Front panel mounting for I²C OLEDs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: leonerd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2017, 08:55:25 pm
content: There's some nice I²C-attached OLEDs around these days; such as the 0.96" or 1.3" 128x64 modules you can find at Adafruit or cheap on eBay:https://www.adafruit.com/products/326http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231983424235I'm considering using one of these in a project inside an aluminium case, likely a Hammond 1455Q1601. I've used this case before with a panel-mount 7-segment LED voltmeter, that comes in its own plastic bezel; as seen athttps://twitter.com/cpan_pevans/status/818962003666599937I've looked long and hard around the internet and I don't seem to find anyone selling such a piece of plastic as would suit these modules. Adafruit have nothing, and the closest I've got so far is a 3D print model on Shapeways:http://www.shapeways.com/product/9DCGEV7M8/oled-0-96-quot-beveled-frame?optionId=40601993This looks about the right shape, though from what I can see of it, it lacks any sort of retaining clip to actually hold it into the cutout in a sheet-metal panel.Does anyone have any ideas on how I could mount one of these OLEDs on a front panel with a plastic bezel, or in some other way achieve a similar look as with my 7-segment?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2017, 12:13:54 am
content: Yes I don't see how that shapeways part is expected to be held in place, other than glue.I can't offer a solution, but if you want to do some mockup testing there are models available on grabcad for OLEDs:https://grabcad.com/library/1-3-oled-module-1https://grabcad.com/library/oled-128x64-spi-1Maybe secure the lcd flush to the sheetmetal with countersunk screws and glue the bezel on top of that which covers the screws. Bezel would have to be larger though.

author: dimbmw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2017, 01:53:39 am
content: Quote from: leonerd on January 11, 2017, 08:55:25 pmJust design it and 3D-print it, it is fairly easy.

author: rbm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2017, 04:08:07 am
content: I needed to mount a 16x2 LCD panel in a waterproof case for use on a motorcycle.My blog postshows the steps I took to mount the display onto a lexan faceplate and then into a Hammond case where I had made a bezeled opening. It's worked admirably for a couple years in varied weather.

author: technotronix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2017, 11:44:39 am
content: I think ebay would be better.

author: leonerd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2017, 11:29:32 pm
content: Quote from: dimbmw on January 12, 2017, 01:53:39 amCan you suggest any sort of 3D print technology with a surface finish looking similar enough to the injection-moulded bezels of those 7segment displays though? This is primarily a decorative element, not merely a functional one. I'd hate to be able to see the lamination layers on it from a cheap 3D print.

author: leonerd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2017, 11:35:19 pm
content: Quote from: rbm on January 12, 2017, 04:08:07 amYes, that looks like quite a nice effect on the plastic there. But I'm after doing it on an aluminium panel. Specifically, a panel of a Hammond 1455Q1601 case. I usually get the panel made up by Front Panel Express, for cutouts and infilled engraving.Your solution aims to solve largely the "how do I get the display to stay on the front panel" problem. I can solve that by just soldering the thing onto my front panel PCB. My problem is mostly not a physical mounting problem, it's a "how do I get that pretty matte-effect black plastic rectangle around the outside".

author: leonerd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2017, 11:40:39 pm
content: Quote from: technotronix on January 12, 2017, 11:44:39 amVague statement is vague. Can you be specific? What should I be looking for on eBay?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2017, 09:08:19 pm
content: Quote from: leonerd on January 12, 2017, 11:29:32 pmIf you go with shapeways or dirty SLA (white only) you can barely see the lines. Or not at all depending on the material.To smooth out a jagged FDM 3d print, can do acetone vapor (http://makezine.com/2014/09/24/smoothing-out-your-3d-prints-with-acetone-vapor/) for gloss, sand, or maybe spray with something thick.

author: dimbmw
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2017, 06:20:19 am
content: Quote from: leonerd on January 12, 2017, 11:29:32 pmSLA only then. And make sure you orient the thing so that supports are not touching the face side - this way you will not have to do any post - processing, no boring sanding etc. If you are ready to pay dearly, quickpart.com usually is very high quality.

author: leonerd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2017, 02:33:06 pm
content: I have a new idea.Rather than trying to find some sort of plastic bezel that sticks out over the front of the case, perhaps to snap in, I wonder if instead I should consider recess mounting the panel inside the case behind a cutout, and making that cutout durable somehow?For example, a regular rectangular hole with the OLED mounted just behind it would be functional, if looking pretty terrible. But if I got the edge milled down in a step, I could stick a small piece of smoked acrylic or somesuch into that hole to act as a protective panel, and I think that would look quite as bit better.If I wanted to make that, then I can easily get FPE to mill out that two-step cutout, but I'm having trouble now finding any sort of smoked plastic insert to put inside there. Smoked acrylic sheeting seems easy enough to get hold of in 3mm thickness, but the aluminum panel itself is only 1.5mm. I'd need something much thinner.

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 01, 2017, 03:02:38 am
content: I use 3mm clear acrylic and mill a step/recess around the outside of that so that it fits into the front panel cut-out and sits flush with the front. I also machine holes to match nearby buttons and mounting screws that then work to keep it in place, but it could also be carefully glued. You could even embed some countersunk screws to attach a backing panel to hold the OLED. Although it is 3mm, it effectively only adds 1.4mm overall depth, and provides good protection, but it does make the display look a little deeply set. Could do it in thinner (2mm) acrylic material if you cut matching recesses in both window and front panel. I also insert a thin rubber gasket (cut on a Silhouette Curio) as these devices are used around wet plant matter.