hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Trying to find a connector and need your help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: RandomUser2025
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2025, 07:56:46 pm
content: Hi everyone!I'm looking for some help looking for a connector I've been searching for...I got the male type of the connector and I need to find the female port that would fit it, the connector is about 7mm long and 2mm wide, it got 17*2 pins, a picture of it will be added to this post,Hope you can help me find it, thanks in advance!

author: benj38
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2025, 10:45:35 pm
content: What is the exact spacing between the center of one pin to the next pin in the same row?

author: RandomUser2025
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 01:51:38 pm
content: First of all thanks for your answer,Here's a chart of the sizes

author: benj38
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 04:03:24 pm
content: The critical measurement we are still missing is between pin centers of two adjacent pins on the same row of 17 pins. it looks from the other measurements like it is 0.4mm, but please verify (easiest I guess is to measure the distance between the center of one pin and a pin ten positions ahead in the row and see if it is 4mm).These are often called mezzanine connectors, and something like Panasonic AXT334124 may be what you need, but you should look at the different dimensions in the datasheet and compare them to your connector to verify!https://www.lcsc.com/datasheet/lcsc_datasheet_2410311221_PANASONIC-AXT334124_C3652500.pdf

author: RandomUser2025
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 07:44:26 pm
content: It does seem like you're right, thank you!I'll try getting one and update if needed, I really appreciate your help

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 08:15:34 pm
content: Connector height is absolutely needed to figure out what it is.

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 08:37:58 pm
content: The width of the Panasonic is to wide compared to your measurements. Even Molex slimstack is to wide. Try KYOCERA AVX 34 Position.https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/40/5804-3011047.pdf. Your picture looks like the plug.

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2025, 10:31:46 pm
content: This is a 34 pin fpc connectorhttps://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806871530839.htmlhttps://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806284898288.htmlSo long as connector length is similar within mm, you should be able to desolder the old one, and solder the new one, and then use the corresponding motherboard receptor.As far as spacing goes and height, that's only important if you want the same exact one. But it don't have to be the same exact one. You get the one with same over-all length, so you can solder it on.You swipe pins with flux and apply rose's metal. Then you blow from below with 220C and take off the connector. Clean contacts with solder wick. Apply solder, paste if you want, and flux, and solder in the new connector. Idea is not to destroy the original connector and save it for possible later use.
Trying to find a denser LED than the 100w COBs on Amazon - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: netham45
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 04, 2021, 02:22:40 am
content: I have some 100W LEDs I got off of Amazon that I'm shining through a small 2mm^2-ish hole onto a projector. I'm looking for something that has the LEDs more dense on the board so I can get more light through that hole.If I could find something like a normal 100W LED COB that had all of the LEDs in a smaller area that would work, or if I could find a chip with the same density but brighter per LED that'd also work.I foundhttp://fcopto.com/portfolio-items/luna-200/?portfolioCats=3which looks like it would do what I want but I can't find it for sale anywhere. Does anyone know where I can find an LED like that or a comparable one?

author: mvs
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2021, 08:07:33 am
content: Quote from: netham45 on April 04, 2021, 02:22:40 amThe hole is way to small for a COB LED, look for Cree XHP or something similar.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2021, 09:46:32 am
content: Car LED headlights?

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2021, 10:28:42 am
content: Could you not put a condenser lens between your LED and the hole? You'll be throwing away a huge amount of light otherwise.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2021, 10:46:43 am
content: Sounds much more like you need an optical solution as much as more power. What are you projecting into/onto or through? Would you be better to look at something in the visible Laser area for a solution?
Trying to find a reference for a component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Runik
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 31, 2022, 06:50:43 pm
content: Hello there !I have a power manager in my house with a few buttons, a lcd screen and a wheel to choose between various options.Turning the wheel in one direction or the other selects the next option in line. But lately the wheel started to behave erratically, randomly selecting options, and becoming sometimes difficult to turn, as if something was stuck inside.I disassembled the device, and the part linked to the wheel has trouble turning : there's some grinding while turning, as if something was in the path ... I did some cleaning, it was a bit better, but it's still too much erratic to my liking.The part has just a "DIP" marking twice on the metal part, nothing else.Does that ring a bell to anyone ?Thanks

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2022, 08:06:04 pm
content: SRM-8R8 ?DatasheetProbably the marking is at the bottom.

author: Runik
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 31, 2022, 10:16:52 pm
content: Damn, you're goodThanks a lot !I'll remove it and check underneath.
Trying to find correct switch for mouse - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: artv
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2020, 08:39:42 am
content: HiMy Corsair Katar mouse works fine apart from the middle button switch - which needs a huge amount of force to activate.It looks like it's 6mm x 6mm 9mm (possibly 9.5mm) high. And with two pins. I just can't find the replacement - it's looks simple to replace.Any ideas where I could get one in the UK ideally. Can you modify a 4 pin switch?Thanks!

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2020, 09:57:48 am
content: The other rectangular switches seem to be the most common in mice.Your button looks a lot like the very common button with metal plate (long time ago) but more commonly white plastic stamped sheet top. These come in different "pin" heights.If you can't source an original button, you can fabracate a substitute from such a regular button. Just glue it in place, maybe use a matsch stick as distance holder. A bit finicky, but as addition to opening it, searching for buttons posting here and the soldering involved it's just a small extra step.Also:Re-trace the circuit. A very common fault is to use a ceramic capacitor parallel with a switch to "dampen" bouncing. When you short this capacitor by closing the switch, it can deliver very high peak currents (10A is no exception!) and this WILL wear out switches prematurely. A simple solution is to ad a series resistor between the capacitor and the switch lo limit peak current.
trying to find omronG5LE-112P-PS for board replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: richard295
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 07, 2015, 03:12:37 pm
content: Rated 12v dc 10A at 250v3 of them on circuit board. . . . can't find that cat # help appreciated RESOLVED SEE POST

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2015, 04:52:48 am
content: I sent you a PM on the PM you asked me about the same thing.http://www.findchips.com/search/G5LE-112P-PShttps://octopart.com/partsearch#!?q=G5LE-112P-PSI think the ones you want are the Quest ones @ $3.75 qty 1, $2.50 qty 4, $1.875 qty 11Of course you will have to add shipping.But verify they are the right ones since I didn't do that.The good news is that they have 2500 in stockEdit: octopart datasheet:http://datasheet.octopart.com/G5LE-112P-PS-DC12-Omron-datasheet-10841140.pdfEdit again, that datasheet doesn't match the part, maybe you can find the right datasheet to ensure it matches.
Trying to find out how device communicates over serial - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: pbgben
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2016, 09:19:55 pm
content: Hello,I have a device that is controlled over serial, I want to be able to replace the controller with my own unit and need to work out what commands are being sent over the serial connection. The problem Im having is that the data is garbled. I have tried a bunch of different Baud rates and found numbers counting down at 1200, but their followed by gibberish.I don't have access to an oscilloscope so am unable to use that route.Code:????? ???????? ???????? ???????? ???????? ???????????????? ???????? ???????? ???????? ???????? ???????????????? ; ???????? : ???????? 9 ???????? 8 ???????? 7 ???????? 6 ???????? 5???????? 4 ???????? 3 ???????? 2 ????????1 ???

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 15, 2016, 09:35:49 pm
content: Quote from: pbgben on February 15, 2016, 09:19:55 pmHiOk, here is the matrix:Baud rates from 300 to 115.2KData size from 5 to 10 bitsOne start bitZero or one parity bit (odd or even if present)One or two stop bits.Signal inverted or notThere are a *lot* of things to search out in that.Since standard baud rates are related to each other, you can find multiple baud rates that give you some correct characters. Auto baud routines use this fact to figure out what the baud rate is. You need to search all the baud rates to be sure you have the right one. There are some that are above and below what I listed above.Start with signal un-inverted and do a search at 8 data, no parity,one stop bit. See what you find. Go back, invert the signal and repeat the process. That should get you somewhere. If it does not, find a friend with a scope.Also consider -- there is no reason why a controller would talk ASCII text. It may be talking binary ...what you have may be the right baud rate already.Bob

author: pbgben
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2016, 10:06:29 pm
content: Thanks Bob,I think it might be binary.I used realterm to capture the data sent from the controller at 1200 Baud, no parity, 8Data and 1Stop. then I could replay that capture to the device and it would perform the action.I guess I can work with this, just record the data sent from the controller and replay via Arduino.

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 15, 2016, 10:32:08 pm
content: HiIf it works it works.Bob

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2016, 11:33:34 pm
content: get a sigrok compatible logic analyzer, some are as cheap as $10.
Trying to find the maximum error specifications of the LSM6DSR - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: no1no2no3no4
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 20, 2024, 06:16:02 am
content: Hi, I need to know the maximum error of the LSM6DSR but I cannot for the life of me find anything in the datasheet. Specifically I'm referring to both the accelerometer and the gyroscope, I need to know the minimum value I can accurately measure. I have another sensor that I'm looking at that lists the non-linearity, with which I can use to calculate the maximum error. I've read everything in the mechanical characteristics section of the datasheet and skimmed the rest but to no avail. Any help would be great! Datasheet:https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/2201131130_STMicroelectronics-LSM6DSRTR_C784817.pdf

author: jwet
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2024, 01:42:17 pm
content: The limiting factor for accuracy for both of these sensors is drift rate and temperature performance. This stuff is specified in the data sheet- I pasted below, a little rough.G_So% Sensitivity tolerance(3) at component level ±1 %LA_SoDr Linear acceleration sensitivity change vs. temperature(4) from -40° to +85° ±0.01 %/°CG_SoDr Angular rate sensitivity change vs. temperature(4) from -40° to +85° ±0.007 %/°CLA_TyOff Linear acceleration zero-g level offset accuracy(5) ±10 mgG_TyOff Angular rate zero-rate level(5) ±1 dpsLA_OffDr Linear acceleration zero-g level change vs. temperature(4) ±0.1 mg/ °CG_OffDr Angular rate typical zero-rate level change vs. temperature(4) ±0.005 dps/°CThe _TyOff specs are pretty key especially if you integrate them to produce either angles or positions. Accel offset at 10mg means after 100 seconds- you could accumulate a speed error of 9.8 m/s of velocity which I think turns into nearly a kilometer of position error. You can likely get rid of 3/4 of this with software massagging but some of it is non linear like stiction and hysterisis. See if the vendor gives an guidance in app notes, etc. The gyro drift rate is worse really, you could be completely turned around (180 degress) in 180 seconds. Again, software or a compass can help here. Hope this helps.
Trying to find the RGSD8X224K electronic component - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: maeloterkim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 22, 2022, 03:47:48 pm
content: Hi im searching this component but i didnt find anythingi atached an image of the componentI tried googling with some letters combination with no resultsif someone can help me to identify itthe component has 9 pinsthe text on the component says : 00X22Kthe text on the board says : RGSD8X224KI want to replace with a new one but i dont know what component is and where to find itThanks

author: Neomys Sapiens
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2022, 04:47:11 pm
content: Quote from: maeloterkim on January 22, 2022, 03:47:48 pmLooks to me like a resistor array. 8x 220k to one common terminal.

author: maeloterkim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 22, 2022, 04:56:58 pm
content: Quote from: Neomys Sapiens on January 22, 2022, 04:47:11 pmYes i think that this is the answer ThanksI will try to find someone similar

author: maeloterkim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 22, 2022, 06:01:33 pm
content: if it is useful for someonei found the 9A103J resistor array datasheet pdf online (easy to find)and the letters mean :9 -> number of pinsA -> type of resistors circuit ( A means resistors with a common pin circuit )103 -> the value of the resistorsJ -> the toleranceI think i will try as a replacement of the RGSD8X224K ( 00X224K) that seems a 8 resistors array with a common pin with a9A224 (220K)and any letter as a toleranceeasy to find on aliexpressin aliexpress you must search for 9A103J or "Resistor Network Array 9 PIN" and find a seller that sell different resistor values like 220Ki hope this works

author: drvtech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2022, 07:00:40 pm
content: A search on eBay for "220k resistor network" gives a few hits. This one for examplehttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220K-10-x-8-Commoned-Resistor-Network-9-PIN-SIL-Single-In-Line-150-/361618684935?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0That's a UK seller so might be no use to you depending where you are but you might find something more local.
Trying to find the right Heyco strain relief bushing - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: onedumbquestion
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2019, 08:15:04 pm
content: I need a Double D strain relief bushing that's 12mm x 11mm (to prevent rotation) and haven't been able to find the right Heyco part number Can anyone please tell me the part number

author: KMoffett
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2019, 11:09:18 am
content: Why those dimensions? Is the hole already there? I don't recall ever seeing one with that small a ratio of height vs width.
Trying to get LM339 battery tester circuit working...  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: doublec4
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 02:32:09 pm
content: Hi All,I am trying to get a simple battery testing circuit working with the LM339 differential comparator IC. I have four LEDs to indicate the voltage level of the battery (Li-ion tool battery... 12.6V max, 9V min)I put together an excel spreadsheet to calculate my resistor voltages to give me the LED outputs at the desired voltages. See attached.I found a circuit online and replicated it... with one small change (see attached). The circuit I found online has the + side of the LEDs connected to the 12V supply. I figured I would connect the + side of the LEDs to the part of the circuit where the zener should keep the voltage at ~6.2V this way I could use smaller resistors. I'm not sure if somehow this is the source of my problems because the zener does not seem to be regulating the voltage to 6.2V... When the supply is set to 12V the zener is outputting ~11VThe result I am getting is that the LEDs stay lit all the way down to ~7.5V and then below that they start turning off... not at all the range I was hoping for.Are the LEDs somehow affecting the zeners ability to properly regulate to 6.2V?Thanks!

author: kosine
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 03:13:24 pm
content: Try an LTspice simulation...You need to connect your LEDs directly to the supply voltage, not to the zener.Spice then says the LEDs should draw about 15mA and go out at (about) 12.4V, 11.4V, 10.4V and 9.5V. (Assuming I've copied your resistor values correctly.)You're also running the LEDs quite hot, I'd use maybe 2k2 resistors to drop the current to about 5mA.edit: have attached the spice file

author: doublec4
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 03:24:51 pm
content: I really need to learn how to use LTSpiceThanks for simulating it! I will try running it as you suggest and see what happens. Also, I was running the LEDs a bit on the hot side because this circuit was going to be on a momentary push button so it would only light up for a moment, not continuous. I wanted it bright so it would be visible during the day.

author: kosine
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 03:42:49 pm
content: Go and download it right now! It's pretty easy to use, and sooo much easier than messing around with a breadboard. Very useful and powerful software, loads of help and tutorials out there.A few quirks and limitations, most of the opamp and comparator models are Linear Tech devices, but you can find other ones online if you need them. To start with, I just pick any old device from the list and see if it works. I swapped your LM339 for an LT1017 and just ran with it, seems to give sensible results.Give it a try!

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 08:03:15 pm
content: Quote from: kosine on July 26, 2019, 03:42:49 pmDownloadBordodynov's libraryfor LTSpice. A vast number of third party models of all sorts, including typical jellybean op-amps.
Trying To Get My CNC Machine Chooching Again - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: BenKomisar11
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 22, 2018, 02:15:57 pm
content: Hello EEVBlog Forum Members,I am hoping to get a discussion area where I can get some tips on how to get this CNC operational again.Its a cheapo 3 stepper motor, 16cm x 10cm work-area, that I bought off ebay for around $260 Canadian DollhairsI messed up the firmware on the original driver board, and I bought a new one off ebay but i cannot seem to get it to dial in.I will share more pictures and in depth info on later posts.Thanks everyone,Ben

author: tpowell1830
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2018, 04:14:08 pm
content: Welcome to the forum Ben. Post away...

author: Atom
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2018, 07:59:38 pm
content: i think that those cnc come with a woodpecker board so you have simply to flash a new firmware on the 328p, ther a re a lot of tutorials on how to do it online

author: BenKomisar11
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 05, 2019, 04:36:53 pm
content: I just want to quickly say thanks to you guys before this thread is officially done.I figured out my CNC issues, for some reason with the new driver I bought (along with the CAM software I am using) I have to custom scale the drawings before I mill them.The scale ratio is easy to remember: Scale larger 321%Anyhow, I am going to start another topic soon to try and get a little bit of help gettting my cheapo 3D printer bought off ebay working.I am a sucker for the cheap CNC stuff.Thanks again.Regards,Ben

author: sambonator
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2019, 12:05:21 am
content: Welcome! Those are fun to tinker around with
Trying to ID a connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: carleeno
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 27, 2020, 05:34:01 pm
content: Hi, my first post here, I apologize if I'm asking in the wrong place.I'm trying to identify a connector on a BMS for the onewheel xr. I've attached a picture of the connector.I've gone through mouser and digikey looking to figure out what it is, but no luck.Here's what I know:26 positions2 rows1.5 mm pitchno markings visible without removing the connector (something I don't want to doyet)The closest connector I found is the Molex CLIK-Mate, but it's not quite the same.Anybody know what this is, or have any suggestions of how I can figure out what it is?Thanks!

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2020, 09:44:20 pm
content: 1.5 mm ZPD connector .
Trying to ID chip Manufacturer and find datasheets - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: LateLesley
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 03:14:51 pm
content: Hi folks,After a fruitless search on the web, I've just joined here to get help IDing a chip manufacturer. the logo is an M with like saturns ring around it, chip model numbers start MT. they seem to be of '98 vintage. specific ones I'm looking for is MT1102F, MT1115F and MT1126M. any help appreciated.Lesley

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 03:27:39 pm
content: It's Mediatek, you won't find any datasheet.

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 03:36:33 pm
content: Even with a datasheet a CDROM chipset is not very useful for anything except CDROM drives.

author: LateLesley
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 03:40:21 pm
content: Thanks wraper.I did have a suspicion it was Mediatek, all my hunting around seem to gravitate towards them or Micron. I just couldnt find anything to confirm it. Thank you for solving one half of the puzzle.

author: LateLesley
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 03:44:04 pm
content: @bktemp, I was kinda hoping one might have been like a small microcontroller to play with, and possibly a stepper motor controller too (main motor looks like a multi phase job, got several connections). I was just wanting info to see if even parts of them could be used. Its just for playing around with and learning.

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 04:19:06 pm
content: A standalone BLDC motor controller in a CDROM drive seems to be rare.Some CD players used Rohm BA593x series and some CDROM drives BA594x. Those ics have drivers for all VCMs and loading/sled motors except for the BLDC motor.One of the MT11xx ics has probably similar functions.
Trying to identify a smd. Markings GD 1B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: magnetchief
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2022, 07:57:27 pm
content: hi,I am attempting to repair a small temperature control device.I noticed that a small smd on the circuit board had blown.Attached is a photo of the device, There are very few markings and have so far drawn a blank searching online.Much appreciated,

author: Jbouss
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2022, 01:13:27 am
content: It may be possible to figure out what the IC is by what it is traced to. I suggest attaching a picture of the full board; you could go a step further and draw out what is attached to each pin.Good luck!

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2022, 02:49:13 am
content: Does RT8010-15GQW match?https://www.s-manuals.com/ru/smd/gd

author: magnetchief
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2022, 03:30:54 pm
content: Many thanks.Will try that

author: magnetchief
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2022, 07:51:08 pm
content: Attached is the whole board.It is a temperature control device, 2 thermocouples, a heater and a heater safety sensor device (a PT100 sensor to measure heater temp)The yellow wire (U1+) shows the small pad where the damaged part was removed.Unfortunately I do not have the skill required to describe its function within the circuit.Many thanks for any advice.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2022, 01:38:55 am
content: DefinitelynotRT8010 or any other switching regulator.

author: mvs
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2022, 08:42:29 pm
content: Quote from: magnetchief on March 07, 2022, 07:51:08 pmIt is an ESD protection clamp, similar to Semtech RClamp3354Shttps://www.semtech.com/products/circuit-protection/low-capacitance/rclamp3354sThe clamp near LN2 T1 and T2 pads seems to be unused. You can salvage it for a repair.

author: magnetchief
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2022, 02:54:21 pm
content: Many thanks, I will give that a go.
Trying to identify chip...I2C EEPROM??? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jdgabbard
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2018, 04:03:31 pm
content: I am trying to identify a particular type of chip that is being used in a design that I am trying to re-engineer. I believe it to be an I2C eeprom, as when checked with a continuity tester it shows that (DIP-8 IC) pins 1-4 & 7 are connected to GND, pin 7 is connected to +5v, and pins 6 & 7 run off to a header that is connected by a ribbon cable to another pcb. The parts used in this appear to be an Atmel part. But I cannot track down a datasheet for the parts used. I've seen several ICs out there, and the pictures included are from a replacement board that is rather expensive for what it is. The particular board that I have carries the part number of ATMLU434. But I do not have a decent camera to take a picture of it with, so here are examples of the copy boards. Google and Datasheet database searches of the part numbers do not show anything. Anyone have any ideas?

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2018, 04:21:23 pm
content: My guess would be Atmel 24C02 or similar - read it on a device programmer to confirm size

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2018, 04:43:17 pm
content: ATML = Atmel, U = tin plating, 4 = presumably 2014, or somewhere further back, 34 = week 34.You want the second line. In the case of the larger image there, 04CM. 04C is an AT24C04C, M is the voltage spec (1.7V).This information brought to you by the seventh result on Google for ATMLU434.

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2018, 04:51:07 pm
content: Agree with above - most of those numbers are date code and batch number. The important number is the three characters on the middle line.http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/devicedoc/atmel-8871f-seeprom-at24c01d-02d-datasheet.pdfhttp://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/devicedoc/atmel-8787-seeprom-at24c04c-08c-datasheet.pdf

author: jdgabbard
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2018, 05:37:07 pm
content: Awesome, so that’s confirms my suspicion. Page 11 of the datasheet for the 24C01/02 shows that it does have the ATMLHXXX code with the part number on the 2nd line. Thanks.
Trying to identify component or manufacturer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rhinonimi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 16, 2025, 10:43:45 pm
content: Does anybody know what this component is. I am leaning towards a flatpack aluminum capacitor. But can’t seem to source the manufacturer. This component is off a AC water pump motor.

author: Roehrenonkel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2025, 11:12:27 pm
content: Hi rhinonimi,welcome to the forum.Looks like a thermal-fuse to me.What's stamped on the other side?Where is it in the circuit?Good luck

author: rhinonimi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 16, 2025, 11:53:42 pm
content: That was what I first thought. Nothing stamped on the other side. It is definitely inline with the power in, but hard to figure it out since it is incapsulated. I have had a few of these motors fail. Can’t seem to find a motor start capacitor on it. I might be hoping it’s the capacitor, but it does ready .2 ohms at room temp. I have not tried to heat it up to see it warms up.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2025, 11:58:49 pm
content: Most likely thermal fuse rated for 125oC

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 17, 2025, 12:06:38 am
content: Looks like "KSD9700" type which is a thermal switch, thus resettable.https://salesdpti-nide.en.made-in-china.com/product/RmhUWbkraEcd/China-Kw-Thermal-Protector-Kw-Series-High-Current-Thermal-Protector-Temperature-Control-Switch.html

author: rhinonimi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 17, 2025, 01:32:00 am
content: Thanks for the help. I figured, was just hoping it was a capacitor and could diagnose why these motors were failing easy
Trying to identify Manufacturer of some chip and best practice question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Neurotox
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 26, 2017, 03:42:26 am
content: Hello,I have 3 different model of 4N35 and they seems to have different specification. It's standard for the same model number to have different (electric) specification depending of the manufacturer ?If so, is their any easy way to identify the right manufacturer ?Data on chip:-4N35 031ATK63 (ATK it's probably something...)-K4N35 0744 (The K seems to make it easy,it's probably a Kondenshi)-4N35 V 528 25 (Maybe a Vishay because it's came with a Arduino(Genuino) starter kit and on their web site they give the Vishay datasheet...and because of the V ?)From Vishay and Kodenshi the spec are a little bit different so I presume it's standard to have different spec depending of the manufacturer.Should I try to always stick to the same brand ? Where I bought my stuff they don't seems to care, in my last purchase I got some 4N35 031ATK63 and some K4N35 0744...I noticed the difference in spec by taking a resistor(Ohm) reading at the output of the octocoupler.Thanks!(english is obviously not my first language, sorry for mistake)
trying to identify these PTZ highspeed circuit boards to get a schematics  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Seaofdep
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2017, 01:59:35 am
content: i was wondering if anyone can tell me anything about these boards , its to a ptz dome cam and its only the chassis and 3 the slipring gyro part and camera and not sure what model it is and after non stop search i found that it might be samsung but don't quote me on that lol. i managed to get it running but have not check the camera module which i believe is sony fcb and don't know what software it needs(visca protocol ? i would like to get a diagram for it and get running maybe try a hand held camera idk but. thank you in advance.

author: Seaofdep
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2017, 02:03:58 am
content: closer look
Trying to identify two smd components - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: octavez
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 29, 2023, 01:48:26 am
content: Hi,I'm trying to identify two smd components one SOD-323 diode (DE 9) and a SOT-23 transistor (1BW 19), photos attached.My guess is the diode might be a zener.Thank you in advance!Octave

author: RES
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2023, 12:01:28 pm
content: 1WB = SOT-323 BC846BW NXP NPN transistorhttps://www.s-manuals.com/smd/1bBE 5 = TVS diode ?https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F7W/GZZ8/HRTWJLRR/F7WGZZ8HRTWJLRR.pdf

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2023, 01:06:42 pm
content: In SOD123 package with top marking DE：MMSZ4697T1Ghttps://www.onsemi.com/download/data-sheet/pdf/mmsz4678t1-d.pdf

author: octavez
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 29, 2023, 04:47:36 pm
content: Quote from: RES on March 29, 2023, 12:01:28 pmYes I think that's correct!Quote from: gamalot on March 29, 2023, 01:06:42 pmI think the package is SOD-323 (not SOD-123) and so it could be a BZX384-C16:https://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/BZX384_SER.pdfWhat do you think?Thank you!

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2023, 05:49:28 pm
content: Quote from: octavez on March 29, 2023, 04:47:36 pmSorry, I think you are wrong. Find a ruler and measure the size of it and you'll believe me.

author: octavez
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 29, 2023, 06:41:15 pm
content: Quote from: gamalot on March 29, 2023, 05:49:28 pmSorry you were correct! MMSZ4697T1G it is!
Trying to make a Theremin but stuck at the oscillator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Upballoon
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 01:47:50 am
content: I've been trying to make a proper Theremin for quite some time now but i have no experience designing oscillators. I simulated this design in LTSpice but doesn't give me anything would anyone know why?I'm planning on making 2 of these for my variable pitch oscillator that go into a mixer (SA602A). Am i missing something?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 01:58:57 am
content: Try setting an initial condition one of the L or C. It may not be starting up because there's no initial signal to feed back.Tim

author: Upballoon
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 02:08:18 am
content: Isn't that what the startup command does?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 02:59:21 am
content: http://ltwiki.org/index.php?title=StartupIf you've set no initial conditions, I wouldn't think it does anything?Tim

author: Upballoon
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 03:11:18 am
content: I've even tried building it and it doesn't seem to work. If i add a choke at the collector it oscillates at 2.6MHz and not the 7MHz that its designed for

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 03:48:27 am
content: What does your physical layout look like?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 05:13:52 am
content: Seems like R4 is on the small side (if you change it, check biasing of course), and C1 and C2 should be in some ratio to each other, not just 1:1. That's what I would look at first.I've had fine luck with the emitter coupled Colpitts topology, particularly at high frequencies (not that you need high frequencies here).Also, what the heck is D1 doing? It's also twice the capacitance of C1, sure to screw up what was supposed to be a simple LC resonator.If it's for a Baker clamp, use a small diode like BAS70. Or set the bias so it doesn't clip heavily; clamping isn't necessary to avoid storage time, not at these frequencies.Tim

author: Upballoon
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2020, 03:08:47 pm
content: Yes it is a baker's clamp. Do you have tips/suggestions/resources on designing real work oscillators? I'm quite new to this
Trying to not blow up scope - Grounding questions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: pigtwo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 06:20:36 pm
content: Hello everyone,I'm having a weird problem that I thought someone here might have some insight on. I'm working on a board that takes +5v as an input and also has a usb connection(+5v usb power not used). I was originally using my bench power supply to power the +5v. I could have the usb plugged in, the +5v from the PSU, and scope probes connected to the board(with ground clips all connected to the ground on the board) and everything worked perfectly for many hours.I then switch to a different +5v supply and things seemed to be fine at first. The USB connection and +5v worked together fine but when I attempted to turn on my scope it wouldn't turn on and right when I pressed the power button I heard the USB disconnect on my computer. The scope was connected to the board at this time.I initially thought that the new +5v supply wasn't isolated and that was causing a problem but it is isolated and all my probe grounds were connected to ground.I moved my scope to a different part of my house and and it would turn on fine. I brought it back to the bench with everything else turned off but the scope wouldn't turn on. I tried a different power cable and the scope would turn on. But then when I turned the +5v and usb on the scope wouldn't turn on again. This time I switched the port on the power strip the scope is plugged into and it would turn on again. I then tried turning each part on individually to determine where the problem was but this time the problem never showed up. Now everything seems fine and works properly.Maybe this is an issue with my power strip but I thought I would check here to see if I'm missing something.Also, I checked the original power cable and it seems to be fine.Thank you!

author: Kappes Buur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 07:53:56 pm
content: Your problem most likely is the USB connection.In 99% of the cases the USB power is not isolated.

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2017, 10:14:17 pm
content: These might be useful -http://www.tek.com/document/application-note/three-facets-floating-measurement-solutionshttp://www.tek.com/document/technical-brief/floating-oscilloscope-measurements-and-operator-protectionhttp://www.newark.com/pdfs/techarticles/tektronix/FFM.pdfRegards, Dana.

author: pigtwo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 04:01:16 pm
content: @Kappes BuurI do think that the USB is not isolated but as long as I only connect the scope probes to ground this shouldn't cause problems right?@danaThank you for the links, I'll look through them to see if I can find anything.
Help Me a Pick a Usb Soldering Iron  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Mbakagi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 20, 2024, 12:35:48 pm
content: i dont know whch one better or more durable , both of them use c210 tips , i dont care about power 40 watts i good for me , who tried them or know anything about them .thie first one is ksger c210 portable soldering ironhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005519807256.htmlthe scond one is aifen a11 usb soldering ironhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006956112885.html
Trying to power a uC through a load switch using PIR output - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: FBMinis
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 08:20:35 pm
content: The PIR outputs a 3.3V signal, it goes HIGH when motion is detected. It remains HIGH for up to 7min (defined by the user).I have a few logic level mosfets: AO3401 (P) and AO3400 (N).I am not sure if it's better to use a high-side or low-side switch and what is the best configuration (this is for hobby stuff only). Maybe just one N-Channel on the low side?Basically, the PIR would turn the microcontroller ON, it would send me a message and stay ON until the PIR output goes LOW, after a few minutes.(you can see the 1.5K resistor just behind the output pin)

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2023, 09:29:48 pm
content: Looks fine, better to cut the high side than leaving it floating at VDD level, power could find its way through i/o pins and cause unpredictable results.

author: FBMinis
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2023, 12:00:28 pm
content: Tested and working reliably, thank you.
Trying to recreate a open source schematic  -- Need Help. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: redgear
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2019, 06:09:56 am
content: Hey all,I am trying to recreate a open source motor controller project using Eagle CAD and I am facing few difficulties.1) How do I calculate the value of the resistors R103,R104 and R6(is it 22 times of R0?) and shunts R54 and R53?2) The schematic says R6 resistor is not placed, should I not include it while designing the Gerbers?3) I am able to create labels with a pointed end on the right side but I am not able to get it to point double side or towards the left.4) How do I differentiate between a bus and a wire?Thank you!

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2019, 06:27:55 am
content: 1. R103/104 are both 22.0 Ohms. R53/54 are 0.001 ohms. R6 would be a 0 ohm resistor or a solder bridge2. R6 is an option. Add a footprint but you dont have to populate it.The last 2 i am not sure about

author: redgear
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2019, 06:37:15 am
content: Thank you!

author: redgear
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2019, 06:36:18 am
content: Quote from: redgear on September 19, 2019, 06:09:56 amCan someone help?

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2019, 07:19:59 am
content: 3 - Right click to rotate4 - Busses are blue, nets are green

author: redgear
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2019, 06:08:56 am
content: Quote from: oPossum on September 20, 2019, 07:19:59 amI tried doing it, but the pointed end still points the other side. Also, there is no option to have pointing end on both sides of the labelQuote from: oPossum on September 20, 2019, 07:19:59 amSo as per the schematic, everything is a bus?

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2019, 09:37:34 pm
content: In your original schematic everything in blue is what Eagle calls a net. So in Eagle the blue lines will be green.

author: Ross Robotics
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 22, 2019, 02:38:52 pm
content: Quote from: redgear on September 21, 2019, 06:08:56 amIt doesn't matter which way the arrow's pointing. Anyone who is reading your schematic will be able to follow the Net.

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2019, 03:11:35 pm
content: Quote from: redgear on September 19, 2019, 06:09:56 amThe R is the indication that it's both a resistance value and the R serves as the decimal point.22R0 --> 22.0 Ω0R001 --> 0.001 Ω
Trying to repair switching PSU, Bridge Rectifier Question. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rwgast_lowlevellogicdesin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 06:58:24 am
content: +/-So one of my buddy's blu-ray surround sound in a box receivers just stopped turning on. Ive figured out it was the PSU inside none of the voltage rails seem to be working. At first I thought it was the two 200v 3300uF caps after the rectifier. They looked a little bit swollen but they have plastic coated tops, so I couldn't really tell. I took them out and tested them with a DMM and they were with in 10% of there value.I just noticed the bridge rectifier which takes 120v AC in is putting out 328v DC, could this be because of the switching transformers? I tested the rectifier with a diode tester it seemed fine, no leakage, each diode drops .5v. The deal is this 328v is being pumped right in to the 200v 3300uf filter caps....Does this sound like a bad rectifier or something else?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 07:03:19 am
content: Erm I really can't see how 120V into a rectifier can get 328V out ? Are you sure ?

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 07:56:46 am
content: That's double the mains peak voltage. Some power supplies have a voltage doubler on the input.Did you measure the voltage across a single capacitor? It's possible the 200V capacitors are connected in series and should have half of 328V across each capacitor.
Trying to replace led matrix controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: freshmaker
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 07, 2018, 09:21:11 am
content: I have an Inview display model 2706-P42R-SC that I would like to try controlling with an Arduino. The original controller can only be programmed with messages from a PC using rockwell automations software.The display is made up of 3 modules that hold a 16x40 led matrix that is made up of 10 8x8 matrices. The interface from the controller board to the display boards are 6 wires that daisy chain. Its had to tell how what is going on because the displays are soldered ontop of the electronics but what I think is happening is there are 16 transistors and around the board there are 3 sets of CD4015 shift registers connected to ULN2003A drivers i believe control the rows and 1 set appears to have the data lines that head off to the next module run through it. Then there are 5 more sets of shift registers and drivers that i guess run the columns of 2 8x8 matrices.So it looks like the whole thing runs on shift registers and am I right in thinking that of the 6 control lines 3 would be for the columns and 3 for the rows?That is about the extent of my knowledge here. Im probably way over my head but I would like to try.What would be the next steps in figuring this out?

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 07, 2018, 09:49:41 am
content: I found a PDF(for those playing along). These seem to have serial ports, so why not capture the comms data and figure it out?*edit: Too much for me to look into, butRockwell Automationdoes have 35 Google hits on the Ardino forum:https://www.google.com/search?q=Rockwell+Automation+and+"arduino"+-vs+site:forum.arduino.cc
trying to simulate a full wave rectifier - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: WillHuang
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 08:33:40 pm
content: I'm trying to simulate part of a full wave rectifier on LTSpice, but I don't think what I see on the screen is matching what I believe I should see. I've posted a picture below...First off, the Vsrc net is not showing a full sine wave that is 12Vp-p.. it's showing like half a sine wave that's 11.5Vp-p. What am I doing wrong?Thanks

author: StillTrying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 08:59:49 pm
content: You're forgetting the sine source is floating / not connected to 0V / GND.Drag the probe across the sine source, dropping a red probe on one wire and the black probe on the other.

author: jitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 09:24:50 pm
content: And then repeat that with the red probe on Vsrc and black on ground. See anything familiar?

author: WillHuang
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2016, 09:43:47 pm
content: Ohhh I see. Thank you for your guidances!
Trying to simulate the function of a TVS diode in LTspice - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: fubar.gr
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 29, 2025, 10:40:58 pm
content: I made the attached circuit in LTspice.It is a 12 Volt AC source with 50 Volt spikes feeding a 90 Ohm resistor. So I added a SMBJ24CA TVS diode in parallel, expecting it to clamp the voltage to something near 24 Volts.But it doesn't work. The voltage spikes pass unobstructed to the load.Am I missing something or is this how the TVS diode is supposed to work?

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2025, 11:13:51 pm
content: They are ideal voltage sources that can supply infinite current.Look at the current through the TVS, and insert a resistor between the TV'S and the voltage sources. Resistor value is chosen to set the desired maximum current.