hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Hakko 808 - Solder sticking near end of heating element. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: UF8FF
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 02:36:29 am
content: Greetings all,I'm desoldering another older board and I am having to unclog the nozzle abut every 5th desolder. I should say, it's not actually the nozzle, it seems to get stuck at the end of the heating element. Is this normal? Or does it sound like something might be bad?Thanks!
Hakko 888 Hack Help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TheUltraNoob
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 11, 2012, 03:14:47 pm
content: Greetings,I was kinda torn as if I should put this in the Hakko 888 Hack discussion or in the Beginner section so, I thought I'd put it here so others could learn from my mistakes.I'm doing the Hakko 888 hack as outlined in Dave's video blog but with a difference - I am using a common anode RGB LED from Radio Shack. It can be found here -http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3020765I'm also using Daves origional pass at the circuit with a couple of slight modifications. Here is my circuit diagram:Right now I've got this in a proto board connected to the Hakko and it works just fine but with a twist. When you first turn on the Hakko and the iron is heating BOTH the red and green LED light up. The green is much brighter than the red. I'd say the green is at 100% and the red is at 50%. Once the iron comes up to temp then the red and green cycle just fine.On a side note: The reason for the 4k and 8k resistors was to tame the brighness of the LED. That sucker really was bright.Anyway, can anyone comment on what I've done wrong here?Best regards,The Ultra Noob
Hakko 888D upgrade to Micro Pencil FM2032 ? Comparison - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Reprobyte
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2018, 08:41:35 pm
content: Hi people, my first post but I've read through for a good while, love the forum!I have the Hakko 888D standard iron but even with the T18-BR02 and D1.2 tips I struggle to work on some smaller projects eg tiny stuff like changing microscopic size fuses etc, too clunky to get in there easilyDoes anyone have a side by side comparison of the 888D iron to the FM2032 micro pencil so I can check the size diff and see if it would really be worth the upgrade to a 951 and 2032Any help appreciatedthanks!!

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2018, 11:22:48 pm
content: You can see all the different tip shapes on Hakko website.The 2032 will give you a more limited tip selection at over 3x the price.The main reason to spend money for 2032 is shorter tip to grip distance and smaller, lighter pencil. Nothing to do with tips.If you want to improve your SMD soldering and make your life easier:1. buy and use liquid flux2. improve your lighting3. buy CF tips for your iron. T18 CF(1-3)4. buy a stereo microscope.in that order.If you want to buy a new soldering iron:1.buy a new soldering iron.Smaller and finer tips are the solution you might think you need, but the shape of the tip and learning how solder behaves when fully fluxed are what get you to the end game. Fine pitch SMD soldering isn't miniature thru-hole soldering. The efficiency of small SMD parts is achieved by a different strategy and relies on the effects of surface tension of and gravity on de-oxidized solder, and the shape of the wettable surface of the iron and the pcb pads.

author: Reprobyte
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2018, 10:17:03 pm
content: Thanks so much for taking the time to write a detailed reply, I will take all your points into consideration and especially look into the tips! Do want a stereo microscope at some point too, but I don't know my microscope brands well enough.
hakko 936 not heating up - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rem
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 20, 2019, 06:23:29 pm
content: hello,i have a problem with the hakko not heating up.i replaced the heating element a few weeks ago and it worked fine.today it does not work. i bought the heating element fro aliexpres.i searched what things to check and found in a video that the value of resistance of the heating and the sensor should be below 10ohm in my casethe heating element is 12.5ohm and O.L on the sensor.is that mean the heating element is bad?tnx in advanced

author: magic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2019, 09:47:26 pm
content: Yes, it's bust. The heater should be a few ohms, the sensor is supposed to be around 100Ω depending on temperature. Perhaps its cable broke?https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/genuine-vs-fake-hakko-936-ceramic-heater-a1321/msg239393/#msg239393Beware that there are non-compatible heaters for knockoff stations which won't work in genuine Hakko. Use only A1321 types.
HAKKO 937 Controller PCB transformer help? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: FoxTwo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 19, 2017, 07:20:01 pm
content: Hello, I bought used HAKKO 937 Controller PCB (genuine), because I dont have original transformer, could somebody please check values on original transformer volts and amps or post image? or measure it? I would appreciate it.And I'm wondering is the Hakko 937 transformer a multi tap - with common 0V -all same coil ? 24-9-0V ?example
Hakko 939 Replacement Case  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TorqueRanger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 09:28:55 pm
content: well I tried to repair my busted up hakko 939 but some how alot fo the broken pieces went missing when I moved and I can't seem to find a replacement case and yes I have googled and called many companies but no one has one in stock... So do I purchase a new iron or just find a project box that will fit it and use that??Here are a couple suggestions I think would workSo what do you guys think??

author: Thor-Arne
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 10, 2012, 11:04:14 pm
content: I'd go for the one in extruded aluminum, it might be a bit small though.

author: TorqueRanger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2012, 12:39:27 am
content: Also found this but this more of what I was looking for ..http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1456FH3.pdf

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2012, 12:54:01 am
content: Full set clone case, with spare controllerhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/HAKKO-936-Soldering-Iron-Station-Controller-New-Housing-Case-Compatible-DIY-/130614660049?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e693d8bd1#ht_4003wt_1280
Hakko 939 Soldering Station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TorqueRanger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2012, 06:56:58 pm
content: I purchased this off ebay awhile ago but when it was shipped it got all busted up or the guy just sold it to me like that but anyways ... It needs a case and every I go they want $50 for a case and just wanted to know if you guys could come up with a cheaper option?

author: poptones
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2012, 07:43:31 pm
content: The case was busted but you have all the parts?Epoxy?

author: TorqueRanger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2012, 08:53:48 pm
content: Tried that but it didn't held together and is now coming apart..

author: ablacon64
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2012, 09:13:43 pm
content: I do it using the same technique to fix wire insulation. Glue the parts together and then get the same type of plastic and melt it around the cracks. You can use an old iron to do that. Melt it good, no matter how bad it will look. then have a 400 sandpaper to remove the excess and a 1000 sandpaper to finish. After that use silicone to renew the plastic. It's gonna be like new.In Brazil we have a low viscosity "super glue", like Super Bonder or "Crazy Glue" but stronger, it's name is 725 (basically some solution of ethyl cyanoacrylate), use something like that to hold the parts together before melting the plastic. Clean all the parts very well before applying the glue.

author: ptricks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2012, 02:11:04 am
content: There are epoxies designed specifically for plastic.Most of the epoxies sold are generic fit all situations and are not the best option with serious repairs. Look for epoxy that specifically targets plastic and not the ones that say glass, plastic, metal, wood all in one.
hakko 951 sleep help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sofaires
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 30, 2019, 01:42:20 am
content: hello everyone, new here on the forum. i need a little help with this stationi changed the temperature and it stopped going to sleep after reaching the set temperature so i looked a few videos that were on another language and i could managed to get it to go to sleep but now it goes to sleep on use or when i put it in the holder.my question is, is there a setting to make it go to sleep only when i put it in the holder?i know how to enter the hidden menu and all just need the settings to do that, i really don't want to mess with the settings because they are like an old alarm clock with no indicator of what you are changing and what not.i appreciate it if anyone knows this settings, thanks in advance!

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 30, 2019, 04:28:28 pm
content: Power off and insert the card. Hold the up and down buttons together and power on. Continue to hold until you see 1-C or 2-F, then release. Press the * button and you will move to the sleep settings. 2 0 on the display means that it will go into sleep mode as soon as it is on the cradle. if you see any thing else like 2 10 or whatever, pressing the down arrow button should get you back to 2 0. If that doesn't do it, you might have to use the up button to cycle through all the minutes settings until you get back to 2 0. Then press the * button to save setting. Hope this helps.
Hakko fm 202 opinions in 2019 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Kfire778
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2019, 03:46:58 am
content: As the title says, I am just looking for modern day opinion of the hakko fm 202. My plan is to purchase a second hand fm 202 for $140ish dollars, with a set of fm 2023 hot tweezers. I already have a FX951 for my iron so the 202 will only be used for the tweezers. I have been looking an have noticed there is no information redially available on calibrating the temp so if you know anything about that please feel free to include it also.
Hakko FM-2028-type stand/holder - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Kalvin
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2017, 02:35:01 pm
content: Hi,Any suggestions for the Hakko FM-2028-type soldering iron handle holder / stand with a place for a sponge? The handle is similar used in the Hakko FX-951 station, using T12 tips.The original holder costs $$$, but I would like to buy something with low budget from eBay which would be suitable for the FM-2028-type handle. Going through the offerings at eBay is quite challenging as I cannot determine mechanical compatibility with the handle.Have you found a good yet inexpensive holder / stand for your Hakko FM-2028 handle from eBay?

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2017, 10:25:41 pm
content: good luck, i have already done this search on ebay, aliexpress, farnell, RS and some other places.all i can say is that blackjack solderwerkz and circuit solutions sell T12 based stations, but i have no idea if they will sell the stand on it's own.otherwise you need to fabricate something.i am looking into that option now - maybe starting with a desktop microphone-stand as the base,

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2017, 10:50:44 pm
content: Not sure if the iron would fit nicely but there is this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/390795313599I wouldn't get too caught up on a stand that contains brass wool. I find it much easier to clean the tip holding a 599B container in my hand (they make generic ones). I wipe the iron across the top of the brass wool (as opposed to plunging it in the center) faster and cleans crud down off the tip instead of pushing it up the tip.

author: stj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2017, 12:20:44 am
content: no,the problem as i see it is T12 irons have more handle than "shaft" so the old designs are going to have balance issues.you either need the end of the handle to engage into something or you need to aproach the problem from a new angle.i'm looking into a stand the handle rests on with the tip higher than the cable - a radical shift from the usual way of doing it!

author: Kalvin
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2017, 01:59:41 pm
content: Thanks guys!eBay "Antex ST6 Soldering Iron Stand" looks pretty promising. eBay "Ledsol-50" is advertised to be compatible with FM-2028/2027, but it is not very inexpensive.Some other suggestions?
Hakko FR-802 Air Control Knob Not Working? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mvp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 27, 2013, 05:19:10 am
content: I have a Hakko FR-802. Was working beautiful until today when i noticed the little ball was not moving. I tried turning the air control knob both directions, and the ball still didn't move. I usually keep the air flow around 20-25. The ball just sits in one place slightly bouncing around.Suggestions?
Hakko Fr-810B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: stayboe
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 15, 2017, 03:19:10 am
content: Hi all. I hope someone can help. I have just purchased a Hakko FR-810B Hot air station and am trying to set it up with pre-set temps. I have currently set it up so it starts in pre-set mode. I have set P1 to P5 with different temps and air flow. The thing I am getting confused with is that when I turn it on it shows P5 I can push the start button and it goes to the temp P5 it is programmed to. But I can’t start it on P1 or any of the others except P5. Do I have to move the pre-set selection P1 to P5 or am I missing something. I would have thought when I turned it on I could use the up and down buttons to select between P1 and P5 and then just push start.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2017, 03:37:29 am
content: Have you read the manual? You press the up button to move between presets, as long as they are enabled (parameter 11).

author: stayboe
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 15, 2017, 03:52:15 am
content: Thanks for your reply. Yes I have read the manual and parameter 11 is set to 1. When I turn it on it goes to P5 if I push the up button it goes to P1 and then flashes P1 /100 /---/ then goes back to P5.
Hakko FX-8804 from Japan using 240V FX-888D base station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: gregoreau
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 12, 2023, 02:35:48 am
content: Hello,I have a Hakko FX-888D soldering station and I’m looking at getting FX-8804 hot tweezers which can be plugged into an FX-888D base station instead of the soldering iron.I’d like to order it from Japan as it’s significantly cheaper and wanted to confirm my assumptions that it’ll work fine on my Australian 240v FX-888D.From reading the spec sheet, the base station outputs 26V AC which is what the FX-8804 needs. Since it’s the base station transforming 240v here or 100V in Japan to the 26V AC that the FX-8804 needs, I can’t see why it would matter if I order one from Japan? The only thing I can think of is the difference in frequency which I don’t think would matter?Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
hakko fx-888 looking for transformer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jbomba
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2012, 04:02:57 pm
content: Hey guys ive recently purchased a hakko fx-888 off amazon because i had a gift voucher for there and didnt really need anything else. Anyway im looking for a suitable transformer to run this thing on 230v that will fit insite the casing. Ive seen a few guys on these forums have done it and im wondering where abouts they sourced there transformer from.

author: RCMR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2012, 06:32:00 pm
content: Internal (replacement) transformer or external?What country are you in (Oz or Godzone)?

author: jbomba
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2012, 11:27:35 am
content: Hi im in oz would like an internal one if i can get it cheap enough would prefer not to run it through a bulky external

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2012, 11:23:13 am
content: Find the right one, too high voltage will cause the heater to fail prematurely.

author: amspire
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2012, 12:46:45 pm
content: The external transformers do not have to be too bulky. If you want one just big enough for the soldering iron, this one should do:http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=M8182I think you can get them cheaper on ebay.Richard
Hakko FX-888 stopped working... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kasumyku
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2013, 02:08:25 am
content: I thought replacing my $35 Mastercraft Soldering station (which worked fine for the past 2 years) and investing in a better soldering iron like FX-888,but I used it only max 10 times and it stopped working.Only when I turn it off the led blinks for a fraction of a sec and thats about it from my FX-888, it wont heat up or do anything else. I opened it to look for cold joints and fuse,which looks fine,also other stuff like tightening the tip, but everything looks fine.Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!!!(still a newbie in electronics so don't know what else to look for to try fixing it)

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2013, 03:04:11 am
content: Have you considered doing a warranty claim? I won't mess with new stuff unless I already void the warranty. And since there is no warranty seal, as long as you don't mess with the insides, they won't care.It could be the the cable is broken or you haven't plugged it in properly.

author: smashedProton
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2013, 05:50:42 am
content: I would check the fuse. To state the obvious

author: amspire
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2013, 05:52:57 am
content: Look at the maintenance section of the manual. It describes how to check the resistances of the heater element and temp sensor - a failing element is the most likely reason for a soldering iron to stop working.You will probably want some spare elements and tips anyway. If the element has gone, tell the supplier and they may agree to send a replacement. It is much cheaper for them then sending out a replacement soldering iron. You probably want to get some spares anyway.http://www.cypax.dk/pdf/FX-888%20manual.pdf

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2013, 05:59:44 am
content: Some elements can be damaged (cracked -> open circuit) if the iron suffers a sharp blow such as falling onto a hard surface.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2013, 06:07:34 am
content: Quote from: kasumyku on April 10, 2013, 02:08:25 amThere are several rumours/reports of fake FX-888s on ebay. Did you buy yours from a reputable and authorized dealer?

author: kasumyku
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2013, 05:04:05 pm
content: Thank you everyone for your replies!Found the problem: tested all wires for continuity and found one of the sensor wires broke from the plug preventing the unit to turn on. My Hakko is back in business

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2013, 09:30:47 pm
content: A broken wire after 10 minutes of use sounds very odd for a genuine Hakko product. Not impossible of course, but could indicate a fake.
Hakko FX-950 Line Voltage - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Attorney
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2020, 02:35:53 pm
content: I recently acquired a NOS Hakko FX-950 soldering station. However, it's a 100V (Japan) model, not 120V for USA. Anyone know if it can be used on 120VAC without modification? If necessary, Amazon sells inexpensive 100V/120V converters that are suitable for the power level. Thanks!Paul

author: Attorney
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2020, 02:43:39 pm
content: Ok, the Hakko FX-950 does operate on standard U.S. 120VAC. However, after five minutes, it goes to sleep and there's no way of changing it. In fact, the sleep mode normally only works with the magnetic switch option which I don't have. When I place the Hakko on a Variac and set it to 100V, the Japanese utility voltage standard, it works fine.Amazon and other on-line sources have step-down transformer converters. While I can succumb to an add-on device, I would really like to step the voltage down inside the Hakko. I can try to size a step-down transformer to fit in the compact case although I think that's being overly optimistic. So, does anyone know of a switching 120VAC-100VAC converter on a small PC board that may fit?Paul

author: Attorney
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2021, 01:47:52 am
content: I found the correct transformer part number for 120V operation. The replacement transformer is Hakko part number B2836. I made a purchase through TEquipment.com. Price was USD $26. That's cheaper than the 120V to 100V converter I was considering and doesn't require tethering the Hakko 950 to another device.Paul

author: Mikek400
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2023, 08:44:05 pm
content: I had the same problem but found a slightly different solution.Used some properly sized magnet wire to add a winding and wired it out of phase to reduce the secondary voltage back to approx 28V. Thanks for the info. Thought I had a problem with my unit at first.
Hakko  FX-951 or JBC CD-2BD - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jaaa1976
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2015, 09:03:59 am
content: Hello everybody..Please help me decide which soldering station buy today.HAKKO FX951-51 with 3 tips ..I can buy from uk original japanese or JBC CD-2BD Single Digital Soldering Station with T245 Handpiece .. also can buy from uk and from ebay ..Im need station also for cleaning bga .. want buy wide tip.http://www.dancap.co.uk/soldering/fx951.htmlhttps://kaisertech.co.uk/jbc-cd-2bd-single-digital-soldering-station-with-t245-handpiecehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191542882280?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

author: xenocide702
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2015, 11:35:09 am
content: We use Hakko 951s at work, they're GREAT irons. I also personally own a JBC CD-1BC which I use at work.If I had to pick a favorite, it'd be my JBC. It's easier to swap tips, easier to control temperature, and the sleep/hibernate features are easier to use and work better. As for thermal capacity, there's not much between them. The JBC may have a slight edge, but they're both very capable irons.EDIT: I should also mention that I haven't used a wide tip on the JBC yet, but the 0.6" hakko tip works great. I didn't have to turn up the temperature at all.

author: jaaa1976
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2015, 12:32:38 pm
content: ok 1+ for JBC
Hakko FX888D which solder tip fro working with a raspberry - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rggefrm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 05, 2017, 08:24:34 pm
content: Hi,I have read a lot of good things about the Hakko FX888D solderstation. I'm palnning to do some work with a raspberry pi und have problems to choose the right tip. The distributor pointed me to the webpagehttp://www.dancap.co.uk/soldering/TipsT18.htmI'm not clear which tip or tips to choose. I would be grateful if someone could make some suggestions.Best WishesFrank

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2017, 08:45:19 pm
content: What kind of work you want to do? If you have no soldering skills at all, then you are likely to kill that RPi. Better train on something else first.And tips don't matter that much if you know what you are doing, it is mostly a matter of personal preference.

author: rggefrm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 05, 2017, 11:01:55 pm
content: Dear ataradovmany thanks. In the first instance I have to solder the GPIO header onto the Pi. Yes, I have solder experience but have not practice in the last 30 yearsFrank

author: RayRay
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2017, 11:08:16 pm
content: I'd say the T18-D24 would be a good choice for that line of work.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2017, 11:09:42 pm
content: Any tip will do for .1" connectors. You can get fussy if you are doing some 0402 rework, but for big stuff like that, it does not matter.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2017, 11:49:36 pm
content: >FX888Dits ok I guess,terribleuser interfaceget a flat tip, avoid needle dick ones

author: Distro
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 12:52:35 am
content: I have one and I always use the T18-DXX ones, I can't remember which size exactly, but probably the D24 as was suggested. The flat ones make the job so much easier than those pencil ones.

author: GoneTomorrow
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 04:45:16 am
content: D24 is probably my most used tip. I also have a D32 for big bastard stuff, and a D16 for really tiny SMD work,

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 05:44:31 am
content: Definitely T18-C3, bevel tips are much more useful than you think.

author: jericho.ar
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 13, 2017, 09:51:39 pm
content: I agree. I personally use the T18-C1 a lot more than I thought I would.
Hakko iron tips - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TorqueRanger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2012, 02:03:45 am
content: I am looking for some tips for a Hakko 907 iron but I want to stay away from Ebay and tried several companies but they need a min order... So do you guys know where I can get a couple tips within the USA and not charge me an arm and leg?ThanksJAy

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2012, 03:58:52 am
content: Personally i've not found much difference between brand name tips and generic tips in terms of soldering performance.Maybe they last a bit longer but i'd prefer to pay less and get more tipsI'm sure someone on here will be able to help you find somewhere that sells official tips.

author: Fluxed Matter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2012, 04:13:14 am
content: Where in the US are you located?

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2012, 12:04:35 pm
content: EZ, go to Hakko USA direct, no minimum, and the S&H cost is embedded in the list price.
Hakko Soldering Station - Clone - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Lunat1c
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2011, 05:01:56 pm
content: Are these soldering stations any good? Not that I expect them to be first class but how's their value for money? Being from europe it costs a fortune to ship a good weller/hakko station from overseas but these come with Free P&P.e.g.http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/220V-SOLDERING-STATION-IRON-TOOL-WELDING-60W-936-/190500201942?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item2c5ab265d6#ht_3820wt_905

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 19, 2011, 05:07:32 pm
content: my gut feeling is: too good to be true but hey, I'm no expert

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2011, 05:35:04 pm
content: They do work. I wouldn't want one in a professional workshop, and they would probably break quickly under heavy 8h/day x 5days/week usage in a workshop, but they are usable for hobby work. Don't expect superior quality, but they typically get hot and keep their temperature.The eBay item you pointed to will be shipped from China. So your local customs might collect duties for it, which might make it more expensive than you would expect.http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/soldering-irons.htmlsells cheap soldering stations directly in the UK, but their 936 clone is currently out of stock.

author: Lunat1c
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2011, 05:44:58 pm
content: QuoteI checked and apparently they don't collect duties for anything <$150 and no VAT for anything <$30.pcb-soldering.co.uk seems to have some nice soldering stations indeed. In fact this one seems great:http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/atten-at938d-professional-60w-soldering-station.htmlThe only downside is that it would cost 24GBP just to ship it. More than half its price!! I hate the fact that I don't live in mainland europe

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 19, 2011, 06:46:30 pm
content: I always say that 'the cheapest tools are the expensive ones', but I appreciate not everyone can afford investing in one.At this price range, a variable temperature soldering station is screaming that some major cost-reductions were made.Therefore, for this price point, I feel it is better to buy a fixed temperature soldering iron from Ersa, Weller or Antex, also from ebay. Temperature control is overrated.Alex

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 19, 2011, 07:05:03 pm
content: I find I can work quite well with a nice antex iron, I currently use the 12W version, it costs £18 and the tips are around £ 3-4, I use the 2.3mm and 1mm depending on the work I'm doing.
Half-bridge Series Resonant Inverter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: JimStephens
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 02, 2014, 08:40:23 pm
content: Hi all,Long time lurker, I am a second engineering student and searched the forum for similar threads but did not find anything.I am looking at half-bridge series resonant inverter research papers on in induction heating. I just would like to know I am understanding its operation correctly.The AC mains is rectified to DC and passed through the inverter that switches at high frequencies (high frequency pulses) which produces high frequency magnetic waves that cause eddy currents and hysteresis is the cooking pot causing it to heat up?I can see there are some variations to the circuit design but the idea is the same?ThanksJS

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2014, 12:46:46 am
content: That's the basic idea, yes; though a practical implementation contains more than a few additional control, feedback and protection circuits.Tim
Half circle thru hole PCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: vitormhenrique
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 15, 2015, 03:28:01 am
content: Hello Guys,Quick question, is there a correct name for this half circle thru hole via*(?) that you could use on your PCB to make it "solderable" on a different board?I'm attaching pictures of what I'm talking about.Another question is, does anyone know an eagle library that has it? I'm more interested on one like the Particle Photon, that has both the regular thru hole and the half circle one.Thanks!Vitor Henrique

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 15, 2015, 03:31:09 am
content: Castellated holeshttp://www.viasystems.com/documents/technology/application-note-castellated-holes.pdf

author: janekm
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 15, 2015, 03:39:05 am
content: Quote from: vitormhenrique on July 15, 2015, 03:28:01 amBTW the Chinese PCB manufacturers do often call them "half-holes" like you didThey tend to cost extra, presumably due to extra wear on the milling bits?

author: LukeW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2015, 03:42:55 am
content: It requires checking with your PCB fab house before you do the layout, to check what's acceptable and what their design rules are for these kinds of castellated pads.
Half Digits Are Missing On Kitchen Timer's Display - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Boris_yo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2013, 11:12:43 am
content: This timer was always hung on wall and never dropped but recently it is missing half of its digits. Tried replacing LR44 battery but to no avail but one thing worked and it is applying some pressure on display. Have a look on this video:Also sometimes as buttons are pressed, display starts to blink. I obviosuly cannot remain with my fingers on display because it will defeat timer's purpose. I assume that botom of some panel got loose and that is why I don't see digits fully?

author: aaron
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2013, 11:44:36 am
content: I might actually know this one....I've had small clocks like that, that did the exact same thing, it was the "conductive silicone rubber connector" (According to Google, that's what they're called)http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00fCFTOkRhABco/Conductive-Rubber-Connectors.jpgAnd yeah they become loose, although I guess yours might be totally different.

author: JoannaK
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2013, 11:48:10 am
content: Those conductive strips, Zebrastrips, are quite often the problem with lcd devices. little bit of dirt, oxidation and perhaps a bit loose contact.

author: Boris_yo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2013, 09:17:08 am
content: Thanks for your responses guys. What had to be done after dismantling is reattaching PCB and tightening of screws.
Half step bipolar motor? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Eoiser
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 18, 2014, 01:21:20 pm
content: Can i half step a 4 wire bipolar stepper motor? Would it make any difference?Ive heard somewhere that half step is for 6 wire motors.Here is my codePORTD = 0b00000101; //AB_delay_ms(100);PORTD = 0b00000100; //B_delay_ms(100);PORTD = 0b00000110; //-A B_delay_ms(100);PORTD = 0b00000010; //-A_delay_ms(100);PORTD = 0b00001010; //-A -B_delay_ms(100);PORTD = 0b00001000; //-B_delay_ms(100);PORTD = 0b00001001; //A -B_delay_ms(100);PORTD = 0b00000001; //A_delay_ms(100);

author: mrflibble
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2014, 02:33:41 pm
content: Quote from: Eoiser on February 18, 2014, 01:21:20 pmYou can even microstep a 4 wire stepper. And yes, you can also half step it. Half-stepping does mean a reduction in torque, but that doesn't always have to be a problem.

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2014, 02:48:35 pm
content: Yes, you can. Important thing is that you need a proper output stage, which is double H-bridge - one per coil - with appropriate drive gate drive. Obviously you can microstep them too, but you need additional current sensing for that.
Half voltage shown by analog oscilloscope using CH1 and inverted CH2 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: j57H8I4
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2017, 12:54:21 am
content: Why when I use my probe with its own ground cable my analog oscilloscope shows the right voltage, instead when I use CH1 probe with inverted CH2 probe my analog oscilloscope shows half voltage value?

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2017, 02:29:46 am
content: Both channels set to same V / cm ?If you feed a square wave into both channels, one inverted, you will get 2Xresulting waveform. Both probes same attenuation, 1X or 10X.Regards, Dana.
Half Wave Rectifier: Diode, Capacitor, and Resistor HELP PLEASE BASIC SOLVE - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: taktics
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 06, 2014, 03:37:01 am
content: Hi everyone, this is my first post here. I couldn't find anything online or through youtube lectures so I am turning to you guys. Please help me.I am learning about Diodes and Rectifiers. In the attachment is the circuit I had to build and take measurements. I took measurements but theoretically I don't know how to solve on paper and pen. What I think is the answer doesn't seem anywhere near what was measured.so my main questions is how do I theoretically get Vdc with R only?How do I solve to get Vdc with Cap only?and How do I solve to get the Voltage Ripple?and is it different if I am solving for full wave rectifier? (next circuits are full wave)Please let me know if you have any questions.. I have attached the schematic and data table I need to fill out.EDIT: UNABLE TO ATTACHED DUE TO FILE SIZE

author: Phaedrus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2014, 04:12:27 am
content: The book doesn't state if the 6.3V is RMS or pk-pk; but since it says 120V I'll assume RMS. Which means the peak to peak voltage at the anode of your diode is 6.3*1.44 = 9.07V. Then subtract your diode's voltage drop, usually 0.6V. So the cathode of your diode is at 8.47V--peak! That's the peak value of a half-sin wave. Then simply use the techniques outlined here:http://www.radio-electronics.com/info/circuits/diode-rectifier/rectifier-filtering-smoothing-capacitor-circuits.phpto calculate the output voltage and ripple, keeping in mind the additional complication of yours only being a half wave circuit.I leave the numerical answer as an exercise for the student.

author: taktics
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 06, 2014, 05:48:27 am
content: so Vdc with R only.... should it be 8.47 V? since thats the 9.07 minus the voltage drop of the diode. originally I thought Vdc with R only was 6.3 - drop at diode. but either way my measurements were in the 2-3 V area when i did it physically. Maybe I did it wrong?I see the Vdc with cap only is pretty close to the 8.47 v which seems right. Im starting to think my physical measurements is wrong across the resistor.

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2014, 12:21:33 pm
content: It might help if you sketch the waveform(s) that you expect to see at the cathode of the diode. Then take into consideration that your measuring instrument is likely to be reading the time-averaged value.

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2014, 01:15:13 pm
content: Quote from: Phaedrus on October 06, 2014, 04:12:27 amActually,you are thinking of peak voltage,not peak to peak.As the half cycles are not present at the same time,peak to peak is normally only used for convenience when looking at the waveform with a 'scope,or in determining the voltage swing capabilties of a circuit (amplifier,ADC).Peak is root 2 times RMS ----approx.1.414x 6.3 in this case.
Half wave uncontrolled rectifier, how to integrate i(wt) to get average current? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: humvivz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2013, 01:42:09 pm
content: i(wt)= 0.095sin(wt-0.361)+0.331e^(-wt/0.377)Iavg= (1/2?)? i(wt) d(wt), from wt= 0 to 3.5i have no idea to solve the equation. Please help. Thanks.

author: Christe4nM
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 25, 2013, 02:08:09 pm
content: Don't take offence please, but is this a homework question?Little hint for solving: your function is basically a combination of two functions sin(t) and e^(t). Integrate each separately, then add the results.Or in math terms: integral(u(t)) and u(t) = f(t) + g(t) then integral(u(t)) = integral(f(t)) + integral(g(t))

author: Ziltoid
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2013, 02:41:36 pm
content: or feed it to Wolfram alpha.http://www.wolframalpha.com
Hall effect relay questions. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Marck
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2020, 07:03:54 am
content: I just bought a new car and we live out of town. I want to put extra lights on the car and the law requires you to make sure they only operate when you have high beam on. The next piece of this is that the car uses can bus to controll the lights and the car has automatic switching of high beam.Toyota sell a loom that you can use to control extra lighting for about $200. And its quite a bit of messing around to install having to remove most of the plastics on the dash and bring cables into the cabin to install it all.The idea i am kicking around in my head is to use a Hall effect sensor clamped to the loom for the headlights to switch a relay to allow power supply to the additional light.I have done a little digging on Rs components and all the relays have a sense current of mA. I would want this up around 5-10 amps.So my questions for today are am i just better off paying the money for the factory loom or has my idea got a chance of working? Its a fairly hot vibration filled dirty environment in an engine bay so the reliability of this idea dose worry me. I know that with dc clamp meters that you sometimes have to demagnetise them to keep them working is this a consideration in this application of hall effect?And if it will work will i find an affordable off the shelf product or is it something that would have to be made from scratch.As i type i feel like i am trying to find a complex answer to a simple problem.ThanksM

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2020, 09:11:55 am
content: A hall sensor wont work round the whole loom if there is a ground return in the loom, or if the low beam is a similar wattage to the high beam. You'd have to split out the individual high-beam wire from the controller to the bulb assembly (if its not integrated) and either sense current through it or voltage on it. You'll also need to know the light technology if you want to tap into the wire safely.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2020, 09:20:58 am
content: There will be a relay for the high beams, no electronics will be directly switching that circuit, find it, piggyback the relay coil wires to your own relay, and have that switch your lights.
Hall effect sensor for measuring AC mains current ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: lordvader88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 02:15:38 am
content: I have some Hall effect sensors from ebay but supposedly thesehttps://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdfI've never done anything with them before, how good of a AC mains current meter can be made, to be used like a kill-a-watt meter

author: pyroesp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 05:55:15 am
content: Those look like they're just open collector switches. This will not give you an analog VDC output proportional to the magnetic field.It's either GND or floating.From the datasheet :Quote

author: DeanCording
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2018, 07:46:40 am
content: The Schmitt trigger driving the output transistor is a pretty good indicator that this will be an on/off type of device.
Hall effect specs, best option for a magnet 10 millimeters away - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: buck converter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2017, 01:42:48 am
content: the magnets I am using:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4FSVI0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A282R8VORGGS6UI like the DRV5000 series sensors for its low-power capabilities. For my project, there would be 2 of these cute magnets on rotating wheel next to each other with opposite poles facing a sensor. Using single latching hall sensor and a micro-controller, i could determine speed and direction after a few rotations. There are a few options for this sensor with varying sensitivityQuotehttp://www.ti.com/lit/wp/slyy058a/slyy058a.pdfif I do not want the sensor to trigger until it is within 5-8mm, which sensor should I use? Or am I on the wrong track?

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2017, 02:59:12 am
content: http://ams.com/eng/Products/Magnetic-Position-Sensors
Halogen-Free Flux Vs Halogen Flux - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 2X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2024, 11:41:30 pm
content: Hello,I am using the SMD291 (Resin flux) and the NC551-10CC flux. I found the SMD491 flux which is ROL0 (Rosin) flux like the NC551-10CC, but the SMD491 flux is Halogen-Free Flux. Do you know what that means in practice and if the below that I read on the google is right. Also, could anyone expalin (or tell me where I can read about it) me what is/means the "smaller profile process window". Also, as I saw the SMD491 flux and the NC551-10CC flux have the same characteristics except from Halogen.https://www.google.com/search?q=why+halogen-free+flux&sca_esv=6d0155d54e7c5b71&sxsrf=ADLYWIKlKGhzVGRsjBJJRxDNi8OMzfSluQ%3A1732921741473&ei=jUlKZ5HGHL6Rxc8P9_PUyQc&ved=0ahUKEwjRwMvG1IKKAxW-SPEDHfc5NXkQ4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=why+halogen-free+flux&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiFXdoeSBoYWxvZ2VuLWZyZWUgZmx1eEiLElCXC1jzD3ABeAGQAQCYAX6gAcsDqgEDMC40uAEDyAEA-AEBmAIEoALpAsICChAAGLADGNYEGEfCAggQABgTGAcYHsICCRAAGIAEGBMYDcICCBAAGBMYDRgewgIMEAAYExgFGAoYDRgewgIIEAAYgAQYogTCAgUQABjvBcICBhAAGAcYHpgDAIgGAZAGCJIHAzEuM6AHoQw&sclient=gws-wiz-serp
Ham Radio extension speaker wiring - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Flump
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 11:40:35 am
content: I have a nice computer desktop speakerit has its own amp in and runs off a mainspowersupply, it has a wire with a stereo3.5mm jack on the end and im using a3.5mm stereo or mono converter and it works great.I would like to be able to use the speaker on other radios tooat the same time, can i just splice into the lead and add anotherto it or would i need to add a diode inline to stop signal goingfrom one radio to another through the speaker leads ?

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 12:06:30 pm
content: ideally you want a mixer. If this is for CB and not "high end" audio you can knock something up with an opamp

author: Flump
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 12:15:04 pm
content: would this do Simon ?http://www.tradeofic.com/Circuit/11360-TWO_CHANNEL_AUDIO_MIXER.html

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 12:28:22 pm
content: yes that is your basic mixing configuration, you can add as many extra channels as you want (within reason i guess). I'm sure others will want to peper it with capacitors and other improvements but that is your starting point. The + input of the amp should have a smoothing capacitor on it really.