hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
LED lights for 4-post autolift - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 11, 2015, 10:16:29 am
content: Can someone recommend some LED-light like these?http://eng.worklightpro.com/scangrip-lighting-products/24-line-light/45-scangrip-line-light-4/They are in my opinion extremely expensive, around €1000, there must be something similar, at a lower pricepoint.My googlefu can't find anything.

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2015, 05:59:47 pm
content: IP66http://www.ebay.com/itm/181177668248/Bingo

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 09:21:15 am
content: Thanks, bingo600.At that pricepoint, i'll order four to test them out.EDIT; The seller does not ship international

author: picandmix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 05:35:15 pm
content: Quote from: cs.dk on October 17, 2015, 09:21:15 amPlenty of similar units around, this one ships to Denmark from the UK if you cannot find any locally.However one important difference with that Scangrip one, its 24v powered so drop a spanner or exhaust on it , no real worry, but these 4ft units are mains powered so apart from being an obvious danger, they might be prohibited for your work use ?You can get smaller length DC powered ones if your search ebay etchttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1200mm-4ft-20W-T8-integrated-LED-tube-isolated-driver-Pure-White-6500k-/271929615756?hash=item3f5044a58c:g:hCgAAOSw3ydVhCxI

author: cs.dk
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 18, 2015, 08:09:58 am
content: ThanksThe lights on the lift now is mains powered neon tubes, so that part should not be a problem.A nifty feature with the Scangrip ones is, that you can turn them around if they are blinding.
Free camera upgrade with Mantis Elite - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cgbrowne
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 12:43:34 pm
content: Bit of a shameless plug I'm afraid (I work for Vision Engineering), but there is a worldwide offer going on with Mantis Elite, where you get a free upgrade to Mantis Elite-Cam HD (worth about £700). Details here:www.visioneng.com/ap15

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 01:24:27 pm
content: I have one courtesy of Vision Engineering, will be nice to try it out soon!
Heathkit IB-5281 RLC bridge - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 04:58:11 am
content: Boy, when did I get this Heathkit RLC bridge from eBay... I think 12 years ago. Did some modifications and added an internal power supply.The ugliest "asset tag" I ever seen

author: crispy_tofu
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 10:17:08 am
content: Wow, the outside of the thing is so clean... was it restored or was it already like that? Pretty nice! (shame about that asset tag)I like those banana-to-alligator adapters too!

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 17, 2015, 08:54:39 pm
content: Yes the front panel is in like new condition, even not yellowed. The case did not receive a restoration, just basic cleaning, nothing fancy. But there are some spots from either some beige liquid paint or spills of a solvent of some sort, weird enough inside the box too, could not get rid of those.The alligator clips i think it was my mod and i recall i soldered them to the banana sockets, cant remember why, perhaps to make it easier to connect/disconnect parts for testing.
Gas discharge viewfinder backlight - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: 0b01010011
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2015, 10:57:19 am
content: I found this interesting gas discharge panel in an old Canon camcorder viewfinder (1999 vintage MV20i). Does anyone know what they are called?Mike found one in his fire brigade Flir thermal camera repair video but not seen anything about them on the internet apart from that.It seems to power up with a supply of 3.3v and an approx 24kHz square wave on the 3rd pin. Not sure if this is a PWM for dimming or just a dumb square wave input.This was attached to another PCB that contained the LCD driver.

author: bktemp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2015, 12:54:09 pm
content: Looks like a flat CCFL.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2015, 01:21:19 pm
content: Is it a Panaplex panel or an electroluminescent one? Looks more like it is an electroluminescent one, driven with around 100VAC at a few kHz.

author: 0b01010011
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2015, 10:13:29 pm
content: I'm not sure - I don't think it's Panaplex as that was neon I believe.This looks more like EL or fluorescent. The lamp itself only has 2 leads so maybe some kind of flat CCFL type device? EL has always appeared dim to me but that is the wire I am referring to and only the cheapie stuff.I see references to FFL or 'flat fluorescent lamp' in old LCD backlight papers so maybe that's what it is.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2015, 09:03:05 am
content: It is a flat fluorescent lamp. Very common in colour EVFs before OEMs moved to LED backlights. I bought a whole load of SVHS camcorders off eBay just to obtain the backlight panel and driver. They are often a cause of dim EVF in the thermal cameras that I repair. Hard to source as a spare part these days.Fraser

author: 0b01010011
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2015, 10:24:05 pm
content: Cheers Fraser thanks for that info.Though they were probably the best fit at the time these days they are pretty inefficient - this lamp draws 0.5A at 3.3V! It's only as bright as a modern white LED.This viewfinder was on a camera that had an LCD fold out display (which itself used a CCFL) so this FFL hasn't been used a great deal.Will find a suitable project that needs it and put it in that!

author: 0b01010011
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2015, 12:19:00 am
content: Some interesting reading on FFLs - though this concentrates on larger lamps but I suspect it's somewhat similar.https://books.google.com.au/books?id=Ae9GREa9ozsC&pg=PA150&lpg=PA150&dq=ffl+voltage&source=bl&ots=NcznKIoqFB&sig=7ULqmZq54mr-7F4s8uM74bU2Nb8&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CEQQ6AEwCWoVChMI_beO1pW-yAIVWI-OCh3e_Qa2#v=onepage&q=ffl%20voltage&f=false
Hakko 888 110V soldering iron on 240V - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: shel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 10, 2015, 01:56:03 pm
content: Hello, for those interested in running a Hakko 888 110V on a 240V line without replacing the transformer this is how I did it:- remove the ZNR- put a 8µF 400V X class cap in series with the primary of the transformer- put a 100Kohms bleed resistor across the capIt's working fine for me. Little power wasted and the cap can go in the housing on top of the transformer.Modifications at your own risks obviously.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2015, 03:16:55 pm
content: I suspect the waveform going into the transformer (and also out) will be severely distorted.

author: shel
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 10, 2015, 08:58:14 pm
content: When it is not heating it is indeed not pretty.The PM97 black and white scope is on the primary. The RIGOL on the secondary. When it looks sinusoidal it is heating.I could put a a load resistor on the secondary. Do you think it matters ?
SMART IC in chinese led lamps - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: paulc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 09:11:18 pm
content: I bought one of these just to understand what is that "wonder ic" inside.I couldn't understand the operation of the IC.I am attaching the drawing.Can someone help?

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2015, 11:16:35 pm
content: I saw this IC discussed once before. Don't think I saved the pdf. It is basically a transistor with an external resistor in the emitter operating as a constant current source with a fixed voltage on the base. Very simple linear device that will heat up.

author: paulc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2015, 07:10:51 pm
content: Yes, it looks like a dual version of the ON SEMI CC regulator.I am impressed.I thought the IC is acting as a fuse instead the missing one in the input.Thanks for solving the mystery.
Optimising the sending of a LOT of data via multiple FTDI USB-serial interfaces - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 07:39:25 am
content: Packet size is everything....

author: krivx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2015, 08:35:51 am
content: Do you use a dedicated LA Mike? Or is the MSO functionality more than enough?

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2015, 11:06:48 pm
content: For stuff like this MSO is fine.My LA is buried under a lot of dust - only really benficial for state anaylsis & complex triggers

author: benSTmax
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2015, 10:12:14 am
content: Mike, I guess you're using the D2XX library, right?If so, probably the "FT_Write()" is the function you're using to write to the ports.One idea probably worth trying is to call this function from different PC application threads using 4K data writes. Just try to synchronize the packet writes between the threads in order to kind of start around the same moment in time. The FTDI library might have an intrinsic limitation with the >2K packets(taking a longer time to return from the function if the data length is above 2K), however calling this function from 2 different threads around the same time, should ideally submit different requests to the driver side and in turn the driver should submit interleaved IRPs to the USB host driver.And an USB analyzer might help as well here. HW-based ones are best but the SW ones might do the job in this case as well.Here are a few options for the SW ones:http://desowin.org/usbpcap/http://www.usblyzer.com/Good luck!
How (well) Do T15 Tips Work? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kemal
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 02, 2015, 08:08:06 pm
content: I'm looking into getting a Hakko FX-951 station. Started reading up about the product and could not find any complaints or experiences otherwise on/about how the tips last. Has anyone had the heater fail in a tip? How about a tip rotting out from RoHS solder?I'm also wondering how the heater/sensor is constructed. How do you put a NiCr heater in series with a thermocouple? I know Chromel is kinda close to heater wire so are Hakko using the heater wire as one side of a K or E thermocouple?Seems just the iron handle and cord cost USD77 to replace. Is there some magic in that handle?Thanks for your time /s

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 03, 2015, 07:36:27 pm
content: I don't think that there are too many of us who one one. I do but I only have it a couple of months. I don't use RoHS solder but any lead free solder is harder on the tips due to having to use higher temps to melt. That will cut the lifetime of any tip. If you plan to do lead and lead free soldering, ideally you should have 2 separate sets of tips to avoid cross contamination. With the 951 you can get sets of tip holders in 2 separate colors so you could see at a glance which tip is which.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 01:29:42 am
content: No tip lasts forever, but the T15 tips last a good long time. Really, out of all the major/popular manufacturers (Metcal, Weller, Hakko, JBC, Pace), the only one that comes to mind when it comes to tips is Weller, and that's because they've had problems with their tips in the past. I don't know if that's still the case. I left out Ersa because I don't know much about them, but the rest of them, including Hakko T15 tips, all seem to last a long time if you take care of them. Most tips need to be replaced more because of abuse than because they've simply worn out, so you're really the determining factor typically.

author: djQUAN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2015, 02:19:06 am
content: I have my 951 since 2013 and still using the same tip I first got for it. I do have a bunch of spares though and using only leaded solder.I also used the 951 heavily in my previous job with many others using the same station. Besides the abuse (which some I've seen can make you cringe), the tips last a while even with lead free solder.
Metcal/OKI Workstand - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2015, 02:04:02 pm
content: I recently picked up a Metcal/OKI PS-900 station. On testing it I noted that the iron stayed hot in the workstand. So I assumed that I had a No-Sleep workstand. I ordered a Auto Sleep workstand and the iron drops to a standby temperature in it. Looking at the two I can't see any difference between them. The data provide by Metcal doesn't provide much information.Does anyone know what the difference is between the stands? Any way to identify them? There are no part numbers on them so that's out.Thanks,Fat

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2015, 04:26:55 pm
content: They add magnets to the sleep versions.

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2015, 10:24:04 pm
content: There is a strong magnet to saturate the tip, it will still be hot to touch.

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 02, 2015, 02:35:01 pm
content: Thanks, I wondered if it was a magnet. Now I can check the one that came with it. I appreciate your help.Fat
A visit with JBC USA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2015, 12:32:52 pm
content: Trying to troubleshoot a JBC AD2200 soldering station was difficult without extra pieces to swap to localize the problem:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/jbc-ad2200-soldering-station/msg750082/#msg750082.Because I was traveling through St. Louis, I called JBC USA, and Katie Bright said that they would help with that. At their location, Kathy Morrow quickly determined that the problem was in the old handpiece. I bought a new handpiece and we spoke a bit about different JBC stations and usage.They were both helpful and friendly, and said that people were often surprised that they actually had JBC equipment on hand for examination and purchase. They were not aware of the EEVblog (which will probably soon change), but said it would be okay to post a message about them here.They would probably appreciate a call before people visit. Also, please realize that both Google Maps and Garmin GPS systems show the wrong location for 9296 Dielman Industrial Drive. Their real location is about a block south. Enter 9260 for a street address on Google Maps to get closer. Or go to the wrong location and go south. When the street turns east, turn west into the parking lot of the small strip mall:street view. There is a JBC sign in their window.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2015, 12:53:26 pm
content: Cool, I wonder if it is same in Spain, would be even easier to plan an vacation there
Can someone please identify this - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: London Lad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 05:54:52 pm
content: Can someone please tell me the make of this bench top PCB holder? thanks

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 06:35:34 pm
content: Hakko C1390CNot cheap thoughhttps://octopart.com/c1390c-hakko-4048237http://www.bdent.com/105-tl-c1390c.htmlI wanted a pair some time ago but decided they were too expensive.A non branded clone of these would be around £15 each but I have yet to see any clones available.Fraser

author: London Lad
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 08:13:48 pm
content: Great thank you for the info

author: D3f1ant
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2015, 06:26:10 pm
content: They are well made and very heavy, perfect for holding boards over pre heaters. I find them better than other frame style holders I have tried and don't waste bench space when not in use. They are expensive and for large boards you will need two. You won't regret buying them tho, they are really nice to use.
Amscope: Increasing working distance - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2015, 04:23:25 am
content: After listening to the most recent Embedded.fm podcast I heard them talking up the AmScope stereo microscope. I decided to pull the trigger and this thing is amazing. My two issues are related to focusing and working distance.Zoom:It has a wide zoom range but more or less a single fixed focus point. You seem to be unable to zoom out and then bring it back in focus.Working Area:Using the 0.5x lense it gets a pretty good working distance. But I was thinking, has anyone tried getting a second 0.5x lens and stack them to get a larger working distance. The downside to that is that the object under inspection will be further away. Has anyone here experimented with this? I did notice a 0.3x lens on their website that I think I might give a try.Listing:http://www.amazon.com/AmScope-3-5X-90X-Binocular-Stereo-Microscope/dp/B006QN5T5G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=httpembefm-20&linkId=660ad45045c106d37ebe12a71c6c2917Anyone else pick up one of these?

author: smbaker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2015, 05:28:51 am
content: I've had a similar AmScope for years. My eyes are pretty terrible, these days I need it for soldering. Mine is very similar to yours, although I opted for the trinocular version that has the port for my DSLR camera. On my workbench, the AmScope is one of the better bang-for-the-buck purchases I've made. I get a huge amount of use out of the thing.I use it with a single 0.5x barlow. If you have any luck stacking two of them, that would be great, as additional working distance would be nice.If only I could justify one of those nice Mantis Viewers like Dave has...

author: Pack34
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2015, 02:09:19 pm
content: I think I got the hang of it. You really have to play with both the two main adjustment knobs. I haven't been able to get it to focus over the whole zoom range but over the majority for it.Although the working distance is quite good, there's always that use case where you have to have the iron almost vertical to do some rework to get around some connectors. Since zoomed all the way in while using the 0.5 barlow lens is way more than enough zoom than I think I'll need, I picked up the 0.3x from their website. I think half the zoom would have been too far out.All-in-all, this microscope is amazing. Definitely an upgrade over the cheap USB microscope I was using.

author: smbaker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2015, 04:08:56 pm
content: Sometimes I'll raise the item I'm working on in order to better achieve focus.I'm very curious to hear how that 0.3x barlow works out. Most of the time when I'm using it for soldering, I'm operating close to the minimum zoom with the 0.5x barlow attached. The only time I really need high power is when inspecting/troubleshooting.I take it your amscope bundle came with the 2x barlow as well? Have you found that to be useful?
Entry Level SMT line - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Manjunath HN
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 30, 2015, 03:05:22 am
content: We are new company in PCB assembly started 6 months back in Bangalore, India. Currently we are doing manual soldering for SMT & wave soldering for Through hole components. We are getting lot of queries for SMT assembly.I wanted some opinion a good professional entry level SMT lines, my budget is US$ 20K. Can you please share your opinions.I was also looking for Radial & Axial automatic placement machines for through hole components, I have not been able to get much information on this.TIAManjunath H N
EIZO EV2450-BK, NEW and flicking after a few hours of use?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: onesixright
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2015, 10:05:27 am
content: Hey you all,I just got a new EIZO EV2450. Awesome screen! Received it yesterday, it was all good. Until, well this morning (not even 24h later). I normally leave my stuff on so it goes into power-save mode. When is started this morning at first all was good. After 10 minutes it started to flicker (see video).I changed the cable, connector (display to hdmi), reset, on off, well the useall. But nothing.Caps? But, huh new ...?https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/49228037/IMG_2541.MOV

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 26, 2015, 10:26:17 am
content: Just return it on warranty. Could be something wrong with backlight or even LCD panel itself.

author: onesixright
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2015, 03:41:56 pm
content: While waiting for reply of the vendor, i switched on the screen today. An what do you know, it works againIts now working for over 3 hours, and no problems. It was switched of a 1,5 days. Heating problems?Obviously when i send it in, and they put it to the test, they find nothing....Anybody a clue what to do ?
Sensor type in JBC TA5120??? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: DJMota
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 15, 2015, 12:16:31 am
content: Hello.Anyone knows what is the type of sensor uses the JBC TA5120 desoldering Station?Thermistor (ohms?) or thermocouple (type K, J...?)Some pics and scheme:Greetings.
Hakko Future Module FM-202 Solder station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: J.Xerneas
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 09:08:14 am
content: I am looking at a Hakko Future Module FM-202 Solder station on eBay. I was wanting to know if there is anyone with one of these and if it was worth $100. If I could a review of it from someone who uses one that would be good. It would be my first station so I would also like to know if is is beginner friendly, I can learn quick if it's not to confusing to use.

author: crispy_tofu
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 09:18:27 am
content: Sorry, I don't have any advice about the actual soldering station but be careful about buying fakes - the FM-202 is discontinued.EDIT: It looks like used FM-202s are going for about USD$250 on eBay, so $100 would be a steal ... if it's real

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 06:57:39 pm
content: Here's a link with manuals for various revision models:http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=49&PID=2392&Page=7You can find T-7 tips but here is a link from Hakko that tells you have to use T-12 and T-15 tips--http://www.hakko.com/english/products/t12_t15_with_fm202.html.It appears to be an older version of the New Hakko FX-951 with the heater in tip technology. I would grab one up if possible.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 07:07:14 pm
content: The FM-202 is an excellent station. I have it's little brother, the FP101. If it's complete with the iron and stand, $100 is a good price. If there's anything missing, I'd just as soon buy something else instead.

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 10:05:15 pm
content: Don't think all the T-15's have the barcode on them though for the station to read, my T-15's don't.

author: John Coloccia
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2015, 12:26:18 am
content: The barcode was only for the T-7 tips. That's long gone. Current generation is T-15...no barcode. You simply turn off the "process gate" on the FM-202, and everything else stays the same. There are instructions for doing this on Hakko's website.
Raspberry Pi 2: where to buy in Australia and tips for RP newb? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SteveLy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2015, 04:10:24 pm
content: Stephen Wolfram has made his crown jewel creation Mathematica available for free for the Raspberry Pi OS Raspbian. (Seehttps://www.wolfram.com/raspberry-pi/.) That combined with the release of the more powerful Pi 2 early this year convinced me that I should get myself a Raspberry Pi 2.My questions, especially to Aussie Raspberry Pi users, are:Where should I buy one? Ebay sellers okay? (I am in Melbourne.)Are there any particularly badly made versions/"clones" I should watch out for?I have never used a Raspberry Pi (v1 or 2) so any other tips would also be appreciated on: power supply, SD card choice, case..?(I'm an experienced Linux user so I expect the software side of things is going to be relatively straightforward.)Thanks in advance. Cheers!

author: pfrcom
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2015, 01:29:05 am
content: Element14 used to be as competitive as anyone for original RPi

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2015, 02:40:14 am
content: Umart

author: SteveLy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2015, 07:40:59 am
content: Quote from: pfrcom on September 30, 2015, 01:29:05 amGreat tip, thanks! I just assumed that if they did ship to Australia, it'd be expensive, but no: free shipping on orders above $AU45. And their prices are the best.
FLIR TG165 thermal imager at Canadian Tire for $350 CDN ($265 USD) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 07:24:01 pm
content: FYI: It looks like every Canuck's not-so-favorite hardware store, Canadian Tire, has the FLIR TG165 (CT #57-4634-4) on sale this week for $350, which at current exchange rates, is ~ $265 USD. They describe it as "Flir Imaging Infrared Thermometer bridges the gap between temperature guns and thermal imagers". Their website is very low on details, in fact the FLIR model number is only visible in the image, not found in the text on the page. The TG165 has a modest 60x80 thermal image resolution, but this is much better than CT's previous thermal imager ("Mastercraft Maximum Thermal Imager", #57-4582-6) which had a very poor resolution of 12x16 pixels.At this price, I am so very tempted.... but the wife would have my head.edit: confirmed in-store that it is a FLIR TG165 in a FLIR-branded box (no CT house branding).

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2015, 03:41:34 am
content: Quote from: macboy on September 21, 2015, 07:24:01 pmThat would be ridiculous if it was CT rebranded.Indeed, very strange, since CT has gone down the drain over the years selling Chinese made crap.I still have a Black & Decker drill, made in USA, bought at CT back in 1999. Still going strong.
Video: Intro and mini teardown/inspection of 50+ yr old Drake 2B Receiver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: w2aew
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2015, 08:26:09 pm
content: As the Subject states - a quick introduction and initial visual assessment of a 50+ year old Drake Model 2-B Communications Receiver - circa 1961-65 or so.

author: w2aew
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 02:46:39 am
content: here are the next two videos in the series on the restoration of the vintage Drake 2B:and...

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 02:53:32 am
content: Fantastic videos!Love drake stuff, big fan of the TR-4 series.

author: AF6LJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 03:14:03 am
content: Nice I have an R-4 that will be getting some TLC in the future.

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 03:52:24 am
content: Just saw this thread, after having already watched the videos. Great stuff! Those melted wires were a doozy!
PC based laboratory equipment?? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: obuone
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2015, 04:09:00 pm
content: Hey guys have anyone used PC based laboratory equipment, like a 2 GSPS oscilloscope, 10 GHz bandwidth spectrum analyzer PCIe boards?I wonder how their performance stand to the "real deal" high performance keysight, tektronox etc divices.
Klauke Micro electric crimp tool - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2015, 11:47:48 pm
content: Very nice.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2015, 12:34:41 am
content: Nice toy Mike, thanks. I can see the real use of it is to relieve your stress by crimping those blank terminals for hours ? Its time to replenish the depleted terminals stock.As those weird strips, I'm guessing maybe to increase the thermal mass of the pcb area where those power transistors dissipate the heat ? To slow down the build up hot spots ? Still not convincing enough to my self though.
Question about universal support/holder/bracket/jig for rework station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gataka
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 16, 2015, 08:29:01 am
content: Good day to every one. I have hard time to choose or find a good and universal holder, that i can use. I have ir6000 machine, and it works flawlessly . I bought from different places and different sellers, i can say, they were cheap supporting jigs, every on was from 18 usd to 30 usd, for all the types of consoles - ps3 fat 60 gb and 80 gb model, ps3 slim 2000 model, xbox 360 fat, xbox 360 slim, and i made in local a custom one for ps3 slim model 2500/3000. When i started to gather all my gear, this for me seemed the best way to support the boards. But i fail miserably, most of this jigs are not good, the only one that are usable, not bended and with perfect place for the screws are for ps3 slim 2000 and xbox 360 fat. All other - are bended or the screws are not on place and cant hold good.So i am back from the begining and i am wondering what to buy. I found a guy in US who can make me 2 universal jigs for ps4/ps3 slim and all ps3 fats, 2 jigs for all this boards, but is expensive more than 260 USD, then i will need to buy good jigs for xbox 360 and xbox one. I found good jigs for xbox 360 slim and fat, but every one is 60 usd, 120 usd for both ... too expensive..This is the ps4/ps3 jig :So i am wondering, is there any good universal holder, something that is easy to use, i have fount 2 solutions :This one is looking good :http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-BGA-Playstation-PS3-PS4-Board-Support-Clamp-Jig-Reflowing-Reballing-/161503905249?hash=item259a6205e1It's not cheap but it looks can support everything. But complicated to use.And this one -http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wholesale-2014-newest-PCB-jig-bga-brackets-bga-table-pcb-support-sustain-for-IR6000-IR6500-bga/2014536009.htmlcheaper but somehow i don't like it.I saw this one too, i really like it, the bottom can be lined as i wish and looks very easy to use, but cant find anywhere to buy it :What are you using, what will you recommend? Is there anything els. I will appreciate every answer.
Hakko N2 System - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Theboel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2015, 03:36:43 am
content: Dear All,I seen in the hakko website they have a nitrogen system soldering kithttp://www.hakko.com/english/n2system/sample of the system are like this :http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fm2026.htmlthe cost and complexity of the system is "extra ordinary" to me but I like to now maybe someone can shed a light a first hand experience or opinion about this soldering system.Thank You

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2015, 03:50:38 am
content: It makes perfect sense.With the increase in temperature required for lead free solder, and the lower resistance of lead free solder to oxidation having an oxygen reduced environment is likely to significantly reduce joint/solder/tip damage due to oxides.Same as back-purging when TIG welding, or puring with inert gas when brazing copper. I keep a cylinder of Nitrogen around for both (nitrogen is cheaper than Argon for purging, leaving more Argon for welding). If I had a lead on a cost effective N2 generator I'd swap out my Nitrogen bottle in a heartbeat. I'd imagine for continuous use like soldering, the only cost effective method is a generator.

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 15, 2015, 04:02:03 am
content: I would be very sceptical about the claims of the N2 generator, separating N2 and O2 is not trivial, yet they claim 99.9% N2 from regular compressed air? How?https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx780.html

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2015, 04:19:15 am
content: Quote from: TheAmmoniacal on September 15, 2015, 04:02:03 amPSA (Pressure Swing Absorption). Not very efficient but extremely effective.I used some cheap zeolite and PVC plumbing fittings to get >75% O2 from compressed air in an afternoon. With the right adsorbent and a tuned system >99% is routinely achieved in industry.

author: Theboel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2015, 05:15:04 am
content: Hi All,Beside hakko Goot/Taiyo Yuden also has same system and I found its more simple and cheap ( not sure)http://www.surclean.co.uk/product.aspx?id=355I like to see what exactly advantages / disadvantages using this systemThe ersa brand has this video :What do You think ?

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 15, 2015, 05:20:46 am
content: Quote from: TheAmmoniacal on September 15, 2015, 04:02:03 amActually, it is pretty trivial - membrane separator cartridges have gotten relatively cheap ($x00 vs $x000), last practically forever, and at low flow rates can easily reach 99%+ N2.
Ribbon cable punch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2015, 12:19:06 am
content: I have need to selectively punch out short sections of a wire in a standard 0.05" pitch ribbon cable, this had relatively common application in the 80's and 90's but I can't find the name of the punch tool since "punch" seems to now refer to the press used to assemble the IDC connectors and a lot of other punching tools for cable assembly. Is there a set of dies available for the common bench top presses or is there a specialised tool available for making gaps in ribbon cable? It would be easy enough to modify a cutter to have a short blade (even scissors would be strong enough for most ribbon cable) section but it would be easier if there is something already on the market with guides/fences etc.
$45.40 Hot Air Reowrk Station, Youyue 858D+ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheAmmoniacal
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 02, 2015, 08:25:15 pm
content: For anyone else looking for a cheap hot air station, here's a quick look at the cheapest I could find. It's a Youyue 858D+ (Clone of the Atten 858+:https://youtu.be/vva2t21sOAs?t=1s) from Aliexpress:http://www.aliexpress.com/item/220V-700W-YOUYUE-858D-ESD-Soldering-Station-LED-Digital-Solder-Iron/32373963710.htmlIt was $45.40 total, including shipping from Singapore to Norway. It was ordered on the 25th, marked as shipped on the 27th, arrived at the post office here in Norway on the 1st and picked up on the 2nd. Don't ask me how that happened (Would not expect it to be this fast for anyone). The seller has 100% feedback score and communication was good (responded to the message).Pictures here:https://www.dropbox.com/sc/1fff0gftx3y0gbg/AAA342ffmqdTA7-qeb98TBY6aAt a first test the temperatures do seem to be within +-10 C at half an inch from the nozzle.It does have an automatic shut-off and cooling period when you put it back in the handle.The case and front panel are metal.Soldering on the PCB inside looks good. (only the one solder joint on the PCB inside the handle looked suspicious, but fine)

author: electr_peter
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 02, 2015, 09:42:36 pm
content: Check wiring very carefully! See this thead for more infohttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/deadly-wiring-fault-atten-858d-hot-air-rework-station/There are multiple models of similar hot air stations - Atten 858D+/Wep 858D/Youyue 858D/Pro'sKit SS969B. Pro'sKit SS969B internals are quite nice unlike some others.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 03, 2015, 11:57:34 am
content: I bought a Yihua 858D for about the same price and found no wiring issues.

author: bianchifan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2015, 10:07:09 am
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/youyue-858d-some-reverse-engineering-custom-firmware/msg336712/#msg336712
Best brand of crimp terminals (quick disconnect, ring, fork)? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: pstemari
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2015, 03:54:08 pm
content: Any thoughts? I've been likingMolex's Avikrimpseries the best lately, the extra cost seems to be worth it in better crimps. I'm getting very good results, even when crimping onto solid wire, and the terminals are UL listed.Panduit makes some $$$ ones that have good reviews, GB and 3M are also major brands.What are your preferences?

author: thefamilyman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2015, 05:31:27 pm
content: I use Weidmuller and Phoenix Contact ferrules and crimps when I'm building control panels.Phoenix is good because they also make break out boards for Allan Bradley PLCs
Spectrum Analyser Ebay - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: metRo_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2015, 11:35:17 am
content: Hi,Do you think the following producthttp://www.ebay.com/itm/121372351807works with sdr software? Or any of you have been used any of that products?Thank you

author: xtech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2015, 11:03:37 am
content: It works under WinNWT software (same as for NWT-500) and it will not work under SDR software like SDRsharp or other similar.
Info regarding Datum 9310 Time Code Generator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cat87
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 10, 2015, 06:54:08 am
content: Hello everyone, I'm wondering if anyone has any information on a Datum 9310 Time Code Generator. Any technical manuals or user manuals...anythingWhat I want is to have it display and keep time, and I can't find anything about how to operate this thing. For example, to set the initial time, do I have to send it some kind of code or can it be done via the front panel?Any information on this is welcome.Thanks
What is this thing called? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: UnEntitled
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 12, 2015, 10:18:56 pm
content: On Dave's wafer mailbag one of them comes in a membrane that seems to stick to the dies themselves.https://youtu.be/y0WEx0Gwk1E?t=1887What is the actual name of this?

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2015, 11:11:12 pm
content: "release tape".Seehttp://electroiq.com/blog/2007/03/wafer-dicing-a-sticky-situation/
Switches, really big switches... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: eas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2015, 07:03:58 am
content: Today I went tocheck out some switches.All this along with much much more,including vintage test and radio equipment, and some hardcore cable-porn and tight-lacingis on display one afternoon a week at the Museum of Communications in Seattle.If you live in the Seattle area, or will be visiting, plan to spend a good chunk of at least one Sunday afternoon there -- unless you have no interest in seeing 100 years of communications electromechanical and electronic engineering under one roof and having your questions answered by career technicians and engineers.If you need persuading, or something to tide you over, I havemore photos and details of my visit to the museumon my blog.

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2015, 04:31:38 pm
content: Wow lots of nice photos on your site.I would love to go see it if i didn't live so far away.

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2015, 05:26:59 pm
content: Very cool.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2015, 04:22:26 pm
content: All those massive amounts or wiring made me not interested in telecom equipment at all during my EE study. Guess what I did in the first 10 years of my career: design telecom equipment

author: eas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 02, 2015, 05:40:50 pm
content: Quote from: nctnico on September 02, 2015, 04:22:26 pmI appreciate those massive amounts of wiring. What I appreciate, most of all, is that someone else did it!
Hakko 936 Key card - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: h1386343
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 04:13:36 pm
content: I've got a used Hakko 936 which I am planning to give a friend for Christmas. Though I don't have an original key card for it. So I always used a piece of cardboard to change the temperature. Now I am wondering if someone has the exact measurements (or could upload a scan) of the key card as I'd like to make something more durable out of plastic.

author: synapsis
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 11:38:29 pm
content: The company I work for has probably 15+ Hakko 937s... every single one of them with cardboard wedged in it.But a friend did get this measurement for me. I'm not sure if a 937 card is the same as a 936 (the 888ish blue key doesn't fit, found plenty of those.)

author: h1386343
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2013, 11:41:43 am
content: Thank you for those measurements. I don't really get those key cards either. So easily they are lost. As I also have got a 937 (with a cardboard key card) I believe those are the same. So once I get home I make a few nicer ones with your measurements and hopefully this will be a nice Christmas gift.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2013, 01:09:26 pm
content: I don't think they ever made a 936 with a key card.

author: GeekPriest
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2015, 02:13:16 pm
content: This is a really old thread, but wanted to point out that the width is .98 inches (probably 25mm officially), not 9.8 as given in the diagram above. An old hotel key card or credit card should work fine for this. See my results inhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-937-key-card-dimensions/
Screen Printer suggestion? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: corrado33
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2015, 10:42:21 pm
content: Hi all,I'm recently in the market for a small screen printer to use in my lab. The screen printers that I'm looking for are the ones typically used for solder masks and silk screens.Does anyone have any good brands to look for? I'm looking for one that's very small, even as small as 150mm x 150mm (I've never seen one that small though.) However, bigger is fine it just means more expense. Does anyone have any recommendations for what they've used, or have seen used? I'd much appreciate it if you'd have any advice for me!Please don't tell me that there are better ways to do things. I'm not using this for electronics. We specifically want a screen printer.Thanks!
Hakko heating element with 12R resistance. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: frenky
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 31, 2015, 11:39:48 am
content: Hi guys I need your help.I have an old soldering station VOLTCRAFT LS 50/LA 50 with 24V/48W handle:Inside handle is (12R heater and 1R thermocouple?; it's the same as Solomon 10) :So I found this article (in Serbian)http://goo.gl/6LAC4jin which author states that all fake Hakko handles have 12R heater.HAkko handles (even clones) are much nicer than my original handle so I decided to get one.I received handle and is realy nice but the heater is not 12R but its 3R. And sensor is not 1R but 50R. So the handle is not compatible with my station (at least I don't dare to connect it).So my guestion is: Where could I get cheap Hakko clone handle that has 12R heater? Or where could I get heating element with 12R resistance ?Thank you for any helpful suggestions.

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2015, 01:23:03 pm
content: your friend probably is refering to A1322 element, they are used by various hakko 936 clones and have resistance about those values.See here:Http://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/genuine-vs-fake-hakko-936-ceramic-heater-a1321/You should be able to get a1322 element from ebay or aliexpress

author: frenky
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 31, 2015, 01:41:11 pm
content: Tnx.I have now ordered one cheap 936 handle and a few A1322 heaters from different sellers.Wish me luck.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2015, 03:26:53 pm
content: Quote from: frenky on August 31, 2015, 11:39:48 amThat's the "real Hakko" PTC-type element. Your station has the thermocouple type. Make sure you connect it the correct way around, and don't mix up heater vs. sensor.

author: frenky
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 31, 2015, 04:56:02 pm
content: When I got it the first thing was to measure resistance.After some research I have found that the resistance matches the real Hakko heater and that I need a "fake" one with 12R heater.I won't be connecting it to the soldering station because fakes have thermocouple and original has PTC resistor and I don't want my house to burn to the ground.But I will also make a diy controller for the original heater:http://goo.gl/Srptft
Recommend me a cheap eBay universal programmer? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 30, 2015, 05:51:07 pm
content: Devices of interest are Atmel 28C64 or equivalent, and Lattice 22V10 in PLCC28 packages (I am aware I will need an adaptor and have sourced one already). The cheaper/nastier the better! My budget is non-existent in the bad way, so I'm hoping there's a Chinese one that's "good enough". Failing that, at least let me know if there are any to avoid.I might be able to get a Dataman S4 from work on extended loan, but I'm not sure if it knows how to program GALs, and nobody else seems to know either as it hasn't been used in a very long time.

author: Zeyneb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2015, 11:28:21 pm
content: Maybe a GALEP is a nice one.http://www.conitec.com/english/galep5.phpI wouldn't recommend going for the cheapest. As a corruption in the programming process wouldn't allow me to differentiate between my own mistake or a problem caused in that cheap device. And then you want to buy a good solution so in the end you have spend more.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2015, 11:43:52 pm
content: pro tip: you can search for just about any programmer by name plus "device list".this is the list for the S4:http://www.dataman.com/downloads/dl/file/id/17/dataman_s4_device_list.pdfSupport for GAL/PALCE "Requires GAL Module" whatever that is.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2015, 12:09:32 am
content: Look for a TOP853 on Ebay (around $50).