Electrolux fridge repair - cap blown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Muaddib
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 10, 2017, 06:00:53 pm
content: Hello all, I'm having trouble with identifying capacitor type that has blown up in fridge. Board that is being used is ERF 2050P...I tried identifying them but markings are faint... It's something like:(A/ or Ac) 10 (some dotted box) K3250 Y2440 X1Text in () means it's hardly distinguishable.The 2 light-brown color in picture.Any link or info would be much appreciated. Thanks.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2017, 08:01:00 pm
content: 250 and 440 are likely the voltage ratings, IIRC X1 is a safety rating for capacitors connected directly to the AC line. Can you tell what they're used for by tracing part of the circuit? They could be just a filter across the line, or it may be a transformerless power supply for the board.

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2017, 08:45:23 pm
content: I don't see anything burnt. You could cut out those two brown capacitors and it would have no effect on the operation of the board. I just got a nice recent dishwasher at town recycling just before it was thrown in the bin. Hit by lightning. I just wiggled the bad parts till the leads broke. I think you have some bigger problems. Doesn't look hard to fix.

author: Muaddib
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 11, 2017, 01:25:13 am
content: Ok, so here is a original pic. I put one before for better reference but you can see it is clearly burnt.As of to what it is connected, it is connected directly to phase and ground as can it be seen from pic... From there it leads to other brown cap, and that other brown cap leads to blue b81130 x2 mkp/sh cap and rest of the board.From what I can tell, these are safety caps and I don't think it would be a good idea to run an appliance without them (shocking and fire hazard). :/So any ideas which capacitance rating could they be? Or any recommendation?Thanks

author: ovnr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2017, 01:44:00 am
content: Quote from: Muaddib on November 11, 2017, 01:25:13 amYes, they are safety caps. Not to make the user safer, but safe in the regard that they will not (...) catch on fire or explode.They're just there for EMI/RFI suppression. The appliance will work fine without them, but I do recommend replacing them.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2017, 02:16:03 am
content: you could remove them and check them with a lcr meter or capacitor testersometimes they are 0.1 uf at 1 kilovolts or even 2.5 kv for this size ...

author: Muaddib
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 11, 2017, 06:01:20 pm
content: Quote from: ovnr on November 11, 2017, 01:44:00 amTrue, it works but I want to replace them as well... Because if it blew, there might be some bigger issue like someone said so I want to be sure (blow another in that case).There was some work on power cord before, and I think that might be the case... But power cord looks OK now so I cant be sure, and I don't want to turn fridge on without that cap.Quote from: coromonadalix on November 11, 2017, 02:16:03 amI can't test them because one is completely burned out and other I don't think can be measured correctly because of proximity to the one that burned out (or am I wrong?) and might have changed the initial characteristics.What I am interested in, is if i want to buy new caps, what should I look for? I mean what's the logic behind deciding what kind of cap goes as X or Y cap in designing?- does capacitance has to be the same OR the bigger the better?- rated voltages have to be same or also ?I'm asking this, because like I said in first post, I know that these blown caps are 440V X1 and 250 Y2 rated... and that's it. Capacitance can't be determined with certainty, at least with my limited knowledge.Thanks guys for time and patience

author: ovnr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 11, 2017, 06:22:50 pm
content: No, these won't blow if something else is wrong.Desolder them all, and take pictures of any markings. Wipe off any soot first.