Fluke 83 repair - no tension for elastomerics - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2018, 01:12:31 pm
content: I have a Fluke 83 series 1, which has the common issue of broken plastic bits which provide the tension for the elastomers for the LCD. The "top shield" had broken clips for the circuit board edges, AND the "top case" screw posts (turrets) are broken as well, so no screw tension is available either.If it were only the edge-clips to the circuit board, several thicknesses of electrical tape on the rear of the bottom shield would provide the necessary tension as soon as the screws tighten, but that option is not available.Any ideas how to repair on the cheap? This 83 was itself a "parts unit", so I am resisting buying another for parts.Thanks in advance!edit: zip-ties to the rescue. Not pretty but serviceable.

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2018, 02:31:16 pm
content: Gonzo repairs are my specialty. This one had two broken clips on opposite corners. I drilled a couple of tiny holes to line up with existing vias, and used some 30ga Kynar as a wire tie. Obviously, the wire insulation needs to remain intact.For the screw posts, that's an exercise in materials, adhesives, and ingenuity. For the 80 series, I'd be inclined to just use the yellow holster to keep it together.

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2018, 09:16:17 pm
content: Wow. Nice. The twisted side could hide under the LCD, yes? I've been obsessively buying "parts-repair" units. Had good luck so far. Got a 27FM coming next week. We'll see how that goes.Twice now lately I've found S1, the function selector on the 80 series 1, reversed 180 degrees, on an 87 a couple weeks back and again on this 83.I guess people screw up that way fairly often.

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2018, 09:26:56 pm
content: Here's my crude solution. Makes battery or fuse changes a problem, so I'm sure I'll employ some version of your solution. Thanks!edit: Of course, the rear cover cannot be secured with screws, so it does need to be retained somehow. Maybe stick with the zip-ties for this one.

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2018, 12:09:12 am
content: Quote from: mzacharias on January 06, 2018, 09:16:17 pmYes.Quote from: mzacharias on January 06, 2018, 09:16:17 pmIt's like an addiction. I'm always looking for another one to fix the last one.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2018, 01:20:20 am
content: The wire ties are an awesome Jerry Rigatoni fixFWIW, double or triple layered black or grey good quality (non goo) Duct/Duck tape (Bear or 3M brands?) around the sides of nuked post Fluke meters works well to keep them togetherWith the yellow holster on, you don't even see itThe taped up meter would/should stay together better on a severe fall too,and handle internal HV BANGS! up to a point,still a better deal than lab or field prayer... because a LOT of Flukes have cracked posts which will give way easily to a severe internal flash/zap/blunder

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2018, 02:19:29 am
content: Quote from: Electro Detective on January 07, 2018, 01:20:20 amYes... I have some really strong black Gorilla duct tape. Hmmm.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2018, 09:37:17 pm
content: I lay a foot of flexible duct tape or more on a clean flat bench, then carefully overlay a second piece on top and repeatedly 'palm over' to roll out and minimize any bubbles,it doesn't have to be perfect but hey, doesn't hurt to try and you might get lucky...Then I cut to size these 'double strength' pieces for the top, bottom and sides of the meter, and doneTo keep the math easy, cut 6 equal sized pieces per meter, using the top or bottom as the initial measurement,so you end up with top, bottom, and two pieces on each side (6)Recommended Options:trim or round off the corners of the rectangular pieces so they don't fray or lift at the cornerswipe the meter sides with isopropyl alcohol beforehand to remove any oils, and to provide a good clean base for the tape to gripand then wipe the edges/sides of placed tape, in case of slight adhesive bleed or oozing (use a magnifier)heat up the yellow holster with a hair dryer (or any heat source set to NON-MELT!)to make it behave, so the taped up meter slides in nicely without nicking at the tapeIf done right with good quality tape, you can remove and re-use these 'patches' for fuse or battery changes,and or make up a second batch for future useand possible Fluke GAS additions...It has worked for me for ages, till I get aroundthe week before neverto sorting out my fair share of Fluke 'great meter''lame cracked posts'humble inventory

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 03:38:46 am
content: I really think I need a YouTube video. I can see using duct tape but I don't visualize all that you said. Sorry if I'm being dense.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 04:23:04 am
content: Ignore the drawn out directions above and rough itCut up 6 pieces of -good/best quality- duct tape (black or dull grey/gray) each 60mm in lengthfit them to the top, bottom, and sides, as per 2 minute rush job photos belowfit the holster back on carefully so it will totally cover/hide the tape,both coupled together should keep the meter intact a wee bit better than sheared, cracked or brittle postsproduction dumbassery going strong for... 30 years?back in businessANDmost important... looking good again

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 11:57:14 am
content: Perfect. Thanks!

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 08:20:12 pm
content: The 27FM from eBay arrived. Needed a battery. Everything works. I'm a little disappointed not to have anything to repair. The fuses are even good.Voltage and current ranges work fine. Resistance is spot on.Could stand to be adjusted a tiny bit - 5.00 volts reads 4.99, dc ranges all seem to be just that teensie bit low. That's about it.Not bad for 29.95 freight included. Score!

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 10:03:10 pm
content: Score +27FM is on my Wanted List but rarely see them on Ebay here,either not many around or techs won't part with themor boxes of them marooned in some limbo status company storage warehouse, awaiting auction or dumpster

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2018, 11:13:32 pm
content: Quote from: Electro Detective on January 08, 2018, 10:03:10 pmI had one a few years back. Sold it at a loss. It's not something I needed - I prefer at least 4000 counts.Before I really knew much about multimeters I bought a Fluke 85III to replace a dead Beckman. I lucked out, since this was an almost perfect model for an audio technician. Ever since then, I've been a fan of the 80 series, but I'm up to my gills in other models.I have almost the complete 80 series, except the 83 type - only have the one, and the 87-4, which doesn't quite count for me. Have a 77 and a "Square D" 23, which is a re-badged Fluke 23, an 8840A with a very cool NASA cal sticker on the front, a Keithley 2015 THD model, and various others, including a slew of analog models.I'm hopeless...

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2018, 08:40:32 pm
content: Hopeless is my middle name, but I reckon there are quite a few TEA members here that leave us in the GAS dustI like the 27FM vibe for the top and bottom OFF settings,with DC range to the left of OFF and AC on the right, which would save me a lot of thinking on some rough field jobsFor audio work the original Fluke 87 and 87V are pretty good for AC audio signals up to about 14khz, and then they gradually roll off to meet their spec for 20khzThe 8060A was/is THE meter for audio, rated up to 100khz, so you can be sure of a nice flat no BS response to 30 khz or more.189 and 289 are awesome for audio work if you can afford them, the on board logging comes in handy for tracking issuesAVOmeter 8 mk5 responds well up to about 15khz IIRC, great analogue meter with retro factorand of course an analogue storage oscilloscope and a 4 channel DSO (affordable model) lets you see and capture the audio in questionand an old school pulse/function generator is a must have, you can't start the party without one of thoseand...oh yeah, grab this 27FM manual if you haven't got it alreadyhttp://radionerds.com/images/5/58/TM_11-6625-3199-14.PDF

author: mzacharias
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2018, 10:56:56 am
content: Yup - have that Fluke manual and a bunch of others. I do notice the III manual no longer includes a schematic (if it ever did).And of course the 87V manual contains NO real service info. Sign of the times I guess.I went to finish up the 83 and discovered upon replacing the fuses that the milli-amp and micro-amp ranges were inoperative. Turns out S1 was bad. On the underside. A piece that was supposed to short out pins 8 and 9 (if I recall correctly) actually FELL OUT while I was working on the thing. Oh, well.The meter is now the functional equivalent of a Fluke 73 on steroids.And yes, I have an AVO 8 mk5 also, a beauty I bought from some guy in Germany (way overpaid). Don't really ever use it though.My favorite analog is my Bach-Simpson 635. You can see pictures of it over athttp://www.simpson260.com/635/bach-simpson_635.htmon the Simpson260.com site.It's dead-on accurate on all ranges and functions, the movement responds quick and to full value without lag or overshoot.The only issue really is that it's not the most intuitive meter ever. But it does AC and DC current to 12 amps.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2018, 11:33:34 am
content: Quote from: Electro Detective on January 08, 2018, 10:03:10 pmIf you could tolerate a Fluke 27, then you could make one out of a Fluke 25. The only difference is that the Fluke 27 has a couple of elastomeric keys for min/max and rel/delta. Internally the PCB tracks/pads are there, and it would be simple to solder thin wires to adjacent PTHs.The calibration and service manual is athttp://assets.fluke.com/manuals/25_27___smeng0000.pdfVac spec: 40Hz-2kHz +-(0.5%+3), 2kHz-10kHz +-(2%+3), 10-30kHz +-(4%+10)