Fluke 8060a refurb... possible mainboard-to-micro hack and oled conversion - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2018, 04:37:13 am
content: Hey all,I've really enjoyed reading all the 8060a repair threads on this forum and over at modemhead's site...I've got an 8060a that I think has a bad mainboard-to-micro elastomeric strip - everything's been cleaned many times with 99% ipa. The lcd is probably okay and is the older style without the integrated polarizer. It uses the old, roundish lcd-to-micro strip and has some faded segments but the real problem is the micro exhibits signs that it can't talk to the mainboard (hung boots, locked continuity, general wonkiness)I was considering replacing the elastomeric strip with a soldered-in, pluggable connector and then doing an oled conversion (dmitri on modemhead's site did an awesome led conversion in "a-very-unique-fluke-8060a"). But before I do any permanent damage, does anybody have an extra micro board and a mainboard-to-micro elastomeric strip? If another elastomeric strip works, I can skip soldering on a connector... and I'd like to have an extra micro board to prototype my oled conversion (I could solder wires onto the lcd pads and still have my original to go back to).I don't have many spare parts but I do have new bale/stand and an inner top shield to trade if that's interesting to anyone.

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 02:48:51 am
content: I know this is an old post, but did you do the display conversion? I have three parts units, so I should have a processor and strip if you need it. Regards, Dale KS4NS

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 05:18:02 am
content: Hey Dale,I didn't get very far with it... Vindoline generously sent me a micro board which I soldered up and made into a breakout board of sorts, but something was up with the processor and that board wouldn't run. I'm not sure if I fried it doing the soldering (I like to think I do decent solder work!), or if it wasn't working to begin with... but I couldn't get a pulse out of it. I've since been distracted with other projects but would like to get back to it.Two other "display rework" options did occur to me:1. Instead of using an oled - that requires something to read/interpret/translate the current lcd drive signals - it might just be easier to do an smd led display made out of pcb layers. Modemhead wrote up a post on his site about a meter Dmitri reworked with LEDs, but my idea is to use the pcb manufacturer to make a 3 board display sandwich... bottom board with pads for the leds/segments, middle board with routed slots for the segments, and the top board for a diffuser mask. Then I'd have to solder in a bunch of leds and maybe add some glue for extra diffusing, but I bet it would work. I saw somebody build a 7-seg clock display this way on hackaday.2. Discard the current micro board and build/program a new one that drives an oled instead, but that would require reverse-engineering the signals to/fro the mac/micro and then re-writing the software to do all the calcs and tests and gahh I've already got a headache. I never did ask Dave Taylor if the source code for the micro chip was ever found (if it would even be able to be shared). I think he mentioned it the amp-hour pod-cast, and that his friend that wrote it had unfortunately passed.I do love these meters though... and I still think it'd be cool to have a cheap easy display replacement.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 07:34:40 am
content: Quote from: ogdento on October 15, 2018, 04:37:13 amThe electrolytic caps in the 8060A leak from the bottom bung and are usually NOT visible by looking at them. If they have leaked, they can cause problems like the 8060A not booting, etc.I suggest taking a very close look at all the electrolytic caps and possibly desoldering some to check the bottom bung.

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 04:24:21 pm
content: I'm looking at another option; super thin green 7-digit LEDs that are now available. Those plus a few single LEDs might work fine. I think I should be able to squeeze them in the space alloted. A black overlay would be required like Dimitri's. Dale

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 04:57:45 pm
content: Hey retiredcaps! Thanks for the reply, but the meter itself is fine - I was just swapping out the micro board.and Dale, this thread has a picture of what I was doing initially...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-8060a-refurbish-questions/msg1971275/#msg1971275and the following hackaday thread is what I was talking about with the multiple layer pcb sandwich display... I was going to try it with only two layers, skipping the top "diffuser" board that he's got, and trying hot-glue or epoxy right in the routed-out channel as a diffuser. my top board was going to mate with the elastomer (to make it removable) and would have the channels for the leds, while the bottom board would have the leds on it. I think this would be the simplest and most readily reproducible way to go, I drew a sketch of what I'm talking about but can't find it!https://hackaday.com/2016/08/23/charliplexed-7-segment-display-takes-advantage-of-pcb-manufacturers/

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 05:07:59 pm
content: Hey JDale,I realized I posted at the same time you did and missed yours... I swa some thin-ish 7-segs but didn't find anything thin enough, which ones did you find? That would greatly simplify things!

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 06:06:41 pm
content: Here's a couple of sketches... there's nothing to scale and I didn't work up a pcb or schematic, these are just general ideas...This is what the display would look like (using a thin vinyl/plastic top mask that would be cut-out for the words):This is the top board I envisioned that would mate (via pads on the underside) with the elastomer:The bottom board would have the leds soldered onto it and probably use castellated edges to solder it to the underside of the top board:After the leds were fitted, and the two boards connected, I'd fill the led "channels" with glue/epoxyBut the thin 7-segment display idea would make this a lot less tedious... I could just route out giant square holes in the top board so they'd fit.

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2020, 07:09:48 pm
content: at risk of, I found the mock-up of my OLED idea. Beware it's a total smoke-show... just an OLED connected to an arduino so I could find a workable font and fiddle with layout. It doesn't sample any lcd lines or do anything usefulNote that it shows "Ohms"... I was going to sample the function selection lines as well so I could show Volts(ac/dc)/Amps(ac/dc)/Ohms/etc (a stock 8060 does not show this). In the end, as I alluded to above, I don't think trying to sample and translate lcd drive lines is going to work all that well. But it would look friggin cool.

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2020, 12:10:58 am
content: The thin LCDs I found were by Kingbright. However, they had NO decimal point. Bummer. Now, Kingbright has some lcds that are reverse mounted within holes in the PCB, just what the doctor ordered for your concept. I was just looking at homebrew coke can aluminum stencils that could be used for the top layer. I am concerned about lcd heat on anything else.https://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Aluminum-Solder-Mask/Make aluminum stencils and paint/anodize the aluminum black. I have cleaned up one of my existing displays and will copy the clear circuit layout to see where each pin goes. Have to hold the light just right and the clear circuits will reflect. My thoughts are to reuse the zebra pad and elastomeric piece, so there will be no additional wiring. The pcb will just replace the lcd. Pretty straightforward except I will probably have to convert from ExpressPCB to KICAD to enable the hole cuts. Plan B is that I am going to repair the original display by replacing the back polarized sheet and mylar backing. I have ordered the materials to give that a try. I think that, as long as the liquid crystals haven't leaked out, I should be able to restore it. Won't know 'till I try. My first career in my youth was commercial art, so I am very comfortable with an xacto knife. Dale

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2020, 01:15:18 am
content: Hmm, I'll have to take another look at the 7-segment ones... I just checked the Kingbright website and I'm pretty sure that was where I was looking, but it was a while ago so maybe they've gotten thinner.Good point about redoing the polarizer and mylar backing... I did carve open one of my bad displays after seeing a post by modemhead and it worked pretty well. I didn't have any mylar on hand so I just put some white paper behind the glass... it's not great but it works. Post some pics when you get yours fixed up!And I'm pretty sure I took a photo of one of these displays that showed all the circuit lines on the glass... I'll post it when I find it.

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2020, 02:07:11 am
content: super ghetto white paper backing on the lcd...

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2020, 05:46:09 am
content: Dale,I found a sketch that I worked up after looking at some scans Dmitri sent me, so I entered it into Kicad and attached it here. While I was entering the schematic I remembered that we can't use 7-segment displays that have a common anode or cathode, since the 8060's multiplexing scheme won't work with those.The multiplexing scheme is pretty straightforward - this is taken off the schematic in the manual:pin H1 H2---------------1 H12 cont bar3 rel audible4 A0 B05 G0 C06 E0 D07 F0 DP08 A1 B19 G1 C110 E1 D111 F1 DP112 A2 B213 G2 C214 E2 D215 F2 DP216 A3 B317 G3 C318 E3 D319 F3 DP320 1/2 1/221 BT NEG22 K HZ23 H2Dmitri used more resistors than I did (he had one per anode whereas I have one per shared anode - this might not work!)... so his "pin" 3 connection (for the rel and audible indicators) had the LED cathodes going to H1 and H2, a resistor on each LED anode, and then connected to pin 3.Here's my schematic (I have not tested any of it yet):

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2020, 07:22:52 am
content: There is a problem with Your schematic.The LEDs are current driven devices, LCDs are voltage driven devices.Consider the junction of four LEds in the right most digit where top and middle LEDS join to two other LEDS along the right side of the digit. There is no return path for the current.Your adaption has to accept the individual segment drive voltages and EXOR them with the back plane drive signal to decode the LED current drive.You can then use either common cathode or common anode depending on whether the current is sourced or sunk.

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2020, 05:15:06 pm
content: Hey Iconic, thanks for noticing that... the junction for A/G/E/F should have been connected to H1 (at the line that comes off of the REL, CONT, K), but I goofed - and then repeated the mistake on all digits!I haven't tested this or even checked any of the signals yet - I need to put a meter on a scope and look at H1/H2 and the pins. In the docs from Dmitri the H1/H2 signal was a 3v peak-to-peak square wave (from 2-5 volts) at 156Hz, assuming I translated it correctly. I assumed H1/H2 were 180 out of phase so that when H1 was high, H2 would be low... so if pin4 was high for 1 H1/H2 cycle and H1 started high, H2 would be low - sinking current and illuminating B0. Then when H2 went high, H1 would go low - sinking current and illuminating A0. Does that sound even remotely plausible?

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2020, 05:25:20 pm
content: Before I go any further I really need to check the signals at the meter's display connector.I added a shot to this thread of what I soldered up last year (thanks to a donor card from vindoline), but it didn't work... I'm pretty sure it worked with another micro board without a display so I'm not sure if I broke the board vindoline gave me. The SM-4 is static sensitive and I do use a wrist strap... could I have killed it with my soldering iron? It's an un-grounded weller 25-watt job from the early 90s, and I've read about zapping stuff with un-grounded irons but I'm not sure how often it happens in practice (and i've soldered hundreds of static sensitive devices with it over the years).

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2020, 10:46:51 pm
content: The way the LCD drive works is typically as folows.Firstof all DC may be used but it is not ikely to be benevlent to the LCD dispaly.Usuall approach is a bi phase drive ( as you have noted ).The backplane is driven with one phase while the active segment is driven 180 degrees out of phase such that the liquid crystals are driven by an alterating potential between the backplane and the segment electrode.Inactive segment electrode is driven by the backplane signal. This voltage between the segment and the backplane is decoded with an EXCLUSIVE OR gatewhose output is LOW for inactive condition and HIGH for segment on condition. From here on the segment activity is processed to drive the LED display.So in a nutshell six quad EXOR chips to decode LCD signals followed by an LED display drive(r).

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 12:20:20 am
content: I'm confused. How did Dmetri do this without the extra chips?http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/a-very-unique-fluke-8060a/I think I will concentrate on completing the template and leave it to others to do the pcb. I have attached a draft of the display overlay done in Coreldraw. This is the original as best I could reproduce it. Everything will need to be altered to allow for laser or knife cutting. I'll finish it up and post it as a cut file for future use. I hope someone will pick up the baton and do a pcb. Regards, Dale

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 12:36:27 am
content: Hey Dale/Iconic,Now I get what you're saying about the XORsbut I don't think we need them yet... I'm more or less copying what has already been done by Dmitri, and he used only LEDs and resistors.But he selected extremely low current LEDsso they could be driven by the SM-4 without separate drivers.With that said, if this works out and there's ample room on the board it might make sense to do a rev 2 that has more robust drive circuitry - but adding anything like that is going to increase current draw and might affect the meter operation. I'd also be curious if this driver-less design hastens the expiration of the SM-4 chip in any way - if it draws the same current then I think it might be safe (famous last words!)My original goal in all of this was to come up with something that is simple to produce... Dmitri's display was quite labor intensive as he glued/wired each individual led and resistor and custom milled his own face plate.

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 12:46:31 am
content: Hey Dale that looks great!One thing I'll point out is if we're using LEDs I don't think we can have the same long continuity bar... we'd probably need 3 or 4 leds to make it that big, which relates to Iconic's point that we really don't have proper drive circuitry here.It looks like Dmitri only used 1 led to show the continuity bar (i think it's the blue one between the continuity and audible indicators)

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 12:54:00 am
content: Yes, that was one thing I planned to change. This first step was to get everything in position on the replacement pcb. Also, the LED segments need to be made smaller. When finished, it will be very similar to Dmetri's.Given the previous conversations, we need to find some very low current LED like Dmetry used. Dale

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 11:55:55 am
content: I think any green LEd will do. Note the quoted current is average value.The eye will repond to low average value but reasonably high peak value.In fact as long as the back plane pin can sink/ source milliamps of current then direct drive of LED is possiblewhen segment drive and backplane drive signals are not in phase and the current is limited to a low but usable value.The LED reverse voltage needs to be observed so it does not failunder reverse bias conditions.

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 05:48:15 pm
content: Thanks Iconic - this is good information!I was finally able to find a datasheet for the SM-4a... it was in a 1990s sharp microcomputer book. I'll give it a look tonight.

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 08:47:51 pm
content: Ooops, I forgot to attach the datasheet. This is for the SM-4a... I'm not sure if they're the same, but it does show the voltage/current ratings for the segment and backplane pins

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 10:49:54 pm
content: Here is my draft cut file for the display overlay. I don't have a cutter, so I can't see if it is correct. Maybe someone who has a metal or vinyl cutter can give it a go to see if I have everything right. You can look at the pdf file. The eps file is zipped. Could I get a .sch file for your schematic? Dale

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2020, 11:29:58 pm
content: i found a few tiney box glitches in the .eps file, but I don't know if they will be a problem. There is one little box in each digit group. I will try to clean it up tomorrow. Dale

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2020, 02:35:10 am
content: great draft of the overlay! I believe yours is a spot-on reproduction of Dmitris... but I was hoping to make a few changes (to mine at least). I wanted to lengthen the segments so that the overall display doesn't look so "choppy", for lack of a better word. How big I can make them will depend on the material I use for a diffuser (epoxy, hot glue, pcb, etc).I also rounded my segment edges - and can't make them as close as I'd like - because a pcb cutting machine is actually going to be routing this out. I also made the digits bigger/taller since we don't have a continuity bar at the very top.I whipped up a quick sketch of your draft (labelled "A") vs. what I was thinking (labelled "B")...

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2020, 03:06:32 am
content: I really like your layout of the digits (it certainly looks better and more original). Using the pcb router to make the slots might be cheaper than using a laser cutter on a metal overlay. The thin pcb material would work great under the router. I think that frosted mylar film would make a good diffuser between the two pcbs. I have a 50 yard roll of the stuff. I can send you some to try out It would just depend on the temperature of the display. BTW, I did not manage to repair the black splotches on the old display. I tried adding a new polarized sheet with shiny mylar backing, but the splotches were still there. bummer. Looks like you have things going in the right direction, so I will hang tight to see what you finally come up with. Dale

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2020, 05:42:22 am
content: hey thanks! and thanks for the offer of mylar... that may actually come in pretty handy. how tall were the digits in your original draft?i was thinking about the round cutting bits the pcb manufacturers use, and depending on the minimum diameter they can do i might be able to approximate a more 7-segment like look, kindof like what i highlighted in the green box below:...but i really have to stop screwing around nit-picking the final details and get going. i have to put together the test rig, order some varous led types/sizes, figure out how to draw the solder trace board and it's cut-out mask on kicad, and then order some to mess with

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2020, 01:48:39 pm
content: I like your latest, but there may be issues of cost due to bit breakage or LED bleed-thru between segments due to close spacing. I think your previous design will reduce both issues and make the layout less expensive at the fab. The bleed-thru issue was on my mind when I did the first layout like Dmitri's, even though it didn't look very nice. If the reverse-mounted LEDs can be used in a slot the same shape as the overlay pcb, the bleed-thru could be eliminated and you could use your latest design. I think the smallest feasible router bit is 0.5mm. The mylar diffuser should work great to distribute the LED light within a segment.

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2020, 02:15:08 pm
content: Oh, I forgot. I'll send you a processor board to use with your test stand. I have a parts unit donor. Just contact me privately at joe(dot)dale(dot)hardin at gmail.

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2020, 05:46:50 pm
content: Cool, 0.5mm min... thanks. And no worries on the processor... I've since collected more parts units too (I just counted and I have *gasp* 10 8060s, and an apparent hoarding problem!) You should keep yours for when we get a decent display goingYou're absolutely right about bleed-through, and I think my latest had the segments too close for even just the physical integrity of the board. I think bleed-through can be managed by either ordering the board with the segment slots plated through, or by painting the insides of the slots black. Plating seems easier if I can get it right in kicad!Bleed-through is also why I didn't want to use a 3rd pcb with no copper as the top diffuser layer... bleeding was terrible in the Hackaday post where I saw this whole sandwich idea. It seemed that the light gets into the core and just spreads right through the to the other segments.Here's a sketch of the overall concept:and then a grab from the hackaday post showing only the two layers I want to use:

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2020, 06:29:02 pm
content: I was thinking about placing the mylar between the two pcbs. If it works, it will be easier than other methods. However, you would have to glue the sandwich together rather than solder. I just looked at Kingbright and the 0603 LEDs are 1.6X0.8mm. Thats only 0.02mm room for placing the part under the 1mm x ? routed segment. Can a pick machine do that? I would assume so. But, I don't know if I could hand place that close for prototypes.

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2020, 11:02:44 pm
content: ha, i bet i can't hand-solder those either... but maybe with a lot of practicethe hackaday display used 0802 leds... i'm thinking they might be right-angle (side display) ones that he just rotated and soldered upright? i sent him a message to see if he remembered the part number.i think the ones Dmitri used are SMD-2 3.5x2.8mm, which are too wide for the "slotted" design approach - but here's the picture he sent me anyway:check out Dmitri's photo showing the overall thickness of his display and how it fits into the 8060:

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2020, 12:26:58 am
content: How about overlaying your two layer pcb sandwich with a thin frosted glass? That would almost look like the original monochrome display. So you would have two pcbs, thin frosted glass (or my favorite mylar) and the original clear plastic protective lens. If that is too thick, maybe the second pcb layer with the cutouts can be thinner. Some of the nano smt LEDs have different heights. The trick is to get the sandwich the right thickness. I'll have to get out my micrometer tomorrow and start looking at options. There's not much room to work with.

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2020, 12:30:55 am
content: Here are the pcb thicknesses available from JLCPCB:0.4 mm0.6 mm0.8 mm1.0 mm1.2 mm1.6 mm2.0 mm

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2020, 06:26:11 pm
content: I didn't realize jlcpcb had that many options... that's good because I measured from the top of the perspex to the bottom of the lcd glass on two meters and got surprisingly different results... 4.14mm for one and 4.7mm for the other!I like the glass/mylar top idea... I was originally thinking if the diffuser filling in the spacer board looked good we could just use a super thin clear plastic, but glass or mylar will probably look better. Not sure if the original perspex is going to fit... it is THICK

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2020, 07:47:54 pm
content: I ordered 15 different kinds of LEDs from mouser so when they arrive I can start fiddling with them to see which ones look the best. I ordered devices with the highest mcd I could find at 2mA and a viewing angle over 100 degrees. The red/orange have Vf around 1.9v while the green/blue are 2.6-2.8.I also scoped out the LCD pins and here are the basics: The waveforms range from 0 to about -3.2v. The segment waveform is a 156hz square wave, and the H1/H2 are stepped and out of phase with each other. When H1 or H2 and the segment waveform have a 3.2v difference (this will be for half of the H1/H2 cycle), that segment is ON. The other half of the cycle has a difference of 1.3/1.8v and the segment is OFF.The H1/H2 signal looks like this (showing H1 in pink):Here are some shots probing the "Rel" segment, which according to the schematic is controlled by pin 3 and pin 1 (H1) on the LCD pads. I set the meter to ohms, so it will display "OL" with "Rel" initially OFF. The H1 signal is pink, Rel is blue...Here's a shot of H1/Rel(pin3) signals with Rel OFF:Here's a shot of H1/Rel signals with Rel ON:the other segment controlled by Pin 3 is the Audible indicator, driven by H2 (yellow)... You can see below that the H2/Pin3 signals are never 3.2 volts apart so the segment is always OFF:**edit: I always mess up the image order!

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2020, 06:26:06 pm
content: Dale, here are those photos of the lcd pulled from a parts meter...First is just the glass (it looks clear-ish but I suck with the camera... I could see more detail through the lens that didn't show up in the photo):Second has the polarizer and you can really see where the liquid went nuts:Last is a decent shot showing the segment trace connections on the glass:

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2020, 05:12:29 am
content: Dale here's some pics of the lcd I sent off to you...I peeled off the sunburned back polarizer and the glass was pretty clean so I put some paper, tin-foil (front/back) etc. behind it - the two photos using the dull side of the foil looked the best, but I needed something stiff behind it to smooth out the foil and keep it from flopping down.Anyway, I think you'll be able to make it look great with the mylar, and I'm looking forward to seeing one of your meters back in action! The others will have to wait til the LED display is prototyped. I did just receive my box of LEDs from Mouser, so I've got some testing to do...

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2020, 01:18:19 pm
content: Thanks. That display should get one working. I just received caps enough for two. The third will be a parts unit because the board is not in good shape. In the meantime, I replaced batteries in a 8050A "parts only" unit I got off ebay. Works fine now, except it is slow to settle down. I got caps for it also. When I finish, I will clean, clean, clean to help it to zero out. If I get the 8050A working fine, I may do an oled display replacement to make it good for another 30 years. Could you send me your latest schematic for the 8060A LED display? I want to use it to learn kicad. Thanks, Dale

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2020, 05:50:01 am
content: Here's the schematic I did... it's not right so I wouldn't build a board based on it, but it's certainly good enough to mess around with Kicad.

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2020, 01:34:59 pm
content: I was hoping you had corrected it. I read the other poster's comments, but really didn't try to understand what the problem was. I'm going to have to set hobby projects aside for a few months. I have some "honey-doos" to get done and some traveling to do this spring. I'll still be around online. Dale

author: JdaleH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2020, 08:27:47 pm
content: I got the display. It will be a few weeks before I can try it out. I want to recap the board first. Thanks so much, Dale

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2020, 09:16:46 pm
content: Oh that's great! Can't wait to see it back up and runningI still haven't soldered up a new test board yet, there hasn't been much time for tinkering lately but I hope to get some minutes to try out my new pile of smd leds

author: ogdento
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2020, 06:02:31 pm
content: Hey Dale did you ever get that display going? I still haven't done a kicad layout for the board... lots of distractions!