hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Soldering Station advice - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: NoiseGate
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 27, 2025, 09:57:27 am
content: Hi all, I’m looking for advice to get a soldering iron or station. There are many post threads around but kind of overwhelmed.I’m a hobbyist with basic skills and knowledge and have mainly worked on / built and repaired, guitar pedal, solid state and tube guitar amps.Previously I have been using an ordinary 40watt iron or a Weller WLC-100 clone. The second one of these I’ve bought died, so I’m looking for something a bit better and robust.I’m looking for something safe out of the box ( Australian standards), so I think transformer based. Readily available tips T12, not interested infancy features or messing about with firmware etc.Also maybe looking for a second iron, portable usb charged with battery as i work outside often to do quick teaks and mods on gear. TS-100 / 101 ? TS80 ? Are the portable ones powerful enough for making chassis grounds?Anyway looking for a good current guide or amazon or AliExpress link. Hoping to keep price range between $80 to $140 AUD ( $40 - $70 USD) but may be happy to go a little higher if there is enough reason or value in jumping up $.Don’t want to by junk or unsafe gear but don’t need anything more than will survive use a for a few hours, couple of days a week every few weeks.What are your thoughts for 2025?

author: RayRay
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2025, 03:35:14 pm
content: I'd suggest you go with Geeboon TC22 (with the T245 handle), look it up on Aliexpress.It's not transformer based, but is affordable, and has good safety & low tip to ground voltage.Also, I'd recommend using tips made by Kellyshun (as they're of very high quality), look up "Kellyshun C245" to find em.

author: Solder_Junkie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2025, 08:54:28 am
content: I am not in favour of buying much of anything from China in terms of soldering irons/stations.I have a genuine Weller hobby/school soldering station (WE1010). The similar units by Hakko are highly regarded.For outdoor use you need something much better than a USB charged iron. I have a 12V 25W Antex (model MLXS) and a 100 Watt mains iron (Antex H100). Antex irons may not be available in Australia, but you will see the type I mean on this site:https://www.antex.co.uk/

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2025, 10:57:42 pm
content: I'd only advice buying what I use myself. So T420D by Aixun it is.It's not expensive either. Back in 2013 I remember buying Aoyue Int2703A+ with T12 equivalent tips for $350. That tech is still available for same price. This one is only $250 delivered to your door.https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806236177754.htmlIf you want good T12 station with hot air, Int2703A+ is still a good choice. So don't shy away from it, especially if you can get a used one or even a broken one. I've seen one sell for as little as $50 on eBay. Brand new it's$350from SRA Soldering. $389https://www.sra-solder.com/soldering-equipment-1/aoyue-2703a-all-in-one-digital-hot-air-rework-station-4277
Soldering Station giveaway [DE/EU] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: babysitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2015, 06:26:47 pm
content: A soldering station (Ersa something) giveaway is taking place next monday.To win, you must be a trainee in the company where I am working... and oh... just have passed your intermediate exam very well.The winner will have received a oldschool multimeter and a Siemens NG80 already for the good report from school and is a certified beginner owning no other gear yet.

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2015, 06:45:18 pm
content: https://ricebag.org/Or the less fancy version:http://feisar.de/content/gfx_de_breakingnews.html

author: PeterFW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2015, 07:04:09 pm
content: Quote from: madires on March 21, 2015, 06:45:18 pmDO NOT OPEN THAT LINK!(If your speakers are turned on.)I read the URL, i somewhat knew what i would see, but still..I hate you right now.
Soldering station grounding - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kderh
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 06, 2011, 06:02:29 pm
content: Hi,I recently received a new "Ersa i-Con Pico" soldering station and I was surprised to see it has a power plug without a ground terminal, so the station isn't grounded at all (including the tip).Can this be a big problem with uC & LED soldering? May static electricity build up in the tip since it isn't grounded? The station also doesn't have a potential eq. jack and is listed as "not anti-static".Should it be enough to just ground the metal soldering iron stand (when you pull the iron out, you touch it with the tip most of the time) to equalize static charges?Thanks

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2011, 07:16:21 pm
content: that will do. one day i'll remove that ground off my iron's tip, sometime i solder grounded live (on battery or pc usb powered) circuit. that "grounding the stand" is a good idea.

author: Devian
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2011, 04:05:24 am
content: It is designed like that? You'd better confirm with the sender maybe there is something missing, or if it is designed like this itself, you do not need to worry about, just use it according to the manual.
Soldering Station Not Working Right - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: admiralk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2021, 09:33:51 pm
content: I have an old Hakko 936 and sometimes it would solder fine and other it would do nothing. Eventually I noticed that the problem was only one side of the tip was heating up. In other words, when it would not solder, if I flipped the tip over, it would start working fine. Not a big deal if doing a bunch of joints in a row, but a pain if only doing a couple before setting the iron down and having to figure out the good side all over again every couple minutes.Any ideas on what could be causing this behavior? It does not make any sense to me.

author: jmelson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2021, 02:04:38 am
content: Probably the tip has gotten oxidized on one side. You need to periodically "tin" the tip, to remove oxides and get a layer of melted solder coating the tip. There are tinning blocks that contain sal ammoniac, you poke the tip into it and it produces acids that break down the oxide. Then, quickly apply solder to the cleaned tip.There is a possibility the oxide-resistant coating on the tip has broken down on one side, in which case you will need a new tip. But, try the tip cleaner first.Jon

author: admiralk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2021, 06:40:16 pm
content: Hmmm, I generally try to keep the tip tinned when not in use. I will give the block a shot next time I order something.Thanks.
Soldering Station Questions - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Ziggywho
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2018, 01:40:41 am
content: I currently obtained a soldering station Pace MBT 201A/PPS 80A for free with no tools and I was wondering how to decide which tools to get. I am looking partially for a decent desoldering iron. I've seen the sx-70 but it's expensive for me right now at close to $200. Is there a certain standard of desoldering iron that works with this station? Are pace tools the only compatible tools? I'm trying to stay under $100 for a moderately decent desoldering iron. Would I be better off selling the Pace station and getting a cheaper desoldering station? Thanks in advance for any help given.-Zachary

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2018, 03:41:59 am
content: I'd give Pace a call, and see if the SX-80, 90, or even 100 will work with it (nozzles changed to reduce clogs; don't know about the connector pin-out). Hopefully one of these will work with it, and you find a used one on eBay (i.e. saw an SX-80 w/o nozzle for $39 starting and no bidders).Otherwise you'll have to wait for an SX-70 to show up at a decent price or unload the MBT and get something else. For a station, you could consider aZD-985or a self-enclosed gun version such as theS-993A(quite a bit cheaper). There are threads on both of these in the forum if you search.FWIW, if you're not doing a lot of desoldering marathons, you would be better off just using a decent manual desolder pump (i.e.Engineer SS-02) and some decent desolder wick/braid.You'll need decent wick regardless (Chemtronics, MG Chemicals, Techspray, or Multicore [aka loctite/Henkel]). Genuine Goot is good stuff too, but as it's so counterfeited, best to skip it unless you're ordering directly from Japan.BTW, selecting your country in your user profile will help others with links, particularly those regarding pricing & A/C input voltages for powered equipment.

author: Ziggywho
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2018, 03:49:38 am
content: Thank you for the help. I will contact Pace and get back to you on if it's compatible with the sx-80 and higher.

author: trapc45
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 19, 2018, 08:54:55 pm
content: The makes two different kinds of hand pieces. Most of the older equipment uses SensaTemp models with an all black twist lock connector. The newer stuff uses IntelliHeat models with a blue twist lock DIN connector. I know the newer power sources can drive SensaTemp hand pieces with an adapter, but I am not certain about the other way around. Pace makes a good product, but it is quite over priced in my opinion. That being said I have an MBT-350 on my bench and just added a PP-30 to drive their pulse heat tools. Defiantly look on the flea bay for used or milsurp stuff. I got the 350 complete with hand pieces new in the box for a song. Buying their consumables (tips and filters) can get spendy though.
Soldering station starter kit  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: tech2400
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 14, 2014, 01:28:38 pm
content: hi there guys, im a noob here. ive been doing some research and looking to get into light SMD work, mostly repairing DJ equipment such as broken USB ports etc. i was bidding on a Hakko 850M V12 desoldering station and won it for $99, also currently bidding on a Hakko Fx888D soldering station. do you guys think i made the right choices for the SMD tools, any input would be nice, thank you.Jasko - Audi technician

author: RedOctobyr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2014, 05:06:10 pm
content: I have a Hakko FX888 (non-D, just a dial for setting temperatures), for general soldering work. I typically use it for bigger, simple stuff (soldering connectors onto 10AWG wire, etc).But I have used it for a bit of circuit-board work, using a very-small tip. I was able to do what I needed on the boards, but I have no context for how well-suited it is to that, vs other tools.I've been very happy with it, however, in the context of what I use it for. Maybe look at the tips available and see if they'd suit what you have in mind.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 14, 2014, 09:10:30 pm
content: I have a 936, which is the 888's predecessor. I have a SMD tip for it and I was able to solder 0402 resistors to a practice board. If you are young and have good eyesight, both are against me, you should do just fine with the FX-888D. Get a variety of tips, real deal Hakko not the cheap eBay fakes, and you should do well.

author: suicidaleggroll
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2014, 09:47:51 pm
content: I have a Hakko 936 at home and an FM-203 at work. Both perform just fine for SMD work with the right tip. As GreyWoolfe said, make sure you get the genuine tips, not the eBay knockoffs.
Soldering supplies in Spain - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: GoodCrossing
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2018, 07:34:05 pm
content: Hello!I am starting out and I'd like to get proper soldering equipment, and I've been looking to buy Multicore solder but can't find it anywhere in Spain - not even Henkel's website says anything about it. Where do you get your solder?

author: luiHS
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2018, 07:55:16 pm
content: http://www.nufesa.com/componentes-electronica/1/soldadura

author: GoodCrossing
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2018, 07:56:03 pm
content: Thank you!

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 13, 2018, 09:54:02 am
content: I bought mine from tme.eu. I think it was branded differently (but not sure). I think it was Stannol. Are Stannol and Multicore the same thing?But even if not, I wouldn't care too much about it. The bottleneck is not flux or solder, but the engineer. Just don't buy total crap from China, and you'll be fine, imho.

author: Wirehead
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2018, 10:06:44 am
content: Yeah in Europe Stannol is well available. HS10 is my go-to leaded solder.- Ersa for equipment can be bought in many places. The T12 clones aren't bad either with real tips.

author: GoodCrossing
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2018, 05:17:06 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on July 12, 2018, 09:12:19 pmI'm currently using a no-name, iron that plugs directly into the mains, but I'm looking around for a good station.Quote from: exe on July 13, 2018, 09:54:02 amIt looks like they are both property of Henkel, so I'm wondering that too...

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 13, 2018, 07:08:47 pm
content: Quote from: Wirehead on July 13, 2018, 10:06:44 amJust looked at my spool, I also use HS10. And Chinese t12. Tips not original, but I'd qualify them as very good (so far).

author: GoodCrossing
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2018, 12:27:31 am
content: Quote from: blueskull on July 13, 2018, 08:30:30 pmYep, I'm probably going for a Hakko 888D as I live near the official distributor so I can get one for about 100€.
Soldering Surface Mount MCX - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: metrologist
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2017, 03:34:55 pm
content: I sheered off a surface mount right angle MCX connector. The solder joints make a clean break so the pads are fine. I do not have any hot air soldering station. Any tips on how I can reconnect this?

author: chris_leyson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2017, 04:32:49 pm
content: Never worked with surface mount MCX but I think hot air reflow is your only option otherwise how do you solder the center pin.

author: metrologist
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2017, 06:37:39 pm
content: So maybe I will have to order a chinese hot air reflow station anyway... There is a crystal mounted on the other side. I worry about messing it up worse that it is now. I could solder on a coaxial pigtail right now...
Soldering Temperature for QFP and Surface mount cmos chips - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Websteria
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2019, 03:30:17 pm
content: I have looked at some data sheets for QFP processors and they say the max temp should only be 200 degrees. I can't drag solder at that temperature I don't think. Also DS3231 says 280 degrees.If I use 280 will I be safe on the QFP processor? I tack two corners down and then wave solder at the pins.Thanks so much. Just don't want to destroy chips.Jeff

author: TheHolyHorse
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2019, 03:12:51 pm
content: Yeah it may state something like that but it's usually for a relatively long time. Like it may display some profile for reflow soldering and say like 280 degrees max for 10 seconds. You can solder just fine at higher temperatures as long as you don't keep the iron on it for an eternity.So I wouldn't worry about it, usually when you drag solder you don't keep the iron on for long anyway so have at it

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2019, 10:22:18 pm
content: QuoteFor one thing, not all chips are made equal. Some are more sensitive than others.But when it comes to soldering with an iron, but the 200 degrees is not w/e temp you set the iron to. 200C is very reasonable to do by drag soldering.You set your iron higher (300-350C, typically) so that the joint will reach about 200 degrees.
soldering tip for smd work - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: zeeawk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2016, 09:18:06 pm
content: What would be the best tip to get to practice smd work?I have a weller wes51.

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2016, 11:06:39 pm
content: Ideal tip size will depend on component size and board density.The ET series tips for the WES51 isn't very divers being only conical, chisel and hoof style. The ETA is a 1.6mm wide chisel tip, that would be my choice for general SMD use.

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2016, 04:56:24 am
content: Personally I've found that any small tip will do quite well as long as enough flux is used. I don't have a Weller, my iron is an Ersa, but for stuff like tiny SMD caps or SOT-23 BJTs etc. all the smaller tips give perfect results as long as enough flux is present. I tend to use an offset pencil tip most of the time for smaller stuff just because it makes easier to get into tight areas.

author: zeeawk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2016, 07:32:30 pm
content: Thanks... I've ordered a couple different ones and ill give them a go.
Soldering tip temperature. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Markybhoy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2010, 05:55:18 pm
content: Is there a rule of thumb on soldering iron tip temperature, the solder I have says its melting point is 190 degrees c, but im assuming you want the iron a bit higher than that so your not spending to long soldering the component but how high ?

author: charliex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2010, 06:15:51 pm
content: http://www.elexp.com/t_solder.htmhere's a useful text.

author: cyberfish
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2010, 07:44:56 pm
content: Unless you get a very expensive temperature-controlled soldering station, you won't be able to control (or even see) the temperature anyways.If you do, 350C is probably enough for leaded solder. I like to go 420C for lead-free. But that's at the school's lab (with expensive soldering stations).At home I just use a 25W. No idea how hot it gets, but it's fairly standard.

author: Markybhoy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2010, 10:05:44 pm
content: 350C seems to work good, thanks.
Soldering Tips ATTEN - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: londrim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 08, 2014, 11:16:44 pm
content: Hi everyoneI recently purchased the new ATTEN soldering station AT-90DH. However it seems almost impossible to find tips for this station.I have found only a couple on this store (shop.boxtec.ch, not useful) but according to ATTENs website there is 62 different tips for this model!Anyone has any idea where to find any?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2014, 12:26:03 am
content: They appear to be copyingWeller's LT series' tips.Plato makes an equivalent line of tips to fit the Weller, so you might be able to locate those as well (Plato MS series).BTW, posting where you're located, or better yet, setting it in your profile (= puts up a flag under your user ID), will help other members with posting useful sources to buy stuff.

author: Maxlor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2014, 08:06:58 am
content: How abouthttp://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=atten+soldering+tip

author: londrim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 09, 2014, 10:06:13 pm
content: Hey thanks for helping guys.
Soldering tricky LoRa module CMWX1ZZABZ-078 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: nuclearcat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 28, 2020, 07:49:00 am
content: I have module to solder on several prototypes and curious, what is the best way.My idea: preheating + air gun. But is it right way?P.S. Is there any better choice for FCC-precertified modules (but not more expensive)?

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 28, 2020, 12:42:42 pm
content: Quote from: nuclearcat on May 28, 2020, 07:49:00 amWhat other options do you have?

author: nuclearcat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 28, 2020, 08:14:13 pm
content: Quote from: exe on May 28, 2020, 12:42:42 pmRemoving dust from my crusty cheapo reflow oven, made from first grade of chinesium. (Actually it works well for me, but never tried it on anything more complex than few simple SMD parts).That also means i need stencil.

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 28, 2020, 08:44:08 pm
content: How do you put solder without a stencil? By applying a solder paste with a syringe, or adding solder on pads with a soldering iron?

author: nuclearcat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 28, 2020, 09:33:37 pm
content: Before i was just ordering stencil, but it's additional cost.I tried to make it on CO2 laser and some plastic sheets(i think mylar) and did it, but its too much headache.Probably will order some then, when will order PCB again.
Soldering tutorials from YouTube - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jebnor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2013, 01:19:59 am
content: The production is dated, but the content seems to be good. Just thought others might like to see what I found.

author: ablacon64
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2013, 06:17:14 pm
content: All Pace videos I've seen so far were "dated" but the information is amazing, very rich indeed. Take a look at this one:

author: Jebnor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2013, 11:46:07 pm
content: Quote from: ablacon64 on July 18, 2013, 06:17:14 pmI'm slowly working through all of them. I found some references to using Freon! Yeah Freon. Just sitting there in a glass container. Non-toxic to humans, but nothing like killing the Ozone layer one connector bath at a time.

author: StubbornGreek
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2013, 12:00:45 am
content: These pop up here and there as 'suggested reading'. They're really excellent and imho one of the best (if not the best) soldering resources on the internet.
Soldering Videos for beginners - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: medical-nerd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2017, 06:49:00 pm
content: HiyaI found this PACE video series from 1982 that explains and demonstrates many concepts regarding through-hole soldering that answered many questions that I had.https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837Hope you find it useful.Cheers

author: FJohnson63
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 18, 2017, 08:11:04 am
content: Hey, I'm trying to fix my headphones but it's my first time with soldering. Your tutorial gonna help me A LOT, thanks!

author: OpenCircuit
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 04:06:36 pm
content: Hey guys. Check this out:

author: medical-nerd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2017, 04:38:04 pm
content: They are not mine, but I found them very informative so thought it was worth while showing where they are.We could make this topic a list of soldering tutorials or references we find useful???Cheers
Soldering Videos - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Homer J Simpson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2013, 12:19:55 am
content: I was reading the recent thread on solder and read the post where member "StubbornGreek" referenced the Pace Electronics training videos on YouTube.I checked them out the last couple of days and as a beginer / novice, I thought they had a lot of good information and were well presented.Most are from the early 80's but all of the info holds true.I reccomend you watch them. I have put the YouTube links together and listed them below.Again, thanks to member "StubbornGreek" for pointing these out.Everything you wanted to know about soldering and desoldering but were afraid to ask.Everything you wanted to know about soldering and desoldering but were afraid to askBasic Soldering Lesson 1 - "Solder & Flux"Basic Soldering Lesson 2 - "Soldering To PCB Terminals"Basic Soldering Lesson 3 - "Cup Terminals"Basic Soldering Lesson 4 - "Bifurcated Terminals"Basic Soldering Lesson 5 - "Hook and Pierced Terminals"Soldering Lesson 6 - "Component Soldering"Basic Soldering Lesson 7 - "Integrated Circuits: The DIP-Type PackageBasic Soldering Lesson 8 - "Integrated Circuits"Basic Soldering Lesson 9 - "Integrated Circuits: The Flatpack & Other Planar-mounted Components"PACE Rework and Repair For Electronics Lesson 1PACE Rework and Repair For Electronics Lesson 2PACE Rework and Repair For Electronics Lesson 3PACE Rework and Repair For Electronics Lesson 4PACE Rework and Repair For Electronics Lesson 5PACE Rework and Repair of Electronics Lesson 6 - "Damage Repair"PACE Rework and Repair of Electronics Lesson 6 - "Damage Repair"PACE Rework and Repair For Electronics Lesson 7PACE Rework and Repair For Electronics Lesson 8Enjoy KT

author: LEECH666
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2013, 09:42:39 am
content: Those videos have been posted on the forum before, but as with all threads that aren't very active: It ended somewhere in Nirvana.Maybe a mod should make a sticky thread, once more interesting videos are added.Cheers,Florian

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2013, 03:17:53 pm
content: I've actually created a thread with those a long time ago:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/basic-soldering-lessons-from-pace/msg107939/#msg107939But as long as I'm posting, I should contribute.Found these videos as quite nice examples of doing nasa/avionics level soldering .. yeah, lots of people will say it's quite a waste of solder and too much cleaning of parts, but you can't deny the soldered parts lookhttps://www.youtube.com/feed/UC2JWNyHYKh47ZzB44aY0j_g/uThere's more videos on the channel

author: Homer J Simpson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2013, 11:18:35 pm
content: Sorry I missed that they had already been posted.Still a lot of good info though.KT

author: cwalex
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2013, 04:18:12 am
content: I love watching soldering tutorials. there are some shockers on youtubeA sticky where people could post all the soldering videos that are good is a great idea
soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2014, 01:05:54 pm
content: can you use a hot air iron for through hole soldering?

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2014, 01:35:57 pm
content: Quote from: abdullahseba on September 02, 2014, 01:05:54 pmNo.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2014, 01:40:46 pm
content: Quote from: sleemanj on September 02, 2014, 01:35:57 pmYes.Someone skilled enough with a hot air gun can solder anything that can be done with an iron. It's just a lot more difficult than using an iron.

author: d3javu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2014, 02:01:46 pm
content: If you have a dead or used pcb and a blower, give it a try, see for yourself how easy or hard it is. Otherwise, better spend it on a solder station.

author: Terabyte2007
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2014, 02:15:57 pm
content: Quote from: abdullahseba on September 02, 2014, 01:05:54 pmYes, but there are easier ways. If you have a Re-Work station with an adjustable temp and pump, you can use a small tip and direct the right amount of heat and airflow in the area you need to extract or solder a through hole point. However, using a solder iron with the appropriate tip will yield better results.

author: abdullahseba
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2014, 09:13:03 am
content: thank youcan you fit a iron on the ATTEN AT 858D+ instead of the hot air piece

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2014, 10:09:30 am
content: Quote from: abdullahseba on September 03, 2014, 09:13:03 amNo...to keep the pedants happy, no, not unless you want to do some major hacking. The hot air piece element runs at main voltage from memory, while 936 style handles run at lower voltages. It's hard wired, while handles are socketed. The temperature sense method may (likely is) different, the calibration and control method for hot air and iron would be most likely totally different...
Solderless terminal ID request - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Dinocerous
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 20, 2023, 05:26:15 pm
content: Hi,I am trying to find a crimp tool and replacements for the terminal in the attached image. I am having trouble finding it online, not sure what to call it. It looks to me like the wire is inserted into the "V" fully insulated and the metal cuts through the insulation to make contact with the wire.Can anyone tell me the name of these terminal connectors?Thanks,Daniel

author: srb1954
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2023, 07:41:00 pm
content: Quote from: Dinocerous on November 20, 2023, 05:26:15 pmLooks like a standard IDC (insulation displacement connector). Such connectors are made by Molex or TE Connectivity amongst many other manufacturers.The colour of the nylon body indicates the wire gauge that the terminal is sized for. It is critical to use the right size of wire as IDC connectors can only handle a small range of wire gauges in order to maintain constant term pressure on the wire for reliable, gas-tight connections.

author: Dinocerous
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 20, 2023, 08:31:20 pm
content: Thanks for your help srb1954, I think you have me on the right track now.For anyone else interested here is a forum post discussing the series made by TE and the associated tooling:https://modwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=258614

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2023, 09:13:12 am
content: It’s MTA from TE.What’s nice for the hobbyist is that the plastic insertion tools are very inexpensive and work well. I’ve used them before.
soldiering iron advice  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: peterthenovice
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2013, 04:23:14 am
content: I found this iron on ebay its a hakko clone with rework gun and a 1 amp 1-15v power supply. for 109 us dollars.I want to upgrade from myplug it in heat it up slowly from radio shack.hers the ebay link:http://www.ebay.com/itm/853D-3in1-SMD-Soldering-Iron-Hot-Air-Gun-Rework-Station-DC-Power-Supply-Digital-/300861005053?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460cb69cfdhere is a youtube link:

author: peterthenovice
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2013, 05:23:01 pm
content: I have updated my post to make more sense.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2013, 06:21:14 pm
content: Why the two different threads (repeated here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/soldiering-station-advice/?topicseen)?

author: micro_freak
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2013, 10:43:48 pm
content: Ok for hobby, do not expect the build quality of a professional grade station. Definitely not as good as hakko or jbc, but for a fraction of the cost, it will do adecent job. If you use it once a month, it will last at least a decade.

author: jtorba
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 17, 2013, 05:59:56 am
content: Save up for the hakko one, it is always LOADS better.

author: Dylogic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 17, 2013, 04:40:06 pm
content: That 3in1 station is realy nice but if you blow the power supply can you still use the soldering iron and the hot air gun? and for only 109$ for this for soldering Iron, Hot Air, DC Power Supply it a good deal but I am sure real Hakko soldering station will do so much better and be much durable.
Solenoid clicks but doesn't move - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rthorntn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2018, 07:52:49 am
content: Hi,Schoolboy error, I purchased a couple of cheap solenoids (airtac 3v210-08 12v) from AliExpress, looks like I got internal pilot operated ones when I wanted direct.When I apply voltage it clicks and I can see it drawing the correct current but the valve doesn't move.In laymans terms how do you make an internal pilot actuate, apply pressure to the inlet, if the inlet always has pressure how do you switch it, by removing the voltage, why is a pilot solenoid better for automation?Basically I want to switch the path of air between two destinations and I want to just apply voltage to the solenoid to have it switch paths, my valve will never be closed it will either be on path A or path B, what do I need?Thanks.Richard

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2018, 08:11:27 am
content: I'm not sure what you're asking. The type of solenoid valve you're describing needs a certain pressure differential to work properly. It will not work at very low pressures, because the pressure is required to operate the valve.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2018, 08:12:23 am
content: So this is not just some solenoid but a valve and an 'electric over air' or an 'electric over air over air valve' and not just a valve but a 'change-over' valve.Yes such things exist so for best advice we need know exactly what this is as how it's plumbed can effect operation.Any links ?Are you sure you're feeding it enough current ?How many ohms is the winding ?

author: salbayeng
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2018, 08:27:37 am
content: OK, I found the valve on Ebay, it says "internally piloted"So the spool won't move unless you have some minimum pressure on the P port.You probably wanted a direct operated valve, or a poppet valve.Most of the rectangular shaped valves (like airtac 3v210-08 12v) are designed to be mounted in a manifold, and most rectangular shaped valves are pilot operated.Direct operated valves normally require a lot more electrical power to operate (as the solenoid magnetic field has to provide enough force to balance air pressure over the full diameter of the valve and also push against a spring that also has enough force to seal off over a large area). On a piloted valve, only a tiny force is required because the plunger just obscures a pinhole.Your valve also has a manual over-ride , inadvertent operation of these will cause the valve to stay open.

author: rthorntn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2018, 09:27:59 am
content: Thanks everyone, I ordered a VT307 direct solenoid from Aliexpress, ultimately I will probably end up with linear actuator and will injection mould the valve part.
Solenoid doesn't work when I connect solenoid and dc motors ground together - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: elefurtronik
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2023, 06:15:27 pm
content: Hello everyone,As you can see in my schematic there are two loads that are connected to MOSFETs. One is a solenoid valve and the other one is a DC motor. When I connect the solenoid valve and the dc motor's ground together, the solenoid valve doesn't work. However, when I connect the solenoid valve's GND leg separately to the ground, the solenoid works. Could you help me with this issue, please?I checked Vds for both MOSFETs and there is enough voltage besides that my battery can deliver 1A continuously with no issue.My SV pulls 100mA and my DC Motor pulls 500mA. Both of them are 6V components that work between 4.8V-7V.Edit: In my schematic, I changed BJTs with N-Channel MOSFETs with 10k Pull-down resistor and connected the P-Channel MOSFETs to the N-Channel MOSFET's drain.

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2023, 08:28:24 pm
content: Pleae post a sketch of the two schematics you discuss. When you talk of connecting the two components' "grounds" together, are they also connected to the common ground of the whole circuit at that time. A diagram will be a lot easier to think through than a worded description.

author: elefurtronik
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2023, 09:50:08 pm
content: Hello,I have attached it to the first post but it somehow couldn't upload. I think now, you can see it. Personally, I also think that when it is grounded it shouldn't be a problem but it doesn't work surprisingly on my bread board.

author: elefurtronik
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2023, 01:52:44 pm
content: Hello,Any help or experience to share?

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2023, 10:32:31 pm
content: I can see your schematic now, thanks, but I can't see the motor or solenoid anywhere within it?

author: elefurtronik
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2023, 10:56:27 pm
content: Hello, with higher amper load(480mA) is motor and the other one is solenoidI1: Dc motorI2: Solenoid

author: Manul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2023, 11:24:18 pm
content: Quote from: elefurtronik on February 05, 2023, 06:15:27 pmI don't understand what it means "together" and "separately" in this context. In your schematic, which of these two are shown? How the other variant looks then?

author: elefurtronik
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2023, 07:16:05 am
content: Hi,Together means I solder solenoid valves one cable that goes to negative to the motor’s negative. Separate means I don’t solder solenoid’s negative pin and connect it directly to the bread board’s Gnd
Solenoid rail has voltage ripple - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: makebit
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 04, 2025, 01:00:41 pm
content: The S070 solenoid needs a 5v rail, but what if it has the shown ripple on it?Switching frequency ripple is 160kHz.....lower freq ripple is 3.5kHz.S070 solenoid (0.35w)https://www.smc.eu/en-gb/products/s070-3-port-solenoid-valve-compact-direct-operated~75558~cfg

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2025, 01:12:48 pm
content: If the voltage to power the coil the ripple doesn't matter.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2025, 09:11:26 pm
content: The solenoid is inductive, so the current though it will have less ripple, than the voltage across it.Here's an example which demonstrates this with an inductive load connected to a bridge rectifier. Note the current through L1 never passes through zero, even though there's lots of voltage ripple.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2025, 09:34:39 pm
content: @Zero999 explained it well.You might be able to hear that 3.5KHz ripple when the solenoid is energized. The higher-frequency ripple won't have any noticeable effect at all.

author: MrAl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2025, 09:36:09 pm
content: Quote from: makebit on October 04, 2025, 01:00:41 pmYou have to show what is powering this in order to figure out if there is really a problem or not.

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2025, 09:37:43 pm
content: Quote from: MrAl on October 04, 2025, 09:36:09 pmWhy? The OP showed us the voltage waveform for the solenoid supply: isn't that sufficient?

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2025, 09:54:39 pm
content: OP: Why not just throw a filter capacitor across the rails? A couple hundred μF oughta take care of the LF ripple, and you don't need to worry about the HF component.

author: MrAl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2025, 04:51:09 pm
content: Quote from: Analog Kid on October 04, 2025, 09:37:43 pmHi,I don't consider that sufficient when we see a waveform like that. That's because it could point to something else wrong down the line before the relay. We'd probably want to fix that even if the relay is working perfectly.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2025, 05:08:10 pm
content: Quote from: MrAl on October 05, 2025, 04:51:09 pmI agree with that. The circuit will probably work, but that high frequency oscillation is a strong suggestion that there is something in the driver circuit not working very well. The lower (around 400Hz) ripple has another cause. At the very least you should examine the circuit close enough to learn and understand the root cause of both these voltage variations, and then decide whether to do something about them.

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2025, 10:34:26 pm
content: Is that a hydraulic solenoid valve? A dither is often added to prevent sticking.
Solenoid valve 2/2 way N.C., with 3 pins ? (21JN1R0V23) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: onesixright
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2018, 05:34:29 pm
content: Hi All,I'm looking at a solenoid valve, and to my surprise it has 3 pinsI thought it would be normal a 2 pin connector (energised the valve opens, and vice versa). But here I have a data sheet for a solenoid with 3 pins. For the life of me, I can not figure out (from the DS) what the function of the 3rd pin isMaybe a simple switch?Anyway, if someone could explain, awesome!?Thanks a bunch! And a link to the DS.https://www.ode.co.nz/pdfs/21JN1R0V12.pdf

author: alpher
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2018, 05:41:11 pm
content: Ground.

author: onesixright
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2018, 05:48:18 pm
content: Quote from: alpher on November 05, 2018, 05:41:11 pmI was overthinking it :-) Thanks
solid gnd plane for signal conditioning expansion board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: metebalci
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2024, 03:57:33 pm
content: I am designing an STM32 Nucleo(-64) expansion board for analog signal conditioning of ADC inputs and DAC outputs of the MCU and maybe also external DAC buffer(s), so it will contain a few opamp ICs and maybe a vref IC, passives and something for power I have not decided yet. The minimum conversion time is I think 0.25us and the maximum sampling rate is 15Msps. I will need two signal layers, shall I start with a 4 layer PCB to have a solid gnd plane or would 2 layers be OK ?

author: MarkT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2024, 08:54:48 pm
content: Its a natural fit for 4 layers - power and ground planes, two signal layers.
Solid or stranded ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Hextejas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2018, 08:14:50 pm
content: I am about to wire the insides of a pre amplifier and power amplifier. The connections will be from a PCB to RCA jacks, grounding, speaker terminals, and mains to switches and fuses.I have 18 ga stranded and 22ga solid.Any recommendations ?thanks

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2018, 08:52:00 pm
content: Always use stranded. Reason is they are flexible and more forgiving for movement.If you use clampconnectors on the pcb don't forget to put an aderendhuls on the end before clamping.

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2018, 09:29:56 pm
content: adereindhuls = ferrule in English.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2018, 12:50:35 am
content: 18awg is pretty beefy stuff though. I'd probably get some 24 or 26 stranded. I like to cut up old computer cables for project wiring. I pulled a 8' parallel printer cable from the trash somewhere and used it for years. 25 different colors of stranded wire.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2018, 02:54:13 am
content: Personally, I only preferentially use stranded wire when the two ends are not fixed in relation to each other. And in this scenario, the joints will either be crimped or they will need some kind of strain relief or isolation from where the rest of the wire is free to move.For connections that are going to be simply soldered with no strain relief between two points that fixed in relation to each other, I usually prefer solid wire with a thin/flexible insulation. It is more ductile for the gauge, meaning it tends to stay better where you bend it. And it is LESS prone to breakage when occasionally moved for maintenance, under these conditions of being soldered without strain relief. Stranded tends to break next to the joint in this scenario. The sharp transition between solid solder and free strands is not kind.Stranded will be preferred in case of using crimp connectors made for it, of course.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2018, 02:02:05 pm
content: Quote from: james_s on October 02, 2018, 12:50:35 amDid you read the application? OP says some of it is for a power amplifier. In that case, 18ga may not be beefy enough! Depends on the power, really. And I certainly wouldn't use anything thinner than 18ga for the mains power connections!!!

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2018, 04:17:24 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on October 02, 2018, 02:02:05 pmOh, I was browsing on my phone and only saw the first part about the pre-amp and RCA jacks. Yeah for a power amplifier I'd suggest at least 18AWG for the mains side and speaker jacks, possibly larger depending on the power levels.
Solid state or Relay, Trigger is -12v .200ma? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 67mustang-man
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 22, 2016, 06:06:35 pm
content: I have a Vertex Standard radio and to trigger from external speaker to PA speaker you need to use a relay to switch over from one speaker to the next as they share the same audio source. they have a trigger on the radio that comes out of a DB HD15 plug it triggers the relay on the negative side of 12v and a max of .200ma What would be the best way to trigger this solid state transistors and no relay or a mixture of both?Any simple schematics one could provide as well would be great.Thank you

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2016, 08:24:10 pm
content: A small relay is probably best, considering the speaker signal is AC. A diode should be connected in reverse parallel with the relay coil to protect the driver transistor from the back EMF.

author: 67mustang-man
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 22, 2016, 08:47:53 pm
content: So a simple DPDT Relay would would work best, now what do you mean a diode in parallel with the relay coil, as in across the + - side of the relay?Thank you for the input, I will look for a 200ma relay.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2016, 11:23:13 pm
content: The diode should go in reverse parallel with the relay coil.

author: 67mustang-man
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 22, 2016, 11:43:12 pm
content: Wonderful and this diode should not affect the radio? Great I will build this for my radio, I am new to some of this stuff. I want to learn temp push button but latching relays and what not for other radio projects I have in the future. Thank you.John