Moderately-Priced Microscope for SMD Soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: baElectronic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2013, 08:13:22 am
content: Hi,I'm looking to buy a boom microscope for SMD soldering in the next few days, and I'd like to stay under $250 (preferably, under $200). Here are a few I'm considering:http://www.ebay.com/itm/AmScope-20X-Stereo-Binocular-Microscope-Boom-Arm-Light-/200757834216?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ebe1971e8http://www.ebay.com/itm/AmScope-20X-Stereo-Boom-Arm-Microscope-/400297156237?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d3391de8dhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/20X-40X-STEREO-BOOM-ARM-MICROSCOPE-CAMERA-LIGHT-/350285076208?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item518e9e16f0This one is a bit out of my price range:http://www.ebay.com/itm/20X-40X-BOOM-STAND-STEREO-MICROSCOPE-RING-LIGHT-/350138893334?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5185e78416Any other suggestions?Thanks.

author: mazurov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2013, 09:45:06 am
content: I have the last one - it is very good.

author: baElectronic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2013, 10:11:59 am
content: Quote from: mazurov on February 16, 2013, 09:45:06 amIt looks like the working distance is 4" as opposed to the 6" or 9" that the other scopes offer. Do you have any issues with SMD soldering?

author: TerminalJack505
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2013, 10:27:11 am
content: You'll probably want to get one with a 0.5X Barlow lens. This increases the working distance by 2x.BTW, I have an Amscope stereo microscope and I'm very happy with it. The one I have is similar to the one in your last link. It has the same stand but came with an LED ring light and a 0.5X Barlow lens. The ring light isn't quite bright enough at maximum magnification but I never use the max. The working distance with the 0.5 Barlow lens is about 8". There's plenty of room to get a soldering iron under it.

author: baElectronic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2013, 10:39:57 am
content: Quote from: TerminalJack505 on February 16, 2013, 10:27:11 amHmm, it sounds like it would be well over $300 for this setup. I'm thinking that I may go for one of the cheaper models for now, or I can do without the Barlow lens and LED ring for a bit. Tough choice.

author: lgbeno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2013, 02:07:20 pm
content: I just bought a Nikon smz-1 microscope with a fiber optic light source for $250 plus $30 shipping, I thought that it was a pretty sweet deal. I started out in the same boat as you but the problem was that the cost of shipping the boom stand is so much because they are so heavy. Most people charge $50 for that. In the end though, you get what you pay for so what's an extra $80? Good luck!

author: baElectronic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2013, 04:03:07 pm
content: Quote from: lgbeno on February 16, 2013, 02:07:20 pmYeah, I had a chance to sleep on it. Although I didn't want to spend that much for a scope, I'm leaning towards buying the last one I listed, including the Barlow lens. It appears to be the more professional and versatile scope of the four. I can add other things like a camera and LED lighting later.

author: lgbeno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2013, 06:53:18 pm
content: Smart choice, currently I don't have a Barlow on mine but I want to get one. From some of the people that I've talked with, they say that .5x might be a little extreme and recommend a .7x because it is better for ergonomics and work area. I don't know what to say more than that.I still think that a fiber optic light is going to be better that any led light, it allows you more light without the bulky light ring, probably why they are pretty expensive though. If you watch eBay for a few weeks, you'll see scopes listed by people who don't really know their real worth, they usually have bad pictures and descriptions but then you can swoop in with a low bid and grab it. It's poor marketing working in your favor...Good luck.

author: baElectronic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2013, 08:20:26 pm
content: Quote from: lgbeno on February 16, 2013, 06:53:18 pmGreat. Thanks for the tips. I have an immediate need for a microscope, so I'll have to make a decision by Monday.

author: mazurov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2013, 01:49:22 am
content: Quote from: baElectronic on February 16, 2013, 10:11:59 amI don't. Here you can see my setup in action ->https://plus.google.com/u/0/114645657478782700234/posts/C9ryS3Jx8mP

author: baElectronic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2013, 06:24:43 am
content: Quote from: mazurov on February 17, 2013, 01:49:22 amNice! Thanks for the pictures. I must admit that this is all a bit overwhelming - way too many choices. Would you consider buying a trinocular scope if you had to do it over again? I was thinking that I might want to have the flexibility to add a camera later:http://www.amscope.com/Stereo-BoomStand-4.html

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2013, 06:59:04 pm
content: Spend the $40.00 now if you can. A thread on my experiencehereYou may want to consider zoom also.

author: baElectronic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2013, 07:08:39 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on February 17, 2013, 06:59:04 pmOk. I like your setup. So, I've narrowed my choices down to a trinocular scope. I was considering this one, since the working distance is 8". I'm not sure that I'd ever need anything greater than 30x. Also, I'm not sure if I want to shell out the money for a zoom scope right now:http://store.amscope.com/sw-3t13x.html

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2013, 07:27:01 pm
content: AFIK the 5X and 15X will have the 8" working distance because the 0,5 barlow is mounted. The 5X to 15X change is with a little slide rod on the left side of the head. To get the 10X and 30X you will remove the 0.5 barlow which will make the working distance now 4" which is still not too bad and the 10 to 30 change will be with the slide rod again. In real life if you are doing a lot of work with the scope this will be a PITA. For me, having zoom and being able to pick the perfect mag for the job at hand is not a luxury, it is a must.You should talk to Amscope to verify the above. They will honor thier ebay pricing and free shipping(when buying direct) if you ask them. If you intend to try to work under the scope using the eyepieces while videoing you need to ask if that is possible on this model. some scopes blank one or both eyepieces totaly while set for camera. If you didnt read my text on the thread i linked above you should, it discusses this topic.

author: kripton2035
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2013, 07:50:50 pm
content: I've got the first on your list for Christmas and I'm quite happy with it, althought I havent greatly used it for now.the 20x is ok for smd, I dont see why the other propose 40x I dont see when you can use that magnify.the working distance is quite ok, but I must be very straight on my chair. I plan to buy a chair that I can move up and downbut with it you have plenty of room to manipulate...at last, the light could be brighter, but I have quite a lot of light on the desk so it helps.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2013, 08:34:05 pm
content: IMHO 20x or 40x is way too much. I have used a Mantis a lot and based on my experience with that machine 8x is already too much. 6x would be optimal. You also need an overview on the work piece. Unfortunately I no longer have access to the Mantis so I bought a magnifier lamp (8 dioptre) which is a bit wobbly but works reasonably. I have been looking for a stereo microscope but have not been able to find one with low magnification for a reasonable price.

author: baElectronic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2013, 10:58:39 pm
content: Well, I ended up completely blowing my budget out of the waterhttp://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=200596773862&index=1&nav=SEARCH&nid=99490970459

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2013, 11:07:04 pm
content: That is the same unit I showed in my thread I linked above. You won't be sorry. The only negative is the only the right eyepiece is functional when the camera is engaged. That really isn't a big deal unless you planned to do a huge amount of videos.

author: baElectronic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2013, 11:59:07 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on February 18, 2013, 11:07:04 pmGreat! It seemed to be right in my sweet spot (my ever-expanding sweet spot) in terms of features and versatility.

author: kripton2035
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2013, 07:35:36 am
content: Quote from: baElectronic on February 18, 2013, 10:58:39 pmthis one seems really nice ...

author: baElectronic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2013, 08:01:27 am
content: Quote from: kripton2035 on February 19, 2013, 07:35:36 amYeah, I can't wait to get my hands on it.

author: kripton2035
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2013, 05:02:38 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on February 18, 2013, 11:07:04 pmso it's not really a trinocular ? it's a binocular with 3 entries ..?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2013, 06:25:05 pm
content: It's better than a binocular with the camera stuck in one eyepiece tube and using your wrong eye on the other eyepieceIt's worse than a simufocal trinocular where both eyepieces and the camera port are all active at the same timeIt's when the camera is active you can put your head in normal position on both eyepieces but you can only see thru the right eyepiece. A simple slide rod changes between one eyepiece and camera or both eyepieces. Camera can be adjusted to be in focus when the eyepieces are in focus.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2013, 12:15:28 am
content: I'm currently using an Iroscope, however also have Zeiss, Leica, Scienscope, Kyowa and optika available. The Leica is very special indeed and gives beautifully clear images. The Zeiss is also good. If the rest, even the worst is more than ok for my poor eyes to perform the finest of SMD soldering.I know I would struggle with a non zoom scope, and a 0.5x barlow lens is essential to provide adequate working distance. Things like 0603 resistors I'm soldering with minimal magnification, perhaps only 5x, however if I want a close look at a fine pitched IC then I want at least 20x magnification.

author: JuKu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2013, 08:53:04 am
content: Quote from: baElectronic on February 22, 2013, 10:14:23 pmNice! I have similar setup. Here is a prediction: On the first big board that you are going to work on you are going to turn the base around and find the need for a microscope stabilizing device. I have the basic model (a rock) since it looks nicer, but I could have gone for a high-tech unit (a brick) as well.

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2013, 12:13:56 pm
content: Quote from: baElectronic on February 18, 2013, 10:58:39 pmGood choice. I've been looking at upgrading for a long time and that's exactly the one I'm planning on upgrading to. Camera can come later if I need it.

author: roli_bark
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2013, 02:22:33 pm
content: Quote from: baElectronic on February 22, 2013, 10:14:23 pmSorry for the bump,but I'm interested to know whether the LED Power unit (the little black box with some buttons on it) is capable of handling 240v ?

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2013, 02:32:05 pm
content: Quote from: roli_bark on December 30, 2013, 02:22:33 pmI have the LED-144A with the buttons for the dimmer and turning sections on and off. It states on the bottom it's for 110-240V, 50-60HZ.http://www.amscope.com/led-144a.html

author: Carrington
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2013, 03:44:21 pm
content: You've seen this:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/fs-new-1080p-usb-microscope-for-easy-smt-soldering/

author: roli_bark
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2013, 04:52:56 pm
content: Quote from: SLJ on December 30, 2013, 02:32:05 pmNice, Thanks. Looks to me that the boom-less is a better choice if handling large boards isn't required.Hence, one may save ~50 Lbs on weight and shipping costs.

author: Lunasix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2013, 06:20:04 pm
content: I think a binocular is important for a 3D view when we must operate with a solder iron for example. Try to solder while closing 1 eye : not so easy. So, I'm not convinced by USB camera.Large vision size is also important, it's better if you can see all of your tqfp as only 4 pins. Magnification around 9x is sufficient.I have an Olympus SZ30 I really like. Time to time I use a Leica GZ4, quite similar but I prefer the Olympus : more space under the Olympus for same magnification (distance and size of lens support).