hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Samsung Plasma TV PN64E550D1F, Power Board BN44-00515A-Need schematic/specs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Firstdown
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 07, 2020, 09:19:38 pm
content: I have a samsung 64 inch plasma. Problem with power board. One thermister blew, but beside it is, what I believe, a fusible resistor(it has an orange stripe at one end and a green stripe on the other end. On the board there are 2 of them identified on the board with the following number: RA801S and RA802S. I am more concerned with the RA801S as that is the one that has a broken lead wire In order to provide a replacement I need the schematic for this board unless someone has a data sheet for these 2 components or a schematic for the board. A schematic for any of the BN44 boards shown in the attachments would be acceptable as I believe those 2 components are on all those boards Any help would be appreciated. As an FYI, I spoke to a tv repair shop and they indicated there are problems with these tv's stemming from the panel which in turn messes with the power board. Picture of the power board is attached which also shows other BN44 boards that, I believe, are considered, compatible. The original board with the TV blew and when I could not find anything that stood out that was wrong with the board and after doing some testing on some components I purchased another board from Samsung at a cost in excess of $250 it lasted for only 2 months before it blew. Purchasing another board is not an option considering the cost and the length of time that they last, so my intent is to do anything I can to repair the existing one and if all fails I will just junk it. Parts are very inexpensive through Mouser.com vs purchasing a new or refurbished board, but this also provides me with a learning experience. I will, if keep this post updated as to my sucdesses and/or failures(hopefully no failures). The most annoying thing is in trying to do any DIY repairs is why schematics are such a proprietary held secret and not readily available. I remember purchasing electronics in the past(a good number of years ago) a schematic was always provided with your purchase.
Samsung powersupplyboard PD46B2-BDY clicking - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Tony.T
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2024, 10:33:10 am
content: UE40N7005 TV.When powering it on. The relay starts clicking after 10 seconds. Disconnecting the PS:on from motherboard makes it stop and i see that my testlamp is glowing 20%. The mainboard is running and consumes some current.But as soon PS:on is connected the mainboard shuts down the powersupply. if i connect 5V....12V and 63V to the diodes after the transformers from external powersupplies. And of course disconnect the board from mains...everything works. The TV turns on. picture present. So something is not working correcty when it produces its own power.But the confusion that i have now. Is that when connected to mains. Everything is silent...no clicking at all. BUT... The 12V is present....the 85V is present even if the boosting to 135 is not activated for the leds.That DISPITE me doing nothing with PS_ON. When i measure PS_ON it is 3,5V. As soon i ground PS_on....the relay clicks and turns off the mains. in my world..this board should only produce 5V via a smaller transformer...with it does. But no 12V and no 85V swithing. As soon as ps_on is grounded...the switching should start. That would be the normal...RIGHT??? OR???If only 5V was present...and no 12V and no 85V....and if i ground the PS_on and THEN the relay was clicking to turn everything off...then of course it would be exlplainable that something is shorted etc. But now almost all voltages are present...except for the boost part for the leds...from 85V to 135..when doing nothing to ps_on.Can someone explain anything around this? Am i thinking wrong? Any ideas what it could be?Thanks in advance.ohh---in the attached picture. I have marked with red where the tracks go from PS_on. One part goes to a transistor that runs the relay...and also to other part of the card where the optocoupler for 12V is.When external powersupply is used ...i got 1.1V over the optocpupler on the led side..... on all three places....

author: Tony.T
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2024, 04:13:29 pm
content: Well...wrong by me.PS_ON is set to high automatically. To turn tv on. if i pit ps_on = low ...then the board is silent and only 5V present. As soon iturn on tv with remote ...ps_on is set HIGH and board starts SWITCHING.That if i run on external supplies. But as soon i try powerboard against mains then it start clicking. The conclusion is that something is drawing to much current probably and turns off. Must be leds ??!!I opened the screen and removed led. All of them seemed to be ok. Measured sequence by sequence and added all the voltages. Came to 130V which is the same as the board is outputting. So maybe currentdraw to high.if you look at the pinout of leds...there are a lot of lines....the two cables are full of wires. i would be able to turn all the leds on with my ledtester.. to see the current consumption.... any ideas how?Or how to dim the leds and don´t let them draw that much current.....
Samsung Q60R TV , bootloop......need help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: einhander
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2023, 09:45:48 am
content: hi members , I bought my mum a Samsung Q60R back in 2020 and today it has developed a problem.Specifically it's a QA55Q60RAWXXYBelow is a video link of what it is exactly doing.https://www.reddit.com/r/TVRepair/comments/tj7zvh/samsung_q60r_in_a_reboot_loop_after_glitched/I read on Badcaps.net 1 or 2 Diodes can be replaced to get it back to working order. But they didn't mention specifically the specs of them and where to get them.https://badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?p=1063836Has anyone got any tips tricks to fix the problem ?Mum can't go without the Kardashians !chat soon guys
Samsung s20fe glass replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jmaja
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2022, 06:31:26 am
content: I dropped this less than a year old phone from knee height and the whole glass is shattered. The first phone I have ever broken in 25 years having them although I have dropped and thrown them much worse. It was even in a flap leather case, but landed display first on a tiled bathroom floor. The display and touchscreen seems to still work OK, but with a lot of shatter the glass is uneven and blurrs the display locally. Before this I had S8 for four years. Not a sign of use in the display although I dropped it many times on concrete.All the repair shops around here offer just the full display+frame change with steep prices starting from 199€.You can buy just the front glass at 10-30€ typically with some tools.I have whatched a couple of glass replacement videos. Seems rather straight forward until in the end they always put the phone in two different machines. What are those? Any change of success with just a heat gun?
Samsung S32D850T powers off after some minutes, requires removal of mains power  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: remaker
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 21, 2023, 01:16:41 am
content: I foundhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/samsung-32-s32d850t-monitor-repair-story/while searching for reasons why a dumpster-rescue monitor is failing.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/profile/?u=495603(@sausage) has been helpful through private communicaiton but I thought I'd ask more here. (Can you tag users on this forum?)The unit works, but will power down at arbitrary times. Can be a few minutes, can be longer.The PC announces that the monitor has been unplugged and reconfigures the displays as if it has been removed.All panel buttons are inoperable.Pulling mains power and waiting a few moments, it can power on again.I hypothesize that the KF12N60F MOSFET is marginal, since that seems to be a common failure, so I ordered one, thought it will take a long time to arrive.Any suggestions of interim things to try?I chipped away the silicone (?) adhesive. I know some adhesives from distant past times, some adhesives have become conductive by breakdown or contamination over time. Is that a possibility here? I'm presuming not, but all that goop on the metal leads have me pause. I wonder why this part fails so often? Should I look for an upgraded part?I also plan to use CPU grade heatsink compound on the reinstall.I welcome any thoughts.

author: hummerjanne
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2023, 04:40:37 pm
content: Have you tested the KF12N60F MOSFET with a multimeter?When you say all panel buttons, do they not work at all when turned on or off?Have you checked the button connection or where it connects?

author: remaker
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 29, 2023, 03:48:36 pm
content: I replaced the KF12N60F MOSFET, which seems to be a problematic device in the power supply.That did not fix the problem. Oh well.To clarify the failure mode: The screen goes blank, all panel lights go off, the PC registers a disconnect of the monitor, and the panel is unresponsive. The only way to recover is to remove power from the monitor for 5-10 seconds and plug it back in.The buttons all work fine when the unit has power and is not in this "crashed" mode.The time between power off events does not seem to have a pattern to it.

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2023, 05:37:51 pm
content: Since unplugging it is the thing, standby thingies may have a role.
[removed] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2020, 08:44:07 pm
content: try to find each part datasheet around this coil, you may find an application note .....Or try to get a service manual for it ??Or check for some photos of the board on Ebay and other tv / monitor parts re-seller(s) you may get lucky

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2020, 10:49:08 pm
content: What are the markings on IC1101?

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2020, 11:32:32 pm
content: Beats me to this conclusion myself loll , i did find another board based on this ic, SAMSUNG T19C350EX it give the same coil value "220"
Samsung SyncMaster 204B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tuo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2019, 04:36:24 pm
content: Hi,I have a failing Samsung SyncMaster 204B. I know that Dave did a repair video on this monitor several years back, where he did swap the capacitors to new ones. And I have actually done that already more than two years ago swapping the old CapXons to Panasonic ones, as the monitor was failing the first time. So now when the picture sometimes seems to be colorless or lacking one color or the monitor is not starting properly, I thought that I would be the big primary side cap, that is now dying. But there was no bulging to be seen on it and after I swapped that one to Nippon Chemicon, the situation got better but not totally fine (the symptoms are a bit rarer now).So I suspect that the fault is still on the power supply board. So can there be another component that is failing, or should I start to go through the solder joints and connectors, if there's a crack in a joint or bad connection with a connector?Cheers,Tuomas

author: tuo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2019, 01:03:36 am
content: So it seems that the problem is coming more constant now, after the last cap replacement normally turning the monitor off and back on again resolved the problem. It seems, that I'm taking this apart tomorrow again.A couple of photos of the problems I have:

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2019, 09:40:33 am
content: Quote from: tuo on December 14, 2019, 04:36:24 pmthis is hard to spot.Sometimes I poke around with a wood stick to checkcold LEAD FREE crappy joints.They sometimes look excessive dry with proper light under scopePaul

author: magic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2019, 10:20:46 am
content: If you use analog VGA cable and random colors are disappearing that's usually failing cable or maybe VGA input on the monitor.

author: tuo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2019, 02:47:51 pm
content: I tested both VGA and DVI-inputs and the problem was on them both.Now I opened the monitor and reflowed the caps, that I have changed. And as I was putting it back again, I noticed that the cable from the control PCB to the panel was raised on one end of its connector. So of course I stucked it back again.Everything works now, as they did after I last time opened the monitor and changed that big cap. Now if the situation stays the same for some days, then I think that it is now fixed.

author: tuo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2020, 08:37:58 am
content: I gave up on this monitor, as the problems were coming back again and again. I opened it couple of times more and these times the connections were fine, I tried reflowing some points that seemed not so good, but in the end the monitor worked for a while and started to fail again. So I decided, that it is too old for a total check to find the problem.
Samsung SyncMaster SA100 HDMI Motherboard (30 pins) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: impcfan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 16, 2025, 05:51:54 pm
content: Hi everyone,I'm hoping someone with experience in monitor repair might be able to offer some guidance. I have a Samsung SyncMaster SA100 (model number S19A100N), which is a 17-inch LED monitor. I suspect the RGB IC is failing or has failed, as I'm experiencing display issues, distorted / flickering colors.I'm looking to replace the RGB IC with HDMI but am having trouble identifying the exact component. I was hoping someone might:Know where I can get HDMI motherboard (30 pins) that might be compatible with SyncMaster SA100 model (S19A100N)?It would be great if the motherboard has HDMI only, no VGA and DVI in it because I found a link where it was 50 pins motherboard for the same model with HDMI, VGA and DVI.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2025, 06:12:12 pm
content: rgb ic is a thing of the past, the lcd panel is addressed differently,you have the processor section and most lcd have on them or on the flex cable an interface ic who do the processing decoding if i may saybefore anything try to find a service manual and try to understand how they work, they are not tv's anymore, you can or coul dhave power supply problems like capacitors, or the lcd panel itself ...search google for : Samsung S19A100N you have youtube videos and other thingssome service manual with images etc ... but in chineesehttps://elektrotanya.com/samsung_s19a100n_ch_l1s19ns-wva7_s22a100n_ch_l1s22ns-wda3.pdf/download.htmlhttps://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/monitores/samsung-esquemas-monitor/samsung-s19a100n-s22a100n-35702/english ?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2025, 07:25:06 pm
content: Photo of PCB:https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H662a939e20a143358bb0174bae8185e3K.jpg
Samsung Tablet A9 X115 Repair, Fixing a Dead Short at the Charger Input - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: hesam.moshiri
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2025, 06:07:20 pm
content: In this video, I walk you through the process of repairing a Samsung Tablet A9 X115 that had a dead short at the charger input, it cases the tablet not to charge. Whether you're a DIY enthusiast or just curious about electronics repair, this step-by-step guide will show you how to diagnose and fix the issue.
Samsung TV bypass side COF? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: argos
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 01, 2019, 12:11:36 pm
content: Hey There,I got a samsung 55 inch led TV pretty cheap. It has some horizontal lines in it. I took it apart and found a blown side COF.Is there a possibility to bypass this COF?For example use the COF on the other side to do the work also for the burned COF?Is this possible?Greetings

author: TheMG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2019, 12:50:10 am
content: Nope. Sadly, at this point the whole LCD panel is scrap. The only way this could be repaired is if you happened to have the exact replacement COF and even then you would need specialized equipment to properly bond the new COF to the LCD panel.Unfortunately, the TV would be considered "beyond economical repair" at this point.
Samsung TV keeps changing speaker setting back to TV Speakers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: gmilliken
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 18, 2023, 07:18:16 am
content: Problem with Samsung Smart TV -- it is attached to an external sound bar and the Speaker Setting has been set to "Receiver". This has been working great for years. The set recently developed a white spot on the screen, which I subsequently found was all too common on aging Samsung TVs (a damaged or disconnected reflector light). But in following various suggestions about ways to try to fix the issue without either taking apart the set or totally replacing it, I did a full factory reset including pressing the power button for 30 seconds and leaving the set unplugged for 30 minutes. After that, the white spot was (of course) not changed, so it's a hardware issue. But NOW, the set will not retain its Speaker Setting -- when we set it to Receiver, it uses the sound bar fine on AV source (USB ports), but any time we change the source back over to HDMI port (our cable TV box), the setting changes back to TV Speaker. Since it happened after my factory reset, it seems like the reset caused the sound problem -- no idea if this is accurate. Could simply be that the TV is getting old and things happen...Any idea what I might try for this, short of throwing the set away and buying a new one? We're fully accustomed to watching the set with the white spot on the screen, but the sound problem is unacceptable.
Samsung TV QA75Q7FNAW Service Manual - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 02, 2024, 02:09:06 am
content: I'm looking for a service manual for a dumpster Samsung 75" QA75Q7FNAW TVOr really, just advice on how to get the rear panel off so I can try and put 350V DV up it's clacker to see if the panel is working or not.No obvious screws holding the back panel on, and a spudger around the outside lifts it off a bit , but there seem to be no catches at all.So just seeing if anyone know before I go medieval on it's arse. Thanks.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2024, 04:48:00 am
content: Seems close if not the same:

author: Josec
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2024, 03:33:26 am
content: May be is like this?

author: jnk0le
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2024, 09:53:08 pm
content: Different model but, in my case wire pull didn't work.Can't find the exact video with fullest explanation, but this one is the closest to how it works:https://youtu.be/g0ojfT2rJtQ?si=NB2cQrZdMSg6ET52&t=113The unit was most likely dumped due to burned backlight leds. Which, of course, burn together with the diffuser.
Samsung UA50J5500: Standby voltage fluctuating - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: keerthi123
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2020, 01:07:22 am
content: I am working with a Samsung UA50J5500 and backlight works when logic board disconnected also standby power steady at 13.00V. When connected to logic board, 13 goes to 9 and 13 again drop to 9 and goes on as a cycle, what are the possibilities?logic board: BN41-0235, PSU: BN44-00704E
Samsung UA55HU7000 TV: HAVDD missing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: keerthi123
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2020, 04:59:59 am
content: I am working with a Samsung UA55HU7000 TV and backlight and sound works (volume up and down sound checked). But no picture. T-Con was replaced with a new one and still the result is same. Even with the old T-Con and new T-Con found that some voltages are missing. I feel the heat of main IC of the T-Con.HAVDD: 0VAVDD: 0VVCC3.3: 3.3VVCC 1.15: 1.1VWhat can be further investigates. Appreciate any support.
Samsung UE40D5720 horizontal and vertical line - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: peterkos2
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2021, 05:32:08 pm
content: Hello everyone. There is a dotted vertical line and two horizontal lines on this TV. Can you advise me what it could be? well thank you

author: KevinA
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2021, 10:22:06 pm
content: Could be the T Con board, but it could also be the LCD display itself.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 06, 2021, 10:30:20 pm
content: Quote from: KevinA on February 06, 2021, 10:22:06 pmNearly zero chance for that. It's LCD panel failure. Driver chip/LCD bonding failure with FPC cable or faulty driver chip.

author: peterkos2
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2021, 09:59:06 pm
content: Thank you for advice. Maybe the pixels can be restored, I'll try again
Samsung ue55ks8000 uhd tv won't start up - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Droogkloot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 18, 2020, 11:48:46 pm
content: Hi, i'm new on this forum but i'm here to get some help with a samsung tv.What it does is when powered on the backlight flashes on and then goes out. With the t-con board and all other connectors disconnected from the mainboard the problem is still there.When i disconnect the mainboard the backlight stays on.I have checked the caps on the output side of the power board, these tested ok.I have swapped out the power supply board, this didn't solve it.Does anyone here have experience with this kind of stuff?I have made a short recording of this problem..

author: JKKDev
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2020, 06:01:13 am
content: Can you determine if the issue is with the backlight or something else? Is picture present when the backlight is off (to check use a flashlight at an angle almost parallel to the screen and you should see some resemblance of an image/letters/whatever should be displayed)?You could find the backlight enable pin and see if it corresponds to the backlight turning on and off.Just a few questions to start on

author: Droogkloot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 11, 2020, 11:16:45 am
content: Hi. I have looked at it. No picture or letters on the screen. Only the backlight going on and off. Could it be a voltage regulator issue on the mainboard? If so what is the best way to test it?
Samsung UE55KS8090 with vertical stripes - Tcon-board?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Jimmy1911
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 27, 2020, 04:46:03 pm
content: Hello. I have a Samsung UE55KS8090 that has stripes as shown here:http://imgur.com/a/HP551KUIt's about 4 years old and suddenly has this problem. These stripes turn on and off, I think this might be because it is only showing a message about how the box is not connected or something, not sure. I took some more images here:http://imgur.com/a/6VLPHDNAlso made a video:https://youtu.be/km3zPlEoUVoI read that this points to a faulty tcon board or faulty connector(s). There was some damage to a stripe (as seen in Image below), I suspect it's the connection to the panel. There is a hole in it:http://imgur.com/a/0NcQIiIHow high is the possibility that it's not completely gone? Thank you!

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2020, 06:36:59 pm
content: Quote from: Jimmy1911 on December 27, 2020, 04:46:03 pmThat means it's time to scrap the TV, there's no way you will be able to repair this.R.I.P

author: Jimmy1911
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 28, 2020, 01:39:14 pm
content: Thank you for your answer. That's a shame to hear...It is what it is though, so I will be looking for a new device.
SAMSUNG UE60F6100K Repair (TV) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Callum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2024, 07:35:24 am
content: HiThe aeriel has snapped of my SAMSUNG UE60F6100KI am looking at replacement mainboards on ebay.My TV has the board model number: BN94-06233DCan I use the board from the Samsung UE40F6100AK, board number BN94-06532X?They look identical and it is half the price.Or are there any schematics available where I can compare the two?Thank you

author: Callum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2024, 02:48:58 pm
content: I contacted Samsung repair service and they said Samsung’s system does not list these boards as being alternatives of each other, we would not recommend you use that board.So I just bought the same board and installed it today. TVs back and running again.
Samsung UN32F5500AF backlight troubleshooting.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2024, 08:06:29 pm
content: Last night TV powered up and then lost backlight after a few seconds (confirmed with flashlight), rebooting would sometimes get a flicker out of it. It is my assumption this points to either the backlight drive portion of the power supply (which looks to all be on the cold side of the power board) or the strips themselves since the computer and LCD are still running fine.I went over that part of the power supply board with a DMM and checked all power diodes, electrolytic capacitors (no ESR test, just a visual and capacity in tolerance), and diode checked the two power MOSFETs, all look good. No cracked solder noted and TV was given a smack test before disassembly. When powered up I measured something like 190V on the 250V backlight driver input smoothing capacitor and 124V on the 200V output cap, which makes me think the driver (looks to be a buck converter) is running and the problem is likely the strips.Does all that sound right? Just looking for some verification I'm barking up the right tree before I blow $20 on a set of LED strips from China. I don't have a suitable power supply handy to test the strips and don't fix TVs often enough to justify having one.

author: kemet2330
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 27, 2024, 10:23:05 pm
content: Sounds like it needs one more smack test.

author: indeterminate
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2024, 12:45:47 am
content: It sounds like a blown led or bad crimp connector, you wont know until you open it up.the point where it has failed is frequently burnt.
SAMSUNG UN39EH5003 SCHEMATIC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2020, 03:10:35 pm
content: Hi there.. I have to check some points on the modelalready on the benchSAMSUNG UN39EH5003 SCHEMATICThe service and repair guide already exists on somepaid per view sites.. any hand appreciated on thisThanksPaul

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2020, 08:20:12 pm
content: Are any of these suitable?https://elektrotanya.com/samsung_UE40EH5000_bn44_00496a_sch.pdf/download.htmlhttps://elektrotanya.com/showresult?what=UN39EH5003&kategoria=&kat2=all

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2020, 12:26:02 pm
content: Quote from: fzabkar on December 27, 2020, 08:20:12 pmYes right on the spot.. the test points with voltages are there..The piece attached failed the first OHM probing checkon the power board.. it is dead shorted.I am having a hard time identifying the label becausethe board is coated with a strong varnish that clouds thecodes..It looks like a Schottky likehttps://br.rsdelivers.com/product/on-semiconductor/mbrs340t3g/on-semi-40v-4a-schottky-diode-2-pin-do-214ab/1138677but the SMD marking as usual is not related with ONSEMI internaldatasheet reference codes.. (like MBRS340T3G)If anyone has a clue about what is this piece codedrop a handy help...Thanks a lot fzabkar.. appreciatedPaul

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2020, 02:26:41 pm
content: these f*** SMD codes wastes my patienceU3J MURS320T3 FR diodeshttps://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MURS320T3-D.PDFblabla ultras fast .. resilient... dead shorted.Paul

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2020, 05:18:50 pm
content: http://www.smdmark.com/en-US/search/code?id=u3jThe first link in my previous post has a circuit diagram.

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2020, 05:03:53 pm
content: Quote from: fzabkar on December 28, 2020, 05:18:50 pmThat circuit does help a lot. Although some light differentthings they almost match.That diode is technically shorted by those resistorswith less than 3 ohm to ground. That is why deceivesany instrument while blinding ohm probing.Assuming that is just a clamper and will probe all board againusing that schema as support..Thanks again...Paul
Samsung WF45M5500A laundry washer control board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rhb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2022, 11:08:51 pm
content: Rather a long shot, but just in case.Does anyone know anything about these? CN202 has Rx & Tx lines, but I'm not able to communicate with it and the presence of a terminal alters the behavior.Thanks,Reg
San Cooler 92 Series 12 VDC 92 mm - pinout - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: stafil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 07:52:13 pm
content: Need some advice...I needed a quieter replacement for a San Cooler 92 Series, 12 V, DC, 92 mm.I stupidly bought a BeQuiet Silent Wings 92, without thinking about it too much, but the pin-out is different. One is GND-Tach-Power, while the other is GND-Power-Tach.Any idea how do I search for compatible pinouts in mouser or digikey? Didn't expect them to be different.Or shall I just get a new plug and change the pinout of the BeQuiet?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 07:58:59 pm
content: All fans for PC usage will be the same pinout: GND-Power-Tach (I actually forget which is pin 1, but power is definitely in the middle). Anything else will be pot luck (mostly supplied without a connector).If it's a typical KK series connector you can just depin it and move them around.

author: stafil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 08:09:16 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on May 12, 2020, 07:58:59 pmIt's for an old oscilloscope and it's GND-Tach-Power.Yeah, it's a KK series connector. Sorry didn't know the name. Any idea what tools I need to move them around?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 08:16:49 pm
content: Quote from: stafil on May 12, 2020, 08:09:16 pmA knife suffices. Slide the pin fully forwards, press firmly down on the locking tab and push the pin back, and you should be able to remove it from the housing. Just bend the tab up again with the blade gently and you can reuse it.

author: stafil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 08:27:01 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on May 12, 2020, 08:16:49 pmThanks, worked like a charm!

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2020, 02:18:49 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on May 12, 2020, 07:58:59 pmNope not all computer fans have the same pinout, 3 pins or 4 pins, i have proprietary fans who doesnt respect that "Universal pinout"Had to take a needle, push the small lock in the connectors and redo the pinout.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2020, 02:51:11 pm
content: Quote from: coromonadalix on May 13, 2020, 02:18:49 pmAll fans sold retail for the PC market will have the same 3 or 4 pin arrangement. There is, in fact, a standard for this.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2020, 08:24:44 pm
content: Until you play in Dell, Hp, Lenovo ... and other "big Brands" even if the board is supposed to be standard id and model naming in some case : eatx, atx and others size mobo ...Thats why i wrote "proprietary"
sandisk cruser edge usb stick - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2024, 10:04:50 am
content: i have a 16gb cruiser edge usb stick,it was working ok but now wont let me write or format it,it says read only mode,it wont let me change it,ive tried on both a win 7+10 pc,any ideas?.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2024, 10:23:18 am
content: It is not unusual for thumb drives and SD cards to go into read only mode when approaching end of life. This is a deliberate action to minimise data loss. You should copy off everything you need asap. The condition is not reversible.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2024, 10:28:25 am
content: Yes it detected a flash cell block was bad, reallocated it and recovered the data using ECC, and has run out of spare blocks internally. Nothing you can do, it just does the read only so you can recover as much data as possible, and you need a new one.

author: py-bb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2024, 11:55:33 am
content: Quote from: p.larner on February 05, 2024, 10:04:50 amMemory sticks do that when they're naffed. It's fail(ed|ing) internally, this is basically your last chance to get data off.IME with SanDisk it's usually too late and you'll have naffed jpegs and stuff but this is anecdotal and they don't publish what qualifies as naffed, but yeah it's dead and it's telling you.Because of the way flash works ("FTL mapping" and juggling space) vs say (CMR) drives it can basically say "nah I'm screwed" with authority and know it through routine use.
Sanity check for a component on a receiver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: n3vti
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2021, 09:41:41 pm
content: Hey guys, it's been forever since I've been here on this forum. (But that's a different story, different topic.) I'm doing a repair on an old stereo receiver. The part I'm looking for is a 50 Ohm, 1 Watt resistor, and unfortunately, I don't have one. However, I do have 150 Ohm, 1/2 watt resistors. Could I use 3 of them in parallel (would give me the 50 ohms I need) and still get the same result? I can't remember if Power adds up in a parallel circuit, or if it stays the same. This is just more of a sanity check for me.Thanks in Advance,Chuck

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2021, 09:46:11 pm
content: That should be OK.Each 150 ohm resistor passes a current of I/3, so the combined power dissipation of 3 resistors is ...Code:P = 3 x (I/3)^2 x 3R = 3 x I^2 / 9 x 3R = I^2 x Rwhere R is the resistance of the 50 ohm resistor and I is the total current.

author: n3vti
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2021, 12:08:58 am
content: OK, that's what I thought. I kinda figured the substitution would work, but wanted to double check and confirm before I did anything. It's an old receiver (1975) and I don't wanna let the magic smoke out.

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2021, 12:21:12 am
content: A 47 ohm resistor would be in spec - you could measure a few to get a little closer to 50.It would make no difference in an audio circuit.
Sanken 2SC3264 transistors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Axtman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2024, 04:09:17 am
content: I assume by now the world's supply of real Sanken 2SC3264 transistors are used up and the only ones for sale are fake. Does anyone know where I could buy some real ones? Thanks.

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2024, 04:31:06 am
content: Quote from: Axtman on January 28, 2024, 04:09:17 amUnfortunately Sanken dropped all the M200 transistors. You can still find them here and there but usually are not cheap. I got a few 2SC2922 from Aliexpress and ebay and they turned out fine. If they are selling for under $10 a piece from either Ali or Ebay now they are likely used salvaged junk. The first 10 I got were ordered from Turkey for around $6 a piece and they work great. But that was about 5 or 6 years ago just before they were discontinued.All I can say is stay away from those "to good to be true" sales at a $1 to $2 per piece.Unfortunately they are usually sold as complimentary pairs. If they are a dark black with bright white lettering stay away. They should be a dark grey colour.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2024, 08:35:02 am
content: If you're desperate ...https://www.nteinc.com/search.phphttps://www.nteinc.com/specs/10to99/pdf/nte92.pdfI haven't shopped around, but they're $10.80 from this mob ...https://www.onlinecomponents.com/en/nte-electronics/nte92-12013443.html
Sansui SE-99 Graphic Equalizer VFD row intermittently stuck on - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: GnatGoSplat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2022, 11:53:52 pm
content: I have a 1987 vintage Sansui SE-99 Graphic Equalizer, its left channel VFD has a row intermittently stuck on.Here is the schematic for that display board.I've narrowed the problem down to the P5 pin on the VFD. Compared to the properly working right channel VFD (which seems identical), P5 should be -38V. When the row is stuck on, it's anywhere from +9V to +20V. When it's working properly, it's close to -38V like the rest of the "P" pins (except P14: that's 24V on both VFDs, which I'd guess is illuminating the static tickmark indicators).Looking at the driver transistor for P5 (nQ36), Emitter is seeing about +25V, like the rest of them. Collector is directly connected to VFD P pins. Base and cathode of 20V zener nDZ12 is about +22V while on the rest are just over +24V. The anode of nDZ12 is around +3V while the rest are +4.2V.When switched off, -38V is still energized. All the VFD "P" pins show close to -38V except P5 which is closer to -2V. I think nR67 100Kx6 maybe the pull-down resistors for P1-6 and initially I suspected maybe it's open and not pulling down P5, but that turned out not to be the case because when unplugged, I do measure 100K between it and the -38V line (and 200K between it and the other P pins).I did try resoldering the P5 pin, nR67, nQ36, nDZ12, and PC0 pin of the MCU which I initially thought worked, but then the problem came back.Normally at this point, I would go brute force and start swapping parts to see if the problem moves, but the parts are all underneath the VFD which I'd have to desolder, so I'm trying to think this through first.Could P5 be shorted to P14 inside the VFD itself? It's 200K between P5 and P14 as expected. No obvious short.Could P5 be shorted to a grid pin of the VFD itself? VFD is multiplexed and my meter's analog bargraph flickers and numbers bounce a lot on the Grid pins, indicating to me they are pulsed. P5 when showing incorrect positive voltage, is rock-solid stable (though I do not have an oscilloscope to verify). I would think a P-G short would result in the voltage seen on P5 as also being pulsed.Could nQ36 be intermittently leaky between C-E? Do transistors ever even fail intermittent? Could a C-E leak also explain the slightly lower voltages on nDZ12?I'm also unclear on how the 20V zener diodes (i.e. nDZ12) are being used. Are they being used to pull up the MCU pins to approximately +5V by subtracting 20V?Anything else I should be looking at?
Sanwa PC7000 broken CAP value [Help] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ahmad_k
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2025, 05:28:54 am
content: Hello, I have a Sanwa PC7000 which had some issue reading low resistance value and slow settling when measuring voltages and also resistors. So I open it and I found a lot of bad cold solder joints. I fix them all but one of this cap's legs was broken. It looks suspicious even before I tried to re-solder it. Anyway all readings are way more accurate now and very stable.Anyone know what is the value of this cap and its rated voltage ? it is a big Cap (5x3 mm). I tried to read its value by sticking a needle probe on the side of the broken pad and it shows 2.7nFBut what about its voltage rating ? is 2.7nF reasonable ?

author: danno_cj
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2025, 01:14:51 pm
content: Your meter share the same design with Brymen BM869 which is more widely spread here. If someone with Brymen meter read this could help you more than me. I will take the highest voltage rating available for that package.

author: ahmad_k
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2025, 02:06:09 pm
content: Someone told me that the 2.7nF capacitor I am describing is almost certainly the ARC suppression capacitor that is placed across the switch that changes between measurement mode and he said that in multiple multimeter designs (Fluke, Sanwa, etc.), the capacitor used is a 2.2nF to 3.3nF, 250V AC rated film capacitor. 2.7nFI hope someone have information about it.
sanyo 3lcd projector plc-xu75 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: kokodin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2019, 08:21:48 pm
content: Hello, i would like to ask you for help, mostly in finding a place where i could discuss the issue with my projector.Problem with the device is not electronical, it is more of an optical one. Therefore i am more interested in informations if there is any forum or other form of community that helps with repairs of multimedia projectors and similar equipment. However if you know what went wrong with it i would be gald for any information that can help.Device in question is Sanyo plc-xu75 3lcd projector (2500 lumen 1024x768 with only analog inputs)I rescued this projector 2 years ago for 10$ out of a truck with broken computer equipment going to a landfield. I bought 5 projectors and 4 of them (including this one) were fully restored to working order with little to no effort. However this particular projector have color issue, which manifests as left side of the screen being slightly tinted red and right side is slightly tinted cyan. It is mostly visable on white images or when entire screen is moving from side to side, eg. paning panorama shots . To make things even more frustrating for me, lamp i have is an oryginal bulb in non oryginal module. And i did go trough entire service manual many times, doing all provided adjustments, which should fix color issues. Nothing helped. I even replaced entire optical unit part by part, everything expect the bulb. And the bulb itself was bought new, because projector was missing one from the start. So the lamp should not be the problem either, unless i was very unlucky.If you have experience in fixing sanyo projectors or you know someone who has, please let me know.thanks

author: angelicajames
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 30, 2019, 05:54:33 pm
content: I'm not an expert in this but I think the lamp is broken, If you're having the color issue it's probably the bulb issue.
Sanyo Denki A7-1-10047-1D  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: MrWifiHifi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2024, 02:01:32 pm
content: HelloA friend of mine is rebuilding a Brother TC-221 CNC from the original system to LinuxCNC, he uses the original spindle converter and also the original drivers for the XYZ motors, there are synchronous servo motors. I would like to find out if by any chance someone does not have access to the schematics for the synchronous drivers, as the driver for the X axis has gone wrong. After enabling the motors, the motor starts up to maximum speed and stops, displays an error. LinuxCNC does not ask for any speed. According to the preliminary diagnosis, we determined that the IGBT transistors must have gone, but if I had a diagram, we could verify it 100%.I will be grateful if someone has a schematic for those synchronous motor drivers.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2024, 03:15:16 pm
content: maybe there ?https://www.cnczone.com/forums/uncategorised-metalworking-machines/111185-brother-tc-211-retrofit-upgrade-possibilities.htmlhttps://www.cnczone.com/forums/uncategorised-metalworking-machines/22633-cnc.html

author: MrWifiHifi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2024, 10:00:55 am
content: HelloI didn't get much from that forum. It would help if someone had datasheets for the Sayno circuits, specifically the BS14062, SH30305, SH2004B, SH2035, SH2016 and SH3050 circuits. I couldn't find any info on these circuits, but maybe someone has access to at least some information.
Sanyo Plus 55 receiver project. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Arty30
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2023, 03:04:16 pm
content: Hello all, been a while since I've had anything to do on this forum, busy with college and things, but now it's spring break and I'm moving on to another silver-face receiver project. Apparently since I'm a sucker for punishment, I got another of Sanyo's plus series receivers from 1979, the next level down from my Plus 75 that I've done a lot of work to. Still not totally sorted that thing out but I probably never will, anyway, it looks the same as the plus 75 on the outside, but is almost completely different on the inside. The only similarities are the quartz lock and digital counter(VFD) boards, and it uses STK-0050 Darlington power packs, it might also use the same tuner board. I just got done replacing the 40 year old electrolytic caps and it sounds great, no hum, hiss or any sound quality issues, the only thing that's wrong is in the AM and AUX modes, the balance is a fair bit off, the right channel is quiet. FM and Phono mode are balanced when the control is in the middle, but not AM or AUX. AM also doesn't sound good in the right channel, I would say distorted, but its kind of like a mic that's peaking really bad. I don't know if AM and AUX balance issues could be related somehow, they are off balance by the same amount, and I definitely don't know my way around am circuits, but i want to know what people think, perhaps you could put in their two cents for things to check or test. I will keep the thread updated on my findings, thanks.Arthur (Arty).
Saphhire R9 390X 8 GB, sources not present - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: andreiut
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 01, 2022, 11:00:27 am
content: Hi everyone!I’m new to this kind of job, i have an experience of around 15 years in electronic repairs but not so many in GPU’s repairs.So, today, i’m facing a problem with my own R9 390 Saphhire edition.So, all the ohms readings are fine (according to other YouTube videos), Vmem, Vcore, Display Rail, VRM ohms reading are good.The problem is that all of my sources (except for 5V And 3.3 volts) are missing.I know that the firing order for this card is:5V -> 1.8V (which is not present. The controller will Take 5 And 3.3 volts, but nothing on the output, because His Enable pin will read 0.3volts, which is not enough for His 1.8V output signal) -> Display Rail (0.9v rails which is absent, due to no 1.8V signal) -> Vmem (absent, due to 0.9V rail) -> Vcore (also absent)So, my question will be:Who exactly will give command to this 1.8V source to power on?From where does that 0.3 volts enable pin comes?There should be over 0.4V in order to generate 1.8V signal to start the other sources of this card.Hope i didn’t miss any Informations.I didn’t included the ohms reading of vcore, vmem, display rail And other because i tought they might not be relevant now, since my problem is that i can’t get the general rails to start.I’m stucked on the second rail, only the first one: 5V rail is present And corect.Thanks!