USB & Bluetooth -> Serial adapter modules...  What's everybody's "Go To" module? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2013, 06:04:12 am
content: Surfing around for a handful of Bluetooth and USB to Serial (or SPI) adapter modules...ebay, DX, etc... Too freakin' many of them out there these days.What's everybody's "Go To" module for these? The modules that just plain work...no reflashing, no tricks, just plug and go... Gets tiring dicking around with hacks, work-arounds, and such really quick.On the Bluetooth side, looks like the main ones out there are the Broadcom (BC417?) types, HC-0x. Seems to me like the one to go with is the one with the HC-05 firmware out of the box already stacked on the adapter board.On the USB side, looks like FTDI pretty much has the market. I used the 'original' FT245AM and FT232 for awhile way back when. Of course, those have been obsoleted and updated a number of times over the year. The Silicon Labs CP2102/2103 doesn't seem to be near as popular as it once was.Or maybe the question should be which modules to stay away from because they requires those hacks/work-arounds/etc...

author: fcb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2013, 07:03:55 am
content: FTDI - never had problems (that weren't easily solvable!) with them. FT232R/BL and FT232H mainly. Also looking at the new low cost range (FT230) for a project.I keep a few UM232H modules in-stock for prototyping.

author: Isamun
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2013, 12:16:37 pm
content: I found theGroove BT serialquite painless to get going, assuming you are looking for a SPP(serial protocol profile) module. This seems to be using the same module as the "BC417?" you mentioned, so this is just a confirmation that it works as expected.Good luck!

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2013, 05:39:38 pm
content: In my experience the FT232 drivers are not very good. I switch between several programs using the same port often and many times I need to unplug/plug because the port is still locked. I don't have these problems with a Prolific adapter or the CP2102.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2013, 02:38:28 am
content: Quote from: nctnico on October 04, 2013, 05:39:38 pmNever had any issues with the ones I use. Could yours be a fake? (I use the in kernel drivers.)I have, however, had plenty of issues with some PL2303s locking up if they receive an unexpected signal, as often happens when hot plugging RS232 cables.

author: Dave
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2013, 04:44:25 am
content: Quote from: nctnico on October 04, 2013, 05:39:38 pmI have been using FT232 and FT230X chips for a while now, and I have never encountered that problem. In my experience it always just worked.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2013, 10:50:57 am
content: Quote from: NiHaoMike on October 05, 2013, 02:38:28 amI have these problems with Windows and I think I have real ones (unless Farnell sells fakes). Switching gear on/off also locks the FT232 in many cases. From the past I know the CP2102 is the most robust one out there but against better judgement I choose to use the FT232 for a batch of universal USB-RS232 boards I use for various purposes. If the mode of operation is plug-in, open port and communicate the FT232 usually works. If the mode of operation is plug-in open close open close open close switch off switch on open close open close open close switch off switch on open close open close open close switch off switch on then it shows its flaws (at least with the Windows drivers).

author: enz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2013, 09:35:39 pm
content: I also encountered some problems with the windows drivers for FTDI chips.Most often the problem occurs when a couple of devices (more than only one or two) with FTDI chips are connected to the PC.Some of the devices then are suddenly no longer recognized when connected to the PC, or an already connected device disappears when a new one is connected.I also made the experience, that the drivers for the CP2102 are more stable.

author: form
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 06:02:06 pm
content: Quote from: enz on October 05, 2013, 09:35:39 pmHmm, sounds like you programmed the same serialnumber into more than one device. FTDI is normally very stable and robust to errors.

author: enz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2013, 10:29:00 pm
content: Quote from: form on October 08, 2013, 06:02:06 pmNo, it also happens with non self build/programmed devices. Even if they come from different manufactures but are equipped with FTDI devices.

author: Maxlor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2013, 12:06:15 am
content: For the bluetooth part, I like theRN-42. I've used it in a number of projects they work well (well, as well as Bluetooth can work in general, anyway. The protocol has some flaws.) They implement the serial protocol (SPP) at up to 230kbaud.A neat trick is, the firmware has support for auto pairing. So if you have two of those modules, you can pair them using only jumpers/dipswitches; they'll remember the configuration after a powercycle and will automatically reconnect. I've used that particular feature to build a wireless serial cableto get electrical isolation.You can get the module in 3 different versions, one with just the canned transceiver without an antenna, one on a thing PCB containing a trace antenna, and a more complete board containing the aforementioned configuration jumpers, leds and passive components. The extra stuff you might or might not need is well-documented, so using just the trace-antenna-variant only is probably the cheapest option for most people.

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2013, 03:55:13 am
content: CP2102 modules for the USB, the modules are cheap, and work, what more do you want.NB: Look for one which has the end pinout "DTR, RX, TX, VCC, CTS, GND" which is "the standard" (FTDI cable), that way you can just use a right angle female header on either it or the thing you're plugging it into and just plug em together. Some of the modules have slightly different pinouts which isn't so convenient needing jumper wires. If you do need to use the jumper wires that come with them, check the wires for end to end continuity before you start scratching your head trying to work out what's wrong, quality on those wires... variable at best.

author: richcj10
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2013, 06:32:25 am
content: I use the RN-41.If I just want WUART, I just use the xbee.

author: ohmineer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2013, 05:29:55 pm
content: Be careful with HC-0X modules, they are sold with different firmwares (Different features, AT commands and slightly different pinout for LED and sleep button) and it is not easy to find the right documentation. Anyway, If you don't want to change BT name or baud, they can be normally used fairly well at 9600 bps.To my knowledge, apart from Roving Network RN-4X modules, there are reputable brands such as Panasonic and BlueGiga that have very decent and easy-to-use modules (PAN-13XX and WTXX). At least, in this cases, I guess that documentation will be far better.