hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Convert Internet TV/Stream to HDTV  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: humgar
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2020, 02:58:30 am
content: I'm trying to come up with a solution to help very low-tech TV users to receive internet broadcasts as plain (digital) tunable TV channels WITHOUT LEARNING new keys or deal with 2 remote controls.The main difficulty would be detecting the current TV channel in session and switch the pass-through (injector) box to receive contents mapped to the custom channel. Anybody can help me with it?It'd be helpful to fight censorship in countries which the government dominated the RF spectrum to spread exclusively their propaganda.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2020, 03:30:28 am
content: Add a small IR blaster in front of the TV that defaults to jamming it. Now the channel up/down buttons will no longer have any effect on the TV and can be used to control your custom app. If some other button is pressed that you do want the TV to act on, momentarily stop the jamming in order to replay the command.

author: humgar
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2020, 03:44:28 am
content: Quote from: NiHaoMike on April 26, 2020, 03:30:28 amI actually thought of ideas similar to hijacking the remote control signals. The problem is that this project is intended for mass deployment and work on arbitrary TVs with a digital receiver. I'd be happy to do this maneuver for my parents, but it's not practical for the purpose of helping less tech savvy people fight government's media dictatorship.Basically, here are the constraints- user must be able to access PRESET internet streams and turn on the TV using the factory remote control- must not require customization for different TV brands/models.
Find max dcdc reg output current when datasheet only gives peak inductor current - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 01:54:52 am
content: If I have a monolithic dcdc reg and the datasheet does not give a max output current but does have a peak inductor current limit, how can I figure out what the chips max output current is. (Assuming adequate cooling/chip temp of cause)I assume the peak inductor current is not the same as max output current.The chip i'm looking at has a built in max peak current limit of 4.33 A or 6.5A depending on version.And i'm trying to figure out if it would be usable for 9-16V in and 9-16V out at 3A (sepic)https://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/LM5157

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 02:28:26 am
content: Without knowing any details, I would assume that the peak inductor current needs to be multiplied by the duty cycle to determine steady current. Actually, this would only be true if inductor current were square. If inductor current is caused by a square voltage, then it's a triangle wave and its resultant dc would be less, no more than 1/3 of the peak, times the duty cycle. All this, neglecting abberrations such as spikes.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 03:39:51 am
content: yeah, i figured there must be a way to calculate it, i just have no idea how.But taking the duty cycle into account makes sense.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 05:17:33 am
content: The peak current is never less than the output current and it approaches the output current as the inductor ripple current approaches zero. Otherwise in continuous conduction mode:Ipeak = Iout + Dcycle(Vin-Vout)/(2LF)Linear Technology application note 19 discusses the parameters for the various switching topologies.
Convert Rode VideoMic Pro to wall power (Completed w/ video) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: accesscontrolforum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 01:40:14 am
content: Does anyone have any opinion or any reason why not convert the rode video mic Pro to accept power via a transformer?Thanks

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 07:49:56 am
content: Most likely the noise from the mains which will be imposed on the supply to the microphone, which likely does not have the best PSRR as normally batteries are low noise. Not much you can do about that using a plain wall wart, which has capacitance from input mains side to the output side. Grounded one will also introduce mains noise from the ground onto the audio as hum, crackles and other noise, especially if you have anybody in the neighbourhood using a power line internet connection.You probably are best off using rechargeable cells to power it, or a small external case with a larger pack of cells, or a 2s lithium pack and balancer, with external charger you plug in when not in use. The microphone will work with that, and still will be portable and last a long time per charge, plus you will not be tied to as socket outlet.

author: accesscontrolforum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 03:38:33 pm
content: I don't care about portability just a low battery which cost me hours of of unusable audio. But noise on the other hand is a big deal. thanks for the input! I may try it for the fun of it. Then compare levels and noise in Vegas pro 13. thanks!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 03:42:40 pm
content: Grab a cheap 2S lithium cell charge controller off eBay, and 2 18650 cells to go with it. Put a low battery indicator on it and a charger and you will be able to record hours with ease. Make 2 packs up so you can just change them ( hot swap if you want using some diodes) and charge for a long life, or just use the 2 packs in parallel for longer life.

author: accesscontrolforum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2016, 02:38:39 am
content: I did it and it seems ok.
Convert salvaged Samsung TV WebCam to Windows Webcam - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NathanBxr
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 06:47:39 am
content: I pulled to bits a 2014? Samsung TV recently, i kept the webcam that has 2 microphones and a 1920x1080 30fps webcam.I soldered a USB cable to the USB pads on the board and got it working on Linux, but on windows it doesnt work, it looks to select the wrong driver, that does not see the cam ind mic's.The USB pads connect to an AiT 8422F thats a "multi-media processor for portable devices with embedded 32-bit ARM9 processor"Any tips to get it running would be good, i can then 3D print up a case and use it as my webcam, as i dont have oneOn linux it shows up asQuoteand some other camera infoQuoteAnd on windows it has a :(Quote

author: magic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 08:11:59 am
content: I'm not that familiar with modern Windows anymore, but usbccgp.sys is supposed to be the driver for USB composite devices so it doesn't seem a wrong choice. It looks like the driver should enumerate all the interfaces of the device (there is likely UVC for video and UAC for audio) and then allow appropriate class drivers to attach to them.https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/usbcon/usb-device-layoutHowever, further enumeration of device interfaces apparently fails for some reason. This webcam has likely never been tested for Windows compatibility, it may not be 100% compliant with USB specs or maybe Windows isn't 100% compliant and has some special requirements. Perhaps there is some other problem that's only triggered by Windows
Convert single input to multi output with enable/disable for each output - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: whiskeyjack
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2020, 09:07:39 am
content: I want to connect 8 LEDs to one GPIO. GPIO goes high LEDs turn ON, GPIO goes LOW LEDs turn OFF or opposite logic - both are acceptable. I want to have some sort of IC in between which allows me to select one or more LEDs to turn ON when my GPIO goes HIGH (or LOW). It will be convenient if I can do this selection using i2c. So, if I have LED1 ... LED8 and I have enabled 2, 5, 7 then I can do a PWM on my GPIO and only LED - 2, 5, 7 turn ON based on PWM. Rest (1,3,4,6,8) remain OFF.I am looking at demultiplexer list on Digikey but haven't found the right IC yet. Can someone help me select a part number? The IC needs to generate a weak logic output only. I will a mosfet/transistor to drive the LED from this weak logic output.

author: ggchab
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2020, 02:05:38 pm
content: An I/O expander like the MCP23017 ? Each of them could control 2 sets of 8 LEDs
convert wirewrap to soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: drakke
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2015, 04:37:27 pm
content: I am total beginner at electronics and planned on building a 8088 single board computer using the wire wrap technique from this book:http://www.amazon.com/Build-Your-Microcomputer-Based-Intel/dp/0827370695But the WW sockets are expensive and I really don't want to learn wirewrapping so I thought I would breadboard the circuits to test that they are working correctly and then permenatly solder them onto a circuit board so I have something permanent with which to experiment.What is the best type of board for this?I was looking athttp://www.veroboard.com/but there is a huge variety.Thanks.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2015, 04:54:02 pm
content: You could get some regular thin wood boards and some heavier gauge solid core copper wire and use bits of that copper wire as points to solder stuff to. Closest to the old wirewrap look I guess.Otherwise you can buy tons of veroboard style pcbs on eBay... not great quality but good for practice, temporary projects and so on. You can buy packs of 10 or packs of 25 of various sizes and various land shapes/strips etc.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2015, 05:13:18 pm
content: Personally I would start with something less complex. A frequency counter is a traditional first project. Simple means it will be cheap, easy to debug, and you get positive/negative feedback quickly.Whatever you choose, make sure you get an introductory electronics book and understand "decoupling" and "power supply layout". If you don't you will be forever chasing intermittent faults - which are a real pig to find and remove.

author: drakke
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2015, 05:57:27 am
content: I think this may be the best solution:http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Prototype-Without-Using-Printed-Circuit-Boa/I will be running little 'experiments' on this so need it to be a little durable to withstand some handling.
Converting a 125V power supply to 220-240V - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Marmotta
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 09:36:55 pm
content: So, I have a Panasonic Q Gamecube/DVD Player which, as they were only released in Japan, has a 125V PSU that I would like to convert to 240V if at all possible. I'm not too familiar with this side of things, so any suggestions would be appreciated.By the looks it seems to be a form of multiple phase power supply, with the first transformer stepping down the voltage to around 94V, which I thought might make it easier to convert. I can't find any detailed info on the transformer, but my guess it is Myrra/Panasonic and it has "952 12 10Y" on the top of it.In theory, if I changed that transformer and increase the voltage rating of the two capacitors to the right of it to 400V or so it should work. Right?

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 10:02:38 pm
content: Why not simply get a 230V to 120V step down transformer? They've fairly easy to get hold of and aren't expensive.

author: Marmotta
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 10:13:24 pm
content: Quote from: Hero999 on October 05, 2015, 10:02:38 pmI've used stepdown converters many times and obviously that would be the sensible thing to doReally it's just so I can keep my AV setup as de-cluttered as possible and maybe learn a thing or two in the process.

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 10:17:34 pm
content: That first "transformer" is a common mode choke and is part of the input filtering.

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2015, 10:53:43 pm
content: Don't see anything that would need to be changed on that board. Likely that the power supply is a switcher. If that doesn't have two 200-250V electrolytics in series, it likely can't be converted and a transformer is needed.

author: calzap
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2015, 01:29:20 am
content: Inductor on the right appears to be a Panasonic line filter. Here's a link:http://www.panasonic.net/id/ctlg/data/pdf/AEL0000/AEL0000PE28.pdf.You would have to swap-out the other inductor, which would be the step-down transformer, make sure everything on the line side of it can take 240 VAC (including trace spacing on the PCB), and use a lower amperage fuse. Quicker, cheaper and safer to use an external step-down transformer.Mike in California
Converting Altium TH vias to microvias - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: electronx
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 01:39:38 pm
content: I want to convert Altium TH vias to microvia. Is there a shortcut for this? Can I use the template?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 12:28:25 am
content: Correct section of the forum:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/altium/Can't you just use filter to select them, go to properties, and change the via type?

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 12:26:41 pm
content: Either use PCB List. Make one and copy the data from that over the orhers.Or right click and select similar items.
Converting Aruba AP-105 to IAP-105 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2020, 01:32:33 am
content: I recently set up a couple of Aruba IAP-105 "instant" access points, these are enterprise controllerless access points that have their own built in virtual controllers, pretty slick. In the process I also picked up one of the AP-105 units for just the cost of postage because I was curious how similar the hardware is to the instant models. According to the info I found it's possible to convert an instant AP to a standard one but not the other way around. The hardware *looked* identical but I wasn't certain so I hooked up test clips directly to the flash chip and dumped the contents from each of the units I had.I flashed the IAP-105 dump directly to the AP-105, powered it up and was surprised to see it booted right up and now functions perfectly as an IAP-105. The problem however is that it is an exact clone of the real IAP-105 including the MAC addresses which I have not found a way to change. This proves that the hardware is indeed identical but means that while I could easily convert AP-105's to the much more useful IAP-105's, I can't mix any of those with the real IAP-105's I ripped the ROM images from. Before I expend too much effort I'm curious if anyone has already figured out how to alter the MAC address on these or found an easier way to convert it. I discovered there is an OpenWRT build that works on them however the stock firmware is really pretty slick and makes it very easy to set up WiFi mesh networks. I don't really need more of these APs, it's really more of an academic exercise but I feel like it could be useful information for somebody. AP-105's are widely available and practically free but the requirement of a separate expensive controller really limits their usefulness.

author: slmicro1909@gmail.com
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 09:22:45 pm
content: Could you share IAP-105 firmware that you read? And MAC address - it should be easy to find appropriate position of flashed MAC in firmware.I also has some AP-105 but have not original IAP-105 firmware to be able to reflash my AP with IAP image...

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2021, 10:19:45 pm
content: It's not that simple. I tried a lot of different things, including firmware I got from someone else, I forget what I eventually determined but I was never able to set the MAC address to something arbitrary. Seems like the firmware I got from someone else was for an international hardware version which was different than the US version. While I could find the MAC in the firmware on mine, changing it didn't actually change it. I eventually gave up, not sure whether I still have the files or not.
Converting digital scope from usb connection to WiFi method - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: phred01
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2022, 08:21:39 pm
content: My aim is to use WiFi to carry the USB signalling but unsure how to achieve this goal. The Hantek 1008c scope uses a USB to connect to a PC or an Android tablet for display purposes. On hand have a TP-Link N150 WiFi printer sever that has a USB port. So would like to change the function from printer USB to scope USB operaton and create a virtual USB connection from the WiFi input. Any suggestions wold be greatly appreciated

author: magic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2022, 09:37:21 pm
content: USB/IP is supposedly a thing, but it may not be easy to install on a router because it needs kernel modules (which are unlikely to be included in the factory image).I have never used it myself.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2022, 04:59:40 pm
content: Would be nice to know why you want this solutionis it for insulation, remote monitoring from a distance ....not sure if a print server will go both ways efficiently, if the scope connects thru bluetooth, you have a range around 30 feet or less ??

author: phred01
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2022, 03:46:41 am
content: The Hantek 1003c and 6022BE are USB only. It is very hard to keep out the interference generated by a computer If giving a lecture anyone can log in with their phone and see on the screen the waveforms

author: darkspr1te
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2022, 05:32:09 am
content: Quote from: phred01 on May 18, 2022, 08:21:39 pmI was looking at the same idea for the 1008c with the stm32f103c8 cpu, my initial idea was USB over IP but then i started looking at it in a different way and started making a flex cable pcb that will allow me to replace the cpu with a esp dev board. i've already dumped the stm32 firmware and will look at porting that to esp32 or just to C in general but it's looking easier to start from scratch. we shall see.darkspr1te

author: phred01
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2022, 08:44:53 am
content: Apparently Novaspirit Tech had trained a Raspberry Pi 0 2W as a sever Dirt cheap micro @10$ but very hard to buy Ordered one from Elektor by snail mail so won't getting it for sometime GB--> Oz So bought 2nd hand print sever that converts USB to WiFi. In theory any USB device should work but the the problem is @ the PC end need a APP to create a virtual USB portal out of the Wifi connection just like the Hantek iDSO1070A doesUnfortunately the screen shot of the how to are a bit fuzzy. Doing screen shots then printing them was very iffy
Converting eDP or DDI to a DVI - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alFN
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 09, 2018, 11:29:49 am
content: Hello,I'm trying to use the eDP or DDI port of an Intel® Atom Processor E3900 Series to drive a DVI monitor but I can't find how to do this.I'm completely lost between DDI eDP DP DP++ HDMI DVI.I thought eDP and DP were the same, but for example during my investigation, I contacted NXP to confirm that the PTN3380B used to convert DP to DVI would work and their answer was that it wouldn't work with eDP or DDI.Does anyone knows how to do this ?Best regards,al
Converting feeder to external power - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: scribble
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2019, 10:05:57 am
content: I have a Surepet pet food bowl that has an automatic lid that keeps the food covered to keep flies off.It uses 4x "C" batteries in series which only last a month or so, so want to convert it to external power.It has 3 illuminated buttons and when it's first turned on they normally light for about 5 seconds then go out and the device will then respond to movement/shadows.I connected up a bench supply set to 6v, turned the device on and the buttons just stayed lit for about 10sec, went out but it won't respond to triggers or button presses.So I disconnected the leads from the bench supply and connected up to 4x "C" in a series string just sitting on the bench and the feeder boots and works correctly.I put a meter in series and it draws around 30mA normally and about 200mA when opening/closing the lid, so nothing the bench supply can't handle.I've tried multiple non-battery power sources of various voltages between 5-6v but none work, only the batteries will.I can't understand why it won't work on an external supply?

author: johnkenyon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2019, 02:52:23 pm
content: Check the wiring of the battery compartment.Are you sure that the thing takes just a 6v supply?Is there an extra wire which goes to one of the intermediate contacts?For example, it might have 3 wires - zero volts, 4.5v, 6v with 4.5v feeding the movement sensor, and the 6v connection going to the motor/solenoid that opens the lid.

author: scribble
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2019, 12:49:38 am
content: As far as I can tell it's just 6v (or there abouts, 4x C cells) as I can connect the 4 batteries in series outside of the battery compartment and feed that to the +/- contacts inside the compartment and it works fine. Take the same hookup wires and connect to a 6v power supply and it doesn't complete the boot process.

author: Bratster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2019, 05:52:39 pm
content: How much current is the power supply you are using rated for?My guess would be the feeder draws a large spike of current when it powers up and the power supply can't handle that and dips down in voltage.That maybe too fast to see with a multimeter, you would need a scope.You could also try adding some large capacitors to the output of the power supply and then try turning on the feeder and see if that makes a difference.you would turn the power supply on with the capacitors connected so they will charge up, and then you would connect the feeder after they are charged up.Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

author: ejeffrey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2019, 09:53:01 pm
content: Some battery powered device can be super sensitive to EMI. This can be because of sheer laziness or because the use some very high impedance sensors. Try hooking up to batteries but connect the negative terminal only to your psu ground. If it fails then the problem is EMI. Otherwise probably transient power draw.
Converting Instant Pot Pro from 120V to 240V – Need Guidance - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Oleks
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 16, 2025, 01:04:54 pm
content: Hi everyone. I recently picked up a cheap U.S. Instant Pot Pro and I’d like to convert its power supply from 120V to 240V. From what I can see, it looks almost ready for the modification, but since I’m not very experienced with electronics, I’m hoping someone can guide me through it. Also, if anyone from a 240V region has the same or a similar model, could you please share a picture of the inside (it only takes removing one screw)?ps it's not a universal 120/240V model.

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2025, 02:19:31 pm
content: Sorry, modifying the power supply won't do any good, since the heating element is designed for 120V.You would have to use a (large) stepdown transformer.

author: Oleks
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 16, 2025, 02:54:22 pm
content: Ups, I did not think the obvious. Thank you. Now have to find expensive European IP for parts or get second US to run in series ). I used this adapter for initial pressure boiling test. Marked "1600W". Let's see if my home survive prolonged use... )

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2025, 02:55:54 pm
content: simples

author: Oleks
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 16, 2025, 04:00:32 pm
content: Yeah, I have to invest in a couple of transformers. I did convert a DeWalt battery charger once, cheap and easy, and never thought twice that the trick doesn’t always work.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2025, 03:39:56 am
content: Check the rating of the MOV, if it's rated for 240V, the power supply is already universal 120/240V. For the heating element, replacing it with the 240V version would be easiest if you can find one for cheap enough, otherwise a series SCR circuit to cut the AC wave would be a good option.
Converting oscilloscope probes. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2013, 03:20:55 pm
content: I wanted oscilloscope probes that would auto set the voltage on my scope, but could not find any that would not cost more than the scope did.I found by experimenting that 10K ohms would switch the scope to 10X and a zero ohms would switch to 100X and open was 1X.I found some round end pogo pins on ebay in China and soldered them direct to the BNC of my 100X probes and then used 10 K smd resistors soldered to the pogo pins for 10X probes, I had to insulate the pogo pins on these ones from the bnc using shrink sleeving, this required cutting a grove into the bnc's in order to make the pogo pins come into contact with the contact rings on the scope, ended up doing this with a needle file, quicker than trying to mount the bnc in the mill without squashing it.I then super glued the pins into the grove and soldered the free end of the smd resistor to the bnc, the heat compromised the super glue so I had to apply some epoxy on top and then cover with shrink sleeve.I now have auto detect on the probes for pennies.

author: ElectronicTonic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 03, 2013, 02:58:56 pm
content: Very clever. Thanks for the tip. I knew about 10k-ohm for 10X probe. I didn't know there was also a 100X option with a short.
converting power supply signal into pulse signal - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: john23
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2024, 10:16:04 am
content: Hello , I have a power supply which outputs +12V -12V as shown below in the CSV csources and plots.I get stable 12V -12V after a secondIs there a way to take the voltage after its being stable and make a pulse as shown below(or close to it) after 5seconds or so?(automatickly without using MCU)Or atleast when the "device recognises we have 12V and -12V stable then it releases them at once(not like the power suplly does it)?Thanks.

author: PGPG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2024, 11:36:01 am
content: I suppose it should be possible to be done with NE555.If the pulse have to be square than next 555, if not than C+R at first 555 output will be enough.

author: jwet
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2024, 02:12:23 pm
content: "Supervisor" IC's do essentially what you want. Their purpose is to hold reset low (usually on a micro) while Vcc is ramping and a bit after to get the logic ininitialized. Most modern supervisors are 50 - 250 mS delay time but there are vintage parts that used a cap to set the delay. There are some negative supervisors as well. You could easily do similar with a comparator, reference and some R's and C's. I'm sure you could get a 555 to do this as well, they'll do anything...Old supervisor type circuits worth looking at include the TL7712 (set up for 12v). There also a lot of "Ideas for Design" circuits that were variations on this voltage detect and delay theme.Good Luck

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2024, 03:23:23 pm
content: Yes, Jwet's suggestion to use a power supervisor IC is the right way to go about it. Masochists might build that functionality with a voltage reference, a pair of window comparators, one for each rail and a retriggerable delay, but when you can get it all in one IC for not a lot of money that's not the smart way to do it.If you need power rails that cleanly transition from OFF to ON, take the POWER_GOOD signal from the supervisor circuit and use it to gate a pair of MOSFETs, a NMOS in the negative rail and PMOS in the positive rail, with gate resistors chosen to keep the inrush current within the MOSFET's SOA. An even better solution is to use automotive protected high side, and low side, switch ICs (instead of the MOSFETs) which basically give your power rails overload protection + the switching you need.

author: PCB.Wiz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2024, 09:46:50 pm
content: Quote from: john23 on October 08, 2024, 10:16:04 amAs above, Voltage Supervisor / Voltage monitor / Voltage detector parts can do this, and there is a subset calledwindow detectorsthat have dual comparators for over and under voltage.You can use both to confirm (say) +12 is over +10V and -12 is under -10V - all voltage driven, no time assumptions needed.see alsohttps://www.analog.com/en/resources/design-notes/flexible-overvoltageundervoltage-detector-monitors-negative-and-positive-voltages.html
converting power up sequence into automatic using pulses reccomendations - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: john23
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2024, 05:23:14 am
content: Hello, In the photo and datasheet attached and i have a power up sequence of CGHV1A250F.I need to make circuit which makes it autimatic using a delay between pulses.What logic do you reccomend me to use so with pulses i could implement this startu sequence?Thanks.

author: xvr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2024, 08:56:20 pm
content: MCU (if already exists) or just shift register (like 74HC164)Add: 74HC299 will be better - it could provide both turn on and turn off sequence
Converting standard leds to rgb with wled control....  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Antonpuk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 25, 2024, 04:53:26 pm
content: this is m y first attempt at designing anything other then replacement parts for excising equipment so thought id ask for advice.so their are a total of 8 single leds and 1 dual colour led in the set up currently (represented by switches in the design) my idea is to remove them and use the 5v the will revive when turning on to activate addressable rgb leds. 8 of the leds are in couples one green on ered depending on there state. so i can replace 9 leds with 5 rgb ones in theory.so depending which original led was activated the pi would activate the appropriate rgb replacement then using available software for the pi over wifi i can adjust what colors the new rgb pixels show in response. i through the schematic together based on what i know i may need pull down resistors also on the inputs but ill check that on bread board.Dose anyone see any issues with my plans or design i want it to be as compact as possible i really don't think there is a need for transistors or any more circuitry then iv used but hopefully you guys will let me know .the plan is to eventual make it in to a single board if all works out let me know what you think

author: Antonpuk
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 25, 2024, 05:47:30 pm
content: already noticed a fee issues with the gpio my fault for using copy paste updated layout below.
Converting TV to Battery Power --- LCD Backlight Sense? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NotANewbie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2024, 06:04:22 am
content: I'm quite stuck on my project to convert a Toshiba 42in TV to battery power.Hope to get some help from those more knowledgable. Step 1 was to replace the gas tube backlight with leds.I got this working, however, the lcd "pixel board" that connects directly to the lcd has a ribbon cable that went to one of the tube driver boards (there was one each side). Just disconnecting it and the lcd would not turn on. However, I discovered if I only connected the ground wire to the tube driver board from the AC power supply, it would then turn on. The "pixel board" connect had these marked pins Dimm-In, Gnd, NC, Sens-CB, NC, Gnd, Dimm-OutThe NC (assume not connected) were actually connected to GND (assume it means ground..).When I tested all these pins when it was working, they all seemed to be grounded. So I connected them all together with one wire and connected it to the gnd pin on the backlight AC power board, and it works. But if I connect this to any other ground on the AC board it does not work.The multimeter shows they are all gnds. So I am baffled. I just moved ahead and replaced all the DC outputs on the AC board that go to the controller board dc power supply, and of course, it still doesn't work unless this ground is connected to the backlight ac board gnd.My guess is that somehow the "pixel board" is not turning on the LCD unless it senses the backlight is on. There is 24v that is generated for the tube drivers, but I don't have this 24v connected to anything and it still works when just the gnd is connected. I would only add that when the tv is turned the AC board does not turn on the backlight 24v output until a a 3.3v signal is given, then it turns on the 24vdc output. So while I get continuity from the other gnds to the backlight gnd, is there some possible way it can tell the 24v is not on?
converting UKV to FM. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Deactivated-1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2020, 10:14:25 pm
content: UKV which is a 65.8–74 MHz FM band, also called OIRT apparently according to Wikipedia.so I want to modify this UKV modulator? converter? I think box to pickup higher frequency bands, the whole modern FM band would be great but to be exact I want 94MHz - 103MHz to be picked upif it's still not possible simply to get so wide range then either 98MHz - 103Mhz or even 104 Mhz to 106Mhz will probably be enough.here's the schematic for the modulator thingy from a rigonda 102.[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ]unfortunately, it doesn't have the inductor values specified, I'll try to find the specs and post them here if I can.

author: orbanp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2020, 01:20:40 pm
content: What is the model number of the radio? (It sounds like it might not be the Rigonda-102.)Rigonda has different tube radio models where the FM tuner does vary a little bit from one another (like L4 is a tapped coil or not).This is a slug tuned FM module. In my experience (I converted one similar FM tuner to the CCIR band) it involves making new coils, just changing capacitances did not work. Lots of experimentation, as well as simulations, so you better have some test instruments as well. The other problem is, as you identified, that the coverage of the CCIR band is a lot wider than the old OIRT band. I did not achieve full coverage.The other tube-based FM module I converted was capacitor tuned. It also needed new coils as well as a number of capacitor changes. There I achieved full coverage (88MHz - 108MHz).Regards, Peter
Converting Windows help file to a more user friendly format?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dazz1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2025, 10:46:59 am
content: HiI had a requirement to convert Windows .hlp files to something I can read. This format is no longer supported by Windows. There is no way of reading it with Win10/11.I spent AGES looking for a method of converting a manual from .hlp format to something I can read.Lots of methods no longer work, or are very complicated.Finally I found this:https://sourceforge.net/projects/helpdeco/This is a Linux program that Decompiles Help files to rtf format ( -r option).It is simple and it works.It is not perfect, the links are gone, but it is entirely readible.

author: abeyer
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2025, 05:32:40 pm
content: Haven't done it in a long time, but there were also some tools that would convert hlp to chm, which in itself is also deprecated and not terribly useful anymore, but they would preserve links and stuff in the process. Then since chm was html based there are far more modern tools that can work with it. Would be a bit more work, but might get you better fidelity to the original if you care to.
Cooled CCD camera real performance? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sam1275
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2014, 11:29:33 am
content: Hello everyone, I want to know will older Cooled CCD cameras on ebay outperform newer high-end Sony uncooled ones (ex. Watec 902H2 Ultimate/910HX) in ultra low light conditions? I cannot find any comparable video on Youtube...Thanks.

author: TSL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2014, 11:13:22 pm
content: What's the application ?What performance are you looking for ?cheersTim

author: sam1275
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2014, 07:43:12 am
content: Quote from: TSL on December 30, 2014, 11:13:22 pmNight vision, sensitivity and quality in darkness.

author: Conrad Hoffman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2014, 05:11:36 pm
content: I doubt you can beat a cooled slow scan CCD camera, but they're not practical for many applications, moving objects for example, at least not fast moving objects. The cameras used for astronomy would be a good example. Incredible sensitivity and good resolution, but not super fast to capture and operate.

author: LaserSteve
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2015, 12:18:17 am
content: Take a look at cameras that use Sony's Hole Accumulation Diode technology. Ie HAD, HyperHad, and HyprHAD II. I've used them in labs for years. When the budget can't justify a cooled CCD, I'll reach for a HAD based camera.Steve

author: sam1275
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2015, 01:57:06 am
content: Quote from: Conrad Hoffman on December 31, 2014, 05:11:36 pmThank you, I just read a PDF and realized they were designed for still picture shooting, but some have a analog video output port, is it able to use them as a video camera?

author: sam1275
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2015, 02:03:06 am
content: Quote from: LaserSteve on January 01, 2015, 12:18:17 amThank you, I already know Sony's HAD CCDs, and those are exactly what I mentioned (Watec 902/910), they already outperform Gen I image intensifier tubes, I just found there's some used cooled CCD cameras on ebay and not that expensive, so I want to know how they will do VS Sony's HAD, I even searched for ICCD or EMCCD, but they are too expensive even on ebay...
Cooler Master Heatsink Fan of Intel LGA 775 on AMD Ryzen - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: marhuum
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2023, 01:01:06 pm
content: Can we use Cooler Master Heatsink Fan Processor PC Intel LGA 775 or other Intel cooling fan for Ryzen 5 5000 series CPU?How thumb rule to accomplish it correctly ?

author: philwong5176
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2023, 02:29:38 pm
content: LGA 775 cpu fans have 3 pins, while Ryzen fans have 4 pins.I would just order a Ryzen fan, your cpu costs a lot more than the fan.Also, the bracket points of a LGA775 socket is positioned differently from a AM4 scoket.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2023, 02:48:29 pm
content: I think he means the entire block of heatsink+fan, which won't fit by any means, the mounting system is completely different.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 29, 2023, 02:53:36 pm
content: As long as motherboard supports DC voltage control, there is no issue using 3 pin fan. If the cooler has standard AM2/AM3 socket mounting accessories, you most likely will be able to put it on AM4 as well. If they are not standard, YMMV. IIRC holes around the socket are in different positions than AM2/3. If they are lost, or cooler was LGA 775 exclusive, you won't be able to use it on AM4 in LGA 775 configuration.
Cooling fan speed controller (Microchip TC646, et. al.) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: iXod
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2020, 04:09:25 pm
content: I'm using a Microchip TC646 temperature-regulated, PWM speed controller circuit to regulate the speed of a 48vdc fan.The recommended circuit in the datasheet has fixed upper and lower speed limits using fixed resistors (p. 16):http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/21446D.pdfIf I want to change this circuit so that the limits can be adjusted via pots, which resistors should be replaced with pots? Is this as straightforward as using trimmers in place of R1 & R3?Also, Microchip makes another series of chips, the TC642/647. What's the difference from the 646? (The complete family is 642, 646, 647, 648, 649.) The datasheets read as duplicates except for the Behavioral Algorithm.Thanks,iX
CoOS vs. CTL of Crossworks - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sgpee
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2011, 07:22:49 am
content: Hi All,I am making some progress with my project (ARM M3 based, using STM32). I initially wanted to use CTL of Crossworks as a task library but later come across this Coocox development environment and oS.Do you guys have any experience with CooCox (CoOS)? It is much more smaller than FreeRtos and it does have what I need in terms of OS libraries. I am really trying to streamline my development, any mistake here has dire consequences.So far:- Tool chain - GNU- Tools: Crossworks- STD Lib: Crossworks (or something else)- OS: Open- JTAG: FTDI based USB, OlimexAppreciate your feedback.Sgpee

author: tyblu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2011, 03:32:10 pm
content: "dire consequences"? You do realize there will be mistakes made in every step of the way...
Copper clad FR4 maximum temperature - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: negativ3
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 06, 2017, 02:20:39 am
content: Hi all,I have tried reflow soldering some trial components onto pre-sensitised, developed and FeCI3 etched copper clad.I am getting charring/discoloration of the board at 230°C max reflow.Does anyone have some words of wisdom to pass along before I wreck more samples?Thank you.
Copper-filled vias:  knowledge repository HERE - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: frogblender
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2025, 07:00:36 pm
content: Need some help with copper-filled vias which are then plated over. The "plated-over" part allows for via-in-pad. The "copper-filled" part means the via has substantially more thermal and electrical conductivity (3x for typical via sizes, I read somewhere).Copper-filled vias are different than vias filled with a non-conductiveepoxy. This post only discussescopper.Copper-filled vias are a significant cost adder to your PCB. (JLC, for example, wants an extra $400 or so for copper-filled on a rando board I submitted).Boardshops cannot copper-filllargevias - they can only fill vias smaller than... about .014" (0.35mm) drill or so (IIRC?).Our SMT shop claims they will have no issues placing or reworking components, despite the giant thermal mass of copper-filled vias (including the large copper planes the vias are connected to).Does one normally copper-fillallvias on a PCB, or just the ones which will be carrying high-current-high-wattage? How does one specify which vias are to be filled?If you have experience with copper-filled vias, please chime in.(and yes, I know the simple answer is "just ask your boardshop"... but me and whoever the knowledgeable guy at the boardshop is are insulated by too many layers of management, so I'd like a base knowledge so as not to look like a noob)
Copper Foil/Tape with Reinforced Insulation: Does it Exist? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2019, 08:58:55 pm
content: Hi everyone,For those who may work with power electronics, specifically transformer construction, maybe you will have an answer to the following.I'm trying to meet a very low secondary DCR target on a miniaturized transformer I'm working on. I'm considering using copper foil, but I think it will be impossible to meet the primary-secondary creepage requirements of EN60950. The bobbin winding window width is just shy of 4mm. I also need 4mm creepage for EN60950, so according to my initial analysis, I can't see how that will work. (With a larger bobbin winding dimension, meeting the creepage requirement is much easier.)Has anyone used any kind of reinforced/triple insulated copper foil in transformer design? Does it exist? If so, how would you terminate to it (flying wires) without violating safety requirements.I know this is pretty niche, so if you have any other ideas or input, I'd appreciate that too.Thanks!

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2019, 03:36:44 am
content: Possibly. I'm not sure that I've seen that, but I have seen foil wrapped with tape, which does the same thing of course but with more labor.Is a planar transformer an option?Tim

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2019, 05:09:20 pm
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on May 01, 2019, 03:36:44 amThanks for your reply.I found this supplier:https://en.cmc.de/page/kupfer-abschirmbandBut I don't think it's anything more special than pre-cuffed copper foil, using typical PET or Kapton materials. I suppose I was wondering if there was a coated/dipped tape available, similar to triple insulated wire. Looks like probably not.Planar is looking more and more like the answer. Estimating that I still need to cut the copper losses in half or more, with an already maxed out winding area.Thanks again.