one:https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/rubycon/25TXV100M6-3X8/3568657But discovering the 10uF series was my main goal so happy days. Thanks for your help!
[Solved] SMD Capacitor - G65 10 16V - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Thohean
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 15, 2020, 10:24:37 pm
content: I'm a super noob to electronic components, so I'll apologize now for what is likely a fairly basic question.I have a circuit board that runs a VFD, an IR sensor and some kind of IC that interprets the IR signals from a windows media center remote. The VFD works fine, but it is also suppose to power on the system from the remote, but that functionality stopped working years ago.I finally took the board out of the case, during an upgrade of the PC components, to inspect the parts and noticed one of the SMD capacitors had broken one of it's legs. I need a replacement for this capacitor, but can't find anything that matches what is listed on it.This is what it has:G651016VThis is out of a DVine MCE303 case. It's old and was never a popular case, so I haven't been able to find any replacement parts for it.

author: drvtech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2020, 11:14:51 pm
content: Looks like a bog standard 10uF 16Volt cap to me. Just about anything you can fit in there and are happy soldering would do. You might find it easier to use one with wire leads rather than a surface mount part if you are new to soldering. You just solder the wires straight down onto the pads. Hope this helps.

author: Thohean
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 16, 2020, 01:16:30 am
content: Thank you! I suspected it was something simple, but that G65 was messing me up. I do have experience with hot air rework stations, but I just never "knew" about the components I was replacing, as they were mostly connectors or the capacitors that were being replaced had the same lettering as the new ones.
SMD Capacitor seems to have exploded in two - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Grunchy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 13, 2020, 06:57:35 pm
content: It's a SMD component marked "107D" and "217U5".So far I have deduced that it is a 100 µF capacitor and possibly tantalum.But what means the "217U5" marking? I googled all over and could not find a guide to this 2nd line of marking.Also what do you suppose if I were to put on a regular thru-hole ceramic component instead?

author: asp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2020, 07:41:43 pm
content: You can find your datasheet for your cap here:http://datasheets.avx.com/TAJ.pdfAnd from reading the datasheet your cap is a 100uF/20V. You cannot replace it with a ceramic cap since ceramic caps don't have polarities, but you can (most likely) replace it with a THT electrolytic cap (it just depends on the application) just be sure not to mount it reversed (your anode(+) side of the cap is to the left of the picture))

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2020, 07:45:47 pm
content: 100uf ceramic would be an issue, you could probably replace it with a 100uF 25V SMD electrolytic with no problems, provided there is enough room. Looks like it is the input filtering, and either you had reverse polarity connection or connected the input with power applied.

author: Grunchy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 14, 2020, 06:58:00 am
content: Thanks everyone - I replaced the SMD with an electrolytic, but the board has perished.I couldn't see anything else obviously wrong so I'm retiring it!

author: asp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2020, 08:47:11 pm
content: Maybe you can give us more details about the board since somebody might come up with a schematic for it as that will make it easier to find the fault.SeanB is right as it looks like a filtering cap. Start debugging the board from the PSU onward (voltage regulators, mosfets, diodes..)

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2020, 09:46:38 pm
content: Possible the tant exploded on its own, or due to a supply transient; this will momentarily or continuously short the supply, so could compromise other components (FETs, fuses?). Could also be from a reverse or overvoltage condition, which likely took out lots of other things.What is this, a laptop motherboard or something? I once had the condition where my power adapter was going flaky (the cable was frayed and the +19V output was occasionally shorting to GND), and in one instance I plugged it in, and poof, magic smoke from the motherboard. Looked like some charging-related circuitry poofed (an SOIC-8, which it turns out was just an LM393, of all things?!), and a couple peripherals (an ASIC, a PCI bridge or SuperIO I think) suggesting a 3.3V rail went kaput. CPU, GPU, RAM, HDD were all still fine, replaced the mobo, good as new...Probably, a similar situation, or perhaps an accidentally reversed plug pack (does anyone make adapters with common connectors but reversed polarity?) or the wrong voltage, could have caused your problem. Among many other possibilities.Tim
Smd capacitor snatched on gtx 750 ti - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Techsell
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 23, 2020, 10:10:36 am
content: Hello everyoneI have a problem. One of the smd capacitor was snatched from near pin of gtx 750 ti.Is it necessary or can it worked without it ?because my graphic card works without it now, i'm just afraid to make problem on futurePlease help￼

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2020, 10:18:56 am
content: That seems to be some input decoupling / noise supression. Seems to be located on some power input rail.If it works now without it, I'd be quite confident it will continue working.Decoupling/filtering caps may be usually omitted/optimized out of designs as at times they may even be redundant or used too extensively - but you never know, this is a very complex topic to discuss here.Leave it without the cap, you can continue using it. I would not be that much worried.
SMD code 2F - NPN or PNP Tranzistor? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: 2X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2023, 06:45:10 pm
content: Hello,I have an AC(230Vrms) to DC(17VCD) power supply. It has short(green circle) some components and burn (red circle)some others. One of the burned components was an SMD component with 2F marking on it. I designed a part of the circuit. I can't understand the yellow highlight how it works and what is the use for the Q6 and D6 (maybe for discharge the capacitance at the gate of the mosfet but the diode is in reverse), but what do you beleive that is the Q6 tranzistor... an NPN or a PNP?2Fhttp://markingcodes.com/search/c/2FBC850B - NPNhttps://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/BC850B.pdfMMBT2907AW - PNPhttps://gr.mouser.com/datasheet/2/849/mmbt2907-2577580.pdf

author: magic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2023, 07:07:21 pm
content: Are you sure about D6 polarity, location and connections?Assuming that your schematic is correct regarding Q6, it has to be PNP because NPN base-collector junction would limit voltage after R23 to no more than 0.7V - not enough to ever turn on the MOSFET.editBlown gate drive circuitry means that significant current was flowing through it from the shorted FET. This current went to the chip (nowhere else to go), so the chip may be damaged too even if it isn't visibly smoked. I recommend some testing without power FET installed, or simply replacement, because powering up the whole PSU with bad control chip may cause similar disaster to happen again.Make sure that there is no short in parallel with R1 - this could be one possible trigger for this kind of failure, and it would happen again if not corrected.Quote from: 2X on October 07, 2023, 06:45:10 pm2907 is PNP.

author: 2X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2023, 08:08:06 pm
content: Quote from: magic on October 07, 2023, 07:07:21 pmThe chip I measured it with multimeter on the PCB and the pins 7 and 6 was shorted. I removed the chip from the PCB and the short removed from the PCB but was still exists on the the chip (TDC4863). I will install a new one and I will check (with a portable oscilloscope - OWON HDS2202S) if on the pin 7 give square pulses.Are you sure about D6 polarity, location and connections?It is very strang to me... I wll check it again with the multimeter.Thanks for your reply.

author: fmashockie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2023, 04:27:05 pm
content: Here's an application circuit attached for the TDA4863 for your reference. It could help you verify you've traced out your circuit correctly.
SMD code RA76_WQA ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: juju1970
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2024, 12:55:46 pm
content: Hi everyone.I can't identify the IC marked RA76 WQA. This is some kind of EEPROM like 93c66.I try to read it with the programmer, setting different memory types, but I can't.Тhe memory is healthy and installed on the device worкs.If someone has come across this sign, please write which one it corresponds to.Thanks in advance.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2024, 02:34:21 pm
content: http://markingcodes.com/search/c/ra76RA76 = BR93A76RF, Automotive Microwire BUS 8Kbit (512x16bit) EEPROMhttps://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/348/br93axx_wm_e-1873843.pdf

author: juju1970
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2024, 05:56:54 pm
content: Thank you so much !
SMD CODE:DD24AA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: BMTELEC
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2021, 12:31:50 pm
content: Hello Everybody,What is the corresponding material of DD24AA? Please look at the picture.Thank you for your help

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2021, 04:54:32 pm
content: NDT452AP, Fairchild, P-Channel Enhancement Mode Field Effect Transistor, -5A, -30V, 0.1 ohm Rdson, SOT-223:https://docs.rs-online.com/840f/0900766b80d25e69.pdfhttp://www.smdmark.com/en-US/search/code?id=452a

author: BMTELEC
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2021, 08:00:33 am
content: Many thanks fzabkar
SMD Codes 8A - 8Y - A6 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: 2X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 03:06:54 pm
content: I have the below SMD codes. The 8Y I am sure that is a zener diode, but the other two I am nut sure 100%. Could you give me your opinion?8A:http://markingcodes.com/search/c/8AZener Diodes 3.3V 350mWhttps://gr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Diodes-Incorporated/MMBZ5226B-7-F?qs=3mm%2FmIX74AJ14R3N%252B%2FYTog%3D%3D&gclid=CjwKCAjwseSoBhBXEiwA9iZtxrORPZlKba5Bfb-1HRNcH20gZMRMcE55S8fyoOPECRbCrpJE0aE3AxoCtZgQAvD_BwE8Y:http://markingcodes.com/search/c/8YZener Diodes 18V 350mWhttps://gr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Diodes-Incorporated/MMBZ5248B-7-F?qs=waAV%252BUYAhKmUVbIuPZ2Wfg%3D%3DA6:http://markingcodes.com/search/c/A6Diodes - General Purpose, Power, Switching BAS16W/SOT323/SC-70https://gr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nexperia/BAS16W115?qs=me8TqzrmIYVHY4LTyA7sGQ%3D%3D

author: BreakingOhmsLaw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2023, 03:54:37 pm
content: Please make a sketch of the schematic. At first glance, it looks like a bipolar push/pull stage, followed by a MOSFET.Having the rough schematic would make an educated guess much easier.
SMD component decode problem (LD mark) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Krzysztof87PL
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 08, 2022, 07:25:14 am
content: Hi, I have a huge problem with decode of SMD component. It's element Q36 .LDt (LD*) probably SOT 363 or SC70-6 package. I found NL7SZ18DFT2 but it's multiplexer, MOSFET BF1202R only available on SOT143R, SOT143B, SOT343R, package (only 4 pins package). The photo of PCB on attachment.Regards Krzysztof

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2022, 09:59:43 pm
content: Could you trace out the circuit in the vicinity? Can you identify the ground and supply pins? That might help to visualise what it is.I have a feeling that "t" may be a code which identifies the manufacturing location, as in parts made by NXP.Are the other components American or Japanese or something else?

author: Krzysztof87PL
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 09, 2022, 12:24:59 pm
content: Hi,QuoteOther components are from Texas Instruments, NXP, National Instruments, ST, Linear Technology.QuoteYes, but I can found only track close to damaged transistor it's multilayer PCB (probably 6 or 8 )

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2022, 01:37:03 pm
content: NX3008CBKShttps://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/NX3008CBKS.pdf

author: Krzysztof87PL
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 10, 2022, 06:05:09 am
content: @gamalot this is it! Thanks you very much for support!
SMD component identification (Powerbook 3400c motherboard/PSU input) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lausvi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 31, 2020, 05:46:12 pm
content: Hi.I have an unknown condition Apple Powerbook 3400c laptop from around 1997. It came without PSU and told to be non-working. I bought a 2nd hand PSU. When I plug it in and press the power button, I hear a faint crackle from the speaker, then silence, and after few seconds another crackle. Sounds like it's trying to power up but fails and repeats.I haven't been able to find schematics for the model. I have been looking at the board and noticed that there is a charred 3-pin component on the board, right next to the PSU connector. It's labeled DZ4 (zener diode?). So pretty much the same as described in here (http://www.powerbookmedic.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1046).Here is how my board looks right now:I found some nice photos of how the board should look:https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/24895-powerbook-3400c-repair-stories/&page=2&tab=comments#comment-271133. The 5th photo shows the component nicely. There DZ4 (down-right to the PSU connector, next to a small 000-resistor, which measures fine after cleaning) appears to be marked "6H8" (or is it the other way round, "8H9"?) Or is it B, not 8?Is there any way to figure out what that component is (in order to get a replacement)?(Yes, I am mostly going blind here, and just looking at the obviously burnt thing first). Would be a nice machine to get up and running

author: Dacke
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2020, 04:17:14 pm
content: Looks like it may be connected between two pins on the DC jack but difficult to tell, possibly a protection diode? I would check to see if it's shorted and if it is, remove it and see if the machine boots.
smd component identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lionelkjh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2019, 07:34:53 am
content: Hello everyone! I am trying to identify 2 regulators of positive and negative voltage (maybe 3v / -3v) going to power an integrated circuit SC9711, their respective markings are: 3A, 5A. I attach the photo of their boxes. Can you help me?? Thanks in advance

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2019, 11:47:59 am
content: I am dealing with such issues for a long period by now..It has become a nonsense such simple markings once on the tablesyou find that every fab use their own meaning for the letterWhat is DIGIT-LETTER may be anything - from transistor to diode or regulator.Someone at some point must put things at the proper serious level.about 50% of smd I tried I found NOTHING AT ALL about it.kinda dark age of serious electronicsPaul

author: LateLesley
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2019, 05:09:32 pm
content: I think this might be the 3A one.https://cdn.datasheetspdf.com/pdf-down/X/C/6/XC62FP-TorexSemiconductor.pdfEdit : and I think this is the 5A one.https://www.torexsemi.com/file/xc62k/XC62K.pdf

author: lionelkjh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2019, 08:36:29 am
content: with a little delay: thank you very much !!
SMD Component Identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: marc.hickling
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2020, 02:06:06 pm
content: Hi friends... I have this microchip part on a repair I am doing and have no idea what part number it is. tried contacting microchip and they haven't got back to me. anyone any ideas?

author: TheMG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2020, 02:08:29 am
content: Likely a custom part number. Probably a pre-programmed (mask ROM) version of one of their 8-pin PIC micro-controllers. Microchip does offer such a service.Without knowing anything about the rest of the circuit surrounding this IC, that's my best guess.
smd component identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sunfire
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2021, 12:04:52 pm
content: Hello,I (almost) repaired an Nvidia RTX2080 card where the memory VRM was outputting only 0.3v instead of the expected 1.35v. The problem ended up being a SOT component marked Q32 on the PCB, which is generating the reference voltage for the memory VRM controller up9512p (it was outputting exactly 0.3v, which the up9512p faithfully replicated at the memory VRM output).I found another identical component in the fan controller circuit and swapped them around, this fixed the memory VRM but of course now the fan doesn't work.I'm attaching a photo taken with my phone (i hope it's clear enough) of the defective component in the memory VRM circuit. Pin 6 connects to the reference voltage input pin 1 of up9512p through a 100 ohm resistor (there is another 2.7k resistor from up9512p pin 1 to GND). I haven't taken notes of the voltages on the Q32 pins but if my memory is correct pin 1 is connected to GND, there was 2.7v on pins 2, 3 and 4 and there was some voltage i can't remember on pin 5. Pin 6 is connected to refin pin on up9512p. My memory could be wrong though, please take this with a grain of salt. At the moment the graphic card is fully assembled and it's used in my PC, according to the GPU bios the fan is not even supposed to start up until the hottest component on the card reaches 65 degrees Celsius. My PC usage doesn't get the GPU to warm up to that temperature, so the fan is not actually needed. Of course the story will be different if i put some load on the GPU. The GPU core never warms up more than 43.5 degrees Celsius, the RAM never warms up more than 52.6 degrees Celsius and the hottest component of the card never warms up more than 53.4 degrees Celsius.I can't figure out what this Q32 component is, the PCB would imply it's a transistor or a transistor array, help please ?Thank you very much in advance !

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2021, 12:25:30 pm
content: Could be NTJD5121Nhttps://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/ntjd5121n-d.pdf

author: sunfire
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2021, 12:47:20 pm
content: Quote from: gamalot on March 14, 2021, 12:25:30 pmThat was a FAST reply, THANK YOU !Not only the reply was fast, it looks to be very promising, i found a picture of the NTJD5121NT1G chip here -->https://www.chipdip.ru/product0/8001928658and it does look to be the correct chip (i'm thinking that other marking "3" on my chip which is different from the "L" in the picture i found for NTJD5121NT1G may be something related to shipping packaging or something else not related to the functionality).

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2021, 01:14:27 pm
content: The other marking should be date code or manufacturing/assembly location.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2021, 07:38:46 pm
content: I use this database:http://www.smdmark.com/en-US/search/code?id=tf
SMD component identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rodrigopires
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2022, 06:28:58 pm
content: Hello everybody, I'm repairing a washing machine board and one of these smd components is dead. I tryed to look online but could not find anything conclusive with the A25 marking... Does anyone have an idea what it could be and the reference?Thanks!

author: Audiorepair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2022, 06:44:41 pm
content: Funnily enough I replaced 4 of these today on a powered speaker.The marking is A2, and in my case they were a bog standard 1N4148 diode.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2022, 12:22:43 am
content: Quote from: Audiorepair on May 11, 2022, 06:44:41 pmI just had to see if this diode had its own page at Wikipedia.Sure enough ...https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1N4148_signal_diode

author: rodrigopires
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2022, 07:42:02 am
content: Thank you so much! I just looked for the A25 and never thought it could be just A2... Mistery solved 👍

author: VU2CMV
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2022, 09:16:44 am
content: https://www.s-manuals.com/smdAbove link can be helpful to know SMD components from their markings. After you find the type of component, match with datasheet
Smd component identification. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: satanistik
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 06:30:21 pm
content: I need to identification SMD X8TA SOT23 ic from movi gimbal board. I think it's single opamp or logic gate.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 06:38:23 pm
content: No picture, don't even tell how many pins it has?

author: satanistik
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 08:30:25 pm
content: I have board in my workshop, its 5 pin and I can measure gng and vcc pin.

author: bidrohini
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2023, 02:03:50 pm
content: Not sure but looks close to this one:

author: R-1125F
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2023, 04:24:58 pm
content: Please post a photo of your board.

author: satanistik
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 12:34:32 pm
content: Some photos.

author: satanistik
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 12:38:05 pm
content: Schematic.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 12:55:43 pm
content: Try this:https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/LMV331_393.pdf

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 01:34:27 pm
content: Quote from: satanistik on January 13, 2023, 12:38:05 pmThis PCB is a bit weird. I mean the designators of those chips. How come some are prefixed with IC and others are prefixed with U?

author: satanistik
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 02:36:09 pm
content: Lmv331 don't have this mark code in pdf. I think it's comparator or aperation amplifier. But out is connection to ground width resistor and this not look to open collector.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 02:42:40 pm
content: Quote from: satanistik on January 13, 2023, 02:36:09 pmWhat are talking about? Did you really read the data sheet carefully?

author: satanistik
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 02:53:50 pm
content: From pdf - open collector output.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 02:56:59 pm
content: Quote from: satanistik on January 13, 2023, 02:53:50 pmand? A pull-down resistor doesn't tell anything, it's most likely being pulled up elsewhere.

author: satanistik
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 03:01:25 pm
content: Quote- Yes, its fact - board have multi layers and making schematic are dificult.I have second ic on this board looking good, first have broken pin. I try to make test circuit.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2023, 02:13:27 am
content: Quote from: gamalot on January 13, 2023, 01:34:27 pmCould it be ...U = analogueIC = digital

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2023, 04:07:29 am
content: Quote from: fzabkar on January 14, 2023, 02:13:27 amYeah, nah, the IC1 is a TJA1051 high speed CAN transceiver, but the IC2 is an AP2210N-3.0 LDO.
SMD Component Identification Help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Testtech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2024, 10:19:19 pm
content: Greetings,I am working on an RF circuit and have encountered SMD components that I do not recognize. Please see the picture. I have outlined the four parts in question.They have white translucent bodies, no marking other than the partial black band.Resistance measured across these varies, and I suspect that the reading are from other circuit DC paths. I suspect capacitors.Does anyone know for certain?Thank you!

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2024, 10:44:26 pm
content: The unmarked ones look like chip inductors. If so, then they should measure close to zero ohms.

author: Testtech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2024, 10:48:52 pm
content: I don't think they are inductors, as some measure in the 1000's of ohms, and other do not.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2024, 11:56:56 pm
content: Precision resistors?

author: Testtech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2024, 12:17:10 am
content: fzabkar,You are correct, these are inductors!I am in the process of working out exactly what is going on. Some of these components have clearly failed open circuit. Unfortunately, there are no value markings, so I am not sure how to estimate the correct values.Some are in the signal path, (3-4 GHz), others seem to be bias filters for the transistor gain stages.

author: eb4fbz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2024, 11:40:57 am
content: Multilayer inductors

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2024, 12:14:30 pm
content: Which one is open circuit?

author: Testtech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2024, 07:41:36 pm
content: More progress with the component identification.The components in question are both inductors and microwave capacitors. Unfortunately they appear almost identical, and have no value marking.The inductors have a black square located at one end, while the capacitors have a black square in the middle of the white body.I drew the schematic and it became clear that the capacitors are connected from a DC point to ground, or in a series signal path, (3.5 GHz), while the inductors are essentially bias chokes.It looks like the RF transistor is dead, replacement on order.Thanks to all who have responded.
SMD Components Identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: wschindel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 30, 2023, 06:49:00 pm
content: Hello,I'm repairing a equipment to test CAN and LIN data bus for automotive use. Mapping the electrical diagram I found three SMD components (all SOT-23) and didn't find the data sheet in the internet (I accessed all the sources that I know) withou any result.The components are P8K4S, MKCP and LHETE (please find attached pictures).

author: fenugrec
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2023, 05:11:55 pm
content: Tracing partial schematics of what these devices are connected to, will help narrow down possible device types. Your photos show no "context" of the surrounding circuit.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2023, 05:41:55 pm
content: Quote from: fenugrec on February 01, 2023, 05:11:55 pmI was thinking that this subforum needs a sticky thread to address these kinds of questions.
SMD Datasheet help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: TobiasG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2023, 12:03:29 pm
content: Hello all, I need help to find the datasheet of 2 components bellow: thank you.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2023, 03:27:03 pm
content: TJ = TLV1117LV33DCYSH = TLV1117LV18DCYhttp://markingcodes.com/search/c/tjhttp://markingcodes.com/search/c/shhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004517442046.html(photos)TLV1117, Texas Instruments, 800mA Low-Dropout Voltage Regulator, marking TJ = 3.3V / SH = 1.8V, SOT223:https://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/tlv1117(datasheet)

author: TobiasG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2023, 10:26:08 pm
content: Thank very muchHelp me a lot
SMD DESOLDERING - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: simon christo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2022, 11:42:28 am
content: Hi again!!! Where is the best way to start if you need to buy a SMD DESOLDERING STATION.i HAVEN'T SEEN ANY TIPS TO SUIT SMD RESISTORS, CAPACITORS OR IC'S YET?I've only seen whats available at Jaycar, and not much else.Any ideas? Thanks Simon.

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2022, 02:33:37 pm
content: i normaly use a hotair station in combination with a soldering iron and medium conical tip,this is what i got,seems to work well but can blow componets about next to the taret if not carefullhttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265191280074

author: simon christo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2022, 03:05:21 am
content: Thanks!! I saw on YouTube, that small components like SMD Resistors & Capacitors, came of easily with just flooding the area with flux, and then bring it up to a resnable heat, and it came of very easily.3 questions though;* 1:Is a Hair Dryer, good enough to obtain the flux heat?* 2 Does SMD ADHESIVE, cause a problem when removing these components?* 3: Is there a difference between 'Bakers Flux' and normal SMD Flux, and can either be used in this case?Thanks Simon.

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2022, 12:06:29 pm
content: no to a hair dryer,never heard of bakers flux,only bakers fluid,thats zinc chloride based,corrosive,normaly used for radiator repairs and plumbing,not for electronics,you display a big lack of basic knowlege.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2022, 03:47:36 pm
content: Quote from: simon christo on April 24, 2022, 03:05:21 am1. Umm, the heat isn't to heat the flux per se, the heat is to melt the solder. A hair dryer most certainly does not reach soldering temperatures!! Hair dryers, at most, reach just below the boiling point of water. Solder needs substantially hotter temperatures, which is why hot air stations are typically operated at around 350C. Imagine what that would do to hair!2. It makes them harder to remove. There are tutorials on how to deal with this.3. Assuming you mean Bakers fluid, it's a corrosive flux that doesn't belong anywhere near electronics, as it will cause corrosion.
SMD Diode ID I am Stumped.. GC 1E  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: KG7AMV
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2024, 04:17:53 am
content: I don't get stumped often this ones got me.. Diode ID?? GC 1E anyone?Possible Candidate? U1GC44 or RB068VWM-30TFThanks In Advance

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2024, 05:04:12 am
content: U1GC44, Toshiba, rectifier diode, 1A, 400V, marking GC, SMA/DO-214AC:https://datasheet.sisoog.com/file/7a657573/datasheet/f8d7de9079fb65a94acbecefc451543271450002.pdfhttp://markingcodes.com/search/c/gchttps://www.taobao.com/list/item/625881089506.htm(photo of UIGC44)https://img.alicdn.com/imgextra/i1/1819684702/O1CN01UXoq3f1kbYxj9tncb_!!1819684702.jpghttps://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-608374562-set-x-2-u1jc44-jc-diodo-smd-uso-hibrido-u1bc44-u1gc44-bc-gc-_JM(photo of UIJC44)https://http2.mlstatic.com/D_NQ_NP_844937-MLA47355901684_092021-O.webphttps://www.veswin.com/product-U1BC44.html(photo of UIBC44)https://www.veswin.com/productfiles/b/202311/f86d5bf6-988c-4b5b-905c-08dbc6589f1e.webp
SMD Diode identification  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: de_light
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2021, 03:16:31 am
content: Trying to repair an electronic toothbrush. It has a shorted SMD diode that is too small to photograph with the marking X with three vertical bands at one side. Any ideas what this could be? I've tried googling and the SMD codebook.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2021, 07:41:00 am
content: Things will be much easier if you upload a picture, even if the details are not very clear. According to your description, I guess it is RB161VA-20.https://fscdn.rohm.com/en/products/databook/datasheet-nrnd/discrete/diode/schottky_barrier/rb161va-20.pdf
SMD Diode identification  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: xenoxaos
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2025, 12:55:33 am
content: I was checking some SSDs that have been out of use from upgrades.2x128Gb and 1x512GB.I remembered that the 512GB was speedy enough I could throw it in and use it as a mount point for some of the bulkier but less used parts of my homedir. I grabbed a USB to SATA adapter and tested the first two (without even using the extra power plug) but the big one power cycled my powered USB hub and it would come back but with that port disabled. I grabbed a molex to SATA power cable and it showed a dead short between GND and 5V. Current limit on my bench supply at 250mA and 1V (because the current limit kicked in at 0.02V at 250mA. Tested the voltage at various points on the board and it looks like the short was caused by a diode. Broke out the soldering iron and flux to get a shim to isolate it/tombstone it. Now there's no short. Can anyone help identify the diode? I think it's a little fuse but not sure of what kind. Since it's so close to the power connection maybe reverse polarity protection and went short circuit at some point?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2025, 02:49:53 am
content: It's a 5V TVS diode by Littelfuse.Or maybe it's a 200W 6V unidirectional TVS diode, SMF6.0A.https://www.littelfuse.com/assetdocs/tvs-diodes-smf-datasheet?assetguid=7eb8a5b6-bdd0-4561-8f19-0c3cc6f9b2af
SMD diode mark - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: TobiasG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2024, 02:12:40 pm
content: Hello allCould you help to find this diode datasheet?On the reference I just can see "ET"

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2024, 02:22:34 pm
content: SM6T33Ahttps://www.st.com/en/protections-and-emi-filters/sm6t33a.htmlhttps://jlcpcb.com/partdetail/STMicroelectronics-SM6T33A/C133690

author: TobiasG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2024, 02:26:34 pm
content: Thank you GamalotYou are so fast.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2024, 06:36:02 pm
content: https://markingcodes.com/search/c/et