Damage assessment and possible repair of a Hasselblad X1D II - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Da-Dragon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2024, 12:11:26 pm
content: Hello folks!As in the title, I started the thread to analyse and possibly repair a damaged X1D II I acquired recently. Cause of damage was a fall from a tripod, impacting mainly the battery compartment and the lens mount unit.The camera was sent in to Hasselblad for a repair quote, revealing that it is a total economic loss, with repair costs being the same as a new camera.Here are the following components revealed to be damaged:Top unit flex PCB:One of the two smaller rotary encoders on this board was ripped off its mounts. This should be a trivial replacement. The encoder is an Alps part, though the number it is marked in wasn’t useful. Looking through the catalogue, it seems to be an EC05E1220401. The flex pcb seems only mildly damaged, with the two mounting pads being somewhat ripped from the board. My working assumption is that this can be rectified with a bit of superglue, as the pads are not connected with any traces.Damaged flex cables part 1:The two ‘surviving’ flex cables appear damaged. The Sensor cable has cracks in two places, but is in one piece. The plan is to solder the traces from both sides, and cover with solder mask and some tape for support.The display cable has severe indentation in it from the frame, but otherwise seems alright. I will presumably not be repairing it.Top module PCB:This PCB is horribly placed. I don’t think I can say much more about the specific mode of failure. It is likely that the PCB got impacted by the sensor and lens assembly during the drop, and is mildly borked because of it. It is the one part I am quite upset about, because this mode of failure is in my opinion entirely avoidable by changing the PCB placement.Problem 1:One of the IC capacitors is ripped off the board, and needs to be replaced.Is anyone able to help me id the IC to find out what the capacitor likely was?IMG3799IMG3800IMG3844The IC was dented by impacting some other component during the drop, and has an inscription which seems to beR/P A 80/89/60/69/98/99/90TI 8AICNETSo far I have not been able to find anything about this IC. Located nearby is a 32k crystal oscillator, and on the reverse side is some sort of connectivity ic.IMG3845IMG3848Problem 2:The drop cracked the semi-supported area of the PCB, ripping 4 traces and two plane areas. I am working on the assumption that it is a 2 layer PCB, and speaking to a friend of mine told me that Xraying the PCB probably wouldn’t be particularly helpful in identifying the stack up.IMG3770Ripped off lens mount cables:This is the only other component that I would consider to be severely screwed up. It is even more ‘screwed’ than the PCB, because the PCB at least is mostly complete. At this point, I see no other option than to contact Hasselblad about it and see if I can acquire a replacement part, or to contact Hasselblad and see if I can organise a mail in repair for that specific component.IMG3847Misc:The lower frame and battery compartment are somewhat bent. The battery no longer fits the camera. The plan is to disassemble the frame components and hopefully bend the parts back with sufficient application of a bench vice and some clamps. Not directly relevant for an electrically functional camera.TLDR Questions:Is there a better way of mounting the encoder to a pcb with somewhat damaged pads than using solder and superglue for extra support around the pad?What is the IC being used on the top PCB?Does anyone feel it is worth attempting to reverse engineer the two semi missing flex cables?The images I included don't seem to be showing up, and I have no clue why that is.

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2024, 04:30:23 pm
content: Bigger picture of PCB crack and how many conductors in the ribbon cable?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2024, 04:34:24 pm
content: Don’t use superglue. On the one hand, it’s brittle once cured. And on the other, it readily vaporizes when heated, making it very unsuited to PCB repair. Use epoxy instead.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2024, 04:55:08 pm
content: Try your part markings here:https://www.ti.com/packaging/en/docs/partlookup.tsp?partmarking=http://markingcodes.com/search/c/RA??http://markingcodes.com/search/c/PA??I found this, but it doesn't seem to match your external components:PA9Q, TPS7A8300RGRR, 2A, Low-Dropout Voltage Regulator for High Speed Communication Systemshttps://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps7a8300.pdf

author: Da-Dragon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2024, 10:03:50 pm
content: I'll try to provide a closer image, though I can't do that at home. This is the best I can do with a phone looking through my microscope, and I only have a 2x on it.As for the ribbon cables;The first appears to have 8 traces. I’m not quite sure how it was originally, because there seem to be two distinct ribbon cables in the same place with the same number of traces and damaged in the same way, but on top of each other. The colours aren’t quite the same to my eye.I haven’t counted the second remaining portion yet, but at a guess I’d say 15 or so.

author: Da-Dragon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 24, 2024, 10:07:41 pm
content: Thanks for the lead, I'll check it out. I'm guessing this is highly likely a Texas Instruments part then, considering the TI marking, though I didn't know they also came without the logo until today.At first glance it doesn't look completely off, I'll try to see if I can map out the traces based on their example use case. As long as it provides me a rough guesstimate about what capacitor might have been used, I'll be a step closer than I am right now.

author: u666sa
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2024, 03:58:59 am
content: This is not a 2 layer board.It could be repairable, but factor in 5 hours of labor. Plus you most likely would need a donor. Unless you have a donor readily available and willing to put in work yourself, I don't seem this to be financially viable.However,if the price like google says is $8,000, and labor comes out to something like $400, why not. But keep in mind, this is not a 2 layer board, so no guarantees, be prepared to pay a no repair fee in case you not doing the job yourself.

author: armandine2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2024, 01:39:08 pm
content: ... possible donor?https://www.mpb.com/en-uk/product/hasselblad-x1d-ii-50c

author: Da-Dragon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 03, 2024, 04:25:51 pm
content: Sadly, you seem to have been on the money. On the upside, it doesn't look like there's very many traces going through the area. (Yellow being the rough location of the crack) There's a bit of a problematic EMI shield in the same location, but at the same time it seems to have helped stop crack propagation.https://imgur.com/a/DCrrxnjSee the composite image I made in Photoshop.I'll try to get some further images out of it, but I have to assume most of what is showing through is planes in the lower levels.