hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Philips Digital Signage - Burnt PCB pathway - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: pat.stave
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 07, 2019, 03:34:02 pm
content: I have a Philips BDL5556ET/00 digital signage monitor.The monitor will does not boot or respond to any input. The only sign of life is that the cooling fans will run a quick "self test" after power is applied, then shut off again.The complete service manual with schematics can be found here:http://www.go-gddq.com/upload/2016-02/16022617539243.pdfUpon inspection on the main controller board i have found that the PCB path between C4490/C4491 and VMCU_SEN/FB401 is burnt off. See page 41 of the service manual.What is the likely cause of this? How do i proceed to troubleshoot the root cause?

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2019, 10:32:09 pm
content: Are you sure any copper is missing at all.The track seems to be there and run under the FFC connector to pin 3.It sure does look messy but who still makes neat consumer electronics today?How did the fault show up in the first place?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2019, 09:25:04 am
content: From the amount of flux, that connector looks as if it's been rather messily reworked. Do you know about its history? The track may have been 'lost' or deliberately removed during the rework.

author: CJay
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2019, 10:05:51 am
content: I think I'd give that a good scrub with some flux remover and then take a good look at it with a magnifier

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2019, 05:44:45 pm
content: Hi!This quality of Service Manual takes a great deal of the pain and grief out of repairing realtricant electronics – it really is a beautifully produced document!I've had a look at the picture provided and I'm almost certain that the print isn't actually gone either – just hidden under a load of tacky flux and goo, and a good scrub with flux–cleaner or IPA should be enough to help you see how the rest of the PCB looks!Chris Williams

author: beepl4n
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 09, 2019, 02:00:42 pm
content: Hi,I also agree, first of all clean very well all that area.Now, from what I see here, I think we are not looking in the right place. From the picture it seems the line you think is missing is passing under the capacitors, and from the looks it seems to be all fine with that part of the circuit.Now look at the neighbor CN4108 connector and from there if anything is missing, it was connected to pin6, I followed the schematic and besides a red led… and R747 everything seems to be fine.Fernando P.
PHILIPS FWD390 DVD MINI HI-FI - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: abhi1981
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2022, 07:45:43 pm
content: Hello,My Philips FWD390 DVD mini hi-fi was working perfectly. But a few days ago it stopped responding.I was trying to connect an impedence converter to it, since I wanted to connect it to my Denon amp. Did that fry something?The set was not in use for sometime and I didn't check the set before connecting the impedence converter, so I'm not sure.The display turned on but the the button backlit leds didn't.The display showed the change of functions, but nothing actually happened. The tape was displayed as playing, but actually it was not playing.Now, even the display is not working. When I switch off the power and turn it on - the fan spins and shuts off immediately.When I disconnect the main front panel ribbon cable, then the tape motor starts running nonstop and the dvd tray also starts moving. When I reconnect the cable, everything stops. The backlit leds also glow dimly when the cable is halfway through, then turn off when the cable is fully inserted. This happens even when all the other ribbon cables are disconnected.The tape motor runs even when everything is disconnected, except the wires carrying power to the board and motor.Today I was pressing the buttons randomly, when all of a sudden the display turned on, but with the same problems as before. Then it died again.I have cleaned all the ribbon cables but it didn't help. The service manual for this particular set is not available anywhere. I have uploaded the closest matching manual. Hope it helps.

author: abhi1981
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2022, 07:47:24 pm
content: Here is the service manual. I will upload it in parts due to size limitations.Philips-FWV-320-Service-Manual.pdf(2099.35 kB - downloaded 126 times.)Philips-FWV-320-Service-Manual (1) (1).pdf(2401.22 kB - downloaded 39 times.)

author: abhi1981
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2022, 07:50:53 pm
content: Remaining partsPhilips-FWV-320-Service-Manual (1) (1) (1).pdf(2264.63 kB - downloaded 51 times.)Philips-FWV-320-Service-Manual (1).pdf(982.51 kB - downloaded 37 times.)

author: abhi1981
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2022, 01:57:16 pm
content: Solved part of the problem.Resistor no. 4430 (value 000) was showing high resistance instead of a short. It's solder had deformed too, might have overheated. I shorted it by soldering a small piece of wire.Now, except the display, everything else is working.Actually, the left quarter of the display is working, but the glow is so faint that in normal light it is not noticeable. When I press the DSC button, then the various sound modes are flashing on the display.The below image was taken in the dark.

author: abhi1981
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 04:31:24 pm
content: Fixed the display.It was a blown transistor.
Philips "Implotec" SOD-87 Diode Markings? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2020, 05:50:52 pm
content: Hi!I have a PCB to repair with a very large number of the glass SOD-87 (MELF) diodes (black appearance, NOT red or colour-band marked) with white numbers round them to denote the cathode, these are marked:-"1" with a forward drop of about 0.6V;"7" with a forward drop of about 0.48V;"9" with a forward drop of about 0.17VI know they're Philip's "Implotec" package as all the data-sheets show a load of "X" markings in the same places, but not one of the datasheets for the types I can find actually says what the marked number means!Anybody familiar with these who can offer a clue?Chris Williams
Philips ledtv backlight makes PSU reboot. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Tony.T
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2022, 10:25:57 pm
content: Everytime i connect the backlight connector to the PSU the backlight lights up very much and then PSU reboots. i put a clampmeter around one of the led+ leads and can see 300mA consumption before it reboots.Tested a powersupply with 24 volts over 32 backlight leds (8columns *4 rows...wired as 2 pairs ... but connected together on the circuitboard on PSU) and at 24 volts it stopped at 666mA.WAAYY to much....When i test each backligt led one by one it has 2.5V voltage drop and takes 30mAALL the leds are working and have same voltage drop and takes 30mA.it does not make any sense to me....??!!!So when connected together in PSU...it seems like shortcut and stops PSU. each led seems ok. When connectig led tester on the connector directly that is normally plugged into the PSU...same readings and every led is lit up.Any ideas?

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2022, 04:32:40 am
content: As the forward voltage of the LEDs drops with temperature, they need to be driven with current control rather than voltage.Or at least with a current limiting resistor.Check the LED control circuit on the power supply board, additionally you can do a test with a series resistor.

author: Tony.T
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2022, 09:58:26 am
content: Tested the PSU directly to the leds and turned the psu on by setting 3.2V to ps_on and backlight_on from other powersupply. the leds turned on.As soon I connect the motherbord to PSU and let the motherboard turn on the leds the PSU reboots.Without leds connected.... the tv turns on and motherboard works and i get logo on display (without backlight). As soon i connect the backlight connector the psu starts to reboot.it MUST be that the PSU goes into overcurrent protection when both motherboard and backlight is connected at the same time.i had to replace the mosfet on the PSU. also the fuse was blown. wonder if something more is broken on PSU. .. it can drive only motherboard....or only leds without shutting down...but not both at the same time...PSU is TPV 715G8620-P01can someone point out which part is involved in overcurrent protection?

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2022, 10:58:15 am
content: Check the electrolytics, maybe there is too much ripple somewhere

author: bateau020
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2022, 12:31:17 pm
content: Which mosfet did you replace? Q9101 (probably) or Q9105? (unlikely to be Q9403). Often other components blow around the mosfet, like U9101, various (zener) diodes and some of the high voltage caps.edit: service manual attached, just in case you don't have it.

author: Tony.T
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2022, 01:09:23 pm
content: The mosfet Q9801 on the hot side was blown. Nothing else.
Philips LFH710 transcription machine: service manual wanted - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Bill Woodbridge
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2023, 02:27:05 pm
content: Has anyone ever seen a service manual or schematics for the Philips LFH710 please, or similar? It's a mini cassette transcription machine for (typically) audio typing work. There was also a slightly enhanced LFH720 model, and maybe more.The closest I've got to it is the LFH9750 service manual, which is a solid-state machine made with the same look and feel of the old mini cassette units (so as not to frighten the traditionalists).Many thanks if anyone can provide a lead ...
Philips MCM2300 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Ero-Shan
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2025, 01:04:13 pm
content: I got a Philips MCM2300 micro stereo system for repair. "After some time (about 15 minutes), the device starts making horrible noises through the loadspeakers. Kinda loud pumping, screeching."Of course, having it sitting on my bench and watching several signals with the oscilloscope, it worked for hours without acting up. Finally, today, it went off. The 'scope showed that the noise came from the audio processor PT7314E. It's supply voltage was only about 2 volts instead of the intended 9 volts. Looking further, EQ_VCC showed about 8 volts. Now, where do they come from? They are switched on by Q309 from AMP_VCC (17 volts, they where fine). But the schematics make no sense, and actually, the emitter and collector of Q309areswapped on the circuit board. The PT7314E is supposed to draw about 30 to 40 mA, so the current draw was definitely not exceptional. Q309's base-emitter voltage looked okay, Q308's collector was at about 30 mV. Changing Q309 didn't help. I then left off Q309 and supplied EQ_VCC with my bench power supply. Everything worked fine at 17 volts, and when I dropped the voltage to 8 volts or less, the PT7314E started to act up. The current draw was still fine.Looking closer at the schematic, R342 somehow irritated me: 1 kΩ at about 16 V makes 16 mA. 16 mA base current for 40 mA collector current? Did they expect Q309 had a gain of just 2.5? Better still: R342 is a 0201 chip resistor. And yes, it did look cooked. After a little messing around, I ended up replacing it with a 10 kΩ MELF soldered to the collector of Q308 and with a bit of wire to Q309's base. That helped bring up EQ_VCC to almost 17 volts, but VCC of the PT7314E did not rise above 8.5 volts, but that's okay. ZD5 might be there just as a safety measure.Who developed this circuit? But then, the main board's silk screen says "MIAN BOARD", which fits. I always had a soft spot for Philips, but this is disheartening.Ero-Shan
Philips oscilloscope pm-2332 strange issue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: aluqard89
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2024, 04:43:57 pm
content: Hey!I have a Philips oscilloscope (PM-2332) that's having an issue with the probe adjustment signal (calibration signal). When I try to probe it on the front of the scope, nothing shows up. However, if I use another oscilloscope to probe it, the signal appears.What's strange is that the signal frequency changes according to the sweep rate of the Philips scope when I adjust the time base.Does anyone have an idea of what the fault might be?I've uploaded part of the schematic where the signal originates, and I've marked it with a red circle.
Philips PM 2811 in Remote mode. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Heli
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 11, 2024, 08:41:37 pm
content: My Philips PM 2811 is in Remote mode. I don't use the GPIB interface. How can I use the Power supply in Local mode.This is what the manual say's:Before starting with this tutorial, make sure the power supply is in the local state. If the supply is in the remote state( REM is displayed),press LCL .If the REM text does not disappear, the LCL key is disabled remotely by the Local Lockout (LLO) command from the GPIB controller.I have no REM text Displayed and the LCL key is not working, what can I do?

author: eurgenca
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2024, 06:33:21 am
content: If you do not have displayed "REM" text, than PS is not in remote mode.

author: Jason Henry
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2024, 07:57:07 am
content: If the LCL key is not working and there's no REM text displayed, check if there's any external control or communication preventing local mode. Verify for any remote commands or settings, and consult the manual for troubleshooting steps.

author: Heli
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 12, 2024, 03:14:24 pm
content: I can not give external commands because there is no GPIB. So communication is not possible.Can not find troubleshooting steps in the manual. May be Factory reset is that possible?
Philips PM 5132 : try to repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jeannot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 31, 2023, 05:46:06 pm
content: Hi,I was given a Philips PM 5132 (function generator) as it was not working anymore. I would like to repair it.First thing I did was connecting the output to my scope. The trace is flat, quite noisy and its behavior does not change with any button press or pot turns. I tried all the different wave shapes, frequencies and amplitude but it did not change the output. See picture for the trace on scope.By chance I found the service manual online. See herehttps://elektrotanya.com/philips_pm5132_sm.pdf/download.html. The schematics are on the pages 40 and 41.I thus opened up the device and measured the power rails voltages. The supply section is working as it produces the +/- 22VDC.Next step was to check the main oscillator. I measured the "alpha" point (between resistors 702 and 703) with my scope. The oscillator seems to be mostly working as there is an oscillation. However, I don't think the oscillation should look like this. If we take a look at the block diagram on page 36, the main oscillator section should output a triangular signal or a square one. Moreover, the oscillation is not perfectly periodic as we can see on the picture.Do you know what could cause this? Am I wrong on the expected output of this main oscillator ?An interessant thing is that this main oscillator behavior is different based on the state of the "duty cycle" button.Last, the TTL output seems to be working according as it produces the same oscillation in the range 0->5V (on the picture, yellow is main oscillator and blue is TTL output). So i think the problem hides between the "controlled current source" and "main oscillator".Thanks for you help!

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2023, 07:18:14 pm
content: I haven't looked at service manual yet.Is the +/- 22V the only supply? If not check the others too.One of my main concerns considering age would be switch contacts.Does this use Philips blue axial electrolytics? They're ofen way past their time...

author: jeannot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 31, 2023, 07:57:35 pm
content: yep there is only one supply.but without actuating any switch, the main oscillator should produce a stable signal. I will take a look at the switch contacts.there are indeed blue cylindrical electrolytics, I will check them.
Philips PM 5716 Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2019, 10:10:34 pm
content: Here is a 3 part series for repairs to a Philips PM5716, I even have the hard to find service manual and circuits diagrams for this unit now thanks to 2 generous supporters of my channel, so I have those and a set of high resolution photos up on my Patreon page if you need them.Part 1:Part 2:Part 3:
Philips PM-5770 service manual - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: strawberry
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2021, 06:18:41 pm
content: shematic or service manual?

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2021, 07:05:05 pm
content: https://elektrotanya.com/philips_pm5771_100mhz_pulse_generator_1973_sm.pdf/download.htmlshould be similar ? or some references ??or a possible purchasehttps://www.surplussales.com//Manuals/man_philips.htmlor register herehttps://www.yumpu.com/da/document/view/29582844/100-mhz-pulse-generator-pm-5770-helmut-singer-elektronik
Philips PM2421 chopper amp schematics - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: RikV
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2024, 02:02:47 pm
content: I acquired two Philips PM2421 DMM's. As far as specs are concerned these are poor (max 1299 counts,mlax voltage range 300V DC/AC). But they have a nixie display and are of a nice construction. Anyway, i'd like to fix them.Documentation is not hard to find but as often is the case: there are different versions of the aparatus! the ones I have are PM2421-08 and PM2421-41, whatever that means. Unfotunately all manuals on the www that are readable concern version PM2421-01! I found one correct manual (manualsLib.com) but élas!! schematics are blurred to the extent of being unusable.Is there anyone out there having a manual (PDF) that is usable? The references on the one I have are:9447 024 21..1, 9499 470 09301, 741115/08/09/41.Side note: is there any logic behind the numbering scheme used by Philips?
Philips PM2518 service manual wanted - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jaromir
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 24, 2019, 03:50:41 pm
content: Hello,I got my hands on one Philips PM2518 that needs a bit of repair and maintenance. Unfortunately, I can't find any service manual. I found nice manuals for PM2517 and PM2518, both having 100+ pages with schematics and a lot of details, unfortunately my google-fu is completely failing for PM2518. All I can find is a few pages long leaflet.Please, is there anybody having manual for 2518 in electronic form or paper manual and is willing to scan a few pages containing schematics?
Philips PM2528 calibration - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: SergeDr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 14, 2021, 11:22:15 am
content: Hello,I have some issues with a philips PM2528 dmm I picked up a while ago.So far it appears to be functional but it requires calibration: on the dc ranges it is about 200 microvolt off.Does someone have experience with this DMM?Lots of trimmers, VERY tempting ...Thanks!
Philips PM3050 reapair help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: chorazy3
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 25, 2020, 09:05:43 am
content: Recently acquired this Philips/Fluke PM3050 60 MHz scope. Unfortunately there is a problem with displaying. Displayed waveform is getting weaker from left to right where it tends to disappear. This problem is worse with lower frequencies, like <10kHz and when using timebase of more than 50us. It is almost not seen with freq of MHz whereas those of Hz range can barely be seen. Attached some pictures. What could be the reason of this ? Replaced allmost all electrolytic caps on all boards but it didn't help (only left those 4 latrgest can elcos in PSU board). Central spot does appears for a less than second when pressing xdefl mod then it disappears.Strange thing is that problem disappears when feeding both channels from generator and switching to chop Mode.

author: chorazy3
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 03, 2020, 10:54:44 am
content: Running out of ideas guys (not an electronic). Replacing last four caps on psu board didn't help. Also replacing opto-coupler (CNX35=CNY17-1) on psu board didn't help. Checked diodes and they are ok. Also outgoing voltages going from psu to xyz amplfier, which is located on top of the crt, are ok. So i think there's no problem with psu or crt. Didn't check high voltage lines going from psu though.This model is similar to PM3055 but it lacks DTB function.Some pictures and SM from a previous thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/philips-pm3055-repair-and-teardown/I am starting to think that there might be sth wrong with timebase board unit. In the SM there is an explanation about different blanking for chop mode and for lower sweep speeds:

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2020, 02:20:37 pm
content: Always rule out power supply problems first.ALWAYS.

author: didier7854
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 08, 2020, 07:49:01 am
content: Hello everybody.First sorry foy my poor english.Thank you for this very interesting site.I just got a Philips PM3050 oscilloscope from a friend. This device has not worked for a long time and has been improperly stored. Upon powering up the 0.22uF capacitor at the input of the power supply exploded with an unpleasant odor.I repair the power supply with the change of some capacitors. When not connected to other pcbs, the power supply provides the correct voltages on the X6003 connector. By reconnecting all pcbs, nothing lights up. After various tests, by disconnecting the flat connector X1009 from the "pcb attenuator", the device switches on normally with the control screen as well as the heating of the tube. The attenuator would therefore be the problem, maybe an excessive load on the supply? If you have any ideas or encountered this kind of problem it would help me because I am a little lost. Thank you so much. Didier

author: alolkema
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 02:30:38 pm
content: Hi chorazy3, Have you ever found the issue? I am encountering the same issue, but on a pm3375 after recapping the whole scope.Thank you in advance !!
Philips PM3055 obsolete EHT replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: gkmaia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2020, 07:17:09 am
content: I got a PM3055 with a faulty EHT.ERO BG 2000-641-505 if the part number.I can find lots of 2000-641 on ebay, but nothing ending with 505.Also could not find any datasheet to compare them.Anyone out there with some experience on these that could help me find a an equivalent replacement?

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2020, 11:34:05 pm
content: No experience with the peculiar model, as long as you have the same internals it should do the job.Looking through photos I'd bet that the internals are a ll the same as long as you have BG 2000-641 then the last 3 digits define how many wires vs. solder lugs you get, HV wire length, anode connection type...At the worst check the service manual, if it doesn't give you the number of stages in the multiplier straight-out you should be able to calculate from the given voltages.

author: gkmaia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2020, 08:08:36 am
content: Quote from: shakalnokturn on August 07, 2020, 11:34:05 pmThanks for you reply. super helpful. I do have the schematics and it shows the HV output voltage. But it does not show the input voltage on that particular winding.

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2020, 08:42:09 am
content: At least if the transformer is still working you can measure the output, knock a suitable resistive divider together first.Considering the HV winding's intermediate tap gives -2.1kV I'd expect the full winding to output something between 2.5 and 3kV amplitude.
Philips PM3055 Scope, spare parts i.e. potentiometer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Batucada
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 10:36:32 pm
content: Hello,i stumbled across this forum because my X2-cap from RIFA exploded on the PSU. Okay, case solved. Unfortunately I destroyed a potentiometer of the front control unit in the past. Now I am looking for it. According to the service documents it is a potentiometer with 10 kOhm and the part number 532210130546. Does anyone have any idea who you could contact? Google hasn't come up with a solution. I have already contacted Fred Schneider, unfortunately without success.Batucada

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 12:03:30 am
content: You wont love the answer, maybe buy a defective scope to salvage this part you need ?

author: EHT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 09:21:02 pm
content: https://www.qservice.tv/

author: Batucada
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 06:39:41 pm
content: I have found original potentiometers, two of them are currently in an electronics shop in Thessaloniki. But with the unit price including the shipping costs I wanted to look for another solution. I also found such a solution. After I desoldered the defective potentiometer, it was not difficult to open the potentiometer. To be exact, I didn't even open the potentiometer tar, but only detached the drive housing from the actual potentiometer. The potentiometer is in an excellent condition, only the actuating shaft, which is only loosely plugged into the potentiometer, is broken. I have a friend of mine who is going to make me some axes out of aluminium, then it will be some work to file the parts with a file. But that will give a permanent solution. I will take pictures when the time comes.Batucada

author: cheeseit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2020, 11:17:20 pm
content: Not sure if this is of any help but I once fixed a broken shaft like this: cut a notch in the broken shaft and in a salvaged shaft from a garbage pot, filed and fit them both to make the joint smooth. Joined them with epoxy, drilled a hole through the joint and inserted a rivet that I then filed flush. Last I cut the new shaft to length.

author: Batucada
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 09, 2020, 07:16:45 am
content: Nice idea. I still have the broken-off part. And I had a similar idea at first, but I threw it out. Because my thought was wrong: I wanted to drill both parts separately and then put them together! That would not have worked well. But since both of my remaining parts fit well together, your idea is a really good one. Thanks for the hint.Batacuda
Philips PM3065 Scope Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: C-47
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2022, 07:19:39 am
content: After several years of occasional use the scope failed to power up, usual tracing indicated a problem after the input X2 filter caps, which were replaced and the 10v rail test point, after much searching one of the input rectification diodes was found radially cracked when de-soldered, it just fell apart, anyway replaced all 4 and powered up, then the LCD screen backlight didn't work, so removed the complete selector panel, fortunately only 2 screws retaining, bulb was blown. The part E8001 is listed as MGG 9012 at 12v 60ma, scarce, but Jaycar a local supplier had a 12v 100ma LED that was 3.1mm diameter compared to the original at 2mm, so opened out the slot on the light pipe from 2.5mm to 3.3mm and it fitted nicely for length, but the wires were radial compared to the original axial setup, so carefully drilled another 1.3mm hole on one end to take the second lead. The LCD panel had to be carefully removed by bending the 12 surround retaining clips to separate it from the circuit board so as to completely remove the light tube so no contamination got between it and the screen during fettling.Powered up and all good, brightness appears about what was original, but time will tell if that's the case.The original bulb is an axial element over about 14mm long and the LED is more of a spot, so had considered putting some deflection tape across the the back / top part of the light tube, but this appears not to be required. Trust the photos will provide a little more info. Alan.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2022, 07:00:49 pm
content: Replacing 60mA with a 100mA might blow up something.

author: C-47
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2022, 09:05:43 pm
content: Thanks, that could be correct, but limited options in that for factor, I suppose I'll have to wait and see. I searched for a direct replacement but nothing showed up, are there any possible leads.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2022, 10:31:25 pm
content: Should be fine. Philips we’re very conservative with their engineering.(Apart from plastics which are all shit)Btw great job. Alway wanted one of those scopes.

author: C-47
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2022, 12:42:12 am
content: Thanks, agree on the plastic quality and the "snap" type plastic hold down / retainers.
Philips PM3208 CRO Intensity problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: kermito
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 05, 2021, 02:57:37 pm
content: First post, but long-time lurker, so thanks for the all the valuable information I've found here before.I'm an electronics hobbyist, mostly into audio/recording studio stuff.I'm trying to revive and clean up a Philips PM3208 scope and I'm at the point where everything works but I have a weird (to me) problem. When I turn the intensity up, the trace expands horizontally and is compressed vertically. See the two pics below: only difference is intensity setting. I've tried to adjust and calibrate everything, but to my limited knowledge, the intensity control is just not supposed to do that, so no wonder that didn't solve anything.All power rails measure within spec (I cannot measure the HT), everything else works as it is supposed to. I realize this scope is of little value (and it was free to me), but I want to understand what's going on. I have schematics and service manual. Does anyone have a clue what might cause this? I can't seem to find any clues online as to this particular problem.

author: kermito
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 12, 2021, 02:27:13 pm
content: I'm gonna try one more time. I've got this scope sort of working with mostly cleaning and changing a few components. My guess is my problem is either the CRT itself or its associated circuitry, both of which I'm not really familiar with.What works:Almost everything. Power supply rails are within spec. Knobs, switches & trimpots do what they're supposed; only exception described below.The problem:Turning up the intensity compresses the trace vertically and stretches it out horizontally (see pics in post 1). This is in both channels, in any setting (v/div and time/div), and with any signal at the input.Since my first post, I have found out that the display is also distorted, best visible at the top and bottom edges of the screen. This happens to any signal, at any settings, and when I move it around, the distortion is worst at the top and the bottom of the display, i.e., this is not distortion on/of the signal, because whatever part of it I move to the middle of the screen looks fine). Pics show a signal applied to, only change is the volts/div.My question:My main question is whether I am looking at a CRT with problems (which I'm starting to think now) or if these could be the symptoms of a problem in the circuit driving the tube.
Philips PM3226P really wierd deflection error - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 03:36:24 pm
content: you got to see this pictureinput is a sineOMG.. prev owners poked round in both deflection amplifiers quite a lot

author: BILLPOD
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 07:18:34 pm
content: Good Morning Tom, looks like you have your work cut out for you. Maybe you could make a video of how you solved these problems. I know I would watch it. Good luck

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 08:58:12 pm
content: i sure got my hands full here,funny to see cascaded tiny transistors in the deflection amps

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 08:20:45 pm
content: here the schematics of the deflection ampsis it possible to make it more complicated ha ha

author: ondraN
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2025, 08:39:44 am
content: This looks like the CRT shield is magnetized. I would try removing the CRT from the shield and see if the image is still distorted.

author: madao
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2025, 02:09:04 pm
content: Or oscilloscope was falling down and deflection plate is not at their position anymore..My Tektronix 575 was trowing to scrap too hard, -> very similar result with distortion in pictures.I have replaced CRT. This has solves issuses.

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2025, 11:30:19 am
content: I FOUND IT !!CRT not magnetic,BUT deflection plates are not at correct positions inside the CRT !!what a crasy error, funny to see previous owners been poking arround the deflection amplifiers so much they created a lot of new problems too,so now i need to give up, what a shame since it is a really cute nice compact scope i really love its size and features..what a sad day

author: ondraN
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2025, 12:01:19 pm
content: Dont give up!https://www.ebay.com/itm/396733723710?_skw=oscilloscope+pm3226&itmmeta=01K1B0Q75R4E8YMTBA17BT9C8M&hash=item5c5f2c343e:g:l-oAAOSwPhBoSl7f&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fquOHJI%2F%2BL2%2BeKcbJynfgdIf%2BbfWAwgap%2FOzw4xyBDf6l9AH6ZPhwV0S2lBPOpEJZSnNiD2mmzCDVtRan7s0V3g0C%2BXFD9afYQ4nxngPpNtmmly0BBzanzDURRIyam%2Fx9tha6tMEE7CitkxEqzrEe184xsSFKHokycVUoXT0JtxklMdoftLJR%2BTcRKvQDJyZydUXAQ5L6hm2e2Tvpmxf7ktoOZ5KjtnZdnDsOPdVpCLN7io%2FiXldb6RbohNY1n5nk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4Dz3OCKZgThis will be cheaper than the CRT itself. I have bought several wrecks for parts from this seller and can recommend him.

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2025, 06:10:03 am
content: thanks a lot for the link wow that was cheap.i have made a little video about this scopethe CRT problem is also shownhttps://youtu.be/AXxpPZ7mWUY
Philips PM3295 Scope  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lacera
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 28, 2021, 01:06:06 am
content: I am restoring this Philips PM3295 scope and attempting to remove the front knobs. Can someone tell me how to get them off? Do they screw off or pull. No set screw. I was able to pull off one of the plastic knob and underneath was a knurled sleeve with notches across the top. I have tried using the slots to screw it off with no luck. Getting it off was very hard which seem to indicate a different way was required.Advice would be appreciated.

author: tunk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2021, 11:03:08 am
content: I've seen knobs where the front was a separate moulding hiding a nut.

author: sarahMCML
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2021, 02:47:24 am
content: You need to remove the front cover from each knob to reveal either a screw, under the small knobs, or a nut under the larger ones.If you don't already have it, download the service manual from electrotanya.com.Regards,Sarah.
Philips PM3394 startup failure - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Biscayne
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 15, 2022, 04:33:21 pm
content: Hi all,this seems to be the place to visit for experience with the PM3394 so I hope someone can help.The problem is that on power up all seems well for about 2 seconds, then there are 2 beeps from within the 'scope, the fan slows to a slow speed and the graticule illumination drops to 'very dim'. None of the controls 'click' when rotated as they did when the scope was working The 'ARM'D' led is on but there is no sign of the trace on the CRT.I have looked through section 8 of the manual but have not found anything that describes this fault. I have removed the board with the UHT psu and checked for signs of overheating and swollen capacitors but nothing obvious.Next step will be to check all the voltages according to the manual but I was wondering if the '2 beeps' might be a clue to where to look.I also note that there is an RS232 port on the back of the scope and wondered if any diagnostic information may be available there.Any help will be much appreciated as I would hate to have to replace what has been an invaluable tool.Rating plate details: 9444 033 94024, No DM754028
Philips pm3540 / 3543 schematics needed - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: gkmaia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2019, 05:58:49 am
content: I just got a faulty PM3543 and could not find schematics for it anywhere, even for buying.Any good soul out there with one in hands to share?

author: orbanp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2019, 12:42:47 pm
content: This place seems to have the manual for sale, just search for "3543" in the page:http://www.jetecnet.com/index.htmlRegards, Peter

author: gkmaia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2019, 01:40:03 am
content: thanks mate!!!

author: gkmaia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2019, 06:47:16 pm
content: Luckily the scope arrived with a printed service manual.I scanned it and uploaded a copy to elektrotanya.https://elektrotanya.com/philips_pm3542_pm3543_service_manual.pdf/download.html

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2019, 08:23:02 pm
content: Hi!Thank you for the upload!However, there's still the Mechanical Parts Lists and the PCB Layout Diagrams & Circuit Diagrams missing from about pages 165 to 182 missing – will you be scanning these or were they missing from the Manual you received with the Oscilloscope?Chris Williams

author: gkmaia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2019, 08:55:55 pm
content: Its done. Just uploaded a new version.

author: RogerRabbit
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 30, 2023, 12:40:35 am
content: Are you able to help with a schematic for a Philips PM3543 logic analyser pcb please? I can't find it in your Electrotanya postingRegards, RogerRabbit

author: George Edmonds
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2023, 12:54:46 am
content: HiTry this linkhttps://ia802307.us.archive.org/18/items/manual_PM3543_SM_PHILIPS_EN/PM3543_SM_PHILIPS_EN_text.pdfG Edmonds

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2023, 04:20:18 am
content: Can anybody who's got a paper copy of the original PM3543 service manual re–scan the PCB layout diagrams please, preferably in colour if the originals were?The ones on the Internet Archive upload have been scanned so badly it's totally impossible to read the component reference numbers on the layout drawings!The circuit diagrams are all legible, it's only the PCB layouts want redoing!Chris Williams

author: George Edmonds
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2023, 05:05:51 am
content: HiTry looking at this scan, I can read all component layoutshttps://ia802307.us.archive.org/18/items/manual_PM3543_SM_PHILIPS_EN/PM3543_SM_PHILIPS_EN.pdfG Edmonds

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2023, 05:20:31 am
content: That 45MB one is far better, the one with the unreadable diagrams was only 11 MB in size!Chris Williams
Philips pm3543 5v rail sucking lots of power - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: gkmaia
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2020, 12:01:49 am
content: The oscilloscope and logic analyser are both functional.The problems are- The 5v rail of the analyser is taking around 1.7Amps.- The 5v rail when disconnected has no ripple. But when re-connected to the analyser board a ripple becomes present.- There is a loud transformer buzz that goes away when I disconnect the analyser board from the 5v rail.- When turned on for the first time the logic analyser display if dislodged to the bottom of the CRT. If I shut if off and turn on fast the analyser display goes back to its correct vertical location within the CRT.Although the high power usage and transformer buzz the logic analyser is completely functional.I haven't added images or schematics but happy to do so if anyone wants to help.Just let me know what you need to see and I can upload it here.

author: RogerRabbit
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 30, 2023, 12:28:42 am
content: Hi there gkmaia,I have a PM3543 that has a working oscilloscope and a non working logic analyser pcb. I would really appreciate your help with a schematic for the logic analyse pcb if you have one.Regards,RogerRabbit
Philips PM5108 function generator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: PolarisAT
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2022, 08:25:45 am
content: Hi!I got a Philips PM 5108 signal generator on a yard sale a few years back. It had a faulty TTL output stage that I could repair quite easily and it worked flawlessly ever since.But lately the missing dial is bothering me. I plan to replace the missing dial and give the whole unit an overhaul.Problem is that i don't have any kind of documentation for it. No manual, no service manual, no specifications what so ever.Does anyone have the user manual and service manual for this device?I would appreciate your help!Cheers!

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2022, 11:23:42 am
content: The design is very similar to an old PM 5131 I have and here is yours:https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/philips_function_generator_pm5108.htmlSome further info here:https://www.circuitsonline.net/forum/view/146642

author: PolarisAT
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2022, 12:59:42 pm
content: That's true, they look a bit similar.This is a link to the manual for the PM5131.https://www.opweb.de/deutsch/firma/Philips/PM_5131The dutch page you linked leads to another page that has no further information for PM5108. But at least they confirm that the 5107 and 5108 are not comparable. For what it's worth.
Philips PT860 shaver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Losreelos
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 28, 2023, 07:09:23 pm
content: Hi everyoneI have the Philips PT860,I can't find out the characteristics of this component, the CDW 51, to replace.Regards

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2023, 09:31:41 pm
content: It doesn't seem right because I don't see this marking in TI's datasheet ...Texas Instruments TL431ACDBZR:https://fixpart.co.uk/en/product/view/0005469718It may help to identify the other SOT23 components. This may gave us an idea as to the manufacturer.
Philips TV model 32pfk4100 "CIPlus key" message - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: RetiredElectronicus
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 15, 2024, 06:13:10 pm
content: Hi,I have a LED TV Phillips 32pfk4100 and after connecting a "Switch" game console to the TV, there is constantly the message "CI+Key" on top of the screen.I found some advise on the internet that says to switch off the DDR check in but this did not help.The tv channels are also not keeped in memory of the TV...I installed the latest software from Philips to that TV.Any other advise to repair this problem?Thanks
Very strange fault of Philips TV SMPS - 715G3812-P02-H20-003U PSU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Sercan
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2022, 11:39:59 pm
content: Hi Folk,I have a faulty Philips TV SMPS and this PSU is very difficult for repairing (for me ofcouse). PSU is not work for every time but some times is working correctly or just working. After all testing I am not sure working condition. But, when TV opened had been working normally.First of all, electronic is hobby for me. I can handle easy problems but this situation is hard for me. I am just learning. I have isolation transformer, Rigol DL3021 DC load, Siglent SDS1104X oscilloscope, multimeter and termal camera for testing.PSU output is S/B, 5V, 12V, 24V. 12V and 24V are not active in standby state. For full working conditions, I did connect 1K resistor S/B to 5V and load 5V with rheostat. At first PSU is working correctly with all outputs.But after 25 seconds, power LED on PSU is blinking then after this, around 10 seconds its completely off. I tested it many times, it takes 25 seconds each time...First I set DC load 0.5A between 2.5A and connect it to 12V. It was still working normally even after the LED light was off.After 12V test, I set 0.3A for 24V. Then after LED light was off I saw that the voltage collapsed to around 11.5V. In this process, the IC901's feedback signal shifts from 40 Hz to 20 Hz.I am not sure is normal but IC905 is 65-70 degrees celsius on working and I guess is normal. Except this there is no visual problem or thermal issue.Also I tested all filter capacitors with cheap ESR meter. All in good condition.My guess is that works normally until some capacitor charges, then it becomes unstable. But I don't know.I hope, I did tell my problem correctly. What is the problem and how can I solve this problem?