Tektronix THS7xxx Scope Hack/Teardown/Discussion - FW 1.16 found - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 11, 2014, 01:37:26 am
content: Hello,PC SW to manage the Scope and take screenshotsThanks tomrprecisionhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tek-ths720a-portable-scope-teardowndiscussion/msg3566625/#msg3566625Video on how to install LED backlightThanks tomrprecisionIn german language:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tek-ths720a-portable-scope-teardowndiscussion/msg3590917/#msg3590917FW UPDATEThanks tosuperman13https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tek-ths720a-portable-scope-teardowndiscussion/msg1480909/#msg1480909Thanks toyaromka, here the FW1.16FW 1.16HACKThanks toTurboTomhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tek-ths720a-portable-scope-teardowndiscussion/msg1073777/#msg1073777SCHEMATICSThanks toR_G_B_https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-ths700-tekscope-component-level-information-package-and-schematic/ORIGINAL POST ON THS720AI just got a Tek THS720A on Ebay. I like this device a lot, there is isolation everywhere: each scope CH and also the DMM input are isolated from each other. For a portable scope a good isolation is a must. The price range is much affordable than a Fluke scope which cost an arm and a leg.It is a 100Mhz scope 2 CH, see some specifications here:QuoteThe device needs 502mA (400mA when the LCD back light is off) from the 12VDC jack with no battery connected. In standby the current goes down to 8.45mA. With 5.5VDC on the 12VDC Jack the device was still on, but I did not went below that limit because I heard some funky noises (surely some switching DC/DC converter was screaming on me).Regarding the battery, it is a 4.8V Ni-Cd (4xSize C) 2.8Ah. At 4.8V Battery voltage the device is asking 1.2A (1A when the back light LCD is off) to stay on. "Low Battery" warning appears at 4.6V. The power cuts off at 4.2V. In standby the current is about 176µA.I performed a full discharge and then I charged it for 16 hours at C/10 280mA. Afterwards I did discharge test @1.2A CC:not bad, 2.71 Ah Capacity and simulated 2:14 Lifetime to reach 4.2V (power cuts off).The battery charger works like this (according to my reverse engineering):VBatt <3.5V: CC charge at 110mAVBatt >3.8V: charge current = -187.27*VBatt+1283.633.5V<VBatt <3.8V: Previous stateUnfortunately It has a problem, see here for detailshttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/tek-ths720a-thinks-there-are-110v-on-the-input-but-there-is-just-a-50-ohm-r/msg490731/so I decided to tear it down. I hope I can fix it.Here we go:Under the front panel, solid metal panel for EMI with on top the the flex keyboardbelow we can find the inverter board for the back light and the LCDinverter top sideinverter bottom sideNice touch, very practical to remove the rear battery casewithout the inverter and the LCDrear panel with battery holderBattery contacts, in this way you can´t use regular 4 Size C batteriesmain board bottom side; clearly CH 1, CH 2 and DMM are isolatedCH 1 circuit bottom sideDMM input bottom sidecentral digital stuff, bottom sideLCD output and power supply circuit, bottom sideMain board top side, funny those two transformer for each channelPower supply, top sideCH circuits, I don´t want to desolder the cans yetInteresting DMM input, extra PCB piece above the main board for EMI?Main processor stuff, top side. Debug/Service port on the top?Todo List:1) Fix the offset Problem in CH12) Upgrade FW from 1.14 to 1.16, any advice? Looks like the FW is in U1 (from Memory_Erasure_071181500.pdf):Quote3) CalibrationPossible Mods:Does anybody has the schematics?1) Build a switch to manage the back light LCD (turn off and on the inverter board). If there is enough ambient light, there is no need to use that energy. Why Tektronix did not built a back light switch?2) Reverse Engineering the power supply and and battery charge circuit. Upgrade to Li ion by using three of those ones:http://www.battery-matrix.com/3-2V26650-3300mah-LIFEPO4-IFR26650-3300mah.htmlwhich just fit perfectly in the 4xSize C battery compartment. Target is to achieve a battery life between 2x and 3x than the current one.3) Develop a 4 leds battery gauge.------High resolution pictures here:http://postimg.org/gallery/6dfgsp1i/Sorry I did everything with an IPhone 5, a Canon 60D will be in my hands soon.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2014, 02:59:33 am
content: Congratulation on the score and nice tear down.Glad I can see the inner gut of this scope cause all this time I was curious how it looks like inside, thank you !Too bad, sorry to hear it has problem, mine doesn't have that. Also does it came with the P6117 probes ? These P6117 probes are designed and built specifically for isolated probing, and its hard to find and quite expensive even its used.Btw, I made a discussion thread when I bought my THS710A ->HEREwhile ago.About the NiCd battery pack, since the original Tek's batt pack is stupidly expensive, I modded 3 pieces of AA->C adapter, and made the battery pack for it, and used Eneloop Pro 2450 mAH batteries. It performs a lot better than that shitty NiCd cells, cause these NiCd is well known to have a really high self drain, mine will be fully discharged when left unused just for less than 2 weeks.Too bad currently I don't have the modded battery pack with me, but it looks very similar to Jay's one at above pointed THS710A discussion thread, but with slightly modded with a long cut across the battery pack to allow the AA batteries to be released as the adapters have hinges. Its very handy as I can charge each of them properly in externally NiMH charger Maha MH-C9000. Also the standard slow charging method at the scope is using low current & overnight method which is not suitable for NiMh cells. Attached below photo shows my other spare AA to C adapters that I planned to build another battery pack for my THS710A soon.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 11, 2014, 03:58:50 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on August 11, 2014, 02:59:33 amVery nice thread! Thx!One P6117 was there, and I already got a P5102 65$,eBay auction: #111429274915, as a second probe. Yes I am stupid I should had wait to see if my unit can be fixed or not.Regarding the Battery, your solution is very reasonable. Still I would like to investigate the possibility to fit a Li ion with a properly charge system (inside the unit or outside through the 12VDC).

author: marshallh
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 11, 2014, 04:21:46 am
content: Regarding the firmware if I still had my ths720a I would dump it for you. However it may be possible to upgrade with a PC serial port connection app. You'll have a build a cable first and run the software in a VM

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 11, 2014, 12:54:03 pm
content: Thank youmarshallh, it would be fantastic. I would love to get my hands on the 1.16 FW (according to my investigation this is the latest released FW by Tektronix) and surely a lot of people out there will love that.Quote from: marshallh on August 11, 2014, 04:21:46 amI have the RJ-45 to Sub-D9 RS232 cable, I mean this one:http://www.tek.com/support/faqs/what-pin-out-ths700-rj45-connector-rs232What app are is the one you are talking about? I searched in the www but no hope to find anything related to your suggestion. Is a VM a Linux Virtual Machine? If yes I have a FreeBSD box which should do the job.

author: SoundTech-LG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2014, 06:19:43 pm
content: Nice teardown photos!I also did the Eneloop Pro NiMh mod. Blows NiCd out of the water!!!

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 08, 2015, 01:18:02 pm
content: Looks like now we have the schematics...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-ths700-tekscope-component-level-information-package-and-schematic/

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2015, 02:05:03 pm
content: Quote from: marshallh on August 11, 2014, 04:21:46 amI bought your THS720A, marshallh . If it is of interest, I could try to dump the firmware. I have not figured out the serial connection yet, though.What is the difference between FW 1.14 and 1.16?I also have the Service Manual for the THS 710 & THS 720 (no "A") TekScope 070-9246-03 if it is of interest to anyone the get a copy.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 10, 2015, 02:47:24 pm
content: Quote from: nixxon on June 10, 2015, 02:05:03 pmhttp://www1.tek.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6499&sid=877fe8805d6d2c8dd8540e62e3f2365alooks like we (you and me) are not alone, but the question is still open.Quote from: nixxon on June 10, 2015, 02:05:03 pmMaybe the schematics can help us....I am still interested, unfortunately I have to close up other projects before to continue this one. Keep us posted please.

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2015, 07:41:58 pm
content: sieral connection pin out can be found here:http://www.tek.com/support/faqs/what-pin-out-ths700-rj45-connector-rs232

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2015, 07:45:07 pm
content: Quote from: zucca on June 10, 2015, 02:47:24 pm

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2015, 08:31:52 pm
content: Quote from: R_G_B_ on June 10, 2015, 07:41:58 pmI have tried thesomewhat ambigouspinout you link to (at tek.com/support) and multiple other pinout variants, unfortunately with no success. If anyone has a working THS700-series rj45-DB9* cable and could measure all pins at both ends, I would be grateful. Anyone?*DB-9 is actually a DE-9 (9-pin connector with an E size shell), according tohttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2015, 09:31:21 pm
content: Another usefull link:http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/THS700

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2015, 09:52:29 pm
content: ,

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2015, 10:48:55 pm
content: p2 Orange D8P3 Black D4p4 RED D3P5 GREEN D1P6 Yellow D9P7 Blue D2P8 Brown D8R_G_B

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 07:54:15 am
content: I may be wrong with regards to the firmware:http://ko4bb.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=test_equipment:tds_series_firmware

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 07:59:32 am
content: ThanksR_G_B, I was just going to double check that. It looks like the 1.16 goes also on the THS720a too.Oh man I need a day with 48 hours to work on all my projects... can´t wait to start again on this one.

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 09:57:53 am
content: Quote from: R_G_B_ on June 10, 2015, 10:48:55 pmIs the left column in your table ("p2" etc.) the RJ45 pins and the right column ("D8" etc.) the DB9 connector pins?Is your table based on a continuity test of a working cable?If so, the actual wiring of a working cable is totally different from the answer on Tektronix FAQ :http://www.tek.com/support/faqs/what-pin-out-ths700-rj45-connector-rs232I have illustrated a cable that I made a while ago that doesn't work, based on the Tektronix FAQ.EDIT: THE RJ45 CONNECTOR IN THE ILLUSTRATION HASWRONGA REVERSEDPIN NUMBERING.When I was trying to get this to work a year or two ago, I tried various pinouts. Based on a post on the tektronix forum, I also tried to swap the DCD and DSR pins of the RJ-45 connector (pins 1 and 2). It did not work.Athttp://www1.tek.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5449JeanPaul wrote:Quote

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 10:05:44 am
content: Quote from: nixxon on June 11, 2015, 09:57:53 amI have a tested OK cable, let me know if you need the pinouts...

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 10:32:51 am
content: Quote from: zucca on June 11, 2015, 10:05:44 amI would be really be happy if you could measure your working cable and present your findings here

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 11:29:18 am
content: Quote from: nixxon on June 11, 2015, 09:57:53 amYes to all your questions with the D connector pin numbers in reverse order to the tektronix illustration R_G_B

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 11:33:35 am
content: Quote from: R_G_B_ on June 11, 2015, 11:29:18 amGreat! ThanksIs the numbering of both connector pins the same as shown in my illustration 4 posts above?

author: z01z
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 11:42:28 am
content: Not likely, as D5 (GND) is missing. There should be a line P4-D5.However there is P5-D1, which indicates that both connectors are numbered in reverse order.Edit: there is also a RJ-45 Connector pinout in the user manual:1 DCD2 DSR3 DTR4 GND5 RXD6 TXD7 CTS8 RTS

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 12:03:03 pm
content: Quote from: z01z on June 11, 2015, 11:42:28 amWhen I reverse R_G_B_'s numbering of both connectors, the measured pins by R_G_B_ matches the info on the Tek FAQ. Pin 8 (on RJ-45) seems not to be connected though.So, when unscrambled the R_G_B_ values are:RJ-45 --> DB-91 -------> 72 -------> 43 -------> 64 -------> 55 -------> 36 -------> 27 -------> 78 -------> not connectedThere should be continuity between RJ-45 pins 1 and 7Could anyone please check if there is continuity between DB-9 pins 1 and 8?And if RJ-45 pin 8 is connected to DB-9 pin 1 and/or pin 8?

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 07:10:23 pm
content: Quote from: zucca on June 11, 2015, 07:59:32 amMy THS720A info screen says "Version: FV:v.1.16", "Wed Dec 16 11:48:07 PST 1998".If it is possible to dump firmware by the RS-232 connection, I will give my RJ-45 <---> DB-9 cable another try when I get back home on Sunday after sailingThe Færderen* 2015 - hmm, I wonder if the King** will participate this year...*the world's largest overnight regatta:http://www.færdern.com/index.php/nb/home-english** King Harald V of Norwayhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harald_V_of_Norway

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 07:19:44 pm
content: I used these scopes a lot, sometimes more than one, to capture signals in vehicles.But it was not so easy to capture the screen data and the official Tek software sucked big time.I found a small piece of software once to make a relative fast screen shot to .JPG from the RS232 port.It worked very well.If anyone is interested, let me know and I will upload it somewhere.The only problem hardware problem with these scopes are the rechargeable batteriesThe original is really expensive and -I think- not even available any more.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 07:26:58 pm
content: @NixxonI am currently en route to Oslo aboard Fred Olsen's MS Balmoral. We arrive 09:30 tomorrow morning for the Regatta and stay overnight .... looking forward to seeing all the boatsAurora

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 07:44:04 pm
content: Quote from: Aurora on June 11, 2015, 07:26:58 pmThat is cool. I wish you a nice trip to Oslo. According to marinetraffic.com, you andMS Balmoralare currently at position N57º47', E008º33.5' South East of Kristiansand, heading 35º at a calm 11.5 knots. Tomorrow there will be many sails on the fjord. We will sail by MS Balmoral besideAkershus-Fortressbetween 14:30 and 14:39 as we try to get a good starting position for our class start at 14:40. The starting line is just to the West of your ship and East of Aker Brygge wharf:http://www.visitoslo.com/en/activities-and-attractions/attractions/?TLp=282572&Aker-BrYgge-wharf

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2015, 09:52:57 pm
content: If its possible to dump the firmware from the 720p so that you get the additional power measurement options if at all possible?The firmware for the THS720P is shown on the screen as:THS720P version 1.6 wed Dec 16 11:48:07 1998R_G_B

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 12, 2015, 07:43:51 am
content: Quote from: nixxon on June 11, 2015, 07:10:23 pmThat would be cool, moreover I want to try to desolder U1 and dump it out... Finally Weekend is here... and I will work on this.Z

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2015, 04:24:35 pm
content: There s a port on the actual PCB underneath the touch pad along side the inverter board have you seen it?R_G_B

author: z01z
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2015, 04:28:14 pm
content: Quote from: nixxon on June 11, 2015, 12:03:03 pmI've checked my cable and it is exactly the same as in the Tek FAQ, except that the RJ45 is reversed. As if the layout pictured the RJ45 socket in the scope, from the outside - or the plug looked at from above with pins on the top, the cable on the bottom and the locking tab underneath and not from the front as the picture shows.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2015, 04:49:27 pm
content: This is the flat-cable and adapter, that came with my THS-720PPin 9 is not connected at all.

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2015, 08:12:03 am
content: Quote from: z01z on June 13, 2015, 04:28:14 pmThat is very interesting news. If you are right, there is no wonder why my cable didn't work.Now I will have to make a new cable with connectors that are wired like this:RJ-45 --> DB-98 -------> 77 -------> 46 -------> 65 -------> 54 -------> 33 -------> 22 -------> 71 -------> 1 & 8EDIT: It seems that I have managed to base my earlier illustration (in reply #17) on a drawing that shows the wrong RJ-45 pin numbers. My bad.I will dig out the cable that I made a while back and check if the RJ-45 connector end of this cable is reversed or not.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 15, 2015, 08:53:17 am
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on June 13, 2015, 04:49:27 pmThanksHighVoltage, you save me to do the same this WE.nixxonI am now curious , does it work now?

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2015, 03:30:09 pm
content: Comparing the firmware 1.08 to 1.6 you can see the update speed on the later firmware 1.6 seems faster. Maybe a couple of performance enhancement with regards to waveform update and responsiveness of the UI.R_G_B

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 15, 2015, 03:46:13 pm
content: Quote from: R_G_B_ on June 15, 2015, 03:30:09 pmI am temped to ship to you my 1.14 and see if you can find any differences... Problem: my THS is now in 2 boxes, after the tear down I never put it back together...I am finishing my new lab bench and it is taking forever....

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2015, 04:11:24 pm
content: The 720a I have the version 1.08 0f the firmware. Tektronix dont seem to have mentioned the details of each firmware revision.

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 02:17:49 pm
content: Looking around the net regards to firmware I found this interesting link:http://jnaudin.free.fr/meg/ths720p.htmR_G_B

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 02:34:18 pm
content: So, it is not True RMS.What a surprise, I did not know this about the THS720P.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 02:38:48 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on June 17, 2015, 02:34:18 pmSame here... thanksR_G_Bfor the head´s up.

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 06:12:12 pm
content: I think they were referring to this project:http://jnaudin.free.fr/meg/megv21.htmR_G_B

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2015, 10:28:34 pm
content: Quote from: zucca on June 15, 2015, 08:53:17 amI finally found the cable that I made a while back. I measured the pins, and it is wired according to the TEK FAQ. The cable itself actually seems to work. In PuTTY, when I enter the string "*IDN?", the return string is "TEKTRONIX, THS720A, 0, CF:91.1CT FV:v1.16".Now I remember that the problem was to get Tektronix Instrument Manager Service to connect to the scope. I get the following error message no matter what I do: "Device proxy (<whatever name I gave the connection">) is running but the attached hardware is not responding. Response string is ()"info table reads:Connection: ASRL1::INSTRPermissions: RWVSW Status: StartingHW Status: ConnectingIt does not matter if the scope and/or cable is connected or not.Both the scope and the PC is set to default values:Baud rate: 9600Data bits: 8 (on PC)Stop bits: 1Flow control: NoneFlagging: Hard flagging ON, Soft flagging OFF (on scope)EOL / Terminator: LFDelay/Timeout: 0s / NoneAny tips on how to make Tektronix Instrument Manager recognise the scope?EDIT: I am using TekVISA v. 3.3.4 that came with the most recent WaveStar installer. In Windows 7 you have to use TekVISA v. 4.0.0 or later. Now I will uninstall existing TekVISA and install v. 4.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 07:49:13 am
content: Quote from: nixxon on June 25, 2015, 10:28:34 pmI had many problems with the Tektronix Instrument Manager and remember calling Tektronix in those days a lot for help.But it never worked in a reliable way.At the end of the day I just needed to save the screen shots and for that I used a different software that worked extremely well.Then I never went back to the Tektronix Instrument Manager.At one time I got the LabView drives and integrated the scope in to LabView, which also worked perfectly.That LabView driver even worked in DasyLab.

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 08:54:13 am
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on June 26, 2015, 07:49:13 amThank you for your tips. First I will try installing TekVISA v. 4

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 10:42:37 am
content: It works nowIt was the outdated version of TekVISA on a Windows 7 PC that was the problem.With TekVISA v.4, all is good

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 12:58:55 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on June 11, 2015, 07:19:44 pmI am interested in this cute little software. Do you still have it available for upload?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 02:09:33 pm
content: I would also be interested in the little software app to capture the screen.Best WishesAurora

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 08:46:02 pm
content: This is the original page that has the screen capture program:www.bobblick.com/techref/projects/ths720/ths720.htmlThe URL is long gone but you can still see it using the Way Back Machine. I used the tek.exe program for many years with my THS720.I have attached the Dos/Windows versions, a Linux perl version(remove the .txt) and the original qbasic source code(again remove the .txt). All of it is credited to the original creator Bob Blick.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 08:51:58 pm
content: The screen capture program that I liked so much is not from Bob Blick.I am traveling right now, will upload it tomorrow with some screen shots.

author: nixxon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 10:39:12 pm
content: Quote from: TheSteve on June 26, 2015, 08:46:02 pmIt seems that the URL is still workingbobblick.com/techref/projects/ths720/ths720.htmlEDIT 2019-AUG-23: Removed "www" from the above link to make it work.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2015, 11:17:43 am
content: The screen capture software that I have been using since 1999 is calledWinTek32and was made by Martin Lafferty under the company name of "Production Robots 1997" in England. In those days I was in contact with Martin and he added a few features for me.The latest Version that he release, is the attached one v2.0.5.21(I am pretty sure it was freeware at the time, so it should not be a problem, if I am posting the software here.)I Just hooked it up this morning on my THS720P and it worked flawlessly right away on my old trusted IBM T43P.Once installed correctly, you just press the hardcopy button on the scope and the transfer starts.The beauty about the RS232 connection is that it stays connected, even if you disconnect the wire and hook it up to another scope. At times when I had to take a lot of pictures from several scopes, I just had a rotary switch hooked up to different scopes and switched the serial connection between them.Another good feature about the software was the fact, that you could add a custom text to the screen shot at a position of your choice. With a "#" sign in the target file, you can save numbered sequences of your file.Here are a few screen shots and the software attached.Enjoy.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2015, 12:47:39 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on June 27, 2015, 11:17:43 amComplementing HighVoltage's post on WinTek32, attached below in PDF WinTek32 documentation.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2015, 01:13:13 pm
content: Thanks GuysAurora

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2015, 08:49:41 pm
content: There is a nice old "fan page" about the THS scopes that I had forgotten about and just found in my notes.http://warped.org/tek/It looks like all the following manuals are still available there:tektronix-ths710-programming-manual.pdf.zip 070-9245-00 Programming Manual THS710, THS720tektronix-ths710-reference.pdf.zip 070-9257-00 Reference Manual THS710, THS720tektronix-ths710-service.pdf.zip 070-9246-03 Service Manual THS710, THS720tektronix-ths710-user-manual.pdf.zip 070-9247-02 Users Manual THS710, THS720tektronix-ths7xxA-programming-manual.pdf.zip 070-9751-01 Programming Manual THS710A, THS720A, THS730A, THS720Ptektronix-ths7xxA-release-notes.pdf.zip 061-4241-00 Release Notes THS720A, THS720P, THS730Atektronix-ths7xxA-reference.pdf.zip 070-9741-01 Reference Manual THS710A, THS720A, THS730A, THS720Ptektronix-ths7xxA-service.pdf.zip 070-9752-01 Service Manual THS710A, THS720A, THS730A, THS720Ptektronix-ths720A-service-2.pdf.zip 070-9750-02 Service Manual Supplement THS720A MOD NVtektronix-ths7xxA-user-manual.pdf.zip 070-9731-05 User Manual THS710A, THS720A, THS730A, THS720P

author: posplayr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 02:57:17 am
content: Hi gang,I was reintroduced to this site while looking for ways to upgrade my THS730A. This thread in particular was very interesting especially the battery replacement options. After considering what was posted (maybe someone else already has done this) I decided rather than replace the expensive battery pack with another aftermarket Ni-Cd pack and also rather than go AA Ni-MH I found some relatively inexpensive C size Ni-MH (500 mAhr as compared to the 2800 OEM pack).You can such on Amazon for Clear PCV shrink tubing:2M 43mm 27mm Dia PVC Heat Shrink Tubing Clear for 1 x 26650 Battery ($6.06 with Amazon Prime FREE shipping)I also thought these would be worth a shot; My scope sits on the bench a lot and so I don't really need to take it into the field and expect 10 hours everyday. Beside, I have enough PVC shrink tubing to redo the battery pack several times.EBL 5000mAh High Capacity Ni-MH Rechargeable C ($17.99 with Amazon Prime FREE shipping).I just cut the PVC cover off of my old battery pack (Circa 1995), prised the metal tab off the positive post that had been welded. Reassembled in sections starting with the two inner batteries. After a little trial and error, it is best to shrink in the ends before trying to shrink the center. It pulls the two 1/2 together.The starting point:Assembled two middle batteries, being sure to extend past the ends to pull them together.Finished product; there are 4 layers of PVC is most areas.Quick look running without the charger. The batteries came with just over 4.6V with the series pack. After inserting the pack into the scope, the LOW BATTERY indication quickly came on. I charged them for a while and went back to show that the indicator stayed off (i.e. the internal charger is working). Basically this cost me $24. Even if the batteries do not work out, I can upgrade for a modest cost. The process seems to work and there is no need to solder or weld if you have an original battery. If not then a thin brass sheet would work well to replace the stainless .No need for welding, the stainless strap is held in place with the PVC wrap.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 09:21:31 am
content: How did you re-connect the metal straps to the new batteries?

author: posplayr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 04:28:37 pm
content: The original post has an added picture (at the end) showing the strap.I opened up the inner PVC cover of the OEM battery after completing this and saw that each battery has a tab welded between it's neighbor. Seemed overkill and perhaps why the pack costs so much. The flexible metal of the tabs is not stainless so it invites more corrosion between batteries but given the welds that doesn't matter much.I do not see the need to weld the tabs to the battery ends except in the most caustic environments which my scope never sees and I doubt most never will either. The PVC does quiet well holding the pack in alignment and the battery lives in a battery compartment under axial pressure so there is plenty of contact pressure to flow the 1 odd amp that is required.The resting voltage was 5.6V after charging overnight. If I get bored I might do a run down test but that is a big "if". Regardless, of the result, the methods appears to hold C size batteries together without welding. If you do not have the strap and use brass you only need to solder the length wise strap to the band. The PVC wrap will hold the rest in place.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 04:33:45 pm
content: Nice job !I have the batteries, metal strips and tab welder to do the same. I must get around to that this year. I am fortunate to still have spare working batteries, but they are getting quire old now so new ones would be a good idea.Thanks for sharing your rebuild.Fraser

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 04:44:45 pm
content: This is indeed a really nice way to prepare the batteries for the scopeAt the moment I still have one good battery working with an original charger.But the time will come to upgrade the scopes.

author: posplayr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 05:34:32 pm
content: Thanks guysAlthough I don't feel it is nessesary from to weld taps for this application from either an electrical or structural perspective here is a video of a home made spot welder.I did not realize these were so cheap. I guess if you are going to setup production then it might be a good thing to have.AC220V 18650 Battery Point Welder Machine Welding Machine Mini Notebook Mobilehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/AC220V-18650-Battery-Point-Welder-Machine-Welding-Machine-Mini-Notebook-Mobile/391322379449?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D777000%26algo%3DABA.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35006%26meid%3D867f670f564b4fa48c4070d375c7064a%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D311446206476

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 06:11:35 pm
content: That is the model of tab welder I bought. It works really well and you only need to file the hard drawn copper electrodes to keep it producing excellent welds. Electrodes are just hard drawn copper wire and so easy to replace.IIRC I run my unit on setting 20 to 25 but the unit goes all the way to setting 40. I find my house circuit breaker pops at anything above 35 though.I reviewed the contents of the unit in a thread on this forum. Pictures included. It is a transformer based tab welder with TRIAC control.IIRC my tab welder cost me around GBP80 delivered to the UK. I wouldn't be without it now. I use it to add tabs to many memory backup Lithium button cells and for rebuilding expensive battery packs for my thermal cameras. The unit paid for itself after rebuilding one FLIR PM series pack that costs over GBP200 + VAT new. I have around 20 such battery packs !Fraser

author: posplayr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 06:55:34 pm
content: Thanks for the added info; glad I stumbled back in hereGiven my prior ebay shopping patterns, I might have bought a cheap Chinese USB scope and taken a big step backward from my THS730A!BTW, I contacted Tektronix about a replacement zero adjust knob for my A622 Current Clamp. Apparently there is one coming in the mail for free. First time I asked for anything after buying the scope 20 years ago.I need to find a A622 break down thread that deals with high battery current consumption. Mine started to pull the 9V battery down real fast, but still runs off a power supply hooked to the 9V contacts.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 08:18:28 pm
content: I have used a thermal imaging camera to view a PCB that was eating batteries. It was quickly clear that one chip was running hot. It turned out to be the cause of the fault. Do you know anyone who can use a thermal camera on your probes PCB?The alternative is to systematically isolate the active parts of the PCB in an effort to see which component is drawing the lions share of the operating current. Tantalum capacitors can fail and load supply rails. In such a case, a thermal camera would reveal the effect rather than the cause, as other components on the supply line to the capacitor may warm up.Fraser

author: posplayr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 09:37:43 pm
content: Good idea on the thermal imager. I was aware that caps can go out but not really any idea on how to isolate other than change them all out. I don't have a thermal imager, but do have a HF handheld unit that I might be able to scan on the board to detect a temp rise.http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-infrared-thermometer-with-laser-targeting-60725.htmlBTW, the complementary zero adjust knob from Tektronix just arrived in the mail today

author: hibone
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2016, 02:32:37 am
content: Hi there, when replacing the original battery, what do you use?IIR each C-sized battery can be replaced with 4 AAA sized ones.If thats the case, and taking into account that the internal charger is a trickle one (if I'm not mistaken), do you think it would be possible to replace the whole batteries with 16 AAA eneloop batterys (or similar hybrid nimh) and charge them within the scope?

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2016, 02:49:36 am
content: Had anyone ever measure the trickle charge current ?The original cells are nicd, which is more forgiving than nimh cell, and one of the reason I use the detachable method so I can charge externally each at proper nimh charger.

author: posplayr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2016, 06:19:46 am
content: Good question, I guess I side the stepped of battery charging issue. The packaging works regardless of using Ni-CD or Ni-HM.don't know what precautions you take with AA Ni-MH batteries in your THD7xx but it sounds like you never run the device with the DC charge input connected? Whatever charge rates an AA Ni-MH would have the C size is going to be about 1/2 the charge rate. (2500 Amp-Hr v.s. 5000 Amp-hr)In the first post Zucca stated:Quoteaccording to the formula the max charging current at 3.8V is .57 amps or 0.2C for a 2800 mAmp-Hr or 0.11C for a 5000 mAmp-Hr.According to:http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_nickel_metal_hydrideQuoteSo the optimum charging rate for the Ni-CD and the Ni-MH is the same, but the apparently the Full charge detection is much more difficult and trickle charging is different.However, this statement suggest that putting in a 5000 Ni-MH v.s. 2800 NiCd Amp-Hr battery is OK as we can probablyassumethat Tektronix put a quality charger into the scope and it trickle charges at C/10 as (the recommended optimum) That would put the 5000 NiMH at 2800/5000*.1=0.056C very close to the recommendation for trickle charging a NiMH.QuoteI left the NiMH in the THS730A overnight last night charging and the pack was only luke warm this morning. This is apparently OK.There is this warning, so it is probably best to unplug the charger from the Scope when left off for extended periods. The built in NiCd charger is probably going to be worse on a AA battery than the higher capacity C size as the AA will be charging at close to twice the C rate.The bottom line is that while I'm not going to get optimum performance out of the batteries using the built in NiCD charger, it is still going to charge the NiMH C pack within nominal recommendations and will probably only cause an issue if left for weeks on the charger without using the scope. That is easily avoided by unplugging the DC charger input to the scope.I just checked in my Hardcase case and I see I have an extra battery pack (dated 1998 the first was 1995) and I also have the TEK-Scope battery charger. I guess I could open it up and convert it to a fast charge NiCD charger (another project?)To a certain extent, using the AA batteries because you can charge them in a real external NiMH charger causes a problem with excessive trickle charge rates if those same batteries are left in the scope. On the other hand if you put Type C NiMH batteries with higher capacity, the charge rates are slower (as would be expected) but closer to acceptable trickle charging rate of the Ni-MH battery technology.There is certainly nothing prohibiting converting the the external charger to NiMH and then if you are working a lot on battery power with the scope, you can much more quickly recharge the pack off grid.I have a Tenergy TB6B Intelligent charger that I could probably adapt to do a 4 cell NiMH effectively and just not bother to modify the internal charger.http://www.tenergy.com/01321Comments welcome, but with a small amount of care, there should be no issues leaving the battery pack in the scope overnight, just not indefinitely.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2016, 07:27:52 am
content: As I posted at 2nd post in this thread, I use the AA -> C adapter and built the batt pack, ghetto mod and not pretty though, with lots of hot glue and shrink tubing, but it works flawlessly.As the adapter designed, I can open the pack to replace the AA cells without having to lug many of the long, huge C sized 4 cells tubes as spare when working at the field.Good LSD AA cells like Eneloop brand are enough to provide similar capacity as the original C sized NiCd cells, and also its convenient to carry many of them pre-charged inside the scope's bag.Too bad I don't have my batt tube with me now, will post the photo of it once I had the chance.To give you a clue, these picture below are the AA -> C adapters that I used to build the batt tube, it has latch sideway to access the AA cells inside for replacement of the depleted cells.

author: posplayr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2016, 08:49:07 am
content: I pulled the Quad "C" pack out of the scope and put into the external Tek-Scope "Fast NiCAD Battery charger". The pack was already pretty well charged (from the night before) as despite leaving the scope on it goes to sleep and I have not rigged a good resistive load yet to bleed it down.I used the HF infrared thermometer to monitor the temperature. The red LED on the charger started and the battery pack warmed up to luke warm. With teh charger being about 80 degF (the drywall behind at 72 degF) the battery rose to about 94 degF at center and closer to high 80's at the ends. The feel was consistent with what I discovered this morning when pulling the battery out of the scope after charging all night.After about another 1/2 hour the battery mid section which gets hotest was at about 104 degF. It was not so hot that you could not hold it firmly. About luke warm. After a while longer the green charger light came on and I pulled the battery pack. By this time the charger was in float and the temperature dropped back to about 97 degF.I pulled the pack and reinserted it into the charger and the LED went back red as if to restart a new charge cycle. I opened up the charger and there is a little PIC processor in there.I just ordered another set of same batteries for $17.99 shipped so I'll have a backup as well. Plenty of PVC shrink wrap left.

author: hibone
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2016, 10:36:19 pm
content: I think 4 of these battery holders would do. Now the only problem is to find a nickel/brass/copper strip or whatever.16 Eneloop batteries will cost almost half the price of the original battery but I guess they will last a heck of time, and can be recharged within the scope.

author: posplayr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2016, 06:22:25 am
content: I think you will be hard pressed to pay less than the 4 NI-MH C cells @ 5000 mA-Hr,($18) not requiring holders and they are far less likely to overcharge in the scope. On top of that they have more capacity. Am I missing something?

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 18, 2016, 06:30:43 am
content: Eneloops have a very low self discharge so the meter can sit a long time and still be powered by previously charged batteries. At the cost difference though I think I'd lean more towards the 4 cheap C cells or just use 4 2500mAh AA cells as they still offer good run time and are pretty cheap.

author: hibone
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2016, 09:09:08 am
content: Quote from: posplayr on January 18, 2016, 06:22:25 amThere is what TheSteve says about eneloops.Also, if I am not mistaken, eneloops should operate much longer before they wear out (10 years or so), with respect to standard ni-mh.I am thinking of 4 AAA batteries, in place of one C-sized cells, because as far as i remember, each C-side cell is made out of 4 AAA sized batteries all the same. Also eneloops seem to have a much more consistent voltage, with respect to other batteries, thus they are less prone to equalization problems when charged in parallel. Thus they can be charged within the scope, without disassembly the battery.Of course there's the problem with the charge current, as well. That is the reason why I feel that replacing a C cell with one AA it won't do well.Indeed the price it is high, maybe I should look for some cheaper replacement with respect to eneloops. In the end Sanyo is not the only one that makes hybrid nimh cells.Well of course, all of this may be not worth the while.

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2016, 01:27:09 pm
content: Hello,I had a go at using four AA eneloop batteries using a C cell adaptor. The problem is there's no room to close the cap on the top of the THS720 DSO.Maybe its the type of C cell adapters I am using:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Newest-Panasonic-eneloop-C-Size-Spacer-4-Pack-Battery-AA-Cell-Adapter-Converter-/221993148950?hash=item33afd2a216:g:KaQAAOSwI-BWHRPYThanksR_G_B

author: posplayr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2016, 10:35:19 pm
content: I would be wary of running AA batteries with the scope's NiCD charger as they are generally only about 2200 mA-hr v.s the C cell which is 5000 mA-hr. The C cell got a little more than lukewarm at 105 deg in a 72 degree room as per my tests) when charging in an open case Charger designed for a NiCD battery at .2C charge rate.If you stick a 2200mA-hr AA battery (in a C adapter) in it's stead in the enclosed case of the Scope I don't know what temperature the battery will get to but it would certainly be a concern and possible thermal runaway???. Remember this a NiCD charger named "fast charge" operating on a Ni-MH. Not a good thing.As I described before the 5000 mA-hr C cell effectively drops the "C" charge rate in 1/2 providing a substantial margin to avoid stressing and heating of the battery due the design spec of the NiCD charger for the 2800 mAmp hr NiCD C cells.

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 18, 2016, 11:17:08 pm
content: We've had no issues with excess heat using 2500 mAh Eneloops cells. We only use the scopes built in charger and not the external fast charger. The factory battery was rated at 2800 mAh and was probably closer to 2000 after a few uses anyway, so I see no issue with the internal trickle charger.

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2016, 11:21:39 pm
content: I was trying to use AA 2500mah.R_G_B

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 18, 2016, 11:39:01 pm
content: Quote from: R_G_B_ on January 18, 2016, 11:21:39 pmThe battery door on our THS730A will just close - but it is a tight squeeze!

author: posplayr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2016, 12:48:13 am
content: Quote from: TheSteve on January 18, 2016, 11:17:08 pmOK Well that is good to know. I know some people were rationalizing the AA so they could be charged separately on a proper Ni-MH charger. I also did not know that the external charger had a faster charge rate than the internal? I would have thought the trickle phase would have been the same for either and so it would be twice as much as you would want for the NiMH without the increased capacity.I bought a second set of C cells so for $40 I have two battery NiMH packs of 5000 mA-hr rating.

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 19, 2016, 12:58:57 am
content: Unless I somehow totally missed it the internal charger on the THS7xx series is trickle only. The external charger is a fast type charger which should use a negative delta V (peak detect) which is unsuitable and shouldn't be used for NiMH cells(they have a much smaller drop when charged).Unless of course the charger is horribly designed and uses a timer, I haven't opened the one here.

author: posplayr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2016, 02:06:25 am
content: Quote from: TheSteve on January 19, 2016, 12:58:57 amI don't know; the OP claimed to have "reverse engineer the battery charger" I assumed they meant the one inside of the scope. Using his numbers it would be charging at C/5.QuoteTo which I added in a prior post.Quote

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2016, 09:24:30 am
content: I just opened my original Tektronix external charger and took some pictures.Here you go:

author: posplayr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2016, 12:38:05 am
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on January 19, 2016, 09:24:30 amLooks like the one I charged the NiMH "C" cell stack with as reported above.The little PIC controller tells me it must be "smart"

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2016, 08:54:16 pm
content: Heres very simple mod to allow the use of eneloop 2500mah batteries:AA to C converters two of them cut down.Paper clipTapemulti strand WireThe multi strand wire will push its-self against the cap no problems with this at all even if you give the scope a firm shake everything is a tight fit and stays in place.R_G_B

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 17, 2016, 08:38:31 am
content: Quote from: posplayr on January 19, 2016, 02:06:25 amRight! I had the 12V DC External plugged in and a DC Load (BK Precision 8500) instead the battery. I was simply going up and down with the V on the DC Load and tracking down the current the internal scope charger was spitting out.Those 5000mAh C size look sexy!Anyway my dream is to mod the battery door into a little PCB:- get rid of that funky OEM battery + terminal- support for Li-Ion Cells (according to my investigation 3 cells could fit just right...)- Leds on the outside for the State of charge- Switch(light sensor) for the display back light (why has to go always on? that´s such a waste...)and yes probably it would be not water splash proof anymore... I can survive with it.I started to dig into the schematics to understad if I can mod the internal charger circuit so I have to do less circuit on the battery door.In the not P models there is also plenty of room for another PCB above the scope middle, but holy cow I'm scared for EMI...It´s not easy.

author: posplayr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2016, 05:57:30 am
content: Quote from: zucca on February 17, 2016, 08:38:31 amThanks for the confirmation on the charge rate. I have not burned my lab down yet so the 5000 mA-hr must be good right?

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 09, 2016, 07:19:47 am
content: Quote from: posplayr on March 09, 2016, 05:57:30 amI think so, don´t see any down side on the 5000 mAh/hr. Yea the eneloop hold the charge for very long period of time, but I think I will always charging up the scope the day before going in the field. In cases of emergencies they are not eneloop but they are not the opposite neither, so I think they will still be reasonabily charged up also after a year or so.

author: hibone
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2016, 04:51:16 pm
content: Dear all,In my device, the "gentleman" who assembled the scope, left the flat flex cable of the LCD in the battery holder. As a result, the cable broke just when I needed the scope.I suppose a replacement can be found pretty easily, but I am no expert, thus I wonder what aspects I should look for.To me the cable appear as a 12 way 1mm pitch flat flex ribbon 9 cm long.The pitch and the number of ways cannot change, of course, but I dunno if thickness and the length have to be the same as well.In a printer I found a flat flex cable, 5cm long, with 50 ways or so. This cable is also a little more thick than the original. I cut out the 12 ways I needed, and put the cable in place.Well, the screen lit on, but it remained blue without showing anything.Now I wonder about the reason.I dunno if the problem is due to:- the pins that may be oxidized.- the fact that the cable is not an original 12-way cable and the pins end out of place?- the thickness, that may cause the cable not to touch correctly on the pinsAlso, if I put on the original broken cable, and pinch it over the cut with my fingers, so that the broken ends of the cable touch, something is shown on the LCD.Sorry for the much details. Please if you have any suggestion tell me.PS.Out of curiosity I "naively" asked Tektronix the spare part.- "We are sorry but the part you request is out of production. However you can send your device for repair to our service center in Cologne." (I live in Italy)- "How much would it cost?"- 1k € plus shipping

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2016, 05:53:05 pm
content: Quote from: hibone on April 18, 2016, 04:51:16 pmI have even heard, that when you send it to Cologne, it will be forwarded to the US for repair.Anyhow, can you repair the cable?Just get the insulation removed and fine solder it together?May be you have a picture?

author: hibone
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2016, 07:33:19 pm
content: Actually, I cleaned the replacement cable with isopropyl alcohol and then everything worked just fine.I tried to remove the insulation with fine sandpaper but it seemed quite hard not damaging the rest of it.Honestly I didn't feel all that comfortable about a repaired cable there. Thus I abandoned the idea.The original cable is about 9 cm and should be folded under the lcd monitor, which has a metal shield.A soldered joint there may have safety and reliability issues.Hope my previous post can be of use to the forum.Thanks anyway.

author: jcd06
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 15, 2016, 02:00:50 pm
content: Hi folks,I've bought a secondhand THS720 lately and I found this exelent discussion while I was looking for some documentation.I would like to be able to send screenshots to the PC and I could see here the different RG-45-to-DB9 cable pinouts discussed.Unfortunately it's a bit unclear for me which of the pinouts is the definitive/right one.Can someone point it out for me please?Thanks,Jean

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2016, 03:26:32 pm
content: Here you go for the original connector:I made my own wire, because the original cable is sooo stiff.RJ45 Wire Color Function 9 pin (female)1 (Brown) DCD- Data Carrier Detect 7 - RTS2 (Blue) DSR- Data Set Ready 4 - DTR3 (Yellow) DTR - Data Terminal Ready 6 - DSR4 (Green) GND - Signal Ground 5 - GND5 (Red) RXD - Receive Data 3 - TXD6 (Black) TXD - Transmit Data 2 - RXD7 (Orange) CTS - Clear To Send 7 - RTS8 (Gray) RTS - Request To Send 1&8 - DCD/CTS

author: TurboTom
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2016, 11:53:25 pm
content: Hacking the THS 700 series works perfectly well!...just converted a THS710A to a THS720PAt 100MHz I measured a level drop of about 0.9dB. Didn't bother to measure the 3dB frequency. Also power measurements work (firmware 1.14 on mine).If you have a 710A, just remove resistors R207, R213 and R205 (to make it a 720P) or R204 (to make it a 720A). Hacking it into a THS730A isn't easily possible since other front-end hybrids would be required among some other stuff.Cheers,Thomas

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 12:08:19 am
content: Be interesting to see what each firmware does... I have a 720A firmware 1.03 I think it is. Also is there anyway to grab the latest firmware and has anyone attempted it yet?

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 05:49:05 am
content: Quote from: TurboTom on November 18, 2016, 11:53:25 pmWow , thank you Thomas !Mind share how you figure that out ? By comparing ?I have 710A with 1.11 firmware, as R_G_B above, anyone know how to upgrade it ?

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 06:49:00 am
content: Quote from: R_G_B_ on November 19, 2016, 12:08:19 amgive me 2 more days

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 10:16:07 am
content: Quote from: TurboTom on November 18, 2016, 11:53:25 pmCrazy the amount of money you can make on just a couple of resistors!Now Watch the eBay sale price on these go through the roof.I remember the fluke 120 series you could buy a used one on eBay around 100 pounds. Forget that now they go for up to £600 for a 123 and around a £1000 now for a fluke 124 or 125. Insane!

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 10:46:34 am
content: TurboTomThat hack is great.I have a few "none P" versions and will try it out.Thanks so much

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 11:01:54 am
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on November 19, 2016, 10:46:34 amHighVoltage, please, if its not too troublesome, do photos documentation and share it here, preferably before and after the mod.I believe this mod will attract many of this Tek THS7x0x owners.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 11:17:55 am
content: Damn, I'm so excited, here the resistors locations, photo courtesy of Zucca's teardown.

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 03:34:34 pm
content: Please could you post the screen capture of a 710A or 720A showing as a 720P in power analyser mode.Thanks

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 03:36:11 pm
content: Also how easy would it be to get the firmware off of one of these things ?

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 05:20:43 pm
content: Quote from: R_G_B_ on November 19, 2016, 03:36:11 pmIn my eyes very easy. J1 is the magical connector (Molex 15-92-2480, to be confirmed)which give access to theQuotewhich has the FW in it. A TL866 should do the job, I think to keep the µC in Halt State by connecting pin 78 to 79 on J1 so it will not interfere when reading out the EEPROM.Only thing I need is the freaking AMP 2x40pin 1,27mm pitch plug...Maybe this one?http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-AMP-80-Pin-Male-D-Sub-Connectors-from-Intel-2xx-Backplane-/160351413820Anyone can tell me what AMP plug I need to buy?This one? I think I got it.http://www.ebay.de/itm/SCSI-Adapter-intern-68-Pin-auf-80-Pin-SCA-/291942990210?hash=item43f9288182:g:2msAAOSwiDFYKjQW

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 06:01:33 pm
content: Couldn´t wait... got thishttp://www.ebay.de/itm/SCSI-Adapter-intern-68-Pin-auf-80-Pin-SCA-/291942990210?hash=item43f9288182:g:2msAAOSwiDFYKjQWfor 6€... Let´s see...

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 08:01:43 pm
content: Zucca, so are you saying, once the CPU's HALT pin is enabled externally through pin 78, while tapping the data bus (D0-D7) and the address bus (A0-A19) through the SCA connector, say connected to TL866 thru "creative" wiring at that SCA, we can read or write the flash AM29F080 ? CMIIWBtw, just checked, TL866 supports AM29F080 officially.Excerpt from MC68331 user manual :Quote

author: TurboTom
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 08:14:24 pm
content: Here some photos -- haven't yet assembled a serial cable to download the screenshots directly. Sorry for the poor quality, had to use the shitty cell phone cameraCheers,ThomasP.S. Sorry, forgot to set date and time correctly...

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 08:17:00 pm
content: That is impressive.TheTHS720Pis the one that always sells for the highest price on ebay.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 08:17:33 pm
content: Oh yeah BravoV... that is my plan...

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 08:24:59 pm
content: Quote from: TurboTom on November 19, 2016, 08:14:24 pmThomas, thank you so much, now I'm convinced. Definitely will mod my 710A, just by doing few resistors, free upgrade from 60Mhz to 100Mhz and extra harmonic analysis and power measurements features enabled.Your firmware is 1.14 , wonder if my firmware 1.11 is enough for this mod ?Btw, the latest is 1.16 isn't it from what I gathered from internet.

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2016, 10:58:47 pm
content: Looks like the firmware changes were about fixing bugs in the firmware ..https://forum.tek.com/viewtopic.php

author: TurboTom
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2016, 11:33:55 am
content: When I received my (then) THS710A, both scope channels showed some DC offset that changed with the input sensitivity ranges selected. DC path compensation didn't correct this and I read somewhere in the forum that this is relateds to "worn out" analog optocouplers (CNR-201A) that are used to transfer the DC component of the input signal across the isolation barrier. Since these components are not particularly expensive. I decided to get some and replace them.Guess what the result was: Same picture as beforeAs a last resort I thought the complete factory calibration of the scope section might possibly help, and fortunately, it did the trick! DC offset vanished completely.I just wanted to post the information in this thread since it seems to be the most comprehensive and as I understand, many of the THS700 models suffer more or less severely from the DC offset over the time. Calibration is very simple and all that's required for the job is a good (arbitrary) function generator that's capable of outputting a square wave with half-way decent rise time (<20ns) and a DC voltage (the accuracy of the latter should be checked with a reliable multimeter). Fortunately, the scope section and the DMM section of the THS700 is calibrated separately and the DMM section calibration is very unlike to deteriorate over time.All the information required for the job is available in the service manual, starting at page 51:http://de.tek.com/oscilloscope/ths720a-manual/ths710a-ths720a-ths730a-ths720p-service-manualMy recommendation in case of DC offset problems is to try this calibration before swapping out any components, especially since removal of the analog isolators is a real PITA....Cheers,ThomasP.S. Some calibration steps really take some time and the instrument may appear like it's crashed -- just get yourself a cup of coffee (or whatever you feel like having at the time...) and wait. The screen contrast is set to 50% during calibration, on my THS700 this results in a rather dim screen (normally it's set at 65%), so don't worry if something like this happens.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2016, 12:40:42 pm
content: Quote from: R_G_B_ on November 19, 2016, 10:58:47 pmI searched, but can't find it ?Anyway, if its bugs fixed, then I'm looking for 1.16 dump, anyone ?

author: R_G_B_
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2016, 03:10:52 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on November 20, 2016, 12:40:42 pmTry thishttps://forum.tek.com/viewtopic.php?t=138280

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 20, 2016, 10:24:46 pm
content: Quote from: TurboTom on November 20, 2016, 11:33:55 amThanks for confirming again this:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/tek-ths720a-thinks-there-are-110v-on-the-input-but-there-is-just-a-50-ohm-r/msg870999/#msg870999Mine has the same issue, but I want first to dump out the U1 AM29F080, then calibrate it. After I will compare the two U1 contents to understand where the calibration variables are. There will be surely a CRC, so not so easy... willl see.

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2016, 05:37:47 am
content: I have a really early THS720 (non-a) and 1) the 720P hack doesn't work. Moving the jumper turns it into a THS770??. No idea what that is and I saw no features of interest.The PCB is different around the meter inputs and would not support later firmware with the external trig input on the meter terminals.The display on this guy is really dim. Any options for getting a brighter display? LED upgrade? Newer tube or.The best external software for these I have found comes from Metratek;http://www.metratek.com/That software also works with a number of other scopes including my 7854. The "p" version gets the power measurement features like the 720P.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2016, 08:11:35 am
content: Quote from: 1audio on November 21, 2016, 05:37:47 amI have never heard of this scope software before.Has anyone here used it?How much is the real version?

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2016, 04:08:06 pm
content: Metrateks web site is not the easiest to navigate here are the prices:http://www.metratek.com/price.htmlYou can download the demo version to make sure it works for you. I had the Tektronix software for the THS stuff but it was little more than a screen grabber. You still need that serial connection. I believe a USB to serial adapter will work. However the popular chip comes in two versions, one that works in the old XP world and one in the newer Win 7-10 world. Usually you don't know which you are getting on the cheap adapters. I have wasted many hours figuring this out. This is a helpful guideline:http://www.usconverters.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=62

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 21, 2016, 05:50:06 pm
content: It looks like I found the J1 connectorMolex 15-92-2480the dimensions match with the drawing here:http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/015922480_sd.pdf...still waiting for the Adapter board... but now I have more hope than before... It should be the right one...

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2016, 06:57:51 pm
content: Documenting the resistors mod, if you found any mistakes or not complete, just tell me, I will fix it accordingly.Cmiiw, compared to 710A/720A/720P, it looks like 730A uses different AT1 and AT2 isn't it ? The ATx stands for attenuator ?

author: mk_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2016, 04:29:31 pm
content: Quote from: Fraser on June 26, 2015, 02:09:33 pmmaybe this could be usefull...Michael

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 25, 2016, 06:59:37 pm
content: FUUUUUUUUUUUU.....

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2016, 01:11:47 pm
content: Bummer... feel sorry for you Zucca.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 07, 2016, 09:18:48 pm
content: Quote from: zucca on November 21, 2016, 05:50:06 pmwell it is just BS! After further investigation it does not match....After two nights trying to find the right connector I give up... no way to find it on mouser or digikey. All the SCSI plugs are popping out... and our guy is not SCSI.I found thishttp://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1605497.pdf?_ga=1.116809280.799036234.1481144451but it looks like it is not here either.should I solder 40 cables on the back of that connector? Or buy another Plug+connector and desolder/replace the mister X J1 connector on the THS?pffffff....

author: TurboTom
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2016, 10:12:03 pm
content: Now that you already got that connector that' not wide enough apparently, why don't you just split it in half (place two slices of thin sheet metal between the contacts for protection and use a hacksaw between them to cut the plastic in half length-wise) and try to use the individual halves to make contact to the THS extension port. It may not work but it's worth a try I think.Cheers,Thomas

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 11, 2016, 08:26:30 pm
content: So.. what I will do next??? see attachment...

author: mk_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2016, 09:02:10 pm
content: Quote from: zucca on December 11, 2016, 08:26:30 pmcontact with spring-needles from the solderside? Solderdots could be 1,27mm-grid, so small needles should do it?regardsMichael

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 11, 2016, 09:48:58 pm
content: 30 gauge wirewrap wire is your friend - run them all all to a dip socket that can plug into a programmer.I wanted to read a BGA flash part in a device once without removing it. Being I had already torn one down I had mapped which testpoints matched which connections on the flash so I soldered 40+ wires to the bottom of the board. Those wires went to a PCB with headers on it. A second device also had a similar setup wired into that had a JTAG interface. I connected the two together via ribbon cables and used the JTAG interface in one to read the flash in the other device. The processor was held in reset to tristate its inputs.Oh the fun, I also went through hundreds of feet of 30 gauge wire to wire in TSOP flash parts to replace BGA devices so I could remove the flash and rear/write to it.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 13, 2016, 10:05:18 pm
content: Quote from: TheSteve on December 11, 2016, 09:48:58 pmthis idea was already there... but you inspired me to the next level... well sort of... thanks!!!!another step further....

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 16, 2016, 09:42:21 pm
content: Well... will it work?Failed!need to check the wires... tomorow..

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2016, 04:15:40 am
content: Zucca, just want you to know I really appreciate your efforts & sharing it here, guess I will keep popping the pop corns.

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 17, 2016, 06:16:22 am
content: I assume you didn't connect Vcc from the programmer to the scope, the processor is being held in reset and the scope is being powered from its power adapter?

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 17, 2016, 03:14:47 pm
content: ThanksTheSteveandBravoVto stay with me. I am just trying to give back something to this community.So I checked all the wires on my adapter and they are OK. I also soldered the RESET PIN on the PIN 34 on J1.The problem was I got the 12V on the DC Jack there, but I forgot to switch on the scope. There was no VCC on the board.All the time the µC was in HALT state by connecting PIN 79, 78 on J1 together:To switch on the scope simply connect the PIN 15 and 17 on the J6 adapter:and I got 320mA flowing on the 12V... before well it was pretty much 0... stupid me. VCC was now there nicely at 5.01V.I fired up the MiniPro SW with this options:and I got this error message...so fine I deactivated the check ID:and bingo:the problem now is the data looks like garbage, and between different readings the data changes...Here what I got (thxTiNfor the FTP server):https://doc.xdevs.com/doc/Tektronix/THS7xxx_Portable_scope/FW/1.14_try/Now, maybe the "Erase befor" Setting wiped out the EEPROM before reading? I think no.. no waring nothing...Another fishy thing is the Chip ID changes from time to time between 0x82 82 to 0x92 92 (sporadically)... who knows...next step I try to pull together the scope and see if I bricked it..UPDATE: It still works...Don´t know why I am not getting the consistent reading from the EPROM reader... may the cable adapter is not properly shielded?

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 17, 2016, 06:38:20 pm
content: Could easily be noise - the wires are pretty long for what you're attempting. If the chip ID isn't 100% the same every time there is an issue. It could also be a bad connection but I am thinking noise more then anything. If you're up for making changes I'd suggest shortening the wiring to 1/3 of its original length - or as short as possible.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 17, 2016, 06:53:46 pm
content: Yep Steve you got it, I scoped out and the waves were shit...Things are improving a lot when the 5V are feed on the J1 pin5 (not from the 12V DC Plug... )... after that I got sharp edges and cool digital signals.It this case I got a reproducible FF all the time...mmmm looks like the TL866 doesn't like this: OE (PIN 37 on the EEPROM) is internally generated by WE (PIN 35 on the J1 connector) in the scope.There is a XOR which acts as a NOT, so OE=NOT (WE).OE is not available on the J1 of course so I couldn't not connect it.Unfortunately on the TL866 OE is something different than NOT(WE) and things are going bad...It could also be that the RY/BY (PIN 36 on the EEPROM) could play a role on the TL866 when programming the chip, and this is also not available on the bastard J1.My conclusion: I think we need an external µC with a dedicated SW which can tap into the J1 and get the FW out... OR desolder the chip...

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 17, 2016, 06:57:58 pm
content: Could you not directly solder just the OE wire to the flash chip itself?

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 17, 2016, 07:15:42 pm
content: Quote from: TheSteve on December 17, 2016, 06:57:58 pmFirst of all we need to disconnect the output of the XOR and then we can tap in... well this is going to be messy... I will just desolder U1 and done. No need to build an J1 adapter and so on...

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 21, 2016, 04:58:33 pm
content: I ordered a air nozzle for the TSOP40 and the adapter for the TL866... I AM NOT GIVING UP.Meanwhile a hero with a FW1.16 is needed so we can spread the last FW in the world: thinking on buying some U1 flash them and send those to you guys, anyone interested?So while I am waiting for the parts to come in let´s modify the battery. I chose the 5000mA solution likeposplayrdidhere.Unhappy of that plus pole TEK crap patent solution, i decided to take apart the battery lid, wait a minute why no use a solder wick?solder did not work there, no matter how much flux you out. So next step I press the solder wick between plastic and metal, to keep everything together I used hot glue which worked well (didn´t expect that)then I soldered the plus cable, and there is even a little hook where the cable can be fixed on, thanks TEK!Done:Tested with 1.5A current the voltage drop af that thing is just 30mV... so cool.Does the TEK have a reversal voltage protection if the battery is inserted other way? mmmm shottky diode?

author: mk_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2016, 05:10:01 pm
content: Quote from: zucca on December 21, 2016, 04:58:33 pmHm... 1.11 from a well running THS730A is the last I can offer (have to build adapter etc, so it will take time also), the others have 1.03 or 1.04 installedregardsMichael

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 21, 2016, 10:09:06 pm
content: Quote from: mk_ on December 21, 2016, 05:10:01 pmThanks Michael, but I have already the 1.14 Version... so we need someone with the 1.16

author: djnz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2017, 04:38:20 pm
content: I have recently acquired a THS720A and this is a very interesting thread indeed! It came without the serial cable, and I wish to make one. I read the whole thread and there are some pinouts given, but I was not able to understand clearly what the connections are. Different sources also seem to follow different numbering conventions, adding to my confusion. I am attaching a picture with the pins clearly marked and labelled 1,2,.., 8 and a,b,c,...,i. Could someone with a working cable please post what the connections arewith reference to this naming convention. Thanks.Edit:1. With hard flagging and soft flagging both set to 'off' (no flow control), communication works fine with just Tx, Rx and Gnd connected, as expected. So,3 <-----> d4 <-----> c5 <-----> aseem to be sufficient.2. With hard flagging set to 'on' (hardware flow control), communication seems to work fine with the following connections:1 <-----> e & g8 & 2 <-----> h3 <-----> d4 <-----> c5 <-----> a6 <-----> i7 <-----> b8 <-----> hTested with a Keyspan USA-19HS serial-to-usb adapter which is male on its serial end.

author: mk_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2017, 11:24:13 pm
content: Quote from: djnz on January 05, 2017, 04:38:20 pmNice to meet you hereDid you download the schematic named THS7XXAPDiag.pdf? If so - look at pdf-page 9 and you find the RJ-Connector.http://kazus.ru/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25865&d=1315575619There is also a file aviable called "THS720P Programmer Manual.pdf"http://www.tek.com/oscilloscope/ths720a-manual/ths710a-ths720a-ths730a-ths720p-programmer-manualOn pdf-page 18 you will find the pinassignments for the RS232.Both files are too large for upload here to eevblog.Michael

author: BMack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2017, 06:49:19 am
content: Quote from: zucca on December 21, 2016, 04:58:33 pmDamn, that's a good idea. I rigged a sleeve that I can slide Eneloop C battery adapters into and used copper tape to make the contact.I really wish I could get myself an extra stand for it, the stand was broken when I got mine.

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2017, 12:46:40 am
content: I found this assembled battery pack that is mostly ready to go for $15:http://www.batteryspace.com/nicdbatterypack48v30ah4xcendtoendwithtabs.aspxIt has tabs at each end. Its Nicad so it should work with the internal charger (or the external charger) with no problems once equipped with the connections. I'll need to either add the connection ring or modify the top connector to make it work. The connection ring is my first choice since I have one of the external chargers. I'll get one and try it if no one knows of a problem.

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2017, 12:48:37 am
content: The screen on my THS720 is really dim. I am ready to replace the backlight tubes but only if the dim screen is abnormal. Do others have the same experience? Should I explore LED retrofit options?

author: BMack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2017, 06:27:17 am
content: Quote from: 1audio on January 07, 2017, 12:46:40 amMy original solution was a pack I made of rechargable C batteries. The 1.2V batteries would give me a "low power" warning after about 10 minutes. With the 1.5V Eneloops I get about an hour before the notification comes up. The C batteries wouldn't even last 40mins, Eneloops last about 90 mins.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2017, 06:39:28 am
content: Quote from: BMack on January 07, 2017, 06:27:17 am+1, ancient NiCd C cells simply can't beat current Eneloop AA cells when it comes to run times, not to mention the high self discharge of those NiCd type. As my 2nd post in this thread, I use Eneloop "Pro" which has even higher capacity than regular white ones.The only disadvantage that I can think of is, we can not rely on the scope's internal charging to change modern NiMh cells, especially in series, and I worry it might toast them as it looks like the charging mechanism is using dumb slow constant current charging, cmiiw.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2017, 06:52:28 am
content: I've been thinking if anyone with 3D drawing expertise could create a 3D model for the AA to C cells battery tube, as 3D printing service is becoming easier and cheaper these days.

author: djnz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2017, 08:56:42 pm
content: I wrote a python program today for getting Hard Copy (screenshots) from these scopes in EPS Image format. I think EPS files handle resizing and PNG conversion well and thus and so they can be printed on paper at high dpi settings and used in reports etc..I am attaching my zipped code as well as some EPS and EPS -> PNG samples obtained using the program.Improvements and suggestions are welcome.

author: BMack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2017, 06:50:55 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on January 07, 2017, 06:39:28 amI ended up designing he tub to push the batteries out through the bottom and charge in the normal Eneloop charger, then I keep four Eneloops in the case. Admittedly that's overkill because I have three scopes at home, and I can use three at work. The portable is for when I want a scope and the piece is too big for the workbench. Three hours of runtime should be enough for any portable scope.Did you have an issue with the "Pro" cells fitting? I thought they were a little longer than the regular Eneloops.If any of you have access to a 3D printer, that would be perfect for this. A C-sized tube with a AA-sized hole in the middle would work better than the C spacers...would also be great to fix my darn stand too

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2017, 09:20:44 am
content: Hey can some of you guys take a peek here and let me know how your Tek handhelds behave as regards this issue I'm having with my handheld scope?https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/dc-offset-wander/You could easily have some battery adapters machined from nylon for those Teks too. If there are a few of you who want them I could probably make up a batch for you guys.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2017, 09:40:57 am
content: My Tek Handheld scopes do not show this behavior at all.

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2017, 09:49:30 am
content: I didn't think they would. My bench scope doesn't either. The seller is trying to downplay the issue though, telling me the trigger settings are wrong, lol. I took a couple videos of the handheld and my Tek bench scope being fed the exact same signal and will add them to the thread tomorrow. The Tek is rock solid with the same signal that has the handheld jumping all over the place.

author: TurboTom
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2017, 10:18:12 am
content: What about connecting the inputs of the Micsig and another oscilloscope directly together with a BNC-BNC cable to check if the offset problem is really present as a voltage at the input of the Micsig? If it is, it should be the best answer to the seller's doubts. BTW, I've also got one of the Micsigs and despite the input is not the most noiseless one, it's by far not as bad as yours. I assume the 20mV/div input voltage range you're referring to are with the probe factor configured 1:10, so it's a true 2mV/div.Cheers,Thomas

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2017, 10:34:36 am
content: That's a good idea, but I don't have any hardware for that. I do have several BNC extensions though, I could probably cannibalize a couple of those and make one.And yes, the probe factor is indeed set to 10:1 as my good probes are all 10:1, so in fact it's truly 2mV/div and 100mV/div that I'm looking at - but it's the same way on my Tek scope also.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 09, 2017, 04:14:29 pm
content: Quote from: BMack on January 07, 2017, 06:27:17 amDid you use 5000 mAh NiMH C Batteries?Quote from: 1audio on January 07, 2017, 12:48:37 amYES PLEASE!!!! Very good idea, my display is ok. When the backlight tubes will say goodbye I will definitely put some LED there. There is also a place for a LED driver board if you toss the HV Tube inverter one...

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2017, 06:26:40 am
content: RE display lamps. I looked for LED solutions and there are many, but mostly for larger displays. I made a request to one outfit that seems promising for a more optimized solution. I would pay $35 for something that will just work over $15 and a lot of crude hacking to find it doesn't. If I hear back I'll post.When the scope is unplugged and the battery is in it does it draw from the battery? Should I pull the battery when the scope will be sitting for a while?For the deep cycle and repeated charging I have read the nicad is a better option. Nimh needs to be managed for max and min charge levels for long life. Toyota and Honda use 80% and 30% of max and min to get more life from the Nimh batteries.

author: BMack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2017, 07:26:22 am
content: Quote from: zucca on January 09, 2017, 04:14:29 pmYes I did. I was expecting longer life or else I would have done Eneloops to start. The biggest problem is the annoying "Low battery" warning that comes up every few mins, it literally takes less than 10 minutes to start popping up.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 10, 2017, 09:23:08 am
content: Quote from: BMack on January 10, 2017, 07:26:22 amI will investigate to reproduce this issue with my package, we are running with 5000mAh Bettery instead of the 2800mAh stock ones. It´s very surprising to me that this is happening. Surely the NiMH vs NiCd have different discharge ratings but jeeezzz...I will perform a CSize 5Ah discharge test @1.2A (scope drain when on incl. Backlight) and report the results...EDIT: Looking at the Spec. for Energized, Panasonic or other well know brand, a C Size NiMH is about 2500mAh-3200mAh... I am now thinking that 5000mAh are BS marketing....AnywayQuote from: zucca on August 11, 2014, 01:37:26 amInteresting will be to know the power cut off time (@4.2V) comparison Csize 5000mAh vs 2000mAh Eneloop AA. Maybe you have already done this, 40min with Csize? CMIIW. In case the Csize will win... we could lower the low battery threshold by changing the R153 (close to U55) to a higher value (Low Battery when 4.3V or 4.4V).To me it boils down to the following right now:- 5000mAh C Size: no battery adapter required, compatible with internal scope charging circuit. Higher self discharging than eneloop. "LOW BATTERY" warning comes too soon (I 'll try to reproduce it)- 2000mAh Eneloop AA: the opposite.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 10, 2017, 09:27:52 am
content: Quote from: 1audio on January 10, 2017, 06:26:40 amAccording to my investigation in standby (OFF with battery inside), the current drain is 176µA.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2017, 02:15:09 pm
content: Quote from: BMack on January 09, 2017, 06:50:55 amPlain white Eneloop and the black Pro have identical dimension.Its just Pro has "tad" higher self discharge rate than white one, no big deal imo, still much-much better than non LSD NiMh or NiCd.Quote from: BMack on January 09, 2017, 06:50:55 am+1

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 22, 2017, 09:14:51 am
content: Thanks toChippyZerowe have a FW 1.16not working...Quoteftp://ftp.xdevs.com/Tektronix/THS7xxx_Portable_scope/FW/1.16/

author: z01z
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2017, 11:10:01 am
content: Has anyone checked the contents of the file? The one I downloaded appears to be empty (0xff).

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 26, 2017, 06:27:10 pm
content: Quote from: z01z on January 23, 2017, 11:10:01 amsame to me...

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 27, 2017, 11:02:32 am
content: Quote from: zucca on January 10, 2017, 09:23:08 amSo here we go. My batteries are these ones:http://www.ebay.de/itm/291785752982?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT@CC 1.2A Discharge Test, I got the following:4,6V Battery Low after2 hours and 34 min4,2 Cut off after2 hours and 58 minBattery was charged 24 hours inside the Tek scope by 12VDC ext., left inside for more than 2 weeks. I turned on the scope 2 or 3 times for one minutes... just to see if I was already in battery low state, and I wasn't.I then took out the battery and performed the test this morning. At the beginning the battery voltage was 5,23V.Attached the raw data.So far no problem... now 'I'm recharging the batteries.

author: texaspyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 06:14:59 am
content: I have a THS730A. Several years ago I made a replacement pack using 4500 mAh AccuEvolution LSD NiMh C cells. These are high quality cells and not some over-spec'd Chinese junk. It is still going strong.I made the pack by taping a sleeve made of mylar around the cells. For the positive contact I used some thin brass sheet from a hobby shop. I cut it into a "L" shape. The vertical part of the "L" is around 0.2" wide. The end of the strip folds over the "+" of the top cell. The bottom of the "L" is around an inch wide and wraps around the cells where the original battery contact is.I taped the strip down and insulated it with Kapton tape. The cells just slide into the mylar sleeve. They are not tabbed together and the springs in the scope press the cells together. I do have a VERY nice CD welder that I built and intended to weld them together, but have never had a need or reason to do so.I have always charged it in the scope without any problems. I try not to leave it on charge for extended periods of time, but have occasionally left it charging for over a week... the cells get pleasantly warm doing that but they don't seem to mind.BTW, I snagged the scope for less than $200 off of Ebay...

author: BMack
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 07:04:18 am
content: Quote from: zucca on January 27, 2017, 11:02:32 amWow, nice! So I guess we have a solution, buy Eneloops or other batteries that aren't these:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FHVM7GC/

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 09:29:01 am
content: Quote from: texaspyro on January 28, 2017, 06:14:59 amAmen Brother!Lesson learned: never trust the mAh on cheap no name battery. I am lucky than mines are roughly 3600mAh instead of 5000mAh, my BS detector had old firmare when I bought mines. Now I got the new FW on it...it will never happen again.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 11:19:04 am
content: Quote from: zucca on January 27, 2017, 11:02:32 amThose batteries look nice, I will try a set in one of my Tek scopes.

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2017, 05:14:26 am
content: Update on LED's for the LCD-I got in a kit from China for "universal" LED update. Fitting it into the LCD is pretty easy BUT I found an issue in the manual (or in my scope). The manual says the supply voltage is 12V. It also references an incorrect pinout. Fortunately the schematics are correct once I found the connector in them. However its actually 5V. All the retrofit kits need 12V so that's an issue. There is a higher voltage available in the scope but I'm not sure where to get it and its -20V with limited current so not a great idea. Next step a 5V to 12V boost converter from China ($.99 w/ free shipping). I'll need to find a cable since I don't want to destroy the existing cable.So I'm reverting and installing a new FL lamp in the meantime.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 22, 2017, 06:33:11 am
content: ...and of course you can't just replace some R in der LED module to accomodate the 5V input...Thanks for the info! ... appreciate that.Z

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2017, 07:10:47 am
content: Drat- even the new FL lamp doesn't fit. Its 3mm too long to fit properly. I spent an hour troubleshooting the orientation of the cable for the display. Not on top of things tonight. Probably the heat here. Even my battery got flakey.

author: little_grey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2017, 12:42:59 pm
content: Hi all,New to the forum, but been playing with scopes for work for years but recently acquired a THS710 all my very own.mostly wanted to say thanks for all the tips and tricks, and i'll be sure to share my progress as and when i make some of the alterations.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 14, 2017, 12:53:25 pm
content: Welcomelittle_grey,I have everything now to desolder the U1 and trying to readout my FW 1.14 with a TL866A, but no time to attack the beast.Do you thing I should try it? I hope the the FW is not locked down in the U1.

author: little_grey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2017, 01:32:03 pm
content: with all the hassle you have gone through so far to get connectors and alike.you are so close.that said, what would you want to achive once you have dumped the chip?going to be using it primarily in the automotive world with hobbies along side, though used one when calibrating old equipment at Rolls-Royce.

author: little_grey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2017, 11:52:56 am
content: finally got mine delivered and done a quick signal input test and reminding myself how the OS works.Got the case and manual and what appears to be a fairly good battery for £230 so dont feel too out of pocket for it.admittedly not the best bargain, the HP signal generator was £22 from a charity shopi have some testing to do on coil and injector drivers later so i'll give it a proper working test later.

author: grinch
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 11, 2017, 08:58:10 am
content: Just my 2 cents. Original ths720 std power supply. Nothing special inside: rectifier bridge, resistor and capacitor:

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 11, 2017, 09:37:18 am
content: Thxgrinch, cheap ass stuff there...Quote from: little_grey on July 14, 2017, 01:32:03 pmUpgrading to 1.16, If some gentleman will then dump out the 1.16 FWand then reverse eng... something like this, checking and comparing the EPROM datahttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/quick-repair-standford-research-ps350-5kv-5ma-(fixed)/

author: SMdude
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2017, 01:12:53 pm
content: Hey, just curious, has anybody tried to run one of these scopes from 8.4v from the battery input?Looking at the schematic, I can't see a reason why it would not work as the 12v wall adaptor ends up feeding the same supply much higher than 4.8v.Sure the built in charger won't work, though it could be modified for a higher output voltage, however the charger is really a mute point as I could contain one in the batt pack.What I am thinking of doing is making a li-ion pack with 2 18650's in series to get 8.4v with a built in 12v charger. I would use a piece of pvc pipe to house everything(without measuring, it looks about the right diameter).The 15hr charge time for the ni-cd pack doesn't really turn me on, and it would be inconvenient to have more than one ni-cd pack as you'd be forever waiting for batteries to charge.Cheers

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 07, 2017, 01:29:22 pm
content: Hope you can make your dream true. I wasted some time for exactly the same mod, but after I swapped the terrible aged Tek battery with news one (see some posts above) I was pretty happy and called it done deal.Quote from: SMdude on September 07, 2017, 01:12:53 pmI see some components beetween the batteries pack and the 12VDC, so I will not be so 100% sure.Easy test: take the battery out and feed the scope with the 12VDC jack, then measure the voltage at the empty batteries pack terminals. You will have the answer...Be careful not to cook your scope with 8,4V experiments.

author: SMdude
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2017, 01:38:36 pm
content: Well, at the output of the si9435(fet directly after batt pack), the voltage will be 1 diode drop below 12v.Looking at everything else around there, I am feeling game. (almost)Might take a smps and slowly ramp up the voltage while measuring current and see what happens.Will let you all know what I find..Cheers

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 07, 2017, 02:04:12 pm
content: Cool, yeah just ramp up the voltage at the batteries terminals and watch i.e. the scope 5V power rail if it will rise up above 5,5V I will call it a failed try....

author: little_grey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2017, 02:32:29 pm
content: i think i am with Zucca, for the price, i think i'll ether buy a complete replacement or replace the internal cells. that said my battery is not too bad at the moment.if you are planning on running at a lower voltage are you going to be continually harassed by the low power warning? (might be missubnderstanding here)

author: SMdude
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2017, 02:55:17 pm
content: Nope, going for 8.4v as I have li-ion coming out of my ... shed!Looking at the schema a bit further, I am very confident that this will work without any problems, just making the insert tube with the contact, then I will give it a try.Grabbed myself some of these bms circuits(you should always use a bms with lithium) :http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-2S-3A-7-4-8-4V-Li-ion-18650-Lithium-Lipo-Battery-BMS-Protection-Board-PCB-EP/222612744056?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649And will be using a tp5100 charger board :http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-cells-single-Lithium-ion-Battery-Charger-Module-1-2A-PCB-18650-TP5100-iphone-/171753145841?epid=1053965105&hash=item27fd4905f1:g:eL0AAOSwPhdVK8yDWith a 2.1mm dc jack, and same polarity as the one that supplies the scope.Will post more tomorrow arvo, late here now.Cheers

author: SMdude
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2017, 03:59:43 am
content: Well, it works!They have no problems running from 8.4v at the battery input.Now to wait for the bms.It's a bit rough, however it does the job.Note to self, don't attempt to board a plane with it!CheersPs, will let you know if the smoke comes out...Pps, The low batt warning won't work unless it is modified for the higher voltage, but unless I have to pull it apart, CBF

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 08, 2017, 08:10:38 am
content: Battery C Size measures 50 millimetres (1.97 in) length and 26.2 millimetres (1.03 in) diameter. So the Tek Battery pack is about 20cm with 26.2 mm diameter.A 25500 Liion Battey is about the same size as a C cell.How about then 3x25500 in series... will the 12,6V burn up everything?Probably yes...I found some 25500 with already the BMS integrated which is nice...One questions... with 8,4V how much current does the Scope need?I mean at 4,8V it needed 1.2A when full on (with backlight)... so at 8,4V maybe 1,2A*4,8V/8,4V=686mA? Probably yes..wait with 12VDC on the charger jack it need about 500mA with no batteries attached... so probably it needs about 6W-5,8W (with backlight on!!!) to operate... the rest is just math...So quick battery life check:2 18650 in series 3100mAh (SMdude mod)3,1Ah/5,8W*(3,6V*2)= 3,84h2 25500 in series 4000mAh4Ah/5,8W*(3,6V*2) = 4,96h3 25500 in series 4000mAh4Ah/5,8W*(3,6V*3) = 7,44hNow since according to my old post the 4 C-Size cell are lasting 2,96h you will get 3,84-2,96= 52 minutes more with the 2x18650. Which is nice, but I personally think it is not worth the effort unless you really need the quick charge feature.... and all the Liion bat goodies.Much more interesting are the configurations 2x25500, and the porno dream will be the 3x25500 (it will last probably one business day and then the night comes where you will charge it)...EDIT: a 26650 size is also very interesting.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 08, 2017, 09:43:57 am
content: I couldn't resist... according to my reverse eng... schematics page 15, near U55R151/R153=Vlow/1,5V-1Low Battery Liion warning mod... assuming 3,5V / Cell as trigger for the warning...with 2 Liion---> mod R151 with a 174,1KRor---> mod R153 with a 27,2KRwith 3 Liion---> mod R151 with a 285KRor---> mod R153 with a 16,6KR

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 08, 2017, 03:19:24 pm
content: Allelujahttp://www.ebay.de/itm/TangsFire-2pcs-6800mAh-26650-3-7-v-Lithium-Ionen-Akku-mit-PCB-Board-V1M4-/262876079813?hash=item3d34a2a6c5:g:zpoAAOSw~AVYtuvP13,33€2 26650 in series 6800mAh6,8Ah/5,8W*(3,7V*2) = 8,67hnow we are in business, BUT I think the 6800mAh could be fake

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 08, 2017, 03:47:13 pm
content: More reasonablehttp://www.ebay.de/itm/Keeppower-IMR26650-5200mAh-15A-3-7V-Li-ion-Akku/321592179831?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140117130753%26meid%3D338238260bb942659e077f043471a41e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D272808504949&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m185119,24Wh*2/5,8W=6,63h

author: texaspyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2017, 01:02:56 am
content: A few days ago I came across a THS730A battery pack that I built over 10 years ago using NiCd cells. I never really used it since I had also built one out of 4500 mAh low-self-discharge Nimh cells (and that pack is still working). A quick check showed the NiCd pack was toast, so I decided to rebuild it using NiMh cells. A quick trip to the battery store found some 5000 mAh Imedieon low self discharge cells for a decent price ($25 / 4). I've used Imedion cells for a long time and they work very well.I rebuilt the NiCd pack (the way I built it, just slid the old cells out of the mylar sleeve and slid in the new cells). Then I went to test it in the scope. I had some difficulty opening the battery door... WTF? Turns out the door was broken. The metal disk that connects the battery positive to the scope is held to the black plastic door with four TINY heat staked pins. Three of the four had sheared off at the plastic knob. I suspect that this will be a common failure mode.So, I emailed Tek about a replacement door... no joy... no longer available... support ended in 2012.So I fixed the door / contact disk using IC2000 tire cement. This is a rubberized superglue used to glue tires to wheels on RC race cars. It is not brittle like regular superglue. First I cleaned the metal disk and plastic knob with alcohol (190 proof Everclear grain alcohol is my cleaner of choice... non-toxic (in moderation) and it also makes a great screwdriver... if mixed with orange juice and milk of magnesia is that a Philips screwdriver?).Next I scuffed up the back of the disk and the back edge face of the knob with rough sandpaper. Then I applied a bead of IC2000 around the face of the plastic knob. Finally, very carefully, I centered the disk on the knob. Having one heat stake post still attached to the knob helped with centering the disk. The battery door now works better than it ever did. Unfortunately the little cloth tether that keeps the battery door attached to the machine has disappeared. A little kevlar thread and some more IC2000 fixed that.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 16, 2017, 05:10:28 am
content: If you look back you can find how I modified my battery pack.I remove the metal disc intentionally and sandwich with hot glue some solder wick.It's holding like a champ, I have then a wire for the positive pole and don't need the cloth tether.Good to know about the IC2000.

author: texaspyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2017, 01:14:20 pm
content: I found the tether... it had slipped back in to the case and was hiding in its little cave. A bit of shaking and tweezing coaxed it out. I tacked it down to the metal disk with a drop of IC2000. You do have to be a little careful closing the battery door. The top of the brass strip is just folded over the edge of the battery. The tether likes to settle between the battery positive terminal and the brass strip that runs down to the ring at the base of the battery stick.

author: patpat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2017, 05:10:47 pm
content: My approach for using regular Eneloop Pro and spacers (or C size batteries)w/o altering the scope.The Eneloops fit tight but I was able to close the lid w/o problem.Now my THS730 works on regular AA (with spacers) or C sized batteriesThis mod is good if do not need to change bateries very often.Best,Patrick

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2017, 11:49:08 pm
content: I just replaced both polarizers on my LCD on my 720A that was illegible before I did it. I describe the process and what I used to do it at the end of this thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=53184.msg1376800.msg#1376800Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

author: hardcoreman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2017, 07:36:35 am
content: hello, any progress with dumping firmware?i looking for 1.14 or 1.16.i want try 710 to 710a mod. now i have working 710 to 720 v 1.03.flash size is same, pcb components same....

author: patpat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2018, 02:34:57 am
content: I'm also interested in getting a FW dump.I think J1 is the FujitsuFCN-244M080-G/0then we would need the female version of it i.e.FCN-244F080-G/0Is anyone able to confirm this? I'm attaching the connector datasheet.I also think the EPROM reader used by Zucca is not the right tool;if we want to avoid a custom reader we should probably think ofsomething like i.e. the CONITEC GALEP-5 (Script Controlled) programmer,controlling reading speed, uP HALT line, etc.

author: hardcoreman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2018, 11:23:15 am
content: original on pcb is AMP brand...but FCN-244M080 have same dimensions...

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 07, 2018, 10:51:35 pm
content: I have stopped the project because I am helping a friend of mine with a big project.My plan is still to desolder the U1 and read it with the TL866, no more time wasted in the J1 jazz for me.How many of you are waiting a FW dump? If a lot are interested I will reorganize my Todo list.

author: patpat
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2018, 11:42:35 pm
content: If I were you I would not remove the connector, why would you do that?<EDIT>sorry you mean removing the memory. my mistake.If you can carefully do that sure will produce better results.What I wrote next could be useful if you decide not removing the chip.</EDIT>When looking at your previous dumps it seems you have some additional problem on top of noise.A noisy FW reading would look like a non-repeatable pseudo-random reading (68K code) butyours does not look like reading the content of the memory at all.You should check that the control lines are really selecting the "read mode" SeeTable 1. Am29F080 User Bus OperationsRead ModeThe Am29F080 has two control functions which mustbe satisfied in order to obtain data at the outputs. CE isthe power control and should be used for device selection.OE is the output control and should be used togate data to the output pins if the device is selected.Address access time (tACC) is equal to the delayfrom stable addresses to valid output data. The chipenable access time (tCE) is the delay from stable addressesand stable CE to valid data at the output pins.The output enable access time is the delay from thefalling edge of OE to valid data at the output pins (assuming the addressesNext you should check that the RESET/HALT sequence really "works"If you externally fix the control lines but the reader initializes the reading mode by "writing" the "reading command"(see table Table 5. Am29F080 Command Definitions) you might be in trouble because the reader probablydoes not have complete control of the device and that could very well lead to a non responsive memory.The reader should be able to accordingly select the writing and reading control lines; remember in order to readthe reader could initially "write" the reading command.

author: superman13
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2018, 04:11:51 pm
content: Hi!Have anyone working firmware? Tried files 1.16, 1.14 and no success all files are empty.Please if someone have possibility to dump memory I will be grateful. Next week I will get a dump for 1.08 but is very old version.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 13, 2018, 05:03:14 pm
content: I am out of office until middle May. I will then try to do that. My plan is still to desolder the chip and read it out.Even if we give you the FW dump now, how can you be sure it will work on your unit?Moreover I assume you know how to de/solder SMD components.Z

author: superman13
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2018, 05:47:32 pm
content: I have two pieces of ts720A and one is working with 1.08 anotherone is dead (was with newer firmware)...I desoldered both flash and soldered working flash with (1.08) to dead scope... And it is working. Memory from dead scope is alive... But I will try to clone it next week...Will be very good if you can get newer firmware.Next week I will post dump of 1.08.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 13, 2018, 06:50:54 pm
content: Quote from: superman13 on April 13, 2018, 05:47:32 pmIf it works please post all the process details, and then let the hunt for the FW 1.16 begin. I have only the 1.14.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2018, 06:53:32 pm
content: Mine still at 1.11.

author: superman13
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2018, 07:04:23 pm
content: I will try to describe how to read flash... Problem is that dump will do one my friend who has socket, programmer and big experience with a lot of kinds of flash memory...Will ask him to do some screenshots or photos.

author: superman13
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 01:41:21 pm
content: Hi!I have been cloned flash memory from old scope (1.08). And its workingFlash was cloned using TL866.I attached dump.Will be perfect if someone can get dump of newer firmwarehttps://drive.google.com/open?id=1yST43Pc7M_PxNIg4uqZ_9FiX2KKyKmaoPhotos:https://photos.app.goo.gl/VDiYyJWrB1dgEPtp2

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 01:48:24 pm
content: superman13Thanks, as soon I go back in my Lab in May I will unleash the 1.14 FW.The FW 1.16 hunt is officially open, Iwillupdated the thread title and first post.Did you recalibrated the unit? As far as I now in that chip there are also the calibrations parameters.

author: superman13
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 01:55:33 pm
content: Quote from: zucca on April 17, 2018, 01:48:24 pmI have to calibrate it but now I have to buy another display, because one of my THS720 has broken LCD. But these lcd's are still expensivePS. Tried someone to replace LCD with another one more accessible, newer, cheaper?

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 02:05:35 pm
content: Quote from: zucca on April 17, 2018, 01:48:24 pmReally wish there is a way to copy the calibration values ...

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 02:07:00 pm
content: Quote from: superman13 on April 17, 2018, 01:55:33 pmIs the LCD dead, or are the polarizers bad? I successfully replaced both polarizers on mine with no prior experience. Time consuming, but not that difficult.

author: superman13
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 02:24:35 pm
content: Quote from: jal1234 on April 17, 2018, 02:07:00 pmIt's broken

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 02:30:41 pm
content: Quote from: superman13 on April 17, 2018, 02:24:35 pmOh well. Yeah, with new LCDs selling for $150 US on eBay, and whole 720s with accessories selling (I'm talking what units actually sold for, not the insane prices some people ask) for $300-350 or so, it's tough to justify.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 06:42:54 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on April 17, 2018, 02:05:35 pmMy unit needs to be calibrated anyway and the calibration procedure it is not so difficoult... Actually it's not so bad to recalibrate the unit after a while...Anyway I will readout the FW before and after the calibration so we can see what does it change.I am sure there is a CRC somewhere too...

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 06:44:27 pm
content: Quote from: zucca on April 17, 2018, 06:42:54 pmReally, if its not troubling you too much, please, share the recalibration process here.Quote from: zucca on April 17, 2018, 06:42:54 pmThank you, looking forward to see the results.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 06:50:10 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on April 17, 2018, 06:44:27 pmSee the service manual:https://doc.xdevs.com/doc/Tektronix/TEK%20THS%20710A%2C%20720A%2C%20730A%2C%20720P%20Service.pdfChapter 5.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 06:55:17 pm
content: I'm aware of that document, its just I don't have the supporting equipments as the minimum requirements to do that.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 07:13:22 pm
content: QuoteWe need to find out where the serial number and the calibrations parameters are... and then save them out.It`s just a matter of time if some guys are playing with us here.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 17, 2018, 07:18:13 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on April 17, 2018, 06:55:17 pmMe neither... It would be an home made calibration... better than nothing.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 19, 2018, 03:42:52 am
content: I got 10 of these puppieshttps://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F141832195710I am sure they will be useful...Z

author: z01z
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2018, 07:13:15 am
content: Quote from: zucca on April 17, 2018, 07:13:22 pmWell, it should be easy to locate the calibration parameters if one can dump the contents of the flash before and after calibration.

author: superman13
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2018, 07:39:16 am
content: I want to buy this scope from ebay to take DUMP of 1.16 (as I see from photos) and for display, one of mine scope have broken lcd... but this lot is too expensive and I have made an offer for 150$...https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tektronix-THS730A-200MHz-Scope-DMM-Digital-Real-Time-1GS-s/163006175519?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055359.m2763.l2649So, who can and want dump of firmware, please make offer for less than ~100$, hoping that seller will accept my 150$ offerIn that case I will get DUMP from this scope and i'm that THS730 has the same firmware as THS710, 720If anyone knows if there are different firmwares, please let us know about this.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2018, 09:11:13 am
content: Quote from: superman13 on April 19, 2018, 07:39:16 amI found this in the firmware:TDS 320TDS 350TDS 310TDS 340TDS 360TDS 380THS710ATHS720ATHS720PTHS730A

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2018, 10:21:51 am
content: I have a THS720P with FW 1.16What is involved in reading out the FW?

author: superman13
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2018, 11:00:06 am
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on April 19, 2018, 10:21:51 amYou have to unsolder U1 (AM29F080) and using an external programmer with corresponding adapter to read it...I don't know exactly how to make dump because it was done by one friend who has TL866, but I think there should be some info how to make dump of that kind of mem.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 19, 2018, 12:24:37 pm
content: Moreover you need the TSOP-40 adapter for the TL866, and I have a TSOP-40 hot air nozzle to disolder that chip properly.I just need to go back at my lab.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2018, 01:22:52 pm
content: zucca,Should I send you my 720P, so you can read the FW out?

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 19, 2018, 01:44:26 pm
content: YES!!!HVcan read my mind.I will send you my DMM7510 as a small thank you...Let´s talk about this in May when I will be back home.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2018, 01:58:25 pm
content: Great!Let me know, when you are ready.

author: sky2city
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2018, 04:42:22 pm
content: I have one THS720A, with FW 1.11. then I upgrade it to 720P, it work.thanks you guys.

author: grinch
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 29, 2018, 12:27:25 pm
content: hello again,just changed old, crumbly molded foam insert in the case by a "new" one. Second hand packing foam was used. if someone needs sizes of original foam see images.hope it helps.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 29, 2018, 12:39:30 pm
content: Nice!Sorry guys, I got a girlfriend and all my planes are arse up now.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2018, 10:21:07 am
content: Quote from: zucca on April 19, 2018, 01:44:26 pmZucca, hows the progress on extracting the firmware ?

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 30, 2018, 10:26:36 am
content: 0%.That girl and work are sucking all my time.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2018, 10:29:50 am
content: Quote from: zucca on June 30, 2018, 10:26:36 amLOL .. ok , take your time, and TIA for doing this, also to HighVoltage, you guys rock.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2018, 09:01:26 pm
content: @zuccaI just came back from a long trip and can send it out any time now.But you might need more time with the new GF.Just let me know, when you are ready.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 02, 2018, 07:10:59 am
content: HVguess what, I am on business trip in Leipzig until end of August... so away from my Lab again for 2 months.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2018, 07:36:09 am
content: Ohh, you are busy guy these days.No problem, just let me know, when time permits.

author: analogRF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 27, 2018, 03:22:11 pm
content: Quote from: TurboTom on November 20, 2016, 11:33:55 amHi TurboTomI understand this is a very old thread but I was hoping you or someone on this thread can help. I have a THS720A with the same DC offset issues. I have done the calibration as you suggested twice but the offset comes back after a short while. It is good right after calibration but in an hour or two it comes back again. Any suggestion? Should I go for replacing the optocouplers?thanks

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2018, 01:10:08 pm
content: analogRFI have also the DC offset problem. I still need to recalibrate the unit and see what happens.Do you see it in both channels? If not swap the opto and see what happen.

author: analogRF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2018, 03:33:49 pm
content: no its just one channel. the other one is fine. I did the calibration twice and it was good for like 1-2 hours (even without using the scope for any measurements) and the offset came back.Have you tried replacing the optocoupler? some people say it works and some have not been successful.I am sure if it is replaced the unit definitely needs re-calibration and that should be the case with replacing any component in the signal path (otherwise it will probably show an offset and even a wrong gain) but re-calibration without replacing the opto has not worked for me so far.Is there any other component that might be the suspect?

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2018, 07:16:35 am
content: No, I still need to calibrate the unit and see what happen then.Mark the suspected opto with a sharpie, desolder both of them.If you are in the mood you can test them in a separate board outside the device, just to do some sanity check.If nothing comes out and swap them out and do the calibration again. You will see if the problem stays with the bad opto or not.Are the power supply rails good on the bad channel?Even if I tell you my suspects list you NEED to make some measurement and investigate yourself where the problem is.

author: TurboTom
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2018, 08:56:28 am
content: Quote from: analogRF on August 27, 2018, 03:22:11 pmJust pulled my old THS710 "+" from the shelf where it collects dust (...) and powered it up. Surprise, surprise -- seems like there's no offset drift. Right after turning on, both traces were within +- 0.2 DIV center (as far as it's visible on that crappy screen) when zapping through the ranges. ANd they also stayed there after some prolonged time of operation. I've got to add, I power the instrument from a switcher wall-wart with a fairly stable output, so battery drain or so isn't taken into consideration here. And as reported, I replaced all the analog optocouplers in the isolated frontends. If that made a difference for the long-time stability of mine -- my guess is as good as yours.Since the optocouplers aren't that expensive, it may be worth a try if you're good at soldewring in the confinded space next to the shielding boxes... Would I do it again if I had to? -Probably not, too many scoped around (bad case of TEA... ) and the THS700 really looks old-fashioned meanwhile. The power analysis function available after the hack may be useful once in a while tough.Cheers,Thomas

author: wingerr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 09, 2018, 03:04:57 pm
content: Are there any pictures of the opto isolator in its natural habitat?I'm going to go fiddle with it as my channel 1 is reading several negative kV. Don't know if there's a layout diagram available.My firmware is v1.06, must have gotten one of the earliest ones.

author: TurboTom
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2018, 06:03:34 pm
content: @wingerr: Zucca posted a nice high-res photo of his EPROM readout setup a few pages ago that you can magnify and cut to get the board almost full-screen. You see the analog couplers (the four wider ones -- HCPL-201A) directly next to the input amp shielding cans. I wasn't able to remove the cans for optocoupler replacement so soldering in the new ones is quite a bit of surgery... IIRC, I cut the old ones out, removed the terminals individually, cleaned the pads and then swapped in the new ones. You will need the gull-winged versions.

author: analogRF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2018, 06:23:30 pm
content: why those cans/shields could not be taken out?Are the components inside them soldered directly on the main pcb and the cans are just shields? or they are completely shielded hybrid modules with separate pcb inside and only some pins coming out?

author: TurboTom
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2018, 06:48:40 pm
content: There are just too many substantial ground tabs soldered in the PCB. The PCB is a multilayer with a lot of copper for grounding in this area and I just didn't want to risk damaging it. With some pre-heating it's surely possible to get the cans out. It's just a question which way is less tedious. For my own part I decided that I'll be able to replace the couplers without removing the cans which (for me) turned out to be the right decision.

author: Jim Narem
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2018, 05:33:14 am
content: Picture of an attenuator with the shield removed is here:http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/File:Ths720std-scopeanalog.JPG. There are other internal pictures of my unit (which is a STD, not an A) on the primary tekwiki page athttp://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/THS720I used metcal hot tweezers with wide tips to do mine, another method is to use chip-quik with a hot air gun. Clipping the pins is probably the easiest solution if you only have a soldering iron.Usually only the output optoisolators (U45, U46) need to be replaced. The two others (U50, U63) are reversed, they supply the attenuator with an isolated offset signal generated by the DAC multiplexer U5. They will all eventually wear out due to the ageing characteristics of the LEDs in the optocouplers. Not sure how good the long term supply of these parts will be due to the HP/Avago/Broadcom saga.

author: analogRF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2018, 02:04:49 pm
content: Quote from: Jim Narem on September 10, 2018, 05:33:14 amThanks for the great pictures. Actually I had seen and downloaded them from tekwiki long ago but somehow I had forgotten all about them.Anyhow, I have a question about the offset issue although currently I am experiencing another problem on top of the offset issue which I'll explain in another postI always thought U50 and U63 must be the culprits for the offset problem. Specially if the offset value changes with range, I suppose it must be going through the attenuators and therefore it must be coming from U50/U63. It seems to me if the offset is added by U46/U45 then you have a fixed amount of offset "divisions" on screen in all ranges. Am I wrong? At least in my case the offset value changes with range.Now if my understanding is correct, I wonder why shouldn't we be looking at U53/U74 opamp? If that opamp has developed offset over time that can equally mess up the offset voltage the same way that U50/U63 do.

author: analogRF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2018, 02:35:59 pm
content: I did more experiments with my THS scope and now I can see I have two distinct issues which I have not seen discussed before. Hope someone could give me a clue as to how to go about repairing it.1-The offset issue on channel 1: I have done the scope calibration twice and numerous SPC and the offset always "comes back" (read below) although it is much smaller than it used to be. Also the offset value changes with range.However, yesterday I noticed something that must have been there all along. When I plug in the power adapter, the offset gradually, over 2-3 minutes, disappears! and when I unplug it, it takes 2-3 minutes for the offset to slowly come back. The batteries are brand new and fully charged and their voltage is solid. How can that be?2-"High pass" type of response on channel 1: the bigger issue that I have with the scope is the freq response of channel 1. I connected my function gen with square waveform and a piece of coax with no termination directly to the scope. On channel 2, everything is honky dory on all ranges, the top/bottom of the pulses are flat and the gain is accurate and when I switch to sinusoidal the gain is perfect on all ranges. However, on channel 1 with the same setup, "only" on the two ranges (100mV-500mv and 10V-50V) the top and bottom of square wave is exponential with overshoot. When the wave period is long enough the voltage settles to the correct value, so the DC gain is OK (I have checked with DC voltage and the gain is perfectly ok) but if I increase the frequency it does not have enough time to settle so the square wave appears to have a larger amplitude than it should. And if I inject sine wave the gain is clearly wrong (larger than it must be) on those two ranges.I tried to measure the input impedance of the scope ports by connecting my LCR meter. On the good channel I get something around 28.05-28.3pF on all ranges (it changes about 0.25-0.3pF when jumping between the ranges) but on the bad channel I get 30.9pF on the two "bad" ranges and 28.08pF on the two good ranges. The scope spec is 25+/-2pF and I had to insert a BNC-SMA adapter in order to connect my LCR meter tweezers, so I know 1-2pF error must be ok but I cannot explain the inconsistency on those two bad ranges on channel 1One thing to note is that in those two ranges the X10 attenuator kicks in while in other ranges either there is no attenuator or only the X100 attenuator is in the signal path.Any suggestions?

author: Jim Narem
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2018, 10:11:11 am
content: I don't fully understand the operation of the scope, and I did this back in 2014, but when I instrumented the board and ran the cal proceedure it seemed that the signal passed IN to the atten board (called POS1 and POS2 in the CLIP schematic, generated by the DAC and passed by U50 and U63) changed the feedback loop on the optocoupler going OUT of the atten board. You need to read the datasheet on the HCNR201-300E optocoupler to see how the second photodiode is used to linearize the system. After I replaced the OUT optocoupler, the cal process passed. I watched the cal process by using a logic analyzer on the DAC to trigger a scope looking at the POS signal and the feedback line on the OUT optocoupler. With that setup, I could see the cal stepping the POS signal voltage and failing out due to lack of range. It may be possible that replacing either of the optocouplers may fix the problem; again, eventually both will have to be replaced due to ageing of the LEDs.You can run the board outside the case to probe around, see my picture here:http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/File:Ths720std-runningboard.jpg. A differential probe is needed to see the useful signals. I think I used a peltola to SMA adaptor to feed signals in to the atten board.My scope always takes some time to warm up, initially with some negative offset, then I do an SPC and it's fine.Your second problem sounds like a failing relay in the attenuator. The RF cover isn't too hard to remove with chip-quik and a solder sucker and the relays were available last I checked in 2014. The relays and the AC coupling cap are really the only things that mere mortals can repair on that atten board, so it's worth a try.

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2018, 10:43:09 am
content: Quote from: analogRF on September 10, 2018, 02:35:59 pmYes, should be quite obvious: There's an issue with the X10 attenuator. Maybe a capacitor gone bad. The usual scope attenuator is a parallel connection of a high impedance resistive divider and a capacitive divider of the same ratio. If DC is OK, I'd believe the resistors are still OK, but if you've got a deviation at AC, there's a mismatch in the capacitors. Older Tek scopes had the capacitors as trimmer caps, while in these ceramic hybrids the resistors get adjusted during the manufacturing process.I guess you'll have to remove the ceramic hybrid from the PCB to gain access to the capacitors, either they are underneath the relays, or on the other side of the ceramic.

author: analogRF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2018, 12:38:45 pm
content: Thanks @Jim Narem for the detailed response. Yes, I can see either of the optocouplers can cause the offset problemright now the offset is small and I can deal with that later but my major concern is the messed up frequency response of channel 1it seems the input capacitance changes to wrong value in two vertical ranges when the X10 attenuator kicks inmy suspicion is also the relay (the middle one) but I cannot quite figure out how/why the relay can causecapacitance imbalance? I can see it might cause unwanted contact resistance but capacitance? how?on the other hand, as you said, there is not much else on the attenuator board since the elements are all laser etched or somethingIt's also hard to imagine one of those integrated capacitors has changed its value over time

author: analogRF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2018, 12:42:59 pm
content: Quote from: capt bullshot on September 11, 2018, 10:43:09 amdon't you think the capacitors are also integrated inside the ceramic pcb? I mean like they are eatched into the circuit board?if they are underneath the attenuator, there is hope !also, can it be due to the relay as @Jim Narem suggests? Although i cannot figure out how the relay can cause imbalance capacitance

author: analogRF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2018, 01:05:13 pm
content: ....I think this might be how it works: there is a series C (or RC) between the input and output of the relay. when the X10 atten is out, the relay is closed and that series RC is short circuited and when the X10 atten kicks in, the relay is open and the series RC (or C) between the I/O of relay comes in to the signal path (parallel to the series branch of the attenuator ). So, that capacitor is probably at fault here not the relay itself.If that capacitor is a discrete component underneath the hybrid, i might have a chance but i don't know what the value should be.this problem seems very similar the issue people have had with Siglent SDS1202X-E early models for which a remedy was also discussed extensively on the forum but I dont know how exactly they modified the circuit....i do have that scope myself and it has that issue but I didn't care to fix it. never affected my work really...

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 11, 2018, 01:11:24 pm
content: You know we have the schematics, don't you?https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-ths700-tekscope-component-level-information-package-and-schematic/

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2018, 01:12:35 pm
content: Quote from: analogRF on September 11, 2018, 12:42:59 pmI've never taken a look into the shielded attenuators of these THS scopes myself, so I just was guessing. One can see a few capacitors soldered to the ceramic, especially the big one for AC coupling as I suppose. I've replaced the relays in my TDS580 attenuators (found some pictures here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-tds520b-attenuator-swap/), here one clearly can see the large metallized areas - these are the capacitors for their attenuators, see the laser trimming. I don't know wether the THS ceramics are made the same way or they've soldered discrete capacitors. For sure, one can see laser trimmed resistors there (Edit: looked again at the high res picture, looks like a trimming scheme applied to whatever is hidden under the blue coating, can't tell if it's a capacitor or resistor).QuoteFrom my opinion / experience, a weak relay should cause DC errors. Within the TDS 5xx / 7xx attenuators, weak relays cause SPC errors, and/or complete loss of signal for some attenuation settings. Exercising the relays can cure that for a while.

author: analogRF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2018, 01:14:20 pm
content: Quote from: zucca on September 11, 2018, 01:11:24 pmof course. But my frequency response problem is inside the attenuator hybrid (marked as AT1 on schematics) so the schematics don't help ....see the pictures posted by @Jim Narem athttp://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/THS720

author: analogRF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2018, 01:20:26 pm
content: @capt bullshot: I also believe the caps are etched into the ceramic. I highly doubt there is anything underneath that board.SPC passes on my scope with no problem and DC is perfectly fine on all vertical ranges. Only when I apply a square wave with long enough period I can see on those two ranges the pulses have a exponential riding on top of them with overshoot and then settling down to the correct value.Scope calibration didnt help either as most of the process only uses DC voltages.I wonder what might have happened to a ceramic etched capacitor to go bad?

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2018, 01:29:26 pm
content: Quote from: analogRF on September 11, 2018, 01:20:26 pmOvervoltage? Environment (humidity)?One of the laser cut links may have gone short again for whatever reason?I've had some defective ceramic caps in an old 7 series plug-in:http://wunderkis.de/tek-7/Don't know what caused them to go bad either.

author: Ice-Tea
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2018, 10:08:06 am
content: Joining the club: I got 6!First job: batteries!

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2018, 11:07:25 am
content: Wow, are all 6 of them THS720P?Are they supposedly broken or in working condition?

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 09, 2018, 11:24:25 am
content: Holly Molly... welcome to the club.I suggest you to build some DIY LI ION 2S battery packs, as discussed before here. If not I can sell mine NiMh pack used 2 hours in total.

author: Ice-Tea
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2018, 11:39:01 am
content: Yes, all 720P. Should be all perfectly fine, clearly labelled "excess", not broken or anything. And not a scratch on them. Just ordered a stack of 4500NiMh's

author: Ice-Tea
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2018, 10:04:35 am
content: Works like a charm!

author: Ice-Tea
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2018, 11:14:51 am
content: First unit on the Bay. This one includes 2 P5102's and a funky Fluke RF probe!

author: Maxis
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2018, 09:35:08 am
content: Gentlemen,I've got TEK THS720 without A. I wonder whether by a simple (nor not so simple) FW change it can be converted to THS720A. By looking at the main board is seems like the main components are the same (even down to the ID resistors in question). Have anyone done anything like this?Thank you!Maxim

author: hardcoreman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2018, 08:57:51 pm
content: Quote from: Maxis on October 20, 2018, 09:35:08 amsame idea... but no free time to test.... i think software will run.

author: heize0
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2018, 08:45:02 am
content: Has anyone still interested in topic? I have a broken THS710A due to flash memory's content being corrupted and stop from booting. I use the firmware of V1.08 been uploaded here to repair it. Now the machine can boot and operate. But it still seems to have some problem. When the time scale change from 500u/s to 200u/s and so on, the base line comes to be huge thick almost near 1div. I had checked the broken flash memory. It had the firmware version of V1.11, yet some content was different every time been read. Does anybody has newer version firmware?

author: heize0
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2018, 11:11:08 am
content: Finally, problem got be solved. It was not caused by the version of firmware, but due to uncalibrated. I did it and then everything went well.

author: superman13
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2019, 10:58:48 am
content: heize0Do you have dump of V1.11 firmware?

author: heize0
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2019, 02:11:22 pm
content: Yes. But it may be wrong because this is dumped from the one i repaired that could not boot.

author: TekWal
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 08, 2019, 02:05:07 am
content: I need some advice from the forum.Just got a nice THS720A for my daughter project. It is experiencing some weird power up behavior.The scope works fine but occasionally, it will just refused to boot up. Pressing the on/stdby button will just light up the backlight and nothing happened. I need to unplug the AC adapter and then plug in again with the on/stdby button pressed. After that it will works fine. Self-test PASS and there is not error messages on the error log status. Whenever the problem return, I will have to do the AC adapter unplug then plug-in + on/stdby button pressed fix. Just to add, there is no battery in the scope.Anyone experienced this problem?Anyway comments/feedback is much appreciated.Wally

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2019, 09:57:32 am
content: Are you using the original TEK charger?I had the same issue, when I used a cheap switch-mode charger and no battery in the scope.The original TEK charge is a heavy linear charger in good quality and no leakage.

author: mk_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2019, 08:25:58 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on April 09, 2019, 09:57:32 amI had no problems with any of my 3 different THS7xx -oscilloscopes with any charger - switchmode or linear - as long as it can deliver the required power.Even running them on a 12V pb-battery (fully floating on some highside-switchingnodes which can't be done with the external powersupplies) didn`t show any problems.

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2019, 08:04:29 pm
content: Hi folks,I have two questions:Is posible to modify a 730A to work with the options of the 720P with the resistors mod?This version of wavestar will work with the THS series?https://www.tek.com/oscilloscope/tds510a-software/wavestar-oscilloscopesThanksRegards

author: mk_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2019, 05:44:07 am
content: Quote from: harrimansat on May 21, 2019, 08:04:29 pmas the THS-Series is not listed I thnk it will not work with the SW

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2019, 10:04:18 pm
content: Quote from: mk_ on May 22, 2019, 05:44:07 amIt works!!!! but only a 9600, at others speeds it hangs, I have tested 2 serial cables

author: djnz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2019, 02:36:50 pm
content: I have saved images from my THS720A to my laptop at 38400 baud rate using a python script that I either wrote myself or found and modified (I forgot what exactly had happened).Seehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tek-ths720a-portable-scope-teardowndiscussion/msg1108612/#msg1108612for details.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2019, 08:29:04 am
content: I posted the WinTek32 software before:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tek-ths720a-portable-scope-teardowndiscussion/msg700940/#msg700940For screen captures, it works really well.

author: yaromka
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 12, 2019, 05:09:45 pm
content: Hi all, that is 1.16 FW full flash from my ths720a.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 13, 2019, 06:33:02 am
content: Thanksyaromka,I hope to start to work again on this projekt as soon as possible.This good new is also on the first page.How did you read out the FW?

author: yaromka
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 13, 2019, 11:30:46 am
content: You are welcome. I hope that it will be useful. I just removed IC from board and read data with TL866+.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2019, 02:46:32 am
content: As we have the latest firmware now, thanks to yaromka.The question is how do we upgrade it, without re-calibration if possible ?

author: rvalente
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2019, 07:21:06 pm
content: This is not broken, the polarizer is soooo burnt that looks bronkenMine is just like yours, got replace this polarizer and sabe this lcd

author: rvalente
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2019, 06:19:12 pm
content: Fixed my THS720P screen, these are the steps:First: buy the polarizer film replacement, from ebay or any local sourceTake the scope apartDisassembly the LM32P10 LCD, thake the glass + PCB out.Pull out the polarizersClean the residual glue/polarizer, tried many solvents, gasoline worked the bestClean the fingerprints with rubbing alcoholTry you polarizer in various angles, check what angle gets the best screen contrast (change the screen contrast on menu also)Cut the polarizer with a scalpel, a little bigger them the display, scissors will crack the polarizer film.Trim the excess with the scalpel.Do a better job than I did, cleaning the back light diffuser.There you have-it, a working screen for low cost.

author: rvalente
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2019, 06:20:03 pm
content: My backlight is very dimmed, I believe the lamp is showing its age. Does anyone have replaced the lamp or added a LED upgrade?

author: Tiberius1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 14, 2019, 03:47:48 am
content: Hi Zuccai have the std ths720 and it has a power supply issue - always draws current around 300ma when off and no batteriesCPU is warm which indicates the unit is on in some way.The schematics i found on this site seem to be a little different in the power supply section.My unit seems to be an older version.Are these units different throughout the models and age of the units in regards to the supply section?Would anyone have a copy of an older version if available?Thanks in advance

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 14, 2019, 10:28:36 am
content: If the voltage rails are ok why do you suspect the power supply?If there is too much current then there is a low impedence path somewhere outside the power supply.does the unit works properly?We habe only one schematic version available unfortunately.

author: goaty
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2020, 09:26:43 pm
content: Just got a 720A and converted it to 720P thanks to TurboTom.Wanted to test 730 mode which works also, you get the 1Gsps horizontal, but of course not the bandwidth.So the samplerate is there if anyone wants to try.Too bad there is no 730P mode ;-)

author: amindavid11
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2020, 11:18:39 pm
content: Do you think its possible to do the same thing with the no A version? THS720 to THS720P?

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2020, 09:29:41 pm
content: Mod works in my ths730 too

author: seebeck
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2020, 09:18:16 am
content: Great!!

author: MSS
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 19, 2020, 01:04:24 pm
content: Hi! Does anybody know, if it is possible to upgrade THS720(without letters) to the THS720P ?

author: djnz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2020, 08:57:00 pm
content: It looks like I need to change the polarizers of my LCD display.I tried searching but I do not know what kind of polarizer to get- transmissive or reflective or transflective. Are the polarizers used in mobile phone displays different from the scope's LCD? Could someone please link to suitable polarizers from ebay / AliExpress? Thank you!

author: superman13
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2020, 11:35:39 am
content: Quote from: djnz on August 07, 2020, 08:57:00 pmHi, I have changed polarizer film recently for one my old THS scope... Initially I was thinking that LCD is broken but after disassembling I was surprised that is LCD is still alive... just polarizers burned and lamp was broken...I have got polarizer film from one friend who uses this film for mobile phones screens... I don'n know exactly which model of film is, but after I have changed film and instead of lamp I have used an LED strip from some tablet... screen was not Black and White but Blue and WhiteStuff with color can be also a trick from different spectrum of LED strip for backlight...I have attached some photos with screen before and after... and also with LCD without polarizer film...By the way... getting out of glue from LCD is not the easiest stuff... tried a lot of solvents... best results achieved with Acetone from the lab and a new sharp blade...Before you glue new polarize film, play with angles and you will see when it is correct placed... Also I have used a Vacuum lamination chamberP.S. Use some medicinal gloves when removing glue and prepare some cotton pads to remove glue from blade... With acetone this glue does not completely dissolve and then you have to get a new blade...Good luck!

author: giacomo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2020, 08:34:58 pm
content: Hi guys, i have got a THS710A with the dc current offeset issue, i tried the offset compensation multiple times but it did not solved the problem.Since i did not have a function gen right now (i recently sold it and waiting for the new one), but i had a TL866 with the TSOP40 adapter i tried to update the firmware from the 1.11 --> 1.16 and do the resistor mods for turn it into a 720P.The mod and the update are gone perfectly and also after running the offset compensation just one time after the update the dc issue wanishes completly. No recal.superman13 i have a fluke 105B that has the same problem, i also removed the polarization screen (it has been big pain in the butt), coincedently i removed it in the same way.Now i have to purchase a new one, if you can get information about where your friend purchase it, i would be interested (in this way hopefully i would not wait one month to get one from china that will not work)

author: giovannirat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 08:29:56 am
content: Hi giacomo,can you explain how you did the update exactly? Removed the NVRAM and reprogrammed it or used a new chip?With the 1.16 firmware from yaromka ?Thanks for any information.

author: giacomo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 10:35:57 am
content: Quote from: giovannirat on August 13, 2020, 08:29:56 amYes, i desolderd the AM29F080, reprogrammed and soldered it again. To do that i have used hakko FX-888D (with a flat tip, but i think that any tips would be fine, i have not used a fine one), solder 0.7mm, solder wick, hot air 858D, flux pen. i would highly recomend (even if you have a perfect sight) a magnifying glass, even better a microscope that i did not have.For desoldering without damaging anything around i followed the steps (but first get confident with your tools):1) I added a blob of solder on the pins and short all of them, that for mix up new solder (and the flux in it) with the older solder2) remove the solder with the solder wick, do not push, use a good solder wick with a lot of flux in it, the solder will just flow into the wire3) add flux again with flux pen4) set the hot air to minimum air flow and 300°C and point it very close against the chip and remove itPay attention to not pull hard the chip while you are trying to remove it or the pads will come with it5) clean the pads with the solder wick, clean the chip if needed and check for short with the magnifing glass, clean it and the pad with a flux remover.6) set up the TL866, if you purchase the TSOP32/40/48 adapter from xgecu on alyexpress use the TSOP40A 8 bits adapter, select the ic try to read the old firmware, then update the new oneNow resolder the chip7) align the pin and put a solder across all of them in order to short all of them, no need to be precise8 clean your tip, add flux with a flux pen and move the tip slowly and gently against the pin, the excessive solder will accumulate on one side or it will remain stick to the tip9) use solder wick for the excess of solder and repeat from 8, a couple of times for each side while checking with the magnifing glass or the microscope if there is any shortRemove the resistors.Time needed around 40 minutes for me.Quote from: giovannirat on August 13, 2020, 08:29:56 amYes

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 10:38:01 am
content: Quote from: giacomo on August 13, 2020, 10:35:57 amThats all I need to hear, thank you.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 11:00:41 am
content: Quote from: giacomo on August 12, 2020, 08:34:58 pmCiao Giacomo,so you did not perform a full calibration after the upgrade? Are you sure it is still in spec?AFAIK the cal parameters are stored in the AM29F080, and you should have the calibration parameters of yaromka in your unit...

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 11:11:11 am
content: Can you please share 1.14 firmware?Thanks

author: giacomo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 11:47:08 am
content: Quote from: Zucca on August 13, 2020, 11:00:41 amI can't say that, for now i only tried the square signal for the probe compensation. I was interested to elinate the dc issue and i reported that once it has been disappear. So i screwed up the calibration in my unit without thinking about..By the way when i turned on the scope after the upgrade to the 1.16 the dc issue was still present as before, but this time the signal path compensation has worked, once and for all it seems, before it did not correct the problem.Quote from: harrimansat on August 13, 2020, 11:11:11 amWhy you would the 1.14 when you can get the 1.16 ? I had the 1.11 if you was asking to me

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 11:55:48 am
content: Quote from: giacomo on August 13, 2020, 11:47:08 amhi, can you please share 1.14 firmware?Thanks

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 12:52:21 pm
content: Quote from: giacomo on August 13, 2020, 11:47:08 amYeah, if you don't tell us why we will not give you the 1.14

author: giacomo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 01:05:48 pm
content: i got in contact with the harrimansat and even the 1.11 is ok for him, so i sent it in privateBut since my unit has been purchase as not working due to the dc issue, as first guess, my firmware would bring the problem back, so i am not sharing it in the forum, it could be a sorce of throuble if someone read the thread too fast and flash his unit with my firmware

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 01:13:20 pm
content: Thanks Giacomo,I forgot to welcome you to this amazing forum. I fully agree with you.Well done bro.

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 03:46:23 pm
content: Thanks, it will be interesting to have more dumps to knob where is calibration data

author: superman13
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2020, 05:50:12 pm
content: Quote from: harrimansat on August 13, 2020, 03:46:23 pmFor this we should get same version of firmware from different samples...Or if someone can perform calibration process and provide an Dump before and after...

author: giacomo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2020, 06:58:53 pm
content: Here is the 1.11 that was in the 710a with the dc problem

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2020, 05:11:22 am
content: QuoteI have done both now. Unfortunately the LED is not much brighter than the CCFL lamp. The LCD and optics just are not that bright. However it is a transreflective display so you can see it with the lamp off but in bright light it's not easy to read. I have the two side by side. Its useable but nowhere near as readable as a current LCD scope display. I would just put a new lamp in (cheap and not hard) and move on.

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2020, 03:02:55 am
content: Could somebody who has a pair of calipers do some measurements on the battery door/lid/cap that holds the battery pack in? Mine is missing on my THS720a. I have the metal piece that latches into place, but I'm completely missing the rest of it. I assume there is a groove for an oring to seal the compartment, but I'm not sure. A rough drawing with measurements would be ideal. I was hoping someone might have a 3D printed version, but I haven't been able to find anything.Thanks in advance.

author: Gae
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2020, 11:33:27 am
content: Yeah !What a great post about this scope !I have a question about this scope: I could buy one for about 260€, seeing it's a quite "old" design (from the 90's ?) is it worth to get it at this price ? They sell it on "good conditions" with very little use... but of course batteries will be maybe out of order ... and I see they have quite a problem with expensive replacement.The use will be mainly for audio, don't really need 100MHz but a handled scope is functional for me becouse I may have to repair "in situ" some times.I have an Hantek DSO8060 but I don't think it's a good scope, the screem is not very accurate and I have problems with after just a few month of use...Thanks for your help.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2020, 12:57:53 pm
content: Quote from: Gae on December 26, 2020, 11:33:27 amAt 260 Euro in good condition it is still a good scope to have, if you need a portable scope.Depending on the model you even get two isolated channels and that is a big benefit as well for some applications.I am still using my THS720p on a regular basis, although I probably have plenty of other and modern scopes.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2020, 01:04:02 pm
content: The major values of this scope are portable and fully isolated at each channel that are suitable for HV works.If you're buying this at the price, just for low voltage probing as common usage to replace you current Hantek, then I think its a bit of waste, as that kind of money can be used to buy new and more decent or much better DSO.Also you must take note especially with this scope, you have to use with the HV probes in order to use it at HV probing as where it good at, and these alone if the seller does not supply it, these HV probes, even the Chinese made ones are not that cheap either compared to ordinary cheap x10 scope's probes.For sure its out of warranty already.Edit : Almost forgot, the LCD backlight is NOT LED based (CFL), which has much higher risk that it will be dead at anytime soon.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 26, 2020, 07:59:48 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on December 26, 2020, 01:04:02 pmThis! +1000 times! Very important point!

author: Gae
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2020, 03:02:30 pm
content: Many thanks for the comments.Yes, I agree, I already have a DSO scope (not very good) and I'll save for a analogic one.Maybe an Hameg HM408 or a Tek 453 or a Philips PM3267 at about 100€. Witch one would be most recommandable for audio repair only ?

author: r_anton
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 17, 2021, 06:39:34 pm
content: Hello allI've bought THS730 version of the scope and after successful calibration it shows a ripple about 40mV peak-to-peak and the DC offset flows with time between -20..+20mVIs any way to improve it ?Thank you

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2021, 07:20:26 pm
content: Quote from: r_anton on January 17, 2021, 06:39:34 pmI will test with mine, can you please upolado some photos, whic is noise frequency?

author: r_anton
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 18, 2021, 08:35:19 am
content: Quote from: harrimansat on January 17, 2021, 07:20:26 pmHelloThese are the photos without and with probeFV:v1.14Thanx for reply

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2021, 09:47:21 am
content: Quote from: r_anton on January 18, 2021, 08:35:19 am

author: r_anton
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 18, 2021, 09:59:05 am
content: Quote from: harrimansat link=topic=35004.msg3419836#msg3419836a little bit more without probe and it has a kind of periodic type, with probe it become random. What is strange, like on the second foto, I don't see on the wave form measured peak-to-peak value of 23mV (often it's 40mV)

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2021, 10:19:13 am
content: Quote from: r_anton on January 18, 2021, 09:59:05 amCan you please make the same test in AC, and GND, and then shorted?

author: r_anton
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 18, 2021, 10:30:10 am
content: Quote from: harrimansat on January 18, 2021, 10:19:13 amOf course, thanx for helping

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2021, 12:27:03 pm
content: Mine has the same behaviour:If scope don´t meassure nothing with shorted inputs, it usually means it's ok.Think that this scope has isolated gnd and it has more noise when then are not connected

author: r_anton
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 18, 2021, 12:45:40 pm
content: Quote from: harrimansat on January 18, 2021, 12:27:03 pmThank you harrimansatso, it means, that it has minimum 40mV error ?

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2021, 12:59:59 pm
content: no, if you connect low, medium generator or resistor noise goes away. In high impeance meassurements noise is normal. For that with the probe you have less noiseRegards!

author: r_anton
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 20, 2021, 01:01:01 pm
content: Quote from: harrimansat on January 18, 2021, 12:59:59 pmThere is another one questionit's generally considered, that the emission of the led used in photocouplers will degrade over time, 50% degradation over 5years. Mine is manufactured in 1997.Have you any plans to change them ? Are they the same as in THS720 (HCNR201-300E) ?

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2021, 05:49:25 pm
content: If you don´t have "Cal error, DC balance" I think it is not necessary to touch them. If your scope pass SPC optos are within tolerance

author: lor3n7o
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2021, 12:28:10 am
content: hello I have read this post and I must say that it is very interesting.i wanted to make a request if someone can help me. i have a ths710a. i wanted to buy a P5102 HV probe but looking for it i saw that they have very high prices even if used. since it is passive I thought I would try to do it at home. does anyone of you know how the resistances of the divider 1/10 inside are configured?from the datasheet it is understood that the total resistance is 5Mohm but it is not clear if there is a resistive part on the ground terminal.thank you very much to those who can help me.Greetings

author: giacomo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2021, 08:42:50 pm
content: Quote from: lor3n7o on March 14, 2021, 12:28:10 amI think you are watching page 6 of the P5102 manual.That page do not show you the internal costruction of the probe, but it shows how your instrument (scope + probe) is loading your circuit, so 5M is the total resistance seen from the load.Try to look around, i think there must be a topic about the diy costruction of high voltage probes, maybe there are cheaper alternatives depending what is your need

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2021, 08:50:24 pm
content: what frequency/voltage do you need to measure? You can buy a cheap 1:100 probe, for example:https://www.ebay.com/itm/P4100-High-Voltage-Oscilloscope-Probe-Kit-100MHz-2KV-100-1-for-HP-Tektronix/133525219111?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D231489%26meid%3D683b171408414fa284fbea78ea267d59%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D323280509270%26itm%3D133525219111%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851

author: lor3n7o
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2021, 10:26:30 pm
content: thank you very much for your reply.very interesting this probe.I suspect that the tektronix P5102 probe has a particular connection on the reference signal (that of the crocodile and the outside of the bnc connector) which allows to increase the level of the floating measurement.look at the photo I am attaching.

author: lor3n7o
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2021, 10:35:34 pm
content: This P5102 probe is declared as passive.I suspect that on the ground terminal of the probe there is a resistance that guarantees greater isolation and thus the floating voltage that this ths700 oscilloscope can support increases from 30 to 600V.It's possible?Greetings

author: giacomo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2021, 11:36:11 pm
content: Let's say there is a resistor on the ground terminal of the probe and i want to use the P5102 on a grounded bench oscilloscope. Because.. Why not ?If i want to measure something that is ground reference that resistor would be shorted.With the same probe on my insulated oscilloscope it will not be and it should be part of the divider.

author: lor3n7o
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 12:09:40 am
content: the p5102 is a probe exclusively dedicated to the ths700.If my theory is correct it can only work on oscilloscopes with isolated channels such as the THS 700. It cannot be used on oscilloscopes with grounded ref, or with ref shared between channels.In the datasheet of the wave the p5102 is defined as floating probe for THS700.I am attaching a datasheet of the probe where it is illustrated.

author: giacomo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 12:23:23 am
content: You are righti was supposed to fully RTFM firstYou can still use other types of probes unless you have a specific requirementWe know that the input resistance of the scope is 1M, the probe is a 10:1 divider, assuming that we are measuring at DC it might be 9M distributed equaly between the two sides like 4.5M resistors plus another 10M resistor from the tip of the probe to ground, this would be a possible configuration in order that the scope plus the probe attached will be seen from the circuit like a 5M resistor at DCSimilar for the capacitance, the capacitance seen from the load should be 11.2pF, the result of the parallel between a capacitance from the tip to ground and the series capacitance of the scope plus another capacitance in order to form a 10:1 divider. The capacitance of the scope is 25pF, we need a 9x larger reactance, hence a 9x smaller capacitance, 2.8pF, 1.4pf in parallel with each 4.5M resistor. 11.2pF minus 2.8pF in series with 25pF = 8.7pF (adjustable) across the 10M resistorIt might be more appropriate to open another topic about probes.

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 09:55:35 am
content: Which is tHe max working voltage between BNC GND, 30V?

author: lor3n7o
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 12:13:32 pm
content: Quote from: harrimansat on March 17, 2021, 09:55:35 amI assume 60V.30V + 30V.30V between each BNC-GND to internal scope GND.30V when using a common probe or standard P6117.When using the P5102 this value rises to 600V.

author: lor3n7o
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 01:04:04 pm
content: Quote from: giacomo on March 17, 2021, 12:23:23 amyes, I also assumed there could be a configuration like this in the probe. the only difference I thought is that the capacities in parallel to the 4M5 resistors are 5.5pf and not 1.4pf.I believe the correct value is 5.5. to get the series 25pf-5.5pF-5.5pF = 2.48pF which in parallel with 8.7pf // 2.48 = 11.2pf.Can this be correct?It would be curious if someone who has a P5102 probe could check if there really is this resistance between probe ground and BNC ground.Do you think it is better to open another post?or we continue to talk here since we always talk about the ths700?

author: giacomo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2021, 01:47:51 pm
content: yes, i divided instead of multiply by 2 when i split that between the two sidesThe talk has drifted more about floating measurment with insulated oscilloscopes or diy probe construction, another topic or topics may reach a larger audiencehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/clarification-about-floating-measurement-with-an-insulated-oscilloscope/msg3516272/#msg3516272It has already received responces

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 10, 2021, 01:59:15 pm
content: QuoteTwo years ago, I wrote a software for my THS720P for grabbing the image from the scope and copy it to the clipboard, save it to a BMP file or print it. It should work with all devices out of this family. The interface allows all the functions of the device. I have only used the interface to setup the hard copy function and to trigger the hard copy function from remote.Have a try:https://www.schaeck.eu/download/?dir=THS7XX%20HardCopy

author: kleiner Rainer
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2021, 07:58:39 am
content: Great! I tested your software on a Win10 Home (build 20H2) laptop with a FTDI-based USB-to-RS232 adapter and the original serial cable that came with my THS720. Works perfect.Thanks a lot! Any plans to include some form of DMM logging for the THS-family?Greetings,Rainer

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2021, 09:54:55 am
content: Quote from: mrprecision on May 10, 2021, 01:59:15 pmThank you!So far I have only used the Wintek software successfully.I will try your software in the next few days and report back.

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2021, 07:27:22 pm
content: QuoteThanks for the feedback. I wrote the software in 2019 after I have repaired a THS720A. Since that time I have done some improvements. It is with version v1.1 possible to load the raw values out of the scope and do some post process with the software SignalAnalyzer, which is also programmed by me. So it is possible to zoom in the data, get statistic values and perform an FFT. If averaging is activated in the scope, the resolution will can be increased to 16bit. The THS7xx series was and is still a good and nice scope. The interface is well documented.Have a look:https://www.schaeck.eu/download/?dir=THS7XX HardCopyScreenshots:Averaging (Off/On 8/16bit):Time- & Frequency Domain (FFT):

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2021, 05:43:50 pm
content: I had some time last night and I have added a first function for the DMM. With this function you also post process the multimeter data. Anyhow the Scope stores only 480 samples in total. Old samples will be overwritten. So now it is a nice software, any further ideas?

author: kleiner Rainer
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2021, 02:16:37 pm
content: Tested THS7XX Hard Copy v1.2 and Signal Analyzer v4.2 while charging a car battery. The charger switches to trickle charge as soon as the battery reaches 14.5V. The log file and the time analysis show a strange behaviour during the fast drop of the battery voltage: it looks like every second data point is swapped. I attach the files to this post for reference and possibly bug hunting. Replace .txt with .sasGreetings,Rainer

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2021, 08:26:34 pm
content: I have measured a slope, and couldn't believe what I have seen. On the falling slope I see a similar behavior. I have debugged the software, but the values are transferred in the ASCII format and already there the values show this behavior. I don't know what I should change there? Why is it working on the positive slope?I had also problems with the scope values, the binary mode was not working correct, in the ASCII mode everything works fine.Has anyone ideas to the problem regarding the falling slope?

author: tv84
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2021, 08:38:31 pm
content: I would say that on the negative slope there must be some rounding that was not correctly implemented...

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2021, 08:46:01 pm
content: I have checked the binary transfer mode, there is the same result as for the ascii mode. I don't know what I should do?

author: tv84
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2021, 08:49:15 pm
content: Quote from: mrprecision on May 17, 2021, 08:46:01 pmFrom what you say, the problem is originated in the scope software so you can't do nothing unless you decide to do some averaging...Or, when on a falling slope, just swap the consecutives readings in pairs...

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2021, 09:00:13 pm
content: This has to be a bug from the scope...Maybe averaging is a good idea. I tried it, see the result:

author: tv84
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2021, 09:06:15 pm
content: Quote from: mrprecision on May 17, 2021, 09:00:13 pmBeauty!I would go with the averaging solution. Another Tek bug corrected.

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2021, 09:44:54 pm
content: I guess I figured out what the problem was. The scope is right and my software is also right too.The acquisition mode set to Peak Detect, so one sample is the min value, the second the max value. So that is the reason why we will only see this on the falling slope. So the scope represents the min and than the max value in the datastream. On the option Sample or Average this problem is not there, for this modes the same values is transfered twice.The everything is fine.

author: kleiner Rainer
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2021, 07:52:05 am
content: Problem solved - setting acquisition to "sample" was all that was needed.Greetings,Rainer

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2021, 06:47:05 pm
content: Thanks for the feedback, so you are happy with my tool, or do you have ideas for improvements?

author: kleiner Rainer
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2021, 12:33:07 pm
content: The tool is ideally suited for my purposes, logging data like charging/discharging curves of batteries. One little thing that comes to mind is a button to turn off the backlight during very long logging sessions (maybe via the POWER:BACKlight command?), and, if you are extremely bored, a way to set amplitude and time remotely.Here the latest logging of a car battery being charged by an intelligent charger:The two voltage drops to 12.5V are load tests, then you can see the charger starting with 3.8A, then at 13.9V dropping to 3A, then at 14.25V dropping to 800mA, and at 14.52V switching to trickle charge/standby.Again, thank you for a well-made and useful tool.Greetings,Rainer

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2021, 10:54:07 am
content: I think that there is no possibility to switch off backlight when is connected to AC with serial commands. The trick is disconnect the AC adapter and when backlight is off, connect AC againt. If you dont touch any key light will remain off.Quote from: kleiner Rainer on May 19, 2021, 12:33:07 pm

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2021, 06:43:44 pm
content: I have made a Video how to replace the CCFL Tube with a LED strip. The audio comments are in German.https://youtu.be/O7xh8Brg5Z8

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2021, 05:45:31 am
content: I followed the video as best I can without understanding the German. If you could share a few specific details-1) source for LED strip2) info on voltage converter3) details on the connections for the voltage converter.As I remember the wires are not colorcoded which is a great pain.I have two THX720's and they are both dim with the stock light, even with a new tube. I'm ready to do this.

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 11:56:38 am
content: I have added some comments to the YouTube video description...

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 11:58:11 am
content: If someone needs a Inverter with new CCFL for a replacement, I sell one at ebay:eBay auction: #334114408686

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 08:33:53 pm
content: Thanks for the link to your source for the LED strips. It explains one of the mysteries. I'm using LED strips targeted for larger screens. They have no current limiting and need an external part for that. I tried witrhout and all was fine until I plugged in the charger which fried the strip. The supply goes from 5V to 12V when the charger is plugged in. I did get it all sorted out. I'll provide some pictures of my efforts shortly.

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2021, 09:11:46 pm
content: Yes the voltage for the backlight is 5V if no external power supply is connected, otherwise 12V.

author: PIC18F2550
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 29, 2021, 01:15:01 am
content: Quote from: mrprecision on May 18, 2021, 06:47:05 pmhello mr precision, if you can add this option to read all mesured ?, i need this option because i using this oscilloscope for analyze frame of Protocol I2C/SPI/RS232/CANbus/JTAG please see the Picture canbus message of edc16c34 to my pic18f4580 this Picture is no full in ".bmp" files ,and see picture 2 of I2Cbus it fullthank to you for this soft and sorry for my bad enlish

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2021, 12:53:08 pm
content: Update the first post withmrprecisiongood work.I still have on my list the FW upgrade without losing the cal data.One day it will happen.

author: PIC18F2550
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 30, 2021, 01:46:54 am
content: Quote from: Zucca on August 29, 2021, 12:53:08 pmthank zoccaI don't think this is an update problem ,my FW is FV:v1.16

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2021, 07:21:19 pm
content: QuoteI actual don't understand the problem. I only can read you what is shown in the display. Can someone help me to understand the problem?

author: PIC18F2550
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 31, 2021, 06:03:48 am
content: Quote from: mrprecision on August 30, 2021, 07:21:19 pmhello mr precisionyou using the read fonction by address or by CMD/SETING name ? , try to use Horizontal Commands for set the number of full points in waveform(2500 points) before readingi use the C l'anguage for program my software , i can using the rs232 port if you can share the source file ? , i try to add new fontion by rewrite your code in C languagein "Programmer Manual" try to read all text from page 59 to 64 see (2.29) in page 59Code:Waveform CommandsWaveform commands let you transfer waveform data points to andfrom the instrument. Waveform data points are a collection of valuesthat define a waveform. One data value usually represents one datapoint in the waveform record. When working with envelopedwaveforms, each data value is either the min or max of a max/minpair. Before you can transfer waveform data, you must specify thedata format, record length, and waveform locations.and see (2.30) in page 60Code:Waveform Data/Record Lengths. You can transfer multiple points foreach waveform record. You can transfer a portion of the waveform oryou can transfer the entire record. The DATa:STARt and DATa:STOPcommands let you specify the first and last data points of thewaveform record.When transferring data into the instrument you must specify thelocation of the first data point within the waveform record. Forexample, when DATa:STARt is set to 1, data points will be storedstarting with the first point in the record, and when DATa:STARt isset to 500, data will be stored starting at the 500th point in the record.DATa:STOP will be ignored when transferring data into theinstrument as the instrument will stop reading data when there is nomore data to read or when the record length has been reached.When transferring data from the instrument you must specify the firstand last data points in the waveform record. Setting DATa:STARtto 1 and DATa:STOP to 2500 always returns the entire waveform.thank to you and sorry for my bad english

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2021, 06:45:40 am
content: I think you are asking to pull the data from the scope in a format that would allow for decoding the various serial formats you mentioned. Please confirm. And be more specific about the format you need the scope output in if not the native format Tek used..

author: PIC18F2550
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 31, 2021, 07:08:34 am
content: Quote from: 1audio on August 31, 2021, 06:45:40 amno, it's not a format problem, you need only to set the DATa:STARt and DATa:STOP CMD setting from 1 to 2500 point

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2021, 05:32:53 pm
content: I still don't understand the problem. In the scope view I read out 2500 samples. You can see this also on the sample files on my webpage.This are some of the parameters I set at the beginning:Code:interfaceWrite("DATA:ENCDG ASCII");interfaceWrite("DATA:WIDTH 2");interfaceWrite("DATA:START 1");interfaceWrite("DATA:STOP 2500");interfaceWrite("CURVE?");For the DMM there are only 480 Samples to read in total.

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2021, 05:46:34 pm
content: I checked it again

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2021, 07:48:15 pm
content: So I have checked it in detail.Here are the screens, one with all samples and one with the MAG function (zoom):And here are exported raw data:So for me everything is fine.

author: PIC18F2550
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 04, 2021, 11:05:37 pm
content: Quote from: mrprecision on August 31, 2021, 07:48:15 pmhello mr precisiontry to read several times, with only the command "DATA: START " , no need to use the command "DATA:STOP" , you need the "DATA: START " only for read the data from instrumentfor example the first timeCode:interfaceWrite("DATA:START 1");the second timeCode:interfaceWrite("DATA:START 2500");the third timeCode:interfaceWrite("DATA:START 5000");change only the value of command "DATA: START" in your code and read several times

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2021, 06:32:22 am
content: Quote from: PIC18F2550 on September 04, 2021, 11:05:37 pmI don't understand how you should read out more than 2500 samples. I only can readout the values for the timespan shown in the screen. Please read the programming manual. Anyhow, I have tried out interfaceWrite("DATA:START 2500"); this returns only value, like I expect. Its the last value.So out of my point of view I could not improve anything.

author: vittoles
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 21, 2021, 08:18:20 am
content: Hi Sir,did you get the info about pinout for the new DC/DC converter to replace the inverter?best regardsDan.

author: zoiasso
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2021, 01:00:58 am
content: Anyone know anyway to replace the bnc connector on THS720p? The service manual says the bnc is part of the chassis, but it looks like fited in there, im trying to figure out how to remove them. I have 2 scopes with plastic broken on the bnc connector that need replacement.

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2021, 05:15:51 am
content: those connectors are a real problem. They are unique to that scope although similar connectors exist. Those have a special connector on the back that the coax fits into. If you want to maintain the full isolation these are designed to provide you need the plastic connectors and then I think you could just solder the cable from the board to the pins on the back of the connector. It would all be a little crude, but better than not being able to use the scope. I found the similar connectors from a vendor in China. I'll look for the info and post it if I can find it.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2021, 12:39:58 pm
content: Does anyone have a spare CCFL inverter that I can purchase please ? I have a TH720A that came to me without the inverterFraser

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 31, 2021, 04:46:32 pm
content: I think I have one. However redoing the backlight with LED's works so much better and is not too hard.Unfortunately you need to first boost the supply and then go to a regulator to drive the LED's.PM me if you want the CCFL supply. I suspect the shipping from the US may be more than the LED parts from China.

author: wingerr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 14, 2021, 04:04:42 pm
content: This is the description of the input section of the Tekscope, and I have an intermittent problem where channel 1 signal is at some negative saturated level offscreen, possibly out of common mode range. Sometimes, but rarely, it will work normally when I turn it on, and the signal sits at zero as it should. Has there been any components identified that could be causing this problem? Since it's intermittent, it seems that something isn't being biased correctly, but when it works, it works 100 percent, with no middle ground. Wondering if it might be a fractured solder joint, or maybe a failure of something like this:Component number A1AT1Tektronix part number 165–0034–00Serial no. effective B030100Name & description MICROCKT,HYBRID:ATTENUATOR/PREAMPLIFIERMfr.code TK2601Mfr. part number 165–0034–00THS720A MOD NV Component-Level Information PackageComponent-Level Theory of OperationThis section describes the electrical operation of the THS720A MOD NV. Referto the schematics in the Component-Level Diagrams section as necessary.Logic ConventionsThis manual refers to digital logic circuits with standard logic symbols andterms. Unless otherwise stated, all logic functions are described using thepositive logic convention: the more positive of the two logic levels is the high(1) state and the more negative level is the low (0) state. Signal states may alsobe described as “true” meaning their active state or “false” meaning theirnon-active state. The specific voltages that constitute a high or low state varyamong the electronic devices.Active-low signals are indicated by an asterisk (*) following the signal name,for example IRQ*. Signal names are considered to be either active-high,active-low, or to have both active-high and active-low states.Oscilloscope SystemEach of the two oscilloscope input signals enters the main board and passesthrough an attenuator and preamplifier. Then each signal passes through anisolation interface before reaching the trigger circuitry and sampler/digitizer. Thedigitized signals are written into system memory for transfer to the displaysystem.The acquisition system amplifies the input signals, samples them, converts themto digital signals, and controls the acquisition process under direction of theprocessor system. The acquisition system includes the trigger, acquisition timing,and acquisition control circuitry.Attenuators. Circuitry in the attenuator selects the input coupling andattenuation factor. The processor system controls the attenuators with a serialinterface as well as with DC control voltages.The Main Board assembly contains two attenuator hybrids (AT1 and AT2). Toallow floating measurements, the attenuators are individually isolated from therest of the Main Board by an isolation interface. Power to the attenuators iscoupled through transformers. Opto-isolators couple control voltages and DCcontrol signals to each attenuator. Transformers couple the high-frequency signalpath from each attenuator to the main board. Opto-isolators couple the low-fre-quency signal path from each attenuator to the main board.Each attenuator hybrid contains two attenuators, an AC coupling capacitor, threerelays, three relay drivers, and a preamplifier. The AC/DC coupling relay couplesthe output of the BNC to the other relays in the attenuator hybrid. For ACsignals, the AC/DC coupling relay inserts a coupling capacitor into the inputsignal path. The second relay selects a X10 attenuation factor. The third relayselects a X100 attenuation factor.edit: Interestingly, I just had the scope powered up for a while, and the channel just recovered on its own without any action on my part- I don't use the scope regularly, and maybe some part of the circuit is getting discharged from disuse. I'll have to see if using it more regularly prevents this from occurring, or if the problem is just a Fluke-

author: zyxel13
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2022, 09:36:31 am
content: Hello,its quite some Time that news have been posted here, but did anyone managed to make a FW Update without de-soldering the Flash and loosing the calibration ?Thankyou,Cheers,Konstantin

author: vishaldotgupta
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2022, 12:19:22 pm
content: i might have inverter for THS710A

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2022, 05:30:50 pm
content: Hello, I recently bought a THS710A. I am surprised that it is possible to "convert" it to the THS720P model, I would like to know if removing the resistors shown in the photo, the conversion is already done or there are other additional steps. Best regards!

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2022, 05:40:43 pm
content: Hello, in my case I also have the same problem, is a function generator necessary to correct this offset? or with a DC source enough?

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2022, 06:22:07 pm
content: Hello, I will not find the Metratek software available for download, could you please provide it?About the display screen: Probably a change of polarizers is necessary, the procedure is simple (although time consuming)

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2022, 07:00:27 pm
content: Hi, how long does it work with those two 18650 batteries?

author: little_grey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2022, 07:04:03 pm
content: Using the lithium cells will need the internal charger to be changed as currently its only nmhi at the moment.

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2022, 07:21:51 pm
content: It's not broken my friend, it's only the glue from the polarizers, you can remove them and carefully clean the screen with thinner (it took me about 3 hours of careful cleaning), then buy two 11.4 x 8 cm self-adhesive polarizers, both can be 90 or 0 degrees. Then, before peeling them to the screen, verify that the orientation is correct.

author: little_grey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2022, 07:48:03 pm
content: On the subject of broken, does anyone want to buy a scope with a broken ocptocoupler if anyone is up for it

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2022, 08:39:28 pm
content: You can do tests using a 12V 1A linear charger (those that use transformer and wave rectifier by diodes)

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2022, 08:57:36 pm
content: It is pressure fitted, try to find Peltola to BNC131-1171-00.https://www.ebay.com/itm/234579243572

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2022, 09:21:40 pm
content: I bought here:https://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-1661053011-pelicula-polarizadora-adesiva-lcd-led-15cm-x-15cm-_JM

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2022, 09:55:26 pm
content: try calibrating without 12v source

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2022, 10:11:00 pm
content: Hi! could you re-upload the program? It seems that it is not possible to download it anymore

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2022, 11:43:09 pm
content: maybe that:https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/32791263067.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2bra

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2022, 11:22:53 am
content: Hi!, what is the molex datasheet that does not match? what exactly does not match? I can help you look for it in my free time, but I would like to know that it does not match excactly, so that I can find it through sizing

author: mk_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2022, 11:50:33 am
content: Quote from: walter.aranda on December 23, 2022, 11:22:53 amI have no idea to whom you answer in Reply 397... so...while answering in some kind of monolog it could be a great help for someone like me using the quote-function and also the quote-tags.TIA

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2022, 01:50:00 am
content: I find this seller for display:https://www.panelook.com/SP12Q01L6ALZZ_KOE_4.7_LCM_parameter_17750.html

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2022, 02:18:48 am
content: I find a compatible display (320x240) 4.7inch

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2022, 01:26:55 pm
content: check this ebay's photo about a firmware update card (TEKTRONIX 671-1701-01 ) , the connector is very similar to the one used in TEK THS7XXX series:

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2023, 02:43:57 pm
content: My turn to crack one of these things open.I just got myself a THS720 STD with soft case and power supply for a bit under US$80.It has the common burnt LCD polarizer (Not sure if I'll play with sourcing the correct polarizer to suit the STN/FSTN LCD or just throw a whole new LCD in, I'm not a fan of the yellowish on blue that you get with using standard polarizing filters..) and it also needs batteries so I'll be fixing this one up all good and proper.So far, I have found a possible replacement for the DMM input jacks, they are marked as Mueller 3160X, and the closest I've found so far is theBU-31602-0 (Black)andBU-31602-2 (Red)They aren'texactlythe same as the pin is straight on the Mueller part, but the Tek part has a groove cut to help retain the clips on the jumper wires.Testing will tell if friction is enough or if a dab of solder or a quick turn in a lathe to cut a groove is needed.I'll leave that up to someone else to explore as my DMM jacks appear to be fine.As for the BNC jacks (mine are useable but have a few chunks taken out) I am thinking of cutting the existing ones away and installing something likethese from ebay. Actually, even better... Part number 67.9766-21 (but it's for RG58 cable) or 67.9764-21 from Staubli look realllly good and aren't too expensive from RS Components..I am planning to convert the top cap for the battery compartment into a battery contact using some tinned copper braid (leaving the side contact in place inside the scope) and use a set of 4000mAH GP brand Ni-MH C size batteries.I just need to figure out the best way to reattach the metal piece to the plastic cap, as mine has also broken as usual, and solder to the stainless steel metal piece. I'm thinking either some silver braze, or copper plating then solder.Then it's a firmware upgrade, recalibration and experimenting to see if it can be upgraded to a THS720P

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2023, 03:04:01 pm
content: Ok, I have reason to believe that the original designers had the idea to allow the use of standard C-size batteries, or at least a stick of batteries in a pack without that side ring arrangement, but it was scrapped for whatever reason...I was thinking it was a bit odd that the metal piece was part of the battery cap when a plain plastic part would have been cheaper to produce and would work fine, unless there was a last minute design change...Take a look at the attached image.. See the strange shape moulded into the top edge of the hole the battery passes through? I would bet money that a small metal contact was intended to go there so when the lid was installed, the metal part would contact both the top of the battery (or top cell) and the (missing) contact and allow for the use of standard cells.I think it would be trivial to bend up a little bit of metal from some nickel or similar to clip in there and give the scope the option for either battery use case.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2023, 12:18:21 pm
content: And here's the clip installed.Just cut out of a sheet of 0.35mm thick nickel and bent with small pliers and finally filed to an interference fit.The +ve lead will be extended from the existing side contact and soldered to the tab there.All going well, when the lid is installed the metal part will make contact with the clip and the battery to complete the circuit.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2023, 07:11:22 am
content: And finally, it's all assembled.A little tweaking is needed to ensure a firm contact between the battery door and the clip, but it works quite well.For the battery door repair, I used a little bit of a pencil eraser carved to fit where the retainer strap locates and then held it in place as I filled the rest of the cavity with JBWeld.Once it had hardened, I cut the eraser out and then filed the JBWeld flat. Be careful of the locating pin for the retainer strap! It sits higher than the edge of the cap so you have to file around it rather than just filing or sanding over the whole face at once.I then drilled and tapped (not too deep!) four M2 holes where the broken pins were and drilled and countersunk the holes in the stainless steel plate (You can probably do a better countersinking job than me...).Four M2 x 4mm countersunk screws and some superglue as threadlocker had it all assembled as solid as can be.Reassemble the case and now you can use standard C-size cells in your THS700!

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2023, 01:47:06 am
content: I came to the same conclusions on the top cap:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-ths-7xx-battery-mods/A couple of things that may not be obvious on the photos, there isn't quite enough length for standard cells, I cut away some of the scope's plastic under the negative contact spring, it was still a quite tight fit for the positive cap / lock so to not ruin the plastic I slightly bent and filed the edge that engages into the plastic so that it would enter without risk of wearing the edges.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2023, 04:55:56 am
content: Huh, we both did almost exactly the same thing, right down to the shape of the clip.I didn't carve any plastic from the end yet as I didn't have a standard battery to compare to.

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2023, 05:22:14 am
content: The pre-A version is more than a little different and the firmware to add the -p option may be not possible. The pre A does not have the ability to use the meter input as a trigger source. There may be other hardware level things that could bite.The BNC's they used had a clever connection that is reminiscent of an F connector using the center conductor directly into the female socket. The outside of the BNC is insulated so they meet the safety standards. But the #$#&^% pins all break off so the connections are loose. . .I converted to LED backlight which makes an enormous difference in utility. The hard part is power for the LED's The power on the connector swings a lot.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2023, 05:48:04 am
content: Well, I just bought a THS720P for equal to about US$120, working screen, no accessories.I might take a couple high resolution photos of the PCB's of both the THS720STD and THS720P and compare them to see if there's any obvious differences.I've been eyeing this backlight mod, might make a PCB order soon...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-ths7xxx-scope-ccfl-controller-drop-in-replacement-for-led-conversion/msg4775420/#msg4775420

author: 1audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2023, 03:47:24 pm
content: That power supply board is a much better solution than the 2 board kludge I used. Maybe someone will make a run of those through JLBPCB or other cheap source.

author: eliocor
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 28, 2023, 01:14:42 am
content: Attached you will find the printable .STL file of the THS720 battery holder.You will also find the Fusion 360 / STEP of the project + drawing/dimensions of the battery contact.The O-ring type is OR2100 (25.12x1.78mm)

author: zyxel13
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2023, 04:34:11 pm
content: Hello to all,some time ago I uploaded on the forum my 1:1 Drop-in LED Backlight Controller for the THS7xx Series of Tektronix Isolated Scopes.In case of any interest, I just uploaded my Design of an replacement External Charger for the THS7xx Series Battery Pack:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-ths710-ths720-ths730-external-battery-charger-build/msg4840787/#msg4840787Cheers,Konstantin

author: vishaldotgupta
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2023, 01:55:10 pm
content: hi,i got a led backlighted blue type LCD for this scope from china. its a custom design. will not need conventional ccfl driver. original sharp displays are difficult to get. fitting this one needs some modifications as its height is 1 mm more than the sharp. but prices are good. new display with backlight is just USD 60.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2023, 01:52:40 pm
content: So, with a heap of help fromHakan (Zenith)I have been able to dig up some info on the official firmware update process for these units.I think someone smarter than me could possibly reverse engineer the software side of the process to create something possibly with a modern bit of hardware, maybe a Raspberry Pi type thing?I uploaded the info so far to Tekwiki, including the user manual with schematics of the Communications Pod, the RomBurn PC software and the THD700 and TDS300 firmware files:https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/067-1436-00The real trick in reproducing the Pod is in finding the Motorola Dev Board, and getting a copy of the EPROM on the Pod mainboard, the rest looks pretty straightforward in terms of parts.

author: seqvenzer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 09, 2024, 05:22:23 pm
content: The safety BNC Input Connectors:Tektronix Part No.: 131-6263-00, "CONN, RF JACK; PLASTIC BNC, ADAPTER; FEMALE, STR, FRONT PNL/PELTOLA JACK, 0.501 MLG X 0.485 TAIL, PUSH-IN"Inner Body: BrassCenter Conductor: Beryllium CopperInsulator: TeflonOuter Body: 66 NylonManufacturer Part No.:Mueller Electric - BU-X90132 (this was the last one)Unknown Mfr. - MP1592381 (maybe the one prior to Mueller?)Not sure if anyone has had luck replacing these. One of mine is cracked and I would like to replace it. Would appreciate reccos for which replacement parts gave you the least grief.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2024, 12:05:59 am
content: I replaced some using the Stabuli 67.9764-21 connectors.Basic instructions:- Cut off the plastic outer from the BNC in the scope- Press out the metallic center leaving the plastic outer section of the BNC still in the scope housing- Tap out the resulting hole with a 1/8-28 straight BSP thread tap- Drill the center hole in the center contact of the BNC deeper, but not all the way and cut the contact shorter.- Solder an SMB connector and insulate with glue heatshrink. (I would make it shorter than in my photos if I did it again).- Install BNC into scope- Desolder existing Peltola flyleads from motherboard and remove metal crimped piece from PCB end of cable.- Crimp/solder the crimped metal bits to some SMB flyleads- Attach the flyleads to motherboard- Reassemble the scope.You'll need to massage the angle of the SMB connector on the BNC for clearance, but the metal is soft so it will bend a few degrees no problems.Also, the flylead will need to do a loop at the top of the motherboard then pass through the cutout to the bottom side for another loop before it attaches to the BNC assembly, to prevent sharp kinks in the cable.I've attached a couple photos that might help show things.I haven't tested how it affects bandwidth yet, once I get the LCD working, that is next on the list. I don't expect it to make much difference at all though.

author: seqvenzer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 10, 2024, 04:11:03 pm
content: Super clear description and photos TERRA.Do you recommend a mild application of Loctite or anything of the sort on the threads to keep the shell in place? I'm guessing the original was pressure-fit from both ends so it wasn't going to go anywhere.This is a significant departure from having the Peltola connectors sadly. Oh well

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2024, 04:17:28 pm
content: I wouldn't use thread locker as it tends to destroy certain plastics (and I think chemically needs the metal to initiate the curing process anyway?), but some superglue might be a good idea. However, the threads are relatively fine and can be torqued pretty well regardless.It is too bad about losing the Peltola connectors, they are nice and compact and I do like them. SMB is the best I found that were readily available and allowed for simple disconnection to remove the motherboard if needed.As I mentioned, cutting the center contact shorter than I did would probably help fitment though.In the end it does look nice from the outside and is functional with the isolation etc. Better than a broken scope anyway.Let us know how you go if you give it a try!

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2024, 05:53:01 pm
content: can't recall the number but loctite as one glue who will not damage plastics

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2024, 11:11:34 pm
content: I use Loctite 401 superglue which is really good, but I have never looked for a plastic safe thread locker so I'm no help there.

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2024, 01:14:14 am
content: Quote from: mrprecision on May 13, 2021, 05:43:50 pmHello, I have tried various methods to connect to the serial port using a PC with Windows 10 and an RJ45-USB cable that I bought separately, but I have not been successful. I found this response and wanted to test with that software (THS7XX.exe), but the page does not load. Could you please send me a new link? Thank you!

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2024, 01:20:40 am
content: Quote from: mrprecision on May 12, 2021, 07:27:22 pmHi! I have tried various methods to connect to the serial port using a PC with Windows 10 and an RJ45-USB cable that I bought separately, but I have not been successful. I found this response and wanted to test with that software (THS7XX.exe), but the page does not load. Could you please send me a new link? Thank you!

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2024, 05:12:54 pm
content: Install any terminal program like realterm for example. Check serial port number and speed, RS232 baud rate.Send ID?Check response

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2024, 05:24:49 pm
content: Thank you for the information. I have verified that the device is recognized by the system (Windows 10) and that the driver is correctly installed. Likewise, I have checked with a small test program that the output on the 'Tx' pin is sending data. However, it is still not recognized by my TH7xx. I have read that this could be due to an operating system issue. What operating system are you using?

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2024, 05:26:23 pm
content: W8 & W10 & WXP with a USB to serial CH340

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2024, 05:34:55 pm
content: check this

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2024, 05:19:03 am
content: Quote from: harrimansat on July 05, 2024, 05:26:23 pmHi I use W10 64bit, and the same USB-RJ45 (serial chip CH340) I attach a photo of product and also the driver.

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2024, 11:00:18 am
content: Your cable isn´t compatible with the THS, you need to change pins position. You will need to change the connector or buy a custom RJ45 to RJ45 box

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2024, 12:05:43 pm
content: Sorry, I forgot to mention that detail. It's true, the pinout of that cable is different from the THS, so I changed the pin order to match, but I have not received a response. I am using THS7XX.exe and wintek32.exe to perform Hard copy tests. I noticed a peculiarity: I created a program in Python to use the serial port (attached). The program sends a request through the Tx pin and waits for a response on the Rx pin. Looking at the pin order provided by the cable manufacturer, I noticed it does not match, and according to what I saw on the pins (with a logic analyzer), I have the following:pin 4: GND (blue)pin 5: Tx (brown)pin 6: Rx (orange)This does not match the manufacturer's information, and I have not received any response from the oscilloscope. I also changed the pins to match what the manufacturer indicates and still got no response. Is it possible that to open the THS serial port, a request must first be sent on a certain pin (in the THS.exe program, a series of data is sent through the DCD pin)? Another thing I noticed is that when I press HARDCOPY on the oscilloscope and look at its own pins (with the same scope), I do not get any response from any of its pins when I press that button, is it correct?Regards

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2024, 01:06:46 pm
content: I used a 'Cisco compatible' RJ45 to USB cable and here's the pinout I used.I've built a few of these and they work great.

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2024, 07:34:40 pm
content: Hello, I followed your advice and bought a cable with an FTDI chip (the ones that are compatible with Cisco). However, I have seen the pin order that you provided in the photo you sent, and I can't understand it since, according to the documentation of this cable, I have the following order:**Original FTDI cable pinout:****RJ45 Male** | **Description** | **Tektronix**1. Brown | CTS | DCD2. Purple | DSR | DSR3. Yellow | RXD | DTR4. Red | GND | GND5. Black | GND | RxD6. Orange | TXD | TxD7. Blue | DTR | CTS8. Green | RTS | RTSAnd according to what you sent, the pin configuration is:**RJ45 Male**1. RTS2. DTR3. DSR4. GND5. TX6. RXD7. RTS8. CTSI am attaching an image of:a) Recommended pin order by Tektronix: (in the panel is the order of the female connector)b) Pin order of the FTDI USB-RJ45 cableFinally, I don't understand why the Green pin is repeated twice, as for the THS720P this pin is not repeated. I would appreciate it if you could help me. Regards!

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2024, 11:03:15 pm
content: I followed what was done in this link. It's roughly a null-modem setup.It worked so I didn't look any further into it...https://ameblo-jp.translate.goog/taku-tp2019/entry-12557695619.html?_x_tr_sl=ja&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=jaRXD/TXD, RTS/CTS, DSR/DTR all need to be transposed between themselves from end to end.Looking at a null modem pinout, maybe DSR should be connected to DCD at the scope end. Maybe try it and let me know what happens?

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2024, 08:10:13 pm
content: I just bought an FTDI cable, and I noticed that the driver was automatically recognized in Windows 10. Another thing I noticed is that the color pattern that arrived here is different from the one commonly used on the internet. This corresponds to the following link:https://rocstor.com/product/rocstor-premium-cisco-usb-console-cable-usb-type-a-to-rj45-rollover-cable/However, the pin order follows the Cisco pattern and does not alter its functionality:| FTDI Cable | Description | New Color Pattern ||------------|-------------|-------------------|| 1 Brown | CTS | Black || 2 Purple | DSR | Brown || 3 Yellow | RXD | Red || 4 Red | GND | Orange || 5 Black | GND | Yellow || 6 Orange | TXD | Green || 7 Blue | DTR | Blue || 8 Green | RTS | Purple |I followed your recommendations and arranged the pin order according to the photo you sent me. I also wrote a small program that tests the behavior of the RTS, DTR, and TXD output pins, which I am attaching. The program can work in conjunction with a cheaper network tester (network testers use GND on pin 4 and work perfectly for our purpose).To summarize, I have not yet succeeded in connecting with the THS. I also noticed that if I connect a network cable and the network tester, pressing the Hardcopy button does not produce any variations in the outputs (I am sending a short video). I now suspect that the serial chip of the THS (hacked THS720P (FV 1.08)from THS710A) might be defective, but I have no way to quickly verify this without another THS to compare with. If anyone has one and could perform this test, it would be helpful...

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2024, 09:09:39 pm
content: Quote from: walter.aranda on July 11, 2024, 08:10:13 pmUpdate: I noticed that by changing the baud rate to 38400 and testing with the THS7XXX HardCopy v1.3.exe program, I successfully performed a HardCopy!!!Many thanks to 'TERRA Operative' for the help; without you, it would have taken me longer to achieve a good result.Connection Summary:- Device: THS710A hacked to THS720P- Operating System: Windows 10 X64- FTDI USB-to-RJ45 Cable- Scope Configuration: baud rate 38400- Test Program: THS7XX.exe

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2024, 02:08:55 am
content: Hello, thank you for your input. I have been doing some tests here and I noticed that the post-processing options are not working in the program. What could be causing this?

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2024, 05:05:31 pm
content: I am having a similar issue. I've installed THS7xx.exe and SignalAnalysis apps. I can get a hard copy, either single or continuous. But when I press Ch1 under SignalAnalyzer, I either get "The selected channel is not activated" when it is, or "The values of the scope display could not be read out.", or both. HardCopy shows my THS720A as connected. I'm on firmware version 1.11 for the 720A, HardCopy v1.3, and SignalAnalyser v4.0. I'm at the 38,400 baud, using the Tektronix serial cable, direct to a serial port on my CF-19 laptop.Any ideas?Jon

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2024, 05:21:17 pm
content: Yes, I have not yet been able to solve this problem with the error in post processing, at the moment I am using Wavestar (official Tektronix software), it is a good idea since Tek released the use licenses. It's good, the only bad thing I think is that sometimes it hangs and doesn't let me reopen it and I have to restart the PC.

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2024, 05:42:08 pm
content: I also found SignalAnalysis v4.2, but the same issue.Where did you find the Wavestar software and license info?Jon

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2024, 08:06:03 pm
content: I had the same problem, until I fount out that if you close in process manager some 32 bits process, I don´t remember the name, you can restart wavestar.

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2024, 10:06:02 pm
content: Harrimansat and Walter,I found a link to various Wavestar versions and the license number to use. What version are you using? I'm having a devil of a time getting the last version to connect. I get a little further with an earlier version that isn't so dependent on TekVisa, but am still having issues. Any tricks?Edit: I got Version 2.6 to work. I'd like to get version 2.8.1 to work, as 2.6 is limited to 9600 baud, and 2.8.1 can do 38,400 baud.Jon

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2024, 07:07:28 am
content: wavestar 3.0

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2024, 01:33:56 pm
content: I didn't realize 3.0 was available. Just found it. I'll give it a try. Thanks!Jon

author: harrimansat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2024, 04:17:49 pm
content: For my only works well at 9600 max

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2024, 05:51:00 pm
content: I got 3.0 to work at 9600. I didn't even find an option for anything over that in version 3.0. The option was there in some versions of 2.x, but I couldn't get it to work at all. I someone has figured how to use a higher baud rate in 3.0, I'd like to know about it.Jon

author: shockpoint
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2024, 06:06:34 am
content: Hi brains trustIntending to fix a semi broken 730A I acquiredI've looked everywhere for the schematics/circuit diagram for the THS7xx seriesWould anyone care to share? The old link to Kazus.ru is now dead, it's nowhere on the websiteThank you, much appreciated!

author: mk_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2024, 11:36:19 am
content: Quote from: shockpoint on August 21, 2024, 06:06:34 amhth

author: shockpoint
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2024, 03:58:48 pm
content: Many thanks for sharing!Quote from: mk_ on August 21, 2024, 11:36:19 am

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2024, 04:07:47 pm
content: Lots of info including schematics, service manuals, etc etc here:https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/THS720

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2024, 11:04:47 pm
content: Quote from: eliocor on March 28, 2023, 01:14:42 amA belated thanks for this. My scope was missing the cap, although it still had the metal disc for the bottom of the cap. My local library printed the cap for free. I glued the metal bottom on, got the o ring, and it works great.Jon

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2024, 01:18:02 am
content: Dear jal1234, I am using version 3.0.0.0 (sending image), but I have reported freezing issues when recording data while connected to Windows 10 via a USB-RJ45 cable. However, this lag problem has been 'resolved' by using Windows 7 in a Virtualbox. Regarding the license issue you reported, I have read that Tektronix has released the license for domestic use (keycode: WSTRO618650124). I used that keycode, and it hasn't given me any problems related to licenses. Finally, regarding the baud rate, I also haven't encountered any issues, as long as the baud rate settings on both the PC and the oscilloscope match.

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2024, 11:40:08 pm
content: Did you find a way to use anything other than 9600 baud in 3.0? Some earlier versions had a faster option, but no option that I could find in 3.0.Thanks,Jon

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2024, 05:43:20 am
content: Although the recommended setting is 9600 I have not reported any problems when changing the baudrate, (I am using a modified FTDI USB-RJ45 cable, I can pass you my pin if you want), I did a test with the THS7XX HardCopy program which should run at 34800 in its configuration and I have had no problems.Poniout color description:| FTDI Cable | Description | New Color Pattern ||------------|-------------|-------------------|| 1 Brown | CTS | Black || 2 Purple | DSR | Brown || 3 Yellow | RXD | Red || 4 Red | GND | Orange || 5 Black | GND | Yellow || 6 Orange | TXD | Green || 7 Blue | DTR | Blue || 8 Green | RTS | Purple |New order (tested):1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8Purple | Blue | Brown | Orange | Green | Red | Purple | BlackRTS DTR DSR GND TXD RXD RTS CTS

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2024, 12:24:20 pm
content: The Hard Copy program itselfworks at 34,800 baud, but the add-on analytic program doesn't work, so I'm left with the basic Hard Copy functions. So I went to the Tektronix program, which works at 9600. But while 2.x versions had speed options greater than 9600, the only option I see in 3.0 is 9600. The scope is capable, but the program appears not to be.

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2024, 01:48:12 pm
content: Hello,I have tried the THS7XX HardCopy program and it worked with my scope. Also the post process with SignalAnalyzer worked fine for me. What are your issues?RegardsMP

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2024, 11:31:56 pm
content: It tries to connect, fails, and errors out. This is after I've verified the basic Hard Copy program works ok. Are you using 9600 or 34800 baud?Jon

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2024, 06:19:42 am
content: Which tool can not connect? Can you connect with THS7XX HardCopy and the the the scope display via remote? Can you set the scope to factory defaults and only change in the scope to 34800. The tool works only with 34800 and default settings.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2024, 10:49:25 am
content: Have you set the port on the PC to the same baud rate?I'll have to experiment, but I seem to remember having to set that in Windows, maybe...

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2024, 01:03:53 pm
content: Quote from: jal1234 on September 02, 2024, 11:31:56 pmHard Copy connects fine at 34800, and displays the screen. It can also do the quasi real time updates on screen. When I try to use the add on, then it won't connect.Jon

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2024, 03:06:50 pm
content: Update. Not sure what I did different, but after erroring out once, now Signal Analyzer connects. When it eventually opens, now I get this screen, sorry it's at 90°. When I click OK, I get just a blank screen.Jon

author: walter.aranda
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2024, 07:12:11 pm
content: my friend, I just noticed that I have the same problem (virtualbox Win7 & FTDI cable) as you when trying to communicate with baud rates higher than 9600. I tested with 19200 and 38400, and indeed, as soon as I change this setting on the scope, the hardware communication stops, and I even need to disconnect the cable to restore communication. I saw in the programming manual, Table 1-2, that it is recommended to leave the default configuration (I'll send an image); however, I don't understand why the options to increase the baud rate exist if this is not possible. Could it be due to some limitation from not using a pure serial cable? Could someone show if this problem occurs with an RS232-RJ45 cable for a PC's serial port? In any case, I can communicate at 9600, so I'm not too concerned about the transfer speed at the moment. Finally, I've noticed that I'm unable to do data logging from the scope to the PC—can you? Could you show me how to do it? If you wish, you can contact me privately. Best regards!

author: mrprecision
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2024, 07:40:34 pm
content: It seems that connection do SignalAnalyzer works. The free version is limited to 512 samples, so you need a licence key to use it.

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2024, 09:56:02 pm
content: Quote from: walter.aranda on September 03, 2024, 07:12:11 pmWhat version of Wavestar are you using? There was no option to change the baud rate in 3.0 that there was in earlier versions. Maybe the fact that Wavestar can't seem to communicate at that speed caused then to delete that option.I haven't done much with Wavestar yet. I'll look and see what I can do when I get a chance.Oh, and I'm using a serial cable with my Panasonic CF-19. No USB in the mix.

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2024, 10:02:49 pm
content: Quote from: mrprecision on September 03, 2024, 07:40:34 pmOh, I see. The documentation to use SignalAnalyzer with the THS7xx is basically non-existant. I wish there was a trial period to try it before the limits kicked in. As it is, I'm hesitant to buy a license without making sure it actually works.I've managed to get a couple of screens by fluke, I guess, a couple of times. Non-repeatable, and nothing useful was on screen.

author: HAHSM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 14, 2024, 07:51:58 am
content: Hello all, new member, my finding this discussion motivated me to join eevblog!...I just recently picked up a THS720P as Parts/Not Working from ebay. Just the unit, no accessories or probes or anything. It seems to actually pretty much work so that's great, yes?!, have wanted one for a long time...It has the dc offset issue that others also have experienced, but not as great as some others have reported. Doing the cal often fixes that, we'll see if it fixes mine. I'm in the process of making a precision voltage reference and square wave generator so I can do the scope section cal myself.The battery of course is dead - an original Tek NiCad from 1996...and even after attempting to charge for 24 hours it only showed 0.05vdc, dead. I made a 12v power cord and it powers up and self check & the simple cal functions all pass. Display is good, I get signals on both channels. DMM works fine. Seems I got lucky with this one!I have parts on the way to make my own (2) NiMH battery packs from Amazon Basics 5000mah C's - I have a battery spot welder and nickel strips and PVC shrink wrap so should be easy to duplicate the OEM one...So I've started digging into this scope a bit and have noticed a curious thing I haven't seen posted elsewhere...But first, it's got 1.08 fw, would love to load 1.16 on it. I tend to think that 1.16 improves the cal function and is less prone to the dc offset issue. No way does my skill set include R&R'ing the necessary chip, but does include designing parts (in FreeCAD) and printing 3D parts. Seems like I could make the plug adapter that plugs into the main board similar to the factory setup, but don't know how to operate the programmer to actually upload the firmware. Last time I programmed IC's it was EEPROMS and EPROMS, remember those? I have read all the related posts in this thread so know the extents folks have gone to - to try to upload the firmware. Perhaps I could team up with others to make a standard cable setup for firmware updates, if folks are still interested, I sure am.OK - curious thing - the Service Manual says to remove the cal jumper to enable the calibration function, I did this (not the cal yet though) and sure enough saw the cal functions in the menus afterwards. Curious thing though is that it's not a 2 pin header that the jumper goes on but a 3 pin header with 2 possible jumper positions - two leftmost pins or the two rightmost pins. Originally the jumper was on the two leftmost pins for normal functionality. The Service Manual doesn't point out to make sure to put the jumper back on the two leftmost pins, nor does it say what happens if the jumper is placed on the two rightmost pins. So of course I had to try it. Bizarre! On powerup it immediately goes into some loop that appears to be strange screen diagnostics and I couldn't find a way to exit the loop - all keys and even the power button was ignored. So I pulled the 12v supply, thinking this would cause immediate power off since the battery is flat dead -NOT- the scope kept running the strange screen stuff with no power source - off of what power source? I wanted to put a quick end to this since it wasn't clear what was going on, and I want this scope to survive, so I popped the battery pack out - screen stuff still running - and immediate power off. Turns out putting the jumper in the rightmost position made the scope revive and start charging the battery again (in addition to whatever was going on with the screen, and who knows what else in the background. So the scope runs now off the 30 year old previously flat dead battery...and with the jumper back over the leftmost pins the scope operates normally again.Anyone else experience this? I haven't seen any other posts about the 3 pin header for the cal jumper, anyone else know about this and what the rightmost position is intended for? I didn't see anything in the Service Manual (haven't checked the schematics yet).Also I'm curious how others have made their own cal circuits to do a diy calibration (for those of us who don't have a nice bench full of signal generators and precision power supplies and scope calibrators and such.I do have several trusted Fluke DMM's and an older reasonably accurate 60mhz analog scope so I should be able to hack together some reasonably capable diy cal equipment.For the precision voltage references I'll be using a REF10EZ 10 volt precision reference, then simple resistor voltage dividers for the 3 needed +-voltages, adjusted via precision trimmer resistors.For the square wave generator I thought I'd try a simple rc oscillator into a 74HC14 hex inverter with Tr and Tf avg of 7ns - so well under the 20ns rise time spec'd in the Service Manual. I'll do my best to verify accuracy of these before using them to do the cal.I look forward to replies 😎

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2024, 11:36:43 pm
content: Check out the tekwiki page for info on these units, including the pod needed for firmware upgrades. If someone were to emulate that with a raspberry pi or other suitable device, it would make for much easier firmware upgrades.The motherboard looks simple to replicate from the schematics, but the Motorola M68332BCCDI 'DIBUG' debug module is unobtanium...I haven't been able to find an exact match for the plug though, itappearsto be a SCSI or similar type of thing.https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/THS720https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/067-1436-00According to the schematics on Page 10 (Grid Ref A1) the 3-pin cal header is also some sort of test function, probably used during manufacture. I wonder if it spits something out over the serial cable?For cal, I use some Advantest and Yokogawa AC and DC references, a bunch of Vishay precision resistors, and a HP 33120A Function Generator (Specified as <20ns, so juussstt good enough).If you make the squarewave gen, share the design (Maybe in a new thread), I'd be interested in making one too.

author: HAHSM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 18, 2024, 05:06:03 am
content: Quote from: TERRA Operative on October 14, 2024, 11:36:43 pmHey thanks for the reply - in the Pod manual is a replacable parts list with the Tek part number for the adapter cable (with plug) to connect to the THS - part 671-3682-XX, doing a search for that 😎 ya good luck, right! haha.I see that jumper in the schematics now - thanks for pointing to the location in the schematics, it seems to do some interesting things like (as you said) indicate some sort of diag mode, maybe the diag mode is the one in conjunction with the Pod?...If I get my hands on a THS mainboard, or just a cheap parts only THS, I'll see if there is an AMP number on the that plug. Seems like there would be...I'm waiting on some of the parts from Mouser for my diy cal circuits, if they work out & the square wave gen is nice and stable/no or low jitter then I'll (as you suggested) post a new thread with what I came up with - I'll also send you a msg with the new thread.I've built my two battery packs, they work great, charge overnight, just get very mildly warm so not overcharged.I made a RJ45 to DB9F serial cable and tested it as working with hardware flowcontrol.So this THS720P that I bought as "For Parts/Not Working" is fully functional, only issues now are doing a firmware update and the DC offset in both channels issue (that I'm hoping the diy cal will fix).More soon...

author: HAHSM
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 18, 2024, 05:19:43 am
content: Quote from: TERRA Operative on October 14, 2024, 11:36:43 pmWhen I do my cal procedure (& have the scope opened up again) I'll try the jumper in the right/Diag location again & monitor the serial port (now that I have a serial cable) and see if it does in fact start spitting stuff out...

author: kblue
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2024, 10:11:18 pm
content: Tried to get rid of the little but noticeable offset with a cal, but the step +7.000 VDC always fails, regardless what source i use and according to my bench-multimeters, which are connected during the cal, its 7.00012 +/- VDC and yes, the 50 Ohm feedthrough terminator is removed already. Bummer.Well guess i need to live with the offset. The scope is running older firmware 1.11./edit: Nevermind, it was my fault! I had my Banana-to-BNC connector reversed so +7 was -7 for the scope. <self-slap>/edit2: Kinda funny ... i did the cal with the original power supply connected. Back to batteries, there's some "tiniest of offset" back again and gone with power-supply connected (w/o batteries).

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 19, 2024, 04:55:41 pm
content: There are four optoisolators that tend to drift. They can be directly replaced with Broadcom/Avago part number HCNR201 (any of the -300E, -500E, -350E, or -550E variants will work) which are still readily available.I just bought 4 this week to keep on hand for my THS720P, just in case I need them.

author: kblue
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2024, 11:38:25 am
content: Hello again!So far the unit works perfectly fine. Just the old NiCd batteries are quite dead. Some people straight up replaced the old ones with NiMh in a tube, others say NiMh without modifications is a bad idea.My CCFL works fine too and is very bright, still I wonder if some sort of LED replacement would give me more runtime.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2024, 01:28:12 pm
content: Ni-MH is fine to use. I have rebuilt all my packs using 4000mAh GP brand C-cells and they work great.An LED conversion will increase runtime too, you save quite a bit of power by ditching the CCFL for LED's

author: kblue
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2024, 01:40:28 am
content: Hello again!Dunno if it's a "cap problem" or not, but if I turn my unit on, the display is kinda faded (still okay'ish to read) at start and after around 3 - 7 minutens it's nice and crips. Or is this normal?Best wishes!

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2024, 08:42:22 am
content: It shouldn't take that long, my scopes are much quicker to come to full brightness. Almost immediate.

author: sanchox
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 16, 2025, 03:19:45 pm
content: Hello everyone!I recently acquired a THS720STD for just 40 euros - completely barebones, with no extras or accessories.The battery pack, originally built from four C cells, was entirely dead (one cell at 0V and the others barely showing 0.1-0.9V).Although the unit beeped when an external power source was connected, it wouldn’t power on.After some investigation, I discovered that the 220µF electrolytic capacitor had deteriorated - its electrolyte had leaked, seeping through a via and damaging the PCB traces on the reverse side.I had to desolder several SMD components to clean the board underneath, repair the damaged traces, and dig deeply into pcb to restore a corroded via. Fortunately, after these repairs, the scope finally powered up.Now, I’m considering a few upgrades:I plan to create a smart battery pack using two 21700 lithium cells paired with a custom board.The idea is to integrate USB Type-C for charging, add protection circuits, provide battery-level indication, and include features like a long-term storage mode. There’s also an idea to utilize the device’s existing charging circuit for a Ni battery with Schottky diodes.The battery pack will need a proper enclosure, but I lack experience in CAD modeling and 3D printing. If anyone is willing to help with the design or printing, I’d really appreciate it.I’m exploring the possibility of replacing the current screen backlight with LEDs to conserve power.zyxel13solutionhttps://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/TEKTRONIX_THS710_THS720_THS730_LED_Backlight_drop_in_replacement_Controller_180430eb.htmllooks nice.I’m also toying with the idea of swapping out the display for an OLED, which would involve designing an adapter board - possibly based on an RP2040 or a similar microcontroller.Finally, I’m intrigued by the prospect of disassembling the firmware and developing a programming adapter, as mentioned byTERRA Operativein the thread.I’m excited to share my progress and ideas with you all and look forward to some great discussions and collaborative troubleshooting.Cheers!

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2025, 03:50:24 pm
content: I can help with the 3D modelling, and I am interested in the prospect of a replacement display, as it is increasingly common for them to end up with burnt polarizers and replacement LCD's are stupid expensive...I made a design for the LED backlight too. I'll have to revisit the design to polish it up a little and make it more manufacturable..

author: jal1234
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2025, 03:50:50 pm
content: Here is a link to a 3D print file on Thingiverse for a Lithium battery holder for the THS7xxx series. You may be able to adapt it to your needs.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3704531Keep us informed of your progress.Jon

author: vishaldotgupta
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2025, 09:10:07 am
content: I have model 710which i tried changing to 720p after changing few resistance.The display is faulty and i cannot confirm if this got updated.I have decided not to take it further.If anyone wants to buy board and or any other parts, please let me know

author: vishaldotgupta
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2025, 09:13:05 am
content: I also have a custom built lcd having led backlight. Some modifications will be required to use itIts new . I believe the original from sharp is very costly and difficult to get in good condition

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2025, 11:55:33 am
content: The 710 can only be updated to 720 as it is missing parts on the circuit board. Only the 720A can be updated to 720P.

author: kblue
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2025, 11:06:55 pm
content: Are for all the "fancy power measurements" (THS720P) all the "special probes" needed or do other probes work too?

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2025, 12:13:53 am
content: If you take a look at the user manual, it shows measurement examples in section 2 starting from 2-35 (page 59)https://w140.com/tekwiki/images/f/f2/070-9731-05.pdfYou should use the proper isolated probes for measuring mains voltages to provide the required level of safety, and for measurements involving current you will need a current probe.

author: kblue
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2025, 01:30:26 am
content: As the old current probes are rather hard to find, do modern current probes work?

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2025, 05:07:43 am
content: I assume they would, you'll just have to see if the specifications somewhat kind of match.

author: goaty
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2025, 12:41:54 pm
content: Quote from: kblue on April 03, 2025, 11:06:55 pmI built a simple makeshift adapter from an old remote controlled power outlet adapter.Just used a 0,1Ohm Shunt for Current and 1:10 Divider for Voltage.A bit fiddly setting up the scope, but it shows power factor and all the stuff just fine (but not very exact).

author: Rocky
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 15, 2025, 03:19:20 pm
content: I have a Tektronix THS720 oscilloscope that originally uses a 4.8V Ni-MH battery pack. I replaced it with two Li-ion cells in series (8.4V when fully charged), and while the oscilloscope powers on and works fine, I noticed an issue with the standby mode.When I press the ON/STBY button, the oscilloscope enters standby, but even in this mode, it's drawing about 460mA from the Li-ion battery (8.4V). This is clearly too high. I tested this by supplying power directly via a lab power supply to the battery terminals.Interestingly, if I reduce the supply voltage below approximately 6.8V, the standby current drops to nearly zero. But above ~7V, the current draw comes back, even in standby.Is there a way to prevent this standby current draw while still using two Li-ion batteries (8.4V)? Has anyone modified the power switching or STBY circuitry to fix this?

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2025, 05:23:02 pm
content: Can you install a buck converter into your battery pack?I suspect the higher voltage isn't allowing the scope to properly turn off.Schematics are available on the Tekwiki, you might find a way to modify it, but my preference would be to modify the battery pack instead.

author: Rocky
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 16, 2025, 03:36:12 am
content: I could add a buck converter, but since it has conversion efficiency and also consumes quiescent current, I’d prefer to try modifying the THS720 circuit itself. Could anyone suggest how the circuit might be modified? I've been studying the schematic, but I haven't been able to identify which part is causing the issue.

author: Rocky
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 16, 2025, 03:42:56 am
content: I’m using a 26650-size lithium-ion battery with a capacity of 5000mAh.

author: little_grey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2025, 08:32:21 pm
content: hello all/been arround and using my ths710 for many years, but it lost a channel and i have since replaced it with a 730 model.as such, is anyone wanting a 710 to attempt a repair of channel 2? its not the optocoupler as that got replaced.otherwise its in good condition with a screen in good shape. if not i'll keep it for sparesalso, those using the nmhi cells, can you not use the stock charger?the 730 has been altered to have C type rechargable cells in it, but i noticed it get reasonably warm when plugged in. (i haddnt realised it had this mod)

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2025, 11:35:05 pm
content: I use Ni-Mh cells with no problems. They are higher capacity than the old Ni-Cd cells so the charge rate is fine.

author: goaty
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2025, 05:11:52 am
content: Have you checked the relays? They failed on mine for the attenuation.

author: little_grey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2025, 10:58:29 am
content: Hey @goatlyNot checked them formally. I can hear some relaying trigger but not checked specific channels. Would figure as you still see a signal change when plugging in a probe but nothing changes when hooking into the. Calibration square wave