$10 Fluke 75 multimeter now left with corroded one. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 03:10:13 pm
content: Picked up a Fluke 75 for $10 and transplanted an LCD and holster from a Fluke 73 (which has battery corrosion damage I stopped from getting worse a while back).I decided to fix up the Fluke 73 as well. One problem remains however, measurements remain inconsistent as the sockets have the tin stripped off them on the inside. Using one good probe direct to the socket I can get about 1~2 ohms if I probe around a few times.Any ideas on how to restore the corroded sockets or replace them? They are the same type as the Fluke 75 (shown below), which look like press fit on the underside.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 09:49:48 pm
content: Dave L Jones himself asked this question 6 years ago. I haven't read the whole thing or followed the leads on it yet.http://www.electronics-related.com/sci.electronics.design/thread/71848/bare-pcb-mount-banana-jack.phpFluke part number via ebay, but way too expensive for my taste ($5 + outrageous s/h of $188 via UPS)http://www.ebay.ca/itm/390750203740

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2014, 10:20:59 pm
content: Maybe this is a possibility?edit: Ratings are very low though.4mm PCB Socket, 33Vac/70Vdc Voltage Rating, 2A Current Rating, Brass Contact, Tin Contact Plating,http://www.rapidonline.com/cables-connectors/economical-4mm-pcb-socket-17-0595

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 11:55:13 am
content: I've got a wreck at work somewhere..... maybe we could swap some crap?

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 09:09:34 pm
content: Sounds good I'll send you a PM.Retiredcaps, thanks for your research. I'm not sure about how the sockets are attached they might even need a specific through hole swage tool. If anyone can help with this info please advise.I thought about tinning them again as well, but unless I found someone who already has this setup it's cost prohibitive and still have the problem of removing them.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 06:10:08 am
content: I found some low resolution pictures of the Fluke 70 series (no amps) pcb on the Internet so we know what it looks like without the 4mm pcb input jacks.edit: Drat, re-read the OP #1 message and he has Fluke 73 so he already knows what the empty input jack looks like.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2014, 04:23:21 am
content: Yeah I looked now. It's looking press fit to me, the diameter at the back of the socket looks larger than the pcb hole.Has anyone replaced one of these before, advise how you did it please?

author: boffin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 29, 2014, 04:30:40 pm
content: Call me brutal, but if you're willing to part with the high current range, I would just hack off the end of the probe wires, push them in the holes, ties a knot for strain relief and solder them right into the meter. I did this with my old toolbox cheapie meter which had crap connectors that always fell out; and it's problem solved.

author: ManateeMafia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2014, 07:18:28 pm
content: It looks like there are some 4mm sockets available for RC racing.I found thesehttp://www.rcmart.com/wire-plug-connector-connector-banana-c-1367_783.htmlIt might be possible to adapt them for your meter. Unfortunately, there is no stock here but another store may stock something similar.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2014, 05:42:23 am
content: Thanks for helping out I managed to get an original Fluke 642959 socket local and also Wagon helped with a spare PCB that can possibly have the sockets transplanted.I will try to fit this original Fluke part first. Does anyone know how or what tool is used to press fit these multimeter sockets?

author: lowimpedance
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2014, 11:00:25 pm
content: Quote from: Shock on December 30, 2014, 05:42:23 amMost likely a special tool set to form a 'rivet ' like swage on the underside of the PCB. The best bet to remove is use a file to carefully thin out the swaged area enough then use a drill bit a little bit bigger than the ID of the PCB hole to 'crack' the remaining metal of the terminal and hopefully then pull out old terminal.(Was I clear as mud!?).Without any special tools it looks like solder is going to be the best way to go for the new socket. Test the body of the socket will take solder, might need to clean off any plating with a file to allow the solder to properly wet the surface.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2015, 01:50:11 pm
content: Necro bump.If you know a tool that can swage these old sockets let me know.

author: kleblanc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 30, 2016, 01:04:44 am
content: Not to sure how they originally did it, but I would guess with an orbital riveting set uphttp://youtu.be/u9G2XEUrPxEI hope this YouTube video helps, I'm not to sure how you can go about it

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2016, 01:29:49 am
content: Excellent video based on that I searched for the bits and then found a tool.Tubular Rivet Clincher looks like what I need. Much appreciated.

author: all_repair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2016, 02:24:03 am
content: Clean the surface and electroplate the surface back? That is what I do to worn out surface, but if the physical damage is too much then the option shall be limited.