Cheap test equipment - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: hafsa
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 08, 2025, 09:43:26 pm
content: Good evening everyone, I was watching some videos on Youtube about cheap multimeters because the market is flooded with this meters for a few years, I don't have a lot of money to buy expensive quality meters neither I need it for what I do but I was wondering if these cheap meters will last. If you are using this kind of tools through the years I would like to hear your experience, they hold the precision, the buttons and selectors works fine with heavy use? Maybe I will try suggesting a video for the future because I know Dave have a huge collection of meters old, news, cheap.... EXTREMELY cheap and the expensive or very expensive ones so he have many to test and compare and maybe he is interested in testing the long term reliability.Another thing I would like to know is if you have one or more of those cheap meters you are not using for many years and if you can give it a check to see how they perform now.Thank-you!I wish you all a great week

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2025, 11:03:37 pm
content: What do you consider cheap?$10?$20?$40?$60?$100?There are some around here would not consider any meter worth the batteries you put in it unless it is wrapped in yellow rubber and cost more than $250, and that would be their definition of cheap. So let us know what your budget is.I still have meters I bought in the 1970s that were cheap back then and they work just fine and dandy today 50 years later. I also had an expensive Fluke 8062a that went tits-up after only 25 years.

author: KungFuJosh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 01:44:50 am
content: Quote from: BillyO on July 08, 2025, 11:03:37 pm

author: kmoonwalker
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 03:55:27 am
content: I think you need to specify a bit more about for example price level, durability and precision you expect. We also dunno what you wanna do with it?for example:- In one company I work part time (car garage equipment distributor + car workshop sometimes) I had various dmms from low to a bit more expensive price level (ones usually found in big stores nearby as boss was there for some shopping and got one) and usually they did not lasted long there.From most sturdy and not bad on measurement quality for low voltages I have since few years some Uni-T UT890C model.And it is pretty OK for me. Not as accurate as my private ones but pretty OK for checking PSU voltages, mains, etc.It would be of course nice to have a fancy 87V or something but it is really not necessary there.If there is a bigger problem I am bringing mine or taking a part of machine to my place for repair so I use better equipment nobody will break "borrowing" it to measure sparkplugs for example...But not for guys fixing cars as they are able to kill a brand new dmm in like 5 minutes time so they usually get some cheap UniT or something like UT33 and for that kind of meter/price it is also you know measuring and it does not have lot of digits so works usually fine (the more digits -> more errors in time).They killed "like" 3 of mine there simply borrowing them and incorrectly using :/At home I have for more than decade a Sanwa PC5000a (I got it for like 125 USD equiv I think back then) and recently got new PC7000 (like 2,5-3 times more expensive with cal and adjustation certificate - still cheaper here than 87V) and I am really found of PC5000 in general terms but it maybe a bit complex at first to use cause you need to know what you want it to do and after remember how you left it cause it will rememberI also have a UT210E clamp meter that I got accidentally cause I needed one for something and it was in nearby electronic store and it is OK (all things considered). It has about 4 years now and not much used but operational and measures DCV which is a very nice feature.But generally in the past UniT had that issue that after some time beyond warranty things stopped to turn on suddenly, especially when not used for prolonged time. That is my past experience. It seems that newer ones are a bit better but time will show or I am using some "better" units.This is about reliability - everything can break up - and even those fancy ones. It is more about luck to certain unit you will get.Also there is a good chance that you may do something bad accidentally to it and it will just you know... bzzzt/pafI can pretty confident see how voltage drops on low power device with CR2032 battery with my PC5000 due to 500000 countBut you do not need that for normal ordinary use at home - usual 2000-6000 counts meter is generally much more stable with indications and if it lasts it may not need a calibration like ever but more digits meters may need that from time to time if you need certain level of accuracy and certainity -> then you need expensive meter.Cheap ones if you get one of proven design like 890 chipset will serve you for some time and when their time comes you will just get some new meter investing like I dunno 20-30 usd (or less depending on your selection).My father has some dmms from 90ties that are still working (but those were made by renown Metex and Escort as OEM for VoltCraft, etc so "better shelf").I do not think, except for some "good units", that new cheap ones will generally last so long

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 05:59:26 am
content: Quote from: hafsa on July 08, 2025, 09:43:26 pmIn general, I would say that age is perhaps less important than how often it is used or abused and in which environments.More expensive DMMs are probably better protected against misuse and harsher conditions.My cheap DMMs, which I only use occasionally, still measure within their specifications after many years.But you might ask yourself why the question is so important to you.Does a DMM that costs as much as a pizza and a coke have to last 25 years? Why?

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 09:08:35 am
content: Quote from: hafsa on July 08, 2025, 09:43:26 pmHere are a few examples of cheap, older multimeters that I have. All get 1V from the same source.From top to bottom:Ц4324 from 1978, no idea what the price was back then, but Soviet devices were bought because of the low price.Still reads 1V (upper black scale) as well as it can.VC-11, about 12 years old. Cost CHF 9.95.BT-22 (UT123) about 5 years old. Also about CHF 10.AN8008, about 5 years old. Approx. CHF 18.-

author: thephil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 11:31:26 am
content: Both the definition ofcheapandgood enoughvary widely depending on the intended purpose. Some examples:Checking voltages in your average Arduino project: a $20 meter will do, not much accuracy needed. But $100 get you extra features that may be handy (e.g. temperature, capacitance, frequency, ...)Working on electrical stuff in your car: rugged but not necessarily very feature rich or acurate. Maybe a clamp meter would be better.Working on mains electrical systems: Great accuracy is not very important but proper safety is. It should also be rugged and survive a good drop. So you want a brand name device but nothing high-end.Professional electronics work: Most likely you want a real brand meter that comes with a calibration certificate.You are a member of TEA: nothing below a 8 1/2 digit bench meter will do....For general hobby electronics use with some convenience and a reasonable feature set many meters in the $50-$150 will do just fine.Many even cheaper models seem to offer similar features now. For the price it often doesn't matter if they will last very long but I would not trust their safety ratings.Also remember that themultiin multimeter refers to the number of such devices you will accumulate over time, not the number of things it can do. So It's ok not the get the perfect meter in the beginning.Oh: and so far, only one of my many multimeters ever broke and that was an expensive one. It was fixed under warranty though.

author: thephil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 11:46:05 am
content: And one more thing: may impression is that many really cheap meters will do a lot of things but offer less convenience. E.g auto-ranging may be slower, continuity beep does not react that quickly, less acquisitions per second, etc. So depending on budget and patience they may or may not be a good choice.

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 12:00:03 pm
content: Quote from: thephil on July 09, 2025, 11:46:05 amI don't think the price says much in regard to continuity beep speed.The BT-22 (10 CHF), which I photographed above, is one of the best for continuity.See for yourself:https://youtu.be/s8mRZVx4m6k?t=635

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 02:53:03 pm
content: Accuracy is not an issue these days. There are off the self ADCs, heck, full DMMs on a chip, that are cheap as chips and as accurate as a scalpel.I watched a video the other day (see my post on the Zoyi ZT1000R) where the cheap 20,000 count, $35 Zoyi precisely matched the accuracy of a $450 Fluke 87v. Plus, it has a 1000V, 20GΩ megger built into it.The time has gone where "cheap" multimeters lack accuracy and features. And if well treated, most will last a long, long time. The real difference comes in what you are using it for. If it's going to sit on your electronics bench it's entire life and maybe once in a blue moon check a household outlet, then something in the $30-$50 range will fit the bill. In that case the $450 Fluke would just be a complete waste of money. If your going to use it in an industrial CAT-III or CAT-IV environment, the tables swing the other way. The $450 Fluke will help ensure you can come home to dinner with the family.

author: rogerggbr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 03:28:53 pm
content: In many cases the best meter is the one in front of you. I have several but the type I use most is the smallest and cheapest (Aneng AN8008) because they are convenient and certainly good enough for most hobby/casual use. I have one at work, two at home in different toolboxes, if I ever blow one up they are essentially disposable (although that is NOT my intention). I also have an old DT-830B (at least 25 years) which still works well, just don't trust it on mains voltages. I think it must have come free with the cereal it was that cheap.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 05:41:28 pm
content: IMHO an important feature of a multimeter is that it doesn't give false readings when the battery is low. And this is not something which only happens on cheap multimeters. I've seen quite expensive BK precission meters do this as well causing engineers chase a problem that doesn't exist.

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 06:28:36 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on July 09, 2025, 05:41:28 pmEven cheap DMMs such as the UT123 or AN8008 have an empty battery indicator at the bottom left of the screen.These meters warn you.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 08:44:29 pm
content: My advice is this:You shouldn't buy cheap. You should buy good value. And if you buy something that you use often, spend a bit more. Because you always going to long after that better tool, and using your current one will be lacking. And buying two is more expensive.And if you are not sure if you need something at all, maybe buy cheap. I have an angle grinder that I use every leap year, so that 35 EUR invested into it sounds just about right.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 08:53:48 pm
content: Quote from: Aldo22 on July 09, 2025, 06:28:36 pmThat may be, but a meter shouldn't work in case the readings are wrong. It is that simple.

author: Martin72
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 08:58:38 pm
content: Some Fluke meters then display incorrect values; it would be better if the meters switched off with Bat-Fail.

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2025, 09:57:25 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on July 09, 2025, 08:53:48 pmI have just done a test to see how the two meters behave with weak batteries.The UT123 only shows a red LED. The batteries are probably not sufficient for the backlight.With the same two AAA batteries, the AN8008 shows the empty battery symbol, but still measures VDC correctly.I have not tested any other functions.