Hakko FG-100 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 02:28:29 pm
content: anyone used one before?they seem to be on ebay/china for $15 or less, yet the real unit, if bought via amazon (for example) is well over $200.if anyone has a real one, I'd love to see what's inside. I ordered one of the ebay versions and I'll do a teardown as soon as mine gets here.it seems like its just a thermocouple and some simple controller, so I'm not at all sure what could demand a $200 price tag for this, other than market demand.anyway, for $15 I added one to an order I was placing anyway, so I'll see what that $15 buys me. it comes with those triangle flux capacitor looking things (lol) and I'm not sure why there are 3 leads on a thermocouple, but I'll soon find out.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 03:25:59 pm
content: IIRC, the Red and Blue legs are what's measured, the third leg is just for mechanical stabilization so it doesn't rock/swing when you put the soldering tip to it in order to get good contact.As per cost of the real thing, it seems you're paying dearly for the name in this case IMHO. Weller's even worse (~$700 for theirs).

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 03:31:39 pm
content: ah, just found the eevblog threads on this (did not come up on search but did come up on google search).what I'd like to find out, once I get mine, is if there is a simple jumper to change C to F or if its hardcoded per model. there is a C and an F orderable model and they are not the same model #.yeah, after reading a bit more, the 3 terms are just a 2 term K tcouple with a 3rd support wire.I would not spend a lot on this. never would I think to spend $200 on it! but for $15, ok, I'll see what its about.otoh, I already have a few tcouples and dmm's that read type-K's directly. this was more an impulse buy from a vendor I already was placing an order with. but might be an interesting tear-down. I have not seen any schematics for this online and no high res photos of its insides, either, so I'll shoot some when I get it.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 04:36:29 pm
content: Seem to recall a thread somewhere that showed how to change it from C to F, but not sure if this works on the copies or not. Also had tear down photos IIRC, so might be worth a search (might need to try some other names they're sold under, such as Lodestar). ;

author: staxquad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 04:44:30 pm
content: Quote from: linux-works on May 05, 2014, 03:31:39 pmC* and F* swap, doesn't look like it, unless there's pins to short on the processorto your dismay, you'll find that it works (for $200, Hakko removes the flux residue for you, for $15, you do it yourself)

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 04:45:16 pm
content: Found a pic of how to change the temp scale displayed. Also, search "tip thermometer", and a bunch come up, some with links to external sites such as adafruit, where I found the photo.

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 05:02:38 pm
content: cool! I wonder if the fakes respect that key sequence to change setting or if its only the real one.did not see any links to adafruit but that sounds interesting, I'll go look there, too.amazing that hakko could ask $200 for what is essentially inside even $15 dmm's these days. my vishy crap-o meter came with a tcouple (k) and ability to read it.

author: staxquad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 05:04:18 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on May 05, 2014, 04:45:16 pmthere's an on/off button and a max hold button, that's it.Combinations of on/off and MAX Hold gives nothing; *C is what I use anyway, so I don't care.,(Americans and their Imperialism measures)there's up/down buttons on Hakkos

author: staxquad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 05:10:34 pm
content: Quote from: linux-works on May 05, 2014, 05:02:38 pmYou're living on false hope (sorry to interrupt your circle jerk, I've got one in the hand)*C, get used to it

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 05:16:44 pm
content: I'm fine with C. in some regards, I know C better for irons than F.outside temp, I'm more used to F, but I'm ok with C for irons (strangely enough).just thought it would be nice to have the choice to switch them.I think I ordered the F version, anyway, from china.one worry I have, I've heard mention of 'chinese fahrenheight' or something crazy like that. what on earth could that mean? is the calibration different? does water not freeze at 32f and boil at 212f for china??

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 05:31:41 pm
content: Quote from: linux-works on May 05, 2014, 05:02:38 pmHere's thethreadI found it in. Unfortunately, I jumped the gun, as it appears to be for changing the displayed temp scale on the FX-888D rather than the FG-100.Regarding temp scale on genuine FG-100's from Hakko, you have to order the correct model, so it seems it's hardwired (C is the FG100-01, Farenheit FG100-02), and I'm not seeing any jumpers in photos posted in another thread. Seems the copies are doing the same, and may not even be producing units in the Farenheit scale at all (not seeing any other than one genuine Hakko listed on eBay).

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 05:34:52 pm
content: the one I bought was listed as F.I don't care that much which one they send, but the hacker in me would be curious to know if the mode can be switched. I'll poke around when I get mine.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 05:50:42 pm
content: Quote from: linux-works on May 05, 2014, 05:34:52 pmI'm fine with either, but a link would be nice.What I'm wondering though, is why they wouldn't just put a switch/button on it for temp scale, when even the cheapest ones (i.e. oral) usually have them, and those have been floating around for years (wouldn't expect there to be patents still in effect).

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 05:54:20 pm
content: from a product POV, it is crazy to stock 2 models when only 1 was needed, along with a switch (even a soft switch).someone must have done a cost analysis and, given the VERY HIGH profit they make on them, maybe its better for their bottom line to stock and sell 2 models.I would not have done it that way. why risk an out of stock lost-sale when you don't have to?

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 06:16:05 pm
content: You overpaid mine was $10See me thread here

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2014, 06:18:32 pm
content: did yours come with a pack of the sensor wires?I'm not going to worry about $5, mate (LOL!)

author: aroby
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2014, 02:41:51 am
content: I bought one the other week. There was a thread here where someone had screwed up the temperature settings on their FX888D and their iron tip was discoloring. I was having the same problem so bought one of these and calibrated my iron. It was more than 100F out! The FG-100 was Celsius onl, so I had to switch the iron into Celsius mode to calibrate it. I can't comment on its accuracy, but my iron is a lot better now.Anthony

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2014, 03:17:42 am
content: On the pictures posted, the pinout on the COB exactlymatches the ICL7116, a variant ofthat infamous multimeter ADC. So it should be pretty hackable if you want to switch temperature ranges/recalibrate it/etc. You'd just need to reverse-engineer the analog front-end, which doesn't look too difficult; there's aHEF4013B dual D flip-flopand anLM385-1.2 voltage reference.

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2014, 03:48:16 am
content: I'm assuming the 2 blue pots are for cal, also. I'll find out when I get it.it might be worth playing with. didn't know it was a chip with a spec sheet I could even get

author: DC5AJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 06, 2014, 08:24:03 am
content: Hi, I have the FG-100 in my lab, not sure if it is a fake or original hakko, bought it from a private person at ebay here in Germany. It was new and never used it showed F, so I thought don't turn it on turn it apartand I found a little switch inside witch labeled F C. After flipping the switch to C it shows the correct temperature in C. There must be some different versions out there. If somebody has a original FG-100 it would be interesting if there is a switch an the pcb.

author: Scottjd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2017, 10:01:49 am
content: Quote from: DC5AJ on May 06, 2014, 08:24:03 amAccording to this the authentic one can be switched from C to F on the PCB inside.http://kb.hakkousa.com/KnowledgebaseArticle10273.aspx

author: repairMatthias
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 24, 2023, 01:21:19 pm
content: this is a newer device. No FR4 but cheap pertinax. No external Opamp to see. No adjustment trimmers, but a place for one. No LCD soldered in. Quite low contrast. Only one contact row for LCD.