hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
JBC soldering station - automatic fan hack - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: leo938
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 09:27:59 pm
content: Hello all,I have a JBC station, similar to the one Dave reviewed in episode #472 (https://lbry.tv/@eevblog:7/eevblog-472-jbc-cd-2bb-soldering-iron:8)I'd like to alter/hack the station so that once the iron is removed from the station it activates a smoke removal fan & switches it off (after a short delay) once the iron is replaced.After examining the unit I discovered that the outer ring on the soldering iron is connected to one of the pins (number 5 I think) in the soldering iron connector. Using this connector & the metal receptor which it contacts on the soldering station it should be relatively straightforward (I think) to trigger something like an opto-coupler that would trigger the fan appropriately.However the only issue might be is that the soldering station also uses this connection to signal (via the dsPIC) the heating of the iron (see video at 2:45 & 9:13).From my understanding once the signal is a few volts & separate from the soldering station supply it should be relatively safe, but before I destroy a very good station I'd appreciate any thoughts from others.Thanks for reading,Leo

author: Hydron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2020, 07:07:06 am
content: On my JBC station (the BT-2BWA model) the iron stand has a 5V pullup (i think on the order of 10k) which is grounded by the iron to signal that it is in the holder. Should be pretty easy to add an isolated output to the station using this signal, the internal power rail of the station, a mosfet, an opto-coupler and a resistor - is something you could hack up on bit of verroboard and just chuck inside.There is also another thread floating around with a full JBC schematic that the poster has reverse engineered - may be of use.

author: leo938
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2020, 08:30:46 pm
content: Many thanks for the idea, will take a look

author: leo938
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2020, 09:13:05 pm
content: Here's the link to the full breakdown of the schematic of the iron:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/jbc-soldering-station-cd-2bc-complete-schematic-analysis/Using this I discovered a usable solution. From the picture below the signal from the stand to the top of the zener (marked SIG in the picture) is grounded when the iron is in the stand & approx a 100Hz square wave when out. Please note that this is in reference to the GND marked in the picture,notthe ESD ground at the back of the iron. Using this a tap from the 3.3v regulator it should be straightforward to implement an optocoupler solution.
JBC PA120-A Micro Tweezer connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: romekplay
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 25, 2018, 05:45:13 pm
content: Hey folks, has anyone managed to identify the connector used by JBC PA120-A Micro Tweezer for their stations?I'd like to build Unisolder soldering Station and use PA120-A Micro Tweezer.

author: kaevee
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2018, 02:10:33 am
content: Checkouthttps://www.hirose.com/product/en/products/RP/RPC1%2D12RB%2D6P%2871%29/https://www.arrow.com/en/products/rpc1-12rb-6p-71/hirose-electricIf you search the UniSol thread, you will see the above part number.

author: romekplay
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 26, 2018, 05:16:27 pm
content: Thanks , I'll have a look. But it is definitely not RPC1-12RB-6P(71). RPC1-12RB-6P(71) is used by T245-A handle and so. But the tweezer uses some diffirent connector. I am not even sure if it is hirose. But thaks anyway, i will try to find it on hirose page you sent me.

author: giovannirat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2020, 06:07:21 pm
content: Looks like a Binder connector series 678

author: ben_r_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2020, 06:48:44 pm
content: Pretty cool! This might be handy info to keep around!
TS80 /TS-D25 chisel tip not a chisel - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: shodid
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 14, 2020, 12:18:32 am
content: My TS80 chisel tip model TS-D25 arrived today. One side is chiseled and the other is a convex curve. Not happy about having to keep track of the orientation while working.This is not how my other much cheaper tips are. I was thinking before I sent it back for an exchange, I'd ask the community here if theirs are all the same. Did I just get a bad quality one? How are yours looking?Here is a video to illustrate.
USB IrDA adapter (was: MetraHit USB IR DIY Interface) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: 0xdeadbeef
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2015, 03:00:21 pm
content: As discussed in anotherthread, it needs only a plain vanilla IrDA interface to communicate with a Gossen Metrawatt MetraHit meter from the Starline series. In my case the Metrahit X-Tra, but it should be the same for the Extra, Energy and so on.While I have a working breadboard approach based on an "IrDA2 click" and a Chinese FTDI adapter, I wanted to create something more convenient.I tried my best to allow a correct USB suspend mode by using the #PWREN/#SLEEP outputs as enable/disable lines for the IrDA part.My idea is to fit the PCB into the a laser cut acrylic case so it can be mounted to the meter just like the real thing.Anyway, before I order at Elecrow or so, I'd be nice if someone could have a look and tell me if I overlooked any blatant mistakes.

author: 0xdeadbeef
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2015, 01:40:09 am
content: Just for the protocol, I set up apage for this little project.All the DipTrace/Gerber files etc. are released as Open Hardware and can be downloaded from a Git archive hosted by Bitbucket.Tested it with an Metrahit X-Tra and Ultra, both work like a charm (even though Metrawin10 doesn't support the Ultra out of the box and needs a bit of special treatment to do so).

author: edisitaru
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2020, 08:31:59 am
content: I want to buy such an interface, completely assembled, including the case. I own a Metrahit Tech.Thanks!

author: 0xdeadbeef
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2020, 01:49:02 pm
content: Sorry bu I never really sold them. I gave away all the spare PCBs and a few kits (PCB + ICs) at cost price but that was many years ago and I never ordered a 2nd batch of PCBs. If you absolutely don't want to solder, you best bet probably is to try to get the IrDA2 click board and some UART/USB adapter
Pace ADS200 tips sizes recommendation for beginner and also USB connectors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dman777
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2020, 03:11:36 am
content: I think I am going to pull the trigger on a Pace ADS200 station. I am a hobbyist and a beginner and I was wondering if someone could recommend some common/useful tip sizes that would be good to have. Also, I will be creating my own USB cords and so I will soldering USB connectors for USB-C, mini USB, and Aviator Connector (GX16). So, if there any additional tip sizes recommendations for those, please.Also, what exactly would be the difference between the performance ones and the none performance ones? I see that the performance ones are thicker and I guess they hold more heat mass? Would that be a issue for space if I even work on a motherboard?

author: Elasia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 12:02:17 pm
content: Mostly depends on what you want to solder.. I'd suggest watching some youtube videos for different techniquesI'm also a fellow ADS200 user with one of the first production units.. still works like a champ some 2 years laterMy usual gotos are screwdriver flat tips from 1/8 to 1/4, the hoof tip for drag soldering and i also have the tweezers with the fine tip, a 1mm, and 8mm/13mm paddles for removing large two sided parts without the aid of a hot air pencilMost of the time i leave a 1/8th screwdriver on for general purpose and keep a hoof tip in the stand for drag soldering tsops and other like chips, rest i keep tubed and out of the wayI keep the tweezers loaded with the 1mm and the rest in the standAlso as far as performance, you dont need them.. only if you cant find one in the other size or they happen to be cheaperMake sure to use someone like tequipment.net so you can get the blog discount as well if your state side

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 02:18:42 pm
content: You can determine a suitable tip size from the pads you are soldering. Between 70-130% of the pad size you should be fine. I mention some good videos to watchin the ADS200 mega thread.. So chisels for smd and through hole, knife blade, miniwave then some large chisels for the bigger jobs. Here is a photo I made a while back that shows good tip selection. Note on the smaller pads it would be too large, but you could get away with two tips on this specific PCB.

author: karamba
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2020, 04:24:48 pm
content: Quote from: Elasia on May 05, 2020, 12:02:17 pmWe definitely need to push for another attempt to switch to the metric system.
PH2 screwdriver with small radius/spinning end (for fast driving) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2020, 07:31:39 pm
content: I'm looking for a precision type screwdriver with PH2 tip. I mean the kind similar to Wera Kraftform Micro, which has narrow section allowing for faster turning and spinning cap. I generally use some mix of Wiha System4 and Wera Kraftform Micro (+ the popular Xiaomi/Wiha magnetic bit set which i carry around in my document bag), but neither of those companies seem to offer a PH2 in precision driver family of products.The reason is, that many products that I have to take apart have lots of small screws with PH2 recess. Undoing them all with something that has a bulky handle makes my hands hurt.Can you please recommend anything (available in EU)?

author: Ranayna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2020, 07:51:06 pm
content: That Xiaomi Wiha set contains a PH2. At least mine does.

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 07:09:13 pm
content: True, it does, but the narrow section is short. I use it a lot, but often it can't reach the screw because it's too deep.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 07:43:54 pm
content: Once you break the screw loose from tight, use an electric screwdriver.With a non-buggered tip and pressure, you can even break lose a tightened screw. Unfortunately, the PH2 tip is designed to "cam out." Once that happens, you may bugger the screwdriver tip and mess up the screw too. That's how the 100's to 1000's of PH2 screws are removed for inspecting light aircraft.
What is the best KSGER T12 Soldering Station? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Dokroma
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2020, 05:01:08 pm
content: There's multiple versions of this soldering stations on multiple sites such as Aliexpress, Banggood etc. Which one is the best one?

author: Dokroma
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2020, 04:22:48 pm
content: Update: I boughthttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/32983347123.htmlIt has wired connections from mains rather than edge soldered joints and the case is plastic. What mods do I need to do?

author: Alokin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 06, 2020, 07:08:22 pm
content: I would simply cut the edge of the heatsink that is on the HV rail, put some kapton between the rail and the heatsink and as the case is plastic, run a wire to ground both the rotary encoder and the handle connector, if the front panel is made of aluminium scratch it under the bolts to make a proper connection.

author: Dokroma
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2020, 10:25:25 am
content: Quote from: Alokin on July 06, 2020, 07:08:22 pmThanks, I was planning to do these already. Anything else I should do? Perhaps use lower amp fuses? Aren't the 5A fuses excessive?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2020, 11:32:34 am
content: QuoteProbably intended to support the US. For a 230V country, you could probably just about halve them (Anti-surge).

author: Dokroma
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2020, 02:35:43 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on July 07, 2020, 11:32:34 amSo, I think the max watts of the station is 175W, so you need atleast a 1A fuse right? 2A is the appropriate fuse to use?
Microscope more detail than is needed for electronics , BUT  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: KD0CAC John
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2020, 11:09:23 pm
content: The thread title kinda covers it , a lot more info about microscopes [ much higher magnification ] than working on electronics [ lower magnification .But I like to learn beyond my current needs .I did recently get an open box , new Amscope 7-45 double arm with most of the recommend accessories [ excepting the camera so far ] .I had a chance to buy from the University a Zeiss electron microscope a while back for $1,200 , but did not have enough space for it .Friends said what would you do with that ---- well what the hell - I would look at stuff
PACE ThermoFlo TF3000 Rework Station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: amexlive
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2020, 12:54:31 pm
content: Dear Friends,I want to ask who have or use PACE TF3000 BGA / SMT Rework station. It's a little old but please each who have this machine to write me. I need a little information about it.Thank you in advance!Best regards
good reflector for UV LED light? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2020, 02:23:57 am
content: So I have a UV led light that has a 110 degree angle. I thought to use one of those aluminum reflectors that they use for work lights with it, and it seems to work pretty well, but there is abberations in the middle.It's a bit dented, and I was thinking about spending some time to round it off nice, but I am not sure if the cause of the reflections is due to its shape (a bit like a trumpet) or because of the dents in it. When I put my fingers over the dents, it does not really change the geometry of the abberation.For a flat star board single point LED, what should a good reflector look like? I want a really nice spotlight effect. Should it be a perfect bowl?I don't think its the shape, because I can put it floating inside the reflector suspended on a stick, in an arbitrary point, and it still shows this weird shape (like a star) in the middle, its faint but it could effect exposures.Should there be a plate over the heat sink with a tiny hole in it just to expose the top of the LED and hide the rest of the stuff? Is it reflecting off the reflector and then rereflecting off the edge of the PCB maybe?I also tried putting tape on the bottom of the reflector, and poking the diode through a hole, and it still has the weird star shape. Wtf is this from? It's not perfect but it looks pretty round. Its there if the LED is on the bottom of the reflector with tape + hole or if its just floating in the lens being suspended on a rodit basically does thisit looks like a base star from BSGnot that defined but the general shape

author: duak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2020, 07:54:06 pm
content: Could you post a picture of the LED and reflector showing how you are using them? I'm not quite sure what you're doing.Does the abberation look like the LED die and bonding wire(s)? Maybe the die is being imaged by the reflector.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2020, 08:18:57 pm
content: the led star thing is mounted to a big heat sink, and I put it on this (I removed the light bulb hardware from it, so its just the aluminum part).https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-150-Watt-Incandescent-Clamp-Light-with-8-1-2-in-Shade-HD-300PDQ/205031467I tried putting it over the LED, so the LED is at the very base, poking through a hole in tape, and I just let the heat sink sit half way in the middle of the reflector. In both cases I get the same image pattern.
Metcal RFG-30 find transformer parameter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: scrofula
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2020, 12:11:35 pm
content: Good day. I ask for help in determining the exact parameters of the transformer in the unit of the soldering station. They are needed for an order for winding the same but already under our network of 220-230 volts. I would be grateful for any information on it. I wrote a letter to manufacturers toroid.com but maybe you already have such data. TRANSFORMER #4069-C MADE FOR METCAL INC P/N 7014-7110 BOWIE MD (301) 464 2100

author: scrofula
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2020, 06:28:16 pm
content: The response from the manufacturer was very fast, I’ll leave it here m, maybe someone will come in handy.This transformer primary is 117V 60Hz, and output 2 x 14V 2.6A.
Hakko 912 iron, 942 station. What tips? Original T2 type are discontinued. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: aeberbach
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2020, 11:12:50 am
content: My station, handpiece and the tips it uses are all discontinued. The tip I have been using suddenly died today, leaving me with one tip I don't love the shape of.A 942 station is a long discontinued 24V station that came with a 912 iron. It used T2 series tips. I can't find them for sale anywhere. Anyone know anything about compatibility? I can't find much on the internet about the 912 iron, 942 station or T2 tips at all.

author: electricMN
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2020, 07:01:31 pm
content: Try contacting Hakko to see if there's a replacement for the 912 iron that uses a more available tip type.
Aoyue 936 or 936a - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Wy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2020, 10:20:19 am
content: Hi allAnyone have any experience with these stations? I understand the differences in between the 2 are the power (35w and 60w) but is it worth paying the extra money for the power difference.Live in the U.K. so a genuine Hakko is a bit out of price but looking to go for something cheap to keep me going for now, just concerned the 35w isn’t enough for soldering guitar pots. And if I spend the extra money on the 60w version, I may as well spend a little more and get a xytronic or a second hand TCP Weller or something.
Recommendations for cheap(est) full-HD USB endoscope/borescope?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mzzj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2020, 08:13:55 am
content: Ebay is flooded with cheap USB endoscopes but many of them interpolate the crappiest 640x480 camera resolution to full-hd.Any good ones with real full-HD or at least something like 1200x1600 resolution?Andonstar V160 is one but is there something more compact and cheaper?
Industrial 532nm 2000 mW laser for cutting/engraving - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: D4no0
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 02:20:27 pm
content: I got my hands on ahttps://www.ebay.de/itm/Industrial-532nm-2000mW-Green-Laser-Module-w-TEC-Cooling-Analogue-Modulation-/263356269827.I would like to use it for engraving and cutting material like plywood. The link I posted is the closest I could find, since the one I have is used and unlabeled.First I would like to know if 2000 mW are enough to cut, for example 4cm plywood?Second thing is that I would like to measure the power output, I was thinking about measuring the current usage and correlate with average efficiency of such laser diodes, would that be correct or there are another things to take into consideration?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 02:55:42 pm
content: I don't think you are going to manage to do more than darken the surface of the plywood with a 2W laser.

author: LaserSteve
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 03:06:00 pm
content: I hate to break your heart, but 2 Watts of Green tightly focused will give just the ability to burn the surface.Thick wood is very, very, difficult to laser cut. Much deeper then 7-8 mm requires enormous power levels and massive amounts of assist gas.180 Watts of Far Infrared Co2 is useful for the fast cutting of 1/4th Inch (6.25 mm) plywood, but the absolute practical limit for wood is about 10 mm in the under 500 watt class.It is very, very, difficult to go deep in fibrous organics. The amount of smoke produced is enormous. Vaporizing the resulting carbon char is difficult. The gas cloud formed in the cut gets very adsorptive, too. The edges of the finished product are discolored too.I've been there, done that...Steve

author: D4no0
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 05:25:48 pm
content: I see.Then what do you think, is it possible to change diode for a more powerful one, since judging from the power supply and diode housing it should be able to handle higher power.Also maybe it can be tweaked, the controller board has some potentiometers, however I'm not sure what is their usage, I tried to tweak them, however without changes to intensity of the laser. I tried to search for the board number, didn't find anything.

author: Tarloth
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2020, 04:50:28 am
content: As LaserSteve said, diodes power are weak to cut anything than paper or other very thin films. A 80 watt Co2 Laser is used to cut a reasonable speed (not fast but usable) 3mm of MDF, some 5 mm acrilic or something similar, even 80 watts isn't enought for most of the tasks, only do a few. Sorry, but I not know any Laser LED buyable at usual channels capable of cut anything than thin films of paper of some plastics.
Serial EPROM programmer, part 4. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: CDI1977
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 08:47:31 am
content: Tear down, repair and misadventures.Subtitle "Work in progress."Buffer RAM holds the data to be "burned" into the target EPROM. So how much time will it take to test the memory. This is not even a good test.Yes it only took 5188 seconds. That is why interpreted languages like BASIC get slammed.EPROM at address 2001h does contain an AAh. There is a machine code block starting at 2090. They refer to assembly language which is a higher level programming mode.Reverse assembly by hand. Decoding instructions is one thing. Determining the purpose of the code is another.Still some figuring to do.This chip is a Swiss army knife of programming. There are a bunch of built in 'assembly" routines. And the user can add their own.Built in subroutines.Programming example by Intel using built in hex data display routine.Repairing the BASIC programme is not difficult. But there are a lot more assembly routines lurking in the EPROM.MCS-52 BASIC tokens.Most of the data errors are on the 8th and 16th address lines.End of post.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 09:20:34 am
content: You know, this forum is not a blog. Creating several threads "Part 1", "Part 2", "Part 3", just makes it hard to read your posts, since they are not displayed together at all.

author: CDI1977
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 10:06:24 am
content: I thought that might be the case. I did not see anything in the forum guides about it. Anyway I can stop posting.Any pointers on putting stuff up on Youtube?
vacuum gasket for custom PCB exposure press - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 02:11:16 pm
content: What is a good material that can be used to make a PCB exposure press? The PCB would have a thickness of 1.6mm, with 2x translucency (i assume something like 0.3mm).I just want to sandwich plexiglass to some kind of base (aluminum?) with a vacuum pump.Would 2mm silicone sheet work? Can you determine the thickness of a gasket you could use to make a sandwich seal on something based on its thickness and durometer?Is there a better solution then cutting a whole gasket out of a single sheet, like strips you can glue together? (like something in a vacuum sealer). I thought to maybe just cut silicone tubing in half, fill it with silicone adhesive, then press it between two plates with a 2mm spacer (hopefully it would deform by 1/2 a mm under vacuum but I am not sure)
Weird HP USB safety cover. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: analogueAdder
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 11:53:21 am
content: I'm one of those horrible people that still uses paper and prefers to use an actual calculator instead of a newfangled app...And I recently got myself an HP Prime!(Is this how HP calculator keyboards are supposed to feel? It's way batter than the rubber keys on the HP 49G and feels awesome!)However the included charging cable came with a weird "safety cover" and I'm now wondering if there's a requirement in the educational market or if the included charger has safety issues. But the power brick is UL listed. I don't understand why they manufactured a rubber insert for this?

author: RobertPS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 04:34:35 pm
content: I read on the hpmuseum forum that the rubber protection block on the charging/data cable is to prevent ESD.

author: analogueAdder
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 09:25:55 am
content: Thank you, RobertPS.I found the thread that you where talking about:https://www.hpmuseum.org/forum/thread-906.htmlHowever, I'm just as confused about this. All the answers appear to be speculative.
Hakko 936 keep or sell? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: karamba
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2020, 06:02:36 pm
content: I was going through some boxes that were left unpacked from a move that happened long time ago. Among them I found a still sealed box with the original Hakko 936 and some brand new tips for it that I bought years ago. Now I need to do some soldering for my next Nobel Prize project so I need something better than a general solder I used till now, but generally I do not do 24/7 soldering. Some tweaking here and there. I wonder if I should unpack the station and start using it or sell and get more contemporary something like HAKKO FX-951.Or maybe for not so frequent use the benefits would be minimal?

author: BlackICE
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2020, 12:19:37 am
content: He'll probably work fine from those things you want to do. It was good the decade ago it still good today. Of course you want to spend money they're probably better choices today.

author: Stray Electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2020, 02:51:42 am
content: I don't have a 936 but I have a couple of 926s and I've had other Hakkos and they're excellent irons. I won't replace that one unless you need something special that it doesn't do or have.

author: karamba
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 04:06:13 am
content: I just saw a used 936 sold for over $140 on ebay. Apparently people have personal attachment to it.

author: ercapoccia
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 05:37:56 am
content: It is really difficult to go back to the 936 or 888 (i own both) after you use the 951.New style tips are so much better, especially for high power board. It depends on what you need it for.

author: analogueAdder
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 02:55:49 pm
content: Quote from: karamba on May 16, 2020, 04:06:13 amSo it's a business decision and not an engineering one?If you can sell it for the cost of a new iron that uses the cartridge stile tips then go for it.
how are banana jack plastic caps 'retained' to the thread? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 05:00:57 am
content: nmv delete this, i see they smack it with a chizzle after its inserted, just have no idea how the plastic went missing. Can these crack and fall apart doing nothing? It must have had a fracture or somethingI look at it once in a while because its visually interesting and I noticed its different. hm (came on 8904). Maybe it was shipping damage from 5 years ago that finally came through, weird for genuine HP part though
What do you think of the ultraZoom-1 microscope? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: baddogneverdie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 09:00:26 pm
content: Hi, first post here! Looking into buying my first microscope. What do you think of the ultraZoom-1?https://www.gtvision.co.uk/epages/es141397.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es141397/Products/%22UZ-1%20Series%22Being currently located in Germany, Amscope is out of the question for me. I found gtvision while reading some threads here, but being my first microscope, I could use some help

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 08:56:55 pm
content: Why Amscope is out for you? You can easy buy it on europe:https://www.eleshop.nl/catalog/product/view/id/1717/s/sm-4tp-szm7045nt-stl2-microscoop/category/423/

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 09:10:47 pm
content: If you are looking for a trinocular, choose one that issimulfocal, so you can film while working, or else you will need to manually switch between binocular view or camera view.

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 10, 2020, 10:47:25 am
content: Quote from: baddogneverdie on May 06, 2020, 09:00:26 pmFrom my experience, the Amscope microscopes are basically the same as any other SZM microscope on Aliexpress etc. I can recommend Eakins if you want a similar set up with the double boom stand.I wouldn't go for the ultrazoom 1, the base will be incredibly annoying. I captured some of my thoughts here:

author: baddogneverdie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 10:34:22 am
content: Thanks for all the replies, they have been useful. I am posting the outcome, in case it helps someone in the future. So after some more research I found out that:1. Various threads here and elsewhere reporting that Amscope, Eakins, and others actually originate from one or two factories in China2. AliExpress and Bangood shipping some of these microscopes from EuropeI ended up ordering this simulfocal stereo microscope with an articulating arm:https://www.banggood.com/de/3_5X-90X-Articulating-Arm-Pillar-Clamp-Zoom-Simul-Focal-Trinocular-Stereo-Microscope-34MP-Video-Camera-For-Industrial-PCB-p-1526293.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CZIt shipped form Chech Republic, so I didn't need to pay for customs, as I'm located in Germany. Shipping was very fast. The packaging was okay. Could had been better, but everything arrived intact.The microscope came with a manual in Chinese, stating "SZM" on the cover. I assume this is the model. It only takes a couple of hours to set it up and get your head around how it works. The image through the diopters looks great. The camera is just okay, but for the price you wouldn't expect more. One thing I would prefer is rubber eye guards to cover the sides of the eyes, but you can get these for ~$5.Overall, as a hobbyist, I have to say I am very happy with this purchase (at least so far).
Microscope - camera setup - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: BurnOut
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 15, 2020, 08:31:32 pm
content: Hi,My goal is to take 4K videos of spores at the size of 30 - 100 microns through a microscope.My question is - what is the most quality setup for this goal? Is it a microscopic camera attached to the eyepiece? Or is it a mirrorless / DSLR camera connected to a trinocular binocular / stereo microscope?What do I need to know about image crop, if I go for large sensor mirrorless / DSLR cameras (not larger than APS - C)?Also, I once inserted my mirrorless Fuji XT-20 into my telescope with an adapter, and the images turned out blurry, after achieving maximum focus. Even my smartphone took sharper images. Do anyone know what the problem is? I don't want this to happen at the microscope setup aswell.And what about image magnification? Can I know what the magnification and field of view would look like?Is there anything else I should know?Thank you!
IC extractor/protector options - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Technomancer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2020, 08:10:36 pm
content: I was recently looking at the JBC IC protectors they have for using a hot air station to shield other components from the heat and noticed that they had a an IC extractor that could go with it. Unfortunately, it looks like those are meant for the JBC rework stations that have a vacuum pump built into them. I had heard that some people like the metal protectors for doing hot air work but it seems like it might be a bit difficult to grab the component with it there without something like that extractor. Has anyone had any luck using another low-power vacuum pump with one of those or have they had luck with a similar product to the protector without needing a dedicated extractor (i.e. just using some tweezers)?For those that don't know what I am referring to:https://www.jbctools.com/accessorieshot-air.html
It looks like they have launched an upgraded version of the TS80 soldering iron. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MiniWare
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2020, 03:19:47 am
content: Looking at the introduction, the biggest upgrade is to support PD2.0 (12V / 2.5A / 30W), and there is a soldering iron head fastener, I hope someone can do a detailed review, the following review is too simple.
Has anybody tried the new Raspberry Pi camera? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 07:43:15 pm
content: The new RPI camera is going to take better lenses that are common in the used market, and it has a larger imaging sensor. (12.3MP camera with a Sony IMX477)This is definitely going to be a cut above the smaller cameras they have had up until now.https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/new-product-raspberry-pi-high-quality-camera-on-sale-now-at-50/The idea of having access to C mount lenses is really quite appealing to me because they are often available for very little used.https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=news_item&px=Raspberry-Pi-HQ-Camera
Eliminating the fan in the classic Mantis microscope with GU4 LED lamps - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: BreakingOhmsLaw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2020, 10:33:46 am
content: I set out to eliminate the fan in my 90s Mantis microscope by replacing the lighting with a modern LED alternative. The original lamp provided by vison engineering is an OSRAM 41890SP, a 20 watt job with an opening angle of just 10°. I was not able to find a suitable replacement with a 10° angle, bus OSRAM makes another GU4 socket LED Lamp, the LED STAR MR35 36° GU4, part number 075105294. The larger opening angle does not affect the amount of light where you want it, as these lamps have 345 lumen where the halogen one had only 205, so if anything, the image is even brighter.More importantly, at just 4 watts each, the energy consumption is reduced by 80%, so the amount of heat generated is significantly less as well.To determine if the fan could be omitted alltogether, i did some measurements.This unit is not designed for easy service. Replacing the fan normally requires taking the entire thing apart because it is plugged into the PCB in the inside, and as most screw are self-tapping this is not a procedure that should be carried out too often. In order to disable the fan without taking it apart, I just removed the fan cover, cut the cable to the fan and put a Dupont connector inbetween. I extended the cable of the fan a bit so I could put the connector in the airduct to the lamp. Reactivating it only requires removing the lamp cover now.After replacing he lamps with the new LED ones, and fitting the right lamp with a temperature sensor, it was time to reassemble the unit.The lamp temperature eventually settled at 74.2°C after 90 minutes, which is well below the 85°C operating limit in its datasheet. The lamp windows never exceeded 43° and feel colder than before.I took a thermal image of the vents, which feel cool to the touch, and indeed, the maximum temperature is just above 32°. The air temperature measured in the lamp cavity was around 45°C. You can see the warmer air rising from the vents in the picture. All in all every part feels less hot than before - without the fan running. I will certainly check again in the summer when the temperature in my lab can exceed 35°. At normal temperatures around 22° the Mantis can now run indefinitely without a fan. Silence is bliss.

author: esprits4s
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 06:11:22 pm
content: Thanks for posting this. I'm going to give these a try in my Mantis! I'm going to try and find a U.S. source. All the Google links that came up were in Europe.
Looking for reliable pin-out of a HP DPS-750RB (or similar) server power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: neo2001
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2020, 09:15:17 am
content: I have a few of those, mostly to power chargers. Since these devices are commonly used for this, there are a bunch of tutorials and howtos out there. But basically all of them only tell you to put a resistor between certain pins to power the device one (similar to a ATX power supply). But what I'm looking for is a more detailed description of the pins exposed on the back of these devices (like those in my attached image).As far as I know, this format is called CS or "common slot", but there seem to be different versions with different numbers of pins.For example some put a resistor in between two certain pins, some use a bridge. Some descriptions say to pull down the PSON pin to GND (which doesn't do anything on my device). But connecting the outermost to the shorter pin does the trick for me. Still, I'm not sure what exactly I have connected now. I measured if there is any current flowing between them and since there was virtually none, I just used a wire to bridge them. One of the pin delivers 12 V standby voltage, another one 3,3 V and one 2,5 V. Now I wanted to add a LED to signal standby state, but don't want to use 12 V standby for that. But I'm not sure which other pin I could use for that. It would be really helpful to have some kind of pin-out or datasheet for this. But unfortunately unlike ATX this doesn't seem to be publicly available(?).Does anyone here know more about this standard?

author: neo2001
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2020, 02:31:24 pm
content: This is what I found out:The resistor that most people use between the PRESENT pin and the PSON pin is basically just a hack.To allow for the the device to turn on, the PRESENT pin must be pulled up, for example with a 22 k\$\Omega\$ to the 12 V standby voltage.Then (and only then) connecting the PSON pin to ground will actually turn on the device.The "hack" resistor seems to pull up PRESENT and to pull down PSON at the same time and at a certain resistance value.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2020, 08:49:06 pm
content: Some other attempts to hack those PSUs:https://colintd.blogspot.com/search/label/HP%20Common%20Slothttps://github.com/raplin/DPS-1200FBhttps://github.com/slundell/dps_chargerI have hacked one into a 4S lithium charger, at this point it sort of works but runs hotter than I like when the battery is close to full charge. It would probably be better to hack it to charge a 3S lithium pack (just need to add a current limit circuit) or 12V lead acid or 4S LiFePO4, since in my experience it's when the voltage goes above 15V or so it starts heating up.
suspicious tool - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2020, 06:51:51 am
content: 🤔Is this a good idea?https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/hotwave#/faq

author: ETITsynthesizer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2020, 02:51:14 am
content: I don't think so. he looks like a nice guy.
The Octo-Bouncer - Arduino based project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jm677zz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 06, 2020, 08:10:03 am
content: Arduino project with 120 FPS OpenCV image processing and smooth stepper motor moves. The machine calculates the ball's 3D position from the image processing data and uses this information to control the orange ping pong ball.

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2020, 03:47:39 am
content: Wow, that is just so very very cool. Does it ever mess up?
SARS-CoV-2 real time detection using a graphene and antibody based FET. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2020, 02:50:03 am
content: "Rapid Detection of COVID-19 Causative Virus (SARS-CoV-2) in Human Nasopharyngeal Swab Specimens Using Field-Effect Transistor-Based Biosensor"It looks extremely simple!its just a bare FET made out a a special graphene substrate coated with the antibody.(Almost like Jeri Ellsworth's home made semiconductors.https://hackaday.com/2010/05/13/transistor-fabrication-so-simple-a-child-can-do-it/)Can be used in semi real time. Its almost as sensitive ad a good test, and quite possibly more specific.Where I live we have a big problem with COVID-19 and entire families are getting it and they dont test people unless they are already obviously in bad shape. A lot of people just get sent home and told to self isolate because they have not been able to get tested. Some people suddenly deteriorate while at home, several days in.If they could test people early on they would give them drugs earlier and that would likely reduce the number that needed to go into the ICU.In this situation electronics really seems like the way to go. No delay in getting an answer at all!"Sensing MeasurementElectrical performance was evaluated on a 2634B semiconductor analyzer (Keithley Instruments, Cleveland, OH) and probe station. A drain–source bias voltage of ∼10 mV was maintained during measurement. The detected electrical response signal was normalized as [ΔI/I0] = (I – I0)/I0, where I is the detected real-time current and I0 is the initial current.""Finally, we tested the detection performance of the COVID-19 FET sensor using clinical samples (Figure ​Figure66A). To this end, we collected nasopharyngeal swab specimens from COVID-19 patients and normal subjects and stored them in UTM. Prior to addition of patient samples to the device, we evaluated nasopharyngeal swab samples from normal subjects to determine the basal signal. The COVID-19 FET sensor clearly discriminated between patient and normal samples (Figure ​Figure66B,C). In addition, the FET sensor responded to patient samples diluted as much as 1:1 × 105 (242 copies/mL) (Figure ​Figure66D), and the normalized response curve of the FET sensor was linear (Figure ​Figure66E). Given that UTM includes various reagents and generates noise signals, we consider the LOD of the COVID-19 FET sensor to be low enough for practical use Table S2. Nevertheless, development of novel materials of the FET sensor for UTM should be necessary for more accurate detection by reducing the noise signals. For reference, the detection limit of current molecular diagnostic tests of COVID-19 is ∼50–100 copies.28 Taken together, our findings show that our COVID-19 FET sensor successfully detected SARS-CoV-2 virus from clinical samples without any preprocessing and with a large dynamic range."https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7172500/
RS Pro AT937 soldering station - 936 clone - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Wy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 30, 2020, 12:44:22 pm
content: Anyone had any experience with the RS Pro AT937 soldering station? Or any of Rs Pros gear?https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/1611962/Judging by the model number it’s basically a rebranded Atten 937. (I’m guessing now that Atten are RS’s brand anyway??)I know there are varying build qualities with 936 clones but being RS Pro I imagine their some level of standard in the build quality.Any experience with their branded tips also? Can it use Hakko tips?
Hakko FX888D or Xytronic LF389D - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Wy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 28, 2020, 02:03:18 pm
content: Hi allAge old question again, but my maplin station recently died so time for a upgrade.Torn between a Xytronic LF-389D for about £80, or fork out a bit extra on the Hakko FX888D for about £130 which obviously has a good rep.Also been recommended a Velleman VTSSC50N as a decent cheap iron, but seems like their irons are of the rebadged variety like Duratool and my old maplin one.Is it worth spending the extra £50 on the Hakko? (If I did then the LF 1600 would be another option.This would be used for PCB and guitar/instrument work.Any advice appreciated
FX-888D 220v vs 240v - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sverzijl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2020, 11:04:58 am
content: Hi all,So I decided to buy myself a new soldering iron and found the Hakko FX-888D on Amazon. Once it arrived I did some inspections to make sure it was genuine (it was phew) only to discover that it's the 220V Chinese version - I live in Australia with 240 V (well 230 V)I'm guessing that it will likely work - however I noticed that there are 240 V models and the PCB seems to indicate that a 220 V model is not the same as a 240 V.Should I be concerned about using it? If not - why did they make a 240 V and a 220 V version?