Soldering tip melts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Keosintal
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 12:25:58 pm
content: HiI bought a butane soldering iron, Goot GP-101S.http://www.goot.jp/en/handakote/gp-101s/I had a problem of its tip melting after a few days (not even a week) of regular use. I've attached a picture of it so you guys can have a look and hopefully figure something out. This is my first iron and my first time soldering so I'm pretty much clueless. I've done some Googling on this and found a couple threads but they're not really helping.The first time it happened I took it back to the store where I bought it and they said they never see something like that and hand me a new one. But my second unit also suffers the same issue after several days of careful use. I just bought a new tip hoping it won't happen again. A new tip cost US$11 and I can't afford to buy one every week.The device itself is a rebranded Portasol Technic and I heard only good things about them so I must be at fault.http://www.portasol.com/product-r3.asp?P_ID=333In case if it would be of any help, this is how I use my iron:- The package said the iron comes with brass tip, so I wonder if there is any special care for brass tips.- I use 2.4 mm tip part no. GP-101T-2.4C.- I solder wires from 20 up to 14 AWG.- I tin my tip before use, although I'm not sure if I'm doing it correctly.- I use Burnley soldering paste. It states on the package containing zinc chloride- Not really sure what kind of solder I use, but I guess it's leaded. The solder is shiny.- I only use damp sponge (not wet) to clean my tip. No steel or brass wool or sandpaper whatsoever.- The range of heat I use is variable. Sometimes I use maximum heat while sometimes just a little.Thanks

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 12:52:07 pm
content: Well, brass/copper tips will dissolve like that but I've never seen it happen so fast. Possibly the solder you are using has some aggressive flux. Overheating doesn't help either. But, yes, steel tips are long lasting compared to copper alloys.Any special reason you are using butane rather than electric?

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 12:59:15 pm
content: Quote from: Keosintal on February 02, 2019, 12:25:58 pm"Genuine" Goot actually is very robust soldering iron and its well known for decades, as long its not faked one.Try buy genuine Goot tip .. and yes, it will be much more expensive.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 01:05:46 pm
content: Quote from: Keosintal on February 02, 2019, 12:25:58 pmThat's a very aggressive acid flux, and is only suitable for plumbing and sheet metalwork. It has corroded away the protective iron plating on the tip, and the solder has eroded the tip by dissolving copper from it (and probably zinc as well if its actually brass). It will also corrode fine copper wires so if you have used it to tin or solder any stranded wire, they will fail sooner rather than later, rotting away under the insulation next to the tinned end. It also rots PCB tracks. If you've used it on PCBs, you may be able to salvage them by scrubbing them with very hot (near boiling) water with a trace of detergent added, to remove the acid flux residue.Throw that flux paste away (or put it with your plumbing tools) and get electronics grade RMA (Rosin) flux, free from zinc, mineral acids, chlorides or other halides.You *may* be able to save the tip you are currently using, by taping over the vents to protect the catalyst, and washing the pointed section first with thinners to degrease it then in boiling water with a trace of detergent, scrubbing it with a toothbrush, taking care not to get any thinners or water into the vents and on the catalyst.Eroded portasol tips can be rebuilt by filing the end flat, and drilling a hole to swage in a thick piece of solid copper wire, which should be very lightly tinned before you swage it in place, and must be a very tight fit in the hole before swaging the sides of the remaining conical part near the tip to retain it. The hole must not go through into the combustion chamber, so probe down the bore of the shank to get the depth to the solid part of the tip, then calculate the remaining length to the end of the tip and mark your drill bit accordingly. Tape over the catalyst while drilling and swaging to keep dirt and swarf out. Once the thick wire is in place, cut it off about 10mm from the rest of the tip, then run it at max heat for five minutes so the tinning on it alloys with the wire and the tip to fuse it in place, then turn it off, file the end to a hoof tip profile and tin it and its ready to use again. As it doesn't have any plating you'll have to keep it dressed to shape with a fine file as it erodes, and eventually, when it gets too short, drill it out again and repeat the rebuild. Erosion can be minimised by buying solder with an alloy composition containing 1% to 2% copper.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 01:05:59 pm
content: Quote from: Keosintal on February 02, 2019, 12:25:58 pmZinc chloride is acid flux, which must never be used for electronics. I strongly suspect it’s what’s eating up the tip. It’s an aggressive acid flux intended for things like plumbing, sheet metal, etc. It’s categorically unsuited to electronics.Don’t use mystery solder. It could also be contributing.You need to get yourself properelectronicssolder and flux. As you have seen, using the wrong supplies costs you a lot more in the long run.For the solder: Either rosin or no-clean (I generally prefer rosin), and if it’s just for hobby use, get a quality leaded 63/37 or 62/36/2 (silver-bearing) solder from a quality brand like Kester, MG Chemicals, Multicore/Loctite, Stannol, or Felder.For the flux: again, rosin or no-clean. You have many options here, between liquids, pastes, and gels.Do not buy water-soluble electronics flux or flux-core solder: it’s also a mild acid flux and cannot be used as a general-purpose flux.P.S. If you used the acid flux on any stranded wire, expect it to corrode and fail. (Even in solid wire it can sometimes wick up the insulation and cause corrosion. But in stranded, it’s guaranteed.)

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 01:07:24 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on February 02, 2019, 01:05:46 pmHeh, GMTA: looks like we wrote much of the same things simultaneously!

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 01:13:39 pm
content: Yep.At least I added a method for rebuilding Portasol bits (assuming the catalyst is still good which may not be the case if that <F-word> acid plumbers flux spattered onto it).

author: Keosintal
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 01:25:04 pm
content: Quote from: soldar on February 02, 2019, 12:52:07 pmThe fact that no one has ever seen it before makes it harder to figure out the cause. Anyway the store clerk told me the distributor send my first unit back to Japan for inspection because they never encounter anything like that. I've read reviews of people who've used the same model as me for 10 - 12 years and the iron fails before the tip.Quote from: soldar on February 02, 2019, 12:52:07 pmWhat do you mean by that? Are you saying I should use higher heat? Sorry English is not my mother tongue.Quote from: soldar on February 02, 2019, 12:52:07 pmMainly because I don't like having cords get in the way while working. And because they heat so fast, since I usually need to do a quick soldering.

author: Keosintal
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 01:31:40 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on February 02, 2019, 12:59:15 pmI believe mine is genuine. What I mean by rebranded is the unit actually made by Portasol (which is very reputable brand for butane irons. Almost all decent butane irons are made by Portasol and rebadged, including Weller).The new tip I bought is genuine and cost almost half the price of the iron itself.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 01:38:22 pm
content: Plumbers flux totally destroys electronics and iron tips.Using it on electronics is a common problem encountered by people getting into the hobby.Usually they have asked around for supplies and someones dad says 'yes, i have some solder you can use'.

author: Keosintal
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 01:40:29 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on February 02, 2019, 01:05:46 pmCan I get away without using any paste? Choice of supplies is limited in my small town, and that Burnley is the only choice available. BTW, I bought it from electronics store so I absolutely did not expect it to be something harmful for electronics.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 01:48:02 pm
content: Need to sort out terminology. I'm not entirely sure what you are referring to when you say "Paste"Saying "paste" should always refer to 'solder paste' the stuff that looks like gray toothpaste.If instead it's clear/yellow then it's either flux gel or liquid flux.Paste = solder paste, a mix of flux and tiny balls of solder used for soldering surface mount parts with hot airFlux = a clear/yellow liquid or gel that you can add to joints to help improve solderingSolder = A metal wire that melts under 450C/842F and has flux embedded inside it. It comes in two main categories, acid core solder for plumbing and electrical solder for electronicsAdding extra Flux is somewhat optional.You don't have to add liquid/gel flux as all solder sold for electronic use already contains flux. However flux does improve soldering quality so using it is a good idea if the parts to be soldered are old or not clean. It also make surface mount soldering easier by reducing bridging between pins.Quote from: Keosintal on February 02, 2019, 01:40:29 pmIt is entirely possible that this electronics store does not know they have purchased, and are selling, acid core flux or solder. It wouldn't be the first time that has happened.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 02:03:03 pm
content: Paste is a generic term for the composition of a substance. Solder paste is totally different from flux paste (and from toothpaste). A paste is non-homogeneous and usually contains finely divided solids. A gel is homogeneous and is usually more or less transparent. Paste and gel fluxes are very similar.In electronics, 'paste' on its own *usually* refers to solder paste, but the first time you mention it in any document or discussion, you should always use the full name to avoid ambiguity.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 02:07:14 pm
content: Just trying to avoid confusion.I totally agree that the definition of the word 'paste' just describes the density of a liquid.However i think almost all engineers will assume 'solder paste' if someone just says 'paste'. Or says that they applied some paste.

author: Keosintal
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 02:18:48 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on February 02, 2019, 01:05:59 pmYeah my choices here is pretty limited. Only 3 kind of solders are available to me:1. Locally made with no label of information. This one produces shiny joint which I learn is good.2. Leaded 60/40 rosin core. This one produces dull/matte finish which I learn indicates poor quality leaded solder3. Goot lead free. I'm uncertain of the details because I never check it out since I always avoid lead free solder after watching YouTube and reading forums saying bad things about them.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 02:19:32 pm
content: Part of the problem here is that 'Burnley Soldering Paste' has an odd name from an electronics industry perspective.The plumbing industry have their own terminology which is different to electronics.They are calling their product soldering paste when it's really flux paste, and solder paste in electronics is something completely different.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 02:23:33 pm
content: Quote from: Keosintal on February 02, 2019, 02:18:48 pmFrom your list there i would go with 2. leaded 60/40 rosin core. That is pretty standard solder for electronics use.I'm not sure why you are getting a dull finish with it. Sometimes very old or crap quality 60/40 can make dull joints.Or maybe because you tried the acid core stuff and that gave you a super glossy finish and you're now comparing everything to that.I would expect acid core to give a really nice gloss since it is a very powerful fluxIf you make a joint with some 60/40 rosin and post a photo maybe we can tell you if its good or not.

author: Keosintal
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 02:25:11 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on February 02, 2019, 01:48:02 pmThanks. Really helpful.

author: Keosintal
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 02:29:19 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on February 02, 2019, 02:23:33 pmI only use it a couple of times. When my first unit broke, I thought the solder I use was to blame so buy this one. After I saw the dull finish I stopped using it for fear of it damaging my tip.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 02:35:18 pm
content: If your 60/40 says "Rosin" on it then its safe to use.It may/may-not be the best quality solder but it shouldn't damage your iron tip.Put the "Burnley soldering paste" (flux) somewhere away from electronics. Anything electronic related that it touches will be damaged, even after a single exposure. Think of it like acid, anything it touches will be eaten away.Or return it to the shop and tell them its acid flux. If the shop is for electronics only and doesn't sell plumbing supplies then they may have ordered it by mistake

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 02:35:56 pm
content: Quote from: Keosintal on February 02, 2019, 02:18:48 pmShiny means that it has lead in it. Lead free solder typically leaves dull / matte finish.So most likely that Leaded 60/40 solder is actually lead free solder with a fake label, or a leaded solder with a bad chemical composition (maybe 40/60 or made out of recycled solder?)You don't say where you are... i suspect Malaysia from searching for "Burnley" in Google.Anyway, can't you order things online? There are distributors which have reasonable shipping costsSee if there's a Farnell.com / Newark.com site for your country (or if there's distributors in your country) :https://www.farnell.com/Same for RS-Components :http://www.rs-online.com/TME.EU may be worth checking out.They're a Polish (EU) company which has very good prices for Liquid / Gel fluxes .. the ones made by AG Thermopasty are decent :https://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/#id_category=100484&page=1&s_field=accuracy&s_order=DESCI wouldn't mind paying even 20$ for shipping, when I can buy a 500ml bottle of no-clean liquid flux for 10$ (10-20ml flux pens are usually that much) ... that would last you a long time.They also have solder wire, but they only stock lead free solder these days (Stannol is a good brand in their catalogue).

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 02:40:29 pm
content: Quote from: mariush on February 02, 2019, 02:35:56 pmYep, could definitely be fake leaded that's actually lead-free.Flux will also make a joint shiny though, It allows the metal to flow nicely so that it solidifies into a totally smooth reflective finish.

author: Keosintal
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 03:06:45 pm
content: Quote from: mariush on February 02, 2019, 02:35:56 pmMight be, but I don't see the point of them doing that. And I thought lead free is more expensive? I can't tell the price difference though. The local brand and the 60/40 are sold in different weight packs and the local ones didnt even label the net weight so it's tricky to tell.Quote from: mariush on February 02, 2019, 02:35:56 pmGood guess. And you're creeping me out now because my Google search result of Burnley didn't show Malaysian links.Quote from: mariush on February 02, 2019, 02:35:56 pmI can't for different reasons.

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 03:07:26 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on February 02, 2019, 01:38:22 pmMy last house had solar collectors with a holding tank in the basement and some electronics which controlled the pump and other things. One day it stopped working. After much troubleshooting I found out that, during installation work, some plumber's flux had dripped into the electronics. It took some time to do its work but by now the PCB was totally corroded.

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 03:13:21 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on February 02, 2019, 01:05:46 pmI did not know the brand but searching online shows they make soldering paste for electronics so it depends on what he got.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 05:51:16 pm
content: Quote from: soldar on February 02, 2019, 03:13:21 pmI did a bit of deeper searching earlier, and despite it saying “made in Canada” on it, every single vendor seems to be in Asia, other than vintage tins. The manufacturer listed on the tin does exist (they are a plumbing supply company), but lists no product with that brand. So my suspicion is this:1. That brand of plumbing flux did originally exist, in Canada.2. It got counterfeited in Asia.3. The manufacturer in Canada stopped making it, but the counterfeiters continue.4. Through Chinglish translation, eBay listings for it say “pine resin” and whatnot, making you think it’s electronics flux, even though it’s not, because someone googled “flux” and just chose something.P.S. The OP stated clearly in the original post that his flux paste contains zinc chloride.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 05:53:45 pm
content: Quote from: Keosintal on February 02, 2019, 03:06:45 pmWell, find a way around those reasons, if your local retailer cannot procure quality supplies for you. It makes no sense to dick around with garbage solder and flux that will never produce a satisfactory result.

author: Audioguru
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 06:51:49 pm
content: I use an electric temperature-controlled soldering iron with 63/37 rosin core electronics solder and the tip lasts for many years.I use a gas torch with plumbers solder and acid flux for soldering water pipes.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 07:05:54 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on February 02, 2019, 01:48:02 pmMmmmm... not 100%.1. In the past especially (and still commonly for plumbing), “solderingpaste” was used to mean “paste flux [for soldering]”, and this was occasionally shortened to “solder paste”. It wasn’t until the much later invention of the solder-particles-suspended-in-flux that “solder paste” came around with the modern meaning. You can still sometimes find paste fluxes labeled “solder paste”.2. Paste and gel flux are NOT exactly the same! Paste flux (for electronics) has historically been rosin flux dissolved in petroleum jelly, usually an amber color. (I have a tin of Kester SP-44 from the 80s, and a tube of Radio Shack paste flux from the 90s, both being rosin in petroleum jelly. The Radio Shack one is a thinner one, the Kester very, very stiff.) Modern gel fluxes, on the other hand, use solvents like glycol ethers and aromatic alcohols.I’ll admit that there’s no clear line — fluxes exist in a fluid continuum from liquid to solid, with every viscosity in between. Nowadays, we often say “gel” for runnier pastes, and “paste” for thicker pastes. Kester doesn’t even bother — they just call them “tacky” fluxes.3. Fluxes, whether liquid, gel, or paste, can be clear, yellow, or dark amber — or any shade in between.Quote from: Psi on February 02, 2019, 01:48:02 pmNo. Solder is the alloy. “Flux core solder wire” is what you described here.

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 07:51:03 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on February 02, 2019, 05:51:16 pmCounterfeit goods on eBay? Say it ain't so! My trust in humanity is shaken!Seriously though, good investigation.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 08:20:24 pm
content: Thanks! I, too, was shocked (shocked!) to discover that not everything on eBay is genuine!I did find an MSDS for it under the Burnley name, but it’s from 2009 and hosted on some random website, while the manufacturer’s website doesn’t list it in their MSDS list. So I suspect they retired the Burnley branded product at some point in the last decade. (They sell a different formulation under their own name, with an MSDS from 2017.)

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 09:48:46 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on February 02, 2019, 02:35:18 pmi think your statement is an exaggeration or you never used one, only from hearsay. now i dont know about Burnley brand but i've used another brand of zinc chloride flux on electronics before, i've never seen any corrosion related or component level failure so far yet. i used to single pass cleaning with normal thinner and rub with tissue. there are 2 issues that i figured out so far though, one is leakage current through adjacent traces because of few Mega ohm it created, not suitable for sensitive accuracy low current low voltage high impedance circuit. and second is high voltage breakdown, anything greater than 50V i think is a big no no, when it breaks down, it act something like a short. my no brand tip corroded in months of usage though by the neck (upper part of the tip) not right on top of the tip. so something much much more aggresive than zinc chloride must have eaten the OP's tip. but your and anybody's advice on ZnCl unsuitability for electronics is pretty much valid though, because of the said issues, ymmv.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 10:16:43 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on February 02, 2019, 02:03:03 pmTHAT explains why I have dentures now. Dammit.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 10:21:31 pm
content: Well, if you regularly used Burnley acid zinc chloride paste flux on your teeth, I'm surprised you have gums left to seat your dentures on! Do you by any chance resemble a horror movie hillbilly?

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 11:01:56 pm
content: My first reaction when I saw "zinc chloride" wasAs said above, it is a flux used in plumbing - and it is as old as the hills.I was first introduced to it by my grandfather when I was just a wee lad, where it was called "killed spirits". You could make it yourself by dropping pieces of zinc into some hydrochloric acid until the fizzing stopped. The word "aggressive" in describing its action seems less than adequate.Using it on anything made me feel uncomfortable, but electrical connections - definitely not! Steer clear of it.

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 11:02:35 pm
content: Two other points, while I'm here...1. Overheating. This is where the iron it hotter than it needs to be. This can cause several problems:- Greatly increased risk of damaging components, PCB tracks and wire insulation- Accelerated aging of the iron, especially the tip- Burning off the flux before it can do its job- Accelerated oxidation of the metals you're trying to join, if you have no effective flux... not to mention the corrosive effect of a hot acidic flux on any metal it touches.2. Lead free solder. As a hobbyist, stay away from it if you can. It's a challenge to use, especially if you are new to the skill. Lead free is specified because of the sheer volume of products that are soldered in the commercial world. The small amount used (by comparison) of even the most avid hobbyist, is of little consequence.

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 11:13:31 pm
content: I am also surprised by the butane instead of electric as it must be much more expensive, complicated, inconvenient and impossible to regulate well. I would think it would only make sense if there is no access to electricity.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 11:27:49 pm
content: Actually, I used to prefer my Oryx Portasol gas iron to a Weller TCP solderstation. It has a much shorter wrking distance between the grip annd the tip, heats up quicker, and at full flow has more power. Although it doesn't have closed loop temperature control, with enough practice, you could regulate it well enough for most work and was quicker and easier to adjust compared to changing TCP Magnastat bits to change the temperature. The Weller TCP only got switched on for *long* soldering sessions. Gas was a negligible consumable cost, as regular sized cans of butane were available from the dollar store and each gave many fills. I no longer have the Weller TCP station as maintaining the Magnastat switch in the iron was becoming increasingly difficult, and spares for the iron were becoming ever more expensive.Zinc chloride is hygroscopic and deliquescent, so even if you start with dry zinc chloride, it adsorbs any traces of moisture available and tends to eventually liquefy. In solution it partially disassociates to form zinc hydroxides and hydrochloric acid. Heating hydrated zinc chloride liberates hydrogen chloride fumes. The only fluxes more evil than it are fluoride based brazing fluxes.Hydrochloric acid is notorious for its fumes corroding metal surfaces, ruining precision equipment. It can flash rust steel in minutes, and the usual advice is never store it in the same room as precision equipment unless its in a well ventilated fume cupboard. One bottle of conc. hydrochloric acid with a stopper that isn't an absolutely perfect seal can ruin a whole workshop full of machine tools in only a few months.

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2019, 11:45:55 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on February 02, 2019, 11:27:49 pmI have never used a gas iron and your post makes me think I could use one on many occasions. Not infrequently I see myself walking with a hot, unplugged iron to where I need to work and then walking back to plug it in again when it cools down.My electric irons do not have temperature control and I am quite used to working around that. If it has been a while in the holder and I need less heat I blow on it. If I just used it and I need a lot of heat I'll wait a bit. I might look into a gas iron although I guess I cannot buy them on eBay or by mail due to the gas.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2019, 12:02:49 am
content: Of course you can buy them mail order. The manufacturers purge the gas after testing them. I used to regularly fly with a Portasol iron and never had any problems with security inspections as I always vented as much gas as possible out before flying and packed a note that it had no gas in it with it. However that did mean I always had to buy a can of gas locally on arrival.

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 03, 2019, 01:14:00 am
content: I have a couple of gas-powered irons. They are convenient on occasions and can offer hot air and blowtorch functions as well, if you need them. You do have to be careful about the hot air from the exhaust ports of the soldering tip, though.Quote from: Ian.M on February 03, 2019, 12:02:49 amThat is useful. I've never needed to take one in an aircraft, but know I know how to do it if I need to.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2019, 01:26:08 am
content: Quote from: Brumby on February 03, 2019, 01:14:00 amHowever, its good for doing small to medium heatshrink jobs - hold the side of the portasol tip combustion chamber under the sleeving on the item to be shrunk, about a centimeter below it, and slowly turn the item, working along its length till done!

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 03, 2019, 01:56:51 am
content: Yeah - I admit to having done that myself when I've been too lazy to change to the "hot blow" tip.