Sony Discman D-FJ401 Repair (How do I open this thing?) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2025, 05:21:58 pm
content: I'm trying to repair this Discman and failing at the first step. The service manual does not contain the single most important piece of information anybody would need to service the device. How to unscrew those last two screws. They are completely inaccessible and are required to be removed for further disassembly. I can take it from there, but if somebody would just pretty please explain to me how to open this thing. Thanks!https://elektrotanya.com/sony_d-fj401.pdf/download.htmlEdit: Here's somebody else with the same problem, no reply:https://old.reddit.com/r/walkman/comments/1aogl42/sony_dfj401_dont_have_a_power_cord_and_batteries/

author: thephil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2025, 07:48:40 pm
content: Form the exploded view, I would think that you need to remove the upper lid assembly first. Maybe it's just clipped on or there is some kind of hinge pin you can push out or something like that...Edit: the image says "Spring full open" in steps 2 and 3 (left an right) – so probably its the springs that hold the lid? Try to remove those.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2025, 08:05:58 pm
content: I removed the springs. They seem to have no function other than pushing the lid open. I don't see any way to remove the lid. There's no rod to slide out, no way to pop it out from the joints its on, etc.I repaired quite a few Sony players so far and none have this issue. They all either open from the bottom, have a way to remove the lid or have angled screws or otherwise accessible screws that can be removed with the lid on. No idea what on earth they were thinking with this one and then not mentioning anything about this ridiculous design in the service manual. I've been staring at this for hours, watched every YouTube video on Discman repair (not a single one looks anything like this abomination) and genuinely have no ideas how you can open this.Here's somebody else with the same problem, no reply:https://old.reddit.com/r/walkman/comments/1aogl42/sony_dfj401_dont_have_a_power_cord_and_batteries/

author: thephil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2025, 09:13:25 pm
content: Stubborn device!I studied the photo in the link you sent as well as the details of the exploded view in the service manual again. To me it seems that the lid hinges on two plastic "axles" that are an integral part of the dark grey plastic tab next to the springs. Ibelievethat you need to do some firm prying in order to push the legs of the lid to the outside and thus free it. Maybe its necessary to close the lid halfway while doing that so the lit gray/silver legs can move in the slot. Or maybe even from the outside if there is a slit you can reach in with a spatula when the lid is almost closed.But it's hard to tell from a picture – so its mostly guesswork...

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2025, 09:46:32 pm
content: I had initially discounted popping them out, but as you correctly observed you can push them free if you have the lid half-open, making this maneuver even more tricky. I tried to do so with a lot of force and managed to free one side. I had to use metal tools that completely mangle the plastic because there's no way to do this with a plastic spudger. Even then I can't free the lid because once I pop one side out the other is wedged in even more tight. It really feels like I'm going to break the entire discman into pieces :/I just don't see how I can get this hinge off, let alone re-attach it and do all of that without breaking the flat flex cable etc.I really hope the Sony engineer that came up with this design had to spend the rest of his lifetime employment scrubbing toilets for this. You had a hundred discman models with perfectly reasonable cases and assembly / disassembly procedures but this guy had to spend the weekend coming up with a 'novel' way of doing it...

author: thephil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2025, 04:38:53 pm
content: Wow – that thing puts up quite some resistance...The only other think I can think of: Can you take of the plate on the inside of the lid? Maybe it reveals something helpful? That is some really repair-unfriendly design and I'm stumped that the service manual doesn't even mention how to get that off. given the complexity.

author: Roehrenonkel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2025, 06:55:08 pm
content: Hi Rooster Cogburn,get the propper tools for the job.Like an angled screwdriver or a screw-bit and pliers(if you don't have an angled bit-driver).Good luck

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2025, 09:59:34 pm
content: Quote from: thephil on January 11, 2025, 04:38:53 pmThe idea of maybe removing the LCD/button PCB and panel from the lid of is good, then you could poke a screwdriver through one of the button holes or so. The problem is that the totally impossible to access screw is the left one and the lid is fully solid around it with no holes for display or buttons anywhereI worked on dozens of Sony products like CRT TVs, CD players, consoles etc. Normally they are quite well-designed and logical and their service manuals are usually great!It's so frustrating because the discman is in good condition. I just need to replace the battery tabs after some leakage and the laser needs a little bit of tweaking. Would be a 15min job.Quote from: Roehrenonkel on January 11, 2025, 06:55:08 pmI don't think such tools exist. I can maybe get my shortest bit into the right one to unscrew it, but and the other screw is completely inaccessible :/ I'm pretty sure you're not meant to unscrew them before removing the lid or you need a one-of-a-kind tool to do so.The left screw is just not possible to unscrew with the lid on:

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2025, 11:12:48 pm
content: The screws on the top that you highlighted are the inside cover behind which the lid buttons and LCD are located. I can remove them, but this only gives me access to those components. I was thinking maybe I can unscrew the obscured screws in the base through the button holes etc., but the issue is that the most inaccessible screw one the left has no openings in the lid nearby, so that wouldn't help.I was also of course thinking about how they put the player together, and I assume they snap the lid hinge in from the back. But I can't get it out of the socket at all. With a lot of force and plastic damage I can free one side. You can see how badly I mangled it already, plastic tools did nothing. I don't see how I can slide it out towards the back, I'd just break everything trying to pop both hinges free.There's what seems to be a clip in the base at the outside of the hinge, but I don't think you can just unclip that and lift out the baseplate from the bottom pan without removing the last two screws. The service manual shows they are screwed into the bottom pan and have to be removed. I can pop out the other clips around the four screws I already removed, but the part around the hinge doesn't budge. I think I really have to remove the screws.Some more pictures, hope it helps, I know it's difficult to debug something mechanical from a picture :/

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2025, 11:22:02 pm
content: Quote from: Rooster Cogburn on January 10, 2025, 05:21:58 pmCan you share some pictures of theoutsideof the hinge, in both open and closed positions?I suspect that the design of the hinge is such that it guides the hinge into those triangular slots on the base to stabilize it when open, and that stabilization is what prevents splaying the hinge to remove it. Consequently, I further suspect that the hinge must be spread open in theclosedposition (or mostly closed), because only when open can the hinge spread into the wider part of the triangular slot.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2025, 11:52:32 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on January 11, 2025, 11:22:02 pmClosed you can't see anything from the outside and there are two pictures of the hinge open from the outside in the batch I just posted.Quote from: tooki on January 11, 2025, 11:22:02 pmI think that is correct, and when trying to remove it I did it with the lid half-closed. I suspect that is why the service manual recommends removal of the springs since with them installed you can't hold the lid half-closed. But like I said, even with extreme force and causing significant damage I was only able to pop out one of the hinges. The right one that has most of the plastic damage was me trying to remove it as well after I popped out the left one. It don't see how it's possible to remove it without completely destroying it and likely also tearing the flat flex cable going through the hinge :/

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2025, 12:00:50 am
content: Quote from: Rooster Cogburn on January 11, 2025, 11:52:32 pmMy response was posted after you posted those images, so clearly they do not contain the angles I want to see, or else I wouldn’t have asked.Please show the hinge from the side, not the top. Open and closed.Quote from: Rooster Cogburn on January 11, 2025, 11:52:32 pmYou were still going at it from the inside. But what I suspect is blocking the hinge is the long hinge sections, such that you’d need to spread them apart from theoutsidewhile closed, because those hinge sections rotate down and out when closed.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2025, 12:06:31 am
content: One other thought: use a hot air gun with a small nozzle to CAREFULLY, GENTLY heat the plastic to make it a tiny bit more flexible. You’d be surprised how big of a difference it can make, even when heated far less than needed to soften the plastic.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2025, 12:30:49 am
content: Quote from: tooki on January 12, 2025, 12:06:31 amDidn't think about that, interesting idea. My hot air starts at 100C, actually seems to be 80C, so that should be safe enough.Quote from: Simmed on January 12, 2025, 12:16:53 amI wish! This is how dozens of other models of Discman look like. Do you see how the screws are angled and relatively shallow? That's how it should be. On this particular model they face straight up and are deeply recessed. I've never seen this on any other model of discman.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2025, 11:43:25 am
content: Quote from: Simmed on January 12, 2025, 12:37:55 amSure, that would do it. But I can't imagine drilling holes or heating up plastic is the intended procedure. The service manual doesn't exactly show a drill or a hot air gun.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2025, 09:11:31 pm
content: Half-open position, two small flat-blade screwdrivers wedged into the two side, and rotate while prying. It was assembled by snapping together, so the plastic should have enough flex (both the top and bottom pieces) at least when it was new. Another small hint: apply a careful bending moment on the top piece, to spread the posts apart slightly.I recently had to repair another product (incidentally also Japanese...) where they used the same stupid design, and broke one of the hinges off because the plastic had become more brittle and rigid since they assembled it. I plastic-welded it back with the soldering iron set to 200C (it was ABS+PC material, same as yours) and it snapped into place successfully again.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2025, 05:08:16 pm
content: Quote from: Rooster Cogburn on January 12, 2025, 12:30:49 amWould youpleaseindulge me and take the additional photos I have asked for repeatedly? You may not think they show anything, and you might be right, or you might be wrong. Digital photos cost nothing, so would you just take some?

author: Koray
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2025, 07:53:50 pm
content: This video may help:

author: Koray
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2025, 07:57:12 pm
content: Watch this video, the same structure, remove the circuit board on the lid and then the rest seems easy:https://youtu.be/wDf3Gag0Y0k

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2025, 02:52:13 am
content: Quote from: Koray on January 18, 2025, 07:53:50 pmSo close, but no: as soon as he rotates around the edge to the back, he flips it up. So the part of the back I want to see - the gap between lid and base — is the one angle the video never shows!

author: Koray
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2025, 01:12:44 pm
content: Did you see the second video I posted? There you can see how the lid is separated from the body. Apparently the circuit board on the lid has to be removed first. Then the lid can be pulled out.K.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2025, 01:23:18 pm
content: Quote from: Koray on January 19, 2025, 01:12:44 pmI sure did. But didyou, actually?Quote from: Koray on January 19, 2025, 01:12:44 pmNo, it doesn’t show how it is separated. It shows the PCB being removed, then the video makes a hard cut to the lid already off. It doesn’t show how he got it off!!

author: drhex
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2025, 04:08:41 pm
content: He does explain it though and as far as I can make it out the half open, leverage out is the way to go.

author: Koray
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2025, 04:15:35 pm
content: Yes I did. You are right it doesn't show how it is actually done, but from the parts we see I can guess that you just yank the lid away. With the flex and the circuit board removed it looks relatively easy.K.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2025, 10:13:12 pm
content: Quote from: Koray on January 18, 2025, 07:57:12 pmThe circuit board on the lid doesn't seem to be related to the hinge and that video just contains a cut and the lid is suddenly off. It's super long and omits the one piece of information needed. Just like the service manual. So frustrating. Notice that during re-assembly that step is also cut. I very much doubt it's easy or there wouldn't be two cuts at these exact moments in an otherwise meandering and lengthy video.Quote from: tooki on January 18, 2025, 05:08:16 pmI understand that you need to have the lid half-open to get the hinge off, that's what I tried. When it's closed you have no access to the hinge. Here are some more pictures, hope those are helpful.https://ibb.co/album/Xj1nt4Quote from: Koray on January 19, 2025, 04:15:35 pmAt the very least the service manual seems to suggest that's not how it's done. I put A LOT of force on the hinge, I couldn't certainly 'just yank it away'. I found a model with the same issue, D-EJ751 (https://elektrotanya.com/sony_d-ej750,ej751,ej753,ej755,ej756,ej758.pdf/download.html), nothing in the service manual either.

author: Koray
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 06:49:08 am
content: Circuit board on the lid needs to be removed first otherwise the flex will be torn off with uncontrolled pull. After the removal of springs the lid can be pulled off it seems.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 01:00:24 pm
content: Quote from: Koray on January 21, 2025, 06:49:08 amIn the video you linked it shows a model where you can access the main board side flex connector from the outside, there's no need to remove the circuit board on the lid. The springs have no part in the retention of the lid and whether you remove them or not makes no difference to the issue with the hinge.

author: Koray
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 02:35:21 pm
content: OK, how about this one:

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 05:01:32 pm
content: Quote from: Koray on January 21, 2025, 02:35:21 pmDoes not show removal of the lid either.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 05:50:15 pm
content: I'd love to just avoid this entire pointless lid removal procedure if possible. I thought there must be some kind of tool for this. These exist:But at least from what I can find they are PH1 smallest, which seems pretty chunky.Even if they were a PH00 version, not sure you could even wedge it in there:They really took pride in designing this in the dumbest, most pointless way possible.I'd also like to add there's zero flex in the lid to spread the hinge apart, even with the top display, buttons and cover removed. The rigidity comes from the rim, not anything in the center.

author: thephil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 05:58:39 pm
content: Quote from: Rooster Cogburn on January 21, 2025, 05:50:15 pmYou could make a custom tool: Heat the tip of a cheap Ph00 driver with a torch until red hot, bend it and quench in a little oil.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 07:56:13 pm
content: Quote from: thephil on January 21, 2025, 05:58:39 pmLove that idea, but I have zero experience or equipment in metal working :/ I'd probably just melt the screwdriver with a blowtorch and set my house on fireThe recessed holes in the baseplate are PH0. They are perfectly accessible with that kind of chunky driver. The back right one can almost be removed with the 2.5cm bit that I've shown in the picture with the plyer, but the left one is totally inaccessible. The first angled tool I've shown is 1.4mm deep but PH1. There's another kind of angled driver that's available in PH0, but those are all 2cm deep :/ If there was a PH00 driver that's maybe 1cm deep this should be very doable, but I can only find those two types of angled drivers everywhere I looked.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 08:47:52 pm
content: Quote from: Rooster Cogburn on January 20, 2025, 10:13:12 pmThe first one is a start. (I don't need any of the inside, we have plenty of those.) I suspect that with the lid closed or mostly closed, you can slip a thin screwdriver into that gap (visible in the first picture) and push the hinge arms sideways to clear the pin. Shine a flashlight into the gap; I bet you'll see something.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 08:48:46 pm
content: Quote from: Koray on January 21, 2025, 02:35:21 pmYou really don't understand the problem, do you?? Three videos you've posted so far, all of which fail to show the thing that is needed.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 09:18:45 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on January 21, 2025, 08:47:52 pmAh, Ok, so you really meant the backside, outside, closed, apologies! I investigated that pretty early on (with a flashlight!) and I don't see how. If you open the lid even a bit it pokes down and completely obstructs the gap, so closed it is. I don't see how you could get any tool in there without completely destroying the bottom case rim, at least. Even just poking in for the pictures put marks on the thin plastic. It's a small screw driver and I couldn't even turn it upright to slip between the hinge parts. Flex cable is also right there, easy to damage.I would love to avoid separating the hinge. From a repair perspective there is no reason to ever do this. The only procedure I can think of would be swapping the lid for a cosmetically better one from a donor unit, but in that case just swap the lid and the plate together. It's such a ridiculous design for a PCDP and I can't even think of how painful it would be to re-attach the lid, let alone doing this repeatedly during troubleshooting or when problems emerge after re-assembly. It's just asinine. I guess I'm just not getting whatever the magic trick here is, but I can't get anywhere with plastic tools even with metal tools all I'm doing is destroying the player further. This is why I'm hope there is some kind of tool to defeat this design and just remove the screws while keeping the lid attached like on 99% of Sony players.

author: Koray
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2025, 09:54:19 pm
content: They all show what the hinge fingers of the lid looks like. In the last video there is a verbal description of how the lid was removed. I really don't get it. The OP has no intention to take risks on a $5 broken device and just complains. I am done with this thread.Yank the lid off already for God's sake!K.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2025, 12:56:45 am
content: Quote from: Koray on January 21, 2025, 09:54:19 pmThank you.You advice was to just 'jank it off' and a bunch of videos that showed nothing. The only one even addressing the issue simply said to wedge a flathead in there. I did that and the result was nothing but marred plastic, see pictures. I don't think removing the lid is a good idea because it has such a high chance of damage even it it works at all and will surely cause failure on repeat openings. It's not uncommon it my experience to have to reseat a flex cable or to have issues again 1-2 days later with a player. Removing the screws without removing the lid really seems like the only sensible thing, I just need to find or build a suitable tool for the most recessed screws so I can service this type of player in the future.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2025, 02:52:33 am
content: There is this Facom PH0/PH1 angle screw driver with a depth of 18mm. Pretty sure 15mm depth would get the job done, this might be close. It seems like a bit chunky (>3mm? No spec!) for a PH0 driver, though, which might cause issues. Come on, all I need is like a <=3mm PH0 <=15mm depth angled screw driver and I can just open these players without any risk of damage and dealing with this hinge design

author: drhex
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2025, 07:20:57 am
content: Not sure why you‘re hostile towards someone trying to help.Anyway, take a Ph00 bit and cut it in half so you can just grab it with pliers and take the screws out.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2025, 12:47:24 pm
content: Quote from: drhex on January 22, 2025, 07:20:57 amI don't think it's me who's hostile here... That guy had a meltdown because I didn't follow his advice to 'jank it off'...Quote from: drhex on January 22, 2025, 07:20:57 amI was thinking the same, I noticed you can get bits with longer shafts that would be easier to cut off.

author: BILLPOD
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2025, 08:03:13 pm
content: Good Morning Rooster Cogburn, If'n it was mine, I would drill holes in the top....directly above the countersunk screws.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2025, 11:11:05 pm
content: I ordered some small bits I can cut off to size and will visit the local hardware store to acquire a metal saw and fileI'm pretty confident this will get that one last screw out and then I can service these players without issues. Maybe I'll CA glue the chopped off bit to a little wrench, we'll see.To be clear, there are just a small handful of discman (discmen?) that are designed this way, the vast majority have no screws around the hinge, have them angled to towards the opening or have a different hinge mechanism you can easily take apart without any force.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2025, 04:50:57 am
content: Remember that the plastic did flex enough when it was assembled. The two halves weren't injection-molded together. In the two videos that have been posted showing disassembly, they both talk about prying it off. I suspect you just need a prying tool that's wide enough to spread the force over enough area to not gouge into the plastic but bend it instead.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2025, 08:01:45 am
content: Quote from: amyk on January 23, 2025, 04:50:57 amExactly!For all we know, Sony made a special tool for spreading the hinge arms, possibly with some service bulletin covering many models, which could explain why the service manuals are silent on this step.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2025, 08:11:40 am
content: Quote from: Rooster Cogburn on January 21, 2025, 09:18:45 pmFirst off, thank you for posting the images.Well, yes. I thought my initial request (“Can you share some pictures of theoutsideof the hinge, in both open and closed positions?”) made this perfectly clear. Your initial reply to that request was basically to refuse because you can’t see anything from the outside, which the photos ultimately show is not the case.Quote from: Rooster Cogburn on January 21, 2025, 09:18:45 pmFor sure they didn’t make servicing easy! (Then again, Sony portable electronics are extremely reliable — we are looking at stuff that has survived far, far, far longer than their design lifespans.)Anyhow, I suspect one has to come in at an angle from above so as to not damage the back rim, and probably go in with two tools (or one spreader tool of some sort) and spread the arms.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2025, 05:48:03 pm
content: From what I understand this player (D-FJ401), the D-EJ361 and the D-EJ751 are the only ones that have this unique issue. At least those are the three I own so far and I haven't seen any other models with this design. Every other player has clips at the back instead of screws, moves the screws a little forwards, has a lid that opens 90 degrees, has the screws angled towards the opening or uses a hinge design that can be disassembled without force. So if you're looking for a discman repair project and don't won't to deal with this, just avoid these threeThey're not particularly unique or high-end models, so you're not missing out on that much.I generally have a rather high opinion on Sony gear when it comes to reliability, good design and helpful service manuals, so this was a surprise to me! A rare miss, I'd say.I ordered the smallest angled screw drivers I can get and some bits to cut too size, we'll see if that solves the issue or if I have to get more creative, but I'm pretty set on solving this by removing the screws, so I'll find a way to make an appropriate tool once I get the supplies.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2025, 01:15:12 pm
content: I'm afraid I couldn't make any progress on this issue.I received the Facom screwdriver:The manufacturer lied about the dimensions, it's not 18mm high, useless, returned.I received the angled driver from AliExpress:The manufacturer lied about this being a PH0, it does not fit into PH0 screws like my actual PH0 bits. I tried unsuccessfully to slim the tip/wings etc. with a metal file, I just can't get it to fit properly. Not a metal worker.If anybody can recommend a low-profile angled PH0 or smaller angled screwdriver, that would be fantastic.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 10:28:14 pm
content: So, some success. I received my long thin bits today and bending them in a vice gets results:That's a PH00, easier to bend without breaking than the PH0 one. With this, these types of players can be reliably opened:The second type of players still giving me grief are these:Screws are even less accessible. Might not be able to unscrew them no matter what because of the tight space. With removing a tiny bit of interior plastic it should be possible, though. Here:Interestingly, I got got one of those models with a cracked lid, making removal of the lid quite easy. They do not have an angled rim all around and bending the lid allows removal, but then the lid might crack.

author: drhex
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2025, 03:19:37 pm
content: Given they have the Sony "remove to open" arrow they need to come out. Still think the original analysis of half closed and spread is correct. If you have the lid off now you should be able to see how it is supposed to work?

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2025, 06:10:05 pm
content: Quote from: drhex on February 04, 2025, 03:19:37 pmOf course, you can't open either type of player without removing them. To be clear, I can now open the player this thread was about, works just fine with the bent bits. I'll get a blow torch and already ordered some more bits, maybe I can make them better when they're hot. Unfortunately all pre-existing angled screw drivers are crap, so DIY is the only option.Quote from: drhex on February 04, 2025, 03:19:37 pmIt's pretty clear now how it's 'supposed' to work, having the lid off reveals no further insights. I can't make it work and would strongly recommend nobody tries to do it that way.I've found a second model that has an even worse issue, see the second pair of players. I actually have a specimen with a repair attempt by a previous owner. Cracked the lid in half trying to remove it that way. Now it's really easy to get off and onJust don't remove the lid. No reason to. Work around it.I haven't had to open the second type of player yet for repair since all of mine work perfectly well and the one in need of repair was already open. I'm confident I can get it open one way or another without yanking the lid, but I won't try for now because I don't have to.My conclusion is to simply never, ever remote the lid. And if you want to buy some cheap Discman for repair an don't want to deal with this crap, just avoid the 2 out of 100 models with this issues.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2025, 11:32:21 pm
content: Quote from: Rooster Cogburn on February 07, 2025, 06:10:05 pmI think those models just require more skill and patience to work on than you currently possess.As for cracking, I said above to use gentle heat to improve the plastic’s flexibility. It makes a lot of difference, and is a technique used on vintage electronics whose plastics have become brittle.

author: Rooster Cogburn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2025, 07:19:41 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on February 07, 2025, 11:32:21 pmIndependent of ones skill and patience it's not a good idea to remove the lid. There's nothing to be gained by it, huge risk of damage, just make the tools to remove the screws and avoid this issue.Quote from: tooki on February 07, 2025, 11:32:21 pmTell it to the previous owner that cracked itLuckily he gave up upon seeing the extend of the damage to the PCB, didn't make my job any harder. CA glued lid back together with a bit of expoxy backing from the inside. Good as new!