hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
1.5kW industrial CO2 laser - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wkb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2016, 10:14:22 pm
content: Fascinating stuff! Thanks for posting! This is the kind of HT and power that makes me stay away and observe from a safe distance though

author: AF6LJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 14, 2016, 10:44:15 pm
content: WoW this is very Cool thanks for posting, I didn't realize there was so much involved in getting a laser like this to work.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2016, 10:57:47 pm
content: Thanks for sharing and the explaination!

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2016, 06:21:22 am
content: That looks so much older than mid 90s.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2016, 09:48:18 am
content: Quote from: coppice on March 15, 2016, 06:21:22 amThe design is probably much older - I think the company started in 1975.Also bear in mind everything looks older tan it is due to a film of dirt and crud - and I took pics after someone had been round with a blow gun!I was amazed the HV rectifiers hadn't tracked over due to all the stuff that had accumumated on them.

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2016, 06:18:07 pm
content: If this is the laser how big is the shark?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2016, 06:26:40 pm
content: Quote from: German_EE on March 15, 2016, 06:18:07 pmLike the laser, it is a dinosaur....https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Megalodon

author: Trax
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 04:05:09 pm
content: whats the price of the unit?

author: chris_leyson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 04:31:08 pm
content: You could probably buy an RF excited CO2slab laser for what it would cost to decommission, ship and recommission that dinosaur.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 11:02:58 pm
content: I once got to work with a CO2 laser CNC in high school, although that was "only" 1.25kW. I recall it being quite a bit smaller than the one in the video - about the size of a mini fridge - although the CNC work area was pretty large at around 2Mx2M or something like that. It used oxygen to assist with cutting metal. Main use was by the auto shop class. The CAD class I was in used it as an example of how to convert a drawing into a physical part. (I still have the name plate I made for that assignment.)Nowadays, I would expect such CAD classes to use more flexible and cheaper, less exotic 3D printing.
early 80's spectrophotometer teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ChristofferB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 11:32:05 pm
content: Well not the entire system, unfortunately. The BM 7820 "Digital Processor Unit".I was lucky enough to swap this piece of equipment for some vintage CPU's last week. I had no idea what it was (neither did the seller), but it was made in my home town, so I felt obliged to bring it homeHere's the front:It's a digital control unit for a spectrophotometer, an old Zeiss analog one, where this small danish company, Brock & Michelsen, made a modernized digital interface box for it. (they got bought by Zeiss, btw).A spectrophotometer, by the way, is used to measure UV/visible light through a liquid/gas/etc. can be used as an analytical technique in the chemistry-ish parts of the world.Here's the back:It has some analog in/out, remote in/out (think that's for controlling the light sources) The banana plug output might be for a pen plotter to record the spectrum.Here's a photo of the analog board:It holds some Analog Devices chips: AD7506 multiplexer, AD7522 10 bit DAC, and AD7255 13 bit ADC.It also has a classic intel chipset 8253 programmable timer, likely to control the sampling.Here's the processor board:Almost as textbook as can be. All Intel chips: 8085A CPU, 2114 1K ram, spare room for another 1K, a bit of 74xx logic and 6x2kbyte 2716 Eproms.The front panel PCB is pretty ordinary, didn't get a picture, sorry. Only interesting (non-logic chip) part on that is the intel 8279 display/keypad driver.I think this smells a lot like having been developed on an intel 8085 dev board, since they went for the complete family.Interestingly, the CPU card has a edge connector, but there'd never be room in the case for a connector to fit over it.. Board testing?The machine does boot, but gives an "ERROR 01" on the display, and refuses input. I'd guess it has something to do with it not having anything hooked up to it, but I don't know. CPU seems good.It needs another box same size that houses the amplifier front-end, which I don't have, and seeing how little info I can find on this, don't think I'll come across that one.. Or the spectroscope parts for that matter.. My plan is either to use it as a ordinary microcomputer system, pop some new code in it and mess around, or see if I can make a cheap-but-functioning spectroscope to use it with.I think this has the capabilities of running serial comms to a terminal. If one notices the EPROM labeled "TTY0" - that sounds pretty serial. There's room for a third board in the machine, with a loose IDC connector to fit it. Also a "interface" blank panel on the back.Unless they went completely against the trend, it's probably safe to bet that the UART on the missing (addon, I'd guess) board is also an Intel part. 8250 or 8251. Maybe a replacement board could be made, if you could figure out the addressing.Funnily enough, the EPROM lacking intact label is completely blank. 00's all the way through. Don't think that's a failure, but I dunno.What do you think? any good ideas on what to use this for?
Huawei G6600 passworded  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sony mavica
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 09:59:45 am
content: my mate dad has a business and has updated the workers mobiles phone so he has given me the old phones all 5 work but all have password when you turn them on is there any way to bypass them

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 10:22:49 am
content: Can you get to the dial screen (emergency dial or something like that?)According to the interwebz you type ##258741 and then press the call button for a hard reset.
R&S Hameg HMC8043 power supply REAR CONNECTOR - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jpb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 06:11:11 pm
content: The Hameg (or R&S) HMC8043 has had some fair to good reviews and feedback on this site which has roused my interest.But in order to connect sense inputs you need to use the rear connector which is aWago male connector (713-1428/037-000),8x2-pole, pin spacing 3.5 mm / 0.138 inor an R&S HZC40.I've looked on the Wago site where I found it but it has no prices, on Farnell, Mouser and Digikey which don't seem to have it (or at least I couldn't find it) and even R&S's site doesn't seem to list it as a separate part (they must do somewhere but a simple search didn't find it).How easy is this connector to find and how much does it cost (in the UK)? It seems strange that they make life so difficult for potential purchasers. I guess what I'd want to do is wire one up to a bank of banana sockets but this is beginning to look too much like hard work. TTi makes life simple by having standard 4mm connectors for sense or simple clip connectors.

author: Frost
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2016, 05:27:16 pm
content: Quote from: jpb on June 20, 2016, 06:11:11 pmThe WAGO connectors are very common here in germany.This is the female counterpart WAGO 713-1108You can find it at reichelt, which is distreclec, which is daetwylerwich is Premier Farnell nowhttp://www.reichelt.de/ADW/0/0/index.html?ACTION=3;ARTICLE=100881;SEARCH=WAGO%20713-1108

author: jpb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2016, 07:50:54 pm
content: Quote from: Frost on June 21, 2016, 05:27:16 pmThanks for the link. That is not too bad a price.

author: nowlan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 07:48:09 am
content: From the brochure:QuoteThen goes onto say:QuoteDid they mean complementary, as in suitable?

author: jpb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 05:24:03 pm
content: Quote from: nowlan on June 22, 2016, 07:48:09 amI presume that by "complementary" they mean the matching connector (i.e. female vs male connectors of the same type). It is a little ambiguous as it is easy to confuse whether the datasheet is describing the connector on the power supply (for which you need to buy a complementary connector to plug into it) or does it describe the type of connector you need to get to connect? I think it is probably the former but I initially assumed the latter.
Link to a decent 858D on UK Ebay - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: biffster
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2016, 11:27:52 pm
content: Hi everyone!I've gone through all of the (many) threads about the various 858D/858D+ copies that seem to be the standard cheap hot air rework unit. What I can't find is a link to a specific UK Ebay seller selling one that someone has bought and verified that the internals aren't a death trap. There are hundreds of these available so if anyone can share their experiences of a specific seller then that would be awesome.Cheers in advance

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2016, 12:18:04 am
content: That's a "me too" here as I'm planning to pick one up soon.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2016, 02:51:31 pm
content: Quick follow up. Bought one fromhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170941205406and the short version is , well made, works well.

author: lukier
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 21, 2016, 03:04:53 pm
content: Bought thishttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161784140714almost a month ago and I can confirm that this is the ATmega version (so I'll be replacing the MCU with the open source FW soon).
Is this "hybrid flashlight" that magically extends battery runtime viable? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: PeterFW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2016, 11:05:11 pm
content: Ok, so...I am about 95% sure that this is bullshit, this light lets you charge up some glow cystals (stromthium aluminate) to save "battery runtime".https://youtu.be/mx_z5oACF-s?t=50This surely can not be more energy efficient then just running the LEDs on a smaller current or duty cycle, right?Every modern white LED run at 1mA should be brighter then this stuff.I totally get the marketing idea "the button is off, but it still glows, it must safe energy". But actually you charge a capacitor with a terrible inefficent method and waste nerly all energy while dooing it.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 18, 2016, 11:43:06 pm
content: Waste of money on that glowing thingy, very energy inefficient marketing gimmick. Just regulate the brightness with reducing the current through the LEDs or PWM them. If high power LEDs used do not perform well at low current, just add a few low power LEDs. Marketing BS product it is.
Manual Vacuum Pliers any good? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MT
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2016, 12:33:11 am
content: Do this manual vacuum plier work satisfactory? Aparently dirt cheap..

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2016, 12:53:46 am
content: They don't work that well, because there is no continuous source of vacuum. Once the spring stops, the parts tend to fall off.

author: rich
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2016, 01:24:01 am
content: Mikeselectricstuff has the definitive word on these:Quoteand goes on to discuss whyhttp://youtu.be/pdGSFc7VjBE?t=159

author: MT
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2016, 03:49:21 pm
content: Yeah, right, now we know why! Great, thanks! I will buy one!

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 01:15:27 am
content: Manual vacuum plier?Well I have one and it is useful for one other thing. Say u dump out a bunch of ICs on your bench. And then you realize that they are oriented the wrong way to how your board has to be oriented to actually place and solder them.Take cheap manual vacuum plier and straighten out the needle. Then u can pick up, spin, and set down the ICs quick and easy.And or move them around. But to place parts on a pasted board, not a great tool.Around these parts, we call these things vacuum pickup tools.

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 04:27:00 am
content: It might be easy to buy one of those and mod it to a vacuum pump (i.e. fridge pump with oil filter on the output and some dessicant on the input). Or just buy a real vacuum pump.I think those manual ones are meant for desoldering surface mount with hot air, so you get a IC hot enough and then use that tool very quickly to remove it. It's not meant for placement.Obviously for large many pin IC's that have a wide area in relation to height, making their grabbing with tweezers difficult.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 05:05:51 am
content: "vacuum pliers" sounds nearly as exotic as sonic screwdrivers!
Which / favourite Hakko tips? especially for QFN de-bridging?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Chendy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 12:38:45 pm
content: Hi guys,As perother post, it seems i can/will get Hakko T18 series tips for my Aoyue station.But which tips to get? Especially for QFN de-bridging: need small enough for access, but large enough correct shape for heat transfer...gonna buy a selection so recommendations appreciated : )

author: Chendy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 12:41:58 pm
content: from googling:https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_900m.html:"This type differs from Shape BC by the addition of a hollow to its cut face, providing high solder retention capability.It is used for drag soldering and correction of bridging"

author: raz221
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 01:28:54 pm
content: If you ask me, for this particular task, none!When it comes to surface mount chips (at least for desoldering) you'd be best using a hot air rework station (or just a cheap heat gun) with enough flux around it. You could later on re-solder with solder paste and hot air (actual solder paste, which is gray/black, and not flux, which is sometimes also labelled as such) alternatively, you could apply flux and then do drag-soldering (the 900M-T-2C/900M-T-3C tips would be excellent for that purpose)Edit: You might find these videos useful btw:

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 01:37:56 pm
content: For something like this, blade type tips are usually the best.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2016, 02:17:44 am
content: If there's enough exposed pad, almost any tip will do the trick for removing visible external bridges. But I'd say a hoof or a BR would be my preference, were I to have a lot of these things to do, with exposed pad. A knife if you want to waste time trying to dissolve hidden bridges on QFN with barely any exposed pad.
Mystery PERT 26/31 boards - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: anachrocomputer
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2016, 10:09:41 pm
content: I found two mystery PCBs in the loft, one with a pair of LM399 voltage references on it. The same board also has a pair of 12-bit CMOS DAC modules, dated 1983. It looks unused. The other board has a pair of 8085 chips on it, plus SRAM and a UART (but no EPROM). The boards have gold fingers on them for use with an edge connector. The two sets of fingers are different sizes and different pitches (but they're much smaller than Multibus). Both boards have "PERT 26/31" on them, which I think is a SCADA communications standard or protocol.Does anyone know anything about them? Or about PERT 26/31?Photos of the boards are on Flickr, here:https://www.flickr.com/photos/anachrocomputer/albums/72157668277965635

author: rrinker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2016, 12:32:19 pm
content: Ah those pre-search engine companies who thought they were being cute by naming the company BASIC. All that does is make searching for any information more difficult nowadays.

author: bitslice
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2016, 10:01:28 pm
content: Pert 1900 was an ICL machine, but that pre-dated this board by a decadeICL were fond of naming things with a slash in the middle though
Xytronic LF852D Hot Air Station Tearadown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2016, 07:11:00 pm
content: I bought a couple of Xytronic units a while back. They are both customer returns and likely have TRIAC failures. They were very inexpensive so were worth the riskThis thread is a teardown of the Xytronic LF852D.As I dismantled it I was impressed with the build quality. Sure it is not Weller, JBC or PACE, but it is decent and uses plenty of quality connectors, making disassembly easy. I was also pleased to see that the earth continuity to the front and rear panels had been considered and paint removed from mating surfaces. Hard wire connections are better but at least they triedThe components used in the unit look decent as well.The hot air station destroyed its heater so I will be focusing on the TRIAC and its control line. Hopefully it is just a simple (and quite common) TRIAC failure due to poor snubbing or a voltage spike.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2016, 07:17:06 pm
content: More

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2016, 07:21:27 pm
content: More.....

author: ruffy91
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2016, 07:43:03 pm
content: Is the pump rattling in this unit?Gesendet von meinem JAZZ mit Tapatalk

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2016, 07:55:27 pm
content: No, pump is smooth and quiet as any diaphragm type can be. Rattling can be a sign that the transport lock-down screws are still fitted.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2016, 07:58:47 pm
content: My teardown of the other unit, an LF-8800 soldering & desoldering station may be found here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/xytronic-lf-6800-soldering-desoldering-station-teardown/Fraser
World's Simplest Electric Train - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Galenbo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 11:15:42 pm
content: I don't know why, but it made me laugh :-)

author: elgonzo
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 11:24:03 pm
content: Brilliant!

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 11:27:19 pm
content: I tried to build this in December and I couldn't get it to work. I just ended up with a hot, empty AA cell. It looks plausible, but I'm not sure if it is real.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 11:55:54 pm
content: Quote from: wilfred on March 04, 2015, 11:39:45 pmI'm not sure about that. A 12 V garage door opener battery (an A23 for instance) is internally a stack of button cells with a high internal resistance and low current capability (typically only milliamps). An AA alkaline cell can deliver considerably more current, in the order of amps. Since the magnetic field strength is a function of current I would expect an AA or AAA cell to work better.I did indeed use bare copper wire and I was careful to make sure there was good electrical contact (as evidenced by the hot, discharged battery).It is something I will come back to and check out again, but I was rather disappointed the first time round.

author: loneoceans
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 03:08:41 am
content: The 12V battery is however considerably lighter which might make it easier to move. I would definitely go for the 12V battery. While the AA or AAA battery can supply more current, you will find the contact resistance to still be considerable. The 12V battery can't supply much current for any reasonable amount of time, for for a short while, it can do pretty well especially if it's a new battery.Also make sure your magnets are orientated in the correct direction! If you had one flipped, it'll cancel out!

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 03:59:31 am
content: Is that a Hyperloop?

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 04:24:58 am
content: I like it!

author: FrankBuss
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 08, 2016, 06:40:12 am
content: Physics Girl did this too:Works fine with AA batteries and even with really big C batteries, but they are a bit slow. And I agree with Physics Girl, the AAAA batteries are cute
Converting Metcal 230V to 120V - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2016, 01:52:43 am
content: I thought I would post this in case anyone else is considering a conversion.Recently purchase a SSTS-PS2V-02 (230V unit) for a fair price, however I'm in North America (120V MAINS).So I opened it up and the power transformer does have dual primary windings, so it was easy to convert for 120V operation.One note there is a very fragile copper band about 2mm wide that loops around the main heatsink and to the ground plane on either side of the PCB, I inadvertently broke this copper strip when sliding the PCB out. It was easy to fix however I now know that I did not have to slide the PCB out, the transformer mounts to the base plate that can be lowered away from the unit AFTER you cut a ty-rap that holds the MAINS wiring. The ty-rap is accessible when you open the top of the unit.I now have two of these and they live up to their positive reputation. I'm putting my old conventional solder stations in the dumpster.Cheers

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2016, 02:16:08 am
content: It's a lot easier to find 120V units, and those only come with single primary transformers. However, an exact replacement is available from Digikey:http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/signal-transformer/DP-241-8-28/595-1097-ND/952967Some seem to come with 24V examples.

author: BurningTantalum
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2016, 01:01:07 pm
content: Jester- It is nice to see that someone spells 'Ty-Rap' the same way I do. I often have to argue that it was a trade name but am no longer sure.BT

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 06, 2016, 11:12:53 am
content: Quote from: BurningTantalum on June 02, 2016, 01:01:07 pm"Cable tie" is sufficient...
Quick 858D soldier iron - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Tausif36198
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 05, 2016, 01:44:03 pm
content: Sir, I have quick 858d 220 volt my machine fuse OK .I check PCB components remove n check found OK .now display is showing nothing and machine is not working..5 volt supply is taken by IC..so guide me about that it's hardware problem or programing problem.. I have no programing tool to ...so gudie me what should I do to repair my machine.
Fake  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: GEuser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2016, 02:36:16 pm
content: Q

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 04, 2016, 02:45:01 pm
content: In the past, there were a discussions on the forum about counterfeit Bussman multimeter fuses which are very expensive.

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2016, 05:38:01 pm
content: About 5 years ago, I saw another video of fake fuse testing.The high speed of this test (a different video I can't find) shows the expanse of the fireball created.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2016, 05:44:10 pm
content: You should be careful about buying parts from unauthorized distributors, not just electronic; the amount of counterfeit out there is tremendous.

author: blacksheeplogic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2016, 09:42:01 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on June 04, 2016, 02:45:01 pmI tend to see good fuses as cheap insurance for my meters, and they seldom if ever need to be replaced anyway.
Transformer inrush and fuse protection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 29, 2016, 07:58:29 pm
content: I have a variable (0-270 VAC @ 3 A) isolated/isolation transformer (skyddstransformator) which has a DC resistance of just 2.3 ohm on the primary (2.467 H @ 100 Hz). As you can imagine it trips my circuit breaker every time I plug it in due to the high inrush current, anyone know the most appropriate NTC to use here? Some specific recommendations would be appreciated.(Putting a 4 ohm NTC from my 'salvage bin' (small and wimpy, unmarked, unbranded and unspecced) in series with the live mains has fixed the inrush issue (I don't know why?). Don't feel confident drawing much current while using this.)The label on the transformer also recommends fusing both the input and output, I assume saturating it could be pretty bad? Which fuse would be the best here for avoiding damaging it? 3 A fast-acting? 2 A just to be safe? Anyone know some good in-line fuse holders for regular fuses? How fast is fast-acting and how fast would it be damaged if the secondary winding got shorted?I already have some in-line fuse holders for the ATO automotive fuses, but these are generally only 24V rated so I'm wary of using them, anyone seen one of these burn out on 230 VAC?

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2016, 03:47:16 am
content: don't do that. get a proper fuse, for safety sakefuses are complicated well engineered parts that require some thought for specifying. if you are gonna whack some random shit in there, at least try to get it half right.littlefuse has fusing guidelines for transformers.http://www.ttiinc.com/attach/2257144.html?type=support&primitive=0This will at least get you in the ballpark.To properly select a fuse, you must1) select select a mean time between failure you are happy with (lets say 10,000 on/off cycles).2) measure inrush currents, operating currents, overload currents, and use fuse manufacturer tables to select a proper fuse.The more cycles you have, the less protection it offers. The less cycles you have, the more protection it offers.. It's not so bad as it looks though, if you really do some engineering this might not hold true.Luckily, for transformers, you often don't need to do all the measuring, so long you have the transformers specs. Simply google fusing transformers and there will be plenty of informative material.As for your inrush current, since you are building your own device, i recommend a time delay relay, it is a much more robust circuit then a NTC.
DSE T2200 Soldering Station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: blacksheeplogic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2016, 11:23:17 pm
content: I was given this T2200 which appears to have had very little use. The receipt in the box shows it was purchased in 2007. These stations were long in the tooth by then as I remember owning one of these in the 90's although mine was blue and had a slightly different hand piece, it was essentially the same DSE station made by XYtronic.Was not working (possibly never did which would explain the little use). Couple of badly soldered joints next to each other, works well now, little slow to heat up but a nice station overall. Came with all of the documentation, box and accessories including tips. When just starting out, these were an excellent first soldering station, decent build quality, and were generally very reliable stations even over years of abuse.If you can find one of these they sell for about the same price as a 936 clone.Edit: Added pic from box highlighting a unique capability of this soldering station.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 31, 2016, 12:32:36 am
content: Very nice for a freebie, especially when it took so little to make it work.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2016, 07:00:55 am
content: Solders while turned off or from the top of the PCB? Awesome.

author: blacksheeplogic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2016, 08:20:37 am
content: Quote from: Shock on May 31, 2016, 07:00:55 amYep, just like a Macy's catalog

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2016, 05:43:43 pm
content: Quote from: Shock on May 31, 2016, 07:00:55 amAt least he keeps his fingers clear from the business end of the soldering iron so that is one step in the right direction (see stock image fail threads). And perhaps he's rewiring a pot or switch.
Suicide shower teardown - bigclivedotcom on You Tube - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: uwer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 30, 2016, 07:56:11 pm
content: Contender for most dangerous consumer product?https://youtu.be/cNjA0aee07k

author: botcrusher
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2016, 08:17:40 pm
content: At least it's grounded?Saw this one awhile ago. Real nasty piece of work.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2016, 08:45:04 pm
content: Old stuff.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/suicide-shower-hear-teardown/

author: uwer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 30, 2016, 08:55:29 pm
content: My fault for not using the search function. I thought the vid was new.
Pneumatic paste dispenser - dispenser air connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: FrankT
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2016, 09:33:51 pm
content: Similar to another post but different.All of the air dispensers (the cylinder with hose) use these green plastic connectors like the attached image, however the connector on my dispenser unit uses the push-fit style connector. It does work, but in my experience, the push fit connectors don't last.So I was wondering if anyone knows what kind of connector this is, and whether I can get a panel mount socket for the dispenser unit.I've googled around and only manage to find it on the non-clone dispenser units, but it hasn't helped me identify it.If I can't get the socket, then I'll look at replacing both ends with a different quick connect plug and socket.

author: blacksheeplogic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2016, 05:50:03 am
content: My Fisnar dispensers use these, they are panel mount with a 6mm (OD) air line on the back side. Fisher have connecting lines (5601357 for example) which have the male connector, but I've not come across a female barrel connector as an accessory. You may be able to find it at a hose & coupling supplier but I'ld suggest you call Fisnar and see if their service center can supply a 'replacement' female barrel connector. I have to assume these are service items as you wouldn't expect to discard an $800 dispenser because of a damaged connector.
Amscope 5Mp camera USB3.0 vs USB2.0 ==solved== - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Samogon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2016, 02:55:15 am
content: It is a shame to publish crappy images from my phone and i decided to go little more pro and buy camera.Looking to buy camera for my Amscope microscope and stumbled upon which one to buy.Options are:1. 5mp usb2.02. 3mp usb3.03. 5mp usb3.0As for usb i think faster interface talks for itself especially for video and for inspection.As for resolution, it is double sided sword. Better resolution needs more computing power.The question: is it enough to have 3Mp to make nice pictures and video?Thank youUPD: Sorry i had to search threads prior to asking long ago answered questionhereSo based on this thread and my needs i choose Amscope MU503-CKhttp://www.amscope.com/5mp-usb3-0-real-time-live-video-microscope-digital-camera-calibration-kit.html5Mbit USB3.0 this one is rated as fast camera which gives 101fps at 640x480 which i consider acceptable for soldering. And it can produce images with 2560 x 1922 resolution which i think adequate.
Voltage & Resistance standard - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: glicos
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2016, 01:57:48 am
content: Anyone have experience using these Precision references i just found on aliexpress...http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Precision-resistance-inductance-capacitance-box-LRC-reference-tank-calibration-precision-bridge-PM6306/32666113873.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.261.F4VoZhhttp://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-AD584-4-Channel-2-5v-7-5v-5v-10v-High-Precision-Voltage-Reference-Module-Free/32532530387.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.267.F4VoZhOnly problem is there are NO Calibration certificate available when shipped

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 21, 2016, 02:25:20 am
content: HiWhat are you trying to calibrate with them?It's pretty obvious they are just run of the mil parts that have been measured on a set of bench gear. They probably are fine for some things. You *might* get to 0.1%. That is if you checked them at the same frequency right after you received the device. A year later after bouncing around and some arbitrary change in temperature, who knows? Maybe 0.5%. Change the test frequency by a couple decades (say 1 KHz to 100 KHz) and all bets are off for any of it.Of course this all assumes their unknown gear is calibrated to better than 0.02% accuracy on the reading made (not full scale). That could be a great leap of faith.Next layer to the onion is that one guy might do a pretty good job with them. The next guy, selling (or even building) identical items is not quite so careful with this and that. The ones I get from the first assembler are good to 0.1%. The ones you get from the guy at the next bench are at 1%.Bob
NT5K18AB Exchange Analogue Line Card - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Coulombic_Irrigation
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 19, 2016, 04:50:38 pm
content: Here's an old line card I have lying around. I'm not much of a photographer, but thought I'd share some pics.As you can see, warranty has expired.20 (count 'em) hybrid modules.CMOS programmable I/O chips.L3100B1 overvoltage and overcurrent protection.PROTECTIONUnder the sticker we have...An 8bit micro. With a socketed eeprom alongside. Under the other sticker is an SC87C51CCA44 (another 8 bit micro.) Looks like an 11MHz crystal in the middle.
Camcorder gets blocky after 30 minutes of usage. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: R005T3r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2016, 08:43:41 am
content: Hi,I have a spy-like camcorder that gets blocky after 30 minutes of recording, at 1080p 30 fps. I've already tied lowering the resolution and the frames, but it's almost the same. What's wrong with it? Any idea on how to fix or attenuate it?The camcorder is a cheap t187 hidden camera:http://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/T187-DIY-hidden-Camera-module-full_60262563533.htmlI've also searched if there's some way to deblock/denoise the footage by software, but requires too much time and money. I've ended up that the best way is not to get blocks during the footage.Thanks.

author: ar__systems
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2016, 01:56:34 pm
content: I guess it overheats and implements a planned degradation to reduce power consumption.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2016, 03:23:17 pm
content: Another possibility is that it detects the SD card getting full and switching to lower quality, definitely finger check the temps of both the image sensor and recording unit though.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2016, 03:41:47 pm
content: I'm leaning towards it being overheating too --- I remember Dave did a teardown of a GoPro which has roughly the same recording performance, and it needed a heatsink on the main processor and relied on thermal mass and limited battery life to keep it cool enough.

author: R005T3r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2016, 03:58:04 pm
content: However, the microSD is never full since the recording time ends whenever the card is half full.The image sensor is quite hot. Also the recording unit is hot. BTW The battery is the hottest thing over there, that is placed under the recording unit...The thing is how can I troubleshoot this: The issue could be caused by: the DVR board, the battery or The image sensor that's not working at the right temperature spot...Also there's another issue: I mean, if it's the processor board to be cooled it's fine: I can open it and add a heatsink to mitigate the effects, but when it comes about the image sensor... It's a small floating chip, I have no idea how to add a heatsink there...
Chinaco switching PS specs question. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: torch
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2016, 12:10:37 am
content: I came across these switching power supplies, and couldn't resist:http://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-1-25A-DC-15W-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-12V-1A-LED-Driver-Fedex-DHL/32344241706.html.Supposed to be 12VDC, 1.25A, 15W.They seem decent enough, the output proves to be isolated from the input, they are very stable with virtually no noise, and even offer an adjustment pot to fine tune them between about 11.5 and 13 VDC.However, they ain't 15 watts, IMHO. More like 10. They can delivereither12v or 1.25A, not both.Testing one using a series of resistors as load, the voltage dropped to 11.6VDC @880mA, 10.2VDC @1.01A, 7.36VDC @1.28A. At 1.3 amps some sort of self-resetting circuit breaker-like protection kicks in, cutting the power.The above was feeding them with North American 60Hz flavoured 117VAC. My question then:Is this truly a case of misleading advertising, or is it possible that a switching PS like this would/could/might derive more power from either 220V or 50Hz mains?
Blower wiring diagram question. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: picandmix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2016, 05:31:34 pm
content: Hi,Have acquired a couple EBM blower fans and have them running in the mode shown in the left hand diagram.Basically the two coils between wires Black U and Grey V is 55R and between Blue W and Brown Z is 72RUnfortunately the paper labels are badly worn and cannot see all of the right hand diagram but it would appear that it reverses the capacitor onto the 55R coil.Just wanted to know what is the point of reversing things in this way, start up speed ?The guy we got them from thought it was to do with direction; seems there is the word Rotation or similar just above the E symbol though thought blowers of this type where just one way ?

author: FrankT
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2016, 09:51:18 pm
content: If no one replies, you check thewww.papst.comwebsite and look for a similar model. I've done that before to find info on recycled fans.

author: picandmix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2016, 11:26:26 pm
content: Quote from: FrankT on May 27, 2016, 09:51:18 pmThanks, had already searched their site but nothing covering this old model or similar, like its two wiring diagrams, and googling on that model type does not show anything either; though it was a popular model 30 years ago ... still works well ...
EA/DSE K3602 Eprom Programmer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: blacksheeplogic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2016, 03:00:45 am
content: This is a EA/DSE Eprom Programmer that appears to dates back to 1994. These were sold as a kit, I don't know it's history as it was in a box of misc parts I acquired. Had a chance today to take a very quick look at it and it appears tidy and reasonably well put together, bearing in mind that 22 years ago it's likely that who ever put this together had very basic tools.Software and schematics are still available from the original designer. It uses a parallel interface and the software is MS-DOS based which was common at the time. From the quick look I had there's nothing obviously wrong with it which isn't bad for a 22 year old low cost DSE kit.
solved - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Wolfram.Chrome
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2016, 11:33:02 pm
content: Thanks ,problem solved

author: Samogon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2016, 11:57:04 pm
content: DER EE 5000http://r.ebay.com/TbaQqT

author: AF6LJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 14, 2016, 12:28:04 am
content: My LCR meter may not be what you are looking for; as a matter of fact it is old enough to have great grand children.http://www.prc68.com/I/ZM11.shtmlAnd guess what My meter looks that good.I do share one thing in common with my ZM-11 We are close to the same age.

author: Wolfram.Chrome
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2016, 12:29:21 am
content: Quote from: AF6LJ on May 14, 2016, 12:28:04 amAWESOME ,DID YOU SELL IT ?

author: AF6LJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 14, 2016, 01:02:08 am
content: No as a matter of fact I pulled it out and put it to use last Tuesday.Found some leaky caps in an antenna matching box (Cushcraft R-7).Works great; just give it fifteen minutes to warm up.

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2016, 05:25:38 am
content: You have so much cool stuff, Sue. It's fun seeing what you'll post next.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 14, 2016, 06:02:27 am
content: Quote from: Samogon on May 13, 2016, 11:57:04 pmYep, they are cheap as chips on ebay.

author: Wolfram.Chrome
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2016, 06:06:03 am
content: Quote from: bitseeker on May 14, 2016, 05:25:38 amYes my tiny brother is very curious about everything in electronics stuff.but please,don't blame him ,because you must be adults.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2016, 05:19:26 pm
content: How cheap do you want? This $23 meter that is pretty accurate, but no ESR measurement:http://smile.amazon.com/BQLZR-Inductance-Capacitance-Digital-Display/dp/B00JC1IY1U
Portable calibrator (UK ) - MICRO CAL 1030 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2010, 04:52:13 pm
content: • 10mV, 100mV, 1V ranges• 10mA, 100mA ranges• 0.1% accuracy• 0 - 8V available• Precision 10-turn dial• Battery Powered 9V PP3• Battery level indicatorDescription:The 1030 is a compact, low cost, portable voltage and current calibrator for general purpose signal injection. It is suitable for voltage and current loop signal simulation as well as thermocouple simulation. The precision 10-turn dial provides a conventional feel to setting the output with a setting resolution of 1 part in a 1000 (0.1%)PDFhttp://www.timeelectronics.com/download/1030v1c.pdf.......Comments :An very nice device , it does all that it promises , I have only one small complain,the mode switch needs some force to move around .I had add also the soft pads at the bottom , originally comes with an soft leather black case,that I have it too , but on the bench , the extra soft pads helps it allot.But, I do not deserve to nag , got it from ebay for 1/20 of the street price (547,47 EUR ) ,an lady was cleaning the warehouse of her ex-husband ....

author: Richard W.
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2011, 06:56:24 pm
content: Is it possible to get a view of the inside?I am curious about the reference-voltage chip inside.(Don't turn it on, take it apart)

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2011, 08:06:30 pm
content: I had open it , at the time that I got it , so to replace the 9V battery clip with new.In order to look the parts on the PCB you have to totally take it apart= strip it ( all the front panel ).And no matter how enjoyable could be , I am afraid to do it , on anything that has the label of "reference" on it .

author: Richard W.
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2011, 08:37:08 pm
content: In this case it's of course better not to take it apart.I also wouldn't dare to open my Gossen Metrawatt

author: Mark Hennessy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2016, 11:51:00 am
content: Quote from: Richard W. on January 19, 2011, 06:56:24 pmI took mine aparthttp://www.markhennessy.co.uk/time_electronics_1030_microcal/It's very easy - you simply remove the knob from the rotary switch and undo the nut. Everything else stays in place.The unit is based around the LM10. There is a number of selected resistors in there, plus 2 pre-set adjustments. Based on my testing, I'd say the specifications are pretty conservative. Overall, I like it - I'm surprised at how much I've used it - far more practical day-to-day than those fixed voltage references (which are usually more precise, but for a specific use only).In addition, Time Electronics are very helpfulHope this helps,Mark
HANTEK DSO-8060: pb with PC connection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Nounours18200
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2016, 03:55:18 pm
content: Hi,I have a HANTEK DSO-8060, with a driver properly installed on W10-64 Pro.The Hantek is recognized by Windows when it is connected via USB, and a right click on the device from the Device Manager says that " the device runs correctly ".The problem comes from the Hantek PC software: when I start the Hantek PC software, I do not see the screen of my scope on my PC. The image on the PC remains empty:So I cannot capture on my PC any screen coming from my DSO : what can I do ?Thanks
Circuit Specialists CSI-Station 75D (Yihua 939D) Teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Kelbit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2016, 05:42:03 am
content: I recently graduated from university and lost access to the shop I normally work in for personal projects. I decided to set up a small soldering station at home to fill the gap.I came across a US company called Circuit Specialists that seems to rebrand Chinese soldering equipment and sell it in North America and the EU with a 1-year warranty. Since it's just for home I decided to take a chance on theirCSI-Station 75Dsoldering station, which is a rebadge of a Yihua 939D.Despite the part number, it is not a clone of the Hakko 939 (which was a strange contraption designed for manufacturing use that required a supervisor's keycard to change temperature setting). Rather, it's a Hakko 936 clone with the addition of digital control.The manufacturer claims it's a 75 watt iron. I can't confirm that, but it does heat up pretty quick - room temperature to 350 C in about 20 seconds.Teardown photos and comments:http://imgur.com/a/rYlk1For $45 USD I certainly can't complain. I'll probably pick up a real Hakko at some point (hopefully I can find a like-new 888 - I hate the interface on the new 888D) but this definitely suits my needs for now.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2016, 01:14:10 am
content: Thank you for the review. There is a MOC3041 photocoupler with built inzero cross circuit.That is good.https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/MO/MOC3041M.pdf