hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Wiring 6063 LEDS  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: CheetoPuff
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 10, 2015, 06:31:41 pm
content: I wired a bunch of 6063 LEDs using enameled magnet wire and I'm wondering what I can dip the LED into to seal the end? I don't like leaving the end exposed like that. Pic below

author: devanno
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2015, 06:59:19 pm
content: I think that kind of depends on where that LED is destined. I have used some "Super Corona Dope" on the back of some of mine that I use in modeling so the leads don't short.http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/protective-coatings/insulating/super-corona-dope-4226/

author: CheetoPuff
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 10, 2015, 07:06:56 pm
content: Is that stuff clear? My first thought was to just use medium CA glue (super glue), but I'm not sure if it is non-conductive. Basically I need something that is clear (so the light can shine through) and non-conductive. If anybody else has any ideas please let me know.

author: Yago
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2015, 07:15:05 pm
content: This might be the place to find something:https://www.norlandprod.com/adhesiveindex2.html

author: CheetoPuff
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 10, 2015, 07:17:34 pm
content: I was reading about the Super Corona coating and it is clear. I will probably use this. Thanks

author: devanno
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2015, 07:35:46 am
content: Hope it works out for you. The stuff is "dope" so have ventilation.. and it can be kind of thick. I believe there is a thinner for it, but you also don't want it running all over the place.I often use disposable "micro brushes" (hobbyist tiny paint brushes) when I'm working with tiny amounts of product like this. Superglue (AC / CAC / many names) is not conductive when dry, but it is brittle... it may just pop off if the leads get flexed.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2015, 08:40:01 am
content: I normally keep a small tin of water clear polyurethane varnish around, just for this. Dip in the varnish and leave to dry, wicking the excess off with a kitchen paper towel to leave a thin film, then hang to air dry. Leaves a thin film of clear that will flex slightly with movement.

author: devanno
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2015, 09:54:46 pm
content: Good approach, SeanB. I'll give that a try. Usually, I'm mounting the silly wired SMD LEDs in something metal, and don't want to risk any kind of a short, hence the dope. Maybe I'm the dope. :-)
Wiring a Solenoid Lock in RF system - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: idle_ember
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 19, 2020, 11:28:30 pm
content: Hi all,I'm working on a remote system for triggering a solenoid lock using RF modules. Its a very simple circuit (trying to take it easy coming back into electronics, I was of the BEAM robot days).I'm a bit muddled about the wiring of a solenoid into a cicuit. I've seen several sources with different advice on using power MOSFETS, Diodes (to protect against surge). But I can't seem to find a detailed explanation (with calculations) of how to rate and specify these components.I've attached a schematic of the circuit and would greatly appreciate any comments on improving the circuit and Solenoid set-up, as a learn-from-example sort of thing. Any advice on other parts of the circuit would be greatly welcome too. I have prototyped the circuit and it all seems to work so far.ThanksMark
Wiring a tiny amplifier card to a guitar - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Frank the dish
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2021, 04:13:05 pm
content: Hi Guys, Im trying to internally amplify a guitar, ive got hold of a tiny card from the net and need a bit of help wiring it, I understand most of the connections but the power supply confuses me. I have 3 grounds which I presume are common , At the bottom I have the speaker connections , no problem there , and at the top the stereo input connections, no problem with those either . Im left with the centre 3 marked Sw, +5.v and gnd. The 5 v I presume takes the positive from the power supply but where would the negative go? Does anyone know the purpose of the switch connection and how that should be wired , if at all. Ill say thank in advance to anyone who can help me with this.RegardsFrankJust found shot on you tube, the switch wire is not used, so I can now start my project.

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2021, 06:01:16 pm
content: Negative of the 5V supply goes to GND, presumably the intention is to use the GND hole directly adjacent to the +5V hole. But, maybe I'm misinterpreting your confusion.SW could probably be configured a few ways, depending on the circuit. Do you have a schematic? The seller didn't mention anything? The switch is probably connected between SW and +5V, or between SW and GND, if I had to take a guess.

author: Frank the dish
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2021, 06:47:05 pm
content: Hi, yes thats the way I see it, I couldn't see the way the SW connection would be used . Im going go put an inline switch in the positive 5v to switch my circuit off.Thank youFrank

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2021, 07:31:20 pm
content: Check the text on the amplifier chip, then download the datasheet for it.The chip will have an enable pin or on/off pin and the datasheet will say if the sw has to be connected to gnd for the chip to work, or if it has to be connected to voltage (and if so, if you need a resistor or something between the switch pin and the voltage)If you can't figure it out, maybe take a picture of the other side and show it here.I suspect it's PAM8403 as this amplifier chip is very common and runs on 5v , the datasheet is here:https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/115/PAM8403-247318.pdfIF this is the chip, it has a pin called SHDN (shut down) and a MUTE pin ... so one of those could be your SW pin :Quote

author: Frank the dish
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2021, 08:05:46 pm
content: Hi, ive found it wired this way on you tube , and it works like this . This is fine the way I want fo use it.Thank you all for the informationFrank
Wiring an Add a Fuse - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Mpa1991
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 12, 2021, 07:51:21 pm
content: Hi,Sorry if this question seems dumb. I'm adding heated seats to my wife's car, got everything set up except plugging in to the fuse box. Got add a fuse, made sure to pick a fuse slot that was only powered when the car is on, and made sure I knew which side of the fuse was hot. Problem is that my heated seats have two wires, all fuse taps I've found have one wire. Every tutorial I find either skips the wiring part completely or says insert you hot wire, crimp it, and your good. Where does the other wire go to complete the circuit? Again sorry if this sounds idiotic but I'm completely lost and trying to finish this for Christmas. Thanks in advance

author: GerryR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2021, 11:15:31 pm
content: From the seat perspective, one wire has to be "hot," the fused line, and the other has to be the return, or ground line. Does the heater come on whenever the ignition is on or is there a separate switch in the fused line to turn on/off at will?Sorry, I should have stated that any connection to the chassis / body will be the return / ground line.

author: fordem
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2021, 12:31:34 am
content: Just me, but I would want "heated anything" to be powered by a dedicated circuit with it's own fuse, fed from the vehicle's main power bus, via a relay, which would then be switched from an ignition switched circuit.Selecting a random ignition powered circuit to tap into is a good way to overload whatever circuit you've tapped into.

author: highpower
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2021, 01:24:03 am
content: What kind of car is it? (Make, model, year?) Are you installing factory seats or aftermarket?If the car had heated seats available as an option when it was made, chances are it already has the factory wiring for them already installed and an empty spot in one of the fuse panels made for it. Check for any unused wiring harness/connectors under the seats/carpet. It could be as simple as plug and play.

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2021, 04:34:44 am
content: Fuse taps are far from the ideal solution. No spare slots in any of the panels? I assume we're talking about an aftermarket kit here and not factory seats. How many amps does this thing pull?The other wire presumably goes to ground (chassis), usually one finds a convenient bolt that's either a factory ground point or not holding anything terribly important and puts a crimp on ring terminal and star washer (to cut through the paint) on it. DO NOT hack into any existing wiring.
Wiring and running an EL34 pentode - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tanto
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 10:37:25 pm
content: Heyo! First time poster.I recently acquired a couple of EL34 tube amps for a project to build a class A amplifier, but my google-foo is too poor to figure out the wiring or find a datasheet. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong:Pin 1/G3: 0V/GNDPin 2-Pin 7 /H: Heater element: 6.3VDC 1.5APin 3/P: Anode: 250V(AC/DC) 100mAPin 4/G2: ??Pin 5/G1: ??Pin 6/NC: No connectionPin 8/K:Thanks a bunch

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 10:43:44 pm
content: Frank's is an amazing collection of vacuum tube data sheets.https://tube-data.com/sheets/030/e/EL34.pdfThis one is bilingual German/English:https://tube-data.com/sheets/128/e/EL34.pdf

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 10:44:48 pm
content: The heater can be AC or DC, but the plate voltage is DC.There will be both maximum and recommended operating voltages for the other elements in the data sheet.

author: tanto
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 10:49:05 pm
content: Yea I recall reading that the heater can be either. I plan on using DC for both. (The power supplies are a seperate project)

author: retiredfeline
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 10:49:38 pm
content: You'll also want a design. Searching for EL34 amplifier circuits will get some typical designs. You'll need an output transformer. And most likely a power transformer to supply the various voltages, with a rectifier for the HV voltage.

author: tanto
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 10:53:07 pm
content: I have most of these parts planned out and on a BOM. I am trying to build this from scratch and not copy another design, but in some cases it's unavoidable.

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 10:54:11 pm
content: playing with 250VDC 100mA is no joke

author: retiredfeline
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 10:57:05 pm
content: Quote from: tanto on March 17, 2021, 10:53:07 pmThere are many common requirements such that it's unavoidable that your design will resemble others in some respects. The idea of looking at another design is to understand the tradeoffs, e.g. negative grid bias or cathode resistor?

author: tanto
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 11:00:44 pm
content: Quote from: retiredfeline on March 17, 2021, 10:57:05 pmOf course. There are only so many correct ways of wiring something.

author: Circlotron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 11:24:12 pm
content: diyaudio.com is also a good place to ask questions about your project.https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/
Wiring Diagram Needed Please - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Wilber6812
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 08, 2024, 10:38:39 pm
content: I currently have an SR32 board I am trying to hook up an IR Receiver w/remote, but I am a bit confused (actually stuck!). Is there anyone out there that has a diagram of how to connect these?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2024, 12:20:29 am
content: Please post a link to, or otherwise provide more information about, the board itself (Google search turns up nothing obvious as to what you’re talking about) and the IR module you want to use. We aren’t clairvoyant…

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2024, 09:07:32 am
content: Do you mean an EPS32 board?
wiring filter Caps to Power Entry Modules?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jaunty
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 07:18:52 am
content: hi guys - i'm just finishing a kit project and really UNCLEAR as to whether and/or HOW I need to add filter caps to a power entry module.The module is this onehttps://www.schaffner.com/fileadmin/media/products/pim/FN%20380.pdfthere's a schematic - there are two pairs of caps indicated and (on my specific module) they are labelled 0.02 nF and 0.047 µF. what is unclear is how necessary these are (just for spike mitigation?) and/or if they aren't in fact already built INTO the module - and it's just such a standard thing they don't bother mentioning it ... (?)any help here?incidentally ... this is being hooked up to a linear power supply

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 10:28:34 am
content: Caps/filter built into the connector, see opening description paragraph in datasheet.Regards, Dana.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2017, 12:15:25 pm
content: How do you know you need one at all (versus a plain, dumb receptacle)?Tim

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2017, 09:31:22 pm
content: Yes, as stated above, the filter circuit is built into the power entry module. The purpose of these line filters is two fold: It filters interference from the outside from entering your product, and prevents your product from conducting interference onto the line.In my experience, they are mostly used to address the latter. That's because there are regulations on conducted emissions that products must meet. If you are just doing a personal DIY project, then you don't really have to worry about that (too much). However, it's still generally good practice to use one, and I usually do.

author: jaunty
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2017, 04:23:16 am
content: Thanks for the help! Though (to Dana) the first paragraph didnt' make it at all obvious to me that it was built in- since it didnt' explicitly say this).

author: jaunty
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2017, 04:27:16 am
content: Yes thanks guys ... I just bought the modules because they looked pretty slick as a power termination (meaning connection) product for my IEC cable - without ever having given it a single thought - then after installing them I started noticing the diagram on the module and scratching my head over it ... thinking it was somehow required either by something innate to the product or else electrical code.Turns out though that it's mostly about flitering outgoing junk - but I guess it's not such an issue for me since it's connected to a linear supply ... ah well - live and learn ...! thanks again
Wiring For 4 Pin LED Rocker? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: splitting eve
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 14, 2023, 02:01:29 pm
content: Hello! I'm trying to wire this (probably very simple!) switch, but can't find any documentation.I find similar rockers, but any with wiring diagrams seem to have some indication of their vertical orientation. i.e., You can tell 'up from down' as it were, because they have a space (empty plastic surface) at one end.This mini seems symmetrical top to bottom, so I'm not sure which is in/out and which side is +/-.I'm guessing the plastic tab between the two pins that are closest together perhaps indicates this? But I'm just guessing.Any way of discovering this? Thanks for any info!

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2023, 02:25:16 pm
content: Check your pins with a DVM.It is often like this.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2023, 07:03:52 pm
content: If it's AC then there is no positive or negative and it won't have an LED, but a small neon lamp.The 1 symbol means on and the load connection will be on the same side.EDIT:Attached image showing the connections.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2023, 07:11:47 pm
content: QuoteYou sure about that? theres plenty of 240v AC illuminated switches that although they look like ole skool neon are actually led,ive used a few on sevral projeccts

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2023, 07:40:23 pm
content: Looking at the base of the switch, you can see the lamp connections to the more widely spaced pair of spade terminals. For a switched indicator lamp, connect those terminals to the load and the more closely spaced pair with the plastic separator between them to incoming Line and Neutral.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2023, 08:00:06 pm
content: Quote from: themadhippy on April 14, 2023, 07:11:47 pmNo doubt they exist, but the vast majority of illuminated mains switches still use neons, especially the red and orange ones.

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2023, 09:11:49 pm
content: Double check for switch continuity with multimeter.KCD1 125VAC DPST rocker switch. Neon illuminated . With the "O" (open) symbol Up, Left side pins are common (Neutral). Right side pins are Live .Top left is supple common (Neutral). Bottom Left is Load Common. Top right is Supply Live . Bottom right is load Live.
Wiring help, to wire up a exhaust flap actuator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Dox777
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 09, 2024, 01:50:54 pm
content: Hi there,I want to preface this by saying I am totally new to wiring up electronics and could really use a pointer. I am trying to wire up a exhaust flap actuator Kuster 3 pin) to a wireless control board (DieseRC 433Mhz 1 CH Universal Wireless Remote Control Switch DC 12V).The thing I am not certain about is where do I attach the white wire. The actuator has 3 wires, black (gnd) red (12+v) and a white (I assume is some sort of signal wire).Here is the attachment so far:DC 12V+ to 12V+ on the boardDC 12V- to 12V- on the boardJumped 12V+ to COM on the boardRed wire from the actuator to NO on the boardBlack wire to 12V- on the boardThat leaves the white wire which I don't know where it should go. Note that the remote control when pressed ON or OFF doesn't do anything. However if I touch the white wire to ground on the board, the actuator will respond.Any help appreciated.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2024, 02:22:36 pm
content: Welcome to EEVBlog.You need to go to "attachments and other options," upload your attachment(s), and be sure they post. It is a little clunky and temperamental at times, but it usually works.
Wiring LED and Switch. Is this correct?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: bonifacio
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2023, 11:55:24 pm
content: Just a simple LED Diode, battery and switch. With 2 different types of switches. Is this the correct way to wire them?I haven't tried it yet. Wanted to do my research and plan things out. Seeing if it's correct then determining if I'd have room to run the wires.Making a housing that needs to fit in a small space.I was planning to buy parts once I have things figured out.

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2023, 03:47:12 am
content: Your idea here is some sort of sound or air pressure pulse triggered LED or laser module? Also related to your need to print screw threads for a housing? The idea being to have some sort of art installation of lots of them scattered on a surface then each flashing as a wave of pressure moves over them or something?

author: bonifacio
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 09:54:07 pm
content: The threads question was just in general. Something else.For this it would be a pulse of air pressure or movement.I think I'm heading away from this idea and going with magnetic reed switches.

author: RJSV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2023, 05:35:56 am
content: I'm squinting at pictures, trying to see if there is a (almost always needed) resistor for setting the LED conditions. Like, for example, using 3.6 volts source and a red LED, a 100 ohm resistor will drop roughly up to about 1 volt, gets to to nominal 2.6 volts that RED type has, assuming 10 mA current (that's going to be bright).Or, as you fiddle with things, perhaps try a 330 ohms (in series), as that would be dimmer, at roughly 3 mA current.You might read, (LED Data sheet) that a blue LED runs nominal at 3.2 volts. Tempting to run things without including the regulating series resistor, (many cheap circuits do omit the resistor). I would consider carefully, as an included resistor means you don't have too fret too much about setting the power source, precisely.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2023, 06:34:06 am
content: OP's collection of Internet pictures, it's a LED laser module with resistor on board. These are usually powered from 4.5VDC three LR44 batteries like in a laser pointer.The shake switch only reacts to a change in acceleration or "jerk" as it's called. They switch very quickly 0.05 sec if you hit them with a good whack. I used one on a burglar alarm to detect a thief hitting or kicking a door. I had to add electronics to pulse stretch. I think the LED laser will only flash very fast and might not be what you want. It only flashed when hit, it is not a tilt switch.
Wiring loom manufacturer  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: pman92
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2023, 05:22:54 am
content: Hey guys,I'm looking for a company that can manufacture some very basic automotive wiring looms in smallish quantities for me (say 50 or 100 pieces).I'm currently using one in China however they are very inconsistent. Quality is fine but they are constantly mixing up connectors and putting pins in the wrong locations etc. Resulting in me having to do a heap of rework to the point I may as well just do the whole lot myself.Something like JLCPCB or PCBway, but for wiring looms instead of PCB's is what I'm looking for. But I don't think they exist.Has anyone had any experience with or can recommend anyone?Thanks in advance

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2023, 05:24:30 am
content: PCBway will do wiring looms, normally this is part of a PCBA order, but they will probably do it standalone if you ask.They call it "Cable Wire Harness Assembly"
wiring power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: metrologist
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2025, 11:54:51 pm
content: The middle of TDS page 2 has info on connecting remote On/Off:https://www.emea.lambda.tdk.com/fr-en/KB/CFE400M-Datasheet.pdfI can't make sense of it:Remote on/off:Enable - TTL logic level low (relative to Standby 0V) enables channel 1 and fan supplyInhibit - TTL logic level low (relative to Standby 0V) inhibits channel 1 and fan supplyAt the bottom of page 3 is a pinout for the J2 header. I assume I will use a SPDT switch to connect the remote on/off pin (2) to the Standby return pin (5) for power on and connect it to the Standby supply 5V pin (6) for power off.It does not say how much load the Power good pin can supply. I was going to put it to an LED, but if the remote power switch works the way I described I think I can switch in the LED to ground through a resistor.

author: JoanBS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2025, 12:12:44 am
content: I have a couple of these. Here might be the solution:https://product.tdk.com/system/files/dam/doc/product/power/switching-power/ac-dc-converter/app_note/cfe_appnote.pdf

author: metrologist
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2025, 02:57:37 am
content: Thanks for finding that. It also told me that the supply good pin only supplies 1mA, not enough for an LED. I think I can live without one - it will have an LCD display anyway.According to the label, I have remote type E, which means the supply should be off when the switch is open, but I tested this just by supplying AC mains and it had output, before I had any knowledge of the remote on/off pin.I also learned that the fan I intend to use pumps twice as much air than spec.

author: JoanBS
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2025, 11:37:19 am
content: The Power Good signal is not valid for powering an LED. In any case, a transistor powered by another output (perhaps the Standby line) would have to be inserted.The remote control works at TTL levels as indicated on page 8 (my units don't have a remote control).It also includes information about the required fan.I'm sorry I can't be more helpful.

author: metrologist
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2025, 09:45:34 pm
content: I think the thing to do is just try it out.Another one I did with a 36V 10A supply did not have a remote switch so I break the mains with an old fashioned chunky switch. Feels like I should go back in and see what I did there, and possibly fortify the insulation.
Wiring Question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ohm240
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 07, 2025, 12:31:59 am
content: I am a begginer designing a pcb from a schematic and need to know how the 10k resistor is wired.

author: brucehoult
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2025, 12:37:21 am
content: RXD to 5k to 10k to GND (0 volts), making a voltage divider forwarding 2/3 of the RXD voltage to the D0 (? hard to read) input pin on the MCU. Presumably that's adapting 5V to a 3.3V input.

author: jwet
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2025, 05:19:02 pm
content: That's a confusing schematic and likely incorrect. Problem 1 is the intersection between those R's should have a junction dot like all the other wires do. As last poster said, it looks like module is powered by 5v and Micro is 3v. This is a voltage divider that would take the 5v from the module and divide it down to something like 3.3v. The problem is that the pin shown is a receive pin on the module so I suspect this is an error. Its more likely that the micro is at 5v and the module want 3.3 on its recieve pin because its a 3v device. If this is true move the 5k resistor to the other side of the 10k so the divider take in a 5v and give the module 3.3V.Good luck.
Wiring Ultrasonic transducer driver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Victorr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 23, 2019, 08:08:54 pm
content: Hello guys i'm new to the forum.I need some info about the correct wiring of the AC input on the driver. Maybe someone can help me.https://ibb.co/SJ8q4srthis is a picture showing it. Do i just need to connect live and neutral ? Don't i need to ground anything? Is there a specific plug for such an AC input?Thank you

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2019, 09:42:55 pm
content: I would connect the neutral to the left and live to right, as that's the side with the fuse, although it really shouldn't matter. It should always be operated inside an case, which should be connected to earth, if it's made of metal.
Wiring up an APC UPS in a Chevy Volt - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: GiveMeTheJuice!
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2014, 11:52:16 pm
content: I'm looking for help getting an inverter connected to and running in my car. Sounds simple, but my car doesn't have the required voltage to run the inverter.I have a Smart APC UPS SMT1000 ( pure sine wave ) that requires 24V, this is the inverter I want to use.My Chevy Volt has a glass matt 12v battery, aka starter battery. As part of the cars charging system for starter battery, a thingamajig is used that pulls juice from the traction battery and reduces the voltage and charges the traction battery. This thingamajig is like a modern alternator. It does the same thing w/out a pulley.What I need help with is leveraging the "alternator" and traction battery to supply and/or recharge juice the UPS draws while both the car and UPS are running.Its understood I would need to connect two 12v batteries together to power the UPS/inverter. Further, I understand these connected batteries need to be isolated from the Volt otherwise the circuits connecting to the 12v would get 24v.If I have two 12v batteries connected to produce 24v, how could I leverage the Chevy volt to charge them?

author: jamesglanville
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 12:20:31 am
content: Can't you just use a 12v->24v dc-dc boost converter? I don't know what sort of power you want to get out of the car, but I imagine you'll run into problems pulling enough current from the car before a dc-dc converter gets too expensive.

author: GiveMeTheJuice!
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 12:32:07 am
content: Sounds good to meWhat do I look for in a high quality 12v->24v dc-dc boost converter? Would I look for a specific brand and trust what they make? If yes, what brand would that be?

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 12:34:44 am
content: Doug Coulter put a cheap 12V inverter into his Volt. Have a look on his forumHERE

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 11:22:16 am
content: This sounds like it would end up being a kludge on top of a bodge. A lot of UPSes count on the battery being isolated, not connected to your 'earth' ground. That and UPSes aren't meant to run continuously, so cooling and whatnot can be an issue. Given the price for a 1200+ W 12v to 24v converter thats isolated, you might as well just buy a 1kW 12V input sine wave inverter, wire it up to the battery, and be done with it.

author: max_torque
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2014, 07:25:52 pm
content: You also need to be aware the Volts DC-DC convertor isn't that powerful, as a lot of the high current consumers are driven directly off the HV battery (AC/cabin heater etc) So you don't want to be fitting a massive inverter that will end up draining the low capacity LV battery
WiseView LMU7I42M1 Mercury2 K32P8BF - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2023, 04:54:27 pm
content: There is this Dell 2709Wb 1080p monitor, first it had lines across one of its sides, black lines, I traced it down to ribbon cables, but then the other side went gibberish. There is this chip on t-con, WiseView Mercury2 LMU7141M1 K32P8BFI need datasheet for this chip, it's proving hard to find.I got this monitor and a system block for $15 back in May, system block turned out to be really nice, Asus P5Q3, it is down at my work bench, excellent rig for manuals and stuff, and I hanged monitor on the wall, right in front of me. But the thing went bad, unfortunately. To fix it, I will either have to source a used t-con or buy new chip. Basically, all I need to know from the datasheet is if this thing is programmable. If it is, then I should look for a used t-con that matches my panel, if not, then it should be a simple chip replacement. It should cost me around another $15 to fix this monitor, and around $30 to $40 for top of the line Xeon CPU and memory. Then I would have a rig running at 3.9 to 4.2 ghz, with plenty of ram, which will be used for PDF, internet, and video from microscope, and some older version of Sony Vegas for 1080p video editing.I mean, I could buy a brand new monitor, they are cheap nowadays, $110 for a brand new 1080p 27 inch, so if fixing this monitor really quick doesn't work out, I'll just have to spend some cash on brand new monitor.But it would be really nice to use this older top of the line monitor from back in the day. It has nice picture and is build heavy, not how they make them now, thin and fragile. The couple if bought it from ran a business around 2010 for several years and then monitor and system block were stored in garage, so very little running time. When your wife says get rid of it, you end up selling stuff for cheap. I also bought Microlab Solu 7c from them for $10. Excellent speakers:-//You can see I took off the chip, this is because I did fiddle with it without microscope, and now looking into it under microscope, I think there might have been a short and a ton of flux, so putting it back on might actually fix this thing.
with inductors and transformers, do you need to supply a load. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: robowaffe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2023, 04:40:30 pm
content: I ask this question, because when your computing the timing for the inductor, or transformer, do include the winding resistance with the resistor you supply to it to compute it?So when u add the thing its driving, u also include in with this resistor, the winding resistance? or is that not included and u dont need it.Also... in Falstad, do u supply the winding resistance beside the inductor, when u add the component to the circuit?
WM-045 DC-DC converter IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: gigabyte091
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2021, 07:10:58 am
content: Hi guys, does anybody knows which PWM controller is in this converterhttps://www.aliexpress.com/i/33011692756.html, it is 16 pin device in PSOP package.
Wondering how to prevent this washer launcher from failing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: wirehead_freenode
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2021, 08:43:03 pm
content: Hi, I have this circuit, it's basically an electromagnet which discharges capacitors into a coil. Works with high voltage.The 25w/25Ohm resistor keeps failing and disconnecting. What kind of resistor should I use so that it doesn't fail?Also, I run it at 1 pulse every 20 seconds. The coil runs cool.

author: srb1954
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2021, 06:15:33 am
content: Quote from: wirehead_freenode on January 05, 2021, 08:43:03 pmIf you don't have the knowledge to work this one out yourself you shouldn't be playing with such dangerous circuitry. You should take the time to learn some basic electrical theory and maybe then you will realise how much risk you are taking.You also don't seem to have taken any notice of the safety advice offered in the response to your previous post regarding this circuit.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2021, 10:15:21 am
content: Which is it? A washer launcher or a PEMF machine?https://www.eevblog.com/forum/dodgy-technology/wondering-what-the-voltage-on-this-pemf-machine-is/It's not safe for a beginner to be playing with either way.
Wood Bench... Conductive Oil for ESD Control? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: nbritton
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2016, 02:32:02 am
content: Anyone know of a conductive oil that you can use to condition wood for the purposes of dissipating static charges for ESD control?

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 15, 2016, 03:19:40 am
content: Digikey carries ACL Staticide products. Most wood keeps static down anyway (and oil insulates?).http://www.aclstaticide.com/pdf/ACL-Staticide-Static-Control-Brochure-2014.pdf

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2016, 07:46:30 pm
content: Wood is ESD safe, naturally. It can't build or retain a significant localized surface charge.ESD protection is for things that need ESD protection. So we have ESD-safe plastics. No such thing needed for metal and wood, lols. Just because plastic/rubber surface is called ESD-safe doesn't make it necessarily more safe than wood/metal. In the long run, some "ESD-safe" products will wear out, because it's just a thin coating that makes them so.QuoteOil is sucked into the wood. Is not surface finish like paint/varnish. Danish oil is varnish, BTW.

author: f5r5e5d
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2016, 08:24:16 pm
content: conductive metal sheet or foil isn't "ESD Safe" - you want high resistance to limit discharge currents when you bring a charged component into contact with your work surface

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2016, 12:29:36 am
content: In really dry locales wood can hold a charge though it still isn't much for contact generation. Any place with moisture in the air wood is fine. In normal places wood won't get much below 3-5% moisture content which is more than enough to leak off charges.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2016, 05:45:24 am
content: delete.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2016, 10:57:05 am
content: If it is conductive, then don't put live electronics on it!Wood will trap all sorts of crap which will then be difficult to see and dislodge. Not good when the crap is solder spashes, wire clippings, metal shards etc.Just get a proper ESD mat and put it on top of the wooden surface. Then you'll be able to see and easily remove all that crap before it merges with your circuit.
[Solved] Wooden BT speaker display, how it's done ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dhead
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 05:20:03 pm
content: I would like to hear if anyone know how the front display is integrated.http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wooden-Bluetooth-speaker-Alarm-Clock-Stereo-Speaker-LED-time-Temperature-Display-NFC-USB-charger-mini-bluetooth/32250402714.html

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 05:21:08 pm
content: The 'wood' will have been routed to a very thin layer, and some bright LEDs put behind it.Realistically it's probably just the melamine veneer over some entirely routed out chipboard.

author: dhead
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 07:03:51 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on December 20, 2014, 05:21:08 pmOh, that's simple while it's still a nice solution.I'll definitely going to this solution in project box.Thanks @Monkeh

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2014, 08:06:07 am
content: Looks like a low density wood ( soft fast growing plantation like pine, balsa or such light wood) block that is cut using a CNC or a milling machine to leave a 1mm or so recess for the LED displays on it. Then the buttons are most likely done using a thin ( 2mm or less ) recess and having capacitive switches on a PCB there, or by making it 1mm and mounting the switches in a recess that allow just pressing on the thin wood to operate them.
Worcester Bosch boiler PCB - identify 64pin TQFP IC  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2024, 12:33:24 pm
content: https://www.trustapart.co.uk/product/worcester-87483004840-printed-circuit-board/I have a fly tipped PCB which looks to me like the one in the link.It has a 64 pin TQFP IC with code below - not found onlineF01381401EP201M2JAPANI guess this could be management system controller?[edited to add a pcb picture - after all components removed]

author: squadchannel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2024, 12:40:13 pm
content: have an image of the IC?

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2024, 01:05:14 pm
content: thanks - I found that too

author: squadchannel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2024, 01:06:57 pm
content: Judging from the "JAPAN" font, I think it is a NEC microcontroller.It maybe uPD78F0138.Compare from the position of the power supply pins, etc. If they are in the same position, they probably are.Since it is a MaskROM, I don't think you can dump the firmware. It may be better to give up.I compared it to other NEC microcontrollers, but it has the distinctive #1 pin identification marking. I am sure it is correct.

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2024, 01:56:15 pm
content: good point about the mask romjust watched Shahriar getting stuck into that process
Words - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: silmartap
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 11, 2016, 06:38:01 am
content: Could it be possible to create a lexicon (LEDAero mentioned this before some months ago) here little by little by experts? A page or three which contains clarifications of some words, acronyms and formulas of electronic world for beginners? I bet it won't be useless if made.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 11, 2016, 06:44:48 am
content: http://www.eevblog.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

author: HAL-42b
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2016, 12:09:25 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on March 11, 2016, 06:44:48 amNeat. Not much editing going on though.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 11, 2016, 02:16:24 pm
content: I guess it's all on wikipedia anyway

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2016, 02:20:21 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on March 11, 2016, 02:16:24 pmIndeed. I have found Wikipedia to be quite handy for either outright defining and explaining words phrases and concepts, or at least providing a context to go searching for the explanation. Even rather advanced and complex things are generally explained well. And they have one of the better ways of parsing out mystery acronyms.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 11, 2016, 02:21:47 pm
content: Theres quite a lot of electronics on wikipedia
Workbench grounding question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: audiotubes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2023, 08:04:09 am
content: I have a workbench with a steel frame and wood worktop. I will have an ESD mat on the wood surface connected directly to ground via an A/C outlet grounding plug.Should the steel frame of the workbench be grounded? Should it not be grounded?Thank you.

author: JohanH
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2023, 09:26:49 am
content: This has been discussed before.E.g.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/workbench-grounding/Metal structures should be connected directly to ground (PE).ESD mats and straps should be connected to ground. If necessary through 1 MΩ, 1 W resistors.It's also strongly recommended to have an RCD or GFCI installed, in some places mandatory.

author: audiotubes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2023, 09:28:40 am
content: Thank you for the link, I will read it.I'm a foreigner here and I don't know their electrical code. I'm in a new building but there are certainly no GFI outlets as I have seen in other countries. Maybe there is something in the breaker box (panel).
Working 8pin off-line current-mode PWM controller in LTSpice ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2021, 10:47:20 pm
content: I was modeling a broken PSU I have that uses a typical off mains-line current mode PWM controllerhttps://aliot.com.ua/pdf/ob5269.pdfAnd I don't see one at 50kHz in LTSPice, and the LT1242 I tried gave some error about no timing and can't run transient analysis ?? Maybe I'm supposed to enter some timing values ?

author: opampsmoker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2021, 11:42:36 pm
content: Here is an offline flyback in LTspice with LT1243.LT124x datasheet tells you how to calculate R and C for f(sw)...or just be lazy like me and start with 3k3 and 3n3 and tweek it till you get your 50khz or whatever.LT1245 and some others have f(sw) at half the frequency of the oscillator.....but just shove some values in and check the frequency and you'll see.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2021, 02:34:30 am
content: Thanks, I'll try that, and look it up again too, I'm even watched the creator, I think Mike Englehart , demonstrate some 8 pin converter or PWM chip, but sometimes it's just easier to ask on here again.I need to learn a few more tricks before I can calculate these circuits over time.I'm always wondering tho how close a block diagram scematic will work, I should just try more stuff I guess, rather than assume it's black box.
Working of a JFET after increase in depletion region - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rgujju
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 09, 2020, 05:32:58 pm
content: Hey Guys,I am trying to figure out a n-channel JFET works. Consider the following caseVgs = 0V and Vds is positiveAt this point there is some current flowing say Id. and there is depletion region formed at the two PN junctions. Now as I increase Vds the depletion region becomes larger. I understand up to this point.But now I do not understand why does the current increase as Vds becomes more positive.As the Vds becomes more positive, the depletion region becomes bigger hence the n-channel becomes smaller which should increase the resistance and hence the current should decrease right? But this does not happen.What is wrong in my understanding?

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2020, 11:33:49 pm
content: The current only increases in saturation when Vds is low. Once the Vds is high enough, pinch off occurs and the drain current becomes constant, which is how constant current "diodes" work.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2020, 11:46:29 pm
content: Yes, you have it right. At first the depletion region has no effect and the channel resistance remains near Rds(on). As voltage goes up (on the order of the gate cutoff voltage, for obvious? reasons), the channel starts to shrink and Rds(on) rises.Eventually, the depletion region fills the channel, and only a narrow thread of current flow remains; this is the constant current region.Tim