(Type of) multimeter advice - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: NrN86
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 02:48:17 pm
content: I’m looking to buy a multimeter that will be used for the following use cases:- Check the voltage of circuit breakers in a cabinet in residential installations (1-phase 230V and 3-phase 400V)- Diagnostics for Loxone installations (24V voltage measurements and especially testing voltage drops for 24V lightning)- I also occasionally install small solar panel installations (< 10kW)- Install and start up residential heat pump installations and airco installations (<10kW) (will start a course in November to become a certified refrigeration technician by the end of this year)I’m not sure what type of meter would best suit my needs and was hoping you could share your experiences so I can a make more advised choice.DMM- Brymen BM325 or BM257s- Fluke 115, 116 or 117Clamp meter- Fluke 323 or 325Electrical tester- Fluke T5 or T6 seriesIs there one device that can cover all my needs or would you go for a combo Fluke 116/323.Looking forward to your insights. Not only brand and model recommendations but also advice concerning the type of meter.Thanks a lot!

author: BILLPOD
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 01:50:04 pm
content: Good Morning NrN86, The recommendations you will get, here on the Forum, will approach the number of members on this Forum, so I recommend you go to this site which will provide you with information on most, if not all, of the meters available on the marketplace, in spreadsheet format. Happy huntinghttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/multimeter-spreadsheet/

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 02:22:46 pm
content: personally id go for 3 meters,a good all round multi meter,a separate clamp meter and a simple voltage tester like the fluke T110. 99% of the time the voltage tester will be the one you grab as you just need to prove voltage or if theirs continuity

author: NE666
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 03:59:42 pm
content: To add to the advice above, not only did I purchase a Fluke T110 for jobs like this (other models and brands are available), I got a proving unit to go with it. No point in realising that your voltage detector was defective, as you're being bitten..

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 04:19:12 pm
content: QuoteBack when i was an apprentice one of the biggest causes of failing the final practical exam was not proving the meter,not just before taking a reading,but afterwards also.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 04:44:37 pm
content: Quote from: NrN86 on October 13, 2025, 02:48:17 pmI have this combination and it is pretty good setup for general household and light commercial electrical work. You don't want to be measuring current through your meter anyway in those situations so you need a current clamp. The 116 actually has a very nice feature set but without the current ranges.However, the 116 is a 600V CAT III meter, meaning according to the rules you shouldn't use it outdoors, on certain higher energy service panels or on HVDC solar. I have other meters for that, in my case a Fluke 289 (and 27, 189, etc) but in the EU you may find something like the Brymen 869S to be a good choice for much less money. If your solar systems approach or are over 1kV then you need a special meter for that. One thing to keep in mind is that any situation where the Fluke 116 is inappropriate is probably also a situation where PPE and specific precautions are also required.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 04:54:32 pm
content: Clamp meter. So you can measure current without having to interrupt the connection . No contact, no risk for overloads or popping fuses (or the meter ). clamps are the safest possible. Especially in residential.

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 05:38:40 pm
content: I think the 116/323 combo is a good one. At work I used the 87V/374FC combo. I never have or use the tester.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 06:23:51 pm
content: When testing for dead, DMMs have too many opportunities for error - switch position, lead insertion etc.A proper appropriately Cat rated low-Z voltage tester has robust captive leads (including safety tips) and requires no switch setting, it also gives clear audible and visual indication and still operates even if the battery if the battery is flat or missing. Verified with a proving unit, before and after, as mentioned above is the only truly foolproof part of a safe isolation procedure. A DMM simply won't hack it. It's a relatively economical solution for achieving high Cat rating too.Of course DMMs, and especially clamp meters, have their place for diagnostic work too but ignore a proper safe isolation (ie. tester+proving unit) part of the job at your peril.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2025, 06:40:36 pm
content: Fluke-T5-600