all about lubricants - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 01:21:29 am
content: So I went to the hardware store and splurged on lubricants.I got:-teflon impregnated-Silicone impregnated-"dry" liquid lubricant-"penetrating" lubricant-standard motor oil-anti seize compound, (I heard this is useful on soldering iron screw threads, good to 1200F)-CRC precision lubricant- CRC cutting/drilling oil (this stuff is like shaving cream),-wd white lithium containing-wd40 corrosion inhibitor (from youtube videos this looks very interesting)-regular WD40-dry lock lubricant (I think its graphite in some kind of liquid, meant for lubricating lock internals)-belt lubricant-graphite powder lubricant-garage door lubricantI began to read about lubricants a bit, its rather interesting.Please write interesting things about lubricants in this thread

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 01:41:34 am
content: There's a very good Aussie product (did I really say that) calledInox, it's an almost clear GP lubricant, water displacer and anticorrosive product. It's also food grade.A bit higher viscosity than the CRC or WD40 products and therefore in my experience not as well suited as a penetrant.I buy in 5 litre packs but it's available in a range of packs including aerosols.http://www.inoxmx.com/inox/mx-3-lubricant/

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 02:09:32 am
content: there's obviously an overlap between lubricants and corrosion preventors, so much so that many products claim to do both. In situations where you want to protect sliding metal surfaces, both qualities can be required. A lot of firearm products are like that, such as Ballistol, Breakfree CLP or Eezox.certain compounds are specifically added for lubrication under high temperatures and pressures:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extreme_pressure_additiveZDDP is the additive in motor oil.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 03:23:44 am
content: There is no good use for WD40 in electronics IMHO. It is corrosive and has no real lubricating properties. It is Water Displacement formula #40. That is its original use and perhaps its only use. It should not be left on any surface you care about.

author: jtstowell
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 04:10:18 am
content: Quote from: Lightages on June 12, 2016, 03:23:44 amSince you mention it in passing, WD40 actually works pretty well as a solvent. It was, for example, the only way I could remove the gooey de-vulcanized rubber feet from a laptop, a while back.

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 04:11:28 am
content: yea for wd40 I only use it for water displacement. then i will typically degrease and use one of the other lubricants

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 04:13:09 am
content: Quote from: jtstowell on June 12, 2016, 04:10:18 amI use "goo gone" for this purpose.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 05:07:40 am
content: One hardware store variety I am not sure is on your list is the silicone lube used on swimming pool valves and pumps. Doesn't wash away in water, and the only way I know to get it off your hands is mechanically with lots of towels.The following link will show some hint of the varieties of oils and greases available.http://www.speclubes.com/PRODUCTSSearches on tribology will give lots of interesting material.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 06:52:13 am
content: There's cosmetic grade mineral oil often sold as "baby oil" in the US. It's great for lubing items (e.g tools) that often come in contact with skin, since it is specifically designed to not cause adverse reactions with extended contact.

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 06:59:31 am
content: Quote from: CatalinaWOW on June 12, 2016, 05:07:40 amI read the silicone one does not have stuff stick to it... so I have been using it on threads that can get dirty with filings and stuff, for instance vises. I heard its popular with bicycle chains.I have been using the teflon one for hand tool joints. I am not sure what is better for shears (teflon or silicon). I was told that it should not be used with things that cycle alot, as teflon can actually percipitate out (i.e. don't use it on air tools).The "dry" one i think has even less "stick" then the silicone one, so I have been using that on vise beds and files that I have restored from rust using wd40 rust remover (weird stuff that smells a bit like pesticide) and gentle brushing with a brass brush. It seems to work fine and I do not notice the files clogging up. To restore the files I used the rust remover, washed them, coated with regular wd40, used the brass brush, cleaned using degreaser and applied the "dry" lubricant. I assume this has higher friction then the silicone.The penetrating lubricant I have also used on hand tools, in conjunction with the teflon one. I use it on tight connections (i.e. the machined flat "rivet" in side cutters, etc) very sparingly. I assume its primary use is for dealing with seized connections.I have not used the motor oil one yet. It says it is for small engines that are under 1/4 horse power. I have not dealt with a engine repair yet.I am not sure where I should be using the standard one, so I tend to use that as an ad-hoc grease. I heard vague rumors that it might be a good cutting/drilling oil for aluminum.the above are all the "three in one" brand.The WD40 corrosion inhibitor I spray on crap that is left outside etc, like steel plates, so they corrode less. It seems to work very well.The white lithium WD40 grease I sprayed on my car door hinges, as I read it is meant for a heavy load. I also applied it to the underside of my vise (where filings are not likely to get in). I suspect that a molybdenum grease is best for this application but I do not own it yet.I apply regular kerosene on my aluminum file directly prior to use, then degrease afterwords for storage.regular WD40 I use on tools that have gotten wet, then remove it and apply a different grease. I read it was originally for preventing paper thin steel oxygen tanks from rusting. I also use it for temporary protection on stuff that is a work in progress, for instance if I am restoring something rusty and I want to take a break, i will hose it down with cheap WD40. WD40 is very easy to remove so it is great as a temporary grease.The dry lock lubricant I put in all my keyways.I hosed down the garage door "rail" with the garage door grease, and it seems to work well.The belt lubricant I will apply to the drill press. I am not sure if I should apply it to the bandsaw "threads".The dry graphite powder lubricant I have not used yet, I believe it was meant for locks. I did notice that the dry lock liquid spray lubricant will run out of the lock if you apply too much, and when the runoff evaporates it will leave a stain. I noticed that the dry graphite powder just makes a mess. I am not sure when it will come in handy.I have tried the CRC cutting oil (foam like shaving cream) for drilling hard steel.It works near perfectly if you are drilling top down. It will stay on the drill and it seems like the drill drags it into the hole you are making. I have tried it with drilling hard steel using cobalt drill bits. I feel that you would need to make a little "mound" around your drill hole with some kind of putty to get the same performance from a liquid lubricant. Chips are still extracted fine, they do not shoot out and they are all contained in the grease foam. It is kind of cool to watch them slowly get ejected through the viscous liquid and very satisfying to clean it up and throw that shit out without having the sweep or vacuum.If you are drilling with the drill perpendicular to the earth, it is not perfect (i.e. it will run off so it needs to be reapplied and you get a little puddle under what you are drilling), however it seems to be a very good solution, considering normal lubricants are nearly unusable in this position. It takes a little bit of practice but you can find a way to apply it so it slowly gets sucked into the drill. I don't think you will get anything better for this job unless you have a magnetic drill with cooling.I give it 5 stars. It should be noted that this stuff is tacky and if you get it on your hands it does not make them slick.I have a sort of wax that is meant for drilling also, it looks kind of like soft candle wax. I have not tried it yet. I heard you can apply it to a band saw or drill bit.I also have compressor oil and air tool oil, which I use for manufacturer recommended tools. I am not looking to mess around with complex machinery lubricants.I am still unclear as to what lubricants should be used with what types of drills on what kinds of metals.Most of the specialty greases I have in liquid form. the three in one brand ones are fairly runny and they seem to coat a surface rather well. Having all of these in aerosol cans would be rather bulky and I am not sure when I would need to spray these specialty greases.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 12:49:06 pm
content: Cutting wax is great on saws, like the bandsaw, hacksaw and jigsaw, making the cut easier and cooler, plus it tends to stay around in the cut. On a drill it is good at low speeds, but high speed tends to make little bits fly all over the place.A cheap and quick belt lubricant is a regular piece of chalk, applied to the noisy belt. Keeps it quiet for a while.Just be careful of the white lithium grease on plastics, it will crack many common engineering plastics, like nylon and such, as it chemically reacts with it. As well it will corrode copper containing bushes as well, it really is only used on steel bearings with nitrile rubber seals.

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 02:26:33 pm
content: ah then it would be prudent to use it carefully on a good vise which has a copper containing part where the threaded rod goes through and ensure none gets on the jaws.I am amazed at how many lubricants there are.