hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Is there a better way to fix this filter capacitor than replacing it? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: daisizhou
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2024, 11:02:22 pm
content: Hallo allThis is a power supply for a door access system,220v AC input transformer,12V AC output, then enters the circuit board.The output of the circuit board is connected to an electromagnet.Normal operation requires the electromagnet to be attracted, so the power supply will work for a long time.Initial capacitance is 25v 3300uf electrolytic capacitor,I chose to replace it with a 50v 2200uf electrolytic capacitor, but the lifespan is usually not very long.It became ineffective after about 1 year of use.Therefore, electrolytic capacitors need to be replaced frequentlyIs there a better way?

author: Kim Christensen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2024, 11:52:30 pm
content: Well, it doesn't look like it's getting hot. (PCB doesn't look darkened) Does U1's heatsink get hot?Usually high temperatures combined with high ripple current will reduce the life of the capacitor.Could be that the capacitor you used was low quality and/or is rated for 85C. A good quality 105C rated capacitor should last longer than one year. Also look at what lifespan the manufacturer states on their datasheet. Use a 3300uF one too.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2024, 03:50:51 am
content: Use trusted brands and keep the temperature low. Higher temperatures are very, very bad for the capacitors lifespan.- Buy a good quality capacitors (same capacitance as the original, same voltage as the original), higher voltage does not help, but higher capacitance might be helpful. Smaller capacitance does things worst (leads to more voltage ripple, and more heating internally).- Change the mounting location away from heat sources - move the capacitor further from the radiator, or move the component on the radiator somewhere else, or add a wall of thermal insulatin between the capacitor and the radiator. Do not encircle the capacitor in thermal insulation, capacitors can generate heat, too, and you want to let the heat go away.- Make sure the box have good ventilation and good air flow - drill some holes in the enclosure of the power supply, or add a fan to blow cold air on the capacitor

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2024, 05:42:10 am
content: There seems to be a lot of rooms in the case, use the biggest cap you could fit, not a smaller one. Use ultra Longlife, that extra bucks spent will extend the need for future replacement to beyond your lifetime.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2024, 05:44:17 am
content: repair no once its set it likely formed to some extent even if you can remetalize it after unwrappingif it was round and not wound tight (hollow) then I might think OK its some how possible. but when its wrapped in a form factor other then the storage roll the material will probobly form on the new shape and be weakened if moved
Is there a bus protocol similar to CAN bus except with ethernet sized frames? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2019, 09:47:47 am
content: Not point to point like SLIP, but a multi-device bus.In the olden days there was 10base2 over coax but that disappeared long ago. Is there a modern equivalent?

author: HwAoRrDk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2019, 10:44:08 am
content: Well, there is CAN FD, which can have 64 bytes of payload data per message, but that is only equivalent to the least amount of data an ethernet frame can carry.

author: max_torque
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2019, 06:15:43 pm
content: RS-485 with your own protocol / packetisation?

author: MagicSmoker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2019, 07:04:29 pm
content: There's nothing stopping you from using CAN (or RS-485) physical layer components and writing your own ethernet-like protocol. Whether the amount of work required is justified here I leave to you to decide.

author: rounin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2019, 10:07:10 pm
content: Flexray is somewhere in the middle. 254 byte payload, looks to be time triggered instead of CSMA, ~10Mbps.

author: langwadt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2019, 10:29:56 pm
content: CAN andhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_15765-2?
Is there a downloadable scr databook? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: avitsur
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2021, 01:43:04 pm
content: Hi,Is there on the web a downloadable pdf of SCR databook?Thanx.

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2021, 02:53:30 pm
content: Indeed. Search for a somewhat generic hit such as "Semiconductors databook" as these companies would rarely have a databook dedicated to Thyristors.One hit at archive.org:https://archive.org/details/19681969TexasInstrumentsPreferredSemiconductorsAndComponentsDatabook/page/n7/mode/2up

author: avitsur
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2021, 04:07:07 am
content: Thanx.
Is there a "Github" or "GrabCad" equivalent for circuits? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: frmdstryr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2022, 02:00:59 pm
content: Eg somewhere were people share open source circuit designs?

author: ejeffrey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2022, 04:22:24 pm
content: I think that's basically GitHub. I don't know of any site that is more popular that has any electronics specific functionality.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2022, 05:59:02 pm
content: Easyeda?

author: frmdstryr
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2022, 06:24:04 pm
content: Ah thanks! EasyEDA (or the link tohttps://oshwlab.com) seems like what I'm looking for. The only thing I could find via a search washttp://www.discovercircuits.com/but that seems a bit dated...
Is there a good quality and safe CR123A rechargeable above 400 mAh? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: KJ-90
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 22, 2017, 05:41:44 pm
content: I have wondered for a long time if there is presently a good quality and safe rechargeable CR123A cell rated at more than 400 mAh. Presently, major companies only make that capacity. Yet, there is no shortage of companies claiming they have higher capacities, some over 1000 mAh. However, they are not made by any recognizable or major manufacturer. There is no shortage of companies in China and Hong Kong making these cells with high capacity claims- but almost all should be stayed away from due to serious safety issues. For example, the cells may not have been made in accord with IEC safety standards, or the cell lacks a PTC safety device, which is essential in case of failure or short circuit. Also, many of these cells generally do not have good reviews about their actual capacity and\or charge retention in storage. Are there any good quality rechargeable CR123A cells available with more than 400 mAh capacity, and if so, who makes them?
Is there a modern camera that can do what the mobius does? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: meanie2
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2019, 08:52:16 am
content: Is there a modern camera that is small and can do what the mobius does?It is possible for user to adjust the 'red,'green','blue'.Looking for something better than the mobius.
Is there a new solution to replace the differential amplifier circuit? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: daisizhou
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2025, 12:29:10 am
content: Hallo everyoneI want to know if there is a better solution now to replace the pressure sensor millivolt signal amplification, temperature compensation, linear correction, and finally meet the required pressure gradient voltage valueBackground:I have a pressure gradient linear voltage board. Due to the aging of the sensor, I can no longer buy the same model of pressure sensor.(The main fault is that the voltage value corresponding to the zero pressure value drifts.)The actual picture is as attached "pcbaa" "pcba"。For the schematic diagram, please see "pcb board"。N4 voltage value is also Hi-Gnd voltage.I measured the linear increasing voltage output value of N4 under different pressures (See the picture "pressure-voltage")The actual pressure range required is 0-11 (-14) cmH2O, which means the voltage value is 0v-1.241vAccording to the traditional method, it is necessary to use circuits such as op amp circuit + temperature compensation circuit, use discrete electronic components for design, and make circuit boards.This takes a long time to adjust and has disadvantages such as a large margin of error.I looked up the recommended solution provided by Honeywell, the pressure sensor supplier, using the MAX1452 chip.(Please see the attachment "sps-siot-008066-1-ciid-49885")(https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/72811/MAXIM/MAX1452.html)The MAX1452 chip solution is very good, but you need to buy the MAX32625PICO development kit, and the MAX1452 Evaluation System is expensive.If you do not purchase this, you will not be able to complete the programming and temperature calibration of the MAX1452I want to know if there is a better solution that is easier to implement.If you know or have encountered the same doubts as me, please tell me, thank you

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2025, 03:21:35 am
content: Something similar to the HX711 :https://wiki.seeedstudio.com/grove_adc_for_load_cell_hx711/https://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Sensors/ForceFlex/hx711_english.pdf

author: daisizhou
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2025, 02:10:13 am
content: It seems that I can't make the max32625pico myself,Although the firmware can be found.https://www.analog.com/en/resources/evaluation-hardware-and-software/evaluation-boards-kits/max32625pico.html#eb-overviewhttps://github.com/analogdevicesinc/max32625pico-firmware-imagesmax32625 seems to be a single chip microcomputer.https://os.mbed.com/platforms/MAX32625PICO/
Is there a paintable type material that is non conductive? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 05:50:00 pm
content: I'm fastening a TO92 style temperature sensor to a metal surface. Normally I'd use heat shrink to make sure none of the metal from the leads short out against the surface, but I'm not sure I can get it all the way up where I want it. Is there something that can be painted on that will do the same thing? Nail polish? It needs to handle 70 deg C.Thanks,Alan

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 06:49:29 pm
content: Liquid tape, but I don't know if its good at 70C

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 07:08:23 pm
content: Conformal coat, however almost any coating that is an electrical insulator will also be a thermal insulator.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 07:14:13 pm
content: 2 part epoxy works well, and if you use a slow cure one ( ABE makes it called Epidermix) when cured it will resist just about anything short of a blow torch.

author: TerminalJack505
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 07:58:19 pm
content: Whatever you use be sure to do a little research to be sure that it will adhere to metal. Something like nail polish might flake off once it drys and goes through a few thermal cycles.Two part epoxy, like SeanB mentioned, should work. So long as it explicitly states it is for use with metal.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 08:00:52 pm
content: Quote from: alank2 on August 29, 2013, 05:50:00 pmYou plan to attach the sensor directly to the metal surface without an insulating mica washer, but then you want to insulate the wire terminations so they don't contact the metal surface?My suggestion would be to prepare the sensor with insulated flying leads ahead of time and then attach it to the metal surface afterwards. There should be no trouble getting heat shrink coverage if you prepare the part on the bench before fixing it in place.

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 08:09:56 pm
content: Quote from: IanB on August 29, 2013, 08:00:52 pmThis is the plan. I am going to fasten it with some sort of metal band or something so that the body of it is held top and bottom at hopefully the right temperature.I can get heat shrink pretty high up on the leads, but I've got a tiny capacitor to add to. At the very top there will be exposed leads. These are what I'd like to paint something on to make sure they can't come into contact with anything. The paint is not for any adhesion to the surface, just for non conductivity...Thanks,Alan

author: G0HZU
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2013, 08:50:39 pm
content: Can you just blob it in place with Dow Corning RTV 3145 or Loctite 5145 sealant/adhesive? You could blob over the leads as well and seal it all in clear RTV.This stuff is good to 200degC. The only downside is it takes over 24 hours to cure. But if the surfaces are clean it will stick to metal very well.
Is there a project like this?  USB macro type of device? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2016, 09:58:02 pm
content: So today during some development I found myself hitting the same keys over and over and over...well you get it. Wishing for my "superkey" program from MS-DOS days to automate some repetitive keystroke combinations.Does anyone know of any projects that involve a microcontroller device that you plug a keyboard into that it in turn plugs into a PC and it can be taught keyboard macros? Is there software that makes this type of thing not worth doing? What do you guys use when you need something like this?

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2016, 10:01:03 pm
content: https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 13, 2016, 10:19:28 pm
content: https://autohotkey.com/docs/AutoHotkey.htm

author: jeroen79
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2016, 10:08:20 am
content: U-hidBu0836Any microcontroller breakout board with USB

author: EmmanuelFaure
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2016, 02:08:27 pm
content: Already did exactly that with an Arduino Pro Micro (~$5 for a clone). Google "arduino keyboard" for plenty of examples.BTW it could be a nice source of laughes, i.e. plugging your device to a victim's computer, randomly sending Ctrl + P then Enter, etc.

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2016, 02:21:31 pm
content: It's a widespread security flaw inherent in 99% computer USB ports. Google "evil maid exploit"

author: EmmanuelFaure
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 15, 2016, 02:39:31 pm
content: Quote from: helius on September 15, 2016, 02:21:31 pmI didn't know that term, thanks you, gonna spend some hours googling around it.
Is there a PWM controller IC similar to TL494, with totem pole output? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: hkBattousai
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2014, 08:04:06 pm
content: I'm looking for a PWM controller with totem pole output stage. The problem withTL494is that you have to either connect it a pull-up or a pull-down resistor. And at high frequencies, this resistor must be less that 1kOhm in order to get a clean PWM wave form with sharp edges. This is not suitable for low power designs.I would like to know if there is an alternative IC, which does exactly the same function with TL494, but doesn't have an open collector or open emitter output stage. Please tell me the alternatives you know.

author: hkBattousai
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2014, 08:52:22 pm
content: TL598appears to be the product I'm looking for.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2014, 03:11:47 am
content: Yeah, thatAlso, SG/UC3525, somewhat different pinout/functionality but the same basic deal.Or UC3808 or others for peak current mode control (basically, UC3843 with alternate outputs).Tim

author: Richard Head
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2014, 05:41:43 am
content: TimI think you meant the UCC3808. I've used it before for a push-pull 500W DC-DC. It was more pricey than the more popular devices but has a nice small footprint.Never had a problem and I manufactured 1000 pieces.

author: electronic_eel
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 24, 2014, 09:12:10 pm
content: The SG3525 just has one opamp available, that makes it harder to implement cc/cv.The UCC3808 is a completely different beast.I think one of the great features of the TL494 or TL598 is that they have two error amps and make both inputs of them accessible. Does anyone know of a low power version of such a design that works from e.g. 4 volts and doesn't require the 7 volts the TL494 wants?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2014, 01:17:35 am
content: If you need CC/CV, you're best off using an external amp anyway. 494/598 amps are wired-OR, which is the second worst way to do an SMPS control loop. It should be average current mode (or similar) inside, voltage outside. This is true of any of the chips mentioned -- though with UCC3808 the peak current mode is automatic (integral, by comparator, rather than avg. mode and error amp), so you don't need another amp.Tim

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2014, 02:52:24 pm
content: Quote from: T3sl4co1l on October 25, 2014, 01:17:35 amThe TL494 series designs I am familiar with use the second error amplifier either for over-voltage protection on the primary side in the event that isolated feedback to the primary error amplifier fails or for fault current limiting.I prefer current mode designs for their current balancing and cycle-by-cycle current limiting.
Is there a rule of thumb for hole size to wire gauge?   - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: peps1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 07:44:47 pm
content: Working on a PCB design that is going to need some 16 gauge wire for a couple of pads and was wondering if there was a chart or rule for working out the right hole size to wire gauge ratio?

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 07:54:28 pm
content: This question is too nebulous, sorry. Please be more specific.

author: peps1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 08:04:59 pm
content: the wire goes into a hole, that hole has to be larger than the cross-sectional dimension of the wire or it won't fit. So is there a standard practice like for example, add 10% of the wires crossectional area for your hole size on the through-hole pad.Is that less nebulous?

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 08:19:53 pm
content: Quote from: peps1 on September 19, 2021, 08:04:59 pmNo.Stranded? Solid? Isolated? With ferrule? Through-plated hole? Will it be soldered? I could go on...A distinctive problem formulation before posting is good.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 08:36:27 pm
content: There's different # strands available in stranded wire. Digi-Key's ruler has "7-strand wire holes" which I find wrong, nobody connects such stiff wire to a PCB, and the holes are way too small i.e. #16 AWG is 1.53mm, #14 1.93mm holes. Who has drill bits that size anyhow?My notes:#16AWG, Carol C2065 1.6-1.7mm hole works well and I am going with 1.8mm drill size.#18AWG, Belden 8522 1.5mm hole works well and I am going with 1.6mm drill size.I tried math using the advertised OD (for 19-strand wire) then adding say 20% but it doesn't work that good.Also the insulation thickness varies a lot, so you end up needing almost double the diameter in the end, for your PCB footprint of space.

author: peps1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2021, 09:25:33 pm
content: Quote from: Benta on September 19, 2021, 08:19:53 pmStranded, Through-plated hole, no ferrule, uninsulated, probably red PTFE sleeving, yes it's going to be soldered (hence mentioning a pad and a hole), 26 x 30AWG stands, 1.326mm² CSA, and please do go on, I would love to learn all the variables that are so important to what I assumed was a simple question, I'm here to learn, and come up with a distinctive problem formulation before posting next time as not to waste anyone time.Quote from: floobydust on September 19, 2021, 08:36:27 pmThank you!
Is there a solution to this? 8VAC passing through PCB jams Buck conv. ACT4088?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: nardev
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 23, 2018, 08:01:29 pm
content: For some funky reason i decided to make this on the circuit. It appeared as cleaner solution for me and i had some other plans too.Basically i have sires for switch coming to PCB and on another side of PCB there is screw terminal where i can hook up some device like door bell.When i do it as it is on the drawing, the ESP12F module, which is shielded, simply goes to some unreachable state and i need to unplug/pug whole circuit.Evidently some inductions piles up and something jams...Is there any solution for this? Any suggestion how to make it so that it doesn't damage the ESP stability?UPDATE:Actually, what fails is ACT4088 buck converter which is also on the board.It is completely separate power source, but uses same board. No touching lines, about 0.5A is max peek of 8VAC for the bell.
Is there a source I can learn modern synthesis - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: RedPortal
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 17, 2017, 06:54:49 am
content: Hi everyone!I recently found digital circuit design fascinatingIs there a book or other kind of source I can learn modern logic synthesis and silicon compiler stuff?Most of the books on that topic on amazon seem to be from the 90'sThat's pretty old by EE standards I think

author: RedPortal
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 17, 2017, 07:23:12 am
content: If I was interestedin just using software, sure.But I'm interested in the nuts and bolt partLogic minimization, Technology mapping all that good stuff.I want resouces to learn about that
Is there a "standard" circuit used by NMEA 2000 CAN bus interfaces?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2024, 09:57:55 am
content: From what I have read NMEA 2000 and the industrial DeviceNet standard use a 4 wire cable with two conductors for data and two for Gnd and power. NMEA 2000 uses 12v and DeviceNet uses 24v for power. I believe the interface is supposed to provide electrical isolation.I see the Analog Devices ADM3052 mentioned in the context of DeviceNet as it has a bus side regulator to power the 5v isolated bus side of the CAN transceiver.Is the ADM3052 the de facto standard for this sort of thing?https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/609/ADM3052-3121380.pdf
Is there a standard for Bus-Bar current rating calculation (copper) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: aju11
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2022, 12:56:50 pm
content: Google search gives -> Current =1.2 x cross sectionIs there any standard to prove this?what are the considerations like length, thermal parameters while using factor 1.2?

author: aju11
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2022, 01:01:03 pm
content: Also, current capacity of wire is calculated by thumb rule: Current = 4 x cross section Or sometimes 6 x cross section.Why factor of 4 or 6 for wire? and Why factor of 1.2 for Bus bar.

author: strawberry
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2022, 01:06:00 pm
content: acceptable power loss. ohms law1mm^2 1m = 10W loss , 1mm^2 10m = 100W loss

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2022, 01:07:12 pm
content: It's not as simple as multiplying with a magic number. You want to use a table like this:https://www.australwright.com.au/technical-data/advice/copper-busbar-rating/For example a wide thin bus bar is going to have more cooling than a square crosssection and so be able to handle more current.This is also the reason that wires can handle more current per crosssection area. The circumference of a wire does not change linearly with the crosssectional area. So this esentialy means a thin wire has more cooling capability per given crosssection and so can carry more current density

author: strawberry
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2022, 06:51:01 pm
content: Quote from: Berni on February 18, 2022, 01:07:12 pmif vertical but horizontal could be worse than squarecooling affected by surface area and airflowshouldn't be much difference in cooling effect between wire size if conductor temperature is less than ~50C or minimal difference between conductor and ambient temperature
Is there a v simple way to detect small mV & light an LED (1 transistor?) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: 741
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2019, 11:58:12 am
content: I've made a board which supplies multiple Zinc Oxide gas sensors with 5V (they need a 48 hour burn-in according to the mfg).It would be nice to shine an LED when a sensor is plugged in, but I have 5.0V rail already (the recommended value), and I do not want to drop more than say 10mV for sensing.(Note: For now at least, I'm accepting the mfg strict guidelines of 5V (+/- 0.1V), even though I suspect it is not so critical, especially for this conditioning phase).I'd like to avoid using say 1 op-amp per sensor, and I hope it is possible with maybe 1 transistor per sensor...

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2019, 12:04:44 pm
content: Transistors have a typical temperature drift of some 2 mV/K for the base emitter voltage. So they are not really suitable to detect a drop if some 10 mV reliably in a simple circuit (it works with multiple transistors).I would suggest using OPs / comparators (e.g. LM358 / LM393 or similar). These are relatively cheap and 2 in a 8 pin case. They can sense some 10 mV near ground level.

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 03, 2019, 12:53:51 pm
content: I've used a pair of TL431 as a current sense. One is set to 2.5V as a reference and the common return is thru a shunt. The other has its reference pin tied to the first one thru a small voltage divider on the other side of the shunt. This one drives a LED. This will easily detect just a couple mv.
Is there a visual list of all female Micro USB connectors? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: leham
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2017, 12:19:17 am
content: I've had a quick look but don't know what I should search for..Is there a list of all the types of SMD female micro USB connectors somewhere? With illustrations for each type of connector?

author: splin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2017, 02:27:21 am
content: I'd be surprised if you could find a comprehensive document, but this might help:[https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170907182311&SearchText=Micro+usb+socket+81/url]

author: not1xor1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2017, 04:44:34 am
content: here:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USBthere is a table of the various connectors and many other useful informations

author: bjcuizon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2017, 06:11:02 am
content: Quote from: splin on September 08, 2017, 02:27:21 amFTFY ^^^

author: ebclr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2017, 08:15:21 am
content: Chek thishttp://br.mouser.com/Connectors/USB-Connectors/_/N-88hmf?No=175

author: negativ3
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 16, 2017, 09:39:32 am
content: try...https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/usb-type-c-faq
Is there alternative to CAN Open magic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 06, 2024, 10:06:10 am
content: I used a trial of CAN Open magic for a week, meh, it's OK but I was not overwhelmed by it. If I look to Kvaser for their CAN Open offering it is canopen magic, if I look at Peak, they also just resell canopen magic.Does anyone else do software of a similar calibre?

author: Jon_S
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2024, 05:45:31 pm
content: I'm not familiar with CANOpen Magic, but we use Vector CANalyzer for simulation and debugging and at a quick glance it seems to have the same features available (you would need to buy the CANOpen option as well, it doesn't come as standard).I'm very happy with it, it just works. Might be worth getting in touch and getting a demo to see if you like it.

author: mupf.dev
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 08, 2024, 09:32:13 pm
content: My employer has developed an internal command line tool for this purpose. I found it useful and started to develop an open source equivalent:CANopenTermBest regards,MichaelPS: After a two-year break, I started to continue development actively. Feature requests, feedback and suggestions are very welcome.
Is there an alternate part available for LTC4011? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: aju11
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2020, 02:26:58 pm
content: I am trying to design a Ni-mh battery charger with following specifications:Cells in series = 10Charger current = 1 to 2 AInput voltage = 22 to 26VLTC4011 is a good chip but is quite expensive.Can anyone suggest a stand alone charger chip similar to LTC4011?
Is there an easy DSP route to measure power? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: 741
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2019, 05:29:44 pm
content: I'm asking on behalf of someone else: we've inherited some hardware with ARM etc (coding is his bit). There are some LPF filters and my guess is that the ARM computes RMS power from V & I samples.I've been told that (for example) it's pretty straightforward to make an equaliser with ARM because ST dev kits supply free software; "all you do" is specify the response and it spits out some coefficients (I gather). Quite what extra bits the developer supplies like ISRs and ADC setup I do not know.But, given that, I like to imagine that finding RMS power given LPF V & I signals should be fairly painless.I would be interested if anyone out there has done this, and in any "not too generic" links. At this point (regrettably) we are not going to be able to learn about DSP in any serious depth, so I'm after more practically orientated information for now.

author: Marco
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2019, 06:09:04 pm
content: I'm going to make a wild guess that whoever was talking about audio DSP was talking about ST Audioweaver, a limited closed source framework for ST Arm devices. But it's far from a generic visual DSP programming platform, so it wouldn't help you.What's wrong with your existing code?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2019, 07:08:00 pm
content: Well, RMS you take the samples, square them (mind the increased number of bits -- probably truncate the fractional end), add them up over whatever period you're averaging over, then divide by the number of samples and sqrt it. (Presumably the number of samples will be a power of 2, so shifting can be used instead of division. The sqrt will have to be written out somehow or another, but the compiler or library will have a solution for that.)For power, instead of multiplying one signal by itself, multiply V times I, i.e. instantaneous power. Average that, and don't take sqrt. That's the time domain definition of average power.Mind offsets -- any DC offset will contribute to the output, just as it's supposed to. If your signals are biased or unsigned, keep this in mind and adjust the math accordingly.You can also find the apparent power |S|, which is rms(V) * rms(I). This is greater than the real power.You can, finally, find reactive power Q by doing the vector subtraction, since |S| = |P + jQ| = sqrt(P^2 + Q^2). Of course, as you're taking the difference of two noisy signals, don't expect great accuracy this way.Tim

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2019, 07:41:10 pm
content: Depends on what you want to measure.If it's 50/60 Hz power consumption it's dead simple, I've done it with a 68HC11 8-bit MCU.Two ADCs synchronously sampling, one for voltage and one for current sampling at 10 ksps (or what you find fitting). Just multiply the samples, depending on polarity of the multiplication it's either RMS power or reactive power.If you want to measure higher frequencies it gets hairy.
Is there any ISP chip for camera based on Mali C52 ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: muthukural001
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2019, 05:12:00 am
content: Hi,As a requirement needs ARM Mali-C52 based ISP chip for the camera, I am looking for the one which has it...I couldn't find anything...If anyone has come across the chips based on Mali-C52, please suggest...Thanks,Muthu
Is there any open source PCB design to test manufacture capabilities? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: crgarcia
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2022, 09:43:34 pm
content: Hello!Do you know any open source PCB design that can be used to test manufacture capabilities?For example, I was thinking on something like this:Thanks!

author: Infraviolet
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2022, 10:26:27 pm
content: You're effectively after a "benchy" for PCB fabrication? Interesting idea.Although usually board houses should be pretty open about what they can do as standard, what they can do as special and charge mroe for, and what they can't hope to try at all. So things like the various silkscreen sizes will usually just result in the board house removing those which are smaller than their thinnest silkscreen line and printing the bigger ones with perfect quality, won;t tell you much that won;t already be said on the board house's website or via an email chat.If you're doing this to compare between options for board houses to use for yourself you might just be best to combine some of your existing designs on to a single board with as many of the stranger and fiddlier elements that YOU tend to use in one place, then send that out to multiple manufacturers and see which coems back best.Trying a complex graphical logo in the top copper layer (with gaps in the solder mask above it, so the finished thing gets you a shiny visible logo of plated metal) can be an interesting challenge to see how that comes back.
Is there any specs other than the operating temperature for automotive LCD dplay - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: muthukural001
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2019, 10:01:23 am
content: Hi All,I am looking for an automotive-grade LCD display. I see the many displays claims that they are automotive-grade with the operating temperature -30 to +85 C. At the same time, displays that have the same operating temperature -30 to +85C tells that they are not an automotive-grade. From this, I can understand that the operating temperature is not the only parameter to decide whether it is automotive or industrial grade. So, what other parameters that I have to look for the automotive LCD TFT display?Thanks,Muthu
Is there any standard pinout for JTAG and SWD over SOICBite? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2021, 06:57:04 am
content: As the title says, I am talking about a standard pinout for JTAG and SWD over 8-pin SOICBite. Is there a standard pinout for this? Or do I have to invent my own?
Is there any use for an old Auromatic Lapping Controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: bborisov567
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2022, 10:11:52 am
content: I got this old lapping controller at the junk yard. It is an impressive device, built by the book. I am not very familliar with the coltrol of a lapping process. There is almost no information on the web. I found this documenthttp://www.sanseishowa.com/products/PDF/ALC3000.pdf. It mentions something about monitoring frequency. My question is can i use this unit for something else useful like a frequency counter or just salvage the ICs and the case?

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2022, 10:48:19 am
content: That looks to be like a classic boat anchor. Do you need one?
Is there anything that can do this? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2018, 07:42:34 am
content: Purpose: a digitally-controller multi-phase buck converter module rated for up to 50A output.Requirement: switching high current at a high frequency.Input voltage: 24V maximumSwitch current: 20A maximumSwitch frequency: 600kHz, 720kHz or 1.2MHz (from STM32F334 HRTIM peripheral)This module is intended to be part of a blade server system, so physical size is a major limiting factor. That is why I am using that high frequencies, so the inductors can be smaller. The controller chip STM32F334 limited me to 3-phase synchronous rectifying buck design.

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2018, 07:54:11 am
content: Quote from: blueskull on April 10, 2018, 07:46:25 amIt is 24V->0-20V adjustable over I2C or CAN with default to 3.3V.What I need here is that specific switching element that can operate at that speed and current level.

author: technix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2018, 06:12:33 pm
content: Quote from: blueskull on April 10, 2018, 08:16:10 amThose DrMOS looked interesting, and I am going to look into them.When I went to Electronica Shanghai this year people pointed me at GaN parts though, if I want to run the switching elements at 1.2MHz, but finding or buying them... DrMOS like those seem to be able to run at 750kHz. Now how big of an inductor do I need? How do I estimate the inductor (since, again, size is at premium for my purpose.)The power module in question actually is one of my basic functionality modules which will be deployed in multiple future projects.
Is there something like bidirectional sensing wobble limit switches  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Back2Volts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 02, 2019, 07:04:00 pm
content: I wonder if something like this limit switchhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-ME-9101-Wobble-Stick-Head-2NO-2NC-SPDT-Momentary-Enclosed-Limit-Switch/281370811442but with a direction sensing (ON)-OFF-(ON) ?May be explaining what I am trying to accomplish may help. I want to motorize the chute deflector of the snowblower***. I would like something like a momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON) toggle switch but with a significant long handle, so it can be touched wearing very heavy gloves or mittons. One of those spring limit switches would be great if they existed in the required contact configuration.I have thought of using a regular momentary toggle switch with some kind of flex extension added, but, doing so with a weather boot, I think it would not hold on. I need as close as an IP65 solution as possible at a reasonable cost.Any ideas will be welcomed.*** We got 12" snow in two rounds and the darn deflector wire was frozen solid inside the tubing... not fun when well below freezing...

author: Berni
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 02, 2019, 08:24:34 pm
content: You can always design your own massive switch and put multiple microswitches inside itBut i think for this case a rocker style switch is better. large ones can be used with gloves. perhaps in a location where you can place your thumb over it when holding the handles. These switches can also be easily made IP67 by putting a soft rubber cover on it.

author: Back2Volts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 02, 2019, 09:23:19 pm
content: The large rocker may work. Something like thishttps://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Pin-Laser-Momentary-Rocker-Switch-Winch-In-Winch-Out-20A-12V-LED-Light-Red/183008665622

author: Back2Volts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 02, 2019, 11:30:36 pm
content: Well, duh! I am trying to reinvent the joystick leverhttps://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Monolever-Joystick-PA22-Position/dp/B07332BFK8/ref=pd_sbs_60_5In fact I could use a four position for move up, move down, full up and full down
Is there a minimum load for bi-directional MOSFET SSR / Relays? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: 741
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2022, 04:40:19 pm
content: OMRON (https://www.omron.com.au/service_support/FAQ/FAQ02109/index.asp) sayQuoteI am guessing that for very small currents, the intrinsic diode, which is essential for bidirectional operation will be on the shallow part of its slope resistance, and this is the reason for the 100uA limitation.
Is this 101C Fuse? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: nardev
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 09, 2024, 09:46:19 am
content: Trying to detect the fuse and fins something similar for MAX3485 chip. I can't find anything online or i'm looking at the wrong stuff. How is 101C rated?Thnx

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2024, 10:06:29 am
content: what is the footprint. might help narrow it down in searches

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2024, 10:09:44 am
content: When you say "for MAX3485", does that mean you know it/they are supplying power to it? Or are in the output connection?101 might be 10 x 10^1 = 100mA, and C might be a voltage rating or other grade. RS-485 maximum is around 100-200mA so that would be a reasonable rating for it.Tim

author: nardev
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 09, 2024, 10:24:28 am
content: Wou, interesting, just buy trying to fint some more pictures online, as it's quite popular module i found a page with description. Looks like it's "Heat recover fuse". I still have no idea what would 101C stand for.https://esphome.io/components/modbus_controller.htmlhttps://protosupplies.com/product/scm-ttl-to-rs-485-interface-module/

author: MarkT
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2024, 10:54:53 am
content: 101 is component code for 100, so probably 100mA each. By appearance these are polyfuses. The marking will be manufacturer-specific, which makes finding the precise part hard work.

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 09, 2024, 02:05:08 pm
content: Wow, hard to tell that board is chinese made, hehehe...Reveive?? That is the indicator LED to show that after you killed it, it revived!!Good thing it doesn't contain 'Rerays'!
Is this a 74LS10 equivalent? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2022, 09:26:47 pm
content: I'm not sure about this chip marked EL7410... is it just a 74LS10 type?Pins 1-7 are not connected here... if it was a 74LS10 then some of those would be inputs... did the 'designer' assume they would float HI?Thanks in advance

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2022, 10:06:05 pm
content: For the old 74LSxx and the even older original 74xx sereis an open input could be assumed to be hi - especially when doing an ugly bodge.Chances are the EL7410 is more like the older non LS version, so with higher power consumption.

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2022, 10:06:21 pm
content: Quote from: NivagSwerdna on February 01, 2022, 09:26:47 pmNo, probably standard TTL 7410.QuoteYou mean pins 1-5, and in TTL they do in fact float high. (And input pins 3-4-5 are don't cares since output pin 6 is not connected.)

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2022, 12:02:22 am
content: Quote from: edavid on February 01, 2022, 10:06:21 pmPerfect. That makes sense and I guess saved a pull up resistor.

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2022, 04:45:22 am
content: Quote from: NivagSwerdna on February 02, 2022, 12:02:22 amThey could have connected pins 1 and 2 to pin 13, but it looks like they were in a hurry
Is this a "death cap" and should it be removed? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mkiijam
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2024, 06:19:05 pm
content: Hi Guys,The .05 cap on the AC switch? Should it be replaced with anything, left alone, or removed, or?

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2024, 06:28:16 pm
content: The 0.05 size cap looks a bit odd. It is probably there for some RF suppression / switching spark reduction. With newer regulation is should be smaller (e.g. 1/10 the value) and a class Y type, so a type for high reliabilty that should not fail short. Leaving the capacitor out should also be OK.The +300 V type supply also looks odd, like missing the diode somehow.So the plan may not be that accurate and may also have the capacitor in question wrong. E.g. it could be across the transformer instead (would than want a class X capacitor).

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2024, 08:44:40 pm
content: Yes that is the Fender "death cap" wiring. This video mentions it and the two resistors on the heater supply being 0.5W to prevent damage to the transformer if the heaters start pulling high current.Note there are videos on youtube with some inaccurate info/assumptions and incorrectly drawn diagrams. I suggest checking out Fenders modern schematics and seeing how they address noise. You can also check out videos from the same channel where he discusses the design of his own amp (with layout) and troubleshooting noise problems in various repair videos.I'd suggest when setting up gear using an outlet tester to ensure polarity is correct with earth/ground present.
Is this a fusible resistor? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: uwezi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 11:16:22 pm
content: Yesterday I did forensic research ontwo freshly broken LED bulbs. These bulbs use the cheapest capacitor coupled full-wave rectifier design, but I was amazed to find what looks like a 1 ohm resistor on one of the 2 mains connections to the rectifier bridge:Color code is BROWN-BLACK-GOLD-GOLD-BLACK on a green ceramics background. I found references to fusible resistors where either the body color or the color of the last ring (WHITE) indicates the current rating, but neither BLACK (last ring) nor GREEN (body color) make sense.There is one more peculiarity on the DC side of the rectifier: in series with the total of 51 individual LED chips there is a single 470 ohm resistor - that's not really of any use!The LED bulbs are marketed in Sweden under a brand name and advertised as running for 25000 hours - these two lasted about 1/5 of that time...

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 11:45:15 pm
content: There are fusible resistors and flameproof. The latter are designed to not catch fire when they go open, but the fusing current isn't well specified.