Which breadboard? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2010, 09:12:54 pm
content: After getting back into electronics after many many years, I'm going to start with a nice new breadboard. What I would like please is some pointers for the best type for me. For instance would It be ok to start with something like thishttp://uk.farnell.com/wisher/wb-106-j/bread-board-wb-106-j/dp/1472854?I Also need to buy a load of components to practise with like.. LED's, resistors, diods, capacitors etc etc. Can i just buy I big pack of stuff? I remember I could do that years ago.I've almost forgotton most of the things I learned way back but am hoping it will come back to me once I get going. I remember I used to build my own little pre-made projects in the past and actually remember one of them being a sort of graphic equlizer type thing, which I used for ages and it worked well for years. I even used to draw up & etch my own PCB's etc, so I'm not a total noob, just need some views and opinions please.Thanks guys

author: logictom
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 07, 2010, 01:10:29 am
content: I think any breadboard will do the trick, most are the same from what I know just a matter of preference. I just picked up another a few weeks ago from maplin as I have misplaced my other.http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2002I chose the AD-11 as it has the banana plugs for your power connections - I'm always pulling the power cable out and wondering why nothing is workingMaplin and others do resistor/capacitor kits and 'lucky bags'http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=38096with a mixture of components.My 2 cents, hope helps

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 07, 2010, 01:22:54 am
content: They are all basically the same, and the Wisher ones are pretty much the pick of the bunch in terms of quality.The pre-shaped wires are excellent, I have a whole box of them.Dave.

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2010, 11:34:15 am
content: OK Great, thanks guys.

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 07, 2010, 12:35:40 pm
content: When I got back into electronics about 12 months ago, I picked up some breadboard stuff fromFuturlec.com.au(orfuturlec.com).Very cheap and pretty good service.

author: logictom
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 07, 2010, 05:48:12 pm
content: Just had another look at that one on farnell after the mention of wires, didn't see the pack-o-goodies with it, might have to pick up one with my next order. Stripping wires for breadboarding is a PITA plus you can never have too many breadboards

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 07, 2010, 06:15:26 pm
content: are you in the UK ? maplin do some nice breadboard wires but they cost, beware of the ones all over ebay they are horrible

author: Zad
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2010, 06:28:00 pm
content: Yep, I have the Maplin AD-13 with 5 banana terminals. Pretty sturdy and just about big enough (although I sometimes with I had got the bigger one). Usually I just get around to thinking breadboards are old technology and no longer much use, then I find a new use for it.If you don't have much in the way of components then the GCSE kit may actually be better value for money than the "lucky bags" which can contain all sorts of components that you will never use. It seems expensive but it comes with a very handy component box, and has a good spread of components that you will use:http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=13487

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 07, 2010, 06:34:02 pm
content: looks like a decent kit, also look at bitsbox.co.uk they are very well priced better than maplins maybe, if your sticking around electronics long term I'd get one of their capacitor kits and one of their resistor kits, the maplin lucky dip packs are a con I think. ebay can be good in some cases but be careful

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2010, 09:34:12 pm
content: Great advice fellas, thanksI've stuck all the suggestions into my favorites ready for future purchases. I'm actually going to Maplins tomorrow so I think I'll get the parts below. I was going to get a few bit from Farnells or Mouser but I can't for the life of me find any sort of various component packs to get me started and the minimum order for Farnells is £20 so I can't just order the breadboard I wanted from themAD14 Breadboard(FS65V) Jump wire kitAnd a few component packsMay even buy myself a new soldering iron too as the Weller 100W one I have is far too powerful for the more delicate stuff. What do you guys recommend for general light electronics.. 15W - 25W?RegardsOrb

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 07, 2010, 10:01:28 pm
content: The Hakko 936 is pretty much an industry standard iron. Can't be beat for the price.Beware the fake ebay tips.Dave.

author: orbiter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2010, 10:16:05 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on April 07, 2010, 10:01:28 pmI think one like that will be a while off yet Dave, I don't really want to be spending that sort of money on an iron untill I get I get my teeth into the actual board building side of things again. But I will certainly keep it in mind.Regardsorb

author: xani
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2010, 10:41:17 pm
content: Imo just dont get something under 30W, unless ure doin SMD-only work. Also anything above 50W without thermal regulation is too much.U might want to try to build ur own soldering station, its fun little project. These soldering irons just have buildin thermocouple, all u need is some kind of voltage reference, low Vos opamp ( i used OP-07) and few other common parts (mine uses opamp as comparator + triac/optotriac (with zero detect) for driving iron))

author: Zad
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2010, 02:19:49 am
content: I have used many different soldering irons over the years (including super expensive ones) but the one I use most is a 15W unregulated Antex (closely followed by a 25W Antex). They must be well over 20 years old now! Personally, I find anything of 30W upwards is a bit clunky for general purpose fine work. So long as it has enough power, the most important part is that it feels well weighted and easy to use. Don't forget a soldering iron stand too, it saves a lot of burned clothes/carpets/desks.Something likehttp://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=4061orhttp://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=4069Like much of electronics, you go with what works and feels best for you.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 08, 2010, 07:00:52 am
content: I have an antex 12 W iron and to be honest for electronics it is all you need, I've done everything with it but large wires I don't think a powerful iron is needed maybe 15W if your uncertain. irons with the element inside the tip are more efficient that irons with the tip inside the element so bear that in mind when comparing

author: TheDirty
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2010, 08:17:05 pm
content: I've been really liking these long single boards from futurlec. They are big enough for a decent sized project (I realize decent sized for me might not be the same as decent sized for you) and you can still move them around fairly easily.Watch out with the power strips, though. The left half and right half are separate, so it not one long power strip along the one side of the board.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 09, 2010, 08:28:26 pm
content: thats an interesting way to use a breadboard

author: TheDirty
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2010, 09:09:21 pm
content: For every sensor or peripheral I'm testing I make module that I can breadboard first. So I have dozens of these little modules that will plug into a breadboard with micorcontrollers, sensors, and peripherals on them. The picture is a test platform for a logger I'm making for canoeing. The only thing I'm not actually using on the board is the wireless module.