Questions about building an electronics lab - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tree
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 06:12:16 pm
content: Hello folks,I'm new to the forum, although I've been a regular EEVblog video viewer. I am an engineering student and in the process of building up an electronics home lab for very cheap. I have the Hakko FX888 soldering station, the Rigol DS1052E scope, and the Agilent U1272A DMM. I do not have a power supply and was hoping for some recommendations for one that is quite cheap (< $150), and it must be quite accurate and reliable for the money. Also, I have a problem with component storage: I am currently storing my electronic components in plastic bags with a simple label. I am wondering if anyone has suggestions for better storage, e.g., pill boxes.Thank you for your time.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 06:44:19 pm
content: A cheap way to get parts storage is to buy cheap ice cube trays. They are usually stackable and you can sort different values. This of course assumes you have an open flat space to stack them.Of course there are myriad variations on storage boxes, small cabinets, etc available everywhere. You just have to go looking for them.Dave's suggestion of sorting all passives into common numbers, 4R7, 47R, 4K7 etc and keeping them all together instead of spreading all parts out to their own decades seems like a great idea to save space too.

author: tree
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 06:57:35 pm
content: I recall Dave suggesting grouping 47, 470, etc. to save space. I like your idea of ice cube trays, thanks.

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 07:41:53 pm
content: I bought this switch mode 16V/5A Manson SSP-7080. They cost about USD150.00. Pretty reliable and take up little space on the desk.I also built my own adjustable linear power supply (14V/1A), which I tend to use the most, as it is very stable and accurate, for about USD25.00, with some recycled parts:

author: StubbornGreek
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 07:51:54 pm
content: If you're looking for a commercial option, the Mastech HY3005F-3 is almost impossible to beat (price/performance wise) but its $30-50 above your budget. If you're looking for more precision in the controls, the Korad models aren't that bad.As far as parts, I use lots of empty (obviously) motherboard boxes myself but that's just because I have lots available at any one time. The trick is to get creative. Good luck.EDIT: FenderBender just posted this one in another thread and it looks pretty decent (for DIY):http://www.extremecircuits.net/2010/06/fully-adjustable-power-supply_17.html

author: Stephenniall
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 07:53:47 pm
content: I use like many others the storage cabinets (Raaco, is a common brand. But any off brand cabinets work the same).Like others suggested i sort my Resistors in E12 Series, So you have 10R,100R,1K,10K,100K and 1M in one drawer, then 12R etc.There are quite a few Power Supply reviews on the forums you can check using the search function, You're probably better off going for a good brand second hand one rather than a cheap new one. (Just my opinion) Or you can opt to build your own using something like a LM317.Stephen

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 08:02:27 pm
content: Quote from: tree on January 06, 2013, 06:57:35 pmStoring the same numbers together is error prone. It is easy to accidentally pic a value that is 10, 100, or 1000 times off. And it is annoying when you need a nearby value, because e.g. a particular value is not in stock.Therefore I recommend to store consecutive values together, like five or ten, or even 15 consecutive values.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 08:30:41 pm
content: For axial resistors, I do store them by number. 4.7/47/470 together. That way, to find the right one, I'm only looking for one color stripe. I keep them all in a little parts cabinet (intended for nuts and bolts and the like) with consecutive values in consecutive drawers, so if I need a nearby value it's easy to just move to the next drawer. I've never had a problem with pulling out the wrong magnitude, really.For SMD chip resistors, I keep every individual value in a separate, tiny little plastic bag, and then I sort these by number, as above, into larger bags. So if I need 4.7k, I pull out the "47" bag, then the "4.7k" bag from inside. It's a bit inconvenient, but it keeps them all together nicely, and I don't really need to go through them for similar values because if I'm using SMD parts, I'm generally building a board exactly to a specification. I rarely do prototyping in SMD, I use through-hole parts on a breadboard, or Manhattan-style if necessary.

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2013, 11:36:03 pm
content: Maybe I've got OCD, but I can't stand the idea of mixing loose components of different values together. It wastes so much time rummaging for the wanted value, and is too error prone.As with the 'how to store IC's thread, I think you can't beat small envelopes (or ziplocks) stacked in order in boxes with channels. See pics of my SMD resistor stock, and a couple of others.But still, old fashioned parts drawers have their place. I'm very glad I have the red and white plastic drawers in photos 2348-9 for my axial low power resistor collection. Unfortunately those were bought from Dick Smith several decades ago, and I don't know of any source for them these days. Oh, and I made the small sheet metal dividers and glued them in, to give three compartments per drawer. Thus three decades, same value, in most drawers.I do have one small box (black one, last pics) that contains a complete range of axial 1/4W resistors. Each ziplock bag holds 10 each of all the E12 values in one decade. One bag for each decade: 1, 10, 100, ... 1M. But the resistors are still in the tapes, so can be kept in numerical sequence within each bag.One thing to beware, is that polyethelene ziplock bags start to disintegrate after some years. If you're creating a storage system that will last a long time, it's better to use paper envelopes. Assuming you don't have silverfish.

author: ftransform
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2013, 12:26:30 am
content: All these resistor solutions proposed here suck IMO (at least for small quantities). What you want is a card organizer binder.You can get 20 slots/page binder inserts which work great for through hole resistors, smaller capacitors, inductors, diodes. I'd imagine it would work great for SMD.I put my components in a little ziplock baggy and then put them into the pockets.http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-SHEETS-SLEEVES-BCW-20-pockets-TOBACCO-CARDS-PAGES-Binder-Album-4-Organizing-/140751911184?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c577b910I would not recommend it for ESD sensitive things but it is hands down the best solution. Screw dealing with boxes. Why would you wanna take up half a wall with a solution that can spill shit all over your floor if you drop it accidentally?http://image.bayimg.com/7623c1f2fa839056c0ca8016c17045c59305a8d2.jpgYou may think that my solution is flimsy because there are no locking pouches on it but so long you treat the book with respect nothing will fall out of it.Save the boxes for larger parts.

author: mazurov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2013, 01:07:53 am
content: This is what I use for storing SMD components ->https://www.adafruit.com/products/520Books filled with resistors/caps are also available from the same place, however, they are cheaper on eBay, search for 'SMD book'.

author: ftransform
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2013, 01:09:27 am
content: Quote from: mazurov on January 07, 2013, 01:07:53 amThat looks spot on for SMD storage.You can modify those books btw, by running a semi-hot soldering iron across em, to thermally weld the pages (i.e. to make the slots smaller or some such thing.

author: mazurov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2013, 03:41:31 am
content: Quote from: ftransform on January 07, 2013, 01:09:27 amThe pockets are already quite narrow. I can fit next tape size and SO tube inside a pocket but nothing larger would fit. Empty book from Adafruit comes with one page with wider pockets. I need to learn how to make my own pockets.Unfortunately, this won't solve a problem of storing samples. I don't know why but they usually come un-taped.

author: tree
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2013, 04:46:37 pm
content: Quote from: TerraHertz on January 06, 2013, 11:36:03 pmThat looks very, very organized.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2013, 06:06:49 pm
content: In regards to buying a power supply, just keep the following points in mind:1) Make sure voltage is adjustable (not fixed) and goes up to at least 30V. Multiple isolated outputs are nice, but for your price range you'll likely only get one.2) Make sure max current is adjustable and goes up to at least 2A3) There should be a master enable/disable button/switch to cut power if you notice smoke (if you keep max current very low this shouldn't happen anyways)As for organizing your components, go to any hardware store and pick up some component bins with 60+ individual drawers for different items. These are often used to store screws and bolts etc, but they work perfectly for resistors/capacitors/IC's etc. You can get good buys on the components at futurlec.com

author: Deepak
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2013, 04:36:48 pm
content: Quote from: Wytnucls on January 06, 2013, 07:41:53 pmI like that power supply - I have 2 of the Extech branded ones which I bought locally. They're nice because you can hook more than one together to get higher current output.The thing to keep in mind, though, is that the displays aren't terribly accurate or granular. So if you need to be able to fine tune the output building a regulator to sit between the power supply and your circuit would be helpful (and a fun project).