hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Hantek DSO4102B Scope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: scoper1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 01, 2015, 10:34:50 am
content: Hallo all,I got one of these scopes as a birthday present off ebay ( yes I know ) but it appears to be quite good. My question is if this is a genuine model of Hantek, as I do not see its model listed on their website. Does anyone have a definitive answer please and are there any improvements / mods available.Thanks

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 01, 2015, 12:29:18 pm
content: Nobody is exactly going to try to copy or fake a hantek - ref the siglent fiasco

author: scoper1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 02, 2015, 06:30:24 am
content: Thanks, will have a look.

author: obscuretech
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 11, 2016, 08:54:14 pm
content: The 'B' model seems to lack the function generator and SD card slot, and has half the sampling rate, that you can get on the 'C' model for nearly the same price (on Amazon). There is firmware on the Hantek website for the DSO4102C and DSO4202C. Either firmware version works in my DSO4102C but does not change the bandwidth/rise time, that needs to be done in the hardware. Note that with any version of the firmware, including the old version that ships with the product, the DSO4102C has 2 ns/div minimum sweep rate. The latest firmware allows the square wave duty cycle of the generator to be set to 0.01 instead of the original limit of 0.1.The DSO4102C has a couple problems: If "Equ-Time" mode is selected and the sweep rate lowered to 20 ns/div the scope will crash and reset to default settings. The generator introduces approximately one minor time increment of duty cycle jitter on square waves if the duty cycle setting ends in the number 5. A similar problem can be observed on trapezoidal waves: the duty cycle jitters whenever the sum of the 'Rise Duty' and 'High Duty' ends in the number 5.

author: glicos
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2016, 07:06:32 am
content: Quote from: obscuretech on May 11, 2016, 08:54:14 pmThanks for the information. I also have DSO4102C and will check if mine have the same problem. Ill give updates once i get home after work tonight...

author: glicos
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2016, 05:47:39 pm
content: Quote from: glicos on May 13, 2016, 07:06:32 amUpdate:I encountered the above problem as posted by obscuretech on my initial test (but only once). I tried to simulate it again if repeatable but so far i never experience it again.But definitely there is a problem...will send a report regarding this problem to tech support but definitely will take time before they reply...that's problem with Hantek..their support...grrr
Hantek DSO4102B software  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: scoper1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 16, 2020, 08:31:28 am
content: Has anyone got a work around for the TTScope software which does not work under win10 OS.Hantek said that M$ prices to upgrade the drivers to their specs are very expensiveThanks
Hantek Dso5102p probe not working - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: RODCYBORGRJ
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 05, 2023, 01:05:31 am
content: I am oscilloscope hantek dso 5102p turns on, enters all functions, updates firmware, does self-calibration. But do not perform measurements, your probe is inoperative dead. I decided to disassemble and saw. that line +5v was low about 0.98v . The probe terminal tester should have 5v frequency 1khz, but it is marked 0.5v . I decided to remove the 78r05 regulator and test it with load. ok. Then I injected 5v into the regular output alloy, the line remained 5v but a 50ma consumption and a component heating up appeared, and I could see a hole in it. Does anyone know what component this is? Because in the generic scheme I didn't find it. The 5volt line enters pin1 of this ci

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2023, 02:28:56 am
content: Just a shot in the dark, but the possibly a digital-to-analog converter (DAC) similar to DAC80501,https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/dac60501.pdf?ts=1688524034130&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.ti.com%252Fproduct%252FDAC60501or similar.Difficult to say without more information on where the pins lead.
Hantek DSO5102P USB on Banggood for 230$ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: judosheep
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 12:31:12 pm
content: Hello all!Im pretty new to electronics and wanted to buy a Oszollospope but i dont really know much about them...I just wanted to ask you guys if this is a good deal because i dont think that i need that much.heres the link:https://www.banggood.com/de/Hantek-DSO5102P-USB-Digital-Storage-Oscilloscope-2Channels-100MHz-1GSas-p-1013032.html?gmcCountry=CH&currency=CHF&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_union&utm_content=2zou&utm_campaign=ssc-ch-de-all&gclid=Cj0KCQiA68bhBRCKARIsABYUGidQ2o4FFAHkykmCGAnGHkOf8wiOh1IvIgLn8at9sodzoJyr0sR9O_gaArz1EALw_wcB&cur_warehouse=CN#jsReviewsWrap

author: MrAl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 01:43:22 pm
content: Quote from: judosheep on January 06, 2019, 12:31:12 pmHi,I think there have been some comparisons on this site. Maybe look in the test equipment section here.
Hantek Support - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mgroz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 29, 2024, 11:03:12 am
content: I'm currently using a couple of DSO2D15's on test equipment via SCPI. To date, I've not had to measure time delay from signal 1 to signal 2. Looking at the SCPI manual on their site (dated 2021-12-31), the :MEAS: command is completely outdated. Here is what I've asked their Support (Support@hantek.com):The SCPI manual seems to be outdated and does not show the MEAS commands for FFR (first falling sigA to first rising of sigB). I can manually do this on the scope using the following:1) Press MEAS, set SOURCE = CH12) Press TYPE, select FFR3) Select page 2 then SETTINGS and select Source B = CH2Here are my questions:1) Is there an updated manual showing these commands and how to use them on the dso2d15?2) How do you select the 2 sources via SCPI (sigA and sigB)I’ve been able to send the following using a terminal::MEAS:CHAN1:ITEM? FFRThe above measures CHAN1 falling to CHAN1 rising and returns the correct value. For me to measure the rising edge of CHAN2, I have to change Source B to CHAN2 on the scope. There is no command to access this on the scope from SCPI and is also not part of the MEAS command to state sigA and sigB.Note: I'm running the latest firmware.Per usual, I never get any replies and am at a loss. In the past, I've muddled my way through but this time I've hit a brick wall. Does anyone know of how I can get through to their support department or someone else who can get answers to questions?Thanks
Happy KABBOUMM your power supply exploded Christmas - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: gildasd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2015, 08:30:42 pm
content: After a nice Xmas family meal, went to do some measurements, as you do.Took out the 12V, 1Amp wall wart.For once I plugged in the supply before connecting the test board. KABOUM!Nice puff of magic smoke.The plastic tabs had given way and it was only held together by a self taper.Opened up, and it seem one of the rectifying diodes had shorted a heat sink, that in turn blew up an IC and some part that says 250V, 1.6A in top...I think it had been arcing since I first plugged it in this week and just could not take it any more...Not removing the heatsink nor unwelding parts to check further, this is going back to the shop ASAP.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 24, 2015, 08:54:03 pm
content: Uh slightly better than the power supply I found being used to power a pair of scales at work. I was given it to fix and found that is had no PCB, just 4 diodes and a capcitor soldered in mid air.

author: gildasd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2015, 09:15:00 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on December 24, 2015, 08:54:03 pmThe BOM must have made management happy lucky wonderful long life.It's crap, but the output clean up real nice. Using it as a standardised part I can swtich out in case of failure.Seems they omited a pair of coils on the output side.In any case, the ones I'll be using for the project will get opened, checked, insulated and hot snooted.

author: SharpEars
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 28, 2015, 06:50:05 pm
content: Quote from: Simon on December 24, 2015, 08:54:03 pmSo, unregulated, I gather.

author: gildasd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2015, 06:52:58 pm
content: Quote from: SharpEars on December 28, 2015, 06:50:05 pmCE with the C and the E too close?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 28, 2015, 07:45:19 pm
content: Quote from: gildasd on December 28, 2015, 06:52:58 pmWell aparently that's a myth and it's a genuine misprint because they wanted to blatantly lie all along about the CE marking. I can't remember if it was CE marked, at the end of the day not much wrong with what they did but goes to show how shoddy the chinese will be.
Happy PI day (a day late) and a question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dsharp02
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2016, 03:58:14 pm
content: Was reading this:http://tauday.com/and it got me thinking about RC time constants and how tau is used as a shorthand.If the Tau-ists had their way calculating cutoff frequencies for RC filters could get really confusing.Fc = 1 / (2 * pi * R * C)(substituting tau, the RC time constant) => Fc = 1 / (2 * pi * tau)(substituting tau, the mathematical constant) => Fc = 1 / ( _tau_ * tau)So I guess the question is tau? or pi?

author: ericloewe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 15, 2016, 06:01:54 pm
content: Silly answer:Pau = 1.5 * pi is the way to go. It'll please nobody, so nobody will feel left out.Proper answer:Notice how next to nothing is abbreviated with the letter pi. Since pi has been the traditional constant used, everything else more or less decided not to use the letter pi. Had tau been the "one true constant", I'd expect the opposite to happen - the letter tau practically reserved for 2pi and the letter pi more or less free to use in most contexts.

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2016, 09:19:01 pm
content: I like "pi" because of the Euler equation: [e^ (ipi) ] + 1 = 0.This simple equation containse,i, pi, 1, and 0 -- truly fundamental constants.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2016, 09:30:10 pm
content: It only needs one sign change: \$e^{i\tau} - 1 = 0\$

author: ericloewe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 15, 2016, 09:42:37 pm
content: Congratulations. You just proved that "pi vs tau" is an equivalent(ly silly) discussion to "plus vs minus".

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2016, 11:40:46 pm
content: Quote from: TimFox on March 15, 2016, 09:19:01 pmSo, we have pi day. Why not "e day" and "i day"? The latter I propose belongs on the 29th of February.

author: ericloewe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 18, 2016, 12:01:45 pm
content: Quote from: Cerebus on March 17, 2016, 11:40:46 pmBecause it only happens once every four pi/2?
Happy Thanksgiving! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tony3d
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 04:52:21 pm
content: Happy Thanksgiving everyone! Enjoy the day!

author: trackman44
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 04:57:44 pm
content: I'm in Canada, so I work, bummerWill

author: Napalm2002
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 12:51:11 am
content: Happy thanksgiving to all!

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 01:10:13 am
content: Quote from: trackman44 on November 28, 2013, 04:57:44 pmThat's all right. Corporations here in the US have decided to turn Thanksgiving into a shopping day now anyway. Bastards.

author: Seg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 01:52:30 am
content: http://mst3kturkeyday.com!

author: KD0CAC John
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 03:00:25 pm
content: Another perspective , happy thanks taking

author: trackman44
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2013, 05:31:33 am
content: Quote from: mojo-chan on November 29, 2013, 02:45:17 pmYou give Thanks to the Lord for a good Harvest and for all the good things that you have, then you eat turkey!Will

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 01, 2013, 01:50:13 pm
content: Don't forget stuffing, gravy, mashed potatoes, rolls with butter and green bean cassarole. Then, after copious amounts of dessert, you pass outTom, NW0LF

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2013, 01:58:29 pm
content: You do not thank the Lord for green bean casserole, as the recipe was actually given to us by Satan himself. Apparently it is what they serve in the depths of the fiery pit. Just thought you'd want to know before accidentally committing blasphemy. This is not a Godly dish.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2013, 02:13:52 pm
content: Musical casserole? Nothing wrong with it, you just need to add in some fresh green asparagus, some artichoke and a little fresh garlic cloves. Serve with a nice 3 bean salad as well.
hard drive engine - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Adrian_Arg.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2023, 12:15:34 am
content: I have a question, I have several hard drive motors, but all with three pins, and the schematics that I have seen are for four cables, using irfz44n, in those with three cables, what would be the correct schematic?

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2023, 12:19:05 am
content: https://www.electroschematics.com/hdd-bldc-motor/Is three-phase engine, maybe triangle connection:

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2023, 02:26:13 am
content: At a vague guess:4 wires = 2 coils3 wires = 3 coils in a "delta" or "wye" "3-phase" configuration

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2023, 09:13:47 am
content: The video linked to by DC1MC also uses a 4 wire connection, but with 3 MOSfets. This suggest a Y conncection for a 3-phase motor.If you only have 3 wires, then you need three half bridges instead of 3 MOSfets. The motor itself is just a BLDC motor, and any motor controller that can do sensorless drive for a 12V motor should work.
hard to find inductor  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jamesm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 16, 2015, 12:28:47 pm
content: Hi everyone can someone out there help me identify a smd inductor it is marked 6r8 250 535 I have found the 6r8 means 6.8uh I am unable to find what the 250 535 means this inductor is from a asus laptop model a55a mother board regards james

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 16, 2015, 12:38:11 pm
content: That probably means no more than manufacturer internal part number. You'd better attach schematic/service manual where you did get those numbers. Or if this is written on the inductor itself, then photo of it.

author: Quark-elec
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2015, 12:39:49 pm
content: May be SRF or IDC. Check the datasheet for details.

author: jamesm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 17, 2015, 04:05:53 am
content: Hi wraper it is what is written on the inductor I will send photos I found that when I put the device near the steel ruler the inductor had a magnetic core regards james

author: jamesm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 17, 2015, 04:13:44 am
content: Hi quark-elec I have tried srf and idc data sheets and no luck thanks regards James

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2015, 04:18:46 am
content: Quote from: jamesm on April 17, 2015, 04:13:44 amWhat do you mean by "no luck"? Have you definitely proven that those parts are not suitable replacements, or have you just failed to find definitive proof that the part you have is one of the parts in those datasheets?

author: ion54
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2015, 01:30:31 pm
content: I would get the dimensions (width, length and height) and select the 6.8 uH that fits the size at the highest current rating. It is probably used as a choke on one of the power lines.

author: Scrts
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2015, 01:38:00 pm
content: I've used a very similar to the photo in my PSU design, however mine was 10uH. There's a same package 6.8uH too. Check the datasheet here:Vishay IHLP-2525CZ-01 Datasheet
Hard-To-Get Parts in Australia - Where To Get Them? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cpsmusic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2024, 01:41:33 am
content: Hi All,I'd like to do a simple mod to a piece of audio equipment that I own. The mod requires a 1M Linear Dual Gang Pot - simple enough. The problem is, none of the main Aussie retailers (Jaycar, Altronics) seem to have this component. Of course, I could order one and get it shipped but in most cases the shipping is too expensive. So are there any other suppliers who might have this component or do I just have to bite the bullet and get it shipped?Cheers!

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2024, 08:33:44 am
content: Quote from: cpsmusic on September 01, 2024, 01:41:33 amLinear or Logarithmic ?RS or Farnell/E14 are worth a try.

author: bergenhut
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2024, 09:19:57 am
content: Wagner Electronics (WES) (Wagner online) Summerhill, Sydney is a possibility. Online or in person at their warehouse on Parramatta Road.James

author: cpsmusic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2024, 12:46:23 pm
content: I found what I'm after on Rockby so all good!Cheers!
Hard to solder BNC to PCB. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Patman72
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 01, 2019, 07:54:04 pm
content: Very hard to heat up the ground pin enough on the BNC connector.Any tips on how you would avoid coldjoint and not ruining the pcb with to much heat.Do you preheat in some way?Can you go really hot (above 400deg C) on the top of the BNC leg while not touching the board.And add tin and wait for it to melt without touching the solderingiron.Thanks!

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2019, 08:31:54 pm
content: You need a powerful soldering iron. The old Weller transformer-type gun was good for this, but you had to be careful not to overheat things.I can now do it with my Weller WMP (65 W) temp-controller iron with a fat tip, but just barely.Jon

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2019, 12:04:11 am
content: You could try to pre-tin the PCB and legs of the joints you are doing, then remove the solder with wick. Use a little flux but not too much and a high temp and then reflow them together aiming for 3-4 seconds. Make sure your tip is clean as well because it makes quite a difference. The other way is with preheating which does about 50% of the work for you.Ideally use an iron with decent wattage with a high mass tip such as the one below, 6.35mm or whatever is size appropriate to your joint. Once you create a thermal bridge it has enough mass to transfer decent heat into the target. Then if the station has enough power it will maintain that temp while you complete the joint.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2019, 03:18:49 am
content: make sure its clean too. try a really fine sand paper

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2019, 03:21:33 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on April 02, 2019, 03:18:49 amThe part, not the iron tip.

author: Kasper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2019, 06:04:45 am
content: Use a big tip, flux and a bit of solder when you first contact tip to joint to help conduct heat from iron to joint. Wait a few seconds then add more solder.If it takes too long or you need extra high heat then you are probably doing something wrong or have wrong equipment.

author: Patman72
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 03, 2019, 12:39:35 pm
content: Thank you for your help!Used my pace 105watt desoldering iron to heat it up.Worked quite good.

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 03, 2019, 03:41:27 pm
content: Preheating also helps. Sometimes heat gun can be used either for soldering, or for pre-heating (even 100C can be sometimes enough). Watchout for plastic and other part that may not like high temperature.

author: perieanuo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2019, 05:37:02 am
content: Or use 2 irons, ask a friend for helpEnvoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk
Hardware hacking tools and software ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2020, 03:29:56 pm
content: I watch stuff like DEFCON videos where someone will take apart a device, hack it/crack and make it do something else.I have a few parts I'd love to try and probe and poke at, and start learning more programing and networking stuff.I have basic EE tools, and I have a BusPirate and little logic analyzer on the way.Starting small, I have 2-3 USB MP3 players. How do I mindcontrol them ? What program does for USB, what wireshark/nmap do for LAN ?The firmware on 1 of these little MP3 players might be small enough for me to start studying. So what are the typical programs for such a thing ? Decomplier's ? U-Boot ? Bootlogger's ?? Better get Linux
Hardware or software problem? LCD (HD44780) pic12f683 with shift-register - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: lk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2012, 06:46:42 pm
content: Greetings Everyone,I have gone though the steps on this blog post, i would like to use it as a debugging output display, but currently i have more bugs than displayshttp://embedded-lab.com/blog/?p=30I use mikroc, and i have been able to simulate a different setup, not this above, i only have access to PICsimulatorIDE, and that cant simulate with the shiftregister. But anyway, the basic 4 bit HD44780 works well when being simulated(different micro), but when i build it in hardware, i got similar output to what you see in the picasaweb link below. So i decided to try the shift register instead, less wires from the micro. but i get the same problem, there is activity in the LCD display, but i only get garbage. I can see the cursor move around and print more garbage. I have tried several displays, i have tried 2 of 4 displays, so my normal reasoning would be that the displays are OK, but I'm suspicious.I guess what I'm asking is if anyone has seen the displays behave the same way as show in the link below?Picture showing my problem.https://picasaweb.google.com/108987705034973313443/18042012?authkey=Gv1sRgCI-snavJspbnQQLink to the displays (got them last year, but this pretty much looks the same)http://www.ebay.com/itm/HD44780-1602-16x2-LCD-Display-Module-Blue-Blacklight-/180849058072?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1b71a118-lkp.s sorry for the messy message

author: lk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2012, 04:14:32 pm
content: oki, at least my displays are out of the question now, i got an old display from a HP Visualize workstation, maybe 10-12 years old, and that does the same thing, it does however use 250 mA , in contrast to the new display that uses 20 mA.

author: lk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2012, 06:06:08 pm
content: Ok, now its working, i played with the settings in the pic, clock and tons of other things but anyway now its working, both with the cheap ebay lcd and the old from the HP workstation.very strange, now i just need to know what changes i have done to make it work-lk
Hardware recommandations for memory components dumping - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Supreme
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 17, 2016, 05:36:52 pm
content: Hi, I want to dump/sniff all kinds of memory components (eMMC,SPI,I2C..).I'm looking for recommendations for hardware.What is the recommended Logic Analyzer Digital Sample Rate/Analog Sample Rate for this purpose?What is the recommended Oscilloscope Bandwidth/Sampling Rate for this purpose?What else should I consider when I buy those tools?What other hardware components can help me?Thanks.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2016, 06:27:22 pm
content: If you have the parts in your hand (not soldered into an operating circuit), the Raspberry PI is pretty compelling. You can send commands, retrieve data, store the data or format and print the data.Otherwise, you need to go to the datasheet for the various devices to see how fast they might run and then buy test equipment of sufficient capability. I suspect a logic analyzer will need to run at 100 MHz or so but I'm just guessing. Furthermore, where would the LA store several GB of memory? That's why the PI is so useful. It has a filesystem, it can read at whatever rate is convenient (Python scripts for I2C and SPI, I don't know how I would do eMMC at the moment) and store endless amounts of data either to the onboard filesystem or to an networked file server with TBs of storage.
Hardware testing ideas - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jismake
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 31, 2014, 05:21:25 pm
content: I have a project. But i am struggling !I have 9 electronic product - which has around 24 DIO, 9 high current outputs (5A each).I have been asked to test the inputs and outputs for many hundred of hours.My difficulty is to pick the right test electronics and how to test all 9 products togetherAppreciate your ideasthanksjis

author: rxxbxyhxxb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2014, 05:56:26 pm
content: It sounds like a PLC?I think you will need to do 2 class evaluations.Noise testsuch as FT/B, Conducted radio Frequency immunity,noise immunity etc.Environment testWorking Heat/Cold Resistance and Humidity Resistance test etc...

author: FrankenPC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 31, 2014, 06:11:16 pm
content: Quote from: rxxbxyhxxb on May 31, 2014, 05:56:26 pmWhat's a FT/B noise test?

author: rxxbxyhxxb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2014, 06:33:20 pm
content: What's a FT/B noise test?FT/B - Fast Transient / Burst Immunity testI hope the keyword IEC 61131-2 could help OP.
Harmon Kardon HK395 2.1 PC Speaker System - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Pete2103
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 06:20:03 pm
content: HelloDoes anyone know if Kardon HK395 2.1 PC Speakers can be fitted with a stereo jack socket? One of the satellites has power on off with volume control with a small pcb I have found a roughly sketched diagram of the sub speaker and unsure where to go from there.Thank youPete
Harry Potter - Sorting hat - Change phrases - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Maroum1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 06:08:35 pm
content: Hi to all, I am an art student and for my next artwork I am planning to make object which base is from YU ME Harry Potter sorting hat ([https://thepopinsider.com/products/harry-potter-real-talking-sorting-hat-2-0/](https://thepopinsider.com/products/harry-potter-real-talking-sorting-hat-2-0/)) I want to change the audio phrases which the hat is saying and keep that the hat will be moving when saying new phrases. Inside the hat there is this kind of chip, because I have zero skill with wiring and electronics, I would like to know, if there is chance to change the audio files on this chip or it’s need to make new chip. If a new chip is the only option, how difficult is this operation? Thank you for your advices. Marcel

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 06:19:32 pm
content: Nearly zero chance to find any info on this and most likely it's not reprogrammable to begin with. Those which can be reprogrammed normally would have a separate flash chip on the board.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2023, 06:21:10 pm
content: I'd look at "sound recorder modules" you can get from aliexpress.com:https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-sound-recorder-module.html

author: liaifat85
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2023, 05:46:51 pm
content: Hello, these chips are not reprogrammable. Either you have to use a sound recorder module or SD card+spaeker with Arduino.

author: Maroum1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 24, 2023, 07:25:29 pm
content: Thanks guys a lot. Is it possible to code Arduino for 2 tasks at the same time? I need that while the sound is on, it also turn on the motor to move the lips and eyebrows.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2023, 08:25:50 pm
content: Quote from: Maroum1 on June 24, 2023, 07:25:29 pmYes.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2023, 03:11:32 am
content: It's a COB MCU almost certainly with mask ROM. You'll need to program your own MCU and connect it to the existing peripherals.

author: Maroum1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 27, 2023, 05:00:43 am
content: I have one more question, is it possible to connect the original peripherals to Arduino, or should i buy new?ThanksM

author: DarkMode
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2023, 08:24:02 am
content: Everything should be salvageable, except the Micro-controller board. The Magic is in the Board, which is what you will have to replace
Harvesting Antenna Circuit Vs Charge Pump Circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: THATguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2017, 12:45:34 am
content: Is this the same as a Charge Pump circuit?Also why are the capacitors all of the same value?(disregarding the smoothing one on ground)I would have thought it would begin with a small capacitor then have higher value ones at each stage.I also don't know why capacitors that are tiny pf/uf have such high voltages.If someone knows of some links that I could educate myself up on these things that would be great.(thought I understood most of the basics of electronics!)If I have a Charge Pump Circuit, is there any need for a Swtiching Regulator?Note; I began a new thread because others hijacked my last one (guess that thought I was a free energy nutter).

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2017, 01:19:45 am
content: It is a standard voltage multiplier drawn in a really weird way. Here is more infohttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_multiplierCapacitors need to be as high value as possible within the used technology. There is no reason to start small, you want to hold as much charge as possible on each stage.

author: THATguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2017, 01:56:13 am
content: Aren't voltage multipliers for converting AC to DC?Because I'm only interested in DC.Perhaps a Voltage doubler is more appropriate for my needs.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2017, 01:58:21 am
content: Yest, they mostly are, including this one. This antenna is expected to receive AC signal from all the transmitters around.If you are interested in DC, then this is circuit will not be useful to you. I also doubt it will harvest much when implemented with discreet components anyway.Well, typical voltage doubler is basically the same circuit in a multiply-by-2 configuration.It is impossible to simply multiply DC voltage. You need to have a switcher somewhere.
Has anyone assembled the Aluminum alloy Soldering Iron with T12 Tip For HAKKO - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Seven5555
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 22, 2018, 01:23:28 am
content: I bought one of thesehttps://www.ebay.com/itm/263342561733?ViewItem=&item=263342561733It comes with no info or diagrams but found something close but doesn't match my work station pinout. I made a picture of what I have. The main thing is, I'm not sure how to wire in the sensors to the new Iron

author: Seven5555
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 23, 2018, 06:19:15 pm
content: I didn't realize how difficult of a task this is, 79 views and no replies, does anyone know where I might find a place to ask such a difficult question and get a helpful reply if not an answer?

author: alpher
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2018, 07:18:21 pm
content: It could be because of this:"We looked everywhere.Looks like this page is missing. If you still need help, visit our help pages."

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2018, 08:07:53 pm
content: Quote from: Seven5555 on October 22, 2018, 01:23:28 amWeird, it looks like the ebay tags in bbcode produce that nonfunctional link. Just pasting it as a normal URL works fine:https://www.ebay.com/itm/263342561733?ViewItem=&item=263342561733

author: Seven5555
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 27, 2018, 01:14:55 am
content: https://www.ebay.com/itm/263342561733?ViewItem=&item=263342561733

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2018, 01:37:22 am
content: It comes with a mercury switch? Thats not good.

author: alpher
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2018, 01:54:07 am
content: What's the problem here? You have a heater connected to red and green wires and NTC thermistor connected between blue and yellow, for the sake of economy they use the same common wire, both being unidirectional it doesn't matter which leg is common, what else it's there to confuse you?
Has anyone seen this illuminated pushbutton switch before? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: K3mHtH
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2021, 01:20:57 am
content: I'm trying to find a similar switch as this shown (see attachment).It's an illuminated pushbutton. I also wonder if anyone makes a pushbutton that allows you to add your own SMT LED under/next to it so you can be in control of the colour/brightness yourself - that would be awesome.

author: EEauroro
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2021, 01:59:52 am
content: https://www.digikey.sg/product-detail/en/e-switch/LP2S2WHTRED-N/EG4844-ND/2235321Have some from digikey 5 bucks eachEdit: LED is built-in and can be controlled by the user

author: JohnnyMalaria
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2021, 02:07:05 am
content: Built-in RGB LED:https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/140/LP11-1516606.pdf
Has anyone tried the Quick 201B desoldering station? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: belzrebuth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 08:11:45 am
content: Hi all,I'm looking for a desoldering station for thru-hole components because the solder pump+wick method is a pain sometimes.A popular choice is the ZD916 and it's readily available in my country but Quick products seem better made and more reliable.(I'm also interested in the 957d btw.)Thing is,I don't see many reviews of the 201B so if anyone owns one I'd like some feedback on whether it's a solid buy.

author: CoolNamesAllTaken
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2019, 05:39:53 pm
content: I'm looking at getting this model of desoldering station now--any updates? Would love to hear about how people like it.

author: BorisTheSpider
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 11, 2020, 02:41:41 am
content: I bought a Quick 201B a couple of years ago and it seems to be reasonably serviceable. On my unit though the handpiece left a bit to be desired in terms of fit and finish. Nothing particularly deal-breaking though. I did have some initial concerns about the soundness of the mounting of the heating element onto the plastic body, but it seems to have remained solid after a couple of years of (admittedly light) use.

author: CoolNamesAllTaken
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 11:22:34 pm
content: Having owned the Quick 201B for a couple of years of light use, I can say that it's held up great, and I'm happy with my purchase! Slightly more polish than the standard Anesty / generic brand Amazon desoldering stations, and some nice convenience features like a flow indicator on the handpiece that shows you when it's clogged. It also has an auto-sleep / auto-power off feature based off a timer that helps prevent the tip from oxidizing if you accidentally leave it on.
Has anyone used scientech equipment before? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: calmdownkarm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2016, 09:55:16 am
content: Hey everyoneI'm just starting to set up my own lab - If you listened to the Amp Hour Call in show #3 getting decent soldering Irons is difficult in India. It basically boils down to spending an absurd amount of money for a weller/hakko or buying Soldron/Scientech. Has anyone ever used Scientech 81 and 83 Soldering Irons/Stations before? What were your experiences? (http://www.scientechworld.com/soldering-and-desoldering-solutionsis the company I'm talking about)
Has Dave released the Schematic for 121GW multimeter yet?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Gurpreet
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2018, 02:43:47 pm
content: Has Dave released the Schematic for 121GW multimeter yet? If not , does any one have any idea of when it is being released?

author: glarsson
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2018, 02:56:48 pm
content: Yesterday on the 121GW firmware thread.

author: ChrisG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 24, 2018, 05:16:10 pm
content: Yes in anther thread.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/eevblog-121gw-multimeter-firmware-details/msg1398606/#lastPost. at the bottom... Will not link the url here.

author: Gurpreet
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2018, 05:42:22 pm
content: that's awesome , thanks guys
Have anyone successfully done “IR convert” on an Apple device? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Logan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2020, 09:46:34 am
content: I searched a lot and found nothing, it’s a bit strange giving the popularity of Apple products...My friend bought a new phone and we want to try surgery on the old one.It must be more difficult than some antique phones we tried, because this one have auto focus and the lens seems not just screwed in.Have anyone tried a similar thing? Even if not on Apple device, but any one with auto focus.
Have Eagle files; PCB estimates needed - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 13hm13
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2020, 10:08:26 pm
content: I need a cost estimate guess (US dollars) -- about five total units -- on the following small PCB:https://tangentsoft.net/audio/mlxfeed.htmlhttps://tangentsoft.net/audio/misc/mlxfeed-eagle.zipThanks!NOTE:This PCB is for private use. The orig. project was open source and the orig designer has since passed away.Tangentsoft orig sold the PCBs (nonprofit) over 10 years ago but is no longer interested in building/selling the project PCBs.

author: BrianHG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2020, 10:24:18 pm
content: Send the files to:https://jlcpcb.com/orhttps://www.pcbway.com/

author: wasyoungonce
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2020, 10:27:07 pm
content: Look, don't want to sound disrespectful but surely you have noticed the ad at the top of this same page for JLCPCB? Which quotes $2 (USD) for qty 5, 2 layer PCBs...of course postage is on top....Why don't you click on the ad and get a quote from them. Just put in the approx size, look at specs holes, layers and max min....upload files requested order them. It'll also give a "Click referral" money to the owner of this forum, Dave. Win win.You may need to convert the eagle schematic/board to gerber files. There are plenty of free gerber generators...http://gerbv.geda-project.org/.

author: greenpossum
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2020, 12:32:30 am
content: KiCad can import Eagle projects if you need to generate gerbers to submit to any of a number of fabs for quotes, but maybe you aren't familiar with KiCad. I've tried the import on small boards only though.

author: 13hm13
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2020, 03:19:41 am
content: Quote from: wasyoungonce on October 18, 2020, 10:27:07 pmI use an advanced AdBlocker, so I see no ads.Eagle used be "the" pcb/layout software of choice, over a decade ago. Now, I have no idea what's popular.Converting is not straighfwd, but I did get the proper files generated, Zip'd up, and exported to JLC.I pretty much kept JLC setting default. The Gerber pcb files looks good.I was surprised that 5 boards cost only $2.00 (for all five). I chose std shipping, and total cost was $7.36 via Pay Pal.EDIT:My order was placed but it is still being reviewed.YIKES!! I just noticed that while the TOP view of Gerber view looks correct (holes and traces/pads match), in the BOTTOM view, the holes are 180 degree mirrored.

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2020, 12:21:47 am
content: Converting the files should be straightforward. It's a built in feature of Eagle.
Have I got these crystal frequency calculations correct? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tehtehteh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2021, 03:59:25 pm
content: My first question is are my calculations for this crystal frequency pulling correct?From the MAX7044 data sheet (https://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/MAX7044.pdf)QuoteThe crystal frequency is \$f_{XTAL} = \frac{f_{RF}}{32}\$ so 433.92MHz requires a 13.56MHz crystal, and the closest I can get at this frequency is is 4pF.The data sheet for this crystal states (https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/3/ABM8W-1775189.pdf)Quoteso for 10MHz: \$\frac{0.00156}{2}\left(\frac{1}{{0.88+4}} - \frac{1}{{0.88+3}}\right) * 10^6\$ Which gives -41.1948622613 ppm error.and for 27MHz: \$\frac{0.0038}{2}\left(\frac{1}{{1.16+4}} - \frac{1}{{1.16+3}}\right) * 10^6\$ Which gives -88.5137149672 ppm error.I'm not sure what the negative result means as the data sheet stated that this error wouldincreasefrequency, but if I ignore the sign and extrapolate for 13.56MHzI get 51.1ppm error or 433.9422MHz.My second question is although I could correct for this error with a capacitor, I'd like to know if this error would be considered acceptable for a car remote fob, and I could get away with no capacitor to save precious space on the PCB?The alternative would be a slightly smaller crystal with 9pF load capacitance, and a parallel capacitor, in which case my third question is: is a 6pF parallel capacitor the correct value? (Based on this formula: \$\frac{1}{C_l}=\frac{1}{C_{series1}} + \frac{1}{C_{series2}} + \frac{1}{C_{spec} + C_{parallel}}\$)

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2021, 09:28:50 pm
content: I think you are overengineering this. You can't buy crystals as accurate as that, at least I don't think so. One solution would be to try a few and see how they work. I suspect the receiver is broad enough to tolerate some frequency error.

author: tehtehteh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2021, 11:48:15 am
content: The majority of crystals I have been looking at are 10ppm or 20ppm accuracy.
Have IRF462 MOSFET's got any other name designation? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Chris Wilson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2014, 10:53:56 am
content: I am looking at building a circuit that cites IRF462 MOSFET devices to be used, but I am struggling to find UK suppliers, do they go by some other name? Thanks.

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2014, 11:26:02 am
content: IRF462 seems to be ancient. Mosfets in TO3 or the similar TO204 case are quite rare today. But IRFP460 looks similar except it has a TO247 case.
Have one shot at soldering MLF32 need to choose one soldering technique from two - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: alexg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2016, 05:33:21 pm
content: Hi All, I need to solder MLF32 or VQFN32 (not sure what's the correct package name) to the board, I will have one board and one chip so I have pretty much one shot at it and I don't want to screw it up, there seems to be few techniques around but two that stand out most are these:1 - as Dave shows on one of his soldering videos is where you apply solder paste to the board, place chip over the paste, reflow with hot air and then run iron tip around contacts on the sides to "fill the gaps" so to speak and patch up places with too little solder on contacts.2 - as someone else showing on youtube, using soldering iron and flat tip you apply small layer of solder to the pads on the board to coat them with solder, let it cool down, then you sit chip over it and then you reflow with hot air.Which method is better?

author: Buriedcode
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2016, 04:07:38 pm
content: When I first started using MLN or QFN packages, I didn't have solder paste, so I used the second method.Firstly, I basically tinned every pad so that each pad wasn't completely flat but very so slightly raised (it really doesn't take much solder at all). Then I applied flux to the pads and the underside of the chip, including the centre pad, placed the chip on top, and reflowed with hot air using one of those cheap '898D' soldering stations.Surface tension really is your friend and with flux, once up to temperature the chip will move into place. You can very carefully nudge the chip with the end of your tweezers and if it moves back into place (its now sitting on molten solder) you know its done. Check each connection with a continuity tester, one probe on the trace away from the chip, and the other on the side of the chip (QFN''s and NLF often have an exposed by of copper for that pin on the side).I remember being rather nervous about it, but it took maybe 30 seconds total, 10 seconds to heat the chip up. In some ways, quicker than soldering say TQFP32, but there is always a chance that one pad didn't solder. In this case, you can add a tiny but more solder to the pad from the side (and I mean tiny), dab with flux, and reflow. As the chips pad and the PCB pad heats up, it will draw in the tiny solder ball you made on the side to under the pad. I have only had to do this once and that was just because I was being sloppy.I have since used solder paste and had similar results, although it was a bit faster - just quite difficult to control the solder paste flow by hand. As the solder paste already contains flux you can usually just put thin lines across the pads, and four small blobs on the centre pad, plonk the chip on and heat with slow circular motion.