hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Yihua 853D 3in1 Hot Air DC Power Rework Station review and advices needed. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: laserbeam1k
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 28, 2016, 10:52:25 pm
content: First of all let me say it was $70 shipped to my house .This is my first ever unit and I am not in the field or profession of an EE with no experience what so Ever.I didn't feel I needed a HAKKO and Regret it now. Please spare my naïve soul of any should of... advice or why I shouldn't have gotten this.Ill tell you all why you may not get this.The Hot Air works don't know if its accurate but turns on.So does the DC SupplyThe Solder Iron is where I have the problem.The tip seating onto the heating element is Loose. Id say about a 1mm+ gap Thus leading to inconsistent heating.I'm using some cheap solder from a $10 wall outlet kit. It will only start to wet when at the end closer to the heating element. The tip doesn't seem to get hot enough to wet the sodder. And if you melt the sodder from the top and if it rolls down to the tip its too cold to adhere to anything. I don't know if its the sodder or the iron or a combination of both but it does not stick to anything. Iv also tried some cheap ebay flux. or thermal sodder greasepasteDoes anyone know if there is a better aftermarket iron that can be used with this unit to remedy my situation?I really like the style of the FM-2027. Just by looking at it... it looks like it will work as the entire rod is heated instead of a transfer of heat from one metal to another.Maybe ill just man up and purchase a Hakko FX-951 but id really like to use this or salvage it if possible.Thanks for any advice.

author: JGAN
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2016, 06:15:32 am
content: I have heard people have better luck using genuine Hakko tips and heating elements in the iron, but overall I would say you are wasting your time and money for minor improvements. You can't fix what was never designed to work.Save up for a 888 or 951. Or scour ebay for an used 936 or FM-202, they pop up for $50-$100 regularly.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2016, 05:17:31 pm
content: In the short term, you'd be wise to get a genuine Hakko element & use genuine Hakko tips.Then save up for a FX-951 (one heck of a bargain here in the US). Once you give this one a go, you'll wonder why you ever wasted your time & money on your current setup.Seriously though, your iron is the one tool you shouldn't buy cheap given how much you'll use it. Desoldering stations, preheaters, and hot air stations OTOH aren't used all the time, and the less expensive Asian products make more sense.This ^ is assuming it will take you awhile to save up the funds for a FX-951. If not however, just get the FX-951 and don't waste another cent on the Yihua 853D (you can still use the hot air section).
Monoprice Mini Select 3D printer. My first review video - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2016, 04:04:17 am
content: Here is my very first review video. Let me know what you think. It's the Monoprice $199 3D printer. I made a mistake where I say hex head screw. I meant flat head hex screw. May the hardware gods forgive me. Also where I say source files I should have said model files. Oh well. First time. The downward bench view is what I am thinking about using for other videos. There is a big glare in the middle which I am trying to get rid of. I may need to change my lighting.https://youtu.be/2E75UFYBtvM

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2016, 05:55:35 am
content: here is the specification... fwiw...http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=15365&seq=1&format=2

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2016, 08:56:02 pm
content: Uh oh. I get the feeling nobody liked it.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2016, 04:01:02 am
content: its nice but the problem is 120mm cube is too limiting. 60degC bed max temp also make it less ideal for ABS printing. as mechanically inclined i am, i still find my 3d printer rated similar to the "Maker Select" 200mm dimension is still limiting my creativity, the problem is once it break that print dimension, the price go boom several magnitude higher. $199 price is fair though for the 120mm cube Monoprice, for really tight budget purpose. the FW GUI is nice but very little functionality from your review, the Marlin OSHW GUI, albeit 20x4 textual only interface, provides much more functionalities such as preheat bed, nozzle or both, for both PLA and ABS setting, auto zero home, release stepper etc. i've modded the menu for my own purpose. fwiw..

author: TheSteve
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 21, 2016, 05:43:06 am
content: Haven't watched your video yet but I have had one of these printers for a few months now. If you haven't updated the firmware do so right away - the wifi support is great and it even has a little web interface to upload files and start/monitor prints. No need to even touch a button on the printer itself.
Sony Digicube VFD Clock. Still going strong after many years. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: steve30
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 08:34:35 pm
content: I've had a Sony Digicube (model ICF-C11L) in my possession for the last 20 years or so. Before that, my Dad had it. I'm not entirely sure of its age, as I can't find any date codes, but a Google search suggests it could be from around 1980 ish.I'm not sure what sort of use it had before I got it, but it has been in use for the vast majority of the last 20 years.The radio tuning knob and volume knob are quite crackly, but these don't get used very often. What I find impressive is the VFD. I'm amazed that it is still so good after all these years of use. I had the clock set to Maximum brightness for many years, but due to my poor eyesight, a few years ago I removed the blue filter which was in front of the VFD. This brightened it up considerably and I now have the brightness on Minimum, and its still very bright. Now, instead of blue digits, I get nice clear turquoise digits.The 'Auto-Dimmer' on the front seems to be an LDR, and works fine. I've no idea where the Wakey Wakey sticker came from. The knob from the FM/MW/LW switch broke, but the switch is fine.I've attached some photos of it. I don't have any teardown photos yet, but I'll try and get some sometime.

author: Bicurico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 08:49:00 pm
content: This is from the mid/late 80ies.Back then I dreamed of having one: it was the best bedroom radio clock you could buy back then!- Digital numbers- Radio- Timer to fall asleep listining to radio- Alarm: beep or radioAnd from a time, where the brand SONY meant:- premium quality- innovation- miniaturisation- design- unfortunatly: high priceRegards,Vitor

author: LaurentR
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 09:59:11 pm
content: I remember moving from Europe to the US with a slightly different version of the Sony cube in the 90s and realizing the time was going 20% faster on the US 60Hz gridThat made it a lot less useful.
Foot Circulation Boosters  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jonovid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2016, 08:57:03 am
content: is this Product a medical device. or just a fitness equipment fad or just a toy?seenanybody have one for a teardown?

author: Cyberdragon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2016, 04:58:10 pm
content: It's just a fancy shmancy foot massager. It just has massaging zones so I bet it has a bunch of small vibrator motors and heating coils controlled by a small CPU.It's probably a pretty good foot massager too, but they could have just called it that (like "Worlds Best Foot Massager" or something) instead of surrounding it with wank.Unless...they mentioned something about "electrode pads" so if those are conductive and it actually shocks your feet...HELL NOWorlds Worst Foot Massager!

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 12, 2016, 07:09:29 am
content: It looks like a rip-off of the Revitive Medic, which is an actual medical device which delivers electrical stimulation to improve circulation - very similar to a device we re-developed for use in hospitals.
Hakko FX-951 Issue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: raptor1956
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2016, 06:21:03 am
content: I've had the 951 for a while now and I really like how it works, but one thing kind of bugs me about it. The base unit connects to the soldering iron holder via a 1/8 inch phono type cable and I find it to be more of a hassle than either the main power cord or the iron cable itself. I like the sleep functionality but wish they used a similar concept as used in the various 858D hot air stations -- a magnet and reed switch. So, if the iron holder had a magnet and the iron handle had a reed switch then you could do away with the 1/8 inch phono cable altogether and that would make me really love the Hakko.Another option would be the use of a hall effect sensor in the iron handle in place of the reed switch, but given the cost difference and the relatively low number of actuation's there should be little worry about a reed switch failure with use.I have my 951 on a shelf just above my work bench/table and I leave the base unit there only moving the iron holder as needed. So, without the phono cable I'd have almost no hassling with wires/cables when moving the iron holder in and out of the rack and around my work table.Brian

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2016, 04:08:01 pm
content: Unfortunately, if you want to keep the sleep functionality, you'll have to live with it (it's a quite reliable method, and inexpensive to implement as well).Mine also uses a switch design; the stand connects to the base and the iron to the stand (pass-through). Means only a single cable from the base so fewer difficulties with placement IME.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 06, 2016, 04:14:11 pm
content: Have you tried to wire tie them together? I have been thinking of trying it with my 951.
Sho-Me Emergency lighting LED flasher de-potting teardown. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: XOIIO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 01:35:15 am
content: So, the replacement for the flasher which died on me came in so I tore this one down to see if it did have input protection, and find why it died, and also see if there's a chance of repairing it, which there is. I'll have to get the parts some time in the future but it's not a priority right now.Also it's just controlled with a pic 12, so you could probably reprogram it to any flash patterns you wanted.https://youtu.be/6DDK9ni5NGEIt's just been uploaded so will take a bit for it to be available in 1080p

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 02:52:41 am
content: Product page:http://www.able2products.com/update/11_1005tsf_v1.htm
Modifying a Shure UC wireless microphone with external power input. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: XOIIO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 12:52:18 am
content: Had my Shure UC wireless mic battery die when tearing down that ebay action cam, so I modified one of them, turning the mute input socket into an external power in, so I can have it on as long as needed.
$60 Ebay "SJcam" teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: XOIIO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2016, 12:50:48 am
content: Teardown of a $60 ebay "sjcam" action camera, this one was defective and I need to mail it back for a replacement, but figured I'd do a teardown video with my new setup.
Is there a low-end smart watch with a SDK? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ivoras
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2016, 06:40:26 pm
content: Does anyone here know about any kind of a low-end smart watch (something like this one:http://www.banggood.com/Original-Xiaomi-Miband-2-Heart-Rate-Monitor-Bluetooth-Smart-Bracelet-p-1057324.html) with BLE, which has an official SDK or reverse-engineered firmware with source which would enable creating custom apps *for the watch itself.*So, I'm not directly interested in SDKs for Android/iOS/etc apps, but specifically for writing apps directly for the watch itself.Pebble is one obvious choice, except it's way too expensive for my purpose. I'm thinking there must be some kind of a cheap Chinese smartwatch which allows my code to run on it?

author: awallin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2016, 07:41:28 am
content: http://www.ohwr.org/projects/f-watch/wiki

author: hendorog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2016, 07:52:16 am
content: Quote from: awallin on August 31, 2016, 07:41:28 amYe gods thats one hideous watch.

author: dferyance
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2016, 01:37:48 pm
content: What is the reason you want it? Is this just something fun to play around with or do you have another goal in mind.A few years back I made my own by dead-bug soldering a bluegiga ble113 to a sharp memory LCD and coin-cell battery. Used Apoxie Sculpt to create the case (I don't have one of those new-fangled 3d printers).There is TI's chronos. It isn't BLE but does have wireless.There is also MetaWatch:https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/12005.Not BLE but has bluetooth.
Ir Preheater and hot air. - Yihua 853 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mrpackethead
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2016, 08:29:04 pm
content: I spent a few hundred dollars and bought one of these, thinking that it might be a fizzer. Well its turned out to be pretty good.. The ir preheat works well, and after measuring my pcb with a thermal camera, it was sitting within a few degress of the set point in about 60seconds.. I had an old board that had some small BGAS on it and and other bits and peices. after applying hot air, the parts were easily lifted off, no damage to tracks.. in fact it does'tn take much air to get the solder to molten..Its down side is that it is small. Its only going to be good for smallish pcbs ( maybe 150x150 max you might be able to do bigger with a bit of moving parts around..the soldering iron that comes with it is rubbish, its did not get plugged in, and its unlikely it ever willl.what would have been nice ( and maybe a mod to it ) would be a programmable system so it could do a nice ramp up and turn things on / off. And need a vacumn tool..Anyway, value for money is high, this vendor delivered quickly.. Its certainly not a high end machine, but would be a good addition for any hobby work bench, and in fact probably even a professinal work bench wher eyou need to replace the odd chip.. Clearly there are better machiens.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/YIHUA-853AAA-BGA-rework-station-hot-air-gun-soldering-iron-soldering-station/32327374829.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.57.799nLq

author: hasithvm
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2016, 05:32:20 am
content: I recently picked up a very similar looking machine from CircuitSpecialists:https://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi853bplus.html.Same manufacturer possibly?It doesn't have a soldering iron attached to it (I have a Hakko FX-888D for point soldering), which influenced my purchase.Ramps up to operating temperature very fast, nice constant airflow but it doesn't show the current temp (only the set point, I might have missed something in the manual.) Has a magnetic switch that auto-powers off the hot air system when you nest it in the cradle on the side.Only con is the lack of current temperature display so far.
What is it and should i keep it? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TohKah
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 03:33:48 pm
content: Alright, cleaning out storage rooms at work and came across ALOT of old 1960's heathkit stuff. This guy was in there too but I cant find beans about the company or what its really used for...Is it worth having around? What would you use it for today?It did have a very vintage (somehow not exploded/leaky) D cell 1.5V battery in it. Not alot inside besides switches and the SLOPE is connected to a 10 turn pot, there is a gear motor attached to the reset knob with another 10 turn pot on top of that.There are no other stickers or makings on it. Standard 110Vac plug out the back.

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 03:49:42 pm
content: HiThat is a very old box normally used in a control loop. I'd forget about trying to use it and just scrap out the useful parts in it.Bob

author: TohKah
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 04:09:06 pm
content: Thats what I was leaning towards too, amazing how they designed things back then VS today. 75% of the airspace inside is nothing but airspace haha.We are keeping the old heathkit stuff (and still use the 500ma power supplys) in its glorious 1950's green and creme colored cases. More as a museum piece of "this si where we came from" sorta deal.Some stuff we have is still cloth wrapped wire in wood boxes with brass and bakealite terminals. Mostly the CENCO brand. I should post some pictures for people to oogle at (or jog some memories of "vintage forum users" using said stuff in highschool days)Where would be the best place to post said pictures on this forum? Off topic?

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 01, 2016, 04:22:55 pm
content: HiYou might want to consider the whole issue of storage before you make any decisions. I have enough stuff at this point that it's costing me $500 a month (for going on 20 years) to store all of it.I use Photobucket for pictures. There are *lots* of different sites out there.Bob
BP Microsystems Device Programmers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2016, 08:44:13 am
content: I own a BP Microsystems Device Programmer (BP-1600) since last year, I bought it second handed with a few modules (sockets for specific device packages).The pro's of this device is that it can programm almost any device ever made and does it with high speed and reliability.The con's are:- no support anymore, you are on your own- it is an old parallel port device programmer , so no support and you need Win XP to use the software- there are a lot of different modules you need to programm a specific device and they are not cheap (ebay they go for >$150)So I was wondering if there are more owners of these programmers and if they have manuals/schematics, ways of calibrating the devices and schematics of the modules ?Anything would be appreciated since my device need a small re-calibration (it complains that for some sockets the current is 600uA's instead of the expected 300uA's) and I could use to build myself some extra modules without paying an arm and a leg. I noticed the modules have an 8pin I2C eprom on them, so the programmer can identify this module.All information is welcome, and please share your programmer here. I will make some pictures soon and add them. I could also open it up and make some pictures from the inside.But they can also be found on the net like these:
LED display and case for $9 - What can you make with it (not a clock) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ez24
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2016, 08:31:35 pm
content: Are there any clever ideas what other project this could be used for other than a clockhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-C51-4-Bits-Electronic-Clock-Electronic-Production-Suite-DIY-Kits-Free-Shipping/1952168223.htmlSeems a nice case

author: Chumanista
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2016, 08:51:28 pm
content: Here is the best instruction I found:http://img.banggood.com/file/products/20160321211422SKU142210instruction.pdfFrom that we can get that the processor is STC15F204EA.It is manufactured by ST MCU (not to be confused with ST Microelectronics).Their website is down, but a copy of the datasheet can be found here:http://web.archive.org/web/20160116031804/http://www.stcmicro.com/datasheet/STC15F204EA-en.pdfIt is programmable via UART:https://github.com/zerog2k/stc_diyclock
Instashield IS-400B 4-port RS232 PCI card pinout - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: davorin
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 27, 2016, 12:26:46 pm
content: HelloDidn't find a better sub forum so I ask here (o;Does someone happen to have a pinout of the DB-37 connector on the Instashield IS-400B 4-port RS232 card?Well not really electronics/measurement related...but I want to use it for logging rs232 communication between several devices at once.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2016, 03:35:20 am
content: See if these might match, use a multimeter to make sure:http://support.bb-elec.com/article/14629/30021/http://www.titan.tw/download/manuals/DB-37_RS-232_pin-outs.htmlhttp://www.farnell.com/datasheets/26550.pdfhttp://www.omega.com/Manuals/manualpdf/M3183.pdf
ERSA MINOR S potency - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Salas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2016, 11:01:46 pm
content: Hi allHas anybody ever used this miniature soldering iron? Looks like it can reach a joint easily in crowded assemblies without touching around, but its only 5W. I wonder if it can tackle a through hole 1/4 W resistor joint at least. Any opinions of its usefulness in what situations? They use it a lot in jewellery I have read. It can be powered from a bench supply or a power adapter.If inadequate, any experience with the 16W ERSA TIP 260 instead?http://www.west-l.ru/uploads/tdpdf/260bd_eng_tds.pdf

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 09:51:54 am
content: QuoteAt 5W doubtful or it will take a loooonnnnnng time.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 10:12:22 am
content: The TIP 260 is a good and solid iron for most fine work. But it's not suited for ground planes and larger connectors. Mine is 20+ years old (grey handle) and I'd recommend the 1mm pencil tip.

author: Salas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 06:14:47 pm
content: I have a METCAL PS-900 station and various tips. That system does very well across a range of tasks in assembly and rework but because it has 8mm tip's neck diameter I just want a small enough handle alternative with overall thinner longer heater and tip for reaching to finished projects crowded areas where I could retouch or pull out some small component or a wire connection without danger of burning nearby components. So to avoid full disassembly.In your experience the TIP 260 has good reach and maneuverability for such operations? Does it heat up acceptably fast for a mains powered iron? I have also the JBC 14ST in mind but the ERSA looks slimmer in the handle's front. Also 5W more powerful.

author: Salas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 06:45:57 pm
content: Quote from: MosherIV on July 25, 2016, 09:51:54 amPrecisely my fear too. I like its tiny dimensions and shape though, the twelve seconds heat up time, the light DC cable. Thermal capacity should obviously suck big time, especially for repetitive touches. I would not expect 5W stuff to be popular but maybe someone who repairs mobile phones or alike could have used it so to enlighten us of its precise practical limits.

author: Salas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2016, 11:15:39 am
content: Lookie! I found some low power super cheap USB iron relevant video. Alright, its an $5 item and who knows how many of them even work in the first place before wondering if they all behave alike, but it serves us to see what 6W capacity can do on joints.It does a little something in the end it seems...

author: Salas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2016, 01:31:21 am
content: Opted for a TS 100 in the end
Teardown Generic, likely not legit Samsung USB charger - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: imidis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2016, 11:36:36 pm
content: Got two of these, I believe around $1.70 CAD ea. Were listed as generic non branded. What you all think? Seperation seems better than some. I do not think it's samsung.Last image shows a sketchy PCB USB ground mount connection one of them had.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 21, 2016, 11:41:38 pm
content: Quote from: imidis on August 21, 2016, 11:36:36 pmBetter than some you say? It is almost as bad as you can get. About 1 mm by looks of it. Of course it is fake, don't use it if you don't want to be electrocuted or burn down the house.

author: Aodhan145
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2016, 12:31:12 am
content: Thats pretty bad but I've seen worse, with power supply you (normally) get what you pay for.

author: Cyberdragon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2016, 06:19:51 am
content: LOL they are using a PCB trace as a fuse! What total trash!

author: imidis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2016, 07:46:57 am
content: Yep wraper, you are spot on, just about 1mm.Yeah, gotta love the touch as the squiggly fuse.Sorry, should have said compared to some others with even less or capacitive droppers. Yeah. wasn't expecting much, curiosity.
AmScope SE400-Z - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: alexg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 04:55:03 pm
content: For those who looking for more reviews of AmScope SE400-Z, just got mine yesterday, seriously happy with my purchase, everything seems easier now, enough space between desk and lens to move soldering iron, heatgun, other tools, etc... 10X magnification is just what I need for most if not all PCB work. Very happy, especially with price tag of under $180Below are some pictures I took with smartphone looking through one ocular, so quality of photo is not the best , but still good to show magnification, when you look at PCB with your eyes, it is sooo much better.Small thingy on the board is CFSH05-20L, probably one of the smallest schottky diodes 1mm in length.

author: jwrelectro
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 21, 2016, 04:30:00 am
content: Not the best??? I think the pictures look great, very clear and nice non-distorted field view. A few minutes ago I ordered the Amscope SM-4NT PX and hope I didn't make a mistake... we shall see. Congratulations on your purchase and hope you find it very useful.John
New Distributor for JBC Tools in Germany - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DuPe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2016, 11:01:17 am
content: Selling to everyone...http://www.batronix.com/versand/loettechnik/JBC.html(no affiliation)CheersPeter

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2016, 08:42:04 pm
content: wonder if they will add more products, have long time looked for these:http://www.jbctools.com/0016057-fume-extractor-for-al-a-product-1009-category-9-menu-70.htmlbut I cannot buy it from jbc store, since they don't ship....

author: DuPe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2016, 10:44:16 am
content: Quote from: neslekkim onYesterdayat 06:42:04 AMhttp://www.jbctools.com/0016057-fume-extractor-for-al-a-product-1009-category-9-menu-70.htmlbut I cannot buy it from jbc store, since they don't ship....It is surely worth asking: I found them extemely customer oriented in the past (buying some test gear)

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2016, 11:33:39 am
content: Quote from: DuPe on August 12, 2016, 10:44:16 amYes, sendt them an question now.
BNC kits - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: raptor1956
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2016, 06:59:25 am
content: I'm looking to pickup a kit with various BNC adapters (BNC to banana, 50 ohm terminators, BNC to RCA, male and female T's) but can't seem to find kits much less than $100USD. How about a pointer to such kits. The individual parts range in price from just a couple buck to more than $25 so buying the parts as individual parts could get pretty spendy.Brian

author: setq
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2016, 09:06:33 am
content: They all seem pretty expensive. It might be better to just buy what you need for a specific task incrementally than splash on a whole kit. I'm buying in quality Amphenol and Pomona stuff as I need it.Also don't touch the cheap stuff. It's awful.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2016, 09:23:54 am
content: These guys have an eBay shop or you can source directhttp://www.rfsupplier.com/
What type of thermocouple is in hakko 936/937/928/926/907? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Tarien
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2016, 08:51:54 am
content: I try find this in internet but any results.

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2016, 08:42:36 pm
content: Type K
Atten 938D soldering station question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: vehf277
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2012, 10:39:56 pm
content: Hi everybody!I wanna buy Atten 938D soldering station,http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATTEN-SOLDERING-STATION-AT938D-60W-Thermo-control-NEW-/160784734820?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256f845a64The soldering iron does not have the sensor, only the heater, 2-core. Is there a way to use it with the other iron having 4-core heating elenment with the sensor by making some mods maybe and if it is how to do so?Thank you in advance:)

author: xygor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2012, 09:32:20 pm
content: I'm not sure what you're asking. I think by "2 core" heater, they mean "2 wire", which most heaters are. Then there are usually 1 or 2 more wires for a temperature sensor. The heater core itself can also be used as a temperature sensor, but I don't know of any that do that. I'd like to hear of one.The one you are referencing looks to me like it *does* have a temperature sensor.---Edit: I think I see what you mean. It says it is temperature controlled, yet has only two wires. It probably is using the heater as the sensor. If J1 is the only connection (hard to read the schematic) to the iron, that would confirm it.Sure, you could mod the controller for 4-wire. Measure the resistance at various temperatures for the two heater types. If they are close, it should work. Connect the heater and leave the sensor disconnected. It the temperature curves are different, the mod wouldn't be trivial.Another possibility is that there's a thermocouple in series with the heater, but I don't think so based on the schematic.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2012, 05:35:01 am
content: I can barely read the schematic but it looks like they're measuring the resistance of the heater during the part of the AC cycle when the triac isn't conducting. Unusually clever for a Chinese design.

author: vehf277
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2012, 01:10:10 am
content: Quote from: xygor on November 13, 2012, 09:32:20 pmThank you for your rapid answer, I reposted the schematics, it is more clear now. What exactly to do for mod it?

author: Rabbit
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 30, 2016, 09:23:48 pm
content: It has a thermocouple in series with heater, positive on pin 5 iron connector

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2016, 09:56:08 pm
content: Does it have afive-pin socketandonly two pinsare used??

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2016, 10:05:56 pm
content: I made a file improvement. But I do not know, if that schematic is right.
Mean Well GS60A12-P1J teardown + noise question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 01:45:15 am
content: I have two very similar LG PC monitors from 2007 and 2006. They have two identical external 12V 3,5A power adapters. One of them broke down and was unrepairable so I bought a new Mean Well GS60A12-P1J 12V 5A switched PSU. It works well and is nice built. It holds together with two screws so it is easy to take a look inside. Photos are here.https://picasaweb.google.com/106264218831814439783/6296602422849096833#

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 01:48:27 am
content: But there are some1Vpp spikeson the output. They are about100ns wide.Is this OK and normal??TheMean Well GS60A12-P1JPSU was loaded with a 4 ohm power resistor.The measured frequency is often false because the waveform is quite complex.Please note that the scope was set to AC coupling.EDIT:Note that the automatic frequency measurement is often not correct on such a complex waveform.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 01:52:02 am
content: This is the output of the original LG DVE power supply after capacitors were replaced. There was also a 4 ohm load used. There is quite little noise on the output. Please note that the scope was set to AC coupling.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2016, 01:56:43 am
content: The IC used in Mean Well GS60A12-P1J is probablyNE1101from Neo Energy Microelectronics. Their webpage is offline nowadays.www.nem.com.tw

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2016, 06:42:46 pm
content: Any thoughts, please?

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2016, 06:38:24 pm
content: Well, my LG LCD monitor still works with this Mean Well PSU so I suppose that this noise is OK and normal.

author: Richard Head
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2016, 08:24:35 am
content: Looking at the waveform you attached tells you a great deal about the PSU. It appears to be a flyback topology that operates in discontinuous current mode (as expected). The operating frequency is about 66Khz (15us period). The switch "on" time is about 3-4us and the inductor unloads in about 8us. The triangular waveform is due to the output capacitor ESR as the output inductor unloads into it.If you want the scope image to be cleaner then use a short-wire measurement technique with the spring clip on the probe tip and disconnect the scope probe ground lead. If you have a decent scope probe it'll be shielded all the way to the tip. This will reduce the pick-up of radiated noise tremendously. If you have a Variac you can vary the mains input voltage and see a corresponding variation of the power switch duty cycle.
YIHUA 853AAA: to change the soldering iron? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: phantom
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2016, 12:37:25 pm
content: hi to all! i'm ruben and i'm write from italy. i would like to have some advice from you (super expert) about soldering station.i've an yihua 853aaa with an horrible soldering iron marked "yihua 907f". it's super fragile, all in plastic. horrible.i would like to know if i can switch it with a better soldering iron. i know there are a lot of fake hakko soldering iron....so i would like your helpi hope you can understand my horrible english
European or Asian Hakko FM-203 compatible with FM-2030 high power iron? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: aronake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2016, 09:52:23 pm
content: apparently the US version of Hakko FM-203 with serial number above 02203211002129 is compatible with FM-2030.Anyone know if the european or asian verrsion is this too?https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwiYzomP0JTOAhVFOBQKHXCZCa8QFggcMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fkb.hakkousa.com%2FExportPDF10551.aspx&usg=AFQjCNGr12zQNeSptDkiNWwVubQ_J9w29Q&sig2=Tp-Y22hCwxqAD7avSh3AIg&bvm=bv.128153897,d.d24
Hyakko 858D - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: FireFlower
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2016, 10:59:34 pm
content: So here we go, another 858D and its construction pics:Otherwise same as others but all wires go directly to PCB instead of having sockets. Also grounding issues because the case didn't get grounded with painted screws, case and covers and grounding cable going to PCB instead of transformer. Should be fine now but you get what you pay for.
Anyone experience with bad contacts on universal PLCC ZIF socket? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2016, 01:31:40 pm
content: So since a year I have this expensive 2ndhand device programmer from BP Microsystems and yesterday I tried to read and program some eprom in a PLCC package using anARIES 20-84 pin PLCC ZIF socket.No matter what I tried (clean the socket- and device- contacts with IPA, pressing the chip down manually) I could not get the device to read properly.It started out with 4 bad contacts, now it still has one to two bad contacts (after cleaning and manually pressing the ic).Does anyone have a solution for this problem or a similar bad experience with these universal ZIF sockets, I mean they cost $300 incl faceplates, something that expensive better work?http://www.arieselec.com/products/data/10010-universal-plcc-zif-test-socket.pdfhttp://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/aries-electronics/84-537-21/A331-ND/4822
Must See. Design flaw Clamp meter "UNI-T" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ammjy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 12:37:46 am
content: i got this UNI-T UT210E in AliExpress. and i opened case. see.Really Design Flaw. Spring have big tension, but, support wall is so thin. maby 1 mm.Must "Open Disput" !!!!!!!!!!!!

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 12:50:20 am
content: Did it fail?It looks OK to me, the "wall" is braced at either end and appears to have a brace in the middle as well. My "reckon" as a lay person (not a mech eng) is that it looks about right.

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 01:24:30 am
content: Mine has a small crack also. But I don't expect it to fail anytime soon, since there is a mating brace on the other half of the case.

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 01:27:08 am
content: Oh I didn't get that the indicated point was a crack I thought it was ridge for bracing. In that case, yes, design flaw.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 08:59:31 am
content: Quote from: ammjy on July 12, 2016, 12:37:46 amEven with the cover off, I have opened the jaws on mine several times without it cracking. Look at the pictures in the following thread.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 09:18:09 am
content: Must open disput for something seller hasnt done?! You musnt thinking straight. and you took it apart? beeep! warranty terminated! You are lucky for that flaw, mine (smaller clamp ut202 iirc) was dead by just spending most of its time in the shelf. just wait..

author: ammjy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 02:18:42 pm
content: Quote from: sleemanj on July 12, 2016, 01:27:08 amyep.. it's maby QC fail or really design flaw.

author: ammjy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 02:21:47 pm
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on July 12, 2016, 09:18:09 amhook push feel was not stable. so i opened and found. i'm sorry that your clamp meter dead !

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 07:37:32 pm
content: Quote from: ammjy on July 12, 2016, 12:37:46 amIt's not a design flaw.The clamps are not designed to be opened with the back cover removed: the back cover has another, bigger support dent that fits the lower one and distribute the force on a wider surface.Quote from: ModemHead on July 12, 2016, 01:24:30 am

author: ammjy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2016, 05:59:57 am
content: Quote from: mcinque on July 12, 2016, 07:37:32 pmwhen i opened, i didn't push hook. after open, straight found. maby, i was no luck.

author: rch
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2016, 10:14:28 am
content: Quote from: ammjy on July 14, 2016, 05:59:57 amIf generally the design seems to work for most people, all the more reason you should be given a replacement one from your seller. The moulding may be defective and crack more.
DKT-8858A (brandless) slim hot air gun station, worth it? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: FireFlower
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 09:36:44 pm
content: http://www.ebay.com/itm/301835447752Seems to be another version of popular 858/868 hot air stations. No idea what channel buttons do but my guess is you can set temperatures there for different rework situations.I am very tempted to buy it and tear it downEdit: Edited topic to contain actual model, only one seller on ebay,basically it is different package for 8858Actual cost from china : 198 yuans, (23€).https://detail.1688.com/offer/523776691156.html

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2016, 04:48:14 am
content: I love the fact it is labeled ESD SAFE. Wouldn't want non ESD SAFE air to blow on your boards.No, it's not worth it. The stand is useless. The interface that can't stand up on its own is useless. You'd have to build a proper holder for it.

author: FireFlower
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2016, 07:55:39 pm
content: So found original supplier from chinese 1688 (alibaba) but it is not available on international alibabaEdit: Well ordered regular 858D from Germany for 48€ incl. shipping
DCF Clock Casio DQD-70B review - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 09:41:07 pm
content: I made a DCF Clock Casio DQD-70B review.This radio controlled alarm clock is produced since 2005 or so but there were almost no reviews anywhere.There is a text-only review.https://www.amazon.co.uk/Casio-DQD-70B-8EF-Alarm-Clock-Dqd-70B-8Ef/dp/B000MRD1W0
Rigol DS1022C expanding memory deep - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Tezuya
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 16, 2016, 10:56:44 pm
content: Hi,I have a old osciloscope Rigol DS1022C with a little memory deep.I want tunnig it expanding this memory deep.Is possible make it?Someone have make it?Thank you.

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2016, 11:52:38 pm
content: I don't know about expanding memory, but there is this:http://codenaschen.de/tichyblog/index.php?action=blog&entry=17_Hacking%20Rigol%20DS1022C%20DS1042C%20DS1062C%20DS1102C
LTC6090 Heating  problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jadhavsandeep
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 05, 2016, 05:01:45 am
content: Hi every one i have LTC6090 heating problem. so give me solution of it plz........

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2016, 06:56:24 am
content: Quote from: jadhavsandeep on July 05, 2016, 05:01:45 amFlush with cool water ?
Chrome plated hand tools (wrench, screwdriver, drill) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Brutte
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 09:42:04 am
content: Can anyone explain why so many hand tools are chrome or nickel plated?I am not talking about zinc plating here, just chrome and nickel.Is there some reason behind it?Well, I do understand someone may want a chrome coated, huge masonry drill for business advertisement purposes but apart from that what is the use of chrome plated drill or a screwdriver?Another purpose I could imagine is when the seller wants to defy buyer. The tool might be made of chrome coated carbon steel but looks like it was made of an alloy steel that is rich in chromium. But that is cheating, could also be made of chrome plated gypsum.My third explanation would be that some people just love shiny chrome plated wrenches because of their peculiar esthetical reasons. Even though the plating would disappear after first hole drilled or first nut wrenched, they are willing to pay more just for that first experience.Any thoughts on that? Chromium plated transistors coming soon?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 09:46:55 am
content: I've never seen a chrome plated drill..Chrome plating on actual hand tools, like screwdrivers and spanners, is for corrosion protection, and so long as they're not abused, it doesn't flake off.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2016, 03:05:37 pm
content: Hard chrome is for wear resistance. Sears used to hard chrome its Craftsman router cutters for wood.John

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2016, 05:20:14 am
content: Chrome is not just esthetics. Chrome is hard. About 66-68 RC. A good knife is ~60. And you wouldn't want to use it as a wrench. It's just a plating, but I imagine what he said ^. Wear and corrosion resistance.Coincidentally, there's a thread about Amtech microscopes on the forum. The steel rod on the boom arm on some of these microscopes is susceptible to gouging/peening where it contacts the ball bearings. A machinist noticed that the rods are lacking the usual hard chrome plating for a rod of this purpose. They are undersized by a mils or two in addition to lacking the requisite surface hardness, as a result.Also, you can scrape gunk off a chrome plated tool with a knife without scratching it.I imagine 30 or 50 years ago, some tools would have been case-hardened. I suppose it's cheaper to add hard coatings/plating, nowadays. Plus when it breaks and flakes off, the tool is done, and you have to buy a new one. I wonder if nitro-carbeurization will ever be the norm.