HP 3457A multimeter repair?   Advice needed... [Solved!] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2017, 05:41:13 pm
content: Hi all,recently I bought a nice, OK looking 3457A from the USA on eBay.It was advertised "as is", so I knew it would be my WRP. (Winter Repair Project)After I cleaned it -mostly outside, inside was 200% immaculate, I started testing.( I love the build quality of machines from this era!)And now the funny thing: everything seems to work: DCV, ACV, DCI, ACI, Ohm, etc. and all values seem to be spot-on!However: the extra tests, initiated by pressing ´Shift´ followed by ´Test´ does result in a "Test Failed" message.The error-code is 96, so 32 and 64.After studying the schematics I came to the following conclusion:"The meter is not broken, but the relay K201 has a dirty contact, because this relay is hardly ever used....."Based on the schematics, I think the relay K201 is only there to be able to do these tests, and since the tests are performed maybe once a year, the contact now (after 30 year!!) is dirty, and causing the failure of the tests.The relays in the measuring circuit are of a different, higher quality, type then the ´test´relays like K201.- Does anyone has experienced anything similar with an 3457A??- Is there more information about the function of relay K201??Un saludo,Satbeginner

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2017, 08:00:11 pm
content: Form the schematics from the service manual, K201 is used to separate the ohms current source. So a slightly dirty contact should not be a problem. So it is not that critical and thus likely not a really special relay. Neither low thermal EMF nor low on-resistance are needed. Only low leakage / high voltage rating could be important.

author: Johnny10
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2017, 09:13:16 pm
content: This is the same issue solved by cncjerry and I no that long ago.My unit is now 100% after repair.Passes Self Test and measures all ranges.I started by checking voltages at several points in the Test 5 circuit.Look for that post and you will see the voltages to look for on the opamps and U101.(HP 3457A Multimeter No Ohms Measurements)Error 96After rereading my posts I see I never finished the description of repair results.I will get on that.

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2017, 11:11:34 pm
content: Thanks for the tip to the thread, I am reading now!Update after reading:Your thread made me look again, and yes, I too have a problem in the Ohm ranges.It does measure the proper values, like 1k, 10k, 100k, 1M, and 10M, but in all ranges he is drifting slowly upwards in the 3th, 4th and 5th digit behind the comma.So now I will check -guided by your thread- the voltages around the hybrid and the U211 and U212 chips.Thanks!!

author: cncjerry
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 14, 2017, 03:52:23 am
content: Let me know if you need some help. J10 is right. First thing to check are the DC voltages around the input hybrid. If any of the bias voltages are off then solve them first. You'll note that there are simple voltage dividers inside U101 at pins 8 and 5. Start there and measure pin 8, 21, 17 and 18. Most likely you have a problem with the Ohms current source but it's best to check the simple things first. Follow J10's advice and problem determination in his note and then report back on the results.There is another person with a 96 error around, maybe that was J10? Can't remember, thought I saw another one.You're lucky. I had a nasty bug, very subtle, in the ohms pre-charge circuitry. I had to debug a problem where the pre-charge takes out the very slight offset caused by the input capacitance charge in that area. When I read thru the design of that meter and that circuitry in particular, I gave up all hope of ever designing a meter. These guys are smart! The input capacitance charging causes a measurable error in the reading? Go figure, who would have thought of that? It makes sense of course but someone had to think about everything when designing a meter that's good for 7.5 digits.Now that you have a 3457a, you should download the HP Journal articles on it. Pretty amazing design process. I know that meter gets a lot of shrugs because it doesn't have certain features common in meters today, but I like my two. I paid $150 for one and maybe $140 for the second and that is quite a deal.Jerry

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2017, 09:36:29 am
content: Hi Jerry,thanks for your offer to help, I really want to fix this meter.I found this post with voltages in it, so I will check things this afternoon.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/hp-3457a-no-ohms-measurements/msg1047822/#msg1047822First I have to go to the postoffice here to collect another parcel, this may contain a Fluke 45.(different story, already have one, but I love the dual display on these things. Both DC and AC at the same time. Check a voltage AND the ripple in one reading)Un saludo, groeten,SatbeginnerP.S. something came up today, so maybe tomorrow

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 06:53:26 pm
content: Hi Jerry,today I was able to take some readings around the hybrid U101.From Schematic My MeasurementsPin 4 10V 10.15Pin 8 8V/5.6V 5.96Pin 21 12V/8.4V 8.53Pin 17 8.4V 8.12Pin 18 8.4V 8.11Pin 31 +5 5.01Pin 22 -15 -15.27They seem to be OK, but yes, I still have the error-code 96 ( 32 + 64 ), although Pin 8 is a bit high.On U212 pin 7 (should be 15V) I have 14,92VReadings were taken with meter set for DCV / Auto.The thing that does worry me a bit is the reading of Pin4, the reference voltage should be 10V, so the difference of 0,15V is weird, seems big? But, on the other hand, the DCV ranges are not drifting nor giving errors, so I will be focussing on the Ohms ranges.I will check more voltages in the Ohm area U111, U211 and U212.Any suggestions are very welcome,Un saludo,Satbeginner

author: Johnny10
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 08:25:11 pm
content: Pin 4 the voltage reference.On my unit it was 10.19If you watch Dave's YouTube video teardown of the 3457A you will see him measure the voltage reference and explain why exactly 10Vdc or 10.15 or 10.19 doesn't make much of a differenceit is the temperature coefficient that is important.EEVBlog #426 - HP 3457A Multimeter Teardown28:54/ minutes in the vid Dave measures Voltage Ref

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 08:56:33 pm
content: Yeah, I read in your thread your ref-voltage of 10,19V , I agree, stability is more important than absolute value.Value can be corrected by calibration.If I look at pages 8-41 and 8-42 of the service-manual where the cause of an error-code 32 is described,and pages 8-42 and 8-43 where error-code 64 is described, besides U101 (hybrid) the common components are U211 and U212, so they must be checked more.If U111 would be bad, also an error-code 16 would be expected.So I will check voltages around U211 and U212 better tomorrow, and try to find the same drift as I see when measuring resistances.If so, my next step will be to replace them.Are both units of the type LT1012CN8 ?Can they be replaced / did you replace them by LM11C ?Un saludo,Satbeginner

author: Johnny10
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 09:02:44 pm
content: I used the LT1012CN8Couldn't find the service note changing to LM11C.I would check the voltages on both U211 and U212 as I found the voltage for each opamp follows a different path on the board.If one measures 15 volts the other must be checked for correct voltage also.

author: cncjerry
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 03:54:06 am
content: J10, you also had some cracked land patterns, correct? I was wondering if that area of the board should be checked as well.I would check U211/6 and the voltages at U216. I had a U216 failure in one of mine but I can't remember the code.Also, does it impact both 2W and 4W modes?

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 08:53:14 am
content: Really good suggestion, I did not think of testing the drift with 4-wire at all.I will test this today.Update: Yes, I see a basically good value when measuring resistance in the 4-wire way (eg. 100kOhm), but it´s having the same drift upwards in the 3rd or 4th digit behind the comma.

author: Johnny10
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 02:09:29 pm
content: I would check the voltages at U101 Pin 8 again. This should be 5.6 or 8 volts.Determined by the resistor divider and switch in U101.When my unit was not working properly I had that drift problem also, ohms measurement kept moving up or down.

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 02:48:51 pm
content: With an 100kOhm resistor connected as ' device under test' it shows 100,345 kOhm and slowly drifting up.I measured pin8 of U101, and now, depending on de range setting, it is 8,12V or 5,68V.There is no drifting in this voltage so I checked the output of U211 and U212 to see if there is drift there:U101 Pin8 U211 pin6 U212 pin65,68V 8,52V 5,23V both no drift, where the display reading does drift up8,12V 12,18V 9,21V both no drift, where the display reading does drift upSo, maybe Q211 is causing the drift? To check this I measured U101 pin21U101 Pin8 U101 Pin215,68V 8,72V going up and down !?!8,12V 12,20 looking stableSo, if the drift depends on the range the meter is in, what does this tell us?What are your thoughts on this?Is the type of Q211 FET known?I think I found it here:http://www.simonsdialogs.com/hp-crossref/,so it could be a Fairchild J304, datasheet here:http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet2/9/0pq0dqtwxu9wlx3ogyikcxchzfwy.pdfUpdate: I removed Q211 and it tested OK. (cut off voltage 2V, 14mA at Vgs=0V)So I put it back, thus eliminating a cold solder joint there. Nothing changed.un saludo,Satbeginner

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 07:29:03 pm
content: Because I had no real clue how to go on from here, I started reading my copy of the Service Manual. (RTFM.....)In there I found a list of changes implemented over time, and one of them involved the U211 and U212 OpAmp´s.In my meter they are already the newer type, 1826-1381, these are supposed to be LT1012, to reduce noise and drift.These were implemented to replace the original part, 1826-1133 (LM11C).So, if I cannot think of anything else, I think I will order a new set of LT1012´s to eliminate a possible cause of the problem.Un saludo,Satbeginner

author: Johnny10
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 08:11:00 pm
content: You checked the -15 and +15 on both U211 & U212?No variation?I found after replacing U212 that I still had fluctuating Ohms measurement.I had 13.84V instead on the one chip.Unsoldered the transistor and checked on curve tracer that was fine.I eventually followed each power supply trace back till I found an intermittent for me it was a cracked trace.U101 supplies either 5.6 volts or 8 volts to the first op amp which amplifies the signal 1.5X making voltage 8.4 or 12v.There are also a couple of capacitors you can check.I have been busy on my bathroom remodel, keeping me from pulling mine apart again to check voltages with yours.Something is amiss if you are getting the drifting measurement and the self test is catching the error.

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 10:51:22 pm
content: Hi Johnny10,I checked the power supplies on both U211 and U212, I was a bit confused at first, because I had 0V instead of -15V on U212pin4, but after checking with the schematics, it turned out that this was correct. (At least in my version of the schematic)Both OpAmps had the same +15V.What I did find was the -15V being a bit high, -15,29V, where the +15V was 14,92V.So I replaced the -15V regulator by a new LM7915.First I looked in my stock for a regulator closest to the -15V, but when I placed this one, the voltage on the OpAmps was about 0,5V low, so -14,52V. Maybe because of the rather thin tracks on the board, or would there be something drawing a high current causing this drop?Anyway, to compensate for the drop I searched for a -15,5V sample LM7915 and installed that one.Now both voltages on the OpAmp´s are the same, so +14,92V and -14,93V with only about 1mV ripple.Long story short, no change, error-codes are still 32 and 64, so 96, and resistor measurement still drifts.Eg. a 100kOhm resistor starts at 100,15 kOhm, but after drifting up to 100,378 kOhm, but it will drift down to 100,354kOhm and back up again.When I check the voltage on the outside of the 2-wire connection while measuring Ohm´s with another meter (Keithley2000) it is stable at 1,015V, so this would suggest the 3457A current-source is stable and not the cause of the problem?If so, that would indicate it is the internal voltage measurement circuit used for resistance-measurements.......Tomorrow I will look into the schematic to find where this is done.The weird thing is, that DCV measurements are as solid as a rock, but maybe that will help to identify the source of the problem,To be continued,Satbeginner

author: cncjerry
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 17, 2017, 03:10:52 am
content: Sorry, been traveling and off again tomorrow. I'll get the manual out tonight. I'm having a hard time accepting a good current source, not that I doubt your measurements.We'll fix it.

author: cncjerry
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 17, 2017, 05:01:42 am
content: The major subcircuit in test 5(32) and 6 (64) is the ohms current source. When you are seeing this big drift, is it in all ranges? I still think your current source or range select is the problem. The current source takes a lot of abuse. You could have two problems of course but if test 5 fails from current source then 6 fails as well.What I don't like is U101/21 going up and down. Is the drive constant? Look at U212/6 while watching U101/21 with a resistor being measured. Try different values and ranges and report back. Just a couple, like 100 ohms, 10K and 100K for example and keep your eye on those two pins. I don't think Q211 is the problem as you found, it would be the drive coming from U212/6.And what is U101/17 doing while U101/21 is going up and down?There's nothing subtle here. Look at the circuit on page 8-41 and 8-42 in the manual. Other than U211 and U212 you have Q111 and Q112 involved. At this point, my experience with these meters is putting money on U211 or U212. The input hybrid is pretty robust. It looks like you should have 8.4V on the output of U212. So as J10 teaches, 5.6 x 1.5 x 1 should be a constant drive to Q211 to U101/21. If U101/21 is going up and down then I think you have a problem in U211 or U212. There is a 200pF cap there on the output of U212 and that's probably OK.I'm looking at your readings. With U211/3 at 8, you should have U211/6 at 12; With U211/3 at 5.6, you should have U211/6 at 8.4. As U212 is a unity gain driver, anything appearing at U212/3 should be at U212/6. Your U212/6 values seem off:U101 Pin8 U211 pin6 U212 pin65,68V 8,52V 5,23V <---------- U212 is wrong, should be 8.528,12V 12,18V 9,21V <---------- U212 is wrong, should be 12.18This all depends on U212/2 being correct. Give us a measurement on U212/2, please.It looks like you are seeing some feed thru onto U212/6 from the FET gate to give these readings. According to these readings, U212 is probably open (or not functioning because of U212/2 which would mean a problem in U101, unlikely). I would have to think about this if U212/2 is moving around.I pulled one of my meters apart quickly tonight but forgot how hard it was to get to U212 so I can't test them until I get back the first week of February. I put a clip on it but didn't have the right probes for the clip and it spiraled into too much time with my trip coming up tomorrow.I would order U212, replace, clean all the flux from that area and test.After all these short paragraphs, I am now betting on U212. I hate putting my reputation on the line like this but after all the thinking, your results, having had problems with U212 and U211 in other meters, what the heck.If it doesn't fix it I'll send Dave another donation.Jerry

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2017, 08:49:53 am
content: Hello Jerry,first of all: Have a save trip, and you will see my feedback soon.Many thanks for your effort and time, I will go into your requested measurements today.In parallel: I ordered a set of LT1012´s at Farnell here in Spain, so they should arrive in a few days.un saludo,Satbeginner (Leo)

author: tombi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2017, 12:07:07 pm
content: Hi,With the 100K test, how much does it drift? I tried this on my 3457A with a carbon resistor I had laying around and found it will drift up for easily 30s or 1m before it settles. If I touch the resistor is falls again. I presume this is just tempco at play (it's damn hot here tonight too). It easily drifted 300 ohms before it settled.I tested the resistor with another meter and they both measure very close to the same value after settling.Tom

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2017, 08:40:25 pm
content: Hi Tombi, Jerry,After one afternoon of fooling around with this 3457A, Tombi, I think you are right about the drifting, it is temperature related.Every time when I connect eg a 100kOhm resistor, I do this by holding the resistor, causing it to warm-up, and therefore lowering its value. (Neg.Temp.Coef.)When I then start the resistance-measurement, the resistor cools down because I do not touch it, so I see the drifting-up.However, what not has changed is after reaching a ´final´ value (=stabile temperature), the value shown on the display keeps going up- and down.This behaviour seems the same with different values of resistors, eg. 100Ohm, 1kOhm, 100kOhm.And when I perform a reset (blue, reset) followed by a selftest (blue, test) it still gave a hardware error, code 96 (=32 and 64).I measured the following values on U211pin6: 8,1251(6/7)V and 12,203(7/8)V, so I consider this very stable, since only the last digit is fluctuating.So the output of U211 is stable with the correct values.About the output of U212, these values should not be the same, because the FET is used as a voltage follower, so the Source acts as the actual output of the OpAmp U212 based 1x amplifier.The circuit-explanation in the service manual says about this, the FET is added to improve linearity of the OpAmp circuit.By having the FET behind the output, the output of the OpAmp does not have to work at 12V, that would be too close to the 15V powersupply to maintain optimal linearity.The good news: at the source of the FET I see the same stable values as at the input of U212pin3.I changed location of U211 and U212 without any change to the symptoms.Since the voltage at the output (FET source) is stable, I wanted to check the result of this stable voltage, that should be a stable current through the DUT (the resistor I want to measure, connected to High/red and Low/Black).Instead of connecting a resistor, I connected a second mA meter to measure the current the 3457A is sending through the external resistor. (I used my Keithley 2000 for this)Depending on the resistor range, I see the following current change from01,01542mA00,10146mA00,01004mA00,00091mA00,00002mAAll these values are stable, only minor fluctuation in the last digit.If I repeat this measurement but with a 1kOhm resistor in series with the external Ampmeter, the values change a bit, but remain stable.But, the displayed value on the 3457A keeps going up- and down.I repeated the test, but now measuring the external voltage across a resistor under test, that voltage should be similar with the 3457A reading.The external voltage is fluctuating along with the 3457A reading on the display.I know, these two tests are conflicting..... :-(So, based on this, I have to assume there is something wrong with the current into the external resistor under test.Something else: If I perform a selftest after power-on, it fails with a errorcode 96.If I, after power-on, first perform an "AutoZero", and then directly perform a seltest, the errorcode is 64.....??To see if there is something with the Offset circuit around Q111/Q112/U11b, I performed Diagnostic-4.This allows for setting the Vos Adjust.Although the diagnostic #4 already gave "Passed", it responded well to adjustments of R113, it does show "Failed Lo" or "Failed Hi" when I turned it up and down, so I put it back to "Passed".I did look for cold solder joints around the circuit, resoldered them, mostly everything around U211, U212, Q111, Q212, Q213 - Q216.So far for a Tuesday afternoon.Final thought for tomorrow:If the voltages going into U101 are OK and stable, it could be the contacts of U101, because the resistors used to determine the test-currents, are inside U101.I read something somewhere about cleaning the contacts by pulling an IPA drenched cotton wire through the holes.Un saludo,Satbeginner

author: cncjerry
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 18, 2017, 12:38:46 am
content: Have you done a diode test on U216? I had a problem getting VOS to pass with a bad U216. One of the transistors in the array was bad and I was getting a 512 error and now and then a 512 + 32.I put a 100K resistor on my meter that was at about 55 degrees F. It warmed to room temp over 3hrs and changed from 99.9986 to 99.9979. This is a 100K, .01% low tempco. I've seen other resistors like the Hong Kong brand for instance a 10, start at 9.91427 go to 9.93020 in a few minutes and then go up and down with the air. All you have to do is blow on them from across the room.But your meter is failing. I wish I had more time to do some measurements in that area. I'll take another look when I get back.Darn, looks like I owe Dave some support...

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2017, 05:42:40 pm
content: Progress!!After again a day of poking around in the guts of this 3457A, there is some progress.I checked the current source intensively, checked all the diodes and transistors in this area, I even removed the Ohm-Overvoltage circuit completely (Q212, 213-Q216) and replaced it by a wire bridge. I wanted to exclude any possible interference in the current circuit. But alas....Later this afternoon I received the 2 LT1012´s I ordered, and now I only intermittently have a error-code 32 during the selftest.I can eliminate this error 32 completely, by performing an auto-zero when set for Ohms before running the self test after PowerOn.The drifting of the reading is (mostly) caused by the cheap -quick-and-dirty- (Chinese?) resistor I grabbed to test the meter.Other resistors perform much better.And now I have a good idea about the error 64: Imho this error occurs only because the test is not really performed correct, and not because of a failure in the Amp-measuring circuit.To perform test6 (error64) of the selftest correctly, switching of U402 and U403 is necessary. (Fig. 8-8, pag. 8-43)During the self test these two switches re-direct the set Ohm current via the Amp shunt, so an Amp test can be performed.The control signals to do this come from U123 (pin7, pin 11, pin12, etc) (Fig. 8-18 of the schematic)When I check the control inputs of both switches during a "Blue" "Test" Selftest sequence they do not move.So I checked all outputs of U123 during the test, they all move during the tests, except for Pin11 and Pin12, they stay always high.....So, because of these 2 signals being always high, the test-current cannot be seen in R401 (Amp-shunt), leading to the error 64.I will order a few MC14094BCP (U123) and maybe a HI3-0390-5 (U402) too.With respect to the error 64, my money is now on U123.It would be great if there is a member who can scope pin11 and pin12 of U123 during a selftest.I expect a TTL level with some changes during the selftest. Can somebody confirm this please?The pins 11 and 12 can be reached without removal of the AC board. The aluminium covers do have to come of though.I will keep you posted,Un saludo,Satbeginner (Leo)

author: cncjerry
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 18, 2017, 11:57:44 pm
content: Sat, did you check the precharge chip I mentioned? It is a transistor array, can't remember the number, but it caused weird test problems. Also, are you able to do the VOS successfully now?

author: Johnny10
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2017, 04:41:32 am
content: I opened the 3457A and took some measurements.And also put the scope on U123 Pins 11 and 12Pin 11 simply went high to 5 volts and stayed until the test ended.Pin 12 is in the scope pic.Very stable waveform.I will keep it open if you need more comparisons.I also remember that after the repair it took 3 or 4 days of steady power on for Error 64 to clear and pass the "Self Test OK" screen.

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2017, 08:50:06 am
content: Hi Jerry, Johnny,Yes, the offset adjustment (diagnostic4) was already working, I just wanted to see if this part of the circuit was working normally, to eliminate the usual suspects. (great movie BTW)I checked about all components in the current-source chain for both test 5 & 6, that´s how I ended up at the bottom part of the test6 circuit. (Page 8-43)After I changed both the LT1012´s (U211, U212) most of the err 32´s are gone, and resistance measurement is looking normal too.(I still have the drift, but for now I just assume this is caused by the resistors under test. (metal film, but still Chinese. Higher values seem to drift more than lower values)It seems I now have a working meter, but with a broken test-circuit? This would be the world upside down.Like I said, if I do an autozero first, the err32 is really gone, but only until power down.It might be that this behaviour has something to do with the cause of the err64.If, what I think, some electronic switches are stuck in a certain position, this may influence the results of test6.Thanks for checking U123 for me, my U123pin12 is steady at a slightly lower level than a normal ´high´, also lower than all the other outputs of U123. (I find this suspicious)Pin11 is just high at what appears to be a normal ´TTL High´.Both of them go high at PowerOn of the 3457A, and stay there.Johnny, I understand your Pin11 goes up at the begin of the test, but comes down at the end , right?I hope it is just the MC14094, because I could not quickly find a source for the switches (U402, U403)....To be continued, many thanks for your input,Satbeginner, (Leo)

author: Johnny10
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2017, 03:06:49 pm
content: Yes, Pin 11 drops after test ends. Jumps to 5 v during Test then back to zero.

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2017, 03:27:50 pm
content: Hi Johnny,thanks, this really confirms there is a hard difference between my meter and a working one!MC14094´s are shipped, should be here in 1-3 days...Will keep you posted.Un saludo from the 1st snow in 34 years,Satbeginner

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 05:36:17 pm
content: Hmm, not looking too good:in preparation for the arrival of the U123 replacements (MC14094, probably Wednesday), I removed it from the board.After that I powered-up the meter to check the two inputs of the switches U402 & U403. (U123, pin 11, pin 12)The input of switch U403 (coming from U123 pin11) now is at a logic ´low´, this looks like normal behaviour, however,the input of switch U402 (coming from U123 pin12) now is at -2V, this would explain the lower than normal level when U123 was still in place, but the -2V is very wrong.This -2V comes from the input of the switch, and further checking learned that all pin connected to this part of the switch are at wrong levels. They all are around -2V, this very strongly indicates a broken switch U402...... (I´m thinking somebody applied a serious overvoltage to the input of the meter....).So I will start looking for this part too.U 402 is an analog switch (HP partnumber 1826-1205) made by Intersil, type HI3-390-5 (sometimes indicated as HI3-0390-5)They still exist, but a minimal order quantity could be a problem.Update: I think I found suitable replacements at Mouser Europe, they should be here in 2-3 days.To be continued,Satbeginner

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2017, 08:04:31 pm
content: Again an update:Today I removed U402 in preparation of the new switch part being underway.So, at the moment both the broken U123 and U402 are removed, this enabled me to check for other weird voltages in the meter around these two chips.The good news: All the inputs of U123 are now at normal (TTL) levels, and there are no strange voltages now at any of the pins of U402.I choose to put sockets in both locations, so I can easily replace and test the functionality of both parts when they arrive., hopefully later this weekSince U123 only uses TTL-level signals, so (IMHO) using a socket there is no problem.With U402 the situation it a bit different:Most of the pins are power-supply (-15V, gnd, +15V) and (TTL level) control signals.The analog signals at both switches are used during the selftest, so for now, I assume having a socket there is not critical either and will be of minor influence to the meter when used for taking measurements.Since the ON-resistance of a U402 switch (according to the datasheet) is supposed to be smaller than 35 Ohm, having a socket in the circuit should not be a problem.If reality on the long run proves different, I will remove the sockets.P.S. the funny thing is, that the meter -even with both U123 and U402 removed) still is capable of measuring voltage and resistance.The only setting now giving OVLD is DCI (DC Amps), this because the ground circuit of the low-range Amp-measurement is now open, caused by U402 not being there.To be continued,Satbeginner (Leo)

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 05:46:52 pm
content: Again...... progress!!Today the replacement parts for switch U402 arrived, so I placed it on the board and performed a self-test......No go, a big series of errors were thrown in my direction! (32, 64, 256)I also tried to measure a 100kOhm resistor, that worked, but measuring a 10V reference voltage failed bigtime.The reference voltage dropped to about 1.8V!?!, even with the meter switched off!!I quickly switched the meter off, and went to have a look at the schematics (again).After some testing, it turned out that BOTH relays K301 and K302 had their single make contact fixed at the ´ON´ position, so this is really bad.Somebody must have done something very, very wrong while using this meter.Although these red relays are a special, metal case, sealed type of relays, I replaced them with a more basic version of a 5V relay.Wow, Wow, Wow, the selftest now works, and gives a "Self Test OK" message, also the measurement of the 10V DC reference voltage now works.However, happy with this result, I now tried a AutoCalibration (ACAL).This does give an error, the message is "1 Cal. Failed".ACAL by means of the ACAL button performs all 3 routines, 2 AC tests and 1 Ohm test.If I perform the ACAL functions individually from the menu (Blue, A, Arrow Right, Arrow Down, select Ohm, Enter) it turns out this is the calibration routine that gives the error.Performing the AC tests this way does not give any errors.So, there is definitely progress, but the Ohm circuitry is still under suspicion.Or maybe it just needs calibration because of the exchanged amplifiers.Un saludo,Satbeginner (Leo)

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 06:16:29 pm
content: Almost there......After the repairs so far, I found the following weird behaviour in the Ohms measurement, and I think this is related to the ACAL error in the Ohms routine:If I (on autorange) measure a metal film 100 kOhm resistor it measures around 100,470 kOhm.However, when I switch to one range higher it measures 0,10080 MOhm. (at least similar)Here is the weird thing:Again, one range higher (in the 300 MOhm range), the measurement changes to 00,1048 MOhm (suddenly 5% higher??)And finally in the 3 GOhm range it measures 000,105 MOhm (Again 5% higher??)This suggests it maybe is related toOption 1: the "Extended Ohms Range Circuitry" , or,Option 2: it could be related to the Hybrid U101, because pin1 in the Ohms setting is only used with the 300M and 3G range, or,Option 3: maybe there is still a problem in the switching of the Ohm current-source.To maybe rule out option 2: a DC voltage of 1V does measure OK when switching ranges.But so far I could not find an obvious failing component.Any suggestions??Un saludo,Satbeginner (Leo)

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 06:47:09 pm
content: The slightly different readings could be still a calibration (e.g. ACAL part) problem, since ACAL seemed to have not fully completed. It is still rather hard to tell were the error might be.One thing would be to go back to the basics and use second meter to measure the current in the ohms ranges. As an extra test one could add some series resistance to see if the the current is constant.A second point to test could be the input bias current in the volts range. Just to make sure there is no extra leakage path.It might also be a good idea to check the low current ranges. Some of the shunts seem to be used in the ACAL procedure for the current source too.

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 07:56:03 pm
content: Hello Kleinstein,thanks for the suggestions, will check them tomorrow.Although I am not sure what you mean by checking "the input bias current in the Volts range"?Do you mean if there is current flowing into the meter when measuring voltages?The ACAL function does end, but with an arrow above the ERR indicator, the error is "1 Cal. Failed".If I run the ACAL AC functions, it ends error-free.The Ohms test ends with an error.Will let you know tomorrow.Un saludo,Satbeginner

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 08:08:25 pm
content: Form a damage due to over-voltage, there is small change that the voltage measurement will not be that low current any more. So than there will be extra current of more than the usual 10-50 pA. Also contamination of the board could case such a problem. Obviously some extra current could upset the measurement of high resistors.AC measurement is largely separate so no surprise that at least AC ACAL would work Ok. The more interesting part would be the (DC) current modes as they are more linked to the Ohms.

author: Johnny10
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 10:55:52 pm
content: I am sorry to hear you are still having problems with your unit.I picked up a 100k 1% resistor and checked on my 3457 today.5 digit readout. 6 digit readoutAuto. 099.681 K. 099.6813 KUp Arrow. 0.09968 M. 0.099682 MUp Arrow. 00.0997 M. 00.09971 MUp Arrow. 000.100 M. 000.0997 MIf you need any other measurements just ask.

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 01:52:32 pm
content: Hi all, thanks for all the help, tips and feedback: I am happy to say my 3457A is back in business!!My latest actions:I thoroughly cleaned the A2 board and the U101 Hybrid with IPA, no change.I checked the input resistance of the U101 Hybrid (10 MOhm), spot on, so all OK.I checked the Amp- and DC Voltage ranges with my HP 3468 and a Keithley 2000, all OK.I checked the Ohms-currentsource again, this time by using my Keithley175A as Amp-meter.This one has a 200,00 uA full scale setting and with this I could confirm all currents -even the very low ones- were there.In the lowest Ohm range (30 Ohm) the current at the HI-LO front connectors was 1,0156 mA, stepping down in factor 10 steps to 0,10 uA in the 30 MOhm and 300MOhm ranges, so this was good.Still, the display would be about 5% off (high) when using the 2 highest ranges......My conclusion: it had to be the gain-calibration of these ranges!As far as I could find, this meter has all separate calibration values stored for each individual setting and range, so I decided to "calibrate" the 2 highest 2-Wire Ohm-ranges, this leaving the rest of the meter´s calibration untouched.I first did an Offset-calibration on all the 2-Wire Ohm ranges, since this is easy and only needs a copper wire bridge.After that I made myself a 30 MOhm "standard" resistor by combining several metal-film resistors to a 30,0 MOhm resistor, I used my Keithley 175A as "the reference" for this.Well, it turned out there is only one High range to calibrate, that would be the 30 MOhm range. It looks like the 300 MOhm range is derived from the 30 MOhm range calibration.So I manually selected the 30 MOhm range, connected my "standard resistor" and went for "Blue", followed by "C, Offset Comp", and the "CAL" appeared in the display.Now I entered 30000000,3457 followed by <ENT>. (P.S.: I had to reset the security code by changing the jumper on the A1 board)It said "Calibrating" and after that it read 30,0120 MOhm.I tried a calibration with other values as well, but it looks like calibration is only possible when using Full-Scale values, plus- or minus a small deviation.So, when I tried to set calibration in the 30M range with a 10M resistor, it would display "Calibrating", but nothing would change.Also, when I used my 30M resistor and entered 30800000,3457 <ENT> it would not change anything.Entering 30200000,3457 does work.Anyway, after the calibration with my 30M resistor using 30000000,3457 I performed an "ACAL" and hurray, it finished without any error-message or indicator.Also the simple test with my 100 kOhm resistor is good now.So, here is my resume of this (successful) repair:- 2x OpAmp in the currentsource U211, U212- Q212 in the Ohms Overvoltage protection- U402 Analog Switch, replaced by a MAXIM DG390 (Mouser)- U123 MC14094, serial to parallel shift register- 2x reed relay K301, K302, temporarily replaced by simple, small enclosed 5V relays, will be replaced by 1A05 DIP4 reed relay 5V reed relays. (Don´t think the metal magnetic shielding is really necessary here)All these parts are in the input-circuitry, so this definitely suggest that the input was exposed to a huge overvoltage.Again, many, many thanks for all the help!!Un saludo,Satbeginner (Leo)

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 02:16:43 pm
content: The metal shield with reed relays is not only for shielding. It also helps to make the relay more sensitive, so it can work with less current and thus lower power.The relays K301 and K302 do not look like they are really critical for small DC voltages. So normal reed relays could be OK.

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 02:30:37 pm
content: Thanks for the extra info.I ordered the reed relays, because I do not want to stress the U101 too much in the long run.The original relays have 330 Ohm coil resistance, the normal relays I use now have only 150 Ohm, so they are pulling 30 mA from the U101.The new ones to come have a 500 Ohm resistance, so less current from U101.

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 02:34:39 pm
content: Quote from: cncjerry on January 18, 2017, 11:57:44 pmHi, yes, I checked all voltages around this array (U216 in the Pre-Charge circuit), and they all seemed normal.With the meter powered off, I also checked the forward- and reverse voltages of the transistors, that looked normal too. (although I did the tests with the array still on the board)Not sure what you mean by VOS?un saludo

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 02:51:54 pm
content: To check the precharge offset, one could test the input bias current / input impedance for the 300 mV or 3 V range. A wrong precharge would cause excessive input bias, especially for short integration time with AZ active.It might be a good idea to check this after a repair near the input section anyway, as the bias might also be influenced by contamination as well.

author: HUGOMAN
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 07:12:11 pm
content: Hi Satbeginnerreally you made a good work on your 3457A, my CONGRATULATIONS.By this opportunity i hope that you can help me to solve almost the same problem as yours with my 3458A giving error 205 out of range 95, it fails during autocalibration on 1/10µA it goes out, then no measurement on ohm ranges.i hope you could analyse the schematic to find out the faulty components.i will ready to make measurements.ThanksHUGOMAN

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2017, 08:12:01 pm
content: Quote from: HUGOMAN on January 29, 2017, 07:12:11 pmHi Hugoman,I will have a look, will get the schematics first.I am sure you have seen this site:https://www.element14.com/community/thread/46107/l/worklog-repair-of-20-year-old-precision-multimeter-hp-3458a?displayFullThread=trueHere I found something about the err 95, has something todo with the ref.voltage:"DCI ranges 10nA, 100nA, 1uA, 10uA, 100uA showin zero, no matter what current supplied into meter. So those ranges are broken. That cause self-test fail on value 95 as well."And this one:https://xdevs.com/fix/hp3458a/And I found this in another manual:Agilent Technologies3458A MultimeterAssembly-Level Repair ManualPage 77, 78------------------------------------------------------------------------------------205 Test Value Out of Range See text"TEST VALUE OUT OF RANGE" Error MessageThis error message indicates that a test did not meet certain pre-definedlimits. The number displayed next to the message indicates the test limit thatwas exceeded during the testThe number can be used to determine the assembly that caused the test tofail. Numbers from 62 through 189 indicate a failure on the DC Circuitry(A1) assembly.Numbers from 190 and above indicate a failure on the ACConverter (A2) assembly. Refer to the Assemblies Removal/InstallationProcedures in Chapter 3 of this manual to replace a defective assembly.------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

author: ManateeMafia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 04:23:02 am
content: Quote from: HUGOMAN on January 29, 2017, 07:12:11 pmHugoman,If you start a new thread with the description of your error, you can bet that more people will respond. The link by Satbeginner is also one of your best resources.

author: lowimpedance
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 05:34:56 am
content: Quote from: ManateeMafia on January 30, 2017, 04:23:02 amHe did on Jan. 27th.

author: ManateeMafia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 05:41:56 am
content: My bad. I missed that one.

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2017, 10:59:01 pm
content: Hi all,Still very happy with my working 3457A.Today I received the replacement reed relays, so I replaced the temporary ones.I used these: 5V 1x NO.Un saludo,Satbeginner

author: wiesl
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2021, 02:36:17 pm
content: Where did you get them?

author: Satbeginner
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2021, 03:29:27 pm
content: Quote from: wiesl on March 16, 2021, 02:36:17 pmHi,I bought these at AliExpress, still work perfect.€ 7,39 13%OFF | 10pcs/lot SIP-1A05 SIP-1A05 DIP4 relay 5V Voltage Best qualityhttps://a.aliexpress.com/_v6ixHDLeo