hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Bought my 1st Pick & place - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2016, 04:57:08 am
content: I hope can start small batch on a quick wayhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/IC-SMT-Pick-up-Place-Vacuum-Sucking-Pen-3-Suction-Headers-Hand-Tool-/371571660069?hash=item5683659525:g:YTkAAOSwxp9W4ZDh

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2016, 05:02:56 am
content: Just bought one to pick and place my dog's fleas (I hope)

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2016, 05:07:15 am
content: I tried one of those passive vacuum pens but had hard time to make it to work. Ended up with a cheap electric vacuum pump which works much better. Good luck.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2016, 12:05:36 pm
content: These things are totally useless, apart from as a source of a handle and tips to make a proper tool from. You need a foot-operated pump that supplies continuous suction.See my viddeo for more info :

author: harry4516
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 12:04:02 am
content: Mike, very well done video, many good ideas.The trick with the double sided sticky tape brings me on an idea for my PnP machine.When sticked precisely (by the holes in the 8mm tape) the machine can pick it up directly from the tape,a good solution for short tapes without reels.Currently I put short 8mm tapes into a groove to hold them in place.But when I remove the cover tape, some parts are jumping off due to vibrations, especially if plastic tapes are used.Now i will stick the 8mm tapes on the double sided sticky tape which holds it strong enough,thanks for this idea.And yes, these cheap sucking pens are totally useless.
BOREY-TECH PNP Machines. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2015, 10:20:35 am
content: Hi, i found these machines from a company in China. for the money these Pick and Place machines seem pretty good value.The small ones start about about $4k US ( plus feeders ) and include vision..http://en.boreytech.com/a/product/taishi/32.html?cut=22I'm going to check it out when I'm in china next but was wondering if anyone had seen them first.

author: Gary.M
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2016, 12:30:08 am
content: I went looking and while their website is OK there are links to youtube videos that don't work and an Aliexpress store that is empty. There are recent videos on youtube that seem to be from an agent (Antrix Associates) though. The machines look good. From what I can gather this 40 feeder machine is around US$6-7000

author: cgroen
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 25, 2016, 07:39:58 am
content: is it my eyes, or are most of the ICs rotated ?(or is it the angle/camera that makes it look so ?)

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2016, 09:29:10 am
content: Wonder why so much air noise ? Maybe using a venturi vacuum generator.Pity they didn't copy Neoden's trick of imagnig all 4 heads in one go.And does it only support feeders on one side?

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2016, 09:32:08 am
content: Just found this vid of a more serious version with 4 cameras and conveyor, but still looks to have limited feeder count.

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2016, 09:44:33 am
content: i'm becoming a bit of a fan of the TVM.. Looking forward to seeing how TSThermal Techs go.
Big general PCB or two smaller ones? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dansku
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2016, 09:47:26 am
content: Manufacturing question,I am working in a project where I am going to build two pcbs that have similar components in it.Let's say the first one have one uC with 5 transistors, the second has the same uC with 3 transistors and one relay.For manufacturing costs, do you think would be better to have one pcb with some empty footprints or make two pcbs?Thank you

author: pix3l
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2016, 10:00:45 am
content: What matters a lot in this case is the number of devices you would like to make.. Also if the components are SMD/TH for one time start-up costs considering SMD stencils etc

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 04, 2016, 10:14:02 am
content: One PCB with empty footprints most likely will be cheaper unless you make them in high volume and price is calculated per board area, not as max size allowed.

author: dansku
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2016, 10:30:13 am
content: Let's say for volumes around 20k, I think in this case the setup costs become not super high. Mostly smd components.Thanks

author: technotronix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2016, 02:13:47 pm
content: This depends on your specific requirement.If their no need to separate a single PCB into two and also cost is not matter for you then considering reliability, flexibility, repeatation, rework and efficiency you can go with single one only.Well, this is my calculation, this can not be 100% convenient to others.
PCB Alignment conundurum... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: k4rlhp
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 08:54:55 am
content: I have this odd issue.The PCB transparency layers do not align. Period.The design is done on Eagle, latest version (7.6), PCB measures 91x141mmBasically, if you look at the photos, the top edge of the dimension rectangle on the top and bottom layers are aligned perfectly.If you now look at the left edge of the dimension rectangle, you see how the top layer veers right towards the bottom edge.I'm using vellum media since it gives the best resolution and consistency, I have used this method on hundreds of prints.However, the usual design is smaller than this and the alignment has not proven a big issue before.The conundurum is that no matter what I do, the deviation is almost constant!Things I've done:- change printer (similar model, different printer: Samsung M2026 and 2026W, different batches too)- change media (vellum, plain paper, 4 kinds of OHP films, vellum backed with plain paper, pre-cooked vellum)- used mirror setting on both, Eagle and printer driver- used upside down on mirrored layer in Eagle.- printed top layer WITHOUT mirror and mirrored the vellum itself.- printed larger batches of layers (6x both layers) and tried to do the best match: turns out the distortion is basically constantWhat I find perplexing is that printing without mirror and manually mirroring the vellum produces the exact same distortion and not distortion to the opposite direction...What do you think? Should I head out for a new printer or is something fishy going on?Or have I cooked my brain trying to make this work and now I'm missing something obvious?Ordering PCB's is not an option really, prototype cycle becomes too long.Thanks,

author: ovnr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 09:15:39 am
content: Have you tried printing it from a different program? Export it, then rasterize it and print from something like Photoshop. That also lets you print both layers on a single piece of paper, which means a lower likelihood of the scaling being off.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 09:48:03 am
content: Try printing one of the sides rotated by 180 degrees. If distortion is constant, then it should match on both sides.

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 09:50:42 am
content: Try turning off your copper pours and print, see if they line up then, you might be experiencing some paper shrinkage, I would imagine less toner less shrinkage so if it lines up without the pours, or lines up better, that might confirm.

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2016, 12:21:01 pm
content: Print from a gerber viewer.Even Eurocircuits calculates different prices for gerbers than .brd files. There is some funny business with the annular rings.Wouldn't be surprised if there's some more rounding going on.
How to design plated edge pads? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lensdigital
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 02:07:02 pm
content: Hi!I'm trying to make similar edge in Eagle:It's kind of a combo of plated holes and half holes and pads. I'm not entirely sure how to draw this in Eagle, maybe someone knows existing library that has this kind of part? Doesn't have to be same number of pins, I can modify it. I wanted to make sure that my PCB house (iTead) can make PCBs out of it tooIt actually looks like this:

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 06:00:34 pm
content: HiThe magic term for that structure is "castellation".Since you are plating around the edge of the board, it's not "obvious" to the board fabricator what you are doing. Based on a normal Gerber file, he has no way to tell if it is edge plated or simply two pads on each side of the board. If there is a standard way to convey this to the fab, I am not aware of it. I've always seen it done with a note on the drawing. Yes it *is* clunky. Somebody else may have a better solution.One thing to consider -- This is not a "normal" thing to do on a pc board. We do it on a lot of our boards, but that rules out a lot of board houses for fabricating them. The net effect (especially in small volume / quick turn) is a significant cost adder. It's not just the adder at the shop you wound up with. It's their price compared to the "other guy" who would have been much cheaper to start with.Bob

author: lensdigital
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 07:36:51 pm
content: Thanks! I searched castellation and iTead and it looks like at leastone personhad success with themSo basically if I put header on the edge (crossing Di mention layer) it should be cut in half (hopefully) right?

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 07:55:40 pm
content: Quote from: lensdigital on June 16, 2016, 07:36:51 pmHiIf you try to (essentially) put plated through holes on the edge and then cut them in half with the boundary, that *should* create a DRC error. If it does not on your end, it should create an error when the PCB fab reviews the files. They really will not know what you want without some sort of instructions.The way we do it is with a note on the board drawing: "Castellation, see section 16". Section 16 is a mechanical drawing of what we are after. It is part of about 15 pages of documents (plus the Gerber files) that go out with each board design.Bob
Hard lense LEDs vs. Soft lense - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: viji_rookie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2016, 04:37:37 pm
content: Does anyone experienced failures like in pcb quality check after LEDs soft lense deformed !? Does this is failure mode associated with LED Soft lense material or the PCB soldering profile we should be focusing ??

author: D3f1ant
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2016, 07:53:30 pm
content: The machine nozzle can easily damage the soft lens so make sure your using the correct nozzle and that the part dimensions are very accurately configured.Moisture damage is also common, don't ignore that msl3 rating on sensitive parts, lenses can actually pop off.The oven profile should of course be correct too, I'm not sure a slightly too hot profile would damage the lens.

author: elecman14
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 15, 2016, 08:04:33 pm
content: I have seen poor PCB handling cause the bond wires in a soft lens led to deform and cause intermittent failure. Going through your process from start to where you see your failure may show where the problem happened at. Pay special attention to any steps a human interacts with a PCB.As D3f1ant said I also echo paying attention to the MSL ratings and also the age of the parts. Make sure you are not using a really old reel. If you suspect the part it could be sent of to the manufacturer for failure analysis.One other thought. The reel packaging should also be examined. I have seen parts that have been damaged when the reel was miss handled (ex.. dropped onto a cement floor.) If the reel can be significantly deformed and the pocket tape can be pressed into the soft lens that could also lead to your failure.

author: viji_rookie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 04:42:56 am
content: Thank you both for helping me here to understand. I will get with our contract manufacturers to understand the things they take under such situations. But I have a question on MSL ratings vs. Flamability compliance from part manufacturers in datasheet. In order to go reflow soldering process. How does both ratings should be considered. I mean do we have any recommendations over both ratings considerations ??

author: viji_rookie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 04:46:21 am
content: Quote from: D3f1ant on June 15, 2016, 07:53:30 pmThat's what happened with me - lenses got popped out ... Serious for me to take care nothing to enters inside the LED.
LED SMT standard packages - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: danmcb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2016, 04:21:51 pm
content: What are the standard package sizes for SMT LEDs? the only one I can find searching is PLCC-2, but searching for that on Farnell only finds a handful of products from many thousands. Are there not standard footprints that are common across manufacturers? Or is Farnell product database just in a bit of a mess here?Would be nice to design in a LED knowing that there are plenty of options for suppliers. Should be possible, no?

author: chicken
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2016, 05:17:41 pm
content: There are plenty that fit into standard 0603, 0805 footprints. Check the package filter on Digi-Key.http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/optoelectronics/led-indication-discrete/524729?k=&pkeyword=&pv69=3

author: danmcb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2016, 10:41:07 am
content: thanks chicken! dunno why farnell don't have that filter ...
Is This Pricing for a Big Board Too Good to Be True? --- Gold Phoenix in China - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Potomac
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2016, 10:42:04 am
content: I'm beginning to explore the PCB fabrication options for a "one-off" prototype board I am planning that will be quite large. It will be about 30 x 30 cm so I can test 16 optical sensors simultaneously. I'll probably have to go through several iterations, so I want to keep costs low. It just needs to work as intended --- I don't mind aesthetic things like smudged silkscreens, etc.I found the PCB Shopper website that allows you to compare prices around the world. I attached a screenshot below of the prices I found for my projectI was shocked to see that Gold Phoenix offered to print just 1 board for $110 inclusive of 3-day FedEx shipping. No testing services are offered at that price, but still seems low.My question is very simple. Is there some fine print I'm missing on this? Does it sound like a bad idea to go with Gold Phoenix? Caveat emptor?They have gotten some decent reviews on both PCB Shopper (2 positive) and this blog:http://www.macdweller.org/2012/06/15/review-gold-phoenix-pcb/4/(Note: You can see more on my project here... currently working on adding capacitors and other elements to keep the circuit stable:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/should-i-be-using-a-constant-current-or-constant-voltage-device-for-my-project/msg948298/#msg948298)

author: Potomac
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2016, 11:33:12 am
content: I compared the price of a 30 cm x 30 cm monoboard to 4 8 x 16 boards below

author: Farley
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2016, 12:00:15 pm
content: I've used Gold Phoenix a couple of times and have not experienced any issues. I remember that they apparently charge by the panel. You get however many boards will fit on that panel for the $110 price.If you send them an email with your Gerbers they will give you a firm price.

author: station240
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 10, 2016, 10:33:48 am
content: When Sparkfun still owned BatchPCB, it was Gold Phoenix that actually produced the boards.
PCB design and maufacuture - Sydney - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: robshearing
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 09, 2016, 04:51:04 am
content: Hi,I'm working on a project that requires some (2000) pcb's to be designed and manufactured. I have built up a working prototype but I need to find an experience pcb designer to layout the board and get it ready for manufacture. I work in Sydney and I really want to find a local contractor or vendor to help out.The circuit is fairly simple the parts list is:AVR (ATMEGA 32U4)Capacitive touch sensor (MPR121)Power regulator and battery charger (LiIon)Battery chargerPiezo speakerLED's with drivers - possibly 74000 LogicI have basic knowledge of EE - enough to build and program the protototype with Arduino bootloader but I need help from a professional designer who has experienced with circuit layout, component sourcing and manufacturing.If anyone can recommend someone or if someone wants some freelance work please let me know.Thanks!

author: glenenglish
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2016, 10:23:44 am
content: Hi Robmight be able to help you, probably using me for that is like using a A-bomb to kill an ant, but I'm also probably quite efficient..I have the pro tools...contact directglenat cortexrf.com.au

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 09, 2016, 12:06:03 pm
content: Try:http://airborn.com.au/http://www.kean.com.au/

author: robshearing
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 10, 2016, 12:10:53 am
content: Thanks guys!

author: pcbfox
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2016, 04:00:19 pm
content: Hello Rob ,Maybe I can help you , we have a team in China , may can help you on the pcb layout and the manufacturing .we can contact by evan<at>younghe-tech.com .
Enclosures boxes and the like - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2016, 06:04:15 am
content: I have a need for some plastic boxes ( IP67). ( 220 x 80 x70 mm).Plan to import them.Was wondering if there are other interested parties and what size boxes and quantities might be needed.

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2016, 06:47:22 am
content: So... No takers?Anyway, my boxes are on the way.Hope to have them in hand in about a weeks time.

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2016, 11:29:26 pm
content: Boxes have arrived.Local price AUD18.-- landed cost USD7.8

author: sparkswillfly
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2016, 02:52:37 am
content: Any review?
Bubbly PCB track problem (80-90’s) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: @rt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2016, 12:31:38 pm
content: Hi Guys,I have two identical retro boards from the early 90’s where one is uncoated, and the other is green and the tracks are bubbly.There is air/gas between the copper and the substrate, even though the copper is still continuous and intact, and the board works ok.Meanwhile, the unprotected board looks greatI’m hoping someone can give me the industry term for this PCB problem to help in describing it to piers in the collector world,as I’ve also seen it on older arcade boards, and retro computing.Cheers, Brek.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 21, 2016, 12:44:12 pm
content: Those are not bubbles. I guess you have a board without solder mask which was soldered with solder wave. Then it was coated with protective lacquer. What you consider being bubbles is just solder on the tracks.

author: @rt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2016, 12:50:49 pm
content: Ok, thanks. They don’t push down so I can’t say you’re wrongThe green one would probably be the better board of the two in that case.

author: @rt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2016, 03:09:07 pm
content: Ah ha! You’re busted!Well you’re right about my board, but this original Apple 1 board has the problem,and described by the seller in the description as bubbling and peeling off.http://www.ebay.com/itm/282050295252?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 01, 2016, 03:28:48 pm
content: Quote from: @rt on June 01, 2016, 03:09:07 pmQuote from: @rt on May 21, 2016, 12:31:38 pmQuoteEbay board have different problem, not what you described.

author: jahonen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2016, 05:43:17 am
content: I think this is due to how solder mask were applied. Non-SMOBC soldermask is applied after the HASL, so when board is wave soldered, part of the solder penetrates under the solder mask and produces the "bubbly track". Nowadays, the common SMOBC (solder mask over bare copper) soldermask is applied before any finishing plating, so solder can't penetrate under it and thus no bubbly tracks.Regards,Janne

author: knks
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 01:54:04 am
content: Dave has video about this. Starts at about 6:00
proper lights for exposing photo resist for pcb - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Dan Moos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2016, 01:06:46 am
content: Ok, I'm gonna try the photo resist method.I happen to have what I think is the perfect light fixture. Its a high quality aquarium fixture that holds 4 21" T5 flourescent bulbs. The fixture is on 4 legs such that the pcb would sit about 3" under it.It also has a built in timer, that can change which bulb combo is lit at specific intervals. While I doubt switching bulb combos is needed, the ability to have the lights on a timer seems helpful.Ok, my question is the bulbs. I know UV is what is needed, but I also know that many types of bulbs acan be used.The bulbs that are currently in the fixture are all different types, a couple for making the fish look nice, and a couple for promoting plant growth. There is also some bluish LED lighting in there. There are also decent reflectors behind the bulbs.The bulbs are labeled as follows:T5 HO 420/460 24 W (Hg)T5 HO 6000k 24W AWT5 HO 10,000k 24W AJT5 HO Roseate 24W BCAre any of these any good, and if not what do I need?Another question. Is there any danger from over exposing a board? Lets say my bulbs are good, but not optimum. Can I ruin a board by exposing it too long in an attempt to compensate for iffy lights?t

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 07, 2016, 01:49:38 am
content: HiThe 10K bulbs are certainly a better bet than the lower color temperature bulbs.A PCB is no different than a photographic print. There is an optimum exposure setting and it is highly dependent on the amount of light. More or less light X time = magic number. You have some guard band due to the fact that gray is not an option in this case. The normal approach is to run a series of boards and work out what the optimum timing is for your light setup. There is no advantage to a lot of light unless you are after very high production rates. There is always an advantage to *uniform* lighting. The same batch if issues also apply to getting a uniform layer of resist on your boards.Bob
Chinese website for rare chips ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Koen
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 01:04:34 pm
content: Hello,a while ago, in a repair thread, someone posted the link of a chinese website in which you could enter a part code and receive a list of suppliers for it with prices and stocks. They had some fairly old and rare parts referenced. It isn't Alibaba. It was in chinese only and prices were in yuan. Would you remember it ?Thank you,Koen

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 01:26:35 pm
content: taobao.com

author: Koen
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 01:35:27 pm
content: Thank you but no, it was specialized in electronic chips. With a search bar on top and a list of suppliers, stocks and prices below, all in chinese.

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 02:45:49 pm
content: Has to be this?http://www.jotrin.comSeems to have an English language setting too though.

author: Koen
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 02:52:45 pm
content: Thank you but no, it was purely chinese and probably for the chinese inner market. But thanks to you both, I now have a few leads for the chip.

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 03:25:05 pm
content: This one?http://www.hqew.com/

author: Koen
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2016, 11:42:54 am
content: Yes, thank you very much !
"Semco cartridge" as syringe?  Solder paste n00b - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cirthix
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2016, 09:07:48 pm
content: Hi,I'd like to get started using paste+reflow procedure. Based on recommendations here, I'll be gettinghttp://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/loctite/2003721/1000-134-ND/5233575But the package type is "cartridge" and not "syringe". Is this a standard size cartridge or something?I plan on using stencils but figured that a syringe would be cleaner to use.Can a tip and plunger be added or would it be better to just get the tub?Thanks,cirthix

author: billfernandez
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2016, 01:07:03 am
content: I recently bought the same paste, but decided to get it in the tub rather than the cartridge.I haven't found any info about Semco cartridges, but given that it comes filled with 600mL of paste it must be huge and heavy. And I'm assuming it's for dispensing machines rather than for plunger use.Sparkfun has a tutorial video on hand-stenciling with paste from a tub. Maybe it will be helpful to watch:https://www.sparkfun.com/videos#all/WDIqtGMROjM
Need Help building a simple voice recorder prototype - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: drboyd41
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 24, 2016, 09:49:32 am
content: I need help from someone in the atlanta area to advise or to build a prototype of a very simple hand held voice recorder to be mass produced. Would be similar tohttp://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Rechargeable-Digital-Recorder-Dictaphone/dp/B00FPI1HQ8/ref=sr_1_62?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1464057323&sr=1-62&keywords=digital+voice+recorder] http://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Rechargeable-Digital-Recorder-Dictaphone/dp/B00FPI1HQ8/ref=sr_1_62?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1464057323&sr=1-62&keywords=digital+voice+recorder but with a few minor modifications. Please email to discuss.
Electronics design and consulting firms in the East Coast? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Asparagus
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 12, 2016, 02:14:56 am
content: Hi, I am looking for an Electronics design and consulting firm in the East Coast-USA? I need to build a custom power supply using USB type-C PD. I prefer a firm with experience in power supplies and battery charging.Any recommendations?Thanks

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2016, 01:35:37 pm
content: PM sent.

author: Asparagus
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 19, 2016, 01:14:28 am
content: Thanks, I wrote to him. Much appreciated.
voltage pulse trimming of thick film resistors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: phenol
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2016, 05:57:46 am
content: Hellodoes anyone know companies that make pulse trimming equipment for hybrid ic and other thick film resistors based on ruthenium oxide. The resistance of the tuned elements would have be between 50 and 300 ohms.regards
Where is pin one? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: depeje
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 01:47:13 pm
content: I was assembling a gadget I designed, but now I'm stuck at soldering an ST3232C. I can't seem to find which pin is pin one. Here's the datasheet:http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2016317.pdf. Did they forget the dot, am I just blind?

author: stmdude
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 01:49:36 pm
content: Check page 11 in the document you linked.See how one of the edges of the chip is beveled ? That's how you find pin 1.

author: depeje
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 01:55:07 pm
content: Ok, so I am blind. I actually saw the line on the top view, but I was looking for it in laser etching.Thanks!

author: stmdude
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 01:56:56 pm
content: Quote from: depeje on April 30, 2016, 01:55:07 pmSo was I the first time I ran into it.

author: brabus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 01:58:11 pm
content: That has got to be the worst moulded package I have ever seen.

author: m98
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2016, 05:44:35 pm
content: Really, why couldn't they just add a normal pin mark on the laser etching? Wouldn't cost them a cent.

author: TiN
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2016, 04:39:03 am
content: Running laser path cost time. In jellybean IC production even a second cost some money if you multiply it over millions of packages...Beveled edge have pin 1, fairly usual thing.

author: DTJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2016, 06:31:52 am
content: For DIL/DIP/SO parts where there is no pin 1 mark and the bevel or whatever is ambiguous I rely on the print orientation.If the print is right way up then pin 1 is at the bottom left. Has anyone come across parts that break this rule?28 27 26 25 24..........................=======================| || Part # XYZ || |=======================1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 .........................

author: 48X24X48X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2016, 09:12:40 am
content: How usually I look for pin #1 follows the following sequence:Look for dot or lineNo dot, look for slanting edgeNo slanting edge, look at the direction of textMore and more IC are made without the dots these days.
Alpha Metals solder paste renewed? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MT
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2016, 11:02:25 pm
content: I have a old can of Fine Line 2000 paste that have hardened up, flux dried or someting, is it possible to soften it down again? Or is it EOL/Expired/DEAD on ARRIVAL?Hmm, borax and water ? Brazing flux is potassium salts of Boron and Fluorine if withe if black +boron? The can says silver and antimon?!Pur in some alcohol or water and stir , no?

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 08, 2016, 11:14:10 pm
content: HiIf you wish to use it to solder copper water pipes, there are ways to still use it. For it's intended use, not so much.Bob
Help me select a laminator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Dan Moos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2016, 04:36:03 pm
content: Ok, I went on Amazon looking for a laminator for toner transfer, and I'm completely lost.There are TONS in the thirty dollar and less range, and that's what I hope to spend.Since a laminator's ability to feed a PCB and melt toner aren't the sort of specs one finds on Amazon, I'm asking for help here.What are SPECIFIC models known to work, hopefully in that price bracket or close.I don't want to modify one if it can be helped. My understanding is that most mods just slow the thing down. I'm just fine doing multiple passes if that means no mod needed. I'd rather not go to the trouble doing a mod until I know I have a working system.

author: Dan Moos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2016, 08:15:30 pm
content: In this application, i think folks are slowing the motor, and raising the heat.I just bought a cheap Swingline GBC laminator. Out of the box, it was too cool. The trick I see people doing is to put a resister in series with the temp sensing thermister so the comparator that switches the heater triggers later.Not knowing the resistance of this particular thermister at either end of the devices temp range, i didnt even know if I was dealing with 10s, hundreds, or thousands of ohm spread here. Thus begins my cautionary tale.I used a 10k pot wired as a variable resister, and took temp measurements. Sure enough, I could raise the heat level, but 10k was too big!. The good news is i got a decent transfer. the bad news is I eventually melted the centers of the gears on the roller shafts! I have since switched to a 1k pot, and seem to get a temp at the rollers that varies between 164 and 174 C as the heater comes off and on. Its my understanding that this is the sweet spot temp-wise. I'm hoping some epoxy heals my melted gear centers. I just gotta make sure I get stuff that can take the heat!As an aside, I'm amazed at how little heat shielding there is in this plastic gadget. The thermistor and the thermal fuse wires are heat wrapped, but everything else is not. Seems like it would take much for a problem to arise!

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2016, 09:18:36 pm
content: Dan, my old Rexel laminator is not only adjustable for heat but it does take some time to fully warm up.It has a temp ok light that I'll wait a couple of minutes more to ensure full heat is reached and the entire warmup takes a good 5 minutes.Yours might be somewhat different but despite that I'd resist modding it.I might've been lucky with mine, however it does require 2 passes with the PCB in the card carrier sleeve.I've never need to tape the TT to a PCB but I do print onto a snippet of transfer medium (TT paper) that's stuck to a full sheet of A4 after adjusting printer settings to print in the middle of the paper.Print to plain paper first then stick the medium over the image and print again.IMO the printing heat of 2 passes through the printer helps reduce any printing shrinkage errors.Good luck.
Silver soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: init
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 11:43:32 am
content: Hey guys, bit of an odd question. I want to solder to a piece of pure silver ~99% in some way that I can interface with an IC. So perhaps go from silver to silver solder to a pcb pad. From what I can see, silver solder melts at around ~700 C so I'm guessing a conventional electronics soldering iron wouldn't be able to get hot enough. Is the only way to do this with a blow torch? Can silver solder chemically form bonds with copper or Sn/Pb solder? If I need to get to ~700C to melt the silver solder with the PCB pad, would it damage the PCB?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 12:01:45 pm
content: Silver will definitely solder with regular solder, and will easily solder to a PCB using regular electronics solders. Just be aware you will need a lot of heat if the silver mass is large. No need for any exotic silver laden solder, it will dissolve in the regular solder quite easily at the regular tin solder melting point. Just use a bit of flux to improve wetting and clean well afterwards. Do not use acid or borax based flux, it will eat the copper traces, but 5o solder a coin to a PCB just regular solder and hot air to get the coin to solder melting works fine.

author: init
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 12:05:40 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on April 30, 2016, 12:01:45 pmThanks for the reply. That's good to hear, it will make it a lot easier (and cheaper)

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2016, 04:55:40 am
content: FYI, the customary language is probably confusing:"Silver solder" or "hard solder" refers to a medium-melting braze alloy, based on silver (usually combined with copper, zinc and others). Melting points are in the red-hot range."Silver bearing solder" refers to a tin and/or lead based alloy, which contains silver to increase strength. (Because it's stronger, it might also be considered "hard" in comparison to other soft solders, so beware of this too.)For electrical soldering, you'll be doing the latter, soft soldering, because of the required low melting point. To stick to silver metal, absolutely any alloy is fine. The silver metal will be dissolved somewhat (let it soak a while, and even if you started with plain Sn60 or whatever alloy, you'll now have silver-bearing), but that's only a problem on plated layers. You'd have to wash it with a lot of solder to dissolve much of a bulk item.Tim
Altium Blanket Directives - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: electosleepy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2016, 07:19:50 am
content: Hi,I currently have two blanket directives on the same Altium sheet. After placing the first blanket directive I use the highlighter tool and click on the outline of the first blanket directive and it highlights all the nets contained within the first blanket directive as expected. My problem is when the second blanket directive is placed and I use the highlighter tool on theoutline of the second blanket directiveithighlights the nets contained by the first blanket directive. Why is it doing this?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2016, 02:52:50 pm
content: Are the blankets in the same place...?If you assign a Net Class to each, and push the changes into the PCB, does it follow the highlighting or does it work like it should?I've never had a blanket not work as it should, but I've never checked what it highlights, so I'm not familiar with that. Could be a bug. Have you checked BugCrunch?Tim

author: electosleepy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2016, 01:05:57 am
content: I think it is a bug the blankets are completely separated but it seems to import the changes correctly in the PCB editor.
This SN74HC00N looks genuine to you? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: CyberPK
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2016, 12:56:43 am
content: I've buyed from a chinese seller a couple of 74hc00.I think they are fake. What do you think about? How can I check it works as expected?Thank you!P.S. I know, I know, never buy from untrusted seller....

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2016, 01:34:25 am
content: We (by reading and typing) have already wasted more than enough time to render the question moot.If you have to ask, the answer is most likely: no.Offhand, I don't see any TI parts in my collection with that exact font width, and all the date codes start with one or two numbers, never letters. The plastic and laser etching look good.Tim

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2016, 03:18:54 am
content: It's four NAND gates... I'd say fake or not, their operation is going to be pretty easy to check and this is basically a cheap "jellybean" part where the die costs almost nothing.

author: mij59
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2016, 03:47:17 am
content: From the limited components I ordered from China, I say there's most of the time something wrong with it.Measure the properties of the chips and compare them with the data sheet.You could check the supply current as function of the logical states, output drive capability, rise time, propagation delay.

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 23, 2016, 06:22:42 am
content: It's hard to tell, but the pins look like they might be tinned. They look too shiny. If so, it's likely recycled.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 23, 2016, 07:00:30 am
content: Looks fake, wrong font, too large marking, TI logo is wrong, no proper space around "i", Texas state has changed it's shape, character count in the first row is 8 VS 7 that normally should be. Lead shape and finish seem to be wrong too. Genuine IC should look like this:
DFT, small series testing, JTAGs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DominicusPlatus
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 29, 2016, 07:50:42 pm
content: HiRecently I have been researching available solutions for testing finished assembled boards. I'm aware of the >kk$ tools used by fabs, my interest are the possibilities available for relatively low cost.For digital, JTAG can take care of large portion of interconnect tests. The problem persists on software level, the open source project 'goJTAG' has been removed. The app works nice, but the support only scanner of sponsoring company.For commercial solutions, the 'TopJTAG' supports the FTDI based scanners and JLINK, but is not a free solution, and very limited in software in terms of automation ( closed source , no API ).The other commercial grade level solutions like XJTAG and Nebula or Corellis, have some more capabilities, but again, the price.Taking into consideration that all the analysis is done on the host software, as a software engineer I'm tempted to start a open-source solution, at start for basic discovery, chain analysis and bsdl parsing, most importantly, possible to automate.Now the analog part. The commercial tools have awesome capabilities, but they all use custom very expensive hardware and are designed for rather large batches.To clarify, this solution is supposed to be handled by operator testing the board, by applying instrument probes to test points, and the running then tests which evaluate the results against test definitions for pass/fail.So I came up with an idea of simple testing app, which loads the test definitions from file ( cvs for start - easy copy paste from other docs ) and allows running those tests using hardware with programmable interfaces. For now, the following are used :- Programmable DC supplies - RS232- Programmable multimeters - RS232- Oscillscopes - USB ( PicoScope )This allows relatively easy for running test such as :- DC - min-max check ( Scope/Multimeter )- AC - amplitude- Frequency range ( limited by scope bandwidth )- Current consumption ( Programmable supply )In the future more devices could be added. I have considered adding NI-VISA, but I have all but bad experience with their software stack, will leave that for future dev.I have created repositories with initial structure :https://github.com/dominicusplatus/sconnTesterhttps://github.com/dominicusplatus/sconnJTAGIn the following weeks I plan to push the projects to fully operational state, to be able to test my boards after production. I invite everyone for collaboration.Has any one got a better idea for this ? Meaby I have missed something and there are existing tools which are open source, please correct me if I'm wrong on this one.
1W/3W "bead LEDs - what was the original part - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2016, 06:36:57 pm
content: So a customer wants to use the "bead" leds in their design. Those that like like this (image from google):They can be had for cheap from god knows how many chinese vendors and manufacturers, but I want to know who did they clone. I suppose this was at some point in time a product from Lumileds, Cree or somebody like that.Can anyone point me in a direction of documentation of the original part?

author: dcarr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2016, 07:54:57 pm
content: Something like this?http://www.luxeonstar.com/assets/downloads/DS25.pdf

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2016, 12:03:32 am
content: Yeah, thanks. That's exactly what I had in mind.Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk.
Is this normal for new PCB? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2016, 03:58:48 pm
content: I just had these FR4 boards delivered a few days ago guys and to be honenst they look like old stock perhaps to me. They have what looks like an exposed edge down one side which IMO doesn't seem correct? Its as if the photoresist has either not been applied evenly or perhaps the pcbs have been poorly stored or something.As you can see the surfaces are different colours down one edge. The pics were taken as soon as the black protective film was removed in a dark'ish room. Surely this is not correct for new PCBs?Many thanks for any advice.

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2016, 06:16:22 am
content: Are you sure that is exposed edge? Or perhaps it is thicker copper for maybe a card edge fingers?

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2016, 09:04:00 am
content: The areas I'm concerned about are the lower edges in each picture where the colour goes from dark to light. I have not cut anything there.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2016, 10:28:12 am
content: These are from the edges of a bigger plate, there is less photoresist on the edges

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2016, 10:32:42 am
content: Quote from: PA0PBZ on April 09, 2016, 10:28:12 amAre they acceptable for new boards would you say?

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2016, 09:30:11 am
content: All sorted.. The company was awesome, they just apologised and are sending replacement boards out for me.

author: aries1470
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2016, 12:26:59 pm
content: That is great to know. Suppose QA didn't do a final check? Good outcome.
Where to get custom cables - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: delmadord
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2016, 05:36:35 pm
content: HelloWhat do you do, if your product definitely must include cables (Line, Neutral and Earth)? Do you order them somewhere, with specifications (length, connectors, heat-shrunk/sleeved)? Or do you order separate components for the cable and manufacture them yourself? Tips from around central Europe would be helpful.Thanks.

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2016, 09:47:56 pm
content: In Your part of the world check outwww.novkabel.com

author: kony
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2016, 11:15:31 pm
content: What production volumes are you after?http://www.konel.cz/stable90-126-3-263_Sluzby_a_aplikace(suggested for smaller volumes)http://www.kes.cz/http://www.kabelovna.cz/produkty-kdpa

author: delmadord
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2016, 04:34:02 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on April 14, 2016, 11:20:39 pmI would if I could found any (and they would fit). Do you know about the off-the-shelf ones page?

author: delmadord
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2016, 04:36:52 pm
content: Quote from: kony on April 14, 2016, 11:15:31 pmThanks, this is really helpful.
Thermal Vias - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: electosleepy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2016, 09:54:05 am
content: Do thermal vias need an annular ring?

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2016, 03:09:34 pm
content: Yes they do. Meaning, you cannot place a via too close to the end of a plane.

author: electosleepy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2016, 08:03:03 am
content: I should have posted a picture, attached is the footprint. The annular rings which are grey are well inside the pad should I remove the annular rings? Will the manufacturer ignore the annular rings?

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2016, 08:09:38 am
content: It is OK as it is. There will not ba any difference on the Gerber file, and this way you are sure it is manufacturable.

author: electosleepy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2016, 11:42:11 am
content: Thank you for the confirmation.

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2016, 02:41:15 am
content: Annular ring is to allow for the drill to hit without the risk of it breaking out of the edge. So no matter the situation, you need to maintain the annular ring. (The rule is off my default in altium IIRC, you may want to turn it on and set it per your board manufactures rules.)As said, it wont make any difference to the gerber, and you're good to go.