Soldering nickel plated copper wire/banan/alligator clips - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: vjekobalas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2021, 04:55:10 pm
content: I have an old Weller TC202D soldering station which I bought in Australia (for 240V, 60Hz)but am using in Croatia(230V, 50Hz) - not sure whether this will make a further difference to my soldering.I would like to put together some wire leads for charging some car hybrid battery modules (Amperage < 5Amps).I want to use some wire I have laying around (2.5mm2) salvaged from previous work from a telephone lab.The problem is I'm not sure what to use to properly solder as the nickel (or perhaps the cross-section of the wire)are not allowing allowing the solder to flow properly (not sure what type of solder it is - donkeys years old , theblack spool has the word CAP ALLOY written on itAttached is a photo of the wire (I tried soldering on a piece) and the banana and alligator clips

author: iMo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2021, 05:07:35 pm
content: There is an acidic flux for that. It is a liquid (ethanol+phosphoric acid, afaik) you may buy in a hobby electronics/hardware store. You have to clean it after soldering.PS: The liquid is sold in small 20-50ml plastic bottles. A "microscopic amount" is enough - I've been using a toothpick, made wet only in the liquid and touching with it the surface I want to solder.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 12, 2021, 05:18:04 pm
content: Most of half-decent mildly activated flux for electronics including simply rosin core solder should work well enough. If any trouble, use more active flux, like RA. No need to use nasty acidic stuff. SnPb solder will wet it easier than lead-free stuff.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2021, 06:26:28 pm
content: That kind of cable and connectors should be crimped, not soldered. Using acidic flux is a certain recipe for early failure.

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2021, 06:42:29 pm
content: Random thoughts:Never use acid flux on electrical connections. You can't clean it from inside the stranded wire so it's guaranteed to rot the wire.Old wire can be coated with crud exuded by the aging insulation. Extra rosin flux often helps cut through it. I bought a small bottle of liquid flux just for this sort of thing. You can also try cleaning the wire with isopropyl alcohol, contact cleaner, flux remover, etc. before soldering it.The differences in the electrical supply are unlikely to have any effect on this.The wire looks like it hasn't been heated enough for the solder to flow. Do you have a larger iron you can try?Are you sure the wire is nickel plated? That would be very unusual wire. Normally wire is tin plated to protect the copper from corrosion and make iteasierto solder.Ed

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2021, 07:03:32 pm
content: Don't solder this. Even if you do get it to work, the wire will eventually break where the solder ends.If you really want it to work though. You need some rosin flux, the thickest tip you have, and your iron at its max temp.

author: vjekobalas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2021, 08:22:52 am
content: Thanks for all the input ! I'm not sure whether it is nickel or tin on thewire/alligator/banana connectors -would this make any difference in caseI was soldering it - just to round up the topic as you've got me swayedtowards crimping ?

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2021, 09:05:20 am
content: Most likely tin, not sure you can get nickel plated multi-strand wire. It's probably just oxidised, spread out the strands and use some medium/fine sand paper to clean it. Fiberglass cleaning pens and the old "ink" erasers work for this too as they are abrasive.

author: bobbydazzler
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2021, 10:46:24 am
content: I think you should just use the screw on the alligator clips to attach the wire in this case.Otherwise for soldering you should tin the wire separately 1st then tin the alligator clip then join them together.If you can't tin the nickel plating maybe scratch a bit off to show the copper underneath.

author: w9gb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2021, 01:16:00 pm
content: 1.) Acquire a Quality Solder: 60/40 or 63/37 Alloy (Tin/Lead) OR SAC Alloy (Lead Free).2.) Use a file or Emery sandpaper to rough up the smooth nickel finish (Nickel plating on Alligator clips, not good Solder)

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 12:24:29 am
content: Really no need to crimp these types of alligator clips . Strip off the insulation approximately a half inch (13mm) to an inch (25mm) on the wire . Twist the copper end. You can tin the copper if you like but it's not necessary . Feed wire through the barrel of clip then through the first hole by the screw . Turn the wire around the screw clock wise and tighten the screw. You can crimp the barrel if you like but I suggest using a piece of shrink tube to stabilize the wire insulation to the clip barrel instead . This way you can replace the wire with ease without deforming or destroying the clip . Edited to clarify the length of stripped wire . This may vary depending on the size of clip .For crimping just the barrel you would strip approximately 3/8 of an inch (10mm) . Twist the wire end and fold back over the insulation . Insert the wire into the barrel of clip . crimp with appropriate crimp-er . Folding over the wire creates a more secure connection that is difficult to pull out. Care should be taken not to deform the clip .Soldering is Ok but can be difficult if your soldering iron is of low wattage . Preheating may be needed . Another problem is the risk of using to much solder making the clip of poor function or unusable . This can also make the wire stiff at the connection due to excess solder travelling (wicking) up the wire .