hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Heater wire coating materials - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bitwelder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2025, 11:22:01 am
content: I might need to replace the wire coating for the heater chip of my 3d-printer (Qidi Q1 pro)so I'm trying to understand what's the correct material to order.1. The woven white sleeves for the short wires that end on the ceramic chip should be Fiberglass, right?2. Then, there whole area where these short wires are spliced with the cable that brings to a connector is covered with something that looks like heat-shrunk tubing, but it feels a bit thicker and more 'plasticky' than the typical heat shrink tubing I'm used to. Is it some special variety?

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 03, 2025, 11:31:57 am
content: Probably silicone coated fibreglass tubing. It is much nicer than the non-coated stuff which will likely make you very itchy after touching it.

author: bitwelder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2025, 08:07:11 am
content: Quote from: Kean on July 03, 2025, 11:31:57 amYeah, the softness feels like silicone. From quick googling I see that it is just a sleeve, and it does not heat-shrink.Anyway, it seems I won't be in a hurry to fix the heater myself, Qidi support is sending me a new hotend
3d printed circuit board using solder - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mendip_discovery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2024, 09:47:39 pm
content: You might need to shuffle a bit but, yes there is a new project Binky update.https://youtu.be/Fy2_CUBz40A?si=Z8OO8Ux1cW8XtoCpThey make a 3d printer and print solder.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2024, 11:04:30 pm
content: This got recommended to me by almighty YT algorithm. While it is cool way to dick around in the shop, this is not going to last in the actual car. This board either needs to be coated in heavy coat of epoxy/polyurethane or it will flake off in a few short months of being exposed to the air.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2024, 11:21:33 pm
content: Someone beat you to it:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/ive-never-seen-a-circuit-board-made-like-this/

author: Mouse69
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2024, 11:13:54 am
content: I've never seen someone desolder with an angle grinder either.Great project, from a great pair of guys

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2024, 12:29:08 pm
content: Quote from: ataradov on October 26, 2024, 11:04:30 pmI get nowadays so many of these, pushed to my feed forcefully. They are obvious clickbaits with no real content behind them, appearing on my feed for weeks. Meanwhile channels that I'm actually subscribed to, they don't appear.Manipulation at it's finest.
3D Ambient Temperature - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Lindley
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2021, 05:03:22 pm
content: Hi,Using our Ender 3 printer in a small outside workroom that has Micro monitoring the ambient temperature and also connected to a smoke alarm which feeds back to the PC in the house.While using PLA/+ and PETG filament any suggestions as to the Minimum and Maximum ambient temperatures before heating or cooling needs to be switched on ?

author: RAWebb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2021, 01:13:12 am
content: As I understand it, the ideal environmental temperature in the vicinity of the print is around 20C below Tg (glass transition temperature) with lots of air flow onto the print (at that same temperature). That combination of temperature and active cooling typically yields the best results in terms of print quality and minimal warping.Regular PLA with a Tg of around 55C will print nicely at 35C ambient and lots of cooling air. It will do okay at lower temperatures and moderate air flow, in part because PLA tends to have a higher heat capacity than many other filaments (more energy transfer per degree temperature change). At 20C there will probably be some minor corner lifting but not the massive warping and layer delamination typical of, e.g., ABS printed in a too cold environment. That's why open frame printers do so well with PLA.PETG varies but a Tg of 80C is typical, so an ideal chamber temperature would be around 60C. However, PETG is significantly more flexible than either PLA or ABS and so can withstand a lower environment (even room temperature) without significant warping assuming that the stars are properly aligned. A shielded but not necessarily fully enclosed chamber helps a lot.Heat removal from the cold end also plays a part. If the filament softens in the feed tube then a cold end jam is all but certain. How well a given extruder assembly performs at keeping the incoming filament rigid until it reaches the melt pool in the nozzle is a major factor in how well the printer will perform at elevated chamber temperatures. Printing PLA at 35C ambient may be ideal once the filament leaves the nozzle but that may be too hot for some home/hobby setups to handle without jamming.

author: Kimberly Snider
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 03, 2024, 10:34:26 am
content: The ideal ambient temperature in the region of the print is around 20 degrees Celsius below Tg (glass transition temperature), with plenty of airflow over the print (at the same temperature).EDIT: Illegitimate account banned for spamming. Spam URL removed from profile.
heat resistant  resin prints for automotive engine bays  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: glenenglish
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2024, 09:13:41 pm
content: Are there any resins suitable for encasing electronics in automotive engine bays ?IE :rigid125deg C operating temperatureself extinguishing when subject to gasoline fireyoungs at least 1 GPa, tensile at least 30 MPa at operating temperatureCTE less than 20....chemically resistant to kerosine /cleaning solventsasking too much ? no substitute for a milled block of aluminium ?!

author: varjag
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2024, 07:05:41 pm
content: Have a look into BASF RG 9400: rigid, high temp and UL V-0 rating. A bit fussy in prep.Henkel Loctite could have offerings like that but haven't used their products in a while.

author: glenenglish
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2024, 08:18:44 pm
content: thanks very much- just what I was looking for

author: varjag
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2024, 08:42:53 pm
content: Make sure to read their handling guide. It's has to be "thawed" if it sits longer than a couple days, or you get hard slush out of the bottle.
Adding text to step file - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2024, 02:52:24 pm
content: I'm making a custom keypad using Omron B3F-1050 momentary push button switches. I can order the caps from Omron, however I would like to label the caps, so will most likely 3D print them.I have an older Prusa MK2, and the slicer software does allow addition of embossed text but I would prefer to embed the text into each the step file for each cap. Make a library of key caps.I can manipulate step files in Altium so if I had just the embossed text as a step file I could add it to the existing step file for the cap.I'm using an old version of Altium 13.3 and Win 7.Is there a free text to embossed text 3D step file generation tool available?

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2024, 06:50:55 pm
content: - - Right tool for the job - -If you're going to create 3D objects, you don't use a slicer and you don't use a tool for laying out PCBs.You need a 3D-CAD program. I use FreeCAD but there are others out there (some you will need to purchase).Here is a teaser tutorial in FreeCAD:'MangoJelly Solutions' has many other tutorials on his channel.Be careful which version of FreeCAD he is using in the tutorial (not all use the same version) because FreeCAD has dramatically changed over its development lifespan.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2024, 04:00:41 am
content: The gentleman also did a video for modifying STEP and STL files.
Is BASF claim that Ultrafuse PLA PRO1 filament is stronger then printed ABS true - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dragon5
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2024, 09:41:35 pm
content: I was just about to order BASF Ultrafuse PLA PRO1https://forward-am.com/material-portfolio/ultrafuse-filaments-for-fused-filaments-fabrication-fff/engineering-filaments/ultrafuse-pla-pro1/when I noticed BASF has another newer material listed (last) on their engineering line website called Ultrafuse PLA Toughhttps://forward-am.com/material-portfolio/ultrafuse-filaments-for-fused-filaments-fabrication-fff/engineering-filaments/ultrafuse-pla-tough/.They claim both are stronger then printed ABS and have been more detailed for the "Tough" here are some quotes:* impressive impact strength – 720% higher than standard PLA* 133% stronger than printed ABSThis all sounds very good. I just wonder if there is a catch. The price seems quite OK too.I wonder how will this PLA compare to regular PETG.The "Tough" version has a datasheet from 2023 and the PRO1 from 2020 with less content.PRO1 comes in Black,White,Gray while Tough is only Natural and Black (and that is fixed in the datasheet).Also there is no "buy material" button and internet search returns very little mostly small distributors which often have changed from PRO1 to Tough by mistake.

author: aeberbach
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2024, 11:33:06 pm
content: There are a few youtube videos I see in a quick search. I'm not going to watch them for you but maybe someone has tested? Some seem to be from individuals not resellers.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2024, 01:13:16 am
content: From CNC kitchens impact testing: Regular PLA 5, PETG ~9, ASA ~18, polymax PLA+ ~19BASF claims 33 and 10 depending on the orientation on the first link. That may or may not be in an annealed state.You might want to specify what your use case is. TPU can be incredibly tough, but may be too flexible.https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/comparing-pla-petg-amp-asa-feat-prusamenthttps://www.instructables.com/Comparing-Impact-Resistance-of-21-Filaments-for-3D/

author: the Chris
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2024, 04:48:50 am
content: I used PRO1 on an Ultimate S3 during my time at university. It is stiffer than normal PLA and very easy to print because of low warping and high layer adhesion. The drawbacks in comparison to ABS:- no smoothing with Acetone- a lot less heat resistantHorses for courses.About two or three years ago I was told by a Ultimaker sales guy that they were going to change the supplier of their Tough PLA to BASF. At that time I wondered how they would do it because their Though PLA was even stronger than PRO1 but a bit less nice to print, so the switch would have changed some material properties considerably. I guess their own Tough PLA answers this question finally.
3D Video Capture - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mengfei
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2024, 03:37:45 am
content: is there a way to capture or to make a video of a 3D movi coming from a projector that uses DLP Link Glasses?

author: mengfei
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2024, 01:45:33 am
content: Cool! thanks CC, i'll try to look into those suggestion
Hakko 850 handle model - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Exxor
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2024, 12:35:48 am
content: For anyone else who happens to find a Hakko 850 rework station that has a melted handle due to obvious operator error, I've modeled the handpiece for printing in a suitable material:https://github.com/Xorlent/Hakko-850-Handpiece

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2024, 10:34:44 pm
content: You might want to post to thingiverse or printables instead, so people searching can easily find it.
3d printed part compatible with BMH-02 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rehevkor5
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 15, 2024, 01:31:43 am
content: I created a 3d printable model that should be compatible with the BMH-02 magnetic hanger which can be used with the BM786 multimeter (and perhaps others?): It slides/clips into the same slot and provides a hookable hole on the top and a webbing loop at the bottom.Here's a link to the latest version (which might change if I make any edits):Brymen BMH-02 compatible (Main)And here's a link to version V2 (which won't change):Brymen BMH-02 compatible (V2)It prints in two pieces: the main body and a piece with retainers that are meant to flex during insertion & removal. The retainer piece must be snapped into the body, after printing. You might have to use a utility knife or exacto blade to clean up the thin parts that snap into the body. My test prints were in PLA, which is not very flexible.Contrary to the real part, I did not include a way to add a rare earth magnet. But if you have an idea what size magnet might be readily available, I could probably figure out a way to incorporate one. Or, you can create your own Onshape account and make your own modifications.I hope you find it useful, and let me know if you do!

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2024, 01:49:28 am
content: That's great, you might want to move your post to the topic below -https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 15, 2024, 02:17:14 am
content: Maybe upload to one of the popular 3D printing databases like Thingiverse?

author: rehevkor5
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 15, 2024, 02:46:41 am
content: You got it:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6662343Only objection to moving it to that bigger thread is that I'd probably get a bunch of notifications I'm not interested in...
Interesting tour of Prusa factory ("farm") - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bitwelder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2024, 12:32:45 pm
content: On Scotty's Strange Parts YT channel

author: MuhScopeBroke
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2024, 01:36:22 pm
content: This is awesome

author: drago462
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2024, 06:23:15 am
content: Impressive how big they have become.Thanks for sharing!
3D printing valued compagny as for LeCroy (WM,SDA,DDA) Bezel  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: hpw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2024, 12:32:42 pm
content: I am a bit lost with those China 3D printings... as the Bezel of up to 40cm by 25cm and a bit complexa) the are cheap in the 30$...80$ rangesb) sometimes they arrive wrapped as shippingc) the latest 80$ from equal company, Y-axis any larger than the other 3D prints as different material used. So it must be an 3D printer issue.d) also the possible colors is very limited, as original looks like light blue-greaySee pictures about the front bezel..Any pointer to any valued printing shop is welcomeHp
SLA print warping - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: strawberry
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2024, 05:09:28 pm
content: warping happen after some day. like some internal stress???uneven printing temperature?? it comes out almost perfect but then it is mehI broke one sample but got worse(couldn't put peaces back)one sample came out finewall thickness 3mm L=200mm H=30mm boxacrylic resin

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2024, 08:35:28 pm
content: Did you UV cure?https://www.linkedin.com/advice/3/how-do-you-avoid-warping-cracking-your-sla-prints
Creality K1 Max 3D Printer: Unboxing + Setup + First Print - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 10, 2023, 08:42:57 pm
content: Creality K1 Max AI 3D Printer Unboxing + Setup + First PrintToo big for the usual Mailbag video.

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2023, 06:26:35 pm
content: Looking ata quick glance, I saw you setting up network settings, and cloud related stuff? Does that mean this printer is depenent on them, or can it run fully offline in a "slice stl to gcode on pc, copy gcode to USB or SD card, insert USB/SD in printer, select file from sick/card, print" mode?

author: drago462
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2024, 08:04:35 am
content: I recently bought one of them I am pretty with the printing quality after tunning some parametters. I also have a X1 Carbon and the results are quite the same for the half of the price. The only con I found is you have to open the top when printing with PETG and it's quite noisy.
Recently upgraded from original Ender 3 to a FLSUN Super Racer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Helio_Centra
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2024, 06:09:17 pm
content: I know, I am cheap and still using old tech. I'm okay with that.The SR is a huge upgrade, way faster, more accurate, quieter. (And I had modded my Ender to make it quieter.)My one complaint is the stock extruder is trash. I'm gonna swap that as soon as I can get a better one. But Creality puts cheap plastic extruders on all their machines too.Cat photo just because he is cute.
Prusa i3 help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Jester
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2023, 05:50:43 pm
content: I recently purchased two used Prusa i3's a MK2 and an MK2 upgraded to MK2.5SThe upgraded one does not work and I'm looking for a forum where I can get info on how to fix it. I'm new to 3D printing but I'm an engineer so pretty good at fixing things.So if someone can suggest a forum that would have some Prusa experts, or if someone here has some expertise that would be great. I posted on the Prusa forum, but have had no response to my question.Details of problem:Extruder correctly finds home, but then fails at begining of XYZ calibration with "Calibration failed, check axes"This is a i3 MK2S upgraded to a MK2.5S (with metal plate)Firmware:I tried both 3.8.1 and 3.13.2 same resultsWhen I select Calibration | Auto Home, the PINDA sensor is very close to centered in the target.When I select Calibrate XYZ, after setting the top Z, the extruder comes down well left of the target (perhaps that's normal I'm not sure) but then stops and throws error "Calibration failed, check axes"The PINDA sensor light turns off just as the extruder approaches the table, but then it stops and throws the error.Not sure what to do next?

author: jfb
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 01:41:38 pm
content: Try the prusa forums athttps://forum.prusa3d.com/and more specificallyhttps://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/english-forum-original-prusa-i3-mk2-5s-mk2-5/

author: aeberbach
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2023, 07:44:39 pm
content: Definitely Prusa forums as jfb suggested.But also... XYZ calibration fails are usually due to incorrect tension, worn or ungreased bearings, misaligned rods (Y axis especially) or something in the path of the extruder. A cable tie incorrectly placed on the cable bundle of the X axis is a really common problem. But in the case of a MK2 I would probably suspect belts and bearings. I don't known if the MK2 shipped with hardened steel rods, can you see any wear in them or are they still a uniform mirror polish?If the printer is turned off you can probably manually rotate the two Z axis screws by hand to bring the carriage right to the top of its travel. Does it go that high when the self-calibration is happening? Is the print plate sitting down where it should be or has it been raised higher somehow? The axes all want to see a minimum amount of travel from one end to the other and they need to perform the travel without detecting excessive current from the steppers during travel (possibly due to worn rods or bearings or belt too tight where a belt is involved).
3D Printing and Circuit Boards - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DarkMode
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2023, 09:12:39 am
content: Has anyone attempted to manufacture their own circuit boards with their 3D printer?I'm looking into this as an option.I know 3D printers can be made into a drilling machine and I've seen some examples of routed designs, that's not what I'm asking.What material can you print that will hold up to the amount of heat needed for soldering - probably none?I had a thought experiment of using wire Solder though the head to lay down tracks, has one done this crazy experiment.Printing on PCB material directly, basically laying down the tracesNot as good as copper, I know .. I know..Ps. I didn't want to deal with chemicals.Just some random thoughts.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2023, 09:17:40 am
content: Several threads in this section already and the basic result was NOT YEThttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/3d-printing/printing-pcb-with-3d-printer/msg3829595/#msg3829595https://www.eevblog.com/forum/3d-printing/creating-a-homemade-pcb-with-the-voltera-v-one-pcb-printer/msg3442300/#msg3442300

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2023, 05:24:18 pm
content: One of the main issues would be trace width and spacing, if you could find a way to get a printer to lay down the right sort of material it would be hardto get thin enough traces to be really useful, and where they came even slightly close together there would be a good chance of them sticking to each other as they printed.

author: mendip_discovery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2023, 06:30:21 pm
content: You can print conductive materials and that might be a nice way to connect two boards together or get signals from let's say the board to the LED in the head of an object without using wires.

author: fghlw
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 23, 2023, 03:07:19 pm
content: if the printer include two or more "heads", and exist some conducting material(possible). One head print base another print “route”. how to solder it, maybe special glue?

author: abeyer
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2023, 09:45:15 pm
content: This one was kind of clever, though really only feasible for "toy" scenarios, wouldn't work for anything very big/complex:https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printed-Circuit-Boards-for-solder-free-printab/
z-axis limit switches - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: r6502
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2023, 11:17:28 pm
content: Hello all,I'm new in this theme - I bought a used Anycubric Mega S.I tried to adjust everything, but got different result when printing the same part, especial for the 1st layer.I started to investigate and found out, that the used switches for both z-axis generate a real large tolerance of the final hight compared to the hot bed.In my case it was in the range of +-0.12mm, but sometimes it was also +- 0.2 mm. I measured this on both z-axis.Is this related to the used switches? Has somebody tried to replace the switches with photo sensors, that are more precise regarding the switch position and the repeatability? This should result in more precise levelling position of the z-axis. The x- and y-axis does not be that imported, as these axis are only related to the position, where on the base the part is printed.It would be interesting to her your comments..Have a nice weekend - Guido.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2023, 12:03:33 am
content: Mechanical switches are more than accurate enough for your average 3D printer. From what I see in photos its a normal metal arm microswitch, which is typically used.Either:- Switch is damaged or dirty- There is mechanical slop somewhere in the system (something loose, broken, etc)Check that the switch is soldered in place, joints are not cracked, and try moving it around and activating it with your finger.Spare endstop switches are cheap (<$2), so might be a good idea to have some on hand.https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1109/which-endstops-are-most-precise

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2023, 03:53:15 am
content: What did you uses to measure this variability. I have encountered many problems with the spacing of the hot bed relative to the nozzle that are unrelated to the limit switch. Check for anything loose in the vertical drive chain. Check that level adjustment screws are not rubbing against cabling or items near the printer. I have found that prints that are difficult to remove from the bed often result in changes in bed height.Don't get discouraged by all this. Once you have your process all tuned in they do tend to stay solved for long periods.

author: r6502
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2023, 04:07:13 pm
content: Hello all,thank's for your input.I had a clocer look today at the device, and found out, the the z-axis adjustment screw was not really guided, and was wobbling around, and depending on the actual position, it hits the switch earlier or later.I used a cable shoe, soldered some wire in, placed this under one of the scres holding the the z-axis spindle screw, and wound the wire around the z-axis adjustment screw. Now the screw is guided and has a fixed position. Now I did get a reproducible z height, that changes now only +-0.02mm. This is fine I think, and I will level the Printer now, and see if it gets now reproducible 1st layer.refer to attached photos.Guido
UL 94 V0 PETG filament - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Shadowfire
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2023, 01:40:22 pm
content: Ever since I got my 3D printer, I've been wondering if we will ever get flame-extinguishing filaments for UL94, and while I was browsing for upgrades to my printer, it looks like Prusa is about to launch some:https://blog.prusa3d.com/the-new-prusament-gets-ul-certified-were-launching-a-new-self-extinguishing-petg_80711/For actual 94LV0 certification, it requires a specific printer and configuration (see the article), but there's nothing stopping hobbyists from using it to make your projects safer.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2023, 09:21:23 pm
content: QuoteThats good, although no mention of what the additive actually is.

author: usagi
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2023, 07:16:07 pm
content: this is what prusa spends time and effort on, rather than delivering promised features on the XL?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2023, 09:49:29 pm
content: Quote from: usagi on August 20, 2023, 07:16:07 pmThey have over 700 employees, the person working on this is unlikely to be working on mechanical features..
How to create this in Fusion360 for printing? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jc101
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2023, 04:21:03 pm
content: I can use Fusion 360 for general simple stuff, making enclosures and that type of thing.But I have been asked by a friend to try and 3D print a bit of trim for a 50 year old aircraft cockpit. This is used as a simulator, so there are no issues with approvals etc.The existing part is in a number of small pieces, the pic is from a parts catalogue. I have the dimensions from before it crumbled. Apart from the odd shape, it also isn't flat when looked at from the side but curves gently.I can sketch the top view fine, with all the appropriate features, but then how to get it into a smooth surface shape ~1.5mm thick with the appropriate curves etc. is giving me a headache.Does anyone have any pointers as to where to start and the easiest way to recreate the part in Fusion 360? Even a pointer to a suitable tutorial video would be good. I've watched several byt they seem to be for more flowing shapes, like the backs of guitars, or tool handles etc. Nothing quite as angular. Overall the part is 85mm x 90mm.edit just to say the part isn't available after a bit of searching around.

author: Lindley
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2023, 05:19:13 pm
content: Would either of these help ?

author: jc101
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2023, 07:49:54 pm
content: That form face tool looks like it will work. Thanks for that. Much tinkering still to do, but getting there, I think.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2023, 04:33:29 am
content: Trawl this YouTube channel he is a Rockstar when it comes to oddball surface modelling and Fusion more generallyhttps://www.youtube.com/@Fusion360School

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2023, 07:26:31 am
content: Just for fun while I had a Beerand snacksFeel free to download this and have a playhttps://a360.co/3OUqDpC
Does anyone know the reference docs for importing projects from thingiverse - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ansonbao
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2023, 10:27:27 am
content: HiI want to develop a function that allows creators to automatically import thingiverse projects fromour community, but I can't find their development documents online. Does anyone know about this? Grateful

author: Alfi1966
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 14, 2023, 07:29:39 am
content: Try contacting Irv Shapiro from the MakeWithTech channel on YouTube. I think he did something similar and might be able to help you out.
Print Tolerances for Prototyping.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bonifacio
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2023, 08:38:52 pm
content: When prototyping fitting parts, what tolerances do you use?I've been just guessing to offset the expansion and imperfections.For example, let's say threaded parts. Do you shrink the male part or enlarge the female part?I'm always resizing and reprinting. Just estimating. Sometimes I'm on, sometime's too tight.Most of the time I'll just go .2mm smaller, do you take it down further?

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2023, 08:58:52 pm
content: I usually find, 0.2mm change to a RADIUS (so 0.4mm to a diameter) to be confident of a snug fit of a printed pin in to a printed hole, 0.3mm for a looser fit which might be expected to move, 0.15mm for snug tolerances between a printed part and an accurately sized purchased part (metal rods or similar).On a pair of parts you could pick to enlarge or shrink one part or the other, or to offset both by half the tolerance you're leaving.

author: bonifacio
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2023, 10:28:01 pm
content: Quote from: Infraviolet on June 18, 2023, 08:58:52 pmSo if it was threading and the space was 15mm diameter, you would take the object to 14.6mm? Just verifying. I'd would go to 14.8mm. I guess that's why it's always too tight.

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2023, 04:32:12 am
content: Yes, 14.6 diam for going in to 15mm, if it is too loose you could always redesign for 14.7 or 14.8. With threading make sure the threads are pretty big so the print has enough resolution for them to be worthwhile, and as threads will mate together you might even still get a fairly tight fit for having a <14.6mm diam. There might well be, specifically for threaded parts, some sort of "thread calibration" models on the likes of hingiverse or printables, which you can use to get a feel for how different thread sizes and tolerances would come out from your printer.

author: bonifacio
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2023, 07:41:03 pm
content: Thanks for the revelation. Never really thought about it until now. Normally going .25mm total. When it really should have been .25mm each side. I really should just get a tap and die set. Lol.Thanks.
Open-source A4988 driver based 2x8 pin carrier module - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dragon5
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2024, 12:54:33 pm
content: I am looking for an open-source hardware implementation of the popular 2x8 pin 2.54mm module. Don't seem to find anything and just wanted to confirm there is no known implementation before designing one myself.
Higher flow with volcano nozzle and regular heater - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: thmjpr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2022, 02:32:29 am
content: Apparently if you need higher flow rates you can just straight up swap out the nozzle from a V6 to a volcano, no need for special orientation of the heater:Adding some additional nuts or insulation helps but is not required.There is also theCHT nozzle, released last year:- Cost is about $20- Same sort of performance as volcano- Advantage is your Z height would be preservedOr DIY CHT, some ways to attempt:- Press fit a copper/brass rod into the nozzle, drill out a few holes (you'll need some small size drills and a good drill press)- Press fit in some flat plates, maybe two at opposite angles, could even use an old penny (easiest method?)- Solder in some flat plates or copper wires (if press fitting isn't secure or doesn't work)- Drill and install copper wires, solder, as shown in the youtube channel aboveThe clones are using some press fit drilled method with copper:No sign of solder that I see. Copper is theoretically best material to use, but in reality brass or aluminum would likely work as well.I wouldn't buy a clone considering how expensive it is.

author: xchg.ca
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2023, 12:18:54 pm
content: Nice idea !I have pretty similar setup with my RigidBot ( Hemera + Volcano )Using Volcano hot end was a pain with Hemera in term of cable managementI have several V6 hot ends kicking around and multiple copper and even stainless steel Volcano nozzles!I can definitely try this out, just need to get few brass nuts !!Here is short vid of my setuphttps://youtu.be/f5h9X5snYLE?t=259
Something new? conical slicing? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: 3roomlab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2022, 09:07:13 am
content: As per title

author: barelectricbear
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2022, 04:09:46 pm
content: This looks interesting but as he mentioned in the video there would be some things to consider. A special nozzle is needed and the print head can potentially be hitting the print when retracting downward. From my experice it is best to design parts by compensating for the overhang by making a 45 or 60 degree edge. This might be good option for toy doll makers.
Model link: 10 turn potentiometer counter knob - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Zbig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2023, 08:43:02 pm
content: Since I have recently designed a 3D-printable knob for a 10 turn potentiometer, it seems reasonable to put it here so there you go:https://www.printables.com/model/369108-10-turn-potentiometer-counter-knob

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2023, 03:23:58 am
content: That's very nice. Any way of changing the range? Something like 0 to 30 for 30V power supplies.

author: EPAIII
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2023, 06:04:06 am
content: Looks very nice. And replaces a hard to source knob. Thanks for sharing. I will bookmark the link.
Things to print - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mendip_discovery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2023, 01:40:17 pm
content: Now I have a printer I am trying to think of the things I would like to print.My thoughts so far are,Drill Guide for banana terminals.Thermal shield for the calibrator at work and even the 34401A. Just to see how much it makes a difference on thermal EMFsThermal shield for K-type thermal couples the calibrator I use has a temp sensor in the connector and if I swap it between the channels I inadvertently warm it up a little. Plus to reduce any drafts.What other things Electronics/Metrology related should I look at printing?If I am trying to build a part is there a trick to making the various cutouts. For example, I want to print a project box with a 9pin com port on it, some banana connectors and to finish it off a BNC connector. Do you just keep a library of the cutout shapes and just apply them. Using Fusion 360 for now.

author: Lindley
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2023, 11:47:46 am
content: Quote from: mendip_discovery on January 14, 2023, 01:40:17 pmNot something we have done yet, think Ytube is your helper there,This one should give you the basic concept -

author: EPAIII
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2023, 05:35:50 am
content: Not directly Electronics/Metrology related, but I am presently working on a tool carousel for my work benches. I presently have three benches so I will probably make three of them. Each will have custom holes for the hand tools I frequently use at each bench. They should help cut down on the clutter. Or perhaps just make space for more. This is also a learning exercise for FreeCAD.
Magnetic Precise PCB Probing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TomWinTejas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2023, 05:01:50 pm
content: It's not my design, but I ran across this today and thought others might be interested. I was looking at the PCBite for a while now, and it might be the better solution, but I think I'll give this a shot first and see how it goes.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5815001

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2023, 11:54:05 pm
content: There has been a few 3D printed options in the past too. This one springs to mind and I am sure I have seen others so a little more Thingiverse searching might help find them.https://hackaday.com/2019/11/15/needling-your-projects-3d-printed-pcb-probing-jig-uses-accupuncture-needles/

author: super7800
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2023, 01:58:55 pm
content: i printed the acupuncture needle one in the past. worked horribly for me, could never get it to work right. maybe it was my print setup or the way i assembled it, i don't know. the PCBite is the single most used piece of equipment in my lab, highly recommended, and they just came out with new removable probes too. Its the purchase nobody regrets (if you do SMD probing often)the "Magnetic Precise PCB Probing" looks like it might actually work too. the issue i had with the acupuncture was how flimsy it was, but that looks more sturdy.
really bad Kickstarter IMO - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: drprinter
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 03, 2023, 02:12:32 pm
content: Hi IMO I was redirected to a site where there is a Kickstarter for an ultrasonic knife for over $2000 to help cut plastic from 3D prints. Maybe I am crazy but maybe an x-acto with a small vibrating Motor from maybe a pager might work as good and a lot cheaper??https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/535443659/h-b03-premium-ultrasonic-cutter-perfect-and-precise-cut?ref=ayg39x&utm_source=jellop&ja=z2aimakj&utm_term=001.ja&utm_content=HB03Cutter-CB02&utm_medium=facebook&utm_id=fb&fbclid=IwAR0uJq-DHQWaJc9I2Qs5n-wXn0I4hVo6fmFMbxA6XO-9sH6SiyzFeVHSegI&utm_campaign=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

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2023, 02:23:41 pm
content: That's HK$2269 or US$291 for the knife.

author: drprinter
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 03, 2023, 02:27:44 pm
content: Quote from: sokoloff on January 03, 2023, 02:23:41 pmok missed read but still maybe $25.00 for X-acto knife and motor??

author: Pilatus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2023, 03:26:55 pm
content: The cutter looks very similar to the ZO-41 by Honda Cutters $460https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Cutters-ZO-41-ultrasonic-cutter/dp/B00KCAKZ7GI have used the ZO-41 and it operates just like the depicted cutter in the kickstarter. Same blades, same attach mechanism. Looks to be about the same performance.There is no motor as such. It is a stack of piezo devices that vibrate at ultrasonic frequencies, with the blade attached on one end. I doubt you can make a such a device for $25.The main difference from the kickstarter item and the ZO-41 seems to be better cooling. Price seems reasonable to me.

author: drprinter
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 03, 2023, 04:46:50 pm
content: Challange Accepted....Quote from: Pilatus on January 03, 2023, 03:26:55 pm

author: gamerpaddy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2023, 01:54:25 am
content: a similiar thing also on kickstarter,https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1352339404/ctrlax-premium-ultrasonic-cutter-40000-vibrations-secultrasonic knifes are a thing and they are expensive. 300 bucks for it sounds like a good deal if it works. This Old Tony once reviewed one
Any resin gurus out there that can point me in the right direction. Bad prints. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: magnetchief
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 02:59:27 pm
content: Hi, I have a Photon Mono X printer that I just can't get to work correctly.Attached are a couple of photos showing my issue.The print is not detaching from the screen.I have tried running through the set up a few times all with similar results.Also attached a photo of identical prints on my Form 3. These work perfectly, but of course at a much higher cost.The Mono X was purchased to make quick prototypes but it's just not working out.Any advice greatly appreciated.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 06:23:18 pm
content: 1) maybe uv light is not powerful enough you need to increase exposure time by a bit?2) maybe the bed is too sticky rubbing a thin layer of grease or some oily thing on it before print may help?

author: magnetchief
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 06:39:37 pm
content: Many thanks, will look into that

author: eliocor
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 22, 2022, 08:33:43 pm
content: too low exposure...UseUVtoolsand follow the hints in this video:

author: magnetchief
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 03:06:21 pm
content: Thanks, that’s an interesting link.I’ll play around with the UVtest as per the video and try again.

author: lugaw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2022, 03:53:29 am
content: Your FEP film is probably low grade, it shouldn't stick to the film.

author: magnetchief
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2022, 02:32:39 pm
content: FEP film now replaced.I agree the one that came with the printer was pretty poor quality.

author: amwales
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2022, 02:43:17 pm
content: I'm curious, did replacing the FEP fix it?

author: magnetchief
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2022, 07:24:16 pm
content: Well I experimented with UVtest and with that and the replacement FEP film I'm up and running.Now recent issues, I can pretty much have the confidence to print as needed without issues.
Install webcam in Linux Mint 21 so I can use it with Octoprint - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2022, 03:12:54 am
content: I have an old NUC with Intel Celeron and I thought why not use it as an Octoprint server. I installed Linux Mint 21, Octoprint, SSH and everything works like a charm ... except for the video stream. I have a Logitech C615 and it works well in Cheese but I cannot get it to work with Octoprint. I tried every instruction on the web (I'm not very knowledgeable in Linux, so to speak) to install mjpg-streamer, with no luck. Is there any Linux guru that can help me with this or do you know any working step by step sequence that I can follow?Cheers,MitiEdit: To moderators, I think this topic belongs here because is about Octoprint and 3D printing and not only about computers, but if you want to move it then, well...

author: Ed.Kloonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2022, 03:39:16 am
content: Only used cheese as a fleeting glimpse not familiar with Octoprint. But here's my quick guess anyway..Cheese might be more aggressive in finding your camera but maybe Octoprint requires a specific parameter to find the camera.I'd try and find what the location of the camera is, /dev/? and see if there's a way to make Octoprint accept it.

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2022, 06:46:54 pm
content: Can Cheese's video be piped to octoprint somehow? Also, check if the camera setup works with zoom/google meet/other common videocall platforms, if it does than you knw this is an octoprint complication specifically, if it doesn't then you know it may be an issue with the camera which cheese happens to be lucky enough to overcome but nothing else can. I'm on Mint (and older version), and have found USB webcams and inbuilt ones to work fine with everything I've used, but I've never used Octoprint. Does octoprint have its own forum you could report this on?

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2022, 10:35:07 am
content: Thanks guys for your answers! Sorry, I was crazy busy these days. I finally managed to configure it with information combined from all the corners of the internet. There’s only one more thing to do, make it start at boot. That part doesn’t work yet. If I log in or ssh in and start it manually it works, but the service doesn’t seem to start at Linux start. I also get an M112 shutdown error when I connect with Octoprint to the printer and I think it is because I’m running Jyers SW which I like, but I understand it is based on an older version of Marlin which is buggy. I may have to upgrade to the latest Marlin.

author: barelectricbear
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2022, 03:46:51 am
content: You can make the program start on boot by adding the executable path to the /etc/rc.local file.
Input shaping now in Marlin - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: thmjpr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2022, 01:03:39 am
content: For those on the bleeding edge, of Marlin, experimental input shaping has been added:https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/commit/a460b01c876ff39901fe55a4b66b2c62737ef46cIf you have an issue with ringing in your print, and want to print faster, might be worth looking at.Its a manual calibration process, so you print a test piece, and measure the X and Y resonant frequencies on the print, then enter those in the config. AFAIK.https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.htmlPersonally I just print a bit slower, but I also don't use a bed slinger.