Reflow station (first time) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 05:51:45 pm
content: i am trying to find out of how to convert a toaster oven to be a solder reflow station for SMD parts... is there a way to do this and is there an easy way to make this work and what parts do i need? i have an Arduino chip and stuff but not a SSR...

author: kc9qvl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 05:58:25 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/diy-reflow-oven/You would also need a thermocouple amplifierbtw the search button does work fine

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 06:10:33 pm
content: I also made one.I posted the Project over at CNCzone.com. You can find it here.http://www.cnczone.com/forums/general_electronics_discussion/175422-diy_reflow_oven.htmlIt turned out pretty good.The PID i used was really tight fitting in there, but it turned out great. I'll see if I can post a pic later. (when I find my camera. I think my cat hid it from me because she got tired of me taking pictures of her.)

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 06:14:11 pm
content: also i could use one of those temp sensers that is very precise that came from a laser printer that was on a fuser assembly.... will that work fine maybe?

author: kc9qvl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2014, 06:32:33 pm
content: Quote from: Nickk2057 on January 12, 2014, 06:14:11 pmUnknown What type of sensor is it? Thermistors generally top out at 250 C. Some go to 300C

author: strangelovemd12
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2014, 04:40:55 pm
content: Given the response time of the heating elements and thermal inconsistencies of the oven/PCB/load can't the accuracy (and to a lesser extent the precision) of the temperature reading be fairly poor?Other than for the nice curves that you could log into the Arduino. Sexy sexy data.And you'll need something to control the elements; you're looking at a relay of some sort. If you get a toaster oven with a digital control it will presumably have everything you need to hack your Arduino into and run as a basic reflow oven, relay included.

author: miceuz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2014, 05:02:50 pm
content: I've just started using an oven for SMD work. While have built several PID controlled ovens (ceramics kilns and whatnot) I've decided not to bother this time. After some confusion and grief (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/flux-residue-after-smd-reflow/) I was able to find a suitable configuration of table height, power and time to get good reflow results.My oven is 1.5kW with two square shaped heaters on the top and the bottom. The heaters are not just infrared rods in the center, but metal rods that go around a perimeter of the oven. The oven has a fan inside, so it's almost "convection" oven.I've ended up positioning the board in the most bottom shelf and using only top heater at full power for ~8 minutes. Didn't alter oven anyhow, it even goes DING after reflow

author: warhawk-avg
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 23, 2014, 01:59:00 am
content: DIY reflow oven using an ArduinoProfessional heat profileIn fact there are hundreds of youtube video's for these things

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2014, 11:12:58 pm
content: My version of the reflow oven.Black & Decker 1500W, 4 element convection toaster oven. Bought a 'welding blanket' and insulated the cabinet, packed as much as I could in there without interfering with anything mechanical. Took out all the mechanical stuffs.PIC18F2550, using the USB module as a serial port for datalogging, and have a PCB with a shift register and some MOSFETs mounted in the oven cabinet.External LCD and buttons (I was going to put a much smaller color graphic LCD right on the oven itself, but I smoked it right before I was going to mount. Damn you 5V logic!!! and 3V LCDs!!!), and bonus points for the 3D printed 'enclosure' for the LCD/buttons. Gotta take care not to set the enclosure on the oven while it's running. Might melt it!Interconnected by a LAN cable ('cause it was handy), 2 fans, one for electronics, second one for the SSR heatsink, and an indicator LED and piezo buzzer.Crowdon D2425 SSR driving the heating elements, heatsink/fan/thermistor mounted on the SSR, MAX31855 K-type thermocouple amp from Adafruit.I'll do a more complete 'write-up' eventually.Only running basic firmware now, eg. simple on/off control, no PID logic in the firmware for temp control. It overshoots and undershoots temps quite a bit, which for now is mitigated by setting the set points either higher or lower as required. I'm working on that.

author: Fank1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2014, 12:01:11 am
content: Not that it would work for everyone but I run mine from an old computer with a parallel port and a VB program in excel.

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 02:19:37 pm
content: well... i was thinking of using a MOSFET to control the heating elements... maybe one from, idk, a microwave? *new type maybe*

author: Clear as mud
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 06:26:06 pm
content: What you want is a Triac, not a MOSFET, to control the AC heating elements. I've thought about doing that too, but as a first step, I think it is easier and cheaper to buy a good solid-state relay off eBay. The solid-state relay is built with triacs internally.

author: marshallh
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 06:53:39 pm
content: Quote from: Skimask on March 24, 2014, 11:12:58 pmThat's the exact oven mine is based off. It works great.