Anyone using Dynamask5000 soldermask dryfilm? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: asarangan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 29, 2014, 07:32:28 pm
content: I would like to hear from anyone using the dry film solder mask "Dynamask 5000".I've been using this product with some success, but I have some issues in the gaps between the etched traces. Since it is a dry film, it does not get onto the low lying etched areas, especially between closely spaced copper traces. During development, the developer is getting wicked into these gaps and wrinkles and swells the film in those areas. The copper areas are all fine. I tried planarizing the board with a potting epoxy and sanding it down, but it is still not planar enough - the developer is still getting wicked in some areas. Photo is of the problem area is attached. Any insights would be appreciated.

author: mamalala
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 29, 2014, 07:45:22 pm
content: You need to use a laminator. Get a cheap one used to laminate paper, but make sure that the rollers are heated. You probably need to modify it a bit to accomodate for the thick PCB, and make sure that it applies the pressure evenly.Apply the dry film to one edge of the PCB only, and don't peel back the cover foil completely. Feed the PCB with that edge into the laminator. While the machine takes in the PCB, peel back the cover film at the same speed.The general idea is to heat up the dry film, somewhat liquifying it in the process. The pressure from the heated roller will the squeeze it between the tracks. If you find air-bubbles after the first pass, poke a needle at them and press out the bubble with a finger. You may want to feed the board through the laminator a second time.After it's done, let it cool down and sit in a dark box or similar for at least 30 minutes. After that develop in a warm developer bath. After that you need to cure it, either under UV light or in an oven, for 15-30 minutes. (thats also explained in the instructions of how to use the film).If you don't have a laminator you can use a hot plate as well. Make a frame where the PCB fits in snuggly, mount that on the hot plate. Again, start with one edge of the PCB, and again, don't peel back the complete cover foil. Wrap some cloth around your finger, place the PCB with the film attached to one edge in the hot frame. Slowly rub on the film, always from the center to the outside edges. Also, peel back the cover foil slowly during that process. With a little practice this should also give nice results. The remaining process is the same (cooling off, letting it sit, develop, cure).Greetings,Chris

author: Zepnat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2014, 08:42:58 pm
content: Just a another thought here based on experience I had what looks like Exactly the same problem it would bubble just like yours between the tracks, the solution was to give it a longer exposure, seems like the tracks maybe reflects the uv light back and makes it cure faster than the dark areas. Another is the wrong developer that's too aggressive, the stuff I used years back was something like washing soda and you could leave it in as long as you wanted without any lifting. Good luck.