What Brand of Batteries do You Use?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: gnuarm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 12:33:59 am
content: I used to be a big fan of Costco batteries. They perform well in reviews. I've used a couple of the large packs over the years. But more recently they seem to go bad in my devices, leaking and often ruining the device such as radio controlled wall clocks and multimeters. The last pack I bought actually leaked in the package before they got into a device.Costco would not pay for the damage (unlike Duracell) and wouldn't even refund the purchase price of the batteries. That and some other issues caused me to drop my membership.Now I use the low cost Sunshine brand I buy at Dollar Tree. I've used them from time to time and they have never leaked. What's in your gadget?

author: JohnnyMalaria
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 12:36:40 am
content: Rayovac (disposable), Tenergy (rechargeable)

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 12:50:29 am
content: Panasonic eneloops AAA and AA in pretty well everything that takes that form factor. Many are 5+ years and lots of recharge cycles and not one has leaked, even in clocks, remotes, etc.cheers,george.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 01:02:36 am
content: Eneloops or rewrapped eneloops. Ikea sells the LADDA and I have several of those.https://eneloop101.com/batteries/rewrapped-batteries/Never ever had Eneloop leak.I'm surprised Costco didn't take back the bad batteries. They usually take back everthing.

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 01:35:14 am
content: If I buy at other places I get Rayovac. If I get from Costco I get the Duracell.

author: ferdieCX
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 01:41:15 am
content: VARTA is the only one that I trust

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 01:55:03 am
content: I feel your pain with respect to the leakage problem and frankly that a couple of years ago had me punting alkaline batteries where ever possible. In this respect I'm trying out two alternatives.I'm making use of Lithium primary cells in the form of AA and AAA sizes. I'm using the lithium cells sold by the big battery manufactures along side their alkaline cells. So far no leakage and better performance.The other approach is to make use of rechargeable batteries. This I'm just getting started with and in that regard I have some AAA and AA cells from Harbor Freight. These are NiMH batteries, made in China, with HF supplying a cheap wall mount charger. I have no idea who the OEM is but they seem to be surprisingly good considering HF. This is working out well so far as the 1.2 Volts output doesn't seem to impact the devices I have them in. As a result I'm looking into buying some Enloops due to reputation and hopefully a better charger. (suggestions welcomed for chargers)A third approach, that hasn't gone far yet, is cell phone back up packs with 18650 cells in them and USB output ports. A couple of things have converged to make these a consideration. First; Ollies had or has a bunch of them dirt cheap which is always a plus. Second; they have built in charging circuitry so basically self contained units. Third; articles here in these forums and elsewhere highlight how they can be used with out too much trouble in DIY projects. Fourth; the same packs can be used for cell phone backup or even my ARM based laptop, if the need ever arrives. In any event these are useful anywhere a low power device easily hooked up to USB exists. This might lead to far more use of 18650 (or larger cells) if the results are positive Of course this doesn't do much for devices demanding AA or AAA format cells but if there is an auxiliary power input port I can see myself buying or making a pack for stuff that uses a 12 VDC imput.The other real driver towards lithium cells is the great results I'm seeing with respect to power tools. Lithium cells are a game changer here. I might be late to the Lithium era but it is hard to deny how well these batteries work with respect to older rechargeables. I just wish more manufactures would get on the band wagon and put the alkaline industry to rest. Alkaline batteries have caused me real cash and a lot of grief so if there are any instrument makers out there (HPAK, Fluke, Flir - whomever) you really need to discontinue the use of alkaline batteries. It is the 2020's we expect better out of high end electronics makers, don't wait for the Chinese to blow you out of the water.

author: Miti
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 02:11:32 am
content: +1 for Ikea LADDA. They are as good as Eneloop.

author: all_repair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 02:29:04 am
content: Check up lithium rechargeable, available in AA and AAA size. Give out 1.5V and recharge by 5V. Xiaomi subbrand zimi offers the cheapest AA Lithium rechargeable as of now.

author: Photoman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 02:39:22 am
content: For alkaline, the amazon house brand. Never had one leak yet (I know famous last words).Eneloop, EBL and the amazon basics for NiMh rechargeable's.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 02:56:36 am
content: Quote from: gnuarm on May 08, 2021, 12:33:59 amAll alkaline batteries leak. It's what they do. If you are worried about leaking batteries, don't use alkalines. If you use alkaline batteries, then sooner or later one will leak and ruin something. There is no safe brand, unless it is not "alkaline". Alkaline batteries have to leak, it is part of their chemistry. Either they have to leak or they have to explode. There is no third option. Since exploding is not considered consumer-friendly, leaking is what they will do.I liked the Sunbeam brand that Dollar Tree sold, they were good value and less likely to leak than others, but lately my local Dollar Tree has stopped stocking Sunbeam products of any description. Annoying.As many others will tell you, if you are worried about leaky batteries, then use rechargeable Eneloops or use lithium batteries.In case you are curious, alkaline batteries with "high power", "high energy", "super long life" or other marketing buzzwords are much more prone to leaking than plain, simple, inexpensive batteries. That's why the Sunbeam batteries are so good, they don't come encumbered with marketing buzzwords. They are just simple, ordinary batteries.

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 03:22:22 am
content: I switched to Panasonic. I buy bulk from DigiKey. Duracell and Energizer has both destroyed lots of stuff.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 03:59:39 am
content: Cheap zinc batteries from Dollar Stores are great for stuff that sits around and isn't critical.Eneloops for A and AA for anything high-use. Tenergy Centura for C and D sized.Energizer Lithium for critical stuff that needs to work, as well as TV remotes and such where you would like to not worry about them for years on end.EBC 9-volt lithium rechargeable for smoke detectors and 9-volt high usage applications.Duracell is banned as well as the Costco clones.

author: gnuarm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 04:11:08 am
content: At least Duracell will pay you for the damage if you report it. I got a $100 check from them for a radio controlled clock their batteries ruined.I found this comparison which talks about the Sunbeam batteries as well a e-circuit batteries from Dollar Tree.https://www.smartfamilymoney.com/best-aa-batteries/Looks like this report paid $1.00 for three Sunbeams vs. $1.00 for four e-circuit cells. The resulting cost per hour of use comes up the same in that case.

author: 1Ghz
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 04:50:15 am
content: Energizer Lithium for AAA and AA.Ultralife Lithium for 9V.And random alkalines for the EEVblog BM235.

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 04:57:37 am
content: Seems like the IKEA LADDA are going to be dicontinuedI just ordered some AAA , but AA are gone in DKWell back to ENELOOP again/Bingo

author: ResistorRob
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 04:58:12 am
content: From your question it sounds like you want a traditional battery and not a rechargeable. This is an area I think I have some good answers.I buy and flip old equipment on eBay. A lot of stuff has batteries left in them, so I have a pretty large data set to go from. I have also done a lot of research on this myself.Please stay away from Duracell. Even their Quantums leak. I mean I use them if it's something I will burn through quickly and they won't be in the device for long, because they have excellent capacity but terrible leak protection. Also stay away from Energizer, except for maybe their lithium ones? I don't know. I don't have experience with those ones in particular.Years back the Diehard home batteries NEVER leaked. I don't think they make these anymore.Sunshine batteries at Dollar Tree... yes I have used hundreds of these. No leaks but die very fast! Value-wise is it worth it? I got tired of the low remote battery warning on my TV every 5 weeks.So what is the Holy Grail of batteries? Rayovac Fusion! These are clones of the Duracell Quantums but won't leak all over the place if you leave them in your gear for 2 years. Price is cheaper too!I now almost use these exclusively and love them. Regular Rayovacs are fine, but these have incredible life. Tip: Buy them at Lowe's or Walmart (no C, D, or 9V at Walmart). Why? Because unbelievably people have created counterfeits of these and if you buy from Amazon or other online sellers you have a pretty good chance of getting the knock-offs.If you want to experiment Harbor Freight has new batteries called Thunderbolt Edge which are on par with Duracell and only cost $8 for 18 of them. I ran a capacity test in my home lab and are excellent batteries as far as capacity goes, but who knows about leaking? Probably good to stick in kids toys, gifts, and stuff you don't care about.Anyway, I strongly suggest going with the Rayovac Fusions (bought locally). I have a drawer in my toolbox stuffed full of them in every size and is my go-to for almost everything. There are exceptions like in my smoke detectors I run Kidde 10 year 9volts.Don't forget to come back in 3 years and thank me when you are in battery nirvana!Edit: I just looked on Amazon at the Energizer Lithium batteries. Wow! Tons of people complaining about dead batteries, leaking, and the like. I'm going to guess these are probably counterfeits. I ordered some other brands locally and on Amazon and cut them apart and tested them for voltage, capacity, and peak current output. And have confirmed counterfeits for Duracell and the Rayovac Fusions. I think this is a rampant problem nobody is talking about. I thought about making a YouTube video about it, but didn't want to come under wrath from Amazon. They have lots of money and lots of lawyers!

author: Robert Smith Eco Warrior
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 08:09:35 am
content: Amazon Basics for AA and AAA but our old Maplin ones are still going on and on.C and D sizes are a bit of a random heap.Varta for car and tractor batteries.Trojan T1275 for our off grid batteries.

author: ROMUZ
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 09:59:32 am
content: Many years I use Energizer Lithium AAA for my weather station (including outdoor sensor) and different meters. No issues at all, even in very cold winter.Be aware that lithium cell has higher initial voltage than ordinary alkaline cell (1.85V vs 1.6V). Possible it may cause issues with over voltage protection.

author: AVGresponding
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 10:21:46 am
content: I don't use primary cells any more; they're all crap nowadays.Rechargeable technology is so good now it's largely pointless to use anything else.I use mostly Turnigy NiMH and NiZn. These consistently exceed their stated capacities and are amazing value. You can get them from HobbyKing. I also have some Vapex NiMH, they're pretty good, but under the stated capacity and more expensive.I've been using a Znter Li-ion PP3 in my Fluke 87V, they're quite pricey, but very effective.Most modern items that use AA and AAA cells seem to be designed to accept the lower voltage you get from NiMH, and there's NiZn and Li-ion AA/AAA pattern cells for any that won't. So far I've not found a handheld DMM or IR remote that won't work with the 1.2V nominal chemistries, though I filled my Fluke 289 with the 1.6V NiZn to see how it does, and it likes them just fine.One recent bizarre experience was when I filled my recently acquired Agilent U1401B with Turnigy NiMH LSD AAs, eight of them! They are slightly larger in diameter than the alkalines that came in it, by about 0.4mm or so, and when you try to put the last cell in, it forces another one to pop out! Tried my Vapex cells with the same result, so ended up juggling popping out cells until I could force them all in.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2021, 12:43:40 pm
content: I have been taking notes with several A-brand alkalines sold in the US retail and, in my experience over the span of 15 years, I can't guarantee that a single brand will not leak - AA and AAA being the absolut worst offenders (C, D and 9V don't leak as often)I can guarantee the quality eroded with Duracell, then Energizer and lately Ray-o-vac.I never had issues with Sunbean, Insignia (Best Buy brand) and Tianqiu (came with several of my kids' toys), but I never had used them widely.I currently use Energizer Lithium non-rechargeable for the expensive equipment and just got a set of Panasonic Industrial from Digi-key to try.Other posts I did over the years:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/leaking-aa-and-aaa-batteries/msg2060989/#msg2060989https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-1296-alkaline-battery-leakage-testing-2-electric-boogaloo/msg2987604/#msg2987604https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/disaster!/msg3449330/#msg3449330

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2021, 11:51:47 pm
content: For those that have not had an alkaline leak yet, you might want to buy a lottery ticket if you are that lucky. years ago I literally implemented a plan where I replaced all of the alkalines in my house, with brand new batteries, to try to avoid leaks. I did this on my birthday and frankly I still ended up with ruined equipment. This was in indoor equipment, a thermostat and outdoor equipment, flashlights kept in the truck. Brand didn't seem to manner.This is what has resulted in me trying to eliminate every alkaline that I control. It is just disgusting to have to buy a new flashlight and it is far too much trouble to chase down a battery manufacture for a warranty replacement. By the way in a few cases i managed to clean up contacts and get reliable operation again but I really shouldn't have to do that, after all this is the 2020's, not the 1950's. This is why I find it frustrating that instrumentation makers are not more innovative here.It is sad that your local auto mechanic can buy from Snap-on a flashlight that can sit on a qi recharge mat and always be ready to use. Why Fluke or Agilent (or whatever they are calling themselves today), can't be more progressive, with a similar approach, is beyond me. I just want a trouble free solution that can work with a rational battery replacement plan. Like I said above we will likely see this from a Chinese manufacture if somebody doesn't get on board soon.

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 10, 2021, 12:02:11 am
content: Panasonic. I buy from Mouser. Panasonic CR2032 cells for example cost $.281 in 10+, $.217 in 100+.Too much fake crap on Amazon, and their house brand is usually half dead on arrival already, with voltages all over.

author: all_repair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2021, 01:14:26 am
content: Quote from: AVGresponding on May 08, 2021, 10:21:46 amBe careful with some DMMs. Took me a while to chase down the inaccuracy of my E14 inhouse clamp meter was due to the voltage of the rechargable 9V cell (so dont get the 8.4V type). There was also no "weak battery" warning but my AAENG and alike meters were giving high resistance measurement when I was using the NiMH AA and AAA, I have since changed to rechargeable Lithium.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2021, 01:52:50 am
content: Quote from: all_repair on May 10, 2021, 01:14:26 amEither it gives a "low battery" warning or it gives an accurate reading. If it does neither it is a crap meter and should not be trusted.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2021, 04:19:26 am
content: I have been using Eneloops for rechargeable and ACDelco for alkaline cells with a mix of other non-Chinese brands for coin cells. I try to avoid Duracell and Energizer leaky trash as much as possible.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2021, 09:23:25 am
content: Quote from: IanB on May 10, 2021, 01:52:50 amPrecisely. Sooner or later even Alkalines and Lithiums will fall into this danger zone if the meter does not inform the user.It's been quite some time since I saw a meter with a lo-bat indicator that didn't work - apart from some free meters from Harbor Freight (the M830B clones)

author: graybeard
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2022, 06:30:51 am
content: I used to buy Rayovac at the Homeless Despot, but in the last few years I have had many bad batches. These were in my box of unused batteries in my garage.

author: AVGresponding
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2022, 06:17:56 pm
content: Quote from: IanB on May 10, 2021, 01:52:50 amThe only downside I've found to using the Znter Li-Ion PP3 is that it puts out 9V until it dies, so you don't get a low battery warning.As for low battery warnings with AA/AAA Ni-MH/Ni-Zn, I get ample warning from all my meters. I don't think I've ever owned a meter that doesn't have a low battery warning, even some really cheap ones

author: eplpwr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2022, 07:36:10 pm
content: Primary cells: Energizer Lithium AA/AAA/PP3. No alkalines in anything, ever, after Duracell puke in expensive handheld meter.Rechargeable: Eneloops for AA/AAA,EnerMaxPowerex PP3 230mAh 9.6V (8 x 1.2V nom), needs compatible charger.Special for DIY stuff: SAFT LS14500 (AA size), 3.6V 2300mAh; RS Components has "PP3" SAFT battery w/ 3x3.6V also.Edit: Corrected PP3 NiMH 9.6V battery brand

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2022, 02:53:34 am
content: Varta and Panasonic both in alkaline and NiMH flavours, the odd Energizer AA primary lithium.Still considering the Li-ion substitute options haven't tried any so far.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 04:47:04 am
content: 1.5 volt lithium batteries would be nice but they are awfully expensive.

author: gnuarm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 06:33:28 am
content: Quote from: AVGresponding on January 08, 2022, 06:17:56 pmI used to use NiMH in a hand held GPS device. One problem was they would flag the low battery warning well short of actually being low on power. In a device designed for 1.5V batteries, 1.2V devices don't always work so well. Seems like the Li-ion cells have the reverse problem.I haven't dug into the older messages, but does the Znter device have an internal regulator? That could be problematic unless they include a circuit to detect when the cell is getting low and drop the output voltage a bit to trigger the low battery warning.I recall a gadget that clipped onto AA cells to boost the output voltage as the cell drains and utilize that last 10 or 20% that is in a cells below the warning/cutoff voltage. I saw lots of discussions about it but never saw one in the wild.

author: gnuarm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 06:35:20 am
content: I use Sunshine brand from the dollar store. They are very inexpensive and I've never had one leak. All the reviews I've seen show them as having just as much capacity as the best of the brands tested.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 11:03:49 am
content: Rechargeable: Lidl 'Tronic Energy eco' (when they have them in).

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 11:18:16 am
content: Quote from: Gyro on January 10, 2022, 11:03:49 amFor those who don't know: LIDL "Tronic" are NiMH rechargeables. I've got quite a few of them.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 11:23:04 am
content: Yes, very cheap but reliable and low self-discharge (come pre-charged).

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 12:12:31 pm
content: Just looked at the batteries in a small TV set that is rarely used, they are branded Toys-R-us. Probably should replace them, and have some cheap ones top put in place of them, though they do not leak yet. Just changed a clock battery with a Varta one.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 06:42:49 pm
content: Quote from: gnuarm on January 10, 2022, 06:33:28 amMy Garmin has a configuration setting to select the type of battery installed so that the low battery warning works properly.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 07:15:00 pm
content: Quote from: David Hess on January 10, 2022, 06:42:49 pmIs that the setting that the Batteroo Brothers failed to set when they were searching for the device with the highest possible battery warning voltage?

author: bicycleguy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 07:30:48 pm
content: Have been using NiMH for years now. Started with 16 AA NOMEM branded cells and a simple charger maybe 15 years ago. The last of the NOMEMs failed to keep a charge last year. None leaked. About 5 years ago switched to Energizer Recharge. These have incredible shelf life and come with a full charge unlike other NiMH.Have never had a AA or AAA NiMH leak.Would highly recommend an Opus BT-C700 charger. It is like four individual chargers in one. Every other Sunday I charge 3 AAA @ 200mA and 1 AA @ 400mA at the same time for dog walking flashlights. When my EEBlog 121GW multi-meter gets down to 5V charge 4 AAA. Actually never had a battery fail except a 15 year old NOMEM since I got the charger.

author: AVGresponding
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 08:55:14 pm
content: Quote from: gnuarm on January 10, 2022, 06:33:28 amYes, the Li-ion is a single cell in the Znter afaik; it uses a boost regulator and so gives the nominal 9V from full charge to shut-off. I haven't checked to see how bad the switching noise may or may not be, but I haven't noticed any odd readings from my 87V.Ni-Zn has a nominal cell voltage of 1.6V, is about 1.85-1.9V open circuit on a freshly charged cell in practice. Fluke 289 seems perfectly happy with them, been using them in it for a year or so now.

author: Fuzzy Star
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 09:46:41 pm
content: 9V Znter teardown:https://youtu.be/dR_RusM99no

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 11:50:40 pm
content: Quote from: AVGresponding on January 10, 2022, 08:55:14 pmI have a bunch of NiZn cells that bought on clearance to investigate, but I find their self-discharge rate is too high to make them useful for me. Most items I use batteries in need to keep working for months or years between battery replacement or recharge. If the battery becomes empty after a few months due to self-discharge it means I can't rely on the equipment I install them in. It's the same drawback as old technology NiMH cells.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2025, 03:13:31 pm
content: Anyone use EBL brand 6F22 8.4V Lithium rechargeables ? They claim 600mAh, I've never checked mine, I haven't recharged them that often in +3yrs. I use them in my Byrmen DMM, they last pretty long if not on all day. I wanted to get some more, but larger ones. But it seems there's not many, and I don't want to use ones with super annoying USB connectors.

author: metrologist
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2025, 04:37:28 pm
content: Larger ones?I have a pack of the EBL 9V but also have not measured capacity. You can buy direct from the mfg or they are all around retail outlets otherwise.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2025, 08:46:45 pm
content: Quote from: MathWizard on September 16, 2025, 03:13:31 pmYes, they're great. I've never measured the capacity, but the internal resistance is low and they work a long time in my smoke detectors, DMMs and just about everything else. EBL makes some very similar looking ones that are 7-cell NiMH so don't get fooled, although those are good as well for things that are extra sensitive to low voltage. They have a lot less capacity but remain above 8V for most of it.

author: Cyclotron
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 16, 2025, 09:06:02 pm
content: I recommend “project farm” on YouTube for at least an opinion on reviews. I use lithium single use sells and eneloopes. I’m not sure if the lithiums were recommended by project farm or Dave. But no more alkaline leaks!These POWEROWLfor single use and they were recommended in this video from Project Farm..I do remember that I had something around that didn't like them though.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2025, 12:17:40 am
content: Ok good I ordered some more Li ones on amazon. Once and a while I see rechargable 9V alkaline Energizer brand ones in real stores, but to my surprise they are only rated 200mAh iirc. I'm not used to battery lifespans, but that's shorter than my "320"mAh MP3 player.So I'm waiting to see big brand name rechargable lithium 6F22 batteries, or something else that that fits a DMM, and is more like 1Ah

author: Rubo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2025, 02:43:40 am
content: I have switched to EBL lithiums pretty much exclusively (unless they don't make a particular type) for both primary and rechargeable.If i'm in a pinch and in the middle of nowhere, i'll buy whatever is available, but will changle back to EBL as soon as possible.

author: rteodor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2025, 03:44:32 am
content: Quote from: AVGresponding on January 10, 2022, 08:55:14 pmI changed from Varta to some of these rechargeable Li-ion in a wall clock with DCF77 receiver. Some other brand, Beston from Reichelt. Previously I could see the DCF77 'sync' signal almost every time I checked the clock. With the Li-ions two weeks later I have not seen the 'sync' signal at least once.

author: Cyclotron
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 17, 2025, 03:56:09 am
content: Quote from: rteodor on September 17, 2025, 03:44:32 amIn my post I mentioned that i recalled some things didn't behave properly. Your post reminded me. My wife dug out a little lion flash light that one of my sons had as a child. It would light up and roar when you squeeze the tail. It has been sitting for years with alkaline batteries so there was a bit of cleaning and repair to do. She wanted to keep batteries in it so I put some of the lithium single use cells in it. The roar was way way wrong. It sounded horrible.The lithium cells are 1.8vdc new/fresh and I think that slightly higher voltage may mess with some circuits that weren't designed to see anything above 1.5vdc.In your case, I can think of two possibilities. The high voltage is keeping the clock's oscillator from sync'ing as they are too far apart or the reception is not working because of a similar misalignment due to the higher voltage.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2025, 06:11:04 am
content: So I shouldn't be putting away Li-x batteries in a high charge state, is that right ? Like for instance my HP Prime or DualShock4 playstation controller. I hardly use either very often, and I've been putting them away, mostly charged up.

author: AVGresponding
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2025, 06:33:31 am
content: Quote from: rteodor on September 17, 2025, 03:44:32 amI've a few days off work, I'll have a look at it, and at the other brand I have, which icr the name of, but I know doesn't last as long.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2025, 09:48:36 am
content: In a 18650 2600mAh Li battery datasheet, I think it say Imax continuous is 2.5A, and Ipeak is 5A. But they also say Rinternal w/ the BMS included, is =<60mR. But if you work out the R with the above and 3.6V, you get 1.44R and 0.72R . So do people just use a piece-meal model ?

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2025, 02:21:02 pm
content: Quote from: MathWizard on September 18, 2025, 09:48:36 amThat would be the short circuit current the way you are figuring it. The ratings are not based on a short circuit and the short circuit current would be indeed be much higher but it would be destructive.