Advice on workbench bench tops (Canberra Region) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: sausage
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2021, 01:24:49 am
content: I'm looking to replace my old junker desk and build a decent workbench.Considering a 2400mm x 700mm laminated top. White, but that doesn't matter too much. Thickness is not critical either.I don't know where to source the bench tops that are at least 700mm. I can get 600mm from Bunnings but nothing deeper. I also see kitchen top places but they cost a fortune and are probably more than I need.Any suggestions of the types of places that deal with workbench tops? Especially if you are in the Canberra region.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2021, 02:30:58 am
content: My current bench was a horrid lumpy 'shed' workbench I glued 6mm Cork floor tiles to and then clear coated. Medium sized static mat on top for the electronics work area. With width I sorted some of that by making shelves above the bench so I can make the 700mm wide space work. Otherwise 700mm is bordering on to narrow IMO.Also take a look into this large thread for ideas (177 pages)https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/whats-your-work-benchlab-look-like-post-some-pictures-of-your-lab/msg2577009/?topicseen#msg2577009Even with limited woodworking skills benchtops are not that hard to put together. So take a look at a 'cheapish' tracksawhttps://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-165mm-1200w-plunge-track-saw-kit_p6290615to help getting straight cuts then you can get away from the width limits and strip 1200mm wide full sheets to width and length. Then glue and screw some hardwood edge onto the sheet to finish it. The Tasmanian Oak Bunnings carry works well sand the sharp edges off and your sorted. Plenty of surface options but I like formply (concreting ply) for shelves as shown above, easy clean and an ok look with no painting or finishing needed.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2021, 02:58:56 am
content: IKEA?https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/skarsta-desk-sit-stand-white-s59324818/

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 13, 2021, 03:06:20 am
content: Mine is an Ikea with an extension of the rear edge (750 + 350 extension) , pretty bodgy job mind you 😜, the big problem with Ikea is that the table surfaces are mostly compound materials ie mostly air! - it holds well as one piece but I wouldn't cut it significantly.

author: sausage
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2021, 03:11:24 am
content: Thanks @beanflying, I'll pick through that thread. That'll be a nights reading.The construction won't be a problem, I've got a circular saw and straight edge setup. I like your cork idea too. Yes, I did wonder if 700mm may not be deep enough. I can edit my design to go 800mm, and I think I'd be happier with that too. Good hint there.Thanks @Alex Eisenhut. The only issue with Ikea is that in 1999 I vowed never to darken their doors again. Can't break that streak.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2021, 03:14:49 am
content: Extend the surface along the back edge with a contiboard or similar melamine clad shelf board, supported along each long edge (but not fixed down), over a cable management tray. The board should be cut in sections so you can lift one for access without disturbing everything on your bench. Because the span is only the width of the board, it can be much thinner than the worktop and still plenty strong enough.Way back when, I built approx 50' of workbenches for a TV repair shop that way.

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2021, 03:44:21 am
content: Quote from: sausage on March 13, 2021, 01:24:49 amTry walking into a few workshop/factories advertising kitchen/cabinet building. They will generally have a wall of odd and ends cutoffs etc from previous jobs that get used for these sorts of bodges with less exact requirements.Be flexible on what the colour/thickness/etc is or be prepared to pay full price for a whole new sheet.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2021, 01:56:29 pm
content: There are so many ways to come up with a bench top that I could write a book. Some ideas:Solid core doors are a good choice for something quick.A good cabinet making shop, doing kitchens or work benches should be able to glue up any width bench (within reason) that you could want. Go straight to the shop to avoid the middle man lumber yard. HOWEVER solid wood bench tops can suffer from distortion due to differential expansion with changes in humidity if one side of the bench is covered.You can DIY a bench out of all sorts of wood sheet goods products. If you lack tools get the home center to cut to the proper width. A word of caution though, sheathing grade plywood will leave you dissatisfied.One approach I've taken for benches is to buy a high quality sheet of Plywood. For example no void under lament grade, Exterior grade, MDO or similar. I buy 3/4" think sheets and then glue 1/2" particle board on each side. The particle board on each side helps keep the core sheet stable (whatever is on the top should also be on the bottom). The 3/4" plywood core holds screw really well, so you don't give up on mechanical capability. Just remember whatever you do on top you should duplicate on the bottom.You can buy penetrating epoxy sealer to help make particle board, hardboard and other material more stable and somewhat harder. None of these material respond to water ingress wellFormica or similar laminates on top can make for a tougher water resistant surface. It actually works out well for many users. By the way counter top and kitchen contractors can build with these materials to your spec. Again avoid the "home centers" and look for actual fabricators.The price of wood products has sky rocketed around here over the last year so you really should consider solid surface tops. That is plastic tops. With the cost of wood materials so high you might want to consider all sorts of alternatives.Visit office supply store handling used equipment. Some of the available office furniture is of very high quality. You can use as is or repurpose something with the ideal top size.Some other points:Strong legs are important don't accept a wobbly bench.You will want a lip around all 4 sides that easily accept clamp on devices like lamps. So avoid making your bench too thick on the sides. I made this mistake once so a hard learned lesson. I wouldn't go much over 1-3/4"thick around the outside edges and make sure there is reasonable depth.If you are going to DIY make sure the front top and sides have a generous round over to prevent a sharp edge creating fatigue. Laminate tops don't do well like this though.Ovoid the temptation to put drawers under the bench top, this especially on the shorter benches.A stringer under the bench for foot support is a good idea. It should be adjustable.You can never have enough outlets.Lockable wheels, if you can build a strong frame is a a good idea, especially as you get older. That is make the bench easy to move about, but also stationary when it needs to be.These days you may want to consider a PC monitor at the center of the bench.

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2021, 02:13:43 pm
content: Quote from: Someone on March 13, 2021, 03:44:21 amThis is a very good idea. Such shops should be able to beat the home center prices and have access to better materials. Suitable cutoff may be hard to find so it is also a good idea to have a sketch of what you want so that you can get them to quote a table top. The trick to dealing with such people is to avoid wasting their time, that means being ready with a set of specs for what you want. If you walk into such a shop with no good idea of what you want, they will charge you far more for bothering them.By the way this just reminded me that there are shops around here that will do extruded aluminum builds for clients. Part of that sort of work is often specialized benches for industry. You will end up paying more as that aluminum extrusion is not cheap but they should have nice non metallic table tops available. However with a little thought you can design in posts for your equipment shelves. Probably not the low budget approach.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2021, 02:17:10 pm
content: Yeah I get the IKEA hate. I got my desks from Craigslist and Habitat for Humanity. The famous Jerker and not so famous Fredrik. Both are long discontinued.The Jerker is an industrial beast and the surface is definitely not air.And I like saying Jerker.

author: iainwhite
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 13, 2021, 02:21:50 pm
content: I built my own with 2 pieces of 3/4" ply sandwiched together to form a 1-1/2" thick top.I can go into more detail if you want - the construction requires some woodworking skills.Couple of pictures here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/whats-your-work-benchlab-look-like-post-some-pictures-of-your-lab/msg1183176/#msg1183176

author: wizard69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2021, 05:12:49 am
content: That is one nice bench!One other thing I just saw else where is that a guy was using billiard table felt for a tool box. It appears that the felt was used. This might be good for a bench where you don't want to mar things, maybe not so good for a bench where a lot of soldering will be done. That is a bench oriented to repair.Also most business involved in marketing tool boxes to mechanics will have rubber mats for their roll around cabinets. A mat of any type can cover up a lot of sins as far as table tops go.Quote from: iainwhite on March 13, 2021, 02:21:50 pm

author: twospoons
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2021, 05:18:32 am
content: I laminated two sheets of 18mm MDF for my bench. With MDF its a good idea to add a solid timber edge, and plenty of urethane sealer. Makes a very smooth and solid surface to work on.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2021, 05:25:48 am
content: Quote from: twospoons on March 15, 2021, 05:18:32 amSeveral coats of Shellac works too. This surface is then Beeswaxed for woodwork use but Urethane would be tougher for a more mechanical use bench. 600x600 two layers of 18mm MDF and Tassie Oak edges. General use is with my Tracksaw for quick repeat cross and mitre cuts. Base is a tip up Cafe one as I had one spare.

author: sausage
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2021, 11:21:36 am
content: Wanted to say thank you to everyone for your advice here. I went though many benches on the "Show me your workbench" thread. Enough to realise everyone is doing anything and everything.I'll be visiting some places to see what's out there.Some lessons learned:1) It doesn't have to a solid single slab. In sections is fine. But the coating might be another mission. But I'll see what's eventually available.2) Anti-static mat... I need one and that will be the primary work area.3) Stick with my own solid wood frame design (I'll share this around once done)Extra thanks to beanflying for the insight to his design and also to wizard69 for all his tips. I have actually considered my bench mounted light in the design, so making sure the lip on one side is not as deep.This has helped me enormously, thanks everyone.