HAKKO FX-888D decalibrated (DOH!) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Sebzy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 10:36:44 pm
content: Well just got my new 888D and decided to figure out the menus before reading the manual.I went ahead and pressed everything and in doing so it looks like I've managed to trigger the calibration settings and now the iron set to 400c wont even melt some 60/40.Hmm what to do...... went searching the HAKKO site for some sort of reset to defaults just to find there's no such thingIt looks like I had two options1. Send back to manufacturer for a service2. Purchase a tip temperature tester like the HAKKO FG-100Well as I'm pretty much broke now after buying the iron I settled for this quick hack.1 - Turn on iron and give it 20 seconds or so to settle down the display reads 400°C2 - Get a piece of solder and make sure it still wont melt I used SN99.3/CU0.7 1.5mm with a melting temperature of 227°C3 - Enter calibration mode once more (hold UP for 2 seconds) and set the temperature to 230°C4 - Now the iron thinks it's set for 230°C but we know it must be below that temperature as the solder has not melted yet.5 - Set the tip temperature (Hold Enter for 2 seconds) and increase it by 10°C6 - Check the solder for melting.7 - Continue continue to increase in increments of 10°C until the solder melts.8 - Go back into calibration and set the temperature to 230°CThis is in no way exact but it gets the iron back working. For more accuracy you could always increase in increments in 1°C units until the solder melts.Note: Step 3 was added as I was unsure how far out I was i'm sure you could do without.A bit disappointed HAKKO made the calibration menu so easy to access as it's quite like the normal temperature adjust. IMO it should be protected like setting presets which require a button press and the power switch.

author: Balaur
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 10:56:24 pm
content: Option 3: get some thermocouple wire, wrap the tip with the thermocouple part, connect that to an appropriate multimeter and calibrate to the degree.

author: Sebzy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 11:05:24 pm
content: Or if you have the toolsOption 4 - IR Thermometer aimed at the tip while increasing the temperature.

author: jpb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2013, 11:34:08 pm
content: Quote from: Sebzy on March 28, 2013, 11:05:24 pmIR thermometers are calibrated for a particular surface emissivity, so you'd probably have to paint your soldering iron tip to get it accurate which might ruin it.(I looked into this a while back when I was thinking of using an IR thermometer to check the temperature of components in a computer - most cheap ones are fora fixed emissivity designed for buildings which is very different from a shiny metal heat sink for instance.)http://www.scigiene.com/pdfs/428_InfraredThermometerEmissivitytablesrev.pdf

author: Sebzy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2013, 01:34:53 am
content: Quote from: jpb on March 28, 2013, 11:34:08 pmAh forgot all about that but maybe a solution is a tip cap made from a black thermoplastic such as Polyphenylene Sulfide 40% you know the stuff used in projector light boxes and bulb housing.Will have to experiment.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2013, 03:03:30 am
content: Use a eutectic solder alloy (which you have) + Multimeter that has a temperature function + K type thermocouple would be one way.Another would be use a dedicated temp tester, such as a Hakko FG-100 or FG-101 clone. They can be had cheaply (can be had under $15USD from eBay or dealextreme) if you don't have a DMM that can do temp and don't want to buy one (i.e would require more money than the tester).Example:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-FG-100-Soldering-Iron-Tip-Thermometer-FG100-0-F-to-1300-F-/200876061693?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec52573fd

author: Sebzy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2013, 04:40:09 pm
content: Went and ordered a MASTECH MS8229 from dx and now the wait begins.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2013, 08:17:33 am
content: Quote from: Sebzy on March 28, 2013, 10:36:44 pmThe perils of trying to cram as much functionality as possible into a UI with 2 buttons. I suppose they could've made it so you had to hold down both buttons to get into that mode...

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 11:13:02 pm
content: Frankly, I would just has an analog pot or rotary encoder with an integrated pushbutton and 2 buttons as my interface. The readout display would be in between the knob and the DIN connector. The rubber buttons would be curved around the knob right where the temperature labels are on the analog version. The analog Hakko looked really cool as the curved case was designed around the concept of having a knob. This digital rubish looks horrible in that case and on top of that is useless.I should study industrial design...nah I stay with electronics

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 11:27:24 pm
content: Quote from: ivan747 on March 31, 2013, 11:13:02 pmNah, your description would make sense as to how to approach it.Closest thing I can think of, is Ersa I-Con models that use a rotary encoder (no soft keys IIRC).

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2013, 11:38:19 pm
content: Quote from: Balaur on March 28, 2013, 10:56:24 pmThat's how I do it. I wonder what's the difference in accuracy vs. a tip temperature meter.Option 5 would be getting some kind of material with a very stable melting point.

author: jpb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2013, 08:27:10 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on March 31, 2013, 11:27:24 pmMy ersa i-CON NANO has just two buttons (up and down) and no rotary encoder. It does though have a micro SD card slot and computer software (which I've not yet used) .Temperature calibration involves pressing both keys together to get the menu and then waiting 5 seconds to save the value.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2013, 09:58:24 am
content: Quote from: jpb on April 01, 2013, 08:27:10 amI was thinking of the i-Con, i-Con 2, and i-Con Vario models.

author: tvtechny
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 06:09:17 pm
content: I would just call the Hakko tech line @ 800-884-2556, then follow the prompts to talk to a technician.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 06:33:45 pm
content: Sorry to read, but your trouble is precisely why the digital readout is overkill, and more toyish than practical. I hope the analog version isn't phased out in favor of the D version, if so, anyone who wants one better get one before its sold out. The digital one makes no sense for reasons written here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/hakko-fx-888-soldering-station-discontinued/msg163563/#msg163563

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 07:34:59 pm
content: Quote from: Sebzy on March 28, 2013, 10:36:44 pmThe perils of backwards progress. The rotary dial FX-888 was the superior design, but Hakko marketing folks couldn't leave a good thing alone. They felt compelled to "refresh" the product and thereby ruined it. Happens with everything these days.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 07:57:21 pm
content: If you want analogue control I think the Chinese will still be making 936 clones for quite some time yet....That is, until the day it's cheaper to have an MCU, buttons, and LCD instead of a pot with a knob and a comparator.

author: megahz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2013, 11:49:38 pm
content: I still love analog soldering stations tho, but some times digital is better

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 03:38:30 am
content: So funny to run across this thread. The first thing I did when they introduced the 888D is read through the manual and watch the videos. The very first thing that jumped out at me is the incredibly crappy interface, and the downright dangerous calibration procedure. I shot off an e-mail to Hakko about it, and actually got a response, but I doubt anyone there cares.Really disappointing. I switched to Hakko over 10 years ago, outfitted labs at my old job with Hakko equipment, and I've been recommending the 936/888 line forever. As soon as I saw what they did with the 888D, I knew I had to stop steering people to Hakko for entry level irons. What a shame.I knew it would happen to someone at some point, but I had no idea that people have started running into the calibration goof-up already. And BTW, does anyone know why they changed the 888 series so that it doesn't stack? WTF? Someone over there needs to lay off the sake.What do I recommend for a good, entry level station now. The only advice I have to give at the moment is, "Find a nice, used 936 if you can, or a NOS 888 if you must...just not the 888D".

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 04:48:44 am
content: Quote from: John Coloccia on June 19, 2013, 03:38:30 amYes, they hired a designer. An industrial designer. A famous industrial designer. An expensive famous industrial designer.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 11:14:48 am
content: Quote from: John Coloccia on June 19, 2013, 03:38:30 amOr a 936 clone, they're not going to stop making those anytime soon.. you can thenupgrade it with a genuine heater.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 12:05:39 pm
content: I guess he already got something to measure it with but I got a Hakko FG-100 clone off Ebay for $18.Quote from: saturation on April 03, 2013, 06:33:45 pmYup, I bought the analog version before they were all gone. But yea they are phasing it out.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 12:10:19 pm
content: Yeah, I know. I just hate to recommend Chinese anything...especially clones. I initially dumped my old Weller because it suddenly started eating tips one year. At the rate I was trashing them, it was cheaper to give it away and replace it with a Hakko. I love my FP-101. I wonder if Weller has sorted out whatever it is they were going through? I know they moved production to Mexico. I wonder if the quality ever came back?I dunno...maybe an Edsyn? But what a lousy footprint and design from an ergonomic standpoint.....stubbornly carried over into all of their products. There's a real vacuum here if you're trying to stay out of China.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 12:16:14 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on June 19, 2013, 11:14:48 amBut even using a genuine heater, if paired with a fake tip, its still pointless, like my discovery here ->Genuine vs fake Hakko solder tip comparison

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2013, 09:38:19 pm
content: Quote from: John Coloccia on June 19, 2013, 12:10:19 pmWeller has production in numerous countries (i.e. stations in Mexico and Germany, seen tips from Bosnia, Japan, Mexico, US), and it's all slid downhill from what I've seen.Even their tips aren't that great these days, so I don't see Weller worth what they're charging these days IMHO.At least for tips, Plato offers equivalents for some of Weller's tip series that do a lot better (not sure how widely they're available outside of the US though).Not heard good things on the Edsyn stations.I can't recall any of the major players/names as being made in China though (JBC, Ersa, Pace, OKi/Metcal, Hakko, and Weller off the top of my head).

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2013, 05:35:16 am
content: I hear you. There are lots of great stations to be had. I meant staying out of China for an entry level station. Once someone commits to spending $200 or more, it picking out a station is child's play. Speaking of equipment over $200, has anyone seen Marc Siegal's video on PCB rework? I'm pretty sure it was intended to show off Pace's rework station, but it should be required viewing for anyone that touches a soldering iron.So I guess I've now thoroughly derailed this thread. My apologies.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2013, 12:34:08 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on June 19, 2013, 12:16:14 pmThat's why you also get a genuine tip too... what I'm saying is that if you want something in the form factor of the 936 then it's not that difficult to.

author: pachuma
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2014, 12:46:20 pm
content: Just in case you want to reset to factory defaults:1. Press the up and enter button2. switch on the iron3. you will see an A flashing, press up to navigate to U and press enter, select 0 + enter.All done, now you will have to configure it back to your settings.Not in the manual, got an email from Hakko.I have to agree with most of the folks, the user interface of the FX888D simply sucks. But once you get used to it, you don't usually play around the temperature settings that much. I've configured the presets to the configurations I use and that works out great.

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2014, 02:13:20 am
content: Is calibration accurate regardless of the temperature you adjust it at, or is it multi-point?Did your unit come adjusted properly?

author: pachuma
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2014, 11:06:43 am
content: Calibration seems to be multipoint.A few days back I got a tip temperature meter and made some adjustments at different temperature settings. The values looked a bit off to start (remember I did a reset to factory defaults), but after probing and setting the values for individual temperature points, they all looked reasonably spot on now.The whole thing with this station is that it is so easy to change the calibration settings. The user interface simply sucks, what on earth were they thinking about... The simplicity of the knob on the FX888 is just not there. The station its self if great and works beautifully once properly adjusted.Another word of caution is the use of fake tips of tips from Aoyue (they look to be a clone), temperature reading are way off. So if you have the intention to skimp on tips, get a tip temperature meter to adjust them.

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2014, 05:03:38 pm
content: The manual does mention to do an adjustment after changing iron/heater/tip.

author: pachuma
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2014, 06:32:05 pm
content: No it doesn't. This is just because the tips I've been testing are not the original Hakko tips. With the originals, you shouldn't need to touch them.

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2014, 07:33:47 pm
content: It's at the top of page 5 inthe manual.

author: pachuma
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2014, 10:45:56 pm
content: Yes it does! Thanks for highlighting it. It did seem bizarre some of the results I was getting with the non-official hakko tips.Nothing like paying close attention to the manual.I am wandering how much the originals tips differ in temperature. If they differ substantially, to change tips you'll need to get a tip temperature meter. The chisel tips I've used don't differ too much though.

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 18, 2014, 07:13:30 am
content: I think my genuine hakko FX-951 has the worst menu system. My weller WSD80 is just perfect, you can't alter any options without the calibration unit plugged in.

author: aabbcc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2018, 09:07:45 am
content: Old thread, but I accidently messed up the temp calibration on mine yesterday. A factory reset wouldn't solve my issues I guess and I don't really have time to wait for the HAKKO FG-100 clone

author: Terry01
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2018, 09:44:11 am
content: Quote from: aabbcc on March 28, 2018, 09:07:45 amhttps://youtu.be/ecH4c6NdBuoI think this sets the temp near enough. If it's a factory reset it's surely how it leaves the factory? It will be closer than if you've pheked it up right?Hope it helps buddy...

author: aabbcc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2018, 01:17:03 pm
content: Quote from: Terry01 on March 28, 2018, 09:44:11 amThanks! Will try the factory reset then, and yea I would assume factory reset=same state as I received it in.

author: HobGoblyn
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 26, 2020, 09:41:51 am
content: Old thread, but did the same as others.Turned on my new 888D without reading the manual (well pretty useless piece of paper), and thought pressing the up button would increase the temperature.When nothing happened I held the up button in for a couple of secs, it then came up with “ADJ”. Thankfully at that point I checked the manual. Very stupid interface, calibration mode shouldn’t be that easy to get into. On the other hand, trying to work out how preset mode works, requires watching YouTube vids.But it’s my first proper iron and I am happy with the performance

author: Terry01
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2020, 11:40:25 am
content: It's actually quite easy to use once you get used to it.