Toolkit for soldering TSSOP - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 02:58:06 am
content: Well, this is my first time soldering TSSOP, and I want to know what I should get. I currently have a 1.6mm chisel, some crap flux and crap solder. I probably will upgrade the solder + flux, but really want to keep my current tip. ANy suggestions?

author: TheBorg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 04:28:28 am
content: Quote from: echen1024 on November 18, 2013, 02:58:06 amFlux would probably be best to get a better brand of, not necessarily solder but probably that as well. How much is your budget?

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 04:29:20 am
content: I can go up to $50.

author: TheBorg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 04:31:51 am
content: Quote from: echen1024 on November 18, 2013, 04:29:20 amOk, so I'm in the same boat as you actually, a high school kid working on upgrading a lab... lol. I'm actually looking for the same stuff as you, some decent solder and flux for SMD stuff, and some nicer tips. What soldering station do you have? I would say this is totally achievable for under $50 if you already have an iron. Looking forward to an actual EE's or experienced persons answer. What current solder/flux do you have? If it's not too horrible I would say you are probably fine for now.

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 04:35:54 am
content: I currently use some no name flux that, and my solder is Qualitek lead free. It's only one of those small tubes though, so it will probably run out soon. My flux is getting low as well...

author: TheBorg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 04:41:38 am
content: Quote from: echen1024 on November 18, 2013, 04:35:54 amI've heard that 63/37 Leaded solder is actually much easier to learn and use as it has a lower melting point. As long as you are not breathing flux fumes from it, it is actually supposed to be safer than lead freeI use some .015 diameter "silver bearing" solder that I got at Radioshack a few years back for surface mount work. Composition is 62/36/2. Has served me well but I am sure there are better alternatives out there. It was like $5 for a small roll, I haven't used all of it up yet. I'd suggest getting some thicker leaded solder, some thin leaded solder for surface mount work, and keeping whatever lead free you still have left until you use it up. That, and get some ventilation for the desk because the solder fumes are generally the dangerous part of soldering.

author: synapsis
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 04:43:58 am
content: I use a Kester #951 flux pen, Radio Shack .022 diameter 62/36/2 solder, and a really fine conical tip.I solder each pin individually because the goop and solder wick method has never worked for me.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 05:00:20 am
content: When it comes to tip, my personal favorite is blade style tip.Imo its more handy than the popular chisel type, the sharp narrow pointy tip can be used to clean tiny joints easily among tiny pitch pins. The whole sharp head is big enough and very usable for through hole soldering, while the wide and long blade side is suitable touching and dragging the solder along those fine pitch pins IC even at a tight/narrow area, and also with wide and thick blade which has high heat capacity, its very nice for sort of plastering solder work at wide area if needed, very handy all around tip.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 05:07:51 am
content: Get a lead based alloy (63/37 or 6040) from a good company, such as Kester, AIM (American Iron & Metal), Multicore (Henkel), or MG Chemicals.Fluxes come from the same companies, and can be had in various forms; pen, liquid, or paste. Personally, I use liquid in a needle bottle (most economical IMHO). For small quantities, MG Chemicals sells rosin (100ml bottles), though I prefer Kester 186 (smallest container is 1gal though, same for AIM). You can also apply liquid (or paste) with a small brush.Check outSRA for refillable pens, or you can getempty pensyou fill with the flux of your choice (if you want a pen).Should be doable within your budget. Expensive initially, but it should last you a good while (figure ~$30 - 36 for 1lb spool of solder, depending on diameter <smaller diameter tends to be a bit more expensive>, and ~$8.50 - 12.50 or so for flux).

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 10:33:49 am
content: Quote from: BravoV on November 18, 2013, 05:00:20 amI second that. Knife blade tip is my favourite too. With most soldering irons changing tips is time consuming, and I think this one is most versatile.Generally anything down to 0.5mm pitch can be soldered with ANY iron, as long as you have a reasonable flux and thin solder. I use 0.5mm solder wire for general smd soldering. As for a good flux, no fancy stuff is required. Just dissolve some colophony in IPA/methylated spirits/turpentine and off you go. Just clean the board afterwards, because colophony is rather sticky, which is annoying.Very fine conical tips suck bigtime for anything else than soldering 0402 by hand or doing QFP pin by pin. They don't have enough thermal capacity and they can hold very little solder due to small surface.

author: MatCat
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 11:13:31 am
content: I do all fine pitched SMD with basic bridge and wick method, never had a problem with it from crappy radio shack wick and solder to really good wick and solder, all works fine for me. Though I am in the process of building a reflow oven so no more hand soldering SMD's anyway hehe.

author: echen1024
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 10:03:40 pm
content: Well, I will probably purchase a roll of kester 44, a 951 flux pen, and a new tip. I have a Hakko FX-888D. ANy suggestions on the tip? The blade type nor the well type are available.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2013, 04:27:31 am
content: Quote from: echen1024 on November 18, 2013, 10:03:40 pmAs a general rule, check to see if fluxes are compatible before mixing.FWIW, Kester 44 = rosin, 951 = no clean. Some can be mixed, but check the datasheets to be sure. That said, I'd still stick to the same thing to reduce the amount of cleaning (i.e. don't have to clean between different flux formulations).

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2013, 04:33:59 am
content: Quote from: echen1024 on November 18, 2013, 10:03:40 pmJust read the Hakko manual, it has the list of many type of tip styles in there, and I'm assuming you're using genuine Hakko iron & base, suggesting do not buy cheap tip from unknown source like ebay, majority of them are fakes, check this out ->Hakko Tip Fake vs Genuine

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 19, 2013, 06:12:41 am
content: I use a bit of kapton tape to locate and hold the chip in place and, since I make my own boards without soldermask, to mask off the tracks across the ends of the pins while soldering.Quote from: BravoV on November 19, 2013, 04:33:59 am^^ This ^^. I assume the folks who rave about the 'genuine' tips they bought on fleabay for $15/pkt 10 have never used a soldering iron before. Personally I use an Atten knockoff with a Hakko T18-D12 tip for SOIC / TSSOP etc, and solder pretty much pin-by-pin using the end and corner of the tip. I can't quite bring myself to do the whole drag-solder-&-clean-up-afterwards thing...

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2013, 08:33:17 am
content: Drag soldering is pretty easy and safe as long as you are using leaded solder. When you are forced to go leadfree (I assume no one does that of their own free will...) this gets risky, as you can overheat the chip more easily.

author: BravoV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 19, 2013, 08:34:26 am
content: If you can source a cheap & fake iron, it could be handy like this here ->Genuine vs Fake Hakko Heater.The major keys for good performance is using genuine tip + genuine heater. (the base too of course, to have a proper driver and regulation)

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 19, 2013, 09:26:44 am
content: Quote from: poorchava on November 19, 2013, 08:33:17 amYeah, I've done it, but I still find the concept disturbs my slightly old-school soldering sensibilities. As it is, I don't do things with large or many SMD chips so pin-by-pin on a couple of SOIC, TSSOP, or TQFP at a time isn't a problem with flux, good fine solder, a comfortable tip, and a steady hand. And a magnifier these days...I assume dragging works best when there's a proper soldermask too, which I don't have on home-etched boards. If I was working on big projects with lots of tiny packages I'd get probably have boards professionally made and try to overcome my aversion...

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2013, 02:42:39 pm
content: I use kester no-clean flux,electrolube SMF-12P flux pen and amtech RMA-233 ,for solder i use 60/40 .I use a 3mm bevel tip for 90% of all my soldering,down to 0603 ,if you get used to using 1 tip size it can save time and you`d be surprised how much you can solder with a big tip.This youtube video shows how easy drag soldering can be,with practice and good flux .

author: Isamun
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2013, 06:58:38 pm
content: I dont know what the more experienced solderers will tell you, but I have used the 900M series Hakko tips with the FX888 station. They are not officially supported, but I havent experienced any issues.There's somebeveled "spade" tips(Shape BCM/CM) that will make drag soldering a breeze in the 900M series, that isn't available in the T18 series.This and some no clean flux will assist you greatly in these SMT applications.However, if you are just soldering a couple of chips, you will do just fine with almost any tip!