FLIR MS / PS / LS thermal scope teardown by Fraser - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 03:52:48 pm
content: FLIR make a range of thermal searching and observation scopes for many uses.The unit detailed here is part of a series comprising the following:MS - Marine Scope for maritime applicationsPS - Personal Scope for trekking, hunting and general useLS - Law Scope for security and policing applicationsAll versions, except LS64, are the same hardware with the following resolutions available 240 x 180, 320 x 240, 640 x 480.I found a FLIR MS224 for sale at a very low price because it was faulty. It looked like it had had a nasty knock with scuffing to its top panel. Not one to be put off by such damage, I contacted the seller and a deal was done.The MS224 is the Marine 240 x 180 resolution 9fps model and is a respected thermal scope that is popular among mariners for visual navigation and man overboard situations. The RNLI (SAR) use such technology for the same reasons.Such a unit is not radiometric and does not present the temperature of a point on the image. This is an observation tool that is ready to use in 3 seconds ! Recording of images is not possible except via the PAL/NTSC video out port on the bottom of the unit. That is right, these units have composite video outputThese scopes have been used on Drones as they are rugged and provide the easy to transmit video signal.I fancied such a unit for wildlife observation and I can call upon more powerful thermal cameras if and when needed. The diminutive MS224 can be used to survey buildings and PCB's for the hottest or coldest points but no temperatures will be shown. A Close-up lens is easily fitted to the scopes front lens ring.I did some research on these FLIR scopes and found very little detail of what resides inside, with no teardown's. The unit was introduced in 2011 so I expected someone to have documented the interior by now. So this may the first teardown of this unit on the NET. I am expecting to find a FLIR TAU or TAU2 in the unit with a small control PCB and composite video electronic viewfinder.I have already X-Ray imaged the unit to get a good idea of how the case is constructed. I had already worked out that the lens ring was the key to getting into the case. All parts appear to be installed from the objective lens end of the casing.Well without further ado, lets start loading some pictures :-)Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 03:55:22 pm
content: X-Ray images.....

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 03:56:44 pm
content: More X-Rays

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 04:03:39 pm
content: When the unit arrived, I inspected its case for any obvious means of entry. The shape dictated that the chassis would most likely be inserted through the front in a axial fashion. A twist of the lens ring proved that this was removable and so I unscrewed it. The front case molding could then be pulled away from the scope to reveal the thermal camera core. As suspected, and shown in the X-Ray images, the chassis is held in place with self tapping screws accessed from the now opened front end of the case. The front panel is gasket sealed to the thermal core and case to prevent fluid ingress into this submersible unit.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 04:16:08 pm
content: A quick break in the pictures to discuss the units fault.What works:1. Power button2. Torch function3. FFC Flag4. EVF lit but no image5. Start-up sound6. Button back illumination7. Shut-down sequence.What does not work:The unit does not display any image or data on the EVF.This could be a simple failure between the Tau Core and the EVF. The fact that the FFC flag is operating at regular intervals suggests that the core is functioning, just no video to the EVF. There is an external video output via some contacts so I will test that output for an image. That test will help to narrow down the location of the problem. I will then remove the chassis from the case and inspect it for issues.More pictures shortlyFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 04:29:07 pm
content: A quick check proves that the thermal core is functioning fine. I connected the units video output to a CCTV service monitor and an image was present.Good result. The EVF or video path to it is at fault.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 05:17:23 pm
content: RepairedWell that was an anti-climax !I began to disassemble the scope and removed the Tau core first. I immediately noted a partially disconnected ribbon cable interface board. Had that happened as I pulled the Tau core out ? I thought not.Further investigation revealed a stretched and torn aluminium battery retaining bracket screw hole. A sure sign that the unit had been dropped and the weight of the batteries distorted the bracket. The same impact would appear to gave dislodged the ribbon cable that connects the Tau core to the scopes control PCB and EVF. Interestingly there are receptacles for screws that would secure that ribbon interface board to the casing. They are not used. I will be fitting suitable screws in those two positions.I removed the interface board and flattened the ribbon as it is actually quite a stiff material. After re-fitting it and the Tau core the scope was switched on. It now provided a clear image in the EVF and all functions are working OK. The fault was nothing more than a partially disconnected ribbon.Other observations of note....The four connector 'plates' on the bottom of the scope are not thin metal as expected, they are in fact large solid metal blocks to which the Tau interface board connects via twin gold sprung contacts.The scope is, as suspected, fitted with a standard FLIR TAU core. It looks like a TAU 2 but this needs to be confirmed.I may or may not be able to disassemble the unit further today, it is resisting my attempts to remove the battery pack, control board and EVF.We shall see how things go but no promisesFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 05:20:28 pm
content: More.....

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 05:22:33 pm
content: More....

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 06:06:32 pm
content: OK, the FLIR MS224 contains a TAU 1 thermal imaging core. It's option code decodes as below:4 320 019 H - S P CA X4 Model (Tau)3 Shutter (Standard)320 Resolution (320 x 240)019 Lens (19mm)H Lens Coating (Hard Carbon)S FPS (Slow - 9Hz)P Performance versionCA Logo typeX Expansion (None)The Tau 1 core is 320x240 pixels and FLIR have reduced it to 240x180 in this MS224. The MS324 has the full 320x240 pixels available. Same FOV with a 19mm lens fitted though so it is not masking and, like the E4, is just image processing.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 07:40:50 pm
content: Well I just took the MS224 out in the paddock and tested its range and capabilities..... Nice, very niceNo problem seeing a human at 200 metres and the resolution seems fine at 240 x 180. Far better then what I got out of my SEEK (Classic) camera. I have read comparisons between the 240 x 180 MS224 and the 320 x 240 MS324 and the reviewers said there was very little difference visible.I think I am going to like this little thermal imagerAll for the price of a night out at the theatreI am still looking at how I can extract the battery pack and associated chassis.Fraser

author: frenky
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 07:51:20 pm
content: Good stuff!

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 08:08:31 pm
content: Well the battery is outIt turned out to be just a friction fit using foam tape. The battery is a 3.7V 3400MAh lithium block.the battery dimensions are as follows:Length= 50mmWidth= 35mmHeight=21mm - 26mm Thinnest to peak of cable exit point.now that the battery is out, more damage is visible. The aluminium chassis is bent. From the look of the bend and its location, I believe the MS224 has been driven over by a vehicleThe case is a quality design and flexed rather than cracked. Sadly it was not able to prevent temporary distortion, causing the chassis kink and ribbon cable disconnection. The roughly square cross section was squashed into a trapezoid ! Thankfully the battery appears undamaged by this event. Frankly, I am amazed that the unit still worksNow time to work out how to extract the chassis. Back into the x-Ray machine she goes now that the solid masses have been removed. More X-Ray images to followFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 08:40:17 pm
content: X-Ray timeI am using the X-Ray images to find any fixings that are holding the chassis in place.You will see images that are 'broad spectrum' for detail of all densities and then some images that show only the higher density areas as I search for screws and chassis detail.EnjoyFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 08:41:35 pm
content: More.....

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 08:42:41 pm
content: More....

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 08:45:54 pm
content: More.......

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2016, 10:31:59 pm
content: I failed to extract the chassis this evening. Most odd, the X-Ray images show no fixings yet the aluminium chassis will not budge. I do not want to wreck the PCB with brute force so I will revisit this tomorrow. Once removed, the full extent of the chassis deformation will be visible and I can use my precision Jeweler hammers to knock it back into shapePictures of the repair will follow in due course. I also want to tidy up the case where it is scuffed. It is the perfectionist within me that hates to see such damage.Fraser

author: Dynamics
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 12:45:48 am
content: Fantastic breakdown! I am curious if there will be any applicable hacks to develop akin to the Ex series. Keep it up!

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 11:00:12 am
content: Quite frankly, I am surprised that this thermal scope is even working. From my assessment of the case deformation it is clear that the unit was crushed against an rough hard surface and dragged sideways with most energy applied across corners and not top to bottom. The case plastic distorted under the load, but did not break, and returned to shape upon removal of the load. Pretty resilient case material !The case deformation has caused a kink in the aluminium chassis plate but no other internal damage has been noted at this point. A small SMT inductor has suffered minor damage to its bobbin top but is still fully operational. The Tau to controller board ribbon was disconnected by the deformation of the case. The Tau core acted as internal bracing as it is very solid, with a cast aluminium case. The Lithium Polymer battery suffered no visible punctures or crush damage as it sits in the middle of the case and is protected somewhat by foam.Having inspected the troughs of the gouges in the top surface I found black tar like material. It is my belief that this scope was either driven over by a vehicle on land, or was crushed between a boats hull and a wharf. Such damage is unlikely to be from deliberate crush testing, or a ruggedness demonstration as efforts would have been made to protect the casing. Only one crush event occurred. All other areas of the case remain undamaged.She is a tough little Cookie !Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 08:36:35 pm
content: OK, The post you may have been waiting for.... the controller board and chassis is out !After much X-Ray imaging and analysis I could see that the controller PCB was secured to the button pad at one location, around the Mini USB connector. I could see the small double sided adhesive pad that was stopping me extracting the chassis. I used an old and trusty tool to pull the chassis down and out....my trusty spring hookOnce the adhesive let go, the chassis popped out with ease.With the chassis out I could see the distortion to the aluminium chassis more easily. I am pleased to report that the damage is not significant and can be repaired with some careful use of my repair hammers.An inspection of the PCB revealed no additional damage so all is good. The EVF is a neat little module attached to the rear of the chassis and easily removed after releasing two ribbon cables.Well enough of my waffle and on with the pictures. I will post a lot as this is likely the only place people will find such detail. The Chipset list will follow in due course.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 08:42:21 pm
content: Aluminium chassis damage detail. It is distorted adjacent to the EVF on the rear PCB mount.All PCB support post should be equal height.... they are not !

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 08:48:36 pm
content: Control PCB detail. Note the adhesive pad around the Mini USB connector. This is strong glue an took some effort to overcome.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 08:53:41 pm
content: EVF LCD module.....

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 09:03:44 pm
content: Close up images of specific IC's

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 09:09:47 pm
content: More PCB pictures with flash in case they provide better detail of some parts......

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 09:12:43 pm
content: My Jewelers hammers with which I will straighten the deformed aluminium chassis.I recommend a set to anyone needing to reshape intricate or delicate aluminium chassis or case parts. I also have a hardened anvil plate on which to place items being hammered.Fraser

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 09:27:21 pm
content: Thanks Fraser, as usual a wonderful contribution from you.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2016, 10:12:33 pm
content: Significant chips used on the controller/EVF driver PCB :KOPIN KCD-A210-BALCD Driver for the KOPIN VGA CyberDisplay used in the EVFAtmel 25DF64164 Megabit SPI Flash MemoryLM3S3826 ARMTI Stellaris Microcontroller with 32Bit ARM CORTEX M3 50MHz256KB Flash memory32KB SRAM

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2016, 10:44:31 am
content: The visual inspection of the controller PCB is complete.From that I have the following pictures for your interest....1. The EVF backlight pins graphically show how the chassis was distorted as they were bent away from their originally vertical position. The PCB was also twisted but some very careful twisting in the opposite direction corrected this. Always nerve racking though as SMT does not like PCB twisting !2. A small common mode choke that is connected to the Mini USB socket had been badly damaged. the ferrite is shattered. I will need to fit a new part here me thinks. The strange thing is that the winding's appear to have a ferrite chip glued to the top of them. Maybe it was originally a square and has been chipped away by the impact? More investigation will be done on this component and a replacement ordered.3. An undamaged but mystery component is present adjacent to the torch LED at the front of the unit. I do not recognise it and have not seen similar before. I thought it may be a temperature sensor but why in a clear case ? It looks more like an optical sensor of some sort ? No idea at the moment and the pcb legend of FD2 gives no clues. Any ideas ? It is fortunate that it is not damaged as I have my doubts that I could identify it.The damage to the USB common mode choke was caused by the Tau core case top crushing it. No other crush damage was found. Great force was involved though as there are indentations in the PCB plating where the chassis stand-offs cut into the surface at an angle.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2016, 10:53:20 am
content: The common mode choke looks simple enough to find. I just need to ensure that it is thin enough to avoid damage from the Tau core.Fraser

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2016, 11:22:16 am
content: Quote from: Fraser on July 08, 2016, 10:44:31 amLooks like a photodiode, a photodiode array or a 1 dimensional photodiode for position sensing (position sensitive diode, PSD) and some analogue readout/processing next to the sensor.If there are some other optical components (lenses) in front of the sensor, it could be a simple distance sensor.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2016, 11:39:35 am
content: I agree, it looks like optoelectronics but it is sealed inside a dark case with no optical path that I can see. Weird. I may do some circuit tracing to see if that gives any clues. I hate no knowing the function of this component 😄I even considered whether the PCB is used in other scopes that have optical I/O or IR remote control. I have yet to find a likely FLIR product that matches this PCB and those functions.Fraser

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2016, 12:45:11 pm
content: The orientation of the pinout is wrong, but the chip looks identical:http://media.digikey.com/Photos/AMS-Taos%20USA%20Photos/TSL2561T.JPGSo it is most likely a digital light sensor with a large dynamic range and a similar response to the human eye.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2016, 12:57:25 pm
content: Thanks bktemp,That looks very promising ! I have raised a mystery component post to see if any one else can work out what it is and why it is inside my thermal scope. The use is still a mystery to me.Thanks again for your efforts on my behalf.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2016, 01:14:21 pm
content: I have read the datasheet for the device bktemp detailed and I now have a good idea what it is for. Total overkill maybe but it would appear to monitor the rubber button backlight intensity as part of the power management of the unit ! The rubber buttons have a transluscent rear that the sensor monitors. The datasheet indicates that this is an intended use for the sensor to reduce LED backlit keypad power consumption.Over engineered me thinks but I will investigate its operation when the camera is built. Maybe the keypad only backlights in the dark ?That was a really fast component identification. Thank you bttempFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2016, 08:15:46 pm
content: The aluminium chassis has now been knocked back into shape. It was twisted and distorted so took some time to get its geometry back to factory spec. The chassis is now correctly aligned in all 3 axis and the EVF mount came into alignment as I straightened the main part of the chassis. This was a good sign that i was straightening the bits correctly without introducing more distortion. The EVF mount did need some minor attention as a hard bend had been distorted and needed correction. I have played with the chassis a couple of times but it is now at a point where any more messing with it will likely only risk overworking the metal and introducing problems. I am a perfectionist but the chassis is unseen and is definitely accurate enough for the scope.The PCB mounting stand-offs are now all at the same level with no wobble when they are placed on a flat surface. Always nice to see as it ensures that the PCB does not suffer and twisting force when it is screwed down to the mounts.Finally I gave the chassis a quick wipe with some metal polish to remove some of the working marks from the hammers. Some marks were unavoidable as significant impact was needed to push one stand-off into correct alignment.The first step in the restoration is now complete.I have decided that I will not be replacing the USB common mode choke as it actually degrades USB performance and is only for OEM EMI compliance. The choke will be removed and links inserted in its place.The case restoration will be a real challenge. It is not distorted or cracked anywhere but the deep gouges in the top panel are not something I can just 'buff out'I am considering options:1. Use a razor blade to remove the raised areas of the gouges and clean up the area as best as possible but no more.2. Remove the raised areas as above but also fill the gouges with a plastic car bumper filler. Then Paint area with grey plastic bumper paint.3. Attempt to sand the plastic to remove the gouges and then polish the plastic around the top panel. The plastic may not be suitable for sanding though.4. Melt the gouged high areas back into the troughs with a soldering iron and smooth by sanding and them polish. Called plastic welding but risky.I like the idea of using car plastic bumper repair products to restore the units case but I will first see how bad it looks with just the gouges raised ares removed and a good clean. You cannot make a silk purse out of a sows earThe unit is fully functional, that is the really important factor, not so much appearances.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2016, 10:50:56 pm
content: Regarding the mystery component that turned out to be a light level sensor, I have inspected the scopes case and front panel and discovered exactly where the sensor obtains its light feed. The LED torch built into the scope has a clear plastic window in the front panel. There is a small 'wing' protruding from one side of that clear plastic assembly and it acts as a light pipe from the outside environment to the light level sensor on the pcb.With the unit in pieces I had not correctly interpreted the position of the sensor when the PCB is installed. My badThe sensor likely controls the level of LED back lighting to the top panel buttons.Fraser

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2016, 12:32:48 am
content: There could well be some aggressive power management at play, as the camera never fully turns off. It is always in 'suspended animation' to achieve the 3 seconds turn on. Don't forget that it has an operating system in there and would take 40 seconds to turn on from a cold start.Billwww.fire-tics.co.uk

author: iampm
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 09, 2016, 04:26:02 am
content: Nice work Fraser!Is it possible to replace the 19mm lens with a 35mm lens?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2016, 10:33:46 am
content: The Tau 320 is available in two lens fitment types, Fixed and removeable.The Tau core used in the MS224 is the fixed lens mount type so sadly you cannot change the lens for another FOV. The lens mount is part of the cores front section and the lens is screwed inside it. In theory you could modify the lens tube and fit a mount but it would be complex and risky.I attach some pictures of the Tau Core used in the MS224 for info. Note that I have yet to carefully clean it so it is dirty. The MS224 does not contain a Germanium lens protector window, which is a surprise for a unit intended to be used in a maritime environment.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2016, 04:35:35 pm
content: Visited the local motor factors todayI have cleaned up the gouges in the scopes case and removed all the black tar from them. I found grit in the gouges so it was crushed against a Tarmacadam road. It still looks a bit of a mess so I have decided to apply multi grades of wet & dry paper (400 to 1500 Grit) and then fill the surface with a specialist plastic filler. Another session of sanding with wet and dry fine grit and then spraying with specialist paint designed for plastics. I elected to use bumper repair products as the MS224 grey plastic is the same material. I have already tested whether the grey plastic responds OK to sanding and I am pleased to report that ist sands well with no fluffing and good finish.The unit will hopefully end up with a dark grey top transitioning to the lighter grey plastic and yellow rubber sides.I will be removing the keypad buttons as that makes the task a lot easier and removes the risk of button damage. I purchased some more high strength double sided tape to refit the button pad after painting is completed.For anyone else intending to repair plastic casings these are the materials I am going to use1. 400, 800, 1200 and 1500 grit wet & dry paper - 50p per sheet2. Isopon Plastic Bumper fill - £ 13.50 for 100mlBut its a top notch plastic filler and you get what you pay for here.3. Hycoat Double Acrylic Bumper & Vinyl paint - available in Light Grey, Dark Grey and Black. - £2.50 per 150ml spray can.When the Motor Factors owner saw what I was repairing, he gave me a whacking great discount on all the products I neededI prefer to shop localy whenever possible to support the independent shops, and he even undercut the Internet suppliersNice chap who was just interested to see what I was working on.The hole in one rubber button will be filled with clear or white adhesive RTV.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2016, 03:13:21 pm
content: Off the repair track for the moment..... time for a modificationAs soon as I saw the lens surround on the MS224 I knew that it would have to be modified. FLIR elected to use a threaded tube to secure the front panel to the threaded TAU camera core collar. The external part of the threaded tube was, to put it bluntly, uglyIt was just a flat face with notches in it. The dust cap is a slip on affair. The design provided no option for a clip on lens cap, addition of a lens protector, or auxiliary lens.I took some measurement and realised that a 37mm camera ring would be perfect as an addition to the ugly lens tube. I found a 36mm to 37mm step up ring but a 37mm filter ring with teh filter removed would also work. I needed to open up the inner diameter of the 36mm external threaded section by 0.5mm for a nice tight sliding fit over the lens tube. Such is not needed on a 37mm filter ring but it is a loose fit on the tube.I opened up the adapter ring diameter using the simple combination of a 24mm socket with some 120, then 180 grit sandpaper wrapped around it. This the ring was rotated on this abrasive tube and the exact dimension required was reached with ease. It was not worth me running up the lathe for such a simple job. The filter ring then slid nicely over the lens tube and may be secured in place using another 37mm filter ring, extension tube, or just glued into place. The plastic lens tube lip gets sandwiched between the ring and any 37mm threaded ring that is screwed into it. I hope that makes sense.Take a look at the pictures and hopefully they explain my idea better than I can in words. What I have ended up with is a far nicer surround to the lens aperture and the ability to fit any accessory that provides a standard 37mm threaded fitting. Lens protectors and close-up lenses come to mind. Step down rings may also be fitted to suit smaller diameter accessories provided vignetting does not become an issue.I hope this little mod is of interest. I just wish FLIR had put a bit more effort into the ugly and useless lens aperture surround.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2016, 03:17:39 pm
content: More pictures.....I fitted a 37mm to 30mm step down ring to hold the new 37mm ring in place on the lens tube.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2016, 03:20:45 pm
content: The original FLIR design..... Ugly and offering no attachment point for auxiliary lenses or lens protectors.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2016, 03:30:52 pm
content: Unmodded Vs modded with a step down ring fitted. The step down will be replaced with a Germanium lens protector in a 37mm filter ring.Fraser

author: Chanc3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2016, 06:17:12 pm
content: Looking great! Would that still take this add on lens?http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=291815362742&globalID=EBAY-GBLooking forward to seeing it after the restoration!Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2016, 08:37:10 pm
content: The MS, PS and LS were not designed to take an Auxilliary lens. The HS auxiliary lens may, or may not, match the lens structure of my scope as a result. I do not know the mounting details for the HS series Auxilliary lens either. A bit if an unknown and I am happy with a 24 Degree field of view. I read that some people who went for LS64 unit that had a narrower FOV found it limiting when searching for, rather than identification of, animals.I could always fit my PM series X2 lens to the MS224....... It would work fine but those lenses are a tad large compared to the scopeFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2016, 01:59:05 pm
content: Tiny update......I have ordered a 37mm filter locking ring to go into my 37mm adapter ring and secure the lens tube in place. If doing this again, I would just buy a cheap 37mm filter, dismantle it, and mount that on the lens tube instead of the adapter I used. You have all the parts you need then.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2016, 12:41:58 pm
content: Some more accessories for my MS224 scope arrived today.1. General purpose belt pouch in Coyote Tan colour - Molle compliant attachments as with the FLIR offering.2. 37mm lens cap with lanyard3. 37mm UV filter (came with lens cap cheap) for modification to auxilliary lens holder4. 37mm filter holder for auxilliary lens projects.5. Additional 37mm filter retainer ring for my lens tube modification (sent free with filter holder)6. 37mm Lens Hood. Not strictly needed for a thermal scope but it provides drop and rain protection for the lens.I looked at FLIR prices for a pouch and was unimpressed. My Mil-Tec Molle compatible pouch cost just £10 delivered, compared to the FLIR version costing almost £30 + delivery. A no brainer and mine does not advertise the valuable contentsThe Mil-Tec product is very nice quality, with a snow skirt and it is rainproof. These are used by the hunting and Air Soft communities.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280924303165?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2016, 08:05:13 pm
content: This restoration is on hold for the minute as there is a case donor in the offing. If I receive it I will likely install my units innards into that case.The next time you see the scope it may well have changed colour to the PS24/32 camouflage schemeI also have a sizable multi thermal camera repair commission arriving next week so that has to take priority.I will update this thread as soon as there is news.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2016, 06:40:10 pm
content: OK, it is confirmed, a kind benefactor is gifting me the parts I need to refurbish my MS224. I will also be receiving the controller PCB, but not the Tau core.More from em when I have some news.Fraser

author: Chanc3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2016, 06:59:50 pm
content: That's great news! Glad to hear they managed to get one.Interestingly, I've just opened up an A35 camera to discover it is also a Tau core, as suspected, with a Pleora GigE module. It's quite a tidy little package, however I wouldn't trust myself to take each PCB layer apart. I'll take some photos and maybe get another thread going. The reason I mention this is that there is also a readily available A65, which of course, has the 640x512 detector it in. My thinking is that the hardware is the same (not sure how I can verify), so then it may be possible to modify it to the full resolution. There seems to be numerous mentions in the camera's settings that the resolution can go up to 640, but again I'm not sure how I could do this. I think it has something to do with Pleora EBUS SDK with custom FLIR name spaces (called sensorResolution, with up to 4 values, with 0 being 640x512). Some of the config is customisable, however many settings are locked out. I'm investigating further and will let you know if I get anywhere, then hopefully it will help modify your core to its full potential.

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2016, 11:50:56 pm
content: Can you reverse the lens design focal length / pixel pitch / pixel count / field of view ? That would tell you the sensor native pixel count ?That was the 'smoking gun' on the FLIR E4-E8 on early datasheets.Billwww.fire-tics.co.uk

author: Chanc3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2016, 09:10:22 am
content: Quote from: Bill W on July 19, 2016, 11:50:56 pmHow would I go about reversing them?

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2016, 01:16:49 pm
content: The donor FLIR scope arrived todayMy sincere thanks to the top notch Gentleman who donated it to me.I attach some pictures of the unit. You will see that it is a camouflage case which raises an interesting possibility. The donor includes everything except the Tau core and the front panel plastics. That means I now have a spare controller PCB, EVF, eye cup, chassis and lithium batteryBack to the camouflage colour scheme, as far as I know, this was a colour scheme used only on a limited number of PS32R scopes that had a longer range capability thanks to a telephoto lens. If this is the case, the donor unit will contain a PS32 firmware.So what happens when you attach a MS224 240x180 Tau core to a PS32 320x240 controller PCB ? We shall see. My Tau core is clearly marked up as a Tau320 so maybe the reduced resolution is created by commands from the Scopes controller firmware ? If so I may just have also received an upgrade to the PS32 spec scope if I use the donors PCBFurther notes on the donor unit. In line wit its 'covert' design, it does not appear to have button illumination. The visible front edge of the controller PCB is without the ambient light sensor and no unused pads are present. Interesting as this is a different version of the PCB to that used in the MS224. Could it be a Scout II I wonder ?More on this when I have time to work on the unit. I am fully committed to the repair of 21 ARGUS 2 thermal cameras at the moment though.Fraser

author: Chanc3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2016, 09:06:00 pm
content: Is the button led backlighting changeable using that program you linked to earlier? I cannot seem to find the link now.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2016, 09:12:34 pm
content: Hi Chanc3,Yes, the back lighting can be switched off using the FLIR configuration program.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2016, 09:26:46 pm
content: The FLIR configuration tool is here:https://flir.app.box.com/s/s9hqyuesr945k0bjhqemCayman is the code name for the PS/MS and LS scopes. The file is the PS32 firmware.Fraser

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2016, 10:16:43 pm
content: Can you reverse the lens design focal length / pixel pitch / pixel count / field of view ? That would tell you the sensor native pixel count. That was the 'smoking gun' on the FLIR E4-E8 on early datasheets.How would I go about reversing them?You need to run the design equations for field of view and as long as there is only one unknown you'll get the missing item.So say we know the horizontal field of view is 50° from the datasheet, and the lens has 'FL = 9mm' written on it.For this you can assume that it is a 'simple' lens.Therefore when focused at infinity the 'simple' lens must be 9mm from the sensor.Therefore centre to left/right side of the sensor is 9*TAN(25°) = 4.2mm, and the whole sensor active area is 8.4mm horizontally.If we know that this is a 25um pitch sensor from the datasheet or sensor family then:pixels = 8.4/0.025 = 336. So it is most likely a 320 x 240 sensor given the accuracy to which the lens focal length was known.Alternatively if this was advertised as a 160 resolution camera:pixel pitch = 8.4/160 = 0.0525mm, 52 umAs no-one still makes sensors at that pitch we would conclude it is really a 320 sensor at 25um pitch being downsized, or possibly a 640 @12um.Billwww.fire-tics.co.uk

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2016, 10:34:57 pm
content: Thanks for this Bill. Very interesting and helpful.Fraser

author: Chanc3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2016, 11:34:46 am
content: Quote from: Bill W on July 20, 2016, 10:16:43 pmVery interesting! Plugging that in for the spec of the Tau 324 I have here (9mm focal, 48°FOV), I get either ~800 pixels at 25um or ~1100 for 17 um.Now to see if it's possible to modify the firmware!

author: Bill W
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2016, 03:08:53 pm
content: You forgot to divide the field of view by 22*9* TAN(48°/2) = 8mm = 320x0.025Billwww.fire-tics.co.uk

author: Chanc3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2016, 03:37:31 pm
content: Quote from: Bill W on July 21, 2016, 03:08:53 pmThat makes more sense!

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 12:21:08 pm
content: I have disassembled the donor PM32 scope for inspection.It is a very different PCB layout. Not sure why yet. Initial cursory observations are that the buttons do have back lighting, or at least it is fitted on the PCB, yet no light sensor on this version. I suspect it will be set as very low level back lighting. Of greater interest is the deletion of the FLASH memory chip adjacent to the ARM microprocessor. Hmmm makes me wonder if the MS224 has on board picture capture that was not used ? Ah, whilst typing this I have had a thought. The PC24 has a freeze frame function. The PS32 has a X2 zoom function. Maybe the PS24 and 32 PCB's are different for this reason ?I am referring to the donor as a PS32 as that is what it isI managed to read the latent image of the part number on the worn label that sits on the underside of the unit.I should state that the PS32 did not switch on or charge its battery when received. A quick visual check identified a lump of green corrosion between the pins of one IC. I cleaned away the corrosion and the unit returned to operation and is currently charging its battery. This raises another matter with these scopes. Both PCB's had small spots of weird grey solder residue ? on them. It looked like the crud you rub off your soldering iron tip. The MS224 had two 'blobs' on it and this PS32 also had two blobs, but in different positions. One was between the pins of the twin LED charge indicator and another was along the side of SW2 push button switch. I will did out the pictures I took of the MS224 PCB that showed the contamination. The green corrosion between the pins of the PS32 IC was vivid green and looked like a tiny sponge. Most odd. All contamination was lifted off of the PCB's using just IPA. The location of the green corrosion will be investigated further before final assembly.As a further note, the aluminium chassis is slightly bent in the PS2. I suspect dropping these scopes caused them to bend their chassis. The damage is nowhere near as bad as that which I found on the MS224. For the price I paid for the PS32 (nothing) I am not complaining thoughOK now to the pictures of the PCB's. The MS224 still has gold test points adjacent to the torch LED. The PS32 PCB appears to have had test leads connected to its test points at some time as they have been soldered. I suspect that the PS32 was used as part of a project with the TAU and front panel separated from it. That may explain moisture getting onto the PCB ?Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 12:25:19 pm
content: More pictures

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 12:27:17 pm
content: More pictures

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 12:43:23 pm
content: The USB common mode choke is damaged on both PCB's. It is vulnerable to impact from the TAU's metal case. I will be replacing these chokes with bypass links as they actually degrade USB performance. For those unaware, these chokes are only needed for EMI compliance and the USB chipset manufacturers actually advise against their use unless essential for reasons of emissions compliance.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 01:02:29 pm
content: Pictures of the weirs deposits found on the MS224 PCB. They are not corrosion but rather some form of contamination during production.The deposits mat be clearly seen over the SW3 and U29 PCB legends. They are grey in colour and had a granular dust like appearance.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 03:51:58 pm
content: Things just got interestingI reassembled the PS32 PCB, Battery, TAU interface and TAU core.Result: The scope booted, raised an alarm and shut downI had a little suspicion about the model of TAU that had been in the PS32 so fitted my MS224 TAU 1 interface PCB.Result: The scope booted and displayed the TAU image perfectly..... BUT, the scope does light its error LED and no push button functions work.Hmmmm, interesting.I carefully observed the image being produced in the EVF. It looked clearer than I remembered on the MS224 EVF. This was more evidence of what I already suspected.A quick check on the fitted KOPIN LCD driver IC confirmed my suspicions. It is an A910 instead of the A210 fitted in the MS224/PS24. The difference is simple. The A910 is 640x480 VGA and the A210 fitted in the MS224 is 320 x 240 QVGAMy PS32 donor is in fact a SCOUT II that is normally fitted with a TAU 2, hence the issues when using a TAU 1 on it, and it upscaled to 640 x 480 resolution for a better EVF image.Well I am chuffed to have a SCOUT II but now I need to see if it is possible to convince it to work with a TAU 1. Theer are obviously differences between the TAU 1 and TAU 2 interface boards. Maybe the pinouts are different at the TAU connector ? I will have to check. I am hoping that teh TAU is just not receiving its RS232 commands due to a pinout issue.It would be great to be able to use the SCOUT II PCB due to the better EVF image and the added functionality of a composite video output capability via the USB port. This video out feature became available on the PS32R and SCOUT II PS32 so I suspect that I actually have a PS32R and that, though not stated by FLIR, it is a SCOUT II masquerading as a late model SCOUT I. All interesting stuffTo clarify:Standard SCOUT I PS32320 x 240 pixel QVGA EVFTAU 1 320 x 240 pixelsVideo output via contacts on bottom of caseSCOUT I PS32R - Camouflage colour scheme and long range lens fitted640 x 480 VGA EVFTAU 2 320 x 240 pixelsVideo output via USB socketSCOUT II PS32640 x 480 VGA EVFTAU 2 320 x 240 pixelsVideo output via USB socketThere are also the SCOUT I LS32 and LS64 scopes but those are always found in black cases.My hypothesis would also explain the completely different PCB used in PS32 donor.Sadly i must get on with other chores so more when I have time.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2016, 09:53:28 pm
content: OK, an update.I did some checking and a Tau 2 can be fitted in a Tau 1 based design. The reverse is also possible provided the additional functions of the Tau 2 are not being used. This suggests that my Tau 1 should have worked in the SCOUT II.I inspected the Tau 2 interface board and did some tests. I found an open circuit power supply inductor for the core. This explained the lack of Tau video. The inductor was replaced easily.Another test using the MS224 Tau 1 core in the SCOUT II PS32 proved successfulNow that I am using the Tau 2 interface board, the scope is happy and all functions are working fine. I now have the higher resolution EVF, USB video output and the X2 zoom function that was not available on the MS224. Whether or not I have 240 x 180 pixel resolution, or the full 320 x 240 pixels is not known yet and will take some more testing. If the controller board sets the Tau resolution I may be lucky. The Tau 1 is clearly marked up as a Tau 320 with no indication of resolution reduction in the part number.Fraser

author: Chanc3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2016, 08:58:51 am
content: That's great news - I suspect the control board is what dictates the resolution of the camera. Fingers crossed that it is and you're experiencing the 320x240 res!

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2016, 09:32:41 am
content: Quick update......1. I have confirmed my unit is a SCOUT II2. The full TAU320 320x240 pixel resolution is presented to the user3. The Viewfinder is the later 640 X 480 VGA resolution upscaled from QVGA4. The composite video output is present at the mini USB socket5. Enhanced SCOUT II firmware is loadedFeeling pretty chuffed right now.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2016, 09:45:49 am
content: A side note for those interested in the TAU camera and its resolution.FLIR do not resolution cripple TAU cores.That is to say, if you have particular model of TAU 1 or 2, it will always output its stated resolution i.e.TAU 160 - 160 X 120TAU 320 - 320 X 240TAU 640 - 640 X 480TAU 1024 - 1024 X 768FLIR fit the TAU core appropriate to the hosts spec and do not in any way reduce the resolution available at the TAU connector. So any thoughts on a TAU 640 being used in a camera specified as 320 X 240 pixels is sadly wishful thinking. FLIR insert the complete TAU core a bit like a Lego brick. It just plugs in so no need to cripple it in any way.I thought this might be interesting to fellow TAU owners.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2016, 12:36:09 pm
content: I neglected to mention..... There is no such thing as a TAU240 with 240 x 180 pixelsFraser

author: Chanc3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2016, 01:21:01 pm
content: Quote from: Fraser on July 28, 2016, 12:36:09 pmIn which case, I'm curious to know whether you can hack the old control board to get the full 320 res...

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2016, 03:49:20 pm
content: PM is on its way to youFraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2016, 07:26:44 pm
content: I have just given a home to a faulty FLIR 'H' series thermal scope. The fault is failure to boot - stuck on the initialisation colour bars.It is the fully unlocked model with image and video recording to SD card and video output. Resolution is 320 x 240 and I expect it to contain a TAU.Can it be repaired ? Well I am not certain so I am taking a calculated risk with it. If I can repair the fault, it will be a useful unit for wildlife recordingIt should arrive next week so more when it does.Fraser

author: Uho
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2016, 05:07:30 pm
content: Perhaps it is interesting to someone. To focus the lens I use the key. Inside the hole. It helps when changing lenses. For video recording - the adapter. It produces itself.

author: kanzas19
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2016, 05:48:59 pm
content: Its very interesting. Write something more details. Do you have any pictures inside camera?

author: Uho
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2016, 05:56:15 pm
content: More details

author: Uho
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2016, 05:59:07 pm
content: More details

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2016, 07:15:33 pm
content: Kanzas19.Do you want to see inside the TAU camera core ? If so, I did a tear down and repair of one from the HS324 here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/thermal-camera-teardown-the-flir-tau-320-by-fraser/msg1002518/#msg1002518Lots of picturesFraser

author: Skytracer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 30, 2018, 02:57:41 pm
content: Hello Fraser, brilliant post & happy New Years, do you know if the Flir scout uses a standard tau2 core which I can take it out of the scout and possibly use just like a regular tau2 core through the tau2 GUI.Many thanks,

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2018, 05:25:56 pm
content: MS/PS/LS Series 1 = standard FLIR TAU coreSeries 2 onwards = standard FLIR TAU2 coreFraser

author: redtop
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 14, 2020, 01:16:17 pm
content: Quote from: Fraser on July 06, 2016, 05:17:23 pmLifting a very old thread...Did you sort out the function of the connector "plates"? I understand from heavy internet lurking that one is video out and at least one is ground, but is there also one for power/charging? If possible I would like to charge my FLIR from a "hot shoe" rather than using the micro USB connector.

author: Uho
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2020, 01:29:02 pm
content: If you look at the terminals from above, then + - and video -. Mounting screw on top of the terminals. Voltage is not higher than 5 volts.

author: redtop
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 14, 2020, 03:26:16 pm
content: Quote from: Uho on January 14, 2020, 01:29:02 pmIf I get it right you mean like this?

author: Uho
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2020, 03:29:26 pm
content: Yes.

author: Uho
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2020, 08:38:01 pm
content: You can make such a mount.

author: ghost_17
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 25, 2022, 05:27:57 pm
content: Reviving an old thread - newbie here. I have (maybe had) a Scout III 320 that I thought I could replace the battery on by myself. Well, I wasn't very careful and now I have a paperweight, no battery and the motherboard is no good. Is there anything I can use the Flir sensor for at this point? Any way to view it? Yes - I'm an idiot for not being careful, now I'm in full curiosity DIY mode trying to figure out how I can avoid throwing this thing away.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2022, 03:13:10 pm
content: It is a well respected FLIR TAU imaging core that may be connected to a PC and controlled by the FLIR TAU GUI. Once configured the TAU core will boot up in the set configuration without the need for a PC. If you still want to control it in a mobile scenario you will need a simple controller, such as an Arduino, to send the Serial UART commands to the core. There is composite video output available to drive a LCD viewfinder or monitor. I have provided details of how I made my own communications adapter for the TAU core somewhere on this forum. Search for TAU or TAU repair and you should find it.If you provide pictures of the damage to your Scout III I can possibly tell you if it is indeed beyond repair.Fraser

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 26, 2022, 03:19:55 pm
content: Here you go…. My teardown and repair of a TAU 320.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/thermal-camera-teardown-the-flir-tau-320-by-fraser/Note that the TAU2 fitted in your Scout III has serial data auto polarity detection so your interface will not require the inverter IC that I used. You just need to convert USB to UART serial data at 3.3V and connect it to the appropriate pins on the TAU2 interface connector.Fraser

author: Radarjr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 08:22:43 am
content: @Fraser, I've been reviewing this and your other FLIR teardown threads, as I completed my own teardown of my RS64 Thermosight (a rifle mounted thermal). This thread has helped point me in the right direction. The desire to disassemble started with what appeared to be battery failure, which can be corrected by plugging an external 12V battery into the device via USB. FLIR wouldn't service the unit since they discontinued that model, so I postponed any teardown, until I eventually dropped the device. Now, it's accuracy has reduced to about 5-7 minutes of angle (MOA), from its original 1 MOA accuracy (all other non-thermal components were evaluated/tested). So, the battery has failed, and now something internal is loose.Regarding the battery, without an external battery, the unit will indicate fully charged, but will quickly indicate low battery and eventually shutdown. Multiple attempts to power the unit back on have mixed battery status levels and runtimes, but it always quickly drains and shuts down. I noticed my battery is exactly as yours, and was wondering if you or anyone has had any luck replacing the battery, whether as a whole, or rebuilding it from individual Li batteries? I've partially removed the wrapping from the battery pack to determine what it was made of, and I was surprised to find two additionally wrapped (metallic) battery packs, similar in size to 3- AAA batteries each. I'm not sure I should go much further into the batteries. I can tear down most things, and reassemble them, but batteries make me nervous. Any advice on their replacement? I searched a bit very late last night, and apart from a foggy eBay hit which is a gamble, I only saw speculations as to what the pack could be comprised of, all of which seemed incorrect.Additionally, I found a very loose connector pin on the button input board, which passed continuity testing from board to cable-end while outside of the housing, but it should definitely have caused some type of problem. I have reseated it.Regarding something loose... All major components of the thermal have been disassembled, and none of them were loose by any measure. That leaves the Tau 2 internals, or the LCD. Shaking the Tau only sounds like the multi-part shutter is loose as would be expected. I suppose I could dive into your Tau320 thread if I needed to dig into the core. There is a loose rattle in the LCD portion which I did not expect, but I would expect the display to show the video sent to it by the core in relation to the screen's overlay reticle. Any movement of the LCD (which is not apparent) should not affect the x,y coordinates of the displayed video. The screen rattle is where my gut tells me to look, but I assumed any error in accuracy should be introduced by the camera. What do you think about the origin of movement/loose component causing the accuracy issue?Thank you for your threads and your time.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 12:41:58 pm
content: RadarJr,With regret I cannot assist at the moment as I am on a work related deployment with no spare time.RegardsFraser

author: LaserSteve
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2023, 09:42:09 am
content: You might want to order a battery. Charge retention when off is very poor , after a few months of ownership.I love my Marine unit. However it is always attached to a charger or external battery pack. :-(Thank you for the teardown.Steve

author: Radarjr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 24, 2023, 03:36:50 am
content: I have determined the battery is composed of two 103450 Lipo batteries. I contacted MTO Battery regarding a rebuild, and received the new battery pack today for $56 including return shipping. Everything checks out minus the adhesive padding that was around the original for a tight fit. I'll have to find something similar to take up the small space between the battery pack and the housing. But it was nice finding such a rebuild company, as I've never soldered batteries.While waiting on the battery rebuild, I've been piecing the lens housing and body back together and found my observed drop in accuracy is where the lens threads onto the Tau core. The intermediate body part that stabilizes the outer part of the object lense housing against the main housing body was noticeably looser than any of the other threaded rings during disassembly. The lens body can ONLY shift where the lens body threads to the Tau. As long as I get the stabilizing part adequately tight, I think I'll be back in business.

author: hap2001
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2023, 12:54:20 pm
content: Quote from: Fraser on July 06, 2016, 05:17:23 pmIt's very interesting that TAU have different dimension as a standard one.The assembly around the sensor is also different, and the shutter is bi-stable.I just discovered this on my First Mate.

author: Petran
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 27, 2025, 02:35:15 am
content: Hi,Posting a question in an old thread as I've run into a problem.I have a PS32 where I'm replacing the KOPIN chip. While trying to remove it, I accidentally lost a component—probably a resistor—which I’ve marked in the picture. It’s a lighter blue color. Can anyone tell me its value? I’d be very grateful for any help.The lighter blue ones—are those resistors, and why are they blue?Appreciate any help. A new chip is on the way, and I’ve managed to get hold of an older Achi 6000 rework station, which I hope will help with the soldering.The original problem was that there was no image—just a light background, and you could vaguely make out some faint picture changes, along with horizontal lines covering about 80% from the left side.Best regards,Peter in Sweden

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2025, 11:48:47 pm
content: The in-circuit value of that resistor is 4.90KOhms using my Fluke 87 MkIII. The other blue resistor adjacent to it also reads as 4.90KOhms so you could remove it for more precise testing out of circuit or look at the Kopin data sheet for a likely candidate resistor and it’s recommended value. The resistor will likely be of a value higher than 4.9KOhms due to the effect of it being still in-circuit when measured. You can tack a 5.6KOhm resistor in the position and see if that reads 4.9KOhms when in circuit. The easiest way forward is to remove the other ‘4K9’ blue resistor for measurement.Fraser

author: Petran
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 30, 2025, 05:08:57 am
content: Thank you so much, Fraser! I’ll get back to you in a few days as I’m going to help my daughter and her family move within the country.Now my Kopin chip has been removed, so it’ll be interesting to compare. One strange thing I measured was that across the capacitor, which is covered by your arrow, it shows zero ohms. It’s definitely zero, so it seems like a short circuit? Feel free to measure there if possible. I believe there’s a resistor on the other side of the board, in parallel with it.I’ll get back to you — thanks again!Peter

author: Petran
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 07, 2025, 02:58:13 pm
content: Hi Fraser,Unfortunately, it took a bit of time.I'm not sure if I should burden you with questions here, and please tell me if it's not appropriate.I'm having clear issues with the board. There are many points with much too low resistance – there must be a short circuit somewhere. The resistor you measured as 4.9K, I only get 98 ohms on.Now that I've desoldered components at the spot I asked about, I'm measuring 10K there. Before, it was definitely zero ohms.It’s not easy to just quickly desolder these small parts and measure – it takes effort. I'm 70+ so it’s starting to get a bit difficult :-)I’m attaching two images showing some odd readings. These are via holes, and several of them seem to be connected in parallel. If you have time to compare, I’d really appreciate it.Maybe this is the original fault. When I later removed the board, I bent it downwards, and maybe that caused some solder joints on the A210 (BGA) to come loose. That made me lose the backlight, among other things. I assume that’s a PWM signal generated by the chip?So, no point in soldering on a new one before I've sorted out the readings.Peter

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2025, 03:19:06 pm
content: Hi Petran,No problem checking those points for you as I have a working PCB on my bench. Numerous low resistance measurements is an odd fault though.I will upload the test results later.Fraser