good value soldering iron/station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 08:24:46 am
content: Right, I'm starting to do some SMD soldering for work so want to get a decent iron, I have my trusty antex 15W and 18W irons but I think it's time for something a little better.I've looked around and can't really find anything that is decent but does not break the bank, smallest I will solder is 1206 so I'm not after the crown jewels of soldering irons/stations.What do I need to be aware of ? I've looked for the hakko FX-88D but not found any outisde of the USA so voltages are a problem. my local craplin will have one made by atten for £60.What do I do ? are no name brands any good ?

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 08:58:50 am
content: If your budget will stretch to £100 then I'd go with a second hand Metcal.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 09:06:38 am
content: So what is the difference between these two other than price:http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/60w-professional-lcd-solder-station-with-esd-protection-a55kjhttp://uk.farnell.com/tenma/21-10115-uk/soldering-station-60w-220v-uk/dp/2064549

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 09:10:33 am
content: Quote from: Simon on February 26, 2014, 09:06:38 amoh and so called manufacturer

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 10:01:41 am
content: Other value options seem to include:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ceramic-Soldering-Station-Temperature-Control-/171225322726?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item27ddd314e6andhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ceramic-soldering-station-48W-/201013419476?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ecd555dd4

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 10:31:44 am
content: I'd go with the Farnell offering, mostly because there's a range of tips available and it's cheap enough not to worry about when you want to upgrade.

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 10:32:26 am
content: I heard that Jovy Systems iSolder 40 presents a very good value for money. Haven't had a chance to test it myself though.Jovy are a Chinese company, but they seem to make original equipment rather than ripoffs of other brands.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 10:50:27 am
content: Quote from: KJDS on February 26, 2014, 10:31:44 amtry working for the place I work for...... we have a fixed temp 50W iron that in my opinion is dead but it's not my problem if the guy using it don't know that.the tenma that farnell have has some awful reviews on amazon

author: Joule Thief
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 10:52:32 am
content: Quote from: Simon on February 26, 2014, 10:01:41 amFor a closer look at this station and accessorieshttp://www.mpja.com/Solder-Station-with-LED-Display-ZD-929C/productinfo/15845%20TL/I have one on my garage workbench - has been a reliable performer for the last 2 - 3 years.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 10:56:05 am
content: yes I seem to remember plenty of the previous LED bar model at school

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 11:10:39 am
content: Quote from: Simon on February 26, 2014, 09:06:38 amThe Farnell one is Atten 938D model, rebranded :http://www.atten.eu/solder-rework.htmlThe Maplin one is 980D model, but the 980D should be 80w, Maplin lists it as 60w.Go for the Farnell one without worrying about it. Easy to find tips, simple electoronics inside etc etc.QuoteBuy it, open it up (unlikely to be any seal on it), inspect the quality, if you don't like it return it.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 11:12:16 am
content: well I've ended up going for the skytronic one, unlike the atten rebranded one they don't have heaps of bad reveiws.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 11:59:24 am
content: Going somewhat off topic, but do the directors at your workplace drive Ladas or Mercs?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 12:03:02 pm
content: The 2 directors drive audi's why ?

author: Joule Thief
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 12:22:26 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on February 26, 2014, 11:12:16 ammake sure you buy a pair of "hot tweezers" too. They can do SMD, and with the larger replaceable tips bent properly, you have a thermal wire stripper.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 12:46:00 pm
content: Well it's just soic8 parts at the moment, my biggest concern is that I have ground planes and that the 48W iron can handle it.Is hot air any use for building from scratch, or is it just for reworking ?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 01:01:22 pm
content: Good luck finding tips... if you can't afford a Hakko at least get a '936-style station, tips and other parts are plentiful for them. The handle is also a lot lighter and smaller.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 01:15:02 pm
content: The tips are available

author: Frost
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 01:15:35 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on February 26, 2014, 12:46:00 pmIt's useful for SMD reflow soldering.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 01:19:58 pm
content: ah so really just heating up whole area's to remove a part or solder it with solder paste.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 01:22:58 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on February 26, 2014, 01:01:22 pmIt's a case of finding one in the UK that is on the lower price range, they have them in the USA but not UK, I would happily have had them buy me a hakko.

author: Frost
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 01:35:35 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on February 26, 2014, 01:19:58 pmYes, to solder a new part onto an empty board.Look around 2:00 in the video I have linked.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 01:36:24 pm
content: Well paste is very expensive, I'll not ask my employer for that yet

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 01:41:59 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on February 26, 2014, 12:03:02 pmBut insist you only get a Lada grade soldering iron. ...

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 01:46:06 pm
content: Yep, so much nicer working for myself 1 hour a day, I can "afford" so much stuff they "can't" (won't).I'm going to try out the farnell one for myself.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 04:47:59 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on February 26, 2014, 12:46:00 pmWorst case, you could use an inexpensive Asian made pre-heating plate in addition to the iron (example).UK Source.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 05:14:36 pm
content: I don't quite understand, if the "plate" can reach 350C in 10 seconds why is it a preheater and not soldering parts down ?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 11:01:42 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on February 26, 2014, 05:14:36 pmBoard, pads, and parts have to come up to temp. Too many variables to contend with IMHO, so it seems manufacturers refer to the time the unit can hit a specified temp.Bottom line though, they still help when you're working on a board that's pulling too much heat from your iron for the given conditions to make a proper joint.An electric skillet might be another alternative, should you need some additional heat from the bottom of a PCB. Never tried this, but have seen a few posts/sites/blogs online that show them used for this purpose (have a couple, but they're used for cooking food on occasion and not using them for soldering is the easiest way to avoid any problems).

author: granz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 06:50:19 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on February 26, 2014, 11:01:42 pmI've actually used a $30 skillet for soldering some annoying 160-pin FPGA mezzanine connectors (FMC-LPC) on to a custom dev board. Co-workers didn't believe I could do it without sending it out for proper reflow soldering because you can't even see the pads. I did 4 boards with a 50% success rate, but that was with the crudest of methods (thermocouple from meter for temperature and then manually adjusting the temperature). It's not the most fun ever, but it's handy for some situations.For hot air, I've been using one of these for a while now:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Ship-ATTEN-AT-858D-220V-SMD-Hot-Air-Rework-Digital-Station-Solder-Blower-Gun-/121283625716?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item1c3d1142f4I was definitely skeptical of it at first, but it's actually held up great. I'd say it's probably had about 300 hours of use and no problems yet...I find that when fiddling around, it's much easier to swap out smd caps/resistors just with a bit of hot air, sometimes you can pop one out, and the new one in without even adding extra solder or getting the iron.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 07:25:50 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on February 26, 2014, 08:24:46 amThe prices here is kinda good:http://www.dancap.co.uk/At least compared to Norway.. the 951 for instance is twice the price here compared to uk.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 09:01:43 pm
content: Well I got the tenma Iron for myself, not over the moon to be honest, I oput it through hell by dipping the tip into water to get it running full blast, very quickly the whole handle heats to the point where I can't hold it, only plus is that it held 400C with the tip in water, I'm wondering if I can put air holes in the handle to help it cope. The extra thick bit on the handle near the tip end now becomes clear. The skytronic I ordered for work has the element out of the handle with a shield to help protect the handle.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 09:44:55 pm
content: Pulling the rubber grip off the base of the iron has helped, it means it does not hold so much heat and it now fits into the stand whereas before the iron would not go into the stand because the rubber boot stopped it.

author: mimmus78
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 10:31:58 pm
content: Just went on youtube after reading this thread and big G suggested me this video:it would be a day you can write question somewhere and get reply to youtube.

author: jadew
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 11:16:23 pm
content: I'm a bit late to the party, but you have an authorized Hakko distributor in UK:http://www.dancap.co.uk/In case you're looking for a second iron, you could ask them for a quote.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 08:06:08 am
content: I didn't realize despite goggling around. To be honest what I thought with the Tenma was reselling them myself hence I'm thrashing the thing to satisfy myself that it will survive average use, it's not bad at 300C but hard working at 400 is a no. I'm wondering if I can replace the iron should I choose and get another one, the plugs all seem to be the same, it's a case of the temp sensor although this unit can be calibrated.