hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
3d printer to pcb miller conversion - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: techninja80
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2022, 03:38:01 am
content: So I have this old 3d printer, I have no idea what the brand was, and have no idea on what the board is. Its worked for me nonstop, and never really had any issues with it so never really needed any of the above info until now. I have converted the old girl to a pcb miller, by just removing the hot, end and attaching a dremel to it. What I would like to use is a z-probe. Is there a way to have an external Z probe, or can I attach one to this board some how. I Believe its just an Arduino behind there.

author: thmjpr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2022, 04:40:34 pm
content: There is no writing on the board?You have a Z+, Y+, and X+, inputs that can be used for whatever you want.Easiest is to figure out what board it is, and look for the manufacturer schematic to determine what IO on the atmel they connect to. Then assign one to Z probe.If you can't find manufacturer schematic you'll have to trace it out yourself or read all the IO, change the switch state, read again, and look for which bit changed.
A Better way to store 3d printer fillerment with recycled choclate tubs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: pcmad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2023, 04:39:46 pm
content: this is how i store my 3d fillerment and its better and reuses tubs that would get binned

author: Lindley
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2023, 08:34:17 pm
content: Good idea, though a bit late as the green bins have now beeen emptied ...We use these containers (uk) kept our PLA good for over a year, just been printing with it, still perfect.https://groceries.asda.com/product/storage-containers/george-home-peel-lid-food-storer-7-l/1000156625705

author: xchg.ca
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2023, 12:02:56 pm
content: Oh wow someone eats a lot of chocolateBut this is great! If you can save them from the bin and reuse or upcucle !I have no access to such container and found these container suit my purpose well, also the are watertight.https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/712O1pj58BL._AC_SL1500_.jpgBut nothing beats your idea, you dont have to buy more plastic you are reusing it !
Micro Swiss NG Direct Drive Extruder - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2022, 12:58:48 am
content: I knew about this new drive but I hadn't ordered one yet. Then last week I got an email from them giving a discount code, so I went for it.https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/micro-swiss-ng-direct-drive-extruderThe only problem is ... it won't simply bolt on my printer.It's designed to bolt on an Ender 3 with the original X axis using the plastic wheels. Mine has been upgraded for a couple of years with a 3D Fused linear rail for all axes. So, I'm going to have a project designing a mounting plate to couple it to the linear rail bearing which has 20mm x 20mm hole pattern. I'll also need to make a new belt clip too.Should be interesting.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2022, 09:31:44 pm
content: Here's a prototype plate I printed using the existing setup I have on the printer. I used a weak 20 % infill for a faster print since it won't be used for more than a few trials. The top two protruding areas with small holes are cable tie points. They may be moved when I see how things fit. The slot just reduces material waste until I get the whole thing right, then it will be removed.The four small holes in a square pattern accept four screws that hold it to the bearing. The two large holes at the top and one "nub" at the bottom fit into the parts on the back of the NG that had to do with the wheels of the original Ender X axis. But in this case the top two will be used to secure the belt clip, and the bottom "pin" will go into an unused hole for extra support.Since this fits the back of the new extruder OK, and using a spare linear rail as verification it fits that, I will plow forward and mount the new NG extruder and see if I can get things going. If it works, I will refine the part once I see how things fit, and print it with the new NG extruder.The final part will have at least 50% infill and be printed in light gray PLA. The good thing is this part isn't near any really hot areas (mostly blocked by the aluminum frame of the NG) so it will work out fine.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2022, 11:08:59 am
content: I made use of the threaded posts on the back where the plastic wheels would have mounted, and the unthreaded hole at the bottom. The two threaded holes accept M5 bolts that go through the belt clamp (also redesigned) and tighten into them. The bottom hole has a "post" going through it from the plate and a screw goes into that from the front.I also cut off all the aluminum parts (except for one on the left side) that were meant to hold the belt - not needed here and got in the way. The one part I left on is what trips the X axis limit switch perfectly.I made several intermediate prototypes before I got it the way I wanted it. The final plate was printed with the NG extruder mounted using an intermediate prototype plate with only 20% infill. The final plate has 50% infill.It works really well and the printed models are better than what I had before.
Waste filament - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2022, 08:55:50 pm
content: Due to crappy design of dehumidifier, I have a couple of reels of 1.75mm filament that is in very short strips. Short enough to just fall off the reel when it's picked up.Seems a shame to bin it all. What could I do with it?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2022, 09:33:31 pm
content: So its already cracked in many places? You can't just dehumidify it again to fix it.Other than injection molding or melting, melting and re-extruding, or using in 3D printer pens, not much I can think of.

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2022, 09:48:35 pm
content: Yep, it is in discrete lengths of 1" to 4". Nicely curved but not extrudable and even too short for a 3D pen.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2022, 01:43:26 am
content: Plenty of options to melt it down but a sort of open lattice tray or mat might work ok with filament bits. There has been other youtube videos along these lines too with other plastics but most involve a shredder. ** Be careful of incurring the wrath of your SO or stinking your house out if you goes tits up too if you are using the kitchen oven

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2022, 11:08:53 am
content: Thanks. It's PLA so shouldn't stink too much. And the grill I use as a PCB oven might be suitable...
Just a test -- please ignore - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2022, 03:17:24 pm
content: https://tinyurl.com/y33ge3puJust a test - This post will be deleted.Sorry for posting here - I didn't know you couldn't delete your own posts. I guess that feature has changed recently.MODS: just delete this - thanks!

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2022, 03:33:30 pm
content: I still have the x to delete my own posts. You can not delete it when it's the Opening Post.However, you can move any threads you started yourself into another section. I think there is a wasted basked or alike section of the forum. Try to move the whole thread there, closest way to delete own OP.
Marlin 2.0.9.3 versus 1.1.9.1 efficiency on 8bit microcontroler - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: pcmad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2022, 02:47:07 am
content: Which Marlin firmware would be more efficient on an 8 bit microcontroller i.e. Marlin 2.0.9.3 versus 1.1.9.1 when I mean efficiency I mean am efficient code running on the CPU a Ram Equivalent on the microcontroller

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 03, 2022, 03:43:42 am
content: Marlin 2.0.9.3 or the last one for the future.If you have a 8bit µP just just turn off some features in the config file.With less horses you have to go light.
thermistor and heatsink compound - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: pcmad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2022, 01:40:13 pm
content: I've just bought a new thermistor for my 3-D printer hot end the previous person who owned the machine put heat sink compound in the hole where the thermistor is located does this contaminate the sensor and give false readings or should that be fine please bear in mind that there is a 2mm bear wire gap from the sensor to the start on the insulationplease not if a was to use heat sink compound it will be the white stuff

author: richnormand
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 02, 2022, 02:11:33 pm
content: I have used silicone based white stuff before for both my 3D printer and thermistors for temperature stabilised diode lasers so I would assume you are OK.The real issue would be to use some electrically conductive compound like the silver or copper based stuff that would shunt the thermistor and give a lower resistance reading.Other thing to look for is that thermal compound tends to dry and cake so make sure the hole is clean and allows the full insertion of the new thermistor.

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2022, 04:25:05 pm
content: The "white stuff" is usually aluminum oxide, zinc oxide, or similar powder in the silicone vehicle that is a good electrical insulator and decent heat conductor. It shouldn't contaminate the sensor.A data sheet:https://www.mgchemicals.com/downloads/tds/tds-860.pdf
Modding ESP32­WROOM­32E in monoprice mini delta V2 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mclute0
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2022, 12:20:23 am
content: I got this new old Monoprice mini delta V2 at Microcenter ($59usd) and it prints pretty good for what it is if you can get past the design flaws. I was looking at the main board and noticed that the ESP32­WROOM­32E should be able to handle bluetooth connections, but it is not implemented. There are plated through hole connections for a 6 pin programming interface so I am wondering if anyone had tried to enable bluetooth so I don't waste my time if it that project is a bust.The hardware is not too bad, but they made some really questionable design decisions.A power brick that can only do 12v 5amp? ohboy!no internal 12v` regulator that I can find? wonderful...One tiny 100uf 32v decoupling capacitor for a system that is pulling close to 8amps without a decent bed heater? ok..and they glued the touch screen to the back of the main board, so much for easily moving the screen to the top of the printer like the V1 version. Just more work I am not sure is really worth it.A few mods and fixes and it prints fast and efficient now, but there are some hidden bugs in that USB/WIFI/UART system that are just bad, and the bed heater couldn't heat jack.The GD32F103 ARM beats the mega out of ATMEGA2560 board. I have an old RAMPS 1.4 board to maybe transplant, but that is a step backwards in a lot of ways...
Water cooled extruder? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 22, 2021, 11:30:42 pm
content: Just saw thishttps://www.biqu.equipment/products/h2o-extruder?variant=39522854862946

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 01:47:10 am
content: It's cool (no pun intended) but really necessary? The fan seems to work fine, what am I going to improve for $172? Do the prints improve? If so I'd like to see a before and after print quality comparison.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 12:53:30 pm
content: The extruder is supposed to be hot. Cooling may be wanted for the transport, but the needs are not that extreme.To get a good speed of the mechanics, a low weight helps - I would consider the water cooling a bit on the heavy side.To improve on the temperature control a better placement of the heater and sensor and maybe more intelligent control would be the more more logical way to go.

author: KaneTW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2022, 03:30:02 pm
content: Watercooling is a must for high-temp filaments and printing sensitive filaments (e.g. PLA) in an enclosed chamber.My Intamsys Pro 410 has a watercooled extruder heat break and it never had issues with filament jams in the extruder. For comparison, the Raise3D Pro2 would jam constantly with longer prints.But if you don't have a printer in the 5-digit range, you don't need to worry about it.
Snapmaker 2.0 3-in-one - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2021, 12:56:15 am
content: Just saw an ad for the Snapmaker 2.0 A350 3-D printer, laser cuter and CNC machine all-in-one. Seems like a reasonable concept. Does anyone have one or know anything about them? It's about $2K with a 10W laser module and CNC bit set.
How to use unipolar stepper motors with a 3d printer? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SmallHuz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2021, 04:35:52 pm
content: I have bought 3 unipolar stepper motor and would like to use them in a 3d printer. I have been reading some articles about half coil configuration, bipolar series coil configuration, complete conversion by means of cutting internal pcb lanes and/or disoldering coil wires and soldering them back in another configuration.Which method mentioned above would be best to use. If not is there any stepper motor drivers designed for unipolar stepper motor for 3d printer. If there is does it needs some sort if modifications or is it just plug and play type. Steppers that I bought are 6 wire Minebea Astrosyn 23km-k343-g01 . This are older steppers with little to none tehnical information about them on the internet.Sorry for my english and thanks in advance.

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2021, 04:58:05 pm
content: if it is six wire you just ignore the center taps and connect it as a bipolar

author: SmallHuz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2021, 05:52:41 pm
content: So basicaly bipolar series configuration as I have wrote.Thank you very much.

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2021, 06:05:15 pm
content: Quote from: SmallHuz on November 15, 2021, 05:52:41 pmyou can also use half the coil, the lower inductance might be an advatage

author: brucehoult
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2021, 10:11:37 pm
content: Quote from: langwadt on November 15, 2021, 04:58:05 pmFive wire seems to work fine just ignoring the common wire, though I've only ever tried it with low power steppers -- the very common and cheap ($1 in volume) 28BYJ48 apparently designed for moving air conditioner unit louvers -- not the big chunky ones needed to accelerate 3D printer mechanisms.I don't *think* there's any great problem if the X and Y coils both try to drive at the same time -- you just get analogue half-stepping :-)
Rigol DS1000Z replacement feet - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2021, 04:08:06 pm
content: Moved to Test Equipment topichttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/msg3909776/#msg3909776
Thingiverse hacked. Change your passwords! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Microdoser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2021, 11:51:28 am
content: Thingiverse has been hacked. If you use the same password anywhere else, change all of them. At the minimum, change your thingiverse password.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2021, 12:13:53 pm
content: Thanks. Yea no notice on the page about this. I've written them about other issues in the past never got any response. The customizer doesn't work. Time to start looking elsewhere.

author: brucehoult
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2021, 12:19:33 pm
content: It was a year ago. I used one of my lowest security passwords there -- one I specifically use for sites that I figure probably won't have great security. What is someone going to do? Upload their own designs under my name? Delete mine? (I still have originals) Make nasty comments using my name. Whatever. They can't do anything financially.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2021, 09:45:53 pm
content: Quote from: brucehoult on October 15, 2021, 12:19:33 pmAll I can think is they'd steal high value accounts then use them to post malicious files or links.Why not use lastpass or similar, easier to autofill a secure password than remembering an insecure one.

author: I wanted a rude username
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2021, 10:30:00 pm
content: Quote from: brucehoult on October 15, 2021, 12:19:33 pmThe greatest risk is to people who reuse the same username and password on other sites. The most convenient solution is to use a password manager ... then you only need to remember one password, but your password on each site is unique.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 15, 2021, 11:39:53 pm
content: TU was by far the most no sense website I encountered.The only good thing is a lot of people are shitting in it....Yes time to find something else.... any suggestions?

author: brucehoult
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 12:49:00 am
content: Quote from: I wanted a rude username on October 15, 2021, 10:30:00 pmMy email and banking sites use different and very secure passwords. Sites where expensive things can be bought and sent to custom addresses (amazon, mouser etc) get the next level: different but based on a pattern. Thingiverse, eevblog, and local pizza shops don't have enough downside to be worth worrying about -- they sure as heck don't use the same passwords as important sites and that's the main thing.
CNC machine g-code - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Gliddenre
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 03, 2021, 11:33:02 pm
content: Hey everyone. I'm new to this site. I don't know if anyone can help but here is my question. Does anyone know what Machine output format is used by a Redonda cnc controller? I think it has a .tap extension. I bought the machine used and cannot contact the previous owner. I hope someone can help.Thank you.

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 04, 2021, 02:23:25 am
content: Welcome to EEVblog forums.I don't know anything about Redonda CNC controllers, but there is a reference to them in another forum post here and almost nothing else useful I could find via a quick Google search.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/cnc-pcb-engraver-machine-review-kindof/From what I could find, I think the CNC controller you are referring to is probably just a parallel port connected motor driver? If so, it requires control via a G-code interpreter on a PC using software like Mach3. Or if it is USB connected, it could be running on an Arduino and using grbl as the G-code interpreter.Either way, .tap is a file name extension sometimes used for G-code. I don't know the history behind the tap extension, but presumably it is related to either "paper tape" as used with very early CNC machines, or possibly a short form of "tool path"?I run a few desktop CNC's including 6040 style controlled by Mach3. I'm happy to try help further if you post some photos of what you have. CNC Zone is another great forum with people specialising in this area.

author: edfarrington93
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2021, 02:08:35 pm
content: I'm not sure about that specific machine, but as long as the program format is correct many machines will accept .NC .TXT and many other extensions. Some machines are particular, some aren't. From what I have seem, many of the more hobby oriented machines are particular about things that industrial machines aren't, which seems kind of backwards, but leave it to an overachieving engineer to totally screw up something that should be straightforward and uncomplicated. You can always try sending it as an .NC file and see if it will accept it, that's the standard extension for most industrial CNC machines.
Odd STL Issue When Using Support Material - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bostonman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2021, 03:25:03 am
content: In the attached contains a file name: Anet_A8_Y-axis_anchor_for_T20_pulleyI created the gcode and printed it, however, one side of the legs was thinner than the other. Initially I thought my printer aborted, but, when I looked at the stl file, I noticed this was how it was created.If I remove supporting material, the part looks normal, but, when I add support material, I see a space exists between the legs (or forks - whatever you want to call them).This space seems to be some void that is causing more support material to be printed and reducing the leg thickness.Can someone look at it and tell me what's wrong because I've tinkered with numerous settings and can't solve the issue.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2021, 07:10:33 am
content: I get a couple of errors on the STL at the end of the upper arm. So depending on what slicer you are using run a repair on it and see if it helps.Just for fun (and practice) I will see about repairing it and turning it back into a solid model in Fusion.edit try this repaired one

author: bostonman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2021, 01:43:24 pm
content: I use a slicer called Slic3r and I didn't see a repair option (else I would have tried it), but will confirm this tonight.I'm curious how a problem part made it onto Thiniverse without being caught all this time, but, a bigger question (just for my own knowledge): what caused that gap to occur?I'm grateful it wasn't my printer that aborted because I recently upgraded to the latest version of Marlin - and I'm working on a leveling sensor. So I feared it was a bug in the firmware.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2021, 01:03:09 am
content: Download the Prusa fork of sli3er it is included. You can also transfer your setups across if you want to give it a run for slicing. I haven't looked at sli3er for some time as Prusa was driving the development well in front of the core so I just stuck with it.https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/Thingiverse as you are finding is a bit of a crapshoot when it comes to models. A lot of this is related to posting STL's instead of say STEP (fairly universal CAD format) and the conversion into those STL's by suspect means with no error checking. If over time Thingiverse was to stop allowing STL's would be a good thing IMO.

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2021, 11:51:01 pm
content: Just a thought, and maybe the tools you've already got can do this better but:have you tried importing the stl in to blender and using blender's 3d printing tools (an addon which can be enabeld in the preferences tab) to check for manifoldness, isolated vertices and distorted faces? it might catch meshing errors which slicers can't.
Ender3 V2 Bed Surface Tear - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Lindley
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2021, 08:47:09 am
content: Hi,Am a newbie to 3D printing and so far just printed small objects like bed level calibration and Boaty which always came off the bed easily.The other day we printed four identical items with larger base areas together with the same PLA (Crealitys own brand purchased with the printer ) at 200/60c , when cold we tried to remove them but very difficult and the third one actually came off with the bed surface attached .The bed surface is so well bonded to the print we can hardly remove any of it with a sharp blade.The bed has only been cleaned with IPA as per Crealitys manual.Have anyone experienced such problems or know why these larger models stuck so fast ?We have an Overture Bed Surface mat that came with another filament roll, would that or any other bed give better results ?

author: gmb42
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2021, 10:34:20 am
content: What printer? For the CR6 at least, possibly other Creality printers, they state to NOT use IPA on the textured glass bed just dish soap and water.This works well for me, just need to take care to not touch the build surface after cleaning with fingers as the oils will reduce adhesion.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2021, 08:19:15 pm
content: You did say "when cold" but how long did you wait? Usually if you wait long enough the print will pop off the glass by itself.But I will admit to being impatient and pulling a print off once, ended up tearing out a chunk of glass.

author: Lindley
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2021, 10:39:10 am
content: Quote from: gmb42 on September 21, 2021, 10:34:20 amAs said its a Creality Ender3 v2 , the supplied manual states to clean the bed surface with IPA.Though had since seen some comments on the web to use soap and water so posted that question in Crealitys forum , but no clear answer ! half saying IPA half soap and water.So whats a newbie to 3D printing supposed to do, ignore the makers printed manual instructions ??!!Quote from: thm_w on September 21, 2021, 08:19:15 pmIt was a print for 4 feet extenders which took 10 hours and finished in the middle of the night so the bed was stone cold at about 18c when I tried to remove.Thinking back to some of the small test objects I tried earlier, did one or two with a raft where the raft was at least as big as these feet extenders yet it came off the bed as easy as anything ?Have just done a couple of Bed Level prints and they seem fine so nothing gone out there ?
My CR10 V2 is now all in one and direct drive :) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 20, 2021, 10:31:34 am
content: My CR10 V2 is now all in one and direct drive (thanks to this thingyverse projecthttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4347673)See pics below, I ran out of red for the last bit, hence printed in greyAs I have a spare stepper driver on the SKR 1.4 Turbo, now have each z axis motor on their own hence have enabled Z stepper Auto AlignEverything took much much longer than I anticipated (as usual) but pleased with the result
Flashforge Dreamer Disassembly - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cemelec
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2021, 01:25:11 pm
content: I'm interested in using bigger PLA spools (1Kg) on my Flashforge Dreamer.The OmniStand Adjustable Filament Spool Stand on Thingiverse looks quite promising -https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:652415However to remove the existing spool holder & fit new one I need access to the underneath section of the printer - there are screws on top (accessible) but (I believe) nuts underneath which are not.Before I go it alone and start dismantling I wonder if anyone else has done this before?Grateful for any tips!

author: cemelec
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2021, 06:00:04 pm
content: In case anyone else was interested, I found this:The user had a different problem, but it seems to answer my question

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2021, 06:19:39 pm
content: Forget the Thingiverse spool holders. Or any printed ones, IMO. I have a dreamer and tried most designs, from the ones with rollers, bearings, hangers, you name it. What I've settled on is shown in the photos - some plastic plumbing pipe.All the joints are glues (I used hotmelt but whatever works) except for one of the horizontal ones, which is how you load a spool. To fix that in place I put a 3mm hole right through and then stick half a cotton bud in there. No particular reason for a bud, just that the shaft fits the hole and the cotton bud stops it falling out.Of course, this is an external spool. I found that 1kg spools just came in too many shapes and sizes to fit inside decently, plus they restrict your attempts to prise things off the bed.

author: cemelec
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2021, 11:43:31 am
content: Thanks for the info.I think I will try to make some sort of metal bracket and mill / turn a delrin spool holder, I already have all the materials and machinery / tools for that.I already bought a 1 Kg reel of PLA from Flashforge (Amazon) to try as they are one of the very few vendors who fully detail the spool dimensions, and it will fit internally.Buying 1 Kg vs 0.5 Kg is about 30% cheaper, and of course its more convenient

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2021, 02:02:58 pm
content: An alternative is to find a spool that fits your requirement, and just respool from a new supply onto it. You could even reuse your half-kilo spools to do that. Of course, it would be a pain if you wanted to change filament before the spool is emptied, but you can buy more 'perfect' spools
Printer paused mid-print and then skipped a layer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Ranayna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2021, 12:02:48 pm
content: I have had a print failure today where i am not sure what the issue might have been.Two hours into a 7 hour print, i noticed that the printer paused for a couple of seconds. Something that i have never seen before. It just paused and stopped moving, the fans kept running, their noise did not change, and also no noises that i noticed from the steppers.It resumed though after some time. At first i thought that nothing happed, but on subsequent layers the printer dragged extruded filament around corners, that is when I aborted the print.For me it looked like the printer just skipped a layer, or parts of a layer, and subsequent layers could not stick properly anymore, causing the printer to drag the filament around corners.I do not think it's a mechanical issue at that specific height. I am now printing another part, and that is already above the height where the issue occured. The printer has been recently relubricated.Could that be a corrupted GCODE file? A dying or damaged SD Card? I can't see anthing special on the original GCODE file that i have on harddisk when i look at it. I can't access the file on the SD card at the moment since the printer is currently printing.Printer: Prusa i3 MK3s+Slicer: Prusa SlicerFilament: Prusament PETG

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2021, 09:31:23 pm
content: If you use the same SD card again, and it went further, it doesn't seem like an SD issue. You'd think even if it buffered, or hit some transient temperature condition and paused it should simply resume ok.https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/545

author: Ranayna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 08:31:11 am
content: Sorry, took me a while to come back to this.When i loaded the GCODE directly from the SD-Card into a GCODE viewer, the issue became blatantly obvious: The GCODE was really missing a line.The original on harddisk does not have that line and looks fine.My takeaway from this: i will now always check the file after copying it to the card. That was actually the first time with removable media that i got a file corruption like that.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 01:35:02 pm
content: Then time to replace the card, as it likely has a failed location that the controller detected on read, and has simply marked out and swapped with a spare block, causing the missing line. You could test the card with a few dozen write cycles that fill it up, and each time issue a trim command to get the controller to run through all the spare cells, but if it has bad blocks already it is near the end of the write endurance for that particular card. They are not expensive, and not too reliable either long term.
Anyone know what this connector is called please? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 25, 2021, 11:18:47 pm
content: Hi allI have 2.54 jst connectors which fit all but one of the sockets in the attached pic, but I don’t have the ones for where the heater plugs in (circled in red).Anyone know what sort of crimp connectors I need to buy please?Thanks

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 26, 2021, 07:55:34 am
content: Someone on Reddit asked same question.JST VH 2-Pin Pitch: 3.96 mmhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/pzsmocn-Housing-Connector-Adapter-Terminal/dp/B089QRPTYS/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=JST+VH+2-Pin+Pitch%3A+3.96+mm&qid=1629964432&sr=8-1
Anet A8 Door Hinge Upgrade - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bostonman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2021, 01:46:34 am
content: Has anyone done this upgrade?It looks quite useful, however, I question the heatsink not being completely mounted to the extruder.I'm guessing the heatsink doesn't do much since it's not mounted tightly. My guess: it's used to prevent the air from blowing directly into the extruder and not necessarily for cooling.The door hinge upgrade looks useful, but, as I stated, the heatsink basically rests against the extruder. If it's meant to draw heat away from the extruder, it seems this will cause less thermal conduction.

author: Canis Dirus Leidy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2021, 08:40:34 pm
content: Quote from: bostonman on May 25, 2021, 01:46:34 amIdid a similar thingwith my old Anet A6. The good old MK8 did not feel at all that his heatsink was removed and worked safely for more than a year, having survived, in the process, the conversion of Anet into a Hypercube.
layer shifting - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 08, 2021, 01:57:09 pm
content: Hi all, printers been perfect all year, then I changed main board to skr 3e mini and tft3.5. must have knocked something in the process as I now have layer shifting grrr.Attached is a closeup of 4 sides of a chep calibration cube that I stretched to 60mm in the Z direction (wanted something quick to print)Also attached is a closeup of spice jar rack I was trying to print first, printers been fine been perfect before this.Should I be looking at the X axis to fix this please?Many thanks

author: AmnevaR
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2021, 03:20:40 pm
content: Hi, I'm not an expert, but I think that something is loose on the X axis (assuming it's a cartesian type printer) . It could be something easy - like the belt isn't properly tensioned or the grab screw that holds pulley on the motor is loose.

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 09, 2021, 01:58:15 pm
content: Thanks, checked the belt and the wheels, all seems OK, as it only happened after replacing the main board, I decided I was going back to the old one.But I stupidly got black smoke to appear on old board grrrr (thread in repair section).Should have left it alone lol

author: Microdoser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 09:09:06 am
content: Layer shifts and ghosting are problems caused by your print speed being too high
Grocery store PLA is weird - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2021, 08:11:10 pm
content: Just a few days ago i finished my third 3D printer and wanted to test it out yet had no filament, until i remembered that i had some PLA from the grocery store.I don't know what flavor of PLA it is but it's meant for 3D pens and was located in the toy section and comes in a pack of 3 different colours in 3m lenghts each, 9m in total.3m of filament is enough for a small test so i decided to print a test cube to see if my settings are correct.The print came in undersize, turns out i forgot that i have 16T pulleys, not 20T.But the plastic was super weird. I decided to give it a squeeze with some pliers to see how tough it is and it immediately cracked apart.AFAIK normally prints separate at the layers but in this case the cracks went every way and layer lines couldn't even be distinguished.The surface at the crack looked like glass - completely smooth. I thought that maybe the plastic is just brittle but with a knife it cuts like butter.Printed another test cube with some pink coloured filament and when pulling it off my glass bed it fractured the bottom of the print (and also pulled some glass off dang it).The fracture caused the bottom to become opalescent, which i thought was really neat.I'm very new to 3D printing still but i thought this was cool enough to share.Ps: last 4 pics are the opalescent print from different angles.

author: vintagepc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2021, 01:25:29 am
content: Are you sure it's actually PLA (or pure)?Some manufacturers will put in additives so that it is more suited to 3D pens than printers to lower the temperature at which it prints and so that it flows better (more on this in a bit)Many pen filaments are also actually PCL which has a much lower melting point so it is considered "safer" for a pen where kids may be handling it; while you can still burn yourself at 60C it's obviously going to be a lot less severe than if with a pen tip at 180 or 200C.As for the cracking... PLA is brittle and will fracture like that. If it's breaking in this way instead of along the layer lines it means you have good layer adhesion and might even be printing on the "too hot" side for the material - essentially cooking it and making it more brittle. I'd suggest running off a temperature tower if you want to continue using it.The fact it took a chunk of glass with it makes me suspect you may have a blend containing PETG as this material is particularly notorious for bonding VERY well to glass. (and it's also sometimes used to give those "silk" filaments their particular flow characteristics and opalescence.)

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2021, 12:26:36 pm
content: Quote from: vintagepc on June 25, 2021, 01:25:29 amSays PLA on the packet but i don't know what other spices they might be mixing in.Regardless, i won't be using it anymore because i received the 10kg spool of PLA i had ordered.
OctoPrint vs direct from printer's SD card - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Bassman59
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2021, 04:06:57 am
content: I have an Ender 3 Pro. The first batch of prints I did with it were done directly from the printer's SD card. They all seemed to work quite well, I think. I sliced with Cura and used mostly Hatchbox standard PLA.I set up OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi 4B for all of the neat features that offers. But I think the prints are "not as good" as from the SD card directly. And maybe I'm just fooling myself.Does anyone have opinions on this? Web searcher turn up five-year-old anecdotes. I'd like some less ancient anecdotesThanks!

author: dl6lr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2021, 11:12:57 am
content: Quote from: Bassman59 on May 14, 2021, 04:06:57 amI assume you are running the same gcode from SD and via octoprint for comparison? Check if your printer experiences stuttering when printing via octoprint. If yes, check the serial rate, I think the default is 115200 for the Ender, I am using 250000 with a usual Arduino MEGA256/RAMPS1.4 running Marlin. And make sure your gcode is clean, some slicers produce lots of very small segments, if your firmware supports arcs, try these (there is a Cura plugin ArcWelder).

author: Bassman59
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2021, 09:22:08 pm
content: Quote from: dl6lr on May 14, 2021, 11:12:57 amYes, same code.I don't think there's any stuttering, not even with a long narrow piece. I believe the data rate is 115,200 and I should probably bump up to the max.For slicing I use either Cura or PrusaSlicer, latest version of each. I tried ArcWelder and it made a mess of a test print, and I'm not sure whether it was just bad luck or what. (These machines are finicky!) But I did notice that both Cura and PrusaSlicer seem to already take advantage of the ability of firmware to draw arcs, as I watched how the extruder moved when doing a circle and it did not seem stuttery at all. Seems to me that the programmers at both Ultimaker and Prusa understand how to do proper arcs. ArcWelder did make the files smaller.Maybe this is why the anecdotes about OctoPrint being problematic vs SD card are so old ... it's worked itself out.

author: dl6lr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2021, 10:02:48 pm
content: Quote from: Bassman59 on May 14, 2021, 09:22:08 pmAt least Cura does not support Arcs out of the box, only with postprocessing via ArcWelder. As STL inputs never have arcs in it (they are composed of polygons), the slicer does not produce arcs. And SuperSlicer, a fork of PrusaSlicer,https://github.com/supermerill/SuperSlicer/issues/324proposes arc support via integrated ArcWelder.

author: Bassman59
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2021, 07:22:46 pm
content: Quote from: dl6lr on May 14, 2021, 10:02:48 pmThanks -- I will try the next things I do with ArcWelder enabled and see what happens.
3D Metal Printing Resources and Discussion - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2021, 11:28:30 am
content: This is a bit out there as far as owning the equipment but with more and more small/short run options might be worth making a list. So this post sort of reserved for resources and links.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2021, 11:30:47 am
content: Kick off post and webinar from an Aussie company who makes Metal Printers.Might be a little Fusion 360 workflow heavy but might also be interesting if they get into the companies tech.https://www.spee3d.com/webinar link
Bug Fixes & Releases - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nfmax
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2021, 10:34:15 am
content: A couple of news items:FreeCad 0.19.1 is now finally, officially released for all platforms and available for downloadSindoh 3DWOX Desktop v1.4.1142.2 crashes when generating Gcode, on macOS. The problem seems to be that the installer writes an invalid value somewhere in the default settings files, which causes an uncaught divide-by-zero exception. The work-around is to 'reset profile' after installation and before doing anything else. I've reported it to Sindoh, and they have just sent me a fixed version to test out. Also
Compiling and Editing Marlin 2.0 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2021, 05:01:34 am
content: Placing these in their own topic as my Marlin 1.X brain got blown up today as 2.0 is nothing like the same beast to play with including a new to me Microsnot Visual Studio based environment and no longer can we use the Arduino IDE. Not to painful but still someCouple of very helpful how to guides mainly for 3D printingDownloading the required bits and CompilingBeginners guide to editing Marlin firmware **Can no longer use the Arduino IDE for this!

author: thmjpr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2021, 05:39:42 am
content: The nice thing with VSCode is you can have a dedicated project folder just for Marlin, with only the specific extensions you need.Arduino IDE is not as portable or convenient in that aspect. Some settings are not even stored per project basis.The official guide is good as well, seems even simpler since I last checked, with some auto-build extension:https://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install.html
Composite molding with 3D printed forms - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2021, 07:03:25 am
content: I have been meaning to give this a go for a small glider fuselage design but timeThe first video is 3D print direct to product and the second one is print to mold to product.For Electronics one off contoured forms or even pre insert some knurl nuts to screw bits into it after curing. Or for a twist on this vacuum forming into 3D molds or plugs also works well.Plenty more on the channel on this sort of process and loads of other composite processes and while a commercial business not to heavy on the buy from me
Cascade Studio - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: RenThraysk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2021, 01:05:45 am
content: This is 3D modelling related rather than specifically 3D printing. But I thought it was cool enough to mention.It's a web based programmer's 3D CAD modeller in the style of OpenSCAD. The ability to create UI elements (checkboxes, buttons and sliders) who's values directly related to model is neat.https://zalo.github.io/CascadeStudio/PS: Click Evaluate to get the model to render.Github:https://github.com/zalo/CascadeStudio

author: BroMarduk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 07, 2021, 02:25:05 am
content: Definitely worth a deeper look. Not having much luck getting the 'gizmos' to work, but probably just need more time playing. Thanks for sharing.
Looking for a printerer  just  Not a Printer yet. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: smudge
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 15, 2021, 10:25:57 am
content: Just was wondering if there's a person interested in doing the odd small print for me that lives across the ditch.. Rather pay them if they are good instead of the US or Mars. Could go down the path of buying my own but I would have to sell the wife for the space.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2021, 02:26:02 am
content: Best you define WHICH ditch for a startThere will also be locals who will run small print services in most major Metro areas for $

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 16, 2021, 04:37:19 am
content: Since the Op is in Auckland, I daresay they are referring to the Tasman.I also would have expected there should besomeoneover there who does this sort of thing...

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2021, 04:48:24 am
content: No Flag and not my job to know or checkAuckland should be a no brainerhttps://www.google.com/search?q=3d+printing+services+Aukland&rlz=1C1CHBF_enAU858AU858&oq=3d+printing+services+Aukland&aqs=chrome..69i57.10068j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8Or maybe put a wanted in the Buy and Sell section.

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 16, 2021, 06:15:48 am
content: Quote from: beanflying on March 16, 2021, 04:48:24 amJust looked at their profile.