hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Frequency synth 113MHz - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: meerweten
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2017, 12:36:23 pm
content: i've been designing a 113MHz to demodulate a signal.any thoughts on the design?Some info:i'm using a CDCE706/CDCE906 for generating the fequencies (up to 6 channels, only 3 used in my design) controlled using a pic16f628a (including a level shifter of mosfets)in my old board i couldn't program the PIc as i would destroy the CDCE...the frequency will be controllable using the 3 buttons i place on to it.3DViews:Top Layer:Bottom layer:a 3d pdf:http://greendigit.be/Projects/Synth/PCB-9006-R1%20PCB3D.PDFNormal pdf:http://greendigit.be/Projects/Synth/PCB-9006-R1.PDF

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2017, 03:21:56 pm
content: I would have probably chosen a different PIC/processor that doesn't require 5V programming voltages. That would have allowed you to run the entire design on 3.3V and save all that level conversion.Coincidentally I have just built a similar synthesis for my radio using Si5351a - there I am using an ATMega328 (wanted it to be Arduino-compatible because a lot of HAMs are not very microcontroller savvy) running directly at 3.3V and programmed either using 3.3V ISP programming or using serial bootloader. No level conversion needed.

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2017, 04:27:47 pm
content: Remove the thermal relief on the vias.You are routing the crystal lines close to one of the outputs. Probably not an issue, but I'd avoid it.As was said, dump the level conversion in favor of a CPU that can do 3.3V logic directly.You can use some of the programming pins as the GPIO for the buttons. You save on GPIOs and routing.Any reason to use 0805 caps for the crystal and 0603 everywhere else?(If P1 is the power connector) Use a real power connector or something that you can more easily connect to.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2017, 04:41:25 pm
content: Some of the ground plane extends a long way from a grounding via, thus making it look more like an antenna than ground.

author: sean0118
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2017, 04:41:35 pm
content: Quote from: daqq on June 11, 2017, 04:27:47 pmIf your using Altium, in the rules for Polygon Connect Style you can use the queries IsVia and IsPad to setup two separate rules.Also, you have silkscreen on your pads, the anode 'A' for the leds and 'U2'.

author: meerweten
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 11, 2017, 06:56:58 pm
content: Quote from: daqq on June 11, 2017, 04:27:47 pmsimply cuz i don't have caps in 0603 that small a 'size', 10n is lowest i got 0603Quote from: KJDS on June 11, 2017, 04:41:25 pmdarn didn't see that :p thanksi've been thinking about a other uc too, but i still have loads of the 628a around so jhe :pQuote from: sean0118 on June 11, 2017, 04:41:35 pmdon't realy mind the silk there, ok it isn't nice looking but hell :p i don't wanne make my board larger there.thanks for the tips on altium.Edit: edited the layout. thanks for the input
Fresco Logic FL1000  USB 3 datasheet /  help downloading datasheet from baidu  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: kyndal
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2021, 01:37:20 am
content: I'm trying to do a bit of a repair job on a laptop. and am hoping for datasheetor just pinout for Fresco Logic FL1000 USB3 chipit appears to be available on baido in china, but I could use a bit of help from someone better at Chinese than me.I managed to translate my way through the signup. but ended up needing a Chinese cellphone numberfor authentication..I believe the datasheet is available here? maby it is not "for real"https://wenku.baidu.com/view/ed34de5277232f60ddcca164.htmlthx

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2021, 04:15:11 am
content: Yes that appears to be the real datasheet, but I don't know how to download it either. On the other hand, I've found a text extraction of that here:https://www.wendangwang.com/doc/683ceeff28b4549947af65faIf you're just looking for a pinout, how about finding the schematic of the laptop?Or a possibly different one which uses the same IC?(See page 68)As a side-note, have you tried asking Fresco? Also tell them their site is another one of those "modern" abominations with lots of glitter and wankery but little actual useful information.
Fresh elko`s each project ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Jan Audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2020, 01:47:52 pm
content: Hi, do you order every time new elektrolithyc capacitors for each project ?I have 10 year old ones laying around, should i throw them away ?I was so dumb to order 300 to stock-pile.How do you order ?

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2020, 01:52:26 pm
content: 10 year old is OK if originally not crap.If you are unsure, you can condition them by slowly charging them up to the rated voltage with a current-limiting series resistor (like 10k or something), but I wouldn't bother for 10-year old stuff.If you are actually making products and sell them, then I would be careful if you go much beyond that 10 years...Electrolytic caps are widely used in almost every product, and the products don't just go bad in ten years. Most work fine for 50 years or so, with some exceptions, but they are more exceptions than a rule.

author: Jan Audio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2020, 02:23:04 pm
content: Ah betters, i almost used them all.Euro-chemcon is good quality.
Friday afternoon: how not to wire a drill press - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2014, 06:24:07 am
content: Very, very subtle.This is the bottom end of the AC induction motor from my drill press. Taken off from the area shown is a centrifugal switch that depresses the metal ring in the centre when the drill is not up to speed, presumably to limit inrush current.

author: SteveH
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2014, 08:01:58 am
content: Whats subtle about it? The centrifugal switch takes the start windings out of circuit when the rotor is up to speed.

author: ConKbot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2014, 12:40:11 pm
content: Subtle is the one lug resting against the frame, so either GFI trips, or the circuit breaker trip when you plug it in. One will be a tad more exciting than the other.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2014, 06:22:17 pm
content: Or morre common is the frame is not grounded........

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 01:32:39 am
content: Quote from: ConKbot on December 19, 2014, 12:40:11 pmGot itMy earth detection and resettable fuse both tripped, but not fast enough to avoid a lightshow. The spade connector has a tiny, clean nick out of the side of it now, but is otherwise OK and the drill sustained no other damage.I made sure the body was earthed and the wiring was otherwise the right way around. It's interesting to note that it's grounded in two places: on the motor and at the switch on the main body.

author: Paul Moir
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2014, 03:00:54 am
content: I thought it was a ground and the little bit of metal on it was a contact going to the shaft so you wouldn't have to go through the bearings. Hey it even has a little green dot...Pretty bad! Is the crimp on the other fork as bad as it looks?

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 22, 2014, 01:21:06 am
content: Quote from: Paul Moir on December 20, 2014, 03:00:54 amThat green dot was a polarisation marking from when I pulled it apart, not knowing whether or not it was needed. I might stick to black permanent markers from now on.QuoteI'm assuming you're commenting on the very tight bend of the copper just as it leaves the crimp (I'm no crimping expert) Yes they're both like that, but this part of the motor is stationary so it should not be too bad.I've just had to regut the motor again twice. The first time because I scraped too much dirty grease out of the bearings without replacing it and the second because I had 'parts left over'. It's all working well now.
Fried PSU Resistor Replacement? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dexters_lab
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 23, 2017, 07:56:54 am
content: i picked up a small 3.5" HDD enclosure with a built in switching PSU a while ago, popped it open today to check it and found a very sad power resistor on the PSU... looks like it's been getting hot hot HOT!The PSU does seem to work ok with it like that, it has a good stable +5 & +12vwhat's the best course of action to replace? Try and remove it without it disintegrating and measure, replace with the closest spec?

author: ElektroQuark
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 23, 2017, 08:06:00 am
content: I would replace it, yes, but measure it BEFORE trying to remove.

author: jaromir
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 23, 2017, 08:24:43 am
content: Try to measure it as is, soldered into circuit. You may get distorted value, but better than nothing, if it disintegrates during removal.Then, I'd cut the longer lead, to remove it from circuit from one side and measure it again - this should yield accurate value, but at risk of damaging the resistor. Use thin cutter, to avoid bending of the leads/resistor as much as possible.Also, try to find out why the resistor was so much damaged. The new one will get as hot as this old. Maybe it's designed to run as hot, maybe something is wrong with the PSU - perhaps leaky capacitors?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2017, 08:49:56 am
content: An SMPS with no less than three high wattage resistors complete with ceramic standoffs and glass fibre insulation on thePrimaryside?[Edit: I think I can see a fourth].That must be one really inefficient power supply design! You might want to give some consideration to replacing it with something better.

author: dexters_lab
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 23, 2017, 09:40:25 am
content: it measures 72kohm in circuit but there is a capacitor charging somewhere.i'll snip it out and see what it reads out tothe PSU is in a pretty tight enclosure, i doubt i'd find a replacement that would fit and in reality it's probably not worth spending much on it

author: drussell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2017, 02:16:24 pm
content: Something doesn't make sense there... You need to take a look at that part of the circuit and see what that resistor is actually supposed to be doing in there. If it is currently 70k+ ohms, even constantly across 400 volts DC it would only be dissipating a couple watts. If it really is that high, there is a good chance that resistor is already fried so who knows that the value is supposed to be.Is it in parallel with anything else? If more than one of those resistors are parallel, maybe that one went down in value, took all the current and fried. If it is across a transformer winding it may supposed to be providing damping for inductive kick or something, maybe a diode that is supposed to take most of the spike is open? etc. etc...Find out where that resistor actuallyisin the circuit and then we can possibly deduce what is actually going on.
Friend looking for some training - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: johnny diaz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2013, 10:52:41 pm
content: I have a friend who is looking for some one on one component level training. He would like to learn how to troubleshoot an electronic device at the component level. He is located in Queens NY. He can come to you or you can go to his facility. Send me an pm with your information and how much you'd charge per session and I'll forward it to him.
From a system design point of view, is this a good voltage standard? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2015, 05:36:25 pm
content: This is, again, about my voltage transfer standard project. Now I have a semi-working reference module (VoltCard) and the binary Kelvin-Varley divider, I am thinking aspects of bigger system designing. Does this sounds reasonable:Board size: either Mini-ITX or micro-ATX, based on how large the DAC turned out to be.Mains power supply: ATX12V power supply. I have a few spares, and it gives me all the core voltages I need. It also comes with a fan so cooling is taken care of.Chassis: Since it used a PC main board form factor and a PC power supply already, a modified PC chassis seems suitable.Main microcontroller: ATmega328P, the same as Arduino, since it is easier to program.Connectivity: USB-UART using CH340G chip, this allows me to control and calibrate the unit using a computer.User Interface: besides banana jacks in the front and the back (only one is active at any time, relay switched,) there is also a 16x2 character LCD and a keypad.Also if I am building my own bench DMM design, the PC-based form factor probably will get reused.
From Electricity to Liquid Oxygen! Magic of Thermodynamics, Cryocoolers & Oxygen - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Hugoneus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2025, 07:01:57 pm
content: You can watch the video here: [46 Minutes]youtu.be/kakZ_fhfUHUIn this April 1st episode, The Signal Path enters a new era. Welcome to The Chemical Path! We are interested in designing a system which consumes only electricity and produces liquid oxygen. There are several fascinating physics and thermodynamic effects involved to achieve this.This video dives into the various scientific phenomenon and explores the operation of pressure swing absorption oxygen concentrators, ultrasonic oxygen sensors and Stirling cryocoolers in details.The demonstrated complete system consumes less than 300W while producing liquid oxygen at a steady pace. The beautiful blue liquid oxygen is verified to be paramagnetic and of course an aggressive oxidizer.

author: KE5FX
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2025, 09:01:11 pm
content: Great video. Looking forward to seeing what you can do with your new supply of LOX!
From Nanoamps To Gigahertz: The World’s Most Extreme Op Amps - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Trader
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 08, 2022, 12:13:19 pm
content: https://hackaday.com/2022/01/06/from-nanoamps-to-gigahertz-the-worlds-most-extreme-op-amps/

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2022, 06:28:12 am
content: I don't know if this is "extreme", buthttps://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/OAnd why yes, there is one in my closet.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 06:44:06 am
content: Nanoamps? They missed the solid state Philbrick P2 from 1961(!) with 5 to 10 picoamp typical input bias current (trimmable to less than 1pA with the offset trim), +/-200 volt input common mode range, and infinite common mode rejection:http://www.philbrickarchive.org/p2%20and%206033%20ad%20rsi%20vol32%20no6%20june1961.pdfhttps://books.google.com/books?id=Kcv8BAAAQBAJ&pg=PA72&lpg=PA67&dq=Philbrick+P-2&source=bl&ots=spTAKv58_J&sig=UkIDXapzfihaGuwCDrMTuKLhUhk&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi1-8LQ-YXOAhXCFR4KHXY1CEwQ6AEIKTAC#v=onepage&q=Philbrick%20P-2&f=false

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 10, 2022, 08:19:20 am
content: The nA current is not the input bias current, but the supply current for some of the super low power OPs.The low end input bias current is in the low fA range for somerthing like the ADA4530.Some of the old varactor bridge OPs are still good with low bias and a large common mode range in some cases exceeding the supply range.Even with transfromer coupling there is no infinite common mode rejection, at least not for AC.
From schematic to PCB - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2014, 05:08:41 pm
content: This is how I design and make PCBs out of schematics. I would appreciate any hints and suggestions so as to improve.<<< Excluding issues like required track lengths and shapes for high F, or minimum spacings for high voltages. >>>1) I usually start with the components which must be placed in a particular place/way, for example heatsinks, transformers, wire to board connectors and so on.2) I then place ICs (typically op-amps or CMOS). I place various components around the ICs so as to minimise the traces as much as possible.3) I am limited to two sided boards only (what I can make at home). I use power line wire connections to all parts of the PCB that need power, V+, V-, for example op-amps. That frees me from the trouble of having to route long power tracks all over the board. Each IC typically has bypass caps very close to it.4) I also use wire connections between different parts of the PCB to connect subsections. That means I can divide the schematic into sub-sections, and each sub-section is connected to the rest of the world with one or two signal lines, so I typically use wire connections and that allows me to lay the tracks of these sub-sections independently of the others and be able to move them around on the PCB.5) Because I cannot put rivets on the two sided board, I avoid top layer connections to any ICs. It is very hard to solder the pins of an IC on the top layer (not impossible but hard). So I start by routing the traces out of the IC pins on the bottom layer first to guarantee that I will not need to solder anything on top.6) In case that a top layer route is necessary that connects to one of the IC's pins, I use a via somewhere near the pin and I lay a track from the via to the pin on the bottom side of the board and the top track on the via, so that the top track does not need to connect directly to any IC pins. That makes soldering life easier.7) I purposely do not route the ground traces and at the end, when all other traces are placed, I use a two sided copper pour to do the ground. I then make sure I do not have islands, or unconnected sections and make sure the "ground" has good continuity everywhere and especially where it matters (eg where I expect higher currents). Sometimes I have to move components and tracks to allow the copper pour to fill in all necessary areas.
From theory to practice circuit creation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ChrisGreece52
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2018, 08:50:54 pm
content: Hello i have almost completed a project i worked off and on for about 3 years. I have posted many problems i have faced on this forum in the process and you guys helped me solve all of the theoretical issues i faced. The project is a CMOS based digital clock using 74HC390 decade counters , logic gates to reset the counters and CD4530's 7 segment drivers for the output.Now that its almost complete (PCB layout routing etc) and i am ready to order everything i want to make sure that the my theoretical circuit actually works. ( I will have the schematic bellow for anyone interested in taking a look at it)Also i would like to add a battery backup circuit that switches to battery power whenever power gets cut off so if anyone has good circuit idea. As you will see in the schematic i found a battery backup circuit but after some thought i do not thing it would be a good idea to supply the circuit through a 1N4148 diode (D7 on the schematic)i would like to avoid the dual diode circuit because i thought of using a TP4056 module such as thishttps://www.banggood.com/TP4056-Micro-USB-5V-1A-Lithium-Battery-Charging-Module-Board-TE585-Lipo-Charger-p-1225993.html?rmmds=buyDisclaimer 1 *I have no idea if my circuit works no tests have been done on it*Disclaimer 2 *I have not done the theoretical current measurements on the circuit loops*Disclaimer 3 *I know that it could use some improvement (Bypass caps on the counter ics ,etc)*
Front panel colours for HP gear? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2019, 04:43:08 pm
content: I'm designing some additional labels for my HP6644A PSU that I am adding front panel binding posts to and I got to thinking, what the actual RGB or CMYK values for 80's/90's HP test gear is.I have taken a photo of my panel to attempt to colour match from to try to account for yellowing, but it would be interesting (to me at least) to know what the actual colours used were.Does anyone happen to know the answer?

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 05, 2019, 04:48:38 pm
content: You might try searching the trademark files. Some companies have included specific color definitions in their trademark material. Don't know if HP is one.
Front panel connectors question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: prasimix
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 25, 2016, 09:45:27 am
content: Dear all, I need your assistance regarding issue providing connection points on the front panel. I'd like to make available few low-power (signal) lines using 2 or 3 pin connectors that have to be mounted on PCB behind front panel. The problem is that distance between PCB and front panel is 14 mm and front panel thickness could be between 2 and 3 mm and I have trouble finding connectors that is high enough. Probably I can decrease the distance but not below 11.5 mm. Connector could be classical header/socket type or push-in. So far the closer one isWeidmuller LSF-SMT.It's 11.7 mm high or 14 mm with push button included. There is another from the same manufacturer (LMF series) with overall height of 19.2 mm but it's still not available via major suppliers:I didn't find any header/socket combination to manage such depth. Thanks in advance.

author: exmadscientist
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2016, 04:43:21 pm
content: Use a standard panel mount connector of your choice, terminated in wires. Have a socket on your PCB with a wire-to-board connector. Simple, adaptable, robust, and easy to maintain.

author: prasimix
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 26, 2016, 05:17:37 pm
content: Quote from: exmadscientist on January 26, 2016, 04:43:21 pmHm, That was my first idea. Don't you think that plugging/unplugging could be problematic when you cannot hold a connector top all the way down to the connector on board? Or I missed something? Could you mention any "standard" connectors as an example please.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2016, 05:55:46 pm
content: If its for LF test signals, 2mm miniature test sockets are a good choice. An unshielded DMM probe will plug straight in. If its for more permanent use, especially for groups of wires, you'd do better to look at plug-in screw terminal blocks

author: exmadscientist
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2016, 02:38:38 am
content: One standard connector is the banana jack :Mount it to the panel. Have a wire terminating on whatever connector you want that goes to the PCB.QuoteI don't understand. Are you concerned about load transmission? In my experience the mechanical engineers are always much happier with stuff attached to the chassis rather than the PCB....

author: prasimix
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 27, 2016, 08:16:07 am
content: Thanks exmadscientist and Ian.M. I'm aware of binding post of 2 and 4 mm. Both of them are far too big. I need to expose up to 7 lines times 2 (for two channels) and I don't have enough space on the front panel (there is already five 4 mm binding posts located). Because of that I'm now searching for more compact solution.

author: prasimix
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 12:53:36 pm
content: Another possible candidate is WESerie 4039-2.54mm. I ordered few of them to see how wire insertion and removal works in practice.
Front Panel Express Software - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2019, 06:21:39 pm
content: Does anybody have experience of using Front Panel Express and their software? Specifically I need to know how to design labels for rotary switches with 30 degree indexing similar to the BAND and METER switches in the following image:https://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/2/5/1/1/7/9/webimg/936682014_o.jpg
Easy Front Panel Text and Artwork on Aluminium Enclosures with Toner Transfer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: AlessandroAU
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2014, 05:57:13 pm
content: Hi everyone, I just wanted to share a quick video about making front panel text or artwork on aluminium enclosures with the toner transfer method. Its basically the same method as PCB toner transfer and it's an easy way to add a finishing touch to a project.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2014, 06:34:59 pm
content: Not bad, I used to just make the front panel and then laminate it with a hot laminator, using a second sheet behind the first so that you can cut and have a paper backed sheet, then glue it down with spray adhesive. Gave a good finish which wears well, though edges are a problem as they can peel. Some I just used the paper and used the polyurethane spray to both stick it down to the panel and to give a gloss protective layer to the paper.

author: AlessandroAU
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 06, 2014, 07:44:26 pm
content: Quote from: SeanB on October 06, 2014, 06:34:59 pmI find paper never really stays on well enough, tends to pick up dirt too. I've also tried electrochemical etching with the toner method but the results are never any good because I can't lay down a thick enough coating of toner.
Front Panels - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Excoriator
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2025, 01:00:50 am
content: Hopefully my way of making professional looking front panels will be of interest to others.Getting sheet aluminium laser cut is a service provided by several Chinese PC manufacturers, but I found a UK Firm - Fractory - was prepred to produce ten off of a panel roughly 70mm by 230mm with a variety of cut outs for switches and BNC connectors for around £70. I imagine you can get smaller quantities for a moderate fee from chinese companies too.I sent them a design file and received the accurately cut panels. These were unmarked, so I sprayed them a cream colour, and instead of silk screening used a water transfer system. This allowed me to print the markings - labels and titles and logos etc onto the transfer material which I bought online as A4 sheets - using a colour laser printer. The resolution is limited only by that of the printer. I guess you could print colour photographs as a background if you wanted to and get quite acceptable results.The material is available on the internet and consists of backing card with a thin plastic film carrying the design. I could get two panels printed on an A4 sheet, which I cut to slightly smaller than the panel. These were soaked in water for two or three minutes which releases the film from the backing. I was able to slide the transfer film from the backing sheet onto the panel, and gently stroke it with card to exclude water bubbles from beneath it.I left them for a day or two to dry (You can also dry it in an oven a 100C) and the result seems to be every bit as durable as silk screening. The film hardens and sticks to the panel. The resolution is better than silk screening. I suppose you could give it a coat of spray on varnish, but I didn't bother. You have to cut the film which covers the holes, but you can do this when its dry with a scalpel quickly enough.I've used one of the final project - an Audio oscillator with a built in digital frequency meter - myself for about a year and the transfer seems as good as new. Some friends I've made them for have found the same thing so I believe durability is not a problem.Hopefully, this will help others make professional looking front panels simply and easily and at minimal expense and hassle.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2025, 01:08:34 am
content: Thanks for the info, good looking front panels in small quantities at reasonable cost can be quite a challenge.
front pannel design - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: grifftech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2016, 10:23:04 pm
content: I am adding a volt meter to a project and designed this frame for it:The volt meter is from banggood:http://www.banggood.com/0_28-Inch-2_5V-30V-Mini-Digital-Voltmeter-p-974258.html( I got the red one.) It is still on its way from china. Feel free to modify my design. I will post more when I get the parts.

author: Blastcap
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2016, 07:46:38 am
content: With the info i can't really see what to change and why.But how bout some more info, like panel material and thickness, are you planing to make the front panel before or after you get the meter, do you have a precise cutout dimension?What tools do you have at your disposal, and what are the small 3V - 6V in the bottom right corner?

author: grifftech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2016, 01:07:46 am
content: Quote from: Blastcap on August 18, 2016, 07:46:38 amplywood, 1/4 inch, after, use the link, drill and utility knife, two different voltage rails
FT-101ZD drive problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: christopher iles
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2013, 06:11:19 am
content: Hello All,I have a Yaesu FT-101zd. On transmit the idle current is 50mA but doesn't increase when the drive pot is rotated. The screen volts on the driver valve are there and the H.T. on the final anodes is 920vdc. I replaced the driver valve as I happened to have one, the drive pot is good, I have also checked alignment and cleaned all switches in the set. Has anyone had this problem and if so could you point me in the right direction as to what is the culprit please. The receiver is brilliant and it would be great to get the transmitter working properly again. Thanks for reading this, hope you can help!

author: Zepnat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2013, 10:56:28 pm
content: Read somewhere a long time ago that its quite common for a capacitor to short out in the stage before the final amp, I think it was between a screen/grid/coil and ground. It was a high voltage cap that's all I can remember, and the chances of finding the article it was in are pretty small now sorry.edit:Something like C8 or C11, for example. In the manual it gives various voltage to check for, could scan it for you.

author: Radio Tech
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 29, 2013, 01:47:13 am
content: You can find the service manual here.http://qrzcq.com/pub/RADIO_MANUALS/YAESU/YAESU--FT-101ZD-Service-Manual.pdfAlso check with the FoxTango group for helphttp://foxtango.org/foxtango001.htmAnd the yahoo grouphttp://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/FoxTango/infoAs Zap said it is most likely a leaking cap or some power resistors have gone bad. This radio has some age on it. There are some old molded mica caps that go bad.

author: Laszlo1970
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 20, 2024, 02:44:45 pm
content: Dear Zepnat!I have Sommerkamp FT277ZD , it is the same transceiver like Yaesu ft101zd. On 160m and 10m no power output, other bands is ok ,100W. If I try to increase the drive , it does not matter, only 50mA, preselector also does not matter.Any idea, can you help me? Thanks
ft Doubler - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 02:37:00 am
content: While reading recently I came across a reference to an "ft doubler" originally developed by an engineer at Tektronix. I had never heard of it before so I did a little searching and came up with the following basic LTSpice circuit. The idea is if you use 2 devices at half the gain of a single device you will get the same current output from the 2 devices summed together but twice the bandwidth of the single device. I've put that badly but the circuit illustrates the idea simply. Just compare the currents through R1 and R2 in the AC analysis. Setting the bias currents of Q1 and Q2 to roughly half that of Q3 sets their gm to half that of Q3.I am sure many of you already know this technique, but perhaps some like myself will be edified by it.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 02:43:17 am
content: Here's the circuit for quick viewing:

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 02:44:48 am
content: Thanks for that.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 03:31:30 am
content: One important thing to note about this setup is that while it might double the effective fT, it also doubles the effective collector-base/Miller capacitance, which I find is more often the dominating factor anyway.Actually, it's likely to (possibly significantly) more than double it, as the layout will become a bit messy doing this too.Just use a faster transistor

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 08:21:38 am
content: I seem to recall the key being B-E are connected in series (not as shown). Like a diff amp, except a diff amp makes complementary signals... if you arrange it so they're both on the same side (it would look something like a Darlington, but with equal bias through both devices), you get same polarity collector currents, which can therefore be added in parallel.The effect of capacitance can be reduced by using lower impedances, or distributed stages, but the former only works until you need more voltage swing, and costs lots of power dissipation and noise factor. The latter requires low loss components, which BJTs aren't (I recall the statistic being, you can make about 4 stages in a distributed BJT amp, before diminishing returns are just too useless, or fold entirely into overall losses). MOSFETs are better (monolithic dist. amps typically run 4-8 stages and achieve GBW in the fractional-THz range), and vacuum tubes better still in that regard (hence the 10-wide distributed amps in the last vacuum-state Tek gear).Tim

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 11:11:28 pm
content: I am sorry but my original post was incorrect. The difference in bandwidths was due to falling transistor ft with rising currents. This new file is corrected. T3sl4co1l is correct in that the original configuration uses diff amps into cascode transistors to reduce the capacitance. My new version however is a reasonable simplification, just to convey the basic principal.
FT2232H - maximum allowed current through all GPIOs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: julianl
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 17, 2025, 06:38:28 pm
content: Hi all,I cannot figure out the maximum allowed sink / source current through all GPIOs of the FT2232H.I'm used to datasheets that provide numbers for "current per pin" and "current through Vcc and GND" or similar, but this one only gives the following information:Here is the datasheet:https://ftdichip.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/DS_FT2232H.pdfOn page 47, Table 51, "Absolute Maximum Ratings" it states:DC Output Current – Outputs: 16 mAYou can configure the I/O drive strength (4, 8, 12 or 16mA), so a total of 16 mA for all seems quite low.So, is this number the total for all I/Os or just for one output?Thanks and best,Julian

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2025, 01:12:31 pm
content: and the 1st question would be what do you want to drive with the gpiosnormally you use or add a chip as a buffer current amplifier, the gpios are normally strong enough to drive a led no more

author: julianl
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 18, 2025, 02:07:27 pm
content: Good point - I should have mentioned it right away.I'm using the chip as a USB to UART / SPI adapter, but want to add a few SSRs (TLP241A) to the setup since that would be easy and convenient to do.At ~7.5mA per SSR, this could mean two or possibly more.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2025, 03:56:41 pm
content: Its got eight ground pins and no mention of any per package dissipation or current limit, so I would therefore read that as max. 16mA per output.
SOLVED: FT231X: CTS? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2020, 08:56:22 am
content: I'm using a FT231X for the first time and having a bit of troubleFrom the PC side connecting into the FT231X all is good and I can run FT-PROG etc. If I connect realterm I can send in characters and get one of the LEDs to flash (I think the labels are the wrong way around but that is not a big deal), however on the other side if I generate characters at the PIC side I do not get an LED flash and neither do characters appear at the terminal.I did not need hardware handshake so I left pins 19, 6, 18, 4, 5 & 2 disconnected.I'm starting to wonder if pin 19 or 6 should not have been left floating?

author: ni.st
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 27, 2020, 11:27:18 am
content: The unused pins may be left floating.But this reset connection with C20 in series looks a bit strange to me. How is it connected to the uC?Are you sure the uC is working correctly, have you hooked up a scope or LA?

author: Dave
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2020, 12:06:55 pm
content: I've dealt with this type of problem before.Lesson learned: Read theerrata.Try configuring one CBUS pin as a #Keep_Awake through FT-PROG and short that pin to ground.

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2020, 12:11:58 pm
content: Quote from: ni.st on May 27, 2020, 11:27:18 amGood newsQuote from: ni.st on May 27, 2020, 11:27:18 amI think that is OKQuote from: ni.st on May 27, 2020, 11:27:18 amI did yesterday. Looks OK.There are things that I cannot see.. specifically under the QFN.... so I was doubting myself.

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2020, 12:12:38 pm
content: Quote from: Dave on May 27, 2020, 12:06:55 pmThat's interesting. I will explore that.

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2020, 12:59:59 pm
content: This is what is going into Pin 1 of the FT231XQIt's a long time since I probed serial lines but... is HI the default state? Maybe the FT231XQ is pulling it up at idle?My test program should just be sending '*' at 1Hz... now '*' is 2A i.e. 0010 1010and I see...0010100 with the last zero being a stop bit... as in 8-None-1But I don't see a start bit from the dsPIC33EV256GM006.... weirdWas reading it the wrong way of course... lsb is transmitted first.

author: Dave
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2020, 01:26:45 pm
content: Yes, the idle state on a UART line is logic high.You're seeing the correct signal. Start bit is logic 0, then you have your character (least significant bit transmitted first) and the stop bit, which is logic 1.See example:

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2020, 08:10:01 pm
content: Not sure if it was heat damage or just my inability to hand solder QFNs but I replaced the QFN and on the4thattempt it worked. Weird!
FT231XQ to dsPIC33EV256GM006-I_PT: PIC Deaf? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2020, 03:03:08 pm
content: I'm using parts that are new to me and a bit confused...I have a FT231XQ which is USB powered and connected via 1k resistors to a dsPIC33EV256GM006 also USB i.e. 5VTransmitting from the PIC to the FT231XQ to my PC works fine...Receiving is very weird... On the PIC I am getting RX interrupts by the data is always 0x00; it looks like it is correctly decoding the frame but always reading zero.Now... a close inspection of the data sheets suggests the FT231XQ will output to VCCIO which in turn is supplied from 3V3OUT and scoping shows that what is going into the PIC is of similar levels.On the PIC I am receiving on pin 31 which is RPI24/RA8Could it be that my level is high enough for some function but not high enough for others?Reading the spec says Data I/O HI should be 0.75VDD = 5*0.75 = 3.75V so I am out of spec.Any quick bodge I could try to pull it up high enough?I'm not sure if this is a hardware issue or that I am fighting against MCC.Thanks in advance

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2020, 03:34:06 pm
content: Had to look at the product to figure out the dsPIC33EV256GM006 was a 5V part only.So yeah you're definitely out of spec. The easiest would be to add a level shifter. You could do that with a couple transistors if you don't want to use a full-blown level shifter.Don't bother trying to "understand" the behavior - it's likely a bit random as you're probably close to the actual threshold for the HI level (0.75*VDD is a guaranteed treshold - a safe figure - not the actual threshold for a particular part.) Design to specs.

author: voltsandjolts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 06, 2020, 03:44:47 pm
content: You could try a 680 Ohm pullup to 5V as a quick and nasty hack.

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2020, 04:12:09 pm
content: Thankfully CNPUA = 0x0100 was enough!Getting data now.Maybe URXINV and a BS138 inverting shift with and a 10k pull up for Rev 3!
FT232 strange behavior - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Druzyek
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2015, 07:38:28 am
content: I deadbugged an SSOP28 FT232R and now it is acting a little strange. It enumerates fine under Windows 7 when I plug it in but does not loop back data when I connect RX to TX. It was a few months ago when I soldered it on but as I remember it did loop data back at that time. I connected it to a microcontroller and can receive data fine from there to the PC. The odd thing is when I try to send data to the microcontroller from the PC. I have the microcontroller relay over TX anything it receives over RX (the same as loopback) once per second and when I first plug it in, it waits for my input as expected. It loops back any input I give it as expected but after the first character, if no input is available it continuously returns the number 176 (0xB0). It is as if the FT232 constantly spews that number out over TX unless it has received something else it is supposed to TX, in which case it does what it is supposed to.The microcontroller and the loopback code seem good since everything works as expected when I try with an FTDI cable (TTL-232R.) The chip came from Mouser so I don't think it is a fake. Comparing EEPROM data between the chip and the cable was exactly the same except the serial numbers and the cable was set to use high current I/Os. The circuit I am using is the one on page 23 of the datasheet (http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/DataSheets/ICs/DS_FT232R.pdf) except I didn't have a ferrite bead and my microcontroller is running from the 3.3v output (it should be taking less than 10mA.) The USB line reads 5.1v and the 3.3v output is about 3.28v. Checking the resistance of all of the soldered pins shows that they are connected as expected and there don't seem to be any shorts.Any idea what could cause this?
FT232H + PIC24EP512GU810 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: tomgroenland
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 25, 2012, 09:20:20 pm
content: Hey everyone.I have been working on implementing the FT232H usb chip from FTDI using the CPU-style FIFO interface. Does anyone know what kind of speeds I can realistically achieve?Thanks!

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2012, 02:31:45 am
content: Your question is very broad.however, you can get up to 115200bps throughput reliably.Regards
FT232R configuring "load vcp" automatically  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: cmcraeslo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2019, 07:35:45 am
content: Hey guys.I have a FT232 project that, when I connect to the USB, doesn't load the VCP drivers automatically (windows). Now i know that I can easily just check the "load vcp" in the advanced tab under "USB Serial Converter", but I want this to be automatically selected when (new) customer connects this device. I'm looking at FT_Prog and I don't see this option there. I do however know of this option in the ftdi .inf, which I don't want to modify. I don't want to supply my own drivers when there's native windows support.How can I select this to be checked by default in the eeprom. FT_Prog doesn't seem to support this (using the interface), but there has to be a way.Thanks

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 21, 2019, 03:10:33 pm
content: It should be settable with FT_Prog. I don't have a FT232R device handy, but from this:https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/AppNotes/AN_107_AdvancedDriverOptions_AN_000073.pdfthey say it's an EEPROM option in the FT232R. I have a couple adapters with a FT230X though, and the FT_Prog option can be found under: FT_EEPROM/Hardware Specific/Port A/Driver in the settings tree.You can normally select between "D2XX Direct" or "Virtual COM Port". I guess in your case, it's on "D2XX" for some reason (I don't think it's the default, so the EEPROM must have been programmed already). I doubt this option is not available on the FT232R, but please report.The EEPROM setting, default value in .INF and the option in one of the device properties tab are the only 3 possible ways of doing this that I know of and that are mentioned in the above document. Check again with FT_Prog as suggested, looking for the "Driver" section in the "Hardware Specific" part.
FT232R self power through data input protection diode....  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Smokey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 17, 2016, 01:18:20 am
content: If there weren't already enough things that could screw a design.....http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/109092/preventing-parasitic-powering-of-ft232rl-by-atmega328phttp://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/145073/ftdi-ft232rl-powers-itself-through-rx-tx-lineshttp://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/141547/a-circuit-to-prevent-parasitic-powering-of-ft232rl-by-mcu-will-it-work
FT232RL Chip is not working (USB to TTL) please help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: aiakon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2022, 07:41:17 am
content: First of all this is an urgent question my project's deadline is coming closer. Please help meI used FT232RL chip to make USB to TTL converter. I did this connection below. I can make serial communication but I cannot receive any message. I can also send message and TX Led is lightining up. What is wrong can you help me ?

author: jc101
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2022, 08:36:36 am
content: Check the datasheet, but doesn't VCCIO get connected to VCC and just a decoupling cap on 3V3OUT if your uC is running at 5V?

author: aiakon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2022, 11:17:07 am
content: I found the problem. I made a mistake another part of my pcb design.Thanks anyways