hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
PCB Board for Esk8 Battery - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: MarkVa1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 10, 2023, 04:34:50 pm
content: Hello - my first post here and my first time making a PCB Board.Quick background: Through a different Esk8 forum, a builder shared with me his PCB Board which he used for his battery pack. It's a custom shape to work within his enclosure and I'm trying to replicate something similar but that fits my enclosure and available space. But I'm struggling at identifying the right components to use along with some general confusion about the PCB itself. So after trying to figure it out myself and failing, I thought I'd look for a good forum to seek advice! So here I' am...I own a CNC machine and milled some 21700 battery holders out of Delrin and used tinned copper metal braided sleeving as the wire for my existing 12s4p battery. I've been using Fusion 360 so I'd like to continue with Fusion to design by PCB Board. Above each terminal, I threaded a flat head set screw through the Delrin to put pressure on the braided sleeve to contact the terminal. It works pretty well, but some of the connections were unreliable and my battery wasn't performing as it should. Thus I came across the idea of using PCB Boards to cap the battery packs and connect them together with 12 AWG wire and ring terminals. That seems like a better way to go, more reliable, and I can the challenge of trying to make a PCB board.So what's confusing me? I think I want some type of spring leaf terminal soldered to the PCB, but I'm not sure what those actually solder too? Perhaps an electrode on the PCB, but I'm not sure how to depict that in my wiring schematic diagram? The batteries have a 45 Amp rating and I'm thinking I should use power planes to transmit the high current. I doubt I will ever push the batteries that hard continuously as going over 30 mph on a skateboard is not something I'm doing willingly.The example I'm following has a 2 pin port for the Battery Management System (BMS) wires - so I need to figure out the traces for those. And then some screw terminals for connecting each pack using the 12 AWG wire and ring terminals.I've been using the SnapEDA website to try and find the right components as that site makes it easy to upload my library into Fusion 360. As a newbie, I'm finding the Fusion 360 library search difficult to work with as I don't know the lingo... And the pictures on SnapEDA are easier for me to work with. I found some flush mounted screw terminals but aside from them, searching through the thousand of choices for components is proving too much for me.I did some rough trace width calculations for 45 Amps and at 2 ounces I'm getting 3" width? So I think power planes are the way to go but not sure if the standard typical plane will work for me or if I need something beefier?Anyway, any advice is appreciated! The pics I'm posting are my existing battery and the example I'm trying to emulate, but with a different shape, etc. The white Delrin is my battery and the pics with the PCB is the example.Thanks!
pcb board signal traces problems - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: zenghong
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 05:50:32 am
content: Hi all,I am new here and found out it's a really amazing forum.I am trying to learn some pcb testing technique and there is a question that i was asked is if the signal traces signal have a very large rise time and small fall time(there is also a vdd trace and gnd traces). I think it might be too much capacitance to load?! But no idea to how to fix it.It might be operating in high frequency but I think it also have this problem in low frequency. In addition, what if a vice versa situation?I hope to know not only the possible answers but also any references I can search for such kinds of problems?thank you guys!

author: Kremmen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 09:14:30 am
content: Not quite sure what you are asking here, exactly. But i assume your problem is that a signal in your PCB exhibits too long rise and fall times at both high and low frequencies.If this is the case, then typically your load capacitance is too large in relation to the source impedance of whatever drives the load.You get high frequency signal transition issues when your traces act as transmission lines but are not terminated correctly, causing reflections and standing waves. This phenomenon however is not seen on low frequencies so it will not explain your problem if it is independent of frequency, as i understand from your post.Can you reword your question in a more specific way? Then it might be easier to give a more specific answer.

author: ptricks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 12:36:00 pm
content: Really need information on what frequencies are involved.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 01:49:13 pm
content: Long rise time and short fall time means that the pull-up current is too low.Nothing wrong with the capacitance. If capacitance is a problem then both rise and fall would be problematic ( assuming symmetric current handling capability in all driver stages ).Add a pull up resistor. That will speed up rise time.

author: zenghong
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 04:12:02 pm
content: How to connect a pull-up resistor? From vdd to signal traces?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 07:08:58 pm
content: Correct. Depending on speed and the output drive capability of the drivers it can be any value from 150R to 10K.

author: zenghong
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 10:00:23 pm
content: Thank you. So if the problem is at fall time a pull-down resistor can solve the problem?
PCB board to transform single ended to differential with a Transformer: RF help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: anpiri
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 13, 2025, 09:44:17 am
content: Hi all,I am working on a project that requires 8 channel signal being converted into 8 differential signal using ‘Balun’s’ or transformers. This is because I need to connect 8 antenna's that are single ended to an FPGA ZCU208 evaluation board that has differential inputs. I am not experienced with RF components, and so I lack knowledge to ensure this conversion is done correctly. Any help regarding isolation, trace sizes and general board design would be appreciated.I have made a basic 2 layer PCB design based on a schematic I found online for a transformer evaluation board using the components;1) TCM2-63WX+; 1:2 CORE & WIRE Transformer, 30 - 6000 MHz, 50Ω | TCM2-63WX+ | Mini-Circuits2) 0.5 PF capacitor3) SMA edge connectors for the input and outputs. I designed the footprint for this SMA myself and based it off the mechanical dimensions.My question is, what other things should I be thinking about to reduce crosstalk and any other problems? Trace width? I know we expect to be using around 5Ghz signals. Any advice regarding current spacing and trace widths would be appreciated.My schematic has been included where it is 8 of the same circuit, and the current pcb layout included as well. Would one ground plane and one copper plane be good enough? Should the signal trace be thicker than all?There is the PCB layout for the evaluation board provided, so I tried to replicate it and place 8 on the same pcb essentially.FPGA eval board link:https://docs.amd.com/v/u/en-US/ug1410-zcu208-eval-bdTransformer link:https://www.minicircuits.com/WebStore/dashboard.html?model=TCM2-63WX%2BTransformer eval board PCB layout:https://www.minicircuits.com/pcb/98-pl380.pdf
PCB coil design principles - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tommys
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 03, 2023, 07:56:19 pm
content: Hello everyone,I have to design a small pcb coil for small metal particles absorption in liquids (oils). I have never done coil pcb design so I want to know what should I pay attention to? Can the inductor be routed on one side of the board for example? How to avoid possible coil heating, magnetic field deficiency (weakness)?

author: barshatriplee
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2023, 08:59:52 am
content: The inductor can be routed on one side of the board or on both sides. However, using a copper trace for the coil can help to reduce the resistance and improve the performance of the coil. Overheating can cause the coil to lose its magnetic properties, which can reduce its performance. To avoid overheating, make sure that your coil has an appropriate current rating and that it is not exposed to high temperatures.The magnetic field generated by the coil should be strong enough to attract the metal particles, but not so strong that it interferes with other components in your circuit. You may need to experiment with different coil geometries to achieve the desired magnetic field strength.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2023, 03:10:45 pm
content: barshatriplee points out the problem with fringing flux spashing onto other parts of your circuit.Its not too hard to creat very small inductances- a few uH and under.I'd start with a track width that will carry your coil current without any significant heating and go from there.There's handy tool here- webench.ti.com/wb5/LDC/#/spiralsAbove low values of L they start to get inconvieniently big with corespondingly lower flux densitiesTo attract even very small metal particles you'll need a fairly high flux density I imagine.Size and current handling might be too low for a pcb inductor.I once layed out diagonal condcutors with pth pads on the ends on a bit of flex-pcb and rolled it into a tube.I glued the edge and joined the turns by hand soldering through the pads.
PCB Common Mode Chokes? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jstarr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2015, 06:42:17 pm
content: I came across a stash of three types of PCB jumpers going through what looks like a ferrite bead. At first glance I thought the top component in the attached picture was a jumper but on close inspection it has 4 wires with >4 Mohms resistance between pairs on the same side and 0 ohms between opposite side pairs. I measure the inductance and Q at 15 kHz across the single pairs and found them to be about 5 uH, Q ~20. Then I measured them after twisting the pairs on each together and still about 5 uH with Q about 26. Is this a common mode choke? How would you keep the adjacent wires from touching/crossing on a PCB as the wires insert into the ferrite bead at the same point on each side? Are they other two types common mode chokes also? I thought all common mode chokes were 4 wire?tia john

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2015, 06:00:00 am
content: Yes, but even more specifically, that type of core is most often used in RF matching, amplifying and mixing applications, where the wide bandwidth of the core (high inductivity means fewer turns and lower capacitance) allows easy design (it can be treated as a transformer, without having to cancel out the reactance or deal with poor coupling), and wide band performance (one of those transformers might handle the entire cable TV spectrum at once).The enamel should be colored differently, so that hand insertion would be able to get the correct phase.The rest are just ferrite beads. As you say, unless there are four (or more) wires, there's nothing to be common against.FBs are good for filtering signal level currents. They are often found in power supply paths, but this can be tricky; they saturate easily at modest DC current, defeating the purpose (for those applications, a proper inductor should be used instead, which can handle the required current). They are of particular value when it's desirable to isolate internal and external signals: preventing external RFI from entering a circuit (via connector), and filtering internal noise from leaving (same thing, opposite direction).Tim
PCB Connectors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: iamnothim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2013, 10:21:53 pm
content: Hello,For my vacuum tube tester project I'd like to get a recommendation for brand and model (DipTrace part) of PCB connectors for 22 ga. wire.I'll have a top panel with qty 2 x 9-pin vacuum tube receptacle, a 3P2T toggle switch, a 1P1T toggle switch, a rheostat, and a couple of indicator lights. Also 2 6V AC secondaries, and a 30 - 100 V AC secondary for cathode / anode / grid voltage.Stated another way the PCB will have 2 tube groups of 9 conductors, 1 switch group with 9 conductors, and 5-6 groups with 2 conductors.All the panel components have solder lugs and I'd like to be able to disconnect the leads from the board. I plan on mounting the board by standoff's attached underneath the panel.I will mount the transformers on the bottom of the enclosure. I purchased a fused A/C receptacle for side of the enclosure for the primary transformer connections.Thanks

author: iamnothim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 09:07:13 pm
content: Hi,I think I'm going to use these connectors.Has anyone used them?I have not looked to see if they are in DipTrace yet.Thanks

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 09:31:10 pm
content: Quote from: iamnothim on March 12, 2013, 09:07:13 pmWho cares? Draw them.

author: iamnothim
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2013, 09:33:14 pm
content: gotcha
RP2350 PCB Design / PCB Design Costs Questions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 76-7
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 04:07:39 am
content: I found some open source software which runs on RP2350. I want an RP2350 host board which meets my size and additional hardware on the PCB requirements. What is a fair rate for a customer to pay someone to design a custom PCB?It will need USB (Two; one for normal/general usage and another for privileged operations like DFU/Firmware update) (Type-C receptacle/Type-A receptacles (ports)*, a small ~1-3in. display, some non-volatile storage, PSRAM/RAM, SD/microSD card slot, and a few buttons for user GUI navigation of an up/down/left/right/enter menu), and a battery input + charge circuit. (Though if the PCB can be small enough/structurally supported a plug/stick form factor could also possibly work...)edit: As an hourly rate or a 'whole project' rate.edit: Updated requirements.

author: jumpstart
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 26, 2025, 04:31:16 am
content: PM sent
PCB design and fab help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Sigmoid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2013, 05:13:44 pm
content: Hey guys,Honestly, I do not like veroboards. They are uncomfortable all the way from designing to soldering... However, I found the entry barrier to getting a PCB manufactured with any open source PCB design package extremely high so far.Is there some online resource that walks one through the process of using, say, KiCAD, from scratch to a Gerber package I'm sending to the manufacturer? (Including things like creating a footprint for a phone jack socket I bought cheap off Mouser.)Or a book, for that matter?I'm not primarily interested in the technical details of how to design a good PCB, I've found a lot of resources about that. I'm more stuck on the hands-on details of using the software suite and ending up with a Gerber that will result in a PCB I'd expect.Also, I'd love to avoid using Eagle.

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2013, 07:10:02 pm
content: SeeContextual Electronics

author: Sigmoid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2013, 07:33:11 pm
content: Quote from: mtdoc on December 13, 2013, 07:10:02 pmCool thanks!
PCB design cost calculations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vindhyachal.takniki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2016, 03:22:12 pm
content: What is most used practice for PCB design cost calculation. I have designed a 310 mm x 170 mm board.Below are specs:Total number of pins: 899Pins in a net: 899Not connected pins: 0Test pins: 0Jumpers: 0Total number of vias: 185Total number of connections: 651Unrouted connections: 0Completion: 100%Total number of parts: 285Total number of nets: 253PCB size: 310mm x 170mmNo of layers: 2

author: matseng
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2016, 03:32:50 pm
content: Eh? Maybe the number of hours worked on the project times your desired hourly salary?
pcb design for 220v - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cosminnci
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2013, 07:04:14 pm
content: Hello,I need to design a pcb which senses voltage presence (220v) the circuit would be 2 1206 resistors and an smd rectifier bridge.the pcb receives a null and 3 different phases R S T but only 220vwhat are the minimum isolation requirements between traces?thank you.regards,Cosmin

author: jmdejoanelli
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2013, 11:27:56 am
content: Cosmin,Check out page 39 of IPC-2221 (google: "IPC-2221 filetype:pdf" to find a free copy)Electrical clearance requirements are based on multiple factors, the main ones being Elevation of operation, PCB trace coating and peak voltage potential obviously.You mentioned that you will be working with 220 V. I assume you mean mains, i.e. AC, in which case the peak voltage is actually 220 * sqrt(2) =~ 311 V.Another thing you need to consider is the voltage rating of the SMT resistors you plan to use. Normally, for a 1206 package, 200 V is near the upper limit, so you might want to think about dividing the resistance across a few series resistors to increase your effective resistor breakdown voltage.Cheers,Josef
PCB Design Help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: SimpleName20
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 20, 2021, 03:27:22 pm
content: Hello everyone, hope everyone is well! I have a few questions regarding a PCB design I'm currently doing, which will be used in a switch matrix.As a preface, I'm a complete newb and have no prior experience to any electronics and have only messed with a multimeter and a battery.In regards to the PCB, the first is the typical is the layout any good?The others are the following:How would I go about routing the ground for the 2 USB ports? I would like them both to be able to connect to a host (Example: left port to a PC, right port to a laptop), and either one can be a main input though the left has preference. If my reading is correct, having both as host might introduce ground differentials and it might be problematic to tie both USBs to ground.In a similar vien to the first point, how would I route the power for the two USB ports? I decided to put a Schottky diode to merge the two power, but I don't know if that is a good idea. Idealy, I would like it so that I can choose either the right or the left as the main device (as in I can plug a cable to either one and leave the other floating)Would the way I am connecting the USB sheilds be ok? There is lots of varying opinion on what to do with the shield and the one I settled on was to put a footprint for a 0805 resistor/cap just in case and to put a zero ohm jumper resistor when it's time to build.Is the 12Mhz crystal a bit overkill for my use case?And that would be all the question I have for now, any tips and help will be appreciated and thank you for taking the time to read through this :)

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2021, 06:01:36 pm
content: The obvious error is that you do not have a GND plane at all.You just have a bunch of copper that is barely connected.A good GND plane is continuous and does not have big holes or tracks through it.The simplest way to achieve this is by changing your PCB to a 4-layer PCB, but this is a quite simple design and it can be done quite decently on two layers, but you have to move the tracks out of the green layer, and use it to make a continuous GND plane.Using via stitching is also a solution, but it's far from optimal.

author: SimpleName20
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 20, 2021, 06:15:05 pm
content: Hm, I see what you mean though I can't see much other ways to route the traces for the USB data lines and power rail unless I start putting more vias and completly redesign how the layout isAs for a 4 layer pcb, I much prefer to stick to 2 layer for now to keep cost low, though if needed I might consider that option.
Pcb design Parameters  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TorqueRanger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2015, 10:45:25 pm
content: I been learning diptrace and know each PCB build house has it's own rules .. But when you PCB's how do you know how wide of a trace do you use or what pad size ?? Is there any thread or information you could point me too ??

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2015, 01:03:30 am
content: Trace width is defined by current and layer. Google for 'trace width calculator.Pad size : 0.2mm over pin diameter. for the drill. Pin diameter * 1.75 to 2 for pad size.Vias are drill + 2x minimum track width

author: LukeW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2015, 09:27:14 am
content: Assuming that there are no special cases such as controlled impedance transmission lines, make the traces all thicker unless you need to make them smaller to fit.If your fab specifies 5 thou as the design rule that does not mean you must make every track 5 thou - unless you really need the density then you should work to a coarser design rule, such as 10/10, which means less chance of problems, both short and open circuits. And even thicker than that if it's a high-power or high-heat-dissipation system.
PCB Design preference, is there any good amoge these? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2025, 04:44:26 pm
content: I'm sharing here three types of traces that I see on different PCBs, I want to know is there anything like good approach between these three designs where traces connecting to a padif there is preference is it because of some technical reason?pictures are attached- pcb_trace1- pcb_trace2- pcb_trace3

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2025, 07:48:53 pm
content: In normal fairly "low" frequency (less than several MHz) stuff, where you;re not dealing with supersensitive anlogue signals that need to avoid crosstalk, all are equally suitable.Ofcourse if you're trying to squeeze extra components/traces on to a circuit board which features this section, then 3 might be preferable as it leaves a bit more area free for other stuff to go in.If you are at high frequency then you might need to length, or impedance, match certain traces, so which shape you use at this end could well be determined by how far each trace goes before it's other end. If you're at high frequency you'll need someone with more experience of that area than me to answer for you. Also, at high frequency you might need to care about unintentional antennas in the design that could pump out unwanted radio signals and interfere with other things (inside the thing you've designed, or in other devices near it), in which cases there are lots of complex arguments about which trace type is better and maybe a need to trial and error it with tests of each.If you're trying to avoid crosstalk you might consider ensuring the traces are further apart so there could be sections of ground plane between each of them. Again, someone with more experience there might have further tips, things can get weird when dealing with super precise stuff, to the extent that sometimes you need guard traces of various kinds, and using ground planes this way is not always suitable.For manufacturability, like issues with sharp acute angles leading to acid trapping (not much of a problem with modern PCB manufacturers supposedly), all designs seem about equal. So long as the scale isn't so tight that traces are under 0.15mm wide or coming within 0.15mm of each other, the designs are all equal. Design 3, if it was really small, due to the corner on the third trace right beside the edge of the ground plane where it is curving between the second and fourth traces, might have issues on a bad day if manufactured at a very small size, but would be just as fine as the others as long as everything is large enough for the boardhouse's tolerance.Unless at high frequency, super sensitive analogue, or unless those apparent through holes are infact tiny vias and this whole thing is using <0.15mm traces and trace-to-trace spacings, there's no need to worry about one versus another. Just do whichever comes most easily when the rest of your design is fitted on to the same board.
PCB design Program¿?¿ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TorqueRanger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2014, 03:04:34 am
content: I know another PCB build program question.. Sorry ..But I am looking into building my own PCB's ... I have real hard time trying to learn any electronic building program .. My plan is build mostly thr-hole boards with a possibility of smd work but also putting font on the top side for components... But I am looking for a simply program with not exact components just basic symbols that I can change to correct name later and can be turn into a file I can print with my laser jet and then thermal transfer... I was checking out Lt spice but wssnt sure if I could PCB layout to print or is there something better to try???Thanks

author: Thor-Arne
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 07, 2014, 09:06:47 am
content: LT Spice is a circuit simulation program, it can't do anything beside that.You can find your design packageshere.

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2014, 09:20:12 am
content: I would recommend DipTrace

author: Wilksey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2014, 11:37:22 am
content: For a beginner it's quite hard to recommend, DipTrace arguably has one of the better UI's in the small / free game, though with MultiSim Blue from Mouse (NI Multisim) that might be a better option.Eagle, and KiCAD both have a large online presence, probably the biggest of them all, in terms of tutorials, part libraries, etc.Design Spark might also work for you, it's free and unlimited, from RS, I could never get on with it but it is a nice package.If I were you, clear an afternoon (or several) download:DipTraceEagleMultiSim BlueKiCADDesign Sparkand have a play with them all, have a look at the tutorial guides first to see how steep the learning curve is.Ultimately only you can decide on which program to use, none of us here on the EEVBlog can agree on a single package !

author: hammy
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 07, 2014, 01:31:59 pm
content: Quote from: Wilksey on November 07, 2014, 11:37:22 am... and:Target 3001!

author: TorqueRanger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2014, 03:32:28 am
content: Well I was checking out Designspark and Diptrace tonight .. I like designspark and not so much diptrace .. Designspark is pretty simple and I just pick and place a component and keep it moving ..Diptrace I have to find the right size or pad style and that gives me a huge headache and just really annoying..So now to try some more and see what happens .. Any other suggestions
PCB Design Review Request – KiCad Project (Teensy 4.1 + MIDI Controller) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: playplay
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 14, 2025, 06:04:09 am
content: Hello everyone,I’ve designed a custom PCB in KiCad for a MIDI controller based on a Teensy 4.1. I'm on my 3rd iteration and before changing the design if needed and sending it for manufacturing again, I’d like to have an experienced set of eyes review the schematic and layout to make sure everything looks solid and that I’m not missing any best practices.Project details:• Microcontroller: Teensy 4.1• Inputs: Multiple analog potentiometers + multiplexers (74HC4067)• LED indicators with PWM control• USB-MIDI communication only (no DIN)• Power: 3.3V USBWhat I’d like feedback on:• Analog vs. digital ground separation• Power supply decoupling and bulk capacitor placement• Trace routing for analog signals (noise, crosstalk)• Ferrite beads and ESD protection choices• General layout sanity check (vias, trace widths, etc.)Files provided:• Schematic (PDF)• PCB tracks layout (top/bottom layers) (PDF)• KiCad project files if neededAny comments on improvements or potential problems would be super helpful before I commit to a PCB order.Thanks a lot in advance!
PCB design Using CAD SOFtwares - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: siddhant9850
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 12:36:59 pm
content: Hi guys I am trying to design a circuit using Cn3722 by consonance. but as i don't have any specific idea about using a CAD software o design PCB iam needing some advice as well as your help. I don't know any software of CAD for PCB design please let me know a software with enough tutorials on youtube so that i can learn it by my self but please let me know if any of you have any idea about how ican do this quickly i dont if thats gonna help you but still iam posting a diagram which i am using

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 02:56:22 pm
content: Search for Cadsoft Eagle, plenty of tutorials on YouTube.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 03:32:59 pm
content: Please don't double post.,
PCB Etching test pattern? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jebnor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2013, 05:43:33 pm
content: Does anyone have a PCB Etching test pattern for a 4x6, or smaller, board? I have had to buy a new UV Lamp and I'd like to test it before I etch 'real' boards.Ideally, I'll have 4-6 of the same pattern on a 4x6" board. I'll then bracket the expected exposure time to see which turns out best. If I can't find one, I'll make one. It will probably just have positive and negative trace widths and a couple of drill pad diameters. When building my own boards I just leave a 16mil center for the pads and vary the outer diameter to the required size. This allows me to use whatever drill size is appropriate and if I miss a little, I don't have non-copper next to the hole. If I end up making one, I'll post it.

author: Paul Price
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2013, 06:53:58 pm
content: Why not use some free download PCB generating software and make your own in a few minutes?

author: hlavac
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2013, 08:44:53 pm
content: I have made one in the past for exactly this purpose (calibrating exposure time for my UV source).I'll try to find whether I still have it when I get back to my computer in a bit...

author: 4to20Milliamps
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2013, 12:02:33 am
content: This seemed like a good reason to fire up eagle and see if I could still use it, I'm not sure if this is what you had in mind or not:

author: hlavac
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2013, 12:52:10 am
content: Found it, here it is. Eagle format (5.x I think, it's been a while). Don't forget to run Ratsnest before printing it.Its very simple. Cover it all, leave just the section 10 exposed. Turn on the UV light, and every time interval (I used 1 minute at the time, my UV source was not very strong) uncover another section.When you develop the board, low numbers will be underexposed, high will be overexposed, and somewhere in between there will be your sweet spotTurned out to be about 4 minutes for me at the time (UV lightbulb for dark light, not very ideal, too short wavelength). With my new UV LED based source it would be more like 10 second intervals.
PCB etching undercut / over etching issue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rfguy2020
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2022, 11:41:32 am
content: I have been etching prototype boards with press and peel film and simple etching tank (no bubbles or heating etc.). Process has been working great with thin metallization (10um).I would like to use thicker metallization (30um) now. Problem is that thicker metal causes more undercut / over etching. One way to overcome the issue is to compensate undercut with design, but then I have problem with short cuts.I have been thinking that spray etching might reduce the undercut problem, because spray would not penetrate so much under the resist. Does anyone have experience, if spray etching would reduce undercut problem?

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2022, 12:15:29 pm
content: Undercutting in PCB fabrication has been well studied. In general, ferric chloride gives less undercutting than cupric chloride or other agents:http://www.chemcut.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Chemcut_Thoughts_on_Undercut.pdfSome articles use ferric chloride as the "standard." I have done 4 oz (about 140 um) copper well with ferric chloride.EDIT: Added dimension in um

author: rfguy2020
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2022, 06:36:10 am
content: I couldn't find answer to my question from the document. I would like to know if spray etching reduce undercut problem compared with immersion etching. Most prototype spray etching machines seems to use vertical rotary spray system. I have read that horizontal spray etching has less undercut problem.
PCB Footprints - Using OrCad PSpice and PCB Editor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: staticshock
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2019, 04:19:29 pm
content: I've used PSpice quite a bit to be familiar, but have never used the PCB Editor or any kind of PCB software. Anyways, I'm in need of some help on understanding the footprints needed to create a PCB design on the PCB Editor. I've watch a video on YouTube on how to use the PCB Editor, but I'm not entirely sure of the exact footprints to use as the person in the video doesn't go into detail about that; just the process of creating a design. This may turn into a thread with multiple questions. Starting off, I'm going to edit the resistors in my schematic to specify the resistor footprints. I've come across the .dra files in the Cadence files. Can someone explain what the differences are among res400, res500.dra, res600.dra, res800.dra, and res1000.dra??? Do they have different size specs, does it matter which one is selected, etc.

author: CadenceAE
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2019, 01:53:58 pm
content: I recommend using the PCB symbols built for the part as specified by the part vendor. You can find these already built for free at websites like snap-eda, OrCAD ultra librarian, pcb libraries etc..Those symbols correspond to common resistor sizes 0402, 0603 etc...
PCB for home automation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Skipperro
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 07, 2021, 08:09:19 am
content: Hi there,I bought a new house and there is a nice stone cave with statue and small water fountain there, but previous owner neglected it and it's broken. I want to fix it but also improve it a bit.Here is my plan:Install 12V LED stripe in the cave to illuminate the statue.Install new 12V water pump in small water reservoir and connect it to the fountain.Turn LEDs automatically at night and fountain when sun is up.Power it all with 50W solar panel and 12V LiFePO battery.To get it all connected I've designed a two-layer PCB in Fritzing, that got Arduino onboard and should:Power LEDs when photoresistor will detect darkness.Power water pump when photoresistor will detect light, but only if there is water in reservoir.I'm not an expert, so I would like to know what do you think about my design. Does it have any fatal flaws?Here is the design:

author: kjr18
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2021, 02:42:44 pm
content: I think you don't need diode at led output, and diode at pump output should be across output pins, to protect switching mosfet from voltage spikes.

author: Skipperro
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 07, 2021, 02:56:09 pm
content: Thanks, sounds reasonable, I'll modify the design with those changes.
PCB from 1970s TV, serperate PCBs like block diagram fun, CURRENT Q ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: lordvader88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2017, 07:44:56 pm
content: I scracpped an old Zenith 1970schorma deluxe II, TV and saved 2 or 3 seperate PCBs that where nicely layed out like a block diagram.However the TV was busted and I only had time to scrape it so.Anyways I have 1 PCB with bus interface (what a minute ? IDR any bus interface slots like modern PCIe slots on that TV??? but I guess so? IThats the only old school thing I scrapped lately)Anyways I have 1 PCB with bus interface with 2 1970s 16pin DIPs on it I think for , IDRIt has 2 real nice RF transformers with a capacitor built in type, (I assume)I think the ICs ran of regulated 27V (that could be way wrong) but I'm pretty sure I which trace is Vs and gnd, and I well power it up with 9V and put it in series with an simple diode/LED resistor current source of say 10mAI just want to hook it up to my Oscope and see what the RF Trans are doingJust mapping out the PCB, no picture atm camera needs batt.), but its nice a simple and mainly cermaic Caps,2 ICs, 2 tuned circuits, I/O on a plug in board
PCB Front Panel Design Software - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: DSkilton
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 01, 2019, 12:44:11 pm
content: I would like to design a series of front panels using PCB's. I was going to use ALLPCB.COM as they seem to offer aluminium PCB'sMy question is what software would be easiest to use when the design is only for a front panel?I can use Windows or Linux.

author: JuanGg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2019, 02:04:36 pm
content: Even if it is only a front panel, you'll need a pcb design tool so that you can export gerbers in order to have your boards manufactured.The free version of Eagle or KiCad would do, so would many others. Figuring out how to put text/lines on the silkscreen shouldn't be too difficult and there are tutorials online. Remember to print it out on paper before sending it out!Juan

author: jhpadjustable
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2019, 02:52:21 pm
content: I've not tried it, but if you draw in Inkscape, there's an extension,svg2shenzhen, which exports Inkscape layers to KiCAD pcb files, which you can load, optionally modify, and plot in pcbnew in the usual fashion.
PCB Layout for Shunt Resistor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: john21443
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2018, 11:44:21 pm
content: Hello,I am layout out PCB for device that includes power sensing. I am using this resistor for R1:https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/418/NG_DS_1773449-3_F-1140363.pdf. Specifically, the one in the 2512 package.This is not a 4 wire package. Please take a look at the attached pcb screen shot and provide any feedback you have on how I laid out the traces. Sizing of the main feeds were from kicad pcb calculator with expected max 6A current.Thanks,John

author: german77
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2018, 01:38:05 am
content: Looks fine to me. But the traces are very close to the other terminal of the resistor R2 and R3 for my commodity. Turning them 90° should leave better clearance for the traces

author: john21443
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2018, 11:07:57 am
content: Thanks for the feedback.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2018, 11:48:22 am
content: There you go, an appnote on it.It all depends on how much accuracy you need.http://www.analog.com/en/analog-dialogue/articles/optimize-high-current-sensing-accuracy.html

author: john21443
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2018, 11:55:21 am
content: Thanks! I think I ran across that a while ago and completely forgot about it.
pcb lifted traces - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: manubali
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2018, 04:21:07 am
content: so, i was repairing smps and there was a big trace for power diode that my iron was unable to heat, so stupidly i took hot air gun and started heating it, and the trace got some bubbles on it. so my question is that will it work fine or should i scrape the solder mask and tin the whole trace with solder?

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2018, 07:18:03 am
content: If the FR-4 bubbled, it may have gotten hot enough to char. And this can make the board conductive. If you have high voltage on there, the board can conduct and arc and char more, and you get a runaway problem that ends in blown fuse, at best, somewhere down the road.I have never seen soldermask bubble, so I assume your board substrate may have been damaged.If you scrape off the mask and there's no brown or dark spots in the FR-4 next to the traces, it is probably fine. I'd tin it to prevent oxidation and call it good. The worst of the heat damage will be on the surface, not underneath. If charred, then what he said. This is just my opinion, not any kind of certifiable repair standard.

author: wasyoungonce
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2018, 10:28:18 pm
content: Might be better with a jumper link wire "oversized" a little. If the trace is lifted and its a high current trace, I'd be a little worried about flexure of it from current and heat and cooling.Use a jumper wire (I use insulated wire trimmed at ends for solder joins), glue it too the PCB. We used TakPack but hell 5min araldyte is ok.For a burnt PCB to conduct it has to be quite burnt. I've seen one on a pool controller PSU badly burnt conducting. It looked quite carbonised yet I didn't consider it an issue! Until I noticed the area heated due to this carbon resistance and I did ohms checks on it when off...wow I was surprised.FWIW

author: manubali
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2018, 10:50:31 am
content: Quote from: KL27x on May 18, 2018, 07:18:03 amits not that bad, have just 2 bubbles underneath the trace and trace itself is around 8 mm wide.i will try to remove it and add jumper wires to it
PCB manufacturer "should we ignore below stack-up of 2 layers." - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jackster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2017, 12:11:43 pm
content: From what I understand the "stack-up" is the layers of the FR4, copper, resist etcI placed an order with my PCB manufacturer and they sent this;Asking, " should we ignore below stack-up of 2 layers.".What does this mean?ThanksJack,

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2017, 07:22:58 pm
content: I think they are asking if you are serious about those specs, or they can just do whatever they normally do for 1.6mm PCBs.But better clarify with them.
PCB manufacturers how they work - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Yaro
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2015, 10:09:37 am
content: Hi all,I'm interested in PCB manufacturers and prototype manufacturing. In particular I'm interested in Europe what are lowest prices I can find(for 1pcs and not 10pcs stocks).Also, assembly of the pcb include particular components like ICs, sensors and so on? And how this work, should I send them components or they will contact their supplier?For china pcb manufacturing, since they usually copy projects and replicate them, there is valid china pcb manufacturers?

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2015, 10:22:03 am
content: Quote from: Yaro on March 10, 2015, 10:09:37 amThat all depends on the individual supplier. You will have to do the hard work and check them individually. Sorry.

author: katzohki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2015, 05:24:45 pm
content: You can try this out to find a suitable supplier for your project:http://pcbshopper.com/I've used Seeed Studio and have been happy with their work.

author: jc101
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2015, 08:14:05 pm
content: If you are in Europe then givewww.eurocircuits.coma try, they are not on pcbshopper and have a prototype service for some small quantities.

author: rea5245
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2015, 01:27:18 am
content: Quote from: tggzzz on March 10, 2015, 10:22:03 amIt's not hard work.PCBShopper.comis a price comparison site: enter your PCB's specs and it'll show you prices and shipping times from over 20 different PCB manufacturers.Alas, it doesn't do price comparisons for PCB assembly, just PCB fabrication. There are a lot of variables involved with assembly, and very few manufacturers have online quotes for assembly - you need to contact their salespeople to get a price.- Bob

author: rea5245
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2015, 02:15:09 pm
content: Quote from: jc101 on March 10, 2015, 08:14:05 pmEurocircuits is now back onPCBShopper.com. I had been having some technical issues with their web site, but I was able to work with them to straighten it out.Currently, PCBShopper includes two European manufacturers: Eurocircuits and PCB-POOL. Considering that 45% of my visitors are from Europe, I often wonder if there would be interest in seeing more European manufacturers in my price comparison list. The minimum requirement for a manufacturer to be included is that they provide an on-line quote form that the PCBShopper server can send queries to. Not requiring a login is a plus, and providing shipping costs and delivery times without requiring an Add to Cart (let alone a credit card) is a big plus.- Bob