Beginner to trying SMD soldering, any decent sub-$100 microscopes I can try? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Cyber Akuma
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2022, 06:51:56 pm
content: EDIT:I added some new information on microscope parts I got that I want to assemble into a microscope to help with soldering, please check post #19I want to try some projects that involve soldering some SMD components, mostly resistors, fuses, and capacitors, and they are quite tinier than I expected. I saw a many tutorial videos where the person was using a video microscope to perform the job. I assumed this was some high-level professional equipment that unless it's my professional career I shouldn't bother even considering spending the money, but then I found out that there are many under $100.Now, I am well aware that most professional ones tend to start out at $500 if not be four figures, but I am just starting out with a few DIY projects and not even sure if it's something I will stick with or only do occasionally as a hobby, so I don't want to drop a large amount on something professional that could end up barely being used. Something just simply good enough to help be better than just trying to use my naked eyes would be enough for now.When I tried to research this myself, places such as Amazon were overflowing with dozens and dozens of what look like Chinese clones of the same Chinese clones at just about every pricepoint. I have no idea which ones are even any good, or even if any of them are not just lying and using stock images from others of a completely different product. Most of them claim something ridiculous like 1000x zoom or higher, since I am pretty sure not even some of the highest end professional ones would let me zoom close enough to see bacteria on my fingers, I am pretty sure that's a lie and the zoom is nowhere near close to that. But that's fine, I just need it to be good enough to solder small SMD components with, not use as an electron microscope to analyze CPU dies.First thing I noticed is that many of them seem to have a metal stand. Are all of them like that? Would that get in the way if I wanted to make repairs or modifications to large circuit boards or even the entire device without taking out it's main board? I couldn't tell if it was possible to use them without the metal base.Another thing I noticed is many advertising their video and photo capturing ability. I can understand why taking a photo could be useful, but is taking video of any use if you aren't making YouTube or tutorial or such videos? Want to make sure I am not mis-understanding what would be the benefit of this.Likewise, just about all of them use a MicroSD card. Are these required for the microscope to function at all, or is this just if you want to take photos/videos?The cheapest option I saw was this $15-25 USB microscope camera that you need to plug into a phone or laptop to use as a screen for it. When I looked at more expensive models, all of their camera/lens component looked exactly like said camera. Are all of the budget/cheap ones simply that same $15-25 camera with just a screen and stand attached to charge more?I tried looking up websites and YouTube videos on recommended ones rather than just blindly choosing, but the majority of them older than 2021 led to dead links nowadays... which further makes me wonder if any of them under $100 are just clones of clones that are useless or break down fast.Out of all of this though, I did find four that look like they MIGHT be decent, any have any opinions on any of these?https://www.amazon.com/Microscope-ANNLOV-Magnification-Electronic-Adjustable/dp/B087NGMV64/https://www.amazon.com/Microscope-ANNLOV-Electronic-Magnification-Adjustable/dp/B084HJ44J5/https://www.amazon.com/PalliPartners-Microscope-Magnification-Megapixels-Adjustable/dp/B08LVM9361/https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LGGTBRGI suspect that #2 and #3 are just clones of each other though trying to undercut each other, and #4 would just barely be under the $100 mark with discounts so that's cutting it close... I can see a 7 inch screen being more useful than 4.3 though... as long as the rest of it is decent.Or are all of these garbage? Are there any one can recommend for this pricepoint or would all of them be useless that cheap, even if it's just for starting out for some hobby DIY projects?

author: MikeK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2022, 07:05:58 pm
content: I'll look forward to the replies as I don't have a microscope either, but I'll point out that my Donegan OptiVisor gets a *lot* of use for soldering as well as other stuff.

author: ifonlyeverything
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2022, 08:52:10 pm
content: Like you mentioned, I believe those models are just thishttps://www.amazon.com/Microscope-Magnification-Inspection-Compatible-Smartphone/dp/B07PVMRZQH/with an added display. I have the USB microscope I linked to. The biggest issue is the sensor's poor contrast combined with the LED's tendency to wash out the image when positioned perpendicular to the workpiece. I have a DIY base which allows me to rotate the camera at an angle, which helps a lot with image washout. If you want something that includes a base, maybe version "C" of this would be the best, because it allows you to angle the camera relative to the workpiece.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832652648792.htmledit: Also I have no idea what the true magnification is. You can get really zoomed in images if you want, but it's a matter of fighting with low resolution sensor + tendency to wash out images.https://imgur.com/a/XgALtfBIt also works well at a workable distance for hot air soldering.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2022, 09:27:05 pm
content: Get a decent head visor or much cheaper eye loop. You don't need a microscope for soldering. Generally, I use the head visor, and at my age, I have no accommodation.

author: Old Printer
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2022, 01:04:26 am
content: Another problem is focal length, you need to have a good distance between the lens and the what you are soldering. You need room to work and the cheaper units usually don’t have much. Some also have a small. time lag while the image is being processed. This makes it difficult to coordinate your iron tip and the display. Have a look through YouTube and reviewers will point these things out. I use the Optivisor as well and really like it, get a few different power lenses.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2022, 01:57:04 am
content: Quote from: Cyber Akuma on July 31, 2022, 06:51:56 pm1) Watch this video for tips on how to rapidly prototype with SMD components:Techniques and Strategies for Building Electronic Circuits -- Leo's Bag of Trickshttps://youtu.be/vq968AFgPhg2) Use the larger SMD components -- i.e. 1206 size.The combination of using large pads (or rather "islands") as suggested by the video and larger SMD component size will make the job of constructing a circuit a lot easier.If the problem is trying to solder small SMD components to an existing PCB then I would consider:A) redesign the board so it is easier to populate manually (larger pads, larger components, etc.)B) solder those resistors, fuses and capacitors using a reflow technique -- hot air or reflow oven or hot plate.Update:I suppose there is a scenario I haven't considered and that is that the OP wants to modify (or "rework") an existing populated PCB, i.e. change the values of some resistors and caps in some product that uses very small SMD components. Is that the use case we should be considering?

author: Cyber Akuma
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2022, 02:40:17 am
content: Quote from: ledtester on August 01, 2022, 01:57:04 amThat is actually what I want to do, for now at least. One project I want to do involves modifying an existing PCB with additional SMD components and other mini-boards being added on. Another involves soldering components to pre-made un-populated PCBs. I have nowhere near the electronics understanding yet to design my own PCBs, I am just following guides.

author: SmallCog
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2022, 04:07:59 am
content: I bought a generic HDMI mini microscope thing a while back.It's a fun toy, I've used it once or twice to look at things I'd not have been able to see another way but I've never actually used it for soldering. I find my traditional magnifying lamp more than adequate for SMD work.I was warned off the USB versions when I bought mine due to the potential for lag if you were to try doing something fiddly under it.To be honest it'd be tricky to work under it, the camera sits very close to the object and if you focus on the top of a component the board is out of focus.

author: MrAl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2022, 11:00:35 am
content: Quote from: Cyber Akuma on July 31, 2022, 06:51:56 pmHi there,Cameras can be very tricky. There is the resolution for one thing, and that is important, but also the way it handles dark and light objects.For one, i dont think i would get anything less than 5 megapixels. You may get away with 2 megapixels, but never go down below that they suck bad.You can also look into book scanners. They make some with a scissor arm you can adjust.Also, you probably dont want to use any LED light that is attached to the camera because you will want to vary the angle of the light to get the best image, and that's a little tricky because you can easily get 'glare' and that wipes the area it covers so you cant see anything. Lighting from the side seems good but you can experiment.Also you can try a good set of opto glasses that fit like glasses except they have two very high power lenses. These things work pretty good. I got a cheap set and it works good and has a choice of about 5 different magnification powers and they go up pretty high at least 10x but even higher. 8x is pretty good.Dont know if you want that for long hours over the bench though i use mine for short time periods.What you could do is buy from a place that allows returns. That way you can try one and see if you like it, send it back then get another one and try that, etc. Amazon has pretty good return policies but watch out for some sellers that dont ship prime it may take longer to get a refund.

author: Old Printer
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2022, 02:50:31 pm
content: This guy on YT gives a very honest appraisal of a decent quality digital microscope for soldering ($250 ish if I recall). Based on that, I wouldn't expect much for one under $100.

author: Cyber Akuma
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2022, 04:03:29 pm
content: I had someone recommend I try to "build" one essentially with a good HDMI microscope camera like something by HAYEAR such as this:https://www.amazon.com/HAYEAR-Industrial-Electronic-Digital-Microscope/dp/B07NSNQSGKAnd attach a lens, stand, and HDMI screen to it.Issue is I have to scour ebay, aliexpress, banggood, etc to manage to grab deals when/if they popup.... and even with deals I am spending closer to $150-200 for that whole setup. Since it would cost closer to $300 to grab all the components on Amazon.Issue is, if it starts nearing $300 I was recommended a very good quality binocular microscope with additional HDMI out at that pricepoint.....:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832694057535.htmlBut that thing is MASSIVE and I do not have anywhere close to $300 to spend on one, much less the $60 shipping from China as well. Especially not for something I am not at all doing professionally. And even if I had the $300 to spend, I don't have room for that massive thing.Any opinions on any of this?

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2022, 05:49:40 pm
content: I agree with jpanhalt, start with a eye loupe, a head visor and invest into decent lighting.If you feel you don't get along with this, Then start searching for a microscope.I would not waste money on crappy microscopes.We have some at work which are great to work with, but they cost 1000's.

author: JohanH
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2022, 06:14:29 pm
content: With this type of magnifying lamp, you solder 1206 comfortably all day long (and even smaller if necessary). I use it for all sorts of other stuff when lighting and nowadays also a bit poorer vision requires it. E.g. inspection of parts, crimping dupont size crimps, cutting tiny stuff etc.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2022, 10:31:55 pm
content: Quote from: MikeK on July 31, 2022, 07:05:58 pmOptiVisors and other plain optical solutions such as loupes should be considered first for the electronics lab. A good loupe can be very handy away from the bench.I'm not dismissing the need for a microscope of some sort, just that good ones are expensive and less versatile than an Optivisor or a good loupe. I just see going this route as a better move on new work bench.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2022, 11:32:42 pm
content: Quote from: Cyber Akuma on August 01, 2022, 04:03:29 pmThat would be something I would suggest after getting basic magnification equipment. Currently the camera industry, in this case SLR's and DSLR's is going through a very painful transition. You can literally find Nikon and Cannon lens in thrift shops for a few dollars and sometimes at yard sales. Get an adapter and connect one of these lenses to a quality video camera with HDMI or better output and you can have a very nice camera for next to nothing. Well low cost compared to buying the optic decade ago. The real problem comes with the mechanical mounting with a structure of suitable stiffness..QuoteYes exactly.QuoteThe simple answer here is don't buy everything on Amazon. Beyond that if you start out with the loupes or magnifiers guys are suggesting here, you will save a lot of money initially. With a bit of repair work you will get a better grasp on what you will need in a more elaborate unit. in other words don't jump the gun until you have had a bit of experience with the types of work you expect to do.QuoteI wouldn't even bother with Chinese vendors on alieexpress, unless you know the vendor by reputation. It is possible to get good optics over seas but it is also highly likely that you will end up with crap. The reality is quality optics cost money even in China.QuoteThen don't. Honestly you don't need it to get started.QuoteOpinions:Start with the simple optical solutions first. Everybody has their favorite approach, be it Optivisor,, loupe, or counter balanced illuminated magnifiers. While it might surprise some people Tool and die makers and others involved in precision machining have had to deal with not being able to see since the end of the 1800's. They (machinist) have a range of things that offer magnification from the famous OptiVisor to lenses that clip on your eye glasses.You may eventually want or need a more elaborate magnification system but realize that such systems that can work over a reasonably sized board have to be made stiff to prevent vibrations. at work we have all sorts of optical inspection scopes and some of them sit on 4" round columns and are very heavy. While that is the extreme and is needed at very high magnifications even at a few X or magnification vibrations can be an issue requiring what looks like over sized tubing or frame work. Mounting a camera on 8mm bar stock is a recipe for frustration and endless wiggles. Better to buy the good stuff when you need it and can afford it.When it the shop people often forget the cell phone that sits in their pocket. These can often serve magnification duty. While the screens are tiny you get everything in one package. If you can get a used one no longer on a network they can be cheap and useful in a pinch.Somebody mentioned lighting above and frankly that is far more important than magnification at the bench. Given that, if you do have a magnifier of some sort, the more you try to enlarge something the more light you will need beyond basic bench lighting. Which brings us to the spring counter balanced magnifier lenses, if you go this route make sure it supplies its own light source. These counter balanced magnifiers are available from DAZORhttps://www.dazor.com/store/circline-magnifiers.htmlbut there are more economical solutions, I just have a hard time coming up with a proper search string. So the link is for the concept not a recommendation.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2022, 11:52:07 pm
content: Quote from: Cyber Akuma on August 01, 2022, 02:40:17 amI don't think it makes any difference, either theoretically or in practice.As some whose eyesight is no longer as good as it was, strongly consider paying alittleto experiment with what works for you. With luck you won't need to spend too much money, but if you do then you will already have experience to inform your decision.Something like thishttps://www.amazon.co.uk/Kidoo-Magnifier-Handsfree-Magnifying-Professional/dp/B08GKXHJFN/is widely available under many names, you can vary the magnification, use with your own glasses, and when upside down peering into a cabinet.

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2022, 04:55:50 pm
content: I collect microscopes as well as use them for SMD work. One thing to keep in mind is that working with SMD, 10X maybe too much magnification. I find 5X is about right for me. I am currently using Nikon SMZ-1 with barrow lens for this purpose. A barrow lens attaches under objective lens and changes magnification. I am using 0.5x type so I am actually reducing magnification.My recommendation would be to buy microscopes used, rather than new. Treated correctly, these things last long time. You can find similar ones in your price range on eBay. I've seen inexpensive ones around 100 dollars new, but in person, I can see they are made cheap. I cannot recommend them.

author: Microdoser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2022, 06:57:56 pm
content: Another thing to consider, is if you are getting boards made for you, often you can get a solder paste mask very cheaply at the same time. Applying the solder paste in the right areas is then very easy, hold the board fixed, tape down the mask, spread the solder paste.Then place the components in the right place and orientation. Once that is done, hold them down with something heatproof and tack one pin or end or corner. Then run your soldering iron across the other legs/pins/edges, and if you've used enough flux, you should have almost perfectly soldered SMD components. No microscope needed.Of course, getting a scope will make the job far easier and allow you to see any tiny bridges etc.

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2022, 09:02:41 pm
content: Quote from: Cyber Akuma on July 31, 2022, 06:51:56 pmQuote from: tkamiya on August 04, 2022, 04:55:50 pmFirst, I don't have a lot of experience with SMD, but I am a beginner who managed to get over the intimidation of working with SMD. I managed to do SMD's down to 1mm pitch done most of the time. So I think this experience may be interesting to you.I agree withtkamiyathat 10x is probably too much, but right for post-soldering inspection. For me, I mostly use a 10x loupe and occasionally a 30x for post-soldering inspection.To do soldering, I use reading glasses - they are just magnifiers. You can get it cheaply from 1.25x to 3.00x for about $3 from Walmart, and it was $5 for a 3-pack! (<-- pre inflation price of 2yrs ago). Since they are just simple magnifiers, you candouble them up. My normal reading glass is 1.5x, I use that for doing SMDs (1mm pitch). When I need more, I can switch to my 2.5x. If I need even more, I can wear the 2.5x on top of the 1.5x -- effectively same as a 3.75x.Getting over how intimidating the tiny SMD legs are is the hard part. It held me back for a long time. I use an old cell phone for practices. I choose an SMD of the targeted size on the cell phone PCBs, de-solder it, re-solder it, de-solder it... So on. A few of the practice SMD eventually had their legs melted off, but it is an old cell phone and I don't care.After practicing that for a while, I managed to get the soldering time to be under the data-sheet limit of the actual SMD I was planning to use. My first two attempts of doing the 1mm pitch were successful. My first 4 (ADS1115 and INA219) attempts killed only one IC. Now I am achieving much better success rate than that. SMD led's, resisters, are now just plain easy. Practice is the key, and of course getting going is the first step. That old cell phone did me great service by being my test bed (more precisely, my practice bed).I hope my "get it started" experience is useful to you.

author: Cyber Akuma
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2022, 04:00:10 pm
content: I figured it might be a good idea to bring this back up again because it came up in some other topics I posted recently.Basically, I am going to build one, and already have the main parts... but it's the stand/holder of all things that is hard to find.So I was recommended by someone who does professional work to try basically building a microscope. I wasn't aware that you could just buy the parts individually like that, and assumed it would cost far more anyway if you did, but they were able to help me find a good deal.The main thing they focused on that would be a concern is latency/lag, and stressed that most of the cameras that output over USB would have this, and to focus on HDMI output. They actually used a "Hayear 34MP 2K 1080P" themselves. This thing is about $120 on Amazon alone, but they were able to direct me to an eBay seller that had them for less... and that's when I found they also had an auction for one that practically nobody was bidding on.Likewise for the lens, the seller had several lenses for around $12-20, including a very good one that normally goes for around $75-80 on amazon that again almost nobody was bidding on.So in the end I managed to get the camera and four lenses (though the big 50mm one is likely massive overkill for this) for a pretty good price... now I just need to "assemble" them into a miscroscope.These are the parts I have now:Camera:https://www.ebay.com/itm/185515358839?nma=true&si=0g%252FH8L6YWVzO2MqVVu9ms2IEeyg%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l255750mm lenshttps://www.ebay.com/itm/185515365784?nma=true&si=0g%252FH8L6YWVzO2MqVVu9ms2IEeyg%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l255735mm lenses:https://www.ebay.com/itm/185383773283?nma=true&si=0g%252FH8L6YWVzO2MqVVu9ms2IEeyg%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557https://www.ebay.com/itm/185383784813?nma=true&si=0g%252FH8L6YWVzO2MqVVu9ms2IEeyg%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557I tested them and they work fine, my main issue is now putting them on a stand or so. And possibly finding a screen I can also attach to said stand so I don't have to plug them into a TV or monitor... although I might just forego that and use a TV or monitor anyway since it allows for a significantly bigger screen.It also doesn't help that while the other two lenses I got are of the 35-40mm adapter standard, the first one I got is 50mm. Most of the ones I saw don't support 50mm lenses.The first stand I tried was this:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094J5SPDZI figured it was pretty cheap, especially for one that comes with lights, and while the ring sadly appeared to be one piece so I could not replace it with a 50mm one for my larger lens, it had a large base and a 40mm ring so I could at least use the other lenses. However when I got it, the ring was much smaller than advertised, as was the base, so I had to return it.I have been unable to find any other decent ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, especially not one that either has a removable ring or comes with a 50mm one (I can always get a 50mm to 40mm adapter to use the smaller lenses). Closest I have run across is this:https://www.amazon.com/Microscope-Camera-Aluminium-Bracket-Support/dp/B08NHZCLL1/But while it's not going to break the bank, it's also not cheap... and has zero reviews while also having a small base and short length to adjust the height, so I am not sure how much I can trust that one.I also found some random cheaper ones from the same brand as the camera, but they seem incredibly low quality (they seem to have ports that were intended for SD cards or other peripherals from whatever mold for a clearly different product they used that were filled in.. also they were pretty tiny)Also now I am hearing that direct light like that is not a good idea and it's better to use a ring light. When I looked up that camera/50mm lens on amazon it was normally paired with a ring light... but it had no stand recommendations to attach it all to.So I wanted to ask here if anyone else here ever did anything like this. If they have any idea what kind of stand/where I can get one to set this all up. And if possible a decent screen (There are plenty of screens intended for a Pi or so that are $15-50 that would accept HDMI input, but I have no idea how I would mount them to the stand) to go with it.

author: Vtile
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2022, 02:01:58 pm
content: Old Canon / Nikon DSLR body with zoom macro lens (Ie. Sigma etc.) + TV screen.There is also one microscope build around RPI on hackaday (RPI + RPI camera module). Have done one by myself (pre-covid). Haven't yet done SMD soldering with it though, down side is the rather small lens distance for higher magnification.

author: robca
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2022, 07:03:52 pm
content: Cameras lack depth perception. I could never get to solder properly using a camera setup. And unless you spend good money on a lens, the lens will be too close to the work area, getting in the wayThe best way to go is to look for a used Bausch&Lomb Stereozoom microscope. Built from the 50s to the late 90s (I think), they built millions, and the market is flooded with good quality used units. It's a professional tool, with proper lenses and tons of accessories. Manuals (including assembly/disassembly) are available online. You can find the body for less than $50, and you need to add oculars and a stand. Stands are the most expensive part, and if you can hack together something, you have a professional setup for less than $100.I'm not endorsing this particular listing, but you can see all you need herehttps://www.ebay.com/itm/165574361086the body, oculars, and the mechanism to focus the head. That mechanism needs a sturdy cantilevered support with a hole, and you are set. That listing also says it's aligned (very important, some are messed up) and optically working. It's a zoom microscope, so you can ensure you have the right field of view for your work. It has 16x oculars, which frankly are too much for SMD soldering. As others have said, you will spend most of your time between 5x and 10x. So you'd either need a Barlow lens (which also doubles your work depth), or buy 5x oculars, which are cheap and easily available. You can self build the stand, but you need to main body holder with the focusing mechanism, that would be almost impossible to self build and achieve smooth focusing action over a wide rangeI'm almost 60, and can solder 0201 without problems with a B&L stereo microscope. Don't waste time with cameras, all pro's solder using stereo microscope for a reason

author: nigelwright7557
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2022, 07:08:11 pm
content: Quote from: jpanhalt on July 31, 2022, 09:27:05 pmI just use 2.5 reading glasses and a x10 magnifying glass.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2022, 10:45:03 pm
content: Quote from: nigelwright7557 on October 08, 2022, 07:08:11 pmI like the head magnifiers too. They are a cheap experiment and are useful in more circumstances than a microscope - e.g. peering sideways into a board inside a case.

author: RichardM
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2022, 03:58:58 am
content: What model Donegan OptiVisor would you recommend for soldering etcRegards

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2022, 08:08:11 am
content: Quote from: RichardM on October 09, 2022, 03:58:58 amI wouldn't recommend anything, since it is a very personal choice. IMHO experimentation is useful to determine what will suit you. Hopefully experimentation can be cheap.Having said that, I use these:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-60390-Loupe-Magnifier-Visor/dp/B001MJ0JW2They are widely available from many sources, and are often rebranded. I like them since I can wear my glasses (useful if your eyes are different) and they have several lenses so you can experiment with different magnifications.

author: voltsandjolts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 09, 2022, 08:28:05 am
content: Quote from: RichardM on October 09, 2022, 03:58:58 amEdit: I use this for inspection, but working distance is too close for soldering. There are longer working distance types available with less magnification.Optivisor DA-7x2.75 with 6" working distanceNice proper glass magnifying elements reduce eye strain (for me) when using for longer periods.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252738346690But yes, this is just my preference and vision is very personal.

author: mc172
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2022, 11:21:45 am
content: I don't ever really need to use one because I'm short-sighted and can solder down to about 0402 without magnification but any time I've given them a go I've always found that microscopes and especially that really expensive Mantis thing make me feel dizzy after even a few minutes of use when soldering. Maybe I need to stop huffing the fumes so much.

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2022, 08:47:03 pm
content: Magnifier lamps of the type pictured in reply #12 are good, I can and do perform occasional 0603 and SOIC sized SMD work under one.But while a digital microscope might loose you depth perception, I find working with a big screen showing the image, so you can sit comfortably back rather than have to lean over your soldering, gives a much nicer experience.While you can get a very adequate magnifier lamp as a no-brand on various websites for about £30, fidning a cheap and appropriate microscope is hard. The really important thing is the focal distance, it must be quite long so the camera can sit high enough above your workspace not to get in the way of your hands and the back end of your iron. I haven't seen cheap options for long focal length digital microscopes, seems the only market for them is SMD soldering and so they aren't mass-market enough to have economies of scale price drops. Whereas magnifier lamps, and normal digital microscopes for very high amounts of zoom but at short distances, have much wider ranegs of use and many mroe buyers, hence lower prices.

author: Cyber Akuma
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2022, 11:37:12 pm
content: Quote from: Infraviolet on October 10, 2022, 08:47:03 pmI agree, and the fact that I don't need to be careful about losing track of what I am looking at at a high level of magnification from just slightly moving/shaking my head also helps. I can always get that head-magnifier if the digital microscope does not work out. But since I already have half the parts and mostly just need a stand and possibly a screen I might as well try going the digital route for now. Not like I am just going to return all these parts I got about two months ago and give up with a half-built digital microscope.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2022, 07:30:12 pm
content: Quote from: tggzzz on October 09, 2022, 08:08:11 amYeah I need something like that and a big desktop mag-lens and light.I have a loupe, and it's great, but not hands free. I also have a Andostar M.S., with a little screen, and it's nice but the camera needs an arm that can move it around over big PCB's. The default stand/base is pretty small with not much clearance. So I don't use it much, most stuff I work on is annoying too large.

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2022, 06:13:39 pm
content: I have lots of optivisors as depending on what I am doing, magnification required is different.By the way... READING GLASSES will make a fine loupe. They are available locally and cheaply.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2022, 06:51:19 pm
content: Quote from: tkamiya on November 06, 2022, 06:13:39 pmPretty much true in theory, but the loupes I have are all glass; the reading glasses are cheap plastic and get easily scratched. Additionally, don't confuse "diopter" with magnification. The formula is: (diopter/4) +1 = magnification Thus, for 2X, you need +4.0 diopter; 2.5X requires +6 diopter. Both might be hard to find, particularly the latter.

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2022, 06:59:43 pm
content: Quote from: jpanhalt on November 06, 2022, 06:51:19 pmThey work fine for me. I encourage OP to try a few at local pharmacies. Problems with microscopes and even "stereo" microscopes are perception of depth. I have a few here. Great for inspection work but works poorly for assembly.

author: robca
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2022, 09:28:07 pm
content: Quote from: tkamiya on November 06, 2022, 06:59:43 pmStereo microscopes have no problems with depth perception. As a matter of fact, pretty much all SMD rework specialists use a stereo microscope for their work, not cameras, magnifiers, etc. I agree that single lens magnifiers and camera microscopes are really bad for fine SDM work, due to the loss of depth perception. Glasses and head-mounted stereo magnifiers are ok for bigger SMD work, but you will have a hard time working with the smaller components (0402 and below) or chips with very fine pitch. And the older you get, the worse they workStereo microscopes maintain the same perception of depth as your eyes, if properly used. Zoom stereo microscopes give you the best choice of magnification and field of view, something harder to achieve with glasses. And a stereo microscope works well even for old farts like me

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2022, 09:59:21 pm
content: Quote from: robca on November 06, 2022, 09:28:07 pmI wish very much if that is the case for ME. I've been at this for few years and I still struggle to manage hand-eye cordination when using stereo microscopes.

author: Cyber Akuma
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2022, 10:08:07 pm
content: I appreciate the help about the visors, but as I mentioned I already have some microscope parts I got a while ago, was just trying to find a decent stand to connect them all to.

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2022, 11:00:25 pm
content: Reading glasses can be stacked...you don't have to find the entire magnification in one set.Your smartphone can be used as a simple microscope (the 12M camera on mine does digital 7x zoom with the stock software and still gives a useful image). You just have to figure out how to mount it and add plenty of light on the subject.Your actual needs will depend on how good your eyes are to start with and how small the stuff you're soldering is.

author: robca
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2022, 12:59:37 am
content: Quote from: Nusa on November 06, 2022, 11:00:25 pmPSA: almost all modern smartphone lenses are plastic. The last thing you want is a splat of solder on your expensive smartphone lens. Or have an hot air station too close to your phone. My stereo microscope lens collects a lot of crud, and I'm glad it's an easy to clean glass and not a smartphoneSmartphones as magnifiers are great for a lot of scenarios, soldering is not one of them