New Rigol DC PSU's - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2013, 10:34:40 pm
content: Looks like my favourite test equipment manufacturer is coming out with three new models of DC power supplies; and they look pretty weird!http://detail.china.alibaba.com/offer/1208723855.html

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2013, 11:41:53 pm
content: WTF were they smoking when they designed that front panel?

author: McMonster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2013, 11:44:41 pm
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on January 01, 2013, 11:41:53 pmPossibly the stuff that was left over after designing Nokia 3650, judging from the number pad.

author: Shuggsy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 12:04:16 am
content: Quote from: olsenn on January 01, 2013, 10:34:40 pmWOW. I was a fan of their previous/current models (DP1X Series)... I still prefer having some knob even if it's an encoder to get to a set voltage, so the addition of a knob is nice. Beyond that... the new layout looks like a mess.

author: notsob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 12:40:25 am
content: WOW, that is so butt ugly, one would be tempted to pay the local agent to NOT put it on display or advertise it.

author: Spikee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 12:58:38 am
content: also expensive 4600 yuan = ~560 eurobut if you look further down the page you can see some of the neat features.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 01:00:31 am
content: Looks aside, I really don't get the point of these (style of) power supplies anyways... I mean I own an Instek GPS-4303 which has two fixed outputs and two 0 - 30V, 3A current regulated outputs which can be placed in series to make a 0 - 60V 3A output or in parallel to make a 0 - 30V, 6A output, and it only costs $400. I mean I suppose some people need it to be programmable for automation, but why does anybody need multimeter accurate readings and an QHD color display? Why pay $1000+ for a power supply when you can get one for $400 that is more powerful! Agilent and Rigol already have PSU's with only one output and lesser specs than mine and they cost 3 times as much!

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 05:47:35 pm
content: accurate high res meters are good for setting it precisely. as for the large display hmm maybe not to shrink down the ui/numbers/function designators?for the layout everything nowadays looks the same shit designed by a damn f****t with serious problem with knowing the difference between a toy/shitty looking useless stuffs/ or a properly made layout/design for given function or i have a problem with old style clear and perfected designs? "be simple while giving maximum user statisfaction and controllability, i would not trade my old chieftec ba01bb server tower for anything made nowadays, simply it does the job looks good while fits everywhere as far as the sight goes" same for instruments appliances etc, simple elegant!

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 06:40:07 pm
content: Like the old Rotary Dial Phones. I wonder if it has old Penta Conta Relays

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 07:11:44 pm
content: The +30V and the -30V output channel on the Rigol DP831A are not independent, they share the COM socket. That takes away some flexibility.On the positive side it looks as if Rigol got the power supplies independently certifiedEU EMC cert:http://www.tuvdotcom.com/certificates/50241306EU low voltage directive cert:http://www.tuvdotcom.com/certificates/50241547They got the certification for some more variants: DP831 DP831A DP831B DP831EDP831U DP831Z DP832 DP832A DP832B DP832E DP832U DP832Z. That doesn't mean they will release all of them, but they seem to mean business.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 07:22:37 pm
content: I don't see how it would be logical to have the fixed 5v output as "channel 1" on the power supply.I'd assume the two most important outputs would be 1 and 2...Other than this, lots of things that are not usability friendly... pointless speedometer style on screen, which hides away the precise voltage output to a small text, the digits around the big knob with weird shape so that it's hard to memorize and push them in the dark without focusing on the thing...

author: ptricks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 09:33:36 pm
content: A power supply without something to turn just feels wrong,it has to have something to turn !

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 10:47:00 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on January 02, 2013, 01:00:31 amI'm getting an Atten (today, it's on the truck) that was AU$460 tripple output programmable.Noise and accuracy specs aren't as good as the Rigol's, but it's half the price.Dave.

author: jancumps
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 10:49:09 pm
content: They are innovators for ergonomic designs. I bet that if you use it with an open mind it will turn out to be an easy to use unit.Quote from: ptricks on January 02, 2013, 09:33:36 pmIt has something to turn. There is a dial in the middle ofthe numeric keypad

author: JoannaK
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 10:59:24 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on January 02, 2013, 10:47:00 pmYou obviously didn't take the *design values* into account. Consider the delight you feel each time you see that uniquelu beautifull piece of electornics at your desk. Every hour, every day, for a years to come.(And yes: I'd like to offer some Aalto Original design houses for sale..)

author: JoannaK
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 11:00:28 pm
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on January 01, 2013, 11:41:53 pmWhatever it is, I'm quite sure it's illegal at this part of world.

author: AndyC_772
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 11:04:02 pm
content: At least you can't complain that they just copied a western manufacturer's UI

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 11:18:21 pm
content: So, does it support touch tone dialing, too?

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 11:19:58 pm
content: Personnally, I think I like the BK 9130 triple supply better than the Rigol power supply. It goes to 30 volts (Rigol 25V) and can go up to 3A (Rigol 1A).Does anybody has experience with the BK 9130?Robert

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 11:21:36 pm
content: Dave,Which Aten supply did you order (model number) ? Please do tell ;-)Robert

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 02, 2013, 11:56:05 pm
content: Quote from: rbola35618 on January 02, 2013, 11:21:36 pmhttp://www.attenelectronics.com/Products/Power_Supply/Programmable_power/2012/0728/89.htmlDave.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 12:55:39 am
content: Quote from: ptricks on January 02, 2013, 09:33:36 pmi thought there looked like a knob in the middle of the buttons arranged in a circle.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 01:02:06 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on January 02, 2013, 11:56:05 pmWell, having seen that one the new Rigol suddenly doesn't look so bad anymore.I can't really say what's wrong, it just looks ugly

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 02:12:05 pm
content: While I too think its ugly, it may set a trend in design; only the Rigol looks like this so far, and you never know what young EEs find appealing these days, it seems to have kawaii or Fisher Price written all over it.A reason to have more accurate V and A meters on a PSU is to save the time to attach a separate quality DMM to it and do the same measurements. If you need such values daily, the seconds to minutes it saves can add up when doing multiple set ups daily. But for lab purposes, a far more accurate, stable, and noise free power source is more important than convenience.

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 03:06:22 pm
content: The problem I see is that the two main supplies are not isolated. In some applications you want isolation. The Rigol does not appear to have this since they share the same ground.RB

author: grenert
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 03:28:02 pm
content: Quote from: rbola35618 on January 03, 2013, 03:06:22 pmThat seems to be pretty common/typical for triple power supplies (even Agilent, etc.). Dual supplies are usually isolated.

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 03:52:45 pm
content: Quote from: saturation on January 03, 2013, 02:12:05 pmI fear we are bound to see a Hello Kitty special edition in the near future.

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 04:27:28 pm
content: *cough*

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 04:40:58 pm
content: Quote from: rbola35618 on Today at 03:06:22 PMThe problem I see is that the two main supplies are not isolated. In some applications you want isolation. The Rigol does not appear to have this since they share the same ground.That seems to be pretty common/typical for triple power supplies (even Agilent, etc.). Dual supplies are usually isolated.That is why I am interested in the BK 9130. All three sypplies are isolated.RB

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 04:55:14 pm
content: Agilent Tiny Tots meters....... Get them young and they will be users of your product for life...........

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 05:14:22 pm
content: QuoteI think you're wrong about that. Both outputs (and all three with the tripple output model) have their own seperate positive (red) and negative (black) terminals and in the middle there is a green physical ground terminal in case you wanted to ground any of the outputs to earth. Why wouldn't there just be the one negative terminal if all the outputs used the same ground?

author: grenert
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 05:19:42 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on January 03, 2013, 05:14:22 pmOlsenn, you should probably look again. There is one black common ground terminal between the + and - outputs. Indeed, that is why they are called + and -. If they were isolated, there would be no + and -, since they could both be + for example.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 05:26:18 pm
content: QuoteI'm confused; looking at the photo, I see for the first output a yellow plus sign and a yellow minus sign. For the second output, I see a blue plus sign and a red minus sign. In between the teo outputs I see a black physical ground symbol which indicates that that (green) jack is connected to physical ground. Honestly though, I don't see what the black "com" jack is doing in between the plus and minus terminals of output #2?

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 05:28:12 pm
content: Nevermind, i think I figured it out; there is actually a third output on this one that is for a negative voltage. The com jack is the return path for both outputs 2 and 3.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 03, 2013, 09:38:47 pm
content: Quote from: PA0PBZ on January 03, 2013, 01:02:06 pmYeah, but it's cheap!Dave.

author: thmjpr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 11:34:27 am
content: Quote from: rbola35618 on January 02, 2013, 11:19:58 pmThere are some pictures here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/tektronix-or-bk/

author: thmjpr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 11:36:16 am
content: Three models in the alibaba link, comma for isolation:DP832A = 30V 3A, 30V/5V 3ADP832 = 30V 3A, 30V/5V 3ADP831A = +/-30V 3A, 8V 5AThere is a small black line drawn between 30V and 5V ground jacks, indicating connection.DP832A/DP831A are $740-770 (close enough to $849 for DP1308A in NA)DP832 is $415 (so maybe $500 for NA)The 832 has either red or green monochrome LCD depending on which sellers pictures you look at (taobao). I don't see any other differences in specs/features, kind of surprised that only color LCD would add $300+ to the price though.DP832 seems like it could be a good deal.

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 12:23:45 pm
content: Quote from: thmjpr on January 06, 2013, 11:36:16 amThe images you attached are all photoshoped. Check the position of the power switch. Not unusual, but just saying reality might be rather different from the images.

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2013, 12:12:59 am
content: So, why would you want to get the +/-30V/2A over the +30V/3A x 2? Guess it costs less? Perhaps the second one can't sink current well, but the first can?

author: thmjpr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2013, 06:00:15 am
content: Quote from: tom66 on January 07, 2013, 12:12:59 amGood point. The cost is almost the same. The only thing I can think is that 30V/3A x 2 might not offer a tracking setting, which would be annoying.DP800 series info is accessible if you go towww.rigol.comand select Chinese, then you can find it under power supplies (use Chrome for translation).If you compare DP832 vs 832A, the cheaper model lists LAN/GPIB/IO as optional, 10mV resolution (optional 1mV) and monochrome LCD. So that explains the large difference in price.I wonder if these are all software upgrades?

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2013, 10:37:52 am
content: Here we have a new class of lab equipment design: HIPSTER LOOK.There is only one thing i have to say about those design: ZOMGWTFROTFLOLBBQ->facepalm.What is next? HannaMontana oscilloscope? Unicorn-shape scope probe? Dusk-saga soldering iron? Dragon-like hot air station? This world is doomed...

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 08, 2013, 11:11:44 am
content: Quote from: poorchava on January 08, 2013, 10:37:52 amI can't wait for Hello Kitty myselfDave.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2013, 01:18:42 pm
content: Metrix (a French test equipment company) already took a stab at that:The display can be lowered into the casing.

author: termi
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2013, 02:08:18 pm
content: @ rbola35618I have the BK 9130 since about two years, and am very happy with it. The possibility to have serial/parallel connections has come in handy quite a few times.I have previously posted pics in this thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/tektronix-or-bk/15/

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2013, 09:01:13 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on January 08, 2013, 11:11:44 amSpecially made for you Dave, enjoy!

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2013, 09:15:56 pm
content: Quote from: Spawn on January 08, 2013, 09:01:13 pmI just reported you to the moderators and Amnesty International for causing incredible pain. And now I am going to cut myself.

author: Spawn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2013, 09:17:47 pm
content: Quote from: Bored@Work on January 08, 2013, 09:15:56 pmlol

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2013, 09:46:01 pm
content: I'll take 3 of those...............

author: Jad.z
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2013, 10:55:22 pm
content: I wonder what the Easter egg would be on that one

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2013, 01:06:00 am
content: I think that something like that with a pink UI would sell like hot cakes

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 09, 2013, 01:18:25 am
content: Quote from: Spawn on January 08, 2013, 09:01:13 pmSNORTDave.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 03:46:20 pm
content: So what do you guys think of the DP832? This is now available from tequipment.net for $409. I realize that the thing looks ugly as hell, and this model is the ugliest of the bunch (I hate the screen / text color), but looks aside, does this look to be a good deal in comparison to both the DP832A and older models from Rigol?http://www.tequipment.net/RigolDP832.html

author: LaurenceW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 05:11:04 pm
content: Spawm, I just p!ssed myself laughing at your power supply make over. You either have too much time on your hands, or are an unrecognised genious.Discuss

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 07:40:43 pm
content: Nobody has any opinions?

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 08:10:05 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on March 22, 2013, 07:40:43 pmBuy it, measure it, open it, inspect it, form an own opinion.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2013, 01:48:47 pm
content: Well, I bought the DP832 along with the 1mV/0.1mA option, and I'll review it for you all when I receive it (it won't be shipping out from Rigol for another month).

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2013, 02:26:16 pm
content: In Czech Republic, we produce nice 1980s style lab power supplies.

author: signals
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 08:57:20 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on April 02, 2013, 01:48:47 pmCan I ask where you ordered it from? I just ordered the A model and was told 7-9 weeks... Maybe the non-A will arrive sooner, or maybe I just need to try another dealer. (Or maybe I just live on the wrong continent.)

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 09:44:08 pm
content: Quote from: Hydrawerk on April 02, 2013, 02:26:16 pm

author: grego
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 09:51:03 pm
content: Quote from: free_electron on April 03, 2013, 09:44:08 pmIs that like "In Soviet Russia, lab power supplies produce YOU"??

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 12:56:18 pm
content: QuoteI ordered it from tequipment.netI am not sure, but I imagine Rigol will be shipping out their DP832/DP832A/DP831A models out all at the same time. I live in Canada, so perhaps outside of North America shipping times are different. This will be Rigol's first shipment of this product, so it may take some time to work out all the kinks of a new product delivery.

author: signals
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 02:13:24 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on April 04, 2013, 12:56:18 pmThanks for the info. I also ordered it from them and was told 7-9 weeks. Hopefully they were just being conservative with my estimate or the DP832A is just going to take a bit longer to get out the door. I'll keep my fingers crossed hope you get yours on schedule.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 02:33:50 pm
content: Quote from: free_electron on April 03, 2013, 09:44:08 pmNo problem, I am not the Diametral company owner.Well, why ugly, they are black as LeCroy.Yes, their power supplies look like if they were home-made by a hobbyist.But check this 26 kg beast. It is a 30V 40A PS.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 03:09:15 pm
content: with a powersupply like that, i honestly wouldn't give a shit how it looked, provided it performed well; if the adjust knobs are rotary encoders or 10 turn pots, there isn't much wrong with it.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 03:20:52 pm
content: That's precisely how I would imagine a 30V 40A supply would look - ugly as sin, just as power stuff should be

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 04:14:38 pm
content: On the other hand, Diametral producesnoswitching power supplies.

author: tequipment
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 05:48:21 pm
content: Guys. Thanks for the business.These are going to be a really good power supply. The 1st units in the USA you will get.Thanks again.Evan CirelliVice President and Co-FounderTEquipment.NET

author: HKJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 06:26:48 pm
content: Quote from: peter.mitchell on April 04, 2013, 03:09:15 pmI do prefer a nicer look, like this:It is only a 800 watt power supply (40A at 20V or 7A at 120V).

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 06:33:36 pm
content: Okay, that looks more modern, but still easy to use, and no fashionable colour LCD 640×480. I like it!Well, Diametral doesn't introduce new products at all.

author: Tepe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 09:27:42 pm
content: Quote from: HKJ on April 04, 2013, 06:26:48 pmNot according to its label.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 09:29:38 pm
content: Quote from: Tepe on April 04, 2013, 09:27:42 pm420W per output.

author: Tepe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 09:34:05 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on April 04, 2013, 09:29:38 pmSort ofSeems to be a nice machine, btw

author: HKJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2013, 10:10:20 pm
content: Quote from: Tepe on April 04, 2013, 09:34:05 pmIt is, but it has a few faults. One of the strong points is network communication, where it is very easy to control. I have tried to control a Rigol DMM over network, but that did not work (There is no simple connection, only the VISA interface).

author: Selectech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2013, 11:07:08 pm
content: Ordered a DP832 to update my bench. A companion to a DS2102 which should arrive next week and a DM3068 I got last summer.One additional plus for Rigol these days is that they have cTUVus certification which makes them legal to plug into electrical outlet in Canada without special inspection { $$ }.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2013, 04:10:52 pm
content: QuoteNice! Rigol definately has the edge over all other companies in terms of features/price. In addition to the DP832 that I will be receiving shortly, I own a DSA815-TG spectrum analyzer, a DM3058 DMM, a DS1102E DSO, and a DG2041A function gen. Now that the next generation of products have arrived, I kindof wished I had the DS2202, DM3068, and DG4162, haha.QuoteEvan, if you are looking for a detailed product/company review, feel free to send me some free stuff anytime

author: tequipment
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2013, 04:49:27 pm
content: Yes I would be. PM me. I need a little background. We are always looking for an HONEST!! review.. Dave has the best ones.. but sometimes I like to have products put though some additional testing..

author: KedasProbe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2013, 05:11:52 pm
content: Someone received it yet?I'm looking around for some (extra) PPS lately:I like the DP832 specs but I have two problems with the DP832- Red display will be hard to read. (why not just white!)- Very deep mechanical design over 41cm, it will stick out too much to be practical(1mV/1mA resolution key adds 71 Euro to the 304 Euro)I'm looking at this more expensive one instead because of thathttp://www.testequipmentdepot.com/instek/powersupplies/gpd-2303s.htmedit: also is it just me or is it weird that the + terminal is put on the left side of the -

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2013, 07:15:19 pm
content: I think you can change the color to red, green, blue and white. If you go to the Chinese website, you can download the user manuel and there is a menu that says "Color theme" and show the colors that you can change to.At least that is how I interpreted. I too was worried about the color red.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-rigol-dc-psu's/?action=dlattach;attach=36195;imageRobert

author: KedasProbe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2013, 09:50:26 am
content: Yes, I see it also now, choosing white instead of red seems to be possible.They should fire the guy who decided to use the red setting for the product pictures!Although they also seem to have made some (acceptable) green ones.Now the only thing I still need is a hole in my wall

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2013, 01:54:18 am
content: Yes I agree, they should fire the guy.

author: rf-loop
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2013, 09:21:35 am
content: Quote from: KedasProbe on May 11, 2013, 09:50:26 amIf I can select this color is only setup what I will use.(perhaps it can be just small amount more "amber".)This display color has many ergonomic advantages. Therefore, this type of color scheme is also used in many demanding applications. But why they all do whjite front panels. Where they have forget example these old HP equipments nice fron panels.Display tells also that even some design peoples in Rigol are clever and there is least one designer who is not "blue led fanboy".But this front anel layout is "do not come to my lab"And also+ (left) - (right) may I ask Why?Then, (I do not know but only this image)Are these terminals really "standard" distance from each other. Or is it "rigol" special.

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2013, 07:03:38 pm
content: Quote from: rf-loop on May 12, 2013, 09:21:35 amIt looks like standard 0.75" spacing to me. Maybe you think they look more separated, specially the ones far from the center of the photo but that's the parallax effect.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2013, 10:33:27 pm
content: My guess is that Rigol corporate had design requirements that the engineers were contractually bound to; one of which stated that the DP832A model must be in some way psychically different from the DP832 (without the A) even when the DP832 has all the extra options enabled. Without the different screen firmware, and the stickers on the front to correlate each channel to its specific colour, they would have been the same.I guess there's only so much you can do with a power supply.

author: berk98
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 21, 2013, 01:31:53 am
content: Hey guys, I just received my DP832, and I can answer some questions. Yes, the binding posts are 0.75" spacing.Also, the display color can be changed. Luckily, there's white which looks much nicer than the others. Interestingly, the only place I can find that has more than one color shown at the same time is in the theme selection.The buttons and menus are a bit difficult to navigate at first, but it feels rock-solid which totally makes up for that.I'll probably do a review sometime, but I am quite busy these days.

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2013, 04:50:20 am
content: Hey,I got my DPS832 yesterday. I will probably do a first impression on the supply.I prefer the green screen.Robert

author: manticore00
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2013, 05:19:46 am
content: My DP832 is due to arrive tomorrow, looking forward to it!

author: nack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2013, 09:35:40 am
content: Interesting thread, will keep an eye on the reviews to appear up here ;-)

author: mwsoft
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2013, 12:16:42 pm
content: Quote from: berk98 on June 21, 2013, 01:31:53 amHey, can you confirm, that PS is indeed so ridiculously deep (41cm)?Can these gray rubber corners be removed?Can you measure real depth of bare case, not taking into account front panel connectors and these rubber things?DP832 looks like real bargain for $400, but my bench is only 32cm deepAny comments on fan noise? When used at home, fans can be really annoying...Overall, after watching photos for 10 minutes, I start to like the designDP832 looks even quite professional with monochrome UI and all the buttons being grayish.But higher models - that's just sad ...It looks like they have fired industrial designer who developed DS2000 series, and they tried to replicate this style by themselvesEspecially function buttons under display looks out of the place...

author: WBB
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2013, 01:20:58 pm
content: Quote from: mwsoft on June 21, 2013, 12:16:42 pmThose look like perfectly placed soft buttons. It's that keypad/knob layout that looks like a train wreck.

author: mwsoft
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2013, 01:34:15 pm
content: Quote from: WBB on June 21, 2013, 01:20:58 pmI was talking about shape / color, not placement / usability

author: WBB
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2013, 02:07:39 pm
content: Quote from: mwsoft on June 21, 2013, 01:34:15 pmGood point. I was looking at the usability aspect, which that keypad is not. With a keypad like that, I'm surprised they didn't put those soft keys on the back panel. Kudos for making those useable.

author: berk98
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 21, 2013, 11:44:10 pm
content: Quote from: mwsoft on June 21, 2013, 12:16:42 pmIt is quite ridiculous, yes. Second only to my full-size rackmount multimeters.Quote from: mwsoft on June 21, 2013, 12:16:42 pmThe rubber corners can be removed. A couple screws hold on each of the front ones, and one on each of the back ones. All metal threaded inserts, too! The unit itself doesn't have any rubber feet, though.The depth of the bare case is about is about 38cm. Add 2.5cm to the front for the binding posts, and about the same to the back for the power connector. At least in the US where I bought mine, the IEC connector is right angled, so you can scoot it right up against a wall or something.Actually, the binding posts stick out further than the rubber corners.Quote from: mwsoft on June 21, 2013, 12:16:42 pmFan noise is actually somewhat annoying. Nowhere near as bad as most of the cheap power supplies I've seen, but definitely a bit louder than my Rigol DS1052E, which I'd probably rate as on the verge of annoying. Its also much more of a hum than a whirr, if you know what I mean. The fan does seem to be temperature controlled, but it doesn't completely turn off with no load.Quote from: mwsoft on June 21, 2013, 12:16:42 pmDesign certainly isn't bad. There are a handful of quirks about the UI which I wish Rigol would update/change, but its easy to get used to it. It also looks much more professional without the rubber corners. It's too bad your bench is too short, because I'd definitely recommend this as a decent programmable power supply, especially for the price.

author: MrRedHat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 22, 2013, 05:49:41 pm
content: I’m thinking of getting the DP832, but I can’t tell the difference between the DP832A and the DP832? The only thing I can tell is the OVP and OCP increments, otherwise is there any other differences?

author: KedasProbe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2013, 06:34:15 pm
content: Quote from: MrRedHat on June 22, 2013, 05:49:41 pmDid you check the GUI? and the options are already included.

author: manticore00
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2013, 08:41:10 pm
content: My DP832 arrived yesterday and I generally like it but one gripe I developed quickly was the circular arrangement of the number keys, it's just not intuitive at all.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2013, 08:52:20 pm
content: Quote from: MrRedHat on June 22, 2013, 05:49:41 pmI can't answer your question, but nice to have you aboard fellow OSS brother.

author: lkftwin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 23, 2013, 09:06:03 pm
content: I am interested in this supply... but I only have limited money, so the 832 is much more interesting. I DO note that on Rigol's site:http://www.rigolna.com/products/dc-power-supplies/dp800/dp832/under the Accessories tab, you can purchase the hi-res resolution (1mV/1mA) upgrade for $93 and the screenshot is in full color.Interestingly, everyone is saying that the display on the 832 is monochrome. Obviously not, as berk98's photo shows! The default *GUI* is monochrome, but obviously it's a multicolored display.It seems likely that the 832a is the same hardware as the 832 minus the software upgrades. That being the case, I wonder if the high resolution upgrade "enables" the full color display.

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2013, 04:13:24 am
content: No it does not. I have the 832with the 1mV option and the screen is still one color. You can select between orange, green, light blue, or white. I chose the green color theme.

author: Uup
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2013, 08:38:49 am
content: The hardware is most likely the same between the DP832 and the DP832A. Hardware wise, the 'A' version comes standard with RS232, LAN and digital I/O, rather than being options. The high resolution mode is likely just something activated via a key/firmware, rather than a hardware change.I ordered a DP832A a week ago and should be getting it in the next week or so. I can post some internal pictures of it and do a mini review, if there's any interest.

author: nack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2013, 09:07:14 am
content: @ UupPlease do ;-)

author: dmginc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2013, 09:30:57 am
content: Would anyone with the DP832A/DP831A be kind enough to measure the width of the device with the corner protectors removed?Need to know if I can make room for it!Thanks!

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2013, 05:21:03 pm
content: QuoteThe DP832 is the EXACT same hardware as teh DP832A with the exception of the channel-enable buttons being colour coded on the DP832A. The firmware for controlling the screen on these two models is different, but the screen itself is the same. Also, the DP832A comes with the High Resolution, RS232/LAN/GBIB, and Trigger In/Out Add-Ons, whereas with the DP832 you need to purchase these optional accessories seperately and enter codes to activiate them. The physical connectors are already included on the DP832, they are just not useable until the firmware activates them.

author: MasterOfNone
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2013, 06:32:44 pm
content: Quote from: dmginc on June 24, 2013, 09:30:57 amWell I didn’t remove the corner protectors I just measured the width of the unit underneath the top protects. You’ll need around 22cm because the handle on the side sticks out a little. Also remember there are vents are on the side, so you’ll need to take that into account as well.Hope that helps.

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2013, 04:53:41 am
content: Short video on the Rigol DP832 power supply

author: thmjpr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2013, 05:16:42 am
content: Quote from: rbola35618 on June 26, 2013, 04:53:41 amthanks, nice quick intro of the unit. The display update rate seems a bit faster than the dp1308a which is good.

author: nack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2013, 12:29:10 pm
content: I have also ordered a DP832 from my local Rigol dealer. It is supposed to be shipping from China in about two weeks.For the specs and price (305 euro's excl. VAT) it should be a really nice unit.

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2013, 12:43:05 pm
content: My DP832 arrived today.I had been looking at the Instek GPC3030D, having been happy with one before.First impressions are weird numeric pad, but I'm old enough to remember rotary dial phones, damm I spent a month of in a telephone exchange with Strowger switches as an apprentice - google that one! I digress.This a solid, well made unit with quite an intuitive interface. My Fluke 87 III says the thing is within spec, but I'll leave the characterisation to better equipped labs.Sadly I won't get time to give a workout for a week or soSummary , so far I think I spent well.

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2013, 07:45:55 pm
content: I don't think it loud at all. What I had on was the BK electronic load. That's the one that was making all that noise. I also have a small fan.I maxed channel one with 100 watt and I don't recall hearing a fan come on. I will recheck just to make sure.

author: nack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2013, 09:35:40 pm
content: Nice, my DP832 arrived today after two weeks of delivery straight from the Rigol factory. Massively heavy peace of kit!!Haven't done testing on the unit but it operates really well. Even the (initially) funky looking rotary buttons, they are actually quite useful.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2013, 04:24:44 pm
content: My DP832 + HiRes add-on just arrived the other day. So far I am very impressed with the overall build quality.Ease of use is my only complaint so far (which I sort of expected). Using the buttons surrounding the rotary knob is unintuitive and even difficult (finger keeps hitting the wrong buttons). Channels 1 and 2 are isolated and can be placed in series to increase voltage, or parallel to increase current, but there is no internal relay for doing this, which means an extra two wires are required to physically connect the banana jacks. Not the end of the world, but it would have been nice.It isn't as accurate as I was hoping for; in fact mine doesn't even meet its specification at certain values, but it is still good enough for the types of things I'll be using it for; and with the HiRes add-on, I can make fine adjustments to the output.Honestly, there isn't much to power supplies, but so far I am happy with this one.

author: Selectech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2013, 10:33:15 pm
content: Mine arrived last week.Working fine. Getting used to the buttons, but ok.The low fan noise is not a big deal with all the other stuff in my shop.Most computers make more noise.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 23, 2013, 11:12:36 pm
content: Quote from: Selectech on July 23, 2013, 10:33:15 pmWhich one did you order?I ordered a DP832A and they suggested towards the end of July, which is nowI'm getting anxious!

author: enclab
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 24, 2013, 02:20:36 am
content: Based on the available documentation, it looks like the options are based on fixed keys.Did everyone that got the HiRes option receive the same option key?Perhaps the DP832 can be unlocked much like the DS1052/1102?

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2013, 02:27:44 am
content: QuoteIt doesn't work that way unfortunately. I purchased the HiRes add-on, and I received a code that I used on Rigol's website, along with my DP832's serial number, to generate a device specific code. However, if I try to re-generate the code on their website (even with the same serial) it says "sorry, this code has already been used".

author: Selectech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2013, 12:41:52 pm
content: I got the DP832. I might add hi-res later, but for now the DP832 is replacing some older units and freeing up some bench space. Compared to the my old units, non-programmable, the resolution of the 832 is just fine.I do plan to use the programming functions of the unit for some of my automated test & characterization work.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2013, 01:51:05 pm
content: The good thing about the DP832 is that the add-ons are quite cheap. Less than $100 for the HiRes module; I realize that PSU's are cheaper anyhow, including the base unit, but it's not really as important in my opinion that this guy get hacked as is with the DSO's and spectrum analyzers, whose pimped out packages cost thousands more.

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 11:59:07 am
content: Hi All,I bought an DP832 which was delivered a few weeks ago. Tonight I finally had time to rip it open. Guess What I found , yep no surprises at a really. Cursory first peek its a software crippled DP832A and is even labeled as such.Pics below, sorry just with the phone cam at the moment, I will get some better snaps up later if no one beats me to it. What is not shown here though is the quality mechanical construction - things like press fit mounting nuts on the metals panel etc. Not bolted through or tapped. So far I am happy I spent the $$$

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 12:38:03 pm
content: Now having looked over both models specs, what is different short of 1mV resolution on voltage, a colour LCD and a slightly worse UI on the A modelafter all the models are roughly $300 apart

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 12:59:36 pm
content: QuoteThe hardware is the EXACT same between the two models. The 1mV resolution that you mentioned can be unlocked on the non-A model via a $93 license code purchased from Rigol. The screen is color too, just the DP832's screen has been programmed to be monochrome... you can still switch which colour is displayed.

author: crt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 01:03:42 pm
content: @mickpahThank's for photosSo they have two boards (with heatsink face to face), right ?Love those BIG TOROID Transformers

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2013, 09:58:27 pm
content: Quote from: crt on July 25, 2013, 01:03:42 pmHi, yes they are face to face. I am guessing the bottom board looks after the CH1&2 30v supplies ant the top CH3 5v. I literally undid the case screws(torx) and snapped the photos and posted. Now I've had a another quick look it the front panel has the main processor as the i/o ports on the top board are fed from there. It's going to take quite a bit more disassembly to get some photos of that, but I think I can see a Jtag on it. I'll try to do this over the weekend . oh and yes the toroid looks like quality and is one heavy mother, as they are

author: nquantum
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 05:37:05 am
content: Anyone have any reason to choose old model like DP1116A instead of new model DP832/832A? Except for more pretty look?Coz I like the look of old model but new model seem to have better spec.thank.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 01:31:06 pm
content: QuoteI don't know which model it is, but the high current variant of the older models has a kelvin (4-wire) measurement option so that you can set the voltage at the tip and not have to worry about the loss in the wire. This can be useful, but it required unless your load changes quickly.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 01:39:43 pm
content: I have not been following these supplies much, but just realised the DP832 is almost half the price of the other two model in that series:http://www.eyou.com.au/category/programmable-dc-power-supply/Even without hi-res upgrade that, it looks like great value. Tempted to get one and ditch my stupid Atten.

author: nquantum
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 01:58:17 pm
content: QuoteI've also notice that spec and price. So the old model DP1116A,DP1308A is not interesting anymore? Only good look? I personal like its look and GUI

author: Uup
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 02:17:19 pm
content: I think the hi-res option is likely software only, since there is a menu option to enter licence keys. It may require a calibration afterwards though, but there's also a menu option for self & factory calibration.I have a DP832A and can confirm that the pictures posted above of a DP832 are more or less the same as an 832A. I also took some pictures of the internals of mine and will post them tomorrow. I'll also post some pictures of the UI and menu options for comparison.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 03:01:03 pm
content: QuoteI own the DP832 and the Hi-Res add-on. I can confirm that this add-on (as well as the others) is just a matter of entering the license code and cycling power (no recalibration is required). There actually is an option in the utility menu for recalibrating, but I wouldn't bother unless you know it's out of calibration -- each unit comes factory calibrated, and since this device was just released, they should all be in spec right now.

author: nack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 06:03:22 pm
content: I just bought the High-res option for my DP832. You have to buy a serial key which is to be submitted together with your Supplies serial number on a Rigol website which returns your license code. Still excellent bang-per buck if you ask me. Build quality is really nice, really solid materials. The graphic LCD screen is fabulous, the viewing angles amazing. Much better than the character LCD Rigol uses on my DG1022.Accuracy wise, it appears to be in spec too. Mine was calibrated in the middle of June 2013Two pictures before and after the high resolution option.

author: nack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 06:05:00 pm
content: A small downside is the fact that the voltage on the display is not shown (reads 00.000) if a live voltage is present on the input terminals with outputs disabled.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 06:05:55 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on July 29, 2013, 01:39:43 pmI had a DP832a on order, but I changed to the 832.When you look at the specs, there is really nothing that makes the A model worth the price premium, especially considering the hi-res option on the standard 832 model. I guess the color screen is nice.The guy over at Signal Path did a good review of the older model (higher current) Rigol supply. He seemed pretty impressed, but I think he's sponsored by Rigol too (not that it means he's a shill, his review still seemed very factual).

author: nquantum
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 06:17:33 pm
content: Do you think new one DP832 will beat old one on everything? DP1116A, DP1308 I mean.

author: enclab
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 10:02:39 pm
content: Hey, Mickpah:That 8-pin chip looks like a serial EEPROM. They may be storing all the configuration on that chip.Now that you've got it open, feel like putting a couple probes on there and snooping the start-up sequence?

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 10:10:13 pm
content: Quote from: enclab on July 29, 2013, 10:02:39 pmmisleading , more pic's to come. That appears to be a local controller for each of the regulator sub boards. The main controller looks to be a freescale arm , not the AD blackfin Rigol have been using in other products.http://www.freescale.com/webapp/sps/site/prod_summary.jsp?code=i.MX283&webpageId=128508650710870538A24A&nodeId=018rH3ZrDRA24A&fromPage=tax

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 29, 2013, 11:32:52 pm
content: Quote from: nquantum on July 29, 2013, 06:17:33 pmI don't think the 832 is designed to replace the 1116. The 1116 is significantly higher powered, with 10A on the 16V output and 5A on the 32V. The 832 can only do 3A on each of it's outputs.As for the 1308, it seems to be beaten in every way by the DP831, IMO. The 831 has higher (and lower) voltage, more current on every channel, finer resolution, and it's $140 cheaper to boot. The 831 definitely seems superior to the 1308.The 832 is not superior to the 1116, just different. I almost went with the 1116, except I would use the third output more than I would use the extra current of the 1116, and I HATE power supplies without a rotating knob for adjustment - absolutely hate when they don't have it. I already have a 20V/120A Agilent supply for when I need high current.

author: nquantum
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2013, 07:02:26 am
content: Yes! That is what I'd like to hear for comment.QuoteActually for 832 ,if I invert connection wire to their terminal (ex. Connect - to terminal + and connect + to terminal - of ch1) I got the - voltage already, am I right?Is there any problem with that?

author: nack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2013, 09:50:00 am
content: Wiring the plus terminal of one channel to the negative-ground terminal of the other channel, and using the negative-ground terminal of the first channel indeed gives you a negative output (with respect to the negative-ground reference of the second channel). I use it all the time this way... The outputs are floating so no problem. There is a option in the menu to track channel one and two which is quite handy in that case.

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2013, 10:26:13 am
content: This wasn't really meant to be a tear down - I ain't' no Dave ! just giving you guys a peek inside the boxA few more hurried (from phone only) pic's as promised, sorry the job that the pays the bills is getting in the way of fun.These are of the main controller board front and back and the display/keyboard pcb. The mess of glue on the keyboard pcd is to hold the pass through ribbon from the display in place, it looks messier in the photo than it really is.Overall I have yet to find any bodges, the boards are all version 2 and the only thing I can't pick is a bit of flux residue from hand soldered connectorsInteresting they have moved away from Blackfin and use a Freescale iMX28 series processor in this, Freescale call this a multimedia processor. Interesting choice. I wonder if the inbuilt DRM for license management was a consideration?http://www.freescale.com/webapp/sps/site/prod_summary.jsp?code=i.MX283&webpageId=128508650710870538A24A&nodeId=018rH3ZrDRA24A&fromPage=tax

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2013, 11:28:08 am
content: QuoteI imagine the Blackfin in the DSA815/DS2000/DS4000 were used accross more than one line of prodcusts because the software layout is very similar for all of these prodcuts and it just makes sense to re-use code that's already been written. For this power supply, the screen is different; the menus are different... there really isn't much software in the DSO's that can be used in something like this. May as well use a cheaper MCU. Besides, without the need for signal processing capabilities, I can't see why to choose Blackfin.Nice pictures!

author: nquantum
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2013, 05:32:45 pm
content: QuoteThat is interesting! Also the price of it!So think I'll get DP832A so soon. That is sound better than DP1308A. And maybe I'll have DP1116A later.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 12:43:18 am
content: I've got a DP-832 on order, should come end of next week. Also the hi-res option.Cost practically the same as my ATTEN PSU, but looks like it will work infinitely better.The ATTEN has the 3rd channel isolated and slightly better specs, but I think it will be chalk and cheese.Will find out...

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 01:34:31 am
content: Quote from: EEVblog on July 31, 2013, 12:43:18 amtoo funny !! did we influence you to buy something ? the ratio must be at least 8:1 in your favor now in my case

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 01:58:03 am
content: Quote from: mickpah on July 31, 2013, 01:34:31 amNo, the price did!I had no idea the 832 model was so cheap (relatively)

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 02:41:38 am
content: yep the bang/$$ ratios is good.Disabling features in software for entry is annoying or good marketing depending on which side of the fence you sit, but that being said they would not have got a sale from me at $700-800. Most of the options are far from essential for needs.As i said before it has quirks, the niggle for me is not the numerical keypad layout it's having to use the cursor to jump between decimal places when setting voltage or current via the knob. There might be a preference to change this but haven't seen it yet.overall though I am very happy

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 02:58:13 am
content: Quote from: mickpah on July 31, 2013, 02:41:38 amExactly. I would not have paid that personally for my own use. The $400 mark is much closer to the "impulse" buy range. And they sucked me into the hi-res option with it's attractive pricing too.QuoteThat will annoy the crap out of me too, but still infinitely less than the ATTEN supply I'm sure.

author: Uup
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 11:57:33 am
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on July 29, 2013, 06:05:55 pmI went through the opposite situation. I bought a DP832, for a good price too (AUD$340+GST), then while waiting for delivery discovered that it didn’t come with LAN or the digital I/O. So I called them and was able to change to an 832A, for a similarly good price as well.There’s actually more differences between the two versions than what is indicated in the Rigol specification comparison doc. If you're developing a product and need a (semi)automated means of testing and verifying your product then the extra features of the ‘A’ version are useful. The analysis function is good for documentation as well.However, you are right. The 832 is much better value if you don’t need those additional functions.

author: Uup
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 12:02:45 pm
content: Quote from: mickpah on July 31, 2013, 02:41:38 amI also found the cursor a little awkward to use at first as well. I now like it, as it is a quick means of setting the adjustment precision. For example, if the cursor is moved to the right most position then turning the knob gives a more precise adjustment. Moving it to the left provides a coarser adjustment. I consider it a feature now.What I find annoying is the multiplexed controls and finding myself constantly pressing buttons. There's not much that can be done to prevent that though. I found configuring the presets, as well as using the PC control, to be a time saver.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 12:03:20 pm
content: Quote from: Uup on July 31, 2013, 11:57:33 amDo anyone have picture of the backside of the DP832?, I wonder if the hardware for LAN and digital io is there (Not sure if the pictures on rigol site is of the 832a or 832, but it shows with this hardware in place there)If so, software upgrades would enable this.. and based on another thread here.....

author: Uup
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 12:23:01 pm
content: Since mickpah has already posted internal pictures of his DP832, and that it is essentially the same as the ‘A’ version, then I won’t duplicate the effort and post the same pictures.However, I will post some other pictures of a DP832A that may be interesting.The following three pictures are of the three standard screens.The first displays all three channels, the second is the dial display and the third is the waveform display. The animation on the dial screen is good but I find it too laggy to be useful as an instrument.The following is a picture of the top board flipped over, exposing the internals. It gives an idea of the orientation of the boards. The back of the unit is towards the front of the picture.The toroid is labelled slightly differently in my one… 400VA?Looks like those “Motherless Goats” also laser etched the chip IDs off many ICs in my one as well.The following screen shows the default options on an 832A. What are the default options on an 832?The following are the functions available on the Advanced screen. Are these functions available on an 832?I worked out how to display the full details in the system info screen. It also enables an extra option to clean (clear and factory reset) the memory.To display the full details press the following soft buttons in sequence, when in the system info screen.1 – 3 – 4 – 2 where the soft buttons (buttons under the LCD) are numbered from left to right.Looking at the top board picture that mickpah posted, it appears as though the DP832 has the LAN, RS232 and digital I/O connectors populated. The back of those connectors can just be seen in his picture. If they are installed on an 832, then (cosmetic differences aside) the hardware would most likely be identical between the 832 and the 832A. Looks like another exercise in ‘sniffing’ is warranted…

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 01:04:05 pm
content: I really don't like the triangle layout of the A version main screen, it's just stupid. The column based one on the non-A version is much nicer.

author: Uup
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 02:25:16 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on July 31, 2013, 01:04:05 pmYes, I agree. It’s not intuitive to look at and caused me to often take several seconds to identify the information that I was looking for. Although, I’m familiar with it now.I can’t think of a good reason why they would choose such an unintuitive layout. All I can think of is that they were somehow pressured into coming up with a means to differentiate between the two models in an obvious way. Hence the minor cosmetic and UI differences with otherwise identical hardware.At least it got my wife’s approval. She has only ever made two memorable comments about my gear, and one was about the DP832A. She said it was ‘cute’. Not the sort of comment I was really expecting.The ‘Hello Kitty’ version, posted earlier in this thread, immediately came to mind. She would have loved that version!

author: etc6849
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 04:30:02 pm
content: Yeah, I'm not in love with the layout of the GUI either. I do like the color coded idea, I just wish they chose different colors.My DP832a is on back order (another 3-4 weeks) according to Tequipment.net... Is there another alternative I should be considering for a DIY'er or is there another US vendor that may have the DP832a in stock?

author: MrRedHat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 05:00:35 pm
content: Quote from: etc6849 on July 31, 2013, 04:30:02 pmGood luck with Tequipment.net. I’ve been waiting for six weeks and I still haven’t gotten mine. I would have never gotten it if I didn’t complain. I should have gotten it a week ago, but it seems that they sent it to the wrong person! Good luck in your wait.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 05:21:41 pm
content: Overall I still prefer my Instek GPS-4303 for everyday use; however, the DP832 is great when a programmable supply is needed. The Rigol unit has a more accurate output, but when you use lots of current, loss throgh the wire (ohm's law) still applies, so it's not as useful as you might think. It's noisy, but very well built.Now time to learn LabView!

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 09:02:09 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on July 31, 2013, 05:21:41 pmInstek and Atten, isn't those mostly the same?Cannot decide what to get, these rigols looks nice, but they are very big, too big for my desk, and after reading the manual, wow, too many features

author: plesa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 09:11:44 pm
content: Does anybody know about the noise level comparsion with Rigol DP1308A or HP/Agilent E3631A. The old DP1308 seems to be more noisy than old HP/Agilent.It is annoying to work in the lab with few these PSU on the bench running.

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2013, 09:47:58 pm
content: Quote from: Uup on July 31, 2013, 12:23:01 pmthanks Uup, confirms my suspicions, the DP832 is a DP832A with firmware lockdown, all the hardware is there.That really does appear to be a jtag header on the controller board. Interesting they laser etched what appears to be the local mcu's on the power boards and didn't bother with the controller ? oversight or confidence in the Freescale DRM toolkit ? we'll see I guess

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 08:58:48 am
content: Can someone post a pic of the back of a DP832? I wonder what would be involved in adding the LAN and other ports?Also, re: the comments about tequipment... They have a shipment of 832 and 832a's coming tomorrow and are supposed to be shipping a bunch out then. I don't know if they have more orders than units to ship so I can't say if all back orders will ship, but I just got a shipment update email on my 832 Yesterday, so they are on their way!

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 09:03:33 am
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on August 01, 2013, 08:58:48 amAll the ports are included and are a software option.

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 09:05:04 am
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on August 01, 2013, 08:58:48 amcan't take a photo now - but I can assure you it's the same as a DP832A. Lan & 232 are software key only options - no hardware upgrade required.They even supply the plug for the trigger port in the base unit and the software is disabled by default.These are so ripe for a good'ole Rigol I2C sniff- (or jtag in this case

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 09:07:19 am
content: And all options are priced at €71 each, except the Lan&RS232 which is €92.What are use-cases for the Digital IO?

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 09:14:05 am
content: Quote from: neslekkim on August 01, 2013, 09:07:19 amI haven't looked into the details, but presumably it's for the programming feature built in. i.e. you can program step changes in the voltage at set times etc, and presumably you can assign digital output to control stuff in sync with that.

author: crt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 02:03:12 pm
content: DP832 ==> 500VADP832A==> 400VAI don't get it, maybe they just put a wrong stiker on it

author: Uup
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 02:49:49 pm
content: Quote from: neslekkim on August 01, 2013, 09:07:19 amIt is user configurable.I recently used it on a new design - to monitor a reset and a POST pass signal, whilst programming the 832A to slowly ramp the voltage up then down. The entire process was recorded by the 832A for later analysis.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 06:20:33 pm
content: Quote from: mickpah on August 01, 2013, 09:05:04 amthanks!I had originally ordered the 832A, but after looking at the specs and seeing the price of the hires option, I didn't really see why I would want an 832A over the regular 832 that was about half the price. I must have misread a previous comment and thought the 832 did not come with the digital/LAN ports, which I was very much hoping to use. I'm very happy they are includedIt's pretty smart, IMO, for Rigol to keep the price of the hardware lower and provide *value* in the options.I will buy the hires option because it's worth it. I hope Rigol keeps the value trend going, I bet it's going very well for them.On a side note, I got a tracking number today on my DP832. If it shows up, I guess I will be working this weekend(aka, want to play with my new toy!)

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 08:57:17 pm
content: I feel stupid for asking this, but what is the purpose of the OCP (Over Current Protection) and OVP (Over Voltage Protection) options in the DP832? There is already a current limit and voltage set.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 09:16:08 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on August 01, 2013, 08:57:17 pmIt's to prevent a PEBCAK error from blowing up your board.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 09:30:35 pm
content: QuoteCan you elaborate on that Dave? Perhaps an example would help.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 09:38:21 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on August 01, 2013, 09:30:35 pmYou set your voltage and current for your project as per normal.Now you know if you blow that board your life will end, so you set the over voltage and over current protections just above the thresholds. That now prevents you from accidentally changing the voltage and current to blow your board up, maybe while adjusting another channel.It's traditionally designed to protect against harwdare failure in the supply, but that's usually not how it works any more.

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 09:39:07 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on August 01, 2013, 09:30:35 pmwow, that's leading with your chin

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 09:54:21 pm
content: Wow. So this is where the test equipment industry is headed. Industrial design inspired by Fisher-Price and putting ever larger LCD's into these. I'm just waiting to snap up my mickey-mouse branded 50" 4k Agilent 344601!

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 10:23:54 pm
content: Quote from: echen1024 on August 01, 2013, 09:54:21 pmYou probably missed the special edition earlier in this thread, courtesy by a forum member

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 10:32:23 pm
content: Quote from: echen1024 on August 01, 2013, 09:54:21 pmI love the big graphical screens, it can present lots of useful info.Yes, the industrial design looks stupid with the round keypads and wanky flared rubber boots.

author: Uup
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 11:11:49 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on August 01, 2013, 09:30:35 pmDave gave you an example but there are many situations where an over voltage/current situation (above the setpoint limits) could occur, that could cause damage to the circuit being powered.These PSUs are usually used in a prototyping environment and often more than one output is used. For example, if a circuit were being supplied 2.5V, 5V and 12V and there were a short between two or more power rails, due to component failure or an accident, then the voltage and or current on a powet rail could exceed the setpoint limits. That's where OVP and OCP could protect the circuit by shutting down the output.This situation could also occur using a single output, depending on the type of devices in the circuit being powered.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 11:15:21 pm
content: Quote from: Uup on August 01, 2013, 11:11:49 pmThat does of course depend on how the OVP and OCP is implemented in the hardware. Some are just GUI software solutions.

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 11:16:14 pm
content: I don't mind the front design, actually, I grown to like it. I have both the Atten which Dave owns and I can say that I like the Rigol much better. I brought my Rigol in to work and showed it to my boss. He liked it and ordered two units.Robert

author: MasterOfNone
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 11:23:55 pm
content: I actually wish the screen was bigger, Siglent seem to have the right idea putting a whopping 4.3” screen in the SPD3303 PSU’s. It wont be long before watches have lager screens than the DP800 series, you mark my words (and that‘s also ladies watches). You almost need a magnifying glass to see the voltage/current that is set for each channel. The large numbers used for the output voltage/current is easy to see, I wish they had another layout on the DP832 with larger fonts for the voltage/current set.Also if you like tweaking the voltage on your PSU’s using the knob (while the output is enabled), then it's a really good to set the OVP on the DP832 because the knob defaults to changing the 10v units and you can’t seem to change the default to something sensible like 10mv (or even 100mv).

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2013, 11:25:39 pm
content: Quote from: rbola35618 on August 01, 2013, 11:16:14 pmfor me it does what the primary job is - supply power and the interface is not that bad really.For another piece of gear I was actually going to setup a dedicated key pad controller for shortcuts/preset , but I can't find a USB/TMC library for any mcu. I think someone - harvs ? has done something like this using a Raspberry pi ? so if it distresses you that much you can make your own interface.

author: Uup
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2013, 12:02:52 am
content: Quote from: EEVblog on August 01, 2013, 11:15:21 pmYou are right of course. I haven't used that function yet so I can't say how well it works.

author: Uup
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2013, 12:12:10 am
content: I actually 'test drove' the Siglent and really liked the display. The waveform screens show much more detail than what can be seen on the screen on the Rigol. Unfortunately, it has half the functions and is not as good as the Rigol. So I ended up getting the Rigol.I may still get one if those Siglent power supplies for the heck of it. The display is very nice, but only has indication for two channels.

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2013, 12:22:48 am
content: Quote from: EEVblog on August 01, 2013, 10:32:23 pmSee Dave, the problem is, big graphical displays come in handy, but only until a certain point. Sure, one may argue that this display is great, and I think the size is good for a DC PSU. However looking at the trends, pretty much we are soon going to have PSU's with HDMI outs so you can show your guests your PSU/Spectrum analyzer/DSO on your TV.

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2013, 04:23:45 am
content: Quote from: mickpah on August 01, 2013, 11:25:39 pmI have implemented USBTMC for a commercial project (sorry, no code). It is not too difficult to do so when you already have a basic USB library for the MCU. The specs are available and readable, the protocol is relatively simple, although a bit silly.

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2013, 04:28:13 am
content: Quote from: Bored@Work on August 02, 2013, 04:23:45 amyes, you're right of course thanks for saying don't be lazy so politely

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2013, 05:00:14 am
content: Quote from: mickpah on August 02, 2013, 04:28:13 amJust so you no longer have an excusehttp://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs/USBTMC_1_006a.zipThe main USBTMC spec is just 40 pages. The optional USB488 subclass is a bit more annoying, although it is just 30 pages.

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2013, 05:35:12 am
content: Gee thanks

author: MasterOfNone
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2013, 04:50:44 pm
content: Quote from: Uup on August 02, 2013, 12:12:10 amThat’s the trouble it looks like Siglent designed a nice dual output power supply and at the last minute decided to make it triple output by tacking-on an extra output. They added the output without even providing basic features like current limit, or showing how much current is being drawn.I was really tempted by features like being able to internally switch to parallel mode (for double the current), or serial mode (for split rails). But I knew I would be using that third output a lot, so the Siglent wasn’t for me and I’m pretty sure I made the right choice by getting the Rigol.By the way, I was only joking about the watch size screen, in my opinion Rigol just need to make some of the fonts a little bolder and sort-out a few UI quirks with a firmware update.

author: signals
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2013, 08:57:44 pm
content: Well, after waiting a little over 4 months from the time I ordered to delivery. I finally have my new DP832A! I haven't done any serious testing with it yet, but I did hook it up and play a little this afternoon. So far, I haven't found anything too egregious. It seems like a fairly high quality unit.It came with a nice (but thin) shorting bar, and 3 (count 'em THREE) fuses. Nice touch, and certainly unexpected from a Chinese import. I'm kind of surprised I even got one. The quick-start guide and PDF manual aren't too shabby either, at least if you consider where they came from.Under normal loads (well, normal for me) the fan is actually significantly quieter than my Rigol DS2102, and only a little louder than the scope when running full bore on all 3 channels. I was expecting its fan to be much louder, but I was pleasantly surprised.One odd thing I noticed is that in CC mode, it is overshooting by 100% when you turn the output on. But, it's back to the proper voltage after about 300 us. The 100% overshoot might have something to do with the extremely low value resistor I'm using as a load (It's the best I could do with the scraps in my junk drawer) and the tiny voltages it needs to hit the CC limit. Maybe if I was looking for 10V instead of 0.1V to hit the CC limit, the overshoot wouldn't be so bad. I'll have to check it out if I can find an appropriate value power resistor to use as a load.EDIT: I found a larger value power resistor. The overshoot seems to have been from the extremely low voltage required to get to the CC limit. There is no overshoot at all (that I can see with my scope) when powering on now. Since it would be unlikely that I would be powering anything that looks like a <1Ohm load with this PSU, it's probably not a big deal at all.It's voltage setting and read-back seem to be spot on. Or at least it's close enough that I can't measure the error with my 87V. I'm within 1mV in absolute terms, and relative changes are perfect. I haven't attempted any external measurements of current yet.The UI is wonky. The triangular 3-way display is odd to say the least. But, I do like the color coding for the waveform display; it changes the background to the color for whatever channel is currently selected. I probably shouldn't have sprung for the A-model, but when I ordered it the only pictures I could find of a non-A model had a red display, and I'm red-green colorblind so that wasn't going to work. Only recently have I discovered that you can change the colors on the non-A version.Oh well. I'm pretty sure it won't take long to get used to, but if I were to do it again I might go for a fully upgraded non-A model over the 832A. The other minor UI gripe is that the display for setting the voltage and current is so small it's hard to read unless you are very close to the display. My typical use case will be to set it and forget it, so it's a minor annoyance to me.I discovered there's a Display->Custom GUI menu that asks what file to load from USB storage. It got my hopes up that maybe I'd be able to change the layout of the GUI. Unfortunately, after consulting the manual, it appears that you can only add custom graphics to the boot-up screen that says "Rigol." You can't change anything else.So far I'm impressed and I think it's a fine unit for the money. I don't have the expertise to conduct a thorough test of the unit, or to do a proper write-up/review, but I figured I'd probably better post some sort of initial impressions because the product is so new, and so few people have one yet. Honestly, I'm dangerously under-qualified to be telling people if this thing is good or not, so take anything I've said with a boulder of salt. But, what's the Internet for if not to read the opinions of noobs?

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2013, 11:36:01 pm
content: Quote from: rbola35618 on January 03, 2013, 04:40:58 pmI saw some subsequent discussion about this; what did you guys determine? Is there any isolation in the Rigols or not? Thx

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2013, 12:02:57 am
content: Quote from: Uup on July 31, 2013, 11:57:33 am

author: warp_foo
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 06, 2013, 03:23:43 am
content: Just received my 832 today, and so far it seems like a very nicely built unit.I decided, at this time, not to get any of the options enabled. Although I am likely to get the ethernet option enabled sooner or later, I'm curious about the 1mV/1mA 'high resolution' option. I'm sure someone will consider replying with 'if you don't know, you don't need it' answer, but under what circumstances/use cases are increments that small useful?Thanks,m

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2013, 01:04:39 pm
content: QuoteIt is entirely up to you to decide whether or not you will need the extra precision; however, I will just say to remember that this add-on does not improve the accuracy of the PSU, only the precision in which you can fine tune the output. So for instance, if you tell the PSU to output 5.000V, it may actually output 5.003V. With the default precision of the instrument, you will be stuck with either 4.993 or 5.013 when you move the knob. However, with the added precision, you can fine tune the output to be 5.000 (as read by a multimeter).Another potential useful use for this is determining the current-gain of BJT's for instance; you can increase the Base-Emitted current by 1mA and see how much the Collector-Emitter current increases. Just food for thought.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 06, 2013, 01:06:41 pm
content: There is a delay in my 832 shipment, so I won't get mine this week.

author: ElectroIrradiator
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2013, 03:33:14 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on August 06, 2013, 01:06:41 pmIn other news somebody at Rigol HQ just received aBlue Letter, after which the shipment to Mr. Dave Jones, Sydney, has mysteriously been delayed. The delay happen to have the same length as the time required for an express shipment to Australia, plus a bit for 'extra' testing at the factory.

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2013, 03:46:44 pm
content: Quote from: ElectroIrradiator on August 06, 2013, 03:33:14 pmIn Chinese newspapers today: EXTRA! EXTRA! Chinese Test Equipment Manufacturer Goes Down!(Xinhua) Chinese test equipment manufacturer Rigol has recently went down after a delayed DC power supply to the crazy Aussie, Dave Jones, host of the popular YouTube(Which is blocked here) channel, EEVBlog. He is quoted as saying "That's a heap of shit!" Mr. Jones, who ordered a new DC power supply, commonly used in electronic circuit design, expected it to arrive on 8/7/2013 Beijing time. However, due to unforeseen circumstances at the Rigol factory, his shipment was delayed for 3 days. In an internet video, he is seen ranting on about Chinese products, calling them impure names. Millions of Chinese are outraged and want full nuclear war on Australia. More on this story when we come back. (9:46 Beijing time)

author: MasterOfNone
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2013, 11:17:27 pm
content: Quote from: Electro Fan on August 05, 2013, 11:36:01 pmThe outputs are isolated from ground (earth) however Channel 2 and Channel 3 have their negative terminals connected together. For example you cannot connect all three outputs in series, the maximum voltage is 33V+33V not 33V+33V+5.5V.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 07, 2013, 02:52:43 am
content: I had the opportunity to put the DP832 through some more challenging tests today... I needed to chart the thermals on an LED board. The board has a divider with a thermistor to measure temperature... so I had the DP832 going through various voltage/current levels and my Fluke meter was recording the voltages and my cheap POS temperature datalogger (actually it's not bad, just not that accurate) measuring voltages.I really like the DP832! Really nice bit of kit... easy to program, very accurate and stable. Haven't tested whether it overshoots under various loads, but I love the supply.I haven't looked at the manual yet but I dislike that it resorts to 0V/0A upon startup - I wish it went back to whatever I had it set to last. I see a Preset button so I realize I can program it but it would be nice if it booted in the most recently used setting.Now I am just convincing myself I need a DM3068 for nice accurate temp measurements, and of course another to replace my Fluke

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2013, 03:10:35 am
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on August 07, 2013, 02:52:43 amHad a play with this - from my foggy old memory the output is disabled - I hope it is but you can set it to remember where you left the settingsC& P from the manualPower-on SettingSelect the instrument configuration (“Default” or “Last”) the instrument uses at power-on and the default is “Default”.Last: use the system configuration before the last power-off.Default: use the factory setting (except those parameters that are not affected by reset). For details, refer to Table 2-2.Press Utility System Power On to select the desired configuration type. This setting is stored in the non-volatile memory and will not be affected by reset.

author: Uup
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2013, 03:15:49 am
content: Quote from: mickpah on August 07, 2013, 03:10:35 amMore simply put...Press the Utility button, then press the System button. The left most soft button will be for the power-on setting. The initial setting is 'Default'. Press the button to change it to 'Last'.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 07, 2013, 03:44:13 am
content: The Internet.Helping lazy asses who are too lazy to read the manual since 1991.Thanks guys

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2013, 02:33:41 pm
content: QuoteThe instruction manual that came with the "Tool Time" video game for SNES, was a one page leaflet that simply read, "Real men don't need instructions!"

author: mountaindude
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2013, 05:37:24 am
content: Hos about connectivity on the DP832?USB and Ethernet are optional, or?If so, are the jacks still there (allowing for later software upgrade)?Edit: seems my question was already answered in post 102 (and others) of this thread - sorry...

author: jasonbrent
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2013, 05:16:00 am
content: Is the LCD on the 832 really limited to just a few colors? Or is it just software limited? I'm somewhat surprised there hasn't been an attempt at converting an 832 to an 832A in software/firmware yet.I *like* the looks of the 832(A) all things considered.I need a benchtop supply and the 832 is pretty enticing... but the monochrome would get annoying to me knowing a full color option exists (it'd eat at my inner geek forever).-jbl

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2013, 06:45:57 am
content: Q1: I might have missed it in this thread and haven't seen it elsewhere: does anyone know the sample rate on these scopes? The signalpath 6 part video that seemed to like the DP1116A and DP1208A indicated samping speed might have been a tad better - any chance these new models are any faster?Q2: Separate question, in the signalpath review it looked like rather than using rear remote sense the 1116A or the 1208A had the ability to do sensing from the front terminals and without any special twisted wiring - maybe that was a different type or purpose for sensing? Do these new models have this front terminal sense capabilty?

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 09, 2013, 06:46:24 am
content: Quote from: jasonbrent on August 09, 2013, 05:16:00 amI'm not sitting at my desk now looking at the display, but I am pretty sure it's just a different color backlight. Well, technically I guess "forelight" since it's probably just an inverted color display. It's only selectable from a few colors...red, blue, green and white, IIRC. Makes sense if they are using RGB LED's to backlight it.The DP832A appears to have a full color display.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2013, 07:14:39 am
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on August 09, 2013, 06:46:24 amYou would think someone in the Rigol marketing department would find a way to communicate the characteristics of the displays and how you "get more" as you move up the product line.

author: Zbig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2013, 09:28:48 am
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on August 09, 2013, 06:46:24 amIsn't there a setup screen which at one point shows you all the different UI colors to choose fromat onceas colored squares? I'm pretty sure I saw it on some photo. To me it looks like one more case ofSiglentRigol differentiating their product line by firmware (by driving the color LCD in monochrome mode in that case).

author: nack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2013, 03:35:44 pm
content: It's a color LCD. Firmware limited to a selection of a few color scheme's only.

author: Sparky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2013, 03:49:37 pm
content: Quote from: jasonbrent on August 09, 2013, 05:16:00 amQuote from: Corporate666 on August 09, 2013, 06:46:24 amQuote from: Zbig on August 09, 2013, 09:28:48 amQuote from: nack on August 09, 2013, 03:35:44 pmZbigandnackhave it right.If in doubt, golook at the pic in post #83(page 6)

author: etc6849
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2013, 07:16:22 pm
content: Anyone else also waiting for a back order unit from Tequipment.net?I ordered mine on 7/28, but it still hasn't shipped. I called once before and TE said 8/5 was the revised ship date, but that never happened. I called again and they stated their stock was off and they actually had a couple DP831A's listed as DP832A's in their system.Now the status is 8/30/2013. How reliable is TE? Should I just reorder from RigolNA? RigolNA.com says 7-9 weeks?!? I ordered all of my other stuff from TE and everything has always shipped next day (DS2072 and DG4062). Until now that is...

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 11, 2013, 11:27:58 pm
content: Quote from: etc6849 on August 11, 2013, 07:16:22 pmI think TE only knows what Rigol tells them, which isn't always correct... not sure it's TE's fault though.Having said that, I ordered my DS2072 directly from Rigol, who had it in stock while TE was waiting for a shipment. So it may very well be that your power supply is in stock with Rigol, even if not with TE. Rigol told me they don't really bother updating their website, so don't rely on the 7-9 weeks thing on their site.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 11, 2013, 11:34:36 pm
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on August 11, 2013, 11:27:58 pmIt's usually not. As a big provider they have many thousands of products to juggle.My 832 is supposed to be on the truck today.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2013, 12:35:15 am
content: QuoteSome items tequipment stocks in their own warehouses, and other items end up getting drop shipped directly from the manufacturer (aka Rigol). So if TE doesn't already have the product on their shelves, they won't bother getting Rigol to ship it to the tequipment warehouse to be re-shipped to the customer... tequipment will simply tell Rigol in China to send the product to the customer's address. In these cases, they really have no idea when the product will arrive

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2013, 11:14:29 pm
content: Hi, Does anyone know if the Rigol power supplies have an external (user interface driven) process for "calibrating" (ie, adjusting the display readouts for) voltage and current? The reason I ask is that the Korads have such a process. I'm not sure yet how well the process works but if a $100 Korad can support such a process perhaps the $400-$800 Rigols can do likewise? To be square on the Korads it's not really a full blown "calibration" process but with the Korad you can use a DMM or an electronic load to reference the voltage and current readings to another device. Anyone know if this is doable on the Rigols? Thanks, EF

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2013, 11:24:47 pm
content: Quote from: Electro Fan on August 13, 2013, 11:14:29 pmyes, you canpress Utility -> Test/Cal -> ManualCal , but you need to ask them for the password , according to the manual this is a simple request and they will supply it

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2013, 11:25:25 pm
content: Yes, the DP800-series at least can be calibrated in software by going to "Utility --> Test/Cal"

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2013, 06:53:26 am
content: Quote from: mickpah on August 13, 2013, 11:24:47 pmmicpah and olsenn, Thanks. The more I figure out what I think I'd like in a PS the more the 832 looks like it is it. Three questions still on the drawing board: 1) is it a little large (takes up a lot of bench space)?, 2) does it make sense to start with the 832 or just go all in for the 832A?, 3) can I live with that face/plate?(Maybe it will grow on me and I'll learn to think it's beautiful). (I don't get why they couldn't have left well enough alone and stuck with the DP1116A and DP1308A cosmetics.)

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 14, 2013, 07:09:01 am
content: Quote from: Electro Fan on August 14, 2013, 06:53:26 am1) Hard to quantify the dimensions... I guess they are listed on the Rigol site. I don't find it to be too large. It's bigger than my little crappy Mastech supply, but a lot smaller than my giant 2000W Agilent supply. My test equipment is up on a shelf like Dave's, and it doesn't overhang the shelf, at least.2) I had the 832A on order, and changed it to the 832. What feature of the A model would you want/need/use? If you get the hi-res option on the 832, the only difference is 1mv vs. 10mv OVP on the A model vs the A. Do you need 1mv OVP resolution? If you do, the 832A is the one to have. If you don't, I don't see why anyone would get the 832A - it's identical to the 832 in every other functional respect.3) I much prefer the new layout. It is unquestionably an improvement in functionality. Aesthetics, meh, to each their own - but there is no doubt it's more functional. It has the "all off" button, it has the dial softkey, and most importantly it has a rotary knob which I use every time I use the supply. The preset button and a clicky power switch are also superior in favor of the 831/832. I actually find the ring layout of the number keys to be better than the standard keypad layout on my PM2811... I just find it easier to adjust with the buttons, the OK, and the dial all in the same place.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2013, 07:43:14 am
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on August 14, 2013, 07:09:01 amOk, Corp - you are a good advocate for why the front panel is functional and why that should trump "looks". You are probably right - functionality over cosmetics if we must.Turning to the model trade-offs, the 832 packages the following features into options that would otherwise be standard on the 832A:Hi-Res - I kind of like the extra res, but it's more of a want than a needRS232/LAN - seems like you need this if you want to connect to a computer(I'm modifying this so as not to send anyone in the wrong direction; as olsenn points out below all you need is the USB connector.)On-line Monitor & Analysis - haven't figured out the use case(s) yet4 Channel Trigger In & Out - haven't figured out the use case(s) yetThe pricing looks like if you want 3 of the 4 you could have had the 4th for free; if you want 2 or less the 832 would be the better deal.(In lieu of the USB consideration, the crossover point changes further in favor of the 832 - the 832 is looking like a very good value.)One other item is the display. The 832A seems to provide full color vs. the 4 monochrome choices on the 832. Related to this: On the 832 it looks like the main display UI has 3 vertical panels, 1 for each channel. The 832A looks like the main display UI has the three triangular/diagonal slices with the circle overlap in the middle. I think I prefer the 3 vertical panels - can the 3 vertical panel look be invoked on the 832A or is that just for the 832?Also, what is the "critical mode (UR)"? The manual presents it but doesn't seem to define it. (Is that just the process of the unit toggling on it's own from CV to CC and vice versa, or something else?)PS, if Rigol is on their marketing game they will make some videos that present the virtues and use cases for the options and also show off the color display; we'll see how long it takes for the marketing department to do it's magic.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2013, 03:53:40 pm
content: QuoteNope. The DP832 still comes with USB connectivity which is all you'll likely need unless you have specific requirements to have it connected over the network.I'd recommend getting the DP832 (not the DP832A) and purchasing the Hi-Res add-on seperately

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2013, 05:58:45 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on August 14, 2013, 03:53:40 pmolsenn, very good catch - USB is all you need for PC coms; that might be a pivotal feature in deciding which way to go. Thx for point that out.

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2013, 01:59:57 pm
content: Hi EEblogger,I think I found a bug in the DP832. I have three of the DP832 that have the same problem. The problem appears in channel 1. With no load, if you set the voltage on channel 1 to 1 volts and then try to set the current to 9mA or less, the current display shows that 43ma is being delivered. I can then use the rotary dial to slowly increase the current limit from 1ma and finally at 10mA, the current display then does back to zero ampsIf you do the same to channel 2, no problem. You can set the current limit all the way down to 1 mA in channel 2. However channel 1, the current limit start acting up below 10mA.I have the Hi resolution option. I think it may be a firmware problem. Will be calling Rigol to let them know.Anybody that has the hi res option check their PS.RobertReposted this here so that information about the DP832 is kept together.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2013, 02:02:11 pm
content: I'm not at my bench right now, but out of curiosity, rbola, what does the datasheet say of the current accuracy at this range?

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2013, 02:18:30 pm
content: programablity 0.2% +10mAreadout 0.15% + 5mAMy readout is showing 45mA with not load when current limit is set below 10mA. Once I program it to 10ma or above, the readout goes back to 0 ARV

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2013, 02:21:45 pm
content: I wouldn't worry too much about it; it obviosly is just an incorrect reading on the display. If you're concearned, try measuring the current (with a multimeter) through a 1k resistor @ 1V and see that you get 1mA. I highly doubt it will overshoot. You may also measure the short circuit current with your DMM to ensure it goes to 10mA max. and not 43mA.I don't usually work with low voltages, but perhaps the uCurrent or similar set-up is needed for something like this? Is it only below 1V that this problem is seen?

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2013, 09:12:38 pm
content: Quote from: rbola35618 on August 15, 2013, 02:18:30 pmthis is a good thing, there should be a software update now, easier than a jtag dump

author: ivaylo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 07:22:54 am
content: QuoteSame here, under 10 mA it shows crap with or without load. Only the display is incorrect though, measured with a DMM it is within spec to what you program it to.But what is this nonsense about "email us for firmware", why can't I just download it from their site (and the PSUs aren't even in the list of what firmware you are asking for)?

author: Sparky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 07:51:14 am
content: Quote from: rbola35618 on August 15, 2013, 01:59:57 pmThanks for reporting the bug! I tested on my DP832 and I have the same result. I do not have the hi-res option.The bug is present for all voltages up to the maximum of 30V.

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 10:36:19 am
content: Just went hunting for firmware and found they have added two more models to the rangeDP811A Programmable DC Power Supplysingle channel,dual range with remote sense programmablehttp://www.rigol.com/prodserv/DP811A/andDP821A Programmable DC Power Supplyis a dual channel programmablehttp://www.rigol.com/prodserv/DP821A/both being "A" models seem to have all the options standard -

author: TJCornish
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 12:49:00 pm
content: Quote from: mickpah on August 16, 2013, 10:36:19 amDid you notice any specs? The pages you linked to seem to have been taken down.

author: Marc M.
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 01:20:09 pm
content: Quote from: TJCornish on August 16, 2013, 12:49:00 pmThe pages load fine here in Iowa (USA). The specs are there but they are in Chinese. I'm tempted to pick up one of the Rigol 800 series supplies but I've got so many high quality older supplies it's tough to justify the cost. But if/when the the Rigols get hacked, I'll probably drop the $400 and pick one up.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 01:23:21 pm
content: they load fine here also (Norway), and are in english, make sure that "international" is selected in the top right corner..datasheet attahced.

author: TJCornish
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 08:35:22 pm
content: Quote from: neslekkim on August 16, 2013, 01:23:21 pmThat was it, thanks. The information apparently hasn't been posted to the North American site yet.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2013, 11:10:42 pm
content: Just checking to see if any Rigol 832/832A owners might be up for running a test or two similar to what Ian did with his TTi Power Supply:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/comparing-two-power-supplies/Any bets on whether in terms of the speed and accuracy of regulation the Rigol will perform more like:A) the TTiB) The ExtechC) Something notably different?I know the Rigol has a bunch of features that the TTi doesn't, but how will the Rigol do on these tests?

author: jasonbrent
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 02:58:14 am
content: I keep staring at the DP832. I think it looks quite enticing for the price point... I'm wondering if there is any option in the 830 software for enabling the full color screen? I guess I can call rigolNA monday AM and see what the real upgrde options are for this....-jbl

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 03:48:52 am
content: Seriously, why does anyone give a shit about the screen? That isn't an important part of the functionality of the PSU.

author: jasonbrent
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 03:50:26 am
content: Quote from: olsenn on August 17, 2013, 03:48:52 amTo each their own.$724 for the A vs $~$400 that's software upgradable for the non A variant. As a consumer and hobbyist, I'd really like to end up with a -A variant, fully functional with my expenditure amortized some...-jbl

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 03:51:17 am
content: Seriously, why does anyone give a shit about the seats? They aren't an important part of the functionality of the car.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 08:41:51 am
content: Quote from: Electro Fan on August 16, 2013, 11:10:42 pmOk, after seeing Dave's video I'm done worrying about the looks of the unit; it might not make the Designer Hall of Fame but it's very usable. Sure it could be improved here and there and perhaps with firmware it might be. The only thing in the video that still leaves the jury out (at least in my case) are those turn on spikes - they could be worse, I suppose. What do people here think, the spikes are no big deal or something that could cause someone to look for a different PS? Thanks for any insight on this.- If you look at the TTi turn on curves the TTi seemed notably better, but maybe I'm missing something?https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/comparing-two-power-supplies/PS, the idea that someone would always disconnect their DUT(s) before turning on the PS isn't a real practical solution; if that was the SOP there wouldn't be much sense in having on/off output controls for each channel. Either the thing starts at or reasonably close to 0 and then comes up suitably gracefully or it doesn't, just sayin'. Maybe the answer is if your DUT can't withstand a quick spike maybe it isn't the right PS? Or maybe Dave's test unit got out of the factory without the proper QC? Bummer that this one issue lingers - it's the one characteristic that the lower end PS's seem to share; in most other respects the 832 looks like a very good product. Maybe it's just a matter of degrees and a "small" "sort of quick" spike is acceptable? Really looking foward to the experts here weighing in on this.

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 08:55:02 am
content: Quote from: c4757p on August 17, 2013, 03:51:17 amtotally correct,I bought one about 6 weeks ago - pulled it apart for a look and was impressed by the build quality - and now use it happily.I does what I need it to do and does it well. If I need the options later I'll add them as needed. Till then money is used on what I need now.Thats the difference between a 832 and and 832A for me anyway.For me there will never be a perfect product (of any kind) it comes down to what I can afford and what quirks I live with - or build one to my own specs , but who has time for that ? at least for a product with this level of sophisticationDoes the job for me at the right price, if it doesn't for you don't buy it simple really

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 17, 2013, 10:42:36 am
content: Quote from: Electro Fan on August 17, 2013, 08:41:51 amGenerally speaking in your $100K board is THAT critical to short power on spikes, which could easily be causes by inductance in the wiring of any direct PSU connection, then you would be using local regulation at the critical points. I was waxing a bit lyrical there in an ideal world.QuoteOften it comes down to the total energy in a given spike.

author: berk98
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 03:55:48 am
content: Silly question, but what direction does the fan blow on each of your guys' DP832(A) units? I just noticed that the fan on my DP832 blows inward from the back into the unit, whereas Dave's blows outward out of the unit towards the back. I ordered mine way back in March, but since I didn't receive it until June I don't think it was from another batch.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 04:06:05 am
content: BTW, I've been told Rigol are looking into the power on spike problem.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 04:20:39 am
content: Quote from: EEVblog on August 28, 2013, 04:06:05 amCoolThanks

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 04:29:09 am
content: Dave,Also tell them about the bug I found in channel 1. The current display show a current on 35mA with no load when the current limit is set to below 10mA.Robert

author: riconette
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 05:01:02 am
content: Quote from: EEVblog on August 28, 2013, 04:06:05 ami've just seen the teardown and im wondering if the output caps may cause the voltage regulation to overreact on switching the unit on.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 05:36:44 am
content: NEW ISSUE:I was just going to have a play around with the spike issue and noticed my unit reset itself every few minutes.Cause not 100% confirmed yet, BUT the main 5V logic regulator (U27 LM317) on the top board that powers all the digital processor stuff is running STINKING HOT. Like 110+ degC after a few minutes. I think the reg is going into thermal shutdown and that is the reason for the reset.Can anyone else confirm what temp the reg normally runs at?12V in, 5V out OK.I find it almost impossible to believe this is normal, but also hard to believe I did something in the teardown that is causes excess current draw.Yes, I have this on video, but would like some confirmation before I rush to upload and make a fool of myselfTop left corner here on the small heatsink.It should be possible to get through the vent hold on and angle on the right side (top rear vent) with a small thermocouple and probe the heaksink behind the two large capacitors.

author: ElectroIrradiator
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 06:20:15 am
content: Dave,Slightly OT but: If you still have the unit open, would you mind giving us the dimensions for the monster mains transformer, please? I'm curious about the potential VA rating, given its apparent size.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 06:26:26 am
content: Quote from: ElectroIrradiator on August 28, 2013, 06:20:15 am110mm dia x 105mm tall.It is marked 400VA on the sticker on the side.

author: ElectroIrradiator
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 06:43:08 am
content: Quote from: EEVblog on August 28, 2013, 06:26:26 amNice, thanks. That gives it a potential VA rating of above 500W, judged solely by its volume. The difference can probably be explained by its slightly odd shape, compared to a standard toroid, plus the large-ish number of secondaries.

author: nack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 08:59:48 am
content: I've bend the thermocouple in a small 3cm radius and angled it in just after the two caps. After 10-15 minutes I probed the heatsink and measured up to 96 degC. A little too hot? No load connected, and haven't got it to reset itself either?!

author: sha256
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 09:05:20 am
content: I got about 74C after about five minutes. The probe was contacting the top edge of the heatsink.

author: ElectroIrradiator
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 09:43:23 am
content: The LM317 has a remarkably high Rth,JCat 17oK/W, so how hot is too hot depends highly on the actual device dissipation.

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 11:27:28 am
content: Quote from: ElectroIrradiator on August 28, 2013, 09:43:23 amData sheets from 3 different manufacturers say 4, 5, and 5, C/W for the LM317 in TO220.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 11:32:14 am
content: Thanks for the confirmation.IMO this is just way too high, and bad design oversight. There wouldn't be any margin in this at all. And at that temp right next to the filter caps is just begging for premature failure.If anyone else can get some heatsink contact data as well that would be great.

author: ElectroIrradiator
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 11:46:24 am
content: Quote from: Rufus on August 28, 2013, 11:27:28 amTI says17 K/W for TO-220, Linear says 4 K/W typical, but no maximum for 'T' package for standard chips (not LM317A). Haven't checked any other brands.

author: gilbjd
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 12:08:28 pm
content: I'm getting up to 104 degrees Celsius on the heatsink Dave. The unit has been powered up for an hour or so with no load. Mine has a lot of adhesive between the two capacitors. I can't actually see the heatsink so I have to bend the thermocouple wire a bit and slide it into position to make contact.

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 12:08:53 pm
content: Quote from: ElectroIrradiator on August 28, 2013, 11:46:24 amThat data sheet also says 19 C/W for JA and 3 C/W for JP. The JC value being resistance to the plastic of the case, JP to the metal tab, and JA the whole case to ambient is the only interpretation that makes sense.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 12:15:27 pm
content: Quote from: gilbjd on August 28, 2013, 12:08:28 pmWell, that's just ridiculous now. This is a massive design oversight

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 12:36:47 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on August 28, 2013, 12:15:27 pmAssuming this carries across all units, it's more than ridiculous. More like a downright embarrassment to Rigol's PS design team, and cause for a complete recall of all units, IMO.

author: ElectroIrradiator
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 12:47:51 pm
content: Quote from: Rufus on August 28, 2013, 12:08:53 pmYes, you are probably right, considering the second footnote. However Rth,JCis usually taken to mean between the die and the heat sink contact surface, so they ought to rework that table a bit.

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 12:57:48 pm
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on August 28, 2013, 12:36:47 pmThey will fix it in software by turning up the fan speed

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 01:05:31 pm
content: Why would this happen with no load? Or is it just a internal digital proccessor's power that overheats?

author: wizzy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 01:08:01 pm
content: Was about to purchase one today... Is there room for a larger Heatsink on it?

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 01:16:16 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on August 28, 2013, 01:05:31 pmIt has nothing to do with the load, it is just powering the digital control circuitry.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 01:25:37 pm
content: Quote from: wizzy on August 28, 2013, 01:08:01 pmTechnically, yes. But with the TO-220 freestanding like that (from memory I think the HS is not attached to the PCB), it would not be be advised.It's tempting to mount it on the diode bridge heatsink and hand wire it back in. But then you have isolation insulation issues.

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 01:52:19 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on August 28, 2013, 11:32:14 amHonestly I'm quite disappointed by this stupid design. Even a noob knows that caps hate high temperatures. Why the hell they don't take it in consideration?

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 01:55:55 pm
content: Quote from: wizzy on August 28, 2013, 01:08:01 pmLike Dave said, you'd have to isolate it, which is not undoable. Point is though you shouldn't have to, and if they missed something this simple, what else did they dick up?

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 02:04:20 pm
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on August 28, 2013, 01:55:55 pmYou're right...

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 02:14:12 pm
content: Quote from: mcinque on August 28, 2013, 01:52:19 pmIt was deemed an acceptable risk, probably. I've seen hot caps last a very long time, and I've seen hot caps last a mere week. Presumably they've done some testing and determined that they'll last beyond the warranty period.I'm still an electronics newbie, but it seems that you could add a bit of thermal insulation between the heat source and the heat sensitive components, giving the heat sensitive components a longer life. Am I wrong on that?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 02:16:59 pm
content: Quote from: Rigby on August 28, 2013, 02:14:12 pmMaybe some Aerogel

author: ElectroIrradiator
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 02:40:07 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on August 28, 2013, 02:16:59 pmWould protect the caps, but further heat up the LM317 due to the reduced air flow.

author: sha256
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 04:06:38 pm
content: After about an hour I'm getting 100C. I'm thinking it's epoxy (to solve Dave's unattached heatsink concern) and bigger heatsink time (to solve some dumb ass mistake).

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 04:39:06 pm
content: Quote from: ElectroIrradiator on August 28, 2013, 02:40:07 pmPerhaps some simple ducting or a fan with higher CFM would keep things cool enough.(My naivete took me in a lot of places that make no sense before I came to that conclusion. Maybe that one makes no sense, either, but it makes more sense than my peltier idea by a wide margin.)

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 05:58:05 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on August 28, 2013, 01:16:16 pmSo the overheated LM317 is going to blow up in two years. Then thedigital control circuitrywill be destroyed by too high voltage (maybe 12V?).Well, i don't think the Rigol engineers are stupid. They want me to buy a new Rigol PSU every two years.Only Tektronix stuff will last for decades, (but their scopes are obsolete and not being innovated.)

author: Fsck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 06:08:10 pm
content: from the picture of the hand + thermocouple against the side of the case, it looks like it might be possible for you to punch a large hole in the side of the case and mount a 40-60mm fan.or you could just attach a 12cm fan to the outside without any physical alterations or something.

author: Mr Simpleton
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 06:25:25 pm
content: Why not measure the voltage drop over the LM317 and then current... put in a power resistor in series to reduce disipated power from the LM317, or why not squeeze in a bigger heat sink?Ultimate solution would be finding a lower voltage source, from within the 832, that could drive the digital board, and have the LM317 run cooler.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 06:48:16 pm
content: If I got one then a bigger heatsink along with a nice toasy power resistor would be good there. Lower temp will help for sure. Most likely the spec called for a larger heatsink but it was cost cutted to a shorter unit in the same extrusion, or the testing labs were all running from 210VAC due to large industrial loads in the district.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 06:50:04 pm
content: I have come a little further. Here the JTAG pinout. I have already copied a part of the RAM. Exactly the same ECC parameters as the DS series! Can someone please send me a working serial / license combination? I'll keep it secret.

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 09:32:18 pm
content: Quote from: Hydrawerk on August 28, 2013, 05:58:05 pmMaybe they are not stupid, ore maybe they have understimated the power of the community that will make know the issue to everyone that it's really interested in their products engineering.Imho, to make a unit fail after X years, it's much better to hide some catastrophic setting inside the firmware (like many inkjet printer manufacturers does) instead to place a label on the pcb that say "3 years self-destruct timer here".@Dave, have you informed Rigol of this brillant "heatsink caps killer" solution?

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 09:46:22 pm
content: If this regulator is just powering the digital electronics side of things, and it's a TO-220 package mounted to a heat sink, how in the hell is it getting that hot?!?A linear regulator taking in 12V and putting out 5V in a TO-220 package with a heat sink and getting the heat sink to 100C? Jeebuz... it must be delivering, what, a couple of amps?Why would the power draw on the digital electronics be that high? Is there power leaking somewhere?I am going to open my 832 and pull out the thermal camera and see what there is to see

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 10:04:49 pm
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on August 28, 2013, 09:46:22 pmIf we go back to the basics, we know that a linear regulator works by taking off the extra voltage as heat. The voltage drop there is 7v, and with a maximum current of 3A, that is 21W of heat being dissipated there, which is a lot. And also, I think the engineers probably just calculated the caps to be fine during the warranty period, and let it pass.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 10:08:11 pm
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on August 28, 2013, 09:46:22 pmAs we all anxiously wait, occasionally pressing F5.

author: ElectroIrradiator
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 10:21:45 pm
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on August 28, 2013, 09:46:22 pmThere is that large'ish Freescale i.Mx CPU with SDRAM and - presumably - flash, plus the other device on the top board. Then there is the LCD panel and associated drivers, so several hundred mA at full click isn't out of the question IMO. Is there a 12V rail I didn't notice anywhere, since you mention 12V?If not, then Rigol may feed the LM317 from an unregulated input, and ask 3.3V from it. That could easily put the power dissipated up to several watts, in which case the small heat sink could explain the high temperatures you and others are reporting.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 10:29:05 pm
content: Quote from: echen1024 on August 28, 2013, 10:04:49 pmI understand how the dissipation is calculated, but if it is 3A... for the digital side of things? That is a lot!

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 10:33:11 pm
content: Quote from: ElectroIrradiator on August 28, 2013, 10:21:45 pmI thought I read 12V previously in the thread (maybe in Dave's measurements?) I have not verified if there is a 12V rail or if the input to that regulator is unregulated. I think he measured 12V in and 5V out.However, you say "several hundred mA" which I think is probably possible, but even that I would think is high... although I don't know what sort of power the i.Mx and SDRAM draw. Anyone know?I just looked things over with my thermal camera, and nothing seems to be particularly hot other than this regulator. But that raises an interesting question... if the regulator is providing 3A (and dissipating 21W which is why it's getting so hot), it also means that the regulator is outputting 15W of power and that power is not used 100% efficiently, so where is it all going? I didn't notice any particular other hot spots (but I wasn't really looking).I'm DLing the pics from the thermal camera now, will post in a bit.

author: ElectroIrradiator
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 10:48:41 pm
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on August 28, 2013, 10:33:11 pmA small heat sink as used on the LM317 will have a thermal resistance of around 25 K/W, more or less, so just a few watts will easily push the temperature to 100oC or higher, particularly if the airflow is not as effective as intended. So for instance 12V to 3.3V at 200mA, and you are nearly there. Even a lowly LPC1769 Cortex-M3 MCU will use up to about 70mA at 100MHz, just by its lonesome. Several hundred mA for all those parts is very likely IMO.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 10:50:07 pm
content: Unfortunately I can't find the memory card for my thermal camera, so I just took some pictures of the camera screen with my cell phone. Results are.... alarming.I measured the heat sink reaching up to 270 degrees F which is over 130C. I don't know what error may be imposed due to the emissivity of the heat sink, but there is no doubt it is getting stinking hot, as Dave says.I should have taken a pic of how I had the parts laid out, but the 832 is lying on it's side with the transformer towards the front/left in the pics... the top board is still connected and lying flat on the desk at a 90-degree angle to the main unit.Pic 1 is the top board itself... the regulator in the top right corner.Pic 2 is a close-up of the regulator just some seconds after I started up the unit.Pic 3 is the main portion of the unit (you can see how I had them lying). The regulator is not in the TIC field of view in this picPic 4 is looking into the top of the main case with the top board lying on the desk (regulator is in lower left corner of TIC FOV) - the round disc to the left of the crosshair is the metal plate on top of the toroidPic 5 is a top view of the board again regulator in the top right corner so you can see other hot spotsPic 6 is a close-up of the regulator itself... 262 degrees (128C!)

author: ElectroIrradiator
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 11:06:35 pm
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on August 28, 2013, 10:50:07 pmYikes!

author: Fsck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 11:15:01 pm
content: you could cook some small pieces of meat on that regulator, like a grill.

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 11:42:23 pm
content: Quote from: Fsck on August 28, 2013, 11:15:01 pmYep, and doing so would actually cool it somewhat.That device needs a heatsink badly, and the whole unit needs a higher CFM fan. If Rigol want my business they should fix this. I was all ready to buy one.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2013, 11:52:56 pm
content: Quote from: Rigby on August 28, 2013, 11:42:23 pmIt's hard to make it out, but in the pic above with the temp showing 230F, you can see the caps off to the side. In the pic showing 262F, the caps have heated up a lot as well. So those caps are definitely being slowly cooked by that hot regulator. I really do not like that at all.I would very much like to hear Rigol's response on this, but I will be sorely disappointed if (as I expect) they say it's within spec and nothing they can/will do about it. I am sure many others in addition to myself will not just put up with a regulator running that hot, so I suppose it comes down to whether Rigol will do something about it or the owners will have to.I don't want to send it back, if they just provided a much more appropriate heat sink, I would be happy to install it myself.

author: Harvs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 01:41:54 am
content: What's the ambient temperature while you're doing all these measurements?From what's in the datasheet, it should be happy working (albeit at reduced output power) up to 55 degrees C. So if these measurements are being done at comfortable room temp, you can whack another 20-30 degrees on top of that.

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 01:58:02 am
content: Just cut a hole in the top, put a 200mm fan with a grille, and BAM! Instant Cooling!

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 02:13:40 am
content: Quote from: Harvs on August 29, 2013, 01:41:54 amIf you mean my measurements, it was in the air conditioned shop which would be about 74F or so.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 02:31:56 am
content: Probably no connection whatsoever - I'm guessing zero connection, but just in case anyone has any ideas - any possible connection between the heating and the turnon spike (other than maybe some more testing and QC might have been good for the product in general)?

author: Fsck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 02:46:58 am
content: from the location and size of it, I don't think a better fan would help. it's really in a terrible spot as it's surroundings really don't complement it.anyone consider diying their own heatsink? standard package means it should be easy, and you'd be able to do funky things like heatpipes to transfer the heat away.the electrolytics will still curse your family for a thousand generations though.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 02:52:00 am
content: Quote from: Fsck on August 29, 2013, 02:46:58 amI'm thinking either DIY heatsink or remotely locating the actual TO220 itself. In the former case, I'd want the temperature to get to more like the <150F range which would be much easier on the caps. If remote mounting the TO220, I'd probably machine a custom "frame" in aluminum that would mount to other point on the chassis (insulated from, though) and allowed mounting some standard heat-sink packages to it.Hoping Rigol will have something to say about it first - but I tend to doubt it. The real fix is recall/redesign/rework but no way are they doing that based on a bunch of tech-nerds whinging that something isn't as good as it could/should be (but hasn't broken.... yet).You have to imagine Rigol does thermal testing as part of their R&D though. You have to wonder who the guy is that saw this part running at 130C in 74F ambient temps and said "looks good! Ship it!"

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 03:02:03 am
content: So how many hours running straight will it endure before bursting in flames? What a crappy termal design..In the other topic(the teardown), I also asked about the fact of using only one pass element, even with the big heatsink it must get really hot, but that is just too hot to be a reliable PSU..

author: kizzap
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 03:08:17 am
content: incredibly bad engineering on that one I have to admit.People say that "hacking" these units, and other Rigol units is bad, however it is because people hack these units that things like this are brought up. Free technical consulting, albeit at the wrong end of the product line.-kizzap

author: riconette
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 05:33:06 am
content: yeah… so i ordered one unit yesterday, right after the teardown and just before dave posted the overheating problem. tough luck i'd say.now what to do? i think i'll let the redistributor know about this problem (with a link to this thread) and keep the unit when it arrives. here in germany we have quite good consumer-laws and if a product contains an build-in error its usually no problem to complain and reject the product. of course i hope the thing wont blow in my face when (not "if"!) it fails or broils my $100k board

author: rf-loop
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 06:23:49 am
content: In this "High-End" PSU.Is it rust in this picture?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 06:24:59 am
content: Quote from: rf-loop on August 29, 2013, 06:23:49 amYour personal crusade to defend the honour of productsyou sellis rather tiresome.

author: jancumps
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 07:51:01 am
content: In the driver's manual of my 1989 Peugeot 205 they tackled the issue by mentioning that:Quote

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 12:58:06 pm
content: QuoteThey will certainly fix this issue in future board revisions; however, if you've already purchased one, good luck getting them to do a trade.

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 02:16:23 pm
content: ISSUE HAS BEEN REPORTEDI've talked with my local representative after sending him the description of the issue, all the photos and the flir images: he have called bejing and told me that in Rigol this issue is knownand has been corrected in the last revision (he don't know exactly how).Rigol says that this is due to a defective batch of the linear regulator, not to a bad engineeringbut he suggest to wait for the next week, when he will have a meeting with a Rigol Engineer, because the Chinglish language spoken by the phone operator in Beijing was not easy to understand.He will make us know about any news regarding the issue.He has also offered to ship to me freely the components to solve the issue as soon they are available and that at the moment Rigol does not have planned any official press announcement about this problem.Let's wait and see.

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 04:44:31 pm
content: Quote from: mcinque on August 29, 2013, 02:16:23 pmA faulty batch of LM317s that work but get steaming hot? Don't see how that is possible. Maybe Dave's investigation will shed some light on the issue.

author: Fsck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 04:47:15 pm
content: Quote from: Rufus on August 29, 2013, 04:44:31 pmdissect it! the heat capacity of the encapsulating material could be painfully low, heating up insanely for very little energy. etc. etc.tons of possibilities, only an autopsy will tell.

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 04:55:13 pm
content: Quote from: Rufus on August 29, 2013, 04:44:31 pmThat it's their reply, possibly not the true.Quote from: Rufus on August 29, 2013, 04:44:31 pmI trust in him.Or in someone that will break the warranty label, desolder that regulator and install a brand new one to see if something changes.

author: ElectroIrradiator
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 05:16:40 pm
content: If a faulty LM317 is able to maintain the specified output voltage, like 3.3 or 5V, then I cannot see how it is able to overheat. The power dissipated is (Vin-Vout)*Iload, and with Voutat its rated value, the remaining parameters are fixed beyond the control of the LM317.The IC cannot even dump a fault current through the regulator pin, as that has a high resistance to ground in your typical LM317 schematic.If the IC die is improperly attached to the heat sink tab, then the actual heat sink wouldn't show an elevated temperature, as we have seen demonstrated.So if the load survives, what fault can physically happen in a LM317, which causes it to overheat? Oscillations? Where does the power go?----Edit: Silly typo in formula corrected.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 05:40:34 pm
content: Does a LM317 ever do anything that could contribute to/allow/enable a turn-on spike?

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 06:20:37 pm
content: Quote from: ElectroIrradiator on August 29, 2013, 05:16:40 pmI think most of us would probably agree that blaming this issue on a bad batch of LM317's is a diversion... but... if that is indeed the company position on the matter, then it would seem they are accepting that these units contain faulty parts and would need fixed. I can see both sides in this... impatient owners will say Rigol should send a new PSU in advance with a return label for the old one, but that is not realistic. On the other hand, I'd rather not have to send mine to Rigol and wait (weeks?) for them to fix it. I use this thing often.If a self-repair kit is made available, that would be fair, but I can see Rigol not wanting people soldering around inside their PSU's. I also don't think a simple regulator change can solve this. It's a linear regulator so dissipation is outside it's control. Maybe something else on the board is drawing a lot more power than it should? I've made those mistakes before... like driving an array of transistors with 330 ohm base resistors instead of 3.3k resistors... leading to 10x more current draw than necessary. But whatever the issue is, I just hope a reasonable solution can be found.

author: ElectroIrradiator
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 06:53:36 pm
content: This may sound kind of backwards, but somehow I would prefer if there was a simple external explanation for the problem. A bad batch of components causing problems in the field isn't unheard of, and is sort of excusable if true. Almost any other explanation I can immediately think of, ought to have been caught during design verification/prototype testing: High load current (not entering sleep in CPU during idle?), inadequate heat sink size, wrong component values or inadequate/improper air flow, just to mention a few possibilities.Think I will wait for Dave's video, and see what he has discovered, before speculating any further.

author: TerminalJack505
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 07:24:54 pm
content: Could Rigol have got hold of counterfeit LM317s? Are people even counterfeiting LM317s? I don't know that it would be worthwhile, personally. I've heard of high-margin parts such as power amplifiers being counterfeited. People decap them and the die is really puny as compared to the genuine part.Whatever the problem, I'm Glad to hear they've fixed in in the latest revisions. It's obviously a fairly critical problem since Dave's unit was rebooting itself because of it.

author: Mr Simpleton
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 07:35:57 pm
content: It's not rocket scienceSimple LM317 linear regulator running hot!It comes down to voltage drop and current consumpton. Or a parasitic oscillation which increases the current.So should be pretty simple to measure the voltage drop, and maybe use a hacked DSO2072 to see if there is an oscillaton. My bet is that they somehow have connected the input of the LM317 to the wrong rail, having too large voltage dropStill this holds me off buying this until it has been resolved...

author: riconette
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 07:47:28 pm
content: Quote from: TerminalJack505 on August 29, 2013, 07:24:54 pmquestion is: how to identify "later versions"? is the unit i'll get delivered in a few days a "later version"? do i have to open it to actually see if there is a difference, including voiding my warranty?and what about dave and all the others definately having an "old version"?

author: marshallh
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 07:57:47 pm
content: Both ON and ST are making 78xx parts with new cut down TO220 packages. The metal tab is very thin and shorter. They did this to the same part number and I know ST offers the old leadframe as a new part no. So if you want to keep using the same part, you need to change your BOM

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 08:36:59 pm
content: Quote from: riconette on August 29, 2013, 07:47:28 pmI think that we don't know how at the moment. Of course we'll be able to identify the defective units just by serial numbers, but not until Rigol publicly admits the issue and list the serial numbers ranges affected.I think that next thursday, after the meeting with the Rigol's engineer, my local representative should give me a better explaination. And I hope a smart solution.The fable of a defective component sounds really strange also to me, it's an evident bad pcb and heatsink design, but... we should admit that Rigol CAN effectively do a good engineering (just look at other Rigol'ls teardown videos); an oversight like that is so stupid that I cannot (or I won't) believe it's a faulty design.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 09:05:00 pm
content: Quote from: Mr Simpleton on August 29, 2013, 07:35:57 pmBottom line. The LM317 is dissipating about 5W at 240V (will change with line voltage of course). It is dropping out of regulation when it overheats.It is almost certainly running above the recommended max die temp, even with the airflow.

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 09:12:27 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on August 29, 2013, 09:05:00 pmEven if they recall/rework what amajor pain in the arse.time & cost of packaging shipping alone to get it back to them is enough to make me rethink any future Rigols purchases. I was in the market for a function gen, used Agilent is looking better than new Rigol nowAND I got rid of the box as I have no room to store. Feeling burnt here.

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 10:01:28 pm
content: Quote from: mickpah on August 29, 2013, 09:12:27 pmYou read my mind. The right thing they should do is recall al the defective units, giving a new unit to the customer while taking back the defective ones. A fairytale.Quote from: mickpah on August 29, 2013, 09:12:27 pmThe funny thing is that many Agilent's devices are manufactured by Rigol...However, they are NOT idiots at PCB design. All the Rigol's spectrum analyzers and DSO on the market are well engineered. The point is that the project of 832 PSUs seems to have been done hastily.

author: mickpah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 10:06:11 pm
content: Quote from: mcinque on August 29, 2013, 10:01:28 pmand yet the all the board are marked rev 2.0 !! thank goodness they didn't ship rev 1 then.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 10:23:25 pm
content: Quote from: mcinque on August 29, 2013, 10:01:28 pmThe 1000 series scope is, but apart from that I have not heard of any other Rigol OEM Agilent gear?

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 10:30:34 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on August 29, 2013, 10:23:25 pmMost of Agilent equipment is not OEM'd. Also, try a new LM317. I seriously think this is just Rigol PR speakto stall for time, while they can think of the actual issue, and think of a way to admit it. You might want to investigate the output oscillations of the LM317, and try putting it away from the electrolytics.

author: Mr Simpleton
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 10:37:18 pm
content: So it seems the heat sink is a bit to small and/or the LM317 attached to heat sink is not properly done!Maybe operating the PS at 240 causes the unstabilized input to be a bit too much. Not sure but China should have 220 and 230/240 in Austraila?Still not enough safety margin. Bigger heat sink should take care of any problem.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 10:47:39 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on August 29, 2013, 09:05:00 pmDoes toggling the unit on and off give it a chance to cool down with each toggle or does on/off toggling increase the heat? (Seems somewhat unlikely the two are connected but just curious to see if there is any potential relationship between the heat issue and the turn-on spike issue.)

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 10:06:21 am
content: Quote from: mojo-chan on August 30, 2013, 08:09:56 amAs far as I know, Rigol have not claimed anything?They have simply admitted the problem exists and they have a hardware solution for it with a bigger heatsink.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 03:33:40 pm
content: I wonder hor Rigol would compete with this Owon ODP3032. It has also 195W.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 03:36:30 pm
content: Quote from: Hydrawerk on August 30, 2013, 03:33:40 pmAt least they didn't arrange the buttons in a stupid ass circle.

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 09:24:28 pm
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on August 30, 2013, 03:36:30 pmMeh, everyone bags on the circle. It lets you enter your desired value directly, which is something that a LOT of power supplies don't have. As long as they're not scattered randomly around the faceplate I won't complain too much.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 09:29:36 pm
content: The circle is retarded, this isn't art, it's test equipment and there has been a standard layout for eons.How would you like it if somebody rearranged your keyboard layout, comparison is no different.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 09:31:36 pm
content: I can type 100 words per minute on my keyboard, and regularly do. I change my power supply set points about three or four times a day on average. Frankly, I don't give a damn how the buttons are arranged as long as I can find them.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 09:35:59 pm
content: Quote from: c4757p on August 30, 2013, 09:31:36 pmGranted there are only ten buttons, not that hard to find. Still, there is absolutely no reason to break from the norm, like I said, it's retarded, why be different just to be different.

author: Tepe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 09:42:19 pm
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on August 30, 2013, 09:29:36 pmThis standard:1234567890Or this one:7894561230?Quote from: dr.diesel on August 30, 2013, 09:29:36 pmSee above.

author: Sparky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 09:54:14 pm
content: Hi folks,I don't think I've seen any temperature measurements from those running from 110VAC mains so I decided to check it out. I have a DP832 with serial number beginning DP8C1511. My unit has the tiny heatsink right up against the capacitors, so it is obviously before Rigol's update to fix the problem. I used a Fluke 289 with thermocouple for the temperature measurements.I'm in California and ambient temperature is 28.0 degC in my lab (read: apartment!). I've had the DP832 on with all channels active (no load however) for > 45mins and the TO220 heatsink is at 78.8 degC. I have the cover off the unit so cooling is compromised a little.I have been using the DP832 frequently over the past month and have left it on for several hours at a time. I have not observed the reset behavior yet. We will see how it handles over time!Cheers folks!

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 11:03:56 pm
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on August 30, 2013, 09:29:36 pmThese circles are beautifull

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2013, 11:13:01 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on August 30, 2013, 11:03:56 pmI love analog equipment, couldn't agree more!

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2013, 01:23:08 am
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on August 30, 2013, 09:35:59 pmJudging solely from the size of the unit and assuming a few design requirements (lcd size, jog shuttle, direct entry, and individual channel on/off controls) it seems pretty clear why they went with a circular layout.Is it ideal? Absolutely not. Is it usable? F yeah, it's usable.Don't get hung up on little things. You'll get anger fatigue pretty quickly. "Let that which does not matter truly slide."

author: MrRedHat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 31, 2013, 02:03:51 am
content: Quote from: Sparky on August 30, 2013, 09:54:14 pmI’m in Wisconsin with 110VAC.I have a DP832A. I didn’t open mine up (don't want to void warranty), but I stuck my probe inside best I could.I'm using a Fluke 289 probe. The Ambient temperature is 20.6 degC and after > 20 minutes the TO220 heatsink is at 70.2 degC.Looks like we're getting almost the same exact temperature.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 31, 2013, 02:33:56 am
content: I am in the USA too w/110VAC and I posted the FLIR images in the other thread showing it was 263F. I think if people are measuring 70-80C, it's likely just not good contact with the heat sink (or, some folks have a Rev3 PCB in theirs?).

author: MrRedHat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 31, 2013, 02:45:10 am
content: I may not be making good contact. I don’t want to open mine to find out. I thought it was interesting that my measurements were almost the same as Sparky’s, but he has his cover off.My DP832A came the first week of August. I wish there was a way to see inside if it’s a Rev3 PCB or not.

author: riconette
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2013, 03:13:32 am
content: Quote from: Rigby on August 31, 2013, 01:23:08 ammaybe its a bit like designing water taps (again and again, every year)… "here: ten numerical keys, one comma, a dial and four directional arrows… make it fresh, something NEW".

author: Sparky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2013, 03:34:06 am
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on August 31, 2013, 02:33:56 amQuote from: MrRedHat on August 31, 2013, 02:45:10 amThanks for follow-up guys! I couldn't make out exactly where the heatsink was and didn't want to risk poking around in there with it on, so off the cover came. I was careful with the sticker --- it's still intact!I got my unit mid-July, and the capacitor + heatsink arrangement looks just like in Dave's video, which I think is Rev2. If you know what you are looking for in Rev 3 (see pic in Dave's posthere), I think you'll be able to make out the new capacitor and heatsink layout through the case vent holes.Interestingly, the above post of Dave's has it that Rigol measured 76degC in 28degC ambient with the Rev3 board, which is almost exactly whatMrRedHatand myself have been measuring! Granted, I was touching the side of the heatsink and not the tab of the LM317, but I made sure to have good contact with the heatsink and monitored the temperature for a few minutes until it stabilized. We don't know how Rigol did their temperature measurements.I'll repeat my tests this weekend, with the cover back on and see what I get.Corporate666: do you have a thermocouple to compare against your FLIR images?Are there any other guys running on 110VAC that can take some temperature measurements for comparison?Sparky

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 31, 2013, 05:43:52 am
content: Quote from: Sparky on August 31, 2013, 03:34:06 amI do, but to be honest I think I am going to just wait to see what Rigol says... not that I am refusing to help the cause furtherBut the way I have the DP832 mounted makes it a royal PITA to remove it from my rack and get it alone on the bench... plus I would be a bit nervous about poking around with the thermocouple as wellI am no pro at thermals, but I believe I have always read that to get a good reading, the thermocouple should be well attached (welded or with thermal epoxy) to the sink? My thermocouple is a ball on the end, and I know when I use it for PCB thermal testing, I get drastically different results just holding it against something and using a clamp to really hold it in place with some thermal epoxy on it too.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2013, 05:48:40 pm
content: Please, Dave, what PSU doyouprefer? Rigol DP832or Atten PPS3205T-3Sor maybe Owon ODP3032??https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-rigol-dc-psu%27s/?action=dlattach;attach=59202;imageThe Atten PPS3205T-3S has a weird user interface, but probably it has no serious hardware bugs as the Rigol DP832 does.

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2013, 06:48:55 pm
content: Quote from: Sparky on August 31, 2013, 03:34:06 amIt's not like Atten is of top-notch quality either. *cough* 858D Hot air rework *cough*

author: Sparky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2013, 07:12:18 pm
content: Quote from: echen1024 on September 01, 2013, 06:48:55 pmUmmm, I didn't say anything about Atten... I don't get why you quoted what I said?

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2013, 11:38:50 pm
content: Quote from: Sparky on September 01, 2013, 07:12:18 pmOops. Sorry. I was pointing at what Hydrawerk said. Lol

author: rbola35618
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2013, 01:11:33 am
content: I have both units. I still like the Rigol. The Atten has a bug where the read out freezes and to reset the display, you have to turn off the Atten and re-start it. Also, the quality built on my Atten was very bad. It looked like the smaller board that had SMT resistor were hand soldered and the solder did not look very good.Despite the Rigol's problems, I am sure that Rigol will fix the problems and honor its three year warranty.Robert

author: JohannP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2013, 02:58:58 pm
content: I have put my order for a DP832A on hold with TEquipment due to the problems reported by Dave and the blog. Dawn from TEquipment say that Rigol is aware of the problem and they are working on a fix currently if is not fixed already.Here is mail from TEquipment regarding the problem of the DP832 PSU.Quote:Chat Transcript09:59:56 AM [Johann Prinsloo] Dawn are u online?10:00:14 AM [Dawn M]Hello! Thank you for contacting TEquipment.NET today.10:00:38 AM [Dawn M] Hello Johann. It is nice to hear from you again. How may we help you?10:00:57 AM [Johann Prinsloo] Dawn, Johann Prinsloo here. Have you received my mail from yesterday?10:01:48 AM [Dawn M] I do not see it in my inbox. May I have the email address you sent the message from so I can search for it?10:02:47 AM [Johann Prinsloo] I have send it via "Order Inquiry" from my order status page icw order E15??10:02:52 AM [Dawn M] Our offices were closed yesterday due to the Labor Day Holiday.10:03:46 AM [Dawn M] I have the email Johann.10:04:57 AM [Dawn M] We can certainly put the order on hold for you. We have been made aware of the problem and are waiting for an official word from Rigol on the issue and solution.10:04:58 AM [Johann Prinsloo] Do you perhaps know if Rigol is already working on a fix?10:05:17 AM [Dawn M] Yes, as far as we know, it may have already been fixed.10:05:38 AM [Dawn M] As soon as we have an official word from Rigol, we will be in contact with you.10:06:25 AM [Johann Prinsloo] Dawn that sound good. I am looking forward to you mail and delivery of this order than.10:08:06 AM [Dawn M] Thank you for your patience Johann.10:10:09 AM [Johann Prinsloo] Thank you till laterUnquote.Lets wait and see what Rigol is doing icw this known problem.Best regardsJohann

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2013, 03:43:55 pm
content: Does 800mA for the display seem excessivce to anyone else? It's not even that well backlit.If the current cannot be reduced, and another tap on the transformer can't be used to create the 5V (instead of stepping down from 12V), then the only thing I can see Rigol doing is using a bigger heatsync, and possibly switching to a different regulator that can handle greater dye temperatures for extended periods of time. Of course they're also going to want to move those electrolytics out of the way as well.

author: cybernet
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2013, 01:18:13 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/sniffing-the-rigol's-internal-i2c-bus/msg287042/#msg287042no license key for the fan ;(

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 05, 2013, 08:39:10 pm
content: The password for the DP832 "ManualCal" menu is "2012".

author: clivew
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2013, 10:33:19 pm
content: Quote from: olsenn on August 13, 2013, 11:25:25 pmDoes anyone know how to use the manual test/cal screens?I have 9.80v showing on the main ch1 output, when the voltage is set to 10v. The outuput IS 10v!Thanks,Clive

author: Dave Turner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2013, 10:12:21 pm
content: I'll agree that at first glance the D832 controls looks 'kin odd and trying to set values with the recessed knob is awkward. However I've been using mine now for a month and have discovered that it is surprisingly easy to use. Consider the old style 'telephone dial' as coarse and the knob as fine, it strangely works well for me at least.

author: clivew
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2013, 03:28:07 pm
content: Quote from: studio25 on September 05, 2013, 08:39:10 pmDoes anyone know the correct sequence for doing the calibration please?Tried most ways I can think of now,Thanks!

author: jstarr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2014, 06:58:08 pm
content: Just got my DP832... and I notice with the channels off that I can measure (on a NIST Agilent 6 1/2 digit meter) 3.8mV @ 1.4mA out of Channel 1; and 6.9mV @ 35uA on Channel 2. What's that about?Also, what's with the accuracy versus display?I set both Ch1 and CH2 to 5.000 vdc at 10mA.Channel 1 display shows 5.007 but reads 5.00105 on the AgilentChannel 2 display shows 5.013 but reads 5.00725 on the Agilent.Am I correct that the displayed voltage is derived from the sensed voltage on each channel. Is this a problem due to the common ground between the two channels?Whats the accuracy of the channels supposed to be and is that supposed to be correlated to the displayed/sensed voltage or the set voltage?john

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2014, 07:22:03 pm
content: Quote from: jstarr on March 01, 2014, 06:58:08 pmhttp://www.rigolna.com/products/dc-power-supplies/dp800/dp832/Display Accuracy Voltage 10mVWith high-resolution option: 1mVSo looks within spec.

author: jstarr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2014, 07:51:24 pm
content: I have the 1mV display option enabled. Would you agree that is NOT within their specifications?john

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2014, 08:05:42 pm
content: Ah sorry, I missed that, now you mention it it's obvious.Well, to be honest I don't know... There's a lot of different figures, one of them called "annual accuracy" which is 0.05% + 5mV which is about what you are seeing. And should we add up a few of those specs to get a worst case or not?

author: Owen
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2014, 08:08:09 pm
content: Quote from: jstarr on March 01, 2014, 07:51:24 pmIt's within their specification. The accuracy doesn't change with your resolution option. The manual states: Programming voltage 0.05 % +10 mV, programming current 0.2% + 10 mA; Readback voltage 0.05 % + 5 mV, readback current 0.015 % + 5 mA.

author: jstarr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2014, 08:49:39 pm
content: It's within their specification. The accuracy doesn't change with your resolution option. The manual states: Programming voltage 0.05 % +10 mV, programming current 0.2% + 10 mA; Readback voltage 0.05 % + 5 mV, readback current 0.015 % + 5 mA.Owen, thanks that is what I was trying to understand (learn). I didn't know that "Readback" was the Displayed Voltage.Please help me confirm if I understand this correctly now:So with 5.000 set, I should expect no better than +/- [(0.05% x 5.000)+10 mV] ? This would equal +/- [2.5mV + 10 mV] ?? So I can expect never to have single digit mV accuracy... it will always be at best 10mV accuracy?Similarly for Readback, assuming the true output was accurately set at 5.000 vdc, the displayed readback voltage would be +/- [(0.05 % x 5.000) + 5 mV]. So any readback within 7.5mV would be within spec?many thanksjohn

author: Owen
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2014, 10:27:58 pm
content: Quote from: jstarr on March 01, 2014, 08:49:39 pmYou've got it. Maybe you can tweak it a bit by calibrating your PSU once again. There's a guide how to calibrate it in the firmware/bug report thread for this device. Maybe that's what Dave/John did on his supply to get the 0.000 reading. But i'm not shure about the temperature drift of this device: Some degrees more ambient and you may could do it once again.

author: jstarr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 03:38:20 am
content: I forgot to ask about my original problem/question. With channels OFF I measure (on a NIST Agilent 6 1/2 digit meter) 3.8mV @ 1.4mA out of Channel 1; and 6.9mV @ 35uA on Channel 2. Is it normal to have anything other than zero with the Channel off? It seems the phantom voltage contributes to the error on the Readout value so not sure how calibration would improve this. Does anyone else have a measurable voltage/current when channels are OFF?thanksjohn

author: nack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 10:42:15 am
content: Isn't it just the output capacitors discharging trough your meter?

author: jstarr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 11:59:42 am
content: Quote from: nack on March 05, 2014, 10:42:15 amI don't think so for two reasons : 1) I have left the DMM connected for >12 hours and no drop in voltage or current; 2) if I set the supply voltage for 5.000 vdc and power the Channel on - the readout will show .... 5.000 + the off-channel voltage. In my case for example the off voltage on Ch2 is 6.95 mV and the DP832 readout show 5.007v. So the readout, sensor is correct as my DMM, it seems there is some phantom output even with channel off.Can I connect a dead short across the channel + and - to see if this removes the Off phantom power?PLEASE- can someone check if this happens on their DP832 or explain this observation?thanksjohn

author: K1JOS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 12:03:49 pm
content: Quote from: jstarr on March 05, 2014, 11:59:42 amI just checked my brand neww DP832A and I am seeing the same thing (somewhat different values) on my DP832A on Ch1 and CH2 with power off. Maybe we should start a new topic about this?Jerry

author: Owen
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 03:48:24 pm
content: Quote from: jstarr on March 05, 2014, 03:38:20 amThey probably don't switch the unit "off" they just set current and voltage to zero. If you'll turn the channel on and set the current and voltage down to zero it should show the same results.

author: K1JOS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2014, 04:46:30 pm
content: Quote from: Owen on March 05, 2014, 03:48:24 pmI found the same issue on my new DP832A. So if this is an "incorrect" zero volt /zero current setting then a re-calibration should correct it? Is that your thinking? Would be good news .jerry

author: K1JOS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2014, 02:09:21 am
content: John, it looks like it all can be corrected by the DAC and ADC calibration. I just completed Ch1 calibration and now have 0.0000 output with Ch1 OFF and I have very good output accuracy based on my recently calibrated 6.5 digit Agilent meter. I then found the ADC readout was off by almost 0.5v but I calibrated that as well and now everything is within 1-3 mV of where it should be. Wow, that is super-cool !!The only odd thing is that the calibration date still shows up as the factory calibration date of Sept xx 2013.Jerry

author: Owen
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2014, 07:41:10 pm
content: Quote from: K1JOS on March 05, 2014, 04:46:30 pmSorry for that late response. Yes thought that should do it. Thank you for your verification - good job.

author: K1JOS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 10:41:52 pm
content: Well, I spoke too soon. I was able to correct the voltage output and voltage readout very easily on CH1 but I didn't bother to check CH2 right away. Seems CH2 has the same kind of problem with set voltage, output voltage and readout voltage all being different. I went through the V-DAC calibration first and the output now on CH2 is perfect. But it is reading about 0.9V higher than the output. It seems to only do this fopr low outputs < 0.5v. I found it readsout 0.9v higher right up to a setting of 0.500 (at 0.500 the readout says 1.378v) but when I increase the output setting to 0.501V – the readout drops to within an acceptable value of 0.505v. Very bizarre. I also then tried the autocalibrate V-ADC button and it gave a message that calibration failed. In some threads it warned to wait at least 3 sec after entering the measured voltage before hitting 'input value' but this made no difference. It seems the DP832A has problems and this is my second one !! Well its going to go back to Tequipment for now.jerry

author: K1JOS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2014, 09:41:27 pm
content: Tequipment provides great customer service !! They contacted Rigol and sent me latest firmware 01.09 and I recalibrated the V-ADC. Now output, readout are near perfect and match exactly what I see on my Agiloent DMM for all 3 channels.thanks again Tequipment (Evan)JerryK1JOS

author: clivew
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2014, 11:00:59 am
content: Supplier who worked very well for me all the way is Telonic Instruments Ltd. (www.RIGOL-uk.co.uk) . I had some in-depth technical queries and Telonic was able to sort it andDave won't spin you a yarn. I screwed up the v1.09 upgrade on my DP832.Returned it to them, they returned it fully calibrated at no charge!Subsequently, when I bought the Hi-Res Option from them, the key didn't work.It turned out that v1.09 needs a different key, which Dave got for me, and nowall is good

author: ted572
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2014, 12:49:26 am
content: This is the new for 2014 Rigol DP800 Calibration guide.

author: shrek
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 29, 2015, 01:06:05 pm
content: Has anyone tried to hack the DP832's ANALOG board? Any luck with JTAG and full memory dump of the controller?

author: nbritton
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2015, 07:41:02 am
content: Quote from: shrek on May 29, 2015, 01:06:05 pmBump. Also did Rigol fix the overheating issue with the LM317?

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 15, 2015, 11:22:03 am
content: QuoteWhoa, yes! Many months ago.

author: NikWing
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2015, 02:03:43 pm
content: hey allI'm currently pondering to buy a DP832, but though I searched a lot, I didn't find exact answers to my questions.Maybe someone can help me outAFAIK the 832 is the same as 832A, except that the A has all options and a multicolor skin? No hardware differences?if I use the cookie gen to unl0ck the 832's options, it will be a 832A after I'm done. With no differences?Will there be the multi-color skin as in the 832A?And, if I want to upgrade the firmware later, I have to use 832's firmware or is it identical for both versions?Thanks a lot for any reply!

author: NikWing
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2015, 02:46:41 pm
content: PA0PBZ: yes, beside the colored buttons, what about my questions ^^;

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2015, 02:58:19 pm
content: Quote from: NikWing on September 20, 2015, 02:46:41 pmI don't think the multicolor display is an option you can enable, but the resolution and interfaces are easily hacked.

author: NikWing
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2015, 03:05:14 pm
content: okI try to decide between these 2 and I kinda like the colored display more (how the values are displayed and kept apart by different colors)but I don't know if it's worth the 300+ EUR if everything else is the same after using the cookiesand if the hardware is the same, I wonder if there's just 1 firmware for both and the device knows if it's A or non-A because it's set in some eeprom or whatever, I didn't yet find out about that

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2015, 03:08:16 pm
content: I have a fully unlocked DP832, and never tried to find out if the multicolor display is possible on this unit. I just don't like that display...