$120-$150 Budget build to learn Soldering. Need opinions on my selected parts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: OntoTheWoods
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 28, 2024, 05:57:49 pm
content: I would first like to preface this by saying that I do not live in the US, but rather in the Philippines. That's why some prices are cheaper, and some items like the Pinecil v2 are more expensive to procure.ModelProductPricePTS200 v2 AluminumSoldering Iron$21Aneng 683 TouchMultimeter$15Hayve 7" HD 1200X 12MPDigital Microscope$39.5Yihua 8858-V (I don't think this is enough, more info below)Hot Air Station$19Yihua 948DQ-IFume Extractor$15Goot GS-104 MediumDesoldering Pump$14Anker Atom 2 60wIron Power Source0GRAND TOTAL123.5Soldering Iron - PTS200 v2 - $21I've searched reddit and found a couple commonly recommended Irons such as the:Pinecil v2 - $40.TS80P - $49HS02 - $31PTS200 v2 - $21 (just because the seller is doing a sale + coupons, original price is around $32)The Pinecil V2 and ts80p are one of the most commonly recommended budget Irons I've seen on that sub.However, I do think they're a bit outdated (but can be seen as a testament to their reliability) and based on the 2024 posts I've seen, the HS02 seems to be showing up quite a bit.But after digging deeper, I've seen the PTS200 v2 come up a few times, and just from a pure spec-wise comparison, The HS02 and PTS200 v2 seem to be the same in terms of build quality and having the ability to reach 100w.However, the similarities end there, the most glaring difference is their shape, and I find the PTS200's shape to be subjectively better. The PTS200 also use the ESP32, which theoretically could run IronOS, although official support for it is still currently unavailable. Although there's a custom firmware out for it, not that I know much about that, I just wanna plug my Iron and dissolve some solder. PTS200 can also accommodate t12,t13,ts tips.So there, that's how I decided on the PTS200 v2. I crossed out Pinecil/ts80p because they're twice the price, has less max power, and are less durable. I crossed out HS02 because if it's the same as the PTS200 in terms of build quality and 100w power, the next most important thing to consider would be the shape and then tip compatibility.Aneng 683 Touch - $15Any multimeter would've probably worked for my use-case. The design, recharge-ability, touch screen, manual mode (compared to the 681/682) and extra bells & whistles @ this price was just too attractive to pass up.Hayve 7" HD 1200X 12MP - $39.5Seems like a decent plug-and-play solution at an attractive price.However, I'm a bit on the fence on this one as I have particular setup in mind wherein I could build a 4k streaming digital microscope. Would be a cool project to do once I get the hang of soldering.I could potentially can get a 4k Sony imx 678-based Microscope + Orange Pi + 4k capture card for around $110 and build my own 4k microscope set that can stream to my iPad Pro or 4k screen. Maybe add in another $15-20 for a built-in battery pack that I could read the power from as well and throw it to the feed for a truly wireless experience.Software-wise, it seems fairly easy to do in theory, but that's because I'm a programmer and already made much more complicated web apps. Just setup Nginx as your web server, install a video encoder, setup to encode the video sent by the capture card, encode to something like rtmp, have Nginx serve it using the device's local ip address (or your ddns of choice). Access web server from my iPad/Phone/PC. I just need to study the hardware side.I also own a 3d printer, so I can definitely create the perfect housing for this, maybe even include some fans.Yihua 8858-V - $19Looks like a decent hot air station for its price, and from a known brand at that. Can't really find another hot air station around this price. Currently getting the version 5, which was probably released around 2022-2023. The only gripe I found online with this one is that some people have a hard time triggering the auto shut off due to the angle the holder has. I could very easily design and 3d print a better-angled holder to alleviate that problem. Or if the filament can't handle the temps, just make an angled base to rest the device, so it leans more and easily activate the auto shut off.HOWEVER, I received a reply from someone who actually ones the 8858 (but maybe not the exact V version) that claimed that this was simply underpowered air volume-wise and burnt their board.So I may have a bit of leeway on the budget for this one as I can see myself using this tool equally as the iron.So far, here are the new models I picked out:RF4-H5 = $75. Got the idea from this post:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/rf4-1000w-hot-air-rework-station-rf-h2-$125/Forward FW-HA01 = $66. It looks like it's based off of the H5 (or is it the other way around? Both were released around 2-4 months ago). It's not a 100% rebrand, but the knobs, number of memory buttons, heck even the pump looks very familiar to each other. And what even confirms my suspicions is that they almost have the same specs. Both can do 800w, 50L/Min Airflow, brushless turbine fan, 13000r/Min fan speed, 80cm handle. The only difference they have in their specs is that the H5 can do up to 480C, whereas the Forward can do up to 500C. And the H5 uses a Nixie display and the Forward uses a segment display (which I admit to be unfamiliar with, so I asked Claude and it said that the segment is much more durable). Haven't really seen this brand recommended, but they seem to be focused on mobile repair, and have a couple high end products as well. Their website also looks clean and professional (to be fair, as a web dev, you could easily spin up a site like this in less than a week, but I appreciate that they took the time to design it well, use https, and even purchased a .com domain).RF4-H6 = $45Yihua 959D II = $40Yihua 858D = $23Yihua 948DQ-I - $15Nothing much to say. A cheap and decent fume extractor from a known brand. I guess this is better than nothing. I have a 650cfm Dewalt fan (would most definitely not max it though) that I'll angle a bit toward it to help with the air flow and blast any remaining fumes. There's the II and III versions, but they all use the same extractor, the difference is that the latter ones have extra stuff that I already have.Goot GS-104 Medium - $14I was leaning on the SS-02 but found a forum reply @https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/engineer-ss-02-solder-sucker-or-other-nice-desoldering-pumps/of someone who has the SS-02 and Goot pump, and he seemed to lean more towards the Goot.Anker Atom 2 60wI was gonna buy a 100w power bank, but since I only wanna work on pcbs, I decided to just use my existing charger, seeing that pcb work is mostly <=60w.Final thoughtsAs for the flux/solder/attachments for holding the items, I opted not to include them since they're fairly cheap enough to experiment with. Also, some of the brands suggested in this sub aren't available in my country. My plan is to just get the smallest rolls from a couple of brands and practice with them on a test board to see which one is more effective.I really only wanna learn soldering, this wouldn't be used in any commercial capacity, I'm looking at 10-15 hours a week of usage. I'll be happy if this set lasts me 2 years. I think that's enough time to determine if I wanna go ahead and splurge on the big guns. I've already learnt my lesson in spending too much for things that I quickly lost interest in such as power tools, gym equipment (to be fair I still use some), airsoft, drones, cameras, etc.

author: K5_489
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2024, 06:15:52 am
content: It might just be the old fart in me, but I just don't understand the draw to all these "smart" irons, especially so when I see reports of people frying them left and right just from using the wrong USB power supply on them. And then a need to be constantly updating them...how many firmware updates does it take to heat up a stick of steel to a set temp?Reliability you say? I've been using the same Hakko 936 soldering station for almost 20 years now...and for the few times I needed to take a soldering iron to the work instead of the bringing the soldering work to the bench, a Weller butane iron...also for about 20 years.I suppose an argument could be made for a need where 99% of your soldering had to be done off bench...Or if canned butane is a pain to obtain wherever you are.Something I've seen reported time and time again on a lot of these "off brand" irons are the tips are absolute garbage, but seem to work well once replaced with genuine Hakko tips, when the irons are built to use Hakko style tips, of course. Which would be one of my big recommendations - get something that uses Hakko style tips. Eventually you're going to want something other than a basic point or chisel tip, and there's a bunch of different sizes & shapes in the Hakko line. Geniune Hakkos are so cheap that there's really no reason to run the clone garbage.I feel genuine Hakko is worth the money, and my first inclination is skip all the extras, get yourself a Hakko soldering station, andhave fun. But I understand budget is budget, and my next thought is to get something like a Yihua 936 or 939. Save a few bucks, roll it towards your next gear buy once you decide yay or nay on this.Fume extractor - you want something that sucks the fumes away, not blowing across your work, especially if you're dealing with SMDs. I know it seems like semantics, but it's important. You also don't need super high airflow for this. All you're after is getting the soldering fumes directed away from your nose so you're not directly inhaling them. Honestly, I don't even bother for most of my work when it's just a quick resistor or cap changeout, and have done tons of work with nothing more than a simple computer case style pancake fan set on edge on my bench.Skip the hot air station for now. There's definitely an art to using one effectively, getting it wrong can quickly destroy a PCB, and you're probably not going to use it much while learning the simple stuff first anyways. This is one of the things you really don't want to cheap out on. You really want something that can blow of LOT of really hot air quickly, so you can get in and melt the solder fast and get back out without heat soaking the parts. Until you get a feel what it takes to melt and flow solder quickly, you're just going to break things with a hot air station to the point of not being able to repair them, and just do it faster with a cheap hot air station.Same with the microscope. You're going to need a good feel for this to begin with, and that's going to be amplified 10 fold when you're dealing with parts tiny enough to need a microscope. Jump right in to that on day 2, and you're likely to just get frustrated enough to want to bin it all and move on to the next hobby.

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2024, 07:00:35 am
content: Get a real soldering iron. You'll end up spending the same once you factor in a power supply and a cable. You really want silicone cables hooked up to the iron.Spend $75 or more on the iron. Don't worry much about anything else until you learn how to solder. And you don't need much more than an iron, a multimeter, and an inspection loupe for that.

author: Solder_Junkie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2024, 07:46:57 am
content: Stick with a proper soldering station, Hakko or Weller. Use only genuine tips and branded solder.A digital camera is hopeless for SMD soldering, you need stereo vision from a binocular microscope. The Swift type with two LED lights is pretty good. Also needed is a low profile PCB holder for SMD work on small boards, such as those used to repair mobile phones.This video shows you all you need to know about hand soldering both through hole and SMD parts.https://youtu.be/eZtPR8_x0nc?feature=sharedSJ

author: SteveThackery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2024, 08:09:26 am
content: About the microscope. There are two things I can share my experience with. Firstly, make sure the microscope provides enough working space under it. Secondly, lag. One of the mics I bought had a nasty delay in the video feed to the monitor, making it very difficult to work with it. Fine movements are very difficult to control with a delay in your visual feedback loop.Also, there's the problem of 3D. A simple mic plus screen gives you a detailed picture of the work, but with no depth information. Makes you clumsy. That's why I no longer solder like that. For most work I use a good quality "visor" with optical glass lenses, and if you haven't used one before it's a transformative experience. Importantly you see in 3D. For the really small stuff I use an optical binocular microscope. Again, you see in 3D, and again it's a transformative experience.

author: nmcgann
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 05, 2024, 10:33:00 am
content: Quote from: Solder_Junkie on October 05, 2024, 07:46:57 amThat is a good video. I’d also recommend the “Mr Solderfix” channel, there are some great SMT soldering videos on there. I followed his advice and got some 0.25mm solder (lead free) for doing SMT work and that has massively improved the joint quality and consistency I can achieve.I second the good iron+tip+solder advice - I have a Weller TCP station that is 40 years old and a Hakko FX888D that I got recently, both are very good.

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2024, 02:34:14 am
content: LOL! The OP has a budget under $150 and everyone is recommending he spend 5 times that. Folks, not everyone can afford the best equipment in the world .. and they don't need to. I have an old Hakko 936 station and I have an even older Weler. Guess what I use 90% of the time? A FNIRSI HS-01. Yup, a $30 iron. Why? because it heats up faster, maintains temperature better, is smaller and lighter and is cheaper to run. So, it might be easy to brush me off as a know nothing newbie, but no, I've been soldering since I was 10 years old. That's 57 years of experience including at least 10 years doing it as a part of my profession from production line, through production re-work and on to CET.Even a cheap Hakko FX88DX or an equally cheap Weler WE101NA will blow his entire budget, yet they are not great performers compared to something like the $30 HS-01. I know from actual, real experience. Yes, having actually used all of these. To get the performance of something like the HS-01 from a Hakko where the heater and sensor are built right into the tip, and it will heat up from cold in 8 seconds, and from standby in 3 seconds and will shut itself off it you forget for safety and to prolong tip life, you'll need to spend a lot of money. Alotof money. Yes, it will last longer and will perform better, but replacement tips for it cost more than the whole HS-01! And .. he does not have $900 to spend on an iron.My grandfather used to use a soldering iron he heated up in a bed of coals. He swore by it. Made his living with it. No one uses those anymore. Don't knock these little smart irons until you have put them to use for a few hours. They work, and they work well.Let's not get into $900 binocular microscopes!To the OP, your list looks good. It will do what you want and if one of those items is not putting a smile on your face, there are other options you have for replacement when funds permit. Please don't get discouraged by the equipment snobs. The most important thing is for you to get started and your list will get you going. Once on your way you can decide if you enjoy electronics enough to continue and upgrade your equipment or not. I think you are taking the right approach. The only thing I don't think you need to get started is that digital microscope. I can't imagine it would be a great performer. A good magnifying glass you can mount on a retort stand would probably be a better choice for about the same money. Just my opinion and I could be wrong on that as I don't have any experience with that particular DM, but I've had access to similar items that left a lot to be desired.

author: shabaz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2024, 03:05:21 am
content: Quote from: BillyO on October 06, 2024, 02:34:14 amUnless some messages are deleted and missing, I don't see that at all. Everyone above appears to have offered suggestions that are well within the budget.

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2024, 03:14:20 am
content: Quote from: shabaz on October 06, 2024, 03:05:21 amOh, really? My mistake.Since you are so sure, please give the model numbers of a Hakko soldering station and a binocular microscope where you can get both for under $150.The absolute cheapest iron you can get from Hakko is $100 and it is and absolute POS. So, now you have to get everything else, including the suggested binocular microscope, for $50. I'll stand by for your revalating response in great anticipation ..

author: shabaz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2024, 04:49:09 am
content: One person who suggested a Hakko station advised not to get a microscope for now. Another person explained that a digital camera would be a disappointment and suggested a microscope. I don't think they suggested that the OP should now hold off and not buy a soldering iron until they had saved up a thousand $. They reiterated that a proper soldering station is advised. That's very good advice. Yet another person again advised against a digital microscope, and made the suggestion of a head-mount magnifier. They are excellent.Anway, if someone really did want a binocular microscope immediately, what's wrong with Craigslist/Gumtree type websites? That's precisely how I got my binocular microscope, so it's possible. Even new microscopes do not have to cost a lot; but personally if you ask me (well, even if you don't), I'd advise a second-hand binocular microscope at that sort of a budget. That's if they really need it. A head-magnifier works great and is low-cost; worth the OP considering that (and the good advice that was given) if they have not already done so.You certainly can buy cheap brand new binocular microscopes at low-cost. Is it advised for a beginner? Certainly not, so why even raise a challenge of fitting a $125 budget on that, plus a soldering station?What's with the dumb popcorn and fizzy drink emoticon? It's childish, grow up. You're just being argumentative and that's of no benefit to anyone, especially not the OP.

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2024, 08:27:53 am
content: Quote from: BillyO on October 06, 2024, 03:14:20 amNot sure why you're copping an attitude. No need here for that.Basically there's no point in buying too many things until the first skill is learned: how to solder.If cheap tools are purchased so "all" of the tools are purchased, then the effort becomes self-defeating.Step 1: Get a decent soldering iron and learn how to use it.Don't skip to needing to do anything that requires a microscope until step 1 is accomplished. No need having a microscope until you can do step 1 well. If having the microscope causes step 1 to never be accomplished well, then the microscope should not be bought at the beginner step.Basic project management: when resources are limited, focus on the critical path. Don't spend resources on anything but the critical path. If you spend resources on other things you may never need the other things because you never got past step 1. Microscopes are nice, but you don't really need one. A $10 hand loupe works just fine. The loupe is for inspection. (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Carson-Minibrite-3x-Pocket-Acrylic-Lens-Magnifier-with-Built-in-LED-Light-and-Sliding-Case-Gray-PO-25/11186221?wl13=1383&selectedSellerId=0&wmlspartner=wlpa).Now when you move past the beginner stage and do so much work the loupe is slowing you down then you can consider the microscope. Hopefully at this time you have acquired more resources.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2024, 09:04:11 am
content: A combo hot air and soldering iron station (e.g. YIHUA 8786D) is worth considering - not instead of a soldering iron that takes cartridge tips (integrated heater), but in addition to. Hakko 900 style tips are dirt cheap and if they are a decent fit to the element (shim if necessary), the 907 style iron is more than adequate for less demanding soldering tasks + you have less clutter on the bench. Because the tips are cheap you can afford a wider selection. When you encounter a difficult joint, or are out in the field, grab the PTS200 or similar cartridge iron.Also its always good to have min. two irons otherwise what do you do when your one and only iron goes wrong and you need to fix it?

author: xvr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2024, 01:58:56 pm
content: QuoteExactly! I've got my first iron at age 10 (take or give), and microscope at age 40. And I still don't need fume extractor (at age 57). Do not hurry.

author: K5_489
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2024, 12:22:44 am
content: Quote from: BillyO on October 06, 2024, 02:34:14 amGenuinely curious....how is $60 five times as much as $150? The math doesn't seem to track here, but I'm always open to new ideas...

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2024, 12:32:56 am
content: Quote from: K5_489 on October 07, 2024, 12:22:44 amWhat is $60? A Hakko soldering station plus binocular microscope (and no, just no, on that plastic thing from the sex toy shop)?

author: Andree Henkel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2024, 11:27:39 am
content: Things you should start with, and which you should notSoldering Iron:YesHot Air Station:No, something for laterMultimeter:Yes, you will need the continous check mode with beep, you need sharp and small tips at your probesdon´t buy DMM with fixed attached probe cable, but with banana Jacks and included probe cables.fast beep is important. the beep beep thing is just the one thing this "meter" needs to do really nice.sice of display and backlighting is not that important for your app, as well as meas modes, digits and accuracy,but: Auto power off is must have, if possible with way to disable, you will curse every timeyou forgot to turn off and battery is emptyMicroscope:No, something for laterMore important is a good light: LED Ring light with *3 magnification, lights your workspace, and for smaller components you look through italso a magnifying glass *7, much cheaper than µsope, you need the money for the ringlightfirst is much more essential than µscope, second will postpone need for µscopeSoldering pump:No, I solder almost every day, and never more need feel need for one, I have sure used them. Only useful if you do a lot of through hole desolderinginstead get a good solder wick, which is essential for SMD, but handles through hole as well:https://www.reichelt.de/de/en/desoldering-wick-1-5-m-1-5-mm-edsyn-sw021-15-p247901.html?r=1this is best I ever used, It is tinned+flux , which greatly improves capillary action compared to just copper+fluxSolder: don´t underestimate Importance, don´t buy just cheapest alloy, more expensive ones are especially great for learning soldering, as the appearance of joints is better, so you can learn to evaluate the quality of your solder joints better.First you have to decide unleaded or leaded.I use leaded, to avoid damaging prototypes (like torn pads) by the higher melting temp of unleaded solder.Best leaded solder I use: 0,5mm Diameter, ofcourse flux, eutectic Sn62Pb36Ag2, the 2% silver make a differenceOther stuff needed right at start:*soldererin iron stand - if not included with iron or station*sponge for tip cleaning or wool for this purpose, if not included with Iron / stand*soldering tip tinner*pair of tweezers for holding small components*in case you want to deal with wires:#side cutter#wire stripper

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2024, 12:22:24 pm
content: Hot air is increasingly necessary to even work with modern parts. You'll curse any attempts at reworking any SMD IC if you don't have it, and good luck soldering a QFN IC without it - the center pad is essentially unreachable by soldering iron unless its your own board and you design it with one or more large through-plated access holes in the pad, which makes it unsuitable for standard SMD assembly processes. If you aren't interested in component level stuff and only need to solder wires and headers to pre-assembled modules you can do without.Desoldering pump (aka:Solder sucker): *YES* - its good for bulk solder removal not SMD stuff but when you need one the alternative would be to use up desolder braid by the meter! However *DON'T* buy an expensive one. The cheap blue plastic aluminium barrel ones with the machined shaft are entirely adequate for a beginner, provided their plunger O ring is kept lubricated with light silicone oil or silicone spray lube, and only cost a few dollars. DON'T buy one with a pressed U section shaft - they are absolute cr@p - See:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/need-a-new-solder-sucker-suggestions/The visible difference when buying is a machined step and taper groove right round the shaft up near the plunger cap - if its got it its OK if not its junk!

author: Andree Henkel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2024, 01:09:07 pm
content: regarding Hot air: you are surely right.But he is short on budget.So I suggest to skip hot air and µScope FOR NOW and spend the money on ringlight, accessoires and better tool quality.

author: K5_489
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2024, 07:50:17 pm
content: Quote from: BillyO on October 07, 2024, 12:32:56 amQuote from: K5_489 on October 05, 2024, 06:15:52 amhttps://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Professional-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B07RVMZNYR/Yihua 939D+, currently $53.99.Later on in that same post of mine, right after telling OP to skip the hot air station for now -Quote from: K5_489 on October 05, 2024, 06:15:52 amAgain I ask - how is $60 five times as much as $150?

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2024, 09:26:05 pm
content: Quote from: K5_489 on October 07, 2024, 07:50:17 pmQuit trolling!Quote from: K5_489 on October 05, 2024, 06:15:52 amThis tells me you have no first hand information to share. You also first suggested a Hakko station - minimum ~$150, and it's no great shakes.Someone else suggests a stereoscopic optical microscope - Let's suppose you can get one that has real glass in it's optics used for t$150. I seriously doubt it though. Someone else suggest only use top name-brand solder - There's $65 for a 1lb spool of Kester or the like. Someone else suggests a better DMM, so throw in another $60. What are we at now? $425? Beginning to look like 3x the budget of $125-$150 to me.A single Hakko station that's worth its salt is 5x just by itself.I didn't call any one person out, so why are you trolling me?Just more elitist BS

author: Old Printer
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2024, 12:14:33 am
content: Five years or so ago I bought a Hakko FX888D as my first "solder station" and I like it very much. Head and shoulders above the standard irons I have used for years. I am sure Weller sells an equivalent. I paid $100 and they are $120 now. I moved up to a FX951 just because I got a good deal on a nice used one. I would recommend something in the class of the FX888, a good quality magnifying visor and a bright flexible work light. I would also skip the lead free stuff, unless you have a very good need for it. Regular solder will be easier for a beginner to work with, the lead free can come later, if at all. Be careful of counterfeits for the Hakko stuff, buy from a known dealer.

author: J-R
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2024, 06:49:30 am
content: Another drive-by post. Will the OP ever return to observe the aftermath??There's no denying that if you just want to get some gear to play with on a tight budget, the cheap stuff will get you started. And I think that was made very clear by the OP.Side note, Hakko recently released the updated FX-888DX and the current sale price here in the US is $97.17 with free shipping and gifts:https://hakkousa.com/breast-cancer-awareness-2024-promo1

author: K5_489
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2024, 08:34:38 am
content: Quote from: BillyO on October 07, 2024, 09:26:05 pmNo, you didn't call any ONE person out. You quite literally called EVERYONE out, and now are shockingly digging your heels in deep on showing how wrong you can beNow excuse me while I throw away all my perfectly functioning gear to try out some cheap stuff that dozens of people have reported is garbage, just so I too will have "first hand experience" to report that it is in fact...garbage.I'd wonder how people like manage to survive on a day to day basis, but there's not enough psychedelics in the world to make it make sense...

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2024, 03:21:02 pm
content: Quote from: K5_489 on October 05, 2024, 06:15:52 amThanks for the tip!I had never thought of that before.But I solder too rarely to need an extra device for that.I just tried the handheld vacuum cleaner that I already have.It works perfectly!Absolutely no more fume in my nose.

author: K5_489
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2024, 06:51:33 pm
content: Quote from: Aldo22 on October 08, 2024, 03:21:02 pmGlad someone found my ramblings useful other than displaying how they can't do math...or read...lolI've done the same thing with a Datavac, with a window exit hole panel I fabricated. The small hose size made it relatively easy to use on the bench without relying solely on the filters to clean the exit air, but I figured if I mentioned that, someone would lose their mind over my "suggestion" to use a $500 vacuum for a fume extractor. Little did I know...