Anyone into cameras?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 12:25:52 pm
content: I've been gifted this lot. I've done some ebay searching and I've found that the mint condition Olympus OM-1 might go to a keen buyer for $150AUD, the Pentax MG body is worth maybe $5 and the Agfa Optima 200 maybe $20.What I'm really interested in though is the lenses. I've been meaning to get myself a decent digital SLR for years already. I know jack about camera technology but I assume that "SLR" is a standard still interchangeable with modern digital camera bodies? Having a set of decent lenses up front would save me a few bucks. The lenses are a Hoya 67mm dia. 35-200mm "MC auto zoom 1:3.8-5.2" (whatever that means), a Hoya 55mm dia. skylight (1B), 35-70mm 1:3.5-4.5 and a Teleplus MC 2X "Tele Converter".Anyone know of the caliber of these lenses or how they would compare to modern equivalents?

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 01:15:15 pm
content: Sorry "SLR" is not a lens mount standard. Each digital camera manufacturer has a different format. And they are ALL incompatible with ALL film camera mounts.If you are going to get a DSLR camera, get an appropriate lens for that camera to start off.However, that said, for those who want to experiment and know what they are doing, it is possible to use old lenses on DSLRs. By using the wide range of adapter rings available. Only be aware that none of the digital camera features like autofocus and aperture control will work. You'll have to do those manually.I count myself as 'experimenter, don't really know what I'm doing'. But I've collected a few notes:--------------Adapting older photographic lenses to:- Canon EOS DSLR cameras with EF mounts. (like the 20D & 40D)- C-mount video cameras (digital and analog)Ebay search: canon eos adapterLens types to considerCanon FD These were for Canon film cameras.Pentax Khttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentax_K-mountPK Same as K. Just a different name. Short for "Pentax K"M42 Very widely used. Invented by Zeiss in 1938. Used by Pentax prior to K-mount.Aka: Universal thread mount, Universal screw mount & Pentax thread mount.Canon FD--------See:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_FD_lens_mounthttp://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/fdlenses/FDcatalogue/fdcatalogueN.jpg2,016 x 1,194Pentax K & PK--------------See:https://www.ephotozine.com/forums/topic/pk-vs--k-mount-1635http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/The K-mount page.PK is shorthand for Pentax K. There are a few variants of the K mount, but all use the same actual mount, the differences being down to electrical connections for program modes, (KA) or autofocus (KAF) Any K, KA or KAF lens will work on an older manual focus body, so if you opt for a K1000, you should be fine.--the lens mount is the same basic K on all versions with extra couplings as the cameras have become more sophisticated. Some manufacturers add P at the front to determine it's Pentax fit. PKA is an auto lens mount with an extra pin coupling that supplies electronic connection to auto exposure cameras and KAF is for the newer autofocus cameras.M42---------See:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M42_lens_mounthttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentax_K-mountThe M42 screw-mount system was used by Pentax prior to the introduction of the K-mount. Pentax designed the K-mount wide enough to allow an adapter to fit between the M42 thread and the K bayonet. They also kept the same flange focal distance (also called registration distance or register) as the M42 screw-mount, so that M42 lenses focus correctly using the correct adapter (such as Pentax original or Bower). There are however other third-party adapters that add to the flange focal distance so that one loses the ability to focus to infinity. The loss of infinity-focus may not be significant in macro or close-up photography.There is great debate in the Pentax community over the applicability and safety of adapters other than those supplied by Pentax. Many users of third-party infinity-focus adapters, such as Bowers, report difficulty in removing the adapters from camera bodies. Such adapters may require modification before they may be safely used. Official Pentax adapters, and flanged non-infinity-focus adapters, do not provoke such problems.Many old M42 lenses have a modern-day cult reputation, including the (Pentax) Asahi Takumar range. Some manufacturers, including Carl Zeiss AG, still make lenses in the M42-mount. K-mount cameras have a suitable flange focal distance (45.46 mm) to adapt old M42 lenses without any optical correction or loss of infinity focus/changed close focus distance. Other SLRs with a short flange-focal distance can accept M42 lenses as well: Canon E-mount (44.00 mm), Sony and (Konica) Minolta A-mount (44.50 mm), Sigma (44 mm), Olympus 4/3rd (38.67 mm), and many more, but notably not Nikon F-mount (46.5 mm).======================================================Lists of adaptors, for old photographic lenses, to things I use.Image sources (old lenses, etc)-------------------------------Canon FD These were for Canon film cameras.Pentax Khttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentax_K-mountPK Same as K. Just a different name. Short for "Pentax K"M42 Very widely used. Invented by Zeiss in 1938. Used by Pentax prior to K-mount.Aka: Universal thread mount, Universal screw mount & Pentax thread mount.23mm Microscope tubes.Image capture device mounts---------------------------Canon EF mount For EOS 40D camera, etc.C-mount For video cameras, digital cameras, etc.Adapter sources---------------*http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Adapters-Mounts-Tubes/924907_502570153.htmlHave, bought, sources, info, etc--------------------------------FD --> EFFD --> CC --> EF BoughtK --> EFEF --> EF Macro extender. BoughtK --> CM42 --> EF Bought 20160423. received. US$1.95 ebay seller wonderfuloutletM42 --> C23mm --> EF Bought, no lens. Added anti-reflection liner.23mm --> C Have: - non-adjustable, no lens.- 3x Touptek, differing magnifications.----------------BoughtC Mount Movie Film Lens to Canon EOS EF Adapter Macro Shooting Ring 1000Dhttp://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-C-Mount-Movie-Film-Lens-to-Canon-EOS-EF-Adapter-Macro-Shooting-Ring-1000D/32455904097.htmlMacro Extension Tube Ring for Canon EOS 350D 400D 450Dhttp://www.aliexpress.com/item/Macro-Extension-Tube-Ring-for-Canon-EOS-350D-400D-450D/1294360467.htmlMount Adapter Ring for M42 Lens to Canon EOS DSLR and SLR EF Item price AU $2.68Item discount -AU $0.13 ebay Item number 271515684555=======================================================Adapting Canon FD to EOS EF---------------------------20160212Get very cheap lenses - Use old Canon FD lens on your Canon EOS CameraAlso all kinds of adapter ringshttp://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Adapters-Mounts-Tubes/924907_502570153.htmlThis one:http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Canon-FD-AF-Confirm-for-EOS-450D-350D-30D-40D-400D-1D-5D/924907_1105128058.htmlAdapter Ring for Canon FD /FL Lens to Canon EOS EF DSLR Cameras + AF ConfirmRated 5.0/5 based on 2 customer reviews 5.0 (2 votes) 5 ordersPrice: US $26.69 / pieceWith this lens adapter, you can mount Canon FD / FL Lens on Canon EOS cameras such as Canon EOS 500D, 1000D, 450D, 400D, 350D, 300D, 50D, 40D, 30D, 20D, 5D ll, 5D, 1DS lll .etc.. This fabulous Adapter can enable Canon EOS cameras to work with a variety of accessories. It will allow the Canon EOS owner to widen the scope of photography they undertake.Features:Newest generation! With best Chip, focus infinity is possible !Superior quality , made of brass, no cheap aluminium product! With perfect surface finishingWith our special AF Chip (newest Generation) you can confirm the sharpness of the image with manual focus through the viewfinder.In the viewfinder there will be a red dot(AF) illuminated with audio signal to indicate if the focusing is good.Compatibile with:Canon EOS 1D, 1DS, 1D Mark ll, 1Ds Mark ll, 1D Mark ll N, 1D Mark lll, 1Ds Mark lllCanon EOS 50D, 40D, 30D, 20D, 10D, 5D,5DMark ll, 7DCanon EOS 500D, 450D, 400D, 350D, 300D etc.And other Canon Film EOS Camerashttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_FD_lens_mounthttp://cameraplex.com/list-every-canon-fd-lens-ever-made/http://web.mit.edu/dennis/www/canon/fd-lens-info.htmlhttp://cameraplex.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Canon-FD-Lens-list-Cameraplex.jpg700 x 300 pixelstineye search finds the original:http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/fdlenses/FDcatalogue/fdcatalogueN.jpg2,016 x 1,194 pixels----------------------------http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Adapter-Ring-for-Canon-FD-to-EOS-450D-350D-30D-40D-400D-1D-5-50D-Adapter/924907_32451937644.htmlAdapter Ring for Canon FD to EOS 450D 350D 30D 40D 400D 1D 5 50D AdapterUS $22.99Adapter Ring for Canon FD / FL Lens to Canon EOS EF DSLR CamerasWith this lens adapter, you can mount Canon FD / FL Lens on Canon EOS cameras such as Canon EOS 500D, 1000D, 450D, 400D, 350D, 300D, 50D, 40D, 30D, 20D, 5D II , 5D , 1DS III .etc. This fabulous Adapter can enable Canon EOS cameras to work with a variety of accessories. It will allow the Canon EOS owner to widen the scope of photography they undertake.Suitable for:Canon 100D/350D/450D/500D/600D/650D/700D/750D/760D/1000D/1100D/1200D/10D/20D/30D/40D/50D/60D/70D/1D/1D Mark II/1D Mark III/1D Mark IV/1Ds/1Ds Mark II/1Ds Mark III/1DX/5D/5D Mark II/5D Mark III/5DS/5DS R/6D/7D/7D Mark IIGKD: Has no chip.==================================================M42 to EOSI think my Soligor lens is M42.M42 is a plain screw thread.Ha, this lens fits the EOS mount part of the the 23mm microscope adapter. And works, though the focal range adjustment is off, and it doesn't focus to infinity.http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/M42-Lens-to-CANON-EOS-400D-450D-350D-40D-5D-10D-1Ds-etc/924907_1108044233.htmlUS $5.99http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Adapter-Ring-Tube-M42-Screw-Mount-Lens-to-Canon-EOS-M-Mount-Camera-Metal-Solid/924907_1194697721.htmlAdapter Ring Tube M42 Screw Mount Lens to Canon EOS M Mount Camera Metal SolidWhat is EOS M?Bought:20160423ebay Sold by wonderfuloutlet ( 43984 )Hot Sale Mount Adapter Ring for M42 Lens to Canon EOS DSLR and SLR EF Useful Item price AU $2.68Item number 271515684555============================================g: pentax K lens to canon eos adapterhttp://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Pentax-PK-lens-AF-Confirm-for-CANON-EOS-50D-300D-Adapter/924907_1105240840.htmlPentax PK lens AF Confirm for CANON EOS 50D 300D AdapterUS $21.99Adapter Ring with AF Confirm for PK ( Pentax & Ricoh ) Lens to Canon EOS EF DSLR CamerasNewest generation! With best Chip, focus infinity is possible !With this lens adapter, you can mount PK (Pentax $ Ricoh ) Lens on Canon EOS cameras such as Canon EOS 500D, 1000D, 450D, 400D, 350D, 300D, 50D, 40D, 30D, 20D, 5D ll, 5D, 1DS lll .etc.. This fabulous Adapter can enable Canon EOS cameras to work with a variety of accessories. It will allow the Canon EOS owner to widen the scope of photography they undertake.Features:* Superior quality , made of brass, no cheap aluminium product! With perfect surface finishing* With our special AF Chip (newest Generation) you can confirm the sharpness of the image with manual focus through the viewfinder. In the viewfinder there will be a red dot(AF) illuminated with audio signal to indicate if the focusing is good.* Newest Generation ! focus infinity is possible !Compatibile with:* Canon EOS 1D, 1DS, 1D Mark ll, 1Ds Mark ll, 1D Mark ll N, 1D Mark lll, 1Ds Mark lll* Canon EOS 50D, 40D, 30D, 20D, 10D, 5D,5DMark ll, 7D* Canon EOS 500D, 450D, 400D, 350D, 300D etc.* And other Canon Film EOS Cameras=========================================================

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 01:40:01 pm
content: Quote from: TerraHertz on June 12, 2016, 01:15:15 pmWell that sucks. That's like a gazillion dollars of fine glass consigned to the dustbin. I would have guessed in my naivety that given the investment in dollars that many have in their glass that there would have been market demand and viability for backwards compatibility with the introduction of DSLR.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 02:31:18 pm
content: Quote from: wilfred on June 12, 2016, 01:46:53 pmI think the situation might be a bit better than that. Those lenses I have all have the same mount and fit the Pentax MG. According to wikipedia the MG used the Pentax "K-mount", so these must all be K-mount lenses. Apparently modern Pentax DSLRs still use the K-mount standard, and these old film lenses still attach. See here:http://www.robertsdonovan.com/?p=1181QuoteIf this is the case I'd be quite happy to go out and splurge out on a Pentax DSLR camera body and try out using it with these old film lenses first, before deciding whether or not to fork out for a modern lens. I mean I got these manual focus film lenses for nothing, so why not?

author: TiN
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 02:51:39 pm
content: Those old lenses are pretty much worthless in terms of image quality/usability on modern DSLRs, even if you find and install them with mount adapter. If you not into photography, you will likely find manual focusing, setting apertures and adjustments tedious and time-wasteful.You don't have to buy top-notch $$-lenses for DSLR either, if you just want to take decent pictures. There are lots of options, either from universal lenses like 18-70/135 to more "artistic" nice quality but still affordable prime focals (50/1.8, 35/1.8, 85/1.8 etc, be it Nikon or Canon or whatever). When you buy DSLR , you not just buying a camera body, but selecting a system (some even call it religion) to stay with. As if you invest time and money into Nikon, you will quickly find desire to switch into other system rather painful and costly.Also there is nothing wrong in all manual lenses, there are many old manual-only Nikon/Canon/Sony lenses which are able to produce amazing images, but I'd say it's not usually a good choice for someone who just entering shady world of photography, as you need to be solid in photo principles, various settings combo's and such.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 03:18:55 pm
content: Quote from: TiN on June 12, 2016, 02:51:39 pmWell, that Hoya K-mount 67mm dia. 35-200mm zoom lens that I have fitted with the Teleplus 2X converter gives me a 70mm - 400mm equivalent zoom lens. I'm sure the combination has some optical shortcomings compared to a modern lens, but modern 400mm lenses aren't just a few quid.

author: TiN
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 04:42:53 pm
content: With 400mm 1:9 (200 * 2x coverter) you will see almost nothing in viewfinder and also will not be able to take photos without having whole thing on heavy tripod and without your breath at hold (not because excitement, but due to shake from air moving over the camera)If you into long-range lenses (birds, airplanes?) old Nikkor 300/4 is nice cheap choice (even though slow, it's ligthyears ahead of any zoom+2x teleconverter) setup

author: steve30
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 05:17:04 pm
content: The K-Mount lenses should work fine on a modern Pentax camera (just with no autofocus/auto aperture). I've never used a Pentax DSLR, but they do look rather good and would be well worth considering if you are wanting to start out with DSLRs.K-Mount and M42 mount lenses can be adapted to fit on Canon EOS DSLRs. I've done this and had good results, but a lot of modern cameras have crappy viewfinders, so manual focusing can be a bit tricky.I can't comment on the specific lenses you have, but I doubt they'd really be worth much, so they're probably worth keeping so you can have a play with them. Whether the image quality is good enough, or whether they are usable enough will be entirely down to your personal preference.If you do decide to buy a DSLR, there are some modern, automatic, "kit" lenses which are very good, and quite cheap and would be well worth getting to start you out with. The most common type is probably the 18-55mm zoom. If you go down the Canon route, they have some cheap 24mm and 50mm 'primes' which are very good. That way, you will have a choice of either a modern lens, or an old one, and not be limited to either one or the other.Hope that helps.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 06:41:36 pm
content: It's become very popular these days to use old lenses (mainly primes, the older zooms are usually not that sharp). There's a whole world of cameras that basically obsolete DSLRs: there is really no need for an optical path from the lens to the user's eye when the sensor is good enough. In addition, these smaller cameras (micro-four thirds, blackmagic, etc) have a shorter flange distance, which means they are widely compatible with MOST older lenses with the right adapters, and they have passive autofocus systems which means they can be used with any manual focus lens. Flange distance is everything when it comes to lens compatibility. If the distance of the lens is shorter than the camera, infinity focus is impossible. I've attached a PDF that tells you the lens mount and flange distance of almost every lens series, which tells you whether they can be adapted to any camera.check out forum.mflenses.com, there are a lot of discussions there.edit: I can't tell who made the lenses in your picture, definitely not Hoya (Hoya only makes filters). They look like they could be Soligor or a lower-end brand. Most old zoom lenses are really not sharp, but there were exceptions. The teleconverter is a device to mount in between the camera and lens that multiplies the focal distance, making a medium tele into a long telephoto, etc. It's basically a kludge for when you can't afford or carry a long tele, and shouldn't be used for the highest image quality. The Olympus lens looks like it may be very good.

author: Thor-Arne
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 07:34:28 pm
content: Many interesting replies here.I'm sure you could get these old lenses to fit on a DSLR, but I can guarantee that they will never perform like the modern professional lenses designed for DSLR's.Personally, I'm biased towards Nikon/Nikor.Going to a professional shop and actually trying some of the kits available might be the best solution, and that will probably answer the question about these old lenses.

author: edy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 01:31:59 am
content: You want to have fun with those old cameras and learn about f-stops, depth of field, shutter speed, ISO and light meters.... Pick up some film. I'm sure it still exists. Add to that a developer box and some chemicals, and get yourself to develop negatives. Then scan the negatives to further process, or pick up an enlarger and more chemicals and some photo paper and make your own prints in a "dark" (red light) room. You will learn about tons of stuff. You can even put infrared film and take neat effect shots. Polarizing, neutral and other filters can give you awesome effects, and learn to "solarize" in the dark room. Take long exposures (bulb), strobe shots, double exposures, etc.If you don't want to bother with all of that, buy some modern lenses. That's just how photography is. Yeah it sucks and I have a pile of old gear which I took years of amazing photos with... and if can get film and find a place to develop it or you decide to make your own, it can still be very satisfying and interesting and very educational. Best not to combine old and new, cameras are designed to work as a system and modern DSLR's may not even be worth you buying it just so you can use some old lenses with it.Read more here:http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/buying-guide/traditional-darkroom-buying-guide

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 02:36:59 am
content: Quote from: helius on June 12, 2016, 06:41:36 pmYou're right. The lenses only have Hoya brand filters screwed onto the ends. I've found the brand name for the 75-200mm zoom lens - it's two words but written in a weird hieroglyph and the first word is hard to figure out. It looks like HYDHL. That gets me no lens-related google hits but the second word does and it is definitely SICOR.The 35-70mm zoom lens is a "SUN C-A-D".

author: MarvinTheMartian
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 03:02:24 am
content: If you are interested in going down the path of developing your own film and making prints as Edy was saying, then I have some of the gear you would need that you could have for nothing (enlarger, etc), if you live somewhere in the Sydney region.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 03:23:05 am
content: The first word is definitely katakana for "saikoru" (=Sicor). It was made at some Japanese optical factory, and labeled with various brands like Soligor, Hanimex, and Prinz, owned by import companies. It was a cheap lens, but the actual performance of lenses sometimes has very little to do with their price.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 03:36:28 am
content: Yeah, both the big HYDHL SICOR and the smaller SUN lens are labeled "Made in Japan". Sun Optics appears to be a company that has been borged long ago, but the brands does appear to have a decent reputation for quality.These cameras belonged to my parents. They did a clean-up and put these aside for picking as they were otherwise going into the bin and no one is going to be offended if that is where they ultimately do end up. My old man was adamant that the SUN lens was the one to keep. The Olympus does have the original F.Zuiko lens - definitely no fungus. This thing is as clean as the day it came out of the factory.

author: edy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 03:36:56 am
content: There is a reason you got this old camera gear for next to nothing. That's not to say it is isn't *worth* anything. It is an amazing opportunity to delve into classic photography and pick up and test for yourself a lot of classic photographic techniques, ideas and principles.Look at what you can get on eBay for next to nothing... 4 SLR cameras with lenses for $60:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-4-EOS-Rebel-K2-Ti-SLR-35mm-Film-Cameras-28-90mm-35-80mm-Zoom-Lenses-/371653322617?hash=item568843a779:g:flAAAOSw5L9XDVe6And here's another:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Camera-Lot-of-3-Nikon-Canon-Minolta-plus-Extras-Big-Lot-PARTS-/152104874572?hash=item236a28324c:g:lfsAAOSwintXR2W6And check out this auction which you could probably win for next to nothing (currently at $15):http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-PENTAX-35MM-FILM-CAMERA-LOT-2-BODIES-5-LENSES-FLASH-AND-MORE-/391479921539?hash=item5b26058b83:g:pbYAAOSwzJ5XWwlDAnd the list goes on.... Sad isn't it? Still that does not mean it can't be put to good use.Personally, I have a Kodak Retina, two "Zenit" (Russian) cameras (basically Pentax screw-mount clones) with a plethora of lenses (wide, regular, zoom), some "bellows" camera (not sure of name), a Leica, and a pile of bits and pieces that go with it all. Either from my parents, from flea-markets, from older relatives, all gathered over many years. I used to use it when film was commonly available and I could drop off a roll at a local store and get prints made. Often the people at the store would not believe their eyes seeing the photos (when they actually did it manually before computers did it all)... because they were so nice and scenic or special-effect. They were used to seeing the usual "vacation" photos of people, whereas I took the time to set up special shots, either using a Macro lens or time-lapse photos, or other experiments.It was fun, but I can't say I miss it when compared to digital photography which offers so much more for so much less cost, including instant gratification and the ability to take an infinite number of photos. It was such as "QUANTUM LEAP" from film to digital that this single-handedly killed the photo film industry in not a very long time. That's why nobody needs the old film gear for anything. There's no going back.... but you can still have fun with the gear if you really really want to.Honestly, for every day shooting where you need to see what you did instantly, just go with a digital camera.... Not even a D-SLR. You will be better off with any decent fixed-lens cameras, some of which allow you to attach "adapters" that give you the option to change lens angles. The use of DSLR ("single lens reflex") doesn't necessarily equate with changeable lenses. There are cameras that are non-DSLR that will let you switch lenses.... called "mirrorless" cameras. Basically, they don't have the mirror and optical viewfinder that define D-SLR. The lens images directly on the sensor. They are simpler and faster and don't have the extra moving parts, and almost nobody uses a viewfinder anyways.If you want to learn classic photography as a hobby and you like to learn and experiment and get that "surprise" feeling when you actually develop a roll of film and understand more about what is happening, it is a beautiful nostalgic experience.... And you have a nice set of gear or "kit" to do many things with.MarvinTheMartian is even gracious enough to provide equipment for you to get the hobby rolling!I think you will find that if you ever want to get into film again, there is a wonderful community of hobbyists out there who still enjoy it that can help you along. There's nothing like a totally MANUAL non-electronic camera that you need to figure out EVERYTHING about your shot, and then have absolutely no idea how it turned out until you develop the film!Personally, what I'd like to get into is holography. I attended an amateur holography exhibition by a local club when I was a teen (a long time ago) and was just mesmerized on what kind of stuff they had printed on glass plates. It was incredible to see.... even color holograms. Ever since then, my dream has been to make holograms. It uses lasers and splitters and prisms and various lenses as well to cast light on your object and you set up a glass plate (with the photographic emulsion) in such a way that the laser lights bounce off the object and hit the plate. Once exposed, you develop the glass plate in a similar way to wet-chemical film processing and then you can view your hologram using the same laser light, or there is a way to make it work under normal room lights as well. I'm still waiting for the day I have the time to get in to that hobby.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 03:43:31 am
content: Quote from: MarvinTheMartian on June 13, 2016, 03:02:24 amThanks for the offer, but I really have neither the room nor the time to spare for an additional hobby like that.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 03:54:16 am
content: Quote from: edy on June 13, 2016, 03:36:56 amWhich is exactly what I currently have and what I have had for the past ~15 years already. I'm not keen on getting a DSLR or some such with a telescopic lens as a substitute camera for making everyday happy snaps.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 04:10:26 am
content: Quote from: edy on June 13, 2016, 03:36:56 amIt does if you have a K-mount Pentax DSLR; any old K-mount lens will snap right on, although there are operational quirks with manual lenses w.r.t. the non operation of auto focus/aperture; these are all outlined in the photography blog/tutorial I linked to towards the beginning of this thread.Helius has already mentioned those "mirrorless" cameras (Micro-four-thirds) which do look very interesting and probably better than a Pentax K-mount DSLR. However the "Micro-four-thirds" is an Olympus/Panasonic thing, but aftermarket Pentax K-mount adapters which would suit my lenses are readily available.This blog looks particularly pertinent:http://www.thephoblographer.com/2012/12/25/using-my-dads-old-manual-k-mount-lenses-on-micro-four-thirds/

author: MarvinTheMartian
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 06:47:19 am
content: Quote from: GK on June 13, 2016, 03:43:31 amNo worries.Ditto re time and space - I've had that gear in storage for about 20 years and really need to move it on (ie probably dump it) to make room in my workshop. I just never had the time to get back into photography when I moved into a unit/flat (no room to set it up there!) and when I moved into a house some years later, I didn't have the time - then the digital revolution came and that pretty much killed any incentive for me to get back into 'real' photography!

author: cloudscapes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2016, 10:42:24 pm
content: Please do not throw legacy lenses out (in the dustbin).No, they wont work with modern DSLRs, but they work just fine on mirrorless cameras. I've been doing that for years.

author: laureatemachine
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 05:17:44 am
content: The K mount lens will definitley work, albeit in manual mode for both focus and aperture, on a Pentax DSLR. I have a Pentax Kx DSLR and use my old K mounts. The KA mount lenses I have will even work in auto aperature mode too. But unless you are really looking to learn the technical aspects of photog. I suggest you find a DSLR setup you like with one or two autofocus zoom lenses. Heck, many of the P.H.D. (push here dummy) cameras with bigger diameter optics take really fine pictures and HD video.Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk

author: AG6QR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 06:13:13 am
content: Quote from: TerraHertz on June 12, 2016, 01:15:15 pmExcept for the Nikons. In 1980, I bought a Nikon FM, (a very basic, fully mechanical, manual film camera) and slowly built up a collection of lenses for it. I still use every one of those lenses on my Nikon D200 DSLR. The D200 itself is now nearly a decade out of date, but it still does a fine job. There are newer Nikon DSLRs with better CCD sensors these days, and I may trade up to a newer body eventually. All of my Nikon AI lenses work as well on the D200 as they did on the film cameras, supporting auto diaphragm and full-aperture metering with auto exposure. Of course they're manual focus, but that's not a problem. They also don't support having the camera automatically control the aperture -- you've got to twist the aperture ring to control the aperture, but in my mind, that's a more intuitive way to control aperture anyway (maybe that's just force of habit).Obligatory electronics content: Here's what a 35 year old Nikkor lens can do, handheld, paired with a 9 year old DSLR. When you amortize the cost of good quality gear over a long enough time, it's not that expensive.That's taken with a 105mmf/2.8 AIS Micro-Nikkor

author: Kilrah
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 09:05:26 am
content: If you want to play with old lenses the newest Sony Full frame mirrorless cameras are awesome - they're the only ones that basically can use every lens ever made for 35mm through the appropriate mount adapters and without additional crop. Been playing with a bunch of old lenses with mine, it's a lot of fun. Take it for the "experience" and "creative" value though - obviously if you're looking at purely technical image quality the old glass is pretty much always very "meh" by today's standards.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 12:52:58 pm
content: The Sony Full Frame cameras look nice, but the base model appears to be the A7 and that costs ~$1400.I've been looking at a number of these mirrorless cameras and I have two niggling concerns regarding their use with legacy manual K-mount lenses. The first is the quality of the adaptors. There are a huge number of such adaptors stamped with various brand names and very cheap on offer from vendors on ebay - some ridiculously cheap - like less than $10. I wouldn't presume any of these to be anything but junk.Then there is Fotodiox, which are a bit pricier (from ~$25 to $50) but the reviews on sites like amazon are mixed. Some claim that their Fotodiox adaptor fits nice and snug whilst others claim that theirs doesn't or that it broke apart and that their lens detached from the camera. The only decent K-mount m43/E-mount adaptors for lenses with a manual aperture ring that I can find (that is readily available) is (Japanese) made by Voigtlander, at a cost of ~$180.The other concern I have is with the mechanical robustness of the lower-end mirrorless options. An Olympus Pen Lite E-PL5 (just for example) on a tripod with a big heavy old school lens might not be a good idea.For about 40 dollars more than the cost of the E-PL5 plus the Voigtlander adaptor I can get an entry-level Pentax K-50 DSLR body:http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod10367.htmIts got a tough durable body and no expensive adaptor is required to fit any legacy K-mount lens.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 03:07:22 pm
content: No one has mentioned the obvious suggestion for a member of this forum. Use those lenses, with those camera bodies, modified to use a digital sensor. A hack conversion to DSLR.Just because it isn't practical (lots of issues from image size to controls to ....) or make economic sense, think of the wondor!

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 05:19:33 pm
content: I have rather complete EOS system (EOS 1n, EOS 3, EOS 650, and some lenses).But mainly I use one of those:And when I have time this:Developing film at home is very fun.

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 08:54:56 pm
content: Quote from: GK on June 12, 2016, 02:31:18 pmI went this route and in hind sight - I regret it

author: willb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2016, 10:24:37 pm
content: Photography is another hobby. I shoot digital for 99.9% of what I do (Nikon D700), however the Mamiya does come out for very very special occasions. I keep the camera in its box in my bedroom closet. I used to shoot professionally between 2005-2008 and it was my main source of income for those years, however doing it for a living day in and day out really killed the passion I had for it. I'm happy I kept most of my equipment as I enjoy it once again during my free time. I've had the Mamiya for 8-9 years now, it's a long story on how I got it...

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 15, 2016, 06:50:30 am
content: That looks like some nice Nikon glass you have there. Photography is another of my expensive pastimes as well.-Pat

author: Circlotron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2016, 12:53:48 pm
content: I've still got an old Pentax SP1000 I bought back in 1974. Haven't used it for many years. The thing is, it has a 55mm SMC Takumar lens, the one it came standard with. What I want to know is, have lenses improved all that much from this lens, a moderate quality one? We recently got a Sony DSLR and it takes absolute ripper pics and the camera is really nothing special. And what about the tiny tiny lenses in smartphones? Some of them take unbelievable pics for their size.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2016, 01:52:21 pm
content: I'm currently procrastinating over buying a Pentax K-50 DSLR or a Pentax K-S1 DSLR. I've found a OZ wholesaler that will do the former for $499 and the latter for $599. The 50 have 16 megapixels and the S1 has 20. Do I really need 20 megapixels over 16 megapixels?

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 15, 2016, 02:12:43 pm
content: Unless you're planning to make huge blow ups of the images, you likely won't notice much difference between 16 and 20 Mpix. I'm not familiar with either camera (Canon guy here), but are there perhaps other features that might make the more expensive one worth the premium? I wouldn't buy it based on 20 vs 16, but better low light performance, additional features, etc. might tip the scales. I'll try to look at both online today and see what else is different between them.-Pat

author: Kilrah
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 15, 2016, 02:33:26 pm
content: You should indeed look at the features and image performance rather than the pixel count, especially with the difference between 16 and 20 being basically negligible. It's good to read some detailed reviews for both.

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 15, 2016, 03:52:52 pm
content: Ok, I just took a quick look at both online, and if it were me, I'd go with the K-50. Bear in mind that I say this mainly as someone who's familiar with using DSLRs, and base this preference mainly on the fact that the K50 appears to be a fairly 'conventional' style DSLR, with a physically larger body (easier to handle and get a good grip on). The K-S1 seems to be more 'flashy' for no good reason - I simply can't understand the purpose of the LEDs they put on the grip of the camera (covered by your hand when you're holding it), and fail to see the need for a lighted ring around the shutter release button. It falls naturally under my finger when I'm holding the camera, and when it's in use I can't see ANY of these lights. Not sure what they do other than drain the battery somewhat faster. I prefer the physically larger, more traditional design over the more compact, 'fashion accessory' camera with decorative flashing lights on it.FWIW-Pat

author: willb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2016, 10:02:45 pm
content: Quote from: Cubdriver on June 15, 2016, 06:50:30 amThanks! I've always invested in glass more than bodies. My D700 is almost 10 years old and has well over 120 000 shutter actuation's but it does everything I ask it, and the image quality is still stunning IMO. 12 megapixels is also plenty for what I do. I shot for years with a D2Hs with only 4 megapixels and the resolution was never really a limiting factor for me. The 36 megapixel D800 does not do anything for me. The RAW files must be huge!I have the following (all Nikon, no Sigma/3rd party stuff here)300mm F2.8 AF-I, with a TC-14 II if required70-200mm F2.8 VR-I24-70mm F2.816-35mm F4 VR (probably my favorite lens, insanely sharp!!!)105mm F2.8 Macro VR85mm F1.8D50mm 1.4D

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 15, 2016, 11:16:01 pm
content: Agreed! Good glass is definitely a good investment - bodies come and go, but glass stays around.I've heard nothing but good about the Nikon 16-35, and some of the Canon guys on the POTN forum talked a few years ago about switching over for that lens alone.I discovered a camera/lens rental place in TN that, after a certain number of months of ownership or cumulative rental time (whichever comes first) sells their gear as used for a reasonable discount. It's very well taken care of, and conservatively rated. I've amassed a nice collection of Canon 'L' glass from them, the POTN buy/sell forum and occasional new stuff when there were discounts/rebates over the years (14, 24, 35, 50 & 135mm primes, 100 & 180mm L macro, several of the tilt-shifts from the rental place, others new or used from the forum or NY camera houses) I'm shooting with either a 7D or a 5D II; I also still have my old 20D but it needs a new shutter (I wore it out doing time lapses a few years ago).Some one of these years I'll find time to go out and shoot, rather than using a few pieces of kit in the house to photograph old electronic gear to post here!-Pat

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 01:15:38 am
content: A year or two ago, I read a survey of professional photographers that asked what was their back up camera and it was ---- iPhone (I was surprised)Practice with you phone first to see what you cannot do with it so you know what you need to buy.

author: cloudscapes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 11:00:31 pm
content: Some old lenses are still comparable to modern lenses. The kiron 105mm macro is a classic worth seeking out even for adapted mirrorless cameras. And definitely keep an eye out for old zeiss/contax SLR/rangefinder lenses. Much cheaper than leicas, but comparable image quality.

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 12:47:29 am
content: Quote from: cloudscapes on June 16, 2016, 11:00:31 pm+1 it was my go to macro when I was selling some coins years ago. Now if only I can find it.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 07:24:56 am
content: Quote from: TiN on June 12, 2016, 04:42:53 pmI must have ninja camera handling skill and bionic vision then, because even at max zoom with the 2x teleconverter hand-held stability isn't an issue and the image in the view finder is perfectly clear and bright as daylight.I've just unboxed my new Pentax camera and have had a quick play after putting 20 minutes of charge into the lithium battery. Crappy overcast weather outside right now, but good enough to confirm that the Pentax DSLR works perfectly fine with the 200m lens alone. However when the x2 teleconverter is put in-line, even so the image is perfectly clear in the both the viewfinder and on the LCD ("live view" electronic viewfinder mode), when a frame is snapped the resultant image is all white and blurry. Don't currently know if there is a setting work-around to get the teleconverter operating correctly; I've got a thick manual an a million settings and options to familiarize myself with.------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------I ended up getting the K-50 body from ebay-store seller/photography wholesaler "DCxpert"; $499 and free postage. Yes the $100 more expensive KS1 is pimped a bit. In addition to the 4M-pixel resolution advantage the KS1 also has a GPS for "geotagging" photos and it is capable of continuously auto focusing in video capture mode. Specified battery life for the KS1 is actually little better than for the K50, besides all those funky LEDs and control illumination. Besides all that though it's pretty much a draw from a technical standpoint. I don't care for the pimped styling of the KS1 however and the K50, which is about 10% physically larger, is heavily ruggedised and dust/splash proofed, which is what sold me in the end (considering where I'll be taking this camera).@35mm (min.) Hydhl Sicor lens, Hoya UV(O) filter:@200mm (max.) Hydhl Sicor lens, Hoya UV(O) filterAs above but at @400mm with x2 teleconverter in-line

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 08:15:21 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on June 24, 2016, 08:08:19 amThat was a joke.QuoteWhat it has is better than nothing and of course I'm not going to take it into the swimming pool.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 08:22:17 am
content: Here is a small crop of the previously attached 200mm-zoom grevillea photo, in full resolution. OK I think, for a manual focus from several meters.

author: singapol
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 10:03:20 am
content: Congratulations to GK on your Pentax K50 ,not many cameras even in this price range from the big boys have weather sealed ( water resistant ) body. Pentax is the only camera company that kept it's promise that all it's old legacy/film camera lenses can still be used on their digital SLRs except without autofocus but still have stopped downed aperture metering.If you have old Pentax film autofocus screw drive lenses then all the better because then you can have autofocus as well as full aperture metering. Nikon only put it's old legacy lens usability ( backward compatibilty including metering) only on it's high end models.The old manual lenses that you have are not highly desired even by manual lens users on digitals but it's hard to condemn them because if you are not fussy about image quality it's usable. I would not recommendusing the 2X teleconvertor as it degrades image unless you use an original teleconvertor from Pentax or another one from a reputable brand like sigma or tamron who are 3rd. party manufacturers.Your pictures lack contrast because of the teleconvertor and overexposed. You could probably correct or enhance them with a suitable image processing software like Lightroom. Getting correct metering takes practice and knowledge of camera functions and photograpy knowhow.Please keep at it as it will give youintangible satisfaction when you look back at your old photos.Pentax is a brand that offers value in photographic terms although all brands can do similar things. Just to let you know what a top Full framePentax that was recently released...the K1 ,here is a review that might encourage you on.http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1615366&p=9338892#post9338892

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 11:25:26 am
content: With that one that's all blown out, it looks to me like the aperture control signal isn't getting through the teleconverter to the lens diaphragm, so the lens isn't stopping down.Try shooting something with the teleconverter, but manually vary the shutter speed (shutter priority). Start at a relatively high shutter speed that needs the lens to be wide open (smallest f/ stop number), and then make a series of exposures of the same subject, slowing the shutter speed a click or two each time. If things are working properly, they /should/ all be good exposures. If the lens isn't stopping down, the first will be good, and the following ones will be progressively more overexposed as the shutter slows.-Pat

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 12:34:32 pm
content: Yeah, all of those photos were taken in "MF" (manual focus) mode, but in "Auto" sensitivity(ISO)/aperture(value)/shutter(speed) mode, with the lens aperture ring set to the "A" position. So the exposure as singapol noted is (way) off. Auto exposure mode doesn't seem to be 100% compatible with the teleconverter. In fact it doesn't appear to do a very good job with my manual focus/aperture lenses even without the teleconverter.I've since setup/programmed the camera for proper full-manual lens operation following the instructions here:http://support.us.ricoh-imaging.com/node/1536Basically "Use (lens) aperture ring" is now set to "enabled" and "stop-down" metering for the shutter speed (as per the manually set aperture value on the lens) is configured for the manual exposure mode. I can now make grainy photos of spots on the wall at 200mm x2 through the teleconverter here at night in my study, but I'll have wait 'till tomorrow when the sun is shining outside to try it out properly.

author: EntropyWizard
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 01:40:59 pm
content: You could also try removing the filter and adding a lens hood or shade for testing, some of your image softness may be from flare.

author: singapol
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 06:06:03 pm
content: Quote from: GK on June 24, 2016, 12:34:32 pmStrange according to the link you posted if your lens has the A setting on the aperture ring you can use K50 auto modes like Tv,Av (shutter or aperture priority) so it's semi auto.Is the A mark locked to the index lineindicator? If the lens don't have the A setting then you need to do what the link says..Enable "using aperture ring" and E- dialing programming to asign thegreen buttonto stop down aperture ,camera will measure exposure and automatically set based on that measurement. (This is an improvement over older models where it is you have to mimick film camera metering "centering the needle" analog meter, that is adjusting until viewfinder indicates correct setting).The "use aperture ring" merely unlocks the shutter firing protection for newer autofocus lenses that have electrical contacts on the lens mount base..those round contacts. About the metering...if using manual lenses I don't think selecting matrix metering or whatever Pentax call it will work because of the missing electrical contacts so camera will default to center weighted meteing.Do check users manual for clarity..you may need to select manually from settings menu?Do also know that the camera's metering system is not foolproof as it will measure and exposure to a greycolour reference so for extreme bright or dark lighting sitautions the meter will be fooled so compensateaccording. Do read up on photographic exposure and you will get more good photos.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2016, 06:12:35 pm
content: Old mechanical lenses that were called "auto" had two separate linkages: switching from fully open to the desired aperture; and sending the actual aperture setting to the camera. This was complicated to do mechanically, and extension rings, bellows, or TCs needed to be very carefully designed to pass on those movements. When the linkage is broken, you must use soi-dissant "stop-down metering", where you manually turn the aperture as the picture darkens and registers the correct exposure.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2016, 01:45:32 am
content: QuoteMy big 200mm lens with the "A" setting on the aperture ring works OK on all exposure modes (with the ring set to the "A" position), but it will not work on full "auto" with the teleconverter in-line; I just get washed out white images as per the example I posted earlier. Some aspect of the teleconverter must confuse the cameras metering.It works fine though on full manual or semi-auto exposure. Attached is an uncropped grevillea picture taken ~15 minutes ago (still a bit overcast outside) at full 400mm-teleconverter-amplified zoom from a standing distance of 10 meters (I measured it). This was taken in Manual exposure mode with "TVshift" light metering to correctly set the shutter speed for the set lens aperture (ring not in "A" position). According to the photos histogram (brightness distribution) the exposure is OK. Stability isn't an issue at all, but the teleconverter does really noticeably knock back the image resolution/clarity and it does require a lot more sun light. So yeah, the teleconverter should only be used when you are desperate to zoom into something really distant, but even then the apparent reduction in resolution is that high that you might be better off just snapping at x2 less zoom and cropping the image. I have some more experimentation to do here.@400mm, Hydhl Sicor lens + x2 teleconverter.

author: singapol
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2016, 04:11:26 am
content: Your lastest photo is a lot sharper with teleconvertor..I presume this is jpeg and not raw format,straight out of the camera. FYI K50 sensor is APSC so crop factor (magnification) is 1.5 so at 200mm it's 200x1.5 = 300mmand with teleconvertor it's 600mm. Technically focal length usually used for birding or wildlife.So the image stabalisation is pretty good provided you input the correct focal length in the settings. People say if you use tripod then disable SR (shake reduction - image stabalisation).

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2016, 06:15:58 am
content: Yes these are all JPEG. OK,..APSC crop factor; thanks, good to know. Actually I read about this a couple of weeks ago but forgot....full-frame sensor=x1, DSLR APSC=x1.5, micro-four-thirds=x2. Yes, wild life/nature photography is what I have in mind. The image stabilization is amazing. When you first turn the camera on and it detects that there isn't a modern lens attached to which it can communicate it asks for the lens focal length (or an approximate mean for zoom lenses) to optimize the image stabilization, though it seems to do an effective job largely regardless of what value you enter. I believe this works by means of a servo system that mechanically jiggles the in-body lens/prism in opposition to your own shaking? Pretty cool.Some playing around with the little 35-70mm Sun-brand "C-A-D" lens. This one seems quite nice, though it's fully manual with no "A" setting on the aperture ring. The top photo is at f/3.5 (wide open) aperture and the lower duplicate is at f/16. The difference in depth of field is really obvious. This is at max zoom, so 70x1.5 = 105mm. Fully manual exposure albeit auto shutter speed metering (TVshift).

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 09:02:01 am
content: Work took me out into the Coorong today so the camera had its first field trip. It's the middle of winter here now and today was very dark and overcast, the sun hiding behind thick cloud virtually the whole day. Still learning. I made a bunch of photos throughout the day with an ISO setting (1600) way too high even for the overcast conditions. The photos all looked great on the cameras LCD and are fine postcard size but fairly disappointing when viewed in high res on the computer monitor due to graininess. Towards the end of the day I had the opportunity to make a series of photos at much reduced ISO and they turned out much better. The seal pic below was taken ~30 mins prior to sun set at ISO 400 and a fairly wide open aperture. This is with the Sicor 200mm lens. This was the (technically) best quality image I managed to take all day. The level of daylight at that time did not permit decent photos <400 ISO. At 200 and 100 I found it really hard to hold the camera steady enough to prevent blurring. Even at 400 a second shot of the same frame turned out blurry as the seal was moving its head. It's not easy to make very good photos outdoors when it's a gloomy day, but with some more experimentation I should get a better feel for the general settings required. Thankfully the winter solstice is already past.

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 03:59:47 pm
content: Nice shot!-Pat

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2016, 07:38:14 am
content: Thanks

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2016, 12:55:05 pm
content: Here is a jpeg snippet of the seal photo in full resolution. I think this gives a decent perspective on the "resolving" ability of this old Sicor lens. If the photo was taken on a bright and sunny day permitting a lower ISO setting I'm sure the detail would be better. I've since learnt that this lens was bought new in 1985 for $300. Dunno if that puts it into the budget or premium category for its day. The SUN lens is better, but only 70mm zoom.I was standing on a barrage a few meters up looking down on the seal. If you look closely you can see a reflection of myself holding the camera in the seals eye.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2016, 12:20:46 pm
content: The little "Sun"-brand 35mm-70mm lens this time. For each photo a reduced-size of the entire image is posted along with a full-resolution crop. The closeup flower, frog, lizard and arachnid photos were all taken in macro mode. The variable focal length of this lens isn't very far at its maximum. I haven't actually measured it yet, but anything more than several meters away needs infinity focus, which, taking manual focusing out of the equation, kinda makes it a point-and-click lens as far a focusing is concerned. Thus all of the landscape photos were taken at infinity focus. The infinity-focus image sharpness is obviously not as good as the in-range shots, but I guess that is to be expected. The Sun lens however is much better/sharper/clearer at infinity focus than is the 200mm Sicor that I photographed the seal with, which I guess can be expected. Comparatively, the Sicor lens is poor for landscape photography, but I couldn't have made that seal shot with the Sun lens due to its limited zoom.So how much am Ireallymissing out on here in terms of resolution or "resolving capability" compared to a modern zoom lens of comparable focal-length specification? For in-focal range and macro stuff it doesn't look to me like it could be very much at all. I'd like to add a wide-angle lens to my collection for better landscape photos. The idea of hunting down some legacy manual K-mount glass for chump change rather than blowing several hundred bucks on a current wide-angle still appeals to me.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2016, 11:09:07 pm
content: Not sure why you think that infinity is going to be blurry; most lenses very sharp at infinity. The focusing scale mark for infinity may not be accurate, though. And if the lens is decentered or mounted with the wrong flange distance, it will not be possible to achieve infinity focus.Depth of field is always going to be deeper with wide-angle lenses compared to teles. That's a basic optical principle. It's also why there's an expectation that landscape pictures are completely in focus everywhere, and portraits have out-of-focus backgrounds. When this expectation is violated, we experience pictures in a very strange way: seehttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miniature_faking

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 01:56:49 am
content: The macro shots look pretty good, but the more distant ones definitely show a lot of softness in the crops - especially the first two showing the trees.What exposure settings did you use to take them (shutter speed, aperture)?-Pat

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 02:22:28 am
content: Quote from: helius on September 02, 2016, 11:09:07 pmFor the reasons you mention in your following two sentences. Additionally these lenses focus to infinity (or rather have their infinity scale mark) at the end stop; the scale isn't graduated beyond infinity. Modern high-end lenses range beyond infinity to account for variables such as ambient temperature.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 02:27:57 am
content: Quote from: Cubdriver on September 03, 2016, 01:56:49 amISO 200 and f10. I was sent away on a ~4500km work trip on short notice. Didn't have a laptop to download the images to and observe, so I wasn't very adventurous with experimentation. The shutter speed is auto-set ("TV-Shift" light metering) by the camera.

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 03:40:18 am
content: Quote from: TerraHertz on June 12, 2016, 01:15:15 pmThis is why it's worth supporting m4/3 or Micro Four Thirds. It's the only "open" camera system. Started by Olympus and Panasonic it's also supported by BlackMagic.It's a small format (compared to 35mm full frame or Medium), so it does have some drawbacks but I find it perfectly capable even for professional work. It has some advantages as well. Due to the aspect ratio the lenses tend to on average have very good edge to edge sharpness, the lenses are compact and Olympus IBIS (in body stabilization) is the best there is, thanks to a smaller sensor.

author: Kilrah
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 10:54:01 am
content: Lenses pretty much never have infinity focus either on the infinity mark nor on the end stop as there has to be some leeway for thermal expansion and manufacturing tolerances. You've always got to actually focus even for infinity shots.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 01:05:33 pm
content: That's the thing. The lens through which those photos were made is sharpest for distant subjects/objects at the end stop, which is also marked infinity. It won't get any closer let alone beyond. Ditto for the big Sicor.However some perspective is needed here. Those full-resolution crops I posted are a quite small proportion of each respective photo. The landscape images I get from this DSLR with my ~30 year old freebie glass is a fair level up from any non-SLR digital camera I've owned or currently own.My old telephoto glass doesn't leave me wanting as far as the in-focal-range stuff is concerned (especially the macro stuff), so if I'm going to spend bucks on a new (modern) lens it will be specifically for a wide-angle type for the landscape/scenery stuff.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 01:42:45 pm
content: Quote from: Cubdriver on September 03, 2016, 01:56:49 amCome to think of it, I shot the first two photos whilst sitting in a tinny (boat) moving at maybe 10 or 15 knots sideways to the scenery. I was standing quite still on terra firma when I shot the other two photos though. Perhaps that might account for some of the additional blurriness of the first two scenery images?

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 03:01:49 pm
content: Quote from: GK on September 03, 2016, 01:42:45 pmIt definitely could - camera shake tends to be more visible at high magnification (macro shots) and at longer focal lengths (such as the 70mm you were shooting at). The general rule of thumb I've heard and try to follow is that for handheld shots you should try to use a shutter speed that's the reciprocal of the focal length or faster - 1/50th or faster for a 50mm, 1/100th for a 100mm, etc. You can of course shoot at lower speeds, but then must be more careful to be still. And this applies to the focal length for 35mm frame size - since I believe your camera has the smaller sensor that effectively multiplies the effective FL of the lens, that's the number you'd need to use. Your 70mm acts like a 105mm.I'm not sure if the you meant the 200 you mentioned earlier as the ISO was in fact the shutter speed, but if it was that could certainly be marginal for steadiness at 105mm from a boat that's under way.And I too wonder about lens-to-sensor plane distance in your setup - as previously noted, infinity should not be a hard stop - the focus point should be a hair shy of the physical stop of the focus ring travel.-Pat