[SOLVED] LED Driver replacement with dimmer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: oliv3r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2025, 02:17:41 pm
content: Hey all,maybe an oddball question, but my bathroom LED driver started to stop working (leds blinking) so I assume the driver is busted. The LED driver is a 36V 700 mA constant current driver, and the LED spots are 3 units of 12V 700mA each. I have 2 drivers and thus 6 LED spots.The LED driver states on its housing that its dimmable with leading and trailing edges.So now I'm looking at replacing the driver, and pairing it with a shelly dimmer 0-10V PWM dimmer. I have found a few good suspects from meanwell, but I'm doubting whether I should stick with a double design (e.g. 2 drivers) which has as an advantage if one fails, the other keeps working (like right now) or picking up a beefier driver and running things at 74 Volts (12 * 6 in series). The drivers and wiring are behind a recessed ceiling, so fully touch-free, but the 74 Volts feels odd to me.Regardless, if I run two drivers, could I control them with 1 dimmer? e.g. connect both DIM- and DIM+ of the drivers to a single shelly dimmer? Since the drivers just use it to measure the PWM frequency, I don't see how this would be a problem, but who knows.Any thoughts are appreciated.

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2025, 10:13:02 am
content: Some values are not connecting.0-10V and PWM means that frequency and pulse width remains and amplitude is adjusted.But then it probably means that 0-10V is a control voltage and PWM part is mains AC.On the other hand, if 0-10V is a dimmer control then the situation is different.In that case driver can be dimmed and 0-10V DC is controlling its dimmed state.Then DIM+/- is not what is expected.

author: John B
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2025, 07:31:28 pm
content: The meanwell and similar drivers have a few different dimming schemes: 0-10V analog, 10V PWM up to 3kHz, or using a potentiometer as a variable resistance. Make sure to check the datasheet and check the exact model number to ensure it has the functions as they do vary in combinations.The datasheets say you can connect multiple dimming controls together, even using the potentiometer, but you need to change pot values. 0-10V or PWM is the way to go.I would go with a higher voltage to output 72V, but the only issue is finding one with the dimming capabilities you want. I wouldn't be too concerned about them failing. I've had some running for many years without any failures.

author: oliv3r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 08:59:04 am
content: So I've had bad luck with the current driver, even though it was mounted against the thick concrete ceiling (so a little bit of cooling :p)Currently, I have 3 LED bulb's connected to 2 drivers, so going from 36V to 72V is certainly an option, just a little bit of rewiring needed (connect the last bulb in series to the other 3).The only reason I'm thinking of going for 2x 36 is that no rewiring is needed, and IF one of them fails, I'll still have 50% of the light in the bathroomP.S. indeed, if we're talking about DIM+ DIM- on the PWM 0-10V input, we're talking about separate dimming control inputs, and I do have my answer now, which I stupidly could have gained from the datasheetI can connect multiple modules to a single PWM dimmer.I'm not sure what you mean with 'dimming capabilities I want'. I want to dim the LED's, would a 36V dimmer do it differently from a 72V dimmer? (I did notice that the lower wattage dimmer didn't have 0-10V PWm dimming input, so I may end up having to go with the 72V anyway)

author: John B
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 09:49:40 am
content: Quote from: oliv3r on January 21, 2025, 08:59:04 amThat's basically answered your own question, just be sure to double check the exact model you're buying vs what's in the datasheet as meanwell has many combinations of available dimming control methods, or even no dimming input at all. In which case they may be fixed values or adjustable with built in potentiometers.

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 12:34:04 pm
content: PWM 0-10V input has two inputs, 0-10V DC and PWM something.It's possible that the driver can understand both, but most likely only one is active at the time.One is DC voltage control and other is pulse width control, maybe it actually means frequency control.Frequency mentioned with PWM control can mean min/max frequency of control pulses.

author: oliv3r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2025, 09:51:46 am
content: The ELG-75-C700-B of the 75W variant has 3 modes of input, 0-10V, PWM and resistance. (the -A has a built in pot, the AB offers both, D* is DALI/Smart stuff that I don't want). So I'm confident what I want.So ELG-75-C700-B-3Y, otherwise I ELG-75-C700-B-2 and i'll have to ground the housing, not my preferred option.Thanks! This was certainly useful.

author: John B
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2025, 10:21:49 pm
content: You sure you don't need network connected drivers? Once the smart bug bites you, there's no going backI might have gone that route, except that I would have needed 2x drivers per light (dual colour temp), meaning massive cost.Meanwell says that the drivers aren't suitable for post regulation, but I have made my own without issue. That way I can have up to 4 dual colour panels on 1 driver. The drivers probably have minimal output capacitance and they probably won't like high ripple current, and may become unstable with another switching converter.