Deustch pin tool (need to find one) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 08:39:32 pm
content: I'm trying to find a tool to fix some Deustch cables. We seem to have a problem with the pins getting pushed inside the connector after repeated connect / disconnect. I'm looking for a tool that can be pushed inside the plug and to pull the metal contact back out. I just replaced one of these cables 2 days ago and the pins already got pushed in.I've seen some tools called pin extractors but they look like they are for the other connector.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 09:02:36 pm
content: I've been able to pull the pins out with a paper clip but would like to find some sort of official tool to use in the future, preferably one that pulls the pins out and spreads them so they stick inside the plug.

author: PuterGeek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 10:24:15 pm
content: If the problem is the terminals are not locked in place, push the wire from the back side and you should hear a click. If your photo is the actual installed connector this may be a problem if the back is moulded as it looks. If that is the case you are hosed unless you remove the moulding because the terminal removal tool is inserted from the wire side.The correct removal tool is probably 0411-336-1605 (http://www.laddinc.com/our-products/online-catalog/item/38-0411-336-1605-28.html) but 0411-310-1605 (http://www.laddinc.com/our-products/online-catalog/item/33-0411-310-1605-25.html) would probably work also.They are pretty cheap (about $2.50) but I'm not sure where you can find them at a reasonable price. They weigh virtually nothing so the shipping and minimum order are what kill the deal.They areextremelyeasy to damage so you probably want at least a couple. DO NOT turn the tool when it is inserted or it WILL break! Spraying the tool with silicone oil helps tremendously. You can find pin removal instructions athttp://www.laddinc.com/customer-resources/how-to-instructions/hd10-series.htmlGood luck!

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2013, 01:50:03 am
content: Our cable looks almost identical to that one, you can't take it apart because I think they mount it and do some kind of injection molding around it of hard rubber.What I was hoping to do was come in from the plug end and go inside the terminal and pull it forward and maybe expand outward to jam it in place.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2013, 09:28:23 am
content: In that case when they did the second moulding they did not have a barrier to prevent the moulding compound from entering the back of the shell, so it did and pushed the lock on the crimp pin out of the latching slot inside the plug housing. Basically you need to cut the cable and reterminate with a new plug.

author: PuterGeek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2013, 07:49:07 pm
content: You can try to cut it open but I wouldn't expect that to work. I would cut the molding where it connects to the connector shell if you want to give it a try.

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2013, 11:43:29 pm
content: As the others have stated, the connector is rear-extracting, so if youre having issues with pins backing out, you have to get to the back side to do anything. Even if you pull the pins forwards from the front, if they arent clicking, then its not gonna work.However, the locking tang is in the connector body, not the pin. It could be a problem with the molding compound, but it would take quite a bit of pressure to push it back, especially with the gland on the back of the connector. If they are soldering the pins on instead of crimping them, then if solder flows out of the inspection hole, it can form a nice chamfer/fillet on the back of the locking surface on the pin. When that happens, its real easy for a little bit of force to pop the pin out. You can solder it on without having this issue, but you have to have enough heat to heat the back end of the pin, get a solid (not cold) joint, but without the front of it getting hot enough for the solder to flow out of the inspection hole. Failing that, put some kapton on the hole temporarily.http://sineco.3dcartstores.com/assets/images/PDFs/CatalogsLoRes/AT%20AHD%20Series%20Catalog.pdfsee the drawing of the pin in this (labeled page 11 on the bottom, actually page 13 in the pdf) its the widest point of the pin which is the locking surface, so you can see what I mean.I used to do vehicle instrumentation, and Ive made an obscene number of mil style 1939 plugs, lol. We usedhttp://www.laddinc.com/our-products/online-catalog/item/1421-hd18-009-1352.htmlfor our backshells as the backside of the connector has a gland which seals on the wire. Not immersion proof, but at least splash proof.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 05:55:40 am
content: I've located a contact at the vendor and he's asked me to send him a few cables so they can look at them. They said that other people haven't been having this issue.Also the in-house made cables that we use use plugs that look very close to the ones you posted, but these are mainly for providing a longer end to the same device. They seem to last quite a bit longer, but we need the shorter vendor supplied cables for the portability.