hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Rigol DP700 series DC power supply questions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2016, 12:27:22 pm
content: I'm looking to buy an entry level DC power supply and had a couple of questions regarding the DP700 series from Rigol.It says that both CV and CC modes can be used but what about current limiting?Also, when it says that it can output 5A at 30V for a total power of 150W does that mean It can also do 5V at 30A, 12V at 12.5A etc... or is that 5A the maximum for any given Voltage?I am new to power supplies and hope someone can shed some light here.Thanks!

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2016, 04:45:51 pm
content: The limits are 30 V and 5 A. An the 150 W power rating means you can get the full current even at 30 V (at least they claim it - there sometimes is some doubt on this with cheap supplies). So no more than 5 A at any voltage.Some supplies (especially switched mode ones) may allow only lower maximum current at high output voltages, but this supplies seems to be able to get the full current at any voltage.The CV/CC mode or chosen by the supply. So the user sets limits for voltage and current and the supply than works on CV mode if the current is below the limit and CC mode if the maximum current is reached and thus the voltage less than the set voltage.
Higher power power supplies - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: raptor1956
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2016, 01:40:39 am
content: I was just pointed to to this website and one of the units that is of some interest is a 0-30V supply rated at 0-10A.http://www.mpja.com/0-30VDC-10A-Variable-Benchtop-Power-Supply/productinfo/29631+PS/Now this is nobodies idea of a true precision PS, but there are many applications where precision is not so critical but having a lot of power and current is so if one can trade a bit of precision and output ripple for brute power then an item like this is useful. I'm currently working, part time, on a project involving peltier cooler modules and they eat up quite a but of power so using my Rigol DP832 is out of the question as the current required from even one peltier module easily exceeds the 3A limit of the 832. I have another PS that I have been using for testing, a Tekpower TP3005T model that is no where near the 832 in precision or ripple but that's not a problem when driving a peltier module as best I can tell.So, what say ye about these lesser name brand PS's of higher power. For the unit I linked to put out 30V at 10A or 300VA in a package this small it has to be a SMPS of some variant, but again, for some work that's not a problem.Brian

author: kc8apf
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2016, 04:13:54 am
content: I'm suspicious of the supply you linked actually meeting its 30V@10A spec. When I've needed power supplies, I've always found plenty of old HP supplies on eBay at reasonable prices. A 6023A is 20V@30A and often sells on eBay for ~$300 with the occasional deal. An old 6286A would get you 20V@10A for ~$150.

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2016, 05:05:27 am
content: Personally I like eBay for beefier stuff. If you're patient enough you can score something pretty nice for not much scratch. Sometimes it's a gamble though. I picked up a Sorensen 60V 18A supply this way for peanuts. It was being sold as a "no output" parts/repair unit but I noticed that the jumpers on the back of the unit were configured for remote use. Took a chance and made a low offer that got accepted and when it arrived I reconfigured the jumpers and started using it!

author: ivaylo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2016, 05:16:58 am
content: Yup, eBay for this kind of stuff... Got a Kepco 20V, 20A for kinda cheap this way...
Hexadecimal Calculator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: whalphen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2016, 09:46:47 pm
content: After about 35 years of use, my TI Programmer II hexadecimal calculator stopped working. It sure was nice for doing hex math, boolean operations, and base conversions. I found an unbranded scientific calculator at the dollar store and it has hex -- and cost only $1. Unfortunately, the characters A-F are printed in dark red on a dark brown case and are nearly impossible to see. Any recommendations on a replacement?

author: kripton2035
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2016, 09:50:49 pm
content: an old HP16c but it's pricey ...if you have a smartphone, ios or android, you have a lot of hp emulators available for around $5

author: LaurentR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2016, 09:52:36 pm
content: See this recent thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/scientific-calculators/If you grab the "higher end" scientific calculators from TI or Casio (see the references in the thread), they have a hex mode.Count on ~$20.Alternative is to use a smartphone with the right app (also see thread).

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2016, 04:37:19 pm
content: HP16C...I got it so long ago I forgot exactly how long. (30+ years)The number 4 key is slightly off (not the same feel as other keys, needs firmer press) but otherwise still works like a charm. I forgot how long ago it was when I had to change battery, or if I have even had to change battery at all.I have the 16C emulator running on Zenfone2e. It works rather well but since it lacks real key-feel, I don't use that much.

author: orin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2016, 06:35:26 pm
content: SwissMicros make an almost-clone of the HP 16C.https://www.swissmicros.com/Look for the DM16L. The display isn't as nice as the HP original, but it works.

author: whalphen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2016, 11:20:34 am
content: After looking at various options, I decided to try a smartphone app, CALC-P. I like it. It has separate number keys for separate bases. So I can actually enter hex, decimal, and binary at the same time. For example, I can enter a number in hex and divide it by a number in base 10. It shows the entries and results in all three bases simultaneously. And, being free, the price was great!
Aoyue 474A+ pinout - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jkaart
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 02, 2016, 03:58:06 pm
content: Know someone here what is the correct pinout for Aoyue 474A+ handle plug?Whether it is below?1. heat resistor2. heat resistor3. switch4. ground5. switch6. thermocouple +7. thermocouple -8. N/C
Yamaha SPX900 Multi Effects Processor(1988) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Denny78
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 01, 2016, 11:56:53 pm
content: Hi Everyone,I'm a guitar player. I bought a Yamaha SPX900 from 1988 back in March of this year. I thought I would post about it here as Dave has teared down other Yamaha studio/audio gear. It is an amazing piece of equipment. These first came out in 1988. Still to this day it is in 99% working condition. The one I bought has 2 minor problems. It has a level output pot that is scratchy(which is easy solved with spraying some electrical contact spray on it). The other issue with it is the soldered in CR2032 battery for the presets in it has low power(It needs replacing).The design of this piece of equipment is amazing. It is a top quality. I am going to link a picture of the internals of it. The best thing about it is was I only paid £100 for it off Ebay. Normally they go for anywhere from £125 to £200. The sound quality of this unit is fantastic. It is as great sounding as a Lexicon PCM70 or a TC Electronic 2290.I really enjoy watching Dave's videos. I am learning alot about electronics.
Xytronic Hot Tweezers (TWZ80) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Charkel
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 30, 2016, 03:18:55 pm
content: There is a deal right now here in Sweden where I can get the Xytronic LF-1680 80W for a little under (900 SEK)Xytronic LF-1680 info:http://www.xytronic-usa.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=25(Manufacurer site)I've already seen reviews on the soldering iron/station and it seems good. But what about the tweezers model TWZ80?Picture of tweezers:https://www.reichelt.de/bilder/web/xxl_ws/D200/TWEEZER-230_01.pngThe tips look so strange compared to other brands. Hot tweezers I've seen used by people on youtube for example has the standard chisel or cone tips.Only available tips for the Xytronic are theese and they are 15-20 bux a pophttp://www.xytronic-usa.com/shop/category.aspx?catid=23Anyone know how the TWZ80 Xytronic tweezers stack up to other brands?EDIT:I noticed there are another model called TWZ120 that is no longer present on their website. But those tweezers have the normal tips.Picture:http://image.ceneo.pl/data/products/36533248/i-xytronic-twz120.jpg?=30bd2Will the TWZ80 do?
DIY Microscope ring light for Meiji EMF-1 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rbm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2016, 11:34:54 pm
content: I recently bought a very inexpensive used Meiji EMF-1 microscope for use with SMD soldering and board inspection. The microscope has a fixed 1X objective with a non-standard M45 threaded protective neutral filter. It initially came with some LED illumination but they cast too much shadow for my needs. I required a flatter lightening so I sought a LED ring light. After having no success finding an aftermarket solution that could adapt to the microscope, I came up with this solution.I have a LED angel eye lying around from purchasing an HID to use on my motorcycle (but never did get it converted over from halogen to HID). I bought a standard electrical box cover, drilled a 1-3/4" hole into the centre of the plate and used a Dremel to enlarge the hole to have a clearance fit over the threads of the protective filter. Using double-sided tape, I attached the angel eye LED ring to the electrical plate and mounted the assembly to the microscope by sandwiching the plate between the filter and microscope.The result was very good. It provides an even flat lighting that can be adjusted using a PWM dimmer. My outlay was very low cost and meets my needs.
Vacuum pump - ideas? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ralphrmartin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2016, 06:35:37 pm
content: I've inherited a small vacuum pump - a Rietschle Picolino VTE3 to be precise. Anyone have any good ideas for something to do with it?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2016, 07:29:37 pm
content: Good vacuum source for a desoldering station instead of the usual venturi system, though you will need to install a better inline filter than it comes with to keep the particulate material in the suction from condensing on the vanes and housing. Regular compressed air filter housing ( with the drain port either sealed or blocked off) and a 0.3micron filter element, will do for that.

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2016, 07:43:15 pm
content: Air conditioner gas changePick and place devicesMaking tubes and NixesIt's a very useful device,

author: ralphrmartin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2016, 05:47:47 pm
content: Thanks guys. Keep them coming - soon one will ring my bell...

author: thefamilyman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2016, 03:28:10 am
content: Swedish made penis enlarger?

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2016, 03:30:49 am
content: Quote from: ebclr on October 26, 2016, 07:43:15 pmThe requirements for these two applications are so dramatically different; it just highlights that "vacuum pump" on its own is a very vague concept.

author: Akra
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2016, 06:21:50 am
content: It is like saying you have a vehicle, it could be a truck, a prius or a Formula One car...But At the beginning he pointed out the exact type: It is a graphite rotary pump, good for medium vacuum applicationse.g. pick and place, degassing epoxy, faster/gentle drying, letting marshmallows grow etc.but not enough for tubes or other higher vacuum stuff.

author: ChristopherN
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 29, 2016, 05:34:23 pm
content: I'm using my vacuum pump to degas silicone castings. You can make nice looking (and flexible, if you want) housings. I'm using that method to cast sensor housings that see a lot of mechanical stress like drops and temperature swings.
How to properly store unused pci boards? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Messtechniker
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2016, 09:18:05 am
content: Hi,currently I have a 20 or so used PCI and PCIe boards which I would like too store properly for future use. Can anyone recommend a proper storage facility/box or something else in which to safety store these boards. I hate to have them lying around only in their antistatic bags, since they might easily suffer mechanical damage.Yours Messtechniker

author: setq
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2016, 09:21:05 am
content: Traditional method is the antistatic foam lined cardboard box. Just chuck one card in each box inside the antistatic bag.My father imported literally containers full of ISA boards from Taiwan packaged like this. Never a problem, other than getting rid of the boxes after he'd installed them in hardware.Hit ebay for them; probably cheaper than everywhere else.

author: billfernandez
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2016, 06:45:57 pm
content: I just wrap each one in household aluminum foil and stack them gently in a box.

author: Messtechniker
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2016, 06:23:58 am
content: Quote from: setq on October 13, 2016, 09:21:05 amAnd here my result in response to your answer.A pity the PCI boards do not fit in to ex. VHS boxes.Thanks for the hint.Yours MesstechnikerPS.: The hint regarding the ex. VHS boxes was also from this great forum.

author: setq
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2016, 05:37:33 pm
content: Excellent. Nice and neatly organised as well
Lif3 "Smartchip" - "Reduces smartphone radiation" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bleckers
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2016, 04:55:15 pm
content: Just saw a late night TV add for this. Seriously, people are still trying this crap?https://chooselif3.com.au/70 bucks for a sticker. Heck they can't even get the marketing images right. The components on that PCB they show would be way larger than the sticker thickness, let alone the other layers.

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2016, 01:54:06 am
content: Quote from: bleckers on July 11, 2016, 04:55:15 pmI was going to start a new thread to comment on this scam,but found yours.Of late they have been ramping up their advertising in Prime Time,with an ad starring Rebecca Gibney.I can't really blame Rebecca---work is work!
Ferrite hot snot - EMC BEGONE! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 12:44:54 pm
content: This is interesting:www.telemeter.info/cz/productattachments/index/download?id=151www.telemeter.info/cz/productattachments/index/download?id=153Hot melt EM absorbers available in various forms. You could even dip your whole device in ferrite-ish material probably. Seems cool.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 12:52:42 pm
content: Consistency from unit to unit might be an issue. RF is tricky enough stuff before you add variability of goop application

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 01:23:04 pm
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on October 24, 2016, 12:52:42 pmIn some cases you'll have to run the wiring in a specific way to meet testing requirements so I don't see a problem with applying hot-melt in a pre-defined way. Still you don't want to be on the edge of the limits.

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 06:03:30 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on October 24, 2016, 01:23:04 pmI would always want to see wiring run in a consistent manner. I have seen one unit pass EMI, and another fail due to how the wire had been routed.I notice that the second link is described as low frequency and seems to peak at 5GHz

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 09:01:36 pm
content: I used to work at a CATV/MATV company designing and building distribution components.One trick we employed in impedance matching ( adjusting return loss) of UHF amps was to use a widget capacitor embedded in window putty loaded with iron filings.Used to kill crazy resonances and stabilise the amps input and output return loss.

author: rfeecs
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 10:09:42 pm
content: Similar stuff, but a room temperature caulk:http://www.eccosorb.com/products-eccoshield-vy.htm

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2016, 07:12:02 am
content: Quote from: rfeecs on October 24, 2016, 10:09:42 pmThat stuff is conductive. The hot snot version has quite a high resistance.

author: rfeecs
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2016, 05:34:19 pm
content: Quote from: daqq on October 25, 2016, 07:12:02 amOops. I guess I didn't read it. Wrong datasheet.I knew a guy who would pour liquid eccosorb all over his board to kill oscillations. Like a ferrite loaded RTV. Not an elegant solution. The board weighed a ton. I just assumed that was the same stuff. Apparently not.Anyway, here's some ferrite loaded stuff from a different company:http://masttechnologies.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/MC10-0018-00.pdf
Stetzerizer Filter  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Finn-TV
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 23, 2016, 08:16:21 am
content: Hi. There are two topics about Stetzerizer Filter in this blog. It looks that nobody has torn it down to see what's inside the box. I wonder if the filter has been molded to protect if from moisture or something like enthusiastic EEVblogger. I'd like to see what kind of components they have used. Here in Europe we have 230V 50Hz AC and the regulations require X2 type capacitors.I am reading about Electromagnetic hypersensitivity because I have many of the symptoms they merge to this. And yes, I am sceptic! I'm also long term electronic professional and Ham since 1966.They tell that you should have 20 filters in your apartment in the States. But only 15 in Europe (999 euro/15pcs set and 75 euro/pc) as they are 1.5 times stronger. This sound funny to me as if there are (and there should be) capacitors inside, they must have twice the Voltage withstanding than in the US. If they use the same capacitors, as I believe, by putting two in series, the capacitance is only half of the original. This doesn't sound right to me.Has anybody torn these Sterti.. Stret.. Szetz.. Stet-ze-ri-zer down to see what's inside?
ZD-915 Desolder gun/station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Gosub
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2014, 07:54:50 pm
content: Hi guys,Just thought I'd share a pretty awesome buy I found on fleabay. It's a ZD-915 as the subject states.I'm new to all this but I am amazed at this little beauty that's been well built down, down, down to a price, £75 and that includes post.This thing will suck your face off. I modded it to get bunch of extra suction and fitted a quieter fan.I'm in Sinclair Spectrum fixing heaven at the moment.It's been rebadged as a Duratool no name and the guy selling them is a sweet guy to deal with.Take care guys

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 17, 2014, 08:18:50 am
content: Would be interested to see these mods. That unit is all over ebay uk.

author: felix_GR
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 20, 2016, 06:00:26 pm
content: Thread necro, i know, but maybe someone will find it useful (yeah, in a forum full of guys troubleshooting electronics).Suddenly the fan stopped working, i dismantled (warranty is over) and connected the fan to a PSU, to prove working. I found a cold joint in the fan's connector on the pcb side.Following photos show the secondary board and the fan connector joints repaired :

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2016, 09:47:25 am
content: Hi felix_GR,Just a few days ago I posted a simple way of reducing cooling fan noise in these desolder startions, just in case it is of interest...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/decent-desoldering-ironstation/msg1050021/#msg1050021
HB100 Doppler radar motion sensor  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: LukeW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 11:13:37 am
content: These interesting sensors are quite cheap, about USD$5 for an interesting little device, so I thought I'd take one apart and post a pic of what's inside.The backside of the board shows the transmit and receive antennas - a pair of patch antennas at either side of the board.Upon removing the can, you might be surprised that (except for microstrip structures) there are only 5 components - two ICs (presumably one is an oscillator and one is a mixer), a barium titanate DRO (dielectric resonant oscillator) and one resistor and a capacitor, and three pads for 5VDC, ground and the IF output.The nominal frequency is 10.525 GHz, and a little grubscrew built into the shield can above the DRO "puck" allows for tuning.Some people in the X-band amateur radio community have modified these with an SMA connector, for use as a general purpose 10 GHz local oscillator:http://www.shfmicro.com/gunn.htm

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 03:29:13 pm
content: That's awesome, I was impressed by Google Soli from ATAP:http://www.tomshardware.com/news/google-atap-project-soli-jacquard,29371.htmlAnd NVidia has been also working on it as well:https://research.nvidia.com/publication/short-range-fmcw-monopulse-radar-hand-gesture-sensinghttps://research.nvidia.com/publication/multi-sensor-system-driver%E2%80%99s-hand-gesture-recognitionDo you have a source where to get this for $5?Edit: never mind, google found me plenty of sources

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 04:22:15 pm
content: Thanks for this heads-up. I just bought a few at £2.75 each.Great for 10GHz experimentationAurora

author: chicken
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2016, 07:16:52 pm
content: Here's a great article that covers some of the RF magic in this module.http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/news/teardown-tuesday-hb100-doppler-radar-module/

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2016, 02:54:38 am
content: bigclivedotcom looked at two motion sensing LED lamps that use something similar:
Draper Soldering Station + Source for good alternative tips? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Holmes34
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2016, 03:36:34 am
content: So I've had my firstsoldering station, a Draper 40Wfor a little over 2 months now, and I've been getting along fine with the supplied tip which is pretty fat and some thin 0.8mm solder.However I'd like to point out to any people who might end up buying this station, whilst it heats up pretty fast and get hot enough, it is an absolute nightmare to find replacement/variety tips for this thing! Even Draper's own website seems to only stock asingle type of tipfor this specific iron!It seems to collar on the tips are a very specific length and thickness which I haven't seen in any of the other sets I've found on the net. I think I'll probably end up buying another station with a better variety and availability of tips. Any advice for sourcing tips for a new player would be appreciated!

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2016, 05:26:10 am
content: That's just a light dimmer + firestick, not an actual temperature controlled station.No idea of budget, but I'd suggest aHakko FX-888Das a bare minimum for a proper temperature controlled station (well built & has an excellent selection of tips). The link is for Batterfly in Italy (98EUR + VAT & free shipping). You'd need to change the plug or use an adapter, but that's it (EU plug & 230VAC mains).With more information such as what you'll be doing with it and budget will allow other recommendations that may be a better fit.

author: setq
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2016, 06:09:10 am
content: I'd recommend people grab an Antex firestick if you're going for a budget station. An XS25 is better than a lot of cheap stations and the tips last literally years.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2016, 09:31:57 am
content: Just to point out that there's no reason why you can't add a light dimmer to a basic Antex firestick, both to drop the temperature a little and for tip-saving standby. You might even be able to fit one (Antex, that is) to the Draper base unit, assuming the Draper iron has a mains element.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2016, 07:15:55 pm
content: HiThat model seems to be rebadged by everyone, even Weller had a similar model.Try this company for bitshttp://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d01843/soldering-station-48w/dp/SD01696Hope this helps.

author: Holmes34
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2016, 07:26:36 am
content: Quote from: MosherIV on October 15, 2016, 07:15:55 pmThank you! This seems to essentially solve the problem! I'll probably save more money up over time to get a better station as people have suggested, but I find this station is pretty sufficient at the moment for the through-hole stuff I'm doing.
Do you use FAKRA connectors? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2016, 05:40:49 am
content: I am curious if there are applications for FAKRA RF connectors outside of automotive.

author: aandrew
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2016, 01:21:36 am
content: I don't use them outside of automotive, but I am actually looking for non-RF FAKRA connectors. They have coaxial 4-signal-in-shield connectors that I am having a real bear of a time trying to locate in onesie-twosie volumes. They seem to be made by Rosenberger but I can't find a decent Canadian or American source.
proper shipping method for to-3 can - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: whitevamp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2016, 05:06:20 pm
content: ok so what would the best/ proper method be for shipping a to-3 can?1. anti-static foam stuck on the leads, then wrapped in a anti-static bag, then stick in a small box?2. stick it in a anti-static bag, then inside a small box?3. in a anti-static bag, then wrap it in cardboard then stick in a padded envelope?4. wrapped in bubble wrap and stuck in a small box?5. ??

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2016, 06:00:37 pm
content: When shipped in a flat package, the leads need to be protected from being bent so stiff foam thicker than the lead length should be used. Most power devices have enough leakage or gate capacitance that antistatic precautions are not needed but they may still be a good idea.When they are shipped in bulk inside larger package, then protecting the leads is not as necessary but the better distributors do it anyway.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2016, 06:01:15 pm
content: I'd stick it in a piece of styrofoam to protect the legs and then put it in a padded envelope. I don't think that TO3 really needs static protection, but I could be wrong of course.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2016, 09:23:58 am
content: If you (or the buyer!) are worried about static protection, then wind a thin piece of bare wire around both pins and loop through the mounting holes. Then stick in a decent thickness of styrofoam or whatever. That's how I store my more precious linear mosfets.

author: dansan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2016, 08:19:15 pm
content: This may or may not be relevant to your particular situation with the TO-3, but Dave did a video a few years back where he showed that the pink anti-static bags do not provide ESD protection. To get ESD protection, one of the dark static shielding bags is required.

author: whitevamp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2016, 09:54:52 pm
content: Quote from: dansan on October 13, 2016, 08:19:15 pmyeah I have never been a fan of the pink bags, i have all ways used the metal bags.but thx for the link to the vid.

author: whitevamp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2016, 10:30:13 pm
content: Thank's everyone for the suggestions for the best/proper way to ship a to-3 can.looks like I need to get some bags. ( i know not really needed but i think i would feel better.)just ordered some different styles and sizes of boxes / and envelopes from the post office, to see what will work the best for a container. ( they dont have a free 2X2X3 box, or smaller.)
Does anybody know MCP418? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: masoudium
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2016, 12:39:30 pm
content: Hi,I have bought these MCP418 chips at a wholesale store, but couldn't find any datasheet for this IC through the web?Does anybody know how I can gain some information about them?

author: daveshah
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 05, 2016, 03:37:46 pm
content: It looks a bit like someone has added some black varnish or something and printed the RB205/MCP418 on top (based on the shiny appearance of the top compared to the bottom), either just to give it an in-house part number for some end application or because it is custom programmed. I wonder if you could very carefully remove it somehow (suspect sanding would ruin any marking underneath) and see if anything is printed/laser marked underneath.

author: Davy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2016, 11:11:24 pm
content: The black varnish... would this be called 'black topping'? This is what is found on faked devices. For curiosity try rubbing the print with your finger, sometimes a clue can be had by looking at the indent circle on pin one side.Take a look herehttp://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/52356/how-to-identify-faulty-or-fake-duplicate-icsIt's not just chips it's transistors as well.Sometimes if the 'black topping is removed' try acetone or nail varnish remover you may find the real device number underneath, another trick is they grind the part number off, then print a fake number.Dave

author: masoudium
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2016, 06:10:19 am
content: As you mentioned I removed the printed code with some acetone, and TADA it was a D-Latch underneath.I asked the seller where he has found them and he said in a washing machine!! I believe these chips may be used as extra part for those washing machines.Thanks guys

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2016, 07:01:33 am
content: In a washing machine they would be used as a driver for the LED's and the optocouplers used to control the motors and pumps.
Amscope USB cameras, exposure, diffusors, etc. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2016, 01:09:53 pm
content: I picked up an Amscope MU500 for my Amscope SM-3BZ-80S in hopes to be able to take some pictures for both internal documentation (testing and QC procedures) as well as in the event of an assembly house making mistakes.The experience has been greatly... subpar. I've been running into the issue of silkscreen "glowing" even under low-exposure. This can be seen in the attachment to this post.When experimenting with the settings I decided to test the camera on an old Olympus microscope that I had in the lab. The results on this were fantastic (see attachments). The glowing was gone and the image itself seemed to be sharper.Looking at the difference between the two microscopes, the most immediate difference in the ring-light system. In the older Olympus the light is a fluorescent ring and the Amscope is a bunch of LEDs. The LEDs are not being diffused. After playing with a couple ad-hoc diffuser setups, there was definitely an improvement over the images taken, however, this was not the overall solution.Even with the glowing in the center being mitigated, it seems the overall images of the sides of the image are "blurry". I'm wondering if this could be something related to there being a 0.5x lens on both the camera and the microscope. Looking through the eyepiece, the image is crystal clear and fantastic.Has anyone here been able to get really good pictures out of their Amscope? I specifically picked the MU500 because of the available framerate. If doing rework under it I would need 30-60fps, which isn't available on their higher resolution cameras.EDIT:// I fixed the Olympus image.

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2016, 03:00:47 am
content: That diffraction or haze reminds me of using wide open aperture on overly bright scenes. Is it possible you could make a sort of a lens hood and lower the intensity of your light? I don't think you can adjust the aperture on those. But in any case the issue looks to be optics/lens related.A makeshift hood around your lens may prevent the unwanted stray light you're getting from entering the lens.

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2016, 05:41:03 pm
content: Quote from: Muxr on October 11, 2016, 03:00:47 amThat's definitely something I haven't tried. I'll move the microscope setup into a dark room and give it another test and report back. Thanks!

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2016, 12:09:35 pm
content: It's looking a bit better. I think I need to get my hands on n actual lens hood. I'm using a curled up sheet of white office paper.On the Olympus microsocpe the ring light is located significantly above the bottom of the lens, but on the amscope it's right at the optics.
Stereo Microscope Parfocalness - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2016, 03:39:10 am
content: TLDR, the parfocus of a stereomicroscope is adjustable with the eyepieces.So, I figured this out after my GF used my microscope. Afterwards, I offered her a refresher course. It took me several seconds to figure out why I could not, uh,, see for $%%. One eyepiece was screwed all the way out. I know she's not blind in one eye. She later confirmed how she used the scope by looking at me and closing one eye, lol.Anyhow after refocusing it, I realized it lost parfocus. After a minute of fiddling, I found you have to set the eyepieces more or less exactly at the halfway point for the thing to have parfocus. So it looks like Amscope got the thing quite parfocused from the factory.So much for microscope theory that cheap microscopes won't be parfocal. It's an adjustment. Not a quality issue. LOL.
HAKKO 850,SUPER 850 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nbdy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 01, 2016, 07:00:31 pm
content: Is it possible to add a display so the temperature is readablethe board reads DUOLI850thx

author: amc184
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2016, 07:13:55 am
content: I don't think a real Hakko 850 had a temperature sensor, just a heat adjustment without any feedback. It sounds like you have a knockoff, which may or may not be the same. It's pretty easy to tell, one without a temperature sensor will have three wires coming from the handpiece, two heater wires and an earth. One with a temperature sensor will have five, same as before plus two for the thermocouple.Adding a temperature display won't be trivial, but is possible. You'd have to change the handpiece / hose assembly for one with a thermocouple, plus add a readout.It might be worth pausing and thinking about what a temperature display will show you though. It'll be the temperature of the heater, not the temperature of the hot air leaving the nozzle or the temperature of the part you're soldering. A display won't necessarily be all that useful.

author: nbdy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 05, 2016, 04:22:03 am
content: Ok i got it with another handgrip (with termocouple sensor) I can measure the temperature.thx

author: amc184
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2016, 01:27:23 am
content: No, you'd have to add a temperature meter as well. Something like this maybe:http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-30-800-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature-Test-Panel-Meter-K-Thermocouple-/172218676057?var=&hash=item2819087359:m:maNZBv8WtJoaTMZvT9SpdEwYou'll also need to make sure that:the replacement hand piece is compatible with your station (mechanically and electrically)the temperature meter is compatible with the sensor in the hand piece (probably a K type thermocouple)the station can provide a supply for the temperature meter, or add one

author: nbdy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 09, 2016, 07:51:43 am
content: OK, this guy don't ship to croatia but that's no problem ...The question is : Can I take any new handgrip (with magnet and termocouple) or must I watch for somthing specificthx
Baku BK-936D and BK-936D+ (soldering station) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Srbel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2016, 03:11:48 pm
content: What it the difference? The + version is painted in Hakko style (blue and yellow), while non + one is painted black. Are there any other differences/improvements in + version?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2016, 03:44:33 pm
content: No real idea on your question but the name is funny:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baku_(spirit)
Wank Teardown (Cellphone EMF Detector) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Cyberdragon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2016, 01:27:04 am
content: Bought a box with a small emergency flashlight radio...and this turd for a dollar at a junk auction.It's called the Cell Sensor and on the box is a bunch of wank about cell phones causing cancer and. It flashes red lights and goes *beepity-beep* The manual is missing, but one does not need a manual to operate.Forgot to get pre-destruction pics but oh well, you can easily find those online. What you really want to see is the inside.I was expecting a COB, but it's all through-hole, so there are alot more components than I was expecting. Two chips and two transistors. There is an antenna trace at the top and the probe thing is connected. So it's not entirely fake, it is a real feild strength meter, it's just a really shitty one. I doubt it will pick up cell phone frequencies though, the first stage is a glass germanium diode detector.To make this more interesting, let's play a guessing game. The parts inside are hilarious.What are the two chips? They are both the same, but from different manufacturers.Hint: the two transistors are 9014, the chips are 14 pin.I would not be suprised if the first guess gets it.(Sorry for grainy pic, android camera. Not much to see anyway.)EDIT: The probe appears to be an iron core dip meter coil as a magnet will set it off and actually stick to it. Might be useful for something.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2016, 09:42:51 am
content: Not sure what they used but if I was going to build one... LM324 for the win!

author: Cyberdragon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2016, 09:07:34 pm
content: Quote from: PA0PBZ on October 18, 2016, 09:42:51 amDING DING DING DING DING We have a winner!Yep, first guess got it.They are both labeled as name brand (one TI and one ST), but I don't know if they are used or counterfeits. Interesting that they actually made their own custom meter, despite using the most primative circuits possible. Oddly enough, the board is double sided (for traces only). That must have cost them a few more pennies on the Shenzen market.
A Metcal Promotional offer - valid till end of Dec 2016 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: roli_bark
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2016, 07:20:39 pm
content: A Metcal promotional offer is now in place in which,you buy the MX-5210 kit and you get a Free Tweezers upgrade kit MX-UK4 (basically the MX-5210 kit is upgraded to MX-5241 - for the price of MX-5210).Valid till Dec 2016.Google it...

author: LaurentR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2016, 09:35:00 pm
content: Not as good, but I should note that Zoro has the MX-5210 at $713 and they are running a 25% coupon (SAVETEMBER) until Sept 28, so that's $534.They did run a 30% coupon briefly last week, which would have gotten it down to $499.They don't seem to offer the Metcal promo from the OP.Zoro's prices and stocked items are all over the place, but with somewhat frequent 20/25/30% off, that makes some items very competitively priced.

author: roli_bark
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2016, 07:48:09 am
content: And BTW - for people who seek the mains input 240 vAC compatibility - no problem.Because the main PSU unit is compatible with 100-240 vAC, 50/60HzSo the Tweezers mains input compatibility description (110vAC) is definitely an error.

author: roli_bark
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2016, 07:58:47 am
content: Also note that Sale above is for the Tweezers Hand-Piece ONLY - Part # MX-PTZ (sans Workstand!)While the Upgrade Promo offer lists the Tweezers Hand-Piece + Workstand Part # MX-UK4 kit,(Part # MX-PTZ + Part # MX-W4PT), as the free upgrade kit giveaway.

author: nowlan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2016, 08:01:26 am
content: http://www.jensentools.com/product/pdf/Metcal%20Fall%20Promo.pdfuse promo code p5-mxuk4 when ordering. tweezer catridges sodl separately. Available from authorize metcal distributors worldwide. offer ends dec 31, 2016

author: roli_bark
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2016, 10:21:36 am
content: http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/metcal/promotions/2016-metcal-tweezer-upgrade-promo.htmNo need for Promo Code, Fedex Ground free shipping.
Uses for a pre-heating platform - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Harvs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2016, 11:27:56 pm
content: I picked up one of these:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-preheat-station-200-200MM-Digital-constant-temperature-heating-platform-for-SMD-BGA-PCB-mobile-phone/32376908218.htmlSeems to work exactly as advertised, which why I bought it was to preheat small boards that I'm reworking.Given these are pretty common, I'm wonder what other people use them for? Possibly even reflow boards on them? (albeit there heat up time would be too slow.)

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2016, 11:20:54 pm
content: I've used a similar device (lab hot plate) for reflow soldering.It used to be very popular, google skillet reflow:https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/59For certain delicate parts it might work better than hot air (LEDs).

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2016, 01:28:27 am
content: Mobile device repairers are the primary market I think. Pre-heating during reballing / reflow. Maybe also for heating the screen/digitizer adhesive for removal.Aside from that, keeping your cup of tea hot maybe :-)

author: Harvs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2016, 02:03:32 am
content: Quote from: sleemanj on September 24, 2016, 01:28:27 amActually works surprisingly well for that! It just happened to be the one flat clear area on my bench, and happened to be at about 100 degrees
capillary oven controller to control temperature for toaster reflow? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: julian1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2016, 06:02:18 am
content: I have a small toaster oven which has the following advantages,- small - 9litre- inexpensive- high power to volume- bars somewhat shielded, meaning more convective, less radiant- lots of room to rewire, add relays etc.- easy to heat insulateWhat it doesn't have is any kind of adjustable temperature controller,So as an alternative to full ucontroller/digital system with the ability to run reproducible profiles, I was thinking of wiring up a simple capillary controller like these,https://www.google.com.au/search?q=capillary+oven+controller&newwindow=1&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X.The one I'm looking at are rated 50-300C.For the moment, I would be content to manually time it, and calibrate the reflow results by eye.The only limitation I can think of is that the feedback loop with the big capillary bulb, might be a bit slow, compared with the low-mass of a k-type thermocouple tip.Does anyone have experience with these, or other insights why this might be a good/bad idea?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2016, 06:30:33 am
content: Simple reply is no, those have really horrid overshoot, and very poor temperature control. In the regular food cooking scenario it really does not matter if the oven is 50c above setpoint for 10 minutes before the thermostat cycles, but your PCB will be a flaming mess long before it switches the element off.eBay has plenty of really cheap ( may not be the greatest, but should work for this application) PID controllers, which are both faster acting ( thermocouple types are fast if needed) and a whole lot more accurate than the mechanical type. Price is the same range as well, and as a bonus you have a easier to set display and a built in thermometer as well.

author: julian1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2016, 07:23:38 am
content: Thanks, you convinced me. The ebay PID controllers, do look better.
JBC PA120-A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: klaus11
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 22, 2016, 07:32:25 am
content: Can anyone recommend the most versatile cartridge for PA120-A micro tweezers.

author: klaus11
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 22, 2016, 12:56:29 pm
content: From the JBC support, they have answered as the most versatile:- C120902- C120006
SN-28B crimp tool. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2016, 01:01:36 pm
content: anybody got one / used one?i am looking for a good crimp tool for 2.54 and 3.96mm molex-style crimps.it's hard to find tools that actually specify these,

author: bicc1306
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2016, 02:08:45 pm
content: Check below. I found some of the crimping tools according to your requirement.http://www.ebay.com/bhp/pin-crimping-tool

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2016, 03:12:10 pm
content: i wasnt asking for a link, i was asking if they are any good!