Hack to convert from/to 110V to/from 220V main voltage. Basics guide & Examples - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 18, 2014, 07:55:55 am
content: Guys,I know you can buy a 110V<-->220V transformer, but is it not our bench already crowded enough? Is it a good idea to carry a heavy transformer in addition to the device you need? Why not to use the brain instead of money? And what about the max. power limitation? BTW the buzzing noise drives me nuts.Common mortal people think a main plug adapter like those ones:will solve all the problems. Well let them believe they can recharge the phone with the WIFI RF energy.I was always wondering if it is possible to hack a 110V device (sometime it's so cheap tp buy in $, if the shipping/custom cost are reasonable) into a 220V one and vice versa. After a little research I found almost nothing regarding this topic (only sporadic hack guide for some product).I'm just an EE with a little bit of passion and I travel a lot in the past in different countries so I build up a little experience on this stuff.Forgive me if this is not 100% correct or need modifications/better technical descriptions. I will try to keep the important information in this first page post.As Dave says, it´s our forum.I'm not responsible for any call to the local fire department or burned devices. Triple check everything. It could cost a lot of money or be lethal for you and/or the end user.WARNING YOU WILL WORK WITH HIGH DANGEROUS MAIN VOLTAGES! USE CAUTION AND THINK TWICE BEFORE ACT!Worldwide situationGenreally (99%): 220VAC 50Hz or 110VAC 60Hzfor detailshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_countrycheck also how many main plugs are out there!Hacking the power lines to get the desired voltage outIt also looks like generally the frequency difference 50/60Hz will not be a big problem.For 110VAC residential voltage (i.e. US/Canada):You can get directly the 240VAC for the main power line by tapping off the two opposite phases. Please read before regarding so e safety issues. A transformer is suggested because it is more safe. In addition to that please check if have a dryer or a kitchen oven close where you want the 240V, as I saw those devices runs at 240VAC, so you can just tap the two phases out there... Please consider also the circuit beaker Ampere size since you are now running more than a single device with it.For 240VAC residential voltage (i.e. Europe):Here no mercy, you need a transformer. I was starting to investigate the possibility to use a TRIAC to get the wave to max 110VAC (in some 110VAC device it could be a winner), but for business case and complexity doesn't make too much sense.Hacking the device to work with the current voltageIn this section we will investigate the possibility to get the device running with a different main power supply voltageThe golden label ruleFirst look at the label of your product, it should tell you right away if you need a hack or not.If this is impossible to look at it don't risk, trust the main plug (and/or main fuse) to determine which is the main voltage and consider this device as not worldwide compatible.Circuit classificationI would start by dividing the devices in three big groups. It's a very difficult task but it cleans up the air a little bit (I hope).a) DC operating circuits (99% <100W range)Usually powered by rechargeable batteries this kind of circuits are 99% already compatible with all the world.Example of this are infinite: 99% of the battery charger units (for laptop, phones, etc) but also table LED table lamp.Here it is common to have a separated power unit from the devices which take care about the main AC to DC conversion (yes the ones which never fit in the laptop case).Interesting enough if the final device need manly just DC (i.e. oscilloscope or computer) it is a very good sign you don't need any hack at all.The need to hack/mod a circuit here is a sporadic event, and it is manly an easy job: find/design and replace the correct AC/DC converter (inside or outside the product case).b) DC Small/medium power circuits (99% 100W-1000W range)Here it depends. Manly politic business case are the driver to get a device compatible worldwide or not. Power drill charger or UPS unit for computers are a good example of it.Also devices which uses electricity to produce a lot of heat (hot air guns, ovens, etc.) are most of all not worldwide. I think it is related to the heater resistor which need a circuit close to the main voltage.Here an hack can save money (especially for used stuff from ebay), but it would need reverse engineering and the possibility to get access and modify the power circuit.c) Power device (99% >1000W)Devices which use components powered in AC (electric motors, heater resistors) or big main voltage transformer are almost impossible to hack or the business case is red.An hack would involve to replace costly components, just open the case and cry on it. If you are a Braveheart of hacking keep a fire extinguisher close to you, or expect the unexpected.Basic "How to" guideIf there is a main switch (110VAC/220AV, usually on the back panel close to the AC main input) you are done, just adjust the main plug (mandatory!) and check if the main fuse needs to be replaced. The fuse could be in the AC main input connector, see below:or inside your device.In case of no main switch or a not world wide compatible product, at this point you should consider to attempt a main circuit modification to your device.As mikeselectricstuff would say there is no guide to reverse engineering. I try to give some suggestions, forgive me my experience is not huge.- Google it, 99% you are not the first to face this problem. Sometimes there is even a kit to convert the main power device, see example here thanks tonowlanQuote from: nowlan on January 27, 2014, 05:49:41 am- Make sure the main capacitors are fully discharged, they can be dangerous and hold the charge for days. Thanks toLegit-Design, please see details in this post:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/need-a-russian-speacker-to-translate-a-you-tube-hack-video/msg376102/#msg376102- Follow the main lines like Alice did with the white rabbit. Thanks tovk6zgocheck the fuse in the power lines (they could be on both lines) and the RF filter capacitor. See post here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/hack-to-convert-fromto-110v-tofrom-220v-main-voltage-basics-guide-examples/msg375549/#msg375549...and check if all the components (all, everything connected to main, protection components included) are capable of the target voltages. Normally a 220V device will not work (well) in a 110V network. Be ready to call the firefighters in case you are trying to power up a 110V device with a 220V.- Try to understand where the voltage is converted to a different nature (AC/DC) or amplitude, in other words try to isolate the power circuit from the rest of the circuit. The modifications should be related only to the power circuit, so you can 99% ignore the rest.- get or reverse engineer the schematics of the main power board- Does a different main frequency (50/60 Hz) play a role? Don´t forget this topic.- Does the product have radio communication? Check if you can use that frequency in the target country (i.e. I heard in China the 125KHz is used for military purpose). Don´t forget this topic.- Try to disconnect the power circuit from the rest and keep this last one disconnected and safe. It is better to risk just on the main power circuit.- If it is impossible to disconnect the power circuit from the rest try to keep safe crucial components (and the ones difficult to replace) by disconnection or desoldering costly chips, if you can without damaging anything). It will cost time but can save money and the entire project success.- use a lot of brain and do not try before to post your problems in this forum.- Hack it. Nice to have try to design the mod as a worldwide compatible, it could be handy for a lot of people out there.- after the hack, measure and check the power supply voltages (if you are using an oscilloscope be careful you can't connect the probes directly to the main voltages or go on too high voltages)- rebuild it together and pray.- Success? post it in the forum.ExamplesComputer PSUhere is interesting to see how a 110V/220V switch works, just for your inspirationdetails here:http://www.pavouk.org/hw/en_atxps.htmlMakita DC18RA ModFrom 110V to 220V:http://www.schneordesign.com/Avi/Makita/makita_mod1.htmMakita DC10WB ModFrom 110V to 220V:Thanks toLegit-Design, please see details in this post:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/need-a-russian-speacker-to-translate-a-you-tube-hack-video/msg376102/#msg376102Quote from: Legit-Design on January 27, 2014, 05:19:37 amZPS: I live in US but I have 220V, 60Hz(!) lines under my bench to power up my european equipment, it was just a wire from the main electric power of my apartment. Yes I hate big transformer.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2014, 09:54:32 am
content: Good old TL494

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2014, 03:15:39 pm
content: For the case of converting a 240V input switching power supply to 120V, easiest solution is a voltage doubler.

author: nickm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2014, 04:22:05 pm
content: Here's the redneck way. There's already 240V in your house so what you do is get and extension cord and a multimeter. Pick an outlet in the room you are using. Plug the extension cord into an outlet in another room. Measure the voltage from hot to hot of the extension cord and the outlet. If you get 0Vac move the extension cord to another outlet. If you get 120Vac you are measuring hot to neutral and are doing it wrong. If you get 240Vac you are good because you have found an outlet on the other phase. Make a box that takes in 2 IEC cables and outputs to a single 240Vac plug. Connect each of the hots from the IEC connectors to one side of the 240Vac plug. Plug the box into the outlet and the extension cord. You now have a 240Vac outlet.

author: temmi_hoo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2014, 04:38:27 pm
content: Quote from: nickm on January 18, 2014, 04:22:05 pmThis could be made a device with two input cables and one outlet. It would have a meter or some indicator lights indicating is a plug needs reversing. I think it would not be ultrahard to automate this but I'd still want those indicators and possibly a nice needle meter.Mostly I don't see a problem as modern low and medium power devices already have an universal power supply accepting anything between 90 and 260VAC in either 50/60Hz form. Thusly I don't think it would sell a lot but be a cool hacker project to brag about at the hackerspace you're visiting.Also, if you use it in Europe you'll end up with 400VAC that'll fry stuff faster, except in Norway, who use electricity always from between phases and mostly don't do anything with the star point.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 04:35:11 pm
content: Quote from: NiHaoMike on January 18, 2014, 03:15:39 pmI think the PSU circuit I posted does exactly that...

author: calzap
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 05:09:26 pm
content: Quote from: nickm on January 18, 2014, 04:22:05 pmYikes! Very unsafe device! What happens if you put the plugs into a pair of 120 VAC outlets served by the same phase but by different breakers? Well, the outlet on the box has just had its over-current protection doubled. If the 120 VAC outlets were protected by 15 A breakers, the outlet on the box now has 30 A of protection. Fire and shocks may occur. Even if the plugs are connected to opposite phases, there is potential (no pun) danger. There is a reason the handles of the two sub-breakers that make-up a 240 VAC breaker are tied together. It's so the whole 240 VAC circuit becomes dead if either phase gets shorted or grounded.Mike in California

author: don.r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 05:22:49 pm
content: Its not called Redneck for nothin'.I have a 1000VA autotransformer under the bench creating 240V/60Hz and a UK plug strip on the bench. The nice things about autotransformers is they have multiple taps so I can use it to get 55V as well if I need to power on an unknown device of dubious origin. Both ground and neutral connect straight through to the 120V house wiring. The unit has its own breaker. Safe, simple, out of sight.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 05:24:09 pm
content: Quote from: calzap on January 19, 2014, 05:09:26 pmThere's a commercial product that does just that, but it has quite a few interlocks for safety. It's apparently popular with EV owners who want to charge twice as fast.http://www.quick220.com/-A220-20D.html

author: calzap
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 06:45:01 pm
content: There's a commercial product that does just that, but it has quite a few interlocks for safety. It's apparently popular with EV owners who want to charge twice as fast.http://www.quick220.com/-A220-20D.htmlYup, and the product addresses both of my concerns. If the plugs aren't into opposite phases, there is no power at any of the output sockets, and ditto if only one of the input cords has power. This device is the way to go if you want to use this technique.Mike in California

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 06:46:04 pm
content: For what that thing costs, I'd put the effort into running a 240V circuit..

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 07:00:41 pm
content: Apparently, it's possible to replicate it with two small 120V coil relays and a large 240V coil relay or contactor. Should be well under $50 for all the parts.Here's the initial idea, but with just 2 relays:http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=102463It doesn't actively protect against the case of plugging it into two circuits of the same phase, but it wouldn't work and it's highly unlikely anyone would leave it like that. Adding a third relay can actively protect against that.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 10:43:32 pm
content: Quote from: don.r on January 19, 2014, 05:22:49 pmIs there also a galvanic main isolation between input and output voltage? I measure my transformer apart and I sadly discover there are no primary or secondary coil it is just one with different tabs.

author: don.r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 10:46:11 pm
content: Sadly, no. Its just an autotransformer. I have a 300W isolation transformer that is 2:1 as well though. I really need to get myself a 1:1 isolator.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 10:53:31 pm
content: When I modify my apartment power lines I put at the and a 15A thermal-switch for overload and a 10mA differential switch at the end of the 220VAC opposite phases.Minimal safety should be always there.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 10:57:54 pm
content: Quote from: don.r on January 19, 2014, 10:46:11 pmYou got me, same situation here. If you find something cheap and good let me know.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 11:14:15 pm
content: Ops, I think the conversation is going in the direction to modify the wall power line in order to get the the desired voltage out. My initial intention was to focus on the device mod in order to get it compatible with different main voltages. Oh well, not a big deal I can make two big sections in the first post.I would summarize the main power line modification like this:For 110VAC residential voltage (i.e. US/Canada):You can get directly the 240VAC for the main power line by tapping off the two opposite phases. Please read before regarding so e safety issues. A transformer is suggested because it is more safe.In addition to that please check if have a dryer or a kitchen oven close where you want the 240V, as I saw those devices runs at 240VAC, so you can just tap the two phases out there... Please consider also the circuit beaker Ampere size since you are now running more than a single device with it.For 240VAC residential voltage (i.e. Europe):Here no mercy, you need a transformer. I was starting to investigate the possibility to use a TRIAC to get the wave to max 110VAC (in some 110VAC device it could be a winner), but for business case and complexity doesn't make too much sense.It also looks like generally the frequency difference 50/60Hz will not be a big problem.Thanks for all your responses!

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 11:22:58 pm
content: Quote from: temmi_hoo on January 18, 2014, 04:38:27 pmWhy? What are the advantages of that?

author: temmi_hoo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2014, 06:05:54 pm
content: Quote from: zucca on January 19, 2014, 11:22:58 pmThat way they can still carry the whole three phase system with just three wires as the rest of us. Most of Norway sits on the big slab of rock called Europe and the ground conductance is really super poor. If they did want star system, they'd have to carry the middle conductor as well. Then they'd have the problem of locally grounding it, as it's supposed to be a neutral terminal free from potential.Now, if it were up to just me, we'd all be running either DC with suitable voltage or three phase Norway-style with addition of locally grounded safety ground where applicable. I prefer DC for many reasons.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2014, 06:28:46 pm
content: Quote from: temmi_hoo on January 25, 2014, 06:05:54 pmThe way everyone else does?QuoteIt's a live conductor like the other three. It's impossible for it to not have a potential.

author: denelec
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2014, 12:50:38 am
content: Quote from: Monkeh on January 25, 2014, 06:28:46 pmIn a star multi-grounded distribution system, the earth to neutral voltage should be as low as possible. Usually below 5V. Higher voltage can cause problems, especially to dairy farmers. But you can't expect to have exactly 0V.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2014, 02:21:29 am
content: Quote from: denelec on January 26, 2014, 12:50:38 amI know this. The reality of the system is that it is a live conductor.

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2014, 03:08:04 am
content: Quote from: zucca on January 19, 2014, 11:14:15 pmIn the USA & Canada,you can get a 240v supply wired,which uses the two 120v "antiphase" voltages from the pole transformer,with the centre tap Earthed.As in a previous suggestion,both ends of the transformer are probably already used to feed different circuits.Hams often use such outlets to power 1.5kW Linear amplifiers--the Electrician will fit them,you don't have to make up "bodgie " connections.Quite a lot of TV monitors & the like from NA are wired for this voltage,& have a fuse inbothsides of the 240V incoming--which is technically speaking,illegal in Australia.One thing to watch is where RF filter capacitors are connected between both sides & Earth inside the device.They may be only rated for 120v service,whereas in Oz,one cap with have zero volts across it,& the other,240v.You will also need to check these RF filer caps if you are thinking about "hacking" a 120V SMPS.

author: temmi_hoo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2014, 09:16:38 am
content: Quote from: Monkeh on January 26, 2014, 02:21:29 amIt most definitely is a current-carrying conductor and I should have stated that its potential should be near zero. Anyway the Norwegians have their normal 1 phase outlets wired between phases, the main voltage being 240V. Nothing gets connected between a phase and neutral.Regarding how and what wires are carried, the high voltage and medium voltage trunk lines carry just three phases. Then the low voltage (that you have in the sockets) side carries four conductors in star configuration. The neutral is grounded at the transformer station and also at the house connection point. Now, if the local earth is very poorly conductive this scheme doesn't work very well in case of distribution network cable failure.Personally I dislike the PEN conductor and would much prefer that my protective earth would not be connected to distribution network, as partial cable failures may make my supposedly safe zero potential terminals, computer cases and water pipes etc hang at some arbitary potential depending on how the local star point settles.I do live in the countryside with pole hanging distribution network, where zero conductor failures occur just as frequently as any other partial network failures and this is a real safety threat.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2014, 09:45:51 am
content: Quote from: zucca on January 19, 2014, 10:57:54 pmRS Components sell them.Twin 115V primary and twin 115 secondary.http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toroidal-transformers/7529242/

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 05:03:45 am
content: Quote from: vk6zgo on January 26, 2014, 03:08:04 amThanks vk6zgo, I added your suggestion on the main page.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 06:04:06 am
content: Quote from: Hero999 on January 26, 2014, 09:45:51 amThanks, got mine 500VA in ebay for 50$.

author: caston
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 12, 2016, 09:33:39 am
content: Hello,Very sorry to resurrect this thread.I live in Australia and have ordered 4x gg1000http://www.guardiantechnologies.com/uv-air-sanitizers/gg1000-pluggable-uv-c-sanitizer-odor-reduction-by-germguardian.htmlI want to use the parts from computer power supplies to modify these so that I can use the devices here in Australia.The device manual says: Operate this product on 120 V AC, 60 HZ onlySo here in Australia we are 230 V AC, 50 HZ (AS/NZS 3112)Would it likely be possible to open up one of these suckers and change the parts to allow them to operate in Australia?

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2016, 09:51:42 am
content: I have a device with a 220V muffin fan that I had to run on 120V. If I remember I put a 3-4uF capacitor in series with the fan. Remember from your studies as the LC approaches resonance voltage will be highest. This gave me 180V on the fan which was just too noisy to run at full voltage anyway.

author: dwpatter53
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2016, 02:07:21 am
content: Look for a brick power supply or charger that is good for 100-240 VAC input.Digging through a pile of power supplies; the 3rd one was a PowMax with 100-240 VAC input and 5 VDC 2.6A output, model LP-0526.Some brick power supplies even have switchable prongs.Industrial switching power supplies have had input ranges of 64-240 VAC or VDC for a long time.Very convenient if you want to power a system form 2 or more sources; .i.e. 125VDC and AC.Good luck

author: dwpatter53
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2016, 02:12:54 am
content: Quote from: zucca on January 19, 2014, 11:22:58 pmIn Canada or the US; the incoming electrical feed is 1 phase plus a neutral.Phase to phase is 220VAC for high current appliances like stoves and dryers.Phase to neutral gives 120VAC for lighting and everything else.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2016, 02:45:04 am
content: Quote from: dwpatter53 on March 13, 2016, 02:12:54 amWhich is actually split-phase, not single-phase.

author: dwpatter53
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2016, 03:19:03 am
content: Didn't say single phase; 1 phase of 3.

author: boffin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 13, 2016, 03:20:56 am
content: Quote from: dwpatter53 on March 13, 2016, 02:12:54 amSort of depends.Most houses are fed 2 phases, 180 degrees apart yeilding 120V (phase-neutral) and 240V (phase - phase). The panel will normally have markings ABABAB on the breakers, and a double breaker at the topMost apartments and commercial buildings are fed 3 phrases, 120 degrees apart yielding 120V (phase - neutral), and 208V (phase-phase). The panel will have markings ABCABCABC and a triple breaker at the topThe difference between a stove or hotwater tank running on 208V vs 240V can actually be noticeable; but normally they're just rated 208/240. I know my mum's stove in a condo on 208 heats up slower than mine at home on 240. Most high (6000+) voltage feeds around the city are 3 phase and to feed the 2 phase houses, there's a center tapped barrel transformer, with the centre tap as the neutral (ground at the pole). To feed the 3 phase larger buildings, there would be three barrel tranfsformers.Clear as mud now?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2016, 03:22:45 am
content: Quote from: dwpatter53 on March 13, 2016, 03:19:03 am.. I have one phase of three (a SINGLE PHASE supply). Shove a centre-tap in it and earth it instead of the star point (in other words, make it a funky delta like you use) and uh, it's a split phase supply.

author: caston
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 13, 2016, 05:42:36 am
content: Quote from: dwpatter53 on March 13, 2016, 02:07:21 amThank you. The power supply for my notebook says something like that: AC100-240V 50-60Hz 2.0AI ordered 4x of these devices:http://www.jaycar.com.au/Power-Products-Electrical/Power-Conversion-&-Transformation/AC-AC-Transformers/50VA-240VAC-to-115VAC-Stepdown-Transformer/p/MF1091Although I realise now they say:"This is not dielectrically isolated."I could perhaps try these out by plugging the autotransformer into a surge protected powerboard then pugging the device into the autotransformer.I definitely won't be allowed to use these at work. I can try it at home under close supervision.

author: dwpatter53
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2016, 05:59:51 am
content: So with just a travel prong converter or different cable you could use your laptop in Canada on 120 VAC.

author: caston
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 14, 2016, 01:48:51 pm
content: That's awesome but i'm interested in using the gg1000 in Australia.

author: dwpatter53
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2016, 11:43:54 pm
content: Quote from: caston on March 13, 2016, 05:42:36 amThe air cleaner is only 4W; the step down transformer is 50VA; should never overheat.The air cleaner is 2 prong plug so is OK with the step down transformer plug.good luck.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 15, 2016, 01:14:15 am
content: Quote from: calzap on January 19, 2014, 06:45:01 pmThere's a commercial product that does just that, but it has quite a few interlocks for safety. It's apparently popular with EV owners who want to charge twice as fast.http://www.quick220.com/-A220-20D.htmlYup, and the product addresses both of my concerns. If the plugs aren't into opposite phases, there is no power at any of the output sockets, and ditto if only one of the input cords has power. This device is the way to go if you want to use this technique.Mike in CaliforniaThe current US Electrical code require GFCI and AFCI breakers on most (soon all?) single phase circuits in a residence. So this device would fail in newer constructed homes.

author: hedehede81
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2016, 06:45:15 am
content: Hello guys,I'm trying to mod a Black and Decker 110V drill battery charger to work on 220V. Its model number is BDCA202. Photos are at the end of this post.At first sight I can see the main cap (100uF 200V needs to be changed to 400V). What else should I look for? I'm thinking they have to have a shortcut (like a jumper, or resistor) to share almost identical designs between 110v and 220v to cut down the costs. At the tutorials I have watched varistors and Mosfets (sometimes optional) were changed too.I would appreciate all the help I can get, many thanks in advance.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2016, 08:10:47 am
content: Yes the 220V cap must be replaced with a 400V one.I did 110V-->220V to a Makita dc10wb charger and I replaced the following (there is a youtube video):- Cap after rectifier- MOVs to get the 400V- a stupid jumper at the secondaryby looking to your board I see a lot of Jx 0Ohm jumper on the bottom right of the board, maybe take a look on the datasheet of the IC there. Normally you can find the schematics of the circuit there.FYI:http://www.schneordesign.com/Avi/Makita/makita_mod1.htmgood luck

author: hedehede81
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2016, 09:29:30 am
content: Quote from: zucca on July 28, 2016, 08:10:47 amThank you very much for looking into it, I will research those jumpers. One jumper especially caught my eye,it is J5 when looked from top side of the board and suspiciously marked green with a marker. Do you think I would risk too much by just changing the main cap to 400V and give it a go?

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2016, 09:51:20 am
content: Quote from: hedehede81 on July 28, 2016, 09:29:30 amif you have an hot gun desolder the ICs first, so you don't burn them up. Then check the power supply and see if they make senses, of course don´t expect a DC Voltage there without ICs.

author: hedehede81
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2016, 11:14:06 am
content: Quote from: zucca on July 28, 2016, 09:51:20 amMay I ask how you decide which jumpers to be removed? I looked at all the ICs, one is PIC16F1503 so it is the main chip. I assume nothing is needed for that one. The other one is I guess an LM358 op amp which has 0 ohm resistors around. Didn't sound promising as well to me. And the last chip is branded 1710, closest I could find is iw1710 Digital PWM Current-Mode Controller. I'm attaching its application circuit below. How would you advise me from here?

author: hedehede81
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2016, 12:11:05 pm
content: Well, it looks like a success after all.I first cut J5 jumper (marked with green marker) and also changed the main cap.(120uF 400V) I checked all the other caps for voltage rating, there were no varistors or thermistors to worry about either. I checked the application circuit and did some continuity tests on the board. It looked like everything was OK so I closed it up and plugged it in. Well, red LED started blinking, a quick check on the plate, it was temperature warning. So that jumper had to be a missing thermistor I suppose. I soldered the jumper back in, closed it up, plugged it in. Well, it is charging the battery now, I call this a successful modthanks goes to zucca for his almost live support.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2016, 02:28:12 pm
content: Congrats... Well you did the job, I just pushed you some how!

author: mons2b
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 26, 2016, 12:47:51 pm
content: HelloThis is my first post and this thread looks like the one for it. Appreciate the more experienced giving their thoughts.I bought two non functional 42" plasmas hoping to make one good one but both power boards were bad.. I had plans to rework some small daughter boards which are known to fail but due to my inexperience ive buggered up the track traces and ive also found it way too frustrating trying to resolder components onto smt pads...Sooo next plan is ive bought a US power board (its on the way) and what I would like to try is to move whatever parts are different on the AU/NZ power boards to the US board. At face value in the photo the US board looks identical apart from some extra metal shields on the sides. But of course it will be more than that. Changing large caps and other standard caps I believe I can do. Now theres a whole lot of fets and transistors on this thing. Many are on the under side of the board under metal plates for transferring heat. Im hoping they cant ALL be affected by the voltage swap? Please jump in

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 26, 2016, 01:55:59 pm
content: Before going crazy, can you power the new US board with 110VAC and then check if the plasmas are working?

author: mons2b
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 06:21:31 am
content: Yep I have a 110 transformer for another device so I will try that with the US Board.

author: hedehede81
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2016, 01:25:15 pm
content: at first look I think you might be really lucky here. Even the sizes of the caps look similar which might indicate that this is a universal (110V/220V) power board to cut down the costs. Check the voltage rating of the main big caps, MOVs if any etc. I wouldn't be surprised if they are 99% or 100% similar.

author: mons2b
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 30, 2016, 07:53:56 am
content: Hi HedehedeThanks for your reply! If the big main caps are identical to my dead 240v board is it likely this US board is capable of 240v? From what I read some US Panasonic boards are universal (but not disclosed on the back of the tv or manual) and some will release magic smoke. Theres fets/movs on the underside that cannot be seen because they have been attached to metal heat plates.Also are the below gadgets capable of being used on a permanent basis to convert power? They are a lot cheaper than one of those heavy transformers.http://www.ebay.com/itm/121933438881?euid=8b38c1920cf44ad7924d8b1d1f92dae9&bu=43193206816&cp=1&sojTags=bu=bu

author: UkraineTrain
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 10, 2017, 01:19:29 pm
content: Hi guys,I have a US TV in Germany (Samsung LN46B650). I'd like to make it work on 220v so I don't have to scrap it. The label on the cover says input voltage 110-120v but I see on the board inside that it says 100v-240v. I'm not sure if this applies to the whole system or just a particular component. Any suggestions on what to do?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2017, 05:30:58 pm
content: Trace the input circuitry and look at the voltage ratings of the components there.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2017, 12:23:57 am
content: You can use a true-sine inverter fed by a hot swap server power supply which can be had for next to nothing, then you can get power in the correct frequency even. I use such a setup to get 240V 50Hz in the US when I was playing more with HID and fluorescent lamps and wanted to properly power the European stuff here.