Just So You Know - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: PsychoMaster
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 06:27:36 pm
content: HiI have informed my biker pals about this but some folk get quite defensive of this well know product.I will tell the story as being 100% true and you do what you like with it. Once I ran a car garage and used to buy WD40 in one gallon cans and a spray dispenser.When some shiny new one pound coins came out I thought them pretty smart so I'll keep a few .I got a dark glass jar put the coins in it and filled it up with the WD40 to keep them shiny forever right?After about six months I thought I'd have a peep at them.These things are made of something resembling brass so I expected them to be OK but they where all black and corroded and most of the detail disolved.Well looking through my oscilloscope manual it recomends this stuff for the switches but I know I won,t bother. As I say it is a true tale ,I have used simular products without this problem.Do you want to learn the hard way?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 06:37:00 pm
content: WD40 is basically fish oil, good for cleaning things, but not good as either a lubricant or a protectant. It does have water bound up inside it, so the bimetal of the coins reacted with this water, and the dissolved salts in the liquid and on the coins, to make an electrochemical cell that corroded the nickel and brass coins.Using it on switches to clean is fine, just wash it off afterwards and apply a proper lubricating oil that will not evaporate. There are plenty of switch cleaners and lubricants available, some better than others, some that are excellent and some that are only fair. WD40 is not amongst those.

author: Richard Head
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 06:55:45 pm
content: Thanks for sharing that. Now I know to avoid it.

author: rolycat
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 07:47:35 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on April 26, 2015, 06:37:00 pmThis is a myth - WD40 does not contain fish oil.QuoteIt was designed to displace water - that's what the letters WD stand for - so it it's unlikely to have any "bound up inside it".It wasnotdesigned as an inert preservative, particularly if sealed up without allowing the volatile solvent to evaporate.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 08:23:45 pm
content: My brother was the regional sales manager for AMP in Canada. AMP did a study on the effects of WD40 (Water Displacement formula #40). The conclusion was that WD40 was good at displacing water, and cleaning. It was useless as a long term lubricant, and worse than useless as any type of protector. It is actually corrosive.Based on their investigations, they specifically recommended against using WD40 on any of their products.

author: Tandy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 08:31:53 pm
content: WD40 is not a lubricant, it is at best a penetrating oil that helps release seized joints. Penetrating oils are very volatile, they evaporate leaving behind the carbon deposit as a horrible sticky mess.The trouble is so many people think that WD40 can be used as a lubricant, it ends up being put in precision things like clock mechanisms and they get all gummed up. The cheapest and easiest way to keep small mechanical things lubricated is to use sewing machine oil.

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 12:41:09 pm
content: WD40 and CRC ruins copper wiring. At work we have field monitoring sites with data loggers interconnected with cat5 cable terminated into multi-pole connectors. These connectors are supposed to be waterproof but sometimes they still get waterlogged and some field persons acquired the habit of unscrewing the backshell and spraying them inside out with either WD40 or CRC. The stuff wicks under the wiring insulation and turns the copper pitch black and makes it completely unsolderable. It's amazing just how effectively the stuff wicks up beneath the insulation. I recall in the field one day cutting back one of the cat5 cables about 1/3 of a meter at a time only to be greeted with unsolderable blackened copper on each instance until I had finally chopped away nearly 10 meters worth! From this experience I'd never use the stuff on anything electrical.

author: atferrari
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 12:52:31 pm
content: Quote from: Tandy on April 26, 2015, 08:31:53 pmNot inclined to mechanical things myself but dare to say it is the most common misconception about lubricants, which the WD40 is not.

author: rolycat
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 01:36:54 pm
content: Quote from: atferrari on April 27, 2015, 12:52:31 pmWD40isa lubricant - it says so on the can. Of course, water is also a good lubricant - until it evaporates.The problem with WD40 is that it is designed and marketed as a 'multi-use product', and each of those uses is compromised by the requirements of the others.

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 01:40:58 pm
content: Use switch cleaner for switches. Doesn't leave residue.Use WD40 for unsticking things, then use switch cleaner to get rid of the WD40 residue then use the proper oils. Mechanical components are usually fine with a drop of good old 3-in-1 oil or similar. Done this for years.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 01:47:46 pm
content: WD40 is a good lubricant on steel to steel, like a gate hinge, for a while. Just reapply after every rain storm, or after every sunny day.

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 01:54:53 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on April 27, 2015, 01:47:46 pmWhereas if you used a real lubricant (like a waterproof grease or heavy oil) you'd find your re-lube interval would stretch out to once a year (or several years) as the water has great trouble washing it out. You can get heavy grease into hinges with the help of a heat gun, or you can knock out the pins to clean and lube them.WD40 is mostly kerosine, so it has the ability to re-solubilise remaining lubricant and help it spread around (but it mostly washes it away), then it simply evaporates and leaves the metal completely un-protected. It is a pretty neat glue remover though.It should never be used to "lubricate" anything you don't have a death wish for. CRC has a thousand or so products, some of which behave like WD40 and some which are real lubricants. Personally I use their lanolin based sprays to lube and protect hand tools (like pliers and cutters), but _never_ WD40.<edit> and CRC makes a great Silicone spray which works a treat on electronic connectors (though there are plenty of good ones out there). Bulk coffee machine grease (high viscosity silicone grease) makes a brilliant dilectric grease for automotive connectors too.

author: Farley
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 02:33:26 pm
content: Years ago, in my naivety, I used to spray WD40 on the garage door tracks, wheels and pulleys thinking I was lubricating them. In reality I was washing out whatever lubricant was already there. An expensive lesson.Other than using it to occasionally try to free a rusted joint, the only other use I have for it now is as a lubricant when drilling holes in metal (advice from a machinist). I keep a can of it next to the drill press.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 03:41:57 pm
content: Good cutting fluid for aluminum. Aside from displacing water, it's useless otherwise.Speaking of delicious machine-shop solutions: use bacon grease for cutting steel. Works good *and* smells good!Tim

author: Galenbo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 03:51:22 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on April 27, 2015, 01:47:46 pmBetter use chainsaw oil for that. Not ideal but suits it 100x times better.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 06:10:33 pm
content: I lubricated the roller shutters at work, and as I was not going to buy 5 cans of bike chain lubricant for that, I just used a bottle of used gearbox oil, as I had it after doing the oil change after reassembling the box and running it for 10 minutes, to flush out any debris left over in the half I did not open.Took around 1l of oil to do all the springs, bushes and the side tracks, along with a good part of the floor ( hard to get it in there with the door still assembled, and I do not have the lifting equipment to hold it while stripping it, along with needing 3 extra people) and it now works too smoothly, you need to hold it against the springs or it opens on it's own. Other door I could not treat as thoroughly, there was a queue after I had it closed for 3 minutes just doing the springs a light coat, but it at least got some.better than the bike chain lube, at least cost wise, and I can do it a few times with the 15l left in the drum. It just smells a little. If I need a thicker oil I use the Gengear 630, very thick oil for a large worm box. that one is a big job to work on, just because it is 80kg for the box and another 80kg for the motor, though there I do have hooks already for a chain block.

author: PsychoMaster
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2015, 04:47:09 pm
content: Wow I don't believe this!When I have told motorcyclist not to spray on their wiring looms in Winter some have got well nasty saying they've used it afore I was born and they,ll use it always blaa blaa.Obviously there's a lot more brains about on this site but obviously a lot of people don,t understand the qualities of this product and I think that's down to advertising.It is definiatly sold stated as protecting all metals.It does dispell water off electrics well .I have used a product in a red can called GT? that seems OK.

author: Mechanical Menace
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2015, 05:15:31 pm
content: Quote from: PsychoMaster on April 29, 2015, 04:47:09 pmGT85, I take a can on bike rides.

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 02:23:40 am
content: Quote from: PsychoMaster on April 29, 2015, 04:47:09 pmThat's often like trying to tell the Pope there is no god. I learned a long time ago to either suggest a better alternative or not mention it at all. These days I just don't mention it because I've had instances where after years of abuse with inadequate substances, things have failed soon after taking my suggestion and switching and it suddenly became my fault.

author: PeterFW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 02:30:13 am
content: There is a reason why WD40 is no were to be found in my box of lubricants, for one, because it is not a lubricant as many have allready pointed out.I am a bit of a snob when it comes to lubricants but i can not think of a single use for this stuff.The only thing it can do, is smell nice.

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 02:46:44 am
content: Quote from: PeterFW on April 30, 2015, 02:30:13 amIt's actually a really good degreaser. Not surprising given it's mostly kero.

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 04:14:11 am
content: We've heard in this thread that sewing machine oil is a better lubricant than WD-40, but can someone please recommend a good barrier/protectant? For example, something that I could spray onto steel, or copper PCBs, that would retard corrosion, but something far less permanent than a solid lacquer (e.g. that PCB lacquer stuff).I always imagined that WD-40 was like vaseline (i.e. petroleum jelly) dissolved in a volatile solvent; you spray it on and it leaves a very thin layer of "vaseline" behind, which would act as a barrier to water and air (an easily rubbed-off layer, for sure, but still far better than nothing). Now that I learn that the residue left behind by WD-40 is corrosive, I want to find something similar but non-corrosive.( Interestingly, the outer skin of the Atlas ICBM wasapparentlycoated with WD-40 topreventcorrosion, but of course that's probably true only for whatever metal the missile skin was made of, and whether they used exactly the same WD-40 that we can buy is doubtful. )

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 04:36:20 am
content: Tectyl 506 for steel, aluminium as a protective coat. comes in 2 sizes, a spray can and a drum.

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 04:46:35 am
content: Awesome, thanks, hadn't heard of that stuff. Love how it can be washed off with mineral spirits if required.Is there a corresponding product for copper and/or silver?

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 05:25:29 am
content: Quote from: rs20 on April 30, 2015, 04:14:11 amThere are several anti-corrosion products that work well on steel. On copper PCBs you also need to be sure that the coating is dielectric, which is a property that most anti-corrosive sprays don't advertise.Many sprays are based on wax emulsions:Boeshield T9LPS 3CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor 06026Amsoil HDMPWaxoylAnd some are lanolin-based:FluidFilm (also claims to be dielectric)CorrosionX HD is purported to contain lanolinStellar Rust Rescue 100, for stainless steels in corrosive environments. claims to be lanolin basedand there are those who improvise their own anti-corrosive sprays or dips by dissolving paraffin wax (like the wax rings used to seal toilets) or beeswax in kerosene.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 06:08:00 am
content: I've heard spray lacquer recommended for covering PCBs. Apparently the most common variety is solderable, so that's handy.Tim

author: aargee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 06:56:57 am
content: I think it was WD40 we sprayed on used dot matrix cloth printer ribbons with to redistribute the ink and get a few more pages out of them.Have a can in the garage.. I think CRC 2-26 is the same sort of stuff?

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 07:52:48 am
content: The ferry-tale says:WD stands for "Water Displacement"It was never meant to be a lubricant.I am surprised too, to see WD40 being used as a lubricant at so many places around the world.It is just an illusion!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 04:33:29 pm
content: Textly 506 is pretty much the de rigeur corrosion protectant on aircraft. Applied in a thin film inside every panel, behind all exterior surfaces and such in marine aircraft. You still are going to be taking the whole thing down to rivets every Major cycle, but you are not then doing wholesale sheet replacement.You know you have a problem when you put a helicopter on the weighbridge and get it all checked out, and it is 47kg heavier than the last time it was weighed. Turns out Tectyl is heavy, especially if you combine it with the 40kg of Araldite epoxy that was in use to hold the mounting inserts in the honeycomb floor. Using the helicopter as a gunship with a 20mm cannon ( lovely to shoot, though aiming it is more of see where you are hitting and walk on to the target in short bursts before the pilot complains about flying sideways) tended to rip the gun mounts, pilot and copilot chair along with the bench seat out of the floor composite. Each time that epoxy block just got bigger and bigger till almost the whole floor was Araldite. It stopped then, strong stuff. Was a pretty expensive floor to get though, and such a pain to install, but you could do it without taking the whole cockpit apart.

author: PeterFW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 05:06:58 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on April 30, 2015, 04:33:29 pmBut the price of the floor is not so important comprared to the price of one trigger pull on the 20mm

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 05:26:44 pm
content: Fire the 16mm LMG on the ground. 5 rounds, moved back 1m in the gravel per round.........When I was younger I could take off leaves at 500m with a R2, after getting used to the particular rifle. R5 300m, poorer accuracy at 500m meant I could hit a vehicle, but not where.Fun day cleaning 50 rifles after shooting, packing them again with oil and then grease before packing them again in boxes.

author: V8Dieselpower
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 07:09:54 pm
content: Just while we're on the subject of solvents and cleaners etc some of you may come across brake cleaner at some point. If used to de-grease a surface prior to welding or heating be aware that the heat or arc causes the solvent to produce phosgene gas. i apologise if this has been highlighted before and I'm sure some of the more knowledgeable users here will be able to tell us exactly what happens but please be aware.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 07:27:04 pm
content: Most of these cleaners contain chlorinated organic compounds, as these are good solvents, though they are not exactly ther best thing to breathe. Anything containing chlorine is going to release short chain chlorine compounds when it is heated up or burnt, as the chlorine is released from the base. Thus the chlorine gas released.Simplest thing is burning PVC, which releases a smoke that is going to at a minimum make your eyes water, and which will damage your lungs, mouth and any perspiration on your skin. It is the major killer in house fires from the massive amounts of PVC and other chlorine containing plastics used in houses for furniture, carpets and even the paint on the walls.

author: jlmoon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 08:11:25 pm
content: WD 40 works well for detailing rubber under the hood of your automobile and soft plastic parts such as the black bumper covers on trucks, makes those radiator and heater hoses look better than new, and hides the blemishes on cooling fan shrouds.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 08:36:30 pm
content: I don't think halogenated solvents are any hazard to health (aside from carbon tet's known influence), they're mainly inhalation hazards due to general anesthetic properties, and highly undesirable in the ozone layer, and as ground water contamination (where they sit long enough to react into much more sinister compounds). Likewise, exposure to chemicals (especially strong bases or other nucleophiles) or fire cause breakdown and transformation to other things.Of particular note to the combustion of chlorinated plastics: fire is full of carbon radicals, which love to reassemble into amorphous soot (as well as more-than-trace amounts of buckyballs and nanotubes), carbon rings and short reactive molecules. Tack on some chlorines and oxygens to those rings and you're very likely to get more-than-trace amounts of dioxin, a notorious toxin and contaminant. The point being, even if you don't start with an aromatic polymer, you will still get aromatic byproducts, and with chlorine around, you will get dioxins.Trouble with the dioxin is, biology is surprisingly sensitive to it, so it doesn't take much (ppm, ppb even) to cause problems. That's the biggest reason to trash or recycle chlorinated or brominated plastics, and avoid the fumes if they burn (accidentally or otherwise). HCl is also a prominent byproduct of burning, but it's probably the lesser of health hazards, since the choking-burning sensation is easy to avoid (assuming you can get away from it) and doesn't have chronic effects.Tim

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2015, 05:40:26 am
content: My knowledge of toxicology is no deeper than anyone else who can use Wikipedia, but there is reported to be a link between exposure to trichloroethylene and tetrachloroethylene, and later acquiring Parkinson's Disease. Toxicity was also one of the reasons that 1,1,1-trichloroethane largely replaced them as a solvent in the 1960s.Toxic interactions can be surprising. n-hexane is an aliphatic hydrocarbon, a class of chemical that you would expect to be pretty harmless. But when metabolized in the liver, it becomes 2,5-hexanedione, a powerful neurotoxin. Since this was discovered a few decades ago, technical hydrocarbon solvents have been reformulated to reduce n-hexane content (replacing it with various isohexanes).

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2015, 05:30:20 pm
content: I hadn't read about n-hexane, interesting.Parkinson's (or similar) diseases have been known from occupational welding exposure too,http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ManganismTim

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2015, 05:47:29 pm
content: Anybody ready for a good time sink?https://archive.org/details/softwarelibrary_msdos_games?&sort=-downloads&page=1For all of us that were using computers when a window was something you looked out of.

author: Galenbo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 02:52:08 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on April 30, 2015, 07:52:48 amBut mostly by bunglers. Next thing to use as lubricant when no WD40 around is the soap to do the dishes.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 10:39:29 pm
content: I grew up with my father using Liquid Wrench to loosen things, 3 in 1 oil for lubricating things and a bar of soap in the tool closet for lubricating screws before screwing into wood. I still keep the Liquid Wrench, I also have light machine oil, white lithium grease for the sliding door, vegetable oil for my shredder and Marvel Mystery Oil for lubricating the card printers we have deployed in the field-this coming from the printer company engineer!NO WD-40!

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 07:06:49 am
content: Quote from: rs20 on April 30, 2015, 04:46:35 amThis is useful:http://www.jaycar.co.nz/Service-Aids/Chemical-Aids/Aerosols/Circuit-Board-Lacquer-Spray-Can/p/NA1002

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 07:18:08 am
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on October 17, 2015, 10:39:29 pmMe neither, I've never had much faith in it for other than water displacement or as a penetrant.My goto product for light lubrication and light duty corrosion protection is Inox, made in Aussie.http://www.inoxmx.com/inox/mx-3-lubricant/

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 08:38:47 am
content: Coming back to the WD40, i do believe you should not use it for copper, electronics etc. But for garden tools it should repell water and protect the surface afterwards, that is also what they claimQuote

author: funkyant
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 09:51:28 am
content: Back on topic, I can also verify that after extensive field testing (I have millions of dollars worth of Audio Visual equipment in permanent outdoor installaions) that indeed WD40 is pretty much useless for anything besides a cleaning aid, or to help unstick things like rusted screws, etc.For mechanical uses, if I need long term protection, I have successfully used sewing machine oil or the 'jelly' kind of grease, as others have suggested. For cleaning switches and pots, you just cannot beat Deoxit D5 - and Deoxit F5 to lubricate and protect after cleaning.

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 10:52:59 am
content: I was taught by the machinists, tool makers, fitters and turners, etc that a light application of oil was important for preventing rust on stored tools, they were all happy to apply a light coat of WD-40 (typically from a cloth) on tools when packing them away as it was relatively clean to handle and always on hand. This is from workshops with decades of history and experience, and I continue doing it without any problems other than staining to the storage materials.Bizarrely the WD-40 wasn't used for much other than cleaning tools! Cutting fluids for hand work were usually ethanol, or tapmagic and a wide array of lubricants were always at hand.Oh, and don't apply it to any electrical contacts, they will likely be ruined if left in place. Contact grease and other electical specific products only.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 11:00:53 am
content: One of the best crawling lubricants for metal to metal contact I have found is "Break Free" that is used extensively in lubricating guns.For switches I am using "Deoxit F5"Another great oil for almost all applications is Vacuum Pump oil, because it sticks well to metal under extreme conditions.But it is very expensive.I always have a little tiny bottle standing around.The one I am using is "Anderol 555"WD40 is banned as a lubricant where I work.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 11:24:45 am
content: I have a fond spot for WD-40, I grew up in the hills of Adelaide, about 40-50 inches of rain a year ( in winter mainly) often coming in sideways at times. Starting a Morris Oxford in winter with Lucas electrics (well know as the "Prince of Darkness" locally) was a work of art and WD-40 your weapon of choice.I am a fan of spray on Lanolin for coating tools for rust prevention and as a cutting lubricant for steel.Engine oil, a white lithium grease, silicon lube and a general car grease (grease gun type) cover my general needs.Edit; Have not had to use switch lubricant yet but the warning appreciated.

author: Balaur
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 02:35:44 pm
content: Is this a good time to mention Ballistol?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 06:12:36 pm
content: Quote from: Balaur on October 18, 2015, 02:35:44 pmOr KG12.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 06:51:38 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on October 18, 2015, 11:00:53 amfor Break Free, I've used it on firearms for years. I will add a plug for Q20--http://www.q20arabia.com/products/q20-multi-purpose-lubricantA ham radio friend, who is an automotive engineer and an old school machinist, turned me onto it. He gave me a small can of spray and it does a really good job of lubrication.

author: Deathwish
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 19, 2015, 09:16:22 pm
content: says it all

author: crispy_tofu
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2015, 12:43:33 am
content: Man size pressure pack?

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2015, 07:32:44 am
content: Quote from: crispy_tofu on October 20, 2015, 12:43:33 amwhat about the "gives better penetration"

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 20, 2015, 07:36:46 am
content: Great Ad+++++

author: GK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2015, 10:31:01 am
content: "1 1/2 DIAM" is "MAN SIZE"?

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 20, 2015, 10:52:36 am
content: I want a T shirt with that on!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 20, 2015, 07:17:22 pm
content: Quote from: VK5RC on October 18, 2015, 11:24:45 amLucas, yes, the Prince of Darkness. Also the inventor of the intermittent wiper, and the tune playing horn.Was out one day in the old works van and it started to rain, so while I was in the spares place I had gone to I picked up 2 small cans of Q20, and put them in the pile of assorted fasteners I came out to buy. I had parked under an awning, so went out and used half the one can on the van electrics, as I was going back on a freeway rather notorious for flooding in heavy rain, and this was looking like it would be heavy. 50mm in a half hour is a common summer fall here, so if the drains are a little clogged with the national flowers you get big puddles.Got on the freeway and it started to fall down hard, so went back at 20kph with lights on and wipers going. Came to the flood, and there was a VW stopped just after the puddle, with the driver getting wet outside. Stopped, opened passenger window and asked what was wrong, and he replied stalled in the puddle. Gave him the part can and advised him to use it all on distributor inside and plug area, and to keep the can, then drove off. I think it did work.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2015, 12:33:29 pm
content: Youngs 303 gun oil, the aftershave for real men

author: Balaur
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 21, 2015, 01:07:07 pm
content: Quote from: KJDS on October 21, 2015, 12:33:29 pmWhile the WD40 is the deodorant, right?Not only gentle on skin, but it smells great and provides long lasting protection for up to 24 hours* without irritating your skin.* Typical protection duration for mechanical and bio-mechanical applications. Use the 3-IN-ONE formula for more staying power.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2015, 05:31:25 pm
content: Quote from: KJDS on October 21, 2015, 12:33:29 pmTrue.Hoppes #9 also.

author: briselec
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 21, 2015, 11:38:33 pm
content: Quote from: BradC on April 30, 2015, 02:46:44 amCO Contact Cleaner - I use it for cleaning electrical and electronic equipment and it's also a brilliant degreaser. Purchasing officer always bitches about the price though.

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 01:33:37 am
content: I've found WD-40 to be handy for removing label residue (adhesive), but not much good for lubrication.On another note, I learned a few years ago now on some forum or another what turns out to be an excellent penetrating oil for loosening corroded/rusted/stuck fasteners (more in an automotive application, but I'll throw it out here anyway) - a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Surprising though it may be, I find that it works very well and is easy to make up. The only caveat is that if you put it in one of those plastic squirt bottles with the dip tube and the angled spout, you'll need to loosen the top slightly when not using it or the evaporating acetone will pressurize the bottle and force it up the spout where it will happily dribble out and make a mess.-Pat

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 04:54:12 am
content: I heard the same thing about the atf mix, never tried it. Might as well do it when I change my cv axles over the holidays.

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 22, 2015, 05:56:46 pm
content: Give it a shot - I was very pleasantly surprised!-Pat