Better tips for a Hakko soldering iron? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: fearless
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2024, 03:09:15 am
content: After two decades of dependable service, my venerable temperature controlled Weller soldering iron died. I replaced it with a Hakko FX888Dhttps://hakkousa.com/fx888d-digital-soldering-station.htmliron. I like it -- it heats up fast, has a simple user interface, etc. But the tips that came with it are atrocious -- unlike the Weller tips, I have to work really hard to get the solder to stick to the tip (and all the problems that follow...)So my question(s): Is there a third party company that makes good quality tips compatible tips to the Hakko? Or should I cut my losses and ditch the Hakko in favor of something else?TIA...

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2024, 04:07:52 am
content: While I don't have an 888D, I've never had trouble with solder not sticking to a Hakko tip. The 888 in particular is often copied, are you sure the tips you have are genuine Hakko?If yes, have you tried just a little bit of reasonable paste flux on the tip directly to get the solder to initially wet?

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2024, 04:57:44 am
content: Quote from: fearless on May 14, 2024, 03:09:15 amThe selection and quality of the Hakko tips are the main, perhaps only reason to own the system. They're fantastic all around. If you don't like yours, something is seriously wrong--either you have fake tips (the non-Hakko tips I've tried are terrible and I only use them on garbage jobs like melting plastic) or the station is miscalibrated and is too hot or too cold. Where did you buy your FX-888D?Another thought--IDK what tips you have, but they're typically plated so that the solder only sticks to the part at the very end--and on some bevel tips, only the face. If you clean the tip thoroughly with the brass and then the sponge, when you apply a small amount of solder to the very end you should be able to clearly see which parts are plated to retain solder. There are tip-tinner compounds to clean and tin your tips if they become grungy, but I don't even know where mine is since I never need it.https://mgchemicals.com/products/soldering-supplies/tip-tinner/soldering-tip-tinner/

author: fearless
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2024, 04:25:42 pm
content: Sounds good. I'll get some flux paste to help. I should have mentioned that I'm now using lead-free solder (albeit rosin core), so I know that will behave differently. Thanks, all.

author: Buriedcode
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2024, 06:26:47 pm
content: What solder are you using? I mean the brand, number and alloy.Lead free often gets a bad rap from old timers, but for the most part, the 217C (SAC305 or similar) is just fine and behaves more or less like leaded. The slightly higher melting point of 227C (usually Sn/Cu) isn't nearly as forgiving. Add to that there are lots of really quite poor quality brands out there with very little rosin content, or even the wrong flux core so it burns off too quickly at the temperature required to use the solder.Specific details are important, like the tip type, solder, temperature you've set the iron to etc... Otherwise its anyones guess

author: SteveThackery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2024, 09:47:55 pm
content: I concur with the others: Hakko tips are top notch. Something is wrong if you are having problems with them. FWIW, I don't think you'll be able to buy any better tips than Hakko's own.By the way, I'm glad you find the user interface simple - I find it exactly the opposite! Trying to cram temperature up, temperature down, and calibrate functions into just two buttons has me permanently perplexed. 😄