Unitrend UT-61E - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: janengelbrecht
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2014, 10:15:22 pm
content: I was about to buy a Unitrend UT-61E multimeter because of its specs: True RMS and because it can measure frequency up to 220MHz...but then I saw it on this list:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-list-of-multimeters-that-do-not-appear-to-meet-their-claimed-safety-specs/I understand the problem is: CATIII/1000V CATIV/600V ceramic fuses rated at 250V used on current ranges with 250V voltage warning on meter.Ok...not good for doing messurements on 230V equipment thenThe question is.....is there any other problems with this Multimeter then ?(Will only use it for Low Voltage work (<24V)...and propably never meassure any current....the main features for me are: Frequency Measurement and True RMS AC Voltage measurement from 10Hz to 1MHz)Ex. do the specs hold ? Are they for real ?

author: Bored@Work
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 05:12:42 am
content: Quote from: janengelbrecht on September 22, 2014, 10:15:22 pmYes, its reference drifts like a drunken sailor after a long night out.

author: sync
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 10:09:22 am
content: Quote from: janengelbrecht on September 22, 2014, 10:15:22 pmThe AC measurements on the UT-61E are specified from 45Hz~10kHz only. Even expensive DMMs don't go up to 1MHz usually.

author: leppie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 10:55:47 am
content: Quote from: Bored@Work on September 23, 2014, 05:12:42 amMine seems to be OK. Will double check again tonite

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 11:54:16 am
content: Quote from: janengelbrecht on September 22, 2014, 10:15:22 pmWhy not?

author: HiTech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 12:43:30 pm
content: Quote from: janengelbrecht on September 22, 2014, 10:15:22 pmI would suspect accuracy decline caused by aging rate of the electronic components of the Uni-T to be its Achille's heel, esp. resistors & caps. Personally, I don't consider anything from Uni-T to be substantially better than that from Mastech. Those brands are fine for the person with a limited spending budget, where long-term accuracy & quality construction isn't that crucial for their general needs. I have a cheapo Mastech clone (branded a CenTech from Harbor Freight Tools) that I use in my garage for automotive use, testing table lamps, a ceiling fan, or even measuring how bright the afternoon sun is in my eyes. For a mere $27 it's results are satisfactory for those uses.

author: sacherjj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 01:24:26 pm
content: Quote from: janengelbrecht on September 22, 2014, 10:15:22 pmFuses are for current measurement. For voltage measurement, you have a high impedance input, so the current flow will be VERY small and protection isn't needed. It is already there in the form of resistance.For current measurement, the impedance should be as small as possible. Otherwise you get high burden voltage when you insert the meter in series to measure the current. So at this point, you have a very low impedance path. The voltage across the meter in current mode is always going to be meter burden impedance * current. So assume 5 ohms. If you can measure 15A and a fuse blows at 20A. 20*5 = 100V. The fuse will be blow at 100V.At the point that it blows, you will be the highest voltage at the fuse, but it won't be able to carry current across it. Unless you really screw up and have enough voltage to flash across the fuse, then get to melt some other part of the current path. Whatever is the next weak link.

author: MarkPalmer
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 01:59:14 pm
content: Someone I know on another electronics forum uses a quote, “It’s better to know what your test equipment can’t do rather than what it can do.” When you really think about that quote, it is very true. A lot of these low cost manufacturers load their multimeters up with a bunch of whiz-bang functions as a selling point because it costs them next to nothing to add the features to the processing end of the meter. But if you examine what they are really capable of, you often find the multitude of functions are very limited in their ranges, i.e. you aren’t going to get yourself a useful RF voltmeter or a high performance counter in a $50.00 handheld multimeter, so seeing the frequency function probably isn’t anything to get all too excited over.-Mark-

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 04:03:49 pm
content: That's a generalization that doesn't hold much water.Mainstream manufacturers also sell meters will less than stellar features, for a lot more than 50$.To take the AC bandwidth as an example, the TRMS Fluke 233, 179 and 117, Agilent U1242B and U1233A can barely manage 1 or 2 KHz.Whereas a TRMS UNI-T UT71A or a Digitek 8000 can measure voltage at 20KHz with ease and only cost 100$.'It is best to know what your meter can and can't do'.

author: MarkPalmer
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 05:09:57 pm
content: Quote from: Wytnucls on September 23, 2014, 04:03:49 pmCertain aforementioned manufacturers also concentrate more on build quality, component quality and stability, meter protection and user safety rather than loading the meter up with features as the main point of sale. It all depends on what will be the most important virtues to the buyer. That being what features are desired, how long will the meter give accurate and consistent measurements, will the meter be safe in the environments it is used in, can the meter protect itself from accidental overloads, how long does one expect the meter to last, and how much does one want to spend for it?I don’t have any problems with people buying value priced multimeters to fit their needs, and I understand not everyone needs professional grade test equipment. My problem is with people under the impression they are getting the best of everything in the world from a brand X (or T) value priced meter loaded with features, even going so far as to think they got a multimeter equal to or even better than a Fluke at that much lower price because it has some extra features. That is delusional.-Mark-

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 05:27:46 pm
content: Quote from: janengelbrecht on September 22, 2014, 10:15:22 pmi have few Uni-T TM product such as UT71A DMM, UT202 clamp meter and smaller UT12B voltage detector. UT12B is still fine since i guess less moving parts, but both 71A and 202 degraded in usability after just few years (2-3), specifically broken knob electrical contact underneath or maybe broken components making it going like drunken sailor when changing measurement mode or just simply dead. i have to make tear down maintenance for it, very bad since i cant get it to 100% working. i will not recommend this brand since the "durability" is very poor. mine only used indoor, not a tough "real work" outdoor usage.

author: HiTech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 06:38:14 pm
content: Don't be fooled for one minute that Uni-T, Mastech, Extech and the clones are stellar products, despite their marketing of certain seldom practical features, all at an affordable price point. There's merit to the old phrase:You get what you pay for.

author: CosPhi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 07:10:20 pm
content: Quote from: sacherjj on September 23, 2014, 01:24:26 pmIf the fuse goes out or not does not just depend on the current. It is also about the time ... (-> picture 1)And each fuse (and breaker) is rated for a maximum current before the fuse does explode ... usually where a high current is, or a high current is possible there is a lot of energy. (-> picture 2)Don't compare Fluke's 170s meters with a Uni-T. A 170 should not be able to read 10 ... 20 ...100khz voltages / current. In daily industrial work you just would read strange things from noise around. The 170's are IMHO the best meter for every industrial electrician. I think there is no other meter out there like the 170s. It's just a simple rugged meter who don't confuse anyone with thousands of functions (no Agilent, no Brymen, no Hioki, no Gossen, ...)But I would probably not buy a 170 to play around with electronics at home with just voltages <24V. There are better meters out there instead of the 170s.Quote from: HiTech on September 23, 2014, 06:38:14 pmTrueThere is nothing for free in this world, even the death costs your life

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 07:12:56 pm
content: Why are people still crying about the fuses when for all normal hobby work they're adequate?

author: MarkPalmer
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 07:23:29 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on September 23, 2014, 07:12:56 pmThis is probably true for the most part. But when someone posts, unless you actually know who they are, it isn't known if they are a hobbyist, engineer, professional technician, etc. Much of this sort of bottom feeder equipment doesn't come with a label cautioning the user that it is only a toy intended for hobby use.-Mark-

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 07:30:31 pm
content: Quote from: MarkPalmer on September 23, 2014, 07:23:29 pmEngineers and technicians, and electricians, should not be looking at cheap equipment in the first place. If they're not clued up enough to realise these aren't the tools for them, they have bigger problems.

author: gocemk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 07:30:54 pm
content: Ohhh....come on guys!I have had this meter for nearly 2 years now and i use it DAILY on 230V and up to 10 amps current with NO PROBLEMS WHATSOEVER!. I work in the automation industry and i use it alongside my Agilent U1401A multimeter/process calibrator which is rated up to 250V/250mA, so for higher voltages (up to 380V) i almost exclusively use the Uni-T. Does any of the folks here who argue against the meter have any experience with it?! I also have Fluke 83, Fluke 177 and Fluke 115. I agree that the 80 and 170 series Fluke are different beasts, but they do lack some of the features the UT61E has. And i prefer the Uni-T over the Fluke 115.

author: CosPhi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 07:42:07 pm
content: My previous was more like for ... why use a Fluke.I have no problem with people who use Uni-T for low energy electronics.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 07:42:35 pm
content: Quote from: CosPhi on September 23, 2014, 07:42:07 pmNo problem using it for electrics, either.

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 07:58:55 pm
content: I think for someone who doesn't need exceptional accuracy (better than 0.5%), UT61e suits the need well for electronics or household (120V mostly in the USA, some 240V for hi-power equipment like Air Conditioning.) It mostly held to spec and the spec is not bad at all for the price.First group of numbers, how is it 10-12 months after purchase:10 to 12 months after purchase, first number from DMMCheckPLus, 2nd number UT61e reading pre-calibration, 3rd number UT61e post recalibration that day5.0000V measures 4.991V, 4.999V,1.0002mA measures 0.998mA, 1.000mA10.000392KHz measures 10.00KHz20.000874KHz measures 20.00KHz99.99ohm measures 100.15, 100.101.00008K measures 0.9981K, 0.9981K10.0041K measures 9.995K, 9.995K100.005K measures 99.90K, 99.91KSecond group of numbers, a set of new baseline numbers, and compare to 6months laterThe DMMPlus 10/20KHz was my ordering mistake. It was send back to readjusted to 100Hz and 20KHz, new baseline (now with AC) 10 days or so later and then 6 months later.DMM+, UT61e new baseline 11 month after purchase, 6 month after baseline, 9.5 months after baselineDCV 5.0000V=4.999V, 4.997V, 4.999VDCA 1.0004mA=1.000mA,1.010mA1.000mA, 1.000mA[EDIT: added mV below. mV is not in initial baseline.]DC mV (evaluated by using DMMCheckPlus' 1mA connected to DMMCheckPlus' 1kohm+100ohm)4.50mV = -NA-, 4.49mV, 4.48mV49.50mV = -NA-, 49.50mV, 49.46mVFreq1 99.99392Hz=100Hz, 100Hz, 100HzDuty 49.9851%@100Hz=49.9% , 49.9%, 49.9%Freq2 20.000786KHz=20.01KHz, 20.02(jitters 1 to 2)KHz, 20.00/20.01KHzDuty 49.9851%@20KHz=49.6%, 49.6%, 49.8%ACV 4.999Vac=5.034Vac, 5.035Vac, 5.034VacACA 1.000mA=1.011mA, 1.010mA, 1.010mA99.99ohm measures 100.15, 100.16, 100.17 (no REL), 100.11 (REL)1.00008K measures 0.9981K, 0.9982K, 0.9982K10.0041K measures 9.995K, 9.995K, 9.996K100.005K measures 99.91K, 99.91K, 99.91KSo, it held its numbers pretty good after the first year, drifted a little more but nothing outrageous.I think I got my money's worth.RickEDIT: Added numbers for today (9.5 months after baseline) to tell you the drift. Added mV numbers, and corrected 3 typos - one is a mix up of numbers using AmpAC vs AmpDC, the other two are extra zero in frequency, 20.01, not 20.001..

author: MarkPalmer
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 08:00:35 pm
content: I can say no, I neither own nor have I owned any Uni-T products. I do have one Mastech handheld multimeter which compares very closely in price, features, and build quality to the Uni-T brand. I can say yes, the Mastech operates adequately for a meter in its price range. But it is not something I would jump up and down with joy over, defend, or recommend to everyone who deals with electricity or electronics. This is because it is nothing special, just an el-cheapo multimeter that I wouldn’t care one bit or make one ounce of fuss over if it blew out or became inaccurate because I'm smart enough to not have the highest long term expectations from it. The only thing it has are more features than my Fluke 27, and that is mainly because the 27 is much older than it. Everything else about the Mastech meter is eclipsed by the quality of the Fluke.-Mark-

author: gocemk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 08:26:48 pm
content: QuoteI also don't have any long term expectations from it, since it is dirt cheap. But it offers one thing, a GREAT value for the money. Over the last 2 years it paid itself more than 20 times over. Although now i have much more expensive meters, this is still my daily driver. When used with UltraDMM, the data logger is a really nice feature, and i use it quite often. Recently we had some mysterious power failures on some industrial switching power supplies (230AC to 12VDC/5A) when the output would turnoff while mains was still active. I used the UT61E's data logger connected to loads up to 0.5A multiple times for up to 24 hours for different scenarios. It did it's job perfectly.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 08:51:17 pm
content: Quote from: Rick Law on September 23, 2014, 07:58:55 pmAccording to the UT61E manual, page 45, the accuracy specifications is +/- 0.1% + 2 digits. Assuming the DMMcheck+ is accurate at 5.0000, then that implies5.0000 x 0.001 = 0.0055.0000 - 0.005 = 4.9955.0000 + 0.005 = 5.005For the UT61E that implies that a reading between 4.993 to 5.007 would be meet its 0.1% + 2 digit specification.If it read 4.991VDC, then it is out of its specification.

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 08:51:34 pm
content: The UT61E is still one of the best deals in the 50-60$ range.It is not an industrial quality meter by any means, but well suited for the electronics hobbyist on a budget.Minor gripes:1. Drift. Don't trust that last digit too much. It may settle eventually with the aging of the components. Easy to adjust with the help of a good voltage reference.2. No APO (Auto Power Off)3. Fairly high burden voltage4. No screen backlight5. 5A max continuous6. TRMS bandwidth limited to 10KHz7. 250V fuses. Strictly speaking, not legal in Europe anymore, but IMO adequate for occasional CAT II 250V work.8. No temperature measurement.9. No Max/Min.I don't use mine much anymore, but it should last for many years of reliable service, if handled gently and properly.

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 23, 2014, 09:33:41 pm
content: Quote from: retiredcaps on September 23, 2014, 08:51:17 pmAh ha, you caught it too! I did exactly the same calculation that day. I was disappointed. I re-did it after the DMM Checkplus was up to room temperature... Surprise, no change (I thought DMM Checkplus would have been off having set in the ice cold weather outdoor when it first arrived.)Hence my wordingcarefully avoided saying they were in spec. Rather, I said it was not outrageously off. I was careful to say not better than 0.5% rather then their 0.1%+-2 digits in the specs. [edit: added this back which I was going to remove...] So I said "it mostly held to specs"...By the way, it was December, 11months old from day of received in January. I don't recall if the specs saids "day of purchase" or "day of manufacture". Either way, the error was more than I like but not outrageously so.The second set of numbers in late May was 6 months from baseline. I am going to re-edit that post and add new numbers (9.5 months from baseline). That would help the OP decide if the drift is too big for him.[edit: decided to add this line back upon review] The last digit wonders around too much. I hardly use the REL since getting my hand that close would change the last digit by one or two (or more). Overall, it is not a disappointment but instead I am reasonably happy with it. I think I got my money's worth.Rick(Sorry for the messy reedit. I was interrupted and tried to finish. I should have waited.)

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 04:02:43 am
content: Quote from: Monkeh on September 23, 2014, 07:12:56 pmFor me at least, it's when a hobbyist obtains the confidence to probe mains circuits using their existing meter/s that aren't suitable for it, and don't realize it.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 11:58:00 am
content: Quote from: nanofrog on September 24, 2014, 04:02:43 amAnd this meter is suitable. A normal domestic supply is not an issue for this meter.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 01:17:35 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on September 24, 2014, 11:58:00 amDomestic US, sure.But what about the UK or EU for larger circuits, such as an electric range (oven + cooktop), ... sorts of things (i.e. 415V on 2NAC or 3NAC)?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 01:24:53 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on September 24, 2014, 01:17:35 pmCouldn't care less about the US.QuoteThe UK doesn't have multiple phases in domestic properties, as a rule. EU, varies, and people need to learn to think for themselves. Still shouldn't be a major issue with this meter. Even with multiple phases, domestic supplies have limited PSCC.There's no reason to go probing anything except voltage on an oven circuit anyway. You can't handle the current with this meter. (three-phase domestic ovens are typically single-phase in disguise)

author: Wytnucls
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 01:57:15 pm
content: 250V is still fine.I had some trouble rupturing an FF 250V glass fuse, causing a short across the 250V house wall plug, as the circuit breaker on the electrical panel would pop first. When it did go eventually, it was more with a whimper than a loud bang, with the glass enclosure remaining intact.Large voltage or current transients are unlikely, if the house electrical wiring conforms to your local building regulations.Try the experiment yourself, if you have spare DMM fuses, while standing at a safe distance.Of course, working on appliances or motors capable of generating higher voltages should be done with proper CAT III equipment.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 02:20:53 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on September 24, 2014, 01:24:53 pmI get that people need to think about what they're doing, but even properly trained and experienced personnel have accidents/screw up. Someone still learning will be more prone to making such mistakes, so there's a greater potential for injury or worse ("learn the hard way" has it's merits, particularly when other methods don't sink in, but not so much if it kills them in the process).I was only thinking in terms of voltages BTW (i.e. 380/400/415V for a circuit or two). Appears >250V would be seen in Germany at least (3ph range circuit).

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 03:07:54 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on September 24, 2014, 02:20:53 pmI would not be concerned measuring 415V on a protected circuit with this meter.

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 06:40:29 pm
content: Quote from: janengelbrecht on September 22, 2014, 10:15:22 pmWe have been talking mostly about accuracy but three other issues I forgot to bring up:(1) The probe sockets are not as firm as I like. It causes jitters in reading.We all know that probes have resistance. When I short the ends of the probe, it usually settles at around 0.06ohms. But even with the plug firmly inserted into the DMM's socket, when Iturn the probe's plug like a dial, the settled resistance can changefrom 0.03ohm to 0.14ohms (after settling). So the contact between the plug and the socket is not as firm as I like - at some angles, it could have more resistance than other angles. The design has a visible gap in the socket to provide a "spring" effect - a solid cylinder will have fix diameter without flexibility. The spring-effect presses the plug firmly against the socket wall. But it is so minor I was not bothered enough to try to use some pliers to squeeze the socket narrower to make it more firm. (Thus, it could be optical illusion that there is a gap... never tried, so don't know for sure.)(2) In auto-range, the reading is wildduring switching.Normally it will not cause a problem when you are reading it by eye as you see it still changing. But when you are data-logging, you may forget! You may see data points going from (for example) 1.9V, 2.1V, 20V, 2.4V... You will not know if that 20V reading is real or the auto-range change is yet settled as it switch from 2.2V range to 22V range.(3) The stock PC end of the data logger software is picky and not that greatUT61e's data cable is RS232 with a DB9 connector. So you need an RS232-USB adaptor for USB unless your PC has "real DB9 RS232." There are many early comments/posts about UT61e's RS232 interface. Many cheaper USB-RS232 adaptors "wont work."I put "wont work" in quote becauseat least in my case, I narrowed down the issue to the stock software but not the adapter. The stock software is not bad but it will open the RS232 port with parity. Not all cheap USB-RS232 connectors supports parity. Most forum member here recommend FTDI converter and FTDI is indeed problem free with the stock software.The stock software also does not log-to-disk. Between adapter problems, auto-ranging, and log-to-disk, I ended up writing my own Java logger. My loggeropens without parity and skips one reading when it did a range-change(part of the data is range-in-use for this datapoint, so you know it changed if it is different than last time).Absent parity, I can use my other cheap USB-RS232 adaptorand log UT61E data with other Arduino data directly to disk in the same log. (Custom made for my needs but with unpolished front end, so I have not offered it up for sharing.)FYI: The UT61E stock software opens with 19200,7,1,E. You can use something like Windows HyperTerminal and connect to the UT61E at 19200,7,1,E or 19200,7,1,N (N for no parity). Without parity, my two other cheapo USB-RS232 connectors work with the UT61E problem free.So, apart from it being merely "mostly in-spec" instead of unqualified/totally "in-spec" those are the other three issues I can recall.Hope this helps...Rick

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 08:53:08 pm
content: Quote from: Rick Law on September 24, 2014, 06:40:29 pmI resolved this by wrapping some kapton tape around the jacks, to effectively decrease the size of the hole in the case. Much firmer, more repeatable contact.Don't use tape with nasty gummy adhesives like insulating tape.

author: gocemk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 09:20:21 pm
content: Quote from: nanofrog on September 24, 2014, 02:20:53 pmHave you somehow missed my earlier post?I'm measuring voltages from 220 to 380VAC almost on a daily basis with this multimeter. NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS, or a blown fuse, or whatever.......

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 24, 2014, 10:10:04 pm
content: Please, do not equate your lack of problems as there are no problems. I can assert that I have never died in a car accident. I can't conclude from this that nobody has a chance of dying in a car accident. Safety standards have been developed for a reason, people have been injured and killed.Having said that, I wouldn't be concerned using a UT61E for household electrical work. For anything more dangerous, no. The GS version, yes.

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 12:16:15 am
content: While on this topic...In USA, I am under the impression that house hold is 240V max for heavy appliance - but I recall an AC repair guy insisting that some household can be 480V. (This AC repair guy that I don't trust, but don't want to tell a long story.)Is 480V for normal houses for real? Love to here from someone who can tell me for sure.Thanks

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 02:08:15 am
content: Quote from: Rick Law on September 25, 2014, 12:16:15 amIn North America, even though we are on 120V AC, if you are working on the SMPS hot side, the VDC can be as high as 400VDC if PFC circuitry is involved.When repairing things, sometimes I need to measure the hotside and the highest I have encountered is 170VDC. I haven't personally fixed or taken anything apart, yet, with a PFC circuit as I tend to repair old stuff (people toss aside as non working aka garbage).

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 02:44:53 am
content: Quote from: retiredcaps on September 25, 2014, 02:08:15 amSorry, poorly worded question on my part.I recently changed my Heat/Cool system's blower fan. I was told by another contractor a couple of year back that I could encounter 480V poking particularly around the Air Conditioning. My blower fan replacement was a success. But I am trying to determine if that earlier contractor was trying to scare in into not doing anything at all with the HVAC and leave everything to him, or would I really run into 480V somewhere when Ithinkthe most coming in is 240V used by the cloth dryer.ThanksRick

author: gocemk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 12:42:31 pm
content: Quote from: Lightages on September 24, 2014, 10:10:04 pmYes, and the UT61E is rated CAT IV 600V and CATIII 1000V. So, 240-380V should be no problem at all. And it isn't. I really can't understand what's the problem here, are there any reports on someone actually being shocked while measuring mains with the UT61E??? Or a destroyed meter??? In a previous thread i mentioned that i have tested this meter in resistance mode pligged in 240VAC mains. The input protection worked and nothing else happened, the meter is still working fine to this day.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 01:20:16 pm
content: Quote from: gocemk on September 25, 2014, 12:42:31 pmThose ratings are lies.

author: gocemk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 01:39:31 pm
content: Quote from: Monkeh on September 25, 2014, 01:20:16 pmYes, the updated version is rated CATII 600V, CATIII 300V. Even with this ratings it should be fine for household electric (240-380VAC).

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 01:40:24 pm
content: Quote from: gocemk on September 25, 2014, 01:39:31 pmAnd everyone essentially agrees with this..

author: gocemk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 01:47:39 pm
content: QuoteJudging by some of the comments posted earlier, no. Advising someone to use this meter only for 'hobby' and voltages up to 24VDC is simply exaggeration, or plain ignorance.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 01:51:32 pm
content: Quote from: gocemk on September 25, 2014, 01:47:39 pmI haven't seen anyone say you should only use it for ELV, only that it is certainly suitable and all the concerns about safety and build quality are pretty much irrelevant at that level.As for hobby use.. it is foolish to use a low end multimeter like this professionally in an industrial setting when you can clearly afford more appropriate hardware.

author: gocemk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 02:07:25 pm
content: I agree. But my point was not to brag about my test equipment, i just wanted to show/tell that this meter can hadle quite well even in an industrial environment. Having said that i would recommend this meter to anyone looking for a meter that falls into this price tangeSent from my HTC Desire HD With Beats Audio using Tapatalk

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2014, 06:42:21 pm
content: Quote from: Rick Law on September 25, 2014, 12:16:15 amNo. You might see 377V 3 phase in someone's fancy woodshop.

author: Gromitt
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2014, 12:54:19 pm
content: Quote from: Rick Law on September 25, 2014, 12:16:15 amDo you mean in the US?I live in Sweden and I have 400V 3ph in my apartment, for the cooker/stove/kitchen-range (whatever it's called)./stefan

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2014, 08:14:05 pm
content: Quote from: Gromitt on September 26, 2014, 12:54:19 pmYeah, I mean the USA. I was told around the AirConditioner I may find 480V (in a typical 1980-90 townhouse). I think he is full of it, but I don't know for sure. I think may be some HVAC guy here in the USA may know for sure. Finally, I got an answer from a post yesterday...Thanks, eDavid...Quote from: edavid on September 25, 2014, 06:42:21 pm

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2014, 07:24:41 am
content: You will find between 400 and 600VAC across the capacitor in a PSC motor, much more than the mains voltage.

author: Terabyte2007
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2014, 12:03:59 pm
content: During a couple of extreme over-voltage tests, I pushed the UT-61E to 1200 VDC with no issue, the unit was reasonably accurate. These were controlled tests in a controlled environment with a current limited HV source. In the name of experimental science, I pushed the Mastech MS8229 to 1800 VDC with no failure, although the displayed value was radically unstable it survived the test and was still in spec. I did not want to take the UT-61E to that extreme since I really like the meter!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2014, 01:06:28 pm
content: I used a transistor tester that can do 1200V, bought from Frankie ( Ilovelectronics) which looks like a plastic lunchbox when not in use. Used to test transistors, diodes and most 3 pin regulators.

author: Terabyte2007
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2014, 01:09:28 pm
content: Quote from: 3roomlab onTodayat 11:00:13 PM

author: Terabyte2007
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2014, 01:13:19 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on September 27, 2014, 01:06:28 pmCan you set the voltage to what you need or want?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2014, 01:26:00 pm
content: Not really, it has 1200V and 200V ranges, and tests regulators using the internal battery voltage. Duoyi DY294, usabe as a transistor tester to check breakdown voltage, gain and saturation voltage over a few current ranges.

author: Terabyte2007
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2014, 01:31:10 pm
content: Cool, I found it for around 38 US at Tester Depot. May have to look into this.