hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
PACE ST-25 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: BIGBILLY
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 25, 2021, 04:19:50 pm
content: Hi, I am having a difficult time deciding between the PACE ST25 and ADS200. Was wondering if the ads200 is worth the extra money. Furthermore how does the WJS100 compare to the other two. Thanks in advance.Best Regards,BILLY

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2021, 04:57:55 pm
content: Yes, quick change tips with integrated heating elements are worth any increase in price.Also, for some inexplicable reason ADS200 tips are much cheaper, even though they are much more complex in their design.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2021, 08:24:40 am
content: The Pace ADS200 is essentially a ST/WJS station combined. It's newer technology and uses two new series of cartridge tips on the TD200 handpiece, 1130 standard and 1131 ultra tips. The station also runs the MT200 mini tweezers. Pace plans on releasing the 3 channel MBT450 which should have built in vacuum for desoldering.The only reason you would run the ST is if you wanted to run some of their older handpieces. The WJS was high power but only ran the one soldering handpiece.So Pace ADS200 w/TD200 is the way to go, get the ISB (instant setback) version, plus a few different carts.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2021, 01:16:01 pm
content: Quote from: ataradov on March 25, 2021, 04:57:55 pmNo, they’re not.I suspect you are making the same mistake I initially did when first looking at PS-90 tip prices, namely, not realizing that Pace’s pricing is often for packs of five. Many resellers break those down and sell tips individually, but one has to realize that Pace’s own descriptions don’t expressly say it’s for 5 pieces. I now know Pace part numbers end in package size, e.g. 1121-0335-P5 means it’s a 5 pack.1121-0335-P5 is a standard 1/16” chisel, $43 for five. The same tip geometry for the TD-200 is 1130-0019-P1, $16 for one.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2021, 06:46:22 pm
content: Ok, that makes more sense, but in the end you still pay more. I solder quite a bit and have never worn out a tip. So if I have to buy 5 at a time, I'm still wasting money.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2021, 04:22:38 am
content: They do sell the variety packs like this one 6993-0210. Doesn't make sense for home use but does in an industrial/manufacturing situation.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2021, 07:58:36 am
content: Quote from: ataradov on March 27, 2021, 06:46:22 pmOh, for sure. I’ve also never worn out a tip, and I totally agree with your initial statement that cartridge heater tips are worth the price premium. The PS-90 handle is obsolete technology that is good enough to keep around if you (esp. a company) already have a big investment in that type of equipment, but certainly not what I’d buy for a new setup.Me, Iwantan ADS 200, i just don’t have anylegitimateexcuse for replacing my Ersa with it! 😂 (That and a lack of spare cash, lol.)
Pace st-25e station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Cuboy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2018, 01:32:48 pm
content: Hello Everyone,Today i bought a Pace st-25 station (in its black color) for a very, very cheap price.I was wondering which tips it uses, while searching for some info i found out that can come with various handles, mine i think its the ps 90 handle.While i was searching, i found out on ebay that the tips are expensive, is there any way to find them for less. What are some cheap tips that are compatible with the handle?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2018, 01:48:15 pm
content: Did you notice that for that iron, the tips are sold in packs of 5? So that's the "high" price you're seeing.

author: Cuboy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2018, 02:12:54 pm
content: I am just looking for cheap alternatives to use, do those exist?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2018, 02:18:39 pm
content: Doubtful —PACE is a high-end brand whose typical customers (e.g. US military and aerospace) aren't going to even consider non-original parts.I'd look to see if you can find any vendors who sell individual tips instead of whole packs. Or send a message to the PACE representative Aaron who is active here on the forums.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2018, 02:24:06 pm
content: If the iron is the PS-90 it's the 1121 series.For example 1121-0335-P5 is 1121 series, 0335 tip, packet of 5.As the 1121 also covers the TT-65 tweezers and the SX-100/90 desoldering iron look up the shape prior to purchasing or double check in the consumables catalog. If buying off Ebay I'd check if they are selling them as singles or packs.https://www.paceworldwide.com/products/tips-and-nozzles/soldering-iron-tips/ps90-tipshttps://www.paceworldwide.com/products/tips-and-nozzles/soldering-iron-tips/ps90-tips/ps90-soldering-tips?works_with=10475https://www.paceworldwide.com/sites/default/files/ConsumablesCatalog_F.pdf
Pace to Hakko-style handpiece conversion - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kittenfight
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 15, 2013, 06:04:10 am
content: EE noob here -- please bear with meHas anyone done this before? I have modified my Pace MBT-200 to accept the clone (Aoyue) handpieces, and when I turn on the unit, it glows cherry red (means excess of 480*C). Per the wiring layout (this isnota Sensatemp-enabled unit), there are four wires -- one carries the 24 VAC output, another provides the feedback from the T2806D triac, and ground. The last wire goes to the NTE263 transistor that operates the vacuum function when it is bridged to Ground.The reason I've done this is because I will be sending the MBT-200 to a friend back home in Manila sometime next year -- and as far as I know, there are very few (and far) companies selling Pace spare parts there, and even less for support. I've had better luck finding replacement heaters for Hakko handpieces south of Metro Manila.I've changed the original RCA T2806D triacs thinking they might be the culprit, but temperature still shoots up as if I've dialed the pots to max.
Package adapter question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2012, 08:45:41 am
content: I have a sample in auSOT 10package.I'm looking for a adapter PCB to be able to use it with some experiments.I have foundthis PCBand I THINK it is the same pin pitch (0.5 mm) but I am not sure if the width is the same. So will both rows of pins touch the copper pads when I solder it on there...?An adapter board to a DIP socket would also totally work...Any ideas?Thanx,Marc

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2012, 09:57:13 am
content: It will barely fit, but I think you can make it work. The uSOT10 pins will barely overlay the landing pads, maybe 1mm of each PAD will be covered at most.The outside edge of the uSOT10 pads is about the same width as the inside edge of the pads on the TSSOP38. It's ok for breadboardind, you can probablymake it work. I've made a quick graphic to compare the two, it's almost to scale.Why not use a proper MSOP10 adapter? here's one. Maybe there are others.http://www.proto-advantage.com/store/datasheets/PA0027.pdf

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2012, 10:47:36 am
content: Thank you for the suggestion. That looks really good.It will cost me just under $10,= to get it where I live, but its for a good cause

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2012, 02:49:31 pm
content: And the end result is not bad, considering its my first SMD hand-soldering

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2012, 06:20:15 am
content: It looks good! you did a great job! thanks for posting the update.Does it seem excessively large to you? it looks like the board is so big compared to the chip. I realize it's a small chip, but still... does it really need all that real-estate or do you think they went a little too large?

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2012, 06:56:55 am
content: No, the board is about as small as it can be (+/- 12mm x 17mm). I guess that if you really tried you could shrink it down even further but you'd have to have enough room for the pins to solder on (back side). They're the SMD kind where one pin is on one side (of the pin row) and the next pin on the other and so on (alternating). So that takes up some room.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2012, 08:13:58 am
content: Quote from: codeboy2k on June 21, 2012, 06:20:15 amThe body of the IC is only 3mm square. A regular 0.1" DIP is huge in comparison.

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2012, 08:45:08 am
content: Correct. there is 0.5 mm between pins. Its tiny!
Package drawings with min max pitch  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: DroneBuster
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2016, 02:47:01 pm
content: Hello,I was drawing footprint for IRS2334 SOIC package (http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irs2334pbf.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a40153567aa9fe280b) and I was amazed that pitch was given as MIN 1.018 mm and MAX 1.524 mm. What dimension should I use for drawing pitch? Use average which is 1.271?

author: icecold
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 27, 2016, 03:03:10 pm
content: According to your calculation and wikipedia I would use 1.27https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_Outline_Integrated_Circuit

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2016, 08:21:56 pm
content: Eww, shitty underdimensioned drawings.They don't follow IPC convention on symbols (A = height, C = width, D = length, etc., or whatever it is), either.Presumably, what they mean is not that each pin gap can be that range, independently, but that that's the maximum for any pin, and that each pin (relative to an unspecified datum) has to land within that range of its ideal placement, given the typical (1.27mm) pitch.This is most often specified using IEC drawing conventions, where the pins are shown relative to a datum, their ideal locations given by REF dimensions, and the tolerances added to features (relative to the datum) with labels. This is better than the above condition, because one can specify whether the tolerances apply to most- or least- material condition (MMC/LMC), and what the statistics of those dimensions are (the most likely error for a pin, is that it's bent; so the pin angle can be specified, or the positional tolerance of the tip of the pin).Tim
Packaging doubts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Benjam
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2022, 12:28:37 am
content: Can you tell what kind of package this is from this picture? Currently I only know that it is 8 pins.Specifically, it's not just SOIC8, its height is 1.10mm(body)

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2022, 12:32:44 am
content: where are the pins ?

author: Benjam
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2022, 12:34:23 am
content: Quote from: free_electron on April 19, 2022, 12:32:44 amThe pin is not drawn, only a body

author: Benjam
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2022, 12:37:20 am
content: My intuition tells me it's like a TI device

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2022, 12:39:58 am
content: Could be anything. But SSOP or TSSOP about that height.
Paco Precision ES-550B? I have one. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jkcobra
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 19, 2018, 01:52:26 am
content: So recently I got this old oscilloscope from a friend who had it sitting in their garage for 20+ years. I really don't know much about it at all. It does turn on and work although I don't know how to run this oscilloscope. I'm interested to see if anyone knows anything about it. All I know is that this one was made in 1959 in Glendale NY. I would be interested to see what something like this is worth nowadays. I honestly think it belongs in a museum.

author: Jkcobra
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 19, 2018, 02:00:49 am
content: Here is a picture of it.

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2018, 02:17:52 am
content: This might help -http://www.oscilloscopemuseum.com/oscilloscope-precision-es-550-sd1136.htmlhttp://www.albinarrate.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=22:vintage&id=42:paco-oscilloscope-es550bhttp://home.windstream.net/enginr/newpage1.htmhttp://www.acrayara.com.ar/biblioteca/public/Manuales%20de%20Equipos/PACO%20Oscilloscope%20ES550B%20Manual.pdfRegards, Dana.

author: Jkcobra
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 19, 2018, 02:46:27 am
content: Yes I have seen these in my Google searches but they don't really provide that much additional info on the unit.
Pads have come off - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: martfoxy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2025, 03:48:12 pm
content: I am trying to solder leds on a weatherstation pcb but some of the pads have come off. Is there anyway of fixing this problem? I didn't really want wires trailing across the board. There are some through pcb holes - is there anyway of soldering a pin or wire into these very small holes to join to the leds? They are too small for anything I have.(less than 1 mm I think). Are there stick on pads that can be soldered on to for example?Thanks

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2025, 02:10:29 am
content: You need to get some 32awg wire and re-connect the broken traces. There is no other option. Even factories use bodge wires to fix errors and do repairs.
PADS newbie question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: MicKud
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 11, 2025, 05:44:43 pm
content: hey, I have a beginers question on PADS design software from Siemens.I have these grey "X" signs, they look like Eagle's connections to the GND plane, that have not been drawn yet.I'm using PADS Layout Viewer VX2.14.1All I need is to have a look at the paths, but these X-signs cover everything up for me.Can you please assist me, and help to hide them?Regards!Michal

author: benj38
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2025, 02:50:56 pm
content: If you are still looking for an answer, the PCB/EDA/CAD board of this forum may be a better place to ask this.It is worth a try.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2025, 03:25:09 pm
content: Looks like a cnc drill layer is enabled.

author: MicKud
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 17, 2025, 08:35:57 am
content: I tried hiding the drill layers, no effect :/
Pads right on edge of board cutout - clearance? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: AQUAMAN
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2020, 09:20:25 pm
content: I need to have pads on my PCB right next to a cutout and also at the edge of the boardAltium is giving me a rule error for this, even though there is no cutout or outline clearance specifiedWill this be a problem in manufacturing if i have pads right on the edge of cutout and board outline?

author: johankj
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2020, 02:34:41 pm
content: I wouldn't think so, this is basically what is done using Plated Half-Holes/Castellated Holes:http://support.seeedstudio.com/knowledgebase/articles/910767-what-are-plated-half-holes-castellated-holes

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2020, 10:55:55 pm
content: You need to check with the PCB vendor as to their specifications. They may charge extra in the case of castellated holes. Although in this case it looks like the pads should not be cut so might be ok.JLCstates "trade to outline" as being >0.2mm for example.QuoteClearance to board edge? The plane is pulled back from the edge as well, so maybe a general clearance rule.
Pairing a hobby project with z-wave products - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2017, 06:27:05 pm
content: Hi,There are lots of home automation products available that implements z-wave protocol. I was thinking to take advantage of existing product by using with hobby project. For example door lock or motion sensor. I want to know is it something we can develop or only licensed companies can? I browsed on internet and found little help regarding protocol but did not find anything significant regarding developing a solution.Thanks.

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2017, 07:32:11 pm
content: I believe i got the answer herehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/z-wave-protocol/msg1266480/#msg1266480
Pairs of anodes and cathodes on one LED? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cbowen
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2019, 03:33:39 am
content: Hey all, just curious why there would be redundant connections on one LED, as seen here:https://cdn.samsung.com/led/file/resource/2018/09/P_0.5W_Super_Red_SPMSR1346EA0_Rev.00.pdfI thought maybe it was for ease of placing LED's in series, but with the same connections on the same side, that can't be it. Is it just for redundancy in case a solder joint breaks? Am I missing it completely? I do understand why there would be multiple connections on a multi-color LED, but this is just one color. Thanks!

author: Ysjoelfir
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2019, 06:10:06 am
content: I would assume that it is for mechanical stability. This specific package is also used for multi colored LEDs, where more pins are needed.

author: Dabbot
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2019, 06:17:37 am
content: It also serves to remove more heat from the device.

author: cbowen
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2019, 05:23:29 pm
content: Thanks everyone. Would I just split the trace from the resistor to both anodes then?

author: Ysjoelfir
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2019, 06:22:40 pm
content: Just place a Poly regionBut a split track will also do just fine for a 500mW LED.
Panametrics NDT US transducer and oscilloscope. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: charlie1653
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 06, 2020, 12:06:34 pm
content: Hi Everyone,I would really appreciate some help on a problem I am having. I am a doctor from Ireland and I want to buy the"Panametrics 26 UltrasonicThickness Gage Detector" - which i saw on Ebay (costsly around 600dollars with shipping)This is for my Masters Research project which will be testing the properties of fake kidney stones! (My background is Urology)This kit was used with the 54201A oscilloscope in 1993.I would buy the Panametrics kit but I am just wondering would this work with any oscilloscope or do they all have different connections between receiver/oscilloscope. (I don't think I could afford an oscilloscope as well so I am thinking of borrowing one of these if I can find it)Thanks very much in advance,Charlie

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2020, 04:55:28 pm
content: Almost certainly it will work with any oscilloscope. Definitely do NOT get a 27-year old scope, it could be a huge effort to get it running.A modern digital scope should work fine, I THINK, but don't really know what sort of screen presentation you are supposed to get.I actually have a 54200A, it works fine, but the menu system is just about the worst thing I have EVER had to use. Anything newer shouldbe much easier to use.Jon

author: charlie1653
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 06, 2020, 05:45:11 pm
content: thanks very much Jon! great stuff
Panasonic CE capacitor? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Peabody
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2020, 02:38:09 pm
content: I'm trying to repair a 1980s vintage Vivitar 3500 flash that no longer whines. The electrolytic capacitor in the charge pump circuit measures a good bit of ESR on my scope as compared to other caps I have of the same value. So I need to replace it, but don't know if there's anything special about it. It is tiny - 7mm tall, 4mm in diameter, and has the Matsushita empty-triangle logo, which I assume is now Panasonic. The markings are:10uF 16VCE 85C433BI can't find a Panasonic CE series on Digikey or Mouser. Of course, as I said, this would be a mid-1980 part. Can someone tell me what this is, and what I should replace it with? I don't understand the circuit, but it involves a transformer and it oscillates in an audible whine that increases in freqency as the main strobe capacitor charges up. This capacitor is just involved somehow in making it oscillate.Thanks for any info.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2020, 02:52:28 pm
content: Any modern capacitor that is the same value, same voltage ( or the next higher one of 25V) and which is 105C rated, and which will likely be the same or slightly smaller size will do there, not a critical capacitor at all so long as ESR is low. Brand wise pretty much anything will work, though for longest life a brand like Nippon Chemicon , Nichicon or even Samwah will do as they will fail from other causes, likely seals just rotting away, only after a decade or three. Just stay away from the cheapest models, and in most cases the price for a single capacitor will be less than the shipping cost by a lot, so avoid the Ali and fleabay ones, as they are either cheap, suspect or out and out fakes.
Panasonic DMR-XW350 dead - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Bsas3
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 04, 2024, 12:59:43 am
content: Hi all,Thank you for allowing me to be a part of your community. I am working on a Panasonic DVR which is dead. I want to remove the main board to access the back of the components, however, the boards are interconnected with solid wire connectors, rather than ribbon cable. I cant see any way to disconnect them & I don't want to break them. You can see them in the picture. If anyone knows how they come apart, I would be forever grateful. Thank you in advance for your support & knowledge.John (Bsas3)

author: Zipdox
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2024, 09:07:56 am
content: Page 47 of theservice manualsays they are connectors and can be disconnected.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2024, 10:04:53 am
content: I have unplugged that type of connector between PSU board and main board on Panasonic DVD recorders. You should be able to pull up part of the ends on the green PCB. The other ends remain soldered to the brown PCB but the wires will easily bend enough to remove the other one.
Panasonic Hi-Fi SA-AKX50 Fault Capacitors replaced still the same - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Hiixmanone
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 06:40:57 am
content: Hi Guys I was wondering if someone can help me out.My Panasonic Hi - Fi SA-AKX50 broke down for no reason So i decided to took it apart and have a look inside have a check on the board.I' ve noticed one capacitor blew up 220uf 50V and one smaller is about to do the same (22uf 50V).Yesterday I replace 4 capacitors 2x 220uf 50V and 2 small with 22uf but 100V.Then I put whole system together and after turning on the blue ring light comes on for few seconds about 3s you can hear fan start going and then is off again so nothing changed .Will be thankful for few advices.My question1. Could I make a wrong soldering capacitors into a board ?2. Could blown up capacitor damage boar so is useless now ?Thanks for any response off course according to the subject::...Peace::....

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 10:02:57 am
content: When a device stops working entirely (and a bad capacitor is found) the bad cap is normally responsible for blowing some other stuff up. Most things will work with some bad capacitor, just not very well. (audio noise, crashing, unstable operation etc.).If the caps are part of a switchmode powersupply then the next thing to check is the switching fet/transistor and diode. They will normally be in the same general location as the capacitor .

author: amspire
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2012, 11:56:20 am
content: If one capacitor had exploded and a second one was about to go, then it could be a sign of overvoltage. If so, then you have to worry about what else is connected to the same capacitors.If it helps, here is the service manual:http://www.electronica-pt.com/images/fbfiles/files/MS_SC_AKX50LB_K_1_.pdfA quick look and it looks like there are two switching supply circuits so I guess one is for standby power and the other is the main supply for the amplifier. If there is a fault, it could be in either supply, or something could be dragging down a supply forcing the micro to shut everything down.Or some other random problem that again results in the micro deciding to shut down.If you get stuck, nothing beats posting up a circuit with measured voltages on a whole lot of nodes, if that is possible. Definitely try and capture the voltage on all the major power rails before the system does shut down.Richard.
Panel LED low current drive - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rakeshm55
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2018, 03:42:12 pm
content: Is there simple circuit/chipsets for driving panel LEDs(Low current)??It should have on off control...Primary aim is to provide consistent illumination for panel mount LEDs

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2018, 04:03:42 pm
content: Typically one just uses a resistor. You can get ICs for driving low current LEDs, they are essentially active resistors, I don't recall the part number but it should be easy to find.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2018, 05:39:28 pm
content: What voltage what current, we need more specifics.I myself use for some 36V led panels with 200-300mA a LM317 as current regulator but on the low side.That way he only gets 2 or 3V relative to ground.

author: rakeshm55
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2018, 05:38:33 am
content: 5mA to 40mA current panel mount indicator LEDs

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2018, 08:02:00 am
content: Quote from: rakeshm55 on July 27, 2018, 05:38:33 amIn that case:-resistorOR- LM317, the cheap to220 version sufficesIn both cases bring the voltage down to about 2-3V more than the Led Vf to minimize the powerloss.To achieve that use a switch mode voltage regulator such as the cheap ones on Ebay.On/off control could be a small P-fet switching the voltage to the resistor or lm317.
Panel mount gauge enclosure - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: matkar
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 02:30:36 pm
content: I'd like to make my own panel indicator - gauge.I'm trying to find a source for the enclosure only (glass, front bezel, shell). Something likehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/2-52mm-Electrical-Oil-Pressure-Temperature-Volt-Fuel-Gauge-Black-Chrome-/191303474761?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c8a935e49&vxp=mtrwithout the scale and needle.Standard electronic enclosure producers don't offer anything similar. Does anybody know a source?

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 02:43:14 pm
content: when you say without the needle what do you mean? do you wish to fit your own movement, or just your own scale and pointer?In reality i would think you would pick generic resistance gauges and drive them by varying the voltage into them, at least for the VDO gauges it is easy to open the bezel, twist off the pointer and place a sticker over the dial, and boom custom dial,At my work we have the parts to make up maybe 2, as just the shell lens and bezel floating as spare parts, for any more than that we would need to cannibalize a working gauge,

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 02:46:14 pm
content: Probably the only thing you'll find are panel mount DIN enclosures like thishttp://www.altinkaya.eu/11-din-panel-enclosures

author: matkar
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 02:53:49 pm
content: I mean without the internals as well. My intention is to mount a 7 segment display or LCD inside.I'm searching for a supplier where I can get multiple pieces, maybe even different models and sizes. Tearing apart some finished product is not an option.I prefer round shape.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2014, 03:42:51 pm
content: Quote from: matkar on September 12, 2014, 02:53:49 pmThat, or making something custom, or maybe finding an existing plumbing/mechanical fitting are probably your only options.
Panel mount potentiometer with a notch on it- how do I panel mount it - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Skippy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2012, 06:04:54 pm
content: I've bought a pot from eBay which is meant to be panel mount. I've also bought a box. I've drilled a hole around the right size, but the pot has a raised notch on one side. What am I supposed to do with it? Am I supposed to cut out a hole, and if so how? I guess it's to stop the pot spinning over time when the knob is turned.E.g. this one, see the raised notch on the left.http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/displayProduct.jsp?sku=1760792&CMP=e-2072-00001000&gross_price=true&{copy:mckv}|pcrid|14164337469|kword|{keyword}|match|{matchtype}|plid|{placement}

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2012, 06:25:44 pm
content: Use the template in the datasheet and a drill bit of the right size....... Or cut it off and have it spin in the box when the nut comes loose or somebody tries to wind it to 11.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2012, 06:32:00 pm
content: Get a file. File out a notch in the box with the file.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2012, 06:44:47 pm
content: The quick and dirty solution: if the box is a plastic one, heat up the metal notch with your soldering iron and press the pot into the plastic (and through the hole of course :-).

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2012, 07:47:11 pm
content: Fastest and Cleanest : Use a plier and twist it out

author: krivx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2012, 07:57:04 pm
content: I've cut off the tab in the past. As long as you use a locking washer and tighten things sensibly you don't need to worry about it spinning around.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2012, 08:33:25 pm
content: Cut off the tab, assemble the whole unit, fill the case with potting epoxy. GuaranteedNOTHINGwill move

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2012, 08:48:00 pm
content: Rub some black felt tip or chalk onto the pin and then push the pot into its mounting hole from the outside this will leave a mark as to where you need to put your hole or notch.Surest way to get the right position.

author: notsob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2012, 09:42:11 pm
content: If you don't want a hole showing thru the panel, mark the location for the tab and partially drill into the panel (ie don't drill all the way through), then trim (shorten) the tab to fit.
Panel Receptacles - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: codingwithethanol
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2019, 01:16:18 pm
content: Ive been on a shopping spree lately and I purchased a few of the mini meters and thumbwheel switches shown in the pictures. When using things like this in a project, my first idea is simply to cut openings in a project box with a dremel to mount them. However, they appear to be designed to fit into some sort of latching receptacle, and i'd like to know if there's a standard for this sort of thing (like dupont or 4mm jacks)

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2019, 01:27:25 pm
content: I do not know if there is a standard.They are designed to push fit and hold themself in place without additional nuts and bolts.The plastic latches are there to hold them in place.A screwdriver can be used to depress the latches if you need to take them out again.

author: SparkyFX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2019, 02:35:15 pm
content: The thumbwheel switches in the first picture need the endcaps to be held in place, they have some locking pins to hold on each other.The panel meter has the mentioned latches.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2019, 07:24:34 pm
content: The standard 1/4 DIN cutout or opening is popular for industrial instrumentation and controllers, and 1/32 DIN for digital panel meters from china (I think).It's basically hell to cut one. I use a nibbler or there are specialized punches (Alfra) that I dream of buying but they are very expensive. The thumbwheel cutout looks like a custom size.

author: KMoffett
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2019, 11:17:08 am
content: Sometimes when I run into a situation like that with panel mounted stuff...hot melt glue is the answer. It holds parts in place, and can be cut out if you need to remove the part.Ken
Panel Switch Wont Release - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: chrisjs
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 19, 2024, 12:36:03 pm
content: Hi all.I guess I am more of an "aged returner" than a complete newbie but any skills / knowledge I might once have had are very rusty so I hope its appropriate to post in here.I am trying to repair an old piece of equipment but the simple pcb is physically mounted to the front panel entirely by the push button switches and I just cant get one of them to release; I am hesitating to apply more force (or desolder the whole thing) for fear of doing harm. The switch in question is circled in red in the attached picture - its branded "Arcolectric", which is now part of Bulgin - but I cant find anything very similar to it online. Searching more generally on panel switches, I have learnt that several brands of push button panel switch have a demountable button that needs releasing from the switch body for insertion / removal (e.g. Siemans), but I cant see how my switch might be released.There is a part of the body that sticks out rather oddly (circled in orange) but gentle pulling and prodding hasnt helped.The panel retaining nut is free and the button shroud rotates freely so I believe that the button is mushroom shaped and intended not to pass through the panel, hence my deduction that the switch must separate - somehowI am hoping that somebody here has used something similar and can point me in the right direction.Many thanks.

author: donlisms
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2024, 02:47:00 am
content: I'm a little nervous! You've circled a snap latch on the switch body in orange, which is not where you want to undo things. I think this switch will just fall through the hole when you find a way to get the button off from the front. The whole shaft and threads and everything should all come through together, but... button won't fit through hole!

author: chrisjs
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 20, 2024, 09:16:50 am
content: Thanks for the input - I was a little nervous too and also felt I was in danger of forcing the wrong piece.But I couldn't see how to get that mushroom shaped button off from the front except by "pulling harder" on the button shroud. So that's what I just did AND IT CAME OFFReally appreciate the encouragement and advice. Now I can map the circuit and try to find out what the real problems are.

author: donlisms
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2024, 06:25:52 pm
content: That's pretty terrific! Onward and upward.
panelizing boards - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Boschi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2018, 09:05:44 pm
content: i have some small boards that i would like to panelize into a single PCB.so far i have foundhttps://hackaday.com/2017/06/21/panelizing-boards-the-easy-way/this, but it crashes pretty frequently and i dont get how it should work.(pro tip! it accepts directly a folder with the files in it, not a zip. or i have misunderstood how it work)has anyone used this program or something else that gets the job done?im trying to do so because for 2oz board they charge you by the panel, not by board sizethanks for your help!
Paper Shredder ir paper detector  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: spike1947
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2020, 07:52:40 am
content: HiI have a Paper Shredder that ir sensor is not working, changed Caps still no luck, so have given up on that part, the Shredder itself has hardly had much use, the motor works fine ( in reverse ) .What I am wanting to do is make a small ir proximity paper detector to operate the 24v relay on the main board and disable the original part of the circuit on the main board, there is plenty of room within the Shredder to put another small board in .Will attach a schematic of the shredder I made just for info as I will not be using that board for the detecting of a sheet of paper.So really I am trying to find a schematic for such a project ( I don't like stuff going to the the tip ) is there anyone that can give me the info for me to make a schematic for such a thing ! .CheersSpike

author: Digorion
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2020, 06:48:06 pm
content: I'm not clearly understand why do you trying to do external circuit instead of repairing already built-in. Also, i'm not shure if the schematics drawn correctly. But do you already checked the photosensor, relay, IR-LED and transistor are in tact (with desoldering it from pcb)? IR Led you can check by the camera of your phone.Is the photosensor does any reaction to the IR radiation from the IR-LED?According to you drawings, i assume, that they using voltage divider (quenching resistor) to get 24V for relay. Is the 24v (or about) present on the transistor (be extremly careful during the measuring, device has no isolation from the mains!)?Also, why did you change the capasitors?If you still want to build external circuit, google "photoresistor / photodiode switch schematics" or so. This schematics is pretty simple.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2020, 07:23:26 pm
content: Is this the 4th or 5th site to which you have posted the same question? What's wrong with the solutions that have been given? Do you expect anyone to look at your PCB pictures and tell you the exact component(s) that is/are defective?On one site, a responder gave you a 555-based circuit. Your reaction,"That's exactly what I need." Well, what's wrong with it?I second repair versus re-design.

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2020, 08:35:47 pm
content: Did you change C3? That is part of a capacitive dropper which will be using a Class X capacitor, and they lose capacitance over time due to their self healing mechanism, which often causes odd failure symptoms like relays buzzing.

author: lunacyworks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2022, 03:25:48 am
content: Do you have a picture of the original board? I have the 12page version of the amazon basic unit with a similar problem. Like you I would like to repair it, however it would be interesting to design a better control board. One that gives you control over the speed, torque while monitoring the heat load. These can typically run continuously if cooled correctly.
Papilio FPGA-Baby steps - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: djsb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2012, 01:11:53 pm
content: Anyone used the Papilio FPGA board? Are there any VERY BASIC tutorials out there on how to start using it? Would anyone consider doing a getting started guide (video or blog etc)? I won't be buying one until the Papilio Pro comes out in a few monthshttp://www.gadgetfactory.net/gadgetforum/index.php?topic=409.30I dont want to use the retroCade synth mentioned.http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/13588168/retrocade-synth-one-chiptune-board-to-rule-them-alI just want to learn the basics (flashing LED's, responding to switch inputs, serial comms etc) to start with.Anyone know of any such resources?Thanks.David.

author: papo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2012, 09:50:22 pm
content: Hello DavidYou might find the web sitehttp://www.fpga4fun.com/interesting. In my opinion, the information there are rather scarce but it is quite hard to give a good introduction without referring to a book. My introductory book to FPGAs was "FPGA Prototyping By Verilog Examples" by Chu et al. Both of these are not specific to the board you mentioned but you may want to check them out nonetheless.RegardsMatt

author: TerminalJack505
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2012, 08:19:07 am
content: I'm guessing you probably want to 'keep things simple' and treat the Papilio board like people treat Arduinos. However, since you don't even have a board yet and won't for a couple of months, you can use that time and prepare yourself by getting a digital electronics textbook and watchingthislecture series. This will cover the necessary digital electronic fundamentals.Then I suggest you get a textbook that covers VHDL and learn it (or Verilog.)Here'sa free VHDL book.Once you've done this you'll be able to use the Papilio (or any FPGA board) much more effectively. You'll be able to do much more than just 'hack out' something or 'engineer' something via cut-and-paste. You'll actually understand what you are doing, unlike, I suspect, much of the other people that buy one of these boards.
Papilio Pro and LogicStart MegaWing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: djsb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2014, 09:00:35 am
content: This is a follow on from my last post on this subject some time ago.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/papilio-fpga-baby-steps/msg131474/#msg131474Now that the Papilio Pro is now widely available I thought I'd buy one together with a LogicStart MegaWing from Seeed Studiohttp://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/Papilio-Pro-p-1301.html?cPath=6_10andhttp://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/LogicStart-MegaWing-p-1636.html?cPath=6_10I'll be using this free E book from Mike Fieldhttp://forum.gadgetfactory.net/index.php?/page/articles.html/_/papilio/logicstart-megawing/intro-to-spartan-fpga-ebook-r34I'll let you know how I get on.David.
Parallel and Series Resistor problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: BlownUpCapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2023, 06:50:29 am
content: I recently took a practice quiz on simple voltage dividers and resistor theories, and I stumbled upon a question that stumped me.All resistors are the same value, say all are 1k ohms.I tried using the usual method of simplifying it down by simplifying obvious series and parallel resistors, but that didn't really work...I tried putting R1, R2, and R3 in series to get 3k ohms, but I can't do that as R4 and R5 are between R1 and R2, and R2 and R3 respectively.Maybe R1, and R2 in series for 2k, then R4 in parallel to get 666.66 ohms, but R5 is between R1 and R2.So then I realized I couldn't simplify it more. But I still had the problem of not being able to figure it out, so I just used Falstad, and absolutely no current flows through R2. Even if R2 is open or shorted, the current flowing from VCC to GND remains the same. The total resistance is also always 1k ohms from VCC to GND.I really do not understand why this is true, and I'd really like to know why this is. I don't want to just skip ahead and say, "So that's just the way it is". I want to truly understand why this happens.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2023, 07:08:10 am
content: Try using the Y-Δ transform:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Y-%CE%94_transform

author: JohanH
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2023, 07:15:24 am
content: Just redraw it a little and it becomes obvious.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2023, 07:27:23 am
content: This is a very common question. And the key part to not having to do any complicated transforms is that all values are the same, so V(R2) ends up being 0 V and it can be excluded from the calculations.For a generic case, you will still need Y-D transform.

author: BlownUpCapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2023, 11:53:28 pm
content: Quote from: JohanH on November 27, 2023, 07:15:24 amThank you very much! I see it now.The voltage potentials to ground nodes between R5 & R1, and R4 & R3 are the same so no voltage potential between the two nodes! So it won't matter the resistance of R2.Did I get it right?

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2023, 11:59:40 pm
content: This is correct for equal values.Still, lean the delta-wye transforms, just in case someone actually does the non-trivial version of this circuit.

author: calzap
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2023, 09:42:37 pm
content: This is the classic Wheatstone bridge configuration. It disillusions beginners who have come to think summing resistances in series and summing reciprocals in parallel can solve any circuit. Excellent problem to illustrate use of Thevenin’s theorem. A link is below. But search “bridge problem Thevenin” on Google or youtube for lots of info.Mikehttps://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/476615/thevenin-equivalence-of-wheatstone-bridge-load
Parallel  Battery Current? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: peps1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2015, 10:07:42 am
content: If I have 2 batteries in parallel what happens regards the Amp ratting?For this question im talking about LiMn 18650 batteriesCapacity: 3100mahMax discharge current: 20AQuick charge current: 3000mA (1C)Quick discharge current: 2000mACycle life: 300 timesCharge cut-off voltage: 4.2V ± 0.5VCharge cut-off current: 5ADischarge cut-off voltage: 3.0VDischarge temperature range:-10°C—60°CIs there a back of the envelope calculation?

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2015, 10:28:25 am
content: It will nominally double the capacity (mAh) and the maximum discharge current. However to double the discharge current in practice you would need to ensure there is an equal current draw from both batteries.

author: JesusCB
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2015, 02:09:58 pm
content: batteries in series -> You add the voltage ( make sure that all the batteries have the same mAh)batteries in parallel -> you add the current (make sure all the batteries have the same voltage )

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2015, 02:25:23 pm
content: + whenever you connect batteries or individual cells in series or parallel, they should be the same make, type, and charging history. Otherwise one weak cell can cause premature failure either by discharging the good cells(s) in a parallel circuit, or by becoming over-discharged and leaking or rupturing (or even worse) in a series circuit.

author: PeterFW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2015, 02:35:26 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on April 10, 2015, 02:25:23 pmLithium cells in parallel can be a bit tricky, without the proper knowlege i would suggest against wiring up lithium cells in parallel.Even if the 18650 are protected cells, a series configuration on the other hand is fine as long as you use either protected cells or a proper battery protection circuit.If you want the cells to be replaceable (swapping them out when they run flat) it is a tremendously terrible idea to wire them in parallel