Bench PSU kit comments? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: arnoldus
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 13, 2010, 06:45:25 pm
content: I stumbled across this kit (30V-2A):http://tuxgraphics.org/electronics/201005/bench-power-supply-v3.shtml#3lfindex9It's quite cheap, even when counting the costs of the additional needed parts.I wanted to know 1) if you think there are better readybuilt or kit alternatives for this price2) If the method of using pulse modulation to generate the voltages is a proper way? Does it have drawbacks?

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 13, 2010, 07:30:05 pm
content: I dislike this method of control, it looks almost the same as his previous version. My main issue with this design is that the ADC of the AVR is pretty slow, max 10kS/s or so. Plus the base current will only be increased/decreased by one DAC unit (of the ~3600 units between fully on and fully off). This means that it takes about .4s to go from no base current to fully saturated. It will probably have a hard time tracking even simple 50/60Hz ripple! There is (at least in the previous version) a separate regulation that will shut it down in case of a dead short, but in any other case it's really slow. Even a crappy opamp like the ua741 will easily have thousand times the slew rate. In my opinion the right way to design a programmable power supply is to use DAC's to generate a reference voltage, but have op-amps do the actual feedback loop. Op-amps are much better at this type of work than a micro controller, this seems just doing it digitally for the sake of digital, almost as bad as using an Arduino to blink a LED. Plus I dislike having safety features like current limits implemented in software (cf. Therac-25). Something like an LM723, L200 or double LM317 will have a much better regulation.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 13, 2010, 07:39:44 pm
content: Quote from: alm on June 13, 2010, 07:30:05 pmI agree. Much better to do it with opamps. I'm working on just such a neat PSU design at the moment actually.Dave.

author: Anders
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2010, 09:41:43 am
content: When do we get to see this PSU Dave?I also agree on the OP-Amp solution even though you (if you must use a micro) could choose a PIC which has faster ADC than the AVR.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 15, 2010, 02:45:10 pm
content: Sure, and a less brain-dead control algorithm could also improve things. But that's entirely missing the point. The point is that it's stupid to implement an analog feature with dedicated IC's for a few cents available in software. It's not like there's some complex DSP taking place, it's just 'if input > threshold + hysteresis than dac_output += 1; elseif input < threshold - hysteresis than dac_output -= 1'. That's exactly what an op-amp does, and even the really crappy ones will have a gain-bandwidth product easily into the hundreds of kilohertz.

author: jimmc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2010, 06:43:55 pm
content: Interesting chip herehttp://www.linear.com/pc/productDetail.jsp?navId=H0,C1,C1003,C1040,C1055,P38503Makes for a simple PSU without the 1.2v minimum of the LM317 etc.Jim

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 18, 2010, 01:09:46 am
content: Quote from: Anders on June 15, 2010, 09:41:43 amHopefully in the not too distant future.Dave.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2010, 08:05:55 am
content: Quote from: jimmc on June 17, 2010, 06:43:55 pmSorry that's not suitable for this application. It has a maximum input voltage of only 36V, a maximum current of only 1.1A and requires a minimum load of 0.5mA to regulate properly.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 18, 2010, 11:13:10 am
content: What application? Arnoldus asked for opinions on a kit that offered 30V/2A, so 36V input voltage would be plenty, although 1A max is a bit low (but you can parallel them). The main issue for a bench supply is that there doesn't appear to be an easy way to add a programmable current limit. The 0.5mA minimum is easily satisfied by including a load resistor or a power LED.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2010, 02:27:04 pm
content: Quote from: alm on June 18, 2010, 11:13:10 amSorry, you're right, I was confused with another thread.QuoteIt won't be possible to ensure a minimum load current with just resistor and an LED because the current will fall as the output voltage is lowered and will be zero when the voltage is below the LED's forward voltage.It's possible to go down to 0V using an LM317 but another op-amp is required.http://www.silicontronics.com/index.php?action=ezportal;sa=page;p=19

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2010, 12:22:21 pm
content: You need a constant current sink to go down to 0V which unfortunately requires a negative supply.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 23, 2010, 12:53:29 pm
content: That same tricks works with any old three-terminal regulator like the LM317, see the OnSemi LM317 datasheet. So the down to 0V is just a lame marketing claim, without negative current, it will only go down to 1.2V like most linear regulators.

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2010, 02:59:33 pm
content: Seriously, this design inserts a microcontroller in the feedback loop ofthe voltage regulation? That's fine if you have a constant load, likemaybe a light bulb (after it warms up), but most real loads changeover time.Putting a micro in the control loop means it will take some numberof milliseconds to respond to a load change. That's a terrible transientresponse. And what's with the statement:"Fast means within milliseconds (as fast as an operational amplifier)."Eh? I'm not much of an analog guy, but opamps are much faster.This design implements a DAC with both PWN and an R2R ladder? Andoversamples the ADC to get more resolution? In my opinion, resortingto stuff like this means one of two things.1) You are stuck with an existing microcontroller and have to shoehorntheses functions in.2) You are a fan of a particular micro and that blinds you to the factthat you've chosen the wrong chip! Didn't Dave rant about this in anearly episode about PIC vs AVR? You should pick a chip with theappropriate ADC and DAC functions, or implement them in someother way rather than trying to hack a solution together.You can get a 12 bit serial DAC from microchip for about $1. For $3you can upgrade to 16 bits. Seems like an easy choice to me.Going back to the control loop, why not just pick an adjustablelinear regulator and couple the DAC output to the adjust pin ofthe regulator, and let the regulator deal with the transient response issues,short circuit protection, over temp protection, etc. These are allwell solved problems and pushing them into software hurtsreliability. What happens if you have a bug and the micro stopsresponding?PWM is fine for motor control but it's not such a good choice to generateprecise voltages. As the site points out, there are filtering and responseissues. Well, it's pretty easy to build 20bit or better DACs not with PWM,but with a delta-sigma modulator. The filtering problems are simpler, seehttp://jjmk.dk/MMMI/Exercises/05_Counters_Shreg/No7_PWM_vs_SigmaDelta/index.htmfor a quick overview. Of course there's no hardware support for thisin the AVR, so it would probably be too slow.Again, just pick the right chips for what you need.How about this? The April 2010 issue of Elektor describes the UniLab,a *dual* 0-30v 3amp power supply:http://www.elektor.com/magazines/2010/april/unilab.1285365.lynkx?tab=1It uses a National Semiconductor simple switcher chip (I've used those --they are very handy). No huge heat sinks to deal with, very efficient, althoughit's going to be noisier than a linear supply. And it goes down to zero volts.Of course if you pay Elektor's prices for the complete kit of parts, you could justbuy a Mastech power supply, like HY3003D for a nice linear supply with nicedisplays.http://www.mastechpowersupply.com/dc-power-supply/linear-power-supply/mastech-regulated-variable-dc-power-supply-hy3003d-30v-3a/prod_2.htmlScott

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2010, 08:52:40 pm
content: Hmm, aren't Mastech cheap and cheerful Chinese junk? I have a Mastech meter and whilst it's good for taking rough measurements, I wouldn't trust it too much. I'd rather build something I've designed so I can ensure it's good.Quote from: alm on June 23, 2010, 12:53:29 pmA part from one subtle difference, the circuit on the LM317 uses a voltage reference diode, the circuit I posted previously uses a constant current sink to ensure a minimum load for a regulator which can already do 0V. The circuit on the LM317 is inferior because of the component tolerances: if the regulator is 1.3V and the LM117 reference is 1.2V the minimum voltage will be 100mV. Using an op-amp to shift LM317's reference below 0V is a better option but it requires many extra parts.

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2010, 09:19:02 pm
content: I asked for and received the schematic for the HY3005F-3 power supply.The 5V supply is a LM723 with a 2N3055 pass transistor, pretty conventional.All the digital displays are driven by 7107s. The variable supplies are 741 opampsdriving 3 parallel 2n3055's with load sharing emitter resistors, nothing wacky orunexpected about that.So at least on a schematic basis, this power supply doesn't look too dodgy,but since I haven't seen one in person, don't know about the build quality.ScottQuote from: Hero999 on June 24, 2010, 08:52:40 pm

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2010, 11:44:03 pm
content: I purchased one, and should be able to examine the guts to describe it, in 2 weeks or so. But various older models have been dissected in other forums such as RC group. If you feel the regulator design is inadequate its design is simple and easy enough to modify.If you total the costs of buying parts to build: dual LED DVM, transformer, casing, knobs, PCBs etc., I doubt you can match price nor obtain a polished look by buying a Mastech and modifying it as you see fit.Although I cannot be dead certain, there are so many other PSU's that look, and spec-a-like the Mastech's to suggest the principle ODM provides PSU to other brand names, such as the low end Instek models, that suggests the fundamentals of Mastech's product are sound.A $90 Mastech Model GDS-3030D versus an identical Model numbered Instek for $180 with similar power supply specs, but with differences such as handle, the single LED readout and in the manual, there are addition controls in the back of the Instek absent in the Mastech.http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=849073A view of the main circuit board of one modelQuote from: slburris on June 24, 2010, 09:19:02 pm

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2010, 03:47:19 am
content: It sounds like the rcgroups folks are having problems with their power supplies because theyare backfeeding power from a battery into the power supply, reversing polarity, etc.Not my use case, I just want to power circuits for testing.At least for the analog Mastech supplies I've seen schematics for, there don'tappear to be any hard to obtain parts (well maybe the transformers, but I can'tthink of any transformer ever going bad), so I've got pretty high confidence I couldrepair them, even as analog challenged as I am :-)I like the cable dressing in the pics you attached. That shows attention todetail, not something I would expect if Mastech is at the low end of the power supplyfoodchain. Why are they perceived as junk?When you get yours, let us know what you think. Thanks.Scott

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2010, 10:43:23 am
content: Yes, but the good news is that these folks are abusing their units and it survives, and if repairs are needed, the genericness you describe of the design makes it fairly easy.I'm not sure if Mastech has a reputation for making junky stuff, as one poster here suggests, its one reason I'm posting what other folks have already done to them and a look side.The RCgroup has many threads, apparently they like Mastech for charging their batteries, and it goes back to 2004. They've established a good working relationship with the RC folks since then:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=330215http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1748079&postcount=2As for some non user error PSU failures you read there, know between 2000-7 was the era of the capacitor plague, and quite a number of devices blew power caps in their power supplies beyond Mastech, commonly PC power supplies, then, DVD players, etc., anything not powered by a wall wart was above normal expectations.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plagueWorry not about transformers, you can get them anywhere, the problem is the cost. A typical laminated core 2.8A is about $20, but a 3A is about$40. Make the same torroidal core and nearly 1.5-x3 the price. The case alone is about $15-20. Just adding those parts costs together and considering a 3A Mastech costing $50-100 assembled, building from scratch is not a cost saving idea, but modding it to improve its performance is a more cost effective.A one stop solution is Digikey.com but you'd want to shop around for better prices.Although being able to swing from zero to hero volts is a useful feature, its less so than keeping ripple down, and to have tight load and line regulation. Few designs work with less than 3V or so, and when they do, they often use batteries and have a DC-DC conversion stage to bring circuit voltages up. So to emulate a battery, you don't want ripple. NiMH drain should cutoff at 0.9V, a design intending to down to 1.0V, should, for the sake of the battery, shut down at 0.9V to prevent damage to the NiMH.Quote from: slburris on June 25, 2010, 03:47:19 am

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2010, 06:40:16 pm
content: I finally received the unit pictured below and here's initial impressions.Buying from Mastech was a good experience, but email that unit is in stock before purchasing as the website inventory count maybe inaccurate. Sean is very responsive to email; you'll get an answer < 1 hour. We've had several exchanges before payment. The website has some errs, but the picture of the device below is true.It shipped via Fedex, from CA. It took a week to arrive to me.It was a sealed box original from China. It was packed well, and interestingly the styrofoam mold was hand cut and assembled with glue to fit the unit.I haven't had time to photograph anything, but build quality and design isgoodfor any design, but excellent given the cost.The unit is about the size of a shoebox on its side.The design is like an old IBM PC case, all sheet metal held down by screws. 5/6 sides are all metal walls, the front face is plastic attached to a metal frame. The machining, fit, knobs, buttons, jacks, paint and finish are all well made, like a good Heathkit circa 1980s, very solid feel. Plastic is thick and hefty, a dull off white finish.Dials turn nicely, panel meters are evenly lit.The manual is chinglish and not helpful. None of its advertised features, and more, are mentioned. Using it is fairly straightforward, and I am putting together what it does by reading other Mastech and the GWInstek manual. For example, it does not describe what the hi/lo amps switch does, the adjustment screw beneath the volt or ammeters, whether it had short circuit protection, or how to remove the ingeniously placed fuse holder.The fan is strong, makes for noisy fan like sound. You can feel the suction from the vents cut into the sides of the unit, making for palpable airflow, exhausting from the rear. Older Mastech designs had a large heat sink in the rear which made the unit bulkier, so the fan makes the unit much more compact. The noisy isn't any more than a PC would make.The output voltage/current is fairly stable after 3 hours of testing, no drift. The meters are at least accurate to 0.3%, but I haven't completed more thorough electronic testing, and follows later. Fine adjusts about 10% of coarse, so at 30 fine is 3, at 3 fine is 0.3 etc.,Hi amps is 1.5-3 A, Lo is 0- 1.5 amps.It will work down to 0 volts.It has short circuit protection.Constant voltage and current lights work when the modes engage.Opening the case is easy. Sheet metal screws. Rubber feet screwed to bottom. The PC board is built like the photo from RC groups, clean, widely spaced, through hole parts typical of 1980s style design. Easy to fix if needed. My prelim scan confirms many easy to find generic parts. Well assembled, clean, good quality hand soldering. Wires cleaned routed and bunched. Nothing unsafe needed fixing.Main transformer is laminated core. Full wave bridge is screwed into the metal floor to heat sink it and the leads are insulated with shrink wrap tubing. Main power transistors are bolted to an aluminum heatsink the size of the entire rear, and faces the fan.In toto, very well made linear PSU. As mentioned earlier, well worth buying and modding as you see fit. You may not be able to get a replacement transformer if it blows, but its easy to fit a substitute in here. The overall look is very professional.To follow: load regulation, drift under load tests, and more on DVM accuracy.Quote from: saturation on June 24, 2010, 11:44:03 pm

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 02, 2010, 07:23:06 pm
content: Thanks for posting your impressions! Does the Hi/Lo halve the max voltage and put the windings in parallel instead of series? Otherwise I don't understand the point (except doubling the range of the current pot). Sounds a bit awkward if you're just around the 1.5A point, I would have designed some overlap if I had to do it at all (and preferably switch automatically). I dislike fans in equipment, especially fixed speed ones, so I'm not sure if I'd be happy with the trade-off, but I'm sure it reduces the cost (fans are cheaper that large heat sinks).

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2010, 08:45:44 pm
content: Hi Alm,My pleasure. I enjoy finding a good deal.Alas, no, it doubles the pots capability, which is strange. By putting the secondaries in parallel they could double the output current while halving the maximum voltage but!The fan is very generic, its an easily obtainable PC case fan, I have the exact same model I use to supplement my PCs cooling, cost me $3 for 2. There is enough room inside the case to add mods. You could add a temperature driven variable speed control, to cut noise down.The quiescent power is 15 watts, measured with a power meter.This is what the older design looked like, and heat sink does bulk up the design. Spin the flash graphic for a 360 deg view.http://www.mpja.com/email/flash/showflash.asp?itemno=14601%20PSQuote from: alm on July 02, 2010, 07:23:06 pm

author: johnnyk126
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 01, 2010, 04:38:40 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on June 18, 2010, 01:09:46 amHow is that project going? Can you give some more information when and in what form would it be available?And possibly a little bit more about the design...