corner brackets - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2014, 09:54:22 pm
content: I am looking for small corner (right angle) brackets and fixings to secure PCB vertically. As the mounting holes are only 3mm from the bottom and sides and there are components around them, I am looking for small size brackets. Looking on ebay it seems the smallest is 19mm x 19mm eg herehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-off-19mm-right-ANGLE-BRACKETS-fixing-repair-joining-/261491572288?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item3ce21cbe40--- these are very common. I am looking for something exactly like that but maybe 10mm x 10mm if possible.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 11:16:12 am
content: I usually cut off a small section of some either aluminium or brass 1cm angle i keep, it is a pain to do because you have to file the edge smooth and drill holes etc. I will watch the thread to see if someone else has a better idea :-)

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 11:19:35 am
content: I have a 0.7mm sheet of aluminium which I cut pieces out of using a hand nibbler - but as you said is quite laborious, I'd much rather buy a bag of them brackets ready machined, filed and drilled.

author: andtfoot
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 04, 2014, 12:15:53 pm
content: Seems like the threaded one are imperial unfortunately, and they are a little bit expensive, but how about these?http://www.digikey.com.au/product-search/en/hardware-fasteners-accessories/mounting-brackets/2097394Element14/Farnell seem to have similar stuff as well.

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2014, 08:40:58 am
content: I made two brackets yesterday using a 1cm strip that I cutout of an 0.7mm aluminium sheet, then drilled holes. Warning: it gets very very hot when you drill holes on aluminium. Lesson learnt.

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 05, 2014, 09:23:22 am
content: Quote from: akis on June 05, 2014, 08:40:58 amUse WD40 as a coolant when drilling/milling aluminium. Methylated spirits works well too.

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2014, 08:15:36 am
content: Methylated spirits? Isn't that flammable?

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 06, 2014, 08:17:16 am
content: Yes it is but you don't get sparks from aluminium.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 06, 2014, 09:54:29 am
content: I use a lanolin based lubricant for cutting (lathe, mill and drill), its is really nice on your hands and is one of the best rust inhibitors I have found.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2014, 12:39:11 pm
content: Brackets: Keystone probably has you covered, e.g.http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/hardware-fasteners-accessories/mounting-brackets/2097394?k=bracketIncluding threaded and non-threaded types in various sizes. There may also be soldered types; of course, they're usually tin-plated brass or steel, so as long as you have a beefy enough iron, they're plenty solderable regardless.Or maybe you meant more like card guides;http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/E-200/492-1822-ND/3094561(panel mount)http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/VG2-3/492-1526-ND/3102497(screw mount, could be on PCB)etc.Which would pair nicely with an edge connector, or a mating pair of board-to-board types.Or if you like making your own, what I do is use tin snips to cut a strip, drill two holes in it, then bend with pliers. Material, take your pick: aluminum from 0.8-1.6mm is good, or brass if you're fancy (conductive, solderable), or steel (strong, solderable) -- but beware that zinc galvanized steel isn't very good for soldering. Plain bare steel is solderable, but rusts. Tin plated steel (if you see "tin sheet" they probably mean "tinplated steelsheet") is good if you can find it.And if you're that desperate, but much too lazy and not too handy, just go to the hardware store, or the local mail-order supplier (e.g., over here, probably McMaster Carr).And if we're talking PCBs, you can just expose copper along the edges and solder that. Not very strong. Or you can drill a series of holes in one board, and route fingers in the other (with bare copper); the fingered board can now be soldered through-hole into the other, and is supported by board stock, not just solder. Or for prototyping, copper clad.Tim

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2014, 03:18:08 pm
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on June 06, 2014, 12:39:11 pmThanks for the suggestions.I have done both. I have made a PCB with patterns of 1cm wide stripes which after development and etching, are then cut across every 2cm or so to produce a bunch of tabs. Each tab has a mounting hole on the top half and exposed copper on the bottom half. I attach the tab with bolt and nut to the PCB. The other side, which still has the copper is soldered onto a flat PCB which serves as the platform base, copper side up. Two tabs are more than man enough to hold a PCB vertically in place - and of course one can use more tabs, along the bottom of the PCB. We could also solder the tab onto the PCB but then there would be conductivity issues to worry about.I also have cut a 1cm wide strip out of 0.7 mm aluminium using a hand nibbler, it is not perfectly straight but who cares. Then cut the 1cm wide stripe into 2cm pieces bent in the middle to make the corner brackets and drilled with 3mm drill. Which is where I burned my fingers because the 2cm x 1cm piece of aluminium is just too small to hold down with anything other than my hands while drilling.