can you reanodize alumium to fill patches? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2024, 07:30:19 am
content: I got a expensive flashlight cheap that was really messed up. It took about 5 hours with a file, a carbide scraper, 1/16th punch and lapping pastes (valve grinding compound, 400 grit diamond and simchrome) to restore the thread to a condition that lets it thread on without destroying the diodes again, maybe with the help of a strip of teflon.There is alot of aluminum patches now that are exposed.Can I try to anodize and dye it, or will it look like shit? Right now I have a plan to use aluminum black from birchwood casey on it and wax it after... but I would be open to trying to anodize it, if it can match the finish.I think someone must have tried to fend off a Janus IV Horta with it

author: DiodeDipShit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2024, 04:05:44 pm
content: The old flashlights are not worth Your efforts. By a Fenix, it will be the only use.Also buy a thread file set and some AeroKroil and a wire wheel.To re-anodize correctly, You have to strip the whole surface. Those home kits never match.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2024, 05:02:50 pm
content: It’s not old, it’s a new fenix light

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2024, 06:06:42 pm
content: I suspect you'll be disappointed with the Birchwood Casey product, it never seems to give an even coat and the finish is not like anodising. It's a very matt finish (almost like soot from a candle flame) that gets marked quite easily. Ok for touching up small scratches.

author: DiodeDipShit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2024, 08:03:11 pm
content: I was thinking MagLite. Which were costly in the past. Your flashlight became old as soon as the past owner abused it.MikerJ is right. Your better off touching it up with a thin art brush and Testers model paint.If it works good now, only use it in the dark and the unsightliness goes away.....

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2024, 09:15:34 pm
content: I dunno I watched two reviews and I am suspicious they did not follow instructions.Because I messed with super blue alot and just dipping it sometimes makes weird stuff happen, and people also never clean the work piece properly.Like wiping it a few times with a cotton swab is not enough, I figured this out with alodine. It needs degreasing in ultrasonic + anhydrous and deionized water rinse and then careful application.I actually got some damn good looking pliers from using super blue... but it takes a while to do it 'by the book'.I guess I can try epoxy spraypaint which looks kinda like that (black) applied with a small brush from a painters tray if a test aluminum black patch does not work.. maybe I can try to spot alodine it before painting too. I been wanting to get into that prekote or whatever alodine replacement they have BTW, it looks safer and more durable. some kind of poly-glycerine or something. But its all based on some very... nice sounding corporate literature and a few forum posts about prekote...http://pantheonchemical.com/prekote-surface-pretreatment/http://pantheonchemical.com/st-1-surface-pretreatment/I also think people try to use steel wool for application and it DEPLETES the chemical very quickly. If you use it you need to apply rinse and then buff and repeat... i think I seen people try to combine this step and then they end up putting depleted solution on the work piece.And if you have a working old maglite, that belongs in goverment research for sustainable infrastructure because they usually are all broken... that is one special flashlightOnly problem with paint is that it will probobly be raised if I use a primer and paint. The aluminum black should be flush like the anodizing