Vintage/Classic Chassis/Mechanical Renovation/Restoration Techniques - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 22, 2015, 10:26:37 am
content: Inspired by these excellent posts in eevblog and my own very limited mainly electronic only repair of some old HP gear of mine, I thought putting some of theexceptional repair postsin one location so that it may help those about to MAINTAIN OUR HERITAGE, (OK that is a bit over the top).tautech has started an excellent 'manual collection' archive (see sticky topic) and I thought posts that look at the chassis/mechanical areas may be of interest.All credit torobrenzhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hp-3410a-ac-microvoltmeter-restoration/msg433969/#msg433969- Cal/Sticker Removal - Polishing Bakelite knobs- Polishing BNC - Engraved Dial Restoration- Texta from Vinyl - Analogue Meter Dial Repair- Scratch from Plastic/Al - Repair Al Corrosion- Panel Dent Repair3D Print Files for those lost feet, knobs, fittings - invaluable- Thanks beanflying et alhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/msg2255136/#msg2255136/High Quality Finishing 3D printed butonsetc Thanks xrunner See reply 110705https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/msg3926399/#msg3926399General Tube/CRO Wisdom!- Tek Oscilloscope Fault Findinghttp://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/tek-parts/troubleshooting-scopes.pdf/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/vintage-tek-restoration-pictures-by-martin/- Soldering Ceramic Strips - Repair Filament Transformer Tek555- Plug In Panel Repair 555 - Cleaning Tek Cover Panels- Rebuild Filer Frame Tek515 - Panel Construction Tek515- Dust Removal - Tube Placement 'Map'CRT restorationfor the brave.KE5FXhttp://www.ke5fx.com/crt.html-Extreme DMM Repairby TiNhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/restoration-glory-of-keithley-2001-dmm/?topicseenhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/repair-old-rusty-hp-3458a/- TiN A Keithly 'God' - now converting to the dark side - HP. A volt nut extreme++table of cleaning methods and potential problemsby ModemHeadhttp://mrmodemhead.com/blog/dirty-multimeter-clean-upalso - methods of getting access to various sections of Flukes- repair of 80 series Fluke terminalshttp://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-80-series-jack-assembly-rebuild/Xrunnerhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hp-3435a-extreme-makeover/- good clean of a MM, ribbon cable repairhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/wavetek-model-271-function-generator-restoration-calibration/msg959179/#msg959179/- repair of keyboard membraneXrunner and PedrodaGr8https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/keithley-179-trms-dmm-repairrefurb/- Repair of Fluke DMM and some great PLASTIC WELDING TIPS reply 72TEK SCOPE REPAIR(the warm glow of a CRT!)- 502/555 +Othershttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/vintage-tek-restoration-pictures-by-martin/- 465https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/tektronix-465-repair-and-restoration/msg85387/#msg85387https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/tektronix-465/- 485https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/tek-485-repair-and-restoration-prologue/- 2465Bhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-2465b-oscilloscope-teardownhttp://www.condoraudio.com/wp-content/uploads/Projects/Tektronix-2465B-Oscilloscope-Restoration-Repair.pdf-7603https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tek-7603-scope-w-7a18-amp-7b53a-timebase-restoration/msg172135/#msg172135HP/Agilent/Keysight Mechanical Probs- 34401 Front-Rear Switch Problemhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hpagilentkeysight-34401a-2w-problem/- 53230 Intermittent Ch 1 BNC connectorhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/comparing-two-hp-z3805a-gpsdo-10-mhz-frequencies-for-lab-use/15/see reply 28- 1980s "clacky" Button Problemhttp://www.rbarrios.com/projects/hpswitch/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/quick-fix-my-2c-fix-for-hp-button-key-(in-this-case-hp8662a)/Old Hard Drive equipment-https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/preserving-test-equipment-with-hard-drives/Old equipment Front Panel / Potentiometer Shaft Repair- Engraved Dial Repair see robrenz re 3410 link above- Glass Dial Repairhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/repro-glass-dial-scale-for-a-hallicrafters-s-38d/- Repair of twin shafts Mnementh reply 9190 on Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread ~p3683D Printing Front Panel Parts- Phillips PE1539 / PM6670 ; ch_scr uses 3D printer to great applicationhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/late-70s-early-80s-philips-test-gear-bezel-cover-replacement/Nixie Tubes- Rejuvenation (some limits)http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/different/cathode%20poisoning/cathode-poisoning.htm/- andhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/rejuvenating-nixies-some-comments-photos/VFD Rejuvenation-https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/vacuum-fluorescent-display-rejuvenation/Fluke DMM repair / restoration; MrModemhead has excellent websitehttp://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-80-series-jack-assembly-rebuild/- see xrunners work above re Fluke 179OLD AC POWER CONNECTORScubdriver and bitseeker found a great archived webpagehttps://web.archive.org/web/20160802081036/http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~hilpert/e/powerConn/index.html/Cleaning Dead Battery Goop From Terminals. Abbrev from mnementh....Scrub battery connectors and PCBs with a toothbrush (or where possible without destroying plastic, a stainless steel detail brush) and Windex (Real Windex, or the good store brand stuff that you can smell has with lots of ammonia in it) to neutralize alkaline deposits and clean battery contacts down to clean metal. Rinse with distilled water and dry on a towel on your dash in the sun, or use your hair dryer/heat gun on low as conditions demand..... smear a little silicone dielectric grease (can get cheaply from auto/car part suppliers) between the batteries and contacts to prevent corrosive relapse common with cleaned battery terminals.These 'postees' have freely shared knowledge about areas not easily found elsewhere.Edits; Links corrected, techniques described, Tek scope section addedPS As a suggestion, include a photo of the finished item, and a brief description of an included technique eg removing texta from vinyl

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2015, 01:48:43 pm
content: shameless self promotiontek-7603-scope-w-7a18-amp-7b53a-timebase-restorationhp-6114a-precision-power-supply-restorationGood link for the 3410A ac-microvoltmeter restore

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2015, 08:26:30 pm
content: Quote from: robrenz on January 22, 2015, 01:48:43 pmRubbish. You're worthy of of the respect many hold of you for your brilliant work.C'mon EEVbees where are other threads worthy of inclusion?

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2015, 11:31:25 pm
content: Thank you very much!This Tek 465 repair/restore by ModemHeaddefinitely belongs here

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 23, 2015, 12:10:41 am
content: Thanks for the link, Interesting baking soda toothpaste technique. I have used car polish to get rid of small scratches on a plastic screen before (avoiding lettering) with success but did not take before photos.

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2015, 11:39:16 pm
content: Alsohttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/preserving-test-equipment-with-hard-drives/Preserving test equipment with hard drives

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 20, 2015, 11:06:51 am
content: @TiN marvelous Keithley Repairhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/restoration-glory-of-keithley-2001-dmm/?topicseen

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 23, 2015, 03:14:58 am
content: @envisionelec and willb on vfd restorationhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/vacuum-fluorescent-display-rejuvenation/KE5FX on crt restoration 'for the brave'http://www.ke5fx.com/crt.html

author: Tim F
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2015, 06:33:30 am
content: This is probably more retro/ghetto than 'vintage' but i've done a light resto on an old SCR regulated powersupplySCR Regulated Powersupply Teardown

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2015, 09:39:17 am
content: Nice work Tim.Welcome to the forum.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2015, 01:06:58 pm
content: Just found this thread last night. Here's a couple of mine if you're interested -HP 3435A Extreme MakeoverRepair of a Vintage Simpson 461-2 DMM

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 24, 2015, 04:26:13 am
content: Thanks for sharing your work xrunner, nice cleaning tips re plastic (Mothers Mag Cleaner) and disassembly of multi pole push button switches.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 24, 2015, 05:46:50 am
content: @TiN's et al epic file re Keighley 2001https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/restoration-glory-of-keithley-2001-dmm/

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2015, 11:48:10 pm
content: Here I go again -Keithley 179 TRMS DMM Repair/Refurb

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 03:02:40 am
content: Here is a new front panel enhancement of a IET LOM-510A micro ohm meter and a transfer of a fresh calibration to a second unit.Thread link here

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 09:57:27 am
content: Excellent work guys, thanks for sharing.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 03, 2015, 10:14:24 am
content: A good resource re Nixie Tubeshttps://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/neonixie-l

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 09:51:16 am
content: The glorious Bastard TEK 24xx Scopehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-2465b-oscilloscope-teardown/with nice explanation on how to upgrade an almost done NVRAM with an FRAM

author: Addicted2AnalogTek
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2015, 01:37:04 pm
content: Ah yes, I remember this finding this thread in my venture to restore the first Tek 465 that I acquired! It wasn't much of a restore job, though - it only needed a thorough cleaning after sitting in someones garage for 20 odd years.. Otherwise it was/still is in practically mint condition mechanically/electrically. All original, too! (Well, other than the Channel 2 X100 attenuator I blew, but the new one looks exactly the same anyway!) I didn't have to replace a single tantalum on it - yet.This 468 I picked up may be the same deal, or may be a tad bit more involved. I'm going to need some outside assistance in diagnosing my small issue. (Don't think it's really worthy of it's own thread just yet..)When I bought it, it was described as "not able to read input". After a decent cleaning it almost works just fine. The only issue that it has, other than seeming to be quite a bit out of cal, is that channel 2 seems to enjoy doing "the wave" and has "the jitters". I don't know if this is a crusty adjustment pot somewhere, a tantalum going bad, just bad cal, or what. It seems to go away while I am adjusting the vertical position slowly (too slow and it's still noticeable). I tried dripping deoxit then IPA down the shaft into it and rotating (multiple cycles of this), which didn't work. I've tried jiggling/putting pressure on all the knobs/switches, etc etc. The Ch2 vert pos pot does seem to be quite a bit more loose than the CH1 pot, though.If you all think I should make a new thread for this repair, or post this stuff in a diff thread, let me know.

author: Addicted2AnalogTek
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2015, 06:07:03 am
content: Found a page regarding the restoration of the 24xx series scopes.http://www.condoraudio.com/wp-content/uploads/Projects/Tektronix-2465B-Oscilloscope-Restoration-Repair.pdf

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 25, 2015, 11:26:52 am
content: An excellent chassis repair of aKeysight E3649A PSUincluding plastics repair by HighVoltagehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/brand-new-keysight-e3649a-psu-repair-and-teardown/?topicseenEdit; Credit to Author of link

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2015, 09:06:02 am
content: Nicely documented repair and restoration of an HP 6177C DC Current Source bymotocoderhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/hp-6177c-dc-current-source-repair-and-restoration-(complete)/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 27, 2015, 11:10:32 am
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-87-button-problem/?topicseenRepair of intermittent rubber buttonsincluding other links to ModemHead's site and some suppliers of materials for repair of rubber buttons

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 02, 2015, 11:52:59 am
content: Corrosion repair to leaked battery terminalshttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/fluke-187-corroded-battery-terminals-how-to-clean/?topicseen

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 13, 2015, 10:25:23 am
content: Repair of Sticky Push Button Switch Bank by xrunnerhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/whatever-happened-to-ham-radio/390/?topicseen

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 01, 2015, 03:13:58 am
content: TiN defects to the 'dark side' ie not a Keithley and takes on a battered and bruised HP 3458A! He is brave.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/repair-old-rusty-hp-3458a/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 15, 2015, 06:58:12 am
content: Fine pcb track repair(for the well sighted!)https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/secrets-to-v-fine-pitch-pcb-trace-repair/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 12:02:27 am
content: Another discussion reHDD recoveryhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hdd-dead-on-a-hp-16702a-logic-analyzer/15/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 24, 2015, 10:01:54 am
content: c4757p takes on aTek 485beauty (but just a little past her prime)https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/tek-485-repair-and-restoration-prologue/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 27, 2015, 08:15:15 am
content: HP 34401 Front Rear Switch ProblemSymptoms = erratic ohms readings mainly in 2W modeDrFrank et al share wisdomhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/another-34401a-resistance-problem-looking-for-advice

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 08:14:05 am
content: Repair of display flex cablehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/restoring-display-flex-on-an-old-micronta-22-191/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 16, 2016, 10:42:22 am
content: Plastic "Welding"esp see replies 55 and 72https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/keithley-179-trms-dmm-repairrefurb/50/?topicseen

author: Addicted2AnalogTek
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2016, 09:06:12 pm
content: Thought this might be a good link for those who intend to repair Tek 485's, and just some good overall info regarding some of the main repairs that need to be done on them.http://rfscientific.eu/sites/default/files/articleextra/tektronix_485_repair.pdfIf you don't think it worthy for this specific list, feel free to remove it or ask me to.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 17, 2016, 03:26:26 am
content: Looks good, thanks for sharing your work, classic Tek. ?

author: Martin.M
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2016, 09:10:47 am
content: "what is a classic Tek?"the answer follows the definition of Stan Grifiths from vintage Tek in Oregon.seehttp://reprise.com/ash/clients2/classic.aspSo we can say that Tek 453/454 was the last true classic Tek made from them.453, 454 have not one integrated circuit, they are fully discrete made with transistors. It was the time of the highest quality made from Tek ever. Later Types using IC, also it was the begin of "low cost engineering", a lot of plastic parts, plastic fronts instead of anodized aluminium, IC and transistor oftenly not in sockets, and so on. There was some high classified Tek where they continue the high quality engineering (see 7k line with 4 slots), but also the typical low cost Tek, like a 465, 475 and so on. Good instruments of coarse, but made with a look to the money.greetingsMartin

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 17, 2016, 09:53:44 am
content: MaritnM, I will freely admit my Tek ignorance, thanks for the information, I found also found the tek-wiki interesting on a brief visit (probing my Tek ignorance)Still the 485 looks a nice scope and good to see it being saved from the scrap heap, I must admit my only Tek is a 2246 (fully working).

author: Addicted2AnalogTek
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2016, 01:45:12 pm
content: The webpage I linked in is not one of my repair/restores. Just some data I am compiling for my near future restorations of 3 Tek 485's I have sitting on my shelf currently (along with 465, 465B, and soon 453/454 & 7000 series). I will happily start threads for these restorations, as well as others for all of the Cal gear for said scopes that I am collecting. Most recent thread in progress is the 067-0532-00. (awaiting order of resistors, caps, etc)https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/tektronix-067-0532-00-repairrefurb/Thanks for the interest, though. I will link in those threads and any web pages I compile of the builds if you would like.I personally still consider the Tek 485 to be a classic instrument, as it's the top end of the 400 series. The 465 (with discrete vert out amp) is a definite classic. The 468 certainly is not - although I do repair them as well. ( I used one as my Tek scope repair learning platform since it is of no major classical/historical importance! ) The "500 series enclosure" style of cal-gear is definitely a true classic, of which I have several - 106, 184, 191, 284, '0502, etc) But I've get to get into the total & complete classics of the REAL tube equipment.... soon, soon.. :-)

author: Martin.M
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 05:49:28 pm
content: yeah ... look to get a 517 "big daddy"greetingsMartin

author: magnehh
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2016, 09:47:48 pm
content: A little mini-guide here:How to fix encoder knob on Agilent 33220A1. Take the whole generator apart. Separate the front panel PCB from the plastic front panel.2. Carefully bend up the tabs holding the encoder together. Do not bend them farther than just enough to lift the top cover off!3. With a 1mm flat head screwdriver, carefully bend the wiper contacts a smidgeon upwards. Only a little is usually enough.4. Optionally, wipe the encoder disc with a clean paper towel. Take care not to leave any traces of paper or other crud from outside in there.5. Put it all back together.This is how I got mine to work anyway. The problem is usually NOT the ADC located in the back corner of the main board, as many people seem to think.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 01, 2016, 10:54:27 pm
content: Good Delrin and plastic bonding comments/advicehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/delrin-repair/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 21, 2016, 11:17:40 pm
content: Old HP 'clacking' type button repairhttp://www.rbarrios.com/projects/hpswitch/

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2016, 01:02:22 am
content: Quote from: VK5RC on March 21, 2016, 11:17:40 pmOh thank you - I may have a need for this fix!

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 22, 2016, 08:01:14 am
content: No worries, I saw this post, it has a few other good suggestions, worth a look.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/hp-5335a-non-working-enter-key/

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2016, 12:16:34 pm
content: Quote from: VK5RC on March 22, 2016, 08:01:14 amI've watched his video about 20 times and I swear I cannot see what he did to make the spring work right. Whatever he does is out of the camera. I've watched the spring flex before and after the "fix" and it looks like it acts the same. If there is any difference it sure is small. All I hear is the difference in sound that indicates it works better. I may have to try what I can however, because all the switches on my 5334B are hard to push.

author: Turbon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2016, 02:23:28 pm
content: xrunner, have a look athttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/hp-5335a-non-working-enter-key/the last posts. You have to bend the strip a bit beyond that the button does to get a smal prebend on the strip. As I found out one doesn't need to take the strip out.Regards

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2016, 02:55:29 pm
content: Quote from: Turbon on March 22, 2016, 02:23:28 pmThanks,I've torn apart my beautiful 5334B to attempt this fix. What I've been doing is taking out the piece of metal and flipping it upside down and also flipping top to bottom. That works really well - the buttons work like new. I may not finish it today but I'm going to do every single one and get it over with. I'll post how I'm doing it in the other thread.This fix isnot easy, especially for the buttons in the middle of other buttons. Be aware of this if anyone wants to attempt this!By the way - I could not find a socket that would fit the nuts on the front BNC connectors - I had to mask off the panel around the nuts and use a 14mm wrench - ugh. Is there a socket that fits it? The flats have an oddly small area ...

author: Turbon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2016, 03:15:39 pm
content: xrunner - why keep your solution sticky? Move it to the thread to keep the knowledge gathered in one place as the way you did it is already documented by me. Good to hear it worked for you too but one doesn't need to remove the stick - just bend it in place as described in the thread.Thanks and regards

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2016, 10:00:26 am
content: Switch and contact cleaninghttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/other-blog-specific/40-shop-talk-wafer-switch-cleaning-tips/

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2016, 10:13:33 am
content: Check out Rob's mission in this restoration:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/repair-of-hp-5245l-nixie-frequency-counter/

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2016, 01:42:42 am
content: Great collection

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 07, 2016, 10:36:54 am
content: Re Glass dials for older radioshttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/repro-glass-dial-scale-for-a-hallicrafters-s-38d/

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2016, 09:40:19 am
content: Another of Rob's fine pieces of work.Title self explanatory:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/rejuvenating-nixies-some-comments-photos/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 19, 2016, 10:35:56 am
content: Thanks , but it is actually Dieter's idea; Works well, if you have a semi dead Nixie, try it!Also if you have a short between the anode and some number or between two numbers there is a technique for zapping a 'whisker' using a DC PSU, starting at 100mA or so at low voltage e.g. 10V slowly increasing the current limit until you burn the whisker off!

author: Radio Tech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2016, 11:00:53 am
content: Quote from: Shock on March 27, 2016, 10:00:26 amThanks for the mentionGreat content in this thread also. Very nice collection.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 11, 2016, 02:39:57 am
content: Membrane Keyboard repairXrunner doing more good work , thanks for the heads up!https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/wavetek-model-271-function-generator-restoration-calibration/msg959179/#msg959179

author: Martin.M
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2016, 07:27:58 pm
content: A very glowing Counter tubes restorationhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/philips-'short-time-counter'-(vintage-restoration-project)/greetingsMartin

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 18, 2016, 11:43:04 am
content: My Tube Cleaning TechniqueFollowing comment about tube cleaning I thought I would put up on the blog what I actually do, see if it is anything like anyone else does.The first photo is the before shot, I think the tube has dust but also some cigarette smoke on it.The first thing I do is a plain water wipe of the top and bottom of the glass envelope, gets rid of a large amount of dirt

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 18, 2016, 11:51:29 am
content: Cont'dMy next is with a cotton bud lightly soaked in window cleaning fluid is to go around the edges of the printed material to remove more dust etc. see photoI wait for all to dry then lightly brush the printed area with a DRY brush, this will often remove about 3/4 of the dust.Clean the pins with IPA, a quick finish up with dry cotton bud around the printed area.While talking to my mate (a dentist - they are really good at adhesives knowledge!) he thinks the reason the print comes off is that nothing sticks to glass well esp paint of any sort, he said except an epoxy paint onto an sandblasted or acid etched area of glass! It probably isn't the paint dissolving.If you have any suggestions or let us know what you do it would be of interest.Edit; typo

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2016, 01:51:31 pm
content: Most old tubes were labelled using a rubber roller, with a second hard rubber roller used to spread the printing ink from a reservoir in the print line. The ink used is a solvent based ink, which would stick to glass somewhat, but with time and heat the volatile solvents have all gone, leaving the pigments only there.They were never meant to be permanent, only to identify the tube in the box, as most uses of these tubes always had a diagram on the chassis or the rear panel inner with a layout of the tubes and types printed on it.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 27, 2016, 12:10:15 pm
content: REPAIR OF FLUKE 80 SERIES TERMINALS MrModemhead Thanks for sharinghttp://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-80-series-jack-assembly-rebuild/

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2016, 11:06:22 pm
content: Follow Robs repair and restoration of this old Tek classic:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/restoration-repair-of-tektronix-545/

author: Martin.M
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2016, 06:31:28 pm
content: thank you, I have seen this entry late bec. I am actually busy with the restoration of some elephant radios(see HAM+RF area)greetingsMartin

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 27, 2016, 09:42:03 am
content: 140lbs of radio glory - deserves and got a restoration by Martin.M.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/rf-microwave/lf-tube-radio-restoration/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 16, 2016, 11:49:52 pm
content: TerraHertz Listed some small fastener/ bolt/screw suppliers in Australia (NSW)" I'm lucky to live quite close to these great guys:Premier Fasteners, 3 Ladbroke St, Milperra 2214 ph: 02 9772 1888http://www.premierfasteners.com.au/They have a HUGE warehouse full of fasteners, and are usually happy to take you for a walk in it to find that obscure thing.It's quite amusing to take odd screws from some old electronics restoration in there, to see if they have any. About 50/50 they do/don't.A couple of others:The Stainless Shop. 170 Taren Point Road Taren Point. NSW 2229 ph: (02) 9525 1777https://www.thestainlessshop.com.auhttp://www.smallparts.com.au/PO Box 2161, MANSFIELD, Queensland 41223239 Old Cleveland Road,Capalaba West (Brisbane Southside),Queensland 4157(9am to 5pm Monday to Friday. Phones from 9:30am)Fax 07 3245 1017 (International +61 7 3245 1017)Phone:07 3245 7977 (International +61 7 3245 7977)http://www.smallparts.com.au/store/categories/sales@smallparts.com.au. "

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 29, 2016, 10:24:18 pm
content: Some good tips re cutting threads - taps and lubricantshttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/your-favorite-aluminium-millingdrilling-lubricant/25/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 16, 2017, 09:49:16 am
content: Some good info re Tektronix 465b repair and older scopeshttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/tektronix-465b-110v-rail-is-102v-rms-with-40volt-dips/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 01, 2017, 07:54:04 pm
content: HP Keysight binding post equivalents , Thanks 2N3055http://www.tme.eu/en/details/bs-244mn-b/4mm-banana-sockets/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 26, 2017, 10:34:24 am
content: OLD HP Power SocketsInformation brought to daylight by cubdriver and bitseeker, Thanks Guys.https://web.archive.org/web/20160802081036/http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~hilpert/e/powerConn/index.html/AKA as The Oval ConnectorType 163Belden LL14847Belden/Volex 17952Belden/Volex 17280Note different manufacturers used different polarityIn the photo as below the centre pin is always ground ,Type 17280. Female(cord)= Live Earth ; Neutral : Male (chassis) Neutral; Earth; Live:UL , CSAType 17952. Female(cord)= Neutral ; Earth ; Live : Male (chassis) Live ; Earth; Neutral.HP etc

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 28, 2017, 04:07:04 am
content: VFD RejuvenationAgain a bitseeker find of a great link.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/vacuum-fluorescent-display-rejuvenation/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 06, 2017, 04:22:32 am
content: Some links reGanged / Sticky Push Button repairhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-777-keithley-177-microvolt-dmm-repair/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fixing-sticky-buttons-on-hp-8111a-function-generator/- see comments by xrunner

author: Cyberdragon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2017, 11:56:27 pm
content: Does anyone know anything about repainting vintage glowing clock hands? I don't know if they were supposed to be radium or some phosphor or what, but they don't hold any light anymore and fade out in about a second.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2017, 12:22:03 am
content: Quote from: Cyberdragon on May 07, 2017, 11:56:27 pmNot that I've tried it but what instantly comes to mind is luminous paints like some use for eyes on trout and salmon flies.Any good tackle shop that sells fly tying equipment and consumable should have some.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 08, 2017, 12:45:40 am
content: Re luminous paints, an interesting articlehttp://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/luminous.php

author: Cyberdragon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2017, 01:35:18 am
content: Apparently, the material is zinc sulfide, which may or may not be mixed with radium (zinc sulfide still decays). Either way, I'll see if I can source some zinc sulfide paint and just paint it over top, being careful not to touch the original paint due to nuclear material.EDIT: Well here's a totally reassuring source of ZnS paint...https://unitednuclear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_17_69&products_id=218

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 08, 2017, 02:24:30 am
content: Interesting! A year or so ago, I bought and built a geiger-counter kit fromhttp://mightyohm.com/blog/products/geiger-counter/The 'hottest object I have is an old unused gas mantle - I keep it well away from living areas. I am tempted to buy some of this powder to see how hot it is.I bought some' uranium glass - not very hot - dissappointed! Thorium welding rods ticked a little.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2017, 02:27:55 am
content: The luminous paints and products used in fishing lures AFAIK are not radioactive. If observed in darkness they are dull and non-glowing until "charged" with a light source after which they glow for some period of time. Their responsiveness to the light source and resultant brightness does diminish with age but for paint ons, this can be rejuvenated with just another coat.I play with a bit of this stuffand another product that might fit the bill is a luminous thin plastic that could be cut to fit clock hands and stuck on.Looking for links...............https://www.hendsproducts.cz/en/891-luminous-materialsWill look for more later.....things to do now.

author: Cyberdragon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2017, 04:55:49 am
content: The radiation could potentialy destroy the molocules of certain traditional glow paints, I would need scintillator paint. Plus, it's supposed to glow all night anyway (light-charged chemicals can't, which is why tritium is still used in modern watches).

author: BeetleJuice
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2017, 05:00:12 pm
content: hope i am not off topic , i try to restore an analog multimeter , but it has one of the two copper springs on the needle damaged.does anyone have any idea how to fix this thing?

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 21, 2017, 07:48:09 am
content: Hi, do you have any analogue meters that could be sacrificed for a good spring? The other source may be watch/clock springs. I imagine getting the torque correct is the biggest issue otherwise I would imagine the meter will be out of calibration.Regards RobVK5RC

author: don.r
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2018, 01:20:27 am
content: If anyone is interested in some spring metal for their HP keyboards I have started a thread in BSW section:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/interest-in-hp-button-spring-metal/

author: Martin.M
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2018, 12:13:17 pm
content: I will do a little restoration now:Telefunken E104Kw4/7 , a 90kg shortwave receiver build in Sept. 1953https://www.eevblog.com/forum/rf-microwave/sw-radio-restoration-telefunken-e104/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 07, 2018, 07:36:38 am
content: Mnementh shows a great restoration of an old scope dual shaft control. Dremel and McGiver at the readySee TEA thread about page 368 reply no 9190.

author: Chester chastain
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 08, 2018, 11:59:55 pm
content: Hi I am new to this I need help with a Sony integrated stereo amplifier ta-av521 I have good speakers when I hooked them up I have cracking and popping coming out of one side (left side) any help on this problem please

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 10, 2018, 10:44:03 am
content: Hi Chester, welcome to the forum,I would put this into the main Repair area as a new topic , perhaps the make, model and brief description of the problem as the subject. In the 1st post a more detailed description of the problem also what have you tried, what is your level of electronic experience. Also consider putting, is there anything that make the static worse or better eg moving something, have you taken the covers off - power off and AC plug out of course - and had a good look? When it began was something happening eg lightning in the area or did it just start like this? What test gear, if any, do you have access to? Has it been dropped or water/cat exposure etc. Lots of issues that can give a clue to you and others.This site appears to have both the Service and Users manuals.https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/sony/ta-av521.shtmlThis area/topic is more about how to get the chassis/mechanicals looking better etc.Good hunting. Sounds a little bit like a loose joint - a 'dry' solder joint . Can be hard to see /find - fixing electronics can take quite a bit of time/effort.regards rob VK5RC

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2018, 04:26:38 am
content: I can't believe the words 'urethane' and 'foam' don't occur anywhere in this thread. Let's rectify that.Ok, so urethane foam decays over time, becoming a sticky, highly corrosive mess. It has to be removed from anywhere it's found in old test gear. Typical uses were:* Air filters. (How badly this works out, depends on whether the fragments fell into or out of the equipment.)* Sound damping inside cases. (Greatly dampening the enthusiasm of restorers, when they see the resulting mess.)* Padding, to hold down PCBs or whatever. (Turning to gunk, dropping corrosive fragments all through the gear.)* Molded shock-absorbing structures in carry cases. (Where it destroys whatever precious, high-cost item it was supposed to protect.)If you're lucky, the mess can be relatively easily scraped off, and loose bits extracted with compressed air or a vacuum hose.Then dealing with corrosion it caused is the same as for any corrosion.But there are two worst cases:* Where it's turned to tacky molasses, stuck to complex parts. Solvents and abrasion are the only way.* Large blocks of sound-absorbing urethane foam are usually stuck on with a kind of very robust double-sided sticky tape. This stuff is even worse than the foam, because it's really, really hard to remove. You can scrape the foam off easily, but that leaves the tape. The tape glue is stronger than the tape, so it can't be peeled off (at room temp.) The tape seems to be resistant to typical solvents, so they can't be used to soften the glue underneath the tape. But otoh the tape is mechanically weak, so trying to peel it just gives you tiny pieces.I really hate this stuff.When it's adhered to metals, it can _sometimes_ be removed fairly easily by using a hot air gun to heat up the metal. This softens the glue, and if you're lucky the whole tape can be peeled off in one piece (or many.)If that doesn't work, try heating the metal to just below 'too hot to touch', and rubbing the tape off with finger tips. I didn't find any substance/structure yet that works as well as fingertips for forcefully rubbing the tape off, so that limits the upper temperature for this method.But right now, I have a plastic case off a paper tape punch, that had a lot of urethane foam (decayed to crap.) Hence lots of this tape left after scraping off the foam. The plastic is probably ABS, and so hot air gun heating is out of the question.It sort of peels, but breaks frequently. Ultimately I'll get it all off that way, but it's a pain.Has anyone a better method?

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 20, 2018, 10:22:55 am
content: I have had a couple of old HP 'boat anchors' (eg 5245L) that used a foam adhesive tape on the underside of the lid to keep a bit of downward pressure on daughter PCBs. The years had not been kind - but at least the foam fragments were easily blown away. The tape residue (fortunately it was reasonably permeable to my favourite sticker removal goop - orange oil - I have no idea why it works better than xylene type solvents. I only use it on the chassis - not game to try using it on the PCB. I don't know how it goes on your plastic frame but it seems reasonably benign.It is pretty gross but my favourite scraping tool is finger nail!if some guy could make a disposable scraper with the same hardness I would buy a truck load.

author: TerraHertz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2018, 11:01:55 am
content: Quote from: VK5RC on August 20, 2018, 10:22:55 amHmm, I'd heard the term 'orange oil' but never seen the stuff. Googling finds this from Bunnings:https://www.bunnings.com.au/gilly-stephensons-250ml-australian-orange-oil_p1854496Is that what you are referring to?Gosh, it's expensive. You'd think something made from orange peels would be cheaper.QuoteAustralian hardwood, eg ironbark. Typically from floorboard scraps. Cut with a drop saw into wedge or spatula shapes.It's fine-grained and about the same hardness as fingernails, and makes good scrapers that don't scratch moderately hard surfaces.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 01, 2018, 04:32:32 am
content: Thanks for the tip re hardwood chips/wedges, I haven't done much woodwork in a while but worth making some jarrah chips to try out later.Sorry I wasn't very specific about the 'orange oil' - this is the stuff I have been using - I got it from Mitre10 some years ago, I have had no damage to any plastics. After aggressive plastic cleaning I tend to IPA wash then a bit of Armour-all or Back-to-Black (? Meguires).

author: GregDunn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2019, 08:18:09 am
content: This thread is a great resource, but there's one thing I haven't seen - the best way to restore an engraved dial or panel which has white (or any non-black) markings on a painted surface. There seem to be a large number of "suggested" procedures on the web but few address the best types of paint and techniques for filling the engraved legends. Is there an epoxy-based solution that works similar to the one described at the beginning of this thread? I'm concerned about dissolving the background paint when applying/wiping off the legends. Does anyone care to share their favorite way?

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 24, 2019, 04:46:57 am
content: I don't have any great experience with non-black lettering /dial markings.In an old HP calculator I used some rub-on lettering (white) then a blue biro, which got quite close to the original. Robrenz's technique might work, but over-flow with epoxy loaded with whatever colour onto painted surface could be hard to recover from.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2019, 07:50:42 pm
content: Restoring Tek attenuator decks to reliable operation:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/restoring-tektronix-attenuator-switch-deck-assemblies/

author: Wallace Gasiewicz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2020, 11:57:48 pm
content: A very good TV tech used to start by taking the chassis to the 25 cent car wash and blowing all the dirt off.Someone else used to put boards in the dishwasher, especially if there was all sorts of solder rosin on the board.Here is a cheap way to put white lettering back on knobs that have indented numbers etc... put on some typewriter "white out", let it dry and scrape off the excess with your fingernail. Easy to remove if you get it wrong.Kinda like VR5RC methodWally KC9INK

author: mnementh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2020, 04:40:52 pm
content: I have a few candidates...Borked Bolt Extraction by Slotting With Dremel:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/tinkering-101-borked-bolt-extraction-by-slotting-with-a-dremel/msg3111222/#msg3111222Removing/Reinstalling SMD Power ICs Without Hot Air Rework Gear:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/msg3015518/#msg3015518My post on Repairing a Broken Knob Shaft via Slice & Solder is here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/msg1471767/#msg1471767I've also had many requests for my post on servicing the Centrifugal Blower motor in Tektronix 465/465B/475/475A/2465/24xx series scopes:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/tektronix-2465b-oscilloscope-teardown/msg1863828/#msg1863828Cheers!mnem"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." ~Red Greene

author: Cyberdragon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2021, 07:33:49 am
content: Does anyone know a good way to remove seemingly stripped (not moving when the nuts are turned either way) flower head screws from a 30s radio? If it's not worth any possible damage I'm not gonna mess with them. The speaker is probably still good, though not original (the wires are a bit short and taught).

author: ttx450
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2021, 12:15:05 am
content: Quote from: Cyberdragon on April 02, 2021, 07:33:49 amYou can try a vice grip or squeeze hard both sides somehow and pull apart hard while turning. For deteriorated bolt/nut might work, done before on small screws. Or drill out cut out

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 21, 2021, 10:02:26 am
content: Another suggestion, maybe drill the centre of the screw then use an 'extractor'.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 07:18:13 am
content: https://youtu.be/-6VSC-5WmrARe painting numbers in dials

author: Martin Miranda
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2021, 05:24:50 am
content: retrobrighting using hydrogen peroxide 30 volumes (9%) and heat.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 05, 2022, 08:07:56 am
content: Hi Martin, how warm did you get the solution and roughly how long?I have used peroxide gel and sunlight - took about an hour or so.

author: Martin Miranda
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2022, 08:46:03 am
content: my experiments is good... but i BLEACHED it hahaha. (the picture shows) the temperature reached 80 deg centigrade.i only used some pharmacy 30 volume hydrogen peroxide.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 07:26:28 am
content: xrunner did a high level button recreation using a 3D printed button - sanded, primed then painted.He gives away some secrets on reply # 110705 in the TEA sectionhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/msg3926399/#msg3926399Thanks

author: Tubesrule
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2022, 01:11:58 am
content: My little contribution to the thread, nothing like the stuff here. But I'm pretty happy, is an odd duck. Still need to sort out the cable, the original was replaced by a modern one but is beat up and not attached properly. The magic eye!!

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2022, 05:14:39 am
content: Does anyone know a good way to reapply white lettering onto flat panels, like the red plastic used on the displays on 80's HP gear and on Tek TM500 modules?It would be simple with a laser printer if I could print white.....

author: Tubesrule
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2022, 01:09:57 am
content: Hi anyone here can id, this type of rivet. Trying to keep it as original as possible.Thanks

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2022, 09:01:27 am
content: Hollow brass rivet, Mcmaster carr will have them, though you might have to order a pack of 100 of them. Otherwise hobby shops tend to have thin wall brass tubing that you can use to make them, just cut a small piece off ( use a drill bit shaft that is a snug but sliding fit in the tube, then grind the tube to cut it as an easy way to not crush it) then flare out the one end, insert then flare out the other end.

author: manicdoc
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 25, 2022, 11:10:35 pm
content: Got a TDS540 with 3 feet, so needed another one... found thishttps://www.printables.com/model/22192-replacement-feetpads-for-tektronix-tds-500600700-s/filesCovers series 500/600/700

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2022, 11:24:24 pm
content: Quote from: manicdoc on August 25, 2022, 11:10:35 pmThere is also this useful thread in the TE board with a # of Tek listings one of which has the 5,6,700 feet.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/

author: technogreek
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 20, 2022, 08:59:34 pm
content: Hi- Need some help identifying the manufacturer (or possible successor) of this type PCB board to cable connector. Only marking is "OTP" . These are from approx 30-40 year old boards made in Japan. Other components all look to be Japenese manfacturers. Thanks

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 03, 2022, 08:30:50 am
content: @technogreek what is the pin spacing - and approx pin diameter, is the socket expecting a square, rectangular or round pin? From the photo it looks like a 0.1" pin sockets - but hard to guess.

author: technogreek
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 03, 2022, 03:19:47 pm
content: as close as I can measure-- 2.5mm (0.1") pitch, square pins maybe 0.6mm(0.024") looks like a spring type latch, meaning it snaps into an opening in the socketthanks for responding. these old connectors are difficult!

author: DavidKo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2022, 04:11:00 pm
content: Does it fit on standard 2.54 header? Example picture of header inhttps://kr.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/222005577741/. In case you need also the locking, than it will be harder.

author: mag_therm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2022, 04:17:54 pm
content: They look similar to JAE IL-G series, if 2.50mm pitchThe JAE 0.1 inch pitch is not in latest cataloghttps://www.jae.com/en/technical/catalog/The JAE cable contacts are separate part number on a reel and click in after crimping.Crimper was special. the contacts can be hand soldered to wire if care is taken to minimise solder so the crimp ears can be bent inIf you have to change both the pcb header and cable side, I use Phoenix contact PTSMhttps://www.phoenixcontact.com/en-us/products/pcb-header-ptsm-05-4-hv-25-thr-r32-17785734 pin example:PCB header - PTSM 0,5/ 4-HV-2,5-thr r32Cable Plug - PTSM 0,5/ 4-P-2,5-The cable plugs have push-in locking receptacles I have used AWG 22 and 24 stranded.The 4 pin width fits 0.1 inch pcb OK. 8 pins would have 0.32mm length error over length, might still be OK for a repair job

author: technogreek
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 03, 2022, 11:25:44 pm
content: Good thought, hadn't tried a 2.54 header. I just tried and the spacing is just large enough to through off anything larger than the 2 pin connection.I appreciate your input.

author: technogreek
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 10, 2022, 12:38:12 pm
content: Thanks, i’ll investigate your links. Don’t think i can find the originals for replacement, so Plan B!

author: David D
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2023, 10:20:21 pm
content: New guy here!I have searched and cannot find any info on the frosted/anti-glare coating that HP used on the front panels of the 90's gear like my 8903B. Apparently, it had some stickers on it at one time and when they peeled them off, the coating came off as well. I've thought about trying some matt or frosted clear spray paint, but would like to know if anyone else has delt with this before.

author: BlownUpCapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2023, 07:13:35 pm
content: I don't think it would be a very easy thing to restore.I thought of peeling off the old coat of "Frosting" and just leave it as that, but that may damage the actual good material underneath.Maybe you can cover the whole thing in stickers and peel them off along with the old coat.Anyways it doesn't seem like something that is a very important thing to fix and it's only a minor aesthetic defect. I personally would leave it alone for fear of possibly making it worse.

author: David D
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2023, 01:38:50 pm
content: LOL, I have gotten quite good at removing stickers from surplus/vintage test gear over the years. I can remember using ether(!) to remove sticky tape residue back in the early 80’s. Had to be sure to use it in a well ventilated area!It appears that the text on the front panel is under a clear plastic layer, so the frosted coating could be carefully removed without damage to the text/paint. It’s not a high priority issue, but I’ll experiment when I get the chance and see what works.