Please help me replace this pinball motor. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: G35R6
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 02:03:36 am
content: Hi all. Hope I'm in the right place. I have a pinball machine (Spirit - Gottlieb 1982) that has a motor in the backbox that constantly rotates a plastic disk. The problem is that this motor is very noisy and I'd like to replace it with something new and quiet. When all is said and done, it needs to spin at about 2-3 RPM.Here's a video of it working.https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Jmo4byChM8cI was directed to follow a motor replacement guide for a similar game called Black Hole.https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Black_Hole#Replacing_the_Black_Hole_%22Spinning_Disk%22_MotorI bought the listed motor assuming that my game was supplying the same 5V to the motor as the Black Hole does.https://www.servocity.com/3-rpm-gear-motor/This is a picture of the original motor.https://www.flickr.com/photos/203423882@N06/54749307311/in/dateposted-public/I soldered the leads on and turned on the game. The motor worked very sporadically, began smoking, then died.At that point I checked my schematics and saw that my game actually supplies 28V to that motor, not 5V.https://www.flickr.com/photos/203423882@N06/54749516488/in/dateposted-public/I bought another one of the same motors because it says it should work with a voltage from 3-12V.When I checked the machine voltage output, sure enough, it was close to 29V.There's got to be a way to lower the voltage to be able to use this motor and have it constantly rotate at 2-3 RPMs.If not, can anyone here direct me to a motor that will? If I can find one that works, I'm sure I'll be able to rig it up in the game.The bigger challenge here is explaining to me what exactly I'd need to do and buy as if I were a five year old child. I'm pretty electronically illiterate, though, what I lack in knowledge, I make up for in ambition. I just don't want to fry the boards in this game.Thanks in advance.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 02:11:38 am
content: You replaced a ~24VAC motor with a 5VDC one, that's obviously not going to work.The old motor likely just needs a bit of cleaning and lubrication. It's a simple shaded pole type, and those are usually very reliable.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 03:31:11 am
content: I second that emotion.And be sure to put some grease (any kind of lubricating grease, doesn't matter) on the gears, which should reduce the noise.

author: ME
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 11:32:48 am
content: can you use a microwave platter motor and run it using a 120/24v transformer wired backwards?.

author: G35R6
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 12:53:25 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on August 28, 2025, 02:11:38 amThanks for the response. Like I mentioned in my initial post - I have very little knowledge in this subject - so, "24VAC motor with a 5VDC one" doesn't really mean anything to me.The current motor in there was sent to a guy who "rebuilds" them. It came back just as noisy as when I sent it. When I reached out to the pinball community, everyone else with this game said their motors were just as noisy. But, there has to be newer replacement motor that's way quieter that I can rig/mount - I just can't find one that is electronically compatible since I don't know much about electronics.Will a microwave motor work? Again, no idea since I don't know much about electronics.Somehow the motor I bought has been used in a different game that supplies 5V.https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Black_Hole#Replacing_the_Black_Hole_%22Spinning_Disk%22_MotorI just don't know how to cut my 28V down to the 5V.Thanks.

author: BILLPOD
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 01:23:30 pm
content: Good MorningG35R6, Cell phone chargers supply 5 VDC, but you've got to get an adapter to break out the voltage from the USB connector. Here's a site, with step-by-step instructions, that should help. They mention that you are limited to 0.500 amps, but most phone chargers can handle much more than that.Good luck

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 01:35:01 pm
content: Quote from: G35R6 on August 28, 2025, 12:53:25 pmYou have 28VAC not DC and thus you will need to rectify and filter to make DC then a buck converter.

author: jh15
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 01:51:14 pm
content: Retired now, but in my pinball repair days, I used Pinball Resource for supplies. never a problem with them.Noisy? What about all the bells and knockers?They also used to sell "flaming Balls" Hot Sauce, but no longer available.

author: G35R6
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 02:21:25 pm
content: Pinball Resource is exactly who "refurbished" this motor!This motor though is way too noisy to leave on in a home game room.https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Jmo4byChM8cThere just has to be a way to wire in a modern quieter motor.And there is.https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Black_Hole#Replacing_the_Black_Hole_%22Spinning_Disk%22_MotorI just don't know how to do it with the 28V I have in the game.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 03:24:04 pm
content: Quoteloads of ways,possible the simplest would be a lm317 kit,there all over ebay for a fewquidbucks, for examplehttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162870708650

author: jh15
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 03:37:39 pm
content: plus stuff to rectify the AC

author: jh15
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 03:39:32 pm
content: A way to be really quiet is to get a video arcade machine and unplug the speaker.

author: G35R6
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 03:57:37 pm
content: Quote from: themadhippy on August 28, 2025, 03:24:04 pmI was looking at those on Amazon - already built of course.But I had no idea which one would work with the 28V I have. I also could not determine the amps I with the voltmeter I have.

author: Uunoctium
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 04:57:42 pm
content: with some mechanical adaption this item should workhttps://www.ebay.de/itm/156518389165?

author: G35R6
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 07:09:53 pm
content: Quote from: Uunoctium on August 28, 2025, 04:57:42 pmThanks. I'll look into this one as well.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 09:28:54 pm
content: Quote from: Uunoctium on August 28, 2025, 04:57:42 pmNote that those little synchronous microwave turntable motors have no preferred direction of rotation. They will randomly start CW/CCW as indicated in the listing. The original shaded pole induction motor always starts and runs in the same direction.Once the synchronous motor output has gone through the built-in gearbox, there is too much torque to be able to implement any sort of mechanical reverse rotation stop to force it to turn the right way.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 09:51:01 pm
content: You say it's noisy:Is there grease on the gears? That's where the noise would come from, not the motor itself, which pretty much just hummmms.If no grease, then apply some and see if that helps. You don't need too much, just enough to coat everything nicely.

author: G35R6
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 10:13:21 pm
content: Per the guy who rebuilds them, as well as the pinball community, the gears are not supposed to be greased. I initially loaded them with grease with no change in the grinding noise level. When the pinball community saw it, they tore me a new one and said all that grease will attract even more dust and dirt. There are actually very few parts on a pinball machine that require lubricantion.There are two little pads at the ends of the gear axle that get a few drops of oil.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2025, 10:43:07 pm
content: Quote from: G35R6 on August 28, 2025, 10:13:21 pmWell, ackshooly gearsshouldhave alightcoat of grease to run properly. The minimal amount of dust they attract is OK.However, if you say you greased them and it didn't help the noise level, then that's not the problem. (It's probably just a bad gear mesh that you can't really do anything about.)

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 02:45:50 am
content: Yes, the gears should be greased.That is definitely noisy, but are you sure it's the motor/gearbox itself, and not something loose and rattling? Gear noise is normally more "whirring" than "rattling". Run it by itself, in various orientations, to ascertain.There are synchronous unidirectional geared motors in the same size and shape as the random-direction ones; here's a 24VAC CW one which may be suitable:https://www.ebay.com/itm/233276383631

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 03:03:44 am
content: Perhaps you can rectify with only a single diode which is only half wave and gives you 14VDC about. Put a resistor to drop the voltage down. The resistor would be relatively high wattage.

author: RJSV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 03:13:18 am
content: Shit flying around, but I'd seize upon the fact it was stated:"Motor didn't get fixed, when sent out' (paraphrased).Now, I took that the wrong way, I think. Probably, more accurate to say: "Motor runs, but still has the annoying sounds."If that is correct, then you have to address THAT mechanical issue, not attempt to 'rectify' an AC supply, as it would seem that DC might be appropriate, only when finding a new DC motor. See what I mean ? Your troubleshooting goes half-way in the direction of a DC replacement, but then veres into discussing gears.Even if you did succeed in a DC motor installation, electrically, you need to connect that shaft and install the replacement in the place of the old, motor, with issue of it might not even fit or have same mounting screws. But that biggest question becomes:Fine. You have rotating motor already. What did you gain ? It still will rotate into the gears...which seems likely the problem area, not the rotating motor.I'm guessing the pinball machine maker just had the things play loud music and loud sound effects, to mask out the 'grinding'.Did that 'repair' come back with any technician comments, like:NTF ? (That's No Trouble Found)... Because that motor runs now, right ?

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 03:41:04 am
content: There's also the problem that the nom. 28V AC supply may not have enough current to run a lower voltage motor fed by a linear regulator or dropper circuit. Assuming similar power and the same load, the 5V motor is likely to draw over five times the current of the 28V motor, which is compounded by a simple bridge rectifier and reservoir capacitor having a AC RMS input current of approx 1.5 times its DC output current. This means that to power a low voltage DC motor from the 28V AC supply *without* a buck converter would be rather unwise as it may well overload the main transformer, risking burning it out. Unfortunately cheap commonly available buck converter modules are only good for max. 40V DC input, and with the 28V AC RMS measured at 29V, after rectification it will be right at that limit with no margin whatsoever for voltage increases due to high line conditions.Not all gears should be oiled/greased. Some types of plastic gear are self-lubricating, and improperly lubricating them can destroy them either by attracting dust forming effectively a grinding paste, or by chemical incompatibility where the wrong lubricant can cause them to swell and bind or split. In general, metal on metal gears *should* be lubricated

author: RJSV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 03:54:36 am
content: Perhaps the better question would be including the gear function in your replacement. I think you could ask how to find a GEARED MOTOR that has approx. the same rotation rate, looking at things as a whole (rather than just the high RPM motor. That might be what you've been trying to express.For example, your old motor-with-geardown rotates at 3 RPM, and you wish to replace that, in whole. In that case you'd just have to fit the gear train output to wherever the old geared motor shaft output connected, maybe only approximately the same (slow) rate.But, that leaves the question of electrically running, as discussed in replies here.ICOID (in dire cases of impending disaster) you could, maybe, try contact Craig Mader; an independent technician out of BALLY Inc. Likely retired as last we talked was 1990.

author: SteveThackery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 05:03:34 pm
content: Quote from: Uunoctium on August 28, 2025, 04:57:42 pm^^^^^ The answer has already been given. ^^^^^

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 05:40:11 pm
content: Yes the DC motor the OP intends to use has built in gear box so the speed is correct wihout any of he existing gear. The question is that is this motor controlled by something of it just run? If it just run then you can get a motor that run on AC power from the outlet.

author: SteveThackery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 08:06:31 pm
content: Quote from: BeBuLamar on August 29, 2025, 05:40:11 pmWhat? Don't understand. The link points to a 24VAC 2.5 to 3rpm synchronous motor. That is to say, functionally and electrically identical to the faulty one. All that would be required is some minor metalwork to make it fit. No need to bodge in a DC motor, with all the electrical shenanigans required.This is a solved problem.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 09:48:33 pm
content: Quote from: SteveThackery on August 29, 2025, 05:03:34 pmQuote from: SteveThackery on August 29, 2025, 08:06:31 pmAs I pointed out (and you clearly missed!) the linked itemwill notmeet the OP's requirements. It has no preferred direction, the rotation direction at startup being random.The OP will need to source a different motor with fixed direction of rotation, either CW or CCW as appropriate.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 10:02:52 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on August 29, 2025, 09:48:33 pmAre you sure?I ask because of this picture of the auction item:(Even though the item description says CCW/CW.)I never heard of a gearmotor that had a random running direction. That doesn't seem useful at all.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 10:17:49 pm
content: Quotewere direction of rotation dont matter there fine,like the microwave turntable or there elderly relative, mirror ball rotators

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 10:20:01 pm
content: Quote from: Analog Kid on August 29, 2025, 10:02:52 pmYes I'm sure. Those motors are intended for Microwave oven turntables. If you observe your microwave oven for a couple of minutes, you will see that the turntable starts in random rotational direction. Neither the turntable nor the food care. Basic synchronous motors don't have a preferred starting direction unless biassed or ratcheted in some way.As you observed, the listing indicates CW/CCW, yet there is no direction purchase option and only 2 wires (on an AC motor). I think somebody mentioned that single direction ones might be available (in 24V though?) but I haven't personally come across one.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 10:56:43 pm
content: Quote from: themadhippy on August 29, 2025, 10:17:49 pmAre you ever going to learn to write English correctly?"Where" direction of rotation "doesn't" matter (or at least put in the goddamn apostrophe)."They're" fine."Their" elderly relative.Unless you just don't give a shit. In which case we'll treat your posts accordingly.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 11:03:30 pm
content: QuoteDilligaf

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 11:33:57 pm
content: Quote from: themadhippy on August 29, 2025, 11:03:30 pmIgnore it is then.You can go down the hall, 3 doors to the right: that's the club meeting. @RJSV and @coppercone2 are already there.Oh, yeah, it's the "EEVblog Most Ignored Posters" club.

author: RJSV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 01:05:49 am
content: thermahippy:See what I mean with this guy; this turd of a member. (I didn't even have to do anything, to get trashed by this fellow...lol).A.k. you make my ASS pucker, when I glance at a new reply, and it's you, Analog Kid. My body system has learned your demeanor, and it's not good: "goddamn this and goddamn that member" you spew out your stupid crits....I bet lots of members loath your very presence.You, (a.k.) TALK like you our leader: "We can't understand..."Who, exactly, is 'we' ? Don't answer, pleeeaze, I don't wish to explain shit, to a TURD like you. Go ahead and make a hate-speach list.(You might even be going into actionable behavior, legally speaking)

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 02:01:35 am
content: Quit arguing amongst yourselves...and yes, I did post a link to a unidirectional 24VAC version of the geared synchronous motor:https://www.ebay.com/itm/233276383631

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 02:08:47 am
content: Quote from: amyk on August 30, 2025, 02:01:35 amOK, so now we can definitely concur with @SteveThackery: problem solved!*Clockwise

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 02:24:13 am
content: While everyone bickers about each other the OP isn't getting much help, and it appears that he needs a lot of learning to understand his options and solutions.There are at least four options I can see.1. Reduce noise of existing motor. Watching the video I didn't hear much noise that grease would be likely to help, though a viscous grease "might" help what seems to be a rotational resonance in the gear train. But making the noise less obnoxious seems possible, by reducing transmission of the noise to the outside world. I sounds like the whole upper cabinet is acting as a sounding board. Mounting the motor with appropriate elastomeric (rubbery) grommets would help. Doing the best job possible would involve doing a spectral analysis of the sound, and then creating a mechanical model of the system to select the best durometer for the rubber, but that is hard even for those with appropriate skills. Just finding grommets of different thicknesses and softness and trying them works also. You may find that doing this at multiple levels is helpful/necessary. For example if there is a subpanel that mounts the board to the case isolate that too.2. Replace the motor with a low cost one of the type mentioned in previous posts. Direction of rotation will tend to be random, though you might get lucky and find the dynamics of the gear train mounted in your system favors one or the other direction. But it isn't obvious to me that direction of motion is important. It seems to be just an element of visual appeal and would be eye catching either direction. There is also a question of whether these will work on the delivered 28 VAC. (To OP. These numbers identify the voltage and type of current. AC swings back and forth between peaks, here in the US 60 times per second, in many parts of the world that is 50 times per second). The peaks are at 28 volts. Running a motor designed for 110 V AC will result in less turning torque but may work in your application. If not you could probably fix the problem by purchasing a door bell transformer, which usually takes 110 VAC and converts it to 28 VAC, and connecting it backward. Connect the output leads of the transformer to in wires from your pinball machine that drive the motor, and connect the input leads of the transformer to your motor. Connected this way the transformer converts the 28 VAC to the 110 VAC the motor wants. There are a number of possible problems with this connection, but it is very likely to work.3. Replace the motor with a high quality shaded pole gearmotor that uses 28 VAC and has an output speed in the range you want. I did a little searching and didn't find any quick results meeting this criteria. The companies that do this sort of thing will do custom builds to meet your exact needs. But even the off the shelf designs are quite expensive, and I can hardly imagine what they would charge for a custom job.4. Use one of the low voltage DC gearmotor options. These typically can run off a range of voltages, like 3 VDC to 28 VDC and output speed is proportional to the voltage applied. (Again to OP, DC means the voltage does not change over time.) Using one of these will require converting the 28 VAC that your machine supplies into the desired DC voltage. Modules to do this are harder than to find than I would have imagined, but I am sure some searching will find one at a reasonable price. The best option is one with a variable output. You can then easily adjust to get the speed you want.One thing that would tremendously simplify this problem is knowing the exact function of the spinning disk. If it is merely decoration, and is always on you could direction wire the power for the motor in option 2, or the input to the DC voltage supply in option 4 to the machines 110 VAC supply. For the option 4 you could just use one of the myriad low cost bench DC supplies instead of a dedicated module. Even if the disk turns on and off during game play you could achieve a similar result by using the 28 VAC motor drive to to control a relay that turned 110 VAC for use in the motor drive function on and off.

author: RJSV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 03:05:48 am
content: Actually, I do get the point, about the bickering, in public...even international embassassment!This one person exerts disruption, for whatever purpose or sick gratification. Your reaction included. EEVBLOG business screeches to a halt. Could you, maybe please just monitor things for a while, because saying "you guys both chill out" doesn't fit the circumstances.Moderators have their own reasons, for running things this way, and I tend to let them, as they see fit.Thanks

author: factory
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 10:35:22 am
content: Quote from: CatalinaWOW on August 30, 2025, 02:24:13 amThere is a video link in the first post showing the display panel from the front, it appears to just rotate a light around a multicolor panel, I'm guessing it's a plastic disk with two cutouts that shine the light through.David

author: SteveThackery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 10:59:23 am
content: Quote from: CatalinaWOW on August 30, 2025, 02:24:13 amYes he is!https://www.ebay.com/itm/233276383631Job done.EDIT: For what it's worth, both links provided by @amyk appear to be unidirectional motors - the 'CW' is a big hint.ANOTHER EDIT: Looking at the OP's first video, it seems to me that the display would be just as interesting if it went anticlockwise. So although neither of @amyk's linked motors are bidirectional, it probably wouldn't matter if they were.

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 11:59:51 am
content: The OP asked for AC to DC conversion because he bought thishttps://www.servocity.com/3-rpm-gear-motor/

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 12:33:52 pm
content: Quote from: SteveThackery on August 30, 2025, 10:59:23 amYes, the link that amyk providediscorrect. The link you quoted in your Reply #24 wasincorrect. That's why I flagged it - to prevent the OP from buying an unsuitable motor.

author: G35R6
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 04:22:10 pm
content: Hey Everyone. Thanks for all of your help/replies with this. It looks like there might be a few to try here.Yes, this motor is spinning a very light plastic disc in a CCW direction continuously.https://www.flickr.com/photos/203423882@N06/54754257476/in/dateposted-public/Here's a side shot of the gears.https://www.flickr.com/photos/203423882@N06/54753428147/in/dateposted-public/Believe me, I had those gears loaded with grease to where you couldn't even see them and it resulted in no change in the noise level.To clarify, I'm looking for a small motor that'll fit and rotate CCW at around 2-3 RPM.And, I'm hoping to avoid the gears. If I can find something that I can wire directly and not fry the motor or any of the boards, I'll figure out a "bracket" to mount it.Here's how it was done before but to a game that supplies 5V instead of the 28V that mine supplies.https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Black_Hole#Replacing_the_Black_Hole_%22Spinning_Disk%22_MotorThanks again.

author: SteveThackery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 04:49:40 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on August 30, 2025, 12:33:52 pmOK, but the motor in that link clearly shows 'CW' on the label. Does that mean nothing?

author: Uunoctium
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 05:10:32 pm
content: Is it possible to connect an new motor directly to AC 110/120V? Without the transformer?The range of options for finding a suitable one would be significantly greater.e.g.:https://chancsmotor.com/product/50ktyz-110v-motor/

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 06:38:36 pm
content: Quote from: SteveThackery on August 30, 2025, 04:49:40 pmNot when the item listing clearly states CW/CCW in two places. The photo is probably stock, it's the description that counts.

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 07:00:29 pm
content: Quote from: G35R6 on August 30, 2025, 04:22:10 pmRun your 5V DC motor from 120VAC with a power supply. It's easy to get a 120VAC to 5V power supply than from 28VAC.

author: jindaohan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 07:23:56 pm
content: This might sound a bit silly, but if I understand correctly, you're complaining about noise. In this case, use a silicon wafer. Measure the noise meter to suppress it. The other one is probably looking for a 28-volt motor. You tried 5-volt, and it burned out. So, why not take a phone charger PCB, connect it to the motor terminals in the +- direction, and run it at 5 volts? What's the significance of 28 volts? Is it necessary? Why not use two 5-volt motors? They can be easily connected with a belt. The wires overheat very quickly at higher voltages. Use a larger wire. Connect the 14-volt and 5-volt motors separately.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 08:34:52 pm
content: Quote from: jindaohan on August 30, 2025, 07:23:56 pm"Silicon wafer"? ? ? ? ?

author: SteveThackery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 09:00:10 pm
content: Quote from: BeBuLamar on August 30, 2025, 07:00:29 pmNo, don't. Put your 5V motor to one side and buy the 24V AC synchronous motor @amyk linked to above. No electrical changes necessary. It would be quite wrong - and a horrible bodge - to use the 5VDC motor just because you have bought it.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2025, 09:07:31 pm
content: OP: Can you at leasttrythe 24 VAC gearmotor with your rig, not permanently installing it but simply seeing if it runs OK (and isn't too noisy)?In my (limited) experience, those small motors are pretty damn quiet.A piece of isolating rubber ought to remove any traces of sound.Forget all those other voltage-conversion schemes.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2025, 02:10:55 am
content: Quote from: Analog Kid on August 30, 2025, 08:34:52 pmThe whole of that user's post reads like a really bad AI hallucination, especially when I got to the part about "two 5-volt motors" "connected with a belt" and then "the 14-volt and 5-volt motors". The rest of his posts make about as much sense too.

author: G35R6
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2025, 07:09:56 pm
content: Run your 5V DC motor from 120VAC with a power supply. It's easy to get a 120VAC to 5V power supply than from 28VAC.This may be my best option yet.In the past I've added an additional power supply to a game in order to have separate 5V and 12V terminals to power additional "stuff" on the game and not tax the system.

author: G35R6
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2025, 06:56:28 pm
content: Had a little bit of progress last night.I ran a couple wires from the 5V terminal on the power supply in my other game to the motor I had bought and......it ran as expected!It's also whisper quiet which is why I started on this path to begin with.https://www.flickr.com/photos/203423882@N06/54763621724/in/dateposted-public/Next hurdle is figuring out how to get it mounted in place.Thanks again for all of your help/suggestions.

author: G35R6
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2025, 01:06:31 am
content: Just wanted to wrap up this topic.I ended up wiring in a separate 12V power supply to power the replacement motor I bought.The 12V had the motor rotating at the perfect 3rpm.Thanks again for all of your help.https://www.flickr.com/photos/203423882@N06/54806159573/in/dateposted/https://www.flickr.com/photos/203423882@N06/54805060962/in/dateposted/

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2025, 01:26:41 am
content: Well, that's certainly overkill. But if it works, that's what matters, right? The players won't care.Congrats.