AIM-TTi LD400P Teardown and Voltage Reconfiguration from 230V to 115V - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 04:52:19 pm
content: We all love to see teardowns of TE gear, so here's a picture tour of a teardown with a twist. I need to reconfigure my unit from 230V to 115V, so why not record and share the process. I wish I'd seen someone's reconfig first, then I'd know what equipment and accessories I might need, which helps to visualize and plan the project better. Anyway, it's done, in my own way. So, here goes..My new AIM TTi LD400P arrived. But, can't plug it in yet.Out of the box, it's configured for 230V, but electricity in my area is nominally 120V.However, according to the manufacturer, the LD400P can work with either 230V or 115V.There are instructions provided in the "LD400P Instruction Manual" on re-configuring the unit.There are 3 screws on each side of the unit that need to be removed.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 05:21:42 pm
content: But at the bottom, there are no screws that need to be touched.With lots of holes all around about, the air comes and goes wherever it will.Without the 6 screws, the cover lifts up and off easily.The Power Supply PCB is revealed on the Operator's right hand side of the unit.A huge heat sink sits plumb in the middle of the unit.There are 3 independent PCB's on the right side. The largest one is the Power Supply PCB, with the pair of Transformers.While 2 smaller PCB's sit near the back panel, stacked close together, the smallest one behind the other.A giant "air cage" sits in front the intake fan, preventing any obstuctions from reducing airflow.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 05:34:35 pm
content: Air flows through the heat sink, and out the back via a fan grille.The pair of Red and Black "80A rated" back inputs sit on top the grille.Any current higher than 30A, must use these back input connectors. The front inputs are only rated up to 30A.The front panel is held off from the heat sink cage by a cross bar.The manufacturer decided to use metal screws instead of the obvious design "plastic rivets" on one end.Looks like a last minute change. Differs from pics in another teardown here on eevblog.I don't particularly like these metal screws. They've shed a lot of "silver metal dust" as they were screwed in.Doesn't show well in the photo. But, a spatter of metalic dust from the screws were on the top of the black fan.Also, why not use "machine screws"? Why wood screw format for metal bond?

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 05:41:39 pm
content: A 4th PCB can be seen hidden in the narrow channel at the right side of the large heat sink.And a 5th PCB, similar to this, appears on the corresponding narrow channel on the left side of the large heat sink.A 6th and a 7th PCB attach behind the inside front panel.By blowing up the photo, you can see some of the "silver metallic dust" debris on top the black fan.Amazing it stuck there, even while the unit was transported about. Probably electrostatic cling.A final 8th PCB, the Controller Board, is found on the Operator's left hand side on the LD400P.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 05:50:49 pm
content: A close up view of the Controller Board.Looking down the side of the Transformers, near the HRC 500mA FUSE, are the various Links, LK1-LK6, that need to be changed.This Power Supply PCB needs to be removed, to access the Links, and re-configure the unit from 230V to 115V.For those who like Capacitors, there's Samwa, Jamicon, and even CapXon used on the PCB.===...===

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 05:58:53 pm
content: I didn't do a thorough Capacitor Brand check, to record all brands used.But, at least these 3 brands mentioned appear on the larger caps.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 06:04:34 pm
content: Now there are 5 machine screws and nuts with spiked washers that hold the Power Supply PCB firmly down.One bolt is in the middle of the PCB, near the junction between the two transformers.And the other 4 bolts are near the four corners of the PCB.The nut at the bottom right in the photo has some pink goo to mark it as sealed from the factory.Then there are 6 Connectors that attach to this PCB that need to be un-clipped before removing the board.We have 3 of the connectors, 2 white and 1 blue, in the neighborhood of the nut with pink goo.Another 1 connector, white in color with red and black leads, sits near the bottom transformer.And finally, the remaining 2 connectors, one with blue wire and one with brown wire, are near the HRC 500mA FUSE.So, in total, there are 6 connectors that have to be unplugged to free the board.Of these 6 connectors, 4 are rather easy to remove. They unplug with little effort.These are the 4 connectors shown near the bottom right of the PCB as seen in the photo above.Then there are the remaining 2 connectors, one with blue wire and one with brown wire, near the HRC 500mA FUSE.These are rather difficult to remove. After tugging a bit on them from this position, I decided not to try to remove them, yet.I couldn't see how they were attached, whether they were soldered down, or could be unplugged, but they were rather firm in there.Since I couldn't gauge what type of force I could use to pull them out, I needed a better vantage point to see what was going on,so I decided to leave them in, until I could lift up the board and take a closer look.I started with the easy things first. Working from the edge of the board with the pink goo.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 06:15:35 pm
content: The 4 connectors on this end of the PCB unplugged without a fuss.I just need to remember what plugs in where. These photos help record the process.But the plugs and sockets are also keyed, and lengths of wire cables reach only theright spots. So, it's not too hard to reverse the operation here, even without photo reminders.The remaining 2 connectors, near HRC 500mA FUSE, will need to stay in for now.I just need to note that the brown wire is nearest to the FUSE, since these two connectors are similarand wire lengths can easily reach either position. So, here we have to pay attention.Next up, we take off the nuts. The spiked washers are fixed onto the bottom of the nuts.So, the whole thing comes off as one unit. Here we tried both "7/32-inch Imperial" and "5.5mm Metric"hex nut driver fittings, and they both work well, with the metric giving a slightly tighter fit.Out of our kit of both Imperial and Metric hex drivers, we found either the Imperial 7/32-inch or Metric 5.5mm hexto conveniently fit the PCB nuts.So, we have disconnected the connectors which we could, and removed the 5 nuts. But, the PCB is still stuck, unable to move.There are 5 black cable ties holding the cabling down, that prevent the PCB from lifting up easily.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 06:57:46 pm
content: Two of the black cable ties are right in front near the 4 connectors that un-plug without effort.These are not so much the problem, as the other 3 cable ties near the backpanel, which aren't shown in the pic here.But, all the 5 cable ties have to come off, anyway. They all obstruct the movement of the PCB in some way.Trying to get some light in there to see the problem better.Ok. Shining some light in the dark area reveals 2 of the 3 black cable ties that obstruct movement.They tie down the brown and blue wires, and sit right up against the backpanel of the LD400P.The 3rd of the 3 backpanel black ties can be seen on the other side of the transistor heat sink.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 07:05:42 pm
content: Better lighting, shows the 3rd cable tie clearer.These cable ties go right through special holes in the metal casing, which is why they don't budge.Using our utility knife, we cut the back of the cable ties, to free the cables from the casing.All clear. We have movement. Light shines through the cable tie holes, as we remove them.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 07:12:09 pm
content: Here they are. The 3 musketeers, holding up progress.The 2 black cable ties in the front are also removed, these cables are also free.PCB can be lifted at last.Here are the 2 culprits from the front cables.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 07:19:21 pm
content: Houston, we have lift off!Well, not so fast. The blue and brown cables limit how far we can move the PCB.We rest the board on the edge of the case to take a closer look at the troublesome connectors.Still not so clear, whether they are soldered in, or able to be unplugged.Taking another view.Ok. Now, holding the PCB upside down, with the transformers resting peacefully in the palm of one handand the fingers grasping the edges of the PCB, we begin to tug the connector with blue wire using other hand.Gently, rocking from side to side while pulling down, the connecter reveals itself to be just a plug and a socket after all !Of course, PCB had to be rested back down on the case to take this photo. But, you get the idea.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 07:27:40 pm
content: Eureka! The tough connector gives way, and comes loose.With technique now mastered, removing other connector is a piece of cake.Looking around.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 07:33:21 pm
content: With the Power Supply PCB completely removed, we look around the unit from a few angles.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 07:39:16 pm
content: And here is the result of all that effort. A completely separated Power Supply PCB.Ready to be worked on.First up, we take a look at the section with the Links.We have 6 potential links, marked with silk screen text: LK1, LK2, LK3, LK4, LK5, LK6.Lk2 and LK5 are populated from the factory with zero ohm resistors, to set the configuration for 230V.This 230V is consistent with what is marked at the back of the LD400P case itself, just near the mains input port.Turning the PCB over, and looking underneath, we find lots of gunk left over from the last board wash.I resisted the urge to remove the gunk using isopropyl alcohol and a brush, because I wasn't sure whetherthis was an additional layer of protection deliberately put there by the manufacturer, or if they were justbeing too cheap to remove the residue. If the factory thought it was ok, then maybe it is. Who knows?Anyway, it did make it really difficult to take good photos of the underside of this PCB, because of all the glareand scattered light.I tried lots of photo angles. Then gave up.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 07:46:55 pm
content: Ok. So here is the little monster we have to deal with.Propped up on some Bostik Blu Tack to give it a little different photo angle.Focusing on the region of interest. The links section.Another Angle.A close up.Looking back at the caps.A slant shot.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 07:52:12 pm
content: Moving on. We remove the HRC 500mA FUSE. To get more clearance for removing and replacing parts.And at the same time we check the FUSE with a multimeter, and confirm, yep, it's a short circuit. It's good.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 07:59:01 pm
content: Now it's down to business. What I have on hand is a HAKKO 808 Desoldering Tool. This will have to do.It's a mite powerful, bit of a brute. But, it never fails. It just might be a bit rough for this type of work.I promise myself I'll be gentle.In the background is the really famous reusable sticky putty, the Bostik Blu Tack.I have another brand of sticky putty called Fun-Tak from LePage, but it's a bit more oily, and I wasn't sureabout it's heat resistance. The Blu Tack plays well with soldering jobs. So, that's the one I'm using here.About 1/2 pound, which I find a convenient lump for various miscellaneous work.In the upper left corner is the polyplastic case I keep the Blu Tack in, to keep dust off the putty when not in immediate use.This plastic box has a very convenient size for the 1/2 pound of putty.It's a "Nude Food Movers Snack Box 20545", 250 ml Polyproplyene Plastic Snack Box - with Blue Rubber Feet.It fits the mood and the theme of the sticky putty quite well.Although, I can't imagine why anyone would want to use the word "Nude" for the name of a food container. Go figure.Sure enough, the HAKKO 808 makes quick work of the desoldering job.The two zero ohm resistors are freed from bondage to the PCB, removed from link locations: LK2 and LK5.Checking the underside of the board, we see two pairs of clean holes left by the removed parts.And, hurrah! No pads lifted. Although, the brute of a desoldering tool, the HAKKO 808 did remove a bitof Green Solder Mask at the side of one of the pads, exposing raw copper there.So, here's the problem with the HAKKO 808. It's heavy, bulky, and awkward. So, it's hard to keep the toolperfectly steady, and on point, without sliding off the pad to nearby space.Also, this particular PCB has some very small pads. So, the slightest slip with the tool, skates it offto the side ripping some Green Solder mask off. And I did all the tricks I'm aware of.I added some fresh flux core solder to the pads to increase the heat transfer to melt to solder already there more quickly.This reduces the dwell time, with the desoldering tool.And then sucked the new and old solder up with the HAKKO 808 suction pump. So, the job was quick.And mostly tidy. Still, the bulky tool slipped off the pad and took some Green to solder heaven.Now, if I had a "Solder Mask Repair Pen" handy, one dot on the board could fix this. But, I didn't have any.It's a small spot. Still, it's nice to get things done right. So, I'll just have to fix up this later. For now, it will do.Incidentally, I now have more appreciation for DeSoldering Stations.They are not any more powerful than my HAKKO 808, just more convenient to handle.Having the vacuum pump separate from the handpiece, makes the handpiece more easy to manage.And that can make a big difference, just because of the controllability of the tool, in the hand of the artist.Well, a good desoldering station is next up on my list of tools to get. I'd been putting it off,because the HAKKO 808 can do almost anything, except play nice on tiny pads on sensitive PCBs.I wonder why the manufacturer didn't think to put "larger pads" on the "LINKS", given that this would make it easierfor the user to change the configuration from 230V to 115V and back, without worry about ripping the Green Solder Maskthat otherwise sits so close to the component leads. Hmmm..oversight? It is a user configurable unit, after all.I don't think any manufacturer should create a product that only those with the most sophisticated equipmentcan re-configure. Since, making things easier to re-configure obviously increases sales, when anybody can do itwith simple tools.On with the task. So, we need to find 4 links to replace the 2 links we removed.But, the manufacturer gave no instructions on the gauge of wire the links must have.What current flows in these links?Next best workaround, is simply measure the gauge of wire the factory used for the existing links.The Mitutoyo 293-335-30 Digimatic Micrometer says the diameter of the wire on the zero ohm resistors is 0.574mm.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 08:09:28 pm
content: We have no spare zero ohm resistors on hand.But, we did have some copper wire from telephone cabling in our junk box.And we had tinning compound, used to re-tin worn soldering tips. So, why not make some links?Unfortunately, our micrometer says the diameter of our copper wire is only 0.496mm.Maybe it would work, but again, we don't know for sure. Best not to use thinner wire than the factory did.So, we abandon this idea.Well, the factory used what looked like 1/4-watt resistors for it's zero ohm links.So, what about borrowing part of the leads from some 1/4-watt resistors?Here the micrometer gives us a favorable reading, diameter measures 0.627mm.This is larger than the factory's 0.574mm, so it'll definitely work. Thicker is better, when current is unknown.With our HAKKO 808 desoldering tool, we clear all the holes of their protective solder, in preparation.Holding the PCB up to the light, all 6 pairs of holes for the LINKS are confirmed clear, light shines through.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 08:15:33 pm
content: We need 4 links. We already have 2, from the removed zero ohm resistors. We can resuse these.And just add 2 more links. So, we use the zero ohm resistor to measure out the bend in the wire required.And, viola! We have all 4 links we need for the work. Two 1/4-watt resistors sacrificed a portion of their leads,from one side only of each resistor, so they could still be usefully employed in other projects.We often have to cut these long leads anyway, in fitting components. So, nothing lost, really.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 10:24:17 pm
content: Now for the sensitive job, on these tiny pads, we pull out the JBC T245-C fitted with a C245-768 1.5mm chisel tip.Gearing up in preparation for the work.In the photo shoot is the JBC DIT-1D Solder Station with T245-C Handpiece.At the back is a plastic bottle with distilled water for wetting the sponge.JBC insists we use only distilled water on their solder tips, to prevent accumulationof tap water mineral deposits on the tips, which can reduce thermal transfer in soldering jobs.Providing the optics is the Donegan Optivisor headband fitted with 5-diopter lens, which is most comfortable for me.The utility knife is a standard Stanley No.199, and the screwdriver is an old Fuller Switch-A-Bit 9-in-1 Dial.The ESD Mat is the "ELME 157CUT 4060 BLUE" which is about 16" x 24". The main feature is "no smell."Someone on the eevblog forum mentioned that ELME has little or no odor, so I decided that was the mat for me.I have a terrible chemical sensitivity, and can't stand any prennially present odors.This mat is fine. It really has no smell. Well, the back of the mat has a slight odor. But, you must put your noseright up to the mat to smell it. And when the mat is in the upright position, as shown, you can't smell anything.I got just the mat alone, not the kit. It came with 3 10mm studs installed, although the listing said 2 studs.Also, the studs were very loose, as if they were installed in a hurry. They had to be tapped tight before the matwould function as it should.Underneath the ELME Mat is a 18" x 24" Green Self-healing cutting mat, used for other projects, so it's not really part of this job.I just usually store the Green mat under the ESD mat for convenience. Swapping out mats to meet the current needs.Under the green mat is another swappable surface, a 24" x 48" x 1/8" thick hardboard, that's smooth on one side,and corregated on the other side, for different applications. All these sit on top of a 24" x 48" x 3/4" thickMDF board, on an On-Stage KS7350 stand. So, it's a completely portable workstation. Anyway, that's the current setup.I decide to put the zero ohm resistors in links: LK1 and LK4.While, the newly made wire lead links go in: LK3 and LK6.Links Lk2 and LK5 must remain empty for the new 115V configuration.Of course, I could have made all 4 links new, using wire jumpers for all positions.However, reusing the factory installed zero ohm resistors helps to remind us what gauge wire the manufacturerconsidered suitable for the links.Besides, the whole point of Desoldering tools is to help recover and reuse components.And we can always restore the LD400P to it's original 230V setting with it's original links if required.Then we turn to Blu Tack once more. This time to hold the components in place, for soldering.Sticky Putty has many uses. The Blu Tack brand handles soldering heat just fine.Turning over the PCB, we examine the work to be done.We have to solder 4 pairs of pads, and add some solder to the other 2 pairs of empty pads for protection.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 10:35:07 pm
content: Soldering done. Turning over the PCB we find, after removing the Blu Tack, that lots of little crumbsof blu tack have been left stuck on the PCB. I forgot to take a pic to illustrate. However,they are easily brushed off the PCB and components. I couldn't find my usual ESD Brush, so I usedthe PACE Fiber Tool fitted with a new Fibre Brush instead, which worked really well.This is the old style Pace-1100-0232 made with genuine aluminum metal. It's just an old style chalk holder.I prefer this to the new version of the same PACE Fibre tool, because the newer one looks likeit uses the modern "Aluminum Alloy" instead of true Aluminum. It has become the fashion these days,to use "simulated metals" in products, that have the look and feel of metals, but lack all the propertiesof real metals. For example, "simulated aluminum" is not electrically conductive, while true aluminum is.But, that's a story for another time.Examining the back of the PCB, we see all solder points are done.I added too much solder, in my over zealous attempt to be sure.Hence, didn't get the nice concave meniscus you're supposed to aim for.So the convex bulge picks up the green color of the solder mask and scatters that green light to the camera.I don't actually have "Green Solder". That's just the mirror effect, which oddly enough, only shows up in the camera.To the naked eye, the solder just looks shiny. It doesn't look green at all. Weird.The exact same solder is used for all 6 pairs of pads, and done at the same time. Yet, the middle pairs,where I added protective solder on the pads that held the original zero resistors, are just as shiney as the restof the soldering on the board, while the new pads that have wire leads in them are now dark green.And even appear to merge in with the Solder mask, as if Green Solder Mask was placed on top of the work, as a final touch!Part of this has to do with how small these solder pads are. So, it's harder to get the concave meniscus on them.Still, not winning any hand soldering competitions on this job.I know the judges will criticize me, but as long as the board works, I'm fine with this result.Remembering to put back in the HRC 500mA FUSE.Time for re-assembly.Need some cable ties. Didn't have any ESD safe black cable ties on hand.So, I decided to use what I had; white plastic cable tie labels.I use these for all my cables, to tag both ends of each cable with a mark,so I can identify which cable is which in a cable jumble.They are not the best quailty. I've been using them for years. They last about 5 years.After which they get brittle, crack, and break at slightest touch. Then, have to be replaced.But, as a temporary solution, they'll work fine, until I can locate and source some better quality ESD cable ties.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 10:45:32 pm
content: First, we need to remove the label tag.With the Stanley No.199 Utility knife, and a small cutting board from the dollar store,to protect our prescious ELME ESD mat, we get to work.Now we've made all 5 new white cable ties, to replace the 5 black cable ties.Incidentally, the white cable tie labels come in a bag of sets of 100 or 200, like this, sold by many Chinese ebay sellers.They are readily available, and very low prices, and usually FREE shipping !Often called "Zip Tie Cable Labels".

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 10:53:57 pm
content: It's time to re-install the Power Supply PCB. We examine the unit to plan re-assembly.Reversing our steps, we first put the PCB on top the case, right where we did, to detach the connectors before.And, now re-attach those 2 tough connectors, remembering that the "Brown Wire" goes next to the HRC 500mA FUSE.Now we can set the Power Supply PCB back down in it's position, making sure all wire cables are above the PCB,and none are trapped underneath.In it's seated position, however, it's not possible to insert the cable ties. So, we need to lift it off slightly.Lifting the PCB, and moving it forward a bit, gently resting it back down on the bolts, we can access the tie holes.Now we insert the 2 cable ties in the front. Remembering which cables go into the ties, and which don't.

author: technogeeky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 10:59:44 pm
content: Well, this has been ... comprehensive. Thank you!

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 11:03:51 pm
content: You're welcome. A few more posts to go to the power on test! We're getting there.And pull the cable ties taut.Next we insert the 3 cable ties at the backpanel.Pull the cable ties through and move the head of the tie towards the back.Trap all the Brown and Blue wires in the grasp.This cable tie is shown all the way back too, but the head actually has to be pulled forward a bitfrom this position, to enable the tip to be inserted into the head. And then the tie can be rotatedso that the head sits right at the back of the unit afterwords.Pull the ties tight. Slots at the back are convenient for this, on 2 cable ties at least.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 11:12:04 pm
content: A snip with some cutters.All 5 cable ties are back in their original positions.Ok. So we started out with Black Cable Ties, and ended up with White Cable Ties.Original were ESD safe, the replacements are standard non-ESD.We can fix this later.Now we put back on the 5 nuts and use our 5.5mm Hex Nut Driver to screw down the PCB firmly.Here we tighten gently, no need for high torque, because the serrated washer nuts will grip the boardand not come off easily, anyway, with vibrations.Plug back in the 4 remaining connectors, of the 6 total connectors that the PCB has.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 11:17:30 pm
content: Last minute check, that everything looks ok from this angle.And everything looks ok, from another angle.We are ready to put back on the LD400P cover, close up the unit, and begin testing.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 11:24:21 pm
content: Paired up with a P3 International Kill-A-Watt Meter, the AIM TTi LD400P is set up for turn on test.Turning on the power strip first, reveals the nominal 120V mains voltage is actually reading 124V today.Also, this is the first time the Flash on my old Nikon Coolpix 950 Digital Camera worked. A relic from the year 1999.After this, the Flash never worked again.So, I turn on the LD400P and take a photo. But, can't see the reading on the Kill-A-Watt.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 11:29:31 pm
content: I have to pull up the pic in Adobe Photoshop, and artificially increase the brightness just to see the reading.If the flash had worked, as planned, this wouldn't have been necessary. I need a new camera.The Kill-A-Watt tells us that the LD400P is pulling 180mA on turn on idle.From here on, most of the pics have to be Photoshopped just to see the Kill-A-Watt readings.LD400P pulls 12 Watts on idle.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 11:33:20 pm
content: While the Volt-Amps reading is 22 VA.The Mains frequency reported is consistent with the rated 60Hz in my area.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 11:37:29 pm
content: While the Kill-A-Watt reports the LD400P has a power factor of 0.56Consistent with an Inductive load. Expected because of the two transformers in the Power Supply PCB.This setup is made possible by a pair of clamps.The vise to the left is a Hobby Vise bought two decades ago from a surplus store.I have no idea the brand, but it looks identical to the "Vellman VTTV2 Table Vise" that's available onlinefrom various places. So, it could be that. It was a cheap $18 CAD tool at the time. Quite useful and flexible.It's an obvious imitation of the more expensive Bernstein 9-205 Spannfix. This vise is being used to hold a"Wolfcraft Spring Clamp FZH-50", which in turn is holding a "Woods six outlet power strip", into whichthe "P3 International Kill-A-Watt Meter" is plugged in, while the LD400P itself is plugged into the Kill-A-Wattto capture it's power drain characteristics.The setup is primarly to enable me to take photos, with both Kill-A-Watt and LD400P in the same shot.It didn't quite work out that well, because my old CoolPix camera refused to Flash. Anyway, it is what it is.Here's a close up of the LD400P turned on and idling with the factory default settings.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 11:43:17 pm
content: I tried to capture the start up screen that shows Firmware installed.Couldn't get a nice clear shot, because the camera autofocus wouldn't focus in time before the screen changed.Manufacturer says we must wait until the LD400P has gone through it's complete power up routine,before turning the unit off. So, it's a long wait to restart and try to take a photo again. In the end,I gave up. This is the best pic of the lot. Still, shows Firmware 1.04, and Interface Firmware 1.05.Good enough, to know the details.Now that we're satisfied that the conversion from 230V to 115V went ok, we just need onemore step. As per manufacturer's instructions, we re-label the backpanel to indicate thecurrent setting of this instrument is now 115V.For the new label we used "Nashua White 398 All-Weather Duct Tape Barcode 0 33656 56550 0,"cut a 15mm x 8mm rectangle out of a piece of this tape and write 115 V on with a pen.

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 11:49:57 pm
content: Comparing the size and form factors of the MX100TP and the LD400P.Since I now have both of these units, I decided to do some side by side comparisons on external details.The AIM TTi MT100TP sits on top, and the AIM TTi LD400P sits on the bottom, in this shot.As can be seen, they are about the same size boxes.Putting them side by side. MX100TP on the left. LD400P on the right.Putting the LD400P on top the MX100TP.I noticed that the MX100TP has air holes underneath, while the LD400P has that giant "air cage" with holes on top.So, I wondered, would it be effective to put the MX100TP on top the LD400P, so the Power Supply could somehow share that "air cage".Did the manufacture think to design things this way deliberately, for optimal stacking?Hmmmm...

author: eyiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 11:55:26 pm
content: Putting the MX100TP on top the LD400P to check this idea out, reveals the holes on the MX100P don't quite line up.But, given that the feet hold off the unit a bit, there's still some connection between the "air cage" of the LD400Pand the MX100TP when the latter is stacked on top the former. So, maybe there's better air flow for the MX100TP whenit's on top, rather than when it's on the bottom, of the stacked units. It's a thought.Finding a regular convenient spot for my new toy.Well, that's it. MY AIM TTi LD400P has been reconfigured from 230V to 115V to suit my particular mains power parameters.Next up is to test the LD400P on some applications to see how well it works out for me.Hope this was informative. I know it's a bit detailed. Almost nothing left out. i.e. nothing left to the imagination.Now anyone can completely "visualize" the process of the conversion, and decide whether they'd want to undertake it for fun, or not.If I had this detail before hand, i'd at least have gotten some Black ESD cable ties, and a Solder Mask Repair Pen, two things I couldhave really used in this job. Anyway, we never have everything we need. There's always something more to get.