Programmable Light Switches Advice Needed - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: edy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2017, 09:48:01 pm
content: I have the need to install some programmable light switches to control kitchen or room lights. I have only used the small timers that you plug lamps into in the wall outlet such as the following:I'm going to need something like these:I'm not sure where to start. I know there are some that you program in the actual light switch. There is some system that lets you do everything by remote using a hub and some kind of WiFi or internet of things device and you can control your lights and program everything from a phone or app. There is also the issue of my light switch in the kitchen having 2-switches on the panel and how I'm supposed to install 2 and get a proper face-plate for it.QUESTION: "Dumb" or "smart" ? Which way do I go?MY NEEDS:For now, the kitchen (2 switches on same faceplate) and maybe the family room (1 switch) needs to be able to be programmed to turn on and off perhaps 2 or 3 intervals per day. Nothing complicated. Usually in the morning if it is still dark outside, so it turns on before we get up in the morning from about 6-9am. Then in the evening when the light starts to dim it should also automatically turn on again and stay on until we go to bed (from about 5pm to 2am). One more programmable interval say for the middle of the day (1-2pm) would be nice too. Of course, when I don't need the programmed "auto" features I should be able to just set the switch to "manual mode" and let me just use it like an ordinary switch without it forgetting the programs.CONCERNS:I know the "IoT" lights are all the rage now, but I am worried about needing to spend the extra money for the hub, having it hooked up to internet, and then being reliant on some smartphone app. I don't want to be stuck not having the software or phone or compatibility in a few years. I don't need to program it from remote. I think a simple one that I set on the actual switch without any connectivity to the outside world would be enough. Yes I know it would be a bit of extra work to program each switch individually but I don't care. I'd rather have something that I am not going to be "stuck" in some particular smart ecosystem.The other issue is can I get options for 1-switch and 2-switch panels and even 3-switch which have appropriate face-plates. Do most systems allow this (even "dumb" ones, not just the "smart" switches).So not having any experience with this, can anyone give me some advice as to what to look for and what problems I may run into? Thanks as always and sorry for the newbie question here.

author: PointyOintment
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2017, 03:48:05 am
content: We have three of those switches (from Aube) in my house, which we mainly use to deter burglars while out of town. I also experimented with using one in my bedroom as a complement to my alarm clock. I have considered IoTizing it but haven't gotten around to it.They work fine. They support up to seven programs. Each program has an on time and an off time, and can be set for any single day of the week or all days. You can put multiple programs on one day or multiple programs on all days if you want. Switching between auto mode and manual mode is accomplished by long-pressing the on/off button. Programs are not forgotten, and can be reprogrammed, while the switch is in manual mode. You can still use the on/off button to control the light in auto mode. The model we have is over 10 years old now—newer ones may have better features.Quote from: edy on March 28, 2017, 09:48:01 pmI don't understand. Why is something likethisnot suitable?

author: edy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2017, 08:56:36 pm
content: Thanks, I didn't realize that cover plates have basically 2 standard sizes... the small holes and the large holes, and combinations of different ones like here:I was under the impression that the programmable timers have various proprietary sizes that would make using a standard plate difficult or impossible. Now that I know it gives me some relief.So I'm off to buy a programmable switch but will forego getting a "Smart" one for now. Now to choose between a 7-day and a 24-hour one. Not sure which one I would like better.

author: edy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2017, 08:56:37 pm
content: Ok, I ended up buying 2 timers and I thought I could get them installed in the same receptacle as shown in the attached photos.It turns out, I had 2 more travellers wired in to this box which severely limited the space available.Firstly, the fuse box in the basement did not have this circuit marked. It turned out there was one live line heading to this switch (for the 2 kitchen lights) and then a couple of more travellers that spliced in to this live line which powered the living room lights and plugs and basement switch/light.So in the box I had 1 LIVE line heading to the fuse box (black/white/copper).2 lines that were not live (black/white/copper), but spliced in to the 1 LIVE line and used to power the rest of the 1st floor.Those 3 lines had all the blacks joined, all the whites joined and all the copper connected to the box ground.As for the actual kitchen light, one of the live blacks (spliced in to the LIVE) also went into one end of each of the switches, and they ran a 4-line cable (black/red/white/copper) up to the kitchen ceiling which formed the loop to the other end of the switch. The black of this 4-line cable went to the other end of one switch, the red went to the other end of the other switch (to control each light separately) and the white of course spliced into all the other white neutrals common to both travellers and the live line (the one connected to the fuse box), and the ground attached to the copper ground.Due to the lack of space in the box, I had to make the timer control BOTH of the kitchen lights, so I combined both black/red of the 4-line to the timer. The other switch now does nothing. The timer can handle 1800 W max and my kitchen lights are 35W CFL's so even both combined are well under.As far as what I discovered upon entering this switch... I wonder if this is a normal way of wiring things. There was absolutely no space in this box, I barely managed to fit the timer, let alone all the connections which the electrician decided to use this area for to connect up all the travellers to the other plugs/lights on the first floor. Plus the fact that none of it was labelled, neither the fuse box, nor the light switch itself (see the photos). I had to figure it out using a multimeter.[EDIT: Sorry I may have some of the terms wrong... not "travelers", I think I am using this incorrectly. It is just circuits that hook in via parallel connection and just happen to use the box that also has the wiring for the lights]