hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
DURATECH TS 1620 SOLDERING STATION. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: neko efecktz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2017, 03:18:49 am
content: Yesterday I started a thread on the Dick Smith T2000 soldering station.Or rather replacing the hand piece.I haven't resolved My questions yet but I'm working on it.Meanwhile I decided to check out the insides of my Duratech TS-1620 soldering station that I bought to get me by until I was able to get another Dick Smith station, The T-2200It's just as good, if not better than the T-2000.Today I was surprised to find that the inside of the Duratech TS-1620 was not what I expected.First there was a heavy steel plate inside to give the feel of a transformer.There was no transformer.Instead I found a small PCB about 30 X 40mm.Mains in - basically a dimmer control and chopped up mains to the iron. (NOTE)... I didn't remove the PCB to get a good look at it because that would wreck the iron altogether.There is no Thermostat, thermo couple or thermistor feedback at all.The tool is earthed but then I was soldering Cmos and working on Micro controllers with this iron.For transistor circuits it is probably fine.BILL.
Duratech TS1640 Underheating - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: an_kiwi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 22, 2024, 03:25:38 am
content: Hi guysI have got that Duratech TS1640 60W soldering station for free. It uses 900m tips.The only problem is that it underheats. I need to set 330C to melt regular 60/40Inside there is a transformer 220v => 24v 1.5 A.Sorry for my noobism but 2 questions:1) how can that be 60w if 24v x 1.5a gives maximum 36W?2) is there any way to correct/increase the temperature scale?

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2024, 09:34:16 am
content: I would start by checking the heating element. It has a thermistor built in that may have gone bad or the element is just worn out.Some clear pictures of the inside of the control unit and the circuit board might reveal something that has failed as well.Check the voltage of the 24V side of transformer with multimeter. Careful of the high voltage.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2024, 08:18:41 pm
content: Which of the following is the problem:1. The iron is always at a lower temperature than the display indicates but it does get hot enough if the display is ignored and the adjustment buttons are used to get to a point where the actual soldering performance is as required.2. The display appears to indicate the actual temperature reasonably accurately but the soldering performance is inadequate because the iron does not seem to get hot enough even when the setting is at or near the upper limit?

author: an_kiwi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 23, 2024, 09:53:35 pm
content: I believe it is more #1 if I adjust the temperature disregarding the meter it works relatively fine.But I find that even at maximum (480C) it under performs. I was doing relatively big pads on a m/bI measured the wattage and at max it was 24W
DUT Isolation question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Another_Newbie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 01:05:56 pm
content: Hello folks, I have watched an uncountable amount of youtube videos and read various explanations on transformers that have left me with a few questions/concerns still. I purchased a center tapped step down transformer to take my ~120V AC voltage down to 18v. Then, after some more reading I saw that I needed a specific transformer to do the isolation so I ordered the "Triad Magnetics N-51X Isolation Transformer".Links for Transformers: CT Step-Down -https://abra-electronics.com/power-supplies-transformers-adapters/open-frame-ct-transformers/trf-170-36v-1a-open-frame-ct-transformer-trf-170.htmlIsolation -http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/410/media-1068200.pdfFirst of all, is this sufficient? I plan to use this to make a small bench-top PSU for testing my other projects with my oscilloscope/multi-meter and I would like to be sure everything is as safe as possible for both myself and my gear.Secondly, I know this one is gonna sound stupid, but how do I wire the isolation transformer? The white cable labelled "SHIELD", I would assume would be hooked to the PSU chassis with the black leads going to the mains and red to the step-down primary. I thought since this is potentially dangerous, it's worth sounding dumb for a minute to get it right.Also, is there a way to safely test my final output leads to make sure they actually are isolated before I go mucking about with them?

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 04:11:15 pm
content: As a general rule, all mains transformers provide sufficient protection, against electric shock. The data sheet should specify what standards it complies with. The 18V transformer you've linked to is fine on its own. There is no need for an additional isolation transformer.The shield helps to prevent leakage from the mains, to the secondary, via the transformer's inter-winding capacitance. It can be connected to earth, to suppress noise.Isolation from the mains needs to be tested at a high voltage, with a device known as a high-pot tester, but if you've bought a decent transformer, it's not necessary.

author: Another_Newbie
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 05:23:34 pm
content: Thanks for the reply. That'll make life a little easier.
Duty cycle of Schmitt inverter oscillator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: helix1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2015, 11:16:25 pm
content: I have a single Schmitt inverter with a capacitor (47nF) between the input and ground, and a resistor (6.8K) between input and output. The chip I am using is a 74HCT14 powered by a battery with Vcc at 6V. The oscillator frequency is around 6kHz.I thought that the duty cycle of this oscillator would be 50%, as the oscillator should be charging and discharging through the same resistor, but I am finding that the output is high for roughly 3 times longer than low. Why could this be happening?

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2015, 11:22:31 pm
content: "74HCT14 is a hex inverter with Schmitt-trigger inputs. This device features reduced input threshold levels to allow interfacing to TTL logic levels"Use a HC.

author: helix1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2015, 11:28:09 pm
content: ok... sorry for being a bit slow, but even if the threshold levels are lower, shouldn't it take the same time to charge up and discharge down between the levels anyway?

author: MagicSmoker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2015, 11:35:26 pm
content: Quote from: helix1 on December 12, 2015, 11:16:25 pmIn addition to not using the TTL compatible version, note that the hysteresis between switching levels in Schmitt trigger logic tends to wander around a bit, which means you can't guarantee 50% duty regardless what family you use (AC, HC, VLC, whatever). If you absolutely need 50% duty - all the time, guaranteed - then use a flip-flop* to divide by 2 (you will need to set the oscillator frequency twice as high, obviously).* - almost any kind can be used:http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/counter/count_1.html

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2015, 12:00:07 am
content: Quote from: helix1 on December 12, 2015, 11:28:09 pmThe charging current is around ~(6-1.3)/R and the discharge current is ~1.3/R, so no it shouldn't.

author: helix1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2015, 12:04:28 am
content: thanks guys, very helpful!

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2015, 05:04:00 am
content: You can use a 555 as a pretty accurate Schmitt trigger with limits at 1/2 and 2/3 VCC.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2015, 09:19:29 am
content: Quote from: MagicSmoker on December 12, 2015, 11:35:26 pmYes, a flip-flop is a good idea.If a dual flip-flop IC is used, such as the CD4013 or 74HC74, then rather than using a 74HC14 as an oscillator, one of the flip-flops could be configured as an astable.
DVD player Troubleshooting( what should be my next step) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: lightray03
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 10, 2015, 12:50:22 pm
content: hello im a newbie troubleshooter for electronics, and an ECE student,we have a dvd player in house, and when my parents tell me that our player is turning on its on/off state,i try to repair itat first i discharged the filter capacitor and replace it with a new one,and test it actual but i forgot something the output of the powersupplyit has wrong inputs to the board next to it, pls refer below (sorry if i have no screenshots/picture)+5v gnd +12v -12v (INPUT supply to the board-12v +12v +5v +5v(Output from the power supply)before that i noticed the FR diodes are broken and emits a smoke, i replace all the FR diodes,but still nothing, it has supply, but what makes me think is that rather than 5v and 12v it outputs 15 and 20vbut when i tip the probe to the board and the power supply, it output 5v and 20vwhen i tried to replace 431 transistor still nothing happens it does have supply but does not turning on,(sorry for my bad english) please help me in what to do next

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2015, 03:27:54 pm
content: Pictures? Schematic (you'll have to trace one if you can't find one)?Or are you saying that it was fried because of wrong input voltages? In that case it's probably beyond repair.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2015, 09:45:04 am
content: You put the cable in the wrong way round, and likely this has burnt out the diodes, and the main board as well.

author: lightray03
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 12, 2015, 01:35:27 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on January 11, 2015, 09:45:04 ami've checked all the diodes on the main board and the transistors as well, and they are all good, i've fixed the supply andsupplied the board with the correct voltage,now the problem is, it plays and turn ON but when the movie plays or the inserted disk plays, it suddenly pause and leave the LED display on but having no power on the DVD/CD Driver
DVD power supply  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vlad1996
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 25, 2021, 12:43:50 pm
content: DVD power supply how to bypass and and convert it to bench supply

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2021, 01:13:28 pm
content: Impossible to answer. Insufficient information provided.Odds are it will make a pretty crappy power supply anyway. IMHO beginners should avoid power supply projects until they know enough to understand the operation and potential disadvantages of a specific design given the schematic, and to be able to draw up a simple three terminal linear regulator based design for themselves.
DYI Power Supply Plans/Kits - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kasslloyd
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2011, 06:25:11 pm
content: Anyone have links to good power supply plans or even kits that are in the realm for a beginner to do? I've tried searching the forums but haven't found anything concrete..

author: tekfan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2011, 07:06:33 pm
content: This has been a long time standard at least for me. I've ruggedised it somewhat and it works fine:Very detailed description and theory of operation.http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/power/001/index.htmlAnother option is the discrete MC1466 supply You'll have to do some calculations and select some components yourself but it's worth it.This can be built into a beast of a supply.http://www3.telus.net/chemelec/Projects/MC1466/MC1466.htmOr you could just throw up a LM317 circuit. Google it, you'll definetly find something.

author: sacherjj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2011, 07:36:03 pm
content: What are your goals for the power supply?What do you want to run?Variable/Fixed Voltage?Current limiting?Quote from: tekfan on May 04, 2011, 07:06:33 pmThat is pretty bad assed. Not quite happy with how the IC was doing it, rework the sucker in discrete components.My current limited supply based on two LM350s is waiting for me to make it, but this looks like a fun challenge. Guess you can never had too many supplies.

author: johnboxall
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 05, 2011, 02:13:43 am
content: Your profile doesn't show your location, so this may be of interest to you.Am in the process of building on of these:http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=K3218Not the cheapest, but a fun build.

author: kasslloyd
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2011, 08:25:42 pm
content: Guess I should of stated I'm in the United States, so the mains are 110v. As for what I'd need, I'm interested in the types in Dave's lab setup video....Budget for them is ~$200 maybe more
Dying LiPo Battery produces Intermittent Voltage  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: emanuelemessina
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 28, 2021, 10:23:09 am
content: Hi,the other day a friend of mine asked me if i could figure out why his bluetooth speaker was crackling and sometimes suddenly shutting itself down like there was no power.I immediately checked the battery (LiPo, 3.7v) and indeed, it could not hold charge for a decent amount of time: when connected to a load ( in my case a 3.5v little incandescent bulb ), the voltage drops from 3.7 nominal to 2-ish in a minute or so. When disconnected, the open circuit voltage returns to 3.7 V.The 2 volts were enough to still power the little bulb, until after some minutes, the bulb started turning on and off at a stable frequency, with a period of like a second, the voltage was switching between 2 and 0 volts (checked with oscilloscope).I recorded a brief video of the phenomenon :https://imgur.com/a/yOqExz9With time, the frequency began to slowly drop, as well as the voltage and so the light intensity, as someone would expect.I'm really curious, I have just a basic knowledge of the working principle of a Lithium Ion Battery, but I can't figure out why this happens. Is this a normal behavior of dying LiPo batteries? And why it happens?

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2021, 10:35:08 am
content: That lithium battery has a PCM in it.It's not just a battery but a battery with a little circuit board containing an IC and a few transistors. It's intended to keep the battery safe.Given that batteries age/condition your bulb might be too much of a load for it and the voltage drops below a safe level so the PCM disconnects your bulb.Then the cell recovers its voltage (because there is no load any more) and the PCM reconnects your bulb when it thinks it's safe to do so.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2021, 01:31:45 pm
content: Protected cells do this. Also, the phenomenon of "recovery" once disconnected is not unique to lion chemistry - I believe it has to do with the diffusion of the reactants. It sounds like that cell has far too much internal resistance to power its load.
Dynamic gain/automatic ranging for maximizing bit depth in measuring equipment? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cape zoloh
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2020, 02:00:41 pm
content: Is this something that is used in, lets say oscilloscopes? I have next to no knowledge in how they work, only that they use fast but low resolution ADCs.Now lets talk multimeters.The high resolution (and low res) multimeters I have used have a couple of ranges, usually in [max ADC input] x10, x1, 1/10, 1/100 and so on.The x1 range is the optimum, the others are "the next best thing". Most bit loss happens when your measurement is the furthest away from the range.Wouldn't it sometimes be nice to have a feature that automatically amplifies the input signal, in order to make that x0.1 or whatever signal=x1, and then compensate for that gain in post?Does this cause more problems than what is (sorry..) gained?

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2020, 09:49:26 pm
content: Some multimeters (and oscilloscopes) do exactly that; the most sensitive range is produced by switching in a preamplifier without adjusting the attenuation. Another trick multimeters sometimes do is to attenuate the reference for the analog-to-digital converter to 1/10th its normal value which has the same effect.Oscilloscopes use frequency compensated attenuators to achieve wide bandwidth while multimeters use a decade divider which is acceptable without frequency compensation at lower frequencies.
Dz1054z and csv  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Aztlanpz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2015, 07:05:31 pm
content: How to I capture more then 120k point from a Rigol dz1054z and have it exported to a csv file?Thanksaztlan

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2015, 10:01:32 pm
content: Set your "Mem Depth" in the Acquire menu to the number of points you want.Set "CSV" in Storage>Storage menu item.Set "Memory" in Storage>DataSrc menu item.Select your desired Channel in Storage>ChannelSelect your USB storage in Storage>SaveBe willing to wait a while for the CSV file... the more points, the longer it takes for the scope to write the file. It is _slow_.

author: Aztlanpz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2015, 10:04:03 pm
content: Is there a way to do it from usb with software?

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2015, 10:31:04 pm
content: Quote from: Aztlanpz on August 13, 2015, 10:04:03 pmThere may be but I haven't figured out how. Maybe someone else knows. I use DSRemote (linux) for basic scope control and screenshots over USB or LAN, but I don't remember if it will fetch CSV files.
E-Bike front light question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: projlight
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 29, 2023, 06:33:02 pm
content: Hello everyone.I have an E-Bike front light question. I have an e-bike that uses a Bafang 500W motor and a 48V 17.5 AH battery.https://www.amazon.ca/BAFANG-Electric-Conversion-Chainring-Display/dp/B07QH4PZZW/I purchased a Magic Shine ME2000 bike front lighthttps://magicshine.com/collections/e-bike-lights/products/me-2000https://www.magicshine.us/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Magicshine%C2%AE-ME-2000-e-Bike-Headlight-User-Manual.pdfa few weeks ago. The light requires 12V, 24W to reach its max. Lumen output of 2000 lumens.I got a buck converter to drop the voltage from 48V to 12V:https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0789WJLGMI split the battery output in parallel with this splitter:https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0B4R5LCF6After connecting the light, I was disappointed with the light output. I have a 500 lumen (Light & Motion) stand-alone light and it is brighter than this one although it has a quarter lumen output of the ME2000.The manual states that the light requires 24W of power to operate at full 2000 Lumens. I measured the current draw and it is 0.21A on high, 0.14A on medium and 0.1A on low. Obviously, that is not enough current to drive this light properly. Also, the light enclosure is cool to the touch (the 500 lumen light gets very warm / hot)So, to remove the buck converter from the picture, I connected the ME2000 light directly to a 12V 1.5Ah dewalt battery. There was no improvement in the light output or current draw. In fact, it was identical.Any ideas what could be wrong, and how to fix this? Thank you.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2023, 10:58:41 pm
content: This is a really odd light, it gives no mention in the spec about voltage range. Although it has the table on the website stating it will run off 6 or 12V, and "The light can judge the maximum brightness automatically according to the output power of the motor interface". In hindsight it would have been better to get a "dumb" light, anyway:How many wires are coming out of the magicshine, is it just two wires?Have you tried covering up the ambient light sensor to make sure that was not affecting it?

author: ejeffrey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2023, 02:52:23 am
content: It seems like it has a light sensor and runs in low output mode when it's daylight. Does covering the sensor help?

author: projlight
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 30, 2023, 06:30:26 am
content: I have run the lite at night in my garage...almost complete darkness...no change. Of course, all my testing was already done in a dark environment prior to that.

author: projlight
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 30, 2023, 06:35:06 am
content: The light comes with 2 wires. I have covered up the sensor to mimmick complete darkness. There was no change. The light comes with an extention cable that plugs into the cable coming out of the light. I'm starting to wonder if the guage of that wire is thick enough to carry 2A. It is very thin.
E-field and H-field measurment in low frequencies - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mrkva
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 02, 2016, 04:23:51 pm
content: Hello everyone,I would like to measure H-field and E-field energy in low frequencies (0-100kHz). All the probes I find for those purposes are mostly 100kHz upwards, and generally oriented towards the MHz and GHz range.Do you have any suggestions for good probes for my range OR a way of generating exact (reference) amount of energy in H/E-field so I could possibly calibrate my own sensor (inductor) for the measurements?Thank you very much!

author: mrkva
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 02, 2016, 06:06:19 pm
content: Additional question - is something like this worth looking into?https://www.gigahertz-solutions.de/en/emf-meters/low-frequency/me-series/396/me3851a?c=159

author: Molenaar
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2016, 08:56:30 pm
content: A Helmholtz coil is well characterised and might serve as a calibration standard, provided you can accurately control its input.

author: mrkva
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 02, 2016, 09:57:23 pm
content: Thank you! Will look into it.Meanwhile I managed to score these two puppies cheap on ebay:http://www.ets-lindgren.com/HI-3603http://www.ets-lindgren.com/HI-3604Very exciting

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2016, 05:42:43 am
content: http://www.vlf.it/many antenna types are on this webpage. search "antenna" to get started. lots of home made stuffhttp://www.vlf.it/feletti/around50hz.htmlvery interesting

author: mrkva
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 03, 2016, 11:10:23 am
content: Thanks for the VLF point (I am aware of it and love the website!), but I would like to have calibrated device, so I have a reference in my lab.
e.g. sizing a resistor in a capacitor testing circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2023, 07:06:30 am
content: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hilbert_Schenckhttps://books.google.co.uk/books/about/Theories_of_Engineering_Experimentation.html?id=i9lhAAAAMAAJ&redir_esc=y.. the attached pictures are from an old-ish book on engineering experimentation I spent part of my free time working through - the maths and physics seem to be straightforward (despite the typos).However sizing the "small" resistor might be problematic - as it is in slightly less than 50ml of watermay be its science fiction

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2023, 08:00:38 am
content: Sizing? Problematic? State the problems you see. 0.1 lb of water is about a shot glass, if you need a visualization. More when you consider the volume of the resistor displacing some of it.Note that pure water is not electrically conductive, but is a much better thermal conductor than air. That will increase the resistors effective wattage rating.

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2023, 08:05:39 am
content: well lets say I use a 1/4 watt resistor and the capacitors don't charge - I wonder what will happen

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2023, 08:08:23 am
content: Quote from: armandine2 on July 03, 2023, 08:05:39 amRun the experiment and find out! That's the entire point of doing it, right?

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2023, 08:13:34 am
content: Quote from: Nusa on July 03, 2023, 08:08:23 amno actually the whole point of this experiment was to use maths for its economical insightsand 1000volts at 0.1 amp is 100 watts

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2023, 06:42:25 pm
content: Watts are Power, Joules are Energy. Joules = Power * time. The point of the experiment was to measure energy, was it not?If you're not going beyond the math, then there are no actual resistors to size or source. What's the problem again?

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2023, 06:39:33 am
content: ... the point is that theory must account for practice - it's not so much that energy is just power x time - but the calculation/theory assumed current will reduce exponentially through the resistor - as you say the water in the calorimeter would improve the resistor's power rating.So I guess my point is that the power sizing of the resistor deserves more attention than Schenck gave it.Ultimately, of course you're right, the experiment will reveal all.Did Schenck do the experiment, and what were those war-surplus capacitors?

author: golden_labels
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2023, 09:36:01 am
content: Initially there will be 1000 V across the resistor. The resistor is in water.Is its wattege really the primary concern here?
E-ink matrix display - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Bambur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2010, 11:57:31 pm
content: I have been wondering if anyone has had some experience of e-ink matrix displays? They have started to attract my attention lately. Herehttp://e-ink.com/products/High_Res_Pearl.htmlare some mechanical specs. Is it possible to purchase such a display off some distributor? I could not find any myself.

author: Balaur
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 17, 2010, 01:05:36 am
content: You can easily buy replacement screens for popular ebook readers. They are quite expensive though.I had to replace my (damaged during transportation) reader screen for about 80$while you could buy the new Kindle for a bit more. You can find the screens on Alibaba, ebay and some other sources.From what I could gather, these devices could be a bit tough to drive correctly. I had to upload in my reader a waveform file that corresponds to the batch number. It seems that the performances of each lot/batch are quite variable and it requires optimized settings (the waveforms file) that instructs the controller on the timings/shape of the control signals, etc to pilot the screen perfectly. Thankfully, some very nice people on some obscure boards provided the manufacturer files and applications to do that.So, I reckon that it may be a bit unpleasant to buy a replacement screen and build some system around it. While you could do that, you may also buy a development/evaluation kit (there are some available, what costs) or a hackable reader and play with it.As an example, in a rare display of kindness and altruism, my PRS-505 reader is quite open: standard USB plug, accepts txt, epub, pdf. It is also quite hackable (very uncharacteristic for Sony). There is even an extended firmware made available by enthusiasts. So, it may be possible to develop your own applications for the device.However, personally, I smell too much headaches in playing with epaper for my own pleasure. Maybe a bit later, when the options will be cheaper and nicer.

author: Bambur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2010, 09:58:23 am
content: Thanks a lot for the reply and pointing out the sites, Balaur! Display controllers and waveforms... sounds very intriguing to meCould anyone tell more please? Any part numbers? Datasheets if any of course?

author: tyblu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2010, 02:12:03 pm
content: Here's a dev board that uses an E-ink display:http://www.crystalfontz.com/product/cfa910Very nifty...
E-Z-Hook "mini-hook" Test Clip - How to attach a wire? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Doc Readout
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 25, 2021, 08:45:53 pm
content: This is probably a really dumb question, but I had a test lead break on one of theseE-Z-Hook test clipsand I don't see a way to re-attach it as the top appears to be glued on. Does anyone know?

author: Wallace Gasiewicz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2021, 09:11:52 pm
content: I think you pull the top off

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2021, 09:22:55 pm
content: Maybe this will give a clue:https://ezhook.wpengine.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/X100W.pdfWhen a hammer or wrench don't seem sufficient, RTFM (read the field manual).

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2021, 09:58:17 pm
content: I am also seeking info on how to solder these. The data sheet offers no help. I need to know how to route the lead wire, what soldering technique to still allow clip to move, etc.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2021, 02:16:56 am
content: What's everyone's opinion of this technique?How To Build J Hook Jumper Wire Test Leads / Mini Grabber Test Clips - John Salthttps://youtu.be/_yH9ytNSG4U?t=3m40sDoesn't make use of the slots in the end.

author: Doc Readout
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 26, 2021, 04:27:55 am
content: Thanks, all... the entire EZ-Hook "bulb" top does indeed just pull off. It looks like the lead wire was originally crimped on, so just laying the newly stripped wire directly on top of the old crimp and soldering it should work fine.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2021, 09:50:37 am
content: I would suggest a little strain relief, like a short piece of heat shrink tubing. I would also remove the old, probably open the crimp, and then solder my wire.

author: Doc Readout
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 26, 2021, 08:07:06 pm
content: Adding heat shrink is a good idea. The crimp on mine looks like it would be tough to open & re-use without damaging the lead post, though. The crimp is nearly mashed down flat and the post metal looks pretty fragile.
EAGLE "inflating" traces to be fat - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: asger
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 22, 2017, 02:05:26 pm
content: Hey there. I'm hoping this is a simple beginners question :-)I am designing a single sided board in EAGLE, which I will mill (not etch) with a small CNC router. Therefore, I would like to eliminate unconnected copper islands (I think they are called orphans in EAGLE?) from the board. I imagine this being done by fattening every trace to fill as much space around itself without connecting to the other traces. Then the router would only have to mill the lines between the traces, and no islands would be left. I have tried to illustrate this on the right side of the attached image. I don't know if this is even possible?Thanks anyway!

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2017, 05:43:51 pm
content: search google for "isolation routing" you'll get tons of tutorials how to do it.

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2017, 07:42:18 pm
content: Google is your friend...try "isolation routing in Eagle" and PCBGCODE as search...
Eagle CAD modify an existing footprint - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: belzrebuth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2023, 05:52:29 pm
content: I've seen posts on the Eagle forum; but nothing seems to work for me.I'm trying to make the mounting pads of a potentiometer footprint to have a small diameter.What I've done is right click on the part > open footprint then edit the diameter and saved my changes.I also updated the library on my .brd file.When I go to "open footprint" again my part remains changed but no changes are shown on the pcb.My part does not show up modified on the preview when I try to replace it though.It does not show as modified on the preview when I browse its library either.Anybody know what I'm doing wrong?

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2023, 07:48:02 pm
content: I think you actually have to swap out the part for the "new" one.

author: liaifat85
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 01:55:27 pm
content: You may find your answer here:The video is quite detailed.

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 02:06:29 pm
content: You need to copy the part to a library file you own. (open library file, then rightclick on part and "copy device to library")Then you make your changes and save the library.Then you need to REPLACE the component. (the replace tool)If you need to change it more, then modifications to existing components in libraries are only applied when you do an UPDATE. (library->update)

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2023, 02:29:38 pm
content: One small addition to "copy" that applies at least to versions 7.x and below. It may apply to later versions too. When copying, be sure to have all layers showing.
EAGLE FIXED CAPACITOR SYMBOLS - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: JJ_pedals
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 07, 2025, 06:38:06 pm
content: I am currently using Eagle software to make schematics for PCB's.. I am making symbols for schematics, My question is what a Swap level is in Fixed Capacitors...J.J Pedals

author: MarkL
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 07, 2025, 07:02:49 pm
content: For polarized capacitors, you could make the pin swap level 0, meaning the pins can't be swapped, or make the two pins different, e.g. 1 and 2. For unpolarized capacitors, you can make the pins the same swap level, e.g. 1, so they can be swapped (assuming the part is physically symmetric).But it sounds like you're starting from scratch. Why put all this work into a dead CAD system? Take a look at Kicad:https://www.kicad.org/It can even import eagle files if you've already started to build your library.

author: MarkL
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 07, 2025, 07:08:54 pm
content: Also, if you don't like eagle's supplied symbols (I know I don't), and you absolutely insist on staying with eagle, take a look at Bob Starr's libraries. They are good looking and fairly consistent in drawing style. He used to have a web site for download which is gone now, but it still exists on archive.org:https://web.archive.org/web/20140816082322/http://bobstarr.net/pages/downloads.htmlEDIT: Actually, it appears Bob moved everything to github:https://github.com/robertstarr
EAGLE layer transparency - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Coceth
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2020, 03:55:51 am
content: Is there a way to adjust the transparency of each layer in EAGLE? It'd be really helpful so I can see past ground planes without toggling different layers on/off. It was easy to do in Altium, but I work with EAGLE now and it's not so obvious.Thanks!

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2020, 04:47:48 am
content: Try single layer mode. Look to the right of the zoom buttons. It's an X with red and grey.
Eagle library with basic components - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Legion
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 02:48:17 pm
content: Anybody have or know where I can find a component library for Eagle with basic components? The libraries it comes with are less than useful. I just need resistors, caps, voltage source, ground, etc.

author: sdg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 05:45:00 pm
content: rcl.lbr or resistor.lbr. Both included with Eagle.

author: Legion
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 07:33:17 pm
content: Quote from: sdg on February 28, 2014, 05:45:00 pmThanks. Not quite what I'm looking for though. I think it's just a limitation of eagle.

author: MatCat
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 07:41:02 pm
content: Sparkfun has a descent library, though in all reality you are best just making your own components, how much can you really trust someone else to get it right? I don't.

author: bronson
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 08:35:39 pm
content: Sounds like you'd be interested in seeed's Open Parts Library: a bunch of common SMT parts, both in a kit and an Eagle library:http://www.seeedstudio.com/wiki/Open_parts_libraryYou might find this post useful too:http://elecrom.wordpress.com/2009/10/09/eagle-library-list-of-most-commonly-used-electronics-components/That awful add dialog is overwhelming at first but you get used to it pretty quick.
EAGLE Newbie problem - pins not there? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sci4me
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 02:57:11 pm
content: Hey guys! So I am trying to learn to use Eagle. I quickly ran into this problem: there don't seem to be power pins on parts? Screenie:Running ERC whines about lack of Vcc and GND connections. I would connect them if I knew how!How do I deal with this?

author: matseng
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 03:05:57 pm
content: Click on the Invoke -button. It looks like four small AND-gates.On the popup menu select the line with power.The invoke is also used for adding the other gates in multigste devices like hex inverters and others.

author: 128er
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 03:07:47 pm
content: Ah, matseng was fasterOr right click on the symbol you added in your schematic and klick invoke. Doesn't matter how you do it.

author: sci4me
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 03:31:21 pm
content: Wait, does this mean I have to have the power pins separate from the chip?I mean, I guess it makes sense and in larger designs is probably better to have a power section... but... it's kind of annoying you don't seem to get to choose.Anyway, thanks!EDIT: Can I fix the un-readability of the VCC and GND labels?

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 03:34:51 pm
content: Rotate it by 90 degrees.

author: sci4me
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 03:39:08 pm
content: Quote from: Yansi on June 17, 2015, 03:34:51 pm180*?Thanks guys!
Eagle OM-B restoration project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: M0BSW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2013, 10:36:52 am
content: As many of you know I'm learning and keep plodding along slowly at times, until I understand what I'm doing, anyway I saw this on ebay, cost me £10.00p nice clean unit accept for the dust I didn't clean off, all the values are out , which I expected, all the capacitor are of the paper and wax type, got to be donkey's years old. So I'm going to put all new capacitors in it, and hope to have a nice Capacitance Subsitiution box, after all that what type of capactitors should I replace them with polyester?, so far you all have been excellent teachers, hope I've not asked a question to much.Paul

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2013, 10:47:20 am
content: 100pF I would suggest a silver mica 500v unit, the 1n to 47n I would suggest polypropylene 1kV units and for the 100n and 220nF units polycarbonate 630V units. Best quality units you can get, from reputable manufacturers.

author: M0BSW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2013, 11:12:50 am
content: Thank You Sean I will follow your suggestion, ordering online from RS components ,I pass them on the way to work, thanks againPaul

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2013, 11:43:53 am
content: They will be good, try to get close tolerance units as well, though they will be quite a bit more expensive.
EAGLE Solder Mask Question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Veramacor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2012, 01:10:11 pm
content: Hello everyone,I had a board design sent to board house. I used the free Eagle software to create it with.Everything checked out except the board house said there might be a problem with the solder mask layer covering thru holes.I have a 5 pin header that i took directly from the eagle library (see pics). Is this an issue or a buggy part in Eagle? I've done a board before with this house (pcbwing) and used exactly the same part with no issue before. The wall of the hole was covered in solder mask which is kind of desirable.The concern is would the hole possibly be filled with solder? Anyone else has had this problem?Thanks!Jeff

author: chrome
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2012, 01:21:16 pm
content: What value do you have for this?

author: Veramacor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2012, 01:26:14 pm
content: Chrome,My setting is the same as your screenshot Limit = 0miltx for replyEdit:* I do seem to have an stop mask file (.stc) that was also sent.

author: hlavac
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2012, 07:51:08 pm
content: I have run into this too. Many parts in Eagle have this problem. Just enable all layers before you run DRC, you will see.I personally move these outlines to documentation layer so they don't show on solder mask...

author: Veramacor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2012, 12:17:07 pm
content: Thanks for the tip! Glad it's just not me. Tx for info.
Eagle wants to Autoroute on 2 Layers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kolbep
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2014, 09:36:55 pm
content: HiI am designing a Single Sided board on Eagle for SMD Parts.In the Layers menu, I have deleted the Bottom layer, so that everything will be on the top layer.I then try autorouting, which only shows the top layer in the options. But when I run it, it makes blue and red traces, and plenty of Vias (between 11 and 20).I have even set via's cost to 99, as well as max vias for each optimisation to 1.But it still does the same.Am I right that for SMD I must be using the top copper layer,and how can I stop it from Autorouting 2 layers??In the end I might just do manual routing, because the autorouting looks ugly!

author: NegativeONE
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2014, 09:56:03 pm
content: 1. Don't use autorouter, try do it by hand.2. If you using autorouter, disable routing on bottom layer: AUTOROUTER ICON -> GENERAL -> on left BOTTOM -> set it to N/A
EagleCAD PCB design software Tutorial - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: nmmbeginer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2013, 02:38:13 pm
content: being a beginner my self i thought that i would share these EagleCAD PCB design software Tutorials so that other beginners like me can learn. hear is the link.https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLB4C63828A483E756

author: cpp2048
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 01, 2013, 03:02:08 pm
content: Its nice and informative. Thanks for posting the link

author: Josephine85
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2014, 12:12:28 pm
content: thanks for posting the link. videos are always a good way to learn. for those who want to read and print out tutorials, find some useful pdfshere.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 19, 2014, 02:47:35 am
content: Thanks for the links. One of my classmates at ITT Technical Institute back in 1997-1999, actually bought Eagle and we used it for circuit design and pcb layout. Brings back good memories.
Eakins Microscope Camera 48MP Question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: de9ed
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2021, 01:49:02 pm
content: Hello all,I have a quick question about the Eakins Microscope Camera 48MP (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001915974422.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.39a44c4dASbV8a)The microscope came without a manual so I have a question.Preface: Powering on with the DC 5V cable, the camera works normally (LED light is yellow).After finishing my work I tried to turn the camera off by holding on to the "MENU" button (LED light goes to red)The question is that I cannot turn it back on (from LED red to yellow), I have tried to hold on to the "MENU" button but it would not turn back on.Possible solutions that I have thought of: unplug and replug the DC 5V to start the camera every time? or do people just leave the camera on all the time? or was the camera just faulty and it should turn back on (holding on the "MENU" button)?Thanks for the help

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2021, 04:18:08 pm
content: Not sure if the Eakins camera operates same as similar looking Hayears but I added a simple AC switch inline with the AC plug

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2021, 04:22:53 pm
content: Noticed you aren’t using HDMI; depending on your config and uses you might want to give that a try if you haven’t already.

author: de9ed
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2021, 06:19:03 pm
content: Perfect, I have bought something like thishttps://www.amazon.ca/Poyiccot-5-5x2-1mm-Female-Connector-Inline/dp/B088D1B1KS/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=dc+inline+rocker&qid=1612203357&sr=8-8Initially, I used the HDMI but I switch to USB/Software based so I can check my drawings on the computer without switching out my hdmi cable.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2021, 01:36:13 am
content: Quote from: de9ed on February 01, 2021, 06:19:03 pmRight, that will shut off the DC to the camera. I went with the AC switch to turn off the DC power supply. Either way, the scope camera can be made to shut off and stay off.What camera did you use to make those photos? They render nice. I couldn't find the EXIF info.

author: de9ed
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 02, 2021, 05:31:27 am
content: Thanks for the lead, I just searched amazon and came across this dc inline switch version.The camera is a p30 pro

author: kevinh99
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 12, 2022, 10:18:20 am
content: Hi de9d, did you resolve the red light issue with the Eakins camera. I have the exact same issue