hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Pickit 3 programming "Targed Device ID does not Expected Device ID" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Eddeflet
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 26, 2014, 05:13:35 pm
content: Hi there!After Daves enthusiastic videos about electronics I decided to buy some components and dive in as a complete beginner. First plan: Blinking led on microcontroller. But I believe got myself into some classic "trap for young players". I Got myself a pickit 3, a PIC16F628A and some more components. First built myself a little 5V circuit (standard 7805) and wired the rest up like this:In practice it looks like this (also connected to pickit 3):Thus pin1 of the pickit goes to P4, pin2 goes to P14, pin3 goes to P5, pin4 goes to P13, pin5 goes to P12, as the pickit documentation shows.However when I try to programm the microchip I get the following error(mplab x with XC8 compiler)QuoteWhat is wrong? I rewired it all, but same error message.

author: 22swg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2014, 05:53:50 pm
content: A few points. PK3 needs to be set to the correct device and to power the device ? , the reset pin needs to be pulled high (vdd) 10k will docaution !!!!... however the vPP will go to ~12v so run PK3 pin 1 through a 100R to the reset pin .

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2014, 06:49:03 pm
content: Pickit 3 pinout is this:1 MCLR/VPP2 VDD Target3 VSS Ground4 PGD (ICSPDAT)5 PGC (ICSPCLK)6 5PGM (LVPYour PIC16F628 has the following:4 VPP (MCLR)14 VDD5 VSS (Ground)13 PGD12 PGCYou have to make these connections and then you also have to connect a resistor that can be up to 10k between VDD and MCLR. I use 8.2 kohm or 10 kohm. That's missing in your layout.Power your breadboard from 5v separately, don't enable powering your board from pickit 3, that's how I work.The standalone Pickit 3 app supports the chip, select it from the combo box and try to read data from it, if the chip is working, you should be able to retrieve data from it. You can find the application towards the bottom of the page here:http://www.microchip.com/pagehandler/en-us/devtools/dev-tools-parts.html

author: AndyC_772
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2014, 07:22:12 pm
content: You should also put a decoupling capacitor between VDD and VSS, close to the PIC pins. Putting it on stilts a few inches away doesn't count.

author: Eddeflet
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 26, 2014, 07:29:10 pm
content: Thanx for the help! I put a 10k resistor between pin 4 and 14. Tried powering from the board aswell as the pickit itself, both still give the same error. This is how I put the resistor, that is correct right?I have MPLAB X installed, where can I find that read function you are talking about?I realise now the 100nF cap wasn't in there when I powered it with the pickit, will try to put it closer.

author: Eddeflet
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 26, 2014, 08:05:20 pm
content: Tried putting the 100nF cap directly over the PIC between Vss and Vdd, still the same error...Reading the PIC did work though! Faulty badge of pics maybe?
pickit 3 setup - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: funkimunky
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2012, 09:21:04 am
content: I would like to buy a pickit 3 but I am unsure of what I need with it. I see that there are different bundles with different types of development boards each with a different price.What would be a good beginners setup for using the pickit?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 05, 2012, 10:15:55 am
content: get just the pickit and work on a breadboard or make your own experimenting board on veroboard. What programming environment are you using ? the pickit3 pretty much requires MPLAB, courtesy of microchip making it locked into their software.

author: funkimunky
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2012, 11:29:43 am
content: MPLAB will do me. I'm trying to make the learning part as easy as possible. Would you know of any links to good tutorials that show how to use a breadboard with the pickit 3?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 05, 2012, 11:54:14 am
content: err, you lug the mcu into the breadboard and use jumper wires ro connect the pickit to the breadboard. I have jumper wires from maplin that work good or you can use a zif socket plugged into the pickit and then transfer the chip to the breadboard

author: funkimunky
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2012, 12:03:20 pm
content: I didnt know it was that easy. I thought you had to do some clever circuit building to get it to work. Thanks for your advice I'm gonna go and get a pickit now.

author: notsob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2012, 12:06:22 pm
content: you can buy jumper wires for your breadboard (at an inflated price), or make your own, just strip the insulation from some solid conductor, cat 5 cable & use the wires inside it.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 05, 2012, 12:33:17 pm
content: yes but that will be too thin for the pickit, you'd best get a molex plug and solder wires to it

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2012, 03:26:58 pm
content: I've cut a floppy cable I didn't need anymore, separated the first 6 wires out of it and soldered a 6 pin male header (the standard 2.54mm one) to both ends. The first wire is colored differently so it makes it idiot proof to connect it to the board.
PICKIT-3 WOES. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: neko efecktz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2017, 06:01:30 am
content: Help..This morning I was working on a small project and burning to my pic OK.I had to go shopping with my wife and when I got home I went back to MPLAB to do some more work.I was unable to burn the program to chip. PIC12F675I keep getting greeted with an error message.Initially I found that the Pickit-3 had lost part of its setup.namelyPOWERPower target device from Pickit-3 was reset to disable. I.e. uncheckedonce I reset that I stared getting the following message.QuoteThe power light is on.The blue active light is on and flashes off during the attempted write.The status light is white and flashes to red during the attempted write.Does anyone have any ideas what has happened.The Pickit-3 is a clone but has never given trouble before.I was pondering whether to get a second one as a backup.Is it likely to be just a silly glitch that I have missed. There was the glitch in the Pickit-3 to supply power being turned off.hoping to hear some good newsThank youBILL.

author: BrianHG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2017, 06:16:36 am
content: Try a complete system shutdown, not a restart. I once had my PicKit3, original, seize up in a similar manner after accidentally yanking out the USB cable during a project update. The only final fix was to shut down my system & restart.

author: neko efecktz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2017, 06:38:29 am
content: Just did That and It worked.possibly a glitch on the usb port.thank youBILL.
PID control coefficients - discrete form - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: illusive
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2018, 12:40:56 pm
content: Hello everybody,I'm trying to implement a PID control in my microcontroller algorithm. I've done quite a bit of reading the past few days and i have managed to write the PID code structure. Now i have to use one of the more popular experimental methods (Ziegler-Nichols, Cohen-Coon) to get the parameters for the controller, but i'm hitting a wall here. All of these methods describes the tuning processand and calculates the values (Kp, Ti, Td) in the continuous time domain, so all the values i calculate cannot be directly used in the software. I have found books and papersdescribing the approximation process with far to much math and at in the and i'm still not too sure that i can use that information correctly. I'm also finding some simple answers like:Ki = Proportional gain / TiKd = Proportional gain * TdI'm manly using the Atmel application note:AVR221: Discrete PID Controller on tinyAVR and megaAVR devices -https://homepages.uni-regensburg.de/~erc24492/PID-Regler/Atmel-2558-Discrete-PID-Controller-on-tinyAVR-and-megaAVR_ApplicationNote_AVR221.pdfIn this documents the converted coefficients are given as:Ki=(Kp*T)/TiKd=(Kp*Td)/Twhere T is the samplig period.Can someone recommend me which whay to take, will these simple formulas save the day or do i need to dive in the textbooks? Thanks!

author: JS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2018, 04:12:37 pm
content: There are several approximations to take a system from the continuous time domain to the discrete time domain. If you really want to learn about this you should look at Z transformation and ω tranformation.If you're just trying to take the PID to the μC the first approximation is using it as it is, but only works if the sampling rate is much faster than the speed of the system. Otherwise it becomes unstable and you need to work a bit more.JS

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2018, 04:28:42 pm
content: Quote from: illusive on September 01, 2018, 12:40:56 pmYou are over thinking this. First of all, if you approximate the continuous form of a PID algorithm in the discrete time domain (all real industrial controllers do this), then the tuning will work out fine as long as the sampling interval is short enough (e.g. at least 10x faster than the dominant time constant of your system).Secondly, if you use the manual tuning method or Ziegler-Nichols method (see Wikipedia article), then you do the tuning with the actual controller online, so the sample interval is automatically taken into account. In the real world people tend to tune the controller less aggressively than theory indicates, so don't worry too much about stability. Just de-tune it a bit if you see too much overshoot or oscillation.Tuning controllers is an art, not a science. If you try to apply too much science you will just make things too complicated.
PID over modbus, what to set? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: nardev
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 21, 2023, 09:03:09 pm
content: Hey,I never used PID before and now i bit confused and i don't know if this is now bang-bang setup or actually i get PID.It's something similar to soldering owen profile but without cooling.In particular i have Omega CN402-1114455-C4https://assets.omega.com/manuals/CN400-Series_manual.pdf(Very fancy model, even has NFC and very nice google app to send settings.)Two temperature probes + one valve output.- I'm able to send/read data from modbus registers- In the settings i set the temperature range which i want- I'm able to set target temperatures within the range which was preset- when i send command to set new target temp, it properly turns on the output and waits for the temp to be reached.What is confusing me is that it practically behaves as "on/off" just as a P. Is that actually what i need? Is there something more optimal? How can i know (set it) if it is optimizing the consumption of gas (the valve controls the gas)?When i set the temperature, it's trying to reach it with heating and than it turn's everything off. Wait's for the temp to go down and than again, turns the relay on. So, it's like a "bang-bang" controller.I have set of about 900-1800 temperature points which i have to change (always setting higher temperature, the cooling is not needed).p.s. unfortunately i'm not able to test in the real environment but i want to be sure that i'm doing it right.In the attachment i have current and default setup.The current is actually manually being controlled with an input rotary knob -10VDC - +10VDC
PID Regulator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: nForce
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2019, 07:50:39 pm
content: Can a PID Regulator have two or more feedback loops? For example, if we are measuring process variable which has negative values and positive.

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2019, 08:12:51 pm
content: Not sure if I understand you correctly.Regulator can regulate regardless the sign of the value.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2019, 08:24:33 pm
content: QuoteMy understanding is no. PID only has a single control loop.There are 2 ways to go about PID.1. Manually tune the PI parameters to get best response then tweek the D.2. Characterise the open loop transfer equation of the system, so that you can use for the closed loop equation.With the 2 option, you can have as many inputs as you like. They will just boil down to a simple multiplier or an offset constants. This sounds like the 'negative values and positive'.There is however only a single feedback loop.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2019, 08:29:39 pm
content: Quote from: nForce on September 09, 2019, 07:50:39 pmOne loop controls one variable. If you have two variables to control you will need two loops. It is possible for two loops to interact with each other, in which case more advanced strategies may be required.Your question about negative and positive values is hard to understand. It is still a single process variable.

author: Dave
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2019, 08:35:47 pm
content: Please be more specific with your question. It's very hard to give you any sort of meaningful answer (or alternative solution) to your problem if you're being vague.

author: nForce
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2019, 04:45:58 pm
content: Sorry guys. Here is the thing:I would like to control a synhrounous motor, which works as a motor and a generator. So our measurement of torque has negative and positive values. My question is at the PID regulator, how would I create a proper PID regulator such that it would regulate properly. The PID regulator has the output torque, reference torque of course.I know that reference torque subtract from actual torque.

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2019, 07:02:26 pm
content: PID regulator does not give a turd, whether the value of y(t) is positive or negative. The error value is still e(t) = r(t) - y(t).You should start studying hard, if you want to spin a synchronous motor.
Pierce gate oscillator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2021, 02:39:49 pm
content: For a pierce-gate crystal oscillator, are there logic families to avoid?I am thinking of using a SN74LVC1G04DCKR, any possible pitfalls?I do not care about the duty cycle, because I purposefully choose a double frequency oscillator and use a flip flop.(the frequency is pretty unusual, and there are no clocks with such frequency)

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2021, 03:47:28 pm
content: For this kind of use, you should choose unbuffered gates.In this case: 74LVC1GU04.Buffered vs. unbuffered is a bit like the difference between picking a guitar string with a hammer or with a plectrum.What frequency? If it's a 32768 Hz or similar "tuning fork" crystal, it needs a large series resistor, as maximum drive level is only 1 uW.

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2021, 08:38:54 am
content: Your example fits perfectly!Does it still hold true when a resistor (R16 in the attached schematic) is used?The frequency is 21.47727MHz, I was thinking about using a 2k2 and 1M resistor,but 5**2/2k2 is 11uW!Should I increase R16?

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2021, 10:48:24 am
content: No problem, your circuit should be OK. The 1 uW drive is only relevant for the low frequency crystals.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2021, 11:01:44 am
content: In another topic, Zero999 suggested the74LVC1GX04for Pierce oscillators, as it has one unbuffered inverter for the actual oscillator, and a second buffered inverter to provide a squared up, buffered output to external loads. I agree.

author: fabiodl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2021, 11:41:53 am
content: That's neat!

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2021, 02:18:31 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on January 12, 2021, 11:01:44 amThere's also the74LVC1401, which has a shut down pin, a buffer, as well as the Schmitt trigger.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2021, 06:04:12 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on January 12, 2021, 11:01:44 amI'd forgotten that one. Really nice part.
piezo booster - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: harps
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2018, 02:16:29 pm
content: helloI wonder if anyone knows what type of IC and circuit would be good for boosting a piezo output by around x 1.5 ?i have a 27mm piezo for triggering. but I need to boost it slightly before it goes into the computer, just slightly, so I have the range I need.thanks for help.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2018, 04:33:08 pm
content: For maximum low frequency response, a low input bias current operational amplifier is often used. If a higher low frequency cutoff is acceptable, then a high input bias current operational amplifier can be used.Configure the operational amplifier in non-inverting mode, directly connect the piezo to the non-inverting input, and place a resistor across the piezo to sink the input bias current.

author: harps
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2018, 06:46:11 pm
content: Hello, thank you for your reply.would a JFET be best, like an OPA141 or OPA1641?The resistor across the piezo to sink it, what value would be a good starting point to try?thank you for your help.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2018, 10:55:00 pm
content: Either the OPA141 or OPA1641 should work fine. Note that low frequency noise is dominated by noise from the resistor so a low noise amplifier is not usually required.Resistance values between 1 to 10 megohms are typical but can be higher in very low frequency applications. The resistor only has to be low enough to sink the input bias current. 20 picoamps from either of the above amplifiers will yield only 20 microvolts of additional offset with a 1 megohm resistor.
buzzer question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: nicknml
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2014, 01:50:53 am
content: A while back I bought a bag of cheap buzzers (internal oscillators) off of Ebay. Most of the listings don't provide an actual part number/datasheet and I was wondering if mine had a diode to protect against back EMF. I heard that most of them do, but I wanted to make sure.Since it was a rainy day, I decided to tear one of them down. After some work and removing the epoxy with some paint thinner I finally found a PCB. It's just a single sided board (I'm assuming that the internal oscillator is somehow a part of the magnet/coil assembly.) I whipped out my multimeter and probed around a bit.Below are the photo of the pcb and a crude sketch (I did scrape that diode a bit from taking a layer of epoxy off with a Dremel in attempt to embed a diode that went terribly wrong lol):Note that there were no labels on any of the parts or pcb itself.From my probing, D1 does in fact appear to be a diode. Pins 3 and 1 appear to be anodes and 2 and 4 appear to be cathodes. I used the diode check function to check the diode. I got Vf readings of around .68V R1 appears to be a resistor and I measures about 18.6K Ohms. It was a fun mini-teardown. I've come to the conclusion that it does have a diode to protect against back EMF. So did I come to the correct conclusion? I'm a bit curious as to the purpose of the resistor.EDIT: it's a actually a magnetic buzzer not a piezo buzzer.

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2014, 05:31:05 am
content: Since piezos are mostly capacitve, there is no back EMF.I do not think it is a diode, it makes not sense. Piezo buzzers with internal oszillator normally use a piezo disc with 3 electrodes to get a feedback signal to the driving transistor. The layout looks like it had more than 2 connections to the piezo. Therefore I think D1 is a CMOS inverter used as part of the oscillator. The resistor is probably for protection or biasing of the feedback signal.

author: nicknml
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2014, 12:17:20 pm
content: Thanks bktemp. Unfortunately I had a stupid moment when writing the OP. I realized that it's actually a magnetic buzzer not a piezo buzzer.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2014, 05:03:39 pm
content: Another note about magnetic buzzers and back EMF. Old electromagnetic buzzers, the type which use a mechanical interrupter, which is basically a relay with a normally closed contact, wired in series with the coil and connected to a diaphragm need a back EMF diode and possibly a capacitor and ferrite bead to filter out any RF emissions. Newer electromagnetic buzzers, which have an electronic oscillator connected to the coil, don't need a blocking diode.
Piezoelectric glass? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Aggressive_Doughnut
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2019, 04:35:18 pm
content: I've been starting to get into playing with piezo devices, but I keep seeing this one diagram for a device that confuses me.Hereyou'll see a liquid density measuring device diagram and it includes a piezo actuator. As the actuator is outside of the enclosing tube, I can only think that the device somehow interacts with the internal glass tube. Is this right? or is the drawing incorrect somehow?
Piezoelectric transducers: optimal frequency - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: raff5184
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2021, 06:36:45 pm
content: Hi,I'm trying to understand how to find the optimal frequency of a piezoelectric ultrasonic transducer, at least theoretically.I know that each transducer has a resonant and an anti-resonant frequency. I have some transducers and took some measurements with a NANO VNA. I thought that the best operating point would be the resonant frequency, where the SWR is at its minimum. But, I was reading thishttps://www.americanpiezo.com/knowledge-center/piezo-theory/determining-resonance-frequency.htmland it says that "Maximum response from the element will be at a point between fm and fn" (min and max impedance frequencies corresponding more or less to resonance and anti-resonance frequencies).Can you please clarify this for me or link some resources (books, papers..)?thank you
pin 1 on smd package ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Asim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2015, 02:10:43 pm
content: Hi thereI have an SMD component that doesn't have a notch to identify pin 1,but it has a line at the top (check attachment). My logic tells me that the pin next to that line is pin 1.I learnt in a hard way not to assume anything, so I am asking. Is the pin next to the line pin 1 ?

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2015, 02:12:39 pm
content: The line has the same function as a key notch on a DIP IC.

author: AndyC_772
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2015, 02:12:54 pm
content: Sometimes the data sheet contains a drawing which is specific to that particular part, in which case pin 1 should be identified unambiguously.In the absence of any further information, I'd expect pin 1 to be the pin at the bottom of your photo nearest the "C" mark.

author: DarkZero
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2015, 02:35:07 pm
content: http://www.youkits.com/data/COMPONENTS%20PICTURES%20OF%20MAINBOOARD/COMPONENTS%20PICTURES%20OF%20MAINBOOARD/NE555-2.jpgyou see how side of the pin 1 is not at 90 degres angle that's the side that 1 will always be in the left upper corner

author: Asim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2015, 03:06:40 pm
content: Quote from: DarkZero on January 24, 2015, 02:35:07 pmI do not, it looks the same to me xD

author: DarkZero
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2015, 03:13:51 pm
content: Oh sorry didn't see your package put that line to point up and left of it in the upper left corner is 1

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2015, 03:21:00 pm
content: Quote from: DarkZero on January 24, 2015, 03:13:51 pmUsually pin 1 is the bottom left.Check the datasheet instead of guessing.

author: DarkZero
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2015, 03:59:05 pm
content: http://www.infineon.com/dgdl?folderId=db3a30431936bc4b01195360bd8f3cdc&fileId=db3a30431936bc4b01195362c0153ce3top left corner

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2015, 04:00:04 pm
content: Quote from: DarkZero on January 24, 2015, 03:59:05 pmOh, you're viewing the package rotated. That was not overly clear.Always orient the package so the markings can be read. It avoids this sort of silly confusion.

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2015, 04:08:54 pm
content: So that way or not?

author: Asim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2015, 05:05:54 pm
content: Quote from: Yansi on January 24, 2015, 04:08:54 pmyes, i can confirm it. i soldered the part O0
Pin header connectors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rexxar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 06:50:59 am
content: This is probably a dumb question, but do header connectors, liketheseusually come with the actual crimp connectors, or do you need to buy those separately?

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 07:04:21 am
content: Separately, at least for the Molex ones I bought recently

author: cybermaus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 07:14:52 am
content: Separately from official distributors, but hobby shops (and ebay shops) also sell "sets" of for example connector, crimp and even pcb socket.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 07:16:54 am
content: Separately is the norm.

author: rexxar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 08:35:27 am
content: Thanks, guys. It looks like the crimp tools for these things are hundreds of dollars?!I think I'll just "crimp" them with a pair of pliers and solder the wire in.

author: cybermaus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 12:09:33 pm
content: See here also:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/making-cables-for-headers/

author: Zbig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 02:05:02 pm
content: Quote from: rexxar on February 01, 2014, 08:35:27 amNot necessarily. I got a pair of these:http://www.ebay.com/itm/300908418152and they're quite nice. Also, the shipping was very fast in my case (Europe). Domestic-kind-of-fast, actually.

author: vandersonpc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 02:18:10 pm
content: I crimp my connectors using a small plier and it works like a charm! To ensure a perfect electrical connection we may can use a little drop of solder!Cheers, Vanderson

author: Frost
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 02:31:21 pm
content: Quote from: rexxar on February 01, 2014, 08:35:27 amIt depends on the contacts your connector requires.Avoid connectors with small turned contacts, to crimp this contactsyou need a four-indent crimping tool, this tools are extremely expensive.If the connector will not used for an aircraft or military application,it's better to look for connectors with rolled or stamped contacts,the crimp tools for this kind of contacts are a lot cheaper.
Pin headers that won't damage breadboards - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: aeberbach
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2020, 11:33:47 pm
content: Regular square pin are said to damage breadboards as they are a little too large and stretch out the contacts. They are certainly convenient; a hybrid breadboard/wire wrap construction is very neat, once you have the square pin in the breadboard it is easy to wire wrap pin to pin to make connections. But given that a top quality breadboard is expensive maybe that's a bad idea and I should just carefully cut and bend solid core wires.I spent a bit of time searching for machined pins for those times you do need to put a pin into a breadboard, like when plugging in a module on piece of proto board. Harwin D01 series come close but the pins look a little short for peace of mind. Anyone got a favourite?Or is this a myth and you've been using square header pins for years with no issues?

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2020, 12:42:41 am
content: I'm not to particular about the bread boards I buy. I get the cheap ones because I've set a few on fire. But I did find these that may be what your looking for.https://www.sparkfun.com/products/743?_ga=2.77968733.851358417.1582504737-353490360.1582504737These are worth more than the boards I buy.

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2020, 02:32:09 am
content: I've seen a hole or two go bad on a breadboard, but that's what they do. They should be thought of as disposable.

author: WattsThat
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2020, 02:37:45 am
content: I agree the .025 square pin headers will make the breadboard clips loose and problematic, especially for round wire component leads so I avoid them for breadboarding purposes.I use the cheap, round pin headers available from China, gold plated, .017 diameter pins. About 2 cents/pin in lots of ten strips of 40 pins. eBay and Aliexpress have plenty of listings. I don’t know the pin length, can measure if it matters. BTW, the longer, thin ends go into the BB.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2020, 04:53:36 am
content: Quote from: WattsThat on February 24, 2020, 02:37:45 amI concur: get cheap Chinese machined pins. They work great.Quote from: JustMeHere on February 24, 2020, 02:32:09 amA high quality breadboard will last for many, many, many years without getting loose, if it's treated properly (i.e. adhering to the maximum wire size). Cheap ones are a different matter…Square pins really are too big, and will wear out a cheap breadboard quickly. Even worse are things like many potentiometers, TO-220 semiconductors, etc. The latter can be made safe by using flat jaw pliers to rotate the pins by 90 degrees, so that the pin enters parallel to the terminal strip, instead of prying it apart.
Pin ordering question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: DrMag
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2017, 11:12:11 pm
content: Which order would you prefer, and why?(1) +V, -V, Gndor(2) +V, Gnd, -VThe voltages will never be more than +/-15.(2) is more intuitive to me, but Pomona makes a3-pin banana plugthat has ground on the end.

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2017, 11:49:12 pm
content: There isn't a hard and fast rule on that. I've seen it done both ways.There's also:3) V+,V-,GND arranged in a triangle so that a 2-prong banana plug will go in any two of the three terminals, depending on what you need.
Pin out for HP A69 Quartz Crystal Oscillator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Crambone
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2022, 11:08:08 pm
content: I can’t seem to find the pin out for the following unit, any help would be appreciated.

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2022, 11:20:31 pm
content: The manual is here:http://www.leapsecond.com/museum/10811a/10811a.pdf
Pin-out question on IR blaster circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: msknight
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2025, 12:41:15 pm
content: I've got a Broadlink IR Blaster that I want to connect to Home Assistant, but the chip on board couldn't be re-programmed, so I'm de-coding the tracks in order to hook it up to a ESP32 C3 Zero.According to my understanding, green is ground, red is permanent 5v and purple is potentially a 5v signal to trigger the NPN to allow the LED's to connect to ground and complete the circuit.Cyan I think is the feedback from the IR detector, but that leaves the third pin which I would expect to be permanent 5V... but I'm confused as it seems to be connected to the purple rather than the red... which doesn't make sense.I'd be grateful for advice please.

author: ahsrabrifat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2025, 01:43:29 pm
content: I think it will be safe if you test with a multimeter.

author: msknight
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2025, 02:01:43 pm
content: I've been trying with my multimeter. That's how I've drawn the lines... it's that third pin that the continuity tester can't confirm.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2025, 02:22:03 pm
content: why not convert wot you got to a circuit diagram,things might become a bit clearer.

author: msknight
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2025, 09:12:58 pm
content: I cut their chip off the board and applied power. I was fortunate that I diagnosed the pins correctly in this case, and I didn't blow anything up.It turns out that the receiver is always powered.Using that, I was able to wire up an ESP32 C3 Zero and get it working in Home Assistant.At the moment, I've got to watch the logs for received codes, and I have to hard-code transmitted codes in the code on the C3. But I'm working towards being able to pass codes from HA to the C3 to transmit... but one thing at a time.

author: Eurora
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2025, 01:06:52 am
content: Your understanding is very close. The pin you are unsure about is almost certainly the connection for the status LED on the original board. It is an output from the old microcontroller that lit a small light to show the device was on or connecting to WiFi. It is not a power input and you can ignore it completely for your purpose.For your ESP32 C3, you only need to connect four wires:The green wire is ground. Connect it to a GND pin on the ESP32.The red wire is 5V. You can use this to power the ESP32 if your board accepts 5V input.The purple wire is the IR transmit signal. Connect this to a GPIO pin on the ESP32 that you will set as an output to control the IR LEDs.The cyan wire is the IR receiver feedback. Connect this to a different GPIO pin on the ESP32 set as an input to read incoming IR signals.That is all you need to do. The mystery pin served no function other than for a small light and is not needed for the IR blaster to work. Your plan to use the ESP32 is correct.
PIN Photodiode BPW34BS - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Dat Tran
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2015, 03:44:16 pm
content: In my project, I use the PIN Photodiode. As the title, it's BPW34BS, I'm reading it's datasheet. But i don't understand some problems below:1. What is the Dark current?2. What is the Spectral sensitivity?3. Open-Circuit Voltage (Ev=1000 lx). So, "lx",what is mean?4. I don't know mean of "Temperature coefficient of Vo" and "Temperature coefficient of Isc"5. Noise equivalent powerAny ideasHelp meThank you allOh! I'm Sorry! This is document which I read:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B73oNVka3W6bb25tbHhSRTdfVFE

author: Dat Tran
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2015, 04:16:44 pm
content: Anybody

author: w2aew
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2015, 04:42:54 pm
content: Quote from: Dat Tran on July 30, 2015, 03:44:16 pm1) Dark current is the leakage current through the diode when reversed biased with 10V and not being illuminated with light. The spec indicates 2nA typ, and 30nA maximum).2) Spectral sensitivity indicates how much photocurrent results from a given optical input power. Spec shows 0.2 A/W, which means that you get 200mA photocurrent when illuminated with 1 watt of optical power at 400nm wavelength.3) I assume lx means "lux", another measure of optical illumination. Indicates that the diode terminal voltage will be 390mV when illuminated with 1000 lux.4) This tells you how much the open circuit voltage (Vo) described above will vary with temperature, and how much the short-circuit current value will vary with temperature.5) Is used to compute the noise contribution from the photodiode, useful when you need to predict the total noise in a circuit to estimate SNR, etc.

author: Dat Tran
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2015, 04:57:48 pm
content: Thank you so much, w2aew!

author: Dat Tran
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2015, 05:06:53 pm
content: Very detail, w2aew.thanks you
Pin terminolgy... *face palm* - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: DarrellD
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 15, 2013, 04:44:03 am
content: Hello all,So, I have been working on a small project, dc-dc converter. I'm using a LT3785 and would like to be able to activate this IC with a pin from an ATmega8535L.http://www.linear.com/product/LTC3785www.atmel.com/Images/2502S.pdforwww.atmel.com/Images/doc2502.pdfI'm still relatively new to reading these datasheets, and get lost in all the different terminology used in them.My question/s is: Would I connect an output pin of the ATmega to the “RUN/SS” pin1 of the LT3785, or would I power the LT3787 through a transistor to its Vin pin? Maybe I’m just in over my head, but any help would be greatly appreciated!Thanks

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2013, 04:52:53 am
content: Ctrl-F is your friend. A quick search for "shut down" (make sure to try variants like "shutdown" or "shut-down") brings up this sentence:QuoteSo connect RUN/SS to a microcontroller pin. To run, set the pin as an input. To stop, set it as an output with value 0. Reading further confirms that the pin won't rise above 2.2V, so unless the microcontroller is running lower than that you won't overvolt the input. Don't forget the capacitor that the pin should have.You should read the entire datasheet.It really isn't that bad if you break it into sections. Go make yourself a cup of coffee, print it out, grab a highlighter, and get used to it. You're in for a lot of datasheet reading in the future.

author: DarrellD
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 15, 2013, 05:06:50 am
content: Thanks C4757p!I do read through the datasheets entirely. I'm still trying to force-feed myself the language used in electronics. What trips me up is that one manufacturer calls something one thing where another calls it something else. I'm still trying to build that relational database in my brain!Again, thanks for the help!

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2013, 05:15:51 am
content: Yep, there's a lot of non-standard terminology. Even if it were more standardized I'm sure everybody would still use it slightly differently.Such is the life of an EE. You'll get used to it in time.
Pinecil and Pinepower problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Kantilo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2021, 05:35:42 pm
content: Hello, I bought a PinePower power supply, and when I use the Pinecil in USB-PD I sometimes cuts, and it does not do it using the Jack diet, is it someone would know What can it come from? Does it damage the soldering iron?I put a video :https://files.catbox.moe/c1adnq.mp4Thank you
Pinecil vs TS100. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: l3gi0n
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 07:34:47 pm
content: I purchased a KSGER T12 with an internal power supply yesterday...I want to buy a second soldering iron, I am looking at Pinecil and TS100.Which one of these should I get ? and why ?Also, Pinecil needs a 20V/3A=60W adapter, does this one work well with it ?:https://www.amazon.ca/Type-Charger-Lenovo-ThinkPad-Laptop/dp/B07C19N53M/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=65w+usb+type+C&qid=1632099355&sr=8-8Or is it recommended to get another type of power supply ? links please.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 08:48:48 pm
content: Get this one instead:https://portasol.com/portasol-pro-piezo-75-kit.htmlIt's my favorite iron for electronics (and other tasks) when it needs to be portable.Is also sold under the Weller brand.With lighter gas (butane), you're completely autonomous.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 09:00:39 pm
content: And BTW, the Pinecil is absolutely ridiculous (I hope I found the right link on Google).Why on earth would a soldering iron need a 32-bit ARM processor?Not to mention that wattage lacks completely in the specifications. I though it was a hoax.

author: l3gi0n
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 11:14:37 pm
content: The wattage is 60W through USB type C connector and 63W through the barrel jack connector...

author: all_repair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2021, 12:34:44 am
content: There are portable irons with temperature control that use T12 bit. Though they are not what you are asking. I haven't used for long so cannot comment further.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2021, 01:47:41 am
content: You don't have to use the USB-C port for power. It also has a DC barrel jack so you could use any 19V laptop power adapter -- although you might have to fit a compatible DC plug. For instance, I use an old Dell laptop power brick with my TS-100.
Ping or Chime  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: M0BSW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2013, 08:14:46 pm
content: Hi ,I want to add a ping or chime to some of my projects, when I leave them on mostly, the battery operated ones I leave it on, to remind me to turn them off. any ideas.Paul

author: strangelovemd12
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2013, 10:19:23 pm
content: A 555 in one shot mode to set off a buzzer/light/etc. a predetermined time after power on or after last input. Or a fire-breathing dragon. The lack of details make it difficult to tell which is more suited to your application.

author: Sasja
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2013, 10:33:08 pm
content: yeah, it probably depends on the kind of project, so what are you making exactly? Maybe you could also make your circuits switch off automatically, or go into some low-power mode?a fire-breathing dragon would do the job i guess.

author: M0BSW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 08:09:24 am
content: Quote from: strangelovemd12 on November 23, 2013, 10:19:23 pmQuote from: strangelovemd12 on November 23, 2013, 10:19:23 pmI have built a function generator which is battery powered, that one of the projects, the other which I continuously forget is the soldering station, I tend to solder for about 1/2 an hour then forget the bugger is still on, that just a couple of the things I'd like to have some control over, I like the idea of it switching off.

author: Sasja
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 09:05:58 am
content: Adding some auto-sleep or shutdown feature to your battery powered function generator circuit would make sense,hacking your soldering station to add a such a feature could be fun too (and maybe keep your house from burning down)I assume you're after a learning experience instead of just wanting it to happen now?googling "soldering iron auto shut off" gave me this link:http://homemadecircuitsandschematics.blogspot.be/2013/11/automatic-soldering-power-shut-off.htmli'm sure you'll find plenty other examples. If you just want the feature, buy a soldering station with the feature.

author: AndyC_772
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 09:31:08 am
content: There's a really nice 'ping' generator circuit on the front panel of the old Tektronix TDS5xx (and similar) series scopes. Have a look around for "TDS520B Component Service Manual", page 351.

author: M0BSW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 11:01:22 am
content: Quote from: Sasja on November 24, 2013, 09:05:58 amYes your right , sounds like you know me to well, I want a basic idea then learn from it and put my own teist in it

author: M0BSW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 11:02:38 am
content: Quote from: AndyC_772 on November 24, 2013, 09:31:08 amNow that's a good idea, thank you Andy, I'll have a search around
pinout of SOIC14 part - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 11, 2010, 05:45:00 pm
content: I've got some SOIC14 LM339 parts but there is nothing on the part to indicate pin1, so I use the parts text to determine the orientation ?

author: FreeThinker
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2010, 06:21:08 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on December 11, 2010, 05:45:00 pmIs there not a chamfered edge?This is usually pin 1http://cdn.sigma.octopart.com/187927/image/Analog-Devices-OP496GSZ.jpg

author: Jon Chandler
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2010, 06:26:59 pm
content: While I was finding this illustration, Freethinker made his reply. Hope it helps clarify.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 17, 2010, 06:00:01 pm
content: ok I'll take a look (for some reason notification of replies never came) thanks for the suggestion

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 19, 2010, 11:40:26 am
content: well I can sort of see the chamfer, although one of the other IC's is very hard to which side is which, I wish they'd just put a circle next to pin 1

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2010, 04:16:49 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on December 11, 2010, 05:45:00 pm1) willing to kill one or two? by connecting upside down? try and error?2) connectivity/diode test on pins? and care to mark where is the pin 1 located on every chip?3) did u buy china made?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 19, 2010, 04:27:49 pm
content: well the LM339's are identifiable but I have some MAX4080 chips (£ 2 each !!!) that I'm not blowing up on a whim, amd some SOIC8 mosfets that I'm connecting 4 of in parallel and thats going to be a mess to fix if I blow them up. Plus I should not have to buy chips to blow up just to find out the polarity

author: johnmx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2010, 05:19:52 pm
content: I have one MAX4080 in SOIC8 and it's very easy to identify pin 1, perhaps yours are different.I also took a picture of a STS6PF30L, this is a SOIC8 MOSFET. See the attached pictures.