Flir E40 MKii keypad fixing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: RRtheone
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2025, 02:55:03 am
content: My E40 MKii has buttons issues and I need to tear it down to have check.I has alrady looked at the E4 teardown video, and found some images for E40 MK1 here:https://imgur.com/a/flir-tn8aFBut E40MKII has a different design from E40MK1.I've upgraded the resolution to 320 and tried some other firmwares.

author: RRtheone
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2025, 09:01:10 am
content: I manage to tear it down, and get the button circuit. I check it and it looks intact and no breaks. But the left and right buttons are still not working (I bought this unit with button issues). Are there any other pieces should I check? The center, back and up buttons are working.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2025, 12:34:31 pm
content: That is different to what I had expected as the Mk1 has tactile buttons on the main PCB.If you count the number of contacts at the end of the FPC cable you will see that there are 10. There are 9 buttons so this suggests to me a very simple button matrix design with a common line connected to all buttons and each button has its own dedicated connection to the FPC ribbon contacts. If you use a multimeter in continuity mode you should be able to test each buttons operation by connecting across the “common rail” FPC contact and each remaining FPC contact in-turn whilst pressing the buttons. At the end of the test sequence you should have proven good operation of each and every button contact set, or discovered a failure in connectivity to the buttons that are not functioning as expected in the camera. If a break in the connectivity to a button is discovered, careful inspection of the FPC cable may reveal a fracture in the copper track.If the keyboard FPC tests OK on all buttons, the fault is located in the ZIF connector, its associated solder joints or elsewhere on the main PCB but we will cross that bridge when we come to it.Fraser

author: RRtheone
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2025, 12:50:52 pm
content: Thanks Fraser!Today I used a clip to keep the button "pressed", and a multimeter to run the text several times. It is strange that I only succeed in one button only, but actually I have 5 good buttons. I decided to tear off the film layer, ripped out the tiny metal button, and used a screwdriver to scratch a little bit in the contacts. Then I put the tiny metal button back to try. I was doing this with the unit power on, so I can instantly see if it responses. Luckily I did get the response! I tried the other dead buttons and they are working now!I'm going to order some new metal contact buttons for replacement later. Right now I just put them back temporarily.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2025, 02:05:42 pm
content: In the “good old days” of 8 bit home computers (not PC’s !) the switch type gaming joysticks used this simple type of dome switch. They also suffered from poor contacts over time. It was usually due to oxidisation of the metal contact surfaces so cleaning got them working again. I prefer the self contained tactile switches used on the Mk1 Exx series and suspect this dome switch keypad was a cost saving measure ? Or just a poor choice. That said, the switches have likely worked for many years without issue.I attach pictures from the “Targit” teardown of a MK1 unit for readers information.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2025, 02:22:00 pm
content: The old Atari joysticks used the “open contact dome” switch design and these used to become intermittent. Atari produced a repair kit that included a complete new PCB for ease of repair. Pictures of a repair kit attached for interest.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2025, 02:25:29 pm
content: To replace the plastic film over the switch domes I used to use Sellotape but that is not long lived and these days I would use an exterior grade clear tape as that is long lived. Kapton tape might work but is a little less flexible to mould over the domes.Fraser

author: RRtheone
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2025, 01:11:03 pm
content: Thanks Fraser.I bought some switch domes and replaced some of them. Everything is fine now.One more thing to do is to remove the Flir logo.I tried "rset .ui.userSettings.overlayLogo false", but I got this message in the telnet:\>rset .ui.userSettings.overlayLogo falserset: .ui.userSettings.overlayLogo: bad dataIs this command only for old firmware?