hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Identity old IC chips  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: _EDMAR_
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 04, 2024, 07:14:53 pm
content: I inherited my late-father's electronic parts and tools.Where should I post questions about stuff like this old IC chip? SC1633 310-23 (M 035, I'm assuming this is a Motorola chip)Or this old POTs lamp.

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2024, 01:37:06 pm
content: Chip seems to be Motorola Special Custom ECL.Regular 33 is dual RS flip-flop.(was based on MECL II)

author: _EDMAR_
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 06, 2024, 04:52:23 pm
content: Thank you.Btw.... have you seen where any identitfy components areas here?

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2024, 10:28:38 pm
content: Motorola created Onsemi in 1999 as a spin off semiconductor manufacturer so I imagine that some older obsolete devices may not have any data sheets available prior to the change to Motorola's company model. If someone has a Motorola catalogue dating before 1999, that number may have a reference to what it is.As a side note, the Ceramic Flat Pack is still available to this day. So seeing a microchip with long wire leads won't necessarily indicate vintage. For example, Texas Instruments W, NDA HKK packages are still active. These would be used in extremely high vibration and/or extremely high inertia environments. Not generally used in automotive or consumer products but more for aerospace and military applications.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2024, 05:18:26 am
content: Motorola parts beginning with "SC" are custom. They may or may not be similar to an existing non-SC part.

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2024, 06:42:58 am
content: Yup.Quote from: _EDMAR_ on January 06, 2024, 04:52:23 pmThis style is just fine.I think somewhere was a pinned thread for these but can't fin it anymore.

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2024, 08:31:20 am
content: Quote from: _EDMAR_ on January 04, 2024, 07:14:53 pmThe lamp is either a "Lilliput lamp" if it is very small, with a envelope diameter similar to an older style LED, or if is somewhat larger, it is a "switchboard lamp".Unfortunately, in the job where I used the latter type, we had thousands of them in the Supply Branch, & the only other name for them was an internal one.

author: _EDMAR_
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 12, 2024, 07:09:06 pm
content: I'm a 3rd gen Marine. My father retired a retired Gysgt, was attached to the AirWing He specialised in radar development & deployment.He was a hidden hero, that his "modifications" saved many, many American lives.Some parts (a few) were made to his specs, and not much info is found. His notes are all but lost.So...I thank you very much as the info is helping fitting all his puzzle pieces together!!!
IEC-C7 splitter/daisychain solution? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: K3mHtH
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2018, 04:54:22 pm
content: Hey everyone,I have 4 different battery chargers that all take an IEC-C7 plug and I'd like to simplify my rig (this is for my portable video gear) and get rid of all the cords and power bar. Has anyone seen an IEC-C7 splitter or daisychain cable that's pre-made? Would be great to have a single Male AC connector (north america) that goes to 4 IEC-C7 female plugs... very ideal
IEC connector crimps - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: bifferos
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2022, 12:21:45 pm
content: I've bought some IEC connectors they have spade connectors that seem to match the standard 4.8mm crimp size, however they have oversized holes compared to the standard crimp spades. Can I just use the normal crimps with these or is there something special I need to use? The hole is about 2.8mm.Thanks!

author: geggi1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2022, 02:18:56 pm
content: I beleve these are for soldering.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2022, 04:10:21 pm
content: They fit the standard spade connections fine, the big hole is for soldering, but the spade connectors grip the side, and hold well enough.

author: Jeff eelcr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2022, 06:17:48 pm
content: If in doubt use high temp fastons as these will be stronger.Jeff

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2022, 03:59:52 pm
content: You could use spade connectors but they best be high quality units. I've become jaded with respect ot spade connectors as there are too many unit (spade crimps) of poor quality that either fall off or end up smoking pretty badly. If you really want to go spade, buy high quality crimps and make sure they are properly installed.Is there a problem with soldering the wires directly to the IEC entry unit? This is often a better choice.

author: bifferos
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2022, 02:44:33 pm
content: They look to be holding well. I made the mistake of trying to use 1.5mm cable with the blue crimps, but once I switched to 2.5mm all was well, and they passed my 'pull out' test. The crimp itself is holding pretty well on the spade too. I got the crimps off Amazon.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2022, 08:54:45 pm
content: Quote from: wizard69 on June 27, 2022, 03:59:52 pmThat's what happens if you use the insulated spade connectors.Buy a proper crimp tool (yes, $100+) and use the uninsulated ones. They hold better than solder. Dedicated loose sheaths or crimp tubing on top.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2022, 05:36:33 pm
content: Quote from: Benta on July 02, 2022, 08:54:45 pmIn either case, insulated or not I've found that a lot of the spade connectors are just too cheap to hold up to the full current ratings of an IEC socket. You are far better off buying your crimp connectors from a reputable manufacture and yes using their recommended crimp tool. A good crimp tool does nothing for connectors that don't grip the spade correctly.
If charger and battery both have protection? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Peabody
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2018, 12:40:42 am
content: I'm going to be making the internal battery modification to my DSO150 Shell kit oscilloscope. That consists of adding a charger module (using USB power), a 3.7V lithium ion battery, and a boost converter module to take the voltage up to the 9V needed by the scope. I wondered if there would be any problem if both the charger and the battery claim to be protected. I'm hoping it would just be a case of whichever is the most limiting being in control. Does anyone have experience doing that? Any problems?Also, I'm a bit concerned about the boost converter being noisy (although the 9V supply it will replace has a switching regulator, and it works fine). If anyone has a favorite cheap Ebay or Banggood boost module, let me know. The scope draws 120 mA.

author: soubitos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2018, 12:50:47 am
content: This is one of my first TP4056FlexAdv modules into one of the chinese "transistor" testers.Battery came from an old handheld device and its not protected. For something that does not draw that much power like this, you can also check for old mobile phone batteries, they can do the job nicely and being flat, they will fit even better.And no, you should have no problem with double protection!
If Secondaries are not matched, can they still be connected in parallel? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fc3000
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 01:13:27 pm
content: Hi i have a 10VA lamination transformer. 230AC, with sec 12V+12V.I wanted to connect the secondaries in parallel, get higher currentI made some checks on this transformer and find that one secondary is 3.6R an the other is 4.1R.That mean one secondary will provide more current than the other.Will this difference in resistance cause any problem?Regards

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 01:22:14 pm
content: if they give the same voltages, i should be ok, but the weaker may heat more over time for long period uses

author: Xena E
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 02:19:21 pm
content: The higher resistance winding is likely wound on top of the lower resistance one. The higher resistance is commonly due simply to the greater length of same section wire used to accomplish the same number of turns. If the measured voltage is the same there will be no problem connecting them in parallel.X

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 02:32:46 pm
content: Quote from: coromonadalix on March 04, 2023, 01:22:14 pmTrue, but don't forget that copper has a positive temperature coefficient and that both windings being on the same core, means they'll be fairly close to the same temperature.If the voltage is the same, it won't matter.

author: fc3000
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 03:33:38 pm
content: Thank you to all who answered.I have measured the voltage of the secondaries they are both 15.1V.So all is OK.Regards.

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2023, 05:09:19 pm
content: You have to connect the windings in phase or you will get zero volt and the transformer will overheat.
If the Dwin display shows 'TA' instead of 'DGUS' on the SD card blue screen: - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rtek1000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2024, 05:21:12 am
content: If the blue screen is showingTAinstead ofDGUS, it willnot workif the project placed on the SD card was created with the DGUS ii software.For TA mode it is necessary to create the project using the TA software.To convert the display to DGUS mode, see this other post:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/is-it-possible-to-have-a-dmg80480y070_02nn-(t5l0)-display-with-t5l1-firmware/msg5368919/#msg5368919There are many videos about programming these Dwin displays using the DGUS software, including on Dwin's YouTube channel, I don't know why Dwin is sending the display in TA mode.

author: rtek1000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2024, 06:34:01 pm
content: Danger: high voltage for ESP32 and others below 5V:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/(dwin-display)-danger-high-voltage-for-esp32-and-others-below-5vhttps://github.com/dwinhmi/DWIN_DGUS_HMI/issues/17
IF transformers , impedence - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: salviador
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2015, 02:20:18 pm
content: Hi,I have a question about IF trasformer and impedence:http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/449/XC-600131-205883.pdfmake an example, I take a "42IF103-RC" in the datasheetPri impedance : 20KSec impedance: 6KTurns Pri: (1-2) 103 and (2-3) 50Turns Sec: (4-7) 27Ok, I want to test the formula of the impedance and number of turns:sqrt(Zpri/Zsec) = Npri/NsecIf I apply this formula:sqrt(20000/6000) = (103+50)/27sqrt(3.333) = 5.6why not bring ??

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2015, 02:51:34 pm
content: The impedance also depends on the core material and the frequency. Your IF coil will therefore be 20K/6K when used at 455 KHz.

author: jimmc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2015, 08:02:35 pm
content: There is an error on the datasheet the column marked 1-2 should read 1-3.The schematic is correct, the primary is 103 turns (1-3) tapped at 50 turns (2-3).The normal connection is input 2-3 giving a turns ratio of 50/27 = 1.85 :1 and an impedance ratio of 3.43:1 close enough to 20k:6K.(Less than 100% coupling accounts for the difference.)The 20k impedance is chosen to give the required bandwidth and loaded Q. (Unloaded Q =75, loaded Q = 30)Jim
If you can read Japanese, what does this say on the schematic? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2023, 03:11:05 am
content: What does it say under CN14?This is from a NEC PC-6001 computer, but I don't see this header on pictures of the main board...Pictures of the system:https://diarywind.com/column/pcb/pc6001.htm

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2023, 03:18:26 am
content: Google Translate says that it is "pattern only". Probably means do not populate? Although there does not seem to be even a footprint for it on the board.

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2023, 03:20:44 am
content: Maybe there is an empty header somewhere, or it never got implemented...How did you get google to translate graphics?

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2023, 03:24:13 am
content: Quote from: alank2 on February 26, 2023, 03:20:44 amGoogle Translate phone app. Point your camera at a thing and it overlays the text. There may be a way to do this from PC, but I have no idea.

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2023, 03:25:54 am
content: Thanks!

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2023, 03:36:11 am
content: Quote from: ataradov on February 26, 2023, 03:18:26 am"pattern only" is パターンのみWhich looks the same as the actual fuzzy text?The note is probably PCB pattern (footprint) only. But I would say there is no room on the board for CN14, unless a bed of nails?Testing this computer, I guess they used the main CN1.

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2023, 03:44:23 am
content: I realized that though this schematic was in a PC-6001 marked folder, it has PC-6601 in the filename so it must have been something they added later.

author: pdenisowski
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2023, 11:06:01 am
content: Quote from: floobydust on February 26, 2023, 03:36:11 amI also read that as "パターンのみ" I suppose it could be "バターン", but I'm pretty sure that it's not[バターン is the Bataan region of the Philippines]

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2023, 12:37:22 pm
content: There is no CN14 in the schematics I found:https://archive.org/details/pc6001schematic

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2023, 02:09:32 pm
content: Quote from: gamalot on February 27, 2023, 12:37:22 pmSee post #6, the CN14 is part of the PC6601 schematic and not the PC6001 as I was hoping.
If you want some free books (PDF) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: KedasProbe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2014, 01:23:09 pm
content: http://bookboon.com/en/electrical-electronic-engineering-ebooks-zip(Note: PDFs filled with advertising)

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2014, 05:02:04 pm
content: pdf with advertising, sigh.might as well just get it all from the bay and have it stripped of ads and all that BS.

author: old gregg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2014, 06:13:34 pm
content: this one is a gold mine :http://www.rsp-italy.it/Electronics/Books/index.htmMost of the PDFs are about tubes, old vintage equipements and electronic of this time. But I guess that's still good for today purposes. There're also the Bob Pease and Jim Williams articles.I think I'll download all and burn them on a CD/DVD

author: kg4arn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 07, 2014, 10:01:40 am
content: Quote from: old gregg on April 03, 2014, 06:13:34 pmThanks for this. Got a plane trip coming up. Anticipate I'll share with Bob and Jim.
IGBT driver undertanding  and repair help  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Gazello
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2022, 04:28:27 pm
content: Hello,i am trying to fx a welder with a broken h bridge IGBT modul. The driver is partly broken , a zener diode and the npn . I tried to understand the driver, but it is out of my understanding of regular drivers.I think for fast turn off the diode /capacitor arrangement is a negative voltage pump, but not sure.The zener ( seems to be a 2,4 or 2,7V ) makes no sense for me at all.And confusingly nothing to reduse current flow to gate in the upper path , directly connected to gate??It is the same circuit in HIgh side as LW side only flipped the transformer connections .if someone has the patience to explain the current flow and what makes what , i would appreciate it.I draw it maybe in a weird way but it should be right , to check i attached the original pictures and added the red lines for botton traces . Fell free to check if i made a mistake.thanks a lotMArkus

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2022, 04:50:46 pm
content: That seems reasonable enough. The zener and capacitor get charged to some peak voltage during the positive swing (through gate capacitance, I think?), while during negative swing, the transistor is turned on, shunting gate to -V quite aggressively (PBSSxxxx are quite powerful little transistors).Turn-on will be limited by the 56Ω and transformer, so, pretty slow. This is reasonable for a ZVS resonant type inverter, and probably still isn't terrible for a square pulse type forward converter.The transformer should output about 20V peak then, I think, and the transistor sees +15/-5 Vge (if it's more like a 5V zener as I would think to choose, but even a mere 2.4-2.7V will still help out a bit).IGBTs tend not to turn off very well at Vge = 0, and some extra negative bias helps ensure turn-off.Tim

author: Gazello
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2022, 05:04:12 pm
content: Hello Tim,is the turn on not done when the upper transformer leg is positive and directly connected to the gate? , the 56 ohm is in the path for turn off ( turn on the npn)i tried to measure the diode from the good side off the h bridge , but i get results off 1mA 2V , 5mA 2.5V , 20mA 3V . I ordered some 2.4 and 2.7 and compare it.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2022, 05:20:24 pm
content: Ah good, measured at current, so it's very likely 2.7V zener. Gotcha.Turn-on with upper leg positive, yes, through 56R, diode and zener. Zener loses 2-3V (they're fairly soft diodes as you've seen, so the figure is approximate) and diode another 1 or so, hence for Vge(on) = 15V, more like 19V is required. Turn-off through 56R+820R into BJT (with "speed-up" cap so it turns on as the transformer voltage starts to fall, before it even reaches zero voltage or reverses). Not sure why the B-C diode (Baker clamp), maybe they wanted to avoid storage time into turn-on.Tim
IGBT Equivalent need help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: xoom
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2018, 09:09:07 am
content: Hi, im trying to replace IGBT's but problem is that its not manufactured anymore.. It's InfineonSGW30N60..im looking now at equivalents.. can someone more experienced can tell which is better:HGTG30N60A4IKFW50N60DH3Links to datasheets are on names.Device i'm fixing is inverter welder..Thank you for any help

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2018, 09:30:24 am
content: Both are too big, see Qg(tot) figure. Find something smaller (similar Qg, without compromising on the Vce(sat) at or near 30A spec), and comparable speed.Tim

author: xoom
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2018, 09:37:36 am
content: STGW35HF60WDThere is similar.. but less powerfull.. original is 41A 250W this one 200W.. not sure how it affects welding .. maybe not use at max amperage?

author: xoom
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2018, 05:38:58 pm
content: Any confirmation about STGW35HF60WD?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2018, 07:05:31 pm
content: Probably worth trying. Seems slower but I didn't notice if that was measured with a different R_G.If there's a slightly faster grade it might be good (although I'm guessing that might be the fastest grade in its family already, so nevermind). Usually IGBTs come in speed grades, where what's varying is not Qg but an intrinsic property, that trades off with Vce(sat), so you'll probably see that slightly higher on the faster version.Tim

author: xoom
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 07:02:58 am
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on April 16, 2018, 07:05:31 pmThank You, gona try order will see how it goes

author: xoom
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2018, 09:05:17 am
content: Bit late reply, but welder workingthank you again T3sl4co1l
IGBT for negative voltages - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sriniketh
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 09:30:48 pm
content: I need to design a circuit with IGBT to switch -800VDC (negative) with 100A to the load. I need to connect the 0V or ground on collector and -800VDC on the emitter. kindly suggest me ways to achieve this. I am trying with high side low side half bridge circuit with high side low side driver. while doing so, i dont think i understand the reference ground for the logic circuits and power side of the gate driver. kindly helpRegardssriniketh

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 09:36:13 pm
content: You need a fully isolated driver.What's the voltage and load?Tim
IGBT gate emitted protection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: diag7919
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2024, 03:43:22 pm
content: Hi there, I'm fixing a inverter welder, full of SMD. Found a shorted (across C/E) device, ST GWT60H65DFB.. there is a 5k1 resistor and zener in parallel across pin 1 & 3 (G & C), the Zener is shorted but I don't know what the voltage of this Zener is.. there are 3 other igbt with similar zener/resistor network. I removed one of the good zener's and on 15v diode range of my GW121 meter it show o/c.I believe the maximum GC voltage is +-20v so I'm thinking this zener is probably 18v??.. does that sound about ok?, the zener K is on the gateRegards

author: diag7919
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2024, 06:55:59 pm
content: I sussed it.. used process gen/meter on 24v output, connected up a 20k series resistor to limit current then measured across zener, guess I was right with my guess, 17.98v..
igbt high side. how to increase load current - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: elektronJack
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2019, 02:04:04 pm
content: I want to increase the current to a load eg light bulb. which is connected to ground.I would like to be able to increase the current up to 10amps or higher at a later point in my investigations, by manipulating the components of the circuit.I want the igbt on the high side ie between the + and the load and the load then connects to ground -.I'm using an igbt which i can turn off and on using a micro switch.Its all direct current.I dont want replies that refer to driver ics etc. I want it basic at this stage.The igbt I'm using is IKPO6N6OT but its not important at this stage of my investigation.It could be another type.Any helpful basic suggestions regarding circuits, components would be appreciated.*********************************************What is happening in this circuit? There is a diode on the red line allowing current to flow from left to right. There is a 25v 47 microF capacitor on the blue line, + side on the left.The cny17-2 is an optocoupler.Any helpful replies will be appreciate.

author: MagicSmoker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2019, 02:17:27 pm
content: Using a high-side driver IC is by far the simplest solution, but you don't want that so your alternatives are a level shifter and bootstrap charge pump or use a fully isolated gate driver circuit with floating power supply.

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2019, 02:54:42 pm
content: why an IGBT? it'll have a lot of loss at 10A, what voltage? why not use a high side switch?

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2019, 02:55:25 pm
content: What is the voltage? IGBTs are only suitable for use at higher voltages where MOSFETs become uneconomical.

author: elektronJack
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2019, 02:50:39 pm
content: Voltage could be 50v
IGBT numbering question. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TT_Vert
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2019, 02:45:29 am
content: I have a plasma TV which had 5 IGBTs die on it. They are PN FGPF4633s but above that I have 3 different Part #s. 1B09BB, 1B09AP and 1B09CA. Is this some type of manuf. or date code? I see no mention of any of these #s anywhere and looking around it seems the # is arbitrary leading me to think it's something date/plant related. Also this is no longer a produced part but I did find some. In the future is there some replacement for this? Digikey doesn't list it and the other big ones just say it's no longer stocked but no alt. number.Any info would be helpful.ThanksDave

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2019, 03:14:52 am
content: You can disregard those numbers. They're just batch numbers .Date of manufacture ,facility ect. You can just order the FGPF4633 which is a 330 V PDP Trench IGBT'sFGPF4633 is obsolete but you can probably use Any Trench IGBT with similar or greater tolerances. Search FGH80N60FD , FGH80N60FD2 , FGL35N120FTD , FGL60N100BNTD , FGP20N60UFD , FGP5N60LS , FGPF4533 , FGPF4536 , IRG4PC50UD , FGPF50N33BT , FGY75N60SMD , SGF23N60UF , SGP10N60RUFD , SGS5N150UF , NGB15N41CLT4 , NGB18N40CLB , NGB8202A .

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2019, 03:55:03 am
content: Wouldn't suggest substituting higher voltage parts, they'll be slower and not handle the peak current a PDP transistor needs.At a glance, it looks like most of the types are indeed obsolete (at least at Digikey) so you might have to look for old stock.Tim

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2019, 05:35:42 am
content: Yep looks like an Ebay search.

author: TT_Vert
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2019, 02:57:44 am
content: Thank you guys so much! My notification didn't notify me. I did end up sourcing some NOS. Will let you guys know how it goes, this is one of the bigger projects I've taken on. Got lucky finding the Vs shorted to ground. Not so lucky that nearly 1/2 the board was shorted to ground so I had to remove a bunch of components, maybe under heatsinks and hard to get at.Dave
IGBT turn off delay and dead time - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: strawberry
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2018, 12:20:44 pm
content: FGH40T65SPD Td off = 38nS 1370pFIKW40N65ES5 Td off = 184nS 2500pFDo Infineon make slower transistors or is it the way they test them?How to estimate "dead time" ?How much gate drive current is sufficient for 15nF IGBT gate capacitance?

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2018, 06:52:13 pm
content: The testing conditions are different but it looks to me like the Infineon part is slower. There is a trade off between storage time due to minority carriers in the bipolar element and collector-emitter saturation voltage so the Motorola part is faster with a higher saturation voltage and the Infineon part is slower with a lower saturation voltage.

author: AQUAMAN
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2018, 06:56:53 pm
content: Quote from: strawberry on May 17, 2018, 12:20:44 pmHow much gate current you need depends on the switching frequency

author: strawberry
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2018, 08:28:17 pm
content: Isn't that Infineon count antiparallel diode Trr into Td off?For 100kHz (rise time 100nS), Vge = 12V, Cge = 6nF estimated driver current 0.72A seems low

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2018, 10:04:36 pm
content: By the way, note why Td(off) is slower in the first place: when Vge is rising, it's going from 0 to 15V (or whatever they tested at -- I didn't look, it's usually this), and the Miller step falls at, say, 6V. So the gate charges through the total gate resistance (including driver, resistor and internal R_G) from a difference of 15-6 = 9V. When Vge is falling, the Miller step falls at maybe 3 or 4V, so the gate discharges through only 3-4V, or taking about three times longer.You shouldn't drive IGBTs with Vge(off) = 0V, anyway -- besides slow turn-off, they're prone to shoot-through during positive dVce/dt. Better to use -5 to -15V Vge(off), which ensures sharp turn-off as well.Tim

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2018, 10:05:44 pm
content: Quote from: strawberry on May 17, 2018, 08:28:17 pmCge? Don't use that, that's a small signal parameter -- useless. Use Qg(tot). I(drive) = Qg * Fsw, simple as that.(Note that Qg(tot) goes up if you drive more voltage swing, as I recommended above.)Tim

author: strawberry
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2018, 07:57:15 pm
content: Qg(tot) is for loss calculationturn off current must be 3*0.72A=2.16AIs it possible to design dead time circuit without delayed signal?
IGBT TYCO P2081B03  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: backlot93
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 09, 2022, 11:07:44 am
content: Hello, I am new in this forum.I have a Fronius Transpocket 1500 welding machine. The IGBT bridge has brokenAttached a photo, it is the Tyco P281B03 model. I've searched the internet for this model but can't find anything.Where could I find a spare part, or its datasheet or its equivalent.Thank you very much

author: rooppoorali
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2022, 10:36:23 am
content: I think it's a customized IGBT gate made by the manufacturer of this particular machine only. We can't buy any replacement for this.

author: backlot93
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 11, 2022, 08:35:23 am
content: Gracias

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 11, 2022, 08:46:49 am
content: https://www.schweiss-shop.de/fronius/tramod-p281-tyco/183IMP03106592
Ignition coil control with PWM - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Remark
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2023, 04:43:22 pm
content: Hello,Is it possible to control ignition coil, like this:https://www.aliexpress.com/i/1005002247738994.htmlwith PWM using Arduino?I want to control the frequency between the spark. Perhaps there are pre-made modules for this?

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2023, 08:45:13 pm
content: I doubt PWM is the way to go. Multiple Strike Discharge takes advantage of the fact that most ignition circuits have a natural tendency to 'ring' after the first arc occurs and you can 'excite' the coil at that natural frequency for producing a few more arcs. There is a limit to how many times you may want to re-strike the arc. I think the natural resonance usually observed on an oscilloscope is between 25KHz and 100KHz and must be examined to find the 'sweet spot' for your circuit to be most beneficial. You will know if you got it right as the sparkplug electrode wear increases about 5:1 and horsepower gain is 2% to 5%. B.T.W., 'Indexing' your sparkplugs (adjusting the seated position so the 'L' shaped electrode is sitting properly between the valves) could add another .1% to .5% to your power.
Ignition tach using ebay module - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 6PTsocket
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2018, 09:07:34 pm
content: https://www.ebay.com/p/0-56-Digital-Red-LED-Frequency-and-Tachometer-Rotate-Speed-Meter-DC-12-24v/1131861035?iid=280903275997I want a tach for my chainssw that revs up to 12500 rpm and higher. The better ones are 100 bucks and up. I found these 5 digit tach modules on ebay that seem to have a lot of flexibility. There is quite a bit of info in the ad. Apparantly they can read pulses/ sec for a freq.meter or pulses/min for a tach. They also have an adjustable ÷ by function for multi cylinder engines. The one I linked to runs on 5 volts but there are 7-12 and 12-24 volt powered units. The displays are red or blue .56 leds. There seem to be others without a case that have a smaller display. They are supposed to be good to 99999 rpm. I want it hand held and probably wireless. If I get the 7 to 12 volt I am not sure whether a 9 volt battery will handle tha display very long. LCD would be better but it is LED and cheap. My other question and bigger issue is input conditioning. There are two sensitivity settings 3 to 30 and 30 to 300 volts. I have looked at the front ends if tach circuits I found on line. Can I just connect an antenna to a 1k resistor that goes to an input shunted with a pair of back to back 5 volt zeners? They show transisistor inputs as an option but I don't know if that is necessary. Any design advice on front end design and power supply suggestions greatly appreciated. I am sure I can get it to work but I would like to select the easiest one to power up and not blow up the tach with ignition spikes before getting the bugs out. Thanks.Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2018, 09:31:28 pm
content: how about hacking a bike computer instead?https://www.instructables.com/id/Tachometer-made-from-a-bicycle-speedometer-cycloc/

author: 6PTsocket
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2018, 09:40:38 pm
content: Quote from: langwadt on September 23, 2018, 09:31:28 pmThere is no convenient place to stick a magnet. The speed is too low.. i want to run off ignition pulses. Even the freq function on my dmm wirelessly reads off ignition but is reading pulses per sec, not per minute. The tach modules are around 10 bucks. I want to make one of them work. There is no cheaper way you can get 3 refreshes per sec. Look at that spec sheet.Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
IHW25N1202 substitute with GT60M323? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fdk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2023, 01:36:16 am
content: As the title says, can I sub a GT60M323 for a IHW25N1202? Induction stove failed on one side, the 25N1202 is short on all pins, the one on the other side is ok. Original part is obsolete, but the 60M is available. I am not qualified enough to know if that would be a near enough match. I suspect I am missing something very obvious in the specs that someone more experienced would recognise.If it can't be fixed, then quite happy to chuck it out.Thanks!

author: liaifat85
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2023, 01:04:44 pm
content: I wanted to check. But I could not find a datasheet for IHW25N1202. Is the part number correct?

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2023, 02:40:09 pm
content: Similar if not identical 25 A, 1200V IGBT. The GT60M323 is a 31A, 900V part. Part numbers often tell you A and V for a quick comparison.900V is significantly less than 1200V should you risk it, dunno.

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2023, 07:29:19 pm
content: There is a whole mother load if you search IGBT 1200V -https://www.chipdip.ru/catalog/igbt?gq=igbt+1200v

author: fdk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2023, 02:14:41 pm
content: Thanks for the replies. The reason for asking about the GT as a sub was simply as it is what was available. Max voltage probably not an issue for this device, as it seems to be more about high current, and I should point out one of the high current traces from the shorted IGBT had vaporised.On balance, my friend (who I was fixing it for) decided it wasn't worth the risk, so it got thrown out. Had I had the part, curiosity would have got the best of me...and I still wonder, but probably best it's gone all things considered.
IKEA LADDA & Eneloop Pro batteries.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Russ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 05:40:48 pm
content: https://www.slrlounge.com/panasonic-eneloop-vs-ikea-ladda-are-they-the-same/I have been using the IKEA Ladda batteries in my high powered flash units. They are performing very well.Russ

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 06:08:31 pm
content: Member HKJ has a site dedicated to this subject ....https://lygte-info.dk/https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Ikea%20Ladda%20AA%202450mAh%20%28White%29%20UK.html

author: innkeeper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 18, 2018, 09:03:46 pm
content: due to the limited number of manufacturers making such batteries in Japan and the capacity .... its pretty much a given fact that there one in the same.
Ikea Solviden solar powered light teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: josem
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2014, 05:58:42 pm
content: OK, so following Dave's sage advice as soon as I got home from Ikea today with a new Solviden solar light (on sale for £3!) I immediately proceeded to tear it down without turning it onI wanted to see how it charged the included AA 1.2v Ni-MH battery and turned on the 3 LEDs only when it was dark. What I found left me intrigued, which I guess comes down to my inexperience.There's only one tiny PCB with the control circuit, two solar panels connected in series, one switch, the AA Ni-MH 1.2v battery (1000mAh) and a separate board containing a cluster of 3 LEDs connected in parallel.I measured the voltage going to LED cluster with the mutimeter and showed something around 1.2v. Oddly enough it didn't matter if the light was shining or not, the voltage to the LEDs was always around 1.2v.. however the LEDs seemed to "know". A current measurement confirmed this, when there was light shining on the solar panels the current to the LEDs would drop to 0, otherwise there was about 5mA.How can we have a stable voltage but 0 current? Seemed sorcery to me.So I connected my oscilloscope to the LEDs board and something very odd showed up. When it's dark and the LED goes on, I see a stable 1.08-1.4v line, OK makes sense... but when there's light, the solar panels are charging the battery and the LEDs turn off their input becomes these very odd waveforms at about 110kHz.So I guess this why my multimeter is still showing voltage, but the LEDs don't light up?I've traced the schematic of the PCB, hopefully it's correct to the best of my knowledge. There's one IC on the board which I don't know what it is, it has 4 legs and no markings other than "0116".Can anyone explain what's going on and why they decided to do it this way? It's way too smart for me but I'm keen to understand :-)Thanks!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2014, 06:22:45 pm
content: It is a simple switch mode boost converter. When there is light the voltage on pin 1 keeps the oscillator off. When the light drops to a low enough level the IC starts to drive the output by pulling pin 3 low via R3 ( which is actually 10R) and then turning off, with the energy stored in L1 then forward biasing the LED to emit light. This then repeats until the battery is flat or there is daylight again. Those are nice little low power switchers, and work well as a LED driver off a single AA cell in a torch conversion, providing a low power light that lasts a long time. At least that is what I did with one where the solar panel failed after a few months from water ingress, using it to replace an incandescent lensed lamp in a magnifier.

author: josem
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2014, 06:30:46 pm
content: Great explanation! Thanks Sean.(and yes 100 = 10x10^0 nice catch)
IL336 what is this part? Voltage regulator...? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: somuchtyler
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2018, 11:35:46 pm
content: Does anyone know what this IL336 part is? I am trying to figure out what this part is, i believe its a LDO low quintessence voltage regulator? I am basically trying to copy one of those DHT11 shields ().The specs for the part says that it has "DC 3.7V-12V (support 3.7V lithium battery power supply)", looking at the schematic/picture it looks like some type of 5 pin voltage regulator but i am unable to source it from ebay/aliexpress

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2018, 12:25:57 am
content: It looks like a 3.3v linear regulator ... i would guess you have 1. Vdc 2. Gnd 3. EN (10k res to input voltage to enable) 4. Vout 5. not connected or maybe Vout adj (float for 3.3v)if that's the case, you can probably use any 3.3v ldo with dropout voltage less than around 0.5v and (i'd guess up to around 200-500mA of current, based on size of that IC)Lots of regulators with these features, here's a starting point :https://www.digikey.com/short/jwnfw1

author: stefanh
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2018, 12:46:15 am
content: The MIC5233 has this exact pinout in a SOT23-5 package. The typical application circuit also shows 1uF on the input, and 2.2uF on the output.

author: 6PTsocket
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2018, 03:00:41 am
content: I have an old Isotip 60 minute soldering iron. It uses 2 NiCd sub C's and an old fashioned thermal trip to end charge. It is bypassed with a resistor to continue trickle charging the sub C's are something like 1300 mah. The 2 cell pack is long dead. Replacements are acailable, as are much higher capacity NiCd and NiMH cells. I do not use the iron very often so I am looking at LTO (2.4 volt lithium) or Low self discharge NiMH. that hold a charge for a long time. The problem is more logistic than technical. I found one Chinese company that makes an ic that does what those little ebay boards do for the 3.6 volt lithium cells and I doubt if I could get just one. The LTO batteries are available They can be charged at 5C. But the Chinese chip only is good for an amp. As for the low self discharge NiMh, the only maker in sub C seems to be some German company. Farnell has them but I am in the US and Newark lists them but has a $30 sur charge to import them from Europe. Without the thermal trip I might be able to squeeze a couple of C cells in there. My smart charger uses the Delta method to detirmine full charge. I considered an 18650 but I see no reasonable way to get rid of 1.2 volts. A couple of diodes will put a lot of heat inside the case. Any thoughts appreciated.Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Illuminated Tectile Switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sharonabid123@gmail.com
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 28, 2021, 09:46:48 pm
content: Hallo Folks,I want test a illuminated tectile switch. I have choosen one from Marquard 3600 series. I am beginner in electronics. I am not understanding how i can test it. What basic circuit I should use by whcih I can test the switch? you can provide a hand sketch circuit also. I am attaching the block diagram of the switch.Thank you in advance

author: golden_labels
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2021, 01:38:55 am
content: A multimeter with a continuity/diode test?1 to 2 should be open both directions if the button is not presed.1 to 2 should be a short if the button is pressed.A to K should detect a diode no matter the state of the button.BTW: you do realize you have used an email address as your user name and it’s visible to anyone?

author: sharonabid123@gmail.com
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 01, 2021, 07:21:44 pm
content: Hi,Thank you very much, I did the continuety test.Additionally, I want to use the switch in a circuit. For example I want power it with 21 V DC, I want check by pressing if the LED lit or not, if working how the LED looks like. Do you think, the circuit I I have attaced will work.Note: is it better to hide the identity while posting?

author: golden_labels
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2021, 09:36:48 pm
content: Quote from: sharonabid123@gmail.com on March 01, 2021, 07:21:44 pmDepends on what “will work” means. Depending on the values of R1, RKand R2: it may do nothing, may switch LED off if pressed, it may always have LED on, or it may burst into flames.However, since the circuit is a bit weird, I assume it is not as it was intended to be. There is no point in having all three resistors at the same time.Perhaps describe, exactly, what is the goal. You may draw it, ignoring all the components othe than the switch.--- edit:If you are just seeking any circuit that will turn on the LED if the button is pressed, just connect the switch to the LED and add a resistor to set current. See the attachment.Quote from: sharonabid123@gmail.com on March 01, 2021, 07:21:44 pm“Better” depends on the goals. But most people prefer to not announce their meatspace identity to the whole world. And, in particular, their email address to spammers.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2021, 01:12:12 pm
content: set up an alias now!
Illumintaed Switch Issue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: JimboM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 25, 2021, 11:28:01 am
content: Hi,I've built myself a bench power supply from an old ATX PSU taken from an old PC. The power supply is doing what it should other than I can't get the illuminated power switch to behave.To 'power up' the ATX PSU you need to connect a green wire to GND. I've therefore connected the green wire to the + terminal of the illuminated switch and connected GND wires to the other two terminals marked A (this is the load terminal) and GND (think this is purely to light the LED). However when I turn the switch to ON the power supply comes to life but the switch does not illuminate. If I disconnect the A terminal the switch illuminates but the power supply doesn't come on as the green wire is no longer shorted to GNDAny ideas how I can get this setup to work properly?Thanks

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2021, 12:17:59 pm
content: Sounds like you're talking about the power-on signal on the connector. That isn't supposed to provide power for a light, so don't try. Just wire it to the switch part.For the light +, determine what voltage it's supposed to run at and use one of the 3.3V(orange), 5V(red), or 12V(yellow) wires on the connector. You may or may not need an in-line resistor to get it right. All those wires only go live when the power supply starts. Or if you want the light on any time the supply is plugged in, use 5V standby (purple, I think).