Siglent SPD3303X(-E) calibration FW1.01.01.02.07R2 - best practice - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: BreakingOhmsLaw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2021, 12:21:29 am
content: [Nov.11,2023 Updated telnet information]Hello everybody,I recently acquired a Siglent 3303X-E, hacked it to 1mV/mA resolution as per the known method.The calibration on channel 1 was a bit off, so i tried the calibration in the service manual:https://siglentna.com/wp-content/uploads/dlm_uploads/2019/08/SPD3303C-Service-Mannual.pdfHowever, it does not work as stated in the manual, the procedures in the manual are flawed. I always ended up with either the displayed voltage or the actual voltage about 5% off. After much trial and error, here are the correct procedures that ended up getting all values extremely accurate. I hope this saves some of you of going down that rabbit hole.Some side notes:- Youcannot use EasyPowerto send the SCPI commands. It seems to (intentionally?) botch the calibration commands. The best way is to use a telnet client (likehttps://putty.org/) to establish a telnet connection to port 5025. Or you can use NI VISA MAX instead. If you do, you must use "Write" in the NI VISAVisa Test Panel, not "Query".- If the unit beeps, it did not accept the calibration command. Check your input. (Use a period, not a comma in the voltage value.)- I got slightly more accurate results when doing the voltage calibration with a 100mA load rather than open load. It seems to me they are not tapping the sense lines close to the binding posts.- Check the box atConfiguration | I/O Settings | Enable termination characterand select "Line Feed \n".Update: not necessary- you need to restart communication after the power cyclesFollow the procedures closely.Display voltage calibrationFirst, clear the voltage calibration values for the channel you want to calibrate:Channel 1:*CALCLS 0*CALCLS 1Channel 2:*CALCLS 4*CALCLS 5Store with*CALST...andpower cycle the unit.Edit: Some users report this is not necessary.Now, hook up the unit to a good multimeter and set the voltage to 1V output.Both displayed and output voltage should be wrong. Measure the output value with your multimeter.Set the calibration point 1:CALibration:VOLTage ch1,1,<measured voltage>orch2if you are calibrating CH2Next, set the unit to 25V output and set calibration point 2:CALibration:VOLTage ch1,2,<measured voltage>orch2if you are calibrating CH2That completes the calibration, but: the displayed value will still bewrong. Don't panic! You now need to change the output value to any other voltage, only then will it update the display using the new calibration value.This had me chasing rabbits for 2 hours.Save with*CALST...and enjoy your calibrated PSU.Current display:Clear old calibration first:*CALCLS 3for CH1*CALCLS 7for CH2*CALSTPower cycle the unitEdit: Some users report this is not necessary.Set PSU channel to 10V, 3A.Connect to an electronic load and set it to 100mA constant current. Check actual current with multimeter and enter into the command below:CALibration:CURRent ch1,1,<measured current value>orch2for CH2Change the electronic load to 2.5A constant current. Again, actual current with multimeter and enter into the command below:CALibration:CURRent ch1,2,<measured current value>orch2for CH2Store calibration with*CALSTMy unit had <0,5mA accuracy after this.Current limit calibration:The calibration procedure in the manual is flawed and will screw up the CC badly.Do this instead:*CALCLS 2for CH1*CALCLS 6for CH2*CALSTPower cycle the unitSet the electronic load to 3A constant current.Set the channel to 10V, 500mA (NOT100mA as written in the service manual!)CALibration:CURRent ch1,3,<measured current value>orch2for CH2Not set the crrent limit of the channel tp 2.5ACALibration:CURRent ch1,4,<measured current value>orch2for CH2Now set the current limit of the channel to 2.4A. This updates the CC and actual current should be very close to 2.4A.Store calibration with*CALSTThe CC should now be within 0,5mA accuracy.Please post results if you did this.

author: jeraymond
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2021, 08:52:33 pm
content: Hi, thanks for this info. I was following the guide and using 100mA for the current calibration and it was not working at all. Using 500mA as you suggested worked great!Quote from: BreakingOhmsLaw on November 18, 2021, 12:21:29 amHere I presume you mean 'Nowset the current...'. I also presume you meant 2.5A throughout not both 2.5A and 2.4A.When I did my cal, I would toggle the channel output on/off after *CALCLS and to see the new calibration parameter in use. I didn't have to power cycle the device.

author: BreakingOhmsLaw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2021, 08:31:33 am
content: Quote from: jeraymond on November 29, 2021, 08:52:33 pmThanks, corrected "Not" to "Now".Changing the current limit to 2.4A is only done to update the setting. You could also change it and go back to 2.5.

author: HamDancer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2022, 11:29:38 pm
content: I did this with my SPD3303X-E upgraded to SPD3303X and it worked great! Thanks so much for putting this together. Despite multiple attempts I didn't quite get 0.5mV/mA accuracy across the entire range, but I definitely got 1mV/mA, and usually much better.

author: eloso
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2022, 07:34:15 pm
content: Hi,I was more or less happy with my SPD3303X-E and didn't feel the need for additional resolution on voltage, but getting the additional resolution on current has finally proved a draw for me and I upgraded following the usual instructions (thanks everyone involved!).Channel 2 was more or less spot-on but channel 1 was out by more than 10mV from the setpoint reading to the displayed reading of output which more or less agreed with the SDM3055 reading of the output. The current was bang-on on both channels.I followed the calibration procedure just for voltage on Channel 1 and it worked fine the third time. The first twice I can't see that I did anything differently and the commands seemed to be accepted (no beeping) but whenever I went back to the 1V setting I was 200mV out. When it worked the third time I was bemused because I genuinely couln't see what I had done differently and in fact felt a bit foolish for doing something a third time when the first twice had not worked.So it's a mystery. There will be an answer - there has to be a reason - but I think we will never know it.Anyway, I have quit while I am ahead - the instrument seems spot on now although I can't comment on any longer term drift or cycling. Its certainly good enough for my purposes as a power supply and even if the absolute accuracy drifts after a while, the resolution is going to be very useful to have just to see short tem relative change in current in the region of mA.Thanks for providing the extra info here. I guess knowing that others had made this work is what made me perservere. That's why I am posting my own report - it doesn't add anything other than saying, yes, itcanwork so don't be dejected if it doesn't at first. Or at second....RegardsEloso

author: doppelgrau
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2022, 10:03:05 pm
content: Quote from: BreakingOhmsLaw on November 18, 2021, 12:21:29 amAlso telnet on port 5025 didn't work for me. Every *CALST resulted in freezing the power supply (became completely unresponsive).But following it to the letter using my "windows backup device" helped.Quote from: BreakingOhmsLaw on November 18, 2021, 12:21:29 amDone, went really well.

author: KG7AMV
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2022, 10:58:33 pm
content: There was a guy on a facebook group or Instagram that was in process of writing a Labview (Community Edition) GUI for Calibration. I Cannot find him or what group he was in but I thought it was a good idea and so did a few others. Another guy made some interesting stuff also.

author: Martin_B
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 27, 2023, 06:11:19 pm
content: Thanks very much!This works very well.The mean thing is that the EasyPower.exe allows deleting the values, but not setting the new values.I almost despaired until I found this thread.The displayed and actual (V) values are now accurate to the mV on both channels.I will take care of the calibration of the current values, but I need an electronic load...

author: JOFlaherty
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2023, 04:20:50 am
content: Should the thread title reference SPD3303, rather than SDS3303?

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2023, 02:40:12 am
content: Yeah it's SPD3303X for the 1mV/1mA version, and -E for the 10mV/10mA version. I hacked mine, and it's about 5 years old. And for very light loads, anyways, the voltage accuracy is doing great. I should do a few simple tests and write it down, see if it changes in a year. I don't use it all the time, so it should age slowing.

author: XerXes777
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2023, 02:18:34 pm
content: Thanks for this !!!But i have a problem.The Unit peeps after send a command like CALibration:VOLTage ch1,1,0.8591.I have to say, that i delete all my calib dataAnd i dont have a backup.What could be the error?EDIT: I use putty and choose telnet as connection typ and this doesnt work.with NI MAX the commands are work.could this be a problem with the syntax? when i use putty and i use this CALibration:VOLTage\sch1,1,0.8596 with an \s than the beep is gone but it doesnt work too.

author: Bad_Driver
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2023, 04:33:36 pm
content: Today I went trough the process with some hickups but sucessful at the end. As always with Siglent gear I used Putty as terminal.I needed 3 or 4 attempts to accomplish a step. Reboot was not needed.My SPD accepts for the reference measurements only 3 digit behind the period!example: CAL:VOLT ch1,1,0.833With 4 digits it beeps.Thanks to BreakingOhmsLaw for his efforts!

author: Tjuurko
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2023, 04:35:29 am
content: With firmware version 1.01.01.02.07R2 it beeps (any number of signs after 0.).With firmware version 1.01.01.02.05, calibration commands are accepted without errors.My calibration commands:CAL:VOLT CH1,1,0.8195CAL:VOLT CH1,2,25.5040CAL:VOLT CH2,1,0.8060CAL:VOLT CH2,2,25.50154 years ago they were:CAL:VOLT CH1,1,0.82188CAL:VOLT CH1,2,25.5025CAL:VOLT CH2,1,0.80669CAL:VOLT CH2,2,25.4942

author: slugrustle
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2024, 07:20:22 pm
content: Does anyone know if this procedure works for the SPD3303C?I'm going to run performance verification shortly, and hopefully my unit doesn't need adjustment. I'm just curious how to perform the adjustment if needed, and whether anyone has tried. A little worried about erasing calibration info as the first step in case the subsequent steps aren't the same for the SPD3303C.EDIT: Performance verification passed just fine. Still would like to know how to run the adjustment.

author: sy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2024, 10:43:45 am
content: Quote from: BreakingOhmsLaw on November 18, 2021, 12:21:29 amHello, I have just hacked my X-E and wish to calibrate my unit. I new to this, I was wondering why we need an electronic load and if we can just use the multimeter to measure current output? If not, what kind of electronic load did you use?

author: Mortymore
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2024, 12:28:17 pm
content: If the PSU is new, and you don't have a good multimeter and an eletronic Load, my suggestion is that you shouldn't be concern with the calibration for now, unless your PSU seems to be far off.Let the PSU age a few months.With only a multimeter (5.5 digits would be good) you can calibrate the voltage, and let alone the current calibration.You will need an electronic load to draw the current to be set from the PSU, and then you can calibrate it.I only calibrate my hacked PSU, 2 or 3 months after buying and using an SDL1020X-E load.The calibration process is no easy task, and you have to be patient. Let all the devices on for 1h or so, before start the calibration process, take your time, and let each adjusted value set for a few seconds, at least.

author: BreakingOhmsLaw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2024, 12:18:37 pm
content: Quote from: sy on February 09, 2024, 10:43:45 amYou could just hook up beefy load resistors and measure the resulting current with a multimeter, that will work just fine. An electronic load just makes this much more easy. I use a Siglent SDL1020X-E electronic load and run the current though a calibrated R&S HMC8012 benchtop multimeter for added accuracy.

author: martin1959
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2024, 05:57:51 am
content: Yesterday I had problems trying to calibrate the Current Display values of my SPD3303X-E (updated to SPD3303X, FW 1.01.01.03.10, HW V6.1). Fortunately I was able to resolve it, so I describe the problem and the solution here.I first tried to enter the calibration commands using the "telnet" command line tool on my Linux computer. Until now never had a problem using this for SCPI commands or queries.telnet spd3303x-e 5025Trying 192.168.178.65... (your IP address may vary!!!)Connected to spd3303x-e.Escape character is '^]'.SYST:ERR?+0, No error*CALCLS 3*CALSTCAL:CURR CH1,1,0.100 (your value may vary!!!)SYST:ERR?-108,Parameter not allowed,CAL:CURR CH1,2,2.500 (your value may vary!!!)SYST:ERR?-108,Parameter not allowed,*CALST^]telnet> quitConnection closed.Now the Current Display was way off, e.g. showed ca. 111 mA with nothing connected at the output.I tried again several times, but without luck.It seems that the power supply accepts the commands to erase the calibration but does not accept the commands to enter the new calibration data - at least when using the "telnet" tool under Linux. So I was left with a power supply with huge error in output Current Display.After an hour of despair, I decided to repeat the same procedure, but now using the "Putty" software on MS Windows OS (configured for proper hostname or IP address and port 5025). Fortunately it worked fine this time.I understand that "Putty" does not require the NI/VISA software. So in case "Putty" does not work it is most likely not related to NI/VISA.But you do need the NI/VISA software for using Siglent's EasyPower software, e.g. for installing software updates.I have no explanation why the power supply is so picky or about fine differences between "telnet" and "Putty". But I am glad that it finally worked, thanks to this forum.I tried only to calibrate the Current Display. I found the existing Voltage and Current Limit calibration good enough.Note that I allowed the equipment (Power Supply, DMM, Electronic Load) to warm up ca. 1 hour before performing the calibration. After calibration, the cold power supply initially shows 3 or 4 mA output current with nothing connected. This quickly reduces to 2 mA, and after 1 hour warm-up to 0 mA.

author: sy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2024, 11:59:26 pm
content: I was searching for DC electronic loads and came across this device I found on aliexpress. I have had a look at the SDL1020X-E mentioned earlier, but I'm on a budget and don't think I'll ever be using this instrument again besides wanting to calibrate my power supply for current.I am not sure if these things are suitable to calibrate the SPD3303x(-e) as some guy on the youtubes said it was moreso geared towards testing batteries? I was wondering if anyone else had experience using one of these and if they are reliable enough? I've had a look online but can't find much instruction on how to use it

author: orzel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2024, 03:35:04 pm
content: Quote from: sy on March 11, 2024, 11:59:26 pmThere's a thread about it. Basically, they ARE battery testers, can be used as electronic loads (I do and i'm happy, but my needs are very limited). The voltage sensor is surprisingly accurate for such a cheap gear. The only drawback is that the FET (the big chip dissipating heat under the heatsink) is often weak, either a bad component (fake) or badly driven or wrongly mounted or whatever. Lot of people burnt them. ymmv. I've used mine (rated for 180W) up to 150W for several minutes, and never had any problem. The fan started (which is rare in my tests) and temperature rose, but not so much.

author: Mortymore
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2024, 07:13:00 pm
content: Quote from: sy on March 11, 2024, 11:59:26 pmI have one Atorch DL24 and after connecting this Load to 3 linear PSUs in CC mode, I have to say that the load is not very stable. It was set to draw 500mA, but it was constantly adjusting the current, usually jumping between 497mA and 503mA.For a budget solution I'd rather go for the method of the beefy load resistors suggested by BreakingOhmsLaw, on par with a good ampmeter and voltmeter. As long as you can measure accurately the load current, a resistor would be more stable.

author: rolfdegen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2024, 05:00:56 pm
content: Hello friends of electronics and technologyI have had a Siglent SPD3303X-E for three years and with your help I was able to calibrate the power supply today. I used EasyPower for the calibration. It didn't work with PuTTY.Thank you very much for your help here in the forum

author: rolfdegen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2024, 07:49:37 pm
content: Hallo FriendsI have an SPD3303X-E with firmware on SPD3303X. Today I did a firmware update to SPD3303X firmware - 1.01.01.02.07R2 (release date 02.05.21).Worked well with no errors.I noticed that shortly after powering on and the screen logo appears, the relays click once. I didn't have that in the old firmware. Is that normalVideo:https://youtu.be/zkDXdXI9CcU

author: blurpy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2024, 06:24:27 pm
content: Quote from: rolfdegen on April 02, 2024, 07:49:37 pmMine does exactly the same. Guessing it's how it is supposed to work. I don't remember how it was with older firmware or if it changed.

author: rolfdegen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2024, 11:08:29 am
content: Thanks for your information

author: jgartrel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 07, 2024, 04:20:41 pm
content: Quote from: BreakingOhmsLaw on November 18, 2021, 12:21:29 amWith firmware version 1.01.01.02.07R2, I too had issues on MacOS using 'telnet' to connect to the device. Commands such as '*CALCLS 0' and '*IDN?' would work, but 'CALibration:VOLTage ch1,1,0.8613' would fail with a beep.The calibration command would be accepted in firmware version 1.01.01.02.05, but the command '*CALST' (to store the new values) would fail.I did have success using a Windows box with NI-MAX v5.4.1, but I was hoping for something that could be run without needing NI-MAX.What eventually worked for me was to use 'netcat' instead of 'telnet' on MacOS. Following BreakingOhmsLaw recipe above, using the following sequence of commands from the Terminal in MacOS, I was able to successfully calibrate the device:Code:$ printf 'CALibration:VOLTage ch1,1,0.8613\n' | nc -w 5 192.168.X.X 5025$ printf 'CALibration:VOLTage ch1,2,25.740\n' | nc -w 5 192.168.X.X 5025$ printf '*CALST\n' | nc -w 5 192.168.X.X 5025$ printf '*IDN?\n' | nc -w 5 192.168.X.X 5025Siglent Technologies,SPD3303X,XXXXXXXXXXX,1.01.01.02.07R2,V3.0When looking at what 'telnet' believes it is sending vs what 'netcat' believes it is sending, they look identical with 0x0a line terminations. However, there must be more that I am missing here.UPDATE: After a packet capture, it is apparent that 'telnet' is actually replacing the newline with CRLF behind the scenes. Toggling CRLF on/off in 'telnet' has no effect (CRLF is still sent).However, after configuring 'telnet' to 'set outbinary' via an escape command, the proper 0x0a line termination is sent and 'telnet' is usable.This may also be a source of many other terminal programs also failing to send a properly formatted calibration command that the SPD3303X(-E) does not reject.Thank you to BreakingOhmsLaw for all the hard work on putting this post together! I hope this additional info helps others on their journey.

author: rolfdegen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2024, 08:42:15 pm
content: Houston, we have a problem!Problem with new Firmware SPD3303X_V1.01.01.02.07R2.ADSAfter a while (> 1 hour) the power supply switches off the active channelMy firmware vesion: SPD3303X_V1.01.01.02.07R2.ADS

author: BreakingOhmsLaw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2024, 11:58:13 am
content: Quote from: rolfdegen on April 17, 2024, 08:42:15 pmHow old is your unit? The early version had a problem with a bridge rectifier overheating that was the cause for it switching off after some time.

author: rolfdegen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2024, 07:06:58 pm
content: This is my Power Supply SPD3303X-E with hack for higher resulution. With the old firmware I had no problems with switching off

author: BreakingOhmsLaw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 02:37:45 pm
content: Hardware version 3.0 has that rectifier bug.If it's still under warranty, revert to old FW and have it repaired.

author: orzel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 02:53:49 pm
content: Quote from: BreakingOhmsLaw on April 19, 2024, 02:37:45 pmMine is version 3.0 as well, but i never had any problem.Do you happen to know where we can have more information about this 'rectifier bug' ? Is that something easy to fix by ourselves ?

author: rolfdegen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 02:54:40 pm
content: The bug does not occur in the old firmware 1.01.01.02.05. The voltage and current are very stable. Fan speed is normal.Video Siglent SPD3303X, hot bridge, hot regulators, modification for long life timehttps://youtu.be/nvGxl44cNnoHardware hotspot:https://youtu.be/mdOauVzY9OU?t=1651I think the best way is a small fan for chip cooling

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 08:30:36 pm
content: Quote from: orzel on April 19, 2024, 02:53:49 pmEasy fix for any capable hobbyist...although the soldering might be challenging for those not experienced in lead free solder rework.This will provide guidance on the rectifier bridge failures and fixes:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/siglent-spd3303x-e-reboot-problem/

author: orzel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 09:20:47 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on April 19, 2024, 08:30:36 pmAh, indeed, doesn't seem difficult. I might even have a working version despite "3.0" being mentionned in the the about window.I'm not a real "dave's fan", i haven't opened it yetI haven't even hacked it, i don't have the need for added precision, and it worked so well so far... "if it ain't broken, don't fix it"

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 09:27:42 pm
content: Quote from: orzel on April 19, 2024, 09:20:47 pm100%AFAIK Siglent got a bad batch of those tiny 2A circular bridges and then we started having the odd failure so they they changed the PCB layout to accommodate a more robust bridge, 4A IIRC.

author: rolfdegen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2024, 02:58:56 pm
content: I'm back to the old firmware and have no failures. The question remains, why does the output channel in the new firmware turn off the output channel after a while? I tested with load (12V/50mA) on CH2 and tested without load. It switches off on all attempts.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2024, 08:36:21 pm
content: Quote from: rolfdegen on April 20, 2024, 02:58:56 pmJust looked back through your posts and only suggestion is the newer FW is placing more demands on the control PCB PSU and its old style rectifier bridge.In your position I would swap it out for an uprated bridge modification.The last one I did I drilled and tapped the main heatsink and ran a 4 wire AC/DC loom to it from the front panel PCB.

author: rolfdegen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2024, 05:01:52 pm
content: Hallo electronic friends..This bridge rectifier 2W06 from SEPRI is installed in my SPD3303X-E. The current temperature in the open housing is 41 °C after half an hour.Siglent SPD3303X-E Frontpanel2W06 Datasheet

author: rolfdegen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2024, 07:34:28 pm
content: I have now closed the case. After three hours of operation without load, the bridge rectifier has a temperature of approx. 50°C. No heat points. The temperature is in the green range

author: rolfdegen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2024, 09:10:20 pm
content: A TL431C ensures good stability.SPD3303X-E Front PCBTL431C Datasheet

author: Wade2019
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2024, 12:47:30 pm
content: I have an SDP3303D and I use the statement CALibration: VOLTAGE ch1,1,0.8613. The beep of the buzzer does not work. I use the following statement: CALibration: VOLTAGE ch1,1,0.8613 CAL：VOLT ch1,1,0.833 No effect, who can help me?

author: BreakingOhmsLaw
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2024, 11:30:26 am
content: Quote from: Wade2019 on May 27, 2024, 12:47:30 pmLXI is case sensitive AFAIK. Maybe it trips on VOLTAGE instead of VOLTage Try:CALibration:VOLTage ch1,1,0.8613

author: Wade2019
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2024, 06:56:10 am
content: I tested SCPI:CAL：VOLT ch1,1,0.833 ERROR The beep of the buzzerCAL：VOLT ch1,1,0.83311 ERROR The beep of the buzzerCALibration：VOLTage ch1,1,0.8613 ERROR The beep of the buzzerCALibration：VOLTage ch1,1,0.861 ERROR The beep of the buzzerI am using the software NI MAX and my power supply is SPD-3303D Seeking everyone's help

author: SuperD
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 29, 2024, 11:53:45 am
content: This is for anyone getting the beep every time they send the voltage calibration command. I have hardware V3.0, and downgrading to firmware version 1.01.01.02.05 is what fixed this for me. .07R2 doesn't do anything I need, so I am keeping it here.I had no issues setting 4 decimal positions like below. I think its all firmware related. I guess never trust an "R" or "B" in the firmware number.Quote from: Tjuurko on December 08, 2023, 04:35:29 am

author: sy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2024, 08:58:49 am
content: Quote from: Mortymore on March 12, 2024, 07:13:00 pmWhat kind of "beefy" resistors would I be looking at purchasing for testing the DC current?What wattage it needs to be able to handle? And what tolerances should I be looking at?

author: Mortymore
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2024, 10:36:33 am
content: Worst case scenario: 32V * 3A = 96W, so an 100W resistor will do.But, but for current calibration one will need to set for 10V and 3A, I believe, so we have, 30W and 3.33Ohm.3 paralleled 10Ohm resistors will make a 3.33Ohm resistor, and wattage of each can be even lower.In the safe side I'd use 50W resistors, and would not rely on their accuracy, because a good a multimeter is what's important.If, for instance, one can't set exactly 2.500A, and 2.432A is what's being measured, then 2.432 is what should be set for calibration.Hope I'm not disregarding something.

author: sy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2024, 02:17:03 am
content: Quote from: Mortymore on June 20, 2024, 10:36:33 amThis is my first time calibrating and I want to make sure I got this right before making a purchase so please correct me if I am wrong.I'm going based of what you're saying, so if I had like 3 parallel resistors, the worst case would be:P=32V*1A=32W (per resistor)Then we add some tolerance to make sure the resistor is not operating at its maximum rating:So choose something like 50W.But then to get the resistance value, wouldn't I be instead doing:R=32V/1A=32Ohms (per resistor)This resistance would limit the current through each branch of the parallel network, while the wattage remains well above the worst case.Also I'm not sure what types of resistors would be good. I've had a look at some wire wound ones but I've seen them go for like $20 a piece which is absolutely ridiculous!And also, when I am testing this current, do I need to hook the load up and keep it running for an hour to stabilise, or is it leaving the power supply on for an hour before connecting the load?TIA!Edit:Taking another look, I've found some of these $7 resistors. Would they be good enough to use for this prupose?https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/YAGEO/AHA50AJB-30R?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIP1s4nuCZf1cZfhdKdBp1aw%3D

author: Mortymore
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2024, 08:59:43 am
content: From OP...Quote from: BreakingOhmsLaw on November 18, 2021, 12:21:29 amFrom this description, for current calibration you will need to set the PSU for 10v, 3 A (current limit). And you will also need to draw 2.5A.3 // 10 Ohm = 3.33 Ohm => 10V / 3.33 Ohm = 3A => P = V^2/R = 10^2/3.33 = 30W2 // 8 Ohm = 4 Ohm => 10V / 4 Ohm = 2.5 A => P = 10^2/4 = 25WAnd so on, for any given current you might need for calibration.I built some dummy loads with power resistors and repurpose old CPU coolers and PSU cases. The one in the image attached has only 2x 8Ohm 100W resistors to load audio amplifiers for testing/repairing/adjusting. With a setup of a few power resistors, several resistance values can be achieved by different resistor associations in series or parallel, and that's handy for many purposes.I didn't find trivial to calibrate the SPD3303, and only did it fully when I had a 5.5 digit multimeter and an SDL1020 available.But with care, I think with power resistors as load, and given an hour to set everything, the calibration can be done.I like the DL24 to test batteries and such... but I wouldn't trust it to calibrate this PSUEDIT: Maybe this thread about dummy loads could be of interest:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/dummy-load-for-bench-power-supply-resistors/

author: lugamodder
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 16, 2024, 05:40:59 pm
content: Quote from: Wade2019 on May 29, 2024, 06:56:10 amHave you managed to solve the calibration problem? I also have SPD3303D fw 1.01.01.06R2 , and it doesn't accept the "CALibration：VOLTage" commands."

author: SuperD
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 14, 2024, 12:38:12 am
content: I am right there with you. I calibrated once before and it was a bit of experimenting before I got it. I have v3 hardware and needed to use "SPD3303X_1.01.01.02.05" firmware and I was able to send the commands using "EasyPower_1.01.01.18".I recently got a more accurate benchtop meter and went to calibrate mine again. But now I am stuck on the "*CALCLS #" cleared values permanently. I can send the power supply values in Putty or EasyPower, but the voltage on my SPD3303X will not adjust after the new values are set. If I go back to the "*CALCLS #" values, it's adjustable on the whole range, but the display numbers are way off.Maybe a caution to users, I don't know if this would have prevented it. But if you don't have to reboot after *CALCLS, then you may not need to send *CALST after clearing either. *CALST is just to store permanently. But, if you don't have to reboot after the *CALCLS, and all you have to do is change the voltage to get the cleared values. *CALST may be an unnecessary risk if you get stuck not being able to write new values.My theory here is, if you *CALCLS,then just change the voltage on the power supply, don't just *CALST and make the cleared values permanent. If you find you can't write in new numbers, just reboot the power supply and at worst you might be back to where you started on the factory calibration. Way better than the uncalibrated values. Worth a shot if you are just starting out.As for me, what I think happened in my case is that I saved my cal values in an Excel sheet with my voltage table. When I copied the cell, I think I copied a crlf at the end. I think that may have messed up the calibration values stored in the PS somewhere. I didn't catch the cursor dropping 1 line until I tried pasting into Putty. By then I already had sent the command in EasyPower and NI MAX.Has anyone dug any deeper into the config table? Thinking I need a backup of a good file. Or possibly to go in and edit the config file somehow, possibly removing the crlf. Jtag maybe? Reverting firmware to all versions I have, does not fix mine.I am quite sure it's writing. I just can't adjust voltage after I set the measured voltages. When I do the power supply is stuck on the last saved voltage I set, even after a reboot. To get it back to "somewhat functional" (but very off calibration). I need to send the *CALCLS commands, and then *CALST. Now my 1 volt is really .84. Depressing.. But, my fault too.My new numbers that I want to set, in case someone notices a mistake - Keysight 34465ACAL:VOLT CH1,1,0.840CAL:VOLT CH1,2,25.680CAL:VOLT ch2,1,0.875CAL:VOLT ch2,2,25.668My numbers the first time - Fluke 87IIICAL:VOLT CH1,1,0.8401CAL:VOLT CH1,2,25.67CAL:VOLT CH2,1,0.855CAL:VOLT CH2,2,25.75

author: yanew2
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 11, 2025, 08:06:27 pm
content: HelloJust to confirm a few things about the calibration.It was successful with Windows 10 and EasyPower 1.01.01.16 via USB.PS is HW 3.0With firmware 02.07R2 it didn't work and I had to downgrade to 02.05.And it accepts 4 digits after the decimal point (CALibration: VOLTage ch1,1,0.8636).The Voltage calibration happened immediately and the result is up to 1 mV deviation.But with the current calibration I had a lot of problems and specifically with the Current display.At the beginning of the post it says about the calibration ofCurrent displaythat the two calibration points are 0.100mA and 2.5A, but the readings were totally out of range.After many attempts there was no change and finally I decided to try with the two points which are for theCurrent Limit0.500mA and 2.5Aand immediately everything became accurate.So I can confirm that the calibration points for the current are:Current display- 0.500mA and 2.5A (Not 0.100mA)Current limit- 0.500mA and 2.5AAfter calibration the deviation was up to 1mA.Finally I upgraded to 02.07R2 and everything was fine.