Ever been so mad at a project you wanted to just smash it into the concrete? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Conrad Hoffman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2023, 03:04:29 am
content: I used to be good at fixing things. I'm reasonably sure of this because sometimes people even paid me and were usually happy with the work. Lately I can't seem to fix anything successfully. Right now I'm working on my Kodak 4400 Carousel projector. It had ceramic pieces falling out of the fan vent so I figured it needed an inspection to see what was going on. I have three service manuals and they basically say "remove the six screws and take off the bottom cover." Right. I can't get the front (handle) edge of the cover to budge. It's shifted slightly, but feels like it's screwed or glued. If I pull any harder it's going to break. So now I'm stuck. I can't get it apart and I can't get it back together because it doesn't line up quite right and refuses to move. This is at least my third session with it and I had to put it down and just walk away because it would have been shards and pieces if I kept at it. I did figure out what the ceramic bits were. Peering inside, there's a large white power resistor. The ceramic coating is flaking off the windings, probably nothing to really worry about. It's just old. Not a clue how to get it back together. :'(

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2023, 03:52:55 am
content: Either there are hidden screws or tabs holding the case together, or there is another piece that must be removed first to allow it to move. Hiding screws underneath labels or rubber feet is very common. Don't these projectors have a lamp module that slides out before it can be further disassembled?

author: boB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2023, 04:01:16 am
content: Yes, I certainly feel this way some times.Looks for a video maybe ? There sure area a lot of fixit videos out there these days.It has been a long time but I have thrown things before.boB

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2023, 07:59:38 am
content: Good cases for anger and nerve management are unsupported DIY toner and ink fillings.You just must keep your cool or the stuff is all over the place, and in case of ink it'll definitely be over you.With toner then you can't even sigh freely.

author: bookaboo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2023, 08:06:12 am
content: One of the things I love about having chosen electronic design as a career path is the never ending source of opportunities to work on personal growth and mindset. I'm eternally grateful when things go wrong, at least eventually.https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poems/46473/if---

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2023, 09:19:37 am
content: No.

author: Conrad Hoffman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2023, 01:17:41 pm
content: Oddly, I can't find a single photo or video of the later model "new look" projectors with the case open. I had the thought there might be a couple hidden screws under the front panel, so I took that off this morning. Nothing. It was still useful because it showed what are probably locking areas between the case halves. It might also let the parts shift more, but that will have to wait until my next session. Someday I'll be a better man, maybe, but that day probably isn't today. (I did remove the lamp assembly, remote, doors, knob and the Ty-Rap holding the power cord.)

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2023, 03:36:12 pm
content: Yes.And in every case Windows 10 was involved.

author: Sal Ammoniac
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2023, 04:55:35 pm
content: I had a combo printer/scanner/FAX machine that used inkjet cartridges. I wouldn't use it often, and the ink would dry out. Since I have another, more capable, printer, most of the time I'd use this thing to scan documents to PDF files or (even more rarely) to fax a document. Neither of these two operations require the use of ink, but the damn UI on this printer literally won't let you do anything if the ink cartridge is either empty or dried out.One day I had to urgently scan a document and email it to a family member in a different state, and, of course, the ink cartridge had dried out and the damn thing flat out refused to let me scan the document to a PDF file. My home office is on the third story of my house. After engaging in a battle of wills with this beast for twenty minutes, it finally went flying out the window out onto the concrete driveway three stories below. That was very satisfying. Note to self: never buy another Brother product.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2023, 07:27:15 pm
content: Quote from: rdl on May 23, 2023, 03:36:12 pmClearly, you're not using W11

author: Stray Electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 12:06:07 am
content: Short answer, Yes! And I did smash a lot of stuff onto the ground! I always got agreat dealof satisfaction out of smashing it too. But there were a few times that I regretted smashing it. Not always but occasionally I couldn't replace the item.

author: Conrad Hoffman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 12:10:41 am
content: After carefully removing the clear face of the control panel, trapped between the case halves, it was possible to get the case apart. I don't know if it could be managed without removing that, but the service manual says nothing about it. The source of the ceramic pieces falling out is now obvious. The parts list calls it out as "Resistor, dropping" but unlike all the others, no value or wattage is given. No problem there as it's labeled and measures about 3 ohms. Shouldn't be a problem to replace it. I'm a bit calmer now!

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 03:56:53 am
content: Quote from: Sal Ammoniac on May 23, 2023, 04:55:35 pmBrother printers for laser, Epson for inkjet.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 04:15:57 am
content: after the 100th attempt, the miller welder showed error code #5, but responded to controls, after a burned smell. Now its back to not responding to controls but I know where the problem might be.I think its been almost 2 years now. The only thing that keeps it in one piece is the high voltage circuit boardsIf only that high voltage was not there.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 06:08:56 am
content: Sounds like you need... A Widlar-izer!https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/the-widlar-izer!/

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 07:27:05 am
content: JVC Cassette Player CQ-1K Belt Changethere is an idiots guide to the above, onlineso in theory it is an easy fix. Some tangle of wires to manage otherwise what can go wrong?the belt is fitted over the large pulley wheel by flexing a plastic gear - sussed that eventually. but Fate intervened as I put the case back on as I confused the loose plastic dc power insulator for an imagined headphone insulator

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 08:01:00 am
content: Not a project, but something at my work many years ago.At the TV transmitter site I worked at, we had a "Flying Spot Scanner", which was used when needed to display the station test pattern or apology for lost programme, or whatever. (we had a box of BW slides).This thing was full of tubes, & was used every day, so one of the weekly "routine tests" was to measure selected parameters of the device, switchable on the front of the devices.To this end, we had a dedicated meter in a small metal enclosure with a lead terminated in a 1/4" jack plug, which plugged into socket on the FFS.The plug wasn't just a bakelite one , but was made from moulded rubber, which had perished, allowing access to the inside connections.It had received a "bodge repair".It had another problem, in that the meter would sometimes stick, but this could be overcome by unplugging then immediately re-inserting the plug.Being sticky, the needle didn't drop back to zero, & the "nudge" freed it to go to the correct reading.The meter was particularly troublesome this time, & although I got it to work several times with this procedure, it eventually refused "hard" when I was trying to read the HT supply.As I fiddled with the plug, the "bodge" repair failed and I got a nice HT "belt".In a rage, I threw the thing across the room, where it ended up hitting the bottom of a rack!--OOOPS!Somewhat abashed, I took it to the workshop & made an elaborate repair, removing any chance of touching the "hot bits".Expecting the worst, I plugged it in to find it now worked perfectly, with not the slightest sign of sticking.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 08:35:00 am
content: On this topic, yes many times however now quite picky what I take on.Although the one thing that always drove me is, if a man made it then a man can fix it < which has served me well over several decades. Yet one needs do preliminary investigations to then walk away if not in the right frame of mind to tackle a new venture and chew your cud for a good while until in the right mindset arrives/returns.The biggest help is a PC at the bench so to ask Mr Google.......

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 11:41:58 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on May 24, 2023, 04:15:57 amWhat's the model number? I used to work in the welder repair game, I might be able to rustle up a service manual if you need it.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 11:43:31 am
content: Quote from: vk6zgo on May 24, 2023, 08:01:00 amPercussive maintenance really is the best thing sometimes.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 05:09:11 pm
content: Dynasty 200dx I have a useless service manual I need like component level lol, I replaced maybe 50 parts on it bc of various burns n stuff. Milled and glue charred pcb too. It’s why man invented the hammer like 2001 space odesseyStuck with overtrmp error 5 . I replaced the big caps that were bulging a little (measure fine on lcr) and it booted once where I can control the panel. The thermistor readings are fine with dmm . Would like to test em with a mugger to earth though

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2023, 11:12:40 pm
content: TO give better details1) -5 and a stuck voltage/current value alternate on the front panel display (I assume this means error code #5, temperature error)1a)the sensors measure OK on a DMM2) the unit makes a buzzing noise that coincides with the display (the pitch of the film can inductor on the main board PCB whine changes when it shows -5 and when it shows the voltage/current value, so it alternates between say a 40 and 50 hz bzzzt3) the unit had most of its semiconductors replaced, I suspect its the inverter controller card (including big IGBT and the rectifier). This one has alot of MOSFET cascodes or something, I had to repair burn damage here4) I repaired other damage to the inverter power supply on main board (some how I think a small ceramic cap was causing a flyback diode to explode on a 20V rail?)5) repaired damage to MCU board (tvs diode)6) found one loose connector on the output7) Replaced the main electrolytic caps (1400uF monster caps). They were swollen on top, but after I removed them, very painfully, I measured them OK at 100, 120Hz and 1KHz on DE-50007a) This is the last repair I did, last night. When I turned it on after the repair, it displayed error code and faintly smelled of burned semiconductors. I turned it off and turned it back on, and displayed the code but when I hit a button it actually responded and let me adjust the current, and all the switches worked and gave me front panel feedback. When I turned it off and waited and turned it back on, it was back to the -5 error. I think I am playing whack a mole with the inverter card.I also I think I checked everything else, replaced some power resistors, and attempted to run it with a disconnected solenoid, fan, thermistor, etc. It appears its the thermistor on the rectifier that its complaining about, but when I measure that with a DMM on the input to the MCU board, it reads OK.I think I am playing whack a mole with the fucking cascode on the inverter control board, that had severe damage, so I bought a replacement PCB for this today. Last gamble? There is like 20 4pin mosfets there (HV), and a bunch of op-amps and 74 series shit, that I all replaced multiple times, but I had it go up a few times in the last year (I think its only been a little over a year, not two years, its a blur) where my procedure is to replace all the fets before trying again. The only thing I noticed is that there is one 74 series gate running at 100F (the others are at 80), and its near the fets. I had the mill the PCB out near the fets and redo it with rivets and epoxy. I suspect there is something more going on here. I just wanna get rid of this compromised board.I also have it running through a variac set to like 105V (20A variac) that is turned on, then the welder is turned on, so I don';t need to deal with a 800V rail.But I also though this over a little, you know.. the board replacement sucks but its a tool that has high voltage in it and I need to hold it in my hands, its not the worst idea in the world to not use dodgy PCB (its like a fiberglass bumper repair).

author: RJSV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2023, 02:29:56 am
content: Think of this self-control aspect, even though I'm sure you don't need a lecture.Adults can maybe mitigate the aspects of losing control, for couple seconds,...butI've watched an attentive MOM go ballistic on similar issues, when an upset kid tried pulling up nearly every (expensive) front yard decorative bush."Taking out your frustrations, on another living thing...",but similar response, when kid was smashing broken toy, MOM pointing out that toys were a loving gift and so should be left out of some grief frenzy.......(Unless it's some TV toss drama show-off)

author: thermistor-guy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2023, 05:15:51 am
content: Quote from: Conrad Hoffman on May 23, 2023, 03:04:29 amNo, but the closest I've been: glaring at an Epson inkjet printer that refused to scan to a remote PC, because one ink cartridge was empty.And sitting nearby, was my neatly arranged storage tub of hammers and hand axes ...

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2023, 09:44:37 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on May 24, 2023, 05:09:11 pmI have this manual on my NAS, it might be what you have already though? Once I remember the Miller partner portal login (it's been 10 years...) I'll see if I can find more.https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AbmCZZFmvnaZQ04w5Bh-TJpSg_JAkeDf?usp=sharing

author: mendip_discovery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2023, 04:58:29 pm
content: I have a old ametek joffra in the lab, it had a busted blade on the fan so I thought. Easy just undo the big screws that hold the frame on, but it doesnt budge and I dare not hit it with a hammer as it does work at the moment and it may break more trying to repair it. I put it back together ready for a day when I am in a better mood.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2023, 12:58:52 pm
content: Quote from: TERRA Operative on May 25, 2023, 09:44:37 amyeah I got that one for a long time, the failure I have is not there.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2023, 05:52:29 pm
content: replaced that stupid PCB, it looks like it works now. Nothing getting too hot. Need to diassemble and clean the magnetics section now that I know it might work, then get some accessories to test it with, and add thermal grease to a few things, but damn, its that stupid inverter control board, it must have had some kind of short inside of the PCB18 months I think, but I suspect if I replaced that board first it might have had other problems

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2023, 08:48:15 pm
content: what conformal coating do you recommend to recoat miller boards?I ordered mg chemicals silicone coating, so I can redo the coat on the mainboard.Right now I am disassembling all the front end power electronics parts and I am ultrasonic cleaning all the connectors, plan to put them back together with deoxit grease. Some of the contact surfaces don't look too great, but nothing is horrible, and doing some cleaning on the big air inductor, and I might take one of the transformers off and clean the rust off of it and laquer it a little with a brush.Maybe a little OD but I wanna take care of this thing if it works, store it inside, etc. Lots of black dust inside of the coils. I guess this thing works like some kinda magnetic sieve for fine grinder dust

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2023, 09:00:25 pm
content: also it looks like I found part of the original problem, there is a distribution bolt attached to some thick wires near the magnetics, there is a adapter to connect a fast-on there (like a eyelet to faston) and it looks blued and there is arc damage on the end of it. Probobly should replace that crimp too and check that wire.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2023, 10:16:01 pm
content: It looks like the heavy coils come out OK, the entire magnetic front end of the welder is pretty serviceable, you need to bend some bus bars to get stuff out, or is it heavy square wire, whatever... maybe miller could cut some slots that are reinforced with plates so that stuff comes out with less bending though. Like unscrew a plate over a slot so that the heavy wires can lift out instead of having to be pulled out, you could probobly do it with 1 bent tab and a single screw or even some spring in place crapLots of crap still in there, tried to get it off with spray alcohol and a air hose before disassembling but I see that the greasy dust aint gonna come out of there easily. And the plate choke could use some more laquer or a better paint process, it should not go off this quick with surface rust, but I guess it probobly gets hot down there at high currents so its probobly hard to prevent thatAnd they gotta do a better job with that honey comb air vent thing they got going on, its clever for air flow but cleaning that is a total pain in the ass, they should have screwed in a structural vent there (that is both structural support but also a vent) that you can remove and wash.I do like that the large diameter air coil is on a bent bracket that screws in with only 2 big bolts, thats a really nice feature for cleaning.I would give the magnetic section a 4/10* for build quality, and the air intake system a 3/10 for clean ability, FUCK that caked up mill scale shit in the honey comb!! If you could take that vent out like a slot it would be REAL nice. Put a stainless pipe latterally to stabilize it and stop making god damn monolithic ventsBet this thing would have not exploded if it was easier to clean....*I would have given it 8/10 but I renembered that the transformer is built mad bootleg. They stuffed a teflon tube into a winding and then jammed a wire thats loosely wrapped around a ferrite rod in there. Its like a gimmick capacitor style. That needs to be made a real part because its ridiculous! That component looks like it came off Hindu-hacktube! I dunno if that was an attempt at a adjustable core or something but holy crap if your just jamming wire into a tube thats super bootleg. Dude musta been a pump designer that transferred to electronics because its like hydraulic wadding or something lmfao, I don't want high power blunt wraps. Irma say that's 20/10 for prototyping power electronics but for premium retails GET REAL. I felt like I found a knife stuck in the patient

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2023, 01:06:45 am
content: lots of cleaning, every component resulted in a dirty ultrasonic bath (I put fresh liquid after each subassembly).Now I will bake them out, clean up some of the bigger connectors and conformal coat the reworked board, varnish the transformer exterior after a bit of rust removal, change the rusty bolts on the spark gap arc start, and hopefully it will turn back on again looking fresh inside. Even the inside of the relay was filthy, I carefully dipped it in the cleaner as not to get the coil wet though, I don't trust those relay coils for getting wet.still cleaner then that one harrison power supply I got on ebay though, that think was RANK²

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2023, 04:49:15 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on May 26, 2023, 08:48:15 pmI've had good results with it, but the fumes are noxious (ethylbenzene) and it takes a fairly long time to harden, like 6 hrs. It does flow and level very easily.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2023, 06:00:37 am
content: We used to use MG Chemicals stuff in the workshop, but I'm not sure now what conformal coating we used exactly. It was a high voltage rated one in a spray can we bought from RS Components.If you buy the highest voltage rated one you can find in the RS catalogue, it was probably that.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2023, 02:55:28 pm
content: I was a little worried about temperature and flex because the PCB is kind of one of those bugs bunny things that wobbles like a diving board and there is some power resistors that over heat, so I got siliconeBut, if you compare the dielectric strength, its 1000V/mil, vs 3000V/mil for the dielectric/insulting oneDo you need to get the higher value one? When I see a 300% difference I got a little worriedi.e. silicone conformal coat vs super corona dope (1kV / mil vs 4kV/mil)This welder coating discussion has a new thread now, so I don't hijack the stories threadhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/conformal-coating-for-tig-welder-pcb-(milller)/new/#new

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2023, 06:04:52 pm
content: Super Corona Dope for high tension wires or points, 10kV and up. Long ago I used it on a voltage multiplier for a nitrogen laser.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2023, 06:17:07 pm
content: Yes, but it's people, often managers who make be feel this way. Quite a few times, I've had to walk away, then rant about how much of an expletive a certain person is. Politics, egos and power trips are the main problems I encounter. I find it infuriating.

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2023, 11:55:48 pm
content: I had my first pick and place machine up and running in one week, making boards. I had a lot to learn about the process.After 13 years, that machine was not accurate enough for the stuff I was doing, it had some 0.5mm lead pitch flat packs and SSOP parts that were not placed precisely enough. So, I decided to upgrade. I bought a Quad QSA30A from an auction for the starting bid ($500.) What I didn't know was that it had been sitting in hot humid space for SIX years after monkeys had messed with it. The heat/humidity soak caused a LOT of failures of components shortly after I got it installed. I spent WAYYY too much time trying to debug those issues, then I found this model had large parts commonality with a very popular Samsung model so parts are readily available cheap from the far East. The other thing I found out was that the manuals are AWFUL, some of the worst I have ever seen. It is just a guide through the GUI pages with VERY little info on how various parameters interact, etc. I was totally tearing my hair out. Crazy stuff like they don't even tell you how the board coordinate system works. +Y is to the rear of the machine, but plus X is to the LEFT! However, the machine coordinates have +X to the right, as is normal. Completely crazy! It does make a tiny bit of sense, as the conveyor stop is at the lower right corner of the board, so coordinates grow from there. Fortunately, another user put me in touch with the guy who did factory training at Quad. He straightened me out on a lot of these issues. But, at one point I was REALLY ready to chop the machine into little pieces.Jon

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2023, 01:48:25 am
content: Quote from: jmelson on May 28, 2023, 11:55:48 pmMaybe you now know why it was sitting unused for six years....

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2023, 03:38:48 pm
content: Quote from: TERRA Operative on May 29, 2023, 01:48:25 amNo, the machine works quite well, once you know how to use it. A previous owner replaced one of the mounting heads. The earler version of the machine used 2-phase stepper motors for nozzle rotation, the later version used 5-phase motors. The previous owner didn't have a CLUE why that head would not home. All you had to do was look at the part number on the motor and see they didn't match!That's the monkey part.Then, I had some issues with the fiducial camera, sometimes it would detect the fiducial perfectly, sometimes it would fail terribly, being a couple mm off. It would show a one pixel wide crosshair where it thought the centroid was, so you could tell it was wrong. I pulled the DSP board for the camera out and put it under a microscope and found seven FPGA leads had bad soldering! Fixed that, and it worked like a CHARM!!! Amazing it left the factory like that.Then, there's a program called the "optimizer". It does a HUGE job in the setup for a placement job. You import a file with the part designator (R103), part descriptor(10K 0805) and XY and rotation. You then select all the required parts out of the library. Then, you run the optimizer and it matches the part descriptors, pulls the part info from the part library and selects nozzles and the order to place each part for minimum nozzle changes and travel time. This program would occasionally screw up and scramble the mounting coordinates to different parts. A guy sent me all the programs from his machine and I just swapped out the optimizer, as it was a separate program from the main mounting program. I was not sure you could swap different versions of main program and optimizer, but it worked! And, so far no scrambling of the mounting data.I do not know if this was "bit rot" or some damage to the program image. I kind of doubt the machine was delivered like that, as the screw-ups of the optimizer were frequent enough that they couldn't have gotten through testing without it happening at the factory.I don't run this machine in what people would call full production, but it sure works well once you have it set up. Setup IS complicated, as you have to tell it all the XYZ dimensions of every part "footprint". So, you don't have to separately describe 10 Ohm vs. 10K Ohm 0805 resistors, those are all listed under 0805 resistor, but you do have to have footprints describing every resistor size, every capacitor style, every IC package and so on. Once you have the setup done, it will place about 4000 components/hour quite reliably, and plant 0.5mm lead pitch parts perfectly!Jon