Siglent SPD3303X-E Binding Post Issues - Solved - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2018, 10:12:20 pm
content: My SPD3303X-E had the binding post issue - the banana plugs would not grip firmly in the binding posts and, despite Siglent sending me new binding posts, the problem persisted - regular banana plugs would fall out of the binding posts at the slightest touch. Today I did some research and figured out what was wrong. In the diagram below, you're looking at a cutaway of the end of the binding posts; the banana plug needs to go 6.64 mm into the post before it even gets to the actual 4mm ID connection (this is a much greater distance than most binding posts) and the internal diameter of the hole (where the colored inserts are = shaded area)) is only 4.5 mm which means that many banana plugs won't fully insert because they have flared flanges that take the actual plug into the insulated support. The solution was simple, just drill out the end of the colored insert so that it's at least 5.5 mm ID, I found a stepped drill bit that was perfect to achieve this with minimal fuss.I'll follow up with pictures of the whole process

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2018, 10:18:48 pm
content: Here we go withe the pictures. In the first set, the top (black) post has been modified but the bottom (green) one hasn't, note that the plug doesn't go all the way into the bottom one.Then we see the step drill - I got this from harbour freight and tool and the step marked with a dot is 7/32 5.56 mm) and the smaller steps work as a guide - you carefully drill into the end but don't push too far.The final set show the actual PSU modified, in the before picture you can again see that the plug doesn't go all the way in, after the mod is does - it's only a difference of about 1 mm but it makes the plugs stay in well.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2018, 11:37:00 pm
content: Thanks, very interesting !When I look at the banana plugs you've been having problems with it seems from the center of the 'lantern' spring to the shoulder of the plug the distance looks quite short, in that the lantern in not engaged past it's midway point.Then of course they'd just fall out !I've looked at this issue for members here and myself when I bought the first of these models in when reportably the binding post issue had been fixed.With any of the banana leads I have I found no issues with loose plugs and have posted several times to that effect.So I've just measured some stackable leads that have retractable shrouds and the total pin length was 16.25mm and the 'lantern' spring center measures 10mm from the pin shoulder/base.That would place the center of the 'lantern' ~3.5mm past the step without modification of the binding post.This style works perfectly with these Siglent PSU's.Yours don't look that long, can you measure them please ?And for Siglents benefit (emailed) please list their manufacturer and Pt # ?

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 12:12:12 am
content: Tautech, I have about 6 different styles of banana plugs, only 1 type works with no issues in the SPD3303X-E binding posts. All the other equipment that I have with binding posts, including cheap Chinese bench PSUs do not have this issue with any of my banana plugs.The point of my post was not to get into a long list of which plugs work with the SPD3303X-E and which don't, it was to point out that there is a problem with the particular binding posts Siglent chose to fit on the SPD3303X-E - I identified why they were problematic and I described a simple way to fix it.If Siglent want to change the design then good for them. If users want to buy multiple plugs until they find ones that work, they can do that; or they can try my simple modification.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 12:48:35 am
content: Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on March 05, 2018, 12:12:12 amSure.A measurement to the center of the lantern of the 5 types you have and have trouble with will help others select what WILL work and give Siglent some info of different shoulder to lantern lengths that they maybe don't encounter in their part of the globe.I know 10mm to shoulder works, what length are the problem ones you have ?If we know that, then we can select banana plugs by measurement and not have to buy a selection rather than as you put it: 'buy multiple plugs until they find ones that work.'

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 11:12:26 am
content: I will take measurements of my banana plugs and post. I will also take measurements of the binding posts on my gear. This issue is simply one of a slack standard - no pun intended (unless someone can point me to the ISBP (International Standards for Binding Posts) document).It's clear to me that, if Siglent made the following changes to their binding posts:a. Reducing the 6.64 mm depth to 2 or 3 mmb. Increasing the 4.5 mm aperture to 5.7 mm or greaterThey would probably have far fewer complaints about loose banana plugs.

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 11:28:03 am
content: A few more observations:1. The step drill can be bought from Harbor Freighthttps://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-high-speed-steel-step-bit-set-3-pc-60379.html2. When using the step drill, DO NOT PUSH IT INTO the end of the binding post too hard, if it goes in too far, it starts to remove metal from the actual 4 mm sleeve that makes the contact3. If the binding post also has a spade connector fitted, then the 6.4 mm depth number is increased by the thickness of the spade terminal, in my case this makes it so that some banana plugs don't work at all.

author: Performa01
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 11:38:10 am
content: Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on March 04, 2018, 10:12:20 pmNow that raises the question: what is the difference between the original binding posts and the new ones sent by Siglent?

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 03:43:11 pm
content: Quote from: Performa01 on March 05, 2018, 11:38:10 amWhen I contacted Siglent America, they thought that my Ser# should have the new binding posts but sent me replacements anyway - the replacements were the same as the ones fitted.

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 05:15:45 pm
content: For what it's worth, I could find four styles of banana plugs in my drawer and I tried all of them with my SPD3033X-E and they fit fine... considering I haven't really seen complaints about it, I don't know how widespread the issue is.Maybe your banana jacks are a bit short and the extra depth from getting that back ridge in the post itself is giving them the depth they need to grip firmly? Though one of the styles I had and tested was fairly short and felt like a firm connection.Also I think the binding post issues reported with Dave's review were fixed quite quickly, as in, maybe with the first or second batch of production units, so if there is an issue with them now, I don't think it's the same one as that even if the symptoms are similar.

author: BillB
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 05:24:56 pm
content: I also have a late model SPD3033X-E and haven't run into any "inadequate" length issues, yet... With the banana plugs, I mean.

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 05:29:54 pm
content: I haven't had many complaints about inadequate length, the occasional moan but no complaints.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 07:19:30 pm
content: Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on March 05, 2018, 05:29:54 pmThen let's make this the first one !Without measurements we don't know if you're inadequate or not !From your OP we know we need 7+mm from the shoulder/base of the plug to the center if the 'lantern' spring for the plug to be retained firmly in the binding post.I've heard squat back from Siglent as yet so I guess this issue is being discussed at length and they're maybe investigating alternative binding post suppliers to address your inadequate length issues Gandalf_Sr.

author: bsudbrink
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2018, 01:25:21 am
content: I have an early SPD3303X, ordered right before Dave's video, and it has the binding post issue. I've tried it with a number of different leads, including real Pomonas and none work. I was not aware that they would provide new binding posts. I just tried to create a user account on the Siglent web site, but that doesn't seem to be working at the moment. Is there an email address for someone at Siglent that you could provide? Thanks.

author: Performa01
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2018, 01:38:30 am
content: As you're in the US, you could complete the form here:https://www.siglentamerica.com/contact-us/I've just tried it and it seems to work okay.Alternatively, there's also an email address: info@siglent.com

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2018, 10:29:24 am
content: Quote from: bsudbrink on March 06, 2018, 01:25:21 amIf you want, PM me with your address and I'll mail you the replacements that Siglent America sent me, I didn't fit them as they were the same as the ones that came with my power supply. I'll also pre-drill them out for you.

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2018, 01:43:16 pm
content: So I took some measurements (all mm) on other power supplies I own, the Korad KA3305P and the Mastech HY3003. Here's the depth (distance from front edge of binding post to start of metal tube) and aperture (ID across inside of the binding post at front).DepthApertureKorad6.136.85Mastech5.325Both have smaller depth and larger aperture numbers than the SPD3303X-E, both have no issues with any of my binding plugs (see next post)

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2018, 01:46:33 pm
content: and now for my motley collection of banana plugs, all bought on eBay or Amazon. I'll number them 1 - 8 from the left (bottom row).1. (Red) Good quality binding posts from Amazon - fit with no issues, the plastic shield screws in from the front (no holes) reccd2. (Green) Poor quality bought from eBay - these are a problem, not just in their poor fit in the binding posts of the Siglent BPs but the metal cage is loose (spins around) and this gives a poor (high resistance) connection with any binding post - not recommended3. (Red) Same as 2 but gold-plated - not recommended4. (Black) Good quality bought from eBay - OK connection on Siglent BPs but much better after BP mod - recommended5. (Yellow) Good quality piggy-back style plug - problems before Siglent BP Mod, not after - recommended6. (Brown) same as 5 above - recommended7. (Silver) These are great BPs from Amazon but the outer sheath is metal, if they were available with insulated sheaths they would be excellent - not recommended8. (Red) Straight BP - unknown origin - these work well in all BPs - don't know if they are still availableAll these banana plugs fit securely on my other power supplies but the loose cage style (2 & 3) are not recommendedThe picture also shows 4 BPs / sockets, I'll number them 1 - 4 top row from left1. These were bought on eBay and look similar to number 4 (the replacement Siglent BPs), they suffer from the same issue and can be modified in the same way.2. These BPs are ubiquitous, they come with many breadboard kits, the depth is less than 2 mm (front to metal) and they are cheap - recommended3. Obviously not a BP but included in my picture - work well - recommended4. Siglent replacement BPs sent to me by Siglent America - better after my Mod IMHO

author: Ducttape
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2018, 05:53:44 pm
content: Does anyone have a link to a specification drawing for banana plugs? I expected it to be an easy Google search but came up dry. Or is there just a verbal record that gets passed on during casual campfire talks through the years?

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2018, 11:56:19 pm
content: Apparently GE invented the banana plug, there are 2 different sizes I think but the most common is 4 mm shaft size. If you can find a definition that would be good.

author: rf-loop
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2018, 08:52:42 am
content: Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on March 06, 2018, 11:56:19 pmBanana plugs dimensios are total mess. Reason is that it is not at all standardized. There is only practice.There is history also. But then we can also ask who's history. Different area in world have different trumpth of history. As also in many science there is "The Political Science of...this and that. GE launched it. If I tell Hirschmann launched it after then whos history more right. Here rumors tell that it was Hirschmann. Who have more money his history is more right or who have biggest gun his history is most right - or then not.There is so many dimensions and not only main dimensions but also so many details dimensions. And if want more mess, after then we add tolerances to this soup. I have seen from around 1mm to around 8mm plugs in my life but highly very common is 4 and then 2mm.But also whole big mess is also coming partially from fact that different part of world have been with differeent units. We live here with metric system but some others live with foots and fingers and inches. Then some kind of more or less accurate rounding between these.Even if we take as called as "4mm" banana plug, there is lot of with different detailed dimensions. Who can show what are accepted tolerances - I do not mean opinions, I mean facts. Where is definition.Even if diameter is around 4mm +/- some but then length is huge mess. But in america, I think, more common is short and in europe is long. Most common lenghts are around 15mm (around 14 - 16mm) then other very common is around 20mm (something between 19 - 20.5mm) and then there is also sopme times these 11-12mm. (and then some amount all between 10 - 25mm).I have used these in lab mostly and these always work without any problems. There is also other models. Also Pomona do some good.Robust and simple models are:Hirschmann BSB 20 KHirschmann BUELA30K(And also with these, "looks like" copy products are (mostly) total crap shit - example these contact springs loose force or is originally wrong due to wrong manufacturing and wrong materials.One copycat example about crap but cheap)With tens of years experience in professional use I have never meet problems withgenuineHirschmann banana plugs (or high quality compatibles). But also some experience with cheap "looks like" copy shits - sometimes learning has also become expensive.If I recommend some banana plugs for example Siglent SPD3303 series it is just these genuine Hirschmann with "standard" ~20mm length.Kind of "industrial" references. More different more bad.Also Siglent.Eu show these.(but are they genuine - I doubt because price)Pity that Rosenberger, Lemo or Suhner do not make good industrial-military quality banana plugs.Then what is idea for need big aperture in binding post. 4.5mm is well enough if banana plug is well made. I can not at all understand why they do these fat neck banana plugs. For what? Oh, perhaps audiophiles think they look more cool... who in industry ands professional work in lab or industry use these. Perhaps in some rural poor area where they do not have money for buy tools. If I type banana plug to google... omg what kind of mess and shit there can see if select show images. OMG.

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2018, 10:21:45 am
content: rf-loop, thanks for your detailed input.The plugs I find most useful are the stackable ones (like the yellow plug in my earlier picture), I have them on many of my leads because I'm always finding the need to add another connection to the same point e.g. plug a voltmeter in parallel to check actual voltage coming from the supply - the plugs that have a 4 mm hole through them serve the same purpose but they are messy in that they leave exposed metal that can short to adjacent connections.Maybe I could get rich and retire early by designing the perfect stackable banana plug?

author: rf-loop
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2018, 11:01:47 am
content: Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on March 07, 2018, 10:21:45 amHirschmann BSB 20 K is stackable so that they do not leave metal parts exposed.

author: BillB
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 07, 2018, 01:19:27 pm
content: Quote from: Ducttape on March 06, 2018, 05:53:44 pmWith a not so careful google search, or perhaps campfire lore, you might end up with one of these...Seriously, I'm kinda partial to the overmolded or solder only ones that are stackable, I don't like using solderless "speaker" plugs - I have an irrational fear of touching that little exposed set screw.

author: geekGee
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 08, 2018, 04:40:21 am
content: I just received an SPD3303X yesterday from Saelig which I ordered after confirming with them that their units in stock have the newer posts.I have played with it using a couple flavours of Pomona leads and they fit snugly. I tried a set of Cal Test leads and they did not insert well at all but work fine with my Rigol DP832A.I guess the current posts are usable but fussy.

author: bsudbrink
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2018, 10:19:51 pm
content: With the generosity of Gandalf_Sr, I replaced the binding posts on my SPD3303X-E. I figured I would put up a few pictures because I know people like to look.

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2018, 11:07:26 pm
content: So, were those binding posts better than the ones you had?

author: bsudbrink
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2018, 12:51:32 am
content: Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on March 17, 2018, 11:07:26 pmYes, very much. Thanks!

author: bsudbrink
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2018, 01:00:44 am
content: Now that I have a spare set to play with, I think I will try filing 4 or so millimeters off the end of my originals and see how that works. The color goes in, not that the color really matters, and if I get a relatively clean even cut, I bet an application of acetone would shine them right up.

author: Elasia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2018, 02:08:35 am
content: Quote from: bsudbrink on March 18, 2018, 01:00:44 amI've been thinking about that myself. If you do it, some pics and results would be nice!

author: Elasia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2018, 11:30:14 pm
content: Just got these in from banggood and they work like a champ.. really nice fit. I actually got them to use as plugs for my speakers instead but they work great on this toohttps://www.banggood.com/DANIU-P3008-10Pcs-4mm-Copper-Banana-Plug-Jack-Speaker-Amplifier-Test-Probes-Connector-p-1109354.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=USAThe wire end could be a bit better but nothing some solder cant fix

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2018, 11:37:08 pm
content: Quote from: Elasia on March 24, 2018, 11:30:14 pmYep, note the pin length nearly 1/2 way down that page.....some 23mm !

author: Elasia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2018, 12:58:49 am
content: Quote from: tautech on March 24, 2018, 11:37:08 pmYeah I think i spent an hour looking on the internet for something that would match Siglent's females lol and then if they didnt.. who cares i needed em for my speakers anywayI think the side hole is a cool feature too.. check out the cheapie I stuffed into it.. its tight too... using these plugs might be a much more cost effective way to deal with their posts. But you can see from the pic, the wire space is not the greatest.. i'll need to wire clean it and glob some flux in to get it to suck itself down.. just isnt much there to work withDoes come with a cheesy tiny set screw.. no free lunch.Edit: holy shit i made this image way to big by mistake lol

author: rf-loop
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2018, 08:30:20 am
content: Quote from: Elasia on March 24, 2018, 11:30:14 pmThey looks like very poor copycat of Hirschmann Buela 30 K (what original is also rated for 30A). Specially I look these spring wires. Perhaps they are not right material and also when look shape it looks like they do not have right spring force bias (what is difficult if material is soft) But of course still works (least when they are new) lot of better than "what ever el cheapo" american style plugs (american style = short plug) what we have seen lot of in some pictures around this binding post case.This is designed more like for European type long banana plug. Banana was originally launched 1924 by Richard Hirschmann GmbH & Co and also General Radio introduced same kind of plug known as type 274 for america around same time.Gen Rad 1963 Vol 37 No. 12:QuoteAnd these Genrad plugs are really short.Suitable models here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-spd3303x-e-binding-post-issues-solved/msg1446025/#msg1446025It is really pity in electronics world that lack of standards is very common. There is not any real common standards for banana plug. There is american style and european style and all bewtween these and outside of these. If I do different I'm not wrong. All can do what ever binding posts and plugs and name it "banana plug". No real standards. Yes there are some common practices, one is dimension around 4mm (without anything about tolerances) and for double plug pitch 3/4 inch from Genrad.

author: Elasia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2018, 01:03:07 pm
content: Yeah I'll end up most likely importing some genuine Hirschmann ones for more precision work if i dont just use the post clamp itself. Newark wants to import from their UK warehouse and slap an over priced shipping fee on it and i didnt need them that bad for the primary reason I actually ordered them which was to use on my avr/speakers.These knock offs good enough for now

author: mojoe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2018, 05:10:35 am
content: Quote from: geekGee on March 08, 2018, 04:40:21 amI just installed new binding posts on my two Siglent supplies (posted about it yesterday). I also have Cal Test leads with the spring-loaded plastic shrouds. I find that the banana plugs go almost all the way in with minimal force. If more force is applied, they insert that last little bit, and the fit is very solid.You know the Engineer's rule, "If it doesn't fit, force it. If it breaks, it needed fixing anyway."

author: joeyjoejoe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2018, 09:44:24 pm
content: Is this still an issue for new units being sold? Eyeing this PSU...

author: Gandalf_Sr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2018, 12:05:09 am
content: I have the (modified binding posts) SPD3303X-E and the Rigol DP832, both have their issues - the Siglent binding posts may still be be iffy and I accept that the standards are loose but the DP832 posts have sero issues, all my leads just plug into them and stay put. The DP832 fan was noisy and I replaced it - covered in a post here somewhere - but output 3 shares its -ve pin with output 2 which is kind of irritating and something you have to watch but output 3 is fully adjustable on the DP832 but is just switched on the Siglent plus the Rigol gives full control and display of set and actual voltage and current on output 3 - output 3 on the Siglent is just switched 2.5V/3.3V/5V/3.2A with no display other than on/off. The DP832 UI is a bit odd but intuitive and does everything you need.The DP832 can be 'upgraded' via Riglol to give 1 mV / 1 mA resolution on all 3 outputs plus LAN, RS232 etc. the only thing it doesn't get is the color DP832A pie-chart display but you can choose what color the display is, I like the cyan blue.If I was forced to only keep one, I'd have to keep the Rigol DP832 because the binding posts are perfect and the UI is way better, the Siglent display is sort of sexy but it only covers outputs 1 & 2 and it's difficult to read the parameter numbers if I look at it from 45 degrees above when they are selected for adjustment when it's on the bench - I have to crouch and look at it straight on if I want to adjust a parameter while it's live.

author: joeyjoejoe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2018, 12:37:26 am
content: Interesting. Here I was thinking the 3303 was a better purchase.I did see recently that they have found an unlock to convert the 3303X-E to the 3303X. The DP832 is 100$ more in Canada.

author: skYfIrE
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2018, 10:23:11 am
content: Hello EEV communityI was interesting to purchase this power supply but after reading your feedback (and I thank you all for sharing) about binding post, I can't consider this Siglent PS as a good choice. So what I've found on market :- TTi QL355P : programmable, reliable but a bot "oldschool",- Rigol DP832A : Well equipped but a bit expansive + I don't like the graphic interface,- Rhode & Schwartz NGE 102 : Good device, maybe this one is less sexy than Siglent 3303X.Anyone knows an another PS solution for this kind of device for a similar price ? It means with 2 out, ~30V/3A, programmable, 1mV Res, USB, Lan with a LCD sceen.

author: orzel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2024, 05:27:39 pm
content: Quote from: bsudbrink on March 17, 2018, 10:19:51 pmNot sure why you opened the gear. The color part of the binding post is the only thing that need to be modified, and it's easy to pop them out.Not that you really need an excuse for a teardown, of course !

author: orzel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2024, 05:37:56 pm
content: Hi there. Just to report my experience. I have a fairly recent version of spd3303x-e, so presumably with the new kind of BP. And nope, they really still are not good, half of my plugs wont fit, or loosely fit.Thanks to the original post, i did exactly the same, and made the opening (just slightly) larger. And indeed, it's far better. I dont have the magic 'step drill' tool, so i just used an electrical screwdriver with a cross head, and i went 'gently'. The color plastic is quite easy to machine, so it was easy. I did it directly, without opening the power supply, with the BP still in place. I unscrewed them so that the plastic part is further away from the internal metallic part.Some photos will explain. The one from front show the two posts on the right 'drilled' (and not yet cleaned). The hole is larger. The other posts aren't done yet, for comparison.Then a (red, not cheap) plug is used on the green (original) post : wont got far, and is loose. The same plug used on the machined post, goes further, and is firmly attached.Thanks a lot to the original post !

author: RAY5D
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2024, 03:19:47 am
content: Hello, I have the same device and encountered the issue as well. My solution was to trim down the plastic parts pretty aggressively. The result is pretty good so I wanted to share some pictures.The basic procedure is:1. Remove the color rings, those are just pressed in, you can jam a blade in from the edges, use a hook, or screw in a properly-sized self-tapping screw and pull on the screw.2. Use a drill press to remove the majority of the excess height. One way to keep them in place is to screw the posts on a scrap piece of board, and clamp that onto the platform. I used a milling bit because it makes a flat surface.3. If your drill press and skill is good then you're all set, but my drill press is crooked and I drilled them to different depths. So I 3d printed a jig, and sanded all of them flat and to the same length.4. Put the parts on a drill (the same drill press might work too but I didn't try it), spin the drill and sand the edges to create a fillet, otherwise the edges will be hard on your fingers when using the power supply.Of course the color-coding will be lost after this modification, but there are labels on the front panel, so it should be fine.Grinding jig 3D model attached, I got it a little too tight, so make sure your printer tolerance is dialed-in, even then it might take some effort to push the connectors in and out.