From no parts to decent stockpile, best approach? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: alexanderbrevig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2015, 10:13:00 pm
content: Hi again guys, and welcome to the next installment of beginners (played by me) asking the wise and omniscient professionals (that's you) stupid questions.I'm a software developer trying to get into EE and circumventing 10 years of gathering parts and test equipment.The first thing I did wasbuild a workbench, and acquire the. Now onto the tedious part; components!What is the easiest way to get a decent stockpile of components?My main goal is to be able to prototype most ideas.Is there something like the (now discontinued)Seeedstudio Open Parts Librarybut for everything?I need resistors, caps, inductors, chokes, ferrites, crystals, TVSs, fuses, diodes/zeners/bridge rectifs, transistors, leds, triacs, voltregs, op amps, audio amps, logic ics, optoelectronics, some sensors, wire and connectors.I'm tempted to make a 'reel to plastic bag' robot and make these kits myself if they don't exist.Any ideas and pointers are much appreciated!

author: fivefish
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2015, 11:13:48 pm
content: When buying components, (resistors, caps, etc), buy 100pcs of the part. Usually, it's much cheaper per piece than buying 1-2 pcs. only.Also check out eBay for "set kits"... resistor kit, ceramic caps kit, diode kit, zener kit... you get lots of values (the whole range) with 10-20 pcs for each value.Electrolytic kits are more expensive, it's better to just order a few extras when you order parts for a specific project. Over time, you'll build a good stock.If you can afford to wait, you can buy specific parts for a project from eBay (China). Slow shipping though so plan ahead.If you don't mind re-using parts, salvage parts from broken equipment.Build a small decade resistor box (using the up/down switch and some smd resistors). Usually in a project, a few parts will be critical in value and if you don't have the right value, a decade resistor box will help in a pinch.Organize organize organize -- nothing is worse than knowing you have the part, but can't find it in your stockpile.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2015, 11:28:25 pm
content: Just wanted to comment - hell of a nice workbench there!

author: michaeliv
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 01:18:13 am
content: Quote from: fivefish on August 18, 2015, 11:13:48 pmI would recommend AliExpress instead of eBay if you are looking for the lowest price and can wait a bit more ( In my experience electronic components are cheaper ~20-50% on AliExpress than eBay, there's a bigger variety, but AliExpress sellers do take time to ship out items, some ship immediately, some after 1-2 weeks).

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 01:32:34 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on August 19, 2015, 12:16:42 amQuoted for truth. The only things I stockpile are LEDs, resistors, a basic set of caps, a few basic transistors and diodes, and a bunch of headers and matching connectors. Other than that, I buy as needed. I just haven't found it useful to stockpile components I may or may not need. (It helps that the main components company in Switzerland, Distrelec, delivers next-day, so if I'm really in a pinch I can get it the next day -- or order online and pick up in person.)

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 02:38:28 am
content: Yeah, don't think you have to buy a bunch of parts right off just to have inventory. Maybe a resistor kit and a kit of film caps, maybe 5-10 each of common values of electrolytic less than 500uf (you won't need many different values of electros). But anytime you have to order parts, buy a bunch. For cheap parts buy a hundred, more expensive such as logic, micros, regulators etc, try to at least go up to the first price break (usually 10 but sometimes 25).

author: matseng
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 03:21:59 am
content: Every now and then I pick up some cheap resistors and caps kits just to stock up on some uncommon values I've depleted. Then I get full reels (for smd) or ammo boxes (for thruhole resistors) of the more commonly used parts.And I always purchase *a lot* more of the a bit more specialized parts (ICs, power fets) than I actually need, because If I need them today I most likely will use them again in the future.I also tend to purchase bulk from Taobao for stuffs like header pins, tactile push buttons, plain jellybean indicator LEDs and such. Like instead of getting 10 pcs of a pushbutton from Element14/Farnell I can get a bag of 1000 of them from Taobao. Same thing with diffused 3mm LEDs - I can get a bag of 1000 for a few dollars - and they will last a few years - actually the leads on them will be corroded and ugly before they are used up for prototyping and general mucking around.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 03:31:28 am
content: Order 100 bucks worth every time you order to make the shipping worthwhile. When hitting digikey, farnell / whomever the trick is to keep it down to 100 bucks.

author: fivefish
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 05:54:12 am
content: Sometimes you just need jelly bean parts in your lab... 2n3904/2n3906, some 2n3055/mj2955 or equivalents... some n- and p-channel mosfets, some SCRs, to use for prototyping.Then you can check out performance of your project and make a determination (ooops, need larger power dissipation, or higher hfe, or higher voltage rating) and you go buy that part specifically. (and make sure to order several extras, in case your part becomes damage during experimentation, or for future use).But at least you've already tried your prototype and know it works.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 09:29:27 am
content: Quote from: matseng on August 19, 2015, 03:21:59 amTranslation: Have extras on hand to replace the ones you fry during experimentation.P.S. I think someone needs to create a "magic smoke" smiley.

author: alexanderbrevig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 09:56:20 am
content: Thanks guysI know the convention is to buy for each project and then buy a bit more than needed.Basically you give me two advices; do not buy so you end up with too much, but buy more than you need. I understand the argument that when you buy because you need then you are likely to need that part again.I will probably end up bying kits for resistors, caps, transistors and diodes, and then make a order with some specific parts as well.My main goal is to not be hindered when I want to test something, as in -I want to have most "jelly bean" parts on hand.I will continue to look around for good kits...Do you think it would be a market for a "no parts to prototype stockpile" kit?

author: matseng
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 10:32:56 am
content: Quote from: tooki on August 19, 2015, 09:29:27 amAnd I tend to not use sockets for DIP parts so I can't really re-use them for the next project. And the same goes for SMD parts of course....And since resistors and jellybean caps and transistors like the BC547 and 2N2222's costs next to nothing I usually just rip them out of my solderless breadboards and shove them into a mixed junkbox that I give away every now and then to school kids with a limited budget for parts. For me it's too tedious to straighten out and sort the parts into their proper places agin. ^_^

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 10:41:10 am
content: Sample early, sample often.Didn't your mom tell you to always cut away from yourself? Please post the video where you slice your other hand open someday.

author: Deathwish
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 10:51:52 am
content: An idea for you, put a set of long thin drawers under the shelf you put your rigol kit on and maybe put your scope tips and spare probes in them , manuals , etc.

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 11:08:43 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on August 19, 2015, 10:59:04 amI sort of agree and sort of don't. Having kits of resistors and capacitors is just a must. You don't want to have to stop prototyping and wait even 24 hours for a part, especially when it will cost you $25 to overnight a 50 cent crystal or some caps. That would make me unhappy, so I make sure it doesn't.Kits to have:1/4 watt through hole resistor kit.0805 or 0603 resistor kit.Through-hole ceramic caps kit A few hundred of .01uF, .1uF and 1uF are not bad to have because your will use those everywhere and those are very cheap.Through hole smaller value electrolytic caps kit.0805 or 0603 SMT capacitor kit.At least a few hundred 5mm LEDs, a few different colors, red, green, white are probably the best.At least a few dozen 16Mhz and 20Mhz crystals and a kit of a few each of different values doesn't hurt.At least a few dozen adjustable and 5V regulators. Again, a small kit of different values doesn't hurt.Transistors: 100 each of 2N3904, 2N3906, 2N7000. Jellybean parts.You will know what other parts you end up using a lot. For me it is ATMega328P-PU, ATTiny88, 74HC595, MAX7219 (cheap clone from eBay), certain connectors, hardware and project boards.But samples are the best. If you can, get some op amps, comparators, instrumentation amplifiers, 16/24 bit ADCs, 16 bit DACs, digipots, LED drivers, clocks, microcontrollers, etc. Those are nice to have in the bin.I think kits like these are just good deals:http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-pcs-Assorted-1-4W-0-25W-5-Through-Hole-Carbon-Film-Resistor-Kit-0-10Mohm-/111275963196http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000pcs-50-Values-50V-Ceramic-Capacitor-Assorted-kit-Assortment-Set-Hot-Sale-/151128848522http://www.ebay.com/itm/2300pcs-SMD-0805-0-10M-50value-Resistor-2-2pf-1uf-40value-Capacitor-Kit-Set-/110941312626http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000Pcs-5MM-LED-Red-Yellow-Green-Blue-White-Round-led-diode-Mixed-Color-kit-/291197363177

author: matseng
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 11:11:57 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on August 19, 2015, 10:59:04 amThat has some truth to it. But even if I have free overnight courier shipping from Element14 Singapore to my doorstep in Malaysia I still prefer to just swivel my chair around and pick out the parts I need from the shelves behind me. It's extremely irritating to discover that I have to stop tinkering for a day just because my box of bat54 Schottkys just ran out. Or just being able to test 5 different stem heights of tactile switches to discover which height that fits best in the 3d printed enclosure.When I'm in my second living place - Bangkok - I don't have access to overnighters. Stuff usually takes 3-4 days to arrive, then it starts to be really annoying. And unfortunately I just have a really small desk there - my main lab is in Malaysia where I have overflowed into a second room to the wife's dismay . :-)

author: Deathwish
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 11:12:54 am
content: I have a number of different diodes, resistors , some caps, bridge rectifiers, voltage regs +5/9/12 -12v and lm317T / 337T as a must have set. Always bet a psu will play up somewhere

author: Chris C
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 06:22:02 pm
content: Quote from: fivefish on August 18, 2015, 11:13:48 pmI really want to stress this. The more parts you have, the more critical it becomes. Give some serious thought to your organizational system. It may undergo many revisions, with each successive migration taking more time:1) I started out with those common part organizers, the ones with lots of pull-out drawers, that can be partitioned in half. They're ok for rapid access to a few parts, but each separate area tends to waste a lot of space. And they don't travel well! I took them in the car once, and they got tipped over. What a mess. Some drawers opened and parts flew out. Some drawers got jammed by parts so badly I had to destroy the drawers to remove them. Parts traveled surprisingly easily between drawers and partitions, getting mixed together.2) Next system - Plano Stowaway #3600 series boxes. The specific variety that can be partitioned in up to 24 areas per box. Apparently not sold separately anymore, included only with a larger organizer that holds 4x boxes, which I also use; if interested, I can look up the model #. These served me well, and still do. They travel without issue. Though each partitioned area may still waste a lot of space. At some point I got a few hundred smaller hinged-top plastic boxes, cheap via surplus outlet, that fit well and further subdivided the space. But eventually I ran out, and though I searched extensively, I couldn't find the same item. All similar replacements didn't fit as well, and were much more expensive. Also, when my parts collection grew, moving around partitions, boxes, and parts to keep similar items together became quite a chore.3) I'm gradually migrating to use of a lot of Ziploc-style bags, of many different sizes, some quite small. These waste virtually no space, if you press the air out before sealing. Sometimes I don't get all the air out, so I typically poke a little hole in the bags to let the air escape, pressed out by the weight of other bags. And I have a Brother label printer to make nice self-adhesive labels.3a) For frequently-used parts, I still use the Plano 3600's. For example, I have a 3600 for most resistors. For 1/4W leaded, each partition holds a decade (0-9.9ohm, 10-99ohm, 100-999ohm, etc). The individual values are kept in bags within the appropriate partition. I have fewer 1/2W leaded, those get just a couple of partitions with bags. Another partition for current measurement shunts. A few partitions for trimmers. And so on.3b) For lesser-used or bulky parts, I use a nested bag system. For example, I have a medium bag for diodes, containing smaller bags for switching, rectifier, fast recovery, varactor, and Schottky; and each of those containing tiny bags for each part # and value. The medium "diode" bag goes into a Rubbermaid bin for "semiconductors", along with transistors and such (not including IC's, I have enough of those they get their own bin). Power resistors and large potentiometers would take up too much room in the 3600's, so they all get bagged and binned.It takes a while to collect many different parts for a project, but at least I always know exactly where those parts are. The alternative is chaos and a lot more wasted time.I will also warn against buying random part assortments where the parts are not already sorted/separated and clearly labelled. No matter how incredibly cheap they may be. You will put off sorting them. When (if) you finally do, you will typically find lots of oddball parts and values, that you'll then feel obliged to spend time organizing when it will probably never benefit you.I bought some SMD ceramic cap and resistor assortments from an Ebay seller. Each value is on tape, and the value hand-written on the tape. But not particularly legibly! I don't regret it, but I had to spend some time relabeling them all, including testing those for which I was unsure. If I had to do it again, I'd try to buy from a listing that includes a picture showing the seller's handwriting.For orders from traditional large distributors, I prefer Newark over Digikey/Mouser. Not just because they're cheaper in general, but because they print part specs in a small square on the invoice, that can be cut out and taped onto something as a useful label. Big time saver. They used to include a separate sheet with the same info printed on actual peel-and-stick labels, but I haven't got that with my last few orders; either they stopped doing that, or they do it only for orders exceeding a certain size (my last few orders have been smaller).Buy some panels of anti-static foam that you can cut down to size as needed. And some anti-static Ziploc-style bags of various sizes. You'll need them to repackage ICs and static sensitive discretes that you receive packaged in ways incompatible with your storage system. Schottky diodes are static sensitive, unless they have an integrated guard ring, so when possible I get the latter to reduce special packaging and handling requirements.Some useful "jellybean" ICs that I think everyone should have, whether you want them in DIP or SMD (or both) is up to you:* LM393 (dual) and LM339 (quad) comparators (same specs per each comparator)* LM358 (dual) and LM324 (quad) op-amps (same specs per each op-amp)* TL084 quad JFET op-amp* TL431 shunt regulatorSupplement with special case op-amps as needed. I like to have a few rail-to-rail varieties on hand, MCP6002 is good for relatively slow signals, MCP6294 is faster; but they are by no means the only options or even clearly superior, they're just what I quickly picked to fill a possible need. And in fact I've never actually needed them.For digital work, a variety of 74* series logic ICs may be handy. In particular, the 74HC family, which seems most useful for interfacing to any other logic family, and isn't too expensive. But there's still a lot of parts in that family, you'll have narrow it down to what you think you'll use. If you get into MCUs, and use those with sufficient number of pins that you don't need to multiplex input/output signals, you may never need any of the 74*.The KIS-3R33S is a tiny 3.3V 3A switching regulator module, available dirt cheap on Ebay and such. Can be modified for other output voltages via external feedback resistor or modification. I bought a few dozen of them for something like $0.20 each, love them, and use frequently whenever a switcher shows clear benefit over a linear reg. Always put at least a 10uF ceramic or low-ESR electrolytic on the output to ensure stability; or if you want low switching noise, use a Pi filter (cap-inductor-cap).I could go on and on. You will always find yourself in need of something. And in trying to prevent that, you will always buy a lot of stuff you will never end up using. Plus your needs will change as time goes on. Whenever you think of something you'd like to have, but don't need immediately, put it on a list. Whenever you need something immediately, evaluate your list, and also order the items on the list you want most; feeling free to leave low-priority stuff on the list. You may find some things stay on your list a long time, until you decide you really didn't want or need them after all.

author: Kintekobo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 06:47:32 pm
content: One of the best component buys I made was the RS Components resistor set. Not sure if they still sell them but it is incredibly useful especially when designing and you need to try lots of different values. I just wish that they had made a similar one for caps.

author: alexanderbrevig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 07:07:19 pm
content: Quote from: Deathwish on August 19, 2015, 10:51:52 amThat is an excellent idea!I'm currently printing some holders for wires and probes but a shelf there for various tidbits would be awesome. Thanks

author: john_p_wi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 07:17:15 pm
content: Chris above has a lot of valid points. I have been involved with electronics for something like 30 years and work on everything from 100 watt vacuum tube amps using high wattage leaded components to SDR radios using SMD components and micro processors. Whenever I order anything I try to order a few extra pieces to meet the first price break, that being said, the true challenge will be organizing the components and remembering what you have. My method seems to be similar to Chris's and I tend to group like components in small envelopes / storage containers then box the groups and shelve. Additionally IF you order from places like mouser you can export a spread sheet of your order allowing you to build a simple inventory spread sheet so you don't continue to order, order, order.

author: alexanderbrevig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 07:26:25 pm
content: Awesome posts guys!RE: stocking up, I live in Norway and because of all the taxation (and my extreme impatience when excited by a new idea) I want at least some stock on hand. I won't go crazy with it, but I want to be able to build some simple stuff and fix typical things when I want toIn terms of organization I use the drawers at work for proto and I've grown the habit of pulling them out entirely and place them on my desk. It's a ritual when I ponder and plan while I get the parts. Not the best way, but it's how I do it now. I label each drawer ex "47 R" which contains 4.7 47 470 4.7k in that drawer.SMT parts I'll store in those 'ice cube trays' with lids, and some in air tight zip lock bags for MSD stuff. Most projects will buy MSD in 'exact' quantities so I don't get popcorn when reflowing...Thank you @JoeN for concrete suggestions! They are added to my excel sheet (I'm not usually this ... pedantic but I'm having fun with this. Might as well as my hopes for a complete stockpile kit seems hopeless (need to keep my spirits up).@john_p_wi Keeping inventory seems like a really nice idea! Do you know if there is a tool (there's an app...) for that? The software developer in me awoke

author: Chris C
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 07:31:24 pm
content: Quote from: Kintekobo on August 19, 2015, 06:47:32 pmSets like those seem nice at first glance. But I've always avoided them for two reasons:1) They're pricey, mostly due to including their own custom organizer.2) What happens when you also want to stock a value not included in the original set? No place to add it in an organizer like that. So you're stuck with keeping two organizers - theirs and one of your own. And every time you check their organizer, then find you have to check the other, you will wish you had all the resistors together. Eventually the series of small frustrations may add up enough that you decide to consolidate, and then their organizer (and the extra money paid for it) is wasted.It looks like RS' current offering is different, being based on pages that fit in a three-ring binder, each containing 24x pockets. That might be expandable. Still rather expensive. I've spoken to a lot of people who use cheaper DIY versions, using trading card holder pages if I remember correctly. Though I've never used that system either. The first and natural tendency is to keep resistors in ascending order without gaps, but then when you go to insert a new value, I'd imagine shifting EVERY component and label following it is time consuming! Worse if you permanently affixed labels, or wrote them on with a Sharpie. It's better if you leave gaps to minimize how many components need to be moved. But leave too few, and you'll still sometimes have to shift a lot of stuff. Leave too many and it's inefficient, and those binder pages aren't exactly cheap either. I considered this system, but found myself indecisive how best to set it up, until I abandoned the idea for my current system instead which never requires shifting. Others might be perfectly happy with it though, there's no one-size-fits-all solution.

author: Chris C
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 07:50:55 pm
content: Quote from: alexanderbrevig on August 19, 2015, 07:26:25 pmIt is. I don't keep an exact count of how many of each component I have on hand. But being able to pull up what components I have is really nice.For example, I'm designing a final PCB, for something I earlier prototyped using through-hole components. But on the PCB, I'm using SMD components. I'm adding a cap to the layout. I *know* I have the cap in stock, as it's a common value. But are the SMD 10uF ceramic caps I have 0604 or 0805 footprint at the required voltage? Darn, I can't remember, and the prototype next to me is through-hole; so I'll have to go look through my SMD parts. Repeat many, many times, unless you have a database.When I go to build the PCB, then I pull the actual part. And if I notice I'm running low on that cap, I add it to the list for my next order.For the inventory, I just use a general-purpose database. Microsoft Access, it's a familiar program, as I used to do development in it. Not sure what's out there in terms of programs dedicated to this task.

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 07:53:09 pm
content: My approach, starting about 2 years ago was to get only resistors and capacitors in 0805 SMT kits. They were from DigiKey and I got about 250 of nearly all the 1% values and a much smaller selection of caps since they have so many more specs to consider. I went mainly with 50v for the small ones and 25v as they got higher. Tried to stick with X7R when possible. The reason for the 1% and X7R was that I did not want a poor performing cap in-between resistor to slow me down. They are so cheap that it was not so bad and I have been very happy having a big variety.For other components, I could not make any sense out of random buys. When I did a new project, I always buy alternates and extras that get added to the collection in the end. After two years, I have a solid stash of useful parts that I am already familiar with and have probably used before. I have examples of a few hundred types of parts to get me through my late night ideas.How challenging is it for you to have access to parts?

author: alexanderbrevig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 08:39:35 pm
content: Let me show you what I've got so far (and you also get to see how the prices per order skyrocket):So, an order of $275 becomes $434 for me. This is fairly typical and as I tax on shipping I save money if I can keep the number of shipments down. I am probably going to add a bit more bags of ICs, just some 'jellybean' stuff.I'd probably save a lot by taking the time to manually order each part but I'm not sure I want to spend the time...@Chris C, at work we use a fab house that provided us with a set of symbols which linked into their registry for parts. Maybe I could do something like that... Then I could have CAD (not sure CircuitMaker allows plugins) help me manage count.EDIT: I just found this;http://demo.partkeepr.org/and it's open sourceBTW:I'm still very much learning. I have some grasp on the theory now but I'm looking to experiment and build up my intuition. That's why I want breadboardable components at hand. I mean, I've never even built an astable 555 timer circuit, though I know the math. I'm weird like that.STM stuff I'll order per project and try to do inventory in some way.

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 09:21:52 pm
content: I would say that before you pull the trigger - consider 3-4 simple projects that you would like to get through and see if you have enough stuff to do it.A small audio amplifier, a power supply, LED dimmer, LED chaser, etc. They only take a handful of parts but I don't think you could finish much with what is on your order. For me, there is nothing more satisfying and motivating than finishing a project.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 10:37:42 pm
content: Alexander, for many of those things, unless you're in a hurry, I'd suggest buying them from China via FleaBay, just due to price. (But get the PanaVise and some solder and solder wick from amazon. Look at the MG Chemicals and Kester products.)

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 10:39:21 pm
content: Quote from: fivefish on August 18, 2015, 11:13:48 pmI agree on this. I keep an enormous inventory list in a spreadsheet. It may seem like overkill but it helps in finding parts since I not only put in the part number but also the Digikey description (or alternate description if Digikey does not carry it) 2180 lines total. This is not even including the separate spreadsheet of samples.The quantities are almost never correct. Just a rough idea and I update it if I have to buy more but rarely decrement it correctly.

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 11:16:48 pm
content: Quote from: Chris C on August 19, 2015, 06:22:02 pmI wish you would - there is so much wisdom there that I think your message should be a sticky.I use the baggie method thinking someday I would get a more advance system. I think I will stay with the baggie system. I use Costco part boxes to put them in.I also use a label maker but until I make labels I use Post-It tape, I like yellow.http://www.amazon.com/Post--Labeling-Cover-Up-Inches-658/dp/B00006IF84/ref=sr_1_1?&ie=UTF8&qid=1440025640&sr=8-1&keywords=post-it+tapeI totally agree with using Aliexpress for parts kits and those that are sorted and labeled. I started with the cheapest un-sorted kits and regret it now. I pay more for labeled kits now.Now to re-read Chris C's response - thanks Chris

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 11:38:42 pm
content: QuoteLooks interesting but the horsepower needed is a little too much for mehttps://www.partkeepr.org/download/QuoteBut looks like a good Apache, PHP, MySQL project.

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 11:42:47 pm
content: That database system is just way the F overkill unless you are running some sort of company and need a multi-user system. And what the hell ever happened to a nice client-server desktop app? All the server dependencies go away if you keep it simple. But for me just putting it in Excel works out the best.

author: fivefish
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 12:01:34 am
content: For SMD, little SMD containers in groups, then stored in it's own drawer.For TH, zip bags inside zip bags inside zip bags (a'la Inception)

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 01:23:53 am
content: Don't fall into the trap of buying packs of assorted resistors or (especially) transistors from china IMHO, you always end up with most of it sitting in the drawer and probably being thrown out when you die, or items that are so similar you sit there for ages figuring out which would be "best" to use, when frankly any random one would have done the job. Keep it simple, give yourself fewer choices not more.For example, I don't keep a full selection of resistors, I don't need them, but the values I do keep are sufficient to do the job...Through hole 1R, 10R, 100R, 1k, 10k, 100k and a couple of other "typically good for led [and zener] limiting" values 240R, 330R, and some 0R for diy pcb purposes. I don't use through hole much, so this rather course selection is fine.Surface mount, 6 decades of each these 1, 1.5, 2.2, 2.7, 3.3, 3.9, 4.7 and 5.1 (ie, 1R, 1.5R, 2.2R .... 10R, 15R, 22R .... 100R, 150R, 220R .... up to 100k, 150k, 220k...), also 1M, 0R and some useful led-limiting-values 20R, 180R, 240R, 300R, 360R, 430R. I store these in pill organisers and use 1206 size. If I need other values I use theresistor parallelerto get the ones I needAdd a few trimpots also, multi turn (3296 style) and single turn. The values aren't that important, 100R, 500R, 1k, 10k, 100k. Something like that. I use smd single turn.Capacitors: 100nF, 22pF, 10uF, 100uF, 1000uF, and that's about it for general digital purposes where you are looking to decouple, or filter power supply rails mainly - but I don't do analog stuff, if you did, a bigger selection is warranted.BJT: 2222, 2907, 3904, 3906 (all in SMD variants) and that's it. Add some ULN2003 darlington drivers, they come in handy occasionally.MOSFET: One N channel and one P channel which have logic-level-suitable gate drive requirements and a reasonable current capacity (low RDSon). Personally I use Si2302SD, AP2305, and for less demanding situations the good old 2N7002Diodes: 1n4007 (or 4004, whichever is cheaper at the time), 1N5819. That's about it, anything more "exotic" buy as needed.Zener Diodes: 5v1, 3v3 for obvious slap-dash regulation reasons. 5v6, 3v6, 6v8, 15v for protecting against over voltage on various things (IC pins, mosfet gates).LEDs: 5mm assortment, 3mm assortment, smd assortment (I use 1206 size).Regulators: 5v, 3v3, 12v, and adjustable, in both through hole (LM78xx, LM317) and smd (various, I use 1117 series). Also, a few cheap DC-DC converter modules from China in your drawer can save the day.sAs for IC's, apart from the ULN2003 already mentioned, 74HC595 and 74HC166 shift registers, 74HC4051 analog switch, *324 op-amp or other fairly generic quad op-amp, optoisolator (EL817/PC817/LTV817 are common for through hole, EL357 for SMD), maybe some 4049/4050 hex buffers (useful for level shifting). And of course most important of all in the modern world, microcontrollers - whatever one floats your boat. I wouldn't bother with many other IC's than those for general on-hand supply.Various hardware also I like handy:5.5/2.1mm DC barrel plugs and sockets (panel and pcb mount, get round panel mount ones, easier to fit!).Rocker switches for panels (power mainly), double throw best to maximise your options.Toggle switches for PCB and panel, dpdt ones to maximise your options.Standard 6mm tact switches, through hole and/or smd depending on preference. Some 12mm ones too can be nice.A few panel mount pots and encoders if you come across them cheap, or just buy as you need. Again, with the pots, KISS, one value, maybe 2. Don't forget to have some cheap plastic knobs to fit them.Insulated crimp terminals, bullets or spades as long as they are fully insulated. Ring terminals too (eg for ground connections).Wire, get a good length of rainbow ribbon cable (comes in various widths from china in 10 way repeating colour sequence), a couple spools of general hookup wire in the AWG26-30 range, and some thicker stuff around say AWG20. Some twin core (figure-8) red+black would be nice too.Misc small self tapping / wood screws, nuts, bolts in small metric sizes.And of course loose alligator clips, test hooks, and banana plugs make it easy to make an extra test lead when you need it.A generic relay rated for your mains voltage also handy.

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 01:27:21 am
content: Were test leads mentioned?The first "thing" that stopped me experimenting was the lack of leads, alligator to alligator and alligator to banana.Made up test leads from China are really really really crap and not worth any penny paid. They are 66 ga wire pressed to the metal clip that have a 1 ma load capacity. Better to use your fingers.So far these have been my only total Chinese failure.I bought clips on ebay (and it was hard to find good ones) and made up my own leads with different size wire (12ga to 18 ga). I had to get banana ends from china but I soldered them to the wires.So another thing maybe not mentioned is ---> wireFYI since I am in the US I was able to find Radio Shack alligator clips.Also with some of the cheap ass china leads, I could not even squeeze the clip because the metal clip would slide around in the plastic.Since you have a good GF go for the Pomona leads.Anyway a good practice to use your new solder station is by making test leads. ie soldering the wiresEnjoying this topic, thanks for starting it

author: Chris C
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 04:44:05 am
content: So many good suggestions, yet a few things still virtually untouched upon:HEADERSI stock plenty of 0.1" straight single-row 40-pin snappable male headers, and fewer dual-row, both in common black. They let you build up any male header of any size you want on a PCB. Before soldering header segments which are adjacent but disconnected, attach female headers to them, as that holds them straight in relation to each other. And keeps you from burning fingers on exposed male pins.More recently, I started stocking a few single-row in white too. I've found them handy to visually mark certain pins. Supposedly the plastic part of the header is nylon, and easily dyed from white to any color one might need on a whim; but I haven't gotten around to trying it."Snappable" female headers really aren't. They don't snap cleanly, and they're even a pain to cut cleanly. More recently I've started getting small ones (like 1x2, 2x2, 1x3, and 2x3) so I can build up what I need without ever having to cut. Plus 2x4, but only because I actually use that frequently. Again, when combining multiple female headers together, I put male headers into them before soldering, to ensure perfect alignment.You can buy the crimp tool, male/female pins, wire/ribbon cable, and empty plastic shells to make single or multipin jumpers yourself. And I have all these. But I found it's time consuming, requires some practice, and doesn't always look that great. More frequently I just end up using these:In M-F, M-M, and F-F, each in both a short length for intra-board connections, and a long length for intra-board connections. You can tear them apart as needed, or not. Only complaint is that if you leave multiple wires connected for a tidy multi-pin jumper, it looks like Rainbow Brite puked all over your project, clashing with any single pin wires/jumpers you deliberately color-coded. I've contacted several manufacturers begging for these in some neutral color like gray or black, but so far no one has done it.SCREW TERMINALSThese things:Get a stack of the two and three pin varieties. They snap together securely, so you can build up any size terminal block you want, and not bother larger ones.SPECIALTY CONNECTORSIf you want one or two of a large variety of connectors on hand "just in case", try 4UCON, atwww.4uconnector.com. They're a manufacturer, with a huge variety. Sign up and you'll be able to order samples of many of them, from one up to a limit which differs with each part. I went a little crazy. Fair warning, shipping cost goes is inflated and goes up with every part, and it took 6 weeks for them to even ship. But even including shipping it came out cheaper, per connector, than if I'd bought all those connectors anywhere else. This is where Sparkfun gets many of their connectors, adding a 500-800% markup (based on sample prices, they probably pay less by buying in quantity).WIREYep, humble wire. Solid, stranded, a few different gauges. But I also like to color-code my wires, and also keeping a decent selection of wire colors would make the number of wire types needed go sky high. Except I realized that I typically only need each end of the wire color coded. A $10 heat shrink tubing kit, with a variety of colors and diameters, allows me to easily do that.

author: Neganur
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 05:22:44 am
content: I would heartily recommend only to buy what you need for your current project. The rest just sits around and collects dust.Also avoid spending so much time on planning component storage/sorting stuff. Spend it on the projectcollect stamps or coins if you feel the need to catalogue stuff, it quickly escalated into "must have all the EXX values" without any real need.

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 05:24:13 am
content: Quote+1If I remember right the OP mentioned that his GF is letting him buy this stuff so.....my suggestion to the OP is buy everything mentioned hear while you can get it and mention to your GF that everyone "told" to you that you HAD to get all of this stuff. You may not be able to get it later.Also mention this will allow you to make more money in the future.Everyone here is talking like they are masters of their own domains (lucky them).

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 06:46:45 am
content: Quote from: Chris C on August 20, 2015, 04:44:05 amOh yes, how did I forget headers!I keep plenty of straight single row male and female 2.54mm (0.1"), if i need a dual row I just use two singles.Also have low profile and normal profile single male right angle (aka long-block and short-block), single row female right angle, double row right angle male.Rolled pin/machine pin headers in female, and also male, the female ones work for IC pins if necessary, and the pair work as a lower-profile and more easily top-solderable interconnect.And a few different colours of male single straight.Also shorting links (jumpers), in different colours.QuoteNormal female headers are easy to cut to length, yuou lose one pin, just score along the Nth+1 pin, snap, and then clean the cut end by whittlin' like you're Jed Clampett sitting on your porch.QuoteIf you get some dupont wires like these, get a selection of dupont shells also, I keep 1x2, 1x3, 1x4, 1x5, 1x6, 1x8, 1x10 and 1x20, if I need a 2x, I'll just superglue two 1x togethor. The 1x1 aleady on the dupont wires is easily slipped off, just use a pin or your thumbnail to lift the tab.

author: alexanderbrevig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 08:51:22 pm
content: Thank you all so much!I realized that if I placed orders that amount to $40 then I would not need to pay tax on it. Rules are weird...So, I ended up ordering kits and assortments from ebay, in individual purchases. It took some time, but I think I should be able to make most of the really simple beginner circuits when the parts arrive.I'm excited! Also, very grateful for the awesome ideas and responses from you guys. Thanks

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 04:07:55 am
content: Quote from: alexanderbrevig on August 20, 2015, 08:51:22 pmThat's great. When I order kits from eBay sellers, so many throw in the shipping and it is very cheap. Like the stuff I linked earlier, that is how I acquired most of my small passive parts, hardware, headers, etc. - $2 to $20 a time from a large number of sellers. I have no loyalty, I find when I need and buy it from the cheapest guy - most of the sellers are selling the exact same items out of Chinese mega markets.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2015, 11:15:44 pm
content: Quote from: JoeN on August 19, 2015, 10:41:10 amCut towards your Chum, not your thumb.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2015, 07:32:23 am
content: Quote from: alexanderbrevig on August 20, 2015, 08:51:22 pmYou'll also find that the Chinese vendors invariably write very low customs values, like $3.

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2015, 08:13:46 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on September 22, 2015, 07:32:23 amSometimes it's totally justified. O0

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 12:43:08 am
content: This problem is why Mouser is my first stop for components.Save projects, BOMs, and any part you have interest in to your account. Give parts any name or custom ID# you wish. Name your interesting purchases by giving them a unique P.O. (Project X) so you can find them easily in your purchase history. Share your projects or BOMS with partners, manufacturers, etc with an email link.Any project that requires volume is straight to mouser/Newark/digikey and then sort by price, anyhow.Self restraint goes a long way. I have binned a lot of my early "stockpiles," and if I had any common sense I have a bunch more that would be headed to a landfill.I keep an assortment of SMD resistors caps and SMD LEDs in a test tube rack. I keep one SOT 23 logic PFET, one SOT23 logic NFET, some SOT23 pnp and npns. 1 type of Schottky on hand, some boost converter ICs and inductors, some piezos. USB connectors (for power, more than for actual USB). Pin headers, tac switches. Basically just the stuff to build the brains of a circuit. For any major power handling, I scrounge/salvage/order. Don't get me wrong, I got a lot more stuff, but it's not that I would have to go out of my way to collect it.

author: nbritton
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 09:41:00 am
content: During the through hole years as a teanager the only thing I stocked were the parts I pull out of dead equipment. I had a large bin of dead equipment that people would give me for free and a disordering iron.

author: nzo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2015, 10:31:08 am
content: I wouldn't lose any sleep over"what will happen to my unused parts when I die?".Just buy a little stock from Ebay or AliBaba. So what if you don't use it! Leave a note in your will and GIVE all your parts etc to local school electronics enthusiast(s).I don't understand experimenters who line the pockets of overpricing suppliers like RSComponents, Mouser, Digikey etc. Why spend $200 or $400 when you only need to spend $20 or $40? Guess wheretheyget their components from! Of course if you're wealthy you probably don't give a damn.

author: matseng
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2015, 11:22:37 am
content: Quote from: nzo on September 28, 2015, 10:31:08 amAre you seriously suggesting that the three companies you mentioned gets their parts from the Huaqiangbei market in Shenzhen or similar places and not directly from the manufacturers?

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2015, 12:33:57 pm
content: I've got lots of parts in drawers, many in compartment boxes, some in open boxes. Chinese food containers are useful too.An assortment of nuts & bolts is a must if building stuff, and various headers, etc. I've gotten lots of good stuff out of 'grab-bags', junk-boxes, etc. over the years. I sit on the floor at home and sort them, them stuff them back into the car and take them back to my workshop.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2015, 01:03:31 pm
content: As a teenager I bought "surprise bags", i.e. overstocked parts from production lines and such stuff. Those bags were quite inexpensive and comprised a lot of common parts used back then and some special components. IIRC, mostly Philips. BTW, good training for learning color codes

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2015, 01:43:48 pm
content: Quote from: madires on September 28, 2015, 01:03:31 pmSometimes goodies found in those bags of stuff give you inspiration to build stuff, too.

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2015, 05:11:24 am
content: Solderhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/solder/

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2015, 04:34:22 pm
content: Stock-piling is so last century. Just order what you need for a project...I order my stuff on ebay - cheap but long wait - or at Farnel - not so cheap but only a couple of days away (no shipping cost).

author: stevenhoneyman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2015, 06:56:39 pm
content: Quote from: obiwanjacobi on September 30, 2015, 04:34:22 pmAvoiding stock-piling isn't possible really... I mean, unless you intend to try and buy individual resistors etc then you'll probably have 198 of them left over from a $1/£1 piece of cut tape from ebay.I'm not saying that's a bad thing, it's what I do!

author: alexanderbrevig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2015, 11:46:06 pm
content: Quote from: obiwanjacobi on September 30, 2015, 04:34:22 pmThen please make a list for what to order when the project is "learn electronics (and make stuff along the way)"

author: obiwanjacobi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2015, 04:59:20 am
content: You don't learn electronics by having a bunch of parts in your home. You learn it by doing simple projects (at first) to see/understand how they work and build from there. You really start with a battery, switch and light-bulb (ok LED and resistor).And I am not saying you should not have a small assortment of resistors and caps (and some small diodes) at hand - of course that makes sense. But that is like 20 or 30 different parts (say 5-10 each) and doesn't cost a lot of money. The rest you buy when needed. My parts cabinet is a "cookie-jar" (it is not really - it is a small box). And of the 3 E12 decades of resistors I bought I mainly use the 220, 1k, 4k7 and 10k.Also when you're starting - its no use to buy SMD components. Buy a bread-board and through-hole stuff. When you start doing your own PCBs (or start repairing stuff) then is the time to think about SMD.I know it is the "norm" to have a huge stockpile of stuff - but most of it you will never use (saw it in Dave's latest clock video - he had old 70's and 80's logic ICs that he never touched). That "money" is just sitting there doing nothing. Bad investment if you ask me.In the end you decide. Do what you think will work for you. Change it if it doesn't. But start small and build up from there.

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 02:12:51 am
content: Quote from: obiwanjacobi on October 01, 2015, 04:59:20 amI agree. My efforts were focused on creating a project or project series and gathering the parts most likely to be needed for that AFTER I had gone through some design efforts.It only takes a handful of small projects to get a feel for what you should have on hand. You will always want passives a few values up/down from the usuals.

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 03:29:24 pm
content: You can also rat old machinery and stuff for good bits. For example, I ratted a huge photocopier today. I scored a 5V 20A power supply, a 24V 31A power supply (has M6 bolts for output terminals!), various beautiful DC motors with shaft encoders and a great big pile of driver boards. No doubt there's good bits in all that crap. I might start a thread about it.

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 05:13:46 pm
content: Quote from: wagon on October 03, 2015, 03:29:24 pm24v @ 31A is no joke! You can make a little welder with it.

author: karoru
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 12:21:35 am
content: Quote from: rx8pilot on October 03, 2015, 05:13:46 pmHe just should make sure that contacts are good before testing overload protection, unless that screw connection is going to be permanent;) It reminds me when my father wanted to check how does the voltage from new shiny IGBT arc welder works. He used my old Philips scope and el cheapo 60 MHz chinese Uni-T probe but didn't notice that this thing has that ground ring on it. After a bit of meddling with the uncovered probe tip around the big red hole with ground alligator clip in the black one, it made beautiful sparks. Funny thing is that this probe after getting 180A current through it still works a treat... Plastic and a fragment of ring melted but besides that no problem whatsoever.

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 12:47:01 am
content: I was thinking more along the lines of trimming the output voltage to 28.8V and making into a big battery charger. Should pump up a mobility scooter battery from dead in no time.

author: bumba000
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2015, 06:27:10 am
content: I've been tearing into everything. Old computer power supplies, 120 to 12v converters, LCD monitors, video cards, sounds cards and a cable TV remote control. Also spent $80 at radio shack last week for a bunch of resistors, diodes, pots, bread boards and some conductive glue stuff. Not sure what I'll do with the conductive glue but I thought it was pretty cool and it was on clearance so I bought both on the peg. I'm a sucker.

author: David Spicer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2015, 03:22:01 am
content: You wrote a msg to me last month but I was OS and couldn't reply. Sorry. Drop me an email David.spicer@icloud.com re Xilinx dev kits. My post attracted no interest at all so if you want one it's yours. You do know what you are buying I hope. Flags have a steep learning curve though the end result is worth it! Ds

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2015, 10:03:20 pm
content: Places like DigiKey, etc sell assortments.http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/kits/resistor-kits/2490615Years ago I bought small boxes from Radio Shack and the first couple assortments I ordered from DigiKey came in the same size as well.I started with a resistor and capacitor kit, then when I'd run out of one size I'd replace it with a 100pack. For example the kit might come with 10 .1uF caps so I'd order 100.I'm in the process of re starting the hobby again now that my kids are old enough to be interested. So I'm using some of my old stock and then adding to it.In the picture you can see the little boxes (opened here holding resistors), there are several inside the toolbox I've had since I was a kid, then I added the (fishing) bag to the right with mechanical parts.I also saved up and bought one nice big protoboard and seem to have lost it somewhere over the years. I've now bought a few smaller ones so I can put a project I'm working on away until I get the rest of the parts it needs.I'd start with a resistor and capacitor assortment, a few regulators, a couple smaller protoboards and wire kits. Then decide what you want to make and buy stuff specific to that. For example I'm re-learning PIC's after selling my programmer after college so I bought the Pickit3 and 44 pin demo board and a few other pics and they are in the microchip cardboard box.

author: SharpEars
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 03:24:50 pm
content: Quote from: eugenenine on October 31, 2015, 10:03:20 pmI'm in the same boat. I restarted when the kids got old enough to care. Unfortunately, I have become a packrat and a voltnut in the process. If you knew how many high quality digital power supplies and 6 1/2 digit meters I have, you would feel truly sorry for me.I mean seriously, here are power supplies I own that even I would consider extreme:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hpagilent-6675a-the-120-v-18-a-2000w-monster-power-supply/msg565113/#msg565113https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/what-to-do-with-a-4-000-v-power-supply-(plus-mini-tear-down)/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/looking-for-goodinexpensive-bench-power-supply/msg546127/#msg546127http://www.keysight.com/en/pd-836789-pn-6626A/precision-system-power-supply-25w-or-50w-4-outputs?cc=US&lc=eng- Mini teardown coming this weekend...Don't become a VoltNut, it's a slippery slope and very easy to fall into and it becomes more about the parts and tools you have than the projects you can build. It's very easy to get into a: I need every value available, every tolerance available, every kind available, very low ppm, very low tolerance, etc..., rot.Coming up with interesting projects to do that is the hard part in making electronics your hobby...

author: SharpEars
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 04:07:07 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on December 11, 2015, 03:32:09 pmOne 8.5 digit dmm may be on the fringe of what is "reasonable." One 7.5 digit, six 6.5 digits and several 5.5 digits (i.e., where I am hailing from) combined with (I've lost count of how) many high end power supplies is definitely VoltNut territory. I've given up on even trying to answer the question, "Why do you need another one?" These things have become like Pokemon cards - you've got to catch them all.

author: bapou
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 05:29:42 pm
content: Use an inventory managment system:Since we use partkeepr (open source and free, I'm not related, just a happy user)https://partkeepr.org/which keeps track of the parts, the projects, the vendors of the parts etc., live got much easier andwe now have a large accessible stockpile

author: halloween360
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 05:57:39 pm
content: When you say that partkeepr keeps track of projects, does this mean it would allow you to update inventory by project?Example:Lets say project xyz uses the following:qty part1 a2 b3 cIf you were to build project xyz, would it deduct the parts used from your inventory?

author: bapou
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 09:00:47 pm
content: yes, it does;you can choose project report: This reports you what you need for the project and what you have to buy (and shows the supplier + nr's if you want)... and if you click "remove part from stocks" it removes them.I have it coupled to a label printer (running on a raspberry pi as a printerserver) and this allows to directly to print labels for the parts, butalso for the boxes containing the parts.

author: halloween360
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2015, 10:24:46 pm
content: Might have to download and play with this! Thanks for the info!

author: matt.zepess@gmail.com
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2015, 03:56:54 am
content: Two ways... Buy a hundred pack of every component you think youll need. Or Take some time and hunt for old printers and electronics that you can find for cheap at thrift stores or yard sales and then desolder the parts you want.

author: wonderfulpcb_sales
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 18, 2015, 03:48:13 am
content: I think you need to design a circuit, and then use the electronic component mounting to the circuit board.you can do it!

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2016, 08:14:30 pm
content: where to buy all of these assorted kits and basic essential parts all together from one place? that is the problem I am facing where I am forced to wait a lot to get some resistors and wait another time to get some caps.

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2016, 11:04:40 pm
content: if you want to have a good and useful stock of parts then be prepared for a investment comparable to the price of the gear on your bench. and actually you'll need 2 "sets" of parts - through hole for quick proof of concept circuits on breadboards or stripboards and then SMDs for the final build - PCB area is expensive for one offs if you're not making your own PCBs.a good practice is every time you order some parts for a project - order more than you need - especially from the common parts you'll use in another projects. and always watch for sale items... it really pays off (e.g. last month i scored IR half bridge drivers for 25 cents a pop - they're going for approx 1 eur in 100 quantities, this month i scored some nice power mosfets in DPAK for 7 cents a pop)

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2016, 05:32:41 am
content: Quote from: rob77 on February 10, 2016, 11:04:40 pmwhere do you buy these? aliexpress? but shipping from china takes a lot, and during this time you may change your mind or your project.collecting them separately is very hard... I wish there is one way we can use to get all general purpose parts at once.________Another topic which is strongly related: CUSTOMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!please tell me how exactly is it in your country? like when you get an oscilloscope or some little parts.thanks!

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2016, 07:14:11 am
content: In the US I have never had any issue with customs for small parts. I buy all the time. No fees at all. I bought all my equipment in the country, through.Just a few items I have bought recently from China that came through without problems, usually in about 2 weeks:http://www.ebay.com/itm/171505067685http://www.ebay.com/itm/200911914297http://www.ebay.com/itm/371089057890http://www.ebay.com/itm/351493804042http://www.ebay.com/itm/371278122006http://www.ebay.com/itm/181847022613Most of these have come in small padded envelopes. A couple of times I bought a large number of LED displays at a time that came in a big box and no customs that time either. I don't think anything has ever been opened. I hope they xrayed a few of them though. Bought the displays from these guys:http://www.futurlec.comA couple dozen of these made for a large box:http://www.futurlec.com/LED/LEDMVL58R.shtml

author: rob77
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2016, 09:16:15 am
content: Quote from: VEGETA on February 11, 2016, 05:32:41 ami'm buying parts from TMEhttp://www.tme.eu/- no customs as it's within EU - it's next day shipping. raw materials for PCBs fromhttp://pcb-diy.com/(copper clad, riston, dynamask) - it's a local company - so it's again EU and no customsi'm buying only some extremely jelly bean parts from china - with those it's unlikely they'll be fake , and some raw materials from china (UV curable solder mask, solder paste) and here and there some modules (relay modules or DC-DC convereters...etc...)

author: Grzegorz2121
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2016, 11:27:05 am
content: If you want to get few components to start with i recommend to start collecting electro-trash.These stuff can give you a lot of good components:-electrolytic capacitors-power transistors-huge amount of IC. (regulators, drivers, microcontrolers, logic, opamps)Now I have good amount of these components from unsoldering!

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2016, 12:25:37 pm
content: So there is not way we can get them all together, we have to collect them. However, can anyone lists ALL of these general purpose components so one can revert to his list rather than forgetting half of it xD?* I bought these:- PICKit 3.- PIC16F877A.- big breadboard.- resistor set (1280 one).- cap set (ceramic).- cap set (elec..).- 4001-4007 diodes.- zener diodes.- PNP and NPN transistors.- LM358 op-amps.- 2x16 LCDs (locally).- breadboard potentiometer set.- breadboard encoders set.- jumper wires of all sizes.- multimeter (cheap uni-t).- 500 LEDs (5 colors).- some screw drivers.- LM317 regulators.- Shameful retarded soldering iron + solder.* What I miss and I think it is necessary:- analog oscilloscope (this is my biggest problem because shipping is a hell = read: donations are welcome xD).- inductors set.- MOSFET set (or IGBT).- TRIACs...- opto-isolators (don't know what kind).- power resistors (really useful?).- thyristors (necessary?).- some LCDs of different sizes than 2x16.- What about SMD stuff?! by this, I must get all above parts but as SMD... not to mention its tools!- transformers!! what kinds and what sizes?!- Power supply, as I use a phone charger+7805 for now. I got a DP30V2A module which I think it is great but it needs DC input (transformer+rectifier).- different types of linear regulators like LT3080 and others.- shotky diodes, still thinking if they are necessary or not.- switches...- push buttons...* What I miss and I don't think it is a must _NOW_:- STM32 discovery kit.- PSoC kit.- TFT LCDs and their driver chips.- switching supply ICs like those of LTC and TI for building SMPS.- good and cheap JTAG programmer.* What I miss and don't think they are necessary:- digital ICs like flip-flops or such stuff.please tell me in details what do you think of my list (which I don't think I mentioned all of it). If you have any recommendations please give it to me... Also, is this set can get me to design and prototype practically anything I want (nearly)?

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2016, 03:35:28 am
content: Some small programmable logic. Then you can make your own "digital ICs", whatever you want, whenever you want. These are very cheap for that purpose and you can teach yourself an interesting and useful skill.http://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-IC-EPM240T100C5N-TQFP100-ALTERA-NEW-/171529814418http://www.ebay.com/itm/altera-Mini-Usb-Blaster-Cable-For-CPLD-FPGA-NIOS-JTAG-Altera-Programmer-/200943750380

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2016, 04:49:58 pm
content: - analog oscilloscope (this is my biggest problem because shipping is a hell = read: donations are welcome xD).- inductors set.- MOSFET set (or IGBT).- TRIACs...- opto-isolators (don't know what kind).- power resistors (really useful?).- thyristors (necessary?).- some LCDs of different sizes than 2x16.- What about SMD stuff?! by this, I must get all above parts but as SMD... not to mention its tools!- transformers!! what kinds and what sizes?!- Power supply, as I use a phone charger+7805 for now. I got a DP30V2A module which I think it is great but it needs DC input (transformer+rectifier).- different types of linear regulators like LT3080 and others.- shotky diodes, still thinking if they are necessary or not.- switches...- push buttons...

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2016, 04:55:51 pm
content: - analog oscilloscope (this is my biggest problem because shipping is a hell = read: donations are welcome xD).See if you can find a used one local, you don't need anything fancy to get started.- inductors set.I can't recall the last time I used an inductor. Maybe if you want to build switching power supplies.- MOSFET set (or IGBT).- TRIACs...What are your longer term plans? controlling motors or other big loads? wait until you need them.- opto-isolators (don't know what kind).- power resistors (really useful?).- thyristors (necessary?).- some LCDs of different sizes than 2x16.Again what do you want to do, wait until you have a need or want.- What about SMD stuff?! by this, I must get all above parts but as SMD... not to mention its tools!Learn to protoboard first then start looking at these when you want to start soldering up something more permanent.- transformers!! what kinds and what sizes?!maybe one or two if you want to build a power supply otherwise I never use them.- Power supply, as I use a phone charger+7805 for now. I got a DP30V2A module which I think it is great but it needs DC input (transformer+rectifier).If you want to learn to build power supplies or build a nice bench supply otherwise just get a wall wart for the dc input.- different types of linear regulators like LT3080 and others.If your getting started maybe a few 78xx or LM317xx but not too many as there are a lot of newer better ones. I bought a couple of microchips.- shotky diodes, still thinking if they are necessary or not.- switches...- push buttons...maybe a handful of pushbottons that can fit the protoboard to srart

author: boffin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 12, 2016, 06:26:22 pm
content: I'm going through this right now. I agreed to teach a basic electronics course to a bunch of co-workers (all programmers, so heavy on the MCU side), and got them to commit to $10/week for parts for 8 weeksI then placed thirty-six different orders on Aliexpress for various things (breadboards, ICs, LEDs, resistors, Arduinos, displays etc).I find that most assortments contain a bunch of stuff I don't need, and not enough of what I do need. For example, do I need every ten of E12 resistor value? Probably not, it's more useful to have 30x of every E3 value; can't say I've often gone "damn I don't have a 910k resistor" when I know I have 1Ms in the drawerBut I do echo the sentiment that it would be cool for someone (Franky? Dave?) to sell a beginner component kit that included what you really need.R: 30ea: 10 Ohm -> 1M Ohm (E3 series - probably don't even need 30 of 100k+)C(ceramic): 10ea: 47pF -> 0.047uF (E3 series) + 30* 0.1uFC(electrolytic): 10ea 1uF -> 100uF , 5ea 220uF -> 2200uF (E3 again)Semiconductor assortment: 10* of the common stuff 1N4148, 1N4004, 2N7000, 2N4401 (my go-to 3904/2222 replacement), 5* of slightly less used 2N4403, IRLB8721, 7805...

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2016, 12:04:46 am
content: Quote from: eugenenine on February 12, 2016, 04:55:51 pmI could not get anyone locally, I tried but no one is interested in this. Even my previous university refused to sell me one.Quotemy plan is to use a transformer + rectifier and connect them to the DP30V2A module to get a basic and good power supply. Actually, the price of this module is great for the features that it has. I will do a review of it once I get it. As you said, no need to get pricey stuff from the start.QuoteI got about 20 of LM317 (i think it is the 1.5A version). I really like these good ICs of TI and LTC in the switching and linear power supply field. These custom ICs are more professional and efficient than the traditional LM317 I guess... and I plan to use them to design a power supply in the future. But for now I will stick with LM317.About buttons, I want a package (ONE PACKAGE) to contain all types of buttons and knobs in it, cuz then I won't be forced to pick each type alone. Do you know one?now, what is your parts list? how do you get an idea of a project?____Side note: I am about to join a local company that is specialized in fixing industrial electronics like Inverters and PLC cards and stuff like that. Do you think it is a good idea?what

author: egeorgiadis
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 04, 2016, 08:58:26 am
content: I just wanted to say how jealus I amnice Equipments and nice place...

author: alexanderbrevig
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2016, 12:12:54 pm
content: I've just stumbled upon something that's a nice addition to the 'stockpile' and that is learning a SPICE.I've now learned LTSpice and it is so nice being able to test things out before deciding what's needed for your particular design. It makes it possible to experiment without having an 'infinite' stockpile.

author: BobbyK
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2016, 06:17:41 pm
content: How to stock up on Electronic parts and not waste (too much) money and your girlfriend's goodwill:1. Buy a resistor kit from eBay. Buy additional 100x of 100Ohm, 1KOhm and 10KOhm resistors. If you ever need more resistors, say 2 for a project, buy 10, unless the value is in the E12 resistor series, then buy 100.2. Buy a Capacitor Kit from eBay. The electrolytics in these sets should not be used in anything you want to last long. Buy additional 2200uF 50V and 4700 50V caps from Mouser for your power supply needs.3. Buy a 1W Zener Kit from eBay (about 10 pieces per value)4. Diodes: get 1N914 and 1N4007 (100 each). Additionally get some 35Amp hard core bridges (5 e.g.) for power stuff. Everything else should be bought from DigiKey or mouser in 10 quantities)5. LEDs (buy 100-200 packs from eBay. They are dirt cheap.)6. Buy TO-220 Regulators. 3.3, 5, 9 Volts. Buy 10 of each from a reputable source. Also buy a bunch 10 of LM317 and 337s. Also get a few low droputs like LD1117V33 (goes from 5V to 3.3 nicely).7. For transistors buy a transistor kit from ebay (you will mainly need 3904, 3906 and 2222s. Any other transistor you will need, buy in 10 packages from mouser. I always buy 100, and I always end up with lots of leftovers - and leftovers take up space. Remember, Space is what you will run out of long before you run out of money.8. Pots - you will need Lots, from good manufacturers. You will either reuse pots all the time in different projects, in which case you want them to last, or you will build them into a device you will use for a long time, again, they need to last. 10 turns are expensive but worth-while. Lots of 3/4 turns one (larger ones). same with trimmers, buy good quality from Mouser or Digikey.9. Buy a bunch of dev boards, and LCD displays that fit the dev board. I bought about 10 MEGA2560 boards that get swapped around for different projects, but MSP432 will do just as well. eBay has them for cheap.10. Battery holders for 2, 4 and 6 batteries. + 9V battery leads (or make them from old 9V Batteries)11. Pin headers. I got about half a kilo of these at a surplus sale two years ago, and I have used up about half of that already. Buy different styles, though straight are best, and can be bent if they are long enough.12. Solder - buy thin 60-40 in a half kilo roll. More than that, and it will get old before you are done.13. Lots of stripboard, veroboard, prototyping board, thin pcb, single and double sided. PCB is to an EE as paper is to a painter. You need different types and lots of each.14. Buy a good side cutter. I got a Knipex, and it has served me well.15. If you don't already have one, buy a good drill and some carbide bits for different screw sizes!16. A USB isolator is great. Adafruit has a 20$ one.17. pushbutton switches. Something with nice long pins that is big enough for a "manly" finger!18. ICs - only get them from reputable distributers:4N35 optoisolators x 10TL072 x 25TL431 voltage reference x 5LM386N (for those times you need to "hear" a signal!) x 5Low voltage (3~5 volt) Rail to Rail OpAmps (anything you can get for cheap) x 10Get a few microcontrollers that are through hole. ATMega328Ps are fine x 5.Crystals: 4, 8, 10, 16 MHz crystals. 5 of each from eBay - or a few bags of crystal kits from eBay.19. Cool Parts that you should have at least one of:high power IR LEDs.high Power RGB LEDs.High Speed or High Resolution ADCs and DACs.wide frequency range VCO e.g. MAX260X seriesARM microcontroller dev boardPrecision opampPrecision Voltage sourceDigital SwitchDigital PotEncoder Switch20. Anything else is really not worth while stockpiling. I have a ton of "Jellybean" parts that I will probably never use, simply because they are the lowest common denominator. Just buy a few extra whenever you need them for a specific reason. And don't forget, you should probably simulate a circuits, and reading all the datasheets and looking at similar circuits (what part have others used in this role or setting) before e.g. buying 5 different parts to test out for yourself.Remember when making orders from Mouser, DigiKey, Farnell, etc. Don't pad out your purchase (e.g. for free shipping) with "more of the same" resistors, transistors, etc. Instead, buy a cool part that you have never used before (e.g. Hall Effect sensors, MEMS Gyros, etc. etc.) There is a lot of learning value and fun to be had in playing with more those parts.

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2016, 12:06:45 pm
content: I can never understand why so many people on the forum buy small parts from ebay. I gave up on them a long time ago when it got to be more time and effort sorting out the one non scammer from the 25 scammers for each product. If your buying parts from digikey and mouser anyway just buy some assortment kits from them at the same time as well.

author: BobbyK
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2016, 04:15:02 pm
content: I went back and looked at my eBay purchases. I have purchased about 200 items in the past year. Out of all of those, there were two items that had issues.1. item never arrived from china. Seller kept delaying tactics. Eventually gave me a refund. Item was about 12 bucks.2. item was supposed to be used, but was dead on arrival. Checked inside, and all caps had been blown. Basically, I had paid 10 Euros for a CD player/Radio, and I only got two (albeit good Panasonic) speakers out of the deal, so no big loss.Overall that gives me a 1% failure rate when shopping on eBay. Just make sure you never buy very specialized items at too-good-to-be-true prices. I recently saw a listing for 40 Euros, for a Virtex-5 FPGA dev board, where the item picture was taken from the internet. Did I buy it? You bet I didn't!To OP: make sure you don't start mixing items you use for prototyping (generic, ebay, etc.) with items you want to use in a product that you plan to keep (e.g. an Amplifier, Power supply, etc.) or sell. After getting something to work using cheap throwaway stuff, calculate/simulate temperature ratings, and buy the appropriate parts from a proper vendor, if you want your stuff to last.BTW. One thing I would not cheap out on either is Leads and Breadboards. Proper alligator leads, etc. of good quality will last you many years, and not being able to trust your testing equipment/leads/Breadboards basically makes those things useless.

author: inteljoe
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2016, 06:09:53 pm
content: While I agree and disagree with various statements made in this thread, for whatever my opinion is worth, I will say that few things are more frustrating then having to order a part and waiting days or weeks for it to show up. Especially when I only need something that costs a few cents, for example a single resistor, capacitor, diode, etc.I am guilty of buying components and equipment I will likely never use, and simply buying too many of any given component, or at least that is what my girl gives me guilt trips over. I will post a picture or two of my component drawers sometime... But that aside, I like being prepared, I like having options when designing and building a project. I like to experiment and learn how components work and they interact with each other. Theory only takes me so far, I'm more of a physical hands-on guy.So, if that requires a stock pile or "going overboard" (aka overkill), so be it. But to each their own.I would also like to note that I have no realistic options locally for sourcing components or equipment (aside from the lack of overpriced selection at my local Fry's & Radio Shack), I can't run out to my local electronics shop and buy something anytime I need it. Aside from the occasional Craigslist deal, everything I buy is online, it takes time to ship and I have to account for the cost of shipping. It's better to buy in bulk then waste money shipping a few dollars worth of components.

author: BobsURuncle
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2016, 08:53:12 pm
content: After getting your basic passive components and some EBay grab bags you might consider the parts list inside the book Learning The Art of Electronics, by Thomas C. Hayes and Paul Horowitz. This lab focused book covers a wide range of analog and digital electronics exercises that require well over a hundred different components which could be a good way to stock a general electronics lab. The link below has spreadsheets with all the parts.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/learning-the-art-of-electronics-parts-bom/msg904674/#msg904674

author: zal42
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2016, 10:21:17 pm
content: I don't really stockpile as such, but when I need to buy parts, I always buy a few more than I need. If I can afford enough more to get a price break, I buy that much, otherwise I usually just go with 5 extra. Originally, it was to allow for part-destroying mistakes, but really what it means is that I always have a small supply of the parts I'm most likely to use, and I don't have boxes full of things "I might need someday" but never seem to.

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 26, 2016, 10:32:07 pm
content: I've been stocking up on generic parts (mostly SMT) by buying assortment kits like these:http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Electronic-component-kit/506373_500791312.html

author: epiflow
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2016, 12:00:11 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on August 19, 2015, 12:16:42 amTHIS

author: FrankE
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2016, 11:31:37 am
content: I don't want to live somewhere resembling a digikey warehouse and I have enough with tools kicking about.Next day isn't long. I stack whatever it is that needs the part, write up the notes and get on with the many other things that I need to do.I'll get a 5 or 10 pack if it's good value and I'll use it within a year but to heck with tying my money up in speculative stock.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 09:38:03 pm
content: Quote from: obiwanjacobi on September 30, 2015, 04:34:22 pmIn Norway you need to be an company to order from Farnell..

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2016, 05:47:53 am
content: Quote from: neslekkim on April 30, 2016, 09:38:03 pmWhy? Stupid law of some sort?

author: rqsall
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2016, 06:05:42 am
content: Quote from: JoeN on May 01, 2016, 05:47:53 amNo, Farnell doesn't want to deal with small orders. They have a fixed price contract with their shipping company and offer free shipping on any order, also small ones. Companies however usually order larger amounts so it works out for the shipping company and farnell.In The Netherlands, farnell will sell to private people but only for orders of 50 euro or more and then you get free shipping.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2016, 11:19:59 am
content: Quote from: rqsall on May 01, 2016, 06:05:42 amThe free shipping part is not the big problem. It's access to components that is, beeing able to order from them.Farnell have a Norwegian department and norwegian prices, so one doesn't get extra taxes as you get with Mouser, Digikey, RS etc.. (And the extra fee from the company collecting the tax.. )

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 29, 2016, 12:55:46 pm
content: FWIW: Ebay buying experience and ratings list by GreenPhotons keeps getting better:http://www.sciencetronics.com/greenphotons/?page_id=855It's a linked list of sellers. Think of it as "the good, the bad, and the ugly" list

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2016, 11:02:44 pm
content: Some good information here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/equip-your-electronics-bench-help!!!/?topicseen

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 03, 2016, 11:24:42 pm
content: Quote from: Cliff Matthews on June 29, 2016, 12:55:46 pmThat good list is not so good. I know for sure that gc_supermarket as example sells tons of counterfeits (personal experience). Also if you take some time searching what they are selling, easy to find very obvious fakes, especially opamps.

author: TomS_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2016, 12:30:34 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on August 19, 2015, 09:29:27 amThis ^^I've been hitting RS and Digi-Key over the past month buying bits to put together a prototyping environment. Also my local "retail electronics" chain store, but trying to avoid then add they are much more expensive.Already fried an LED and transistor.Transistors I bought 20 of each NPN and PNP for pence a piece. Also a bunch of N and P channel logic level MOSFETs. The MOSFETs are all SMD but I found some little DIP adapter boards with Digi-Key, so that was a nice excuse to do some SMD soldering.I like RS because they ship next day for free for almost everything (even if you only spend 20p!!!). If you can get enough parts together with Digi-Key they are generally a bit cheaper but only do free shipping over a certain cart value. Seems they originate everything from the US whereas RS has a warehouse in the UK.Gotta love electronics, been having a lot of fun lately.

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2016, 05:39:25 pm
content: Quote from: TomS_ on July 15, 2016, 12:30:34 pmEvery adapter board I have ever seen at a professional distributor like DigiKey has been hideously overpriced compared to what you can find from Chinese sellers on eBay. Prototype boards don't have to be military/space quality to work. The Chinese boards are all adequate quality from what I have seen and I have bought hundreds of them. Also, if you ever want to get into doing PCBs, designing your own adapters is a good place to start. Hopefully Britain has something like OSHPark. OSHPark is $5 per square inch for three, postage paid, within the US. For small parts it is very reasonable to make your own custom adapters.

author: TomS_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2016, 01:27:39 pm
content: Yeah. TBH I did kind of use them to bulk up my cart a bit to qualify for free shipping, which otherwise would have cost £12. The adapters together were less than £12, so win win. Otherwise yes they are quite pricey on an individual basis.I ordered some more adapters from ebay just the other day, they should arrive early next week and I may likely do that again in the future if they turn out to be decent enough quality.

author: Trigger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 02:23:47 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on August 19, 2015, 09:29:27 amA wizard tapping a chip with his wand and smoke popping out.

author: jonovid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2016, 04:10:10 pm
content: IMO cheap surplus Chinese electronic components from aliexpress works for me, Ok for most hobby electronics. but the professionals use DigiKey. as for electronic test equipment you'v come to the right place. Dave would know!as for my hobbyist lab all basic. tools , 3 millimeters one is analog, one 10MHz oscilloscope ,power supply's battery's also make good bench power supply's 2 soldering irons , one sucker thing. a solder pot. cheap $20 Chinese videoscope / microscope that saves video for SMD work , 2 desktop computers 25 or more electronic teardowns from off the street & numerous garage sales. - aliexpress also has bulk resisters & caps as with all cheap surplus test everything before using. as many Chinese transistors are testing E-C-B not E-B-C also many Chinese SMD components are in unmarked in rolls. Up-date- My system of organization is to use airtight Plastic food storage containers with lids in 2 Litre = .5 US-Gallons & 10 or 7 Litre.= 2.6 or 1.8 US-Gallons. No dust or lost sub miniature components screws or washers. also 10 Litre tubs can hold a whole electronics teardown in its entirety. So my new components are organized into resealable zip plastic bags taged with self-adhesive labels then put into the storage containers. I have tried mini storage Drawers, but I found them taking up too much space & letting the dust get in. still on the lookout for an ice cube tray with lid for un-striped SMD components.

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2016, 02:43:00 pm
content: Optical drives are common trash, but contain more re-usable parts per square inch than most finds. This Instructables article is one of the most photo-rich I've seen.http://www.instructables.com/id/Disassembling-a-CDDVD-reader-and-reusing-its-parts/?ALLSTEPSFor those in countries blocking that site, I put the PDF here:http://docdro.id/PYtpmdECheers!

author: jonovid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2016, 01:54:48 am
content: Quotewhole computers have more re-usable parts per square inch than most finds but are not as common in the trash nowadays

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 05:49:06 pm
content: Another way to see a "list" of stuff is to look at Dave's meter and scroll down to"Customers Who Bought This Item Also Bought"It seems like a reasonable list of things bought by people who bought his meter. It is a list of decent stockpile of parts and tools.

author: TheDane
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2016, 04:21:06 pm
content: AliExpress and Ebay is certainly an option if you want to keep the stockpile yourself.Ham fests/auctions, or joining local electronic oriented clubs can be an interesting option as well, if you 'only' need a single (+ a few to blow up) item, for your prototype needs.Beware that most of the stuff out there are mostly second hand, through hole and 'old tech' (No 0402 smd, fast flash micros, huge eeproms, etc).Ham operators gone 'silent key' (dead&burried) can also be a good source, and huge caches of components can be had for no price for just carrying it all away, to relatives wanting outrageous prices - depending on relations, etc. Be awarePolyfuses are extremly usefull and recommended, when you start working on stuff and find that not everything wants to play as you wantGetting a decent workshop takes a LONG time - and alot of work. Happy hunting - sometimes gold awaits around the corner (and yeah - it's literally gold plated) you just have to find it.

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2016, 04:22:30 pm
content: What are the best "Grab bags" or assortments out there?Ive bought several of these in the past, and although they are not good if you want a specific part they are good for when you need something, don't have it somewhere else, often you can find something that will work in your junkbox, the bigger it is the better for that..and also for serendipity, you might get a random part that leads you into learning something new that you would not have ever considered were you not presented with it.

author: jazer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 07:46:27 am
content: Old/broken electronics for donor parts are better than grab bags, which seem like floor sweepings more than anything else. You get random parts and they generally don't cost anything. Keeping stockpiles of broken electronic stuff has its downsides of course.Depending on what you do, you'll find that you tend to go back to the same well over and over. For example, there are hundreds of resistor values available, but (especially if you mostly design your own stuff) you end up using the same half dozen or so for most things. Once you figure out which are you go to items, buying a bunch from ebay and the like is cheapest.

author: jazer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2017, 07:25:49 pm
content: If you don't have any test instruments at all, a DMM is more than a little handy. Also, having more than one is useful when monitoring something.They can be had at very low cost, and free if you're in the US and have a Harbor Freight store nearby. They give them away just for walking in their store. See attached printable coupon or link:http://www.hfqpdb.com/coupons/11_FREE_7_FUNCTION_DIGITAL_MULTIMETER_1482355038.9542.JPGThere's a teardown thread for it on this forum with lots of good info:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/harbor-freight-cen-tech-90899-small-teardown/It's not the best DMM in the world, of course, and Dave probably hates it, but it's useful for secondary measurements and much better than having no DMM at all.

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2017, 03:46:22 pm
content: I gave most of my grab bag and pulls from old stuff to my kids. I had so much odd value, odd size stuff that it wasn't worth the time and space. When I'm working on something I order extras.

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2017, 11:09:32 pm
content: Some more useful info:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/parts-list-for-starting-an-electronic-lab/msg1115733/#msg1115733

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2017, 10:14:13 pm
content: I keep a stock of resistors, capacitors, IC sockets, LEDs, connectors and other bits that I use in lots of projects on hand but other stuff I usually buy as needed. The most challenging for me was actually connectors, there is an overwhelming variety of them available so what I've tended to do is find a series I like and then buy a selection of the most commonly used sizes along with the crimper or punchdown tool for them.For random parts I also regularly pick through the E-waste bin at work and drag home various discarded equipment to tear down and harvest interesting bits from. That's a handy way to get stuff like crystal oscillators, inductors, relays, buttons/switches and heatsinks. You do need to be careful though, for reasons I don't understand, some companies frown upon salvaging junk. Drives me nuts because I despise waste and firmly believe that the most efficient form of recycling by far is re-use.

author: jazer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 07:46:36 am
content: Dave did a video showing the guts of stuff from the white van speaker scam that showed what looked like recycled parts inside some dubious quality audio components.I've never seen something like that in person, but I suppose there might be a thriving Chinese component recycling market to do that on any large scale.I agree that re-using components is the best form of recycling, rather than a land fill, or indiscriminately melting down piles of e-junk and using mercury for gold extraction, poisoning whole towns.Semiconductors are probably OK since most have very long useful lives, but recycling electrolytic caps is bad news; they barely last in new stuff.

author: Skyfox
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 04:00:26 pm
content: For my stockpile I've been collecting junk circuit boards since I was a kid and desoldering parts from them. Only within the past year have I finally started trying to organize by labeling a couple of storage trays for 24-series resistors and capacitors, and getting other drawer units to start decluttering and unpacking my original overloaded storage things. Also within the past year I've started looking up datasheets on parts so I have some information on what they are. Oh, and wire...I've been collecting scrap wire since I was a kid whether it's multi-stranded stuff or solid core phone/data wire.In recent years I started actually spending a little money on cheap parts from Tayda Electronics and Digikey, when I needed things I simply didn't have and didn't want to rig up something out of what I did have. The EEVblog videos have helped greatly in understanding this stuff, even though I'm still at a very beginner level of knowledge.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 04:57:12 pm
content: I don't generally salvage electrolytic capacitors but there are exceptions based on where it's used in the circuit. It's been my experience that larger, higher value capacitors used in low frequency applications are usually in good shape. Output filter capacitors in switchmode regulators take a beating. Other types of caps are generally fine to salvage.

author: jazer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 03:55:52 am
content: This has been touched on before here but in ancient threads, and it's tangentially apropos for this discussion:What's the prevailing wisdom for flux when soldering:paste, liquid rosin, no-clean, flux-pen, harvested from your backyard pine tree, hope and prayer?Any good sources? Name brand stuff vs. Chinese/ebay witches' brew?

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 08:43:10 am
content: I normally just use the flux that's in the core of the solder. Sometimes I use a bit of additional liquid rosin flux for heavily oxidized connections.

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 08:51:03 am
content: Quote from: james_s on January 28, 2017, 08:43:10 amThat works great for through-hole soldering. For drag-soldering on SMT parts I tend to flux the heck out of the parts and board that then put the solder on with a chisel tip. That works the best for me on SMT parts, especially when you are talking about QFP-100, QFP-144 type parts.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 09:10:01 am
content: Yeah I was assuming through-hole. I do the same thing when I hand solder SMT parts, dab on a bit of liquid flux with a Q-tip and stroke a small blob of solder along the pins.

author: jackzzj
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 12, 2017, 07:23:05 am
content: I just bought some kits from ebay... have to wait for a long time

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2017, 04:20:25 pm
content: how do you organize these parts? I mean in a cheap way that anyone can buy

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2017, 08:46:44 pm
content: Quote from: VEGETA on February 14, 2017, 04:20:25 pmI use stuff like thishttp://www.cabelas.com/catalog/browse/tackle-storage/_/N-1100377

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2017, 11:45:52 pm
content: I meant something like dividing and sorting resistors and capacitors. Other chips as well.

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2017, 02:55:37 am
content: The plastic divided boxes, one holds resistors, one capacitors, etc. Then they are divided out in each box with the separators.

author: mdijkens
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 01:10:59 pm
content: For components with lots of values like resistors and capacitors I use these small plastic bags sorted in small cardboard boxes my mobile(s) came in. Cheap, doesn't take much space and easy to find right values.

author: RCHRDM
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2017, 04:20:23 pm
content: There are some good basic capacitor, resistor, diode, and transistor kits on Amazon.com by Elenco.Mouser is a good place to buy too. You can buy a small quantity (10 or so) of parts like resistors and op amps. The have a $4.99 USPS shipping option, which is very reasonable. The advantage over eBay is that you can buy exactly what you need from one vendor, rather than searching all over eBay for your parts.

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2017, 04:18:39 pm
content: Quote from: RCHRDM on February 19, 2017, 04:20:23 pmGood for you in USA xD. However, me in Jordan I can't get anything from Digikey or Mouser but to pay 75$ shipping for it. I discovered a solution for that which involves another storage company.

author: gowithyourself
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2017, 11:00:22 pm
content: Don't get caught up in parts, equipment and setup. At the end of the day it's learning and making things that counts. A lack of parts or equipment usually isn't the problem, it's a lack of time or direction.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2017, 02:34:05 am
content: That depends. When I was a teenager I had lots of time but very little money with which to obtain parts of equipment, I had to scavenge most of my parts from discarded electronics and build my own equipment like power supplies, logic probe, signal generator, etc.Now that I'm older I'm most limited by time.

author: gowithyourself
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2017, 12:21:40 pm
content: Sure, but I don't think that has so much to do with age as the time one lives in. There used to be limited ways to learn something. You either learned by yourself with what you had available or you went to school. Since we entered the information age, and with the rise of globalization, the things available to us have increased by many orders of magnitude. While this has made it easier to learn things, it has also made it harder to learn the right things.I think there's a number of other reasons why not to build a stockpile as a beginner. Like that you don't know which parts to get, you'll progress to other parts quickly, it will be a mess to keep track of everything, you still have to order things you won't have etc. But hey, everyone learns differently.It's also sort of ironic that that the same factors that makes it easy to build a stockpile has made the stockpile itself redundant. But it's the same with many things, like music.

author: JenniferG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2017, 09:51:32 am
content: Look up 500pcs 50 values resistors on ebay. I think it was like $1.50. Also 170pcs 17 values transistors for $3.00.

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2017, 03:45:11 pm
content: Thanks, finding good key word sequences really makes short work. I don't mind paying a bit more, giving preference to a seller some reputation to guard (better chances of getting something, which is better than nothing..)I also tried "120 value 50v electrolytic capacitor" or just "value 50v electrolytic capacitor"

author: JenniferG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2017, 05:09:04 pm
content: Quote from: Cliff Matthews on February 26, 2017, 03:45:11 pmYeah I generally try to buy the one that is most affordable, which a lot of other people buy from as well (shows # sold), and I take a look at the seller feedback as well. With any luck I'll have decent components

author: SingedFingers
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2017, 06:06:01 pm
content: I just buy what I need for a project/experiment. You eventually end up with a good stock of parts.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2017, 06:12:33 pm
content: It's really handy to have a good stock of resistors and capacitors though. I really hate sitting down to build something and then finding I forgot to order one particular value resistor, or accidentally got 470K instead of 470 Ohm and then having to spend a half our rifling through boxes looking for that one 2 cent part. Now I have a notebook full of SMD resistors and capacitors and a bag of through hole resistors for just such an occasion.

author: SingedFingers
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2017, 06:19:51 pm
content: You can actually make do with a very limited selection of parts. 10, 22, 47 from each decade is enough for most things. Series and parallel combinations allow all intermediate values to within 5% or so which is plenty accurate enough.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2017, 07:43:06 pm
content: I don't want to series/parallel resistors and capacitors, especially with SMT stuff that just gets messy. It's one thing to do a temporary hack to test out something I'm repairing but I like to do clean, professional work.

author: SingedFingers
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2017, 08:13:56 pm
content: For repair and production yes but do you give up designing something because you don't have an E96 value in stock?

author: boffin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 07, 2017, 08:55:33 am
content: Quote from: SingedFingers on February 26, 2017, 06:19:51 pmWhen I built my basic stocks,a resistor assortment (10ea everything from 1Ohm to 10M) - overkill, ideally 30ea of the 1 / 2.2 / 4.7s would have been more usean electrolytic assortment (0.1 -> 1000uF)a ceramic assortment (22 pf-> 1uF)a semi assortment (with a ton of things I never touch), and I still split this 50/50 with a friend.If I were building a kit for beginners from scratch, it would haveresistors (10/ea) 1, 4R7, 10, 22, 47, 1M, 2M2, 4M7resistors (25/ea) 100, 220, 470, 1k, 2k2, 4k7, 10k, 22k, 47k, 100k, 220k, 470kcaps (ceramic, 5/ea) 22p / 47p / 100p / 220p / 470p / 2n2 / 4n7 / 22n / 47ncaps (ceramic, 20/ea) 1n, 10n, 100ncaps (electrolytic, 16-25v, 5/ea) / 0.47 / 1u / 2u2 / 4u7 / 10u / 22u / 47u / 100u / 220u / 470u / 1000u (maybe a 10/ea of the 10, 100uF)diodes (15/ea) 1N4004, 1N4148transistors/fets (10/ea) 2N4401, 2N4403, 2N7000 (maybe more 01s fewer 03s)power fet (5/ea) IRLB8721It's been a while since I've used something other than one of these basic jelly-bean parts in a tinkering project.Anybody else have go-to parts they can't live without ?

author: SingedFingers
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2017, 09:23:48 am
content: That's a pretty good list to be honest.I'd add a few cheap cermet or carbon trimpots (2 each 100R, 2k, 5k, 10k, 50k, 100k) as well which are rather handy to have floating around. I tend to use them to measure impedances on the breadboard.

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 07, 2017, 09:31:23 am
content: Quote from: neslekkim on May 01, 2016, 11:19:59 amHow are you able to order parts from Farnell in Norway? Whenever I try to register on the site to order something, they want a company registration number. The only parts vendor I'm able to use here is Digikey! Even with the VAT it's usually the cheapest. But for test gear I don't have any options really.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2017, 10:02:47 am
content: Quote from: TheAmmoniacal on March 07, 2017, 09:31:23 amI have registered with my firends regnumber, after registering on farnell, putting items in the basket many times and not buying, they actually called me, and I told them my problem.. And gave me the idea to use my friends regnumber, and it works fine.Elfa is another option that works fine for all.How is digikey working?, can you order and pay norwegian vat directly, or are you billed from the courier?

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 07, 2017, 10:13:21 am
content: Quote from: neslekkim on March 07, 2017, 10:02:47 amI just get an invoice/bill from the courier 2-3 days after delivery. Has always been VAT only, no other nonsense.Elfa is crazy expensive, especially on parts (2.25 NOK per resistor, 30 NOK for a single linreg etc. Basically 3-30 NOK a piece for jellybean stuff). And thoses prices are excluding VAT!

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2017, 01:35:28 pm
content: Quote from: TheAmmoniacal on March 07, 2017, 10:13:21 amHm, Elfa bills me directly, courier not involved at all, so you say the courier only bills you the invoice/vat?, no extras?, very strange.. Need to try that.Quote from: TheAmmoniacal on March 07, 2017, 10:13:21 amNah, not that bad:https://www.elfadistrelec.no/no/motstand-30-ohm-ohm-rm0207sfcn30r1t52/p/16070536I bought my 34461A for 6494 eks vat when it came, about 2k lower than the "official" supplier..

author: JossDalVera
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 22, 2017, 07:53:46 pm
content: I have seen on ebay at times big boxes just full of "mixed components" which pretty much are just random. they are cheap however you have to sort them out

author: Neganur
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 23, 2017, 05:34:04 am
content: Don't buy that "mixed grilled" stuff unless you want a hobby like collecting and sorting stamps...your time is used better in actual project in my opinion. I think it's better to buy proper assortments.It can ofc be fun to sort stuff but in reality it's very rare you get parts that are actually useful unless you see something in a pile that makes it a bargain.

author: Mr. Scram
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2017, 03:06:48 am
content: Not too long ago I started stockpiling too and have found that is it really nice to have the common passives at hand. For those I can regularly find all sorts of uses. I also bought a large amount of classic op-amps and other ICs that seemed common or interesting. Those get used a lot less, because I tend to reach for superior modern day chips that are ordered specifically for the project, rather than building something with an outdated LM358. They are cheap as chips, though, and storing them takes little room, so it does not hurt to have them. They can be useful fixing things, but they are not as useful as the common passives.

author: TheUnnamedNewbie
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2017, 08:28:23 am
content: I don't know how common this is, but at my university, you can order parts from some suppliers, including farnell and RS, through our assembly/logistics team inside ESAT (EE dep.). This is, to my knowledge, is actually cheaper than getting stuff yourself from those distributors because the university gets price deals. There is a slight fee for the department, but even with that, I've orderd 15 euro's worth of parts on farnell and ended up having to pay 12 euros, even though the farnell price is without taxes and such (and if I orderd for myself I also had to pay shipping and stuff!). I believe this service is available to anyone, not just staff and students.I have some basic parts, mainly through hole, if I want to breadboard stuff. Cheap, crappy chinese kit boxes of capacitors because I don't really care about how long they last.Sure, I can get next day delivery on stuff, but when I'm working on a project on saturday, I want to work on my project then. As, for now, my projects aren't that complex, they can usually go from "Idea" to "finished breadboard and ready to design a pcb" in one weekend, next-day delivery still isn't quite enough. On day's I'm in my uni, I can also rely on the parts store in my department, where I can go buy stuff. Usefull for stuff like high-power resistors. They also store hundreds of 4000 and 7400 logic IC's, zeners, ....For the same reason, I don't really stock SMT stuff, since I don't build my own PCB's either (get them from the same department at my uni, no soldermask tho...). If I have to wait a few days for them to build my pcb, I can also wait for 24 hours to get those parts.

author: boffin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 26, 2017, 07:40:57 pm
content: Based on top my list above of basic passives/basic transistors, what would everyone add as basic starting components. 555? TL071? 4016? PC817?I'm wondering if there's enough demand for someone to say to one of the Shenzen suppliers "make this pack for me", and sell them for $30

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2017, 06:16:34 pm
content: The basic passives are the most useful by far, resistors and capacitors in a whole range of values and a few different types, and organize them. I've spent countless hours of my life searching for that one resistor I forgot to order, maybe I need a 470 ohm and I'll find I ordered a 470k, then I'll rummage through my boxes and find 4.7 ohm, 47 ohm, 4.7k, 47k, everything but the part I need. It may only cost 2 cents but that's little help when I don't have it.Having a few ICs is handy, 555, a few generic op-amps like the TL082, 2N3904 and 2N3906 transistors, some LM317s, depends what you're working on but those are parts I often use. I may find that I need something more specialized in the final circuit but I can do a lot with the basic stuff.I agree that buying random assortments can be of limited value, although it's fun to go through them and see what there is. It's a great way for a kid with few resources who wants to experiment with electronics and it can be a creative process trying to design something interesting around an assortment of parts one already has, but I wouldn't buy a ton of random bits just hoping they'll be useful some day.

author: scorched
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 07, 2017, 04:23:52 pm
content: I am by no means an expert, as I am just returning to the world of electronics from my days in the military 20 years ago. But what I did to acquire my stockpile, was to find places that sold them as bundles.And specifically I have bought several "boxes" of scrap parts, as well as some specific packages from gold mine. Sometimes they have deals that are worth taking many times not.For $8USD I ordered this, and while a lot of it is junk, once I sorted it all, I ended up with a good amount of decent items.http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G9321Here is an example, each pack is only $2.50USDhttp://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/products.asp?dept=1053.Also look in the assortments for specifics.http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/departments.asp?dept=1409And for shear fun I purchased a surprise RCA parts box, mostly cap, coils, and resistors, but a few kinds each eeprom, transistors and such. Had over 150 items.http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G21550If you get this pack, you get a little better selection but limited to 50 items but I did not acquire this one.http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19894ASo all said, I spent about $30, and consider myself pretty much fully stocked for my return to electronics.Already repaired my Denon AVR4806 with what I ordered, maybe I got lucky, but anyway I am happy.Cheers!

author: dimkasta
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2017, 12:27:09 pm
content: I did not read the entire thread, just the last page, so excuse me if it's already been mentioned.Don't forget to get a bunch of the old trusty lm7805 and lm317s

author: Mr. Scram
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2017, 07:59:39 pm
content: Quote from: dimkasta on April 08, 2017, 12:27:09 pmOther than them being well known, are they really still viable? The drop-out is quite high by modern day standards and they tend to piss away power too. It is good to get to know them, but they aren't really recommended for any circuit that has to perform.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2017, 08:27:37 pm
content: There's nothing wrong with a 78xx, I still see them occasionally in modern-ish devices. I wouldn't hoard hundreds of them but it's handy to have a few common types on hand. 7815 and 7915 are handy if you want to make analog audio devices, hard to beat an old fashioned linear power supply for clean DC.

author: dimkasta
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2017, 11:24:48 pm
content: Quote from: Mr. Scram on April 08, 2017, 07:59:39 pmAll valid arguments, but I thought we were talking about a stockpile for general experimentation.There is nothing wrong with them unless the design is sensitive to high-frequency dirt and noise. But then we would not be talking about quick experimentation using stockpiled stuff. We are talking about a device that needs a purpose-designed PSU.Of course, some LT stuff might probably be a good idea too, but they tend to be lower voltage, way more expensive and far less available.

author: TheUnnamedNewbie
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2017, 01:30:44 pm
content: Other components that I like to keep around, that might not be so common: Some power resistors! They can serve as quick loads for testing powersupplies or power switching circuits. I like to keep at least 10 .1 Ohm, 1 Ohm and 10Ohm 2W resistors around, and am looking at stockpiling some more.

author: karoru
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2017, 05:45:53 pm
content: Quote from: TheUnnamedNewbie on April 12, 2017, 01:30:44 pmThey're especially useful if you need to deal with AC from time to time and your schmick DC electronic load renders useless. I tended to use small halogen bulbs, but one learns quickly that they tend to get quite hot quite quickly and in the middle of experimentation it's surprisingly easy to forget that this tiny piece of glass has been glowing white and dissipating 10W few seconds ago. If someone deals with audio stuff then 4 or 8 ohm beefy non-inductive power resistors will serve dual role.

author: dimkasta
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2017, 08:03:05 pm
content: And of course MANY 3mm screws (plastic and metal), nuts, washers, standoffs, and spacers.Mica insulators for TO220 or whatever package you like usingFuses and fuse holdersBattery clipscrimp connectors and a press

author: Creative
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 12:52:17 am
content: Here is how I spent momey on my electronics lab. When i design a circuit and I plan to bread board it (as opposed to the dead bug method) I use 1/2 watt resistors even if the power allows for a safety margin with a 1/4 watt equivalent because they make a better electrical connection. If i decided to make a permanent version I will go back to the 1/4 watt power rated resistors.I store the 1/4 and 1/2 watt resistors of the same value in same drawer of my collection. I also use pegboard hooks and 10 compartment plastic boxes to store parts. These boxes have a plastic hook for vertical mounting and label the side of the box with a general description of what is in the box. I store switches, capacitors, bipolar transistors and other electromechanical parts in them I also have ESD safe plastic storage boxes storing jfets, micro controllers, and other static sensitive parts. I use a earth grounded wrist strap when working with esd parts on my grounded work mat. These small parts boxes are nice because they do not take up much room on the bench and they easily hang out of the way

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 04:51:12 am
content: QuoteThe end game, imo, is a heatsealer. Polyethyne is great. U can size down the bags that digikey sends u, just big nuff to hold the entire part number and such. Metallic bags are extra special... u can partition them into multiple sections, and they dont fall apart. I will cut the end with a small incision to take out the cut tape or loose parts, and seal the end back up with soldering iron when done.

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 11:26:53 am
content: A heatsealer, i have the nichrome wire.. Any chance you could post a photo of how you made yours?Also, how do you stop the plastic from sticking to the wire?

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2017, 02:35:59 pm
content: Quote from: Cliff Matthews on June 08, 2017, 11:26:53 amNormal heatsealers for bags use some sort of teflon tape over the heatingwireLoads of cheap "impulse sealers" on ebay

author: CharlieWorton
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2017, 04:18:28 am
content: For new parts, AliExpress or BangGood are both good sources. I have more success (lower prices, better selection) with AliExpress. Both companies are equally reputable, I've never had a problem with either. For used stuff, run a free ad in a local advertiser offering free pickup and disposal of unwanted electronics - old computers, printers, whatever. There are decent stepper motors in some printers, the power supplies in old computers still work well (usually). If you have more time than money, this can be a decent way to acquire some unusual stuff. In addition, you might be able to repair and sell some broken electronics, if you're so inclined.

author: brainwash
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2017, 10:34:02 pm
content: Not sure if this is new, it was probably discussed above, but stockpiling needs an organised approach:- stockpile base components (capacitors, resistors, LM324, 74*, 555, resonators, fuses, SMD 0805, ....)- do not stockpile 'best and greatest' components. That includes any ARM chip, any PIC chip, ADCs, FPGAs, ...- stockpile connectors - they are likely to be needed at any time: USB, mini-USB, micro-USB male, USB cables, Sub-9, ...- stockpile wires - any size, any number of conductors under the insulation, any color (preferably all, including dual-color)- stockpile base logic: breadboards, Arduino Uno , Digistamp , BT, ESP8266The above would let you fix a lot of issues if you have broken device. It will also let you prototype almost any idea.Avoid buying into the latest and greatest, unless you are a technical head at some company. Most of the time, the things you will know how to use will be the ones that are the cheapest and people tend to use the most (ATMega328, ESP8266).I have a pile of TI and Microchip stuff that I've rarely used. At least TI can be used with Energia, but most of the times you want to fail fast and fail often. This means you don't want to be wasting 1-2 days to get a chip working only to prove that your idea is wrong.Aside from that, a good digital scope (or a mediocre analog one and a mediocre digital one) will get you far. You'll use the multimeter a lot more than those. You'll use your soldering station more. You'll use clips and clamps and wires even more. You'll use a digital analyzer, a hot-air station and signal generator a few times per year, at most. That is, considering your question. So plan your stockpile according to that.

author: schmitt trigger
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2017, 12:35:59 am
content: This thread is loooong, and I essentially skimmed thru it.But I think relays have not been mentioned. If you would like to control lights, motors, etc., ina safe and straightforwardmanner, relays are the way to go.Get 5v-coil relays for the smaller sizes, and 12v-coil relays for the larger sizes.From time to time you will find that your regulator, transistor, Triac, etc are overheating. Get some small TO220 heatsinks. It is surprising how much more power you can dissipate from a device with even a small heatsink, as compared to stand alone.

author: brainwash
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2017, 12:47:34 am
content: Cheap relays can be found from the scrapyard, you can get at least 10 for 1$. Some of them are timing relays (for example diesel heater) so not so easy to use. Anyway, most of the manufacturers these days have went the MOSFET way, and for a good reason: the old relays are both unreliable and fail in an uncontrolled way.Still the cheapest and simplest way to get DPDT, if you need it. But in my experience relays tend to fail both randomly and in strange ways (i.e. one contact working 90% of the time).

author: Jellysfish
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 17, 2017, 05:34:57 pm
content: My local melvac sometimes sells general electronics in a grab bag--slightly more expensive than online but at least these parts are more likely to be new

author: TheDane
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2017, 07:22:27 am
content: Recycling old equipment is also a nice way to get components.Instead of 'throwing' out old/broken stuff, I usually keep it around for scraps - and when I need something I don't have already in my assortments - I will take a look at the old junk, and surprisingly I often find what I am looking for.If I can solder it in, I can solder it out

author: kobaz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 25, 2017, 05:07:42 pm
content: Adding a question to the pool.For capacitors and the like I get the importance of quality. It's good to avoid the exploding type, etc.Things like transistors. How important is it to get high quality transistors from known brands?For example if I wanted a PNP 2N3906:https://www.digikey.com/products/en/discrete-semiconductor-products/transistors-bipolar-bjt-single/276?k=2N3906&k=&pkeyword=2N3906&v=497&pv69=80&mnonly=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=500These are 44 cents each USD. Versus:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y49GB3FI can get 675 transistors at 2 cents each on amazon. Are they going to catch my bench on fire? Are they going to produce excessive noise? Anyone familiar with these?

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2017, 10:24:18 pm
content: Quote from: kobaz on September 25, 2017, 05:07:42 pm3904/3906's can be 2 cents each if you buy in bulk/know where to look.http://www.newark.com/micro-commercial-components/2n3906-ap/bjt-pnp-40vdc-to-92/dp/69R6840The SMT versions can be one cent each.http://www.newark.com/on-semiconductor/mmbt3906lt3g/bipolar-transistor-pnp-40v-sot/dp/98H0752I would think the people building kits are getting components from sources that are buying in huge quantities. The Chinese seem to do it that way (small guys knowing a big guy and getting in on orders so they can get big guy prices for kits to sell on eBay, etc.). All the other transistors offered, I don't know, not much is as cheap as a 3904/3906.

author: TheUnnamedNewbie
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2017, 04:10:26 pm
content: Quote from: kobaz on September 25, 2017, 05:07:42 pmTo be honest, that seems like a very high price for a that transistor. Just a quick search on Farnell shows me that I can get them for a few cents each. I got most of my small-signal transistors for breadboarding from auction sales, but I know that you can order from farnell or RS here through the local component store or the local university. I wouldn't suggest getting unknown devices - when you are prototyping and debugging a circuit, the last thing you need is a shady transistor that might cause the problem.

author: adras
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2017, 01:48:59 pm
content: As a start I would buy everything in China. Of course it takes some time to arrive. But if you buy everything at once, after two weeks the first packages arrive. And almost everytime you come home there's a new surprise package waiting for you. When you're done with prototyping and start with final production it makes sense to buy brand components.To get started I suggest an Arduino kit, these kits have a lot of stuff. IR-Sensors, gyro sensors, more sensors, a breadboard, resistors etc, basically everything you need for a first small project.Next comes the "Assorted XXX" search term. Great to get a stock of all kinds of resistors, diodes, capacitors etcBreadboard jumper cables, you can never have enough of them, pretty cheapWire, from AWG? to AWG? from small to big - I'm always buying the wrong ones, even after looking at the datasheetMaybe a cheap oscilloscope kit and a signal generator. Don't expect too much, but it's a startOf course a soldering Iron and solder. And pretty important: Solder flux paste, makes soldering way more easy. I use a Rosin based flux since it's more healthy than some other stuff. I had one which may give you cancer, makes you impotent, and other stuff so I through it away right after opening the package.One of those cutting mats. Great to save your bench from damage.Maybe one of those ESD armbands, although I never managed to fry anything yet. But every professional considers those as mandatoryI think that's all you need to start, everything else can be bought on demand.The header of the next links is the search term I used, and the link is what the result may look like.Arduino kithttp://www.ebay.com/itm/ULTIMATE-UNO-R3-Starter-Kit-for-Arduino-Keypad-RTC-1602LCD-Servo-Motor-Gas-Relay-/152145710940?epid=730831715&hash=item236c974f5c:g:tAUAAOSwhQhY7sYKAssorted Resistorshttp://www.ebay.com/itm/300x-30-Values-1-4W-1-Metal-Film-Resistors-Assorted-Resistance-Kit-Set-New-/112341051881?epid=735028540&hash=item1a280c69e9:g:gE4AAOSw4GVYJYyOAssorted Capacitorshttp://www.ebay.com/itm/60pcs-12-Values-1uF-470uF-Assorted-Electrolytic-Capacitor-Assortment-Kit-Radial-/192063668173?epid=1879167269&hash=item2cb7e2ffcd:g:D9oAAOSw5cNYYPFBAssorted XXX is a great way to get the common parts, resitors, diodes, capacitors etc. Very cheap. Make sure there are values on the paper that holds resistors, otherwise you have to look at each color code to sort them which is a huge pain to me.Breadboardhttps://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=assorted+capacitors&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xbreadbord.TRS0&_nkw=breadbord&_sacat=0breadboard jumperhttps://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=breadbord&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xbreadbord+jumper.TRS1&_nkw=breadbord+jumper&_sacat=0oscilloscope kithttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Assembled-DSO138-2-4-TFT-Digital-Oscilloscope-Kits-DIY-Parts-1Msps-Probe-/162200576235?var=&hash=item25c3e860eb:g:r7wAAOSw2gxYuMrUDSO 138 cheap oscilloscope, better than nothing. As a kit a very good practice for SMD solderingsignal generator kithttps://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=oscilloscope+kit&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsignal+generator+kit.TRS0&_nkw=signal+generator+kit&_sacat=0cheap as the oscilloscope, better than nothing. There are apps for your smartphone as wellSoldering ironI've got a cheap chinese one. It's still working, and has a temperature control, awesome! Not imported, bought in Germany so I have warranty.I'd also pick up some Mosfets. Are these some cheap "general purpose" high current Mosfets?IRF9540N - P-Channelhttps://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irf9540n.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a401535611caa31dc6FQP30N06L - N-Channelhttp://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/FQP30N06L.pdfRFP30N06LE - N-Channelhttp://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/RFP30N06LE.pdf

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2017, 05:12:13 pm
content: I buy a lot of parts from China, you can get some good stuff but you have to be careful. Some of it is junk, especially older or more exotic parts are often counterfeit. A part that is fake or substandard can lead to great frustration when a project doesn't work.

author: Old Don
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2017, 07:30:45 pm
content: If as you have stated taxes are high in Norway, a way to get cheap parts is to get free broken electronics stuff. Printers, dead computers and other circuit boards obtained from local sources that in many cases are glad to get rid of their E waste since they may have to pay to have it recycled. Strip them for their parts. A cheap hot air gun can strip a board quickly. Sensors and motors from printers can be used for robots. Better than a hot air gun is to invest in a hot air rework station for future BGA circuit work and with/without a large nozzle it with also strip a board. Also, check with local companies and they might have inventory reduction sales of components that they no long need.

author: VEGETA
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2017, 05:34:42 am
content: For me I bought stuff from Aliexpress but it is slow which is acceptable for the price. One thing I like about banggood is that they have warehouses for their stuff, so they are not just a frontend like Aliexpress.One great benefit of that is that you get all your parts together, unlike Aliexpress where you get them one by one because they are from different sellers.BTW, how do you sort your components and store them at the bench?I need a good and cheap way to do it, since I live in Jordan and buying heavy storage tools is pricey.

author: Awesome14
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2017, 07:02:19 pm
content: I'd build your stock slowly. I only say that because building a stock of everything you might need is a naive dream. However, one of the least time consuming means to build a stock is from salvaged PCBs using a solder pot:

author: asmi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2017, 02:04:56 am
content: I tend to stockpile only parts that I use in many projects (things like connector strips, LEDs of different colors), and I accumulated many "one extra" parts, which came from following my rule of thumb (buy the amount of parts you need + 1 in case you mess something up). Also since buying powered vacuum pickup, reflow oven and stereo microscope I started using a lot of 0402 passives, so I slowly build up an inventory of them as they are very cheap if you buy them in reels - a 10K reel of 1% 0402 resistors is 10 CAD for almost all values on Mouser, 0402 caps are a bit more expensive, but in many cases you can find 10K reel for 30-40 CAD per reel), and a single reel will last till the end of times for me, and I don't have to worry about bumping one or two off my work table during assembly. Reels are very easy to store too - just put them on a metal rod of some kind.Basically now whenever I need a value I still don't have, I buy a reel of that value in 0402 package unless any of this is true:- the passive in question is a resistor which need to dissipate more power than 0402 package can handle- I know for fact that I will have to de-solder and re-solder this part several times (for example voltage-setting resistors for DC-DC converters). In this case I use 0805 parts because most manufacturers put value label of them - so I can later easily identify values (0402 and most of 0603 parts don't have any labels)- the component with that value actually exists in 0402 package - this is for caps, which have limits on capacitance and voltage

author: iontodirel
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 09:16:52 am
content: I personally recommend buying/stocking on a need basis only, don't get something if you don't think you'll need, and categorize components per projects; get components for multiple projects, IMHO you can wait a week for parts from digikey if you want to experiment with something new or work on a new project

author: Mr. Scram
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2017, 12:58:31 pm
content: Quote from: iontodirel on October 19, 2017, 09:16:52 amI've poured some money into a basic collection of classic jellybean parts and components. It has reached the point where I can build a PoC for most ideas with what's around. They are generally not the best performing parts for the job, but they will keep me entertained until I can draw up a schematic and order "real" parts.

author: paulca
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2017, 08:28:15 am
content: Interesting thread.Different hobby, but in the radio controlled space I was in for a few years I found over-buying parts in advance caused issues. I would order stuff, sometimes in bulk, say buying 32 AA NiMh cells, then I discovered with a voltage regulator I could use much more convenient LiPos for that application, so I bought a bunch of pairs of those each and never used the NiMhs ever again. I still have a bunch of 2000mAh AA cells around, but they aren't even useful for clocks or TV remotes due to their lower 1.2 voltage and high dissipation they only last a few months.The other issue with over stocking is that stock management comes into play. You order a whole assortment of stuff, use about 10% of it, then forget exactly what the other 90% was. 6 months down the road you need a particular component, either don't remember you have some or don't remember where exactly they would be and end up ordering more. Of course after you hit "Buy Now" at checkout you remember where the stock pile is. Battery connectors were an example. I think I ordered bags of bullet connectors three times and now have about 200 of them. Being meticulous about organising things into labelled parts trays and boxes would help, but that's not me.Shipping cost tends to come into play and aggravate this. If you are ordering 2 x 555 timer chips the postage is probably more than the chips by an order of magnitude. You get a better price if you order 10 of them. So you spend an evening "magpie-ing" around the online store going "one of them, two of those, three of that thing" to lower the differential between cost and shipping. Then you realise if you order a few more expensive things you get free shipping. You spend £100 randomly. The stuff arrives, you flick through it and throw it in a box, happy with yourself. You don't use much of it for 6 months and then have no idea what you actually have or where you put it all. So you order it again.I have plastic tubs and boxes full of RC electrical parts, high amp connectors, low amp JSTs, servo adaptors, battery charge adaptors and splitters, load testers, volt/ammeters, discharge loads, wall warts, you name it. Most of it still in the plastic bags they came in.Case in hand.... my ExTech multimeter hasn't arrived yet. I did some bread boarding yesterday, building logic gates from transistors, figured I must have a volt/amp meter somewhere for RC stuff, but couldn't find anything after an hour going through boxes of stuff.... I'm sure it's there somewhere though..... back to LEDs, trial and error, and screwing around with my phone camera on zoom to read resistor values. Still managed to successfully build, ANDs, ORs, NOTs etc. Though I nearly cooked a few transistors and without a multi-meter couldn't tell that I was driving the full power supply current though the base of the NPN. No NPNs died though.Yet, I don't learn my lesson. I'm currently looking at assorted part kits. Like a 2600 piece resistor pack. 1000 piece cap pack and still trying to find a sensible assorted pack of logic ICs.

author: schenkzoola
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 12, 2017, 11:17:50 pm
content: I would recommend creating an inventory database of your IC's and more expensive passives. This can be done with a simple spreadsheet, or a service like partsbox.io. I find this useful if I am wanting to do a proof of concept, and want to quickly figure out if I have everything I need.If you start building a commercial project, you will find that the inventory management skills you have developed on the way are invaluable.

author: daedalux
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2018, 09:27:22 pm
content: In my experience you tend to stock anything you see use for and can get cheap, but that is not very useful.What I've found useful to have around is:- THT resistors kit in abundance. They are useful even to replace smd ones if needed. Higher power than 1/4W you'll have to stock some.- Capacitor kits. In particular I've found that 1000uF 16V or 35V is very useful for fixing stuff. 100uF and 10uF also tend to appear a lot in designs. 100nF ceramics is a standard DC bypass device that you may buy 1000 units of.- ICs. The less you have better. You'll never stock enough for fixing stuff. So have 5V 8V 12V 78 regulators, LM324, LM358 and some other op amp and not much else until you know that you need it. Don't stock discrete logic, limit to 74HC00N for example for tinkering- Have the programable thing you like in abundance. All the same. I like chinese arduino nanos, they have all the peripherals on them and are the cheapest thing.- Transistors. The most useful is 2N3904 for low power and below about 150Mhz. For medium power IRF510 IRF520 IRF540 mosfets that can even be used in some rf devices and easily fix some stuff. Have also small jfets because they tend to be similar and break easily.-Have what you break or lose even if is not electronic, lots of fuses and small screws, insulators, solder tips, power resistors that you see on your devices.-Have magnet wire and cores, and whenever you need a coil you can make your own (seldom), the magnet wire will be more useful for fixing PCBs.

author: FrankE
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2018, 08:27:16 pm
content: I can't move in the house for components and things for repairI keep finding reels of hook up wire, barely used. A single reel would have done, some of that rainbow ribbon they sell to arduino tinkerers and whatever I can rip out of eWaste people put out in the street for disposal.ICs, nah, they can go out of favour or simply won't get used. JIT for common stuff like that.Bags of SMD samples and some through hole caps have been the most useful things to keep.If I can't get schematics for big ticket items and they make use obscure parts it's handy to get spares of things like ASICs obscure transistors and FETs while it's still a production item. Manage the obsolescence.I'd rather spend money on good kit, tools optics and have decent consumables than concern myself with waiting over a weekend for a part. If one's offering a commercial service of repairing a brand of something eg a brand of mobile telephone then there's more sense in stocking parts for turnaround and maintaining workflow.There'll be as many Availability philosophies as there are people and circumstances though, so each to their own.I bought 8 boxes of Jacob's biscuits for cheese (800g) in early January on sale, just for the boxes for components. I've eaten so much cheese as a consequence I have reflux. Oh, the sacrifices.

author: whoKnows
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 24, 2018, 08:47:36 pm
content: easiest thing is to unsolder basically everything from every board you get....

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2018, 07:38:59 pm
content: I do, contrary to my own advise, buy from China often. But I sometimes end up with parts that aren't usable. One example is a 50 ohm BNC terminator. Ebay seller had this bag of terminators for price less than one would cost from Digikey, so I bought 20. Connection and performance is iffy, measured by me, so I took my hacksaw and found out why.Inside was a regular 1/4 watt register. The ground side is not soldered anywhere but wire simply folded back and forced into a heatsink look like area.Put it on a return bridge and wiggle.... or just let it sit. I can see reflection changing wildly. Basically unusable.So I have a reservation in buying large quantity from unknown sellers. (basically all China sellers) What's critical, I buy from Digikey. Imagine if I bought 100 bag of these?

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2018, 04:32:02 am
content: Quote from: tkamiya on June 06, 2018, 07:38:59 pmI agree What I do on Aliexpresss is sort on "Orders" and pick the seller with the most orders. I think this helps

author: HB9EVI
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2018, 07:12:21 pm
content: Isn't actually the worst thing in piling up tons of compenents the fact, that whenever you have an idea and want start from the scratch a new project, you realize, that this is missing and that is missing - and the more often that happens, the more you start thinking, it might actually be a good idea to have a proper stockage of "&+°?$.So there you go, starting to buy the complete set of E24 1% resistors in through hole and today in SMD too, you buy caps in ceramic, foil and electrolyte, every kind of bjt and fets, opamps, logics, mcus and like me RF parts too. In the end you have the lab full with drawer compartments and boxes - and, with the next brilliant idea you sit down at the bench and realize, that half of the needed components are missing.It simply never ends

author: Pirateguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2018, 12:01:07 pm
content: i like to buy what i need in greater numbers then i need it cuz once i have some experience usinga component, that's what ill likely try to use first in future experiments.also i find i kind of have 2 modes of shopping:i either buy components with a vague idea of what i need, for the purpose of experimenting, and with an eye on future projects.meaning i look for versatile things that if it doesn't work for my intended purpose, are likely to be useful somewhere else.or i have finished some project and i buy a very specific list of components to build the final version.as a result i now have a fair selection of stuff to experiment with, and the only stuff i have now that i seem unlikelyto use is a bunch of 74 series logic i once bought for B.E.A.M. robotics, which i lost interest in a while ago.(i could never think of anything interesting i might make a robot do)anyway what i really wanted to say is:NOWis the time to get cheap crap from china off ebay and amazon etc.with trump putting pressure on china and trying to stop them from plagiarizing n stuff,it is quite possible that chinese electronics are going to stop being so cheap in the near future.i dunno much about politics and the economy n stuff, but maybe we need to bet getting what we canwhile the gettin's hot?

author: HB9EVI
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2018, 12:19:14 pm
content: Well, to be precise - there isn't only crap coming from China; there are very well good deals; e.g. I don't see a reason why to pay 4 CHF for 100 metal film resistors, if can buy the same amount for under one buck in China; the same goes for jellybean components like BC550, NE5532, LM336 a.s.o.Surely watch out about different deals. I recently got 10pcs. AD8066, which turned out to be clearly fake, absolute trash; on the other side I already bought several AD DDS chips on that way, which all fulfilled specs.I don't expect too much change on the market, since, let's face it pretty much every company is manufacturing in China; my recently ordered Dell notebook, ordered directly at Dell CH but shipped from China.Long years plenty of workers in the Americas and Europe got to hear to not be competitive enough with the chinese - so there we are now, there will be no rollback of that trend, whatever any politician in those countries is telling now - let's not forget - it is Corporate America and Corporate Europe making the essential political decisions - not us, nor the politicians we vote for - they just do what corporate lobbyists tell them.

author: Pirateguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2018, 04:37:41 am
content: well i say 'crap' lovinglyas for politics, 2 years ago i would have agreed, but something is happening right nowand i am not placing any bets.

author: HB9EVI
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2018, 06:48:29 am
content: Well, we all don't know in the end...for the first I'm much more bothered by the new swiss VAT-regulation starting 01/01/2019 reducing the tax-free import limit from 65CHF to 5CHF goods value only.That wouldn't really be a big deal since we just have a VAT of 7,7% - the real deal is Swiss Post charging incredible high customs handling fees on top of the VAT - that really sucks!So right now I'm vigorously stocking up piles before 2019 arrives

author: AngraMelo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2018, 12:00:27 pm
content: Reading you guys "talk" and remembering the days I used to live in the US it makes perfect sense.Now that I live in Brazil it is border line ridiculous.There are NO Digikey/Mouser type of sellers here. Forget about the "new" or high end stuff. If you want that you will need to order from the US and pay an INSANE shipping cost and nearly twice the price of your order in taxes.Now for the fun part. The Chinese do not offer free shipping for Brazil, even worse, 90% of the sellers stack the shipping price for each item. For ex: Seller X sells 7805 and charges 10.50 for shipping. If you want their 7805 and the 317`s you will pay the price of the goods PLUS 10.50 PLUS 10.50 even though they are sending on a single package.You guys complain about ebay being flooded with fake parts? Our eBay (mercadolivre) is ONLY fake parts.We have NO factories manufacturing semi conductors so everything is importedThe mail service in Brazil charges a standard value OVER the shipping you already paid. So for every package that comes through the mail (international ones) you pay the regular shipping fee PLUS around $4 (R$15 our currency is called Real) PER package.Also, they do not alert you that you have a package so you have to manually input the tracking on their website, hope they can track it, then keep looking to see when it arrives here, after that wait for them to tell you to pay their fee only THEN it gets sent to you home. If you dont keep an eye, after 30 days they send it back to the sender and no one is the wiser.OkAfter all this BSThis is what I do:Resistors and electro caps are easy to get. So I order plenty.Now I make a list of the most used semiconductors.I buy lots of them from China from the few sellers that dont want to rip me off with the shipping fees.Every month I start making a list of things to buy and add them to the cart on Aliexpress.Pull the trigger at the beginning of the next monthSo then I wait 2 monthsTo fix the things I bought the parts for.Crazy, isnt it?

author: enjoy.cowboy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2018, 01:38:17 pm
content: brazillian here, its very hard to get stuff down here in the jungle. The scanning fee is only for packages declared over 50USD, so I keep my orders below that. Also digikey delivers here, i just have no idea about the shipping and i think taxing would be pretty much a lucky dip. So i buy in bulk, 50 dollarydoos at a time. It's christmas year round! I'm starting my inventory by just typing "(component name) kit" into aliexpress and sifting through stuff. I just took delivery this morning of my first few packagings (its a christmas miracle!). Also helps to be a bit of a vulture and get stuff from old electronics, I asked people to hold back on chucking some stuff in the bin and give them to me instead

author: queennikki1972
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2019, 07:25:06 pm
content: I started out as a beginner buying 3mm led kit, 5mm led kit 1/2 watt resistor kit, 1/4 watt resistor kit, small electrolytic kit, cermanic caps kit, zener kit, 1 package of (100x) 1n418, a few lm7812 and a few 7805, a few ne555 timers, lm358,lm386,4017, lm324, ua741, 8 pin dip socket, 14 pin dip socket, 16 pin dip socket nylon stand offs, brass standoffs, heat sinks kit i made myself, heat shrink kit, dupount connectors kit, header pin kit, breadboard jumper wire kit, rectifier diode kit 1n4001-7. various transistors i bought in sets of 100.I have a long skinny plastic bin for solder pulls(used parts i pulled).I store all motors, transformers, and larger items in plastic bags in a box under my bench. I literally have 1 quart size bag of every color wire i have pulled from scraps separated by color.When I buy components i always by 100 or more. When I replace resistors etc, i buy 100 or more of that value. Same with leds or anything else small. Larger stuff like transformers i usually only buy one or two. Large caps i buy about 4 or so of each. Case fans, fuses etc about 4-6 of each. I 3D print most of my storage boxes, but i have found floppy disk boxes and recipe card boxes from goodwill useful as well.

author: boffin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 27, 2019, 10:26:56 pm
content: Quote from: queennikki1972 on May 10, 2019, 07:25:06 pmI'm a huge fan of cardboard bin boxes. Available from any warehouse supply/shipping company for little money. Available in standard sizes, fit easily onto cheap shelving, and a big flat surface to put labels or just write on.

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2019, 10:35:51 pm
content: Quote from: boffin on August 27, 2019, 10:26:56 pmI have many hundreds of those keeping my mini-factory organized. Very low cost. Very effective.

author: Fredled
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 20, 2019, 08:40:31 pm
content: Quote from: HB9EVI on July 20, 2018, 07:12:21 pmAlways buy your components as you go. 90% of projects can be done with only five different values of resistor and three different values of capacitors. If you need something special, just buy it. Then you get exactely what you need.Yet, it's a good idea to buy by 100 (or at least by 10 for expensive stuffs) because you tend to use the same things again and again. But there is no "to have" list because each developer has its own needs.One time I bought 500 THT leds on aliexpress for $3 or something, just to realize that I will use only SMD leds...It's impossible to start a new project and already have everything in your drawers. But it's very easy to fill them with things you never use.

author: enjoy.cowboy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2019, 09:12:42 am
content: Quote from: Fredled on September 20, 2019, 08:40:31 pmObviously you cant have everything, unless you set up shop in a digikey warehouse. But you can more or less cover your bases: Signal transistors (bjt and fet), power transistors, e24 1/4W resistors and capacitors, lots of wires, a handful of opamps and a handful of 74 series chips, some 555s, a big hammer, some jellybean regulators (7805s, LM317s), fast diodes (1n4148 and the like) and bulky diodes (1n4001). This ought to get you started at least to the point you realize you need something specific.

author: revscott
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 02, 2019, 02:46:03 pm
content: A recent change in my life has made it impossible for me to keep my electronics hobby going (also my cigar box guitar hobby). Therefore, I'm getting rid of my stuff. I'm not looking for money for the stuff, I just want it to go to a good home. The stuff I have isn't the greatest, but it's too good to just throw out. Below is a general list of things I'm getting rid of. If you are interested I can send images. If you pay postage it's yours. Items: Wooden project boxes, tin boxes (various sizes and shapes), cigar boxes, metal enclosures (used), a few motors of various kinds, a few transformers, various computer fans, lots and lots of speakers (tiny to large) a few vintage table radios, a few vintage car radios, a variac, a few variable power supplies, power supplies from used equipment, a vintage metal detector, meters/multimeters, magnets, lenses, cables, a BUNCH of electronic components (new/used), a few electronic books, capacitance substitution box, resistance substation box, tube oscilloscope, through-hole boards for harvesting components, wire, and some hand tools. Email me if you are interested in any of this. I'm boxing things up these next few weeks. I'm serious, it's all free, but I can't afford to pay shipping.

author: Teno
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 12, 2019, 08:16:09 pm
content: I'm facing the same issue, Argentina economy forced me to live in a single room apartment, and I'm moving my electronics, in boxes, to a place to rest, until new notice.I hate this.Cheers.

author: Wallace Gasiewicz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2019, 06:33:36 pm
content: About storage of parts...If you expect lots of small parts some people store them in loose leaf binders. You can buy the sheets with pockets on e bay.But the Significant Other has a better suggestion:Get some plastic sheet protectors and a We R Memory Keepers FUSE kit.This is a scrapbook company. The Fuse tips are rotary tips that function like a cutter or welder on a solder gun like handle. Look it up on Google, Plenty of videos. You can make all sorts of different size pockets for SMD type parts. You can make the pockets bit enough to contain a readable label. You can have several binders on a shelf, like an encyclopedia of parts. You can make the sleeve fit the part you have.This is nice for small parts. Especially a length of SMD parts in their tape.I actually just ordered the roller tips and used a machine tool tap to fit them to an adjustable soldering iron.For larger thru hole parts I like old card file boxes with the same size envelopes instead of cards..If you try to get plastic bin type boxes they will eventually force you out of your house...I already have too many....Advice from others here is good about just getting a assortment of resistors and caps to start with.. however I do not know if you need SMD or thru hole partsWally KC9INK

author: rvalente
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2019, 03:18:34 pm
content: For 1206 and 0805 (i do not use 0603 for prototypes) i find the strips a pain, so I store them in a 3 or 5ml eppendorf tube, label and sorted every decade in a parts box. Very simple and easy.

author: dbctronic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2020, 08:31:49 pm
content: Tayda:Yup, I've ordered from Tayda several times and have always been happy, except for the time I tried to find a working XR2206 waveform generator (**DON'T BUY THEM ANYWHERE!! All the ones left are defective Chinese knockoffs with a totally garbage sine wave output! This includes those little WFG kits with the bright red circuit board!***). But I bought them from several other places and they were all bad. Oh well, nobody's perfect...Yeah-- 1% resistors for 1-2 cents, gobs of caps for 1-5 cents, multipole rotary switches for an incredible 89 cents, superbright LEDs for pennies, pots, semiconductors... That's where I got my jellybean inventory going when I got back into electronics.Jameco:One step up from jellybean stock is stuff for semipermanent assembly and making custom shop equipment. For that, Jameco has a couple of hundred types of power supplies for US$ 2-15, which I will be ordering soon for a few immediate projects plus future ones. They are SMPS with maybe 100-200mV ripple, so output filter caps (Tayda - 10,000 uF 16V - US$ 0.49) are a good grab too. I'm getting the Jameco 5V 10A supply (US$ 14.30) for an adjustable constant current source. Rectifiers, filter caps, and LDO regulators are all easy to get, but I'm gettingsickof shopping/scrounging for stepdown transformers!!Mouser:Mouser is the first place I look when something I want is discontinued at DIGIKEY-1-ND. They seem to hang onto some stuff a little longer, and have a far larger inventory than the hobby/surplus places like Tayda, who have what they can get their hands on. Just wish they'd replace their gibberish part numbering system!!

author: Codealot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 28, 2020, 04:39:45 am
content: What ICs would you suggest for an average hobbyist? My current list includes the following: amps, timers, opamps, oscillators, voltage regulators, boolean logic.Anything you'd suggest to add?

author: dbctronic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2020, 02:06:25 pm
content: It sounds like you have some idea what jellybean parts to start with. As many others have said here (and I agree), there's no better way to find out what to buy than to get yourself thoroughly stuck in a circuit design or modification problem, and buy stuff that you think will help you prototype, test, and make that circuit. Whether you are designing from scratch or adapting circuit designs you find online, let wise shopping be your guide. It really works, if you make a science of it.Need a cheap, accurate frequency to voltage converter? The NJM4151 works... up to 10 kHz. Hmmm... a CD4024 binary ripple counter can reduce 800 kHz down to 6.25 kHz. Another one, or a dual flipflop, extends that range up to a few MHz. You might end up making yourself a little frequency divider on a piece of protoboard and keep it handy for similar projects, so buy several. That reminds me... getting low on 1 uF supply bypass capacitors... Need a MAX038 waveform generator? Oh, sorry, no longer available except on scary eBay... Update that shopping list.Solving your problem causes you to go parts shopping. The big distributors make it as easy as it can be to shop for parts, discover new ones you didn't know existed, and most importantly,see what's currently available and what has become obsolete! This process makes many valuable additions to your shopping list, as well as deletions. And of course, keep track of the total order cost. That makes you thinkveryhard about what to buy, which forces you to investigate several solutions to the original problem. When posting questions on this forum, you will make interesting posts that get responses. Your shopping list will make you find those solution ideas.Download datasheets foreverypart you are interested in. Your next project design will have fewer nasty surprises. There is just too much to read, and wise shopping helps you focus on which component parameters you need to learn next. Your next round of jellybean part shopping will be well tailored to your needs.Happy wise shopping!

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2020, 02:13:39 pm
content: Quote from: Codealot on January 28, 2020, 04:39:45 amJust NE555, a few jelly bean OPamps and some LM78xx/79xx. Any other IC only when needed. Otherwise you'd waste money on ICs which you never will use possibly.

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2020, 10:14:52 pm
content: Quote from: Codealot on January 28, 2020, 04:39:45 amdepends on what you want to do? Analog, digital, microprocessor, robotics, etc

author: Codealot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 29, 2020, 05:26:59 pm
content: Quote from: eugenenine on January 28, 2020, 10:14:52 pmMostly interested in robots and FPGA.

author: Codealot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 10, 2020, 05:35:40 am
content: Quote from: dbctronic on January 26, 2020, 08:31:49 pmWhat about these ones?https://www.amazon.com/LM2596-Converter-3-0-40V-1-5-35V-Supply/dp/B07RT95J4Q/

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2020, 01:58:57 pm
content: Quote from: Codealot on January 29, 2020, 05:26:59 pmSo you might not need any amps, timers, opamps, oscillators from your list. You may want to focus more on microcontrollers, motor drivers, etc

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2020, 11:25:40 am
content: Quote from: Codealot on January 29, 2020, 05:26:59 pmDon't buy anything IC wise, until you have a project to pursue. The only other thing worth buying, without a specific project at hand, is a microprocessor, possibly a development board, to learn programming on. When getting started it is very easy to waste money on things with little immediate use. You can easily blow enough money on IC's to buy a very good multimeter and then not use them (at least not right away).Discretes are a bit different in my opinion. Resistors, diodes, capacitors, and such are not bad to have in bulk as long as they are in common values. Even here you have to be careful as capacitors will age and can be expensive if you don't need them. So look to caps commonly used for bypass and in the more reliable types.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2020, 11:58:58 am
content: A short introduction: I'm involved in various hobbies from wood working, to machining, to electronics and over the years have developed some opinions on "parts". This prompted me to respond to the original posters question/subject. So here it is:Don't waste your money on building up a stockpile right at the beginning, it just wastes money! Buy stuff to get started of course, and buy in reasonable quantities. However don't shell out money for expensive parts you don't have an immediate need for. Blowing ones budget on parts with which you have no immediate need is just foolish. Eventually the stockpile comes leading to the next issue.The second bit of advice and frankly this is learned the hard way, is to have a way to organize parts and specialty items. Actually you will need multiple "ways" due to the variety one might find in a home shop. Many of those ways have already been mentioned in this thread so no point in rehashing. But maybe what hasn't been covered well is labeling. Parts storage is no good if you can't find the parts or put them back properly. At the very least come up with a consistent way to label your bins/boxes/sleeves/jars or whatever you are using. This is frankly not something easy for my particular personality but in the end you end up with such a stockpile that you can't find things otherwise.Third for the truly organized consider and inventory system for your PC. Yes this might seem excessive to some but it can be helpful, especially if your stockpile takes up a good portion of a wall. You probably need a bit of OCD to go this route though. The only good thing here is that such software these days isn't especially difficult.When at all possible consider alternative avenues for getting materials and parts. Auctions are in fact a good source of goods as is salvage, and the used market. Paying market rates for one hobbies is sometimes very hard on the wallet. Sadly finding stores selling surplus electronics is getting harder and harder but do look for these.

author: ekchatzi
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2020, 08:12:02 am
content: I have made this mistake multiple times. There is no reason to buy any components unless you need them. Most of the time, the components just sit in a drawer and do nothing.That being said, having some basic components doesn't hurt.You can get some "collections"from Aliexpress (leds, resistor assortments, capacitor assortments, transistors, etc) in reasonable quantities for cheap pricesFor anything else, you can use Mouser or Digikey . As long as you spend more than 50$ per order, there is free shipping (In Greece, for Mouser you don't have to pay customs). So you can "batch" order components. Keep a list of components somewhere, and as soon as you get 50$ worth of things, make an order.Also, super important. NEVER buy one of anything (unless too expensive, dev kits etc). A lot of things can go wrong, which means you will need another part, or you want to use the part again in a new project. since you've used it before somewhere else

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2020, 06:25:15 pm
content: I don't bother with the allexpress or ebay stuff. for on thing you run a higher chance of fake or crap parts, but two I use assortments to add to mouser/digikey orders to make them worthwhile, they have plenty of assortment kits or you can just add 100qty of .1uF caps or 1k resistors or some LED's or something else commonly used.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2020, 01:07:06 pm
content: Quote from: ekchatzi on March 06, 2020, 08:12:02 amGenerally good adviceQuoteThis can be likened to supporting a machine shop. It pays to buy a complete set of drill bits and likewise buying a set of resistors really doesn't hurt. Similarly you don't buy specialized cutters until you need them.The only time one should buy random bulk is if you are at an auction and have an opportunity to buy at ridiculously low cost. This does happen from time to time. So if you have the opportunity always take in local going out of business auctions.QuoteThe trick here i knowing how many more than one to buy. Do you buy 10 or 100 or 1000, the answer comes with experience. It would be helpful though for a beginner to know how many resistors to buy in lots of 100 or 1000 and when not to bother. As some one above stated there are a few very common sizes to consider when it comes to resistors and capacitors.

author: boffin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 09, 2020, 03:45:10 pm
content: If you're wanting to get an initial stock, for hobbyist type stuff, the inexpensive kits on Aliexpress/ebay/etc are an OK starting point. If you're worried about quality, you can buy from a legit Chinese distributer like LCSC.For example, in small quantities, a resistor is about half a cent each US, in relatively small quantities (50s)https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Carbon-Film-Resistors_CCO-Chian-Chia-Elec-CF1-4W-1KR-5-T52_C120055.htmlBuying 50 ea of 100R, 220R, 470R, 1k, 2k2, 4k7, 10k, 22k, 47k, 100k, 220k, 470k is going to set you back all of $3As a starter hobbiest I would recommendceramic caps, unless you're doing RF stuff, you probably won't go lower values50x 0.1uf,10x: 0.01, 0.022, 0.047electrolytic caps (@25V, no point in going lower)10x: 1uF, 2.2uF, 4.7uF, 10uF, 22uF, 47uF, 100uF, 220uF, 470uF, 1000uFtransistors:10x: 2N3904s and 3906s (or 4401 / 4403) (maybe more of the NPN)10x: 2N7000 MOSFET5x: IRLB 8721 MOSFETI don't know what the total of all that would be on LCSC, but I'm guessing $20-30 tops.

author: Codealot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 14, 2020, 04:06:21 am
content: By the way, I got this assortment kit for the starters:https://www.amazon.com/Interstellar-Electronic-Assortment-Transistors-Potentiometer/dp/B07D1HVZ15Do you think I wasted my money?

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2020, 02:43:57 am
content: Quote from: Codealot on March 14, 2020, 04:06:21 amWasted Money, that is for you to determine. The good thing about this kit is that they give you counts of individual sizes of resistors. That is the good thing, the bad thing is that some of those may not be used for a long time. Like all things it depends upon where you interests goes.So while it isn't a bad kit, I would have preferred a kit that was a little heavy in resistors used for biasing diodes and such.As for being worth you money, i think the simple answer here is could you buy all of this for less? Most likely yes because it costs money to create the kits. Sometimes it is worth it to do so to avoid the hassle of DIY.

author: dbctronic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2020, 12:43:00 am
content: This thread has picked up some good posts since I was last on.If you think you will be cobbling up circuits that require precision component values, for example to make fairly accurate oscillators, get some more of the low end resistor values (say, 10 to 470 ohm). Put these in series with nominal value resistors to make precise values, which is called hand synthesis. You may also want to get some more low value capacitors to put in parallel with nominal value units, but it's not as easy to determine what values to use unless you have a capacitance meter, or the ability to measure a circuit's output and you just find trimming caps by trial and error.For further precision, I also recommend a cheap or freeware 2D CAD program for making project front panel artwork that includes custom calibrated scales for potentiometers. With these two techniques, I can get 1% accuracy using standard cheapo pots. Start with a scale that reads from 0 to 100, and mark it with desired final markings by experimenting with the pot. Redo the scale artwork to match what you get.

author: Codealot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 04, 2020, 04:05:30 am
content: Quote from: wizard69 on March 18, 2020, 02:43:57 amNot sure about that. It seems that some parts cost much more on DK or Mouser than in kits or on Ali, probably because of very high margin.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2020, 08:26:56 pm
content: Quote from: Codealot on April 04, 2020, 04:05:30 amit isn't exactly "fair" to compare a kit from China with DigiKey's mainline products. My point is you are still paying for kit box and the time it takes the vendor to assemble the kit. that might not be a bad thing depending upon what you get exactly in the kit. If you went to Ali express and purchased in bulk, which might make sense for resistors, you likely would have far more material for each dollar spent. On the flip side you might end up with far more than you will ever use.In any event I actually liked this kit because it does details exactly what you are getting and appears to avoid a lot of useless high value resistors. I'm just not sue it makes sense for everybody, I'm still a fan of buying when you need something.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2020, 08:34:25 pm
content: Quote from: Codealot on April 04, 2020, 04:05:30 amProbably because of genuine spec, in-tolerance components versus low quality or production line reject parts more like. You can't compare Ali parts with main line distributor ones.

author: Codealot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 06, 2020, 02:02:46 am
content: Quote from: Gyro on April 05, 2020, 08:34:25 pmThis may be the case for semiconductors and possibly even resistors, but no way it justifies their prices on cables and connectors.

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2020, 05:47:35 pm
content: I think my approach has been a hybrid of already mentioned strategies. One that I find particularly relaxing sometimes is salvaging....This cheapo DVD player that worked for a short time (a long time ago) before skipping around a lot...becomes...Not a huge haul, but some usable material...25Q80 spi memory chip - I read the stored BIOS using a cheap programmer. Have not yet written it and tested it thoroughly.ORPC-817 optocoupler (tested good).3 x DC motors (all tested good).s9014 GP npn (not shown but has good legs)some switches - 1/2 dozen momentaries (all good) and a nice swivel switch (for lack of a better term).usable padded feet and cables/socketsa few other miscellaneous.Much better this way than to leave it in the junk box until it is tossed.I have not yet decided on the WTP-AD01 (the optical pickup). I might have a use for it some day, but will probably keep it as until I do some more reading.

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2020, 09:02:52 pm
content: Leave the motors attached to the dvd mechanism unless you have a use for them at the moment. There are projects around those complete mechanisms and its easier to leave them together then try to match up the right one later

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2020, 09:14:35 pm
content: Quote from: eugenenine on April 12, 2020, 09:02:52 pmYeah, I thought about that, and you have a point, but I decided against it.I looked for quite a bit for projects and didn't find anything that I could really get into seriously. Lots of clocks and lots of balloon busters / burners but those are for DVD R/W drives using the laser (and some pretty sketchy projects with regard to safety).I did think about using the WTP-AD01 with a controller as a moving target (that motor can be reinstalled easily)....but I need a semi useless project like I need a ________.

author: boffin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 13, 2020, 04:11:44 pm
content: Quote from: DrG on April 12, 2020, 05:47:35 pmIs it really worth scrounging things like an 8050 transistor or 817 opto when those items are readily avail from a legit distributor (LCSC) for a few cents each (S8050 = 1.6c/ea, 817 2.9c/ea and that's in 10 lot).Keeping an old board and if you don't have the component doing a quick scrounge makes sense, but pulling apart everything in advance?? (I admit I did this when I was a young teenager, but at that point parts were 10x the price). Back in 1979 a BC107 tranistor was 15p (UK), now I can buy them for 1/10th of that price and that's not adjusting for inflation.

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2020, 05:02:48 pm
content: Quote from: boffin on April 13, 2020, 04:11:44 pmI still favor this approach as a complement for parts accrual, BUT, with certain qualifications.IOW you raise some good points. In fact, I looked up the motors and, sure enough, you can get them new for ~$1-2 US$. The memory bios chip was a surprising plus, but still probably only a buck or two. I already have a few of those IR sensors (1838 type) and so on. I have at least 25 opto's, none are 4-pin though (all older 6/8 pin - many salvaged and some high-gain darlington types that I bought). Optos are easy to test for suitability in my own projects. The switches probably will get used at some point. The cables and connectors *might* be useful - it is infuriating to need one and have little choice but to have to order it and wait.There was plenty of stuff that I left alone (most of the power supply components).Here are the general rules that I practice.I will not give in to the compulsion to scavenge everything possible (I have to admit that if it was a small board, I might have at one time, removed, everything removable).I no longer bother with scavenging the item, if it is fried or I have good reason to believe it is fried unless there are some specific things that I need AND can test out. An example is an old discarded radio that I scavenged for only the ferrite coil antenna and the telescoping antenna (both are in use right now). When I opened it up, it was clear that at least one capacitor had leaked. I don't want inexpensive components that may be flaky, even to play with.I don't (no longer bother with) scavenging the item for simple resistors and capacitors with very short leads. If that is all you can get, I understand and will not criticize.I do scavenge nuts and bolts. I frequently search for small hardware like those and I can sort them in a bin as they are being removed (in contrast to dumping a large jar and trying to find the right ones).Finally, I have to be in the right mood to scavenge and when I am, it is a relaxing activity. I have a hot air station and it is a little game (some kind of skill there) to remove items easily. I reduce the junk pile and add to the component pile.That's my story and I am sticking to it

author: El Rubio
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2020, 12:54:15 pm
content: Quote from: Codealot on April 06, 2020, 02:02:46 amI have to agree with Gyro, especially with cables and connectors. For example, Mini grabber clips for test leads. Got 10 pairs for a few bucks from China. Absolute garbage. I made 5 jumpers and destroyed one in normal use before I used it 10 times. I went to a local electronics supplier and got some Pomona mini grabbers. The were a few bucks each, but the quality is so much better. I wouldn’t be too concerned about resistors or ceramic caps from chinese discounters like Ali, but I wouldn’t buy semiconductors, or most any connectors- banana, rca, and especially RF connectors unless it is the last option.Personally, it takes so long for something shipped from China to make it here that I usually forget why I ordered it to begin with. Plus, I’m kind of pissed at them for their actions during this pandemic.

author: dbctronic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2020, 06:12:48 pm
content: I agree with El Rubio and Gyro about not buying certain parts. Connectors really can be just a complete waste of money at any price. RCA phono connectors that melt when you try ever so carefully to tack solder leads to them, shells that don't hold the connector body tightly... no thanks.And as for Chinese semiconductors, I don't buy 'em because I don't buyanysemiconductors if I can't get decent datasheets for them. American made stuff almost invariably has good ol' JEDEC standard sheets. Chinese... anything from not available, to mostly Mandarin with a gloss of English, to strangely worded and organized, and obviously incomplete. I wouldn't have them for free. I'm not an engineer trying to hold down costs on things made by the 10,000s, just an amateur who can't stand to waste time making one-offs with junk that needs debugging and patching. And that's assuming you have the datasheets you need todothe debugging. Their '2N3904' may not bequitestandard, and their datasheet may or may not tell you the differences...And yes, they have misbehaved about their little unintended export, and its world changing consequences.

author: DSE_Kid
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 10:27:50 am
content: Some great tips here! When I started as a hobbyist all my parts came from discarded electronics on the side of the road. These I work on vintage tube electronics and for the most part the only parts I'll buy new are electrolytics, everything else has a pretty decent shelf life.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 06:26:26 pm
content: I’ve watched this thread develop. Some good ideas and some humor in here.I’m not sure if my idea belongs here or in the TEA thread but I’ve come to the conclusion that for most electronics enthusiastsit’s only a matter of time until your parts strategy will be constrained by either your budget or spaceand by that time you will either have implemented a storage and inventory management system that works for you, or you will spend some time trying to figure out how to better organize your your parts, bench, and lab. Along the way your significant other and friends might wonder how you work and live in there, and they will be impressed if/when you figure it out.

author: IJL05
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 11, 2020, 12:57:47 am
content: This is very useful!https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Get-Free-Electronic-Samples/

author: dbctronic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2020, 05:00:03 pm
content: DSE_Kid is right. Old electrolytics are garbage. And just quickly testing them doesn't help much - an old tube radio that's been sitting around for decades has a distressing tendency to work for a few hours, then go south. The electrolytics grow an insulating layer that soon fails in use. If you buy old tube equipment, best idea is to just blanket replace 'em all first thing.

author: tunk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2020, 05:08:11 pm
content: GreatScott recently posted this video:

author: JLCPCB Official
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2020, 05:07:37 am
content: Hello ;Cool kit as long as you keep them well arranged, specially the small components need to be all the time sorted, usually perform a sorting task for small stocks like once per month will help you keeping all you workspace organized and this way it will not be a "wasting money"

author: VictoriaMcLean
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 19, 2020, 07:35:56 pm
content: Thanks for sharing.

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 19, 2020, 02:25:52 pm
content: http://danscloseoutsandspecialdeals.com/index.html

author: RJSV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2020, 06:51:22 pm
content: Try look at drugstore shelves for 'Pill Organizer' boxes:Picture shows weekly boxes, I use there for all sorts of tiny screws / any tiny parts (that don't have static protection issues). Some 60 compartments shown right there, plus you could make a holder frame about8 by 8 inches.Try exp with NAIL POLISH for marking each.People doing bead work use vials for storage, I think.- RJ

author: Frankenstein
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 12, 2020, 08:25:33 am
content: Hi, yes I want a a small bag of PCB common componentsAnd have to buy a million of each ... when you find out let me know I’ll keep looking and reciprocateMany thanks !!

author: pvsage
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2020, 05:52:25 pm
content: Late to this party, but I just had to chime in: a small selection of inductors is good to have on hand, especially if you plan to roll your own regulated supplies or throw in an LC filter for something powered by a dirty wall wart. I have a set I got from "the usual scumbags" at eBay for under $10 and it came in handy a couple weeks ago. (Perspex droplet barrier due to COVID, couldn't hear customers clearly - electret mic, LM386, cheap tinny loudspeaker in a shopping box, dirty 12V supply. LC filter cleaned up the power supply noise.)

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2020, 07:51:52 pm
content: Around here buying has two routes, with or without shipping.Local is with 15-20€ and China is without or minimal.(one is compensating the other)Last local order was few PIC chips when need is one but they are quite general purpose.Last China order was few thousand discretes.(China route is long)I've been around since the eighties and seen integration and Moore's law in action.Based on that I'd say that stocking something special is more a miss than a hit.Ie. I'm quite sure I still have few tubes of DIL DRAMs and UV EPROMs.I've also thrown away literally truck loads of stuff.(maybe two)Not missing much, maybe some power parts, like few bags of heatsinks.It's always irritating when you need to buy them back.EditvThose cartboard boxes are very good, you can also get them as deep as is needed and so use the whole shelf.Actually so good that you become so lazy that adding an occasional box in between makes you whine about the work load.(and we only had a few dozen shelves)Since vertical direction is usually free, something there would be nice.How about a stackable oval carousel with curtain holder rails and hooks with bags.Maybe then one could learn to keep part of the table empty.Normal revolver cabinet in small scale would also be nice.Until a shelf gets stuck and flips, and of course with loose parts instead of bagged ones.A row of hanging packages could have a hole shaped like those hanging retail stuff.So that in the middle position the bag is nicely in a row and then when sided its content is easily available.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2020, 07:41:32 am
content: Quote from: Frankenstein on September 12, 2020, 08:25:33 amYou don’t need to buy a million, just look for electronics parts kits or assortments. It is better to buy the kits that have an itemized list of what you get. You don’t want a random box of stuff sweep up from the pick and place machine.For somethings, resistors come to mind, it can be very worthwhile to buy in bulk. However you need to know a bit about your interests and have a bit of experience under you help. For example if you are working with LEDs a lot buying biasing resistors in bulk might make sense. If you are working a lot with integrated circuits buying bypass compactors in bulk might make sense. It just saves time for future projects. Another example here is LEDs which can be very handy to have on hand in a few colors.However for the most part I don’t see a lot of wisdom buying odd stuff just to have them on hand. It wastes money and may never get used past the last project. Further somethings like electrolytics can go bad on the shelf. An example here might be a barometric pressure sensor, is it really likely you will have more than one project going is short succession for such a chip.I think the key is to get smart about what you really need starting out and don’t waste money on excessive parts purchases. Here is an example of a kit that itemizes what you should get:https://www.amazon.com/Elenco-CK-1000-Basic-Electronic-Parts/dp/B0002HBQHC.A little pricey and maybe not what you need. Most importantly to me is the list of contained parts with out looking all over for it.Go to SparkFun and you can find other kits to get started with, some under $20 bucks. These are just two suppliers there are far more to choose from.

author: pendoric
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2020, 07:05:46 pm
content: I am just going through this very process.Right up front I made the decision I wanted a fair amount of parts on hand but I am very conscious it is very easy to get buried under a mountain of parts (and still not have what you want).I also decided it was worth a few $$ to get the parts quickly and have a place where people have put honest reviews. As such I mainly went with Amazon, they have lots of assortments for very good prices and you can read the reviews for a feel what they are. I think some are knock offs none the less but they get the job done.Many of these parts came in very similar plastic boxes with small compartments. I decided to buy additional extra boxes rather than stacks of component draws. I also consolidated where it made sense for example 1 put the 1 turn and 10 turn ports in the same little compartment of a single small box. Everything listed below fits in one small milk crate so is pretty wife friendly.I was mainly looking at breadboarding so the selections reflect that. I will then build SDM via say JCLPCB but may need to rework some things. I am also mainly looking at 'fun' things to do with the tween kids thus microphones and speakers etc but some of the more 'misc' items may not be needed in most cases.Here is what I started with:Storage Boxes (actually match most 'kits')https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085RWQKLNhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085RXNNBVBasics and PassivesResistors (Best buy of the list)https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BNDL6DSDiodeshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q5FZR7XZener Diodeshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTWBXJ3Inductorshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKF43VFCeramic Capshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084VMLSFQElectrolytic Capshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081PT78Y5Poly Caps (prob not needed by most)https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G43Z92410 turn trimmer potshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3CJ1QJ1 turn trimmer potshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z657PQWTrimmer Capshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y4MP4JMActive / IC / TransistorsBJT Transistorshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TV9FFFQMOSFET Transistorshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082J3F8HJ74 Series IChttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08281B1YCIC Assortmenthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V1PKDZSLogic Level Convertershttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWVZHZJMisc Mechanicals etcBread Boardshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EV6LJ7G/Hookup wire for breadboardhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TX6BX47Connectors / Crimperhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZHB4BBYMosfet heat sinkshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY4RSM8Misc heat sinkshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PMWGYPVFoam for expensive IC storagehttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G74PGW9V leadshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X8YZJ64Misc Battery packshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BNMKNQXMini Speakershttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177ABRQ6Microphoneshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0VMN9P8 segment displayhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FDD4FRCComponent Kits (Provides things like breadboard wire, switches, leds, photo sensors, cables etc)Elegoo breadboard kithttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERPEMACSMD Kithttps://www.amazon.com/Component-Assortment-Capacitor-Transistor-Soldering/dp/B07GMRJC1QI also have a hand full of Pi and Arduino boards I will integrate with.Even here is the heart of Silicon Valley good electronics supply shops are going the way of the Dodo. But I do still have one good one left. If you are in the SF Bay area and need something check out.Anchor Electronicshttps://anchor-electronics.com/I still need to find something for crystals and NP0 caps for clock circuits but I will just grab them as needed from Anchor I think.I also need some higher wattage resistors....Umm, I see the mountain building...

author: Distinctly Average
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2020, 09:15:53 pm
content: Some superb tips here. I am not new to electronics, but have taken a very long break. I got into electronics at a very young age getting my first mains shock at about 8. As a student I was repairing TVs, Videos, CB radios (you can date it from that a,one) etc to support myself. I also had other hobbies, photography, windsurfing, cycling as well as study all taking up my time. Later on, marriage and kids almost killed off electronics. Most of my stock I got rid of to make room for children’s stuff. I have tools left, and recently got hold of a decent digital scope and bench PSU. I’ve been dabbling with Arduino and making it do stuff with LED strips etc, and have just begun building some bass guitar pedals for a friend. As such I have really begun getting back into it. This thread has been very helpful in that. So many thanks for all those who have contributed.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2021, 05:40:58 pm
content: Radio hams are dropping like flies!

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2021, 04:40:37 am
content: Quote from: Terry Bites on January 25, 2021, 05:40:58 pmWhat are you trying to say here?This actually brought up one question in my mind, do hams maintain the sort of parts stocks that modern experimenters need? Seriously I'd kinda question if the Ham kicking the bucket today really has anything for somebody involved in digital systems. I've seen a few ham shacks and sometimes they look like pre microprocessor tech wise.I guess a few do as not every ham is 100% focused on RF technologies but yeah I've seen museums with more modern electronics.

author: nemail2
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2021, 03:28:23 pm
content: Only thing I can tell as advice is to tell my story.I started from basically no parts with buying various resistor, transistor, diode, led, button, wire assortments as well as various Arduino clones and shields as well as LCD and OLED displays on AliExpress. I also bought several beginner and starter kits which all had various mixed items (sensors, actors) in them.When I started doing my own, more complex projects, I also started to stock specific parts which I then was sourcing from Mouser and that's where I am now, sitting in between metric craptons of assortment boxes and parts magazines...Also: find some reliable, decently fast supplier, where you can get parts within a few days or even immediately. You'll never be able to stock ALL parts.

author: YurkshireLad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2021, 04:52:13 am
content: Any suggestions for where to buy a "kit" of logic ICs; AND, OR etc in Canada? I've seen one place selling individual ICs for about C$.95, which isn't too bad.

author: MikeK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2021, 03:27:47 pm
content: I don't know about a "kit", or even Canada, but Futurlec carries a lot of chips for cheap.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2021, 07:50:48 pm
content: Buying kits is often a bad idea, it really depends upon the situation. However if you have specific projects in mind buy what is needed, IC wise,for that project plus a few extra. Eventually you will build up a kit that fits your interests. Be careful though or you will do like many of us (see above) and end up with hundreds of parts that never get used.Now the discussion will be a bit different when it come sot discreets like resistors. A kit or assortment mix can be useful but just try to make sure they are not all high value and limited usefulness resistors. In fact in some cases you will be better off making a bulk purchase of resistors in the common sizes. A complete collection of the EIA standard sizes would be a good thing but just bias the inventory to the more common sizes used in digital systems.The same thing applies to capacitors though I'd be far less inclined to buy a kit and I would never bother with a kit of electrolytics. Do however buy bypassing caps in a decent quantity.So no kits of Logic IC's, which in most cases would be a bad idea. Kits of other parts "may" be a good idea. However don't waste you money on a huge upfront investment. If you are starting out; tools, good ones, can be just as important as the material to work with. Or to put it another way you need to find balance and not piss away your budget in any one area.What do I mean by good tools. Well a decent DMM, a soldering iron that doesn't completely suck and a variety of hand tools. The hand tools would include small screw drivers, electronics side cutters, needle nose pliers, wire strippers, tweezers and soldering heat sinks. You don't need a lot to get started just buy stuff that isn't complete crap. Hand tools can be added to as the need demonstrates itself. The only other niche to fill is work holding tools, a Panavise seems to the the standard here and is certainly worth the investment but you can get by with lesser solutions.Quote from: YurkshireLad on March 06, 2021, 04:52:13 am

author: ResR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2021, 05:15:50 pm
content: I got quite a lot of good parts from Aliexpress recently like LEDs, resistors, CMOS logic jelly beans, I have clock built from these ICs that works over a year now, do watch for reviews before buying, although I once got also CD4017 chips marked and sold as CD4026BE, I have no idea how that much was mixed up.Also for storage I use Essve Essbox'es I salvaged from job sites, it is in various sizes, you can stack them also._

author: MikeK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2021, 06:53:51 pm
content: Chinese suppliers can be a source. All of my resistors from eBay and Aliexpress, however, have steel leads instead of tinned copper (test with magnet). I won't buy that junk anymore.

author: Calaverasgrande
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2021, 04:20:04 am
content: Like said above I always order extras for the price break. Within reason though. I have a lot more use for 100K resistors than 2.49k.My physical sorting is by the much maligned vertical parts bins. I have no problem moving them.Just do the same as when you move a TV or monitor. Tape a piece of cardboard across it.Use blue masking tape. Some of them needed two flats.The tricky part for me is keeping track of inventory.I have an xlsx with tabs for caps, reistors, semis etc. But I've easily got hundreds of different values now.In a perfect world I'd keep that up to date, but honestly it is only accurate 3 or 4 times a year.Did nobody mention Tayda Electronics?I get great prices and good service from them.Drawback would be the limited selection. They do not have more esoteric semiconductors or obscure passive component values.They do kill for standard value 1% metal film resistors and all your 10s and 47s of caps.

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 29, 2021, 03:29:40 pm
content: Tayda has been mentioned twice prior. Aqui el buscador vale mucho.. arriba y derecha

author: Chris Bennett
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 16, 2022, 06:36:59 pm
content: Now I know why my parts kit sucks. Molence brand.My Dupont leads, Elegoo. Corroded.Breadboards, Rexqualis. Terrible fit, probably corroded too.Breadboard jumper wires, too soft. But the manufacturer claims that on the page. At least they are honest. Bojack brandOnelinkmore banana plug to BNC converters are also steel and the banana plugs ends are steel too. Terrible fit on banana plug endsAll of the above was cheap, but I will spend more in the future.ElectroCookie seems to have nice solderable breadboards, but I haven't tried using them yet.They appear gold plated and the holes are metallic through to the other side.Makeronics breadboard and their banana plug to breadboard jumpers are silicone and look copper colored at the jumper ends.Not steel.

author: vstrulev
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2022, 10:50:12 pm
content: Quote from: alexanderbrevig on August 18, 2015, 10:13:00 pmGood day.1. Get a couple of SMD Enclosures from Aidetek so you may keep thousands components in ESD protected boxes. This will cover your reel to bag thing.2. When dealing with uC and most circuits, you develop your own set of skills and come up with the list of most used parts for: ADC; voltage dividers; pull up resistors; leds and its current limiting resistors; etc. Buy those parts in thousands or even reels. Example: 100pcs of smd resistors are $0.1 each. In reels: $0.0013. When decide what uC you like most, buy them in large quantity so you don't get short on the quantity. Thousands.4. Use good/fair soft for managing your stock: BOOMIST

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2023, 11:25:38 am
content: Quote from: wagon on October 03, 2015, 03:29:24 pmFor some bizarre reason I recycled an old fly-tipped flat screen TV this weekend- not so much salvaged, apart from a few spiders (some de-soldering practice) and a dubious power amp?

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 10:00:17 am
content: still providing some entertainment

author: Wallace Gasiewicz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2023, 05:34:40 pm
content: At the radio shop we get people dropping off collections of parts, mostly resistors and caps, mostly with leads for thru hole. Lots of gen purpose transistors and fets.Sometimes entire drawer boxes with parts. Sometimes expensive parts show up like .1% resistors.Lots of xtals, mostly weird ones though.They really have little use for these things.Other radio repair guys have the same experience.If you have a radio repair shop anywhere near, you might try to see if this is their experience. Look for CB shops also.I'll bet you that they would let you take a bunch of different parts for a donation of say $5 or $10 I sure would.These guys are too busy to organize the parts and take them to a hamfest or flea market.Sometimes a really good old breadboard shows up and no one has use for. Some of the older ones are very high quality.Stuff like that.

author: Solder_Junkie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2023, 10:24:17 am
content: One thing not mentioned by others is to avoid buying semiconductors from China on eBay and similar outlets. There are a lot of fakes out there. Also be wary of electrolytic capacitors, often you need high grade, low ESR types and they aren’t cheap.Farnell, Mouser, etc. can be surprisingly low cost, providing you reach their minimum order value. They sell genuine parts too…Over the years we all tend to collect more parts than are easy to keep track of, and no matter how much stock you have, there will always be a need to buy something extra for a project. That’s life.SJ

author: alligatorblues
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2023, 12:08:37 am
content: I always purchase at least up to the first break point, save items that are in excess of $10ea. I keep everything in the bags, tubes, tapes, etc that they are delivered in, and organize those in boxes, actives, transistors, diodes, electrolytics, other caps, resistors, expensive resistors, inductors and chokes, op amps and regulators, and I have a box of parts just for the Fluke 732b/c. beneath all that are many boxes of obsolete, defective, surplus boards that I haven't gotten to the solder pot. I also hold onto certain transformers.Then I have hand and power tools, crimp ends, crimp-end bodies. I picked up a defective 732B. All it needed was a wire harness for the battery. I just happen to have all the parts to make that harness, because I've made them before. Then there's salvaged fasteners. I keep those in small fishing-tackle boxes. I take all the screws out of almost everything headed for salvage pile.Then I've got cooling fans, heat sinks, power supplies, meters, standards, electrical cords. I've got 48 NEMA-15 outlets ON my racks, which are actually wire shelving. I usually havenwhat I need on hand, but not always.

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2023, 08:09:09 am
content: SOT-23 testing my scavenged haul of components - only two were transistors, half dozen were not identified, and the majority were various diodes (mostly Zener)

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 11, 2023, 09:04:02 pm
content: hi,I'm sure that many people have done this... but I'll just write it downI'm only into pedal building, but recently I realized that what I have (of components) is a lot...so I've built a database... "mysql" -- that is mariadb...using a linux server... but it can be done on someone's PC too..it is just a new project, at a very rudimentary level...but already works great....... details, if someone's interested.... ↓my greatest invention so far is to have different "tables" for different types of parts... resistors, caps, ICs, transistors, pots, jacks...otherwise the one table would be far to "complex"...so right now,when I suddenly decide to build something (simple things, like a Tube Screamer), I'll just go at it...and when I don't find a cap or resistor of a certain value..I'll search...but no longer in my boxes but in the databasescenario #2:when I decide to build something... and I'm about to place an order to a local store anyhow,I'll check the pots, for example... in the database...and check relatively rare values of anything making sure I'll have them at hand...I'll also check resistors (which I used to always buy, regardless of anything)...just a few searches, and...I won't buy everything... and 3x of everything... all the time...nor will I assume that I already have what I need...THE RESULTof this can largely differ from person to person...my hope is that my stash won't grow anymore...but I'll have what I need when I have that idea to build that (simple) thing..for professionals, using a database could result inmaking precise orders all the time...that is, limiting the redundance -- like "oh, let me make it 20 or 200, sure what's sure"...both your orders and your boxes will be streamlined...and everything under control...a database and the "user interface" -- a web page in a browser window --- doesn't have to be super fancy...and if you manage to keep complexity down...you'll love it...+1:another good invention of mineis to indicate the "stash number", which can refer to a box or a room, whatever..and this will release you from under the requirement to have everything at one place strictly...you just place a number in the "stash" field, other than 1, and you'll know where to lookyou'll know that when you don't find it, it's not missing, it's just in another box / room / heap...

author: nick liu
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 25, 2023, 09:48:13 am
content: My approach, starting about 2 years ago was to get only resistors and capacitors in 0805 SMT kits.

author: nick liu
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 27, 2023, 01:36:36 am
content: And I tend to not use sockets for DIP parts so I can't really re-use them for the next project.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2023, 05:07:18 am
content: Quote from: michaeliv on August 19, 2015, 01:18:13 amJust be very careful ordering electrolytics off Aliexpress or eBay sellers in China, you're probably going to end up with Sacons (Suncon namesquatting) or Rulycons (Rubycon namesquatting), one of a million fake Nichicons, or that brand that sounds like Fuiyoh which should be called Haiyaa.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2023, 06:40:49 am
content: Quote from: nemail2 on February 10, 2021, 03:28:23 pmChallenge accepted.

author: tridac
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2023, 12:03:47 am
content: Perhaps many of us started out in school days unsoldering parts from scrap computer boards, or ex mil equipmant. Pro kit does tend to contain higher than average quality parts, such as high stabilty resistors, tantalum and other expensive or even exotic parts, much of which is reusable. Ebay unused job lots can be usefull and new sets of caps and resistors can provide a wide selection. The sort of parts you will need depends on the sort of work you plan to do, but common parts, resistors, caps, transistors and diodes, opamps etc, can form the base of a working set. Then, specific items, as projects require them, a few more than you need, to build up a small stock. Takes time to get it all together, but after a year or few, you can end up with a good selection of parts, without always hiving to go out and order stuff. Here, boxes of all sizes, recovered and new parts, that make any what if type project much easier. Don't forget a good quality soldering iron, cutters, pliers, screwdrivers as well, as having the right (or close) tools for the job makes life much easier, improves workflow, and mental state. You'll probably make buying mistakes along the way, but experience will provide sharper focus over time. Electronics here originally, a house and storage full of collected junk, but mainly embedded software for decades now...

author: Altair8800
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 06:47:38 am
content: I know this is an old post... but it is Pinned...I've had some luck with an Amazon seller that goes by EEEEE (or eeeee.shop ).They sell Jelly Bean (very common) electronic components (Resistors, LEDs, Diodes, Transistors, Capacitors, ETC.) but they kind of Add Value in that they sell their components in individually closable containers and they have nice color coordinated labels with some useful simple information. This really helps in the organization of the component parts from the start and they are nice and compact (do not take up too much space).So if your new and want to quickly get some common circuit components, check them out...Example below of their component kits.

author: RAPo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 08:27:09 am
content: Yep, very handy, good components. You can store some of the bins like little books saving bench space.However, two nitpicks:1) please choose a uniform packaging format2) make the IC components pack available again,Quote from: Altair8800 on January 03, 2024, 06:47:38 am

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 10:27:42 am
content: Quote from: Altair8800 on January 03, 2024, 06:47:38 amI like EEEEEEEEEeeeeeeeee..... as well, it's just so convenient to have a few boxes of individually-labelled common parts you can get at quickly instead of having to go through drawers of stuff to find the 555 you were sure you had somewhere... maybe the next drawer down... or did I leave it on the workbench? The other day I needed to terminate a Modbus (RS-485) chain and pulled a 120ohm out of the EEEEEE resistor folder without even stopping to think about where the pack of intended-for-the-purpose resistors might be at the moment.

author: cosmicray
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2024, 09:41:53 pm
content: Quote from: 5U4GB on August 23, 2023, 06:40:49 amI did a mental exercise concerning E96 resistors (and only SMD). The magnitudes (beginning at 0R0 and proceeding up to ~9M76) contained 768 unique values per footprint size, without even getting into thick film, thin film or ppm variants. A shop with a full set of reels much have a significant investment in resistors alone. It starts out small, but then it just grows and grows.

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2024, 09:38:40 pm
content: Re. de-soldering practice... of course the haul of components from a pcb can be total, but unless you have noted the location and description of each component you may not be able to reassemble

author: Krotow
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2024, 10:00:42 am
content: People with a lot of unused storage space can keep a heap of donor boards from obsoleted analog and digital electronics as well. I believe this approach would work especially well for developing countries. Few my latest prototypes and repairs was partially or fully "sourced" from obsoleted routers, laptops, DVD readers, monitors etc. Price of these parts for me was effectively zero.

author: CaptainBucko
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2024, 02:03:38 am
content: I started collecting components around 1992, and have also worked in the industry. Here is where I am at the moment:- Primary Supplier : LCSC.com, which is the component sales arm of JLCPCB. Although located in China, they are highly reputable, and have datasheets behind everything they sell. You can buy high quality (ie: Panasonic) or no name, its your choice and you pay the difference. Shipping is about $8 USD (the slowest option) and is tracked and reliable. I would rather buy the cheapest option from LCSC than the most expensive from AliExpress. As a backup, I will buy from Mouser. In an emergency, I go to local suppliers.- Catalog : Run a big Excel sheet with a link to all parts I stock, where I stock them, and their corresponding datasheet.- Jellybeans : I keep a kit of Jellybean parts that I use in every project. Common value R's, C's, Op-Amps, FETs, BJTs, Diodes, LEDs, etc, etc. Unless I really need to vary from that, I don't. I have corresponding KiCad parts as well. You can adapt a lot of reference designs to use your jellybeans on hand if you understand the basics. This really cuts down on the stock pile.- Scrap Parts : To keep costs down, I try and find useful scrap. Raiding the eWaste bin has been great, particularly if you find industrial electronics which tend to use high quality parts. I will occasionally raid consumer grade e-waste, but I focus on high value items like AV receivers, and stuff with linear transformers, heat sinks, etc. However, I really only use scrap parts for high value, one offs. I don't both with Jellybean scrap.

author: kiwiwsniper
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 15, 2024, 11:02:28 pm
content: Hi there, I'm new to the forums but been into electronics for years.This thanks for all the people that put their time and effort into this thread before me as it was a long read.For me my stockpile has been going on for years my spare BUDGET is low and I want buy Quality parts so I buy some parts now and others later on and in between I save and buy midrange lab gear. (I.E. Solder station, Multimeter, Power Supply, etc)I have found my local electronics shop the best place to buy the “Jelly Bean Kits”.Most of the people have talked about what to get or where from, how to store parts and how to Inventory them. (ESD protection is a can of worms but look into it as it can save you money)Everything you can get you can get over time or next day. This all depends on your BUDGET and how much time you have.After all you can get all the parts but without a way to use them and test them if one or more part is bad after you put it into the circuit then what is the point of this hobby?EDIT: straight after I posted this I re-read this thread and had another thought about it.If you need 1 part of x amount, then buy as Much as you need to get to the next price break.E.G. if Part 1 needs a QTY of 7 for $3 each for a total of $21, but the next Price break says 10, then I buy 10 for $2.25 each for a total of $22.5.I use the 7 Items and Stockpile 3 Items also I have saved $7.5 plus the time to get them if I need to replace the part later on

author: aboubkr90
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2024, 12:49:12 pm
content: I'd suggest e-waste to fill the main bulk.Then buy specifics.

author: coreykelley
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 02, 2024, 12:29:26 pm
content: Thank you for this detailed post!

author: CRC
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2024, 02:29:42 am
content: I get lots of RF connectors and various stuff from ham radio swap meets. There is often tons of stuff there for almost nothing.

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2025, 05:38:30 am
content: Quote from: armandine2 on March 03, 2024, 09:38:40 pmdon't desolder until you need something. Make some notes about what you have to help you find something but most things won't get used ever so you can spend a lot of time removing things you may never use. Larger things like heatsinks and the attached transistors are worth removing if only to make the PCB take up less space.

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2025, 05:46:12 am
content: I trawled the Arrow website during their recent sale. I picked up some stuff like enclosures, wire, switches, panel lamps, heatshrink, banana plugs and sockets, binding posts, inductors. really anything that was too cheap to ignore that would complement the stuff I already had in my box-of-dreams (future projects).

author: peter.andaluz@gmail.com
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 22, 2025, 06:39:34 am
content: Amazon had a pack that had a lot in it to get you going. I wont post the link in case it violates some rule

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2025, 02:26:33 am
content: Try Tayda Electronicsj.mp/taydabit.ly/taydalog (login page)Though I don't recommend stockpiling.Buy what you need.Don't be a packrat!

author: CaptainBucko
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2025, 10:41:18 am
content: LCSC is better than Tayda IMO. I have bought from both, but if you were kitting up, spend $50 at LCSC and you will be surprised how much you can get.

author: Langdon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2025, 06:25:37 pm
content: LCSC doesn't sell everything.Plus Tayda's DDP DHL Express shipping is great!Let t represent the delivery time.50h≤t≤84h

author: CaptainBucko
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2025, 12:42:49 am
content: LCSC is SLOW! However, my point was really about "Stockpiling" where delivery time is irrelevant - If you are trying to build up a common part inventory, which I have done over the years, LCSC supplies good known brands for excellent prices in quantities of 20 or 50pcs. While you are at it, you could also order some of there pill box storage containers (https://www. lcsc. com/product-detail/Component-box_WENTAI-1-Bu_C15603.html). I know many people spend money on "kits" from AliExpress, but IMO, the quality is dubious, and you end up with many values you are unlikely to use.

author: lu1s.p
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2025, 11:40:49 am
content: Thanks so much for this helpKing regards

author: lu1s.p
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2025, 11:49:42 am
content: Thanks fot this advice mate,grateful

author: perumethu@gmail.com
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 15, 2025, 03:49:08 am
content: Quote from: alexanderbrevig on August 18, 2015, 10:13:00 pm

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2025, 07:53:41 pm
content: ...a good ic tester ?

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2025, 06:49:32 am
content: I am building aretro chip tester Proat the moment, you buy the pcb with the crystal and microcontroller, and "populate" from likely new components you source, identified from the BOM.I have used mostly new components - some zero ohm jumper resistors I had were salvaged stock. I also have the ULN2003A ic salvaged.Mostly the resistors I have don't easily fit the pcb footprint and those that did were usually the cheap steel legged ones?

author: JOSDHO
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2025, 08:05:50 am
content: Forget about trying to stock everything — you’ll just end up with drawers full of parts you’ll never touch. Start with resistor and capacitor kits (E12/E24, toss in some electrolytics). Add a handful of jellybean parts: 1N4148s, a few Schottkys, a couple zeners, some BJTs/MOSFETs, a couple of regulators, LM358/TL072, and LEDs. From there, just buy extras of whatever you need for each project. That way the parts bin grows on its own. Sensors, connectors, ferrites, etc. are too project-specific to hoard up front. Cheap kits off AliExpress/Amazon are fine for messing around, but when you actually need reliable stuff, order from Mouser/Digikey.