Building another new workshop. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 11, 2016, 09:56:40 pm
content: As some of you may remember, about four years ago I converted a dilapidated old building into a workshop. This building was situated at the end of the garden of my then rented accommodation. Despite the cost of that project, it did save me money overall and I benefited from the use of a workspace.Here is the thread pertaining to that project:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/building-a-new-workshop-lab/So, things have moved on a bit. I have bought a house in the countryside where it is more pleasant and affordable. Apart from boarding out the loft space and erecting a 19" bay to house the router, modem and associated equipment (even in the countryside we are still afforded the luxury of a 76Mb connection), it's time to erect a new workshop.So, let us begin. Even after multiple viewings of the property I could never quite fathom what this erection was supposed to be for? It's north facing, so not a greenhouse surely?I can fathom how this space can be utilised to maximum effect however.It did require dismantling. During which some nasty surprises were uncovered. Nobody likes a dropped neutral, on a ringmain this not particularly desirable. Here I have temporarily re-established the discrepancy with a chocolate connector. That sholud improve the efficiency of my coffee grinder.Don't let's fuss ourselves with fitting none other than a back-box. It's only the downstairs ringmain out in the rain.Anyway, with the help of my brother, the thing is being dismantled to make way for a proper space.The thing is coming apart rather easily.Especially with dumb-ass joints as such:Just two screws and the whole jolly thing falls apart.I should note at this point that I have endeavoured to source every ounce of electrical energy required for this project from the sun. Thus far I have been successful. The eagle eyed amongst you may have noticed a glimpse of a solar panel upon the adjacent structure. That is a 250W module. I have four such modules connected in a 2S2P configuration for the meantime. This configuration is feeding a Midnite charge controller into a 12V 750Ah bank. There is then the old faithful 2KVA Victron inverter beyond the battery bank.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 12, 2016, 07:59:51 am
content: By the end of the day I had pretty much got the thing dismantled.It's a thing of beauty.Right, now it's time for me to get busy and start the ground works.Clearing and levelling. My next door neighbour took the opportunity to replace the fence.Then construct a frame for the concrete pad.Then I dug the footings.After that, the damp proof membrane goes in.There was a delay getting the steel because the courier was totally incompetent. It took them nine days to deliver the steel which was supposed to be "next day".Anyway, it's in and getting ready for concrete.I have also replaced the dodgy electrical outlet with an IP65 box.

author: Towger
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2016, 10:28:41 am
content: That original shed it like something my old man would build, except for the dodgy joints. 2x4 and nails are his preferred method.

author: Messtechniker
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2016, 10:54:44 am
content: How about some foundation insulation?Probably too late now...Helps to keep your feet warm.Yours Messtechniker

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2016, 09:56:10 pm
content: That looks like somebody had the drive, but none of the budget or talent. You have a lot of work ahead of you but your last one turned out pretty darn good so if you can do that with this short of just building a completely separate shed to fit in that space I will be impressed. What kind of dimensions do you have to work in there? Are you concerned about getting a permit or codes or is it small enough to be classified as a shed and nobody will care.Also, what is wrong with nails and 2X4's hahahaha. If used properly they will provide a fine shed or outbuilding. Here in california generally exterior walls are required to be 2X6 with shear covering (OSB or CDX, etc) for earthquake resistance. It actually works quite well. A number of large quakes have come through since those codes were enacted after the early 70's LA quake and those homes generally hold up quite well in earthquakes. Unreinforced masonry is where the danger is. With all the faux brick and stone they have these days stick built homes can be made to look like just about anything.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 13, 2016, 07:43:33 pm
content: Quote from: Messtechniker on October 12, 2016, 10:54:44 amI opted not to insulate the slab due to the way the building will be used. If I was to use it every day then that would have been a good idea. However, it's likely to only get used at weekends of the odd evening. This means I need it to heat up fast, so the heating will be installed above the floor insulation.So, let's proceed with the slab.Everything was now organised, the steel is in, there is four tonnes of aggregate tipped on my driveway and a pallet load of sacks of cement.I decided to buy a little cement mixer rather that hire one because the cost of buying one is the same as hiring one for just one weekend and I have plans to mix more concrete in the future.It was backbreaking work, but it was finally done, nice and level.In the sidelines, my housemate decided to mix some more concrete in order to pour a nice solid pier for his telescope. The boxed section goes a metre down underground, so it's rather stable.Anyway, back to the workshop.I spent a few days keeping the slab wet and then after a week I deemed it fit for use.I decided to bolt the sole plates down with chemical bolts.Sole plates down, now we are ready for the walls.So, due to the unique nature of the site, I had to construct the wall frames and clad them before standing them up, rather awkward, but achievable indeed.Back wall frame complete, ready for Tyvek and cladding.Here is a view of the left side wall being clad. You cab see the back wall with the inside of the Tyvek showing.I should mention at this point that although the aim was to have all of the electrical energy needed for the project to be derived from my 1KW solar array, the only tool that would not work off my inverter was the little nail gun. The iron core of my 2KVA simply doesn't contain enough energy to allow the nailer to strike effectively. I was using 35mm nails and they would only go in about 10mm. So alas, I have to connect to the main electricity supply. The core of the transformer up the road can store a lot more energyI had no problems with the cement mixer (which ran pretty much all day), various saws, SDS drill and charging the impact driver and hand drill.Left wall now erect.This is my timber pile slowly dwindling away.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2016, 08:23:01 pm
content: That comes together nicely. Consider yourself lucky you don't need pilings and can pour concrete strait onto the soil like that. I envy you for being able to do that. Where I live I'd need 15 meter long pilings!

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 13, 2016, 08:56:16 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on October 13, 2016, 08:23:01 pmI am more lucky than you think! I live on a "hill" 12 metres above sea level.Just 3 kilometres down the road from me, in the Fens, it is several metres below sea level. 300 years ago it was all under water. One of your fellow countrymen was called in at the time to direct how the land could be re-claimed.In the Fens, the building techniques are similar to what you describe.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2016, 10:56:52 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on October 13, 2016, 08:23:01 pmare you people living in a swamp?

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2016, 11:03:10 pm
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on October 13, 2016, 10:56:52 pmYes. About half of the Netherlands is a swamp and a few meters below sea level. I'm like Sponge Bob square pants; I live on the bottom of the sea. Only the water has been removed a several decades ago (the late 1960's).

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2016, 11:21:27 pm
content: well we have lot of hard ground here but the land where i live was originally a swamp, sea is just few meters away. but now the land had been filled and compacted by housing developer. i expanded the original house to add living room, kitchen and my lab, single storey only, not double storey, i asked the contractor for no piling as it will quadruple the cost. 3 years now, i sensed the soil is moving down a bit and i believe it settled now, walls cracked but still within my acceptable range. i can rectify them but i will do it later, not much to worry about. i believe for single storey house, piling will not be critical requirement as the soil will stabilized after few years. still, you and i are luckier because we are not on an active fault line, that we have to make house from paper.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2016, 01:55:26 am
content: Good lord, your little "workshop" appears to be better built and designed than the shitty condos I see erupting in Montreal. I know, I live in one...When can I move in? I can feed myself and do my own laundry.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 14, 2016, 10:33:47 pm
content: So I got the front wall with the doorway assembled and erected. I could now employ a more traditional approach to applying the exterior components to this wall.It was at this point that I discovered that the left wall was not quite as square as I'd have liked, probably not a big issue, but I'd rather it not compound some unforeseen circumstance further down the road. I employed a ratchet strap to pull it into square and then braced with some scrap timbers.I then put the top plate on around the perimeter and made a start with laying out the roof trusses.I had to adhere to strict timescales regarding getting the roof watertight before the rain rolled in (reminds me of the last time), so I failed to gather any photographic documentation of the progression of the roof work taking place.Here it is a few days later. It still needs to be trimmed and neatened properly, but just like before, it's a one piece EPDM rubber roof membrane.Here is a view from above on a misty morning.The poor weather was set to continue and an important delivery was scheduled. This delivery needed to be kept in a dry place, so I had a bit of a scramble to keep the weather out of the remaining side.It was a bit of a mad dash with the Tyvek and the staple gun, but this will keep the rain out for the day.Just 30 minutes before the downpour, the delivery arrived.It took me just over 20 minutes, battling against the wind, to get it all safely in a dry place.Due to the excellent performance that I experienced from using PIR insulation boards in my previous build, it wasn't hard for me to decide on using it again. This time I have opted for 75mm thickness on all six surfaces of the building. The thicker offcuts on top are just scraps that the fork truck driver used to set the consignment down on the driveway.With the insulation safe and sound I decided to get back to the outside and finish the wall off as the wind was a bit strong and the Tyvek was protesting a bit.By the end of the day I had the siding on and a temporary scrap door clamped in place.

author: MK14
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2016, 11:08:54 pm
content: How come you know how to build things like that ?If I tried to make something like that, it would look something like this:(BEFORE the slightest wind, rain or if a tiny insect lands on it, and adds extra weight to it. It would then probably collapse).

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2016, 11:18:43 pm
content: Quote from: MK14 on October 14, 2016, 11:08:54 pmYou should apply for a builder's license in Quebec. We couldn't tell the difference!

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2016, 12:09:43 am
content: Quote from: Kibi on October 14, 2016, 10:33:47 pmNot surprising with the way you've had to build it.You'll know for next time to square the walls before standing them and then use some steel strap bracing underneath the Tyvek building wrap.Next thing will be to run the services, prewire and all that.Over here we say it's time to release the termites.Otherwise pretty cool, thanks for sharing.

author: med6753
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2016, 12:39:20 am
content: Very nice build. But I noticed that the roof appears to be totally flat. Wouldn't it be better to have a slight pitch so the rain runoff goes to one side and then perhaps a gutter and downspout to direct the water away from the structure?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2016, 04:39:22 pm
content: Quote from: med6753 on October 15, 2016, 12:39:20 amNot flat but there seems to be a matching slope to the front of all 3 structures, so a front gutter, leading to the plastic water tank there, is a very likely next addition.Nice log structure to the back of the property, is that for the telescope makers stuff or will it be the battery room, workshop adjunct and store, or is Alex and me going to be living in there. I do not build as bad as that Quebec builder, at least the walls are mostly straight.BTW those bricks in the main house wall are very interesting, never seen that pattern before, and as they are all showing this pattern there must have been a specialised grooved roller set on an oscillating shaft at the output of the brick extruder that made them, those are not a moulding in the bricks.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2016, 04:48:11 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on October 15, 2016, 12:09:43 amhere the first day you put that lot of planking down on the ground they would be feasting on the underside before you got the last one laid on top.But, as Kibi is from near me in Africa, he knows all about the amazing efficiency of those little guys, and here they do not build little nests, there are some that have been big enough to make a full sized house out of the mound, without doing much to worry the builders, who still carry on living in the rest of the mound, and who will scavenge any material that you put near the walls quite effectively. My dad had a garage built into one in Ndola, and the hole was a lot smaller than the massive hill it was blasted into.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 16, 2016, 09:38:45 pm
content: The next step is to get all of that insulation cut up and installed. I must have been using one of my finest calculators to work out how many sheets to order because I was left with very little scrap at the end of the job. Unlike the last time where I had two full sheets left over!Here you can see the last of the flooring insulation going down.Then every joint needs to be taped to form a vapour barrier. According to the datasheet, the foil backed insulation provides an effective vapuor barrier provided all of the joints are taped shut with aluminium tape.Now the sub floor can go down.I went with cheap tongue and groove loft flooring boards. They are specified to go on 600mm centres maximum, but my floor joists are on 400mm centres, so there is plenty of support for them.Then a layer of 6mm XPS boards goes down on top of that.On top of that goes a 1KW underfloor heating mat. Once again, being busy, I forgot to take a proper photograph of it, but below you can see it through the doorway.You can also see that I have built and hung the door. It is made up from leftover 2x4 sticks. It will be filled in with the insulation too.Finally, I have put the laminate flooring down.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 19, 2016, 08:18:02 pm
content: So, now it's time to put some workbenches in. The image below shows the wall battens being set out.I have opted for a 1 metre high bench 600mm deep to run all the way along the back wall (the wall that is opposite the door. This bench will be over 3.5 metres long and will accommodate the machine tools.Then I will have a "U" shaped arrangement which will be 600mm deep along the left wall and front wall. Then there will be an"island" returning into the middle of the room which will be 900mm deep and have the test equipment shelves above it. This arrangement allows access to the rear of the test equipment for easy access to the cabling and makes better use of the almost square shape of the building.The worktops will be of 25mm ply wood.Below shows things taking shape.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 21, 2016, 08:20:48 pm
content: Meanwhile, I thought it'd be a good time to bring some power into the workshop.I started with relocating, once again, the inverter, charger, batteries and DC distribution box. This time they are being moved from the log cabin next to the workshop where they took up temporary residence for the summer. As mentioned before, they provided power for the tools (including the lawnmower).More details on how I originally built my solar system can be found here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/solar-powered-workshop-take-two/Here you can see the Victron 2KVA inverter (blue), Midnite Classic 150 charge controller to the left and the DC distribution below them.Above are two AC distribution boards. The right one will house mains circuits. As my current inverter is only 2KVA (on a 12V DC system to boot), it is not suited to tasks such as welding etc, so regular mains circuits will have to suffice until upgrades can be performed. Also, given that my (small) 1KW solar array may not always be able to meet demands in the depths of winter, a circuit shall be routed to the inverter (which can run in charger mode) if times get tough. The AC box on the left will accommodate all of the circuits provided by the inverter.Batteries are situated underneath the 1metre bench.Mains box is now in and the solar sourced AC box is now having cable pulled in to it from around the workshop.Everyone likes a good earth bonding point.After some time and after emitting a few swear words, all of the inverter fed circuits are in. Each of the circuits are protected with their own RCBO.All the electrical equipment is now installed, closed up and ready for installation tests.Here are two individual 16A circuits (presented via Neutrik Powercon connectors). One will be assigned to the MDU which will feed each piece of test equipment on the shelf. The other one is assigned to provide power to the 6-way (or whatever) block on your bench that you plug stuff into that might blow up or cause an earth fault or whatever.This is the beauty of having multiple RCD (RCBO in this case) protected circuits. There is no need to bring the whole place down just because of a single 30mA earth fault.Granted, RCBO's can be expensive, but I got all six of those ones in an eBay job lot for £17.00 delivered! All circuits have been tested and operate within specification.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2016, 07:25:44 pm
content: Very nice, and I agree on the good point of a RCBO being a good investment. Saves you losing power in case of a fault, and also reduced chance of nuisance tripping as mains filter currents add up in the installation.I think your earth bus is too small, only room for 6 circuits, and only 16mm to the ground electrode. Now the wiring to the outlets is the fuse for lightning, not the ground rods.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 23, 2016, 09:49:01 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on October 23, 2016, 07:25:44 pmI have a 25mm wire connecting the earth rod to the copper block. Then the 16mm wire goes from the copper block to the inverter supplied distribution board's own earth terminal block. From there, it's all star circuits over 2.5mm wire.The other 16mm wire connects to the chassis of the inverter.Now, this arrangement needs to altered slightly. The 16mm earth wire from the board needs to connect directly to the chassis of the inverter right where the N-E link is. Then the whole lot can be referenced to ground over one short 16mm wire to the earth bonding block with it's 25mm wire to the rod.At the moment I have effectively extended the N-E link away from it's source, it's a short link and will carry the fault current, but it's not good practice and just another piece in the puzzle. Also, it will take about 45 seconds to put it right.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 23, 2016, 10:16:15 pm
content: Just a quick update.In my attic in the house I have installed a 36U equipment bay which houses the internet modem, router, ethernet switches, servers including security camera and alarm equipment.From the bay in the attic I have pulled through 1x multimode fibre, 2x CAT5E, 1x Belden 2202 and 1x 6 core cables.I have plans for the multimode and the 2202, the others are all spares.I conducted some experiments to find out which of the two switches will use the least amount of electricity since it needs to be on 24/7 and will run from the battery.The little Cisco won the day being less than 10 watts with no clients and has one SFP port, vLAN capability (smart switch) and can supply POE on all 8 ports. Quite a nice set of features for such a small form factor desktop switch. Also, it's fanless.The USRobotics switch was 15 watts with no clients. I don't really need 2 SFP forts and I don't ever envisage using 16 copper ports in the workshop.The Cisco needs a 48V supply, I shall supply it with power via a 12V to 48V DC-DC converter to save having to run the big inverter 24/7.The USRobotics switch will most likely take up residence in the attic when the existing switch (also 16 ports) runs out of ports.

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2016, 04:53:52 pm
content: Nice build and installation Kibi. Interesting for me to see how the electrical installation differs from how it's done here in the US.on the Midnite Classic. I've had 2 of them running for several years now. Excellent CCs. I'll be installing another one for a new system install next year.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 25, 2016, 09:59:53 pm
content: Quote from: mtdoc on October 24, 2016, 04:53:52 pmSure, it's a good controller. It was the ultimate charge controller back when I bought it four years ago. Runs like a champ, sometimes the TCP stack crashes, but no big deal. Are yours also the 150V version?Victron have some really strong contenders for the Classic these days. Their 250V @100A MPPT controller looks like a serious beast.I need to get my Beagle Bone Black (which is running Victron CCGX firmware) to read the values off the Classic over Modbus TCP and have the data sent to Victron's VRM logging website, which is a very nice especially as it's free.I currently have just the battery monitor logging to VRM.

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2016, 10:18:55 pm
content: Quote from: Kibi on October 25, 2016, 09:59:53 pmYeah, I have 2 150s.I still think they're the best CC on the market though I'm not familiar with the Victron's - they're not marketed here in the US. I know they make solid inverters.Yeah, the "Local App" and "My Midnite" network connectivity issues have been a weak spot for the Classics - though it's never impacted the actual core functionality of the controllers. They are rock solid at charge controlling - the network software has just been icing on the cake. Until recently no other manufacturers even attempted it.Are you running the latest firmware? I've heard it resolves some of the network errors, though to be honest it's been sometime since I even worried about that functionality. They just do their job day in and day out and I never pay them much attention which is of course, how it should be.There's lots of networking discussion on the Midnite user forum - including some people using BBB's.I'm really excited about Midnite'snew inverterthat will be available soon. I've got a new install planned for next summer.

author: wasyoungonce
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2016, 10:56:08 pm
content: More importantly...where are pics of the scope?

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 26, 2016, 09:26:16 pm
content: Quote from: wasyoungonce on October 25, 2016, 10:56:08 pmIndeed, we have strayed off topic a bit. Sorry.First of all though, a 'scope needs a bench or shelf on which to sit. So, I have got on with the worktops.I used 25mm plywood for the worktops and rounded the edges over with the router.Then a coat of varnish, and left to dry.These are the shelves for the 900mm deep workspace where the test equipment will go. It's a kind of cantilever arrangement, but I think it maximises the bench space whilst offering shelves of different depths for various bits of kit. The lowest shelf is 300mm deep and the ones above it are 450mm deep. The shelves are 1500mm wide.Once the varnish had gone off it's time to get stuff moved in and make it look like a workshop at last.All of the anti-static mats could be rolled out and set out on the various work spaces.On the right is the dedicated soldering area which is 600mm deep, ahead is the computer desk and to the left is the 900mm deep space.Soldering equipment slowly being unpacked and set out.Same for the test equipment.I have a 14 outlet MDU on the right to distribute power to the various bits of test equipment. Each piece of test equipment will come off it's own fused outlet.The MDU is fed off it's own circuit coming from it's own dedicated RCBO in the breaker box.

author: Towger
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2016, 04:59:27 am
content: Yery nice. What hight are the table tops? The traditional 40 inches from the floor?

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 27, 2016, 10:57:53 am
content: Quote from: Towger on October 27, 2016, 04:59:27 amThese benches are 750mm high. The bench which will have the small machine tools on it is 1000mm high.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2016, 07:57:50 pm
content: Quote from: Towger on October 27, 2016, 04:59:27 am40" is a bit high IME. Most I've encountered are no more than 36" high for stool height, and usually ~30" for a standard desk height. Higher has been both seen & available in the past of course, but the higher tables have increased in prices, making the more standard heights far more common.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 16, 2017, 05:30:53 pm
content: Here is a little bit of an update. I have been quite busy using the space and catching up on things that I couldn't do when I didn't have a workshop.The place has surely assumed a good state of chaos (organised and not so organised). At least I am enjoying it and it's a nice place to be.Soldering areaComputer area.General work and test area.Attempted organisation that never really ends up being so.There are always bits and pieces to do and I have finally got around to installing proper network outlets rather than having CAT6 cables draped all over the place.I sold the mini lathe that I had because a fantastic deal came up for a Myford Super7. The Myford is a bit too big for the space where the mini lathe was, so I have set it up in the garage.I replaced the original motor with a three phase one for better control of speed and revering. This is the cabinet which houses the VFD and safety gear.I have performed some upgrades to the energy system too.As well as finally erecting a back fence, I built a rack for the PV modules. Here are two of them in place.I also had the opportunity to upgrade my DC bus voltage to 24V. I got myself a more up-to-date Victron Multiplus inverter/charger. This one is 3KVA. It is powerful and feature rich enough to, at some point, supply most of the house loads. That's a bigger project for the future, but this Multiplus is one of many steps in that direction.For now the 3KVA Multiplus is installed in the place of my previous 12V 2KVA Multiplus.As it is grid interactive, I have got a "smart" energy meter installed at the infeed to the workshop. The meter communicates with the Victron over RS-485. I have got loads (the observatory) placed between the energy meter and the Multiplus' AC-IN. These loads will then be supplied by energy coming out of the Multiplus' AC-IN. The Multiplus will supply enough energy (within programmable limits of course) out of it's AC-IN to ensure that the grid meter reads 0. No energy will go ahead of the meter or onto the actual grid unless you set it up to do so. I have no interest in this kind of behaviour.Of course in the event of a grid failure, AC-IN will disconnect.As expected, loads that are connected to AC-OUT will continue to be supplied by the battery even if AC-IN is disconnected. My workshop and the garage are connected to AC-OUT. I have an Enphase grid tied inverter which I might one day connect onto the AC-OUT side. Energy not used by the loads on AC-OUT can then go into AC-OUT and charge the battery. The Multiplus can frequency shift AC-OUT in order to control those type of "grid tied" inverters.This new Multiplus is therefore quite an upgrade from my previous 15 year old one.Santa got me a Victron MPPT charge controller which outperforms the Midnite Classic in terms of daily yield. Obviously, the Victron MPPT connects with the other Victron kit seamlessly and so the Classic is now redundant.This is the new stuff all set up and working.I have a Beaglebone Black which runs Victron's (mostly) open source "VenusGX" which gathers all of the information from the Multiplus, Battery Monitor and Charge Controller and uploads it to Victron's VRM site (which is a free service). Running VenusGX on a $40 Beaglebone is a lot cheaper than purchasing a Victron CCGX for $500+ to do much the same thing.