Looking for a router with a novelty – it has to work - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:10:16 pm
content: I'm looking for a wireless router to have one that works for once. Or rather the combination of the router and the wireless adapters need to work.I have so far been using a TP Link so-called wireless router but it and it own adapters don't get on. The 5 GHz band just won't work properly and it's an absolute nightmare. I'm having knowing the troubles with my Internet provider although they are suggesting it might be the router and I'm starting to believe them.So I'm in the market for another router I want good speeds so that I can connect to network attached drives but I don't want to spend stupid money and a novelty is it has to actually work with Wi-Fi dongle is probably from the same manufacturer.What are the best manufacturers these days obviously TP Link is not exactly on my list.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:14:09 pm
content: You wouldn't have a Lenovo laptop would you ? i'm battling a similar problem . The wifi conks out every few hours or so. All the Lenovo's in the office are plagued by this ( they are different models ) . The HP and Dells have no problem though ...The forums are full of people reporting the same issues. Something with a driver. And there is no fix yet. Been going on for years.On some routers there are no problems. Hook up to a business router that implements the protocols more tightly and the misery begins.

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:16:39 pm
content: Quote from: free_electron on October 25, 2015, 09:14:09 pmMine too. -Useless crap, that wifi implementation.If that is his case, would a change of PCIe wireless card help him (and me)?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:17:51 pm
content: This is on both my main PC and my laptop which is a zoo storm. I'm getting terrible ping this evening ranging from 39 to nearly 300 ms it slightly better on my laptop plugged straight into the router with a LAN cable. On my main PC I have tried a combination of Wi-Fi adapter and LAN overpower cable both with disastrous results.It is either a problem with the line that they don't want to investigate or it is indeed the router. So to settle it once and for all I will change router but I'd like to get something decent despite the fact I thought the one I have is decent.I wish they would pull their fingers out of their arses and get fibreoptic down the street. The only other alternative is the monopolised cable company as I used them before and they are absolutely horrible and treat their customers like shit because they are the only cable company and they know it. Hopefully with the advent of fibre-optic there will be some proper competition for customer service.

author: Towger
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:19:45 pm
content: Cisco have APs which cost around a 1000 euro plus vat. For that price they would want to work.If you find something cheaper please let me know...As you know price is not everything. I once worked in a company with IBM PCs, connected to a IBM token ring network, running IBM Lan manager and a IBM mainframe. Dam thing never worked properly and the IBM experts flown in just blamed each other section of IBM.The other non IBM mainframe worked fine. Replace Lab manager with Novell, worked fine. Replace the expensive 16 m bit token ring cards, worked fine. Etc etc.In the end they chucked out IBM...

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:26:02 pm
content: I was thinking something under £100, i mean hec my cell phone can provide a better wifi network!

author: AF6LJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:28:25 pm
content: I'll keep my CAT-6 thank you very much.I'm an RF tech and wouldn't trust WiFi as far as I could throw it.Me thinks..Most of your problems are congested bands, there is no hope of ever fixing that except to plant yourself next to your wireless router.

author: Fsck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:32:20 pm
content: ubiquity makes awesome (I'd personally say, the best) wireless access points.add your own pfsense or sophos utm (free for home use) for NAT and you've got one the best setups around.if for some reason, you still insist on combining functions, you should probably look up Asus's consumer routers. certain models are considered to be pretty decent.as an example, I have previously picked up their rt-ac66u for my non-techie relatives since they're easy to set up and work well. haven't had any complaints yet.

author: alex89
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:35:00 pm
content: If your budget permits go for an Apple airport extreme, they are very well built and are extremely reliable

author: AF6LJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:36:58 pm
content: Quote from: Fsck on October 25, 2015, 09:32:20 pmThe Ubiquity routers are popular among amateur radio operators for their use in HAMNET mesh networks. Perhaps what the OP is looking for now that you bring these up is something that is Open WRT. There is an active community writing firmeare for those types of routers.

author: TheUnnamedNewbie
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:39:33 pm
content: I've had very good experience with the higher-end linksys models (wrt1900ac and ea8500). These however fall out of your budget, and I'm afraid I have no first-hand experience with their lower end models.I think given the budget, you should seriously look at just using cable. Wifi is a disaster, especially in dense urban environments (bands are pretty much all just congested).Perhaps getting an access point and keeping your current router will give you better results?Oh, and I'm going by the assumption you did the requisite "put it in a different place" and such to see it is in fact the router and not the environment it is in?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:40:55 pm
content: Quote from: free_electron on October 25, 2015, 09:14:09 pmDo all those Lenovos have Atheros wifi in them?Lenovo never, ever, ever ever ever ever update their drivers.. and the ones they ship are broken.Quote from: Simon on October 25, 2015, 09:17:51 pm*shudder*Frankly, if you're having problems using PLC, the problem is not wifi. It may be the router, but it's probably typical BT quality at work.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:48:34 pm
content: Quote from: free_electron on October 25, 2015, 09:14:09 pmMy sister's Dell came with a Centrino wifi module which had a lot of issues, swapping with a broadcom module (refurb units off ebay are cheap) fixed that.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:53:17 pm
content: Quote from: free_electron on October 25, 2015, 09:14:09 pmHave you tried wiggling the wifi on/off switch on the laptop a few times? I assume the contact goes bad over time, and the silly machine thinks I'm turning the wifi on and off frantically.My B570 lost the wifi continuously and the logs showed it was neither the router or some driver problem. So I just moved the switch back and forth a few times.Seems to work for now.

author: wreeve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:57:15 pm
content: Just bought a Billion 7800DXL....perfect :-)

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 09:59:48 pm
content: QuoteDo you want a quick fix or a working fix?If it's good fix then you should separate out the functions so you can fix each without affecting any of the others. With a wireless router you have to change the routing to fix the wifi, and vice versa, so you are limiting your possibile solution quite drastically. Much better to have a router (next to your incoming line) and separate wifi (position where it is best for wireless, not the incoming line).Further, what kind of line is it? That is, do you need a modem interface or is it presented as UTP (for instance, cable or FTTC). If the former, it would pay you to separate the modem and router functions, then you can have a decent router that never changes, and a cheap-as-chips modem that is disposable (for lightning strikes, ISP is suspicious of it, etc). With this kind of setup you can fix any problem without having mission creep.If that wets your fancy then you could do worse than look at pfSense (www.pfsense.com) and figure what you want to run it on. For the time being, just load it up onto a PC you're not using, or run it in a VM - later, once you're happy with it, you can offload to 'router' hardware if you want, but this way it costs you nothing to try.The modem part, if you need it, costs about a tenner. They are so simple even Netgear suff is fine. It will either work or it won't, and if it turns out to be one of those that needs resetting every other day just send it back and get a different one.For WiFi, same applies: just return ones that don't work until you get one that does. The Wifi and Modem ends of this setup are sacrificial after all - the magic is in the router part, which isn't affected by these. Having said that, if your router platform has WiFi you can use it with pfSense to have WiFi router (indeed, I use a pfSense router as a WiFi access point which replaces a not particularly good Linksys jobby). Again, utilise existing hardware and it costs you nothing to set this up.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 10:06:06 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on October 25, 2015, 09:17:51 pmAs a test, if you have a spare PC/laptop, run some flavour of live linux from a CD/DVD/USB and connect that directly to your ISP CPE ethernet. Then bring up a terminal window and ping google's DNS, 8.8.8.8, and observe latency times. With this setup, it eliminates the wifi and the TP-link router.I use and like Lubuntu 14.04 LTS. It fits on a CD or USB easily (700MB).

author: _Andrew_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 10:07:25 pm
content: Back in the yard I use ubiquiti wifi NanoBridge's AP's combined with Mikrotik router board (there are some poe managed switches as well). All of which I am very much happy with.http://www.wifi-stock.co.uk/products/routerboards-mikrotik.htmlhttp://www.wifi-stock.co.uk/details/mikrotik_rb2011uas-rm.htmlThe Mikrotik router boards do require a great deal of knowledge in setting up these devices but then these are a product intended for the commercial sector. But if you like playing with such there routerOS that ships with these units is a bit of a candy box of features.That brings me to domestic routers. I have used many over the years at home and I have to say there all some what pants. Currently using a TP-Link which will be going the way of the great recycler as it is becoming progressively unstable.I do wonder if the number of connected devices that are often found in homes these days maby be part of the problem and just making domestic routers work too hard.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 10:15:13 pm
content: Quote from: Marco on October 25, 2015, 09:48:34 pmApparently that's what is in the Lenovo's too. Internet forums are full of people complaining about dropped connections on those things.My HP has an Atheros , the Dell's here have Broadcomms. Zero problems.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 10:16:32 pm
content: On the whole the router seems to work. I am using ethernet over power to connect my main PC. Usually the connection is fine or rather average for this area but then occasionally gets quite bad. The phone company are blaming my router, of course it has to be my equipment and not theirs.I'm not overly impressed with the combination of this router and my Wi-Fi dongle anyway and it's been a couple of years so as much as I hate wasting equipment I will try the upgrade.My main problem is that I cannot get my franking machine to connect to its server. So I don't know if there are latency issues causing a problem. But for some reason this machine which works on probably 1980s connectivity technology is having problems with my broadband which is probably orders of magnitude faster than it actually requires.But difficulties with my franking machine do seem to go in parallel with dodgy days on the Internet. Today at the same time I was contemplating getting out a big hammer to smash the dam franking machine up with I was only getting an Internet speed of 2.8 Mb per second on my PC which later turned to 5.8 Mb per second and later this evening after complaining my ping has gone back down. So I will get the router and if I still have problems I will kick up such a stink and asked them to pay for the router if it turns out to be a line problem.I'm not buying another TP link it a pile of shit and their dongle was just pure excrement too.I have used net gear in the past without any problems so I'm considering netgear and spending just under £80.As for the Wi-Fi itself reasonable as it is around here it is a very congested area because I live on a corner and there is also a road round the back that backs onto me so 2.4 GHz band is pretty congested. Which is why I would like to buy a router that this time does actually work on 5 GHz like it claims so that I can get some cleaner air space.At the end of the day I still could not get franking machine to work even when plugged into a laptop which was plugged straight into the router on ethernet.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 10:23:51 pm
content: Asus any good ?:http://www.broadbandbuyer.co.uk/products/11867-asus-rt-n66u/

author: _Andrew_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 10:27:10 pm
content: Found these wifi AP's work well. It is just a little bit bigger than a smoke detector fits to the ceiling / wall ecthttp://www.wifi-stock.co.uk/details/uap_pro.html

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 10:32:01 pm
content: hm did someone say that linksy is good ?:http://www.broadbandbuyer.co.uk/products/16816-linksys-ea6900-uk/

author: _Andrew_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 10:36:50 pm
content: I have used these Asus units and have found that they do get upset if too many devices are connected on the wifi side of things, so frequent rebooting.

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 10:37:22 pm
content: QuoteI would suspect that - someone turns a ketlle on for coffee and you can find your signal being trashed. Importantly, it is a single broadcast domain, so if you have one thing doing a big download, everything else using EoP is sharing that bandwidth.But... maybe your PC only uses that and your franking machine uses wifi? Who knows? Well, obviously you do but we don't. So far all I see is people saying stuff that worked for them will sort you out, be we have no idea of your network topology so how can anyone say X will fix it when we don't know what or where the problem is?Maybe you could describe it a bit better - ideally a drawing would be good, but what connects to what, and through with medium?

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 10:46:22 pm
content: Do you have an old computer lying around that has WIFI of some sort? Have a look at PFSense. If your computer is still reliable then this is a great platform.https://www.pfsense.org/

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 10:46:47 pm
content: I just have my PC on the ethernet overpower connection and my laptop uses the Wi-Fi along with my mobile phone. Nothing that complicated really. Franking machine has a USB port so I plug it into my laptop and I assume the software in the computer creates a virtual phone line for the franking machine to communicate with. I have a 50-50 success rate with the franking machine making a connection. It does seem to get worse when I'm having other Internet slowdowns.I don't know if it's related to the computer or my connection but YouTube can be variable it's been working a lot better lately. But if I want to listen to the BBC via the Internet live is a problem but catch up staff is not. So I don't know what the problem is. It could be a dicky line which nobody wants to admit to or it could be my router is misfiring. I'm not really asking that much of it I am the only one in the house using it. When I spoke to the phone company this evening they said that they were picking up thousands of errors on my connection. Obviously they won't admit to it being the line. So if I am going to play along with them and by another router I'd like to buy something that is good that works and that I like.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 10:53:54 pm
content: Quote from: Lightages on October 25, 2015, 10:46:22 pmI'm not going to start setting up additional PCs just to run an Internet connection. I'm not really sure what that project darts other than be a firewall solution. I don't particularly need a firewall I just want a router which works and more importantly a router and Wi-Fi dongle solution which works as so far while the router may have been okay Wi-Fi dongle is are absolutely crap so I've ended up with ethernet over Power. Fortunately my laptop seems to work with Wi-Fi but then there seems to be written legally little problem somewhere that is causing a problem for my franking machine usually when the Internet speed is a bit low anyway. It will also be nice to be able to watch YouTube and listen to live radio without any stuttering, and by stuttering when it comes to the BBC that means seconds at a time without any audio despite the fact it only radio. I couldn't watch live TV on this Internet connection if I wanted to. Hopefully fibre-optic will get here one day

author: _Andrew_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 11:02:00 pm
content: Not just things switching on and of disturbing EoP. Power quality is over the last 15 years is becoming a far greater issue. With ever more devices introducing active harmonic components it can have all sorts of undesirable effects.Compact fluorescent bulbs, Led lamps, inverter microwaves, switch mode power supplies, inverter motor speed controllers going in to just about everything.....

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 11:10:23 pm
content: Stay way from the following brands, no exceptionsTP-LINKD-LinkTendaSMCThe following brands i have used before with no issues related to WIFI.CISCOLinksysNetgearDrayTek*List not in any order

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 12:10:52 am
content: Notwithstanding the need for more configuration, the most flexible approach is to use separate modem, router and access points.Some newbies may get confused with bridge mode and NATting, but the end result is a modular, easy to diagnose solution with each device doing what does best - and individual elements can be upgraded separately.

author: AF6LJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 12:44:33 am
content: Quote from: SL4P on October 26, 2015, 12:10:52 amI have to agree; the network here is built that way.It starts out with;A dedicated castoff PC running Smoothwall firewall / router software.A decent Ethernet switch follows that.When we need wireless connectivity there is a higher end Netgear wireless router that sees little use I might point out. The Netgear only gets turned on when neede.Everything else including printers gets hard wired.One last comment;In regards to quality of life, people seem to be happier on the whole if you have to go to a separate room for the computer, people actually talk to each other at the supper table.

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 01:10:11 am
content: I quite like my Netgear R7000 running Tomato shibby. It has a 512gig ssd connected that it shares locally. It also handles all torrent upload/downloads without breaking a sweat.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 02:09:27 am
content: Quote from: free_electron on October 25, 2015, 10:15:13 pmThe infuriating thing was that the original Windows 8 drivers which shipped with Windows were fine, but everything after that kept disconnecting. So I reverted it, cursed a bit at the fact that this was pointed out to Intel a million times and they still didn't revert to the old working code and forgot about it. Then Windows 8.1 rolls around and the driver model changed and I could only use drivers in which Intel persisted to ship broken code.In short, Centrino Wifi chipsets, not even once. There's something fundamentally broken with that team at Intel, if it works it's by accident. Avoid.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 03:24:59 am
content: Quote from: Simon on October 25, 2015, 10:23:51 pmi have this router and I am pleased with it. I am using it about 4 months now. I have a 35 Mbps connection and have typical daytime speeds right at 35 Mbps, the evenings don't slow down much. I am using the 2.4 Gig connection. I also live in a quiet subdivision and there are only a couple of Wi-Fi networks within range.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 06:22:08 am
content: I don't want seperate devices I'm a below aveage home user. I just want my connection to work and I'm being told it's my routers fault.The biggest problem with tp link I have is the stupidshit wifi donlgles

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 06:47:13 am
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on October 26, 2015, 03:24:59 ami have to share with over 10 people so a free channel just does not exist, usually 3-5 people are on the same band and no doubt all their equipment is on autopilot so trying to find a free band and stick to it will be pointless.

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 06:48:47 am
content: QuoteEver considered that "I don't want seperate devicesI'm abew aveage home user" is not compatible with " I just want my connection to work"? Imagine if some electronics 'average home user' tried that on you - "I don't want to replace my PoS flaky test leads; I just want it to work."

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 06:52:42 am
content: Quote from: dunkemhigh on October 26, 2015, 06:48:47 amI don't think the vast majority of equipment would be single device/multifunctional if the concept does not work. On the whole i have not hat problems and it is still in diubt that the router is the problem although it's companion dongles are crap. so i might as well change.

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 08:13:11 am
content: More of a general comment here: my business is very dependent on the Internet, so I have two lines from two providers, one is Virgin cable and the other is an ADSL line. I use a Draytek (supposedly handles automatic failover, never got that to work though, I have to manually failover) plus two additional APs all on 2.4GHz and 5GHz on appropriate channels across the 3 bed flat that's about 1000sq feet.The biggest problem I ever faced has been the noise floor rising on 2.4GHz. The way I resolved this has been a mixture of CAT6 wired connections and filling in with the extra APs. Even running Ethernet over power lines is hit and miss I found, I have a box of associated wall warts to prove it.The primary Virgin line, although impressive at over 150Mbps downstream, regrettably goes down about once a month at the moment, I don't know what Virgin is doing. It usually fixes itself magically, I've pretty much given up calling to flag the fault unless it lasts more than half a day.Regarding WiFi on 5GHz, I find it frustratingly unreliable outside of the room the AP's in, it's no magic bullet.In short, get an ISP backup, wire everything you can with CAT5/6 (I use the flat ethernet cable tucked into carpet edges between rooms so no hole drilling required), and swamp your location with APs.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 08:14:07 am
content: If you have to compete with lots of other users on the band then maybe you should look for a higher power router.Something that outputs 200mW instead of the usual 60mW

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 08:27:45 am
content: Quote from: Simon on October 26, 2015, 06:47:13 amThere is no router which will work decently in such conditions, even ultra expensive. Trying different channels is worth though, some will work better than others. Also, if you select "auto", very often that means channel 6 or something similar, if the most routers around are set to "auto" you will have a big trouble.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 10:30:27 am
content: Quote from: Psi on October 26, 2015, 08:14:07 amWe are not allowed such high transmit power levels.

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 10:56:51 am
content: Have you looked at the WiFi channels with an analyser to see if they are indeed all occupied? You can get a smartphone app that will do this for you.

author: hli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 11:51:19 am
content: Quote from: _Andrew_ on October 25, 2015, 10:07:25 pmI too have heard only good words about the Mikrotik routers. They should be fairly fast and come with their RouterOS which allows for a flexible setup (e.g. seehAP access point. I don't own one, but I'm thinking of getting aRB2011UiAS-2HnD-INbecause my old router (a WNR3500L with DD-WRT installed) is probably not fast enough for the fast internet connection I'm about to get (and Mikrotik even states the throughput you get on their routers). The prices seem very reasonable for what they provide.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 12:44:52 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on October 26, 2015, 08:14:07 amHelps with distance, but won't allow you to take a greater percentage of the timeslots AFAICS.

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 01:09:49 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on October 26, 2015, 06:52:42 amUnrelated - but i think that's why they sell Camrys...It's supposed to make it 'easy', but it doesn't do 'everything' very well. They work fine, but are not a ute, truck, sports car, or limo. A pedestrian choice for people that don't --- want to make the effort, or know what they need.

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 03:37:56 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on October 26, 2015, 08:14:07 amIncreasing power at the router is not reciprocal.Just like there's an increased density of cellphone sites in higher demand urban locations, increasing your own AP density will help to combat interference from other co-channel APs which are raising you local noise floor.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 03:44:14 pm
content: I've installed several dual band TP-Link routers running OpenWrt. Works great, no issues.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 04:15:07 pm
content: If you are congested in the Wifi bands simply get a new router without wifi ( or turn it off), and wire the old wifi unit into bridge mode, and put some CAT6 cable to place it as close as possible to your main work area. If you need power to it use a second cable, and cut the power cord and use those 4 pairs as power leads so it will be close. High up and as close as possible, if it is on the floor in a cellar no work, and then all you are out is the new 10 pound Billion router, and a few metres of cable and 2 crimp on connectors, plus a screw to hold the darn thing up by the one hole.Lose the Poor Orrid performance Equipment, either use a cable through the wall, or string it along a picture rail around the room to the PC.As to Lenovo, the wireless performance can best be described as shyte, my one is always either connected via a cable, or I tether the phone to it and use that. Made no difference using the original Win7 drivers, or the ones that Debian uses for the chipset, it just is poor. If it connected and would stay connected for 10 minutes that would have been a miracle, even after turning off all encryption and leaving the router wide open ( and watching for the connections as well) with the laptop sitting 1m away from it.Might be better now, my sister's Lenovo connects to the Billion wireless reasonably well, and works well enough for her, with the scan only showing 5 local AP's around.

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 04:23:18 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on October 25, 2015, 09:40:55 pmRealtek USB crap.

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 04:28:01 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on October 26, 2015, 08:14:07 amThe laptop will still transmit at low power, and you're not suggesting improvements in the antennas, so it won't do much good.I'd start switching to 5GHz, specially if you don't use concrete walls.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 04:30:47 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on October 26, 2015, 04:15:07 pmI doubt it has much to do with Lenovo's design, the modules and the way they are mounted in a laptop is pretty standardized. You have to try hard to screw that up.If you have a Centrino N-2230 throw it at an Intel engineer and just get something else (I gotthis one).

author: eas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 04:46:05 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on October 26, 2015, 10:30:27 amWhich is good, because it is one of the most foolish things you can do to try to "solve" interference with other nearby WiFi access points. Doing so pretty much ensures that your neighbors will try to escalate. Some of them may do it with a hack to override firmware limits, which is likely to lead to a louder more distorted signal. Whatever they do, any advantage one gains will be short lived.If negotiating with neighbors around a better channel allocation is impossible or undesirable, then getting a working 5GHz solution is a much better route. Their are fewer 5GHz devices, more bandwidth/channels available (in the US, at least), and because the range is somewhat lower, less chance of interference from nearby APs.Beyond that, putting your AP on the same channel as other APs in the area can actually be more reliable, because in that situation, the competing APs should actually listen for one another and avoid transmitting over eachother, whereas picking a different (but overlapping channel) will just lead to bandwidth killing interference.As for what router. I've been using a now obsolete Netgear WNDR3800 (same basic hardware as the WNDR3700) running OpernWRT for years and it has worked well. One of the nice things about OpenWRT is that it implements proper QoS techniques for the broadband connection. You do have to configure it with the right upstream rate, but once you've done so, it provides consistent, low, ping times even when a big upload is running.I have a TPLink Archer C7 running OpenWRT yet that I haven't deployed yet. What model TP-Link router do you have? You might try running OpenWRT on it if it is compatible.If I were going to buy something that I wanted confidence would work without a lot of tinkering, I'd probably get an Apple AirPort Extreme or Express. We are a mostly Apple house though, but compatibility with other devices should be quite good. You can probably find a refurb in your price range.

author: eas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 05:28:27 pm
content: Quote from: Howardlong on October 26, 2015, 03:37:56 pmYup, though if they are on the same channel, rather than just an overlapping channel, they will try to practice collision detection/avoidance. This mitigates the loss of bandwidth due to rising noise floor, at the expense of adding another source of latency. It also has its limited, since the transmitter may not be able to "hear" another transmitter closer to the intended receiver.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 05:32:24 pm
content: Quote from: deephaven on October 26, 2015, 10:56:51 amYes I've looked with issider

author: dexters_lab
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 27, 2015, 11:44:29 am
content: i have used DD-WRT flashed onto Linksys routers for over 10 years, they never need rebooting. When my internet craps out it's always the virgin media supplied modem (well actually virgin superhub running in modem mode).currently using a linksys E2000 with DD-WRT on itnote that most of the supported dd-wrt devices are only routers, so if your on DSL you will probably need a modem as well

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2015, 03:22:05 pm
content: Another strong vote here for Apple AirPort Extreme. They're not cheap, but they are reliable. They don't have every conceivable advanced setting, but they are reliable. They use an annoying native app (Mac/Win/iOS) for configuration, but they are reliable. They have very good wireless performance, and they are reliable. See a pattern here?After having nothing but problems with D-Link, Netgear, and Linksys (both stock firmware and DD-WRT), I threw in the towel and switched to Apple wireless gear, and it's been smooth sailing.Also, if you use Macs, the AirPort devices have a neat feature: Bonjour Sleep Proxy, which let's your Macs' server services stay online even after the machine goes to sleep, and just wakes it on demand when you try to connect. Very clever power saving feature.If you're not willing to go with bona fide enterprise wifi gear (like the uni-fy mentioned before), then go with Apple.

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2015, 06:17:22 pm
content: I use a Linksys/Cisco E2000 as my router and a WiFi access point. It is in 5 GHz mode (it's dual band but not simultaneous). It works well and I basically never need to reboot it. I may have rebooted it six months ago. I can't remember. I use its QOS to give high priority to my devices that use netflix so that streaming is good quality even when some other device is downloading. In two other rooms, I have routers set up as wireless access points connected to ethernet. You can useanywireless router as a basic wireless access point ... all that you need to do is assign them a static LAN side IP, turn off the DHCP, configure wireless, and plug a LAN port into Ethernet. The WAN port is not used (unless it has a bridge mode which is very uncommon). I have them all set to the same SSID/key so that roaming between them is automatic. I have no dead spots and get good performance. I only use my WiFi for handheld devices and a laptop or two. Everything critical is on a GbE wired network. I was fortunate that when my house was built they used Cat-5e for all the phone drops around the house, each coming back to a central point in the basement. All I needed to do is pull the faceplates off and install a RJ-45 jack, crimp some RJ-45s to the cables in the basement, and voila: house-wide GbE network.Like almost everyone, I suffered from cluttered 2.4 GHz airspace. I could see 30+ networks scattered around all the channels. There was no 'free' spectrum to use and WiFi performance was terrible. I switched to 5 GHz years ago, and promptly discovered that I needed to use the lower-range frequencies of ~5.2 GHz not the ~5.8 Ghz ones as my ten-handset cordless phone system uses a wide swath of 5.8 GHz air. Everything works great now.Very recently, I scanned the 2.4 GHz band and discovered to my great surprise thatall30+ networks are on channels 1, 6, or 11. Not a single rogue. This is amazing, it means that the 2.4 Ghz band might actually be usable for once, as there will be no interference from networks on adjacent channels - everything should, in theory, share the airtime relatively well.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2015, 06:56:22 am
content: Maybe try putting as many stationary devices on wired/Homeplug/wifi over coax as you can?

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2015, 09:36:20 am
content: Quote from: Psi on October 25, 2015, 11:10:23 pmI don't agree with all TP-Links being bad.My 4300 (dualband) ia behaving quite nice on both bands.The 2.4Ghz is a little weaker than my old WRT54G , but still quite ok./Bingo

author: lukaq
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2015, 10:40:07 am
content: have a look at Mikrotik routers, or somewhere to run their RouterOS...or PfSense..as far as most standard routers go, some work, some don't, really hit or miss.. no matter if it is brand name or not, really depends on model and your environment

author: kaz911
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2015, 08:43:22 am
content: I have a bunch of routers...1. Mikrotik - great routers - if you have a routing protocol degree.I used them a lot in the middle east to set up segmented VPN access to circumvent local blacking rules. (ip x.x.x.1 - x.x.x.125 -> local) anything else via VPN.But for " normal " home use - stay away - lots of bugs - lack of release procedures means MikroTik fixes a bug - and then quite likely re-introduce it later on again and again and again. Don't update firmware on release but wait at LEAST 4 weeks and keep an eye on the forum...2. Ubiquity Unify - UAP Pro - GREAT - anything 802.11ac - absolutely terrible coverage and they often " don't " tell the truth in the spec sheets. My 802.11ac (UAP AC) are limited to 22dB at 5GHz despite spec sheet promise 28 dB - and that is not due to local restrictions but due to overheating issues. Similar issues on the 2.4 GHz band but not as bad (you get 2dB more - but that is a problem as 2.4GHz has longer range than 5 GHz so chances of getting high speed 802.11ac diminish very quickly with distance) - Control software with v4.4 has also become very bloated as they are trying to implement VoIP, Switching, Video surveillance and router control in ONE package.Best 802.11AC access point I have found - Apple.. Best signal availability - great 802.11ac support - fast - and not obtrusive - and no need for a degree in routers to set it up.

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2015, 07:26:35 am
content: Quote from: kaz911 on November 02, 2015, 08:43:22 amYou said anything 802.11ac? Does that include the new and cheaper ones they recently introduced - the UniFi AP AC-Lite, UniFi AP AC LR and UniFi AP AC Pro? I'm really interested in how these might perform in a large new house with a whole lot of steel in its concrete frame.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2015, 11:18:23 am
content: Quote from: coppice on November 04, 2015, 07:26:35 amI haven't upgraded to AC yet (I'm on dual-band N), but reinforced concrete is a nightmare for Wi-Fi. I have a 60m2 apartment and to get adequate Wi-Fi, I need two routers, so I have gigabit Ethernet running through the walls. (Devices with really good Wi-Fi reception did OK with just one, but poorer receivers simply didn't get a good connection.)Of course, it also depends on what the Wi-Fi landscape around there is. This is an urban apartment, so there are tons and tons of competing 2.4GHz networks congesting the space. 5GHz is pretty much entirely vacant, but it simply won't penetrate concrete enough.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2015, 11:25:18 am
content: Quote from: eas on October 26, 2015, 04:46:05 pmThat's what the china 2W active WiFi antenna amps are for. M.A.DBut seriously, a 200mW AP is not excessively high power.When access points first appeared for sale they were all in the 100-200mW range. All the cheap multifunction consumer router+AP devices that appeared later set the standard of ~60mW.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2015, 11:49:00 am
content: Quote from: Psi on November 04, 2015, 11:25:18 am60mW?!? That's nothing! The Apple ones I have (5th gen AirPort Extreme)transmit at 257-392mW, depending on band/mode.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2015, 02:12:00 pm
content: In Europe putting even 100 mW into a >0 dBi antenna is illegal AFAIK (directionality doesn't allow you to increase EIRP, so legally high dBi antennas are useless except for saving some power).

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2015, 02:43:51 pm
content: Quote from: Marco on November 04, 2015, 02:12:00 pmThere are some special rules for the 5GHz band in the EU:- channels 35-64, indoor usage: max 200mW- channels 100-140, DFS & TPC: max 1000mW- channels 155-171, requires registration: max 4W (might be Germany only)A directional antenna is NOT useless, since it supresses signals from other directions and has a higher receive gain too. And turning down the output power of your WLAN in combination with a high gain antenna has another positive impact. The RF amp creates less noise while the high gain antenna doesn't increase the noise. So you get a better S/N ratio.

author: kaz911
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2015, 05:22:06 pm
content: Quote from: coppice on November 04, 2015, 07:26:35 amAll the new ones are lower speck - at least on paper vs paper. I would wait. They are too new and possibly far to many firmware bugs. UBNT excels in firmware bugs like Mikrotik.Actually my Apple AC AP puts out about 28 dBm at 5 GHz and so far have the best range.

author: kaz911
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2015, 05:29:01 pm
content: Quote from: coppice on November 04, 2015, 07:26:35 ambtw for 802.11ac current version - estimate to use about 4 times as many AP's as for 802.11n on 2.4 GHz.But then you run in to the absolute limited available number of transmission channels to work around interference. If you want the 1300 Mbps - then each " channel " uses total of 4 bundled channels to archive it. That means usually you will only have 1 to 2 channels in total available for 802.11 AC 1300 - if you don't want any overlap. 802.11ac is a jungle with plenty of wrong spec sheets and lots of things " not said or mentioned " like lack of DFS support in UBNT units - which takes out about 1/2 the available channels. DFS is something many does not support. DFS is " weather radar protection " they claimIf you want rock solid - then Unify UAP Pro is great - good range - great output - up to REAL 28 dBm.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2015, 05:49:13 pm
content: Quote from: kaz911 on November 02, 2015, 08:43:22 amSo the mikrotiks are still difficult?, I used mikrotik software on an old computer for many years ago, but dropped it because it was kinda difficult to change configurations, reminded me about the old cisco routers.I wanted to buy an mikrotik now, to replace my linksys (somehow my android doen't like my current wifi router anymore after upgrading to android 5..), and use mikrotik rb2011uias-rm or something similar to that, together with an unifi ac pro wifi accesspoint...Seems like my plans have to change

author: kaz911
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2015, 06:44:35 pm
content: Quote from: neslekkim on November 04, 2015, 05:49:13 pmonly buy Mikrotik if you are trying to solve a problem you would have used Cisco IOS to solve. They can both do a lot - Mikrotik just does it ultra low cost. But with lot's of bugs. I can't tell you home many times they have fck PPTP VPN's, Stats, Sensors, script compatibility - so much I sometimes does think they are Microsoft. And it is not just once. Then they fix it - and by magic same issue comes back 2 releases later - or even 10 releases later. Which is usually a sign of lack of (or bad) comments in the codebase...

author: mich41
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2015, 02:47:55 pm
content: You say that things are onlyslightlybetter if you use ethernet?Some TP-Links (possibly others) have buggy hardware NAT acceleration, which affects wired machines as well - try disabling it.BTW, it would take 10 minutes to connect a laptop directly to the PPPoE modem (or whatever else you have) and find out whether it's the router's or ISP's fault.