Hmm, only a slight layer shift lol - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 08:11:45 am
content: While I've done PETG test prints in the past, yesterday I kicked off my first proper printMy first proper print on my new SKR 1.4 Turbo on my CR10 v2Just got up, and after 17 hrs came down to see attached pic.Just loaded the gcode into cura and it looks fine see attachedAny suggestions please?I also notice (cant see in pic) that it warped slightly at the bottom left, I had the bed at only 70?Thanks

author: Microdoser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 09:05:39 am
content: Layer shifts (AFAIK) are generally caused by a printing speed that is too high leading to the drive motor slipping. Lower the speed you are trying to print at, and they should go away.I have my bed at 75 for PETG and my nozzle at 243, and I also spray the bed with hair spray (Insette)

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 10:09:38 am
content: Thanks, I did a temp tower, 230 gave the best, the higher I went, the more stringing appeared.Someone on a cr10 facebook group asked if I had zhop turned on, I didn't.I will watch the vids you posted in my other thread (that was with a different main board) and try again.I presumed (possibly wrongly) that if it's hot enough that the material sticks to the bed, that's all I'm after? (will google it). One thing that currently works very well on my V2 is the Creality bed. At 50, PLA sticks like glue, wont budge at all, let the bed cool down and there's virtually zero resistance, prints just fall away, at 70, the small temp tower takes a lot to remove before it's cooled down, will try increasing a bit (after reading up on this) and will see.Thanks again

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 11:56:49 am
content: Hmm, just printing another temp tower and twice while printing, the bltouch deployed it's self (out and straight back in, but long enough to catch on a large print

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 01:13:01 pm
content: Quote from: HobGoblyn on August 15, 2021, 11:56:49 amReprinted with video of entire print, didn't do it once

author: Spuddevans
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 03:21:09 pm
content: A few years ago I started to have really strange layer shifting, usually starting about 10-15 mins into a print, but sometimes would be longer. Spent ages trying to figure it out, trying slower and slower print speeds, upping the drive current, until finally I happened to be next to the printer when it skipped.Turns out that the "umbilical" cord that links to the heated bed was sometimes catching on the lower framework of the printer, causing the printer to lose a random amount of steps. Solution was to suspend the "umbilical" from the upper part of the printer frame, and no problems since.Tim

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 05:36:40 pm
content: I’m retrying with a different profile and z hop enabled.It’s been going 3 hrs 24 mins when I just heard the bltouch deploy again for a split second, very weird

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 07:34:40 pm
content: Loose wiring somewhere, or noise induced.https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/lul6vc/bltouch_randomly_deploying_during_print/https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3Pro/comments/luo1ni/bltouch_probe_deploys_mid_print/

author: Microdoser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2021, 12:09:33 am
content: Quote from: HobGoblyn on August 15, 2021, 05:36:40 pmHow do you get your Gcode into your printer? Do you use the SD card, or do you use something like Octoprint?Just thinking that if you do use Octoprint, your Pi might be suffering undervoltage or similar.It does seem more likely though that, as thm_w says, a loose wire could be the culprit

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 16, 2021, 07:04:04 am
content: While I do use Octoprint sometimes, printing with SDCard.It’s probably a loose wire, will recrimp them when prints finished (was going to tidy up wiring when new case had finished printing, still on printing the first half)17 hrs and still going (love tempting fate lol) turned it 90degrees before slicing

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 16, 2021, 06:31:09 pm
content: 27 hrs and it was fine, 28 hrs and a slight layer shift grrrwarped slightly, can hear nozzle touching

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 17, 2021, 10:18:32 am
content: Going to have to rethink this completely, as you can see by the attached pic, all 4 corners warped.As usual the more youtube vids I watch the more conflicting info I getSome say the heated bed stops the bottom layer warping, others say that due to the warm bed, it's easier for later layers to pull it up.Think I'll try playing with Curas anti warp addon. problem with this print is it takes up almost the entire length of the bed, so a brim wont work.

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 17, 2021, 02:18:28 pm
content: Too close to edge for a brim, been playing with a Cura plugin called TabAntiWarping.Lets see if it warps this time lol

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2021, 10:54:57 pm
content: That is a huge brim, should be good enough.If the bed is not hot at all, then it likely won't stick, unless you apply gluestick/hairspray/etc. Which should also reduce the need for brim.If the bed is too hot, it can lift off and warp. I've continued to increase the bed temp thinking it will help when it was clearly doing the opposite.. its not something immediately obvious.https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/3d-prints-warping-why-it-happens-and-how-to-prevent-it

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 18, 2021, 08:55:33 am
content: ThanksTrouble is, watch a load of different youtube prints on warping, some say it needs to be hotter, others say what you have said.I just set my bed at 70 left for a few mins and used a infrared thermometer,middle (and most of the bed) measures 71cwhere the back left corner of the print will be, 65cwhere back right corner will be, 61cwhere front left corner will be, 67cwhere front right corner will be. 65cFilament says no glue needed if above 70, if I out bed to 80c, all areas of the print are at least 70 (73c was coolest)Will kick off this print tonight or tomorrow. need to find wiring fault in BLtouch first as randomly deploys in print

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2021, 09:27:04 pm
content: Yeah thermometer is the best method, set temperature for me is far off (and there is no Marlin offset setting).PETG recommended temp is 80C, so I think you can go a bit hotter if you want to try.

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 19, 2021, 05:50:54 pm
content: New print started, lets see how this does, rewired bltouch, rewired SKR1.4 crimping all cables properly etc temporarily using earlier failed print to mount it on

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 21, 2021, 08:49:56 am
content: It's getting weirder and more frustrating grrrrrI came down this morning, and at first glance it looked fine, had risen just a tiny bit on a couple of the corners and print looked complete.The bodged brim pulled a bit of the bottom away (no biggie, still annoying)But carefully getting it off the bed, one side snapped , will superglue it down (if the rest is ok) but I can feel it straining when I close it, see attached picThe weird part is the bottom, if you look at the last pic, you can see where the hex holes are all about 1 cm off where the actual holes are. Hopefully the inside holes are correct and I will work around it.

author: Microdoser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2021, 10:59:55 am
content: Have you tried using a different roll of filament?Maybe that particular roll has something wrong about it?Personally, I have tried PETG and went back to PLA, unless there is a very good need for the higher temperature or UV resist characteristics. PLA is stronger than PETG at lower temps too.

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 21, 2021, 11:21:38 am
content: Yep, tried two different makes.I'm printing this (not including lcd screen as already have a bracket)https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4347673I presumed he chose PETG for a reason, not sure how hot power supply gets though

author: Microdoser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2021, 06:25:31 pm
content: Quote from: HobGoblyn on August 21, 2021, 11:21:38 amIf those are a couple of decent sized cooling fans on the top, I really don't think it will get too hot for PLA. If it does then you have other, more serious, issues. PLA is quite strong until about 60C.If it were me I'd give PLA a go, just to get a good print even if I needed to change it later.I have a project where I considered the benefits of PETG vs PLA and the only benefits are that PETG suffers less UV colour degradation over time (like 1 year), and keeps its shape better between 60-80C (but is no good over that). On the down side, it is much, much harder to print with, you get a sight more stringing, and often it warps, meaning a higher percentage of failed prints.Maybe he designed the box using PETG in case someone wanted to use it in a heated enclosure?

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2021, 11:10:00 am
content: I've had later shifts on really hot days when the stepper drivers overheat and miss steps.Do your motors have heat sinks and airflow?I superglued RAM heat sinks on my motor drivers and upgraded the fan (and run the aircon in the room) and haven't had a problem since.

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 22, 2021, 02:55:07 pm
content: Yes, all have heat sinks, fan going over them.I think it's simply me never having used PETG before and printing so close to the edge.Will have another play later as I have the filament, but if I cant get good results, will doo it in PLA

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 24, 2021, 10:42:10 am
content: I decided to print with PLA, replaced bowden tube and nozzle bedfore I started.then the extruder kept slipping. replaced the cog, same thing.took out bowden tube (from hotend) and nozzle, totally clear.Extruded fine through bowden tube while not in hot end no matter how fast I tried(note: have changed bowden a few times in the past, followed the usual guides, never had a problem before so didn't think it was this)As a last resort I tried taking the hot end temperature, was hard to do in place getting very low readings. so removed the extruder, put nozzle back in and turned back on, heated to 200As you can see from the 3 pics, really low temps being recorded, did a PID tune, the same, photos are after a PID tuneDebating whether to replace thermistor, or go the whole way and replace with something like the Hermea Direct Drive kit lol

author: Bassman59
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2021, 04:00:41 pm
content: Quote from: TERRA Operative on August 22, 2021, 11:10:00 amI need to add heat sinks to my printer's (Creality 3 Pro) motors ... I was running into issues last month when outside temperatures were excessive (46ºC!) and the room in which the printer lived was easily over 37ºC ... and the motors were HOT. Unfortunately there's no air conditioning in the printer room.I was getting strange top-layer problems, as in the top layer wasn't filling in properly. This was with the same design that I've successfully printed a couple dozen times previously. I assume it's an extrusion problem as the extruder motor is really hot.One thing about the "all metal extruder" is that it does a fabulous job of transferring the motor heat right to the filament as it passes through the extruder.What glue did you use to hold the fan/heatsinks onto the motors?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2021, 08:51:53 pm
content: Its not reliable to measure temperature of aluminum like that.You'll need to make the surface emissivity higher, normally put black tape or similar, but the high temp will melt it. Also the IR gun needs to be much closer. If you look at the instructions of the gun it will give you a ratio or angle.https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/temperature/how-to-get-great-results-with-an-infrared-thermometer

author: Bassman59
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2021, 09:51:30 pm
content: Quote from: thm_w on August 24, 2021, 08:51:53 pmI use kapton tape to secure a thermocouple bead to whatever and use my Fluke 179 meter to monitor the temperature.

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 25, 2021, 07:23:37 am
content: Quote from: thm_w on August 24, 2021, 08:51:53 pmThanks, I did test much closer and at different angles, didn’t make much difference (and keeping it in any one place, was jumping around all over the place). I took the pics further away so I could get the laser dot in the pic.Just read the link, very useful info.I think Bassman59’s idea is excellent and will give it a go later today.