hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Help me figure out a couple of odd date codes (LSI Logic, Alps) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: nitro2k01
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2012, 02:22:53 am
content: Background: I'm preparing a project to categorize old brick Gameboys (The so called DMG-01) by manufacturing date serial number and a few other parameters. The project will be based on user-submitted input and to get an as accurate date as possible, I want to make accurate notes of all available date codes in every unit.This is an LSI RAM chip with marking D213. I've heard two theories.1) It simply means 92. This is consistent with the CPU, made in 9216. Only a couple of weeks apart.2) The first digits is a single digit year, starting at 0=80, 1=81, and then letters after 9, so A=90, B=91 and D=93. (In this theory, 213 would be MDD) If this is correct, the unit would be manufactured at least one year after the CPU. This makes less sense to me, but if that's the way it is, it is. Does anyone here know for sure how LSI did their date codes?Extended theory about the possible one year gap: Nintendo usually used Sharp brand RAM, since they also fabbed the CPUs. One possibility is that units where the RAM failed would be binned for later and have their RAM replaced.Another thing I need help with is the date codes on the custom Alps brand DC/DC converters. The month is marked with a red dot, and the year is printed in the silkscreen. What I'm wondering about now is what the things written after the year are. In particular, could the + mean "this board is assembled one year after the board was built"? So if they had a 96 vintage board lying around in 97, they would smack on a red dot next to the plus to mark that that was the case. The problem with this theory in this case is that 1997 is a tad late for a DMG to be built. (The next model, Gameboy Pocket was released in 1996.)Question is again, does anyone know how Alps marked their boards at this time? The problem with the later DMG boards is that the CPU chip is under a black epoxy blob to save money, so all of a sudden there's no date code to be gotten from the CPU.And if anyone wonders, I'm serious about this little geeky project to categorize Gameboys. Some people collect stamps or coins or read about World War II history. I do this.

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2012, 05:58:00 am
content: D213 might just simply mean Date (199)2 week 13. Makes more sense to me since it's 3 weeks apart from the CPU code.

author: nitro2k01
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2012, 06:20:09 am
content: Quote from: metalphreak on March 03, 2012, 05:58:00 amSure, that was my initial guess. Pretty pbvious.What I'm looking for now is if someone knows for sure.
Here are the hand soldered medium-high density board. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2016, 01:40:40 pm
content: M193v1 Specs:* Arduino Uno form factor* MCU: STM32F103CB or STM32L152CC* All pins broken out one way or another (incl. buttons, LED, USB and JTAG header)* Buttons on RESET and WAKE pins* LED on PC13 pin (weak drive capability = LED through FET)* Backup battery and RTC crystal* Switch-mode 12V-5V and 5V-3.3V converters for maximum efficiency* Dual USB jacks (native USB and USB-to-Serial adapter)* Bootloader mode jumper* 2.0mm JTAG header
heres a continuity tester dave jones would probably be proud of - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: williefleete
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2010, 10:51:12 am
content: after getting a few parts from dick smith electronics, a 5 pack of 555's and various coloured (and size) LED'si have made up an audible continuity tester using 2 of the good ole tripple fives, one as a pulse extender/debouncer and the other as a plain oscillatorthe first one acts as a fast monostable which keeps the output pulled high if the switch/device under test is making all sorts of noise while the probes are making contact and keeps the beeper reasonably stable and reduces the staticy sounding beep while responding to fast pulses and extending themthe other one is just a plain astable oscillator which is running fast enough to produce a tonehow it works:when the device under test (the push button) closes, it will remove the voltage from the trigger pin (pin2) triggering the first 555 and allowing the capacitor to charge and setting the output pin on applying voltage to the RESET pin (pin4) of the second triple 5 which starts the audio oscillator going, the output pin stays on until the trigger pin goes back up to supply voltage and the capacitor fully charges when the probes are released in which the reset pin goes zero, halting the audio oscillator triple 5 the beep staying on longer with the probes released with a larger capacitor or resistor, 100k resistor and a 1µF capacitor sets the debounce values nicelyperformance wise it will pick up short pulses on the probes and extends them to about a 50 - 100mS beep pulse, comparable to a good multimeter continuity tester.bonus features: you can use it to audiably test diodes and most LEDs and polarity, the probes are attached to the TRIGGER pin of the first 555 with a 10k pull up to 9 volts so it can be used to supply 0.9 mA which is enough to slightly light an LED to at least see what colour it glows and if it glows. and it also provides enough juice to test transistor and diode junctions and polarity, audibly beeping if the diode or C/B E/B junction is conductingonce i can find my card reader i will take some pictures of the unit but heres a schematic

author: timofonic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2015, 01:49:53 pm
content: Hello.I'm not able to see the schematic image in Tapatalk and the mobile.web browser. Are you attaching it in the forum or using an external URL? Despite Dave might hate it due to database space growing, I prefer the first approachI collected some forum threads about continuity testers:Continuity tester with glitch captureLatching continuity tester with an auto resetAdvanced continuity tester?Low-voltage, low-current continuity testerLooking for a specific continuity testerSimple ATTiny-based Contuinity Tester/MultimeterWhat is your ideal continuity tester?Regards.
Heres where you can get transformer laminations (USA) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: cur8xgo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2019, 12:05:32 am
content: This info is current as of today. Hopefully it can help out transformer experimenters!TempelFor EI-162 29 gauge M6, min order 44 lbs (660 pairs), $0.19 per pair.BONUS: Has will call office in Southern California you can pick them up at to save on shipping if you live nearby.Thomas and SkinnerFor EI-162 29 gauge M6, min order 95 lbs (1475 pairs), $0.20 per pair. Shipping roughly $180 via UPS.www.cwsbytemark.comHas laminations in stock you can order on their website apparently. Seems VERY expensive.https://www.cwsbytemark.com/www.edcorusa.comLooks like they have EI laminations from EI18 to EI150 on their website. I called and asked if they actually have them and will ship, they said yes.Pricing is great, almost like buying from Tempel. Even with shipping EI-150 is only $0.28 a pair for 857 pairs. Minimum looks like 12" of whatever lam you want.www.laminationspecialties.comStill waiting on a quote from these guys. Lots of people recommended them. Will update when I get it.Others:tcmetal: Says "They don't produce stamped products."polaris laser laminations: Only does stuff by drawing and cuts it out with laser. Very expensive. $5.48 a pair at 125 pairs for an EE roughly EI-162 sized.
Hewlett Packard Instrument Dating using serial numbers ?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2022, 02:12:15 pm
content: please see the comments of this videohttps://youtu.be/Z6Ge-2cr4rAas you see in the comments Pat M, was so kind to point out the serial system of HP instrumentsso of course I like to learn more about this,the missing gab 1950 to 1960 ??anyone with a relaiable dating info ?i see so many different ideas online.feel free share you wisdom on the video, or here, what ever you like.Why I like to know more about this : I get more and more HP instruments , i like to date them too

author: Decapitator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2022, 08:34:30 am
content: I've found that most instruments regardless of manufacturer will have multiple clues scattered throughout in the form of date codes on individual components within the device. Pots, switches, power semiconductors, IC's, tubes, capacitors (especially multi section twist tab types), circuit breakers and transformers are often dated. Sometimes you'll find a date rubber stamped right on a circuit board, chassis or case.

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2022, 08:59:21 am
content: sure, they will most likely use brans new ic's and transistors with date codes,CRT's are always marked, so that is easythis post was only about HP serial numbers, it is fun to see how close you get by normal forensic methodsversus looking up the serial number

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2022, 09:43:56 am
content: (Note: I have not watched the video, so the following might have been stated in there)As for the (early, LED) calculators, the serial number, even if it contains year/week, does *not* match the actual date of manufacture, consider it to be a "batch" or "revision" identifier. IC date codes are a much better clue in this case.
Hex Inverter behavior. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: kvresto
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2016, 01:05:45 pm
content: Hi Everyone.I'm assembling an output circuit for the first time as shown in the included pic, but I'm seeing some strange behavior. The pic shows R32 as a 33R resistor, but I actually have a 0R resistor installed at the moment. The other side of the FET is a led tied to 3.3V with a current limit resistor. The inverter is actually a TI SN74HC14DR.When OUTPUT2 is at 3.3V the led on the other side is turned ON. When OUTPUT2 is at 0V the led blinks OFF briefly and then is slowly turns back on. When I connect my DSO probe to pin 6, then instantly the led turns off. When I remove my DSO probe again the led turns on slowly until it gets to full brightness.Can anyone give me some direction as to what is going on. I'm thinking of swapping out the 0R for the 33R, as in the past this has improved other issues I've had, but I'm a bit confused in this case as to what is happening. Any help would be great.cheerskvresto

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2016, 01:25:13 pm
content: There's an LED in the text but no LED in the schematic, and no power pins shown on the logic device.Tim

author: kvresto
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2016, 01:28:39 pm
content: I certainly diiiiiiiiiiidddddd NOT!missed the groundHow embarrassing. Its now 12:24 am, I'm tired, time for a break I think.thanksalso thanks Tim. I know I haven't included everything in the drawing.
Hex inverter buffer mystery - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: CameronHanson20
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2015, 04:16:04 am
content: Hello everybody. I have designed a circuit that is supposed to turn on an led after a certain amount of time. The circuit as I have drawn it and excuse the poor handwriting, works exactly like I thought it would. I was trying to think of improvements on it and to reduce part count. So I took the output of my flip flop and bypassed it straight to the nand gate input or point B in the drawing, bypassing the hex inverters. Curiously enough, the circuit starts misbehaving and the output will immediately turn on as soon as power is applied. I noticed that when power is applied the 555 monostable will actually have a "hump" and this hump lasts for around 6ms and reaches a peak voltage of 1.3V but if you look at the circuit it shouldn't matter because the flip flop output is a 0, so the nand gate returns a logic 1, which then is inverted back into a 0 and the LED is off. Does anybody have any ideas on why bypassing those inverters causes it to misbehave?

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2015, 04:27:17 am
content: Make sure that all the inputs to the hex inverters are pulled high or low else you will get high frequency oscillations!

author: CameronHanson20
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2015, 04:39:07 am
content: Thank you moffy for your quick reply and yes you were absolutely correct, it did solve my problem. I guess when I started moving wires around I got a little careless and left some inputs floating. Now if you don't mind me asking, the hex buffer shares power and ground, correct? Do oscillations may their way back up and then interfere with other outputs?

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2015, 05:17:43 am
content: Yes through both the power supply and by parasitic capacitive coupling (the air). The edges are very fast. Ran across the same problem just recently. One of my links to an inverter input wasn't making contact.
Hey Dave, Do You Get a Cut? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: frostheave
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 08:00:54 pm
content: If I buy a EEVblog Brymen BM235 DMM from Amazon here in the USA, will Dave get a portion of the price? I'd like to buy it where it helps him.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 08:11:41 pm
content: If BM235 is EEVblog branded, he gets a cut, otherwise no.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 08:34:51 pm
content: Dave (EEVBlog) is the actual seller of these on Amazon US.

author: frostheave
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 08:43:06 pm
content: Ah yes, now I see that. Thanks.

author: MarkT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 09:34:56 pm
content: 0.01 ounces too - that makes it worth its weight in, well, some exotic platinum group metal perhaps...

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 09:49:20 pm
content: Yes, the weight is probably not correct.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2024, 03:06:17 pm
content: Dave's not short of a few bucks!

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2024, 03:08:24 pm
content: Quote from: SiliconWizard on February 04, 2024, 09:49:20 pmYou have missed the helium balloon that comes in the box.

author: The Doktor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2024, 03:19:44 pm
content: To the OP, I will say this is a decent multimeter. I purchased one a few years ago from Dave's Amazon store, and will note that besides the meter itself, the test leads it comes with are rather nice. About the only complaint I can come up with about this meter is the stand. When it is on the stand, it is not nearly as stable as my old Fluke 25.
HF Conducted emissions - Spectrum analyzer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mattko
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2019, 08:53:58 am
content: Hello,I'm doing pre compliance for conducted emissions and the measurements at high frequencies (80 MHz - 108 MHz) are lower, comparing to measurements done at a certified laboratory. From your experience, which things affect measurements at these frequencies?I tried the spectrum analyzer at the certified laboratory and it performed the same as their SA, so the problem should be in our test setup.I'm using a 12 V battery, 5uH LISN, short cables from LISN to DUT, GND plane under DUT (same distance to DUT), R&S SAAny ideas would be welcome!
HF linear amplifier and interference. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: davelectronic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 02:07:08 pm
content: Recently I have added a digital panel volt amp meter to a 10 Amp low voltage power supply. When using the HF transceiver the panel Amp Volt meter flashes and is iratic on the display. Although if I try a different load (halogen lamps) it's completely fine the panel Amp Volt meter reads clear accurate with no problems. Is there a solution to this problem, and if I use the transceiver with just 4 watts RF output, even that causes erratic panel meter display of the numerals. Would putting distance between the power supply and the HF transceiver / linear amplifier correct this problem ? The only thing is I wanted to avoid dropping voltage over a longer supply cable run, although I know keeping a decent wire gauge size would minimise any voltage drop. Any thoughts appreciated, thanks for reading.

author: iMo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 04:01:32 pm
content: Try with decoupling at the PSU's output terminals.CLC filtering is usually required.Ferrite toroids with 3-5 turns (10-100uH) and ceramic capacitors (10-100n).

author: TheMG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 04:29:54 pm
content: I'm assuming this is one of those inexpensive LED panel meters? My experience with them is they are usually extremely sensitive to RFI. Some decoupling/filtering at the input to the meter will be necessary.

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 06:31:23 pm
content: The ferrite bead is your friend. I have them all over the shack and no problems. Sometimes a few turns helps.

author: davelectronic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 07:30:16 pm
content: Yes it is the inexpensive Volts Amp panel meter. I usually use analogue panel meters for Voltage and Amps, with a shunt. But this time tried the little two colour digital panel meter. I don't have anything in the way of filtering to the meter, but can try an inductive capacitance filter, see if that stops it. Thanks for the help.
HF prototyping board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: chrisbrown
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2014, 10:10:14 pm
content: I like dead-bug prototyping, and do plenty of it. But I don't like how difficult it can sometimes be to replace components, and I HATE slicing copper clad by hand. So to make my life easier, and considering how little a 10x10cm board from China costs, I made this dead-bug breadboard. Figured I'd share it in case someone else finds it useful.http://imgur.com/a/sXVlxThe board measures 99.7 mm x 99.7 mm. The top layer has two independent power rails and ample grounding. The prototyping areas are sliced into .250" x .175" pads with 25 mil spacing. The bottom layer is a mostly-solid ground plane.There main prototyping area is composed of four ground-encircled quadrants of 20 pads each. Four smaller auxiliary areas near the edges can be used for off-board connections, voltage regulation, and constructing inexpensive wirewound scope probe jacks.For RF work, there are two dedicated footprints that accept standard vertical or right-angle BNC connectors, although most right-angle connector bodies will overhang past the board edge by about 1/3rd.If you want one, the attached zip file can be submitted directly to a board house. Add your own fab notes if required.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2014, 11:33:27 pm
content: Not a bad idea.Don't suppose those pads happen to be a standard capacitance too? (Even if not, once it's quantified it would be handy to use.)For a v2.0, I wonder if it would be practical to add pads via'd to an inner layer polygon for supply rows and such? Could add some SMT sections too (0.5 / 0.65 / 1.27 mm pitch pads in TSSOP / SO / QFP layouts), interspersed with the generic pad areas. Dead bug? Sure, why not, bugs die right-side-up too...Hard to say if there would be any one or few near-optimal layouts... pretty easy to go wild and then you have twenty gazillion breakouts to shuffle through!Tim

author: chrisbrown
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2014, 02:11:13 am
content: Yeah it was hard enough to decide on a general layout, nevermind potential features. I'd love to add SMT pads and internal layers and maybe an extra 10 or 20 cm on each side...Back of the envelope: pad capacitance is about 0.7pF on 1.6mm FR4 with a dielectric constant of 4.5. -> 2.2kOhms at 100MHz.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2014, 02:52:13 am
content: Yeah, nice ideaRe: smt - how about offsetting a row of pads by 1/2? That'd work for SOT-23 etc, some TO-xxx/DPAK, & similar packages.

author: chrisbrown
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2014, 08:02:56 am
content: QuoteGood idea, I'll definitely do that next time.Just got the boards back and they don't disappoint. Nearly as easy as a breadboard, and they work well above 100 MHz. Here's a basic 2 meter transmitter I'm working on:

author: theatrus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2014, 05:30:29 am
content: Looks good!
HF upconverter circuit question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: promach
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2019, 04:14:08 pm
content: What are the purposes of {L5, R5} , {C10, C11} , {R2, R4} inthis HF upconverter circuit?

author: iMo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2019, 05:36:16 pm
content: Such a mixer works best when it sees 50+0j ohm impedance on all its ports. The parts are there most probably to create a suitable impedance matching..
Hi-Amps Dummy Load - my take - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: erupter
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2012, 05:20:13 pm
content: Hi people.I have some current sensors laying around and I figure I better test them.But I don't have a decent power source.So I found out EEV's Dummy Load but it doesn't cut it in terms of power: way too small.My sensors are for 30~50 amps, I gotta test them with tens of amps.So I took pen and paper and started designing my own dummy load.It makes use of one of the same sensors it ought to test, you can find them atthis link here.These essentially output a voltage proportional to current with vcc/2 being zero amps.The circuit is powered by AC/DC, I figure +/-12 V is sufficient here and gives any opamp enough room.The idea is that on one side of the main opamp you select the current with a trimmer. The ratio is in the sensor datasheet but is inessential, just some math.The other side, the feedback loop, comes directly from the sensor.The opamp drives an array of mosfets mounted on heatsinks.What worried me is the transients when attaching or removing the supply under test.So I devised what you see in the scheme.First of all components are not what is shown on the scheme: I didn't take the time to search for real components, I just used the schematic symbols.So the 7805 is not a linear regulator, rather depicts the current sensor.The arrow Vcc is the circuit power supply, while the ball Vcc is the connection to the external supply to be tested.There is a shallow low-pass filter on the opamp output to the mosfets, to dampen spikes. But it's shallow anyway: leaves plenty of bandwidth (I figure something in the KHz range or maybe even 100Hz).The same opamp output is clamped to ground by an always-powered humble transistor T1. This is my security.But the base of this transistor is clamped to ground too by T2 when at the external input is applied power.There is a very low low-pass on this line as I want current to ramp up slowly when connecting.But I just figured that a simple bjt may fail if the external power doesn't have high enough a voltage to polarize it.So since the current sensor can be powered as high as 5V, I think the logic will run at 5V (apart from the opamps that can get 12V).So... with anything higher than 5V I'm sure the BJT will be polarized.Suggestions? Comments? Corrections?
Hi, i wish to design an HMI for saponification plant, i need some elaboration  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: nyame
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2019, 07:03:42 pm
content: Hi, Scope of the project is, i need to design an HMI that control a saponification plant. now the key function of the HMI is, it enable the operator to inputs the quantity of product he needs in a tank. for example if he requires 1000 gallons of water he will input the values in the HMI and press enter once the tank get 1000 gallons it will switch off automatically.the issue now is, the original file of the PLC is missing. so no documentation, but the wiring plan is there.i uploaded the file am using from the PLC. looking at it, i noticed real world outputs in ladder 5. but most of the inputs, registers were used. when i look at the input data file i see some inputs on but i cant locate them on the ladder diagrams.now the help i need is , how to locate the real world inputs on the ladder logic diagrams !how to identify instructions that were used in the ladder diagram to the HMI to enable the operator perform those functions !
Hidden Displays / Indicators in Products - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: randyyork
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 14, 2019, 08:40:20 pm
content: I've seen some products that manage to hide LED indicators or small displays within the product enclosure. When turned off, the LEDs completely disappear into the product. I believe in certain configurations these are also called dead front displays.Couple of random examples:I was curious if anyone has any insights into how these can be produced? Do any films / plastic materials exist that can help hide displays on dark enclosures?I know Apple worked hard to explore microperforations for LED indicators in aluminum laptop enclosures.Thanks very much!

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2019, 09:02:25 pm
content: It's mostly a matter of creating the right layering of masking and translucent materials. One of the biggest tricks is to avoid having any colored tint to the materials (different to the surrounding areas, I mean), and having the internals be dark or hidden behind a smokey layer, so that incident light doesn't reflect out of the indicator area, but the colored light from the LEDs can shine through. You also want to avoid having diffusion in the top layer, as this can scatter incident light and betray the underlying opening. It's easiest to accomplish when you can design it into a custom injection molding or set of printing steps on mass manufactured devices. In low volumes, you'd probably want to talk to an overlay manufacturer about how best to create the mask layer, and if you have multiple indicators close together you'll need to design in some sort of partitioning to keep one from bleeding into the next.
HIDPanel: Make your own HID Control - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: profdc9
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2023, 02:32:56 am
content: Hello,I am working on a project for gaming where you can build your own gamepad, plugging in buttons, switches, joysticks, rotary encoders, rotary potentiometers, linear potentiometers, etc. and then program them to press keys and/or do gamepad movements. This is for games where the controls are complex (like EmptyEpsilon) and you want to have single buttons or separate controls for particular movements in the game. The device appears as a USB keyboard, USB gamepad, and USB serial port, and you program it by sending it serial port commands, and then it will send the appropriate keyboard or gamepad commands in response to motions on the gamepad.You can check out the project here:http://www.github.com/profdc9/HIDPanelHere's a picture of the device with some of the modules plugged into it:

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2023, 01:05:27 pm
content: OP please préciser your meaning of HIDHID is acronym forHigh Intensity Discharge lamps and ballastsHID is also a USA electronic lock/ acess firm,https://www.hidglobal.com/solutions/access-control-systemsPlease explain exactly what HID means in this,threadMany thanksJon

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2023, 01:09:36 pm
content: HID == human interface device.In this case, it’s also referring to the USB HID class, which is the big umbrella class of USB drivers for input devices and the like. (Your USB keyboard and mouse, for example, are USB HID class devices.)
High(ish) frequency bootstrap circuit for high side switching - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Dmeads
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2019, 02:59:29 am
content: Hello!I watched this video on high side switching with a bootstrap configuration for an NMOS. the attched pic is my circuit.Problem is, with such a big cap, it cant switch the load fully off at frequencies above ~50HzI tried smalled caps and got better results, but then the load (light bulb) didnt fully turn on. (maybe smaller cap didnt charge to high enough voltage?)How can i increase the switching frequency to say maybe 100KHz?

author: brabus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2019, 09:08:02 am
content: The MOSFET Input Charge plays a major role in defining the minimum capacity required for the Bootstrap.The Bootstrap diode is also quite critical; most drivers integrate a synchronous switch.100 kHz is in any case an ordinary frequency, you should manage it without needing to go for a charge pump circuit.Can you elaborate a bit more on your circuit? Which components have you used?

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2019, 09:57:07 am
content: It's not the capacitor which is limiting the upper frequency. It only limits the maximum on time, which is proportional to the capacitor size.The 10k pull-up resistor is limiting the current to the MOSFET gate, which acts as a capacitor. The extra RC circuit, slows down the switching speed.Another transistor is required to quickly turn the MOSFET on.I'd recommend using a high side MOSFET driver IC, which will have other features such as undervoltage lockout, which will prevent turn the MOSFET off if the voltage on the bootstrap capacitor is too low to keep it hard on. Without undervoltage lockout, the MOSFET will get hot and overheat, if the voltage on the bootstrap capacitor is low and the driver keeps it on, as it will be in the linear region, with a high current and volt drop across it. There are plenty of high side driver ICs. Here's one I found by doing a quick Google for high side MOSFET driver.IR2127PBFhttps://docs-emea.rs-online.com/webdocs/0791/0900766b807910ad.pdf
High(ish) voltage H-bridge - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: LukeW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2015, 07:45:42 am
content: Please have a look at this and let me know what you think.This is only the "power end" of the motor driver... there will be a microcontroller, quadrature decoder etc making up the servo loop, but they'll be on another board.It would be nice to specify the system for a maximum usable input voltage of 100 volts, but in practice I'll probably never need to drive it that fast, so it will only be likely to be used at around 60 volts.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2015, 12:37:01 pm
content: Why would you high-side sense? That's just got trouble written all over it...Also, 105V absolute maximum on the LTC6101HV, you aren't going to get by over 75V for any kind of reliability.IR2104S is pretty weak, so don't expect the 10 ohm resistors to do much (the driver is internally something like 30 ohms?). Likewise, don't try to force those transistors very hard (expect switching times in the 300ns range!).Make sure the driver grounds are very close to the low side FETs, and stray inductance is low throughout. Put C3 as near to the bridge as possible.Tim

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2015, 02:46:02 pm
content: Remember to use very good (low inductance) DC link capacitors as neas to the fets as possible. Keep the switch loop physically small: fets close to each other, with the capacitors as near as possible.Don't fear adding snubbers - even a relatively small snubber (with very little dissipation) may do wonders if you have a ringing problem. Ramp up the voltage&current and scope the switch node. For example, I was able to damp 60% overshoot voltage (60 MHz ringing) down to something like 20% in a synchronous buck converter by only sacrificing about 0.1% of efficiency.

author: LukeW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2015, 06:01:06 pm
content: I'm high-side sensing at the moment because the '6101 is a high side device... I might have a look around a bit more for a low-side alternative. This would probably deal with the voltage rating challenge of the current amplifiers, too.IR sell a whole family of different switch driver ICs, (as well as other vendors) but I haven't had a good look through all the similar ones yet to see if there's a good choice superior to the IR2104. Any recommendations?The series gate resistors are mainly just there to leave the option open on the PCB layout - they could be just populated with 0 ohms, in all likelihood, but it's easier to solder a 0R resistor then it is to hack up the board with a xacto knife to try and graft a series SMD resistor into a tight space where no space was designed into the layout.
High Accuracy Thermocouple Card - PCB Reveiw - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2019, 04:53:40 am
content: Building an expandable thermocouple logger with as high a final accuracy as I can manage, starting with 12 channels, but may need to expand out to 48 channels later,I'm not as familiar with the micro volt world and very low voltage ADC measurements, So felt I would post this up to see if anything obvious needs fixing, the goal is for the PCB to not be the limiting factor of this set up, they will plug into a back plane PCB that will let me swap in / out with other existing modulesThe spacing between the boards is 12mm which ends up leaving a 1.3mm gap for this particular PCB, would it be worthwhile adding a foam strip along the board to cover the active electronics and fill most of that gap?There are other devices out there that can do this, but for the price, It will end up being more convenient with my own hardware as I can use the same hardware with other cards
High amperage limiting - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: awwende
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2012, 11:45:19 pm
content: I'm working on a power supply to simulate the solar panels on a cube satellite at my university. The project is similar to Dave's power supply using a microcontroller in the power supply to limit the current based on the satellite's orbital path. The power supply will output 2.2V at about 9A of current. Does anyone know of an adjustable current limiting IC that can adjust 0-9A?

author: amspire
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2012, 11:59:53 pm
content: You can basically use a circuit just like Dave's. It is possible to parallel devices like the LT10180 or LM317 by adding a small resistor in series with each output, so you can get up to 9A that way. Better still, if you look at the LM317 data sheets, you will see circuits for the addition of a boost transistor to a single LM317 that would increase the output current to 9A.Then for the current limit circuit, you just have to decrease the resistance value to 10 times lower then Dave's current sense resistor.If you use a circuit that allows for the output voltage to go down to 0V out (with a LM317, this means having a negative supply so you can take the control pin down to -1.25V), then you could program a microcontroller to mimic the volt-amps characteristics of a particular solar panel.Richard.

author: qno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2012, 04:31:14 pm
content: The problem is the 2.2 volts.LM317 designs wil not work.You need Mosfet type of pass element but 2.2V is not enough to control the gate.You can convert the voltage to 5 or 12 volts for your control circuit.You can use a Hall sensor as current sensor.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2012, 04:44:26 pm
content: Quote from: awwende on January 30, 2012, 11:45:19 pmThat seems like a very inconvenient power supply configuration. The high current at low voltage coupled with voltage drops and associated inefficiencies is going to result in a poor quality and inconvenient energy source.Is there no option to reconfigure the solar panels to produce a higher voltage at lower current, for example 11 V at 1.8 A? I think this potentially would offer greater operating efficiencies and make it easier to deliver power at the point of need.
High bandwidth fiber connection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ezalys
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2017, 10:09:26 pm
content: Hey everyone!Would anyone be able to explain the basics of using photodiodes and fiber coupled lasers in a design? I've noticed that most lasers are sold in TO packs... but how do you couple these TO packs to an FC terminated fiber? I've noticed a few niche websites that sell pigtailed diode lasers and such, but no straight combination of parts from digikey or mouser seem to meet what I'm looking forUltimately what I want is a small; pc board mountable diode laser and pc board mountable photodiode with FC or SMA or whatever fiber connection with which I can get a gigahertz of analog bandwidth. I want optics not for distance, but for galvanic isolation... so I'm looking for a distance of perhaps 5 meters or so. Perhaps an LED would be okay!

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2017, 10:15:21 pm
content: Can't you buy this commercially made? (for use with Ethernet or similar)

author: jbb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2017, 10:34:32 pm
content: Hi thereMaybe the Avago / BroadcomAFBR-1310Zwould be somewhere to start?Quick question: do you need DC - 1GHz or some MHz - 1GHz? I think DC-1GHz will be difficult to do.

author: ezalys
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2017, 10:40:52 pm
content: Oh definitely some MHz up to 1 GHz. I saw that part but was also curious about how all these other parts fit together and where to get them. Like the TO packs and FC receptacles and all that.

author: ahbushnell
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2017, 11:14:48 pm
content: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=AFBR-1310Z

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2017, 01:59:51 am
content: Use this?https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_form-factor_pluggable_transceiverAre you set on FC? LC seems friendlier to me, they do make inter-connector cables.
high clock rate data logger with a slow uC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Ferroto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2009, 01:30:31 am
content: I've been thinking of making a data logger nothing too fancy.One of the problems I quickly noticed is that a 4mhz or even a 20mhz uC wouldn't cut it if I wanted to analyze say the bus going between my cpu and the northbridge (FSB) so I said to myself how could I build a data logger with the ability to record at such high clock rates but not requireing expensive FPGA'sThe solution I'm considering is to use an SRAM chip, a binary counter to cycle through addresses 0x00 and 0xff and an array of AND gates to detect when 0xff is being transmitted and stop the binary counter by holding the CLK line low (assuming it transmits the address byte when CLK is low otherwise invert the last AND gate) Then the uC then holds down the bin counter' CLR line essentially disabling it and then the AND gates switch off re-enabling the address bus except the SRAM is in read mode without the bin counter active, then the uC could read the information at it's own clock rate by feeding it the address lines and receiving what's stored on the datalines.I also included the schematic as a PDF and the absense of a uC is because this is a hierarchy block but all the control lines are in the upper left.

author: jahonen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2009, 10:38:11 am
content: What is your target clock rate? Some observations based on the schematic:Don't forget that ACT08 has a propagation delay of something like worst case up to 10 ns, typically 5 ns however. So it takes 40 ns worst case from address settling to asserting the halt signal. That will severely limit your maximum clock rate not much more that you can obtain with high clockrate MCU.Also since the 4020 is a ripple counter, it takes quite a while for the clock edge to propagate through the outputs. That will also reduce the max clock rate.Why not use for example asynchronous FIFOfor the capture memory, it makes your job much easier?Regards,Janne

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 30, 2010, 08:17:14 am
content: you really need to understand what your dealing with here a uC is no match for the 0.1-1.6 GHz signals of todays FSB's

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 30, 2010, 12:31:34 pm
content: Aren't FSB's on modern computers like close to the GHz region? Is this what you are talking about?Any way you look at it what you really need here is high end logic analyzer. Not to mention the probing which is serious business at those clock rates.I hate to say it, but if you are asking this sort of question on a forum then your chances of getting something DIY working at these sorts of clock rates is going to be next to impossible.BTW, the term "data logger" usually implies a fairly low sample rate system.Dave.
high cri led lamp - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: daniel444
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2019, 06:01:01 am
content: just posting my lamp designuses a bridgelux 93cri 3500k cob ledChinese boost driver 52v maxunprotected 18650 batteries in seriesphysical switch 16Amp , no parasitic drainvoltmeter to monitor battery voltage , the protected batteries dont fit in these smd battery holders , and i dont like buying them so the voltage needs to be monitored3mm x 50mm aluminum flat barit runs 5 to 10wattsbent the aluminum with a blowtorch otherwise it is not a smooth bend, it requires clamping in a holder , can be bent by hand without blowtorchhardwood basei wish they made a boost driver that has built in dimming potentiometer , and a selectable battery cut off voltage
High current (50A) connector, wire to PCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dmg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2017, 04:50:01 pm
content: Hi,I'm designing a current meter, that will measure currents up to 35 A continuous, 50A peak (normally the load will be around 20 to 30A). The sensor I'm going to use is one of the Allegro ACS series ones that measure current in-series with the load through an isolated on-chip conductor with a hall-effect sensor, and I need a way to cost-effectively and reliably connect the input wire to the PCB with the sensor. Cost is important, so I thought about a ring terminal crimped to the wire and bolted through the PCB with a locking/spring washer, and even though I'm going to use High-Tg FR4 and thick copper for the PCB I'm not sure if that will be reliable, as the PCB will accomodate to the bolt and eventually lose contact pressure over time, and I'm not sure if an spring washer compensates for that. Do you know any proven, reliable way to do such a connection? The sensor will work inside a hermetically sealed case and needs to work almost 24/7 for extended periods of time. It must use a connector, soldering is not an option.I'm going to use standard FASTON series connector for the outputs (the meter services several loads, each of them < 15A peak, the output bifurcates). I'm also planning to themally couple one NTC at the input and one at the output connectors, so that if things go wrong and the connectors start heating up the sensor can signal the load controller to stop them.Thanks in advance for your help

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2017, 05:35:16 pm
content: there are connectors used for drones and other high-current stuff called XT60 that would probably fit the bill.https://www.banggood.com/search/xt60.html

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2017, 05:42:28 pm
content: How about using multiple wires and a very common connector like the one used for pci express video cards?Mini Fit Jr. series from Molex (which is the one used in computer power supplies) is rated for 9A per pin or something like that.. an 8 pin mini fit jr connector with 8 awg16 wires should have low enough resistance and ability to handle 50A for reasonable lengths of time.

author: fcb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2017, 06:02:24 pm
content: I've used loads of "pin-plates" from Wurth. Theyve rebranded them "red cube":http://www.we-online.comhttp://katalog.we-online.com/en/em/browse/redcube_terminals

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2017, 06:09:16 pm
content: This is a German vendor of hardware that may fit your needs:https://www.ettinger.de/de/product/search#180/ART_GRUPPE=48&ART_BAUART=POWER

author: Neomys Sapiens
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2017, 10:42:00 pm
content: Quote from: fcb on December 15, 2017, 06:02:24 pmYup. the new ones consist of a Pin crimped (or even soldered?) to a lead and a part on the PCB, into which it locks but is releasable without tools.
high current buck-boost converter? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: justanothercanuck
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2013, 02:21:45 pm
content: Hi, I'm trying to find an adjustable voltage, high-current dc-dc buck-boost converter, but I can't seem to find any... They gotta be out there somewhere.What I need is something that can take 3.3v to 4.2v input and output 3.7v to ~15v, and be able to deliver up to 7a of current. (~90 watts before efficiency losses)I had a go with Mouser and Digikey, but couldn't find anything compatible. Even tried TI's website, and they only go up to 8v before even looking at the current output.Does anyone know where I could find such a chip? Thanks