capacitor wizard not working - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: amani
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 11, 2025, 11:28:32 am
content: i have a capacitor Cap1b ( capacitor wizard in circuit ers meter).. which is not working properly . it gives me the same reading for every capacitors i measure. the beeper is not beeping too and as you an see on the photos there are wires missing on the right side of the board ( two wires need to be connected somewhere on the board but i don't know where) can anyone give me some direction.pictures below?

author: ME
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2025, 04:36:22 am
content: were the repairs done using your grannys poka

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2025, 08:25:05 am
content: Quote from: ME on October 12, 2025, 04:36:22 am"better than factory"Honestly, this looks a) being damaged before b) not all damage has been repaired c) done repair looks amazingly awful d) missing components e) missing schematics f) missing history of the damage.Chances of repair, just by looking at the traces: 0%.Update:EEVblog to the rescue:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-quick-teardown-of-capasitor-wizard-esr-meter-a-few-pictures/Update: Seems like OP already found that thread, still posting the same question? The attachment of the speaker wires is clearly visible... Not that I assume this will "magically rescue" this device.

author: MathWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2025, 09:07:51 am
content: IDK this device or if there's a schematic for it, but I'd make my own in a simulator. Then if you have some EE knowledge it should be easier to see what's going on and going wrong.Now I suppose it has a microcontroller, and in a simulator, I'd just put some output signals in place of that. I think ESR meters usually output some small voltage, square wave, at different frequencies, like 100mVpp, at 1kHz.

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2025, 09:36:57 am
content: Just by looking at the PCB traces, I‘d say “Look Mum No Computer“ 🤓

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2025, 10:38:41 am
content: Quote from: MathWizard on October 12, 2025, 09:07:51 amNone of that, actually.Only a comperator and an Opamp, plus a bunch of parts. Outputs a 100kHz square wave (which looks quite good for an all-analog-approach). PCB component side is shown in the linked thread.Still a 328-based chinese tester would be only a fraction of the costs, and likely much more precise. This one looks like an electronics magazine project from the 80s.

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 12, 2025, 03:22:56 pm
content: Well those "repairs" seem quite likely to have shorted traces to the ground plane, so I'd start by cleaning that up and re-doing it.There are good photos of what it should be like in the other thread, including the beeper connections.

author: factory
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2025, 07:55:01 pm
content: If the missing wire "picture" is of the same unit, I'd say the OP has done the interesting soldering.It looks like it's suffered from corrosion, which has got under the soldermask, did it get treated by Duraleak™?Quote from: Haenk on October 12, 2025, 10:38:41 amIt might not be as precisebuthaving seen them in use, these analog units are a lot faster for checking a board full of capacitors than a MCU based one, of course it won't tell you if the capacitor is shorted, but then again my Peak unit failed to tell me a used Sprague can cap was shorted, found it soon after with a DMM when the fuse popped.David

author: golden_labels
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2025, 08:28:49 pm
content: Hey, no shaming for lacking skills, without being constructive at the same time!amani: I agree with others: too much mess already to make a repair a reasonable choice.If you’re inclined to continue: take a loupe, under good light check for shorts. Even in that photo these two wires look suspiciously close. A few joints seem as if there was barely hair thick separation between them (Red A, see the attachment). While at that, check joints quality. For example the one just under bottom wire’s left end. Looks broken to me. (Purple B). There are leftover solder blobs (Green C). Some traces are also completely gone (Blue D).To re-create connections, just use plain, insulated wire. You don’t have to follow the original traces and solder the wire to them. Just connect the joints.If you need to insulate something, considerkapton tape. It’s readily available, is a good insulator, and withstands heat extremely well. For that last reason it may also be used as a masking tape during soldering. Adhesive quality varies, so make sure it has good, clean surface to stick to.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2025, 08:53:11 pm
content: Quote from: golden_labels on October 12, 2025, 08:28:49 pmwire has cold solder joint on the right end...This really needs to be fully redone by someone with at least some basic soldering skills, and some flux. Other traces might be damaged as well, hard to judge.

author: golden_labels
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2025, 09:06:37 pm
content: These “basic soldering skills” can only be acquired by exercise. Why not start with this board?

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 11:40:05 am
content: What a hell of a mess. Who ever worked on this should be kept far away from a soldering iron!Others have given you some good advise. I would start by removing the previous "rework /repairs" and with the help of the schematics and any service manual info that you can find, I would attempt going about repairing damaged traces and replacing the missing ones with insulted wire.I'm of the opinion that this unit could be brought back to life if you take the time and proper approach to this challenge.Good Luck!

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 12:13:28 pm
content: Quote from: golden_labels on October 12, 2025, 09:06:37 pmYou shall not train on your patient. It's not difficult to find another PCB with these THT components - train on this. When feeling safe to do a repair, step ahead to the damaged board.

author: erkko
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 12:17:49 pm
content: Said mess might have been caused by "youre holding it wrong"... It may get guy a bit twitchy indeed, using soldering iron that way.https://c8.alamy.com/comp/KH73J5/young-man-holding-soldering-iron-KH73J5.jpg

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 01:56:42 pm
content: Quote from: erkko on October 13, 2025, 12:17:49 pmNah, he is just creating a cold solder joint.

author: golden_labels
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 03:30:09 pm
content: People, what is wrong with you?! Is this a bullies’ club? There is a human being on the other end of the line.Yes, he lacks experience and messed up soldering horribly. This means he needs guidance to improve, not being turned into a laughing stock.

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 13, 2025, 04:14:17 pm
content: Quote from: golden_labels on October 13, 2025, 03:30:09 pmPeople who work in engineering fields tend to be blunt and factual. I don't think anyone intends to be a bully, but it will quite obvious to most technicians that the first thing to do is tidy up that soldering. Using kapton tape or insulated wire where possible would be a good idea.No feedback at all from the OP doesn't help. They didn't even seem to respond to assistance on the other thread, and just opened this thread asking similar questions.You did a great job of detailing the issues above, not everyone has the time or patience to do that.