hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Bulk Li-Po Battery Testing? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: bullet308
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 12:40:38 am
content: Hi:I have undertaken a project where I have ended up with a large pile of used 1300mAh Li-Po batteries that need to be evaluated. Any particular ideas on a good procedure for testing them? They have their own little controller board built into each one. I can of course put a charge on them and test the voltage. Anything else? thanks.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 10:55:17 am
content: charge em up in parallel at a slow ish rate, then discharge them with a bunch of LEDs seperately, once they get low enough, the LEDs will turn off to not damage the cells and will give you visual indication, grade them based on time taken for the leds to go out.
Bulk power input caps. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2024, 09:14:21 pm
content: I have a Frankenstein box of audio tricks with too much capacitance for it's own good.It's original power supply was a 1A linear reg and was melted by the in rush current. So I gave it a 3A buck converted instead. That seemed to settle it down.However it is still very susceptible to power anomonlies. Like switching the 240VAC desk fan on. The arc'ing contact in it's dial switch is enough to reset the digital devices behind this buck converter. Even with about 1mF of capacitance distributed across it's board.... 220uF, paralleled with 100n and 100p's peppered across it.It occurred to me that the only thing without an excessive amount of capacitance is the buck converter itself. It has nothing but the 1uF ceramic on the module I used.So... 2 questions.1. Surely slapping a 220uF on the input of that buck converter is going to help.2. More generally. When having a sizable amount of input capacitance how to you stop inrush? I figured... if my device consumes an average of 112mA with little variation, then a series resistor can limit the capacitor charge to 2 or 3 times that. Is there a "quick and dirty" way to achieve that without transistors though? I mean that the capacitor charges via the resistor, but discharges with a bypass..... a diode (voltage drop might be okay I suppose)?

author: xvr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2024, 04:11:51 pm
content: NTC thermistors -https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/electronic-components/resources/technical/eaton-ntc-thermistors-app-note-elx1247-en.pdf

author: Konkedout
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2024, 06:00:22 pm
content: Your situation as you explain does not completely make sense. For example a 240 VAC "desk fan" should draw little current and should not be causing significant power anomalies.Bulk capacitors filter DC and are more likely to cause inrush as fix it.Thermistors can help but you need to have an idea what you are doing. When I contracted for a well known company, we had a large toroidal mains frequency transformer which was tripping the 15A breaker when powered up. This was probably due to residual core flux causing core saturation. We resolved this with an NTC series thermistor, and an AC coil time delay relay which bypassed the thermistor when the VAC output came up.Please post a block diagram of what you have or what you are thinking of doing.
Buried vias under pads/components? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sparkydog
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 06:30:03 pm
content: I've heard in multi-layer boards that it isn't good to have traces on the inside layers without surrounding fill, as this can cause subsequent layers to be uneven ("tent"). I've also heard vias can have some "tenting", and that this can be a concern for via-in-pad.Is this a problem for buried vias? In other words, is it safe to place a buried via (e.g. connecting the inner layers of a 4-layer board) directly underneath a component or pad? Or can this result in the pad being not-flat?
Bus / Line driving - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: banedon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2013, 07:28:48 pm
content: I'm creating a digital circuit to program a parallel 64Kb EEPROM using dip switches (I know: slow. But it's a "can I do it" project) for inputs and 7 segmented displays for ouputs.I'm sort of getting there with the circuit (will post it here for comments), but have run into an issue and have hopefully resolved it myself - but I need to be sure I have.The issue is that I'm trying to drive a Kingbright 4x 7 segmented display using four 74HC4511 7 segment display driver ICs (please - if anyone has a better way of doing this please say).The way I see it, the output from the 74HC4511 is a max of 10mA. Where-as the display can pull up to 25mA.I could limit the current that the display draws to 10mA using resistors, but that might result in a display which is too dim.So... can I use a Buffer/Line driver? I have a74ABT244 in mind as it says it'll sink up to 25mA. Do Buffer/Line drivers work in this fashion? Everything I've read seems to say they do.Data sheets:Kingbright 4x7 Segment display (CC56-11CGKWA) -http://www.kingbrightusa.com/images/catalog/SPEC/CC56-11CGKWA.pdf74HC4511 Driver -http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/308800.pdfOctal Buffer/Line driver -http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/74HC_HCT244.pdfMany thanksMike

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2013, 07:34:40 pm
content: The displays will be quite bright at 10mA, and still readable in normal room light at 5mA. No need to have them run ar 25mA, that is a maximum current, not a current to be aimed for. At 25ma you probably will be blinded looking at them, and will have a lot of light bleed through to off segments. If you look at the data sheet the leds are meant to be driven at 10mA, that is where they are specified at DC. The other ratings are for pulsed operation, where you might only have a single display on for 1% of the time yet need it to appear bright.

author: banedon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2013, 07:43:18 pm
content: Thanks Sean. I'm getting a little confused reading the data sheets regarding DC maximums and limits - atleats for some of them! Although I wasn't going to try 25mA - probably 15mA and then adjust from there.One thing: the datasheet for the 74HC4511 (page 11) seems to indicate that a current limiting resistor should still be used with a common cathode 7 seg unit. Do you stil think this is necessary? It seems not form where I sit.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2013, 07:47:01 pm
content: Yes, it is. Why would you not need it?

author: banedon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2013, 07:58:46 pm
content: I see. The max isn't 10mA for the display and as it's LED it'll try and draw as much as possible. So I need the resistor to limit it to 10mA, yes?
buses - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: karim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 12, 2025, 02:17:36 pm
content: I saw that Intel processors have three buses: one for RAM, one for DMI, and one for the PCIe bus. So, when the processor receives an address, how does it decide which bus to send it to?

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2025, 02:31:08 pm
content: Quote from: karim on August 12, 2025, 02:17:36 pmMemory management includes a table describing which address ranges apply to which buses.

author: Monu
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 12, 2025, 03:33:56 pm
content: Quote from: David Hess on August 12, 2025, 02:31:08 pmHow does the processor handle a memory address request when the requested data isn't in RAM, but rather needs to be fetched from a slower storage device like an SSD?

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2025, 03:57:29 pm
content: Quote from: Monu on August 12, 2025, 03:33:56 pmThen usually the operating system handles it, but the CPU's memory management unit will still be involved if the request is handled as a request to virtual memory.Assuming that the device, or more likely file, is "mapped into memory", this is what happens. The operating system allocates virtual memory through the CPU's memory management unit into visible address space. Accesses to this virtual memory cause a memory fault, which the operating system handles by loading the data from the SSD into physical memory and pointing the virtual memory to it.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2025, 05:28:34 pm
content: Only three? I have not looked at a datasheet, but I find that hard to believe. With multiple cores, parallel memory channels and all the other stuff going on in modern processors, there are bound to be more (sub) busses, and a whole lot of voodoo to manage it all.
Bush tv LT26MC1A with a 715T2907-2 psu - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: vinceroger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2024, 06:15:20 am
content: Hi guys i have a bush lcd tv i was given im struggling with repairing the psu basically the main filter cap has 336v dc but no voltages on the secondary side i have the psu on the bench im not sure if i need to jump any pins too test the secondary voltages can someone look at the schematic and advise me many thanks

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2024, 10:42:01 am
content: What is main filter cap, C920?IC901 pin8 must have Vcc, it's from T901 feedback winding.What IC902 pin2 has?

author: perieanuo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2024, 12:50:28 pm
content: check +5V presence then activate supply by putting some resistor between PS_ON and +5V ()small, like below 100ohm you already have the 10kohm).seems like that higher side psu is outputting the standby voltage.if no +5V, then dig for this standby voltage. you can put some load on +12/+24v outputs or just use the TV boards for thisIC902 is my main suspect, or something around him
"butterfly"-like symbol in block diagram - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Phaseseeker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2022, 11:38:27 am
content: I was looking at this datasheet for a VCR control chip and in the block diagram for the control head amplifier there's multiple places where they use a strange symbol that looks kinda like a butterfly (or the symbol that is used to indicate hydraulic valves), look for example at the RCTLP and RCTLN lines. What is it? I've tried googling but since it's a graphical symbol it's kind of hard to search for it.

author: Wallace Gasiewicz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2022, 11:48:10 am
content: PIN diode switch?

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2022, 11:49:27 am
content: Probably conduction gates (controlled switches), like 4066 and alike.https://www.tme.eu/Document/08e1a93b8bfe5df67dbd91ee771d5ff2/74LVC4066.pdf

author: Phaseseeker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2022, 11:56:23 am
content: QuoteYeah, that would make sense here. That's probably what they are. Thanks!

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2022, 12:01:03 pm
content: Transmission gateshttps://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/combination/transmission-gate.html

author: timenutgoblin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2022, 12:01:52 pm
content: Transmission gate (analogue switch).https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/design/technical-documents/tutorials/4/4243.html

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2022, 03:38:03 pm
content: analog switches- most def.

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2022, 06:15:09 pm
content: Yes, transmission gates, also known as pass gates.https://buzztech.in/cmos-transmission-gate/

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2022, 10:36:40 pm
content: Quote from: Phaseseeker on March 04, 2022, 11:38:27 amThat is an interesting coincidence, since that's exactly what they would do in a water analogy of the circuit.
Button identification? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: makerimages
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2018, 03:35:47 pm
content: Hi all,If you happen to be familiar with lighting consoles, you sure have seen these switches, which most of the controllers use. They look the same - a LED on the top, and a raised piece down below. Pushbuttons. Who makes them and where could I buy these buttons?Picture loaned from PLSN

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2018, 03:42:47 pm
content: Omron B3J or other hinged tact switchAvailable at your friendly electronics distributor

author: boB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2018, 03:49:54 pm
content: The Omron is real close. We used to use these on a product and I "thought" they were Carling switches but I'm not seeing them making these now at least. 25 years ago so brain might have faded.E-Switch might have been it. From Digikey.https://www.e-switch.com/system/asset/product_line/data_sheet/24/5500.pdfAlso this one but maybe harder to get ?http://shanpu.sell.everychina.com/p-97787112/showimage.htmlboB

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2018, 05:03:40 pm
content: The original were German from ITT-Schadow and called "digitast". It seems they've been taken over by C&K.Search for "C&K digitast".
Button input to two microcontrollers isolation needed? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 24602
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2022, 02:48:24 am
content: Hey AllIf I had a single button input going to two microcontrollers (32U4 with internal pull-up) both on different powersupplies. Should a diode be placed between each microcontroller and the button?Thinking if one wasn't powered it would sink current from the other.Good/ bad what you all think?Thanks

author: Kim Christensen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2022, 03:49:56 am
content: QuoteYes that would be a problem.Diodes would work. As long as the diodes' forward voltage drop is low enough that a valid logic state will be present at the MCUs when the button is pushed.You could also use two NPN transistors and drive the bases via a Vdd connected switch and resistors.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2022, 09:30:23 pm
content: Quote from: 24602 on February 17, 2022, 02:48:24 amIt should be easy to keep the two completely isolated with a double pole push button. The other possibility is to use an optical isolator.
Button press to sound playing options? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jebnor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2013, 06:19:02 pm
content: A friend of mine is doing an art project which involves 6-12 buttons, each of which should play a different sound.We know about Arduino with the Wave shield, but were wondering about other options. We are on a tight timeframe, so shipping will need to be quick.Any avenues of research you could point us to would be great.

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2013, 06:26:17 pm
content: A bit more buttons than you needhttp://usa.yamaha.com/products/musical-instruments/keyboards/synthesizers/but I have it on good authority that each plays a different sound.

author: Jebnor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2013, 07:17:09 pm
content: Quote from: Bored@Work on December 23, 2013, 06:26:17 pmMore like different custom sounds.

author: filip_cro
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2013, 07:36:37 pm
content: Filtered PWM.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2013, 08:50:53 am
content: Quote from: Jebnor on December 23, 2013, 06:19:02 pmPrice range?Size range?Is it a school project and thus need to be made by you, not pre-made?What sounds need to be made, is it like a song, or is it just a beep or a chime or something?What kind of buttons?How loud?How long does it have to last?Less vague, kgo!

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2013, 09:40:14 am
content: STM32F401CDISCOVERY Discovery has a DAC (and jack output) and 256 KB program flash, the board costs like 10 euros.

author: Jon86
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2013, 09:54:24 am
content: I think you may find this is a little more complicated than you might expect it to be. If I was you, I'd go with the Arduino and Wave shield and just remove them from their boards, put them onto a little pcb/stripboard and you're done.

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2013, 10:07:31 am
content: 555. nuff said

author: leb120
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2013, 11:34:38 am
content: Need to slap something together quickly without much thought, gata look on sparkfun.Audio-Sound Breakout - WTV020SDhttps://www.sparkfun.com/products/11125Plays sounds off of an SD card.Looks like it has a 5 button mode (each triggers a sound) or you can have up to 512 different sounds triggered with some quick code and a micro.It can even drive 0.5w directly to a speaker such as:Thin Speakerhttps://www.sparkfun.com/products/10722
Buttons all do the wrong thing- ever seen this? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Skippy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 04:16:10 pm
content: I'm trying to fix a CD player/amplifier combo. The problem I've got is that there are a series of buttons on the front, but all of the buttons do the wrong thing. The CD eject button doesn't eject the CD, but the skip track buttons do, and so on.The board the switches are on has several switches, but only 3 wires coming out of it attaching to the main board. and the switches are attached using a series of resistors, so I guess the board works out which button is being pressed by the total resistance on the two wires.I've replaced the board with another one that I know is good in another identical model, but it still has the same problem.Has anyone ever seen anything like this?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 04:18:33 pm
content: seems to be a problem in the unit then that is misinterpreting the button signals. What is the button board connected to ? could be that some parts on the mainboard have failed and it's mis interpreting the buttons, or you can work out the new sequence and try and sort out the buttons - have fun

author: firewalker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 04:37:16 pm
content: I had a similar problem with an LG monitor. It was using a method for many button but a minimum I/O usage. On the button pcb there was couple diodes and resistors. One of the diodes and a resistor was bad and causing similar problem to yours.Alexander.

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 04:38:40 pm
content: If it decodes buttons by reading an analog voltage, you can check the voltage on the ADC's voltage reference.

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 09:00:09 pm
content: Normally a fault like this is the buttons being worn out and having a higher than normal ON resistance. Since you substituted another (known good) board it sounds like you can rule the button board out.Look for dry joints on the main board or perhaps glue that has gone conductive. Perhaps even a leaky capacitor around the key scan inputs of the micro.

author: poptones
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 10:25:38 pm
content: I had a VCR that did this after a nearby lightning strike. It still appeared to "work" it just went insane.

author: Jad.z
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 10:31:29 pm
content: I'd say it's the voltage that is feeding the resistive divider that went off. You might want to check it and compare it with that of a working unit.
Buy Parts from China - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: RissViss
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2017, 10:10:37 pm
content: Hello everyone, I hope this is in the right spot.Having trouble getting parts from china. Looking for someone in Canada that gets the parts they ordered on ebay from a Chinese seller.I have a seller that ships UT multi meters fast and Hantek seller got me a 6022 oscilloscope fast.Things like buck converters a T4 LCR, little and cheap parts, nothing still waiting for these parts to show up 6 months later. Have tried 2 different sellers for small cheap parts.If anyone from Canada has a sell that gets them there parts in a reasonable amount of time, I would love to have there ebay store.This is another thing, do i need to order lets say 50 - 100 US dollars of stuff and get better shipping or does this not matter.Is there a formula to get cheap parts for China, buck converters, T4 LCR, resistors, caps, solder pens, soldering stations, lithium ion/poly battery chargers, and so on from china so that you get it to your door. All things I have ordered are going to a business address. Need to find one good supply of parts and find the magic formula to get parts.Or is the problem ebay and aliexpress is a better solution.Some good advice on this would be great.Hard to make things if you can not get anything your looking for.This and I need a good place to get a Hakko 936 clone, Hobby King wants to charge more then double to ship, then the station costs.And for people that will say order from places like Digi key that would be nice, but way outside my budget.

author: robotic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2017, 10:25:03 pm
content: Yeah, it use to come quicker, I've noticed the past year or two that it has taken ~50days and some even arriving after 150...I'd had a few arrive in 2 weeks, but only like 5% of my orders are like that.I find aliexpress quicker then ebay though. However, I've bought significantly less to get a proper sample.The problem is customs I think. So no real solution other then paying for shipping.For the iron, I would just invest in a good one, it is something you will use for life pretty much. I bought a hakko 888d for $100. Well worth it. I had a crappy AC non-variable one before that.For tools I usually go for quality. Your next bet might be go for used and check out kijiji or craigslist or even amazon.

author: RissViss
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2017, 10:31:21 pm
content: Thanks for the reply.A Hakko at my local electronics seller is 163. with tax, finding on for 100 CAD dollars all in would be great.
Buying a ferrite transformer {Solved} - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Raj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 10:23:05 am
content: I had a really expensive phillips light bulb.Woke up to find that the (bayonet style) bulb holder got so rusty that it's "mortise" broke off and the connector spring ejected it 8 feet below.Opened it to find a broken transformer (as in picture) labeled "452k 1620".Can I buy a replacement transformer? I googled the number and got no relevant result.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 02:21:14 pm
content: It will be custom made. Your best bet is to repair it. If the wire is still connected to the leads, just glue it back together. If it's broken, then you'll have to measure the wire thickness, unwind it, counting the number of turns, taking note of the direction of each winding and rewind it the same.

author: Raj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 04:51:40 pm
content: I guess I would have to rewind it.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 05:15:30 pm
content: Thank you for recycling. We all need to get back to the make do and mend mind set.
Buying a Power Supply for different electronic projects - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Forser
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2016, 09:51:37 am
content: Greetings EEVBlog and It's awesome forumists.I am looking after a power supply that is priced around 300 usd (incl shipping if possible).What i would like to see it have is 0-30 V and 0-3 A (but if it supports more on either it's fine).One output but if it has two or more is a bonus.Have been looking on different models from different brands and trying to watch different review videos, reading forum posts and tried googlefu.The ones i have seen so far are TTi EL303R, TENMA 72-2535 (which seems to be Korad KA3005P or such).Is there any other ones to keep an eye out for? I would prefer it to be available in European Store since shipping from China takes a long time and USA are expensive shipping + Customs.Thanks in advance.

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 12, 2016, 12:00:48 pm
content: Have a look at tme.eu - It's located in EU, and they ship very fast. I have always had next day delivery from them, which is quite good from Poland to Denmark.http://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/workplace-equipment_112607/#id_category=100165&s_field=artykul&s_order=ASC&visible_params=2%2C622%2C2706%2C383%2C365%2C364%2C72%2C55%2C1594%2C74%2C1784%2C375&used_params=364%3A356201%3B

author: Forser
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2016, 12:05:25 pm
content: Thanks, Looks like good prices, no idea about the brands they have so i have to research them.

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2016, 01:19:10 pm
content: I picked up an Arksen power supply off ebay, triple output, two variable,one fixed. The variables could be series for 0 - 60 V, or paralled. Costwas ~ US $150. LED displays (4) for both channels V and I.Regards, Dana.

author: SkyMaster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2016, 04:55:47 pm
content: Quote from: Forser on March 12, 2016, 09:51:37 amGW INSTEK GPS-2303Dual channel: 0-30 V and 0-3 A - Can be set in parallel (0-6 A) or serie (0-60 V) through front panel switches.299 euro athttp://www.tme.eu/en/details/gps-2303/multichannel-power-supplies/gw-instek/For less money you could get the GPS-3030DD, which is single channel.You cannot go wrong with either of these.GW Instek is a company from Taiwan.There is a lot of Chinese power supplies that have a front panel that look like the GW Instek power supplies. But the internal of these Chinese power supplies is build down to a price

author: Forser
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2016, 06:02:52 pm
content: Thanks for all the tips and such.Picked up a second hand PSU with two 30V / 5A and one 5V/5A connection for about 100 euros, it works fine and i am happy
Buying a Programmer/Debugger - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jrozner
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2017, 06:00:56 pm
content: Looking to finally upgrade from my janky Arduino based ISP programmer to something a little fancier. I'm currently working primarily with avr but am planning to start digging more into arm for future projects. I know that atmel has their fancy programming/debugger system that does all the avr and sam chips but was wondering if there were any recommendations for something that would support more or offer more functionality? For debugging I'm planning to use gdb with openocd where ever possible so preferably something that supports that.

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 18, 2017, 08:42:39 pm
content: How about the Tin Can Tools Flyswatter2? I've used the original Flyswatter with a number of projects and would probably get the updated v2 next time I use OpenOCD (which admittedly was a while ago).http://www.tincantools.com/JTAG/Flyswatter2.html

author: fki82
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2017, 09:00:50 pm
content: If you want to debug ATMEGAs and SAMs, there seems to be no other way than to buy the ATMEL box.For debugging the ATMEGAs, the debugger needs debugWIRE, which is proprietary to ATMEL.I don't know of any non-ATMEL debugger that supports it.
Buying a proper solder wire - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 128ITSH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2017, 01:36:16 pm
content: Hello everyone!Its my first post here, and currently I'm setting my electronics lab - on a tight budget.After watching Dave's soldering tutorial I searched for the type of solder wire which he (strongly) suggested to have - A fine 63/37 multi-core flux solder, and It seams to be quiet expensive. However a local store sells some Chinese solder which claims to have 2% flux in it for a much smaller price.Is it worth buying a chip, 2% flux Chinese solder, Or should I stick with the high-end expensive multi-core flux solder wire? Maybe you know a place where I can buy multi-core flux solder for low price?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2017, 02:48:33 pm
content: This question gets discussed every few months. Do a search and read those threads. (This is always good advice before asking questions on forums, by the way.)There isn't any real change in the solder market, so it's always the same advice: Avoid cheap chinese solder like the plague, and buy a roll of "expensive" brand-name solder (Kester, Multicore/Loctite, MG, Indium, Felder, Stannol, etc.). Depending on where you live, some brands will be way more expensive than others, so don't get stuck on a specific brand, but rather choose whichever high-quality solder brand is cheapest where you live. (Tip for beginners: Don't get solder wire with water-soluble flux, even if it's on sale. Go for rosin or no-clean.)The ideal diameter varies depending on application and personal taste, but most people like something around 0.5-0.7mm diameter (0.02-0.03"). A roll lasts a LONG time so even "expensive" solder is a negligible expense. And some added flux (like a liquid flux pen or some gel flux) never hurts. Again, don't buy Chinese crap.

author: 128ITSH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2017, 04:05:55 pm
content: Thanks for your answer!Your'e right I should've searched for this question, but I didn't guessed It has already been questioned here. Now after reading more threads I see I should go on the non-Chinese brands.
Buying a Rigol DS1052E - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Torrentula
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2012, 07:39:06 pm
content: Hello!I'm looking forward to buying a Rigol DS1052E but I don't know which distributor to buy it from. I have come across Batronix (355€) and MCS Test Equipment (299€).The MCS offer sounds great 299€ + free shipping to the whole EU.The way of ordering the product though seems very strange to me, not like on any other "standard" online shop. It's really kind of confusing me :SThanks in advance!Torrentula

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 14, 2012, 07:42:57 pm
content: Try calling or e-mailing MCS, they seem quite helpful on this forum.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2012, 07:44:39 pm
content: Go for the DS1102E (Saelig, tequipment.net, or anywhere else)... it costs $399 and the DS1052E costs (typically) $350. Mind you, you could hack the thing to be equivilent to a DS1102E and save $50, just be aware that some people have bricked their scope in doing so.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2012, 08:13:28 pm
content: Torrentula is in Europe. It is not helpful to point at US distributors...

author: DaveW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2012, 08:50:32 pm
content: I have bought from both and I'd have no trouble recommending either. When I got a couple of scopes from MCS, one was rattling and they replaced it next day-great people to deal with. The MCS website was a bit odd when I last used it, easy to give them a ring though.With Batronix the service is fine as well-but if MCS is that much cheaper....

author: Torrentula
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2012, 01:16:19 pm
content: I've just found a DS1102E at Batronix for 387€ and the DS1052E for 320€, seems the prices have dropped around 30 bucks niceSo I'm going to order from Batronix, anyway thanks for the help!Torrentula

author: windwave
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 23, 2012, 01:05:39 pm
content: I purchased onhttp://shop.thasar.coma DS1052E. So far I am very satisfied by the instruments and also the purchase process on this shop was fast and reliable. Price was 299€ + free shipping in EU (usually 3 days).By the way, the warranty is 3 years and is managed locally in EU, I do not have to send the unit to China..The only "problem" is that they only sell Rigol products..Have a nice day!

author: Randall W. Lott
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 29, 2012, 04:17:21 am
content: I saw it for $338.70 with free shipping. Too bad I can't even afford that!
buying advice for psu - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: amateur_25
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 06:00:09 pm
content: Hi guys,I started off wanting to build my own psu but it's taking me too long and I don't have confidence in it either.i'm still a beginner so it's best if i buy one to use for the mean time i think.I want a proper adjustable lab power supply with current limit displayed on separate display in advance (i.e no shorting out the output to set the limit)I found Thurlby on ebay is this a good suppply?http://rover.ebay.com/rover/2/0/8?bu=43986972890&segname=16TE179832_T_GENERIC&crd=20170414090000&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152504481322&ch=osgood&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.%24%7Bprefix%7Debay.%24%7Bdomain%7D%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F%24%7BITEM1_NUMBER%7D&osub=27aedb4d094b3a38b544dada8f2ca22b%7Edfaa6263cc7121bf4d2fe9ab568aab3a&sojTags=emid%3Dbu%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Curl%3Durl%2Cch%3Dch%2Cosub%3Dosub

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 06:58:18 pm
content: Thurlby (Aim TTi) are good, and that's a good price but note the postage costs. It's listed as working so you should be able to return it if it does not perform. I suspect that you will have to turn-off the output if you want to set the current limit - I have the older LCD version but I don't find this a problem.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 07:23:45 pm
content: I would only buy it if I could get a service manual. Otherwise I would get an old HP.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2017, 10:57:41 pm
content: Yes, its a popular supply if you live in the UK or the EU. There are better brands from that era for US buyers of US and Japanese makes: HP [not Agilent], Power Designs, Lambda, Kikusui etc., and they go for about the same price, $50-100, shipped. You can google the PL310 for repair issues and schematics.

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2017, 01:59:41 am
content: Quote from: David Hess on April 14, 2017, 07:23:45 pmThe service manuals are readily available - just search this forum.
Buying an amplifier - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jacktron
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2024, 07:57:54 pm
content: I am trying to buy an amplifier but I have never bought one before, so I am a little confused. When you buy an amplifier, does it come with the circuit described on the product page. Take this LTC6268https://www.analog.com/en/products/ltc6268.html#part-detailsthe data sheet that is provided shows the LTC in a circuit, is that circuit inside the chip or do i have to provide those parts myself?

author: Manul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2024, 08:53:25 pm
content: LTC6268 is an Operational Amplifier, or Op Amp for short. Op Amp has power supply pins, inverting (-) and non-inverting (+) input pins and one output pin (there could be two output pins (differential output Op Amp), there could be options like shutdown pin, offset pin, compensation pin, etc). These pins are shown in Op Amp symbol - triangle. Everything around the triangle are separate components, they are not part of Op Amp.LTC6268 might not be the easiest Op Amp to get started, cause it's fast and requires a fair amount of attention to detail to get the best out of it.You can sometimes buy evaluation boards which are built to showcase the Op Amp or some other IC. They are fully functional circuits with additional components already selected.

author: Jacktron
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2024, 09:13:28 pm
content: I need an amplifier that can amplify the signal from a function generator to create an ac electromagnet

author: Manul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2024, 10:19:59 pm
content: Quote from: Jacktron on September 09, 2024, 09:13:28 pmAudio amplifier might suit you. Either home stereo amplifier or some cheap Class-D no-name module. In that case you don't need to build your own, which is a huge time saver.
Buying connectors like banana plugs and leads - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2019, 06:31:28 pm
content: I want to know which brand or store can I buy different types of connectors like banana plugs and leads for Multi meter or power supply at good price and good quality as well.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2019, 06:37:58 pm
content: Good quality banana connectors come from Pomona and are available at DigikeyGood quality test leads come from Probemaster and are available directhttps://www.pomonaelectronics.com/products/banana-plugs-jacks-and-hardware/banana-plugs-and-jackshttps://probemaster.com/dmm-multimeter-test-leads/Quality and price usually have a direct relationship. I buy the quality at whatever it costs.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2019, 08:01:48 pm
content: I bought a bunch of different Elenco leads from Amazon with no complaints.Like:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JJU3C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JJU4Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JJU1O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1The wire is a little stiff but very usable.
Buying electronic Tools for student/hobbyist from India - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: not_Dave
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2010, 03:04:20 pm
content: hi everyone,I am a student/hobbyist from India. What I find most difficult in India is lack of stores like digikey or arrow that sell electronic components and tools cheap. If I have to buy a Fluke I have to give 100% customs duty. Does anyone know some place (online) or store front that sells some normal priced good meters and scopes in India. My budget is very limited though.Here is my background,I had a priced Mastech one I bought for Rs650 approx $15 way some 8 years ago, and it has lost its accuracy, I am somewhat screwed now. I do not have much money as I am a student and couldn't find anything decent in my price range either!

author: gushh
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 26, 2010, 03:59:58 pm
content: Where in India are you exactly? it's not a small place...

author: not_Dave
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 28, 2010, 05:57:22 am
content: Sorry for the late reply. I am from Kerala. :|

author: not_Dave
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 30, 2010, 06:36:53 am
content: Just to let you know that on Monday I got myself (technically) an Extech ex430 :http://www.extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=48&prodid=272from radioshack. they ran a deal of almost half the price. My cousin got it for me from USA. Will get it by Christmas.The good thing is that I got it for 1/4 the price it is here in India. Now I only need 3 more DMMs

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 30, 2010, 06:55:50 am
content: you will cope fine with 2, start buying some components and experimenting, no point in a shed load of tools and nothing for you to do with them
buying enameled / magnetic wire - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: made2hack
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2015, 07:07:12 am
content: Hello,So I'm buying about 2Kg of 2mm (12 AWG) diameter enameled wire tomorrow. Since I'm already at the suppliers', I was wondering what other AWG would you recommend I pick up?I know that everyone will ask how much Amps I will be putting through, I don't know what to answer. The reason I am picking up the 2mm wire is that I want that to go in a bench power supply and be able to handle up to 10A.As for some other wire to pick up, it doesn't have to handle that much. What would you recommend as a good all around wire to have in case I need to wind some wire? Would 18AWG be good? 22Awg?Thanks,

author: made2hack
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2015, 07:50:58 am
content: Ok,My calculations were somewhat off. I was not taking into account the area of the copper cross section. So, I will actually be buying 1.05mm wire (AWG 18) for my needs.

author: mzzj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2015, 12:51:15 pm
content: Quote from: AcHmed99 on May 23, 2015, 10:14:53 amI would consider buying also 0,5mm and 0,25mm diameter wires. Hard to say what you actually need but above 1mm I often end up using several parallei wires for various reasons and thinner than 0,25mm is more tricky to handle and I'll try to avoid smaller than that.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2015, 02:05:25 pm
content: If you'll be doing much with transformers or inductors, I'd recommend a selection from 18 to 30-some AWG. You can choose large intervals (like 18, 24, 30, 36) since you can always connect finer strands in parallel...(and sometimes there are very good reasons to prefer to do so!).Tim

author: made2hack
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2015, 03:07:09 pm
content: thanks guys.i ended up buying 2kg of 1mm and 1/2 kg of 0.5.Even the guy selling told me not to bother with diameters less than 0.3mm as they will snap very easily.
Buying First Scope - Advice? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Yael
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2012, 10:39:39 pm
content: First off, I hope I posted this in the right section...I am at that stage in this hobby where I have come to the conclusion that I need to buy an oscilloscope to do the kinds of projects that I want to do. I have narrowed it down to a few instruments that I am considering and am hoping that some of you guys can lend your opinion to which would be the best choice for a first scope. My budget is roughly $1000USD. Also I want to go with a new instrument, rather than take a chance with eBay.1) Rigol DS1052Ehttp://www.rigolna.com/products/digital-oscilloscopes/ds1000e/ds1052e/2) Tektronix TDS1001C-EDUhttp://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tektronix/TDS1001C-EDU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlgkI5U25OijlJN9WsUMJRRYPDSASh%2fiY%3d3) Tektronix TDS2001Chttp://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tektronix/TDS2001C/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlgkI5U25OigrtVhteobaKYZGcky1IlFg%3d4) LeCroy WaveAce 101http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/LeCroy/WaveAce-101/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlgkI5U25Oipu08tI9f6UIRuS1FCxjRtk%3d

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 01, 2012, 10:43:10 pm
content: No contest, the Rigol wins hands down with its deep 1M memory.The others are poor value for money with their pathetically small memory.But with a $1000 budget you'd get the 100MHz DS1102E at $399 of course.I'm not sure you'd get better bang-per-buck than that under $1000. Save the rest of your money for other gear, like maybe a PC USB logic analyser and other stuff.Dave.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2012, 10:52:32 pm
content: I've been exploring my Rigol and it's not been very clear how to make effective use of the 1M memory. The user guide devotes about 1 sentence to it as passing reference and says nothing at all about when or why to use it compared to the normal 16k memory that is the default setting.I thought perhaps it might be used to acquire a long stream of data that can be exported for later analysis, but other than that I don't see what to do with it.

author: DaMaDo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2012, 03:40:24 am
content: I was between the Rigol DS1102e and Owon SDS7102 and chose the latter b/c I didn't know the difference in anything else except the larger, nicer screen on the Owon hehHopefully it won't disappoint.Here'sa review of it if you want to add it to your list.

author: Yael
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2012, 11:43:14 pm
content: Thanks for the responses, I think I am going to go with the 100MHz Rigol.

author: larrwill
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2012, 03:02:52 pm
content: On the issue of memory depth, how much is enough or needed to capture a signal in some different scenarios?I.E. Capturing the bounce of a mechanical switch or capturing an entire I2C command?Can the Rigol DS1102E accomplish these two examples?Thanks

author: slashguitar
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2012, 06:30:36 am
content: you can capture I2C and switch bouncing
Buying Individual Pins for Common Connectors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: techie1234
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2016, 03:36:35 pm
content: I feel kinda silly for posting this, but...I've been searching high-n-low trying to find how to buy a stock of individual male pins for common connectors (e.g., the various styles of ATX PC power supply connectors). Not a full male connector (although some of those don't seem that easy to find, either..) - but the individual pins that go into manufacturing a complete male connector. I want to solder wires to them and then "break out" individual pins to connector to other parts of circuits.What is it should I be searching for called, as I seem to only pull up full connectors regardless of the search terms I've tried to use?Also, what are the common sizes that I should have a stock of?

author: Paul Moir
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2016, 04:18:23 pm
content: "Molex connector contact"Molex makes a lot of connectors, but these are one of it's more popular styles.

author: techie1234
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2016, 04:31:12 pm
content: Quote from: Paul Moir on July 29, 2016, 04:18:23 pmAh - "contact" was the missing bit when I was searching.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 29, 2016, 05:50:23 pm
content: connectors and pins are a complete nuisance unless your dealing with metal industrial/military connectors that are fabolously well documented and standardized.