DeoxIt - which is which ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 05:56:10 pm
content: Hello everybody,I finally want to bite the bullet and get some Deoxit, but instead of one model, there are something like 5 or 6, gold, green, pink, whatever...., none of them exceedingly cheap, especially in Germany.So people with more experience with it could you please give a Deoxit noob a bit of tutoring, along with your practical experience and pro-tips ?Many thanks,DC1MC

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 06:22:15 pm
content: What is the application or what are they?KONTAKT CHEMIE Kontakt Gold 2000 uses polyphenyl ether, an extremely stable, well proven precious contact lubricant.Reicheltand others sell it.

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 06:54:45 pm
content: Quote from: jfiresto on October 31, 2020, 06:22:15 pmI have some contacts to clean, usually silver, copper or gold and while I have a Kontaktspray, it just makes a mess and actually it doesn't restore the contact, at least in my case. Not to mention leaving some kind of greasy residue. It is most likely thought for heavy industrial and automotive electric stuff, like fuse panels, vacuum cleaner engines and such, not for micro-contacts in electronic equipment.So I'd like to have the pipette-like drop bottle, where you put a drop precisely where you want it, but while in the US it seem to be just one sort of Deoxit that everybody uses on micro-contacts, in DE there are multiple types available in audiophools stores, sadly most of them in those disgusting sprays and most likely useless.So people that actually know what type is the best and how to use Deoxit, please chime in and help a contact cleaner noob.Thanks,DC1MC

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 07:25:50 pm
content: I have a can of MG Chemicals Super Contact Cleaner (with polyphenyl ether) which works fine. It seems to dry up too, which seems kind of suspicious to me, would a residue film not be helpful? At least it doesn't leave a mess, as the spray bottle is hard to meter. (I somtimes avoid that by squirting some in a thimble and using an applicator.)Tim

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 07:42:06 pm
content: The PPE should still be there: it is just microscopically thin and not going anywhere for a long time. In the mean time,here is an informative PDFfor your reading pleasure and to the greater glory of Fritz Ullmann.

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 08:19:02 pm
content: OK, so PPE is a very good as a protection and lubrication agent, nice to know and the PDF was very informative. But what about actual cleaning and removal of the oxides/dirt, and why nobody talks about Deoxit, nobody uses it here?DC1MC

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 08:48:54 pm
content: I have not tried the three-step, butKONTAKT CHEMIEsuggests a cleaner (Kontakt 60), wash (Kontakt WL) and finally protector/lubricant (Kontakt 61 or Gold 2000).

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 10:58:39 pm
content: Can or should Deoxit be used in very small amounts on clean SMA (RF) connectors?

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 11:14:47 pm
content: DeOxit has a complicated history and product range. The main thing to know is that they have three main types of contact cleaner/protectant, called D, G, and S. D is the original "Cramolin Red" type which is a cleaner as well as a preservative. It's available in bottles, pens, and aerosols, with a number pointing to roughly how much active ingredient is in the mixture. So D5 is 5%, etc.G was formerly called "ProGold" and is mainly a protectant with some cleaning properties, meant for preserving mostly clean gold plated contacts, although it works on other metals. For heavily oxidized or dirty contacts you should use D instead.S was called "DeOxit Shield" and is just a preservative with no cleaning ability.The PPE based products like MG Chemicals 801B are comparable to DeOxit G5.The following charts show the effects of D, G (ProGold), and S (PreserveIt). Note that D and G both enhance conductivity as well, while S does not.

author: Audiorepair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 11:49:39 pm
content: Interesting.There are lots of graphs showing no treatment against De-oxit treament, but no control.What if you just sprayed with de-ionised water to clean it?Didn't get a mention.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2020, 11:54:07 pm
content: While I don't doubt that the test is designed to show their products in a good light, these were done starting with perfectly clean contacts (so the cleaning ability is not being tested). I don't still have the link to the paper that describes the setup, but I think it's still available on the caiglabs site.Edit: This is the test.https://caig.com/shop-item/protection-test/

author: Audiorepair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 12:08:07 am
content: Quote from: helius on October 31, 2020, 11:54:07 pmNobody cleans new contacts.I suspect this data is manipulated to show their product in the best possible light and may not have much to do with real life.That said, I would love to have some data on these products in the real world, that would show some real world benefits instead.Like, spray it on some dirty switches or something, and see what works best.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 12:26:03 am
content: Quote from: Audiorepair on November 01, 2020, 12:08:07 amIt looks like you want it both ways. First you want to see what effect cleaning with DI water has, now cleaning is pointless. Maybe I wasn't sufficiently clear (as in bold type, twenty-four point, marquee) that it wasn't a test of cleaning ability.

author: Audiorepair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 01:02:00 am
content: I'm not sure what you are saying here.I am saying that if you want to conduct a meaningful experiment you need to have a control.The control I have in mind would be to spray with De-ionised water and include that in the graph as well.The only information those graphs from the manufacturer tell us is what happens when their products gets sprayed into the pots.De-ionised water might perform equally well, but the charts don't tell you that.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 02:07:00 am
content: I am not aware of any corrosion-inhibiting effects of spraying with DI water. You are suggesting that in a salt-spray test such as MIL-STD-810, that pre-wetting the part with DI water is going to retard corrosion to any measurable degree? Are you suggesting that testing labs accredited to MIL-STD-810 perform this "control" with DI water? Is the moon made of blue cheese?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 02:16:06 am
content: What?Quote from: helius on November 01, 2020, 02:07:00 amExactly, it serves as a control. What's your problem?One might argue that water is hardly inert, that isopropyl alcohol might be a better candidate as control. Or simply air, by cycling the contacts as one inevitably and futilely does, or compressed air in the hope of blowing away offending dust. Or better yet, test all of the above.Tim

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 02:26:54 am
content: Not treating the part in any way (beyond cleaning it) is also a control, one that Audiorepair believes is inadequate becauseQuote from: Audiorepair on November 01, 2020, 01:02:00 amI am not sure what the point of that experiment would be, since DI water doesn't (as in, can't) remove oxides.However, I should saymea culpa, because I didn't spend the time to fully analyze the charts this time (I first saw them over a decade ago). The first chart, ch-dpp-11.pdf, is a pure "preservation" (corrosion inhibition) test. The other two charts, ch-dpp-12.pdf and ch-dpp-13.pdf, are a test of both cleaning and preservation: that is why they start from a resistance of 1000 ohms (a coupon oxidized with H2S2). The first 12 hours are just resting as the products work at cleaning the oxides, then the corrosion test begins at the vertical line. The last chart only differs by also showing competing contact cleaner products, which is not very helpful without knowing what the "brand X" is.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 02:37:13 am
content: I regularly use two DeOxit products: the D type for cleaning, followed up with the S type for longer term protection. I have used these on Kelvin-Varley dividers, ratio transformers, rotary encoders, etc., and they have performed reliably and noise free for years afterwards.I have found the DeOxit products to be more effective than other contact cleaning products that I have tried. I know my experience isn't a scientific treatise... but I know what I like!

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 03:43:02 am
content: Many, many thanks @helius for providing a very documented and to the point answer, finally a bit of light is shed over this, to me, rather confusing issue. Now I know, at least at surface level (pun intended), which is which.I do now become curious about the "complicated history" of the product, if you have any interesting anecdotes please share.Also thanks to the people that took their time to answer, showing other products and detailing their personal experience.And of course I've learned that the 'pipette bottle" is called an applicator.Cheers,DC1MC

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 08:40:37 am
content: Digging trough-bay I've found this: Deoxit F5, could it be that is better for potentiometers, membrane switches and such ?https://www.ebay.de/itm/Caig-Laboratories-DeoxIT-57ml-FN5S-2N/193522021808Cheers,DC1MC

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 09:42:50 am
content: Quote from: DC1MC on November 01, 2020, 08:40:37 amConsider Deoxit F (Faderlube) for carbon tracks.Caig really ought to do a better job of indicating problem/use -> product.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 05:42:45 pm
content: Quote from: DC1MC on November 01, 2020, 03:43:02 amCramolin Red was a contact cleaner made in West Germany, and imported by Caig Labs in the USA. The two companies later terminated their relationship in a somewhat acrimonious way. (http://www.pitt.edu/~szekeres/caigcram.htm)The current version of Cramolin Red is Cramolin Contaclean. It is not often used or reviewed in the US, so there is a kind of trans-Atlantic split still. It is available from Conrad and RS in Europe.

author: GLouie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 06:24:33 pm
content: Another unscientific anecdotal user. It usually works pretty well, you shouldn't use very much. Sometimes, people like to flush out a pot, or want to spray a bunch into a blind hole in hopes of getting some onto the right area. Then you risk washing out existing lube, and you have to sop up excess petroleum naptha for days. The Faderlube (F) is sometimes better on carbon/plastic pot tracks than regular DeoxIT (D), and sometimes not, over time. Sometimes, a mystery, the pot is back to being noisy a week or year later.DeoxIT has changed the names over the years, offers many applicators and formula strengths. It takes careful reading to decipher. Usually when I need to reorder, the names have all changed.I use both spray cans and needle applicators of their "D" general cleaner lube and Faderlube (F). The D5 spray cans means 5% strength, the rest being mostly petroleum naptha carrier. The needle applicator bottles are 100% DeOxit, like F100L. In any case, I think a very thin film is all that you want.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 06:38:30 pm
content: Caig Labsis absolutely terrible at explaining their DeoxIT product line and the differences. The website is a delirious mess.I have to use the chemical composition data to figure it out, it's that bad.I have Fader Lube F5 "lubricant for conductive plastics and carbon-based controls" but findthere's no lube- spray it on a napkin and hours later there is no visible residue.It is really 3-7% special sauce (trade secret) and 40-70% Naptha. Reminds me of WD-40So I find their products work for oxidation- but are dangerous because controls need lubricant, and there is a lot of controversy over using petroleum-based such as mineral oil (Fluke) or silicone grease or teflon (Krytox). Naptha just evaporates fast and leaves nothing that I can observe. It's better for cleaning and flushing out dirt - only.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2020, 11:44:16 pm
content: Quote from: floobydust on November 01, 2020, 06:38:30 pmTry a few drops on a mirror and let it dry? I have never tried the F type, but the S type leaves a very, very, very thin layer of lubrication behind.

author: Ray Gianelli
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 06:16:41 pm
content: I don't remember where I got this, but it's a PDF that explains their product line.

author: Le_Bassiste
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 07:13:25 pm
content: Quote from: helius on October 31, 2020, 11:14:47 pmthanks for the list, helius.FWIW in this context, CRAMOLIN CONTACLEAN may also be considered, being much cheaper than the DEOXIT products.https://cramolin-shop.de/contaclean-200ml.html

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 07:31:05 pm
content: @Ray Gianelli - Many thanks, the PDF is indeed a nice summary.@Le_Bassiste - I have started to look into Cramolin products, they look very nice and finally I have found a conductive paint spray that I was looking for a long time, BUT... do they really need to come only in those giant sprays that splash allover and make a mess, why don't they make this "applicator" bottles with a concentrated solution to be able put it precisely where you need it, including hard to access place, I think I'm still shell shocked since somebody "helped" me with a rather complex switch with silver contacts, by hosing it with the bloody spray that destroyed the components surrounding it and killed the device completely. Why do Cramolin produces this things only in Electrician and Automecanic sizes.Cheers,DC1MC

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 07:46:23 pm
content: I'd make sure to check the MSDS sheets for any product to see if there is no acid in them. However the root of the problem is that an oxidized /worn contact no longer has the contact material in place. Sure a protective film may sound nice but it also helps to trap particles which form a nice grinding paste. I always cringe when people mention contact spray because I've seen too much nice equipment destroyed by it. In the end contact spray is only a short term solution to make a worn contact work for a short while. I wouldn't use it as a preventive measure either. Just clean the contact with IPA or any other solvent which doesn't leave a residue / attacks the materials surrounding the contact.

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 08:06:07 pm
content: Quote from: DC1MC on November 02, 2020, 07:31:05 pmStabilant 22 is available as a concentrate. It can be use directly or diluted.http://stabilant.com/sizes.htmlhttps://www.micro-tools.de/en/Contact-Enhancer/Stabilant-22-5ml-Kit-Makes-30ml-of-Stab.htmlhttps://www.micro-tools.de/en/Contact-Enhancer/Stabilant-22S-50mL.htmlhttps://www.micro-tools.de/en/Contact-Enhancer/Stabilant-22-15ml-Kit-Concentrate.html

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2020, 08:06:31 pm
content: When you look at contact and switch cleaners, the three main elements are important. Examples:Solvent: alcohol, petroleum naptha, hexane, 1-bromopropaneLubricant: nothing, mineral oil, fluorinated oils, siliconesAntioxidizer: polyphenylene ether PPE 2455-71-2, or "proprietary trade secret"Many contact cleaners are just that - cleaners. Almost entirely solvent which then leaves you with a "dry" switch.Do you want this for your precious Tektronix, Fluke test equipment?My complain about the deoxIT sprays is they are are mostly quick evaporating solvent (petroleum Naptha) CAS 64742-88-7. Also called mineral spirits, paint thinner. Note that WD-40 is also about 75% Naptha (and the rest paraffin oils). The solvent flushes out the dirt and old lubricants, leaving little or nothing significant behind for lube. And the stuff is silly expensive over USD$15 for a small can.The Caig sprays all list the same overall ingredients:40-70% Petroleum Naptha10-30% R-152A aerosol propellant3-7% proprietry - trade secret, likely their PPE recipeWhen Caig says "lubricates"... yes- for a while until things evaporate. I don't want potentiometers and rotary switches wearing out because they are dry. Real faders and potentiometers in recording consoles etc. use oil and grease in the mechanism, which gets washed out. What I do is spray and clean the contacts, and then oil the shaft and grease the slider/ratchets etc. in the mechanism.MG ChemicalsNu-Trol Control Cleaneruses mineral oil for the lube which I think is good - but has no PPE. Their PPE offering seems to have no long term lube. Fluke used to offer a lube based on mineral oil for their multimeters.Cramolin it seems is a victim of Caig warfare, the EPA banned it (due to the old days of CFC's and flammable propellants, which everyone used a long time ago). I'm not sure where the product is today in North America.http://www.pitt.edu/~szekeres/caigcram.htmP.S. sprayed Deoxit F5 onto a glass mirror and will see what gets left over.

author: Le_Bassiste
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 07:20:49 am
content: Quote from: DC1MC on November 02, 2020, 07:31:05 pmyep, that's always freaking me out, too. here's a solution. plastic modellers call it "decanting", they do it all the time with model paint spray cans:spray the contents of the spray can into a small flask or a syringe first. needs a little practice, but does the trick."Glass vial with pipette" is your friend.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 09:28:19 am
content: Quote from: Le_Bassiste on November 03, 2020, 07:20:49 amA jeweller's screwdriver can also do the trick, with a minimal drop on the tip.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2020, 02:30:50 pm
content: Quote from: oPossum on November 02, 2020, 08:06:07 pmStabilant 22 isn't a cleaner, though. It is awesome for putting on after cleaning with something else (e.g. DeOxit D family) first, for sure.I seem to recall VW sells Stabilant 22 as an official part, for dealing with electrical connector issues in their cars.

author: akimpowerscr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2020, 09:54:59 am
content: I have used this product for many years for the repair and maintenance of vintage audio devices and analog measuring instrumentsKF F2 Special contacts.https://www.reboul.fr/storage/00003a80.pdfI am extremely satisfied with it and can only recommend it.I also made this product known in the repair café where I volunteer and it was a great success.It is not very easy to find but it is on sale for example at Conrad.https://www.conrad.fr/p/nettoyant-de-contacts-kf-f2-special-contacts-1001-500-ml-065293

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2020, 12:02:56 pm
content: Quote from: akimpowerscr on November 04, 2020, 09:54:59 amInteresting, the CRC corporation has 2 different contact cleaners in the US market, but the European one seems to not be available there. Neither of them match the KF-F2 data sheet...

author: akimpowerscr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2020, 01:42:06 pm
content: There are indeed some strange things happening with this product.Conrad (France) refused to send this product to Belgium for some reason that I do not know of, possibly one of the chemical components banned in Belgium.I had to buy it from another supplier.(it must be said that the regulations in Belgium border on the absurd, I can no longer even buy a liter of hydrogen peroxide (H²O²) per year, which I needed to manufacture my printed circuits)

author: jdragoset
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2020, 09:20:25 pm
content: I have the 5% spray but prefer this one:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hosa-F100L-L25C-CAIG-DeoxIT-F100L-100-25ml-FADERLUBE-NEW-PERFECT-CIRCUIT/303011462692?hash=item468ce3fe24:g:doMAAOSwV9RcrkWNI've put it around the shaft on Allen Bradley 2W with the shaft end up and worked it in to where the noise stopped.It did go into the pot slowly.A long needle extension from a GC oil tube coupled with a piece of 22 gauge wire insulation gives a longer reach.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2020, 09:22:16 pm
content: Quote from: jdragoset on November 04, 2020, 09:20:25 pmWhat's a "GC oil tube"?

author: breadbox
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2020, 10:38:19 pm
content: QuoteThis up-to-date (2020) document is supposed to help in matching product to problem:https://acct113328.app.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=170043&c=ACCT113328&h=898c653b87b99e3d5743&_xt=.pdfInfo on pots/faders:Quote

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2020, 11:40:38 pm
content: That document is rather suspect:QuoteThe first time anywhere I have seen silver called ferrous. (Neither nickel nor tin is ferrous, either).

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2020, 03:32:02 am
content: Quote from: floobydust on November 02, 2020, 08:06:31 pmDeoxit F5 on the mirror, the naptha evaporates in a few hours leaving the tiniest film behind - it's like fingerprint smudges, can hardly see it. It would be the polyphenylene ether (PPE) and not enough for a control lubricant IMHO but ok for a potentiometer.Note there is a newL260DCaig Labs lithium grease with Deoxit that looks much better for switches.It's kind of funny because TV tuner's multi-deck rotary switches were a constant problem 40 years ago. They oxidized and the silver contacts went bad, so the weak RF paths would cut out.In the TV shop, the Boss offered customers two options: spray clean"Tun-O-Wash"or the full deal - take the tuner apart and clean the switch wafers with a soft pencil eraser and paper. It worked the best - no recalls and lasted years. I hated pulling tuners out and taking them apart.There were some contact cleaning sprays with abrasives but they still couldn't really clean the oxides off. You'd have to spray that in, then spray in a cleaner, then spray in a lubricant and what a stinky trichloroethylene mess.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2020, 04:27:48 am
content: You basically need 5 types, its a big investment but I found you use the red one the most.Red spray - metal contacts, fuse body (keep fuse holders and fuses in good shape)gold spray - gold contactsfader lube - moving stuff that is difficult to access (usually cermet, also convenient to just spray hinges and what not if necessary, I imagine people like them for like cassette decks or something)shield - lead acid battery, portable DMM , power supply terminals, test leads, etc (appealing if you do wet chemistry work with electronics, i.e. electroplating, electrocleaning) (you use this after the other appropriate sprays)grease - heavy moving stuff, crimps. You put it in a crimp body or you wipe it on something like a clean rheostat or variac wiper if you restore themWhen you have alot of stuff you can hit up an entire instrument. I.e. in my HP-spectrum analyzer backup box I want to say I used every deoxit product in different parts, especially since it has a lead acid battery in there. I put it on RF stuff also because the connector getting damaged from bad environmental conditions is more of a problem to me then worrying about metrological precision, I want my stuff to stay economical. I have yet to see what it does to VNA at high frequency. I also apply deoxit to expensive phone ports and whatnot.I have only been using the spray cans, the other products in the eco system are useful I think. You need like a source meter to see it work.If you actually use them and make due with connectors that are likely not perfect, these products save you money and time keeping gear in service. When you have alot and you actually want to do something without doing a crazy amount of restorations and repairs, its useful. I.e. sparsely used function generator, do you want to replace 8 panel mount BNC connectors and a whole bunch of other stuff when you have more important work to do? I restore some equipment once in a while but usually the rate of stuff coming in and the rate of actually doing stuff makes deoxit use appealing. If you are just a restorer that does not really have over arching objectives then I guess the deoxit product family is less useful and you can figure out how to cheap out (i.e. buy a bunch of brand new 15$ each connectors and switches for a 50$ purchase, I try not to double cost if I can).

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2020, 04:51:09 am
content: Quote from: floobydust on November 05, 2020, 03:32:02 amI looked up the polyphenylene ether stuff, here's what Wikipedia has to say:QuoteSounds like a pretty good ingredient to leave behind!

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2020, 05:19:47 am
content: sometimes its hard to take switches apart because the clasps might fail if they are crimped closed, then it costs alot of time to fix that broken part usually.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2020, 12:29:36 pm
content: Not just switches... E.g. if you like working on cars, you know how much things love to break when taken apart! There seems to be some version of entropy at work here...

author: jdragoset
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2020, 09:22:26 pm
content: Quote: What's a "GC oil tube"?GC Electronics makes, used to make a wide variety of electronic chemicals.One of those was an oiler with a detachable, 4" long blunt end, angle tip hollow needle.Looking online I don't see it availablehttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Luer-lock-blunt-end-needles-dispensing-needle-tips-4-inch-18-Gauge-5-pcs/332589819650?hash=item4d6fe5e702:g:C7MAAOSwjXVarZ~S

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2020, 11:22:44 pm
content: They used to be called a "pen oiler" but I have never found them for years now. They use a needle and were really good to dispense a drop wherever you want, instead of a flood of piss spray all over the placeClosest I could find is aLee Valley Tools Precision Oiler Pen 25K7002but it's crap, oil leaked out. The end is metal-metal seal and of course oil seeps past it.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2020, 01:04:00 am
content: Something likeEngineer ZC-19?

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2020, 03:10:42 am
content: I would love to get a set of these in DE, with reasonable price:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plastic-Squeeze-Bottles-1oz-2oz-4oz-10ML-Syringe-1-5-Applicators-For-Gun-Oil/122600736646

author: jdragoset
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2020, 02:41:42 pm
content: Seller offers $12 US shipping to Germany plus $8 each additional item.