3D Printable VESA mount for DHO800/DHO900 Scopes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: jsobell
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2024, 09:25:19 am
content: I wanted a lift-on/off attachment for my scope so I could use it on a cheap monitor arm.This model lets the fan work, but allows you to remove the scope at any time, and adds very little to the scope itself.The model is athttps://www.printables.com/model/774496-lift-off-mount-for-vesa-monitor-standsIf you want to copy the design and improve it, feel free, but please let me know so I can also take advantages of any improvementsThe source for the design is athttps://cad.onshape.com/documents/3dc09744985afc9c56ff1af3/w/545eed0f625f9c776cd36fb7/e/d3e087d720a9671194901847?renderMode=0&uiState=65d5c0a5fe91e352df005e0eApologies for the sub-optimal Onshape design skills. I'm slowly improving.

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2024, 03:04:42 pm
content: Wouldn't it be quicker to make, and better for the airflow, to just have screws with spacer bushings in the four corners? Two countersunk screws in the bottom, and two protruding panhead screws on top, similar to what you have now, but without the connecting plate.You could still 3D-print the spacers, but they would be small parts. Or does the large perforated plate add functionality I am overlooking?

author: jsobell
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2024, 10:56:13 pm
content: Yes, I thought the same thing, but not all VESA mounts are the same, so I created a flat plate to give rigidity to the mount when the unit is hanging on it. Some have pretty thin 'X' shapes, and given that the bottom holes are not bolted I thought it better to spread the weight over the whole mount.If you have a simple post you get lateral force so the top pillars have to be reasonable wide, but the bottom ones would simply be pressing back.The mount only adds 6mm to the depth (or reduces the fan space by 6mm if you like), so I figured it was acceptable.Perhaps a boundary only, rather than a full plate, might work? That would keep everything rigid, require less plastic, and would print quickerThe plate itself was adapted from one I created with internally embedded Neodymium magnets, as I was considering using the plate as a magnetic mount for a battery pack, which I'll test once the one I ordered arrives. This would also have to be kept away from the fan, so a plate will be required for that.What do you think? I'm very open to ideas and suggestions.

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2024, 06:58:07 am
content: Ok, I see. There is significant torque (lateral force) on the upper two screws. Since the scope enclosure does not have much flat surface areaabovethose mounting points which could provide support, it makes sense to "anchor" the mount via the two screws in the bottom.Maybe a vertical "bridge" on either side would be sufficient, each connecting the upper and lower mounting point?

author: jsobell
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2024, 02:28:32 am
content: Well, I took what you said and applied a few additional ideas.I added two small protrusions where 75mm VESA holes are usually found, as these stop the scope being able to rotate and give it a little bit more stability.I made the four posts separate parts to make it easier to print (it halves the print time) and moved the tiny spacers for the front to be separate too so you can print different height ones or replacements.I definitely prefer this one, and I was thinking of adding some velcro strap points to attach the battery pack when it's not on the bracket.I'll upload it shortly.J.OnShape source:https://cad.onshape.com/documents/ebda5b0f12b24a3e5b59ee56/w/9b8962caedbdce725c7f94f7/e/1199dcf34f42d247a29dd8783D Model:https://www.printables.com/model/774496-lift-off-mount-for-vesa-monitor-stands

author: empeka
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2024, 02:43:51 am
content: this recovered space just screams for noctua nf-a9x14

author: jsobell
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2024, 04:09:36 am
content: Quote from: empeka on February 23, 2024, 02:43:51 amI know it looks that way. I gave this some thought, but there are three main issues:1. Why add more cooling? The stock fan keeps the temperature low enough, and adding an additional fan means opening the scope to disable the built-in one2. How would you power it? I had thought of an HDMI connector and taking a feed from the video port, but then issue 1 springs to mind in3. You would not have airflow when it's on a VESA mount. The whole point of this is to give space for air to enterI suspect that for point 1 it's because people are trying to reduce the noise. My fan was delivered faulty, so I replaced it with one I had in a drawer which turned out to be a 40mm model with ball-bearings. It required 2 minutes of modification to cut off the frame, but is very quiet and seems to work just as well as the stock one did.I think that finding a solution to mount a battery pack while still being VESA removable would be the next useful modification. What do you think?J.

author: empeka
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2024, 10:30:27 am
content: Quote from: jsobell on February 23, 2024, 04:09:36 amExactly! Let's get rid of this whiny little bastard and put there something decent.Could be powered from original fan connector (wire routed through one of hex holes). 8V is just right to keep fan rpm at reasonable level without pwm control.Quoteand that would be a problem.I hope that narrowing in center part of vesa mount would be enough to let 90mm fan suck some air in.If it's not, then maybe removing upper beam of the spacer would help without affecting overall riggidity.QuoteWhile designing external fan cover I had an idea to make it modular by leaving a gap between top and the bottom of screw spacer that would fit mounts for extra modules like probe holder or battery pack.Or a blind plug to keep things tight when no modules are used. (attached picture will probably explain it better than my poor English;)That idea never came to life, but maybe you'll find it useful;)

author: jsobell
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2024, 07:12:10 am
content: So I took what you suggested, and made a couple of additional changes.I haven't made it support a 10cm fan, as I'm unconvinced that it could be done tidily, and I've already found that replacing the existing one with a 40mm ball-bearing fan makes it very quiet and gives the same temperature reading as the OEM one.This mount has two embedded bar magnets (Amazon, 60x10x3mm) built into the mount during printing. These do nothing when mounting on the VESA stand, but let me mount my 40Ah battery pack via similar magnets stuck to it. I also added strap loops on each side so you can do things like tie the USB-C power cable as strain relief, or Velcro on the battery pack if you're concerned about it coming loose if swinging the scope around while dancing (or whatever odd things people do with their scopes)The only additional experiment I might try is fitting a mount for a USB-C socket so that the battery and/or external power can be plugged in there instead of the scope. I found one on AliExpress that looks applicable, but I'll see when it arrives:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004000171820.html

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2024, 04:51:15 pm
content: I like the "magnets embedded within the 3D print" idea as a general concept. It makes sure the magnets can't come loose, and covers them so the attraction is not too strong and the magnets don't get damaged upon contact.Does your slicer let you define stopping points during the print to let you insert the magnets, or do you manually interrupt printing at the right time?

author: jsobell
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2024, 10:27:43 pm
content: Yes, the slicer (I use OrcaSlicer) lets you preview the slices, then you can add a 'pause' at the lever you want to insert the magnet.I think most of them support this and it's just a case of working out where the option isYou do have to glue the magnets in when you do this, otherwise they tend to stick onto the extruder head as it passes over.I would also suggest only adding 0.4mm (two layers) of plastic over the top, as any more than that and the magnet's attraction is reduced a lot.Oh, and don't forget, make sure it's not adding supports in where the magnets go