favorite wire to board connectors for power? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 19, 2018, 06:08:08 pm
content: I'm wondering what everyone's favorite wire to board connectors are for carrying power/high current (>= 1A) for their hobby projects. Typical uses would be:- power from a mains inlet to PCB- connections to off-board power transistors- connections to front panel power jacksEvery solution I've looked at has it's pros and cons:- crimp pin connectors (e.g. Molex KK) are a pain to make and require special tooling- IDC connectors (e.g. MTA-100) are a lot easier to assemble but may not be reliable (perhaps a little solder would fix that?)- screw terminal blocks are inexpensive -- are they reliable for long term use?- pluggable screw terminal blocks (i.e. Phoenix contact connectors) are more convenient, and also more pricey- HT396 pluggable screw terminal blocks are cheap - anyone have experience with them? The 0.156" pitch, however, is not protoboard friendly.What do you like to use?

author: kony
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2018, 02:06:30 pm
content: Molex Minifit for power, megafit for when shit gets serious, microfit for more modest specs. Minimatch for data. Upside is all are prooven for automotive uses, downside the need for crimp tools.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2018, 06:34:38 pm
content: For inside of a chassis I prefer screw terminal blocks or soldering the wires directly. Various plug-in connectors are acceptable in a production environment.

author: KrudyZ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2018, 06:43:36 pm
content: Crimp connections are very reliable if they are done with the correct tool.A good alternative to buying the crimp tool is to buy pre-crimped wires.Digi-Key has these available for quite a few connectors, which is the way to go if you only need a few.https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cable-assemblies/jumper-wires-pre-crimped-leads/453?k=crimped%20wireYou are limited to the cable lengths they offer, but it's always easier to extend a wire with a solder connection and heat shrink tubing than to try crimping with pliers.Rudy

author: Neomys Sapiens
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2018, 09:33:11 pm
content: There are some nice alternatives to direct soldering of wires to board, such as turret or hook terminals.And then there are PCB-mounted tongue terminals in 2.8, 4.8 and 6.3mm size. Even allowing for staggered arrangements and multiple connections. Easyly available test aids and wiring materials can be used with them as well as connectors for multi-wire applications.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2018, 02:26:04 am
content: I've been known to do crimp terminals (e.g., Molex KK, SL) just with needle nose pliers. I don't trust the mechanical result in the least -- I always solder the wire in (using as little solder and time as necessary to wet the wire). Suboptimal, tedious, but useful when you don't have a crimp tool handy.For higher current connections (up to 10A or so), I tend to go for pluggable terminal blocks, e.g. OSTOQ055450 and OSTTJ055153 (or any other source, Phoenix and Weidmuller being the bigger ones).Also, SPOX series, very old\\\classic; and uh, I forget what other ones are similar but there's more than a few.Have seen MTA going flakey, and have migrated them to more reliable connectors too.Tim

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2018, 02:22:50 pm
content: Molex Mini-Fit is probably my go-to for general purpose, reasonably high power connections.I've used the Molex "Service-grade" crimp tool with good results. Little bit of a learning curve to get right, but pretty easy past that. However, trying to use the same crimp tool to get reliable crimps on Micro-fit terminals, completely different story. Huge pain in the ass.https://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0638111000_APPLICATION_TOOLIN.xml&channel=Products

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2018, 07:38:57 pm
content: For power I always use pluggable terminal blocks. There are many brands (and price levels) to choose from. Camden makes decent ones. Also don't forget to use a ferrule when claming stranded wire under a screw. Soldering wires directly into a board is a very bad idea because wires can break very easy.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2018, 07:45:58 pm
content: QuoteJust in case this isn't a typo:IMO, you should only use mains connectors for mains. The figure 8 or the 3 prong IEC stuff. Don't use any other connector for mains, despite how little current you are drawing.Having any non mains-certified connector on the end of a mains power cord is a hazard to begin with, even for home-gamer stuff. Nevermind how safely you handle/enclose the splice job. If you don't want to use a proper mains connector, then I would suggest the only reasonable alternative is permanently attached and properly strain-relieved power cord.PCB-to-PCB interconnects within the same enclosure, that's different. But "mains inlet" to PCB is not really a good thing to mess around with, because when it is disconnected from the PCB, you have mains on a connector which is not obviously mains by visual reference, let alone the safety of the connector design.