hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Silicon Wafer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Michael Kuzie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2014, 09:29:03 pm
content: Lately I have been searching around on ebay and other websites to see if I can find a nice silicon wafer die that I can use to display on my desk! I have had some luck finding wafers but the majority are 6" (150mm) and I would love to have a 12" (300mm) wafer. If anyone has tips on buying a wafer, where to find a good wafer for sale or how to display the wafer nicely please leave a comment, it will be greatly appreciated!

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2014, 05:23:18 am
content: FWIW,Advantivmight be worth checking into (300mm, no MOQ).For display purposes, perhaps decorative plate holder/display products might offer something you'd like.

author: jmt
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 14, 2014, 06:16:47 am
content: What is your budget like? Ebay has everythinghttp://www.ebay.com/itm/12-300mm-Silicon-Pattern-Wafer-Wafers-/171367735428?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e6502084Looks like the 300mm wafers have only been around since 2001, while the 6" ones have been around since the early 80s. The smaller ones can be had for $25 or less it seems.As for displaying it, I would keep it simple and back it with foam core cut to size, then mount it raised off the wall. Alternatively, get one of those wafter clips and permanently fasten it to the wafer and hang the handle from a picture frame hook.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2014, 02:42:24 pm
content: Oh, and do you want plain, or printed?Comes to mind... aha! They do have a lot:http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19154Also 4" wafers, and a 12" one!Tim

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2014, 05:57:16 pm
content: The problem is shipping those things.They really need packaging in a wafer box. Especially the big boys are prone to cracking. And then , even in such a box , stuffing them in a padded envelope doesnt work.safest is a cannister or an ePAD but those are hard to get a hold of as they are being re-used.http://www.elcontco.com/ePAK/ePAK-Wafer-Catalog.pdf
peek - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: GEuser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2014, 12:19:12 pm
content: Q

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2014, 06:35:15 pm
content: Yes, cheaply made probably available from many sources. I am going to strip one soon, you have an 18VAC transformer and a 100uF capacitor connected across the outer pins of the motor with voltage applied to either end with the centre common to rotate it.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2014, 05:33:17 am
content: Not an antenna rotator, but a camera rotator. Will be coming off the ceiling sometime soon as the camera gets relocated. Will just have to find another bracket for the camera.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2014, 06:11:54 pm
content: Here is a teaser. It came off today and will not be going back up as it was, now a lot lighter on the ceiling. No longer works as the control box is gone.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2014, 06:14:04 pm
content: A little more.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2014, 08:08:28 am
content: It is at least 30 years old, and the plastic parts are getting very brittle. I broke a few just taking them out, but the manufacturer used inserts for all screws into the plastic, and good needle roller thrust bearings. Likely will go as scrap metal now, as it mounts with a standard 1/4in camera thread and this fits the rather elderly monochrome CCD camera as well. New place for it on Monday.It had 2 modes of operation, either scan from limit to limit or you could rotate it as desired, controlled over the 4 wire cable by either feeding in 16VAC for the scan or connecting one side of the motor to AC via a centre off switch. The 10uF 50V NP electrolytic is looking rather old in there. Genuine no name brand and both sides have bulging seals. Likely if I apply power to it it will pop.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2014, 05:11:12 pm
content: Nice little slave motor inside there. Wonder just how long it will be till you notice that the inside and outside unit are no longer in alignment due to lost cycles and such.
Weller WHS40 tips? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tsoof100
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 26, 2014, 09:23:44 am
content: Hello Everyone!First post :](OK to the point..)I've got my hands on a usedWeller WHS40soldering station in a good condition, except the tipSo I've been trying to find any tips available on the web (eBay, Amazon and so on..) and couldn't find anyI was wondering if anyone know where I can find any tips for it..Giving up on that old and cheap soldering station could be an option, but hey, a free soldering station and you wouldn't give it a try?Many thanks,Tsoof

author: mij59
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2014, 10:01:32 am
content: Hi,Try Google.http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/830348/Weller-WHS40-Analoog-Soldeerstation-40-W-200-tot-450-Chttp://nl.farnell.com/weller/whs40/soldering-station-40w-230v/dp/957896

author: pickit2
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 26, 2014, 10:32:56 am
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/weller-whs40-tips-and-question-about-other-cheap-soldering-stations/msg339169/#msg339169

author: tsoof100
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 26, 2014, 12:12:10 pm
content: Thanks,I forgot to mention that I have found that post beforehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/weller-whs40-tips-and-question-about-other-cheap-soldering-stations/msg339169/#msg339169And I also found the tips in farnell and other on the web but they were quite expensive for weller tips, and also not a large selection of tips available as you can see in the conard website or others.Sorry for not explaining myself correctly.

author: jay
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2014, 05:48:13 am
content: A bit off topic: I started that order thread.. I ended up getting an ERSA I-Con Pico. It was the cheapest option (in EU) with a good selection of tips that I could find. I saved the WHS40 for extra heat when desoldering SMDs. If you can afford it get a better station than the WHS40.. It's usable but the tips and thermal capacity are far from the Ersa level.
Tools for simulation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: winfreak
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2014, 07:35:47 am
content: Hello!I have a quick question about tools used for simulation. I've used Multisim before in school, but it's rather horrible since it crashes every now and then and sometimes, the simulation part gives quirky results.What tools do you use and is there something cost efficient / free out there? Maybe eben FOSS?Once again, thanks for your help.Best regardsThomas

author: vortexnl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2014, 08:35:25 am
content: What kind of simulation are you looking for? I use LTSpice for my analog hardware, it isn't the easiest to use, but it works for me!

author: winfreak
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2014, 08:42:29 am
content: Quote from: vortexnl on July 15, 2014, 08:35:25 amI think I'm exactly looking for something like this, will check it out - thanks!
Encryption system teardown - nice pics of antitamper methods - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2014, 09:28:07 am
content: While looking for something else I came across this site:http://www.cryptomuseum.com/crypto/gretag/720/index.htmThere are various other machines there, not all of them with internal pics of guts, but very interesting all the same. On this particular device I found the anti-tamper system very interesting:Mercury tilt switch:http://www.cryptomuseum.com/crypto/gretag/720/img/301821/046/full.jpgModule cover:http://www.cryptomuseum.com/crypto/gretag/720/img/301821/011/full.jpgModule cover detail:http://www.cryptomuseum.com/crypto/gretag/720/img/301821/020/full.jpg(removal or destruction of the cover would result in detection and anti tamper action)There's also a photosensor. They took it seriously.Enjoy,David

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2014, 09:30:44 am
content: This one's interesting as well:http://www.cryptomuseum.com/burst/r014d/index.htmSoviet tech is always somewhat different

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 11, 2014, 11:10:42 am
content: +1Fantastic!

author: bwat
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2014, 11:30:45 am
content: This one comes with its own scope:http://www.cryptomuseum.com/spy/r355/index.htm.

author: sfiber
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2014, 11:38:07 am
content: excellent!!can you post more photo of inside it.I always like this stuff

author: dexters_lab
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 11, 2014, 11:52:49 am
content: nice! thanks for sharing

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2014, 11:54:48 am
content: QuoteI just stumbled upon it by chance - see first post. If you are interested in tamper resistance stuff, there's a fair amount of teardowns on the internets:

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2014, 08:30:02 pm
content: That looks awesome! Expensive, specialized electronics is always fun to teardown!

author: MJR
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2014, 08:53:55 pm
content: I would be interested in how the random noise generator worked on the gretacoder 720. Built with 2 video amplifiers. Time to tinker, but need to research it first.
Hot air guns/rework stations with programmable profile! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Carrington
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2014, 08:24:44 pm
content: Hi guys!After a long search I found 12 manufacturers:- BOKAR: FOCUS "X" Series:Website:http://www.bokar.com/index,39,FOCUS-X.html- JBC: TE, TE-Q, JT y JT-Q:Website:http://www.jbctools.com/hot-air-stations-category-3-menu-2.html- Hakko: HAKKO FR-803B:Website:http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr803b.html- OKI: HCT-1000:Website:http://www.okinternational.com/convection_rework_system/id-hct-1000/hct-1000_programmable_hand_held_convection_tool- PACE: ST 325 Digital:Website:http://www.paceworldwide.com/products/smt-rework-systems-and-preheaters/convective-rework-systems/st-325-digital-programmable-hot-air-reflow- Ersa: HR100:Website:http://www.ersa.com/art-hr-100-346-1474.html- QUICK: QUICK855PG:Website:http://www.quick-global.com/jslink/2-lead-free-rework-2f.html- GOOT: XFC-301, XFC-300 and XFC210.Website:http://www.goot.jp/en/suitori-reworkcat/surface-smt/page/2/- Weller: WHA3000P and WHA3000PSWebsite:http://www.weller.de/products/adv_search.php?keys=WHA3000P- Reeco: RA250e.Website:http://www.reeco.info/pokaz_produkt.php?id=15- AOYUE: INT2703A+Website:http://www.aoyue.com/en/ArticleShow.asp?ArticleID=436- SUNKKO: 852D.Website:http://www.sunkko.com/chanpinmulu/2014-3-17/19.htmlUnfortunately, are not cheap, with the exception of the AOYUE and SUNKKO, but probably these stations sucks.I found a HAKKO FR-803B clone:http://www.ipmart.com/main/product/CXG,813,Vortex,Constant,Temperature,De,Soldering,Station,147937.php?prod=147937But only the QUICK855PG and WHA3000P series uses a turbine with a brushless motor (high air flow and a good air pressure)...

author: Carrington
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2014, 08:28:30 pm
content: QUICK856AD (very similar to the QUICK855PG):

author: Carrington
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2014, 08:29:38 pm
content: Other QUICK station:

author: Carrington
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2014, 08:33:16 pm
content: HAKKO FR-803B:

author: Carrington
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2014, 08:37:15 pm
content: More HAKKO FR-803B:

author: Carrington
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2014, 08:42:57 pm
content: If anyone has more pictures, please share it.

author: Carrington
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2014, 08:56:49 pm
content: This is the SUNKKO 852D (there is another with the same name, but is not equal):
C4314 analog multimeter teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: denimks
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 09, 2014, 08:48:38 am
content: Hey guys. It's my first time posting here.I was thinking about analog multimeter teardowns video that Dave uploaded 2 weeks ago, so i decided to open up mine and share with you what's inside.
Crimp pins for SCART cables? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: krivx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2014, 01:55:26 am
content: I need to modify a couple of cables with SCART connectors. Most of seem to use crimp pins which I would like to use, but I can't seem to find a source or even a name for the type of pin used. The actual pin is a vertical blade type and not the usual round or square contact. Datasheets for connectors don't seem to specify the pins, as they are usual supplied with a set. I don't want to have to buy different connectors just to see if the included pins will work for me. Does anyone have any ideas?
Viability of cheap laser power meter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: reportingsjr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2014, 07:40:04 pm
content: Does anyone know how well these cheap laser power meters work?http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOMTSOOI have a 60W CO2 laser engraver and want to see how much my tube has degraded as well as using it for alignment. These types are much cheaper than digital ones, but seem a bit sketchy.Thoughts?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2014, 09:01:17 pm
content: I have digital laser power meters for CD player repair but you are working with far higher power which makes the item you detailed viable. From what I can see, it is a mechanical thermometer with a laser light absorber attached to the tip. It is responding to the heating effect of the laser. It should work, but how accurate it is I have no idea. These types of thermometer are commonly found in kitchens for checking meat core temperatureRF power meters from Marconi used to have a thermistor or thermocouple based temperature monitoring circuit that responded to the heating effect of the RF energy on the termination. It is much the same idea as the laser power meter your detailed in terms of the principle used.Aurora

author: kripton2035
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2014, 09:07:27 pm
content: one customer from the 200w version seems to be happy with itapart from that...

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2014, 04:20:31 pm
content: Clever little meter. Since the reading is based on the temperature of the block as heated by the absorption of the laser, the accuracy will be affected by ambient temperature, airflow around the detector, and mounting method. You'll want to be sure there isn't a lot of air moving around the detector (which will artificially cool it), that you note the reading on the meter before you start and deduct the 'cold' reading from hot reading, and you'll want to mount or hold it close to the dial rather than the detector (which would artificially cool or heat it, depending on if you have it in, say, a metal bracket, or held in your hand). The digital thermopile based sensors actually have the same sensitivities in principle, but are typically constructed to better reject those influences, and it's easier to zero out initial offsets based on ambient temp. The one you linked is probably okay for what you're looking to do, although the response time will likely be pretty slow which may make using it for alignment tricky. I wouldn't necessarily trust if for precise absolute measurements, but you should certainly be able to do a decent relative measurement with it.If you wind up getting one, I'd be happy to do a side-by-side with a Coherent Powermax LM-20, although all the sources I have to compare with at the moment are visible (450-650nm) and <10W CW, so they may not give an accurate picture of accuracy with IR at ~60W. Just drop me a PM if you want to arrange it.
Teardown: 2 X 100W Class D Audio Amplifier Explorer w Bluetooth - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: happylex
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 12:26:37 pm
content: Hello,I would like to request a tear down of this product:http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=2698I made something a bit similar and I wonder how my design differs from this.Thanks in advance!Edit: I used a small board with an PT2313 + AVR and a Cubieboard 2. I have some boards with PT2313 left over, let me know if you are interested.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2014, 09:51:18 am
content: Here is a datasheet/document for the slightly lower end one without the whizzbang features.http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/AA-AS32181_Ver1.0_EN_.pdf

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2014, 10:06:12 pm
content: aliexpress sellers often include an internal shot, but I didn't see any which were identical model:http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PC-TDA7498-HIFI-Digital-Bluetooth-Amplifier-2-100W-2-2UF-50mA-with-Power-Supply/871150768.htmlhttp://www.aliexpress.com/item/TAS5630D-class-Bluetooth-amplifier-high-power-digital-amplifier-stereo-amplifier/1600796482.htmlhttp://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fx1602s-high-power-digital-amplifier-wireless-bluetooth-belt-tpa6120-amp-bluetooth-amplifier/1474985185.htmlhttp://www.aliexpress.com/item/TAS5630-D-Class-Bluetooth-amplifier-digital-power/1565035057.htmlhttp://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-HIFI-50W-50-W-TDA7492-Bluetooth-Fiber-Coaxial-USB-DAC-decoder-amplifier-with-Power-Adapter/1577277465.html

author: happylex
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2014, 10:28:09 pm
content: Quote from: peter.mitchell on March 11, 2014, 09:51:18 amQuote from: thm_w on March 13, 2014, 10:06:12 pmThank you for the effort guys, but I didn't see what I was looking for yet.

author: bigmetalhead
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 02, 2014, 10:41:25 am
content: Hello happylex,If you're still intrested in the subject, I just both one of these amps and opened it to see what's inside. I have pictures but they are too large to attach all in this post.I can tell you it uses:PIC16F690 microprocessorPT2348-X audio 4.1 sound processor with subwoofer outTTK BTM-68D V4 bluetooth moduleWM8804G S/PDIF Transceiver and CS4334-KS 24-Bit, 96 kHz Stereo D/A Converter for the S/PDIF inputAnd some 8-pin SMD chips that seem like OPAmps.You can leave me a PM with an email address if you want me to send you all the pictures.Hope you'll find this useful.Regards,Florin

author: jazd
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 02, 2014, 02:01:39 am
content: Some more pictures here if anyone is interested -https://plus.google.com/photos/116569598320566361560/albums/6031276831009590705
AmScope SE400 / SE420 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jay
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2014, 03:01:43 pm
content: Any AmScope SE400 or SE420 owners on the forum? Search revealed few posts but not much info. Are these ridiculously cheap stereo microscope any good for hobby electronics use? I would love to hear comments from someone who has used it for a longer period time. Some say the light is really crappy but I guess I could hack an LED light to it like some seem to have done.http://www.amscope.com/lowpower-stereo-boomstand-se400-series-single-arm-stand-stereo-microscopes.htmlhttp://www.amscope.com/lowpower-stereo-boomstand-se420-series-single-arm-stand-stereo-microscopes.htmlLet's see if someone posts "you should get a used Mantis for $10 from Ebay" type of reply.. you just can't discuss low cost new equipment without such a post

author: theatrus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2014, 08:48:25 pm
content: The AmScope line is actually quite good for the price.I have one of thesehttp://www.amscope.com/sm-4tpz.html. I'd suggest a 3x option, to increase the working distance.

author: suicidaleggroll
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2014, 10:34:38 pm
content: I recently purchased an SM-3B-FRL:http://www.ebay.com/itm/400159487189?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D400159487189%26_rdc%3D1I haven't used it a whole lot yet, but it's pretty decent for the price. It's not as easy or comfortable to use as the Meiji in my office, but it's surprisingly not that far behind considering the astronomical price difference.
Edsyn 951 Loner Soldering Stations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Locator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2014, 04:25:13 am
content: Anyone used one of these? I saw the 951SX station and it looks pretty beefy. I believe it has been replaced by the 951SXe station.I would love to hear any feedback on these stations. Are they a better station than a Hakko FX-888D?Anyone know if the 951SXe is an improvement over the 951SX, or just a cost-cut model with lower quality?Thanks.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2014, 12:09:36 pm
content: What an unfortunate name.At least they didn't call it theSX-951

author: Locator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2014, 03:26:00 pm
content: Yep - I can't fathom why they would name it, "Loner".

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2014, 01:57:33 am
content: Quote from: Locator on June 30, 2014, 03:26:00 pmStand alone station for a single user perhaps.Doesn't seem like a big leap to get "Loner" from that IMHO.
AS500 AS501 DELL SoundBar - active speakers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Ertew
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 29, 2014, 12:15:59 pm
content: Hello everybody.I've recently buy set of DELL AS501 active speakers, and of course want to know what is inside.Before do this, I have a question, should post there pictures or there is more adequate thread for do that? Quick search and I only found that thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/wanted-dell-2405fpw-monitor-sercic-manual-or-schematic/msg237433/?#msg237433
PID temperature controller with remote communication - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: austere
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2014, 09:31:00 am
content: Hi guys,I'm looking at some PID controllers on ebay and aliexpress and I've noticed that the cheapest and probably most popular ones is the REX-C100 by RKC Instruments selling for $16USD. Unfortunately, this is a manually operated unit with no form of remote communication like RS232 or RS485. The cheapest and most commonly sold (on Ali Express) unit with remote communication is the Altec PC410 which sells for around $60USD. Unfortunately this unit has poor documentation and has many functions that are unnecessary for simple projects. It's also a tad too large! Do you guys have any suggestions?Cheers.
My $25 Scope and $25 Radio something-something I haven't quite figured out yet. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Jebnor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2014, 01:27:30 am
content: And people say you can't get a scope for $25... pfft. I have a Atten ADS1102CAL already and I just added these beasts to my collection -- A Tektronix 547 4Ch 50MHz Oscilloscope, and a Singer Gertsch FM10CS Frequency meter/ Signal generator. $25CND each. All Manuals were included too. I'm soo excited!!!I nice older man was getting rid of them out of his basement. I happily answered his kijiji (aka. Craigslist Canada) ad and picked them up.They will need a good cleaning, but both seem to be in working order. Well, he said there was an issue with one of the 4 channels on the scope, but, I can handle that for $25.

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2014, 04:05:31 am
content: Geez this sort of dates me but I used an FM10 in the course of my work - a long time ago. I guess you could call it an early communications service monitor. The signal generator of course was useful for testing receiver sensitivity and netting crystal oscillators, the zero center meter for transmitter frequency offset, and the CRT for measuring transmitter FM deviation or AM modulation. By the late 70's/early 80's this unit was overshadowed by the Cushman, Motorola and IFR service monitors that had better specs.But you got a good deal if it works.

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2014, 01:08:35 pm
content: That Singer is very interesting.

author: sfiber
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2014, 01:21:56 pm
content: I do love very old stuff like theese,they have excellent,professional user manuals.I want to see what' inside in scope.
Damaged Tronex side cutters - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: malch
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2014, 03:58:38 pm
content: I bought a Tronex 7082 side cutters.These are Razor Flush with a set screw to set the cutter gap.I took them out of the box and zip-lock bag . I tried them on a small wire. I screwed them up.The cutters came with the set screw turned out [not adjusted] , so the edges scrunched each other.Also the set screw [3-48 x 1/8] was only holding on with one thread when adjusted. I bought ten 3-48 X 3/16" set screws to do it right.There should be a note in the box warning you to adjust the set screw before using.Toying with the idea of sending them back to Tronex for resharpening.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2014, 10:02:01 pm
content: The screw should have been set at the factory, so I'd contact them first before paying them a resharpening fee (request a new pair rather than resharpen).FWIW, I have the same pair, and the screw was set (same with Swanstrom's I have that uses a setscrew). So I suspect you got one that managed to slip through QC.
Re: EEVblog #415 - SMD Stencil Reflow Soldering Tutorial - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: evracp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 13, 2014, 11:44:34 pm
content: Hi,I tried with my gun quick850+ and 5050 package. The sides of the led are burning(getting toasted..black colored). How can i avoid from burning of leds??
Voltcraft VLP 2602 OVP (513865) Power supply circuit diagram needed - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Arrow_85
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 06, 2014, 12:54:06 pm
content: Hello,I looking for circuit diagram of power supply Voltcraft VLP 2602 OVP (0-60V, 2A) if any one can help me.One of two channels is not working.Br,Arrow_85

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2014, 03:29:19 pm
content: Have you set the selection swith to the right setting .

author: Arrow_85
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2014, 06:11:19 pm
content: fluxcapacitor please... ;-)

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2014, 09:14:50 pm
content: well you know i had to ask,i wasnt being funny .

author: Arrow_85
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 09, 2014, 07:45:52 pm
content: Backing to topic...Power supply seems to work well except Output BOver Voltage Protection LED is still turned on from the beginning.It is difficult to find the issue without schematic.
Metcal desolder gun MX DS1 defect? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: oliver602
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 11:21:07 pm
content: Hi,I scored a Metcal DS1 gun on ebay recently and I have a few questions about it.The cartridge (STDC-104) I got with the gun has been butchered to make it fit. Have I got the wrong cartridges or is there a manufacturing defect in this gun? There isn't enough room for the tube on the cartridge to fit into the gun. (the one the solder is sucked through)Does anybody know the thread/fitting size for the air supply port on the back of the gun? I need to clean the threads.

author: oliver602
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2014, 08:23:34 pm
content: I might have to attack it with a small die grinder.
New BNC and banana test leads   -  Suggestions on where to buy. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bob_60
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2014, 02:22:50 pm
content: Sadly I have lost all my old BNC (RG58) and banana plug cables and need to buy new ones.I could buy them from Farnell or DigiKey, but cables these days, are not cheap.Can anyone recommend a seller that sell not to expensive test-leads of reasonable quality.I have looked for anyone that wanted to sell their used cables, but have not found one yet./Bo

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 22, 2014, 02:41:35 pm
content: As far as the banana plug leads, everyone here who knows iloveelectronics here on the forums would recommend him for his leads:http://stores.ebay.com/99centHobbies?_rdc=1

author: KD0CAC John
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2014, 03:19:41 pm
content: To add to the question , what is the level of measuring needed ?I am learning here , so terminology , etc. will likely need correctionWith looking at some threads , links & youtube videos about much lower values to be measured , Dave's micro amp adapter , iloveelectronics micro measuring and robrenz's about making Kelvin clips .As a 8 yrs. now ham radio operator & learning to repair / build , there is a transition - at least in ham radio , still lots of vacuum tube gear out there , let alone the older solid state gear , then surface mount to all chip - SDR Software Defined Radio .With the older stuff having drastically different values , than the chip driven .Like I mentioned , in a hobby that still has lots of activity on all of the about , there seems to be a need for multiple test gear to cover the ranges of values ?Wanting to make a set like robrenz Kelvin leads -Needing to know what level of measuring to be done and then choosing the correct supplies ?

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2014, 05:01:12 pm
content: Distrilec has relatively cheap silicone cables with 4mm stackable banana plugs from Hirschmann. I have lots of these.Reasonable BNC cables:http://www.ebay.com/itm/271114510329http://www.ebay.com/itm/281032666015

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2014, 12:10:52 pm
content: Thanks for the links :-)
solved: HAKKO FR-300 shipping delay for 220/240V users - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gmit77
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 04:04:00 pm
content: I like to close this post as solvedall the next info into the main HAKKO FR-300 pagehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-fr-300-desoldering-tool/---hello there is a slight delay on getting the FR-300 to our stock due to some CE Mark and Safety tests.we will keep this post up to date with the lates informationthanks!
Flux.. LOCTITE PC21A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2014, 09:48:56 pm
content: Anyone know if it's possible to buy LOCTITE PC21A flux in either 500ml or 1Litre bottles please, and if so where?I can get the stuff in 5L bottles from Farnell but that's far too much for my requirements, and £67 is too much to spend if half of it may be wasted due to expiry. Not that I can seehow long it lasts as the datasheet doesn't indicate that. I'm just assuming it's perhaps 1-2 years unopened like many other fluxes?http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1115472TIA guys

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2014, 02:54:03 am
content: Must it be that particular Multicore/Loctite product?If you're just after good quality rosin flux in smaller containers, MG Chemicals sells theirRosin 835 fluxin 125ml and 1L containers. Circuit Specialists carries the smallerRosin 835-100mlsize for ~7GBP.

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2014, 10:35:31 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on June 03, 2014, 02:54:03 amI had seen the MG Chemicals flux and was thinking about that also as its widely used. I've looked for that in the 500ml & 1L sizes also but can only findthe 125ml as you suggest. I know Mouser advertise the 1L tins but unfortunately it's US onlyThink I may just have to either get the 125ml MG Chemicals stuff or bite the bullet for big 5L canThanks anyway

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2014, 11:03:06 am
content: Or resell 0.5 or 1 litre bottles?

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2014, 11:04:11 am
content: Quote from: neslekkim on June 03, 2014, 11:03:06 amThat had crossed my mindThanks mate.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2014, 09:01:09 pm
content: Quote from: orbiter on June 03, 2014, 11:04:11 amFWIW, I found the 1L size on ebay.co.uk from a US seller (here). Price is the same as anywhere else here in the US, and even with shipping tacked on, it still appears to be a decent deal to me (not sure with VAT and customs tacked on, assuming worst case though).If you were after no-clean, there's a .5L size of Warton 315 (here).Couple of options if you don't want to buy a larger container and split it up for sale, or can't find someone else that's done it and hit the BIN button.Although a little less convenient, another option might be arrange for a group buy here with other EU/UK members (already know who's getting what, so no need to sit on it and wait for buyers <lower risk & recover funds faster IMHO>).

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2014, 10:13:29 pm
content: Thanks bud ;-) ordered the 1L from the US.Cheers

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2014, 10:32:52 pm
content: Quote from: orbiter on June 03, 2014, 10:13:29 pmYou're welcome.I think you'll be happy with it, it's good stuff IME. There's no expiration date on it, and it will last you a long time stored indoors (cool dry place).
ltspice bug? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: AlfBaz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2014, 10:33:26 pm
content: Looking for a sanity check regarding the attached ltspice circuit.I don't know if its a problem with the program, tline model or limited swap space/memory on my pc (I have 16G but on my 32bit OS windows tells me ony 3.5G is usable)If I manually change the values for Zo and Td and do a normal single run everything works fineIf I step Zo, after about 3 or 4 runs it attempts to load data from the disk repeatedly, taking longer and longer with each run until the status bar and waveform display flicker endlesslyIf I step Td I get a flat output on all runsI have tried ".options plotwinsize 0" in case data compression was causing issues but it made no difference aside from making Zo stepping worseFor the attached file change .txt to .asc

author: AlfBaz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2014, 10:52:03 pm
content: Never mind... I'm an idiotChanged .step param TDelay 1 10 1 to 1n 10n 1n and all is good
Battery charger 18650, do NOT turn it on, TAKE IT APART! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Mr Simpleton
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 01, 2014, 07:41:14 pm
content: This is a mains charger for two 18650 Li Ion batteries. This was included in a head lamp package along with two batteries. As the price was OK, $16 including shipping, I ordered two. Now for the record, both lamps were non-working, and I had to do some soldering to get them to operate. Batteries seems fine, once I cleaned the contacts, which leaves us with the charger.

author: Mr Simpleton
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 01, 2014, 07:42:54 pm
content: Now lets crack this sucker open....Notice the not so nice 220 VAC wires

author: Mr Simpleton
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 01, 2014, 07:50:00 pm
content: Check the 22uF capacitor in the lower middle... looks more like 22nF to meNot sure if it is supposed to have diodes in bridge rectifying, but to me it looks like one diode and a resistor! And the 0.5 ohm "safety" thing who needs that??As this is a multi-voltage apparatus, they kindly supplies an adapter for 240 VAC. Now look at the pins....And why shold the 117 VAC input have different sizes??Never mind, not sure why I need to read the text though:"Before using make sure the voltage 6A 125-250V" (sic!)This one goes into the bin...

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2014, 07:58:49 pm
content: Best of one hung low safety........... Might work if you keep it on a non flammable surface, far away from anything that can burn.

author: Mr Simpleton
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 01, 2014, 08:01:38 pm
content: So I thought... should be OK if you do not touch it while using, still, looking at the PCB makes me a worried... Look at the Out+ to the battery and notice the proximity to mains. This is no fun anymore, it looks more like something that could electrocute the user.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2014, 12:28:05 pm
content: Looks fine to me... in any case are you really going to be touching the terminals in there while it's plugged in? You're supposed to insert/remove the cells on these with it not plugged in.The '3582 charging IC goes under various names, with different variants having slightly different voltages (anyone know if this is a copy of some western design?):http://www.hotchip.com.cn/DownFiles/20120523102410595.pdfhttp://wenku.baidu.com/view/ec5128718e9951e79b89272c.htmlhttp://www.chip-source.cn/UploadFile/20081217181320707974638.pdfhttp://www.fullmany.com/Upload/file/TC3582(1).pdfhttp://www.ic-fortune.com/upload/Download/FS3582-DS-11_SC.pdfIt's a slow charger, 200-400mA at most.If you're paranoid about safety, you should be more concerned with the 18650s themselves.
Product teardown: Fluke 8000A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: reagle
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 06, 2012, 02:35:12 am
content: A few days ago while at a local Hamfest I picked up a few old multimeters. One was a Fluke 8000A. Seeing how it's been opened already and was missing front overlay, I did not have high hopes for it working. That turned out to be the case. I did end up with a nice selection of pretty pictures and a few rants to share:http://kuzyatech.com/fluke-8000a-teardown-and-repair-attempt

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2012, 04:10:04 am
content: A couple of things.That edge connector is not a debugpprt. It brings out the display row and column lines. A lot of 70's vintage equipment did that. There was a board you could plug on to this to give you the bcd coded data of the display. Used for hookup to line printers or early computers. Gpib was still very much HPIB and HP only... So they provided access to the display datastream. Some spare comtacts of the switches were brought out as well so you could read what range and function the meter was set at.There is indeed beauty in those silver mica capacitorsThe orange thing is not a mov. Simple ceramic high voltage disc capacitorThe mica resistor is a current sens resistor it has two copper terminals bent un u- shape on both sodes with a constatane or wolfram wire between them. It is in essence a kelvin connection precision rThe 'nice wire' is also a current sense resistor for low range. It is soldered to the switch pin on one side and sits , soldered, in a sleeve in the other side. The trimming is simply done by melting the solder and pushing or pulling the resistor in the sleeve.Judging from the logo on the chips they were made by siliconix. There is a possibility you can find these... But probably at a price tenfold over what you paid for the meter.Nice teardown. I like the 'artsy' photography.

author: reagle
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 06, 2012, 04:23:32 am
content: Thanks for the wealth of information and your kind words. These old instruments are beautiful to look at and artsy pictures come out with very little effort!Will check my facts next time a bit better though- all I had to do was look at the schematic a bit more and I'd be able to tell what some of these more unusual things were

author: DmitryL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2014, 01:05:24 pm
content: Quote from: reagle on July 06, 2012, 04:23:32 amAre you still looking for these custom Fluke 8000A chips ? I recently bought the same multimeter type out of curiousity on a car boot sale.It appeared that it has LED indicators missing, some tracks correded, etc. Thus, it doesn't make any sense to repair it. If you want, I can send these chips to you.Sending whole thing might cost a lot, I think...
ixgr40n60 on Ebay? IGBT - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 06:57:53 am
content: So I need IXGR40N60C2D1's for my induction stove top, I see them sold on Ebay fairly cheap from china.Is it a good idea to buy these parts off Ebay from china for a high load application as a induction stove top? how are chinese IGBTs in general? Its a fair amount of work to replace them all, and I have a bad feeling that I will be playing whack a mole with chinese parts.. not the greatest when you need to make breakfast...is there anyone trustworthy to get this part from? or a good alternative on digikey?how close of a specification part do I need to find if I seek to find a replacement so that it will likely work in a induction stove design? they originally blew up because of a misuse of the stove

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 07:17:04 am
content: Check out the sellers feedback and number of sales.Dont touch them if it's crap or they're a new seller

author: rauloliv
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2014, 09:19:17 am
content: Would only take that chance if i coudnt get the part anywere else.Farnell has on stock:IXGR40N60B2IXGR40N60B2D1IXGR40N60C2
MJE15028 vs MJe15030 vs MJE15032 (and MJE15029, 031 and 033) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2014, 02:00:44 pm
content: The above transistors have same case (TO-220), same wattage, and the same characteristics except the Vce which differs greatly - 120V, 150V and 250V.So my question is how is the Vce determined? Is it a physical factor, ie the distance between two areas of the silicon, the greater the distance the higher the Vce? And if the physical characteristics must be different how come all the other attributes are the same?Practically, which ones should I choose, if 120V is more than enough than what I need? Will the 120V do a better job than the 250V somehow, since I cannot detect any differences other than Vce? Or should I just use any of them interchangeably?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2014, 04:44:34 pm
content: That is a function of the manufacturing process, and during final test the devices are binned according to the tested voltage that they have a low enough leakage. A voltage is applied and the leakage current is measured. If the device say exceeds the leakage at 150V it might be fine at 120V, so is binned for there, if it is fine at 150V it will be tested again at 250v and if the leakage is still low it is a 250V part, if more then it is a 150V part.If they run low on the bottom end and have a need for them then often the higher voltage parts will be substituted as they meet the specs, as it will meet the spec. You might find them also graded into gain groups as well.

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2014, 01:42:10 pm
content: That would apply to other components eg the 1N400x series which in the same package goes from 50V to 400V or even 800V?
304MHz Modules - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ludzinc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 03:28:48 am
content: Hi'Back when I was a lad' you used to be able to source 304MHz tx / rx modules (it seems that Australia is a bit unique in the use of that frequency) for short range RF links (like garage door openers and such).These days 433MHz seems the rage, and that's fine for new projects.At the moment I'm trying to support a (really crappy) old design that uses it's own 304MHz Rx and I'd prefer to buy a COTS (Commercial Off The Shelf) module and use that. However, I can't seem to find any.Is my Google-fu lacking, and some one who knows better able to point the way? Or has 304 MHz stuff really gone the way of the Dodo?Cheers,Simon

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 05:07:16 am
content: Yeah,304 MHz used to be the Oz standard for such things,but importers saw that they could buy 433 MHz ones made for the European market, dirt cheap.They "spat the dummy",jumped up & down & yelled (after all,it worked for the "CB-ers",so why not!!),until ACMA (or their predecessor),rolled over & let the horrible things in,setting up the "Low Interference Potential Devices" category."Low Interference" my butt!--hundreds of thousands of these things add up to a lot of potential for interference,as the Hams discovered when their 70cm Repeaters would be permanently keyed up.Ultimately,Hams, being "smarter than the average bear", got around this by changing the input frequencies to above rather than below the Repeater outputs,using CTCSS,etc,but it is still a sore point that the Regulatory Authority can be over-ridden by political pressure.You may be battling to find a 304 MHz module as the other ones are so cheap,nobody would bother using them----maybe N.O.S.?Or ,another thought:My 1999 Camry uses 304 MHz for the remote locking--maybe pick up some old car remotes & eviscerate them?

author: AlfBaz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 05:24:21 am
content: A little on the expensive side and would most likely require hacking but I typed 304Mhz into ebay and these security access devices use 304Mhzhttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ness-Radio-Repeater-304MHz-Wireless-Suits-all-Ness-Panels-Tax-Receipt-/170815548975?pt=AU_Home_Personal_Security&hash=item27c5666e2f
Garmin D2 Pilot Watch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Dane Bear
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 03:26:17 am
content: Is there any other pilots out there that has used the Garmin D2 watch? Did it work well for you? I am wanting to buy one but not sure how they work in the real world.

author: TVman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 03:28:36 am
content: Sadly, I have never seen one or touched one.Good Luck getting one too!Hunor
Printer won't turn on, need some advice. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2014, 02:49:18 pm
content: I recently found this Samsung ML-1915 laser printer while dumpster diving. At first glance it looked a bit dusty on the outside but the inside looks like new and the toner cartridge seems to be new too. The problem is that it has a soft power on/off switch which doesn't seem to work, i've already tested the controller board and the power supply and they look like they're in a perfect condition ( no blown fuses or damaged traces ) the wires are good too. I still haven't checked the power outputs of the PSU since my DMM won't measure voltage anymore. Maybe there's a way to bypass the soft on/off button and put a big clunky power switch. It seems like this printer was never turned on since it's so clean and the toner cartridge still had the original sticker on it's contacts. Maybe it could be that the CPU is faulty, no firmware, or something else?Thanks in advance.

author: daveshah
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 26, 2014, 03:16:45 pm
content: Have you tested that the button itself is working?If your DMM's continuity/resistance tester isn't working, you can always test the switch with a battery and buzzer or LED+resistor.

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2014, 03:46:16 pm
content: The problem with my DMM is that whenever i try to measure the voltage it just gives me false readings other than that everything else is fine. I'll check the buttons to see i they work.