Advantest R6245 - Dual-Channel SMU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 05:08:43 pm
content: Hello forum members,I have a fairly unique instrument called the Advantest R6245 (acquired by ADCMT Inc.https://www.adcmt.com/en/company) that I purchased from a Korean eBay Seller. The datasheet has been attached for your convenience.1) Luckily, the instrument is in good cosmetic condition apart from a rear bumper that was damaged during shipping. Unlike other SMUs there is no air filter, so I spent two solid days cleaning the instrument.2) During the extensive cleaning process, I inspected the unit for signs of damage. It seems that the instrument was never opened because there are markings on every single screw head to indicate whether the part has been previously disassembled. Here are some signs of possible damage that I could see:3) The fuse was missing when I first received the unit, so I found an appropriate North American fuse replacement (Littlefuse 0314005.HXP).4) The fan runs when the power is switched ON, but nothing from the front panel display indicates. No display, no indicators from the switches.The following posts will be a teardown of the entire instrument during the cleaning process.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 07:06:10 pm
content: Step A1. Remove the back bumper feet to slide the top and bottom panelling away from the chassis.2. After the removal of the chassis covers, there are two cover panels that come off with standardized screws.3. To remove the main control board, there are two shorter screws indicated by the circles of the previous step. These screws are slightly shorter and should be separated from the rest. Make note of where the ribbon cables are connected and begin to disconnect these from the main board.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 07:06:44 pm
content: Step B4. The screw to the left acts as a ground for the shielded ribbon cable in black that extends from the main control board to the front display panel.5. The back panel GPIB and I/O interface can be removed now.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 07:07:39 pm
content: Step C6. Further disassembly of the GPIB and I/O interface can be performed.7. This is a picture of the main control board, after the removal of the shield.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 07:11:02 pm
content: Step D8. The two other digital boards can be removed with pull levers on either side. Be careful to make note of which cables are associated with each board for reassembly. Due to the tight fits of each board, be certain not to accidentally damage the components during removal.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 07:12:22 pm
content: Step E9. The capacitor bank, located directly in front of the chassis, can be removed with a few standard screws. Adjacent to the first bank, there is an identical capacitor bank in the front corner that will be removed later. I labelled them left and right with a marker so as not to confuse them when reinstalling.10. Each SMU channel has a pair of boards. Remove the first unshielded set by lifting the pull lever and the metal bracket so that board can be removed upward. Be careful to remove the wire connected to each of these boards. The wire has been identified with a circle.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 07:13:01 pm
content: Step F11. The second part of each SMU channel can be extracted by removing the screw indicated by the circle and the metal bracket at the back of the instrument. Gently lift the shielded board to disconnect the bottom socket and then moving the board backwards to compensate for the front panel jacks. These shielded boards act as the interface with the device under test and hold the most sensitive components.12. At this time, the second capacitor bank (located in the front corner, next to the transformers) should be removed so that the wire bundles can be removed from their sockets, to access the main power supply and heat sink.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 07:13:37 pm
content: Step G13. Now that most of the boards have been removed, it is possible to remove the main power supply. There are four screws on the bottom of the chassis and four standard-sized screws at the back panel as indicated by the squares in the previous picture. Shown below are the top (left) and bottom (right) of this major component. It is comprised of four circuit boards, arranged to make maximum use of the two aluminum heat sink channels. Two board pairs seem to be near identical as with many of the other boards seen for the purpose of two independent SMU channels. I can show a teardown of this later, as it is a highly complex assembly.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 07:14:11 pm
content: Step H14. To approach the front panel, both the top and bottom panelling must be removed to access the four hidden side screws as shown with circles below. Remove the ribbon cables from the rest of the instrumentation. If it is desirable to completely remove the front panel from the rest of the chassis, one must disconnect the power switch either from the switch itself or by the fuse/terminal bar from underneath the chassis.EDIT: There are an additional six screws to secure the front panel at the bottom (around the centre) and top (near the 2 SMU channels).15. There are three boards that make up the front panel, including the power module (left), a shielded vacuum display, and a keypad interface (right).

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 07:26:41 pm
content: FIRMWARE:(untested)EDIT: As the instrument has now turned on without any issues, I believe this firmware is working. Please backup your EPROMs before attempting these BIN files.Quote from: leighcorrigall on January 21, 2021, 07:07:39 pmQuote from: leighcorrigall on January 21, 2021, 07:11:02 pmI have copied the firmware from the EPROMs of both digital boards (quoted) and have attached them here for others to use. At this point, I do not know what version they are or whether they are working. When I find out, I will update this post accordingly.EDIT: The instrument displays the following message during bootup, which may indicate the firmware versionR6245 GPIB address = 17Rev= D91, D01, D01Note that the EPROM part numbers have been included as the prefix and the Advantest description has been included as a suffix.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 07:52:49 pm
content: As mentioned earlier,Quote from: leighcorrigall on January 21, 2021, 05:08:43 pmNo service manual is available. The instruction manual is written in Japanese and it does not appear to have details about repairing or troubleshooting, other than sending it back to a service centre.It appears that the instrument is either suffering from an overheating issue that burnt out components and/or a portion of the power supply is damaged. The internal fan operates, but there are multiple power supplies within the unit which might have failed (as indicated with the initial post images of what appears to be damage).Inspecting the control board indicates that there are test points that can be measured:Voltage measurements relative to ground:TP1 – 0 (GND)TP2 – 0.45 VDC (VCC) <--- Problem?TP3 – 12.9 VDC <--- PASSTP3E – 12.9 VDC <--- PASSThe EPROM M27C2001 VCC should be 5 DCV during operation. If this is true, then the supply voltage is significantly lower than it should be. From the attached image, can anyone confirm that the VCC is labelled TP2 and that it should be 5 V?If it is the case, then the front power module might be the problem.Quote from: leighcorrigall on January 21, 2021, 05:08:43 pm

author: serg-el
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 08:59:21 pm
content: Catalog 2007 and Expanded catalog and selection guide.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 10:06:59 pm
content: Quote from: leighcorrigall on January 21, 2021, 07:52:49 pmAfter the mains switch at the front, the line is fed into two labelled fuses underneath the rear transformer. They appear to be functioning correctly.The front panel power supply module is directly connected to the rear transformer via two pairs of white (#1) and red (#2) wiretaps.From the trace of the front panel power supply module, it appears that the colours are paired. This can be assumed because the connections are ordered to prevent mixing the white or red inputs if accidentally reversed. EDIT: I labelled the pins W and B because I am colourblind and assumed that the red wire was actually brown.white wire pair: 20.8 VACred wire pair: 11.5 VACfemale input connector:(white) (white) (---) (---) (red) (---) (red)male input connector on the board:(pin 6) (F2) (J3) (J3) (F1) (F1)There are two fuses (F1 and F2) on the power supply module adjacent to the transformer hookup jack (male input connector). By inspection, there does not seem to be a filament bridging the terminals of F1. This has been confirmed by measuring the resistance across the terminals from underneath the circuit board. The identifiers on the top of the fuse are as follows:FRPU5AROYALThe datasheet for this part has been attached to this post and matches the dimensions and description from the board.royal-fuse-HF-8.pdf(188.03 kB - downloaded 270 times.)I may have identified one of the problems with the unresponsive main control board and front panel.Before replacing the fuse, I should determine whether the transformers are outputting the correct voltages by finding the specifications online for these particular units. This will require removing the main control board to read the printed identifiers on the tightly mounted transformers.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 10:46:47 pm
content: Quote from: leighcorrigall on January 21, 2021, 10:06:59 pmThe identifier for the rear transformer (1 of 2) that provides power to the front panel power supply module is as follows:LTP-R6245CAOBOUNIHON KOHDENUnfortunately, there doesn't seem to be much information available for this specialized transformer.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2021, 11:30:44 pm
content: Quote from: serg-el on January 21, 2021, 08:59:21 pmThe datasheet was already posted.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2021, 12:16:44 am
content: Quote from: leighcorrigall on January 21, 2021, 10:06:59 pmA substitute part is available from Littlefuse. See attachment (273 and 274 Series). There are likely cheaper alternatives, but I wanted to find something that matched the original.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2021, 02:55:44 am
content: Well, there it is. I just turned a broken instrument into 5k USD with a fuse and a little investigation.I will continue posting more details about the instrument in the future for anyone that is interested in this type of test equipment.Thank you.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2021, 10:19:56 pm
content: Quote from: leighcorrigall on January 21, 2021, 05:08:43 pmAttached is a CAD model of the rear bumper that was severely damaged during shipping from Korea. Keep in mind that this is one of two isomers needed to produce all four bumpers. In other words, these are mirror images of each other.The fastener is comprised of the following assembly:M4 x 0.7 mm pan rounded Phillips screw, 25 mm in lengthflat washer with an 8 mm OD and a thickness of 0.5 mmsplit lock washer with a 6.5 mm OD and a thickness of 1 mm

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2021, 07:44:07 pm
content: Section 11 - Theory of Operations, ADCMT R6245 Instruction Manual (with English translations)The following figures have been provided to give the EEVBlog Forum members an opportunity to review the basic operational principles of this instrument.Figure 11-1 - Block DiagramFigure 11-2 - SMU Block DiagramNote: There are brief descriptions that are in Japanese that I do not have the ability to effectively translate.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2021, 07:32:57 pm
content: Rear Filter CageDue to the lack of air quality control for this instrument, I decided to design an air filter for the rear exhaust. It should be easily reproducible with a 3D printer.EDIT: This filter cage is too long. I have modified the design so that it should fit now. Please see the next iteration below.The filter material can be purchased from DigiKey and cut to size:https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/orion-fans/LFG172BF-PK/4741169

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2021, 07:49:54 pm
content: Axial Fan ReplacementThe original Brushless 12 DCV Sanyo Denki 109R1212H101 120x120x38 mm fan, which includes a pulse sensor, inside the R6245 is about 28 years old and still runs. However, I plan on replacing this obsolete fan with the 9WG1212E101-E from the same company having a 15 % improvement in airflow [3.34 m^3/min]. Note that the 9WG1212G101-E has slightly better performance (34 %), but I do not know the upper current threshold of the fan circuit. To be safe, I went with similarly matched specifications and will reuse the 3-pin socket from the original.The plan is to redirect the air intake from the rear of the unit to utilize a fan filter previously posted about. This way, I should be able to avoid cleaning the unit from contaminants. When I received this unit, it was the dirtiest thing I have ever had to clean.EDIT: The fan replacement is noticeably louder. This may offend some people, especially if you ride this down a small-town street dressed in leather.

author: 42Khz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2021, 11:32:02 am
content: Quote from: leighcorrigall on January 21, 2021, 10:46:47 pmThanks for the detailed teardown of this unit!I'm wondering, can the transformers be rewired for all different mains input voltage options? Specifically European mains.I couldn't quite make that out from your pictures and unfortunately I can't find any schematics either.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2021, 04:48:34 pm
content: Quote from: 42Khz on January 26, 2021, 11:32:02 amThe instruments are made for specific electrical mains according to the back panel (photo attached). You might be able to rewire an American/Japanese system to work in Europe given enough time and patience. Keep in mind that the volume available for this kind of job is extremely limited. The designers were extremely precise with their layout. Also, there are 5 fuses within the instrument that would need to be considered when converting this instrument to an alternate power system. Two are soldered to the front panel power supply. Two are below the transformers. One is located on the back panel as a panel fuse holder.After the two secondary fuses, most of the transformer taps of both transformers (two-channels) are connected directly to the bottom distribution board. You might have to replace the transformers to allow for 220 VAC, but I do not have much experience with such things.If you need more pictures, I can try to accommodate. Please give me an idea of what you want photographed and next time I disassemble the instrument, I will take them.As for the schematics, you won't find them easily unless you are literate in Japanese and can find some noble person on the web that has unofficially posted them. The company (ADCMT) only provides an instruction manual and a GPIB guide book in Japanese. So far, I do not have any schematics, other than the block diagrams provided above.I got lucky with my instrument because everything seems to function properly so far. Some of the keys are a bit sticky, but I think I can clean them out with some isopropanol once I have time.

author: 42Khz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2021, 01:58:05 pm
content: Quote from: leighcorrigall on January 27, 2021, 04:48:34 pmThanks for your detailed response!Yes I noticed the options, the datasheet even says you have to specify which one you want at the time of ordering.Replacing the fuses shouldn't be too difficult. I noticed the transformer in one of your photos has a label "120V", which got me curious as to whether it perhaps also has a 230V or 240V tap.Or perhaps two 120V windings that can be configured either in parallel for 120V mains or in series for 240V mains, like in e.g. the HP 3456A. The Advantest TR6142 does seem to have some similar configurability.I'd rather not have to swap out the transformers, I'm guessing it would be quite difficult and expensive to find suitable replacements.If you do ever take your unit apart again, could check the labeling on the transformers and whether they can be reconfigured?They do seem like very nice instruments (which got me interested in the first place). Congrats on your score!I might try to figure out the details of the IV clamp in the block diagram you posted.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2021, 09:12:53 pm
content: Quote from: leighcorrigall on January 25, 2021, 07:32:57 pmAn updated version of the filter cage has been provided. This should fit better than the last iteration. I am used to CNC machining tolerances, so I got a bit carried away.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2021, 09:37:44 pm
content: Quote from: 42Khz on January 28, 2021, 01:58:05 pmMy Advantest R8340 and R6245 both run fine even though I have a line input of 120 VAC. Odd that they never added an input voltage selector. My Advantest R6581T happens to have one.Attached are some photos I took while I was replacing the central fan. Hopefully, they will help you figure out what you are trying to do. I do not know what I am doing with this rat's nest of wires. Good luck and let me know if they help.The transformers can be taken out easily if you are careful and have had practice with the disassembly. They are mounted to the frame but in an awkward way. You might have to take most of the instrument apart as I have done.The instrument is amazing and I like it so far. I will document the performance here eventually. My next task is to calibrate it. The problem is that I am waiting for calibration standard (10k precision resistor and 10 DCV source) for my Advantest R6581T, and they arrive next month.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2021, 10:12:17 pm
content: Quote from: leighcorrigall on January 25, 2021, 07:49:54 pmThe fan replacement is noticeably louder. This may offend some people, especially if you ride this down a small-town street dressed in leather.I suggest reversing the fan direction so that the intake is from the rear. That way a filter can be applied.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2021, 10:19:29 pm
content: Quote from: leighcorrigall on January 22, 2021, 10:19:56 pmAttached is a representative picture of the printed part. There was no difficulty with attaching the part to the frame.

author: chekhov
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2021, 10:20:56 pm
content: Hi,It's great that these transformers have all required taps to reconfigure it from parallel 100 and 120V connections into series one in order to obtain 240V. Just need to sit with paper, draw it all carefully, and understand why there is a 0 and F (internal fuse) and how they are actually connected.

author: serg-el
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2021, 08:04:23 pm
content: Well, I'll try to help.The scheme looks something like this.For comparison, the scheme for reworking the transformer from ADVANTEST TR6150.BeforeAfter

author: flying_fred
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 14, 2021, 01:54:52 pm
content: Hello everybody,I also have this R6245 SMU for, I think, 4 years now and have already put it to good use. Many times.It definitively is a nice instrument.Several notes:- It can be rewired for other main voltage (I did it for 230V voltage) and is just a matter of jumper and wires to swap on a screw terminal bloc. Unfortunately I can't remember if I took some notes about this and right now the instrument is buried under a huge pile of other instruments for a running experiment, so right now I can't take pictures and it will be some time before I can do this. Anyway it is easy enough to figure out how to rewire it.- Please make sure to change the RAM battery on the CPU board. It is located next to the (custom IIRC) CPU and on the first SMU I bought, the battery leaks made an unrepairable mess of all this. (I was fortunate enough to then score for next to nothing the displayless version with a good CPU board)To Leigh, I've loooong search the web, contacted Advantest, ADCMT, and some others to get some manuals, to not avail. (only the japan GPIB programming manual is available on ADCMT site)From some of your posts I understand that you may have the (japan) user manual.Is it a paper or pdf manual?I would be thankful if you could post it somewhere (on ko4bb for example), that would be a great help to other owners.And in case it's a paper manual, I'm willing to help to have it professionnaly scanned.Thanks,Fred

author: 42Khz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2021, 02:33:14 pm
content: Quote from: flying_fred on February 14, 2021, 01:54:52 pmA broken R6246 is on its way to me, let's hope it doesn't have the CPU board issue you described. The seller said it locks up and shows only a few @ symbols on the display.I have anOCR'ed Japanese manual. I contacted Advantest, they told me there never was an English manual. Google translate won't eat it as it's too big, so you'd have to split it into pieces to get it through there.

author: flying_fred
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 14, 2021, 06:15:35 pm
content: Whoah, that's awesome. Thanks a million for that!I have been looking for it for four years now... How did you get it?Now, regarding your 6246 those symptoms were, unfortunately and IIRC, the very same that mine exhibitedLet's get finger crossed, but be prepared to hunt for a part mule.Again, the displayless one should be much cheaper (I believe I paid Eur90 or something for it), but lacking the "display working" information when bidding makes it some kind of a gamble. I was releived when receiving it to see the unit was perfectly OK.It is also way more rare, at least on auction.I expect the 6245 and 6246 share the same CPU board, apart from firmware code and the eprom is conveniently socketed. Mines were differing by some minor wire corrections but the new one flawlessly worked from start.For my first one to be in such a bad condition it must have been left on shelf for quite some time after it failed, letting corrosion do it's nasty work. You may have better luck and your might be in much better condition.Anyway, I still have the old board somewhere and should you need some unobtainium parts, please be my guest.Fred.

author: 42Khz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2021, 06:42:37 pm
content: Not a problem! I got it from serg-el actually (he also posted in this thread).I'm glad you have it now. I might see if I can pull it apart and feed it through some translator in pieces sometime.Oh nothat's not great... I had hoped it might be a display interface issue or maybe a power supply here or there.I was considering replacing the digital guts with some modern micro as a backup plan. Although restoring the originals would be much nicer.It was calibrated in late 2019, so let's hope the issue is very recent.What is this displayless version you speak of? Is it an alternative model?Thanks for your generous offer!I'll post some picture here when my unit arrives.

author: flying_fred
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 14, 2021, 08:09:57 pm
content: When I got mine, I too was expecting for an easy fix, as it is most often the case.Those instruments are intended for semi-fab factories (who would need that, otherwise, when most electronics design offices don't know there elbow from their arse, today? And I know quite a few...),For lab use, as I use mine, and you probably would, the display is useful, indeed, but on a factory floor, where it will almost always be GPIB driven, the display is not needed and has been cancelled, as well all the keys. I guess more for improved reliability reasons than to cut on cost.From what I understand they can also be used as slave units from a complete master one, to allow for complex measurement cases where lots of channels may be required.Those displayless units are labeled R6245A (mind the final "A") and only have on front panel a GPIB address setting dip switch and a few status leds, plus the 6 triax sockets. You can find some not very meaningful mention of this in the datasheet and you can see it on page 3-9 (51) of my brand new manual.From what I understand there is no displayless R6246.As for automatic translation, it might prove to be somewhat epic, as when I tried one or two illustrations titles, japanese ancestors pointed their noses out with some totally unrelated "sword" words, and so on...Still, as I intend to GPIB program it, at least this part will need to be translated. And the 6245/46 is different enough from the R6243 I also have a pair of, and for which an english manual is available, that the 6243 manual is as unhelpful as can be.Maybe we can setup a coordinated effort on this matter?If some others are interested please, please tell.Back to the instrument, I don't know how general this is a problem or not, but mine also have unbearable keyboard bounce issues, to the point that I plan to change the all switches next time I open it. (I believe those are some standard tactile ones)

author: serg-el
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2021, 08:55:58 pm
content: Quote from: flying_fred on February 14, 2021, 08:09:57 pmSurely there are the same buttons as in the R6143.The fix is simple - the pusher is removed, the contacts are cleaned with a fiberglass stick. Aluminum sanitary tape is glued to the rubber button.

author: 42Khz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2021, 11:36:56 am
content: Quote from: flying_fred on February 14, 2021, 08:09:57 pmThat makes sense. I wasn't aware there was such a version of the instrument, thanks for the info. I've saved an ebay search in case I need itIndeed, I gave automatic translation a quick try and what came out was fairly garbled, stuff about vacations and homes. It might turn out nearly as difficult to understand as it is in Japanese.I guess it would be prohibitively expensive to get the manual professionally translated, even if the cost were spread over a few people.I have a GPIB to USB adapter on the way as well, I wouldn't mind helping out in documenting out the GPIB commands. That is, if I can get my unit working.

author: flying_fred
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 15, 2021, 12:05:23 pm
content: Hi serg-el,thanks for this, but this is not the kind of switch that we find on a 6245.I do have a R6245, two R6243, one R6143 and one TR6142.I never paid attention to the differences between keys (I very rarely use the 6143 and 6142), but having a check at it now I can see that both the 6142 and 6143 (same generation?) have soft rubber keys.The 6243 and 6245, without any doubt, have the hard clicky feeling and sound of metallic dome tact switches.What I expect is that those are not of the metallic-dome-on-PCB-pads kind that we find on some cheap mass production items, but that would be surprising.As for the soft rubber keys, those are available on the japan yahoo auction site at a correct price (Y6000 per 30, which is about €1.50) if that helps.

author: serg-el
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2021, 01:17:03 pm
content: Okay.Let's say they are of this type.As in R6581.These tact buttons should be removed. Otherwise, they don't understand well.Flip the black rubber over. Gently wipe the round, gold-plated pad.Clean the inside of the contacts with a fiberglass stick.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2021, 07:26:00 pm
content: Quote from: flying_fred on February 14, 2021, 06:15:35 pmSorry, I haven't looked at this thread in a while. The manual can be downloaded fromhttps://www.adcmt.com/.Switch to the Japanese website, not the English, and then search for R6245. You will have to fill out a page to get access to the manual. It is rather large, so I did not share it on this website.Hopefully, this link will work:https://fo-pro.s3.ap-northeast-1.amazonaws.com/files/5d24069af875dd60ae000565/6245-series-ope-foj-8335159g00.pdfAs for anEnglish Translation, I have already put considerable effort into doing so. Obviously, it is incomplete, but maybe we can find a platform to combine our efforts so that we can complete the task more efficiently?English Translation:Table of ContentsSection 2 - Before Using (partially)Section 10 - Troubleshooting (useless information)Section 11 - Theory of OperationsSection 12 - Calibration

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2021, 07:33:52 pm
content: Quote from: 42Khz on February 14, 2021, 06:42:37 pmThere are three variations:R6245 (channels: SMU220-2, SMU220-2)R6245A - GPIB interface only variation of the R6245R6246 (channels: SMU220-2, SMU62-20) high-current

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2021, 01:56:58 am
content: Attached is a translation of most of Section 12 (Calibration), including figures.Please note that I am unable to finish the "calibration of the current generation and current measurement" example code right now because my eyes hurt from looking at the screen.The document has been left as a DOCX (7-zipped due to website restrictions) because there might be translation errors that you can fix on your own. I tried my best to read over everything as a quality check, but I have yet to attempt a calibration.If you find mistakes, please let me know and I will update what I have. If you want to contribute, I would be happy to share content with you here.どうもありがとうございましたEDIT: I removed the original upload as there is now a revision that completes the Google Translation.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2021, 11:58:10 pm
content: Quote from: leighcorrigall on March 28, 2021, 01:56:58 amAttached is a Section 12 update with the final code example. As I do not know the Japanese language, there will be mistakes. I have not attempted to calibrate the instrument yet and will not fully appreciate the context of the calibration procedure language.Has anyone attempted to calibrate the Advantest R6245? If so, do you have a procedure that you can share? Thanks.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2021, 12:28:56 am
content: Quote from: serg-el on February 09, 2021, 08:04:23 pmHi, serg-el. Can you please help a colourblind noob convert this 90 - 110 VAC configured the system to a 108 - 132 VAC? I don't mind opening it up again to verify a few wires.From what I understand, I just need to swap some of the terminal connectors to an arrangement appropriate to the 117 VAC supply in my house.

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2021, 12:52:04 pm
content: Thank you so much, serg-el!You are the hero we need.

author: wichers
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 25, 2023, 09:27:18 pm
content: I implemented apymeasureinstrument driver for the Advantest/ADCMT R6245/R6246. From the 99 GPIB functions there is only a handful of commands (it's only binary/linear search & high-speed sequences) that still need to be implemented.The (translated) documentation is quite complete already, and includes some BASIC to Python translated examples. Check it out here:https://pymeasure.readthedocs.io/en/latest/api/instruments/advantest/advantestR624X.html

author: mmathor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2023, 08:06:41 am
content: Hi,Thanks to everyone who share information about R6245/6246.I try to translate complete Manual from Japanese language. Only some of samples in Chapter 8 GPIB are not translated.https://www.dropbox.com/s/fjah6dbspo23ckh/ADCMT%20R6245_R6246%20-%20Instruction%20Manual%20Rev%201.pdf?dl=0If somebody have information about simple but powerful GPIB app or software it will be very appreciated.Regrads

author: TrexREXX
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2023, 08:53:42 am
content: EZGPIBhttp://www.ulrich-bangert.de/html/downloads.html

author: wichers
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 28, 2023, 07:10:31 am
content: Quote from: mmathor on January 27, 2023, 08:06:41 amThank you for this great work!Quote from: mmathor on January 27, 2023, 08:06:41 amOf course I am going to saypymeasure. I am by no means a python fanboy, but I really see the benefit of wrapping the GPIB commands for this instrument. The raw R6245/R6246 GPIB commands are just terrible: Booleans are all over the place (True/False are both sometimes 1 or 2), the channel parameter is not always in the same place and integers instead of enum's makes raw commands a pain.Dual channel measurement is such a pleasure right now:Code:smu = AdvantestR6246("GPIB::1")smu.reset() # Set default parameterssmu.ch_A.set_sample_mode(SampleMode.PULSED_SYNC) # Pulsed synchronizedsmu.ch_A.voltage_source(source_range = VoltageRange.AUTO,source_value = 20,current_compliance = 0.06)smu.ch_A.measure_current()smu.ch_B.current_source(source_range = CurrentRange.AUTO,source_value = 1E-5, # Source current at 10 uAvoltage_compliance = 5) # Voltage compliance at 5 Vsmu.ch_B.measure_voltage()smu.enable_source() # Enables source A & Bfor i in range(10, 60):k = i * 0.000001smu.ch_B.current_change_source = k # Set current from 10 uA to 60 uAsmu.trigger() # Trigger measurementsmu.ch_A.select_for_output()Ic = smu.read_measurement() # Read channel A measurementsmu.ch_B.select_for_output()Vbe = smu.read_measurement() # Read channel B measurementprint(f'Ic={Ic}, Vbe={Vbe}') # Print measurementssmu.standby() # Put channel A & B in standby

author: mmathor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2023, 02:47:35 pm
content: Hi,Thanks for information and I will test both because I'm a little rusty in python.I tried to calibrate R6246 with front panel with no success. I think that calibration in only possible with GPIB. If anybody know more about calibration without GPIB, please share information.Best regards

author: aronake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2024, 05:41:11 pm
content: Quote from: serg-el on July 13, 2021, 06:27:51 amThe link for this picture do not seem to work anymore. Would someone have the picture downloaded and could post it again?

author: serg-el
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2024, 07:45:00 pm
content: Works

author: leighcorrigall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2025, 04:23:46 pm
content: Quote from: serg-el on July 13, 2021, 06:27:51 amI had a tough time trying to figure out this schematic, so I made my own drawings.Please note that the transformers are connected elsewhere, not just the terminal bar.Attached are the original 100 VAC Japanese and the 120 VAC North American configurations.

author: syau
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2025, 10:23:36 am
content: Just converted a 100V version to 220V