hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
What happened to my HAKKO FX-888D? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: learningisglorious
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 22, 2015, 03:12:05 pm
content: Hi everyone! I'm a fan of EEVblog for a long long time! This is the first time I post on EEV forum.Today, I have a question and I need your help!I bought a genuine HAKKO FX-888D for a month. Recently, I got an electric shock form the cord (the wire between the HAKKO body and the handle). I use a simple Electric Voltage Detector and apply it to the cord and the light turn on (This mean there is an electronic discharge).p/s My Hakko is not connect to the ground (In my country there is only 2 wire on the plug - not the Ground wire), I guest if I connect it to the ground it will not shock me or make the EVD turn on. But the high quality product as HAKKO still have leakage power? Unbeliveable!I wonder if it is normal or not?Sorry about my bad English.Thank you!!!!!
Engineer Pr0n, a Dave inspired teardown of a DeWalt grinder - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: superUnknown
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2015, 04:54:44 pm
content: An homage to Dave's "don't turn it on, take it apaaaaaaaaart!" Look inside a new grinder. Interesting top of the line universal motor and field winding at the 17 minute mark.http://www.reddit.com/r/Welding/comments/2s32xg
Voltera Circuit Board Printer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: 0xdeadbeef
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2015, 06:17:34 pm
content: http://volterainc.com/It is somehow interesting, but then most probably not really 100% useful.At least regarding the circuit printing part (no holes/vias, no real multilayer, no ground planes, questionable soldering quality on silver ink).Regarding the application of solder paste and reflow feature, I'm a bit skeptical to say the least.And for $1500 you can get a lot of PCBs from China plus SMD stencils if you wish.

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2015, 07:28:27 pm
content: What I want is a printer that lays down resist, so I can run a ordinary copper clad board through it, then throw it into etchant. Who wants conductive ink traces?

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2015, 02:45:29 am
content: Dude!That would be sooooo cool. Imagine making paper airplanes with blinking LED's and stuff. Even if the ink only lasts a few flights, would still be pretty cool imo.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2015, 02:55:01 am
content: Quote from: macboy on January 13, 2015, 07:28:27 pm+1And try to find a old plotter to convert.....They've all been biffed away.

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2015, 01:59:37 pm
content: Quote from: Falcon69 on January 14, 2015, 02:45:29 amDo you want to spend a few thousand on a machine to fold the paper into an airplane too? I didn't think so.So you don't need to spend $1500 on a machine to lay down a few traces to power your LED running lights.... you just need this:http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/pens/silver-conductive-8420-p/(disclaimer: I don't know if either the printer or the pen works on paper)

author: Fred27
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 14, 2015, 02:52:13 pm
content: I like the paper plane idea. A conductive ink pen and some SMT LEDs should work and a CR2032 (or maybe smaller) would be a nice weight for the nose of the plane.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2015, 03:13:30 pm
content: The name is far too close to this one...

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 12:30:15 am
content: macboy,If i had money to blow, I would, just to say I made a paper airplane using the printer and the airplane now had running lights and little lasers on it. PEW PEW!
non contact IR sensor -40c -400c - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: haydebn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 11, 2015, 09:50:29 am
content: they guys long time watcher and reader first time poster!I have started making a project, using the MLX90614 works really well!but it is too expensive! i am trying to find another sensor.I cant find any information on a "Handheld Non-Contact IR Laser Gun Infrared Digital Thermometer" to tell me what sensor the have in there.I am almost just going to buy one and rip it apart. but because i am in Germany they are like 18 euros so i cant really fork out for that.any info would be greatthanks
Fake Hakko tip: size and relative quality? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2015, 09:37:40 pm
content: Does this fake Hakko 900M look to you par for the course as far as these things go?It's also a bit longer than an authentic T18, so maybe the heating element ends up being further away from the tip:Interestingly, also with the original T18 the outer tube covering the tip, heating element, and shaft, doesn't reach all the way to the base of the shaft where the threading is.

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2015, 02:44:23 pm
content: Hi,From my experience, tips like this fake or real don't have very good thermal buffer or thermal response, but it is suitable for SMD soldering on thin copper pcb. Actually the Hakko 936/888 system has a loose coupling between the tip and thermal sensor so it isn't terrific to begin with.Don't worry too much as long as it consist of mostly copper you will be fine. Tips like this are cheap and you don't really have to worry about the coating either as long as it wets nicely which means good heat transfer.You don't want the outer sleeve to reach all the way to the bottom of the shaft. If it rests on the bottom the tip will be loose. The purpose of the outer sleeve is to ensure that the tip is making good contact with the heating element and the screw nut is there to 'tension' the outer sleeve.

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2015, 12:22:24 am
content: If you mean the specific tip shape/size, yeah, this is a 900M-T-I style. I thought it might come in handy for small SMDs.I'm not sure what's it's made of. The hollow part is barely magnetic, unlike the original Hakko. But the tip part is magnetic, I think all the way up along the straight edge to the first corner. But I meant quality in terms of finish: it's grooved and pitted.Beyond holding the tip in place, I'm not sure the outer sleeve (what Hakko calls "element cover") helps with heating element contact, because of the lip the tip element stands on. Even in the original tip the hollow part is longer than the exposed length of the heating element, so it just rests on the lip and cannot be pulled further down by tightening the outer cover:Original tip's hollow part longer than needed?And because of that lip, the fake tip's extra length means that the the business end of the tip is further away from the heater.I have a different fake tip incoming from the same seller, I'll see how that one is.

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2015, 03:21:14 pm
content: If you are worried about the heat transfer, then you can always desolder the heating element and reposition it so it extends a little further to reach the end of the tip.
lensless camera - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: artag
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 03:32:34 pm
content: Would this work at thermal wavelengths ?http://www.electronics-eetimes.com/en/rambus-readies-lensless-image-sensor-platform.html?cmp_id=7&news_id=222923661&vID=209

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2015, 02:02:16 am
content: I don't see why not.For the brief information it seems like it's a light field camera using diffraction grating, something like this:http://www.laserfocusworld.com/articles/2012/04/cornell-researchers-invent-alternate-approach-to-lytro-light-field-camera-technology.htmlThe nice thing about light fields is that you can focus at arbitrary distances and you get stereoscopic information for free, but the amount of data is big since one frame includes all of the information needed to reconstruct the image. The biggest handicap is that you loose sensor resolution, maybe the diffraction grating allows a better usage of the sensor.
Quick teardown: 2 recent chinese laser engraver controllers (RDC6442G & AWC708c) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ttt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2015, 11:35:30 pm
content: I recently acquired a cheap 60W Chinese laser engraver (500x300mm).Initially it seemed to work well, though after doing some real work the whole thing just broke down badly. The engraver uses a Chinese made controller, a RDC6442G (http://en.rd-acs.com/pro_view.aspx?TypeId=33&Id=21) The main chips used are a TI TMSC6747 (DSP) and an Altera Cyclone II FPGA. There is an ARM chip in the display module to manage the user interface.The two symptoms were heat related: 1. If the outside temperature was less than 70F the controller board simply did not boot up until the main controller board hit 70F+. 2. If the general temperature of the main controller board was higher than about 120F the controller issued bad PWM signals to the stepper motors, crashing the X/Y axis badly while ignoring the X/Y limiter switches. OK, I know, what else can you expect from cheap Chinese crap ;-)The passives on the board checked out OK and I also checked out all the solder joints. The key to trace the issue was to cool down and heat up sections of the board (using hot air & a can of CO2) until I found the culprit: The WIZnet W5300 ethernet chip. Reflowing the chip did not help and some sources online were talking about this chip getting rather hot in normal operation which I confirmed with my FLIR One (about 185F). I assume this had a negative effect on something else in the circuit.Instead of trying a replacement chip I bought a completely new Chinese controller which seems to work very well so far, a Sinjoe AWC708C Lite (https://www.sinjoelaser.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=98). Sadly all the main chip labels are lasered off.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2015, 03:24:22 pm
content: That MCU could be AT90S8515 or one of the 8051s in QFP44, the Chinese seem to like using 8051 a lot.Edit: probably the Atmel. The ISP header connects to the right pins and the reset there (also connected to the ISP header) has the right RC circuit. I can't read the crystal but that could be a good clue too.

author: Harvs
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 11:45:19 pm
content: I bought basically the same thing recently, only a "50W" version (otherwise looks identical.) It's got the same controller as yours originally did, so that's a little troubling to here.I was thinking a mach3 + smoothstepper conversion. Did you give that any consideration?
Pono Music Player Teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: K3mHtH
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 08:06:19 am
content: Raising over $6M on kickstarter, here's what's inside the Pono music player:http://mikebeauchamp.com/2014/12/pono-player-teardown/Comparing the 64GB Samsung KLMCG8WEBC-BB31 that's inside the player, vs the 128GB chip they could have put in to double the memory.. the website says: "Update: I received an email from one of the guys at Pono and they said that the 128GB chip was “much, much more expensive and would have put the price point well above $399?". Hmm, Anyone know the price of that chip at kickstarter quantities (say: 10,000pc)?

author: janekm
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 08:51:24 am
content: Hard to say with that kind of eMMC flash since the prices are very variable and there's the spot market etc...For reference on the second, likely recycled market a similar 128GB Samsung eMMC chip goes for $30-50 so taking into account retail margins etc that statement sounds reasonable. It could have been cheaper to build it around more simple NAND chips but I'm sure they had their reasons.It's certainly a beautiful PCB!
sleep mode - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kjn4685
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2014, 06:56:53 am
content: Hay guys does anybody out there in the electronic engineer s have any ideas how to put a sleep mode on a soldiering station . So when I put my iron in the cradle it will go into the sleep mode . I would appreciate it very much. And thanks to all you guys that have in the past and fortune.

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2014, 07:14:49 am
content: The Weller tweezers I have detect a magnet located in the stand. Not sure if it's a simple reed switch of something more technologically advanced like a Hall effect switch. That tells the comtroller to stop powering the twwezers. There are other irons from Weller range which do this too.

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2014, 06:59:54 pm
content: Offset the temperature sensor feedback signal so it'll appear to the controller as if it is hot, but instead it is just 100C or anything near.You'll need to put some sensor in the handle, like a hall sensor or a capacitive touch.You can also modify the setpoint. But this is very complicated with a digital controller.As a kid my soldering iron was modded with a 30 minute countdown timer that would turn it off when left on accidentally.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2014, 10:29:14 pm
content: Quote from: Howardlong on December 19, 2014, 07:14:49 amAnother method they use is to simply install a micro switch in the stand (its weight activates the switch). WDH10T or WDH20T for example are made like this.The metal rod is connected to the micro switch (plastic cradle floats on a single pivot at the top).

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2015, 09:49:43 am
content: Maybe this can give you an idea.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/pace-set-back-controls/

author: artag
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2015, 07:34:18 pm
content: Long ago, I had a Antex iron with just a simple heater, no temperature control. I didn't want it to run full strength all the time, but I didn't want it to get cold either.So I made a stand where the tip rested on a wire frame and operated a microswitch. Across 2 pins of the microswitch was a diode.When the tip was resting on the stand, the diode was in-circuit, so the element only got half the AC cycles and ran cool. When you lifted the tip, it got full power and soon warmed up.This worked reasonably well. It wouldn't work with a temperature-controlled iron, though, as the thermostat would try to make up for the lower power.
Gunnplexor from ~1975 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Alexei.Polkhanov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2014, 07:46:58 am
content: I got this gunnplexor together with some very old RF stuff. It must be some kind of proximity sensor, automatic door opener or part of something else. By date code of components I assume it is made in late 1970s. Unfortunately it has 1 or 2 components missing on board and nothing comes up on Google except opamps. If anyone knows where it from please share!Link to hi-res images:https://plus.google.com/photos/116960055711068468555/albums/6080668013301327281

author: wazzokk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2014, 10:47:46 pm
content: It looks like a rather cheap and nasty Gunn module as used in some alarm systems they were used in a similar way to PIRs and worked on the doppler principle at about 10GHz. We used to modify them to form the basis of amateur radio wideband 3cm microwave transceivers. They have gunn diode oscillator cavity with a mixer diode in front of the gunn, a reflected signal from a moving body is shifted from the base frequency (doppler shift) and when mixed with the base frequency gives a frequency proportional to the speed of the moving body (hence also used as base for radar speed detectors). Hope that helps.Regards Dave

author: Alexei.Polkhanov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2014, 12:12:48 am
content: Thanks Dave,yes I understood that it is a ~10GHz module since it has a horn attached to WR90 waveguide. Yes it is super-cheap construction. I was not able to find any references to a Gunn diode inside the cavity or detector diode. Even considering how old this thing is I was still expecting to be able to find some datasheets for diode. But no luck.Here are photos of both mixer and Gunn diode. Strangely I find that symbol is kind of wrong - it is not a n-p junction it is more like n+-n--n+. It measures 300 Ohm in one direction and 200 Ohm in reverse - which is normal for Gunn diodes although I expected it to be lower. Both branded as "ALPHA".

author: mhzghz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2015, 08:13:29 am
content: I don't think it's a Gunnplexer, it looks more like a X-band radar detector. Those are point-contact diodes to convert the radar pulses into DC voltages.
Any experience with SAIKE 8858 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Electric flower
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2014, 09:33:16 pm
content: I'm looking to buy (locally) second hand hot air station and i found this one:http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XSAIKE+8858&_nkw=SAIKE+8858&_sacat=0This one is different from 858D+ only in power supply, i think that there shouldn't be much difference but just for sake of it i wanted to know if there are any problems with this that 858D+ does not have.

author: jetwolfk2
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2015, 08:54:51 am
content: as far as going used, make sure to get a fresh heating element i would say
CD-4800 ultrasonic cleaner - unboxing, review & test - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2014, 03:48:31 pm
content: Hi,I've shot a quick video of the ultrasonic cleaner I got for christmas from my fiance. Awesome stuff for the money! The video Is what it is, because it was shot with a smartphone and I suck at editing bigtime.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 30, 2014, 04:58:49 pm
content: Thx, I am still thinking if I need one or not. Probably not. Have you tried the blue magic juice with hot water?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2014, 08:45:24 pm
content: I bought 3 cheap ones, as not working, and fixed one which had a open circuit capacitor in the power supply side. The other two had very cooked transducers, as in one burnt itself off the tank and the other shattered into shards. At least I have some spares for the other. Not the best of units, but they do clean somewhat and are nice for fine stuff, but for heavy work you clean with something else first then use it to clean fine detail.

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2014, 10:17:41 pm
content: Quote from: zucca on December 30, 2014, 04:58:49 pmNope, haven't tried it. Maybe you're right. On the other hand the concentrate i bought might be a shitty one. I don't know.I've used it later with water at room temperature to clean some terribly dirty sockets that had graphite grease, dust, dirt and so on on them and they came out almost perfectly clean.
this is how i light my Christmas tree  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: taylor12
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2014, 10:53:56 pm
content: Got this tree about a month ago from Costco and just had a feeling when i saw the power adapter made by TING SHEN might have some problems. It lasted a few weeks and began to dim down tell it stopped working all together. With just a few days left why not give it some HP quality.

author: kxenos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2014, 11:18:28 pm
content: Cool!I wish something like this could happen to me so that I can prove to SWMBO that my equipment is not "expensive garbage that takes up space and is a pain to clean"

author: electr_peter
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 23, 2014, 11:28:32 pm
content: I thought that it was Christmas gift that powers your lights.for the use of quality power supplies.

author: electr_peter
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 24, 2014, 01:56:03 pm
content: taylor12, could you do small teardown/repair with photos of that power supply?It looks like a simple transformer based supply, very little could go wrong with that (unless it is "assembled in the dark").

author: Yago
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2014, 02:23:33 pm
content: All it needs is some fake snow in the bottom corners of the panel meters!

author: mrflibble
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2014, 02:56:15 pm
content: *grin* I love it. That looks positively festive!

author: taylor12
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2014, 06:58:26 pm
content: It is a switchmode and it has the best sealed case i have ever seen i cant crack it with out getting the dremel out. Finally i get to use a piece of test gear for something "Useful"

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2014, 09:52:03 pm
content: Beware of toddlers that like to turn buttons...

author: PointyOintment
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2014, 08:47:29 am
content: Here's the patent in case anybody was curious:https://www.google.com/patents/US8047873It's about the waterproofing.

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2014, 10:10:55 pm
content: Quote from: taylor12 on December 23, 2014, 10:53:56 pmYeah, I would get scared by that power brick too...What puzzles me is the"Seasonal-Use"on the label. I understand the indoor part, or a (hypothetical) "not for continuous use for exceeding XXX hours"."Seasonal use" means what? If it is to be use in cold weather only, perhaps "not for use when temperature>xxx degree C". But "Seasonal-Use" means nothing to me except it is not good for "something".
Looking for a Current Sensor: DC & AC, High-Bandwidth, Isolation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: onemilimeter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2014, 02:28:41 am
content: Posted at wrong place... moved tohttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/current-sensor-dc-ac-high-bandwidth-isolation/Sorrie...
0,14mm² wire ferrules & crimp tool - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: conducteur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2014, 10:27:36 pm
content: Anybody here who has a descent crimp tool for these small wires?

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2014, 01:24:36 am
content: That's around 26AWG? I've used a pair of these for that size with good results:http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/terminal/Ferrules/FD2810HX.htm

author: conducteur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2014, 12:18:36 pm
content: Yeah, found the tool, but not the ferrules so tiny... Smallest i could find was Ø0,5mm.

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2014, 06:59:02 pm
content: Really? Just plain single-wire ferrules?You don't mention where you're located, but at least in the US:http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/electrical/INFERR.htmhttp://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Terminals/_/N-5g5u?P=1yzoq2x&Keyword=ferrules&FS=True

author: conducteur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2014, 08:23:00 pm
content: Quote from: ajb on December 23, 2014, 06:59:02 pmBelgium/Europe

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2014, 11:08:43 pm
content: I've been meaning to look for small ferrules for a while. Digikey also has26 AWG ferrules.
Battery Vampire good idea or crap? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Twood1130
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 09:13:53 am
content: I was browsing kickstarter today and found a device that claims it can make half dead batteries work longer. It smells like crap to me, but without looking at the device its hard to say what the creator is actually doing with his little circuit.link:https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2ndlifetech/batteryvampire?ref=categoryAny ideas on what trick he is pulling?

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 09:17:29 am
content: It's a joule thief, a common circuit.

author: Twood1130
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 09:18:14 am
content: I missed the crowdfunding section, if someone could please move or delete this post, that would be awesome.After performing a search on the corwdfund section i found that this was already covered please delete this post.

author: nixfu
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 21, 2014, 10:57:30 am
content: Fellow eevblog member Alan/W2AEW did a video about a device called the "humanalight", which is the same idea, but instead is done for helping out the 3rd world have cheap lighting sources.Check out Alan's excellent video out and see how they work, how they are designed, explanation of the joule thief circuit etc.
Trace Tool Debugger for ARM/Kinetis Cortex M - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mtechmatt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2014, 10:47:42 am
content: Hi Guys,We are after a trace debugger for the Kinetis Series of freescale processors...Couple I have seen are the Segger J-Trace or the P&E Micro Tracelink:https://www.pemicro.com/products/product_viewDetails.cfm?product_id=15320147These things are best part of £1000 however.Any other tools out there that do the same job for less, or anyone know where we could by a used system from?Cheers in advance!Matt

author: Mad ID
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 12:52:25 pm
content: There is also Keil ULINK Pro, but the price is even higher.I'm also interested in this topic so plz post if you find something

author: leppie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 05:57:29 pm
content: Quote from: Mad ID on December 20, 2014, 12:52:25 pmYou not the only one

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 08:09:29 pm
content: What's a trace debugger? Does it log the instruction stream in real time? How?

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 08:30:08 pm
content: Quote from: mtechmatt on December 18, 2014, 10:47:42 amWhat kind of problem do you want to solve?

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 08:43:15 pm
content: I have a couple of Keil ULINK2 left over from an exhibition, all boxed and unused.Half list price, VAT invoice, ship anywhere etc etc...

author: leppie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 08:58:18 pm
content: I assume the OP is referring toEmbedded Trace Macrocell - ETMwhich you normally don't get on the base model JTAG adapters.

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 09:46:37 pm
content: For tracing, you'd need the ULINK Pro.And some compatible software, which will ship only after you've paid the license using an extra mortgage.Question: why do you think you'd need these fancy gadgets?

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 10:03:56 pm
content: I also appear to have a unused Keil DS-5 PRO Edition FL software license on my desk as well... jaw droppingly expensive list price.Considerably cheaper from me...

author: leppie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 10:09:16 pm
content: Quote from: TopLoser on December 20, 2014, 10:03:56 pmDo you have a really big desk?

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 10:13:04 pm
content: Quote from: leppie on December 20, 2014, 10:09:16 pmI'll just check, might have one hidden away under all the 'stuff' I seem to have
SA standard socket outlet internals. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2015, 05:25:01 pm
content: This is an older South African socket outlet, probably around 30-40 years old. Contains a simple spring operated shutter to prevent insertion of anything other than the standard 16A plugtop.

author: leppie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2015, 05:27:54 pm
content: Boring day?That said, baby is 8 months now, gotta start thinking of plugging them holes...

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2015, 05:35:00 pm
content: Baby fingers do not fit, but you probably would be better off buying new shrouded plugtops instead. Though the most common ones I have seen are pretty poor construction wise, having contacts made out of rolled strip, and some have the earth pin made out of nickel plated steel. Some are all steel, including the power pins. Probably barely passable for a 2A load, but leave it in the socket for a while here at the coast and you will need an angle grinder to remove it.The SA plugtop with full length pins is rather prone to giving you a good belt if you grip the pins during removal or insertion if it is switched on, though if your wiring is up to standard you will have a RCD to protect you. Of course if the wiring is older than Noah and was last compliant when Oom Paul was in power all bets are off.
Fujikura FSM-15R fusion fiber splicer? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dds737
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2014, 02:40:19 pm
content: Anybody has a manual for this device? Tried on few forums, no luck! Manufactured in 1997, contacted fujikura.co.uk, they don't have manual for it, too old..This is my first fusion fiber splicer, and I am lost how to use it..any help?Thanks!.

author: awallin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2014, 07:57:11 pm
content: The menu-system should be quite self-explanatory? There are lots of tutorials on youtube, e.g.you need a fiber stripping tool, strip the fiber for 3-4 cm. then clean with ethanol and clean paper until the fiber "squeaks". Then cleave (be careful to dispose of the off-cuts). Then insert the two ends into the fusion splicer and follow the instructions.Hardest thing is usually to remember to thread on the splice-protection-sleeve

author: dds737
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2014, 09:29:05 pm
content: Fusion splicer's menu is on Italian language, and seller on ebay didn't advertise that.:-) I have all stripping tools + 99,9 % Ethanol Alcohol, Kimwipes (See picture), apart disposal container for fiber off-cuts, and for that purpose I use scotch tape by glueing off-cuts and then put those in the ordinary plastic box which I will dispose in garbage container. I got hold on 2 meter fibre single mode cable which are too thin + stuffed with gel, and I think this cable is no good for the beginner like me. While I've slowly and carefully collected off-cuts, get one of them in finger, could not take it out, and finished at the hospital, where they took it outI was 100 % careful about those damn small things, but not enough. I will try to read cable designation and make some picture to explain where my problem lies with this splicer.Thanks!
Good quality base for Dremel 4000 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2014, 11:47:15 pm
content: I make PCBs and drill them using a Dremel 4000 plus a stand like this:http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0012RQG94?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpageThis stand does the job but it uses a lot of plastic bits in many places, and the tip wanders losing accuracy. On top of that the plunger handle operates a large plastic cog that mates with a crudely threaded metal rod (something like rack and pinion) and there are kinks on the way down after some use.Can you suggest a slightly better base?

author: DmitryL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2014, 11:23:28 am
content: Quote from: akis on December 17, 2014, 11:47:15 pmThe better Dremel is a Proxxon with all its stands, bells and whistlesI use Dremel for crude jobs, Proxxon for drilling with tungsten carbide drill bits; it works fine

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2014, 12:36:02 pm
content: Quote from: DmitryL on December 18, 2014, 11:23:28 amSame problem here, can you give us a link?

author: DmitryL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2014, 01:29:15 pm
content: try googling "proxxon drill", then select "images"It was a joke, by the way, proxxon stands are for proxxon tools only, they are not compatible with dremel.

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2014, 05:27:29 pm
content: I have found only this Proxxon 28606 Drill Stand MB 140/Sbut the yellow bit is it plastic? Seems a bit flimsy to me

author: DmitryL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2014, 06:43:13 pm
content: No, for MB140 yellow bit is aluminium. There is no much plastic in that stand it all. BTW, I think MB140 is discontinued, but I can be wrong.I have this one, it is not perfect, but order of magnitude better than dremel stand.Not perfect, because I managed to snap a part that fixes whole assembly on a shaft, it's an omega-shaped part made of aluminium. Had to make an analog from brass

author: Sebastian
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2014, 10:05:36 pm
content: I have a Dremel because I wanted a battery powered one and Proxxon does not have one. (At least when I bought it, maybe they do now)I think the quality is pretty good, except the stand which is really bad.There are adapters available to put a Dremel into the Proxxon stand. I don't have one, because I don't really need it, but if I did, I would get that.

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2014, 10:19:05 pm
content: Quote from: Sebastian on December 18, 2014, 10:05:36 pmExactly the same, that’s why I bought it, but stand, is bad.
Flir Lepton at Sparkfun - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2014, 10:30:54 pm
content: Sparkfun has introduced the Lepton "dev kit" - basically a breakout + module.https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13233The price is a bit nuts, though, $349?! Really?Edit:Just found another thread dealing with it:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/flir-lepton-is-now-for-sale-at-sparkfun-%28with-datasheet-and-sdk%29/

author: 3roomlab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 01:55:54 am
content: that would buy an entire FLIR 1 no ?
Manual Needed for a PACE PPS-5E Desoldering / Soldering Station !!!! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SoundBound
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 14, 2014, 10:53:53 am
content: Hello,Just picked up a used Pace PPS-5E desoldering station. Does anyone out there have a manual for this unit that they can hook me up with ?Also, does anyone know if there is a source for spare parts for this older model ?Thanks to everyone who might be able to help me out on this.Goo'DaySoundBound
Oscillofun on the Siglent SDS 1102 CML - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MartyD
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 08:30:17 pm
content: I did not expect this entry level scope to be fast enough for the task, but hey, have a look!

author: TSL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2014, 03:07:47 am
content: Ok.. that was cool how did you do that ?thanksTim

author: loneoceans
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2014, 03:30:17 am
content: Quote from: TSL on December 08, 2014, 03:07:47 amI recently got this working on my Rigol as wellBut it looks nice on the siglent with a larger display for X-Y mode.I explained a bit what I did to get it to work.

author: MartyD
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2014, 05:16:30 pm
content: @TSL:1. Google oscillofun.flac and download it, don't use compressed files as this affects signal fidelity2. Hook up the left and right audio-outputs from your computer/mp3 player/cellphone to your oscilloscopes channel 1 and 23. Put the scope in XY mode4. Press the play button5. Adjust the Volume and twiddle with your scopes trigger, vertical and horizontal settings until you get a good pictureYou may need to swap the x and y channel and/or invert them to get the right orientation.Enjoy!Marty

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2014, 08:57:31 am
content: Check out our master of this sort of stuff inGK's thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/t20347/Thread is only 7 pages long, but well worth the effort to see some of the truly stunning waveforms.
ATV71 frequency drive - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: foglie0p
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 13, 2014, 11:39:49 am
content: Hi all,I am quiet new to the forum, i might even be writing this at the wrong spot but having watched all of Dave's videos in a short time I havent seen a teardown or a talk about AC motors frequenc drives. I have quiet a few of them lying around in the shed at home and was wondering if you thought it would be good to ship him one and discover a bit more on how they are made and what they exactly do?

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2014, 04:54:19 am
content: He already tore down a small VFD some time back.

author: foglie0p
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 14, 2014, 09:58:43 am
content: Oh ok, must have missed that video, do you know what number it is, i would love to have a look at it.
Dremel 3000 fault - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mickhdh
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 18, 2014, 08:55:06 am
content: I recently saw a post regarding a nearly new Dremel 3000 that had stopped working for no apparent reason. This has happened to me twice and if this is a common fault I have found an easy fix. Take the Dremel apart and pull the black switch housing from the coil housing. There are 2 windings and one of these has possibly gone open circuit. Measure across each. The spade connectors push into the plastic outer case and locate over the winding wire. This is where it breaks. Gently try to lift each end of the winding where it enters the housing to establish which end is broken then gently pull out the relevant spade connector. Unwind the wire one revolution and scrape the insulator away. Replace wire through housing and refit spade connector. This worked for me.
Microduino development boards - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Sigmoid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2014, 07:50:26 pm
content: Hey,I recently found this nice little Arduino-compatible dev board form factor.It seems really neat, and I'm wondering if anyone has experience with them. (Like manufacturing quality, actual usability in terms of board space and stacking, etc.)https://www.microduino.cc/

author: LabSpokane
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2014, 10:56:08 pm
content: No exp with these, but the arduino pro mini clones off ebay are $2.25 delivered and one of them has a jumper switchable voltage regulator for TTL or CMOS. I've tested a bunch of them and they all checkout good so far. The quality is good as well.

author: MacAttak
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 09, 2014, 04:17:25 am
content: I've used the Microduino modules. They are fine, craftmanship is good (especially compared with a lot of other miniaturized arduino derivatives).The pin headers are standard spacing (0.1") but they aren't the normal ones you find on most Arduino boards... they are shorter "round pin" headers. I like them better than the typical cheap square headers, but just keep in mind that they are indeed different.
Cheap $7 SATA IDE external Hard Drive to USB reader - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: edy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 11:12:17 pm
content: Hi folks,Just a quick review of some cheap gear I picked up for a total of $7 off eBay from Hong Kong/China (with free shipping). It is a cable/power supply kit to allow access to IDE and SATA drives (hard drives and optical) without the need for an external enclosure. Nice quick way to read old drives to your desktop/laptop over a USB connection:I was guessing along as I was unboxing this thing, but managed to quickly figure it out, and confirmed it worked on all my old IDE and SATA drives (about 7 of them). Handy gear to have around especially if you have access to many PC's or scavenge dumpsters and tend to have lots of drives around. The main issue will be speed as USB 2.0 is way too slow normally.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2014, 08:20:52 pm
content: Just remember that you cannot plug a SATA drive in at the same time as IDE, or replace a drive from one type to another without unplugging the USB. They do hot plug though, and work well, though a copy operation of an entire drive will take a night. Very useful to have though, I have a few around. just take care that the PSU that typically comes with them is about the worst POS around. Might have a 3 pin mains connector, but only uses 2. Cheapest caps inside as well.
Teardown of KVH MV103A Magnetic Flux Sensor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Alexei.Polkhanov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 12:40:14 am
content: Here I have a tear-down of MV103A Magnetic Flux Sensor made by KVH around 95-ish (). This unit is very sensitive - I can see changes in heading if I approach it with a scribe pen with tiny magnet at about 1- 1.5 meter distance. I purchased it with idea that I can install it on my car, but now I am kind of skeptical if it will work unless I install it somewhere on a roof which will be ugly. I was able to sniff out interface which turned out to be NMEA0183 and it works with a RS232 converter that I attached to my PC through an adapter.Hi-res photos can be found here:https://plus.google.com/photos/116960055711068468555/albums/6089872851711942401They use lot of analog components in design - there are no ADC involved - everything is based on analog filtering and timing of pulses. More modern units (not sure about KVH) use ADC and process everything digitally in FPGA. Sensor itself is a high permeability core floating in some fluid so that it stays more or less horizontal. I will add some captured traces from oscilloscope later.Enjoy.

author: Alexei.Polkhanov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 04:31:52 am
content: Picture for fluxgate compass on Wikipedia shows one made by company called "Autonnic". They have a picture of a sensor with floating corehttp://www.autonnic.com/#!floating-core/cufb. I did some research couples of years ago and found that is is common for sensors found in a compasses to use floating core.

author: Alexei.Polkhanov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 06:12:24 am
content: Here I have attached missing waveforms. First one is the output from analog signal processing section located above Voltage Regulator - that is the series of 4 pulses that goes straight into CPU Input pin. I have it compared to a reference which is same waveform before I turned the unit about 20 degrees. Second image is the waveform of the drive coil and third is the amplified sense coil (current I suppose).I don't see any point poking into the digital part like trying to read the EEPROM etc. I don't think anything exciting happens there.

author: LukeW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2014, 06:19:05 am
content: Got to love that big Amphenol milspec connector.
Soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: electronics-whiz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2014, 04:50:50 am
content: I was thinking about getting something to do SMD repairs, and de-soldering things. I was kind of thinking a cheap heat gun and some attachments. I looked at hot air stations, they seem kind of small, and i don't know would do de-soldering well. I don't really understand why a rework station won't do this, besides no suction, but shouldn't it blow it back?This is just hobby maybe try to fix some smd stuff, or multiple small joints at one, if i find some larger part i want t remove maybe heating up man points s i can pull the part out. I can't really see spending like $100+ for something i may only use on occasion.My concern kind of is heatgun: too hot, blow parts around. Hot air station: too small to do de-soldeing, many cost more, and some cheaper ones are all metric etc.Nice digital control heatgun and tips about 3/4 cost of station, likely many uses beyond soldering, etc too.

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2014, 04:34:33 am
content: in my limited experience, hot air rework stations desolder stuff just fine.a plain hot-air gun is too crude of a tool to be of use if you want to keep the parts salvageable. lots of SMD parts have plastic subcomponents that a paint-stripper heat gun will gladly melt. a rework station with the proper nozzle(s) help you direct heat onto the solder joints and away from the parts themselves.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2014, 11:13:32 am
content: A hot air gun can be used to reflow and then remove SMD components in a pinch it's just not a precision tool.In order to evenly heat the pins on a surface mounted IC you need to apply an even temperature consistently and this means heat may need to be applied from the underside of the PCB if there is a large thermal mass to overcome. You also have to consider the stress to other components, warping the pcb and your experience (this is why you practice on junked boards).The minimum tools to do a proper job every time is a hot air station and temperature controlled iron. You also need wick, flux, cleaner, wipes, stainless or ESD safe tweezers and pick, the right tips and having Chip Quik, low temp paste or a solution to extend your working time like a heating pad will definitely help. For most work as long as you have access to both sides of the PCB you can get by without a heating pad if you have good thermal control.If you wish to do BGA repairs it's almost impossible to avoid a proper BGA rework station. This will solve your need for a heating pad as well.I suggest you watch all the Pace videos on their youtube channel. Many tutorials are amateur and full of bad habits such as going over the joint half a dozen times or brute force desoldering. Cutting out components makes me cringe as in most cases it's risky and not necessary. Thermal control and patience is everything.