hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
which is the best PCB designing software for beginners? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rakesh
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 22, 2011, 05:02:43 am
content: hello everyoneAm a beginner in electronics and am trying to learn pcb designing by myself.Can u please suggest me a good pcb designing software which would be easy to learn.And also please suggest me whether the KICAD or EAGLE software is best.thankyou.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2011, 05:57:52 am
content: use diptrace. check the recent discussion in another threads. i have both kicad and eagle lying dormant in my pc, soon i will uninstall them.

author: Lance
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2011, 06:01:17 am
content: KiCad and GEDA are good open source options. Eagle and diptrace are good free ones, however they come with many limitations that restrict what you can do, unless you pay for the extra features. It really comes down to personal preference. The major ones are all pretty comparable.

author: bartek
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2011, 08:00:14 am
content: Cadsoft Eagle is not a bad one to start with since their is such a big community that uses it. Check out the tutorials and free component libraries on Sparkfun.

author: Strube09
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2011, 12:17:37 pm
content: DesignSpark isn't bad either... It is completely open for as many schematic sheets, layers and sizes you want.
Which is the most useful scope for a new guy? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jim Kwik
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 29, 2017, 10:16:06 am
content: Rigol DS1054Z?

author: Avacee
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 29, 2017, 11:02:27 am
content: Depends on your own unique individual requirements and budget.Come on ... give us some information to work with .....

author: Karlo_Moharic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2017, 11:13:09 am
content: One you can AFFORD to buy. If you have cash go for Keysight or Tektornix , else stick to second hand market (ebay and craigs list)
Which Lamp - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: PixieDust
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2020, 04:21:26 am
content: I purchased a lamp a while ago that died pretty much the next day after the warranty ran out. It was an excellent lamp in terms of functionality - one of them articulating lamps with great lighting characteristics, but the quality was obviously not there - I can't remember how much it cost but it might have been around $60AUD. I purchased replacement LEDs for it but they burned out after a few weeks of being replaced, so this lamp is pretty much as good as dead from what I gather.Question is, is there some industry standard lamp that I should be looking at that will have components available for it for years to come, well just replacement bulbs/LEDs. I really like the articulating style because you can position it precisely where you want it. I'm not sure whether I need a magnifying glass but given that most of the articulating lamps for electronics usually have them, it's probably going to come with it whether I like it or not. I don't really care about it at this stage. I just need a reliable lamp that will work for many years to come. Any suggestions? I saw some lamps for the purpose I think it was on RS Online but they cost around $500AUD, that feels a bit steep but I don't know. What is everyone's experience in this regard?

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2020, 05:47:33 am
content: What kind of lamp and what sort of LEDs does it use? Is there some reason you can't refit it with whatever components you choose? Without knowing more it sounds like whatever power supply or driver it has for the LEDs is likely defective and running them too hard.

author: PixieDust
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2020, 03:18:34 am
content: Thanks blueskull, I'll keep your suggestions in mind. I thought LED lamps should last forever which is why I bought the lamp that broke. Nope, I guess LEDs can be just as unreliable. Wonder how to tell the difference between quality ones and incandescent.James, I've attached the lamp that I have and the LEDs that it uses. They are possibly burning out quickly due to overheating. Perhaps from the factory they used thermal paste and maybe that's the next thing to try. In terms of retrofitting it, it's definitely an idea, have thought about it. At this stage not sure if it would be more trouble than it's worth.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2020, 03:54:37 am
content: LEDs can last a very long time but they certainly don't last forever. 20,000-50,000 hours is typical for properly driven power LEDs.You definitely need heatsink paste to mount that type of COB module. You also need to make sure you're driving them at the correct current, they come in all different types, drive current is typically anywhere from 300-1,000 mA.
Which lead to install switch in a low voltage DC power cable with SPST switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jj5
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 09, 2023, 06:59:55 am
content: Hi there. I'm making a power cable to connect my bench supply to my test equipment and I'm installing a simple SPST switch. Should I put the switch in the positive lead or the negative one?

author: jj5
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 09, 2023, 09:06:26 am
content: I found overherethat it's best to put the switch in the positive wire.
Which MCU has VDD on pin 15 and GND on pin 6? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: skvsn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 29, 2022, 11:31:58 am
content: Hello, I'm trying to identify a microcontroller used in my RC car transmitter. It seems to be SOIC-20 package and from what I can see VDD is connected at pin 15, GND at pin 6. I looked at a few common MCUs and could not find any that would have power supply on those pins. Any thoughts? Thanks

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2022, 11:44:41 am
content: Why do you think it's a microcontroler? It's probably an IC specifically designed for use in RF transmitter applications. I did a quick Google, but couldn't find anything with that pin out. What's the part number?

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2022, 11:49:14 am
content: Most of the RC toys have proprietary ICs, with integrated RF and usually not a common microcontroller.Why do you need to know?

author: tepalia02
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2022, 12:22:53 pm
content: I don't think it is possible to figure out the IC with this little detail.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2022, 01:01:49 pm
content: Having power pins in the middle was/is typical of logic chips (attachment 1). That arrangement was carried on to ealy PIC's and maybe some other MCU's. See PIC16F84A (attached).That is not to say your chip is a PIC16F84, but if it is a microcontroller, you should be looking at the early generation.Edit: If the circuit is working, MCLR should be pulled high to VCC.
Which MCU is better? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: igorbog
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2011, 12:07:07 am
content: I want to start a project remote control with rfm22. I need to choose a mcu:1. ATMEGA322. STM32F2Which is better? I know that the question is very unprofessional, but I need to choose a MCU with better performance (Speed, Periphery).Thanks

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2011, 12:15:14 am
content: Na, it's not unprofessional, your question is quite valid in this case.Those two micros aren't even in the same class.Keep in mind, that part numbers for a micro don't always signify it's bit size.The ATMEGA32 is an 8bit micro running up to 16MHz with 32KB of flash ramwhere as the STM32 is a 32bit ARM micro running up to 120MHz with 128->1024KB flash ram.So the STM32 will bewayfaster in general andridiculouslyfaster for any floating point math.A better comparison would be between the STM32 and an Atmel 32bit micro, like the AT32UC3.However, i've not used any of the Atmel 32bit micros so i probably shouldn't comment except to say that the AT32UC3 isn't ARM based so the STM32 is probably going to have better documents/support out there to help you code on it.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 12, 2011, 12:28:09 am
content: Performance, ROM, RAM and the number of peripherals is better on the Cortex M3, no contest. Advantages of the ATmega might be 5V operation (plenty of sensors and displays are still designed for 5V), current source/sink capability, complexity and availability in larger pin pitches (DIP/TQFP). The 32 refers to 32kB of ROM, not to 32-bits. An 8-bit MCU might be easier to start with.The AVR32 is pointless in my opinion, I wouldn't start with it if you don't have anything invested in it. The Cortex M3 is widely available from multiple manufacturers.

author: igorbog
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2011, 01:15:03 pm
content: ThanksTell me please what the difference STM32F1 and STM32F2 ??

author: joelby
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2011, 01:50:15 pm
content: With some Googling you should be able to find these two pages, which will allow you to compare the two.STM32 F1STM32 F2
Which means NO_TEST in scheme? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Kaio Macedo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2016, 04:34:04 am
content: Hello, I have a question about the meaning of the acronym NO_TEST in the scheme.

author: janekm
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 02, 2016, 05:11:09 am
content: Could mean that no test point is needed for that net, if the assumption is that the layout person should place test points for each net.I'm wondering why it's sometimes mikey, sometimes micey...

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2016, 05:14:39 am
content: Quote from: janekm on November 02, 2016, 05:11:09 amBecause the people who draw schematics for Apple are barely literate.
Which multimeter is the right one for an amateur - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Ruby02
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 19, 2010, 06:45:12 am
content: I plan to give a trial repairing to my rice cooker and need a cheap multimeter with a $ 25 paypal account.I wonder Which quality and inexpensive multimeter i should get ?http://www.sourcingmap.com/multimeter-c-1158_1324.htmlhttp://gsmserver.com/shop/equipment/measuring_equipment/multimeters_proskit/http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=+Multimeter&x=0&y=0

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2010, 10:50:29 am
content: Hello my friend , if you ever find quality at the inexpensive Multimeter's .. 25$ RangeJust give me a call .. Greece +0030 6932587567

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 19, 2010, 11:43:53 am
content: Quote from: Ruby02 on May 19, 2010, 06:45:12 amget an amprobe AM220 decent machine but no bells and whistles

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 19, 2010, 12:27:21 pm
content: At $25 and under they are all shit, but a $25 can actually be a lot less shit than a $10 one example.So just make sure you spend all of those 25 dollars.The pros kit MT-1260 has all the bells and whistles for $18 though.But I concur with Simon, the Amprobe 220 is probably the first and cheapest step up to a decent meter.Dave.
Which of these BNC PCB mount right angle connectors is "better"? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2016, 08:32:19 am
content: It seems there are two styles. I am creating a PCB for the ones I have, the metal ones with the one center terminal and four mount points, but DipTrace only has a pattern I can find for the second, the plastic kind with two terminals and four mount points. No problem, I just updated the pattern. But I wonder if there is any practical difference between these two styles? I have the metal ones that are nice and solid and personally I like them. I bet the plastic ones are cheaper.

author: Karlo_Moharic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2016, 08:34:42 am
content: Easy , metal one

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2016, 09:39:00 am
content: The metal one will provide a stronger mounting to the front panel or whatever. The plastic one provides isolation from the panel, which can be very useful if shorting the outside of the connector to the panel would cause a ground loop.
Which Of These Bulbs Are Refridgerator-Compliant? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Boris_yo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2012, 07:07:11 pm
content: I got dead E-14 10W filament bulb in my refridgerator (bearsBrating in energy conservation) located above ultraviolet bulb which is claimed to eradicate bacteria. While the latter might be special bulb, I wonder about the former. It is pygmy oval shaped filament bulb that illuminates food in refridgerator that I need replaced.I have scrolled website selling similar and found few there in different shapes and Wattages. See attached image below (only the last bulb isE-27) . I wonder whether having filament or fluorescent bulb, color temperature matters and different wattage as well? If failed lamp was 10W filament and I install 10W fluorescent day light, then it will be 4x times brighter than filament? Since my refridgerator is B rated in energy conservation, is it better to find 10W bulb?

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2012, 07:15:04 pm
content: I think all but the fluorescent one would work fine.The fluorescent one might die soon due to humidity or not work right due to low temperatures (it has transformer and transistors inside and capacitors in it) and there's also the small issue of mercury if it breaks inside (yeah, i know there's a ridiculously small amount of mercury in them, less than what's inside a few cans of tuna but still...). And they're not quite designed to be turned on and off for small periods of time.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2012, 07:39:10 pm
content: Fridge light is best as incandescent. It is on so little ( unless you leave the door open for hours at a time) that there will be no energy savings over any other lamp. CFL not a thing to use for a frequent switched lamp, it only is warranted to work for around 1000 starts at best, and will never get warm enough to light fully so will either be pink and dim or just dim, both with a short life. LED will work if it is hermetically sealed, but there are none on the market as yet in this application.You can use the15W lamp in it's place, the oven ones have thicker glass so are less likely to die from thermal shock. The 5W extra will not be noticed at all unless the switch is stuck on and the lamp burns all the time. Check that, most lamps last at least 5 years in this application, often longer than 10 years.
Which Old Fluke? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: -DOM-
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2013, 03:52:41 am
content: Hi guys firstly sorry i did a search but haven't found anything of use.I am looking at a couple of secondhand flukes and not sure which would be better suited for electronics. They are the 27 of the 77 both seem to be in ok condition.I am just trying to set up a basic home lab as for the next few years i will have access to the labs at uni.Thanks in advance Damien

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2013, 04:10:29 am
content: Hi,If you have to chose, I would chose the Fluke 27. This is an industrial strength multimeter.You will probably need more than one so try making an offer on both.These will give you basic functionality. Neither will measure capacitance.Jay_Diddy_B

author: -DOM-
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2013, 04:24:37 am
content: Thanks JayShould mention that i have a cheapy to use as my second meter although am thinking about one of these they seem to get decent reviews on the forums Uni-T UT61Ewould the 27 and this see me through?I have watched the blog and think it would.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 20, 2013, 08:54:13 am
content: The 77 does not measure low currents.I'd go for the 27, wider range, longer battery life, and more accurate than the (older) 77.Dave.

author: -DOM-
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2013, 10:13:56 am
content: Thanks guys and dave for all your help, I bought it a few moments ago.EDIT**I bought a digtech from jaycar years ago when i was bit of a noob and only used bench meter at uni. All i can say is i dont know what have been missing even though its old its so much nicer.once again thanks
Which one is better TEK 492P 21GHZ 1/2/3 or Agilent 8563EC 9k-26,5Ghz - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: MacIntoshCZ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 12:58:47 pm
content: Hello,i am choosing between 492 50k-21Ghz with option 1 2 3 or Agilent 8563EC 9k-26,5Ghz. I am begginer so help me please decide which is better to buy? Thanks a lotEDit:seller provided photo of agilent shows error 334https://d46-a.sdn.cz/d_46/c_img_QP_BE/G4QDJj.jpeg?fl=exf|crr,1.33333,2|res,1024,768,1|wrm,/watermark/sbazar.png,10,10|jpg,80,,1is that normal when nothing is connected?

author: Testtech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2023, 10:48:24 pm
content: The Agilent is a much better instrument, albeit more complicated and difficult to repair and align. There are lots of parts available at low cost for the Tek, and alignment can be accomplished rather easily. Also lots of online assistance.I would never recommend a 492, as this was the first model in the Tek 49X series, and has the most problems. The 494A/AP is the last and by far the best.The error would cause me to think twice, unless the price was quite low.
Which one will I build first, DIY SMPS or DIY Linear Power Supply? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: zm@rtn00b
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 07, 2012, 05:48:29 pm
content: Hello Everyone. This will be my first postand my first language is not englishso feel free to comment any grammar error and etc.I have recently viewed EEVblog #168 - How To Set Up An Electronics Lab video and I was inspired to set up my own electronics lab. Currently, I have the basic tools needed in electronics for beginners (cheap mains soldering iron, soldering lead, soldering hand-pump, breadboards and electronic parts from my old CRT monitors)except for Bench DC Power Supply. I was planning to build my own bench power supply as my first project. So my question is, which one will I make first: Lab Bench Power Supply from Computer ATX Power Supply or Linear Power Supply. Currently, I think I have all the parts need to build both of them.

author: Short Circuit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2012, 05:52:12 pm
content: An ATX power supply never transforms into a lab power supply. At best into an ATX PSU with banana jacks.They can be usefull for some high-power tricks though. For time being just build a nice linear psu.

author: hacklordsniper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2012, 06:06:36 pm
content: ATX can be moded to wonderful things, however mains voltage is dangerous and slight mistake could send the supply into a explosion (especially if you wind the output voltage too much and dont replace caps on the output)Go for linear, they are simple, well documented, easy to troubleshoot and repair, stable, they are made from ready available parts... list goes on...

author: zm@rtn00b
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 07, 2012, 06:32:08 pm
content: Thank guys for your suggestions, it helps a lot for a beginner such as myself. Time to draw schematics for my linear power supply. I will upload my schematics soon here.
Which Op Amp Supply Bypass Technique for Low Noise? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Shredhead
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2014, 05:51:47 pm
content: Hey guys, I was reading that there are two ways to bypass the supply pins of an op amp. Just so we're on the same page, I'm using .1uF ceramic caps. The 2 ways:1. -Use 2 caps per op amp, one goes from the positive supply pin to ground and the other from negative supply pin to ground.2. -Use 1 cap per op amp, one end goes to the positive pin, the other end to the negative pin. Not involving the ground.The application is for audio EQ (powered with +/-15V from linear regulators) so the lower the noise the better. I read that using method #1 is more of a risk because if there is any noise on your power supply, it will inject that noise into your ground. I have been using method #2 but I don't know which is better.Has anyone out there ever tested which of the two methods is better? All opinions welcomed.

author: kizzap
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 18, 2014, 06:13:55 pm
content: you could run LP filters onto the power inputsOr even ferrites if the frequency is high enough!That said, I believed preferred way to do it is to decouple each of the rails to ground.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2014, 04:01:48 am
content: Analog Devices has an old but excellent application note discussing this. The decoupling capacitors, one for each supply, go between the power pins and the ground return for the output stage of the operational amplifier which may not be the same as the signal ground. RC or low Q LC filters may be appropriate for the power supply decoupling in some cases.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 22, 2014, 10:48:34 am
content: If you use the one cap version might you be coupling some noise onto the negative rail?

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2014, 12:53:47 pm
content: Quote from: VK5RC on June 22, 2014, 10:48:34 amEven worse, the noise from the positive rail will be coupled directly into the output if the operational amplifier because one of the supplies is used as the reference for the integration stage. Notice that most operational amplifier datasheets show a lower power supply rejection for one power supply rail than the other. The ones that do not probably measured it incorrectly and at least in my experience, SPICE is useless for modeling this although a that is a macromodel problem.Linear Technology application note 41, Questions and Answers on the SPICE Macromodel Library:http://www.linear.com/docs/24958"Signals having frequency components above the amplifier closed-loop bandwidth will be transmitted from V- to the output with little or no attenuation."Analog Signal-Handling for High Speed and Accuracy - PDF Page 5:http://www.analog.com/library/analogDialogue/bestof/pdf/11_2a.pdf
Which Pressure sensor type for boost gauge - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2015, 08:47:23 am
content: I'm thinking of building a simple boost pressure gauge to measure boost pressure for a turbo.I'm going to base it around an INA126 instrumentation amp and some LM3914's to display pressure as a bar graph. I'll be running it off the vehicles supply (11.8-14V typically)typical pressure I'm looking at (according to the vehicles workshop manual) should be 1 bar maximum between 2000 & 3000rpm whilst driving (approx. 14.5psi). So I've scrounged aHoneywell SDX30A2which should work within the range.However I want to see vacuum pressure too (if any). So I require agaugesensor notabsolute, correct?

author: max_torque
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2015, 09:41:20 am
content: If the point the pressure is measured is downstream of the throttle, then yes, there will be both positive and negative (relative to atmospheric) pressure.Typically, on a trailing throttle at high rpm, minimum pressure will be around 20kPa(abs) and maximum pressure depends on how hard your turbo boosts, but most road cars will be running around 1bar boost (200kPa(abs)). High performance or diesel engines can run up to (and sometimes over!) 2bar boost (300kPa(abs)).I would suggest that you need as minimum a 2bar range sensor (either 0 to 2bar(abs), or -1 to 1 bar(g))Depending on the display you are going to use, there are plenty of pcb mounted pressure sensors that output a 0-5v signal that make interfacing to a microcontrollers ADC very easy indeed:0-5v means you only need a tiny amount of analogue input filtering to read the value, rather than messing around with op-amps etc. (for high accuracy, you could calibrate the device in software)If you mount all the electronics in the gauge itself, then you have to run a pressure taping pipe through the bulkhead to the engine, or you use a remote sensor and run the wires through. However, you'll find that suitable rated (environmental protected, vibration and temperature proof etc) remote sensors are a LOT more expensive.

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2015, 10:07:55 am
content: Thanks for that. I'm just building one out of parts I have collected, but if I pursue will go the uC route. Would definitely make calibration easyIt's nothing high powered, 200TDi in a landrover, its mostly for dianostics, see if I have a boost leak. I'll be measuring it at the manifold.

author: max_torque
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2015, 02:06:17 pm
content: Ok for a LR TDI then you are unthrottled, so will only ever have a small amount of negative pressure in the manifold (at high rpm, light throttle, where the intake system losses are not overcome by the turbo)(iirc old TDi doesn't have throttle and uses vac pump for brake booster)

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2015, 02:30:45 pm
content: yes the accelerator controls the fuel injector rather than throttle and the brake booster is supplied vacuum from a pump on the engine.
Which programmer for Xilinx XC9572XL  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: belzrebuth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2021, 03:38:09 pm
content: Hi all,I need to program a XC9572XL for a DIY device.The project is written by someone else so I have no idea what programmer this IC needs.I have some files ending in .xvf, .prj , .ucf , .v and .xise.Is there a cheap ebay programmer clone for this type of chips?I don't want to pay too much since I'm not using CPLD at all.From a quick search I see that this one could be up to the taskhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/201540354531

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2021, 03:48:54 pm
content: I use what is almost certainly a clone of a real Xilinx "Platform cable USB". I use it with a Xilinx ise 14.7 install.I got this device off ebay for about $30, maybe less.This appears to be the same unit:https://www.ebay.com/itm/391876366607?hash=item5b3da6d10f:g:lowAAOxyXzxTGNZ0You need the .jed file, impact can create the .ipf file for you. The .v file is Verilog source for the project, ise or newer Xilinx software can compile that to the .jed file.Jon

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2021, 05:01:29 pm
content: If you're braveSomeone used a Raspberry w. OpenOCDhttps://medium.com/@jim.mussared/programming-a-xc9500xl-cpld-with-a-raspberry-pi-667dd9d6b5afhttps://github.com/Guzunty/Pi/wiki/Construction-guidehttps://github.com/Guzunty/Pi/wiki/Get-your-Pi-set-upRaspberry Linux - Using xc3sproghttps://anastas.io/hardware/2020/09/29/xc9500-cpld-raspberry-pi-xc3sprog.htmlNot tested by me (Use a 3.3v Arduino - ie. bluepill or Atmel USB device) - Seems to be defunct.http://dangerousprototypes.com/blog/2012/02/01/jtagwhisperer-an-arduino-jtag-programing-library/https://github.com/sowbug/JTAGWhispererFor a bluepillhttps://github.com/wschutzer/xsvfduinoBut i have one of those "Clones" you linked to , and it works fine too./Bingo

author: belzrebuth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2021, 07:51:31 pm
content: The blue pill solution seems the best as I've got a few lying around already.I'll try it when the parts get here, if it doesn't work out for some reason I'll buy the programmer.Thanks everyone!
Which RC autopilot product is popular ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ammjy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2018, 02:09:56 pm
content: Hi ! Always thanks for your help !i'm looking for RC autopilot.but, so many company and OS is exist on internet.i already know how i can consider about computing power but,i don't have idea how i should consider about autopilot OS in RC area.Please, let me know. Please, give me your advise.

author: Audioguru
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2018, 03:29:22 pm
content: RC means Radio Control to me but it could be Rowdy Chaps. Please use words.What product do you want auto-pilot? Model airplane, helicopter or drone? Model car or boat?My model airplanes made by Horizon Hobby have AS3X with stability from turbulence in 3 directions. Most new models made by them now have SAFE which when switched on makes the airplane fly level and straight even when it is almost ready to crash, it limits the maximum allowable control and allows automatic take-off and landing. I switch on SAFE for me to watch (gawk) at a pretty young lady waking by in the park.

author: ammjy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2018, 11:12:51 am
content: Hello, Audioguru !I apologize to you. my question has not etiquette.Thanks you for first reply.i already know few autopilot products.like a Arducopter, Openpilot, Paparazzi, Pixhawk, Mikrokopter, Kkmulticopter, Multiwii, Aeroquad, Crazyflie 2.0, CrazyPony-II, Dr.R&D etc..Actually, i'm looking for platform to carry out swarm control.i already know that should consider MCU and should look open source OS. but, also want to know which one is popular to peoples.because, i want consider also "long term support".

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2018, 05:22:51 pm
content: This industry is too new to provide any meaningful information on long term support unless you go outside of the hobby sources.Swarm control is something I find hard to imagine hobby applications for, and would be very leery of providing support for the touted non-hobby applications. For both legal and ethical reasons.

author: Audioguru
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2018, 07:01:00 pm
content: Swarm control. What's that?I guess swarm control is how a flock of birds fly very close together in a swarm without crashing into each other.Yesterday I watched a video of RC airplane crashes and a few airplanes collided together because the airplanes or their pilots did poor swarm control.I never fly my RC airplanes near another RC airplane, drone or kite. I accidently flew a couple of RC airplanes high up into a tree. My son flew one on my RC airplanes into a light pole. An RC airplane flew close to me and its propeller cut my hand.My RC system does not allow more than one RC airplane to be controlled by a single transmitter but if it did then the difference between airplanes would result in very poor swarm control.
which Rotary encoder for  PWM project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cowboy303
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2012, 05:55:02 am
content: I was putting together a digikey order and wanted to get rotary encoder but don't know which one to get I Think this one will do it but I'm not surehttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=p10859-ndIn Dave's Power Supply Blog he has a Microcontroller via PWM controlling the voltage and current and that's what I wanted to do. just unlimited turns, Clockwise duty cycle goes up counterclockwise duty cycle goes down.This is my boardhttp://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/MSP-EXP430G2/296-27570-ND/2331789And that will be going though a rc filter and controlling the rest of the op-amps and stuff.Will this work or am I missing something.Thanks Again.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2012, 06:00:51 am
content: urls not working.

author: cowboy303
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2012, 06:10:23 am
content: Quote from: Psi on February 23, 2012, 06:00:51 amSorry try that

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2012, 06:34:00 am
content: nope, still not working for me.I'm not sure that you can paste search results like that, i think it has to be products.

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2012, 09:03:45 am
content: No luck here either.Regards

author: cowboy303
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2012, 01:14:43 pm
content: Sorry guys it works fine for me. Try that.

author: TerminalJack505
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2012, 01:35:42 pm
content: That should work fine. That's a garden variety quadrature encoder. Aka incremental encoder.There will be one pulse per detent (click.) Or, four phases. Some encoders (mostly optical) will output two phases or even 1 phase per detent. You probably want to avoid those since most of the code out there works with the encoders like this one.

author: AndreasF
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2012, 08:13:59 pm
content: If all you want the micro to do is monitor the rotary encoder and change a PWM signal once a change is detected, it probably doesn't matter too much how the grey code is related to the detents, as you can deal with all possibilities in software.
Which sensor to use for finding the heading (course) over ground? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: abhishekkumar1902
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2018, 10:09:47 am
content: I am working on a project where I want to find the true/magnetic heading (or better course) of the person holding that device. I am new to magnetometers and gyroscopes, just wanted to know which sensor to use to find the heading of the person on the ground. Any suggestion?I read most of the GPS chips give you heading data but I also heard that they either do not produce heading info or if they do, the data is marginally inaccurate when the device is not in motion.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2018, 11:15:19 am
content: Heading <> Course Over Ground.Consider a person on a travelator or simply side-stepping. The direction you are facing only loosely correlates to the direction you are actually moving in.This is most noticeable for relatively slow watercraft and aircraft with speed of similar magnitude to the current or windspeed, but is a significant consideration even for faster craft.The options are some sort of compass sensor - magnetic or gyrocompass, or for orientation of *LARGE* objects, differential GPS between two widely separated antennae, typically mounted to the bow and stern of a medium or large ship. Its *POSSIBLE* to construct a north seeking solid state gyro system that in combination with a 3 axis accelerometer, detects the Earth's rotation, and thus its orientation with respect to the polar axis, thus eliminating gyro heading drift, but its extremely difficult to do in a compact form factor on a moving platform.
Which side of ESD Mat? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sparksflying
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2013, 03:46:35 am
content: I managed to find a conductive ESD mat in the rubbish at work today. It is like this one:http://desco.descoindustries.com/viewproduct.aspx?pid=66045&h=1066Each side has a different resistance, which side should I use for my electronics lab desk? Once side has 1x10^6 to 1x10^9 ohms of resistance and the other 1x10^4.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 31, 2013, 03:54:54 am
content: The blue non-condutive (dissipitive) side goes up, conductive side down.You don't want to short out your boards!

author: sparksflying
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2013, 07:16:04 am
content: Thanks Dave!
Which side of this cap is negative? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2021, 03:13:45 am
content: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/427/138aml-1762174.pdfI have the one pictured below the blue one. It has a diode like marking around the right side - is that side the negative? It says "negative terminal identification".

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2021, 03:35:52 am
content: The tapered end is +ve. See page 2, fig.2, the bottom image

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2021, 03:37:10 am
content: A stripe/ring indicates the negative end.

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2021, 11:59:33 am
content: Thanks guys; I see it now!
which SMD resistor types? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: WhiteFireDragon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 10:25:15 am
content: I'm on mouser looking for SMD resistors for LEDs. There are too many categories to choose from. These are just some:Carbon filmMetal filmThick filmThin filmwirewoundWhich one should I choose? I'm assumingthick filmwould be the best choice for LEDs? Also is metric 2012 a typical size?

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 10:27:28 am
content: what is the purpose? if its just for dropping voltage for a led, pick the cheapest with a sufficient wattage,

author: komet
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 10:30:44 am
content: On mouser you can just go to the overarching category ("Resistors"), choose a value and size and then take the cheapest one. You do not have to worry about carbon or thick or thin film at all.Don't ask people about metric SMD sizes. Nobody understands them, even in Europe.

author: WhiteFireDragon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 11:06:10 am
content: Thank you for the quick responses. I'll be getting 100 of these in the link below. I hope it's not really cheap quality, because they're less than a penny each. That's about 20x cheaper than ones with the same specs but from a different company.http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=RK73H2ATTD8200Fvirtualkey66000000virtualkey660-RK73H2ATTD8200F

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 11:22:31 am
content: i love how it is cheaper to get 100 than it is to buy 9

author: daedalus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 11:30:20 am
content: 0.6p a resistor is pretty common for 100s in cut tape, so I wouldn't worry about quality. You don't need 1% accuracy parts for this, but if they are cheapest then go for it.

author: Kremmen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 11:32:38 am
content: Quote from: komet on June 19, 2013, 10:30:44 amErm... cough... yes, some do, actually. Some even think that the meter (with multipliers) is a perfectly valid measure of all lengths.Sorry for the O.T.
Which solder paste syringe for Metcal DX-250 applicator? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: andersjm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2016, 07:42:17 pm
content: Hello forum,I've been doing a few boards, and after soldering using regular solder wire and a soldering iron, a year ago I switched to solder paste and hot air gun.I've had good results, but for larger boards my hands get really tired after a while when applying solder paste from a syringe, manually.So now I've purchased a Metcal DX-250 (and a SIL-AIR 15/D compressor). I know maybe I should go with stencil instead, but that seemed messy to me. Anyway, now that I've already purchased the DX-250 I'm certainly going to use it at least once so please bear with me!The Metcal came with a syringe, that I could probably fill with solder paste and use.However, it would be very much nicer if it were possible to buy solder paste already in a syringe, and have that syringe somehow be usable with my Metcal DX-250 without needing to any messy mixing/scooping.Anyone got any ideas?I can't seem to find a specification for the syringe that was included with the Metcal. I've attached a picture.Are there industry standards for solder paste syringes? Which model is the one I got from Metcal?

author: Signal32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2016, 09:27:47 pm
content: Looks suspiciously similar tohttp://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32367711078.htmlI'm not sure if there's a standard though, perhaps someone else can confirm.I have that syringe, so you can post here the dimensions and I can check for you.Also the DigiKey listings seem to be in the same container:www.goo.gl/9WYOQp

author: andersjm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2016, 09:32:46 pm
content: The critical dimension seems to me to be the inner diameter of the syringe tube.Mine is approximately 15.7mm.

author: Signal32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2016, 09:43:16 pm
content: For mine inner diameter measured at 15.6. Outer small diameter 22.3. Outer large 34.5 mm.Sounds like it would be standard.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2016, 10:00:47 pm
content: Determine the standard size 10ml, etc and you should be good.

author: andersjm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 05:43:32 am
content: Thanks a lot for the help!It seems that there's in fact a defacto standard for 10cc syringes. Excellent!I suppose since all 10cc syringes fit, there's no need to specify a syringe type in the datasheet. Still, it would have been nice if the industry had given a name to the syringes, like "TYPE A 10cc paste syringe" or something, and had that specified both on the prepackaged syringes and the applicator stations
Which Soldering Wire Size and Type for USB cords?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dman777
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 03:27:18 am
content: Hello, I watched the eevblog tutorial 1 on soldering. I will be making USB cords and soldering the USB tips like in the picture and using 28 gauge USB wire.For the 5 core Rosin Flux Leaded Solder to apply on the usb contacts and 28 gauge wire:1) What diameter should I get?2) What Gauge?3) Should I get the 60/40, 63/37/ or the 62/26 with 2Ag silver?

author: Vovk_Z
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 11:13:23 pm
content: Do you ask about solder diameter?Solder diameter doesn't really depend on wire gauge (if we are not talking about really large wires), so you can buy something universal, for example, 1.0mm, 1,5mm, or 2 mm solder.Typical solder is 60/40 or 63/37. It fits all.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 11:22:20 pm
content: But why would you want to do that? DIY cable is not cheaper and you need a proper wire for it. Which you won't be able to get easily unless salvaging from another USB cable, you shouldn't use just anything. Also connector on picture is meant to be overmolded. You can use it as is of course but it's crappy solution.

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 12:01:39 am
content: USB, or at least, USB2, is a lot more rugged format than people believe.Some years ago, I worked at a place where they needed to extend USB2 a bit longer than the longest USB cables generally available.To this end, the EE specified a type of cable which he said had superior specs to normal USB cable, to be hand soldered to a smallish circular multi pin connector.I shuddered a bit at this, & at least, in the ones I made, tried to apply HF techniques.Others made them the same as if they were for audio or DC---very neat, but with longish "tails" between the end of the cable & the connector.The net result?Damn all difference in performance-------- both versions worked as well as "proper" USB cables!

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 12:21:59 am
content: Quote from: vk6zgo on May 07, 2020, 12:01:39 amYou did not say how long it was and what you mean by "longest USB cables generally available". Also it depends on possible interference/ transients, what device is connected on the other end, and if it's full or high speed in particular. Also particular implementation of USB in computer matters as well.QuoteTell this to people who run CNC machines from USB port.
which SPI mode is this - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2015, 07:21:44 am
content: 1. I have a slave device running on SPI which needs to communicate with MCU. In slave datasheet attached SPI diagram is given.2. I need to set MCU SPI mode.3. Which SPI mode is this. I think its SPI mode 1 because transmitter data i.e which is master have valid data on falling edge of clk.

author: Kemme
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2015, 07:55:30 am
content: CPOL=0CPHA=0

author: odessa
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2015, 12:29:38 pm
content: Thats SPI mode 0
which type potentiometer to use - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fitter108
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2011, 01:39:18 pm
content: I am modifying a pyramid power supply to make it into a varible voltage and varible current supply. I have the schematic drawings for the changes and the ohm ratings but what I need help with is what type of pot to buy. I understand that a linear type- maybe- 10 turn- wire wound or carbon. Could someone help me with this question. I am not worried about price but want very stable setpoint. Also the voltage reg is a LM732 Thanks

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2011, 04:36:59 pm
content: You mean LM723, right?What I like to do is split the pot in one single turn and one 10 turn pot, so as to get a coarse and a finesetting. Say you need a 5k pot, I'd use a 5k single turn and maybe a 500R 10 turn in series, some experimenting will be needed here.I find it a PITA to turn and turn and turn to get to my desired voltage. On the other hand a single pot iscrap if you want a very exact setting, you move it a fraction of a mm and the voltage is in a completlydifferent range.DavidEDIT: Oh, and yes, linear is what you want.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 17, 2011, 05:57:37 pm
content: Quote from: david77 on January 17, 2011, 04:36:59 pmAgreed, although the fine adjustment can also be single turn, most commercial equipment works that way. It's a trade-off between speed and resolution (and stability, single turn pots tend to be at staying put after you set them according to Bob Pease).

author: fitter108
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2011, 01:07:50 am
content: Yes that is a lm723. The R value is 2.5k for both current and volts and do you have a preferance between carbon - wirewound - ceramic. Also do i wire the twin pots in parallel?

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2011, 11:33:56 am
content: I don't think it matters too much what type of pot you use. A simple carbon type will besufficient I'd say, but a better quality conductive plastic or ceramic type is always preferrable.At work we stock these very simple pots, so I usually use them:http://www.omeg.com/pc2bubr2.htmThey are alright for most things but high quality audio use.If you use a 10 turn pot they are usually of higher quality anyway.Not in parallel - in series!David

author: fitter108
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2011, 01:48:36 pm
content: Thanks so much david77 I think i have figured out the series pots. I should be good to go