hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Arduino Mega PS2, don't work after power on off   - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2018, 10:44:08 am
content: 1. I am using arduino mega 2560. A PS2 keyboard is connected to read keys & display on segment. Library used is PS2Keyboard.cpp - PS2Keyboard library Written by Christian Weichel <info@32leaves.net>2. Issue faced is, when power in turned off & applied again on entire system(MCU+PS2 converter+usb keyboard), keyboard don't get initialized again automatically, that is I am not able to read any keys unless I remove the keyboard from socket & connect again, then I can read again.3. There is small USb to PS2 converter used. Keyboard is usb.4. what could be issue.5. below is keyboard code:const int DataPin = 19;const int IRQpin = 18;PS2Keyboard keyboard;keyboard.begin(DataPin, IRQpin);keyboard.clear();c = keyboard.read();Serial.println(c);

author: brybot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2018, 06:40:43 pm
content: Are you able to get a scope trace on your data lines?There is a #define option for INPUT_PULLUP, and the documentation mentions that PS2 keybaords contain pullup resistors. I wonder what your adapter is doing, and whether the pullups or lackthereof could be messing up the initialization. Especially if the pullup is latching up the processor through the GPIO.https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_PS2Keyboard.html

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2018, 05:24:28 am
content: Hi,rest of code works fine no issues in that.Only ps2 keboard dont work.I have tried both methods, pull up enable or diable in code, but both didnt worked.Also why keyboard worked when i remove it & connect it again from usb porint., while converter remians connected, i dont understand this
Arduino mega PWM frequency - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tzc
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 08, 2018, 10:41:55 am
content: Hi ,I got some question about Arduino MegaWhat is the max frequency PWM in Arduino Mega?What is the PWM resolution for Arduino Mega?and the number of PWM output that available in the Arduino Mega ?

author: Sudo_apt-get_install_yum
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2018, 11:35:32 am
content: All of this info is in the datasheet ATmega2560,http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/Atmel-2549-8-bit-AVR-Microcontroller-ATmega640-1280-1281-2560-2561_datasheet.pdfIt has 12 16-bit PWM channels (2.2 in datasheet)

author: mjkuwp
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 08, 2018, 11:56:34 am
content: Answers can be found here:https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-mega-2560-rev3https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=72092.0I am just assuming that since you placed the question in the Beginners forum that you are relatively new to this. The information will be very difficult to find in the datasheet of the micro and would not be applicable when using the Arduino libraries.
Arduino mega with FTDI chip - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: gus789
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2016, 11:08:21 pm
content: Hi folks, this is my first time attempting to use Eagle. I am looking to make a prototyping board that is compatible with the arduino mega (ATMEGA 2560) but that uses a FT232RL chip for uploading sketches and for serial comm instead of the traditional ATmega16U2. The board will ultimately have several peripherals (GLCD, SD card, etc), but the first step is to get the serial communication right. The attached pic is what I have so far for the schematic, which I adapted from the arduino duemilinove. Are there any obvious mistakes? Also, Eagle complains if the OSC0 and OSC1 pins are left floating, so I used pull down resistors on them. Thanks!

author: AlxDroidDev
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2016, 12:48:53 am
content: You don't need both DTR and RTS connected to the 2560's RESET pin. You can choose either one, since both are compatible with Avrdude, but usually DTR is the preferred choice, for historic reasons.

author: Aodhan145
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2016, 12:54:41 am
content: leave the oscillator pins floating.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 05:33:19 am
content: The cirtuit looks much more complicated than this one (FTDI BASIC). Is there a reason?https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/DevTools/Arduino/FTDI%20Basic-v21-5V.pdfI think all you need to add to the FTDI BASIC schematic is a 0.1uf capacitor from the DTR to the MCU's reset pin.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 11:53:18 am
content: Why? Do you know aboutFTDI's questionable practicesand the fact that there are cheaper alternatives available if you want a USB-UART?

author: PeterFW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 07:33:50 pm
content: Quote from: gus789 on January 25, 2016, 11:08:21 pmFirst, i would suggest to ditch the FT232RL and replace it with this:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/cypress-cy7c65213-a-pin-compatible-ft232r-replacement/And since i got the same thing sitting on my bench, i would say, the reset circuit will not work.But... for the life of me i can not remember why. I had problems with that in this combination.I think i had to put in a diode and a way smaller cap but... there was a thread on the arduino forums but i can not find it again.
Arduino Mini Pro not in sync - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fusionimage
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2015, 09:31:07 am
content: Hello!When I try to program my Arduino Mini Pro 3v3, I always get the following error:Code:avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00I know that this happens, because the Arduino is not auto-resetting. I connected the USB to serial adapter this way:I also tried connecting the Arduino RST to DTR on the adapter, since I have seen this on some websites, but without success.Both, the Arduino and the FTDI adapter, are confirmed working, since I can program the Arduino with an USBasp using ICSP and I can read/write via serial interface to the Arduino.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2015, 10:03:11 am
content: Are you sure there is a bootloader on the arduino?Looks like the ftdi jumper is set to 3.3V, does that arduino run from 3.3V?

author: fusionimage
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2015, 10:16:48 am
content: Yes, it is a 3.3V Arduino and yes, a bootloader is burnt.As I said, programming via ICSP instead of serial is working.

author: PeterFW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2015, 10:42:16 am
content: In order of desending most possible cause:Wrong com port selectedWrong target/board selectedWrong clock selectedFuses not programmed correctlyNo bootloader presentWrong bootloader presentFaulty DTR/Reset pin connection (check with scope)"Auto reset" is not nessacary, you can use the on board reset switch to program the arduino, you just have to push it at the right moment, google will tell you when that is.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2015, 11:04:55 am
content: Quote from: fusionimage on May 15, 2015, 10:16:48 amyeah, i just wondered if you had wiped out the bootloader when programming via ICSP and hadn't realized.

author: mushroom
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2015, 05:03:49 pm
content: Should'nt FTDI's CTS be pulled to GND when flow control is not needed ?

author: kolonelkadat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2015, 05:33:04 pm
content: When I get this error, it is always due to clock frequency. make sure youve set your software up for 3v3 operation. (clock <= 8 MHz)

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2015, 12:24:31 am
content: Another possibility, board type and CPU type setting in your Arduino IDE.Typically I get this error when I forgot to switch the setting in the IDE from UNO to NANO, or the correct CPU.
Arduino Nano 33 iot vs audio - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Lucky-Luka
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 12, 2022, 01:42:31 pm
content: Hi allDo you think I can profitably amplify the 3.3V 10bit DAC pin signal using this AB amplifier?https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B07KPSPLKF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3SCFTIO8CSK1X&psc=1Thanks

author: MK14
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2022, 01:45:06 pm
content: What EXACTLY are you trying to do. What is the project ?What is the project trying to achieve ?

author: Lucky-Luka
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 12, 2022, 02:55:45 pm
content: Play songs stored in a micro SD card read by Arduino

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2022, 05:09:32 pm
content: Why wouldn't it work? You will only have 10 bit signal/noise (60 dB) and a mono signal, of course. Have you tried with some available audio amplifier whether the sound quality from the Ardiono's DAC meets your needs?
Arduino Nano circuit board (minimal) flaw, but why?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ALonda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2017, 01:01:55 am
content: As I looked over the circuit board layout for the arduino nano, I noticed... this;All the pins are laid out in ascending-towards-usb-plug order, except RX and TX. For some reason they have been swapped. But swapping them made it necessary to add another via. What could possibly be the reason for this? Is it a copyright trap? Autorouter? I dont understand it, I see no sense in it./A

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2017, 01:51:24 am
content: It's open-source hardware. Anyone can make/modify/sell the design. The restrictions are duplicating trademarked labels that the "official" boards carry.If I had to guess, the Nano, Micro, and Pro Mini inherited that pin order from the pin choice made on the Mini.Why did the Mini make that choice? I don't really know, but my guess is it made layout to the serial header (which duplicated TX/RX pins) easier.

author: amspire
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2017, 02:57:41 am
content: I have a Chinese Nano clone, and it has no vias anywhere near the Tx and Rx. I have Arduino Mini clones too and they have the same pin order, so it seems it is a design choice made for a range of Arduino boards to have tx and Rx in this order.
Arduino Nano V3 and LCD 128x64 how to connect them - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kbm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 22, 2024, 08:41:47 pm
content: I bought Arduino Nano V3 with Atmega processor and LCX 128x64. I need to connect LCX to Nano like on this schematic:https://www.hackster.io/mircemk/simple-arduino-hulda-clark-zapper-with-timer-function-913ac2On Arduino Nano Microcontroller there are outputs allowing to connect cables without soldering but LCD has no such output. To connect the cables to LCX they have to be soldering.First question is there perhaps a way to connect the cables to LCX without soldering? LCX has only holes where you can insert the cable but the cable will fall out without soldering.Second question, if there is no way to connect the cables to LCX without soldering, what solder do I need to buy?

author: aliarifat794
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2024, 10:11:34 pm
content: You have to solder a 20-pin male header with the LCD display. An ordinary 40W soldering iron and solder lead will work. Then you can connect the LCD with the Arduino Nano using a breadboard and male to male breadboard jumper wires. If you want to give your project a smarter look, you can choose 128x128 RGB TFT display:https://www.theengineeringprojects.com/2024/02/color-lcd-screens-as-a-versatile-solution-for-a-number-of-applications.html

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2024, 10:24:50 pm
content: A bodge ive used is long pin male headers through the holes plugged into a female header on the other side of the board ,the plastic strip on the pins can be slid up and down to get things clamped tightly.then use male-female wires to connect the arduino to the display

author: brucehoult
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2024, 02:48:17 am
content: Quote from: kbm on April 22, 2024, 08:41:47 pmSoldering isn't hard. Any solder for general electronics work with rosin core (NOT electricians soldering huge busbars etc) around 0.5mm to 1.0mm diameter will be fine. You'll only use a few cm of it for this, but of course it's handy to have some left over for later. One of the little plastic tubes with 15g or so of solder in a spiral inside will last a good while.You can get a cheap simple electronics soldering iron for not much money almost anywhere, but the Pinecil is REALLY good, for not much money ($26 here):https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/Or on Amazon for a little bit more (but likely free shipping):https://www.amazon.com/PINECIL-Smart-Mini-Portable-Soldering/dp/B096X6SG13It's got a RISC-V processor inside and you can reprogram it if you want. But you don't have to :-)

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2024, 12:43:43 pm
content: Quoteindeed its not,however adding headers to a nano aint really an ideal starting point,might want to get a bit of 0.1" stripboard and some extra headers and get your technique dialed in first.

author: kbm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 23, 2024, 06:06:30 pm
content: Yes, I will buy soldering.
Arduino or 74hc ic  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Edwin the inductor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 07:41:20 pm
content: I vorking on a ROV and nouv had I come to the porgraming and it's just not wourk I progreming in Arduino. myquestion is should I bild a compjuter on digital ic like and gate with a 5 bit buz insted of the arduino carde?excuse the spelling:)

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 10:52:10 pm
content: I tried, but I can't understand what you wrote, Sorry

author: chriva
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2020, 11:57:03 pm
content: Send a PM to me (skicka ett pm på svenska så kan jag försöka översätta)
Arduino Overshoot - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: paudav
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2012, 05:53:06 am
content: My DS1102E arrived today, and I've been playing around with it. I compensated my probes, and the test signal from the scope looks good. Nice and square.So then I hooked up my Arduino, and started flashing an LED, and I noticed that the faster I flashed the LED, the more often I would see some overshoot on the rising edge of logic HIGH. About 2V worth. I see a similar (but inverted, obviously) undershoot during the transition to logic LOW, also.When I slow the LED back down, the overshoot/undershoot disappears.I realize that my timebase setting here is pretty fast (see the picture), but I was just wondering if anybody happened to know if this is normal behavior with micro controllers (or Arduinos)? Or is this an erroneous measurement introduced by the scope probes?Thanks for reading!-PBD

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2012, 06:00:47 am
content: if you are using the long gnd clip, its due to the gnd cable loop inductance.
Arduino Shield for LT Demo Boards QuikEval Linduino DC2026 USB DC590B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: quantumvolt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2016, 01:57:13 am
content: This project is abandoned after I saw that LT has changed the Linduino board schematic since I made my clone a few years back.The bus sharing/multiplexing of SPI and I2C has been changed from the documents dc2026afa.pdf / DC2026AFB.pdf (which I used to build my emulator board) to the current Linduino User Manual DC2026CFD.PDF which you will find here:DC2026C - Linduino One Isolated USB Demo Board: An Arduino- and QuikEval-Compatible Code Development Platformhttp://www.linear.com/solutions/linduinoI will not make a tutorial on a board that has been substantially modified by LT.My advice to those that want to use QuikEval is: Clone the new Linduino board bus data transfer hardware yourself (schematic in the DC2026CFD.PDF) or buy a real Linduino.
Arduino solid state relay - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: House91320
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2010, 03:50:28 am
content: I am trying to get this ssr to work with my arduino but it just is not happening anyone got an idea whyhttp://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/pn/en/1393030-4

author: Time
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2010, 04:27:17 am
content: You need to provide more information about how you are trying to do it. Schematic, etc.

author: thakidd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2010, 05:00:56 am
content: Hey House...Been working with the Arduino for a while now. I took a look at the link you provided. It appears you are trying to use the SSR-240A25 model of this SSR. I took a look at thespec sheetand noticed that the specific model you are looking at requires an input voltage of 90-280VAC. This is what the 'A' stands for in the part number.Check out the spec sheet I linked above..you will notice on the second page of the PDF that you want the D version of the SSR which provides an input voltage of 3-32 VDC. I am guessing that would be the SSR-240D25. Make sure you spend 5-10 minutes checking out that spec sheet as that will make or break your project.With an input voltage of 3-32VDC, you should be able to plug this guy in to whichever pin and ground on the arduino and get results. Hope that helps.

author: House91320
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2010, 05:04:30 am
content: FAIL on my part.thank you

author: thakidd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2010, 05:16:09 am
content: No worries...I have made that mistake more times than I have fingers and toes. Keep it around though..when you least expect it, that part will come in handy!

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2010, 12:32:32 pm
content: Quote from: House91320 on October 02, 2010, 05:04:30 amactually you have succeded... to admit your mistake, not all people can do that
Arduino three phase controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2014, 12:48:16 am
content: Is there any way to program an Arduino to work as a standalone three phase motor controller? any ideas will be helpful or even pics or diagrams will also help.Thanks.

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2014, 01:03:24 am
content: I'm sure that you know exactly what you mean by "3 phase motor" and "controller".But we can't guess what you are asking about at this distance.Please be much more explicit about exactly what kind of motor you are talking about.If you have some specific motor in mind, then please link us to the specifications.

author: Prime73
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2014, 03:02:22 am
content: google is a very, very handy tool ...take a look at this project:http://www.stickytechnology.com

author: FreddyVictor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2014, 08:36:12 am
content: there's currently a fad in r/c circles for Brushless (motor) Gimbal Controllers (keep camera level when flying).here's a board(actually an Arduino) with drivers on boardnot sure if this suits your intended application
Arduino to DMX with MAX485 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2015, 05:30:14 pm
content: Hey everyone. am trying to get my Arduino UNO to use the MAX485 as a DMX controller. but cannot find the code or ways for it to work. can someone help or direct me to where the code or compiled things for it? thank you.

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2015, 05:33:49 pm
content: Also am using a program called Martin LightJockey to use for the devices (Chauvet lights and such)

author: MLXXXp
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2015, 06:58:33 pm
content: http://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/DMX

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2015, 10:33:07 pm
content: i already tried that... but it got me confused on how to hookup the pins to it.
Arduino to MAX485 (DMX controller) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2015, 08:21:08 pm
content: i could not find my previous post.... so i had to make a new one. anyways.... am trying to set up a DMX controller with my Arduino board i have here. am having an error code in the compiler.... not sure what it means. could you all help me?here is what it says.Arduino: 1.6.0 (Windows, Board: "Arduino Uno"C:\Users\Drawing\AppData\Local\Temp\build3127169777972709416.tmp/core.a(HardwareSerial0.cpp.o): In function `Print':C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/HardwareSerial0.cpp:48: multiple definition of `__vector_18'receiver_rev15.cpp.o:/Arduino/receiver_rev15.pde:156: first defined herecollect2: error: ld returned 1 exit statusError compiling.This report would have more information with"Show verbose output during compilation"enabled in File > Preferences.

author: kxenos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2015, 09:19:46 pm
content: Well, can you show us the print statement in line 156?Also, I think dmx equipment works in 256kbps. Is arduino capable of such baudrate?edit: so -> show

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2015, 09:30:30 pm
content: Quote from: kxenos on May 03, 2015, 09:19:46 pmDMX is 250kbaud - easy enough on an AVR

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2015, 11:42:28 pm
content: I really do not know of how to do Arduino stuff honestly. Am still learning of it without any coding. So this is why I am asking for help.

author: kingofkya
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2015, 12:05:44 am
content: I seam to recall an issue with arduneo and running at high baud rates like dmx i think you have to screw with the interrupt handler to get to working. Your better off starting with a stock avr setup.Assuming a atmea328 based ardueno.also try not doing serial prints and see if it compiles.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2015, 12:32:32 am
content: Quote from: kingofkya on May 04, 2015, 12:05:44 am250kbaud is only 40uS per byte, 640 clocks, so plenty of time to handle it. Handling the Break condition is something that a standard serial handler will probably not deal with properly but it's pretty straightforward - for receive, framing error = break, for transmit, use a timer to generate the break time. I don't recall offhand if the AVR UART can generate a break, if not you just disable the UART tx function and control the pin directly during the break time.

author: kingofkya
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2015, 09:33:27 pm
content: Ah yeah that sounds about right, i haven;t played with normal dmx stream in a while so i was a bit fuzzy:)
arduino trinket bootloader problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: zerorisers
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2015, 10:47:58 pm
content: Hello, zerorisers here, and I cant seem to figure out how to make this arduino trinket enter bootloader. i press the reset button, red light is solid for a second or so, and turns of. no blinking red light at all. green light is on so I know its functional in that respect. I am running CentOS linux on the machine i use to program. If anybody has any insight to what is wrong please tell me As this is a project for drift America rc and I am really frustrated.
Smooth measurement value - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 97hilfel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2016, 06:02:46 pm
content: Hello everybody,I try to measure the speed of a 4-Pin PWM fan with a arduino, so far my values are correct and have a precision from about .3-.5Hz compared with my Tektronix TDS2014 (probably no the dugs guts). Now the problem: my values are kind a jumpy and I already tried a few things but I always cant finish the taught and end up with a "meh"-solution which does not what she should do. Does somebody of you have a little idea in his box how I can smooth the calue? I get an update of the last value about every 100ms-500ms a little depending on my settings of the system.Have a nice evening FelixEDIT: Complete rewriting

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2016, 08:03:22 pm
content: At slow timebase settings your Tek is probably in "Roll" mode, hence the periodic screen updates.If you want to have a stationary waveform you're probably better to set up for a "Single shot" event and/or use a Trigger setting for say a pulse period. Hunt through the Trigger menu to see what options you have.

author: Circlotron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2016, 09:27:37 pm
content: Quote from: 97hilfel on December 26, 2016, 06:02:46 pmYou mean "the duck's guts".This is a technical forum.We are engineers.Our statements must be correct.
Arduino won't upload sketch (FIXED) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cowboy303
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2012, 10:07:06 pm
content: I received my arduino uno rev3 yesterday but it won't upload the example sketch "Blink"It just gives me this error message on the bottum of the screen:Binary sketch size: 1026 bytes (of a 32256 byte maximum)avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x30I went in "Device Manager" then went under "Port (COM & LPT) and all I found was "ECP Printer Port (LPT1)"The LED on the board blinks at .996 Hz(on 1/2 sec off 1/2 sec)But the TX and RX LEDs don't blink at all.Thanks

author: amspire
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2012, 10:49:22 pm
content: First make sure you have updated the Arduino drivers:http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Windows#toc4If the drivers are up to date, then when you plug the Uno in, you will see a port "Arduino UNO R3 (COM19)" in Ports (COM & LPT) in Windows Device Manager.If it is not up to date, you may see "Unknown Device" under Other Devices in Device Manager.Check that Arduino IDE is connected to the correct port.Richard.

author: cowboy303
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2012, 03:20:54 am
content: Thanks.the first time I plugged the Arduino in. A new hardware thing popped up and I closed it out. Big problem I had to restore my laptop back to to yesterday to get it to pop up again.Your link was very helpfull thank you.
Arduinos, servos and current - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: brooko
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2023, 06:47:31 pm
content: Hello,I have a project to create a dipping headlight system for a bike using a servo.I'd like to power this from the output from my bike's computer which is USBC, 5V3A.I know the servo will need more power then is available from the Arduino 5v port (Nano ATMega 3285p OLED), so I'm hoping to split the incoming USBC power feed to the Arduino and servo separately.So my question is whether the servo and Arduino will get enough current to function, the servo is a 'diymore MG996R Servo,Metal Gear High Speed Torque 13kg Digital Servo' link below.I have tested the code and circuit with a 6v AA battery feed separately to the servo and it works fine, can I replace the AA batteries with the split USBC feed?Thanks in advance, Andyhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09V5B6SB6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2023, 06:17:47 am
content: Servo is said to stall around 2.5A when voltage is 6V.Your USB must be able to handle more than that.How much more is probably changing so much that you must test it.Just jam the servo and measure how much it takes.If main gear is small you should expect some stubbornness from it.

author: MarkT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2023, 03:20:08 pm
content: Quote from: m k on December 21, 2023, 06:17:47 amAnd if you reverse the servo rapidly it might pull twice the stall current.... Power motors and servos from a separate supply to any digital logic and you'll avoid the issue (you might still brown-out the motor supply, but at least the microcontroller or whatever won't reboot).Some servos are powerful enough to mechanically damage themselves if deliberately stalled, many will overheat and cook themselves if stalled for more than a second or two... Variable current limited lab power supplies are invaluable for commissioning stuff like this, as you can avoid damaging stuff while experimenting.
Ardupilot + 3G/4G - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: syonastarlight
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2012, 10:21:34 pm
content: I have been reading on some of the capabilities of the Ardupilot platform, and am really interested in it. I had an idea though, what would you people think the feasibility is of instead of using standard RC radio equipment to control it, using one of those 3G breakout boards, and maybe streaming live video over 3G. You'd be able to sit in the comfort of your home on your laptop and roam your entire local city/town over the 3G cellular network (that's assuming you acquire/write software for your PC to control it).*edit* I just realized, due to the flakiness of cellular data networks, it may not be fast enough for realtime control, but you'd at least might be able to command it to go to certain GPS coordinates and altitudes (easier if it was a helicopter rather than a plane)

author: McMonster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2012, 10:47:05 pm
content: There's aninteresting blog post on Adafruitin this topic, particularly the last sentence.

author: syonastarlight
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 02, 2012, 10:52:20 pm
content: Ah, disappointing. Killed my idea rather quickly, lol. Well I suppose you don't want a somewhat smart helicopter to lose control and rampage through townI guess you'd have to join the military to play with a real UAV.
Are "micro" soldering pencils useful? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2012, 04:41:54 am
content: I don't hear or see too many people using them I guess. I've never tried one. I currently have a wesd51 - but am doing more SMD stuff these days. I like the though of a something that was mush shorter then the standard length iron. Something that you can hold closer to the tip for more control.Are "micro" soldering pencils useful?The Weller WD1M/WD2M is out of my budget for now - but I was hoping that there might be a Micro pencil out there that would with some of the open source soldering iron driver kits (namely:http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Patrick:_Soldering_iron_driver_v1_development#Resources)The idea would be to buy the wand only, and drive it with this bit of kit.(the WD1M/WD2M doesn't work with the driver kit shown above - the WD1M/WD2M pencil doesn't have a temp sensor built in - and that required for the kit - but maybe another micro pencil will)Thoughts?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2012, 04:58:28 am
content: I think on my JBC the tips heating element is also the thermocouple for temp sensing. The 245 pencil is very nice and the tips are close to the handle. I think you will be hard pressed to get more perfomance out of tips than JBC does.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2012, 12:16:12 pm
content: Quote from: george graves on March 06, 2012, 04:41:54 amHuh? Which pencil/irons are you looking at?I ask, as some have sensors in the iron (element + sensor are part of the handle, and something has to slide over it to hold the tip), while the cartridge models have sensors in the cartridge itself. Also, the WD1M and WD2M are discontinued with the release of the newer WX units.BTW, I have a WD1001 (came with the WMP pencil), and it does have a thermocouple in the heating element. The tips on this one are a tube that screws in the base of the handle, covering the element/sensor assy.Had I to do it over, I'd go with a JBC if paying anywhere close to MSRP for the Weller. Even a replacement iron for a Weller is more expensive than an entire FX-888 (WP80 or WMP are $122USD at most places, and ~$100USD from Amazon last I checked).As per the smaller iron being beneficial/useful, I prefer the smaller iron for SMD. Gives more fine control IMHO. But it comes down to personal preference in regard to the size (i.e. WP80 v. WMP on the Weller, or 245 v. 210 JBC handles), assuming they're on the same station (decent temp control unit).

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2012, 05:46:43 pm
content: But you know , there's the 900L series tips and irons ( lone unit )Nothing much needs to be said about it , or even can i ?
Are AC-Adaptors galvanically isolated - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Stefan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2013, 11:24:35 am
content: HiPretty much all wall-wards are class II, but does this imply that the outputs are floating? Our could, say, the negative output be connected to the neutral of mains?There seems to be another symbol for "insulated transformer", but those that I've measured seem to be insulated, symbol or not.thanks

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2013, 11:58:09 am
content: http://power-topics.blogspot.ca/2011/05/class-2-or-class-ii-power-supplies.htmlhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Appliance_classesClass II implies isolated outputs.

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2013, 01:00:09 pm
content: if the wall-wart has a ground pin, it is not isolated, as a rule. If it does not have a ground pin, then it is isolated, as a rule.You can check for isolation on a DC wall-wart by checking continuity between the negative polarity and ground, as I understand it.I am not a font of authority on this, though, so I welcome corrections if I'm wrong.

author: Kremmen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2013, 02:31:05 pm
content: As known, the Schuko style socket common in the EU does not enforce polarization. Accordingly either plug pin can be randomly live or neutral. A class II gizmo cannot rely on either pin being L or N every time. So isolated secondary rules.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2013, 04:09:00 pm
content: Yes, they're normally isolated, although the SMPS units tend to be more leaky as they have Y1 capacitors connected between the DC side and mains.

author: Stefan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2013, 07:01:54 pm
content: Thank you all!Very nice argumentation Kremmen. I totally missed that conclusion. Mine all have europlugs, which aren't polarized.Why would they put a capacitor between mains and the dc out?I'm planning the super trival wall-wart, dc-dc regulator, and pot "bench supply". Seems it will be isolated :-)
Are all FET pins Gate, Drain, Source? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dog80
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 01:00:09 pm
content: I've noticed that in all FETs I've come across the first pin is G, the middle is D and the last is S. Is that some industry standard? Many datasheets do not even bother to identify the pins.

author: krivx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 01:15:52 pm
content: In general I wouldn't assume that 3 pin devices are standardised, it nearly always comes back and bites you. I've never seen a FET datasheet that didn't give a pin-out, do you have any examples?

author: 8086
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 01:20:21 pm
content: Assume nothing when it comes to pinouts. I've seen multiple configurations on the simplest of devices.What datasheet doesn't show a pinout? You've not been looking at some kind of marketing literature have you?

author: steve30
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 03:21:07 pm
content: I've wondered this recently.I have a datasheet for an IRF540 which, as far as I can tell, lacks a pinout. However, the device, as far as I can tell, follows the Gate, Drain, Source arrangement.See attached for the datasheet.

author: 8086
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 03:23:22 pm
content: Quote from: steve30 on May 28, 2013, 03:21:07 pmThe pinout is on page 8.

author: steve30
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 03:33:16 pm
content: Quote from: 8086 on May 28, 2013, 03:23:22 pmI see it now. They couldn't have made it less obvious. Took me a good five minutes to find it just now

author: dog80
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 05:24:50 pm
content: Yes, it was a IRF device for me too. The pinout was probably well hidden because I couldn't find it. Why don't they put it clearly on the first page?

author: krivx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 06:23:50 pm
content: Some manufacturers will put it right on the first page, some won't. Package information is nearly always near the end so that's usually where I look next if it's not on the front page.

author: dr_p
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2013, 08:45:45 pm
content: Quote from: steve30 on May 28, 2013, 03:33:16 pmAh.... I don't see it

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2013, 01:41:11 am
content: Quote from: dr_p on May 28, 2013, 08:45:45 pm2nd to last page, in the Package Outline section.It's part of the package drawing on the right hand side.

author: dr_p
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2013, 07:26:53 am
content: Quote from: Psi on May 29, 2013, 01:41:11 amGeez... Someone needs to add the pin designations on the first page.
Are all STN white on blue LCD displays super slow ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2017, 08:31:53 am
content: All the character and graphical displays I've looked at take about a third of a second to transition a pixel from white to blue or blue to white.During the transition period each pixel takes on a pink/red hue which doesn't look great.I've looked a various youtube videos of character and graphical displays and they all seem to suffer from this lag.The black/green reflective displays are faster but I would prefer to use a white/blue display for aesthetic reasons.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2017, 09:38:27 am
content: I believe the colour has to do with the type of liquid crystal used, which also influences response time.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2017, 11:57:37 am
content: It depends on a lot of factors, really, most of which you can't influence. :/ The type of LCs used, how the display is driven, ambient temperature...I've generally found the small white-on-blue 1602 LCDs to respond at about 10Hz, with a bit of image persistence. But certainly better than 3Hz.If response time is important, maybe use a TFT display and emulate the look you want.
Are encrypted NFC DESFire card projects viable for a hobby project? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2023, 05:49:23 am
content: (For a DIY security system)Or, is it impossible to get hold of genuine DESfire encrypted cards unless you are a registered company and sign a non-disclosure agreement etc.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2023, 06:55:47 am
content: It looks like there are parts that work with other members of the MIFARE family, but I can't find anything for the DESfire ones.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIFAREhttps://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-pn532-rfid-nfc/faqI wonder if you can get easily programmable NFC cards (8051?) and roll your ownROT13 ftw.Lots of systems I've seen use simple unencrypted cleartext NFCs, they probably gave up and went for what's simplest. As a bonus: you can use some credit cards and other ID cards as your unlock key with such systems (many provide an unencrypted ID as a reply if read with the wrong/simpler reader).

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2023, 07:03:19 am
content: It looks like "MIFARE arduino" are the keywords to use when searchinghttps://reference.arduino.cc/reference/en/libraries/mfrc522/

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2023, 07:31:47 am
content: Quote from: Whales on May 30, 2023, 06:55:47 amYeah, those security systems that use the card ID are really un-security systems.My goal is to make something that isn't trivial to hack using RF sniffing or card cloning.I've looked at zigbee and xbee radio devices with a pre-shared encryption key but then you are dependent on the mobile device being battery powered.

author: barshatriplee
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2023, 07:53:34 am
content: For hobby/educational projects, PN532 NFC RFID Module will be better.
Are FFC connectors marked for pin 1?  Is there any standard to it? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2022, 03:13:46 pm
content: Are FFC connectors marked for pin 1? Is there any standard to it?

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 27, 2022, 12:06:43 pm
content: Anyone? It seems you can order FFC cables same side or opposite side conductors. Same side inverts the pin order, but opposite side does not. I'm wondering if there really is no "pin 1" standard which would mean that connectors and cables are both never marked.

author: julian1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2022, 07:31:22 pm
content: I ran into this, with a pcb design where the physical ffc connector was flipped/reversed to the desired orientation. The solution was to just buy the corresponding ffc. Eg. If the connector was all upper pins active, then get the one with all lower pins active.So it kind of doesn't matter, and one can cover the cases with part selection. There are also connectors with both upper and lower pins active. The difficultly is an accidental mistake, and if the flex is inserted upside down, it will put unwanted voltages on all device pins. So they should probably be avoided.
Are heat sink retaining clips standard/compatible? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2022, 10:58:58 am
content: Hi,The retaining clips in my TTi PL155 power supply have started to fail (please see attached pictures).So, I am looking for suitable replacements and I was wondering if there is such a thing as compatibility or a standard for them, as I could not find the exact same model online.I will check with TTi themselves if they sell the clips, but I'd like to explore any alternatives.Thanks!

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2022, 04:46:47 pm
content: Anyone any thoughts, please?

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2022, 05:09:53 pm
content: https://www.newark.com/fischer-elektronik/thfu-4/clip/dp/46T6942

author: The Chump
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2022, 10:34:42 pm
content: They look like Birmingham Aluminium clips.I can't find the clips on their website but this is one of the heatink profileshttps://www.bal-group.com/heatsink_detail/189In answer to the question, heat sink retaining clips are generally not standard/compatible

author: giosif
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2022, 07:37:59 pm
content: Thank you both for the answers!Given the clips seem to be custom for each manufacturer, I'll try to get replacement clips directly from TTi.
Are high sensitivity hall effect switches just noisier versions... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2018, 04:54:35 am
content: of normal hall effect switches. For example the Allegro a3144 switches at about 300 gauss whereas the high sensitivity version from the same manufacturer switches at about 100 gauss. Is it the same basic sensor but with a lower threshold?Would there be any benefit to using an analogue hall sensor and setting my own thresholds, or is that just reinventing the wheel?The application is for measuring the speed of a water wheel that rotates at about 2 Hz.Mike
Are I2C bus isolators such as the TI ISO1540 a good idea? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2024, 10:26:14 am
content: Trying to use one with an ESP32 and a MCP23107 IO expander has been a been a struggle.It seems as though some tiny percentage of packets are getting corrupted resulting in the MCP23017 automatically reconfiguring pins that are supposed to be inputs into outputs that are set low. This is with both sides using the same 3.3v supply and ground just for testing purposes, so there's no isolation or level shifting going on. I had pullup resistors on both sides of the isolator.I only noticed the problem due to the step-wise increase in current as each pin flipped from being an input to an output.Without the isolator in place and a single pair of pull-up resistors works as it should do.1540 datasheethttps://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/iso1540.pdfMCP23017 datasheethttps://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/aemDocuments/documents/APID/ProductDocuments/DataSheets/MCP23017-Data-Sheet-DS20001952.pdf

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2024, 12:17:55 pm
content: Please share your schematic and PCB layout. From reading the datasheet, I suspect these isolators are quite sensitive. They specify not only capacitors placed within 2mm of the device, but a PCB with all copper removed from underneath them.

author: PeteH
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 14, 2024, 02:00:27 pm
content: Is side 1 of the isolator facing the esp32 or not?Any other i2c devices on the bus?

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2024, 03:59:39 pm
content: Thanks to those that replied. I'm using a SOIC adaptor on a protoboard with 1k pullups, through hole capacitors and side 1 is facing the ESP32.After a deep dive into the datasheet it looks like it'll only work reliably when built as a proper PCB with surface mount capacitors and careful attention to the wiring capacitance.
Are IDC JTAG ISP Multicolor cables different from standard IDC cable? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jphb1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 07, 2020, 05:52:41 pm
content: Everything else being equal, can multicolor JTAG ribbons be used instead of regular (grey) cables or do they have special properties that make them unsuitable for standard applications?

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2020, 06:20:49 pm
content: No difference.