Getting amscope microscope help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: buvikingen
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2020, 05:34:55 pm
content: Hi Eevblog.I am going to get a microscope for smd soldering. I just want to get some advice. I have looked at this model:https://www.amscope.com/7x-45x-trinocular-stereo-zoom-microscope-on-single-arm-boom.htmlI got three question.1: Will I regret not paying the extra money for a Double Arm Boom Stand2: I wear glasses, just want to know if any one has a stereo microscope and also wear glasses and can say if it is feasibly to use it (maybe a strange question sorry for that hehe).3: I am going to get a 0.5 barlow lense, but I am not sure if I should get the led light ring, any one has any experience with that?Looking forward to your helpKind regardsEmil

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2020, 07:38:37 pm
content: 1. If you think you will save weight and be able to put the thing away on a shelf when you're not using it? I don't think that is reasonable with either stand. If you want to save money, that's ok. The double-arm just means you can extend and retract the head, and it won't twist out of square, and you don't have to lock it. I swing my scope head more than push it in/out, so a single boom would work pretty close to the same for me. I rarely push it back to get it out of the way; you can reclaim some bench space that way, but once set-up, it's a dedicated area of the bench, for use of the scope.You don't really move a microscope around a board. You slide the board under the scope. Once your microscope station is permanently set-up, you don't have to extend/retract the head very often. Mostly I do it to adjust the position of the scope from the front edge of the bench, due to size of the board to keep the board from hanging halfway off the bench.2. I wear glasses and I had to remove the rubber eye cups off the eyepieces. You might be able to buy shorter eye cups. I don't know what the actual name is; I'm just making up "eye cups."3. You almost need a light ring. When you zoom in, especially, you need a lot of artificial light. A gooseneck lamp is cheaper, but it can produce glare and probably needs some occasional repositioning, depending what you're looking at.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2020, 07:44:54 am
content: A double arm boom stand is handy for scanning specimens that are awkward to move, and for taking photographs of them, as you don't have to re-true the head with every move. Has Amscope improved the quality of their double arm boom stands? People used to substitute proper, hardened horizontal shafts for the not exactly hard-wearing originals.A pair of modern, "high eyepoint" eyepieces should work fine with eyeglasses. You have to position your head more carefully with higher power (20X) ones and may notice that if you are standing. The microscope you link to comes with normal field (10X/20) eyepieces. If you can, I would try to order it with Amscope's "extreme wide field"(10X/22) eyepieces– to actually get a wide field of view.

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2020, 08:36:36 pm
content: If you have no intention to record pictures or videos those one is the best optionhttps://www.amazon.com/AmScope-SE400-Z-Professional-Microscope-Magnification/dp/B005C75IVM/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=amscope&qid=1595709350&sr=8-11

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2020, 08:59:01 pm
content: If you're wearing glasses, make sure you have 'high eye point' eyepieces.With regard to the eye cups, I've fitted my microscope with rifle scope lens covers! eg:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-5-69mm-Rifle-Scope-Lens-Cover-Flip-Up-Quick-Spring-Protection-Cap-Lense-Black/402282321738These have plastic front lips rather than rubber, so don't smear your glasses and of course they also have the flip covers to keep your eyepieces dust-free. They're available in a wide range of diameters.P.S. The flip springs can be quite strong - On mine I pushed out the hinge pins, removed the springs and replaced them with bits of sleeving, making them 'passive'.

author: Bassman59
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2020, 12:42:24 am
content: Quote from: jfiresto on July 25, 2020, 07:44:54 amWhat's a good option to increase working distance? I have WF10X eyepieces in my stereoscope. I added an LED ring-light it and it ate up all of the working area under the microscope.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2020, 02:22:12 am
content: 0.5x barlow lens.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2020, 04:27:50 am
content: Since you probably want to use the microscope for photos or video, be aware there's a difference between trinocular and simulfocus.

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2020, 10:23:39 pm
content: I wear eye glasses and I can use stereo microscopes. You CAN get barrow lens, but keep in mind, minimum focus distance will be short - meaning your lens will be very close to the object. Given a choice, I tend to prefer lower magnification in ocular lens (eye piece). I would suggest getting a clear lens filter for protection. That's what I do. Ring light is handy. I like them. Most stereo scope comes with oblique lighting - which will result in annoying and confusing shadows.I hate to make generalization with few samples I've seen. But AmScope tend to be on lower end. Base is lighter and lens quality is not great. That's understandable given the price point. I have never seen higher priced AmScope so I have no idea what those are. Just be sure you are aware of that. I prefer used but better quality stuff.Personally, I have a few Labomed scopes. These are Indian made scopes. Bases are large and heavy, and lens quality is "pretty good." Even after an accidental drop, it's still holding.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2020, 10:42:27 pm
content: If you use a lower powered eyepiece, your field of view decreases. You see the same amount of "stuff," but in a smaller circle. (Well you might see a little more "stuff," because your regular eyepiece might be clipping a little of that view). Your focal distance remains unchanged, at say 4".If you use a <1x barlow, you maintain your full FOV, so you can see more stuff. Unless your FOV is too big to begin with, changing eyepiece will not improve anything. The reason to reduce magnification is to see more stuff. Using a <1x Barlow is like increasing the resolution of your computer monitor. All the text and windows are smaller, but you can fit more on the screen. Changing to a low power eyepiece is like trading your monitor for a smaller one with the same resolution. Yes, everything is smaller. Congrats on the upgrade.When you put the barlow on there, it reduces your working space by the thickness of the lens, but you change the focal distance. So if you use a 0.5x Barlow, you go from 4" focal distance to 8". The lens is only may 1 1/2" thick. So you increase your working space by maybe a couple inches to about 6".One downside of a <1x Barlow is that you need more light for a given magnification.Short: it's already been figured out by 20,000 people. The most common setup for PCB work is a zoom head with 0.5x Barlow and light ring. Just do that. You end up with ~3x to 20x zoom, or thereabouts, and this is perfect. Full FOV. And about 6" space between the board and the light ring, which is great. And you don't need a high chair or stilts to use the scope. This is the sweet spot. This is the standard you ought to copy or compare your setup to. Out of the Lego bricks that are being manufactured and sold at reasonable prices, today, these are the pieces you want to cobble together or make sure are included in your kit.