Remove speaker audio pop when the computer goes to sleep - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: BoKKeR
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2020, 01:19:24 pm
content: I have my speakers connected to my computer and there is a noticeable pop caused by the computer going to sleep causing a voltage drop.Is there any circuit/device I can chain between my computer and speakers that would keep the speaker line alive even when the computer goes to sleep? I have a ton of experience with soldering and circuits just not really big on audio. Any hint is appreciatedTurning off the speakers every time I leave the room is not feasible.

author: HB9EVI
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2020, 01:38:03 pm
content: if available on the amp/computer use a toslink connection; that solved (not only) this problems for me already long time ago

author: BoKKeR
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2020, 01:50:44 pm
content: this is not possible, didn't want to complicate the OP but the speakers are connected to the monitor, when PC/laptop goes to sleep so does the monitor. There is only 3.5mm jack on it.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2020, 04:26:24 pm
content: Quote from: BoKKeR on November 22, 2020, 01:50:44 pmIs the pop caused by the PC/laptop going to sleep or the monitor going to sleep? The monitor is powering the speakers, right?

author: BoKKeR
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2020, 05:05:17 pm
content: The pop is caused by the monitor going to sleep. The monitor handles the 3.5mm audio and it passes it to the pc using displayPort. So when the monitor goes to sleep it pops :/

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2020, 05:54:07 pm
content: Quote from: BoKKeR on November 22, 2020, 05:05:17 pmThat will be tougher to deal with then. As I recall, the sound bar on my old Dell monitor had the same problem.A properly sized electrolytic capacitor in series with each speaker will help somewhat by creating a high pass response but also reduce bass response. 47 microfarads would be a good place to start.

author: pwlps
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2020, 01:47:37 am
content: An external sound card connected via a powered USB hub. I'm using the UCA222 (20 euros) which has a 3.5mm jack output and a volume control knob. As a bonus you get much better sound quality (at least this is what I find comparing to the audio outputs of a few pcs I tried; you might not notice it with small pc speakers but with headphones the difference can be blatant).

author: BoKKeR
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2020, 04:46:14 pm
content: the capacitor idea sounds interesting but its probably not worth if the audio quality degrades.About the usb hub. I am planning on buying a XLR interface like the Motu M2, would that also work for this? I cant really figure it out from the product sheets.

author: pwlps
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2020, 08:20:51 pm
content: Quote from: BoKKeR on November 25, 2020, 04:46:14 pmOf course Motu M2 is a higher level gear, it's also 10x the price of UCA222. For audio output (ie. to drive my powered monitors) I'm also using an xlr interface, currently an UMC22 connected to my DEQ2496 (as you see I'm a Behringer fan). BTW I wonder how my umc22 compares to those expensive Motu interfaces. Anyway the headphone output is a 6.3 mm jack on these boards, you will need an adapter but it's 5 euros max.

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2020, 12:33:30 pm
content: You got me looking at the Motu M2.(I looked at the UMC22, but I really want an interface with two universal mic/instrument inputs.)I have an old Lexicon Alpha but the gain is inadequate for my Shure SM58.I've also found it to be balky.

author: pwlps
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2020, 05:53:34 pm
content: Quote from: Renate on November 27, 2020, 12:33:30 pmYes, it seems the Berhringer's equivalent of the M2 is the UMC202HD.Here is a detailed comparison of headphone outputs :

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2020, 07:07:32 pm
content: Quote from: pwlps on November 27, 2020, 05:53:34 pmYeah, I looked at that.Still, I'm afraid of getting burned by another unit with insufficient gain.All the manufacturers quote gain by some obscure number.It's not like "with input at -60 dBm you can get 0dB FS with the gain set at 75% rotation".It's more like, "Our device has 120 dB gain input to output!" i.e the output level is cranked.A better question would be, "Could I Zoom with this and a dynamic mic?"

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2020, 09:00:12 pm
content: Quote from: BoKKeR on November 25, 2020, 04:46:14 pmIt might be acceptable for voice and operating system sound applications, but I agree.I might gut the sound bar, directly connecting the speakers to the input, and drive them with an external amplifier. Or perhaps get a small amplifier board, one without the existing defect, to replace the existing internal amplifier.