hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
OWON  SDS7102  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Cali-Sam
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2013, 09:13:34 pm
content: Any thoughts on OWON 100Mhz Oscilloscope SDS7102 1G/s large 8" LCD?Pros and cons, where to buy one, any comparable or better models for the same price? and is it worth the money? $430 USD on eBay, can I find it cheaper anywhere else?Sam,Thanks.

author: sorin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2013, 09:32:49 pm
content: Quote from: Cali-Sam on May 07, 2013, 09:13:34 pmwhere?

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2013, 09:37:38 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/review-of-owon-sds7102/

author: Cali-Sam
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2013, 09:38:48 pm
content: I ment 430 USD

author: blasto9000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2013, 10:24:53 pm
content: Quote from: Hydrawerk on May 07, 2013, 09:37:38 pmI highly recommend you slot the time to watch the entire video. It's very informative. Saved me 10x over in time and hassle in selecting my 'scope. (I was looking to replace my 5 MHz Heathkit... the only oscilloscope I've ever owned until this year.)
Velleman p1300s 12->230V inverter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rollatorwieltje
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 04, 2013, 02:41:24 pm
content: I had this old inverter laying around. I've tried to use it on our boat, but it caused electrical mayhem. Radio reception was virtually gone, the revcounter of the motor went crazy... stuff like that. At some point it popped it's fuse and was replaced by a big APC ups instead.On the outside it looks and feels fine. Nice solid extruded casing.On the inside however...No, this is not some lens distortion, the PCB doesn't fit. If that wasn't bad enough, check the ferrite beats around the 12V input leads.The white toroidal coil in the center is not held on by anything but it's thin leads.Yes, one of those is shorting out the fuse terminals, and the other one is touching the back of the PCB.All the capacitors are branded Fuhjyyu. Apparently this brand is so shitty, it even has it's own Urban Dictionary pagehttp://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=FuhjyyuThe fan is always on screaming at full speed, if that wasn't enough, it produces the loudest transformer noise Iv'e heard ever. It sounds like something is arcing inside, just like an old CRT tv when the flyback transformer has a bad soldering connection.And look at what it does on the 12V input with a 40W desk lamp as load:No wonder the revcounter (that uses a hall sensor) stopped working properly. How is this even possible? This is measured on the battery clamps. There's nothing else connected.Avoid this thing, it is absolute shit. The only sort of positive thing is that is actually does output a sine wave (with lots of noise on it).

author: TerminalJack505
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2013, 03:04:57 pm
content: QuoteLOL. That reminds me of those "dirty dozen" jokes. "Your momma's so fat..." or "Your momma's so ugly..."Your product's so bad, you'll see its picture in the dictionary under the Chinese word for 'feces.'

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2013, 03:30:55 pm
content: Well ferrite is an insulator, though those do look like they are salvaged ones from old leads. Look at the bright side, you now have $2 of scrap metal.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2013, 06:21:35 pm
content: Looks like it could become a nice powersupply enclosure.

author: johnmcquayuk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 05, 2013, 03:33:35 pm
content: I've used a couple of Velleman kits to take the ball-ache out of things but never spent more than about £5 on one. Note to self; don't buy their expensive stuff as it's crap.
JBC soldering - looking for an upgrade many models & some discontinued ?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: KD0CAC John
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2013, 02:21:28 pm
content: I may add to my repair bench , not any kind of commercial , mostly looking for ham radio gear that needs repair , but as time goes I may do more repair for others .A Hakko knock off hot air .I have an old Weller very small hand piece .Also an older Metcal hand piece with the desoldering gun , use this the most .I do through-hole , SMD general repair .I see lots of models and some discontinued I am looking at JBC AD2950 .My main question it which model would be recommended ?What tips can interchange with what models ?Anything to avoid ?Trying to stay under $400 ?

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2013, 03:10:07 pm
content: Most of JBCs recent offerings can take either the smaller T210 handpiece or the larger T245.There are a range of tips available for eachhttp://www.jbctools.com/cataleg.php?id=4Look at either the C210 or teh C245 for details of what is available.
schematics for a Delta CCFL inverter/mosfet datasheet? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Eliminateur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2013, 09:02:07 pm
content: anyone has any idea where to find the schematics for a Delta DAC-08N012 notebook CCFL inverter?it has a busted bridge mosfet(i don't know if they're dual or not but now that i take a closer look it seems that it's an H bridge) in a horribly tiny 6 pin SMD package that i think it's SOT-363all i can make out is what looks like "333d" and of course it's impossible to decipher, any ideas?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2013, 10:27:10 am
content: You're likely not going to find any schematics but that part maybe aMUN5333DW1.

author: Eliminateur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2013, 05:25:48 pm
content: hmmm i don't think they're bipolar transistors, in an H-bridge?
Futurelec - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nigelpro123
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 05, 2013, 10:15:47 am
content: Hi, I just discovered a company that sells electronic components a few days back. It is called Futurelec and I was wondering whether it is a good place to buy from.Thanks

author: Kevin.D
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2013, 10:28:51 am
content: IF you dont mind waiting for 3 months for your order then ok . I sent of for a mixture of smd to through hole adapters before christmas, after I had ordered abut had not heard nothing for 4 weeks , I then sent them an email and they replied and said that they didn't have the adapter sizes I had ordered in stock at the moment , but they would be getting them in "next week". This went on for over 3 months , I ended up cancelling after I had waited 3 months for them.

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 05, 2013, 10:48:19 am
content: You can use thesearchoption to find more information on the subject:Here's one thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/futurlec/msg193213/#msg193213
Seeking for help in Hercules LVS in Synopsys - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bksecret
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 30, 2013, 08:50:53 am
content: HelloSo I'm "lay-outing" a resistor in Synopsys, I ran a Hercules DRC to check and it's cleanSo when I tried to run a Hercules LVS to check it, it doesn't workright now I have a filename called empty.subckt, how can I use that subcircuit in order to run a LVS check in my layout?Thank you
Delorme PN-40 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Rotareneg
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 29, 2013, 03:46:26 pm
content: I took apart my Delorme PN-40 GPS which I've grown to hate for various reasons, so here's what's inside: (to view full size, click on the images to go the the Flickr page and then right click on the photo and choose original)Here's the RF front end:Here's the surface mounted barometer, which doesn't work very well inside the water and air tight case:Here is an odd little component, anyone know what it might be?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2013, 04:28:49 pm
content: Bare chip with 6 bumps, probably a voltage regulator. Nice how you can see the sensor MEMS and the signal conditioning amplifier/ADC through the Parylene in the barometer unit.
Circuit Breaker Fail/Teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ResR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2013, 06:07:15 pm
content: This circuit breaker failed due to the bad weld on a coil to contact area and fortunatelly staid in tripped position. It was relatively easy to open it by snapping off the aluminium rivets with a small screwdriver. The area where it was used has highly corrosive conditions (pig farm).
Samsung phone battery types ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ptricks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2013, 11:58:40 am
content: I need to send a friend some external phone battery chargers and all I know is they are samsung phones, 2 different battery styles , and are not phones that require a data plan. The phones were purchased from verizon wireless over the past 2 years. Does anyone know what the different styles of battery are for samsung phones ?I wish I could just ask the friend what models but unfortunately I can't contact them now and for them to get what is needed I need to send it today or tomorrow.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2013, 12:10:22 pm
content: it's almost certainly either single cell lithium-ion or lithium-polymer.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2013, 08:45:57 am
content: Can't you just get one based on the battery model/phone model, eg google "samsung *phonenamehere* external battery charger" ?Quote from: Psi on April 29, 2013, 12:10:22 pmAnd if you don't know which, get the lithium-ion one, because it has a lower maximum voltage chemistry, so will work, just won't 100% charge the battery.
All-purpose charger - Tecxus TC 6000 family teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2013, 05:54:35 pm
content: This manufacturer is not much well-known.http://www.tecxus.com/chargers/multi-purpose-charger.htmlThe TC 6000 family charger was bought in 8/2010 and still works fine. I don't like the plastic sliding contacts, but they seem to be quite solid. They are not going to break. On the other hand, most other chargers have steel sliding contacts...Pictures:https://plus.google.com/photos/106264218831814439783/albums/5792859766633826977I identified all the ICs. There is a Samsung microcontroller, power mosfets and a step down converter.There is an external 230V to 12V DC power adaptor.
HAKKO FX-951 clones - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: marian69
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 22, 2013, 05:01:57 pm
content: Hi,I want to replace my old PT 936 soldering station. I can spend about 150$ for it. What do you think about Hakko fx-951 chineese clones? Is it a good choice? What are the differences between chineese and japaneese fx-951?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2013, 03:16:04 am
content: Quality would almost certainly be questionable IMHO, given the types of issues shown in various tear downs of Chinese stations in EEVBlog.If you're after a Chinese product with All-in-One tips due to budget restrictions, take a look at an Aoyue that uses this type of tip technology (http://www.aoyue.com/en/ArticleShow.asp?ArticleID=455). Otherwise, I'd recommend adding the $100 to get the genuine article from a reputable dealer (devil is in the details; such as proper mains and ground wiring, silicone insulation on the iron's cable, ...). These sorts of little things really do make a huge difference in my experience.

author: marian69
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 24, 2013, 07:26:17 pm
content: Could you tell me where can I buy original Hakko fx-951 for 250$? Unfortunately I'm from Poland and I need 220V version.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2013, 04:08:28 pm
content: Quote from: marian69 on April 24, 2013, 07:26:17 pmSetting your country can help avoid this type of confusion.The pricing I indicated was US ($249.95 MSRP). Even Amazon sells them at that price here (haven't seen any discounted pricing on it).Perhaps you could try to locate a US version (if you can find a US seller that would ship internationally) + a step-down transformer, and see if it would come in cheaper than a 220V version from an EU vendor. Worth checking out at least, IMHO.
Quick Teardown of a chinese xVolts - 12VDC Step Down converter. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 10:04:55 am
content: I bought a few cheap DC-DC converters off Aliexpress the other day and I was curious as to what was in them, so when one rocked up, I opened it up. I got a little surprise.

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 12:54:19 pm
content: What's that SOIC package? Any markings on it? Seems like that would be the controller. Have you done any measurements? like input and output ripple as a function of load? From the number of caps and large number of controller pins it would seem like this is more sophisticated than your standard MC34063.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2013, 02:09:47 pm
content: SHR8067S is the text written on the IC, I'm guessing it is a controller that is similar to the MC34063, but with higher max voltages ect.I don't think I am going to be able to find information on the chip though, as I think it is either custom label/no name manufacturer/unique to this package (ceramic pcb + laser cut resistors).The unit as a whole is referred to as a HRD12003, and the only datasheet I have seen for it is horrible resolution; but states something like the following; input 17-40v, output 12v (5-24), at 5v minimum input is 11v, at 24v minimum is 27v, current rating is 3a.However, the ceramic PCB is available separately from everything else and it is specified at 0.6A, which implies that the current limit would be the heatsinking.Datasheet states 25mv p/p, but i think that would largely depend on what caps the "assembler" puts on it. I know I will be replacing the input AND output caps.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2013, 10:38:44 am
content: That's because it's not Chinese, it's Japanese.If you look around in the archive of the Shindengen website, sometime around 2001 or so the HRD12003 shows up. It was discontinued in 2006, so any that you find for sale now are probably NOS. Despite the warnings on their website I don't believe the Chinese have the ability to clone a custom hybrid power module down to the PWM ASIC and bare-mounted FET... yet.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2013, 08:04:34 am
content: Fair enough, I (wrongly) assumed it was chinese because of the price of the unit and where I got it from, along with the distinct lack of information on it, however, since it is a custom hybrid, it isn't all that surprising there isn't as much information on it.
Teardown of a $12 (US, retail), quad-GSM cellphone - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Involute
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2013, 11:03:55 pm
content: The teardown isn't up to Dave's standards, but interesting nevertheless:http://www.bunniestudios.com/blog/?p=3040. Fully-functional, unlocked cellphone for 12 bucks (in China, of course). Who would've thought?

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2013, 11:24:26 pm
content: My kind of phone. ..... cheap and dumb........Regards

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2013, 05:18:06 am
content: Are you sure the $12 are for retail in the US? Bunnie is living in Asia. In Europe one can get such phones, made in China, for 20 Euro (26 USD) since a few years from local retailers. Considering typical retail margins the price seems to be matching.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2013, 10:48:06 am
content: The Chinese are experts at reducing cost through high integration. Reminds me of this:http://www.bunniestudios.com/blog/?p=139(Iplayed around with thesebefore. Pretty amazing what they can do with only a Z80 and few hundred K of RAM.)
LCD panel driver schamtics - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Eliminateur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2013, 05:54:33 pm
content: Hello peeps,i've been raking my brains trying to find schematics or any info to troubleshoot LCD panel driver boards, not the small ones, but the "regular display sized ones" LVDS interface 15.6/16/17+" with led backlight.i did found info on the testpads and signaling for the backlight LED driver, but i don't have any info about the rest -and they're full of testpads-.any ideas?, trying to find the datasheet for the panel drivers has been... frustrating as best

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2013, 10:39:51 am
content: What sort of driver chips are you looking at?LVDS is pretty high speed, you'll need a high-bandwidth scope to see the signals well.

author: Eliminateur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2013, 04:09:38 pm
content: whatever driver chip is in the LCD display, everyone puts different drivers in them.i'm not looking to test the LVDS signal themselves but to be able to troubleshoot and fix the more "gross" general errors(not BL related) like no display output(which might be a blown fuse or some voltage not present) and that's why i need some service manual or something to have an idea about what's normal for each test point
Trustfire "flames" 18650 li-ion batteries - "2400mAh" protected  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2013, 03:15:32 pm
content: Bought these a while ago from manafont to power some LED flashlights. None of the capacity ratings on these are ever accurate. Surprisingly, these actually performed pretty close to the mark! Managed to get 2111mAh out of a full charge.I'm finding the XT60 connectors from hobby RC places are quite handy for attaching various test rigs to my DC load. The male connectors with 10cm of 12AWG silicone wire are only about a dollar from hobbyking. Soldered one of these to a cheap 18650 holder from ebay and used the existing tiny gauge wiring on it for remote voltage sensing.Discharge test was done at 1A down to 2.75v. You can see it starting to drop voltage quickly in the graph near the end. I did some further discharge on this cell after the initial test. It only provided 1A for another minute before the low voltage cutoff PCB circuit on the cell disconnected the battery.Video below shows the test rig and the maynuo software.

author: cuban8
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2013, 05:11:35 pm
content: Not sure whether I would buy LiIon batteries that call themselves "Flames"...

author: RCMR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2013, 08:37:09 pm
content: For some reason, many of the Chinese manufacturers seem hell-bent on using the word "fire" and pictures of flames on their Li-Ion cells -- go figure.I guess it's better than "The Happy Dragon Feeling Hotly Bright Batterly Company"

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2013, 10:10:08 am
content: I believe the name came from Surefire torches ("flashlights" for the Americans here...)There's also Fireworm, Spiderfire, Ultrafire, and Uranusfire (LOL)

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2013, 10:47:29 am
content: Don't forget FandyFire!I was fairly surprised at how well these held voltage. When it started to drop a bit after 15mins, I did a quick head calc on how much capacity it would have based on the rate of voltage drop. Would have only been around 1000mAh. My only issue is you get different cells in every batch. I'm not sure if I bought the same ones now they'd be as good. These were only $8 or so for a pair over a year ago.I tested some 14500 Trustfire Silver Protected cells not long ago. One was absolutely rubbish. 900mAh? More like 250. The other was actually closer to 500mAh but the protection PCB on it was cactus... Can't win them all
Mayhew Labs Rotary Encoder LED Ring Review - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jmole
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2013, 05:10:08 am
content: Hey all,I put up a review of the Mayhew Labs Rotary Encoder here:Check it out if you're thinking about using a rotary encoder surrounded by LEDs in your next project. There are certainly some caveats that I found with their product that you should be aware of.

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2013, 04:11:24 pm
content: Quote from: jmole on April 14, 2013, 05:10:08 amI spent half the video trying to turn the scope channel 4 vertical position knob.The board is an LED ring with a footprint for a rotary encoder tracked out to a connector. Using an encoder on the board is the same as using an encoder without the board which is what I would expect. Some footprints to optionally add pull ups and filtering would have been nice.

author: AndreasF
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2013, 05:33:38 pm
content: Nice video! I agree that given the target users of the board, it would have probably been better if they had put on the pull-up resistors and the filter circuit. It's also not surprising that a microcontroller will not reach the kind of speeds that a dedicated hardware decoder can reach.However, at the fast rotations speeds you were doing, you're probably exceeding the physical limits of the encoder itself already. On the datasheet you show, you can see that it gives the maximum operational RPM as 60, so no more than 1 full rotation every second. That's a fairly typical figure for this type of encoder, and probably also the reason why potentiometers are still used more often as input devices when you need to be able to change parameters quickly (optical encoders being the other option).

author: jmole
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2013, 05:44:55 pm
content: Quote from: AndreasF on April 14, 2013, 05:33:38 pmThanks! Yes, the freesoc works great with it, but I'm still irked about the lack of pullup resistors or a filter. I really wanted to run 4 of these into 2 daisy-chained parallel load shift registers, like the HC165, and use some verilog code in the freesoc to quickly shift the data in to the quadrature decoder components, so I could use 4 rotary encoders, with LED rings, and only need 6 I/O pins. Now that I know I need a filter, I'm probably just going to roll my own board for these.What was a little surprising to me was that the actual period of the quadrature data was pretty long, on the order of a millisecond, even for fast turns. Makes me wonder how many you could chain together with parallel load shift registers and still have decent update rates.Quote from: AndreasF on April 14, 2013, 05:33:38 pmI didn't think about this actually, and it would've been a good addition to the video. I think I will do a followup video on this in the next month or two where I compare some optical encoders to a mechanical encoder like I used in the video. Just need to find some optical encoders that are suitable for the kind of knob-twiddling I want to do.
Will the £100 Hot Air Gun Soldering Iron burn down my house!?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: peps1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2013, 08:09:07 pm
content: Hello guys,I was wondering if the £100 2in1 Hot Air Gun/Soldering Iron that you find on ebay are any good?Seem to be a few brand doing them in the £80-£120 range...SAIKE, YIHUA, WER ......?

author: megahz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2013, 08:28:41 pm
content: If you are in the 150 euro range get an xtronic 9020 (I think they ship over seas) I have had that for a while and it has sleep mode and the hot air gun turns off when you put it into the holster.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2013, 08:29:53 pm
content: just check the wiring and dont leave it on unless you are working with it

author: peps1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2013, 12:05:45 pm
content: Quote from: megahz on April 07, 2013, 08:28:41 pmThank you, will see if I can grab one here in the UK.
ECM 395 - Teardown - and Tech Questions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: AcousticBruce
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2013, 02:35:36 pm
content: I bought this item for 5 bucks at an live action. I figured the transformer and caps would be worth 5 if it didn't work. Well I figured maybe I can sell it. It seems they still sell for 500-700 bucks refreshed. Maybe I can get a couple hundred. Either way I am happy to just tear down and learn and keep parts if all else fails.So I am after a few things.1) I want to know if my Fluke 83-III is good enough to test this equipment.2) I would like to know what groups of various component systems are called on this thing (power supply, capacitor bank ext.)3) One of the MOSFET's have some weird colors on the solder and I was wondering if it looks like a problem to you.4) Maybe we can walk through and trouble shoot this for fun. If it takes 6 months it is worth it to me.Tests that I did....1) Set the machine on various voltages... such as 100V, 500V and 1kV.2) Used fluke and set on Max mode so it shows the max voltage.3) The most voltage I got was 340V on the LV mode (500V setting on machine)4) On the HV section of the machine I am not sure I got anything. One time it said OL on the Fluke but I couldn't get it to repeat.So as for my question 1 about the Fluke. Is this Fluke good enough to catch a quick voltage such as one like this machine does? Is there another setting I should know about?Ok and now for the pictures.Front PanelMainboardCapacitor BankPower SupplyN-Channel MOSFET

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2013, 02:46:53 pm
content: This is a pulse power supply - I have a later version.It charges the caps up to the required voltage, then discharges on demand.Be careful - it can deliver a dangerous shock!The hi/lo switches configures the caps in series or parallel.Definitely not to be poked around with, Fluke or otherwise on the 3kv range.

author: AcousticBruce
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2013, 05:16:55 am
content: QuoteCool I was wondering if they were ever in series.QuoteMy fluke is rated for 1kv. I only set the dial to 1kv on the ECM and it showed like 40v on the Fluke on discharge. So something must be going on.Did you notice the mosfet Q9? It looks rather weird near the solder joints. What do you think?
Teardown - Motorola DCT2000 cable receiver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: marshallh
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 05, 2013, 08:03:24 pm
content: Click on pics for bigger version.Design is circa 2003. Nowadays this is all done in a single ASIC.There is a PCMCIA PPV slot on the bottom, but it needed to get returned back to the cable provider so no pics.
NEW SMD REWORK STATION - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MrsR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 07:24:05 pm
content: Hi! Guys,I had to get a new Iron and Air rework Station the other day. It is made by TENMA and seems to work OK.Has any body used one or owns one. It cost me $165.00 that's only a third of the cost of my old one.It has 2 displays with 3 resetable Heat Ranges, this looks like a good idea, especially with the Iron. That lets me program a high setting 350 Deg. 280 for medium heavy work and 200 for fine soldering of thin wires so the heat doesn't travel up the wire and shrink the preset pieces held ready to cover the join.I am wondering about the Soldering Iron, The Tip that came with it looks like a HAAKO type does anyone know if their tips fit. The tip that came with it is a very fine round pointed type and I need to get some Chisel types.REGARDSRachael:-+

author: smashedProton
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 07:51:49 pm
content: I will take my calipers and give you the spec of my hakko tips ass soon as I get home.

author: megahz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 11:46:43 pm
content: I bought something similar for 180, its the X-Tronic 9020

author: Deepak
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 06:53:46 pm
content: If it'sthis onethen yes it works with the Hakko tips.

author: MrsR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 08:35:28 pm
content: DEEPAK,Yes thats the one Thanks for your timeMegahz. SO do you like it does the air section hold its temp. ect I looked at a S/H Station but the air kept getting cold and a few mates said that some of the China Types packed it in after a few months.REGARDSRachael
937D soldering station - any actual user experience out there? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 01:07:05 am
content: My soldering iron, after about 40 years of service, is getting ready for its last rites. The body near the heat element split open. While it can still solder, but I no longer consider it safe to use.I came across a Chinese made "937D soldering station" for sale - it fits my budget. Any actual user experience of this soldering iron?There is an old thread with some info on this station and appear to suggest that this is clone of some better one. I was going to ask there, but the tread is over 120 old; the forum I suggested I post a new thread than reply to that one.I am a very light user, occasionally, I may use it for a few days out of every few months. I do not do SMD work (can't see well enough) but may go as far as removing some component, fix a few things here and there, that is about it. Suggestions welcome.ThanksRick

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 01:09:50 am
content: These things are not soldering stations, they are soldering stationkits, second-hand after a twelve-year-old has given them a try. There have been manydangerousdefects in these. Only buy it if you trust yourself to inspect it for safety so you know it won't kill you.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 09:47:51 am
content: All the safety problems have been identified in hot-air/combination stations; if it's just the standard Hakko clone iron station there's not much to go wrong.
TEAC FD-55GFR floppy drive - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Deckert
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2013, 09:22:34 am
content: I was tearing apart some old floppy drives in order to re-task the steppers. In the process, I removed the magnetic disk from the drive motor and found it simply too beautiful not to photograph. The chip in the second pic is a Mitsubishi 3 Phase Brushless motor controller.Here's a close-up of the coils:--deckert

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2013, 10:40:14 am
content: Here's adatasheetfor a slightly newer IC. The traces around the outside appear to be for speed detection.The Hall sensors are probably under the 3 bare poles.

author: Deckert
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2013, 10:59:55 am
content: Quote from: amyk on April 01, 2013, 10:40:14 amAh, right you are. Well spotted!--deckert
Cable strippers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: trevwhite
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2013, 11:36:48 am
content: Hi all, can anyone recommend a good cable stripper tool. There seems to be loads out there but I have no idea how sharp or durable any of them are.ThanksTrev

author: Dagon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2013, 11:52:28 am
content: Look here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/high-quality-wire-strippers-what-to-buy/

author: trevwhite
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 05:33:39 pm
content: Thanks

author: americanhacker1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 30, 2013, 04:49:27 am
content: Here's a decent pair from my old friend AndyMark their not insolated but work wellhttp://www.andymark.com/FIRST-Choice-p/fc13-115.htm

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2013, 06:25:16 am
content: The linked thread will provide a lot of information, as will others if you search.Keep in mind though, there are vast differences in price and types, so budget and wire sizes being used would be helpful.
HAKKO FX-888D International Pricing.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Sebzy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 10:47:53 pm
content: Was recently in the market for a new station and chose the FX-888D based upon a lot of recommendations.Ended up paying €157/$201USD here from the only supplier in Ireland.Just wondering what prices people are paying for that model in different country's. I'm guessing we're getting ripped off here as usual.

author: jpb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 11:23:51 pm
content: Dancap is the only supplier in the UK. Their price is around the same. £98:98 + £10 postage + VAT = £130:77 = 155 euros.I ended up buying the more expensive Ersa i-Con nano as there wasn't much price difference.I think prices in Europe are even higher for the Hakko - well over 200 euros as there are no official suppliers except in Holland.Hakko is a good buy in the US but over this side of the pond it is not so clear cut - their prices are up near the good European makes.
SMD tweezers with a serrated tip? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2013, 05:17:40 am
content: Just curious if they exist - and if they do - are they useful - and if so, where to buy them? I recently heard some talk of them - but can't find them for sale anywhere - not in SMD sized.It seems as if some precision scoring on the inside tips of most SMD tweasters might "bite" into the tin(?) end caps a bit better of passives like 0805's - I've been loosing one in a 300 from slippage. "BING" - and they fly across the room. Not a big deal - but still worth my 2 seconds of time.(And yes, I have some nice tweezers - I have about 20 pairs - every time someone says "these are the best" - I buy them. Yes, my technique is fine. Just asking about if they exist or not. And yes, I thought about hitting them with sand paper - Simple question - thanks!)

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2013, 07:04:44 am
content: I don't know about properly serrated tips, but I thought the same thing about a year ago.Grabbed some 1200 grit wet/dry, made a couple of light passes at the very tip of the tweezers perpendicular to the ends.Seemed to help out a bit...both with the meter tweezer leads as well as the parts-picking-up tweezers.I gotta wonder what I did to the coating or "plating" at the tips though...if they'll corrode or what.I wonder if it'll come back and bite me in the ass a few years down the road...

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2013, 07:18:56 am
content: Quote from: Skimask on March 26, 2013, 07:04:44 amI have done this at the tips using a very tiny amount hot glue, put only small amount at the inner sides on both or sometimes one side also good enough, and gently heat the tip from outer side using hot air so the glue melt and forms sort of very thin coating, works very well.The best part is, if the coating is ruined or chipped/cracked, just clean or scrap it of using cutter or sometimes just a reheat might smoothen the coat like new again.But remember this tips are only for handling cold components, not for yanking out smd when desoldering.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2013, 09:28:19 am
content: Quote from: george graves on March 26, 2013, 05:17:40 amI've never seen any specifically made for SMD with serrations, but there are styles with a single notch/groove in them for this purpose.Check out Ideal-tek's catalog (.pdf).http://ideal-tek.com/upload/Catalogo_2012_bassa_risoluzione.pdfQuote from: Skimask on March 26, 2013, 07:04:44 amIf they're made out of a good quality Stainless alloy (S, SA, NC) or Titanium (TA), the metals are corrosion resistant and should be fine so long as you don't happen to expose them to their particular chemical "Kryptonite".
Where can I find a power supply jumper-bridge - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rvmeush
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 02:44:24 am
content: I have a couple power supplies but none of them has the metal strap used for grounding one of the power outputs. I've looked all over the place with google but could only find the attached picture to show what I'm looking for. Can anyone tell me where I can get these straps?

author: Len
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 03:54:59 am
content: Looks likeMouser has what you want.
Vintage LED-Calculator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ResR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 04:45:38 pm
content: Teardown of vintage LED calculator. It has LED chips that has glowing regions of 660nm LED-s in 7 segment arrangement. Powered by 6F22 9V battery. Made in Malaysia.It has a faulty last dot segment, that sometimes works, sometimes dosen't, but due to the age of it I think it's normal. Otherwise it functions fine.Edit: It's a clone of Novus 850 and two segments doesn't work well.
Question about disassembling power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rvmeush
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 12:59:53 pm
content: I'm trying to disassemble my Instek GPS-3030DD power supply to check for damage. This supply is similar to numerous other brands - at least in the appearance of the front panel. I want to take off the front bezel but I'm having some trouble getting the knobs removed. I didn't see a set screw holding them in place, so I tried pulling gently on them but they didn't budge. I don't want to damage the parts, so can anyone tell me the correct way to remove the knobs?

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 01:24:03 pm
content: Very carefully - they are sometimes brittle (though not usually too bad if they aren't old) and just held on by friction. I would slide something thin and rigid under two sides and apply force evenly, straight back towards you. Don't apply force at an angle, and don't squeeze them. Wiggle just a tiny bit to help break them loose.Do you have to remove them, though? They might not be mounted on a PCB - often they're wired. Can you just unplug them and leave them attached? I try to never remove knobs unless necessary.

author: rvmeush
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 01:33:01 pm
content: The front bezel is cracked and I wanted to get it off to examine it. It seemed as if the knobs would have to come off in order to remove the bezel. I looked online for instructions on how to do this but couldn't find anything, and thought someone on the forum might have experience with this.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 03:19:57 pm
content: There are a lot of ways it could be assembled. Can you take a picture of the back side of the panel?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 03:34:55 pm
content: A piece of plastic strapping slid under the knob then pulled firmly always works for me.

author: rvmeush
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 01:54:41 am
content: Quote from: c4757p on March 21, 2013, 03:19:57 pmI have attached pictures of the front panel (the crack is around the fine Current knob). I have also attached several pictures from the rear of the front panel, but I'm not sure they show enough to determine how to remove the panel.
Weller WSD 81 tweezers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mbqwerty
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 04:49:07 am
content: I got a Weller WSD 81 soldering iron station with an 80W iron a while back and was wondering about getting some tweezers for it. Does anyone know what tweezers will work with my base station and if they still make them? I have only found the tweezers for their newer stations.Thanks,Mason

author: Balaur
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 02:33:56 pm
content: Frankly, I've never found tweezers to be very effective or helpful. I'm using the hot air station way more frequently.Otherwise the rather common WTA50 (as many other accessories) is compatible with WSD81

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 07:05:02 pm
content: Weller WTA50 tweezers are the correct ones for your station. Rather pricey, but you can still get them (they sell a kit = tweezer + stand, but they also sell everything separately, which will cost more). Newark carries the set for $227.00 + shipping (they have 3 in stock).http://www.newark.com/weller/0053313399/desoldering-tweezer-set/dp/14C3479

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 07:34:36 pm
content: +1 for hot airMy OKI thermal tweezers look nice but Hot Air is far easier to use.Fraser

author: mbqwerty
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 08:45:01 pm
content: What would you all suggest for a decent hot air station?I see that Weller makes a hot air pen for a different station (HAP1). Could I use that and an aquarium pump or regulated air with my station even thought the pen is 100W?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 09:05:01 pm
content: Hot Air Pens are limited in their use. IMHO you would be better off buying one of teh competatively priced Hot Air stations from Hakko, KADA, Aoyue, Xytronic or other similar Clone units. The nozzle sizes available will cover anything that you decide to work upon without the limitation of low power as found with hot air pencils. The '852' models are a common hot air station. A Google search will present you with many different versions at excellent prices. They are now so cheap as to be almost disposable if they fail. Heaters are a common consumable but cost less than US$10 to replace.Fraser

author: mbqwerty
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 12:15:38 am
content: Thanks for the input.
3G Router Mini Teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Finder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 07:37:51 am
content: Hello everyone I made a mini teardown of a Sarian 3G router. It can be found from thislinkAny suggestions are welcome.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 08:37:56 am
content: Anything wrong with it, other than somebody upgraded or the PSU died.

author: Finder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 08:42:53 am
content: Actually don't know yet haven't tested it, I presume someone upgraded and then threw it away. Need to write another post about testing it later today.
Teardown of an inexpensive LED bulb - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Bryce
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2013, 07:54:31 am
content: I did a review and teardown of an inexpensive LED bulb, the Viribright Benchmark 8W. Mostly did this for fun since I needed to examine it anyway for a project, and I hope this is an appropriate venue for a review of a humble lighting device. If not, please forgive my misunderstanding.I did some informal RFI and thermal measurements and posted a schematic (hopefully not too egregiously incorrect) of the bulb.Anyway, here's the link:review of an inexpensive LED bulb.

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2013, 08:40:08 am
content: That is well build. I have torn one apart once and it had only a resistor + capacitor voltage dropper, rectifying bridge and a cheap cap. And that was itSo the one you posted isn't that bad

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2013, 03:09:15 pm
content: I was going to say the same thing. It's not horrible, I've seen far worse.Thoght I have a feeling their design could be said to infringe on Philips remote phosphor patents.

author: Bryce
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2013, 05:22:59 pm
content: Yes, it's a pretty decent bulb for its cost. I have some concern about lifespan and endurance, but of course it will take quite a while to resolve those concerns one way or the other.I seems to me like it would infringe the 2007 remote phosphor patent too. Yet the yellow filters couldn't just be filters because there's nowhere else for yellow or green light to be coming from (as you can see in the photo, it's red and blue LEDs under there.)

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2013, 06:24:55 pm
content: Have those patents been tested in courts? I mean, basically all UV discharge based light sources are "remote phosphor".I wouldn't be surprised if you looked hard enough you couldn't find some speculation about the idea over a decade ago or more.
Kovea - Korean Soldering Station With a Difference - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Amarbir[Lynx-India]
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 08:59:18 pm
content: Hi,Few days ago browsing the internet i was taken aback with this design concept .Sure we have butane gas irons ,This goes a Step further .Specs Are :

author: Amarbir[Lynx-India]
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 09:05:10 pm
content: Phew ,Check this ->http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Soldering-Iron-Pen-Shape-HOSE-PEN-TORCH-KIT-/261064361593.Ordered one right away

author: ftransform
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 10:05:36 pm
content: I'd rather buy a 5$ pen, cut the ass off, epoxy on a hose barb, wrap some tape around the inlets of a blow torch and attach with tubing.40$ vs 10$ if you can stand the bodgery. I think a home made one can look pretty good though.