Bench Power Supply Kit  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: MrWizerd
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 12:14:44 am
content: So I bought a Bench Power Supply Kit from eBay. It works, I put it together, and I had fun doing it. I don't know how it compares to professional units, but for now it does the trick, and I built it. NOW I want to learn a lot more things so Here is the link to the boardeBay Linkand the schematic as it is...Schematic Linkand the full manual as such.Power Supply ManualI learned a bit while assembling this, I learned some things about it I did not like, or would have done a little differently in the board design and I may do some modifications to the one I have built when I go to put them into a box to use. I even built a little 24vDC to 12vDC breakout for the fan so I could use my salvaged fan with its thermister controlled fan, and to supply the little AMP/VOLT meter I got to put on the unit so it has constant power as well as the outs are variable. I also upgraded the voltage pot to a ten turn, this was essential to make this kit worth anything the pot it comes with is about 3/4 turn and 0-32v in that short a span is silly. I also added a few heat sinks to the 7824 and D1047 the D882 came with one. SO here is were I get to the part were I am wondering about things and am looking for some noob guidance.I know that the unit currently converts 24v AC to a variable voltage and current. I know that the first step it goes through is the 4 Bridge Rectifier Diodes( I am not sure if that is the correct term if they are not in a single bridge rectifier unit but I think it still is) The bridge rectifier diodes these are of course D1-D4 The first stop out of there is to Q3 which is the 7824 This supplies the fan port with 24vDC steady, I am not 100% sure that is all it does, which is why I built the other board to do the 24vDC-12vDC I did not want to mess with my only working power supply so one of the things I am looking to try on my new board is to see what changing the 7824 to the 7812 will do to the unit as a whole. The next thing I wanted to find out is if I could make this unit push out negative voltage instead of positive. I know some things like oscilloscopes and such need negative voltage so I thought I would try to figure out how to do that. Now I know there are negative voltage units like the 79xx I believe are all negative so if I put for instance a 7924 in the place of the 7824 it would be trying to put out negative voltage though I am not sure that it can convert positive to negative. The problem I am having is that this schematic is not labeled, when the new board comes in I will be able to trace most of it out and figure out what goes were but even then I am unsure if I will be able to figure out how to make it output negative voltage and my biggest worry is that the op amps are some how producing the outputs. But after watching the OpAmp tutorial I am not positive that it could do that but it seems like if the negative terminal voltage is higher than the positive input terminal voltage on the op amp the V+ on the op amp would produce a negative output. So it seems feasible that the op amps could do that which means that if the op amps are in fact responsible for the voltage I will have to hack the chips to get the positive and negative inputs reversed or something to output negative voltage. So The main question I have here, Is it possible to make this unit output negative voltage, if so does anyone have a hint for me as to where I should look/tinker, to find out how without totally telling me the answer? I would appreciate it... I want to learn but I don't want to bang my head against a wall if it just can not be done.You all have been so very helpful on my steep learning curve and I thank you greatly for it.

author: liquibyte
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 12:32:48 am
content: You're probably not going to get much help with this particular schematic and power supply here, it's generally regarded as a bad design but I've never gotten a true answer as to why. I've built two of these and have participated in the thread at the other forum I'm linking.http://electronics-lab.com/community/index.php?/topic/29563-0-30v-stabilized-power-supply/http://electronics-lab.com/community/index.php?/topic/26825-0-30-vdc-stabilized-power-supply/

author: SkyMaster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 12:52:35 am
content: Quote from: MrWizerd on October 03, 2015, 12:14:44 amYour power supply, as it is, is already able to "push out" negative voltage.In "normal operation", the negative output (-) is the reference (0 volt); and the positive (+) output is giving a positive voltage.If your postive (+) output is the reference (0 volt), then the negative output (-) is giving a negative voltage.If you were to hookup two such power supply in series, the point were the positive output of power supply no.1 is connected to the negative output of power supply no.2 would be your reference (0 volt). The negative output of power supply no.1 would be the negative supply, and the positive output of power supply no.2 would be the positive supply.You do not have to make any modification to your newly built power supply.

author: MrWizerd
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 04:48:10 am
content: Quote from: SkyMaster on October 03, 2015, 12:52:35 amI am sure there not the greatest power supplies in the world, but I like to put things together, and if I can use it to power a thing here or there, untill I am able to get a real supply together/bought well that's oKay! You know I love putting things together, and doing it a little better or a little differently, I would build models, but I am only ok at painting them, and I don't have the patience. I would make and modify miniatures for war games, but again I cant paint for crap. I can make tanks light up with fiber-optics, I can make little men that are assembled from a factory line vacuformer look like one of a kind. But it was all lost on these sad paint jobs if they ever were painted. After my accident standing over a table to play war games was way to hard anyways, so that hobby was set aside, and I have a bunch of others. I have always tinkered with things, and fixed them, and I find building diy kits good or bad is enjoyable for a few different reasons. So I am ok with them being equivalent of one step above toys, because I still learn a bit and have something to tinker with laterSo, SkyMaster, what your saying is if I have Red for positive and Black for negitive on one and Green for positive and white for negitive on the other, I could plug the red into the white and the green would give me negitive voltage and the black would be my ground. Would the I then be able to get + voltage from the combination of the red and white poles together while green give - and black completes the circut?

author: FlyingHacker
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 05:06:35 am
content: You would wire the two in series and use the center point as your "ground" zero volt reference.Think of the two supplies as two D cell batteries in a flashlight...(a) - oooooo + (b) - oooooo + (c)If you use point b as your zero volt reference then point a has - 1.5V and point c has +1.5V (assuming each supply is 1.5V).Try it with a couple of batteries in series first to make sure you get the concept. Connect your meter up to the three different terminals in different ways and note the readings, and their polarity.You will need to be sure your supplies are not tied to earth ground (or, only at the zero reference point b). If they each have their negative side tied to ground this isn't going to work.

author: liquibyte
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 05:46:03 am
content: I'm intimately familiar with this project which is why I pointed you to those two links. It's a lot of reading but you'll understand that if you're using the circuit in the schematic that you posted you'll have issues with the supply because it's faulty. There is a revised version that works much better and doesn't suffer from the issues that the schematic you posted does. Scroll down to my post #4hereand you'll see the dual version of this that I built.As for getting a positive and negative supply out of this configuration, see the attached image of a mockup of the front panel I did. Positive output on the left hooked to the negative output on the right and used as the ground point gets you a 0-30V negative on the left and a 0-30V positive on the right. Easy, no?

author: rwgast_lowlevellogicdesin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 06:08:42 am
content: Hmmm I really thinking about buying two of these kits to make a PSU. I looked threw those threads but they were so long, exactly what problems does the PSU in the ebay kit have? Its nice to get somethings in kit form and mindlessly solder. Are these issues fixable on the kit PCB?Dont get me wrong its easy enough to get the new layout and get a PCB from oshpark but for 11 bucks, per kit there has to be some major issues for me to go through all the work of sourcing components and pcb's

author: liquibyte
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 06:24:40 am
content: There are a couple of issues that make the circuit in the schematic you posted result in poor performance and blown components. First, you're going to have issues with heat on Q4. The new configuration uses two TO-3's in parallel with emitter resistors to overcome this problem. R7 needs to be a higher wattage, something like 10W or bigger. I used 16W aluminum chassis mount versions and have active cooling over them. The transformer is underpowered in the original version and would have a hard time keeping up with 3A.You really don't have to read the entire threads, just start at the end and work backwards until you understand why the changes were made. These work and they work well if you build them right with decent margins on the components. I've had these loaded down fully @ 3A for hours and they perform excellently for all that. I've attached my Eagle files and gerbers just in case you want to have a look. Pay no attention to the 2oz recommendation in the readme file, my version has traces wide enough to account for 1oz copper.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 08:28:13 am
content: One issue with the circuit is to much current for Q4 and a rather small buffer cap. This is relatively easy to resolve by limiting the current to a lower level, of e.g. 1.5 - 2 A.The supply for the OPs might be a little to high depending on the type and transformer used. So you have to check there and may be add an extra limite, or use a lower volatage transformer (e.g. 20 V) and a lower maximum voltag.The current limiting is relatively slow to react. The shunt resistor is also not very stable, so current regulation will likely show considerable drift. The reference voltage is rather old style and may be a littel noisy. Otherwise regulation should not be that bad.If you use 2 units for a +- supply the diode D11 at the output should be larger (e.g 3-5 A versions).

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 03:36:00 pm
content: Still, not bad for the money.

author: rwgast_lowlevellogicdesin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 04:12:23 pm
content: I was just planning on using two 24v 2amp transformers from radioshack, since im not wanting to push 3 amps could I get away with just buying the kits and connecting a better diode and shunt? I dont think i would need parallel 3055's for that?

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 05:28:03 pm
content: A 2 amps transformer can delliver about 1-1.2 A of DC current at nominal load for the transformer. Up to about 2 A the 3055 or similar transistor should be OK, if well cooled.However 24 V AC might give up to about 36 V at no load after the rectifier, especially if the mains is on the high side. A small transformer also has higher voltage with no load. That is to much for an TL081, as the OP also gets some negative voltage (e.g. 5 v, though about 3-4 V would be enough). So it depends on the type of OP amp if this is OK - the OP needs to work with at least 8 V more than the maximum output voltage - so the TL081 can not be used to get 30 V at the output without violating it's 36 V supply limit. Otherwise a 20 V transformer would be the better choice thus having only about 24 V max. The alternative would be to use OPs that can stand more voltage (e.g. OP 07 - though rather slow, OP27 / OPA604 - slightly expensive). Its only the voltage regulator that really needs the high supply.The shunt resistor can stand enough heat, if used up to 2 A. Just expect some drift in the current limit - not only from the resistor, but possibly also from the OP.

author: liquibyte
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 06:38:45 pm
content: Quote from: Kleinstein on October 03, 2015, 05:28:03 pmThe revised version uses TLE2141's which eliminated some of these issues. They're a tad more expensive though.

author: rwgast_lowlevellogicdesin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 08:32:42 pm
content: Hmmm at this point i may just point to point the new schematic and order the parts. Im really only looking for +24/-24v output at 2amps. I figure if i need more amps than that im usually running something that will take dirty power just fine.Ok so what if i bought two ebay kits for convience and then added a better shunt and 5amp diode, but i used the tap on a 24v 2va transformer to get two 12 volt supply.. then i should be totally fine right? I mean were looking at 2 12v 2amp rails thats way below the 30v 3a rating. Do these supplys overshoot or anything? If not 22 bucks for kits and some volt/amp meters or even an lcd and micro is super cheap for a food quality linear supply.Right now im just using an adjustable 2amp smps wal wart for most things

author: MrWizerd
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 06:21:50 am
content: This is all great information, I will work though the other threads and check the new schematic, and upgrade the parts. Currently I have a Honeywell AT120B1028 transformer 24v 20va transformer on it at the moment. I will probably go through and upgrade it, I knew it was not the greatest unit but for the price it was nice to go through and mindlessly solder like rwgast_lowlevellogicdesin said... I look at them as semi-functional models... But tweaking with them and finding out what is wrong and why and fixing them is how I am going to learn about them. I actually probably have most of the parts to correct the problems with this unit anyways. I have a pretty big collection of stuff now, I basically buy large assortments of stuff when I have the chance, and can find them. Some of the parts I am sure I will have to order, BUT I am sure that I will be upgrading the one I have assembled and building the second one from the ground up, I ACTUALLY think I am going to buy a third just to build two correctly from scratch and then have an original so that I can test the differences and compare and such.Thanks for the links, I will defiantly be studying them this week, were doing my family's birthdays right now, my wife's was on the 27th of September my sons on the 28th(10) my step sons is on the fourth (18) So we do them all at once, Mine is at the end of the month on the 25th and my grandparents uses this one for all of them but we don't usually celebrate mine, and my wife has her "gathering" after the kids settle in and the adults are left over. At the moment the kids have settled into the rooms to play, or gone home, and I am on the computer available to help anyone who needs it while I rest my back and my wife and family and friends are outside drinking, and since I am the designated sober adult always I don't typically partake in that part of the party so I am catching up on threads.I bought into the arduino powered electrocardiogram from Silicon Chip Magazine, someone linked on another threadhttp://www.siliconchip.com.au/I am gonna put that together and play with it. I still need to find a site that has fun kits/boards that I can buy and assemble. This seems like it will be a bunch of fun.My son has a few friends that asked me if I could teach them some of the electronics, and when it comes to a lot of REALLY basic stuff I can teach these kids, like blinking leds and such teach them about resistors/transistors/diodes and such. It looks like I may be starting a beginning electronics/Arduino/RaspberryPI club. I just worry that they will get to the point they want more and I wont have it. The great thing is that my sons school has enough chrome books that ALL the sixth graders have there own, and there are something like 4 mobile labs for classrooms and the fifth and fourth graders are next for there chrome books. So we will have them to work with on arduino projects. I will probably be putting together a beginning kit with an Arduino Uno and some sensors resistors leads and everything and then a couple of basic led boards to learn about soldering and such. I have not looked at it all but I think I can do these kits for around 25 dollars for enough to get a weekly club meeting out of it for at least a few months. The nice thing is that the kids typically have parents that can afford it and I have enough extra already that I can help kids who cant. I am also on the School Board with one of the technology mentors so I am going to get her to help out as well if it all comes together I am hoping to get kids introduced early on and maybe put them on a path to become engineers. We sorely need more of them here in the states that are domestic so many of our children don't ever find anything to be passionate for and I am hoping to help this problem... With so little in the way of electives and shops left we parents really have to step up these days.

author: liquibyte
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 06:41:33 am
content: You might have an issue finding certain things because the owner of that board decided to change the forum software and things didn't go so smoothly I guess and a lot of the links are broken now. Here's my parts list so you can check out datasheets etc. over at digikey.Code:Off board parts1237-­1281­-NDXFRMR LAMINATED 130VA CHAS MOUNT1GBPC15005FS­-NDRECT BRIDGE GPP 15A 50V GBPC1A102127­-NDRES CHAS MNT 0.47 OHM 5% 16W2RSF2JTR330CT­-NDRES MO 2W .33 OHM 5% AXIAL1399-­5658­-NDCAP ALUM 15000UF 63V 20% SNAP22N3055GOS-­NDTRANS NPN 15A 60V TO31BD13910S-­NDTRANSISTOR NPN 80V 1.5A TO­1262987­-1523-­NDPOT 10K OHM 7/8" 10TURN WW1365-­1189-­NDLED 631NM TAPERED RED 5MMOn board parts1RSMF2JT2K20CT­-NDRES MO 2W 2.2K OHM 5% AXIAL1RSMF2JT82R0CT­-NDRES MO 2W 82 OHM 5% AXIAL1RSF1JT1K50CT-­NDRES MO 1W 1.5K OHM 5% AXIAL1220H­-NDRES 220 OHM 1/2W 5% AXIAL1CF14JT56K0CT­-NDRES 56K OHM 1/4W 5% CARBON FILM1CF14JT33K0CT­-NDRES 33K OHM 1/4W 5% CARBON FILM2CF14JT27K0CT­-NDRES 27K OHM 1/4W 5% CARBON FILM4CF14JT10K0CT-­NDRES 10K OHM 1/4W 5% CARBON FILM2CF14JT2K20CT-­NDRES 2.2K OHM 1/4W 5% CARBON FILM3CF14JT1K00CT­-NDRES 1K OHM 1/4W 5% CARBON FILM1CF14JT68R0CT-NDRES 68 OHM 1/4W 5% CARBON FILM1BZX85C10­-NDDIODE ZENER 10V 1W DO411BZX79C5V6­-NDDIODE ZENER 5.6V 500MW DO­3511N4001FSCT­-NDDIODE GEN PURPOSE 50V 1A DO4151N4148TACT­-NDDIODE SMALL SIG 100V 0.2A DO352399-6631-NDCAP ALUM 47UF 100V 20% RADIAL (ESW476M100AH2AA)1399-5999-NDCAP FILM 10UF 63VDC RADIAL1399-­4173­-NDCAP CER 330PF 100V 5% RADIAL2399-­9707­-NDCAP CER 100PF 100V 5% RADIAL1399-­6037­-NDCAP FILM 0.22UF 100VDC RADIAL2399­-5861­-NDCAP FILM 0.1UF 100VDC RADIAL3A98334­-NDTERM BLOCK 3POS SIDE ENT 2.54MM62A98333­-NDTERM BLOCK 2POS SIDE ENT 2.54MM13296W­-502LF-­NDTRIMMER 5K OHM 0.5W PC PIN13296W-­203LF-­NDTRIMMER 20K OHM 0.5W PC PIN13296W­-104LF-­NDTRIMMER 100K OHM 0.5W PC PIN1BC557BGOS­-NDTRANS AMP PNP 45V 100MA TO­923296­-10456-­5-­NDIC OPAMP GP 5.9MHZ 8DIP33M5473­-NDSOCKET IC OPEN FRAME 8POS .3"That's a bunch of birthdays all at once. Mine was on the 3rd and I think you might get a laugh out of this but I actually thought I was a year older than I am. I'm not sure how I feel about that.

author: MrWizerd
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 08:43:24 am
content: Quote from: liquibyteWell happy b...... woah wait what? That totally just detailed the thread. Trains not comin' to the station no mo. How l long have you thought you were a year older AND as if anyone who drops a statement like that should have to be asked this cause it's the obvious next question, HOW?! please excuse the not of incredulity in my voice but like don't people, governments, tax assays, or heck the good folks that run the orbital mind lasers keep track of and remind timing of your birthdate and age? Heck I could run a search on Google of my name and probably find what I ate for dinner.Uh.... Wow.. Man that has GOT to be a story and now my OCD kicks in and wonders till I know thanks a TON  .. Lol anyway back to the topic I will look at the threads now I'm curious if a breakout board needs to be made or what.... fun stuff. Monday can't be here soon enough, tomarrow I may get a chance but seeing add the wife will be watching American football and working on homework, and my son has around 450$ in cash check and card swag from his birthday burning a whole I his re my pocket (dropped a hundred dollar prepaid via on the concrete outside I had found it lucky him) we (again I) will be going going get his Wii U or PS4 don't know which he has chosen this rhinestone leftmost I heard it was the Wii U . He wants splatoon and Mario builder... Not to mention cleaning the house that staff trashed after spending four days cleaning it. I never understood cleaning for a .party for kids knowing they are going to tab the place. A nice dinner party site, not a kids party with a eater slide turning grass to mud. But hey that's a different forum. Hopefully I will get to look into it soon.I think I will go order a second new board to alter and maybe see what else I may need to order. I am sure I will have more related things to post soon. And depending on response some off topic as well.Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

author: MrWizerd
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 09:25:34 am
content: So I am going to sound a little ... Noobish here but I have given the links a once over on my phone and it seems one of two thing has happened someone took the original schematic and built a super cheap version of it and some it on Alibaba or something and now it's all over eBay, failure prone from heat and stuff (I caught onto this part while building and dinner the heck out of the transistors) meanwhile the project was still being hashed out, or someone got hold of this and built it then proceeded to rebuild it fixing the mistakes. Did one or both of those dim up what happened? Also how did you make, or where did you purchase your boards? I assume you layed them out, and I am assuming I won't be able to just part for part swap stuff using the board from eBay and while some parts may be useful it seems most of it will need to be replaced.I also noticed you have displays separately for current and voltage are these self contained meters or are you somehow driving them from the board(this I doubt but had to ask) I got one of theseHEREthat does both and against my meter is accurate if slightly off by .1v which I think is to spec and if I recall is consistent. I just want sure of there was a better option. Also is your housing and face plate in the BoM?There is do much I want to ask and do little space... I really wish I could find like minded individuals in my corner of California I call it's armpit... Anyways I digress.Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

author: liquibyte
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 04:49:23 pm
content: Quote from: MrWizerd on October 04, 2015, 08:43:24 amI'm not exactly sure why but all of last year I thought I was 47, turns out I was only 46. How it happened I couldn't tell you, I just know that I don't often think about things like that.Quote from: MrWizerd on October 04, 2015, 09:25:34 amI'm sure someone in China does web scraping to get ahold of projects to put up on Ebay. The problem with this particular project for them is that the owner of electronics-lab has never updated the original project on the projects page there. This is also why the project discussions in the forum are so long. People come by and want to build this, find there's two forum posts for this and start asking questions. It usually takes a couple of pages before they understand that the original won't work right. If you read through the threads, you'll notice that the same questions get answered over and over again. Specifically, what is the latest version of the schematic. That project is a mess to be honest.Several attempts at fixing mistakes were given a go by at least six people including myself. One of the more successful ones washerebut still suffered from a few issues. One of the problems, even with the revisions, was transients on startup and shutdown. The circuit around Q1 in the original took care of the shutdown transient so I added it back in later on but I'm not sure if my boards reflect that change or not. I had already made the boards so I just soldered components to the bottom to bodge them in.Yeah, I did the layout myself and if I did it again I'd do it differently, this was my first time. I had them done at Itead and they did a nice job too. Most of the parts are ok to keep the same actually. Changing things around will depend on certain things. I'd recommend ditching the TL081's for the TLE2141's, especially if you end up using a 28V 4.6A transformer otherwise you'll end up overloading the op amps.I'm going to really confuse you now and tell you that there's also a 5A version of this as well. I have no experience with that one though so I'm not sure exactly what got changed other than adding an extra TO-3, the transformer and the sense resistor.Quote from: MrWizerd on October 04, 2015, 09:25:34 amThat panel is a mockup and I haven't actually built the displays yet. I wanted to try my hand at designing my own but haven't gotten around to it yet. Once I get there they will be on a seperate supply though. The displays you linked will also have to have a seperate supply or at least a regulator circuit pre pass transistor off the boards (resistor/zener or vreg etc).The case I used is aunicasebut it is rather expensive for a hobby enclosure. I've got two of this project in this case plus the supporting circuits for displays, fans and temperature sense, so 3 transformers total. It's a beast but I haven't finished it off like I said.

author: MrWizerd
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 07:03:53 pm
content: Quote from: liquibyte on October 04, 2015, 04:49:23 pmTalk about a let down, here I was thinking that your mother put you in the wrong grade or something and you found your birhtcert and it told a different story or something.... WOW... your just absent minded like me. It's hard for me to forget how old I am because I was born in 1980 I just need to know what side of Oct 25 I am on, before it I add 20 to the last two numbers of the year, before, 19. I run into a problem were I forget the year.... that comes with being retired.Quote from: liquibyte on October 04, 2015, 04:49:23 pmI am ordering 6 of the TLE2141's now. The reason I ask if this board will work is because you have listed several replacements, like the 2w and 1w resisters I think I have the 1w with the kit, but the other two 2w wont fit on the board. I think that a LOT of these caps wont fit... not to mention the 3 trimmer pots two the one on the board, so I worry that I wont be able to make it work with this board. I think what I will do is set the new boards parts down and compare them to the BoM and then see what else I am going to need. If there was a better board that I could use I would buy it just need to know where to pick it up.Quote from: liquibyte on October 04, 2015, 04:49:23 pmI have a L7812CV that is being driven off the 24v fan port that is driven from the 7824 first it hits a resistor and led to show that the fan board is on, then hits a 1uF 50v electrolytic cap then the 7812 then a ceramic 104 cap and then two outputs one for my salvaged fan control board with a thermister for speed control, and an output for the Current/Volt Meter. I thought about building a board with the thermistor fan controller built in times 2 or three so that I can have two or three fans controlled from different spots in the box. Should I add a diode to this unit? I don't have a diagram for it I could try to draw the schematic in one program built its more for testing circuits (easy (every circuit) I tried to use eagle but its not really working for me. Suggestions on layout programs? Anyways I don't mind buying a different board just need to know which I should get I also need to know what I should do on the mains input I have some ideas there based on PC Power supplies but that later. I have some higher end Bridge Rectifier's and tons of diodes and caps, and transistors a plenty. I really would like to get this setup nice. One of the threads had a guy with two of these in a really nice black enclosure so he could use them individually or together... This sounds good to me. I need to figure out an enclosure to use but I really want to get the correct board/boards. I am going to send you a quick PM to ask you something. But again thanks!

author: liquibyte
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 08:36:28 pm
content: Quote from: MrWizerd on October 04, 2015, 07:03:53 pmPM sent.