Pro tip - label wall warts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: duckduck
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 06:13:08 pm
content: When I buy a new device that comes with an AC-DC converter / power supply / wall wart, I print up a label on the label maker for what the wall wart is for and stick it on the wall wart. This prevents me from having to do the dreaded "dig through the box of wall warts" and read the tiny writing on the underside of each one until I find a match, or, heaven forbid, using a lab bench power supply with an adapter.EDIT: grammarEDIT2: I have a Brother PT-D220. I like the Brother because knock-off labels are available for cheap. I have labels that I printed a couple of years ago that look like the day I printed them. HOLY CRAP there are shrink-tubing labels! I need those to mark audio and RF cables I make. Thanks for the tip! Now I have to figure out which Brother printer will work with the cheap knock-off shrink-tubing labels. I always work backwards like that when purchasing consumer gear that eats consumables.

author: mendip_discovery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 06:16:40 pm
content: A few years ago I thought what would be nice is a AC to DC power supply that can have multiple addressed outputs which can be used to power the myriad of stuff that lives on or around my desk. But I don't have the skills or know-how to build it.Does your label printer have a label on it, telling you its a label printer?

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 07:05:56 pm
content: That's actually one of the first things I did with my new label maker (Brother PTH111). The knockoff ~$2 cartridges work quite well for general purpose use, they stick good and peel off clean even after a trip through the dishwasher.On the wall warts I label anything center negative on the wart and with a flag on the end of the cable to prevent mixups, label on all the center neg gear too, including the label maker.

author: berke
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 07:18:24 pm
content: Quote from: BrokenYugo on February 02, 2024, 07:05:56 pmOP's idea is good if you know your labels won't fade. Last year I labeled the outlets etc. in my house with a Dymo and a knock-off cardtridge, they're now all faded, even those not seeing the sun. I don't know if the heat from the adapter will help with the faading. Maybe the old-style embossed labels would be better.QuoteWhat is the evolutionary advantage of a species that produces center negative adapters?

author: schmitt trigger
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 07:23:54 pm
content: One of those ideas, which you facepalm yourself, while thinking: “why didn’t I think of that myself? Its sooooo obvious.”

author: tom66
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 07:29:26 pm
content: Quote from: berke on February 02, 2024, 07:18:24 pmSony used to do it with their camcorders. It meant it was quite hard (for some time) to find third party adapters. They were at least smart enough to put a crowbar diode on the input so it wouldn't nuke the camera if you wired it backwards.

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 08:09:27 pm
content: Used to do this, but now everything is USB-powered there seems to be little point.

author: AVGresponding
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 08:32:19 pm
content: Quote from: berke on February 02, 2024, 07:18:24 pmThat's interesting... the Brother ones don't fade, even the knock-off ones. Must be a different printing process? The Brother uses a thermal transfer method, which does leave a negative behind on the "ink" roll, inside the cartridge, so needs to be destroyed if you print anything sensitive (passwords etc). Big Clive did a vid tearing one down iirc.

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 08:42:15 pm
content: Dymo use heat-sensitive labels. Make a spot hot and it goes black. Fine if you're labelling, say, condiments in the larder but stuck to a PSU that gets hot they will turn grey then black over time.

author: berke
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 08:59:02 pm
content: Quote from: PlainName on February 02, 2024, 08:42:15 pmYes but my labels faded even though they weren't exposed to any particularly high temperatures (on the wall for example). I have some labels printed with original Dymo cartridges that haven't faded. It's not only that the "unheated" white part gets darker, but the dark parts that were originally printed lose their blackness as well, the whole label converges to a purlish gray haze.Someone should invent a portable laser label printer.

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 09:06:16 pm
content: Given that Dymo are trying to outdo HP as spawn of the devil currently, and your cheap knock-off label fades without prompting, perhaps you're better dumping it all for a Brother or something

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 09:43:46 pm
content: yellow insulating tape and a black sharpie.No power supply/batteries,no manufactures material lock in and unlimited symbols and languages built in.

author: berke
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 09:49:31 pm
content: Quote from: PlainName on February 02, 2024, 09:06:16 pmIt is tempting. Looks like there is even a good Linux driver for the USB models. Would be most useful if the tape is wide enough to print 4 lines, so that I can have for example a readable label with pinout information on the back of a small board.EDIT: Holy crap HEAT SHRINK TUBING LABELS exist!

author: BrokenYugo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2024, 11:20:36 pm
content: Quote from: berke on February 02, 2024, 07:18:24 pmI put a flame to one and it shriveled up, melted and burned before the print did anything funny. All the laminated Brother stuff thermal transfers the text to backside of the clear film, then sticks it to a piece of double sided tape that also forms the background. Smart system aside from how it inevitably wastes some since the print head is like an inch back from the cutter to make room for the two tapes to come together and the toner ribbon return path.Center neg is a Japanese standard, some throwback to germanium era (PNP dominant) stuff if I had to guess.

author: berke
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2024, 08:25:11 am
content: Quote from: themadhippy on February 02, 2024, 09:43:46 pmRelevant usernameElectrical tape gets gooey and shifts around in my experience, collecting dust, and requies cleaning when you peel it off; but then you could user another kind of tape. The Sharpie traces wear off with abrasion and common solvents, but you could add a layer of transparent tape on top. You need to lay the yellow tape on a flat, convenient surface if you want to write properly, it's hard to pack lots of information. If you write something elaborate and make a mistake, you can't fix it.You need scissors, the Sharpie, the yellow tape, the transparent tape and the writing surface. If you use a Sharpie to write something on a circuit board and then solder something, guess what happens when you use IPA to clean the board.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2024, 08:45:57 am
content: Quote from: berke on February 02, 2024, 08:59:02 pmThermal printing is a chemical process, the printing *will* get weaker over time, the label will turn somewhat yellow/grey-ish over time, especially when exposed to light. The decomposition will be sped up by higher temperature and UV-light.DYMO (original) is not a lot better than 3rd party labels, just way more expensive.Thermo transfer (with black foil) however keeps the black printing like forever. Essentially you are covering your label with a mix of wax and carbon particles, so you don't have a chemical process involved, the print is a physical process.For thermal printing, you are pretty much stuck to paper-based labels; transfer labels are available in paper, different plastic materials and even metal. So you can even create chemical resistant labels.So if you want to mark something to be readable for years to come, use transfer print. There are also these useful handheld printers with cartridges, those are transfer printers as well. Cheap and great, IMHO.

author: AVGresponding
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2024, 09:32:53 am
content: Quote from: berke on February 02, 2024, 09:49:31 pmQuite a few of the Brother ones do up to 24mm wide tape, so you can get quite a few lines of text on them, especially if you are happy with smaller font sizes.My E550W will also connect to a smartphone so you can print out (low res) pictures, and your own designs you make using the app.The heatshrink labels are super good for making really nice sleeve cable ID's, even better than the Hellerman marker ferrules.

author: mendip_discovery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2024, 09:43:52 am
content: At work we use the P touch PT-P750W Its isn't too bulky and can use mains and batteries (or pack). Has USB, NFC or WiFi connections. The only downside is the p-touch software as it's a but odd at times but overall it's good. I have done over 40k of labels on mine and only swapped for a newer one a few months back.The labels are really nice as they stick well but you do have a hour or so before they really start to stick. But even then they still come off easily. They cope ok with most conditions even oily ones. The only time they do become a bit of an arse is when they go through lots of hot/cold cycles as I have found the white bit stays on and the clear bit peals off, still not as much of an arse to clean than paper labels so I wont complain.At home I have a handheld one as it was being chucked out of a customer's place as the battery was dead. Use it to label all the sorted nuts and bolts boxes. Even used different colours for electical stuff and mech stuff.

author: berke
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2024, 10:21:26 am
content: Thanks a lot, now I have to buy another piece of equipment!The desktop version is interesting but I need to label all the wiring in my house, OTOH being able to print something defined on the computer is also very useful. Also I'm allergic to Windows and BT and WiFi. There seems to be a hand-held version with USB connectivity that should do the trick.

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2024, 10:24:59 am
content: QuoteNot good for long term. I have the pukka Hellerman cable labels where you write on them with felt tip then the clear part of the label sticks over that. OK for a year or two by now my scribbles are worse than doctor's notes. Only way I can tell wtf they are is because I happened to use different coloured pens.

author: berke
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2024, 01:46:04 pm
content: Quote from: PlainName on February 03, 2024, 10:24:59 amYou could ask your pharmacist to read them for you.

author: radar_macgyver
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2024, 03:06:43 pm
content: Quote from: berke on February 02, 2024, 09:49:31 pmYep, and cheap knockoff ones exist too - Amazon is full of them. I use the Brother HSE knockoffs. The writing can come off under friction, so on cables that may be used outdoors, I add a clear heat shrink on top of the printed one. I used to use the 'Kroy' brand labels and printers, but they seem to be discontinued (and were also quite expensive).To the OP, thanks for this, I've started doing this on various 'nonstandard' wall warts that have no other indication of what they're originally for. They also help on my very messy workbench when I have several plugged in and can't tell which one to unplug.

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2024, 08:56:38 pm
content: Omg, the OP is a heretic of the USB-C religion.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2024, 10:16:49 pm
content: Quote from: schmitt trigger on February 02, 2024, 07:23:54 pmI did, right after "charging up" a power drill with 12V AC. The drill didn't appreciate it, no fireworks, just actual zero capacity battery.

author: duckduck
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2024, 11:40:52 pm
content: Quote from: SiliconWizard on February 03, 2024, 08:56:38 pmI'm a fan of USB C-powered devices. I wish they would make more of them, but I understand the economic incentives of OEMs. My label printer takes a DC barrel connector, but it can also/instead take 6xAAA batteries. It works with NiMH batteries just fine, and they last a long time in this capacity.I would call myself a member of the NiMH (and also the many flavors of lithium rechargeables) religion. I think that leaky-ass alkaline primary batteries are the work of the devil. Don't get me started.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 09:06:08 am
content: Quote from: duckduck on February 02, 2024, 06:13:08 pmAt work, I spent an afternoon labeling the several large boxes of random wall warts with their voltages and currents. (I used white for DC, yellow for AC.) Takes some time but man does it save time later, whenever someone comes in needing a replacement power supply for something.Quote from: duckduck on February 02, 2024, 06:13:08 pmYep. Thermal transfer is a mature technology that is well understood even by the knockoff makers. The way the standard TZ tapes are laminated means that there are no (mechanical) robustness requirements whatsoever for the ink on the ribbon. It’s basically just carbon black in some kind of binder that can melt from one ribbon onto another.For those who may not be familiar with how the standard laminated TZ tapes work: the thermal printhead transfers ink from the ink ribbon to thebackof the clear front tape. Then the background-colored double-stick tape (with release paper on the back) is pressed onto the rear-printed front tape. This way, the ink is not being viewed through the adhesive, but directly through the lamination layer.Though I’ve never seen anyone use them, there also exist non-laminated labels for TZ printers: TZe-N2xx and the now-discontinued paper labels (AL-K251). Both of these are direct thermal, not thermal transfer, as best I can tell.Heat shrink tubes (HSe series) and non-adhesive fabric ribbons (TZe-FA series) of course also print directly to the substrate.Because the printhead design of the TZ printers is designed to print onto the back of the front film, when they are used on non-laminated labels and specialty tapes (where you’re printing directly onto the substrate), they exit the printer with the printing facing away from you.Quote from: duckduck on February 02, 2024, 06:13:08 pmCompatibility is a big question, especially with knockoff tapes. The TZ system has two generations of cartridge encoding, which is the entire difference between the original TZ system and the later TZe system. The encoding includes key printing parameters like tape width and whether it’s standard rear-print (laminated) tape or front-print (unlaminated) tape, since the image must be mirrored. (Also, there are the “high-grade” laminated tapes that only work in a handful of models, and these evidently have different printing parameters, as they support different print speeds than regular ones.) But it also encodes things like the color of the label. (As an aside, I’ve been trying to compile info on the various codes, in the hope of decoding the TZ/TZe encoding. I’m surprised that there isn't already a website with them all, but I’ve come up dry.)TZ uses only encoding holes on the bottom of the cartridge. TZe adds another set of encoding holes on the face of the cartridge, read by feelers mounted right next to the print head. TZe cartridges always have both sets of holes, making them backward-compatible to TZ printers. So old TZ printers sense only the bottom holes. Cheap TZe printers sense only the front holes IIRC. And expensive TZe printers (like the big desktop models) sense both.My printer at home (and one of the ones at work) is a TZ printer, and just worked with the knock-off HSe heat shrink cartridges I bought. But when I tried them on the big PT-P950 at work (an expensive TZe model), some of them got misidentified, and some were not recognized at all, indicating that their encoding holes are not correct.Brother only wants the heat shrink to work with certain models, so they’re likely encoded a particular way. As far as the actual printing goes, they work just fine, but need to be mirror imaged, since they’re not laminated. On TZ, this appears to be controlled by one of the bottom holes. On TZe it may be more complicated. :/

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 10:58:02 am
content: Quote from: AVGresponding on February 02, 2024, 08:32:19 pmFYI, not all Brother tapes are thermal transfer. The P-touch printers that use M-series labels are direct-thermal only, and for the models that use Tze-series labels, unlaminated direct-thermal labels are available, too (though I’ve never seen them in the wild).

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 11:06:59 am
content: Quote from: mendip_discovery on February 03, 2024, 09:43:52 amThere are multiple types of laminated labels from Brother. There’s the standard ones, the “flexible ID” ones, and the “strong adhesive” ones.Flexible ID labels are designed to not lift when stuck to curved surfaces or around corners. These also tolerate autoclave sterilization.Strong adhesive labels are designed for rougher surfaces and the like.The labels that handle heat the best, according to Brother, are the “black on matte silver” labels, TZe-M9x1 series.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 11:11:06 am
content: Quote from: radar_macgyver on February 03, 2024, 03:06:43 pmI’ve only used the knockoff HSe tubes and I’ve found them to be disappointingly sensitive to oil — I have oily skin, and just the oil on my fingers is enough to smear the printing. I forget whether they’re more sensitive to oil before or after shrinking the tube, but I remember it affects it one way or the other. Regardless, I also add clear heat shrink over them.I have a genuine Brother HSe arriving at work next week, I’m curious to see if they’re better.

author: berke
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 11:36:13 am
content: For electronics I only do prototypes or shit that's sent up and doesn't come back, so it doesn't matter if it fades in two years. But I need a robust solution for labeling my house's mains wiring. It needs to still be readable in 20 years when myself or an electrician if I ever manage to hire one wants to read the label on a wire. Will quality name-brand tubing work for that or do I need another kind of label ?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 12:01:08 pm
content: What label printing equipment do you have?

author: berke
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 12:23:07 pm
content: Me? Right now I just have a basic handheld Dymo Letratag. Apparently I need to upgrade.

author: mendip_discovery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2024, 03:10:56 pm
content: Quote from: berke on February 04, 2024, 11:36:13 amI would go for Ferrule type markers and just put an index of it inside the box its in.https://www.flipkart.com/atek-pvc-ferrules-alphabet-a-z-cable-6mm-plastic-cable-marker-clip-wire-connector/p/itm9b38717506b96With maybe somehttps://www.powerandcables.com/product/cable-labels/laser-labels/as they can be laser printed and can have a human explanation on them.