hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Please advice test leads for Keithley 2015 DMM - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: msraya
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 02:17:15 pm
content: I get a 2015 THD DMM in ebay.. I don't have it yet, I'm waiting for it to arrive... I hope it works well.In the meantime, I need a good pair of test leads, not much expensive. I think I can get a pair of pomona from ebay...Or perhaps call Tek and inquire a good original pair of test leads?Thank You Think?This is my first bench multimeter, I have a good Brymen BM867.I have used not much a HP 34405A 5.5 digits bench MM at work...RegardsManuel

author: msraya
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 28, 2016, 08:33:17 am
content: Hello!!I search ebay and the forum and select Pomona 6365 for 24 euro shipped.Thanks All!!
HMO2024 scope connecting to HMExplorer via LAN - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: graan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 08:12:13 am
content: HelloI just bought a HMO2024 with a HO732 interface (LAN + USB) and have some difficoults connecting from the HMExplorer program to the scope via LAN.The webinterface works fine but when searching for the scope via the program it does not find it.I contacted Rohde&Schwarz support and got some instructions. I set up the scope according to the instructions but no luck. I can ping the scope and as said before the webinterface works fine.According R&S the scope should be setup for DHCP. Transfer Manual. I use port 1024.I get an IP adress and can ping it but no connection to HMExplorer./Andreas

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 10:14:13 am
content: How are your computer's firewall settings? Can you enter the IP address into HMEexplorer so it doesn;t need to discover the scope?I don't have this software but these are the generic things to check.

author: graan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 11:33:20 am
content: You enter the IP and port in HMExplorer and then press a refresh button. Then the program should find the scope.I work in a managed environment but the ports in the same subnet are not blocked, so that should not be an issue.We have different devices connected to our PC:s but I never had an issue connecting to a network enabled device.I also tried to connect via a switch direct to a PC on my desk , but no success.

author: nowlan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 11:48:41 am
content: Havent used myself. The manual seems to skip over, and faq only talks about usb.Might suggest TCP View (https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/tcpview.aspx), or failing that wireshark just to see what gets sent out, comes back.edit: could always try nmap, and port scan your device. See if port 1024 is open. Can also verify buy telnet <ip> 1024 at cmd prompt.

author: graan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 02:22:21 pm
content: I got it to work. I made two changes so I have to go back to see what change actually made it work :-)1) Upgrade HMExplorer from V1.5 to V1.6.92) Changed the port from 1024 to 5000

author: graan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 28, 2016, 07:03:19 am
content: Was the port so 5000 worked....but not 1024
Bird RF Power Analyst 4391A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Sparks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2016, 05:24:31 pm
content: Does anyone have experience using the 4391A digital wattmeter? Just got a new one for work and it doesn't give the same readings as my analog meters.

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 23, 2016, 06:12:52 pm
content: How different are the readings? Anything that uses the Bird elements is generally not super accurate. CW is +-5%, PEP is +-8% of full scale - that is a pretty big range.

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 12:31:05 am
content: HiHow far off are the readings and what is your test setup? There are a lot of odd quirks in how some of this gear comes up with the numbers they report. For that matter, when was the last time any of the gear was calibrated and what was it cal'd against? In my case the Bird and it's slugs haven't seen a cal lab in many decades.Bob

author: Sparks
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 07:25:49 pm
content: While feeding in 27.5 Watts using a 250 Watt forward element the unit read 21W max. The manual says the forward power should be atleast 10% of the Forward element. It finaly read corectly shen feeding 33.5W. I tried multiple setups and found that if the antenna does not match the frequency perfectly, the meter reads extremely low, while analog meters read full power forward and reflected.

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 09:48:01 pm
content: Quote from: Sparks on June 27, 2016, 07:25:49 pmHiI believe that the accuracy spec is a "% full scale" number. A 5% full scale error spec would allow the 27.5 to read as anything from 15 to 40 watts and still be in spec.Bob
Latest and Greatest USA brand Amphenol BNC. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Rupunzell
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2016, 07:16:06 pm
content: Was wondering where the signal went...On the left, the current USA branded Amphenol BNC tee offering made in who knows where.On the right, decades old real USA made Amphenol BNC tee... that has been used in the lab for decades.Newer, current latest and greatest is always better no?Bernice

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2016, 07:32:48 pm
content: Does the male BNC end somehow screws in or is simply attached by pressure to the main pipe of the T?

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2016, 07:49:37 pm
content: Quote from: rsjsouza on June 26, 2016, 07:32:48 pmI don't think there's any screwing involved apart from the fact that the op is screwed...

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2016, 08:00:02 pm
content: Give you a hint, the only part made in the USA was the profit.....

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2016, 08:06:33 pm
content: Looks like the center conductor for the male connector was either press-fit or maybe spot-welded into the bottom piece and then the male connector was press-fit into the cylinder.Ed

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 03:10:17 am
content: Too funny! I was testing a new meter last week and had a T fail in a similar way. The side pulled out. Pulled it out of the trash for you. To be fair, I do not know the brand on this one. Looks cheap compared with some of the others I use.Added 2nd pic.Quote from: Rupunzell on June 26, 2016, 07:16:06 pm

author: Rupunzell
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 03:16:48 am
content: Yea, had to share this one.Dead out of the package too.Recently got a hp 5348A counter/power meter and wondered why input two (BNC) did not count. Problem turned out to be this BNC tee. 5348A works fine.Now back to those decades old made in USA adapters that continue to function as they should.Bernice

author: KE5FX
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 04:06:38 am
content: No point buying from Amphenol unless you need things like RoHS documentation. These days, they are just buying Chinese crap and relabeling it. You can do that yourself on eBay and save the markup.
Low Cost Vector Network Analyser (VNA) - miniVNA PRO vs VNWA 3E  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: cio74
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2016, 06:42:05 pm
content: Hello,Whilst still debating which SA to buy I have decided to get a hobby-grade VNA, basically any decent performance under £500 mark will do. I came across these 2 models:miniVNA PRO by minicircuits -http://miniradiosolutions.com/minivna-pro/VNWA 3E by sdr-kits / DG8SAQ -http://sdr-kits.net/VNWA3_Description.htmlThe above will be used for HF ham related radio projects.Any recommendation or major difference between the two? Has anyone tried both of them and can comment on performance and/or software capabilities/features?Perhaps a 3rd candidate?Thanks.Cio

author: Neganur
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 04, 2016, 08:36:28 pm
content: The radio club I visit has the VNWA 3E and people seem to be happy with it. The software crashes every now and then but I'm ready to blame that on the weird computer it ran on.Not sure I would be willing to put 600 EUR (plus shipping) on the table for it though.

author: orin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2016, 05:34:05 am
content: Quote from: cio74 on July 04, 2016, 06:42:05 pmI'd go with the VNWA3. It will go to 500MHz with 90dB dynamic range and 'better than' 50dB dynamic range to 1.3GHz.I have a VNWA2 so I'm slightly biased. I added a TCXO to mine so its specs are essentially the same. I've been quite happy with it. I built an RF-IV kit (http://www.makarov.ca/vna_payment.htm) and an S parameter test set (allows measuring S12 and S22 without reversing the device under test) from an SMA transfer switch. It was invaluable for tuning some low pass filters for an HF amplifier.There is a yahoo group for support that you might want to check out. groups.yahoo.com and search for the VNWA group. Support appears to be excellent through this group.Orin.

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 05, 2016, 07:01:10 am
content: I guess broken HP machines don't pop up locally too often in your area.

author: cio74
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2016, 07:28:52 am
content: Quote from: orin on July 05, 2016, 05:34:05 amYes, this is what I plan to use it for. They also claim is a basic SA for up to 100MHz, is that thing working on the v2 version and if so is it any good?Quote from: TheSteve on July 05, 2016, 07:01:10 amNot really, no, and when they do they are anything but cheap. I don't know what's going on but in the US it seems so easy to get used test equipment for a good price whilst in the UK/EU is so much expensive.

author: orin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2016, 09:53:38 pm
content: Quote from: cio74 on July 05, 2016, 07:28:52 amI haven't tried the SA. There is basic information in the help file that can be downloaded fromhttp://sdr-kits.net/VNWA3_Description.htmlAs they say, it's pretty rudimentary. I have an 8568A, so don't need the SA functionality.
UNI-T UT139C - measuring ceramic SMD capacitors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: mattek
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 25, 2016, 10:59:38 pm
content: Hello guys,I recently bought this awesome multimeter. One of the reasons for equipping with device is very big range of capacity measurement - it should even handle picofarads. Unfortunately, I have problem with SMD ceramic capacitors. After desoldering them with hotair and trying to check theirs value, multimeter usually shows random value, then LCD says "OL". Already checked manual and this means, that capacitor has short-circuit or its value is out of range.Anyone knows what could be wrong? Or am I doing something not properly?Thanks

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2016, 02:26:40 am
content: As you stated, the capacitors you are trying to measure may be outside of its range or shorted. For smaller parts you would need to use the REL mode. This was the last one I bought reading down to 150pf. I no longer have the 139C and can't tell you how low it could measure. Just because the manual shows a 1pF res, I don't think you are going to read 1pF with it.https://youtu.be/zFvuigSS2Xk?t=1011Quote from: mattek on June 25, 2016, 10:59:38 pm

author: mattek
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 26, 2016, 09:16:17 pm
content: Thank you for response.I figured out what was wrong - totally forgot, that measuring takes few seconds. Multimeter instantly says "OL" in REL mode (which I was always using, needlessly), but in normal mode it displays "dot" while checking value. In this moment I thought that something had gone badly. That's why I started looking for help here.In brief - did everything definitely too fast. Now I am able to check every capacitor I have

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 02:46:19 am
content: Glad you got it sorted out. It's not a bad little meter for the price. I ran a couple of them and they are one of the most robust handhelds UNI-T offers.
Tektronix TDS5104 Re-installation Software? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Testwall
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 02:20:12 pm
content: Hi,I currently have two TDS5104's both with failing HDD's. I can source replacement disks, however i cannot seem to source the re-installation software needed to rebuild the OS.If anybody has any links to download an ISO that would be much appreciatedThanksT.

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 04:25:02 pm
content: You could try cloning the disks into the new disksOr maybe asking nicely to Tek could get you the CDs (or whatever they use) mailed.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 04:47:47 pm
content: are they compatible with 71xx series ?the problem with those machines is that they have a hidden partition holding the Vxworks for the powerpc.the powerpc stalls the main computer until it has loaded its thing, then it lets that loose.and there are different versions of the motherboard, each with a different boot image ...

author: RCHRDM
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2016, 04:46:53 pm
content: I know this is late in the game, but the operating system software may be available from Tektronix, depending upon your serial number, for $79. The scope software is a free download.How do you like this scope?Richard

author: andy2000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2016, 02:37:00 pm
content: If they still work, you should clone the drives ASAP. Upgrading to an SSD with an IDE to SATA adapter isn't a bad idea.
Iwatsu Ts-8123 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: phaseform
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2015, 03:46:44 pm
content: Can't seem to find much info on this scope and I'm wondering what one's worth. I know nothing about oscilloscope brands and I don't want to buy a piece of junk for my first scope

author: Wuerstchenhund
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2015, 04:55:21 pm
content: Quote from: phaseform on September 16, 2015, 03:46:44 pmI guess you mean this one:It's an old 100MHz modular analog scope with storage tube. There isn't much information around for this scope but it's at least 30 years old, and unless you're into collecting old and somewhat rare test instruments it's not worth spending any money on, especially not as the first scope for a beginner. Aside from the fact that as an analog scope its capabilities are extremely limited, simply because of its age it will also be close to the end of its service life. And finding a service manual and schematics will very likely be a challenge, which you'll need to fix it if it fails (aside from a second scope!). Plus, I'm not sure but I vaguely remember that these scopes contain some proprietary components which these days are essentially unobtainium.In general, don't bother with an old analog boat anchors, unless it's free and works. These days very little money buys you a decent new digital scope, i.e. the Siglent SDS1072CML/CNL or the Rigol DS1054z.

author: phaseform
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2015, 11:31:22 am
content: ahh cool thanks for the heads up, I don't *need* a scope so I'll keep looking I guess.. Don't need more junk in the might-fix-one-day pile

author: nev23
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 30, 2016, 11:26:20 am
content: I have one of these, and it WAS free and it DOES work!.But I have never found a service manual for it.It does its job beautifully, and digital storage on something this old, at 100MHz, is amazing!My other scopes are also old (and working).Anyone got a manual for a HP 1806A dual differential 100uV plug in?
Need TDK-Lambda LS FM3 Power Supply Manual & Schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: mdbarg
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 19, 2016, 11:54:56 pm
content: Does anyone have a copy of the subject manual they could send me? I am trying to repair an old power supply and it is difficult without this information. I have tried TDK-Lambda's technical support for obsolete products, internet searches of many technical manual websites, and asked around, all without success. Thank you in advance!

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 12:14:01 am
content: Possibly, any model numbers under it. Eg. Ls51x, lr61x. X denoting a number.Is it a precision power supply? If yes, than yes.

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 01:08:24 am
content: Bump.Sending op a pm if they are unsure on the model.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 03:43:13 am
content: Perhaps theLambda manualspage on K04BB's site might be of some use.
DT830B  - opinion wanted - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: bon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 07:52:53 am
content: Out of curiousity I bought this cheap DMM (€4.00) for just fooling around. I benched it against my fluke 175 and it's okay, only 1 digit margin at the most.Google shows it looks like a DT830B although the pcb looks different. This one has 2 ceramic (?) fuses. What do you guys think when looking at the layout? Is this a descent one?2016-06-16_09-30-59bybon C, on Flickr2016-06-16_09-31-20bybon C, on Flickr2016-06-16_09-31-40bybon C, on Flickr20160613_123258bybon C, on Flickr20160613_123353bybon C, on Flickr20160613_123436bybon C, on Flickr20160613_123421bybon C, on Flickr

author: robert_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 02:49:10 pm
content: Quite surprisingly, thats the least crappy 830 ive seen so far.Honestly rated at 250V CATI, 10A range derated to 5A and fused, mA range also fused, and even a small PTC.Could be useful around the car or such, well away from mains voltage (as its CATI only).

author: System Error Message
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 03:22:13 pm
content: reminds me of a DMM i used to have long ago that randomly failed after a while.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2016, 04:18:23 pm
content: Hi Just thought I would share this picture of my DT830B. Sorry it is a bit blurry, tookit on my phone.I bought if from Maplins in the late 90s. As you can see, all through hole components. Build much better than the latest surface mount ones around now. Still fails on the safety issues brought up about these cheap meters. No fuse on the 10A. The 7106 COB seems to be on a daughter board - allowing replacement (as if it would be worth itHaving problems with the rotary selector on it now so have stopped using it.As to the originators question :No, not ceramic fuses. Just glass fast blow. Ceramic fuses are not transparent.Quite impressed with the 'quality' improvements to the meter :fuse on 10A, even wrapped the current shunt with some heat shrinkseperate board for the jacks (some of the latest ones are just soldering wries)PTC protection (on what ??)Leads seem to be better than the really cheap onesDO bear in mind the issues with safety :Avoid using on live mains - just not safe enough ( too little trace seperation, transistor tester exposes inards to outside which may be at mains V, no safety when switching to Ohms if connected to mains ( may cause meter to explode ), fuse is not HRC so may not contain 'explosion' for high energy, I am sure there is more)I used mine for many many years before upgrading.

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2016, 04:21:22 pm
content: It's a loot for 4 euros, same meter in china 1.2 USD
Multimeter A830L - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: sony mavica
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2016, 12:36:23 am
content: so my mate found 2 brand new Multimeters model is A830L in a dumpster today when chucking out some rubbishi wanted to know if anybody has used them before and would they be any good for just testing the odd thing here and there like batteries or caps ect

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2016, 12:55:15 am
content: I have a couple on my bench (different colour, same model) amongst others.10A is unfused.200mA is unfused except that the trace might blow out - there is an unpopulated fuse holder foot print.Does not auto power off.From memory it is I think the cheapest meter with a backlight available from China.> would they be any good for just testing the odd thing here and there like batteries or caps ectYes, no worse than any other cheap meter.

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2016, 09:44:27 am
content: It's a on the extremely cheap class, you can measure some things where you don't care about accuracy & safety The only feature is price no other than that
consensus on a victor megger? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: deth502
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2013, 03:08:06 am
content: i have an old amprobe hand crank megger. amc-2, or 3, or 4, i forget. looking to upgrade it to a new style that i dont have to crank, but on a tight budget.what is the opinion on these?:http://www.ebay.com/itm/VICTOR-New-Type-Digital-Insulation-Tester-VC60B-/220508865677?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33575a448di use it to test 14 pumps/motors 2x a year, so no heavy use. i know there are a lot of better ones out there, but this one fits my budget. anyone have any experience? it it worth trying?? better model for under $100?? just stick with the hand crank??

author: leonerd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 04:51:48 pm
content: (old thread I know, but...)I've just received one of these - bought it for £25 on eBay. It's not a bad unit.It's very "one-function" - it really is just an insulation tester. It does have a nominal 2k "continuity" test range but with a resolution of 1ohm, that's not going to be useful for doing things like earth-bondage tests. The DC or AC volt meter ranges also have a resolution of 1V, and I don't see any indication of "true RMS" on the AC side, so I wouldn't trust it any further than a binary "there's some voltage here" indicator. Also the sounder is terrible - makes a horrible noise and doesn't start up "cleanly" - it sounds a bit squeaky to start with. I'm tempted to try replacing it with a nicer one.That said the insulation test doesn't seem that bad. I tried it across a few 1Mohm safety resistors and it happily gave me a "1.00M" reading. I tried it across some new cables, and read open-circuit up to 500V. I tried shorting the leads (via a tiny piece of wire just in case) and it didn't blow up - it indicated a short.So yeah; I think it does the job. It's really intended to do one thing, and it does that fine. One thing to keep in mind is there's no calibration certificate, and I'm not sure if it would fit any official regulations your country might have. For personal "am I going to kill myself using this equipment?" tests it's fine, but I don't know how far you want to trust it for anything that has official regulations or certification involved.

author: leonerd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 04:53:20 pm
content: Oh one other thing to add - this unit doesn't have a 1 minute timer. Most of the sensible tests to perform on insulation strength suggest holding the DC level for 1 minute and taking the reading at the end of that time. There's no onboard timer here, so you'll have to count that yourself.
-hp- 3403C digital true-rms voltmeter:  annunciator LEDs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 08:45:05 pm
content: My most recent acquisition is an -hp- 3403C wide-band rms voltmeter. I received it in operating condition (with one broken panel knob). The problem is the 3 x 3 matrix of LED indicators to the right of the digital display, for overload, AC-coupling, uprange, etc. Apparently, someone had cleaned the transparent plastic with a solvent, and all of the labels on the annunciator matrix have disappeared.The manual is available online at the manufacturer's website, but I could find no drawing or illustration of the physical placement of these indicators.If someone has a 3403C in good order, could they post the appropriate information as a 3 x 3 table?Thanks.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 08:56:43 pm
content: Quote from: TimFox on June 17, 2016, 08:45:05 pmI may be misinterpreting your request, but do you mean something like this photo?https://accusrc.com/uploads/images/img3048.jpg

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 09:08:10 pm
content: Thanks for the quick reply.Yes, the photo has what I am looking for (the 3 x 3 matrix) except that I can't read the top center and lower right labels in that photograph.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 09:18:20 pm
content: Looking at the service manual,http://www.keysight.com/upload/cmc_upload/All/3403C_True_RMS_Voltmeter.pdfsection 3-28 and 4-55, my guess is that the top center is RNG (range). You can easily test this by measuring something out of range.As for the lower right, let me look through the manual some more.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 09:30:19 pm
content: Lower right might be REM for remote. See section 5-31 of service manual.

author: gusnovak
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 09:47:31 pm
content: the letters are in a second layer attached to the LEDs, look if the plate is falling within the voltmeter

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 09:49:51 pm
content: Cool, I was right by process of elimination.

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 10:19:47 pm
content: Quote from: gusnovak on June 17, 2016, 09:47:31 pmI'll check for plate tectonics this weekend. Meanwhile, between these replies, I have the information if I need to make my own label.Thanks to all.

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2016, 09:58:26 pm
content: Unfortunately, there is no label plate bouncing around inside the unit.I shall try making a replacement with laser-print transparency sheet material.
Hp 34401A ADDR 23 Error - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: henas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2016, 09:44:19 am
content: This Hp 34401a is my resent eBay acquisition. When turned on all segments lit and the unit gives one beep followed by “ADDRS 23” error. After short delay it goes back to all segments lit and followed again by “ADDRS 23”. This ~1.5 seconds cycle goes forever.When Self test is invoked; first starts with beep and "Testing.." then relays click, after short delay the unit displays “Test Fail”. The “Test Fail” message is followed by all segments lit and “ADDRS 23” in never ending cycle.I checked voltages: both 5V and +/- 18V all within spec and clean. 15V is OK and -15v is a bit lower -14.37V. No overheating. All caps OK, except for one with slightly higher ESR. It has been replaced but this didn't make any difference. I red about possible display fault as not communicating with main PCB properly.Serial number starts with 31 so I assume this unit was manufactured in 1991.Anyone had this problem?? Any input greatly appreciated.

author: plesa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2016, 09:56:00 am
content: Try to read error from remote interface by SYSTem:ERRor?. Maybe the RAM or ROM needs to be replaced ( U501,U502 and most probably U503)

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2016, 02:52:21 pm
content: Could it be that something is wrong with the GPIB controller that is pointing to ADDR 23?I have never seen such an error on the 34401A before

author: henas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 10:09:29 pm
content: Unfortunately I don't have GPIB interface on my computer to send the command.I checked the reset line XPONRST and is set to high.Is there a way to isolate GPIB from the system? How can I determine if the display is OK?It appears my unit has older style display with one large IC.

author: simmconn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2016, 10:57:51 pm
content: I suspect that ADDR 23 is not an error message, it just shows you that the GPIB address is set to 23 as part of the start up process, then the unit reboots. I would check the ground-referenced power supply voltages for dips and the reset/supervisory chip to the MCU.

author: plesa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 12:00:22 am
content: Quote from: henas on June 20, 2016, 10:09:29 pmYou needs to have RS 232, SCPI commands should works. Problem can be to set the meter into RS232 mode instead of GPIB Adress 23.Based on fact that you are able to run self test I will also try to set to factory defaults.
Brymen BM235 (EEVblog) DMM User Manual - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2016, 08:14:01 pm
content: I bought the meter and thought I should read the directions. Alas, the only User Manual I have found is at Scribd and that costs money and/or I have to sign in from places I would never go (Facebook, et al).Anybody have a link to a freely downloadable .pdf?Thanks!

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2016, 08:35:23 pm
content: Found it at the EEVblog site where I ordered the meter.

author: kcozens
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 04:22:21 pm
content: The store page is athttps://www.eevblog.com/product/bm235-multimeter/.Near the end of the description, just after it tells you that batteries are included () is a line that says "Download User manual & Specs HERE" where "HERE" is a link to the manual athttp://www.eevblog.com/files/BM235-Manual-EEVblog.pdf
BWD 112 Sine and Square Wave Generator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2016, 08:25:00 am
content: Was recently gifted this. I managed to find the manual for the 112Bmodel variant, which is fully transistorised, but I couldn't find any data (manual/schematic) or photos for this model on the internet at all, so here is the first internet reference. I spent a few hours this afternoon tracing the circuit out.BWD was an Australian manufacturer. Not a lot of their stuff had tubes inside. This must have been amongst the first of their products. Anyway, it's a bog standard Wien Bridge sine oscillator with light bulb stabilisation. It's all tube apart from a Si transistor Schmitt trigger circuit which produces the squarewave output.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2016, 11:30:18 am
content: Drop Kevin a line, he's been very helpful when I've needed stuff.http://www.kevinchant.com/bwd.html

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2016, 10:34:42 am
content: I'm sure if Kevin had a manual for the 112 it would be up on his site. I've nutted out the circuit anyway, so that has my needs sorted. This thing isn't exactly high-level technology. Thought this might elicit an admission of nostalgia or two. This generators first and previous home was Regency Park TAFE (SA). I recall one lab from the period I was there with a few of these all dusty like and unused stashed on a shelf in a corner. By then none of the test equipment on the benches had tubes inside, though old stuff could still be found sitting in cupboards; obviously some sitting for decades before finally being put out for disposal.

author: radhaz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2016, 10:43:13 pm
content: Sure is a handsome beast.
Mastech MAS345 Calibration Guidance? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: JP16A60
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 02:45:38 am
content: I have a re-branded Mastech MAS345 DMM (Velleman DVM345DI) that is in need of a good cal, but I can't locate any reference materials for this [halfway-decent] meter. Lots of trim pots, but I've not yet become daring enough to just start twiddling them at random, since not every measurement type is blatantly out of cal.Any experience in calibrating these (or any relevant instructions/procedures)?Barring that, can anyone recommend a good trim-pot-twiddling strategy to determine what goes with what measurement?JPCincinnati, OHUSA

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 03:17:42 am
content: Quote from: JP16A60 on June 20, 2016, 02:45:38 amJust curious, what is out of calibration? DCV? ohms?QuoteSee this thread for hints ...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tekpower-tp4000zc-digitek-dt-4000zc-looking-for-schematic/

author: JP16A60
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 03:34:41 am
content: Quote from: retiredcaps on June 20, 2016, 03:17:42 amYes, both.QuoteSweet...just what the doctor ordered. =)JPCincinnati, OHUSA

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 03:37:51 am
content: Quote from: JP16A60 on June 20, 2016, 03:34:41 amHow much is DCV out by? How much is resistance out by?I don't think you will be able to calibrate ohms with trim pots.

author: JP16A60
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 21, 2016, 04:51:22 pm
content: Quote from: retiredcaps on June 20, 2016, 03:17:42 amYes, both.QuoteAfter a second look, ohms is not terribly off, I suppose--say 5% or so vs. precision resistors (DMMCheck Plus).DCV is off by about 20 mV at 5v reference (also DMMCheck Plus).QuoteMy HP 3456a does this, so...dunno?JP
BRYMEN BU-86X usb adaptor for BM869 problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: markone
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2016, 11:13:36 am
content: I was managing to write a simple NI Labview device driver for mine BM869S and it's usb adaptor but i'm stucked due to a problem in its USB HID profile.The BRYMEN BU-86X usb cable adapter does not come with a standard USB COM profile, as one would expect, but instead with a USB HID 1.1 profile that most of times is proven to be a huge PITA to implement in software.Anyway trying to import it under VISA USB enviroment using the NI-VISA Driver Wizard lead to an unsolvable point where the tools claim that the device descriptor contains an "Invalid Serial Number string".Well i spent some hours on that lurking on NI forums but it seems that the only way to overcome is to write an external intermediate code in form of windows DLL function.Hell, really does not seems a great deal for 50 EuroI wrote to BRYMEN support but the answer was that they provide the working "free of charge" logger program and for the rest it's up to the customer to develop it's cutom software.I would even agree but their USB adaptor should have a correct HID profile data set in it's FW and itdoes notappear to be.In attachment the error spotted during the NI USB device import procedure.If someone ventured in this, also with other programming language, please give some directions to solve that.

author: Redeeman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2016, 12:31:07 am
content: late to the party.I have successfully opened and read from this device using libusb and in java javax.usb(which I believe is just wrapped libusb too).worked fine

author: tomeo.gonzales
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2016, 08:45:49 pm
content: I'm new to programming.Can you show me a code example written in Python to read from BM869S using BU-86X adapter?Or please post your Java code (unfortunately I don't know Java)Thank you
Fluke 3000 FC wireless multimeter any good?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: The Soulman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 08:53:37 pm
content: Anybody used this and or one of its accessory's?The fact it clamed up to 20 metres range using Bluetooth is giving not much confidence, nor the crappytranslated (dutch) subtitles in the crappy films.Could use a meter like this though and it is reasonable priced, the pricing on the accessory's is different as to be expected.http://link.videoplatform.limelight.com/media/?mediaId=9271a00a131245e2bb1923b60746f321&width=640&height=360&playerForm=7a9ee93f70ee43efb3bfb19be1f8fcb2

author: CustomEngineerer
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 12:49:14 am
content: Quote from: The Soulman on June 16, 2016, 08:53:37 pmSorry, haven't used one so don't have any answers for you, but curious why this bothers you?

author: The Soulman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2016, 05:10:41 pm
content: Quote from: CustomEngineerer on June 17, 2016, 12:49:14 amBecause it is going to be used in a environment with a lot of RFI where typical (consumer) Bluetooth stuff is struggling with anything over one meter of distance,and because I buy fluke products for their reliability, so don't want to be dicking around with a unstable connection.Anybody uses this meter and have real-world experiences to share?
The Cheap and Easy Mod for Your Siglent SDS X-Series Scope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: MikeLogix
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 07:49:25 am
content: I have been using my new Siglent SDS2304X scope for a little while now. While I am pretty happy with my scope, there is one mechanical issue that has been bugging me since I first placed my scope on my bench. If your bench is above your head, as mine is (see image below), and your bench has a Formica or similar type material surface, then you have already discovered the bench surfing scope bugThis bug appears when you attempt to press a key, channel 4 button for example; and whoosh, the scope slides backwards.Well, after a week of dealing with the surfing scope, and having to use one hand to hold the scope, and the other hand to press a button, I quickly grew tired of this. The good news is, the fix is easy, cheap, and only takes a few minutes to install.I had a small sheet of some foam pad with sticky tape on one side. The foam pad I used was about 1.5mm thick which was perfect as I did not want to change to mounting angle of the scope. I simply cut a couple small strips of the foam and affixed it to the front feet of the scope (see attached images).Now I can go back to using one hand to make scope measurements without worry of the scope sliding off the bench.Hope that helps:)

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 08:56:52 am
content: Since I spotted thispostthread I've searched for a marine non-slip cloth that I've seen that would be perfect for "surfing" scope needs.It's an rubbery open weave cloth that when placed on a shiny surface WON'T slide.I couldn't easily find a simple link to a seller for us all however it's commonly found in boating stores or shipchandlers.Image from the web:

author: Jwalling
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 09:51:12 am
content: There is a similar material used for lining kitchen drawers. It's rubbery and comes in a roll.I've used it for my outdoor porch seat cushions which kept sliding off the chairs.Jay

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 10:41:27 am
content: Quote from: Jwalling on June 17, 2016, 09:51:12 amYep, further searching has found several styles and all manner of suggested uses:http://www.ebay.com/itm/sticky-grip-mat-rubber-floor-non-slip-dash-car-caravan-anti-rug-surface-white-/201472111040?hash=item2ee8ac71c0:g:QCkAAOSwp5JWUwsxhttp://www.didriks.com/Chilewich/chilewich-placemats/But the one I'm thinking of seems like a Con-Tact product.This one:http://www.walmart.com/ip/Con-Tact-Brand-Grip-Premium-Non-Adhesive-Shelf-Liner-Wishbone-12-x-4/34742822Cheap as chips.
Bonding testing with a Fluke 289 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: PBoden
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 03:41:40 pm
content: Hello,I am doing some shopping for a milliohm meter for my company. We need something that can test for the quality of bonding for newly installed static dischargers on aircraft. The range we need to measure is 20-50 milliohms. So, my question is whether or not the Fluke 289 is accurate enough at that range to warrant purchasing one.Thanks in advance for any info/advice!Paul

author: The Soulman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 04:28:47 pm
content: Although a nice meter it cant reliable measure down to milliohms, nor can any multi meter with just two leads.You really need four-wire measurement for this.

author: TiN
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 04:52:53 pm
content: Fluke 289 DMM is not a suitable tool for such low resistance. Dedicated milliohm-meter would be a proper choice, such as HP/Agilent 4338B, IET LOM-510 or similar instruments.

author: PBoden
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 05:29:34 pm
content: Ok. That's what I was afraid of. I was really hoping to be able to get the extra functionality for the money, though. Oh well.As for a dedicated milliohm meter, the two you mentioned are a bit more than we're looking to spend. I was looking at the BK Precision 310, the Extech 380460, and the Instek GOM-801H. Is there one of those that you would recommend? Or is there another in that price range ($400-600)?

author: The Soulman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 05:36:47 pm
content: Another option but probably above budget:https://www.gossenmetrawatt.com/deutsch/produkte/metrahit27i.htmAlso available in a nice avionics kit:https://www.gossenmetrawatt.com/deutsch/produkte/metrahit27as.htm

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 05:55:23 pm
content: The Metrahit 27M is slightly cheaper, but still over budget.http://www.gossenmetrawattusa.com/products/measurement/multihandheld/Metrahit27M.html
HP 3466A Ohms problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: downwind27
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 15, 2016, 08:29:23 pm
content: My 3466A will not zero out on the 2 and 20 ohm ranges, adjustment pot is at the end of its travel and it still reads 0.5 ohm - and its not the test leads. Anyone seen this problem before? The service manual is not much help because its low resolution and does not show the schematic in enough detail.
Why would you buy a Velleman HPS10 in 2016? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 05:39:21 am
content: /.

author: LA7SJA
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 09:48:03 am
content: Short answer! Walk away and forget it.Why?SPECIFICATIONS & PRICEMaximum sample rate 10MS/s for repetitive signals (2MS/s for single shot events)Maximum input amplifier bandwidth 2MHz ( -3dB at 50mV, 1V & 20V /div x1 setting)Input impedance 1Mohm // 20pF (standard oscilloscope probe)Maximum input voltage 100Vpeak (AC + DC), 200Vpeak-peak (AC only)Input coupling DC, AC and GND (GND for auto zero reference)Vertical resolution 8 bit + 1bit linearityTrigger modes Run, Normal, Once, Roll mode for 1s/div and slower timebaseLCD Graphics 64 x 128 pixelsSignal storage 256 samples with 2 memories, max. 125 samples visible (256 using X shift)dBm measurement (0dBm= 0.775V in 600ohm) From -73dB tot +40dB (up to 60dB with X10 probe) + 0.5dB accuracydBV measurements (0dBV= 1V) From -75dB tot +38dB (up to 58dB with X10 probe) + 0.5dB accuracyTrue-rms measurement From 0.1mV to 80V (up to 400Vrms with X10 probe) 2.5% accuracyPeak to peak AC range (sinewave reference) 0.1mV to 160V (1mV to 1000V with x10 probe) 2% accuracyTimebase range in 32 steps 0.2?s to 1hour / divisionInput sensitivity range in 12 steps 5mV to 20V/division at X1- 50mV to 200V/div at X10Probe calibration output Approx. 2KHz / 5VppSupply voltage 9VDC/ min 300mA adapter (unregulated) 12VDC if regulatedBatteries (option) Alkaline type AA or Ni Cd / NiMH rechargeable (5 pcs required)Charge current for rechargeable batteries 90mABattery life Up to 20h with Alkaline batteries (OFF or standby current < 500?A)I have a Scopemeter 105B II and the only time i use it is when I work on cars (checking crankshaft position sensor output....) and motorcycles or when there is no wall-power.Johan-Fredrik
Agilent U1232A teardown and repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: jitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 02:54:19 pm
content: The last addition to my small collection of multimeters was an Agilent U1232A.This one I got for free as it was "acting funny". The range switch would sometimes not select the correct range and it seemed to jump to a different setting instead. Strangely enough, the meter had passed calibration days before.A sturdy little meter that looks simple at first, and it is: turn it on and measure. But then you want to disable that silly melody it plays by default every time you turn it on and discover the setup menu has more settings than you can shake a stick at. The manual needs 20 pages to explain it.Useful extra: the white LED in the back, I've used this meter sometimes just as a flashlight.Tearing it down reveals that quite some thought went into designing it. There are only a few screws in the whole unit, and yet the pcb sits rigidly in the casing.

author: jitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 02:56:50 pm
content: More...

author: jitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 03:04:22 pm
content: The repair.Since the meter acted funny on the range switch, that's where I started looking. It turned out that the little pads on the pcb are spaced very closely together. Normally that's not a problem, but now the range switch had scored and pushed the pads out a little, and they could intermittently short circuit creating the strange reactions to the switch.The problem was solved by making some cuts between the pads, you can see them in the photo.Why the pads had been squashed out I'm not sure, but I did find that the range switch should clamp in the hole in the pcb, but one of the clamping tabs had broken off (also visible in the photos). I don't know if the person who was in there before me had caused that or it had left the factory that way. With that broken off clamp, maybe the pressure on the pads isn't even and some get scored and squashed. They weren't all as bad.A cheap fix, hopefully a long lasting one.

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 03:07:30 pm
content: In which dark alley do they hand out test gear that is acting funny?

author: jitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 03:10:03 pm
content: A really really dark one: the company I work for...The tech before me had looked at it and had not discovered the fault. He just scrapped it (economically) and ordered a new one...

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 03:34:09 pm
content: Quote from: jitter on June 13, 2016, 03:04:22 pmThanks for sharing the repair tip on this meter.

author: jitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 06:09:07 pm
content: Quote from: retiredcaps on June 13, 2016, 03:34:09 pmYou're welcome.You will like this meter twice as much as theVoltcraft ME-32as it has twice as many AAA batteries.