Ideas for printing on home made panels - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2014, 07:49:41 pm
content: I am using ordinary PCB to make front and back panels.On the front side of the PCB I could use a marker pen to write the indicators, the artwork, and then if needed spray with polyurethane to seal it. But it would be tacky. Or I could use the stick on letters "letraset" or whatever the name was.Another idea would be to design and etch out the copper leaving only the artwork, then maybe tin the copper chemically, so it appears silvery. So my panel would be shiny greenish PCB with silver lettering.For even a better job, I was thinking could it be possible to use a combination of photo-resist spray and black ink, so that I could spray a PCB (without copper cladding) then expose it and develop , and after developing the ink only remains - as if I had written it using the marker pen ?Or any other such ideas?

author: Dave Turner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2014, 08:26:25 pm
content: There used to be ink/bubblejet printers that would print accurately onto CDs held in a jig.It's worth thinking about.

author: deth502
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2014, 08:31:25 pm
content: get some printer ready vinyl decal sheets, print up your design, and apply.im ABSOLUTELY sure that this was gone over here before, someone had an entire video on the process on youtube.

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2014, 09:20:24 pm
content: If you get that CNC engraver going, you can get plastic sheets that have a dark upper layer and a light upper layer (or vice versa) so you can engrave through one layer and get nice high-contrast lettering or line graphics.In the mean time, I've used polyester label paper sheets for similar things. It's laser printable and non-porous so it won't smudge or run and thin and sticky enough to even hold onto rough surfaces. You can draw out your whole panel and print one copy on plain paper to tape on as a drilling template, and then when you're done fabricating the panel print out the polyester label and slap it on.If you need small or oddly shaped labels, you can print the required outline on the label and use a ruler and an Xacto knife to cut it out.

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2014, 10:59:59 pm
content: I am looking at the transparent polyester labels on amazon now, if I get the large ones, A4 size, I can print out the whole panel on it, and then cut it down to size, drill the appropriate holes and cutouts and slap it on as one piece. That sounds like a good idea. But I still think it may be a better idea if I had a dyed photo resist, spray on PCB or other board, expose in UV, develop and voila.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2014, 12:58:03 am
content: My video on doing a instrument front panelhere

author: deth502
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2014, 02:04:29 am
content: Quote from: robrenz on March 03, 2014, 12:58:03 amthat is exactly the one i was thinking of. you also had a "how to" on installing them as well, didnt you?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2014, 02:59:18 am
content: Yes, applying sticky overlays successfullyhere

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2014, 09:44:11 am
content: Hi, I have watched both videos thanks.I am thinking of this chemical process:1) Take a blank panel, eg an aluminium plate or a PCB2) Spray with black ink and dry3) Spray with positive photo resist and dry4) Expose artwork in UV light5) Develop panel in photo resist developer. This procedure should strip out all unwanted areas, and expose the layer of black ink in the same way it would expose the areas of copper to be etched.6) Use a chemical solution to "etch out" all exposed areas of black ink in the same way we would use acid to etch out the exposed areas of copper.7) Strip out the photo resist.Spray with polyurethane coating to seal in and protect the artwork.The above process would end up with a panel with black writing/artwork on it in exactly the same way we would prepare a PCB at home. The only step in the process I am missing is the selection of the right ink and also the right chemical in step (6) that can remove the exposed ink areas without touching the photo-resist.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2014, 12:18:11 pm
content: IMO you are making life much more difficult and limiting yourself to a black and white panel. Proper use of colors including the color of the panel itself can make a much more professional panel, again IMO

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 05:42:12 am
content: Quote from: akis on March 02, 2014, 07:49:41 pm

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2014, 09:38:14 am
content: Old style was the use of a "silkscreen".The hard bit was making the "masK',but people did do it at home.It gives a very professional look to a panel,& with modern technology the mask problem should be easier to overcome.