Finally chosen a power supply! Siglent vs Rigol :-) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 12:39:18 am
content: I have been battling with myself. The DP832 just seems so big, so then I look at the DP711, and it looks great, and tidy, and less weird (odd one-colour LCD) than the DP832,, but it's really tall (twice the height of the DP832 and all of Siglents units). So I tune in on the Siglent single-output unit - it's not double-height like the Rigol 711, so I'm almost sold.But I can't shake the feeling that one day I'm going to wish I had just one more output.. at least one more output anyway.Anyway then I decided to check the size of the bigger Siglent out, vs the Rigol. Jesus! I'm sold on the Siglent SPD-3000X-E (-E being the lower resolution version).Now, being an IT tech person, I really ought to have been able to do this on computer, but... I got the masking tape and tape measure out. Check out the size difference between these two. Also the siglent is 12mm shorter in height.

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 04:38:11 pm
content: SometimesSmaller cabinet means noisier (faster spinning) fan/Bingo

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 05:13:41 pm
content: Don't forget to check how deep they are too, and compare to the depth of your bench/shelf space. Maybe the Siglent is deeper than the Rigol to provide a similar-ish internal volume?I just had to swap a 250mm shelf with a 300mm shelf to fit my new Agilent 34461A.

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 06:20:54 pm
content: Quote from: TERRA Operative on July 17, 2018, 05:13:41 pmNo, look, you can see the depth there! The Siglent is smaller in every way. Although, it doesn't have current limit control on ch3. ch3 is pretty basic if I understand correctly, but that's fine. I only need 1 or 2 really. 3 may add some convenience.It's being delivered tomorrow anyway

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 07:13:59 pm
content: Quote from: bingo600 on July 17, 2018, 04:38:11 pmNot really in this case, though. Been using my SPD3303X-E for about a year now and the fan barely even turns on until you start drawing a lot of power from it. A lot of the size of the rigol is actually the mounting feet and stuff, whereas the Siglent is just a box. An adjustable third rail and current readout for it is great, but the Siglent is cheaper, smaller, and otherwise pretty comparable.

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 09:48:28 pm
content: The Rigol is 42cm deep, vs 28cm for the Siglent. It's a huge difference.And the Siglent is also narrower and less tall. (is there a word for that? shorter??)

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 09:55:53 pm
content: You’re in the UK. Look at TTi power supplies:https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113107476949Not mine for ref.100% silent under full load. Will run at full whack or short indefinitely unlike some cheap end chinese crap. Full service manual available. Dual tracking 30-0-30v @2A, parallel 30v @4A, series 60v @2a or both floating. Not crazy deep so fits on the bench. Current limit. Current damping. Also acts as convenient shelf for digital scope. Oh and made in UK.And only £150 (or less if you shop around).And if you need more outputs plug down £50 in the future for a single channel one. I’ve got two single channel units I paid less than 40 for each. (PL310 and PL154).National Physics Laboratory use the same units for the cesium beam clock they run.

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 10:02:08 pm
content: Quote from: bd139 on July 17, 2018, 09:55:53 pmWell it's a bit late now!! :-) but thanks !I was previously looking at new TTi stuff from Farnell, but they were pricey.Anyway, in case my masking-tape on floor-tiles diagram wasn't very clear, I did some improvements to it in ms paint..

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 10:04:04 pm
content: DP832 is noisy. I didn’t buy one because of that.Plus also it has some weird referencing across the three power supplies. Have a look in the manual.

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 10:04:45 pm
content: Quote from: bd139 on July 17, 2018, 10:04:04 pmYeah I did hear of people swapping out fans.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 10:12:58 pm
content: Quote from: carl0s on July 17, 2018, 10:04:45 pmYouwillbe happy with SPD3303X-E noise as DaJMasta has said, they're very quiet unless hammered and then more a whoosh rather than a howl.Bit more grunt than the TTI unit for when you need it too.Getting some SPD1168X's today so will post more about them later in their thread. Power ON overshoot screenshots and that sort of thing.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 10:18:07 pm
content: I’m interested in the SPD1168X. Would make a good radio bench supply as my PL154 could do with some more amps. Please post a link to the thread on the TEA one or PM me

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 11:59:31 pm
content: Quote from: bd139 on July 17, 2018, 10:18:07 pmUnboxing stock now but it'll be a bit before I get onto this so don't wait up and I should have something for you for your breakfast time.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-spd1168x-siglent-psu/

author: Leiothrix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 01:44:08 am
content: Quote from: carl0s on July 17, 2018, 12:39:18 amThat's the exact same reason that I got the Siglent too.Comparing specifications, interface and reviews it gets a bit hard to decide. "Will it fit on my desk" is a nice binary decider though.

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 12:53:12 pm
content: Quote from: Leiothrix on July 18, 2018, 01:44:08 am:-) yep, it is!It's arrived today, I had a quick look at it while at the office and it's a beauty! Back in the box in my car now, and will be finding a spot on the desk for it tonight

author: JanJansen
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 03:13:12 pm
content: That is the one with the loose plugs.

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 06:22:05 pm
content: Quote from: JanJansen on July 18, 2018, 03:13:12 pmYes but this has been discussed on the forums and it's not actually a problem.What I don't understand though, is why the PSU is telling me it's in CC mode, when it's actually supplying a constant voltage as the current draw is under the set value.I can't do anything to make it change from CC. Except switch the channel off - then it says CV.I am a total newb, so am I missing something?

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 06:24:32 pm
content: I tried the same test on CH2 and it behaves as I would expect. Hmmm

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 06:56:37 pm
content: Seems I have a duffer :-/The display/indication on CH1 will not change from CC to CV. Ch2 is fine. I've just downgraded firmware to 1.01.01.02.03 and that's made no difference.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 08:01:27 pm
content: If a PSU goes into CC mode it's normally an indication that you haven't got enough current dialed in or there a problem with the load itself.For now you should dial in the full A output in the Set box and see how it behaves then.I've got one here if we need to work through this online somehow.

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 08:25:29 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on July 18, 2018, 08:01:27 pmJust uploading a video for you to check out... 10 mins.. Thanks

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 08:45:30 pm
content: https://youtu.be/O1HJAVE-b4Eand a follow-up:https://youtu.be/1ivjeXsOMNY

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 08:50:45 pm
content: God damn auto-focusI'm not a video maker ;-)

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 08:55:43 pm
content: Vids were fine and display issue clearly, thanks.Give me a bit to get a unit out and check some stuff....

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 09:04:17 pm
content: The only change I made to the unit before switching on, was to change it from 220v on the back to 230v, because I am in the UK. I suppose there could be some obscure bug where doing that destroys some part of the circuitry. Seems a bit far out though.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 09:07:30 pm
content: First, can you try this reset to factory default:Hold Fine and power ON and release Fine when the boot process has ended.Does the CC issue remain ?You said earlier you'd downgraded the FW. Did you return it to the latest version 1.01.01.02.05 ?Operating voltage setting is close enough and shouldn't impact at all on CC.

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 09:21:13 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on July 18, 2018, 09:07:30 pmYes the problem remains. I can confirm the reset worked, because the stored previous-values are cleared. I tried the procedure twice to be sure.Quote from: tautechYep I've returned it back to 1.01.01.02.05

author: PA4TIM
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 09:25:44 pm
content: Could it be they soldered in the (duo color ? ) led the wrong way ?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 09:28:43 pm
content: OK, bugger !If it's getting late over there just check what I come back with in the morning.I'm gunna check CC functionality in this unit I have and if what you see isn't right I'll send some emails and come back with advice on what to do next.Quote from: PA4TIM on July 18, 2018, 09:25:44 pmGreat question !@carl0sCan you give us all but the last couple of digits of the SN# ?

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 09:32:22 pm
content: Quote from: PA4TIM on July 18, 2018, 09:25:44 pmbut the CC/CV in the top right of the TFT display also doesn't change.

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 09:34:29 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on July 18, 2018, 09:28:43 pmI don't tend to go to bed too early :-)I have bought this from a good UK distributor so I have no worries that I'll be looked after properly with warranty, but at the same time it is a curiosity and would be interesting to know what the cause is. Even better would be if it was something simple and they'd let me open it up and fix it with their guidance. I'd get some satisfaction out of that :-)S/N: SPD3XHBX2R16-- (left last two off like you asked)Hardware version: v3.0

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 09:39:59 pm
content: I have another question:What does the rotary-encoder push/click do? I can't see any function that uses it, yet it's there. It's a push button. They could have used it either for Timer On/Off when you have it highlighted, or to move to the next element when dialling in stuff. Actually the only thing I can see that it does is confirm the IP address settings if you push it while in one of the ip/netmask/gateway fields.Ooh nevermind I see, it gives you a special emergency firmware upgrade power-on thingOh, and the file store/recall.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 10:02:49 pm
content: Grrrr, no your unit is not right !I have a factory fresh SPD3XHBX2R17** and CV/CC modes work outta the box.Can you handle this OK with your supplier ?Let me know if I need to send emails.

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 10:06:48 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on July 18, 2018, 10:02:49 pm:-) Yes I've sent them an email. I'm sure they'll be good.Thanks for all your help though and checking another unit

author: Mr. Scram
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2018, 04:09:27 am
content: Are these Siglent units not the same as GW-Instek GPD-3303S, but with a fancier display?