Desk/Lab lighting tips? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheBorg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2013, 04:57:35 am
content: I've decided to ramp up my desk/lab area, and one of the things I really need more of is light. Normal lights aren't cutting it for soldering 0402's and I'm sick of putting flashlights in 3rd hands- time for something else.I've seen a few people here with swing lamps- are these any good for lighting? I suppose if I was going to get one I would get a LED version, but I could just solder a bunch of 5mm leds together and make that into a lamp. So what are you using for lighting and how is it working for you?

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2013, 05:15:54 am
content: I've been working on lighting over my workbench and I am pretty happy with an articulated arm lamp with a pair of 18" fluorescent tubes with Natural/Daylight color temperature I think it was 5000K. The light is somewhat bluish but the color sharpens up the details for me. With it on the arm it can be suspended about 36 inches above the desktop or bring it down closer if I need more light. Because it's on an arm, it can be adjusted to reduce glare in most circumstances.For close up work I have a magnifier with a fluorescent ring lamp about the same color temp.I did have a warmer/redder "general office use" lamps that weren't good for close-up work.I would like a set of 6500K lamps but the local chain stores don't carry them in stock.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2013, 05:46:39 am
content: Primarily re-tasking what I had on hand already (have yet to purchase lamps specifically for the lab), so I have fluorescents for overall lighting (daylight), and a swing arm using an LED flood light (5k/daylight). Magnification would be nice, but what I have works well enough.LED in the swing arm made quite an improvement vs. the incandescent bulbs I tried (also had on hand) for all of ~$33USD.

author: andtfoot
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 23, 2013, 06:57:30 am
content: I have found having two lamps (one on each side of my desk) has improved things a lot for me. Obviously there is more light, but also having the two angles means you don't get as many shadows.My overhead lighting is pretty poor, so maybe shadows are less of an issue if you have decent overheads.

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2013, 08:05:44 pm
content: andtfoot is right. Do pay attention to shadows.And I hate those "warm white". They should call it Ripe Mango color light. Awful. Purple and Brown (and other color-pairs) look the same. Trying to read resistor code is hopeless under those light.I have the 5000K "natural light". I would prefer 6000-6500K - much closer to real white.

author: Six_Shooter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2013, 09:13:33 pm
content: Quote from: Rory on November 23, 2013, 05:15:54 amThis is what I use, at this point it's the only real lighting I have over my desk. I do have a plan to add some lighting above my desk along with some shelving for more equipment and storage of some often used components.

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 03:41:50 pm
content: I bought some veryinexpensive florescent light fixturesfrom a local big box DIY shop (Menards; it's like Home Depot or Lowe's) and put someinexpensive 48" 32W T8 bulbsin them. i was lucky in that they came with electronic ballasts already. Spent maybe $40 for two fixtures and 4 bulbs. An amazing amount of light shines from those things, and they're 4ft long so shadows are not a concern.I was able to hang them from the exposed joists with some C-clamps, but if I didn't have a convenient place to hang them from, I would have built a small wooden frame to support them.I've just moved and I'll be hanging them from the ceiling in the garage today.Lamps are good, articulated lamps are good, giant whopping florescent light fixtures are excellent, and I can put higher wattage lamps in these fixtures I have if I ever need more light.

author: DL8RI
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 04:09:29 pm
content: I have a "IKEA Broder" shelf above the Desk (Dave has the same, but with wooden boards).I mounted two big "Kitchen-lights" (with T5 or T8, can't remember it...) under the first board, it is hard to get it on camera, but it's bright enough for everything and with the two extra Lamps I have nearly no shadowing on the Desk and that is important. Of what use is the best lamp if you have shadows?http://abload.de/image.php?img=werkstatt_06hbpnk.jpg

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 10:14:59 pm
content: Over my bench, I have a 4 foot, 4 bulb T8 fixture with daylight deluxe bulbs. I also have a 5 diopter lighted swing arm magnifier for extra magnification/lighting.Tom, NW0LF

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 10:49:39 pm
content: I am using an old 'classic' Dazor lamphttp://www.dazor.com/2&3_Tube_Fluorescents.htmlThey used to be popular and still gives plenty of light.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 03:05:12 am
content: I looked at LED T8 tubes that would fit my light fixture. The problem is that they are typically around 1900 Lumens or less. My bulbs in the fixture now are rated at 3150 Lumens. That and the cost difference, as Dave would say, fail! waa waa waa waaaaaaaaa! I could scrimp and save to replace them if the Lumens rating were a lot closer.Tom, NW0LF

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 10:49:08 am
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on November 26, 2013, 03:05:12 amIt is closer if you have non-deal reflective troffs, as I measured in a recent video. My lab is now entirely LED lit.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2013, 11:23:20 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on November 26, 2013, 10:28:23 amIs that why it has the cut out area in the front, so you don't bang your knuckles on it when.....

author: TheBorg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2013, 09:50:31 pm
content: Well, desk nomenclature aside, I think I've gained a lot from this topic. I'll definitely look into swing/articulated lamps, as they seem to be the general choice here, and fluorescent/LED seems to be the way to go. I've survived this long using a desk lamp O0I might get this swing lamp at HFT if they have it, just for starters, and probably use it as a mount for a DIY fume extractor also.http://www.harborfreight.com/fluorescent-magnifying-lamp-60643.htmlThanks for the insights!Edit: Turns out, my dad has an extra 2 lamp T8 shop light. Let the soldering begin!

author: Dawn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2013, 12:05:32 am
content: This is something that I too just had to tackle. I've sort of emulated a modular bench that I'm used to working on professionally with a 6' piece of kitchen countertop that sells for the basic white for $40 and built a frame out of furring strips with the verticals 16" apart at the wall studs and covered it with high quality pegboard. On the 16" widths where the wall studs are, I put up 47.5" long track shelving strips with double slots for adjustable shelves. The bench light is a one hung low Luxo ringlite knockoff clamped to the bench and I put 24" long shelf brackets at the very top and mounted a flourescent fixture at the very ends with a shelf on top. That sort of forms an identical modular workbench "light canopy" that is usualy suspended with arms and adjustable. You want it to "look" over the shelves and shine down on the workspace. I also put a small fixture under the first shelf that's about 17" above the work surface between the 16" brackets of the first shelf bottom. In most cases, the ringlite and the small overhead provides enough fill for most projects if I'm just working on the bench. The overhead "canopy" is often needed for working with the test equipment on the shelf or if I need addtional room light. I never knew Ikea made those desks. That's near identical to a commercial modular workbench in form factor. Don't know how they compare in durability although a good 72" x 30" workbench with a single riser and power strip is going to cost around a grand in USD if it's a quality build. Most will adjust to either 30" desk or 25" waist level height. Light options are usually a pair of arms that suspend a flourescent fixture about 45 to 48" above the benchtop. Problem is for those who wear glasses, that arrangement can wash out the glasses and make it near impossible to see what you're doing at the wrong angle.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 02, 2013, 02:00:28 pm
content: I have a low ceiling in my office/work area. My fixture is suspended by chains from the ceiling at a height of 35" from the work bench. I wear glasses and have no issues with the placement of the light. Nothing gets washed out. Sometimes the light is a bit inadequate, so I will use my swing arm mounted lighted magnifier to get the extra light I need. I have to be careful with the magnifier position or I will get glare, but there is no problems with just the overhead fixture.Tom, NW0LF

author: Dawn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2013, 05:59:23 pm
content: Tom, that comment was made actually from a similar experience. The first place I worked for moved from a dingy hole to a brand spanking new facility that the emphasis was placed on a state of art shop and an installation bay that could accomodate 2 city busses with plenty of room.The shop was professionally installed by an arrangement with the manufacturer and included the modular style desk/bench that became popular during the mid 70's. The lighting above the benches was a chain suspended fixture using a large U tube flourescent I think an the 208v circuit also conventional flourescents down the center of the shop. Unlike our old place, this was brightly lit rather then esentially working under bench illumination under the handbuilt wood risers and 2x4 framed workbenches with a particle board surface overlaid with thin plywood. This was an all catalog state of art shop. First problem was the suspended panels couldn't be shut off without the entire shop. Those of us that wore glasses at normal bench positon, our specs went white the moment you turned your head down on the bench. Impossible to work under. The fix was these frame and arm extentions added to the stations like I described. The fixture sort of curved back on arms about parallel with the front edge of the bench and then allowed for the angle of the fixture that had two tubes in it to be angled as well as the arms slid in a ways about to the riser. Benchtops then were 34" deep instead of the current 25-30" and the riser was about 17" above the rear of the bench with about the same depth suported by end panels and upper frame that was full of paired outlets. Very nicely made and heavy benches that you probably wouldn't see today in build. If I had to venture a guess, the new arms that mounted on the rear were about 14-18" and then had braced angles with another parallel arms to about the front of the desk with another braced angle that had a set of knobs on both sides. That allowed for the light fixture to cant and the overhead arms to telescope a bit inward. Once that got set right, all of us 4 eyes had no further problems. That arrangement is still used in many of the current designs for shop and production.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 02, 2013, 09:30:25 pm
content: Dawn, you actually had to cant the fixture so there was no glare? That is interesting. I built my workbench 34" deep as the 24" I had originally wasn't deep enough after I added 12" shelves. I have my light fixture's front edge even with the edge of the desk. Like I said, no glare. I tried mounting further in over the work area but I found, when I was working on our specialty printers, that the light wasn't enough unless I removed the covers. Once I moved the light to the edge of the desk, the problem went away. The Ikea stuff, is nice, but expensive. My bench cost me about $125-$130 to build and I have 34" by 8' long with 3-8' adjustable shelves and a base shelf under the work top. It is all free standing so it is movable though heavy with the 2X4 frame and 3/4 worktop. That is the great thing about DIY. You build it to your own personal specs and if something doesn't work, you can easily change it until it does.Tom, NW0LF

author: Dawn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2013, 01:09:13 pm
content: Tom, I was referring to that bench system back then where releasing two knobs on the sides of where the light fixture was suspendeded allowed a tilting and some degree of inward/outward telescoping. That slight angle to the light was found empirically by sitting at the station in work position and having someone adjust the light to the sweet spot. You've apparently did that to a degree by moving the light further out over the workspace. In these cases, the lightsource is a smaller fixure instead of a huge panel with a diffuser suspended over you. It's more of a point light source then an flood source. If you look at stations on production line floors, you'll often see the light slightly tilted inward rather then straight down and further behind the shelves, but not behind the glasses or the heads of the individuals. Even in my setup, the light source is slighly angled. Not by design, but by the bottom angle of the brackets, but in the other direction. It's also not a very strong source as it's only a 48" GE home depot fixture. I mentioned that I still rely on a much smaller light under the first shelf between two of the brackets and often use only that one along with the ring light since it's only me in the room. The overhead light is tied to the main light switch that also turns on an opposite CFL wall light/scone. I don't have any ceiling lighting in that room. I should also mention that I have an MR-11 halogen spot with a clamp on the lowest riser/shelf that has a gooseneck and one of those inexpensive, little ringlights with the magnifying glass that some of the hot air station companies package along with their stations. Mine's from X-tronic and came with my board preheater base. Nice little light, but appears to be disposable as nobody I know of sells a replacement ringlight and it's soldered in my unit.This is all in flux Tom. If I can find a better option to suspend a flourescent light source that's a full 72" and more light to add to the room, I'm going to replace it. This is just making due with home center available components for little cost, but attempting to emulate a modular station on the cheap.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 03, 2013, 05:11:27 pm
content: Actually, my fixture is 48" with 4 T-8 bulbs. I find that they give a better light than the T-12 fixtures. I have it suspended over the work area in the middle of the bench and don't worry about the lower light concentration at the ends. I like the idea of a tilting fixture with locking knobs to hold it in position. You have given me something to think about. There are times I would like to get the light closer to my work and re-position it as needed. I'm going to have a chat with an engineer friend of mine and see if we can dedicate a few brain cells between us to come up with an inexpensive fixture to do the same thing you talk about. I also will probably look at places like Global Industries, that sell electronics workbenches, and see if they can provide inspiration. Hmmmm, I already have something Rube Goldberg-esque in mind. Now I have to figure out how to simplify it.Tom, NW0LF

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2013, 06:45:58 pm
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on December 03, 2013, 05:11:27 pmBen Krasnow did a video on relighting his shop. He talks a bit about T5 vs. T8, specifically why T8 & T5 appear to be so much brighter than T12s. T12s are just silly; I'm pretty sure the bulbs or fixtures aren't made anymore.edit:

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 03, 2013, 10:39:01 pm
content: T-12 fixtures and bulbs are still available in at least Home Depot, I believe in sizes from 18" to 8'. I see people by them because of the cheap cost. I opted out of the T-5 as they are a high output light and give off a lot of heat. For me, the T-8 was a compromise. Brighter than the T-12 but not as hot as the T-5. I use 2 dual bulb 4' fixtures over my L shaped desk and a 4' 4 bulb fixture over my workbench. All the fixtures use the Phillips daylight deluxe 5000 K bulbs and I am very happy with the setup I have. My fixtures also don't have diffusers on them. I use the bare lights themselves. I do agree with everything Ben says. The cost really isn't so much an issue, except in the case of the LEDs. According to Dave's earlier post, he upgraded the EEVblog lab to all LEDs. The cost for me, to get what I want in terms of lighting is something I simply can't afford at this time. I work from home, so the purchase of the fixtures and bulbs becomes a non reimbursable business expense that is written off my taxes and I get a portion of my utility bill written off as well.Tom, NW0LF

author: AndersAnd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2013, 10:47:33 pm
content: I can recommend Ikea JANSJÖ flexible led work lamps.With flexible goose necks. Very nice and very cheap series of LED spotlights:http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/categories/series/18294/

author: Dawn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2013, 01:40:03 am
content: Interesting video. I'm not an electrician and wasn't aware of the electronic ballasting and the newer T5 tubes. Turns out the 48" fixture that I bought is a T5 inside and mentions no hum on the box, so I assume it's electronic. I'm not happy with the arrangement as is primarly for room lighting which is less then 8' x 10' along with a seperate wall mounted CFL on the other side. A drop ceiling isn't in my budget and I'm using an old, unrestored utility room of the house.I looked through an older copy of Contact East's calalog which is now Jensen. They used to be a lot more plant/production oriented before the merger and have many different manufacturers from about 12 years ago. Without exception, every station, from every manufacturer they show uses either a 48" or 72" fixture with two T8 bulbs inside. That's a lot more light then the one I purchased with a single bulb.I never thought of drilling a hole in the sides of 24" shelf brackets once I found the right spot and then run a bolt through into the fixture sides and have the fixture between them. That would allow for a swiveling. Or maybe taking a look at commercial assemblies from some of these companies that still exist and see what their arm/light combinations are. While they won't fit the dual track I have, they can be mounted on the shelf arms which are available from 6"-24" lengths. The next smallest in the series: 21.5", 16", 14.5",11.75",8" for a variety of shelf sizes. The lighting is once set and forget, so a permanent option might be just as good.Regarding my 25" deep surface. That number is deceptive now. I'm used to working on 30 and 34" depths, but equipment along the rear taking up valuable bench space. That's less of a factor now with nothing across the rear is deeper in thickness besides my Rigol scope. The service monitor has been moved to the very corner with one of those wire shelves at 30" high supporting the rear off the side of the bench and the 40A power supply has a remote head that the unit itself sits on the lower rung of that shelf. I also have a large scope cart for spectrum analyzer keeping it off the bench. I've tried flopping the monitor and spectrum analyzer around and the monitor works better on the bench with it's tail supported off the side. I'm rethinking the 16" shelving in favor of 12" deep shelves. Most of what I have now will fit on a 12" except my Kiethely counter which is 16". I can set that on top of the service monitor. My older equipment such as the analog scope which is a HP1707 can stay on the old bench if needed along with some older equipment that I've either replaced with smaller or don't use much anymore, but still need to have around. This bench is more an upgrade and the entire right side is devoted to rework. I have to make the best of the space I have as I barely have 5 feet to work in and that's hampered by two carts and maybe even a roll around,upright bin holder soon.

author: Dawn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2013, 08:03:13 am
content: Check out this .pdf on bench components for the Arlink stations.Plenty of ideas in all the below.http://www.listaintl.com/sites/default/files/product-literature/pdf/arlink_08_cat.pdfAlso take a look at IAC/Bevcohttp://www.iacindustries.com/Their line has expanded to pedastal/track systems, but are one of the old guard 4 foot bench with side columns and a single riser shelf above them.www.1proline.comSite is offline when I checked, but the cached image still works.http://www.pbasics.com/Track/frame benches.

author: Dave Turner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2013, 05:21:57 pm
content: I'd suggest also having a small powerful highly directional light, even if just a torch available. This helps to pick out details obscured by lighting that is too flat.

author: Dawn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2013, 05:27:56 pm
content: If you read the text, that was the reason for the halogen MR-11 spots on gooseneck fixtures clamped to the bottom of the first riser. Agreed on the necessity for a spot light source, but 40+ years of benchwork/board rework has been primarly under a magnified ringlight.

author: Dave Turner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2013, 05:45:06 pm
content: Dawn I did read the text. I was supporting the point.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2013, 05:07:44 pm
content: Quote from: Rigby on December 03, 2013, 06:45:58 pmVery interesting cost analysis. If it is correct, it contradicts the LED hype.Any hole in this analysis?

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2013, 08:33:36 pm
content: Not sure what hype you're talking about. I've never heard of any LED hype, but I don't get out much, so...LEDs haven't ever claimed to be cheaper or more efficient that I know of, just better light quality.They're a lot more expensive to purchase (Ben's video was done in 2010 or 2011 I believe, so this has changed, somewhat, probably) and I'm fairly sure LEDs are not as efficient as fluorescent lighting.There's alsoan Amp Hour episode where they interview the CEO of Cree. He answers a few questions about LEDs and efficiencies, etc.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2013, 09:31:35 pm
content: Quote from: Rigby on December 06, 2013, 08:33:36 pmE.g. this one "Over 80% more efficient than traditional fluorescents tubes"http://www.earthtechproducts.com/led-fluorescent-tube.html

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2013, 09:44:46 pm
content: Not on the same amount of light output, they're not.The key measurement here is lumens per watt. no one seems to publish this info, though, or if they're being especially shady, they'll leave out the lumen rating, the watt rating, or both entirely, so you can't figure it out yourself. also, it's difficult to know how the light output is measured.if something sounds too good to be true, it is either not true or not that good.

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2013, 09:47:57 pm
content: oh, by the way: if I am wrong then I am wrong. I am not an authority on these things.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2013, 10:11:42 pm
content: http://www.luxeonstar.com/Neutral-White-Lambertian-Rebel-145-lm-p/lxml-pwn1-0080.htmgot 50 of these for 20bucks 12 will go into a 5x10cm pcb for desk area lighting. the guy claimed this type of these leds however it wasnt in their carrier tape stucked into somekind of nasty foam material. atleast these have 8kv esd protection so should be fine. sharp probe marks on the terminals but no solder marks whatsoever will see their light quality once assembled. i would have loved better the LXML-PWN2 type from these but hell for the price. the best would be some of those decor arrays from bridgelux or another high cri led from cree but both of them goddam expensive

author: STCLSC
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 06, 2013, 10:28:57 pm
content: HiI use 3xIKEA desk lamps fitted with 20W CFL at 2700k. For me is the perfect combination, the light is warm and strong.Also the CFL have the advantage of using very low power and disipating very low heat(summer is very hot in my place).

author: calin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2013, 03:49:05 am
content: I have one of thesehttp://www.harborfreight.com/swing-arm-magnifying-lamp-69515.htmland replaced the incandescent with a CFL.But here is the crazy part ... I was working on a power supply and I noticed that I had a weird 60hz frequency ripple in everything I was measuring to see the voltage ripple on the regulators - I was using my analog scope. At one stage I got really pissed because no matter what I was doing the damn ripple was in my output. I was suspecting some kind of mains hum but I have an power conditioner etc .. pretty nice and all so common mode was kind of out the window. After an hour or so ... I decide do stand and get a beer and I push the lamp neck away from above the desk and magically my "60hz ripple" gets smaller .. i push away more the lamp gets even smaller ... turn lamp off .. even more. Then I have one of those WTF ?!! moments. Since ... i am thinking to switch to LED lighting. Hell in what I am doing I noticed that even the ceiling tubes are radiating that "gorgeous" 60Hz noise .. Meh lesson learned.Did you guys noticed that ? especially on the analog scopes just get a light close enough by the CRT ...

author: Dawn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2013, 04:02:46 am
content: Funny you should mention this. I was doing a cal job on the lower end of a B&K 290 FET TVM and kept getting what looked like the meter needle bobbling slowly. Just for the heck of it, pulled out my old RCA Senior Volt Ohmyst and plugged it into the strip and on the lowest range it was doing the same. Turned off the lamp and it stopped. This is the older HF ringlight with the transformer at the base that looks like a knockoff of the old Luxo's and not the newer one that has the works in the plastic ring head. Never noticed a problem before with anything else.

author: TheBorg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2013, 05:25:19 am
content: Hehe, funny lab phenomenon. I have a fan I use to blow fumes that goes faster and faster the closer you hold a hot soldering iron to itI goes form about 500 RPM to somewhere about 3000 I thinkThanks for all the help in this thread though. Working my way through it but I think I'm set for a while now.

author: Six_Shooter
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2013, 06:43:26 pm
content: Quote from: calin on December 07, 2013, 03:49:05 amI noticed something similar in the output of an Elenco function generator kit I built recently. It turned out the ground wire between PCB and output terminal had broke (solid core wire). Fixed that, and the 60 HZ carrier went away.

author: Mitchell Andrews
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2013, 05:38:22 am
content: I replaced the incandescent bulb in my (armature) bench light with a fluorescent ecosmart screw in 23 watt daylight natural. It puts out 1600 Lumens and has a similar brightness of a 100 watt bulb (seems like more). It stays fairly cool and it's focused only on the project at hand.. When I need some extra visibility for a particular area, I use a battery powered, 9 LED head lamp. I have found that the head lamp reduces some of the glare from the bench lamp, but can pose a challenge depending on the magnification type and angle being used. Overall though, the head lamp has been a nice hands free movable addition for certain situations.

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2013, 01:48:23 am
content: I use 2 Philips 6500k T8 bulbs. Very bright. Just installed them today, and man, I'm impressed. Kills the yellowish color I've been getting out of my youtube videos.

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2013, 10:00:20 am
content: Quote from: echen1024 on December 16, 2013, 01:48:23 amwhat do you think of the 6500K color? I would be afraid it's too "blue" tinted. Do you find that?Without anything to go on, I don't really have a good feel for the right color temperature, and I've been researching lighting for a while too.If I was going to buy something, I'd probably buy between 5500 and 6000.

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2013, 01:11:46 pm
content: I have 6500k bulbs, and.. yeah they're a bit "blue" compared to my 4500k bulbs, of course.The color doesn't matter to me a great deal, as long as they all match. It's the quantity of light that matters most to me. I need to be able to see. I don't want to be squinting or moving things in order to put the light on whatever I'm working on. My wife says I work inside the Sun, but I find that I have just the right amount of light.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 16, 2013, 01:27:18 pm
content: I use the Phillips Daylight Deluxe T-8 bulbs in a 4 bulb fixture. I like the 6500K light output. I swapped the same bulbs into my other 2 bulb fixtures in the office because of the quality of light. I don't do videos of any kind, but I need good light. At least my wife hasn't joked with me about working in the sun,yet. Codeboy2K, I had 5500K bulbs when I put up the 2 dual bulb fixtures when I remodeled my office. I thought they were fine until I "accidently" bought the daylight deluxe 6500K bulbs. To me, the light is very 'clean' and as Rigby's wife says, it is like having the sun overhead. Give them a try, I think you will like them.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2013, 02:51:33 pm
content: If I really need light I turn on a 70W metal halide uplighter. SWtarted off as a regular 500W halogen uplighter with failed dimmer, so I added a set of MH control gear in an external box and it currently has a 70W Osram daylight lamp in it. Bought a lifetime supply of spare lamps at auction for $2 as well, so no worries about it now.

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2013, 03:09:51 pm
content: Quote from: codeboy2k on December 16, 2013, 10:00:20 amThe 6500K is not too blue, persay, as it sharpens up the details when soldering and also is much brighter.

author: jahonen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2013, 03:31:16 pm
content: Higher color temperatures generally require more light to look good, seeKruithof curve. That said, I have 8000K Osram skywhites in my lab. They look bluish compared to lower color temperatures but are quite comfortable to work with as long you have enough light.Regards,Janne

author: Dave Turner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2013, 12:23:46 am
content: In my experience if in an enclosed environment (in particular for a laboratory) with colour temperature anywhere say from about 4500 to 7000 kelvin and lux between say 3000 and 10000 given a muted matt background, there isn't too much of a problem as one's eyes are generally happy in a constant environment.Think, when one first wakes up in the morning or switches on the bedside light at night it takes time for ones eyes to accept the change in illumination, and vision is difficult, even painful, until one has adjusted.With one or more windows in a lab providing natural light the key problem is the balance required between the varying contrast of both the lux and colour temperature of artificial lighting and natural lighting. In certain respects a home lab is harder to deal with than a commercial building due to considerations of scale.Fundamentally it all comes down to what one is most comfortable with.

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2013, 02:08:13 am
content: Quote from: jahonen on December 16, 2013, 03:31:16 pmOh dear. How much were those?

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 17, 2013, 02:43:03 am
content: echen1024, found 1 place here in the US. hhttp://www.superiorlighting.com/32_Watt_48_Mol_T8_Octron_Skywhite_Bulb_8000K_Col_p/22594-syl.htm They are expensive and you must order 30 bulbs!

author: jahonen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2013, 10:35:23 am
content: Quote from: echen1024 on December 17, 2013, 02:08:13 amI did order them from any-lamp.com (or actually from lamppuexpress.com which is Finnish version of any-lamp.com):http://www.any-lamp.com/osram-t8-l-58w-880-lumilux-skywhite-g13/orhttp://www.any-lamp.com/osram-t8-l-18w-880-lumilux-skywhite-g13/Regards,Janne

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2013, 10:42:28 am
content: Quote from: Six_Shooter on November 23, 2013, 09:13:33 pm+1 for mag lens with light ring of some sort.

author: AndersAnd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2013, 11:37:24 am
content: Be careful with cold light if you often spend time in you lab in the evening.Cold light (blue-enriched light) greatly suppresses the human bodys production ofmelatoninand hence affects your sleep if you're exposed to blue-enriched light in the hours before going to sleep.Recent studies by Centre for Chronobiology at Psychiatric Hospital of the University of Basel, Switzerland among others has shown negative effects on human sleep by exposure to blue-enriched light in the evening. But might also be contributing to a host of diseases.http://www.chronobiology.chArticle in New York Timeshttp://www.nytimes.com/2011/07/05/health/05light.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0QuoteAcute exposure to evening blue-enriched light impacts on human sleephttp://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jsr.12050/abstractQuoteQuote from the NY Times article:Quotef.lux is a freeware computer program based on this idea. It runs in the background and automatically adjusts the screen color temperature according to time of the day and your location. It's available for both Windows, Mac, Linux and iOS.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F.luxhttp://justgetflux.comI've been running f.lux on my laptop for a couple of years. It's a bit weird in the beginning as white backgrounds turns more red during the evening, but you soon get used to it and the transitions happens slowly so you don't notice sudden changes when sitting in front of the screen.Activating f.lux while doing color sensitive work like graphics and photo/video editing is probably not a good idea. But you can turn it of temporarily. But for most internet browsing, office work, PCB design etc. it's fine.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 17, 2013, 01:28:29 pm
content: I just downloaded f.lux. Andsrsand, you got me curious enough to try it. I will give my impressions tomorrow as I use my computer throughout the day and evening.

author: AndersAnd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2013, 01:51:30 pm
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on December 17, 2013, 01:28:29 pmNotice there's two settings settings for transition speed: Fast (20 seconds) and slow (60 minutes).I much prefer the slow 1 hour setting, otherwise you will get a sudden color temperature change, which you will really notice and I find this sudden change unpleasant. Not sure why there's even this option, 60 minutes works just fine.I have set it to 6500 K (daylight) at day and 3400 K (halogen) at night, but settings can easily be changed.Also remember to set your location correctly so it knows when the sun rises at sets where you are.It might take longer than a day to get used to f.lux running, especially on white backgrounds that you often see in e.g. office programs and internet forums like this one. They aren't true bright white at night but turn a bit more red and the light output seems much lower at night than during the day. It's easy to tell the difference when you manually turn it on and off.I just noticed under "extras" that f.lux can also be used to controlPhilips Hue lightsandPhilips Color Kinetics IntelliWhite fixtures, but I don't have any of those. But I like the idea of changing the color temperature of the lighting as well as the computer / tablet screens.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 17, 2013, 06:37:07 pm
content: Thanks for letting me know about the time. I just would have gone with the default settings. I will give it a few days to see how it goes. The first thing I did do was set the location.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 03:10:21 am
content: AndersAnd, I really like f.lux. I like it enough that I am going to install it on my laptop also. Thanks for pointing it out.

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 05:47:33 am
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on December 19, 2013, 03:10:21 amMe too. I've installed it yesterday.. it's quite an interesting color change from morning to night, but I admit that I like the warming up at night and when working late.Thanks for the pointer.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 09:12:28 am
content: If you get a magnification lamp, just be careful where you mount it in relation to the window and sun.There have been cases of the sun setting fire to things on peoples desks when it gets into the right position.Some brands have a flipout cover to prevent this.

author: Joule Thief
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 09:44:19 am
content: Quote from: Psi on December 19, 2013, 09:12:28 amand your ant farm too!

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 10:48:48 am
content: Quote from: EEVblog on November 26, 2013, 10:49:08 amI have been looking at running some LED lighting, are yours directly driven or any form of PWM, I am susceptible to migraine and any flickering sets me off.I am stuck with CCFL monitors.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 11:28:06 am
content: i'm no expert at the medical side of migraine induced by flashing lights but im pretty sure that only happens when the pulse rate is slow enough for the brain to sense it at some level.Above 100Hz most people cannot consciously observe flicker so LCD monitor backlight pwm tends to be in the 100-120Hz.But you can PWM LEDs at pretty much any frequency you want. 1000Hz is a good target but you could do 10,000Hz if needed. Its less efficient because your swiching transistor spends more time in a transitional state between on and off which is where heat is generated.I would be extremely surprised if 1khz PWM caused any sort of migraine

author: AndersAnd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 11:48:17 am
content: Quote from: TheBay on December 19, 2013, 10:48:48 amHave you tried one of the newer flicker free LED backlit monitors?Eizo and BenQ both make a range of flicker free LED monitors.The Latest on Computer Screens and Eye Fatiguehttp://www.eizo.com/global/library/basics/eyestrain/index.htmlQuotehttp://www.eizo.com/global/products/flexscan/ecoview_microsite/easy_on_the_eyes/index.htmlQuotehttp://www.benq.com/product/monitor/bl2710pt/QuoteBenQ currently has 16 ”flicker-free” monitors on the market [Danish article from December 10]:http://www.flatpanels.dk/nyhed.php?subaction=showfull&id=1386661177Quote

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 12:04:10 pm
content: LOL @ 80% of people saying they saw "a little" flickering in a DC driven led display.

author: AndersAnd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 12:12:15 pm
content: Quote from: Psi on December 19, 2013, 12:04:10 pmThe LCD panels themselves still have a screen refresh rate (typically 60 Hz) even if the backlight is DC driven. So it not unlikely they still see some flickering. The DC driven backlight is just not contributing to it.Notice they only made the test with 10 persons, so the percentages might not be very accurate.

author: Dawn
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 12:29:21 pm
content: I thought I'd jump in with an observation on chronobiological effects of "blue light" that's been in the press recently. I'm taking a leap here as I have no idea what the spectral distribution of old B&W crt's were, but the general perception was bluish. For those of you that grew up in that era, that familliar blue glow in an otherwise dark house was televison being watched in the evening, usually in the dark. That was also a time when there were no warnings about being too close to a TV set as children were wont to do and a familliar posture in the evening until color TV sets came out and the hysteria about "radiation" from the high acceleration voltages found in larger color TV's. In the 50's and 60's, it was typical for most families to essentially use tv in the evenings to zone out and most parents wound up carrying asleep kids from the living room to their beds. Same thing with the adults, especially men fire-staring into the box and nodding off. TV was sort of the general tranquilizer of it's time. That was pretty intense blue light by my recollection and a white wall would have the appearance of a UV sterilization light source by today's comparision. Just a thought. It didn't seem to be causing problems with sleep cycles when the average bedtime for children was around 8-9pm in the states, unlike nowadays where a primary school kid often stays up past 10pm between changing attitudes about kid's bedtime and homework loads that kids never had before that often occupy them all night unlike 40-50 years ago.

author: TheBay
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 02:29:40 pm
content: Wow thanks for that informationI am getting constant headaches and 24/7 vertigo which worsens by certain factors, I have had 4 MRI's, Lumbar punctures etc, they don't really know what's going on but some things trigger it like mad, such as LED monitors, Macbooks (tried a few and could not use them), they all seem to be okay at full brightness but it's as soon as I dim them I can see the flicker and get intense headaches, which is obviously due to the duty cycle of switching the LED's, this other technology looks interesting.Some shop lighting drives me mad, I can't shop in Tesco due to their lighting, incandescent lighting is fine even if driven by PWM, but due to the nature of those lamps you would probably never see the flicker as they will glow between stages, where as an LED is instantaneous.I have a Ducky mechanical keyboard, but cannot use the backlighting as the flickering is obvious, years ago I couldn't use a PC with the refresh rate on a CRT @50/60hz, would drive me nuts.Quote from: AndersAnd on December 19, 2013, 11:48:17 am

author: AndersAnd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 02:50:41 pm
content: Also check out this:Flicker Free Monitor Databasehttp://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/flicker_free_database.htm

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2013, 08:22:13 pm
content: Quote from: AndersAnd on December 19, 2013, 12:12:15 pmtrue, but a display flickering due to it displaying some flickering pixel data is hardly the monitors fault. Testing for monitor flicker should be done with a static image or the results are meaningless.yeah i did wonder if the sample size was small. All the percentages were suspicoulsly whole numbers and ther was many zero percents

author: codeboy2k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2013, 01:28:35 am
content: I'm also LOL @ the gamers (not from that study) that say in some other forums that "they bought the HP monitor over the ASUS monitor because it has 2us input lag (propogation delay) and the ASUS has a whole 2 frames of lag (> 30us @ 60FPS games)Good thing he bought that one... otherwise the opponent on the other side of the world 100ms away might shoot first in that 2us window.With the ASUS, he'd surely die more, but at least he'd have the monitor to blame.

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2013, 11:55:06 am
content: f.lux - cool program. Doesn't seem to support dual monitors.

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2013, 02:54:47 pm
content: Quote from: george graves on December 20, 2013, 11:55:06 amaww, what? dammit.

author: enz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2013, 03:46:39 pm
content: For me it works with dual monitors without problems.

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2013, 04:31:04 pm
content: I'm using a dual head graphics card. What are you running?

author: KuchateK
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 02:00:42 am
content: Quote from: AndersAnd on December 03, 2013, 10:47:33 pmI've spent some time lighting my workbench with these and IMHO they are the worst lights I had. Not very bright. It is single point source which means big contrast. A lot of bright reflections and sharp dark shadows. For electronics it is painfully bad.I've used fluorescent lights before, so I knew what to look for. Unfortunately I didn't have good way of mounting traditional fixture so after a little bit of searching I've found this:http://us.daylightcompany.com/product/daylight-triple-bright-lamp-32500/http://www.amazon.com/Daylight-U32500-Triple-Bright-Lamp/dp/B0052OT64K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387588726&sr=8-1That was great upgrade. Large area light with even distribution on the work area. Uses three 14W T5 (21", 525mm) tubes. More spec at the link above.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 12:03:39 pm
content: Are the bulbs standard T-5 or the HO bulbs? Watch the heat output of those bulbs. T-5 HO bulbs are popular in aquarium lighting but almost everything I have read about them is that they give off a lot of heat. That is why I didn't go with T-5s in my office. I didn't want to make the window air conditioner work any harder than it has to. The office was an addition on the house by the previous owner and is not tied into the house AC. The T-8 bulbs work almost as well with less heat output.

author: enz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 01:15:27 pm
content: Quote from: george graves on December 20, 2013, 04:31:04 pmATI Radeon HD5700 with these monitors:1. IIyama Prolite E2670WSD with 1920 x 12002. Benq FP91GX with 1280 x 1024

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2013, 04:32:57 pm
content: Wow, never knew some LED monitors used PWM at such ridiculously low frequencies ... that doesn't make any sort of sense, they already need a DC DC converter any way for the LEDs why then follow that up with some hacky PWM?

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2013, 08:19:59 am
content: Quote from: GreyWoolfe on December 21, 2013, 12:03:39 pmYes, this is very true. My main workbench lighting is a 4-bulb 48" T5HO fixture running the 54W bulbs @4100K. I love the light, it makes for an amazingly bright work area, but it definitely kicks out some heat. I have my work area in the basement so it isn't a problem for me - it actually helps warm it up a bit. Originally the fixture was installed over a 72 Gal. aquarium in my living room - that caused a litany of heating issues, the living room was certainly the warmest room in the house then, but the chiller on the aquarium ran a lot! There are also lower wattage T5 (non-HO?) bulbs available too, but then one might just as well run a T8 fixture really.

author: mrflibble
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2013, 07:47:20 pm
content: Quote from: Marco on December 21, 2013, 04:32:57 pmMain reason I can think is of color. If you PWM the led at a certain fixed current then the spectrum of the light emitted will be constant. If you lower the led current by going DC then you will get a color shift. So basically PWM-ing the leds makes color management easier.

author: owiecc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2013, 09:57:46 pm
content: Quote from: mrflibble on December 22, 2013, 07:47:20 pmBut this does not answer why they use _low_ PWM frequency.

author: mrflibble
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2013, 01:12:26 am
content: Quote from: owiecc on December 22, 2013, 09:57:46 pmBeats me.I was just responding to Marco's question on why they would use PWM at all.Quote from: Marco on December 21, 2013, 04:32:57 pmIncidentally, how low a frequency are we talking about here?

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2013, 01:27:37 am
content: Quote from: owiecc on December 22, 2013, 09:57:46 pmEMI?

author: AndersAnd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2013, 06:38:56 pm
content: Quote from: owiecc on December 22, 2013, 09:57:46 pmThe lower the switching frequency, the less switching losses.

author: AndersAnd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 10:23:07 pm
content: Quote from: TheBay on December 19, 2013, 02:29:40 pmLG is now jumping on the flicker-free bandwagon along with Eizo and BenQ.LG INTRODUCES ITS FIRST FLICKER-FREE MONITORSLG has announced two new ranges of PC monitors that are flicker-free for better viewing comfort. The new MP76 and MP75 IPS-based monitor series also feature LG’s Cinema design with slim bezels.Eizo and BenQ have both been pushing for flicker-free monitors for some time, as conventional monitors can causeeyestrain and headaches. LG is acknowledging the issue, too, and will start selling “flicker-safe” monitors soon with the MP76 and MP75 models.Read the rest of the article here:http://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1390811976Background article:LED MONITORS CAN CAUSE HEADACHES DUE TO FLICKERhttp://www.flatpanelshd.com/focus.php?subaction=showfull&id=1362457985LG MP76 press release:LG UNVEILS PREMIUM MP76 IPS MONITOR WITH STRIKING DESIGN AND SUPERB PICTURE QUALITYWith Clear Stand and Thin Bezel, Stylish MP76 Boasts Full HD IPS Displayand Flicker-SafeTechnology for More Comfortable Viewing Experiencehttp://www.lgnewsroom.com/newsroom/contents/64140LG 24MP76HM

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2014, 05:17:37 pm
content: That is interesting. I've seen gaming monitors which introduce an intentional 120Hz flicker in order to eliminate LCD streaking. The driver software on the PC runs everything at 120Hz, but every other frame is blank, with the backlight OFF, intentionally. This, apparently, is very effective in reducing motion blur on LCDs and making LCDs perform more like CRTs in terms of motion blur.http://www.testufo.com/#test=blackframes&count=2&equalizer=1

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2014, 02:43:22 pm
content: Alignment might play a role as well ... 200 Hz does not align with the refresh rate (60 Hz) so you will probably get some low beat frequency like effects.

author: AndersAnd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2014, 02:56:22 pm
content: Quote from: AndersAnd on December 17, 2013, 11:37:24 amForLinuxthere's alsoRedshift, as an alternative toxflux[f.lux for Linux].And forAndroidthere'sTwilight.Quote

author: michael.hill
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 03, 2014, 04:53:58 am
content: Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I'm thinking about getting some lighting for my workbenches. I'm thinking of getting these:http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-4-ft-White-T5-Fluorescent-Grow-Light-GRW-2-28-CSW-CO-M4/203407595#certona_recommendationsI have two of these:http://www.homedepot.com/p/Edsal-48-in-W-x-24-in-D-Workbench-with-Storage-MRWB-4/202545413(which are coincidentally the same as Ben Krasnow's in his fluorescent tube video mentioned earlier). Any thoughts on using these?

author: michael.hill
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 03, 2014, 05:37:09 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on December 03, 2014, 05:28:00 amIt's because there's a big warning that shows up when you're about to post in a thread nobody's posted in in 4 months.Thanks for your thoughts. Btw, there ARE other plants people use these for...(lol yeah right). The only pot these will be used for is looking at a nice Bourns 10-turn knob pot I found.

author: Rigby
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2014, 05:39:02 am
content: (if an old thread is on topic for your problem/question, then i say revive it. better for future readers, i think, if there's one thread rather than two about the exact same thing.)T8s are cheaper than T5s, for the reasons Ben mentions in his video.For my garage workspace, I got T8s, electronic ballasts, and I've been very happy with them. (the fixtures came with electronic ballasts.)

author: antonylex
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 05, 2017, 06:40:10 am
content: I'd suggest using an LED desk lamp or an LED floor lamp, because you don't need any drilling or complicated installation. They're easy to adjust the light angle too, so you usually don't have to worry about the shadow as you do with swing lamps. Just make sure they're bright enough.As for the color temperature, like someone else mentioned in this thread, theoretically a more blueish shade would keep you more alert and vice versa. However we have very different preferences and perceptions of colors (remember "the dress"?), so something that looks yellowish to one person and makes them feel sleepy may not look that yellowish, and thus doesn't have the same effect to someone else. Also some people don't seem to be affected by light color changes at all. So I guess you only need to care if you're really sensitive to light color. Best bet is to find one that allows you to adjust the color according to your mood/preference/the nature of the job and see how you operate in that light.For floor lamp, check the Brightech Lightview Pro Magnifier Lamp. Bright, dimmable, have magnifier, multiple color tempt.For table lamp, I recommend the BenQ eReading Lamp. Bright, dimmable, multiple color temp. The base is huge so if your desk is small you might want to use the clamp instead.Reviews of the Lightview Pro on Amazon:https://www.amazon.com/Brightech-Light-View-Magnifying-Lamp/dp/B00UW2IRJ2/Reviews of the BenQ:https://www.hookedtobooks.com/best-desk-lamps/

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2017, 03:03:00 pm
content: I have three of these and I'm probably going to buy more.http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-3-ft-LED-Black-Shop-Light-54254141/206028863At only 3 ft. long, they're not as bulky as a fluorescent fixture and weigh very little. I have two in my lab area hanging from hooks that are just screwed into the drywall ceiling. They are nice and bright at 3200 lumens. The 4000K color temperature is a clean white and easy on the eyes. It's not a harsh blue daylight color and there's no greenish tint. My only complaint is the power cord. Because it is meant to be okay for damp locations, the cord is permanently attached and is a thick and heavy cable with 3 prong grounded plug. I'm pretty sure if I cut the cord off it would weigh more than the remaining light fixture.edit: Here is a pictureCompare to before:

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2017, 05:43:27 pm
content: I find itveryuseful to have lightwhereI want it at theangleI want it - and to be able to change it until it is just right. Hence I like small gooseneck luminaires which I can grab and twist into the right location.I have a £25 Ikea Tived bolted to the back of the desk, and it works well.http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/lighting/wall-lights/tived-led-wall-clamp-spotlight-nickel-plated-art-10169692/The diameter of the head is around 4cm.

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2017, 06:55:59 pm
content: Quote from: rdl on August 05, 2017, 03:03:00 pmThose look like a good deal!And I am impressed with their magic light units and power generating properties:Quote