Genuine vs fake Hakko solder tip comparison - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2013, 09:36:17 am
content: By curiousity I bought two Hakko 936 knock off solder tips locally and just want to share the details compared to genuine article. These fakes are just about 1 or 2 dollars each, with one is labeled as "Hakko" while the other one using "Kaisi".Attached comparison shots with my spare genuine Hakko chisel tip type 900M-T-3.2D.01. Plastic Container.jpgTo be honest, if the fake one was using the same color background pattern, I think it will be quite difficult to tell. Plastic materials are practically identical.02. Laser Engraving.jpgThe genuine has the yellowish/brownish tarnish around the laser engraved texts, not sure why is that ?03. Inner View.jpgGenuine on the top with shiny and smooth untarnished copper surface inside, while the the middle one although using copper but has a rough surface finish, and very poor hole alignment, and the bottom "Kaisi", I don't think it has copper at all.Both fakes are a bit loose when sliding into the ceramic heater, while the genuine is tight fit.Although I didn't make any detail measurement, when comparing them, its just "feel" the temperature recovery is much-much better at the genuine one, not sure, maybe placebo effect ?

author: flolic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2013, 09:47:03 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on May 08, 2013, 09:36:17 amIt's not placebo, it's real. Tight fit of original ones and probably better base material (pure copper) makes all the difference. I have dozen fake ones and few originals, fake ones collect dust now... Difference is substantial.

author: TorqueRanger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2013, 10:19:20 am
content: I picked up a new Hakko iron from ebay that was suppose to be oem but in fact I do believe that it's a fake but a really good fake.. But anyways the tip was so fake and was very loose and never seem to get good contact and when I bought a single real hakko tip the difference was night and day for me..

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2013, 07:58:27 am
content: Thanks for the confirmation ! Look like these two fakes probably will never touch my solder anymore.I guess the loose contact with bigger diameter is intentional, probably for them to be able to fit into those fake ceramic heater which has higher tolerance on it's diameter.@TorqueRanger, if you have a 936 clone, suggesting to replace the ceramic heater with original one, they have large differences especially at the ceramic outer diameter, I have one of this knock off heater too, if I have a time, I will take a photos comparing between them.

author: Fsck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2013, 10:39:27 am
content: I bought a bunch of hakko tips off ebay, and (opened one of each) the lot of ~130 tips (I think, with packaging, they occupy about .5 ft^3 in total), the ones I opened perform similarly (that I noticed) to the single one I got with my 936.At less than 100$ for the lot, disposable (basically) tips!

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2013, 11:55:35 am
content: Quote from: Fsck on May 09, 2013, 10:39:27 amIts the performance of thermal recovery of the solder tip that matter, not just a hot tip.Is your 936 a genuine Hakko ? Even if you do, you only have one genuine tip that probably has been aged for a very long time that probably its now loose, and has a bad contact to the ceramic heater. I doubt you still remember how it feels like to use a tight fit genuine solder tip on a true Hakko ceramic heater maybe ? Again, assuming you're using genuine Hakko.Yes, I have those fake 936 solder handle which cost only $2 with a complete handle, tip, cable and connector that is ready to use. And after an upgrade with an original Hakko ceramic heater and genuine tip, its like night and day. I use this knock off handle with the original part upgrade as an spare handle when I have to switch between two different tips on a soldering job. Yeah, quite a bit awkward, but its much better than having to wait for the tip to cool down, dismantle it and install the another tip on a single handle configuration.If I have time, I will post a photos of comparison between the fake vs genuine 936 ceramic heaters.

author: Fsck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2013, 12:11:29 pm
content: it's genuine, bought from an authorized dealer in Canada. it also hasn't seen much use since it was replaced early (maybe a couple dozen hours total) on it's lifetime with a metcal. my metcal has 100s, probably 1000x more hours than my 936.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2013, 04:30:00 pm
content: Ah .. Metcal, thats a totally different league. Yes, I've experienced using it before at friend's lab, its awesome.I guess you must be so spoiled with the Metcal's performance for so long, that you just can't feel the difference anymore between the good and poor 936's grade soldering station.But seriously, even on a genuine tip, those uncoated pure copper inside will be corroded through time (very long time though), and gets loosen and forming larger gap from the heating ceramic element, that made even new fake tip will probably performs similar as the very old used genuine tip.My old genuine tip which I used intensively throughout for years has a darker surface and a bit of micro flaking surface inside, not smooth and shiny anymore like the new one as above photo.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2013, 03:57:26 am
content: Where's a good place to buy legit hakko 900M / T18 tips for a realistic price internationally?(I just bought a FX888)

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2013, 09:50:42 am
content: Just avoid dodgy fleamarkets like ebay or aliexpress for this kind of solder tips, its too risky. Only puchase from reputable online store or distributors, and for sure genuine tip price even the cheapest one probably above $5-7 per piece.The temperature recovery/regulation differences when using a genuine handle which has also a genuine ceramic heating element inside coupled with a genuine tip vs fake tip is really-really significant.I see at lots of people, the idea of using cheap large quantity fake tips like thinking if they're acting up, just throw them away and replace with the new one is flaw imo, and totally missed the point of original purpose of having a good temperature regulated soldering station, better get a cheap non regulated plain vanilla soldering iron.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2013, 11:08:30 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on May 10, 2013, 09:50:42 amThe legit stores around here all want $19-24 each for them, hence my desire to find somewhere else.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2013, 11:29:54 am
content: Here locally from authorised Hakko distributor (too bad no online store though) for 900M-T series ranging from cheapest about $8.5 like the popular chisel tip as above photo, up to about $19 for those weird shaped tip like 900M-T-1C.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2013, 11:54:28 am
content: Found somewhere locally that has them for $13.8 + gst which is a little better.http://www.tradetech.co.nz/shop/Tools+Cleaning+Products++Solder+Solutions/Hakko+Soldering+Iron+Tips/HAKTIP22.htmlAnyone got a recommendation for a good tip for general 0805 SMD and a little tqfp/qfn drag soldering.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2013, 05:33:41 pm
content: Thanks for making these, it should help many folks understand what you get for 5-20x the price of a clone versus a true Hakko. The fake tips typically go for $1-2 each whereas real Hakko tips now sell between $5-20 each, the more obscure the shape, the more costly it is.The real problem is paying the true Hakko price for a counterfeit tip, so be careful where you buy them. If you knowingly buy a copy tip for $1-2 its not so much a loss if it lasts for a few projects or you rarely use that particular shape, however beware that fake tips could damage a true Hakko ceramic heater, which is $20 expense; original tips last a long time, at least with old Pb-Sn solder.If you check the archives, you'll find an old post of mine with links to the patents for the unique alloy Hakko uses in its tips. This provides the temperature conductivity and longevity expected of the tip; its often why copies of the 936 mention it can use genuine tips and heaters.One can't tell much about the alloy looking at the photos but 3 things are important:The fit to the heater must be perfect to provide maximum conductivity without causing the tip to tighten around the ceramic so much it cannot be removed; also if the tolerance is too small or the alloy causes too much expansion, the tip could expand, crack and permanently damage the heater ceramic.The middle tip has an asymmetrical hole. This is not acceptable; it will cause uneven heating, heating the thin area around 4 o-clock in the photo faster than the rest of the tip. It will also wear away faster on the thinner side, which in a problem since the base of the tip doesn't really get used in soldering; its there to only conduct heat.Finally, there appears to be a small gap or crack in the middle tip, at about 4 o-clock. If so, this section may likely prematurely wear from oxidation and eat into the copper layer. If solder were to penetrate here, it would wear even faster.

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2013, 07:25:25 pm
content: Just be careful with using real heaters with fake stations, most are designed for thermocouple sensors and not PTC sensors in the original 936s (go bonkers or maybe not even work at all)

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2013, 09:24:21 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on May 10, 2013, 11:08:30 amWe usually buy ours from WES Components in Sydney.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2013, 11:29:07 pm
content: Any idea how much they charge? (There's a login/pass needed for their prices.)

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2013, 12:36:37 am
content: Quote from: Psi on May 10, 2013, 11:54:28 amMost people I've seen around when it comes to drag soldering at the xQFP tiny pitch pins have different preferences. Like Dave's video on SMD soldering tutorial, his prefers the thin and sharp oval tips like 900M-T-2C.My choice is 900M-T-K blade style, since the sharp & long blade part is much better for dragging across the pins while allow the solder to flow and spread evenly across many pins while dragging in a single swipe compared to narrower tip, and the very-very sharp pointy tip imo is almost unbeatable when it comes to clear out bridges among xQFP pins.Btw, another interesting fact that among 900M-Txx tips series, the 900M-T-K is the most efficient when it comes to heat transfer compared to others with that + 30 C delta compared to the 0 C reference tip for adjustment.My own observation and experience, this blade T-K is the most versatile and has the fastest thermal recovery and regulation. Marked the red boxed on the temp delta compared to 0 C reference tip.@Saturation,My pleasure, glad this helps.Mind point out which old is post that ? The forum's search results sucks while with your high post count, going through yours one by one is way too much.

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2013, 12:46:43 am
content: Quote from: Psi on May 10, 2013, 11:29:07 pm$10 to $15 + GST on average.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2013, 02:23:31 am
content: Quote from: T4P on May 10, 2013, 07:25:25 pmOf course, my 936 was made probably nearby your neighborhood.While ago visited a cheap electronic service shop and had experienced Atten, Quick and "Huakko"936 clone, it feels like using fake semiconductor in your circuit.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2013, 03:45:52 am
content: Speaking of irons, my old DSE T2250 station has a broken plastic bit.I just bought a new fx888 but would like to fix this since multiple irons are always handy.Does anyone know of any spare parts that would fit the T2250 iron.

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2013, 06:21:36 am
content: Quote from: Psi on May 11, 2013, 03:45:52 amMaybe Aoyue spare parts fit:www.ebay.com/itm/360641879460(but horrible shipping costs)The complete B001 or B004 handle might work, too.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2013, 08:01:01 am
content: Quote from: Bored@Work on May 11, 2013, 06:21:36 amUnfortunately not, i've got an Aoyue and they're a different thread.I plan to try the Hakko equivalent part when my FX888 arrives but i'm pretty sure it's different too.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2013, 10:40:54 am
content: Sure, here it is:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/ebay-soldering-tips-advice/msg170618/#msg170618If anyone has a used true Hakko tip that you'll discard soon [ mine are doing very well over 5 years old and still with barely any wear] and one of the clone tips they wouldn't mind sacrificing, if you make a coronal or sagittal cut of the tip to expose the interior metal to show how its construction varies for the whole length of the tip, as well as the thicknesses of the metals used. You'll need a dremel tool and a fine emery wheel to make a thin slice.Details:http://www.tequipment.net/HakkoLeadCompatible.htmlHow to, planes of a cut:Quote from: BravoV on May 11, 2013, 12:36:37 am

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2013, 02:44:07 am
content: Thanks for the link, impressive documents, this might take a while for me as average Joe to digest these metallurgy, high temp metal chemistry, thermodynamic, mechanical engineering, manufacturing technique and etc, damn, tons of topics involved in there.Quote from: saturation on May 11, 2013, 10:40:54 amJust curious what are you using for tip handling/cleaner in normal soldering usage ?Same here on my tip's wear, and I think its almost 4 years now since I switched from water wetted sponge tip cleaner to dry coil wires Hakko 599B, and once in a while when black roasted flux residues started to grow at the tip, a single dip in the grey paste Hakko tip cleaner and wipe it clean at the coil wires simply turns the tip like like new again.Although not intensively monitored, I reckoned when using dry tip cleaner is somehow decelerate tip's wear better than using wet sponge, whats your experience ?

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2013, 10:22:47 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on May 08, 2013, 09:36:17 amI have bought lot of hakko tips on ebay, all came with same packaging, and same background as your genuine one, blue/purple color.Only two of ten tips have correct engraving on the tip, all the others are engraved as your second one.But, i found something interresting about the packaging, the two that looks correct, the color on the packaging smears off if you use an alcohol swab, 7 of the 8 "fakes" does not smear at all, but one of them do.And, oriiginal or not, the one that came with my fx888d is not shiny at all on the inside, but it is engraved as your genuine one.also, one of the "fakes" are very shiny on the inside.. I wonder if one polish them, if they actually do shine up?, atleast, since the original one that came with the station, since it's not shiny, but it should be???All of these tips that was packed in hakko wrapping, is btw sentered, no misalignment on the hole for the heater.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2013, 11:30:56 am
content: Overall you needn't read the documents, just know that's all the extra stuff you get when you pay >5x higher cost vs a clone Hakko tip.I use the dry brass coil. I don't know if it truly is better, but I use the sponge for decades but not with a Hakko iron, a Weller; Weller tips would last a few years and since I didn't solder that much, just for prototypes, I presume sponges contributed to the wear or Weller tips aren't made as well; the Hakko is easily going on 5 years, and I don't use the sponge as the literature says its less stressful on the tip to use the brass coil; also brass coils are ready to use no water needed to use it, so its faster too and less maintenance.Quote from: BravoV on May 12, 2013, 02:44:07 am

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2013, 02:22:53 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on May 11, 2013, 02:23:31 amI don't live in china ya' knowQuick aren't cheap clones, they're actually decent quality.Huakko is the worst of the lot actually yes they are no competition to the real stuff but some get really close. My 2nd 936 has a thermal recovery profile closer to a FX-888Quote from: saturation on May 12, 2013, 11:30:56 amLess thermal shock for tips and faster recovery time (i.e none) but it is hard to clean but most of the time you just throw it away into the bin. Who gives a shit?Be careful of the ones that are flux-coated. I had one and it was a disaster == It did clean but it dirtied my tip constantlyAnd yes weller tips have short lifes and the tips i use are still Hakko original tips, those carbon deposits should be cleaned off using a fine grit dry/wet sandpaperThey keep accumulating on my tips

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2013, 08:50:28 pm
content: Yes, no sponge avoids thermal shock.I have the original Hakko brass coil and find it keeps the tips super shiny and clean; I think it does have flux on it, maybe the key issue is how much flux.Its best not to use any kind of abrasives on the tip, being unclean looking is not an issue if the tip works well. Abrasives can erode the already thin protective coat, that's what the brass coil was supposed to provide: a safe buffing surface to avoid injuring the tip coatings.Quote from: T4P on May 13, 2013, 02:22:53 pm

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2013, 10:38:21 am
content: Quote from: Psi on May 11, 2013, 08:01:01 amYay, my FX888 arrived and the part fits on my old iron perfectly.I just when to tradetech and bough a new FX888 part for $10. Now i have 3 working irons.

author: carpelux
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2013, 02:20:48 pm
content: Just for information, the swedish distributor Elfa Distrelec has a big sellout on hakko original tips on their webshop right now. About 85% rebate om some items. All prices is in Swedish crowns SKR. 1$ equals approx 6.5 SKR.https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~se_en/elfa/init.do?sq=hakko&cat=0

author: gmaslin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 05:36:38 pm
content: For those of you that have genuine Hakko irons and bits, how much play is there when you slip the bit on? I just picked up a Hakko Chinese clone and noted the relatively loose fit of the bit on the iron with a Hakko genuine bit. Does anyone know the internal hole spec of a genuine Hakko bit or clone bit? Also, how much does the metal of the Hakko bit expand under heat and is there any difference in metal between the genuine and the clone bit?

author: gmaslin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 10:45:17 pm
content: Excellent information on the bits. It makes me glad I registered and asked. The only thing I could have wished for is more information on the tip fit in practice. I got a laser light ruler (projected) report of 3.96-3.98mm on a sample of 6 clone bits. If they are drilled SAE, my guess is that this is the tolerance of a 5/32" hole. If they were cut metric at 4mm, I doubt they would be undercut that much. From what I have been reading, ceramic doesn't really expand so the bit may be designed to fit a little loose cold and expand tight with heat. Obviously, too much air will slow heat up time so it would be good to calculate the air gap. Would you please measure the heating ceramic circumference?

author: johansen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2014, 11:42:13 pm
content: tight fit doesn't matter much when its all T^4 thermal radiation transfer.take the tip off and watch it glow red/orange in air.. think its any cooler in side the tip?anyways the cheap tips aren't worth buying.I have access to a lathe, if anyone wants solid copper tips i could make money selling them for 1$ each.just need to figure out how to nickel plate them. sure, they will corrode and you'd better take them off the ceramic element every 20 hours to make sure it doesn't stick to it.

author: gmaslin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 12:10:21 am
content: I'm not saying it won't get to temp but it won't be as responsive with all that air. It could be that the air is there by design that's why I'm asking about the fit. When I put the bit on my iron (before I lock it down with the bezel), it spins freely and feels like 0.5mm of air on the sides. Just trying to gauge what's normal so anyone that's ever changed a bit on their iron should chime in.

author: johansen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 01:26:57 am
content: short answer is the thermal capacity of that thin ceramic tube is negligible. and so is the heat conduction through the .01" of free space.

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 02:32:10 am
content: Hi all, I use various real and fake tips with damp sponge for more than 10 years they are all still in operation today. I am quite a heavy user i go through roughly 500 grams solder every 3 years.It's not just nickel plate, it has to be Iron plated which is the most important layer of all to prevent copper tip from dissolving. Iron plating seems rare at least in developed countries. I know a few in India and China.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2014, 04:53:43 am
content: I use a cheap iron and a nice Weller, and the tips always get put on using a thin coating of anti sieze compound, mostly a copper based one. That way when you want to change one in a few years it will come off. Will smoke for the first few minutes when fresh, but just place in a window with the holder till the smoke clears. After that it is a dry powder and still does the job.

author: AlxDroidDev
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2015, 09:17:30 pm
content: I found this side-by-side comparision photos of fake vs. genuine FX-888D:https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByYSbmc9YE-cY0lCanJQM1RGclU&usp=drive_webI was worried that the FX-888D that I bought on the last "Black Friday" could be a fake unit. It arrived today and all evidences tell me it is a genuine unit.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2015, 11:01:15 pm
content: Thanks for photos, can be hard to tell at first glance without side by side comparison.Most importantly is the heating signature during startup and under load, which you can't know or test unless you have one.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/hakko-fx-888-soldering-station-discontinued/30/

author: Sjokolade
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2015, 01:27:05 pm
content: Quote from: AlxDroidDev on December 02, 2015, 09:17:30 pmThat side by side comparison is not correct, the FH-800 iron holder got its grounding marks and the projections for grounding terminal 3 years ago so there is at least 2 different FH-800 iron holders.I did upload a picture of mine holder in the orginal thread -https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/fake-hakko-fx-888d-vs-genuine-photo-comparison-short-video/msg565208/#msg565208

author: AlxDroidDev
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2015, 04:46:08 pm
content: Quote from: Sjokolade on December 03, 2015, 01:27:05 pmHardly a unit being sold as new will have those marks.Besides, since the FX-888D was released on December 2012 (thus almost exactly 3 years), chances are they were already released with the new version of the FH-800, with the grounding marks, from the very first batch.

author: Sjokolade
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2015, 05:05:34 pm
content: Yes, some FX-888D was not sold with the new updated FH-800 iron holder - just like in my link.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2015, 09:13:36 pm
content: my 888d does not have those marks either, bought january 2013. It also looks like the one marked as fake, black inside the bottom.Don't use it anymore, but remember that the handle didn't sit too well in it, and yes, it is an original, atleast sold so by the official hakko supplier in Norway

author: YU2
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 29, 2016, 05:27:49 pm
content: 10 pieces that come in a small kind of a hard material clear plastic bag, very good overall quality, thick nickel padding, nice thug fit to original hakko heater and good thermal conductivity. Better than other chinese tips I have tried.Bought mine on ebay, cant find link there now but here is how that bag looks (mine where different types):http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lot-Free-Shipping-HAKKO-900-Series-Welding-Eletrical-Hand-Tool-Soldering-Iron-Tips-900M-T/1394624085.html

author: vindicator
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 04, 2016, 11:14:30 pm
content: I bought my station 7 years ago and my purchase order from omnitronelectronics says it's VTSS20U, but the manual says ZD-929C.Omni search doesn't show VTSS20U, and shows 2 pages for the same ZD model:1)http://www.omnitronelectronics.net/phpstore/html/ZD-929C-ESD-SOLDERING-STATION-DIGITAL-READOUT-1251.htmlSearching for the tips (ZDT-929N1) on the site results in nothing.2)http://www.omnitronelectronics.net/phpstore/html/ZD-929C-ESD-SOLDERING-STATION-1478.htmlSearching for the tips (N1-16) CAN be found, but $15 shipping seems a "tad" high for replacement tips.Contacting omni through their site resulted in NO communication.I then contacted Velleman to see if they could offer any information on compatible tips, but the communication, while there, was pretty bad.I gave him an image to the station I have which is close to the 20U, but with a digital display and black.His reply was simply offering the ZDT tips I showed above which are non-existent on omni's site. That made it clear this was going to go nowhere. I ended up thanking him for at least contacting me, but it was of no help. I also explained what my issue was with his help and that it seemed like he was pulled of the street for a sales position with a catalog placed in front of him and no knowledge of competitors or the field.In another reply, I linked him a picture of the 20U Velleman station, but under a Duratool name (ZD-929B). It seems clear something is wrong somewhere. Like these are all "cheap" knockoffs of each other and rebranded under different manufacturer names or something (you'd think the tips would be compatible across them all).I also had a live-chat with a Hakko rep today on their site which resulted in nearly the same type of conversation.My frame of mind is that you want to know your competitors and maybe offer compatible tips (expand your reach) for those looking for quality or price (akin to inkjet printer cartridges).I will be the first to say I'm something of a newb. Even though I've had the station for 7 years, my soldering needs are pretty rare. The most recent thing I tried to do was desolder a bridge-rectifier from my failed induction cooktop, but the solder didn't budge at all (even at nearly 500C (yes C)). It was so hot, I could hear a cracking sound coming from somewhere.I don't think I ever tinned my tip and now the solder just slips off the tip. I can even roll the tip around a fallen ball of molten solder and it behaves like oil and water. There is no coating of solder at all, even at just above melting point. I'll even turn off my station and roll around the ball as the temperature drops and it still never coats.I even bought a tip activator/tinner, but that didn't help. I didn't want to use my grinder, though did try using the plumbing sandpaper I have on hand because of warnings I have read.An interesting difference in my tip vs those I see elsewhere (like on ebay) is mine has some gritty coating like I'd see on galvanized screws/nails (http://www.kitsusa.net/phpstore/images/products/large_1398_N1-L280.jpg) (oh, yes, omnielectronics also goes by the name kitsusa. Omni is also where I bought most of my stuff when starting out like a breadboard kit and circuit introduction book).http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duratool-Soldering-Tip-1mm-D01845-N22-1-/121634485254?hash=item1c51faf406:g:SjAAAOSwvgdW2coYAnd then you have some strange tips that appear to have a solid core:http://www.ebay.com/itm/40W-Soldering-Iron-Tip-Solder-Rework-Station-Tool-65mm-Long-2pcs-/321915597521?hash=item4af3aa32d1:g:4JsAAOSwoBtW6SVbThe only thing I can guesstimate is the tip shaft is 65mm and maybe the tip is 4mm for a 40w (48W) station.The tip that came with the station has a filler piece of metal to make a snug fit to the heating element (I assume that is typical).Is there any guidance/insight someone can offer to my plight?

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2016, 02:50:38 pm
content: Quote from: vindicator on April 04, 2016, 11:14:30 pmtldr I went to Mercedes dealer and ranted about their sales rep not knowing anything about Fiat parts ...edit: actually: I went to Mercedes dealer and ranted about their sales rep not knowing anything about TATA counterfeit of QQ counterfeit of Fiat parts ...your station is a shitty clone of Elenco SL-30A clone of Solomon SL-30Solomon is a solid station, elenco clone is passable, clones of clones I dont know, tips readily available on ebay <$10

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2016, 09:31:42 am
content: Quote from: vindicator on April 04, 2016, 11:14:30 pmNothing to do with fake Hakko tips? Start a new thread if you need help.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2016, 10:39:40 am
content: Quote from: Shock on April 06, 2016, 09:31:42 amto be fair he suspected it to be a fake hakko, while it was a fake fake of solomon

author: vindicator
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 10, 2016, 11:11:20 pm
content: Quote from: Rasz on April 05, 2016, 02:50:38 pm(I see I had to manually set notifications. Sorry it took so long.)Thanks for that heads-up about Solomon. It would have been great if Velleman or Omni (or hakko?) would have told me they were clones of each other (or rebranded solomon).I did see Solomon as another name in my image-matching searches, but had no idea which one was the "real slim-shady".Note that neither 7 years ago, nor now, would I know what stations were original/(not clone). You could have easily fooled me by saying that Velleman was the OEM, and I could have bought into it based only on the expectation that you all seem to know what you're talking about.I had a need to solder at the time, shopped around and saw a station that looked good and at a much better price than anything else that looked similar. It didn't have "cheap clone" stamped on it anywhere, and it worked just fine when I used it, though I have nothing to compare it to.You've given me a huge direction to go in with the Solomon reference.On the other point, I still stand by my assertion that I would think a company might want to produce replaceable items for competitor products if they can undercut the competitor or produce a higher quality replacement item. Or they could even say their products are better than <competitor> because of <point1> and <pointN>. After all that's what the mobile phone services (try to) do.It isn't like I'm saying a bicycle sales person should know what parts make up a rocket or what ingredients go into vichyssoise. I could see that being a bit outlandish.

author: lsheng
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 28, 2016, 09:52:55 pm
content: I measured fake hakko 900M tips and genuine hakko T18-D16 thermal resistance form heating core to the tip. The difference is Very large. The way I did is using a power meter to monitor soldering station power consumption which is proportional to heat output if you deduct all power used for controlling circuit. I used Yihua 853D soldering station which seems digitally PID regulating duty cycle on the heating core and gives smooth power reading.I set the temp at 200C(real temp is close to 215C), and used different tips to dip tip of soldering iron into water, observed power increase in the process. Since the tips made water evaporate, the tip temperature is set to 100C, between core and tip the temperature difference is 115C.With hakko T18-D16, the power increase is 24W, with similar shape fake tips, the power increase ranges from 5W to 9W, so the thermal resistance is between 3 to 5 times. This means that Hakko tips get at least 3 times faster thermal recovery speed. The hakko T18-D16 thermal resistance is around 5C/W(to make full 60W of thermal output, you need temperature difference of 300C). Since thermal capacity between real and fake is mostly less than 50% judging by their dimensions, the real experience may not be that bad as suggested by thermal resistance alone. Unlike some believed, the fake one I got are also made from pure copper, but the craftsmanship is rather poor, there are various air gaps between the heating element and the tip. I also did an experiment that I put some metal foil(aluminum and stainless) around heating element, as well as a small piece of solder inside iron(melted when hot to fill all gaps inside), after this even a fake tips can make power increase to 22W, close to real Hakko, and also performs like real Hakko tips too. But this mod is inconvenient as you may fuse the tip onto heating element. By the way, I believe the heating element is not genuine Hakko, but I feel it is good enough.

author: johansen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2016, 04:59:38 am
content: water has a highly non linear thermal conduction and boiling rate, so i would repeat your experiment with some other method.some of the cheap tips have a metal sleeve inside them, it is not bonded to the inside of the cylinder where the heating element goes, it can be pulled out. i would expect the thermal resistance to decrease if you pull that sleeve out. a legit tip would have the chromium coating or whatever it is, electroplated to the copper to prevent the copper from corroding.

author: P90
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2016, 03:47:53 pm
content: These reviews are bogus, I bought some to check, they are fakes...https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C6Y4KWQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8