Contact Cleaner and Switch lubricant - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: BMac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2013, 07:18:32 pm
content: I'm looking for response on what "contact cleaner" also "switch lubricant" that is used or preferred and why! I am in the middle of repairing a couple of tektronix scopes and some of the switch actions are dysfunctional so I need a cleaner/lubricant, something preferably that won't alter the high frequency response through the switch. Looking forward to the feedback!BMac

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2013, 07:21:22 pm
content: Caig Deoxit D100L for cleaning. Deoxit G100L for lubrication, except non wire wound pots where I use Deoxit Fader lube.

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2013, 07:45:15 pm
content: I use isopropilic alcool for this.You should search product for audio equipment use, there are a few ones made for potentiometer.

author: BMac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2013, 09:29:33 pm
content: I find if I use IPA only on switches it removes the lubrication and the switch tends to stick!BMac

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 19, 2013, 11:08:40 pm
content: I second what robrenz said.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2013, 04:48:39 pm
content: +1 for the Caig productsrobrenzmentioned.Not cheap, but it works brilliantly, and a little goes a long way when used properly.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2013, 06:58:49 pm
content: Excerpts from other posts of mine.I get the bottled liquid instead of the spray. If I need to spray it I put a drop or two in a fine solder paste dispensing needle and put it on my paste dispenser and give it a 70psi blast. With that you can get into places the spray cans cant touch.I don't have a problem with spray cans. I just like the versatility and cost effectiveness of the bottles or tubes.You never run out of propellant pressurewith my method and you can swab every last drop out of the bottle. I keep amicro brush applicatorwith each bottle for non spray application. I have more control with the hypodermic/paste dispenser method as to the amount and where it goes. a carefully located drilled source (and drain if needed) micro holes in a switch or pot can allow cleaning and lube without disassembly. You can put as much IPA or your favorite cleaning solvent into a glue dispenser syringe as you feel appropriate and inject it under pressure. Then take the piston out of the syringe and blow it out with just the air. Then blast the conditioner or lube in.This is what I did to my de-oxit bottles. I flattened the bottoms of the bottles with a harbor freight diamond block to get a roughened flat surface that super glue would adhere well to. Then super glued it to a suitable block of steel so tipping them over is way less likely and I only need one hand to open or close them.

author: BMac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 08:59:28 pm
content: Great ideas! Thanks for the tips! I ended up using Deoxit for my Tektronix 466 repair/calibrate project, seems to have worked well.BMac

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 11:05:34 pm
content: Brilliant idea, robrenz, those bottles are about $20 each and one needs only minuscule amounts to work. They also make a container with a needle tip dispenser.Quote from: robrenz on February 21, 2013, 06:58:49 pm

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2013, 11:38:41 pm
content: Quote from: saturation on February 22, 2013, 11:05:34 pmBest I've seen on this regarding cost in the US, is Amazon. Lubricant (G100L @ 7.4ml in a glass bottle w/ brush), I've only seen at MSRP.If anyone can link better pricing for the US, it would be appreciated. TIA.

author: cwalex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2013, 11:08:02 am
content: Quote from: robrenz on February 19, 2013, 07:21:22 pmI keep hearing great things about this product and since I seem to be following your advice with other equipment I'm considering buying some of this product just so I have it on hand. I don't think I have heard anyone say a bad thing about this product but I just have one question. Does this product have a best before or used by date? I'd hate to buy some and find that a year down the track it is out of date and no use.sorry for the hijack, I think my post is mostly on topic@robrenz: in a couple of months I'm going to be hitting you up with a pile of questions about metal work and milling machinery. I hope you don't mind it, you can tell me to piss off and I won't be offended<grovel>robrenz you are my hero</grovel> obviously second to dave!

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2013, 03:38:17 pm
content: Caig products shelf lifeherekeep in mind these are very conservative values. The MSDS on these says discoloration is an indicator of end of life. Many shelf life values are just numbers picked out of the air. But you are smart to not buy more than you expect to use in the nex three years.No problem on machining questions. Just keep in mind I have industrial machinery and I am no expert on the hobby level equipment as to what is the best brand etc.I am not hero worthy but thanks anyway.Edit: Caig pdf attached

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2013, 10:06:09 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on February 23, 2013, 03:38:17 pmHi rob, the link isn't working (goes to a login screen).Took a look at the datasheet on caig's site, and that doesn't list a shelf life either, and don't recall ever seeing one.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2013, 10:33:31 pm
content: Fixed, I attached the pdf to the post.

author: cwalex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2013, 11:44:58 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on February 23, 2013, 03:38:17 pmCheers mate, I think I can live with a 3yr shelf life. My questions will probably be more about milling/cutting bits and machining not necessarily machinery.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2013, 06:05:00 am
content: Quote from: robrenz on February 23, 2013, 10:33:31 pmThanks.Copy saved.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2013, 10:10:30 am
content: Quote from: robrenz on February 19, 2013, 07:21:22 pmRobrenz, at where I live, the only Caig product available is only D5 spray can type, no other else.Now questions, is this also good enough for cleaning + "lubricate & protection" for delicate electronic switch and contact ?. Also at Caig web, there are also dilluted version vs 100% version like yours, mind educate us a bit on this as well ?

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2013, 10:26:53 am
content: Very useful information, thank you!I'd never heard of Deoxit type products, till I read one of the scope restoration threads. Definitely something I've needed for years.Though, it still hadn't made it onto my 'to find & buy' list. I keep forgetting. NOW it will!

author: cwalex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2013, 10:33:02 am
content: Quote from: TerraHertz on February 24, 2013, 10:26:53 amYeah, good priced local aussie suppliers would be nice. I'm being lazy now...

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2013, 10:58:13 am
content: Why not just assume there aren't any, and buy online?Very likely to save a lot of pointless trouble. Not to mention outrageous markups.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2013, 01:57:37 pm
content: In the EU, the original formulation Cramolin can still be purchased. There is a soap opera story between Deoxit and Cramolin that you can find in the eevblog archives.http://www.siber-sonic.com/electronics/caig.htmlhttp://uk.farnell.com/cramolin/contaclean-400ml/cleaner-contaclean-400ml/dp/840038

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2013, 09:12:24 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on February 24, 2013, 10:10:30 amCaig technical page hereall I know comes from this section and looking thru all of the rest of the site.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2013, 03:37:06 am
content: Thanks !

author: BMac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2013, 08:24:53 pm
content: FYI, I found Deoxit and Deoxit Gold at my local "Guitar Center", in the US, $14.95 5oz spray can. Pretty good deal for Deoxit and "Guitar Center is open Sundays too. (It is repackaged by "HOSEA").BMac

author: tjw
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2013, 10:50:32 pm
content: Hi,For Australian members there is an alternative to expensive import products. CRC Industries in Castle Hill, NSW have been manufacturing cleaning and lubrication products for the Electronics Industry for many years. I remember having a can of CRC 2-26 at least 20 years ago. They make no residue contact cleaners and combination switch cleaner / lubricants that I have used with success for years. MDS and TDS data is available on their website.WES components in Ashfield and Prime Electronics is Homebush sell CRC products - even Dick Smith used to sell it before they became a toy shop.I am surprised they have not been mentioned in this thread - maybe Dave could go there and make a short video.Regards.

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2013, 11:22:58 pm
content: My contact cleaner of choice is Servisol Super 10, been using it for years and its good stuff. It does come in a spray though so if your afterbeing able to use very fine amounts something else maybe more suitable.. Or just use a cloth with it like I do

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 06:08:53 am
content: And what about wd40? It's pretty famous

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 08:02:56 am
content: WD40 is NOT a lubricant. "Water Displacement" formula #40 was designed originally to be just that, a way to displace water from surfaces. It turns out is has mild lubricating and cleaning properties but it also turns out to attract and hold dirt and will slowly corrode some metals. It is death to pots. Do not use it unless it is an emergency.

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 11:26:18 am
content: Ok thaks.

author: ftransform
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 11:51:32 am
content: Lol, wikipedia says that wd40 is a product of the cold war, it was first used to keep atlas nuclear missile fuel tanks rust free !

author: babysitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 12:29:18 pm
content: In germany/the EU, try Teslanol Oszillin of you cannot get Craig stuff. Its quite good.

author: BMac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 01:07:59 pm
content: OK is it time for Dave to do a contact cleaner/lubricant shoot out???Dave what say yea!BMac

author: BMac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 01:28:19 pm
content: Just remembered, in a past life, (job just out of College, Reliance Electric Co.), we used to call this stuff "Technician in a Can".We used it everywhere, I can't remember what brand it was though.Ok, just had to pass on my morning chuckle, ha !BMac

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 04:13:40 pm
content: We had aq contact cleaner for avionics that was basically R11 in a can ( pity about that, it was magic for contact problems) that we had a name for that will get me banned here. The other was a lubricant called Turco, which was a great screw lubricant, and which was good to free rusted screws on panels. Unofficial use was as insect killer, as it burnt with a very impressive flame, and this was very useful with the paper wasps that plagued us, making them change rapidly from a wasp to a walk, then a crisp. Not fun opening a panel and having a dozen big rather upset wasps come out en masse, this was perfect, I carried a lighter always, even though I did not smoke. Duck, grab both and then fire in the hole.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 08:44:53 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on March 01, 2013, 04:13:40 pmThere, you said it

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2013, 07:11:27 am
content: Screw, as in rolled up inclined plane allowing leverage to hold parts together with friction providing retention.

author: Ed.Kloonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2013, 10:38:38 am
content: Quote from: PA0PBZ on March 01, 2013, 08:44:53 pm

author: amspire
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2013, 10:37:42 pm
content: Inspired by this thread, I got a Caig DeoxIT kit and cleaned the timebase and vertical digital potentiometers in my hacked Rigol Ds1052e. So far the switches are now working perfectly again. Interesting to see how long they will last.

author: BMac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2013, 01:13:44 pm
content: Good for you!, that's what I should have done!, I think during the life of this thread I bought every product mentioned, but ended up using Deoxit. I guess I never learn, always looking for a cheaper solution, but end up with the good stuff in the end, buying/trying all the "cheap" solutions along the way, just to end up with the "good" product in the end.Note to future self, "Just bite the bullet and go for the good stuff from the get go".BMac

author: UPI
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2013, 02:03:07 pm
content: Does anyone have experience using Caig products on PC memory sticks or card slots? I am considering using it on RAM slots in a laptop and was wondering if this is a good or bad idea.Caig says it is fine but I am looking for real world experience.http://store.caig.com/s.nl/ctype.KB/it.I/id.1744/KB.215/.f

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2013, 02:12:30 pm
content: I put deoxit gold G100L on every gold contact on everthing I own. meter jacks, usb sticks, usb cables, connectors, bnc's, etc., etc.. No negatives in 2 years, just very smooth connections

author: babysitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2013, 05:23:00 pm
content: You are talking about gold. Gold is known to be chemically lazy. Just keep everything as clean as possible as the gold plating might suffer scratches from dust which is "glued" on by those products, besides the effect of dust particles stuck between your gold surfaces preventing contact at all.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2013, 08:24:14 pm
content: I only consider gold as a lubricant/gold sealer after the contacts have been cleaned with D100L. I also thouroghly remove all the D100L before applying the G100L. I wipe/air blast all excess G100L off after a few insertions.

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2013, 08:25:18 am
content: Quote from: Lightages on March 01, 2013, 08:02:56 amI once used WD40 on an outside padlock in my summerhouse in Sweden.Worked fine at first , but guess what happened when i had to open the shed in -22 C.I ended up having to cut the padlock.So no more WD40 for any lubricating in cold environments , for me./Bingo

author: PhilNY
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2013, 09:45:36 pm
content: I worked in a calibration lab for years in the 80's and we loved deoxit except on scope contacts in certain tek scopes that had cam pressed fingers and anything to do with higher frequencies. Tek scopes call for IPA cleaning due to sensitivity to some of the harsh chemicals out there at the time, but I have had the best luck over the years on 2213, 2215, & 2235's with only alcohol and our students really put these to the test. On decade boxes and other switches I love Cramoline or DeOxit, but have been cautious to use it on anything that might fail a bandwidth test after treating as opposed to just cleaning the switches. Granted this is a rare thing, but I have had past troubles with some older stuff such as the HP 400EL's, Older HP and Tec scopes and such. So long as you put it on a scope pack and give it a full check or send it out after you treated it you are Ok, but I only use it in low frequency applications. I mean no offense by this, it has just been my experience.Phil

author: UPI
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2013, 11:13:02 pm
content: My concern with the use of Caig on the DDR3 memory stick application was pin to pin leakage at higher frequencies. Since it wasn't broke (brand new laptop), I decided not to fix it.I will try on a cheaper/older PC one of these days.

author: notsob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2013, 10:40:47 am
content: Answer me this, there has been some discussion re shelf life of some products (ie caig), the documentation mentions separation and discolouration of the product.So what is the 'real' expected in situ life we are expecting given that the lubricant is going onto contacts that may not be looked at or relubed for quite some years.Interested for your wisened comments.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2013, 12:06:03 pm
content: Take a look at these pdf's of testing to simulate ten years life. Make sure you read the test conditions for each one.Edit: all this tech info is availableHere. The left column listing has all the different tech pdfs.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 24, 2013, 06:08:39 pm
content: Interestingly, IET recommends WD40 for cleaning and lubricating its switches in the recent ebay find Dave reviewed. This flies in the face of AMP declaring WD40 as a corrosive and damaging to contacts in the connectors.

author: notsob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2013, 01:13:29 am
content: thanks robrenz, btw I still want your workshop for xmas