ESM0601 datasheet - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: salviador
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2017, 11:52:19 am
content: I can't find this datasheet for STmicroelectronics ESM0601Why?Thi IC is mounted in Blue&me fiat carI would like to know what this component does, maybe is DC/DC converter

author: mgregor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 19, 2019, 10:32:58 am
content: I have same question. My B&M stopped working and comunicating with CAN. When I plug in module to car this chip start to heat up.Did you fix your module?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2019, 09:08:46 pm
content: It does look like a triple switchmode DC-DC converter (plus LDOs ?):https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3623737.htmlIf you trace the circuit, you may be able to substitute your own converter(s).You should be able to determine the PCB's onboard voltage requirements by referring to the datasheets for the ICs.For example, there is a Micron NAND flash, p/n NW140 (MT29F1G08ABCHC-ET:C):https://www.micron.com/support/tools-and-utilities/fbga?fbga=nw140This is a 1.8V part:https://www.infinite-electronic.ru/pdf/9ec2514946/MT29F1G08ABCHC-ET-C-TR.pdfThe ARM MCU's core probably runs off 1.2V or less.The D9JVC part is a 1.8V SDRAM (MT48H16M16LFBF-75 L IT:G):https://www.micron.com/support/tools-and-utilities/fbga?fbga=d9jvchttps://www.datasheet.directory/index.php?title=Special:PdfViewer&url=https%3A%2F%2Fdatasheet.iiic.cc%2Fdatasheets-0%2Fmicron_technology%2FMT48H16M16LFBF-6_H.pdfThe AIC23BI is a TLV320AIC23B Stereo Audio CODEC, 8-to 96-KHz, With Integrated Headphone Amplifier:www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlv320aic23b.pdfIt requires a 1.42V – 3.6V Core Digital Supply and a 2.7V – 3.6V Buffer and Analog Supply. Therefore I suspect that one of the converters generates 3.3V.Edit:Could it be that the ESM0601 is heating up as a result of a current overload? Can you test for shorts to ground at each of the filter capacitors on the Vouts?The ESM0601 would probably incorporate some kind of power control so that the supplies are sequenced correctly. Normally the MCU's Vio rail (1.8V) would need to come up before its Vcore.Edit #2:It's a totally different chip, but it might give some insight into the design philosophy behind the ESM0601:https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/l5962.pdf

author: mgregor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 20, 2019, 05:35:50 pm
content: Hey! Thx for info. That's my topic on elektroda forum :-)"Can you test for shorts to ground at each of the filter capacitors on the Vouts?"Are you talking about this 3 big capacitors? Is there any difference between which pins I will check is there shorts to ground on capacitors?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2019, 09:27:59 pm
content: Just measure the resistances of each of the 3 large capacitors.

author: mgregor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 11:47:53 am
content: Thx for tip. Today I will solder them out and measure.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2019, 04:56:09 pm
content: Measure them in-circuit. In this way you will be measuring the resistances of the loads on each of the 3 supplies.

author: mgregor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 12:30:50 pm
content: You mean that I shouldn't solder them out or measure them with resistor in series after solder out?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2019, 09:12:20 pm
content: Quote from: mgregor on October 22, 2019, 12:30:50 pmYes.You need to determine whether the IC is getting hot because it is bad, or because one of its loads is shorted.

author: mgregor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 23, 2019, 06:56:18 pm
content: I5T 1000 25 - resistance rises from ~1.5 kohm -> infinityi3t 330 35 - resistance rises from ~1 kohm -> infinityi3t 330 35 - resistance rises from ~1.5 kohm -> infinityCoil above the capacitors (with blue ring) have all four pins shorted to themselves. Is that ok?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2019, 07:20:24 pm
content: The coils look OK. It does appear that the chip is bad.

author: printplaatreparatie.nl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2020, 02:24:18 pm
content: Hi Salviador, did you find the problem? I have 3 B&M modules for repair with a weird short.Voltage over the big cap hardly exceeds 1V @ 0,5A only when the small caps are in place. Small caps are charged to about 6V by boosting though the coil with the coil with the blue ring. This is done by a mosfet on the back.However, when I power the small caps directly to 12v, there is a brief current spike (limited to 200mA, about half a second) and then nothing.There is a trace ging to the big IC, but after cutting this trace, the problem persist. I can go further with the troubleshooting, but I thought I'd better give this topic a shot before diving in.Hope someone has experience with this problem..

author: printplaatreparatie.nl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 02:19:19 pm
content: I went further, and desoldered the ESM0601. After desoldering, the voltage (supplied to the big cap) went up to 5V when limited to 220mA (specified at the outside of the unit). However after cleaning the flux, it did not draw any current again so I disregard the first measurement.In de Polish forum (https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3623737.html) it is mentioned that the first three pins of the ESM ic are shorted. As you can see in de attached pictures, the first two are connected on the pcb. It is not visible where the third trace is leading to. The trace is however shorted to ground. I measured it with the curve tracer (octopus) and it is just a dead short, it has no inductance. No component got hot after I ran 1,5 amp through the short circuit (the voltage drop was around 200mV measured at the solder points).Internally none of the first three pins are shorted. They appear as a diode on the curve tracer.As I mentioned in the previous post, I did cut the fourth trace earlier, but I dont suspect a problem there.I just ordered new ESM's, maybe its just that chip which is causing the problems.

author: printplaatreparatie.nl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2020, 12:40:46 pm
content: I finally received my chips. I ordered 10, because I really suspected the IC to be the problem. However I had no luck after the replacement of the ESM0601.To be sure, I replaced the same chip on an untouched board. Problem is still the same: 1V @ 0,5A and the mosfet on the back gets hot because it has to provide too much current to the blue inductor.I did not remember wether I had checked the inductors, so I checked all three and can confirm that they are ok. However, only two pads of the two chokes without the blue ring are connected, contrary to four as mgregor mentioned -if I understood it correctly-:Quote from: mgregor on October 23, 2019, 06:56:18 pmI also did another test with the thermal camera. Its frustrating that the mosfet is the only part that is getting hot. (The mosfet is already replaced, in case you were wondering).I guess this is where the project ends for me. Maybe someone brighter than me can point me in the right direction, but right now, I have no idea how to proceed. I hope this topic is helpful to anyone that might find it in the future. In that case: good luck!

author: markushalla
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 07, 2020, 01:39:04 pm
content: I also have a Blue&Me PCB with the same fault to repair.What I have found out till now:The big 1000 capacitor is for stabilizing the battery voltage before it is supplied into the ESM0601.The first stage is an boost converter with the MOSFET as switch, the coil with the blue ring and the two smaller 330 capacitors for a stabilized intermediate voltage.As the MOSFET switch is a shortcut between the supply voltage and ground any fault in the control of the MOSFET leads to a too high load.When testing the MOSFET gate pin with an oscilloscope and a main supply voltage around 3V I saw that the gate voltage was very disturbed and much too long active.Then I supplied 12V directly to the plus side of these two 330 capacitors and the board seems to work basically:The secondary voltages where generated: 2 x 5V at the 2 black coils; 1.4, 1.8, 2.7 and 3.3V at the four capacitors on the other side of the ESM0601The two clock sources are operating correctCPU and RAM gets warmThe MOSFET gate voltage was regularly, but of course there was no voltage it could switchBut unfortunately the CAN receiver stays in power down mode because the two control transistors, on the board edge left of the power pins of the main connector, are not switched on.I will try to replace my ESM0601. Only if this doesn't help I would also manually enable the CAN receiver.

author: printplaatreparatie.nl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2020, 12:13:48 pm
content: Thanks for posting! Please keep us informed, as there are more clients with the same problem that I couldn't help.By the way, I still have some ESM0601 laying around. If you are in need, let me know!

author: mangodan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 30, 2021, 12:33:09 pm
content: Recently had one of these come my way. Water damage. The boost converter on the input threw me at first, wasnt exepecting that, but then I recalled the vehicle its out of has stop/start. I assume its to stop the thing browning out and rebooting part way through a call. Anyway due to the boost converter on the input and apparently no UVLO it does present as a short if insuficient current is available to get the voltage up quickly. All I had to do (the board having already been cleaned) was replace the ESM0601 and it is reportedly working fine now. I had a clue it was likely ok in that the power rails looked feasible oscs running, CAN bus was sending messages and the audio line out had some hiss and noise on it. But I had no way to really test it. There was no bluetooth service showing up, this has to be enabled by the vehicle and probably user input.

author: Makovnik
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 14, 2022, 08:33:39 pm
content: Hey there;I have same trouble with B&M unit.ESM0601 heats as well; I've replaced it with new one, symptoms are still there.I have 12V over large caps, but 0 at blue coil. Also 2 black chokes has 0V, but they're getting slightly warm.What I consider being not correct, is voltage at some stabilizers, seen in picture attachment. One has only 0.5V over pins, while on other side of PCB there's large (I guess diode?) Which has only 0.3V, but other ones next to it has 5V. Mosfet 8pin chip has 4pins short on one side and 3 on counterpart ,but it looks to be correct according to datasheet.There's some 4pin diode or what it is ? on front - it has 0V when board is connected. Also capacitor next to it has 0V. {on picture}. It has 2pins short, but it seems to be mounting only, because I cannost find any other point, where it could connect.ESM seems to be ok in the end, but there some other short. I dont know which one.But whem Im measuring all smd parts, everything looks quite ok, no shorts.

author: MarkC
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2025, 06:37:11 pm
content: Firstly, just clear up a misunderstanding for those who come across this thread. The FET on the back on the board (IRF7484Q) will always be on and getting warm unless you power up the ESM0601 with 12V. Sticking in a couple of voltage and current limiting will result in the ESM0601 not starting up and the FET's gate having the input voltage applied to it (so permanently on). This is not a faulty FET or ESM chip it just needs 12V to fire it up correctly.I have another one here that has pin 3 of the ESM short to ground. It is not the ESM as I have removed it, did anyone ever find the short on this trace?Like others I have both 5V, the 3.3V, 2.75V, 1.8V & 1.4V outputs all present. The boost circuit is not being switched on but I think that is because the board is sleeping/not booted.Any help will be much appreciated as always. An ESM0601 datasheet would be great as well. Thanks.

author: MarkC
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2025, 07:15:23 pm
content: Hold the phones, pin 3 of the ESM0601 is not shorted to ground, there is a 0.2 Ohm resistor to ground. Pin 3 is the current sense for the boost FET (IRF7484Q). The 0.2 Ohm resistor is between source and ground on the FET.So, the ESM0601 is still alive. All the rails are present, the 32 Khz clock is there and the ARM CPU is getting warm.I am guessing at this point but I think the board has booted and is sitting there trying to communicate with the world but it can't. I have known CANBUS transceivers go bad on vehicle ECU's before so I think I will try to track them down.I will post the solution if I can get this board to boot as it seems a very common issue.

author: MarkC
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 06, 2025, 06:04:46 pm
content: Well, my theory was wrong. The CANBUS IC is a TJA1055T and it is disabled - Pins 5 & 6 are both low. Likewise, the MAX8586 USB current limiter IC is also turned off hence no 5V on the USB port.This board is hanging for an as yet unknown reason. The blue coil that is the input boost converter kicks in below about 9.5V. The black coil nearest the edge of the board is being driven by the ESM0601. It generating 4.1V, this seems unusual but I have no datasheet or schematic so who knows? The coil below is not been driven but has a clean 5.03V on it, I think that is probably just fine.Perhaps the ESM0601 generates a power good signal and this is missing. This would cause the ARM CPU to halt the boot but without a datasheet or a schematic this is not looking great.Any ideas would be much appreciated.

author: Automods
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 04, 2025, 10:18:40 am
content: Quote from: MarkC on April 06, 2025, 06:04:46 pmHi Guys, I'm new here, but have seen these many times before.Your theory is actually bang on, The NAND (NW140) becomes corrupt, usually after a flat battery and Jump Start scenario, they get stuck in a loop and will not do anything other than get warm and drain the car battery after 4 days and also leave you with a flashing dash mileage.These Blue&Me units are a right pain in the neck, Unfortunately it is not even just a case of copying another one and writing it back to yours, you will need to read the faulty one ( they are usually readable) and save the configuration data (as yours will not work again without it) add the config data to your repair dump and reflash.As you are using the correct config you will not even have to go through the proxi alignment process.