Looking for best continuity multimeter under 500 usd, handled or bench - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / testgear

author: lordstein
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 10:29:46 am
content: Hi, I've had a UNIT UT58C for about 10 years. It's manual range. After several drops on the floor, some parts of the display no longer work (this part only indicates where to connect the test leads). A black spot also appeared in the corner of the display. then I think that at any moment it will fail, this was one of the first I had, I like:large screenbuzzer that sounds clear and loud -continuity mode it is veryyyy fast, also measuring in the 20v range.This multimeter is 2000 counts, as I work professionally repairing computers (20v or less is not much of a problem with high precision and CAT certifications), I am looking for a multimeter that has the previous or better features and / or more functions, I have a budget of up to 500usd, I have searched and it seems that the brymen 869s meets all the requirements, some B & K PRECISION AND HIOKI (small screens) Also apparently they are good in speed continuity and sound (buzzer in continuity).I have looked and most of the handled multimeters are 15 years old ~ I have seen the bench multimeters but apparently they are not that good in continuity, what other multimeters can you recommend.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 12:47:34 pm
content: I like the VC8145 bench DMM (around $200 or so). It has fast continuity and a big display (with backlight). UNI-T UT8805E could also be an option (around $450) if you don't want to measure capacitors. The UT8805E's capacitance measurement is painfully slow.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 01:00:43 pm
content: Brymen BM857s, from Brymen's "industrial" range.

author: BILLPOD
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 01:32:39 pm
content: Good Morning Lordstein, I second the nomination of the Brymen BM869S. I also love my Fluke 189, but sadly they aren't made anymore. I also love my EEVblog 121GW because it had many unique features.These are just some of the great meters. Digital Multi Meters genuinely fit the term: 'You get what you pay for.'

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2025, 02:17:15 pm
content: If it's just about continuity: UT123.Otherwise, this DMM is quite limited, but also really inexpensive.https://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMUNI-T%20UT123%20UK.html

author: Hydron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 01:42:30 pm
content: This is the "Best Continuity Tester Ever", thanks to KungFuJosh:https://youtu.be/tB15Mw0_rxI?feature=shared(original post here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-keithley-dmm6500/msg5895516/#msg5895516)

author: KungFuJosh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 03:33:14 pm
content: It is the best! Now if he can find one of them for $500, that would be amazing!

author: lordstein
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 01:52:31 am
content: Keithley looks interesting, but is out my money

author: KungFuJosh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 02:05:19 am
content: If you just want fast continuity, and don't care about the other functions, the Uni-T UT123 is pretty good. I think the Aneng AN8008 a better meter, and about the same on continuity. However, the LED on the UT123 is a nice visual confirmation. I'm going to record a more in-depth continuity comparison video when I have time.

author: J-R
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 03:09:16 am
content: Your $500 budget is quite large. Might as well get a couple DMMs. One handheld and one bench?For handheld, Brymen is a good choice. The BM869s is very popular, as is the BM78x series. There are a lot of positives and negatives of both, so check out some reviews.For bench DMMs, I think I will recommend the Fluke 45 (use M speed with continuity). It should be straightforward to find one on the used market.Is the output voltage important to you? For example, I tested the BM869s and it's ~3V, BM789 was ~2.4V, Fluke 45 ~3V.The Keithley 2000 or 2015THD might also be of interest, although the output voltage of the 2015THD I have is over 6V, so that seems less than ideal. But the continuity setpoint is adjustable, so that can be a cool feature in some cases.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 03:25:40 am
content: the 34401A is my favorite meter and I love continuity on it and there is one on my soldering bench just for measuring simple ohms and continuity.Some fluke meters have a higher voltage diode test which can be nice for a trouble shooting bench too, because it will detect some diodes that have a higher voltage drop in circuit, instead of making you wonder if there is a open.I do not recommend the newer keysights because the boot up time is too long, and its just annoying when you randomly have to go to your solder bench to have to power it up. I find it extremely distracting to keep running.The new ones are the 'are you kidding me?" meters

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 07:07:56 am
content: Quote from: KungFuJosh on July 25, 2025, 02:05:19 amI measured that once.The UT123 (VC-22) is significantly faster than the An8008 (13Hz vs 4Hz).I always use the UT123 for continuity testing, but not for anything else.

author: Hydron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 07:49:09 am
content: Quote from: lordstein on July 25, 2025, 01:52:31 amHonestly it's not what I'd recommend for the best continuity out of the box, I just couldn't resist linking that vid!I also have a 34401A that gets quite a bit of use, including for continuity, due to being handy and quick to turn on (as per the poster above). I haven't checked other bench meters though - if all you care about is continuity then there's probably something better/cheaper for that in bench form factor.My trusty 87V also does well for continuity as a handheld but again it's a bit pricey and there's likely something better/cheaper.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 08:25:04 am
content: IMO its awful for benchtop use because you need to twist it instead of poke itand the VFD is way better of a display (not that you need it for continuity)The best would be to have a little continuity box with a patch panel of different connectors so you have a bunch of leads, probe types, clips, tracing brushes, etc all ready to go after pushing one switch.And it would have a volume control and possibly sd drive to upload your favorite beep, with a nice speaker. And headphone jack if you don't want to make noise.and a knob to adjust the time before it beeps (response time adjustment).Honestly... it should be its own equipment lolyou could even put multiple leads on it for testing switches with a common. like a whole bunch of grabbers. so you can connect your thing and switch through it. And have different tones for different continuity channels.

author: geralds
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 08:41:41 am
content: Has anyone tried / built "Mr Bleep", the continuity tester project by LER?:andAnd/or Leo's continuity tester?:They are on my projects' list, haven't had the time yet to build either.

author: lordstein
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 09:03:20 am
content: I repair a lot of consumer electronics and telecommunications, but I mainly repair laptops. Many times I have to measure, so to speak, 20 or 30 points on the boards to identify if there is a short in the main or secondary power lines. So it is very important to do it quickly and reliably, so that when you touch the component to be tested it sounds and measures immediately and without latching.The Brymen BM689S apparently has the ability to remember what function it was in when changing the selector knob, something that I really like, since most of the measurements I do daily are continuity-diode-DC voltage. Yes, I think that the voltage used by the multimeter could matter, most notebook computer processors work between 0.8v to 1.4 more or less and the UT58C that I have always used uses a low voltage, I am not sure but like 2.5v, it can't even turn on some LEDs, I don't know if this could really affect it because I understand that multimeters use a very low current for measurements.

author: lordstein
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 09:26:38 am
content: Thanks a lot, these DIY projects look very interesting, maybe I can find another use for them, I forgot to mention that when taking measurements I also have to look at the voltage drop or ohms that each power line shows against ground, for example the PCH is about 30, the 3V and 5V power lines are close to 300-400, so power lines that are prepared to handle a lot of amperage can mark almost short and make the buzzer sound, something close to 4 or 2 ohms, almost always the power lines of the CPU and the GPU, so I need the screen and it would be better if the screen was bigger.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 10:02:39 am
content: Quote from: geralds on July 25, 2025, 08:41:41 amI made a PCB for Leo’s tester a few years ago, and it works as promised. (Including surviving being plugged into 230V mains.) The responsiveness is affected by the value of one capacitor (high value = slower but no scratchiness, low value = fast but scratchy). If you want a PCB, I could drop one in the mail to you. I don’t remember if I have spare components, so you might have to get those yourself. (It’s mostly jellybean parts anyway.)Ever since I built it, I’ve had on my to-do list to make a version using a retriggerable monostable multivibrator to give it a non-scratchy beeper. I also should review whether it uses hysteresis on the comparator. Selectable continuity thresholds might be nice, too.(Interestingly enough, the circuit in a way has two distinct continuity levels: one is the one that powers the circuit when even the tiniest bit of current flows. The other is the “precision” comparator that triggers the beeper.)

author: Wallace Gasiewicz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 01:21:48 pm
content: I know this is old stuff but I use a Fourdee AN FSM 37 analog multimeter for your purposes It has a low voltage function that will not measure PN junction and higher voltage that will indicate PN junction. Will also measure low ohms quite well. I use it for continuity when I want immediate readout testing different circuit boards. it is essentially a FET VOM . Maybe there are others like this one that may fit your needs.

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 02:03:22 pm
content: I really don't understand the obssesion about the continuty features of DMM. I rarely ever use it.

author: Grandchuck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 02:11:15 pm
content: Many use it for power-off diagnostics. One example, trouble shooting a PC board when no schematic is available. Circuit tracing, and so on.

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 02:34:23 pm
content: I still don't understand what the OP is looking for.A quite expensive DMM (USD 500) or simply a good continuity tester (DMM available for USD 15).

author: shabaz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 03:06:45 pm
content: I built this one a few months back, and it saves loads of time when doing reverse-engineering, just running a probe (or a brush) on pins to "buzz out" the connections. I made a custom probe for it too, with magnetically-attachable brushes/pads of different sizes. I was able to quite rapidly reverse-engineer a vintage computer with it (well, 80% of it, the remainder 20% was not of interest). And I love there's no auto-power-off that is easy to forget to disable on a handheld multimeter!It uses two 555's and a quad op-amp and quite low (500 mV) stimulus current-limited to a few hundred microamps max. It's not my circuit design (apart from a few minor things), I created the PCB.Schematic and Gerber files are at theeasy continuity tester GitHub repo.Parts are SOIC / 0805 sized, so it's easy to assemble.With the part values as shown in the schematic, the trigger resistance can be tuned from about 3 ohm to 18 ohm. I set mine to 3 ohm (trimmer resistor turned fully clockwise). There is a few hundred milliohm of hysteresis and there is a monostable.

author: Doctorandus_P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 03:49:36 pm
content: Quote from: BeBuLamar on July 25, 2025, 02:03:22 pmI also don't understand the obsession with horses, but luckily I don't have a horse, so I don't have to worry about that.I haven't built the circuit below (yet), but as far as I know it's a pretty classical and widely used beeper. Note that it does not even have an on switch. Leakage is pretty small. But I do wonder a bit about the lack of a base-emitter resistor to keep T2 closed in the off state.

author: KungFuJosh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 04:13:26 pm
content: Quote from: Aldo22 on July 25, 2025, 07:07:56 amNo offense, but that method of measuring is mostly useless. I made a continuity tester that gives a real life comparison between meters tocompare as a human. There was very little difference in reality, and IIRC, the Uni-T might have missed some responses compared to the Aneng (or was it the other way around?). I'll post the video of that when I have some time.Thanks,Josh

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 04:57:39 pm
content: Quote from: BeBuLamar on July 25, 2025, 02:03:22 pmIt’s not an “obsession”, it’s just a tool that is very important to many people. It’s an essential tool for troubleshooting. A quick go/no-go test that you don’t need to look at the display for.For example, yesterday I had two malfunctioning peristaltic pumps on my bench. On one of them, two rocker switches had gone bad, and the continuity tester was a quick way to determine that, because the switches didn’t make it beep when it should have. On the other one, I used the same feature to rule out that switch problems were causing its malfunction.Another common use is for figuring the pinouts of connectors and cables.

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 05:14:50 pm
content: Quote from: KungFuJosh on July 25, 2025, 04:13:26 pmI don't think so.It's also about the tone stopping after the continuity no longer exists.A continuity tester that stops beeping too late is at least as annoying as one that doesn't respond immediately.I measured this and the UT123 is way ahead.You may have other criteria, but for me this measurement makes sense and it also corresponds to my real-life experience.Make sure you use good test leads.

author: KungFuJosh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 05:18:29 pm
content: Quote from: Aldo22 on July 25, 2025, 05:14:50 pmI agree with your statement about beeping, but I'll (eventually) post a video, and we can discuss our opinions after.Quote from: BeBuLamar on July 25, 2025, 02:03:22 pmI know, right? Like, for example, women use feminine products when they need them. But I never need them, so I don't understand the obsession!

author: shabaz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 05:32:34 pm
content: Reverse-engineering can be an excellent use-case for continuity testers, and it's very hard to miss the continuity if you can very quickly wipe reliably across dozens of pins within seconds.Some potential ideas regarding probes are in the 60-second video. I didn't know what would work, so I made it interchangeable/repairable to try different things.Maybe these are a bit niche, but certainly helped speed things up when reverse-engineering a PCB. These are in some ways disposable/repairable since whatever material you're using may eventually be too oxidised or worn out.Note: although I didn't experience it during my reverse-engineering exercises, it's good to be aware that fine strands could leave debris on the board if it snags and breaks, so you'd need to closely examine the board for fine strands before re-powering it up!

author: KungFuJosh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 05:35:52 pm
content: Quote from: shabaz on July 25, 2025, 05:32:34 pm100%! When I was reverse-engineering the 7700 card, I needed fast continuity, but also the ability to adjust the level. For example, if I was looking for a connection that when through 500Ω or 1kΩ, I could get my beep at that value also. My KS34465A was useless for that since it can't be adjusted.

author: ballsystemlord
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 06:30:56 pm
content: I think that you're all missing the ever important test voltage. If you're working with CPU or GPU transistors, then you probably don't want to turn them on which means you need a test voltage of about 1v or less.Here are my findings on all of my meters. The voltage readings were taken with my calibrated meters, so they are accurate. That includes the DM93.Code:Name Open Beep Volume Response rateGDM-9061 8.05v Quiet to very loud 60s-400s (Medium to Very Fast)Flir DM93 -1.24v Medium MediumFlir IM75 4.18v Medium Very FastBK Precision 391A 3.36v Quiet FastTASI ATA801C 2.09v Medium FastANENG A830L 2.98v Loud Slow^ DT830D 2.96v Loud Slow^ This particular meter did not have a brand name. This chipset is branded and rebranded, typically as the "Something 830 Something else." It's 2000 count and always made dangerously cheap, E.G. some models, such as the ANENG, lack the fuses they claim to have.

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 08:36:07 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on July 25, 2025, 04:57:39 pmFor such a case I use the resistance measurement. If the switch has coninuity but it shows like 10 ohms it's bad.

author: geralds
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 08:38:17 pm
content: Quote from: shabaz on July 25, 2025, 03:06:45 pmAnother one for my Projects To Do List

author: KungFuJosh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2025, 09:34:35 pm
content: Quote from: BeBuLamar on July 25, 2025, 08:36:07 pmAnother good reason to have a meter with adjustable range, and Ω displayed on screen during continuity testing. Unless your meter has limit detection that allows for signaling/alarms during resistance measurement, continuity mode is a lot easier to work with if you can't stare at the meter the whole time.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 08:07:31 am
content: Quote from: BeBuLamar on July 25, 2025, 08:36:07 pmSure. But then you have to look at the display and hold the probes steady enough for the value to settle. That’s often not practical, for example with momentary switches, where you have to hold both probes with one hand so you can actuate the switch with the other hand. Sure, you can use alligator clips or the like, but for a quick test that’s inconvenient.

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 08:52:46 am
content: Quote from: KungFuJosh on July 25, 2025, 09:34:35 pmThe $15 UT123 does not have adjustable ranges, but it can still provide a little more information and also displays the resistance value.It actually indicates four ranges (approximate range limits):0-30Ω: Green LED and continuous beeping.30-50Ω: Red LED and short, single beep.50-420Ω: Red LED, no beep>420Ω : No LED, no beep, OL.The LED is quite bright, so you can see it out of the corner of your eye without having to read the values.In addition, the continuity function is the middle switch position without any further “selecting.” It is therefore immediately ready for use.

author: BeBuLamar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 11:48:11 am
content: I do use the continuity test function for things like checking which pin is which pin on a cable with 2 connector. Checking the wiring hardness as to which wire goes where. I don't use it to check for short or intermittent problem. I wouldn't miss it if my meter doesn't have it. When I spend $500 for a meter I don't really care how well the continuity function works.

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 04:00:21 pm
content: Quote from: shabaz on July 25, 2025, 05:32:34 pmBest continuity tester ever is on an $8 meter. It just doesn't miss:Continuityandvery bright LED. I wasn't even using gold probes there...

author: Grandchuck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 05:00:09 pm
content: The LED is a nice feature

author: KungFuJosh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 05:54:00 pm
content: Quote from: Aldo22 on July 26, 2025, 08:52:46 am$15?? I would have kept it if it was only $15. I think it was $25 when I briefly had it.

author: shabaz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 06:23:55 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on July 26, 2025, 04:00:21 pmThat's very good value-for-money. For me, I prefer monostable/pulse-stretching more usual on the higher-end multi-meters, whereas the tester you demonstrate replaces that with an LED (you cannot hear the tone when you very rapidly run the probe, but you do see the LED flicker. That's just a different way to achieve a similar result, but entails having to go slowly or look at the LED.The cheap homemade tester I'm using will always pulse-stretch to a few tens of milliseconds, so it's always audible.I don't want to have to remember to disable auto-power-off as with a normal handheld multi-meter, and would rather just have the LED to remind me the instrument is on if I glance at it (whereas others might want to attach the LED+resistor to either before, or after the pulse-stretching, if they preferred behavior closer to what you demonstrate).If I was to do it again, I'd place a wire link to allow the user to choose the LED function since people have different preferences.Also, I'd wire in a switch to allow the user to switch between a very low (e.g. 3 ohm) threshold, and a higher threshold (today I would have to poke a screwdriver in the enclosure hole and turn the trimmer resistor to do that).Also I'd use a larger enclosure, because it was tight with the banana jacks. No-one needs a cigarette-packet-sized continuity tester.I probably wouldn't change much else though. It's already useful enough that I prefer it over the handheld multi-meters I own, if I know I'm only going to be doing continuity testing.Very short video demo:The screenshot below shows what the audio looks like for that demo; all tone bursts are minimum a few tens of msec to guarantee it's capable of being heard.

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 06:27:32 pm
content: Quote from: KungFuJosh on July 26, 2025, 05:54:00 pmNo idea what it costs in the USA today.Have a look here, it's CHF13.12 :https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009447648365.htmlI bought it a few years ago from Conrad for CHF 9.95 as a Basetech BT-22.

author: Simmed
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2025, 06:35:58 pm
content: Quote from: lordstein on July 23, 2025, 10:29:46 am1) a meter that survives drops

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2025, 08:59:13 pm
content: Quote from: shabaz on July 26, 2025, 06:23:55 pmI was zippingreallyfast there for the demo...I think you'll always hear the blip in practice.I'm not saying it's a good meter in other ways or how long it'll last but it's the best continuity tester I own (and I've got Brymens and Flukes).The PCB inside is tiny. For that price you could hack it into a dedicated continuity tester with just an on/off switch and two leads sticking out.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2025, 09:00:12 pm
content: also power electronics love burning the anemic plane copper near the via with a white glow, so good luck repairing them without continuity. You can replace all the parts but it still won't work because of open circuits at the plane soldering thermal relief.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2025, 11:44:28 am
content: Quote from: Aldo22 on July 26, 2025, 06:27:32 pmJust a little FYI/warning: in the past, Uni-T has been known to make different versions of the same meter for different markets, such that thesame modelsold in the EU by a reputable distributor (like Conrad, etc) will come with proper fuses and circuit protection to meet the stated measurement category, while in other countries, they left all that out and used just cheap glass fuses (i.e. they also populate different fuse holders!) while still claiming the same measurement category (even though glass fuses categorically rule out compliance).Of course, the model you linked doesn’t have current measurement and thus likely doesn’t have any fuses at all, but it’s still possible that an AliExpress version omits other input protection that is present in the unit you got through Conrad.Just something to be aware of.

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2025, 12:44:10 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on September 12, 2025, 11:44:28 amExactly, it doesn't have any fuses.Mine from Conrad has version 020818-2, the one inthis reviewhas 020818-1. I don't know if the BT-22 is a custom model or just the next HW version of the UT123.This week I bought a DMM with GS certification fromAldi for 5.95.The device looks and feels much cheaper than the UT123, but it actually has two long 600V fuses in it.It seems almost ridiculous, but it has "Geprüfte Sicherheit".

author: Fungus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2025, 09:01:39 pm
content: Quote from: Aldo22 on September 12, 2025, 12:44:10 pmI got a $12 meter from LIDL that had TUV certification. The certificate number was on the meter and you could look it up.I forget what the rating was, I think it was CAT III 600V.

author: Aldo22
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2025, 09:22:37 pm
content: Quote from: Fungus on September 12, 2025, 09:01:39 pmYes, the same goes for Aldi Ferrex ANS-24-146. Except that it cost even less (CHF 5.99).Fulfilled Standards:EN IEC 61010-2-033:2021+A11EN 61010-1:2010+A1EN 61010-031:2015+A1+A11AfPS GS 2019:01 PAKEK1 527-12 Rev. 2https://www.certipedia.com/certificates/50639471?locale=en