Good, low-odor, non-toxic oils for tools - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2020, 08:16:28 pm
content: I currently use 3-oin-one oil to lubricate and protect my tools as that's all I have. It seems to work fine, however I don't like the smell and it's toxic (according to the label). I used to apply the oil while wearing nitrile gloves, but those are harder to come by these days and the prices are jacked up, so I've been using my bare hands.I'd like to get an inexpensive alternative that lacks odor (or has very little smell) that is also non-toxic and won't ruin any of the electronics that my tools come into contact with. Granted, I don't drench the tools in oil, I just wipe them down after use with a little oil and a rag, but I'd prefer not to slowly poison myself or damage things. I also moved to the southern USA recently and it is very humid here, so applying the oil frequently seems wise.I read a bunch of posts on here and some people suggested using gun oil, motor oil, Ballistol and others. Some were in spray cans which won't work for me, and many seemed to have strong smells as per reviewers (particularly the gun oils). I have to use this indoors and would prefer something I can apply manually instead of spraying. It would be best if it comes in a container and I can pour some of it into a smaller container to apply. I don't have much experience with oils for tools so I'm open to your suggestions based on experience.Some of the gun oilbottleswith needle tips looked perfect for application, so I might grab one of those to help get into tight nooks.Also, is there a good machine grease that comes in small amounts for long-term lubrication, like the thread/rods on a vise? I guess I could apply the same oil I do to the tools in friendlier amounts for such things, but that oil tends to be thin and may drip out.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2020, 08:24:10 pm
content: Sewing machine oil. It's odour free, non staining and is a decent quality synthetic oil.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2020, 10:46:13 pm
content: A good, cheap, easily found, source of high purity, low toxicity, odour free, mineral oil is ... baby oil.Just double check the back of the label before buying it. Once upon a time all baby oil was mineral oil, nowadays you get some brands that are vegetable oil based and that's a no-no as eventually it will oxidise and polymerise or exhibit rancidity. And obviously you want an unperfumed variety (which most are) unless you want your toolbox to smell like a maternity ward.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2020, 11:17:54 pm
content: You can buy very pure mineral oil in all US pharmacies, for next to no money.I know you don't like sprays, but hey, maybe one day you will find a use for this - a product I can highly recommend from personal experience:https://www.amsoil.com/p/mp-metal-protector-amp/When the solvent evaporates, it leaves a dry, waxy kind of thin film on tools and other metal objects that lubricates and protects them from rust. So your stuff doesn't feel so oily/greasy, yet it is protected. Works great for protecting stuff under the hood, on motorcycles, bicycles, garden tools, etc. etc.

author: ManuelMcLure
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2020, 11:46:39 pm
content: I use TriFlow regularly for oiling my 3D printer and sewing machines. Many vintage sewing machine repairpersons swear by it. 3-in-1 tends to gum up with age, TriFlow can help break it down. I don't know about toxicity, though, and it does have an odor that you might find unpleasant.As a grease I'm a big fan of SuperLube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease with Syncolon (PTFE) which is available in a tube at most hardware stores, even Harbor Freight. It's actually NSF-approved as food-safe.

author: xavier60
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 02:09:27 am
content: For grease, Super Lube Multipurpose Synthetic Grease (NGLI 1). It is PAO oil based which is also the base stock for many "synthetic" oils.So for general purpose oil and contact treatment for connectors switches and Pots, I use a PAO refrigerant oil like this,https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rocoil-Oil-Pao-68-Grade-1-Litre-Roc-Aa1-1L-Oil-Now-Clear-OG7040/283788055735?hash=item42131614b7:g:f2cAAOSwJrleTOzQ&frcectupt=trueThere is a slight odor. I'm possibly smelling the container.Tip, if you obtain the product in the link, decant it into another suitable container and clearly label it. The original containers tend to deteriorate with time and light exposure.https://spectro-oils.com/ttt-pao/

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 02:55:49 am
content: I really like Rem Oil. it's a gun oil, but goes great on tools.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 03:05:20 am
content: I like using LPS-2 which leaves a protective film for guns and tools. LPS-1 is a grease-less lubricant and also suitable which I use on connectors and switches. LPS-2 smells like cherries to me and LPS-1 smells like mint which leads me to suspect that key oil for musical instruments is the same thing. Since they commonly come in an pressurized can, I spray some into a labeled needle oiler for precision application.But if you want something absolutely non-toxic, then look for a food grade oil or use mineral oil. LPS Labs has several food grade oils but I have never used them.

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 03:12:58 am
content: Quote from: SilverSolder on September 23, 2020, 11:17:54 pmCool. I'll check if there is a local pharmacy nearby and give them a call. I still don't know this city very well.As for spray, the only reason I don't want to use it is because I have to work in my office/music room. I don't want to risk getting oil all over my computer and music gear if the breeze carries itIf I had a garage or a little shop setup, I wouldn't care.Quote from: xavier60 on September 24, 2020, 02:09:27 amThanks. I did some searches and not sure if they sell that stuff in the states.Are you using it like contact cleaner for audio gear? I know a lot of people use Deoxit, but that stuff leaves behind residues, so I've been looking for a generic alternative. I have a Roland D-110 and some other old sound modules that could use some oily love in their jacks.Quote from: ManuelMcLure on September 23, 2020, 11:46:39 pmI checked out TriFlow but it has toxic chemicals in it. Label says it's combustible and the vapor can irritate eyes.That Superlube sounds like great stuff though. Food grade and dielectric. Thank you!Quote from: Cerebus on September 23, 2020, 10:46:13 pmI will definitely look into this as well.Quote from: David Hess on September 24, 2020, 03:05:20 amI checked out LPS earlier today, but I was only finding aerosol cans and 1 gallon containers of it. Right now I'd prefer something non-toxic. I'll check out their food-grade stuff though. Thanks for the suggestion.Quote from: Dubbie on September 24, 2020, 02:55:49 amThanks. I checked it out but the label says "Fatal if swallowed." I'm looking for something a bit milder.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 04:39:48 am
content: "Drakeol" is one recognized brand for pharmaceutical-grade petroleum, which is completely odorless, non-toxic and non-irritating. It is also known as "white petroleum oil" in the trade.Oil for tools is commonly modified with corrosion inhibitors or wear additives, which may not be as biologically friendly.Another thing you might consider is raw (not "boiled") linseed oil, which is an edible product in some grades. It is certainly not odorless and may be allergenic to some people, and it can turn into a hard varnish which is not appropriate for bushings or pivots, but it does work. Traditional wood tool handles were always wiped with linseed oil.About some of the other suggestions: I would not suggest eating anything with PTFE in it. You should understand that NSF grade does not mean it is approved in food, just that it can be used in food processing plants. Methanol is NSF grade!Unless you lack access to a sink, I would suggest premium motor oil for wiping on your tools. The smell is typically extremely faint, and it does contain corrosion inhibitors that will counteract rust from sweat, etc. If you put some in an oil can you can apply as much or as little as you need to a paper towel to wipe tools with, without getting your hands covered in it.

author: xavier60
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 04:50:33 am
content: I have been using PAO oils as contact treatment for about 20 years with very good results. Pots rarely reoffend.Its usual application is as synthetic air-conditioner or air compressor oil. I choose the ISO68 viscosity grade.https://chematek.com.au/compressoroils/?gclid=CjwKCAjw5Kv7BRBSEiwAXGDElaG2dVONF1bYtFzDqlS2E4RxXEaRgo6IlFh563w_4t7Vfi5Hv8EMlxoCLV8QAvD_BwEProblem is being able to get it in small quantities.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 01:20:55 pm
content: Quote from: David Hess on September 24, 2020, 03:05:20 amThat's probably something with an exposed cyanide group on it (exposed in the sense that it's on a molecule in a position where it'll fit into a smell receptor). If you are one of the approximately 50% of the population that can smell cyanide then for you the characteristic smell of cherries, bitter almonds, cherry brandy and apricot brandy is the smell of cyanide. They all contain tiny quantities of cyanide or cyanogens. Those who can detect it, can detect it in minute quantities; those that can't would find lethal levels of cyanide odourless.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 01:30:15 pm
content: Quote from: Humanoid on September 24, 2020, 03:12:58 amOf courseallmineral oils are going to be flammable to some extent. A lot of things that could be strictly labelled "combustible" aren't likely to easily support combustion. For most lubrication grade oils labelling that merely says "combustible" shouldn't be of concern, it's accurate but not helpful. You can extinguish a lit match by plunging it into motor oil or most pharmaceutical grades of mineral oil, but they'd burn in an oil lamp (just about burn in the case of most motor oils). On the other hand "highly flammable" or "low flash point" warnings would rule something out from your criteria.

author: jogri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 02:24:19 pm
content: Quote from: helius on September 24, 2020, 04:39:48 amPTFE (aka Teflon) is about as inert as it gets, if you swallow it it'll come out the other end of your body unaffected... Wouldn't recommend eating plastic, but it won't kill you (maybe apart from constipation if the piece gets stuck).@Humanoid: I wouldn't blindly trust the warnings on SDS sheets, especially in the states they are just a wee bit too dramatic about substances that aren't that toxic. Just take the SDS of sand as an example...https://fscimage.fishersci.com/msds/09890.htmThe oils you listed as toxic have that classification because they consist of refined crude oil-> they contain all sorts of aromatic compounds that might or might not be toxic, so they just use the "fatal if swallowed" label to be on the safe side. If you want something that isn't toxic (allthough it can and will burn) go for medical grade liquid parrafin oil, the manufacturer has to prove that it doesn't contain any aromatics and that it is safe to drink(!!). A bit more expensive though, but definitely not toxic. You should go for the USP or NF grade stuff as drugs that have this label are certified to be pure.Sidenote about parrafin oil: It's a PITA to remove it, it especially likes glassware and will produce some nice traces that either need lots of scrubbing or acetone...

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 02:58:26 pm
content: Quote from: xavier60 on September 24, 2020, 04:50:33 amYou can get compressor oil in small quantities from any hardware store in the US. - that's actually a good idea, it is a very clean, additive free oil. Both synthetic and "natural" compressor oils are available.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 04:25:55 pm
content: Yes, I use refrigeration oil, and for a grease food grade grease, as I had to but them years ago, and the grease was essentially a lifetime buy. Refrigeration oil is cheap from the correct suppliers, and is low enough in odour to not be a worry, and I use it as a general purpose oil, and have even used it in my car to top up the oil, as it is essentially a straight SAE30 ultra pure engine oil, with pretty much no additives added to it, as they can react with the various refrigerants, especially ammonia.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 04:42:16 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on September 23, 2020, 08:24:10 pmJust an update. Singer sewing machine oil (super oil) comes out as "Slightly toxic". Material Safety Data Sheet:http://www.singer.com.br/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Ficha-de-Seguran%C3%A7a-ingl%C3%AAs.pdf

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 07:10:18 pm
content: Thanks for all the suggestions.No, I don't plan on eating this stuff. I just want to use something that I don't need to worry about if it's getting on my skin all the time and comes into contact with components and cables.I didn't want to get into it, but I have some health problems I'm dealing with, that's why I'm trying to reduce the amount of things I'll be handling all the time that might be toxic (ignores leaded solder on desk). Just playing it somewhat safe for now since I'm not functioning at 100%. In my college days I used to plunge my hands into photo chemicals and actually enjoyed the smell.I also tend to be close to what I'm working on, so irritating vapors could mess with my eyes or nose.The Dicrea SX oil (ISO 68) I'm not seeing sold here. I checked out some other compressor oils on Amazon, but many had cancer causing agents. Again, this may just be because of the State of California's stringent labeling of things even if they are in minuscule parts. Amazon doesn't list data sheets and I haven't looked those up yet to see what the deal is.I was checking out theSuper Lube 60004as it's a thinner oil compared to their grease that someone suggested. According to the data sheet, the only real problem might arise if this stuff is mixed with an oxidizer or if it ignited as it gives off toxic fumes. Everything else seemed to be more nitpicking around Canadian and USA labeling laws. So unless I doused my soldering iron with it, it would probably work and is relatively cheap ($5 for 4oz and free 1 day shipping via amazon). Says it's rated to come in contact with food, though I wouldn't use it on chicken.Speaking of food... I'm curious if anyone has tried coconut oil on their hand tools? I have a big jar of that stuff and it lasts for years. I use it to cook with and my cat loves it too

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 07:15:10 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on September 24, 2020, 04:25:55 pmDo they sell it in small quantities? Doesn't seem like something that would be, just curious. They all seem to be sold in quarts and gallons.Also, all the SAE30 engine oils I saw had detergents in them.

author: xavier60
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 09:36:11 pm
content: I see that Super Lube are still dumbing down their data sheets, not stating what type of oil their oils are.An email reply basically said that they don't need to say, so long as it's safe.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 09:47:06 pm
content: Quote from: Humanoid on September 24, 2020, 07:15:10 pmCompressor oil does not have detergents and can be found in your local hardware store (US).

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 10:04:59 pm
content: Quote from: xavier60 on September 24, 2020, 09:36:11 pmYeah, I noticed that. Some tests also seemed to not have been performed. Maybe it's taken from the necks of baby seals and combined with discarded mouse pads.

author: rcjoy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 11:13:25 pm
content: Starrett 1620 Tool and Instrument Oil.https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-1620-Tool-Instrument-fl-oz/dp/B000KUA2FI

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2020, 05:51:27 am
content: Inox MX3https://www.inoxmx.com/products/mx3-lubricant/

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 25, 2020, 08:23:57 am
content: Where do you buy that in NZ Tautech?

author: nuclearcat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 25, 2020, 08:30:12 am
content: Maybe i will sound weird, but, vaseline lotion without parfums seems almost pure petroleum jelly. Never tried to use to lubricate tools, but saw such advices over internet.Any professional opinion on it?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2020, 08:42:03 am
content: Quote from: Dubbie on September 25, 2020, 08:23:57 amMaybe Repco or Supercheap.Many gunshops have it in the small sizes......but most everywhere.One of the good products the Aussies make.The Inox MX3 supplier search for 20km radius of Auckland:https://www.inoxmx.com/retail-outlets/?rs=1&location_postcode=Auckland%2C+New+Zealand&postal_code=&lat=-36.8483048&lng=174.7624886&radius=20&sizes%5BMX3+Lubricant%5D%5B%5D=100g+Aerosol&sizes%5BMX3+Lubricant%5D%5B%5D=300g+Aerosol&sizes%5BMX3+Lubricant%5D%5B%5D=375g+%272-way%27+Aerosol&sizes%5BMX3+Lubricant%5D%5B%5D=125ml+Pump+Pack&sizes%5BMX3+Lubricant%5D%5B%5D=750ml+Bottle&sizes%5BMX3+Lubricant%5D%5B%5D=5+Litre+Bottle&sizes%5BMX3+Lubricant%5D%5B%5D=20+Litre+Drum&sizes%5BMX3+Lubricant%5D%5B%5D=5+Litre&sizes%5BMX3+Lubricant%5D%5B%5D=60ml+Needle+Injector&sizes%5BMX3+Lubricant%5D%5B%5D=92ml&sizes%5BMX3+Lubricant%5D%5B%5D=1+Litre&sizes%5BMX3+Lubricant%5D%5B%5D=450g+Cartridge

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2020, 09:27:40 am
content: Quote from: nuclearcat on September 25, 2020, 08:30:12 amVaseline, in it's various forms is excellent for improving and protecting brass terminals and preventing their threads from galling and seizing. When it comes to its lubricating film strength in higher stress applications (tool pivots and vise screws etc.), I have no clue - I don't know if such data would be available.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2020, 09:37:02 am
content: Quote from: rcjoy on September 24, 2020, 11:13:25 pmThe Material Safety Dastsheet...https://www.starrett.com/docs/default-source/msds/starrett-tool-instrument-oil-sds.pdf?sfvrsn=13

author: Wallace Gasiewicz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2020, 02:23:59 pm
content: Food Grade mineral oil is available in gallon quantities from Tractor Supply and any other store that carries horse stuff. Less than $20 a gallon. Maybe you can probably get it in restaurant supply stores also.Also works in oil filled RF loads like the Cantenna. (silicone transformer fluids are somewhat better and non flammable)You can also use food grade mineral oil to coat wooden salad bowls and wooden cutting boards.As it is cheap you can use it for cleaning tools also.I use an oil product called Marvel that is not straight oil and has lots of other stuff in it. I use this stuff for lubricating such things as bearings and gears in old radio tuners.NON SERIOUS COMMENT:As a person who is retired from Health and Safety in industry, the Toxicology Data seems to indicate that most products are safe to use OUTSIDE of California, where they are apparently very dangerous.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2020, 03:27:06 pm
content: Quote from: Wallace Gasiewicz on September 26, 2020, 02:23:59 pmA much better choice, as we're there, is Tung oil, made from the Tung nut and completely edible - as in your body would process it as food rather than merely tolerating it and excreting it as it does with mineral oils. It's a drying oil, meaning that it polymerises/cures on exposure to oxygen, and once cured isverywaterproof and has high chemical resistance to boot. In the days of wooden benches in chemistry laboratories it was the standard finish applied to them.QuoteAs AvE says "Known to cause California by the State of Cancer".

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2020, 06:16:59 pm
content: Quote from: Cerebus on September 26, 2020, 03:27:06 pmMaybe this would work as a battery terminal anti-corrosion protectant...

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2020, 06:44:33 pm
content: I have my doubts. On wood it soaks in and cures in the pores, with a few coats it levels out and provides a 'soft sheen' finish. The actual film strength isn't that high, which on things like chopping boards is an advantage, not a problem, it almost self-heals. On metals or other hard, non-porous materials I think it'd seriously lack adhesion and the poor film strength would mean that it's too easily scraped off.Meant to add that it's a great finish for wooden tool handles. If it gets sorry for itself a quick rubdown with fine sandpaper and a fresh coat brings it back to 'as new' condition.

author: Ground_Loop
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2020, 08:24:19 pm
content: How about cutting board mineral oil? No odor and definitely not toxic.

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2020, 09:27:04 pm
content: Well, as luck would have it, the local supermarket had pure mineral oil in their pharmacy. It was only $2-$3 USD for 16oz. The mrs bought TWO of them, so I should have enough oil for the next 50-100 years or so.Clear, odorless, and I can drink it if I decide I want the runs.It feels slightly more viscous than 3-in-one on my fingers, but the tools soaked it up and it applied easily, especially the blackened tools—it really made the black "pop" after applying it.Thanks for all the suggestion. I'm still looking at some of them for other uses. I think this will work for me for now for at least taking care of my hand tools.

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2020, 09:30:38 pm
content: Quote from: Wallace Gasiewicz on September 26, 2020, 02:23:59 pmDon't get me started on California.I checked out the Marvel Mystery Oil. Was a little more than I wanted to spend right now, but looks like good stuff for a variety of applications.Also see my previous post

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2020, 04:30:09 am
content: Looks good.Now that you have white mineral oil, here's a secret: wipe it on yourrazor blades. It leaves a film that doesn't wash off easily and retards rust for months. I have gotten much longer life out of them this way.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2020, 02:45:26 pm
content: Really? If I was to use a razor blade for "months" it'd hurt like hell. You must have the hide of a rhinoceros.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2020, 02:57:19 pm
content: I can get maybe 2-3 weeks out of a razor blade, there is no way it will rust before going dull!

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2020, 04:38:46 pm
content: I think he meant to oil up the additional blades you aren't using to keep them from rusting.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2020, 04:51:35 pm
content: Let's hope so, or come the zombie apocalypse he's going to be one tough mother to stop!

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2020, 04:55:56 pm
content: There could be a market for Rusty Zombie Shaving Blades. Zomblades™

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2020, 06:25:25 pm
content: I actually don't find that my razor blades dull very easily (perhaps the oil helps here). I have gotten more than 40 uses from each blade, depending on the type. The Feather blades do dull a little bit faster, but the Astra seem more durable. With an adjustable comb height razor, it's possible to keep using a blade that has dulled somewhat without tearing.Older blades were made of carbon steel, which actually can be stropped repeatedly to restore its edge. There is still at least one manufacturer for these in Pakistan. Oil treatment won't last months on these, regrettably; it would have to be more frequent to resist corrosion.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2020, 10:46:06 pm
content: Not much you can do to maintain a modern blade (plastic item with 5 or more blades in parallel), they are gone when they are gone. The best thing I've found is to clean them and blow them dry after each use, that seems to make them last longer. But getting more than about 30 uses out of them is pushing it...

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2020, 06:18:21 am
content: Quote from: SilverSolder on September 27, 2020, 10:46:06 pmI can't use multi blades for shaving. They don't agree with my face. I use the thin disposable kind and a metal holder. Even single blade disposables with a handle dull right away for me. I think my beard hair is like solid core cable. A typical day sets me back 2 blades.Regular razors for cutting things, maybe a few days if I'm cutting a lot of stuff. They'll still work, but they won't glide through things anymore. If I need that perfect cut I'll just open a new one and slide the old one over to the grunt work area of my desk.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2020, 01:32:21 pm
content: I learned a technique from an old soldier... wet your face with warm water first, before applying foam. That lets the foam connect better with the beard to soften it. Works amazingly well for me!

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2020, 04:21:09 pm
content: Quote from: Humanoid on September 24, 2020, 07:15:10 pmLook in the lawnmower section, and you should find quarts. Most small engines still don't have oil filters, so a non-detergent oil is desirable so that contaminants get trapped in sludge rather than continuing to abrade parts in motion. That was the way many of the big engines did it too, pre-1960ish. If you ever revive any old engines, don't switch to detergent oil until you have a major rebuild and clear out all the sludge.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 12:22:00 am
content: Quote from: Nusa on September 28, 2020, 04:21:09 pmI just checked the manuals for some of my small four stroke engines, Briggs & Stratton specifically say to use Detergent type oils in their engines. Always RTFM!

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 02:50:20 am
content: Quote from: nuclearcat on September 25, 2020, 08:30:12 amPetroleum jelly is basically very high viscosity mineral oil.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 12:50:01 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on September 29, 2020, 02:50:20 amYup. Just in case anyone was sleeping during their school chemistry lessons, paraffin, mineral oil, petroleum jelly and paraffin wax are all mixtures of alkanes (molecules with the formula CnH2n+2), calledparaffinsbefore IUPAC names came along, wherenfor the various materials is roughly:6 - 20 for commercial paraffin/kerosene (likely to contain some aromatic compounds as well as pure alkanes)10 - 20 for medical grade liquid paraffin10 - 24 for  mineral oils24 - 30 for petroleum jelly30 and above for paraffin waxThe boundaries between the categories aren't particularly exact, and the values fornare likely to vary depending on who you ask. The higher the number of carbons, the higher the boiling point, viscosity and temperature where flammable vapours start to form. The melting point of hexadecane (n=16) is 18ºC so is the last alkane that's liquid at room temperature, for heptadecane (n=17), it's 21ºC so that's solid at a nominal 20ºC room temperature. Basic material data for C9to C54alkaneshereat Wikipedia.

author: THDplusN_bad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 02:19:44 pm
content: Good Day,my recommendation ishttps://ballistol.com/. It preserves surfaces and is used by the military to protect metal surfaces long-term; non-toxic, many applications.Cheers,THDplusN_bad

author: bc888
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 05:57:06 pm
content: Sounds like the OP is fixed up. For anyone else, it's worth doing a search on "best gun oil" where yanks have spent a lot of time and effort to do home evaluation/comparisons. Some may want high lubricity, some safety, some rust resistance (for coastal dwellers). Observe the photo below:Link to methodology for this one,https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=546316but there is a lot of this out there. Do a search and look at images. As an aside, Ballistol is one of the very worst performers.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 06:10:45 pm
content: That's an amazing amount of work that someone put into testing!

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 09:40:22 pm
content: So much work. So much data. Love it!

author: Technomaniac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 10:55:27 pm
content: Everyone should try CANOLA OIL as a cutting lubricant on hacksaws and panel saws - makes cutting a BREEZE !

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 11:03:17 pm
content: Quote from: THDplusN_bad on September 29, 2020, 02:19:44 pmNot applicable here, stuff stinks, they add some kind of perfume to ithttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballistol

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 11:34:42 pm
content: Quote from: Technomaniac on September 29, 2020, 10:55:27 pmMy grandfather used to grease his sliding patio door with olive oilProbably not the best, but cooking oils can work in a pinch. Never tried it on a saw, but I think most oils would help more than nothing on a blade. It's been raining here a lot, so I'm gonna try that mineral oil I bought on some sliding doors once everything dries and I clean out the track.I used coconut oil on some old, dry, wooden box recently. It soaked it right up, darkened the wood slightly and made the grain pop, and even made the wood less brittle. It can coagulate in corners though since it's solid at room temp. I actually need to go check it because it's been sitting for several days... Not sure about using it on tools since it solidifies so easily and I don't know all the compounds that are in it. It might might leave a film or just make my whole room smell like coconut, which I would not like.Quote from: thm_w on September 29, 2020, 11:03:17 pmNo good.The other problem with Ballistol (for my needs) is that it only seems to come in spray cans and as a box of wipes. You can't just buy the liquid. The last thing I want is perfumed oil getting onto, into or even near my equipment. The smell of 3-in-one was bad enough. Luckily that mineral oil i found has no smell at all.

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2020, 12:13:31 am
content: Teflon is an endocrine disruptor.Quote from: jogri on September 24, 2020, 02:24:19 pm

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2020, 12:55:39 am
content: Quote from: cdev on September 30, 2020, 12:13:31 amPlease knock off the uninformed conspiracy theory style rubbish, I'm really, really sick of hearing it spouted on here. Especially when it is baldly stated as fact when it fact is a lie.Teflon is PTFE, Poly-Tetra-Flouro-Ethane, one of the most inert, non chemically or biochemically reactive substances that most people will encounter. It is NOT an endocrine disruptor because there's no way in hell that it will react with any of the biochemicals in the endocrine systems of fish, foul or even bloody fairies.Chemicals used in making it may be endocrine dispuptors, heck several of them are pure and simple lethal, but chemicals used in the manufacture of many things will disrupt all sorts of biological systems. From the ioscyanates used in making everything from plastic foam to car paint being highly potent respiratory irritants for anything with lungs, to the cyanide used in gold plating killing you dead in seconds there are many chemicals used in the manufacture of things that are harmful. That does not mean that the end products are harmful - the worst results from licking cured car paint or a gold plated ring are a dusty mouth and the taste of gross, unwashed hands respectively.This place is supposed to the the haunt of scientists and engineers, not mutterers of chem-trail conspiracies and the like that belong in the dark ages along with the freaking Witchfinder General.

author: 0culus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2020, 01:52:38 am
content: Quote from: Humanoid on September 29, 2020, 11:34:42 pmI have a regular can of it, that I use to fill up a pocket size oiler from time to time when I need it. The smell doesn't stick around like a lot of other lubricants and it works great.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2020, 06:11:21 am
content: Quote from: Cerebus on September 30, 2020, 12:55:39 ampoly-(tetrafluoroethylene). The monomer is required to be unsaturated in order to form the bonds that make the polymer. And flour is not involved.Biocompatibility needs to be understood in the context of material handling and how it gets used. For example, PTFE treated non-stick cookware should not be heated above 500 °F or toxic byproducts can be released. That temperature isn't hard to reach at all on a gas range. For small molecules, inertness isn't an unalloyed blessing: being biochemically inert (no breakdown pathway) is a prerequisite for bioaccumulation. Carbon nanotubes are both inert and carcinogenic.

author: jogri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2020, 09:04:31 am
content: Quote from: Cerebus on September 30, 2020, 12:55:39 amWell, you could say that he has a point if he is talking about really old Teflon products as a whole and is using the word "Teflon" to describe the plastic with all its catalysts etc and not just PTFE... Plastics based on PTFE used to contain perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and that stuff is indeed a endocrine disruptor. Would you experience a measurable increase in your PFOA levels by eating chunks of old Teflon? Probably not as most of it gets recycled in the manufacturing process and the rest of it is trapped in the plastic. A few molecules that happen to be on the surface might get loose and enter your system, but i doubt that this is measurable if you don't chew on Teflon for extended periods of time.The main way people get exposed to PFOA is via waste water from plants manufacturing Teflon, as you needed to run the reaction as a emulsion in water (PTFE is just not soluble in anything [maybe except liquid lithium], so you need some sort of tensid to get it going (exact same process of washing oil/grease of with soap, except the oil is your (P)-TFE and the soap is PFOA).)Quote from: helius on September 30, 2020, 06:11:21 amI'd use Asbestos as an example: Completely inert, but it manages to provoke a chronic inflammatory reaction that can lead to cancer.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2020, 01:52:10 pm
content: Quote from: helius on September 30, 2020, 06:11:21 amTypos don't invalidate the point.QuoteThe original context was food grade lubricants that contains PTFE, not non-stick pans, or the breakdown products at high temperature. The original quote was "Teflon is an endocrine disruptor", baldly, no qualifiers, no mention of breakdown products at high temperature. As for biocompatibility, PTFE is highly biocompatible at normal temperatures, it gets used in medical implants precisely because of that, it's even used as a coating on implants to passivate things that are less biocompatible. Uses include: repairing vocal cord defects, arterial grafts, orthopaedic joint implants, reconstructive facial plastic surgery, stents and replacement heart valves. The toxicity of other things, small molecules or not, is not in question.Cdev has a habit of promulgating left field, scientifically unsupported, conspiracy theory style misinformation. i.e. The implicit idea here that PTFE is dangerous to you, when it is not. He appears to be a nice, well intentioned guy, but he just keeps on posting this irrational stuff. If you go and support the idea, by extrapolating from normal conditions to construct some set of conditions where it could be dangerous you're just encouraging the spread of disinformation. Heck, if you're really unlucky he might regard you as a fellow traveller and start privately sharing his insights into economic theory with you - that should be discouragement enough alone.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2020, 05:22:04 pm
content: Quote from: jogri on September 30, 2020, 09:04:31 amPFOA itself also was widely used in fire-fighting foams, including the foams used on military airbases that got used in regular fire drills. Those areas are contaminated as a result.

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 01:43:42 am
content: Quote from: 0culus on September 30, 2020, 01:52:38 amCurious where you found it. I didn't see cans of it anywhere I looked. Maybe where I live they just sell the spray and wipes.

author: thermistor-guy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 02:58:11 am
content: Quote from: Gyro on September 25, 2020, 09:27:40 amI have used vaseline on threads and O-rings, in brass plumbing fixtures at home, for years. Seems ok.I use sewing machine oil on paper shredder blades.Just noticed that my storeroom has some liquid paraffin that is advertised as a laxative, so it is safe for skin contact and accidental ingestion. Given OP's stated health issues, OP might like to get some paraffin (or vaseline) from a pharmacy, and try it on some tools.To oil and recondition riggers' gloves, I use Sorbolene. Again, safe for skin contact. OP might find some industrial uses for it.

author: 0culus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 03:16:27 am
content: Quote from: Humanoid on October 01, 2020, 01:43:42 amI ordered mine from amazon dot con:https://www.amazon.com/Ballistol-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-Non-Aerosol-Trigger/dp/B001O2L80E/

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 04:59:55 am
content: Quote from: 0culus on October 01, 2020, 03:16:27 amOh for god's sake. I thought that was a spray canlol

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 05:04:30 am
content: 3 in 1 is a cleaning oil, I don't think you will get similar quality performance with anything else. I suggest a maintenance schedule and to apply on top of a rack with a brush in the sink, let it drain, then wipe down once.I don't think you are going to save much on gloves. You should use them anyway when you are cleaning a tool because the metal itself is toxic (metal oxides always form and come off)........ unless the oil is coming off absolutely clear........ its toxic.......

author: jogri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 06:26:33 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on October 01, 2020, 05:04:30 amYes, metal oxides always form but it's rather rare for them to come off again: Iron does this, but most of the other metals (aluminum, zinc, chromium, copper, magnesium, etc) don't. They will form a protective oxide layer on top of the metal when they are exposed to air, but this layer sticks securely to the metal and doesn't come off again. Even if you somehow get rid of this oxide layer (and that isn't easy and requires a LOT of heavy scrubbing), chance are that it'll form a new one in minutes. Iron is one of the rare cases where the oxide layer doesn't stick to the metal-> it comes off, new fresh iron gets exposed->rusts-> loss of material as rust is constantly falling off.So basically you are touching a metal oxide every time you touch a "metal"... Is the oxide toxic? Depends on how you define toxicity in this context: Almost all oxides are insoluble in water and fats, so just touching it won't dissolve it. But: Most of them will dissolve in acids, so if you manage to swallow it the metal oxide can dissolve in your stomach and may give you you a heavy metal poisoning.Should you use gloves? I'd say this is overkill as long as you wash your hands after handling it. Another problem with gloves is that people tend to enter a "Ha, i have gloves, i can touch everything now" state where they'll first touch something that you shouldn't touch with bare hands and follow it up by scratching their nose/using the phone/using doorhandles etc... Grats, you now have something you didn't want to touch in the first place on objects you touch all the time without even realizing that it is there.

author: 0culus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 01:45:42 pm
content: Quote from: Humanoid on October 01, 2020, 04:59:55 amLOL! It is a bit confusing, but when adding to your cart just choose the "single with no sprayer" option to just get a plain ol' can with no aerosol and no spray.

author: 0culus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 01:51:03 pm
content: Quote from: jogri on October 01, 2020, 06:26:33 amEmphasis mine. This process is calledpassivation. As you point out, iron does not passivate, but many other common metals do. Passivation layers can be easily overcome by judicious application of high concentrations of the correct strong acid. There are metals like ruthenium that are invulnerable to attack with even aqua regia, but you won't run into those outside of an inorganic chemistry lab for the most part. Ruthenium, interestingly, despite it's complete invulnerability to the nastiest acids and acid mixtures, can be dissolved in sodium hypochlorite!

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 05:57:11 pm
content: unless you are using surgical tools you will have oxides to deal with. Surgical metal tools are designed to do exactly what you want them to do.. .but they are not appropriate for most electronics work (you will find a few particular tools useful). You also need a high polish before you can work in that cleanness regime Those will have a professional full non rusting surface.. but those surfaces do not last with metal on metal contact.The only similar thing I saw is some jewelry tools that have nylon inserts. And tweezers, but you will not find most other tools that stay that shiny and nice and clean. Closest things i have seen are the knipex electroformed tools.. they might not get too dirtyi.e. the third one on this listhttps://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1371&groupID=2730&artID=35712stuff that looks bright and shiny like that to begin with is your best bet for oil staying clean

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 11:09:52 pm
content: I have a small container of a very light (clear) machine oil and my container has been going strong for years because I use very little of it. It doesnt smell. Its probably mineral oil.As far as teflon lubricants, I simply dont know.Teflon insulation on wiring? If it gets hot, I just don't know. teflon cookware should be avoided by anybody who keeps birds as pets, definitely.The main issue for me would probably be heat, there I know it can be unsafe if it gets too hot.Its used inside the body in medical devices, and its generally considered to be safe in that setting.Its complicated. Look at pubmed to get a wider idea of what issues are involved.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2020, 07:02:17 pm
content: Iron oxide is an ingredient in Wheaties and aluminum oxide is an approved food coloring. I don't think you really have to be concerned with "toxic metal oxides" unless you are handling lead or cadmium plated parts, which most tools are not.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2020, 07:30:35 pm
content: i think steel chemistry is a bit more complicated then that, not sure how much alloys you want to absorb..I don't think the rust that forms on tool steel leaves a wonderfully pure sponge of other alloys, it fractures off. Engine oil is known to be pretty toxic after its used, because of the metal content (not only old leaded gas engines). It's also a nasty microabrasive that messes with your skin, I don't think you end up with a 'cosmetic' formulation bleeding out of pivots and whatnot suspended in the oil .

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2020, 07:39:38 pm
content: On the bench / lab I use spray furniture polish (lemon scented Pledge). 3n1 oil for mechanics type tools but they live in the shop.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2020, 12:48:43 pm
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on October 02, 2020, 07:30:35 pmIt depends on type of rust; bluing and black oxide are rusts but help absorb or hold an oil film. Parkerizing does also but is not a type of rust.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2020, 01:32:06 pm
content: All of my tool rusting problems have completely stopped after putting a dehumidifier in the garage. Yes, it costs money to run it... but nothing rusts any more, so I think overall it saves both time and money (maintaining tools, power equipment, and of course cars - even the brake rotors no longer rust - etc.)

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2020, 07:37:19 pm
content: I put a dehumidifier in the basement, and it sure reduced the critters that were assaulting me upstairs

author: Technomaniac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2020, 08:25:23 am
content: I use Inox for preserving tools, and I have a trigger pack on one lathe, using as a cutting lube, but I can't recommend the trigger pack, it dribbles and isn't a reliable squirt. Inox is a handy squirt for all sorts of things.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2020, 03:04:39 pm
content: Never heard of Inox... Which of their products do you use?

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2020, 04:14:29 pm
content: Quote from: SilverSolder on October 16, 2020, 03:04:39 pm"Inox" is deeply confusing as a name for a specific product. In parts of the world "Inox" is shorthand for "Stainless Steel" (An old trade name I believe, used generically like "Hoover").

author: akimpowerscr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2020, 05:46:39 pm
content: If no one has cited it so far, I am a loyal user of Ballistol Oil.This product was developed in Germany to lubricate and protect guns but is ideal for many applications, including tool maintenance.It is not an odorless product, but the odor is not unpleasant.It has the advantage over regular oil of leaving a durable protective layer.For more information, see the website:https://ballistol.com/

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2020, 02:23:30 am
content: he means this magical grease that turns your tool steel into stainless with a simple application of a raghttps://www.inoxmx.com/