Multimeter Advice - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Bciceksoy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 11, 2016, 05:48:24 pm
content: Hello guys, I am currently using UNI-T 33D multimeter. I have been using it for about 2 years and it is kinda not enough for me now. I want to buy a new digital multimeter. Approximately, I have 140$ budget. So, I have watched Dave's videos about Multimeters but I can't find all kinds of brands in my county and they are a bit more expensive here. If we subtract taxes or other etc. I got around 120$. I have looked at so far these;http://www.direnc.net/UNI-T-UT71A,PR-18457.htmlhttp://www.direnc.net/UNI-T-UT70C-DIGITAL-MULTIMETRE,PR-20064.htmlhttp://www.direnc.net/Holdpeak-Auto-Range-Dijital-Multimetre-HP-760-D,PR-23889.htmlhttp://www.direnc.net/MS8229,PR-18477.htmlHere is a one online seller which I always shop:http://www.direnc.net/Dijital-Multimetre,LA_461-2.html#labels=461-2I know Dave don't like UNI-T very much but I want it to be functional. We have fluke 107 here around 115$ but it hasn't got inductor measurement etc. functions. My priority buying a multimeter which also reads inductance. I dont want to spend money again for RLC meter but I see that, the pricy meters hasn't got any inductor. I got some points on Dave's videos and these are; current should be micro amps, capacitance min. should be around 2-40nF, larger the frequency measurement is the better and around 20mV min. range for DC and AC. By the way, I am studying Electrical-Electronics Engineering so that I want to buy a decent one. I will not use this for just measure rough measurements.(Note: Sorry for the website I shared, it is a Turkish website)Thank you guys in advance.

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2016, 10:28:00 pm
content: There is a ton of these types on ebay around $ 10 - $ 15 US.http://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-12864-LCD-Transistor-Tester-meter-Diode-Triode-Capacitance-LCR-ESR-Meter-/271839788857?hash=item3f4ae9ff39:g:36cAAOSwEeFVLp6bRegards, Dana.

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2016, 10:29:40 pm
content: Or this -http://www.sillanumsoft.org/ZRLC.htmhttp://www.daqarta.com/dw_0o0z.htmNote for the OpAmp buffered version their outputs should have diode clamps so that inputsto sound card are limited.http://www.daqarta.com/dw_0all.htmRegards, Dana.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2016, 11:14:24 pm
content: Don't try to look for too many features packed in one multimeter it's painful.How about getting something like a Uni-T 61E (~$50) multimeter and a DER EE DE-5000 (~$100) LCR meter (make sure you get all the cables with it).That is about the best way to spend $150 in my opinion. They both have serial interfaces as well. Check out the specs.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2016, 11:36:32 pm
content: Quote from: Shock on April 11, 2016, 11:14:24 pm+1Regarding the second DMM, the UT139C has better protections than the UT61E, so it would be a better choice if the OP wants to work with mains voltages as well as low voltage IMHO (seen the UT139C for ~$40 - $42 shipped).

author: Bciceksoy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 02:55:59 pm
content: Thank you guys for such good answers.Quote from: nanofrog on April 11, 2016, 11:36:32 pmI will consider this. They all measure C and R anyway. I just wanted to measure L also. I don't want to sepend another 50$ for measuring L. Maybe I won't be needing measuring inductor that much. Or I might but it when i really need.UT139C is 6000 digit, is it good? or should i give more and take for example 20000 counts or someting?

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 03:19:07 pm
content: If you aren't sure that you need to measure inductance, then don't worry about it. Spend the money on getting a good multimeter and later if you need better component measurement capabilities you can't go wrong with the DER EE DE-5000 as mentioned.The UT139C would be one of my choices for a $50 range multimeter. The UT61E is popular and offers some other features but as mentioned again it has very poor input protection and can be damaged rather easily.If you can manage the extra cost I would suggest that you but the BM235 from Dave or a BM257S. The BM257S can be purchased for $135 and it won't disappoint you.

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 04:10:06 pm
content: I have a couple of different meters, some crap (hardware store stuff) and some nicer units. My go to meter is a Bryman 257S even though I have a nicer Bryman with a higher count and more features. For serious cap and inductor measurements I have a DER EE DE-5000 that I picked up for a $100 out of Japan. I ordered a second set of alligator clips with the box and modified them with a pair of kelvin connectors that I bought with the wires attached from Ebay. It's worked out great.For your needs a Bryman 257S would meet your needs and if you really want to measure inductors the get a DMM 5000 and you'll have some nice and safe test equipment.

author: MrSlack
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 04:17:41 pm
content: I use a UT61E for low energy stuff. A UT61C as a thermometer/ammeter and an ancient and knackered Fluke 77 for mains stuff.ALL of them added together cost under your budget(and a couple of UT33's floating around the car/house as well)

author: Bciceksoy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 04:20:24 pm
content: Okay then, I might buy a RLC meter(probably DER EE DE-5000) when I need it. So, I will focus on good input protection and precision then. The problem is I am not able to order above 85$ from ebay or amazon. There is a money limit that we can not exceed which is 75 euro about 85$. I might buy a 80$ from ebay or I can buy from my country. If I can find the MM I need I can afford up to 135$. That is why I am kind of stuck in the middle. There are limited brands and models here, not couple brands are being selled here but not all of them either. I think I found a seller which sells BM257S. I will check it out. By the way, what about Holdpeak HP-760 D? Is it good quality? I am also looking all multimeters with a doubt. Because on Dave's videos i saw some UNI-T and other brands' continuity test is really bad. You have to wait almost 1sec to get it and some even not latchedI would consider getting UT70C but its current 80mA lowest. My UT33D has got even 2mAThen I saw UT61E which is cheaper and lowest: 80mV - 220uA - 22nF - 10Hz-220MHz. Is it good quality and mostly I am wondering that has it good continuity test? If I can find I will look for UT61C (Thanks MrSlack)Actually I am not dealing with 36V DC / 12V AC or higher. Maximum, sometimes, I measure AC mains(220V) to test the cable and some circuitry. I won't be measuring above 220V.Thanks again for the responses

author: MrSlack
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 04:23:01 pm
content: Continuity test is fast on my UT61E. The bundled probes are chromed shit though. I don't use them, preferring Pomona minigrabber leads as I don't have to keep hold of anything then. You can rub the tips with very fine sandpaper to get a better response with the provided probes.

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 04:28:01 pm
content: A good DMM comparison table here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/multimeter-spreadsheet/

author: Bciceksoy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 04:31:25 pm
content: Quote from: MrSlack on April 12, 2016, 04:23:01 pmDo you know UT61C's continuity test is same as UT61E? I might consider C version because it has temperature. I can get another probes don't worryThanks againQuote from: lpc32 on April 12, 2016, 04:28:01 pmI will check it out, thanks man

author: MrSlack
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 04:37:39 pm
content: I just tried it and it seems the same poking at my scope chassis.UT-61C has a backlight as well which may or may not be useful. I can't say I've used it yet.

author: Bciceksoy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 05:43:09 pm
content: All right. What about UT71X series? Do you guys know how good their continuity test and quality is?

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 06:57:04 pm
content: Can I suggest that instead of asking to be spoon fed that you could do a search here for some of these questions? They have been answered many times.

author: Bciceksoy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 09:00:34 pm
content: The reason I am asking you guys because I don't trust other forums. They all have mixed reviews. I am of course using uncle google but additional information always better.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 09:19:33 pm
content: Quote from: Bciceksoy on April 12, 2016, 02:55:59 pmKeep in mind, DMM's aren't the best tool for measuring L or C. For this, you'd do a lot better buying an LCR meter instead (even with R, a DMM tends to have a smaller range than an LCR meter).Quote from: Bciceksoy on April 12, 2016, 02:55:59 pm6000 counts is enough for most anything, so don't get hung up on high counts.So I'd recommend focusing your attention to a good meter (and an inexpensive LCR if you must have one now, such as the PCB w/ display linked above). For meters, Brymen is both well made and an excellent value for what you get.And given your location, I'd suggest checking outTME.eurather than eBay or Amazon for as much as possible (they're a Brymen distributor, as well as a lot of other products). FWIW, they're located in Poland.eBay would be fine for a UT139C, as it's under $50.As per specific models, there's a very good chance another forum memberhere, has already covered it (review & teardown), so use the search feature at the top left of every page.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 12, 2016, 09:21:50 pm
content: Quote from: Bciceksoy on April 12, 2016, 09:00:34 pmSome of your questions have been answered many times here!

author: ProAce
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2016, 05:08:46 am
content: Quote from: Bciceksoy on April 12, 2016, 05:43:09 pmI have UT71A at work. Its continuity is very slow and the quality is nothing to brag about.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2016, 07:48:47 am
content: Quote from: Bciceksoy on April 12, 2016, 05:43:09 pmI have 2x Uni-71D.Accuracy is ok but some people report drifting, can be re-calibrated. Same temp probe showed a 2 degree difference between my meters.Continuity is slightly slow but there is sort of a few workarounds to make it faster such as changing the count and measurement range. The multimeter leads came with a somewhat insulating coating on the tips still haven't bothered to figure this out as I used my fluke leads. But this seems to affect speed as well.Light only comes on for max 30 secs but it has a really good backlight. Really not the best safety for 240v mains work. Some of the later ones came with different fuses.Stand is not great and could be wider and longer, you can always make something to overcome this though. Rubber is built into the meter casing.Has USB/Serial and also the 71D has a long internal logging. Is good for electronics use. I paid about $70 for mine on clearance, was more worth it due to the price.Lightages has posted a mod on the input protection.

author: Bciceksoy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 13, 2016, 12:36:27 pm
content: Quote from: ProAce on April 13, 2016, 05:08:46 amOK, continuity is important to me. Then I will cross over the UT71X series.Thank you Shock and ProAce for such good answers.I will do some more research on UT171X series then. It is out of my bugdet line very much but if they are good I might consider it