YiHua Soldering Station 939D+ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: budhafoo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 08, 2015, 02:03:01 am
content: This YiHua 939D+ is advertised as using "Samsung CPU Control", ESD protect, Sleep function, 3 Memory Presets.It looks nice from the outside, good feel and build quality. But as with most chinese brand product, I just have to take a look inside before turning it on.Filthy looking boardHand Job anyone?Despite the ugly look - the CAP tested OK for ESR.The heating element measures 2.9ohm and 40-something ohm, a Hakko compatible right?The tip fitted to the ceramic element. Very loose, I wonder if Hakko ones is a perfect fit. I am asuming as long as the tip insert hole has a good flat surface, it should perform.I havent used it yet other than testing melting solder using different temp and test the tip temperature by a temp probe from a multimeter.I really wish I can buy (genuine) hakko..really. But this will have to do for now.BFSent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2015, 02:09:40 am
content: Quote from: budhafoo on August 08, 2015, 02:03:01 amThe Hakko tips are loose fitting by design, the elements get red hot so there has to be some gap to allow for expansion. How loosely the tips fit is another story as your station is not a Hakko. Your iron should though be compatible with genuine Hakko tips series 900M, 900L and T18.The 900L (old series) requires a collar sleeve adapter kit and is for high capacity tips. The 900M (old series) have additional tips but inferior thermal recovery to the T18 (newer series brought out with the FX888/FX888D). So stick to T18 first and 900M only if you have to.As these tips cost around $5 each there is no point in using the non genuine ones, just make sure you buy them from a genuine Hakko source to ensure you avoid fakes. If you decide you get a Hakko station later they will be ready to go.There are HAKKO FG-100 clones for calibrating your tips sold on ebay for around for $10.To clean up the PCB (it's just residue from flux/flux cleaner) you can use Isopropyl alcohol (IPA), a high percentage electronics grade is best. Avoid getting IPA in the trimmers, speaker and display.

author: jezsmith41
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2015, 05:30:46 am
content: The board doesn't look too bad the flux residue will come off' its certainly a lot better than solder stations you can get from high street shops.The temperature control may even be PID, the one I had some time ago was just a bang-bang control.Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2015, 12:15:50 pm
content: Genuine tip is abit loose when inserted into genuine Hakko 900 heater, from your photo, the gap is quite large.Check threads I made while ago and read it thoroughly as there are many info posted by other members too->Hakko 936 ceramic heater A1321 vs fake comparisonIf the Yihua ceramic heater is using the identical heater as Hakko's specification or identical driver circuit, then I guess you can easily swap the clone heater with genuine Hakko one as I did at above thread, and also using the genuine tip which is still available today.About the fake tips->Genuine vs fake Hakko solder tip comparison

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2015, 12:23:54 pm
content: That metal knob looks really good, although printing the "heat recovery graph" on the front is a bit tacky...The heater is Hakko compatible, the genuine one is spec'd at 2.5-3.5 ohms heater and 43-58 ohms sensor (at room temperature), but the tip clearance is much too big; get a genuine heater and tip and you should have much better performance.Related thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/genuine-vs-fake-hakko-936-ceramic-heater-a1321/White flux residue is the result of not-so-thorough cleaning with IPA; flux remover will do a much better job (see all the other threads about flux removal here.)

author: budhafoo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 11, 2015, 10:09:30 am
content: I resoldered some and cleaned the board right after. Also replaced the thin wire thats supposed to be ground wire.I browsed for some genuine hakko tips and heating element. They re not that expensive but with shipping and import charges, I have to buy lots of them to justify the price for each. S/H + import around 30 USD.My younger bro lives in the utd states. When he is visiting home (if ever) then I can just have him carry them hakko stuff.Thanks for all the links I will update if I find something interesting with this product in the future.BFSent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

author: sanchaz12
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2015, 09:05:34 am
content: It almost looks like they used the YiHua 936 to solder those components

author: rvalente
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 12:09:34 am
content: I believe this hakko clones have being so developed in the recent years that makes no difference at all for quality purposes.Just check for proper ground and ESD protection and will be good, mine were the cheapest I ever could find, the 937 station has 8+ years of almost daily use, never replaced the heater and the 852D, has under 2 years of age.One amazing thing is heaving two irons, one with a large tip and another one with a very precise one, helps a lot!