hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Problem with Logitech z313 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Jake_svk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 21, 2018, 05:25:57 pm
content: Hey guys, having trouble with my 2.1 speakers and I was wondering you could help me. Basically my speakers works fine on low volume,but when I turn the volume up ( doesn't have to be all the way) , it starts to make stuttering noise. For better understanding of the problem I opened up speakers hooked up my scope to input and output of the operational amplifier sta540. Yellow channel is an input, blue channel output. Do you have any suggestions if that amplifier is bad or is it something else. Thank you for your advice. I posted a video of the problem down belowhttps://youtu.be/sJZ2CDwczx0Sent from my WAS-LX1 using Tapatalk

author: cvanc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2018, 06:19:13 pm
content: Here's a datasheet for your amp chip, it should helphttps://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/STA540.pdfIs your system 2 satellite speakers & one subwoofer, all powered by a single STA540? If so, take a look at Figure 6 "Stereo Plus Bridge Drive" for a typical 3 channel configuration, where the woofer uses 2 amp channels to get more power than the satellites. Your circuit may be very similar to this.Could be going into protection (a load or heat problem), could be "motorboating" due to failing capacitors on the power lines, could be your power supply is collapsing when it sees a heavier load, could be lots of things. But the datasheet is a start. Good luck with your fix.

author: Jake_svk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 21, 2018, 06:35:08 pm
content: Yes it is two sattelite speakers and subwofer. I though so too, it is the power supply fault so I replaced it with even more powerful. It didn't help. There are two pre amplifiers which can cause problems as well so I probably start to replaced them one by on. Thanks for the advice with that datasheet. I Will check it outSent from my WAS-LX1 using Tapatalk
Valhalla 2703 AC Calibrator Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2018, 01:06:43 am
content: Hi All, I thought I would post my small repair series for the Valhalla 2703 (the 2705 is similar), in case anyone is interested.Part 1:Part 2:Part 3:
Anritsu MS2711D Spectrum Analyzer LCD - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: calin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 04:38:48 pm
content: I need a bit of help finding a part number. I have an offer to pick up (paid of course) an Anritsu MS2711D with a dinged(broken) LCD for an decent price. All I could find so far regarding the LCD is that it is a 640x480 LCD part number 3-15-123. I really suspect that the thing is a standard LCD that is just hugely marked up/overpriced by Anritsu.I found one here (https://configure.us.anritsu.com/catalog/i/3-15-123) but 450$ !!! Damn !!So I wonder, does anyone have the part number? and I mean manufacturer part number not the Anritsu part #. I am almost 100% there is a compatible replacement out there which is 50-100$

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 05:30:47 pm
content: Just look at the LCD which is inside to see which part number it has. I agree you should be able to find a replace but it may take some tinkering to get the signals right and the inverter may not be compatible if you get one from a different brand. There are LED backlight conversion kits on Ebay for CCFL backlights though.

author: metrologist
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2017, 05:57:21 pm
content: That is not a cheap display.

author: calin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2017, 05:17:09 am
content: Turns out that I am lucky .. found the part number and a replacement at 105$Happy camper

author: jpg8989
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 14, 2017, 02:36:11 pm
content: share the luck! what was the mfg part # for the 15-123 screen?

author: Armadillo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2017, 02:51:41 pm
content: Don't tell me he swept his backside and disappeared? At least come back with some success photographs to show.Anyway, I discovered that spectrum analyser is my worst equipment, has been lying there collecting dust, hence $ use rate, the most expensive amongst equipment all.

author: luisprata
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2018, 01:16:41 am
content: Does anyone have the latest firmware version? CMCV534.bin ? I'm trying to update the firmware but MST is unable to download the file.
MKS Baratron Type 122B Pressure Sensor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 21, 2018, 06:47:19 am
content: Hi All -This is a bit out in left field, but I'm posting it on the off chance there may be someone here that's familiar with these and/or may have a schematic to aid in troubleshooting one.It's a 100 Torr unit; mid 90s manufacture based on the date codes. Regardless of the pressure applied, the output is around 11.4V (should be 10V at 100T, dropping to zero as it's pumped down into the mT range).I've opened it up and see nothing blatantly amiss, and the capacitive part of the sensor seems to be working - as I pump it down, the capacitance (measured directly on the diaphragm connections with an HP 4262A LCR meter; Baratron circuit boards removed) decreases from ~160pF at -15" Hg to a low of ~57pF at mT pressures. (Granted I have no idea what it's SUPPOSED to be, so this may be off for all I know. The fact that it varies with pressure makes me hopeful that mechanically at least it is ok.)My efforts at online searches have gotten me a manual, but the extent of its information on the circuitry is a block diagram. If anyone has or could point me to a schematic of the circuit, or could offer any troubleshooting tips, I would be most appreciative. When I was at National Semiconductor years and years ago, they pretty much just worked, and if one died we replaced it. I don't have that kind of budget, and would like to try to repair it if possible.Thanks for any input.-Pat
Neutrik Minirator MR-1 REPAIR - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: SoundTech-LG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 05:36:47 pm
content: We have quite a few of these around in our labs. They have re-designed these, and a new model is available at $350So it might be worth figuring out what happened to this one. The complaint was intermittent audio out.Investigating turned up corroded silver plated wires that contact Swiss springs soldered to the PCBA.The plating is so thin that the corrosion/tarnish was all but removed. Light polishing with a pencil eraserremoved what was left. We tinned them. Not sure if that will be much of a permanent fix. Re-assembly yielded NO POWER. Disassembled again, and traced power to the largish 100uH choke that touches the case when assembled. Breaks reliably when the unit is dropped.Thanks for the useful photos from Ciccio's post a few years back...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/neutrik-minirator-pocket-sized-audio-generator-quick-fix-and-teardown/
Meterman 34XR Fails all AC tests but passes all other tests including DC. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: wagnerpa
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 14, 2018, 04:48:48 pm
content: Any suggestions on what may have failed? Have taken in for calibration and meter fails all AC tests (voltage, amps); but the DC, resistance, frequency, capacitance all pass the calibration tests.AC voltage gives an unpredictable reading, always higher than should be - sometimes double.Unable to find circuit drawing - anyone have one available?

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2018, 06:46:32 pm
content: Wavetek/Meterman/Amprobe 34XRI usually find the RMS-to-DC converter IC is dead, like an AD737 or similar. You can look at the PCB for the IC used.Amprobe Service and Supportis really good giving service manuals if you email them a request.

author: wagnerpa
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 24, 2018, 08:47:18 pm
content: Thanks. The 34XR has an ES636 (SOP packaging) RMS to DC converter. Will try to replace with an AD636 (SBCDIP)!Haven't found availability of ES636 or an SOP packaging equivalent.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2018, 09:25:58 pm
content: If you replace the RMS-DC converter, it could have one or two associated trimpots to adjust span and offset.

author: soesante
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 04:17:09 am
content: Hi @wagnerpa,did you manage to fix your meter ?I have almost similar issue with my BM869S.When measuring AC voltage from main outlet, it show OL. but the frequency measuring correctly 50 Hz(I attached the Pic)I think the same RMS - DC problem, anyone have any idea ?
Help to identify capacitor for repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: swellard
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 12:04:32 am
content: Hiya,I have attached a picture of a 330uf tantalum capacitor that I’m trying to identify so I can purchase it in the uk from Farnell or cpc. I was hoping someone could Id the shown capacitor as I can’t find it anywhere.Many thanks in advance

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 12:46:37 am
content: It's a polymer cap. It's Panasonic and it's rated for 2V. So use parametric search and look at datasheets. I found this cap but particularly 330uF does not come with 3 terminals. Should be some other serieshttp://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2059649.pdf?_ga=2.65817065.652161654.1537256060-1354045019.1503601835. Also there is a similar cap from Kemethttps://eu.mouser.com/datasheet/2/212/KEM_T2018_T528-1104104.pdf

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 12:52:44 am
content: You could use this onehttps://uk.farnell.com/kemet/t528w337m2r5ate009/cap-330-f-2-5v-20/dp/2442680?st=T528W337M2R5ATE009

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 01:00:51 am
content: This is cheaper and likely the same that Louis sells but has 5 MOQhttps://uk.farnell.com/panasonic-electronic-components/eeflt0d331r/cap-330-f-2v-20-2917/dp/2358340?st=EEFLT0D331R

author: swellard
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 02:14:28 am
content: Can't thank you enough. I need my MacBook for a recording on Friday and you've just saved my bacon!
Repairing a 4 pin touchscreen flat cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Gabri74
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 11:48:18 am
content: So... after being in storage for several months, when I took out an old board for some testing I fund that the 4 pinflat cable that connects the display touchscreen to the board connector has broken (see attached image).Are there any tips/best practices in those cases?Can I gently scrape some plastic and try to expose the contacts?Can I solder the exposed track to give them some thickness like in the original cable ending?What temperature can a cable like this withstand? Have no idea...Any help would be really appreciated :-)

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 11:57:47 am
content: The stuff is often the same as a really thin PCB so it can handle soldering just fine.But you should splice the cable together rather that shoving a scrapped off end into the connector since that might not give you a long term reliable connection.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 12:14:34 pm
content: The original cable probably has something glued on to make it a bit stronger and thicker, peel it off.Use a sharp knife or razor blade to expose the contacts.Glue the support back on the cableEnjoy.At least that is what I succeeded to do in a similar case.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 12:17:48 am
content: Looks like kapton, judging by the colour. Should withstand soldering temperatures fine.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 02:10:34 am
content: Very delicately scrape off top layer to reveal the traces ... if not you'll have to change the touch screen glass ... if you try to solder it, you'll have to be very fast, it will deform the kapton to a certain degree ... tried that a few times for an temporary working solutionThe touchscreen are sometime more cheaper than trying to repair it on Ebay.
Garmin Data Card Socket - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: @rt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 04:06:58 pm
content: Hi Guys,This is with regard to an older Garmin StreetPilot III GPS I’d like to get working.It doesn’t recognise it’s data card unless I apply some force from the end of the data card (more like a cartridge).Socket:Data Card:The card itself goes fine in another unit without having to push it in constantly.There are a couple of screws that would look to provide some strain relief for the header connection from the socket to the PCB.I’m up for guesses about this one. I haven’t opened the unit yet. This card and socket is the same, but from a scrapped identical unit.If it’s dry joints, it would have to be on the PCB female header.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 08:36:39 pm
content: They seem to be 0.1" or 2.54 mm spacing dual row connectorvery commonMeasure the center of the pins to be sure .. you could substitute them with an 90 degree connector
Clarke Hess Model 828 Calibrator search for documents - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Detzi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2018, 06:41:04 pm
content: Hello there,i have laied hands on a broken Model 828 Calibratorwhich only gives around half the output it is supposed to. I openend the device and there is nothing obviously broken. To make things easier, it would be nice to have schematics and or a service manual. I already E-Mailed them but got no response. If you have acces to such documents, i would be very pleased if you could share them with me.

author: Leighcrx
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 03:34:25 pm
content: Good findTry searching for RFL 828M (RFL made them before Clarke Hess). I do have a copy of manuel but need to work out attaching it (too big, and this is my first post!!!) and cant remember where I found it on the web. Mine had the ramp up knob smashed into theswitch board behind and transistor on the rear panel with dodgy connection. The manuel I have gives theory of operation and some basice waveforms to check, I have not found a full schematic yet.Try:http://exodus.poly.edu/~kurt/manuals/manuals/Other/CLARKE%20HESS%20828%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf

author: Detzi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 03:50:27 pm
content: thank you very much Sir!Having Signals for the Testpoints is great. That will help me very much!A list of used parts spares me the eventual search and can be used as a quick reference.That manual is a hell of a lot better than starting from scratch
Remote control not powering on! Help me please! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: DroneFisherMan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 11:55:54 am
content: Hi All,I am super new to modding and I am in big trouble with my new drone... loli am using bayangtoys X16 GPS drone.I managed to solder the "alfa APA-M04 7 dBi gain RP-SMA directional panel antenna Wi-Fi" on the board, and it was working absolutely fine. Until, I put hot glue on the antenna's solder to make it more solid.Since then , when I power on the remote the red light comes on for a second and beeps then it goes off. I removed the hot glue and still its doing same thing..Have I burnt the Tx?I have checked for any short on the antenna's ground and main wire, there is no short there. I have checked the battery and power, and all looks good.the power does come up but then goes away, if I immediately power it off and power back on, then there is no LED,However, if I pause for 5-10 seconds the intensity of LED is high, and subsequently low if powered on during less intervals.Could anyone help me out please!
TDS544A Tektronix - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: CaptainJinx
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 08, 2018, 01:21:50 pm
content: So I'm starting a new project to learn more and gain experience.. I recovered an old TDS544A in desperate need of some capacitors and cleaning because of them. Many folks have done this before with some success. They are 10v 33uf caps. Is it worth going to 15v since they all seem to have failed or is it just more about the fact that they're electrolytics that haven't been touched in years.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2018, 05:36:51 pm
content: If there is physical space then yes, go ahead and go with higher voltage. IIRC there are a few caps in these scopes that get run beyond the rated voltage of the original parts. I used tantalums on the video trigger board I put in my TDS784 but you do need to be careful, apparently some of the regulators used in some areas of these scopes rely on the ESR of electrolytics to be stable.

author: bdivi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2018, 12:41:54 pm
content: I replaced all electrolytics in my 540A with tantalums with no issues whatsoever. The unit is going strong for many years since.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2018, 06:20:32 pm
content: It usually works, but you can have issues with the ones used as decouling for linear regulators on the board. If in doubt, read the datasheet for the regulator used. The caps in question will be easy to identify as they are in close proximity to regulators.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2018, 07:35:40 pm
content: I strongly recommend to use electrolytics because some parts of the TDS500/600/700 series have been designed to use electrolytics. Tantalums also require the power supply not to ramp up too quick or they blow/short.There are also a few capacitors which have more than 10V across them so using higher voltage electrolytics is a good idea.
Waste not Want not - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jeffreyjames44
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2018, 02:02:36 pm
content: Hello World!Just came across some old Thermo Fisher / Keytek ECAT boards and bays. Much of this stuff is old, and does not work. However, I hate to have it just sit in a landfill. Should someone have the time and energy they may be able to get something out of this stuff collecting dust in our attic. The bays fit below the E103 control unithttps://transientspecialists.com/collections/thermo-fisher-keytek/products/ecat-e103. The ECAT module would slide into it. I have acquired over time a considerable amount of this stuff. Should anyone have any interest, all I need is the cost for shipping and a couple bucks for a box. I have added pictures as an attachment, having trouble to get it in the post.
Hot Air Nozzles and DIP's - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mikkkejickles
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2018, 05:46:26 pm
content: Hey folks,I only just registered but seems like a great forums.I am really getting into electronic repair as a hobby after dabbling in it for years.Here is my question. I acquired an old TF-200 desoldering station, and in my research I noticed that there were no 'nozzles' for long DIP applications, only BGA, and short DIP.i.e It seems hard to find a de-soldering nozzle for say a DIP-64 or DIP-48, even a DIP-28.Is that because it was easier to just use a standard hot-air tip, and so no one ever bothered to make one?Just interested, I'm probably lacking some historical context here :-)Jickles

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2018, 07:22:08 am
content: For dip packages you use an air vacuum de-soldering station, an hot air station is for smt packages, bga, plcc packages, etc....

author: screwbreaker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2018, 08:05:12 am
content: Probably he mean TSOP, SOJ etc.

author: mikkkejickles
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 04:31:02 pm
content: Sorry yes, you are right!

author: MadTux
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 07:42:46 am
content: SMD hot air guns are ususally too weak for serious THT work.If you're careful on not to overheat the board you're working on, an industrial hot air gun works great for that. Used them several times to put larger numbers of SRAM chips onto sockets, so that I could test them outside of the machine, that I was repairing.Use the melting point of solder and the behaviour of flux as an indication of the temperature on the board. If the solder is molten and the flux is smoking heavily, you probably want to reduce the power of the air gun/ increase the distance towards the board.

author: screwbreaker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2018, 08:13:19 am
content: He is not talking about THT.Sorry mikkkejickles, I can't find anything for your station. It is a PACE TF-200 isn't it?There is something for other stations, here one for SOJ-40, and probably there is something also for bigger packages.https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/htn-sj40/hot-air-nozzles/thermaltronics/Maybe you can ask directly to PACE, they have a very good customer service.
Weird SMD resistor marking - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Fuzzles
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 16, 2018, 07:15:38 pm
content: Hi everyone !I am currently repairing an inspection machine (Rothenberger Modul Pipe 25/16https://www.rothenberger-russia.ru/f/iblock/f18/roscope_2000_modul_pipe_25_16_komp_schema.pdf)A crack in the plastic case let some water get inside so the PCB was completely oxydated.I cleaned up everything but it seems that one resistor was damaged : a big 2512 SMD package between the power input terminal and the main voltage regulator.I removed it and replaced it by a short-circuit just to test and the device is working fine.This is a temporary fix, I would like to replace the resistor but it is weirdly marked "751C" on both sides. Never seen that before...I thought it could be a "7510" but 751 Ohm is not really a common value ... and I don't even know what is the purpose of this resistor right after the input power connector. It does not seems to be a current sense. The Ohmmeter give me 10 Ohm in both direction.Anybody have an idea about the purpose or the right value of this resistor (or maybe it's not a resistor) ?(I have attached a picture of the component)Thanks guys.

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2018, 07:18:50 pm
content: Pretty sure its a fuse.

author: perieanuo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2018, 08:03:40 pm
content: yep, fuse. see littelfuse examples. it's an rearmable ptc fuse, easy to find specs.Envoyé de mon HUAWEI NXT-L29 en utilisant Tapatalk

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2018, 08:11:48 pm
content: Quote

author: Fuzzles
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 16, 2018, 08:23:59 pm
content: Quote from: perieanuo on September 16, 2018, 08:03:40 pmThat was finally so simple! Just after my message was posted, I thought "This really sound like a fuse !" but I never saw ones with this package.Anyway thank you guys !Great to see that the forum is always very reactive and helpfull.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2018, 08:54:55 pm
content: 751 on a resistor (with no suffix) would be 750R75x10W1- quite common to have codes like this, basically the same as the colour codes on TH resistors
Jaycar TS-1574   Digital Station  Has No Temperature Readout  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: cz1234
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 13, 2018, 05:32:13 am
content: I have a Jaycar TS-1574 Digital soldering stationHas been working until todaythe soldering soldering side of the temp readout lights up but is blankThe reworking side works fine stillNothing except the light is showing on the soldering side of the display window. Soldering iron does not heat upIs this an easy fix or time to buy a new soldering stationPic is with no iron attached but it makes no difference if iron attached or not to the display window

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2018, 02:36:23 pm
content: made by zhongdi (ZD912)http://www.china-zhongdi.com/products.asp?CataID=134&cataupper=&k=&Page=3check the soldering on the board and maybe change small electrolytics.afaik spare boards are available.

author: saabman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 18, 2018, 04:59:56 am
content: Check the two electros at the top of the pc board E1 330uf 25v E4 100uf 25v. and also the 5v regulator labeled VOL in the top left of the pc board.

author: Electronika
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 17, 2018, 04:09:27 am
content: Hi. will you have the station's firmware?

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2018, 08:41:47 am
content: https://allegro.pl/plytka-sterownik-z-lcd-do-stacji-zd-912-zd-915-i6285704079.html$13electronically iron/desoldering gun/hotair appear to be the same, but I suspect different firmware, because they label them separately
Searching for a specific rotary dip switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sixtimesseven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 12:29:14 pm
content: I'm trying to replace a rotary dip switch (16pos) from an Ikelite underwaterhousing.The knob on the switch connects directly with a knob which goes trough the housing. So the design should be fairly similar...I searched the digikey catalog but couldn't find an exact match.Thank you!

author: t1d
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2018, 04:42:58 am
content: Well, you have not told us your level of electronics knowledge, skill, equipment, etc. But, assuming that you have the basics...You might possibly find a part number, somewhere on the switch... On the sides... Maybe, even the bottom... A part can, often, be identified, from a google search, of the number.The switch is surrounded by through-hole parts. It might be easier to remove those, to get a look at the sides, than removing the switch.If you don't find a number on the sides, you may have to remove the switch. This will require some desoldering skills. You can get those from YouTube. You need to have good skills and equipment, to desolder, as it is very easy to tear off a soldering pad.Search for a service manual ( not the operators manual) for the device. Call the company, ask to speak with a repair tech (not customer service, though they may be helpful, too.) I have had companies send me repair parts, for free.If you are in a go-for-broke situation, there would be no loss in starting by removing the switch. If you are ready to do that, take pictures of the pin-side of the switch and post them. We'll try to give you pointers.Look on Ebay, for someone parting out the same device.

author: hli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2018, 09:41:02 am
content: Something like this one:https://www.reichelt.com/de/en/rotary-encoder-switch-16-way-with-vertical-axis-kmr-16-p9434.html? There are probably others, watch out for the correct positioning of the pins.
Parting out HP8568B - anyone need anything? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 06:41:21 am
content: I have one HP8568B that is beyond reasonable to try to repair. So I'm going to part it out. I have everything I need out. So I'm going to offer it to my friends at EEVBLOG. Whatever you need, price is $10 + shipping. You can ask for up to 5 pieces for this price. 6th pieces will raise it to $20 and same price for up to 10 pieces. An entire board counts as ONE. If you ask for 2 capacitors from that board, that is TWO. So keep that in mind. The idea is to SHARE, so please keep that in mind. I think 90% of the unit is still there, so pretty good chance I have what you want. I'll be happy to send you a top panel, but you will pay for quite a bit for shipping.This box is beyond reasonable to repair. That means there may be a major, minor, multiple, faults. Unless something simple, I am not going to be able to test the part. Visual inspection is all I can do. No warranty or guarantee.I am putting it here as I can't really specify what I'm selling. It's whatever you need and I can find in this piece.I will ship to any place but for our foreign land friends, it probably won't make sense because of shipping. But it's really up to you. I'm probably going to use USPS priority mail, or first class mail. So that will give you an idea for shipping costs.Now, operators are standing by. CALL NOW!

author: rob.manderson
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 12:45:03 pm
content: PM sent, about the CPU card.Rob

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 09:56:29 pm
content: OK, I got the following requests so far:Request for CPU board - this is pending testing. I have one sure BAD one. I am not going to send that. This one, I do need to test. It will take few days due to my schedule. A good one, if I can find one, is earmarked for the requester.Request from NZ - we mutually agreed it is not cost effective.Request for A4A5, A4A6 and A4A7 - from DISPLAY section - this one is on hold. I do have these but I'm not ready to part that out, yet. These boards are earmarked for him when they becomes available.
More memory on a Garmin Gpsmap 62 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: SlashBuster
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 24, 2018, 04:50:47 pm
content: Hi folks,I really my old Garmin handheld, but there is a big problem. The Gpsmap 62 only has 1.7GB of storage and most maps these days are bigger(for my needs).The good news are I found a way to get rid of this problem. They use a simple emmc from Samsung. Part Number: Samsung KMAKG0000M-B998.There is a drop in replacement with more capacity Part Number: Samsung KMCMG0000M-B998I couldn't find it on the internet.Does anybody know, where I can these chips and if I maybe can replace them with a newer version of samsung emmc?A datasheet would really be helpfull.Thank you in advance

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2018, 08:12:44 pm
content: "Old" GPSMap 62 with "only" 1.7GBI still have an old GPSMap 60CS. I'll save you the trouble of looking it up: it has 56 MB of memory. That's 0.054 GB. Good luck with your upgrade.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2018, 03:38:24 am
content: its a 10 year old flash chip, good louck finding oneif its anything like old TomToms you can just solder SD card in place of MMC memory, or even SD card holderhttps://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1739409.html#9422735

author: @rt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2018, 02:01:24 pm
content: Can’t you put an SD card in a Garmin GPSMAP 62... I mean ... straight into it’s micro SD card slot underneath the batteries?http://gpsinformation.info/penrod/62S/backcover.jpgIf your model has no SD card, or maps can’t be stored there, doesn’t the internal flash also contain firmware, so you’d have to at least program the loader part to it?

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2018, 07:57:24 pm
content: Even hacking like the previous posts, have you considered the "OS" can be locked to the 1.7gb limitIs it the 62s or 62stfor 62s:https://forums.garmin.com/forum/into-sports/garmin-connect/the-water-cooler/12210-and a WIKI :https://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Garmin/GPS_series#GPSMAP_62_and_78_series

author: ArthurDent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2018, 11:57:59 pm
content: It may not be what you want to hear but have you considered buying a good used Garmin 64s on Ebay?
SMD Capacitor Value? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Johnny10
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2018, 04:51:27 pm
content: I am doing a repair and I am very confused about the on chip numbering.A capacitor reads 226V 40372Looking up this part I have 22uF 40Volt ( Vishay ) ?But another lookup reference says AVX 22uF 6VoltNot sure which is correct.

author: Johnny10
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2018, 05:16:52 pm
content: OK So I am not always with it !

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2018, 05:24:07 pm
content: Quote from: Johnny10 on September 13, 2018, 05:16:52 pmIt's OK Johnny10, you can still keep your membership here.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2018, 09:09:07 pm
content: To be sure measure the supply voltage(s) ... and choose the right vcc specs

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 11:11:41 am
content: Quote from: coromonadalix on September 13, 2018, 09:09:07 pmThat is a smart decision *BUT* it will not solve the overall problemIt has become an increasingly and dangerously problem to deal with todays"MODERN" part descriptors.OLD SCHOOL parts are responsible marked and chances to make mistakes are smallWhat will prevent a mistaken part being fitted at production as these "MARKS" or codesare absolute obscure and non trivial ?The result of a BAD MLCC just exploding with a 9V bat change.From a DMM, removed the old... inserted the new BAT .. power .. BOOM!I can read like xx06 from what is left but without the proper voltage rating...Only your advice of measuring to be sure. Yes it makes sense - each day more senseI did that to replace that with a proper robust THTSMD has become a dangerous stuff. like this one
Fluke 8842A 5.5-digit meter repair and calibration. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: TiN
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 05:02:33 am
content: Another flukey was saved recently from the dumpster fate.Caveat was dodgy rework job here:And broken voodoo resistor here:Full article with process and troubleshooting steps.Enjoy the read.Pity no GPIB option to capture some stability data...

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 09:45:42 am
content: Having so much trouble with the ADC / amplifier, it might have been easier to swap the display to the parts donor unit.Having a non heated reference is a 2-sided thing when it comes to fast turn on. Even with careful TC compensation it might take some time to stabilize, as it takes time to get the final temperature differences. The heated references LM399 / LTZ1000 usually are rather fast in getting there temperature. It is more the rest of the circuit that takes it's time. Here the added power of the reference may make settling of the parts around the heated reference a little more important.

author: TiN
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 10:27:19 am
content: QuoteI very much doubt it matters in 5.5 digits meter, those effects completely dwarfed by 10ppm resolution of the A/D in here.QuoteBut then we will not have this article and thread, eh? Also my meter have shattered high-voltage divider network, and who knows what other problems.QuoteYep, getting heat to reach equilibrium with everything around them is still hours. Hence I never turn off my 8.5d meters, except for service/relocation. And LTZ can take days to reach <0.5ppm from previous value, if stayed cold for long.
I can't find a thread!  Please help me. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 04:09:41 am
content: There is a thread somewhere like this:I say something like I have a R&S SMIQ 03It's batteries are deadI can't find batteriesMy manuals aren't searchableSomeone else comes in and says he did it not too long ago.I ask if he remembers where they wereI said I think I found them on manualsHe says yup, and post one or two photos with battery showing.I READ THIS THREAD ACCIDENTALLY tonight. I didn't know someone updated it. I then closed a browser.Now, for life of me, I cannot find this thread. I've been searching for few hours now.Can anyone please help me find this? It's here somewhere - either repair section or test instruments section.

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 04:15:48 am
content: Then as soon I post this, I found it.I am so stupid tonight. (well.... all other days too I guess)

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 04:25:22 am
content: Asked MODS to please remove this thread

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 04:34:45 am
content: If you remove this thread then all of us will go nuts trying to find it tomorrow like you experienced.
Handel 1008c - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Irocz89
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 06:55:18 pm
content: Hi to all!Got a problem and need your help! I have a hantek 1008c oscilloscope and the processor has fried! I can replace it but I believe I need the firmware to put back in! Hantek don't seem to be helpful!Can anyone help? Just trying to the firmwareThanks to allSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
DM-441B LG RMS Multimeter 7 segment display trouble - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Bjoern
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2018, 01:39:09 pm
content: I there, I thought this would be an easy fix because from a 4 digit 7 segment LED display a couple of segments flickered or went off occasionally. I had such troubles seen before at a different system and I fixed it with a couple of pull up resistors.However this didnt work here I recon the LED is at fault, I do not have a schematic but since there is only one driver for 4 digits the only way it works is by multiplexing the common VCC with a separate chip. Since the error occours always at the same segment I ruled out the driver.Now this 4 digit 7 segment module is odd, as it has as many connectors as 4 x single 7 segment displays would have hence I havent found a suitable replacement part yet.My questions:- Has anybody experienced such case and could fix it by replacing the display ?- Does anybody know if I could use 4 x single 7 segment instead or would the width be to large hence wouldnt fit- Maybe somebody has a source where I could find such a 4 digit 7 segment modules with all its lege sticking out ?- Anybody has the schematic of this multimeter ?

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2018, 08:30:23 pm
content: Give us some photos, you may have an multiplexed led display 8 pins for the segments (including dp) and minimum 5 pins for the columns, others for the small display texts leds etc ...Link to an possible service manual :https://elektrotanya.com/dm_441b_tisch_multimeter.pdf/download.htmlwait 5 to 10 secs for the download to appearpage 33 : U13 is an 74ls47 ( segment driver) normally used for common anode displays, q4 thru q9 are the anode driver (columns and leds)I Think the pcb is doing the multiplexing job and you have standard leds displays, check for text / markings on their sides ...

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2018, 06:53:29 pm
content: More here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/ez-dm-441b-service-manual/The LED displays are a single digit and two dual-digit to make 4-1/2 digits. Common pinoutItem No. 588-054, 7SEGMENT KD-G5622AMItem No. 588-055, 7SEGMENT KD-G5612AMI replace 'LS47 with 'LS247 because it has the better font, with added tails so 6 vs b and 9 vs g
My Siemens Multimeter B 1028 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ac_dc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2018, 07:53:28 am
content: Hello dear people,I have a Siemens B1028 which is unfortunately defective ... no display, nothing ...The first observations have shown that possibly the power supply or the voltage control are out of action.Unfortunately, I do not have a schematic, so I am currently in the dark.Does anyone know the device or can possibly help me with documents?Many Thanks!

author: ac_dc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2018, 08:04:51 am
content: See Reply #4 the 3rd. Picture fromhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/anyone-ever-used-an-old-siemens-b1022-rms-multimeter/msg529896/#msg529896

author: ac_dc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2018, 08:07:10 am
content: Sorry, the 2nd Picture...

author: ac_dc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2018, 04:21:17 pm
content: Does anyone know the DMM?

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2018, 01:30:41 am
content: Not familiar at all with this meter, but if you have no display, I would trace out the + battery to the main IC. Perhaps there is a datasheet for the main IC?If not, see if the crystal/clock is running.

author: ac_dc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2018, 10:07:10 pm
content: I've looked and the IC is a NORMA MCC2 (more names on the block AMS 9335 WAE ... so I have not found anything on the web). What I still notice is: the current needle of the dispaly on the laboratory power supply fluctuates ... a kind of pumping ( the multimeter is connected to a laboratory power supply ).

author: ac_dc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2018, 03:23:11 pm
content: I now have the actual controller and that is the NEC D75P316GF. I will now check whether the oscillator works, the operating voltage is in order ... for the beginning

author: ac_dc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2018, 08:08:38 am
content: Anyone else with the device maybe?
Stupd interconnect cables on HP8568 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2018, 01:47:20 am
content: I guess I'm venting more than anything else, since I know the cause and the solution....I had a good fortune of gaining 14 (yes, FOURTEEN) HP8568B and 6 HP85662A. Of course, in between the two, there is that *(&% cables.I went through all of RF section and 12 were good. I went through Displays and 3 are excellent. 1 is good, and the last one is hopeless. (so dark, so dim)But the cable is being a big pain in you-know-what. I go through all of those 12 once. Everything is good. Mix it up and go through again to verify, a few fails with Check Instrument 1 error. Most of the time, these were caused by the heavy and bulky BUS cable. Yes, that 100 dollar cable! Look at the male pins and they are all FLAT. Reshape it and sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. The problem is, it isn't consistent. I replaced the cable but the replacement piece is also equally old. Sometime works, sometimes NOT. It's such a pain in a butt situation. Have anyone else experienced this? Only one time, the card inside was actually bad. I transplanted a good one and everything is good - until 4th round of rechecking.I guess this is what it means to nurse back 30+ year old equipment. Stuipd thing fails. (and the stupid thing is slightly propietary!!) I never liked ribbon cables and those compression connectors. They can be quite temperimental.Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!Now I feel slightly better....
Veeco (Optys) Power Supply Schematics - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: bandgap
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2018, 03:29:48 pm
content: Hi all,I'm looking for the schematics for the Veeco 1508 and 2508 power supplies seen here:https://cdn.thomasnet.com/ccp/10042519/69935.pdfI've attached a couple of pictures of internal boards which appear to be manufactured by Optys (which I think is no longer in business.) If anyone knows where I can obtain schematics, I would very much appreciate it.Thanks!Clayton

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2018, 12:46:12 am
content: Very nice puppiesHave you asked :www.veeco.com/mbe? maybe they have an service center ?
TYCO ES760A help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: alah
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2018, 04:22:37 pm
content: Hi, ALL; I got my hands on a power supply. It’s a TYCO Electronics Model ES760A.I applied AC but couldn’t measure any DC; of course the DC LED is OFF:I understand this could be connected to some other hardware but I don’t Know exactly what?Can this work as a standalone unit? Pinout for the back connectors?
HP8568 repair and findings - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2018, 03:55:32 pm
content: I went through a large number of HP8568B, HP8566B, spectrum Analyzers and found few common issues. I'm posting in case someone is having these issues.1) Cables! Bus cable and its connectors are now 30+ years old. That means pins and prongs that rely on bends to apply pressures are now quite tired. IF YOU ARE GETTING INSTR CHECK I, try unscrewing BUS cable at Display section side. Pull lightly and see if there are any pressure. If they pull out very easily, CAREFULLY create an appropriate bend in cable side of finger stocks. Make sure thumb screws are tightened.2) Causes of YTO unlock can be anywhere. YTO itself may be perfectly fine. YTO is the last thing in the chain. Thus, YTO unlock problem can be anywhere. One way to take reference oscillator out of the equation is to use external reference.3) HP used good quality capacitors. There is no need to blindly recap RF sections. Even those big cans in power supplies are likely still good. Out of 12 RF sections I went through recently, number of capacitors I replaced = ZERO. HP8566B and DISPLAY sections are another matter. YTO driver boards and Z axis driver boards tended to have bad capacitors more than 8566s.4) A to B conversions were pretty common? I have a batch of 14 units. About half of them were A upgraded to B. I understand HP offered an upgrade kit for several thousand dollars. That replaced in house CPU to 68000. I guess these were popular back then. A has two batteries, B has one. There is a vacant space around the reference oscillator. (silver can supported by rubber bushings). If you look into that area, on PCB, there are pads labeled "BATTERY". If battery exists there, it's an A, or it's a botched conversion. B doesn't have it there.5) Handles are often CRACKED. Inspect first before lifting! Handle straps may have lose screws and each side is supported by only ONE screw. Be careful.6) Have a Chiropractors and Massage Therapist appointment ready. You'll need them.That's about all I can think of at the moment.

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2018, 05:18:15 pm
content: Yes on a chiropractor appointment. I an renovating my shack in the basement and had to move a HP 8565 spectrum analyzer 2 floors up the stair, i thought i will die right there on the stairs. Good thing is unlikely anyone would want to steal it

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2018, 07:01:03 pm
content: I am glad I live in a house and my floor is concrete. My test gear consist of mostly 1980s stuff. There's no way I'd try this on wood structures.