Longer Orange 10 3D resin printer $165.20 on Amazon - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2019, 06:12:26 am
content: Just ordered this,Longer Orange 10 3-D printerfrom Amazon. Been looking at it for a while at $230.00, the maker has them at a "special discount" 'til Christmas I guess.it has mixed reviews, many of which report broken components; in large part I ignore these as i am not "ham-handed", and generally treat my tools "as I would have them treat me" (my apologies to King James).My research has indicated the the resin printed 3-D "prints" are higher resolution than filament printed models. and perhaps resist lateral forces better than fused deposition prints. It is an odd-ball "how can that work" system using only Z-axis motion, a vat of UV curing resin and UV LEDs projecting through an LCD shutter--at each layer of the "printing" the LCD shutter ( 854 x 480 in the unit I bought) allows UV through to cure the resin that will comprise the finished printout, the Z-axis driver then raises the platen by a smll bit, 0.05 mm (0.002") in order to "print the next layer..It's sort of a CAT scan in reverse.Aside from being neat toy, I have a couple of projects for whicj 3D printing would be a perfect solution.The maximum "printout" size is 140 mm (Z) x 55 mm (Y) x 98 mm (X) not huge, but pretty good sized to do things like make a USB rechargeable 9V battery holding case extension for a DSO-150, etc.Support (viahttp://www.longer3d.com/) seems strong, with several DIY solutions to the "problems" reported by many reviewers...

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2019, 12:57:34 pm
content: Keep updating, your experience with this print

author: dkggpeters
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2019, 12:03:02 am
content: It is amazing how inexpensive these printers are now and they appear to work very well if setup properly.Please keep us updated on what you think of it.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2019, 01:31:19 am
content: Subbing for interest. But I keep telling myself I don't want to deal with the mess and post processing for any of the resin based systemsI still might get a resin printer to play with however

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2019, 06:58:19 am
content: I received the printer Tuesday (12/24/2019) and had it unboxed and assembled in < 10 minutes. 1h and 45 m later I was cleaning my first "printout"; a Wonder Woman cookie cutter for SWMBO:This was done at the most "coarse" layer thickness the printer is capable of, 50 μM (0.050 mm, it can do 0.01 mm; 10 μM). My first thought; "Hot damn thing thing is amazing", and I set out to do my DSO-150 battery holder (it was also printed at the 50 μM "coarse" layer thickness):This case extension will--sometime later this week if family and friends leave me alone for a while-- house a USB rechargeable "9V" battery, and a relocated power switch.The machine is VERY well constructed, the firmware does just what it is supposed too--it is a "good thing".The dreaded post processing procedure is a piece of cake, I put a pint of rubbing alcohol in a 1 gallon bait bucket that was handy and swished it around for a couple minutes; the goop just disappeared, dissolved into the spirits. Next I washed the printouts in hot water and Dove dishwashing liquid--blow 'em off with air, give 'em 15 to 20 minutes in a DIY 40W UV curing box and they are ready to go.After printing out the DSO-150 case I did a batch of 8 BNC dust caps (the model came from fromThingverse), cleaned them as above and threw the platen and resin tank into the bait bucket and left over over alcohol. Swished then around with a bit of old tooth brush scrubbing (I used my grandson's) then wiped them down with clean paper towel and alcohol--all done..The DSO-150 battery case was first created inFreeCAD, then further manipulated and sliced usingChiTuBox(Google it; good software, horrid name). The entire bottom of the USB "9V" battery glows red or blue to indicate charging state; that's why the big hole.I also usedChiTuBoxto clone the single BNC cap to 8 units, so as to print 8 at a time:By any determination of final product resolution and composite integrity this technology blows FFA out of the water--it will be interestin to see where it is 10 year from now...

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2019, 07:04:29 am
content: Looks good.To be fair what keeping a little of the planets health in the world are you going to do with the 'waste' IPA/resin? Locally we have exactly ZERO options for this so it would be burn it or even worse down the sewerVery wise choice doing print #1 for SHMBO

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2019, 07:21:25 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on December 27, 2019, 07:04:29 amI am not as stupid as I look; that would not be possible...

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2019, 11:01:54 am
content: how strong is this stuff? How does that battery holder you made do in a drop test?

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2019, 12:49:21 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on December 27, 2019, 11:01:54 amI have not performed any destructive testing of the battery case; however yesterday some number of grand- and great-grand children did their best with the WW cookie cutter,almost ritualistically throwing it at one another in the garage and driveway. It survived the "grand-children" test quite nicely.I find the finished product to be not at all brittle, more akin in density and feel to polypropylene--this using Longer's "Standard" rapid resin--250 ml of which was included with the machine (I've used about 100 ml with the few things i've printed. There aremany resin types from which to choose.There is no indication of the extreme fragility I have seen attributed to SLA printing by it's critics and others heavily invested in FFA technology.As with all things though; time will tell...

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2020, 03:39:59 am
content: BTW-- I loaded theopen source DSO-150 firmware; highly recommended!

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2020, 06:47:40 am
content: That looks quite impressive! For the most part I've been underwhelmed by hobby 3D printers. The filament type produce results that under ideal circumstances I would consider acceptable for prototyping but sub-par as finished projects. For me I think the holy grail would be something that can print sufficiently precise and durable parts to create replacement plastic gears, knobs and other hardware.

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2020, 07:04:40 am
content: Quote from: james_s on January 03, 2020, 06:47:40 amTHat has been my position re: 3D printers for some time--I came close to buying one 3-4 years ago, but the more i looked at the fused filament machine "prints", the less I was interested (same observations/opinion as yourself); I am glad I waited, this technology will blow FFA out of the water, it will be interesting to see what its like in 5 years!I am so pleased with this printer that i plan on buying its big brother--the Longer Orange 30--as soon as I can convince SWMBO it's a good investment.I could not be happier or more impressed with what it can do...

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2020, 10:07:23 pm
content: How hard is handle the resin, clean up the machine, and store back the remaining resin? Do you lose a lot or a little on this process?

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2020, 12:38:57 am
content: Quote from: ebclr on January 03, 2020, 10:07:23 pmIt is not at all difficult, the goop handles a lot like motor oil. I described the post-processing and clean up in my post up above (the one with all the pictures). The uncured resin washes off easily with rubbing alcohol. Resin loss during clean-up is negligible.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2020, 02:26:44 am
content: Quote from: james_s on January 03, 2020, 06:47:40 amYou miss some of the point of FDM or any sort of additive manufacturing. It now provides a low cost entry into formed or engineered plastics without the need, expense or skills for full blown CNC machining. Yes FDM has layer lines and you will never get rid of them so embrace the look. I use mine to make enclosures, tooling and jigs and when used commercially for one offs a few minutes talking to a client about the process and you 'made them a custom X' gets over any hurdles or questions they may have. Even from my own uses the printers have easily saved their initial cost in machining time from outsourcing jobs.The main issue still remains with Resin printing waste, cleanup and disposal. The mechanical properties available and range of resins is getting better all the time so sometime this year I am likely to add one to the fleet.Additive manufacturing by all processes is by it's nature not strictly commercial due to time taken to produce items but from rockets (metal sintered) to widgets it is a win for Engineering.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2020, 04:26:26 am
content: I get the point, the quality is just not up to my standards. I don't want to embrace the look, IMHO it looks like shit and that isn't what I want my projects to look like. I know that some people have gotten much use out of filament 3D printers, a friend of mine got one years ago and uses it heavily but I've yet to find anything compelling to do with one. He's tried to print a few different parts for me and so far none have turned out good enough to be usable. The cheapest 99c knockoff injection molded project box from China has a superior surface finish.The output of this resin printer looks really good though, I can see it potentially producing usable custom housings and knobs, possibly trim and visor clips and other various plastic parts for my cars, stuff that eventually breaks and is no longer available. It's the first hobby 3D printer I've seen produce parts that I wouldn't reject and toss in the bin.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2020, 04:34:17 am
content: You can machine 3D printed parts for a better surface finish.It's not like cast metal right out of the mold has a great surface finish either...

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2020, 04:40:50 am
content: Your standards for prototyping and one of jobs then are clearly beyond common sense thenThere is no argument from me on surface finish not being perfect but I object to you calling them 'shit' and 'unusable' this is emotive and overstated CRAP !A year ago this was the standard of finish I got on a small box at the time I think it was between print #10-20 I had done. It is 0.2mm layer heights so the sides could have been made better but the 'finish' on the surfaces is a long way from your ambit claims. The world has moved on in the last few years with the results of FDM. Printed on my then stock CR-10S with generic PLA.Resin printers are not a panacea either and have their issues and as stated their surface quality is not one of them. If I was to make mechanical tooling then at this stage Resin is not where I would be going. Your fine detail, gears (small) and knobs are appropriate but larger gears for example FDM and Nylon/derivatives will be a much tougher job.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2020, 05:29:00 am
content: If you don't already know, you can 'regenerate' your cleaning IPA by exposing it to UV for a while to cure all the dissolved resin in it, then filter it through a coffee filter to leave behind just the clean IPA to then continue using.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2020, 06:21:53 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on January 04, 2020, 04:40:50 amThat orange box is pretty good, I still don't like the lines in the finish but it's better than 99% of the filament 3D printed stuff I see. I'm also not saying that resin printers are the end-all solution, all I'm saying is that these few samples presented here are impressive, it's the first time I've ever seen a home 3D printed part and thought "Wow, that looks really good!" I'm not rushing out to buy a resin printer but I am intrigued, if it can make replacement knobs and other plastic bits for test equipment and vintage electronics or classic cars for example it would be worth having just for that.I'm a perfectionist, always have been, always will be. I have high standards for anything I build, I don't always achieve them but I certainly try. These were one-off personal projects, the counter was a bare PCB kit that I built the housing for, hence the logo of the kit supplier, the others were scratch builds. I hadn't yet made the decal for the DAC so it's just a plain box in that picture. Filament 3D printing can't match the quality of an injection molded housing, even a cheap one and at least in my experience it takes a lot of tweaking and fiddling to get it to print something fairly regularly without significant imperfections and do-overs. That's great that the quality of a 3D printed part is good enough for some but it's not good enough for me, I want a smooth surface that looks like a commercial product and I don't want to spend time machining the printed part. I have high hopes for the future of 3D printing but so far I have just not been impressed with the output of filament machines, sorry, it's not a personal stab at anyone, I just think the lines through the finish look crappy, it gives me the same impression as a project that has an Arduino and a solderless breadboard mounted inside a project box. I look at a project or part and can immediately see that somebody 3D printed that in their basement. My friend printed a set of knobs for a vintage sampler synth he repaired while it looked better than having most of the knobs missing or broken it was still obvious at a glance that they were not original.

author: jh15
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 02:59:01 am
content: Guess it won't like my linux machines. Run on WINE? Do you have to join facecloth for support? Just jumped in her, will research.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 10:07:27 am
content: Quote from: james_s on January 04, 2020, 06:21:53 amYou're a perfectionist and you put thebareexposed Philips screwed lid on thetopof your Volume box? A perfectionist would have used the box the other way up and preferably covered the screws with feet. A diecast box has a much better (and pleasantly tapered finish) on the bottom.

author: reboots
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 05:21:29 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on January 07, 2020, 10:07:27 amCounterpoint: fasteners are beautiful, and deserve visibility. Concealing them complicates maintenance. And unless the box is gasketed (as in the mail notifier example), positioning the lid on the bottom could allow spilled liquids to enter the enclosure.Perfection is a worthy but unattainable ideal; one must cultivate an appreciation for the elegant compromise.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 05:58:49 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on January 07, 2020, 10:07:27 amI like the exposed screws, they're easily accessible in case I ever want to open it up. I could have easily done it the other way but this was a conscious design decision. Also it was based on a project that was published somewhere and I think the original designer did it the same way, but it was a complete scratch build, I etched the PCB and powder coated the diecast box myself. Concealed fasteners are one of my pet peeves, I really hate having to damage a printed decal or something to take something apart or break it trying to free a clip only to realize there's a stupid hidden screw.The mail notifier box is gasketed simply because I already had some of those boxes on hand and the clear lid worked well for something that lights up internally. They are low quality Chinese clones that have a poor finish which I would not have bought had I seen them ahead of time however I think the end result came out quite well. I built one for my mom too, she loves it as she receives payments for her business in the mail and doesn't like to leave them in the box unattended even though it has a lock.

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 06:12:19 pm
content: Quote from: cliffyk on January 03, 2020, 07:04:40 amMaybe keep the small one going for a while, to see how it holds up. The fundamental design issue with these low-cost resin printers seems to be that the LCD gets damaged by the UV irradiation; they use plain old display LCDs which were never meant to see intense UV. But reports on how long that takes before it affects functionality vary a lot.(The better resin printers use reflective DMD arrays and relay imaging optics instead, which do survive UV long-term. But that gets you into a different price range.)

author: reboots
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 06:30:19 pm
content: Quote from: ebastler on January 07, 2020, 06:12:19 pmLonger offers a replacement LCD for 30USD, which does suggest that it's a wear item:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TK96KS7

author: artag
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2020, 07:31:39 pm
content: Is there a good place where the operation and design of these printers is discussed ? I can find generic forums for FDM printers but SLAs seem to be siloed by manufacturer - there is little DIY or development discussion.This was not always the case : there was a good forum on DIY DLP printers on google plus, I believe. Unfortunately it disappeared when that closed.Good finish is certainly not a strong point for any sort of 3D printer. However, the best use I have seen them put to was on the development of a knitting machine. The parts didn't look pretty but a new mounting bracket or spacing piece could be spun out much more quickly than even in a well-equipped workshop - especially if several had to be made. That experience convinced me they had uses even if if wasn't to make beautifully finished products.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2020, 12:04:07 am
content: Robust and rapid tooling is one of the great uses for 3D printing be it filament or resin. In my day job I needed some bits for overhauling Lever Espresso machines. The pin spanner is available ex Italy for a lot of $$ so I rolled my own. It gets used with a 2' wrench and the spring compressor gets used with two adjustable clamps. While not in daily use the sub $20 worth of filament and hardware beats importing or likely paying someone else $2-300 to make them.The right most part was the first pin spanner but it couldn't be used for reassembly so I rolled the vertical pinned one which does both.

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2020, 05:04:43 pm
content: Quote from: jh15 on January 07, 2020, 02:59:01 amI am running all I need on Linux Mint 18.3, native mode; I useChitUBox 1.6.1for minor editing and slicing (With aChitUBOx plug-in provided by Longer).For original design work and intensive editing I useFreeCAD 0.18. It's a great application, but at version 0.18 it can at times be a bit flaky.

author: jh15
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2020, 01:48:50 am
content: thanks!

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2020, 03:45:36 am
content: Hello all thought I update my 3D printing experience.After a couple months I found that I really liked the Orange 10, but for it's smallish build capacity (98 x 55 x 140 mm). So I bought an Elegoo Mars device (120 x 68 x 170 mm). Out of the box the maximum Z-axis capacity is 155 mm, however the firmware and build platform clamp screw can be easily modified to get 170 mm travel. Operationally they are very similar, arguably identical. I still have the Longer having not worked up the ambition to list it for sale anywhere (this may be a "first love" inhibition thing, IDK).What I Have Learned About 3D Resin Printing (in n o special order):The cheap "rapid" resins (anything < $50/kilogram)--and any advertised as "ABS like"--are worthless, too brittle to be of any use for any working components (I don't do "dolls" so I don't know about that;Most resins state using Isopropyl Alcohol ("rubbing" alcohol in 70 or 90% concentrations) as a "post-printing" rinse (30 seconds or so). However as a result of the COVID-19 scare that is in short supply. I have been using KLeen-Strip's alcohol "fuel" (50-60% methanol, 50-60% ethanol, $17 a gallon at Home Depot) as an alternative--it works quite a bit better, requiring less to rinse the models, I have also skipped the alcohol and used a 75/25 mix of tap water andMean Greendegreasing cleanser. It works well also--I suspectPurple Power,Mr. Clean,Fabuloso, or whatever your favourite might be will work just as well;After the rinse I give then a final scrubbing with hot water, a soft brush, an a squirt bottle of full strengthMean Green(dry with compressed air). This is essential if you plan on painting the component;For most flat or "flatter" models you will need to angle the object and use supports, the resin will puddle on any horizontal flat surfaces and look like "puddled resin" on the final print;A makeup paddle thingy for SWMBOPost printing/cleaning final curing is necessary. This can be done in seconds/minutes using artificial UV light, or hours of exposure to sunlight.The best resins are those labeled as being "engineering", "flexible/flex", etc. They are typically urethane based and have post-cure "elongation at break" specs of 25% or better (stay away from the cheap "11 to 20%" rated crap. Expect to pay $60+ per kilogram.Being by nature an impatient sort, not wild about being dependent on the whims of Mother Nature, I originally purchased an inexpensive 6 W UV flood lamp and cheap little plastic jewelry "display" turntable from Amazon. Using these and a foil lined cardboard shroud I could properly post cure a print in 5 to 10 minutes.But, seeking something automated and faster it occurred to me that a small microwave oven, gutted of the MW stuff, had what I needed--a nice chamber, turntable and timer. I found a nice 0.7 ft³ unit on Craigslist for $10, and replaced the magnetron, HV transformer and ballast capacitor/diode with a 30 W UV LED (of precisely 405 nm wavelength as needed by the resin) and a constant current 900 ma/33 V power supply. Wiring that up to the microwave's timer/control relay gave ne just what I needed:The finished product:The UV LED was mounted (w/ heat sink compound) to an old CPU heat sink, that assembly then mounted in an enlarged hole where the magnetron and it's waveguide had been in the side of the oven. There was plenty of room in the oven's side compartment for the LED, heat sink and LED power supply. There are two screws mechanically fastening the heat sink to the wall, I used metallic duct tape to seal and "pretty" it all up.The microwave's active cross flow cooling, designed for a 700 W device, is entirely adequate to the 30 W LED's cooling needs.I also used a couple of strips of the tape o the oven's door, as the 30W lED is very bright (10-20 seconds will cure anything, were I doing this again I might use a 10 W LED).Here's a link tothe LED on Amazon($16.29);And theconstant current power supply($10.92);Here are some photos of the finished project;just a plain 'ol microwaveUV LED mounted on an old CPU heat sink and installed in place of the magnetron--the "bump" above the LED is left over waveguide I did not remove. (I see I need yet to clean up some of the grinding dust from enlarging the hole):Chrome duct tape on window in m-wave door--I had considered lining the entire interior with foil, however with the 30 W LED the gloss white seems to relect the UV quite well...LED ONroom lights onLED ON, room lights offOEM schematic of m-waveAs modified schematic of m-waveFun stuff I've made:2020 Participation TrophyF-Bomb-- Do not drop; dropping the "F-Bomb" is bad...

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2020, 12:25:54 am
content: I printed a battery holder with 8 second exposure time on ABS like resin and it broke when I dropped it on ceramic tile, like obsidian. maybe it will do better on the recommended 10-14 second exposure time.

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2020, 12:48:32 am
content: All of the "ABS like" resins I have used have been brittle as Heck--the worse was Elegoo's water washable garbage; scary brittle and quite worthless--I wrote an unflattering review on Amazon and Elegoo contacted me offering a free liter of any resin they offered as compensation--indicating to me they know it's crap.One of the better reasonably priced ($54 per kg) resins I've used was Phrozen Functional Beige Flex--however i have not been able to get it for the last 6 months or so. I found that mixing it 50/50 with the "ABS-like" stuff greater improved the impact resistance of the latter.I have heard good things about the Siraya Tech Tenacious resin ($65 / kg from Amazon), with reports that mixing it with the cheap crap improves resilience as well. Once my wallet recovers from the "season" I am going to get some ...

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 21, 2020, 12:54:19 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on December 21, 2020, 12:25:54 amWhy would it matter when you are supposed to additionally UV cure it afterwards?

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2020, 01:21:08 am
content: The recommended post curing makes the cheap "ABS-like" resins even more brittle. To use a seasonal metaphor they snap like a well-cured wishbone.To be frank l I had become disillusioned with the utility of LCD shutter based SLA printing until I moved up to the Phrozen Beige Flex resin (35% to 45% elongation at break)--I've gone through 5 kg of it since April; but it has not been available on Amazon since mid-August--just used the last of my store today in fact, mixed with some gray "ABS-like" crap-- maybe I used it all up?.The $30/kg "ABS-like" stuff rated to have 7% to 10% elongation at break is a complete waste of money; usable only for items that will not have to endure any load and never be "dropped" like my F-bomb:

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2020, 08:04:02 pm
content: That F-bomb is way funnier than it ought to be, I smirk every time I see that picture.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2020, 08:27:02 pm
content: I think its alright so long you make the parts thick. I printed some other stuff with flaws (vortex tube) and it required a hammer and some force to take apart.Things like the seek thermal camera bracket are fine. I don't think your FBOMB will break if you drop it. I think the 'sandie' pen is decently strong also. The SD card holders are made are very strong I think, but that is all thick stuff.I did notice a great strength increase at 14 seconds.I think you just need to be mindful of the design you use, there is stuff that does not seem executable with certain resins. I think calling the resin 'useless' is jumping a gun but I don't like hyper engineered mechanical design with plastic in general.I printed maybe a gallon worth of things and the only stuff that gave me problems is like thin stuff with sharp edges (i.e. thin box lids, thin housings). Mainly stuff I look at that makes me think 'this guy was only thinking about weight'. I think it comes with trying to clone polyethylene injection mold designs in plastics that are way less flexible. Usually even in the natural form those designs make me think 'cheap bs'.

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2020, 12:43:38 am
content: Quote from: james_s on December 22, 2020, 08:04:02 pmDo you recognize the base model? It's "Fat Man"...

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2020, 12:53:16 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on December 22, 2020, 08:27:02 pmThat is the core of engineering, knowing the characteristics of your materials and designing accordingly..A professor many years back (most likely John Heywood, he was my favourite) perfectly defined engineering as "Making what you want from what you have."

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2020, 01:32:49 am
content: part of the appeal of a 3d printer for me was that I could go quickly print a bunch of stuff that is already designed to help 'pay it off' a little while learning by using thingiverse and such.Now with the cost of resin its a far cry to pay it off but I accumulated a few missing knob repair jobs, brackets, stuff for thermal camera.. I would say I maybe broke even, even with having to buy more FEP film. Some weird stuff like thermal SMD microscope that actually works proper with adjustments.. stuff I could have made the old fashioned way but given the effort required to do the design, thingverse was useful. When parts look like too much shit its often easier to use epoxy putty and paint on them afterwards when you are playing with it to see if it is weak anywhere.Also, keep in mind the 3d printer is not only for functional parts, but if you do casting.. its invaluable even with the weakest non realistic garbage parts since the material changes. Total game changer there..My favorite thing is make the complex portion of it out of 3d print then just bend metal and glue it to make a respectable hybrid. You just need to get glues right.The problem is that those websites don't give you much detail on the parts.. so you pretty much need to print a variety to see what the fails are, if you are a hands on learner. now I got a bit of a feel for what looks like BS. Sometimes its probobly cheaper to put a metal back plane or something on some parts then to try to figure out how thick to make it.Also I found that for threads and whatnot, using automotive paint correction chemicals to wet-fit parts is excellent to reduce friction.

author: ralphrmartin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2021, 04:50:12 pm
content: Just ordered myself one of these for a mere £85 off eBay UK as "Open box / New", which is just amazing. I remember that the first SLA printer i saw cost a 6 figure sum.Cliff, is there anything you can share with us now, that you wish you had known when you started out, apart from your comments above? And while you say to avoid cheap resin, can you tell us which one(s) you feel to be the best trade off between durability of finished item and price - and the settings you use for that resin?Thanks!Ralph