Free [Almost] (EU) ERSA Soldering station i-Con PICO, broken [SOLD] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2015, 05:28:03 pm
content: Well, almost free, I am asking shipping cost, Euro 7 for Germany and Euro 18 for the rest of EuropeThis soldering station is in good physical condition and works partially alright.It heats up to around 350 or 400 degree but has no regulation.After a few seconds it displays ERR 8 or ERR 4 (see pictures)But even with the error showing, it keeps heating up and works.Otherwise it is in good condition, including the stand for the iron tip and some new tip cleaner.I do not have the time to find out what is wrong with it.But I am sure someone here has the time and knowledge to play with it.If someone gets it to fix it and is successful, I am asking that you share the repair with us all on eevblog.If too many are interested, the first one committing and paying for it, will get it.If nobody is interested, I will say bye bye at our dumpster.I do have the handbook (user guide) as a PDF and will send it to the person who gets the unit by email.(The attachment is too large for this forum)

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2015, 05:39:46 pm
content: Oh, I forgot to mention, that this soldering station has a slot for a Micro SD card and the unit can be programmed with a code on this card. But I do not have a Micro SD card for it.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2015, 05:42:46 pm
content: Hi i send u a pm.I would gladly take it.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2015, 05:50:33 pm
content: I would also happily take it off your hands, but I guess I'm too late.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2015, 05:52:42 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on January 07, 2015, 05:50:33 pmLol u be dam right boy.When i saw this i flipped off for a moment.

author: krivx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2015, 05:54:30 pm
content: I'll ask for third in line, just in case

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2015, 05:57:32 pm
content: Quote from: Isad on January 07, 2015, 05:42:46 pmIsad, you are the first in line...But Albania is not part of the EU and shipping cost is higher, I just looked up the shipping cost and it will be 30 Euro to AlbaniaLet me know, if you want to do this.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2015, 06:29:58 pm
content: Sold to Isad, payment received, will ship tomorrow.Congratulations.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 01:48:30 pm
content: Item arrived safe and sound.Very nice packing.Thanks.I messed up to tell u but i meant a heating element were can u buy them and not the tipif u can provide a website that sells them then thanks.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 02:03:20 pm
content: Quote from: Isad on January 15, 2015, 01:48:30 pmhttp://uk.farnell.com/ersa/013100j/heating-element-i-tool-pico/dp/2057379search by part number 013100J

author: Yago
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 02:15:06 pm
content: TME do Ersa stations, and spares too.I'm forming a club of Isad haters, he nicked the best deal of the year(joking!).Gratz Isad, good irons, I have the Ersa Nano and love it.The 10mm tip is a beast at cap removal!

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 02:47:24 pm
content: Quote from: Isad on January 15, 2015, 01:48:30 pmIf the digital display shows the tip temperature as it rises and the iron gets (too) hot then I don't think the element or temperature sensor is faulty - more likely to be that the power to the element is turned on all the time (crapped out triac/thyristor/whatever in the power unit).

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 03:11:04 pm
content: Quote from: TopLoser on January 15, 2015, 02:47:24 pmWell Top i might have a ideaAre the icon nano and the pico the same cuz the iron is i-tool picobut the board inside is i-con pico.Idk if that is normal or itsa fault.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 03:13:30 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on January 15, 2015, 02:03:20 pmThanks wraper well i am newto all this ersa bussines.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 03:14:11 pm
content: I'm pretty sure they're the same station, just one gets an ESD label and a different handle.My thoughts are either a shorted TRIAC or an open sensor input. Neither should be hard to work out.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 03:16:16 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on January 15, 2015, 03:14:11 pmOh thanks as i meationed i am newto all thsi ersa bussines so idk anything idk even if u can get a schematicor anythign if somone can provide me with one i would be greatfull.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 03:17:14 pm
content: Quote from: Yago on January 15, 2015, 02:15:06 pmLOL Thansk YagoHave seen soem great deals herebut i was late to get them.Well i had to nick one off and it was worth it.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 03:18:58 pm
content: Don't worry about a schematic, just reverse engineer it. It should be pretty trivial to work out where the switching circuitry is. Check that first.E: On checking the error messages, second, more likely, suspect: Find the thermocouple amp.

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 03:29:01 pm
content: Just post a photo of the board and I'm sure you will get some good pointers, people will be only too happy to tell you where to stick your meter probes!

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 03:32:47 pm
content: Quote from: TopLoser on January 15, 2015, 03:29:01 pmI dunno, I wanted to be doing the probing..

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 03:34:18 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on January 15, 2015, 03:18:58 pmWell this is my problem i cant finde the switching cicruitand i cant see any thing that can handle any hight current ibealive that the triac or switchign circuit is inside the poted transformerif so then its gona be a pain to do any repair.And if sombody wonders the iron goes to 600 CImage:http://goo.gl/bKwcMU

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 03:45:15 pm
content: Turn the board over.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 03:53:01 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on January 15, 2015, 03:45:15 pmOkSry i didnt do it.And i might know what the thing is theheating element is showing a short in each pin.Is it normal or no.If no then i have to defend my selfby saying i have never had a regulated soldering iron.Images:http://goo.gl/0hytXt

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:02:24 pm
content: Quote from: Isad on January 15, 2015, 03:53:01 pmThere's nothing wrong with the iron element, if there was then it wouldn't get hot! It's not short, it's just low resistance like it should be.Step away from the iron, concentrate on the power unit. (oops maybe not haha)

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:04:50 pm
content: Quote from: TopLoser on January 15, 2015, 04:02:24 pmOk TopThere is like 5 pins and all are short togetherI dont bealive that that is normal liek even the sensing resistenc.If i am wrong then sry.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:23:39 pm
content: Here is regular I-con and I-con nano heating element. Pico likely is similar, considering they share the same controller board.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:25:45 pm
content: BTW there are electronics in the handpiece too.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:26:27 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on January 15, 2015, 04:25:45 pmThe lack of a TRIAC on the control board gives that game away.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:26:55 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on January 15, 2015, 04:23:39 pmOh wowIdk anything about soldering irons thenThanks Wraper thats cleared me up a loot.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:28:19 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on January 15, 2015, 04:26:27 pmDo i really have to cut the handpiece.Well if i do i am gona have my heart broken lol.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:34:00 pm
content: In regular I-CON (which share the same heating elemement with I-CON nano (which share the control pcb with pico)) there is triac mounted on the heatsink on the pcb. What I know about handpiece electronics, there definitely is motion sensor and probably temperature sensing related circuity too.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:39:34 pm
content: This is regular/nano handpiece. Don't seem to include any power electronics. And if it would, that would heat up, what would not be acceptable for user at all.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:41:19 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on January 15, 2015, 04:34:00 pmWell i havent seen any triacs in the pcb heatsink beside alinear voltage regulator nothign else.If i haveto cut the handpiece then i will cuz it costs about 52 punds wich is a like 70$ .

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:42:50 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on January 15, 2015, 04:39:34 pmThis is the pico version its russian but yeah.Put it in the 12:28 and u can see the cicruit.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:46:28 pm
content: Quote from: Isad on January 15, 2015, 04:42:50 pmI do speak Russian

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:47:43 pm
content: He says that engineers were either drunken or were smoking something.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 04:50:07 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on January 15, 2015, 04:47:43 pmSo there is nothing faulty in the handpiece.I am asking so many questions it is jsut gettign anoying for u guys.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 05:12:02 pm
content: According to what he said in the video here is heater element pinout. It is really hard to listen him as he is talking really weird, like half gangsta / half I don't know ho to explain

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 05:16:59 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on January 15, 2015, 05:12:02 pmYeah i heard that he was talkign wierd.Thansk for the explanation i will have to have a look tomorrow.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 05:28:49 pm
content: Probably there are power electronics in the handpiece, he is stalking about PWM from the main board. And it happens over the same wire as analog temperature feedback signal. He shows it on oscilloscope. They are time divided. PWM pulse from main MCU, than analog feedback from the handpiece over the same wire.

author: Yago
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 05:49:04 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on January 15, 2015, 04:34:00 pmI didn't think there was motion sensor in pico and nano.Thought it worked by sensing the power required to keep tip at set temp?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 07:30:42 pm
content: Quote from: Yago on January 15, 2015, 05:49:04 pmDon't know if nano/pico has standby mode for which motion sensor is used for in full fledged stations like I have. But heating element in nano is exactly the same and very expensive. PCB it pico handpiece is completely different according to youtube video.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 07:31:55 pm
content: Ok so i have checked basically evrything in the board even the pulsesbut i doesent even ring abell on me.Maybe cuz i ma all new tothis regulated soldering iron i havent doen a repair job in one of thesenever so do i have to change tho hole handpiece or no cuz its a bit pricy.Thanks evryone for the help.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 07:34:29 pm
content: Post what you measured on heating element between all pins.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 07:41:59 pm
content: And also what it shows when heating element is not inserted

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 08:12:43 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on January 15, 2015, 07:41:59 pmWell it shows 659 C then error.Thats all.The pic of the oscilloscope i will post tomorrow basically just 1 didgive singal betwen a handpeice pin and ground the others nothing and 1 time it workedfor about 5 min then it got to about 500 C agian.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 10:06:14 pm
content: Quote from: Isad on January 15, 2015, 01:48:30 pmWow, that was a quick shipment to your country, faster than expected.Well, you asked for a tip, so I included a brand new tip, not knowing that you asked for the heating element.I do not have spares of that.Reading through all the post's from today, you got pretty far in the repair.Scope pictures of the signal to hand-unit would be great.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2015, 09:38:13 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on January 15, 2015, 10:06:14 pmYep the shipping was quick i was amazed.And about the repair u might hate mebut probing around i shorted somthign and now its displayign error 501wich means check the system ics.And second i did all this just to find out that the thermocuple inside gets shortedsometime and sometimes it worked.Now i have to go more deeper but i bealive thatsome of the op amp and transistors are shorted cuz the linear voltage regulator getreally hot.Ichanged it with a huge one but didnt change anything well i have som seruiswork to do.Thanks agian.Best RegardsIsad

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2015, 09:26:07 am
content: If you can not repair it yourself, you might check with ERSA in your country, to see if they are taken care of it under warranty. The unit is new enough that it should be covered by warranty. But of course, if they detect that you made a short and replaced the regulator and added a heatsink, may be they will deny the claim. But, who knows, may be they are not even opening the unit up and will exchange it for a new one. May be worth a try.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2015, 01:45:02 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on January 20, 2015, 09:26:07 amWellA there is no Ersa in Albania and B i have littarly desolder and resoldered evryIc i have found in it i was driving me crazy i didnt know it had warranty god dangit welp the board is dead now but the soldering iron works and the transformatorand i do have a idea what i am gona do with it arduino controlled with a lcd or might use theErsa lcd if i can finde anything lol.Thanks agian for the soldering iron i got so used to this nowthat my old 7$ 220v soldering looks to me like poop.I have ben missign so much.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2015, 01:47:45 pm
content: So your method of debugging a mostly functional board was to randomly resolder parts until it ended up stone dead.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2015, 02:46:55 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on January 20, 2015, 01:47:45 pmNo i debugged it for 2 days and evryone one the forum said theheatign element with the temp sens didnt have anything so i keeptdebugging the board for 2 day till i got there were i was shure that evrything wasdead so i started desoldering evrything cuz i was gettign 10 ohm throught the output of the regulator.It still works but it heats up so bad i bealive that the ADC inside is dead so yeah.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2015, 06:39:03 pm
content: I know it's a bit late, but I just discovered that ersa-shop.com has put up the error codes, parts lists, etc. for each model. (In German only, however!!)Error 4 is "Error reading ambient temperature" and error 8 is "defective heating element".Error 501 is "icon Pico system error", supposedly caused by a "hardware problem in the control board".Also FYI, the pinout of the Pico heating element is NOT the same as the one in the Nano and higher models.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2015, 08:46:08 pm
content: I think Isad has given up the repair, since we have not heard from him since 10 month on this issueBut thanks for the error codes, good to know for the future.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2015, 09:38:23 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on November 27, 2015, 08:46:08 pmWell actually i am still ussing the iron cant say the same thing for the controller XD.Its actually a nice irone to work when powerd up by 6V at 4A.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 09:48:52 am
content: Quote from: Isad on November 27, 2015, 09:38:23 pmSo, you are powering the iron from a DC lab PSU?How interesting.Pictures?I would guess, that with a constant current you get a pretty constant temperature, as long as you are not taking too much heat out of the iron.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 11:26:18 am
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on November 28, 2015, 09:48:52 amWell no constat current it is just connected to a power supply than can supply 6v at 10A.I have powerd it from a cv and cc step down converter from ebay and actually but it was only 3 Aand well u can gues the income i didnt check the temp on the converter and well.It works well as it is and it doesnt draw a more then 4-5A max.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 12:45:37 pm
content: You are the only one I know, that is using a modern ERSA soldering iron like this.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 02:07:47 pm
content: Indeed! And actually, aren't the thermocouples in those irons regular type K? (Some of the error code tables said something like "KTY failure".) If so, it should be relatively trivial to at least get temperature measurement out of it, so you know what temperature you're soldering at.I have to say, as an owner of an i-con nano, that the iron performs REALLY well, but I agree to an extent with people who dislike the pico/nano base station. (I mean, really, would it have been so hard to put the power switch on the front? And maybe put a backlight on the LCD?) So at least in theory using an i-con series handle with some other driver seems eminently doable.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 03:19:49 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on November 28, 2015, 02:07:47 pmAgree, Yes, especially for something "Made in Germany"But they probably wanted to offer something for the low end market, fighting off the low cost irons from China, that we see now all over Germany on the retail stores. But in reality it was a kind of fail!

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 04:19:18 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on November 28, 2015, 12:45:37 pmLol glad to be special.But still i hate my self that i destroyed the controller.I knew it was the thermocouple fault but sike i went on a spree on the board .

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 05:09:40 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on November 28, 2015, 03:19:49 pmIf anything, they could at least have given the Nano a backlight to differentiate it from the pico. Cuz as we've seen in many threads here (and elsewhere), people get really confused over the difference, since they are so very similar in specs. (Other than the pico not being antistatic, every difference is "under the hood" only.)But I will say this: the performance of these things is awesome for the price. They offer identical heating performance and regulation as the much more expensive models of the i-con line, which seems to be comparable to high end stations from other vendors. The short tip distance is also very nice, and since they aren't cartridge tips, they're fairly cheap.

author: Cloud
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 05:17:25 pm
content: If I remeber right Pico has much more plastic parts and Nano has the same heater as I-Con, but it runs on lower voltage.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 05:21:58 pm
content: Quote from: Isad on November 28, 2015, 04:19:18 pmHey, who knows, may be one day you will find a working controller that someone does not need anymore.At least it has been a good learning experience for you.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 05:25:23 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on November 28, 2015, 05:09:40 pmI just love the "i-con 1" line of the ERSA soldering irons.The lightweight of the soldering tip alone is a reason to have this one.And the variety of available tips is just amazing as well.I have several of these i-con stations in the lab and in production and never had a failure or problem.Here is the one in my lab:

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 05:33:10 pm
content: Quote from: Cloud on November 28, 2015, 05:17:25 pmReally, the pico and nano are identical except for the heater (which is all-metal on the nano, part plastic on the pico), the power cord (ungrounded on the pico), and that the plastic parts are ESD-safe on the nano. We know from teardowns that the PCB layouts are the same, as are the plastic moldings. (And yes, the nano uses the "full" i-Tool heater, but at 16.5V IIRC, for a maximum of 80W (68W continuous), as opposed to 24V with a maximum of 150W on the full models. Nonetheless, the heatup performance is identical according to ersa's temp graphs.) Oh, and the nano includes the same, nicer ESD-safe iron holder as the big brothers, while the pico comes with a metal coil holder.As an aside, someone here in Switzerland is selling an unused i-con 2 (set with 1 iron and 1 tweezer iron) for less than $600. If I weren't flat broke at the moment I'd jump on it...Quote from: HighVoltage on November 28, 2015, 05:21:58 pmYou can buy controllers and boards from ersa as spare parts. But they're so close in price to a whole new station with iron that it makes no sense.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 05:36:18 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on November 28, 2015, 05:25:23 pmPart of me wishes I'd spent a bit more and gotten the i-con 1 instead of the nano. But it's really only because of the user interface of the base station. I wish it were backlit!Question for you: does the grip section of the handle on the "full" i-Tool handle you have get hot after prolonged use? That's been my only other gripe about the nano, that the grip gets rather hot after a few hours of continuous use. (It doesn't have the gray rubber yours have, it's just bare black plastic.)

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 05:43:55 pm
content: Quote from: Cloud on November 28, 2015, 05:17:25 pmAddendum: It looks like even the i-con 1 (and higher) runs the iron at 80W maximum as well, which totally explains why the heating performance is identical across the entire product line. But it does beg the question: why make the heater capable of 150W if it is never pushed beyond 80W? Could it be nothing more than derating to make it last longer?

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 06:25:51 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on November 28, 2015, 05:21:58 pmI hella learned somthing on that irone still havent understand how ersa manegedto do the switching on that iron.Well i would just like to buy new one but having no job and beeing in high schooleright now it wont be easy maybe after this year if they decide to finally get some of thestudent to work in the hydropower station or in the city.But till now i am having some goodtimes doing project for me and 1 of my friends.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 09:43:59 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on November 28, 2015, 05:36:18 pmNot really.Even after using it for hours at a time, the handle gets warm but never hot that it becomes uncomfortable. I was even surprised myself how nice the handle is placing itself in the hand of the user, mainly because of the lightweight and ergonomic shape.This one in the picture has been used now for many years already. I bought a few extra handles when I got the first i-con 1, expecting it to not last long because of the small size. But to my surprise, I never had to exchange the handle. Just the tips from time to time, when they get used up.The i-con 1 I can highly recommend!

author: Augustus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2015, 11:27:07 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on November 28, 2015, 05:43:55 pmI own an I-Con 1 and hooked it up to a power-meter to do some power measurements on it. During heat-up it draws 150w from the wall (pretty bang on), total time to melt solder is about ~7 seconds (Temperature set to 300°C, 5mm chisel tip) and heating starts at about 2.5 seconds after turning it on (for the first 2.5 seconds it only shows a splash-screen, without heating). So, effective heating time from room-temperature until solder melts, is about ~4.5 seconds.The power draw, using the 5mm chisel and soldering on e.g. fat ground planes, regularly exceeds 100w for short periods of time. Judging by this, the 150W claim for the "big" i-cons seems credible.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2015, 10:16:33 am
content: Quote from: Augustus on November 28, 2015, 11:27:07 pmI never hooked up a power meter to the i-con 1, Interesting to know, thanks!Yes, the heat up time is really amazing on this soldering station.The only one I know that does it faster is the Metcal / OKI system but they are based on an entirely different principle of heating.We have many of the i-con 1 irons in a production environment in Germany and use them to solder some spots that can not be automated.For this we are using FELDER solder (RoHS lead free) at 470 °CThe i-con 1 irons are working now for 6 or 7 years without any problems.

author: Augustus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2015, 10:24:03 pm
content: Wow, 470°C on a production line, that's quite a challenge on the tips... How do they keep up at such high temperatures? Mine's only used for typical hobbyists tasks, together with good old leaded solder at 280...350°C, so it should last some time. I like it a lot, it's very powerful, tips are plenty and cheap, ergonomic and a perfect fit for my small hands. A real Bobby Dazzler

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2015, 11:00:41 pm
content: Quote from: Augustus on November 29, 2015, 10:24:03 pmWell, the original ERSA tips last about 4 weeks.The good thing is, on the i-con 1, if it is not used, the unit goes in to standby at 250 °C and as soon as you grab the handle, it "jumps" up to the set value. And it erally feels like a jump, because it reached the set temperature so fast, it has usually reached the temperature before you reach the solder spot with the tip.You are right, lol, it is A real Bobby Dazzler

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2015, 10:49:52 pm
content: Why do you need such a high temperature? I thought that would just make the flux burn off faster, and make the solder oxidize faster.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2015, 11:52:09 am
content: Quote from: tooki on December 01, 2015, 10:49:52 pmIn this case, a small 0.05 mm insulated copper wire is soldered to a small copper stud.The high temperature is required to a) burn away the insulation from the copper wire and b) get a good solder connection and c) to do it in a relative short time. Typical solder temperatures for automated RoHS soldering of insulated copper wire is between 440 to 470 °C

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2015, 05:30:22 pm
content: Oh and btw if anyone wants to knowhook up a 2S lipo or a 3S and ur pretty goodfor working on pcb throw in a 4S and i bealive it willdo quite the job.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2015, 06:04:33 pm
content: Hello Isad,Send us a picture of your Lipo S2 setup.It seems the ERSA i-CON 1 is easier to repair than the PICOI just finished fixing one today, if you have not seen it:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/ersa-i-con-1-teardown-and-repair-%28success%29/

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2015, 07:03:02 pm
content: I have just tried it it is just 7.4V lipo conected directly to the heaterelement through the sky blue and the black wire.I have just used breadboardjumpers to try it would love to use a a jst connector but dont have them inhand right now.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2015, 10:15:41 am
content: Quote from: Isad on December 05, 2015, 07:03:02 pmSo, with no active current regulation, you are pulling about 2.5A (7.4V/3 Ohm) through the heating element, producing about 2 Watt of powerHow hot is the soldering tip then?

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2015, 10:48:53 am
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on December 06, 2015, 10:15:41 amWell it actually drawing 1.7A at that voltage i take back what i said about that 2.5A(i wasnt home that day and was only making a asumption)and the temp is around 350C,it solderes pretty nice.Now that i am thinking about it i have allways thought i needa 60W iron to do soldering and allways have ruined my board with those cheap fixed irons and i have allways thought i needa 40V 30A power supply now i see my self only using 3A at max and about 12-24V max.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2015, 11:17:49 am
content: You are independent of any power outlet, a real cordless ERSA soldering iron, that is really cool.And your ~12 Watt power produces ~350 °C how nice.May be there is a market for such a power supply?

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2015, 11:28:55 am
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on December 06, 2015, 11:17:49 amWhat market i am confused sorry if this sound dumbbut my english isnt on point.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2015, 03:25:55 pm
content: you could build a nice little box with a 7.4V Lipo and an original connector to fit the ERSA handle and an ON/OFF switch and sell it as a mobile soldering device. I can imagine that some people would buy this. And you could build an advanced box with a temperature control for more money.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2015, 05:36:25 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on December 06, 2015, 03:25:55 pmMy idea cam from mikes video of a good portable soldering iron and thought i mighttry mine with a battery would like to build one and i would imagine that with a 6S you couldpretty much use the full power of the iron.But to be honest really a ersa i-tool picocost about 82$ and add the cost of the 2S lipo and then the box and other thing andit wouldn be anything cheap.If the temp sensore inside is a k type sensoryou could controll it with a arduino and a lcd.

author: Aliumas147
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2016, 07:30:16 pm
content: Hi have anyone disassembled i-TOOL NANO.........if so can anyone tell what is minimal of big black (capacitor?) above 106E resistor ?

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 03:00:37 pm
content: Sorry, the only one I had was sold.May be someone else has a open i-Con Nano