Any CNC aficionados here? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Spikee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2015, 01:32:56 am
content: Hey all,I just finished my first cnc milled part and that got me wondered if tere are more cnc (hobbyist) here on the forum ?Im mainly gooing to use it for cnc milling prototype cases out of aluminium and quadcopter / fpv parts.Here is a picture of my first part. It is a so called step block. It is used as an support block to clamp material down on the bed of the cnc. Thus will be cut in 5 pieces.

author: TSL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2015, 03:32:41 am
content: I'm not an aficionado, still a n00b with CNC but I have been able to mill a respectable PCB for one of my projects.Designed in Diptrace, Gerber output processed in CopperCAM, cut on a Carving-CNC 6040 at 24,000rpm using a 0.4mm end mill.regardsTim

author: Fred27
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 16, 2015, 09:39:07 am
content: If you haven't already found out for yourself I have to warn you that it can get addictive!I started by CNC converting a small Proxxon MF70 mill. Then I won a 3D printer. Then came a laser cutter. Then a lathe (which I have so far resisted converting to CNC). When my new bigger workshop is finished The first thing I'll do is get a larger mill or CNC router.I see you've also started down the familiar route of using these tools to build / improve more tools.

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 16, 2015, 09:42:25 am
content: I'm converting a MF 70 too (more info in my blog). And recently buy a 3D printer. I'm using printed adapter for the conversion of the PROXXON.YES, it's very addictive.

author: jeremy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2015, 09:48:44 am
content: I think you'll find that it is a natural progression from electronics for some of us. Me personally, I've got a CNC router and 3d printer, and I'm debating whether to by a mill. But a 500kg machine requires a lot more forethought than a 3d printer.

author: johansen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2015, 09:57:23 am
content: you could build a ball screw taig cnc conversion and it would cost you about 2000$ and weigh about 140 pounds.if you want to use it to mill circuit boards it will do 6 inches by 12 inches.. at .001" repeatability once you map the screw threads.. the ball screw conversion is not needed, total price would come out to about 1700$

author: jeremy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2015, 10:27:02 am
content: Quote from: johansen on January 16, 2015, 09:57:23 amHow do you map the threads? I'm assuming linear encoder and then you can put some correction table in Mach 3 or something? But I've seen 1um linear scales that cost at least $500.Unfortunately taigs are quite hard to get hold of in Australia from what I have read.

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2015, 05:48:16 pm
content: I just recently left the wonderful world of high-end CNC machining. Its was my life blood for a quite a while. I sold off that segment of my business to focus on electronics, but I would love to have machines at my house. We made very complicated and very precise (.0001") parts from concept to delivery.I know a thing or two about CNC and ME, more than I know about EE.

author: mc
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2015, 07:33:04 pm
content: I've got a few CNC machines. A Denford Cyclone lathe, a Denford Novamill, and a little digitising machine using a 3040 base.The Cyclone I done a complete retrofit on with a Dynomotion KFlop & Kanalog, replaced the stepper motors with brushless servos, and fitted/programmed a Click PLC for the toolchanger.The Novamill was originally bought to make some bits to finish the Cyclone to save me faffing around doing setups with my old manual mill, and has actually came in hadny quite a few times since, and even makes the occasional profitable bit.The digitising machine was built to copy some parts for a potential product range, but I need to sort out a decent mill for aluminium before I really push this (the Novamill just doesn't have the power for production)I also have an old Matchmaker/Shizouka CNC knee mill I'm planning to retrofit at some point, as it'll be handy for some bigger steel jobs I've got lined up.Spikee, you do realise commercial step blocks aren't a series of right angled steps. but instead are angled so the steps/teeth bite into each other and can't slip of?

author: johansen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2015, 10:35:12 pm
content: Quote from: jeremy on January 16, 2015, 10:27:02 amseveral ways.cheapest would be to buy a 6 inch digital caliper, clamp it to the table and move the machine through the motions. but the accuracy of those calipers is often in question.i have had good luck with my 6 inch calipers comparing them with gauge blocks and they are usually +/- .001" at 6 inches.I have access to a 12 inch caliper and it checks out to .001" with gauge blocks.. but that 12 inch caliper also cost as much as a cheap gauge block set.you could just buy the gauge blocks and a dial indicator.if you have good eyesight and practice a bit, you can buy a vernier 12 inch height gauge off ebay and use that as a reference.my taig's screws were 1.00319 too long.. this isn't enough to notice milling a circuit board, but that error is far too great for press fit bearing bores and stuff..

author: Spikee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2015, 11:38:36 pm
content: one thing i currently struggle is work holding. I have a vertex vk4 machine vise but the amount it can open is only 62mm which is way to small.I would like something that can open anywhere from 130-250mm , is good quality but doesn't break the bank. I also saw that some of the more expensive vises have a push down feature built in.Currently looking at the vertex vh4 (hydraulic) and the vertex vmc 6 and vertex vmc 4l.As far as i can understand these do not have the push down feature. I'm also wondering how much advantage the hydraulic clamping force gives in real life.Can anyone elaborate on that?

author: atferrari
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2015, 01:07:57 am
content: Quote from: TSL on January 16, 2015, 03:32:41 amThat is what I would like to be able doing one of these days...Congratulations!Could you please elaborate? All those names are just Greek (or Chinese) to me.Interested.Repeatability?

author: tesla500
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2015, 02:38:27 am
content: I just got into CNC with a Tree Journeyman 325 I picked up used last year. 2100kg of 1986 vintage, ex-Boeing cast iron and electronics! The controller is dated but gets the job done, and it's pretty advanced for something so old with a full closed-loop inverter spindle drive.

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2015, 04:19:01 am
content: I've got a very small cnc (www.microcarve.com) for cutting plastic enclosures. I've developed some macros for mach3 to cut squares and circles of varying depths and passes. CNC is a whole world of its own, that is for sure.

author: TSL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2015, 05:19:20 am
content: Quote from: atferrari on January 17, 2015, 01:07:57 amThanksQuoteDiptrace is an excellent schematic capture program that allows up to 300 pins free.Get it here.http://www.diptrace.com/Like most PCB programs it outputs a bunch of files in "Gerber" format which is an industry standard for such things. If you wanted yur PCB's to be commercially manufactured you send your "gerbers" to them.But "Gerber" is not what most CNC mills understand and thus you need to convert the files to "G-Code"For PCB's there is a number of programs that can do this, and for PCB programs like Eagle - it actually has a plugin that will output the G-Code file directly.Since I use DipTrace I needed to convert my files and I used CopperCAM.You have to buy this program, and you can get it here...http://www.galaad.net/coppercam-eng.htmlQuoteMy mill, i bought from these guys...http://www.carving-cnc.com/And mine is an non-USB version of this ...http://www.carving-cnc.com/cnc-x4800-series/cnc-x4800usb-router-engraver-drilling-and-milling-machine.htmlRepeatability is quoted at 0.05mm and after having cut a few PCB's now, I have no reason to doubt that.An Endmill is the profile of the tool in the head, in this case, a square face. You can get V bits, ball shaped end mills and mills with specific profiles for cutting into edges of material, all in in many different shapes and sizes.Like EEVblog there is a massive community for CNC's here...http://www.cnczone.com/Since the prime purpose of my mill is to cut PCB prototypes I bought endmill, vbit and drill kits to suit the purpose. See photos attached.As others have said, this is highly addictive. I'm now learning to cut front panels out of aluminum for some of my projects and engrave nice labels for the switches and lightsSeriously good fun !!cheersTim

author: andtfoot
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 18, 2015, 08:03:41 am
content: I've got one of the 6040 frames, and then attached to it my own motors, Gecko G540 driver, VFD, etc.I've mainly used it for odd jobs here and there. I've done a circuit board or two, some randm engravings, and I just cut out a guitar body just then.The main limitation is my ability with the CAD/CAM, and experience in holding down work, feed rates, etc.The guitar body in progress.Made a banjo for my mum, and did the engraving and inlay on the CNC.My first attempt at a double sided circuit board (headphone amp).

author: TSL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2015, 08:15:26 am
content: WOW!Andtfoot you have some mad skills there!!Beautiful work.cheersTim

author: atferrari
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2015, 10:37:36 am
content: Quote from: TSL on January 17, 2015, 05:19:20 amClear and to the point. Gracias Tim.

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2015, 02:02:32 pm
content: Here is a picture of my setup.I'm using a G540 as well and a superpid so I can cut plastic at lower RPM.

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2015, 06:48:51 am
content: I've built a fairly large (300x300x130mm work aread) router out of plywood. Worked just fine for cutting wood, laminate, pcb, plastic and so on. Not rigid enough for aluminum. I've use proper supported linear guides though, and now I'm designing a new one made of steel & aluminum (based on a large 280 or 300mm C-extrusion).