Glue wood to pcb - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gorlock
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 08, 2018, 09:16:07 pm
content: Hi Guys,I need to glue a piece of wood to a PCB. Like in the picture attached. Is there a proper adhesive to do this? What do you guys recommend?Thank you in advance!Best regards,RS

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2018, 09:18:41 pm
content: Well, since you don't give any idea how durable it must be, I'd use Anchor double backed tape. It is kind of like masking tape ,but double sided sticky. I use it all the time.

author: gorlock
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 08, 2018, 09:33:15 pm
content: Hi jpanhalt,Thank you for the quick reply. It has to be kind of resilient. First it will stay on a vertical position, and it will be blocking cartridges of entering the slot in the wrong way. So it will be bumped frequently.Thanks again.Regards,RS

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 08, 2018, 10:09:20 pm
content: By the looks of PCB, you could drill holes in unpoulated area and attach it with screws.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2018, 10:20:12 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on May 08, 2018, 10:09:20 pmWow, clever. What size holes should he drill?

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2018, 10:34:48 pm
content: If possible drill the PCB and use nuts recessed in the wood and through bolt it.For a permanent glued attachment, coat kiln-dried wood with lamintating epoxy, then, while at 'green' cure stage, sand face to roughen, wash then rinse with IPA to remove any amine blush, then glue to previosly roughhened PCB using epoxy. (Laminating epoxy mixed with glue powder is suitable.)However its probably adequate to seal the wood with shellac or lacquer then stick it to the PCB with 3M VHB tape.

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 09, 2018, 01:02:09 am
content: Quote from: jpanhalt on May 08, 2018, 10:20:12 pmSlightly larger than the diameter of the screw I would suspect.Please note:This is opinion only and not based on fact.I am not a professionally qualified screw hole estimator.

author: gorlock
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 09, 2018, 03:19:21 pm
content: Thank you all for the ideas. Will consider the options.All the best!Regards,RS

author: ehughes
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2018, 05:06:51 pm
content: I have used gorilla do to something very similar. You will tear the fiberglass weaving apart before that glue bond breaks.

author: frozenfrogz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2018, 05:41:04 pm
content: Hot snot all the way!

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 09, 2018, 05:42:28 pm
content: Quote from: frozenfrogz on May 09, 2018, 05:41:04 pmIf you don't care if it will fall away in a year.

author: frozenfrogz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2018, 05:48:07 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on May 09, 2018, 05:42:28 pmDepends a little on the type of glue stick. I am using some industrial grade stuff that did not let me down (yet). Only viable if you have a hot glue gun though.For permanent mounting (apart from drilling holes) the only other glue I would deem usable is two component epoxy. Of course gluing always requires properly cleaned and prepared surfaces.

author: gorlock
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 09, 2018, 06:01:58 pm
content: Quote from: ehughes on May 09, 2018, 05:06:51 pmWhat kind did you use? The Original, Superglue, The one for wood?Thanks.

author: ehughes
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2018, 01:53:54 pm
content: The original gorilla glue. Not the wood or super glue variants.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2018, 08:36:09 am
content: Quote+1. If you don't have a glue stick that sticks to FR4 and soldermask, yet, you need to keep looking. There are lots of things that are hard to stick with hot glue, but unfinished wood and soldermask do not fall into that category. Even if it fell off, it is easy to remove and redo. Just brush with alcohol.There is a huge difference between different brands of glue. I used some Stanley brand sticks that fell off of everything. I think they would be good for making molds, maybe.I have hot snotted several PCB's in lieu of making proper enclosures and standoffs for decades. One and done. The main point of failure I have come across in electronical things is when gluing certain plastics. There's a bit of an art to it, though. Clean surfaces and preheating where necessary. Many of us will use alcohol and hot air guns for other things in electronical work, anyway. And the hot snot for myriad things including tacking wires and mocking up prototypes. So it would be second nature to reach for the glue gun.By the looks of whatever OP is making, it might very well be in a junk bin, receiving upgrades or modification, or needing repairs before a good hot snotting initially falls.Fun fact: the screens on your smart phone are attached to the glass with hot snot.