Magnifying Lamp for Soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2015, 08:16:07 am
content: There is another thread in the test equipment forum about microscopes:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/please-recommend-a-microscope-for-up-close-pcb-work-$200-$50-or-so/A question was raised in that thread about whether the thread belonged in that forum so I'm posting this one over here.Just looking for recommendations for a light with a magnifier on an articulating arm.8X looks like a reasonable magnification but maybe something else would be better for soldering.Not sure if fluorescent would be as good as LED - suggestions on lighting would be good.Don't know if there is any reason to have a flip-up/down lid on top.Feel free to suggest anything that has worked well.These are just some examples:http://www.homedepot.com/p/Daylight-Naturalight-7-in-White-Magnifying-Lamp-UN1030/203076979?srccode=cii_13736960&AID=10368321&PID=1319015&cpncode=45-114484882-2&cm_mmc=CJ-_-1319015-_-10368321&cj=truehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-Magnification-16-Diopter-Black-Clamp-on-Mag-Lamp-Light-Salon-Equipment-/291107796767?hash=item43c760771f:g:rAUAAOxyjxlTLMBNhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/8X-Magnifying-Desk-Table-Clamp-Lamp-Mount-Magnifier-Light-Glass-Lens-Adjustable-/400963986686?hash=item5d5b50e4fe:g:VbIAAOSwd0BVshKWhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/QO-8X-Desk-Table-Clamp-Mount-Magnifier-Lamp-Light-Magnifying-Glass-Lens-Diopter-/231314326298?hash=item35db68831a:g:8MMAAMXQL99SdE7V

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2015, 02:49:16 pm
content: Some friends gave me a well-used one of these years ago, and I still use it. Due either to it being worn out, or just the spring and pivot design, it always wants to move a little or a lot when you let go of it. This is somewhat... frustrating. I've been looking for a gooseneck design which should not have the same problem. (Tequipment has the Velleman gooseneck magnifier for $8.95, which is better than it has any right to be, but it is not lighted and has a smaller lens.)Mine does not have the lens cover. Could be useful, it does collect dust.LEDs would be better, smaller and less fragile. I frequently bump the fluorescent tube with a soldering iron handle, and have broken new tubes when trying to change old ones.Overall, it works. With a better mechanism that does not want to move after positioned and an LED light, it could be really great.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2015, 07:45:37 pm
content: Quote8x is probably higher than you want. The higher the magnification, the closer the lamp has to be to the object. 8x won't leave you room to solder. 5x tops. 3x better, IMO, for the wider field of view.

author: fivefish
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2015, 09:06:36 pm
content: glass cover? No need for it.LEDs or FL tubes.... tough choice.I have both. LEDs to light the surrounding and overall bench area. (but the LEDs are diffused/bounced against an aluminum shiny surface, not pointed directly down the bench)FL tubes on my magnifying lamp to light for closeup work (no hot spots, no harsh shadows, just a big overall even light).

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 05:08:15 am
content: Thanks for the info.I had a chance to try a couple magnifying glass lights today. Both were about the same: 5" diameter glass, 3 diopter, T9 22W 6400k fluorescent light, on articulating arm. One unit had a 90 degree flip up cover; as fivefish said, no need for that. Mostly it felt like it was in the way.Both units were about $59. For this price it starts to make it hard to justify a microscope - but that's maybe because I haven't experienced a good microscope.The fluorescent light gave nice lighting - bright enough and the color temp was ok. The light felt just slightly warm when you put your face/eyes near the magnifier; not a big deal but perceptible. If an LED light was equivalent in output and quality it might be better in terms of reduced heat.The magnifier did a pretty good job and seemed to provide a reasonably expansive view while allowing about an 8" working distance. The working distance could be made somewhat further or closer depending on your eyes and preferences. The articulating arm was ok, not great; it held it's position pretty well but only swiveled about 45 degrees on the clamp mount. One very good attribute (as noted by other EEVers) was that the magnifier/light head provides a bit of a barrier against the updraft solder fumes.Other than a so-so quality articulating arm the only thing that wasn't quite ideal was the 3 diopter magnification. I think a bit more magnification would be better even if it gives up some working distance and field of view.I'm still not sure how 3 diopter extrapolates to X magnification but I have a hunch a bit more magnification would be good.---Update: found this:http://www.blaxalloptics.co.nz/magnification-facts.aspx- my guess is that a 5-7 diopter or maybe a 3x magnification would be good - helpful enough with viewing and still leave enough working room to solder.

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 06:15:37 am
content: I have rectangular magnifier - much nicer than the round ones. I retrofitted LED lights to mine - much nicer than the fluoro stuff since it is much cooler when use a lot. I installed dimmers on the LEDs so I can adjust as needed.The unit I have has a swinging aux lens that allows 10X magnification, of course you need to move the object closer (within a couple of inches of the main lens, but great for checking for solder bridges etc.It's essentially a Luxo Wave hybrid (I scored a free Luxo Wave and 'merged' it with a larger lens head). Been using it for several years and it's very nice to use.cheers,george.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 06:17:27 am
content: Quote from: georges80 on December 11, 2015, 06:15:37 amReal nice design - maybe post some images if possible. Thx

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 07:02:08 am
content: Pics below from when I switched to LEDs. Hmm, date on the pics is 7 years agoI also put a 2nd LED on locline that has its own on/off/dimming driver. This allows me to illuminate the 10x combined magnifier 'subject' directly from above the lens, works really really well, no shadows.I removed the fluoro ballast on the lower arm and installed a 12V DC supply (to power the DC LED drivers). So, all very factory looking, but much better than the original.cheers,george.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 12:19:57 pm
content: I don't know if it's true, but I read somewhere that the flip lid over the magnifier is to avoid accidentally starting a fire. Seems pretty far fetched though, like something a EU politician would come up with.

author: MickM
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 04:45:03 pm
content: The lid keeps the shmutz off of the lens.I have this one:http://www.harborfreight.com/fluorescent-magnifying-lamp-60643.htmlRight now it's $39.99.As well as a selection of hand held 5x and 10x.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 08:32:46 pm
content: Quote from: rdl on December 11, 2015, 12:19:57 pmYep - I saw a label on a box that said you shouldn't expose the lens to sun light. But I think the benefit might be as MickM say - to keep the shmutz off the lens. Or maybe the marketing department thought it would better double as a regular light with the cover down. In my experience it just felt like it was something in the way so I'm inclined to look for a unit with out the lid.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 08:42:51 pm
content: Quote from: MickM on December 11, 2015, 04:45:03 pmThat looks like a very good deal. It has a 38" arm (according to the spec) which is a nice compromise between the typical 30" which might be a tad short and the 45" which might be prone to getting top heavy when fully extended. What is very nice about it is that it has enclosed springs rather than the exposed springs that generally come on less expensive models. Not sure how well it holds position or how good the lens is but assuming they are good the only question is whether to go with the 3 diopter (1.75X), or if a fairly common 5 diopter (2.25X) might be preferred. But for the price this model looks good. As mentioned previously, the design acts as a fume barrier for your face and it allows you to see your hands and soldering iron along with a fair amount of PCB while offering some useful magnification. Seems like a pretty good soldering accessory.http://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/home-page2015/images121015/25off121015-coupon.jpg- with coupon it's $29.99

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 09:01:02 pm
content: The additional cost of a 'good' magnifier (like the Luxo) is the lens quality, lens size (I prefer the rectangular style) *AND* an arm system that stays PUT WHERE YOU PUT IT...Lots of the cheapo's the arms fail after a bunch of use (thin/crap metal) and often they never stay put due to their design (of the arm/spring system).Anyhow, my 2c worth. I use my magnifier every day, so the few hundred $ means nothing given I've been using it for at least 7 years...cheers,george.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 09:18:01 pm
content: Quote from: georges80 on December 11, 2015, 09:01:02 pmYep, sometimes you get what you pay for.I spoke to Luxo today - very nice and helpful folks - fwiw they said the optics are the same on their KFM and LFM models. The LFM models have exposed springs the KFM have internal springs and what looks like a pretty nice head arm.I don't know how much better the optics and stability are on Luxos - maybe someone with a Luxo wants to spend $29.99 on a Harbor freight to compare optics and arms/mounts.You could spend $30 at Harbor Freight, or $150 - $250 or more with Luxo but at some point around $250-300 or so you could be using an Amscope. So many choices.

author: fivefish
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2015, 12:03:14 am
content: Check out Aven Tools also for similar price range. This is what I'm using.I bought a 2nd cheap one from eBay... and the lens from the cheap eBay china knockoff just gave me headaches. Can't stand to look at it even for a few minutes. But the Aven ones, I can work with it for hours. No distortion, and very little distortion only at the extreme edges and only when looking sideways through it. No color fringing also. It's more spendy but well worth it in my opinion.http://www.aventools.com/avens-complete-product-line/microscopy-and-inspection/magnifying-lamps-and-accessories/mighty-vue-magnifying-lamps#.VmtjZGQrL0M

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2015, 09:01:07 pm
content: QuoteYou will never replace a magnifying lamp with a microscope.Massive focal depth, focal distance, and FOV are going to keep your mag lamp in a starting position. Not to mention mobile light source, alone.This is why I suggest a lower magnification on the lamp. The more the magnification, the more you reduce those positive attributes. For the high magnification, that's where the microscope with the massive, stable base with less flexibility comes into play.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2015, 10:07:10 pm
content: Quote from: KL27x on December 12, 2015, 09:01:07 pmKL27x - Your post is timely and very much on point. I've been right on the cusp but leaning toward the same conclusion. The mag lamp seems really practical. I think it's just as you say - it's the likely starting positon and go-to viewing tool. But when I look in a simple but sharp 10x loupe it's clear that 3-5x isn't showing everything, especially with SMDs, and I can imagine that there is more to see occasionally even in the 10x - 20x range, and probably beyond for various non-soldering applications. So, I think it's probably a 3-5x magnifier and a 2 or 3x to 45 or 90x scope (with a 0.3 and a 2.0 Barlow it's easy to get 2-13.5x and 14x-90x).On the magnifier I'm leaning toward a 5x. The 3x I looked at was good but I think I'd give up a tad on the FOV for just slightly more magnification. I know you said 3x was preferred and 5x was tops on the magnifier,,,, still deciding on this... any more thoughts? Thanks

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2015, 11:17:54 pm
content: I'm still considering getting a Glamox Luxo Wave but the price is a bit steep and the maximum lense 'strength' they have is 5 diopter (x2.25). The el-cheapo magnifier lamp I have now has an 8 diopter lense (x3) and I'd like more magnification with less distortion. OTOH maybe I just need to use an extra lense. I wish I had space for a Mantis. From my past experience with a Mantis a 6x magnification is ideal for soldering and inspection

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2015, 07:14:44 pm
content: (with a 0.3 and a 2.0 Barlow it's easy to get 2-13.5x and 14x-90x).FYI, using a 0.3X barlow is not necessarily easy. That would give an average microscope something like 13" of working height. And the average microscope stand doesn't even go that high.QuoteIMO, 2-3X is good enough for 0603 passives, but not as good for placing/soldering fine pitch ICs. If you want one tool for everything, I suppose a higher magnification lamp might be the way to go, if you get enough clearance. I think 5-7X is ideal, personally, for those ICs. If you are going to have more than one tool, an optivisor might be handy to close the gap. A loupe is always handy for identifying small SMD components.QuotePreferred by me. I have a particular way I work and what I'm used to, just like anyone else. Take that with a grain of salt or three. I'm also thrown off by diopters vs magnification. As best I can tell, my lamp actually has 2.25x magnification.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2015, 07:43:40 pm
content: magnification = (diopters / 4) +1

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2015, 04:22:16 am
content: Quote from: nctnico on December 13, 2015, 07:43:40 pmYes, so I think 3 diopter = 1.75x and 5 diopter = 2.25x

author: v8dave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2015, 04:49:46 am
content: I've found it quite cumbersome to solder under one of those and mine how sits gathering dust or used purely for the lamp to light up the area I am soldering.What I found works better is a set of bifocal spectacles with the top part as plain with no magnification and the lower part with 3 or 4 times magnification. The 3x I currently use can let me do fine SMD on 0.5mm pitch stuff with ease. I got a cheap pair made for me in a local opticians. I think I paid about $40 equivalent for them.They are also handy to carry around with you if you need to work on anything away from your desk.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2015, 05:11:58 am
content: I did something similar. I bought the highest magnification reading glasses I could find at Walmart. I think they were 3.75 or 4 diopter. I paid less than $10 and they work fairly well, but then I only use the larger size smd parts.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2015, 05:16:43 am
content: Quote from: KL27x on December 13, 2015, 07:14:44 pmThanks for the heads-up on this.I'm looking at Amscope's double arm stand (which is either the same price or $15 more than their single arm stands depending on which single arm you like). The double arm stand is their model "DAW".The specs say:30" Overall Length20" Double Arms17" High Pillar10-1/4" x 8-1/4" x 2-0" Solid Cast Steel BaseAlthough the specs don't include all the dimensions a bit of look-see measuring from their photos indicates the double arm housing can be driven up to within about 0.5" of the top of the pillar (the last 0.5" looks to be tapered). Given this and other guestimates I think the maximum distance between the bottom of the objective (actually the bottom of the light ring attached to the objective) lens is about 9.25". If the upper half inch of the pillar is usable (but given the tapered maybe not) that would give 9.75" to the bench top. You would probably have to subtract out the depth of a PCB - so maybe it's close to 9" all things considered. Which means for the same head you might need about a 21" pillar. Amscope makes a single arm stand that has a 20" pillar - that might do it with the 0.3 Barlow or it might come up an inch or so short to get the full benefit of the 0.3 Barlow.PS, there is a follow-up with some interesting info on the pillar height scenarios - I've posted it back in the original microscope threadhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/please-recommend-a-microscope-for-up-close-pcb-work-$200-$50-or-so/msg821011/#msg821011(vs. this magnifying lamp thread).

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2015, 05:19:18 am
content: Quote from: rdl on December 14, 2015, 05:11:58 amv8dave and rdl, this sounds like very good idea to check-out. Seems like either a solution or a great prototype to help figure out the solution. Thx, EF

author: rich
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2015, 02:08:38 am
content: How do magnifying lamps stack up against reading glasses, optivisors and the dental loupe glasses found on ebay for soldering and small batches of SMD placement? And is the next step up from here going to be a Mantis? (I got the sense from the microscope thread that a scope might be better for SMD inspection, but not necessarily for SMD assembly)Some context - The headband-visor magnifier I currently use puts my face so close to the work that it leads to neck strain and fume inhalation. I'm not sure what mag strength it is, but it only has a single sheet of acrylic to form 1 lens per eye.Example dental loupe glasses I was looking at: 3.5X 420mm working distancehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271920086804and 4X 420mmhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191255887110

author: Docholiday
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2015, 12:02:37 pm
content: I too are looking for another magnification device and there ate a lot of choices. But just like anything else it comes down to what you can afford and what works for you. My friend swears that the only tool for her has to be a 100x microscope while another is happy with just high magnification glasses as mentioned already in this thread. For me I have a microscope with 20x magnification which is plenty even doing smd work and IC work too. Also, I have an eye loupe at 20x. Now I am looking for one of those magnifying lamps with dimable leds. Why all these? Well each have their own merits and own specific uses.For a quick inspection I will pull out the glasses. At other times it may be the eye loupe or the microscope. It just all depends on the situation and my skills and experience that dictates what and when of what I need.From all of this I have learned two things. One, you get what you pay for and two, what one person may praise and recommend as the optimal and only solution at times may not work for you at all. What I do is simple, I contact the manufacture and find out what the next trade show they will be at and where I can go and touch and feel their solutions. Before I go I make a habit of bringing of what I am working or testing with.Then why do I use these forums? To get a better understanding of what I need and why. Perhaps a totally different solution. Get valuable insights and opinions, most importantly look for the opinions of those few members like myself that see and appreciate the value of the top end brands. Although expensive! But worth every penny in the long run.So, for today I learned that the top tears of what I am looking for are Luxor and Aven. The Mantis is nice but an overkill for what I need.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2015, 08:27:39 pm
content: ^ So true.QuoteThe mag lamp takes care of that problem and trades it for another. The lamp is so close to the work that you will inadvertently bump it, making it sway back and forth. This is such a big problem for me, I am often putting my chin on the handle of the lamp while soldering, to stabilize it.... which puts me right back at your original problem of neck bent and face close to the work. At least the lamp blocks flux fumes.QuoteCompared to what? A VIDEO microscope is often described this way, as compared to a stereomicroscope.

author: rich
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2015, 10:32:08 pm
content: Ah, I may have incorrectly parsed the microscope thread and missed that subtlety. My take-away was that a magnifier would probably be the right ergonomic choice for manual pick and place with 0402 components, whereas a stereo microscope probably less appropriate due to typically larger magnification/smaller field of view.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2015, 11:37:40 pm
content: Well, that's true, too. Sometimes you will want to use a mag lamp for placing components on a pasted board, because you will have a wider view. Generally, you will use the least amount of magnification as necessary. Looking thru a microscope on a larger board, you may end up inadvertently smudging your paste more often.Personally, I think solder paste is quite often more trouble than it's worth in absence of a pick n place machine to finish the job. Part of the problem that I encounter is that it is quite impossible for me (so far) to pick up small SMD parts in a consistent orientation with a pickup tool. They quite often take a turn as they get picked up, or get picked up on a corner/edge, which makes adequately accurate/efficient placement a bit cumbersome by hand.But if that's what you're after, then a mag lamp may serve you better than a microscope. It would be a lot cheaper, too.

author: LabSpokane
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2015, 12:04:41 am
content: Save your cash and get a decent microscope. I started with a magnifier and now all I use it for is task lighting. The cost of a decent magnifier lamp with good glass is already in the Amscope / Microscope.com price range. The cheap magnifying lamps are so flimsy as to not be worth bothering with.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2015, 12:31:58 am
content: The problem with a microscope is that they often magnify too much (around 6x is ideal) and need an exact position to sit behind it. With a magnifier lamp you can just hold a PCB under it and look at it with 2 eyes while covering a large area. In many cases you don't need that much magnification.

author: LabSpokane
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2015, 03:10:48 am
content: Quote from: nctnico on December 29, 2015, 12:31:58 amNot if you get a scope on a boom stand. And the magnification issue is resolved easily with a 0.5X or 0.6X Barlow.Magnifiers are great for non precision inspection. For something to actually work under for extended periods, there is no comparison with a good scope. Just relating my experience. I have both instruments at my disposal and both are good quality. The scope on the boom stand is what gets used.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2015, 05:40:59 am
content: I use my microscope quite a lot. But I still use the mag lamp for several tasks in PCB assembly. (I have a .5 barlow and a boom stand). I still use a lighted loupe for certain things. IMO, there's no need to limit yourself to one or the other. I'd suggest anyone doing pcb work could probably use both.Even with the 0.5x Barlow, my scope has a FOV of only 2.9 inches. My mag lamp has a FOV over 1 foot.

author: plazma
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2015, 08:07:29 am
content: IMHO a magnifying lamp is good for some inspection cases but not for soldering. And for inspection I just use a good light and go for the microscope for closer inspection.I solder without any magnification or go to my microscopes lowest setting at 5x and increase if necessary.5x:25x:Sometimes you really need the 25x magnification:

author: rich
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2015, 03:13:29 pm
content: Quote from: KL27x on December 29, 2015, 05:40:59 amI think that's probably the reality - both are useful. plazma's great images show where a microscope comes into its own. I think though that I'm going to try a magnifier for manual pick and place because repeatedly switching from 'picking' with plain eyesight to 'placing' through microscope eyepieces doesn't sound comfortable for the neck or the eyes over many hours. I still dream of a pick and place machine and a mantis/lynx but other kit must take priority for now.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2015, 08:56:20 pm
content: ^ In many cases, I have found it much easier and faster to ditch the paste stencil and to solder with an iron.1. Flux the pads for any number of components you want to do. You don't have to do the whole board at once. On a larger board, you can work on just a couple square inches at a time, to avoid smudging. If doing a lot of boards, you can even do just one or two component values at a time, for ease of parts manangement/identification. If doing a lot of board, you can batch this process and do as many boards at a time as you want, as long as you place the parts before the flux dries out.2. With the naked eye, use your pickup tool to roughly place the components. No magnification necessary. Just get them in the vicinity of the pads, at least. Repeat for as many boards as you fluxed.3. Use a tip that holds a good blob of solder; I prefer a large CF tip. Preload the tip with solder.4. Under magnification, hold/align the part with tweezers. As soon as the part is lined up, touch the fluxed pad or multiple pads with the iron to "paint" on the solder.5. Use the part you just soldered as a handle. Holding it with the tweezers, you can precisely move the board to center the next part in the FOV. You maintain a really good connection/continuity between your hands, tweezers, iron, eyes, and board, this way, and this step flies by just like the previous two.The "placing" in this case isn't a precision operation. The alignment/soldering happen concurrently, and you can use as much magnification as you want without any issue of FOV or looking away to pick up the next part. All your parts of immediate interest are already on the board. This is extremely important to maintain your context. Once you enter the "world of small," you want to maintain that as long as you can. Switching back and forth to the scope takes a little time and mental stress. The only problem is you have to pick up some more solder occasionally. With a large CF tip, you can solder perhaps over a dozen passives before reloading.I save IC's for last. In a large batch process, using a CF tip, I usually don't even need to stop for more solder on most chips. I can generally pick up enough for drag soldering from the decoupling caps.

author: rich
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2015, 01:23:28 am
content: If I'm lashing something together on protoboard then I'll hand solder it using a similar technique to yours, everything else gets reflowed. Stencils for small batches, pneumatic paste dispenser for one-offs.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2015, 01:54:38 am
content: On protoboard, this technique is not as effective. You need to use a smaller tip/solder reservoir, at least, because there is no soldermask. And usually, I am making/designing a protoboard circuit as I go, so setting up multiple components and knocking them out under a scope isn't going to happen.I actually find this method to be especially efficient in larger batches of production boards, in particular. I've done thousands of pcb's this way, saving my clients a ton of money on assembly of IC-intense pcb's, even after paying myself a decent hourly on the labor - good enough where I am not complaining for the time. After setting aside the stencil and doing it the easy way.I am getting into a large batch of pcb's that were assembled by a professional at a professional price. And I'm running into 200x the bridging/error rate that I have. No-lead part with a thermal pad, so I didn't want to mess with it. There are many visible bridges that would never have gotten through my process. And even more invisible bridges that I found, just on the ICSP lines; god knows how many errors there will be, all told. I'm going to test the boards without the thermal pad connected. If it works, I may hand-solder the next batch, myself.

author: Assafl
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2015, 09:53:49 pm
content: FWIW - An Optivisor is an option I use - but I don't use it for more than an hour at a stretch.