OT Abbott vows to 'shirt-front' Putin - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Homer J Simpson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 03:54:53 pm
content: Way off topic but humorous. Only relevance to this forum being Australia.http://www.cnn.com/2014/10/14/world/asia/australia-russia-abbott-putin-shirt-front/index.html

author: Homer J Simpson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 03:57:07 pm
content: Way off topic but humorous. Only relevance to this forum being Australia.http://www.cnn.com/2014/10/14/world/asia/australia-russia-abbott-putin-shirt-front/index.html

author: TVHeadedRobots
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 04:01:12 pm
content: Hi,I'm curious to get some input on a circuit I'm working on. I've attached a schematic below. Basically I have an application that requires me to use a current transformer to sense whether a brushed motor is running. To do this I've used a bridge rectifier to rectify the signal I then do some signal conditioning and run that into a comparator (the application requires the weird solution.) Simple enough, but here is the question. I've tested the bridge rectified using 4 SS24 diodes and it seems to work fine. I used the SS24s because they were in my BOM but they have since been eliminated (replaced with double diodes.) I was thinking about replacing the 4 SS24s with a bridge rectifier like the DF005S-E3/45 (http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/427/dfs-240405.pdf). Looking at the datasheet I can't really determine how this is going to work with all of the high frequency content present in my signal when they are really designed to work at 50 / 60 Hz. Maybe this is a dumb question and it doesn't really matter. I also have some parts on the way to test, but I was curious to get some input on this as well. Thanks for the help.Skip

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 04:23:06 pm
content: I just got a brand-spanking new Rigol MSO2072A-S, with firmware version 00.03.00.SP1, hardware version 2.2. I have been finding that after a couple of minutes of operation, none of the front panel keys or knobs work. The scope is still live updating the waveforms, but the entire user interface has been disabled. There doesn't seem to be any correlation to what I'm doing on the UI when it locks up, but it is definitely only the UI that fails me.Does anyone else have this problem? Is it specific to one particular combination of running features (ie, source channels, input channels, LA channels, etc)? Rebooting the scope via the front power button clears the problem, but it is very frustrating nevertheless.

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 04:30:45 pm
content: If the low-pass filter in the analog front end of the scope is not a high order filter with a steep curve behind the cut-off frequency it does not suppress the higher frequencies well. That is noted!But if my signals in my electronic design have limited frequencies, then the only higher frequencies to expect is either unexpected interference or harmonic frequencies.Let's say the highest frequency of my signal is 25 MHz. What higher frequencies can I expect in my design?The reason why I am asking, is that there is tons of discussions here about higher frequencies that can cause aliasing, but where do these higher frequencies come from in the first place?If you have good visibility about the actual signals which you are measuring, then there should be no risk right? These high frequencies can not just come out of the blue, right?If the highest frequency is 100 MHz, on which frequency can I expect the 2nd harmonic?Isn't the second harmonic far enough away to be cut off by the low-pass filter in the Rigol DS1074Z? Where to expect the harmonics or other noise sources in terms of frequency location?

author: pascal_sweden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 04:32:21 pm
content: If the low-pass filter in the analog front end of the scope is not a high order filter with a steep curve behind the cut-off frequency it does not suppress the higher frequencies well. That is noted!But if my signals in my electronic design have limited frequencies, then the only higher frequencies to expect is either unexpected interference or harmonic frequencies.Let's say the highest frequency of my signal is 25 MHz. What higher frequencies can I expect in my design?The reason why I am asking, is that there is tons of discussions here about higher frequencies that can cause aliasing, but where do these higher frequencies come from in the first place?If you have good visibility about the actual signals which you are measuring, then there should be no risk right? These high frequencies can not just come out of the blue, right?If the highest frequency is 100 MHz, on which frequency can I expect the 2nd harmonic?Isn't the second harmonic far enough away to be cut off by the low-pass filter in the Rigol DS1074Z? Where to expect the harmonics or other noise sources in terms of frequency location?

author: SharpEars
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 04:41:59 pm
content: So I see dual primary transformer that looks like this:-\ || /-120 V primary -/ || \- 12.6 V secondary||-\ || /-120 V primary -/ || \- 12.6 V secondaryThe secondaries for the sake of discussion are rated at 10 amps each. What doesn't make sense to me is how to wire the primaries. I have a single 120 V outlet, so should I just connect the primaries in parallel to the single outlet (observing the dot polarity, of course, so as not to create a dead short). What if I don't do that and just leave one primary open and connect only the other to 120 V. What is the difference and what is the point of having two primaries, assuming that I only have a single AC source?

author: SharpEars
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 04:43:10 pm
content: So I see dual primary transformer that looks like this:-\ || /-120 V primary -/ || \- 12.6 V secondary||-\ || /-120 V primary -/ || \- 12.6 V secondaryThe secondaries for the sake of discussion are rated at 10 amps each. What doesn't make sense to me is how to wire the primaries. I have a single 120 V outlet, so should I just connect the primaries in parallel to the single outlet (observing the dot polarity, of course, so as not to create a dead short). What if I don't do that and just leave one primary open and connect only the other to 120 V. What is the difference and what is the point of having two primaries, assuming that I only have a single AC source?

author: nathancrum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 05:03:51 pm
content: I have an odd uCurrent reading anomaly I'm very curious if anyone can figure out.I recently bought a uCurrent for work and was measuring the current draw of an Analog Devices ADXL362 accelerometer. In the sleep/wakeup mode I was getting an expected ~250nA draw. Active mode, the nA range is maxed so I switch to uA and I get -116uA??First I thought maybe I had it connected backwards? Double check connections - nope - connections are right.Then maybe battery is dying? 2.9V - nope. Changed out a fresh 3.0V CR2032 anyway. No difference.If I measure with the DMM directly - I get ~5uA (expected draw).If I measure voltage on the current terminals of the uCurrent I get 0.04mV on 10ohm (uA range) and 48.35mV on 10kohm (nA range). Those both agree with ~5uA current draw just fine.So I thought maybe my uCurrent was busted. So I measured current on a 100k resistor with a variable DC supply from 0.1 to 1.0V and nope - all measurements are perfectly fine. I got 1.0 to 10uA no problems.I put it back on the ADXL362 and I get -100uA again. WTH?If anyone can think of a reason for why I get such bizarre readings using the uCurrent and the ADXL I'd love to hear it. The uCurrent appears ok, but something very strange is happening when connected to the ADXL and I have no idea why.

author: nathancrum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 05:05:02 pm
content: I have an odd uCurrent reading anomaly I'm very curious if anyone can figure out.I recently bought a uCurrent for work and was measuring the current draw of an Analog Devices ADXL362 accelerometer. In the sleep/wakeup mode I was getting an expected ~250nA draw. Active mode, the nA range is maxed so I switch to uA and I get -116uA??First I thought maybe I had it connected backwards? Double check connections - nope - connections are right.Then maybe battery is dying? 2.9V - nope. Changed out a fresh 3.0V CR2032 anyway. No difference.If I measure with the DMM directly - I get ~5uA (expected draw).If I measure voltage on the current terminals of the uCurrent I get 0.04mV on 10ohm (uA range) and 48.35mV on 10kohm (nA range). Those both agree with ~5uA current draw just fine.So I thought maybe my uCurrent was busted. So I measured current on a 100k resistor with a variable DC supply from 0.1 to 1.0V and nope - all measurements are perfectly fine. I got 1.0 to 10uA no problems.I put it back on the ADXL362 and I get -100uA again. WTH?If anyone can think of a reason for why I get such bizarre readings using the uCurrent and the ADXL I'd love to hear it. The uCurrent appears ok, but something very strange is happening when connected to the ADXL and I have no idea why.

author: nathancrum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 05:05:25 pm
content: I have an odd uCurrent reading anomaly I'm very curious if anyone can figure out.I recently bought a uCurrent for work and was measuring the current draw of an Analog Devices ADXL362 accelerometer. In the sleep/wakeup mode I was getting an expected ~250nA draw. Active mode, the nA range is maxed so I switch to uA and I get -116uA??First I thought maybe I had it connected backwards? Double check connections - nope - connections are right.Then maybe battery is dying? 2.9V - nope. Changed out a fresh 3.0V CR2032 anyway. No difference.If I measure with the DMM directly - I get ~5uA (expected draw).If I measure voltage on the current terminals of the uCurrent I get 0.04mV on 10ohm (uA range) and 48.35mV on 10kohm (nA range). Those both agree with ~5uA current draw just fine.So I thought maybe my uCurrent was busted. So I measured current on a 100k resistor with a variable DC supply from 0.1 to 1.0V and nope - all measurements are perfectly fine. I got 1.0 to 10uA no problems.I put it back on the ADXL362 and I get -100uA again. WTH?If anyone can think of a reason for why I get such bizarre readings using the uCurrent and the ADXL I'd love to hear it. The uCurrent appears ok, but something very strange is happening when connected to the ADXL and I have no idea why.

author: nathancrum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 05:07:11 pm
content: I have an odd uCurrent reading anomaly I'm very curious if anyone can figure out.I recently bought a uCurrent for work and was measuring the current draw of an Analog Devices ADXL362 accelerometer. In the sleep/wakeup mode I was getting an expected ~250nA draw. Active mode, the nA range is maxed so I switch to uA and I get -116uA??First I thought maybe I had it connected backwards? Double check connections - nope - connections are right.Then maybe battery is dying? 2.9V - nope. Changed out a fresh 3.0V CR2032 anyway. No difference.If I measure with the DMM directly - I get ~5uA (expected draw).If I measure voltage on the current terminals of the uCurrent I get 0.04mV on 10ohm (uA range) and 48.35mV on 10kohm (nA range). Those both agree with ~5uA current draw just fine.So I thought maybe my uCurrent was busted. So I measured current on a 100k resistor with a variable DC supply from 0.1 to 1.0V and nope - all measurements are perfectly fine. I got 1.0 to 10uA no problems.I put it back on the ADXL362 and I get -100uA again.If anyone can think of a reason for why I get such bizarre readings using the uCurrent and the ADXL I'd love to hear it. The uCurrent appears ok, but something very strange is happening when connected to the ADXL and I have no idea why.

author: nathancrum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 05:10:07 pm
content: I have an odd uCurrent reading anomaly I'm very curious if anyone can figure out.I recently bought a uCurrent for work and was measuring the current draw of an Analog Devices ADXL362 accelerometer. In the sleep/wakeup mode I was getting an expected ~250nA draw. Active mode, the nA range is maxed so I switch to uA and I get -116uA??First I thought maybe I had it connected backwards? Double check connections - nope - connections are right.Then maybe battery is dying? 2.9V - nope. Changed out a fresh 3.0V CR2032 anyway. No difference.If I measure with the DMM directly - I get ~5uA (expected draw).If I measure voltage on the current terminals of the uCurrent I get 0.04mV on 10ohm (uA range) and 48.35mV on 10kohm (nA range). Those both agree with ~5uA current draw just fine.So I thought maybe my uCurrent was busted. So I measured current on a 100k resistor with a variable DC supply from 0.1 to 1.0V and nope - all measurements are perfectly fine. I got 1.0 to 10uA no problems.I put it back on the ADXL362 and I get -100uA again.If anyone can think of a reason for why I get such bizarre readings using the uCurrent and the ADXL I'd love to hear it. The uCurrent appears ok, but something very strange is happening when connected to the ADXL and I have no idea why.

author: nathancrum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 05:11:39 pm
content: I have an odd uCurrent reading anomaly I'm very curious if anyone can figure out.I recently bought a uCurrent for work and was measuring the current draw of an Analog Devices ADXL362 accelerometer. In the sleep/wakeup mode I was getting an expected ~250nA draw. Active mode, the nA range is maxed so I switch to uA and I get -116uA??First I thought maybe I had it connected backwards? Double check connections - nope - connections are right.Then maybe battery is dying? 2.9V - nope. Changed out a fresh 3.0V CR2032 anyway. No difference.If I measure with the DMM directly - I get ~5uA (expected draw).If I measure voltage on the current terminals of the uCurrent I get 0.04mV on 10ohm (uA range) and 48.35mV on 10kohm (nA range). Those both agree with ~5uA current draw just fine.So I thought maybe my uCurrent was busted. So I measured current on a 100k resistor with a variable DC supply from 0.1 to 1.0V and nope - all measurements are perfectly fine. I got 1.0 to 10uA no problems.I put it back on the ADXL362 and I get -100uA again.If anyone can think of a reason for why I get such bizarre readings using the uCurrent and the ADXL I'd love to hear it. The uCurrent appears ok, but something very strange is happening when connected to the ADXL and I have no idea why. I would love to see a blog on why this is happening if someone can reproduce and/or figure it out.

author: nathancrum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 05:13:04 pm
content: I have an odd uCurrent reading anomaly I'm very curious if anyone can figure out.I recently bought a uCurrent for work and was measuring the current draw of an Analog Devices ADXL362 accelerometer. In the sleep/wakeup mode I was getting an expected ~250nA draw. Active mode, the nA range is maxed so I switch to uA and I get -116uA??First I thought maybe I had it connected backwards? Double check connections - nope - connections are right.Then maybe battery is dying? 2.9V - nope. Changed out a fresh 3.0V CR2032 anyway. No difference.If I measure with the DMM directly - I get ~5uA (expected draw).If I measure voltage on the current terminals of the uCurrent I get 0.04mV on 10ohm (uA range) and 48.35mV on 10kohm (nA range). Those both agree with ~5uA current draw just fine.So I thought maybe my uCurrent was busted. So I measured current on a 100k resistor with a variable DC supply from 0.1 to 1.0V and nope - all measurements are perfectly fine. I got 1.0 to 10uA no problems.I put it back on the ADXL362 and I get -100uA again.If anyone can think of a reason for why I get such bizarre readings using the uCurrent and the ADXL I'd love to hear it. The uCurrent appears ok, but something very strange is happening when connected to the ADXL and I have no idea why.

author: nathancrum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 05:16:24 pm
content: I can't get posting to work..

author: nathancrum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 05:16:40 pm
content: can't post

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:15:21 pm
content: So I've built a few things, but I've run out of ideas for things I actually need. Can anyone think of something challenging yet not too hard for me? As an indicator of my experience (not much) my larger projects (all finished) are below:-LM3886 amp-Bench PSU-2 way crossover/preamp-Autoranging ohm meter (schematic attached for reference as it's the most complex thing I've built so far)-VFD tube clock using Arduino (included my first step up reg, 5-30V)I realise asking this question is a bit like asking how long a piece of string is, but based on what I've built so far, what's something that would be a good next step?I can't think of anything I actually need right now, but I wouldn't mind just building something for the sake of it. Also something with digital might be a good idea (I don't think the Arduino clock really counts, it was really simple).Any thoughts?

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:15:48 pm
content: So I've built a few things, but I've run out of ideas for things I actually need. Can anyone think of something challenging yet not too hard for me? As an indicator of my experience (not much) my larger projects (all finished) are below:-LM3886 amp-Bench PSU-2 way crossover/preamp-Autoranging ohm meter (schematic attached for reference as it's the most complex thing I've built so far)-VFD tube clock using Arduino (included my first step up reg, 5-30V)I realise asking this question is a bit like asking how long a piece of string is, but based on what I've built so far, what's something that would be a good next step?I can't think of anything I actually need right now, but I wouldn't mind just building something for the sake of it. Also something with digital might be a good idea (I don't think the Arduino clock really counts, it was really simple).Any thoughts?

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:17:51 pm
content: So I've built a few things, but I've run out of ideas for things I actually need. Can anyone think of something challenging yet not too hard for me? As an indicator of my experience (not much) my larger projects (all finished) are below:-LM3886 amp-Bench PSU-2 way crossover/preamp-Autoranging ohm meter (schematic attached for reference as it's the most complex thing I've built so far)-VFD tube clock using Arduino (included my first step up reg, 5-30V)I realise asking this question is a bit like asking how long a piece of string is, but based on what I've built so far, what's something that would be a good next step?I can't think of anything I actually need right now, but I wouldn't mind just building something for the sake of it. Also something with digital might be a good idea (I don't think the Arduino clock really counts, it was really simple).Any thoughts?

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:26:47 pm
content: Quickly put a PIC16F883 on a breadboard with a hooked up HDSP-2111 display to be used a a simple DCF77 receiver to compare it to my GPSDO clock setup with a 18F4550...Oddly I am not always able to program the device with a PicKit3 as it complains the either device IDs won't match or the read back value from location 0 in program memory doesn't match...When the programming is successful....the internal oscillator is always set to 32kHz, regardless what I program into OSCCON....I found a thread somewhere else where one suggested to lower the Vcc voltage below 5V....anyone els having problems with PicKit3 and the 16F8 series in-circuit programming?

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:29:11 pm
content: Quickly put a PIC16F883 on a breadboard with a hooked up HDSP-2111 display to be used a a simple DCF77 receiver to compare it to my GPSDO clock setup with a 18F4550...Oddly I am not always able to program the device with a PicKit3 as it complains the either device IDs won't match or the read back value from location 0 in program memory doesn't match...When the programming is successful....the internal oscillator is always set to 32kHz, regardless what I program into OSCCON....I found a thread somewhere else where one suggested to lower the Vcc voltage below 5V....anyone els having problems with PicKit3 and the 16F8 series in-circuit programming?

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:30:27 pm
content: Quickly put a PIC16F883 on a breadboard with a hooked up HDSP-2111 display to be used a a simple DCF77 receiver to compare it to my GPSDO clock setup with a 18F4550...Oddly I am not always able to program the device with a PicKit3 as it complains the either device IDs won't match or the read back value from location 0 in program memory doesn't match...When the programming is successful....the internal oscillator is always set to 32kHz, regardless what I program into OSCCON....I found a thread somewhere else where one suggested to lower the Vcc voltage below 5V....anyone els having problems with PicKit3 and the 16F8 series in-circuit programming?

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:35:26 pm
content: So I've built a few things, but I've run out of ideas for things I actually need. Can anyone think of something challenging yet not too hard for me? As an indicator of my experience (not much) my larger projects (all finished) are below:-LM3886 amp-Bench PSU-2 way crossover/preamp-Autoranging ohm meter (schematic attached for reference as it's the most complex thing I've built so far)-VFD tube clock using Arduino (included my first step up reg, 5-30V)I realise asking this question is a bit like asking how long a piece of string is, but based on what I've built so far, what's something that would be a good next step?I can't think of anything I actually need right now, but I wouldn't mind just building something for the sake of it. Also something with digital might be a good idea (I don't think the Arduino clock really counts, it was really simple).Any thoughts?

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:37:02 pm
content: A local HackSpace has been bequested a large number of unused polarised electrolytic capacitors. My instinct is to bin them, but I wonder if I'm being unnecesarily pessimistic. Perhaps we should keep some and give spares to neighbouring HackSpaces - but I wouldn't want to knowingly give junk or waste our time debugging old capacitors!Characteristics:mostly aluminium cans, with a few tantalum beadsage unknown, but mostly "modern looking"storage conditions unknown, but no visible problems - in many small plastic bags in a big cardboard boxrange based on a cursory check: 10uF-2000uF, 6V-60V, ishmany are in ziplock bags from well-known big distributors that are still in existence!a range of manufacturers, e.g. Rubycon, Philips, Dubilier, Ricon, Waycombriefly testing a few shows they have in-spec valuesWhat are the likely failure modes, e.g. how would "drying out" manifest itself? Instant failure or failure after normal in-service lifetime?So, keep, bin, or more tests? If more tests, then what simple quick easy tests could be done? I'm not going to spend much of my remaining life inspecting them, but I'll do a quick sanity check.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:39:27 pm
content: A local HackSpace has been bequested a large number of unused polarised electrolytic capacitors. My instinct is to bin them, but I wonder if I'm being unnecesarily pessimistic. Perhaps we should keep some and give spares to neighbouring HackSpaces - but I wouldn't want to knowingly give junk or waste our time debugging old capacitors!Characteristics:mostly aluminium cans, with a few tantalum beadsage unknown, but mostly "modern looking"storage conditions unknown, but no visible problems - in many small plastic bags in a big cardboard boxrange based on a cursory check: 10uF-2000uF, 6V-60V, ishmany are in ziplock bags from well-known big distributors that are still in existence!a range of manufacturers, e.g. Rubycon, Philips, Dubilier, Ricon, Waycombriefly testing a few shows they have in-spec valuesWhat are the likely failure modes, e.g. how would "drying out" manifest itself? Instant failure or failure after normal in-service lifetime?So, keep, bin, or more tests? If more tests, then what simple quick easy tests could be done? I'm not going to spend much of my remaining life inspecting them, but I'll do a quick sanity check.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:40:31 pm
content: A local HackSpace has been bequested a large number of unused polarised electrolytic capacitors. My instinct is to bin them, but I wonder if I'm being unnecesarily pessimistic. Perhaps we should keep some and give spares to neighbouring HackSpaces - but I wouldn't want to knowingly give junk or waste our time debugging old capacitors!Characteristics:mostly aluminium cans, with a few tantalum beadsage unknown, but mostly "modern looking"storage conditions unknown, but no visible problems - in many small plastic bags in a big cardboard boxrange based on a cursory check: 10uF-2000uF, 6V-60V, ishmany are in ziplock bags from well-known big distributors that are still in existence!a range of manufacturers, e.g. Rubycon, Philips, Dubilier, Ricon, Waycombriefly testing a few shows they have in-spec valuesWhat are the likely failure modes, e.g. how would "drying out" manifest itself? Instant failure or failure after normal in-service lifetime?So, keep, bin, or more tests? If more tests, then what simple quick easy tests could be done? I'm not going to spend much of my remaining life inspecting them, but I'll do a quick sanity check.

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:40:56 pm
content: I am looking for single Li-Ion cells without any case or circuitry attached.They are for a school project, so we just need like 5-10 pieces for a few prototypes.If anyone knows a supplier please tell me. I checked all the usual electronic suppliers like Farnell, DigiKey, Mouser, etc. and also searched on Ebay without much success.My backup plan is to use Li-Po batteries for RC models, but they are larger because they are built for much more output power than I need and size is important in this case.

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:41:26 pm
content: I am looking for single Li-Ion cells without any case or circuitry attached.They are for a school project, so we just need like 5-10 pieces for a few prototypes.If anyone knows a supplier please tell me. I checked all the usual electronic suppliers like Farnell, DigiKey, Mouser, etc. and also searched on Ebay without much success.My backup plan is to use Li-Po batteries for RC models, but they are larger because they are built for much more output power than I need and size is important in this case.

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:42:01 pm
content: I am looking for single Li-Ion cells without any case or circuitry attached.They are for a school project, so we just need like 5-10 pieces for a few prototypes.If anyone knows a supplier please tell me. I checked all the usual electronic suppliers like Farnell, DigiKey, Mouser, etc. and also searched on Ebay without much success.My backup plan is to use Li-Po batteries for RC models, but they are larger because they are built for much more output power than I need and size is important in this case.

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:42:25 pm
content: I am looking for single Li-Ion cells without any case or circuitry attached.They are for a school project, so we just need like 5-10 pieces for a few prototypes.If anyone knows a supplier please tell me. I checked all the usual electronic suppliers like Farnell, DigiKey, Mouser, etc. and also searched on Ebay without much success.My backup plan is to use Li-Po batteries for RC models, but they are larger because they are built for much more output power than I need and size is important in this case.

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:43:39 pm
content: I am looking for single Li-Ion cells without any case or circuitry attached.They are for a school project, so we just need like 5-10 pieces for a few prototypes.If anyone knows a supplier please tell me. I checked all the usual electronic suppliers like Farnell, DigiKey, Mouser, etc. and also searched on Ebay without much success.My backup plan is to use Li-Po batteries for RC models, but they are larger because they are built for much more output power than I need and size is important in this case.

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:48:51 pm
content: So I've built a few things, but I've run out of ideas for things I actually need. Can anyone think of something challenging yet not too hard for me? As an indicator of my experience (not much) my larger projects (all finished) are below:-LM3886 amp-Bench PSU-2 way crossover/preamp-Autoranging ohm meter (schematic attached for reference as it's the most complex thing I've built so far)-VFD tube clock using Arduino (included my first step up reg, 5-30V)I realise asking this question is a bit like asking how long a piece of string is, but based on what I've built so far, what's something that would be a good next step?I can't think of anything I actually need right now, but I wouldn't mind just building something for the sake of it. Also something with digital might be a good idea (I don't think the Arduino clock really counts, it was really simple).Any thoughts?

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:52:42 pm
content: So I've built a few things, but I've run out of ideas for things I actually need. Can anyone think of something challenging yet not too hard for me? As an indicator of my experience (not much) my larger projects (all finished) are below:-LM3886 amp-Bench PSU-2 way crossover/preamp-Autoranging ohm meter (schematic here for reference as it's the most complex thing I've built so farhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0jxvpqBueg6MElyN0FGa0t4ODA/view)-VFD tube clock using Arduino (included my first step up reg, 5-30V)I realise asking this question is a bit like asking how long a piece of string is, but based on what I've built so far, what's something that would be a good next step?I can't think of anything I actually need right now, but I wouldn't mind just building something for the sake of it. Also something with digital might be a good idea (I don't think the Arduino clock really counts, it was really simple).Any thoughts?

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:57:31 pm
content: Quickly put a PIC16F883 on a breadboard with a hooked up HDSP-2111 display to be used a a simple DCF77 receiver to compare it to my GPSDO clock setup with a 18F4550...Oddly I am not always able to program the device with a PicKit3 as it complains the either device IDs won't match or the read back value from location 0 in program memory doesn't match...When the programming is successful....the internal oscillator is always set to 32kHz, regardless what I program into OSCCON....I found a thread somewhere else where one suggested to lower the Vcc voltage below 5V....anyone els having problems with PicKit3 and the 16F8 series in-circuit programming?

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:59:16 pm
content: I am looking for single Li-Ion cells without any case or circuitry attached.They are for a school project, so we just need like 5-10 pieces for a few prototypes.If anyone knows a supplier please tell me. I checked all the usual electronic suppliers like Farnell, DigiKey, Mouser, etc. and also searched on Ebay without much success.My backup plan is to use Li-Po batteries for RC models, but they are larger because they are built for much more output power than I need and size is important in this case.

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 06:59:59 pm
content: Quickly put a PIC16F883 on a breadboard with a hooked up HDSP-2111 display to be used a a simple DCF77 receiver to compare it to my GPSDO clock setup with a 18F4550...Oddly I am not always able to program the device with a PicKit3 as it complains the either device IDs won't match or the read back value from location 0 in program memory doesn't match...When the programming is successful....the internal oscillator is always set to 32kHz, regardless what I program into OSCCON....I found a thread somewhere else where one suggested to lower the Vcc voltage below 5V....anyone els having problems with PicKit3 and the 16F8 series in-circuit programming?

author: katzohki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:00:52 pm
content: I'm finding some pretty disturbing stuff lately and I was wondering if anyone has any recent or similar experiences. In quite a few of our boards I'm finding what I would describe as "cracked" or "crumbling" capacitors. In the cases of the bad ones, they seem to be extremely brittle and fall apart at a light touch like a stale piece of bread. The good ones can take a pounding more or less.The part is a Xicon 0805 0.01 uF cap:http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/140-CC501B103K-RC/?qs=6ARB0lp6jlXWqZF4lhG52w%3D%3DThis is some pretty serious shit as we use this capacitor in 90% of what we build and it could shut down our entire production. Does anybody have any opinions on Xicon? Engineering seems to have specified of a Kemet or Murata part, but you know how that goes. I haven't heard anything bad about Xicon. Has anyone had any similar experiences? This doesn't seem like the typical kind of board-flex issue because of the way the fall apart.

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:02:14 pm
content: So I've built a few things, but I've run out of ideas for things I actually need. Can anyone think of something challenging yet not too hard for me? As an indicator of my experience (not much) my larger projects (all finished) are below:-LM3886 amp-Bench PSU-2 way crossover/preamp-Autoranging ohm meter (schematic attached for reference as it's the most complex thing I've built so far)-VFD tube clock using Arduino (included my first step up reg, 5-30V)I realise asking this question is a bit like asking how long a piece of string is, but based on what I've built so far, what's something that would be a good next step?I can't think of anything I actually need right now, but I wouldn't mind just building something for the sake of it. Also something with digital might be a good idea (I don't think the Arduino clock really counts, it was really simple).Any thoughts?P.S. I keep getting 'database error', sometimes when I try to post something and other times it comes up and I can't see the forum at all.

author: katzohki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:02:30 pm
content: I'm finding some pretty disturbing stuff lately and I was wondering if anyone has any recent or similar experiences. In quite a few of our boards I'm finding what I would describe as "cracked" or "crumbling" capacitors. In the cases of the bad ones, they seem to be extremely brittle and fall apart at a light touch like a stale piece of bread. The good ones can take a pounding more or less.The part is a Xicon 0805 0.01 uF cap:http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/140-CC501B103K-RC/?qs=6ARB0lp6jlXWqZF4lhG52w%3D%3DThis is some pretty serious shit as we use this capacitor in 90% of what we build and it could shut down our entire production. Does anybody have any opinions on Xicon? Engineering seems to have specified of a Kemet or Murata part, but you know how that goes. I haven't heard anything bad about Xicon. Has anyone had any similar experiences? This doesn't seem like the typical kind of board-flex issue because of the way the fall apart.

author: nathancrum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:03:18 pm
content: I have an odd uCurrent reading anomaly I'm very curious if anyone can figure out.I recently bought a uCurrent for work and was measuring the current draw of an Analog Devices ADXL362 accelerometer. In the sleep/wakeup mode I was getting an expected ~250nA draw. Active mode, the nA range is maxed so I switch to uA and I get -116uA??First I thought maybe I had it connected backwards? Double check connections - nope - connections are right.Then maybe battery is dying? 2.9V - nope. Changed out a fresh 3.0V CR2032 anyway. No difference.If I measure with the DMM directly - I get ~5uA (expected draw).If I measure voltage on the current terminals of the uCurrent I get 0.04mV on 10ohm (uA range) and 48.35mV on 10kohm (nA range). Those both agree with ~5uA current draw just fine.So I thought maybe my uCurrent was busted. So I measured current on a 100k resistor with a variable DC supply from 0.1 to 1.0V and nope - all measurements are perfectly fine. I got 1.0 to 10uA no problems.I put it back on the ADXL362 and I get -100uA again.If anyone can think of a reason for why I get such bizarre readings using the uCurrent and the ADXL I'd love to hear it. The uCurrent appears ok, but something very strange is happening when connected to the ADXL and I have no idea why.

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:10:48 pm
content: So I've built a few things, but I've run out of ideas for things I actually need. Can anyone think of something challenging yet not too hard for me? As an indicator of my experience (not much) my larger projects (all finished) are below:-LM3886 amp-Bench PSU-2 way crossover/preamp-Autoranging ohm meter (schematic attached for reference as it's the most complex thing I've built so far)-VFD tube clock using Arduino (included my first step up reg, 5-30V)I realise asking this question is a bit like asking how long a piece of string is, but based on what I've built so far, what's something that would be a good next step?I can't think of anything I actually need right now, but I wouldn't mind just building something for the sake of it (as I want to learn). Also something to start me off with digital might be a good idea (I don't think the Arduino clock really counts, it was really simple).Any thoughts?

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:27:27 pm
content: What manufacturers should I stay away from when ordering from Digikey, Mouser, Arrow, or any other big house distributor?I know that ordering on eBay is a big NoNo from experience when purchasing electronic components.Take resistors and capacitors for example. Arrow has Samsung Resistors and Capacitors far cheaper then the other manufacturers, but how good are Samsung Chips?So, list a bad manufacturer of IC Chips, or passive components and list your opinion as to why it is better to spend a few pennies more to purchase from that 'other' manufacturer.

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:27:50 pm
content: So I've built a few things, but I've run out of ideas for things I actually need. Can anyone think of something challenging yet not too hard for me? As an indicator of my experience (not much) my larger projects (all finished) are below:-LM3886 amp-Bench PSU-2 way crossover/preamp-Autoranging ohm meter (schematic attached for reference as it's the most complex thing I've built so far)-VFD tube clock using Arduino (included my first step up reg, 5-30V)I realise asking this question is a bit like asking how long a piece of string is, but based on what I've built so far, what's something that would be a good next step?I can't think of anything I actually need right now, but I wouldn't mind just building something for the sake of it (as I want to learn). Also something to start me off with digital might be a good idea (I don't think the Arduino clock really counts, it was really simple).Any thoughts?

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:29:08 pm
content: What manufacturers should I stay away from when ordering from Digikey, Mouser, Arrow, or any other big house distributor?I know that ordering on eBay is a big NoNo from experience when purchasing electronic components.Take resistors and capacitors for example. Arrow has Samsung Resistors and Capacitors far cheaper then the other manufacturers, but how good are Samsung Chips?So, list a bad manufacturer of IC Chips, or passive components and list your opinion as to why it is better to spend a few pennies more to purchase from that 'other' manufacturer.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:29:35 pm
content: What manufacturers should I stay away from when ordering from Digikey, Mouser, Arrow, or any other big house distributor?I know that ordering on eBay is a big NoNo from experience when purchasing electronic components.Take resistors and capacitors for example. Arrow has Samsung Resistors and Capacitors far cheaper then the other manufacturers, but how good are Samsung Chips?So, list a bad manufacturer of IC Chips, or passive components and list your opinion as to why it is better to spend a few pennies more to purchase from that 'other' manufacturer.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:30:05 pm
content: What manufacturers should I stay away from when ordering from Digikey, Mouser, Arrow, or any other big house distributor?I know that ordering on eBay is a big NoNo from experience when purchasing electronic components.Take resistors and capacitors for example. Arrow has Samsung Resistors and Capacitors far cheaper then the other manufacturers, but how good are Samsung Chips?So, list a bad manufacturer of IC Chips, or passive components and list your opinion as to why it is better to spend a few pennies more to purchase from that 'other' manufacturer.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:30:59 pm
content: What manufacturers should I stay away from when ordering from Digikey, Mouser, Arrow, or any other big house distributor?I know that ordering on eBay is a big NoNo from experience when purchasing electronic components.Take resistors and capacitors for example. Arrow has Samsung Resistors and Capacitors far cheaper then the other manufacturers, but how good are Samsung Chips?So, list a bad manufacturer of IC Chips, or passive components and list your opinion as to why it is better to spend a few pennies more to purchase from that 'other' manufacturer.

author: Polossatik
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:44:40 pm
content: found that for 30€here -( DE store ), so got 2 one for the girlfriend and one for opening upbut can't find much info about it,would be nice to be able to display stuff on it trough usb or so4.3''active Matrix E-Paper Display Module (OPM043A2),800x600, 232ppisupposedly made by "Digital Ink"only found:http://www.oedtech.com/product/content.aspx?menuid=02020101Main CPU/SoC: F1 E200 B6077BA 26P1 (Allwinner Technology F1 E200)http://linux-sunxi.org/E200http://www.allwinnertech.com/%7Btypedir/%7D/F1E200.htmlRAM: Samsung K4H511638J (512MBit / 64MByte DDR SDRAM)http://www.mt-system.ru/sites/default/files/docs/samsung/k4h51xx38j_rev111.pdfNAND flash: Samsung K9GAG08U0E (16GBit / 2GByte, x8, 3.3V)Battery management: KrossPower AXP199 A5004AB 36GRTC/clock/calender chip (I2C): HYW8563S1000Mah Lipo , micro Sd slot, micro usb port , no wifisimilar (besides e-ink) to TrekStor eBook Reader 3.0 ? Prestigio Nobile PER3172Bhttp://www.hermann-uwe.de/taxonomy/term/2388seams to run a custom os called " Melis 2.0 "

author: Polossatik
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:47:37 pm
content: 4.3" e-ink trekstor Pyrus mini, anyone info on how to "abuse" it ?found that for 30€here -( DE store ), so got 2 one for the girlfriend and one for opening upbut can't find much info about it,would be nice to be able to display stuff on it trough usb or so4.3''active Matrix E-Paper Display Module (OPM043A2),800x600, 232ppisupposedly made by "Digital Ink"only found:http://www.oedtech.com/product/content.aspx?menuid=02020101Main CPU/SoC: F1 E200 B6077BA 26P1 (Allwinner Technology F1 E200)http://linux-sunxi.org/E200http://www.allwinnertech.com/%7Btypedir/%7D/F1E200.htmlRAM: Samsung K4H511638J (512MBit / 64MByte DDR SDRAM)http://www.mt-system.ru/sites/default/files/docs/samsung/k4h51xx38j_rev111.pdfNAND flash: Samsung K9GAG08U0E (16GBit / 2GByte, x8, 3.3V)Battery management: KrossPower AXP199 A5004AB 36GRTC/clock/calender chip (I2C): HYW8563S1000Mah Lipo , micro Sd slot, micro usb port , no wifisimilar (besides e-ink) to TrekStor eBook Reader 3.0 ? Prestigio Nobile PER3172Bhttp://www.hermann-uwe.de/taxonomy/term/2388seams to run a custom os called " Melis 2.0 "some pics of the inside (nothing special)here

author: Polossatik
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:48:32 pm
content: 4.3" e-ink trekstor Pyrus mini, anyone info on how to "abuse" it ?found that for 30€here -( DE store ), so got 2 one for the girlfriend and one for opening upbut can't find much info about it,would be nice to be able to display stuff on it trough usb or so4.3''active Matrix E-Paper Display Module (OPM043A2),800x600, 232ppisupposedly made by "Digital Ink"only found:http://www.oedtech.com/product/content.aspx?menuid=02020101Main CPU/SoC: F1 E200 B6077BA 26P1 (Allwinner Technology F1 E200)http://linux-sunxi.org/E200http://www.allwinnertech.com/%7Btypedir/%7D/F1E200.htmlRAM: Samsung K4H511638J (512MBit / 64MByte DDR SDRAM)http://www.mt-system.ru/sites/default/files/docs/samsung/k4h51xx38j_rev111.pdfNAND flash: Samsung K9GAG08U0E (16GBit / 2GByte, x8, 3.3V)Battery management: KrossPower AXP199 A5004AB 36GRTC/clock/calender chip (I2C): HYW8563S1000Mah Lipo , micro Sd slot, micro usb port , no wifisimilar (besides e-ink) to TrekStor eBook Reader 3.0 ? Prestigio Nobile PER3172Bhttp://www.hermann-uwe.de/taxonomy/term/2388seams to run a custom os called " Melis 2.0 "some pics of the inside (nothing special)here

author: Polossatik
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:49:47 pm
content: 4.3" e-ink trekstor Pyrus mini, anyone info on how to "abuse" it ?found that for 30€here -( DE store ), so got 2 one for the girlfriend and one for opening upbut can't find much info about it,would be nice to be able to display stuff on it trough usb or so4.3''active Matrix E-Paper Display Module (OPM043A2),800x600, 232ppisupposedly made by "Digital Ink"only found:http://www.oedtech.com/product/content.aspx?menuid=02020101Main CPU/SoC: F1 E200 B6077BA 26P1 (Allwinner Technology F1 E200)http://linux-sunxi.org/E200http://www.allwinnertech.com/%7Btypedir/%7D/F1E200.htmlRAM: Samsung K4H511638J (512MBit / 64MByte DDR SDRAM)http://www.mt-system.ru/sites/default/files/docs/samsung/k4h51xx38j_rev111.pdfNAND flash: Samsung K9GAG08U0E (16GBit / 2GByte, x8, 3.3V)Battery management: KrossPower AXP199 A5004AB 36GRTC/clock/calender chip (I2C): HYW8563S1000Mah Lipo , micro Sd slot, micro usb port , no wifisimilar (besides e-ink) to TrekStor eBook Reader 3.0 ? Prestigio Nobile PER3172Bhttp://www.hermann-uwe.de/taxonomy/term/2388seams to run a custom os called " Melis 2.0 "some pics of the inside (nothing special)here

author: Polossatik
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:50:13 pm
content: 4.3" e-ink trekstor Pyrus mini, anyone info on how to "abuse" it ?found that for 30€here -( DE store ), so got 2 one for the girlfriend and one for opening upbut can't find much info about it,would be nice to be able to display stuff on it trough usb or so4.3''active Matrix E-Paper Display Module (OPM043A2),800x600, 232ppisupposedly made by "Digital Ink"only found:http://www.oedtech.com/product/content.aspx?menuid=02020101Main CPU/SoC: F1 E200 B6077BA 26P1 (Allwinner Technology F1 E200)http://linux-sunxi.org/E200http://www.allwinnertech.com/%7Btypedir/%7D/F1E200.htmlRAM: Samsung K4H511638J (512MBit / 64MByte DDR SDRAM)http://www.mt-system.ru/sites/default/files/docs/samsung/k4h51xx38j_rev111.pdfNAND flash: Samsung K9GAG08U0E (16GBit / 2GByte, x8, 3.3V)Battery management: KrossPower AXP199 A5004AB 36GRTC/clock/calender chip (I2C): HYW8563S1000Mah Lipo , micro Sd slot, micro usb port , no wifisimilar (besides e-ink) to TrekStor eBook Reader 3.0 ? Prestigio Nobile PER3172Bhttp://www.hermann-uwe.de/taxonomy/term/2388seams to run a custom os called " Melis 2.0 "some pics of the inside (nothing special)here

author: Polossatik
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:51:02 pm
content: 4.3" e-ink trekstor Pyrus mini, anyone info on how to "abuse" it ?found that for 30€here -( DE store ), so got 2 one for the girlfriend and one for opening upbut can't find much info about it,would be nice to be able to display stuff on it trough usb or so4.3''active Matrix E-Paper Display Module (OPM043A2),800x600, 232ppisupposedly made by "Digital Ink"only found:http://www.oedtech.com/product/content.aspx?menuid=02020101Main CPU/SoC: F1 E200 B6077BA 26P1 (Allwinner Technology F1 E200)http://linux-sunxi.org/E200http://www.allwinnertech.com/%7Btypedir/%7D/F1E200.htmlRAM: Samsung K4H511638J (512MBit / 64MByte DDR SDRAM)http://www.mt-system.ru/sites/default/files/docs/samsung/k4h51xx38j_rev111.pdfNAND flash: Samsung K9GAG08U0E (16GBit / 2GByte, x8, 3.3V)Battery management: KrossPower AXP199 A5004AB 36GRTC/clock/calender chip (I2C): HYW8563S1000Mah Lipo , micro Sd slot, micro usb port , no wifisimilar (besides e-ink) to TrekStor eBook Reader 3.0 ? Prestigio Nobile PER3172Bhttp://www.hermann-uwe.de/taxonomy/term/2388seams to run a custom os called " Melis 2.0 "some pics of the inside (nothing special)here

author: Polossatik
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:51:44 pm
content: 4.3" e-ink trekstor Pyrus mini, anyone info on how to "abuse" it ?found that for 30€here -( DE store ), so got 2 one for the girlfriend and one for opening upbut can't find much info about it,would be nice to be able to display stuff on it trough usb or so4.3''active Matrix E-Paper Display Module (OPM043A2),800x600, 232ppisupposedly made by "Digital Ink"only found:http://www.oedtech.com/product/content.aspx?menuid=02020101Main CPU/SoC: F1 E200 B6077BA 26P1 (Allwinner Technology F1 E200)http://linux-sunxi.org/E200http://www.allwinnertech.com/%7Btypedir/%7D/F1E200.htmlRAM: Samsung K4H511638J (512MBit / 64MByte DDR SDRAM)http://www.mt-system.ru/sites/default/files/docs/samsung/k4h51xx38j_rev111.pdfNAND flash: Samsung K9GAG08U0E (16GBit / 2GByte, x8, 3.3V)Battery management: KrossPower AXP199 A5004AB 36GRTC/clock/calender chip (I2C): HYW8563S1000Mah Lipo , micro Sd slot, micro usb port , no wifisimilar (besides e-ink) to TrekStor eBook Reader 3.0 ? Prestigio Nobile PER3172Bhttp://www.hermann-uwe.de/taxonomy/term/2388seams to run a custom os called " Melis 2.0 "some pics of the inside (nothing special)here

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:56:43 pm
content: What manufacturers should I stay away from when ordering from Digikey, Mouser, Arrow, or any other big house distributor?I know that ordering on eBay is a big NoNo from experience when purchasing electronic components.Take resistors and capacitors for example. Arrow has Samsung Resistors and Capacitors far cheaper then the other manufacturers, but how good are Samsung Chips?So, list a bad manufacturer of IC Chips, or passive components and list your opinion as to why it is better to spend a few pennies more to purchase from that 'other' manufacturer.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 07:59:48 pm
content: What manufacturers should I stay away from when ordering from Digikey, Mouser, Arrow, or any other big house distributor?I know that ordering on eBay is a big NoNo from experience when purchasing electronic components.Take resistors and capacitors for example. Arrow has Samsung Resistors and Capacitors far cheaper then the other manufacturers, but how good are Samsung Chips?So, list a bad manufacturer of IC Chips, or passive components and list your opinion as to why it is better to spend a few pennies more to purchase from that 'other' manufacturer.

author: matt09
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:04:28 pm
content: The is the model up of the 6047 featured in Dave's blog, a truly amazing piece of kit at 0.5ppm.Last calibrated and PAT tested by Agilent in 2011 with cal stickers intact on every panel.Fully working and tested, my company decided they didn't have use for this anymore. They may however not be best pleased in the unlikely event of them seeing me sell it on which is why i have very carefully scratched away their internal cal sticker logo placed over the Agilent ones while leaving the Agilent's intact.The unit is in almost perfect cosmetic condition apart from a bit of a cal sticker mess on the back panel. Here I removed a company logo which was directly over the Cal / Meas switch.Don't worry it's not stolen, I just don't want to get into trouble because this is worth a serious amount of money!As much as I feel I should keep this I have access to a range of modern equiptment at work.8 ½-digit multimeter with measurement functions (Vdc, Vac, Idc, Iac, R, T)0.5 ppm 24-hour stability, 5 year-ppm error limitslarge display range up to 1,999 999 99Measurement times of 20 ms to 80 sRemote control and data output via IEEE488 interfacemax. 10 nV resolution, 10 uohm, 0.01 ° CFull specs here:http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://ohh.de/6048.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dprema%2B6048%26biw%3D1439%26bih%3D966Looking for £1000 shipped to UK or a little extra if internationally shipped.

author: TVHeadedRobots
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:10:00 pm
content: Hi,I'm curious to get some input on a circuit I'm working on. I've attached a schematic below. Basically I have an application that requires me to use a current transformer to sense whether a brushed motor is running. To do this I've used a bridge rectifier to rectify the signal I then do some signal conditioning and run that into a comparator (the application requires the weird solution.) Simple enough, but here is the question. I've tested the bridge rectified using 4 SS24 diodes and it seems to work fine. I used the SS24s because they were in my BOM but they have since been eliminated (replaced with double diodes.) I was thinking about replacing the 4 SS24s with a bridge rectifier like the DF005S-E3/45 (http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/427/dfs-240405.pdf). Looking at the datasheet I can't really determine how this is going to work with all of the high frequency content present in my signal when they are really designed to work at 50 / 60 Hz. Maybe this is a dumb question and it doesn't really matter. I also have some parts on the way to test, but I was curious to get some input on this as well. Thanks for the help.Skip

author: TVHeadedRobots
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:12:16 pm
content: Hi,I'm curious to get some input on a circuit I'm working on. I've tried to attach a schematic, but I kept getting an error when submitting, but I'll try to get it in the post. Basically I have an application that requires me to use a current transformer to sense whether a brushed motor is running. To do this I've used a bridge rectifier to rectify the signal I then do some signal conditioning and run that into a comparator (the application requires the weird solution.) Simple enough, but here is the question. I've tested the bridge rectified using 4 SS24 diodes and it seems to work fine. I used the SS24s because they were in my BOM but they have since been eliminated (replaced with double diodes.) I was thinking about replacing the 4 SS24s with a bridge rectifier like the DF005S-E3/45 (http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/427/dfs-240405.pdf). Looking at the datasheet I can't really determine how this is going to work with all of the high frequency content present in my signal when they are really designed to work at 50 / 60 Hz. Maybe this is a dumb question and it doesn't really matter. I also have some parts on the way to test, but I was curious to get some input on this as well. Thanks for the help.Skip

author: maelli
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:15:58 pm
content: I do have ADAM in my lab!Adam stands for Analog Data Acquisition Memory.It is a 22kg beast with a with a tiny green 5.5 inch monitor.Datecode on the ICs, it is from 1989 or 1990.I have fond memories on these things.As a young engineer I used to work with them, back then they werevery powerful machines, even though extremely expensive.They could see what happened before the trigger!Try to do this with your analog storage Tektronix Scope ;-)And they have a massive amount of memory 64K samples per channel. Crazy!And the memory could be segmented, from 256x256 to all 64k in one shot.All inputs are differential, back then we used them with TEK 6015 1:1000 probes.Sample rate is incredible 20 Megasamples per second.Mine is 4 Channels, however, 12 Channel versions also existed.Every channel comes with 6 extra digital signal inputs, so 24 digital channelsin mine.Should I open it up and see what is inside?

author: Polossatik
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:16:26 pm
content: 4.3" e-ink trekstor Pyrus mini, anyone info on how to "abuse" it ?I found that little e-reader for 30€here -( DE store ), so got 2 one for the girlfriend and one for opening upbut can't find much info about it,would be nice to be able to display stuff on it trough usb or sospecs:4.3''active Matrix E-Paper Display Module (OPM043A2),800x600, 232ppisupposedly made by "Digital Ink"only found:http://www.oedtech.com/product/content.aspx?menuid=02020101Main CPU/SoC: F1 E200 B6077BA 26P1 (Allwinner Technology F1 E200)http://linux-sunxi.org/E200http://www.allwinnertech.com/%7Btypedir/%7D/F1E200.htmlRAM: Samsung K4H511638J (512MBit / 64MByte DDR SDRAM)http://www.mt-system.ru/sites/default/files/docs/samsung/k4h51xx38j_rev111.pdfNAND flash: Samsung K9GAG08U0E (16GBit / 2GByte, x8, 3.3V)Battery management: KrossPower AXP199 A5004AB 36GRTC/clock/calender chip (I2C): HYW8563S1000Mah Lipo , micro Sd slot, micro usb port , no wifisimilar (besides e-ink and smaller) to TrekStor eBook Reader 3.0 ? Prestigio Nobile PER3172Bhttp://www.hermann-uwe.de/taxonomy/term/2388seams to run a custom os called " Melis 2.0 "some pics of the inside (nothing special)here

author: Polossatik
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:18:54 pm
content: 4.3" e-ink trekstor Pyrus mini, anyone info on how to "abuse" it ?I found that little e-reader for 30€here -( DE store ), so got 2 one for the girlfriend and one for opening upbut can't find much info about it,would be nice to be able to display stuff on it trough usb or sospecs:4.3''active Matrix E-Paper Display Module (OPM043A2),800x600, 232ppisupposedly made by "Digital Ink"only found:http://www.oedtech.com/product/content.aspx?menuid=02020101Main CPU/SoC: F1 E200 B6077BA 26P1 (Allwinner Technology F1 E200)http://linux-sunxi.org/E200http://www.allwinnertech.com/%7Btypedir/%7D/F1E200.htmlRAM: Samsung K4H511638J (512MBit / 64MByte DDR SDRAM)http://www.mt-system.ru/sites/default/files/docs/samsung/k4h51xx38j_rev111.pdfNAND flash: Samsung K9GAG08U0E (16GBit / 2GByte, x8, 3.3V)Battery management: KrossPower AXP199 A5004AB 36GRTC/clock/calender chip (I2C): HYW8563S1000Mah Lipo , micro Sd slot, micro usb port , no wifisimilar (besides e-ink and smaller) to TrekStor eBook Reader 3.0 ? Prestigio Nobile PER3172Bhttp://www.hermann-uwe.de/taxonomy/term/2388seams to run a custom os called " Melis 2.0 "some pics of the inside (nothing special)here

author: maelli
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:19:48 pm
content: I do have ADAM in my lab!Adam stands for Analog Data Acquisition Memory.It is a 22kg beast with a with a tiny green 5.5 inch monitor.Datecode on the ICs, it is from 1989 or 1990.I have fond memories on these things.As a young engineer I used to work with them, back then they werevery powerful machines, even though extremely expensive.They could see what happened before the trigger!Try to do this with your analog storage Tektronix Scope ;-)And they have a massive amount of memory 64K samples per channel. Crazy!And the memory could be segmented, from 256x256 to all 64k in one shot.All inputs are differential, back then we used them with TEK 6015 1:1000 probes.Sample rate is incredible 20 Megasamples per second.Mine is 4 Channels, however, 12 Channel versions also existed.Every channel comes with 6 extra digital signal inputs, so 24 digital channelsin mine.Should I open it up and see what is inside?

author: matt09
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:21:18 pm
content: The is the model up of the 6047 featured in Dave's blog, a truly amazing piece of kit at 0.5ppm.Last calibrated and PAT tested by Agilent in 2011 with cal stickers intact on every panel.Fully working and tested, my company decided they didn't have use for this anymore. They may however not be best pleased in the unlikely event of them seeing me sell it on which is why i have very carefully scratched away their internal cal sticker logo placed over the Agilent ones while leaving the Agilent's intact.The unit is in almost perfect cosmetic condition apart from a bit of a cal sticker mess on the back panel. Here I removed a company logo which was directly over the Cal / Meas switch.Don't worry it's not stolen, I just don't want to get into trouble because this is worth a serious amount of money!As much as I feel I should keep this I have access to a range of modern equiptment at work.8 ½-digit multimeter with measurement functions (Vdc, Vac, Idc, Iac, R, T)0.5 ppm 24-hour stability, 5 year-ppm error limitslarge display range up to 1,999 999 99Measurement times of 20 ms to 80 sRemote control and data output via IEEE488 interfacemax. 10 nV resolution, 10 uohm, 0.01 ° CFull specs here:http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://ohh.de/6048.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dprema%2B6048%26biw%3D1439%26bih%3D966Looking for £1000 shipped to UK or a little extra if internationally shipped.Full specs here:http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://ohh.de/6048.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dprema%2B6048%26biw%3D1439%26bih%3D966Looking for £1000 shipped to UK or a little extra if internationally shipped.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:36:29 pm
content: test

author: George_Race
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:37:06 pm
content: Does anyone here have any experience with the HP 3336 series of sweep oscillators?When turned on it flashes 10 000.0 for a very short time, then the displays shows "OSC. FAIL"I have been all through it and everything seems to be working, as far as I can tell.It has the Optional 10 MHz high stability xtal oscillator, option 05, as well the the Attenuator Option 04.I do have the 10 MHz jumper on the back to the external standard input. The 1 MHz output is working, and the 30 MHz xtal oscillator is running just fine too.There is not any output from the output amp board. I expect that the attenuator is at max, when turned on so it may be prohibiting seeing any output signals.None of the buttons on the panel make any change to the LED readout panel. The LED's in the buttons come on when pressed, and the status window shows that the EXT time base is connected.I do have the full service manual, and have done a pretty complete run through looking at the various signals.There are no waveforms anywhere in the service information, and no troubleshooting information that I can find anywhere. I have looked at a lot of the calibration test points and can adjust all the various parameters given. So, it looks like everything is working in the background.After about 10 hours of probing, it is time to ask for some help.George

author: George_Race
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:39:16 pm
content: Does anyone here have any experience with the HP 3336 series of sweep oscillators?When turned on it flashes 10 000.0 for a very short time, then the displays shows "OSC. FAIL"I have been all through it and everything seems to be working, as far as I can tell.It has the Optional 10 MHz high stability xtal oscillator, option 05, as well the the Attenuator Option 04.I do have the 10 MHz jumper on the back to the external standard input. The 1 MHz output is working, and the 30 MHz xtal oscillator is running just fine too.There is not any output from the output amp board. I expect that the attenuator is at max, when turned on so it may be prohibiting seeing any output signals.None of the buttons on the panel make any change to the LED readout panel. The LED's in the buttons come on when pressed, and the status window shows that the EXT time base is connected.I do have the full service manual, and have done a pretty complete run through looking at the various signals.There are no waveforms anywhere in the service information, and no troubleshooting information that I can find anywhere. I have looked at a lot of the calibration test points and can adjust all the various parameters given. So, it looks like everything is working in the background.After about 10 hours of probing, it is time to ask for some help.George

author: George_Race
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 08:41:09 pm
content: Does anyone here have any experience with the HP 3336 series of sweep oscillators?When turned on it flashes 10 000.0 for a very short time, then the displays shows "OSC. FAIL"I have been all through it and everything seems to be working, as far as I can tell.It has the Optional 10 MHz high stability xtal oscillator, option 05, as well the the Attenuator Option 04.I do have the 10 MHz jumper on the back to the external standard input. The 1 MHz output is working, and the 30 MHz xtal oscillator is running just fine too.There is not any output from the output amp board. I expect that the attenuator is at max, when turned on so it may be prohibiting seeing any output signals.None of the buttons on the panel make any change to the LED readout panel. The LED's in the buttons come on when pressed, and the status window shows that the EXT time base is connected.I do have the full service manual, and have done a pretty complete run through looking at the various signals.There are no waveforms anywhere in the service information, and no troubleshooting information that I can find anywhere. I have looked at a lot of the calibration test points and can adjust all the various parameters given. So, it looks like everything is working in the background.After about 10 hours of probing, it is time to ask for some help.George

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 09:23:09 pm
content: Donated electrolytic capacitors: keep or bin?A local HackSpace has been bequested a large number of unused polarised electrolytic capacitors. My instinct is to bin them, but I wonder if I'm being unnecesarily pessimistic. Perhaps we should keep some and give spares to neighbouring HackSpaces - but I wouldn't want to knowingly give junk or waste our time debugging old capacitors!Characteristics:mostly aluminium cans, with a few tantalum beadsage unknown, but mostly "modern looking"storage conditions unknown, but no visible problems - in many small plastic bags in a big cardboard boxrange based on a cursory check: 10uF-2000uF, 6V-60V, ishmany are in ziplock bags from well-known big distributors that are still in existence!a range of manufacturers, e.g. Rubycon, Philips, Dubilier, Ricon, Waycombriefly testing a few shows they have in-spec valuesWhat are the likely failure modes, e.g. how would "drying out" manifest itself? Instant failure or failure after normal in-service lifetime?So, keep, bin, or more tests? If more tests, then what simple quick easy tests could be done? I'm not going to spend much of my remaining life inspecting them, but I'll do a quick sanity check.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 09:24:16 pm
content: A local HackSpace has been bequested a large number of unused polarised electrolytic capacitors. My instinct is to bin them, but I wonder if I'm being unnecesarily pessimistic. Perhaps we should keep some and give spares to neighbouring HackSpaces - but I wouldn't want to knowingly give junk or waste our time debugging old capacitors!Characteristics:mostly aluminium cans, with a few tantalum beadsage unknown, but mostly "modern looking"storage conditions unknown, but no visible problems - in many small plastic bags in a big cardboard boxrange based on a cursory check: 10uF-2000uF, 6V-60V, ishmany are in ziplock bags from well-known big distributors that are still in existence!a range of manufacturers, e.g. Rubycon, Philips, Dubilier, Ricon, Waycombriefly testing a few shows they have in-spec valuesWhat are the likely failure modes, e.g. how would "drying out" manifest itself? Instant failure or failure after normal in-service lifetime?So, keep, bin, or more tests? If more tests, then what simple quick easy tests could be done? I'm not going to spend much of my remaining life inspecting them, but I'll do a quick sanity check.

author: caius
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 09:39:45 pm
content: Hi all, I'm looking for some spare blank HD63701 MCU (40 pin DIP package).Sadly I have bought five of them from a chinese Ebay seller and it ended up they were already programmed though they were listed as new/unused.Thanks in advance.P.S.HD637B01V0C is the ceramic windowed erasable version while HD637B01V0P is the plastic on-time programmable one.Both should go well for my purpose.

author: caius
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 09:41:33 pm
content: Hi all, I'm looking for some spare blank HD63701 MCU (40 pin DIP package).Sadly I have bought five of them from a chinese Ebay seller and it ended up they were already programmed though they were listed as new/unused.Thanks in advance.P.S.HD637B01V0C is the ceramic windowed erasable version while HD637B01V0P is the plastic on-time programmable one.Both should go well for my purpose.

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 09:44:18 pm
content: I am looking for single Li-Ion cells without any case or circuitry attached.They are for a school project, so we just need like 5-10 pieces for a few prototypes.If anyone knows a supplier please tell me. I checked all the usual electronic suppliers like Farnell, DigiKey, Mouser, etc. and also searched on Ebay without much success.My backup plan is to use Li-Po batteries for RC models, but they are larger because they are built for much more output power than I need and size is important in this case.

author: maelli
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 09:45:21 pm
content: I do have ADAM in my lab!Adam stands for Analog Data Acquisition Memory.It is a 22kg beast with a with a tiny green 5.5 inch monitor.Datecode on the ICs, it is from 1989 or 1990.I have fond memories on these things.As a young engineer I used to work with them, back then they werevery powerful machines, even though extremely expensive.They could see what happened before the trigger!So much better than the analog storage scope of the time.The amount of memory was massive, 64K samples per channel. Crazy!And the memory could be segmented, from 256x256 to all 64k in one shot.All inputs are differential, back then we used them with TEK 6015 1:1000 probes.Sample rate is 20 Megasamples per second.Mine is 4 Channels, however, 12 Channel versions also existed.Every channel comes with 6 extra digital signal inputs, so 24 digital channelsin mine.not many were built, the company does not exist any longerShould I open it up and see what is inside?

author: maelli
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 09:49:23 pm
content: I do have ADAM in my lab!Adam stands for Analog Data Acquisition Memory.It is a 22kg beast with a with a tiny green 5.5 inch monitor.Datecode on the ICs, it is from 1989 or 1990.I have fond memories on these things.As a young engineer I used to work with them, back then they werevery powerful machines, even though extremely expensive.They could see what happened before the trigger!So much better than the analog storage scope of the time.The amount of memory was massive, 64K samples per channel. Crazy!And the memory could be segmented, from 256x256 to all 64k in one shot.All inputs are differential, back then we used them with TEK 6015 1:1000 probes.Sample rate is 20 Megasamples per second.Mine is 4 Channels, however, 12 Channel versions also existed.Every channel comes with 6 extra digital signal inputs, so 24 digital channelsin mine.not many were built, the company does not exist any longerShould I open it up and see what is inside?

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 09:50:03 pm
content: I can not post a new topic, at least in Projects and/or until a few minutes ago in case it does work now.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 10:00:25 pm
content: Just a test

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 10:01:01 pm
content: I am looking for single Li-Ion cells without any case or circuitry attached.They are for a school project, so we just need like 5-10 pieces for a few prototypes.If anyone knows a supplier please tell me. I checked all the usual electronic suppliers like Farnell, DigiKey, Mouser, etc. and also searched on Ebay without much success.My backup plan is to use Li-Po batteries for RC models, but they are larger because they are built for much more output power than I need and size is important in this case.

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 10:01:24 pm
content: I am looking for single Li-Ion cells without any case or circuitry attached.They are for a school project, so we just need like 5-10 pieces for a few prototypes.If anyone knows a supplier please tell me. I checked all the usual electronic suppliers like Farnell, DigiKey, Mouser, etc. and also searched on Ebay without much success.My backup plan is to use Li-Po batteries for RC models, but they are larger because they are built for much more output power than I need and size is important in this case.

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 10:01:46 pm
content: Test

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 10:02:07 pm
content: Test

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2014, 10:06:46 pm
content: A local HackSpace has been bequested a large number of unused polarised electrolytic capacitors. My instinct is to bin them, but I wonder if I'm being unnecesarily pessimistic. Perhaps we should keep some and give spares to neighbouring HackSpaces - but I wouldn't want to knowingly give junk or waste our time debugging old capacitors!Characteristics:mostly aluminium cans, with a few tantalum beadsage unknown, but mostly "modern looking"storage conditions unknown, but no visible problems - in many small plastic bags in a big cardboard boxrange based on a cursory check: 10uF-2000uF, 6V-60V, ishmany are in ziplock bags from well-known big distributors that are still in existence!a range of manufacturers, e.g. Rubycon, Philips, Dubilier, Ricon, Waycombriefly testing a few shows they have in-spec valuesWhat are the likely failure modes, e.g. how would "drying out" manifest itself?Instant failure or failure after normal in-service lifetime?So, keep, bin, or more tests? If more tests, then what simple quick easy tests could be done? I'm not going to spend much of my remaining life inspecting them, but I'll do a quick sanity check.