hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
please help me find "Micro JST MX 1.25mm" on JLCPCB parts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Odd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2025, 10:36:05 am
content: This connector is apparently a "Micro JST MX 1.25mm"at least it is easy to google as that.However:https://www.jst-mfg.comdoes not seem to have any "MX"https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002284831097.htmlI fail to locate a suitable vertical PCB connector for it on JLCPCB parts or LCSC.

author: squadchannel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2025, 10:41:57 am
content: MX(molex) PicoBlade?

author: Odd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2025, 10:50:42 am
content: picoblade has a wider "flange" - I do not have the fans yet, but it does not resemble picoblade.

author: Odd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2025, 07:16:40 am
content: it seems like part C2973942 is what I need.

author: GavinBrooks
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 12, 2025, 04:48:01 am
content: Finding the right connector can be tricky, especially for compact designs. TheSTM32F103C6T6microcontroller is often used in tight PCB layouts, requiring proper footprint matching with connectors like Micro JST MX 1.25mm for reliable connections.

author: Odd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2025, 06:39:49 am
content: see my own reply above - I am not sure yet.
Please help me Identify SOIC-8 Bluetooth chip BP0L088 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Odd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2024, 05:20:43 pm
content: This is the manufacturer:https://www.zh-jieli.com- it is used for BT/BLE serial data.The chip is marked: BP0L088-28A2 (and the logo of the company above)pin3 is GND, 4 is antenna, 5,6 is a 24Mhz xtal. I hope two of p1,2,7,8 are simple serial RX/TXI hope to remove it and convert the instrument to USB. - having the datasheet for it would quickly tell me if the uC in the instrument provides normal serial, and would disregard this chip not responding.(it would be something else if it needed to set up communication or before forwarding the serial data.)

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2024, 02:00:12 am
content: That's likely to be an AC6328A2 according to this:https://kagaimiq.github.io/jielie/chips/andhttps://kagaimiq.github.io/jielie/chips/chip-marks.htmlDatasheet here:https://www.yunthinker.net/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/AC6328A_Datasheet-V1.0.pdf

author: Odd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2024, 07:29:13 am
content: Thank you!
Please help me identify this connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ngen33r
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 10, 2017, 01:07:08 pm
content: I cannot find who makes this connector. Please helpHas markings YH and A on the locking tabs, no other markings found via microscope.12 Pin2.0mm PitchNot JST or Molex or TE/AMP (that I could find)
PLEASE Help me identify this DC-PWR supply connector type. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Mr Stewart
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 03, 2021, 02:08:57 pm
content: It's the 8 - 20VDC input to a CCTV camera I have acquired.It has PoE capability but I have no such adaptor and intend to power it traditionally from a 'wall-wart' here.Device is an AXIS P1346–E Network Camera.There is a 2-pin header type socket. Two male pins inside, so I need a female socket of the correct compatibility.See also the attached screengrab of the 'DC power-input'from the User-Guide.Note please the triangular cut-outs notches at the top of the socket. The DC socket isthe small one, the centre one, of the three connectors shown in these photos. I'd really appreciatehelp with knowing the type. I've done some searching on RS, and Farnell to no avail.I'll need a type or brand name to chase one down, please.

author: JamesAus
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2021, 05:37:52 am
content: These are very common Phoenix style pluggable terminal blocks. It looks like either 3.5mm or 3.81mm pitch, measure and search from your favorite supplier. For example, from Digikey...Product Index > Connectors, Interconnects > Terminal Blocks - Headers, Plugs and Sockets >Type = Plug, Female socketsPitch = (As measured)Postions = 2You'll find a large assortment from different manufacturers.

author: Mr Stewart
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 04, 2021, 03:48:01 pm
content: Thanks for your reply,Yes, there are a lot of possible variants at Digikey.34,000 results at 1st look. 1300 pages off. Perhaps a bit too much variety for my likes.So, the pin-pitch on the camera side seems to be around 3·5mm.A lot of terminology I'm not used in the descriptions. It's a start, yes!?
please help me on pcb - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: justin66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2015, 06:57:27 pm
content: i felt i know something about electronics but as i dive in i see i dont know anything im here with pretty easy thing i want to build an amplifyer here is the deali bought sodium persulfate to make copper go away... i think im gonna make that liquid fine but i was looking up know to design pcb and i stuckcan you please teach me how do i do pcbs nothing spectacular its only single sided board with low pass filter and simple ICi have tda2003 with all parts necessary but i also want to add a low pass filter on it so i was dumb enough to buy 2 lm741here is the picture of both lm741 and tda1554http://www.part.lt/img/f4182d27ee5aeeaf3e7d9dcb497b5f00249.jpgi have an other project with tda1554 but im gonna manage it self if someone is willing to help me on 2003i want to make nice board so i came here asking for help and i would really appreciate it

author: picandmix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2015, 09:16:33 pm
content: Would suggest you start off in the simplest way possible and thats to use an etch resistant pen or the press on pcb transfers.The pen can be a specialist make like Dalo or a black permanent type used to write on CD discs.If you put up your country flag we could give local suppliers /examples betterFor your tda amp then just look in the datasheet and they have already given you a design which should not be hard to print and transfer to your copper board.Just lay the print down and pin prick the component holes into the copper then draw out the traces.http://www.st.com/web/en/resource/technical/document/datasheet/CD00000123.pdfAfter its dried for 30 mins or longer then etch ,again plenty of Ytubes to guide you along.If you have a proven circuit for your 741 filter you could add it onto the TDA board, but would think you will be better making it as a separate board - one step at a time.

author: justin66
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2015, 10:19:35 pm
content: thank you so much. i use to draw them with my hand and i'm sick of that i want to do it a fancy way. do you use some kind of program to draw PCB board layout because i found it difficult to find right component as well as other things in programs i have tried. the main issue is draw that PCB layout my self using app from schematics. i have no idea how to do it and it would be great to know. i don't know what info i should trust and witch i cant so i'm asking you
Please, Help me Quadcopter Z channel simulation... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ammjy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2019, 02:05:10 am
content: Hello,,,Thanks you for your time.Now, I am trying build Quadcopter Attitude + Z channel simulation with Linear Dynamics model on the Simulink of Matlab.it's meaning, 4 outputs, namely, Phi Theta Psi and Z(Height) are exsist.and I'm using PID controller block that Matlab provide.also, I am using following linear equations.phi_2dot = 1/Jx (Phi_2dot is meaning, Angular Acceleration. therefore, Phi_dot is Angular Velocity, Phi is Angle)theta_2dot = 1/Jypsi_2dot = 1/Jzandz_2dot = g - 1/m (z_2dot is Linear Acceleration and z_dot is Linear Velocity of Vertical, and z is Position z)where, Jx, Jy, Jz is moments of inertia and m is mass of quadcopter.but, problem is z channel.always output is totally unstable and has strange graph.the whole loop is in attached .pdf file. and output graph of z also attached in this post.someone Could you give some advise ?Please, let me know !!
Please help me to "decypher" simple 10GHz RF module - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Alexei.Polkhanov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2014, 05:02:38 am
content: I got an ebay item that I have purchased just out of curiosity - it is a cheap 10GHz RF module which I believe was designed to supplement IR sensors in automatic door openers and things like that. I removed the shielding and I found PCB with bunch of micro-strip elements and few surface mount components. Most of the stuff (I think) make sense to me - like stubs for impedance matching, island to remove reflections but some does not. I don't understand the purpose of white ceramic component in the top right corner. It is not connected electrically to rest of components on top layer and also shield has a metal screw position on top of it for what appears to be fine tuning. What is it for? What does it do? Perhaps someone with more microwave experience can explain me this design?I found some datasheets and photos attached.

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2014, 05:13:51 am
content: This is a dielectric resonant oscillator. The white ceramic puck is the element that determines the frequency of the oscillator.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dielectric_resonator

author: Alexei.Polkhanov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2014, 05:37:14 am
content: I see, that screw in a shield box is a magnet that creates magnetic field and makes it to resonate. Make total sense now. And the black 4-lead component next to it is an amplifier.I wonder if the fact that it (oscillator) is not electrically connected to amplifier s by design or is a defect of my unit. I understand that at microwave frequencies a tiny gap in a track on pcb will effectively work as capacitor, but usually it is better defined than in this case.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2014, 09:57:52 am
content: The white cylinder is a resonator. Think of it as a shunt LC element. It is coupled to the input line of the amplifier that is next to it to form an oscillator. The screw will adjust the frequency. Just because things aren't touching doesn't mean they aren't connected. Just think how a capacitor works where you also don't have the two terminals touching.
Please help me to identify this SMD transistor  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: madhushankarox
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 14, 2015, 04:44:09 pm
content: Can some one please help me to find this transistor or a replacement for this?Is this a BCX54-10 NPN Silicon AF Transistor?I got 2 these type of transistor on my Addzest car audio and one got exploded (which is used to power up illuminations).

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 14, 2015, 06:08:20 pm
content: Quote from: madhushankarox on October 14, 2015, 04:44:09 pmI get the same result, BCX54.

author: madhushankarox
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 15, 2015, 12:34:40 am
content: Quotehttp://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/please-help-me-to-find-this-smd-transistor.116520/#post-911172

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2015, 07:11:19 am
content: Yes I've seen that one but a 5.7GHz 2W transistor does not make sense in an audio set.

author: madhushankarox
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 15, 2015, 08:21:08 am
content: I found a transistor named BC QN and I replaced with the failed one. Everything works fine. ~3V for illumination, all works. not heating up or anything. Just normal.
Please help to find the schematics of chinese Li-Ion BMS 10s - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: user5
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 02, 2018, 11:38:46 pm
content: See photos. Needs to be repaired.

author: jbb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2018, 02:03:34 am
content: Looks like there are 10 channels with a comparator, switch transistor and 150R discharge resistor on the bottom. I guess they switch in when the cell voltages come up to threshold. On the top side we have a bunch of ? optocouplers?Not sure what the 4 TO220 devices do. Maybe pack disconnect? There seems to be a shunt resistor beside them.If the fault is in just one of the channels, you can repair by comparison with a healthy channel.
Please help, why chopper circuit is not working? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: radhika
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2018, 01:32:43 pm
content: Respected,I am Electronics student as current working on boost chopper circuit. I want to convert 3.7V to 19.5V using PWM of Arduino as shown in the attached link.According to requirements, Vin = 3.7V Vout = 19.5V, D = 81.02%, R = 50 Ohm, I = 2.5A, F = 100kHz.According to the formula, Lmin = (D((1-D)^2)R)/(2F) = 7.3uHCin = (I*D* (1-D)*1000)/(F*75m) = 50mFCout = (D)/(R*Vout*F) = 8.30nFUsing this formula I got required values, but still I am getting incorrect voltage. Is formula's are wrong or the circuit connection or the code. Where do I need to do improvement? Please guide.The Code i used for developing 81.02% duty cycle is :int ledPin = 9;void setup(){pinMode (ledPin, OUTPUT);}void loop(){analogWrite(ledPin, 206);}https://postimg.cc/image/f4kkolo0n/https://postimg.cc/image/gm6100853/

author: Wimberleytech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2018, 01:52:48 pm
content: The arduino default pwm frequency for that pin is about 500Hz. Your design requires 100kHz. In order to get a higher PWM frequency, you will need to put a little more effort into the code. Here is an article that might help:https://www.eprojectszone.com/how-to-modify-the-pwm-frequency-on-the-arduino-part1/

author: radhika
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2018, 12:51:57 pm
content: Okay, I will get code done right.But, what about the circuit components. Are they all of correct values?

author: Wimberleytech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2018, 01:29:31 pm
content: Quote from: radhika on September 05, 2018, 12:51:57 pmYour specifications seems odd: 2.5A into a 50 ohm load? That does not comport with your desired output voltage.Your output capacitor is way too low.

author: radhika
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2018, 09:29:32 am
content: Hello,As per the link given by you and I have tried building code.Here is the code,void setup(){pinMode (5, OUTPUT);pinMode(6, OUTPUT);TCCR0A = 0;TCCR0B = 0;TCCR0A = 0b01010011;TCCR0B = 0b00001010;OCR0A = 9; //Control value of 100kHz, N = 8}void loop(){analogWrite(5, 206)// 81% duty cycle;}I am using Proteus for checking output. As shown in the attached picture I an unable to get output at pin 6. Guide me for the circuit if I have attached to the wrong pin and the code.PS: Apologies for the late reply.https://postimg.cc/image/g84qnrsrr/
Please help: why is my simulation of opAmp not invoking its clamp diodes? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: cryptidlike
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 13, 2022, 04:36:41 pm
content: I am simulating an opamp circuit to see the effects of overvoltage at its non-inverting input.current source -> input capacitor -> 10Meg resistor in series -> non-inverting legThe OpAmp is AD549. When I look at its model, I see they included the clamping function here:***Non-Inverting Input with Clamp***g1 3 110 110 2 0.001RInP 3 110 Rideal 1e3RX1 40 3 Rideal 0.001DInP 40 41 diodeDInN 42 40 diodeVinP 111 41 dc 0.46VinN 42 112 dc 4.46*Now when I run the simulation, I see the non-inverting input track with the input capacitor voltage, into the kV range. I would expect it to clamp just below the voltage bias supply level. This overvoltage at the non-inverting input violates the maximum differential voltage input of the chip and I assume the chip in physical reality would already be destroyed at that violation.So why is the non-inverting input not clamping to its rail voltage and shunting the excess current from the input capacitor?

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2022, 04:45:37 pm
content: Hi,Can you attach the model to your message?Jay_Diddy_B

author: cryptidlike
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 13, 2022, 04:57:32 pm
content: Quote from: Jay_Diddy_B on May 13, 2022, 04:45:37 pmThank you, you helped identify my error. I parsed incorrectly through the ADI1 file and that clamp protection is for a different opamp model. Now I see the model for AD549 and it is difficult for me to tell, but it looks like there is not a protection diode on it.Here is the *CORRECT* opamp model from ADI1.lib:.subckt AD549 1 2 3 4 5A1 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 OTA g=0 in=.11f ink=1 incm=.0011f incmk=1M1 3 N005 5 5 N temp=27M2 4 N005 5 5 P temp=27C3 3 5 2pC4 5 4 2pC6 3 1 .2p Rpar=4000T noiselessC7 1 4 .2p noiseless Rpar=4000TC8 2 4 .2p Rpar=4000T noiselessC9 3 2 .2p Rpar=4000T noiselessA2 0 N006 M M M M N005 M OTA g=36u Iout=17u en=35n enk=55 Vlow=-1e308 Vhigh=1e308 Cout= 5.5pD1 N005 5 YD6 5 N005 YC1 2 1 .8p Rpar=10T noiselessG1 0 M 3 0 1mG2 0 M 4 0 1mR3 M 0 1K noiselessS1 N005 M 4 3 UVLOD3 N005 3 XD4 4 N005 XB3 0 N004 I=2m*dnlim(uplim(V(1),V(3)-.8,.1), V(4)+3, .1)+100n*V(1)B4 N004 0 I=2m*dnlim(uplim(V(2),V(3)-1.25,.1), V(4)+3, .1)+100n*V(2)C12 N004 0 20p Rpar=1K noiselessC2 N006 0 20p Rpar=1K noiselessL1 N004 N006 20µ.model X D(Ron=5K Roff=100G Vfwd=-1.25 epsilon=.1 noiseless).model Y D(Ron=5K Roff=1T Vfwd=2.5 epsilon=.1 noiseless).model N VDMOS(Vto=-250m Kp=4m Ksubthres=.1 noiseless).model P VDMOS(Vto=250m Kp=4m pchan Ksubthres=1. noiseless).model UVLO SW(Ron=1K Roff=100G Vt=-3.75 Vh=.25 noiseless).ends AD549*

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2022, 06:47:09 pm
content: Hi,if you post LTspice questions in the future. You can attach the .asc file. It will help you get replies.Jay_Diddy_B
Please Help with Ethernet Design! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jayalt
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2021, 04:12:32 am
content: I have designed a PoE device. I am seeing failure in my Ethernet LAN PHY chip (LAN9512 - Microchip), when I go to plug in the Ethernet cable. The Ethernet cable is connected to a PoE switch. It doesn't fail every time I plug it in.I suspected something related to inrush current / cable discharge. I used an oscilloscope with the ground reference of my PHY circuit and measured both the Ethernet TX positive (blue line) and Ethernet TX negative (yellow line) when I plugged my Ethernet cable into the circuit. Please see the attached image.A few questions:1) Why is this transient so large?2) My LAN9512 chip has max negative voltage at a signal line spec'ed to be -0.5V. It seems the ETH TX negative line is about -0.8V for ~800 nanoseconds, which is the forward voltage of the TVS protection diode I have connected to this line. Is this what is damaging my IC? Do I need to choose a protection diode that has <=0.5 forward voltage?

author: AndyC_772
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2021, 07:52:38 am
content: Please post your schematic.Without knowing anything about your design and layout, the only thing that springs to mind is that your isolation transformer might be incorrect and/or mis-wired. The Tx/Rx pairs on the PHY chip should be fully isolated from the line.
Please ID this SMD part - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Peabody
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2024, 06:33:41 pm
content: I have a 6-pin SOT size chip marked as shown below. I think it's a DC converter, but not sure which way.Thanks for any clues.

author: psydaddy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2024, 11:54:18 pm
content: LN2220Next time, to make it easier for you, take the readings and identify the package.Like:smd SOT-23-5 AMBAnd take a look on Google pictures.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2024, 03:43:33 am
content: You mean sot23-6... and here's adatasheetbut the only one I could find is in Chinese.

author: Peabody
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2024, 05:44:36 am
content: Thanks very much. Yes, I think that's it. I've confirmed the circuit, and it's indeed a boost converter. And with the feedback voltage at 0.6V, the divider resistors 75K and 10K make perfect sense.

author: psydaddy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2024, 08:17:23 pm
content: When purchasing from Aliexpress, it's advisable to buy a module for initial testing. Acquiring individual ICs from such marketplaces can be unpredictable. I concluded this after encountering several devices that were irreparable due to faulty components. I lost money on it.Buy it from LCSC if you want a good Chinese seller.Best wishes.
Please identify connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 15, 2020, 12:57:47 am
content: Can someone please identify this connector? Male part looks basically the same as Molex KK 254, except it's a bit smaller, has 2mm pin pitch and round pins. Male connector has MXB marking, 3 pin variant additionally has 5233. Female part has MXH and 5231 marking. I consider myself having pretty good google-fu but for the life of me I cannot find what it is.EDIT: I'm pretty sure it's from Molex since I just found another connector with 2.5mm pin pitch and MXI 5046 marking. And easily googled that it's Molex 5046, Mini-Latch. But for this bastard no results, nothing by brute-forcing catalogs for hours either

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 15, 2020, 03:15:58 pm
content: Hmm... according to this datasheet it should be some weirdo Micro SPOX connector which appears to be obsolete.http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/856103.pdf?_ga=2.75489234.1974430208.1594776591-328112952.1585615616https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0008700072But WTF, devices which use this connector were still in production recently. Did they get all remaining global stock of them?
Please identify these mystery connectors under back seat of BYD Seal EV - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2024, 06:59:35 am
content: Hi folks,By pulling up the base of the back seat of the Seal EV, it reveals the Li-ion 12V battery on the left hand side, and the following two connectors that are plugged into nothing on the right hand side. I would love to know what part number these connectors and their mating partners are, and what your best guesses are as to what these connectors are for? I'm really hoping connector #1 is useful for either access to the CAN bus and/or trailer brake/indicator signals, but I don't have a clue!Connector #1Connector #2Thanks in advance!

author: elektryk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2024, 07:20:41 am
content: White connector looks like TE 1674312-1.

author: rs20
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2024, 10:25:24 am
content: TE 1674312-1 is indeed incredibly similar, but ultimately not quite the same -- the retention clip is a bit different, and the bumps on the 2nd and 5th top ridges point outwards rather than inwards as is the case with the TE 1674312-1. Thanks for the pointer, though, I might be able to follow up looking for similar parts -- although I'm now worried this I'm dealing with a TE-patent-dodging knockoff of the TE 1674312-1...

author: Sorama
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2024, 10:48:44 am
content: I guess the black one is a controlled power supply for an extra amplifier (car audio) or active subwoofer.

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2024, 04:01:05 am
content: G'day rs20,Have you seen this guys videos?He seems very adapt at pulling his Seal EV internals to bits so may be able to ID your connectors.
Please identify this connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2017, 07:45:17 am
content: I would like to add a modification to my VSB door opener and preferably by not altering the existing circuit.I can do this if I create a daughter board with the type of pins shown in the photos and then route back to the original using the same connectors.Please help me identify these connector (and pins). The connectors slide onto the pins with the ridges grabbing the pins along their length.It is all quite small. (Haven't measured it yet).Thanks

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2017, 05:39:21 pm
content: They look like Vogt receptacles to me:http://www.vogtshop.ch/index.cfm?content=productData&Language=1&TreeID=ebcf0311-1496-41db-80a2-1e7402407859&sId=13f3ce74-9445-4f36-a153-5b57aa97b192For the life of me I can't find a generic name for these. I have seen them in the local mom-and-pop electronics shop, if you can't find them, you could paypal me the money and I'll buy and send them to you.That said, you can almost certainly use a wide variety of female crimp connectors on those pins, I reckon.

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2017, 07:04:38 pm
content: Maybe I am overthinking this.... let me measure the dimensions...

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2017, 10:06:15 pm
content: OK. Thanks to your info I think I have found these...PCB Contact Pins aka PCB Take Off Pinsandassociated Crimp SocketsI think my pins are around 1.5mm (maybe 1.3mm) so somewhere around 15awg

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2017, 11:04:33 pm
content: The Vogt ones I linked to come in 1.0 and 1.3mm, so probably it's the 1.3mm, then!
Please identify this device - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2020, 03:59:40 pm
content: Not sure what this is but it reminds me of a contactor.At the bottom, it says Type ST11 and it is rated at 380V, 10A.What does it do and how do I wire it?

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2020, 04:12:13 pm
content: Not a contactor but a relay.2/10-coil supply Look on the other side. It should be listed what voltage it is and if it is AC or DC.1/4-Normally closed (NC)1/3-Normally open (NO)6/5-NC6/7-NO11/8-NC11/9-NO

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2020, 08:18:38 pm
content: That is a TPDT (triple pole double throw) relay.
Please improve and critique this 555 solar charge controller design - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: bigfoot22
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2022, 08:34:52 pm
content: delete

author: mag_therm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2022, 09:06:31 pm
content: Image has low contrast against black background.

author: josuah
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2022, 09:14:11 pm
content: No idea what went wrong, maybe transparency being mishandled, since it is called "Clipboard" I assume it was copy-pasted.
Please recommend a MEMS for small angle tilt measurement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2012, 04:58:38 pm
content: Various people like Freescale and Analog Devices make MEMS accelerometers, but I wondered if anyone has had any first hand experience of using them? I am looking for one which will allow me to measure tilt angle over the range of, say, 10 degrees. At this moment, I'm not too bothered about what interface it has, could be analogue or digital like I2C or SPI.

author: slashguitar
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2012, 05:23:01 pm
content: You could try ADXL345. It has both SPI and I2C interfaces and some nice features like freefall detection. There are a lot of sample programs available on the web. The onlydisadvantage I see is the small package but you could buy a board likethis

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2012, 08:28:09 pm
content: Quote from: slashguitar on February 23, 2012, 05:23:01 pmThanks slashguitar, looks like it could be what I'm looking for.

author: tecman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2012, 08:48:48 pm
content: We have been using the Analog Devices ADIS16209. Not real cheap, but quite accurate.If you need high accuracy (~0.1 deg) look at this unit.paul

author: LukeW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2012, 05:41:58 am
content: Do you want digital output (I2C or SPI) or do you want analog output where you have to do the ADC externally?If you only want to measure angles (inclinometry) then an accelerometer with a maximum range of +/- 1g or 3g will give you the best angle resolution. You don't need one with a high acceleration measurement range.The LIS331D is a very cheap 3-axis MEMS accelerometer with digital output... it's the accelerometer used in a certain very popular brand of smartphone, so you know they'll always be widely available in large quantities at a relatively low price.In single quantities from Digi-Key (497-8327-1-ND) they're USD$3.12.The ADXL345 is a relatively high-priced device.It's also worth pointing out here that pretty much every MEMS accelerometer chip in existence comes in a pain-in-the-arse tiny leadless SMD package.

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2012, 11:38:35 am
content: Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I will get one of those break-out boards first and rig up some I2C and see how it looks. The dedicated tilt chips would be ideal but too expensive for my product.

author: janekm
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 24, 2012, 12:08:08 pm
content: My vote is for Freescale MMA8451Q... I have tested many accelerometers in recent years and this one currently has one of the best combinations of resolution, low noise, ease of use, low power consumption and low price

author: deephaven
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2012, 01:29:59 pm
content: Quote from: janekm on February 24, 2012, 12:08:08 pmThanks janekm, that does look very attractively price and good spec too.
Please suggest a 2 cell Li-Ion battery protection IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Sai teja
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2018, 10:35:38 am
content: Hello,I would like to design PCM for 2 cel Li-Ion battery pack. Here are the required features for PCM.1)Over Charge Protection, 2)Over Discharge Protection, 3)Over Current Protection , 4)Short Circuit Protection.Can someone suggest me protection IC for 2 Cell Li Ion Battery Pack? I am unable to find ICs from good manufacturers like TI and Maxim.Please help me in this regard.

author: jbb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2018, 12:38:17 am
content: It’s overkill, but TI BQ4050 does protection, balance and Coulomb count.
Please suggest a buck converter circuit. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: kimera
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2025, 11:32:15 am
content: Anyone know what IC number is used in this picture? I want to build a buck converter that supports 9-80vdc input and 12v1A output. Or if anyone has a circuit, please recommend it.Thankyou.

author: JohanH
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2025, 11:42:44 am
content: Try TI Power Design. It will suggest a circuit and components.https://webench.ti.com/power-designer/switching-regulator?powerSupply=0

author: kimera
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2025, 12:24:33 pm
content: Quote from: JohanH on January 11, 2025, 11:42:44 amIn my area, it is very difficult to find ICs that are recommended on the website.

author: kimera
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2025, 12:26:00 pm
content: Is this circuit possible to work? I wonder why pin 5 is not connected to ground.

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2025, 01:19:47 pm
content: https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/DC-DC-Converters_Texas-Instruments-LM5164DDAR_C477928.htmlthough keep in mind that a buck can only reduce voltage, so to get 12V output you at the very least 12V input

author: Konkedout
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2025, 04:18:57 am
content: Quote from: kimera on January 12, 2025, 12:26:00 pmThat circuit is a weird application of the UC3845 which appears to be sort of floating (very much not normal.) It would take some time to figure out what is intended, but right away I distrust the use of the low voltage schottky rectifier when the input can get up to 90V.What are your restrictions on what you can get? Your input voltage range requires some creativity. Either a forward or flyback converter using a transformer, or perhaps a buck converter including a gate or base drive transformer. If small size and high frequency is not required, a bipolar switching transistor might be easier to drive with a base drive transformer (as compared to a MOSFET and gate drive transformer.)There may be some IC which will make this task easier but I do not know offhand what it is. Will be more money than a UC3845.Is it OK if you use a positive ground and switch the negative side? That would probably also make your design much easier.

author: Andy Chee
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2025, 07:34:22 am
content: Quote from: kimera on January 12, 2025, 12:24:33 pmWhat ICs are available in your area? Please post a link to parts suppliers in your area, so we can determine suitable devices and circuits.

author: youngda9
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2025, 01:13:17 pm
content: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/analog-devices-inc/DC2814A-A/10668262Voltage - Output8V ~ 16VCurrent - Output3AVoltage - Input8V ~ 80VRegulator TopologyBoost, Buck
Plenty of +12v DC, no +15v DC what's the cheapest, easiest way to get +15v DC? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: salil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 02:48:31 am
content: I use a big desktop computer power supply for powering a bunch of external hard drives and USB hubs I have which all run on around ~12v DC but most of my laptops run on +15v DC - just 3v extra, what's the cheapest way to boost +12v DC to a somewhat stable +15v DC?Whether that be assembling a circuit on a protoboard, buying some pre-built module from China on eBay or something else...? Max input current would be 5A. I need about 6 of these. Thanks.

author: EE-digger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 03:12:37 am
content: You might have a look at the Linear Tech LTM4605 uModule SMPS. There is an eval board for it. Both are available from Digikey.The eval board says 12V output but the chip is adjustable and I'm 80% certain the eval board would allow you to do that.The eval board is around $65.Max output current is shown as 5A but again, check the data sheet and eval board manual (from LTC site) if you're interested.Another option, also stock at Digikey, is dc-dc modules from CUI. You can get wide input and fixed 15V output. Price is more like $130 to $180 or so.My suggestions are from the hardware design side. There may be less expensive solutions from the computer side but I;m not familiar.Den

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 03:33:00 am
content: Quote from: EE-digger on November 09, 2015, 03:12:37 amFor $65 you might as well get new laptop chargers :/To me the easiest way is to buy the official car charger for you laptop (12V nominal input). It doesn't even have to be official! The it's a matter of getting some cigarette lighter extensions, cutting them off and making an adapter for the PSU you are using.The other way is getting one of those chinese adjustable boost converters you can find on eBay. Look for the same specs you are looking.
PLJ-0802E  Schematic Needer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: joe burch
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 02, 2024, 03:51:47 pm
content: Hello - anyone have a link to a schematic for a PLJ-0802E frequency counter? I want to reprogram the format of its output as I have already done for the 6 digit counter. I already have most of the the code. Thanks for any help! Joe - K3JLS

author: salihkanber
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2024, 04:06:26 pm
content: What it says in the manual and a similar schematic is in the attachment mate.
Plotting data from data.sparkfun.com - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: lgbeno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2014, 01:39:27 pm
content: Thought that I would share my latest project, it is a web application written in Ruby on Rails but also embedded related. The site ishttp://imp.guruit is basically a tool that can be used to graph data from a phant.io server also known as data.sparkfun.com.You can also browse other peoples data streams in the "Discover" section. It also serves is a url shortener so that you can tweet a link (if you are into that) or just simple remember it so that you can type it into a friends phone or computer.Some of my favorite streams:http://imp.guru/f7http://imp.guru/fahttp://imp.guru/f8Personally I havehttp://imp.guru/f1, if is a Si7005 Temp and Humidity Sensor attached to a MSP430G2553 that is soldered onto a Anaren Air Booster pack, then this transmits the measurements back to another MSP430 that forwards the data to an Electric Imp then the Imp uploads to data.sparkfun.com. Sounds worse than it really is. Here's some pics:Sensor:Hub/Electric Imp:Next step is making more sensors!

author: JoeO
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2014, 02:18:51 pm
content: Here is your corrected last link.http://imp.guru/f1

author: lgbeno
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2014, 03:15:12 pm
content: Thanks, I edited the post to fix it
PLs help identify mystery RF components (PIN diodes, IC, inductors) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2020, 02:23:48 pm
content: Hello,I have a box stuffed full of old RF telco junk (Nokia), that contains some pretty interesting components, mostly in lots of the same value/type. So makes sense to salvage parts from, for some homebrew RF experimenting.Apart from containing shit ton of MMIC amps, RF transistors, mixers and such, there are however few components, that I couldn't identify, at least confidently. There is so many of them, it may be worth of identifying and reusing.So, fort we have the K0Q and K0L marked SOT23 devices. It seems to be PIN diodes - always used in a bunch together, likely forming a variable attenuator. I thought they may beHSMP-3830 (datasheet), but those should be marked only as "K0". The suffix Q or L .. just not sure. Couldn't find any diode that should be marked this way. Anyway, the device pinout of HSMP-3830 matches what I have. It is a single diode.Then the AD42866. Should be some kind of variable gain amp? But couldn't find any kind of datasheet for it.Last, we have two inductors. Any wild guess what manufacturer and series may it be? Both are 1206, top one is 1 uH, 2.5 ohm DC, SRF about 500MHz. Bottom one 10 uH, 3.7 ohm DC, SRF about 150 MHz.The telco junk makes heavy use of Coilcraft 1206CS inductors (those lovely purple coated ones with three color dots indicating value). The top one on the photo, measuring 1uH was used as a replacement for the 1206CS 1uH coilcraft one, on some PCBs. The measured properties matches almost exactly with the Coilcraft 1206CS. (1 uH, 2.5 R DC, 400MHz SRF min). Measuring few Coilcraft 1uH ones revelas the exact same values, including SRF in the same ballpark. May it also be Coilcraft?The 10uH one on the black core (ferrite, sticks to magnet) I don't know what they are at all. Any wild guess of manufacturer and series?Thanks as alwaysY

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2020, 10:35:57 pm
content: For the IC, contact Analog Devices.
Pls suggest BT.656 input to PAL/NTSC output video encoder chip? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Yansi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2020, 05:00:02 pm
content: Hello,there is an easy and simple way to get from analog PAL/NTSC composite video to ITU R.BT.656 video data, such asTVP5150 (datasheet). This is a small 32pin package, really simple to implement.I am looking for an equivalent simple solution to get from BT.656 down to analog video (composite or Y/C or component Y/Pb/Pr).I have probably found what I was looking for(ADV739x, datasheet), but is there anything else, that for example would be way cheaper (just single PAL/NTSC CVBS out would be sufficient)?The ADV739x seems to be a little marvel too (just as the TVP5150 is), just 32 pins, 3 DACs and any mode (CVBS, YPbPr, YC and even RGB) up to 74.25MHz pixclk - awesome HD video.Thanks for suggestions,Y.
Plug And Play Solar System - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: nikodean1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 22, 2016, 02:19:01 am
content: Hi, i'm Nicholas.I just joined this forum this evening, and was pleased to see that it's active, so I can bother you for help with my projects! (joking, I won't be a nuisance)I work on a variety of electronics projects, but most of them pertain to alternative energy and energy efficiency. Today i'm posting about a project I constructed a couple of years ago, which aims to make solar system installation easy and cheap. I'll just call it a plug and play solar system for now (although it isn't quite as close to 'plug and play' as i'd like it to be). I think/hope it can be factory-produced at a lower cost than a traditional solar installation done by hand. I've been using it all this time, and it has been working ok, however, I really want to take this concept as far as I can (i.e. make it as close to a truly 'plug and play' system as possible).Currently, you can just connect the two leads of a 12 or 24 volt solar panel to the solar input on the side, flip the power switch, and it will start supplying power to the built-in 120 volt outlets shown. It contains a 12-volt 144 Wh (12Ah) lead-acid UPS battery, inverter, charge controller, the solar input, and (soon), an MCU.The internal electronics keep everything running smoothly, however, like any other generator, it would need to be connected to a building equipped with a transfer switch (unless it is being used as an off-grid system). Transfer switches aren't terribly cheap, and have to be installed by an electrician. I intend to integrate a transfer switch in this eventually with my TI RM57 MCU development kit (as well as the necessary relay, etc), so it can be connected to a house more quickly and easily, and maybe even respond to electricity demand/supply issues on the grid by selling power whenever needed or buying it during off-peak hours to charge an EV.In addition to the transfer switch, I want to make it easy to expand, so owners can easily just pop in a battery using the colour-coded terminals, with little to no effort or installation fees. It has room for a second battery, but I am in the process of implementing extra battery plugs and the necessary circuit, so a battery can simply be thrown in with little effort.I really want everyone to be able to just drop by a hardware store, pick up a system like this, and just plug it in one day, but that will take some time and effort. Hopefully that goal will be realized in my lifetime.Bear in mind that this is a small-scale demo of the concept. So when I refer to things like powering buildings, i'm not referring to this particular unit, but the concept.Do any of you have any knowledge to share on possible issues with regulations regarding the transfer switch idea, or any other part of this project?I hope to learn a lot from you people, as i'm still learning about microcontrollers and test equipment like oscilloscopes.Thank you for your time!
Plug in replacement for drifty FET opamp - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: perdrix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2012, 09:24:15 am
content: I'm having difficulty working out how to design a composite amplifier to plug into an existing circuit where an old rather drifty FET input opamp currently fits.To clarify, when I say composite amplifier, I mean one where a chopper stabilised opamp is used to stabilise the Vos of a high speed (FET or CMOS) opamp such as an LT1022.All the application notes I can find on this subject seem to have one input and are ground referenced. This needs to work with just the signals available on the original IC - i.e. In+, In-, V+, V-, Out, Null adj1, Null adj2.I freely admit that I'm struggling here ...

author: Gall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2012, 07:21:23 am
content: Maybe I can find one for you but I have to know:* the required bandwidth and/or output V/uS* maximum input noise (nV/sqrt(Hz))* supply voltage* package, if you want a drop-in replacement

author: perdrix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2012, 12:14:56 pm
content: I wasn't looking for a drop in replacement (the OPA627 would do nicely for that but is $$$$).I'm struggling to come up with a workable design for a non-inverting composite amplifier using a chopper op-amp to stabilise the DC offset of a high speed JFET op-amp. Almost all the information I've managed to find assumes an inverting amplifier, and no consistent design approach seems to be evident. I'm more than half convinced many of the designs I've seen in my Googling would try to cancel out a DC signal as well as the offset.What I'd like to create is a small daughter board that would have the composite amplifier on it and would plug straight into the socket the old drifty (OP16) JFET opamp came out of - which means I won't have a "ground" unless I run an EC wire from the signal ground to pin 8 on the socket (which the OP16 doesn't use).
Plug Top PSU Case Pins - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: CBP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2020, 04:58:04 pm
content: Just before Maplin hit the skids I bought an empty plug top PSU case, the wall wart style case but with nothing inside. I've come to use it on a project and I'm struggling with how the pins are meant to be connected to, solder does not appear to be sticking to them no matter what I try, the hole through them to me says the wire should go through but I'm at a loss as to how I then fix the wire in place. I've tried making some sort of loop around the pin but that to me does not seem to be the right way and could shake free.These cases used to be everywhere but I can't seem to find that many now (guess there is no market for them) and obviously Maplin has since left us. All the ones I've found on the internet seem to suggest they come with flying wires on the pins but this has empty pins.Can anyone help with the correct way?Thanks..

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 12, 2020, 05:02:52 pm
content: There are PSUs with springy contacts on PCB. But this particular type looks to be meant for soldering. Probably solder does not stick because of too weak soldering iron which is unable to heat terminals enough and lack of flux.

author: CBP
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2020, 09:56:25 am
content: Quote from: wraper on April 12, 2020, 05:02:52 pmThank you, you gave me the confidence to turn up the heat a little bit (I was afraid of the pins melting out of alignment) and after heat and a lot of flux the solder did eventually stick.
plugged threw holes question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: john23
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2025, 06:56:02 am
content: Hello , I need to use plugged threw holes in my design.What is copper paste? is it the proper way to do plugged threw holes?How do I define the manufacturer the process?Thanks."Our engineers have reviewed this issue and would like to ask if you need to fill vias.When pads overlap with the drill pattern , we typically fill vias with resin. However, resin does not provide good heat dissipation. If filling vias is needed to help dissipate heat, we will fill vias with copper paste."