Project glue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Mint.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2012, 03:25:06 am
content: Hey guys what do you use to glue on components onto your project boxes? I am currently deciding on what glue to use for glueing a small/surface mount switch onto a piece of plastic.Any suggestions would be appreciated

author: aluck
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2012, 04:22:15 am
content: Quote from: Mint. on January 26, 2012, 03:25:06 amHot Melt Glue Gun, anyone?..

author: sonicj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2012, 05:37:14 am
content: if i want it to be permanent,JB Weld.temporary or serviceable, i use hot glue or shoe goo-sj.

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 26, 2012, 08:20:41 am
content: Dear Mint:--I routinely use supper glue to glue broken plastic back together, sometimes to hold them together long enough for JB Weld to set up. I use JB Weld (which is electrically non-conductive) for repairs and to anchor thing in place. I recently repaired a friends base speaker from his computer speaker set up. The One Hung Low, cheap hold down goop had let go and allowed the board to be pushed inside the box where the jacks could not reach. See attached pictures below. It being a super cheap unit, there is no need to worry about future repairs to the PCB. A separation in the bezel was repaired using supper glue. The label was reattached using Shoe Goo. Shoe Goo by the way, cures almost instantly as opposed to silicone which need 24 hours. Shoe Goo is also easier to clean up. I have not yet tested Shoe Goo for conductivity.--The Apple Airport Router SMPS was reported as having no output. I checked it. It was putting out 12 V no problem. I opened it up (ugly), and could find no obvious problems, so I sealed it back up with electrical silicone. I will now test it against a dummy load and if (as I suspect) it goes off line I will reopen (easy with silicone) and replace the caps. See attached picture.--I also use silicone to hold things down. See picture below of an SMPS for a Trutech PVS31170S1 LCD TV + DVD. The caps have been moved to cooler places and silicone is used to keep them from wandering. The TV (a dumpster find) is now working and I will post more when project is finished.--In short you need all kinds of glue. I even have fabric epoxy in stock. No doubt there are other glues that I will acquire in the future."Business is never so healthy as when, like a chicken, it must do a certain amount of scratching around for what it gets."Henry Ford 1863 - 1947Best RegardsClear Ether

author: sonicj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2012, 12:36:31 pm
content: careful with the RTV's & silicone adhesives.... if the product has a vinegary smell to it, its a good indication that its corrosive.-sj

author: Balaur
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 26, 2012, 01:15:40 pm
content: For permanent fixtures, I'm mostly using two-part epoxy progressive glue (Araldite when it's for a good cause or a cheap generic otherwise). I like the strength and the intrinsic resiliency to chemicals, water and so on.For temporary/flexible stuff I'm using hot glue: cheap and cheerful.I've also developed a liking for contact adhesives (neoprene) but also strong, two-sided adhesive tapes. Both of these are very useful in a lot of cases.Otherwise, some filler may also come in hand from time to time.I don't use crazy/super glue too much since it always seems to either harden in the container or develop some plug that will make you force it and spew it all over the counter. Plus, I really don't really like the white residues or the finish.Cheers,Dan

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2012, 01:26:54 pm
content: Quote from: sonicj on January 26, 2012, 12:36:31 pmOxygen sensor safe silicone is available at your local auto supply store and electrical grade silicones are available at most electronic suppliers. Just dont use the garden variety on electronics.

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 26, 2012, 02:26:51 pm
content: Greetings EEVBees:--I readily agree about silicone sealant. That is why I specified silicone for electronics. But I see now that I only specified electronic silicone the first time I mentioned it. My error. If you are using electronic silicone for an electronics repair job, do not switch to not-electronic silicone for the next electronics repair job. Use that stuff for windows. See attached pictures.--I also agree about the Super Glue, but sometimes it is the only thing. I have had good luck using a toothpick to plug the small tube of Gorilla Super Glue I am using. Surprisingly, I have been able to get the toothpick out and use the tube repeatedly."If you build a better mousetrap, you will catch better mice."George Gobel 1919 1991Best RegardsClear Ether

author: sonicj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2012, 05:02:41 am
content: I like that Gorilla rubberized CA. It has a thick consistency, gives plenty of work time and isn't brittle.Loctite 380is the bomb if you don't mind a 2nd mortgage.JB Weld also makes a 4min quick set epoxy that is quite handy. Speaking of which... A quick story re: JB Weld. I was repairing something and accidently mixed the JB Quick Steel with the regular JB Weld Hardener. I emailed the customer service address listed on the site and asked what should be expected of the resulting bond. Woke up the next morning with a detailed message in my inbox from the GM of the company! That sort of customer service experience seems to be pretty rare these days...-sj

author: RCMR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2012, 05:42:52 am
content: I'm actually working on a video all about how glues work and which adhesive is best for which material.Suffice to say that plastics are one of the harder materials to glue to -- because there are so many different types of plastics with different properties.I'll try to get a hurry on with the video :-)

author: Zad
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2012, 06:04:20 am
content: One of the problems with Cyanoacrylates is that they can fog transparent plastics. Initially it seems fine but over days/weeks/months near by transparent plastics fog over.

author: Mint.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2012, 08:53:28 am
content: Quote from: RCMR on January 27, 2012, 05:42:52 amHello RCMR can you please keep us notified in this post, thank you