REPLACEMENT SIDE SWITCH  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ciccio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2012, 05:28:35 pm
content: Hi everybody.Sorry for starting a new thread, but I'm searching for a non-standard slide switch (see photos).In effect I need two pieces. They were destroyed b the user using a screwdrive to move the actuator..They are used in a 10 years old theater light dimmer.For some reasons that I will omit here the manufacturer has spares available, but they will not supply them to my customer. I heard from them that the manufacturer of the switch is a Company named DAHER, but I cannot find any reference to it.It's a 2 pole - 3 position switch, for PCB mounting. The sliding contacts (lost) were shorting two pins at a time.As you can see, the pins are asymmetrically placed in respect to the mechanical center.Pin pitch is 3 mm, pin rows are at 10 mm distance.Thanks to anybody who can give me the reference of a manufacturer or a distributor.

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2012, 11:05:18 pm
content: This switch may be made under license and they may not be able to supply you with this switch.Regards

author: amspire
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2012, 11:49:44 pm
content: With that offset design, it will be very hard finding a replacement, so if you cannot get the original, I think you will have to somehow force a physically different switch to do the job.I couldn't see the contacts well enough to work out the circuit of the switch, so it is hard to suggest anything that is electrically equivalent. Also it may be important to workout if the contacts are make-before-break or break-before-make.From the burning, I guess this switch has high voltages - perhaps mains voltages.Otherwise if it is a switch that is only used in one position, just replace the switch with wire links and cover the hole.Richard.

author: sonicj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2012, 04:49:39 am
content: sounds like you might have to freshen up on your MacGyver skills

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 22, 2012, 04:59:05 am
content: Dear Ciccio:--I am pretty sure that if you can provide a diagram of the switch operation, and a drawing of how it mounts, that someone will be able to recommend a reasonable solution. Often switches like the one shown are not using all of their contacts, or the contacts are being used in a redundant fashion, and so a simpler switch can, sometimes, be substituted."I'll have the Alfalfa sandwich, and the smashed yeast"Woody Allen 1935 -Best RegardsClear Ether

author: ciccio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2012, 04:51:29 pm
content: Quote from: SgtRock on February 22, 2012, 04:59:05 amFirst, I want to thank everyone for responding to such an "uninteresting" post.I've attached a drawing of the electrical circuit and of the mechanical dimensions of the switch.I don't have the schematic of the device, but from what I understand from the PCB and the panel the three positions are used this way:Position 1 and 2 select an operating mode (something like auto/manual).The actuator (I don't have it, was lost when broken) moves only through position 1 and 2 because the front panel's slot limits the travel. You need a screwdriver to operate it.If you remove the PCB from the panel, you can slide the switch to position 3 (for testing or adjustment, I believe..) So all 3 positions are used.I'm thinking about using a 2 position switch and hard-solder the pads of position 3 in the "normal" position, but must check carefully the PCB....Shorting or non-shorting contacts seems not so important, because the device is unpowered when the switch is operated.Best regards