hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Create 9v from two 3.6v Lithium Batteries? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: THATguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2017, 01:35:39 am
content: Is it possible to make 9v (or close enough) from two 3.6v Lithium batteries using a Joule Thief circuit?

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2017, 01:43:06 am
content: It could be done using a boost converter, but there may be no point.Fully charged you would have about 8.4 V, and discharged you would have about 7.2 V. This is within the range of operation of a 9 V battery, so many things that use a 9 V battery would work fine without any boosting required.

author: THATguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2017, 02:08:59 am
content: Oh that's even better.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2017, 07:37:41 am
content: Quote from: THATguy on June 26, 2017, 02:08:59 amWhat do you want to power?Ian is right. 9V batteries have a fairly wide voltage range, from 9.6V when fully charged and no load, to 6V when flat with the maximum current drawn. Properly designed appliances will be able to operate over this voltage range.

author: THATguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2017, 12:41:29 am
content: Well it's a metal detecting pointer. So it may not even require 9vI'm in the process of reverse engineering the pcb, so I can figure out how much it actually draws.I the reason I wanted to change to Lithium rechargeable is to change the dimentions of the pointer.

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 03, 2017, 02:18:33 am
content: no need to reverse engineer or take it apart.Just hook it up to a benchtop power supply and turn down the voltage until it stops working properly.

author: THATguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2017, 09:04:07 am
content: I need to rebuild it for changing the PCB shape.Also like to redesign it too. - remove a few unneccessary bits.
Create a basic circuit need help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: montenegrin_tourist
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 31, 2017, 06:01:35 pm
content: Hello dear friends I need help. My task is to create a circuit that transforms input current from 4 to 20 mA to 0-5V voltage at the outside. I should use OPs, resistors or CFBs. Please help exam tomorrow yes

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2017, 07:40:51 pm
content: Did you try to Google for '4-20ma to 0-5v converter circuit'. I did and got over 3 million replies. Basically, it takes 2 op amps and a hand full of resistors.https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQrpgUwL--_ir1XlCzCIzLoyvbQM5LYvVuUinPSX2qf9XHU5tJu

author: Kire Pûdsje
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2017, 09:04:47 pm
content: If a burden voltage is allowed, either just use a resistor to convert current to voltage and use a summing amplifier with an offset voltage.Since this is an exam question, I think the concept is purely theoretical and a burden voltage is not allowed.I guess you have been taught all the basic nullor circuits. Just use the concept for a transimpedance amplifier, either with an offset current at the input, or compensated for the offset at the output.Edit, if you are really looking for the bare minimum, (which is not the intention, I think) a single voltage supply with a single resistor is sufficient

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2017, 05:14:16 am
content: If your device is the unique device on the loop a simple 250 ohms resistor will do the job to 1 a 5 V converter ( you can remove the 1V on software on the other side )
Create a fast Open circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Htow77
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 14, 2024, 07:42:01 pm
content: Hi,I want the possibility to create a (quick) open circuit on a signal wire used for automotive CAN. Reason for all this is im an automotive technical trainer and want to simulate an intermittent harness or connector fault.The function should be just like a momentary NC switch: The circuit is normally intact, with a fast push on the switch it becomes open and then back to closed again. While the switch function is working, the actual switching using a mechanical switch isn’t clean (Quick) enough.An NC relay would also work but it’s to slow to react.I would like to use a “transistor-like” component to achive a clean switching, but which component?I’m looking for something I can control but is not affecting the actual circuit.An opto coupler function would do, but again that would affect the circuit I want to make the intermittent open on.Is there any analogue component like an opto coupler but with an NC switch instead of the built in transistor??Grateful for any tips!

author: BennoG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2024, 07:46:43 pm
content: My opinion is that you can better use a relays.Because that gives the nice dender (don't know English word) on the contacts when opening and closing.They open and close not at once but make some high frequency contacts.This is the same as a lose wire, only the wire is worse.Benno

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2024, 07:59:27 pm
content: If you were to use a changeover signal relay and parallel the NC and NO contact, you should get a brief interruption as the relay transitions from one to the other. With a small signal relay, the interruption should be in the low milliseconds range. You will get a little contact bounce too of course. If you vary the coil operating voltage, you may even get a limited adjustment of contact interruption time.P.S. Welcome to the forum.

author: S. Petrukhin
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2024, 09:18:32 am
content: Probably the best option would be an optocoupler that contains a field-effect transistor, a low-power solid-state relay.For example: Cosmo Electronics KAQY212Ahttps://www.lcsc.com/datasheet/lcsc_datasheet_2304140030_Cosmo-Electronics-KAQY212A_C194713.pdf
Create a prototype based on Fluke RF303 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: JCSLO
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 27, 2025, 09:09:33 am
content: Hello,I am on an internship right now (in a laboratory), and my mentor asked me to create a prototype that analyzes HF leakage current in an ESU (electric surgical unit). The prototype needs to be powered by 3.7V batteries (5 batteries in all). Even if I'm doing a master's in electrical engineering, I never did that before (at least I used a little KiCad, but nothing more). So I'm a little bit lost, and basically I don't know where to go. But the main problem is I don't know how to verify what I have done for the moment. I created some schematics on KiCad, but I don't know how to be sure it is working.So if you have got any ideas on how to do it (or want to help), that would be great! I will be very thankful.The device I try to recreate: Fluke RF303 (only user manual, without any schematics or other)The device I will use with my prototype: Surtron HP380The idea is to connect the prototype to the ESU, and use push buttons to select the input resistor. The large resistors on the other side of the Arduino are there to lower the voltage so that we can measure it afterwards. Then there's a comparator that passes the signal through the mosfet if it's big enough, and through the op amp if it's too small. Finally, there's an AD637 that converts the input voltage into an RMS signal, which is sent back to the Arduino.At the top right of the main circuit is the LCD screen and the bus for reading current and power.I have posted a screenshot of what I have done so far on KiCad.Thanks for your help!

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2025, 11:35:03 am
content: I'm not sure what's in an ESU or which currents from it you want to monitor, but do you have any circuit simulators like LTSpice, or TINA ? LTSpice is free, and fairly easy to learn the basics of. They won't simulate the MCU tho, there are other programs for that. But MCU sim programs, at least any I've seen, aren't great at analog circuits.Also for the LM393, it can only sink current, it needs a pull-up resistor to go high. IDK what that MOSFET would be doing.
Create a pulsed (long dwell time) noise function with my Siglent SDG1032X - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sailah
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2022, 01:50:50 pm
content: Forgive the complete lack of experience here.I have a Siglent SDG 1032X(2 channel function generator). I'm looking to test a device by creating a custom function. My generator has a noise waveform that sounds pretty close to what I am looking to create. When I max out the FG, stdev is 2.076V.But what I want to do is have the FG output, NOISE for 3 secs, dwell at "0" for 8 secs, NOISE at 3 secs, dwell at 0 for 8 secs. Repeat. My device is detecting the differential and counting. So it should read 5 cycles after 60 secs. Precision is not needed here, if it's 4-6 that's fine too.I got a close approximation using Sweep square wave with an 11 sec sweep time and square wave. But it wasn't exactly what I wanted.Level 2 would be creating a function with adjustable parameters like a NOISE (0.5-5secs) DWELL (1 sec to 60 secs), DWELL at "0-10" and even have some randomness in there. But for now just creating a repeating noise pattern is what I would like.I understand there's a pulsed gate feature that I should read up on but my brain was hoping there was a simpler way to create this in Excel or software and just output to FG with USB?Thx

author: mawyatt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2022, 05:10:45 pm
content: Don't have a SDG1032X but on our SDG2042X Noise Waveform Modulation is not allowed, and error message pops up when attempting "modulation" when the noise waveform is selected as the base waveform.Best,

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2022, 08:12:23 pm
content: You should be able to find the features you need in the Burst menu.

author: sailah
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2022, 08:58:53 pm
content: Quote from: mawyatt on March 16, 2022, 05:10:45 pmYeah I get the same thingQuote from: tautech on March 16, 2022, 08:12:23 pmLooked there. When I set burst period to 8 secs, and then listen through an ultrasonic probe, the noise is just continuous. When I set waveform to square I can get an 8 sec pulse. Not ideal but if that's all I can do then I guess I have to live with it.

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2022, 10:19:55 pm
content: Is this only within the audio spectrum?? If so you can create that waveform with many of the editing programs (I use CoolEdit) like 'Sound Forge' and so forth. Choices of white, pink, brown, etc. exist on those clients. You could even create the wave files you like in different variations and burn them to a CDR.
Create Female Connectors For Old Hardware? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: gudenau
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2017, 02:52:55 am
content: I would like to make an adapter to allow some the memory cards and controllers of an old game console to be used on a computer, primarily for emulation purposes but could be used for native applications. My main dilemma at the moment is the lack of info I am able to find on creating the required female connectors. For the controllers I could chop up extension cables, but I can not find any sort of device that I could use to get the connectors from other than the console. I would much rather be able to make my own for use with this over cannibalizing original hardware.How could I make female connectors for this? I know the basics, you have the springy contacts that are in the middle and press against the card when inserted. I just do not know where to start with that and I have been unable to find any info on someone doing this already.Any help would be appreciated.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2017, 03:22:03 am
content: Perhaps upload a picture of the connector? it may be available under some obscure part number,

author: gudenau
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2017, 05:27:37 pm
content: Quote from: Rerouter on June 18, 2017, 03:22:03 amThis was the best I could find, even though it's crappy it might help.

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2017, 06:30:42 pm
content: Quote from: gudenau on June 18, 2017, 05:27:37 pmA bit crappy........well try invisible

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2017, 08:42:22 pm
content: you used a game-boy camera for added retro-effect?

author: gudenau
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2017, 09:03:08 pm
content: Quote from: fourtytwo42 on June 18, 2017, 06:30:42 pmQuote from: stj on June 18, 2017, 08:42:22 pmSorry, I do not have the actual bit to take the console apart. But I have found pinouts and there should be enough info from homebrew and emulators to get an interface working for it. It is more or less SPI, so that should be fairly easy to implement via software.

author: skarecrow
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2017, 10:03:11 pm
content: Quote from: stj on June 18, 2017, 08:42:22 pmI honestly thought that was a Gameboy Color screenshot shrunk down to the size of an icon.Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
Create Interrupt Routine within IAR Embedded Workbench - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: soFPG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2018, 01:46:40 pm
content: Someone here who works with the IAR Embedded Workbench for ARM? I am stuck with this code, the interrupt function is never called:Code:#include "stm32f10x.h"void TIM2_IRQHandler (void) {TIM2->SR &=~TIM_SR_UIF;GPIOC->ODR |= GPIO_ODR_ODR13;}void timer2_setup() {RCC->APB1ENR |= RCC_APB1ENR_TIM2EN;TIM2->PSC = 0;TIM2->ARR = 900;TIM2->DIER |= TIM_DIER_UIE;NVIC_EnableIRQ(TIM2_IRQn);TIM2->CR1 = TIM_CR1_CEN;}int main(){/* Set System-Clock as high as possible */RCC->CFGR = RCC_CFGR_SW_1 | RCC_CFGR_PLLMULL_3 | RCC_CFGR_PLLMULL_2 | RCC_CFGR_PLLMULL_0;RCC->CR = RCC_CR_HSION | RCC_CR_PLLON;/* Set GPIO C13 as High-Speed PushPull output */RCC->APB2ENR = RCC_APB2ENR_IOPCEN;GPIOC->CRH |= GPIO_CRH_MODE13_1 | GPIO_CRH_MODE13_0;__enable_irq();timer2_setup();GPIOC->ODR &=~GPIO_ODR_ODR13;while(1){asm volatile ("nop");}}There has to be a certain way how to define interrupt functions in IAR, I just didn't find it yet.
Create rotating magnetic field ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Nhan95
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2015, 02:00:56 pm
content: Hi. I know they usually create rotating magnetic field by 3 phase current ? But how to do it with 1 phase current ?

author: jeroen79
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2015, 02:33:02 pm
content: Make it DC and then generate multiple sinus signals with equal amplitude and period but differing phases.Or place a magnet or coil on a turntable.What do you want to use it for?

author: Nhan95
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2015, 02:39:08 pm
content: I am just curious about it, jeroen79

author: Excavatoree
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2015, 03:23:24 pm
content: http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_13/9.html
Creating a battery cutoff circuit from scratch? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: vortexnl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2013, 12:23:47 pm
content: I'd like to create a battery cutoff circuit for a LiPo battery or maybe even some NiCd cells, but I don't want to search around the internet for an IC (I live in europe and don't like waiting for parts)Anyways, I'm not quite sure how to build this from electronic parts, my guess was that I need to compare the voltage from the battery to a known reference voltage, but that takes power, and you probably need to reduce power consumption in order not to drain the battery! Can anyone give me some ideas on how I could accomplish this? Many thanks, Nick

author: CarlG
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2013, 02:05:36 pm
content: If you want to cut off the power you obviously already have some load to cut off, and that load draws some power, right? So what's the problem if you add power for the supervision circuitry? Besides, I guess that the internal battery leakage current is not much less than what a uPower supervisory circuit may draw.If I understand your problem correct, you first need a power switch (check Dave's blog), combined with the cutoff circuit [i.e. "press button" AND (Uin = OK)] I don't see any way to make a supervision circuit that doesn''t draw power.Best,//C

author: vortexnl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2013, 03:36:52 pm
content: I made up a little circuit that seems to work, it's kinda like a set/reset latch using one PNP and one NPN transistor. I think I can get it to work using these parts.

author: Things
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2013, 11:38:26 am
content: You could use a comparator and a latching soft switch circuit, use the comparator to switch off the softswitch. Means you'll need to re-enable it manually, but not really any other options while having no current draw on the battery.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2013, 05:33:23 am
content: Have a voltage reference from whatever on hand, compared to a voltage divider, so that the voltage divider is just a tad lower than the reference at the cut off voltage, then, using the comparator, drive a FET to switch everything off/on have all the circuitry on the switched side of the FET, then use a momentary tact switch to manually drive the gate of the FET to turn it back on, also have a resistor to stop the gate from floating.When the battery goes flat, the comparator will turn the FET off, and the circuit will stay off because the comparator isn't getting any power, nor is the voltage divider, it won't oscillate, then once you recharge the battery, you press the tact switch to turn the FET on, it should power the detection circuitry and keep the FET on until it goes flat again.
Creating a Linear Model of a BJT (2N3906) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 09:51:00 pm
content: Hi all,I'm working on a lab report that asks us to characterize a 2N3906. So far, I've gotten the collector current/collector-emitter voltage relationship and calculated the gain at Vce= 1V. The lab then asks to create a piece-wise linear model of the BJT (using gain ??). It asks to separate the data into a few segments.What relationship should I use to characterize the 2N3906? Gain vs Ic? Am I off the mark here?Thanks a lot. Really appreciate any help,TimThe part of the lab I'm having trouble with is attached.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 11:28:06 pm
content: beta(Ic), so it would seem.I'd have to see your data series to suggest some likely segments, but I'd just as well make it a constant 200 or so, for reasons that are well and truly beyond the scope of this early and overly simplified lab.Tim

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 11:58:53 pm
content: Thanks Tim. I did all the work for gain vs. Ic, and I think that's what the lab was looking for. Had to dig back into my algebra toolbox for linearization, but not too bad. Thanks for your input.
[.asc file attached] Problem creating a new component in Multisim - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Michelemmike
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 27, 2022, 10:19:12 am
content: Hi,I'm trying to create an SCR in Multisim using the manufacturer's Spice model. The problem is that the newly created SCR works like a diode, no matter what the gate signal is.Here's the datasheet:https://www.vishay.com/docs/94391/vs-70tpspbf.pdfHere's the Spice model:https://www.vishay.com/docs/96761/vs-70tps16.pdfHere's a video about me creating the new device:.For a comparison, I designed the same circuit using a Multisim-included SCR, which works fine. At 5:31 you can see the voltage across the resistor in both cases.So I really don't know why it doesn't work. Any thoughts?Thank youMichele--------------------------EDIT: the LTspice .asc file of the circuit is attached

author: tepalia02
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2022, 10:51:05 am
content: Hi, did you follow all the steps shown here?

author: Michelemmike
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 27, 2022, 12:16:44 pm
content: I used the component wizard with the manufacturer's spice model. The video you sent is about creating a new component from scratch.

author: Michelemmike
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 27, 2022, 02:19:04 pm
content: I replicated the same circuit in LTspice. What I get is a bunch of random spikes.The .asc file is attached.
Creating a spice model - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: nihial
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2025, 05:28:12 pm
content: Hi,I would like to simulate some inductors from coilcraft. I found on the manufacturer website not the spice models but values to create that model.https://www.coilcraft.com/getmedia/aac0dc81-8a22-4f95-b4a8-34e919874451/spice_lps4018.pdfHowever I don't know in practice how to include the frequency dependency.I have multiple inductors that I should model with similar rules and I'm looking for a small bootstrapping help with a small example.Best regards

author: firewalker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2025, 08:39:28 pm
content: There are models for those inductors. For Pspice and Ltspice. Can the simulator you use accept those models?https://www.coilcraft.com/en-us/models/howto/model-library-for-ltspice/https://www.coilcraft.com/en-us/models/howto/model-library-for-pspice/Alexander.

author: nihial
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2025, 12:37:56 pm
content: Hi,Silly I didn't see them but at some point I'd like to make a tolerance analysis and as far as I know I can't do that with these kind of models right ?Hence I would have like to remodel them and add some gaussian variability inside the model
Creating a sprocket from PCB with encoder? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: shai
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 12:45:59 am
content: I am building a PnP Machine and would like to create the sprocket for my feeder out of PCB. See attached.I know that PCB is not the best material for a sprocket, etc, etc. I would like to focus on one thing only - how to create an encoder for this sprocket. I have a few ideas but perhaps someone with more experience can tell me what would work best and if you have better idea to share?Ideas:1. Drill holes in sprocket and use optical sensor (self explanatory, but I'm afraid this is not very super accurate for PCB material)2. Use two springs that will contact with each pad. Simplest way to do it, just the cycle count might not be high as the sprocket/spring could wear out from physical contact/rotation.3. Use optical encoder that reflects off the pads and make sure the PCB is matte black. (will this work? or will it still reflect off a matte black pcb?)4. Use a Hall effect or similar sensor and detect the pads. (This one I'm not sure, non-lead-free pads? is that a possibility? Can any sort of SMT pad coating type be detectable with a Hall effect sensor? I think they are cheaper than optical encoders? Suggestions here?5. Any other ideas on how to get creative with a PCB sprocket to be used as encoder?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 07:29:16 am
content: Please do not double post. It is very annoying to all as it causes confusion.
Creating a toothbrush electric. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Liam
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2019, 05:52:24 am
content: I’m warning you a beginner in electronics, so if you think my idea is bad, recommend another one.And so, in order to expand his experience and skills, he decided to assemble a toothbrush for my little brother. Ordered the base brushes herehttps://wisepick.org/best-electric-toothbrush-for-kids/, they have to be disassembled, this is not a problem. I tried to find reviews or technical schemes, but the Internet stubbornly walked me to the manufacturer’s website or went to such reviews. I have a 3D printer so I can print some parts of a toothbrush, body, and other trifles on my own.I have a lot of questions, where can I find the right schemes for my project? What power is needed current?I will be glad to any help, my brother is 5 years old.
Creating components in altium and associating nets in sch/pcb editor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Steven Waring
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 17, 2020, 07:27:10 pm
content: Hello everyone,I'm trying to get my head around the workflow for creating new components in altium and I have hit a bit of a block that I can't figure out how to search for the answer.I am trying to create a custom led schematic symbol and pcb footprint. I have made the drawing of the led with the pins in the schematic editor. I have also created pcb footprint with through holes that shows up nicely in the pcb editor. They are associated together and seem to work fine in most regards.The problem I am having is that when I connect wires from the anode and cathode of the led to my vcc and gnd nets in the schematic the pcb editor does not seem to understand the connection. I noticed this when trying to do a copper pour for the ground plane. The gnd pin gets the connection to the plane but the led pins do not. I am able to go into the netlist editor and manually assign the pins to net but it seems like there should be an easier way to do this. Am I missing a step somewhere or overlooking something obvious?Any more specific details that could be needed just let me know.

author: Steven Waring
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 18, 2020, 02:08:48 am
content: Well, I think I figured out my mistake. It should have been obvious. I was looking for a way to map the pads to pins but it turns out they just need the same designators as the pins and everything works as expected

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2020, 10:46:22 am
content: Yeah, pins are matched by designator. You can write in custom designators in the Map Pins... dialog, when selecting a footprint.Tim
Creation of a wireless alarm for camping cars :) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jeanne
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 19, 2022, 06:45:08 pm
content: Hello,I live a good part of the year in my camper.I would like to install an alarm that I would have created.I want to put a magnetic sensor (battery operated but without integrated siren) on the 4 doors of my vehicle + install a flashing light on the roof + a siren under the hood of the vehicle.I want to activate/deactivate the alarm with a single remote control and press a single button on the remote control to activate everything (like locking or unlocking a car that has central locking).I have a 280Ah lithium battery in the camper. It will supply 12V to the siren, the flashing light and the "central unit" which will communicate with the magnetic sensors.Here is what I would need (I think) :115db outdoor siren 9€:https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32843318861.htmlflashing light 14€:https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32830436090.html4 magnetic sensors 433Mhz 32€:https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/33049171059.html1 remote control to activate the 4 sensors at the same time 7€ (one click on the remote control to activate everything)https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000168798137.htmlthe box that communicates with the 4 sensors 20€:This is not what I want, but apparently there is this:https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000090294371.htmlI have two questions:- Is it possible to use a single remote control to activate all 4 sensors with a single press? Like a car lock key, you lock the whole car at once, from one remote. We don't have 5 different remotes for the 5 doors.- What product should we get to be able to communicate with the 4 sensors AND be able to connect it to the siren and flashing light?Thanks a lot for your help

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2022, 07:16:02 pm
content: Since both your sensors and siren are made by the same manufacturer PGST, contacting them is your best bet. PGST should know for sure. Whereas, unless someone here happened to have tried the exact same combination, we can only guess.I do want to point out that the PGST web page for your siren, I saw only mentions ofPIRdetectors instead of themagneticdetectors you want, checking with PGST is a good thing to do.

author: bidrohini
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2022, 03:14:44 am
content: It is possible to use a single remote control to activate all 4 sensors with a single press. You have to use an Arduino for that.

author: Jeanne
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 20, 2022, 06:55:17 pm
content: Hello,I try to ask question to the sellor but... it's not a super seller talker ^^:Me:QuoteSeller:QuoteMe:QuoteTo be continue
Creepages/Clearancs in offline SMPS to EN 60669 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Faringdon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2023, 09:35:57 am
content: Hi,I need to check some creepages/clearances in an offline SMPSconform to BS EN IEC 60669-2-1 + A11 _2022.I have the PDF of this standard, but when i try and open it,it says "The encoding (Cmap) specified by a font is missing".Do you know what the creepages and clearances are in this standard?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2023, 09:51:54 am
content: Buy a legitimate copy, you are using a far eastern knock-off.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2023, 09:59:39 am
content: Quote from: Faringdon on November 13, 2023, 09:35:57 amGyro's statement is accurate and to the point. No reputable company would be without up to date versions of the relevant standards.Alternatively, why do you care?According to you (and your alter-ego treez) Chinese stuff ignores safety, and they are undercutting your ability to have a job here.Ifthat's the case, surely your best course of action is to ignore the standards.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2023, 08:53:22 pm
content: I think you will find the answer herehttps://www.edaboard.com/threads/bs60669-creepages-clearances.409012/They are a friendly bunch, and it is probably beneficial if you post there in future.
Crimp connector ratings - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2019, 08:52:15 am
content: I have a set of low cost (red, yellow, blue) crimp connectors and I was hoping to put some of the fork ones onto the 240 VAC mains cable supplying a 5 volt 10 amp modular SMPS. However, they look pretty thin and I’m not sure that I would trust them with AC mains.I had a look at RS (who didn’t supply these particular ones) but didn’t find electrical ratings as such. Wire sizes seemed to be the thing there.Any advice please ?Thanks

author: Kirkhaan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2019, 10:47:54 am
content: You could cover them with some heat shrink tube.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2019, 10:56:52 am
content: They are good for as many amps as the wire that crimps into them.Tim

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2019, 11:11:53 am
content: Its not the voltage that matters, its the current. If they can carry 5A at 12V, they are OK for 5A at any other voltage. As you are suspicious about their thickness, test them at 10A and low voltage on a similar terminal strip, and if they don't run hot, they'll be fine at 5A.

author: Twoflower
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2019, 11:14:23 am
content: Make sure that you use the right tool to crimp them. Wrong or cheap crimp tools too often fail to do the job reliable. Do a pull test to see if the connection is done acceptable.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2019, 12:24:22 pm
content: The pressed steel crimp 'tools' that also strip wire and allegedly cut bolts are generally worthless. Any tool for diameter colour coded wire terminals must have properly shaped dies that are wide enough to make the crimp in one shot, and enough leverage to fully close the dies on a top quality max wall thickness welded barrel seam terminal, with maximum CSA wire in it. Most hardware store ratchet crimpers are usable. Some are better than others.

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2019, 06:59:14 pm
content: Thanks for all the replies.The terminals are all insulated and I have a new ratchet type tool so I'll give it a go.I've also got a new crimp tool for ferrules as well. I gave that a go and got a really solid connection.Did I also say that I've bought a load of those (non-genuine) Wago sprung connectors ?I've done some tests with those and they hold the cable very tightly.
Crimp connectors on single core wire? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fubar.gr
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 12:07:21 pm
content: I want to put a crimp type ring terminal on a solid core 1.5mm2 electrical copper wire. Will this result in a reliable connection?

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 12:15:13 pm
content: I've seen it done a bit, but I'm not a fan of the idea unless the terminal is soldered too.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 12:26:09 pm
content: As long as the crimp is suitably sized for the wire, either stranded or solid, it will work fine,Soldering a crimp connector makes it far more brittle, which is even worse when your already dealing with single core wire,

author: GNU_Ninja
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 12:26:52 pm
content: There's a thread relevant to that question:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/crimp-*and*-solder-a-crimp-connector-good-bad/msg761394/#msg761394

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 12:31:17 pm
content: Quote from: Rerouter on September 23, 2015, 12:26:09 pmNo way. Crimping solid wire is a big no. Extremely unreliable connection. Seen a them failing, caused me a big pain in the ass when I needed to go abroad and try to find such intermittent connections in the equipment made by idiots. If you extremely need to use crimp connector, then solder it afterwards.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 12:33:05 pm
content: Quote from: Rerouter on September 23, 2015, 12:26:09 pmI don't see how soldering will make it more brittle on a solid core wire. Stranded is another story of course, because you are turning part of the wire into solid core.

author: mzzj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 12:33:34 pm
content: I'd say don't do it unless you have parts and tools exactly specified for this application. Or at least test your crimps yourself, if the crimp holds more than 50% of the wire breaking strength its pretty good.I have seen it only used on BIG cables and the crimping tools are not a joke.According to undefined sources most? military standards also forbid crimped joints on single core.

author: krivx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 12:47:47 pm
content: Quote from: PA0PBZ on September 23, 2015, 12:33:05 pmYou should also have much less capillary action so the solder should not run up the wire as much. This seems to agree with experience in tinning solid wire.
Crimping 7/0.2mm wire?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: peps1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2015, 04:02:53 pm
content: Hello guys,I know very little about crimping, limited to using Red, Blue & Yellow crimps.I have some 3D printer projects coming up where I would like to connect some butt, fork and ring crimps to 7/0.2mm wire, and was wondering if there is a colour code, or optimal size I should be looking for?Thank you!

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2015, 03:33:10 am
content: To get a reliable connection with small wire I'll often strip extra wire and double or triple it up to give the terminal something to 'bite'into. Sometimes a bit of solder is needed too.

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2015, 06:32:08 am
content: On top of wagon's suggestion - applying heatshrink to the wire insulation to make it larger diameter can help depending on the style of connector

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2015, 08:48:46 am
content: QuoteI'd agree with the doubling up, but avoid the solder. Solder will cold flow and release the crimp pressure over time - same problem as tinning wire ends before inserting them into screw terminals, they will loosen with time. You should either solder or crimp, not both.Solder tags might actually be a better (if slower) option. Heatshrink for strain relief.

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2015, 09:04:26 am
content: Quote from: Gyro on September 06, 2015, 08:48:46 amI should have said 'solder after crimping'....
Crimping tool - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Ctn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 06:41:57 am
content: I'm looking for a crimping tool that can crimp a plug like this:http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTYwWDEyODA=/$T2eC16dHJHoE9n3KgItnBQ%29HzISDIw~~60_57.JPGFrom what I read, I *think* I need a non-insulated open barrel crimping tool.I've looked at so many and I can't seem to find one that handles a 7mm wide open barrel.Most are F type and they are no good as they have a staggered crimp.Any suggestions which crimping tool is required?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 08:03:49 am
content: Your link is brocken

author: Ctn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 08:21:16 am
content: Should be fixed now.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 08:23:55 am
content: yea works, ouch, tough stuff, how many you doing ? might be worth soldering

author: Ctn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 08:39:46 am
content: 36 connections.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 08:55:35 am
content: Well for a one off just solder them ?

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 09:11:54 am
content: One of these.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-70mm-COPPER-TUBE-TERMINALS-CRIMPER-CRIMPING-CABLE-LUGS-BATTERY-WIRE-TOOL-/290747223199?pt=UK_BOI_Materials_Supplies_Electrical_ET&hash=item43b1e28c9f

author: Ctn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 26, 2014, 09:57:13 am
content: Awesome so hex/round crimping tools are the go.Will look into these. Thanks guys.

author: Ctn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 27, 2014, 05:56:37 am
content: It's going to be use to terminate 10 awg stranded speaker cable.It will be pretty much static with no vibration.Not too sure about current flow. Specs say "40 Amps peak" for the amplifier.I'm located in Sydney.I'm not after something very fancy, a cheap crimping tool (not soldering) that will do the job will be fine.
criticize/debug my PWM to 0-5V analog converter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: bschwand
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2025, 12:40:12 pm
content: Hi all,I am looking for feedback on a circuit I made, which works, but doesn't :-)Background: I have some small BLDC motor with integrated driver that has a potentiometer to adjust speed from 0 to 100k rpm.The BLDC driver is supplied 12VDC. The potentiometer has outside legs connected to the driver, those connections I have measured provide 0 and 5V. The wiper leg is a 3rd connection.I want to control the BLDC motor with a PWM signal, about 1kHz and duty cycle varying between 0 and 100%, at 12VDC. (that is just what the other circuitry I want to interface with provides)Here is the circuit I designed, I simulated in LTspice and worked well enough.The actual circuit, when not hooked to the BLDC driver, outputs effectively from about 0.2-4.8V when fed a PWM signal with varying duty cycle.When I connected my circuit to the BLDC driver, I noticed the 0 and 5V pins should have a resistor across (like the original potentiometer) otherwise the motor will not spin at all.The 0-5V output however does not reach the full range. Given a duty cycle of 0%, motor is off, and speeds up as duty cycle is increased until about 40%.At that point, any increase does not increase the voltage output and the motor speed does not increase. I noticed when I change the duty cycle, the motor briefly (sub second) speeds up a bit, then settles back to the same speed as with 40% duty cycle.I unfortunately have no doc or schematic of the BLDC controller, and the IC on it has no markings.Any ideas what is going on, why this is not working as expected ?

author: bschwand
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2025, 01:08:13 pm
content: replying to my own questionsomehow, everytime I try everything I can think of, finally give up and turn to the forums for help...right after I click send I have another idea... which solves the problem.The issue was that cables from the circuit to the motor driver were very long, and my power supply was limiting current to the motor at a max of 350mA. When hitting the higher speeds, this motor takes up to 1.5A.So the circuit works, pretty happy about that. Also happy that the LTspice sim results and real-life circuit are very close.
Critique my capacitive touch PCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: redgear
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 07:07:43 am
content: My first attempt at making a capacitive touch PCB. I followed the guidelines fromMicrochip's Application Note.The PCB will be overlayed with 2mm thick glass.My questions:1) The LEDs are reverse mounted, but in the 3D model there is no hole on the touch pads. Do I have to manually drill holes?2) Can I place the connection header in the space between two touch pads(back layer )? Since it is a through hole component I am afraid it will cause issues with touch detection.Thanks.

author: Ario
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 10:02:44 am
content: Drilling Holes?It depends, how are you going to manufacture it.I suggest sending in a gerberfile to JLCPCB. They can inspect it for free, and will indicate if they can manufacture it. If footprints are correct, the manuafacture will drill the needed holes.Do you have a schematic?

author: redgear
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 10:31:12 am
content: Quote from: Ario on September 12, 2020, 10:02:44 amYeah, for the light from LEDs to be visible. Yes, the footprints for the LEDs are default ones. I created a custom footprint for PCB pad.Attached the schematic.

author: Ario
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 12:18:39 am
content: Okay, doesn't look to bad according to my knowledge. Still not sure what you mean by the LEDS being visible? Do you need them to shine through the PCB itself? If I understand correctly you want one side smooth, so that you can attach a class plate over the touch pad. With LEDS shining through.What about ordering reverse mounted LEDS? I haven't done something like this before but is would be interesting too see. I assume if you use the correct footprint with proper reverse mounted leds, then yes the pcb manufacturer will know to drill holes for your LED's. Have a look at:https://www.kingbrightusa.com/category.asp?catalog_name=LED&category_name=KCReverse+Mount+SMD+LED&Page=1I have attached a picture of a footprint of a proper reverse mounted LED.Please keep me updated on this post, would like to see how it turns out.

author: redgear
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2020, 05:29:08 am
content: Quote from: Ario on September 13, 2020, 12:18:39 amThanks.YEs, i have reverse mouted LEDs already. My question was if I had to place holes manually on the PCB for them to be visible through the pad as the they directly underneath the pads.Sure, I will.

author: redgear
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2020, 11:12:37 am
content: Update:I have made some improvement(i guess) to the layout. Can anyone please review it?
Critique my DC-DC boost converter schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kendo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 05, 2021, 12:05:25 pm
content: Hi. I have been working on this boost converter for a while now and Im at a point where Im kind of happy with the simulations. So Im looking for some feedback just to see if I made some big mistakes or if this wont work in reality. This is also the first time Im building a DC-DC converter so treat me as a complete beginner.Im using this to power headphone amp/DAC so its fairly low power. I need about 150mA on positive rail and 20mA on negative rail. I designed it for +-7V which I will lower down to +-5V with a LDO.Anyway this is the schematic.For the most part I followed the datasheet and for the rest I played around with values in ltspice.This is the startup voltage at positive output.There are some oscillations there which I would like to get rid off. The inverting charge pump seems to cause them.This is the inductor current waveform at the startup.There is a big peak of 5.5A and more oscillations.At steady state all of the waveforms look fine.Im getting sub mV ripple which I was looking for. Ideally I would like to fix startup oscillations and lower down the peak current through the inductor.What do you think?EDIT:How do you put images inline?Figured it out.
Critique: Stepper Driver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Zillolo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 05:38:40 pm
content: Hello friends,I just had a go at making a stepper motor driver using a combination of ST's L297 and L298,but since I'm not very good at this stuff yet I'd appreciate if anybody could have a look at my circuit/pcb and tell me what they think about it.Thanks in advancePs: Is it critique or criticize if used as a verb?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 05:40:38 pm
content: to criticize is to complain about, to offer critique is to offer constructive criticism

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 09:58:07 pm
content: The driver can switch 3 amps. That is something, you should properly bypass, with a bigger capacitor. I've read the datasheet, and I've seen the typical application there. Still, if you look at the example, they have a 470uF capacitor there, I suggest you do the same.