hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Service manual / schematics for Solartron 7060G multimeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2015, 09:33:02 am
content: Hi,Is there anyone that happens to have the service manual or, at least, the schematics for the Solartron 7060G multimeter that they might be willing to share?I'm trying to bring one such multimeter back to life and this info would be most useful.Thank you!

author: felixd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2020, 07:15:55 am
content: Hey @giosif any luck with finding any documentation for this DMM?

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2020, 10:39:25 am
content: No, I'm afraid, but I stopped looking for one after some time of searching.Please let me/us here know if you do manage to source it.

author: felixd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2020, 03:33:54 pm
content: Got one!https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/solartron-7060-service-manual/msg3194318/#msg3194318

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2020, 06:02:32 pm
content: Yes, I saw that, but many thanks for taking the time to update this thread as well!I would be interested in the scan, of course, but I think it would only be fair for you get some compensation for the money and effort you put into this thus far.Let's talk more once you have the scan done.
service manual USA for HP 8012B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: hnjmkl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2023, 07:12:27 pm
content: Hi, I'm looking for the HP 8012B US version service manual, I have P/N 08012-90005 Germany with the schematic that doesn't match the circuit I'm trying to repair, in fact it refers to S/N 1633G00491 and above. The S/N of the 8012B is 2325A17931 made in the USA, thank you for any suggestions.

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2023, 07:06:49 am
content: Hello,At the end of that manual (pages 113 and beyond) there are changes documented 12 February 1981 for serial numbers 2110Axxxxx on. That might explain the differences you find in the schematic.Link to the xdevs site with that version of the manual:https://xdevs.com/doc/HP/8012B.pdf

author: hnjmkl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2023, 03:02:39 pm
content: the recommended manual from 1980, unlike the one I downloaded previously, largely corresponds to my circuit being repaired, it certainly helps me, pity about the low quality of the scan, probably the original was already dirty.

author: Wallace Gasiewicz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2023, 05:35:37 pm
content: Artek has much better scanshttp://artekmanuals.com/manuals/hp-manuals/You can e mail and ask them if your version is in their scan.

author: hnjmkl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2023, 05:46:26 pm
content: unfortunately it is not what I need, however I am not the only one to complain about lack of documentation for the 8012B, in particular the coverage for S/N 2325A XXXX

author: hnjmkl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2023, 06:00:23 am
content: The non-correspondence of the 1980 manual compared to the 2325A series is evidenced by the poorly made puzzle using different manuals, one with a metal spiral and the other with a plastic spiral, congratulations HP!
Service Manual Wanted  YOKOGAWA DL 1200A 4 CHANNEL - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: JoeyG
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 02:55:21 pm
content: YOKOGAWA DL 1200A 4 CHANNELWhere to start looking?

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2020, 04:19:44 pm
content: I'm aware they're not the right model and no schematics... if any help:https://doc.xdevs.com/docs/Yokogawa/dl1700/dl1740_dl1720_service_manual.pdfhttps://doc.xdevs.com/docs/Yokogawa/dl1700/dl1720e_dl1740e_dl1740el_service_manual.pdfhttps://doc.xdevs.com/docs/Yokogawa/Yokogawa%20DL7100_7200%20Service%20Manual.pdfTry asking the manufacturer, or if for a repair, get people interested in your case here.
service manuals - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 11:14:54 pm
content: http://www.schematicsunlimited.com/aR_G_B_

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2015, 05:08:58 am
content: Quote from: R_G_B_ on June 11, 2015, 11:14:54 pmAt the request ofmiguelvp, I've added this to Repair Documents and Links.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/repair-documents-and-links-sticky-me-please-mods/msg691945/#msg691945Very good find, thanks.

author: meeder
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2015, 10:34:24 am
content: Great link!Sadly still nog service manual for my NAD 118 Digital Pre-amplifier

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2015, 12:19:09 pm
content: excellent, at last a service manual for my pile of HP8657B

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2015, 06:25:15 pm
content: Quote from: KJDS on June 12, 2015, 12:19:09 pmDon't forget about the eevblog Wiki.http://www.eevblog.com/wiki/Scroll down toService Manuals and Repair InformationSchematics Unlimited is a decent site and has been on the wiki for over 3 years, they have plenty of manuals there. My go-to site is usually KO4BB.com, and I see they also have service manuals for the HP8657B.There is alsohttp://www.manualslib.com/(which is NOT in the wiki, I'll put it there).

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2015, 06:54:45 pm
content: Quote from: codeboy2k on June 12, 2015, 06:25:15 pmThat's odd, it wasn't there two weeks ago when I looked last. It's also my go-to site.

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2015, 07:13:25 pm
content: Probably someone put them up recently.I have a list of manuals that I want to find, and occasionally I go back to all the sites in the wiki to check, and I will sometimes find one when I could not before.

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 06:53:06 pm
content: ftp://ftp.agilent.com/pub/manuals/R_G_B

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2015, 02:36:26 am
content: Quote from: meeder on June 12, 2015, 10:34:24 amI asked my local NAD distributor on your behalf, and they kindly sent me the schematics.It's too large to upload here, so I put it on my Google drive:https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5_SipSfvm8RVmVHb1kyZ3R5SEE/view?usp=sharing

author: meeder
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2015, 03:45:24 am
content: Quote from: codeboy2k on June 19, 2015, 02:36:26 amThanks codeboy2k!

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2015, 04:12:22 am
content: I have an old NAD 7100 stereo receiver. It wasn't the most expensive gear at the time but it wasn't cheap. With good speakers, it still sounds amazing.

author: transistor12
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2020, 05:03:24 pm
content: Hi there,Where do i find Corsair VS450 PSU service manual , schematics.OR Other ATX PSU Service manuals.Thanks.
service password in rohde & Schwarz FSEA FSEB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: analogRF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2019, 07:06:19 pm
content: Does anybody know what the service password is in FSEA FSEB spectrum analyzers? It is needed to enable service functions that are very useful in troubleshooting

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2019, 11:10:46 pm
content: Doesn't list it here, but I's start with "123456", that's what it is on an SMIQ and it seems common on a lot of theirshttps://www.rohde-schwarz.com/us/faq/what-is-the-standard-password-faq_78704-29379.html

author: analogRF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2019, 12:20:37 am
content: I found these numbers for enabling various sets of service functions from FSW and FSP service manuals:8941292012200430473035the first number is actually mentioned somewhere in the FSEA operating manualas the administrative password for winnt. I am gonna try these but for now I am away and dont have access to the SA
Sevcon GEN 4 motor controller repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Drirr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2020, 01:29:17 pm
content: Hi guys, is there anybody experienced with sevcon GEN 4 motor controllers?I am trying to fix two of them, both were used in electric scooters. One was fully functional and then died while not used long time, second was not funtional from beggining.Symptoms - first one, LED blinking 10 times, after diassembly without cables, blinking 6 times.Second one, trurns on, when I try to run motor it turns a little bit and then switches off and start blinking.What I checked on first one:1) voltages are okay, DSP 3,3V, 1,8V, voltages for opamps OK, all three contactor MOSFETs OK, input protection diodes are all open - TVS? All TO220 MOSFETs ok.Any ideas what to do next?

author: Slh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2020, 02:13:46 pm
content: I've used some Sevcon controllers in the past. First and foremost - do you have the manual for that controller? The 10 blinks is trying to tell you something (that's the most basic way of communicating errors) but I don't know what error it is. There's a good chance that 6 blinks is just "error: no battery or no motor connected".The second one could be an issue with the position sensor. I assume that it uses hall effect sensors for the position sensing so it might start running as it assumes that both of the hall channels are high. When it hasn't received any updates from position feedback it would stop working. Again, count the blinks and compare with the errors in the manual.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2020, 09:31:47 pm
content: Assuming N blinks means that test N failed, I would take the second unit and non-destructively create faults on it. By observing the resulting error code, you may be able to determine what each test is doing.
sewing machine pedal repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2021, 02:44:06 pm
content: Hi all,i have a singer 2502c sewing machine,the issue is with the foot switch,it is either on or off,there is no ramp up of the power,its like flatout or nothing,so far i have tested the bt134 triac with a dmm,it seems fine,any ideas what the issue could be,would a duff cap or diac cause this?,i have measured the caps for s/c they are not shorted,not cheched capacitance yet or esr.attached is a pic of the pcb,have no idea of the history as just brought it for spares or repair. tia

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2021, 02:47:12 pm
content: would i be right in thinking the caps gowing low in capacitance ,ie the one that feeds the diac would cause the non ramp up of motor speed?,tia .

author: dark_hawk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2021, 02:54:55 pm
content: Have you checked the switch/potentiometer?

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2021, 03:11:42 pm
content: the switch is fine as are is potentiometer/trimmer.i imagine the cap that feeds the diac has gone low in capacitance so it fires the triac fully on strait away without any delay as to my mind i can see that being the issue that could cause this??.

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2021, 03:45:39 pm
content: would i be right in thinking the caps gowing low in capacitance ,ie the one that feeds the diac would cause the non ramp up of motor speed?,tia .

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2021, 04:44:29 pm
content: The orange capacitors are film units, so they are unlikely to change capacitance but they could fail. I would guess that if it be a component value change problem (as opposed to open/short failure), the resistors are more likely culprits.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2021, 05:06:08 pm
content: Holes in the PWB are extremely large. All mechanical support for the passive components is solder. How do those joints look on the other side of the board? Any fractures?

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2021, 06:00:05 pm
content: I wouldn't expect the potentiometer in the foot control to be a "trimmer."At the input to the board what does it read? My Pfaff reads from about 20K to 1K, depending on how much I push the pedal down. Between those values, it is either OFF or fully on, which reads a bit less than 1k.Instead of "OK," what resistances did you read?
Sewing machine Pfaff 332 motor capacitor replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sailor83
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2019, 03:18:40 pm
content: Hello everyone!I have this old Pfaff 332 sewing machine with a blown capacitor, it takes out the mainfuse. Have removed it and everything works as it should. But I think i need to put in a new one, but can't really understand the schematics of the old one. (the capacitor is supposed to reduce radio noise as well as sparking on the carbon brushes, from what I've read)The old one: TYPE 1210BD/1 (0.1µF + 2x2500pF)The main supply comes into the screw socket and passes through the capacitor into the magnet coil around the rotor in the motor.Tried drawing the circuit printed on the capacitor.My guess it that the 0.1µF is connected over the main supply, and one 2500pF from each lead to ground, hard to tell by the picture, and circuit drawing.Ordered a new one from Kemet: PZB300MC11R30 it has X2 and Y2 rating, 100nF between end pins and one 2.2nF between end pin and center pin.One leg on each of the supply and the center pin to ground is my plan. The supply here is 230Vac, the capacitor says 275vac, is that sufficient?Am I correct or way out?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2019, 04:37:01 pm
content: Correct, the original was made by winding the wires with the foil, so that the ESR of the device contributed to the noise reduction, and then the whole assembly was put into the aluminium body. The new one is done as you described, it does the same function, you just need to extend the wires to it, or mount it near the screw block.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2019, 04:45:35 pm
content: I only see 4 wires in total go into the old capacitor (two at each end) - is the aluminum case itself connected to Ground through its mounting?

author: sailor83
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2019, 08:37:19 pm
content: Yes, on the rear of the image there is a screw connected to ground.Thanks SeanB, I'll extend the wires a bit and put some heatshrink over the metal pins to avoid it coming in contact with something it shouldn't touch.

author: Vorrin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 23, 2024, 02:55:25 pm
content: Hi folks! I see it's been a while, but in case somebody is still around, I'm trying to fix a very similar issue, and... I'm too dumb and un-electricity savvy to understand how we replace a cap with 4 wires with one with 3 legsWould anyone mind explaining it to me?
SG3524 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Marco_Mar
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2022, 07:43:37 am
content: Hi All!Just for fun and education about DC/DC converters, I made up this circuit where IC1 is SG3524 (REGULATING PULSE WIDTH MODULATOR).Well, it does not work because R10 can't set Vout but I got a hint I'd like to share.Troubleshooting tests:- VREF at PIN 16 (5V) -> OK- Pulses on PIN3 -> OK-between PIN 1 and PIN2 (IN- and IN+ inputs of internal error amplifier) there is a voltage drop of about 1 V.. Do you think is ok? I expected to read 0V.Thank you for your help

author: strawberry
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2022, 10:58:34 am
content: IC hit duty cycle limit or feedback oscillation

author: Marco_Mar
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2022, 12:54:26 pm
content: Thank you.Pulses on PIN3 are very narrow (Duty Cycle around 0,4%) whilst outputs (PIN11 and PIN14) are always at 50% DC.Can't detect any oscillation on the feedback path.Do you suspect a bad IC1?Bye

author: eblc1388
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2022, 01:48:31 pm
content: SG3524 is perfectly fine and working correctly.Is the wanted output voltage too low? If yes, then the pri/sec turn ratio of the transformer is incorrect. Where did you get the transformer or have you DIY it yourself?If the output voltage is too high, then the value of resistors in the feedback path is wrong.

author: Marco_Mar
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2022, 06:52:48 am
content: Thank you.Your hints make me suspect about transformer (got from surplus).As soon as I can, I'll check it out.Bye
SG3525A power suplly - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: maher471
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2022, 09:39:59 am
content: Hi, Today I have an old switching power supply to be repaired based on the circuit SG3525A, which the bridge rectifier and all the transistors are exploded (2 MOSFET IRF740 and 2 BJT BD135). The problem is that is repaired by another repairer and following that I'm not sure of this repair, I ask you if you can confirm the type of the 2 command transistors: Q6 and Q7 if they are NPNs like schema or PNPs, and thank you for 'advance. in the same case, and basing with the value of the mosfet IRF740 and the output diode BYV72, what is the best value for the bridge rectifier BR.The schematic was traced by me, so I suppose I have traced it correctly.and what is the exact role of Q6 and Q7 in this configuration

author: xavier60
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2022, 10:18:41 am
content: I have never seen transistors used in the Gate circuit as Q6 and Q7 are shown.If they are supposed to be PNP, then the presence of C8 and C9 makes no sense.If it really is meant to be as shown, the only reason that I can think of is to reduce the On drive current which is commonly done by other means.Also from my experience, the SG3525A suffers a lot of stress trying to supply drive current directly.

author: xavier60
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2022, 10:38:35 am
content: Actually I was misinterpreting the Gate drive circuitry. Now I think its purpose is to prevent small voltage fluctuations during the dead time from being applied to the Gates. The SG3525A will be doing a poor job of clamping the dead time drive at near to zero volts.

author: maher471
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2022, 09:08:35 pm
content: hi, thanks for the answer, but can you be more detailed on how it works I can't understand you.

author: xavier60
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2022, 09:33:35 pm
content: When the driver transformer outputs a small positive voltage, little of it gets applied to the Gate because Q7 is off. When the drive voltage gets high enough, Q7 turns on and all of the drive voltage gets applied to the Gate.Because this seems to happen at about 0.6V, it doesn't seem to be worth while. It would make more sense if there was another resistor between Base and Emitter of Q7 to raise the drive voltage at which it's turned on.The whole control circuit can be powered from just a bench supply so that the drive waveform to Q2 can be safely observed.
Shaded Pole Induction Geared Motor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Jasonbit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2020, 09:24:04 pm
content: Hello Folks,I am searching to this motor (please see attached). I only found this website (http://motor-park.com/sub/sub02.php) where I can see the model. I already sent an email to this emails (http://motor-park.com/sub/sub11.php). One of them isn't works and another (hotmail) maybe I never receive an answer. Do you know where can I found this type motors?This set it is compost to two pieces (motor plus gear box). I need this two items (equal or similar).Thank you allI am a newbie on this jobsI am googling aboutShaded Pole Induction Motor,because this is the type of the motor with geared coupled. I think I can purchase the two separate items. For this I need understand what do these values mean:1:4704.08.19I am search to brands where I can find information about nameplate to learn about this parameters. If you can share with me manufactures for me to learn I will appreciate.Thanks

author: TheMG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2020, 10:37:17 pm
content: 1:47 would be the gear reduction ratio04. 08. 19 most likely the manufacturing datePart number although close, does not exactly match any of the examples on the website you found and the drawings look slightly different that the one in your photo, particularly the orientation of the gearbox.My guess, this is probably a custom part manufactured for a specific OEM. If this is for a repair, have you tried contacting the manufacturer of the equipment to get a replacement?What exactly is wrong with it? Most common failure of such motors is lack of lubrication, that can usually be easily fixed. If it's a stripped gear then that might be more problematic.

author: Jasonbit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2020, 10:39:51 pm
content: It means that the two pieces are sold together... thanks
Share your techniques for replacing a multi-gang rotary switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Bargainhunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2023, 04:45:48 pm
content: I have to replace a multi-gang rotary switch in a marantz receiver. I'd like to avoid any mistakes so the best option would be to move one wire at a time from the old switch to the replacement switch. I've attached a photo which shows the switch. As you can see there is no room to place the replacement switch along side the original so I can move one wire at a time. I have taken a lot of photos. There are many wires the same color.Would you share your past experiences and techniques on how you went about replacing such a switch.Thank you for your input.Chuck

author: Bargainhunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2023, 04:47:50 pm
content: Attached is the photo.

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2023, 07:10:09 pm
content: Applying some sort of code to ends of wire insulation + old and new switches with 2 or 3 different coloured markers / paints ?

author: Bargainhunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2023, 09:16:47 pm
content: Thanks for your suggestion.I ended up labeling the wires as you suggested.Chuck

author: Tomorokoshi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2023, 02:27:58 am
content: What is the problem with the switch?

author: eetechTom
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2023, 02:51:05 pm
content: Is that by any chance a Marantz receiver?

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2023, 02:20:24 pm
content: Quote from: eetechTom on February 03, 2023, 02:51:05 pmThat was also my first thought seeing the photo. Not that certain after all, I'd say definitely Japan-made.

author: Bargainhunter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2023, 04:30:38 pm
content: Yes. This is from a Marantz receiver.The bottom left section was completely broken off. See photo.I'm not sure how it happened as there is no damage to the case or face plate.I replaced the switch and the unit is working fine.
Sharp 65" Roku TV - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Jeff C
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 04, 2021, 02:57:08 am
content: Hello everyone,I recently got a Sharp 65" Roku TV from my dad and It stopped working the other day. The power light comes on, but there is no backlight or image (as far as I can tell). I am assuming its a power supply issue. I removed the power supply from the TV and measured the voltages on the output, and they were measuring 8V. I found a table that showed the pin out on the connector that went to the main processing board, and that stated that it should be at 12V.I guess my question is does anyone know where to find a schematic for this power supply? Or if you have experience with similar boards, some pointers in the right direction would be much appreciated. Its getting kind of late tonight, but I think I will give it another shot tomorrow after work.Thanks in advance for any help,JeffPS: If I am missing useful information, please let me know. This is my first post of this kind, and I am looking forward to the experience gained

author: samnmax
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2021, 07:17:41 am
content: I googled for "hisense rsag7 filetype:pdf" and found this one, the component references seem to match:https://adjuntos.yoreparo.com/default/0006/14/8d11c24ec7f5dd8d8ecda652347090ed255c2b42.pdfI've attached it here also. Good luck with the repair! well, not all references match. Hopefully it is similar enough..
Sharp Aquos 20B4M LCD - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: abhi1981
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2024, 10:07:05 am
content: HelloMy Sharp Aquos 20B4M LCD has got one dead CCFL. Because of this the TV is going into protection mode and not turning on.It turns on in adjustment mode (hold down the "TV/VIDEO" and "MENU" keys at once, and turn on the "POWER" switch) for about 5 sec then shuts down.Is there a way to bypass the protection mode, so that it can run even with one dead cfl.

author: FIXITNOW2003
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2024, 06:17:59 am
content: you will have to pull the inverter board and see which controller chip it has, then goggle that number to see if anyone has written up how to, it can be done on lots off controller so should be Posible

author: abhi1981
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2024, 07:22:50 pm
content: I googled a bit and found the solution.I used a 100k 2watt resistor in parallel with the dead ccfl and it worked.The TV still started in adjustment mode but didn't shut down. Then after pressing the "CH (Ù)" and "VOL (–)" keysat once, the adjustment process mode screen showed up and then after resetting the fault counter to 0, it started normally.There is a faint black line across the screen, but atleast its running now. The resistor does get hot, but has not burned out.I will try to get a replacement CCFL, if not then I will convert it to LED.
Sharp IQ-9000 Electronic Organizer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: blacksheeplogic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2022, 03:20:13 am
content: This works, is in lovely condition, and has several cards and a case. Unfortunately, the LCD has developed dark blotches. I've no experience in repairing a LCD, any suggestions? I don't really want to take it apart and make it worse if it's not repairable and I don't think getting a new display is an option for it (at least not that I have found)... This problem developed over a long period of time but in the last year became noticeably worse.

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2022, 06:29:55 am
content: Is it creeping in from the edges? or are the black areas in the central area as well? I don't know how to fix it but I can say the Minolta 9000 film SLR developed LCD delamination that appeared as dark areas creeping inwards from the edges. It was unrepairable but it did eventually stop in most cases as far as I ever heard and did so on mine as well. This happened over 20 years ago on a 1985 vintage product.These LCD's were very small being inside the viewfinder and on the shutter speed dial. Not like todays cameras.Maybe it only affects products with 9000 in the model number.

author: blacksheeplogic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2022, 02:56:52 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on March 22, 2022, 06:29:55 amI'm going though boxes I archived of 'stuff' that my family or I purchased over the years and for one reason or another put away. Most of it is from the 80's and 90's but a little is a bit older/newer. Most of the pre-90's have been fairly simple repairs but 90's onward I'm running into mostly unobtitanium parts. It's a shame to throw way a lot of this old stuff but it's just not repairable anymore.
Sharp LC-22CFF4011E - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Jane
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2022, 12:18:45 pm
content: During TV Sharp LC-22CFF4011E repair I found out several parts faulty.( including a capacitor and a resistor)Eventhough I have a service manual the values of parts are not given there.The parts were in HOT part of power supply.Can you please suggest values that could be OK ?Thank you.P.S.I enclosed a schematic part of power supply - faulty items marked in red -and also original parts - capacitor has marking like 72M but the leading number seems to be missing.

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2022, 02:45:39 pm
content: Is there no parts list in the service manual?I assume the cap is (4)72 4.7nF, but 2.7nF is also common.The resistor is 0.18Ohms

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2022, 05:51:01 pm
content: Probably not critical, other similar schematics lack that cap
Sharp LC32HQ3242E dim dispaly - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Szaman1701
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 10, 2025, 10:58:30 am
content: Hello, as in title, I got Sharp LCD TV, and few days ago its display became quite dim, other than that everything seems to work fine. I already disassembled TV and found 2 bad capacitors, but is there any other component that might be at fault here? I'm attaching a picture of the circuit board. Would you be so kind to help me identify other components that require replacement and what kind of parts I would need. Thank you in advance.

author: ercan4434
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2025, 05:49:03 pm
content: Hello, other "fine" looking caps can be faulty too. I recommend replacing them too.

author: Szaman1701
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 11, 2025, 02:56:37 am
content: Yes, I thought so too, but for starters I would like to diagnose the elements that's need replacing to just make it work properly again, and I was wondering if there are any other components than caps that are responsible for that dim display.

author: Szaman1701
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 20, 2025, 03:11:53 pm
content: Soldered new caps, and everything returned to normal. Thx.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2025, 06:42:35 pm
content: you where lucky they did not spill
Sharp LQ9D168 Display Connections - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: G0GCD
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 21, 2023, 11:24:39 am
content: Please anybody,I'm looking for the definition of what signals are on which pins of the DF9-31S connector for this display module.I've read datasheets for several similar modules but, from experimentation, they aren't right for the LQ9D168.A pointer to a datasheet would be perfect but failing that, what I'm actually looking for is the pin out.ThanksJohn G0GCD
SHARP S202T02 Replacement  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: zero0d
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2021, 08:43:41 pm
content: Hi all,i'm searching for the replacement part for SHARP S202T02 (SHARP S202T02F)https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/solid-state-relays/183?s=N4IgTCBcDaIMpgAxgCrJAXQDQgKxVAAcoBGHQ4yExRAX1qAi don't have experience with this kind of parts, is this a drop in replacement maybe:https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/ixys-integrated-circuits-division/CPC1976Y/1277138Br.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 01, 2021, 09:00:34 pm
content: QuoteIt will work fine as replacement unless it needs to be mounted on a heatsink. Just keep in mind their pinout is exactly the same but pin order is reversed, so will face the opposite side with it's marking.
Sharp tv shows no picture, but indicator light is lit. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: royzhero
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 10, 2020, 12:01:18 pm
content: I acquired a free 50” TV. IT is a Sharp LC50LE752E. It does not show a picture.When power is plugged in, the indicator light will turn on, the backlight stays off and nothing is visible, even with a flashlight. When pressing the touch buttons on the tv nothing happens. When pressing buttons on the remote control the indicator light will blink indicating the IRsignal was received, but nothing happens.Out of the 20 times that I have booted it, it did turn on 3 times and stayed on. It then showed a ‘No Input’ screen with a perfect screen without glitches. After powering it off and on again with the power button, then it would not show a picture anymore.Troubleshooting:All power supply connector voltages are normal, except there is no backlight_on voltage. Standby power is 5 vReturn power from the main board to trigger the power supply board is 3.5v.Manually shorting the Backlight on with the Power supply on lights the backlight normally and will stay on as long as I short it.I have reseated all connectors going between the boards.I have tried to find out why it did boot sometimes, but have not been able to. Have tried pressing on the main chip for example.The main board is DUNTKG135FM08. The power supply board is RDENCA459WJQZ.Board diagrams in PDF:https://1drv.ms/b/s!AkpE6xgs6VHNhGNwakvV...I am guessing there is a problem with the main chip or the standby chip IC3800. I’m not sure where to go from here. Any help is appreciated.

author: m3vuv
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2020, 01:17:17 pm
content: firs thing i would do is measure the esr of all the caps in the psu.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2020, 02:34:37 pm
content: First thing I would do is enter that model into YouTube. Touch nothing, listen, and learn first.

author: royzhero
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 14, 2020, 07:26:03 am
content: Thank you both for your replies.I have checked all diodes and capacitors on the PS board. All diodes are one-way and all capacitors show acceptable ESR.I have been able to turn it on yesterday. I plugged it in and the it started booting after 5 or 6 seconds. Then I was able to get into settings and into factory settings (by pressing MENU and slowly pressing 9 9 9 2 2 2) and was using and scrolling through the menu for about 15 minutes. I then left it on but discovered after 10 minutes that the screen had turned off again while the power led was still blue (it will turn red on standby), and I was not able to do anything but take the plug out again.
Shimano e-bike motor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lartsu
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2025, 03:06:15 pm
content: Do you have any idea what surface mount component might be that has burned out from the Shimano e7000 circuit board?All advices are welcome.When powering the bike - it givesW013 – Initialization of torque sensor not completed successfullyand then E010 error on an e-bike indicates a system erroraddition: based on measurement it might be 1206

author: ercan4434
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2025, 06:45:55 pm
content: Hi,Its probably ferrite bead used in PI filter referring to the placement with capacitors.
Shocks wanted stuff - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2020, 10:08:59 am
content: I'm looking for the following, please feel free to help out if you can.Fluke 51 or 52 Digital Thermometer Contactshttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/wtb-fluke-51-or-52-digital-thermometer-contacts/Systron Donner RS 160 3C Power Supply Manual or Service manualhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/wanted-systron-donner-rs-series-manualservice-manual/TENMA 72-465 Multifunction Counter Manual or Service Manualhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/wanted-tenma-72-465-multifunction-counter-manualservice-manual/Reply in the respective thread or drop me a PM if you can help out, thanks and much appreciated.
Shorted OUT+ with IN- of DPS5005 power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: IsaacE
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 01, 2022, 02:03:08 pm
content: Hello, as the title says, because of a poor structure I built and bad luck, the OUT+ of my DPS5005 PSU touched the IN- connector, big spark and yes, that was it, so I will try to repair it but I wanted to know if someone here would know where to start (i.e what component could be burnt from what I described), since I dont really have a schematic but it is kind of a common power supply, or at least it was.Before the dps5005 there is only a transformer (50V output) with the bridge rectifier and two big capacitors, thats why I dont think its necessary to attach a picture of that part. Thank you in advance and please tell me if I should provide any more information, its my first time posting here

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2022, 03:49:09 pm
content: check the 2 big transistors (or diode one of them?)
Should I match filter capacitors in an oscilloscope power supply? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ClifS
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 19, 2024, 12:16:07 am
content: I had a bridge rectifier go south in my oscilloscope power supply. I replaced that and also re-soldered the connector going from the transformer to the high side of the supply. A couple of the terminals were shaky. While I was at it, I thought it would be a worthwhile to change the filter capacitors as well. I original capacitors tested good for capacitance, but they do have some time on them (1985) I have no way to check ESR. There are 2 filter capacitors in parallel. (2200uf 25v +- 20%).When I went to buy replacements they had 3 2200uf 50 volt capacitors, from 3 different manufacturers. All of them test well withing the 20% range, but I'm wondering if 2 of these could be put in parallel with no adverse effects.Thanks in advance.Clif

author: George Edmonds
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2024, 09:22:44 am
content: Modern capacitors are much smaller, just buy one 4700 uf at 25VG Edmonds

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2024, 09:57:45 am
content: Mismatched bulk aluminum electrolytic capacitors in parallel will work fine.Quote from: George Edmonds on October 19, 2024, 09:22:44 amIt does not matter in this case, however modern capacitors which are physically smaller for the same capacitance and voltage also have lower ripple current ratings. If the ripple current rating must be preserved, then a higher voltage capacitor or multiple capacitors in parallel should be used. A higher voltage capacitor might also be used for wider lead spacing or larger diameter to fit better.

author: George Edmonds
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2024, 10:42:13 am
content: WRONGMost modern electrolytic capacitors are not only smaller but have a higher ripple current rating especially if you use 105C working ones.It is NOT a good idea to parallel electrolytic capacitors unless they have the same ESR as the lower ESR one will carry most of the load.G Edmonds

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2024, 03:46:19 pm
content: Quote from: George Edmonds on October 19, 2024, 10:42:13 amThat has not been my experience. For old capacitors where the ripple current rating is specified and matters, I have repeatedly had problems finding suitable replacements and have had to rely on increasing the voltage rating and sometimes the capacitance, even with 105C capacitors, to meet their ripple current ratings.QuoteIt will not matter in this case because the input capacitors are specified for bulk capacitance rather than ESR or ripple current rating.
Should I replace this cap ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: decoder_82
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2023, 04:50:47 am
content: Hi everyone,I am repairing a power supply unit from a Sony TT-FE1.The filter cap has a strange look. Like if there is some coating on it.It tests ok with the ESR meter (0.3 ohm) for a 200uF 400v.

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2023, 12:56:34 pm
content: The big input caps are usually pretty reliable. Coating looks like some sort of electrical insulation.

author: decoder_82
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2023, 04:16:07 am
content: Thanks, that's the first time I see such coating. Indeed doesn't seems to be leak of electrolytic fluid.
Shumacher charger SE-5212-A-CA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: stevepatterson1961
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 13, 2024, 05:22:33 pm
content: Hello all -Trying to debug my charger - First, all the docs I can find on this model number show a meter and two switches - but my unit has no meter and no switches. I assume they removed them for cost reduction - are there internal jumpers or 0-ohm resistors that provide function of the missing switches?I am trying to recharge a 12V battery that was sitting all winter and it is reading about 6V after I warmed it up. The charger has only a single button to start charge, and when I press it, it starts to charge (18V seen at charge terminals), but then stops and shuts down after 5 seconds every time. What might be causing the charger to abort? I have disassembled the unit and the control board looks good to me.Thanks for any ideas/suggestions.Steve

author: tunk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2024, 05:36:25 pm
content: I think 6V for a 12V battery is well into the dead range,and the charger may think the same and shuts off.And your image size is zero.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2024, 06:39:14 pm
content: A discharged 12V battery can not show only 6V. Such a low voltage can only mean the battery is dead, and the charger detects the abnormal battery and auto-disconnects. Most probably the charger is OK.If the battery has refilling caps (though this is highly unlikely nowadays), check that all the elements have acid, and eventually replenish or change the electrolyte. I've tried 2-3 times to "recover" Pb batteries (various ways) and it never worked. Most common failure is that pieces of the paste that makes the filling of the plates become brittle, and fall on the bottom of the container. That kind of damage is permanent.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2024, 07:44:07 pm
content: There may be nothing wrong with the charger- it outputs 18V to initiate charging- but sees no current drain and cancels.You can try add a car light bulb load when the 18V appears and it should fool it.I think your battery is pooched, badly sulphated. This means two problems that smart chargers can have issues with. The terminal voltage being low, say a few V many will refuse to initiate charging- but not a problem here.And the battery looks like an open circuit, until you give it some high voltage to clear some of the sulfate. A bench power supply with current-limiting I'll use a few amps and up to 20V until the battery starts drawing enough and goes down to its usual terminal voltage. It might boil too for a short period. But this is all you can do.
Shure Wireless Receiver Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Yamin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2023, 07:24:37 am
content: Hi guys,I have got faulty Shure BLX4 wireless system in for repair. The wireless microphone does not 'lock' to the receiver and hence no audio (the ready LED is not illuminated).I have checked the wireless microphone whether it transmits. I was able to see and hear transmission using my SDR.So I'm assuming the issue is with the receiver.I couldn't find schematic for this model and have checked out schematics of other models which are from Shure and they are not similar.I'm pretty new to RF electronics though its something I am really interested in.I was hoping to get some idea on how to go on troubleshooting with this.Thanks in advanceP.S I wasn't sure if I should have posted in the RF section of the forum.

author: Vicus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2023, 06:49:06 am
content: I can't help you much but I suggest you to find another working system and try to swap transmitter and receiver. The fact that it trnasmit something doesn't mean it transmit the right signal. There is some pilot tone that receiver use to recognise the right signal from the noise and if it don't work rf led not light up.
Si-320z monitor help  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Eastbayraym
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 17, 2021, 02:51:03 pm
content: So I got this sharper image monitor that’s got some problemsthere is some kind of interference across the middle of the screen and the overall screen is waving rolls left to rightanyone know how to fix this?checked it in two different cabinets and with multiple pcbsfound a owners manual for a different model that says it could be something with the yokehere is a videohttps://youtu.be/Guhg7U0C_Tw

author: Manul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2021, 08:26:43 pm
content: To me it does not look like a sweep problem. Maybe excessive power supply ripple? Dry capacitors?
Si7768 Schlumberger  documentation wanted - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: olliisit
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 04, 2022, 11:51:51 am
content: Hi there ,I bought several things including a Schlumberger Si7768 Video Signal AnalyzerAfter Power Supply Repair and some other minor fixes it seems to be working overall.But I have no documentation whatsoever.I havent found anything , neither on free or paid sites.So , I am looking for : -Datasheet-Operating Manual-even Service ManualThanks in advance