hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Reparing Tesla Wall connector gen 2  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: inquisitor
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2023, 02:31:14 pm
content: Hi guys, does anyone have possibility to check outgoing voltage on tesla wallbox power supply pcb Board? my high frequency transformer is badly demaged/burned on the primary side including demages on switsching transistor and some resistors ,it seems to have also some shorts on secondary side after apply 12V the Box starting the led light is green after rebooting showing me permanetely Red light onprobably is missing 5-6V on some parts

author: M_VdM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 20, 2023, 08:23:25 pm
content: Hi,I have aTWCgen2with the same symptom: device isdead/no function, transformerTA1has similarburn marks, however no other components seem to have been damaged.Good News: when injecting 14Vdc& 3,3VdcviaCNA7[PCB<-->LED-bar], the main PCB seems to work fine. It can "talk" to TWCmanager for example.BTW: have you seen these topics on this very EEVblog forum ?https://www.eevblog.com/forum/renewable-energy/how-to-power-raspberry-pi-from-within-tesla-wall-chargerhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/can-someone-tell-me-the-output-voltage-and-amperage-transformer

author: M_VdM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 20, 2023, 08:31:16 pm
content: On my deviceTA1, theDelta SMPS Flyback Transformer, has the following markings:DELTA MP-130IAV-TP15010 (08)DCWM 1844(06)S6Maybe, the nice peoplechezMyrra(https://myrra.com/flyback/) can help us out ?

author: Rob_ev
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 16, 2024, 10:17:47 am
content: Did you manage to repair the charger? I also have a defect gen2 and wonder if it can be repaired.

author: inquisitor
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2025, 02:07:07 pm
content: Sorry for late respons, yes i do it is repaired
Repco NS-12V16A charger repair log - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2020, 08:34:31 am
content: Arrived dead as a dodo bird !No lights, buzz or anything.Teardown time.Both end caps are retained with Torx screws into slots in the extruded Ali enclosure and caps retain both the slide on lid and limit PCB movement.PCB slides into a slot in the extrusion and is otherwise unrestrained except for the end caps and 3 clamps that fasten the 5 power silicon devices onto thermal pads to the enclosure for it to act as their heatsink.Inspection of the PCB immediately disclosed a very neatly ruptured 4.7 uF 400V cap that serves as local bulk capacitance for the primary side supply of the control circuitry SMPS. Further investigation found no further faulty componentry in the control PSU however the ~325 VDC it's supplied with from the main bridge must pass through a small inductor which had decided to change its primary function and become a fuse !So yes, this charger has 2 SMPS, one for the 12V 16A charge capability and another sourcing current from the same rectified mains supply to supply the control circuitry.The larger charging SMPS is controlled by the very popular DIP8 TL3845 Current-Mode PWM Controller and the control circuitry a DIP7 FSQ510 with an integral FET.Datasheets:https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tl3845.pdf?ts=1599464246567&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.ti.com%252Fproduct%252FTL3845https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/149/FSQ510-85947.pdfAfter a rat around through component stashes a 10 uF 400V cap was subbed for the original 4.7 uF and a leaded inductor of similar value subbed in for the one that thought it was a fuse.Power ON tests were without a load except for for the draw of the control circuitry so a dim bulb tester was employed to prevent magic smoke escaping.No pops, flashes or noise.....only lights....the right ones too !As our esteemed leader would say: winner winner, chicken dinner !Some real burn in/out tests await tomorrow on 200AH truck batteries.Some pics to finish, the offending components resting their last days on old needle nose pliers.The replaced inductor in bright green is below the heatsink of the bridge rectifier and the pliers point in the general direction of the larger cap replaced near the PCB #.Some pretty lights and a voltage on the Fluke indicating charge !

author: mnementh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2020, 02:08:02 pm
content: That battery charger is entirely too smart for the likes of me. I'm still using a 13.8V/6A bump-in-a-wire power pack off a LV lighting kit to overnight-charge any dead car or SLA battery I run across. Works a treat.mnem

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2020, 10:41:35 am
content: Repaired charger had a beating today charging numerous heavy equipment batteries ...... passed with flying colors !So back to its owner it goes.....along with a repair bill !
Replace a BGA with a PCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: hitech95
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2022, 11:56:02 am
content: A friend of mine have a HP Server Gen8 and it have a known problem, an EMMC fails due to some sort of bug in the firmware.He want to replace it but if the issue shows up again its a PITA to replce the chip each time.I was thinking if creating an dapter PCB with the same layout of a the BGA and than use a off the shelf emmc module would be possible:So far i've only seen such tecnique in smarthphones Mainboard.Do you think it would be possible?

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2022, 12:48:13 pm
content: I have seen emulator/debugger adaptors for processors like e.g. here:https://www.ironwoodelectronics.com/products/probing-and-analysis-adapters/bga-probing-systems-carrier-adapters/But as diy ...?Challenging

author: helio0centra@gmail.com
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2022, 03:31:42 am
content: as long as all the pins/balls are connected to the correct pad it would work. But probably not an easy mod.
Replace a MC3479P - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Photoman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2022, 09:12:56 pm
content: Hi All,I need to find a replacement for a MC3479P bipolar stepper driver.The 12v supply (30 year old Lambda) was acting more like an AC supply. It killed this and a few other ICs.I was able to salvage one from another board temporarily but I need to find more replacements.I bought 10 off of eBay and wouldn’t you know it...all 10 are dead as well. The motor outputs are railed to 12v.I did get my money back, though id rather have the chips.The stepper is a neat Haydon Kerk 26000 Linear Stepper Motor. Rated at 12v 140ma.Its using full steps. Phase A output isn't used. Only the CC/CCW, clock and bias set are used.I cant find anything that’s pin compatible on digikey. If anyone has suggestions for a driver that would work in its place?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2022, 10:20:53 pm
content: NTE's NTE1857 is claimed to be an equivalent.http://www.nteinc.com/specs/1800to1899/pdf/nte1857.pdfThis supplier has 1 in stock for $12:https://www.elliottelectronicsupply.com/integrated-circuit-stepper-motor-driver-vm-12v-typ-16-lead-dip.html

author: Photoman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2022, 10:43:19 pm
content: Quote from: fzabkar on April 10, 2022, 10:20:53 pmThanks! Ill pick some up, I know I have to replace a number of these.I still would like to find a modern replacement. I know it means an adapter board, which is fine considering I cant redesign these boards.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2022, 10:50:17 pm
content: Cricklewood Electronics in the UK has stock.https://www.cricklewoodelectronics.com/MC3479P.html

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2022, 11:26:36 pm
content: Unicorn Electronics has some as well:https://www.unicornelectronics.com/IC/MOTOROLA.html

author: Swainster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2022, 02:00:02 am
content: A more modern equivalent with similar but not identical functionality i.e. would probably work fine in your particular application, but not all MC3479P application, would be Texas Instruments DRV8846. It's just about small enough to fit on a PDIP sized adapter board.

author: Photoman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2022, 02:59:54 am
content: Quote from: Swainster on April 11, 2022, 02:00:02 amThanks! I was wondering if a DRV8825 could also work?I can get breakout boards for that on amazon. I can wire it in easily enough. The board has nice turned pin sockets.

author: Swainster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2022, 04:13:44 am
content: Looks like DRV8825 should work fine with a 12V motor supply, however you would need to tie the RST and SLEEP pins to logic high and possibly connect ENBL to your bias/set signal. With those little "step stick" style boards the winding current is controlled by a small on-board trimmer, so you would need to adjust this to match your motor specification (or risk burning out the motor).
Replace a micro-USB connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2025, 02:56:21 am
content: Does anyone recognise this particular micro-USB design?I watched a repair video on Youtube where they mentioned compatibility issues and having to carve away plastic to make the replacement connector fit into the space that was previously occupied by the broken one.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2025, 03:27:55 am
content: This connector does not have flared edges, so I guess this is why most typical connectors will not fit.But there are a lot of non-flared ones too. Hard to tell the exact part number on that one, but here is one that should fit:https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/USB-Connectors_Korean-Hroparts-Elec-U-F-M5DD-W-L_C145792.html?s_z=n_Connectors%7CUSB%20ConnectorsThere are a lot of similar parts, this is just the first one I found.
Replace cable for Fluke T150  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Michaelpier
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 04:01:03 pm
content: I have to 2 Fluke T150 and the cable broke on both and need to be changed.Is being 2 years now with heavy use so is not a surprise.I have seen on Fluke website that is suppose to be a special cable to withstand the pulling, bending as much as possible.It is 2core and 0.75mm diameter.Anyone knows what is the name code for these kind of cables? I need only 2 meters.

author: troby
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 26, 2023, 06:54:33 am
content: Hello, may I ask you how did you open the case? Was it glued or not? Thank you!

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2023, 11:09:22 am
content: Quote from: troby on April 26, 2023, 06:54:33 amYou are asking someone who last logged in to the forum in August 2019. Do not hold your breath waiting for a reply.
Replace Electric Keetle's Led? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Boris_yo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2021, 10:04:34 am
content: Hello. I had this appliance for several years. I noticed that led light does not always light up. Sometimes when it does, it emits weak light that blinks.I don't know how to disassemble on/off lever to change the led light. I also don't know if its a standard led that is available in electronics stores or AEG proprietary led light.

author: Syntax Error
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2021, 10:26:54 am
content: Are you sure that's a LED? Most kettles use Neon bulbs.Over time neon bulbs degrade (due to scintering of the tin electrodes) and flicker as you describe. Important, check the type first as neon bulbs are connected (via a series resistor) directly across the mains!

author: Boris_yo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2021, 04:28:15 pm
content: It's neon most likely as you said. I didn't know the right term. It reminds of those small lights on a cord that you decorate your Christmas fir tree with.

author: Syntax Error
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2021, 11:17:44 pm
content: Without close examination, a replacement part is likely a wire ended neon, possibly a 4mm size, 2mA type. Colors are usually orange and red. Anyone else know better?Maybe buy a new kettle before you attempt to repair this one? This is LIVE MAINS electricity.Not a toy.

author: a1321
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 16, 2021, 04:29:11 am
content: Like others said, most of the time, the red glowing light lamp is a neon bulb. If it is hard to source, you may scavenge it from some mains switch with indicator light.However, I have seen some glass electric kettle with ring of bright blue light at the bottom. I guess that comes from some LEDs, not neon bulb.

author: Boris_yo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 07:48:25 am
content: I won't attempt repairs with kettle being plugged into mains of course and as long as it doesn't have some kind of capacitors or something.
replace faulty DSP in a VSX-922 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: HB9EVI
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2018, 06:56:09 pm
content: I'm currently looking at a failing Pioneer VSX-922 AV-receiver due to a buggy DSP by Ti; the problem is well known under the error code 'UE22' showing up on the display.Now I need to know, if it's enough just to replace the DSP chip or is there any firmware/code stored in the broken one?The threads on the web show no clear information about that, and so far it seems nobody tried yet a reparation as DIY.Does anyone know something about that?

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2018, 10:50:34 am
content: Pretty sure the UE22 error was caused by a corrupted EEprom - that was Pioneer's explanation anyway. They had no fix except to replace the board. They were happy to sell a new UNPROGRAMMED EEprom, which of course didn't fix anything. That IC is a little surface-mount job.New boards were in the 500.00 range.My guess is they didn't sell many boards. We bought lots of them for warranty replacements for those and similar models; and were re-reimbursed on the warranty claims.By that time Pioneer's tech and engineering support was next to non-existent, so I can't vouch for their accuracy.

author: HB9EVI
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2018, 02:58:30 pm
content: Well, that does sound like I can throw the device when the day with no sound coming out of it comes.That really sucks, since changing the chip'd be really no big thing

author: tinhead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2019, 01:56:40 pm
content: afaik this might be as well DSP degrading error, es described here:https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-receivers-amps-processors/2066818-ue22-error-master-thread-pioneer-you-listening.htmlI do play actually with Pioneer SC-86, which after UE22 error after factory reset does not switch any output anymore.Currently thinking to order two new DSPs, TMS320DA808 (D808K013DPTP4), unfortunately hard to find no-fakes.EDIT: definitely, when trying to fix UE22 with "firmware upgrade" with broken DSPs the content of SPI flash will be overwritten with corrupt data. I programmed proper firmware into SPI flash (dumped from working AVR), powered up (and as DSPs are broken still not all function) did upgrade and checked what inside, and it was only damaged data, so yeah, one have to replace DSPs first.

author: ccoutts
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 10, 2022, 10:16:47 pm
content: Sorry to dredge up this 4 year old topic, but HB9EVI, did you ever get your VSX-922 working? I'm in the same boat, and need to find the eeprom file from a working VSX-922 to reflash to mine after replacing the big DSP chip.CheersChris
Replace PSU for 36V Bosch Industrial Screwdriver, wiring and plug info included - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Reprobyte
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2023, 04:34:29 am
content: I have a Bosch C-exact screwdriver which runs at 36V 1A - 36W, the PSU replacement is very very expensive, and therefore as it seems like I could buy a DC power supply for a 70th of the price, I had a look how its wired up and hope you can help clarify.The plug used is a "BD509 S.693" and the wire used is "ÖLFLEX® FD 891 - Power and control cable for versatile use in power chains"The wire has 2 black and earth, the two black are labelled "1" and "2"The plug has 4 screw connectors, 1,2,3 and ground,Which is positive and negative from the 1 and 2?I assume my plan to wire to a 36V DC supply should work fine as long as I get the polarity correct, the Bosch PSU is only delivering the power, but for an extreme price.Images attached, and thanks for any advice!
Replace RX45 jack M2 Pro MatchX Helium Miner - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: georgedone
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2022, 09:45:31 pm
content: Hi !A friend asked me to fix his Helium Miner M2 Pro.It was hanging outdoor, the bracket broke and remained upside-down hanging from the Ethernet cable. Rain water seeped into RX45 connector and through electrolysis destroyed it. It did not seem to do further damage because of the board conformal coating.My friend tried to remove old RJ 45 connector himself and in the process crushed it (the RJ45 female connector soldered on the board) to small, unrecognizable pieces.The interface was:-Fast Ethernet (100MB/sec)-Using 24V passive PoE over 2 pairs of the wires.-Was of the type through hole.-Was without link or link speed leds-Had integrated Magnetics (MagJack)-Next to the 2 tabs from shield had 9 pcb data connections distributed in 2 rows of 5 and 4 respectively (see foto).-I do not know if the tab position was normal or inverted. The current connector is to destroyed and could not find on internet a photo of M2 Pro showing that area with interface.I tried to find a similar jack on the Internet but often a lot of specs are omitted wondering if it would be possible to identify a suitable replacement in a catalog.
Replaced analog stick on xbox controller, STILL DRIFTS! :-( - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: valet
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 03, 2020, 09:09:35 am
content: So I replaced the analog joysticks on 3 old xbox controllers. However I still have the left stick drifting on all 3 controllers. How is that possible? A little frustrated after spending time soldering in new joysticks. I used part #: RKJXV1224005 from ALPS.

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2020, 10:03:20 am
content: If you mean that the joystick shows an offset to one side (e.g. you character in a game keeps moving or camera turning) even when you are not pushing it, that's much more likely to be a calibration issue (i.e. software problem) than anything to do with hardware.Joystick "drift" just means that the joystick is not centered exactly (it never is - manufacturing tolerances, etc.), so you need to calibrate those offsets out and possibly add a "dead zone" (threshold) around the middle position. I am pretty sure XBox has a controller calibration utility, try to use that.

author: VeryFastSnail
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2020, 11:09:30 pm
content: Quote from: valet on January 03, 2020, 09:09:35 amI had few of "those" controllers, replaced resistors near joysticks, those were off by a bit and then it worked.maybe try to measure resistance, but I would agree about calibration that are mentioned above.

author: PIXeL_92
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 02, 2020, 09:49:59 am
content: Quote from: VeryFastSnail on January 04, 2020, 11:09:30 pmHeya @VeryFastSnail,I found your post after trying to work out why my stick on two elite pads are off center even after replacing the sticks twice. I have checked voltages and resistance on the pad on each stick. I was wondering if you could help me out, do the values look right and the 1V on the left hand stick should be 0.9v on each side of the resistor like the right stick.Uploaded pics to Imgur -https://imgur.com/gallery/YQkIff0Thanks
Replaced battery from bluetooth handsfree is not charging - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sdancer75
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2022, 08:31:18 am
content: Hi,I replaced the old battery from a Plantronics ML20 Bluetooth handsfree and it works just fine, BUT the battery is not charging.The red led is always blinking like the drained one I replaced. Normally the red led has a steady light while charging. The company says that this condition means that there is something wrong with the battery.Does it need hardware reset somehow or compatible batteries are rejected from the firmware? Any ideas?

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2022, 10:42:04 am
content: Hi,have you actualy measured the battery voltage?,if the voltage is below a certain level the bms/ battery watchdog wont let them charge,try and manualy charge it up to say 4v with a cc/cv bench psu then refit it and see if it starts to charge,good luck.

author: abdulbadii
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2022, 05:21:59 am
content: meter the charger output, should be at least 5V and its I too >0.5 Aall done when it's charging

author: sdancer75
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2022, 07:44:42 am
content: Yes, it seems you have right. I charged externally the battery with my bench power supply to 3.9v and it started the charging as it should for a limited time.After while the red led is started the blinking again, but this time was very quick - almost every second - which I don't now what exactly means in this case.It seems that the new battery is bad 😞😞Thanks for your answer

author: sdancer75
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2022, 07:46:02 am
content: Quote from: abdulbadii on January 06, 2022, 05:21:59 amThanks,The charger works just fine, the new battery was the problem since it seems is bad
Replaced CM8833-II monitor flyback - swap the HOT too? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: philpem
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2020, 06:38:24 pm
content: I've just swapped a dead flyback on a Philips CM8833-II variant (the Acorn AKF17).In general terms, is it recommended to swap the BU2508AF horizontal output transistor (HOT) at the same time as the flyback/line output transformer (LOPT)?The monitor works fine -- I have two HOTs and two vertical drive ICs on hand (bought to meet the minimum order) so it's a no-cost option for me if there's value to doing it.I've also got a spare TDA3653B vertical drive, but my thinking is that that's far enough away from the LOPT's blast radius that it won't have seen any damage.The failure mode was the monitor failing to start up -- power LED stuck off, no HT, and a loud whining sound which changed in pitch when the power was turned off.CheersPhil.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2020, 07:00:39 pm
content: Sounds like the bad transformer had developed a shorted turn. There's no benefit in replacing the horizontal output transistor if its working properly. However you should check every capacitor associated with the horizontal output section, from the drive chip all the way to the scan coils, especially if there's any linearity distortion or other geometry defect associated with the horizontal scan. Considering the age of the beast, any electrolytics associated with either deflection circuit or the PSU (apart from the main primary side reservoir cap that's probably still fine) should probably also be replaced.

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2020, 01:34:12 pm
content: NAP North American Philips made some real nice colort.v.'s back in the day of the 'L' chassis. K, L and M werevery similar. They had a nice picture but all suffered fromflyback transformer failures as well as two resistors thatchanged value in other non-horizontal related circuits.Sometimes the H-Output transistor would fail, sometimesnot. Once the flyback was replaced and the two resistorsreplaced the sets would play without any additional failuresuntil the CRT finally faded away and that took about 15 years.They were one of my favorite t.v.'s to watch and simplicityof repair.

author: philpem
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2020, 02:11:53 pm
content: Thanks for the help, folks.I've left the original HOT in place -- surprisingly the vertical chip (another common failure on these, after the FBT/LOPT) is fine too.I recapped it last night and it's absolutely spot-on this afternoon. A little bit of focus/screen size shift as the brightness is adjusted (or when the green-screen switch is turned on), but nothing excessive.There's a service manual error on these: capacitors 2560 and 2561 were called out as 22uF 35V -- the correct parts are 220uF 35V.I also found 2268 was a 2u2 63V in my monitor (Acorn AKF17) vs the 1uF the service manual claimed it to be. I've fitted a 2u2.
Replacement 2SD2276 / 2SB1503 for Marantz PM 62 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Ringmodulator
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2024, 03:44:55 pm
content: Hi,I am looking for a replacement or substitute for the final pa stage of a Marantz PM 62.It is a complemantary darlington pair 2SD2276 / 2SB1503.There are devices on aliexpress, but I doubt, that they are what they claim to be.Any hints are highly appreciated.Kind regardsChris
Replacement alternatives for .1uf/50v electrolytic capacitor? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: CRTguy23
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 10:52:08 pm
content: I am in need of some .1uf/50v polar electrolytic capacitors and Digikey and Mouser don't have them in stock. I would like to try using a non-electrolytic capacitor as a replacement as those are in stock. What would be the best type(s) of capacitor to use as a replacement for .1uf/50v?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 11:10:26 pm
content: Film capacitor is the safest drop-in substitute. Also in most cases you can just use higher capacitance.

author: CRTguy23
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 11:18:52 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on March 07, 2025, 11:10:26 pmWhat type of film capacitor?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 11:39:16 pm
content: Quote from: CRTguy23 on March 07, 2025, 11:18:52 pmThe cheapest one that fits. It will have much better specs regardless of what you use.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 11:58:07 pm
content: What's the circuit you are using them on? Can you provide more info or photos?Some older circuits might rely on the high ESR (equivalent series resistance) that a 0.1uF electrolytic capacitor would have. It might be 10 ohms up to even a 1000ohms (I foundone datasheet claiming 2Kohm for 0.1uF!) A film capacitor or ceramic capacitor is going to be below 1 ohm of ESR, which may change circuit behaviour completely. Youmightneed to add a resistor in series with your new capacitor for the circuit to behave correctly.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 08, 2025, 12:02:10 am
content: It's quite unlikely that you stumble on circuit that relies on ESR of such capacitor. It's an unstable value anyway. But I'd use 1uF electrolytic in most cases after figuring out its purpose.

author: CRTguy23
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2025, 12:34:02 am
content: Quote from: Whales on March 07, 2025, 11:58:07 pmI am replacing the capacitors in the power supply circuit of a 27" CRT TV (Sanyo, model DS27800). There is actually only one capacitor of .1uf/50v that I'm replacing in this circuit. I have attached two pics of the schematic of the power supply circuit for this set with the capacitor I'm replacing circled in orange. It is C693.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2025, 12:46:16 am
content: I have an assortment of this style that I keep around when I need a universal replacement. They haven't let me down yet for small signal to mains applications.https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ECW-FD2W104KQ?qs=9JuRDuJWUh%2Fsj3BQo4fX7A%3D%3D

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 08, 2025, 01:15:46 am
content: Quote from: CRTguy23 on March 08, 2025, 12:34:02 amFilm capacitor will be fine there.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2025, 01:20:38 am
content: +1, the ESR of the part you circled in that circuit will not matter because it already has a 68K resistor in series with it. Thankyou for sharing the schem
Replacement capacitor in inverter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Factotum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2023, 11:09:46 am
content: Scenario : 12v "Gen Power" automotive inverter (240v, 2000W) has pooped the bed. Won't run an AC load.The main capacitor (marked CBB22 106J500V) is split with dried electrolyte everywhere. No schematic that I can find. Appears to be part of the final output and (in parallel to the output socket with other components).So it seems I'm in the market for a 10uF cap to see if this thing will live to fight another day.My Googling suggests the CCB22 are general purpose metallised polypropylene caps.Am I able to use a MKP cap such as the following as a replacement?https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/EPCOS-TDK/B32754C2106K000?qs=HXFqYaX1Q2zPCzOHO1GRmw%3D%3DWould rather a real cap from a real supplier than another junk one...

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 02, 2023, 11:15:21 am
content: You should use 630V cap or X rated 250+VAC if it's connected in parallel to the output. Original part seems to be underrated. Also film caps do not have electrolyte.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 02, 2023, 11:27:51 am
content: Although particular 500V TDK cap should be fine, it has sufficiently high AC rating.
Replacement condensator for a vintage radio repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: cedric161
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 26, 2023, 04:36:51 pm
content: Hi!During the attemp to repair i found a faulty condensator in my old graetz super 264wet radio. The problem is that i can't read the capacitance anymore. I am wondering if anyone could find the capacitance with the information still readable (see picture).The information i can read is:WIMA....025µF250V~25LHoping anyone here knows more of this old stuffThanks in advance

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2023, 04:45:03 pm
content: I googled “Wima vintage capacitor” and came up with the attached images. These may assist is guessing the missing value detail.Bearing in mind the era of the capacitor series and it’s associated likely values, I would guess that your component is 0.025uF with a breakdown voltage of 250VacYou can still see part of the leading zero then the ‘cut’ has obscured the remainder of the zero and decimal point.Best WishesFraser

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2023, 05:27:42 pm
content: Have you looked for a schematic? I've been able to find them for most of the old radios I've worked on, it's very helpful in situations like this. The location of the capacitor in the circuit can also be useful in estimating the value.
replacement crimp terminal identification  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Prime
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2023, 12:58:24 pm
content: I bought a "working" N64 off of eBay and have been having a wild time getting it to actually work.First the original supply died. An aftermarket one finally arrived today. however now I have no video.A look at the funky connector told me the pins were bent and I've had little success repairing them.So if someone recognises these, it would be most helpful since I'd like to keep the original video cable...

author: Andree Henkel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2023, 01:22:39 pm
content: can´t offer real help, but if you want to identify the crimp contacts:best is probably to first identify the plug and socket pair Manufacturer + Part Number of the two mating connectors, where into one the wires with crimp will inserted,so post pics of those connectors too

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 08, 2023, 01:27:03 pm
content: Do you mean that tiny lip that holds it in the plastic housing is bent inwards? Just bend it back and insert it into the housing.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2023, 06:07:22 pm
content: see you image with a red circle the pin who hold everything in pushed innard, normally it will block the pin in the shell / housing, take a needle and slowly push it oustide to create the lock effect, maybe 1 mm

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2023, 10:27:01 am
content: FYI, the retainer on the contact is known as a “barb”.

author: Prime
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2023, 01:18:58 pm
content: Quote from: Andree Henkel on December 08, 2023, 01:22:39 pmI haven't found any part numbers on the connector. the plastic cover says Nintendo. It was used on the SNES, N64 and GameCube. Picture of the mating connector attached along with the cable connector (from the internet as my cable is on my office desk)Quote from: coromonadalix on December 08, 2023, 06:07:22 pmI know. The issue isn't the barb. The issue is that at least one of the other crimps has been mashed inside the connector and having extracted it, it's not going to go back in.The attached crimp is still ok (barb not withstanding)Quote from: tooki on December 09, 2023, 10:27:01 amheh!
Replacement diode for inverter, help needed - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: scottc19
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 15, 2021, 07:35:49 pm
content: I need a replacement diode for the inverter I am trying to fix. I'm guessing its a beefy schottky diode, my dmm says a VF of 460mv. There's a double diamond logo and the diode has ER5026 on it. Any idea what diode I should order to replace the blown one. Also if I just replace one is my efficency going to be crap because the (some type of rectifier) well matched?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2021, 08:02:07 pm
content: ER5026, ULTRAFAST EFFICIENT GLASS PASSIVATED RECTIFIER, 260V, 5A, 35nsec, DO-201AD:http://www.cumsumi.com.cn/uploads/soft/200612/ER5026-ER5028.pdfhttps://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cumsumi.com.cn%2Fuploads%2Fsoft%2F200612%2FER5026-ER5028.pdfVf is 1.0V at 5.0A.

author: scottc19
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 15, 2021, 08:47:49 pm
content: Quote from: fzabkar on January 15, 2021, 08:02:07 pmThanks thats it!It doesn't look like I can buy those anymore, but I'm thinking this guy will do the job, different package and higher current rated. Any thoughts?https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/427/vs-8eth03s-m3-1769743.pdfThanks again!

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2021, 08:58:03 pm
content: That looks electrically OK. However, I would think that it shouldn't be too hard to find a replacement diode in the same package. :-?

author: scottc19
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 15, 2021, 09:15:22 pm
content: I had a hard time finding one that met the same Reverse recovery time Trr for the given If and Reverse voltage.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2021, 09:21:14 pm
content: I just had a look and had the same trouble. :-(

author: teapilot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 04, 2021, 08:04:50 pm
content: Im looking for the same diode at least 24. number on it is ER5026 (9.2 mm Long x 5.1 mm dia.)

author: jmpaul
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 26, 2022, 03:49:05 am
content: Did you ever find a replacement for the ER5026? I think we're all looking to fix the same Xantrex inverter or its equivalent. I found one hard shorted diode of 24.

author: inverted
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 04, 2025, 09:58:47 pm
content: Yet another person with a Xantrex inverter to fix here...same issue. So glad you've made this post.So, has anyone succeeded in making this repair? I'm about to order some didoes to try. First time trying to fix an inverter and not sure how many other problems I will encounter. All I heard was a loud pop and found the blasted apart remnants of a diode when I opened 'er up. Thanks all.
Replacement diode - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: grahamW
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 11, 2019, 01:20:44 am
content: Hi all,I'm trying to repair an 8-port POE injector with a dead short. I've tracked the problem to a single, failed diode on a daughter board. How does one decide what diode to replace it with? The manufacturer (POE Texas) is no help.Thanks

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2019, 01:32:35 am
content: Check this site:https://www.newark.com/pdfs/techarticles/littelfuse/TVS_Diodes.pdfOn page 8 somewhere middle of the page on column Marking UNI, I see (the marking as on your part) RG:SMAJ58A SMAJ58CA RG ZG 58.0 64.40 71.20 1 93.6 4.3 1 XI am not sure if this is the same as what you have though!
Replacement for 6pin  power ic "IDP=H02" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sdancer75
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2022, 05:35:12 pm
content: A Chinese power 6 pin IC smd with mark "IDP=H02". It removed from a adsl router power supply. Is there any chance to find the datasheet or even better a replacement one?Regards

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2022, 07:26:13 pm
content: R7731A, Richtek, Burst Triple Mode PWM Flyback Controller, marking IDP=W, SOT-23-6:https://www.richtek.com/assets/product_file/R7731A/R7731A-10.pdf

author: sdancer75
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2022, 04:54:04 pm
content: Quote from: fzabkar on October 07, 2022, 07:26:13 pmExcellent thanks 👍Anyway, any idea how to test it?Regards

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2022, 05:34:12 pm
content: Quote from: sdancer75 on October 08, 2022, 04:54:04 pmOne common fault in this topology is an open startup resistor between the Vcc pin and the rectified mains. Be aware that these faults leave 350VDC sitting on the bulk capacitor.

author: sdancer75
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2022, 07:15:40 pm
content: Quote from: fzabkar on October 08, 2022, 05:34:12 pmDead resistor between the Vcc and the rectified mains which are pin 5 Vdd (SOT 23-6?) and the point just after the rectifier bridge of the primary?I suppose this is an smd resistor because in the primary top surface there is only one resistor which is fine. All parts was fine except the photo-resistor of the optocoupler which I replaced but it still dead.Regards

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2022, 07:21:09 pm
content: Another common fault is that the capacitor on Vdd often dries out. I would also test for shorted outputs on the secondary side.

author: sdancer75
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2022, 07:26:54 pm
content: I tested everything from the top side ie all capacitors, mosfet, resistors etc. Everything was found ok except optocoupler. The smps stopped to work after a storm thunder ⚡⚡⚡.All smd resistors from the back side seems to be also ok, so I suspect the pwm driver...

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2022, 07:47:50 pm
content: What voltage do you measure at Vdd?

author: sdancer75
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2022, 12:29:58 pm
content: HiI didn't test the power supply connected...it is dangerous, don't you think?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2022, 04:32:05 pm
content: Quote from: sdancer75 on October 09, 2022, 12:29:58 pmYes, it's dangerous. Ideally you would use an isolation transformer.
Replacement for broken small & big knobs of TDS3000 Series Oscilloscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: vinovino
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2025, 04:18:04 am
content: I currently have a TDS3000 series oscilloscope with broken knobs, and I am having trouble finding exact replacements.I see knobs for the TDS2024 and TDS220 oscilloscopes on the market.Do the knobs for the TDS2024 and TDS220 fit the TDS3000 series oscilloscope?
Replacement for D5003NG - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Simonkarim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 11, 2021, 08:50:11 am
content: Hi, i have and control module where i believe the mosfet is broken.The markings on the mosfet is D5003NGThe only sellers i can se that sells this item is from china/aliexpress.Do anyone have a replacement for this mosfet that would fit and are more common so i can buy in europe?Im really bad at this so i would appreciate all the help i can get.https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/308/nid5003n-d-305163.pdf

author: fcb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2021, 09:23:38 am
content: VND14NV04-E ?? Might do - looks to have similar functions/features.Available Farnell.
Replacement for DS1867S-010 - digital potentiometer with EEPROM - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tony359
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2025, 09:03:51 am
content: Hi all,I'm looking for a replacement for a DS1867S-010, it's a digital potentiometer with EEPROM used in a sound device. It's a TSSOP-20 package and I can only find larger packages online.https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/DS1867.pdfIs there a drop-in replacement which I could use?Thanks!
Replacement for Fluke 845AB OPR switch? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tatel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2024, 12:02:16 pm
content: I got a F845AB on the way.OPR switch stem is broken. So I looked into the manual. Alas, that part isn't listed. Unless missing something, I just see replacement numbers for the power switch (S201) and power, range, zero and level knobs. But not a word about OPR switch/knob. All I can find is a reference (MP6) to a related lexan bushing, 0,435 ID, on the corrected 5-2 figureBefore try and drill/tap that stem, I thought I could ask about it here. Do you know what could be used as a replacement?Edit: found it on amplifier P/C assembly, figure 5-4. Manufacturer code 89536, part number 5105-194936. So it's from Fluke, let's see if it could be found somewhereEdit2:https://boydindustrialsupply.com/products/new-in-bag-fluke-switch-5105-194936€72 + 80 shipping... via DHL pirates. As if it isn't expensive enough. NO WAY! Fortunately it looks as if drilling/tapping could be feasible.

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2024, 05:05:39 am
content: You might be able to strip down the knob/shaft and 3d print a new one, all it does is cam over the contacts so has very little actual stress on it.

author: tatel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2024, 12:21:34 pm
content: I found your videos about F845AB quite interesting.It's perhaps a lesser bad that the broken switch is a quite simple one; after looking at the picture, one could think at least a couple way to fix it. Thanks for your suggestion, I'll look at it.
Replacement for KSPpz-10 5-wire capacitor? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: analogo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2022, 05:37:53 pm
content: A 5-wire capacitor in our oldie-but-goldie mixer released the magic smoke. I'm looking for a replacement, but I'm not familiar with this kind of capacitors and I haven't been able to decipher the markings very well.Which kind of capacitor is this?What I could read in the markings (see the attached image) isQuoteThe measures are ø15×42mm.Is this version of the KSPpz-10https://allegro.pl/oferta/kondensator-miflex-ksppz-10-0-1uf-5-koncowek-7919074645a good replacement?Are there other good enough replacements that are easier to get by?

author: raftronik
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2022, 08:01:17 pm
content: Hi, You can use mixer without this capacitor.This is capacitor is for filtering EMI.It is like 3 capacitors in one package.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 27, 2022, 08:13:30 pm
content: You could use two Y and one X cap instead.

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2022, 08:21:51 pm
content: It's just an EMC capacitor, these loose capacity over time anyway, and sometimes fail like yours. The mixer will work fine without that component, so just save yourself the hassle of finding a replacement. You'll have to connect the AC line wires from one side to the other, as they go straight through, cut off the 5th wire (I'd expect this one connected so some metallic components inside the mixer).
Replacement for NJM4580L and NJM4560L operational amps? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: akku46
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 05, 2025, 04:17:01 pm
content: I have a powered speaker set with broken pre-amp stage. There are 3x NJM4580L and 1x NJM4560L op-amps there. They are of the SIL package version which is not made anymore.Does anyone know a good drop-in replacement right away?I can see some of those for sale on ebay, Amazon, Aliexpress, but shipping from USA will take ages in my experience, and I have problems to trust Aliexpress when I want something genuine.The DIP/SOT packaged versions are still sold even in a local electronics shop, but I would prefer something that fits directly.I'm still not sure if I even want to repair those, since the PCBs are glued into the frame and can't really be soldered unless the glue is broken first.

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2025, 05:38:21 pm
content: NJM part numbers are typically from New Japan Radio. They used to be Japan Radio Corporation before partnering with Raytheon, and back then the part numbers would be JRCxxxx. You can swap NJM or JRC when searching for parts, so NJM4580 is equal to JRC4580. There will be other companies making second-source equivalents with the same or similar part numbers too. E.g. I have used Texas Instruments RC4580.The '4580 has similar specs to other low noise bipolar opamps like NE5532 or LM833 and others. If the bandwidth (GBW) is about the same, then you can usually substitute. Much faster opamps have higher risk of instability. If you substitute JFET input opamps, then the circuit may not be well optimized for them and you may get instability, or a lot more noise or input offset than expected.The '4560 is a lower performance (and lower cost) opamp, and you can probably substitute the better '4580. One exception would be if it is used to drive a difficult load, like in a headphone amplifier. The '4560 can drive more current, so could be more suitable there.