hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Wanted to share my recent project which combines Ableton with Javascript - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: daniel.aagentah
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 28, 2024, 11:12:49 am
content: I’ve created an audio-visual setup within an Electron application that caters to both exhibition settings and live performances. This setup is capable of processing a variety of data inputs, including OSC and MIDI, and utilizes a range of technologies such as P5.js, Three.js, D3.js, TouchDesigner embeds, and WebGL for visualizations. Here’s how I've structured it:Input HandlingBased on the performance context, I switch between different data inputs:Exhibition Setting: I use OSC data to drive the visuals.Live Performance Setting: I prefer MIDI data to trigger changes in the visuals.Dashboard and Module ConfigurationThrough my personal dashboard, I select which visual modules to display, along with configurations such as layout, color schemes, and which modules should be primary, secondary, or tertiary.Inter-Process Communication (IPC)My Electron app includes multiple windows, such as a dashboard and a projector window. I communicate settings and state changes from the dashboard to the projector window using Electron's IPC mechanism to ensure that updates are synchronized in real-time.Visual Modules and Data ProcessingUpon receiving OSC or MIDI data, the projector window decides which methods to activate on the selected visual modules. These modules are dynamically loaded from separate files and can utilize various web technologies for the visualizations.Real-Time InteractivityFrom the dashboard, I have the flexibility to swap modules, add overlays, and adjust visual parameters on the fly, enabling a highly dynamic and interactive performance experience.Technical Implementation HighlightsModule Loading and Setup: I dynamically load modules by scanning a directory for .js files. Both primary and secondary visual components are initialized from these modules.Throttling and Input Processing: I process inputs from OSC or MIDI with throttled functions to balance the execution frequency of visual triggers, which helps maintain performance without losing responsiveness.Dynamic Layout and Styling: My visuals can adapt to different aspect ratios and background styles based on user selections, providing versatility for various display environments.Real-Time Control and Feedback: I've built the system to support real-time module switching, layout adjustments, and visual effects tuning from the dashboard, with feedback mechanisms from the projector window.Instead of uploading big videos here, I thought it'd make more sense to link my instagram:https://www.instagram.com/daniel.aagentah/
Washing Machine Motor Control Speed-Power Lathe Machine Saw - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gevv
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2024, 06:57:16 pm
content: Hi, a simple and cheap circuit to start the washing machine engine externally. Soft start, Speed control high torque power.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2024, 07:22:28 pm
content: OK.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2024, 09:57:58 pm
content: I guess the tacho output voltage is too low for a full wave rectifier, so this is the workaround.The emitting diodes are in antiparallel, so they conduct in each half-wave, not at the same time.(Previous post now deleted?)
Washing mashine pmsm motor won't work properly. (NEED HELP!) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: DodgyRussianElectronicsSt
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 21, 2020, 11:05:23 pm
content: I recently teard down an Siemens iq 700 washing machine because of an heating relay failure (Code: F20). I wanted to use the motor separately but it is an pmsm (Permanent Magnet Synchronous Motor) motor and not an easy ac brushed motor. So it has an AC pmsm controller that want work without the washing machine reset or something.I want to use the motor without the washing machine electronics. Just with the pmsm controller.Can I reset the failure ?In the picture is the motor controller chip and the controller is from DIEHL ControlMain washing machine controller is an R5F104JHA (52 pin)At request I could send more pictures from the motor and other stuff.
Washing the flux off a board with MEMS microphone or sensor? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Artlav
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2015, 08:55:09 pm
content: To make the solder stick properly you use flux.To make the board look pretty and prevent corrosion and leakage, you wash the flux off after soldering.But what would you do if the board have a MEMS microphone or similar sensors with exposed silicon?I.e.http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MP45DT02TR/497-11921-1-ND/2757655Would just washing it with water damage it?There are no covers provided, and the datasheet does not say anything about it.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 25, 2015, 09:11:09 pm
content: Any liquid will damage it, even isopropyl alcohol. Just a tiny drop, and it's completely dead or with inferior performance. Moreover, many of them will pass the liquid from the underside even if you cover the top.

author: pmbrunelle
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2015, 11:52:03 pm
content: Assemble the board, solder and wash, and then as a second step afterwards, put on your problem part with no-clean solder and hot air?Or, reflow the whole board again (after cleaning) with no-clean flux solder paste just for the problem part?

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2015, 04:22:46 am
content: I also agree with the secondary operation to load those parts. Sometimes however you can order the parts taped for cleaning. After the cleaning you remove the tape over them. Very common on DIP switches. Or just go with no clean solder.

author: Artlav
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2015, 10:40:53 am
content: Interesting how it's never mentioned anywhere.I've read all the related Application note by ST, and there is no mention of washing.At best, they advice against vapor phase soldering.However, in InvenSense application notes they say it on the first page - do not wash.Weird.Anyway, thanks all for clarifying it.
Watchdog design (a.k.a. the "has my relay welded?" circuit) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sparkydog
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2023, 09:57:33 pm
content: Following up onthis thread(thanks for the pointers, y'all!), I have the following design to detect relay (contactor) contact welding:This depends on the relay using an AC coil and having force-guided / mechanically-linked contacts. It operates by sensing both coil energization (the AC current sense) and connectivity through an NC contact and using both states to charge an RC delay (C1+R4). If contact welding occurs, NC will not conduct when the coil is de-energized, which will result in C1 discharging, but the delay is needed because the relay will go through this state during normal switching. After a couple hundred ms (5-10x the relay rated switching time), C1 will drop below trigger voltage and activate U1 and Q2. Q2 is an open-drain FET which signals a fault by conducting. (In practice, Q2 allows a different relay, located elsewhere, to close when a fault occurs.)Q1 triggers at ~10 mA of AC current. Rectifying the AC input is unnecessary as C1 will not discharge enough between AC peaks to register as a fault. C2 causes VREF to rise slowly from 0 V when the circuit is first turned on, in order to give C1 time to charge first and reduce the possible "spike" on FAULT. This is intended to be turned on with the relay de-energized; otherwise, FAULT will be asserted until the AC peaks sufficiently, which can be long enough to register "upstream". As this should never occur in actual operation, I consider this behavior acceptable. (It's implicitly assumed that Q2 must conduct for at least a few ms before fault handling occurs and that very brief periods of conduction should be tolerated during normal operation. Since Q2 drives a relay, this should happen naturally as a consequence of the relay's switching delay.)T2 connects to both sides of the relay's AUX contacts. T3 connects to a pair of indicator LEDs. (Strictly speaking, the ACTIVE net is gratuitous / only for wiring consistency and could be eliminated from the board. "Active" means the relay is closed; "Safe" means the relay is open.) The board runs off of 12VDC.Yes, there are other ways I could go about detecting whether the coil has power; this design places high priority on minimizingspace. (Just splicing the coil wires would be similar in volume to the sense transformer, and would still need conversion to a logic-level signal. Plus, with this design, mains never actuallytouchesthe PCB.)Simulate this circuit.WDYT?
Water Faucet LED Light No Batteries..How Does This Work?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: SuzyC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2018, 08:19:46 pm
content: How can this work? Love to see a teardown of this! All this in a tiny water aeriator and reliable?LED illuminated water!Sold on Ebay for about $2 (free shipping from China, of course!)This little device fits on most taps and lights up a set of LEDs when you turn on the tap.The light is activated by water pressure and turns off automatically with the water.7 color are mixed displayed automatically when water flow.Main colors are Green, Red & Blue.ABS chroming material, excellent corrosion resistance, durable.Transforming the stream of water into a beautiful waterfall of light.Offer you a delight & wonderful experience.Ideal for bathroom or kitchen to make it fantastic.

author: chris_leyson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2018, 08:24:02 pm
content: Probably there is little turbine built in somewhere.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2018, 09:42:32 pm
content: That's exactly how they work, there are shower heads that do the same thing. They have a small turbine with magnets on it and a coil of wire. Water spins the turbine and it generates enough electricity to light the LED, at the cost of some of the water pressure.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2018, 12:38:25 am
content: Not exactly the same thing but pretty close:(I'm sure he wouldn't mind doing a teardown of one you send him... just tell him first.)

author: mbless
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2018, 01:40:57 am
content: MickMake just took his apart after it stopped working.
Water kettle connector specifications - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: w33m4n_
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 15, 2017, 10:30:15 am
content: hello thereI have got a water kettle for a car. on the box it sais 12V 125W.the connector is ratet for 240V 10A.That would mean to me about 2400W of power.The kettle draw about 10.7A when it is heating water.This is more then the ratet 10A but less then the 2400WIs this connector still ok or do i need to look for a higher ratet connector?the other water kettle i have got is for 24V. it has the same connector and is ratet for 175Wit draws about 7A.this looks ok for me. or am i wrong and it is not ok?the connector looks like this:thanks for your answers.

author: jeroen79
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2017, 02:29:16 pm
content: The connector has to:A. Pass current up to 10A.B. Maintain isolation between the contacts up to 240V (AC).Power would have nothing to do with it as the connector neither supplies or uses power.10.7A is 7% more than the rated 10A.You would have to test what will happen, possibly it may run a bit hotter.It is up to you to trust it or not.
Water proof acoustic vents - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 10:57:10 am
content: I have a product with sounders inside it and holes for those sounders in the case, but the box needs to be waterproof. So we'd like to stick an acoustic vent over the holes like many phones etc have:http://www.gore.com/MungoBlobs/110/354/GORE%20PEV%20Acoustics_JAN14-US_e,0.pdfbut finding them in small quantities seems to be a problem. I have contacted Gore but I've also noticed that searching google for this type of product only turns up sound proof air vents. Has anyone used anything like this before they can recommend ?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 06:10:30 pm
content: Sonalert makes sounders that are IP68 rated in an enclosure. Bleeding loud ones at that, will awake even the soundest sleeping driver.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 06:14:04 pm
content: how big. we had sounders but they were huge and wante to make the box smaller so we used pcb mount ones with holes in the box, obviously we need to make the box water proof to protect the driver PCB inside.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 06:41:15 pm
content: 22mm hole, small enough. IP66 rated Choose as appropriate..http://eu.mouser.com/new/mallory-sonalert/Mallory-Sonalert-ZA-22mm-panel-alarms/Otherwise browse here.....http://www.mallory-sonalert.com/

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 05:50:13 am
content: hm, nice, pity about the screw terminals and the minimum operating temperature being -30, -40 would have been better.

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 06:06:43 am
content: I wouldn't worry about temperatures being good for operation to -30C, as the coldest ocean temps are around -2.0C.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 06:29:46 am
content: Well i have a design spec i have to pay lip service to that says -46 (yep it's one of those), so for space and temperature we came up with the surface mount sounders going through acoustic vents.

author: hayatepilot
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 08:55:07 am
content: How good has the sound quality to be?Does it only have to beep?How much attenuation is acceptable?I mean any thin membrane is more or less acoustically transparent.Look at multimeters: Many just have a piezo transducer on the board with no holes at all. Nonetheless you can hear the beeps clearly.Or use the case itself as a speaker, actuatet with a piezo.Greetings

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 11:34:06 am
content: It's just a buzzer. As much sound through as possible. No not just any membrane will do, we tried selotape and looked kind of stupid.

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 02:30:38 pm
content: Perhaps you could mechanically couple it to the case and use that as your sounding board.
Water proof charging contacts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: zoro
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 06, 2021, 06:07:39 am
content: Hi, my fellow peers.Although I have been following Dave on youtube for a while, this is my first post on the forum.I have a question, which most likely has been asked somewhere here that eludes me.I am busy playing around with a small handheld size device (essentially used for data logging) that I would like the be made out of impact-resistant plastic of aluminium. It will house a small PCB and battery. It needs to be waterproof. Similar devices have been known to be thrown into a kettle to be boiled on a number of occasions, so I would like this one to be able to withstand that.My problem is that I need a way of charging the device. Possibly of some sort of basic data interface as well, does not have to be high speed.Does anyone have any recommendations on an electrical contact system that is small enough (diameter of around 20mm max for the complete contact housing) that I could experiment with?Seeing as this is just for a hobby project and something I want to muck around with, I am going my wise (and perhaps not so wise) way and go for a DIY solution rather than an off the shelf solution.Any suggestions?Cheers!
Waterproof enclosures and external interfaces? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AndrewM
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2019, 04:45:05 pm
content: I need to make a thing that will have a simple external interface (7-seg LCD and numeric keypad), and be waterproof - it will be used outside, and I need it to be able to get rained on, dropped in the snow/puddles, etc...For the keypad I'm thinking I can use one of these:https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/adafruit-industries-llc/419/1528-1136-ND/5353596Cut a small slot in the box, thread the connector through, and seal up the hole with silicone or epoxy.How do I get an externally-visible 7-segment LCD that's waterproof? Is my bet to have a plastic window sealed to the box, and mount the LCD underneath it contacting the window?Should I attach the LCD directly flush-mounted through a hole in the box, and add a gasket or silicone around the edge of the LCD?Is there some other good way to do this?Thanks,Andrew

author: i_am_fubar
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2019, 06:14:14 pm
content: Going to share a technique I've used on a few things. Works best for plastic enclosures, but works ok on metal if environment isn't too harsh. Also, ok for LED, not so much for LCD but may work, it's quite diffusing.1) Cut hole in enclosure bigger than display2) place enclosure upsidedown on aluminium block (as a heatsink)3) spooge hot melt glue into hole4) press display into hot melt5) spooge more hot melt to hold secure.The aluminium heatsink hardens the glue flush to enclosure face but glue is transparent enough for LEDs and some displays.The keypad will be fine. Maybe deal around inside of slot if using a textured enclosure.
Waterproof switch cover? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: steaky1212
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2018, 08:42:10 am
content: Hi all,My google-fu is letting me down, so I thought I'd try here to see if anyone can help.I am designing a PCB with 3 connectors and hopefully a momentary push button (or whatever I can get), that is to be used in a wet environment. The connectors are all IP67 (AU-04PMMP-LC7001), but I am banging my head trying to select a button/switch/toggle etc. The connectors are to be soldered onto the board, and then the board fitted to the plastic box with nothing but the connector mounting.I have the following constraints:- At least IP54- switch to be PCB mounted- distance from PCB to plastic housing is 4.4mm.- maximum cost of $2 in 100x.- ideally purchasable from RS/Farnell- switch/button/toggle is momentaryI have seen boots for toggle switches, but the bodies are always too big.Ideally I would just like to drill a hole, push fit a flexible rubber cap and push through this onto a standard tactile button - but like I said, my google-fu is letting me down.Any ideas?Steaky

author: bob225
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2018, 09:20:59 am
content: PCB mount limits the optionsonly thing that springs to mind, Is a med/long post tactile switch with a ip rated top on the out side or a film cover

author: David Chamberlain
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2018, 09:43:26 am
content: Hey, second time i get to post this link today.http://au.element14.com/schneider-electric/xaca9412/pushbutton-head-booted/dp/2058552
Waterproof Ultrasound Distance Sensor HC-SR04 Error - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: magvitron
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 13, 2020, 06:30:20 pm
content: Hello!I was making an ultrasound water level sensor for my over head water tank. Controller used is an ESP32 and an OLED for display. The sensor assembly with the controller forHC-SR04is at the top of my home and the wires for power, gnd, trigger and eco are routed to Kitchen below with 18AWG wiresI tested the sensor and it works fine outside the tank. The problem started when I installed the sensor on the water tank cap. The sensor reads fine till 40cm and after that it seems to be stuck at 40 cm.initial inference wasAcoustic resonanceand then while googling hard I found some articles for false positive peaks when the ultrasound sensors are used for measuring water heights.My questions are:Did you had the same experience with the sensor?if yes how can I make this work?Can I adjust the sensitivity of the module by turning the variable pot in the sensor?More Information:water tank dimension: 914.4mm diameter X 965.2 mm height 500 Liter Dual tank (but the sensor is installed only on one tank)water type: Fresh waterdistance from tank to device: 5 metersThe sensor at top is covered with a plastic lid and then covered with silicon.Thanks in advance, and have a great day!-Manu Krishnan
Waterproofing Circuits - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alvarop
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2011, 02:18:06 am
content: I found an old RSA SecurID and decided to open it to see what was inside.The whole thing seems to be inside molded plastic. And what I mean is that they assembled the circuit, then poured the plastic around it and let it solidify. I couldn't really take it apart. (Without destroying the whole thing, which I did)They did leave a nice window for programming though.I was just wondering if anyone here has worked with such designs and could share some information as to how it's done. I'm interested in waterproofing some circuits, but I don't really know what the materials used are. I would also assume there can be some serious heat problems if done wrong.Thanks!

author: joelby
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2011, 05:23:50 am
content: The technique is known as 'potting' and usually uses epoxy. Heat conductivity and expansion are definitely things to consider. There's a lot of information athttp://www.pottingsolutions.com/my%20site/Technology/potting_hints.htm.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2011, 11:14:03 am
content: If you don't have potting compounds, and your design does not generate much heat; you can DIY pot it with liquid tape.Here's a good list of possible substitutes:http://answers.hackaday.com/what-is-a-good-low-cost-dielectric-potting-material-for-high-voltage-electronics/

author: tecman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2011, 02:55:41 pm
content: Also look for "casting compounds" which is a common term for fully encapsulating electronics.paul

author: Time
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2011, 09:46:22 pm
content: Thats yours or you found it? They still use those things. You might get a reward if you return it.

author: alvarop
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2011, 02:57:27 am
content: Thanks for the help! Now I know what to look for.I used it to log in to my online banking, but I no longer have an account for that bank. Not to mention that the RSA database is out, so these are not as secure as they used to be.
WATSON W-25AM PSU DECOUPLING PROBLEM - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: g6ypk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 29, 2013, 11:59:28 am
content: GREETING BROTHERS AND SISTERS, HAMPERS, DOGS, CATS AND GERBILS.Cap off..Sorry about that. I'm too tired to turn the caps off and rewrite the line.To business: I am the not so proud owner of a Watson W-25AM linear PSU. I thank the Gods I also have a Power Max 45NF here too, but have run out of terminal space.I enjoy working 4 and 6 metres. BUT, and this is the big but; as I have no room left on the Power Max 45, I have had to resort to the W-25A to transmit with the two radios on 4 and 6 metres.You guessed it: The W-25AM falls down at the slightest sniff of low band RF.Yes, I know, I must be dumb, but even though I have been a ham for 34 years, I have never had to decouple a PSU before. So, I guess it is about time I learned. A few pointers here and there would be most welcome. That is where to and where not to decouple and what values, etc. I guess I have to get pencil to paper and work out values that are short to 4 and 6 metres, but where on a PSU is the best place to put the capacitors for best effect?73 de Tony

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2013, 12:36:19 pm
content: Sorry i'm not much of a HAM, so i wasnt able to follow all that you saidnone the less, I'm going to assume this is just powering the radios, if such then that makes it a lot easier,the easiest thing you can try is get a ferrite coupling big enough to wrap the power lead through to form a loop atleast once, (positive and negative is ideal) this forms a common mode choke and will reject most RF being injected by the radios,if no luck there, tell us what exact frequency range you want to use, the noise is likely to be that fundamental or a harmonic, if such we may be able to point out a capacitor value to put in parallel with you output capacitor (to as a very quick test grab something in the order of 1nF ceramic and a 10nF ceramic, and tack them in parallel as close to the connection terminals as possible

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2013, 05:09:43 am
content: Well,the UK 4m Ham band is around 70MHz,& the 6m band around 50MHz,so it is basically low band VHF.I would agree with Rerouter's comments,but you may have to get inside the beast,& do your bypassing close to the control circuitry.I would also suggest that you ask this question on QRZ.com,as some of the Hams on that site may have experience with the same problem.
Waveform data from a Rigol scope over USB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jpowerdiver
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 08, 2012, 06:49:02 pm
content: I can't seem to get reliable data over the USB port of a Rigol DS1052E scope. I can program it just fine from MatLab. Has anyone else had this problem? It's flaky and data dependent. I've tried 2 different scopes and 2 versions of VISA drivers with the same result.
Waveshare 1.54" E-Paper display modules - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: galvanix
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2017, 07:52:31 am
content: Hello!I have purchased someWaveshare 1.54" E-Paper display moduleson eBay. Looking at the provided driver software for the Raspberry Pi and trying to understand the operation using the data sheet is giving me trouble. The data sheet is missing a lot of information, for example there is a lookup table which needs to be initialized to a certain value depending on the size of the display. There is no justification or description given for what those values have to be except the values given in the demo driver.Additionally, the demo driver only works in the provided demonstration project. Simply clearing the screen and trying to write some strings to the display doesn't work.Also the demo driver seems to be expecting the image to be a multiple of eight pixels long for some reason. I'd love to use these displays in a project and I wouldn't mind writing my own drivers but without a proper data sheet that won't be possible.Has anyone here worked with these modules before and has access to the data sheet or working drivers?Thanks!galvanix

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2017, 11:18:15 am
content: Looking at the brief datasheet linked from that page, the size and commands suggest it's a Solomon SSD1608 or similar. You can find thefull datasheetfor that controller and understand better that way.(Although the controller is officially 1bpp, you might be able to coerce that screen into displaying grayscale if you adjust the timings appropriately.)

author: galvanix
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2017, 12:43:54 pm
content: Wow that was a quick and helpful reply!It seems to be an SSD1608, the timing diagrams are exactly the same shown in the other brief data sheet.Thank you!
Wavetek Function Gen model 23 worth buying ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: nrgeek
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2012, 05:09:57 pm
content: Wavetek Function Gen model 23 worth buying ? this will be my first one .. price shipping and all about 70 us dollarsspecs12 MHz Synthesized Function GeneratorForm Factor BenchtopNumber of Channels 1 chWaveforms (Sine, Square, etc.) Ramp,Sine,Square,TriangleMinimum Frequency 0.01 HzMaximum Frequency, Sine wave 12 MHzMaximum Frequency, Square Wave 12 MHzMaximum Frequency, Triangle Wave 12 kHzMaximum Frequency, Ramp 12 kHzFrequency Accuracy 0.05 %Minimum Output Voltage 0.01 VMaximum Output Voltage 10.2 VWaveform Resolution 4 digitsOutput Accuracy 1 %Output Impedance 50 OhmModulation AM,FM,SCM,VCGTrigger Modes Burst,Continuous,Gate,Trigger,ToggleWavetek 23 Programmability/ConnectivityUser Interface ProprietaryWavetek 23 ComplianceCE Compliance Not on fileUL Compliance Not compliantWavetek 23 Power RequirementsInput Power Universal (Auto Sense and Switch)Wavetek 23 Physical DimensionsWidth 211 mm(8.3 in)Height 85 mm(3.34 in)Length 305 mm(12 in)Weight 4 kg(8.81 lb)

author: amspire
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2012, 02:36:23 am
content: Sounds pretty good to me at that price. Go for it.

author: ciccio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2012, 10:34:53 am
content: I'll buy at once, for that price...The lowest I found is 600 US$ :http://www.rssurplus.com/wavetek.htmlI used Wavetek instruments for years, and the were reliable and well made.Best regards

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2012, 11:47:06 am
content: Nice units and the service manual should be available as well. I have the 75 AWG and its great quality.The price sounds excellent but make sure the seller gives a DOA right of return on it.Aurora
Wavetek model 3001 Signal Generator 1-520MHz show and tell - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2025, 11:20:38 am
content: you are going to love this oneWavetek model 3001 Signal Generator 1-520MHzit is VERY complex designed contain 5 PLL systemstwo main oscillators 1198MHz and 1199-1718 MHzand it is made the most beautiful way,Very lucky this one only had a tiny error just a loose connector i could solder back on.I also made a little video about it :https://youtu.be/ZM6ttRh2Oyg

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2025, 12:17:28 am
content: I had a bunch of tantalums go bad in mine when the power supply went out of regulation. If you try to align one of these that was diddled by an idiot it takes a long time to get proper lock. Takes some 'back and forth' and understanding which direction to go with the adjustments. The manual is very good. The modules look very crudely individually hand built and transistor lead lengths are critical to proper range of oscillation. You'll need God's help if you actually have to replace a transistor or critical tuning diode. Mine works well from 400KHz to 539MHz with good stable lock. I think you can trick these units to going above 539MHz but then there are a few places at lower frequencies where they won't lock. The 'blinking red led' will cause your heart to skip a beat went you suddenly think it is going to need repaired again. BE AWARE that ground IS NOT one of the pins!!! Power supply ground return is ONLY through the 6-32 hold down screw and the SMA cable shields!!! You can easily blow up the modules when testing without the module-to-chassis securing screw!!!
Wayne Kerr PMA3260B GPIB communication not working? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: JHamon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 04:18:33 pm
content: Hi,I'm working on an automated calibration routine for a Wayne Kerr magnetics analyzer, but I can't get synchronization working. Right now I'm sending test command through NImax over GPIB but eventually I need to have a python script sending the commands using the PyVisa library. What I understand to be the procedure is to issue the calibration command and query the OPC bit in a while loop until the instrument is done executing, then issue the next command, but currently I have two problems.1. When I query *OPC? when the WK is idling it only returns a newline byte, not a 1 or a 0. (see attached image)2. When I run a calibration command, the instrument doesn't process any other queries until after the calibration is finished, so I couldn't use *OPC? even if it was returning a value. If I send a command while a calibration command is running, even a simple *IDN? or *STB, it times out.If any of you have had this problem before, or see something obviously wrong I am doing, please let me know!Thanks,

author: rcjoy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 07:58:06 pm
content: Regarding the timeout, start by increasing the timeout time in the GPIB software on your PC to be larger than the time it takes for the calibration routine to complete. This would be required if that instrument only processes GPIB commands sequentially.

author: JHamon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 26, 2023, 09:48:26 pm
content: That worked. Now I'm just waiting for the calibration to finish then polling the result register which seems to accomplish the task.
Ways to sum RF+baseband signals - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: PartialDischarge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2020, 12:01:14 pm
content: How would you sum 2 signals, lets say that come from low impedance sources, one DC-10MHz, the other 10MHz to 500MHz, about 1Vpk-pk eachOutput must be 50Ohms, the DC is important and cannot be lost. A passive way would be preferred but I guess op-amps could be an option.Maybe some commercial Tektronix or HP use circuits to do this but I can't recall any..

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2020, 12:25:50 pm
content: A simple 50 ohm power combiner (a passive splitter connected backwards) will sum the signals and preserve DC, but the sum will be 3dB down e.g. a 1volt DC level on each input would only yield 1v on the output rather than 2v.

author: PartialDischarge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2020, 01:07:38 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on February 20, 2020, 12:54:22 pmTo sum them. Let's say some channels are optimized to transmitting RF and not DC, so you put the load of bandwidth on these. Other channels, with other technologies, may be slower but able to transmit DC.So in the end you need to sum them

author: PartialDischarge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2020, 01:36:12 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on February 20, 2020, 01:29:44 pmThe problem is that the RF LF corner is not close to DC, but in the few MHz, 10MHz the better. To restore just DC on RF is easy.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2020, 11:39:30 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on February 20, 2020, 01:40:55 pmSome operational amplifiers will be fast enough to use in the inverting configuration and current feedback operational amplifier can be used this way.The higher frequency extension of this is to replace the operational amplifier with a transistor using shunt feedback. A DC correction loop can be used to correct the DC offset if necessary.The broadband method used by oscilloscopes to add two signals is suitable to 100s of MHz. Convert each signal to a current using a transconductance amplifier, and then combine the two current outputs in parallel. No conversion back to a voltage is necessary in this case because the combined current can directly drive a transmission line with the source terminated by a shunt resistance. There are some very fast integrated transconductance amplifiers which would be ideal for this and some integrated parts with dual inputs which might be suitable by themselves.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2020, 12:40:44 am
content: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diplexerhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bias_tee
ways to turn a knob with a stepper motor and arduino - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Stealthrt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2017, 04:25:11 pm
content: Hey all I am wondering what would be the best items to purchase for me to be able to turn this know (continuous) below:I'm just needing to know what kind of servo torque I would need in order to turn that without issues of it getting stuck mid-ways.i spoke to the original creator of that web site project that i linked to and this is what they had to say about the parts that were used:QuoteAre there any servos that have a hole in the middle so that i can slide it over the turning rod and screw down to tighten on it in order to spin it as if you were spinning it yourself with the handle?Something like this:As I mentioned above, I would need the stepper motor to have a continuous rotation in order for it to work with either of these dry food dispensers above.There is a decent tutorialHEREbut really doesn't give much information about how they went about building it and the mentioned Yocto-LatchedRelay seems over priced for something that can be done with just a stepper motor and some logic behind it.I plan on using a ATMEGA32u4 with this project. I will have a total of 6 of these to control.The handle/shaft is 2 1/2" long.The paddle is 3" longThe base (measured from the inside) is 5 7/4"So any suggestions on what would be best for this type of project would be great and I look forward in hearing them!

author: anishkgt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2017, 04:41:38 pm
content: Well the requirement for this project would come down to motor, servo and torque if am correct. The number of turns can be controlled with a steeper motor as well as servo. The continuous turn servo. There are servo's with enough torque to do the job or a 775 motor also would enough torque but in controllable spin though. Not sure if stepper motors would have enough torque. Servo would be best I guess with a shift couple and a 5 or 8mm rod to spin the knob. Servo on the when attached from arduino cannot spin freely unless it detached via code.Hope this helps.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

author: CM800
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2017, 04:57:34 pm
content: The torque would depend on what you have in it.Looking at the design it could be the case where something get's stuck between the flap and the side, so you will need enough torque to be able to crush whatever you dispense (unless it's circular enough to allow to slip out of the way)

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2017, 12:36:35 am
content: You can get inexpensive gearhead DC motors that have loads of torque. Expensive ones are available too but they're not all expensive.Another cheap source is power window and wiper motors from cars, they tend to be a bit on the large side for a project like this but they can be found cheaply.
Ways to verify functionality of level shifter? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: bhj99
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2023, 11:28:12 pm
content: Hi all, I would like to seek advice on the best and most straightfoward way of verifying the voltage translation functions of a level shifter part on a test backplane PCB design prior to mating boards together. The level shifter part used to convert SPI signals between a mezzanine board at 3.3V logic level and an FPGA at 1.5V logic levels is SN74LXC8T245 from TI. Schematic snippet attached for reference. I would like to avoid damage of downstream devices during component level testing/checkout, but having to lift output source-series resistors can be a pain to isolate just the level shifter. Would a simple way to test 3.3V -> 1.5V be to use a power supply or signal generator to inject these logic levels at the input port and probe at the output port? Any recommendations are welcome.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2023, 03:09:54 am
content: If the test backplane is completely separate you could test as you have suggested.

author: bhj99
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2023, 02:54:44 pm
content: Can you think of any simpler test approaches?

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2023, 04:03:36 pm
content: Why would you need to lift the series resistors? If the signals are going to/from a mezzanine board, then surely you can just inject/measure at the mezzanine connector before fitting the board?In general, yes, you can perform functional testing on parts like this by simply applying appropriate input voltages and observing the output voltages. You could do that with a power supply, but be careful about leaving digital inputs floating. Something that can provide appropriate logic level outputs would be preferable, even just an MCU dev board with appropriate connectors bodged on.

author: dobsonr741
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2023, 05:16:52 pm
content: You can write a bringup code for the CPU to set one or more lines of the SPI high and observe. For example, CS would do. I would not verify all of the SPI lines, as the objective is not to verify the LCX245 is working according to the data sheet specs, rather to verify it's connected to the right power rail. That would be the most probable way this design can fail.
WCCA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: wcca
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 31, 2015, 06:01:53 am
content: Hello all,I would like to learn how to do a great worst case circuit analysis. Do you know where I can get examples of WCCA in excel or mathcad ?( Extreme Value Analysis or RSS are prefered methods no simulations are allowed. Also a good book to read is acceptable.Regards
WEARABLE ECG - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: VIRNA CATTANI
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 16, 2025, 02:13:42 pm
content: Bu

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2025, 07:09:33 pm
content: Just to confirm: You are asking for help, from randos online for a medical device. For free.
Wearable electronics? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: pyrohaz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2015, 11:50:36 am
content: With products like the Arduino lilypad, its quite easy to make clothing with embedded electronics. I'm wondering however: do the electronics not get effected by ESD? Surely sewing a microprocessor into a nice wooly jumper isn't going to do well for the electronics when the user removes the jumper, right?! How do these products protect against ESD?

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2015, 02:56:29 pm
content: ESD is unlikely to damage the components if they're already connected together with a low impedance. Metal screening can also be used which acts as a Faraday cage.

author: pyrohaz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2015, 09:13:32 pm
content: Quote from: Hero999 on March 13, 2015, 02:56:29 pmOh right! So if I set a microcontroller pin as an output and touch it without de-static'ing myself, would it cause microcontroller pin damage?
weatherproofing a front panel - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2020, 06:11:16 pm
content: I would like to weatherproof the front of a small hand-held device.The front panel will have a small OLED display and either a membrane keypad or some low profile surface mount tactile switches.What's the best way to weatherproof a front panel like this? I'm thinking some sort of clear tape or contact paper I can just cover everything with.

author: Lomax
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2020, 12:50:24 pm
content: You can getadhesive membrane keypads with built-in windowsfor displays. Provided the rest of the case is weatherproof that should be all you need.
Web-based Emulator of my Ben Eater inspired 8-bit breadboard computer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: visrealm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2019, 12:25:35 am
content: Howdy. This may be of interest to some.First, I watched Ben Eater's fantastic YouTube series.Then, I made my own and improved it, incorporating some of James Bates' improvements and some of my own, including an esp8266 (Wi-Fi) program loader.I added a web-based assembler, based oncustomasm.Then, I wrote an emulator for it in C.Then, I wrote a web front-end for it.This is the result. A breadboard computer that you can program, in your browser!https://cpu.visualrealmsoftware.com/emuDemonstration video:The real deal:Note: I plan to share the code that went into building my computer and emulator soon. Will reply here once I do.Update 25/09/2019:All code now available here:https://github.com/visrealm/vrcpu

author: FirstTry
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 20, 2019, 01:20:00 am
content: That looks nice, I made one as well off of his videos, I added a LCD display and made say “hello world”. Are you planing on making a video card like ben did on his recent videos?

author: visrealm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2019, 01:22:30 am
content: Thanks!I'm not planning to make the video card, though one of my friends is pushing for itI do plan to add an LCD display though - will make it a bit more useful. Though, then I'll have to emulate that too

author: FirstTry
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 20, 2019, 01:37:54 am
content: This is a picture of my board, I wanted to add some input, but I'm still in school didn't really have time. Are you making videos on this project, like a YouTube channel?[ Specified attachment is not available ]

author: visrealm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2019, 01:44:21 am
content: Looks great! Well done. It's quite an achievement to finish it.I didn't really document the build. I have some photos and very short videos in myGalleryI have one YT video of it running:https://youtu.be/Zj5HfeiyHRUand the other video on the emulator (above)

author: visrealm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2019, 02:53:23 am
content: Have just added the code for this project to a github repo.If you're interested in the esp8266 Wi-Fi program loader or the C emulator libary or the WASM wrapper, web front-end for the assembler and emulator.. it's all there:https://github.com/visrealm/vrcpuHave at it!
Web control architecture w/ video streaming - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: stan404
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 16, 2014, 10:31:24 pm
content: Hi EEVblog readers,I'm a long time reader, but decided today to make an account to share what I'm doing. I'm currently knee-deep mired in a job search after graduating with my Masters degree in EE earlier in the year. In order to keep my skills current and have something to show for my time other than rejection emails, I decided to undertake what, for me, is a rather ambitious project. I have worked up a project abstract/outline and am taking build notes. Feel free to make comments, suggestions, criticisms and alternate solutions. When I am finished I will make a webpage to let others freely use my work.My Google Doc is located here:https://docs.google.com/document/d/1iJk840m7M2nzgpANxwyfM4QHN6fFlNX1jLxjor4F6hk/edit?usp=sharingThanks!-Stanp.s. new MSEE grad looking for a job, willing to relocate!