Jelly bean parts everyone should have on hand? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Supper_slash
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 05:34:04 am
content: The only MCU I have experience with is TI's MSP430's, and I am ready to spread my wings.So here is where you come in.What jellybean parts should I have on hand? Everything I will be using will be through hole, and I have just got in a PICKIT3 programmer, and a handful of ARDUINO UNO's.So, I want to make an order out that should have all the basics covered, but there are so many parts to choose from, I need help to know what you all Keep on hand no matter what.What you reach for most often when you start off a project.What type of pic chips are good general purpose chips to develop with? I can order specific chips after I have got a project prototyped. (size is no problem, 40 pin's are welcome)I am just looking for something that will work with a pickit3 and is well balanced in features. I am happy to order several different types. What do you reach for when you start a project?I have grabbed a hand full of diodes and NPN's/PNP's, so I should have that covered, but what about any specific transistors, or diodes?I have no idea as to what opamps to get, but I do know I will be using them, and everything will be <35V's. One of my first projects will be a power supply to power car amps to test.I am thinking of getting some "Protoboard" Instead of normal strip board, and some sockets for the chips.Any advice on resistor assortments?Any advice on cap's assortments?Do you think I will need any inductors?Any and everything that I am forgetting.( I have a start on equipment, I am mainly focusing on jellybean PARTS.)I know I will be missing a lot of stuff, but I am trying to get a mini lab off of the ground.I know this is a total NOOB request, and it only comes from experience, but we all need to start somewhere, I am just looking for advice as to what my first order should be. I will keep adding as I find i like and or need more parts in the future, but I know I will be using PIC's, and anything I can use with my Arduino's, for starters.

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 05:38:42 am
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/from-no-parts-to-decent-stockpile-best-approach/

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 05:52:28 am
content: Since you are in the U.S., these guys are good. In the U.S., they deliver pretty quickly, reasonable postage, and you can buy in small quantities and they are cheap. These are products I bought from them and use all the time. You don't have to buy a huge quantity to start:http://www.taydaelectronics.com/http://www.taydaelectronics.com/prototyping-board-142x74mm.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/sockets/dip-sockets.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/ceramic-disc-capacitors.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/electrolytic-capacitors.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/resistors/1-4w-carbon-film-resistors.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/lcd-displays/lcd-display-16-x-2-blue-character-with-backlight.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/cermet-potentiometers/3362p.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/tact-switch/tact-switch-6x6mm-5mm-through-hole-spst-no.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/dip-switch/dip-switch-4-positions-gold-plated-contacts-top-actuated.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/push-button/push-button-switch-latching-on-off-dpdt-0-5a-50vdc-8x8mm.htmlI'm only listing stuff that I use on every single project, more or less. Obviously, you will generally have a PIC or a DAC or an ADC or some other more high-end part on every project. But what you are interested in in particular is something you know better than I do. I also like to keep some 4 digit 7-segment LEDs available, but Tayda seems to be mostly out of these right now. Ebay is a good source.Sometimes a full resistor and capacitor kit is better, though, and eBay has a lot of overseas sellers that do that:http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000pcs-50-Values-50V-Ceramic-Capacitor-Assorted-kit-Assortment-Set-Hot-Sale-/151128848522http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-pcs-Assorted-1-4W-0-25W-5-Through-Hole-Carbon-Film-Resistor-Kit-0-10Mohm-/111275963196I wasn't going to put any active devices on the list, but it occurs to me that you always need a few on hand. No need to go nuts and buy hundreds of these, just a few:http://www.taydaelectronics.com/2n3904-npn-general-propose-transistor.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/2n3906-general-propose-pnp-transistor.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/2n7000-mosfet-n-channel-60v-0-2a.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/diodes/standard/1n4007-1a-1000v-rectifier-diode.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/diodes/standard/1n914-small-signal-diode-200ma-100v.htmlTayda doesn't seem to have a good option for a small signal p-channel mosfet in through-hole. Sooner or later you will want one of these to high-side drive LEDs matrices or other applications.

author: Landrew2390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 07:57:17 am
content: Headers. They're cheap and I tend to use them when I need a device that doesn't play nice with a breadboard or PCB. I also use them when I need to enclose something and want to be able to disconnect it from its environment. They're really handle as ICSP headers as well.I don't use PIC microcontrollers, but I can tell you what I stock in the AVR line. I try to keep some 8 pin units around for smaller stuff, some 14-20 pin units when I need to do some heavier lifting and I tend to keep parts like the ATmega 328 around for larger projects. For bench work, I always try to get the largest memory available within my standardize families. With the low costs of chips today, it doesn't really make sense to restrict yourself by purchasing smaller memory sizes for prototyping. Once you move into production (Assuming the project isn't a one-off design), you can tailor your bill of materials to use a cheap chip where practical.

author: JoeN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 09:19:17 am
content: Ditto on headers. Add these to the list. Cut to length.http://www.taydaelectronics.com/40-pin-2-54-mm-single-row-female-pin-header.htmlhttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/40-pin-2-54-mm-single-row-pin-header-strip.html

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 09:56:59 am
content: I've used a few PICs (pic16f877 and pic18f2550). I think a good start to learn would be a PIC16F887, PIC16(L)F1788 and/or PIC18F2550. These are all 8 bit processors and will show you the basics for most projects. FYI. The PIC18F2550 is used in the PICkit2.I start by testing my projects on an old breadboard with jumper wires. Something like these:Large Solderless BreadboardMale/Male Jumper WiresFemale/Male 'Extension' Jumper Wires

author: TheUnnamedNewbie
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 10:16:56 am
content: Perhaps throw in a few comparators and unity buffers? Some power modules (like for instance the ones Dave just showed on the mailbag) might be interesting if you don't have a collection of lab power supplies yet.A few parts I like are the VNP20n07 from ST (Don't know who else makes them, the ones I have are ST). While not great for super-high current applications, they have a lot of protection circuitry in them that prevents you from blowing them up when you make mistakes. (I have yet to kill one by accident - I've had them push shorts, try powering 20A DC motors without any flyback protection, ...).Also, I tend to order LED's in various colors by the 100-s. And I stock up on the standard current-limiting resistors for leds, so thats usually 150 ohms and 470ohms and so on.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 11:02:55 am
content: It really depends on what type of eletronics you work with. The really basic parts aresome resistors - usually no need for really many valuesa few diode (e.g. 1N4148, 1N4007 or UF4007)a few LEDssome small transistors like 2N3904/6 and maybe a few larger ones (e.g. BD237, 2N3055)a few pasic OPs like LM358, TL072, TLC272, MCP6002 - but preferences are differentsome capacitors, especially 100 nF for decoupling and something like 100 µFa few voltage regulators (e.g. 7805)Usually the other parts pile up as left -overs from projects: spare transistors / chips and packing units of small parts.

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 07:54:36 pm
content: I posted in another similar thread after restarting myself.Microchip has some pic demo boards that seemed like a good star to my, MCM electronics has the smaller three pack on clearance right now.Digikey/mouser/ others sell resistor and capactor assortment packs which helps get started as you have a few of each then get a bunch of the often used like the .1uF.Then decide what your going to do, robotics you'll want motors and drivers for example, other things you may want different other parts.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 09:40:15 pm
content: QuoteLeftovers. I have several hundreds/thousands of a few different PICs as evidence of some previous inventory mismanagement, design changes, and in some cases outright design failures.If you want a few jellybean PICs, I would suggest you keep some 8 pin PICs on hand, which can practically replace 555 timer chips and logic ICs and have endless uses as hardware/interface glue for bodging things together.For a proper ucontroller project, you DO NOT not to keep parts on hand, if you live in a first world country. By the time you have any semblance of a circuit/pcb/bread-board-thingy, or have even gotten partway through the code/configuration/datasheet, you could have your chip of choice delivered to your door. In fact, your hardest job may be to not misplace the package in the interim, until you are actually ready to install the part, lol. For PIC micros, you can have samples delivered for free, if you can wait an extra day or three over ordering from a major distributor. One day you will have a pile of leftovers. No need to do that, intentionally.One tip, I think 18F PICs are mostly stupid. If you are using C, compare to 24F devices. For assembly, look at 16F; I especially like the enhanced midrange 1.8V parts. 18F seem to be a half-baked compromise.QuoteAside from resistors and decoupling caps, the main things I keep on hand areThru hole and SMD LEDsPiezo speakers (enclosed, with SMD connections)some opampssome comparatorsSOT23 NPN signal transistors (w/e is cheapest, has reasonable speed and can sustain 200+mA)SOT23 PNP signal transistors "SOT23 Common Anode Shottky " (I find it convenient to use dual diodes because of the SOT23 form factor)SOT23 Common Cathode Shottky " (and obvious polarity, even if using only one of them)SOT23 signal NFET "SOT23 signal PFET "Some Zener diodes of various voltagesSome power FETs.Some power rectifiersSome DC boost ICs and associated inductors/caps/resistors/parts.Some li ion charging ICs and USB connectors and 3V detectors for discharge protectionPin headerssome linear regulatorsSome 8 pin microsSome tac switchesa few slide switchesa few hitachi alphanumeric LCD displaysEverything else mostly gets ordered as I need them. I don't get to anxious if I run low/out of anything. I know what they do and can still have plenty of details to keep me busy while waiting for new parts to arrive.

author: Supper_slash
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 11:04:18 pm
content: This has all been great information, I am making out an order now. Most everything mentioned is included.Is there a way to tell if a pic is kit3 programable?Thank you so much. This should get me up and run. I think I will look into how much it will cost to get into other Microcontrollers also. The only ones I know much about is Pic and Ti.I don't know how much it will cost to get a programmer for AVR line as noted by "Landrew2390".That might be an avenue to look at anyways.

author: Landrew2390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 11:36:48 pm
content: I don't currently use a dedicated AVR programmer. I use an Arduino as my programmer right now. It's not the greatest for large volume work, but it gets the job done reasonably well for my projects. Unless you're planning on programming runs of +10 boards at a time, I'd wait until you get settled in and comfortable with PIC or AVR before I would spend a ton of money on programmers.

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 11:45:41 pm
content: I have to say that unless there's a reason to go 8 bit (ie, a super trivial or cost sensitive high volume device) I'd agree that PIC24F is roughly where I start as a baseline these days.The main downside for a beginner with the PIC24F though is that the documentation is likely to be quite intimidating, it's typically spread across about twenty documents, compared to the single document with 200 odd pages in a baseline PIC16.I've grown to love the Microstick in the past year or so, particularly the 5V PIC24F version that'll work right off a li-ion cell if necessary. The device they use on it is the PIC24FV16KM202, which has a pretty darned good set of peripherals, including dual 8 bit DACs as well as more common on board op amps, PWM, comparators multi channel ADC etc.However, you can write a blinky from scratch fairly quickly with it. I often think a video tutorial series on these devices would be great, maybe I should do some!Using my standard wire ended breadboard kit when travelling as a benchmark, I'd suggest these...O resistors, say 10 off of each (220, 470, 1k, 2.2k, 4.7k, 10k, 100k)O a few assorted wire ended trimmer pots, eg 1 each 1k, 10k, 100kO ceramic caps, 10 off of each 1nF, 10nF, 100nF, 1uFO Electrolytic caps, 5 off each 10uF, 100uFO TO92 LDOs 3 off each 3.3V, 5.0VO Transistors 5 off each 2N3904, 2N3906O LEDs 10 offO push buttons 5 offO crystals 1 each, 4MHz, 6MHz, 8 MHz, 10MHz, 12MHz, 16MHz, 20MHz.O PICs, DIP versions of about 20 different devices from PIC10F to PIC32MX270 (I'd pick one or two to start with!)O A couple of low speed low voltage rail to rail op ampsO Breakout for USB (to power your board even if you don't use it for data)O I2C LCDO USB to serial TTL converterO more breadboard wire of appropriate colours than you think you'll ever needO male-male pin headers

author: Supper_slash
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 24, 2015, 12:46:19 am
content: Very nice.

author: eugenenine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2015, 01:21:37 am
content: Did you get the pickit with the 44pin demo board? I got that one so I could have one just to mess with. Then I bought a couple DIP versions of the 18f25k20 which is a fewer pin version of the 18f45k20 on the demo board so I could bread board some circuits.Some assortments likehttp://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RS225/RS225-ND/7110would be plenty to start (they used to have nice little plastic boxes but I couldn't find them anymore).I almost forgot. I bought 10 or so 5v and 3.3v each linear regulators so when I make a pic circuit I can power if off of whatever.