Confused about multimeters - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: JacobP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 05:29:18 am
content: Good evening everyone,(This is cross-posted from the Beginners area; it was suggested that it might be better to post it here.)I am fairly new to working on electronics -- I've tinkered on and off for a while, but I've been messing around with an Arduino and some very simple electronics and I'd like to start playing around with it more seriously (although still low-end hobbyist). I've been trying to make do with a multimeter I picked up at Lowes, but its really just not cutting it. The lack of a tone on the continuity tester setting alone is enough to make me want to replace it.I have spent hours over the last few days reading posts on this forum and watching Dave's videos, but I feel like I'm more confused that I was to begin with. Every time I find a model that I think would be a good choice, I feel like I run across another post explaining why it's a not a good option. I understand that in the low-end multi-meter market that there will be compromises, but I hope that I can find something that meets my needs.Here's what I think I'm looking for, although I'm novice enough that I'm certain there are things I'm overlooking.1) Reasonable accuracy2) A reasonably fast continuity tester with audible feedback4) Electronics use only -- no direct use on house power5) Auto-ranging6) Pincer clips (to attach to breadboard wires; I know these are probably a second purchase)I had it about narrowed down to the AM-510 or AM-520 (modest upgrade to get max/min). It seem to have the features I was looking for and was safe enough to use on household circuits down the road if I wanted, but then I read a review saying that the continuity testing was really slow.I would really appreciate some feedback. I don't have a strict budget; I'm willing to pay a reasonable amount of money to get an adequate tool, but I also don't want to pay for a bunch of features I don't need.Thanks!

author: Sairus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 05:47:40 am
content: 1)Reasonable accuracy2) A reasonablyfast continuity tester with audible feedback4)Electronics use only-- no direct use on house power5)Auto-ranging6) Pincer clips (to attach to breadboard wires; I know these are probably a second purchase)How about Uni-t ut61e?from china 40~50$

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 05:53:07 am
content: Why compromise? Get a Fluke 87-V.Cheap tools are no bargain.

author: samgab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 05:56:32 am
content: Check theFluke 17B+. It's a Chinese-made Fluke, but still pretty good for the price, which is around the $100 mark.Or, as has already been suggested, theUni-T UT61E(specifically the E variant) is pretty good for home hobby use, good resolution for the price point.Neither comes with the attachable croc clips, but you can always get them afterward, and until you get them you can use the little double ended croc clip wires that you can get a pack of 10 for less than $5.Edit: You might also give theOWON B35Ta check out, while you're at it; seems like it could be a good option for around the $50 mark (alligator clips for the test leads included!).

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 08:36:15 am
content: Quote from: alsetalokin4017 on February 07, 2017, 05:53:07 am...and you certainly won't get a bunch of features you don't need.

author: SingedFingers
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 08:44:40 am
content: I have a veritable ton of meters and my favourite is a circa 1983 Fluke 8021B. Manual ranging, no features at all. The thing is a joy to use and has a stable 10M impedance unlike some newer flukes. Grabbed some Pomona 5019A probes for it. You can grab one on eBay for less than a new Chinese piece of cack. Continuity is absolutely instant.I know it isnt auto ranging but I've used auto rangers for about 20 years and it's actually helpful to choose your range in a lot of circumstances without plugging a manual range button 10 times. My remaining auto range meter (Philips PM2425) sits in manual range mode all the time.I actually got rid of my Uni-T UT61E after buying the Fluke 8021. They're shit. mV range is unusable due to high impedance and poor engineering, continuity is slow and unreliable, 4mm sockets are shonky as fuck, the component test function has stupid stray capacitance, the counter is so low resolution it is useless and it eats batteries like a kid's toy.If you want pincer clips, look for Pomona 3782 minigrabber to 4mm banana plugs. They're great for breadboard/test. Expensive but worth it.

author: Sairus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 10:07:20 am
content: QuoteAre we talk about same DMM? UT61E continuity work up to 20hz.(i use mosfet as switch and FG)

author: SingedFingers
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 10:13:03 am
content: Yeah. It appears that there are a few different revisions of UT61E. Input protection varies somewhat. I'm not sure if continuity varies but mine was awful. It wasn't a probe issue as I tried it with some proper probes (not that crap that shipped with it).

author: crazyguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 12:26:54 pm
content: I have one UT61E, I would say UT61E continuity test response is very fasttested by TechnologyCatalystCan crappy probes hold back a good multimeter? The difference is surprising! - #0077

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 12:50:34 pm
content: I never tested my UNI-T UT61E's continuity function but I tried the one I have with some leads and agree with Sairus's video post. It's fast. You may not care about it's lack of a backlight, no temperature input and it's poor temperature drift but the input protection is typical of UNI-T's products. Many people write me that claim they never work around high voltages. ESD is common and they one thing that the UT61E does well is pass that high speed transient right into the controller IC. While you may be able to find a GS certified UT61E, I doubt very much that it addresses my concerns.The following spreadsheet has the continuity data for the meters I have measured.https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cXzYpIoyVm9QJUju4KXqM22CEQZP3_xwWvDyeVwxTy4/edit#gid=570637604One of the surprises was comparing the AM510 with the AM530. The 510 is pretty decent and has proven to be fairly robust electrically. I consider meters like this more for electrical work but from the sounds of it, you don't need much for features.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 12:58:10 pm
content: Quote from: JacobP on February 07, 2017, 05:29:18 amYep, you'll never get a definitive answer to your question as you stated it because the set size is too large.What's the MAXIMUM amount of money you are willing to pay for DMM? Put a hard number on it - $50, $100, $250 ... you are the only one that knows your budget.If you can answer that question then the answer can be narrowed down to the best-in-class meter for X amount of dollars which fits your budget. Else, this thread will go on for pages ...(well, it's likely to even if you do answer the budget question)

author: MrAl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 01:09:25 pm
content: Hi,Just noticed this thread and wanted to add a few things.One thing right off the bat...dont buy a meter that is 5 dollars (USD) and probably not one that is 10 dollars either.Prepare to pay at least 20 dollars (USD) or else you wont be happy.I have about 4 meters that were in the price range 4 to 6 dollars (USD) and they are all real junk. The ones i payed 20 dollars or more work pretty decently, and one i bought back in the 1980's still works pretty well.What you want to look for is good DC and perhaps AC resolution. If you plan to use a current shunt you'll need to be able to measure very low voltages like 50mv without too much trouble. If you only have 1mv resolution you're reading could be off by 2 percent right away. If you have 100uv resolution you are more at 0.2 percent which is good, plus whatever the actual tolerance is.It does partly depend on what you need it for too and how accurate you need it to be. For general purpose measurements 1 or even 2 percent is ok, but if you want to work with some things like for example Li-ion cells you probably want a meter that is spec'd better so that you can be more sure of the reading.It also depends what you would like the meter to do. Some meters can help check diodes, transistors, capacitors, and other stuff. One of my above 100 dollar meters does diodes, transistors, capacitors, and frequency. One of my 25 dollar meters does temperature F or C with a K type probe.So one of the things you have to decide is what you want it to do, in addition to the regular voltage stuff.Another point is the current range. Some meters only do 200ma, while others go up to 10 amps and still others go up to 20 amps. That's something else to look into.Last but not least is the price. You have to decide how much you want to pay for it. This is a tough one because you may want functions that add significantly to the price. You just have to weigh the pro's and con's of each function you need and the cost it will be and decide what you want to go with. It's a pretty personal thing even though it is a piece of technical equipment :-)I have one meter that goes for over 250 dollars USD. I needed high resolution and a lot of digits in the measurements so i had to get something that could do that, and unfortunately the higher the digit count the more money a meter will cost.

author: JacobP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 01:22:17 pm
content: Thank you all for the feedback so far!xrunner asked me to clarify my budget; I want to stay below $100 if I can.Several of you have posted about the UNI-T UT61E, but I can't seem to identify a US distributor. There are many sellers on eBay that have them, of course, but I don't know how to separate the good sellers from the bad.

author: daybyter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 01:26:42 pm
content: So your multimeter has a continuity buzzer, but it is not loud enough? Clean the tips of your probes with some fine sanding paper and then some alcohol. Usually helps with my 830 meters.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 01:33:10 pm
content: Quote from: daybyter on February 07, 2017, 01:26:42 pmMaybe he hasn't got a buzzer at all. Most 830s don't.

author: SingedFingers
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 02:21:27 pm
content: This is true.Also if you need to sand your probes, buy some proper probes!

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 05:19:47 pm
content: Then there is the EEVblog version of the Brymen BM235 for which you can find Dave's videos. Or this independent review (long):Available from Amazon with 1 day shipping. Have it Thursday...https://www.amazon.com/EEVblog-BM235-Brymen-Multimeter/dp/B01JZ1ADCOThey cost a bit more ($125) but they are very nice meters. I bought two and one of them is now my main bench meter. It works very well. And, yes, the continuity test is immediate (and the backlight flashes).I'm not really into $50 DMMs. I have one and it works well but it is a backup for when I need more than one measurement. Then there is my Fluke 189 - kind of the gold standard for DMMs. But it is out of production and was very expensive way back when.

author: daybyter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 10:51:14 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on February 07, 2017, 01:33:10 pmYup, but those usually don't have a continuity setting at all, but just a diode test? Since he mentioned the setting, I thought, that he might have a buzzer?A picture of the multimeter might be helpful here?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2017, 11:25:36 pm
content: Quote from: JacobP on February 07, 2017, 01:22:17 pmFWIW, you can find Uni-T all over eBay. For example, here's the UT61E for $55.89 shipped (link).You might also want to consider a pair (2) Uni-TUT139C's, as it would allow you to take simultaneous measurements, and still come in under your $100 budget, even after shipping (just over $35 per shipped).Nice little 6000 count meters; fast continuity, nice set of features, quick auto-ranging, and decent protections from transients.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 12:03:25 am
content: Don't forget about used meters. One of my backups is an old Fluke, I want to say it's a 29? I don't actually recall. Anyway I got it for free, I had to replace a resistor on the input and it's been fine since then. One of the things I really like about it is the diode test function will beep once for a good junction, continuous beep for shorted. My daily driver is a Fluke 87 and it lacks that feature, with the old 29 I can test diodes and transistors without looking up at the meter.Anyway my point is some very good older meters can be had for very reasonable prices. From what you say you plan to do though don't over-think it. When it comes down to it, just about anything beyond the $5 Chinese meters will do just fine. Even those $5 ones are not absolutely horrible, I have one I got for free with coupon at Harbor Freight that I keep in my car emergency kit, it works better and is more accurate than the first DMM I ever owned that cost nearly $100 in the late 80s.

author: samgab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 12:18:43 am
content: Quote from: JacobP onTodayat 12:22:17 AMUT61E; I've bought a lot from, and trust both Banggood and Gearbest, from China:http://www.banggood.com/UNI-T-UT61E-Auto-Range-Modern-Digital-Multimeters-AC-DC-Meter-p-90124.html?p=RB24034421877201604Whttp://www.gearbest.com/multimeters-fitting/pp_274000.html?wid=21Fluke 17B+ at banggood:http://www.banggood.com/Fluke-17B-F17B-Professional-Digital-Multimeter-Measuring-Tool-p-911685.html?p=RB24034421877201604WOWON B35T:http://www.gearbest.com/multimeters-fitting/pp_402378.html

author: JacobP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 12:36:09 am
content: Quote from: daybyter on February 07, 2017, 10:51:14 pmThe meter I have ishttp://www.gardnerbender.com/en/gdt-311(or a close cousin). So it doesn't really have a proper continuity setting; I've been using the resistance mode to do those checks. No buzzer or anything.It also does not read very reliability. There's not much good to say about this device (at least the specific one that I have).

author: JacobP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 12:39:11 am
content: Thanks all for the videos and links. I'll work my way through them this evening!

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 12:54:13 am
content: Quote from: JacobP on February 08, 2017, 12:39:11 amLet us know what you get - and pics or it didn't happen.

author: Kennylxix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 03:11:54 am
content: A budget of 100 puts a lot of good used flukes in range. If you are going to have only one dmm make it one you're sure you can trust. Forgo bells and whistles and get the most solid meter you can

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 03:56:20 am
content: I have to respect the recommendations for used meters but there is no way ion the world I would buy one. There is every possibility that the meter has been damaged. I can see companies unloading high end meters but lower end meters are probably coming from individuals with, perhaps, dubious skills.I'm coming around to thinking the same about used scopes even though my used Tek 485 has been perfect. The problem is, mileage may vary.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 05:31:17 am
content: Sure there's always some risk, but I've gambled on quite a few used items and won far more times than not. Especially if it's something like a Fluke or Tek that is known to be robust and well supported. We're talking <$100 purchases here, not exactly a major life decision.

author: SingedFingers
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 08:35:59 am
content: This. Everything I've bought even spares/repair has been dissapointingly easy to get back in shape.

author: JacobP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 01:19:03 pm
content: I made it through everything that everyone shared and I think what I'm going to do is buy the Uni-T UT61E from one of the sellers samgab recommended. I'm also going to buy a set of nice probes (maybe Probemaster?).I'm going to sit on it a day and make sure I don't second-guess myself, but this seems like the best trade-off in features and cost.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 03:30:46 pm
content: Probemaster makes really nice leads IME, and you get more for your money.I'd recommend looking at the 9100 series as it's modular (i.e. less weight pulling on the connector, so fewer instances where the lead comes off the test point/lead). Specifically the9104 Deluxe Electronic Test Lead Kit.FWIW, there's a thread dedicated toProbemaster DMM Leads, and they're mentioned in numerous other threads as well.

author: 0-8-15 User
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 05:58:22 pm
content: Maybe a little more expensive than what you want to spend, but it should have everything you want in a very nice package: Greenlee DM-510A (Brymen 257s)

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2017, 06:06:54 pm
content: Quote from: JacobP on February 08, 2017, 01:19:03 pmI use some of the Probemaster leads and have a set of Fluke needles that I like. Funny, I just pulled my highly modified UT61E out last night to run some static discharge tests on it. This meter would have never survived out of the box. Poor UNI-Ts.

author: JacobP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 01:04:00 am
content: Quote from: joeqsmith on February 08, 2017, 06:06:54 pmI saw what I think was your video about making the meter more robust. It was really interesting.Keeping in mind I'm a newbie -- you've mentioned that this meter doesn't handle ESD well in two different posts. I don't completely understand what you're cautioning me about. Can you please explain a little more?

author: Kennylxix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 02:30:29 am
content: I still strongly recommend a fluke. 15b+ for $88 and you can give it to your children when youre too old to see the screen anymore.

author: JacobP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 02:38:06 am
content: Quote from: Kennylxix on February 09, 2017, 02:30:29 amI'm doing some more digging into the 15b+. I somehow misread the price the first time around and thought it was a $200+ meter. I don't see it anywhere (yet) for $88, but at ~$110 it's close enough to my price range.

author: Kennylxix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 02:44:05 am
content: On ebay right now. Item 222366809453.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 02:54:29 am
content: Sure, maybe.. er.... Of course the internet is a great resource as well. Pick up a blanket to climb into bed, you may see some sparks. Pet the cat, put on a sweater, walk across the room and touch the door knob. All static. You can get some pretty big voltages, 10s of thousands pretty easy. It's fairly low energy. If you were to look at it with an oscilloscope, you would see some sort of spikey, ringing thing but it would be measured in 0.0000001 seconds and less. It's fast... Really fast!The UT61E, like several other UNI-T's I have looked at can be damaged with this low energy, high voltage, fast transients. Many meters are tested and certified to some a safety standard, but there is also an EMC standard that some meters are also tested and certified for. These meters normally cost a little more.I use a small gas grill ignitor (piezo) to simulate the ESD (Electro Static Discharge). The ignitor will put out about an Ampere into a 2 ohm load and has an open circuit voltage somewhere around 15,000 volts. But again, it's fast. In the order of 0.000000005 seconds. And while that high voltage may seem like a lot, once you stick the meter on there you never see it. But that 1 amp can do some damage to sensitive parts.So 1 amp, thousands of volts sounds like a lot consider pretty much every meter I look at will not be damaged if the meter takes a direct hit from it. The standards for meters actually call for higher current levels! 15X higher! You can control static with humidity, mats, straps and such. Maybe you live in a humid area so its not important to you.The start of this video I go into a little more detail about ESD.About the mid of this video, I start going over why the UT61E is so easily damagedAnd of course the proof is really in the testing!But that stupid meter drifts with temperature. It's the second worse meter I have!! So that needed to get fixed but I didn't want to spend any money doing it. So I showed how it could be improved for less than a cup of coffee. Then there's another video where I added an adaptive back light to the thing because that was apparently that was too much for UNI-T to add.This takes us to last night where I have tossed aside the old gas grill ignitor and replaced it with a new ESD gun that comes a little closer to meeting the IEC standard waveforms. And because these UNI-Ts did so poorly and I had taken on improving UNI-Ts designs, it seemed only fitting to zap them again with the new gun. Any new meter I look at will be tested with this gun.

author: samgab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 03:24:29 am
content: Quote from: JacobP on February 09, 2017, 02:38:06 amI'd suggest that if you're looking at the Fluke 15b+, DON'T, get the 17b+ instead. It can be found for about the same price, and has some very useful features over the 15b+ that I'm sure you'll find handy at some time during its life span.For instance, the 17b+ has:Temperature measurement and a k type thermocouple,Relative button for zeroing the reading which is an almost essential feature,Min/Max recording - VERY useful.Frequency and Duty Cycle measurement for AC - maybe not useful immediately, but could come in handy in the future.High voltage alert.Comparison flyer:http://www.kipia.info/upload/DOCU_PDF_RAZN/Fluke_doc/Fluke15B_Plus.PDFThey both have good protection against EMC, large, quality HRC ceramic fuses,I have the Fluke 17b (not the plus version); it was my first "good" DMM, and it's still going strong, and is still a good and useful tool, even though now I have the 87V and other DMMs.But they've really improved the 17b in several critical ways with the 17b+. It looks like a really good meter, for the money.It's lacking some of the features of the UT61E, but seems to have better internal construction quality:UT61E:Fluke 17b+Note Fluke 17b+ and 15b+ Cons:Hold function is not Fluke's auto hold (as you would get on the 87V), it simply freezes the current display (UT61E has an autohold feature, albeit not documented).Only 4000 count with ±(0.5% +3) accuracy (DC volts) (UT61E is 22000 counts ±(0.1%+2)).Not a true RMS meter (UT61E is true RMS).No PC data logging, if you would ever use this feature. (UT61E has data logging via PC connection.)No analogue bar graph on display (UT61E has the analogue bar graph, although the update speed isn't very fast)

author: Kennylxix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 09:35:38 am
content: Oh I forgot to mention that fluke doesn't warranty those models as they are designed for China market but I doubt you'd need it.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 03:40:40 pm
content: That orange capacitor on the UT61E looks like an 'oopsie'. Is it held in place with adhesive?

author: Kennylxix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 05:18:28 pm
content: Nope.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 06:17:34 pm
content: I guess I'll take them off my shopping list. Not that I need another DMM, but still...

author: samgab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2017, 07:54:51 pm
content: Quote from: rstofer on February 09, 2017, 03:40:40 pmEveryone who tears down the UT61E, (and several other Uni-T multimeters which have that same capacitor in the same place like that), comments on it; that it looks out of place, or was a mistake, or is the wrong package size for that position, but it's always been there, they've kept it through several iterations of the UT61E... It's definitely there by design, although I don't know why...You'd think they could use a little bit of hot snot to hold it there, at least.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 03:06:55 am
content: The last one I bought has a brown cap in parallel with another.

author: samgab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 03:13:19 am
content: Quote from: joeqsmith on February 10, 2017, 03:06:55 amWeird. How many PTC's on the other end? I've seen some with 3 x PTC's, and some with only one or two. And I don't know why they don't populate the MOV positions there usually.I very much doubt it meets the claimed CAT ratings. But personally, I live in a climate where static isn't a problem, and if it's only for low voltage DC work and data logging, it does the business. Horses for courses. The Fluke 17b+ is definitely a much better laid out PCB and much tidier looking, with better input protection, that's for sure.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 03:25:51 am
content: 3 PTCs, 4 MOVs, some current limiting resistors and some high speed clamps do the business on this one.There are a lot of mods done to this thing. Proper fuses, new MOVS and PTCs, machined connectors and a few other bits. The backlight sensor it there but you can't see it from this shot. It's now one of the more stable meters I have over temp instead of the second worse. And while the little grill ignitor would normally do one it, this meter is now very robust. It has survived the full wrath of my new generator which is about 6KV 50us FWHH and a 2 ohm source. People say they drift with time and I am collecting long term data on this one.Purely educational...

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 03:36:09 am
content: Quote from: samgab on February 10, 2017, 03:13:19 amCat is for safety, static discharge is an EMC standard. The transients on the Cat tests will carry a lot more energy that the little ESD gun I show. I put my finger across the ESD gun. My other generators are lethal and they do not come even close to meeting the safety standards.I would assume the GS marked 61E meet their CAT ratings. But even if they do, I doubt they would survive a hit with the grill starter. I am not sure if they certified them for EMC or not. Anyone know?

author: samgab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 03:38:39 am
content: Quote from: joeqsmith on February 10, 2017, 03:25:51 amI did a quick bit of research just now and I found that apparently theEUROmarket spec version of the UT61e comes pre populated with all three PTCS and all four MOVS, and 600V rated HRC fuses (1 big and 1 small).TheChinesemarket version, is the one we usually see though, which comes with 2 or 3 PTCs, no MOVs, and 250V rated ceramic fuses (1 big, 1 small).Easy way to tell which is which is to look at the printing between the current jacks, and it will be printed with either 250V or 600V.Here's a 600V version: EDIT: Hang one, that doesn't look like 22000 counts??? Not enough digits? And the bar graph goes up to "40"?? That looks like a 4000 count meter. Odd, it's marked UT61E though. And the screen has 22000 count printed on it. Whaa?That screen, compared to this:I'm very confused by that now. What's going on. There isn't room on the screen of that Euro meter to fit a fifth character, so what's going on?

author: samgab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 03:46:33 am
content: Quote from: joeqsmith on February 10, 2017, 03:36:09 amYeah, I know about the safety ratings 61010-1 etc vs. the EMC 61326-1 ratings. I may have confused matters by speaking about one then the other in the same paragraph. They were supposed to be two unique thoughts, first about the CAT rating, and then a new thought about my lack of concern for EMC damage risks to the meter. Cheers though! I've never seen anyone damage a meter with EMC discharge/transients that they didn't DELIBERATELY induce into the meter. EG, I've never met anyone who damaged a DMM by walking over carpet then touching the exterior of the meter or the probes.QuoteThere's no mention of EMC or EN61326-1 anywhere in the user manual for the UT61 series.

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 04:03:24 am
content: From a Tektronix document dated Jan 2000:EMCInstruments sold internationally now must also meet strict Electromagnetic Compatibility (EMC) requirements, both for generation of emissions and for immunity to nearby electromagnetic and electrostatic fields. The EMC standards used for DMMs have evolved from a hodge-podge of local standards to international CISPR and IEC standards and, finally, to the harmonized EN standards. In order to sell into the European Union or EU, (formerly known as the European Community or EC) under directive 89/336/EEC, DMMs must now meet EN 55011 for radiated emissions, EN 50082-1 for susceptibility, and display the CE conformity mark (Figure X). EN 55011 was adopted from the earlier CISPR 11 and Class A is for instruments used in a commercial environment as opposed to Class B which is for home use. EN 50082-1 is the generic electromagnetic immunity standard. It refers to a series of IEC standards for the individual test procedures. Those pertaining to DMMs are IEC 801-2-1984 for ESD immunity testing and IEC 801-3-1984 for RF immunity. Of these, the ESD immunity is probably of the most interest to the average DMM user since it assures that static zaps of this frequently handled instrument won't kill it. The normal testing is for protection to 8 kV. Testing to 15 kV is better yet since this is a realistic value that may be encountered on a dry day at an indoor location. It is expected that a new EN standard will replace EN 50082-1 in early 1997. It will refer to IEC 1000-4-2 and IEC 1000-4-3 that will replace IEC 801-2-1984 and IEC 801-3-1984 respectively.http://www.tek.com/document/whitepaper/understanding-handheld-dmm-specifications

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 04:30:47 am
content: Is the manual different for the GS marked 61E?Thanks for the Tektronix link. It's a little strange as I doubt most of the meters I see would meet both.QuoteI may have to start over....

author: samgab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 05:56:26 am
content: Quote from: joeqsmith on February 10, 2017, 04:30:47 amI enjoy your videos, by the way, and I like what you've done to your modified UT61E!Incidentally, have you seen the updated EMC immunity requirements in relation to EN61326-1:2013?Quote

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 12:21:45 pm
content: Quote from: samgab on February 10, 2017, 05:56:26 amI'm glad you enjoy the videos.In the UT181A Part 2 video where I talked about ESD and also in my more recent posts I reference the 2013 standard. Keep in mind that the 8KV from four was for an air discharge, not the direct contact I plan on running. For this we are still at 4KV. Which is why the new gun outputs 4KV.

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2017, 08:00:06 pm
content: Quote from: samgab on February 10, 2017, 03:38:39 amNo need to panic. The top image was probably a pre-production mockup that used a lower-count model meter (e.g., UT61D) and had its badging changed to represent the E model. In any case, it's a doctored image by someone who doesn't understand what 22000 counts should look like.

author: JacobP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2017, 01:39:17 am
content: So, I settled on the UT61E and a set of Probe Master leads. I'm really happy with it; it has made working with the Adruino much more enjoyable. I know that I'll probably need an upgrade someday, but I weighed the cost and my needs.I really, really appreciate all of the advice I've gotten in this thread. Thank you all so much!

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2017, 01:45:33 am
content: Good for you, I'm sure it will serve you well.

author: JacobP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2017, 04:31:54 am
content: Of course, now I find that I also want an oscilloscope. :-)

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2017, 04:33:35 am
content: Quote from: JacobP on February 19, 2017, 04:31:54 amAnd so it begins....

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2017, 06:40:38 am
content: Congrats on your new DMM and first Arduino circuit with it.A scope, eh? Plenty for you to read about here.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2017, 03:04:33 pm
content: JacobP, congratulations on your purchase. If you ever see the need for a second multimeter (to measure multiple voltages or Volts X Ampères), I can vouch for the super cheap but incredibly well builtUT-136C. There is a thread that discusses ithere.