RAYTHEON 'Night Sight' ProtectIR 4000b mobile Thermal camera -HELP- - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Slammer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 10, 2023, 08:29:21 am
content: Hi all.. new to this forumI have an aging RAYTHEON ProtectIR 4000b mobile Thermal unit that is misbehaving. I realize the unit is 'ancient' by electronics standards, but aside from the issue I'm having, operates flawlessly. So I'm hoping to find someone with knowledge with this thermal unit. I'll settle for an electronics schematic, a pinout, anything related to this 4000b.Everything else works, but it will not go Left/Right with the joystick. The unit powers up, provides a great thermal image, goes Up/Down, but will not go left to right.I have checked continuity on all 25 pins of the control cable and there are no interruptions. I've also run 12vDC (&Ground) directly to the Autotrol motor inside the base of the unit. The motor works fine. I've also switched the 12v(+) with (-) leads, and the motor operates in the opposite direction. I've disassembled the joystick 'box' and checked for continuity on that particular controller, and all the switches work, and are continuous back to the main electronics control box. All 3 fuses were also checked and are fine.So as the POSSIBLE ISSUE, I've ruled OUT the motor, the main control cable from the electronics box to the outside unit, and the joystick control. Before I go exploring inside the control box for anything obvious, like a blown cap or something, I was hoping for some guidance or insight. Incidentally, there are two pair of 'travel sensors' wired into the control loom, presumably telling the camera which way is Forward (for when the unit is switched ON) and when it's facing Rearward (stowed position, when power is switched off).ANY assistance would be appreciated, even a direction on where to go to locate an old tech that may have the pertinent knowledge.THANK YOU!

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2023, 07:53:36 pm
content: There are probably sort of external power components for movements inside the control box.Maybe you can verify them by comparing them against each others.Some overload protection is possibly also present.You can check that rotation is not too stiff by leaving the motor free when testing movements.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2023, 08:26:43 pm
content: I imagine you're using this in the war effort?Check the two slotted optical switch sensor signals. The unit might think it is at the end-stops and refuse to move. It can be getting a confusing signal, i.e. at both end-stops at once. The outer one I would look at. Looks like an Optek part. Dirt can get in them too.The "E" emitter side is an IR LED with red/black wires, check for power to both sensors.The "S" looks like a photo-transistor but unusual to have three wires from it, it's usually just two.I can see a splice and heatshrink tubing maybe a common LED dropping resistor inside, so that might have a problem.

author: Slammer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 15, 2023, 04:22:31 am
content: m kYes, I suspect the issue may be inside the control box, but I wanted to check everything else before opening it to hopefully find an obvious issue.Comparing sounds good, I will try that. The control box has 3 fuses, all of which are accessible from the exterior. I have checked each and they are all good. When the 'top turret' with the camera and the 'tilt' mechanism is NOT mounted (in other words, the 'pan' motor is free to rotate) the motor, which is free, still does not operate clockwise (Right pan) or counterclockwise (Left pan) when power is on and joystick is applied.I'll keep trying other things.THANK you for your reply and please advise if you can think of anything else!~mb~

author: Slammer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 15, 2023, 06:43:43 am
content: floobydustWar effort.. lolNo, it's for personal use. In New Jersey ... lol.I will check the 'two slotted sensor signals'. These are 'optical' sensors, correct? I tried cleaning them with a q-tip and some rubbing alcohol but to no avail. I'll attach better pics of the guts and 'sensors'. I'll have to reply several times to fit them in. Pardon my ignorance but how exactly would I got about testing these sensors? I looked at the 'heatshrink' tubing and didn't splice it open, but it looks factory. I have another loom from another broken shell'ed unit, and the heatshrink tubing and the wires going into/out of are identical.I can probably make a rough wiring diagram of the guts but it'll be tedious, if you think it will definitely help you.Also - when the unit is on, there's usually a small square in the bottom/left of the thermal picture which allows the operator to tell in which direction the camera is pointing. I assume it calibrates itself on startup. In THIS particular unit, there is no 'pan' calibration in the beginning when it's first turned on, and the 'pointing arrow' is not visible inside the square in the picture.You seem to have knowledge with this unit - have you worked on them before? Either way, your input is GREATLY appreciated. I can't wait to get this up and running properly.THANK you again VERY MUCH!~mb~

author: Slammer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 15, 2023, 06:56:59 am
content: Link to pics & vids. Hoping this will help. A couple (marked *****Ronin*****, etc) aren't mine, and a couple toward the end are of the broken shell of a 2nd unit I have (no electronics).https://www.dropbox.com/sh/p2w1p1ykggioj5q/AACzRipLzhc-_iVFY4xH4fnFa?dl=0THANK YOU!~mb~

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2023, 08:45:28 am
content: I looked at the pictures. I'd check the fuses, one must be for the turret motor. The soldering connections on the D-connector, fuse holder as well. But this thing is well built.I would suspect a bad connection going to the the motor driver IC on the lower board.The position sensors might not be a problem - it should pulse the motor to move regardless of their signal.The outer sensor is blocked when the turret is in the "home" position. The inner sensor is alternately blocked every 5° of rotation. It looks like there is a slip-ring so the head can just spin around and around?position sensors OptekOPB980T51Red LED+Black LED-White +Vcc powerBlue OutputGreen GNDYou can measure the output voltage (dark blue DB25-pin 3,4) without and with something blocking the sensor. Make sure IR can't pass through it like thin paper. A credit card should be OK. The level should change if the sensor is working. The sensors are fragile and can be busted easily.

author: Slammer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 16, 2023, 06:02:11 am
content: Ok. I'll take the control box apart tomorrow and check all the connections. Additionally, I'll power up the unit and remove the fuses one at a time to see which does what. I should be able to take some readings on each leg where they plug in too. I suspect each motor has a fuse and the third one is probably for the camera itself, no? Sorry, my electronics knowledge just scratches the surface of most in here... lolYes, there IS a ring which all the turret wires go into on the bottom and allows the turret to turn 360°∞ without the wires getting tangled.I'll try and check the optical sensors tomorrow also. I really hope it's not an eProm or an IC or something like that that needs re-flashing or something. Is that even possible?THANK You, again.~mb~

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2023, 09:52:59 am
content: Contact problems can be quite nasty sometimes.Maybe there are some oxidation or its preventer coating is blocking the meter.Or by poking you're reconnecting it.Looking things too closely can also make parts move, despite that they are a single object.Better use a bright spotlight, or three.Small laser pointer can be a game changer, its scattering light will reveal things, but you must know what you should see.Losing both directions at once is also hinting that the power is missing.Turret ring is a good candidate, but dirty one should give a partial movement.Maybe its finger part is bent.

author: Slammer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 27, 2023, 08:50:21 pm
content: Sorry I haven't been on, guys. Just busy at home. I'll try more things and post results soon. Stay with me! 😊

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2023, 11:30:14 pm
content: I understand that you check the cable for breakage , but did you check all the sockets for possible bent or broken pins .This is often over looked.

author: vdeny
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2025, 09:22:10 am
content: Hi, does anyone know what pins on this camera can be for video out? Is it possible to power camera and get a video out if I don't have control box? Does anyone have repair manual in pdf for this camera?

author: Eurora
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2025, 02:49:37 am
content: I’ve worked with a few older thermal systems (including some ProtectIR units), so your troubleshooting process sounds very thorough — great job ruling out the motor, cable continuity, and joystick hardware. Based on what you describe, the issue is likely inside the main control board where the left/right drive signal is generated or switched. A failed H-bridge transistor or driver IC could cause loss of left/right motion while still allowing up/down to work. If you’re comfortable with electronics, you might check for voltage output on the L/R motor lines when you move the joystick — no voltage swing would confirm it’s a logic/driver failure rather than wiring.If you get stuck sourcing parts or want a modern drop-in replacement instead of repairing the board, you might also take a look at current-generation handhelds like the Thor 001 or P3 PCB Master. These are compact, fully digital systems with very reliable joystick control and readily available support.Either way,these 4000b units are rare to see still in use, so your findings could help others in the same situation.

author: Eurora
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2025, 02:51:50 am
content: I’ve worked with a few older thermal systems (including some ProtectIR units), so your troubleshooting process sounds very thorough — great job ruling out the motor, cable continuity, and joystick hardware. Based on what you describe, the issue is likely inside the main control board where the left/right drive signal is generated or switched. A failed H-bridge transistor or driver IC could cause loss of left/right motion while still allowing up/down to work. If you’re comfortable with electronics, you might check for voltage output on the L/R motor lines when you move the joystick — no voltage swing would confirm it’s a logic/driver failure rather than wiring.If you get stuck sourcing parts or want a modern drop-in replacement instead of repairing the board, you might also take a look at current-generation handhelds like theThor 001 or P3 PCB Master. These are compact, fully digital systems with very reliable joystick control and readily available support.Either way, these 4000b units are rare to see still in use, so your findings could help others in the same situation.