Where can I find a Multi-meter 200mA fuse? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2020, 09:01:53 pm
content: I'll let you all get a good laugh, but I need to find one of these fuses. Any ideas where I might find one locally, or is this going to be an order item only?It's about 3/4" long and 200mA. It says HV510 on it, which I assume is the designator for the size and amperage?

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2020, 09:18:34 pm
content: The dimensions are the metric standard 5 x 20 mm, and the current rating is 200 mA.HV510 is the fuse type. DMM fuses have special specifications for safety purposes, and arequiteexpensive.If you search the forum, you will find many, many threads complaining about the cost, with some useful suggestions of where to find them.Home Depot has them for about $10:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-200mA-600-Volt-Replacement-Fuse-69031/206825588

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2020, 09:25:53 pm
content: Yep. I was about to post the same link.Its a 20mm 600V fast acting ceramic fuse, probably sand-filled.If its strictly for personal use under 50V I know of (but cannot condone) people who havetemporarilyused a glass fuse with heatshrink over the body to reduce the carnage if it ruptures, but be aware that the meter's CAT rating is now null and void, you risk another fuse-blowing 'idiot moment' damaging the current shunts*, and you'd better tag it 'UNSAFE - DO NOT USE' and keep it under lock and key if there's any risk of it getting 'borrowed'.N.B. I'm from the generation that grew up with analog meters with glass fuses and brittle cases; CAT ratings hadn't even been invented yet, so my definition of 'acceptable risk' is probably a lot looser than the youngsters who've only trained on CAT rated DMMs regard as acceptable.* If you were an idiot before you had the 'idiot moment' and you were using it over 50V with a fake or glass fuse it may do worse than blow its shunts before the fuse clears, it may blow up in your face!

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2020, 10:02:54 pm
content: Most 5x20mm fuses are 250VAC rated, they are simply too short to handle a higher voltage arc unless sand-filled.That fuseASTM HV5105x20mm 200mA 600VAC 1kA used in Klein Tools multimeters. It's low interrupt rating is just for home/car use.EEVblog store sellsASTM fuse kits for DMM'swith larger 400mA 6x32mm and 11A 10x38mm at a low cost.

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2020, 10:24:46 pm
content: Quote from: TimFox on September 03, 2020, 09:18:34 pmGeeze, I can replace the entire meter for 18.00. It's the Amazon brand Commercial:https://www.amazon.com/AmazonCommercial-Manual-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B07VY41YHM/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=amazon+digital+multimeter&qid=1599171734&sr=8-7So 7 bucks more gets me a new unit. Not just a fuse.

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2020, 10:59:14 pm
content: Safety isn't cheap.The usual way to blow that fuse is to accidentally connect the meter in current mode across the AC mains. Depending on where you connect it (with respect to circuit breakers, etc.) there will be a huge current available to cause damage and injury to the person holding the meter. Look up the meaning of the various "categories" to make clear what the safety considerations are.You can probably find a cheaper authentic fuse, but you wanted a local source. The Amazon listing (in the Q&A) says that replacement fuses are available from Amazon.Again, check the forum about multimeter fuses, and you will also find complaints about counterfeit fuses that do not meet spec that are available at far cheaper prices.

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2020, 11:52:20 pm
content: Quote from: TimFox on September 03, 2020, 10:59:14 pmYeah I saw that response on Amazon. Someone begin a smart ass. They are available on "Amazon" for 13 bucks each. Geeze, the meter is 18.00 bucks (I got it when it was 13.00 intro price). Somehow, Amazon must be getting them cheaper than 10 bucks, or they would have to charge a lot more for the meter. It seems that model is a Klein fuse.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 12:12:49 am
content: You *could* down-grade it to CAT I 300V, by totally eradicating the old CAT markings, relabeling, and also disabling the 600V ranges (probably just remove one resistor) and fit a cheap 250V 200mA ceramic fast fuse.I wouldn't trust its CAT III rating further than I could throw it standing on the probes! If you are working on building wiring, get a real CAT III or better meter from a reputable manufacturer.

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 03:36:08 am
content: Quote from: Ian.M on September 03, 2020, 09:25:53 pmDid you mean since the fuse blew it is null and void, or did you mean if I used a glass fuse?

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 04:55:19 am
content: Any substitution with a glass fuse would void its CAT rating. Not even safe for CAT 1. Derate to current limited SELV or PELV unofficial usage only. As Floobydust pointed out, it takes a sand fill to clear the arc at its fuses rated voltage and only 20mm length, and glass is highly unlikely to contain the likely energy release if it did have a sand fill. Without a fill, if you were dumb enough to use it for CAT III work anywhere near its voltage rating, you'd be one slip of a probe from a sustained arc in the fuse, which will basically detonate it, and depending on exactly how the PCB and casing fail (and they will if the energy isn't limited, either by source impedance or an effective fuse clearing the fault), possibly involving the operator in a full-on arc flash. If you aren't wearing the right PPE which is little short of full NASA 'moonsuit'*, there are significant odds that you'll become a 'crispy critter' and much higher odds that you'll receive severe permanent life-altering injuries, that will make you wish you hadn't survived.I've used multimeters that had no better protection than a 20mm glass fuse, a totally unfused 10A range, and a brittle plastic case, but even back before CAT rating was a thing, anyone with any electrical savvy knew that working on 415V three phase distribution with such a meter had high odds of a very bad outcome, and should be left to the pros who had the high quality gear that various manufacturers were developing towards what eventually became the CAT rating system. Even at 240V, unless downstream of a BS1362 ceramic fuse or similar, you isolated, hooked up the meter, stood back and cut the power back on to take a reading, and isolated again before even getting really close to, or god forbid, touching the meter or test leads.* Only in that it doesn't need to provide sustained life support or maintain pressure, An explosively expanding cloud of copper and steel plasma is transiently a far more hostile environment than the lunar surface at lunar noon. If you've got the right PPE and are reasonably lucky, it will protect you *ONCE*, then have to be written off.

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 07:27:46 am
content: Quote from: Ian.M on September 04, 2020, 04:55:19 amWell, the fuse doesn't work on AC anyway. I was just testing current with 12V DC. I don't think I'd ever stick anything into a 600V application or even get near it. I'd use my meter to test 240V, just to test voltage, but that would be my limit.When I worked in the oil fields, when I was young and working IN the field, when it was raining, we'd use a 10' wooden pole to switch off the jack pumps that used three phase. Some of those motors were running over 500V and 70A. I mostly stayed away from the power end of them.I just forgot to change the leads when I was testing 12V 1.6A. And, poof. No more fuseI knew exactly what I did the second I did it, too.What confuses me is that Amazon is selling that model for 16-25 bucks. Obviously, they aren't paying 5-10 bucks for a single 200mA fuse. At 500mA, the price drops 50%. But, it's not a 500mA fuse.I'm just not buying a 10.00 fuse for a 16.00 meter (on sale right now). I have two more meters.

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 08:04:58 am
content: Its a 5x20mm fuse in a cheap meter, I'm surprised they used the near unobtanium 600v rated ones, you are lucky it's ceramic.Replace it with a standard 250v 5x20 ceramic fuse and don't use the meter in current ranges on over 250v or "beyond the wall socket", like you were ever going to use a cheap ass meter on over 250v or beyond the wall socket anyway.I should open a cotton wool factory, I'd make a frickin fortune.

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 04:40:09 pm
content: Quote from: sleemanj on September 04, 2020, 08:04:58 amThe meter isn't really an "Amazon" meter. I found a review on it, and the guy tore it down and one of the commenters said it's really a rebranded CEM meter. Anyway, here is the review, which sold me on it, and he tears it down:

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 05:27:22 pm
content: Although a fuse from Home Depot is expensive for a fuse, it's still $10. Might as well go for it.For me, personally, I've used old style glass fuse of similar ratings. I never use those meters for anything higher than household mains voltage. (120V) It's inside a durable plastic casing, so blowing up is very unlikely. It'll probably just burn a resistor or the meter assembly itself. It's an old analog meter and it actually came original with those glass fuse.For anything that matters, like Fluke, or bench-top type, I'd go with the correct fuse.

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 06:37:47 pm
content: Quote from: tkamiya on September 04, 2020, 05:27:22 pmI can get a completely new meter (same one) for 16 bucks right now. Amazon has them on sale. So, for 6 dollars more, I could have completely new meter, not "new" matters, but it's just the principle.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 07:01:27 pm
content: So do that, and put this meter aside till you can get a good deal on a few 'good enough' fuses Then you've got four meters with two of them the same, (which can be useful) + spare fuses.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 07:06:41 pm
content: With only 6 bucks more for a complete meter (likely including a battery), I would consider writing off the current range on the old meter. Usually voltage and most important the beeper still work when the fuse is gone.It does not matter if one usually only measures voltage. The usual scenario were a high power fuse is needed is accidentally having the lead still in the socket for current and than trying to measure the mains voltage.Anyway such a cheap meter is usually only good for cat II at best, that is at an household outlet with no extra high fuse rating and not within some 20 feet of the fuse panel. Too close to the fuse panel, with short wires it happens that the mains fuses (e.g. rated for some 10 kA brake capability) fail. I have seen such a case at university - even normal 3x1.5 mm² cable changed color and finally the 3 rd fuse at some 63 A rating stopped the current.

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 07:56:06 pm
content: I come from days when fuses aren't part of multi-meters. We somehow survived. Obviously, one has to take precautions and know what he/she is doing.If I had a multi-meter which only thing wrong is a fuse, I'll just stick in something or even jumper it and throw it in my car to carry around. I think we tend to be overly cautious and rely on regulations too much to save us from ourselves. (and forget the basics)For anything that matters, those inexpensive meters won't do. Properly rated and guaranteed ones are the only way to go. You know, just in case something unexpected happens. This is coming from someone who has seen industrial accidents. (a limb was lost in that one)

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 07:58:42 pm
content: How much do you guys trust UL, CE, ETL, and other certification markings on stuff? The way things are going in low end of the market, I would think it's too easy and tempting to just put them on and hope no one will ever look it up. I actually had an occasion to contact UL to see what it would take to get their certifications. I forgot the exact number but it was way beyond reasonable for things we were going to sell. So the whole project was scrapped.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2020, 05:44:55 pm
content: North America has a problem letting in imported goods that have no/fake/inadequate electrical safety approvals. I'm not sure why it keeps going on. Last I saw was chinese christmas lights that would burn down the house, absolute rubbish. The CE label is being abused, it means nothing unless you have integrity.With the table was flipped, I could not sell anything to other countries without meeting all of their country-specific standards. It seem to be one-sided trade protection.These fuses are all crazy overpriced. Fluke DMM 440mA fuse is USD $38 atDigikeyor Mouser, 10-20% of the multimeter's price!For two metal caps, some melamine and a piece of fuse wire and sand. I'd like to make them at home and earn more money than engineers lol.Yes the fuse's regulatory approvals are very expensive. UL is known as the best and also the most expensive- so people are moving to Intertek and other agencies. Fuse manufacturers can do their own in-house testing and approvals if they are big enough, so it does not cost them near as much.But there is no justification for the price-gouging happening with fuses. It's created a huge counterfeit market.

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2020, 01:23:56 pm
content: Don't replace the fuse at all. Just leave the socket empty, and use this as a voltage-only meter. Buy the replacement meter and use it for current readings. You will frequently wish you had multiple meters, to measure (e.g.) voltage and current at the same time. You will rarely need to measure two mA range currents at the same time.By not replacing the fuse at all, you significantly improve the safety of the meter compared to using an improper unsafe fuse. Imagine the consequences of forgetting to move the leads from the mA socket to V socket before measuring 240 V... With no fuse, there is no current path and little danger. With a glass fuse, who knows. Ian.M painted an ugly picture of a worst-case scenario.

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2020, 05:12:42 pm
content: Quote from: macboy on September 10, 2020, 01:23:56 pmThe 10Amp fuse for current still works fine too. I just blew the 200mA side. I can still get a .2 or .1 mA reading from the 10 Amp side. That's good enough for what I mainly do.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2020, 09:48:25 pm
content: I would feel the pain, and just replace the fuse to keep the multimeter as it was.The fuse is also inKlein Toolsmultimeters, the website map lists distributors. I would call some electrical supply houses and ask what they have for multimeter fuses, as they always sell Klein Tools.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2020, 10:49:59 pm
content: I have meters where I blew the low range fuse accidentally and replaced them with the glass equivalent (if the meter is cheap), do not replace it at all (when it is tiny and hard to find, such as the Richmeters RM102Pro) or with the real deal (when the meter is worth its salt). Before the rain of criticisms against the use of glass fuses, I am also from the same time as Ian (and others) above: glass or no fuse measuring 220VAC @2~5A and the meter was so damn expensive (and your only one) that you WILL pay attention to what you are doing or you will eat only flies and Noodles for a year until you get enough money to replace it.

author: Ground_Loop
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2020, 07:04:03 pm
content: Quote from: rsjsouza on September 10, 2020, 10:49:59 pmExactly, The safety ninnies on here act like a glass fuse in a meter will be instant death.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2020, 07:13:39 pm
content: A glass fuse isn't instant death, however a mistake probing a high voltage circuit that can supply more current than the glass fuse is rated to interrupt without rupturing could be. Its low odds but the potential outcome is so horrific that you'd be well advised to never enter the arc flash 'lottery'.I own a couple of 'glass fuse' multimeters from the era before CAT ratings. They didn't magically become less safe when CAT ratings were introduced. I'm happy to use them on the bench, even on mains circuits, downstream of adequate fast-acting circuit protection, but would *NEVER* use them if working on my breaker panel.

author: Ground_Loop
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2020, 07:39:27 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on September 11, 2020, 07:13:39 pmI've been in industrial control and process design for nearly forty years. I've seen every type of meter in every type of condition used in every type of way on everything from mV to 12KV. Not once have I ever seen anyone hurt using one, even with 'after market' fuses. In fact, I watched a guy scram a nuclear reactor taking voltage measurements on rod drive power with probes in wrong jacks. The plain ole glass fuse blew, tripped the reactor, and that was the end of it, except for his 'retraining'.Further, I assure you I'm versed in arc flash issues.Your risk tolerance is clearly lower than many and that's ok. But suggesting someone mark a meter as dangerous do not use just because it doesn't have the magic fuse is a bit over the top.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2020, 08:25:00 pm
content: I've seen 6.3x32mm glass fuses on 120VAC vaporized chrome on the inside and all black, they don't explode or crack but if only there were some way to quench the arc.Maybe a little bit of sand. Something from a beach, low cost.Arc flash happens in industry and my hands, my eyes are worth the extra few bucks of a proper HRC fuse.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 07:54:45 am
content: While voiding the CAT rating (so that would a no go for commercial use), I certainly would use a glass fuse for my private meter. To harm the user in case of an explosion (never heard of one), the fragments would need to penetrate the thick plastic casing (*very* unlikely) and then penetrate the users cloth and skin (unless you are putting your eye on the point of explosion). Not going to happen. If you are still feeling unsafe, put one or two layers of heat shrink over it (without shrinking).That would be a nice Blog2-experiment - how much energy has to be blasted into a poor glass fuse to detonate.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 10:46:55 am
content: I agree thatON YOUR BENCH, testing a plug-in mains device that does NOT have a SMPSU*, on an outlet with 16A or lower over current protection, with a 120V supply, the risk of rupturing a glass fuse is minimal. At 230V there certainly is a chance it will rupture, (I've replaced enough 20mm glass fuses in appliances that have come out in small pieces), but usually it will more-or-less hold together. Higher voltages? Well first show me a normal size glass fuse with more than a 250V rating - if its not rated for the voltage don't use it!However, if the circuit can supply a short-circuit current grossly in excess of the fuse's interrupt current rating, this can happen:which I *NEVER* want to see in person!* Devices with a SMPSU without power factor correction typically have a mains-fed full-wave rectifier followed by a (or a series pair of) reservoir capacitor(s). With 230V mains, or if designed with a switchable voltage doubler to permit dual voltage operation from 230 V or 115V there will typically be 325V DC (and possibly as much as 360V during high line conditions) across that capacitor with enough energy available in larger PSUs to rupture a glass fuse. SMPSUs with power factor correction have different topologies, but there is still likely to be a high voltage, significant energy DC bus present.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 04:06:52 pm
content: Quote from: DW1961 on September 10, 2020, 05:12:42 pmFor what it's worth, the fact you blew the fuse is a sign to take a step back and review how to use a multimeter.If you do need to measure smaller currents, do as Ian.M said and put in a lesser fuse, but with a warning on the meter.As it is, two of my regular distributors here in Europe (Distrelec and Reichelt) sell the fuse you need (as the PeakTech P7707) for about $2.50 each, in a 10-pack (Distrelec) or individually (Reichelt). I could get them and drop them in the mail for you for another $4 in postage, or (in theory) bring them on my next trip home to USA and send them via USPS, but of course corona has obliterated any chances of going to the States anytime soon.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 04:53:34 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on September 12, 2020, 10:46:55 amHonestly, all those "exploding multimeter" videos are kind of BS. The A and V used to demonstrate the danger of an exploding multimeter exceeds the household parameters by a huge factor. Sure, if you are driving 10kV with 25kA available current into your iPhone, it will explode. All those showcases are in areas where an experienced electrician is required, and I assume even they will be scared and very, very careful. Btw. isn't it required to wear gloves, eye protection, helmet etc. when working around this kind of danger level?I still consider the glass fuse replacement for household use a pretty safe one...

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 05:25:08 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on September 12, 2020, 10:46:55 amThat's nasty. The description on Youtube says it was caused by the fuses not being able to stop the short--measuring voltage when in current mode.

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 05:38:46 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on September 12, 2020, 04:06:52 pmI can assess how to use a MM all day long, but that isn't going to stop my lack of concentration--lol. I was measuring more than 200mA without changing the leads. Just a duh moment. As soon as the meter said 000 I knew what I had done.Seriously? 2.50 each? That would be really nice of you. However, it's not needed. I have another Amazon MM just like that one. What happened was after I bought the first one, I noticed the beeper was anemic. I thought it was bad, so I contacted Amazon and they sent another one out free, and told me to keep the other one. So I got two of them, back when they were selling for 13.00 each. The buzzer in the new one sounded exactly the same. Oh well, Beezos can afford it.

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 07:37:49 pm
content: Loool, lots of answers on the verge of paranoia here. Being cautious is a good thing but one step and paranoia sets in.First of all, I would never use such instrument on high energy circuits.Second, if the OP is worried about the price, that means he's, most likely, using it for hobby/personal/domestic use. I don't think there are many home labs with such high energy circuits that can blow up a glass fuse rated at 250V in such a way that puts the operator in danger. When working in the power distribution panel, there are bigger dangers than the fuse in the meter.So yeah, the 250V glass fuse is fine.Edit: Locally I would buy thishttps://shop.sayal.com/products/fbd-200m-250-10?_pos=3&_sid=5063da911&_ss=ror thishttps://shop.sayal.com/products/fbd-250m-250-10?_pos=4&_sid=c5873784c&_ss=r

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 11:43:47 pm
content: Quote from: Miti on September 12, 2020, 07:37:49 pmI'm just using it to measure DC 12-24V current. I'm not even using it to measure AC current at all. So far, I really don't have a reason to do that, although I may. But like you said, it will never be anything larger than my home panel. Also, it was only the 200mA fuse. Teh 10A current fuse is intact.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 02:37:19 am
content: If there's *any* chance of it being used on a 240V appliance or circuit, why would you take the risk of using a glass fuse, when you can get a sand filled ceramic 20mm 200mA fuse, with a 1.5KA @ 250V interrupt rating, for as little as $1.45, dropping to $1.12 if you buy ten?https://mou.sr/3mg9u9JSharpie out its 'CAT III 600V' rating marking, and the '600V MAX' between the sockets, relabel the 600V ranges as 250V ranges, and call it good (but *NOT* for CAT III use).

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 04:47:18 am
content: Quote from: Ian.M on September 13, 2020, 02:37:19 amOnly $1.45, but 8 bucks to ship. I mean, they could put it in a bubble envelope and shit it USPS for 2 bucks. At least there is the option to buy 10 or more of them. But, I'm probably going to never need this fuse again. If I need that specific meter, I'll surely buy either a new one, for 16.00, or the fuse. I can also check Grainger locally.Just to be clear, that Mouser fuse would keep the meters CAT rating, right? It's rated the same as the fuse that came out of it?

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 09:56:39 am
content: No. The original fuse was ASTM HV510.0.2 which was rated to interrupt 1000A@600V AC. Anything except exact equivalent replacement voids its CAT rating*. With the suggested 250V ceramic fuse in, I'd personally be happy to use it on my bench at under 250V, or generally in the field on low voltage circuits (<50V).Oddly enough, I've got a near-identical meter on the shelf, and was inspired to do a mini-teardown. To my horror, I found original 250V glass fuses! My trust in its claimed "CAT III 600V" rating is now near zero, and ordering a couple of sand-filled ceramic 20mm 250V 200mA and 10A fast fuses has just jumped up my priority list.* I believe several of us are suspicious of its CAT III 600V rating in the first place, to the point that we would absolutely refuse to use a 'factory fresh' Amazon 90DM120 DMM (or any other DT912A clone) on a three phase 415V circuit that fell within CAT III.

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 11:45:29 am
content: Quote from: Ian.M on September 13, 2020, 09:56:39 amExactly, that must be Chinese Siamese cat, most likely.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 01:48:41 pm
content: Quote from: DW1961 on September 13, 2020, 04:47:18 amIn practice, if you never do current measurements on AC, the type of fuse is irrelevant provided you never plug the leads on uA/mA/A - sure, nobody deliberately does this but instead messes up in a moment of distraction or fatigue.And that is why I really dislike meters with shared uA/mA and V/ohms. In your particular meter, an overrotation past the 200V~ and you get a short of the input jacks - pretty idiotic design, really. Even still, for a meter around the house but not on the main distribution panel, glass fuses are fine. You may get some poof or bang but chances of harm are really small.Also, just like you, I really hate the lies on the CAT ratings, but that is a fact of life - the morale values descend to new lower levels when $$$ is involved and it goes unchecked.

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 02:57:39 pm
content: Quote from: rsjsouza on September 13, 2020, 01:48:41 pmThat meter doesn't even have AC current capabilities.

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 03:08:02 pm
content: To be honest, I would put that meter in the same category as this Equus 4320 and check its CAT rating. Now that I believe.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 03:27:28 pm
content: Quote from: Miti on September 13, 2020, 02:57:39 pmNope. Nor does its 'brother' from Amazon.It also doesn't have a low AC voltage range, nor does it do frequency which means, apart from DC current, its less capable than my OEM badgedBryman BM22pocket DMM.I certainly wont be doing this:(from Amazon'sproduct page)with it even if I lived in a 120V country!

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 05:21:23 pm
content: Quote from: Miti on September 13, 2020, 02:57:39 pmYUP!,I misquoted myself, really. It does not have an AC current function. However, it does have the correct CAT rating fuses in it.

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 05:32:31 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on September 13, 2020, 03:27:28 pmDid you watch the youtube video of the tear down the guy did on it? He said it had al of the UL necessities for the CAT III rating. The back of the case also fits down into the other sections and completely walls off both fuses. He didn't mention any MOVs though, but went over several other protections in it. There are some pretty good images of it in that video posted in this thread.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 06:22:11 pm
content: CAT III 600V rating my hairy @rse!There's under a mm between the 10A socket pad and the left pad of the 10A current shunt R9. If it arcs over or otherwise bridges it will bypass the 10A fuse. 1mm is *barely* enough creepage distance for functional insulation at 400V, so if the circuit you are testing carries over 400V or has significant inductance, when the 10A fuse blows, odds are it will fail to clear the fault, due to arcing across the PCB, outside the internal enclosure round the fuse.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 07:29:58 pm
content: I tend to agree with Ian.M there; the clearances look quite feeble for the voltages, but the only way to be 100% sure is the test itself. That and the fact the standard EN61010 is not entirely clear if it cares for the survivability of the meter or the operator, makes it harder to be absolutely sure of that (joeqsmith and I and others have talked at lengths about this in discussions areund here).

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 07:33:51 pm
content: Quote from: Miti on September 13, 2020, 02:57:39 pmYou are right; I didn't see this, but the shared input jack still puts it at risk.

author: DW1961
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 11:43:00 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on September 13, 2020, 06:22:11 pmIf you are taking about the Amazon MM, you need to watch the tear down I posted here. It's completely bladed off because that's how the cover is designed. The top cover separates off all the fuses into their own boxes, and the battery compartment separates off the top and bottom and left and right areas.and other circuitry. It's well bladed. The fuse is isolated from the shunt. I don't know if that is good enough, but at least it does have that.It's hard to see in his video, but in my personal meter, you can see the plastic blades completely isolating the fuses and the fuse on the right from the shunt itself.