hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Trying to find mating connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: kuon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 24, 2019, 08:58:40 am
content: Hello,I am currently working on a product proof of concept and I need to interface with some medical equipment.The equipment I need to interface with uses CANBus so the electrical/protocol part of things shouldn't be a problem.But I have a very simple problem, I cannot find a connector that match what is on the device.The connector look like the attached image. The pitch is 2mm.I contacted bbraun (the manufacturer) to get more information but they vaguely answered they didn't know.I found some interface cable I could rip apart, but they are 300$.https://www.boundtree.com/IV-Drug-Delivery/Infusers-Syringe-Pumps/SP-Combi-Lead-Cable-12V/p/1850-13387
Trying to find the best battery solution for my project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Mikejab
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 22, 2022, 12:13:33 pm
content: I want to design a small project but my weakness or lack of knowledge is the battery/charging part.My project is a remote controlled vehicle, its speed is not important, 1mph or less is ok, it will run on the grass.Not sure if it will be enough power but will be starting with thesehttps://www.banggood.com/search/1776804.html?from=navand I will have an ISP32cam and another ISP32 board with a couple of servos for cam tilt and vehicle direction. I want to have the battery solar charged during the day and it will be running during the night time scaring skunks, groundhogs and bunnys off my property.I've been spending a couple of days reading about batteries and it is a wild topic.I looked at Lipo but too complex and dangerous, Lithium ion has not enough power, Lifepo4 is too expensive and I am down to SLA.Just wondering if there is a better solution out there and should I go with 6V or 12V (based on motor selection, I am concerned about the weight)Any suggestions would be welcome.

author: cncjerry
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 23, 2022, 12:02:46 am
content: 20V Dewalt power tool batteries. They charge fast are are made for repetitive charging and abuse. Find a higher voltage motor as higher voltage equals lower current. I use them for a lot of projects.

author: Mikejab
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 23, 2022, 01:49:34 am
content: Thanks for the suggestion.I don't know why I didn't think of this. Those are Lithium Ion. In my search, when looking at lithium ion, they all looked like small cell batteries that wouldn't provide enough power unless I pack a bunch raising the cost by a lot.I don't have Dewalt but I do have Ryobi 18V 1300 mAhr and by experience with the power tools I have this would be more than enough I think. I will try to find higher capacity and lower voltage because hooking up a solar panel to recharge anything above 12 v would be too big (I think)
trying to get a triac to work, but unsuccessful  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Gibson486
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2019, 04:28:57 pm
content: I am trying to get a triac to work so it can purposefully blow a fuse (ie crow bar circuit)My first attempt is a no go. I am using this guy:https://www.st.com/content/ccc/resource/technical/document/datasheet/67/06/bc/c9/35/8e/4f/ea/CD00002265.pdf/files/CD00002265.pdf/jcr:content/translations/en.CD00002265.pdfYeah, it is beefy as hell.I started by applying a voltage to the gate pin (9V to start).Then I applied 12V to A1 and GND to A2 (both GNDs are connected from the 2 supplies)Well...that did not work. Out of the gate, everything just shorts. The gate side shorts as well and I cannot get the triac to shut off.Can I not test it this way? I did get it to work by just using one supply and moving the wire that connects the gate from 12V (turns it off) to 0V (turns it on).What am I doing that is incorrect?

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2019, 04:48:28 pm
content: I didn't look at your attachments but the way to test a triac or SCR is to apply a current limited voltage to the anode and then apply a voltage to the gate. That should start conduction, which usually won't stop until you remove the anode potential.Some units will stop conduction with a change in gate drive but mostly you need to stop anode conduction first.If the conduction current doesn't reach a high enough level, the anode current will shut off with removal of drive, as there is a minimum anode current required.Read the data sheet for more information; if there is a test circuit you can reproduce that.

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2019, 06:22:44 pm
content: A schematic would help. There are plenty of circuits if you just search.

author: Gibson486
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2019, 06:33:43 pm
content: I was just going to use the application circuit in the LM431 datasheet. I made a boo boo in ordering parts, though. The voltage threshold for the triac I ordered has a 1.3 volt gate voltage, while the LM431 regulates to around 2.5V. As a result, I had to test the triac separately.I attached a separate file to show the schematic of the triac. I varied the 9V line, but it did not matter since it was shorting.

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2019, 06:56:58 pm
content: Quote from: Gibson486 on August 20, 2019, 04:28:57 pmThat's expected.The anodes A1 A2 must be connected at all times, the Gate pin G is a control pin that can only turn on the triac. The G can not turn off a triac. Once the current through the triac is turned ON, it will stay ON (like a latch) until the current passing through anodes A1 A2 is zero.In other words, if you use a triac for DC, once turned ON, only blowing the fuse will turn the triac off again. Same for thyristors.

author: Gibson486
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2019, 07:18:28 pm
content: Quote from: RoGeorge on August 20, 2019, 06:56:58 pmAwww man...that helps a lot! Thanks.
Trying to get more RAM with very limited pins - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Neywiny
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 12:32:29 am
content: So I have an STM32H745 nucleo-144 board that I need more RAM on. No problem, thought I, this chip has PSRAM and SDRAM capability. Which is good because I need it to work over the AXI bus. If I could do it in software I would, but I need the FMC to get the commands because I'm using things like the LCD controller which read directly from the AXI bus. However, the LQFP144 pin package doesn't bring out the NCAS line for SDRAM. And I only get 11 pins of PSRAM address lines before I run into things like the USB lines. My understanding is that with PSRAM I only send one address, meaning I'd have a whopping 2K of RAM.I've been looking to the feasibility of generating the NCAS line using glue logic or a CPLD (I've never worked with a CPLD before so I don't even know if that's a good use for them). It looks from the timing diagram (figure 125/page 907 inhttps://www.st.com/resource/en/reference_manual/dm00176879-stm32h745755-and-stm32h747757-advanced-armbased-32bit-mcus-stmicroelectronics.pdf), I should be able to wait for NRAS, count TRCD, then drop my NCAS line. When SDNE goes back high I bring back up my NCAS line and reset my counter and all that. The thing is, the datasheet's table 89 indicates that they're guaranteeing a 0.5 nS maximum time in dropping NCAS, and frankly I don't know if there's much glue logic out there that can do that kind of nanosecond speed. I've seen maybe 2.5 nS at the bare minimum, which is looking like its in the range of possibility but it'd push it. Especially since the majority of these chips use some low voltages and I think I could get the IO down to 1.8V on this board with a jumper but I don't know for sure and I don't know if the USB and ethernet stuff on the PCB would be compatible with that. So I might need to factor in a level shifter as well.And this all relies on the SDRAM controller part of the die being in working order. I think it's possible they could've chosen to not break out 1 signal to prevent people from using it if they were getting low yields and needed a way to sell them, I don't know. Seems plausible.Does any of this seem like a good idea? I don't even know how to test something like this if something goes wrong, I have a multimeter and that's it. I've done around a year with FPGAs so I know my way around and could use one to interface, but it would have to be very high speed and very cheap. Broke college kid and all that.Thank you.
Trying to get some technical advice about inputs at a TIA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: LoveLaika
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2020, 11:26:47 pm
content: I'm trying to conceptually understand what would happen in a transimpedance amplifier circuit when it is loaded down at the input. Using the example circuit below, a J-series photomultiplier would add 1.04 nanoFarads to the inverting input. That's based on the datasheet in the link below. If that's the case, as you put more and more sensors in parallel with each other, you're increasing the capacitance. How much capacitance can the op-amp handle, and what are some techniques that can compensate for that high capacitance (if it is unavoidable)?https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MICROJ-SERIES-D.PDF
Trying to hack some sort of police radio. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2015, 06:10:00 pm
content: I know this might be illegal but i found thisfor nix so i thought i would try out to hear to somepolice radio.As u will see in the images this thing works near 800-900mhz.And idk anything abut RF gear so any help would be greatfull.This has a set bnc and a antena bnc and a data rs 232 outputi tryed powering it but with no luck i bealive it has to do somthingwith the rs 232 since a transistor pin is connected to pin 9 of thers 232 plug.And more than that idk anything.And i still cant upload any photos cuz of this 2mb max size well g+ it be.Sry for the night photos was kinda in a hurry.https://plus.google.com/+EIsad/posts/BzmC3ALdzye?pid=6147676171516596066&oid=113769772046139607620

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2015, 06:22:28 pm
content: If the electronics in the picture is all there is this is not a radio but rather a PA (power amplifier) and a duplex filter, the PA outputs about 7 W with an input of 1 mW. It could be a complete transmitter, not sure what the black pcb with all the parts is. The set bnc output is where the receiver connects. Maybe not voice but data transmitter.

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2015, 07:08:17 pm
content: Quote from: PA0PBZ on May 11, 2015, 06:22:28 pmProbably data.I dont have any pc with a rs 232and even so idk how on earth i am goan make it power onit needs some kind of signal from the rs 232.So no police talk oh well lol.Can it be used to amplifie a signal?

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2015, 07:38:06 pm
content: The block with M67717 is made to do that, but in a frequency band of 872-905 MHz, not sure what you want to do there apart from getting into trouble.http://www.rf-microwave.com/datasheets/4244_MITSUBISHI_M67717_01.pdf

author: Isad
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2015, 08:30:07 pm
content: Quote from: PA0PBZ on May 11, 2015, 07:38:06 pmYeah maybe no i will just leave this one alone lol i tryed other stuff near that band.The police got a bit crazy that day but they never knew who it was since they didnt have theequiptment now they got crazy gear.
Trying to ID and source some surface mounted components on a motherboard - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: SolderSucker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2018, 02:50:58 pm
content: I've recently reinvigorated my interest in dabbling with repairing faulty Nintendo Switch consoles purchased from Ebay.My success rate is pretty good but in some cases I'm having great difficulty in identifying suitable replacements for some of the passive components, also some connectors. I'm alright with the actual reflow work - okay, it's fiddly, but I'm learning fast.The caps are variable sizes, the resistors are mostly about half a millimetre in length and values vary - 100K, 200K, and so on.Nintendo naturally don't release parts lists or schematics (I'd be surprised if they did!) so it's a case of knuckling down and seeing what I can identify.If I was to provide pointers to some decent photos of the motherboard would anyone be able to help me locate some of the FFC connectors please? There's also a connector for the battery which I can't identify (unless of course it's unique to the Switch), the connector can be seen in the top left corner of this photo -https://www.unitechnix.de/images/nintendo-switch/bild-14.jpgThanks in anticipation of any advice or pointers.

author: In Vacuo Veritas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2018, 02:52:56 pm
content: If you look close, like reeeeaaaaal close, often there is a small manufacturer's logo stamped on the connectors.

author: SolderSucker
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2018, 03:07:46 pm
content: Quote from: In Vacuo Veritas on December 03, 2018, 02:52:56 pmThanks. Just tried that with a 30x magnifier and I see that there are numbers and letters on two of the tabs for the 4-pin FFC connectors - even though both connectors appear identical one has on it -A3 MK1 (yet the same part on another board is marked A4 MK1)the other isA7 MK1 (the same part on another board is marked A2 MK1)Does that help at all?One of the longer FFC connectors (27 pins I think) has MX 1 (or MX I ) in one of the recessesHere's one of the medium sized connectors (used for the rails that the Joy-Con controllers connect to) -https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/538-503566-1100
Trying to ID flash/eeprom? chip - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: itscoldoutside
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2019, 10:31:23 pm
content: Hello all,I hope this is the correct section, sorry if it isn't. I am trying to identify the chip shown in the attached picture, sorry the picture isn't great but the chip is tiny. The main marking is ATH236 (ATMLH236)? I think it's an atmel chip something like this maybehttp://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/devicedoc/Atmel-8779-SEEPROM-AT24HC02C-Datasheet.pdfbut I am not sure.I'd like to try and read, replicate or maybe rewrite it if possible, but hard without knowing what it is or the pinout etc.It's used to limit how many minutes I can operate a machine until I have to buy another pack of consumables (hardware DRM!) it's so wasteful as I have plenty of consumables left that I cannot use (it's a cd/dvd cleaning machine for those wondering). Not to mention the price of consumables have gone up 40% since I bought the machine, bypassing the chip won't change anything, I'll still have to buy them but at least I'll be able to use up all of the compound etc before having the pay out again.Any help would be very much appreciated.

author: jhpadjustable
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2019, 12:51:42 am
content: Only half kidding that "Dodgy Technology" might have been a good place for it.AT24C02C, standard 256x8 I2C serial EEPROM, no special features like serial numbers or ID bytes or crypto or anything like that. Your choice of I2C reading/writing tool should work. For the ridiculous margins involved, I'd expect them to have spent some time on countermeasures, so I can't promise that "refilling" the key wouldn't brick the whole system.

author: itscoldoutside
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2019, 06:58:52 pm
content: I just opened up two more of these dongles / chips one is ATH448 the other is ATH552 so all three are different so far.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2019, 07:28:51 pm
content: Quote from: itscoldoutside on November 17, 2019, 06:58:52 pmDate code.
Trying to identify a square keyed header connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ezalys
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 12:46:57 am
content: Hey all,I'm just trying to identify the mating connector for the attached keyed header connector. Has anyone seen one like this? I'm used to ribbon connectors having a single notch on one edge, but this has two shallow notches on one side and two deeper notches on the other. Perhaps I should just replace the connector? It it's 2x5 with 2 mm spacing.Thanks everyone!Evan

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 12:52:43 am
content: JST PHD.

author: ezalys
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 01:29:16 am
content: Wow that was quick! Thanks! Do you have a suggestion for a budget-conscious crimper I could get to crimp the corresponding pins?

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2018, 04:02:11 am
content: Engineer PA..09, 20, 21? I can't recall which is which. Around the $40-50 mark iirc.
Trying to identify this cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: zippyts
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 06, 2016, 01:31:04 am
content: I am trying to figure out what these interconnects are/for. I picked them up on a whim from a thrift store. Cable is about the same size as RG174. It is not an optical cable, and is a shielded coax, but the ends I have never seen before.http://imgur.com/a/4CdBXhttp://imgur.com/a/cWzPD

author: Micke
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2016, 09:04:45 am
content: Very strange cable!My guess is that the cable is used for interconnect some kind of High Voltage, they seem to have made big effort making the distance as big as possible between ground and center conductor.Does not look like a RF thing, and PTFE cable has high dielectric strength suitable for HV.

author: zippyts
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 06, 2016, 09:30:33 am
content: so thinking high voltage low current?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2016, 09:58:36 am
content: Well itcouldbe high voltage, it could also possibly be a very low leakage cable for electrometer / picoammeter type applications. The insulation looks like polyethylene rather than PTFE. I don't recognise the connectors either, they look proprietary.

author: zippyts
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 06, 2016, 10:19:20 am
content: Yeah I have about 50 of them too

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2016, 11:44:03 am
content: They look like medical screened leads to me. Think EKG/ECG or similar. Usually different colours to identify leads on machine.Fraser

author: zippyts
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 07, 2016, 06:50:27 am
content: Thanks I will look into that

author: salbayeng
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2016, 01:11:29 pm
content: Look medical to me too, meant to be disposable no doubt.

author: zippyts
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 07, 2016, 04:29:22 pm
content: So I have been looking into medical, and most anything I find is a banana lead, and not coaxial. So I think this is not Medical.I also do not think it is meant to be disposable. It looks too well made for that.

author: zippyts
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 17, 2016, 12:11:34 pm
content: Bump
Trying to identify this connector... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: IDEngineer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2020, 11:01:18 pm
content: It's used to charge a captive, internal battery. I'd like to find both ends. I'm working on getting a better, off-axis view of the panel connector and will post it once I have it.Thanks for any assistance!
Trying to implement a 3.7v battery Low Power Management Circuit for a Wearable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Rishles69@
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2024, 06:04:33 pm
content: So For my Wearable project, I needed to have a Simple but efficient Battery monitoring and Charging system for 3.7v batteries having 500-800mA Current. I Want my circuit to fulfill these requirements--> Low power consumption (Should not exceed more than 100uA)--> Commonly available components--> Should Be smaller and simple--> Better Charging and overvoltage protection--> Accurate voltage and current monitoring via microcontroller--> Battery charging and low battery signals to the microcontrollerAnd i Made a Schematic on Kicad based on these requirements with reference to-->https://esp32s3.com/pros3.html#pins(i followed almost everything on their schematic since it claims to only consume 26uA)--> My own knowledgeThe problems I'm facing are--> TP4056 package is too big for a wearable. I tried using TP4057 but its limited to 500mAh Max. Then i came across MCP73833 but it generates more heat than expected and horribly inefficient. And then icame across with LTC4054. It claims to have a charging current of maximum 800mAh and uses less components. The datasheets says that i could monitor the battery through the PROG pin of the chipvia microcontroller. But what does it actually monitor? Charge of the battery? Charging status? and how can i implement this on my project? And can i be able to remove the MAX17048 on my schematicif LTC4054 actually, has it? And is it true that LTC4054 is somewhat unstable? i can't get a hold on which charging ic is the best or LTC4054 fits the best on my project.--> Can i use VDD_SPI pin on the ESP32-s3 to control the voltage of an LCD display which consumes about 38mA Max, Like automatically cutting the power off from the display when the microcontrollergoes to sleep? On the Pros3 schematic (https://esp32s3.com/pros3.html#pins) they used a voltage regulator and a logic gate to control the power of external modules. Can i apply this same with theVDD_SPI pin? So that the microcontroller goes to sleep, The LCD turns off along with the external flash chip for the esp32s3 and save power.--> Do i need to make any changes on my schematic?
Trying to improve rpm consistency of this drive - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2021, 02:21:09 pm
content: I've been modifying a Sony MPF-920 3.5" floppy for retrocomputing, but its rpm is not consistent under heavy seeking. I'll attach a picture of its control board. On some older drives I noticed that the board that drive the motor/rpm was a separate board, maybe they did that to isolate it. Anyway, under heavy seeking, the rpm on this drive speeds/slows enough to make it unfit for what I am trying. Would adding a capacitor possibly smooth out the draw form the stepper? Or perhaps the cap would be better on the motor power side. Any other ideas?Not a picture of my drive, but very close.
Trying to learn a bit more about high-resolution ADC's - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2012, 02:43:15 am
content: Good night, to spend some time I decided to get my feet wet with some 16 bits ADC's, for now I have choosen the ADC161S626 from National/TI, the idea is to feed it with a 2.5v reference, or maybe an 2.048 or 4.096, but I have lots of doubts on how to make the analog front-end to drive the ADC, as it seems that a lot of secret sauce goes in there, for now I would like to only add one buffer/scalling stage to center the signal at Vref/2, and after watching some TI videos I dont know where do they get this equations:Also if you know some nice app-notes about how to design such a front-end I would love to read them.Best regards.

author: MikeO
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2012, 04:40:29 am
content: Senso, look for docs written by Bob Pease.Regards,Mike O'

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2012, 12:35:22 pm
content: Ditto for James M. Bryant

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2012, 02:26:44 pm
content: Thanks for the names, I have been reading, but nothing really specific, or the specific app-notes are for transformer driven front-endsI will keep searching.

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2012, 06:47:01 pm
content: After reading a lot of app-notes and datasheets, and some pretty nice AnalogZone documents from TI I have a better understanding on how all this SAR ADC's work and how to buffer their inputs, but I can't seen to find a nice rail-to-rail input and output op-amp that doens't have crippled Vin common mode voltages, they are all limited to 1 or 2v in the best cases, and usually only about 300mV differential inputs are allowed.I will go the single ended route for now, it seems a bit easier and the trully diffferential op-amps are very limited in choice.So I'm asking for some good to use op-amps.And I would like to have a sanity check.Based on this:I can set my common mode voltage to 2.5v, and then use a 2.048v reference so I dont need to really hit the rails when driving the ADC, because even rail-to-rail op-amps dont have perfect drive capabilities near the rails.

author: mrflibble
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2012, 01:32:05 am
content: Google "adc Bonnie Baker". Good app-notes + videos on delta-sigma ADC's.
Trying to make electric golf push cart - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Gmoney71
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 21, 2024, 03:06:58 am
content: Hello everyone and first off, thanks for taking any of your time and sharing your knowledge-it's appreciated.First-I know nothing but want to build an electric golf push cart-- using an electric hub and longboard ESC with remote..I have no idea if I can.. I want to use something like this?1-https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B085DKQ6Q2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2XKXB5S7PDYFN&psc=1and match with2-https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09CZ4TDBQ/ref=ewc_pr_img_3?smid=A2UFNNBBXBWQFC&psc=13-https://www.amazon.ca/Lithium-Ion-Battery-150W-500W-Rechargeable-Replacement/dp/B0B73DD6PV/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2UQURYLCIGXWR&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.pG5_yvnD4r8h8okt2vjB831B7PiP13daE1s8kKLLk2taoWm8SoaVrhoSuSrBjCu1FzHAYjUT8f35k7mzWThCdYPwQm4rf8emksJphhrldJ9RqRZ5bqSEWB9IICVhLK9Mx2eDtL-bxjcNb-R-hHZ6EymPzIJMN2YvxHM9UwohCKor4z2rdYZvK8a2vBScRQM5KmY8SBBCOq2L5L2jWtvRRyUyPXYs_rEJ2VXF4c7I9Z1vnLuS9DISEmGlHud4VbfCGWj9FzOLiUxSMUdqJHrladx73tprkX20gRI_Eh32z-U.9ACpbZ5J_x6_1wOEB6qDJgmOkjbwV_4L3gPsrRo8oPY&dib_tag=se&keywords=batteries+for+electric+longboard+36v&qid=1705806104&s=sports&sprefix=batteries+for+electric+longboard+36v%2Csporting%2C201&sr=1-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.b06bdbbe-20fd-4ebc-88cf-fa04f1ca0da8I do not know if this can be paired or not and I don't know the batteries I would need-- trying to keep it cheap--can buy one for 799 Canadian but would love to use my ClicGear push cart and use the remote?Well--let me know what you think--appreciate any guidance--Thanks

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2024, 11:08:30 am
content: You can get cheap hub motor kits on Ali.An accelerometer can sense the starting force on the cart. Low cost modules/ pcbs abound on the intewrweb. You'll need a small micro to sense the force and control the hub kit. It could also monitor the batter charge state. eg an Arduino.https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-E%2525252dBike-Conversion-Kit.html?g=y&SearchText=E-Bike+Conversion+Kit&sortType=price_ascFor a 250W motor ~10A@24V is reqd. It's very unlikely you'll ever need 250W though.50Ah batteries can be sourced from Ali as well.https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-Electric-Bike-Battery-24V.html?g=y&SearchText=Electric+Bike+Battery+24V&sortType=price_asc50Ah will give you about 5 hours at full tilt. So more than enough.Reduction belt drive kithttps://www.joom.com/en/products/60e6c3bbd6dd48019bf038ee?variant_id=60e6c3bbd6dd48b59bf038f0Dont ask me about hooking it all up though!

author: Gmoney71
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 26, 2024, 11:13:57 pm
content: Sorry could figure out how to reply!!! anyway thanks for the information-- the more I get the more options I have-- so do you know if I use the 36v 350w hub-36v ESC controller what batteries should I source-- you recommended the 50AH ones is that also 36v?Thanks again
Trying to put custom firmware on cheap LCD thermometer / voltmeter. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Jaunedeau
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2021, 11:24:30 am
content: Hi,I bought a cheap triple 8 segments LCD display thermometer form aliexpress. It does a not really crappy but not really good job either. I thought I could calibrate it by modifying the firmware or making my own just for fun and to learn things (I know it would be faster and cheap to buy a better thermometer)[ Specified attachment is not available ]Marking on the chip has been erased (or never printed it seems ?), but following what appears to be a programming socket (pads ? how do you call them ?), it goes like this :1 -> GND2 -> mcu pin 183 -> +5V4 -> mcu pin 4Since reset is probably needed, I looked at datasheet of cheap 8bit mcu with one wire debug/program pins. After trying microchip, I tried ST and looking the cheapest family (STM8S) mcus available in 20 pin packages, I found the STM8S003 and STM8S103. Looking at the datasheet I forgot the STM8S103 because of the pinout, but STM8S003 is very likely. Pinout would give :1 -> Vss2 -> SWIM (one wire program/debug interface)3 -> Vdd4 -> NRST (reset)Aslo the NTC would then be connected to pin 20 (PD3 (HS)/AIN4/TIM2_CH2/ADC_ETR, AIN4 being usable for ADC, that makes sense)I then searched for "STM8S003 thermometer" on google, and could not find things about this thermometer, but got a lot of result about STM8S003 based voltmeter which have very similar PCB, casing, and segment display as mine.Pretty sure I have an STM8S003 clone (because of no marking on the package), I tryed to start OpenOCD with my $1.5 st-link 2 dongle, but I could not read not write. Rebooted on windows,installed 80MB ST tool, which could not read not write either,but told me that it failed to communicate and I should try to maintain NRST low when powering the MCU. I did that and the thermometer started normally, ignoring the reset.So I am currently stuck there :-Is there an mcu search tool where I could tell which pins are Vss,Vdd, RESET and analog input and would list me possible mcus ?-Are there clones of the STM8S003 that ignore 0V on NRST ?-Any trick that I missed about identifying this chip ? (I've read indication about power glitching STM8 on the cheap with an arduino, but could not find the source,and buyng and learning to program FPGAs just to try to get the firmware is a bit too much work form me... I would rather replace the chip with a brand new STM8S003)Thx,Jaune.
Trying to Understand Interacting Components... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mriksman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2020, 12:18:15 pm
content: I have the following circuit on a board.If I leave DIM2 floating, then when I ground DIM1 - it only dims from 240VAC down to 151VAC.If I ground DIM2, then when I ground DIM1, it will dim down fully to off.How is DIM2 pin affecting DIM1...?

author: mriksman
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2020, 04:48:50 pm
content: I have some more observationsWith DIM CONTROL2 floating, and DIM CONTROL 1 grounded, GATE1 voltage is 0 and GATE2 voltage is 16.6V (which is fully ON; internally the IC has a 17V driver).Which is to be expected. If DIM CONTROL1 = 0V, duty cycle is 0% so the RMS of the GATE1 voltage is 0V. Additionally, DIM CONTROL 2 is actually C3 charged to 5V (internally Vdd of the IC generates 5V). 2.5V is 100%, and anything over 4V is actually a special case to let the IC know to turn off switching and go full ON. As such, the GATE2 has RMS voltage of ~17V.Yet I am seeing LIGHT1 partially ON (154V)!? Yet GATE1 is OFF. Somehow it's being partially lit from the GATE2/LIGHT2 MOSFET
Trying to understand some networking concepts for my embedded application - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Red_Micro
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 10:11:15 pm
content: I embarked on an embedded project to learn more about networking. Let's say I'm looking to have a PLC as a Modbus TCP server with dual Ethernet ports. On one port I would like to connect the PLC to a LAN either in star or ring topology. The second port should be used to connect other ethernet devices/PLCs in daisy chain. The PLC has a host processor with an integrated MAC. While researching, it seems I need a Ethernet switch with two PHYs for my dual-port application. I'm getting confused finding terms such as DSA (Distributed Switch Architecture) and Virtual LANs. Let's say I pick one Ethernet switch (KSZ8873 from Microchip). It has two Ethernet PHYs and the MII interface would be connected to the MAC of the PLC host processor.Since I'm looking to daisy chain devices through of one the ports of my PLC, then I don't think I need to set VLANs in the KSZ8873. If I were to manage both ports as separate Ethernet connection at the same time, then VLAN would make sense. Similarly, setting the switch KSZ8873 as DSA device would mean two separate network interfaces. Is this correct?
Trying to understand this variable power supply circuit (LM317) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Yamin
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2020, 01:23:57 pm
content: Hi guys,I was hoping that you could explain the following circuit used in a variable power supply. It consists of an LM317.1. I don't understand what the two diodes V5, V34 and zener diode V8 is used for? What kind of a 'magic' does that bit of circuit do?2. The JFet is used as a variable resistor for the Adjust pin, but why use it when there is R4 a potentiometer.3. R7 I assume sets a kind of a lower limit, because R4 is the main potentiometer used to adjust the output voltage. R7 is one of those small blue potentiomters and the adjustment screw is glued. The power supply could be varied from 0-30V.I hope you guys could help me understand this circuit a bit more. Any more tips would be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance.

author: duak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2020, 09:47:26 pm
content: An LM317 develops a 1.2 V reference voltage between its output and adj pins. If a resistance Rr is placed between these pins a current Ir of 1.2 V / Rr will flow through it. Resistance R4 is placed between the adj pin and a voltage negative relative to the input voltage, a voltage of R4 x Ir will be developed across it. The output voltage V3 will then be the sum of Vadj + 1.2 V relative to the more negative voltage.With is in mind, I think V5, V8 & V34 generate a stable -2 V to one end of R4 to allow the output voltage V3 to go down to slightly below 0 V relative to ground. This compensates for the 1.2 V minimum output voltage.R7 varies the current Ir and adjusts the output voltage when R4 is at its maximum.FET V12 will conduct current between its drain & source when its gate to source voltage is less than the FETs cutoff voltage. I think it will reduce the voltage on V3 when VSS is missing or lower than expected. This is often used to protect some devices or prevent improper operation of some circuits.Note that the LM317 has a minimum load of 5 mA so Rr is usually 240R or less. If R90 opens, Vadjust will go down and the LM317s minimum load current will be applied to the circuitry following V3.
Ts02n capacitive touch ic not working right on glass why? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: navidrct
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 04, 2017, 04:45:41 pm
content: HiI have this ic that is ts02n that is capacitive touchIt suppose to work with glassI have 1 cm to 1 cm pad connected to itAnd 1 pf cap sense to it and 10 k on r_biasIt work good without glass on it's touch pad but it does not work with glass on it's touch padWhat can I do?
TS100 stand - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: tichy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 09, 2022, 02:05:34 pm
content: Hello everybodyI would like to share my mini projector stand for TS100 solder. The stand is made of 3 parts:1. Base 50x50x10 with M10 thread in the middle2. A stand which is made of round bar turned down into 3 diameters and a thread on each side4. Solder holder itself.The stand is primarily intended for stationary use on a table and is therefore relatively heavy for high stability. Stability is very good even with the cable connected.If there was more interest, I would create a drawing for all the parts. But the dimensions are very loose, I made it myself according to the material I just had. I hope it will be another inspiration for anyone for the next project.Sincerely, Tichy

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2022, 05:24:41 pm
content: Welcome to the forum.Nice construction. A good example of build to fit, from what you have, over buying something that half works.
TS555 pin layout - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: loistvan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 24, 2021, 05:57:24 pm
content: Hi,I'm trying to solder a TS555IDTTR timer IC into my pcb, but there is no apparent marking on the package to denote pin 1. How to resolve this ambiguity, how to determine the correct orientation of the chip? Thanks!

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 24, 2021, 06:06:09 pm
content: Welcome to the forum.If SOIC packages don't have an specific pin 1 marker then they have a chamfer on the side of the package with pins 1-4 (Edit: in this case).

author: loistvan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 24, 2021, 06:08:02 pm
content: Wonderful, indeed! Thank you very much for the fast help!
Analog switch inconsistencies - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: JeWe37
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 08, 2021, 02:22:31 pm
content: Recently Iaskedfor a way to spoof the HD Audio connector's jack detection networks so as to be able to manually switch them(further details in that post). I subsequently was recommended to use an analog switch, for which purpose I chose theTS5A23159, as it can handle up to 5V and has the required low On-Resistance so as to not mess with the detection. It is set up as shown in this image:A few days ago I got the PCBs and soldered them, however when attempting to test the circuit I noticed erratic behavior from the switch. More detailed investigation revealed that the switch seemed to not be turning off properly once Vcc had been removed and not turning on immediately when it was applied, but did generally seem to be switching. This is behavior that I would expect if there were no proper pull-down resistors, however as is evident from the schematic, they are indeed present and 10kΩ should be sufficient to quickly discharge any stray capacitances or similar. I am at a loss for what might be causing the instability I have observed. Does anyone have a clue as to what might be going on?
TSL2591 low light sensitivity - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: JimRemington
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2021, 04:54:53 pm
content: I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has done careful, low light tests with the TSL2591 sensor, or someone who could comment critically on my reading of the data sheet and likely erroneous calculations.I am using the Adafruit modulehttps://www.adafruit.com/product/1980,with the on board LED disabled. Last night, which was moonless and clear, I attempted to obtain readings from starlight by pointing the sensor in the general direction of the constellation Orion.Settings: maximum gain, 600 ms integration time, I observe ~ 60 counts in the visible channel (dark background 1 count). Pointing at the ground, illuminated by starlight, led to about 30 counts.The TSL2591 data sheet claims the sensitivity for white LED light (4000 K) at maximum gain, 100 ms integration time to be (typically) 264 counts per uW/cm2.At least three sources on the web suggest that integrated starlight is about 3 uW/cm2, so, taking into account my integration time of 600 ms, the observed counts seem too low by 80x, or roughly two orders of magnitude.Suggestions appreciated!

author: StillTrying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2021, 06:26:02 pm
content: Optical measurements are made using small-angle incident radiation from light-emitting diode optical sources.Is it something to do with its angle of view, which doesn't seem to be mentioned.It's on page TSL2591–8https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/TSL25911_Datasheet_EN_v1.pdf

author: JimRemington
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 02, 2021, 08:09:16 pm
content: Excellent point, thanks!The angular response of the sensor is given in the data sheet, as a plot on p. 11 of the data sheet. The half-width at half maximum for the visible photodiode is 60 degrees, which means it is looking at a relatively small fraction of the night sky.As a very crude estimate, consider just the +/-15 degree cone with 100% response. The solid angle is 2 pi (1 - cos(theta)) = 0.2 steradians, so the sensor is seeing about 1/30 of the hemisphere.I'd say that the angular cone of vision goes a long way toward accounting for the apparent discrepancy.

author: StillTrying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2021, 02:35:07 am
content: Try the Moon.
TSOP-32 Flash Programmer: SST39SF040 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2021, 11:49:14 am
content: Any ideas for programming a SST39SF040 out of circuit?My design requires only 4K of Flash so A11..A18 are redundant but this seems to be the cheapest way to get 4Kx8 5VThanks in advance

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2021, 01:16:03 pm
content: I found "MiniPro Original Adapters TSOP32 TSOP40 TSOP48 SOP44 SOP56 for TL866CS/TL866A" on EBAYI didn't realise that the TL866CS supported wider devices (presumably using shift registers).
TSOP-II 44 To DIP PCB Feedback - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: vfxsoup
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 20, 2019, 04:55:07 pm
content: Hi,New to the forum but been a lurker for a little while.I'm starting a project that will use mostly thru-hole chips and components. There's one SRAM chip that I can't get in DIP form so decided to design a small PCB to convert from TSOP-II 44 to a DIP configuration so that I can prototype with it, either on breadboards or stripboard/veroboard. I also thought it might be a good first PCB to get manufactured by JLCPCB for a couple of dollars.I feel silly asking as it's so simple but I was wondering if you could critique it, and let me know if I've made any blunders; in particular I've had to use vias to route the traces underneath the board to keep the overall size down. I also took the liberty of putting 0603 bypass caps across the VCC/GND pins for the particular chip (Cypress CY7C1020CV33) to reduce clutter on the breadboard, but these are optional if another TSOP II sized chip needed to be converted at another time.Images attached - top, bottom and combined from EasyEDA.Thanks!

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2019, 05:36:34 pm
content: Such adapters can be bought off-the-shelf. Why reinvent the wheel?And your reference to JLCPCB smells...

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2019, 05:37:47 pm
content: Maybe have a look at other popular TSOP-44 chips and see if there are other common Vcc/GND configurations that you can also offer decoupling cap spot for.I'd also use the more generous "hand soldered" 0603 footprints (which give more room on the pad to facilitate hand-soldering). The footprints you used look more suitable for solder paste application.

author: vfxsoup
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2019, 09:08:53 am
content: Quote from: Benta on May 20, 2019, 05:36:34 pmYou're right; I've found one such adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Proto-Advantage-TSOP-44-DIP-44-Adapter-pitch/dp/B00JU3J7XE) but its footprint is wider than I'd like, and it's expensive to get it shipped over here. Plus my design incorporates the bypass caps.QuoteNot quite sure I understand but if J****B is a rude word around here I'll say it no moreThanks.

author: vfxsoup
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 21, 2019, 09:12:20 am
content: Quote from: sokoloff on May 20, 2019, 05:37:47 pmGood idea, thanks - there's plenty of room on the top side of the board for these.QuoteYes I did wonder about whether the 0603 might be a bit small for hand soldering. I'll make them wider (the 0805 pads were a bit of a tight squeeze which is why I decided on 0603).Thanks.

author: TimCambridge
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2019, 05:26:00 pm
content: Quote from: Benta on May 20, 2019, 05:36:34 pmQuoteebay.co.uk, around £1 to £2 each, next day delivery. There's at least one, could be others tucked away.
TSOP Series response time - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ElectricGuy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 10:01:46 pm
content: Hi all;Does somebody know the response time of a TSOP series device, like TSOP1738?I want to know the time that takes when the modulated IR hits the sensor, and tha change in the output.I didn't see that specification on the datasheet.Thank you!

author: suicidaleggroll
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 10:09:14 pm
content: I'm not sure if I'm reading this right, but it looks like td (time delay) is between 7/f0 and 15/f0. For f0=38kHz, that's 184-395uS (Figure 7):http://www.micropik.com/PDF/tsop17xx.pdf

author: ElectricGuy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 10:20:11 pm
content: Quote from: suicidaleggroll on March 06, 2015, 10:09:14 pmYou're probably right! I send a message to Vishay. Lets see if they answer to this question.Thank you!
TSOP40 adaptor for TL866 pinout - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: tony359
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2020, 02:37:43 pm
content: Hello all,I have a small PCB with two AM29F080B chips on it. This PCB fits on another board and the reason it's removable it's in case upgrading the firmware of the machine goes wrong.I am attempting to create a copy of this PCB, including the content of the eeproms.I have a TL866II-plus which can read those chips but I do not want to desolder them and buy the adaptor: each leg of the chips is already ending up to a pin which I would like to tie to the TL866 in order to red/write the data.However, looking at pictures of the TSOP40 adaptor boards for the TL866, I am not sure whether the pinout is straight - that is, 1-1, 2-2 etc. It's definitely more complicated for TSOP48 as the TL866 does not have 48 inputs and I can see additional components on the adaptor.The software is telling me to use the "TSOP40-A 8 bit" adaptor which from the pictures I found does not seem to have any components on it. Would someone point me in the right direction where to find the exact pinout of that configuration?Thanks!