What are your favorite tools and accessories? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2020, 06:05:32 am
content: I've only been at electronics for a span of time that can be measured in days, and besides finding it very relaxing and incredibly addictive, I'm already discovering which tools are necessary evils and which just work great. There are plenty of other tools I have used consistently over the years and have come to love and loathe.Here's a few of my favorites (granted, I don't own many) and I'm curious to know what yours are.Round CuttersThey cleanly slice through multi-core audio cables and heavier gauge power cable like hot butter. Only $11 USD from Redco. Money well spent.TS100 Soldering IronThis little iron is amazing. I chose it after much toil and research based on size, price and features. It heats up fast and stays hot. I have to crank it up when working on heavier gauge cable, but it's great. It also allows me to be nimble since it's so light and small. I can focus on what I'm doing and technique rather than messing with it. I highly recommend the Ralim firmware. The heat boost button feature is worth it. I find the BC2 tip works great, especially for cable work, and picked up 2 other tips to try.Fluke 179 MultimeterI've had this for a few years and love it. Built like a tank, came with 2 probes, temperature probe, and has a nifty kick stand and a fuse. I bought it refurbished for less than $100 from a reputable reseller/refurbisher and it came with warranty. Unfortunately this is the only test equipment I currently own, but at least it's a good one.Scientific/Medical grade 99% IPANot technically a tool, but I use it so much it might as well be. The first time I tried this stuff instead of the watered-down kind, I almost died of bliss. Possibly my favorite chemical... after nicotine. Best friend to the Qtip. I'd buy drums of it if I could afford it. Cleans and dissolves a lot of stuff that can be problematic. I like it for cleaning the insides of my audio gear, glass, metal, plastic, and it's great for getting glue and tape residue off of things. Powerful though. Put it on the wrong material and it will eat it away in a heartbeat. If I can't clean something with IPA, I usually turn to white vinegar or a blow torch.Klein Electrician ShearsI grabbed these off of Amazon for $20 USD as I didn't have a great pair of scissors. Cuts through anything I throw at it (though I haven't tried stone), from plastic packaging (thin and thick) to sandpaper, silicone and fabric. Great for short cuts. For long cuts I would get longer bladed scissors. Amazon reviewers claim it can cut through a quarter.Wooden Cuticle SticksOnly a few dollars for a hundred, about 4" long and beefier than skewers. Just like a chopstick, you can find many uses for these simple tools as they are made of real wood and have a pointed end and a wide flat end. Good for separating cable shielding, scraping gunk out of crevices, lifting a conductor out of a solder joint, bending something small, etc. etc. Cheap and effective.Klein Wire StrippersLove these for stripping the internal conductors of audio cables. Some people don't like them, but I find them fast for that specific task. They work great unless you happen to angle the strippers when you pull off the jacket. Opening them a bit before pulling the jacket helps to avoid nicking.Eclipse 200 stripperThis strange looking tool (looks like a jaundiced, mutant alligator to me) was only $5 and is great for getting the jacket off audio cables. 2 spins and done.Jonard UST-100For a cheap stripper, it does the job. It quickly takes care of RG6 video cable (Belden 1694F). Luckily I don't need to switch the block that lets you do other gauges because it's a pain in the ass to pull out, unless mine is just defective.QtipsProbably high on many of your lists. Great for cleaning all types of things. I use regular cotton swabs from the store and I have 2 big packs of wooden stemmed ones. The wooden ones have firmer tips but can be useful with heavier grime.PanaviseEven with it's crude build, I still like this little vise and am glad I bought it. It holds things steady and gives one a good degree of angular freedom for not too much cash. I got the heavier base attachment which helps a lot. I disassembled mine when I got it, oiled it up and filed away some of the burs. Works way better now and doesn't feel like metal grinding on metal anymore. The plastic jaws are a bit cheap and I'm currently plotting a remodel of them.TackLife Mini Heat GunMy budget was tight so I grabbed one of these instead of a large heat gun. So far it works great. Heats up quick and is excellent for heat shrink and getting annoying labels off of things. I also was able to seal up a plastic bag with it. No complaints for a $20 tool. Like some reviewers, I had a small amount of smoke come out of mine after my first use. Perhaps manufacturing residue? No smoke since and no problems to speak of. The little curved attachment for heat shrink seems to work, but I prefer manually rolling things in front of it for some reason. I do wish it had a grounded power cable, but at least it's polarized and there is no exposed metal that could kill you (at least based on my probing).CallipersI just added one of these to my arsenal and really like it, even though it's a cheap one from China. It was a last-minute purchase so I couldn't afford a great one. For 20 bucks, it's reasonably accurate to withinmaybe2 decimal places on a good day, which is plenty for what I need it for and at least it has a tension adjustment. I don't know how I lived without one for so long, but also understand how useful a better one would be. The fact that I can more accurately measure inner and outer diameters is smile-inducing.Razor BladesGive me any shape and size and I will find something to slice. I love Xacto knives, but I always seem to misplace the handle or the blades. My go-to is old-fashoned rectangular razors with a thick top that come wrapped in cardboard. They just work and are cheap. I occasionally use box cutters and an industrial-looking Uline utility knife that I inherited from my grandfather's workbench. The button mechanism on those things always seem to get worse with age no matter how much you oil them though.My fingersSometimes the ol' fleshy bean pods work better than any other tool. Maybe it's because I really need to feel what I'm doing with certain tasks and an object can't transmit that properly to my nerve endings and a glove blocks too much sensation. I do prefer to work with nitrile gloves to avoid getting chemicals and rust on my skin all the time, or as a light layer of protection, but that won't always cut it. At times I prefer the old reliable boned tentacles.There's a few more bits like pliers, hammer, tweezers, microfiber cloths, steel and brass brushes, zip ties, twisty ties, tooth brushes, steel wool, sandpaper and other bits, but the tools above really stand out to me because I use them constantly, they speed up things that would otherwise be laborious (or impossible) or they just work great for their specific task.I still need to acquire various scopes and a bench power supply, a good screwdriver set, a new power drill, dremel, high-quality needle files, and would love a cable tester and more. Hopefully within the next year I will be able to add these to my growing collection. A proper work area would also be nice, but that will come much later.Curious to hear what your favorites are and maybe learn about some new tools I'm unaware of.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2020, 06:47:32 am
content: From sometime in your 40s and onward, optical magnification, for example, flip up magnifiers, a jeweler's loupe or the acme of them all: a 3–20X, stereo microscope on a boom stand. The last is wonderful at any age.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2020, 11:09:07 pm
content: Quote from: jfiresto on September 28, 2020, 06:47:32 amThis is so true!!A suggestion for getting high quality magnifiers for free or peanuts is to salvage video projectors. At least in the ones I've disassembled there is usually a one or two very high quality lens cells in the projectors. Hard to get too but free. Also in the same vain C-mount lenses used in vision systems are very good loupe substitutes, obviously you need to find the right focal length. If you get the right lens they can be as good as very expensive loupes. I've heard that old lenses for 35mm cameras can also fill the roll.As for a personal "like" tool wise, flush cutter have to be high on the list. Frankly they get used for lots of things beyond trimming leads on a PCB.

author: Zeyneb
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 12:37:06 am
content: Well, I do pretty much agree on the original list of OP.Specifically: Isopropyl alcohol IPA, Klein Wire Strippers (for me the katapult 11063W), Qtips (the foam ones with that medical-green handle color), Digital calipers (one day I also buy a left hand version)What I can add: My flip up magnifying glass (I made a plexiglass guard in front of the glass so when I bump into things the magnifying glass keeps scratch-free), my 3M earmuffs (even without loud noises, helps with concentration, I wear them even while doing the dishes!), little drill vise (great for soldering small objects) and various terminal crimping pliers.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 12:50:39 am
content: I love my T-stripper wire tool, I've had quite a few different wire stripper/cutters and it has been my favorite by far. Also love my Hakko 808 desoldering tool, wish I'd splurged and bought it years before I did.

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 01:39:47 am
content: Quote from: jfiresto on September 28, 2020, 06:47:32 amI had a loupe somewhere. I got it back in college for B&W photography. Probably lost to time now. Great little tools.Yeah, one day when I have enough disposable cash, I would love one of those microscopes, if nothing else than for fun. Right now I'm doing things where macro scale is fine, but the addiction is growing. I do have to swap some caps on old music gear soon where that would come in handy.Quote from: wizard69 on September 28, 2020, 11:09:07 pmVery interesting! I must look into this. I'm a bit of a camera freak as well. I think I have some old CS mount lenses, but they're different. Focal length would definitely make or break it as well as the size and overall shape. I can envision an "octopus" of helping hands (or is it helping eyes?) with various lenses in rubber grommetsI have flush cutters that I like (Xuron, with blue grips) but I have yet to cut a component, so can't really comment. I've been using them to snip the unnecessary bits out of multi-core audio cables and to trim little bits of things, which they do just fine. They snip 24AWG conductors good enough and plastic. They failed with heat shrink so I stick to scissors for that. I bought a much beefier pair of Sata cutters for cutting thick leads and trimming tinned shielding so I wouldn't damage the flush cutters. Thank god I did, because some of the shielding took a good deal of force to cut once tinned.Quote from: Zeyneb on September 29, 2020, 12:37:06 amI will look into the green Qtips. Never used them before. I agree that various pliers help. Too thin or two thick and they can be unwieldy or just not grab right.I have some Hearos ear plugs that I use when I need protection (I think they reduce frequencies by up to 30dB or something), but earmuffs would be much more comfortable. I hate things inside my ears. I don't know how so many people like earbuds. I like 3M products. Their safety glasses are more comfortable than I thought they would be.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 02:14:14 am
content: Parallel PliersThat is, pliers with a parallelogram hinge so that the jaws close in parallel, not on a pivot like most pliers. You can actually grip a nut properly with them, but the thing they find more use for in my house is straightening things: component leads, bent corners of things, edges of cases that don't quite fit right... 1001 uses.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 04:06:17 am
content: Quote from: Cerebus on September 29, 2020, 02:14:14 amThose look incredibly useful, somehow I had no idea they existed. I'll have to buy one.

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 29, 2020, 09:42:38 pm
content: Quote from: Cerebus on September 29, 2020, 02:14:14 amI used to have a pair of these (old ones, probably 30+ years old). Worked great for nuts and straightening. On my list of things to get.Thanks for the reminder. I also forgot about these.

author: KMoffett
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2020, 12:18:58 am
content: During an Annual Performance Evaluation my supervisor asked what was my most useful tool in the shop. I paused a moment, and then tapped my temple. He laughed and gave me a pay raise.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2020, 12:58:20 am
content: Insert obvious joke about being "a tool" here, filthiness level according to personal taste.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2020, 11:06:25 pm
content: If IPA works good, then ethanol will be better (in most cases). I'd look for anhydrous "technical grade" or something similar. 95% is common with 5% denaturant. The denaturant does vary, but some grades use IPA. Home Depot used to sell a version with a huge amount of methanol, like 40%, don't know if they still do but I'd avoid anything with that little actual ethanol.

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 01:41:08 am
content: Quote from: rdl on September 30, 2020, 11:06:25 pmI'll have a look to see what's around. I also make sure to buy anhydrous/medical/scientific grade solvents. I certainly would avoid using store-bought moonshineI initially chose IPA over ethanol because of the skin contact warnings and because IPA seemed to be the standard cleaner everyone was using (I started using it to clean the PCBs inside some of my gear years ago). Haven't looked into ethyl to see if it's that bad for your skin or not. I have read others prefer it for cleaning up flux off of PCBs.That being said, 99% IPA can dry out your skin if you don't use gloves, so if I use it with bare hands I just wash with a good quality soap after and sometimes will rub on some oil.Does ethyl evaporate as quickly or do you need to wipe it off or blow it off with air?

author: thermistor-guy
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 02:04:54 am
content: Quote from: Humanoid on September 28, 2020, 06:05:32 amKimtech (science brand) lint-free wipes, to go with that IPA.

author: WattsThat
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 02:35:13 am
content: A jewelers loupe is an absolute necessity on my bench. Have about 5 of them here and there. And yes, you can use them hands free, just like a monocle. It beats going under the microscope for quick looks.5X is most useful, 10X works when you need it but the depth of field kinda sucks.https://www.amazon.com/Bausch-Lomb-Watchmaker-Loupe-5x/dp/B000OVNM6Y/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/144-0316645-2756139

author: Humanoid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 05:04:55 am
content: Quote from: thermistor-guy on October 01, 2020, 02:04:54 amI tried a box of those a few years ago. Lint galore. It would get all over my gloves. They also shredded easily if the surface had texture.After that I just used microfiber cloths when I had to use IPA for surface cleaning (not on pcbs because they could snag).

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2020, 07:26:12 am
content: Quote from: rdl on September 30, 2020, 11:06:25 pmIs it really that diluted? The cheap consumer stuff I buy(Brennspiritus)is 97% ethanol and specifies the remaining ingredients and their amounts. This is Germany, however, and you can expect that some of the customers practice chemistry.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2020, 04:27:51 am
content: The difference may be from how the ethanol is made not drinkable. US likes adding other noxious solvents, elsewhere things like bitterants are used, of which much less is needed.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 04, 2020, 06:01:31 am
content: The bottle of Velind Brennspiritus I have before me is denatured with 1% MEK, 1% isopropanol and 10 mg/l of denatonium benzoate, that most bitter substance.EDIT: Reading the rest of the label, it is at least 94% ethanol. The ingredients do not list water, but I suppose that is implicitly most of the remaining 0–3%.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2020, 04:16:23 pm
content: Those are often referred to as Bernard Pliers as I believe they originated the design over a century ago. Currently Sargent is the manufacture. In any event yes a extremely handy tool!Quote from: Cerebus on September 29, 2020, 02:14:14 am

author: nightfire
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2020, 08:15:49 pm
content: Ethanol is very hygroscopic and can only be distilled up to 96% ethanol, rest water.I did that in Chemistry (Leistungskurs->masterclass?) here in germany once, to get with additional stuff over that 96%, and it was no fun distilling after trying to get water out via zeolith and some sort of burned chalk...Thing is, sometimes for cleaning optical stuff IPA is better, because though it is still hygroscopic, you can get that in qualities of 99% or better for a decent price. In Germany you also can get Ethanol for chemistry labs in 99,9% p.a. (pro analysi- pure stuff for analytical chemistry), but some small bottle of IIRC less than half a litre will go for 100 €€€ due to alcohol taxes and efforts needed to get the water out.

author: mansaxel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2020, 09:27:22 pm
content: Knipex parallel pliersare my favourite brand.Knipex also make the best flush cutter, theSuperknips.The Kleinscissors, as mentioned upthread, are indispensable.Wihainsulated screw drivers are my preferred brand. I've been through old and new Bahco, Wera, iBost, and finally concluded that I like Wiha the most. I have not dared to try PB Swiss Tools.We (my wife claims them from time to time) have a couple of4mm bit mega-sets from iFixit. Very handy, and at an OK price.Also from iFixit, the Apple styleSpudger.A quite special tool is theHultafors electricians' hammer. I wanted it the moment I saw it, and when I finally found it 2nd hand (it is quite expensive), it's proving to be all I longed for and then some.TheNoga deburrer. It de-burrs. Like nothing else.TheDer EE DE-5000. An affordable instrument with extremely good performance at its price point.

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2020, 09:57:46 pm
content: Always 91% IPA, a toothbrush and lots of cotton swabs.I'm fond of the CK Tools adjustable (and fixed) wire strippers:https://www.arrow.com/en/products/330013/ck-toolsI have a $10 6" digital calipers that I bought at Aldi which does the job (and I hacked the computer interface to it, but never really use it that way).A pin vise (which is like a jeweler's screwdriver) and holds small drills. Plus a cheap assortment of drills and 0.9 mm carbide.OMG, plastic drills! That is, steel drills which have a 0° rake so that they don't "dive" through plastic.Enough mechanic's tools to work on a one ton vehicle (i.e. a vehicle that weighs five tons).Does my Total Phase Beagle 480 USB hardware analyzer count?And I just bought a circular saw with carbide blade.I'm more likely to become a tool nut than to go and buy an 8.5 digit DVM.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2020, 10:16:16 pm
content: Quote from: mansaxel on October 06, 2020, 09:27:22 pmHowever, if you need tohammeran electrician, a 4lb club hammer is more the tool-du-jour, or if you want to get an electricianhammered, this is a better choice:QuoteHowever, it requires learning the right technique - which is very difficult to describe - so don't be discouraged if you're inspired to get one and it makes a mess. Practice and persevere and you'll wonder how you did without one. Damn cheap tool too.

author: jogri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2020, 10:34:30 pm
content: Quote from: nightfire on October 06, 2020, 08:15:49 pmThe main problem with using any form of ethanol (in the form of Brennspiritus) or technical grade solvents for cleaning is that those are heavily contaminated: ethanol has all sorts of additives to prevent people from drinking it (and Bitrex/denatonium benzoate for example leaves stains on glass) while technical grade iPA (also applies for acetone) is just the worst of the worst: You have a process that generates iPA with ungodly amounts of contamination and can't be bothered to clean it? Label it "technical grade".Here's Sigma Aldrich (a major supplier of chemicals) definition of "technical grade" chemicals: "Chemicals that do not have an established standard set for quality and impurity levels or for productswhere the purity is <90%. Variation in color and physical form is possible."Aka: Absolute crap, should only be used as fuel.I have not noticed a significant difference between the cleaning power of iPA and ethanol, but i prefer pure ethanol without a denatuaring agent for the simple reason that it smells better...Btw, ethanol isn't that expensive in germany: One litre of 99.something reagant grade stuff will set you back 10-20€, the only really expensive stuff is the HPLC grade ultra pure ethanol for ~100€/l (and a single HPLC machine can easily go through 10lper day). If you want to make your own pure ethanol just distill it until you get the 96% azeotrope, cool it down and dump in 40-50% volume percent of 3A molecular sieves. Wouldn't recommend that route though as USP medical grade iPA is just as good and can be bought for 10-15€/litre (at least here in germany).Quote from: Humanoid on October 01, 2020, 01:41:08 amIt evaporates a bit faster than iPA, but you shouldn't use evaporation as a method of cleaning in the first place: Solvent dissolves chemicals->solvents evaporates->dissolved chemicals stay behindWash it with a fair amount of solvent or a water/iPA/ethanol mixture or soak up your solvent with wipes if you want to clean something. There is only one instance where it's okay to let your solvent evaporate: Disinfection [and you should use a mixture of 70% iPA/ethanol and 30% water for this as pure alcohols aren't as effective (they have a harder time penetrating the cell membrane)]One thing to add to the list:A selection of different tweezers

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 06, 2020, 10:40:53 pm
content: I second(third, forth?) the Knipex parallel pliers.I have the small pair in my machine shop apron pocket. They come in handy for so many jobs.My most used machine shop tool is probably my Mitutoyo 150mm calipers.On my electronics bench, my favourite things are probably my Lindstrom sharp side cutters. That and my Metcal iron.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2020, 10:54:41 pm
content: In The US, ethanol is readily available as an industrial solvent in anhydrous form, at very good purity (99% or better). It's commonly denatured with a choice of other pure solvents, usually at 5-10%, none of that bitterant crap. The last place I worked we bought it in bulk, usually 2000-3000 gallons at a time. The type we used was anhydrous and denatured with mostly IPA and a bit of MIBK.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2020, 07:22:35 am
content: Quote from: Dubbie on October 06, 2020, 10:40:53 pmOne with a traditional, locking thumb screw orwith a thumb clamp?

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 07, 2020, 10:02:06 am
content: It’s a digimatic so thumb screw. I have to say I have never seen one with the thumb clamp before.For precision measurements I use mics anyway. Or a height gauge on the surface plate depending on what I am measuring

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2020, 01:22:10 pm
content: Quote from: Dubbie on October 07, 2020, 10:02:06 amThey are pretty neat as you do not have to fiddle with a thumb screw before or after the measurement and possibly muck it up. They have a couple disadvantages, however.Because of the clamp, they do not slide as easily as a completely loose, thumb screw clamp calipers.When they clamp, they are either all or nothing. While that assures a good measurement, it makes it hard to set a modest resistance and quickly set the calipers to an exact depth or width.Despite that, I quite like my simple Mitutoyo 531-122.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2020, 02:55:59 pm
content: This evening I discovered a new tool.I need a proprietary camera connector to make up a custom data cable. No one has been able to find good ones in loose form, so I have been scavenging them from camera data transfer and remote shutter cables. To do that, I need to remove the molded-on plastic from connectors like this:I have a tolerable variety of straight and angled miniature electronic component snips and cutters, but I have yet to find anything that did not make heavy weather of it. Until now. Behold, the Fiskars 2921 (190500, 1003874, etc.) spring-action, microtip scissors:Soften the plastic with a heat gun, snip, snip, snip and the plastic is soon off. You may have to hide this puppy or buy another if anyone in the house sews.

author: Smoky
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2020, 04:33:26 pm
content: I second the calipersI use mine everyday for something. Last night I was measuring the stick-out of a BNC pin from a terminator that I broke open.

author: Dubbie
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 07, 2020, 08:56:58 pm
content: Quote from: Smoky on October 07, 2020, 04:33:26 pmJust a small tip - you probably already know this but I have come across many that don't. There are 4 measuring options on calipers. The main inner jaws, the outward jaws, the depth rod, and then finally, if you flip the caliper over and open it, you will see a step between the body/fixed jaw end and the sliding jaw. This is also a precision measuring option. This would be ideal for measuring the stickout on your connector. Place the body of the connector against the end, and slide the jaw up till it just touches the pin.Here is a picture to show what I mean.

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 07, 2020, 11:05:03 pm
content: Quote from: Humanoid on September 28, 2020, 06:05:32 amWhat a good idea!I like my Panavise but I'm always fighting when it gets stuck at points and then never think to do anything about it.The castings are pretty unfinished. Just a little 220 emery cloth took the burrs off.I have the vacuum base. On my Formica desk it works better than just a weighted base.

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2020, 02:12:26 am
content: Quote from: jfiresto on September 28, 2020, 06:47:32 amI was about to say "reading glasses". The pair I got improved my soldering immeasurably. Loupe is much better than glasses when inspecting the work after it is done, but can't really use them while soldering.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2020, 01:13:36 pm
content: Quote from: mansaxel on October 06, 2020, 09:27:22 pmThose aren’t parallel pliers. Those aren’t pliers at all, those are wrenches. They’re not what the OP is talking about.Quote from: mansaxel on October 06, 2020, 09:27:22 pmThey’re OK. But not as nice as the Knipex precision diagonal cutters, and nowhere close to as nice as Erem, which are in a league of their own. Erem’s “semiflush” cutters cut more flush than Knipex’s “super full flush”!!

author: mansaxel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2020, 08:19:18 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on October 08, 2020, 01:13:36 pmCare to enlighten with link or pictures? If there are more kinds of tools around, I probably am going to want them.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 08, 2020, 08:39:00 pm
content: Quick, crappy, photo of my parallel pliers and a hole punch that operates on the same principle:

author: mansaxel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2020, 12:41:11 pm
content: Quote from: Cerebus on October 08, 2020, 08:39:00 pmYes, it is a bit different, but the Knipex can be used (and indeed is!) for many of the same things. The goldsmithing community seem to like the one pictured above for straightening wire and similar and that's something I've done a lot with mine too. Many press-fit applications are a breeze with the Knipex as well.Ultimately, I think I'd want both, of course. Tools, test equipment, you can never have enough.

author: Skashkash
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2020, 05:04:44 pm
content: I find the Hakko Omnivise really helpful for holding PCBs and other workpieces. Looks a little weird, works great.Just wish they were cheaper.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2020, 09:23:40 pm
content: One thing that just came to mind is the flashlight. Due to working on the plant floor a good part of the day, it is a tool I use everyday now. part of that is age but it also has a lot to do with the lack of lighting where the goods are located.Now I use to get really frustrated with flashlight due to leaking batteries ruining so many. This actually drove me to buy a Milwaukee flashlight that works with their 12 VDC system. Some may think that such tools are expensive but I can honestly say it is far cheaper than having batteries leak in your Mag-lites (good flashlights, terrible battery solution). It has gotten to the point that I don't even want a flash light using alkaline batteries anymore.Another item that gets more and more use is a wire ferrule crimper. Initially I was of the opinion that wire ferrules where just silly but they have been proven to be a great improver of electrical connections, especially for extremely fine wires. I now try to use ferrules and a crimper wherever there are setscrew type connections. These days manufactures of transducers and sensors use extremely fine wire in their leads and thus require some bulking up and corralling of those fine wires to install well at termination points.

author: mansaxel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 09, 2020, 10:43:55 pm
content: Quote from: wizard69 on October 09, 2020, 09:23:40 pmLet me yammer on about another Knipex device, then, theAderendhülsenzange. Ferrules are wonderful in and of themselves, but paired with this tool they make you a much better person!

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2020, 12:40:28 pm
content: Quote from: wizard69 on October 09, 2020, 09:23:40 pm(Not to derail the thread.) You're making me jealous and nostalgic.I used to work in large facilities where I spent a lot of times walking between locations.Nowadays most people just sit their butts down in front of a computer.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2020, 01:28:42 pm
content: Quote from: mansaxel on October 09, 2020, 10:43:55 pmFWIW, as someone who has used both, this is a tool where the $15 Chinese copies on Aliexpress actually work just as well as the original. They make a great addition to the toolbox.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2020, 01:29:50 pm
content: Quote from: Skashkash on October 09, 2020, 05:04:44 pmI’d love to see a full teardown of one of those, to see if it can be DIY replicated at reasonable cost.

author: Skashkash
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2020, 04:31:54 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on October 10, 2020, 01:29:50 pmPretty simple construction, The central core does weigh in at almost 1.5kg for stability. Don't really need the knurling. Hard rubber discs glued to washer and core to sandwich and protect workpiece. I'm sure anyone with a lathe could crank them out by the boatload..https://photos.app.goo.gl/eGcn7NvWJBEU3efd8

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2020, 04:58:55 pm
content: That knurling seems more than pointless, it actually seems counter productive. As the central core is only held up on one side by the 'gearstick' slot, it's relying for a good fit and parallelism between the core and the sheath to hold it square and level. Adding the knurling is going to make the fit of the core in the sheath less precise and, as can be seen I think on the photo you liked to, going to wear more against its contact points than a smooth finish would. Odd.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2020, 05:56:13 pm
content: Quote from: wizard69 on October 09, 2020, 09:23:40 pm+1 for ferrules

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2020, 06:01:23 pm
content: Quote from: Skashkash on October 09, 2020, 05:04:44 pmlooks similar....

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2020, 06:21:59 pm
content: Good sales pitch for why 3 might be better than 2- it’s actually a nice quick review

author: mathsquid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 10, 2020, 08:51:45 pm
content: Quote from: wizard69 on October 09, 2020, 09:23:40 pmMy flashlight of choice is a Fenix e15. It's about the size of my thumb, runs on a123 battery that I can recharge with a micro usb cable, and has 4 brightness levels. Level 2 is usually enough for my needs, but level 4 is super bright and can light up half of my yard.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2020, 11:58:01 am
content: Quote from: Skashkash on October 10, 2020, 04:31:54 pmSo it’s actually nothing more than a giant standoff, plus a bolt-action extender?! And for that they want $60 or whatever it is?At school, I asked to do an extra machining session, and need some ideas for things to make. I think this looks like a great candidate...

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2020, 12:04:11 pm
content: Quote from: Cerebus on October 10, 2020, 04:58:55 pmI don’t think precise parallelism matters (it looks like the jaws have rubber in them anyway, and these aren’t intended as anything but PCB holders for hand soldering), and a tight smooth fit could become much, much harder to move if it gets gunked up with flux. The knurling reduces the contact area with the outer sleeve, which I think would help if it gets gummy.

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2020, 12:46:58 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on October 11, 2020, 11:58:01 amYeah, but you want to buy three!I think that the gear shift is bogus.I question whether a circular gripping area is even useful.How about making one out of 1" - 2" square steel stock.Put a square plate on top with a locating pin and stock knob (from your hardware store) with threaded shaft on top.Want more possibilities? Machine one or two corner edges so that the "chord" is 1/4-1/2" long.Of course you glue 3 pieces of rubber on this, bottom, top face, plate.Still, most of the time I want to get under and over the board so that I can solder from the top and solder suck from the bottom.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2020, 03:08:12 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on October 11, 2020, 12:04:11 pmThink of the gripping surfaces as vice jaws or pliers jaws (and yes, they are rubber). I'd want them parallel so that they grip across the whole surface rather than gripping at one point, or along a line, so that they minimise the pressure applied in getting a good grip. Think of things you've marred with a set of pliers that you wouldn't if you'd gripped them in a vice instead. I've seen them illustrated as being used on populated SMD boards, I'd rather grip the whole surface of the highest component (pressing it equally into the board) than one corner or edge of it (torquing it, puling one side up and pressing one down). I'd be looking for a loose sliding fit of a plain surface (shaft basis of C11/h11 or D9/h9 at most), not a tight sliding fit.You're going to have to be pretty messy, and pretty poor at cleaning tools when you've finished a job, to gum something like that up with flux. As apost factojustification for the knurling it's somewhat plausible, but if I'd sat in on a design review of this I don't think it would have got my vote on that basis.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 08:55:43 am
content: Quote from: Cerebus on October 11, 2020, 03:08:12 pmYeah but we aren't talking about massive non-parallelism, just very minor misalignment that'd be well within what the rubber would accommodate. Remember, this thing is mostly just an alternative to helping hands, where alligator clips hold on at any which angle.Quote from: Cerebus on October 11, 2020, 03:08:12 pmBruh, have you seen how some people work?(I work at a vocational training center where groups of apprentices come in for courses. We see the whole gamut.) Regardless, I guarantee that if you were doing lots of hot air rework right at the edge of a board, you'd eventually blow flux off the edge of the board and onto the holder. If it were a really snug, smooth fit, it could become quite difficult to move if sticky flux got in there, making it hard to get apart to clean.Given that knurling is another machining step that adds production time, I doubt they'd be doing it for aesthetics alone, so I suspect they did it for sound reasons. My guess is primarily to provide good grip when tightening.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 01:43:44 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on October 12, 2020, 08:55:43 amMan, you do love making a mountain out of a molehill.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 02:50:18 pm
content: Quote from: Cerebus on October 12, 2020, 01:43:44 pmCome again?You'rethe one who brought up the knurling. Not thatanypart of my replies could even distantly be construed as "making a mountain out of a molehill", unless to you the fact that I didn't prostrate myself at your feet and say "o, dear Cerebus, I apologize for the insolence of disagreeing with you, how many floggings shall it be?" is "making a mountain out of a molehill".

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 03:02:36 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on October 12, 2020, 02:50:18 pmAnd once you've made it you do love digging in it too.You have a tendency to take posts that are tangential, and of minor significance to the main thread, and pick at the details. If you do it to one of my tangential posts I fully confess that I tend to act as an enabler. I thought I'd short circuit that for once.Oh, and a simple scourging will do.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2020, 08:44:46 am
content: Quote from: Cerebus on October 12, 2020, 03:02:36 pmIn all fairness, the details are often really interesting. There’s a lot to be learned or explored in the nitty-gritty of things. I mean, I wanna make a few of these myself, so it’s a decidedly non-abstract question!

author: connectTek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2020, 09:08:06 am
content: My Weller W60D soldering iron.The tips NEVER corrode, last forever.Heats up quick and holds great temperature.Have used it for over 30 years and and still have original tips, barrel and heater.This tool was made to last.

author: IDEngineer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2020, 02:56:31 pm
content: I must vote for two, and most of you will think they're mundane.1) Hakko FR-300 desoldering gun. I was in this industry for 3+ decades before I convinced myself to spend the money on a formal desoldering gun. Now there's no going back. I don't need it every day, but when I do there isno substitute. Say goodbye to solder wick that heat-sinks the needed heat away and makes a giant solder mess. Laugh as you happily throw away those spring-loaded suction "pens" and turkey-baster-like "bulbs" whose tips seem always melted into useless shapes and are always, always too big for the target. A proper desolder gun with a hollow vacuum tip just works. Every time. I've come to using it to clean up after removing SMD devices by "vacuuming" their pads (and with a larger tip, the gun just outright removes smaller size SMD components entirely). Even my 18YO college son loves this tool like no other. It's expensive and totally worth it.2) Hakko 951 soldering station and a wide variety of tips. I'm not brand loyal, I'm sure other stations are equally useful, but I love the ability to swap to a more appropriate tip instead of "making do" like I did for so many years. Sometimes I'm soldering 30ga wire directly to the pads of upside-down leadless SMD devices, and minutes later I'm building an associated wiring harness with 16ga cable and heavy connector contacts. There is no one-size-fits-all tip that does those two jobs equally well, and it's a joy to switch off, swap tips, switch on, and ~10 seconds later be up to temperature and have the proper tip for each job. I just bought two more tips yesterday, in fact, knowing that I'm heading into some very fine SMD breadboarding soon.I have lots more tools that are valuable, but for (1) making a formerly difficult job almost infinitely easier and better, and (2) doing each type of solderingproperlyinstead of trying to fudge everything with a one-size-fits-none single tip, these two (types of) tools really stand out in comparison to how their respective jobs were done before I owned both of them.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2020, 03:10:14 pm
content: Quote from: IDEngineer on October 13, 2020, 02:56:31 pmI totally concur with the value of a desoldering station: there is no comparison! (That reminds me, I still need to buy parts for the used Pace desoldering station I bought a few months ago. It needs a new gasket, and I want more tips!)Quote from: IDEngineer on October 13, 2020, 02:56:31 pmDoes the Hakko require you to shut it off to change tips?!? We use JBC at work, and the stand has notches on it specifically for pulling out hot tips, and indentations for you to press against to insert another tip, since holding them by hand, it'd be burning hot before you got it inserted all the way — all designed around hot-swapping with the station turned on. I think Pace is the same, but I haven't used their cartridge systems yet.

author: IDEngineer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2020, 04:32:27 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on October 13, 2020, 03:10:14 pmStrictly speaking, no - you can swap tips with the power on but the base station will report an error when it notices the tip is missing. I just cycle the power to avoid that.The T15 tips use holders like the one below, so you can remove the tips even when fully hot. It's a matter of seconds to swap them. And the station comes with a handy storage stand for tips that is temperature insensitive, so you can just drop the tips in whether hot or not.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2020, 04:38:05 pm
content: It doesn’t recover from the “no tip” error without power cycling it?Oh, yeah I’ve seen those grips before, I just didn’t realize they came off with the tip!

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2020, 04:43:05 pm
content: The high frequency Xytronic LF-3000 soldering station I have is perhaps not as refined, but since the heat is largely in the tip, I can quickly enough, with bare hands: switch off, uncollar and slide off a hot tip, slide on another (cold) one, collar it and switch back on.

author: IDEngineer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2020, 04:44:20 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on October 13, 2020, 04:38:05 pmIt does, yes, but while the tip is missing it gives a constant beep. And it's my practice to not intentionally put equipment into an error condition. The power switch is right there, no big deal.

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2020, 02:38:30 pm
content: Continuing my project of improvising tools to work on cables with small connectors, here is a precision XYZ third hand I threw together to tack-solder a connector with tangs every 1.2mm:(I cheated and used a microscope.)

author: alanambrose
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 22, 2020, 04:02:06 pm
content: Wow, like it!Another thread on 'specialist tools I've made'? I just saw a Robin Renzetti set of videos on making his 'Versa-Ohm' .... and I thought I was pernickety.