hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
So I bought a Mega-Crapton of Copper "Sheets"... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Boone
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 12:47:38 am
content: Hey all. Long story short - I love estate and yard sales and went to one last week in the Seattle area. I was pumped to pick up 300 thin sheets of what I thought was 18 inch by 24 inch copper. I was hoping to use them around the house for backsplash, counter top, artsy-fartsy, etc... I pulled one sheet out of the boxes, cut a small piece out with some heavy scissors and started messing with it to see how easy it was going to be to work with. I got out the torch and was going to try some heat coloring and POOF! All kinds of crazy smoke and the middle, between two thin layers of copper, burned to hell... Guess they aren't copper throughout, right?I'm bummed, but after searching the internet for some of the terms used on the box label, etc I think I have copper PCB? Is this something that people still use or should I just take them to the scrap yard? The invoice indicates it was made in 1993, so not sure if tech has changed a lot since then? Here are some pics below.Thanks in advance for any insight you might be able to provide,Boone

author: chickenHeadKnob
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 01:20:08 am
content: Yes, as you surmised you have double sided PCB material, the core is a kind of epoxy laminate (FR-4) which will burn.There are surplus sellers like dipmicro or electronic goldmine or BG micro that sell cut pieces to hobbyists who then etch circuits on these so it is valuable. Check those sites for a price range.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 02:17:15 am
content: Welcome to the forum.Advertise it here, there's sure to be some takers:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/Thickness? 0080 is that 8 thou?

author: Boone
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 02:42:13 am
content: Thank you both for the info. Yeah, it's thin (I cut it with heavy scissors). I remember someone at the sale saying he frequented Boeing surplus sales, so I guess it could have come from there?Boone
So I purchased a 4145B semiconductor parameter analyzer.... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: xpr2_2
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 15, 2024, 07:02:20 pm
content: As subject above I purchased it as I needed a curve tracing function in the device for testing analog transistors and 8can op-amps , but the problem is i have no idea how to use it!it was the cheapest and closest tool i could find at short notice I'm wondering if there is any training i can get on one of these beasts!

author: Roehrenonkel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2024, 08:17:44 pm
content: Hi,nice buy.What do you have?Fixture? Cables? Boot-disk?Post a picture.Good luck

author: Wallace Gasiewicz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2024, 09:06:58 pm
content: Artek has the manuals. They have better scans than anyone else I have found.http://artekmanuals.com/manuals/hp-manuals/

author: xpr2_2
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 16, 2024, 09:08:42 am
content: Quote from: Wallace Gasiewicz on December 15, 2024, 09:06:58 pmlooks like they have schema's for the 4145B which is handy to have, i may buy it for future reference incase it dies on me for whatever reason.

author: xpr2_2
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 16, 2024, 09:12:02 am
content: Quote from: Roehrenonkel on December 15, 2024, 08:17:44 pmyes it came with the test fixture bundle with wires, and test plates, it also had the LCD upgrade done on it so no CRT horror stories that i had researched on in the mean time before i collected it. it still has the flopp disc drive inside it and a box full of floppy's with various version's of the software within. i am considering purchasing the alterative drive method so i can do away with the floppy drive.
So I took apart a Panabrator... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: stgauss
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 18, 2023, 03:47:35 am
content: Long story short, cleaning out the attic I found a Panabrator VII wand made in the 80's. Aside from a shoddy wiring fix, it seemed to have a random fault where it would die after 10 or so seconds of operation. Turning it off an on made it work again, but only for another 10-15 seconds. But before tossing it, I decided to tear it down. I've seen several YT channels tear down similar artifacts, but they were all more modern made in china things so it sparked my curiosity to see one that was 30-odd years old.What I found inside has me a bit confused, thought I'd post it here to see if someone can explain what I'm looking at. From what I managed to gather this thing's operating at full mains voltage all the way to the motor. I was getting 110VAC on the output lines (left side) that go to the motor. And the speed control wheel worked, but the voltage on output didn't change. Unfortunately a few seconds later I must have F'd the meter leads and I managed to blow up Q2, and the R's next to the ZNR varistor... so that's pretty much all the operating info I got. Nice fireworks show tho.From what I'm guessing, the right side is some kind of AC/DC power supply. That square "TJ8A" (part datasheet doesn't show up anywhere) is probably a rectifier chip, the ZNR (K271U) is for overvoltage protection (which probably saved my butt when I messed up the meter leads), and under the 47uF cap is a hidden transistor which I guess is part of the DC power supply.DC probably feeds the MN4011B chip, from the datasheet that's a NAND gate array. Q2 and Q3 probably work with the speed control wheel, one is NPN the other is PNP. And at the end is a K963 MOSFET and a diode that feeds into the output. And I guess the 902J black part is some kind of coil to control interference.So, all together, what does it do? Why is there a NAND chip in there? My best guess, seeing that most of the parts are rated for 270V and that I found 110V on the output lines, is that this thing is 110VAC all the way, and there's some kind of a variable frequency drive in there, and the motor speed is controlled via frequency at the output?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2023, 05:16:45 am
content: What type of motor does it have? Universal (wound field) or permanent magnet brushed DC? I doubt they'd use an induction/brushless motor in something like this.It could be rectified DC with PWM, or phase-angle control with an AC motor.Note that the "6N.2" and "J8.A" are likely Japanese-era date codes.
So I'm off the breadboard for the first time! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2018, 09:12:04 pm
content: First circuit that migrated from the breadboard to a PCB. An ATTiny85 WS2811 board. Let me know if the image doesn't show up.I know there are no decoupling caps or anything, but it work!1xATTiny851xL78L05 regulator (LEDs are 12V)DC barrel socket.I need to put the LEDs in there resting place (bottom of the monitor) and maybe a switch to cycle modes, then pop the chip to reprogam it and I have a monitor back light/mood light.I found creating links between pads take practice. I cheated and used component legs bent over and soldered them or used breadboard links. I have a lot of practice needed to make it neat.

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2018, 09:19:14 pm
content: How about a close up of the board?

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2018, 09:47:23 pm
content: I left room for caps. I can put a 1uF across the power pins and ... probably a 100nF across the output of the regulator. Need to leave room for a +5V for a switch feed.Got me to thinking though. I would be taking the chip out into a breadboard. Maybe I should use the other half of the board I sawed off for a DIL socket ISP programmer for the chip.The final idea is to put it inside shrink wrap to tidy it up.The 12V wall wort is coping. It's rated to 0.5Amps and I haven't see these LEDs doing the FastLED demo reel pulling more than 250mA (based on my bench PSU). That would change on full white, full bright though. I'll avoid that.Unfortunately the largest shrink wrap I have is just too narrowTime to hit ebay.
so6 -- Name That Part - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2014, 03:46:51 am
content: I didn't even know I had bought these until I got home. They were in a bag of switches I bought. Also in the bag was what looks like a sewing machine foot. I don't know if the foot is relevant or not.

author: Rudane
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2014, 04:16:02 am
content: Surface mount inductors? Minicircuits:http://www.minicircuits.com/pdfs/ADT1.5-1.pdf

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2014, 04:32:50 am
content: Thanks, I search for mcl b 724, so6 724, so-6 724, mcl b 724 s06, but I did not try adt1.5-1! My part search skills are crudimentary.

author: Rudane
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2014, 05:12:06 am
content: Don't feel so bad, I recognized the packaging because I've used the ADCH-80.

author: GiskardReventlov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2014, 03:57:16 am
content: I don't feel bad since I continue to learn. If that stops maybe I'd feel bad.But today I found a HELA-10 in the bag so it looks like from the schematic in the hela-10 datasheet that I might be able to do "something", since the schematic specifies 2 adt1.5-1. What that "something" is I have no idea at all.Oh and of course I knew right where to go to find the hela-10 datasheet.
soar scope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fred
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 06, 2013, 01:44:59 am
content: can any one find the service manual for the soar 6110 scopethank you

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 06, 2013, 08:53:11 pm
content: Never known this make, or name ?... have you the manufacturers name.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2013, 08:57:58 pm
content: Somehow I doubt there is one. You might be on your own with this repair.
Socketing SOJ-36 devices - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: drinkinglizard
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 10, 2025, 10:23:41 pm
content: Some background, feel free to skip to my actual questionI'm a retro-computing enthusiast and am very comfortable with solderless breadboarding and DIP devices. However, when it comes to SMD tech I'm a complete noob.I've recently started dabbling with getting custom PCB's created and using SMD, rather than through-hole, however for the more expensive components I've been using PLCC and SOJ based devices as their footprints are much smaller than DIP and yet they are still socketable -- before anyone says it: I know, they're likely to disappear from manufacturers offerings even before DIP does, but some of these devices are not cheap and are sometimes hard to source, so being able to pull a device out of a socket and reuse it in a different project is important to me.I've managed to hoard a bunch of surface-mount PLCC and SOJ sockets for use in my projects, however I've not been able to find a 36-pin socket anywhere. I get the impression that perhaps such a thing has never existed.So, my question is: how does one socket a SOJ-36 device? Can you safely place one inside a 40-pin SOJ socket and it will hold in place?? Or is there no way to do this?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2025, 12:55:41 am
content: Yes, you can put a 36-pin SOJ into a 40-pin socket.
Soft latch power switch confusion  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: HumbleBumble
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 19, 2016, 08:56:39 pm
content: Hello there! I want to implement a soft latch switch in a test environment as an easy way to power up and power down a pcb under test. Being as it is 12v supplied by test clip and sometimes sparks come off when removing it! Reading up on LC voltage spikes, I am afraid this is causing some boards to not pass test after being shipped out and tested!Would Dave's video on softlatch switch meet these requirements and if not does anybody know of a circuit to soft latch and reduce LC voltage spikes? Thanks!
Soft Latch Power Switch Problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: arloomis
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 15, 2017, 07:56:08 pm
content: Hello,I am new to electronics, and I have tried to implement Dave's soft latch power switch from #262 into my circuit. I am trying to switch power from a single cell LiPo battery into a boost converter to 5.2V. When I power the circuit, power flows into the boost converter and outputs 5.2V. When I press the switch, power drops, then almost immediately jumps back to 5.2V. I have included my schematic below (the right half is the switch and boost converter, the stuff on the left is for charging and an ADC). I believe the problem is when the circuit is first turned on, the inductor L2 builds up the magnetic field, and when the button is pressed (shorting the base of U5), the power drops, but as the magnetic field of the inductor collapses, current flows back through R9 and into the base of U5, switching the mosfet U4 back on. If I place a diode between R11 and L2, will this problem be solved? I have a loose understanding of inductors, so my analysis could be completely wrong.
Soft latch switch with different on off time presses - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Yukisidepaw
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 26, 2021, 10:34:07 pm
content: Hi all,I’m trying to create one of my first ‘simple’ circuits. And could use some help thinking in the correct direction.I have a gps device that is powered from a 12v motorbike battery, however even in deepsleep it uses around 4mA which would drain my battery in a matter of weeks when the bike is not being used. The device has its own battery and I can configure it to pull a relay line for a period of time (1 sec) to wake up a external battery when it is drained (without external power only 0.6mA on the interal battery is used in deepsleep). And I can also pull the same relay for a different amount of time (eg 10sec) to shutdown the external battery (when its done charging).So I want to make a basic power switch board, that would allow power to the gps device after it gets the wake up, and shuts it off when getting the other signal.I was thinking that the Soft Latching Power Switch video would be great start, only that just toggles the power, and I would have no control if it goes on or off, other than hoping I was is the correct state. Is that circuit modifiable to have the on / off trigger based on the time the ‘button’ is pressed. Or would i need a completely different direction for it, and what would one call it then.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2021, 10:43:22 pm
content: I would use a microcontroller that has a microamp deep-sleep mode (which is pretty much any modern one).The MCU is powered all the time but only consumes microamps. It then turns on/off the GPS device via a (P-channel) MOSFET when the right button presses are made or on a periodic basis or when certain conditions occur. Simple circuit and easy to customize to whatever you want it to do.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2021, 09:54:20 am
content: I would suggest an automotive high side driver rather a naked P-channel MOSFET. STM, Infineon et al. churn them out like water and they are inexpensive when you consider all that they do.

author: Yukisidepaw
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 10, 2021, 01:43:46 pm
content: Thanks for the response, I ended up creating a simple circuit for this, it uses a PIC10F200 that is only powered when the 'relay line' is closed, and then waits for 0.5 sec before triggering the output on, and after 10 sec it triggers the output off. I kinda rushed it out, because I was excited to get something manufacturer, and did realise i forgot some stuff (for instance reverse polarity protection, no mounting holes, no positive marking on the connector, only bottomlayer is a ground plane / floodfilled).I hope someone can give me a bit of feedback on this.
Soft Latching Power Circuit - Help? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kuma133
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 27, 2020, 06:00:33 am
content: Hello,First, I will apologize. I'm looking for a solution to a problem. I've watched some excellent youtube videos on the topic. But they seem aimed at people who've got the chops to evaluate the circuits.Application: 3D Printer, Power Switch for Power Supply.Input: 115V ACPower Supply: Meanwell LRS-350-24Output: 24V DC Single Tap to XT-60 connector that (currently) powers the entire printer.Background: I plan to heavily modify the printer. While I know what I'm doing with printers, I am a bit of a noob in the electronics. I know some basics. But not enough to even dream of pulling this small part off safely or reliably.I watched this video:Though it was interesting and pretty well explained, I have no idea if this circuit can be safely used for switching AC. Let alone whether this is a practical or reliable solution for my needs. I've been looking at other videos and realizing that basic problem of not understanding enough carries on. At least I know when I'm over my head though right?Goal: Ulincos Momentary Push Button Switch U19C3B (rated for only 5A) to toggle on and off the 115V AC.ulincos.com/product.php?id=74The switch was chosen to visually match a control knob with an LED lit ring:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32972382466.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.4.12546923bcoTVyFuture: I may be using some buck converters on the unused taps of the supply to provide 5V and 12V for various additional components (LED lighting, power to a raspberry pi running octoprint, etc.) I don't know if that's relevant. But in case it is, I didn't exclude it.For all I know, there's a ready-made solution that I can use (but haven't found thus far.) I don't need to reinvent wheels, so a pointer in such direction is a perfectly valid reply.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2020, 02:44:45 pm
content: Quote from: kuma133 on March 27, 2020, 06:00:33 amI suggest you watch the video again and ask specific questions about how the circuit works. If you understood the circuit, you wouldn't have asked this question, because the answer would be obvious: no.The circuit could be used to control a relay, which switches AC, but it would need a DC voltage which is permanently on.It can be modified to switch the 24VDC on the output of the power supply.

author: TerminalJack505
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2020, 07:48:38 pm
content: Since you're a noob, the easiest and safest way to go about it is to grab something like thisbreakout boardfrom Adafruit and hack it so that you can wire-in your switch. Have the output control a relay (and your switch's LED.) (Don't forget to use a flyback diode on the relay.) Power all of this with a 12VDC power adapter which you likely have handy.
Soft Latching Power Switch Help #262 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: will900
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 28, 2016, 06:06:59 pm
content: Hi all, I posted this question as a response to an earlier post but not sure if that buries it so thought I'd post as a new topic, I hope that's not bad forum etiquette.I'm trying to make the soft latching circuit from project #262, I've attached an image.I've had to replace the IRF9110 with a (hopefully equivalent) MOSFET, I've used an IRF9160 (datasheet attached) as from googleing this is the replacement for the IRF9110.What I can't understand about the circuit is why it would turn on when power is supplied first. I would have thought that as the gate is tied high at first it would be off then when the switch is pressed and the gate of the left transistor is brought high and it makes a connection to ground it would switch the MOSFET on and latch?The problem I am having is that when I first apply power to the circuit the output is off, when I press the button it switches on and latches, then that's it, it stays latched on even when the button is pressed. I have to make a direct connection to ground, not through the transistor to turn it off.The only difference between my circuit and the one in the video is that I'm using the IRF9160, my power source is 4x 1.5V AAA batteries, I used two initially but this did nothing.Any help would be very much appreciated.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2016, 12:31:37 pm
content: Someone did respond to your other post and I can't see the image you say you've attached, perhaps you forgot?https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/understanding-values-chosen-for-eevblog-262-world's-soft-latching-switch/msg1013588/#msg1013588If it's assembled correctly, ut should be off when power is first applied. Could it be that there's a capacitor on the circuit connected to it which is remaining charged, cause it to turn on after the power is disconnected and reconnected?

author: fubar.gr
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2016, 01:01:24 pm
content: Check your MOSFET. They can be easily damaged by ESD. Try swapping it with a new one.I made a similar circuit the other day on a breadboard.I noticed something weird, when I pressed one of the pushbuttons, one of the LEDs would dimly turn on for the duration the button was pressed.That should be impossible. The button and the LED had nothing to do with each other. Yet, pressing the button did indeed generate a voltage at the LED's anode. I spent the next hour reviewing my schematic and the actual circuit, to no avail. The LED shouldn't come on.What tipped me off was the fact that the problem got worse over time and the LED would now light up brighter.The culprit was a p-type mosfet with a leaky gate. The gate was on the same node as the LED anode, so it was backfeeding the LED.I swapped the MOSFET with a new one and then everything was working as it should.
Soft Power-Latch Circuit (#262) - Surface Mount Problems - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ERudisill
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 03:18:42 pm
content: I recently found vlog #262 and decided to try and implement it on a 3V battery powered radio tag. However, it's not working. As in, it neither turns on when the battery is inserted, nor when the button is pressed. Since it is all SMD, I'm sure I've just selected some mismatched components. But due to my lack of EE skills (software dev by trade,) I'm not seeing the problem. Most of the components are 0402 because I'm size restricted. That's also why I opted for a dual transistor IC rather than two independent components. I've triple checked the footrprints and am fairly positive they are correct.The schematic is attached below. Is there something I'm missing? Does this look rational? Is there something I should be doing different for small SMD vs the pull-through components used in the video?Thanks for ANY assistance, including internet berating as long as it points me in a helpful direction to learn

author: katzohki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 07:56:39 pm
content: Get out your DMM (go buy one if you haven't got) and start checking that voltages are where you expect them. Also, try powering your device directly to make sure it's not that.0402 is just below the limit of what I could do without a microscope or some other magnification. They're so small, I would definitely take a close look for accidental bridges.Did you make a board yourself or something? How have you got these parts put together?

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 08:02:14 pm
content: i don't know your budget but you can use the MAX16054http://www.maximintegrated.com/en/products/power/supervisors-voltage-monitors-sequencers/MAX16054.html.

author: ERudisill
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 08:40:40 pm
content: Quote from: katzohki on June 04, 2014, 07:56:39 pmYes. We had the board printed, and we've got a guy in the office that is quite good at soldering under a microscope. There certainly does not seem to be any bridges, it all looks very clean. The 0R resister was a CYA move that I put in, just in case the circuit doesn't work - and when we bridge the pads there, the device powers up. So I'm fairly certain it is in my design. Thanks!Quote from: exapod on June 04, 2014, 08:02:14 pmThanks! I forgot to mention in my OP that if anyone has an alternative to the circuit, I'd be willing to change designs. At first glance, this looks really nice. I'll dig into it a bit (price, size, etc.) and see if it will work for the application.
Soft push button using latching switch  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jiko
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 08, 2019, 01:33:05 am
content: Hi,I am planning to convert my wall switches to push buttons so I can use them in my smart-home system. I came across to EEVblog #262 - World's Simplest Soft Latching Power Switch Circuit, but I need to do the opposite. Is there a schematicthat uses passive only componentsto convert a simple SPDT to a momentary push button?Thank you for any input.Edit: Every time the switch changes position an active high pulse of 3V and duration ~500 ms should be fired.

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2019, 09:09:34 am
content: You need to describe how you want this to work, e.g. do you want a pulse of fixed duration every time the switch position is change changed, a pulse when moved to one position but not the other, do you want active low or active high pulse, what voltage etc..

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2019, 10:26:26 am
content: Why restrict yourself to passives only? That rules out a whole bunch of solutions that may be beneficial.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2019, 01:56:12 am
content: Sounds like a homework assignment.

author: jiko
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 09, 2019, 02:14:32 am
content: Quote from: mikerj on July 08, 2019, 09:09:34 amHi mikerj,Thank you for your reply. Every time the switch changes position an active high pulse of 3V and duration ~500 ms should be fired.Thanks

author: jiko
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 09, 2019, 02:15:36 am
content: You are right. Whatever solution that works.
Soft start and speed control for a AC motor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mike_mike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2020, 10:46:33 am
content: Hello, I just built the attached schematic and it is not working.I tried it with a 70W light bulb, before testing with the motor. It is not working with the light bulb. I verified each connection.Could you please help me to make this circuit work ? Or could you help me with another schematic, which is tested ?LE I tested the schematic again. The light bulb is always on.

author: JacobPilsen
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2020, 07:45:46 pm
content: Is there any signal on C2 ???Is there any signal on R4 ???
Software FeelTech FY6600  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Adrian_Arg.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2018, 04:54:10 pm
content: Hello, I just received my FeelTech FY6600, and the CD is not readable, and on the FeelTech website it only allows you to download manuals, anyone who has the CD well could upload it somewhere? Thank you

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 20, 2018, 10:05:39 pm
content: Welcome y bienvenido. I'm surprised none has replied yet. I do not own one of these (yet..) but there are several threads. You could start here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/feeltech-fy6600-60mhz-2-ch-vco-function-arbitrary-waveform-signal-generator/

author: Adrian_Arg.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2018, 10:22:22 pm
content: If I started with that link, but I did not find it, and in others the link is down.

author: DC1MC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2018, 10:51:02 pm
content: http://en.feeltech.net/index.php?case=archive&act=list&catid=6the link on top, google drive, you have all you need.Or here:https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3N_NW8vylrmQVNrbXVERnltSFkCheers,DC1MCPress Thanks

author: Adrian_Arg.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2018, 11:07:37 pm
content: many, thank you very much!!!
Software for making plots of fictional waveforms (not simulation/measurements) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TheUnnamedNewbie
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2017, 06:53:53 am
content: For reports, it is not uncommon that one might want to add plots of fictional waveforms to show the intended operation of a circuit or such (take for example the output of a integrator or a bridge rectifier). These are often idealized circuits and so just taking measurements or even simulations doesn't work. Do you guys have any suggestions for making plots like this? I can of course use a ideal simulation, but that is not always easy. I can also come up with the mathematical descriptions of the waveform and plug them into matlab (which is what I tend to do now).Do you guys know of any tools that make this even easier? Something that will allow me to just drag around waveforms or such, that I can perhaps export to something like inkscape to plug into my vector graphic schematics, etc...
Software to display waveforms - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: JonnyBoats
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2012, 10:17:15 pm
content: I am looking for some software, preferably free, that will graphically display simulated waveforms. A bonus would be if it could display a wave in both the time and frequency domains.What I am looking to do is help a student visualize things like what you get when you combine a sign wave with it's odd harmonics (a square wave) or modulate a carrier with a fixed audio frequency (AM modulation, a carrier with two sidebands).

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2012, 10:25:53 pm
content: (I don't know about free) but, like ViHart did here? (Jump to 8 minutes to see the wave forms.)It looks like she was using Audacity.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2012, 10:28:04 pm
content: Vi also showed plotting in Wolfram Alpha.

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2012, 10:35:05 pm
content: GNU Octave
Software to do Signal Integrity-Analyses of simple PCBs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: M_a-r_k-u_s
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 14, 2021, 09:16:40 am
content: Hi together,I'm new to this forum and also am pretty new to PCB design. I'm currently working through Bogatin's "Signal and Power Integrity - Simplified"-book. I would like to simulate some (more or less) trivial constellations with different tracks, transmission lines, planes for cros talk, GND-bounce. (for better understanding of the effects)Can you recommend me a software for this? I work in education, so price is mostly not a matter as we usually get trial or even full versions for free.Greetings,Markus

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2021, 09:57:36 am
content: Altium has a PDN plugin, I think it is subscription only. I believe Sisoft had something, that is now part of Matlab, ask the uni if they have it. Zuken and Pads also have it. basically start with the layout software your uni has, and ask for an evaluation of the extension. And I think Keysight had some PDN analyser.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2021, 12:22:00 am
content: MATLAB has a signal integrity toolkit and a free trialhttps://www.mathworks.com/products/signal-integrity.htmlThe commercial license costs a bunch of money. The Home license is OK ($149) but the Student license is better ($49).

author: M_a-r_k-u_s
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 15, 2021, 03:33:29 pm
content: Quote from: rstofer on October 15, 2021, 12:22:00 amHave you used it already? As I can use all Mathworks products for free I already installed it and will spend a few hours experimenting with it. The signal integrity toolbox is new, they also have a RF PCB toolbox now.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2021, 03:54:44 pm
content: Quote from: M_a-r_k-u_s on October 15, 2021, 03:33:29 pmNo, I haven't used it. Signal integrity isn't a topic of interest for me.I do like MATLAB for machine learning and general problem solving. I especially like using Simulink to simulate an analog computer solution to certain differential equations. Damped harmonic motion or predator-prey (Lotka-Volterra) problems are a lot of fun. The objective is to simulate the system using just integrators, summers and some form of scaling. It's easy to just lay down an integrator in the model and wire it up.MATLAB is a great tool! Alas, renewal time is a bit painful!
Software - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: M0BSW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 08:34:35 pm
content: Hi , Is there any software out there, that will let you design a circuit , and let you see if it works.

author: CarlG
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 08:40:27 pm
content: Do you mean a simulator like LTspice?

author: madshaman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 08:47:51 pm
content: +1 LTSpiceIt's fantastic, it's good, it's free; only complaint is the clunky UI but it's not really that bad when you get used to it.http://www.linear.com/designtools/software/If you haven't heard yet of the massive variety of circuit simulation software, imho, you can't go wrong starting with LTSpice, it'll give you everything you need. Now, you'll have to learn how to use it, I recommend a google search along the lines of "Spice software circuit simulator".

author: madshaman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 08:50:39 pm
content: On second thought, after scanning your posts etc. you've probably encountered Spice by now.

author: StevenB
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 08:59:41 pm
content: Are we being trolled? If not, you can't go wrong with LTSpice.

author: M0BSW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 09:39:43 pm
content: Quote from: StevenB on March 22, 2013, 08:59:41 pmno trolling, I'd forgotten about LT spice, thanks for the link

author: TerminalJack505
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2013, 09:47:00 pm
content: Don't forgetTINA-TI.
Solar charger current too low for 26AH battery  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dave_j_fan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2018, 06:01:07 am
content: Hi all ,I am using a charger shown herehttps://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81wr86k%2BUcL._SL1500_.jpgI have set float voltage at 14.7VI am building a project so emulating PV panel with DC SMPS 2AMP it gives 26Vi am feeding dc to solar panel in .Many hours passed the menu is showing 14.4V .A)DMM AS AMMETER TESTOut of suspicion i gave connected the DMM as amp meter in between battery and controller , set DMM in 10A menuit shows 0.285Amp pulses .B)TEST on small good batteryreduced voltage to 18V in DC in of controller ( DC source )tested charging by the contrller on 7AH 12v small battery to know if the issue with controllerit showed same it shows 0.285Amp pulses .DC source --> curent limiter > battery gives more than 700mAQ: why the charge controller pulses are so low, and cannt charge > 14.4 v

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2018, 08:24:12 am
content: How much current is your source capable of supplying, have you tested it to make sure that is not the issue.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2018, 10:16:04 am
content: 14.7V is much too high for a float voltage for 12V LA battery - it should be in the 13.6 - 13.8V range, depending on ambient temperature.For a cyclic charge you can go higher, maybe 14.5V, but trying to float it at 14.7V will just cause it to lose electrolyte as gaseous oxygen and hydrogen through the vents and dry out.

author: dave_j_fan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2018, 08:58:28 am
content: the cycle voltage 14.7VpSU can supply the currents , direct connect via diode shows near 1amp current going .is it that the solar controller defective
Solar Charger Woes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Mukrakiish
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2017, 01:25:02 pm
content: Newbie question here...I can't seem to figure out what the problem is.I built #2 in the diagram there since I didn't have a BC557 I replaced it with a 2N3906. For some reason, there is always a voltage getting back through the diode/transistor into the solar panel which subsequently discharges the battery pack. It charges just fine in the daylight but nothing stops the solar charger from draining the battery pack. This seems pretty simple but am I overlooking something obvious? I'm fairly sure since it's a PNP that I'm following the pinout correctly (EBC) with emitter being the top of the transistor in the schematic.Currently, I have the lights disconnected, just wanted to verify if the design would work, which it doesn't. Bah.

author: Mukrakiish
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2017, 01:41:18 pm
content: Wait...hang on.If there is no light connected, there will be insufficient voltage difference to change the transistor over from one state to the other, which would connected the solar panel to the battery with a voltage drop across the 470 resistor correct? Which would cause the battery to drain backwards through the panel instead of draining it into the LED's.The transistor wasn't supposed to ever put a "full hold" on the battery so much as just redirect the power continuously from one source to the other.Am I on the right track?
Solar current/voltage question.  Using an MPPT controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TT_Vert
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 12:20:18 am
content: Short circuit voltage is 21V and current is 4.95A and i have verified such. I'm just running one 100W panel for my shed right now to the EPEVER 40A MPPT. I know it's overkill, just learning the setup for now). I have an app i can use to monitor output of the panel to the MPPT. When the sun is in the same position sometimes I will see 15V/1A then a bit later 19V/1A, and then a few minutes later w/ no real changes I may see 20V/.75A or similar. I'm just curious how the output voltage/current is regulated or if the panel puts out what it puts out. I know the solar energy dictates this but does the MPPT have anything to do w/ this based on battery SOC? Just curious why the voltage can move so significantly from minute to minute as well as current.ThanksDave

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 12:31:40 pm
content: Quote from: TT_Vert on June 23, 2022, 12:20:18 amOpen circuit voltage may be 21v, short circuit voltage is 0v! You will see the panel voltage moving around a bit with an MPPT controller as it changes it's impedance to find the maximum power point.

author: TT_Vert
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 03:22:48 pm
content: Quote from: mikerj on June 23, 2022, 12:31:40 pmWow, what an amazing explanation. I appreciate you taking the time to write all of this!!
Solar inverter for offsetting mains outlet load? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sectokia
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2023, 10:55:27 am
content: I have a trailers with 1kW load that is moved around and often runs for 2-3 days from mains extension lead.I want to put up some solar on the trailers so that the load is offset by the solar generated. I don't want to have battery, and don't want any infeed, and it all needs to be self-contained in the trailer.So basically, I need an inverter that preferences DC but uses mains as required so that it always can output 1kW.The problem I am having is: I don't understand what solar inverter to buy. What kind of inverter is this called, is this something that even exists?Or I am simply overthinking this? If I just put a grid tie inverter and load in parallel on the extension lead, then put the Solars CT up stream of both (on the incoming live) and set it to never export, it should work fine?

author: sectokia
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2023, 12:27:39 pm
content: I figured out that these are called "grid tie inverter with limiter" and are quite uncommon and not really an option given from most reputable suppliers as they are rather niche.

author: Ed.Kloonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2023, 01:05:22 pm
content: I know you don't want a battery, but consider a marine inverter/charger. Find one with a 'shore' power control so you can adjust your intake.Victron have them if you want bells and whistles. There are other brands.The problem I had with your OP was that if even if you do go with a grid-tie, the DC input is 600vdc or even higher often. You really cannot do that on a non-stationary structure, for obvious reasons.Hit up a solar system seller and get a quote for a system that suits your specific needs. Let us know how you go.
Solar inverter - what power source to use during repairing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jane
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2025, 09:13:57 am
content: I have a faulty solar inverter (Input 48V, Output about 5kW). I need to repair it so I need to take it away to my repair shop - no solar panels there.What a power supply should I use so that it will be possible to start repairing? ( I know about 50V but how many Amps?) Or any power supply brand recommended?

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2025, 09:28:06 am
content: A normal lab supply should be OK. At least for the start and fault finding there is no need for high power - just enough so that the inverter can start, like with low sun levels. So chances are the standard 30 V 3 A size could be enough. Depending on the model one may want a little more voltage.For a later, a bit higher power test I would consider a 48 V SMPS, maybe in the 300-600 W range. Still not the full power, but a bit closer. It depends if one really needs a full power test on the bench.

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2025, 04:26:24 pm
content: You need a power supply with linear or constant current limiting for MPPT to work. Foldback or trip & restart types are no good.If you don't have access to sophisticated power supplies you can use a simple transformer/rectifier/reservoir with a high power series resistor, I use an electric fire!
Solar / Lead acid battery / Load management - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: brendan-petrol
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2013, 12:02:47 am
content: Hello guys!I have a question: one of the projects I'm working on has come to the attention of my boss! Basically I'm making a rainwater tank level sensor with an MPX2010 sensor. He would like one at his tank, which is about 100 meters way from his house.The wireless part I am OK with, however the power is my issue. He doesn't have power at his tank (it's a gravity feed system on a hill), so I want to put in solar.Does anyone have any resources or advice on how I can use solar in my project? I was going to make a PCB for use in future projects (because I always like to make re-usable components!), so what I would like to do is make a circuit which can take solar power in, charge a Lead Acid battery (with a proper multi-stage charger) and output 5v/3.3v.Firstly, what sort of charge IC can I use with solar (at a good price)? How do I hook it up to the load such that it doesn't interfere with the multi-stage charge levels? If i just put the battery and load in parallel would the charger still detect the right charge levels?What is the best way of measuring the battery level? Just a voltage divider and the ADC in an AVR?Lastly, what's the most efficient way of making the output voltages? I would use a switchmode IC, but is the level they output not dependant on the input voltage? If so, would the charging/discharging voltages be too different and cause issues? Or is the output voltage change not significant in this sort of scenario?Thanks,Brendan
Solar panel night light - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mike_mike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2021, 04:50:48 pm
content: Hello! I have a 12V/3W and a 12V/10W solar panel. I would like to build a solar night light, which will charge a battery in daylight and at night it will power on a few 5mm white leds.I have the following problems:1. Which type of battery should I use for this project ? The battery needs to survive when the temperature is high... because it will stay outside. Also, it need to survive at low temperatures, when it is cold outside.2. I would like to use only one of the 2 mentioned solar panels.3. I drew a schematic, please have a look and tell me what you think.I know that there are MPPT solar chargers and circuits that I can buy from the internet... but my circuit needs to be simple.

author: fordem
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2021, 07:27:57 pm
content: Basic math ...(How much power does your load draw) multiplied by (how many hours per day will the load be drawing power) multiplied by (number of days of autonomy (how many days of bad weather you want it to be able to work through)) = required storage capacity.(How much power does your load draw) multiplied by (how many hours per day will the load be drawing power) divided by (number of sun hours per day your location gets) will give you an idea of how much power your panel needs to be able to deliver.Type of battery cannot be determined without knowing how cold or hot your location gets, and these basic formulae ignore all losses so you're going to need perhaps double the battery capacity (batteries last longer if they are not fully discharged on every cycle) and perhaps double the panel capacity (conversion efficiency and also recharging after multiple days with bad weather.I hope at this point my basic equations have brought you to the realization that you simply have not provided us with anywhere near the level of detail we would need to assist with a night light design.

author: JimRemington
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2021, 07:52:33 pm
content: Battery lifetime during periods when recharging is not possible can beroughlyestimated from the battery capacity, in mAh, and the average current draw of your entire system in mA (lifetime in hours ~ mAh/mA).Choose a battery with at least twice the minimum capacity you think you need, to account for nonlinearity and battery aging.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2021, 09:46:56 pm
content: I would use a lead acid battery, because it's easy to use and robust. The charging voltage should be limited by a shunt regulator, which will depend on the size of the solar panels. A single transistor can be used to turn the LEDs off, when the solar panel isn't charging the battery, with a diode in series with the solar panels to prevent the battery discharging, when it's dark. Connect the LEDs in strings of three in series, to save energy. Note that 5mm LEDs don't produce much light. You might want something brighter.