Recommended 3D printer for printing knobs & buttons etc.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2021, 04:54:31 pm
content: I just had an "elephant in the room" moment, or maybe better said an epiphany, and realized I should get into the game of printing my own "missing knobs," as I'm doing quite a good amount of restorations of all kinds.So, a huge new world for me, that I can barely begin to attempt to wrap my mind around... Have no idea what's there.So:what type of 3D printer am I even looking for? Resin, etc. For instance, my first project may be these small buttons for an HP 3582A. What's an appropriate "ink" for this?everything else I need to know, please, every single thing: lay it on me!Thank you all!

author: byte
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2021, 05:36:31 pm
content: I've done a lot of 3d printing in the past couple of decades (I even ran a 3d printing firm with Stratasys FDM machines before all the hobby-grade printing took off)... so I hope I can help you with this one.If you are new to 3d printing, I suggest starting with fused filament fabrication (reprap/makerbot & clones etc.). But beware that no 3D printing technology is simple point and click. And FFF can be very finicky especially if you get a cheapo machine (<$300 IMHO). DLP resin sounds easier, but in practice it's can be very messy and print failures still happen - and IMHO a good starting entry price for resin is much higher.However, if you want the best surface finish, then resin may be the way to go for you. But FFF can do fairly good print surfaces depending on your needs and expectations. The nice thing about FFF is that there are way more print materials and upgrade options for the printers. For example, you can get tiny 0.1mm nozzles for finer details/smoother finish, and for another print swap it out for 1.0mm to print larger/faster parts. That's why I suggest FFF to start, because if you don't yet know what you want to do, FFF gives you the most flexibility.If you do get a FFF machine, make sure it has a rigid frame. You don't have to have a heated enclosure, but IMHO avoid the open frame and cantilever systems (unless you need to print large parts). The reason is that the stiffness of the frame makes a big difference in part quality - ringing in the belts and sympathetic vibrations in the frame will cause the print head to print less accurately. My first "hobby grade" 3d printer was a Qidi Tech X One 2 that I bought for around $300-$400 several years ago. I was very happy with that machine for what it could do, (and this is coming from my experience with high-end Stratasys machines).If you are unfamiliar with the type of parts that come out of these processes or the type of materials used, I suggest going to one of the online 3d print houses (there are many affordable ones out there) to get sample parts before you spend money on a printer or materials.Last suggestion: Just keep realistic expectations with 3d printing. At least at first, you'll be spending way more time tuning any kind of setup you get, and tweaking your design in CAD, than actually printing useable parts.Edit: Grammar

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2021, 06:48:13 pm
content: byte - thank you for the detailed input.Just from a pricing standpoint, it seems the resin printers seem to be a gateway of sorts... Not sure about later - I can't yet imagine how useful this can be for all sorts of projects - but, again, in immediate term printing knobs and buttons seems to be the use for me.For instance, I have this HP 3582A which is in excellent shape (including 2015 calibration sticker) but is missing all 5040-8832 buttons (I enclose some pics harvested online and a snip from the service manual). I have no idea which printer would do a good job at this, but from all my preliminary research.... resin?Thanks again!

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2021, 06:57:53 pm
content: A couple of my friends have been playing with filament based 3D printers for several years now. So far I have not been all that impressed, they have their uses but mostly they seem to be good for printing trinkets for their kids and quick prototype stuff. I've never seen output that I would consider good enough to replace a missing knob, they're always a bit sloppy and the surface finish is not great. A resin based printer might do an acceptable job once you get it all dialed in. The guys I know spend more time tinkering and tweaking the process than producing useful parts.

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2021, 06:59:00 pm
content: ...as I research this, may come back here with questions. For instance, some seem to use "ABS plastic," which sounds to me like a particularly good fit for what I'm looking for. But I'm not yet sure if that's even different from a "resin using printer," and what exact type the one able to plot "ABS plastic objects" would be.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2021, 08:10:03 pm
content: I bought a Creality CR-10 Mini a few years back and have no regrets. I'm always finding similar uses for it. Small parts and even a new bottom to replace a rusted one on my coffee maker. I just broke the front flip feet off my Rigol scope and printed new ones. There are always going to be small ridges between each layer. So, having smooth buttons like you show for your scope is not possible unless you sand them smooth.Printing in ABS is very hard. It takes high temperature and usually an enclosure. You will most likely start with PLA or PETG and maybe theCreality Ender 3 Pro. PETG prints at a higher temperature for those heat sensitive applications (240oC for PETG vs 205oC for PLA). There is a small learning curve but mostly it takesattention to detailwhen assembling and calibrating the printer.Here's some small parts I've made (Directly from the printer. No cleanup):and a CAD image of the scope feet:Edit: Also for the flexible/soft filaments, you would probably need a direct drive instead of bodwen tube extruder.

author: hagster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2021, 08:29:50 pm
content: You could just use shapeways/materialise or other 3d print bureau to produce the parts for you with SLA. If you are only making small numbers it will likely be much cheaper. If you design a set of buttons on a sprue so it's effectively a single part, it would be even cheaper.Owning your own 3D printer is still cool though and great for rapid design iteration.

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2021, 09:22:52 pm
content: Quote from: hagster on December 25, 2021, 08:29:50 pmI think my own printer is probably the better route right now, as I expect lots of mistakes as I'm learning this, and also the speed of return w/ no shipping costs is an important factor. I am facing a bit of free/hobby time while shipping will be relatively slow with all the days off (these two last aspects are quite antagonistic), so... I am considering an affordable printer for small plastic parts such as button, caps and knobs. I just don't know what I'm looking for.

author: Le_Bassiste
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2021, 09:46:02 pm
content: if you have the design file (either done by yourself, which i would assume here, or done by somebody else), you can throw it at whatever production house or your own slicer-printer combo to get the best possible result. then, there's the question of color matching, which isn't easy to come by by simply "glossing it over", as most paints are simply not up to the wear of daily usage. taking your printed master sample and making a cast with duplicating silicone and pigmented resin may probably get you a close to perfect match to the original item then. also, would require surface finishing just on the master, rather than on all the copies individually, giving a much more uniform appearance.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2021, 10:27:58 pm
content: You might like this:At least pay attention to key features he describes.

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2021, 11:09:44 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on December 25, 2021, 10:27:58 pmI've been focusing on the LD-002R, mostly for the compact form and - pretty important - the encapsulation is has. Doing this in the house, would like to keep fumes etc. to a minimum.But would love to hear any thoughts on the model above.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 12:35:54 am
content: I would be cautious about getting something too small. My CR-10 Mini has a bed size of approx 8"x10" (220 x 300 mm to be exact) and there have been a couple occasions where it is a little small. You will find all kinds of uses for it after a while. The smallest print I've done are clips for the bowden tube fittings (appox. 3/8" diameter and 1/16" thick).As for fumes, that depends on the filament type and not the printer size. Printing in PLA and PETG, I have not noticed any fumes even after 10 to 15 hour prints. I have mine in a small bedroom. ABS and some others are a different issue._______________________I just looked a little closer at the printer you mentioned. A resin printer is a totally different animal than what I have and shown above. You are really limited in print size and flexibility IMHO.

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 01:19:40 am
content: Quote from: MarkF on December 26, 2021, 12:35:54 amI guess my immediate use for this is very small stuff. That said, it is more critical I can produce knobs and buttons that are at least fairly good for displaying on the face of a unit. So questions I have:Is resin always translucid?Which printers can do ABS? (assuming ABS is a particularly good fit for my needs)I am planning a trip to Microcenter tomorrow and will likely grab what y'all will advise me is best for my current purposes. To think I could hit the jackpot and figure my need for this 6-12 or 24 months out would be great, but really, very wishful I think.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 01:47:40 am
content: Quote from: Rax on December 26, 2021, 01:19:40 amYou have a BIG BIG choice to make then.Resin printers and PLA/PETG/ABS printers are NOT interchangeable. Not even close.____________________I have not used a resin printer. It looks like you are limited to very small parts and can possibly achieve very smooth surfaces. It looks like the printers form the part inside a tray filled with resin???____________________3D filament printers will have problems with very small parts. But with fine layer heights, the prints will have a little texture to them. They will not be smooth as glass. Not without sanding and polishing. IMHO, they would be more flexible. A printer to do ABS melts the filament an squeezes it out of a nozzle onto a flat (glass in my case) bed. Like piping icing on top of a cake.An example roll of filament:

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 02:04:02 am
content: This is the smallest thing I've printed (about 3/8" diameter).

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 02:10:16 am
content: I've done a lot of very small prints with my Ender Pro for my model railroad. It's amazing how small you can get if you set up the printer correctly. Shown are propane tanks and a ladder side-by-side with one you have to pay for.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 02:11:11 am
content: Filament comparison:https://stampomatica.com/pla-vs-abs-vs-petg-vs-tpu/

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 02:22:20 am
content: +1 that you need to clearly discern and understand the broads types of printer:SLA/DLP ("resin") printing -- using a projector/laser to solidify photosensitive liquid resinFDM printing -- (the most common cheap hobbyist one, i.e., the default if no particular technology is mentioned) - melting a reel of PLA/PETG/ABS and squirting it out onto a build plate(and more than aren't really suitable for home use (SLS etc))Quote from: Rax on December 26, 2021, 01:19:40 amResin is not always translucent; but the marketing for such printers often showcase their translucent resins because that is, after all, one of the unique capabilities of resin printers (specifically, resin printers can print truly solid parts rather than the rough/air-pocket-filled interiors of FDM parts). If you prefer strength over translucency, there's a (generally grey) resin for that. Here's a bunch of example resins:https://formlabs.com/asia/materials/. IMHO, you want to choose resin based on structural properties, not colour.It's worth noting that switching between resins is a messy and wasteful process in SLA (resin) printing, and resin is expensive, so you'd be much better off choosing one resin and using paint to set colour.Quote from: Rax on December 26, 2021, 01:19:40 amPretty much any FDM printer, right? (I'm more familiar with resin than FDM so this is just an assumption on my part.)Basically, SLA will give you an outstanding finish in a colour that you don't have much choice in. Probably more expensive than FDM.Whereas FDM will give you a terrible-to-maybe-passable finish in a colour that you do want.Whether you're happy with one of those compromises, or would want to paint the SLA resin part for colour, or want to sand and/or paint the FDM part to improve its finish, depends on whether you want your restorations to be just functional or like, indistinguishable from the original.

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 02:56:54 am
content: I have both resin and FDM printers.I use the one that best suits the application at the time.For your HP buttons I personally would choose resin because they are so small and the desired finish and clearances will be achievable.That said, I have an AnyCubic Photon Mono X, which has a 4K resolution. This can achieve very good detail and smooth surfaces.Regarding resins: I only stock clear and solid white. I can colour the resins with inks and pigments that are designed for use with resin. However, as @rs20 says, changing colours is a messy and wasteful process.I have had great success painting the parts with an airbrush and enamel paints, the type you would find at a model hobby shop.Further to what others have said about FDM: You can get pretty good results on small items if you have your machine set up correctly.I mainly use my FDM printers for bigger items such as electronics project enclosures.After much research I chose the AnyCubic brand as the reviews were good and especially mentioned the structural rigidity of the frames. The FDM frames are very rigid indeed.I typically use the FDM printers with PLA, PETG and ABS. ABS is very smelly. The picture below shows my homemade fume cupboard so that I can print with ABS. Two of the sliding front doors removed for the photo.

author: Karl_S
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 03:40:39 am
content: I've been using a RepRap printer for years.First thought it was more of a teenager's toy than actual tool,....but boy, was I wrong. I've been printing hundreds of items over the years and in fact had to replace the linear bearings on it due to all the use it had. Also added various parts at the beginning like a able chain, filament guide, casing for power supply,.....just to suit my needs and they way I use it.As others have mentioned already, the initial setup, configuration and learning how to use a suitable CAD program is the most time consuming part. Once you get the hang of it you can create and print objects in a reasonable short time.I like also the options of all type of different plastic / filament types as this allows you use appropriate material for job. I.e. PLA can be used for items getting in contact with food, whilst ABS is much more tolerant to acids and alkaline solutions. And of course if producing any items for outdoor use those should be done with a material that is UV stabilised.From experience my recommendation would be the get a 3D printer with auto bed-levelling function as this reduces manual setup time. Other than that entirely up to you and your desired projects.

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 11:14:28 am
content: Quote from: Rax on December 25, 2021, 04:54:31 pmYou should add some Fluke 8500 series module guides.

author: byte
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 01:14:45 pm
content: Quote from: Rax on December 26, 2021, 01:19:40 amResin is not always translucent, but not all resin printers can print in all types of resin. One thing about resin too, is because it's UV cured, it's not always UV stable. Meaning some resins will discolor over time or even degrade in full sunlight.I don't recommend ABS at all. It's a pain to work with, has noxious fumes, and there are other plastics that perform just as well. For knobs on test gear, PLA will be just fine. PLA softens at low temps, so you wouldn't want to use PLA for knobs on a car stereo for example. But indoor equipment shouldn't be any issue. After PLA, I would go with PETG - it's a bit harder to print with (but still easier than ABS), and has great mechanical properties (but won't be a noticeable difference for knobs.)It's just my 2 cents, but I've printed plenty of tiny knobs (5-10mm in diameter) with FFF containing tactile indentations and markers and unless you look at it closely you wouldn't tell much of a difference. So while yes, may people's FFF prints come out poorly, it's all about the machine, the tuning, the materials, and setup/slicing.Someone else mentioned color matching, and that's a great point too. It's going to be near impossible to match the color, so you may want to consider 3d printing all the knobs and do a complete knob replacement if color is important to you.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 02:04:57 pm
content: Quote from: james_s on December 25, 2021, 06:57:53 pmWell ... I had to come back to your post james_s. I don't know the guys you know but they sure aren't using the filament 3D printers the way I and others are using them. Which is to make things I need for real projects.As you can see in the pics, I use mine all the time to make useful parts and tools. All the tools on the desk are useful and are not "trinkets" or "prototypes". They are useful tools. Yes there really is a 3D printed torque wrench there and it's pretty damn close to what it's supposed to be (1.5 Nm).In the garage I have many 3D printed tools for woodworking. You can see several templates I use for marking up wood for birdhouses and for assembly. I made my own design in Fusion 360 and printed a very strong miter gauge fence to make life easier on the table saw. It's extremely strong and plenty accurate.And yet another design for the ends of dipole antennas. I printed them in PLA just to see how long they would last outside (as a test). However, they have been under stress for 3 years in the rain, sun (UV), and winds and show no signs of failing, so I just left them up!So 3D filament printing is not just for trinkets and quick prototype stuff as you stated.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 02:38:17 pm
content: To follow xrunner's coments, I too primarily print useful parts. Some replacements for broken items and some new items for the electronics workbench. See CAD drawings of some which I've printed (They are shy and don't like their picture taken). In addition, I've made several webcam mounts and various knobs and a printer base to reduce noise for my CR-10 Mini.All were designed withFreeCAD.The only toys I've actually made are the cat and dog I've shown here earlier.Edit: Added picture of my CR-10 Mini

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2021, 06:45:11 pm
content: Thank you all, great stuff in your insights.The more I read, ponder on your thoughts and look at options, the more I lean on the filament route. Or, I should say, at this point resin/filament is about a 50/50.I am not crazy about perfect color matching (there's a range of colors on the buttons of the HP 3582A, and as I'm missing all of those of that type, I think a color that's a bit off would only be remarked by someone very familiar with this particular unit), not for very smooth surface. I think I'd be more cranky about peeling paint than I'd be about a solid but a little "textury" surface. So that's why filament is gaining ground in my calculations.Also, less mess and more material options, plus a wider range of applications are also other pretty big pluses.Thanks a bunch to y'all! Please keep on posting here, I'm sure there's tons of other newbies like me reading this with huge interest.

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 27, 2021, 12:07:26 am
content: I love my CR10 V2.Starting out was a very very long learning curve for me.By the way, there is a forum section dedicated to 3D printinghttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/3d-printing/

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2021, 12:09:56 am
content: I'm also interested in knowing more about 3D printing. I need some precision (+/- .002" or so) parts made in a no larger that 2" dimension, My experience of the 3D printed stuff has been not too close tolerance and kind of rubbery material. The reports above suggest much better is possible. Ideally they would be machined from Delrin but that would cost me as much as a 3D printer. These would be adapters for microphones for acoustic calibration like the one below.

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 27, 2021, 12:37:28 am
content: Quote from: 1audio on December 27, 2021, 12:09:56 amYou likely will be able to achieve your desired precision with a resin printer, however I doubt FDM would get close enough.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2021, 01:29:14 am
content: Quote from: 1audio on December 27, 2021, 12:09:56 amI don't know if +/- .002" is achievable or not. It would take some time to calibrate and tune your printer. Even then, you would probably need to print several prints and adjust the scaling. The scaling changes a little with filament types. From the work I've done on my printer trying to match exact sizes, it would be worth a try.Is Delrin a soft material? What are you looking for?PLA is a hard plastic after printing and tends to crack instead of flexing. There are a range of material you can print from very soft like those rubber iPhone cases to carbon fiber material.Check this video showing the process to get desired dimensions:Edit:Just took some measurements of the scope feet I made not long ago. Printed in PLA.Designed to 0.8" x 0.2" and they came out at 0.808" width x 0.19" height without really trying.So, it appears to me that you could probably meet your tolerances.

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2021, 02:53:16 am
content: Maybe a little oversize and then apply sandpaper? How well do these handle 'rework"? Delrin is like a stiffer nylon and more stable. Its pretty expensive as plastic sheet or block. it machines pretty well I'm told.For a simple part like above which software will get me an STL file with the least learning curve that works?Maybe I should move this to the 3D discussions?

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2021, 12:40:28 pm
content: IMHO, all CAD programs have a pretty steep learning curve.To list some CAD programs (in no particular order):FreeCAD, Fusion 360, Solidworks and Alibre CADI believe you can get a free version of Fusion 360 and of course FreeCAD is free.The rest require a license.I have been using FreeCAD but you will need to learn how to work around its limitations. I mostly do all my draw in the 'Part Workbench'. For some reason the 'Part Workbench' doesn't play well with the others (see below).I foundJoko Engineeringhelpyoutube videos to be very helpful.- A comparison of FreeCAD and Fusion 360- An example of Alibre CAD- And a starter for FreeCAD- FreeCAD workbenches

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2021, 12:56:38 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on December 27, 2021, 12:40:28 pmYes you can if you are a hobbyist. It took me a long time to get as proficient as I am now (which isn't saying that much), but I've been able to make most of the things I want. The program is very intimidating at first and I found most of the tutorials started off way too fast without explaining the very basic process. Before that I was using Tinkercad which uses 3D objects from the git-go. So I had to un-train my brain and re-train it. But once you "get it" you are set. Same for any CAD application I suppose.

author: dl6lr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2021, 01:56:20 pm
content: Quote from: Mr.B on December 26, 2021, 02:56:54 amI made a design for the HP button and printed it fine on a cheapo FDM printer in PLA. The finish is acceptable, it is a very usable part.Seehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/msg3823214/#msg3823214Bernd

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2021, 02:16:20 am
content: Quote from: m k on December 26, 2021, 11:14:28 amHa! Coming right up, m k!...

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2021, 02:18:13 am
content: Quote from: dl6lr on December 27, 2021, 01:56:20 pm

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2021, 05:20:22 am
content: My first printed button!!! Glorious, I'm sure everyone can see that.

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2021, 05:25:55 am
content: ...and the whole platoon supplied. They even snap on the shaft and stay put.Disregard the color, I can always use my Microcenter coupon to grab a spool of "military khaki" filament for a better color match. Anyone figured where HP's color palette originated back in the '60s, '70s, '80?...

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2021, 05:34:02 am
content: one pic fell off

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2021, 11:16:01 am
content: I actually like the blue.Good job!

author: dl6lr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2021, 11:35:43 am
content: Quote from: Rax on December 28, 2021, 05:20:22 amMay I ask what printer did you buy and use?

author: rpiloverbd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2021, 12:42:59 pm
content: Creality3D PrinterCR-10S

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2021, 02:03:41 pm
content: Quote from: dl6lr on December 28, 2021, 11:35:43 amIt's an Ender 3 Pro. I'm pretty happy with what it does, and the learning has not been very steep.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2021, 08:11:36 pm
content: A few quick tips:1) you might want to pick up some Capricorn tubing, which is more heat tolerant, and a few extra nozzles.https://www.amazon.com/Capricorn-Friction-Compatible-Printer-Filament/dp/B07V46S7L3/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1ZA0471R5TUCQ&keywords=capricorn+tube+1.75&qid=1640720132&sprefix=capcorn+tube%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-42) you also may want to check the stepper motors calibration for all axis and the extruder. Mine were slightly off. The values can be adjusted from the panel.3) i made a few cosmetic changes to Marlin's display (Name, extruder shape, fan animation and current layer display instead of elapsed time). They are for an older version of Marlin (I'm unable to run the lastest). However, some are easy changes to the software.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/embedded-computing/show-layer-number-while-printing-on-creality-cr-10/msg3294466/#msg3294466

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2021, 10:15:24 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on December 28, 2021, 08:11:36 pmThank you very much, MarkF. I'm slowly (but steadily) getting into tinker and tweak mode with this thing, as I get the hang of the basics.So you edited the code on the firmware as per link? That's pretty cool (would it work on an Ender 3 Pro?...). I wonder if adding the "currently printing" file name would be possible. This is to me this far the biggest misgiving to the firmware, as particularly if I am printing a set of models it'd be very useful to know the name of the currently printing one. I'm about to add wireless to the printer this afternoon, and I'm curious if that adds some such functionality.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2021, 12:42:48 pm
content: Quote from: Rax on December 29, 2021, 10:15:24 pmMy changes are to version 1.1.9.1 of Marlin. This is the newest version of Marlin that I can fit into the Sanguino board in my CR10 Mini. The latest version ofMarlin is 2.0.9.3. I'm not sure what board is in your Ender 3. I would run the latest version possible.Be aware, the Marlin software was totally re-organized starting with version 2. Also, you can NOT build the source code with the Arduino IDE. It's a lot of work to setup the 'Visual Studio Code' development environment in order to make changes. Something I would do if I decide to upgrade the processor board in my CR10.In reference to displaying the filename being printed. The bottom line on the display already does that (at least in the old Marlin). You do have to wait until the extruder and bed are up to temperature and the print has started.Marlin version 1.1.9.1

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2021, 01:03:39 pm
content: Using OctoPi to add wireless capability to your 3D printer...I'm running OctoPi on a Raspberry PI 3B+ but still use the MicoSD card for all my prints. Although printing via the network with OctoPi works, you need a very stable network to do it. The last thing you want is a network crash near the end of a 20 hour print. I really only use OctoPi now as a webcam that I can check on a print even if I'm away from home.Here is some help setting up OctoPi if you need it.Text instructions:Code:Tools needed:Win32 Disk Imager from https://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/PuTTY from https://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/latest.htmlImages needed:Download OctoPi from https://octoprint.org/download/Procedure:- Copy image to MicroSD card- Open MicroSD card- Edit "octopi-wpa-supplicant.txt"Uncomment WPA/WPA2 network section and enter WiFi SSID and PSKUncomment the country Pi is in- Edit "octopi.txt" - Uncomment and set camera options:camera_usb_options="-r 1280x720 -f 10"camera_raspi_options="-fps 10"- Insert card into Raspberry Pi and power up- Open PuTTY and access Pi: "octopi.local"- Login: username="pi" password="raspberry""- Change configuration: sudo raspi-configExpand file systemChange user passwordAdvanced options >> Hostname- RebootChange camera resolution:- Open PuTTY and access Pi: "octopi.local"- Login: username="pi" password="raspberry""- Change directory: cd /root/bin- Edit "webcamd" file: sudo nano webcamd- Change Init Config section:camera_usb_options="-r 1280x720 -f 10"camera_raspi_options="-fps 10"CTRL-OCTRL-X- RebootGet processor temperature:- Open PuTTY and access Pi: "octopi.local"- Login: username="pi" password="raspberry""- watch cat /sys/class/thermal/thermal_zone0/tempAccess OctoPrint from web browser: http://octopi.local or http://hostname.local if hostname was changedALWAYS POWER DOWN RASPBERRY PI VIA OCTOPRINT (Top right system menu)

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2021, 02:18:15 pm
content: I just compiled 2.0.9.3 yesterday (using VS Code) in preparation for installing it on my Ender w/BTT SKR mini E3 v1.2. I usually update Marlin each time they come out with a new version, just to keep my skills up and the config files current. Usually goes down OK but you never know.Speaking of 3D printing knobs and buttons ... I may have something to show here in the next week or so. I'm restoring a Boonton Model 42A power meter. It's missing the last black button as you can see in the pic. It actually looks like two buttons are missing but the switch next to the red power isn't used at all.If I have anything decent to show I'll report it - if not - forget I said anything ...

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2021, 12:39:12 am
content: How to build and install the latest version of Marlin withVS Code:

author: Rax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2021, 03:59:07 am
content: Great stuff, thank you both very much.I am very happy with how those HP buttons (HP part #5040-8832) came out - I am unsure if the end of the button is exactly as the original, though a similar button designed by someone else I printed (which doesn't fit anywhere close to how this one does) makes me think it's really close. The fact they fit so well on the switch stub, which they lock on with a distinct click, and also inside the opening is really satisfying. Not to mention they are fully functional. Surely, beginner's luck, but I printed 4 or 5 and tweaked in between before arriving to this exact model.So I wonder if there's a library with such things.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2021, 01:29:35 pm
content: Thingiverseis most likely the place to go for models.

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2021, 02:47:59 pm
content: i have both filament and resin and would definitely suggest the filament. you always can do a new surface finish to the printed parts.. little sanding, then little body filler, little sanding again.. spray with rattle-can paint and it's like a bought one !

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2021, 03:40:53 pm
content: Does anyone here have the program to print knobs for the H.P / Aligent 339A Distortion Analyzer ? Mine is missing the knob that I temporarily replaced with a black older H.P knob and is pointed to in the 4th photo. My friend has 3 3D printers and will print one up for me IF I can find the file. Even better is that I would gladly be willing to purchase an original if someone has a parted out unit. Thanks in advance !

author: PaulAm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2021, 04:32:24 pm
content: There's a thread around somewhere on making skirted knob replacements. You can print the skirt on transparent plastic sheets and laminate it to get some reasonable rigidity. Then just glue it to the knob part.Most of those knobs had brass inserts that held the threads for the set screws. I don't think PLA or even ABS would hold up very well with a set screw. Probably strip right out when you tried to tighten it. You could always make the center hole big enough and glue in an insert of course.

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2021, 06:01:48 pm
content: It is easy enough to draw up a similar shaped knob. Maybe even create two pieces so that the ring could be stenciled or labeled and glued together. However, even the transparent filament is not clear but comes out frosted.Here is a quick knob but I don't know the dimensions and assumed a slotted shaft:

author: Martin Miranda
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2021, 08:55:57 pm
content: i just finished printing some replacement knobs for my tds2002 oscilloscope.- anycubic proton slicerhttps://www.anycubic.com/collections/anycubic-photon-3d-printers/products/anycubic-photon-3d-printer

author: Martin Miranda
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2021, 08:58:55 pm
content: autodesk inventor (cad), proton workshop (slicing)

author: Martin Miranda
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2021, 09:04:22 pm
content: Quote from: Paceguy on December 31, 2021, 03:40:53 pmclear acrylic is a good replacement, both cutting and etch can be made using a laser cutter.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2021, 10:01:39 pm
content: Made progress on the Boonton power meter button. Got the initial shell done in Fusion 360. Also experimented with the fitment of a test piece on the switch shaft. Strangely the shafts are not centered in the bezel openings but that's the way it's been made. I may not make the inside of the button like the original because I think it's overly complicated. As long as it fits the same yet removable it makes no difference. I'm using the last of a roll of lime green to experiment with (no I'm not colorblind).

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2021, 10:26:10 pm
content: There is a sticky in the Test Equipment topic with models for knobs, feet and other related stuff. As mentioned before thingiverse is a good source. I usually try those two sources first, then google either 3d Model or .stl with the part number of the knob I'm looking for. If none of those work its off to FreeCAD for a new model. Micrometers, calipers, hole guages and range of other measurement tools make the modeling process go better.My Ender 3 has not had stepper motor scaling tweaked since it left the factory and creates parts accurate to a few thousandths over several inches. For almost all parts that is good enough. For the exceptions the same remedies used in conventional manufacturing are available. Reaming, honing, filing and so on.

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2022, 02:42:07 pm
content: Quote from: MarkF on December 30, 2021, 01:03:39 pmhow on earth would a network "crash" affect your print job1. you upload the printjob to OctoPi thourgh web interface2. start the print job3. Octopi feeds the printer with gcode through USB and doesn't give a damn about network anymore.and also how could a network "crash" ?

author: aargee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2022, 07:23:53 pm
content: Yes, with Octopi connected to your printer via USB, once Octopi has the file and started printing, the network is superfluous.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2022, 12:39:26 am
content: Here's the Boonton power meter button I finished. I added the files to the test equipment knob & button thread.