Kikusui PAN35-20A 700W linear DC power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 04, 2020, 10:24:39 pm
content: I've been looking around recently for a reasonably priced mid-range power supply (used). In my search on eBay I came across a Kikusui PAN 35-20A which seem like an ok fit.Kikusui PAN 35-20A- Linear DC power supply- Single channel- 0-35V- 0-20A- 700W- CC/CVThe US eBay seller has more than 10 units, was only asking ~$130 and shipping is free. He accepted my $100 offer, so now it is on the way.The unit has a few issues of course at that price:- Missing both front V/I adjustment knobs.- Front V/I adjustment knobs are disabled, and only setup for ext analog programming.- Sticker on back says configured for 100V 50/60HzFor the first problem, I plan to just order some knobs from Digi-Key after measuring the potentiometer shafts. The second issue (ext analog programing only) is the only one that really concerns me. After reading the manual though, this behavior is configurable so I expect it can be changed back to normal. For the 100V input, I contacted Kikusui and they provided a document showing the wiring configuration for 120V.So, $100 shipped for a 700W linear power supply, with what appears to be a few fixable issues. This model is $2k new. While it's an older model, it is still listed along side Kikusui's newer power supplies on their US website. The interface is meh, but I can easily live with it for the price if it all works out.Luckily, I was also able to find most of the service manual.It is not 100% complete but I have the schematics, and the factory calibration procedure (it is missing the full parts list unfortunately).eBay listing if interested:https://www.ebay.com/itm/132868975350#I am in no way affiliated with this item or the seller.Datasheet/manual/etc:https://www.kikusuiamerica.com/product/detail.php?IdFamily=0003PAN-A Series service manual:https://www.dropbox.com/s/lp57o88pyzhe1ea/PAN-A%20SERIRES_Service_Manual.zip?dl=0**Update on Repair**Cost to repair: ~$15.00Parts to purchase for repair:1x - Trimmer 2kOhm -https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nidec-copal-electronics/CT6EP202/CT6EP202-ND/7383082x - MOVs appropriate for your line voltage (I used these) -https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bourns-inc/MOV-14D241K/MOV-14D241K-ND/27991142x - Knobs - M6 shaft -https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/kilo-international/OEJNI-50-2-7/226-4209-ND/59703651x - 1uF - Capacitor 25V - Tantulum (0805) -https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/avx-corporation/TPSR105K025R2500/478-11121-1-ND/7536201I also replaced the 10-turn pots and provide a link further down, although I don't consider that necessary.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 01:49:46 am
content: A pretty good deal to meI have a PAD serie and i love it.

author: eevcandies
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 05:25:53 am
content: I have one of those it is great. Over time I have collected quite a few Kikusui supplies: severaL PAD's, PAN, PAK, PMPA few years ago someone was selling about 5 or 6 of these for $99 each....foolishly I only bought one:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kikusui-PAK35-30A-0-35V-0-30A-Power-Supply-E/164030712802?hash=item2630fe0be2:g:odIAAOSwYBpeHUPLAbout a year ago , I bought one of these quad output Kikusui for about $80 ($140 with shipping)...they were selling them right and left & apparently they STILL ARE, every few weeks...so far I haven't actually used it...it has some sequencing settings for the 4 channels (LOOK UNDER COMPLETED LISTING FOR PHOTOS):https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kikusui-PMP16-1QU-4-Channel-06V-0-16V-016V-025V-Regulated-DC-Power-Supply/254564913803?epid=15025745400&hash=item3b4540528b:g:-n8AAOSwk2tcpoxWThe removable plastic "thingies" on the banana jacks are just some sort of wire holders.It has several memory settings you can select from via some rear terminals...probably good for a test stand

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 05:44:34 am
content: Quote from: eevcandies on May 05, 2020, 05:25:53 amI'm most likely going to pick up a second if every thing turns out ok with the first one. According to the manual, up to 3 units of the same model are supported in a master/slave configuration for either series or parallel output.The big question in my mind is how bad is the fan noise?I'm already preparing myself for the worse when it comes to the fan...

author: eevcandies
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 06:10:03 am
content: Quotewatch your wall outlet! Or switch to 220...sounds like you like a lot of amps (or maybe want a bipolar setup).I keep saying I'm NOT gonna buy another power supply......until the next one

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 07:21:03 am
content: Quote from: eevcandies on May 05, 2020, 06:10:03 amDamn, it's been a while since I've been forced to consider the available power in my office/lab. Most of my stuff is fairly low power. Although, years ago I bought a 1000W hot air station that gave me some issues due to the power draw. Now that I've been reminded, two maybe one too many.

author: alm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 08:31:36 pm
content: Thanks for sharing the manual. As I've seen in an older Kikusui dummy load, the transformer has twin primaries with 100V, 110V and 120V taps, so reconfiguring it for a different input voltage should be straight-forward. Just make sure the fan and auxiliary transfomer remain connected to the 100 V tap.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 10:50:29 pm
content: The power supply has already arrived. It will need a bit of cleaning and some sticker removal, although nothing too bad (from the outside atleast). Overall it looks ok so far.First casual inspection shows from the front panel, that it is manually configured for Ext voltage programming. So theoretically regaining voltage control from the front panel is just a flick of a switch.The V/I adjustment potentiometer are M6 shafts that protrudes ~5.5mm out. There is a ~10.5mm diameter cutout surrounding the shaft. So ~10mm diameter knob could slide into this cutout to cover more of the protruding potentiometer shaft. I will look around for some replacement knobs to see what I can find.Hopefully I should have some more time over the weekend to clean it up and test it out.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 12:15:23 am
content: My PAD psu fan is auto / speed controlled, i hear a "faint fan wind" very silent in my caseRemove the ovp limit, you'll need to set it to the max, you wont be able to push the psu to the max voltage ... as i see it ?

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 03:11:56 am
content: Quote from: coromonadalix on May 06, 2020, 12:15:23 amGood to hear the fan isn't too bad. I'll be crossing my fingers.I noticed the OVP sticker. I think it is just an adjustment screw on the front panel if I'm remember it correct. I opened it up to take a brief look. I haven't noticed any rust/corrosion issues, although has alot of accumulated dust. I want to clean it up before I go any further.I did order some knobs from digikey, if I'm lucky should have it up and running this weekend.Snapped a few quick dirty photos of the inside.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 11:54:23 am
content: Same topology as mine, but my mainboard is behind the front panel, have to move a few things (needle meters) to get it out .... a pseudo smps / buck phase controlled psu very packed / dense.Dusting it off will help, my fan was turning freely, no oil to add since my fan has bearings, i hope yours has them too, seems so.You'll love the current limit button, i'm checking a way to add (if i can) an buzzer when the current limit trip or the ovp trip, i dont always have my eyes on the display when i use it.Cleaned mine and put new case screws, they where allen key heads and oxydised, now phillips #2 heads, recalibrated the meters and the psu offsets to get perfect zero current and voltage outputs, i only have 4 trimpots on mine.I would have loved to put 4 1/2 digits meters in it, like my Kepco psu, no place left, they need isolated 5vdc suppliesKikusui was helpful to send me a service manual under a signed non disclosure agreement.I did a modification on mine, i put an iec ac socket instead of the terminal screws bar, fit perfectly.

author: fanOfeeDIY
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 01:15:45 pm
content: Many of the Kikusui and Kenwood/Texio DC programmable power supplies are used in Japanese assembly factories.The one you scored looks like it served at the assembly line for decades.Some of them could be used for making cassette player, audio equipment, or something.Still many of them are controlled with parallel interfaces... which I am not piratical fan of it.Many of the factories are going out of business, so it seems like many of them are escaping to second hand market.Japan main voltage is 100V 50Hz in East side of Japan, like Tokyo, and 100V 60Hz in West side of Japan, famous one are Osaka.The 100V 50Hz is the combination of lowest voltage and Hz among all the world, so typically requires larger caps and transformer to generate the same quality of output stage.I have a feeling your Kikusui are really heavy.They use very durable dual ball bearing fan which is not always quiet,thenthe NMB logo are made by Minebea, who are good at making ball bearings.Also the sticker on the top might worth keeping it on. I attached the zoomed up image.Direct translation is"Caution""Test Equipment is used in the facilities,Do not use for your stand alone work"It give you the information of how they were used.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 02:32:02 pm
content: Yep Not sure or maybe mine came from a factory ?There is a no periodic calibration needed sticker ? Decided to keep it just in case ?and yes they are heavy loll at least 26 Pound or kg ?My Kepco is 52 Pound or KgI bought the Kikusui 2 years ago at a mere 52$ usd (Ebay Usa), costed way more to get it loll

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 05:32:17 pm
content: Quote from: coromonadalix on May 06, 2020, 11:54:23 amCould hot glue to the inside chassis one of those non-grounded AC-DC USB wall warts to get 5V off of the mains input.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 05:44:30 pm
content: Quote from: fanOfeeDIY on May 06, 2020, 01:15:45 pmThanks for the insight. It is heavy, about: ~23kg/50lbs. I think I remember being on 100V / 60Hz power in southern Kanagawa prefecture when I last lived in Japan (if I'm remembering correctly).

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 06:11:59 pm
content: Can these power supplies be set/wired for 230VAC?

author: alm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 06:56:46 pm
content: I don't own one of these supplies, but I'd say yes. The manual lists operating voltage up to 240V (though mention that 250V is the absolute maximum), and according to the schematic the main transformer has double primary windings, and the auxiliary transformer and fan are wired in parallel to the 100V tap of the main transformer, acting like an autotransformer. Maybe JxR could confirm their supply matches the manual in this regard?I've seen it before were Kikusui equipment is perfectly suitable for 230VAC, except maybe a MOV at the input that needs to be replaced with a higher rated version. My electronic load had a 150V MOV, so that blew a fuse before I found the MOV.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 07:52:00 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on May 06, 2020, 06:11:59 pmThis document seems to show it is possible. It is hard for me to tell exactly where the 110V tap is until I can get it cleaned up. I'm going to have to solder some wires to connect VR101/VR102 since they didn't make the leads long enough to reach the 120V taps. I'll look around while I'm in there for the 110V A/B connections.Kikusui should also respond with a document showing the configuration if you send them an email.How to change the input voltage PAN (002).pdf(976.78 kB - downloaded 203 times.)I corresponded with them just to make sure I could set it up for 120V input before I purchased. I found the partial service manual online, Kikusui didn't provide it.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 09:04:01 pm
content: Just a pic of the replacement knobs I ordered. They fit pretty well.https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/kilo-international/OEJNI-50-2-7/226-4209-ND/5970365I also noticed someone removed the wire connections for the 10-turn pot that sets the voltage. The potentiometers tested fine with a meter, but one feels a a tad "gritty," while the other is a bit too loose and has jerky movement. Decided to just order some replacements.These appear to be an exact match:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nidec-copal-electronics/M-22E10-050-10K/563-2118-ND/1025507

author: eevcandies
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2020, 04:04:29 am
content: My first kikusui was a pad35-10, which was very heavy, a few months later got a pad35-20 which is a back-breaker!!I see YOUR fan & heatsink assembly is connected by a metal plate...my story...Maybe 10 years later I got a high-volt unit (PAD160-xx, 560W) from someone who had never shipped anything in their life...they put this massive supply in a thin box, like office paper comes in, with one sheet of the world's thinnest bubble wrap!! The delivery guy threw it down on the porch...the feet poked holes in the box & the massive transformer caused the heavy frame to bend slightly...ok, so what...well the entire massive heatsink assembly was suspended (insulated) by a plastic ring that attached to the fan (like your metal plate)....now this 1/4 inch thich plastic was shattered into bits when the HS slammed down....so transistors were detached from the fan & just flopping around. Luckily , I was able to 3D print an ABS replacement ring:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/kikusui-pad-power-supply-heatsinkbracket-(was)-broken)/?topicseen

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 10, 2020, 11:12:39 pm
content: Quote from: eevcandies on May 08, 2020, 04:04:29 amWell there was no shipping damage thankfully! It hasn't been completely smooth sailing either though. As it turns out, this unit: PAN35-20AS is a apparently "S" for special. Something a company must have requested and contracted Kikusui to build. The control board: A1512A has some modifications done to it.On the front of the board I circled components that didn't match the circuit diagram :- R94 - remove- R95 - remove- RV4 - replace with 2k trim pot (purchased)- C43 - replace with 1uF polarized capacitor (purchased)On the back of the board is a bit interesting. Apparently some of these bodges are normal...anyways:- R102 - should be removed- RV12 - 10 turn pot needs to be reconnected- Single bodge resistor should be removed.- Two traces have been cut and need to be restored.- After removing resistor R94, move green bodge wire to other side (or just create a short across R94 for the bodge)- Remove wire leads that run to rear circuit board: A1511A GATE BOARDThe current state of the instrument is that variable voltage and current settings work from the front panel now. I have tested it with a very small load (500mA) across all voltages. The Voltage can currently be set too high since RV4 is too low (R94 helps a bit with that). The fan is very loud, and directly connected to 100VAC, so there is not going to be any speed control. There is a strange hum that I haven't identified yet that bothers me. The hum only happens in CV mode, and can subtly change frequency depending on voltage setting. Still looking into it...See pics and description. This is all you need for repair. If you purchase one and have questions, just send me a message and I am happy to help.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2020, 02:22:43 am
content: Maybe the noise could be from the main xformer ? but i think this psu is like an smps in the power stage section ? some coil is oscillating a little ?Sad to see the main fan not speed controlled ?? i did not saw the scematics completlyMaybe add some thermally controlled scr / triac fan speed control, hack the potentiometer for an negative or positive thermistor on the heatsink.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 11, 2020, 04:36:12 am
content: Quote from: coromonadalix on May 11, 2020, 02:22:43 amTransformer seems like a likely candidate.I also broke one of the MOVs attached to the main transformer...or at least that is what I'm assuming they are calling VR101/VR102. The MOVs I have may be the wrong part as well. The diagram I linked above showing the transformer wiring has different MOV models numbers to correspond to the input swing.I think this is an acceptable match for the MOV I broke:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MOV-14D241K/MOV-14D241K-ND/2799114I'm going to set the repair aside for now until the new parts come in.

author: eevcandies
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 12:36:59 am
content: Just wondering---when the supply arrived, was it working? Why did you want to make the changes---what outputs could you get?There are a bunch of "modes", you can choose with the switches...wondering if some of these "parts specials" settings could be bypassed/inactivated by switching to other modes?

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 06:15:23 am
content: Quote from: eevcandies on May 12, 2020, 12:36:59 amAs shipped:- voltage control via front panel was disabled- the programmable voltage range was limited: I could adjust between: ~(1.4V to 10V)These changes would effect all CV modes unfortunately. For example the voltage control pot on the front panel (RV12) wasn't even wired to anything. Undoing the changes has been pretty straightforward. The changes stick out since they appear to all be done by hand.The hum I mentioned was present during initial testing. I did have to change the transformer input to 120V before I could try it out since I don't have a variac. So technically it was never tested at the default configuration of 100V input.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 10:49:26 am
content: I'm surprised to see how it was modified like this, to take such lenght ..... maybe in the end to avoid some miss use / temptation of it in the factory ... to whack a small screw driver in it to play with the trimpots ?Lucky you, service manual exists

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 03:46:14 pm
content: Quote from: coromonadalix on May 12, 2020, 10:49:26 amTrue. Although, I only considered this model because I already had the service manual. I typically don't purchase any used test equipment unless I have a service manual for that model, just easier that way.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 15, 2020, 10:21:25 pm
content: This item has been successfully repaired. I put a summary of the components needed and the cost to repair on my original post.Conclusion: It is a good deal for a 700W linear power supply. The cost and difficulty to repair is low. This is for the most part a completely analog design. There is no micro controllers or memory to be found in the unit. The displays are driven by two 3.5 digit volt meter chips that are designed to drive 4-digit 7seg LEDs (https://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/TC7107#additional-features).The fan is very loud and not temperature controlled. I may look into a replacement one day. There is a hum on the transformer when operating, which I believe is normal. I have load tested it up to my limit of 200W across the entire voltage range and I see no problems.I have attached a measurement of the output ripple under load, which appears to match the specs in the datasheet.I also updated pictures of post:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/kikusui-pan35-20a-700w-linear-dc-power-supply/msg3060660/#msg3060660To show you all the required changes.Just to be clear, the repair is restoring: A1512A Control Board, to the default configuration. Please check the link to the service manual if you there is anything unclear that I have failed to point out. You should be specifically interested in service manual pages: 5-7, 5-17, and 5-19.Please carefully check diagram 5.7. VR101/VR102 are the MOVs you should consider replacing with components that are appropriate for your line input.After repair and reassembly, completed pages 6-3 to 6-5 in the user manual (voltage adjustment). Factory calibration and current calibration were both unnecessary for me personally.

author: fanOfeeDIY
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 04:08:14 pm
content: Quote from: JxR on May 15, 2020, 10:21:25 pmThe fan looks to be the NMB 4715MS for 100V 50Hz model. Adding some cement resistor in series might help?You have a great scope. How did you measure the ripple? I would like to do it on my Kenwood/Trio PSU.Used regular 10x voltage probe for the ripple measurement?

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 16, 2020, 05:02:56 pm
content: Quote from: fanOfeeDIY on May 16, 2020, 04:08:14 pmThe measurement was done using an AC coupled differential low noise amplifier with 10x gain (LNA10). Although it is not ideal for this type of measurement due a low pass filter cutoff frequency of 1MHz (instead of 20MHz). Connections are through bnc with a banana adapters for the power supply's outputs. The output of the LNA10 is just connected to the scope. The scope's input is set to 0.1:1 to account for the 10x gain.

author: fanOfeeDIY
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 02:29:59 pm
content: Quote from: JxR on May 16, 2020, 05:02:56 pmThank you for the information. I did not know about the LNA10. A good preamplifier for the probe seems to have a good price.I was considering to make a hand made probe similar to the link bellow, to save my money.https://teledynelecroy.com/doc/build-your-own-power-rail-probe-appnoteI cannot exactly recall my memory, I think saw the similar probe mentioned on the eevblog video.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 18, 2020, 09:46:41 pm
content: Quote from: fanOfeeDIY on May 18, 2020, 02:29:59 pmMaybe this one (about 32mins in)?I have no doubt there are things I'm doing wrong in my probing technique as well (besides the 1MHz low pass filter).The first output ripple pic I showed above was with the outputs floating.This next pick is with the negative output tied to case ground (which is how the Kikusui performed the noise measurements).The last pick is with again with the output floating but with 50ohm terminations between the coax and the LNA.

author: duckduck
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2020, 12:36:27 am
content: Quote from: JxR on May 05, 2020, 10:50:29 pmHey JxR, is that a WHITE wire I see going into the LINE input? Might want to double-check that.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 22, 2020, 01:49:57 am
content: Quote from: duckduck on May 22, 2020, 12:36:27 amSorry, but I don't remember the color of which wire they used for L/N (and don't feel like taking the beast down from shelf to check). Although, it doesn't really matter since it was hooked up correctly internally in relation to the power cord.FYI: I was able to see behind the unit with a flash light, and the black wire is hooked to L, white to N...so standard setup. I did a continuity check on the cord and the connections before I ever plugged it in. No reason to trust the connections being correct just based on the color of the wires.

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2020, 03:12:35 am
content: Quite fortuitous that I stumble upon this forum and joined just to reply to this post to thank JxR for such an awesome writeup.I received my PAN35-20A from (almost certainly) the same eBay seller and looks like the same mod's are required. I ordered the parts you suggested and am reviewing the service manual now - Had a question though...my unit came with a 110V plug and the back of my unit has marking for 100V 50/60hz but has a yellow sticker over the voltage "205".I then went searching for the Varistor that you replaced, since I figured this would tell me (among other things) what voltage the unit was wired for. Not sure where to find it however.My BS is in mechanical engineering, so the fact that schematics are with symbols rather than little dealies that look like the actual component breaks my brain.I do a bit of electronics work as part of my day-job - just finished up repairing a dozen machines in my laboratory that were damaged after a deluge of rain-water left me knee deep in water wondering if any of the 480 was still live (shudder). Planning on using this power supply for random tinkering at home...most immediately some electroplating!fun timesthanks again for the post!

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 23, 2020, 03:31:09 am
content: Quote from: SloMetalDoc on May 23, 2020, 03:12:35 amThe varistors are attached to the main transformer covered in white silicon adhesive. They are right below the screw terminals where you need to rewire for 120V. They have little ring terminal solder tabs that are screwed into the transformer taps. Anyways just pull them off the transformer after you unscrew them. Keep the solder tabs to reuse. Good luck on your repair!

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2020, 11:16:49 pm
content: Awesome, my Digikey came in today, so I just got started with the mods.One question, the trim pot you replaced... mine has a 520ohm resistor soldered between 2 pins, did you reinstall this resistor?

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2020, 11:24:08 pm
content: Welp... nevermind. RTFM. You already have it marked for removal.

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2020, 11:56:58 pm
content: You stated you replace C34 - but have an arrow pointed at where C43 would go (its empty, but has the green wire fed through from the back side.So, Did you man replace C34? Or install the 1uF cap at position C43?

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 12:06:03 am
content: Quote from: SloMetalDoc on May 23, 2020, 11:56:58 pmOpps, sorry about that. Where I circled is correct, and is what I should have said was C43. Positive polarity attached to the bodge.

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 03:16:51 am
content: Awesome, I got all that sorted! That said, I cautiously turned the unit on after rewiring the transformer and let the smoke out from one of the varistors in short order. I should mention that as-wired originally, it appeared to be for 90-110V - and I did power the unit for a short period of time and did power on.The old varistors appear to be 130VAC Max.Well... I typed all this up...and checked the varistor PN I ordered, MOV-14D121K-ND - which appears to be 75VAC max. Hmm....might install the old ones to see if I did any more damage.Fun Times.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 03:27:10 am
content: Quote from: SloMetalDoc on May 24, 2020, 03:16:51 amRight, the old MOVs were meant for Japanese 100V power. The part I linked in the first post has max VAC of: 150V and max varistor voltage of 264V. If you order that part the MOV should be fine on 120V.Quote from: JxR on May 04, 2020, 10:24:39 pmPlease carefully look over page '5-7' on service manual and double check everything once you have the new MOVs. You need to move the shorting bar from 100V A/B to 120V A/B. Then move the load wire(L) to 120V B. The new MOVs should be between 0VA-120VA and 0VB-120VB.I think I already linked this document, but just in case this is what Kikusui sent me regarding the mains transformer(linked). I think the service manual diagram is less confusing, but incase it helps...

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 03:38:10 am
content: Yep, I was following that page (thanks again for posting the manual!). I moved the shorting bar from 100VA/B to 120V A/B.Question - since 120V A/B are shorted with the bar, does it actually matter if the Load wire is connected to 120 VB?Thanks again!

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 03:45:21 am
content: Quote from: SloMetalDoc on May 24, 2020, 03:38:10 amI don't see why it would matter personally due to the shorting bar. It is just easier to say "follow the schematics" so there is no confusion.

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 04:42:30 am
content: I'm good with that logic.I reinstalled the original varistors (PN Z10D201 - 130V) and replaced the fuse - I now have what appears to be a functional power supply! I probably should scare up a dummy load and test it. Or maybe just try some electroplating and see how it goes.I'm actually surprised nobody has bought that guy on eBay out and repaired them all. Not terribly difficult - its way nicer than what I need...but what the hell.Thanks again!!!

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 04:54:41 am
content: Quote from: SloMetalDoc on May 24, 2020, 04:42:30 amNice, glad you got it working! I broke the legs off one of the original MOVs so I never got to use them. I already had another Digi-Key order in progress, so it wasn't a big deal to just add $0.40 in parts. The ones I linked were pretty much the exact spec of the discontinued part on the schematic for 120V. The original MOVs are 'probably fine' if your line voltage is nice and clean, but you are running them closer to their spec'd maximums.

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 07:43:10 pm
content: Yep, going to get replacements on order today.Fired the unit up today to check basic functionality and calibration and got some interesting operation. Unit turned on for ~5 minutes and Current limit is set to 0.2-0.3A. Fluke 287DMM connected to front terminals (Shorting bar and Pos).Running voltage up in 1-2V increments - no problem till I hit ~15V, when the voltage starts dropping - with the CC Light Flickering to CV. I think this indicates there may be a short somewhere internal to the power supply. Any thoughts appreciated!

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 09:23:57 pm
content: Quote from: SloMetalDoc on May 24, 2020, 07:43:10 pmUnfortunately I cannot reproduce any such behavior on my own power supply. With current limited to 0.1A (and even a bit lower where the limit cannot be displayed) I can go from 0-35V and the measured current stays at 0.0 on the display the entire time. Even with the current limit just barely nudged to the right from the 0 position, the most I can get is a couple quick flashes of the CC mode LED through the entire voltage range.It sounds like there is some kind of leakage current somewhere along the output path. Can you actually see the measured current rise on the display as you increase the voltage?

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 09:42:23 pm
content: No, I think as soon as it detects over .1A, it switches into CC Mode and drops the voltage.I just flipped the unit on to check that, and I was able to get all the way up to 32V, then after a second or two, the voltage started fluctuating. I'm going to try leaving it on for a little bit, then checking again - Wonder if something is heating up and developing a short...or some of that dusty floof in there is shorting the output.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 10:18:16 pm
content: Quote from: SloMetalDoc on May 24, 2020, 09:42:23 pmI know I spent about 1.5 cans of compressed air (and some iso) cleaning it out, the thing was filthy (although all my boards looked fine after cleanup). It is hard to say how hard the power supplies were driven in their original location. Although based on how dirty they were, they have probably seen quite a bit of use in what was probably a hot and dirty factory type location.I would certainly clean the unit up if you haven't and look at all the electrolytic caps for any signs of leakage. With as dirty as mine was it was very hard to tell if any of the caps were damaged/leaking. Personally I would start there. Clean it up, inspect the caps for signs of bulging/leaking. Make sure there isn't any corrosion on the board, check all the diodes with your DMM, etc.PS - While I think it would be unlikely the problem is on the control board, feel free to post some picks if you want me to take a glance at it.Also, it is a completely analog power supply. There is no firmware you have to worry about, so what ever is wrong is likely fixable. But, the unit also has a 30 day return according to the seller. So...that is something you might want to consider before you spend more money on repairs. I would feel a bit odd trying to return something I modified, but then again it wouldn't be that hard to put it back into the same state you received it in.*Pages 5-5 and 5-6 also have some test points to measure in the service manual.

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 11:18:18 pm
content: Going to stat a bit of cleaning now...I did throw a DMM on the output (Power Supply Off) and am measuring about 80 ohm across positive to negative. Assuming that is real, that might explain why i'm seeing the current exceed .1A around 10-15V (roughly speaking).Thanks again for reminding me about the 30-day, and all the help here, seriously awesome!

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 11:24:38 pm
content: Quote from: SloMetalDoc on May 24, 2020, 11:18:18 pmI read ~80.6ohms across the terminals.

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 11:28:34 pm
content: Oh sweet, thanks for checking that out. Must be something more entertaining.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 11:36:33 pm
content: Quote from: SloMetalDoc on May 24, 2020, 11:28:34 pmJust to verify, is S1-S5 in the down position and remote sense is turned off? I don't really think that is your problem, but just wanted to make sure.

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 12:00:59 am
content: Correct, all switchies in the down position, and the sense button on the back is OUT (OFF).I was just about to write in saying that blowing the unit out seemed to help as it was sitting happily at 18V, stable...but then it dropped its way down to ~3V, and i turned the voltage knob all the way down. Running it back up slowly, it started to cutoff at a lower voltage.I moved the current setting up to 0.2A - just to see if there was any change and noticed that when it starts switching over to CC mode and dropping the voltage, the ammeter is still showing 0A. I'm guessing this is not a real load, and its something on the control board.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 12:27:28 am
content: Quote from: SloMetalDoc on May 25, 2020, 12:00:59 amHmm. Well there is nothing that was touched on the CC side of the control board, just the CV loop. Have you tried putting a restrictive load on it? Something small like 1V and 5ohm to see if you get a current reading of 0.2A.If it is convenient, post a picture of your control board.

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 01:17:28 am
content: I went ahead and metered according to the manual and saw that the Reference voltage was out of spec. Supposed to be 10.500 +/- 2.5mV and was slightly low. I corrected this to 10.500 and found that when i turned the unit on, it immediately displayed CC (with the current knob zero'd). A slight turn on the Current knob put it back in CV Mode and got voltage up to 31.5V (highest so far) and sat there for a couple minutes before it started dropping voltage and flickering the cc light.I also probed from TP1 to TP3 (CV Error) and saw it sit around 0.6V until it started dropping into CC mode. TP1 to TP4 (CC Error) sat at 14V until it started dropping out - it looked like it was dropping to 0...I'll pull the board and take some photos tonight or tomorrow morning. I'm curious if my repairs of the traces wasnt successful? I should have probably put a jumper over the terminals on either end rather than trying to bridge the trace.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 01:31:11 am
content: Quote from: SloMetalDoc on May 25, 2020, 01:17:28 amDid you mean TP2(common) to TP3 and TP2 to TP4? I think you only use TP1 to test the reference voltage (TP1 to TP2).Quote from: SloMetalDoc on May 25, 2020, 01:17:28 amSorry, but forgot to take a picture of my final repaired board. I have the guts of another power supply in repair all over my workbench while it waits for parts, so no room to take apart the Kikusui atm. I ran bodges for the traces though, and put some dots where the bodge wires connect. The bodge with the pink dots connects to the same location as that green bodge wire.

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 03:48:19 am
content: EDIT: Yes I checked reference via the correct pin's...also the CC/CV error to common.No worries,I took my board out a couple times and added jumpers to those traces. I've noticed something when I turn the unit on, voltage is stable as a rock up to max - again zero current (increasing the current does not affect this issue). Roughly 5 minutes after its turned on is when the voltage issues start, and continue to degrade, flickering to CC Mode.Huh...this is interesting...I've been sitting here for about 15 minutes typing this and futzing with the voltage knob - and for the last 10 minutes or so, the voltage has been dead-nuts. Currently sitting at 33.972V +/- 0 on the fluke... In reading both the User and Service manuals they did state that the unit should be powered on for 30-minutes to stabilize -did I just learn that they were actually serious about that?Update, after another 5 minutes, my DMM has dropped... 1mV....oh no wait, its back at 33.972...I have a 1Ohm - 500W load resistor on its way to do some load-testing...but after another couple minutes...its still sitting nicely at 33.972...

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 04:12:11 am
content: Quote from: SloMetalDoc on May 25, 2020, 03:48:19 amInstruments having a warm up time to reach their stated accuracy/stability is pretty common. I don't think they mean the instability you are experiencing. Maybe some reconditioning is occurring on the electrolytics? I would be hesitant to make any judgement until it is load tested.

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 04:23:50 am
content: Quote from: JxR on May 25, 2020, 04:12:11 amI think your right all around... Plus the varistor exploding probably scared the hell out of the mosfets...i'll wake them up in the morning and see if they're ready to throw some nickel out of green liquid. I only need 2Volts, but lots of amps, so well see!

author: SloMetalDoc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 06:13:49 pm
content: Warmed the unit up for 30-60 minutes this morning with output off - and have had the unit with no load in CV mode @ 35V for 30 minutes... rock solid. So far so good!

author: Squoip
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2020, 12:11:03 am
content: I know this thread is a couple of months old but I just bought two of these from eBay, probably from the same vendor. I expect the power supplies and repair parts to all arrive on Friday. Should be a quick, easy repair thanks to the efforts of JxR. The plan is to open them up, blow out with compressed air, perform the mod reversal as documented and see what I have.I used to work as a test technician for a custom power supply manufacturer and our bench supplies were almost exclusively Kikusuis. They are very stable and accurate so I'm pretty thrilled to have a couple of them.Again, thanks JxR!

author: eevcandies
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2020, 07:27:44 am
content: I got one of those pan35-20 units...pretty happy, though I have somany supply, I could power a city.You mightalsobe interested in thequad outputKikusuiPMP16-1QU...a bunch were sold for less than $100 (plus about $70 shipping, though sometimes shipping was also $17.59)Look on the bay for COMPLETED ...you will see a batch of recent sales for about $90 (plus $71 ship) ...note the little leds are all select buttons!https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kikusui-PMP16-1QU-4-Channel-06V-0-16V-016V-025V-Regulated-DC-Power-Supply/264734012142?epid=15025745400&hash=item3da36072ee:g:-n8AAOSwk2tcpoxWI also have one of these very nice (VERY HEAVY) Topward triple units...notice this seller is offeringBEST OFFER ....and FREE SHIPPING...they must be nutshttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Topward-6303D-Dual-Tracking-Triple-Output-DC-Power-Supply-Fair-Condition/153960322243?hash=item23d8c014c3:g:kY8AAOSwsnpe2YRL:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!45242!US!-1

author: Squoip
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2020, 11:14:22 pm
content: Anyone know what the extra PCB, resistor and transistor are for? I was going to reverse the mod on the Gate PCB where the two white wires went and noticed an undocumented wire is soldered to TP501. The transistor emitter and collector are connected across the output so it's almost certainly a crowbar. The resistor is 80 ohms and is also connected directly across the output so that explains why SloMetalDoc measured that with the supply turned off. I can follow the wires and come up with a schematic if it doesn't already exist. I suspect it can be removed but first I want to make sure it's not necessary. Edit: I came to the conclusion that since the circuit is a modification that was done for a specific application, it's not necessary and I removed it. I also installed a jumper across a cut trace on the gating PCB so now everything should match the schematic. Attached is the schematic for the circuit.

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 09, 2020, 11:43:20 pm
content: Quote from: Squoip on July 07, 2020, 12:11:03 amNo worries and good luck on your repair!Quote from: Squoip on July 08, 2020, 11:14:22 pmAre you talking about the long white wires going from the control and gates boards? I just removed the connection since it wasn't in the schematics.

author: Squoip
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2020, 04:30:40 am
content: I removed the two white wires that went from the control PCB to the Gating PCB. There is an 80 ohm 30W resistor, a big transistor and a small circuit board that aren't in the schematics. The added circuit connects to: + output, output return, and the -15V TP on the gating PCB. I traced it out and documented the circuit in an edit to one of my previous posts. The 80 ohm resistor is in parallel with the power transistor and they connect to + output and output return through .5 ohms. I went ahead and removed that stuff after coming to the conclusion that since it's part of the customization, it's not necessary.

author: rvalente
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2020, 12:55:08 am
content: Quote from: JxR on May 04, 2020, 10:24:39 pmWilly you happen to have the service manual for the PAK / PAK-A series?

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 22, 2020, 06:34:10 am
content: Quote from: rvalente on October 21, 2020, 12:55:08 amNot sure who this Willy guy is, but I don't have anything on the PAK. I had to pay some random on ebay to get the PAN service manual. Which I then promptly posted here for anyone that wanted it. It wouldn't really surprise me if they are nearly the same with just an updated case, but who knows.Found this:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Service-manual-with-schematics-for-Kikusui-PAK-A-AM-series-350W/283936673529?hash=item421bf1cef9:g:NpoAAOxyNW9SLIIQSame guy I got the PAN service manual from. If your willing to pay for it, please consider scanning it and sharing. Maybe it will help someone out.

author: rvalente
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2020, 10:00:58 pm
content: Yehp, just found the same one yesterday looks to be only option available.

author: uski
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2020, 08:47:41 am
content: Someone in this thread specified that they were able to obtain the service manual directly from the manufacturer after signing a NDA.It might be worth simply asking them instead of paying someone who most likely is violating copyright for profit

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 23, 2020, 09:39:42 am
content: Quote from: uski on October 23, 2020, 08:47:41 amDoesn't hurt to try, and I certainly did. They were absolutely unwilling to do so when I contacted both Kikusui America as well as Kikusui Japan. I'm certainly loosing no sleep over helping others fix a discontinued power-supply, by freely providing Kikusui's service manual for the PAN.

author: uski
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2020, 09:47:37 am
content: Quote from: JxR on October 23, 2020, 09:39:42 amI'm not blaming you. I'm blaming the ones reselling the PDFs on eBay for profit

author: rvalente
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2020, 12:34:03 pm
content: Quote from: uski on October 23, 2020, 08:47:41 amI've tried reaching kikusui and asking for literature with a NDA, they've always replied with standard emails "this is no longer manufactured and we have no manuals of it" yeah, sure...I'm trying to reach some friends or services companies, I'm sure I'll get there, but takes time and some fatigue

author: AllenB
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2021, 04:42:42 am
content: This thread is absolute gold! I bought one of these units from the same seller back in September 2019. Didn't find anything useful at the time, and also failed to find the service manual that JxR has since provided.I managed to undo the relevant bodging on the 1512A "control board", along with a couple of details on the 1511A "gate board". Unfortunately at the very same time that I found the last cut trace on my 1512A board (I'd missed at least one, and things didn't work) I managed to hit the gate board with some bit of metal and cause serious damage. Tried tracing down the faults but after fixing the first few, still no joy. By then I'd verified my 1512A board by swapping it into a different (but similar) Kikusui model. Very frustrating!I'd given up at the time b/c of other time commitments and other working PSUs, but recently got to thinking about it again and found this thread.Oh, and thanks for the comments about the 80 ohm resistor, extra transistor, and associated other bits. I was 90% sure they were part of the customization, but without a schematic, some of it looks so official...Anyway, thanks!

author: AllenB
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2021, 03:43:27 pm
content: Wanted to mention a few things now that I've gotten familiar with this device again:1. There are two cut traces on the "gate board", at least on my unit. I'd patched them initially but now armed with the schematics, it looks like they don't matter except to properly support two of the external connections at the back. Nonetheless, it's worth being aware of if you want to restore 100% functionality:a. P501 pin 2b. P502 pin 2Turns out that the pair of wires which had been run from the control board to the gate board are connected to the proper places to "restore" these connections, so I soldered them to the appropriate pins above. I haven't learned the skill to reconnect the traces directly, though it seems there must be a way to expose the bare copper traces and then bridge with solder.2. I combined the service manual pages into a PDF and rotated many of the pages. In case someone finds this thread in the future, I've posted it athttp://gtf.org/allen/docs/Kikusui%20PAN-A%20Series%20700W%20Service%20Manual.pdfOn that note, all of my voltage test-points check out but the PSU flips into CC mode instantly when output is enabled. Time to start reading the schematic and learn something. Most of my limited experience is in the digital realm, so this will be painful but fun.Allen

author: AllenB
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2021, 07:15:21 pm
content: One last update -- the PSU is working now. The remaining problem with the gate board turned out to be U502, an op amp that's involved in generating the gate signal for the set of MOSFETs between the main transformer and the regulator transistors. U502B (pins 5,6,7) had failed. It was being fed the expected waveform at the inverted input, but the output remained flat.The part is an NEC (now Renesas) uPC842C. Nobody reputable had them in stock, so I've ordered a few on eBay. Since that's going to take weeks, I figured what the hell and looked for a substitute. Sure enough, it shares a pinout with good old LM358. Since it's not doing high-precision work here but rather swinging the output from one rail to the other, it seemed worth a try. And sure enough, that did the trick.I'll probably still install the correct part when it arrives but for now, victory.Learned a lot about analog circuitry (transistors, op amps) by carefully studying the schematics, reading, and probing around. Now all I need is something else to fix!Cheers,Allen

author: Askil
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 10, 2021, 11:27:27 am
content: Hello, maybe somebody knows ;)I bought used PAN35-20AS 100V 50/60Hz , and when trying make settings for output Limit Voltage from front panel , can only from 28.3-37.3V. For Current limit settings all ok, from 0-20A . Preset OVP works fine too.After checked Test Point get this result.100V 50/60HzA1512A Control Board*1 short-curcuit*2 10.5V*3 15.2V*4 4.1VA1511A Gate Board*1 15.2V*2 -0.001V*3 18V*4 -12 2VAnd then i disconnected flat cable from P502-P2 at once get -15V at *2 Gate Board.

author: zimpah
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 15, 2022, 02:42:29 am
content: Hi everyone,I just picked up a similar PAN35-10AS on ebay and have been using this post as a reference for getting my PS up and running. Seems it had essentially the identical modifications made to the PCB's, etc...I'm having trouble with the input voltage setup. The unit I bought, like others, is set for 100V and I need to switch the wiring so it will safely run on 110/120v. Unfortunately, the PDF that's included in this post isn't all that helpful. It shows wires connecting to "S101B", "S101 LOAD", "SUB Transfer", and "To Fan". Can anyone help me get this wired correctly? I don't know what the S101 is. I'm guessing it means switch. SUB transfer i'm guessing is the smaller transformer on the side. And then the diagram shows that two lines connect to the fan. But the fan on my setup only has 1 wire to move around. The hot wire to the fan is screwed to the 70VA leg on the underside of the large transformer. Only the white wire to the fan is free to move.Then there's the large black capacitor mounted up front to the case that has two black wires running to the main transformer. I don't have any idea where these wires go, and it doesn't seem to be mentioned in the diagram that has been referenced in this post. My guess is that it's supposed to be connected to the main hot and neutral of the transformer to act as a filter for the main power. But really, I have no idea.Finally, my transformer doesn't match the diagram referenced in this post. It's close, but VA and VB seem to be swapped on the main screw terminals.Anyways, I'll attach pictures if anyone can spare a few minutes to help. I've already finished all the other repair work needed to get this PSU running. I just need to get the input voltage squared away and I'll be in good shape (I think).Thank you!EZ

author: HalFoster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2022, 12:58:53 pm
content: I have several of the PAD series and I use them on the bench often. While the manuals for all of Kikusui's equipment can be hit or miss to find, I have always been able to ask Kikusui and they provided them freely as long as you sign a NDA agreeing to use them for personnel use only (can't distribute them elsewhere.) Very nice people to work with.Hal

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2022, 02:21:10 pm
content: Same here, received help from them under an NDA too

author: zimpah
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 16, 2022, 05:50:43 pm
content: I'm going to call them now.I've gotten a bit closer to figuring everything out. The figure refers to S101 load and S101 B, which is referring to the main switch. I'm guessing that S101 load means the black wire from the switch, and S101 B means the neutral white wire from the switch. The "sub transfer" definitely seems to be referring to the secondary transformer.The only questions I have left are:1. the diagram shows something called "B101" with a symbol that looks like an infinity sign inside a circle. See the attachment below. I can't figure out what that symbol means or is referring to.2. the black wire coming from the front main switch "S101" is currently connected to the main transformer on the bottom at a position labeled "D" Then it seems to come out of the transformer on the other side of the bottom at a position marked "C" and needs to be connected to the transformer somewhere up top on either 120V, 0V, or 100V. Why is the black wire connected to "D"? What are connection points "D" and "C"?3. the fan is supposed to be connected to 0V and 100V per the diagram. But the black wire from the fan is hard-soldered to the transformer at a point labeled "70V". The white wire is not connected yet. Am I supposed to remove the black wire from the 70V connection, unsolder it, and attach it to the 100V connection? It's the only wire thats soldered to the transformer. It doesn't appear to be something that's supposed to be moved around.4. and lastly, the real problem is that the diagram provided by Kikusui and the circuit diagram in the service manual contradict each other as far as I can tell. I'm not an engineer, but from my reading of both, they both suggest wires going to different connection points.ugh.... Anybody have any insight into any of the above?EZ

author: JxR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 16, 2022, 07:05:46 pm
content: @zimpahI know you sent me a DM which I will answer here for you: These documents and diagrams are not applicable to your particular power supply unfortunately, although that doesn't necessarily mean that there are not common parts/boards between them. The main transformer is completely different though. The units in the documents are all 700W and I have not seen the schematics for the 350W units, so I can't really provide much useful advice for your unit.I would echo what everyone else is saying, contact Kikusui. They provided those particular pictures you were asking about. Although, you might be on your own for locating the correct service manual, since Kikusui refused to provide that to me. Please see the attached picture below where I labeled which part of the circuits you asked about.

author: zimpah
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 16, 2022, 11:15:22 pm
content: Thanks JxR! I appreciate your help.I just finished hooking everything up. I spoke with Nathan at Kikusui, who provided the owners manual and service manual. With that schematic, the input voltage setup became clear. Hopefully it works. I haven't been brave enough to try turning it on yet.As far as the other repairs are concerned, the front board had all the exact same modifications and cut traces. So I just copied the suggested repairs. My gate board, however, also had cut traces that I had to repair. Hopefully that's all that needs fixing. I'll add some pictures and results when I work up the nerve to try plugging it in.Again, thank you to everyone who replied.EZ