Fluke 189 with leaking surface mount supercap (also Fluke 287, Fluke 289) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: JohnDee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 04, 2013, 09:13:06 pm
content: I have a Fluke 189 multimeter. It suddenly died (nothing shows on the LCD display). I changed the 4 batteries (the old batteries were only slightly below normal). The two fuses checked OK. Inspection of the circuit board shows some leaking on a small (6.5mm diameter) surface mount battery. The marking of this two-tab coin cell has the logo of Matsushita (now Panasonic) and the numbers 3709. I could not identify this cell on the web in order to find a suitable replacement. I am hoping somebody can help...

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2013, 11:52:54 pm
content: Quote from: JohnDee on November 04, 2013, 09:13:06 pmI suggest you clean up the leakage with a q-tip/toothbrush with a generous amount of IPA.I remember seeing an ebay auction for what you are talking about ...http://www.ebay.com/itm/281103728372Right now, I can't find any more information regarding the specifications.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2013, 12:31:30 am
content: It might be the Panasonic EN gold capacitor?http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/components/pdf/goldcap_tech-guide_052505.pdf

author: JohnDee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 05, 2013, 12:42:33 pm
content: You are right !!! It is indeed a Panasonic EN gold capacitor. I see that it is available at Mouser ($2.84 unit price). I will order it and hopefully it will fix the problem. I also read the Panasonic Technical Guide you sent me and reading at sections 4.1 and 4.2 on expected lifetime it seems to me that selecting that capacitor was a poor design choice with a surface mounted component having to be changed after barely a few years of usage...Thanks for the great help !

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2013, 01:38:12 pm
content: Damn, is this leaking supercap at the board is a serious problem plaguing the fluke dmm 180 & 280 series ?As a new owner of 287, this makes me worry as I just knew it.JohnDee, please post the photo of that leaked cap and the damages at the pcb if any.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2013, 07:23:51 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on November 05, 2013, 01:38:12 pmthere is some internal pictures of the 287 here in the forum its hard to find btw.

author: uoficowboy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2013, 08:06:47 pm
content: Interesting - I had noticed that my 189 did not have the battery life that it used to have. Still lasting months... but it used to last years. So the consensus is that replacing this component will fix that?

author: tsmith35
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2013, 08:21:55 pm
content: Quote from: JohnDee on November 04, 2013, 09:13:06 pmFrom what I've found, that's a supercapacitor rated at 3.3V and 0.2F. Looks like they're discontinued, but perhaps one of these may do the job:Digikey

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2013, 08:32:21 pm
content: Just had a look in my 287 - some signs of corrosion on the cap

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2013, 08:41:10 pm
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on November 05, 2013, 08:32:21 pmhow old is your unit?

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2013, 08:47:19 pm
content: About 6 years old I think

author: JohnDee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 05, 2013, 10:38:26 pm
content: To answer BravoD's question below, the supercap on my Fluke189 looks very much like the one in mikeselectricstuff's 287 picture below.The original Panasonic supercap (P/N EECEN0F204AK) is still available in the USA and Canada from Digikey, Allied and others but with a min buy qty of 2,000pcs. May as well buy a new DMM... However I did a datasheet comparison and ELNA P/N DSK-3R3H204T614-H2L (corresponding to Digikey 604-1147-1-ND at $2.81ea, no min qty) as suggested by tsmith35 below looks like a good candidate for replacement. I will probably go with that one.

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 05, 2013, 11:01:38 pm
content: What does FLUKE say about this?Warranty?

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 01:37:08 am
content: Quote from: M. András on November 05, 2013, 07:23:51 pmA huge high res photo of 287's gut ->Fluke 287 DMM Teardown and photos, although its not very clear whether its using Panasonic cap, can't identify the (M) Matsushita logo like Mike's.Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on November 05, 2013, 08:32:21 pmQuote from: mikeselectricstuff on November 05, 2013, 08:47:19 pmMike, looks like you need to de-solder that cap off, worry it will going to burst out the goo once the container structure collapsed eaten by rust.My two 287s are manufactured in Jan and April 2013, will open it up to see which brand, its very unlikely they're using Panasonic Goldcap like Mike's since Panasonic already discontinued that for a while.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 05:09:59 am
content: My 287 is manufactured in April 2013 (Box label) with serial no 23780XXX.The ultra cap's date code 1204 is also showing corroded sign, not as bad as Mike's though. Definitely not Panasonic (Matsushita brand) with that (M) logo like Mike's.Does this thing leak ? Anyone knows what brand is that ?Dave, this issue should be a good material for a short video blog.Close up shots attached below.

author: Tasman
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 10:00:18 am
content: Just had a look inside my 187 - it does not have one of these capacitors.Seems like they are for the logging memory backup. Glad I didn't cough up the extra for the 189.

author: Svuppe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 10:16:58 am
content: Ahh, good news. I was going to open my 187 tonight, but thanks to you I don't have to.-Mikael

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 11:11:11 am
content: The original Xbox had the same problem with its supercapacitor... you should definitely replace it as it can cause rather serious damage to the PCB if it bursts:http://dannygalaga.com/xbox.htmlThere's also a rather strange paragraph in the datasheet given earlier:Quote

author: tsmith35
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 11:16:13 am
content: Quote from: JohnDee on November 05, 2013, 10:38:26 pmActually, with Digikey's shipping, you might as well buy a dozen and sell the remaining caps off on eBay for $6.88 each.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 12:42:26 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on November 06, 2013, 11:11:11 amInteresting, I missed that part.If the brown goo even grew into like Mike's is harmless, then its fine, but at JohnDee's its leaking and ruined the board and surrounding components as he claimed, wish he could share some close up photo here.

author: Kjelt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 02:35:37 pm
content: How about the calibration settings? Are those also going to be affected?

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 04:21:40 pm
content: Fluke 289 cap, board rev 14, cap has been dead for years.

author: somlioy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 05:00:07 pm
content: My fluke 289

author: JohnDee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 05:30:50 pm
content: Just to clarify things up, the supercap on my 189 is just as bad as the what has been shown in the previous pictures. It has NOT leaked onto the board or on other components.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 05:34:20 pm
content: Quote from: Kjelt on November 06, 2013, 02:35:37 pmNope, cal will be fine.

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 06:30:55 pm
content: Here's what my 189 looks like. It's a dry brown fuzz on this one.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 07:01:26 pm
content: fffs i will take mine apart in this weekend. if its leaking can i contact the distributor to get them replace the thing within warranty? as itsd will seriously decrase the life of the instrument

author: uoficowboy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 07:53:05 pm
content: Quote from: ModemHead on November 06, 2013, 06:30:55 pmThat's pretty much identical to the two 189s I looked at today.Is there any consensus on if these parts need to be replaced or not? Any means of testing them? I would be very sad if my 189 were to die!

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 07:58:37 pm
content: The note from the datasheet suggests that this behavior is normal for this particular cap and might not indicate its imminent failure.I just checked a fairly early 189 and it had a different surface mount supercap (with plastic sleeve) that did not show any signs of leakage.

author: tsmith35
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 08:19:55 pm
content: Quote from: M. András on November 06, 2013, 07:01:26 pmFrom the Fluke warranty page:Industrial Products Limited Lifetime WarrantyLifetime is defined as seven years after Fluke discontinues manufacturing the product, butthe warranty period shall be at least ten years from date of purchase. *(Lifetime Warranty applies to products manufactured after October 1996). The warranty does not cover manuals, fuses, disposable batteries, damage from neglect, misuse, contamination, alteration, accident or abnormal conditions of operation or handling, including failures caused by use outside of the product's specifications, or normal wear and tear of mechanical components. This warranty covers the original purchaser only and is not transferable. This warranty covers the LCD for 10 years only (state-of-the-art for LCDs). To establish original ownership proof of purchase is required (20, 70, 80, 170, 180 and 280 models).

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 08:29:31 pm
content: My 289's cap was completely shorted. I'd kinda been wondering why new batteries only lasted 2-3 days before going ka-put, however not enough to actually spend the time tearing it down! I've modified mine with a 2.1mm DC jack, it's been powered by a power supply for years sitting on the bench.Just ordered a new cap from Digikey for $2.50, for 5 minutes of down time I'll be back in business!

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 08:31:22 pm
content: i know what the warranty states but what is that damn component falls under?

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 09:19:14 pm
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on November 06, 2013, 08:29:31 pmJust note that this defeats most of the meter's protection circuit unless the barrel plug, lead and power supply offer the same isolation as the DMM. If you connect the common lead to mains, the barrel connector and power supply will probably also be at mains potential, something common DC barrel connectors and wiring are not designed to protect from. Not a big deal for separated extra-low voltage (eg. Arduino) circuits, as long as your aware and clearly indicate on the meter that the CAT IV 600 V (or even a CAT I 300 V) rating no longer applies.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 09:34:14 pm
content: Wait a minute, there's life above 3.3v?All kidding aside, absolutely, this is on my personal bench, otherwise I wouldn't allow it.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 09:44:43 pm
content: Some voltage references go all the way up to 7V! But fair enough, you have to get really creative to get shocked by low voltage DC. I would probably affix a label to the front notifying anyone picking it up of the mod, but I can certainly see the convenience of a wall-powered 289.

author: tsmith35
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 10:36:43 pm
content: Quote from: M. András on November 06, 2013, 08:31:22 pmIt's not a battery, so it seems pretty straightforward.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 01:16:02 am
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on November 06, 2013, 08:29:31 pmGreat to know this, thanks for sharing. For sure I will be watching the batteries consumption rate, if its getting significantly faster than it used to.Other thought, with that shorted cap, just curious if that heated up cap will increase the ambient temp inside the DMM significantly ? Cause the DMM case is quite thick and made from 2 layers of different plastics which is quite effective to seal out the heat from inside.Assuming we're not going to chase for warranty from Fluke, on the cap replacement, is there any better alternative brand/type of supercap that won't leak and has much more longer life than just <5 years ? Size wise for the replacement cap is not that critical since there should be enough space.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 01:30:10 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on November 07, 2013, 01:16:02 amMine had a phantom draw, I knew it was there just never bothered to find it cause it was bench powered, easy enough to test by measuring standby current.Since it's only the settings and date/time that is stored by the supercap, reliability really isn't that much of a concern, just replace the cap if and when it goes bad, especially since you can buy like and kind for about $2.50.Your correct though, there is plenty of room if you'd like to retrofit a higher voltage piece, hopefully with longer life.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 02:28:32 am
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on November 07, 2013, 01:30:10 amAgree, its just I don't like the idea of knowing that the cap is keep growing nasty brown goo, that may leak or burst it's liquid once the container is weakened enough by corrosion caused by that brown stuff.Possible candidates are CDE Cornell Dubilier type ELDR ultracap (Datasheet) which highlights the long-life feature than ordinary ultracap.Same capacitance as original cap at 0.2F 3.6V, and cost $2.79 a pop at Digikey ->EDLRD224H3R6C, has two terminals styles like above pics, just abit bigger than original cap and not much, and I think its still manageable like by bending it's legs to fit in the solder pads.

author: true
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 03:46:56 am
content: I've repaired a couple of these (that otherwise wouldn't turn on) with 22uF MLCCs. As long as batteries are in the unit it works fine...I think they may lose settings during battery change but it's been a while since I've had to change them, maybe I should check?

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 08:32:32 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on November 07, 2013, 02:28:32 amYup, this one should fit no problem, and probably last longer like you said.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2013, 04:50:57 pm
content: For anyone wondering, Digikey part#P11068CT-ND is a perfect fit for the original on the 289.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2013, 01:43:31 pm
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on November 08, 2013, 04:50:57 pmDid you purchase that ? Digikey currently don't carry it anymore for cut tape, and also I can't find the datasheet at Panasonic for this product type, another discontinued series ?

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2013, 01:48:29 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on November 09, 2013, 01:43:31 pmSure did:

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2013, 04:21:52 pm
content: Damn, I guess I was blind when I browse the Digikey.Btw, that Panasonic cap doesn't have any datasheet, and at the DK page its rated with lifetime @ Temp. 500 Hrs @ 60°C.Just fyi, at the CDE type ELDR ultracap I pointed previously, after the exposure of 2000 h at +85 ºC ,still capable of maintaining ±30% of the initial measured value.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2013, 04:25:17 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on November 10, 2013, 04:21:52 pmYou are correct Sir, I should have put forth a bit more research into retrofitting a better cap, time got the best of me.I'll be doing this exercise again in the future.

author: smoothtalker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2013, 10:13:11 am
content: is this leaking cap issue affecting all fluke 289? i'm disappointed with fluke how can this happen to their top of the line modal.I'm thinking of buying 289, but now i guess i've to stick with 87v. fluke 289 is disappointing.. leaking cap, the ghosting dot matrix lcd, the poor battery life. expensive usb cable, and lack of thermal probe compared to 87v etc.other than graphing are there advantages for 289 over 87v? ok i can see loz and crest factor calculation.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2013, 10:41:44 am
content: Really depends on your requirements. I am not happy with my 289, it's huge and bulky, battery life is not good. If they made the 289 in a compact bench unit I'd be a happy camper.Note, there is an available TC probe for the 289, which I do use all the time.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 05:15:51 am
content: I suspect the decaying cap has something to do with poor battery life ?

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 11:19:06 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on November 13, 2013, 05:15:51 amVery true, but even with a properly working cap the battery life is not too good IMO. If memory serves the 289 is rated for just under 200 hours, with no back-light use. Probably fine for light duty use, but in heavy industrial applications your having to change the batteries every 2 week.Here in the dark depths of a power plant, the auto power off and auto back-light off are always disabled.The 287/289 should have come with a rechargeable pack, charging nightly or every few nights would have sealed the deal.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 11:43:38 am
content: I think officially, they're supposed to leak slightly over their rated lifetime, according to the product datasheet.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 12:01:03 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on November 13, 2013, 11:43:38 amThat's disappointing. As Bravo stated, there is plenty of physical room, heck that meter is HUGE, they should have used a more suitable cap, with hopefully no leakage.

author: turbo!
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 09:02:23 pm
content: I opened my up and guess what, its doing it too

author: turbo!
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 09:05:22 pm
content: Quote from: smoothtalker on November 12, 2013, 10:13:11 amThe user interface to use the peak min/max in 189 is crap and capacitor test algorithm (for which one of the 87V's patent is for) on 87V is better, but my 189 is plagued with this leaking cap and the 87V is plagued with GSM interference susceptibility.Great eh?

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2013, 04:17:31 am
content: Quote from: turbo! on November 13, 2013, 09:02:23 pmLooks like there are many variations of these Matshusita caps installed at Fluke DMM aren't they ?Yours doesn't seem to have that brown goo sticking on it. Maybe that black shrinked plastic wrapper is protecting the outer shell ?Is it dead ?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2013, 04:29:46 am
content: I had Panasonic cordless phones with a similar supercap that was used to store data like number lists and such in them Those caps never did that, the only failures were the leads breaking off and the cap rattling around loose in the case. 0.022F 5V cap with through hole leads. I retired the last one ( mine) last year as I had run out of spare parts for it, it did 15 years of work. I had a pile that I used for RF modules, antenna's, microphones, speakers, cases and keypad rubbers. The handset flap latches were weak, so I modified it to use a small magnet ( CDROM lens motor) and a reed switch to replace the switch as well. These were expensive units, costing around $150 each when new.

author: turbo!
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2013, 01:34:48 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on November 14, 2013, 04:17:31 am

author: Napalm2002
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2013, 02:04:24 am
content: Has anyone come up with an ideal replacement?

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 27, 2013, 02:11:13 am
content: Check post #38, although it is not a fully ideal replacement regarding it's size, but check both datasheets, the CDE Cornell Dubilier type ELDR ultracap can be easily soldered with a bit of tweaking, and since the DMM still has plenty of spare space in there, it should not be a problem.When it comes to long term reliability, it beats that shitty Matshusita cap out of the water, simply no contest here.Quote from: BravoV on November 10, 2013, 04:21:52 pm

author: JohnDee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 12:36:46 am
content: By the way, I just replaced the supercap on my Fluke 189 and it is now back to life !! I used the Elna supercap suggested by tsmith35 (reply #7; Digikey PN 604-1147-1-ND) but also bought as a backup the CDE Cornell supercap suggested by BarvoV (reply #38) just in case. The Elna has the exact same footprint which made the re-soldering a simple task. As the originator of the initial query, I wish to thank all contributors to this blog for having helped me solve my problem - Cheers !

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 12:47:32 am
content: Quote from: JohnDee on November 28, 2013, 12:36:46 amThanks for reporting back. Too often, we never get feedback from the original poster.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 01:12:52 am
content: Quote from: retiredcaps on November 28, 2013, 12:47:32 am+1 , thanks too, and this thread will be good resource and its proven, and maybe useful for someone that experiencing the same problem.JohnDee, since you're the thread starter, suggesting to update the thread title (edit the 1st post's title) by adding two words "287" and "289", hopefully these will help improve the search result.Meanwhile, since this is a proven fix, maybe its time to stalk cheap & dead Fluke 189 on ebay ?

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 01:50:31 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on November 28, 2013, 01:12:52 amJust remember that the modern Flukes are all closed case calibration. So dead modern Flukes do have a risk of being uncalibrated after being repaired.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 01:56:54 am
content: Quote from: retiredcaps on November 28, 2013, 01:50:31 amC'mon retiredcaps, I guess probably your finger will be itchy to pull the trigger after seeing an offer for a dead 189 but with good physical for a price say at $50 or less ? Worth the gamble isn't it ?I'm pretty sure ModemHead will do it.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 04:45:26 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on November 28, 2013, 01:56:54 am

author: Napalm2002
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 03:10:09 pm
content: I love my 289. I know battery life sucks but I feel that it's worth a few batteries every two weeks to have that much power at your fingertips.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 03:49:19 pm
content: Quote from: Napalm2002 on November 28, 2013, 03:10:09 pmHow old is your 289 ?Not sure though, maybe the leaking cap is also leaking the current and drains the battery even its turned off ? As we know this 280 series never turned off galvanically by design.

author: Napalm2002
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2013, 12:42:06 am
content: I bought my 289 used about a year ago. I don't get to use it often and I do not have to replace batteries every two weeks. I was commenting on previous posts about the non desirable battery life. I do feel that no matter how often that I need to replace the batteries that it is worth it to have soo much diagnostic power in te palm of your hand.Snake dr out...

author: smoothtalker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2013, 10:51:38 pm
content: I'm just wondering, why doesn't anyone consider sending it back for warranty claim?? isn't it lifetime warranty??? I've never sent in my fluke but i purchase them for that reason. LOLand if everyone send in.. fluke will surely notice this "design problem" and improve?

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2013, 11:32:34 pm
content: Quote from: smoothtalker on November 30, 2013, 10:51:38 pmSee Fluke's definition in attached picture taken from the 187/189 manual. The 89IV/189 are discontinued.In addition, some of us buy used/abused Flukes which do not officially qualify.

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2013, 01:22:51 pm
content: Quote from: smoothtalker on November 30, 2013, 10:51:38 pmFor me personally? It took me < a few minutes to fix my 289, vs filing with Fluke, mailing the unit in, waiting for them to fix it, shipping back etc.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2013, 01:30:07 pm
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on December 01, 2013, 01:22:51 pm+1Also there is no guarantee that Fluke will replace it with better cap than this problematic one, and even though you still can make the same claim again in next few years, meanwhile you suffer from the high battery drain while the cap is rotting in those period.My relatively new 287 with date code April 2013 already shows the early rotting sign at the cap.

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 01, 2013, 02:39:04 pm
content: But by repairing aren't you voiding the warranty?

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2013, 02:46:32 pm
content: Quote from: EdoNork on December 01, 2013, 02:39:04 pmOf the hundreds that I've deployed, never once a bad Fluke, saving weeks of RMA time is worth the risk IMO.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2013, 03:34:33 pm
content: Quote from: Napalm2002 on November 28, 2013, 03:10:09 pmI bought my 289 at an auction in june (was not used), and havent even changed the batteries that came with it, it doesnt get used a lot, but at least, the batteries is not draining..

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2013, 02:01:33 am
content: I have two 187 and a 189 of different manufacture batch. No leaky caps. No battery drain. Battery life has been great with Eneloops. I never have to worry about it.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2013, 02:03:42 am
content: Quote from: nukie on December 02, 2013, 02:01:33 amI thought 187 doesn't have that cap ? See post #15.

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2013, 02:20:44 am
content: Yes I know 187s have no caps, what I mean was the 187s and 189 have similar battery consumption and I have replaced my 189 cap. It wasn't leaky or anything but it sure looks pretty rusty when I got it last time.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2013, 02:26:07 am
content: Is that the new replaced cap ? I can see there is a (M) Mashusita logo on it, are you using the same type ?Isn't that Mashusita brand product is no longer produced and replaced by Panasonic brand ?

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2013, 02:29:21 am
content: I bought it from rockby.com.au many years ago but it seems they don't have it anymore.I bought some Panasonic FM, FR caps from Digikey recently they are still using the "M" logo. I have some bigger EC series caps have the full "Panasonic" printed on them but the M logo would save them printing cost on caps that cost a few cents.I found exact replacement here for $1http://www.westfloridacomponents.com/J544APK02/0.1uF+5.5V+Memory+Backup+Capacitor+Panasonic+EECS0HD104.htmlDisregard the specs on the webpage it's entered incorrectly the part no. ending with 104 is 0.1FCapacitance: 0.10uF would not be a supercap. It would be a very poorcap.

author: smoothtalker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2013, 04:17:00 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on December 01, 2013, 01:30:07 pmDave should really do a video on this issue. Fluke needs to do something. It's actually quite a shame to Fluke's reputation that this is happening.

author: CSmith
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 03, 2013, 04:51:35 am
content: I have the Fluke 189, and I bought the "upgraded" Fluke 289 when it came out. Am I alone in that I find myself preferring the Fluke 189? I believe that I find the boot time of the Fluke 289 to be excessive.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2013, 04:57:25 am
content: Quote from: smoothtalker on December 03, 2013, 04:17:00 amAgree, and the worst part is this problem is affecting Fluke's high-end models which I think deserved more attentions, especially 287 or 289 are belong to top tier models, and they are not cheap.Already raised this issue to Dave at my post #14, and also PM-ed him, but no reply yet though.A few more similar PMs from some of you that have the same concern to Dave probably will raise his attention, just a suggestion.Also I think this issue alone has good and enough materials to make single video out of it, especially involves more details like measuring the off current, ultra cap leak, or ask people who are affected to do the same measurements to gather much larger data and get a clue what is happening and etc.If I had a chance, I will measure the off state current consumption on my both 287s to see if there are big differences, and hope not.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2013, 05:55:28 pm
content: Add Fluke 1653 with potential bad Panasonic gold EN cap to list as perhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-1653-installation-tester-repair-help/

author: smoothtalker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2013, 09:41:00 pm
content: Someone needs to tell Fluke about this! I can't find any contact details on Fluke website after they change it.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2013, 08:19:58 am
content: Quote from: smoothtalker on December 06, 2013, 09:41:00 pmDon't think they will give a damn.If friends ask me about 280 series, looking at current situation, I will tell them to go Agilent straight a away.Looking at the past experience with 87V model which was vulnerable to GSM phone signal, that Dave raised up while ago, looks like Fluke reacted quickly. Again, I think raising this to Dave and hopefully he will consider to make a video on this once he sees enough people are "whining" about it.

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 08, 2013, 09:37:32 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on December 08, 2013, 08:19:58 amCorrect.

author: smoothtalker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2013, 02:27:12 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on December 08, 2013, 08:19:58 amActually Fluke took quite a while over the GSM issue. Don't seem very sincere though. Fluke seems to be becoming more passive in everything recently.I do have contact of Fluke's Marcom manager. Unfortunately she is not related to engineering. We need your powers Dave! Where are you Dave!

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 08, 2013, 03:36:44 pm
content: Has anyone actually shipped a meter with leaking cap to Fluke and was refused repair?

author: Nermash
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 07:29:41 am
content: Maybe we should ask Martin from mjlorton channel to do a video about this... He has a 287 which is old enough to demonstrate this issue.Last time it took Fluke arround 18 months to issue a firmware update for 287 (problem causing shutdown when logging, in presence of high intensity IR source around data port).This would probably take the same amount of time, and the solution would probably be the same as with the 87V GSM issue: "send it for calibration and we will fix it for free".

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 02:31:18 pm
content: The difficulties, cost and resources needed in fixing issues just by updating the firmware, is nothing when compared to fixing an issue that needs Fluke to replace that sick cap from complaining owners, maybe also unsold products withdrawal that are affected, new cap thorough testing, procurement and etc.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2013, 11:20:19 pm
content: Does someone with a non gmail/yahoo/hotmail (in case Fluke blocks these addresses) address want to try contactingduane.smith@fluke.comHe is Senior Sale Support at Fluke. I have seen a lot of his articles. His linkedin profile.http://www.linkedin.com/pub/duane-smith/11/434/436

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2013, 08:28:02 am
content: fluke didn't block my gmail when contacting them atleast, I mailed them because i got my 289 with and note to register for getting probes, the link at fluke was dead, but they responded, and month later I got my probes.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 07:59:58 am
content: Just had a look in my 289 - no corrosion on the cap.I bought it in mid 2013 but the setup menu / info says it was built 25 Jun 2010 but calibrated 25 Apr 2013.The board is Rev. 015.Cheers

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 08:53:36 am
content: Quote from: retiredcaps on December 09, 2013, 11:20:19 pmMartin did a video and will send an email to Duane.

author: Huluvu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 09:19:43 am
content: Just watched Martins Video and checked the behavior of my Fluke 189 which shows the same residues on the super-cap surface.I found this remark in the Datasheet fromPanasonic(page 20):QuoteFor myself I will monitor the part periodically if something changed, but it is not that dramatically as described by the OPi'm more concerned about leaking batteries by storing a meter for a long time period.

author: mimmus78
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 09:50:18 am
content: Mine 287 is from 2007 or 2008 and supercap is corroded.I think this should be changed ...

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 09:51:01 am
content: Quote from: winluk on January 03, 2014, 07:59:58 amThat is weird, what is the current cal count ? If its still 1 (one), then this must be strange, manufactured in 2010 but with 2013 factory cal date is quite long time.Are you sure you're not mistaken by the bootloader's date at the info screen ?Also "assuming" the marking at the cap represents the cap's date code, then your cap there is quite new (made at 2013), while at my 287 is manufactured in April 2013 (check post #14), and with the cap's date code at 2012.Here my 287 info screen and it's box which stated its manufactured at April 2013, and yes, both serial no (blurred here) are identical at the meter and at the box.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 09:56:40 am
content: Bootloader build is the firmware build date, it would have been programmed later than that, and the cal date says it was finally assembled and tested probably the day before and then left running overnight for burn in prior to calibration. AFAIK Fluke uses an ATE bed to do cal, so the date would be the time of manufacture within a week at most before, and the first cal is the factory one.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 09:57:44 am
content: QuoteCalibration Date: 25/04/13Calibration Counter: 1Board ID: 3The rest is same as per your screen...I'm DOPE!!!The 'built' part is for the 2 liner... "ARM bootloader..... built 08:38:05, Jun 25 2010"

author: mimmus78
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 09:58:11 am
content: I think this "built" date is relative to the build date of the boot loader (when it was compiled) not to the meter "motherboard".

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 10:03:44 am
content: Quote from: winluk on January 03, 2014, 09:57:44 amWell, just see at the bright side, at least you now have few months to enjoy the shiny ultra cap before its starting to poo out around at the outer shell like mine.

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 07:31:47 pm
content: after watching Martins videoI had a look in my 289 and it is also having some leakage on the capacitorAlthough that looks like an easy to fix issue, I must say, that is not what I expected to see in my Fluke.

author: Terabyte2007
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 10:32:32 pm
content: Looks like I am cracking open my 289 this weekend!

author: CSmith
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 11:17:26 pm
content: I opened up two of my Fluke 189's and two of my Fluke 289's, and their supercaps were all in pristine condition despite the passage of time, so some of the supercap's must be up to the challenge. I wonder if it is a supercap manufacturing quality issue such that there were bad batches, or whether there might be environmental influences that help spur them to go bad.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2014, 05:01:59 am
content: Quote from: CSmith on January 03, 2014, 11:17:26 pmInteresting, how old are those 189s and 289s ?

author: CSmith
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 05, 2014, 11:26:01 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on January 04, 2014, 05:01:59 amBy purchase date, the 189's were acquired in 2002/12/05 and 2003/06/05.By initial calibration date, the 289's were first calibrated in 2008/5/15 and 2009/6/15.

author: mjlorton
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2014, 12:43:02 am
content: After posting a video on the issue I emailed Duane (Fluke). He has just responded with the following:On 1/6/2014 6:40 PM, Smith, Duane wrote:> We are aware of the failures of this particular part. We are working with the vendor in hopes of determining why these particular parts are leaking.> Customers who have units either where the cap has failed or experienced leakage can get their units repaired under warranty at their closest Fluke service facility.> Since this part is soldered to the pcb, customer replacement is not recommended as it will void the units warranty.>> The capacitor specification says that the capacitor should draw <150 uA after 10 minutes.> If there were one measurement to take, it would be to measure battery draw with the unit off after applying the battery voltage for 10 minutes. The> current draw on failed caps will rise after 10 minutes.>> The good news is the supercap is only in the unit to maintain the units date and time. It has no other purpose. It does not support instrument memory or logged /saved readings.> After we hear back from our component vendor we will determine next steps needed if any but for the short-term customers who own units affected by this part can have it replaced> under warranty through Fluke service centers worldwide.>> Cheers, Duane

author: ModemHead
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2014, 01:06:33 am
content: Thanks for looking into this and posting the response. That explains why I have to reset the clock every time I change batteries, but never lose the logged data.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2014, 05:43:29 am
content: Martin, thanks for the update, really appreciate it !Quote from: mjlorton on January 07, 2014, 12:43:02 amGreat info ! Now, I'm going to measure mine.Curious on the time, why 10 minutes ?Edit : NVM, found it in the cap datasheet.

author: Huluvu
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2014, 07:06:29 am
content: Quote from: mjlorton on January 07, 2014, 12:43:02 amWhat about removing the supercap permanently from the Meter?I rarely use the logging capability.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2014, 07:16:27 am
content: Quote from: Huluvu on January 07, 2014, 07:06:29 amOr maybe replace it with just ordinary lower capacitance cap, but good and reliable one ?

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 08, 2014, 01:29:04 pm
content: Someone posted a link to a Panasonic datasheet with what looked like to be the same super-cap. type; in the datasheet it specified the max. current draw to be 10uA and just wondered what the draw was on the Flukes and also the operating voltage; there seem to be 2 types which look very similar ; the EN and EM types but have different properties; for example the EN has a current limit of 10uA and can be reflowed upto 250c for 5 secs according the information at the start of the document but the EM type seems like it can only be reflowed to 240c, but yet has no max. current draw specified. It's interesting to note that the specification for the EN type mentioned the reflow of 240c but that conflicts with the information at the beginning of the document.Did someone get the EN and EM types mixed up maybe? Or maybe they reflowed the EM type to the EN temperature described at the top of the document?Looking at Mikes DMM, with the wide tabs it looks like a Type A, but is that an EN or EM?

author: bernroth
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2014, 09:52:32 pm
content: Just for the statistics: The problem is not only with the multimeters, the Fluke 1653 installation testers are affected too by this problem. I suspect the newer models 1653B/1654B using the same cap!I recently bought two Fluke 1653 installation testers and while checking them internally I found exactly the same type of surface mount capacitors on the front panel leaking like hell. The testers are not the newest but honestly this must not happen.I replaced them with two TH supercaps (rated 0.25F@5V) and everything is back working normal.

author: mjlorton
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2014, 01:17:03 pm
content: Further feedback from Duane / Fluke:"As a follow up to this discussion, I've attached the datasheet for the supercap. If you review Note 1 toward the bottom of the page, it makes note of "brown deposited materials found around the sealing area" and the fact that this material will not affect the electrical performance of the part. So, in essence in some situations this leakage could be found as normal under some environmental conditions. Regardless, we plan on still working with the vendor to clarify this further."

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 09, 2014, 01:30:42 pm
content: Quote from: mjlorton on January 09, 2014, 01:17:03 pmThanks Martin for clarifying the actual part number used.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2014, 09:21:22 am
content: Even though its harmless, is it fair to expect from a high end Fluke's DMM series that use component that doesn't poo ?Its very disappointing, especially they already knew it from the beginning.

author: eb4eqa
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2014, 02:36:13 pm
content: Hi all,I found leackage on the top of the cap in my 289 (5 years old). I simply removed it since I don't change batteries that frequently but I do want to prevent further damage to the PCB.I use eneloops in it and they last for a long time with the use I make of the meter. I am a big fan of those batteries, highly recommended.Thanks from bringing this up,Roberto EB4EQA

author: CSmith
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 10, 2014, 04:25:11 pm
content: I really do appreciate Fluke's continued use of common AA batteries in their handheld meters, especially compared to Agilent's (Keysight?) use of AAA batteries that do not last very long at all in these more sophisticated meters.

author: ron
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2014, 06:44:26 pm
content: What corrosion? What "corrosive" material is in a cap? Remember that the original poster thought it was a battery cell.I just checked my oldest 189 and sure enough the cap had obviously leaked. I used a tooth pick to remove the most of the dried brown crud (Latin term for dielectric?) and wiped the remaining residue off with a q-tip dampened with IPA. Looks clean now. Under a 20x loupe, I see no pitting or "corrosion" on the cap case. The residue is harmless except it indicates a failed or failing cap.Yes, this cap has a problem, but it isn't going to corrode the pcb or anything else.Don't panic.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2014, 11:31:22 am
content: Quote from: ron on January 10, 2014, 06:44:26 pmIf cap already oozed out so many of it's internal material, let alone this goo if its harmless, but then this raised few questions :Does the leakage current still at < 150uA as new one ?If the internal leakage is increasing, then how much ? Will the cap suck the battery charge significantly even the DMM is at OFF position, since its basically connected all the time to the battery.Still don't have time to measure my 287s off current.

author: ron
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 11, 2014, 08:09:02 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on January 11, 2014, 11:31:22 amThe cap apparently failed open(or nearly open), as would be expected. Current draw in off position is <70uA. This meter does forget time when batteries are removed -- a non issue for me.I checked another 189 and 2 289's and they are OK. Using enerloops, battery life in all of my X89 meters is much better than spec.

author: SoundTech-LG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 05:45:00 am
content: Hi,I'll have to tear into it and check, but I bought a 189 off ebay recently. When it arrived it was dead. Replaced the batteries, and it came right up.Curious now if the supercap is the reason.

author: SoundTech-LG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 05:24:05 pm
content: Had the creeping crud... removed the cap entirely. Cleaned up the mess on the board. Not sure I will be installing a replacement. Never use logging storage. Oh, date/time... maybe I will replace!

author: true
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2014, 07:10:56 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on January 07, 2014, 07:16:27 amI wrote this earlier in the thread, but I did just this and it works fine.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2014, 07:33:34 am
content: Is there any significant change on the battery's life after the replacement ?

author: SoundTech-LG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2014, 04:44:33 pm
content: Besides my personal 189, we have one here at work that is used in the RF Lab daily. I inquired as to it's history of battery life, the main user says he thinks it typically lasts over one year. We have not however done an inspection of this one yet . I'm a bit confused on the exact purpose of the SuperCap. Does it's usefullness only come into play during battery swaps, when there is no other voltage present to maintain the memories? Mine is without one now, but if I just power off, and back on, it still seem to retain memory.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2014, 04:51:50 pm
content: That cap's purpose is just to retain the dmm clock during batteries replacement, according to Fluke.

author: SoundTech-LG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2014, 05:07:00 pm
content: Thanks... that's good to confirm, I was coming to that conclusion. I think I'll just leave it out. Obviously it caused more problems for Fluke, than it solved.

author: tony3d
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2014, 06:31:15 pm
content: According to CDI The life expectancy seems to be 2.8 years. That is dependent on several factors, one humidity must remain below 50%. Kinda strange for a meter meant to last 10 years!

author: stuartk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2014, 04:11:03 pm
content: I cracked the case on my 289 purchased in 2007 and found the leaking capacitor. It was giving me intermittent loss of timekeeping.I sent it off to Fluke Canada. Apparently they have a lifetime warranty up here in the frozen north.They have replaced the cap, changed my scuffed up battery cover, changed the batteries and re-calibrated it, with a certificate and documentation.All for free.Kudos to Fluke Canada and thank you.Stuart

author: Excavatoree
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2014, 04:20:54 pm
content: Has anyone found the Fluke part number for this capacitor? When one has a meter repaired under warranty, is this information given? I'd expect not, but since these aren't available in the US in quantities less than 2000, I was considering ordering from Fluke. However, Fluke will do no parts research - one has to know the part number.

author: stuartk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2014, 08:39:54 pm
content: No they didn't. They only said replaced capacitor C145...

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2014, 08:46:50 pm
content: Quote from: Excavatoree on February 13, 2014, 04:20:54 pmSearch back a few pages, I replaced mine with a $2 part from Digikey.

author: Excavatoree
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2014, 08:56:47 pm
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on February 13, 2014, 08:46:50 pmI saw that. It looks like that's the only alternative for a non-warranty unit.My 189 has the larger capacitor pictured earlier in this thread. It seems to be OK, but I didn't unsolder it to look underneath.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2014, 02:59:06 am
content: Quote from: stuartk on February 13, 2014, 04:11:03 pmStuart, closeup photo of the newly replaced cap please.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2014, 04:34:29 am
content: Quote from: stuartk on February 13, 2014, 04:11:03 pmHi Stuart,Are you the original owner of the meter and did you purchase it from an authorized dealer?edit: The other advantage of sending it back to Fluke for repair, especially if you owned the meter for a few years, is that you might get calibration thrown in for free.

author: SoundTech-LG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2014, 06:13:30 pm
content: Quote from: BravoV on February 14, 2014, 02:59:06 amProbably would void the calibration

author: stuartk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2014, 12:38:48 am
content: Yep,I'm the original owner. I was going to crack the case, but they put the calibration sticker and a tamper sticker over the case.I think they were trying to send a message to me after I sent them a picture of my leaking cap!I suspect I might mess up the calibration if I crack it in anyhow....Stuart

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2014, 05:20:33 am
content: Quote from: stuartk on February 17, 2014, 12:38:48 amWell, thanks for reporting back. I wouldn't break the seals either if it were my meter.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2014, 08:17:14 am
content: +1 , thanks for the update.I guess we'll have to wait at least until next year to be able to peek the replaced cap in Stuart's 289.

author: SoundTech-LG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2014, 01:28:56 am
content: One, or two things seem pretty certain. One funky Super Cap does not ruin the Fluke reputation. Fluke equipment holds it's value, particularly the handhelds. They get re-sold for quite respectable sums on a regular basis. This, in contrast to the junk meters that you toss in the trash.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2014, 02:00:14 am
content: Agree, apart from the ultra-cap problem, have to admit this 28x series build quality is excellent.I was very impressed when seeing Martin tested his 287 in freezing cold in the chill box, the measurement result was still spot on with it's spec at operating temp -20 °C to 55 °C.

author: elex_enthusiast
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2014, 12:41:27 pm
content: hi guys..i have a 1 year old fluke287 and it consumes battery much faster..i opened the case and i saw the same cap corroding.. i wonder if a 0.06F supercap i have could be a good replacement?

author: kaz911
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 09:17:16 am
content: Quote from: elex_enthusiast on February 18, 2014, 12:41:27 pmDon't fix them. I just handed a 289 and a 287 into Fluke and they will be repaired on warranty despite being quite oldFluke has "Limited World Wide" warranty on them - and they have a list of serial numbers for which repair is free of charge. As I only paid $200 for my 289 since it was not perfect - I'm now very happy that has been fixed on warranty as well.And to quote the Calibration girl - 287/289's are really well made apart from the Cap issue - so they are usually in spec/calibration even after 6+ years - they have so far not seen a working 287/289 that was NOT within spec if it had not been "mishandled"

author: elex_enthusiast
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 09:45:12 am
content: Quote from: kaz911 on February 27, 2014, 09:17:16 amwell the problem is i cant find any fluke service center here in Philippines..so im thinking the best thing to do is to replace the cap myself just like others did..i love my fluke but i hate the way it consumes the battery

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 10:36:28 am
content: Quote from: elex_enthusiast on February 27, 2014, 09:45:12 amAre you sure the cap is bad, the 28x is a battery hog even with a good cap?Mine was drawing something like 10mA when powered off, if you have the means you might test yours. If you look back in this thread there is a spec, in the uA is what it should draw when working correctly.

author: kaz911
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 10:53:05 am
content: Quote from: elex_enthusiast on February 27, 2014, 09:45:12 amI handed mine into a distributor - not Fluke direct. So any distributor can verify warranty recallsMine has been off to Holland for repair as the local guys does not do any repairs. All at no cost to me.

author: kaz911
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 10:56:22 am
content: and the quick way to check CAP problem - put in new batteries - check time and date is fine. Leave on for a couple of minutes. Shut it down. Remove the batteries - count to 10 - plug batteries back in. If it asks for time/date - you have a super-cap issue.

author: elex_enthusiast
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 12:20:05 pm
content: yes it does ask to reset the time/date..Quote from: dr.diesel on February 27, 2014, 10:36:28 amunfortunately i have no other reliable meter i can use to measure its current draw but im pretty sure the cap is bad..

author: Excavatoree
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 01:03:47 pm
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on November 05, 2013, 08:32:21 pmGreat. I tried to order the Elna part to replace my capacitor (small type, like Mike's picture above) and Digi-Key and Mouser are out of stock.The Panasonic part is only available in quantities of 2000 or more.Are those the only choices?For the larger cap used in the 189 and 89-V, is the parts situation any better? I may have missed it, but I haven't seen any recommended part numbers to replace this one.Do I need to unsolder it and check underneath, or would leakage be visible from the top?Maybe I'll make a Wiki page about this to summarize all the information and ask Dave to add it.

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 03:00:14 pm
content: Have the same problem.

author: tsmith35
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 07:10:33 pm
content: Quote from: Excavatoree on February 27, 2014, 01:03:47 pmJust get this instead:http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/DSK-3R3H224U-HL/604-1020-1-ND/970232Very slightly taller, but with 0.22F instead of the original 0.20F, and same footprint as the original.

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2014, 08:00:15 pm
content: Quote from: tsmith35 on February 27, 2014, 07:10:33 pmWhy not this?http://export.farnell.com/taiyo-yuden/pas414hr-va5r/cap-super-60000uf-3-3v-smd/dp/2112777

author: tsmith35
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 01:19:45 am
content: Quote from: sotos on February 27, 2014, 08:00:15 pm60000uf is only .06F, about 30% as much capacitance as the original.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 02:04:59 am
content: Quote from: Excavatoree on February 27, 2014, 01:03:47 pmWhats wrong with the CDE cap that I proposed earlier at post #38 ? DK part no 338-3477-ND and its available.Panasonic cap is not even in the same league when it comes to reliability and long term life compared to this one.Though you will need to bend it's pin to fit in the foot print, but not a big deal imo.

author: Excavatoree
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 03:47:31 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on February 28, 2014, 02:04:59 amAh, I forgot. That's one reason I thought it might be better to put a summary of such information in one place. When it's spread out over several pages in a thread, things can get lost.

author: elex_enthusiast
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 04:04:29 am
content: Quote from: tsmith35 on February 28, 2014, 01:19:45 am60000uf is only .06F, about 30% as much capacitance as the original.will it affect the performance of the meter? i have the same cap stocked on my bin and i thought of using it to replace the bad cap on my meter..

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 05:03:08 am
content: Quote from: elex_enthusiast on February 28, 2014, 04:04:29 amNo, that cap's purpose is just as a backup power for the dmm's clock & calendar during the batteries swapping period.Not a very serious problem imo, especially you rarely use the logging feature.Just make sure the new replacement cap has low leakage, other wise it will drain the batteries powereven its powered off, as the example of the original cap does when its deteriorated.

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 05:46:52 am
content: I think it’s not a problem to leave it out, if you don’t need the clock and calendar when swapping batteries.

author: elex_enthusiast
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 06:05:44 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on February 28, 2014, 05:03:08 amyeah i seldom use its logging feature..i only use the meter to measure parameters of the projects im working in my bench..i just want to be sure that replacing the bad cap with a lower capacitance wont affect the performance of my meter since i dont have any reference service manual..does anyone here did the same thing??i was wondering why fluke didnt use a standard CMOS batterry instead of those shitty caps to back-up the date/time of the meter.. does it makes any difference?

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2014, 10:36:26 am
content: The cap has no effect on meter performance. It only holds the date/time/backlight settings, no cal data.

author: t95mwp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 27, 2014, 10:02:30 pm
content: Hi folks,I replaced mine capacitor on 189 after it died and never come back alive. Anything else known wrong with this meter,yes I installed capacitor right and new fresh batteries. Thanks

author: elex_enthusiast
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 07:05:47 am
content: Quote from: dr.diesel on February 28, 2014, 10:36:26 amindeed.. i have replaced mine with a 0.06F bnew cap and it worked fine..thanks for the advice..this time the date/clock remains after i remove the battery for 10-15 sec...

author: elex_enthusiast
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2014, 07:10:33 am
content: Quote from: t95mwp on March 27, 2014, 10:02:30 pmmaybe the supercap is not an issue with your dmm..have you checked the board..?

author: Marvin
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 09:16:42 am
content: This is interesting - I received my brand new 289 with manufacturer date of 30. Sept 2013 and it has calibration count of 2! It was not 100% official channel but a reliable seller from eBay and it really looks like it was brand new in box - and the box serial/manufacturing date stickers and all match. Could it be that it was manufactured on that date and then when the capacitor issue became public a week later they already refitted the fix in it or this is just some strange coincidence it coming out of factory with 2 calibrations? Can't open it up to see the soldering on the capacitor as the case is closed with a tamperproof sticker and I don't want to invalidate it.Got to love friends who visit USA once and a while and agree to bring stuff over the pond in their bags

author: t95mwp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 03:12:09 pm
content: Quote from: elex_enthusiast on March 29, 2014, 07:10:33 amIt was bad definitely,it started with would not turn on all the time and by changing batteries would fix the problem for the while then finally died.Board is super clean no damage of leaking and I installed new capacitor that was purchased form digi-key and recommended here on the board.

author: smoothtalker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 03:47:35 pm
content: Quote from: Marvin on April 01, 2014, 09:16:42 amyour best bet is to check with fluke directly! email them the serial number.Anyway i don't think the super capacitor affects the cal. it's job is just to retain the dates etc as mentioned previously.

author: Marvin
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 04:14:01 pm
content: If you open the case it is instant calibration void (technically that is, of course if you have a new sticker etc you can close it and put a new sticker on it) - that's what I'm thinking - the manufacturing date on the box match the calibration date in the unit but the count is 2. Maybe they opened it before sending it out and fixed something? So it is officially factory calibrated but 2 times.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 04:57:36 pm
content: Marvin, an intriguing new Fluke 289 with 2 cal counts.Any chance taking the photo of the tamper proof seal, or does it look similar to thisexample here, and also whats the firmware version it has in there ?

author: Marvin
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 05:18:12 pm
content: Here you go. I bought the cable too and changed the owner name if you are wondering if it came like that - nope.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 05:36:13 pm
content: Marvin, thanks for the photos, looks legit to me, and its also has the latest firmware too.Pretty sure its also came with the Fluke's factory calibration paper that has the exact date printed as in your meter info, right ? Example from my 287 ->HERE.Well, at least you still have quite some time before the cap start to poosince its quite new, congratulation, enjoy that good DMM.PS : Suggesting NOT to use alkaline cells as it will leak as it happened to mine, good NiMH cells work just fine like Eneloop.

author: Marvin
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 05:38:21 pm
content: Yes, just like that. Only added LoZ and LoOhm measurements. Date/serial matches.

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 08:48:38 pm
content: Interesting that yours shows 96% memory like other people reported. Mine shows 100% but I think I have the supercap problem since it loses the date and time each time I change batteries. It also drains batteries fast until it shows only two bars and then stays there (have eneloops now). I don't know if a problem supercap increases current drain

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 09:09:40 pm
content: Quote from: casinada on April 01, 2014, 08:48:38 pmYes, a shorted cap will contribute to battery drain. Mine would be completely dead in about a week without use on Alkaline batts.

author: TVman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 09:15:56 pm
content: You need to replace that capacitor!Otherwise it will beforever!

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 09:19:36 pm
content: dr Diesel,Did you repair it yourself or sent it to Fluke?I purchased mine second hand.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 10:20:17 pm
content: Quote from: t95mwp on April 01, 2014, 03:12:09 pmCheck the battery contact strips to make sure they are making contact with the pcb. You might have bent them while putting the back cover on?See modemhead's pictures here.http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/wp-content/gallery/f189_00/F189_026.JPGIf they seem okay, see if the PCB is getting any voltage from the 4 AA batteries?

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2014, 10:54:26 pm
content: Quote from: casinada on April 01, 2014, 09:19:36 pmYup replaced myself, no need to wait weeks/months for Fluke and a $2 part, took 2 minutes.Disclaimer, you'll likely void your warranty if there is any left. If you search back on this thread I posted the Digikey part number I used.

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2014, 05:02:09 am
content: Got RMA for my Fluke 289 today. I'm shipping to Everett Washington tomorrow. They said that turnaround is 5 days, I can live with that. Never sent a unit to Fluke before, I want to see what happens.

author: tsmith35
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2014, 10:57:49 am
content: Casinada, units I've sent in to them in the past were cleaned and calibrated. They have pretty nice service.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2014, 11:21:15 am
content: Casinada, what type of damage did you claim at the RMA declaration ? Just bad cap ?Too bad its sealed, really curious what type of cap Fluke used for the replacement.

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2014, 01:14:22 am
content: I sent the Fluke 289 on April 2nd and they shipped it back on April 17th. I should be getting it back sometime next week.I called and told them that the each time I changed the batteries I had to reset the time and date and that it was draining the batteries faster than normal otherwise the DMM was working great. It must be something very common as they didn't ask any questions and generated an RMA. Originally they told me that the turnaround was 5 business days but when I called Tech support on Tuesday they told me that the backlog was around four weeks. I'll report further when I get the unit back. So far the service has been top notch.

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 12:33:08 am
content: I got the Repaired Fluke 289 today:Service detail:Problem description: Does not hold time, drains battery.Repair description: Diagnosis: confirmed the problemReplaced C145, Ready for calThe calibration was verified with a Fluke 5520A Calibrator and found in tolerance.They sent a calibration certificate but without valuesOverall great service

author: tsmith35
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2014, 03:30:16 am
content: Well, C145 is the supercap, so that solves that.Looks like you got a nice turnaround time. Glad to hear it worked out for you.

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2014, 03:52:18 am
content: Hi,I can report two DIY fixes of Fluke 289s.Unit 1Symptoms: unit works fine, all reading correct, kills the batteries in a few days, even if switched off.Findings:Measured current consumption around 30 mA when off. Removed the CAP C145, off current dropped to 45uAConnected C145 to power supply, set 3.3V with mA meter in series. Test confirmed bad supercap.Fix: Replaced the super capacitor with Panasonic Coin Super Capacitor 0.33F 5.5V EEC-S0HD334H(This is larger than the original but it can be made to fit)Unit 2Symptoms: unit works fine, all reading correct, loses time and data if batteries are removed for about 10 minutesFindings:Measured current consumption around 2 mA when off. Removed the CAP C145, off current dropped to 45uAConnected C145 to power supply, set 3.3V with mA meter in series. Test confirmed bad supercap.Fix: Replaced the super capacitor with Panasonic Coin Super Capacitor 0.33F 5.5V EEC-S0HD334H(This is larger than the original but it can be made to fit)I think that Panasonic was optimistic in rating the original part at 3.3V. Typical values are 2.7V for a single capacitor and 5.5V for the parts that internally have two capacitors in series.Unit 3This is a unit that I purchased new and has very few hours of use. The current consumption of this meter was 45uA when off.Regards,Jay_Diddy_B

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2014, 05:30:12 am
content: Good job Jay.Why didn't you send them to Fluke? At least they do a Calibration verification after the repair.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2014, 07:26:34 am
content: Quote from: Jay_Diddy_B on May 13, 2014, 03:52:18 amWow .. 30mA !!!!Those darn cap are sucking the batteries power so bad even the meter is turned off, I guess they will be sucked dried in days.Btw, did you measure the capacitance of those goo oozing bad caps ? How much left ?JDB, thanks for reporting this.

author: xwarp
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2014, 07:58:23 am
content: Quote from: Jay_Diddy_B on May 13, 2014, 03:52:18 amWhat had to be done for the new cap to be made to fit?If this cap is nothing more than being used to keep the time in memory for the time it takes to replace batteries, then can a lower voltage be used if the size is closer to the original?

author: WVL_KsZeN
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2014, 08:03:44 am
content: Never use a lower voltage, only a lower capacity. Actually, you want to use a cap with a higher voltage to make it last longer.

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2014, 10:51:03 am
content: Quote from: casinada on May 13, 2014, 05:30:12 amSeveral reasons:1) I am not the original owner. The new one which has not failed (yet?) is mine from new. One of the used units is mine the other belongs to a friend.2) I want to see if the meters had the problem reported here.3) The super capacitor does not impact calibration.4) It was quicker to fix than return to Fluke.5) If Fluke replaced C145 with the same part, the problem will return.6) I can do a performance check, I can't call it a calibration because my equipment has not been calibrated recently. I have the following:Fluke 5101B - Multifunction calibratorFluke 732A - DC Voltage standardDatron 1281 - 8.5 digit meterFluke would like to find them out of calibration, so they can charge you for a calibration.7) I have no reason to believe that the meters were out of calibration.To xwarpI will post a picture the next time I have it apart. It is quite easy, you trim the leads and solder the thru-hole part to the SMD pads.To BravoV,I did not measure the capacitance of the bad caps, they was so much leakage current it would be hard to do. If I had to, I would measure the discharge time with a resistive load. But these caps were dead, expired, permanently damaged, useless, beyond hope...I think that this is correct:for two fixed 289sRegards,Jay_Diddy_B

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2014, 04:37:56 am
content: Thank you for Replying Jay,I purchased mine used and they never asked me anything but the serial number of the unit. As soon as I told them the problem they issued an RMA.I'm sure they know what is going on with the supercap so they're probably using a better part (don't know because it has the stickers now so I don't want to open it). Every time they open an instrument for repair they do a calibration if necessary. On my 289 they plugged it to a 5520A and it was still within specifications. I wonder how they test temperature and capacitance.I'm trying to repair a Fluke 5102B...progress is very slow. It would help to have the extender boards. There are lots of revisions of this calibratorI try to repair everything myself but in this case sending the unit to Fluke was part of the experience

author: quarks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2014, 01:00:51 pm
content: Quote from: casinada on May 14, 2014, 04:37:56 amIf you look in the calibration manual (page 16-17) you findif you do not have a calibrator you can just look at a Type K data table and try to simulate the Input Voltages:0°C = 0V100°C = 4,09623mV1000°C = 41,27561mVand for capacitance verification they only check one value (5nF see page 19)

author: Excavatoree
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2014, 12:18:26 pm
content: Quote from: casinada on May 14, 2014, 04:37:56 amI doubt they'd repair my 189-II, however. It's pretty obvious I'm not the original owner. I suppose I could get a 287 LCD mask for it, but I suspect the serial number is flagged as well.However, I could be wrong. Has anyone tried it?

author: casinada
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2014, 06:07:42 pm
content: Excavatoree,Just Call and open a Ticket. They will ask for your name, address, email, serial number.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2014, 07:03:14 pm
content: Quote from: casinada on May 15, 2014, 06:07:42 pm@Excavatoree, identify yourself as the owner of the staircase Fluke photo. That might buy you some goodwill?

author: tsmith35
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2014, 01:14:19 am
content: Quote from: retiredcaps on May 15, 2014, 07:03:14 pmWow, just looked it up...stairway to heaven?

author: malgailany
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 28, 2014, 12:39:51 am
content: Excavatoree,I wrote my experience with fluke, check it outhttp://mjlorton.com/forum/index.php?topic=531.msg4429#msg4429Cheers!

author: tsmith35
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2014, 05:45:37 am
content: Quote from: malgailany on June 28, 2014, 12:39:51 amWow, that's pretty cool. Looks like a new meter.

author: ivaylo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2014, 07:08:11 am
content: Just got mine back too. Same thing, back cover replaced, calibrated, they even put fresh batteries. Haven't looked inside yet, but now these stories about replacing PCBs and all are tempting me to peel the seal... Very good experience over all!

author: malgailany
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 30, 2014, 08:01:30 pm
content: I'm interested in knowing the differences between board ID1 and board ID3. I took some photos to my old board (ID1) before I send it to service.I don't want to peel my sticker to look inside. It would be nice if someones share photos for board ID3.

author: erazor
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 18, 2014, 06:44:06 am
content: I have an issue with the clock drifting in my Fluke 289, see here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-289-clock-drift/User retiredcaps suggested this might be related to this capacitor issue. To see if this is in fact the case, maybe a user could check behaviour before and after capacitor replacement. Thanks.

author: Crazyasianskillz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 25, 2014, 10:11:49 pm
content: Sorry to start up an old thread, but I'm considering purchasing a new fluke 287 from an authorized dealer. Does anyone know if fluke has resolved the leaky cap issue in 2014 builds?

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2014, 10:35:34 pm
content: Quote from: Crazyasianskillz on December 25, 2014, 10:11:49 pmNo change or resolution has been reported.

author: Crazyasianskillz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 26, 2014, 04:01:23 pm
content: I gave fluke tech support a call this morning inquiring about this issue. They claimed that this issue had been handled and that newer meters should not have this issue. Can anyone confirm this? I'm going to go ahead with the purchase. Im planning to use this for microcontroller development and msic tasks around the house and garage.

author: JoeO
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2014, 04:36:33 pm
content: Quote from: Crazyasianskillz on December 26, 2014, 04:01:23 pmWhat did Fluke mean by "newer meters". Call them back and ask for the serial number that the fix was put in.Then when you buy a meter, ask them for the serial number of the meter.There is no other way to guarantee that you will receive a "fixed" meter unless you do this.

author: Crazyasianskillz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 26, 2014, 05:56:42 pm
content: I asked when the changed was implemented but couldn't get any additional information. The only description that was given was that it was "handled and should not be an issue anymore". However I received a follow up email from info-fluke@fluke.com claiming it was the first time the tech had heard of the leaking capacitor issue and had no database record. The disparity in the responses is a little concerting.I'll do a check to see what the current draw is when the unit is powered down.From what I've seen it appears the nominal draw should be in the micro amp range, if it's in the milli range then the unit would most likely be affected. I'm ordering the unit off of amazon prime so hopefully they stock newer built units.I'm hoping my incoming unit isn't affected, but they do come with a lifetime warranty just in case. I've got a 189 unit on my bench at work and doesn't appear to have symptoms. I'd just like my personal meter to be flawless as well.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2014, 06:42:45 pm
content: Quote from: Crazyasianskillz on December 26, 2014, 05:56:42 pmIt is not surprising to hear that Fluke support personnel don't know about the issue or that you are getting conflicting answers.QuoteYou should check to make sure Amazon is an authorized Fluke dealer because there was controversy about that in the past.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/amazon-con-is-not-a-fluke-authorized-reseller/You should read the fineprint regarding lifetime warranty in the 289 manual. The word lifetime doesn't mean lifetime in the way an ordinary person would interpret it.In addition, Danaher needs to make money long term in order to actually be around to provide "lifetime" warranty.

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2014, 10:13:15 pm
content: My story with the meter.After I’ve read the forum, I opened mine and found the capacitor leaking. I desoldered it and ordered this one,http://www.digikey.com/productsearch/en?vendor=0&keywords=EDLRD224as per Reply #38 on this forum.When it came I didn’t have time to change it so I left it over. The meter hadn’t the capacitor in as people around here, claimed it is only for time and date so I didn’t care. But when I needed it I powered it up, a very short message notified me about memory- time, something like that (it was fast to make a notice) and then died.It never started up again. Because I had to continue I left it, and continued with another meter. After 3-5 days I had time to look at the meter, the meter was dead, I measured the batteries to find out that they were also completely dead.Wow I said I found the problem so I changed the batteries, nothing at all, the meter was dead even the power switch did not respond, turning itself green. Again I left it, Next day, searched for the problem to find that the new batteries were completely dead at 0,5 volts. Something was draining them completely.So I soldered the capacitor back and as it has a limited lifetime guarantee I sent it to my local distributor mentioning that the meter is completely dead, he took it and sent it the fluke service agent. 2 months later the meter arrived back full functional, calibrated and stickers around the meter.No charge, meter has a limited lifetime guarantee, so why try it yourselves? Just send it back.IMG_9835bysotron100, on FlickrIMG_0591bysotron100, on FlickrIMG_0407bysotron100, on Flickr

author: kitaismith
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 09:48:39 am
content: Just opened my Fluke 287 as well, lo and behold I have it too..:I called the service center 01603256620, they told me they are not aware such a problem existed and further more, since the capacitoris corroded it is not longer under warranty. To add salt to the wound, the lady on the phone added that it'll take about £240 for it to be repaired.....I asked her to repeat that like about 5 times..I've fired off an email to the UKServiceDesk@fluke.com explaining the situation and what I've just been told, still waiting for reply.So we'll see how it goes...

author: Ericho
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 12:00:10 pm
content: QuoteThere goes the extra money you pay for warranty, service and quality. FlukeI'm not gonna bother with them, Its takes less time to fix it myself then 1 Phone call with them of a visit to the local shop.

author: kitaismith
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 05:34:52 pm
content: Yeah...I know it would've been easy to repair it myself but since it should be under warranty and doing it myself will void the warranty , I might as well use it (in theory at least).Anyways, I got a reply back from the email I sent out..:QuoteI filled out the attached RMA form, emailed it back to them and they've emailed a Service Order Form to me. That'll be included with the multimeterwhen I send it back.All in all, looks like they've decided to do the right thing and to be honest, apart from the lady I spoke to earlier on the phone, the guys I emailed about it got everything sortedreal quick so I'm gonna reserve my judgement till everything's sorted.I'll send it back tomorrow and keep you guys posted.

author: mjlorton
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2015, 08:11:13 pm
content: Fluke respond to the issue of corrosion of the capacitor on the Fluke 287/289:Original video (2 January 2014) - T4D #88 - Fluke multimeters with leaking / corroded surface mount supercap:On Forum:http://mjlorton.com/forum/index.php?topic=531.30Fluke email:On 4/16/2015 11:22 AM, Wright, Dan wrote: Hello MartinI’ve done some investigating on the issue of the Fluke 287/289 and the corrosion of the capacitor. Our team has looked in to this at length and arrived at the following:# Yes, there are instances where the capacitor is showing visible sign of discoloration, corrosion and what may be described as “leakage.”# Yes, this is an issue that will be addressed in the next design and production update taking place next month.# Despite the visual signs, there is no degradation to the performance of the meter. The component in question provides backup power to the internal clock and should it fail, the only thing affected will be time and date settings after a battery change.# If a user finds that the component has made the meter unusable, the user should contact a Fluke Service Center so the product can be evaluated.Best regardsDan

author: shane124
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 03, 2015, 03:53:36 am
content: Just replaced the bad cap in my 289. Not very difficult and works great!Used the one from Digikey 338-3477-ND. MFG# EDLRD224H3R6C 220MF3.6V.Bought it used. Est. Around 2009 Model. (The meter).

author: Gonzakpo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 24, 2015, 04:21:40 pm
content: Any news about this issue? I'm considering buying the 287 but this is kind of a showstopper. I mean, the only reason I want to buy a Fluke it's because its reliability. But if that is gone... then maybe I should be looking somewhere else.

author: dadler
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2015, 06:12:41 pm
content: Has anyone had this actually affect the performance of their meter?

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2015, 06:21:41 pm
content: If Fluke says it doesn't affect the meter, I would tend to believe it. Does it look good that they won't replace the thousands of bad looking components? I think it hurts their reputation a bit but I wouldn't worry about it. Leave it until/if it causes a problem and they will fix it then.

author: Jay_Diddy_B
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2015, 02:10:15 am
content: Quote from: dadler on May 24, 2015, 06:12:41 pmI had the problem on two meters. It did not effect the measurement accuracy. It impact the life of the AA batteries. I posted my experience in this message:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-189-with-leaking-surface-mount-coin-cell/msg443374/#msg443374Regards,Jay_Diddy_B

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2015, 02:27:25 am
content: My guess is the supercap is used for the Real Time Clock. It allows the RTC to survive the battery change. I am assuming RTC is important for the data logging feature.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2015, 06:21:21 am
content: Martin's latest video has some of the feedback and discussions he had with Fluke at the 26 to 30 minute mark regarding the IR and super capacitor.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2015, 06:29:48 am
content: One of my co-workers back on the late 90s used to work for Boing (unmanned vehicle Dark Star) he told me that they used to get rain inside their buildings

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2015, 07:38:02 pm
content: Quote from: miguelvp on May 29, 2015, 06:29:48 amReminds me when I was in training, and the only room available was the one with the big half roof skylight. Good thing was it was the dry season, and I put in a fan heater on a time switch, to heat the room for 2 hours before we came back, and to turn off when we left in the morning. Was interesting to be able to do astronomy from my bed at night. Was not fun though that the showers invariably had no hot water, especially as it was winter in Pretoria. Used to wake up at 2AM to go to a shower and have that hot shower luxury. Plus was the mains was always between 250 and 265V, due to the area having legacy 250VAC mains transformers, dating from the early days of electrification in South Africa, in the supply, and harmonising the area to 220V was considered too expensive in replacing all of them simultaneously. Great for heating, though lights had a really short but brilliant life.

author: firehopper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2015, 05:52:33 pm
content: I have a fluke 289 with the rusty looking cap, it wont hold time or date when you pull the batteries. so what should I do? replace it myself or send it in..

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2015, 06:02:32 pm
content: Quote from: firehopper on June 08, 2015, 05:52:33 pmIf you are the original owner and bought it from an authorized Fluke dealer, I suggest sending it in for the following reasons:1) you might get a complete new pcb with the latest modifications and firmware2) you are likely to have the 289 (either repaired or new pcb) with its calibration checked for "free"3) shipping within the USA even with a tracking number should be a reasonable $10 to FlukeThe calibration check normally costs between $50 to $100 and you get it back knowing it is within its accuracy specifications across all ranges.

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2015, 07:00:04 pm
content: I agree with retiredcaps. When I tried to change mine it got bricked, I had to send it to the service center and after the repair it was also calibrated, for free.

author: firehopper
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 08, 2015, 11:48:25 pm
content: I'm not the original owner.. I bought it used off ebay. I did register the serial number on flukes website, on fluke's advice. so no idea if I should still send it back, like I said remove batteries and it forgets time and date.Quote from: retiredcaps on June 08, 2015, 06:02:32 pm

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2015, 05:14:28 am
content: If you are not the original owner, then Fluke, technically, has no obligation to fix it under warranty for you.Here are the options that I see.1) If the date and time setting are not required, just ignore the problem and leave the capacitor as is. Alternatively, you can remove the capacitor and the unit will function fine. Note, I can't remember if it is in this thread or this model, but at least one person who removed the capacitor couldn't get the meter to power on again. So there is a non zero chance of screwing something up if you are not careful (lift a solder pad, short something out, zap components/pcb with ESD, etc).2) Fluke built its service reputation in the past, as reported here and in other forums, by providing fantastic service to the customer. Sometimes, but not all, the service centre will fix the problem regardless of the terms and condition of the warranty for free.So you could take a chance and send it to Fluke (make sure you get a tracking number + insurance) for around $10 USD and see if Fluke will fix it under warranty and ignore the fact that you bought it from ebay second hand. It is my understanding, and you should confirm by talking to a customer service representative, that if you do not qualify for warranty repair that Fluke will contact you with an $$ estimate to fix your meter. Then you can decide if the price is reasonable or not. If you choose not to get it fixed due to cost, then Fluke will send it back to you unrepaired. I believe Fluke will pay return shipping so at most you are out the original shipping costs.Again, you may want to talk and verify with a Fluke customer service representative. If you choose the second option, please report back so we know the outcome.PS. I am well aware of negative posts about Fluke customer service. I find that by talkingnicelyto a person and treat them the way you expect to be treated, that you will get a lot better result.

author: Kibi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 09, 2015, 12:41:37 pm
content: Quote from: retiredcaps on June 09, 2015, 05:14:28 amI totally agree that good manners will get you a long way.However, politeness and good manners don't get you anywhere with Fluke UK. Their representatives are polite, well mannered and sound professional. I treat them over the telephone as they treat me, but unfortunately that is the last you hear from them. They never once got back to me about my spare parts request on any of the three occasions that I telephoned their service centre. I also sent the same request over email, but I got no response either. In my opinion, this is very poor service on the part of Fluke UK.Hopefully their other branches provide a better service.I went elsewhere and then got my parts within days.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2015, 06:50:39 pm
content: Quote from: Kibi on June 09, 2015, 12:41:37 pmMy professional experience/industry is not the T&M so I don't know how it works in T&M, but when I call a company for help, I'm usually assigned a case number. That case isn't closed until I say so.In the past coule of years, I have made contact with Fluke Canada and Extech USA. Neither provided me with a case number. Without a case number, I have no way to escalate to a supervisor and when I get passed onto another customer service representative, there is no history or case notes.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2015, 05:44:15 pm
content: Quote from: retiredcaps on June 09, 2015, 05:14:28 am@firehopper, see this thread wrt to above comments.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-287(9)-leaking-super-cap/msg692664/#msg692664

author: D. Head
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2015, 06:10:25 pm
content: Hello Everyone,this is what the supercap from my Fluke 289 looks like.Is this "bad" enough to send it back to Fluke?(i live in the area of Eindhoven)Thanks

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2015, 07:30:10 pm
content: Quote from: D. Head on August 13, 2015, 06:10:25 pmThe cap is supposed to keep time and date. If you take the batteries out and it doesn't properly keep time and date, then you would have a valid claim for warranty service (free). Take a look at my post 225 above again for why you might want to send it in.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 07:57:22 pm
content: Quote from: retiredcaps on August 13, 2015, 07:30:10 pmI dont recall from the manual how much time it supposed to hold the time and date settings? wanna see how is my unit holding up without taking it apart

author: dr.diesel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2015, 08:10:21 pm
content: Measure the parasitic power draw. When mine went bad it was almost 10mA, lost the time/date instantly if batteries removed.

author: Muttley Snickers
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 08:14:24 am
content: The super capacitor in my 289 looks a little bit crusty but the meter still seems to work well and I have listed the current consumption details below for reference. I recently opened and inspected my 189 again and it is still in immaculate condition in relation to the super capacitor, I have owned this meter since brand new and as mentioned elsewhere on the forum I religiously remove the batteries after each use and have always done so.Fluke 289 Current ConsumptionPower Off, Logged for 20 mins.....32uAPower On, Ohms Open, BL Off......22mAPower On, Ohms Open, BL Low......36mAPower On, Ohms Open, BL High......56mAFirmware Version 1.12/V0.88 (Now upgraded to 1.16)Calibration Date: 25/07/2010. Calibration Count: 1. Board ID: 1.

author: Fonnesbek
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 23, 2015, 11:16:03 am
content: HiI have just replaced the super cap in my 189 I also have a 289 but the cap looked ok in that, so I will not change it at this moment.I replaced the cap with a EDLRD224H3R6C which I got from amazon.co.ukhttp://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B017V3X02S?ref_=pe_385721_37038051_TE_3p_dp_1It can properly be bought cheaper but shipping rate and time was an important factor.I have attached a few pictures of the replacement, the last one is of the super cap in my 289./Fonnesbek

author: Helix70
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 13, 2016, 04:09:22 am
content: My 287 supercap failed in a different way to most on here. Mine won't hold charge. I took it out, attached it to 3.3V and it immediately jumped to 3.3V drawing 40uA. This current slowly decays over about 2 minutes until it hits about 3uA. I set the meter to >10G input impedance and disconnected the supply, and in 5 seconds the voltage on the supercap dropped to about 2V, then 1.8V after 30 seconds, drawing < 0.02uA.Needless to say, the meter did not hold date and time, and the corrosion on mine was minimal (ignore the flux on the leads, I put that there).

author: toni31
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2016, 08:58:19 pm
content: I'm considering purchasing a new fluke 287 from an authorized dealerdoes anyone know if fluke has resolved the leaky cap issue

author: Helix70
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 21, 2016, 12:37:04 am
content: All fixed. Got a 0.1F supercap from RS - a Kemet FCS0H104ZFTBR24. Cost $4 for two delivered.I had to snip the lower left plastic corner off to make it fit around the SOT23 part, otherwise it fit very neatly. The shroud fits over it without issues.Tried it for 15 minutes without batteries, all ok. Hopefully with the increased voltage rating this one won't die or leak!

author: hansibull
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2016, 09:44:55 pm
content: I just desoldered this 0.33F 5V Matsushita super cap from some almost-unused equipment. Can/Should I just whack this in, or should I get one that's almost identical to the original one. And how about the polarity, what is + and what is - on the PCB?

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 23, 2016, 11:44:22 am
content: A recent purchase of a 289 view from the inside, looks like they have redesigned the board a little and the Cap has been replaced by a battery??

author: Daruosha
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2017, 04:56:11 pm
content: I just found this thread and wondered what is your PCB rev? I purchased two fluke 289 and production date of the first one is 2015 and the other one is 2016.Anyone would suggest to break the warranty and tear them apart for further inspection?

author: evava
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2017, 12:40:05 pm
content: Hello everyone,I also got Fluke 289 from ebay lately.And I have got two questions:1. when changing batteries, it actually "holds" time (and date), by which I mean time (and date) "freezes" until new batteries are put in and then time runs again from the point where I removed batteries, but delay remains.So, it "holds" time, but time is not running forward when batteries are not in the meter - is it OK?Or is it supposed that time counter continues when batteries are removed?(comsumption when meter is off is about 50uAmps, which is OK probably)2. on Lo Ohm (50 Ohms) range, with shorted input posts, readings slowly decreases from about 60 ohms to the 0 Ohms during ten (fifteen) seconds and through 0 Ohms continues to the minus Ohms readings slowly and still very slowly increases minus Ohms readings, just like in that videoand maybe never stops completely (it is not my movie nor mine instrument but the same symptom).If it is normal behaviour, then it seems to me that 50 Ohm range is not any good?Or is my meter broken?

author: todd_fuller
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2017, 01:13:30 am
content: I recently acquired a Fluke 287/FVF and was quite curious if this was something I needed to be worried about. This was purchased from Amazon. Serial # 3567XXXX, 7/16 build date, rev 17 board.As others show, cap is now replaced with a battery.Off-topic: anyone know if the J5 header is is the UART to the IR? It would be interesting to add a BT module here.

author: M. András
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2017, 07:35:47 pm
content: measured my 289 in stanby today. consumes over 600uA as my testo clamp says OL back to a chinese meter it says 650uA if you can belive to them in terms of accuracy, the was bought back in 2012 so its still well within warranty, will see what the distributor says in the next days

author: serggio
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2017, 09:12:00 pm
content: My 287 after replacing super caps consumed 26,5 uA (238 uW) in standby (OFF) mode.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2017, 12:58:40 am
content: Both 189 and 289 have the ongoing cRapacitor problem which I cleaned up with some isoholand may swap out one day when I get the right part and patience to do without killing it(since Fluke in Oz want receipts n s***, to verify first ownership to fix a -FLUKE PROBLEM- for an 'unimportant' long time loyal Fluke customer)Strangely enough, the battery life on both has been great for over 6 months now, on or off, backlight on, logging stuff etc just using ANY weird name brand cheapiesi.e. same set of cheap batteries going well for 6 months, and no leaks yet.Am I lucky, or 6 months use on a set of cheapies is no big deal?I haven't been removing or blocking the batteries either btw (lazy, forgetful, busy, whatever) and the meters are still going fineThe math is that 5 or 6 dollars in total to swap out twice a year on batteries for each feature packed meter sounds like a good deal,and may be beat any leakage happening too if doing so every 6 months

author: Dwaine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2017, 05:18:31 am
content: Yeah, I think your right about the header being for the IR. Slap in a Bluetooth and the device could be used better for data logging.

author: serggio
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2017, 08:11:20 am
content: Quote from: Dwaine on May 28, 2017, 05:18:31 amAnd for internal noise tooOr you'll do completely EMI testing with all Bluetooth module's modes? Or will changing firmware for sending "sleep" signal for bluetooth module?

author: Helix70
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 28, 2017, 08:13:50 am
content: http://www.fluke.com/fluke/auen/accessories/wireless-accessories/fluke-ir3000-fc.htm?pid=78550

author: serggio
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2017, 08:35:32 am
content: Quote from: VK5RC on November 23, 2016, 11:44:22 amNew one revision 017 is pretty interesting... If this is real battery, how long it will support memory without main batteries installed in meter? What will happening when backup battery will completely dead? They will change battery or entire PCB?For super caps mentioned time for keeping data without main batteries installed on meter is about 4 hour.Also for super capacitors shelf life time is about from 1000 h to several years.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2017, 08:57:57 am
content: Quote from: serggio on May 28, 2017, 08:35:32 amThis is Fluke's job to solve and FIX FOR FREE -UNCONDITIONALLY- FORANY OWNER,look at the LUDICROUS prices they charge for decent meterswith SILLY problemsthat DON'T always need a board replacement and a 'yeah it works' -calibration-

author: serggio
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2017, 09:06:28 am
content: So other manufactures do not have problem with super caps?Yes, Fluke offering "lifetime" warranty and probably will solve problem. Past PCB revisions for 280 series used Panasonic EN series supercaps with just 500h shelf lifethis series has been discounted by Panasonic.Probably best way is using battery that will able changed by customer. I do not see any reason for using battery soldered directly to PCB.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2017, 09:14:44 am
content: Quote from: serggio on May 28, 2017, 09:06:28 amBRAVO!this is EXACTLY what I believe too.It is SHEERDUMBASSto replace one SOLDERED leaking component with another SOLDERED soon to leak battery component inside an overpriced CAT 111/1V meter !!!that may do WORSE DAMAGE in the future,usually ONE DAY after the lifetime warranty has ENDED.Whoever pays the bills and wages at Fluke needs to word up the engineers YESTERDAYto look inside their CAD computersand check out the'user replaceable'BIOS backup battery arrangement on the main board,that's been in use across TWO CENTURIES of consumer electronics!!!!!!

author: serggio
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2017, 12:10:25 pm
content: Quote from: Electro Detective on May 28, 2017, 09:14:44 amIt's not BIOSRTC and probably temp offset, contrast and some user variables.http://media.fluke.com/documents/287-289_mveng0200.pdfTo be honestly, I do not see big problem with super capacitor except of shorting life of batteries. Even if you do not have warranty, you can easy to replace it oneself. I replaced super caps in my meter oneself just for save my time.At any case they have new revision for PCB, let's see what will going on with

author: Dwaine
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2017, 01:30:55 pm
content: That's true. The existing separate Bluetooth module really nice.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2017, 10:02:30 pm
content: Quote from: serggio on May 28, 2017, 12:10:25 pmMy point was to put a shake proof secured 'user replaceable battery' rather than a stupid leaky underated cRapacitor or dumbass soldered in battery that may leak too,whose insides may be half fried by the soldering process to help along the inevitable.-is not rocket science-

author: Tim5000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2017, 09:03:08 pm
content: Hello all,I recently discovered my Fluke 189 had a leaking supercap. It also struggled a little turning on sometimes (may or may not be related).I was aware of this thread so I contacted Fluke UK and they immediately said "It's under limited warranty - just send it in." I queried charges and they said I'd have to pay postage...great I thought they sound like they might replace the cap!So I sent it in.After a couple of weeks I've received the quote...Please be advised that the meter is out of service hence no parts available.We are quoting you for an replacement unit Fluke-289 at the repair cost which includes 50% discount off the pricelist.Please be advised that the 50% discount is only applicable for trading in your old unit.-Repair price : 268.00GBP (End customer price)-Calibration type : Traceable Calibration with Data (OPTIONAL ON REPLACEMENT UNIT)-Calibration price : 87.50GBP (End customer price)-Investigation fee if quotation is rejected : 46.00GBP (End customer price)-Shipping charge : 10.00GBPAll ex VAT of course.To me that sounds like a pretty poor show from Fluke.The offer of:1) Buying a 289 from them (which I don't want) at a price that is more than I want to spend.2) Calibrating my meter for £105 + postage but retaining the fault as "no parts available"3) Paying £55 + postage to have it sent back to me.I even mentioned that there's a very long thread about the design issue of the supercap and she didn't sound like it was a big shock.I've absolutely no problem paying for these things when told upfront but the very nice lady on the phone didn't indicate these options when I asked what the options could be.Has anyone else had any better luck from Fluke (UK) on this matter? I'm wishing I'd just replaced it myself nowThanksTim

author: serggio
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2017, 09:17:21 pm
content: Are you eligible?QuoteIf not, ask them return your meter, replace capacitor oneself and be happy with your trusted meter.

author: Tim5000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2017, 09:37:58 pm
content: Hi serggio, yes I believe I am eligible. As I mentioned I also queried it with the support lady.What's frustrating is she could have quite easily told me "we can't repair them" but she didn't - she instead told me to send it in as it's covered under the limited warranty.And I phoned twice to check before going ahead with it.But now to get it back I have is to pay £55 + postage. Again if that had been mentioned upfront when I asked about fees I wouldn't have a complaint - but it absolutely wasn't mentioned.My concern is why didn't they just tell me over the phone that they won't repair these meters? To my mind not being upfront when asked is just theft.I would be interested if anyone else has dealt with Fluke UK specifically on the matter of this design issue.

author: serggio
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2017, 05:07:18 am
content: Hi Tim5000,If you still eligible for lifetime limited warranty (no 10 year left from date of purchase), I suppose they should did repair/replace your meter for free.You still responsible for postage fees but not for repair cost.Try contact their US support by mail for clarify this situation or head their service department in UK.Girl on reception just for bla-bla-bla, she is not responsible for any decisions and not check any service bulletin during phone conversation.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2017, 11:15:34 am
content: It must be obvious by now that Fluke are either dropping the ball too often,or their service agents are not worded up properly about how Fluke support works,or both!Tim5000s situation described above sounds like a feeble attempt to relieve him or her of more moneywithout fixing a WELL KNOWN meter issue that is Fluke's part blunder, not the CUSTOMERS!To add more SALT to the wound they want Tim5000 to dump the 189 and fork out difference money and get a 289,which bears NO RESEMBLANCE in functionality, [[SIZE!!!]] and convenience to a 189, even though many of the specs are similari.e. the 189 is a sportscar, the 289 a pimped up pickup ute.What the FLUKE is going on?The competition is watching...note more orange Keysights, green Mastechs and red Brymens and Uni-Ts out there !let's not forget those little rippaBLUEmeters that are quickly gaining favour too

author: iamjanco
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 27, 2017, 02:30:56 am
content: Hi everyone, realize this thread is about the 289 supercap issue, hoping my query is somewhat relevant (I'd rather not invest in a current Fluke, if they're no longer the brand they used to be).I've been considering purchasing a 289 FVF package for use in computer benching given its logging capabilities, but haven't been able to locate much in the way of whether Fluke has properly addressed the leaking supercap issue in the newer releases. I'm also a bit concerned about battery life during longer test intervals and am open to other alternatives that offer similar functionality. My needs are focused on short and longer interval voltage and thermal measurements and am not adverse to a smaller bench unit (space is limited), even a used one, though I'd prefer to keep pricing within the same range.Info and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

author: Tim5000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2017, 06:30:22 pm
content: Hi, There was a post earlier in the thread I think that seemed to show the cap had been designed out of newer models and a battery has instead been designed in...With regards to my issue with Fluke UK, I'm just waiting for my meter back.I wasn't happy with the offer of a 289 - I think they should at least have replaced the cap if they didn't have any boards.But apparently fluke don't have any parts...I'm not sure I believe that but it is what it is!They did at least waiver the "investigation fee" so I went with that option.Mostly I was dissapointed they didn't straight up say that they didn't/couldn't/wouldn't do anything - it would have saved both mine and their time and money and I'd have got it done by now!So all in all I'm a little bit lighter of pocket for double shipping fees and will investigate fixing it myself when it arrives.

author: technogeeky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2017, 09:54:08 pm
content: Quote from: Tim5000 on June 27, 2017, 06:30:22 pmAs fucking well they should have waived the fee! You already knew what the problem was! They know what the problem is. What is there to investigate?This whole situation is absurd.I don't currently own any Fluke multimeters, but I certainly aspired to one day own what I thought was such a high-end meter. But now, I can't see myself making such a purchase. It's probably been obvious for a long time to some that they aren't fundamentally better; and now it's obvious that they can indeed be worse.It's a shame, really. They were a "great" American brand.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2017, 08:01:27 am
content: You just need to find someone local (clued and honest) that can sort out the cRapacitor issue (without causing other issues) if you don't want to stuff about DIY.Mine still suffer from the issue but are working 100%Both the 189 and 289 are still killa meters to this day, and will continue to be so,unless Volts, Amps and Ohms become obsoleted in the near future.

author: Tim5000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2017, 09:16:33 pm
content: Thanks for the replies.I've got a couple of meters - the 189 that's getting on and then I've also got a 2016 87V that I got for a great price on ebay virtually new. The 87V is good - I like it, but I still reach for the 189.As I told Fluke - this was my personal meter but as a consultant engineer at my work when it comes to buying new equipment I can and will give an honest account of my experience with their support.I even pointed them at this forum and the 87V quality forum to highlight that a lot of people are losing faith in them...but they just weren't open to moving at all.Apparently the limited support ran out in April (2 months out) so they couldn't do anything but of course were very sorry!So..when the meter comes back I'll order the parts and get it repaired myself, it doesn't look hard and I can't leave it knowing it's there - I just wanted to use Fluke's "legendary" service.I'm not happy - but lessons learned and people will always vote with their feet.Tim

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2017, 11:48:05 pm
content: I use the 189 and 87V combo sometimes, it's a bench test no brainerJust watch out for the 87V AC default return when measuring DC current and switching from MA to uA,I've got a taped on sticky note to remind me

author: ketimoi
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2017, 05:12:59 am
content: This thread is so useful no doubt about that. I own a fluke multimeter after reading this best multimeter reviewhttps://totalguide.org/best-multimeter/. Overall it is an good multimeter. But, this month I am seeing some problem with it. I am reading whole thread to figure out my problem.

author: Tim5000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2017, 04:07:37 pm
content: Quote from: ketimoi on September 30, 2017, 05:12:59 amHi ketimoi, good news is you'll get a lot of help here I'm sure.And being in the US everything I've read is that Fluke is very much more interesting in doing "the right thing".I've actually only just got around to revisiting my Fluke 189 meter with this issue so I've ordered what a few others have mentioned - a Panasonic EECS0HD334H.Will update when I try and fit it - it should be arriving this week.EDIT: Confirmed that it fitted (with a little trimming of the tabs as it's physically bigger), and time is now held whilst changing batteries.

author: Marco1971
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2018, 12:22:36 pm
content: Hi, all...my 89 IV and 189 are in the same condition (pristine)...only in the 89 IV there are some signs of leaking. Both from year 2000.Any issue if intead of 0.1 F i'll use one supercap with another value of capacitance (e.g 0.22 or 0.33 F) ? I just ordered four of this...Many thanks.Marco1971.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2018, 10:31:49 pm
content: For the moment in my 189I have removed the supercap, it was rustedI dont care about the clock, the meter works very well, i did find an physical equivalent at digikey, 0.22f at 5 volts at 1.52$ can, ordered 5 of them but they are out of stock, back order for 2 month ...

author: bayati
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2019, 07:01:29 pm
content: HiI'm sorry to bringing up an old thread and I know it has been talked a lot about this issue but please bear with me because I'm seriously confused.I have 2 fluke 289. both have corroded cap and they can't hold the time when the battery is removed. I measured it's consumption right after installing the batteries. It draws 10 mA at first but after 1 min it stops at 20-30 uA (I think it charges the cap). Both working perfectly and I don't have any problems in measurements and I think battery consumptions are normal.Note: I can't send them to Fluke-- Now my questions:1. Two people mentioned that after removing the cap their meters broke. How common is that? It can be related to other issues not removing cap?2. Many substitute caps mentioned. 0.1F 3.3v, 0.22F 5.5v, 0.33F 5.5v? In super caps using higher capacity is dangerous or higher voltage?3. The meter's firmware is 1.12. Is it better to change the super cap after updating to 1.16 or before that?4. Should I wait for the cap to get discharged completely then removing them or it does not matter?5. This question may look absurd but one person mentioned just using hot air to change the cap, not soldering iron?!!! but he did not mentioned why! (I think using soldering iron is better because using hot air, I thing it messes up the calibration)6. The meters are calibrated in 2011. I don't care about the date but I'm worried that the battery corrosion expands or shorts. what do you thing? should change it?Thank you in advance.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 03:25:13 am
content: On my 3x 189 they had an 0.1 farad supercap, changed them to 0.33 farad at 5.5 volts, bended the legs to fit pcb pads, i desoldered one side at the time, none of them broke afterwards, while wainting for the caps, i did use them with no problems ??I did use anti static protocol, not shorted anything in case the supercaps where charged, mine were corroded on top.

author: Daruosha
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 09:33:55 am
content: Quote from: bayati on January 05, 2019, 07:01:29 pm1- Removing the caps wouldn't do any harm. Fluke themselves confirmed the purpose of that cap is to keep the clock.2- Higher caps ratings are OK (except in high ripple filtering where ESR is important)3- Firmware version doesn't matter.4- If the corrosion process has been started, remove the cap ASAP.5- Removing an SMD cap can be done in many many ways. Just do it the way it suites you and you feel comfortable enough to do it. If you do it properly with small enough air nozzles, hot air wouldn't do any damage and drift.6- Yes, Change them.

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 01:14:59 pm
content: I’m one of the guys that after removing the capacitor the meter refused to boot. I sent it to Fluke and they changed the capacitor and repaired the meter free of charge but I had to wait 1 month as I remember.PS. I repair pcbs for a living and know how to solder and desolder through hole and smd components.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 02:54:55 pm
content: @sotos Errors can happen to experimented techs, an sudden discharge at the wrong place, bad manipulation etc ...Glad Fluke repaired it, sad they haven't issued a official recall for this supercap, "they" know its a problem for a long time.I used Panasonic eec-s0hd334h pn: p11064-nd at DigikeyBut they are being phased out ... i have 3 left in case ...

author: bayati
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 04:09:23 pm
content: Fluke has a big unofficial market in Iran (just like apple) but no official service. I think i should take a risk and do it. I try to discharge the super cap with a resistor before removing it. wish me luck

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 05:02:11 pm
content: When you remove the capacitor don’t try to turn it on to see if it can work without the cap. I suggest you remove it put a new one in and then turn it on.I did this to mine and didn’t boot, I tried it without the cap. Maybe it doesn’t like it.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 05:18:37 pm
content: @ sotosMy 189 worked pretty well without the supercap, I did not use any time logging feature and or set a clockI wont say for the 289 series, apparently there may be an real battery instead of an supercap ??Some teardown photos showed that.

author: say
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 06:58:03 pm
content: Could you please post a link of those photos.

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2019, 07:15:23 pm
content: I was working with a friend that has a 189 a month ago. I went to use his meter and it was dead. He had just put fresh batteries in. With permission, I took it apart and sure enough the cap was going bad. No need to discharge it, it was flat. These meters are getting old.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2019, 12:06:53 am
content: I'm still sitting on the fence about removing the stupercrapacitors on the 189 and 289I would prefer to remove the caps and leave a blank space there,but without killing the meter/s and or affecting their logging functionsor have the charger circuit/firmware/software go nuts with"Dude, where's my cap?!!"Reset of the clock on battery changes is a trivial matter compared to having leak prone caps and coin batteries lurking in thereBoth meters working great, I really don't want to kill emWould an electrically isolated soldering iron or station with a wee tiny tip be ok to get this done?or should the iron be earth/ground referenced?I don't want to mess with hot air, nor do I wish to encourage any ESD zaps during a simple heat and remove operationi.e. I want them GONE without the'SOL-Game Over'thing flashing on the meter display

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2019, 12:58:01 am
content: i've done the supercap change on a anti static bench mat, with an normally earth grounded hakko soldering post, nothing fancy, if you're not so sure, discharge the supercap with an 100 ohms resistor ...For the supposed battery in a 287 289 link :https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-189-with-leaking-surface-mount-coin-cell/225/On the pcb it is marked BT1 :https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-189-with-leaking-surface-mount-coin-cell/?action=dlattach;attach=311290;imageMy 189 had c xxx marked on the pcb, the confusion would be : it is a supercap used as a small battery ??

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2019, 08:56:41 am
content: Mine both look like un-shaven,not so supercapacitorsI reckon owners of later model 289, with the internal backup battery instead of the supercRapacitor, will be having similar adventures in a few years time,especially if the battery sort of internally shorts itself or changes polarity, leaks, or just goes weird...as I've seen happen on PC Bios backup batteriesWhy oh why did Fluke not fit a CR2032 battery style socket,someplace where vibrations and leakage won't cause dramaor silicone bodge it down...These are their flagship meters FFS (For Flukes Sake) and 289 is still current,this silly business does not instill repeat buyer confidence, especially at those 'forget mates rates' prices...

author: bayati
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2019, 10:16:24 am
content: Just to confirm that Fluke could do much better job, it is a picture of Samsung E250 motherboard. The board is made in 2006. It has a ~3.4v lithium battery at least 13 years old. As you see, no leaking and I read 3v on it right now. It is as small as the supercap that is used in the 189/289/287 (if not smaller).

author: SteinarN
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 29, 2019, 10:59:43 pm
content: My first post on this forum.I've had a 287 for years, but from the start it was draining the batteries in a month or two just by sitting on the shelf, clock also lost its time.Tonight i was searching this problem and I came over a couple threads on this forum. I have identified the supercap on the pcb and ordered 4 of these:https://no.mouser.com/ProductDetail/555-DSK3R3H224U-HLI hope this will cure the illness of my othervise excellent meter.I have a few small projects I am working on and I hope I can get some help from you for those projects when I start on them laterSteinar

author: say
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2019, 09:10:44 pm
content: It should. Good luck

author: bayati
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2019, 12:48:43 pm
content: Hi guys.I changed my 289's supercap.My meter is built in 2011 Firmware 1.12. Before sharing my experience you should know that Fluke 289 is about 700$ to 800$ in Iran and as it is illegal to be exported to Iran, it is very rare and there is no warranty for it.First I searched for a replacement cap and the best I could find in Iran was MGC 5.5V 0.33F (size wise not the best choice but the best for me). I bought it for 1$. It is a Japanese Ricoh cap so I believe it will serve for a long time.I opened the meter and I was reading 0.670v on the old supercap. I shorted it but I still read 0.670 . I disordered it anyway and soldered the new cap with soldering iron set on 330c.It boot with no problem but the hart attack happened when I checked the meter. It was reading too high!!I opened it and thanks to the resent video of Dave, I thought maybe the shield is touching the negative lead of the cap as it is too big. I put tape on it and now it works perfectly.So i confirm that changing the cap does not break the meter. Just be ESD safe and do not turn it on before putting the new cap (I talked with someone who has removed the cap and it's working without it).Tnx to all.P.S. In the last picture the leads has been zeroed, that’s why it reads few counts downP.S. look at the inductor above the supercap!!! I didn’t even touch it and I’m sure that I’m the first one who has opened it. It should be happened at the assembly.*If the pictures don't open use this link:https://photos.app.goo.gl/nmGjZ31ACf3h1owY8

author: bayati
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2019, 07:55:46 pm
content: As we are talking about supercaps, you can use the following pdf (datasheet) or pictures to estimate the lifetime of your supercap.based on this equation mine should last for ~6.5 years.https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/88/EDL-19670.pdf

author: FrankE
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2019, 01:25:23 pm
content: The Supercap failed on my Fluke 289 so I sent it back to Fluke in the Netherlands in 2016 under an RMA for a warranty repair. I think it took about a week round trip,I wouldn't have known the Supercap was the issue if it wasn't for a thread that year on here.Every Friday I check all my batteries,replace/recharge as necessary. I also power on anything with a Supercap Friday and Tuesday (though I assume the 289s supercap is energised direct from the AA cells from before the switch. I noticed last Friday the time needed reset and the personal details have been wiped.Changing the supercap is a warranty repair so shouldn't cost if still in warranty. The repair won't affect calibration and Fluke normally won't do a new factory calibration.

author: agdr
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 05, 2019, 10:31:28 pm
content: So today I finally get around to calling Fluke's repair department here in the US about my two 289's that seem to have the supercap issue (both forget the date and time when the batteries are removed). I learn that the 289's have a 10 year warranty. The warranty repair does come with the non-data type calibration. Maybe their policy on calibration with repairs varies from country to country..Also: I asked - when 289s go back to Fluke for repair you don't need to include the test leads, batteries, or any case. Just the meters. Shipping both via FedEx Ground today was $18. If I had fully insured probably would have been more like $26. Lol tried UPS first and they literally could not process the return address. Pffftt. There are some building numbers in front of part of it, and the UPS system didn't show that exact building. That is why I stopped using UPS for outbound a loooong time ago.I hope this information helps others!

author: mr.fabe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2019, 12:30:29 am
content: I recently had my 289 in for a faded display issue in low ohms and possible supercap issue. Spoke with Fluke TS to confirm the work that was performed and the rep stated no pay, no calibration. I received the unit back yesterday. Fluke replaced the mobo and included a calibration certificate. All expense covered under warranty except shipping to Fluke.Changes from my original unitBoard ID was 3 replaced with 5Build date 6/2010 replaced with 11/2017FW v1.16 replaced with v1.41I purchased this unit last month on fleabay.. forgot to tell them I wasn't the original owner

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2019, 10:41:16 am
content: I got into one of those rare lab moods early todayand decided to takes my chances and de-solder the supercrapacitor from both the 189 and 289,with no intention of replacements same or better,and damn the torpedoes...Got everything set up ready to unsolder, ensure no ESR drama, thinking about somehow safely discharging any residual charge from the supercaps first,and... WHOA! wait a minute!I went another way:I CAREFULLY used my sharp sidecutters to cut the top metal tab off the supercap,slowly lifted back the supercap to about 90 degrees max,bent it back and forth a few times, supporting the back so no pressure on the PCB solder area,till the bottom supercap tab snapped off cleanCleaned up with isopropyl alcohol > Job doneBoth meters working perfect, set their clocks, and no more suss supercrapacitor issues to think about,or rant on and Fluke bash at 189/289 postsFWIW: the supercap tab remnants can be unsoldered any time in the future if I (no chance!)or the next owner wants to wack in a supercap, and resume the saga I just endedi.e.No Fluke was harmed by this procedure to remove a malignant tumorHappy Fluke Camper again

author: Tim5000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2019, 10:52:04 am
content: Quote from: mr.fabe on February 06, 2019, 12:30:29 amFirmware v1.41 - interesting! I wonder what the changes in that are.The latest available on their website is 1.16:https://www.fluke.com/en-gb/support/software-downloads/fluke-287-and-289-multimeter-firmware-update

author: mr.fabe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2019, 05:40:06 pm
content: Quote from: Tim5000 on April 13, 2019, 10:52:04 amIf your unit is working well as it was designed, I wouldn't worry about the firmware changes between v1.16 and v1.41The major problems have already been addressed. It does boot fast and the batteries last a long time though...

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2019, 11:03:10 pm
content: (Reader Alert: Tired and perhaps one beer too many zone...)Would soldering in a small PCB coin battery holder be a proposition, so as to 'plug' in a supercapacitor (with its tabs cut)giving the meter owner the options of replacement and or removal any timeor perhaps a pair of wires soldered in that tiny spot,and the supercap and or holder parked elsewhere in a bigger or blank space on the PCB and properly secured.-----------------Here's another brain bender:is there a simple component addon to act as a one way valve so the supercapacitor can be charged with just enough voltage/current to keep the clock alive for a few minutes during a battery swap,but ensure there is no way any voltage/current or a short or freaky polarity reversal can kick back at the charge source.Maybe it's in there already, I don't knowand haven't gone that far to work it out (no schematic+lazy)Faulty, underated, temperamental, or shorted supercaps and or the charging circuit overdriven into a short, may have caused grief to 189, 289 and 89IV owners over the years,awarding an undeserved bad rep to these fine metersFluke could/should have handled this matter a LOT better than just dumping it on the owners to sort it out, surfing for info at forums and Youtube,or hoping the issue will eventually time out and blow awayor cash strapped battlers can go without, sledge the Fluking meterand wake up to affordable Aneng or better still Brymen/EEVblog metersand corporats toss them in the dumpster and buy cartons of new Flukes

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2019, 01:35:05 am
content: @ ElectroThis is too complicated for nothing, a new supercap at 2-4 $ usd and voila, your troubles goes a way for a long time

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2019, 02:03:15 am
content: Quote from: coromonadalix on April 15, 2019, 01:35:05 amHi mate, I'm aware of that option for a quick fixbut sometimes you can forget to check up on a multimeter for a long time, especially if the batteries last,AND.. maybe have bad luck (that's me) with a faulty or leaky brand or batch of supercapacitor AGAIN,or worse a freaky ESR zap or CAL nuke during the unsolder/solderingand be back to the beginning of the drama, or worse offThese meters are too expensive to easily replace, and no real qualified local techs near me to fix them... for any amount less than the price of a new meterI'm leaving them out for now as the meters are working great and no more thinking about what's going on inside or what may happenand I don't mind updating the logger time clock once every few months (or longer) on battery changeand due to Daylight Savings Time here, you have to set the clock back or forward by one hourtwice a year anyway

author: serggio
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2019, 07:40:25 pm
content: Three years ago I replased leaked cupercap in my Fluke 287 on Elna DSK-3R3H224U-HL. It still working well and keep time on my meter for four hour. That is enought for recharging Eneloop batteries that I use with my meter. Eneloop is really cool solution for power this meter.I do not see that supercaps is real issue.

author: rauldm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 04:51:35 am
content: Hi, I have a 289 rev 15, the fucking meter works very good, but it has corrosion on cap 145, Fluke says in its web site, the 42830001 series it comes with new firmware "1.41", and all meters with lower serial numbers can't update to this firmware, I supposed the new Fluke, it comes with new PCB board and general improvements, someone knows about this? the cap leakage is solved? another good meter with same features? I have the u1282a, but is slow in cap and ohm modes, the metrawatt is good option? or only is stupid expensive?Regards.

author: mr.fabe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 05:17:06 am
content: Quote from: rauldm on September 13, 2019, 04:51:35 amI have a Fluke 289 with FW v1.41 and the serial starts with 3826####. My 289 was sent in for repair for the low ohms fade issue in January 2019. Fluke replaced the board and calibrated the unit prior to shipping it back. I asked about the supercap issue in the original work order and was told that is was no longer a problem.

author: rauldm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 04:10:29 pm
content: Quote from: mr.fabe on September 13, 2019, 05:17:06 amThe first board with ohms issues, do you know what revision number was?Your new board you know what revision is?if Fluke puts new firmware from 42830001 meter series I think your new board is last revision.Really I searched another sustitute for this meter, but I think another meter is not gathed all features for same price range.Thanks for your answer, really I like this meter, I have 87v,28ii and 117, but this meter for me is better than others, even my others meter are just complement for my 289.

author: mr.fabe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 04:40:07 pm
content: In the meter info screen, the Board ID was 3 and was built on 6-26-10 with FW v1.16 / v.88.My replacement Board ID is 5, built on 11-28-17 with FW v1.41 / v.88.I noticed on the RMA that the serial # remained the same. Fluke probably just updated the number in the board for administrative purposes.Service was fantastic from Fluke. One email and a phone call to resolve the defect. I bought my meter used on ePray for a great price and Fluke covered it under warranty. No hassles, new meter with calibration certificate. Can't beat that.Yikes! I just realized the same info you requested is in a previous post #299 by me. My memory is failing...Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

author: rauldm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2019, 06:52:06 pm
content: Ok, fluke eliminates the capacitor 145 on new board? How solves the problem? New firmware has it improves?

author: mr.fabe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2019, 07:49:50 pm
content: I don't know what is on the new board but was told by Fluke that the supercap problem is not an issue. I have no reason to doubt Fluke and if there were a problem with losing the date/time then it would be covered under warranty. The supercap problem is a few years old and Fluke mentions that they were going to make changes on future revisions of the 287/289.

author: rauldm
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2019, 07:15:58 pm
content: I talked with Fluke support about this capacitor, I attached datasheet of capacitor. In datasheet it comes this:1.- Re-flow soldering method available (250 °C)Note : 1. When the capacitor is being used in a high temperature and high humidity environment for a long period, brown depositedmaterials might be found around the sealing area. However, the materials are insulators and will not affect any electricalcharacteristics of the capacitor.2. Do not use refl ow soldering when cell voltage is above 0.3 V.Really I dont know is or not recomendable an user change this capacitor, I think a meter is a tool in that you trust your life, if you don't doing the procedure correctly perhaps will not be trustworthy again.

author: CDaniel
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2019, 08:56:56 pm
content: The model 187 doesn't have that supercap fitted ... so it is just for not losing the logging data when the batteries are consumed . A user that doesn't do logging every day could use the meter ( at least 189 ) very well with that cap just removed if it goes bad .

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2019, 03:41:05 am
content: Quote from: rauldm on September 18, 2019, 07:15:58 pmHmm ... the devil is in the details isn't it ?I guess the manufacturers need tobabysitshort the cap before hand if use reflow method.Learned something today, thanks.

author: Marco1971
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2020, 02:28:47 pm
content: Quote from: coromonadalix on April 15, 2019, 01:35:05 amNot much long time...two and half years for me and my Fluke 287.Marco1971

author: paddyred
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 22, 2020, 03:33:29 pm
content: Anyone know what the difference is on these new 289 boards? Rev5? I just sent mine in for repair after the supercap issue (produced 2016) and fluke just sent me a BNIB one with new leads, accessories and all the trimmings. New one made August 2020.

author: Xandinator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2021, 10:36:42 am
content: Unfortunately haven't been so lucky with their customer service. Another 289 confirmed working w/o cap tho.

author: rivest
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2022, 08:50:17 am
content: Fluke 189 working without cap here.

author: DarkskyZ
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 07, 2022, 01:13:27 pm
content: Hi there, just a quick first post here after reading about everything about this supercap mess on these Flukes. This particular post made me act on it and I am glad I did.I got my 289 second hand for around 200€ about 2 years ago as I needed some recording capability for a one time job. I am using it on my bench ever since as a very nice bit of kit.But there is no way I would agree to pay Fluke France 316.5€ + 30€ for S/H they are asking for a repair while in the mean time they told me that "lifetime warranty" is only available to original owner.I also like (not) how their definition of " lifetime" is their own view on what lifetime is.So... the DIY, soldering iron way I went. It has been an easy 2 minutes job with easy access to the soldering points even for me being less than competent with a soldering iron in hand.I prefer to have peace of mind with this thing not leaking all over inside the meter even if that means having to set date and time from time to time.Anyway, thank you all for confirming that a 289 doesn't need to have its supercap to work fine. That made me confident to remove it and I confirm it just works.

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2022, 01:53:58 pm
content: If removing the super cap means that it would lose time when you remove the AA batteries then it's not a problem. The date and time only needed when you do the recording.

author: DarkskyZ
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 07, 2022, 04:51:33 pm
content: Yes, that is all there is to it.Except for hardcore everyday logging people that is not a problem.I would assume those people probably don’t rely on battery operated meters anyway so, to me at least, that supercap (when working and not leaking) is more of a convenience than a need.

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2022, 06:04:11 pm
content: Lukily my 289 (2017) and 287(2022) don't have the leaky capacitor yet. But if it ever does I would simply remove the cap. I got the new 287 because someone beat the hell out of one of the 287's in the company I worked for. My boss had it laying in the junk box so I asked him to give it to me. I sent it in to Fluke and they gave me the brand new one under warranty.

author: Electro Detective
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2023, 10:03:13 am
content: Revisiting this post:As previously stated, in peaved frustration, and willing to reset clocks on AA battery changes, I removed the superCRAPicitors from both Fluke 189 and 289 two years ago,and they have been flawless.I forgot about it till I came across this post.Seriously folks, either fit a new capacitor, or lose the bearded leaky one,or.. leave it in there at your riskand toss coins the meter does not go weird with a shorted or halfass behaving cap stressing the meter's smarts. Your callI sincerely thank the many members who commented across many posts about this so that I could make up my mind which way to roll back thenThe Disclaimer is just because my quick fix hacknique worked for me, YMMVThese meters are absolute keepers for me, especially now that I don't leave AA batteries in there during non use periods to leak!Surely there's a special lake in Hell for battery industry bean counters, and their shareholder dividend junkies

author: parawizard
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2024, 10:20:37 am
content: Fluke accepted my warranty request for this issue but then decided they actually needed proof of purchase on the tech's benchDate and time don't get reset but batteries die when off in a couple days sometimes. Looks like the meter took a 8000km trip for nothing! Should have fixed it myself.