Desoldering advice please: Removing DIP IC's without damage - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Mad Professor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 12:43:16 pm
content: Hi All.I am looking for some help and advice with Desoldering / Removing DIP IC's from a PCB without damaging the PCB or the IC's.I have a total of 7 DIP IC's with a total of 228pins.My current soldering / desoldering tools include: cheap adjustable temperature soldering iron, standard De-Solder Pump (Solder Sucker), heated De-Solder Pump (Solder Sucker), desoldering wick, flux, etc.I don't mind buying extra tools if it makes the job easier and less likely to damage the PCB and or IC's.What would you recommend.Thanks for your time.Best Regards.

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 01:12:52 pm
content: Which "heated desolder pump" do you have? What is the budget for buying additional tools?

author: Mad Professor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 01:22:57 pm
content: The heated De-Solder Pump (Solder Sucker) looks like this:At this point in time I don't really have a budget in mind, as I don't really know the costs of additional tools.So I will just say as a starting point around the £100, but this is not a fixed price.Thanks again for your time.Best Regards.

author: matherp
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 01:58:33 pm
content: It somewhat depends on whether they are soldered with lead or lead-free, single-sided or plate through. Lead-free and/or plate-through are harder.To be really safe I would use Chip-Quik to lower the melting point of the solder on all the pins and then invest in a proper temperature controlled hot-air gun. Set this to say 180C and play it over the legs until the Chip-Quik modified solder softens and then pull out the chips. I clear the holes using hot air to melt the solder and then a blast from a air-gun. Braid sometimes works to clear the holes but sometimes doesn't. Tapping the board on the bench when the solder is molten can also clear the holes.

author: AlxDroidDev
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 02:08:58 pm
content: You might like Dave`s episode #542:It's a desoldering gun station. He was able to desolder entire DIP ICs within a few seconds, with no damages to the pins or board. I liked the video so much, I now want to buy one of those. Apparently, it costs less than £100 in most places.Neverthless, you can achieve good results with what you have. Just don't get the desoldering pump or soldering iron too hot and in the pins/pads for too long and all the ICs will survive perfectly. It's not very productive, ' though, but quite doable.

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 04:31:40 pm
content: Stay away from tools like that heated desoldering pump (third post), they usually have very little suction and it takes time to bring the tip back to temperature between pins. Basically, it's very annoying.Desoldering guns like the one in the post above work great, if you get the technique right. Basically, you may even have to add a bit of solder, then put the nozzle over the pin when it's hot enough, make some small circles with the tip around the pin to detach it from the walls of the hole and then suck the solder. Once you get the move, you desolder one pin in 2-3 seconds.Just remember to not desolder pins sequencially, as you may overheat the chips or the board if you put heat in the same region, jump from side to side of the IC.Unless you have high quality wick (with built in quality flux), stay away from it, it's more hassle than it's worth otherwise. I've bought cheap solder wick and hated it so much I almost gave up on using wick until I borrowed a quality (expensive) one with good flux in it. Makes huge difference.What I would do is apply a bit of liquid flux over the pins, then optionally (if I feel it's needed, if there's very little solder in the first place) add a bit of solder to each pin (doesn't matter if it's lead free or not), then go with the iron and heat the pins and use a regular quality solder sucker to suck the solder. I have an aluminum one with a long spring, which makes a lot of suction.... and if you want you can improve it by adding a tiny bit of silicone tube over the existing tip, the silicon will tolerate the heat well and last a long time.

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 05:25:07 pm
content: +1 to chip-quik if you dont want to damage either the board or the ICs, with that many chips, thats the best way to slope the odds in your favor. If youre board has generously sized plated though holes (or is single sided) then you can probably do it with wick and suckers, etc. But if it is even somewhat tight, youre going to get a pin that doesnt want to clear out fully etc. If you absolutely have to save the board, cut the pins on the IC, if you absolutely have to save the IC, cut the board, if you need both, things just got a bit harder :p

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 06:08:13 pm
content: Nothing makes life easier than a decent Pace desoldering tool, but they are expensive. Even then you'll sometimes need to use wick as a supplement on stubborn holes, especially if some leads were initially bent to hold the chip in place prior to soldering.

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 06:23:45 pm
content: For quick and easy, I'd go with a vacuum desolder tool first. Hot air can be very effective, too. Chip Quik works, but is slower, messier, and fiddlier.Whichever method is chosen, find some scrap boards and practice first.

author: bookaboo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 06:51:06 pm
content: I've tried loads of heated desolder tools including the one in Dave's video linked above. I've yet to find a better solution than hand desolder pump then take the rest off with wick.

author: Aodhan145
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 06:56:31 pm
content: You can use desolder braid to remove the solder then just pull on the chip with a set of pliers.

author: fivefish
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 08:15:32 pm
content: Hakko 808like soldering in reverse....

author: bookaboo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 08:37:03 pm
content: Quote from: Aodhan145 on December 31, 2015, 06:56:31 pmI find it best if you can remove enough solder that you need very little mechanical force, often the pin just needs "freed" to the middle of the hole after all the solder is removed.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 08:44:54 pm
content: Having recently desoldered a pretty decent batch of through parts done with lead-free solder, I can put in two cents on a solder sucker. For years, I often added a little flux and/or some low melt-point bismuth solder to the joints prior to desoldering. But after some recent experimentation, I changed my algorhythm. If there's enough of a bead to give good contact to the iron, I would leave it alone. With this lead free stuff, it may very well LOOK like the bead isn't completely flowed, even when it's completely melted. With some experimentation, you can find out how long it takes your iron to melt the joint. Even though you can't really see it, and the joint looks cold on the other side, I find it clears just as easily. Any added solder will add fresh flux, and flux is what clogs up the tool. Flux plus solder dust = cement. A good sucker will clear the holes faster and with much less maintenance if you can clear them as is.If you don't melt the entire bead, you will screw it up and the hole won't clear. Then you will probably have to add some solder to get a good thermal contact. And you may think it will save time/effort to flux up the joints, because you can see the joint reflow. But it you have a big pile of parts to do, you can figure out what temp and how long to hold the iron to breeze through the pile without stopping to clean the sucker, even without this visual indicator.There is a big difference between a good solder sucker and a bad one. If you want a good one, I suggest anything by Edsyn, or one of the many clones of their original Soldapult.

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 09:08:42 pm
content: Quote from: fivefish on December 31, 2015, 08:15:32 pmHakko 472D here, but pretty much, yes. Yesterday I replaced a soldered-in flat flex cable, two 8-pin SIP arrangements. It took longer to heat up the desoldering station (three minutes) than to actually do the unsoldering. Worth the time, though. The last time I used an iron to heat and pull header pins out, I tore off some pads without even noticing.It does vary some from board to board. More layers make it tougher, and some old boards have particularly sludgy lead-free solder that needs flux or more solder or both.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 09:13:43 pm
content: Quote from: AlxDroidDev on December 31, 2015, 02:08:58 pm+1, I have this and it works well. If you decide to get one, I would suggest you practice with it on a throwaway board to get the feel for using it. I lifted pads on the practice board until I got the hang of using it. Make sure you keep it clean.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 09:26:41 pm
content: Another tip: if you have an awkward board that won't sit still and can't be easily clamped in a vice, get your glue gun ready. Temporarily glue the boards to you bench and use alcohol to remove the glue, after.

author: Mad Professor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 09:29:04 pm
content: Thank you for your replies.The PCB in question is the main control / interface board from a CNC Lathe, "LCB3 (c) 1990 GSM-Syntel LTD".I am in the process of upgrading the Lathe with more modern hardware and software, but it seems that GSM-Syntel LTD have long been out of business.I will upload some pictures of the PCB in the morning.Thanks again.Best Regards.

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 09:37:31 pm
content: Quote from: bookaboo on December 31, 2015, 08:37:03 pmYes, this.I remove a lot of parts from old PCBs, just pulled a couple of DIP ICs off one yesterday in fact. I am using just solder braid and flux pen more and more these days, although I do have a sucker as well, and some ChipQuick in the toolbox for many-pad SMDs,as well as a hot air station. But for through-hole DIPs, I take some braid, run the flux pen on it from both sides, and then use the iron, slightly hotter than for actual soldering, to run the braid slowly along the chip's pins, moving to fresh braid for each pin. It's amazing how the solder just runs up into the braid. Often just one application will remove all the solder from a plated through-hole and pin. Then I sometimes use a small screwdriver to push the pin to the middle of the hole, as suggested above, to break that last little bit of adhesion. The screwdriver will also be used as a "prybar" to raise up the chip and free it from the board. Sometimes it will free first on one side or end; a bit more heating with the iron will free up the remaining pins. Then a careful straightening with the fine-tipped pliers to get the pins back into shape. Clamping the chip in the Panavise and then hitting the pins with iron+braid+flux again to remove ugly residual solder is a last step.Sometimes it helps to add some lead-tin solder first, which seems to help flow the lead-free junk and make it easier to wick or pump up.I do suggest practising on unimportant chips first -- I've had a _lot_ of practice myself.But then I mostly deal with 20 pins/chip and under.For big components like flyback transformers off TV/CRT monitor boards, I use a monster heat gun of the type used for removing paint, but in those cases I care not about the board itself or adjacent components.My braid, flux pen and sucker:

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 09:51:44 pm
content: ^That sucker is the reason you use braid. I went through two of those things. Used them for many years before finding out how crappy they are. Use a real sucker, don't add flux, and the part will not need any prying. If it doesn't fall out by itself, just pulling on it with your fingers will be enough to get it out! And you will get it done, faster.

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2015, 11:22:12 pm
content: Quote from: KL27x on December 31, 2015, 09:51:44 pmWell, everybody's got an opinion, I guess. And while you were expressing yours, I made a video demonstration using the braid+flux, removing a 28 pin chip from an old board. Perhaps it took about as long as it would have taken you with your Real Sucker -- and all the solder wound up in the braid, easy to cut off and dispose of, without having to take something apart, clean it and reassemble it. Of course the solder braid costs money that you aren't spending when using your Real Sucker -- I used about 18 cents worth to remove the chip. I'm guessing I probably would be able to remove a couple hundred 28-pin chips for the cost of a Real Sucker.I'll be posting the video to YouTube as soon as it finishes processing.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2016, 01:20:30 am
content: The other way I have that works well, a set of metcal tweezers with big bits in either side, can comfortably heat every pin of a 16 pin DIP at once. It's worth adding some fresh leaded solder to ensure a good contact all round. Contact for three seconds and pull it out gently but firmly. You'll need to clean the board up afterwards.

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2016, 02:08:16 am
content: Another vote for the Hakko 808 or FR-300. The 808 has been discontinued, however if you had the option to buy either one brand new I can definitely recommend the FR-300 being worth the additional cost. The form factor (no base unit) makes them very compact and portable - the FR-300 is significantly more comfortable to use. I would only recommend other units w/ base stations if ergonomics was a serious consideration i.e. when working at the same bench 40+ hours a week and performing mass desoldering.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2016, 03:47:13 am
content: Just a tip on solder wick: the MG Chemicals wick (as shown in the photo above) is AWESOME. It uses much finer wires than any other wick I've tried, which turns out to create superior thermal transfer and capillary action. The fact that it's rather cheap on Amazon.com is just icing on the cake.

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2016, 07:43:26 am
content: Quote from: tooki on January 01, 2016, 03:47:13 amYep, and with some added flux from the flux pen it works even better.(Hey, it's not a "Dave" video or a Rossmann video, but it is what it is.)

author: rodpp
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2016, 01:12:12 pm
content: Quote from: alsetalokin4017 on January 01, 2016, 07:43:26 amThanks for post this video, very good video quality and dessoldering technic.I purchased recently a Weller rework station, used it only one time yet, but the thing is impressive. It seems that I always used the wrong tool for the job.

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2016, 03:07:56 pm
content: Quote from: alsetalokin4017 on January 01, 2016, 07:43:26 amActually, it does not look like the wire is as small or it absorbs solder as quick as the stuff I use. That used to be Tech Spray 1803-5F, but then I found a deal onPhilips wick at Jamecowhich is about the same. Additional flux has not been necessary with either. Since posting that thread, I've continued to use that Philips wick, and really have no complaints. It might leave a trace more flux residue to clean up than the Tech Spray, or that could be my imagination.These ultra-fine, wider wicks do not work as well on irons lacking a high heat capacity. There is a .050-inch version of that stuff, which is still very cheap (but not as cheap as the 100-foot roll of .100) which could be better in that case.A desoldering station would still be my choice for removing stick-through ICs without damage. At least for my station and usage, It's a lot less likely to lift a pad.

author: dom0
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2016, 05:15:46 pm
content: Haven't used solder wick or a solder sucker on something through-hole since I got the DSX80. Nul complaints/issues.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2016, 05:52:52 pm
content: Quote from: wblock on January 01, 2016, 03:07:56 pmThe one in the video doesn't look as fine as what I have from MG.So I pulled out my 1:1 macro lens and took some pix of all the wicks I've got laying around (the width of the frame in real life is 23.6mm, and thus all images are to scale).The MG .050" (#2) wick (which I only just got) is definitely not as tightly woven as the .075 (#3) and .100 (#4) which I've been using for longer. Nonetheless, all of these have the tightest weaves of any of the wicks. These are MG "Super Wick", cat #442/443/444. These work really well, and I've never felt the need to add flux.Next is a #4 Chemtronics Soder-Wick 40-4-5. This is a lead-free version, and the flux in it stinks when heated. :/Then there are (obscure?) SES brand #2 and #4 wick I got from the local mom-and-pop electronics shop.And finally, a Swiss-made Spirig 3S-Wick #2 braid, which I hate because it's woven so loosely that it tends to fray easily.Of all of these, I find the MG to work the best, the Spirig the worst, though none are bad. (Not like what I've heard about counterfeit Goot-Wick from fleabay.)

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2016, 05:54:36 pm
content: And here's some comparison pix.

author: alsetalokin4017
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2016, 07:13:46 pm
content: Here's a comparison that makes sense to me:Weller DSX80 Amazon price: $249.61 plus shipping.5 feet of MG #424LF 0.050 wick price: about 5 dollars.(And the wick takes up a lot less bench space !!)

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2016, 07:35:10 pm
content: QuoteOn a board that is clean of flux residue, you can desolder scores of chips like that without cleaning the sucker. Loads. You need to clean a solder sucker when the nozzle gets clogged by flux and solder and starts to grab/trap the steel clearing rod. Sans some extra flux on the joints, this takes a long time to happen.And when it does, the good devices are very quick and easy to clean. Your sucker screws in/out and a spring covered in solder dust pops out. The Edsyn designs have a captive spring that does not get dirty because it pulls from behind the gasket. You open it with a half twist and tap it over the trashcan. The most time is spent to clean the end of the steel rod and/or the interior of the nozzle, which takes a minute.QuoteYes, it's just my opinion. And watching your video reaffirms my opinion. I would use that technique in a pinch. But solder wick + thu hole go together about as well as peanut butter and caviar. A $15-20.00 Edsyn solder sucker is faster and easier. It gives less thermal stress to the part and the pcb. And it gives better results (cleaner holes and a part that often drops out under gravity).Solder wick is better than a sucker for cleaning pads and pins. It doesn't touch a sucker on thru holes, if you use a real sucker. Your opinion might change if you retired your sucker to the trashbin where it belongs.My dance card is full for the day, but I should like to post my own video when I get the chance. Maybe tomorrow.QuoteThe soldering techniques I use, I quite often use a large bevel tip and a "flux board," which are perfect for using and fluxing up a solderwick. I'm not an expert with solderwick. I don't use it very often. But I have recently been playing with it more often, having recently bought a roll of Chemwick after seeing it recommended on the forums a few times. I am reasonably confident I'm giving solderwick a fair shake. Moreso after watching your video.

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 01, 2016, 08:17:14 pm
content: Quote from: Mad Professor on December 31, 2015, 01:22:57 pmThe look like a slightly modified version of a Hakko tool I've had since the early 90s. I have used it to remove many small and large DIP packages, various large segmented LCDs, and other through hole devices with many leads. I don't remember ever damaging either a PCB pad or the lead of a device. Used with a suitable wiggling action, that is quick to master, its extremely effective, and pretty quick to clear all the holes.

author: timofonic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2016, 03:31:45 am
content: Quote from: alsetalokin4017 onYesterdayat 06:43:26 PM>Quote from: tooki onYesterdayat 02:47:13 PMYep, and with some added flux from the flux pen it works even better.(Hey, it's not a "Dave" video or a Rossmann video, but it is what it is.)Notice: I'm very probably the worst sold(i)er and the worst electronics student in the world. I solder a zillion times worse than most of you, these days my hands are full of damage because of my horrible soldering technique and that's because my "amazing" psychomotor skills and other shit.Aren't you applying too much heat at the same places by too much amount of time? I'm always scared of that, to the pount of touching pins and burning my hands to avoid the chips to damage a lot (so I'm some kind of masochistic heat sink), I know I'm very insaneSolder wick is okay, but a bit rude when looking it near. But it's better for some stuff and definitely usable in comparison with my shitty equipment.I'll look at that brand, it looks better than the shit I use at the vocational school. Ans the pen is very handy in comparison to the classic "nail polish" bottle. Is it a total replacement? How does it work? Can you recharge the pen with flux? Is the flux usable for SMD too?I want to get hot just a heatgun and a soldering station, but a desoldering station or DIY one on top of the soldering station. My hands and sanity need it!Just a note about solder suckers:Solder suckers destroy my fingers. It's very annoying! I'm not the most precise person and I know I would need to use good tools instead being an artisan, but I'm unable to use these SUCKERS without having annoying fingers damage and sometimes even more than that.I know my tendencies to use more force than needed in certain tasks, that's why I use clicky keybords or my hands hurt too.

author: fubar.gr
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 02, 2016, 09:15:14 am
content: DIP packages and pin headers can be a royal pain. Having a desoldering station like the ZD985 can be a real life saver.I personally use the similar ZD915 station. I fire it up even when I want to desolder a single component. It works cleanly and quickly, with very small chances of damaging something.Here's a video I made of the ZD915 station.Unfortunately it's not in English, but here you can see me desoldering a DIP from an old ATX PSUhttps://youtu.be/PBSwKepUcpw?t=335Here I'm desoldering a capacitor from an old PC motherboard.https://youtu.be/PBSwKepUcpw?t=581The temp was set to 340 and it failed to suck all solder, so I added some more and tried again with the temp set to 420And here I'm trying on a SATA connector:https://youtu.be/PBSwKepUcpw?t=717

author: bookaboo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2016, 12:00:36 pm
content: Fubar I had an identical unit and I found it clogged constantly, then when disassembled for cleaning it was a real pain to put back together. Of course there's a chance I was doing something stupid but I've tried several of these types of units and found them all more hassle than they are worth.Do you find it works on tough tasks like desoldering pins directly attached to large ground planes? That's where I found it really struggled.

author: fubar.gr
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 02, 2016, 01:18:50 pm
content: Quote from: bookaboo on January 02, 2016, 12:00:36 pmThe tip has a huge thermal mass, it can melt pretty much everything, ground plane or not. It might have problem melting components with small pads/pins, but this is mostly because there's not enough contact area between the component and the tip. Adding some solder beforehand can help.I haven't encountered any clogging. If it does clog, simply use the included cleaning rods and it's good as new.Some things that are annoying:1) There's a rather loud fan in the main unit that runs constantly. Dave's model doesn't seem to have this fan2) When the temp is set above 380C, the pistol grip will become uncomfortably warm after a while.3) Cleaning the solder catching spring can be tough and messy. Some people have ditched the spring entirely and put a small piece of cotton instead. When finished, they simply throw the cotton away.4) Swapping tips is not easy. You have to wait at least 10-15 minutes until the tip is cool enough to handle. If you deal with a lot of different sized components the downtime can be a PITA.5) Sometimes the screw nut that holds the tip in place comes loose and the tip flaps around. Probably due to the thermal expansion of the different types of metals used in the tip assembly. Tighening it again by hand is impossible, it's too hot. You need to have a pliers handy.On the plus side, it is cheap, it gets the job done and spare parts are cheap and readily available.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2016, 07:08:10 pm
content: My ZD 915 didn't come with the densely coiled spring trap. It came with a loose coil spring and a cotton disc. And also there's a tiny rubber disc gasket that falls out when you take it apart. So there are at least 3 tiny parts to deal with when you disassemble it, not including the glass tube. The most annoying part is the tiny black rubber gasket.I had the same problem of clogging, initially. What I learned is to turn the temp up way higher than I initially thought prudent. Also, to clear it, I find a piece of piano wire with a little bend at the very end, chucked in a hand drill, to be effective to clean the gun, cold or hot.Also, I have learned that rosin flux is the last thing you want to be sucking up through a desoldering gun. I don't use any, if possible. I should try some kind of inorganic flux for desoldering. But for the most part, I find adding any additional flux unnecessary for desoldering.

author: Mad Professor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2016, 07:18:45 am
content: Sorry for the delay in my response.I would like to thank everyone for there advice.In the end I brought a Duratool D00672 Digital Desoldering Station, it was the closest I could find locally and within my budget.It did not take long to get used to it, and remove all the required ic's.I have also used it since with other boards, I wish I had brought one a long time ago.Thanks again.Best Regards.

author: Capa-Alpha
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2016, 11:16:30 pm
content: PACE SX-100 Desoldering Handpiece is the best!See

author: Mosaic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2016, 06:58:52 am
content: I use Hakko 880 for heavy joints and solderwick on ICs like DIPs or SOICs. For smd parts & BGAs or TQFPs you'll need hot air to about 280°C. I never tried the chip quick bismuth solder as an approach to drop the desolder temps yet. I add flux and fresh solder sometimes first.

author: McBryce
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2016, 09:06:32 am
content: A cheap trick I use: If you are worried that all the desoldering and poking around with braid will damage the IC (which is entirely possible), put one of these clips on the component top side contacting all the pins before you start. Not only will it give you added ESD protection, but it also works as a temporary heatsink to keep the temps in the IC to a minimum.Clip:https://image.freepik.com/free-photo/metal-paperclip_2475815.jpgMcBryce.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2016, 01:29:07 pm
content: Do you notice any negative effect on desoldering itself? I mean, does having that huge heatsink draw away heat? (I could envision too much heatsinking drawing away so much heat that the desoldering takes much longer, being worse in the end.)

author: McBryce
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2016, 02:16:03 pm
content: No not really. I think the pin acts as a bottleneck for the heat. It's definitely not like when a huge ground plane is directly connected to the pad. The chip still gets hot, but not nearly as fast as it would without the clip.McBryce.