Confirm Hakko T18 tips fit Atten 936B? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: rbm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2016, 11:42:36 pm
content: I inherited an Atten 936B soldering station and need additional tips. I found Hakko T18 tips which I believe fit the iron on this station. Can anyone confirm (before I commit to an order for the tips)?

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2016, 08:08:49 am
content: For the original genuine Hakko 936 (the 907 iron) there were two types of tip sleeves. The more common 900M and the 900L. The 900M is T18 compatible. The 900L are the larger thermal mass tips and may be identified by holes in the sleeve, however Chinese clones don't have to have the holes.So as long as you have the smaller sleeve you should be able to fit 900M or T18 tips. You can also convert them to either way with genuine Hakko if you can find them or Chinese parts found on ebay.https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_900m.htmlhttps://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/series_900l.htmlJust so you're aware, if you buy tips or parts from Ebay or Amazon there is a large chance that they are the cheap Chinese copies that go for a buck on Ebay. The genuine tips start at about $5 and are sold by Hakko Resellers.

author: rbm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 07:17:22 pm
content: Thanks for all the good advice Shock.Ended up getting two genuine Hakko T18 tips from a local electronics house - T18-C3 and T18-D16 (the only two they stock). These fit the Atten 936B I have perfectly.Dave in the EEVBlog video on soldering recommends a well tip for drag soldering SMDs. It looks to be similar in shape to the T18-C3 I bought but the C3 is completely flat. I can't find a well-shaped tip like that in the Hakko catalog. Is there a 900M or T18 series that is shaped like that?

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 10:13:46 pm
content: 900M-T-3CMC = hoof/bevel tipthe M is for "modified" = dished/concave faceT18-3CF is also good for drag soldering. There's no hollow, but the F means it is tinned face, only. This keeps the solder from pulling over onto the side/heel of the tip. With a CF tip you store a reservoir of solder on the face, in the form of a convex bead. But it only takes a very tiny bit of bead over a 3mm surface to store a relatively lot of solder for drag soldering. Almost a clean tip is all it takes for IC's. And the F makes it able to control a very large bead for other SMD uses. Very large as in >10x as much solder as a dished face can hold and control.Personally, I prefer CF. Since Hakko makes only the CF tip for the more modern T18, it looks like someone at Hakko agrees.Why does no one make a CMF? I dunno. That might be very nice.

author: rbm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2016, 01:01:12 am
content: Again, thank you. I will consider getting one of the CM tips one day but it's good to know the P/N. I will forge ahead with the two tips I have and probably all will go well.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2016, 02:53:56 am
content: With the 3C tip, I find the most forgiving way to drag solder an IC is1. flux pads2. place IC3. clean tip, then apply just a dab of solder on the face4. place the edge of the tip up against the toe of the pins, with the tip sorta tilted slightly so that's the only part that is touching the pcb.5. Drag across the toes of the pins.If there's no room for that, you can also just place the face on top of the pins. That is how I do it with a CF. With a C, you just have to be careful because too much solder will make a bridge that sucks up into the shoulders of the pin and which don't automatically come away with the C tip. You may have to wipe the tip off to clear a bridge; you might need to do that twice, even. So if it doesn't clear itself the first or second swipe, stop and clean the tip. Else you will end up having to add more flux, too, while you're at it.With the 3CF, I can use 5x as much solder as I need, and still come away clean and/or remove a bridge. Then solder 4 more ICs. This sounds nice, right? Well, the real bonus is you can load the tip with a huge blob and solder potentially dozens (depending on the pad size) of passives at a go. So for what I do, a CF is basically better at almost everything.

author: The_Penguin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 03:03:30 am
content: Quote from: Shock on April 29, 2016, 08:08:49 amHmm. I have a 936 with a 907 iron. No holes in the sleeve if I remember correcly.I acquired it from a company that was shutting down in 2003, so it was likely purchased before 2002. Not sure if Chinese clones were common back then.Anyway, I purchased 2 genuine T18s today at a local shop, and they're too small, won't fit on my 907.Guess I'll be returning them (hopefully they'll take back the open one) and look for some elsewhere.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 04:09:57 pm
content: Quote from: The_Penguin on June 17, 2016, 03:03:30 amCould be a clone sleeve, show us photos of everything dismantled with the tips next to each other and explain how they don't fit.You need to check if you are using a genuine Hakko 936, genuine 907 iron, genuine heater, genuine tip, with the original small nut/collar (as opposed to the large one). If a T18 tip fits over the heater but is loose in the collar it sounds like the iron you have is setup for the 900L series.This is not just from me that the Hakko 900M and T18 series tips are compatible it was written on the Hakko USA website and also when someone visited Hakko in Japan they noted that Hakko were still making 900M tips as there was demand.The T18 tips were an improved design sold with the Hakko 888 station but cover almost exactly the same tip sizes in the 900M series. It was never official on the Hakko Japan site which is why it's not commonly known.You might find this page useful:https://www.hakko.com/english/maintenance/topic_936_937_928_kote.html

author: The_Penguin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2016, 02:30:37 am
content: Quote from: Shock on June 17, 2016, 04:09:57 pmI definitely wasn't doubting you or others, just confused.The T18 is smaller and doesn't fit where the 900 came off. I may still be confused, if I remove the sleeve over the ceramic element, the T18 fits directly over the ceramic, not sure if that's normal or not, this is the first time I've ever considered changing a tip on this unit.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2016, 05:02:11 am
content: If the new T18 tip fits snug in the collar that retains the tip to the handle with the nut, that sleeve you have is probably not required.Check if it just says 907 only on the handle, hopefully if so you have a standard size element instead of a small one and that sleeve may have either fallen out of the old tip or was an adapter.The 936 manual (page 11) shows all the parts of the 907:https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/936manual.pdfIf you can measure the internal diameter of the T18 tip and the element you can probably work out what you have. Tips should be a loose fit over the ceramic element anyway. Refer to these posts for more info:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/genuine-vs-fake-hakko-solder-tip/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/genuine-vs-fake-hakko-936-ceramic-heater-a1321/

author: The_Penguin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2016, 07:02:48 pm
content: Thanks for the reply. Yes the handle just says 907, no other numbers/letters.The new T18 tips seem tight enough when installed without the extra sleeve, so I suspect all is well after all.Also, in reading up on tips I kept reading about how great the FX-951 is, so out of curiosity, I looked into them.The place I purchased the T18s from had it for $378.00 Canadian. Typical for these guys, I often wonder how they're still in business, but I guess they get the old Radio Shack crowd who just don't know any better.Then I happened to be at one of the more reputable (the only decent one left in this town) suppliers, and they had it for $262.00 CAN. I couldn't resistInterestingly enough this is the same place that I purchased my first "real" soldering station from. A Weller WTCPR for $89.95 back in 1984! I still have it, and use it occasionally at the office.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2016, 03:35:32 am
content: You can put together a station with a clone HAKKO FM-2027/FM-2028 iron (that the Hakko 951 uses) and an original or clone Hakko T12 T5 tip for under $50. Will look nothing like a Hakko except the handle. They sell power supplies and controllers on Aliexpress and all sorts of different types of kits.