My Amscope microscope camera experience & microscope mods. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2012, 01:47:20 am
content: Disclaimer: I purposely have the focus mechanism and boom inverted from how Amscope shows it.Trinocular head:I had a project that I wanted to do a video ofhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects-designs-and-technical-stuff/video-of-design-and-build-of-precision-kelvin-banana-jacks-and-header-pins/msg148204/#msg148204and a lot of it would need to be done under the microscope. I also wanted to be able to take still shots thru the scope also. So I decided to try an eyepiece microscope camera on my Amscope SM-3B zoom binocular microscope. I talked to Amscope sales and they said the MU series of camera were the best they had in the reasonable price range and it also had the best software. So I got a MU500 camera (5Mpixel) and tried it in the eyepiece tube. The camera worked fine but it's not real convenient to try to look thru the other eyepiece with the camera hanging out of the other eyepiece. It also would mean that every time I wanted to take a picture or video clip I would have to remove one eyepiece and insert the camera. So it was pretty obvious that I needed a trinocular head so the camera could always be ready and I could look thru the eyepieces while I filmed. I got a SM745T zoom trinocular head to replace my binocular head. This head has a slide rod that switches the camera tube in but simultaneously blanks the left eyepiece. You lose your stereo vision which is harder to work without. (A scope that keeps both eyepieces working while the camera tube is active costs well over $1000.00 so I will live with it). You can get used to looking with both eyes open even though the left eyepiece is black but you still have no depth perception.Lesson learned: Don't think any video based system of magnification is going to be great to directly work with. The Stereo microscope is popular for a reason, depth perception. Video is great for documentation but not great to work under.The camera tube has an adjustment to allow the camera to be focused while the eyepieces are in focus. My suggestion (if you are buying a scope) is even if you don't think you will ever want to take pictures or video it only costs $19.40 more for the trinocular head, so buy it if you can.Camera:Very solid, heavy all metal enclosure. Feels like you could drive nails with it without hurting it.The lowest resolution (640x 480) at 57 fps of the 5M pixel camera seemed a little grainy so I also tried the 10M pixel camera whose lowest resolution was (912 x 684) at 27 fps. It turns out that the obtainable fps is also computer dependent and I gotWAYlower fps numbers than claimed. Slower than about 20 fps is not very useable since it gets hard to focus or follow motion on screen. The real Gotcha is that the fps drops even more when you actually record a video clip compared to just viewing it live on the computer screen. So it turns out the 5M pixel worked better for all around use since I could get a consistent >30 fps while actually recording. It also has 1280 x 960 @ 18 fps (8 fps actual) and 2592 x 1944 @ 5 fps (1.8 fps actual) resolutions that work great for still picture capture. So don't think more M pixels is better for microscope camera work. Even if you are only taking still shots trying to focus at 1.8 fps is a frustrating experience. The image gets sharper as the resolution goes up so even if you pre-focus at at the lowest resolution you still need to fine focus at the higher resolutions.Software:This is the first microscope camera software I have used but I am impressed with it. It seems like it has just about anything you could want in image capture and manipulation and the manual is actually understandable and is terse but complete. The real bonus to me as a machinist was all the measurement features that you can use on still shots. This is where the higher resolutions for still shots is usefull. You can calibrate for multiple magnifications and save the constants then switch to whatever power you are using. There is a catch with zoom so see my detent mod below for an explanation. I did a lot of testing with the calibration and accuracy of measurements and it is impressively accurate.Camera screen with all the function tabs on the left.Measurement screen with random measurement examples on the still pictureLens protection mod:I do a lot of tool grinding and soldering under the scope so I cut some polycarbonate circles that are the diameter of the LED light ring. I stick these on the light ring with three very little pieces of the thick clear double stick tape. This protects the lenses from solder smoke and exploding grinding disks and grinding swarf.Laptop shelf:I made the shelf out of a worn out acrylic glass bead cabinet window and a chunk of pet plastic. I used the knob from the stop collar that came with the scope. It just clamps to the main post of the base.Cover:Make yourself a cover for the scope it keeps the whole unit and especially the eyepieces clean. This is just a shopping bag cut and heat sealed in a few places. I uncover just the eyepieces when I use it and leave the cover on all the time.Slide shelf:I do a lot of things where I need a lot of space below the focal plane like using a dremel tool or inspecting cutting tools in the toolholders. And I also do a lot where I want to put a small part on the table under the lens. So I just put a piece of 3/8” x 6” x 18” steel plate between the feet of the base of the microscope. This can be slid back out of the way when necessary or pulled out to put your work on. With this setup I hardly ever have to move the scope up and down on the main post.Zoom knob detent mod:When you calibrate forMEASUREMENTin the software for a particular magnification you have to be able to repeat that exact zoom amount or your calibration is no good. That means you can only do the two extremes of zoom where the knob stop gives you a repeatable position. Or calibrate every time you want an intermediate zoom location and don't touch the zoom or you will have to recalibrate again. So I modified the zoom knob to have spring ball detent stops at every magnification marking on the zoom knob. This allows calibrating all the settings once and saving the constants so I can pick whatever mag I am on and measure instantly.

author: notsob
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2012, 02:59:38 am
content: Don't let Dave see that clean bench, he'll have a fit

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2012, 12:40:38 am
content: I've got pretty much that same Amscope setup at work. I got one level up in boom stand, and one down in camera, but I think it's the same head. I was a little skeptical of the quality online considering the price, but I was pleasantly surprised when it got here. I've spent a bunch of hours reworking 0402s under it and it's really pretty comfortable.You are totally right about working using the USB camera. It's not really practical. The one I got has color balance issue and the light has to be just right or it gets all washed out, but it's still nice for taking pictures of manufacturing issues and such. The motion blurs a bit too much real time as well. One issue I have with the way the camera mounts is that it doesn't lock into position and can rotate at will. I had to tape it in position so I didn't bump the scope and have it go all sideways.I see you got the LED ring light. I have one of those at home, but I got the cheaper florescent one at work. The LED one is worth the extra 20 bucks USD or something. One thing about the ring light is that the housing is plastic. There is nothing wrong with that, but the right side has a bunch of little holes now from when I accidentally poked it with a soldering iron. oops.It's no Olympus or Nikon, but it definitely gets the job done. It would be interesting to see how much they actually cost from the factory in China or wherever they get them made.Good job on the mods. I really like the laptop tray idea. I might have to do that one.

author: condor
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2012, 04:30:13 pm
content: I might add that the addition of a 0.5X, screw-on objective lens gives plenty of working distance. I bought one to use with my B&L zoom scope and 188 LED illuminator making a very nice workstation. My camera is the 3 Megapixel version which is plenty of resolution given the quality of the microscope optics. The latest software (3.5.563) can be downloaded from the manufacture @www.touptek.com.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2012, 05:05:22 pm
content: Agreed, I have the .5 objective and use it when 22.5X is enough magnification. I also have 20X eyepieces so that I can keep the .5 objective on and get to 45X. But that puts a lot more glass in the optical loop and the clarity and brightness are not as good as the 10X eyepieces and no .5X lens. The working distance is usualy adequate without the .5X lens added.

author: davrot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 05, 2013, 08:16:05 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on October 02, 2012, 01:47:20 amI am thinking about buying a stereo microscope and also noticed that most trino heads have this slide rod for switching between the camera tube and one of the eyes.How annoying is losing the depth perception during soldering?And where have you seen the other (more expensive) types? My experience is that most of these trino's have also the problem but are just lacking the information in the description.

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2013, 11:26:50 pm
content: I never solder when the camera is switched in. It's one or the other. I'm either taking a picture of something, or using the scope through both eyepieces.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 12:54:19 am
content: Quote from: davrot on February 05, 2013, 08:16:05 pmI saw it on Amscope but I can't find it. Give them a call.

author: davrot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 10:02:35 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on February 06, 2013, 12:54:19 amThanks. I had a very nice discussion with them. It is called the 'simul-focal stereo microscope' series. The price is around 500 USD (head, optics and dual arm boom) as long as you don't live in a country at the end of the world, like me (means: Germany). For me, shipping costs and bank transfer are in the region of 333 USD (plus 100 USD tax).Nevertheless, this means that this type of microscopes are out there and I just need to find a European company who sells these optical masterpieces.

author: davrot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 10:22:56 pm
content: Quote from: Smokey on February 05, 2013, 11:26:50 pmIn the moment, I am soldering with bare eyes down to 0603 & 0.5mm pitch. Afterwards I am checking the outcome with an USB microscope. The result looks like eaten and spit out again. Nevertheless, normally the resulting circuit works.My guess is that I need a stereo microscope (and I like the idea of recording my workflow. Even if I only can use it as a bad example). And I think that I will change my solder to 63 / 37 otherwise someone will eventually get stabbed by my spiky solder joints.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2013, 11:48:58 pm
content: Hereare the simul-focal units from Amscope. I would definately get one of these if If I had it to do over. That 3.5 to 90 X continuous zoom is pretty awesome also.

author: HackedFridgeMagnet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2013, 01:40:24 am
content: Hi Robrenz,Hopefully you can give me your point of view.I want to get one of these simul-focal units from Amscope.http://store.amscope.com/sm-4tpz-frl-3m.htmlmainly just for electronics but also so my family can use it for school science stuff.Are there any extras I might need or changes I might want. Is 3.5 to 90x a good range to go for?My wife wants to be able to shine light up through a slide as well, I should easily be able to arrange this with the boom stand, is that right?Any other suggestions, changes welcome, from anyone.Thanks

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2013, 01:45:07 pm
content: That looks like a good pick. I wish I had the simufocal. the 3.5 to 90 is more than sufficient for electronic work 45 is realy the most I ever use even on my machine shop work. I don't think this will be great for looking at slides even if you could hook up some sort of up light and slide support. And the magnification used on slides is usualy a lot higher. Re-read my section above about actual fps acheved on the computer. I am very suspect about the claimed performance of the 3 megapixel camera but it might just be a sweet spot that actualy performs that well. Amscope is very good on returns/adjustments so try that camera right away and see if it meets your needs. Your computer performance is part of that achievable fps so I am not saying Amscope is giving bogus specs, you just might need a super computer to get the fps they quote. Exposure settings also have an effect so you need to play around with that to see what gives the highest fps. IMO don't expect to continuosly work using the computer screen, the best fps you get will still seem laggy and drive you crazy.

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2013, 02:28:51 pm
content: Very nice report and set up. I have been looking at these also. I just sold my stereo scientific/medical microscope to put the money toward one of these (3.5X-90X).My only concern is using the stop collar for the laptop shelf. I would hate to have the boom crash down on my work. I might consider mounting a 15 inch LCD monitor on it. I wonder if an additional stop collar can be purchased separately. I will have to ask them.

author: HackedFridgeMagnet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2013, 02:37:21 pm
content: What is the maximum magnification necessary for general electronic work? Is 90x going to be used or should I just get up to 45x?Are there any disadvantages in the 3.5 to 90xlenselens over the 3.5 to 45x, such as more distortion or less light?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2013, 02:47:28 pm
content: Exactly the same lenses are in use for all of them. The difference between the 45X and the 90X is just the addition of the 2X barlow that screws on to the objective lense.10x eyepiece x 1X built in objective lens x the .7 to 4.5 zoom = 7X to 45X range10x eyepiece x 1X built in objective lens x 0.5 barlow x the .7 to 4.5 zoom = 3.5X to 22.5X range. Perfect for electronic work with 165mm working distance.10x eyepiece x 1X built in objective lens x 2.0 barlow x the .7 to 4.5 zoom = 14X to 90X range

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2013, 02:59:20 pm
content: Quote from: SLJ on April 26, 2013, 02:28:51 pmThanks, I have flipped my boom mount from the normal orientation and there is no room for the stop collar as shown in the pics. I only used the knob and pressure strip from the stop collar. That white ring is a piece of PET plastic I machined to have a large enough face to support the acrylic shelf that is screwed to it. I would have used the original stop collar for the shelf but it was not large enough to use. I have not had the boom slip in the two years that I have been using it daily.

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2013, 06:13:02 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on April 26, 2013, 02:59:20 pmGood to know. Since the smaller flat panel monitor I plan on using does not weigh much I can probably fashion something up in the shop to support a shelf. Thanks

author: Molybdo42
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2013, 10:55:55 am
content: Hi, I'm also interested in that scope, but I need to know four things :- what is the eye relief, in other words can you wear glasses + safety glasses and still have the full field of view- can you show how you modified the zoom knob, can I do the same with minimum tooling (no lathe, no CNC, but I have a drill press and a 3D printer) ?- can you take some pictures of a ruler graduation or any sharp black and white thing at 3.5x 90x and some in between, I mainly want to see the optics quality (colour fringing, sharpness)- and finally, does the working distance change a lot when zooming, can you give a rough idea of the focus distance between the end of the lens and the sample at different zooms ?Thanks !

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2013, 03:57:21 pm
content: Quote from: Molybdo42 on October 17, 2013, 10:55:55 am

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2013, 07:17:59 pm
content: Well, I bit the bullet and ordered the Amscope 3.5-90 simu-focal head with the dual boom, the adjustable 144 LED light ring, and a 5 MP camera. I ordered the 90 as I plan on looking at other things besides electronics with it. Due to the overall size I plan on building a separate 30 inch by 30 inch workstation for it to save my main bench space. I will wait until it arrives and play with it a little so I can choose the correct height. I already have a taller stool and plan on enough room for the computer underneath with the monitor overhead along with space for the hot air, soldering station, exhaust fan, and hand tools.I think the front of the workstation under the head might have a removable section with a lower level so I have space for a circuit board holder. It can't be too deep as I still need room for my legs underneath when I'm sitting at it so I will have to wait until I see how much hight is required. My goal would be to have a board laying flat on the work surface under the head and a board in the circuit board holder be about the same height without making much height adjustment to the microscope head. Maybe it's not even needed but my board holders usually add about 4 or 5 inches to the height and that would require the head of the microscope to be that much higher. I suppose I could make a board holder that just lays flat so there is not that much difference in height since the board should usually be flat under the head anyway. Still, my two favorite board holders easily rotate the board so you can get at both without removing it. I like that option when I'm working on through hole stuff which is more often the case at this point.

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2013, 11:54:22 am
content: Quote from: StevenWhitney on October 21, 2013, 03:48:46 amIts doing great, It had W7 from the start. I had to put a new cd drive in it but that's all.

author: sensor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 08:30:18 am
content: Hello good morning to the whole forum...I am new here... I am interested to electronics and mechanics... I would want to exchange opinions and projects and suggestions... I have in mind to modify my microscope stereo binocular..someone of you to knowledge of projects or prototypes of binocular conversion to trinocular? is it a change possible conversion that it could work? who can help me for this?

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 01:21:16 pm
content: Quote from: sensor on November 24, 2013, 08:30:18 amI doubt it would be possible and certainly not cost effective time wise to try and make it a trinocular. If your current eyepieces are removable you should be able to fit a camera in one of them to take photos. My camera came with adapters for mounting in microscopes with different eyepiece sizes.

author: sensor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 01:49:48 pm
content: hi Slj... I already have what you describe, but I need to use both two eyepieces and camera..

author: arekm
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 27, 2014, 11:04:45 am
content: Want to buy some camera for my amscope microscope but want to buy directly from China.Does anyone know which chinese microscope are sensible quality ones? Looking for ~3Mpix one.So far found 2Mpix for 60$http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Brand-New-2-0MP-USB-Live-Video-Eyepiece-Digital-Camera-for-Microscope/1056467095.html3Mpix for 100$ (well, to expensive)http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Best-sell-USB-Microscope-eyepiece-camera-3-0M-Pixel-Professional-No-Driver-Simple-Operation/1787075453.html

author: true
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2014, 04:47:08 pm
content: Quote from: HackedFridgeMagnet on April 26, 2013, 02:37:21 pmYou won't use 90x for electronics. It's also just an added conversion lens; you'll keep the conversion lens that widens the view on the scope all the time anyway.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2015, 10:29:56 pm
content: Just checking to see what might be any drawbacks or limitations of this "Simul-Focal" unit (especially vs. the AmScope SM-3B series)? Looks to be well under the $1k threshold (although a camera is extra).http://www.amscope.com/3-5x-45x-simul-focal-stereo-zoom-microscope-on-dual-arm-boom-stand.html

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2015, 10:37:40 pm
content: Quote from: Electro Fan on January 17, 2015, 10:29:56 pmIt should work just great and x45 is more than you need. You will need to add a good light source (e.g. a LED ring) , as is it will be too dark.

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2015, 11:01:57 pm
content: Quote from: Electro Fan on January 17, 2015, 10:29:56 pmThis is what I bought just yesterday for $1,122USD...1 - SM345TP (Simul-focal head with 0.5x & 2.0x Barlow lens')1 - APC-FR (Articulating arm clamp with focusing rack)1 - LED-144A (144 LED w/ 4 zone control)1 - MU503 (5MP USB 3.0 Camera)Called them up, not even 5 minutes later, done and done...

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2015, 11:16:11 pm
content: Quote from: zapta on January 17, 2015, 10:37:40 pmLED is preferred? Any reason to consider any other light source? Thx

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2015, 11:30:11 pm
content: Might be talking out my ass here...The fiber-optic sources make a lot of heat / noise...ok, at least the ones I used did.Florescent ring light - seems like they'd break too easily, although the light might be "smoother" than LEDs.LEDs - not a lot of heat, can 'steer' the light source to avoid reflections which is what the 4-zone LED ring light does (which is also the one I'm getting). Don't know if a guy could replace an individual LED if one went south.I'm also wondering if light temperature has any factor in it as well. The fiber-optic ones I used were incandescent based.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2015, 12:25:29 am
content: Quote from: Skimask on January 17, 2015, 11:30:11 pmRoger that, ThanksSeems like the ability to avoid reflections with the 4 zone LED is a good thing, and low heat and low noise are good, so the main thing left (although there are probably other considerations I don't know about) is color temperature; I looked at the Zeiss site - seems like they are very enthusiastic about LED - presumably they have to care about image quality as much as price and margin, but who knows.... maybe if you get the cost low enough and the margin big enough you get enthusiastic

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2015, 01:04:41 am
content: Quote from: Electro Fan on January 17, 2015, 11:16:11 pmLed ring provides good lighting, is compact, cool and inexpensive. Some may prefer other light spectrum, not sure, I am happy with LEDS. A ring can be slightly in the way of the solder iron but works for me.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2015, 06:26:21 am
content: I far prefer the light colour of a cold light source.

author: JoanTheSpark
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2015, 07:49:48 am
content: I got a trinocular (simul-focal, so can run cam and have stereo at same time) series microscope (0.7x-45x) with that cantilever bench mount.Also got a 144 LED ring for it.Both items are in the process of being modified..The last bit of the arm is not aligned vertical properly and likes to de-adjust itself which might lead to the microscope being damaged, so I'm replacing that with a DIY part.The 144 LED ring housing is made for all kinds of microscopes, so no ideal fit and sometimes in the way. I'm going to put the LED pcb into a lasercut stainless sheet metal piece that will snap fit onto the lower part of the microscope..Anyhow, onto my desire to share some info on the usb camera.The one I got from ToupTek is called UCMOS03100KPA (3.0 megapixels with USB 2.0) and the software that came with it is superb but the frame rate is not so cool .. 3-9 FPS, no matter which of the 3 resolutions I chose: 2048x1536, 1024x768 or 680x510.The PC it's running on is an old DELL Vostro 220 (Core2Duo 8400, 4GB Ram, Win Vista SP1). I was expecting USB 2.0 to bottleneck this a bit, but I'd hoped for 15-20 fps at 1024x768 (was this illusory?).I haven't tried the camera on a more recent machine yet, but will do so next.Anyone got similar experience with this and knows any solutions - more fps?Everything about Vista and USB 2.0 not being up to speed on the net is pretty old (<2010) and numbers for USB 2.0 vs fps of webcams/streams might not be comparable as I don't know how the camera/software is doing it here..Same company also does a USB 3.0 model, which seems to have 2 times the fps at similar resolutions as the USB 2.0 model - would be the solution if the price tag wasn't that prohibitive. Maybe a few years down the road..

author: JoanTheSpark
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2015, 11:08:10 am
content: Well, there ya go.. new LED mount ready and already snap'd into place.Also working a little bit longer with the usb camera I found that the fps reach up to 25 at 1024x768, which is pretty nice and what I expected. Sometimes the fps go down, but I guess this depends on usb controller hub activity (mouse/keyboard, etc.pp). So an expansion pci card is ordered and should alleviate this to nothing.Field of view of my camera with the supplied 0.5x reduction lens is a bit smaller than what one does see through the eyepieces, but still good enough to do work through it, especially if the fps is right.

author: arekm
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 08, 2015, 12:07:03 pm
content: Is there any optics inside of tube and is tube detachable from camera itself?I wonder how hard it would be to make DIY version of such camera. High resolution cameras are cheap, could get sensor and electronics from such. Tube is easy - 3d print. The hard part is optics... if there is any inside?And last question - is the area visible with eye thru eyepiece exactly the same (or a bit bigger) than area visible on the camera? (I've played with cheap 0.3Mpix microscope camera and it covered much smaller area that it was visible by eye thru eyepiece)

author: JoanTheSpark
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2015, 04:12:09 am
content: Quote from: arekm on May 08, 2015, 12:07:03 pmThere is optics inside the tube and it's detachable.. they have different tubes. I was told only the x0.5 would work with my camera.Quote from: arekm on May 08, 2015, 12:07:03 pmHard part is software and getting the camera data (high res) onto your screen of choice at high fps (and probably onto file for later viewing/usage)..Quote from: arekm on May 08, 2015, 12:07:03 pmView through cam vs eyepiece is not exactly the same.. eyepiece has a bigger viewing area.. maybe 10-20% more?!Probably depends on the specific model of scope, tube and camera you get..

author: DeanA
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 09:27:06 am
content: I have the SM-4TZ-80S Trinocular zoom scope.http://www.amazon.com/AmScope-SM-4TZ-80S-Professional-Trinocular-Magnification/dp/B00552L5WAI find the focus is going out a lot as I change zoom levels. Is this normal? Should I need to refocus as I change zoom level every time? I'm starting to find it quite frustrating.Thanks,Dean.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2015, 09:31:26 am
content: Quote from: DeanA on August 20, 2015, 09:27:06 amIt's the one of the differences between a cheap microscope like the Amscope and something high end. All of the lower end microscopes I've had exhibited this feature, whereas an Olympus or a Leica stays in good focus when zooming. If I'm zooming in and out a lot then I find it best to focus at maximum zoom and then cope with it not being in perfect focus at lower magnifications. Obviously if there's a big shift in focus you'll still need to change the focus but it's rare I'm using all the zoom range on a cheap microscope.

author: SLJ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 11:35:36 pm
content: Did finally get my Amscope set up done and just realized I did not post the finished workstation here. Went with a computer/monitor for the camera and not a laptop.Bought a roll around computer stand and modified it. Wound up using threaded rods/nuts to build adjustable shelves to hold the camera monitor and soldering tools.Been using it almost a year now and it all works very well.More info:Micro-Soldering Station

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 12:59:30 am
content: ^Nice setup. I have just given in and built my workbench around my microscope.QuoteMy sample of one Amscope tracks perfectly.Quote+1.This applies to any microscope, no matter how well it tracks, how much it cost, or what name is printed on the box. The more you magnify, the shallower the depth of focus. Under 7X, an entire IC is in focus, plus more. At 45X, do you want to focus on the surface of the pins or the surface of the pads? Because you have to choose.If you focus at low zoom, it's a total crapshoot if the object of interest will be in focus when you zoom in. I keep hearing about these expensive microscopes that magically know what you're looking at and autofocus for that distance when you zoom in, in a process commonly summed up as "tracking," and which is apparently scientifically possible if a scope costs about $500.00 more and has an expensive name printed on it. I'd like someone to explain how that works. I understand how optics can have better wavelength correction, clarity, and distortion. I'm not understanding how expensive microscopes read your mind. Conceded that more optimal wavelength correction can slightly increase the practical depth of focus, at least in any particular range of magnification.Now, if you focus at high mag and the object is out of focus when you zoom out, then yeah, you have a problem. Check out these instructions for tuning the scope for your individual eyesight.http://meijitechno.com/how-to-parfocal-your-stereo-zoom-microscope/

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2015, 10:16:53 pm
content: Here's my newly finished Amscope setup.It's an upgrade from a pretty old fixed zoom setup I've been using for about 15 years -http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/microscopes/4718828/. The old one still worked OK, but I found the single light, the mount and the fixed magnification to be limiting. It was time for an upgrade.The new microscope is part number SM-8TW2-144S. I am not using the LED ring, or the x0.5 or x2 Barlow lenses. The 2x lens is useless for rework, there's no room to work. The 8" afforded when using the 0.5x sounds great, but I found that the distance between bench and eyepieces didn't work comfortably for me, and during a rework session I can be at it for several hours at a time. Without either Barlow lens, the working distance is 4". If you add the LED ring, you can take another half inch off, but more importantly, you can't reasonably get the desolder hot air iron in there at a reasonable angle with the LED ring on. So you'll see I've jury rigged a couple of LED goosenecks from the local cheapo store for now, and they work reasonably well, although I might have a go at pimping them up a bit for a few more lumens, they're not running that hot. Prices for "proper" microscope goosenecks are horrendous.I am only using the 10X eyepieces, so as the zoom range 0s 0.7 to 4.5, and I'm not using any Barlow lenses, the actual range of the scope is x7 to x45 in this configuration. This is fine with the eyepieces, but a bit close in with the 0.5x C mount for the camera. Hopefully the 0.3x C mount will help here.The monitor is a 13.3" 1920x1080 resolution HDMI monitor designed for roof mount in car entertainment systems: I affixed it to the underside of my shelf. The camera is a 1080p 60fps unit from ebay with a C mount. I used a x0.5 C mount adapter from Amscope, but I've since ordered a 0.3x as the field of view between eyepiece and camera is too much. It's not clear until you really read up a lot that although it's trinocular, the left eye piece is switched to the camera port, although this feature is noted elsewhere in this thread. I don't use the camera unless I'm shooting a video or documenting: despite the near zero latency afforded by going direct to a camera rather than through a PC, it's still not as good as using the eyepieces.The arm mount is substantial, and best of all I can easily swing the unit out of the way, folding up as I go. I have the mount pivot directly between two desks, so it can be used on either.The biggest visible difference between this new Amscope and my old microscope is that the field of view can be adjusted with just the knob. Getting the microscope set up so you can simply zoom in and out without having to re-focus takes a minute or so, but there's a knack to it (http://www.visioneng.com/resources/articles/how-to-correctly-set-up-and-focus-a-stereo-microscope)! I've also found that I can get both the camera port and the eyepieces to maintain focus throughout the zoom range, but it takes a couple of minutes of patience to get it right.I'm still getting used to it. I will be honest and say that at first, I found it difficult to get used to. It's a bit like climbing into a new car, the controls are subtly and sometimes not so subtly different. Even getting used to the new eyepieces was not without its initial doubts, but I found I adapted quickly. Indeed, I almost put my old microscope back on the bench while I was figuring how to attain a comfortable posture posture, getting the lighting right, the magnification right and being able to get the tools in there. My work rate at first was much slower for a while which was frustrating. Now I've figured out my way around it and become comfortable with it I'm much happier with the setup.If I bought again, I'd forget about all the extra lenses, just go for a basic 7x to 45x unit, everything else is superfluous to me for day to day use. Changing lenses and working heights to get the 3.5x to 225x range is just to much of a hassle. Not knowing the right questions to ask and not being able to try before buy also means inevitably I wasn't going to make all the right decisions.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 12:23:46 am
content: What kind of digital camera are you using?I likes the 0.5 Barlow and the LED ring, personally. If you can adjust the forward tilt of your scope, you can bring the eyepieces down significantly with a small adjustment. And get a better frontal view in the process.

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 01:10:06 am
content: Quote from: KL27x on October 26, 2015, 12:23:46 amI'm still experimenting: on my old microscope, tilting forward was exactly what I did. Now I have this articulated arm (by the way, I removed the first section, it's unnecessary for my setup), I just realised that you need to set up the articulations just right to allow a tilt as you describe. My main concern is the field of vision, it is very narrow, so tilting will inevitably be a compromise visually.I'll give it another go in the next few days, I have a stack of rework to get through on units that failed my final testing that's been backing up over the past six months, so it's a good time to get familiar.Thanks again for the tip, I'll report back. Rework is a bit like having to do homework back when you're a kid, the thought of it abhors you, but once you get in to it, it's no big deal, and actually quite therapeutic. Plus, the customer gets a unit that's been tested and retested to the nth degree. 98% of the time it's a single part: the very few that remain I generally write off, life's just too short! I guess not many outfits can be bothered with part level replacement these days though.

author: JoanTheSpark
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 01:37:45 am
content: Quote from: Howardlong on October 25, 2015, 10:16:53 pmI was wondering, how does that work with potentially fixing the off-the-shelf LED ring onto that cone-shaped black lens cover of this particular scope?Is there a cylindrical part at the end of it?Mine had a cylinder with a groove that I did use for my DIY snap in place LED ring, so it' doesn't use more space than the scope itself down there. Still got like 3 of those stainless pieces :-)

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 26, 2015, 08:16:44 am
content: The LED ring comes with a screw in adapter with a groove around the circumference to accept the ring that fits below the stock microscope or the 0.5x Barlow. I believe the 2x Barlow has the LED groove already on it so no need for the adapter.

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 28, 2015, 08:49:44 pm
content: Quote from: KL27x on October 26, 2015, 12:23:46 amIt is this one:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141504824195?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITThe main requirement was for 1080p >=25fps and minimal latency. There is some wobble effect when things move rapidly in front of it, but to be fair that's not what it's for. There is also a just noticeable amount of latency.I have now tried again over a few sessions different set ups. I keep going back to 1x. I can't seem to tilt the head forward. It will go back, but not forward.I've also tried several different methods of illumination. The LED ring just gets in the way, so I've gone to trying a number of gooseneck clip on options.Things to note about these types of lights are:o Check the clip opens widely enough.o Is the light itself small enough to not be a hinderance?o I prefer white light to warm light.o Is it a spot light or wider angle or diffuse? You probably want a spot.o Choose a spot with an appropriate size at a reasonable distance so that doesn't get into the field of view.o CFLs take a minute or so to warm up.o Is the gooseneck long and slender enough?o You may well want two to fill in for each other.o I found many lights flicker on video, including CFLs, LEDs and even halogen.Of the four goosenecks I've tried, this one is by far the best I've triedhttp://www.lloytron.com/categories/products/lighting/desk-hobby-lamps/product/3w-led-apollo-hobby-study-clip-on-lamp-silver/L1507SV~L1507SVIt's a small spot, two can be clamped onto the microscope fairly easily, and the business end is small, affording easy access for tools. There's also no video flicker.Two photos, the first is over exposed so shows a wider spot than is apparent in the flesh, the size is reflected better in the second photo.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2015, 03:40:35 pm
content: I like the laptop stand. Very nice setup!

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2015, 04:08:28 pm
content: I see some great information in this thread. I'm currently preparing to purchase a microscope and it looks like I'll either do an Amscope trinocular or an Omano. Does anyone know anything about the Omano scopes?Fat

author: LabSpokane
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2015, 09:52:42 pm
content: I have an Omano and like it fine. What I like best about it was the dealer. Microscope.com was very patient with me and gave me good advice. They even talked me out of a new Meiji - which was the right call. I have the OM99 just because I'm picky about optics. The field of view is very good with mild fuzziness near the edges. The stand is what makes the difference because it is so easy to recenter the image with the boom stand.If you get a Barlow, you might consider a 0.6x. The 0.5X really jacks up the scope eyepieces.Also, the upgraded ring light is surprisingly effective and affordable.

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2015, 10:43:22 pm
content: Thanks!

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2015, 08:10:15 pm
content: QuoteI have my scope set for about 12-14 degrees of tilt. I find no issue with FOV or depth of focus at this little bit of tilt. But I only use about 7-9x, max, for PCB work. At higher magnification, you could have more issues.What I like about this angle is I can easily inspect IC's while soldering. Even when I use reflow soldering, I have always inspected the PCB's at an angle, having to turn the board to see all the pins. It would be great to be able to inspect all the pins from a direct overhead angle and/or even to drag solder both rows of a DIL IC without turning the pcb. But I just can't see between the pins well enough to be comfortable with that, yet.FYI, I just measured the difference. At a 13ish degree angle, the eyepieces are about 1.5" lower, when focused on the bench top, using my 45 degree angled eyepiece microscope with 0.5" barlow. Approximately 15" over the benchtop, vs 16.5". And that is only half the equation; it's more than just the absolute height. With the tilt, I am greatly more comfortable working on a block 1.5" above the bench surface than I am with no tilt and focusing on the bench surface.I'm a fair bit taller than the average bear, but my bench is also a bit taller than average, at 36", so I think I can say that the average user might want just a little tilt to use a Barlow lens, comfortably. I use a regular office chair and have no problem working under the scope for hours; I've never had to stop for neck or eye strain.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2015, 08:21:08 pm
content: Quote from: KL27x on November 06, 2015, 08:10:15 pmHere's a rather poor video of a Vision Engineering (who make the Mantis) VS7 dynascope. The interesting bit happens about 1min 10 seconds in. Fabulous inspection tool.

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2015, 03:12:51 am
content: Finally made the purchase. Omano 3.5 - 45 2300s trinocular with a double boom and a 80 LED light.About a week away.Fat

author: kuclad
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 28, 2016, 05:39:25 pm
content: Quote from: JoanTheSpark on March 30, 2015, 11:08:10 amJoanTheSpark, that's a perfect fit, looks great. How did you have that made? I've ordered laser cut parts before, but the results are always flat. Did you make the bends yourself? Would you be willing to share the design files?