What multimeter should i get? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Ian
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2011, 12:55:12 pm
content: hiSo i just broke my CHEAP $3 meter. So i am looking for a new one. i found this one at jamcecohttp://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_645618_-1its nice but it only goes down to 200mA. Is that ok. i am just learning electronics but i wont to get more into it. i would like it to have a temperature sensor on top of all the other normal stuff. Also do i wont the ohm meter part to go below 200ohms? Also the meter needs to be sub $35. I am NOT rich so i can not afford a $50-$100 meter. here is the data sheet for the meterhttp://download.siliconexpert.com/pdfs/2009/10/18/9/14/28/913/xtch_/manual/mn35_mn36data.pdf

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 23, 2011, 01:33:39 pm
content: get an amprobe AM220and read around, there are alsready 2 topics currently on cheap multimeters

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2011, 03:17:51 pm
content: How about this:http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/8883This is the meter that Circuit Specialists gives away asa free gift with a large order, but you can order itby itself for $28.I keep giving them away to friends every time I place anorder, and they seem happy with it.I probably wouldn't use it on the mains, but for low voltagework, it seems to do OK. It's not going to replace either ofmy Fluke's, but it's definitely several steps up in qualityfrom the cheapest meters.On the other hand, you can occasionally pick up a meterfor $1.99 from Harbor Freight. It's worth almost every penny :-)Scott

author: Ian
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2011, 04:23:19 pm
content: thanks thats exactly what i wont. Any other suggestions?

author: Russel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2011, 06:59:28 pm
content: Grainger has a few Agilent meters marked down quite a bit. They might be worth considering the clearance price.The U1251A is marked down from $431.75 to $130.65while stock lasts.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2011, 07:51:23 pm
content: if you deal with HV? Fluke (i'm sure your life is much more worthy than your pocket money), but if only you deal with LV? Uni-T (specifically UT71A). my 2cents

author: Ian
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2011, 08:20:43 pm
content: Quote@russel Thanks thats is a good deal. but its still $130 thats a lot for a multimeter.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2011, 12:02:43 am
content: Quote from: Ian on March 23, 2011, 08:20:43 pmSome times , like this one, I am getting truly confused.This forum has the logo that indicates that is a place for electronic engineers,the most people who had join in, did it because Dave had made so many interesting product reviews,so to help us, by offering awareness .There is so many choices , that ends to the sub group of 50$ , and the up come are,that even the 50$ group , it is almost the entry level, with out sacrificing the basic protection that some one expects from an such an device.And another one poster needs something even cheaper and asks for an advice ? By saying I am NOT rich !!Dear friend this is not a club of rich people , and the price points of the multimeter's its fixed ,and depends in so many technical factors than likes .I do not have an opinion to offer about the bottom cheap instruments,but I like to listen how the ultra cheap that you got died .

author: insurgent
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2011, 03:13:14 am
content: Quote from: Russel on March 23, 2011, 06:59:28 pmThat's a damned good price! I've ordered the U1252A (The cool display on the '53 can't outweigh the 8 hour batter life!) and hope it makes it through. It'll be another 5 years before the B models will be on sale like this.I hope it last though, as it will take another 5 years before I get out of the dog house with the wife for spending $150 without maternal oversight!

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 24, 2011, 07:07:46 am
content: Quote from: Russel on March 23, 2011, 06:59:28 pmDamn, that is insanely CHEAP!Dave.

author: Ian
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2011, 07:43:38 pm
content: thanks all i think i might go with this one tell me your thoughtshere is it at radio shackhttp://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3623264and here is the specs for the meterhttp://www.extech.com/instruments/product.asp?catid=49&prodid=296and the pdf pagehttp://www.extech.com/instruments/resources/datasheets/MN15_MN16.pdfjust make shore you look at the specs for the mn16 model.

author: insurgent
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2011, 08:33:27 pm
content: Quote from: Ian on March 24, 2011, 07:43:38 pmHi Ian,For that price you may want to buy the meter that Radio Shack used to carry that used to run around $75. I have one and it's IMHO a very decent meter.The downside compared to the one you listed are that it can't accept a K type thermocouple directly. It has a temperature range but it's expecting 1mv/deg C via an adapter. The original adapter is no longer available but there are others out there (but they run $35 - $100) depending. If temp measurements are important to you, this may be a deal breaker. Also the max capacitance is 40µF vs 100µF on yours (but it has a 4 nF range).Otherwise, it's more accurate than the one you are looking at, has a higher input impedance (10M vs 7.8M), a 400mv DC range, does 1000V DC/750V AC and has an RS232 interface. It also has that all-important transistor testerThe manual is here:http://support.radioshack.com/manuals/ome22-812.pdfYou can get them new in box on EBay for $24.99 + $13.93 and they have "Make offer" enabled so you may be able to get it for less. Just don't bid $15 because I tried that and they didn't acceptI was just looking for a second meter like the one I has so I could perform simultaneous voltage/current measurements. Now I'm hoping to score one of the Agilents.http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-PC-INTERFACE-46-RANGE-DIGITAL-MULTIMETER-/250781211869Of course, others on here smarter than myself may know of a reason *not* to get the 22-812!Good luck

author: Ian
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2011, 08:39:37 pm
content: thanks

author: Ian
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2011, 08:53:18 pm
content: HiWhat about this one?http://cgi.ebay.com/Mastech-MS8233B-Digital-Multimeter-AC-Voltage-Detector-/200590239627?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb41c278b#ht_3521wt_1139or this onehttp://cgi.ebay.com/VC97-3999-Autorange-multimeter-compared-w-FLUKE-15B-New-/180642851154?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a0f272952#ht_2643wt_905or this onehttp://cgi.ebay.com/New-VC97-4000-Auto-range-multimeter-compared-w-FLUKE-/180642863317?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a0f2758d5#ht_2431wt_905or this onehttp://cgi.ebay.com/MS8221-Auto-range-multimeter-compared-FLUKE-15B-light-/170557168510?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b5ffdb7e#ht_2435wt_905or this onehttp://cgi.ebay.com/VC6243-Multimeter-Inductance-Capacitance-compared-Fluke-/190512715945?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item2c5b7158a9#ht_4197wt_905or this onehttp://cgi.ebay.com/MS8221-Auto-range-multimeter-compared-FLUKE-15B-light-/300501515151?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f7493b8f#ht_2449wt_949

author: buffalo960
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2011, 02:25:07 am
content: Quote from: Russel on March 23, 2011, 06:59:28 pmJust ordered one of these. Hope it gets here

author: reagle
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 25, 2011, 03:14:11 am
content: Hmm, 1251 through 1253 are all on clearance, which one do i get that is Da question

author: insurgent
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2011, 03:32:05 am
content: Quote from: Ian on March 24, 2011, 08:53:18 pmIan: I wouldn't get that MS8233B, VC6243 ; There's no reason to get a non-autoranging meter these days. Just frustration for you and unnecessary wear and tear on your selector switch.The VC6243 is an LCR meter so you are going to be missing out on voltage and frequency measurement capabilities.The MS8221 looks OK feature-wise. The accuracy is a less than the Radio Shack I suggested.The VC97-3999 seems to me to be the best out of the lot. Comes with some nice looking leads and a temperature probe. Spec-wise the accuracy seem to be about the same as the RS and adds a 20A AC/DC range, 200µF range and does 30MHz in the frequency range. What's interesting is that "RS232" shows on the display in the pictures but there is no mention of it in the specs and there doesn't appear to be a port for it. Perhaps it has potential hackability once you decide to void the warranty??

author: reagle
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 25, 2011, 04:13:03 am
content: Watched both blogs episodes on 1253 and went with 1252. I can get a pretty screen on something else, does not need to be a DMMI ordered a couple- if I end up not needing two, I may offer one for sale to somebody outside US who can't get on this deal.

author: toli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2011, 10:23:26 am
content: Hi Guys,I want to order one 1252 using this clearance sell as well. I've noticed they require a company name, since I'm a student I don't have a company name, does this mean they wont sell to me?Any chance one of the members here is willing to help out with ordering (obviously I will cover all charges. but seems they wont sell to non US residents), if anyone is willing to help, please let me know.Thank you,

author: grenert
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2011, 12:25:47 pm
content: Just fill in your name again, or "none" in that blank.

author: toli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2011, 12:31:11 pm
content: Thank you. Unfortunately they only ship to the US, and I'm not from the US. If anyone can help me with the ordering process I'll greatly appreciate it.

author: guy2600
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 31, 2011, 09:02:16 pm
content: Just bought the 1253, thanks for the tip :-)

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2011, 11:22:33 am
content: Still a number of those 1253a left, surprising, but the other models sold fast; I wonder how many were forum readers?

author: Excavatoree
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2011, 02:45:58 pm
content: I thought those would be the first to go. Of course, we have no idea how many they had of each.

author: metalphreak
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2011, 04:29:15 pm
content: The U1253A is all over ebay now. Everyone is trying to cash in and make a profit on them (except for Dave ofcourse, he got his way before the sale)U1253A is out of stock at Grainger now despite still being listed. I was going to order one using PriceUSA

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2011, 05:03:13 pm
content: Yes, noticed that the number of 1253a available seems coincidental with the Grainger deal. But if you're in the market for one, Grainger's price is unbeatable but its product offerings arenotindexed on google. If you search on the grainger deal the only link to it is eevblog at least in the first 10 pages of returns.Quote from: metalphreak on April 01, 2011, 04:29:15 pm

author: Excavatoree
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2011, 08:27:05 pm
content: Quote from: metalphreak on April 01, 2011, 04:29:15 pmSelling a meter is against my religion.(Yes, I've done it, but they were sold to friends at low prices - I consider that "missionary work" to spread the gospel of Fluke)

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2011, 08:33:56 pm
content: Quote from: Ian on March 24, 2011, 08:53:18 pmWhat do they mean compared FLUKE 15B? Does that mean it's a Fluke or it supposedly has the same specification/quality as a Fluke? I suspect it's a scam. They're not Flukes and they're using the trademark illegally. The meters might be fine for working with small batteries but i wouldn't hook one up to the three phase.

author: baljemmett
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 01, 2011, 09:02:51 pm
content: Quote from: Hero999 on April 01, 2011, 08:33:56 pmTypically 'just' a way to get more visibility in search results -- see also laptops with "NOT Dell, HP, Lenovo" and lenses with "like Canon, Nikkor, Sony" in the listings. Gah.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 01, 2011, 09:20:25 pm
content: Probably also to let unsuspecting buyers think it's actually a Fluke they're buying.

author: toli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2011, 10:19:58 am
content: did anyone else notice they've removed the meters from the website?They've also removed the order from order-history, is this just me or its the same with everyone?BTW, I've ended up ordering the 1253a using a company that gave me a US bases shipping address, the item should arrive to me in a few days.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2011, 12:45:32 pm
content: Just checked, u1253a is still there and my order history is intact, it might clear if you did not make an account or never ordered it.Quote from: toli on April 02, 2011, 10:19:58 am

author: toli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2011, 01:12:16 pm
content: I did make an account. If fact it was already received in the US address I've received for TNT, and is already on route to Israel.I guess they've removed it after the UPS package has been signed for.EDIT: strange, when I search for "u1253a" I can't find it, but with "3REA6" I see it on their website. Still not in my order history, I'll just send them an email and ask them directly.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2011, 01:53:47 pm
content: I don't know, but I presume you're accessing your account from an Israeli IP address? Maybe its being blocked. My location is USA so all is well, just an FYI.Quote from: toli on April 02, 2011, 01:12:16 pm

author: toli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2011, 02:03:13 pm
content: I doubt it, I've ordered using the same addressI've also tried printing a .txt file with the order history (using their website), and the order appears there. I've sent them an email, I'll know why its not showing up there once i get their response.

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2011, 02:38:44 pm
content: My Grainger order has disappeared as well and Idid create an account.My UPS package hasn't been signed for, butit was in Hodgkins, IL yesterday. I never couldpull up my order status either, being told I wasunauthorized. But a quick email to them got methe order status and the UPS #. Still, Grainger'swhole ecommerce experience seems a little wonky.They do seem mostly set up to cater to businesses,not individuals, so maybe that's tripping something upafter I listed my company name as "hobbyist".Anyone know what the backstory is? Why are$450 Agilent meters being closed out? Something newcoming out? I would have been suspicious to orderif this had been buycheapmultimeters.com :-)Scott

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2011, 04:52:39 pm
content: Hmm, something is wrong then. I guess I rated them a bit more positively because I received the unit in 2 business days, FWIW.I did not get tracking numbers nor notification which carrier they used, checking my order status came up 'unauthorized' but I did get 1 confirmation email; my CC was charged the next day so I knew it went through.But, overall I'd assess them as 3/5 and buyer beware as wonky is right[ good term!]; if it weren't for the low price grainger.com comes up with sometimes, they aren't on my list of preferred vendors.The units described by purchasers on eevblog show expired or soon to expire cal certificates and are over 2+ years old from manufacture date. They at least, read like overstock. By contrast the Rigol 1052e [ released in 2008/9] I bought was in my hands <~ 4 months [ early 2010] from the original manufacture date [ and not 2008 or 9].Quote from: slburris on April 02, 2011, 02:38:44 pm

author: urbanwriter
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2011, 04:13:42 am
content: Dave (and a couple others)This is all your fault - I never would have spent the loot for an Agilent U1251A (and I didn't get the $US price) without your hectoring - and now I have a meter that will drive me nuts. Imagine, my Fluke 77 was so in demand when new that there was a waiting list at the distributor, put your cash down and wait in line was the drill. After years of faithful service, decades in actual fact, it went in for a wee bit of work. I don't know the rules on plugging a particular metrology lab, so rather than get 'corrected,' I'll wait. But they did a great job of bringing a sadly out of tolerance meter back well within original specification. All well and good.But I've also been following the endless 'what meter should a beginner get' threads and I know that some people are too lazy to look around, see what's there, and make their own choice. And I know that people get tired of answering 'the question' again, and again, and again. But there is one thing that seems 'forgotten' by some.Life was, once, easy. There were analog meters. There were good ones. They cost a lot of money. There were bad ones. They didn't cost so much. But there were never thousands of variations.Now Fluke offers some 30 different meters, in different lines, capabilities, species. At least. And Agilient - oh, by my count , some 27 meters or meters/kit. I'm not going to count all the meters I can find, but one vendors first page is instructive: there are 60 different meters, and not one is Fluke, Dranetz, Agilent, or Tek. And I didn't notice more than one or two UNI-T meters...The advice, well meant, is to 'get what you need.' Great. If I bought today, what I needed 30 years ago, it would be a Simpson. Fantastic meter. Tough. Accurate. Rebuildable. Today it is more or less junk - it doesn't do capacitance, it doesn't resolve to pico-amps, it doesn't count frequency, or any of the dozens of really handy things that meters do. And, with experience, you get a little handle on 'what you need,' but I'm just getting back in to a field that I left when telephone exchanges required day-in, day-out, relay filing. And god help you if your Telstar medallion started flirting with the switch-gear while you were on a ladder. Ouch. Idiot child.Now I'm back. And I looked for a new meter, literally, for months. Why months? Well. I like to play with inductors of various forms, doing various jobs. I've never touched an SMT part in my life - but they seem the way things are going - perhaps I'll buy a truckload of through-hole components before they're all declared obsolete. Do I get this one - measures, after a fashion, femto-amps. Or that one over there with the really bright yellow case. Or the red/gray one that the local, somewhat dusty, parts house handles. And what if I want to measure 10 A. And can I stand to live with 50,000 counts. What's data-logging? And which one comes with test-leads I'd trust my life to?The answer to all this is in my hand: I'm the new, and slightly dazzled, owner of an Agilent U1251A. Why that meter? Because, like other variations on 'beginner,' I gave up. I can delete a variety of Fluke meters from my list, but it is really difficult to determine which single meter will actually 'do' the job. So, when I walked in to an alternate supplier that had the U1251A (rather than the U3257 b MK 3a) in stock, on sale, in front of me, I went for it.And it's all your fault. So, while I love your videos, and appreciate your gripes with people who complain about 'how you should have done' some particular topic, reserve a small sympathy for those who inquire (after endless searching) 'what should I buy.'And I hope this winds up in the right spot in the queueDamn, that is insanely CHEAP!Dave.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2011, 04:46:26 am
content: Quote from: urbanwriter on April 03, 2011, 04:13:42 amWell I belong to the others ... and I had read before an hour ago,and message that proves that Agilent , has an terrible and poor behavior in everything haves to do with customer support.And some people will say who cares, but I do ,and so no matter how you feel about your DMM ,the truth is that if you come to the point to face Agilent customers support,the most possible will be to regret the moment that you had take it.Now if we speak about the price point " Cheap " ,well get two if possible .. if your first gets damaged and needs to be send to Agilent,you will be 12 weeks with out it.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2011, 01:02:31 pm
content: @Kiriakos: yes, its at the DMM.s thread. Sorry to hear about their product quality and you are right.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=2306.msg40035#msg40035@urbanwriter: glad you are joining our electronics zen! FWIW I've been putting the 1252a through its paces, and it has many superior features over the Fluke 87V; its principal drawback is ergonomics over the 87V. It didn't try to copy Fluke, as lesser meters do, they tend to 'work a like' a Fluke, even look like it. The Agilent has many design elements to make it say its not a Fluke clone, and more like a meter that will stand on its own merits. No wonder Agilent bought the Escort DMM folks, they had good engineers and ideas.So far, its best features:Fast measurements, and rock stable, except the last digit, which now requires some metrological technique, but it was shocking to see that in a low cost field meter, the last digit isn't just random fluctuations.>10x more accurate in Vac TRMS > 100kHz, Fluke's capacity is best at <= 1kHz, tested with sine, sq, and triangle waveforms.Higher frequency limit on its counterDual display: when doing the tests, I could view Hz and Vac simultaneously, that helped confirm what my generator was doing.Logging, I find it more helpful every day [ I used to pencil a value now and then, now I can just hit a button, rather than simply HOLD to latch a value the write it down.]While the battery life is lower than Fluke 87V, its fairly easy to charge it and the LCD version will give you a full working day, in excess of 8 hours ON continuously, with power to spare. So, I just charge it when I'm done with it, or when the battery is down 50% [ it has a user checkable battery voltmeter.]Testing continues, my comparison meter is an bench HP3456a accurate to 10uV, the signal source is an Instek SFG 1003 stable to < 20 ppm, 0.01% resistors, etc.,

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2011, 02:04:00 am
content: My u1253a from Grainger arrived today. Sep 14 2009 calibration date.Love the OLED display! At $450 list, there was no real reason I couldjustify buying it. At $140, there's still no good reason, but I found myselfunable to resist the deal. Also love the update rate on this meter!Started out trying to turn it on. Nothing. Well, probably the rechargeablebattery had spent a couple years in a warehouse. So I plugged in the charger.Did it's usual 10 second to testing countdown, then said overload and stayed ona 3 minute countdown.So I find the battery is wrapped and not connected in the compartment. Fairenough, but how about putting a message up about no battery inserted insteadof the unhelpful "overload"? Does no one at Agilent think about user interface?Put the battery in, went through the count down and 3 minute self test, then it says"charge error". The battery icon shows full. OK, I try the meter with just the batteryand now it powers up and works. Woohoo! After about 5 minutes, the battery showsdischarged and powers down.OK, so now I'm going to try several charge/discharge cycles to try to wake the battery up.If that fails, I'll toss the battery and go find a better one. If I had paid $450, I wouldhave already given Agilent a demerit. Since it was heavily discounted, and probably satfor 2 years because the price was too high, I'm giving them half a demerit.Did I say I love this display. I can read it with no excuses.Scott

author: toli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2011, 05:09:05 am
content: Hi Scott,I've had exactly the same issue! Keep us posted as to how long the battery lasts.BTW, mine was calibrated on November 19th 2009, so looks like they are about the same.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 07, 2011, 09:15:58 am
content: This whole U1253A story is rather interesting.I remember getting absolutely hammered by all and sundry (those who had never used one BTW) at the time of my review for giving this meter a qualified thumbs up.Yet, now everyone has one they seem to have nothing but praise for it (apart from the battery thing of course).Can I claim this one as a "I told you so"?Dave.

author: gobblegobble
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2011, 09:31:22 am
content: Quote from: slburris on April 07, 2011, 02:04:00 amMay I suggest checking the manual, specifically the part related to battery recharging where it tells you that the "over limit" means that the battery values measured aren't within limits: either too high or too low voltage to be fit for recharging. In this case, zero volts due to no battery.QuoteI'm guessing it's too old, and cheap to begin with battery that's taken it's toll for the years of storage? You're not the only one having trouble getting the battery working. It was discounted after all (although I do agree they should mention the cal cert is no longer valid and the battery is probably dead).Edit added:Quote from: Agilent Manual

author: PetrosA
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2011, 01:19:52 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on April 07, 2011, 09:15:58 amI'd say you canIt seems to me that a lot of the negative feedback then was due to Fluke's brand image in so many consumers' minds. For a lot of people then (and even now...) it wasn't possible that a new kid on the block could be giving Fluke a run for their money. In reality, Agilent is doing just that with some useful innovations, good quality and relatively decent price point. They do need to work on customer service (stories like the 12 week wait for service are ridiculous), but if they can fix that they'll gain a lot of customers.I wasn't brand loyal when I came here, and your review of the Agilent back then kept me open enough that I ultimately got two Agilents.Now, as you said, "everybody has one"

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2011, 01:45:04 pm
content: Quote from: gobblegobble on April 07, 2011, 09:31:22 amSo in this day and age where they don't actually give you a paper manual,and knowing human nature to just turn things on, I'd like better ergonomics.They have a nice graphical display to put out a decent message, darn it, use it!I did get a nice sheet of paper from Agilent saying how happy they were that Ihad made the wise decision to choose Agilent products. If they want to saveon paper, how about eliminating that instead of the manual? :-)I'm just grumbling that companies should spend much more time thinking aboutthe human interface than they do. I should be able to pick something upand without instruction be able to figure out basic operation. And for the most part,this meter meets that criteria.Scott

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2011, 02:45:46 pm
content: Its price vs performance; Agilent could reduce prices, temporarily or for a limited time, when introducing new products so it can establish a reputation quickly. It could even make mandatory those getting special prices to write a review, or they will be billed the difference in the discountOnce real world reviews by field users are out it will have a reputation, good or bad; [ which is, despite eevblog, the prinicipal way equipment recommendations still get made]; normal reviews from field users spread by word of mouth and take a long time; a low price can help buyers prioritize a cheaper untested new design, particularly if its as low as 60% off its list and competitors price, even if temporary for +/- alimitedtime. Its better than just relying of spec sheets and 'believe me' testimonials.I suspect its a key reason a good number of eevblog users who read the Grainger deal here, even if we didn't need another DMM, opted for one, and now we know Agilent DMMs better than just an external review, and find some niche for it to fill.That said, the 1252a is a great meter for $140, but if price were equal the Fluke 87V is still better for general purpose. I'm finding new quirks as I use it more, nothing serious but annoying. Maybe these are fixed in the 1270 series.Here's one of the worst. Sent via my phone, so forgive the quality.In the end, if you own a Fluke, a Gossen Metrawatt and an Agilent OLED, what you end up reaching for on reflex is the one that appeals to you in so many ways, and .. well the one that doesn't seem to meet your standards, even if its a good DMM in its own right, ends up in eBay.Quote from: PetrosA on April 07, 2011, 01:19:52 pm

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2011, 02:18:18 pm
content: Re-reviewing Dave's video from 2010 on the 1253a, it spot on, and sums up what others on eevblog have also concluded. Its a great meter, and the OLED is nice as a bench-style meter in a portable's clothing, but it does have flaws to preclude its use for field use over other competitor DMMs.The LCD 1252a is not too far behind either as its too sensitive for field work, and the super fast reading speed is tempered by its extreme sensitivity, thus the last 2-3 digits can take more time to settle in noisy electrical environments; it needs a filter setting like the 87V or you'll be using the minmaxavg function a lot to smooth out the raw reading.

author: gobblegobble
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2011, 08:48:02 pm
content: Pardon the thinned out quoting, as I don't want to make a mile long post by quotes alone.Quote from: slburris on April 07, 2011, 01:45:04 pmFor the display being underused I wholly agree with you and Dave, they didn't really use much any of the possibilities it has over the U1252A's segmented display which is a real shame. Partially though it makes me much more content with my purchase choice of U1252A over the U1253A.Quote from: saturation on April 07, 2011, 02:45:46 pmWow. So Fluke is sensitive to GSM and Agilent is sensitive to static...The advatage might be at Agilent though as they're still brushing up their line of products and can (plus hopefully will) fix annoying features like that on a new model which comes out sooner than later. Fluke doesn't refresh their line nearly as often and radically so it could take a while to see a "GSM proof" 87 come out.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2011, 10:19:13 am
content: Yes, it shows Agilent engineers still have room to improve in ergonomics in DMMs, were Fluke excels.One should try to make devices operable without a manual as much as possible, all that's needed is exploration of the buttons and labels on the device. To see how far we've come from lack of intuition, watch the evolution of well respected, venerable, but difficult to operate without the manual, pre-Agilent HP test equipment.While the basic DMM functions are easily deciphered, where the 1252a excels is its advanced functions, and that isn't exactly intuitive. Also, making letter readouts on the 8 segment LCD is a challenge alone, and some letters just don't come through. Also, while the setup controls seems intuitive at first, try setting the ambient temp readout from Celsius to Fahrenheit, only the manual explains it.Given that electronics has shrunk is size and weight over the years, the fixed size and weight of paper increasingly becomes a sizable part of items boxed with the product, if they printed the whole manual like the old days.Agilent manuals are clean, easy to read and direct but a notch less hello-kitty friendly as Fluke 87V manual.Quote from: gobblegobble on April 08, 2011, 08:48:02 pm

author: toli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2011, 10:53:00 am
content: The 1253 is actually pretty easy to use. I've used quite a few of its functions without having to open the manual. Plus, since it has a great OLED display, the setup is very easy to navigate through and to change settings. I believe that's one of the things the OLED makes easier in comparison to the standard display.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2011, 12:43:51 pm
content: Yes, that's wonderful toli, but then the flip side is they downplayed battery life, or OLED in sunlight. Seems like overall its best as a pseudo-bench meter for indoor use.Quote from: toli on April 09, 2011, 10:53:00 am

author: toli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2011, 01:11:12 pm
content: AgreedI was going to purchase the 1252 as well since I didn't see much use in an OLED screen for a DMM. But turns out its a great feature for me, and I'm glad the 1252 was out of stock which made me go for the 1253. I don't use the DMM for long periods of time without pauses. Even if I'm working on a project, I'm only using the DMM for a small period of time before going back to soldering/testing. So the battery will probably last quite some time with my type of use. Plus, all my work is done indoors so I can really enjoy the OLED display.Yes, for people who use their DMM extensively, the 1253 won't last long enough. On the other hand, the 1252 only lasts about 36 hours according to the data sheet, which is quite low as well.At the end its a matter what your needs are. For me the 1253 turned out to be great, as it answers allmyneeds. And for the price there's nothing I would like more. In fact, I really don't see anything wrong with it formyneeds. But as everything else, it is subjective.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2011, 04:14:06 pm
content: There is an Agilent white paper about how to buy DMMs, and it makes a good point. The market is so saturated with meters, that the real difference between each is how you can best maximize its use for one's personal need, in terms of workflow. Like personalizing a smartphone or a PC, one needn't settle for one interface or size for all, but increasingly find a specific meter with features that fill your niche better to make you work easier.Based on this idea, one can keep introducing new DMMs, each with an added very subtle difference, address thus just that niche for a particular use, This philosophy seems to be in their DMM family, were the differences between each are small, including basic accuracy.

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2011, 05:02:44 pm
content: I've now had a few days with my 1253, and I have to say this meterhas a serious chance of displacing my 87-V as my primary meter. I'veused it several times in low light situations, and there's just nocomparing a backlit LCD display to the OLED display. It's justextremely readable in any indoor situation I've tried it in.On the subject of batteries, I'm betting the battery shipped withthe meter isn't going to last long, so I'm looking for a replacement.I've become a fan of the low self discharge NiMH batteries.However, while I use the Sanyo Eneloop for AA and AAA, theydon't seem to make 9V. Anyone tried the Tenergy 9v?http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Centura-Self-Discharge-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B003QUNYQIScott

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2011, 05:30:37 pm
content: So am I, there are several 9v varieties with 8, 7 or 6 1.2v cells in them, so their working voltage is 9.6, 8.4 and 7.2 [ the one that shipped with the 1252a]. Higher cost with more cells, LSD more than regular NiMH.What I see is if you use the meter a lot, LSD doesn't matter; but if you want it working when you want it, and have infrequent use, the LSD are preferable as it will hold a charge longer during storage. However, since the 9V rechargeable have lower mAH, their runtimes are shorter than alkaline, so a higher working voltage will keep the meter running a touch longer than simply mAH.Let us know how you fair! I still have a stock of non-LSD 9V NiMH so it'll be awhile before I buy a new set.http://www.amazon.com/PowerEx-IMEDION-Low-Self-Discharge-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B004NVVPJC/ref=sr_1_22?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1302370012&sr=1-22Quote from: slburris on April 09, 2011, 05:02:44 pm

author: toli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2011, 06:02:08 pm
content: Keep us updated. I want to order another battery (put it in the Aligent, and use the one supplied with Agilent for my second DMM) and not sure which will last longer.

author: gobblegobble
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2011, 10:33:30 pm
content: I recall reading that you'd need only one week of inactivity with non-LSD AAs to reach equal charge to LSD version. No idea whether 9v cells do better or worse, but a week sure does sound awfully short period at least with my typical DMM usage.As for the 9.6, 8.4 and 7.2 volts, only supported options according to the manual are 8.4 and 7.2. I'm sceptical to whether one should be worried of damage due to the higher voltage, but more of a concerned to the inbuilt charged to not properly charge the 9.6 volt battery as the charging settings only include 8.4 and 7.2 volt options.Anyone got an opinion onthese? I've gotten recommendation on them but haven't used myself any...

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2011, 09:56:54 am
content: Yes, that's important, see bold item. Right now that's all I'd buy, because the manual says so. So far, most 9V NiMH sold are 7.2V. I think its prudent to choose either 8.4, or 7.2 and the only other choice is whether its LSD or standard NiMH, LSD is about 2x the cost of standard NiMH. At worst, the 1252a charger will cutoff prematurely, so the 9.6V cell is undercharged since it also does dv/dt cutoff sensing.If you use the meter at least weekly, choose standard. If rarely, choose LSD. The battery linked is a bit expensive and it doesn't say LSD.If you don't know which to buy, get LSD. I just bought a set of Tenergy 9V 200mAH LSDs for $25 for 4 + a 9v charger from Amazon. I'll see if I can migrate away from alkaline on my other DMMs given LSDs capabilities.A good source for batteries [ lots of choices of brands and great prices]http://www.thomasdistributing.com/9V-Batteries_c_669.htmlIf you don't get free shipping from Amazon, see these folks.Quote from: gobblegobble on April 09, 2011, 10:33:30 pm

author: Tony R
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2011, 02:51:24 am
content: I found this one, It sounds pretty good but I'm not sure, its a little over your $35 price range but it will work...http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digital-multimeter-98674.html

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2011, 05:25:05 am
content: Quote from: Tony R on April 11, 2011, 02:51:24 amLooks like a re-badged Mastech.QuoteTypicall chinese crap.

author: Russel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2011, 06:41:36 am
content: Dave's video blogs have really done a service to those of us that aren’t electronic engineers. (At the very lease...Me.) The reason that I say that is that after seeing multimeters explode, and Dave explaining the reason for the high energy fuses in multimeters in the equipment reviews, I have become much more safety conscious. I never really though much of measuring mains with a cheap multimeter, but I do now. A cheap multimeter may be OK to see if an AA cell is dead, but I won't go anywhere near the main with one again. I've got good, safe multimeters, and now use them all the time. Never again will I purchase a cheap (and in my opinion) unsafe multimeter.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2011, 11:29:54 am
content: A simple solution is to go to Grainger.com, an industrial supplier. They only list items of known reputation.http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/AMPROBE-Digital-Multimeter-1WKN4?Pid=searchFrom there, you can choose among reputable brands in the industrial/electrical field. The prices aren't the best, but some are on sale, like linked above. That website only sells to US buyers, and does not include state tax and shipping costs.You can do better in terms of specs, for price/performance by shopping elsewhere, but at least now you've narrowed the field to key players and models.

author: slimm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 14, 2011, 02:54:17 am
content: Did you check out Sears? And Home Depot carries several low end Sperry meters. I also noticed Loews is now carrying some Amprobe meters. I picked up an Amprobe AM 240 at one of my hvac supply houses for $24.00 recently good luck!

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2011, 01:40:57 pm
content: I can confirm, the tenergy batteries are great for its price, I haven't tested its LSD capacity well enough; I let a few 9v set for a month and test terminal voltage, but so far its better than ordinary LSD as is, so its worth it.I got the $25+$5s/h charger + 4 battery deal, its the best bang for buck in cost from Amazon, see link. Working voltage is 8.4Vdc.http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Charger-Self-discharge-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00461DNTO/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1303306941&sr=1-4Charger is better than the simple timer chargers I have, has dV/dt cutoff and 5 hours max charge timer, and its small: the perimeter and thickness of 3x9V placed side by side.Battery construction quality is high, much better than the GP 9v shipped with the 1252a.Quote from: slburris on April 09, 2011, 05:02:44 pm

author: toli
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2011, 02:00:10 pm
content: Thank you for the update.Did you try charging them in the Agilent? Was there any issue with the fact its 7-cells and not 6-cells like the stock battery is?Any comparison in terms of battery life inside the Agilent between this one and the stock battery?

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2011, 02:48:47 pm
content: Hi Toli,Yes, charged in the Agilent 1252a, no problem. The battery maintains higher output voltage over a week compared to the stock battery, despite the tenergy being only 200mA vs 300mA for the GP battery. But I haven't had a month of use yet, so its premature, but so far its great.The manual states 8.4Vdc cells are OK, so its a reason I bought them, I'm unsure of the 8 cell batteries, but the tenergy NiMH are cheapest I've noticed [ thanks to slburris], about $6 each."List of compatible batteries for the Agilent U1252A :• 7.2V 300mAH Ni-MH Rechargeable battery, 9V size• 8.4V 300mAH Ni-MH rechargeable battery, 9V size• 9V Alkaline non-chargeable battery (ANSI/NEDA 1604A or IEC 6LR61)• 9V Carbon-zinc non-chargeable battery (ANSI/NEDA 1604D or IEC6F22)"Quote from: toli on April 20, 2011, 02:00:10 pm

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2011, 07:35:10 pm
content: Some interesting Tenergy LSD NiMH 9V vs GP 9V standard NiMH battery data.Over the past 2 weeks, the average discharge of the batteries are:Tenergy: 9mV/dayGP: 33mV/dayThe tenergy data is consistent across 3 quiescent batteries and their rate of self discharge is nearly identical, measured with a 6.5 digit 3456a.All batteries were charged to full via the tenergy charger, and will be allowed to self discharge over a month. I anticipate self-discharge rate will slow down further as time passes but even if not, the tenergy are worth the cost despite having lower mAH.

author: hannobisschoff
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2011, 10:58:46 pm
content: Hi Ian, now I'm the guy that asked a similar question right before you, I got my "problem" solved by buying a second-hand fluke for a VERY good price. Now first of all, I'd like to apologize to the members who must be quite fed-up with this question by now. (I only discovered the bunch of reviews Dave did a bit too late). The awnser is simple: Don't be scared of 2nd-hand high end meters, and "GET SOMETHING DECENT FROM THE START."Good Luck.Hanno.

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2011, 01:35:05 am
content: How's the long term Tenergy test going?I think I'll place the same Amazon order for some to try out.I still really like this Agilent meter. Would I have paid $450 for itover a Fluke? No. But at the Grainger sale price, this was reallya no brainer.Still waiting for the great Grainger spectrum analyzer sale :-)Scott

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2011, 11:31:32 am
content: Very well and impressive for no name batteries. I will post new discharge values later; its got a logarithmic curve; the daily discharge rate is dropping with time so its starting to plateau.The Agilent issue GP 9V is also slowing down but the overall discharge rate is still 5x higher.Since I put the tenergy in the 1252a the battery indicator has remained at full for nearly 2 weeks; on the GP it would drop in days and I recharged it once a week!Its a definite buy. I am just characterizing its performance. I think you can safety replace all your 9V alkalines with this type.Its actually so good it should squeek a lot more hours out of the OLED version to make it much more practical a unit.BTW the 9V charger it comes with is sweet too; fast charging, good annunciators RED= charging GREEN = DONE. I think it flashes when something is wrong, but I haven't seen that yetQuote from: slburris on May 10, 2011, 01:35:05 am

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2011, 04:50:22 pm
content: Saturation,How are the discharge rates on the Tenergy batteries looking now?I think I'm about to pull the trigger and get some of these for my 1252.A little off topic, but have you ever compared the Sanyo Eneloop AA's againstthe Tenergy equivalent? I'm thinking if they did a good job with the 9v battery,they may be worth a look for AA and AAA LSD batteries as well.Luckily they are all available from Amazon -- If you can't buy it at Amazon, it probablyshouldn't be bought :-)Scott

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2011, 06:42:26 pm
content: Hi scott,I posted it elsewhere online, my apologies, I forgot here, here's a paraphrase:The packaging and products build quality are first rate, as good as name brands like Energizer or Duracell.ChargerIt not only shuts off based on reaching the final voltage, but has a backup timer to prevent overcharging. It works as described with the LED being RED when charging, and turning green when charge completed. The charger is very small and pocket sized.BatteryThe end charge voltage of these cells are 9.7V, so one can be sure its anything but a 6 cell 9v.I was skeptical whether these batteries were truly low self discharge. After 1 mo since I charged 3 tenergy batteries and the Agilent supplied 9V together, and after this time, the standard NiMH has self discharged to 8V while these cells are still 9.7V!The discharge curve is a decaying natural log, and measured to uV levels you can track uV drops daily until it plateaus at 9.7V.The higher number of cells on these Tenergy unfortunately makes the battery meter on the Agilent less helpful, as it appears full all the time, until its near its end, then the graph drops fairly quickly and the low bat icon appears.I did compare the tenergy 9V against eneloop 1.25V AA cells, the eneloops have an edge in retention over time, but its fairly small. But strictly speaking that's 9V vs 1.25V and things could be different for the construction of 1.25V AA tenergy cells. You'd have to weigh the cost difference.I noticed someone [ tenergy?] posted comparative data at Amazon. Here's an important one, total charge/discharge cycles, and they are fairly close. This is fairly extreme use, discharging at 1C continuously will shorten the cell life, but good testing!NB: The 1252a is a fantastic DMM. Great for home labs, fast, accurate, I use it more than my other DMMs and the 1272a I have on tests. One side issue for me is the rubber coating on the body is flaking off mine, and it isn't a year old, its mostly on the hand contact areas and particularly on the rotary knob. The beep is wimpy, but otherwise a great DMM.Quote from: slburris on August 09, 2011, 04:50:22 pm

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2012, 03:38:07 pm
content: I moved my Agilent meter to the Tenergy 9v about 5 months ago, and I'vebeen very happy with the results.Scott

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2012, 03:56:05 pm
content: Glad to hear it, same here, I use the tenergy centura 9V on the 1252a and it rocks. Battery life is far less an issue now because the self discharge rate is negligible and the only time I need to charge it depends on how much I use it. Its perfect for it except for the low bat meter. BTW the AA and AAA tenergy centura are quite good too, now almost a year since I got them.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2012, 07:59:49 pm
content: Thanks for the long term studysaturation. Sounds like I'll have to pick up a couple of Tenma's in the near future.Same meter BTW (1252B), and though it wasn't picked up on Grainger's sale, I still got it at a good price due to a $100 rebate (added a lot of value to it vs. Fluke 287/9 FVF, especially since it came with a Cal Cert and only needed a $30 cable to connect it to a computer).

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 12, 2012, 07:16:08 am
content: If you are not interested to take a $400 multimeter you should get an Agilent U1231A: it's TRMS, got and cost only $115.Or another way is to bought another chinese meter.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2012, 11:31:04 am
content: you're welcome, you mean tenergy LSD batteries? I corrected my post make sure its centura, the LSD variant. Tenergy makes ordinary NiMH and alkaline batteries too. One thing nice about the Agilent meters is its easier to self calibrate, you can adjust just one range rather than the whole DMM as the Fluke 87V.Quote from: nanofrog on September 11, 2012, 07:59:49 pm

author: perfect_disturbance
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2012, 04:35:28 pm
content: So I Noticed that right now you can get a new Agilent U1242B for 203 on metrictest.com and Agilent is offering a free U1177A IR to Bluetooth module (keep in mind with the 1240 series you need to get the $10 U1179A mounting bracket) with purchase. That's 286 dollars of stuff for 214.Is that a very good deal?Is the U1242b a very good meter?

author: T4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2012, 06:08:05 pm
content: Not a very good meter but you will be hardpressed to get a fluke at that price.Frequently flukes that appear on ebay aren't worth the money compared to the Agilent or it's a scam.Well the 87V can go on for 200$ but hey. Don't be afraid to try something new

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2012, 06:51:03 pm
content: Quote from: saturation on September 12, 2012, 11:31:04 amYes. Sorry about that.Quote from: saturation on September 12, 2012, 11:31:04 amHadn't gotten into this yet, so I hadn't noticed. Would be useful though if I ever get to the point I need to cal the thing myself, as calibration fees are a bit pricey when it's my money.

author: perfect_disturbance
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2012, 01:48:59 am
content: So I ordered the Agilent u1242b today. But they said the USB adapter was back ordered because of the promotion should be arriving in another couple weeks. I decided on the Agilent. Because I think the wireless logging to my phone would be really useful.

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2014, 05:24:16 am
content: Gee has it been two years since my last post on this topic?Just wanted to say that the Tenergy 9v continue to work well, even after misplacing my agilent meter in a box for many months.On the AA front, I have a mix of Eneloop, Amazon, and Tenergy and they all seem to work well, but I think I would give an edge to the Sanyo Envelops in general.Scott