hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Mustool vs Hantek scopes. Which and why. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: aries1470
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2019, 01:16:10 am
content: Hi guys,I wanted to ask, which of these two would be a better entry level ‘scope, mainly used for audio circuits, and digital too, mainly for SPI / i2c and general duties, nothing to advanced.These are the two candidates:MUSTOOL MDS2112P Ultra-thin Dual Channel Digital Storage Oscilloscope With 100MHz Bandwidth 1GS/s Sampling Rate 7 inch TFT Color Screen Automatic Waveform MeasurementHantek DSO5072P Digital Storage Oscilloscope 70MHz 2Channels 1GSa/s 7inch TFT LCDBoth have a similar price, but one is “100”MHz, while the other is “70” MHz.Not sure how the sampling is done.Thanks in advance for any insights.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2019, 01:27:26 am
content: Neither as their memory depths for a modern DSO can only be described as pitiful !To be able to capture a waveform and then examine it in detail is the great strength of a DSO so don't sell yourself short here. Get something with 1 Mpts +.

author: aries1470
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2019, 01:36:30 am
content: Thank you :-)Do you have any suggestions in that price range that these two are in?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2019, 02:56:32 am
content: Quote from: aries1470 on October 24, 2019, 01:36:30 amWell the issue you have is data protocol analysis on that budget.Cheap DSO's only have so many features which make it difficult to cover a good range of usage types.I no longer stock the very basic DSO's as their feature set is somewhat limited so I have no hesitation of recommending SDS1202X-E as a very capable 2ch entry level scope.Here's your local suppliers listing:https://www.triotest.com.au/store/siglent-oscilloscopes/1248-siglent-sds1202x-e-digital-oscilloscope-200mhz-2-channel-1gss-with-serial-decode.html

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2019, 06:08:48 pm
content: Wana good performance/price look for Rigol or Siglent, Both are the chineses ones with at least some engineering InsideSpecial attention to DS1054 and MSO5074 both are the best ones on their price range ( 350 USD and 999), I have both and I'm happy, avoid craps like Owon, and Hantek, is all 2nd class productsOf course, the tektronics and Keisyghts, are a little better specially on firmware, but never justify to be 6 to 8 times more expensive for the similar ones From Rigol or Siglent

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2019, 02:14:47 am
content: You can use a less expensive logic analyzer for doing the SPI/I2C stuff. You would only require the scope to verify the bus you built has clean enough signal with no funny business.Scope has been very useful to me on occasion, and I could probably do just fine with either of those. I've never heard of Mustool. So I'd go with the Hantek.
Mute Lm13700 voltage controlled amplifier (VCA) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: belzrebuth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2024, 02:59:25 pm
content: Hi all,I was wondering how to implement a mute circuit for a LM13700 based voltage controlled amplifier circuit like the one described herehttps://electricdruid.net/design-a-eurorack-vintage-vca-with-the-lm13700/.I will use a microcontroller or a latching circuit of some sort (flip flop latch) to generate a mute signal that will stay on so essentially an active high mute.I initially thought to use an analog multiplexer that can handle negative voltage or a (considerably more expensive) analog switch like a dg212 to enable/disable the control current signal but I'm wondering if there is a quicker/more elegant way to do this.Audio input will be about 10Vpp so it's probably easier to mess with the control current signal than the audio itself I think..
Mutual Inductance (Equivalent Circuit of Inductors in Series) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: john04
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 14, 2025, 02:36:35 pm
content: Hi guys, I am confused by this question in my practice paper. The circuits in pencil is the solution provided. Could I check if the solutions are potentially incorrect?For circuit A, the solution shows that the equivalent circuit is a pair of inductors with the dot on the same side (I agree with this). Hence overall inductance is 2L + 2M.For circuit B, I am confused. The solution says that the dots are on opposite sides with mutual inductance -M. And it shows that inductor 1 is jwL - jwM and inductor 2 is jwL + jwM.I don't agree with the answer for circuit B and i think circuit B is just the standard situation of two inductors opposing each other. Hence total inductance of inductor 2 should also be jwL-jwM. Giving a total inductance of 2L - 2M.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2025, 05:09:49 pm
content: Those Russians know a thing or two....
MX29GL512F PARALLEL NOR FLASH CHIP WRITE PROBLEM - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Simbarashe Bryne Chipembe
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2015, 08:16:25 am
content: Hi guys I am using the MX29GL512F parallel EEPROM chip for my project. See I need a parallel EEPROM chip to store data and quickly retrieve 16bit data from the EEPROM chip when the system is running. So I dont understand the data sheet completely. I mean take for instance to read the silicon ID of chip the same operation if performed a when you read a memory address 0x0200 of any sector!!! How then does the device differentiate! Ok, now comes reading what they call the status register, for example I need to tell when the program operation has been completed... Ok so I basically perform a read operation but remember the device goes back to READ mode after it finished programming.... How do I know if the system is reading the memory array or the status BIT.GUYS please help... anyone who has used this CHIP before, or anyone who knows another chip that can provide 33Mx16 bits... no passwords or funky codes something real simple

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2015, 08:24:38 am
content: So, when is your project due?

author: Simbarashe Bryne Chipembe
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2015, 09:02:26 am
content: Hi Skimask,The project is due next week (Tuesday) and I am hoping to work extra hard over the weekend, please assist me as much as you can.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2015, 09:23:29 am
content: Quote from: Simbarashe Bryne Chipembe on May 22, 2015, 08:16:25 amQuote

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2015, 12:03:36 pm
content: Quote from: Simbarashe Bryne Chipembe on May 22, 2015, 09:02:26 amThe "project" is "due" next week....really...So, you're failing school then?

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2015, 12:10:02 pm
content: Quote from: Simbarashe Bryne Chipembe on May 22, 2015, 09:02:26 am1) Read datasheet2) Repeat until you understand itIf (2) loops too long, experiment with the hardware to test your understanding of the datasheet.
My 12V GPS+Accelerometer PCB || Criticism Welcome - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 10:47:23 pm
content: Hi everyone,I made my first post probably about 2-3 weeks ago now, detailing my first attempt at creating a GPS System that can be plugged into a 12V battery of Heavy Machinery like Diggers, Telehandlers, Dumpers etc. Even though it wasn't perfect and there are 100% a lot of things wrong with my design. I decided to push through and just get it done so I could learn more about PCB layout, routing, component placement, layers and even things like PI filters, matching and impedence controlled traces ! These things I didn't even hear about while I was in college in my Electronic Design classes. So, I'm going to upload my design and I'm hoping people just have at it and tell me everything I did wrong and maybe, just maybe, something I did really well.Thanks in advance.
My 1st shot at Nixie and VFD tubes! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Terry01
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2018, 09:07:49 pm
content: I've taken the leap into Nixie and VFD tubes! I've ordered a couple of clock kits from Ukraine hoping that building them up will give me somewhere to start as I find them fascinating!Are there any heads up on any certain parts of building them the more experienced members can give me?PS. I know "try to not to get electrocuted" or "stick my tongue in the socket" and things like that before anyone states the obvious... ha ha!This will be the first time I've played with anything high voltage.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2018, 12:26:14 am
content: If you haven't worked with tubes before, remember glass is fragile. If your tubes have rigid pins, then the socket contacts *must* have room to 'float' in their shell, otherwise you risk cracking the tube envelope, and even a micro-crack will let air in and ruin the tube if it goes right through the seal. Also cracks tend to grow with thermal cycling so don't start one in the first place. Wire ended tubes tend to have leadout wires that fatigue easily due to the alloys*they are made of, so in addition to risking cracking the glass if you don't support the wire between where you are bending it and where it enters the glass, if you bend it repeatedly at or near the same spot, it *will* break. Also, its possible that the wire near the seal isn't plated or otherwise treated to make it readily solderable so even if you have a stub of wire remaining, getting a reliable connection to it may be difficult. The usual problem is that repeated handling + use in a couple of projects has fatigued the wire right where it enters the seal, then one of the wires just drops right off with the end flush with the glass seal.Planar VFDs also don't like having their leadout legs bent close to the seal. If you need to form the legs, support them next to the seal and take extreme care if you need to bend them sideways. Breadboarding with them is possible, but if one leg 'sticks' on insertion or removal, you risk an uncontrolled bend and possible cracked seal or broken leg.* As copper's coefficient of thermal expansion is too far from that of most glasses, its very difficult to get a reliable copper to glass seal so they can't simply use copper wires.
My aim is to control DY-SV17F for rc car with simple 27mhz transceiver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: david smth
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2024, 08:49:23 pm
content: My aim is to control DY-SV17F for rc car with simple 27mhz transceiverMy aim is just to evaluate, please give a short answer, this is my last question.I want to turn the sound on and off. Is it possible with a 27 mhz transceiver?
My Arduino library list - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2025, 01:41:22 pm
content: Hi folks. I couldn't find a sensible printable chart of Arduino 'prefab' commands so I made my own list. Feel free to redistribute it and let me know if you see any errors. The commands under the blue headings must be followed with (), the ones under the red headings don't need the braces. Cheers mates, the North American Great Lakes maritime season will be here soon!!

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2025, 02:07:07 pm
content: There is a list and all the docs if you open the Arduino IDE, then click on the menu "Help" -> "Reference", though in Arduino IDE 2, the Help -> Reference only works when you are online.On the former Arduino IDE 1 however, the reference help is stored on the local machine, so it will work even if you are not connected to Internet. Latest version with included offline help was Arduino 1.8.13, it will still open a web browser and show the Help->Reference as a webpage, but the content is taken from the local install. I think most (if not all) of the reference help documentation from 1.8 is still relevant for Arduino 2.x, too.The main change in Arduino 2 was rather cosmetical, the old editor was replaced with a newer one similar with VScode, and the added support for hardware debugging (possible only for certain Arduino boards capable of HW debugging). The rest remained the same as in Arduino 1.x.Arduino 1.8.13 is good to to have installed anyway, even if you prefer the newer Arduino 2.x, particularly if you want access to full documentation without Internet.
My DE10-Standard Tutorial Series - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: blueskull
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 11, 2017, 11:00:41 pm
content: I just started a video series on FPGA, specifically based on Terasic DE10-Standard board.This series will be in 5~6 videos, covering introduction, FPGA getting started, HPS getting started and Qsys getting started.Finally, a demonstration project will be provided as a downloadable zip file as well as a separate video.The final project will be a simple music player based on Linux running in HPS, the decoded audio data is dumped to a DSP code block to do interpolation and sigma delta modulation.Modulated data is then sent to FPGA to be serialized, the then serialized bit stream can then be low pass filtered to reconstruct analog signal.This series will only cover how to use the board and Quartus II, as this series will not cover anything about Verilog, DSP theory, sigma delta modulation or Linux programming other than absolute minimum that's needed to explain the workflow.This series targets:1. People with VHDL or Verilog experience, but have never used Altera tools and want to learn Altera's workflow;2. People with Altera FPGA experience, but want to learn new concepts such as SoC and Qsys.3. People with no prior experience, and just want to see what modern FPGA SoCs can do.Video 1: IntroductionVideo 2: First FPGA-only Projecthttps://youtu.be/erYag9zr0ekVideo 3: First HPS and HPS-FPGA Projecthttps://youtu.be/D-Z2vLL5zT0Video 4: Qsys Walkthroughhttps://youtu.be/XXMeiVhjaZU---------------------------------------------Video production progress:1. Intro: done (06/11/17)2. FPGA-only demo: done (06/12/17)3. HPS-only demo: retook, done (06/23/17)4. Qsys getting started: done (06/24/17)5a. Demo project introduction: planned (est. 06/25/17)5b: Demo project showcase: planned (est. 06/31/17)

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2017, 03:20:30 pm
content: Outstanding videos! Thanks for the introduction to the DE-10 Standard.
My Eevblog/Brymen fuses arrived today.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Russ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2017, 08:30:00 am
content: I feel like I am obligated to to blow one out, or at least conjur up some majic smoke.Thanks Dave

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 28, 2017, 10:04:55 am
content: Why did you buy fuses? To have on hand if you happen to blow one up?

author: Russ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2017, 10:46:18 am
content: Quote from: Dubbie on December 28, 2017, 10:04:55 amdThe 400mA 1000VDC HRC fuses are not readily available, so figured it best to have a few spares. Do you know where they are easily found? I believe that the larger, HV110 11A fuses are more commonly found locally. Perhaps a common Fluke fuse? Yes, I may screw up and blow one. Plus, my buddies “Commercial Electric” DMM requires the same 400mA fuse, so I can give her a spare or two. Platt Electric cannot even procure them. 😢. They are ASTM brand fuses. I don’t know why they are so difficult to get locate to find. Do you have any suggestions or suppliers?I am really liking this Eevblog/Brymen 235 DMM. 👍Thanks.RussThanks

author: Russ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2017, 11:33:32 am
content: Quote from: Dubbie on December 28, 2017, 10:04:55 amYes. If careful, they don’t blow often?

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 28, 2017, 11:41:12 am
content: Quote from: Russ on December 28, 2017, 11:33:32 amThe same fuse is used in the new 121GW meter, and we had a rather embarrassing development incident were we thought we had a major problem, but it turned out to be a blown fuse

author: Russ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2017, 11:43:01 am
content: Quote from: Russ on December 28, 2017, 11:33:32 amThank you. My friend blows her fuses in her Commercial Electric DMM more often. I want to keep her unit operating. I have yet to blow one in my Eevblog/ Brymen 235.ThanksThanks

author: Russ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2017, 11:49:07 am
content: Quote from: EEVblog on December 28, 2017, 11:41:12 amDaveThe same two fuses are used in the 121GW meter? Does that mean that we can always order the fuse packet from you in the future? 👍

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 28, 2017, 12:22:45 pm
content: Quote from: Russ on December 28, 2017, 11:49:07 amYes and yes.I need to order more, I'm out of stock.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2017, 01:22:58 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on December 28, 2017, 11:41:12 amThis is sooo 1900s tech... I didn't think that a modern 21st century meter still needed a closed circuit to measure something... Total fail!(we've all been there)
My esp32 based glasses arent working - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: manansh
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 16, 2025, 05:54:59 pm
content: I have made these esp32 glasses, and I am very very new to this as you can probably tell. However they aren't being detected by my mac at all. Connections seem fine to me, can u point me to some possible errorsPCB and schematics at:https://github.com/mananshAlt/Reddit_post
My first 4 layer pcb - please have a look! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2025, 10:49:26 pm
content: I'm not pcb designer, but I've spend countless hourslearningtrying to learn. This is my first 4 layer pcb!I think it's not a terrible, but I'd like to have some advice anyway, I can always learn something.This is a small Bluetooth / USB player, 80*45mm, feeds a I2S DAC and the output is buffered though an op-amp.The output stage goes to a relay, allowing to switch between internal and external sources (AKA aux-in).Few sanity checks remaining, will send it to JLCPCB in few days. ($7 for 4 layers, that's crazy!)- Top and bottom are solid ground except few polygons for caps and power input stage.- Inner layers are ground and solid power planes (5 / 3V), some pour areas are independent as they go through a filter (For amp / DAC).- I've routed most of the stuff in the power planes, routing in areas where that power rail wasn't required and avoiding cutting them too much.- Digital is the stuff at the top, analog is mid-bottom (Just four audio signals).

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2025, 03:08:54 pm
content: No slots in your power panes:https://incompliancemag.com/slots-in-gnd-planes/And try to keep all components on one side.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2025, 05:23:22 pm
content: I know but it's done in areas where the power isn't used and doesn't pass by.Power is only used at the center, except few extremely low currents here and there (100K pullup resistors) which won't distort anything (I.E. the slot in the brown plane near SH2).I could make the power plane smaller but I guess it won't cause any harm?
My First Circuit and Board in eagle. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: seanmatthew22
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 06, 2010, 09:40:46 pm
content: Hi,This is a project i've been working on for about a week now i've created this circuit to be used in a simple clock it has two button for setting the time and two led's to indicate am or pm. The time will be displayed on seven segment displays the will connect to the board through headers. I have attached my eagle schematic and board if someone could have a look to see if i made any errors that would render the circuit useless could you please let me know, i dont want to spend money to get the PCB made to have it not work.ThanksSean
My First Differential Probe Question - HP/Agilent 1141A and 1142A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: NY2KW
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2024, 09:15:13 pm
content: Just learning to play with my first differential probe, the HP 1141A and power control unit 1142A. I went thru the basics and adjusted Offset null and DC Gain reject. Tried it on some signal generator signals and looks good.Can someone explain when and how the coarse and fine Variable Offset is used?thanks in advanceJerry

author: aliarifat794
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2024, 05:37:18 am
content: The coarse and fine variable offset controls on your HP 1141A differential probe allow you to adjust the DC offset of the measured signal. This can be helpful in situations where you need to centre the waveform within the oscilloscope's display or align it with a specific reference level.If the waveform is shifted too high or too low on the oscilloscope screen and you need to bring it back to the centre or align it with a particular reference level, you will need to use the coarse variable offset control.If the waveform is nearly centred but slightly off, or if you need to align it very precisely with a reference level, you would use the fine variable offset control.

author: NY2KW
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2024, 03:27:34 am
content: Thanks, that's what I thought but the coarse and fine controls on my 1142A do not seem to have any effect. I will need to open it up and check the pots.
My first electronic project on youtube - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: stoica adrian
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2023, 01:56:55 pm
content: Hey, I'm Adrian, recently started my Youtube channel where i have added my first project. Join me as I share my learning journey through captivating projects and hands-on projects.If you want to have a look, please check my Youtube channel.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2023, 02:00:55 pm
content: Nice!

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2023, 03:36:04 pm
content: Classic NE555 circuit for starters.Long time ago I had a nice 555 experimentation board from Philips (ET101), a PCB with spring clips mounted as top side on a square plastic enclosure. And the other board I had was based on the LM386, another classic.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2023, 11:19:24 pm
content: It's a nice attempt for a first try, but I would like to see more explanation of **WHY** the circuit works the way it does. Explain the NE55 with it's functions and internal parts: Threshold and trigger inputs, flipflop, reset pin etc. And also use those names in your schematic. If you draw the schematic in your PC with a schematic design program, then it also uses those names. (Hint: I like KiCad a lot, as a Free and Open Source project you can also just download it and give it a try).

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 12:45:08 pm
content: I like to see a bit of theory, but plenty of useable set up infoe.g.http://www.ece.ualberta.ca/~terheide/ECE202-lab-trad/lab3.html

author: liaifat85
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 01:47:54 pm
content: Thanks. It is specially helpful for students who have started studying the 555.
My first experience in PCB design. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ExtensionShoe
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2020, 01:34:00 pm
content: Hey everyone I am a second year EEE student and recently I saw Dave's Nixie Tube PCB design videos, I thought the idea of PCB design is really cool and wanted to try it out myself. I have a Proteus license so I couldn't use Altium like Dave did. I made a PCB with AND, OR, NOT and XOR gates with transistors. Here is my first ever PCB. I would really appreciate it if I got some feedback on it. Thank you so much

author: S. Petrukhin
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2020, 03:11:56 pm
content: It's a good start, but it's too spacious. Try to make the layout much tighter. Check whether the width of the tracks is sufficient for the current flowing through them (usually 0.5 A at 0.254 mm width at 1oz of copper). And I also think there is no need to use 2 layers, and even more VIAs.

author: S. Petrukhin
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2020, 03:18:28 pm
content: Try the free online EasyEDAhttps://easyeda.com/editor- it is very close in functionality to KiCAD, but it allows you to use real components from the LCSC warehouse in the design, while getting ready-made footprints of components, and then order cheap PCB and components in a couple of clicks.

author: MarkR42
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2020, 03:27:45 pm
content: Hi, it's ok, it will probably work but you can move everything closer and use wider traces. It might be easier to just put all the tracks on the top side if possible, then fill the bottom with a ground plane.Of course there might be mechanical restrictions on your design- maybe you need those connectors spaced that far apart for whatever it connects.You don't get charged more for extra copper, so usually it's ok to make tracks really wide, or do filled zones where there is unused space.Also remember that you can bring a trace out from either side of a pth component, so you don't need to start on the top and use a via.

author: ExtensionShoe
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2020, 04:28:12 pm
content: Thank you so much I really want to do more of this and your advices will help me in the future.
My first high power project->need help finding informations & components - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Barny
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 09:37:23 am
content: HiMy name is Bernhard.I'm an machine fitter which works a little bit with electronics.Normally my hobby projects are in the <= 5V / <= 1A range.This will be my first high power project.I want to build a PWM - power source for DC-Motors and other things (inductive & resistive loads).Max: 42VDC 30AThe whole thing should be short circuit & overload save.Everywhere, where I search for help I get the answer: forget it or buy thing XY.I knew its the best way to buy a high power, switched lab suply but hey, I want to learn something new.Do someone of you knew some good design-guids to avoid some traps for an old young player?What is the best way to select the main-components?I knew that I will release whole smoke-clouds of magic smoke from switching transistors during the building process.But to reduce the buckets of burned transistors I need your help.For example:What is the best coice of transistor in this project?Mos-Fet, IGBT, bipolar Transistor,...?Should I use an single big transistor or a FET-Array to share the load?(I knew, bipolar transistros shouldn't be used parallel.)How should I design the load-/short circuit monitoring?Is a current-shunt with an OPV - treshhould circuit which switches of the switching transistor + a fuse enough?Should I build in an seperate transistor with an "braking resistor" to limit the voltage of switched of inductive loads?I knew I'm an "Schwachstromfutzi" so please don't hit me to hard for my stupide questions.By the way:Don't be worried. My house wont burn down from my stupideness.I have an propper grounded, steel-plated welding chamber with smoce suction & the Kids don't have access.
my first oscilloscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dmkmedia
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2016, 09:40:35 pm
content: im not sure if i need one but i see most people in my hobby circle have onei have a few questions1. what will the main usage be for?2. i have seen the ones you can buy the use a usb and your pc screen are they any good?3. if 2 = no what is good for my first basic oscilloscopesorry to seem thinck but the more i view tutorials and classes they seem pretty usefull

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2016, 09:55:49 pm
content: Quote from: dmkmedia on December 29, 2016, 09:40:35 pmOnly you will know that. Typically scopes are used to look at signals in time domainQuote from: dmkmedia on December 29, 2016, 09:40:35 pmNot as a primary scope. Or as a primary, if you use it very rarely.Quote from: dmkmedia on December 29, 2016, 09:40:35 pmRigol DS1054Z.

author: alin_im
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2016, 10:28:38 pm
content: Have a look on this topic as well is basically the same thing)https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/advice-on-first-oscilloscope/
My first semi-finished Eagle schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sci4me
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 08:16:09 pm
content: Hi guys. So I have finished a schematic... sort of.I was wondering if you guys could take a quick look and tell me problems you see. One thing I know is a problem: I need capacitors. I don't know what values, but I'm sure I'll need caps.Besides that, I have unused parts of my chips (the OR gate especially...)Also if you have any tips for making the schematic less hideous, please let me know!And if you want it, here is the .sch:https://www.dropbox.com/s/difl1rijyxb75px/ALU.sch?dl=0

author: Aodhan145
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 10:20:37 pm
content: What is the IC on the left?

author: sci4me
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 10:58:48 pm
content: Those are power connections for all of the ICs.

author: LukeW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2015, 06:05:13 am
content: Quote from: sci4me on June 17, 2015, 08:16:09 pm0.1uF, one per each IC, next to the Vcc pin.Also, if you've got, say, a quad OR chip but you're only using one gate, maybe consider using one of those SOT-25 TinyLogic single-gate chips or similar.

author: tron9000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2015, 12:26:53 pm
content: I Would label the nets coming out of your busses, cos your gonna get lost eventually and space your busses further apart than the 0.1" grid for the same reason.

author: sci4me
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2015, 01:53:02 pm
content: Quote from: LukeW on June 18, 2015, 06:05:13 amCan I solder that myself? I've never tried SMD soldering.EDIT: oh yeah, I'm sure I can do that. Thanks for the tips so far guys!EDIT2: So how's this look?When I lay those out on the PCB I just need to put the caps next to their respective chips.
My fuse box has this confusing schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Decoman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2017, 11:40:32 am
content: Here is a photo of my fuse box, cleaned up with photoshop for sake of translation and clarity. This is a fuse box that I share with my neighbor. My apartment has the fuses listed at the bottom list. This listing was apparently written some time in the year 1991.Someone apparently drew on a couple of arrows, making me confused as I try to read this, but also, I find it odd that there is an inconsistency in the pattern there.I would expect the amps for the technical to be the same comparing the two sets of lists, but it isn't.I would expect the 'reserve' to be the same between the two set of lists, but it isn't.Presumably, I could, for sake of clarity, just ignore the drawn on arrowsSo, it looks to me that at least, the Amps fuse for the lighting and sockets in my apartment would perhaps be 10A.What am I to think of all of this? This mess seems both confusing to me, and maybe even wrong, if the technical and reserve fuses are different between the two apartments, which are equally large.

author: dmills
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2017, 03:07:53 pm
content: Never trust 25 year old paper on this sort of thing, it stands a very great chance of being just plain wrong...Open her up and actually look, it is the only way to really know.If the only thing that has changed in 25 years is two breakers being swapped around you are doing better then most.Regards, Dan.

author: Decoman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2017, 04:18:19 pm
content: Btw, they recently installed a (afaik) wifi electronic power meter not too long ago.

author: woody
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2017, 04:29:54 pm
content: Probably not wifi but gprs or power line carrier.

author: jgalak
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2017, 06:41:13 pm
content: As said above, I'd not rely on this for anything. Look inside. See what the breakers/fuses actually are. Turn off one at a time and see where the lights go out in the house/apartment. Only way to be sure. And even once you know, use a non-contact voltage detector every time you work on an outlet or light fixture.
My Gaming System - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ninn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 09, 2013, 09:16:32 am
content: Hi!Do you know the MegaDrive or the NEOGeo?Both are gaming-systems, based upon the m68k-processor.I would like to do my own. No 3d-graphics, just starndard-components.But - Where to start?Is there a program that let me design such a thing, and test it out, virtually?I know this is a complicated task, and I got far too few experience for that.But I am interested in that topic and would like to learn more about it.I don't think that a breadboard is the right place to start on such a complicated topic.How would you tackle that project yourself?Learning from megadrive Schematics, and rebuilding th megadrive from scratch, removing outdated component with more advanced ones?Please help me find the right direction to do such a project.ninn

author: FrankBuss
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 09, 2013, 10:38:33 am
content: It depends how much experience you have with electronics. A MegaDrive system with a 68k CPU is not easy, if you are a beginner. Maybe start with a simpler system, like a 6502:http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=680The concepts are all the same, and you can build it on a breadboard.For prototyping you could use a FPGA development board. If you are experiences with electronics and if you want to use real chips, then just read the 68k datasheet, select a good graphics and sound chip (might be difficult these days) start your favorite schematics CAD program, like Eagle or KiCad, create the schematic and route the board.

author: FrankBuss
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 09, 2013, 10:40:24 am
content: Or you could use a 68k system which is already designed, like this one:http://www.ist-schlau.de/hardware.htmland modify it for your needs.

author: johnboxall
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 09, 2013, 11:40:11 am
content: the Uzebox project could give you some inspiration:http://belogic.com/uzebox/index.asp
My hot air 'workstation' - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ChrisLX200
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 26, 2017, 07:09:11 pm
content: Too grand a title I think :-) It seems for anything you want to do when working on a PCB you need a minimum of three hands. I have a stand-alone hot air gun which I've had for quite some time and it's a fair bit heavier than the usual gun you get with a proper workstation. Trying to hold it whilst doing other stuff is tricky - and then you need to find someplace to put it down (hot!) to complete another task. Now I've seen holders and wanted to make something similar - but with a bit more flexibility to point the thing where I want, and the ability to move it right out the way instantly when I need to.I had a DTI holder with magnetic base (similar to this:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RDGTOOLS-PRECISION-FLEXIBLE-ARM-MAGNETIC-BASE-FOR-DTI-GAUGE-DIAL-TEST-INDICATOR-/371422935691?epid=1249012998&hash=item567a883a8b:g:0uYAAOSwMmBV3sed) which was doing nothing useful so decided to adapt just the flexible arm to hold the hot air gun. Not sure if you can buy the arm without the magnetic base (perhaps as a spare part). When tested it easily held the weight of the gun when in locked position, and a quarter-turn on the locking lever allowed it to be pointed anywhere - including straight up out of the way. There is no sag and no flex, point it at your PCB and operate the lock lever and it stays exactly in position.I have it attached to a gantry (you can see in the photos) at the back of my workbench and just about any part of the work area is accessible to it.ChrisH
My inductors are hot :( - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: AmmoJammo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2015, 08:27:39 am
content: So, I bought some of these off ebay:www.ebay.com.au/itm/14095684358093 cents each, how could you go wrong!And promptly modified them to do 12volts from the 3.3volt output, and 5volts from the 1.2volt output, with a 19volt input.So the 12volt output has a 8.2uH inductor, and the 5volt has a 3.3uH.I've got a 1000uf capacitor on the output of the 12volt supply, and 2200uf on the 5volt, with 1000uf on the 19volt input.Bench tested it at about 3amps on the 5volt rail, and 2amps on the 12volt... The device I plan to use this in needs about 2amps constant on the 5volt rail, and barely 200ma at 12volt.But it did the 3a/2a happily, regulators weren't too hot...However, I wasn't paying much attention to the inductor(s), and now its in the device, I've discovered that these are the source of the heat....Is this simply because the values are wrong for the current and voltage I'm needing? I drew a diagram, but it doesn't show much, its basically as per this:http://tayvoy.com/modul-przetwornicy-kiw-3312s/kiw-3312s_sch-2/but with some feedback resistors, and the 5.6v zener on the output removed.And here's a high res pic, thanks to someone elsehttp://i058.radikal.ru/1205/8b/96acaf5a353a.jpgThanks!

author: UncleBog
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 29, 2015, 09:32:45 am
content: Check the DC resistance of your inductors, then IxIxR is the power lost as heat. Consider the output current and the ripple current.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2015, 09:40:37 am
content: sounds like your over working them

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2015, 10:43:29 am
content: Yep, inductors also got a current rating. It's based on the wire gauge, length of wire and how it's wound. For a toroidal inductor the maximum current is about 1/4 to 1/3 of what the same wire would pass when it's a straight piece of wire.

author: AmmoJammo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2015, 10:36:12 pm
content: I know inductors have a power rating, I was lead to believe that the original design was meant to do about 4amps per output, but wasn't sure on the input voltageI'll measure the dc resistance later and see what I find, but I'd have to assume that the issue is what achmed said, however, what output current is the 1.8a peak ripple based on? Because the 12volt rail generally only has about 100ma load on it, increasing to 300ma occasionally (if I put a floppy disk in the drive)Cheers! (Sorry, typing from my phone)
My LED controller project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: zbrown
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 01:44:55 pm
content: Hey All,I've been working on a little pet project for a while. It's an STM32 based LED controller PCB that triggers animations on addressable LEDS through CAN bus for the FIRST robotics competition. I have a lot of experience with Arduino, FPV drones, and EE in general, but I've hit a wall with certain parts of this project. When it comes to the hardware, I think I have most things figured out, except for two things. First, I want to be able to program the animations to be cued somehow. My plan is to write a desktop or web application that allows you to design your animations and then write them through USB. My first headache came with the USB-C connector. There are so many different ways I can seemingly implement this, I want it do be simple, while keeping the advantages of USB-C. I really don't need high speed, only reversibility and the ability to put said animations on the chip.My second problem is really about storing the animations. The STM32 has plenty of space, but the more I look at how to use its non-volatile memory, the more intimidating and hard to use it seems. I've thought about using an external EEPROM, but I can't really find many that are as big as I want in the price range I'm looking for. So, I've been toying with the idea of using an SD card or other flash card instead. I've looked at the application notes for using the STM32 with an SD card, and it doesn't look terribly difficult electrically speaking, but I just wanted to get some external opinions on the idea. It makes the board more complicated, but it makes the programming theoretically simpler.I've also attached a screenshot of my initial schematic if you spot any egregious issues.Thanks,Zachhttps://6502.team

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 02:02:36 pm
content: Why torture yourself with USB-C complications for something like this that has zero need of USB-C (at least not that I can see)?Use legacy USB serial rather than USB-C.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2019, 04:44:53 pm
content: Using an SD card can simplify your problem of getting animation onto your board... just use your PC to write the them as files onto the SD card and pop the the new SD card into your STM32 board. Not as slick as uploading the data via USB (or even WiFi), but it's simple and it'll give you the ability to change the animations.But then you'll have to implement file system reading routines for your STM32. Fortunately this is a common problem and there are many examples of how to do this on the web, eg:https://github.com/eziya/STM32_SPI_SDCARDand there are Arduino libraries available too if that's what you're using.You'll also want to investigate ways of detecting when the SD card has been inserted and removed, eg:https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/207335/what-is-the-way-to-detect-sd-card-insertion-removal
My LED in my RC circuit is glowing after 5t - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: electrowhiz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2018, 07:22:15 am
content: I learnt about RC circuits. I decided to learn it practically. I created a circuit in which Resistor, LED, Capacitor are in series.LED is in between resistor and cap.I powered it using 9v battery. The value of resistor is 10k and cap is 220uf. The time constant is 2.2 sec. It will take 5t to get fully charged after which no current should flow i.e LED should be off. But led is slightly glowing. Why?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2018, 07:25:58 am
content: I’m no expert, but I assume it’s because components are not perfect. So their might be some leakage. And LEDs need VERY little current to glow slightly.

author: forrestc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 10, 2018, 08:28:42 am
content: Quote from: electrowhiz on July 10, 2018, 07:22:15 amMost capacitors have a certain amount of leakage. If they didn't they'd never discharge...Even if you've only got a few microamps of leakage, it's enough to have some leds slightly turn on - like you can tell it's glowing, not that it's really illuminated.

author: CJay
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2018, 08:53:18 am
content: Third on what the others have said, LEDs can glow with *tiny* amounts of current so they're not always a good way to demonstrate principles where components aren't perfect.There was a long running thread (like years) on another forum where someone had taken the LED module from an illuminated ballon complete with the tiny alkaline cells, it was still glowing slightly with sub microamp currents a couple of years later (and we think it was also charging the cells when exposed to light)
My new gpsdo questions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ME
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2025, 09:55:03 am
content: Firstly i hope this is the rite section to post this, I have just got my BH3SAP gpsdo, I followed the instructions to set it up after 1/2 hr the display says (top line) PPb -0.2 then -0.1 and keeps changing every 10 seconds or so, The bottom line gives PWM 26119 changing to 26118, can someone tell me whats going on and is this normal?, Thanks in advance.
my new microscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ME
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2025, 03:04:50 pm
content: I have the Andonstar AD249S-7inch version ,it can record pics onto a memory card but if i transfer pics from my pc to that card as jpegs can i then view them on the microscope screen?.

author: eugene
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2025, 05:52:58 pm
content: What's stopping you from trying it?

author: ME
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2025, 06:40:44 pm
content: i dont know how so thought i would ask incase anyone has tried it already.

author: ahsrabrifat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2025, 10:08:32 am
content: Quote from: ME on June 01, 2025, 03:04:50 pmYou can get some help from this old thread.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/manufacture/the-andonstar-hdmi-microscope-thread/