Solder station MLINK S4 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tridentsx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2014, 11:15:18 pm
content: I was browsing ebay trying to find a replacement for my now defunct hakko clone. I was mainly looking for a jbc seems everyone loves them.While I was browsing I found a new model( at least to me) MLINK s4 that claims its using similar technology to the higher end brands but at a budget cost.http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Frequency-Induction-Soldering-Station-100W-adjustable-MLINK-S4-120v-60hz-/261485355326?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce1bde13eAnyone has experience with this model ? Should I give it a go, would it be an upgrade to a vanilla hakko clone ?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 01:28:26 am
content: Where are you located, and what's your budget?BTW, if you go into your user profile and enter in your country, your nation's flag will display beneath your userID. Makes things a LOT easier this way, particularly regarding relevant links (pricing and availability).

author: tridentsx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 01:43:11 am
content: I live outside Seattle, WA

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 02:11:17 am
content: Quote from: tridentsx on July 30, 2014, 01:43:11 amBudget?I ask, as there are some smoking deals here in the US at a couple of price/performance segments. At the entry level for example, you'd be crazy not to go for either a Hakko FX-888D or Weller WES51, which can both be had for just under the $100 mark.Up it to a Hakko FX-951, and you get cartridge tips (heater + sensor in the tip, not the iron), and a stand actuated sleep function (helps extend the life of tips), which is the same type of features you'd find on a JBC (though not with JBC's performance), for $266.77. Quite a bit of value in this unit, particularly when it would take over $500 to do that with a Weller WX1011 (heck, even with an iron that just uses a plated copper slug <WX1010>). You just don't get all the tools available as you can with other brands such as Weller, so there may be a compromise if you want something that works with multiple tools.

author: tridentsx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 02:21:22 am
content: My budget is < $300, but I am intrigued by the technology of the MLINK using high frequency switching like metcal and jbc.It also has a standby mode and quick reheating like jbc.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 03:03:21 am
content: Quote from: tridentsx on July 30, 2014, 02:21:22 amJBC doesn't use induction. They use cartridge tip technology (heater + sensor in the tip).Regarding the MLINK, I wouldn't trust something from an unknown manufacturer if you expect it to last any time. And for that kind of money, you can get a Metcal/OKi (PS-900,MFR-1100<this one is a bit more, but has a higher frequency & additional features>).And given a soldering station is an often used tool, it's not something to cheap out on IMHO (cheap stations tend to cost you more in the long run, have poorer performance, and are less comfortable to use).BTW, any particular reason for going after an inductive station?I ask, as they're perfect for production, as users can't mess with the settings (relates to process control). But for prototyping/hobbyist use, where you may need to work with different tips, it means carrying multiple temp ratings for the same profile (i.e. 600F, 700F, and 800F in the same size chisels for example). Tends to be more expensive vs. an adjustable temp station, where one tip will do all temps possible on the station. Cost of consumables should definitely be part of your evaluation.Also, would you be willing to consider a good used station?Good deals do surface from time to time on eBay or even CL for example, and can get you more station than your budget will allow for new.

author: tridentsx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 06:13:13 am
content: Well I think it was my miss understanding that JBC and Metcal used same technology that made me wanna try this station. I have used a Metcal at work and it seems to do a much better job at getting heat into an area, for example when soldering large SMD regulators that are connected from the body to ground plane.When using my old hakko clone I had to wait minutes before I could get a good joint if I could get one at all for those devices often resulting in issues elsewhere on the same board.I definitely don't mind buying used if I can find a good deal for something that its easy to find consumables for.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 06:48:27 am
content: There is a seller on ebay in the us who regularly sells used metcal mx-500s, they go for about $100, throw in a $100 hand piece and a cartridge or 2 and you've got a sub $300 metcal.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 09:54:40 pm
content: Quote from: tridentsx on July 30, 2014, 06:13:13 amBolded text would be the source of your issue.Stick with a name brand, and you'll have a lot better station that actually works.These might be worth digging into a little deeper:JBC AD2700(comes with 3x extra tips)JBC DI3000(ask the seller which iron comes with it; T245 or 2245 is the general purpose size, T210 or 2210 is smaller and meant for SMD work)

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 10:04:38 pm
content: It seems unlikely to me that station could match the performance of metcal or JBC. It is using standard slip on tips with central heater core. I wonder if they are even using inductive heating of the tip, or if its just internal to the core.I would go with peter or nanos suggestion. You can get the newer aluminum metcal handpiece which is amazing. You might have to live with a cheap stand for now though, they are expensive new.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/metcal-sttc-soldering-cartridgetip-teardown/(there are more threads around)

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2014, 10:42:38 pm
content: Quote from: peter.mitchell on July 30, 2014, 06:48:27 am+1. I done just that. The the mx-500 is easy to maintain and full schematics are available on the net.One downside of the MLINK s4 is the tip change. It's not as quick as JBC and Metcal but may be a good choice for the price.

author: tridentsx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2014, 06:43:09 am
content: Thanks for all the recommendations, after reading forum thread after forum thread I decided to go with JBC.Seems no one is dissatisfied with their products.I bought this station, now I need to find a hand piece.eBay auction: #251604927445

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2014, 07:15:26 pm
content: Quote from: tridentsx on August 02, 2014, 06:43:09 amGeneral purpose iron =T245(does SMD too with the right tips)SMD iron =T210(best suited for small SMD work, say 0402 & smaller)Heavy duty iron =T470(think antenna connectors & such, even sheet metal or stain glass windows)BTW, that stand should work for both the T245 and T210 irons (same size metal collar). Also the newer T210 = older 2210 P/N, and newer T245 = older 2245 P/N.FWIW, a new stand runs $150.50 (T210 or T245 stand, andHD-SA stand for the T470).AD4300 Manual(direct .pdf download)Enjoy your new to you station.

author: DrTune
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2015, 11:30:15 pm
content: I just ordered an MLINK S4 from Ebay (US seller) for a mere $60 (incl 10 tips) - spent the afternoon looking at waaaaay more expensive models but I'm cheap - have an Yihua 936 and a Kendal 852D+ (w/hot air) both of which were very (very) cheap and have been pretty good except for simply not having the power to solder things like Lipo connectors (e.g. XT-90) which has been driving me nuts.I was primarily just looking for something temp controlled and >60watts so... I'll give this a shot. I found a single video review (in spanish) on Youtube hereIt looks passable if not great...A tenth of the price of a Metcal; not holding out any hopes it's going to be a quarter as good, but if can solder big connectors worth a damn I'll be happy. The cheapest (available) Metcal with 80W output is in the $800 range :-(Will post a review/teardown when it arrives in a few days.Alas the whole "induction heating" thing appears to be a pack of lies (...surprise!) - my iron is still in the mail but I found the manual online (and reposted it herehttp://docdro.id/ruBpy0E) and there's nothing in there about induction; it specifically mentions "Ceramic heater". Ah well, at least it looks like a tolerable 90watt temp-controlled iron (with a set of tips) for $60, so I'm really not too bummed - figured at that price it was too good to be true. Will review when I get it, but all hopes of Metcal-style induction heating have gone out the window. :-)

author: YU2
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2016, 10:11:02 pm
content: It seems it's made by Quick by the look of the case and display, although I can not find the exact model Quick makes.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2016, 10:48:14 pm
content: If it was an induction heating iron, why would it have "adjustable temperature" and the up/down button?But if the power rating on it and the warm up time is as stated (13 seconds from cold to 350C)*, it would have more power than a Hakko 888 for 2/3 the cost. For the price, it could be great. And the stand looks pretty decent. But I'm curious about replacement tips. It says to use T-200 tips. Is that a common tip for another brand, or is that their own tip? How's the selection?I am not sure why so many of these stations have the cord coming out of the right side. I suppose a lot of people put the station at the back of their bench, but some will set it over to the side... and last I checked 90% of the world was right-handed.*at the video review... He takes a temperature probe to the iron to prove it's at room temp, 27C. Then he turns it on. It hit 350 (on the station's display) in ~10 seconds!... Then he proceeds to talk for 20 seconds, iron still is in the stand, before doing any sort of testing to see if the display is accurate.By that time, a 40W 936 would have been hot enough to smoke solder.

author: DrTune
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2016, 12:53:04 pm
content: Ok I pulled it apart (partly to disconnect the f'in piezo beeper) and there's nothing very interesting inside, although it's reasonably well made.It's all grounded & insulated properly inside, heat shrink, proper connectors etc. Uses an Atmega8 to run the display and buttons.Nice-ish extruded aluminum case, everything mounted quite well, nothing rattles about, nothing scary to see. Decent PCBs, a couple of hand bodged SMT components but nothing to write home about.Power supply is a reasonably nicely made switching PSU (with a quite professional looking filter on the mains input), fused, well heatsinked; has an extra (and slightly oddly large) 12v transformer that appears to be just for the logic.The handpiece feels nicer-than-the-totally-cheap-ones (slightly thinner and better made) although the wiring inside the handset (thermocouple and ceramic heater of course) could be a little better done (some over-stripped wires) but it's grounded and the PSU in the box looks to be adequately isolated etc so seems safe enough.Can't find my Kill-a-watt right now to tell you the wattage unfortunately. The thermocouple in the handset appears to poke right through to just inside the tip which is encouraging but the software appears to be quite optimistic about its ability to hold a temperature; I wedged the tip into a big-ass heatsink (old PC CPU) and the "actual temp" readout barely moved, which I just don't believe (but again didn't measure wattage).Ultimately it's ok. It's defintely better than a $20 iron... but then I paid about $70 or so for it. The stand is quite nice.One simple test; it was at room temperature (been off for over an hour, completely cool to touch), I tightly wrapped a 1/2" piece of (60-40 lead) solder around the tip, and turned it on at same time as a stopwatch - it turned the solder into a blob by 9.8seconds. Not bad!Really nothing much to report other than it's a competently built and apparently safe "regular" iron, it does the job just fine. When I find my Killawatt I will measure the power though, I'd like to know how beefy the element really is; it works ok on moderately large ground-plane power devices - just from the feel of it in use I'd guess it's in the 50-60W range - I'll be happy to use it again as part of randomly scattered collection of irons around the house but it's no Metcal.Just because it starts up fairly quickly I may use it more, but I can't say I get annoyed at iron startup times anyway.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2016, 01:58:17 pm
content: Thanks for the update.If possible, some photos of the innards to show the build quality would be nice.

author: DrTune
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2016, 05:40:09 am
content: Sure.BTW the manufacturer says "high frequency switching" .. but that doesn't mean RF, it means it uses a switch-mode power supply.. [slow clap]Things of note; it has a six-wire connector from the handset to the box - all are connected internally. Three go to the logic board, three to the power board. The power board is doing the switching for the element (via well heatsinked fets) so I figure the three power board connectors are two for the element and one ground. The three to the logic board are obviously two for the thermocouple but there appears to be one extra sense line (which inside the handset PCB are marked as "Sense1" and "Sense2") - the sense2 goes to something that looks a bit like an electrolytic cap (no markings) but I think is maybe a mercury tilt switch to detect when the handset is left in the stand for a while. I didn't dig into it deeply as this was on a quick break from 'real work'.Didn't fully pull out the power board from the case but it's got a main PCB with all the usual suspects for a switchmode PSU (DIP chip, transformer, caps etc) and attached under that board assembly is a second 12v transformer (probably the logic supply) and a metal heatsink with 3 power devices on it; one of which I assume is the iron heating element control. It seems perhaps a touch over-complicated but no harm in that.Sorry that's not a very detailed exploration but it was a 5-minute job with the main intention of cutting the trace to the piezo which is pointless and annoying (it beeps repeatedly as you turn the iron and and it's coming up to temperature).I found my Kill-a-watt but it has developed some a fault (displays 60w with nothing connected) however the readings appear consistent with the KAW just having developed a 60W offset - with the iron plugged in and freshly turned on it displays 150W (dropping back to 60W when iron is up to temp). With the iron tip wedged into a large aluminum heatsink the KAW displays a value that oscillates +/-40w of "100w" (assuming 100w=40W in reality). This power draw is quite responsive to me removing the tip from the heatsink and replacing it (within ~2sec response time goes back to "60w" when removed from heatsink)Having just measured that I like this iron a bit more now. It's not junk.Not much to say about the user interface - you adjust the set temperature, that's about it. The * button doesn't do anything that I care about (I think it's for locking the temp so factory workers can't adjust it without some password or suchlike)Nothing much to complain about safety-wise; the jack socket is for an ESD strap. The aluminum case is also properly grounded. Everything securely mounted and heatshrinked, cables tied, etc.Top board is switching PSU, middle is heatsink for 3x power devices, bottom is separate transformer (a little odd) presumably for logic.The silver thing at the bottom of the case next to the transformer is a mains filter.Front panel/logic - no power devices. That's an Atmega8 on there. Curious what they would populate on the other half of this PCB - hot air controller maybe? The through-hole pins just above the 7805 regulator are for the cursed piezo beeper. Immediately after taking this pic one of the traces going to it had an intimate encounter with my exact-o-knife.Six pin connector to handpiece. Three go to logic board, three to power board.The gold component on the pcb (center) looks like an electrolytic (but unmarked) but is quite likely a tilt sensor based on how it's wired (gets it's own line to the logic board) to detect if iron is left in stand - didn't have time to dig into this. Some of the wires have a bit too much insulation trimmed but nothing really hairy (and it's all low voltage/isolated)Uses this tip arrangement- seems a reasonably good design, notice the thermocouple sticks right up inside the tip and the tip shaft has over an inch that gets snugly wrapped in the heating element.Oh and the supplied stand is reasonably nice - metal, pretty blue color, decent weight to it, comes with that "coiled metal shaving" type tip cleaner as well as a sponge. I believe the handset detects when it's left immobile for a while and gets powered down (pretty sure there's no magnet/hall effect thing going on to detect that it's actually in the supplied stand, I think it's just a mercury tilt switch in the handset)Image album:http://imgur.com/a/Wetd0

author: Samogon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2016, 07:11:33 pm
content: This peace of something was laps manufactured same as you did laps tear down