I hated the FX-888D interface - I am OK now - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Back2Volts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 07, 2016, 05:48:03 pm
content: I have a one year old Hakko barely used at all, with a some common tips (some new). I have done less than two dozen welds with it. Mostly yesterday, over a learning SMD kit. It is set at 750 and seems to have been designed to prevent user from ever changing itI am considering replacing it with a station with better interface. It seems the only one close in price would be the WESD51.Is the iron comparable to the Hakko 888D ? Equivalent tip change ? Similar tip prices ?What would be the entry set of tips for TH and SMD ?Comments would be appreciated.

author: suicidaleggroll
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2016, 05:56:19 pm
content: Agreed.I have an FX-888D, and you're right it does suck to change the temperature setting on, but why do you need to change it? All of my stations are set at 750 and never move, the Metcal doesn't even have the ability to change the temperature setting.I've probably changed the temperature setting on my adjustable temperature stations three times in the last five years, give or take, and it was never out of necessity (usually because I was trying to heat up a joint that was too big for the tip I was using and I didn't want to change the tip for some reason).

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2016, 08:52:21 pm
content: I agree with all of the above! Set it for 750 deg F and leave it alone. You don't need a UI, you shouldn't even have one.i bought one of these stations for my grandson and he did a really nice job on his soldering project.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 07, 2016, 09:50:44 pm
content: I have its big brother, the 951 and I don't change the temperature setting either.

author: Back2Volts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 07, 2016, 10:06:00 pm
content: You have convinced me. 750 it is. I feel better !

author: newbrain
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2016, 10:18:37 pm
content: Quote from: Back2Volts on September 07, 2016, 10:06:00 pmAnd if you really want or need to change it, use the preset mode, not the continuous one!You can have from 1 to 5 presets, and it's simple to cycle through them (I use only three).See chapter 6 ofthe manualon how to put the 888D in preset mode, and 2nd half of page 4 on how to switch form one preset to another.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2016, 09:32:21 am
content: Why change at all, you ask? It's a 65W station with temp sensor feedback, not a 100W power with insta power manipulation ala metcal.I need 3 settings.HotHotterMo Hotter.Hot. Regular soldering where occasionally waiting half a second for the joint to form is preferable to having to clean and rewet the tip so frequently. This is the temp where you leave it on all day or night while fiddling with your scope and leafing thru datasheets.Hotter. Batch/production soldering temp. Where the tip will fume off and go crusty relatively quickly. But once you prep it, you let er rip through dozens of parts at a time.Mo Hotter for large heatsinking joints.888D can be setup for 3 to 5 presets. Still a little annoying cycling thru them, but much better than the default.

author: Shredhead
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2016, 07:47:39 pm
content: Out of the box, my 888D didn't cycle through the presets. I could only change the temp manually which is slow and annoying. The manual that comes with the station didn't even address this issue. I found this video which clears up the problem and lets you program 5 different preset temps. I use 3 temps regularly depending on what I'm working on.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2016, 08:33:29 pm
content: I have my FX-888 set at 650 F for leaded solder and it seems fine. Is 750 F for lead free?

author: newbrain
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2016, 09:56:55 am
content: Quote from: Shredhead on September 09, 2016, 07:47:39 pmNot true. See my post above.But I'll concede that the information is very well buried...

author: Back2Volts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 10, 2016, 10:30:39 pm
content: Guys, this morning I enabled the presets in my station!A second round of thanks to all!

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 10, 2016, 11:37:27 pm
content: Glad you got it sorted. I will agree that the interface leaves something to be desired but, as I said, I leave my 951 at 650F and have no trouble soldering. If it is larger wire, I will bump the temp up but for component soldering, I find 650F quite good for quick soldering to keep thermal shock down on the board and components.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2016, 01:46:38 pm
content: The original 936 design and electronics were 'reborn' in the 600 [ T18 size tips ] and 601 [ T19 tips ] analog adjustable non-station irons. The electronics are fully within the handset but itsthe sameof similar design and uses similar heater technology and type of tips. 601 is slightly larger and heavier and uses bigger tips. 600 is more like original 936 tip size.The main drawback is the size of the grip and weight, 61 g versus 46g for a station based iron. But if you only use it occasionally, its perfect.Worldwide you can order a Japanese version via eBay for half of the Hakko USA retail price, just watch the voltage of your country, possible your country custom duties, the Japanese version is 2 plugnot grounded, and enjoy. Typically US$50, its a steal.For US buyers Adafruit has them for $45 before S&H. That's a steal.Made in Malaysia.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-fx-600/msg1024335/#msg1024335US ModelJapan Model

author: rrinker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2016, 07:22:34 pm
content: This is in part why I am glad my Xytronics is the older one with a knob, not a digital readout and buttons. If it's going to be a while between joints, I can just spin it down to the low end, and then crank it back up when needed, no messing with pushing buttons or holding them for a preset or whatever. A shame these are no longer available and everything has gone digital. I suppose the same operation can be accomplished by assigning one of the presets to a low level, but are there any with direct access to the presets? Say 5 buttons, one for each preset, plus the up/down buttons for manual or to program the presets? THAT would be usable. Just up and down buttons, vs a potentiometer knob? That to me is a step backwards in usability.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2016, 02:56:58 am
content: It's the same problem with cars. My present car (an older model) has rotating knobs for temperature and for volume. Newer versions of the same model have a touch sensitive LCD with no rotating knobs at all. This is highly annoying.

author: jh15
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2016, 05:41:06 am
content: Just ask Siri: fx-888d soldering iron, tell me what to do. Or in future, with fx-888d_apple it will set itself to what is best for you.After some updates, security checks, if you paid your ISP and smart power company meter not cut off too.Oh, doesn't work anymore below OS 10 Sierra, sorry.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2016, 06:23:43 am
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-888d-interface-fixed/msg875006/#msg875006Lots of complaints, all of a sudden.I'm wondering when my project will takes off... 5 presets at the press of a button. See video in the OP. It looks a little slow, but trust me, it changes presets as fast as possible, given the limitations (debouncing speed) of the original firmware and non-responsive time in the Ui. If that is slow, imagine trying to get to the right preset after accidentally selecting the wrong one. With this, you just press button 1-5 and you get to the preset, automatically (eventually!).so far zero requests for code/gerber...20 minute installation, first time I opened this station. Should be easy if you know what you're doing.

author: Back2Volts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 13, 2016, 09:24:48 pm
content: Wow! KL, what a hack!For now the answers above have enticed me to deal with it: I have overcome the RTFM aversionthat I have developed over time ; confronted the beast; enabled and adjustedthe set points in 50s from 600 to 800. After that, I think I can deal with it.Some inner exploration had me realize that what got me to post this thread is that I found myself in front of this modern electronic thing, perplexed, with no clue as to what to do with UP and ENTER.I guess I am too old for a radical paradigm change !I am cool now... and I have no emojis left

author: Nerull
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2016, 09:44:40 pm
content: Quote from: rrinker on September 11, 2016, 07:22:34 pmMost irons intended for production have some sort of auto-sleep capability and do this automatically without you needing to push buttons or turn knobs.

author: b_force
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2016, 10:30:19 pm
content: That 'enter' key is a perfect way of screwing up an interface.I mean why don't they use a press+hold function on that one.Anyway, don't like button only interfaces.You just click forever on these things.Scroll wheels is what we want!

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2016, 10:58:35 pm
content: QuoteThx.QuoteThis is exactly what my mod does. Takes just 4 wires: 5V rail, ground, and a connection to the UP and ENTER traces. Works flawlessly, so far. I have screwed it on, with 3 screws... the station is bomb proof, the way the face is recessed. Could drop it off the roof, I think.