hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Trying to ID a connector pair... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: kc7gr-15
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2022, 07:41:07 pm
content: Fellow techies,I'm trying to ID the manufacturer and part number for a connector pair used on a telecomm service tester I have. Neither Mouser nor DigiKey have been able to give me anything more than a 'deer in headlights' response.Here's what I know about it so far. Surface-mount, metal shell, 120 total positions arranged in (depending on how you count them) two rows of 60 or four rows of 30. The pitch appears to be 0.5mm.Photos attached. I guess my biggest question is whether I'm looking at a custom part or an off-the-shelf.Happy holly-days to all, and thanks.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2022, 08:03:28 pm
content: Hard to tell from the photo,but some of these look similarhttps://www.toby.co.uk/board-to-board-pcb-connectors/050mm-sockets-and-headers/

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 06:11:31 am
content: Did you check out Molex Mezzanine series?

author: kc7gr-15
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2022, 08:57:13 pm
content: Actually, I just heard back from the manufacturer of the instrument on Friday. Turns out this particular part was indeed a custom build, likely from Molex.This tells me I'll need to hoard a few dead units as parts mules.Thanks to all who replied.
Trying to identify relay - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sebekish
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 25, 2023, 07:30:35 am
content: I'm trying to repair an amplifier and I've narrowed it down to a bridge rectifier that's blown and a relay.But I have some trouble to identify the relay, it's a Hasco LT1C10DC24.My best guess is to use a G5LE-1A-DC24 (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/G5LE-1A-DC24?qs=jMTjsNgJ9v846vMKGLJJ9w%3D%3D).The pinout seems to be the same and by my guess from the parts number it is 24VDC 10AMP. Am I totally wrong about that?

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2023, 08:00:19 am
content: That looks correct, Hasco still use a very similar part number coding scheme:https://www.hascorelays.com/products/power-relays/klt-l-series/

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2023, 09:36:44 pm
content: If it's an older part, the Wayback Machine can often help:https://web.archive.org/web/20060815000000*/hascorelays.com
Trying to identify some components - blind controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: matth
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2022, 01:35:29 am
content: I am in the process of debugging and repairing a failed Acmeda blind controller.I am having difficulty identifying a couple of the components and was looking for help.One is marked as a BA6H17 and looks like it is some sort of dual Triac/SCR/FET/solid state switch. The branding is an "A" inside a ring (looks like the Avengers logo).. Found this one :http://www.aosmd.com/pdfs/datasheet/AOD609.pdfThe other is a Diode (probably a back to back diode) marked as BM1627 with a "Ty" brandingBoth are on the DC motor side of the controller.I have included a photothanksMatt

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2022, 07:37:56 am
content: BM = MSMP15A, SMAJ15A -> 15V unidirectional TVS diodehttps://www.vishay.com/docs/89457/mspm6a.pdfhttps://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/tvs_diodes/littelfuse_tvs_diode_smaj_datasheet.pdf.pdfhttp://www.smdmark.com/en-US/search/code?id=bm

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2022, 08:02:05 am
content: Quote from: fzabkar on August 31, 2022, 07:37:56 amMore precisely it should be SMAJ15CA (bi-directional).<-- WRONG!!!

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2022, 08:15:44 am
content: Quote from: gamalot on August 31, 2022, 08:02:05 amI see that there is no polarity stripe, but the marking code for the bidirectional version is "XM". Of course the marking could be different for this "Ty" part, though.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2022, 08:21:38 am
content: Quote from: fzabkar on August 31, 2022, 08:15:44 amYes you are right, I was just looking at the wrong column in the table!

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2022, 08:38:32 am
content: It does look to me like the diode is bidirectional. :-?

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2022, 10:37:12 am
content: Quote from: fzabkar on August 31, 2022, 08:38:32 amIt's really confusing, maybe it's the flux, maybe it's the angle of the light, maybe the manufacturer indicates polarity with the direction of the text ...---I found a Taiwanese semiconductor manufacturer under the brand name "TY", they do make TVS products, but no technical documentation is published.http://www.twtysemi.com/

author: matth
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2022, 11:24:05 am
content: The diode is bi-directional as the DC across it will swap in polarity to send the motor forward or in reverse.
Trying to identify this part of a server motherboard - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: darryllee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 31, 2023, 09:02:08 am
content: Hi,wondering if anyone can help identifying this part off a server motherboard - the motherboard is an Asrock Rack D1541D4U-2T8R. The part is circled in red.Thanks

author: fmashockie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2023, 02:25:27 pm
content: It looks like it could be a Torex chip of some kind. They use 5C in a lot of their codes. It's hard to tell from that photo - are there 8 pins or more on the other sides? Could you also show a photo without that circle so we can better see the surrounding components? Could be a charge pump maybe (Torex XC9801?)

author: darryllee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 31, 2023, 05:48:04 pm
content: Hi Mate,Thanks for the swift response, in total there are 8 pins, i have attached another couple of photos 1 photo is of the damaged part.Cheers

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2023, 06:04:22 pm
content: RT8065ZQW, Richtek, Synchronous Step-Down Converter, 2.7V - 5.5Vin, 3A, 2MHz, marking 29, WDFN-8L 3x3:https://www.richtek.com/assets/product_file/RT8065/DS8065-08.pdf

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2023, 05:09:04 am
content: I had a feeling it was Richtek, was going to look there but fzabkar beat me to it

author: darryllee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 01, 2023, 06:59:34 pm
content: Awesome, thank you very much for this, 1 more question, all of richtek chips on my board are labelled 29 5c, B1Z. If i was to replace the damaged chip with a new one & the markings/labels are different, would it matter?Thanks again

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2023, 07:47:11 pm
content: Quote from: darryllee on September 01, 2023, 06:59:34 pmOnly the "29" is important. The other markings are date/batch codes.https://www.google.com/search?q=RT8065ZQW&tbs=isz%3Am%2Citp%3Aphoto&tbm=isch

author: darryllee
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 02, 2023, 04:44:25 am
content: LegendThank you
Trying to identify this part. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: v8dave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2019, 12:36:21 am
content: The PCB appears to have power put on the comms pair and the 2 devices on the board are fried. The remaining good one on the right is OK. Seems to be some kind of protection device and looks like they did the job as the PCB is working when I jump the fried parts but would like to repair it properly and have the protection again.The middle connections connect to the ground and the other 2 in line with the signal lines.Anyone any idea what this part may actually be?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2019, 01:28:20 am
content: Could it be something like this (LC filter)?https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/218/Syfer_SBSMDatasheet-1316388.pdfI expect that the glass devices (diodes ?) function as overvoltage clamps.

author: mengfei
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2019, 02:04:59 am
content: looks like SMD caps that filters supply

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2019, 02:08:53 am
content: Quote from: mengfei on November 01, 2019, 02:04:59 amThe component is in series with the Vcc supply, so it can't be a simple filter capacitor.

author: eliocor
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 01, 2019, 04:19:30 am
content: see:https://product.tdk.com/info/en/products/emc/emc/3tf/catalog.html

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2019, 09:30:53 am
content: Quote from: mengfei on November 01, 2019, 02:04:59 amLook closer, they have side contacts.Quote from: eliocor on November 01, 2019, 04:19:30 amYes, some sort of LC or Pi filter. We need to know what the interface is to get some idea of the speed.P.S. The two glass MELF packages look like the overvoltage protection diodes, it would be sensible to check that they haven't gone short.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 01, 2019, 07:11:38 pm
content: Quote from: Gyro on November 01, 2019, 09:30:53 amQuote from: v8dave on November 01, 2019, 12:36:21 am

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 01, 2019, 07:32:38 pm
content: Nothing fancy, simply feed through capacitors.https://eu.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Feed-Through-Capacitors/_/N-5g96

author: v8dave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2019, 01:50:16 am
content: Thanks all. That's perfect and we can get some and repair the board.
Trying to identify this SMD IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Yamin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2020, 05:05:48 pm
content: Hi guys,I am trying to identify this SMD IC (U8 in the photo). I think its some kind of dc/dc converter, voltage detect IC.The markings on the IC are:03046CJPF36I think the ‘PF36’ is the important bit. I was able to find similar kind of ICs with PF36 but nothing which really matched to the package type or the marking.The dimensions of the package is:3mm x 3mmThere are total of 10 pins (5 on each side) plus the ground on the bottom it does peak out from the sides as well.What is this package type?I have this faulty unit which does not power up. It has got a ‘soft power switch’. It gets stuck half way during power up sequence. Trying to troubleshoot this section of the circuit. I have included a picture of this section which I have started to trace, maybe it might be of help.Thanks in advance for the help

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2020, 05:41:45 pm
content: Plunking 0304 into the marking lookup on TI's website hits on theTPS40304, whose package completely matches what you describe, and whose simplified (p. 1) and typical (fig 22, p. 25) application schematics match what you started to sketch.

author: Yamin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2020, 08:45:05 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on August 03, 2020, 05:41:45 pmWe've got a winner!:D Thanks so much, just out of curiosity @tooki how were you able to guess it? I find it so hard to get the right part number from these codes.Even right now I'm struggling to find the part number for code 'AGCG' its an SOT 26 package. I know its some kind of voltage regulator or buck converter used to derive the 3.3V power rail. I have searched so much no luck.On a different note:I might have figured out why the unit I have is failing to power up. The capacitor at pin 2 (C1) seems to be open. I have removed and checked it, could that capacitor being open have caused the unit not to power up? Now the problem is I don't know which capacitor value to replace it with. The example circuit on the data sheet says 3.3nF - what would happen if I go above it? I recall that the unit takes quite a bit of time to start up from the initial 'all led on'.Thanks for the help again

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2020, 11:47:40 pm
content: If you leave pin #2 open, the device should start up without any soft-start delay.FYI …https://www.ti.com/packaging/docs/partlookup.tsp

author: Yamin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2020, 09:27:24 am
content: Quote from: fzabkar on August 03, 2020, 11:47:40 pmOh I was hoping that it was going to be the fault,I haven't change the capacitor yet as I haven't got a 3.3nF capacitor. Could it be the micro controller 'expects' a soft start and is not starting up because of that?
Trying to remove the switch and mains socket of ATX PSU so I can remove the PCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: seanspotatobusiness
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2021, 04:38:08 am
content: I have a broken XFX ATX PSU which I was hoping to fix. I'll never trust it to power my PC again but it might be useful to power something's less important. I'm falling at the first hurdle of removing the PCB from the casing. Specifically, I think the problem is the mains cable socket and the power switch which are attached to the sheet metal which constitutes the PSU casing.I attached photographs of the switch and socket and the reverse side which is obscured by some sort of metal and plastic shield which will not budge. Can these be removed without damaging anything?I am taking care to avoid contact with the capacitors, although they probably have discharge resistors. I might apply a 10K resistor across them to be sure.

author: WattsThat
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2021, 06:16:26 am
content: That metal shield looks like it is mounted to the pc board with plastic rivets. Best to look to see how the board is held in the case, cannot see that from your photos that are too close to see anything useful, it’s not the shield keeping everything in place.

author: Geronimo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 23, 2021, 02:56:58 pm
content: I would guess you should have some screws down there on the corners of the PCB holding it down to the metal chassis.Try to find and remove those if you have not done yet.On the right side of the shield I can see some cables (brown and blue) with the noise suppressing ferret.It looks to me that there is some space left to pull the board out if you can tilt it up and away from the power switch and main power connector.BTW: If you have an incandescent light buld around, maybe from an old desk lamp.Switch it on and use the pins of the power plug to cross link the heat sinks with the metal chassis and cross link ground and 12V from the outlets of the PSU.Thats how I discharge the caps when working on such a device. Your way with the discharge resistor is basically the same, my light bulb however gives me some noitceable reply.
Trying to repair a Pentax V spotmeter light meter  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Chris_D
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2021, 02:49:49 am
content: Hello,I'm pretty new to the EEVblog and I didn"t know that there was a repair subgroup as well.I have already asked this same question on forums about photography, but maybe this is a better place to start:I'm trying to repair an old Pentax V spotmeter light meter.I'm currently figuring out the circuits on the PCB's in it,redrawing them by hand and identifying electronic components (I have made here a few posts concerning).I was wondering: is there anyone who has already done this? Somebody who has more info about the circuits or parts?Or someone who could interpret wiring?Thanks.

author: Niklas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 04, 2021, 06:15:00 am
content: This might be something:https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/708680/Looking+to+identify+this+component+in+a+Pentax+1%C2%B0-21%C2%B0+spot+meterIn one of the answers, there is a link to a functional description and a schematics:https://www.cameramanuals.org/flashes_meters/pentax_asahi_spotmeter_diagram.pdfNote the special type of resistors that looks like capacitors on the first sight.

author: Chris_D
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2021, 06:37:24 pm
content: It was I who made this post. But behind my back they altered my original title. It was not about a spotmeter 1/21 at all. It was about a Pentax Spotmeter V. I'm still puzzled why the moderator of Ifixit did this.It was like they wouldn't acknowledge that they were wrong or that they were going to be punished for a wrong answerAnd they were a little bit condenscending as well. Quite strange actually. But anyway: the spotmeter 1/21 is an older model. The spotmeter has a redesigned circuit and only one power source/battery instead of two. You can read all about it here in my other posts I have made.

author: Chris_D
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2021, 06:44:48 pm
content: Quote from: Niklas on November 04, 2021, 06:15:00 amBy the way, I'm still convinced the components shown in that particalur post are resistors (of some kind), because I've desoldered one today and it still reads approx.178 ohm.And I'm currently trying to make a schematic diagram of the whole thing and it is more clear than ever that the circuit for the lamp is a simple subcircuit, and that it must be a resistor (of some sort) to make the lamp less bright. In such a succesful manner that most of the time it doesn't burn at all. :)But many users of this version of spotmeter are complaining about this phenomenon: either it is to dim or it is not working at all. And I still blame the resistor.
Trying to repair a power supply of an active speaker, Class D - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Yamin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2019, 07:55:42 pm
content: Hi guys,I've got a RCF art735-a in for repair which went through a power surge. The half bridge driver IR21531 was fried with the top chipped off. One of the mosfet was shorted along with few other components.Luckily I had the exact same board with the amplifier section fried. So I started replacing the power supply components from it.Here's what's happening now- The power supply is not starting up. There's no voltage at VCC pin of the IR21531.First question- Is it okay to turn on a class D amplifier without a load connected? I'am just trying to check whether the power supply works, and I do not have an input signal applied.I have attached a diagram of the effected area/ and noted the components changed. I also changed Q6 as it was shorted too (shown in the picture), not sure how its used.What I have noticed is on start up the supply voltage is dropped across 'the start up resistors and there is no voltage at VCC. Why could this be?I checked across VCC and COM (of the chip) with diode mode and I get a reading of 0.2V! with probes either way. Could this be a problem?Thanks in advance for the help

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2019, 08:09:21 pm
content: Quote from: Yamin on October 23, 2019, 07:55:42 pmYes, this is a problem. I'd expect either ballpark 0.7V (reverse) or something like open (forward) with a diode tester here. Look for more damaged components, or your replacement chip is fried.Usually this kind of IC releases the smoke if they experience high voltage at their outputs as a result of a shorted / failed MOSFET, I'd expect both MOSFETs blown, other components may also get damaged.With modern stuff, I'd assume it's safe to operate the amp without load - don't quote me if it wasn't

author: PKTKS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2019, 11:21:09 am
content: Quote from: Yamin on October 23, 2019, 07:55:42 pmDepends mostly on the supervisor.. and YES definitely you should use a load.Several supervisors are bounded to the specific load they were designed to.And this is a major problem as we all should or want to know ifdisconnecting the loads the supervisor will soft start... or not.This is a common problem diagnosing SMPS and one of thedrawbacks of SMPS as well. Components age and soft start may fail.Or just a dead short is causing the issue.Typical SMPS waste of time.Paul
Trying to repair a Zenith CRT. Parts burdened up. Can't find service manual. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: DC Jack
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2025, 09:35:42 pm
content: I picked up a Zenith tube tv with a 91 vintage and the tube test good so I want to see if I can save it. Discovered that the SMPS wasn't oscillating so I cleaned up a bunch of corroded traced and then discovered a few broken, burned, and exploded components. At this point I'm not good enough to guesstimate what these should or could be so I need the service manual. The problem is I can't find one.Any of you seen this one before?Edit: added an Imgur gallery.https://imgur.com/a/miQWpOg

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2025, 10:07:49 pm
content: I'm not familiar with Zenith TVs, but if you can determine the chassis type, then you may be able to find a service manual here:https://elektrotanya.com/showresult?what=zenith%20chassis&kategoria=tv&kat2=all&page=0#res

author: DC Jack
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2025, 12:45:33 am
content: Couldn't find anything that even closely matched.That electrotania db is great though. Thanks.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2025, 03:34:51 am
content: https://www.servicemanuals.net/en/ZENITH-SJ9263S-Service-Manual(paid download)

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 02, 2025, 02:57:04 pm
content: yep all direct to this web site ( paid ) .....Zenith worked a lot with frame / chassis numbering ...archive.org give a lot of results on Zenith systems, sometimes the SV manuaal had a document number, and you could find it by this number ....

author: DC Jack
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2025, 07:40:31 pm
content: Ok, I've spent way too much time searching and I'm giving up. I've also used pay-for-schematics sites three times in the past and every time they sent me something other than what I needed, and I only got my money back once. I'm done with those.Good news is that I found the SMPS chip is shorted on two legs that have no business being shorted. Pulled the datasheet for that chip and it has a bunch of recommended circuit designs. One of them seems to match what I am seeing on the chassis so I'm going to get a replacement chip and fill in the blanks unsung its datasheet.Wish me luck.
Trying to repair an electronic board has some components burned out - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Shaydzmi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2020, 12:52:02 pm
content: Hi, I am trying to figure out how to get this board working again.I'm just a learner, so all of your help is appreciated.As you can see D2 has burned out, it is exactly like D5 in the second picture.Please give me some ideas, from where to start...

author: madires
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2020, 01:26:24 pm
content: Try to reverse engineer the circuitry around the bad diode to figure out its purpose and to check if there are any other issues. A burnt diode usually means high current, e.g. caused by a shorted component.

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 09, 2020, 03:23:08 pm
content: While the picture is pretty good, it's not good enough to resolve the necessary details. What kind of device is this?

author: Shaydzmi
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2021, 08:43:17 pm
content: Thank you,This is an electronic oiler.Can you tell me what kind of diodes is this burnt one?

author: Chris56000
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2021, 12:48:45 am
content: Hi!These are Vishay SOD-80 (MELF) diodes of various types and a guide to their colour coding can be found here:–https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.vishay.com/docs/88912/diodesgroupbodymarking.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjJyoqg64jvAhUlShUIHb_vAIwQFjAAegQIBBAD&usg=AOvVaw0pcOfrHlpdBAVA5QPp7ij6Is there any sort of manual for this electronic oiler? – there's very often an overall wiring diagram of the machine given that shows what devices, motors, switches, power supplies, etc., are connected to the board, which may give a clue as to why D2 burnt out!Have a look on eBay or Google, you may be able to get a reasonably good picture of a board the same without the burnout for comparison purposes!Chris Williams
Trying to repair my padlock HELP - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jpoulos133
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 17, 2025, 05:20:34 pm
content: Hey, this is my first time here on here and actually first time on any forum in general. I have this TEMCo TH2020 Padlock Light that went dead a couple weeks ago. I opened it up checked the batteries and realized the bulb had come off. I tried putting the bulb back on and turning it and it does light up but there's no adhesive for it to stay. What should I use to stick it back on. Also what are all those components i see? I am interested in becoming an electirican one day and I am interested in learning about everything I canThanks!

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2025, 09:00:56 pm
content: That bulb is a 5mm LED. Its legs have snapped off, you will not be able to re-use it.You will have to buy a new LED (should only cost a few cents) and solder it where the old one used to go. There are two ways it can go in, one way it will work and the other it will not.

author: tryingtolearn
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2025, 09:15:35 pm
content: Spoken like most of my old crusty instructors back in the day.So JP - good on you for trying to see what the problem is and how to repair it vs just chucking it and spending your hard earned $$ on a new one.if you do decide to tackle the repair you will need to clean out where the + and - sybols are on the board (DEsolderThen get an LED like in the pics above, Leds are polarized so there is a positive leg or Anode (+) and a negative leg Cathode (-)Read up on that herehttps://www.switchelectronics.co.uk/blogs/news/led-polarity-basic-guide(In most cases the long 'leg' or pin will be the ANODE)Then just solder the new one in place Long leg in the hole marked + short leg in the hole marked -

author: Analog Kid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2025, 03:40:14 am
content: Probly want to get a "high-brightness" white LED so it'll actually light up what you're trying to see.Still very cheap.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2025, 05:11:13 am
content: I'll add that putting the LED in backwards will do it no harm. Just annoyanceTelling the difference between high-brightness and normal LEDs in the 5mm form factor is hard. The useful unit of light output is lumens, but most datasheets for 5mm LEDs give candela instead (which is much harder to compare because it depends on output angle). If you're buying a few loose LEDs from a physical store then bring a little CR2032 battery and sandwich it between the leads of each LED to test them, that will confirm the colour (often the coloured LEDs get mixed up with the white, they can look identical) and if they have multiple types/brands you can find out which is brighter.

author: tryingtolearn
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2025, 12:02:23 pm
content: 754's from adafruit work really well for this type of application -https://www.adafruit.com/product/754#technical-details
Trying to save a 576 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Zenwizard
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2019, 04:37:52 am
content: Got a 576 that was supposed to be in working order but it seems it is no even close. After rebuilding the collector supply, I managed to get sweep again on the tube but the tube is VERY dim The picture shows the tube with the intensity turned all the way up. I have a strong high voltage power supply and it is exactly where it should be. given how faded the graticule lines are I have a suspicion the former owner stored it in the sun and it baked the tube. Is there any way I can safely drive the tube a little harder to try and get some brightness back. I also probed the 225V intensify pulse and it seemed it was stuck high it was not pulsing like it should. Any way to bring this on back or do I have a parts unit? The odd thing is the tube is uniformly dim it is but burned just not bright.

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2019, 05:37:17 am
content: Not sure how much of the info you have so, these might be useful:https://jacmusic.com/Tube-testers/TEK-576/576.pdfhttps://jacmusic.com/Tube-testers/TEK-576/Tek-576-index.htmhttps://lazyelectrons.wordpress.com/2018/06/12/tektronix-576-curve-tracer-repair-restore/

author: Zenwizard
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2019, 01:12:06 am
content: voltages as measured from the rear CRT pins.1) -3815 Vdc2) -3841 Vdc3) -3840 Vdc4) -2667 Vdc5) NC6) NC7) 100 Vdc100 Vdc9) 100 Vdc10) 109 Vdc11) 52 Vdc12) NC13) -3814 Vdc14) - 3814 VdcHeater voltage ping 1-14) 5.9Vac

author: andy3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2019, 02:01:34 am
content: Check page 65 of the service manual where there is a good explanation of the CRT HV supply.I do not see the CRT screen voltage on the diagram bu there is a mention of -4kV in the section mentioned above.
Trying to source old Zoom ZFX-2 DSP chip from Yamaha mixer EFX board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: kehall
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 13, 2023, 09:18:02 pm
content: Hi WizardsJust wondering if anyone has any ideas where to source a Zoom ZFX-2 IC to replace a blown one in an old Yamaha 3000 mixer DSP board (LM7805 regulator lost its ground pin due to dry joints and I suspect output ran somewhere up to input voltage 15v)What else the ZFX-2 may be used in etc that I can get for parts perhaps... I've already tried a Zoom 505 guitar pedal for parts off ebay for a few quid (can resell) but sadly it has the ZFX-2L which is the 3.3v low power version not the 5V one in the circuit (it also interfaces with 5V SRAM and ADC so don't think I can down-voltage it successfully - I've already replaced the RAM and the microcontroller is communicating out to the DSP and data coming from the ADC too so these look ok). I am scoping zero transitions on the CAS/RAS/data/address lines to/from the RAM (all high) hence changed the RAM first leaving just the ZFX2.It's just a punt really not worth throwing any serious money at, would be nice to get all the functionality back though!Any help gratefully received!Kind regards,Keith.
TS-M8N - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lionelkjh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2020, 11:03:42 am
content: Hello; I am in the process of rehabilitating a small Chinese tester TS-MS8N (see picture), and I am looking for the diagram to be able to reprogram it directly with the TL 866. I also own the RT809H with all the connectors; I don't know which is better. Could someone help me? Many thanks for your dedication

author: lionelkjh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2020, 11:06:49 am
content: the picture

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2020, 11:31:36 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/$20-lcr-esr-transistor-checker-project/
TS-M8N+MK328+LCR-T4 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lionelkjh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2020, 06:36:21 pm
content: Good evening everyone! I am looking for software for the following 3 component testers: TS-M8N, MK-328, LCR-T4; because their respective microprocessors are dead (I attach the photos taken on the internet). Can you have the latest version of all of them ?? If this is not possible, is there any possibility of having the original version ?? Another question: the different versions can be in French ?? If this is not the case, I would be satisfied with English, because I have some notions of the language .... In advance, thanks for your dedication !!
TS100 display fault - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: artag
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2020, 12:27:06 am
content: My TS100 display has gone very dark. It's not completely out but is only just there, invisible unless in dark conditions.This happened fairly suddenly (it's not OLED fadeout) and I wondered if the display brightness had been turned down - but there's no such setting. I'm running default firmware.Anybody else seen this problem ?

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 24, 2020, 12:47:52 am
content: Sounds like there is brightness setting in this FW:https://github.com/Ralim/ts100/issues/415But may be a HW death:https://github.com/Ralim/ts100/issues/477

author: artag
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2020, 12:36:59 am
content: it's using stock firmware, though.And it didn't burn in - it was bright one day and dim the next time I used it.

author: Till Matte
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2020, 03:49:55 am
content: It might be the OLED connection problem, when the OLED dim happened, try to slightly press theOLEDconnection area, such as the welding area or the flexible cable or IC area, if the dimming can be changed, it might be the OLED connection problem.
TS1574 / ZD915 solder rework station display - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: e.deverick
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 08:48:22 am
content: Hi, could anyone explain how to update the firmware on the TS1574? I think it is similar in model to the ZD915. From my research the display board PCBs appear to be identical. (ZD-LTY-6 100120)The issue I am having is that the solder iron side setpoint does not display during normal operation. I believe it to be a firmware issue due to all 7-segment display sections lighting up correctly at start up, the iron heats up to ~175 and its actual temperature is displayed but setpoint cannot be seen or changed via the buttons. I have probed the buttons and all appear to actuate correctly.My hope is that the setpoint register has just been corrupted, however maybe someone here more familiar with displays can guess the root cause better.I found this thread which talks about reflashing the firmware of this board and in fact links editable firmware files which I thought I might be able to use to fix it.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/displaycontrol-board-for-zd915-deoldering-station/msg180959/#msg180959It mentions this is done using C2 interface and I have started reading AN127: Flash Programming via the C2 Interface. Assuming I am not venturing down the wrong rabbit hole, can anyone recommend an interface software or maybe a practical guide for programming using C2 once I figure out the correct pins to connect to?Cheers,Eric
TS80 Main Circuit Board Replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: infidell
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 10, 2020, 07:37:11 pm
content: I've had a TS80 for over a year and I love using it. I've built up my soldering kit around it and have become very dependent on it.Today I managed to overload the iron and fry the circuit board. I'm pretty sure it's beyond repair, for me at least.I've been searching everywhere I can think of for a replacement main board for the TS80, with no luck.Can anyone suggest a source for a replacement main board?Thanks.
TS80 Soldering Iron Short - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: WaldPinkler
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2020, 08:24:51 am
content: Hello people,It turns out you shouldn't be stupid and solder a live wire. At least the same circuit that is powering the iron.I touched a wire on the boat and it zapped the iron and blew the QC3 usb adapter.I'm not an expert so bear with me. The power supply ic in the usb adapter had a neat little hole in it.The TS80 board looks fine. Here an image from this site of the pcb (upper image).I noticed the green polyfuse wasn't working so I tried jumping that. (Damn, I tested this a couple of weeks ago but the power was getting through, I believe 4v of so out of the first IC). Otherwise there's no life.Any advice?
TSC915 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: lionelkjh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2022, 09:47:56 am
content: Good morning all! I ask for your help because I am looking for the integrated circuit TSC915 (DIP8); because I have not found anything on the internet, and moreover do you find an equivalent to this integrated circuit?? Thanks for your help!

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2022, 10:47:56 am
content: Looks like an op-amp from Teledyne Semiconductor for military application.Couldn't find a datasheet, justthis table, but check TSC913 (Page 70):http://bitsavers.trailing-edge.com/components/teledyne/_dataBooks/Teledyne_Data_Acquistion_IC_Data_Book_1986.pdfMight it beTC915instead TSC915?Hopefully it will give you some clues!

author: lionelkjh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2022, 08:50:44 am
content: Hello; it is indeed the TSC915 and not the TC915, but I found; in reality, its equivalent is an LTC1150 .....On the other hand; can you help me to identify the mysterious component welded in series with its brother next to the LTC1150?? (the box is a TO92; is it a diode??). Thank you for your research

author: lionelkjh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2022, 08:55:13 am
content: I attach the photo.....

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2022, 12:27:03 pm
content: J511constant current diode, 4.7mA

author: lionelkjh
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2022, 04:39:58 pm
content: Hello; yes, indeed, I found on the internet after 30 minutes of research; everything is on order from my supplier: thank you for your help and your speed!

author: tannersimmons78
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 24, 2022, 07:09:16 pm
content: Maybe try to search on a well-known Chinese site?
TSOP48 in circuit test  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: orion242
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 10, 2014, 12:35:54 am
content: So what are my options to connect up to a TSOP48 package on board? I want to be able to test and possibly write flash in circuit.Something like this.http://www.deltadesign.us/Is there anything in the hundred(ish) $ range or is the sky the limit. This would be low volume use.Thanks in advance.

author: Mr. OBrien
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 11, 2014, 01:44:41 am
content: http://www.adapters-plus.com/SOP-AND-TSOP-TEST-CLIPS/http://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/?art=MIKROE-1303I seems as though it might be worth designing your own.Maybe if we had a better idea what it was for.

author: orion242
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 15, 2014, 12:30:29 am
content: I have a few boards I suspect the firmware is corrupt on. They have a MC68334 processor with a bit of flash hanging on it. I was looking to try and reload the flash with a known working image and see what happens. There is a header that is attached to the MC6800 debugging pins which look like they could be used with some software and cables that are ~$600-$1k. I would rather not remove the flash of course, but $1k just to test out on a handful of units...Just looking for options and rough cost.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2014, 01:52:25 am
content: Something like this?http://www.wii-clip.com/360/uni-48.htmhttp://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/56Pin-and-48-pin-Universal-360-Clip-TSOP-NAND-Flash-Chip-for-PS3-NOR-Flash/501849_1051848636.html

author: orion242
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 16, 2014, 12:18:32 pm
content: Yep that looks like it will do the trick. For the money if it doesn't work I won't be too concerned.Thanks!

author: symbianas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 29, 2019, 02:38:08 pm
content: Hi, sorry for resurrecting old post, but I am also looking for cheapest in circuit TSOP48 reader/writer, to read flash memory for fun for my own pleasure. Does any one know device and connector which could do that?
TSX1820 - Output offset - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: TaylorD93
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2023, 03:18:04 pm
content: Hi,I am trying to adjust my TSX1820 (With the Programmable front panel) as it appears to have a fault, but im not getting much success.The issue is that if for example i set the PSU to 13.4V, the display reads 13.4V but in actualy fact it outputs 13.8VDC when in CV mode. But if i set a "low" current limit, and pull the PSU from CV mode into CC mode, the Volt meter on the PSU will then read exactly the correct value.I suspect this means there is an issue with the CV mode regulation circuit, but as perhaps the easiest thing first, i have run through the "adjustment" proceedure in the service manual, and its made no difference at all. Oddly the Volt meter adjustment didnt do anything until the PSU was again in CC mode.Coincidently my Oscilloscope has developed a trigger fault this week, so im pretty deflated that my TE around me is all seemingly dying!Thanks,Taylor

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2023, 12:35:49 pm
content: Have you tried different values, are there any patterns?
TTC wheel encoder for LG MR600 Remote Control  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sdancer75
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2022, 07:20:37 pm
content: I was looking for 4mm TTC wheel encoder for the LG MR600 remote control, but as far as I can find the minimum in the ebay or aliexpess is 5mm. Is that possible to find one somewhere?https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32457386770.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.7649331745Qs5D&browser_id=02c04ab50f0440e38fdd8133d31fd106&aff_trace_key=140185f9beea432094ed7933403f9f0f-1645365063509-08757-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=17f188ed12412e06fccca8e1669910f255bc689108&gclid=
TTi EX354T - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Rallusmurfen
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 08:35:27 am
content: I have a problem with an TTi EX354T...The mosfet Q5 goes up fast in temp, like 70 degrees Cand the resistors R118-120 gets even warmer... 150+ degrees CTrying to understand the problem but im stucked...I have change places on the mosfets but still Q5 gets warmest so i don´t think they are faulty.Link to service manual:http://pa2hs.kg-uitdaging.nl/documenten/TTI%20EX354D,%20T%20&%20Tv%20Series%20Service%20Manual.pdf(page 53, Mosfets and resistors up the top)

author: the Chris
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 09:58:59 am
content: I'm troubleshooting a similar behavior on a malfunctioning PSU currently, but with an IRF840.You've exchanged the NMOS, so they are probably not short. But this could be verified easily.If they aren't short, the gate must be fully opened for this much current to be conducted. So check if pin 20 on IC8 is high all the time. If so, the next question would be why the IC8 being a PFC controller thinks it should do so.

author: Rallusmurfen
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 10:12:48 am
content: Where do you see IC8?

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 10:33:10 am
content: Odd that only Q5 is misbaving! Check the integrity of R12, and that there no bad-connections/joints in the gate drive circuit, R12 through to TX1-B.

author: 2N3055
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 11:16:26 am
content: When you have parallel pair, if one transistor is heating too much, check if the other is too cold...Always check both transistors, their driving circuits and current path..

author: the Chris
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 11:44:26 am
content: Left to Q5EDIT: I understand the confusion, you refered to PDF page 53 whereas I was looking at page 53 according to the page numbering, which is pdf page 54.

author: nfb
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2025, 01:16:45 pm
content: Check the leakage of capacitors C101 and C17 in the snubber circuit. Ceramic HV capacitors often fail this way.
TTi EX355P Power Supply - Current Limit problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: alfredo80
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 24, 2024, 12:38:51 pm
content: Hi to all the electronics passionates that will read this post.My TTi EX355P Power supply has a strange problem : when I try to set the current limit, I start to rotate the current knob and I see the value increments on the display. Then, at 2 Amps it stops. The Power Suplly is rated 5 Amps and I can't understand why I can't reach the full rating.I can't find the schematics online. I've found the EX354D service manual, but it has the analog potentiometers instead of encoders for current and voltage adjustment. In fact, I can see two TC516 DACs on my controller board that are not present on the EX354D schematics. They are used to set the references for the voltage and current loops, I gues.Any ideas for troubleshooting? I see there is a PIC microcontroller on the board. I hope it's not faulty because I don't have the Software to load into it.Thanks in advance to all,Alfredo

author: Harry_22
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2024, 06:46:17 pm
content: Hi Alfredo!Try to reduce output voltage. May be the output power is limited.

author: BenC
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 26, 2025, 07:11:57 am
content: Hi,did you find out what the problem was?I have an EX355P with the same issue.Ben
TTI LA3200 LA4800 logic analyser fault finding - Halts at first menu - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rh100605
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2021, 01:17:10 pm
content: I thought I would share a fault found in an LA4800. On power up the screen test passes but it halts before showing the main menu.The NiCad battery on the small CPU board had leaked and fluid was on the Flat cable that connects the upper and lower boards. After replacing the cable and cleaning the pin headers the problem still remained.The 6303 on the lower board was not responding to the serial link from the 6303 on the CPU board. Checking the crystals on the lower board found 3 failures !Hope this helps someone revive another LA3200/4800. The service manual is athttp://www.ko4bb.com/getsimple/index.php?id=manualsand then search for Thurlby Thandar la3200
TTI PL330 POWER SUPPLY - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Sajiv
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 02, 2020, 09:20:19 am
content: I have one old PL33O , Received as a gift, but not in working condition, the displays are on, also possible to change the values, but out put voltage at the load is 0 v , can any one help to fix this!Sajiv

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2020, 10:15:06 am
content: Got a few of these. Open it up and check the output switch first. They are usually what dies first.Picture here inside: should be able to continuity test it while not plugged in.

author: jones42
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 07, 2020, 11:39:59 am
content: usually there's two pieces of metal that connect the sense lines to the outputs.Those are missing here. so it might help to connect the sense lines to the outputs.