Custom logo's (etc) on a metal enclosure - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Plecto
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2013, 06:17:48 pm
content: Hi. I was thinking that it would be really cool to get some custom logo's and different letters on my finished products, but I'm not sure how I can get it. Is it possible to make this myself or are there perhaps people who can do self adhesive custom logo's for me?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2013, 07:08:52 pm
content: I use Brother TZ laminated labels. I bought PC controlled PT-1230 and PT-2430 printers. The 1230 allows up to 12mm wide labels, the 2430 takes up to 24mm label stock. There is a good range of TZ tape types and you can create images and graphics using the PC program for transfer to tape. The Brother TZ tape is very good quality, long lasting and resistant to water and most chemicals.The 1230 is currently priced at GBP15 on e*ay in the UK and the 2430 is GBP50 but you get a GBP30 refund as part of a Brother promotion that ends tomorrow (Monday 30th)PT-1230: More stock arriving this week.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310666335043?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649PT-2430:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140995242246?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649I do airbrush painting as well. you can use stencils to create graphics etc. There is also a miniature sand blaster that is used to etch glass and metal surfaces. You use a stencil to protect the surface you do not want etched. Really easy to do and effective.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-SANDBLASTER-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-AIR-BRUSH-RB4-/290662412113?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item43acd46f51

author: MacAttak
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 29, 2013, 10:58:59 pm
content: Quote from: Aurora on September 29, 2013, 07:08:52 pmThese are also called "Air Erasers". You can find them (overpriced) in art supply stores. But I have also spotted them very cheap at Harbor Freight. If there is one of those near you (the OP didn't set their country in their profile), then that might be the cheapest option.I agree it is a cheap, easy, and effective technique. It produces a "frosted" appearance on the target substrate material. You need to be careful with the masking - the abrasive will bleed under the edge of the mask if the mask isn't done well. Good masking tape works well as long as you press it tightly to seal and then cut the stencil shape from the mask (while it is applied to the target surface). Also, you want to wear one of those paper masks to avoid breathing the dust.

author: AlfBaz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2013, 11:59:12 pm
content: I have been looking into this lately to refurbish old gear but for plastic instead of metal.If it's a metal enclosure you should look into toner transfer like they do with PCB image transfers.What they do is laser print the image on to paper and then use a clothes iron or press and apply a lot of heat and pressure to melt the toner image onto the copper. Once it's bonded the PCB is soaked in water so that the paper can just rub off leaving behind the toner.A simpler option, since the image doesn't have to be acid resistant, is to buy some A4 label paper, peel off the paper and keep the backing sheet. You print a reversed image onto the smooth surface with a laser printer. The toner sticks to this surface but doesn't bond as well as it does on paper so it requires less heat and pressure to get the toner to "re-melt" onto the enclosure. This even works on some plastic but you have to be more careful with the heat applied so you don't deform or melt the plastic enclosure.There are other variations on the above mentioned technique, just go to you tube and type "toner transfer"

author: cwalex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2013, 04:20:15 am
content: Quote from: AlfBaz on September 29, 2013, 11:59:12 pmI've seen some really nice effects using that technique at diystomboxes forum where the image or text are etched on the die cast alum enclosure with ferric chloride.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2013, 08:58:53 am
content: Quote from: Aurora on September 29, 2013, 07:08:52 pmwhats the life of those printed labes, how long can you read it after it was printed

author: Dave
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2013, 09:32:46 am
content: I've had an idea for putting artwork on metal front panels for a while now, but I haven't yet put it to the test.Print the negative artwork on a glossy(-ish) piece of paper with a laser printer, and then transfer the toner to the front panel with an iron (or better yet, a laminator, if it fits in there). Remove the paper and lightly spray (a fine mist, no drops) the toner with acetone/paint thinner, so it just slightly melts and seals the microscopic holes that may be there. Tape all of the exposed metal that you want unharmed, and etch in a hydrochloric acid + hydrogen peroxide bath. You then have a recession that's a couple of dozen microns deep. Give it a thick layer of spray paint so it fills that recession. Let it dry. Remove the tape and use a fine grit sandpaper taped to a flat surface to remove the toner off the front panel. It has to be flat, so the sandpaper doesn't scrape the paint from the etched recessions. Clean with a moist cloth and possibly spray the whole thing with paint thinner, so the paint becomes glossy again. You should now have a fine looking front panel.You could also incorporate multi-colored designs this way, just mask and individually spray the parts of the design.tl;dr etching and spray painting

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2013, 12:09:12 pm
content: reference the life of TZ labels. I have only seen them damaged by significant heat. The label is a laminate involving a coloured substrate, coloured plastic lettering/graphic and then a clear protective laminate layer. These labels are designed for industrial use and chemical/UV resistance. These are not like thermal paper that ages. The process is more like the old plastic typewriter ribbons that punch out a plastic letter from a sheet (the ribbon) onto the substrate. Very long lived. I have laminated labels on items that are over 10 years.The Brother technical sheet on the TZ labels is here:http://www.brother.co.uk/display.cfm/id/240023The TZ label range is described here:http://welcome.solutions.brother.com/bsc/public_s/id/eu/gb/en/p-touch/1230euk/c_o/index.html?reg=eu&cao=tapeThe Various substrates and prices:http://www.labelzone.co.uk/tz-tape/c32?gclid=CPmkifuK87kCFfMdtAodswEADA

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2013, 12:22:30 pm
content: This video contains my favorite method. The final quality is only limited by your graphic arts skillsThe panel part is a few minutes into the video so be patient.This is a videoon applying large adhesive backed pieces mentioned in the above video

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2013, 12:47:34 pm
content: Or use an actual PCB as your front panel.That gets you- Exact holes and cutouts (note: cutouts will have rounded corners)- Professional silkscreen text/graphics in a few colors- Professional gold or tin text/graphics- various panel colors (soldermask)

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2013, 08:55:39 pm
content: Quote from: Aurora on September 30, 2013, 12:09:12 pmbrother should thank you for another purchase of their productsjust have to decide between the modelshttp://www.labelzone.co.uk/brother-pt-2730vp-label-printer/p2726i like this one the best but pricy

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2013, 10:15:21 pm
content: GBP26 after rebate....pretty good :-)

author: Spikee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2013, 10:29:24 pm
content: You can laser etch your own frontpanel markings: Ponoko Germany:http://www.ponoko.com/make-and-sell/show-material/355-acrylic-gs-brushed-silver-cover-one-sided-with-black-core#main-imageAnother way is to use a cnc router to engrave your text on -> use some sort of acid on the engraving and it will turn blackSee:You can get those engraving cnc's on ebay for less that 1000$ which would be great for this job.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2013, 08:36:58 am
content: Quote from: Aurora on September 30, 2013, 10:15:21 pmyeah wonder if its for uk residents only or international they have no mention on our local site for a promotion and that uk dealer has hungary considered as special locations regarding shipping wonder why

author: garak
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2013, 12:11:39 pm
content: Depending on your exact requirements (which you didn't specify) you might be able to get away with thermal transfer or laser printing onto transparent label stock. For scratch-resistance, stick an additional blank label over the top of the printed one when you put it on the product. I've used this technique for serial-numbering one-off and small run test equipment in cast-ally enclosures before, works a treat.

author: Plecto
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2014, 10:50:24 pm
content: Sorry for not replying to this thread.I've read through the replies and I have to say that there are a lot of great solutions. I've given this some thought and as much as I want a professionally engraved logo on my enclosure, I think I simple sticker will do as as a start. Transparent self-adhesive paper will probably be just fine, but I need to be able to print this with a inkjet printer (to get colors), but are there transparent paper that can be used with anything but a laser printer? My laser printer can only do black & white which is not ideal when I have a black enclosure

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2014, 11:02:54 pm
content: I just recently joined a local hackerspace (techshop) and took their laser cutter class. I'm now having tons of fun redoing my ugly panels (done with hand tools and often no labels at all) with the laser cutter and simple matte black acrylic.if you are able to find access to a laser cutter, DO it. you will enjoy it and find lots of uses for it.see my flickr stream for examples of my recent laser cutter projects and front panels.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2014, 05:41:31 am
content: Simple way to do colour is to go to a print shop and get them to do the adhesive transparency in a colour laser, it will be a lot more durable than a water based inkjet output. Take a second sheet and laminate it on as an overlay which will make it more scratch resistant.