station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: GEuser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2012, 03:20:14 pm
content: Q

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2012, 03:50:46 pm
content: Lucky you, YiHUA seems to make a little better quality stuff than the rest but the design failure is a bit appallingI had a 858D ( it's in pieces now ) that blew it's triac by overheating (3.33amps!) with a too small heatsink probably about 30C/W in a town with 34C amb. average and 82% avg humidityDisaster recipe, it works well in china but not hereThe real reason it's in bits now is that the previous the 858D fired up without a mica insulator went without glitches but after replacing one with a mica insulator (from YiHUA themselves!) it stopped working ... checked resistance and everything it just sits there flashing at 1Hz like a idiotI can find Atten AT8586's at 44SGDI could have better used that 35SGD i spent on that crap ...So this is the real reason why OHLJ cannot really improve or make decent products, their tools from YiHUA are not cheap and they break down all the time, Atten's the next betOH speaking about desoldering stations, there's a reason only Aoyue and CT (god knows who's that but their stuff looks pretty highend as well as the price even in china) makes them, they can offer high quality even at the same price (Well just not with CT)Feast your eyes on these:http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.10.15&id=5128347983This is the first time i've seen cheap hot air rework PENS outside of xytronic (IIRC, isn't cheap)

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2012, 06:29:57 am
content: I thought anodized are supposed to be better for heat transfer? The most important thing was that yihua lacked any sort of thermal paste on the heatsinks themselves and had a too small heatsink in a too small space, so the next bigger size heatsink i had was making it lie on the 0.1uF X2 snubber capPS: Use google translate, although i only wanted to show the pictures, i don't know chinese either

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2012, 05:40:40 pm
content: The ones i found on mine were supposed to be BT151 but it got replaced by a BTA16At least they do over-rating

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2012, 10:05:42 am
content: Quote from: GEuser on September 09, 2012, 07:51:36 amWelcome to yihua's epic flops!Decent quality board but a shitload of flops!

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2012, 04:16:26 pm
content: While reading your post, a fuse popped so loud and hard i could feel it 60cm away ...Turns out to be my solder feed machinethat fuse went so hard the wires totally disintegratedAnyway, so the other day i fired up the 858D for a final test and it tripped the mains. I've had it with YiHUA

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2012, 05:19:53 am
content: Snubber cap shorted out ... crappy capsIn my case it is a dual supply transformer, 30V and 10V no center tap

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2012, 09:43:41 am
content: Err ... the sleeve? some sort of teflon? I guess?The same stuff you find in a iron cord

author: ajasmin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 17, 2013, 01:06:38 am
content: I noticed a problem with my 853D. Even though the power supply is switched off from the front panel, there's voltage applied to the power supply binding posts for a brief moment when I switch the unit on or off using the switch on the back.Something to watch for.

author: ajasmin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 18, 2013, 06:38:49 am
content: Quote from: GEuser on January 17, 2013, 03:23:47 amI just checked and... Yes the fuse is connected to the neutral lead.

author: ajasmin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 19, 2013, 05:34:39 am
content: Quote from: GEuser on January 18, 2013, 07:10:01 amIt turns out that when I checked how the fuse was wired, I did a continuity check through the power cord as I'm not sure where the neutral and hot contacts are supposed to be on the C14 connector.And it's really the power cord that's wired wrong. Just like yours. I compared it to a bunch of other cables and it's different.Continuity test on normal AC power cords:Continuity test on the YiHUA cord:What are the chances of that happening? And wasn't yours an Australian power cord?

author: Harvs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2013, 06:30:07 am
content: I saw a recall notice this week on the notice board at work for incorrectly wired IEC power cords, same problem. Don't remember what the brand was, but probably all came from the same factory...

author: charlieb000
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 03:38:33 am
content: For the person wanting to know about replacement heating elements, ebay: A1321 (next time, please keep the sheet that comes with the replacement heater!)As for the 150ohm resistor on the power supply, its supposed to be an "active resistor" to reduce power supply noise. I dont like it either but left it there (these things are in my old oscilloscope also). they also help when the device on the power supply tries to put power back into the supply.-------Now, I have my own little review, and after this much I am still happy with it. i guess if it quits on me and i cant fix it then i wont be happy, but i will probably continue trying to fix it - probably with new guts.====Here is a list of improvements i had to do to my 853D+.Required tools:another soldering iron.dremel or the like (otherwise, a saw and chisel/screwdriver)callipers (optional)axial resistor for LED (220 ohm i think)Drill and one bit (10mm or whatever)spare thick and thin wire.First impressions:I noticed the soldering iron was not made quite right. But i could not determine the fix i needed to do.I did take a peek inside and i did notice how underutilised the earth connection was.The power supply would beep if i applied power to anything connected to earth.==It was not until after the soldering iron heating element did snap did i try to solve this, the ultimate solution was to shorten the metal collar that the tip rests against (around the heating element) so the sleeve that holds down the tip sits firmly on the threaded section that the nut screws onto. (i also extended the channel inside the tips with a drill bit, but that was a previous attempt at repair and i cant remember enough to say if it is necessary.) But do this first: the other tips may need some cutting so they extend the same length inside the sleeve (perhaps use calipers here, sticking the back end down the sleeve with the tip inside to determine the required trimming, and trim to the shortest one - i didn't do that, and mines not correct but will do)recently,the meter reading began to jump around and the RF meter would flash. I decided that it was time to go fix all the problems i noticed inside.First i grounded the negatives of the rework, soldering and power supply. the reason why the thing beeped when i connected the power supply to ground was because the insulator under one of the transistors was breached by a burr from one of the holes. I used a drill to remove all the burrs and replaced the TO-3's. Good. For good measure i connected dedicated wires to each one and bypassed the header. couldn't get rid of the 0.1ohm resistor as my new wiring didnt total that. (they have the resistors there because not all transistors are made the same. i should measure to see how equal the current gets distributed. Although 0.1ohm was also recommended by the guy that told me about it, it should work as well with less. At 3 amps, the voltage will drop 0.15V and they will consume 0.45W together)Next, i didnt like how high voltage was so close to my grounded low voltage. i cut the tracks surrounding the HV area and connected these to earth and used wires to replace the tracks I cut. I also removed the tracks around one of the optoisolators for better isolation and used the resistor here. i could have completely removed these tracks that i have made earths for a nice dielectric gap (as seen on SMPS power supplies) but didnt want lead shavings (i would probably say i dont know enough to determine how much safer it is with the gap). Because the mains goes into the heater with the other wires that go into low voltage areas of the circuit, i couldnt think of any solution other than weaving the earth wire among these before it goes to the chassis.All done! so i thought.When i reassembled, the heater fan would stay on. then it went off but at the same time the meter began jumping around again. So there was lots of thought and wasted time over this co-incidence.after trial and fail over these two problems, i got the pen and paper out and traced the fan circuit. seemed to be Q1. but there was nothing that could cause that to blow, oh well replace it. well it turned out that the vibration loosened it as it was not soldered properly.That did leave the meter's intermittant fault. I had found during the fan episode that when the meter figures began jumping, U3 (s3e9454bzz, but for the datasheet search for: samsung 9454) would become HOT. The 5V regulator output would drop to 4.8V. When it was quiet again, I loaded the 5V heavily myself, the meter would jump but U3 would not heat. I considered making a special cable for U3 to measure the pin current but not having the parts i was trying to reseat the IC without different pins to remove the trigger. gave up on that. i then decided to measure the current on Vss and Vdd and routed dedicated wires from the unseated legs to the regulator and to the now useful ground. it behaved itself. i gave up on waiting for it to malfunction and soldered permanent connections to the regulator. Its been behaving itself for some days now with no repeat, so i guess i can say i accidentally fixed it.the soldering iron funciton remains untested because its been misplaced at this moment, but with what i can test, there doesnt seem to be any incompatibility with my earthing fix.i have passed on a summary of this to Yihua, who knows if they will acknowledge it.Charlie.

author: charlieb000
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 08:45:02 am
content: howd you set it right? just curious... i see only one adjustment but i dont think its for temps...Quote from: GEuser on September 05, 2012, 03:20:14 pm

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 10:41:10 am
content: Quote from: charlieb000 on March 31, 2013, 03:38:33 amAnyone else find it odd that a Chinese manufacturer would use an obscure Korean MCU in their product? Maybe they got a particularly good deal on them...

author: charlieb000
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2013, 03:49:03 am
content: Attached is the sheet I got with the element, kept it for the record to replace the spare (never got around to that), it says No.A1321. Now the iron is fixed, it should only take something harsh to break it, like a drop onto concrete from maybe a metre while you are carrying it (it was not hot), like i accidentally did with someone elses... I cant confirm if the rework heater is the same as yours, as there is no model number on the heater. If there are some descrepencies with the new iron heater, im sure you can easily adjust it using that temperature sensor pot. I could tell you how to make a digital thermometer if you like. The plain silicon rectifier diode has a forward voltage that responds linearly with temperature. I made a circuit with a 200mV meter (or multimeter) to display it. Icalibrated it between the known room temp and boiling using formulas i put into a spreadsheet. it was Celcius but if you want farenheit thats doable to but your range will be significantly different (meter: +/- 200.0).Also attached is the translation for the sticker on top of the 853D+ about the RF meter. unfortunately they had no idea why the message was counterintuitive, the transmitter being LESS powerfull when held further away with the meter reporting full input. "nexus" means "link" and probably means "the signal" in this case.Lots of people buy samsung, it seems to not bother them. Corperations dont know ethics.By the way, i did ask for the circuit diagram, but they declined, "because that is our company proprietary".Quote from: GEuser on March 31, 2013, 12:34:44 pm

author: amspire
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2013, 04:26:30 am
content: Quote from: GEuser on September 13, 2012, 03:40:36 amThey are not the ones you want. The photos look like Hakko A1321 clones and they have some kind of temperature sensitive resistor deposited at the bottom of the ceramic tube on the inner surface.The ones you probably want have thermocouples instead. You can tell - measure the resistance between the two wires in the handle PCB furthest from the tip. If it is zero ohms, then you have a thermocouple version.The replacements for my 952D plus rework station are the Kada A1322. They are probably meant to be a clone for the Hakko A1322, but I found the clone element seems to work well in the non-hakko station. Just do an ebay search for Kada A1322. These elements are mechanically the same as your YiHUA elements. Cost something like $5 each.Check your iron - do the first two wires from the tip have a resistance about 14 ohms, and the second two under 1 ohms? If so, the Kada A1322 will probably work.I would also order some Hakko tips to replace whatever rubbish came with the iron.

author: amspire
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2013, 05:05:15 am
content: This shows the internals of the A1322 clone element. Very different from the A1321 element which I gather has the heater element and sensor deposited on the ceramic. This one uses wires.It actually still works! I used it for a couple of months like this until I got a replacement. The remainder of the element bit is frozen into the tip.

author: charlieb000
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2013, 05:40:47 am
content: To try to answer the first question,that will probably be fixed by grounding it properly. But i dont know how that could have crashed the chips. the iron tip would have been grounded, and if your power supply has the same problem that mine did, that would draw max amps (im not sure if yours beeps like mine did if you draw too much current. having the switch off at the front does not cut the power). if there was a surge from the current detector maybe that caused it. if your chips are sharing a transformer secondary with the PSU then maybe there was probably a problem from that.i needed to have U3 plugged in for anything to come on the displays (but maybe it tells those other chips what to show).Attached is what mine looks like inside now, although most of the work is under the board. the blue line is where the grounded tracks are.Quote from: GEuser on September 05, 2012, 03:20:14 pm

author: subratri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2014, 12:04:16 pm
content: Hi!I just bought an rework station YiHUA853D, and it brakes down after one hour of useI can see yours boards are different then mine, but hopefully someone have same unit as me.I need to find out what is the L1 on the pix. It looks like resistor but is signed as L1. As you can see it is completely burned :/Can someone help me pls??Thx a lot!

author: subratri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2014, 09:54:24 am
content: Hi. Yes I'm talking with them but it is one email per day if lucky. It will take ages... Much faster would be just to fix it.The IC is 723 voltage regulator and it have an short cut. That way the l1 is dead. And yes it is connected with the ground but it says nothing. It looks like an resistor but this L1 ... L is very far from R :)aboutthe board... After a lot of research I believe it is a board from 992DA ( or something... ) Unfortunately there is nothing about it in the Google...I didn't have a chance to check if it can sleep :-)

author: subratri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2014, 06:47:01 am
content: It looks like the old one, just the board is different. Unfortunately 992 is not close to mine :/Will try to dismount this regulator, If will solve the shortcuts then I'm home

author: subratri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2014, 08:42:56 am
content: Hi again, finally i get the reasonable solution from them, they will post me whole circuit board. This time i will begin with taking pix of it :d will post it in hire too. In that case will be easier to solve problems like mine

author: hani93
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 09, 2014, 07:23:18 pm
content: Quote from: subratri on February 10, 2014, 12:04:16 pmGot your board yet ?here are some pics of working one...(seems to be 2.2 Ohm 10% resistor)

author: subratri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2014, 09:34:09 pm
content: Yes I get it but I haven't see it yet:) my girlfriend revived it on Tuesday. Unfortunately I'm away for a bit . As soon as I can will pix it... Ha. It is resistorFor now I can only say, this regulator is responsable not only for power supply. After I removed from the board only the iron was working.Will do better report when will have a normal keyboard. Mobile is to ... Small?? :d

author: hani93
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 03:23:12 pm
content: Quote from: GEuser on March 10, 2014, 10:06:06 amHello, thanks for info , i have never seen/used inductors. (i'm just taking electronics as a hobby)So, sorry , my bad.Anyway, here is color code of it: Red Red Gold Silverand yes, it is marked as "L1"

author: hani93
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 03:42:18 pm
content: here are some more photos, of that "Power Supply Board" , if interested...http://s684.photobucket.com/user/urmas98/library/

author: hani93
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 04:03:09 pm
content: picture in attachmentand yes, it seems to be inductor, lifted 1 leg, and measured.. result: 0 ohm

author: hani93
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 04:29:01 pm
content: it connects to pin 7 & 9 on LM723CN (V- & Vz)http://www.ti.com.cn/cn/lit/ds/symlink/lm723.pdffor me it seems more like it is connected to ground on both sides of conductor.isolates grounds ? (sorry if dumb question)

author: hani93
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 04:44:21 pm
content: ok, here i'm really interested, that, what are differences between 5A/3A/1A versions.maybe there is some "hack" to unlock more amps out of this "1A" beast ?google-ing here for lm723 schematics...

author: hani93
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 04:59:40 pm
content: Quote from: GEuser on March 10, 2014, 04:56:55 pmok, thank's for help anyway ;-)

author: subratri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2014, 07:06:37 pm
content: hi again. i have finally time to say about my happy andIn the end, they sand me booth boards. Im so gladi have connect it together and... the hot air didn't start:/after quick check - all correctthen i have open the blower and i realized that the "potential connector" (no idea how to call it in English or any another language) get brake. In the end i have tune the blower by micro switch. Every think works now almost like newSo this inductor have nothing to do with another parts of the unit. It is only connected to the voltage regulator.In the same time the inductor show me a judge resistance in 100 of MOhm. Do not remember now how much exactly but as long as it have nothing to do with the soldering station i do not care about it at all.THX a lot for help and sorry for my unreadable (probably) english.

author: subratri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2014, 07:18:48 am
content: HI.Yes it it reed switch;) I knew how it works, just didn't know how to call itOn the pix is how i have solved. Unfortunately the micro switch is microand the spaces between connectors in it are micro too. So after i switch it on the magnetic fill doesn't let him to switch off by it self. I need to switch off by the main switch on the box. But it is not an issue for me. So i will left it like it is.The board witch is on the pix few topics before is exactly the same as mine, so no reason to do pix again.More interesting is the 2nd board. There is kind of antenna on it and i had external antenna in the box. I have no idea for what it is? how i can use it?

author: subratri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2014, 07:19:57 am
content: And 2 more pix.

author: subratri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2014, 07:21:22 am
content: And one more as the size limit is very small

author: subratri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2014, 04:04:42 pm
content: misunderstandingi did not send back the old one, so i the end i have 2 complete sets of them.

author: powerslide
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 07, 2014, 09:50:02 pm
content: Hi,I have got a Yihua 853D+ rework station.I bought it without a soldering iron, but I ordered from Ebay.I connected the station and in the soldering side tempreture display show only 003 Celsius and does not heating up.When I connected first time heated up aroun 200 Celcius and after the temperature was going down.I checked both resistor measure between 1-2 legs 0 ohm and between 4-5 legs 2.1 ohm in my room.http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/390711831688?txnId=420917901026I bought a new soldering Iron but still not working it has a same issue.Thanks

author: powerslide
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 08, 2014, 04:35:17 pm
content: Quote from: GEuser on July 08, 2014, 01:06:59 amThank you so much.I want to buy another original iron. Please help me what can I choose?Which one the best one?Thanks

author: YankeeSierra
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 05:44:55 am
content: Hello Guys, another electronics hobbyist here, I also got the 853D, it was working great, I even used it to charge some 12v8ah lead acid batteries, and fried it when I tried to recover an old battery that was ready for the recycler, so, dont try to desulfate batteries with it,hehehehe, anyway I have located the issue, and resistor R56 is shorted, but it is a 5 band resistor and I have no idea on what the value is, all online value checkers fail since it has a black band on one edge, if any of you can give me some advise, it would be much appreciated.Best regardsP.S. by the way R56 is the big blue resistor, 2 or 3 watts to the right of the picture.

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 09:50:04 am
content: First band shouldn't be black, check it again, it might be Blue or Violet (possibly even brown), it's hard to see in your picture, have a closer look in some good light.Quote from: YankeeSierra on September 23, 2015, 05:44:55 am

author: YankeeSierra
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 05:47:23 pm
content: Thank you TheBay for your prompt reply, sorry for the picture, I am sure the band is black, here is another picture. thank you.

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 05:59:25 pm
content: Definitely looks black! I've never encountered a resistor that starts with a black colour code, but could it be 0.33 ohms? This would fit with the silver band indicating x0.01

author: YankeeSierra
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 08:29:12 pm
content: Thank you very much Andy, you were right, first i thought that resistor was shorted but a closer inspection with the element disconnected shows .33 ohms on my meter so I will have to keep looking for whats wrong with the power supply.Thank you very much, have a great day.

author: ffp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 21, 2016, 12:49:27 pm
content: Hello,Sorry to revive old topic but here a lot of information.I bought Unbranded 853D but inside it look exactly as YiHUA 853D. Except minor detail that there is no RF. So I am thinking to add it my self as it look missing few items.I have a solder blob on R55 on main board, and on front panel D12, C12, C10? (next to C9), R51 (solder blob with component look like 100 ohm)I am also trying to make partial schematic on voltage regulated circuit. I will post my work once I figure out some parts.

author: ffp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 25, 2016, 09:38:56 pm
content: Scary soldering station. Look like they do everything backwards. Like power switch for supply have +5V and when you flip it it become ground. I thought it would feed 5V but not... Well for me the impression is they brake Ground connection instead of braking positive.PS: You can see how poorly board is made. I might try to clean it....

author: ffp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 27, 2016, 12:42:12 am
content: Took me toooo long to draw simple circuit.I made errors, and I hope all fixed and no mistakes. I use multisim to draw and test but it did not work. May be due that it is not complete circuit or multisim not working property. In the past long long time ago I did use it and it did not work...Attached pdf and multisim files.PS: I redraw everything to make it more neat.

author: ffp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 27, 2016, 11:20:58 pm
content: That why when I draw that it did look funny to me. I even go online to see what type of circuits based on LM.. and I was hoping Q3 and "Q0" would be set as darlington pair...The variable resistor "R0" on mine is close to 6K ohm and on YiHUA is 3K ohm (I wonder if I have some where 3K variable resistor to see if i will get smooth voltage adjustment. (I hate that from close to 11 o'clock it start changing voltage)I hope there is a way to make a sleep function for solder station.. I wonder what CON16 for...Here is images of boards. I took a lot of pictures and did not really sort them. (Good bad and ugly all there)https://mega.nz/#!PtFGXbCC!OdqIuLRJvPa_0PPv4FJmyPoMnh-AZqjbbPlnw6F4IUsPS: I did try add digital volt/amp meter board that I bought few on Ebay (Big mistake) those boards very inaccurate. Voltage is off and I knew that current will be off but did not expect that it show inaccurate voltage. If I adjust correctly to 1 volt and when go to 15 volt it will be off by 1-2 volts. So I install back original analog amp meter... Had to install through negative (Originally the amp meter was hookup to positive. I guess it was done so you can measure voltage... That idea is stupid due that if you use power supply why measure voltage? You need multimiter just measuring voltage give you nothing, nada, zilch....)PSS: Off topic but I like this DIY power supply:http://www.sentex.ca/~mec1995/circ/ps3010/ps3010a.html

author: ffp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 28, 2016, 03:14:06 pm
content: Quick update. Today I took of pot out and it's 10Kohm so I install 5Kohm and voltage regulation work like a charm. So for those unbranded 853D that is easy fix for regulated power supply. 1 Amp is perfect protection. If it go more then 1 Amp then there would be and issue....Here info on tips. The original that come with my station look too dip and wider. I have bad Hakko original tip and it fit better. I took metal insert from Hakko tip and it reduce gap between unknown tips.. so I hope it will transfer better heat. The only downside is heating element slightly shorter for unknown tips. I look for Hakko tips and they pretty pricey, so will use that unbranded junky tips and see how it go.PS: I have Hakko 939 with 903 handle and I like that heating element come with tip but after a while tip and heating element separates... The only downside that there not fine tips for micro-soldering.Edit: I clean both boards and due that I took most of it apart I will take more pictures of the boards, just in case if something go bad I have references where is what. Also it would be possible to draw schematic and get idea how solder station works. I think I will not draw more schematic of this board due that it take huge amount of time.

author: ffp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 03:07:17 am
content: After washing board in 99% alcohol in ultrasonic cleaner. It look funny white... I will try get flux off to clean that out now... I did take a look at 2nd board and what I learn there 2 8-Bit Microcontrollers (One for iron and other for air) I guess if there would be a way to read and write program then there might be easy hack to add sleep function... It also scary if one of the chip fry then this unit become useless...So I will try clean boards again and only 1 idea left add a fan as there only holes at bottom and nothing on sides or top. I think adding a fan would be good idea just need build a board that will convert 15 volt to variable 12-5 so it will be easier to adjust speed of a fan.One more thing I need to do after cleaning add silicon thermal paste for heat-sinks as there none.. oops forgot. Need scrape clean case where ground is used. Also on board there ground connector to that connects to capacitor...More ugly pictures if some one need it.File>https://mega.nz/#!gRdmAYyJ!keHDcG-9cbzggwgkz3siQYgNnB4Ows78YGTsHDRiVyQPS: I am attaching all data sheets for ic, transistors...etc. I think I got all of them..Files>https://mega.nz/#!5RFFwLwZ!QZwG0BHpwfsRYqBr4E1YCSimOsqfpunbQkdvCjlcew8

author: TonyL
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 18, 2016, 06:03:54 am
content: I recently bought one of these - well a 853DA 1A (Diaphragm Pump Type) from eBayWhat I didn't notice before buying was the fan in handle model is ~110L/min and the diaphragm style is ~24L/minThe iron temp at tip (cheapo multimeter w/ thermocouple shakingly held at end of tip) is about 120c out - assuming the Yihua display is actually CelsiusPSU Display is missing a few lines, haven't checked whether the voltage output is correctTried to use the hot air gun with the smallest tip (2mm) and most of the air is leaking out the top of the handle instead of the tip - anyone found a fix for this?

author: ffp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 19, 2016, 03:01:40 am
content: Check with seller to get some spare parts or discount. If you have YiHUA they will send replacement or they can fix it. I have D version that use brushless fan and you have actually pump inside. I would guess you need check your handle for damages?For iron try get Hakko tips as they fit better or check heating element and tips. Mine need some modifications so ceramic element would be closer to the tips. If you can get used Hakko tips you can take out metal insert from it so it might improve heat transfer as well. (Hopefully temperature would be better on the tip)You can adjust voltage output... (mine was 1 volt off so I adjust it. If your voltage start change about at 10-11 O'clock you can fix it by replacing variable resistor to 5K as yours might be 10K ohm)

author: TonyL
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 20, 2016, 12:51:18 pm
content: Seller wants a video of the issues, which is proving hard at the moment with my camera work fail and Australias upload speedsWith todays testing/videoing the iron set at 300c will get to ~270 after about 3minsThe hot air gun leaking could probably be fixed with a suitable sealant..However I'm thinking of buying some Hakko bits and trying to make the hot air FR801 style and perhaps a real 907ESD Iron later on

author: ffp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 24, 2016, 08:16:22 pm
content: I would not make to many changes to the station. There a lot of fakes of Hakko 907 and, as you know it is discontinued (Also if you plan just add Hakko 907 Handle to your station will be bad idea as they different.). Even Hakko tips fake.I uploaded my videos to zippyshare site (Just made them smaller with video re-encoding software. I do not remember what video software I used...)PS: I just do not have time to play with my station summer started and lots of things to do outside of the house...

author: Steve Wayne
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2016, 05:53:43 am
content: Quote from: GEuser on September 21, 2012, 08:01:35 amI found these heating elements to be a perfect match for the original YiHUA 853D solder iron. 5 for $11 reasonably priced too...http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-A1321-A1323-Stainless-metal-Heating-Element-Heat-Core-for-936-Soldering-accessory/32347864277.html

author: go_boy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 06, 2016, 01:31:37 pm
content: Anyone who still has one of these with the board available?Perhaps someone can help me to identify Q4 on the board from this Yihua 853D? Mine exploded when the item I was powering with the built in power supply created a small arc (arc as designed, sadly it was not properly isolated).I have circled Q4 in the attached image:

author: fxlaptop
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 22, 2017, 02:35:08 am
content: i know its been a few months but i have one and that transistor is the same as Q1 which on mine say 1AM.. funny part number for an smd transistor lol .. hope this helps you

author: britelightleds
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 12, 2017, 07:44:31 pm
content: hi all i have the 853D which i love, Sadly i have a problem where the Voltage regulation is not working, i am getting a voltage output of 35V and also 35V is displayed on the volt meter and i have also confirmed it with multimeter.i have tested the potentiometer and that is working all OK, so what could be the problem? Why is it outputting 35V ( i am unable to control the voltage using the voltage potentiometer ) when it should only be 15V max?

author: fxlaptop
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 30, 2017, 08:48:11 pm
content: i know this post and question are old but you need to change the old style TO-3 -2n3055 power transistoron the back of the enclosure.. i bet its shorted across the emitter and base-- you have overloaded it somehow and it reverse biased and blew the transistor.. ive done it several times thats how i found out .. the old 35v thing and pot not working was a big clue lol... the TO-3 transistor on mine is a 2n3055.. yours may be different i dunno... good luck hope this helps... FXoh also if you burn resistor R14 and or R56? , they are both 3 watt @ 5% tolerance150 ohms on R14 -- and .33 ohms on R56

author: Venutech
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 10, 2019, 02:02:50 am
content: Thank you, @fxlaptop, I'm happy someone had a similar issue as my YiHua 853D.I tried to charge a burnt out battery and something went wrong. My volt output always shows 29.5 and volt meter reading just goes crazy until the R14 resistor burns out, then it shows 0.0 and turning the pot does nothing. I replaced my R14 (150 Ohm 3W5%) resistor today since it was totally burnt to a crisp. Replacement started heating up and almost burnt out right away even with the powersupply control off. Going back to the hobby shop tomorrow to get a replacement transistor, the model on my large rear transistor is 2N3773. When I unplug the transistor from the socket on the mainboard then R14 does not heat up. Soldering iron and heat gun work fine.Quote from: fxlaptop on September 30, 2017, 08:48:11 pmUpdate 6/10/2019: Transistor leaks like a sieve. Called around the Toronto area for a replacement 2N3773 and nobody has one. I dont want to wait 2 months to ship from China but it seems like thats what I need to do.Update 11/15/2019: Got a 2N3772 and replaced the 2n3773 on the back. After running a successful smoke test the voltmeter/power supply is working like new.