hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
FT232rl won't register with my pc - easy way to check if it's dead - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: amateur_25
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2011, 05:53:28 pm
content: HiI'm having problems with my ft232rl which was at least recognised by my pc. I moved the txd and rxd because I swapped them around on the arduino side by accident.As well some tidying up of wires. Now it won't even be detected by my pc. I have checked I ground everything inc the test pin.I'm wondering if there is an easy way of checking if I've killed the chip? As far as I can tell it's fine because the 3.3v out is delivering 3.3volts. Is there a way I can use my scope to see if it'soscillating? I didn't get anything on pin 28 or 27.I'm using the self powered design I got from the datasheet. 4.7K (top resistor) 10K (bottom)

author: rf-loop
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2011, 06:52:43 pm
content: Typically AGND (pin25) is also connected to GND.

author: amateur_25
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2011, 08:50:48 pm
content: I've done that aswell oh well. So there really isn't an easy way to test if it's dead?

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2011, 02:32:15 am
content: Quote from: amateur_25 on November 14, 2011, 08:50:48 pmWhat is the test pin for? I am not being sarcastic here.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2011, 05:02:12 am
content: if you dont have proper tool. get a fresh new chip, try install it carefully, and compare how it works with the CUT (chip under test).

author: amateur_25
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2011, 11:55:29 am
content: I assumed I can't use that pin since I couldn't find any references to it other than it must be tied to gnd.So what do I need to test the chip then?
FTDI 232 is used as device, what equivalent for host - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2018, 06:59:56 am
content: 1. To send data to PC from MCU via USB, generally FTDI232 is ineterfaced which act as device.2. I need to interface pen drive now with MCU, what equivalent uart to usb bridge I can use.

author: Peabody
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2018, 02:05:33 pm
content: There is something called the CH376S that might work.
ftdi cable problems - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 11:22:34 am
content: I'm trying to use an FTDI cable. the part number is TTL-232RG-VIP-WE I'm a bit confused as to wether I need to supply is power on the 5V wire. I get an occasional LED flash on the plug but if I short the RX and TX wires I get no response back from it.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 01:02:37 pm
content: For the -VIP- cable the red wire is *NOT* power out. You *MUST* supply VCCIO on the red wire. It sets the logic levels so simply connect it to Target Vdd (up to 5V)

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 01:40:50 pm
content: Yea that is what I thought, there is 5V coming from it if you measure but I guess it's just a pull up or something to the USB power. I seem to have it working now.

author: KD0CAC John
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 03:27:29 pm
content: Don't know if this would work or not , but it looks like part of what I was looking for - a data & rig control for my ham radio Kenwood TS850 , I would need to add a 6 pin din on other end ?Thanks for any added info .
FTDI programming auto-reset circuit. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: implor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2020, 12:21:18 pm
content: Hi.I'm trying to understand this circuit but when I simulate it dosen't work.FTDI 231X and ESP32As I understand it you will need to First pull IO0 to gnd (set ESP in download boot) and then toggle Reset while IO0 is low.What I have read DTR should go active first (active low in this FTDI chip) and then RTS should follow.My problem is how DTR and RTS work. Should they go low and stay low? Do DTR go high when RTS go low?Diffrent sources gives diffrent awnsers on google.Example:And:
ftdi serial communication - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cosminnci
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 07:23:15 am
content: Hi,I made a pcb of the design in the image, it is a usb to 1 wire converter with a ft232rl and ds2480B.the usb is detected, the ds2489B is comunicating partially, but not reading the sensors, I debugged till got to the uart part where the txo line looks bad.what could cause this? I tested connecting the ftdi to a second ftdi and sending data, all looks ok.thank youregards,Cosmin

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 07:26:34 am
content: You have tx going to tx and rx going to rx.A tx pin on an IC is always a transmitter ie output.editactually I think you have it right, that ds2480 chip looks to have tx rx inverted internally. WeirdAlso, are you feeding 3.3v into the 3.3v output? It has its own 3.3 reg so doesn't need/want that.The scope pic looks like a grounding issue

author: cosminnci
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 07:37:11 am
content: the 3,3v is only a breakout, it is not used. the ds needs 4.5-5v

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 07:41:06 am
content: What is the sensor ?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 07:45:12 am
content: Quote from: cosminnci on October 05, 2015, 07:37:11 amNo, it doesn't.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 07:54:02 am
content: Where is vccio connected to?

author: cosminnci
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 07:58:21 am
content: The sensor is a ds18b20.I mean I do not use the 3.3v from the ftdi, I placed the pads for testing only.I made the same circuit on a breadboard and works.something on my design is wrong, and I think on the ftdi part.the ds is on the breadboard and the ftdi is on the pcb, and I get the tx line like in the image.vccio is unconnected..

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 07:59:28 am
content: ... Well you need to connect vccio or it has nothing to drive the outputs with.

author: cosminnci
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 08:00:37 am
content: I use the 5v from the usb directly

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 08:11:18 am
content: Vccio powers half the chip, It needs to be connected to a rail.3.3 if you want 3.3v io and 5v if you want 5v io

author: cosminnci
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 09:56:50 am
content: Thank you Psi, that was it, it is working now, I missed that connection.
FTDI to single line - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2020, 02:18:29 pm
content: I have FTDI friend from Adafruithttps://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/1200x900/284-00.jpgand I am thinking if there is a way to connect it as a single line programmer. I have this gyro systemhttps://www.beastx.com/eng/microbeast_plus.phpand I believe they use single line UART to USB for PC connection interface. Microbeastx sells their own USB2SYS programmer but I believe there is FTDI chip inside anyway. Would there be a way to wire my FTDI friend to single line programmer? I just tried to hook it up to PC and the Microbeastx software detect my Adafruit FTDI on COM3. So yes, it is recognized, just don't know how to wire it.

author: radiolistener
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2020, 02:55:10 pm
content: tx to rx and rx to tx

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2020, 10:46:06 pm
content: Not available. Only GND and signal wire output. 2wires total.

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2020, 02:15:55 pm
content: Yes, it is a one wire.I'd check a few things first.With the unit powered check the voltage on the pin.See if it's the full battery voltage or some lower regulated voltage.With the unit powered off, using regular ohm range (not diode) check the resistance from the + pin to the SYS pin.In the sleaziest case you can just connect TX from the FTDI to the cathode of a diode, anode to the SYS pin.Then connect the SYS pin to a 1 k resistor to the RX of the FTDI.In a cleaner version, you can feed TX to an inverter (either IC or just another transistor) and feed that into a MOSFET (like a 2N7000).The RX could be handled through a level shifter or just another 2N7000 and an inverter.I did about the same for the OBD-1 on my Chevy which is a 5 V one wire sort of interface (not CAN bus).

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2020, 02:36:03 pm
content: Some FTDI USB UART chips have pin modes intended for I2C bus operation, so support configuring TX as open drain and simply strapping it to RX. However you need to configure it so if you aren't 100% certain the official FTDI based programmer does that, Renate's suggestions will be safer. If you use a simple diode it should be Schottky to get a low enough logic '0' level.
FTDI to RS232 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2014, 11:13:02 pm
content: Will this chiphttp://www.adafruit.com/products/284convert to RS232? I have a software that transfers data thru DB9F connector but my new notebook doesn't have serial output connector obviously. 4 wires are required: RCV, XMT, DTR, GND.Does this FTDI chip have capability to convert to RS 232? I was looking online but I am not sure. My another question is what are the true RS 232 connector voltage levels?

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2014, 11:15:59 pm
content: No. You need a level converter like a MAX232 or equivalent.Quote

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2014, 02:02:00 am
content: OK, thanks. But other than voltage levels it should work.?

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2014, 02:24:16 am
content: Sure. After all, itisan FT232. Basically it is a USB to UART converter.To answer your question - modern RS232 levels are nominal +/- 3V to 15V with respect to ground. Polarity is inverted from normal logic TTL/3.3v levels, that is, for RS-232, a logic 1 is -V, logic 0 is +V. You must use a level converter for the FT232 to work with a device that uses a DB9 connector. The FT232 uses +V as logic 1, 0V as logic 0. It's all on Wikipedia if you really want to know the details.The one you list from Adafruit is pretty pricey at $14.75+shipping, I got some CP2102 adapters off eBay for under $2.50 including shipping. If you don't need RTS/CTS/DTR/DSR/DCD handshake lines and are willing to wait a couple of weeks, buy a bunch of these.If you need one with a DB-9 and true RS232, you would want something like this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-USB-RS232-9-Pin-Serial-Port-DB9-Cable-adapter-Vista-/140594195129?pt=US_Parallel_Serial_PS_2_Cables_Adapters&hash=item20bc112ab9

author: IvoS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2014, 09:37:54 pm
content: Thanks. I already have thishttp://www.trendnet.com/products/proddetail.asp?prod=150_TU-S9USB to RS232 converter. When I was trying to connect my Rigol scope to it, it didn't work for some reason. I don't need it for my Rigol scope though, I need it to hook up old firealarm panel that uses RS232. I will have to check somehow if that USB/232 convertor has the right voltage levels.

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2014, 12:33:58 am
content: http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/Cables/USBRS232.htmReadymade offitial FTDI to RS232 cable. Works better than the ones from eBay, has all the lines and a genuine chip:Chipi-X10Datasheet:http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/DataSheets/Cables/DS_Chipi-X.pdfBuy on Mouser:http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/FTDI/CHIPI-X10/?qs=m5ogiX/X43nzRp8XLQeQIA==
FTP410 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: iRGUY
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 22, 2021, 06:52:31 pm
content: Trying to find out why i cannot see the tX outputs or CLK signals from the chip on my digital scope when the chip is connected to a monitor thru an HDMI port. I only see 1.8 high levels on each output due probably to the pull-up resistors from the monitor. I tried observing these same outputs from a Gumstix Summit board connected to a display the same way and it had a picture on it but again all I could see when I monitor the lines are 1.8V levels. How can I view the signals?
Fubata/JR servo leads. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2018, 08:30:50 pm
content: I have found these things quite useful in breadboarding.Basically the Futaba servo format is 3 pin ribbon (or twisted triple) with male or female connectors with the same pitch as standard breadboard headers. If you hack the surround off the female end you get a 3 pin header. Males connect directly to standard "breadboard" spaced PCB headers.Then you can get Y splits, bus bars, extensions etc.They are incredibly cheap. If you buy long 30cm Male to Female you can cut them half way for tails to solder with whichever gender of plug you want.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10Pcs-300mm-Servo-Extension-Lead-Wire-Cable-For-RC-Futaba-JR-Male-to-Female-30cm/222235172585?epid=2109243260&hash=item33be3f9ee9:g:GcUAAOSwvzRXxnGQHow many things do you come across that have 3 pins?

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2018, 09:11:18 pm
content: Futaba and JR/Hitec leads are not interchangeable. Futaba have a tab, JR/Hitec have a bevel. Personally, I am a JR/Hitec person. When I buy generic male housings (w/ female connectors), I just use a hobby knife to cut a bevel. There is no easy way to add a tab.You also need to consider the type of retention device used. Some are barb, some indent and at least two types of indent. I prefer the indent, which is typical of JR/Hitec.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2018, 09:19:28 pm
content: Or just buy the cheap ones that have no retention, bevel or tab and work with all 3 pin header type plugs.You can't get 3 square header wires into the surround of the female though. You have to cut the surround off and make it a male header.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2018, 09:33:59 pm
content: Quote from: paulca on January 03, 2018, 09:19:28 pmI have been doing it a long time and have never had to do that with Berg (or equivalent) contacts and appropriate plastic components.
Fuelsensor question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 17, 2017, 10:46:14 am
content: I have a Siemens LOGO! 0BA8 to control the heater and ceilingfans in my workshop. Now i have a hour counter, to remind me to check oillevel in the tank. But sometimes i run out of fuel, because i forget to check the level.Fuelsensor seems to be reasonably priced. Something like these;http://www.wemausa.com/sensors/level-FuelWater.shtmlIt seems like a european standard says 0 ohm empty and 190 ohm full. And a us standard is 240 ohm empty and 30 ohm full.The problem is my LOGO!'s PSU is outputting 24V, and the analog inputs takes 0-10V.Can I use a fuelsensor like the one linked above, supply it with 24V and get a 0-10V feedback from it? The LOGO! manual mentions something about a 6,6K resistor for 24/0-10V signals.Can someone shed light over it?Thanks.

author: Ridocar
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 17, 2017, 01:27:53 pm
content: Start with measuring the current when you send 10 V in the Logo to determine the divider-resistors.
Full Adder behaves weird when I'm near - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: NeonWilson
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 21, 2017, 06:43:37 pm
content: Hello, I'm learning about logic and today I built a full adder in my breadboard. Everything is correctly wired but when I'm near or I touch a cable the LEDs start to turn on, but if I touch the breadboard cables with a tool nothing happens.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjedeH345ys&feature=youtu.be

author: halexa
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2017, 07:00:31 pm
content: Hi,First quess, one or multiple floating inputs.Second, lack of decoupling caps.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2017, 07:06:54 pm
content: Floating input and/or bad (high resistance) jumper. Your hand introduces capacitively coupled mains hum (with your whole body acting as an antennae for it), a non conductive tool does not.I don't see any decoupling capacitors. There should be a 0.1uF ceramic cap from power to ground directly across each logic chip.Breadboard jumpers like that are nothing but trouble. They are all far too long for your application, and many suppliers use crappy wire and/or fail to connect the ends properly. Get some scrap CAT5 solid core cable or similar and cut jumpers to the actual length required. Round a single chip all wiring should be nearly flat to the board. Chip to chip can arch up a bit, say 2cm max, and if it is going from one end of the board to the other, its acceptable for it to arch up about 4cm.
Full Adder Issues - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ziptol
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2019, 04:23:32 am
content: I've been working on a full adder and just finished building it out on a breadboard, but have been having some issues. It only works some of the time, to the point where I put in an input and get the correct output, switch it, then put it back and get a different output. I'm pretty sure it has to do with my cheapo breadboard, but the prospect of soldering all of this onto perf-board is hardly enticing. I just wanted to check to see that my circuit SHOULD work and there's no flaws that could be causing this before I solder it all.Thanks!

author: jhpadjustable
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2019, 12:59:44 pm
content: For example, let's look at Q1 and Q2 and their surrounding resistors first. Assume R24 and R8-R11 are disconnected for now. For each of the 4 input combinations, what voltage will you see across R3? Try to figure it out without the breadboard first, then measure results from the breadboard. Can you explain the discrepancies? Do you notice any patterns?
Full Bridge Rectifier Output to Transformer  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: metrologist
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2016, 02:34:48 am
content: I'm trying to repair my Tek 2430A o-scope. The main input is rectified and each +/- outputs go through windings of a transformer with a 10k resistor in parallel with each winding. Would they be using the transformer as an inductor, or what else?

author: Galaxyrise
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2016, 04:28:08 am
content: The schematics are available in the service manual on Tek's web site:http://www.tek.com/oscilloscope/2430-manual/2430Page 409 for that part (diagram 23), around 3C on the schematic. There's also a nice picture of what waveform to expect on the positive side, which shows a much higher frequency component than just mains.The part list calls it a "TRANSFORMER,RF:HIGH FREQUENCY COMM MODE". I'm also interested to hear more about what's going on with it; it's something to do with the switching supply that follows it, I guess?

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2016, 10:10:04 am
content: The transformer is acting as a common mode choke to suppress noise - inductors can be used for the same purpose but will produce more distortion on the output waveform. I'm not sure how critical that is in power supply design but I guess it just depends on the application, hopefully someone else can elaborate for me.

author: metrologist
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2016, 12:38:22 am
content: Thanks! Legwork and insightThe two 2200 pf metalized paper caps there were replaced and I get about a minute of on time before the display goes off and the scope locks up. Back to the bad cap witch hunt.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2016, 12:03:32 pm
content: Those 2200 pF caps likely need to be Y-rated caps. This are high quality caps with a special safety rating, so they won't fail with a short.The common mode choke acts as an high inductance for the common mode signal. The magnetic flields of the two coils compensate so the core will not saturate when used in the normal way. The normal load current will also see not much of the inductance. Usually it's used to prevent RF interference, not so much for normal function.
Full bridge rectifier probing question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Lucky-Luka
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2019, 12:13:39 pm
content: Hi allI'm watching an episode from ElectroBOOM channel regarding FBR.At 2:20 an explosion occour (as always in that channel).He explained the reson but... I haven't really understood it.The ground of the probe is shorted to the earth of the power plug (of the scope?)... why?Cheers

author: StillTrying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2019, 01:20:21 pm
content: He explained the reason but... I haven't really understood it.A Fool Bridge Rectifier always connects the lowest AC voltage to its -ve output, which is usually used as a circuit's DC GND, For a bare mains connection the lowest AC voltage is -155 or -330v and it's not very a good idea to have your GND at -155V to -330V which is why it went bang when the scopes 0V GND was connected.Removing the scopes earth connectionso you canhave the GND at -155 to -330V is a very bad idea. I'm surprised he didn't get electrocuted, but I still live in hope.

author: Per Hansson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 28, 2019, 04:52:44 pm
content: EEVblog #279 - How NOT To Blow Up Your Oscilloscope!

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2019, 01:54:25 am
content: I highly recommend you draw the schematic out it really helps. Trace the current path from one half cycle and then the other direction for the other half cycle. Then add where you think the oscilloscope changes the circuit and observe what effect it would have on the current paths.The main hint I will give you is that mains neutral in many parts of the world is tied (connected) directly to mains ground/earth. Here is a video below that shows this and is helpful to watch, so include that in your schematic path when you connect the oscilloscope.Some interesting questions to ask yourself is how much current is flowing when you add the oscilloscope and what the diode voltage drops are before and after you add the oscilloscope.
Full discharge protection battery circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: _Vendetta_
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2021, 02:11:37 pm
content: Hello EEVBloggers,I have been trying to design a circuit that auto disconnect an NiCD battery pack of 3.6V when it reachs around 3V. The battery shall remain disconnected until either plugged to the charger again or the voltage reachs 3.6V again. My idea went an hysterisis solution using an LM311 comparator as show in the image attached.I tried to water down the values of the battery using the divider. so when the battery reachs 3V (2.3V at the output of the divider), the output of the comparator is high. When the battery reachs 3.6V (2.73V volt at the output of the divider), the comparator pulls down the output.I tried the circuit in real life it kinda does not give me the wanted result. The circuit basically pulls down at 3.2V instead of 3.6V. The rest is fine. I am aware that i maybe should try using an LMV comparator but i only have this component on hand at the moment.I heard that i can achieve the same behavior using NCP301 with some extra hysterisis. Looking forward your remarks / advice.Thank you.EDIT: the Vref at the positive comparator input is 2.5V Zener.

author: ggchab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2021, 06:41:43 pm
content: The minimum recommended supply voltage is 3.5VThe input voltage should be between VCC– + 0.5 and VCC+ – 1.5

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2021, 08:34:21 pm
content: It's not obvious from your schematic but hopefully you are putting the circuit on the load side of the cutoff device (with some means of resetting it). You don't want all those resistive loads, reference current and comparator supply current drawing from the discharged battery.If you do want it straight across the battery then you need to go CMOS, micropower reference, and take all the resistor values up by a few orders of magnitude.By the way, you don't need to use a comparator for this application. You're not bothered about operating speed or open collector output so you can quite happily substitute a low voltage rail to rail CMOS opamp.
Full material declaration (FMD) for Murata parts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: MarkPham
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 01, 2024, 03:35:09 am
content: Hi allDoes anybody has experience to find/search the FMD report (or MCD IPC1752) for Murata parts?I have tried to work with Distributor, and go to web page of Murata but I can not receive the report as wellIf anybody have known and have report on hand, could you please share with meHere is the list of part that I need the report ASAPGCM31CR71A226KE02LGCM1555C1H221JA16DGCM155R71H103KA55JGCM155R71E104KE02DGRT155R61E105ME01DGRT155R61A475ME13DGRT188R61H105KE13DBLM31SN500SH1LLQM21FN4R7M80LGCM155R71H104KE02DGCM1885C2A821FA16DGCM1885C2A470JA16DGCJ188R71E105KA01DGCM21BR71A106KE22KGCM155R71H271KA37JGCM1555C1H8R0DA16DGCJ188R91E334MA01JGCJ32ER70J476KE01LDLW32MH201XK2LBLM21SP601SH1DGCM1555C1H750JA16DGCD188R71H103KA01DGCM32EC71H106KA03LGCM155R71C104KA55JGCM1555C1H220FA16DBLM18SG121TZ1DGCM155R71H473KE02JGCM155R72A472KA37DGCM1555C1H131JA16DBLM15EG121SZ1DXRCGB24M000F0L00R0GCM155R71C224KE02DGCM1555C1H200JA16DGCM1555C1H331JA16DGCM32EC71A476KE02KGCM1555C1H470FA16DGCM1555C1H120JA16DBLM18SP101SH1DBLM18KN121EH1DBLM15AX601SN1DXRCGB25M000F3A01R0BLM21SP601SZ1DLQH43PH221M26LBLM15AX601SZ1DBest regards

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2024, 04:31:45 pm
content: The FMD is designed to solve all compliance burden imposed by governments.It is VERY costly to create and document for even ONE part.https://www.compliancexl.com/solutions/compliance-reporting/full-material-disclosure/Most component mfg do not yet have any FMD yet. It would cost Murata M$ to do what you ask,Suggest:1/ Contact Murata headquarters ask for FMD for each part.2/ Contact your client/OEM etc who ask for these FMD, refer them to link above to pay for FMD analysis.3/ Better to post on forums for compliance or manufacturers and NOT EEV Blog beginners.Bon chancej
Full or partial decoding for memory interfacing? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: shivajikobardan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2021, 04:29:04 pm
content: Which address decoding is better for memory interfacing. I think we can do any of them. But I am confused which is more beneficial for memory interfacing. My inituition tells full decoding but why I don't know.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2021, 06:02:09 pm
content: Partial decoding is only for super-compact, super-cheap applications that have no expansion possibilities planned.Otherwise it's a thing of the past. Modern CPU systems use full decoding, with a CPLD it's easy and cost effective.

author: ejeffrey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2021, 12:02:22 am
content: Interfacing from what? What non-vintage processor still has a generic external parallel IO bus where this would even be relevant?Also what Benta said: there is little reason to do partial decoding. If it comes to it, a single cheap CPLD can do address decoding to drive a huge number of chip select lines.

author: retiredfeline
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2021, 12:27:37 am
content: Both work. It all depends on what you are trying to do and what resources you have. If you building your own system for learning, you won't be expanding the system, and you only have standard decoders, it's fine to partially decode. It's not as if the memory will suffer if you don't fully decode. But some address ranges will be aliases of others.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2021, 12:37:19 am
content: Partial decoding consumes more of the usable address space because the same memory appears at multiple address locations. If you do not need the wasted address space for anything else then it makes no difference at all. There is typically little reason to bother with partial decoding anymore though, a small CPLD can easily fully decode an entire 16 bit address space.
Full-wave rectifier circuit - question about the simulation results - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Chris42
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2020, 05:11:37 pm
content: Hello!I'm a Telecommunication and Computer Science student (basically electronics and computer science connected together) from Poland.Last week I've got an assignment from electronics to simulate and analyze the following circuit:It's a full bridge rectifier with a single smoothing capacitor and a resistor as a load. The task was to simulate the operation of the circuit and measure some basic parameters like mean output voltage, ripple, voltage drop and so on. It was a bit boring decided to experiment a little more.I hacked together a simple python3 package to interface with the netlist file and generated some additional characteristics.The one that is really bothering me is the output ripple as a function of load value and filtering capacitor value.The ripple Vpp value is computed by substracting the mean output voltage from the signal and then running it through ptp function (function that computes peak to peak value) provided by the numpy package (python package for performing numerical calculations).It seems that for any given load, the ripple first decreases with the increasing capacitance and then it starts to increase again.Me theory is that with the increasing capacitance the impedance of the capacitor decreases which increases the current during charging which increases the voltage drop on the diods which increases the ripple. The effect would be more visible for the low loads (by load I mean current drawn by the resistor) because the current flowing through the capacitor would start to dominate the one flowing through the load.This is kind of visible on the peak capacitor current plot.The other possibility is that I screwed up the simulation.The question is which explanation is correct?ps: How do I decrease the image size? For some reason the images are huge and I don't see any option to shrink them down.

author: Etesla
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2020, 07:11:49 pm
content: I don't know what program you are using to simulate your circuit, but my first guess is that you are taking measurements in your python code before the circuit has reached its steady state. This would be more evident with higher capacitance's, and it would also be very dependent on the diode model you used. Here's a quick visual of what I'm talking about.

author: Chris42
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2020, 07:21:31 pm
content: You are right! The time before the beginning of the data capture was set to 0.02s which is not enough. I changed it to 5s and I'm rerunning the simulations now. The simulator I used is called Xyce. Diod model is a simple level 1 diod model corresponding to part no 1N3940.

author: Chris42
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2020, 06:44:08 pm
content: I reran the simulation (it took a while) and here are the correct results:Now it makes sense. Ripple increases exponentially with the decreasing capacitance.New capacitor current values:
Oscilloscope Full Width at half maximum measurement? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: masterpj55
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2019, 06:37:41 pm
content: Hey Guys.I'm trying to measure the " full width at half maximum" on my rigol oscilloscope (Rigol DS1054Z) but really cannot figure out how this would be done.I want to know the pulse width between 2 points where the value is half of the maximum value of a pulse.

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2019, 07:42:04 pm
content: Using the softkeys on the left side of the screen, select "+Width" from the Horizontal measurements. That will measure the width of a pulse at the "middle" threshold value.The "middle" threshold values defaults to 50%, i.e. half maximum, which is what you want. But it can be changed viaMeasure > Setting > Type > Threshold.This is described on page 6-26 in my version of the manual. (Figure 6-3 and the text below.)

author: masterpj55
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2019, 08:29:26 pm
content: Thank you so much! So i was doing it right! Apreciate it!Rigol on the phone wasn't sure but im glad this is confirmed now
Fume extraction options in Aus - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Ry009
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 04:14:04 am
content: Hi allMassive newbie here, after weeks of research on getting a soldering station and finally getting one. More analysis paralysis on my needs for fume extraction.I've done some extensive searching on youtube, google Reddit etc. and was guided to this forum. Also searched some existing threads and still need some guidance.Just to outline my situation;Massive beginnerAny soldering work will be done in the Garage, roller door open in warm months, closed but with standard rear door open in colder months.Pure hobby, dont imagine i'll be doing much more than 2-3 sessions a week, for no more than 60-90 minutes at a timeI looked at the Kotto Soldering Smoke Absorber (can see its been mentioned here before) but wondering if an AU DC power supply will work with it?https://buildkotto.com/collections/all-products/products/kotto-soldering-smoke-absorber-electric-iron-welding-fume-extractor-soldering-smoke-absorber-remover-diy-fume-extractor-filter-with-strong-suction-1With that being said, when I've mentioned the above item elsewhere - I've been directed to go the DIY option instead, especially due to price. I totally understand that- however looking at the guides that I've seen - my preference would be to pay the premium on convience and take the hit cost wise and look at different DIY option in the future. This is my first real dip into DIY, I'd rather hit the ground running with this.Are there any other considerations I haven't made? Eg: 3M Mask/Purifier combo?Is any of the above overkill?Please be kindI've tried to do as much research as possible prior to posting here.

author: John B
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 08:19:08 am
content: It can be as simple as an inline fan with ducting and window mounts for a portable AC device. As you've found the professional HEPA activated charcoal bells and whistle units are quite the expense, mainly because they are aimed at businesses and regulated production environments.

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 09:50:22 am
content: I simply use a small handheld vacuum cleaner, which I have equipped with an extra carbon mat (from the kitchen steam extractor).As I only solder 2-3 times a month, this is perfectly adequate as a makeshift solution.It works better than you might think, but if you solder every day, you will certainly want a more professional solution.

author: ahsrabrifat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 02:24:05 pm
content: The specs say power consumption is 120V-240V, 40W ( 12V, 4A power supply). However, I cannot see what type of DC socket it contains (if any). So, it's difficult to say if it supports AU DC power supply.Anyway, you can check this review video for more info
Fume Extractor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: knarf180
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 26, 2019, 11:06:56 pm
content: The fume extractor I have really doesn't do much.https://imgur.com/gallery/dZuRmAOI was looking into getting something like this:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LY-iron-welding-soldering-fume-smoke-collector-with-lighting-M10106/32830194508.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.1a9c2e0e8WaUO5Unless you guys could point me towards a better fume extractor under $100.thanks much!

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 26, 2019, 11:15:12 pm
content: Under $100 the only decent thing you could do is to move fumes to the outside. There are no filters below $100 which will do the job, not even $200-300. After $400 there will start to appear something useful.
Fun electronic kits - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: LiGhTMaGiCk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 12:05:07 pm
content: I love soldering and putting together small electronic devices but can never find any kits for anything fun/actually useful. There's always like electronic dice or decision makers but I'd like to find something much more involved. Anybody seen any kits or anything for protects that look both fun and not just super simple like 555 timer circuits and the like? Also if I had to say my skill level it would be between beginner and novice, I can solder circuits all day long with no problems and I love following a set of instructions as long as the end result is something fun.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 01:15:04 pm
content: Worth getting an amateur radio license. A whole world of stuff opens up then for kits that actually do stuff:https://www.qrp-labs.com/(worth looking at the clock and GPS kit from them - no license required and will give you a GPS setting clock with location awareness and all sorts!)https://qrpguys.com/Then there's the motherlode of all kits ever made:http://www.elecraft.com/k2_page.htm

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 01:41:51 pm
content: https://www.tindie.com/

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 06:28:47 pm
content: eBay is full of things like this:https://www.ebay.com/itm/XR2206-1Hz-1MHz-Function-Signal-Generator-Sine-Square-Triangle-Wave-Output-kits/331976478823andhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/DSO138-2-4-TFT-Digital-Oscilloscope-Kit-DIY-Parts-1Msps-Probe-STM32/113225238864Don't know how to estimate the fun of this though.

author: tsman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 09:04:46 pm
content: Quote from: bd139 on October 11, 2018, 01:15:04 pmJust winding the handful of coils on a QCX was annoying enough for me

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 09:43:21 pm
content: Ah yes. T1. If you pass the T1 test you are immortal(I've done three now)

author: LiGhTMaGiCk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 12, 2018, 12:03:00 am
content: Thanks to everyone for your replies, I'll probably be looking at that tindie website as it looks more my speed.
Fun electronics projects for teaching , especially with Raspberry Pi or RTLSDR?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2021, 10:19:19 pm
content: Because they pack a lot of value into a small space Ive given away a bunch of RTL dongles and SBCs to friends and neighbors. I am not wanting for ideas of fun stuff to do with them, BUT I CAN ALWAYS USE MORE!Thinking of young people and teachers who might be just starting out with Unix too, what are some good learning projects that dont break the bank. I think the most useful thing people can learn and the thing that has brought me the most joy is Unix/Linux, and the Raspberry Pi is a great platform for using it. With its GPIOs, 12c and SMbus and UARTs, etc. Its hard to find a more flexible tool for learning basics of many kinds. Especially the unseen worlds around us, including of course the radio spectrum.If you were a teacher, and keeping in mind "what kids like" what would you be building with your class, to introduce them to these two devices?Maybe receiving ADSB and displaying it via a program like dump1090 on a web page is a good multi-disiplinary project. Or extracting raw GPS data from a ublox GPS module and deconstructing GPS using rtklib. (rtklib.com) Showing how you can get data precise enough to see your apartment building swaying in the wind. Or even glacial rebound (over time)

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2021, 10:35:18 pm
content: Are you talking 1st or 10th graders?I think you need to refine your approach somehow...
Fun projects - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jose347
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2019, 04:14:26 pm
content: So you own a power supply, an oscilloscope and a function generator. Whats next?what are you suggestion for fun and simple projects to start the ball rolling?

author: jose347
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2019, 04:28:47 pm
content: I'll start for the shy people, I think an oscillator is a cool and simple project to make, making an AC signal out of DC and be able to look at it from the oscilloscope is gratifying.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2019, 05:08:58 pm
content: Measure the resonant frequency and quality of a LC-tank circuit using the ring-down method:http://www.giangrandi.ch/electronics/ringdownq/ringdownq.shtmlAnd's here's a video:

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2019, 05:24:51 pm
content: If your generator is stable enough and can be micro-adjusted in frequency, you might try to find resonant frequency of a crystal. I did that with a rather large batch of crystals and was disappointed in how inaccurately they were marked.A crystal has two resonances, you hope, and they are very close in frequency. One is parallel and is sensitive to circuit loading. The other is series and is probably a better check.Many of the crystals I tested had multiple resonances, some dangerously close to marked frequency. They are probably products of sloppy manufacturing but since I never manufactured one I don't really know.
Fun way to measure input capacitance of scope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kronos
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2021, 05:53:59 pm
content: I have been playing with the pros and cons of connecting a coaxial cable to the scope instead of the probe. I have also been checking the transmission line stuff. And I wondered how much the input capacitance of my scope really is (it is specified as 13 pF).Yes, you can measure it in many ways. For example, connecting it via a resistor to a sharp square wave generator and looking to its rise time. I liked however the idea of measuring it with a nanoVNA. You can connect it (or any capacitor) to the VNA input (after calibrating), and it can measure it in the Smith Chart, sure. I have found however that this measurement is sometimes not very reliable.So I have seen that connecting to the VNA a coaxial cable of known characteristics (impedance, velocity factor, length) and then connecting this coax to the scope (which is what you do when you use a direct coax connection instead of a probe, but without terminating it with a 50 ohm load) can help. At least I got correct measurements.The method is based upon the response at the input of that coax when terminated by a capacitor (in this case, the input of the scope, as the 1 M ohm resistor is infinite in practice). It behaves as a notch filter, like in the figure.So when you measure its reflection coefficient with the VNA (frequency range from 50 MHz to 200 MHz for example, depending on your cable length), you get this Smith chart:Notice that you can measure the frequency at which it crosses the (-1,0) point (or zero impedance). This is the frequency of the notch in the frequency response.It is easier and more precise to measure the phase with the VNA:The searched frequency is the one where the phase reaches -180 degrees, and you see clearly the jump from -180 to 180.In any case, it turns out that this frequency fulfills the following equation:So you have just measured the frequency, and you know all other parameters except for the capacitance C. You can then clear it from the equation.A small change in value of the capacitor makes a great change in the frequency of the notch, and this is very precisely measured by the phase plot of the VNA. So this method helps with very small capacitors, in pF range.I have measured the input capacitance of my Rigol scope to be 12 pF with one vertical amplifier and 14 pF with the other. The specified value is 13 pF, so it seems to be OK.
Fun with FEMM magnetics simulator (am I doing this right?) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cur8xgo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2019, 05:00:06 am
content: To learn and possibly use as a design tool (if I eventually learn how to use and interpret it) I've downloaded the free FEMM magnetics (and other things) simulatorPictures attached are my attempt to simulate current density in a fairly big (12 cm x 16 cm x 6 cm core size) EE/EI transformer. The primary is 6 turns of 2 AWG (0.26" / 6.5mm diameter)The current is set to 350 amps @ 625HzI had it integrate the losses in the areas of the conductors..it says 38W..hmmmThis took maybe 20 minutes to generate the simulation results btwNext I will try to put a secondary.Any advice or tips would be welcome and appreciatedThe software is pretty straightforward to use..it has very simple inputs but I get the impression its very powerful at the same time..If anyone has interesting simulation ideas I might draw it up and run itEdit: just noticed it has 7 turns...doesn't really matter that much at this point I guess.Edit: I think I did something wrong because its showing flux density in the core at 2T..should be a tenth of that. I think I know what it was..I will re-sim