Just got my "new"  multimeter ... the family become larger ..  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2010, 12:37:50 pm
content: Its all about sharing happy moments, than bragging ..I am the winner of my first broken, bench top DMMFluke 8012A bench meterThe price that I got it, was better than an Lotto ticket , and I feel more than capable ,to repair this " oldie but Goody " .The display are ok , its does not power on .. and no one ever tried to repair it !!This is very important , if you buy dead ones , with the plan to repair them..Here is a picture of my preview pile , and the " New " child of myNow I have to re-vote at the DMM Poll

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2010, 02:24:44 pm
content: I'm sure you'll enjoy fixing it. Keep us posted with your progress, if possible take pictures of the procedure.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2010, 10:17:23 pm
content: Thanks friend, I will do post pictures, as soon I receive it, and start the repair ..Even so , Now I need to collect any resources about it , schematics and stuff.If any one have any useful links about the Fluke 8012A bench meter ,feel free to add them ..

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2010, 10:37:49 pm
content: Users manual and more from Fluke:http://assets.fluke.com/manuals/8010A___umeng0200.pdfhttp://download.siliconexpert.com/pdfs/2009/5/10/7/53/45/fluk_/manual/8012a.pdfhttp://us.fluke.com/Fluke/usen/Support/Manuals/default.htmCalibration manual:http://www.tpub-products.com/subscribers/Electronics/Electronic_Calibrators/TB-9-6625-2277-35.pdfDeclassified US Armed Forces version:http://www.tpub.com/content/electroniccalibrators/TB-9-6625-2277-35/TB-9-6625-2277-350002.htmEnjoy.Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on June 18, 2010, 10:17:23 pm

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2010, 10:43:05 pm
content: Quote from: saturation on June 18, 2010, 10:37:49 pmFaster than lightningThanks mate ..The TPU needs password ..

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2010, 11:07:18 pm
content: Interesting, the TP link was open and free when I read it; sorry I aborted the pdf download.The military version is HTML and still free and open. Get it while you can!Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on June 18, 2010, 10:43:05 pm

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2010, 11:08:42 pm
content: Found it here ..http://pdfaz.com/*tb-9-6625-2277-35-8466063.pdf

author: Excavatoree
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2010, 04:39:44 pm
content: Be careful. That's how I started.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2010, 05:31:06 pm
content: The point is how you ended !!did you had a happy end ?I assume that I will not have issues with the display , as the issue are " No power "By the book of Fluke ... " No power " = Problem at the power switch .I have to admit , that Fluke haves lots of faith to it ...so to report this solution as the only possible damage.I would feel much better, if i had some pictures of the internals of it ,plus the inner look of the power switch ..

author: Excavatoree
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2010, 05:33:22 pm
content: So far, so good!!

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2010, 05:37:42 pm
content: Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on June 23, 2010, 05:31:06 pmCan you help ? ( pictures )

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2010, 09:05:40 pm
content: Well today I got the meter from UK , I do not know If I can be called as unlucky , or lucky ,because one confused story happened .By unpacking the meter , the display was injured ... I can not tell if I had fall as victim in a scam .All that I can tell was that I had freak out ... was the only damage that I was not expect to see.The meter was the model 001 , with the rechargeable batteries in it,the condition of them was " empty " .The meter was not power up at all , I open it up , found the batteries , and I started to charging them with external PSU .. By miracle ... as soon the two NICAD batteries got some charge ,by connecting them back on the meter , the meter came to life !!And the charger of it , started to charge them by it self !! its 2X1.2 Volts 2.200mA medium size batteries.Charging voltage 2.8 VoltsThe meter as soon it got alive , it tested by the Fluke 87-5 ,and it works accurately in all the DC volt scales.Its an Fluke made in Holland , all fuses inside was original , and no signs of any preview repair .I tested continuity , and amperes , everything looks ok .I notified the seller about the display damage , and I got refunded on the spot , getting back about 19 EUR of the total of 23 EUR , and lots of apologies from the seller .Now that I have bring to life the meter , I need to find one good display for it,even if the one that it has , are partially working .I truly need some help here , I need some one from US, to locate for me one healthy display,used or new , and we will sort out the details , by PM or email ..Here is some pictures of the meter damaged , of the meter functional,and the Fluke display it self .I found the LCD display pictures , from an old sale on ebay..

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2010, 09:06:29 pm
content: And the display part code ...

author: CDA
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 26, 2010, 11:36:31 am
content: The LCDs on that series of Fluke bench meters just don't stand the test of time.The same can be said of the Fluke hand-helds with the push buttons down the side.Replacement is likely to cost more than you paid for the meter.you could try Sphere:www.sphere.bc.ca/test/flukeparts.html

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2010, 11:38:12 am
content: Very nice meter!Have you tried contacting the official Fluke servicecenter in Greece?Intracom S.A. Defense ElectronicsDefense Electronics SystemsRepair and CalibrationAddress 21 KM Markopoulou Ave.Koropi, Attica GR-194 00Greece+30-210-667-8000+30-210-667-8001ttsir@intracomdefense.comI would think they could help you with that display.David

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2010, 02:24:16 pm
content: Currently, Fluke Europe in Holland , keeps any stock of products.All ready , I had send one query on a company called as " Sierra IC " .And did one contact with one local store ,who has one major Greek contact about Fluke parts at north Greece ,that possibly could help.I am doing some thoughts about " How hard is to convert one LCD circuitry ",so to operate with LED display ?Or better said ... Adding one new LED display on a multimeter .

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2010, 05:22:17 pm
content: Changing to LED display sounds good, I much prefer LED on bench equipment anyway.It's also probably a much cheaper alternative.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 26, 2010, 07:38:13 pm
content: I agree that LED is superior (not sure why they thought LCD was an improvement in the eighties, possibly because it's easier to do alphanumeric and complex symbols). The main disadvantage for this application is power draw, the battery life will probably be worse. But I don't really see the point in batteries for these bench-style meters these days, you can get similar performance in something like a Fluke 87, which is much smaller (but much more expensive).I believe the interface will be different, especially if they use a direct interface to the LCD (as opposed to a controller like the HD44780). LCD control signals need to be modulated to prevent 'burn-in', and probably has different voltage/current levels. So I doubt that it'd be a drop-in replacement, but it may not be too hard. Didn't they offer similar meters with LED displays? Although these might use a completely different circuit.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2010, 09:26:06 pm
content: Well thats what it looks like ... Picture ..I did try to remove and inspect the display , and now the problem become worst .. the display does not function any more .The liquid crystal had become totally damaged .I had just contact and another company for the spare part.looks to have five in stock.o2xygen.comThis display are originally made by the Japanese OPTREX part code 871126 .But its not available as part from them ..

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2010, 07:24:12 am
content: Who would have thought to find a Intersil IC in there?They were the guys who originally brought out the ICL7106/7107 3,5 digit DVM IC's that used to be used in nearly every cheap meter and still are often used in panel meters.This is obviously a custom numbered IC for Fluke, but could it be.... ?I did a quick google and came up with this:Andrew July 4th, 2009 at 02:28Fluke is not new to off-the-shelf parts and using refence desigsn.Models from the stone age, like the Fluke 8020, 8022A, 8024 have a main IC called 429100. That one happened to have the same pin configuration as the Intersil ICL7106. The circuits of the meters are very much Intersil reference designs. And not surprising, the 429100 is supplied by Intersil. Guess what IC it really is, just with a magic Fluke custom number …And guess where I found it? Right herehttp://www.eevblog.com/2009/06/29/eevblog-15-part-2-of-2-fluke-189-289-multimeter-review/If he is right, I don't feel bad about the fact that I'm currently building a special panel meter with 4x 7107's instead of the more modern approach of using some micro.If it is a 7106 it should be possible to replace it with the 7107, wich drives a LED display.But it is not a drop-in replacement, you will need to check supply voltage, you will need a +/-5V supply for the 7107. Those IC's prefer their inputs floating with respect to the supply, that can be a bit of a headache.You would probably have to make your own small board and put the 7107 and some othe stuff on it. But it sounds feasible and quite fun.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 27, 2010, 09:35:04 am
content: I would carefully check if the ICL7106 is actually 100% compatible with the Fluke 429100. They may have a common heritage, but it's possible Fluke asked for modifications or selected for tighter specs.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2010, 01:05:42 pm
content: In at least one design (Fluke 8021B), it isn't. One of the pins has been changed to select scaling factor or something.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2010, 02:48:05 pm
content: I like to thanks you , for the current findings, all of youAbout the IC , all that I can Imagine as deference from the "regular" version , are the B = Battery indicator.Other than the " B " sign addition, its one common design 4 digits 4 scale points and the Minus dash.About the IC 7107 , It sounds good as idea , but I do not know if it worths as solution , time and money.Currently I am offering about 30$ , as ultimate price, for finding the Fluke display,even as used in a good shape.I will try to find the schematics of both IC's , and see how they looks like.But I do wonder , I am the only one who came at this point ?All the others what they do with their meters ? they damp them ,trashing them !!

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2010, 03:18:59 pm
content: And some more pictures for you all ..(attachments)

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2010, 04:22:39 pm
content: Is the 8012A a 2000 count meter or more? If it is more you can't use 7106/7107 IC's as they're only 2000 count. You said the original LCD has 4 digits and a separate minus dash, so does it count to 10000?Why not try it another way? You could just go and get a standard 4digit LCD Display and wire that in there. These things are cheap (<5 EUR) and should easily fit instead of the original. The only thing you need to find out which pin on the IC represents which segment. Easy.I would certainly try and fix this meter, a nice meter is always worth some effort.David

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2010, 04:32:29 pm
content: Those are some old batteries. 2200mAh C cells. Now 2200mAh and above AA cells are sold in supermarkets, even. (I assume those are for memory backup or an internal clock?)A few oddball components (current shunts and precision resistors) look very similar to what's in my 8021B. (And despite it being about as old as Britney Spears, it is still very accurate and the frequency response is at least as good as my Mastech MS8226T.)I think the Flukes using that chipset use a non-multiplexed LCD. It should be easy to build a converter board to allow the original display to be replaced with some LED displays. Red or green for the retro look, or blue for the futuristic look. (Use window tint or something on the display cover to improve contrast.)

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2010, 09:09:57 pm
content: The meter is an 2000 counts ..So it goes at 1.900 VOr 19.99 VOr 199.9 VOr 1000 VSo its three dashes .By my understanding , The IC and the display , its an common volt meter .But some how it knows where to set the dash .... in comparison with ready cheap LED panel volt meters,that you have to set the scale manually with resistors .My only fear are, that any additional circuitry it will possibly compromise the accuracy of the instrument.I have to admit , that building converter IC's its not my strong point.

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2010, 09:36:04 pm
content: Well, if you replace the display with a off-the-shelf display you wouldn't need any special circuitry. You also wouldn't affect the accuracy of the meter as that is depending on the big Intersil IC.Unless you get the original part that is probably the easiest solution. Just have to figure out wich pin goes on wich segment, shouldn't be to hard.David

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2010, 12:02:45 am
content: I will wait for the next 5 days , the responses , of the sellers and companies , that I had ask for help .At the same time I will start to collect info about the alternative solution.I all ready have three LED displays (digits) next to me .. I am missing the one with the minus sign and the digit.The manual of the 8012A , has the full schematic in it , I will study it too .

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2010, 12:10:11 am
content: Quote from: NiHaoMike on June 27, 2010, 04:32:29 pmNop, those are secondary power source , the meter operates with them for few hours .If I remember correct .. about 16 hours .

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2010, 02:56:46 am
content: God loves me !!!And the forces of the universe are with me ..Yes another one .. on the way to Greece .. Spare parts for ever .

author: MrPlacid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2010, 04:05:36 am
content: Wow, great deal you got there.Do you know if Fluke still make bench top multimeter?

author: ThunderSqueak
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 29, 2010, 06:55:20 am
content: Quote from: shafri on June 29, 2010, 06:02:43 amMaybe there are times when size does count?

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2010, 08:01:17 am
content: Quote from: shafri on June 29, 2010, 06:02:43 amWell, my wish are to make both active , for the second one , I will find one solution in time.And the best part about bench top meters, are that you can have them at any positioning you like.They have their own spot on the bench , they do not get scratched or damaged by surrounding objects.And you do not care about batteries ..And if they have dual powering option like AC + Rechargeable batteries , thats even better.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 29, 2010, 08:34:00 am
content: Quote from: MrPlacid on June 29, 2010, 04:05:36 amSure.

author: MrPlacid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2010, 03:43:03 pm
content: Thanks, Alm.Wow, look at the number of digits on this guy...

author: KTP
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2010, 05:46:31 pm
content: Quote from: MrPlacid on June 29, 2010, 03:43:03 pmHow in the world could a meter be accurate to that many digits???Do the probes come with some sort of thermal monitoring system such that the copper resistance can be known if the room temperature changes by 0.1 degree?

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2010, 07:34:31 pm
content: Quote from: shafri on June 29, 2010, 06:40:48 pmThats True , but even those oldies , at top shape ( verified ) , they sold for 150 USD !!So it is an worthy solution , for using them for simple every day tasks .About the Fluke oldies , there is an model called 8050A 4+1/2 digit .But from the statistics on the ebay , this one looks to get easily damaged , in comparison with the 8010A & 8012A brother models.Many dead 8050A are available ..But I preferred the most " hard to die " series .With out to care about the one digit less.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2010, 08:20:35 pm
content: By the way , does any one knows , how you can totally remove the black handle-stand ?It pulls out up to a point , so to rotate it freely , but I do not see how I can remove it completely ,so to clean the exterior case, easier.

author: Zad
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2010, 08:33:44 pm
content: Quote from: KTP on June 29, 2010, 05:46:31 pmVoltage sensing to 6+ digits (20 bits) isn't a huge problem. Not sure about current though, even with a transimpedance amplifier. You could certainly get enough resolution to obtain good differential linearity, which is what matters. Precision resistance measurement is done with 4-wire (Kelvin) sensing, which effectively calibrates out the effect of the wires.Looking at the specs, current accuracy is around 5 digits. 4-wire resistance accuracy around 6 digits. Niiiice.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 29, 2010, 08:35:03 pm
content: That's just a 6.5 digit meter, these have been available for like thirty years (eg. HP 3455A/3456A). Their 8508A is closer to the top end. Voltage measurement isn't that a big deal, although thermal EMF (Seebeck effect) can be an issue (that's why they make those low-thermal EMF leads). For resistance measurements, you can use four-wire Kelvin connections to eliminate contact resistance.

author: slburris
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2010, 10:40:36 pm
content: I've got a Fluke 8505a (top) and Fluke 8502A (bottom) bench multimeter.Both are 6.5 digits, and they aren't very expensive on Ebay if you persist.Mine seem to be in excellent calibration (at least they agree witheach other). This is a good thing because their specs far exceed anythingI have to calibrate them.They are big and heavy compared to current bench meters, but they werea bargain.Scott

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2010, 02:15:41 am
content: Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on June 29, 2010, 08:20:35 pmtry to see if any plastic covering on the handle, usually on the rotation point, see if can poke it out, maybe a screw lying underneath.or there maybe a specific angle to unlock it, or maybe you can see from inside how the thing got connected to the body/casing... to get an idea.

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 30, 2010, 10:37:45 am
content: Current measurement is usually just a shunt ammeter, so in theory it isn't any harder than voltage measurement. The only issue is the stability of the shunt resistor, especially at high(ish) currents.You can often get old bench/system DMM's from that vintage fairly cheaply. Apart from the size, the main disadvantage is the bare-bones feature set. Often just DC voltage is standard, and ohms/ACV/current are options (or not available at all). Pay attention to those options if you buy it. But it's hard to beat them for stability/accuracy/precision without spending $1k+. They can also have neat features like lots of readings per second, storage and math.You can often tilt the handle to a certain position and pull it completely out. Should be in the service manual.

author: Excavatoree
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2010, 07:13:44 pm
content: Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on June 29, 2010, 02:56:46 amI warned you.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2010, 07:19:55 pm
content: Quote from: shafri on June 30, 2010, 02:15:41 amThanks shafri , I moved one step further , taking the risk , to remove the aluminum label with a blade.And ... ended victorious ..Undocumented finding , for all the old Fluke bench top meters !!8010A8012A8050A

author: MrPlacid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2010, 08:59:31 pm
content: Kiriakos-GR , I like the photos. I love taking stuff apart but hate it when I don't know how. Sometimes I end up ruining a unit because of it.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2010, 09:24:21 pm
content: I did not took pictures of the next step ...called as " removing any contamination " (main cabinet) and "removing scratches " from the stand it self ..I had wash out everything , three times ( hard brash - soft sponge ) ..And now its drying , for first inspection.I always do that, if an item that I buy on ebay , was at an unknown environment .I am a smoker , so I care less about contamination from nicotine ,but I worry most for all the rest factors.At industrial environment , even the lubrication oil that is used for some tasks ,its totally toxic .. oil spots travels from hands to the exterior of some devices ,the devices travel for repairs , and the oil travels from the device at the hands of the technician,and he transfers the contamination , at everything he touches = tools like multimeters ..The Tip of preferring to get on Ebay , shinny clean and in good condition instruments,its a sign of less or none contamination , from industrial chemicals .My baby drys out

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2010, 02:50:47 am
content: Quote from: MrPlacid on June 30, 2010, 08:59:31 pmthats how we/i usually learn. but just as Kiriakos said... u'll move one step further... by destroying it

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2010, 06:48:44 pm
content: I have one link to share about LED display on the 8050Ahttp://www.xs4all.nl/~lous/fluke/Fluke8050Asite.htmlAnd I must had lost my mind , because I am now talking with some one ,so to get also and one 8050A . 4 1/2 digitsOnly the 8050A -01 ( with battery option ) can be easily converted to operate 110v or 220V .So I am waiting to find out this detail..

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2010, 08:54:14 pm
content: Quote from: Excavatoree on June 30, 2010, 07:13:44 pmIt was not a strong one ...Just payed for the 8050A ... before 10 minutes,I did not got it cheaply ( €81.72 EUR ), but its not damaged , its calibrated , and the seller has an 100% feedback.Looks a bit dusty in the photo , but I will repair this damage..

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2010, 02:35:32 pm
content: The LED conversion is a great find. I would easily do the same, the rock solid clarity of LED, not to mention easier to drive 8 segments compared to an oscillator driven LCD.That is a fantastic cleaning job K. What do you use as a solvent?Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on July 01, 2010, 06:48:44 pmQuote from: Kiriakos-GR on June 30, 2010, 09:24:21 pm

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2010, 08:21:01 pm
content: Quote from: saturation on July 04, 2010, 02:35:32 pmThere is no just a product behind it.Its an process .First I remove any stickers with pure alcohol .With Brasso ... I remove any contamination , nicotine - yellowish spots .Them wash them with common shampoo " Glass and dishes " and a very hard plastic brush.After the first inspection , if its clean , I go further ...Like erasing all scratches with 800 grade sand paper ,and restore the shinny look with the Herapol cream,that I had write a special topic about.I managed to restore completely , the face panels and the black stand , both looks as new and shinny.Lots of effort took me to clean the inner banana contacts, lots of contact spray and sticks with cotton end.Any particle of dust and any sign of oxidation got removed from those banana contacts,now they have an mirror finish look.I have passion with restorations ..

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2010, 08:56:07 pm
content: Amazingly good work. Passion is everything! Photos are worth more than 1000 words.You could make a business restoring old devices to like new, both electrically and cosmetically.Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on July 04, 2010, 08:21:01 pm

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2010, 08:56:38 pm
content: The seller that I got the meter looks to use the same picture in all the auctions.So I demanded to see the picture of the DMM that I will receive ( he has lots of them ) .So here it is ... the DMM of KiriakosCleaning - mapping etc etc .. like the other one .It will shipped at 6 of July , I fall on the American holiday 4 of July.Has an small bump at top right, but I will survive ,all the rest looks at top condition , the display , switches, cabinet .

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2010, 09:09:26 pm
content: Quote from: saturation on July 04, 2010, 08:56:07 pmIts not an bad idea.My only enemy are the shipping costs .

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2010, 10:08:20 pm
content: You could sell it locally within Greece, or wherever shipping will not impact your costs too much.Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on July 04, 2010, 09:09:26 pm

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2010, 09:49:07 pm
content: More good news , the seller that I got the 8050A , find for me one spare LCD for the 801X meters,20$ extra , but at list , all three meters will be alive and kicking ..( got as gift after request , one set of 801X DMM fuses ... one Fluke 3A 600V Fuse ,and one glass type with one small resistor in it .. )So, no more Fluke meters for me , I got full ..87V plus three bench top , all colors and shapes ..

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2010, 10:22:18 pm
content: And one interesting picture of the old big boys " Fluke 850X "Check out those modules .. thats an true complicate device,my DMM's looks like toys in front of it , but i prefer it that way ,because I can play with them ...

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2010, 09:29:09 pm
content: Fluke bench top Summarizing ...1) Got one 8012A from UK ( Made in Holland) .. came with broken LCD -->Did not found any LCD got another meter ( blindly about condition) I needed just the LCD.2) Got the 8010A from USA , " Operating - not fully tested " , I got happy , found my LCD and one secondary parts source .3) Got one 8050A , I liked to have an second meter with 4 + 1 / 2 Display ,Got one working tested and all , before its dispatches , I got and one LCD display from the same seller,for the 801XA bench meters , they use the same.4) The 8050A dispatched from USA three days ago, with the extra LCD on the box ,my feeling was that I got the 8010A with no reason , and one God knows what will turn to be as condition.5) Today arrived the 8010A , it has one damn fresh look , totally clean ( no markings - stickers) ,totally un-smoked , very shiny , not even effected by sun rays ( yellowish look ) + perfect LCD .Date on PCB 1983 ...I did complete testing , all functions ..Enjoy the view , its amazing ...

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2010, 09:31:39 pm
content: Photo wave No2 ....

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2010, 09:37:45 pm
content: My current thoughts ..1) If the 8050A is that good as that ( 8010A condition ), I will pee my self from happiness..2) I will pay few $$ to get one small 220/110 transformer ,and i will install it internally , on the 8010A ( there is lots of space ) ,so to feel happy in it new Euro-Home.3) In a week time , I will have all of them on display

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2010, 12:20:15 pm
content: Old good brands were made to last. Good job restoring them!I would trust it more than cheap Chinese stuff. But I would be wary about using it on mains voltageQuote from: Kiriakos-GR on July 09, 2010, 09:37:45 pm

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2010, 02:03:37 pm
content: Step down solution on the way ..All those Bench top , uses one inner transformer that has an output of 8.2AC volts .I searched the local market to find one step-down transformer 2-4W ,but I had no luck ... find this one at easy ,and now all that it needs, are to be parked at the parking spot .All 801X A with out the " inner battery option " , have this space free .. ( picture )(actually this is the 8012A , but all this boards look alike .. )( I will do this job in few minutes from now ).

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2010, 11:38:48 pm
content: Job well done ..Well I had a bit more trouble than the expected ,but it was due a mechanical issue ..I used dual side tape between transformer & PCB .Plus one aluminum " strip connector " ( its aluminum from car parts )Plus soft insulators at the corners ( we call the as " mika " in Greek )I did the wiring , and added one Fuse holder between the transformers ( 1A ) , at this version of the meter , the PCB lines was there but not the Fuse holder.And after some primary testing , I started it up .. 100% success .Fluke advices to order from them an compatible transformer depending the region,well I do not think that it costs 4-6$ or EurosPictures ...

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2010, 11:41:01 pm
content: Photo wave No2 ......

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2010, 11:54:36 pm
content: Good job! That 'free space' on the PC board was almost custom made for you adaptation. A very elegant solution using that foreigntravel converter. I see you had a minor problem with the hose clamp clearance with the casing. A very strong tie down that, I personally would use just zip ties but a hose clamp will last forever. You assembled meter and workspace are very clean, my complements, I am never so neat.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2010, 12:06:40 am
content: Quote from: saturation on July 10, 2010, 11:54:36 pmThanks friend , yes it does look like an successfully made " cocktail "But I would not be satisfied, with anything less , than this ...Usually at the " Free space " goes the battery compartment .The 8012A its a European , no " Mains" cooking needed.The 8010A become an Euro- citizen.Now I am expecting the 8050A , that by the schematic , are easily convertible.If I fall on an changed PCB design = I will use the solution of the 8010A .Either way ... I am unstoppable ..its a Win Win, no matter what.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2010, 12:10:19 am
content: put a fan! to cool down the transformer, so it wont burnt prematurely! just a suggestion

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2010, 12:18:11 am
content: Quote from: saturation on July 10, 2010, 11:54:36 pmI hate the zip ties solution on transformers ... Many told me the same and in the Greek forumabout" zip ties ", that I posted the pictures , and the all project.Basically , this meter when is set on the box , the PCB board are upside down .About zip ties ... I do not trust them for such application.No I am not afraid about heat issues , the meter needs 2W transformer ,and the one that I got are marketed as 50W .. = Ice cube"hose clamp" Thats an aluminum one for air filters of cars,its soft and it can take thermal variations , with no issues.Quote from: saturation on July 10, 2010, 11:54:36 pmI just push everything a bit furthercheated

author: domm123
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2010, 12:57:07 pm
content: Hi, I'm getting myself a broken 8050a to get it fix myselfI need to make is to change the transformer in the multimeter so that it can be use in my country.The multimeter is rated at 110v, and my country is using the 220v standard.Rather then adding a 220v to 110v transformer, i would like to change the whole power transformer of the unit.Can i check with you, whether the transformer in the multimeter is multi tapped or single tapped(single or multiple voltages on secondary)?And what is the voltage output from the transformer?Thanks

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2010, 08:54:14 pm
content: Well for start I have not receive yet the 8050A ..By studying this specific model of meters , the most easily convertable, are the 01 versions,with the batteries .Thats why I selected " insisted to get " the specific version .Fluke uses two types of transformers , isolated to specific voltage & multi-voltage.The first one are totally black (covered with plastic like sealed box) and are a bit smaller .The second are larger has an metallic look , and you can see even the coils , that are covered by one clear plastic cover.If you tell me more about the specification - version of your meter , I will tell you more .Right now I have find out that I need also to replace at the American model,the oscillator crystal too, the one that does 50 or 60 Hz ...Every meter with multi-voltage ability of those , comes also with double crystals ,and has internally one micro switch.All that I need to find are one Crystal at 3.200 Khz , and I will be totally in specs.But funny enough , even with the 60Hz Crystal , the meter reads accurately AC Mains !!

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 11, 2010, 10:41:06 pm
content: Sure, the crystal frequency has no effect on accuracy, just on NMRR (rejection of mains interference on top of a DC signal in DC/ohms mode). Try feeding it something like a 100mV DC + 1Vpp 60Hz sine in DCV mode, and notice how the voltage is pretty stable. Change the frequency of the sine to 50Hz, and notice how the DCV measurement will jump around much more. This is because the integration period is supposed to be synchronized to the mains frequency, which cancels out the mains signals. If the mains frequency is different than expected, this is a lot less effective.

author: DJPhil
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2010, 05:20:05 am
content: Just a quick off topic, the little guy in the last picture with the 220 mustache made me smile. Is it original Kiriakos artwork?

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2010, 12:47:56 pm
content: Quote from: alm on July 11, 2010, 10:41:06 pmSo in simple GreekI have one small downsize (effect) only at True-RMS measurements on DC.Sounds as no BiggyI tried to locate the 2300 kHz crystal locally with No luck .. so far ..If some one haves one , just contact me by PM ..Quote from: DJPhil on July 12, 2010, 05:20:05 amWell, I had in mind one smiling female Mains plug ..

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 12, 2010, 10:13:05 pm
content: Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on July 12, 2010, 12:47:56 pmIt will be more susceptible to 50Hz interference in DC/ohms mode, not that a big deal, I agree. You can work around it by shielding or adding a low-pass filter if it's a problem.Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on July 12, 2010, 12:47:56 pmSome crystal manufacturers will do one-offs, but you will need to know the specs (eg. load capacitance, resonance mode), and the price will probably be close to the price of the meter.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 12, 2010, 10:50:29 pm
content: Well I have found the crystal on ebay ... in lots of 10 and cheaply , but I am not aware of it capacitance.If the 8050A, that is on the way, has an similar issue (that I do not believe that it will had )..I will be forced to call Fluke and sort it out .Still, speaking about accuracy of design about crystals , Fluke looks to have an deferent point of view !!And I am a bit skeptic here , just look that design ... total difference in quality and size ..The large ones looks to was made in US , the small one it has other parents 100% ..8012A-01 VS the same board called as 8010A ..

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2010, 12:03:20 pm
content: Quote from: Mitchell1081 on July 15, 2010, 05:54:51 amHello Mitchell , is it a secret your reference ?about ??

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2010, 12:09:23 pm
content: Another Party time, at the Greek camp ..The 8050A arrived , tested and all , its another good to go rocket ..Yes the Mains compatibility confirmed again ..I have just to change one wire ..( The extra LCD display arrived too ..8012A)So there is allot work , for me this afternoon ..Yes I am ultra happy, thank you !!

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2010, 07:31:12 pm
content: Good news and " Bad luck " ..The " Bad luck " have to do with the seller ,he send me one meter that looks like " 01 version with Batteries "But this one inside has " Missing parts " so to be called 01 ..I notified the Seller , he told me that probably he send this by mistake.Any way , I did make the change at the transformer input ,and all turned well , the 8050A transformer has an single output of 12V AC .About the 8050A, and the crystal , this meter its another animal ,it has an wide range at True-RMS , and with a single crystal it does it all.The 8012A came in life , with the " New " healthy LCD .And with lots of cables looping around.. I got this historical picture..(total accuracy does not count , I use lots of deferent cables , types - lengths ).

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2010, 10:11:23 am
content: Hi Larry .Technically there is no lot to tell about those specific meters , as devices ,I had check them - inspect them ... from top to bottom , they are now perfect..I had even discover and one half damaged component at the 8050A ,the R26 resistor , was causing issues , with result the meter to not power up successfully,its and every time .I Replace it with modern Film metals 2x18R 1% in parallel (9.1R) , and I did gave a permanent Fix .Something that it did cause to me , an positive feeling about the construction of those dinosaursAre that Fluke had use very expensive parts inside , many resistors are from Vishay Dale ,the " precision " ones ... looks that this is the only explanation of why, such meters are still alive.By looking today all three , I can say , that I do favor most the 8050A , the " relative function" its an must have,second best the 8012A , the special low resistors board , its has an manual " relative function" .( So the 8012A comes closer to the 8050A - minus one digit )And third the 8010A , that it is armed with the 10A measurement ability.If the modern technology had added something valuable , are that the few expensive modern meters ,had all the strong points combined .But what an single can not do , are multiple measurements , as you can do with three meters ..With all my adventures on ebay , those three meters cost to me as 125 Euros , not the average ebay value , its just me ... with two partial refunds included ( 8050A 20$ not an true "battery model" )( 8012A refunded at 90% as it came with damaged LCD - poor packaging )At the same time I could had one old Fluke 87 , but I prefer those three ..( combined and divided - power )

author: gib0r
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 19, 2010, 03:17:57 am
content: What a fantastic little adventure.The 8010A was my main bench meter until I acquired an 8840A/AF by chance. They're great.

author: MrPlacid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2010, 05:09:01 am
content: Kiriakos-GR, you are very skill in restoring the looks of those old flukes. Keep taking pictures, I love checking this thread out.

author: domm123
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2010, 06:18:43 am
content: Hi, I have just received my fluke 8050A from ebay, real cheap.. which is mark as repair or parts. And i need your help!!!The first thing i notice is that the LCD in the meter is not for 8050A, but it's for 802X series...As the lcd is not working, i decided to follow this mod to use 7-segment led for display.http://www.xs4all.nl/~lous/fluke/Fluke8050Asite.htmlThe first thing I do is to on the power, set the multimeter into DB mode(V and mA button depress) and 20V button depress.And hook up an led with a 1k resistor in series,positive to pin 16 of U15,negative to pin 3 of U11, according to the diagram below. But the led did not light upCan you help me to check what is the voltage across your pin 16 of U15 and pin 3 of U11 of your 8050a multimeter display board?Thanks

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2010, 12:54:30 pm
content: Quote from: domm123 on July 19, 2010, 06:18:43 amWell , first of all .... and I say first of all ... you must know if the meter does function ..If the display are damaged , in some part of it , it should at list show some signs of life .Some digits should work , at minimum ..If you do not have such proofs of health , do not do anything further ..Thats my first advice ..

author: domm123
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2010, 01:40:44 pm
content: Hi, the display does flicker and it's upside down(as it is not 8050A lcd, but a 802X lcd)...Have check that U24(6v voltage regulator) have 6v output and U25(7905) have -5v output when the unit is turn on.Can i know the voltage across your pin 16 of U15 and pin 3 of U11 of display board when the meter is in DB mode?

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2010, 01:53:06 pm
content: Quote from: domm123 on July 19, 2010, 01:40:44 pmThats sounds as sign of life , about the display , I think that Fluke plays games on us .The display that I got for my 8012A , it had also an different code on it ,and I was more exited to test it , than taking a picture of it .And it did worked !!QuoteWell you must be right on this , all those bench top , have the board upside down,so only an true compatible display will have the correct orientation .About the voltages , I will had to open it apart , so you need to give me some time.I will help you ..

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2010, 07:49:42 pm
content: Ok got it ...Pin 16 U15 = groundPin 3 U 11 = - 2.90Ground point of my DMM the center screw at the center of the PCB .U15all Pins ..Pin 1= -5.80Pin 2 + 3 + 4 + 5 = 10mv ( about)Pin 6 = -2.89Pin 7+8 - 5.88Pin 9 to 15 = - 2.9016 = GroundU11all Pins ..Pin 1 = - 5.80Pin 2 to 6 = - 2.90Pin 7+8 = - 5.80Pin 9 = 10mv ( about)Pin 10 = - 5.80Pin 11 = 10mv ( about)Pin 12 = - 5.80Pin 13 = 10mv ( about)Pin 14 = - 5.80Pin 15 = 10mv ( about)Pin 16 Ground ..Check those and report back .( meter was in DB mode 20V ) and I had an visual on LCD like :Min DB (20V) - 58Max DB ( 200) -38(no leads connected )

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2010, 11:38:45 pm
content: One last useful tip ..The 8050A can use modern shrouded test leads , and its totally compatible,with the test leads of the Fluke 87 ..An nice economicalSetleads and crocks , are the one below ,check pictures ..The 8010A & 8012A uses old type bananas ( Less uncommon & easy to find )

author: DavidDLC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2010, 06:32:09 pm
content: Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on July 04, 2010, 08:21:01 pmKiriakos, from where did you get the Herapol cream ? I was searching for it on the internet and I was not able to find anything.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2010, 11:18:18 pm
content: Here I have one link for you.http://shop.ebay.com/bikingear1/m.html?_nkw=XERAPOL+&_sacat=0&_odkw=&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3911.c0.m270.l1313Or cheapest quick find ...http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/XERAPOL-Plastic-Glass-Scratch-Remover-Acrylic-Repair-/260323421485?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3c9c7c2d2dThe actual name are Xerapol , but in Greece we spell it as " h " .. sorry for the confusion

author: DavidDLC
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2010, 01:47:00 am
content: Thanks a lot !

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2010, 08:45:23 pm
content: The joy after one good calibration ...Well I worked hard to build or buy everything called as Calibration assist gear ,I had even find and print all the Fluke manuals , but still I was feel a bit nervous about actually doing it.The drop that float the glass , was the AC readings of the 8012A it was very off , something that I had not notice from the start , as I was testing only DC , and there was ok.I will not get in details , I will just say that the 801X ones , haves an very easy way to be calibrated.There is two pots for AC1) setting the 00.0 (low AC)2) setting the (Max AC)And for DC its just another pot ...I opened both 801X ones, and adjusted their AC & DC .By the use of one transformer 220/110 , tested and the 110V .In the pictures you can see the 0.888 volt , Fluke recommends 1.888 but my mini- cal calibrator does not offer such setting at meters with such high impedance . ( technical quirk )As alternative source I had use the reference 10V of my decade box.All cables are very high quality ( very low resistance ) , speaking about the blue orange ones ( mil specs 00.05 Ohm its one .) with Hirschmann connectors .Pictures direct from the camera ... no editingIt feels good to have your knifes sharpened ...

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 11, 2010, 09:09:17 pm
content: By the way , currently found this D-811 on ebay ... ( no I have no plans about getting it )I do not know if there is any deference's in specs, from the 801X series,but this dark brown looks nice .So here it is ...

author: MrPlacid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2010, 04:56:18 am
content: Kiriakos-GR , at this rate your family is gonna be bigger than dave's. I can't believe how many meter you own. Are you aiming for an all fluke family?

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2010, 04:21:17 pm
content: Quote from: MrPlacid on September 16, 2010, 04:56:18 amSort question , but I can speak for hours as reply ..I have admit repeatedly that Dave's influence , hooked me up at the Fluke hook ,with the video review about the 87-5 .At that time I had an real need to get an reliable True-RMS DMM.Another " Dave's influence " was the idea that you must have at list two DMM,so to compare its other against accuracy issues ( very logical idea ).So the 8050A joined in the party as 87-5 alternative.The 3+1/4 bench meters , was something like an hidden wish list to me, translating to " I like to have them " but I can live and with out them ( Got them cheaply - my own technical skills helped this eBay opportunity ) , to become an true opportunity , that erases ( from my inner hidden wish list) the need for bench type multimeter s .The specific analog Metrawatt , has so special characteristics , that its the true "Sex in a box ".An multimeter that does not lie - ultimate quality - protections for Industrial environment (active relay on leads ) - RF interference and EMI does not touch it - with some ranges useful also for repairs on bench, and modern electronics ..( This one was an 100% my choice as selection )And found Dave and the forum because of it .The other portables , are old companions to me , I respect them both , their good services are bringing food on my table for years.And now back in your question , " How this cycle will close " ? ,it will close with one (very - very) expensive UNI-T with the ability to act as an mini oscilloscope.There is new UNI-T models hidden currently from the public view , at the Chinese web site ,even the descriptions about them, are only in Chinese .I expect UNI-T to release them ( availability ) at this Christmas or Spring .. or in the 2011 anyway.Personally I am locally, an Top class freelancer repairman , that the need pushed me , so to get involved with so many and different areas ( directions ) as electronics repairs , and so I found useful all my multimeter 's ,because its one, has an specific task or role in my life as serviceman.And so, even if I look as an collector , the reality are , that I am not.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2010, 05:07:26 pm
content: Quote from: shafri on September 16, 2010, 01:30:24 pmGood question ..My above reply offers lots of explanations, up to the practical part about my choices.There is also and the emotional part... my own experiences and personal DO or DO NOT ..Decisions made by me , that nothing in earth can change them.Among them are rules like :1)Stay away of SMT made devices .( if possible )2)Never get something absolutely serviced , by an foreign single source ( Never loose the Freedom of choice )ORstay way from anything that its made in a way, that excludes even an expert repairman, of the process, of repairing it .3)Never get something, that the maker has full control over the spare parts !! ( availability or coded parts)4)Stay away of complicate devices with out past .. ( Industry does errors too - imperfect devices that you are getting married with , and you regret later on )5)Always test your gear before you get involved in real action !!(They are your weapons at your daily battles , they should do "damage" , and accept damage with out to fall apart)The incident with the 87-5 , its a terrible find .... I could had travel from my base in to a near Island ,so to repair something at an Hotel, or servicing the "Fire station" ( Fireman's ) UHF transmitter on the Island ,an bricked meter so many kilometers away of my base , its an true destruction of myreputation.That matters above anything in my life ..That's why I am fearless testing anything , no matter how much it costs ...

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 16, 2010, 06:04:47 pm
content: Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on September 16, 2010, 05:07:26 pmThis excludes almost anything made in the last twenty years or so.Quote from: Kiriakos-GR on September 16, 2010, 05:07:26 pmWhich would be quite deserved, if you go to a job like that without backups and backups for backups. I agree that it's an unacceptable failure, but you should always plan for things breaking down at the worst possible moment.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2010, 06:30:35 pm
content: Quote from: alm on September 16, 2010, 06:04:47 pmI do not care , industry and marketing forces theirrules, with out asking anyone.I have my ..Quote from: alm on September 16, 2010, 06:04:47 pmI am not aware many who has an such backup , for an such type of multimeter (cost involved ),and I will accept that, as an logical advice that it is so.If so , at this point I had to ask this question at my self .. I would end up carrying double amount of gear or aluminum suitcase's ?And Imagine that I move with me and the parts for installation, could be antennas - cables - or heavy parts ..My current tactics about gear testing , had offered to me an 100% success on every " Mission impossible " away from my base , so I get back to the generic rule " If an tactic works do not change it "

author: MrPlacid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2010, 03:44:18 am
content: Kiriakos-GR , I think I got the "hidden wish list too" when it comes to bench meters. Though I don't need them, it's nice to see LED display & electric cord. I know if I don't get them bench meters, I will still be yearning for them for a very long time. So I make it a habit to just get it and get it out of my system.Luckily for both of us, these oldies stuffs are cheapI agree with dave's idea of 2 dmm. I perfer 3

author: Nermash
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2010, 06:29:56 am
content: One neat project would be to upgrade, let's say 8050, with a OLED display:)

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2010, 06:06:02 pm
content: Quote from: Nermash on September 17, 2010, 06:29:56 amI can not do that ... I will loose the life time warrantyNo I am not that brave ...If I was that advanced in electronics , it will translate to , that I am an Bad electrician ..

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2010, 06:10:40 pm
content: Quote from: MrPlacid on September 17, 2010, 03:44:18 amThat's exactly of what I am talking about .... " get it out of my system "Plus that you do not have the fear , if you own many , to be left in the cold , if someone gets damaged for any reason.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2011, 12:00:26 am
content: Well after the latest good news herehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=3232.0I came to update my DMM family status, with a picture of the latest members .This is an DC accuracy test with the use of the reference DC source (LT1021 -CCN8-10V Reference IC)(picture direct from the camera = a bit large)

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2011, 08:26:53 am
content: 1) hey how come fluke register reading while no probe connected! thats cheating!(i know its on hold mode)2) just notice agilent got temp reading 24/7 during operation? thats cool.3) your agilent battery low, buy a backup battery soon!4) still with your trusty decade box huh?

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2011, 12:00:40 pm
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on June 22, 2011, 08:26:53 amI had learn this new way of cheating by watching the pictures posted by @Saturation.Quote from: Mechatrommer on June 22, 2011, 08:26:53 amI Took the picture late at night, check the Exif.Quote from: Mechatrommer on June 22, 2011, 08:26:53 amThe LCD back light needs lots of energy, and when is active comes to the point to trigger the battery indicator temporarily.I am waiting for the final review of Dave about it, so to see how much mA he measured as consumption with active back light.Quote from: Mechatrommer on June 22, 2011, 08:26:53 amLast night I send my first report to Agilent , plus this picture and few more.Their respond was ...Looks like you are putting the DMM to a thorough and useful test. Thank you!In a way this box collected even some recognition from Agilent it self.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2011, 04:05:16 pm
content: Quote from: ErikTheNorwegian on September 21, 2011, 11:06:15 amHello Norway & welcomeYou are correct it looks like 13 items in stock.Did you buy any so to share with us the pricing ?In my case I got an healthy used, but the cost was not less than 15$.Even so I was had a handy transaction, because I got it from the same seller that I got the 8050A unit,and so I got them together with no extra shipping cost.I am happy for you, that you managed to get all gear that you had in mind.My own current "wish list" is really small, like an LCR and a small oscilloscope.

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 21, 2011, 05:43:55 pm
content: Dear Kiriakos:--Belated congratulations on getting your used Flukes up and running. I will probably need your help when I get one. It is a great idea to have two identical units. It increases your confidence level immensely, no?"The telegraph is a kind of a very long cat. You pull his tail in New York and his head is meowing in Los Angeles. Radio operates the same way, except there is no cat." Albert EinsteinBest RegardsClear Ether

author: ErikTheNorwegian
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2011, 06:23:56 pm
content: I just wounder, since we all probably got several instrument that are better than all the old ones we fix,are a bunch of nostalgicsgeeks?

author: Lawsen
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2011, 09:28:01 pm
content: I have used that Fluke 8012A while studying at a community college about ten years ago, before university. I liked it very much. There was a battery option for these 8012A and 8050A. The display broke, not from old age, but being dropped by the previous owners or users, before you. My Fluke 8060A broke years after electronic school, the analog to digital converter chip broke and it was not giving right readings. The 8060A have a better service manual, that new Flukes comes with useless manuals. I sent it in to Fluke for repair and they did not repair it, e waste it and sent me a Fluke 187. I am happy you got it repaired and enjoyed a good bench multimeter with push button selector switch.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2011, 09:55:34 pm
content: Quote from: SgtRock on September 21, 2011, 05:43:55 pmNop I disagree, this happens only when they read 0.9V at 27KHz square wave, at that point they are at the half of the 50KHz named True RMS responding. (above 20KHz the accuracy is 5%)And so no matteroftheir age, they are performers.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2011, 10:17:05 pm
content: Quote from: ErikTheNorwegian on September 21, 2011, 06:23:56 pmNever was one, I just appreciate everything that worth to be appreciated.I admire anything honest, and I do not care about fashion ... I bet that the modern marketing representatives hates me allotEven so I do not reject modern challenges, the Agilent U1272A did pass successfully from my test Arena. LOLThe last days the clock is ticking for Mastech, in their web page they demonstrate lot of pride for their range of products,if they accept my small challenge, it would be a proof that they have faith in their latest True RMS models, time will tell.

author: Kiriakos-GR
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2011, 04:33:52 am
content: Well this old generation of Bench top DMM they hide and another one secret.And this is theTouch and holdfunction, but in order to work you need one special Fluke probe.I was aware about it for few months, but just today I found a worthy picture of it.

author: marketta
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 11, 2013, 11:01:34 am
content: Quote from: alm on July 12, 2010, 10:13:05 pmHiare Italian and I are holder of the Fluke 8010A with which I am replacing the old lcd that he/she is not seen with another model anymore VI-302-DP-RG with opportune changes.However I would like to complete putting him all the components to add the rechargeable battery, Someone of the forum he knows how to tell me if you has effected the upgrade and where I can find the trafo PE-61922 478453I Thank you And I Thank Who MI Wants to Answe