FLUKE 332B/AF in the slaughterhouse - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: Dr. Frank
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2014, 07:05:02 pm
content: I bought this instrument years ago "for parts".The high voltage pre-regulator was totally blown, power semiconductors unobtainium.I tested many stability and accuracy parameters in 10V and 100V range, by using an external PSU instead.Now it's rip-off time, as you can see.I will keep the precision assemblies for re-use, the rest goes to the scrap yardThis B/AF version had been assembled late 1972, when Apollo 17 flew to the moon.So the cable harness is over 40 years old, and several cable isolation are awfully sticky.Obviously, the plasticiser comes out of the PVC isolation.The switching assembly, carrying the high voltage of up to 1200V, is isolated from the front plate.That includes the metal case, and the switch shafts.

author: krivx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2014, 07:22:47 pm
content: Have you contacted the volt-nuts mailing list? You may be able to part it out for a decent profit.

author: Dr. Frank
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2014, 07:36:12 pm
content: The B/AF version, and its schematics equals the 335D, only without differential VM.It's a sophisticated version, all PCBs are fully equipped with semiconductors, i.e. no mechanical relay chopper.On its 15V reference PCB, it features the very first reference amplifier, Fluke presumably invented, and which all of its later references and calibrators are based upon. (SZA263, LTFLU).This reference assembly, the black round part, consists of an oven from Klixon. Klixon brand still exists, but terminated such temperature stabilizers recently.The oven is a PTC - characteristics heater element, stabilizing the temperature to 76°C.If the 24V oven supply voltage is kept constant to +/- 10mV, the oven temperature is held constant to a few mK.The reference amplifier obviously is produced by T.I., P/N: DH80417B, date code 7223.It is put upside down into the oven part, and then the plastic cap fixes the whole assembly, P/N 4ST1-2 K2A.The cap is quite thin, so the assembly is sensitive to air draught, several ten ppm fluctuation can be observed on the bench.An additional poly styrene piece over the assembly improves stability greatly.The reference amplifier is trimmed via Zener current to about +2ppm/K T.C. (without oven).The 15V were stable after 3 minutes to 10ppm, and to < 1ppm after 6h warmup.2h stability / noise is about 0.25ppm. (standard deviation)That's at least 5 times worse than modern references, but exceptional for 1972, I think.The instruments T.C. is specified 2ppm/K, ten times worse than later calibrators.

author: Dr. Frank
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2014, 07:53:07 pm
content: Here are the really good parts, I want to re-use.The 332/335 can be understood as a big, inverting OpAmp.The 15V reference creates 10µA, 100µA or 1mA constant currents by the trimmable, precision range resistors of 1.5M, 150k and 15k.A chopper Op Amp with HV crowbar / driver stage produces the output voltage of up to 10V, 100V, or 1kV, determined by the sample string.Very nice discrete chopper circuit, using 2 FETs already.The sample string is a 7 dial resistor chain, from 0.1 Ohm resistors on the lowest and 100k resistors on the highest dial.That gives 1.111111MOhm max, 100 mOhm resolution.Each of the first three stages of the sample string can be trimmed to < 1ppm linearity.The range resistors and the complete sample string resistors are matched to the same T.C., so that the gain shift over temperature of the whole amplifier is very low.See series numbers on the individual resistors, and the matching label "62" on both , range resistor and sample string PCBs.

author: Dr. Frank
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2014, 08:05:24 pm
content: Well, I will just keep the reference and those two resistor PCBs.Complemented with an LM399H assembly and a 7652 chopper they will make a handy 0..10V reference.Adding my current source circuit (I have published here, elsewhere) will give an ultra stable constant current generator, adjustable to 7 digits resolution, and 6 ranges from 10.000000 µA to 1000.0000 mA.Will be very similar to Krohn Hite CR 106 current source.I think, the rest of that 332B is of no use for anybody.Frank

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2014, 10:34:16 pm
content: Oh, what a pity. I have a Fluke 332A, that's been sitting on a shelf non-functional for years due to a bad mechanical chopper. The contact points are tiny gold wires, and they'd worn enough to drift the sample phasing out of the required timing window, which meant no gain in the output voltage control loop.With the chopper cover removed, it looked like it would be fixable by bending the contacts, but I couldn't figure out (in the time I had then) how to do it while observing the result, to get it right.Still hoping to get that unit going again someday. While it worked it was very nice. I happened to be watching the output voltage on a HP 3456A DMM when it went bad, and seeing the previously highly accurate thing start to drift off was sad.

author: Dr. Frank
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2014, 11:19:07 pm
content: Quote from: TerraHertz on February 23, 2014, 10:34:16 pmYes, the 332/335 are quite nice.The mechanical chopper can be replaced by a much better, modern circuit .. see here:http://www.friedrich-messtechnik.de/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=blogcategory&id=9&Itemid=14Description is in German only, and just click on the photos, the explicit links do not work anymore.That guy has tested the replacement, obviously. He also sells an LTZ1000 based, completely ovenized 10V reference, which is traceable to our German PTB.. so he seems to be a metrology wizard...His chopper replacement should even be better than the original Fluke FET chopper, I have shown here.If you can redo the layout (without those bugs), and etch the PCB, that would revive your calibrator.Frank

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2014, 11:54:07 pm
content: Thanks for the post Dr. Frank.

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2014, 12:32:20 am
content: Quote from: Dr. Frank on February 23, 2014, 11:19:07 pmThanks, interesting! Via google-translate the text is clear, and I've screen-cap'd the illustrations. (Why do people do that 'you can't save-as my pics' thing?)QuoteFor simple, one-off circuits like that, kynar point-to-point wiring on fiberglass perf-board is easy and works fine. The one construction problem is the weird board connector. I don't want to cut up the existing board, but if I can find another with the same connector I can cut and graft the entire thing to some perf-board.Another nuisance is that in my unit the 'included' card extender is missing. So are the internal top and bottom shield plates, but they are easy to make - just flat sheets of aluminum with some holes.I bought it on ebay years ago, cheap as it was listed as dead. Problem was a bad electro, easily fixed. But whoever had previously tried to fix it was a bastard, and had not bothered to replace the internal covers and extender.I have an original manual with schematic, so this upgrade idea is very attractive.Pics:

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2014, 12:49:51 am
content: Hmm... So you are not going to keep the chopper PCB?It looks like it has the exact same edge connector mechanicals as my 332A chopper board.I wonder if it's actually electrically compatible?See pic of my dead one, with the schematic.At the worst case, I could use the edge of the card with the contacts, together with the circuit from that site.Do you feel like selling it? Or better still, donating it? I'd pay postage.Edit: I just noticed the card # is '404'. How ironic.

author: Dr. Frank
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2014, 08:30:27 am
content: Quote from: TerraHertz on February 24, 2014, 12:49:51 amIt seems, sending that PCB to Australia would not be that expensive and not complicated.. dunno about customs declaration.The chopper should be a plug-in replacement, I assume... will verify that.. perhaps those three zero trimmers have to be adapted.As your 332A has those just beautiful drum dials, it would be a pity not to make a transplant...Frank

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2014, 01:01:49 pm
content: Quote from: Dr. Frank on February 24, 2014, 08:30:27 amThe last thing I bought from Germany was a manual, and that was no problem. I'll happily pay for a pack and post. Customs - usually post offices have small stick-on declarations. "Vintage circuit board" or something like that. I'll PM you my postal address and email.QuoteI found a 332B manual here:http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-9-4931-383-14-1.pdf(21MB)A quick compare of the chopper amplifier in that to my 332A schematic (see scan) - they possibly are pin compatible.The 332B manual also includes a mechanical chopper the same as my board - looks like it's an option.QuoteIt's certainly a stroke of luck for me!Yes, I really love those clunky but pretty controls.

author: CaptnYellowShirt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 05:25:10 am
content: Thanks for the great write up and pictures!

author: SoundTech-LG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 07:21:25 pm
content: The 332B/AF must be a bit later version of the 341A/343A. Very similar circuitry. The voltage ref. ckt. using an op amp, where the 341A/341B Vref uses discretes. Interesting to see the development changes. My 341A had a bad 2N3904 in the vref ckt., all cal'd up and running fine now.

author: guido
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2014, 06:31:55 pm
content: Hi all!My first post here! I've been watching Dave's videos and reading the forum for a while now. When i saw this post, i registered and contacted Frank to see if i could get a connector set. I've got a 335D with a bad null meter and i would like to make myself an extender card. Instead of only the connectors, i've gotallof the remains coming my wayI don't live close, but by a stroke of luck i've got a collegue that lives close in the Frankfurt area. I'll get it next week, after the carnaval holiday.Here are some pictures of my 335D. In the voltmeter section, there is a transformer missing. This is present now after i got it from a scrapyard 335D from the states. But the nullmeter still doesn't work. When measuring V or I from the calibrator output, the meter is fine. The calibrator part itself also works fine, allthough i should check all of the parts.So a big Thank You to Frank

author: Dr. Frank
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 08:53:38 am
content: I just wanted to add the stability measurements, I have done on the Reference Amplifier assembly.After turning on, the reference voltage shoots over, caused by a hysteresis effect in the RefAmp (not displayed here).The assembly afterwards needs around 6h to stabilize to 1 ppm, see fig. 1.Measuring the 2h stability between 25200 .. 32400 sec , yields 0.25 ppm of noise / instabilities (standard deviation).The T.C. of the RefAmp can be determined by fig. 2.After switching off the oven at 76°C, the reference voltage decreases from 15.00015V to 14.99844V at 21°C, giving around 2ppm/K T.C. of the non heated RefAmp.

author: Dr. Frank
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2014, 09:47:59 am
content: In the last part, I'd like to show the overall stability of the 332B/AF versus the HP3458A.After 12h of warmup, and with ambient temperature stable to +/- 0.3°C, the 10V output from the 332B/AF is stable to +4 .. -2ppm.Many disturbances can be observed, their root cause is not obvious.The 2h stability/noise, measured between 39600 and 45800 sec, yields around 0.43ppm (standard deviation).The successor, Fluke 5440B/5442A is about 10 times more stable and less noisy, i.e. 0.04ppm stdev over 2h.(That's also a reason, why I tore this 332B apart)Here's an updated list of reference sources, DVM and calibrators, regarding their stabilities and their known oven temperatures.The Fluke 8508A should be built similar to the Datron 1281.The only device, which oven temperature is not exactly known yet, is Keithley 2002.I hope, TiN is able to measure the temperature on his device soon.Frank

author: classicTEK
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2014, 06:29:16 pm
content: Does anyone have the full size images from the german website and the chopper?Cheers,David

author: guido
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2014, 10:14:16 pm
content: pm sent

author: guido
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2014, 12:11:18 am
content: So i made the extender with connectors from the parts from Frank's 332B:Trying to fix the null detector metering:I replaced some parts (bad cap) and tried to get it working. But the meter would go all over the place when used as volt or diff meter. Only monitoring the 335 V and I worked fine. Probed and tested a lot of parts, no luck. Put it aside a few times (a 2465 came along) and tonight i gave it another try. So i fiddled a bit again (taking out some components to test them) and got it working. Great, put it all back together and..... bad again.Then ifinallygot a bright idea and had a close look at the connectors on the pcb. And sure enough, one of them had two bad soldering joints, just noticable. Turnes out to be the one (16) for the connection to the sensitivity switch/resistors in the feedback loop of the ampSo next is a good clean of the two pcb's i had my hands on and then check against my meters. It probably needs some tweaking. The voltage trip doesn't seem to work in the 10V range, but i probably won't bother.The remains of the 332 now live in a shoe-box

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2014, 05:30:42 am
content: I have a Fluke 3330B sitting under my desk I got not working (from ebay). Finally I opened it over the weekend and found a blown resistor (R1=68 ohm 2w) on the preregulator board and a few flaky capacitors on some of the boards. It seems to be vintage 1982-1984, It doesn't produce any output voltage or current. The only voltage I measured internally is the test pins on the reference board = 10.000 (fluke 289).It seems to be very difficult to work on this heavy unit without an extender board. Does anybody have some spares so I can make an extender board?I would really appreciate and compensate anybody willing to help meMy chopper board is the newer vintage and all solid state. It was very hard to take the preregulator board out of the connectorHere are some pictures:

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2014, 01:40:14 pm
content: I'd like to thank Dr.Frank for sending me the solid state comparator board, to replace my mechanical chopper based one that died in my 332A.My unit had been working prior to the chopper failure, but it did have some other issues.One was that when I'd bought it (ebay, 'unknown condition') it turned out to be missing the inner chassis top and bottom covers.The 332A case is constructed with three independent layers of electrical shielding:1. Outer metal case and front panel, at mains ground.2. A 'guard' shield layer, brought out to a front panel banana post. This shield is constructed by lining the outer case with PCB fiberglass, with an inner copper layer that is made electrically contiguous via wires soldered between each plane.3. The main internal chassis, which for some reason I don't understand, is connected to the '+' output rather than the minus.The inner chassis is supposed to have top and bottom metal covers, electrostatically shielding the circuit boards from the Guard layer. But some bozo in the instrument's past before it came to me, had lost them.Replacing them had the slight complication that they needed insulating spacers to keep the inner chassis separated from the Guard layer. Also the sheets needed were bigger than any of the scrap aluminium I had lying around.I'd never got around to making replacements.Now I had a new comparator board I decided I should fix up all the other little problems too.Starting with making those shields. That's done now. A bit rough, but should work. For spacers I used some things intended for supporting glass table tops. The side spacers which are present are teflon I think, but I'm not sure if that's really necessary. The inner chassis can be up to 1100V above ground (scary machine to work on!) so maybe those spacers should be ultra low leakage? It remains to be seen if the clear PVC spacers I used are adequate. If not, they'll be easy to replace.While visually checking out the other boards before trying to power it up, I noticed a very singed area on the 'current limiter' PCB, with the component that had overheated now replaced with a wire link. What?!Took me ages to find that in the schematics, since the relationship between schematic sheets and boards is a bit random. Turns out the front panel used to have filament bulbs for the decimal points, but at some stage a mod changed them to LEDs. This burned resistor was the current source for all the bulbs. Now the individual LED current limit resistors are in the wiring loom, hence the wire link on the board.That's where I was up to when distracted by other chores. Still haven't powered it up with the new board.Planning to make an extender board with the spare pins and socket Dr.Frank sent me, before doing more on the unit.Edit to add: Incidentally the messy felt pen writing on the inner chassis is not mine. Perhaps by the guy that lost the covers. It's on the list to clean off and redo neatly.

author: guido
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2014, 04:53:33 pm
content: Quote from: casinada on May 20, 2014, 05:30:42 amI can send you one of Frank's 332B pcb's and a connector if you are willing to pay for the shipment (from europe).Getting the individual pins of the pcb would be your job (was a bit difficult with the pcb i choose, but it might vary).I could cut a part of the pcb to make a smaller package, but i don't think it matters much. Sent me a p.m.The null meter went bad again yesterday. Ah well. Maybe i'll give it another go, but not now.

author: BU508A
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2015, 02:07:16 pm
content: Hello,a few weeks ago I scored a Fluke 3330B on ebay. The seller said, that the switch on thevery left side for selecting the voltage/current does not work in position "8".It turns out, that the switch is working perfectly well but the relay K3 on the A4A10ladder driver no. 1 is hanging. I got the relay out, hooked it up to an external powersupply and after some on/off switching it was working again. Now the 3330B was able againto select all voltages between 0 and 1111.111V. The current mode I did not check yet.Then I set it to 1mV and checked with my 34401A and saw some dancing in the 10µV range.I looked into the schematics and checked the voltage reference board. All voltages stood standstill perfectly, so I checked the following chopper amplifier and differential amplifier.On both boards were several electrolytic caps and one tantalum. I changed them all and thedancing was gone, except for a +/- 1µV (the 3330B was working then for several hours).To me this seems to be pretty good :-)But this brings me to this: while fiddling with the cards in the 3330B I learned,that there is something like an extender or riser board. But those boards seems to bepretty hard to find, so I found this:Quote from: guido on May 17, 2014, 12:11:18 amDoes anybody know what's the name of these golden connectors (brand, name etc.) and probably where to buy?I would like to build a riser board of my own, so that measuring will be much easier.Every hint which may come will be helpful and really appreciated.Thanks a lot.Btw, I found also this very nice website with another 3330B repair attempt:http://www.spurtikus.de/basteln/repair/fluke_3330b/index.htmlThe site is in german but the pictures are really nice.

author: pelule
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2015, 03:03:12 pm
content: I am also searching for that connectors to build my own extender card.Got my Fluke 3330B in March last years for a really low price. I is meanwhile cleaned and now working pretty fine inside the specs after replacing some CAPs.But I still have the plan to "pimp" it on the chopper (reduce short term drift) and reference (reduced long term drift).

author: BU508A
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 05:08:38 am
content: Quote from: pelule on September 20, 2015, 03:03:12 pmAnd how exactly do you want to do this? Just curious .... :-)

author: pelule
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 08:04:52 pm
content: How to do?First check, if it makes sense, analyse the options, the eforts in time & cost, than kill or start the project.That I did.Tool offers DC voltage up to 1111V, DC current up to 111 mA (for burden voltage up to 500V).Design is quite good from the principle, the used precision resistors, the power supply, the pre-regulator solution, the shielding. The Plug-In card design allows a partly "pimping" with acceptable efforts (you do not risk the total system).Just the old style chopper amp and the reference prevent a much better level of precision.A good example you may find at FM, as mentioned by Dr.Frank already.http://www.friedrich-messtechnik.de/index.php/bauanleitungen/87-fluke335-332My Project PlanStep 1: get it to full function / repair - DoneStep 2: measure actual short term drift - Done~12 pmm, thus the chopper replacement is a potential optionStep 3: measure the long term drift - still running~40 ppm/y so far according to 3458A, still inside the spec (6 ppm/month), but a potential option to replacethinking in the LTZ1000A as I have one spare, but LM399H may also an option.Sounds serious, isn't it?

author: BU508A
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 09:09:23 pm
content: Yes it does. What I wanted to know was the technical part, e.g. replacing the reference and or the amplifiers.I saw that link from Dr. Frank but I didn't check it out yet. I was busy in finding out, what these connectors are.I think I will not do that to my Fluke. Even if I would, I can't measure it. I do not have a 3458A or similiar.But, regarding the connectors: I think I hunted them down. They are probably ELCO Varicon Series 5208 from AVX.I found a datasheet here, which is looking quite promising:http://www.avx.com/prodinfo_productdetail.asp?I=622&K=search&C=&word=VariconNow to find a distributor which have them and is willing to sell stuff to private people.

author: pelule
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 10:22:50 pm
content: Arrow Europe is one of their distributors.The gold stripe contacts seem to be the right one, but I could not find the plugs (single row).Seems they are "NO LONGER MANUFACTURED/NO REPLACEMENT".Had the idea to by another 3330B for parts only. One is offered in the US, waiting for response regarding int. shipping.

author: guido
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2015, 12:23:03 am
content: Quote from: pelule on September 21, 2015, 08:04:52 pmI've done just that. See here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-332a-adjustmentverification/msg685631/#msg685631ps, i've replied. You're lucky, i have one spare pcb left.

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2015, 06:05:48 am
content: I got the same unit waiting to be repaired under my desk (3330B) but haven't had the time to get to do it.

author: pelule
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2015, 11:40:14 am
content: QuoteLooking nice and professional. What's your experiance of the improvement?Did you do any change on FM's circuit or just made a nice PCB out of it?Willing to sare the schematic and PCB data?Analog Devices a while ago presented a new generation of zero-drift amplifieres. They shall be able to operate at higher supply voltage and promoted as lower noise. So far just available as dual Version, so could replace LT1150 and LT1001, would not need the 7xL05 anymore. Only negative point, they are not available as DIP.

author: BU508A
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2015, 12:17:31 pm
content: Here are some additional information regarding this ELCO connectors:connectors soldered on the cards:Fluke part number: 187724NSN number: 5935009160845AVX part number: 02-016-013-5-200connectors soldered on the motherboard:Fluke part number: 187732NSN number: 5935-00-628-8750AVX part number: 00-5009-016-153-001I found these parts available atwww.netsemi.combut you have to request a quote.It seems, that these parts in Europe aren't available (anymore, if they were ever).

author: pelule
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2015, 01:18:38 pm
content: QuoteThis page is crap. I did my standard test and asked for stock of "HumptyDumpty)result: HUMPTYDUMPTY is in stock! Enter a quantity below to check pricing.I am waiting for feedback from AVX/Kyocera - if that part is still manufactored & offered (and if, where to buy) or is obsolet (and if, still some NOS existing)

author: pelule
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2015, 02:29:58 pm
content: I got a feedback from the AVX European sales manager.This part is obsolet for some years now. There is no old stock available at AVX.Thus he does not expect, there is some available at the distributors (Arrow, Mouser, Farnell).He recommend to check up for NOS in WWW.

author: BU508A
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2015, 02:34:34 pm
content: Quote from: pelule on September 22, 2015, 01:18:38 pmSeems, that I'm way to naive to this world. :-(I looked also for NOS and surplus sources, but I did not manage to find a real good source. The parts I found were quite expensive so I'm really curious about the response from netsemi, if there will be one.Btw, I found this 3330B on ebay as well. Probably we can share the guts, if the seller is willing to deliver to Germany.Will keep you updated.

author: guido
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2015, 03:25:41 pm
content: I've build this thing because the readings on my DMMs where not stable. After it was done nothing changed much. Turned out that my DMMs where the problemSince then i got another HP3456A which is stable on the 335D. I did not put the old chopper back to compare. The changes to the original schematic are a single non polair cap on the output (the green MUSE cap) and i've added a multiturn pot + resistor for R10. The potmeter lines up with a potmeter on the original pcb, so you can access it easily. Doesn't do much thoughI still need to have a go at the faulty 3456A and a Prema 5000. But the last one now also lost calibration (loose connection with the crappy IC socket on the RAM IC). And the 335D nullmeter still needs fixing. Winter is around the corner and i've got parts now.PS. I'm now out ofPCBs with connectorsof Dr. Frank's 332. Last one just went on the mail.

author: BU508A
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 04:45:52 pm
content: Got the quotes for these connectors. They are a bit pricy ....connectors soldered on the cards:Fluke part number: 187724NSN number: 5935-00-916-0845AVX part number: 02-016-013-5-200Qty: 3Price per unit: 66.67$Total: 200$connectors soldered on the motherboard:Fluke part number: 187732NSN number: 5935-00-628-8750AVX part number: 00-5009-016-153-001Qty: 10Price per unit: 15.99$Total: 159.90$Thanks, but no thanks.

author: pelule
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 06:41:08 pm
content: When I was working for a Japaneese semiconductor supplier, we called such a "Japaneese No".Means, if you do not wan't to say NO, you lift the price to such a height, the potential buyer is not interested anymore.

author: Inverted18650
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2019, 11:59:17 pm
content: I know this is very old but if there is a 332B/AF "capacitor switch board" available, I would love to buy one.

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2019, 03:00:00 am
content: Why not just replace the caps , unless the board is missing.

author: Inverted18650
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2019, 03:43:34 am
content: Quote from: Vgkid on January 31, 2019, 03:00:00 amIts missing. Damn shame too, because the unit cleaned up very nicely and seems to really want to be the right thing.

author: branadic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2020, 04:54:50 pm
content: Kind of old thread, but info about this Klixon oven can be found inUS4084437andUS3414705A. There are two ovens available onebay.-branadic-