What is your solution for keeping and tracking parts? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Mighty Burger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2022, 08:59:56 pm
content: What is your solution for keeping and tracking parts?My current solution is to just not really care. I have one of those Acro-mil cabinets to organize THT resistors. Then I just have a few cardboard boxes, one per project, with a bunch of little bags of components. I have a lot of useful components in those boxes, but it doesn't help me if I don't know I have them, let alone how much I have. As I move onto other projects, I'd like to have some way to easily find out if I already have certain parts on hand.Here's my brainstorming. I'm thinking I might look into some kind of inventory software. As a hobbyist it should be a stupid simple one. Maybe I could quickly make one, might be a fun programming project. It would just need to list all the parts I have, how much I have, and where they are physically located. Could probably tack on some neat BOM functionality to quickly create a shopping list for an upcoming build. And maybe something to print labels, but I'd need a label printer. This kind of software has to already exist elsewhere I'm sure.It'd be a bit of a hassle to have to go on the computer and mark whenever I use a part or put it back in my stock, but keeping everything organized may be worth it. I might keep it separate from "uncontrolled stock" for stuff like THT resistors I use for breadboarding, where I really don't want to deal with the hassle of tracking parts.But then comes the problem of actually storing parts. How do you do it? I'm sure the best solution is to use a variety of methods, simply because electrical components vary wildly in physical size. Storage appropriate for SMD 0603 parts probably wouldn't be appropriate for transformers or big metal heatsinks. Those plastic tackle boxes are neat, but the separators can lift up and small SMD parts can sneak through. I'd need a way to track all of these locations in the stock "database".There's a few ideas, but I'm struggling to put everything together and make a plan.

author: abquke
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2022, 09:06:37 pm
content: My company got rolling wire racks that came with plastic bins that have worked out great for me. I labeled them with tags as well as row-column numbers.As for inventory, I started out with a spreadsheet. It actually becomes a precious bit of data if you cultivate it as you go.Eventually my company got a program by the name of Fishbowl that keeps track of inventory and other things. Probably overkill for a company with less than 10 people.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2022, 09:11:02 pm
content: I've been using an MS Access database since forever. But I don't keep track of all components. The trick is to only organise components that you are likely to use regulary and just throw away excess components from a project. Storage & organisation cost time & money as well! Also settle on a limited number of SMT sizes. Currently I have mostly 0603, some 1206 and some 0402.For storing SMT components, the best way is to use little bins with a flip top. I have a whole bunch of these:You can organise these in small 'tablets'. For me a 5x5 sized tablet works well.And don't bother with printing stickers. Utter waste of time. Buy a fine tipped waterproof pen and just write what is in the bin.Last but not least: invest in some bigger bins (like Bito RK3209) to keep parts of a project together.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2022, 09:37:16 pm
content: Quote from: Mighty Burger on July 09, 2022, 08:59:56 pmMy general approach has been plastic bags (of various sizes depending on the component) in boxes which stack. An example:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/resistor-kit/msg3578649/#msg3578649There a couple of small cardboard boxes in the mix (tops made from manila folder stock). In the first picture you can see some strips of SMD components in the upper right -- they are also in a plastic bag and each strip is labeled.You'll note that not all the resistors are in the small bags and I'm fine with that -- I know this box is where I'll find my resistors.I have another literature mailer box similarly divided with my transistors/voltage regulators/and other stuff and another one with just caps.

author: gbaddeley
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2022, 06:31:50 am
content: KISS applies. I use a spreadsheet with columns for part number, description, quantity, location, cost, source, date purchased, comments. All small parts are in see through plastic bags labelled using permanent marker, and sorted into various size boxes. Bigger items in clear plastic take away containers and larger clear plastic boxes, making it easy to visually locate things.

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2022, 06:47:00 am
content: I have realized that lowest-effort system I can manage is:* Just order enough parts and some excess for a project. Can sneak in some interesting parts not related to the project* Keep parts as packaged in original cardboard box it was shipped in. Write date or project name on the box. I remember I did project X in year Y.* Have vague remembrance "oh, related to this project, I bought this". My brain works this way: when parts relate to a project, I remember well how I designed it and why, and can reuse the same parts for a similar project.* Log in to Digikey/Mouser and look at order history* Find the exact part number* Find the right box* Build the prototype with the old excess parts - order more parts if needed.This isn't the best possible system, but it's near zero effort. My attempts to build a well planned database or spreadsheet of my parts always fails because I lack the long time focus.

author: Colt45
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2022, 08:51:42 am
content: Champion system - no system, never able to find parts.End up ordering more parts and lose interest in the project by the time they show up.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2022, 09:46:14 am
content: Try the thing Defpom wrote:https://mypartsbin.com/index.php

author: sami_testarossa
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2022, 05:18:52 am
content: I am working on my company's lab cleaning. I think I am 99% done and is ready to share. I believe there will be people searching this topic on google in the future. So, there should be value to spend time typing this here.Tools:3 Ring BinderLinkBinder Zip BagLinkLabel Maker of your choice (I use Brady M211 which does heat shrink as well)2D Barcode Scanner (ex: Zebra DS2208) (I use DS4308)Software:Partsbox.comSetup:Put parts in the zip bag (keep the original anti-static for best protection, and the original label is nice).Print label for each zip bag to ID the content.Store less than 10 zip bags in binder (so it is easier to find item).Name your binder and print on paper to display on binder spine.Label Details at Each Zip Bag:Machine readable code for Manufacture Part Number. Code format: Data Matrix.Text for Manufacture Part Number.Text for Part Description.(Depending on how your label maker works, you need to find a way to quickly copy those three info from partsbox.com browser page to your label app. Since I am using a mobile focused label maker, I actually wrote a 30 lines of html page to allow me copy/paste text and covert to QR Code for Brady M211 app to read).Inventory Construction:Create "storage" for your binder naming. I am naming mine the following: BOOK CAP 1, BOOK CAP 2, BOOK MCU 1, BOOK RES 1, BOOK IND 1, etc...Receiving:Partsbox.com is nice to allow barcode reading for free user. Simply scan Digikey and Mouser 2D Barcode. It even gives you a simple scanner config if using Zebra.A new part will prompt for part creation with auto population of quantity base on distributor label. Make sure you select the "location" based on your binder name.A existing part will prompt for direct receiving into existing location. You may change location if you wish.Using:Simply scan your own label to bring up part page. There, you can remove stock if using any. Or you can move stock (to different binder) if you wish.It also supports BOM that allows you to remove stock in batch based on BOM. It is call "project" in partsbox.comWhen building a board, the project page can show (with some config) the location of each line item. Simply grab all binder to your bench and start building. After build, complete the project will auto remove stock based on project BOM quantities.Export:Native export to JSON file with nested information.Optionally, you can select all item in "parts" to download as CSV that will give you plain list but lose all history.

author: DrGeoff
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2022, 05:50:32 am
content: I wrote a system to do this for my lab work.It's on github athttps://github.com/gswan/axtparts/Runs on a small server (LAMP) and is available across the network for multiple users concurrently.Once I have the new website online there will be a live demo system available for those who are interested.- Geoff

author: Avelino Sampaio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2022, 06:42:23 am
content: Here on the forum I offer an inventory application, made in MS Access.* I have more than 1400 items registered and I find my pieces very quickly.* The program gives me a list of items that are under-stocked.* When writing off the stock, I get a list of the cost of a particular project.* The program calculates the cost of items by weighted average.* Open code. If you have knowledge of VBA, you can adapt the project to your needs.It's DIY and from the heart.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/a-small-(open-source)-inventory-control-application-using-ms-access/msg3639178/#msg3639178

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2022, 10:46:13 pm
content: Countless threads on this subject.For moderate prototype quantities (cut tape of 100pc or less say), get the usleeve:https://www.eevblog.com/product/usleeve/Have a few binders, have sections if needed using normal binder tabs and label them (eg, buck converters, opamps, etc.). Then order within each sheet.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2022, 11:01:28 pm
content: I generally collect all the parts related to a specific project and put them in a ziplock freezer bag labeled with what project it is, then I put those into cardboard boxes that I stack on a shelf. It's not ideal but it's been working ok.

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2022, 11:18:32 pm
content: As EE for 55 years, Since 1960s have collected parts from surplus stores, ham fleas, then silent key friends...leftover prototypes, and from production of SMPSCategory....passives, RC, L, pots, trimmers, lytics, connectors HV, magnetics, transistors diodes, FETS, heatsinks......Bankers boxes of TH ammo packs axial R, C.....Used plastic parts bins, and modular parts organizers.30 1' deep 3'..4'W Grainger industrial metal shelves.Occupies 100 m sq area.No inventory or software, it's all in my brain.Estimate I can locate one out of 1e6 parts........." We have built a very fine laboratory in Livermore " ( heavy Hungarian accent)Dr Edward Teller, 1960s ( about LLNL, Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory)Just the ramblings of an old retired EEJon

author: David Aurora
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2022, 11:49:51 pm
content: At some point a few years back I tried to set up an inventory system. Tried a few apps, tried my accounting software, tried rolling my own system, but eventually I realised maintaining it is a whole job in itself even for a small workshop like mine.I have a friend working for me as an assistant these days who I'm training up and at one point I got him to start sorting boxes of random parts into categories with the idea that I might get him to do a proper inventory once they were separated, but the reality is that you need a certain parts vocabulary to do that (e.g. to the untrained eye, is a 3 terminal device a BJT, a FET, a regulator, a voltage reference? Is an 8 pin IC an op amp, a charge pump, a regulator, a microcontroller?). I got him to Google part numbers as he went, but at a certain point it made no sense to be paying him to sit there googling parts one at a time when I could separate them by eye myself, but then if I was sitting there doing that it makes less financial sense because the workshop isn't doing billable work.So yeah, that idea has gone out the window even though I'd love to have everything in a database to avoid triple buying parts I'm sure I have but don't have time to look forStorage wise, after years of the old standard plastic drawers I recently moved everything to these types of things-https://www.bunnings.com.au/montgomery-12-compartment-organiser-storage-box_p2580706Makes it way easier to take a handful of values to my desk or out to a job elsewhere. Resistors are sorted in E12 values with non-E12/trimmers/LDRs etc in the last box. Capacitors are sorted by most used values with less commonly used values thrown together based on ranges (e.g. 3.3nF, 15nF and 27nF poly would all be together. 56uF, 120uF and 82uF electrolytic would all be together. While I bought all of them at some point for a reason I've almost never used those values again so I don't mind picking through if I have to once in a while). Similar thing with ICs/transistors/diodes- parts I use a lot like 5532 op amps or LM317 regulators will have their own sections, whereas all general purpose n channel JFETs will be in one shared section and same goes for zener diodes.Big parts like power resistors/axial capacitors/transformers/connectors are in their own tubs. Vacuum tubes, heatsinks and all that other bulky shit lives on one particular shelf.Last but not least, about 2 years worth of parts orders are strewn across various cardboard boxes which I curse on a daily basis as I sift through them looking for parts that should be in the aforementioned storage solutions.

author: fourfathom
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2022, 02:25:26 am
content: for cheap passives (0603 1K 1%: reel of 5000 for $3) I just buy the reel and store those in a simple home-made wooden reel-holder. Otherwise I cut non-reel tapes into shorter lengths and store those in an ACRO-Mils type drawer cabinet. If I plan to use the parts in my pick/place machine I obviously keep the tapes un-cut.

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2022, 03:48:55 am
content: Quote from: Siwastaja on July 10, 2022, 06:47:00 amPretty much what I've been doing too.To find parts, either I'll remember a specific part I've used in a given past project, or I'll usually look it up across BOMs of past projects (through a local indexing search tool) rather than bother to look it up on websites in past orders. I have the BOMs, and they are linked to projects, so I see no need to add a database on top of that.Having a well organized stock in lab looks great but it isn't that useful in practice compared to the above.

author: snarkysparky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2022, 11:23:43 am
content: Excel sheet with a zillion tabs works well for me. For instance if I want to use a NPN transistor there is a tab for that in my spreadsheet. So open the tab and all my NPN in stock are there for perusing.

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2022, 01:03:24 pm
content: Quote from: sami_testarossa on November 24, 2022, 05:18:52 amI may be biased but I would strongly suggest that if you're buying the software you go with something that has a perpetual license. Partsbox may be great, but you can never stop paying for it - hit hard times, or Partsbox dies or just increases prices because they want to, and your inventory is toast.Next, I would strongly suggest you use your own part number. Manufacturers are important but should be considered similar to other descriptive fields (colour, price, etc). Use your own part number scheme and you will always know what the format is, never have duplicates, etc.For storage, if you are using an parts inventory system then your storage should be numbered in a way that makes sense for the numbering. For example, I have a rotary drawers tower and the individual draws are number with the tower, cabinet, column, row: RD0104, for example. If the drawer has dividers it could RD010402. You unique part number then maps to the location number and there's your thing. Works with any storage (I also use pill boxes, folders, shelves, etc).And... if you're serious and expect to use this for a long time, forget about putting, say, all resistors next to each other, never mind in value order, all capacitors next to each other, etc. It just doesn't cope with expansion - sooner or later you will use up all the spare spaces you reserved for whatever values, and you'll have loads of empty spaces in the wrong section. Instead, just plonk new parts in the next available suitable container (but still label them with what they are). To find something, you use the inventory system to identify the location, and there it is. An advantage of this approach is that it is hard to pick the wrong part - if you have resistors next to resistors you can easily pick from the adjacent tray by mistake, but if you're going for a resistor and you pick a capacitor it is quickly clear you got the wrong tray.

author: EPAIII
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2022, 11:02:10 am
content: Keeping and Tracking PartsThat is an important concept. In business, time is money. And if you can't find it, you don't have it. I worked in TV stations and there were many parts. Some were "generic" parts like resistors, capacitors, transistors, ICs, screws, nuts, etc. Others were OEM parts that were only available from one or just a very small number of sources (like two). Some were dirt cheap and others were so expensive that the bean counters questioned if we really needed them, at least at that price.Most of the places where I worked had parts storage schemes which were only partially implemented and often poorly at that. Or they were implemented without thought to the next item to come in. An example would be a bin for a 100 uF capacitor followed by a bin for a 500 uF one with no extra bin(s) between them. So a 250 uF arrives and has to be placed out of sequence. Things like this often lead to some kind of filing system where the locations are not in order and one must consult with the system to find them. Computers are often used for this but they were preceded by manual systems where something like library cards were used. It is a lot easier to insert a card between two existing cards than it is to move inventory from one bin to another. Especially when one must move dozens or even hundreds of items from bin to bin. And computers just move the records electronically.But the places where I worked did not have the man-hours needed to set up and maintain and operate a system like that. And, as for computers, TV station owners back then did have a few words for them, but I won't repeat them here. Believe it or not, it was a struggle getting computers into TV stations. At least until the news department wanted them and couldn't live without them, but that is another story. Strangely enough I was introduced to computerized inventory control in the US Army before my TV career. I actually had a maintenance parts facility in Vietnam and it was computer based. Even had an officer in charge of just that computer. And it worked - usually.But back to civilian jobs: no, I was never at a civilian job where our thousands and thousands of parts were inventoried by computer. For better or worse, I had to use manual systems and did not ever have the man-power for even a card based system. So what did I do?The first thing was to make the decision that the physical storage system had to also be the filing system. You had to know where to look by the physical system itself. And it had to be easy and intuitive to use. It had to make provision for new parts to be added BETWEEN the existing ones with only a minimum amount of effort. And, of course, the space was always limited. I will list the major methods that I used below. Keep in mind that some of these methods overlap. So divisions by generic vs. OEM and by small, and large will overlap producing four different storage areas. This was not a big problem because the person putting a part into stock or finding one he needed there usually knew which of these divisions it fell into.Division by GENERIC and OEM parts:These are two major distinctions and it is very useful to store them separately. So generic parts were stored by their physical values. An area for 1/4W, 5% resistors can easily be set up to contain all 5% values and there will be no need for new bins between values. And 1/10W, 5% resistors can take up where the 1/4W ones end. Etc. But OEM parts almost always have a part number. This is because the OEMs will have a computerized system and these parts are identified with those numbers. A 1% resistor that was a special order when originally purchased is best identified by that OEM part number. I organized OEM parts alpha-numerically by COMPANY NAME and then by the PART NUMBER within each name. So all the OEM parts for Apex machines were before those for Beamer machines. Etc.Division by the SIZES of the parts:An overall concept here is MODULAR storage. The storage locations are either identical or have compatible dimensions. This allows the most efficient use of the available space.Many parts we use are quite small. Resistors, many capacitors, transistors, screws, nuts, washers: all of these are usually small enough to be stored in a small plastic draw. Often several sizes can be stored in one small draw with dividers. So the first area that I set up is for small parts. The common plastic drawers (about 2" wide x 1" high x 4" deep) are installed in multiple and IDENTICAL size cabinets. This provides many storage locations at an affordable price. And to keep things modular, those cabinets with the plastic drawers are themselves placed on modular shelving.A second size group can be established with standard bins on standard shelving. Both cardboard and plastic bins are available in multiples of 2" widths and either 12" or 16" depth. These can occupy 12" or 16", standard shelves which are vertically spaced at a standard distance. In my garage shop I am using cardboard bins with widths from 2" to 12" on wall mounted shelves that are at about 8" intervals. This keeps wasted space to a minimum. You can get dividers for these bins to make internal divisions. To further increase the range of items that can be stored, I use cardboard "mini bins" inside the larger cardboard bins. They are a little under 2" wide and a little under 4" front to back so three will fit in a row. I have used both of these types of cardboard bins at a number of my employer's storage systems. In my own, garage shop I also divide the cardboard bins using Rx pill bottles. I cut the "child proof" lock off and many small parts can fit in them. They come in various sizes. I use round labels that I print with my computer on the lids to ID the contents. Modular, modular, MODULAR!For items too large to fit in the cardboard bins, I just use shelf storage. But again, I use the same modular shelving that is used for the smaller parts. This is where the system breaks down somewhat, but I did not ever have a lot of really large parts and most of the people on this board probably will not.Adding New Parts // Easy Movement of Parts From One Location to Another AND Part ID LabelsThis is where almost every system that I have encountered fell down. What am I talking about and why is it important. If a new part arrives and there is no place for it, no one wants to move dozens or even hundreds of parts to make room. And that would be a big waste of time. So the system should make provisions for this. Adding a new part should be both easy and intuitive. And the modular nature of the above ideas are a big part of the answer here.The first thing I have always done was to leave empty locations in every drawer, in every bin, and on every shelf. So when putting parts in plastic drawers I would divide the drawers into three or four sections and always leave one section empty. But sooner or later those empty sections would fill up, so I did more than just that. For the plastic draw sections I used a piece of card stock (index cards trimmed to fit) which was bent into an L shape. It covered the bottom and the back of the section. The part ID information was (computer) printed on the vertical part at the rear. This not only IDed the part, but it made moving the part to a new drawer easy. Just pick up the cardboard with the parts on it and place it in the new drawer. Both the part and it's ID were moved. I avoided adhesive labels here and on the fronts of the drawers where I used slide in labels. Using this system, moving parts to make space for new ones was easy. Of course, whole drawers could also be moved and their parts ID labels would also move with them.With the cardboard bins similar card stock labels could be printed and used inside the compartments but larger sizes of the card stock was needed. Mini-bins and the Rx bottles can also be easily be moved with their contents and labels to make space for new arrivals.My present garage shop is struggling with storage. I have an electronic bench there but also have wood and machining tools and stocks. Things like wood and metal stock can be very challenging to store in an efficient manner. It is a work in progress.I know this was long, but I hope it helps someone.

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2022, 04:16:47 am
content: I keep parts and projects in bags in file folders. Can pack a lot of stuff into a small area that way.Painters tape and sharpie for large labels.I put them in stacking plastic totes that hold file folders, from Staples. They are much easier to move than a large filing cabinet.Used to use old digikey boxes but that took up about 10x more space and didn't stack as nicely.