hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Hilbert filter designer iowa hills  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: salviador
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2023, 05:15:43 pm
content: Hi,I can't find the "iowa hills hilbert filter designer" free software.Does anyone know where I can download it?(the original site hasn't been working for a while)Thank you

author: RAPo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2023, 05:21:05 pm
content: Build it yourself from:https://github.com/hayguen/iowahills_dsp

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2023, 05:23:15 pm
content: Quote from: salviador on June 03, 2023, 05:15:43 pmI don't know what the Iowa Falls software does, but if it just designs the usual FIR implementation of a Hilbert transform that is so simple it really doesn't require special tools. If you want one of those tricky Hilberts that shifts both the real and imaginary so they are mutually 90 degrees apart at all frequencies, that does require some clever tricks. Even that is only a couple of pages of Matlab.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2023, 05:36:13 pm
content: i want the original software too, it sounds interesting, mat lab does not

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2023, 05:46:16 pm
content: Quote from: RAPo on June 03, 2023, 05:21:05 pmThat's not the source for the designer. 30s of arduous Googling got me to this pagehttps://www.reddit.com/r/rfelectronics/comments/z0bz78/iowa_hills_filter_software/from which someone seems to have made a backup copy of the Iowa Falls software on a Google drive account.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2023, 10:53:34 pm
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on June 03, 2023, 05:36:13 pmthese tools have very bad dynamic range and very limited tuning options. It can be used for a simple filter with low dynamic range.MATLAB allows you a lot of options to tune it and provide very good dynamic options. It allows you control almost everything and in addition to show the frequency and phase response with any details and even perform test DSP for a WAV file. It allows to optimize cofficients for specific hardware, compare result for for fixed point and floating point coefficients, add compensation and many other features, like different algorithms for filter calculation and optimizations depends on your needs and even more it can produce FPGA or C code and other

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2023, 05:30:57 am
content: I believe you but a simple app that can offer a solution without a project to implement is golden
HIP4081 Charge Pump Diode Reverse voltage? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dazz1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2022, 04:32:07 am
content: HiDoes anyone know what reverse voltage is applied to the charge pump diodes in an HIP4080/HIP4081?I plan to drive a bipolar motor load with 48VDC.The reason I am asking is because I only want to use one type of diode for all circuitry. I want that to be a Schottky diode, with only 40VDC max reverse voltage.If I have to, I would just use a vanilla silicon diode, but that would add to the BOM line count.
HIPOTRONICS HD115A HIGH voltage power connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Crambone
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2023, 06:30:56 pm
content: I picked up a HIPOTRONICS HD115A AC/ DC Hi Pot tester and it didn’t come with output cables. HIPTRONICS wants around $800 for them and that’s just crazy! So I’m looking at replacing the through cabinet jack and making a test cable. I’m looking for some suggestions on what direction/ type to use?Drew

author: fcb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2023, 07:15:55 pm
content: Alot of 'custom' HV connectors use a standard 4mm socket at the very bottom of the socket assembly, the male part is usually a PTFE (or similar) with the 4mm male on the end. For 800$ you might want to make your own.Or you could replace with SHV connectors, be careful though - 5kV is standard, 10kV is available and I've heard they go higher. You might get away with 15kV on a 10kV connector if you aren't at high-altitude and maybe add some extra RTV.

author: Crambone
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2023, 10:30:23 pm
content: I looked at those but not sure it would work for the unit, it has a positive and separate negative connector. I’m guessing I could just use some HV cable to center pin.
Hirose connectors - what does the Cavity No. mean? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 01, 2020, 03:37:13 pm
content: On many Hirose connectors, there is a cavity number on them. It's actually a letter, but the datasheet calls it a Cavity No.Any idea what it is? Is it just a revision number ? That would seem redundant when they have a lot number already.e.g., page 4 of this d/shttp://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2691091.pdfSomebody just finally bought some of those from me on eBay, and until I took out the microscope I wasn't actually sure I'd found the right part in my collection. I noticed mine say D35 on them.. so they are a D cavity.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2020, 12:05:14 am
content: The cavity of the mold in which they were originally produced?

author: fcb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2020, 12:13:25 am
content: Quote from: amyk on April 02, 2020, 12:05:14 amThis.The injection mold tool will have multiple cavities within it (I've seen them with between 2 and 64), so that each cycle of the tool (10-60 seconds) will produce multiple pieces keeping the cost per piece down. Any wear or faults are more easily traced to that section of the tool.

author: carl0s
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 02, 2020, 08:34:42 am
content: Ah, amazing. Thanks!
History of MOSFETs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: aargee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2015, 12:10:00 am
content: Hi all,I have a supply of older MOSFETs (BUZ series etc) and I think they are seriously inferior to modern designs, hyper static sensitive gates, etcThis has got me wondering if there is somewhere on the web that has a brief history of FET/Mosfet designs (Trench, HEXFET, etc)..Sort of like a Readers Digest condensed version...Really trying to decide if these devices are still valid for hobby use or not worth the effort but curious about the basic technology.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2015, 05:46:15 am
content: Beats me...With power devices, I think the basic progression is:- Research; materials science improvements; first offering of small devices (e.g., 3N136?), targeted for small signal and RF amplifier applications- Which were lateral devices (actually built the same way the cartoon diagrams show). Scaled up, larger devices were used for audio and RF power amplification. "Freedom from 2nd breakdown" (due to low power density -- an engineering bug rephrased as a marketing feature!).- HexFETs (IR?), introduction of the first practical power switching devices (80s-90s?)- Vertical technologies (V and Trench MOS, ca. 90s-00s)- Advanced VDMOS, Superjunction (00s-10s), elimination of Rds(on)-Vdss^2 tradeoff

author: aargee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2015, 07:07:47 am
content: Thanks, that'll do for now.The Wikipedia article is not too bad either:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET
Hitachi LCD interfacing and information. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: pappkopp
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2017, 09:08:16 pm
content: Hello everybody.I got hold of some old Hitachi LCD modules, and i need to get some datasheet or information on interfacing this to A MCU.LCD Module: Hitachi LMG 7010 PLAGEDisplay controller: hd61830b00

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2017, 09:16:47 pm
content: Here is datasheet -http://www.lcd-module.de/eng/pdf/zubehoer/hd61830.pdfRegards, Dana.
HiTEC HS-5495BH Hobby Servo - Internal Motor Model No. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: SNEAKxxATTACK
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 28, 2017, 11:07:55 pm
content: Hello all,I'm working on a project and I am looking to find out, if they are even provided by the manufacturer, the motor characteristics for the internal motor found inside the HiTEC HS-5495BH Servo.What I am looking for are the motor constants for use with my dynamic model. So I am hoping to find out the model and therefore the manufacturer so I can hopefully grab these values.Servo Linkhttp://hitecrcd.com/products/servos/sport-servos/digital-sport-servos/hs-5495bh-hv-digital-karbonite-gear-sport-servo/productMotor Constantshttps://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_constantsI disassembled my servo and attached pictures. Hopefully those out there who have some more experience with manufacturer labeling can help out. As I am unable to decipher the characters that are rubbed off.Thanks for reading.SNEAK
hittite t2200 series reverse engineer effort - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Aiy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 08:13:28 pm
content: Hello Everyone,I have an Hittite T2220 unit which is a sweet 10MHz - 20GHz synthesizer unit. As far as I can tell, the 20, 40 and 70GHz Hittite synthesizer units are universal for the 10M to 20G range. For the higher ranges, the units rely on an plug-in extender module to provide the extended frequency range(s).I wonder if any (legendary) forum member would be willing to take their T2240 / T2270 unit apart and provide detailed photos of their synthesizer/ extender internals.I asked Analog devices support for schematics / support in this pursuit, but they declined support on the grounds that:QuoteSo, anyone keen on this pursuit?

author: Aiy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 08:28:15 pm
content: Some pictures of the main PCB.I believe there are additional pictures on xdevs.Best regards,Aiy

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2023, 08:51:19 pm
content: This article has a lot of VERY high resolution pictures, it seems that this a product based on Xilinx Spartan3 FPGA, some anemic NXP LPC arm MCU, for the front panel and GPIB and whole cornucopia of AD HW stuff, most likely long gone.https://xdevs.com/article/hmc2220/So what exactly you want to accomplish, reproduce those plugins, replace the firmware and make yourself a cool 70GHz generator? Not possible, because:1) This is a strategic, export controlled thingie, and nobody will risk going on the ad side of uncle Sam.2) Those generators are EXTREMELY rare, nobody sane will disassemble one of the 40/70GHz range risking destroying it (because if a mouse fart near those connectors, they will be unusable).3) The stuff that was used was either never available for public (70GHz) or long gone (40GHz), so even if by miracle (not chance), someone will offer a plugin to disassemble and analyze, you won't be ever able to reproduce it.Sorry to be a doomer, but after the experience with Anritsu and R&S synths, once is gone, is gone, if the defect is in SHF stages.DC1MC
HK Inventory, likelihood of fakes? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Boscoe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2018, 08:18:44 am
content: Hi all,Recently I needed to source an old microdisplay driver IC which would have been difficult to source even if they were still made. I found them on HK Inventory and sent out a request and tons of responses. The part was made in very high volumes so I thought the risk was low enough for me to risk $50 of getting some and giving them a go.Thing is, after I see that the chips I've ordered work to the datasheet spec. I would like to order some image sensors. Image sensors are often kept behind NDAs and annoying distributors who what to know your life story before you even get a datasheet, some are a lot easier like On Semi where you can just buy the sensors from Arrow. What do you guys think the likelihood of getting fakes from this place is? Image sensors are going to be a higher cost and so don't want to risk hundreds of $ in this case.ThanksBoscoe
Hlk-pm01 input fuse and required filtering? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Hixfield
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2017, 04:34:33 am
content: I am using thehttp://www.hlktech.net/product_detail.php?ProId=54PSU brick, it works very nicely and is cheap (approx 2-3 usd on aliexpress). See this nice review:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/performance-test-and-review-of-mains-to-5v-0-6a-hi-link-hlk-pm01/In v1 of my PCB I just connected it straight to the mains without any fuse or filtering.Now I am designing the updated PCB and when reading the review I am wondering:- should I add a fuse on the mains input for safety? Are there any (CE?) regularions that makes this mandatory?- what kind of fuse? Resettable?- should I add some filtering or something? Also to meet regulations?I dont have much space, so any suggestions for small smd fuses/filtering would be appreciated.

author: Hixfield
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2017, 06:45:59 am
content: Given the number of replies I guess its not such a intelligent question :-)I did some further research and found this article:https://skippy.org.uk/quick-look-at-the-hlk-pm01/It contains a diagram with a fuse (800ma,http://be.farnell.com/bussmann-by-eaton/c310fc-800-r-tr1/fuse-pcb-0-8a-250vac-fast-act/dp/2464451) and a varistor (http://be.farnell.com/epcos/b72210s0271k101/varistor-43-0j-275vac/dp/1004390).I decided to order from conrad so:Fuse :http://www.conrad.be/ce/nl/product/537512/ESKA-883116-Printzekering-Radiaal-bedraad-Hoekig-800-mA-250-V-Traag-T-1-stuks/SHOP_AREA_17392Varistor:http://www.conrad.be/ce/nl/product/500592/Schijfvaristor-S10K275-430-V-Epcos-S10K275-1-stuks/SHOP_AREA_17441I feel confident about these choices but if somebody could provide a second opinion that would be nice.

author: Sjoertdb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2017, 08:57:30 am
content: Maybe this thread might give some good information as well:https://www.element14.com/community/thread/56397/l/ac-mains-on-a-pcb?displayFullThread=true

author: Hixfield
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2017, 07:44:44 am
content: Thanks for the link, this confirms my proposal!

author: beic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 11, 2018, 11:39:29 am
content: I know it's a old topic, but I'm little bit confused about varistors.B72210S0231K101 and B72210S0271K101 from EPCOS / TDKare these interchangeable with the:10D241K and 10D271K from BURNSThank you!
HM-10 BT module  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: fcb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2016, 03:56:59 pm
content: I'm looking at an inherited design that includes an "HM-10" Bluetooth module. I'm a bit concerned that the module is not available in a stable format (i.e. we can get hold of it for a few years and that the firmware doesn't keep changing etc...), more comfortable with designing the base chip in than buying chinese modules.http://jnhuamao.cn/bluetooth.asp?ID=1The module is basically a CC2541 with a couple of xtals, passives and a printed antenna. I'd rather not roll the CC2541 code myself and we are using the device in UART mode only.Does anyone know if the firmware is available for the HM-10? Or does anyone have experience implementing a simple UART with the CC2541??

author: fantasy2
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2016, 07:13:26 pm
content: If you buy a module you can simply take the firmware out. It is also discussed a lot at TI's own forum and there is source code available.I used this chip for a simple UART bridge and works great but slow.

author: fcb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2016, 05:06:08 pm
content: Speed is not really an issue in this application.I'll look into downloading the firmware from the CC2541 - I suspect that it will have the code-protection fuses blown though..
HMC5883L Compass Tutorial (with Arduino Library) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: loveelectronics
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 12, 2011, 09:37:40 pm
content: Hello,I've put a tutorial about the HMC5883L 3 Axis Magnetometer up on website here:https://www.loveelectronics.co.uk/Tutorials/8/hmc5883l-tutorial-and-arduino-libraryThe compass allows you to calculate your bearing to magnetic north, I've provided an Arduino Library (but you could port it to your fav microcontroller) to control the device, and also given instructions on how to actually calculate the bearing on a level plane.The next tutorial is to cover how to incorporate a triple axis accelerometer to provide tilt compensated data.I hope someone finds it useful, and not intrusive to the forum.Cheers!
HMI cabinet panel holder fixture - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rvalente
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2016, 06:31:30 pm
content: Hello Mates,I'm developing a device mechanically similar to a HMI, which is assemble in the electrical cabinet door.I've seen different ways to fix the device on the door, usually for holding the HMI on the door some brackets are provided, such like these:Does anyone knows a supplier for these parts? I'll buy 200 parts or so
Hobby Laboratory Reference Frequency Oscillator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: EVlab
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2016, 07:33:22 am
content: Hello all!I would like to discuss some ideas / aspects on a hobby laboratory reference frequency oscillator.First of all, I thought to take a FE-5680A rubidium standard as they can be found on eBay in quantities.Then I read some articles about noise of such devices and the short term stability.Next, the question is, how often I will need long term stability or if, in most cases, one would only need a good short term stable reference for an afternoon hobby-lab measurement.A rubidium standard is nothing one would switch-on and –off too often …Right now I’m thinking of having a OXCO that is connected to a PLL. The ref-input of PLL could be connected to a rubidium or GPSDO.Standard would be just to turn the OXCO on for quick measurements and have the rubidium only switched in (48h before?), if I long term stability is key.-> Is there a better / other solution?-> Can someone recommend a good OXCO with voltage control, low noise and that is available on secondary market?It would be nice to share some ideas!Best regards, Simon
Hobby vs PRO tests - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Mark IV
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2015, 08:13:19 am
content: Hi All,An open question:When I'm working in a new project, all I do about testing, is related with functionality. This screen shows what I want, this transceiver is sending info, this sensor is OK...What kind of tests do you do in PRO design?

author: AndyC_772
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2015, 08:34:31 am
content: Yikes! How long do you have....?The simple answer is "it depends". Basic functionality might be all that's needed.For anything being sold, EMC and safety testing are mandatory - but company policy or technical requirements might imply the need to conduct tests thare are outside the legally required minimum.Anything going into an environment that's not benign might need temperature, shock and vibration testing.There might be long-term reliability testing ('burn-in').There may be testing across a large population of prototype units, or other forms of testing to see what happens when parameters such as voltage or frequency are at (or outside) the various limits in the design spec.Do the wires break when they've been flexed a few times? How robust are the buttons? Can this product survive being wired up incorrectly by a complete, total, utter moron? What happens if it comes into contact with oil / water / whatever noxious fluid might be present in the same place as the product?

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2015, 08:47:55 am
content: Quote from: Mark IV on October 23, 2015, 08:13:19 amMeasure every single voltage/current/capacitance/inductance/temperature/etc. in every wire and trace on the PCB. Make sure it's within spec.
Hobbyist project emissions testing... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: westfw
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2018, 08:51:58 am
content: Suppose I am a hobbyist with some basic test equipment (an oscilloscope) and parts, and I'd like to do some basically qualitative or comparison of RF emissions of home-built projects. Nothing that would pass for actual product testing, of course, but ... something that would allow you to look at a PCB vs a breadboard, or "look at how emissions go up if I attach a 6inch wire to the micro's crystal oscillator output!", or (perhaps most importantly?) "this is terrible" vs "this doesn't look too bad."I guess it'd essentially be a sort of broad-spectrum radio receiver with a "received power" indication?Is that possible? Reasonable to construct from ordinary parts? I don't really care about specific frequencies (I don't think.) Just sort of overall "leakiness"...

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2018, 09:59:48 am
content: What about using a laptop SDR with external antenna,that way you get to see amplitude and frequency and can make whatever probe suits your needs

author: mmagin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2018, 11:49:59 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on March 20, 2018, 10:00:55 amA microwave oven is not an effective Faraday cage, except at 2.4 GHz due to how it relies upon the geometry of the door flange being a quarter-wave trap. You'd be better off taking a metal toolbox or filing cabinet and adding some sort of conductive gasketing / contacts to the openings.
Hoefer 3kV PSU and current leakage protection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: PartialDischarge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2017, 05:38:30 pm
content: Some time ago I bought a new unused 3kv power supply. However I guess this one is for electrophoresis or whatever technique and as such has a couple of weirdprotections, "open circuit", and "current leakage".The open circuit problem I solved by adding some resistors inside, however the "current leakage" protection prevents me from connecting the negative terminal to earth and powering circuits that are ground referenced.any ideas?

author: PartialDischarge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2017, 06:09:29 pm
content: hmm, I believe I found a resistor to measure the current on the negative output, however not yet on the positive side.
Holding voltage under load with buck boost converter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: BernieX
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 19, 2019, 11:06:41 am
content: I have built a 3D printer. It is powered by a 24vdc/20amp AC line powered supply. The 24vdc output is split to first power the heat bed of the printer at the full 24vdc and second feeds into a 24vdc to 12vdc buck boost unit. The 12vdc feeds the control board-computer to intern operate stepper motors and heat the hot extruder end. When the printer is operating I am not getting the heat at the hot end (powered by the 12vdc coming from the buck boost) that I feel is due to voltage drop. When heating the voltage at the output of the buck boost drops from 12.7 when not heating to 7.8vdc. Is there a buck boost unit available that will not loose voltage under load or is this a primary power feed problem—(the 24vdc power supply is to small)? The heating element inside the hot end draws 2.6 amps when powered by an independent bench supply at 12vdc. Thank you.

author: ejeffrey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2019, 12:01:15 pm
content: What is the 12 V buck-boost rated for? There certainly exist 24->12 V supplies that can handle that much load. Is this a commercial supply? Was it designed to go with this 3D printer or did you just use a random supply you had around? Have you modified the printer? If the power supply is part of a system designed to work together it should be rated high enough. It might be that something in the controller is broken and drawing a large fault current causing the voltage drop.It seems unlikely that it is a problem with your 24V supply but you should definitely measure the 24 V rail with everything on to see if it is dropping a lot.
Hollow FPC Connector Soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: cemkalyoncu
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 04, 2014, 07:20:01 pm
content: Does any one know how to solder a hollow FPC connector? Like the one in here:http://www.buydisplay.com/default/3-4-inch-240x160-dot-matrix-lcd-display-serial-interface-black-on-whiteI can think of two methods, not sure any of them will work. First is to cut the insulated part at the end and solder like regular FPC connector, second is to solder wires on top of it. First one risks ruining it, second one might not be reliable. Any ideas?

author: DanielS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2014, 07:41:33 pm
content: Hotbar soldering: put low-temperature solder on the pads, flux the cable's exposed pads, put the cable on top of solder pads, reflow, done.What do you reflow the solder under the flex with? If you want quick and repeatable results, you use a hot bar, which is simply a soldering iron with a tip large enough to reflow all the pads in one shot.

author: cemkalyoncu
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 17, 2014, 01:17:45 am
content: Thanks Daniel, I will give it a shot. I don't have a hot bar or a tip that large, but I think I can manage it without one.

author: Aleksolder
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2014, 02:02:36 pm
content: A hotbar is not simply a soldering iron. It does indeed have a wide tip to suit the FFC dimensions, but it works in a more exotic way: when having all the SMD parts reflowed, also get solder reflowed onto the FFC pads. Then mount the pcb into a jig that holds the pcb and the ffc part together in the correct alignment; you may have noticed some FFCs have alignment holes in them: these align with pins in the jig. Then slide the jig into the hotbar machine, which is a kind of press, and lower the hotbar,which at this point is a coldbar, onto the FFC. The hotbar quickly heats, melts the solder, and then quickly cools while still pressing on the FFC, to ensure that the FFC does not come off with the raising of the hotbar.Very fancy, machines start around $4000, Chinese junk aside, with no meaningful upper limit.For one-offs and prototypes, just use a receptacle. If you really want to solder, it's not difficult, but use a tip that is like a cone with the tip sliced off, tin the pcb pads before you start, but do not touch the FFC with the iron until you have it held in place onto the pads somehow (the FFC does not require tinning or flux), tack one end, then drag without much pressure. You'll see solder will have come up through the little binding holes in the FFC pads. I've done dozens, it usually works fine, but removal generally means destruction, hence the suggestion of a receptacle.
Home Assistant ESPHome - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Lindley
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 11:37:20 am
content: Hi,Just a bit baffled by exactly how HA operates and looking for a few basic answers please.We have heating control program running on a ESP32 using triac output modules and gather we can load HA and the ESPHome on to a PC to run it.Whats not clear does our ESP32 just become a sensor slave or can we program the ESP32 to do its own actions or even run its own local LCD or TFT screen.Similarly if the PC goes down, can the ESP32 still function independently and directly control the heating smart plugs which would replace the triac modules ?

author: darkspr1te
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 12:48:12 pm
content: Within HomeAssistant is a plug in system,within the plug in system are one for factory based exp32 devices (tuya, phillips etc) and a plug in system for programming your own code/options to esp32 devices. The two i use are ESPHome for running my own code (arduino style) and HACS for flashing prebuilt code systems (handy for touch screens)you have not mentioned the exact device so i cant advise what full options are available to you.I use many different devices with my HA system, my main 3 phase uses AT4P Tuya smart meters/controller with benken wifi chips instead of esp32. i also have pump controllers on esp32 with lcd and they are flash with ESPHome and work even without HA, i can use my phone on the network or in person.If the pc goes down what you tend to loose is logged data, most HA connected devices work fine without HA available except in the cases where HA is crucial to monitor+control then you will want to learn ESPHomes code side and put in controls direct on device.Hope that helpsdarkspr1te

author: HarryDoPECC
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2025, 08:00:34 am
content: ESPhome runs on the ESP32 and can be independent of the upstream Home Assistant server. Plenty of scope for logic on the ESP. If you design it so.I have various ESP32 boards, each running ESPhome, and doing specific jobs. Eg running a solar hot water booster. Home Assistant provides setpoint, and receives results, but the ESP is otherwise independent and continues to run its job if the Home Assistant instance goes away.I prefer this model: Home Assistant provides a front end to send commands and collect results, while the ESP devices are designed to do their jobs independently, with the assumption that the Home Assistant may come and go.

author: ahsrabrifat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2025, 05:37:07 pm
content: You can define automation directly in ESPHome. With ESPHome, you can program the ESP32 to read sensors, control outputs (relays, triacs, smart plugs), and process logic locally. If the smart plugs are Wi-Fi based and require MQTT or Home Assistant commands, then ESPHome alone may not control them if HA is offline.But if the smart plugs support local control via ESPHome (Sonoff with Tasmota or ESPHome firmware), then the ESP32 can still communicate with them directly.
Home automation on the cheap - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Erwin Ried
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2014, 07:17:10 am
content: It is reliable electrically to use a thin 4 wire fax cable for automation? My idea is to have an arduino on the roof, with a relay board, the lights are connected to this setup, and the wall light switches receive the fax cable (1 led, and the switch).I don't want to use rs485 for example, up to what distance this will be reliable? will this catch some electrical "magic" from the air and mess the arduino? (I am guessing the maximum cable distance will be <50 mts)This base system will only replace the switches with digital counterparts, nothing fancy, the second stage is to get a rasbperry to talk with the arduino so the states can be modified from the phone, etc.Thanks!

author: lapm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2014, 12:35:50 pm
content: In theory and maybe some praticality, yes.. It can/might work, your mileage may vary...How long cable you can use depends entirely what sort of signals you are driving throw them and what sort of cable it is... 50 meters and arduino hooked at end? I would not try that without optoisolators and using 12 volts signalling. Longer cables usually need better drivers and im not so sure arduino is best choise for that when we are talking significant cable lenghts.That fax cable sounds like some sort of thin flat phone cable or something... Just in case might want to consider something with twisted pairs and proper shielding.

author: Erwin Ried
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2014, 04:01:32 pm
content: Thanks but 12V signaling instantly adds complexity :/ I know it should work in theory but I don't want to have unexpected behavior later using 5V. Can you suggest a simple circuit to add 12V? or do you think using rs485 it is just better?
HOME AUTOMATION TO STRIVE FOR ----- This dude is GENIUS -  put him on the show!  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: CaveMannDave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2023, 08:03:22 am
content: Dave:Check this guy out: he has built just about the most ambitious Home Automation system imaginable.Well engineered and unbelievably inclusive, mechanical, electronic, and custom PCB s, this guy seems to have thought of every detail.I'm amazed at the completeness of his detailed efforts.I would suggest his work deserves an episode of your show, as an example of total system engineering.You might even try to contact him for a special guest appearance on the show to critique his design decisions.https://youtu.be/pS5DQIiOTp8?si=2ohw4FCNtIyIMBOMhttps://youtube.com/@NathanSweet?si=LtQL7ex1Nbjg63LlCheers,Dave Cole
Home brew PSU - Custom front panel - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: IanJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 26, 2014, 07:37:30 pm
content: Hi all,My own home made PSU is about done technically.......and now my focus is on the enclosure. I have chosen one but would like swap out the plain steel front panel with a custom made item, with all the cut-outs and screen printed text etc.Any ideas for a UK based manufacturer?I could easily produce an AutoCad scale drg with all the detail.Ian.

author: kroonder
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 26, 2014, 08:19:15 pm
content: Hi,German Schaeffer ships to the UK for reasonable Prices:http://www.schaeffer-ag.de/index.php?id=8&L=1They specialize in custom front Panels and have for, what, decades or so.Regards,George.

author: IanJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 26, 2014, 10:34:05 pm
content: Quote from: kroonder on January 26, 2014, 08:19:15 pmGreat!.......and they even provide an easy to use cad app to design the panel etc.Ian.

author: alexandrecvl
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 05, 2017, 12:26:32 am
content: I don't know if you still have interest, but consider using my solution for both front panels (panels.mwf-services.com) and PCB enclosures (box.mwf-services.com). They were specially designed for electronic designers. Pay attention to the customizable slots in the cases, you will never have nothing like this in those chinese extruded aluminum cases. Additionally, they can be integrated to the custom front panels.

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2017, 03:17:14 am
content: I'm guessing in the intervening 3.5 years that he's found a solution or given up.

author: ZeTeX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2017, 02:24:34 pm
content: Quote from: alexandrecvl on July 05, 2017, 12:26:32 amI guess you are new to forums, usually, you don't "bounce" old threads up, they are useless. Sometimes they might even ban you for doing so.
Home Entry using Car Key? (RTL-SDR?) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: 0xPIT
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2017, 07:21:37 am
content: Hi,I was annoyed this morning about the number of keys and key-like tokens I need to carry.So I though:Car Key -> RDL-SDR on a Pi / ESP32 -> train to detect individual key -> FET/Relais to trigger door buzzerWould it be reasonable to decode some bit sequence from the key's transmission?Would that be possible without actually decrypting, or is the encrypted data over the air cryptographically randomized properly?cheers,pit

author: DBecker
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2017, 04:04:26 pm
content: What type of car key?Are you willing to press a button, or are you expecting a proximity key to work?Most older key and remote entry systems use 315MHz or 433MHz transmitters with a rolling code. Generally the rolling code has a fixed prefix and a LFSR where only part of the state is transmitted. Aftermarket systems tend use a PIC in the transmitter and receiver, while factory systems use specialized chips from their main vendor (e.g. Motorola, Philips, ELMOS).A quick start on the project is to buy 433MHz and 315MHz receivers from FleaBay, about $1 each, and see if you get level changes when you press the transmitter button.Keep in mind that typical rolling code receivers will lose sync after 31, 100 or 255 button presses that they don't track, so be prepared to re-sync if you do lots of experimentation.

author: ejeffrey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2017, 05:00:36 pm
content: No need to buy a receiver just to test that. Just look up the FCC ID on the back of the fob. For instance, my toyota keyfob has FCC ID:HYQ / 14ACXWhich if you look up on the FCC website you find operates at 314.35 MHz. You can also get external and internal photos, and EMI test reports.This keyfob has both an active mode and a proximity mode, and since the car uses pushbutton start, it has an emergency RFID mode for starting the car with a dead fob battery. I don't know how the proximity stuff works, but I assume it needs to be triggered by the car. If you want to use that, you will still have to see what the car transmits to the fob.
Home LED lights - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2015, 12:35:17 am
content: We have been using LED lights for a few years now. 80% of our lights are now LED. The other are a mix. Some of the early LEDs were way too dim to be useful and we had some that failed really early.We bought some a while back that if they were on, they would knock out the radio and TV.The two plots show the difference of the great radio station bulbs vs a quite bulb. The radio transmitter covers a nice broad band and does an excellent job!Using mostly CREE now. Had one fail after about 6 months. Was replaced free of charge. I have one I am trying as an outside light. Happy with them so far.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2015, 03:17:10 am
content: I've had a 100W aliexpress LED in my work room for 6 months.Cost US$22 with a 110-230V current limtied powersupply.Then the LED blew up 2 weeks later. So i ordered 5 more 100W LEDs ($20 for 5) and they sent me 10I replaced the dead one with the best looking of the 10 (based on even turn on voltage) and it's been working good ever since.
Home made reflow plate toasting PCboards. What is the trick? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jorgemef
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2023, 02:35:46 pm
content: Hello,I built myself a reflow hot plate base on eletronoobs design ->https://electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_tut161.php.I added my own code and implemented 3 profiles.//{"leaded",{"Preh",RAMP,60,150},{"Soak",RAMP,120,165},{"Refl",HOLD,20,225},{"Cool",RAMP,120,50}},//{"lead-free",{"Preh",RAMP,60,150},{"Soak",RAMP,120,180},{"Refl",HOLD,15,245},{"Cool",RAMP,120,55}},//{"dessolder",{"Preh",RAMP,60,150},{"Soak",RAMP,120,180},{"Refl",HOLD,15,245},{"Cool",RAMP,120,55}},Had to adjust somehow how it works as the plate is not fast enough to heat on the reflow phase even with PID maximum. At maximum it heats at 1-3ºC/s depending on the ambient temperature, and has a lag of 15-20s, so for the reflow step the code is relying on the time more that on the inpu/output temperature.{"leaded",{"Preh",RAMP,60,150},{"Soak",RAMP,120,165},{"Refl",HOLD,50,225},{"Cool",RAMP,120,50}},{"lead-free",{"Preh",RAMP,60,150},{"Soak",RAMP,120,180},{"Refl",HOLD,15,235},{"Cool",RAMP,120,55}},{"dessolder",{"Preh",RAMP,60,150},{"Soak",RAMP,120,180},{"Refl",HOLD,15,235},{"Cool",RAMP,120,55}},Anyhow the profile looks good but my issue is that the lead free profile toasts the PCB.Even the leaded profile which I add the plot in attachement burns somehow the PCB.In the image, from left to right, original PCB, then pcb with leaded profile attached as well then lead-free profile results.I tuned the temperature reading on the board surface with BM869s so the mentioned temperature is really the temperature to which board was exposed.So what is the limitation with this kind of process? I noticed that 63/37 starts melting/flowing when plate reaches around 210-215 but is flowing well with 225 but then fr4 is toasting.BR,Jorge
Home made servo motor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ahes
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2012, 06:17:16 pm
content: Hey there.you know I've been lately working on my robot arm projectand my first decision was to work on steppers.but I knew that the hobby servo motors (that's used for RC airplanes ) is simply a small dc motor with a pot as a feedback device.I tried to make my own servo mechanism ( digital controlled system)I've used ATmel AVR mega8 as the stepper controllerthe sampling rate is 500 Hzthe voltage on the motor's output is controlled using PWM technique.the switching frequency of the PWM is 7.8 KHz.maximum output speed of the motor shaft 40 RPM. ( the motor is geared )the torque output of the motor is unknown for me but it is definitely bigger than any stepper motor with the same size.the commands (position) are delivered to the driver via RS232 my pc's comm port.this video was taken without measuring the dynamics of the system. the proportional gain was high and the servo was unstable.this video with the slow mode for speed.the last one in the fastest possible speed.the controller is basically a PI controller ( custom integrator, it only works for a small period to correct the small portion remaining error then it's turned off because the system has an internal integrator "it's a 3rd order system type 1 " then it doesn't need a signal to be presented all the time on the motor's winding to maintain the s.state position )but I'm now working on the controller because I want it to follow precisely a polynomial function that describe the speed with respect to time e.g a2t^2 + a1t + a .just tell me what do you think of it.and I'm waiting for any suggestions from you.

author: ahes
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2012, 09:37:27 pm
content: here's the circuit boardand the control programI was waiting to draw the control block diagram but I don't have a software for that now.Try it, it's really much cheaper than a commercial hobby servo like thatthe board and the schematic are eagle cad files

author: ahes
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2012, 09:41:48 pm
content: oh, one more thing try to use a thin motor that indicates a small inertia for higher accelerationand the maximum current rating for this circuit is 2 Ampsthe pot is 5Kdon't use the crystal with the ATmega I'm using the internal oscillator, adjust the fuse bits settings on 8 MHz clock rate.
HOME MAKE HAKKO STATION, SOLDERING STATION NEW PROJECT 2018 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Long Technical
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 26, 2018, 01:45:22 pm
content: Hi Friends,i am a newcomer. I try to make Make Hakko Station. At my project i use IC LM324 for controler At this video i show you how to i make it. You can see the result on my video. The circuit run very well. The total cost of the project is around $10 - $15.Look at my video at youtube.com i show you step by step how to make thishttps://youtu.be/b7q01ShMMekyou can download PCB and Schematic below.https://bit.ly/2I2lvvVhttps://bit.ly/2JoY27thttps://bit.ly/2HPfcOnThis image below i make PCB by myselft. You can try this at home. Or order PCB fromJLCPCB.COM. With 2$ for 10PCB with high quality.I am a newcomer and this is the fist time i post on this forums. If i have any mistake please comment below i will try to fix in the next project. I want to share you all of thing i know. If you have any question for my project, please comment below i will help you.

author: fireworks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2018, 01:58:38 am
content: It's an interesting project.It seems that you're using LM324 to process the signal from the thermocouple.Unless I'm mistaken, LM324 has a big input offset relative to the thermocouple constant.That means you have to calibrate each circuit individually.Also the input offset varies with the temperature.Have you measured the variation of the soldering temperature w.r.t. the temperature of the controller circuit?
Home printable custom displays - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: con-f-use
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 08, 2014, 07:58:50 am
content: A German group proposed a method forflexible, home-printable custom touch displaysbased on elctro-luminescence. I like it. Thought I'd share.

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2014, 08:51:22 am
content: Very interesting. Not very polished, or useful for anything I can see. Can anyone think of a use case for this? (maybe my creativity is running low)

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2014, 09:04:49 am
content: My understanding is a traditional issue with EL is it's moisture sensitive so needs good sealing - not clear if they have a less sensitive material - maybe nanoencapsulaiton could solve this?

author: DanielS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2014, 11:49:21 am
content: Quote from: george graves on October 08, 2014, 08:51:22 amIt is for prototyping. If your application requires a custom-format display or touch/indicator panel and you want to have a prototype of what your final application might look like instead of going with an off-the-shelf display, you make or order some of these.When you are ready for production, then you go with the proper manufacturing and all the associated tooling costs.
Home server??? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ChrisGreece52
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2013, 09:38:27 am
content: Hello today i am getting 2 old laptops from my cousins that dont need them.I want to :1 make a good format and cleaning of both of them2 make a partition to each of their Hard drives with windows 73 setup a ubuntu network so they can both boot from the ubuntu network of just from the windows 7 partition.And a QuestionI created a ubuntu partition to my main pc and when it boots its ubuntu as default can i change that?(i mean that you have to choose windows and i would like windows to be default.)Please suggestPrograms for these tasks and ways to set this whole thing upTHANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS!!!

author: krish2487
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2013, 04:49:11 pm
content: Ubuntu forums!!!Thats the first place you need to ask or help dude.

author: firewalker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2013, 05:03:01 pm
content: You have to change the boot loader you are using accordingly. Either Grub/Grub2 or the Windows boot loader. I am sure that there are several threads over the Ubuntu Community.Alexander.

author: ChrisGreece52
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2013, 08:26:24 pm
content: Thank you so much
Homebrew antenna analyzer for 1.2 ghz - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Cubbie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2020, 05:58:45 am
content: I'm building one because I like to homebrew. It will cover 600 Mhz to 1600 Mhz assuming I ever get this voltage controlled oscillator to work. Right now there is no output. I am using a Z-comm V502ME01 which is a 600 to 1600 VCO.5 volts B+ 1-21 volts tuning and 50 output at 5 Dbm. I have worked with microstripline before so I'm pretty sure that is correct. Also I'm outputting into a Mar-3 MMIC. The one thing I do not understand is the loop filter example on the tuning voltage line. It is shown in a application note. No values are given because I'm pretty sure it is frequency dependent. I thought loop filters were used in PLLs not VCOs? Is a loop filter really needed? Thanks for any ideas.https://www.zcomm.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/AN-102.pdf

author: thinkfat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 07, 2020, 07:28:57 am
content: If you don't build a PLL, or any other kind of loop, there is no loop and hence no loop filter.