hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
$3.65 Smartphone - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Connoiseur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2016, 07:53:31 am
content: Checkout!A company has just rolled out an el-cheapo 251INR phone which is a hot topic these days....WebsiteCan't imagine how on earth did manage to do it. Perhaps they've bodged together things like the legendary esinomed tab or could be just an experiment.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2016, 07:57:17 am
content: Well, they started with a power supply with no rating on itYou use your imagination to guess what it is, and if you guessed wrong, your house will be on fire.That sound like that One Plus One bait and switch deal. There will be an upgraded model, which is more expensive, and they only have 1000 of them for $3.65.It will be $3.65, when they prove that they can deliver a substantial number of them.

author: crispy_tofu
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2016, 08:08:18 am
content: Does everything have to be designed like an iPhone these days?...

author: Connoiseur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2016, 08:25:21 am
content: Quote from: ataradov on February 21, 2016, 07:57:17 amOh my goodness! Now we are competing with China in rolling out dodgy electronics.WakeBIS!

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2016, 08:28:54 am
content: That's gotta be a subsidized price of some sort. Even with poor and unsafe components like chargers $3.65 is still way too low of a price. That touchscreen alone costs more. Not to mention the quad core 1.2Ghz CPU it sports. Something is fishy about that price.

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2016, 08:31:51 am
content: You are a bit behind the news.The "prototype" presented was a chinese smartphone with the logo covered with twink.http://forums.androidcentral.com/general-news-discussion/645266-4-freedom-251-may-not-actually-deal-century.htmlhttp://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-india-35601544http://hackaday.com/2016/02/18/3-smartphone-from-india/

author: HAL-42b
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2016, 09:17:43 am
content: Even at 37$ the Adcom is still very good value.
Hakko fx 100 & Metcal hand pieces - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Wolfram.Chrome
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2016, 07:10:06 am
content: Guys i want to buy for my self hakko fx 100 induction soldering station.I don't really like the original hand-piece of this station,so can i use an metcal hand-piece with sttc cartriges and also MX-H2-UF handpiece?can i do tht or not .....?Im asking this ,because i've heard in some part of the net that is possible ,but i want the confirm from you guys .Thanks for your help .

author: marber
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2016, 07:29:39 am
content: I suspect you can, because I've done the exact opposite which works just fine: combined a used Metcal MX-500 station with a new Hakko FX-100's hand piece and holder.

author: Wolfram.Chrome
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2016, 07:50:55 am
content: Quote from: marber on March 05, 2016, 07:29:39 amthis is perfect !!!!!!
BK Precision 866 device programmer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dorkshoei
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2015, 12:25:44 am
content: Anyone have an idea on value for a used BK 866? Any suggestions/comments? Still supported by latest software.Discontinued in 2007:http://www.bkprecision.com/products/discontinued/866-universal-device-programmer-with-usb-interface.htmlIt's basically an Elnac Beeprog:http://www.elnec.com/products/device-programmers/beeprog/

author: dorkshoei
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2015, 01:09:35 am
content: no one?

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2015, 07:05:05 pm
content: For a secondhand one I'd only pay $20-30 for it (I'm in the market for one as well, just not in a hurry). There are many different brands of Chinese programmers now with a ton of attachments and also a ton of supported devices. The thousand dollar price tag is a bit of a joke, always get that problem though trying to pay off development costs.

author: Electro Fan
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 14, 2015, 12:14:30 am
content: Worth a look-see:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-411-minipro-tl866-universal-programmer-review/

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2016, 03:20:03 am
content: do you want to sell iteven now it is a very good programmer, keep it.I have a dataman 48 ... who is a renamed beeprog+ i love it, with the isp connector, very practical, but i hate the software interface a bit.The problem is with the adapters, Elnec charge $$$ for whant you can find cheaper on Ebay.You can ask for at least 200$ for it, i have paid mine 550$ (used).tl866 is a lot cheaper than your programmer, wont support as many ic's than you Elnec "bk 866"
fixing caps to the PCB: gluable heat shrink tubing vs. the right adhesive? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: helge
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2016, 06:10:30 pm
content: it's a bit like searching the internet for some obscure transformer winding technique right after the "Transformers" movie: there are some terms that just don't yield results in the right context. That's why I'd like to raise the question here.I'm looking for heat shrink tubing you can glue down to secure horizontally mounted radial caps. I've perused the Maxwell documents for a hint what type of shrink wrap tube they use for labeling. I can't tell whether PVC is used (an arbitrary PVC MSDS did not mention hazardous chlorinated substances even in the event of a fire oO) and they don't say what they used.They nevertheless suggest the caps be glued with silicone or any "other adhesive" without going into chemical compatibility details.As far as I can tell there are three options:1) trial&error search for a compatible glue that stands up to vibrations2) peel the caps and glue directly to the aluminium - most adhesives will happily stick to aluminium3) cover the caps with a suitable shrink wrapping of known material and glue compatibility.Before I venture any deeper into any of these I'd love to hear your opinions and experiences.- Helge

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2016, 06:43:02 pm
content: Why not use an axial cap? If you need to mount a radial cap horizontally, you could just use a tie wrap to secure it to the PCB.

author: helge
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2016, 06:56:16 pm
content: the caps areMaxwell10F 2.7V Ultracaps and they all come in radial packages. There is only one other brand that I know of,Nesscapand it's the same here.mounting these caps by the leads is not recommended; they're made of an aluminium alloy which does not have a fatigue limit and will crack sooner or later. The manufacturer recommendation is to glue the darn cylinder down by its can but then at least Maxwell does not specify a high strength adhesive to do so.To make matters worse, we're not talking about the ordinary bypass cap that's flapping in the breeze as Dave likes to put it fittingly but they're being shaken so hard that I've also seen ferrite magnetics being ripped of the PCB. I'm afraid the leads alone won't be up to that challenge.

author: helge
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2016, 08:56:48 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/manufacture/looking-for-glue-to-keep-capacitors-on-the-pcb/also not really getting to a definitive decision?What about this stuff: structural acrylic adhesiveshttp://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Promotions/Structural-Acrylic-Adhesives/
Comments invited. Aldi Huxley branded USB microphone. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2016, 02:06:55 am
content: /.

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2016, 02:37:00 am
content: It is likely just another generic commodity USB mic out of a nameless Chinese factory.It happens to have that name on it this week. Is there anything special about it?It appears to be an orphan. Even Google can't find any for sale. I wouldn't by one.We would consider mics with a diaphragm 3x that size as "large".But there are lots of small diaphragm capsules being sold in large-looking shells.That is because people buy microphones based on what they look like rather than how they perform.Whether a LDC (large-diaphragm condenser) or an SDC would suit your application better depends on your application (not revealed here).It is not clear how either gain or mute would help with computer fan noise or distance.Gain and mute are typically handled in the recording software.And distance is done with a USB extension cable.

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2016, 02:56:10 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on February 03, 2016, 02:06:55 amIt depends on the application. Larger diaphragms tend to work better for things like voice. Most mics designed for musical instruments, especially powerful instruments, tend to have smaller diaphragms. Those small diaphragm instrument mics really aren't that bad for voice, though. They just aren't optimised for it.

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2016, 10:22:03 pm
content: A larger element may give you better low frequency response but even tiny condenser mikes can have really good LF response if mounted in a way that preserves it. And if the electronics doesnt filter it out..
Source for used semi-rigid coax with SMA (odd ends)? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2016, 04:06:54 pm
content: I want to make some small projects like probes and loops, etc, that really need to be made with semi-rigid coax to not be totally half assed, but its always been my perception that getting into semi-rigid is expensive.But I am not some kind of scientist looking for absolute perfection. I am not looking to do work with microwaves presently or need the absolute best performance, I just want to be able to make some small antennas and pickup loops that aren't floppy for picking up EMI, experimenting with RF and so on.Is there any place I can buy maybe used or surplus odds and ends of semi-rigid using cables? Other people's garbage.Typically they will be short and only one end is going to need the connector.

author: retrolefty
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2016, 04:32:10 pm
content: Have you checked E-bay?http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=semi-rigid+coax&_sop=10

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2016, 11:38:37 pm
content: QuoteAwesome - thank you!!! problem solved.No, I had not seen that the last time I went looking for coax on ebay. Which was a long time ago.

author: Stray Electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2016, 03:30:43 am
content: Quote from: cdev on January 27, 2016, 04:06:54 pmA LOT of stuff like that shows up at hamfests around here. I have a whole tote bin full.

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2016, 05:44:34 pm
content: Thank you! That's good to know.

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 05, 2016, 06:19:00 pm
content: Quote from: Stray Electron on February 05, 2016, 03:30:43 amHiA lot of it shows up *inside* gear abandoned at the end of ham fests. Grabbing old gear and salvaging the parts is a very cost effective way to do some of this.Bob

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2016, 06:36:01 pm
content: be careful with some of the Chinese SMAs, the centre conductions should be hard, springy BeCu, but instead it's soft brittle brass
Anyone familiar with Callfire Cloud Call Center? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 06:24:35 pm
content: Yeah, everyone gets dragged into volunteer one time or another.The organization is set up with "Callfire Cloud Call Center". I am not sure what a "call center volunteer" will need (equipment wise) to actually do the call. Right now, they have other volunteers who has no idea what a "call center volunteer" will need to make calls for them.Callfire's website illustrations shows just a smart phone, no laptop. Not sure if it requires certain kind of phone: WIFI vs Landline vs Internet enabled phone...Thanks for any info you can give...Rick

author: sstjohn88
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 06, 2016, 08:02:21 pm
content: Hi Rick!I think I can help with this question. To start using CallFire's Cloud Call Center, you will need: a laptop or tablet or desktop with an internet connection, and a phone. You can use a landline, VoIP such as Skype, or your cell phone.You should receive an email from an administrator at the candidate's office including an invitation link to create a CallFire account. In some cases, they may also include the log in and password for you. Simply fill out the registration form and click the green register button. Once you're logged in, you'll see calling campaign(s) that you've been assigned to. Click on the 'Join Campaign' button and you'll receive a call to the phone number you entered on the registration form. When you pick up and say hello, you'll be connected to the CallFire Cloud Call Center (dialer) and should hear, "You are now connected." Click on the Green "Begin Dialing" button in the upper right corner of your screen and the CallFire system will start making calls for you. It's just that simple. For additional details, please see the attached quick start guide, complete with screen shots so you'll know exactly what to do when you go to CallFire.The techies at CallFire are also available to walk you through this process. Give them a call if you're still stuck: 877-987-3473, 6am to 6pm Pacific Monday through Friday, or 8am to 12pm Pacific on Saturdays.Best!Sharron

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 07, 2016, 12:27:51 am
content: That is exactly what I wanted to know.Thanks!

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 07, 2016, 12:44:55 am
content: Nowthatis good tech support! You ask on a random forum and they register and help you out. Amazing.
Help Finding Shelving Brackets for Workbench - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: asg32000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 07:41:27 pm
content: I recently purchased a used workbench with two upright rails, each rail having twin slits every inch or so that are 1/2" apart. I'm trying to buy some brackets that I can use to support a couple shelves, but I'm having difficulty finding a bracket that fits my rails. The standard Rubbermaid FastTrack ones from Home Depot don't fit (the bracket hooks are properly spaced, but they are too tall). They had a different one at Home Depot, but it didn't fit right either (it was really close, but the hooks were too close together!).Can anyone recommend a place where I can look for some brackets that are more likely to fit? Does anyone have any general recommendations for shelving brackets?

author: asg32000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 08:01:13 pm
content: It looks a lot like this one:http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/work-benches/systems/fix-height-workbenches/-motor-station-w-m48m36m30-or-m20-upright-bays-bn-work-surface-40-inch-w-x-30-inch-dexcept that it is 40"x24", not 40"x30".

author: asg32000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 09:17:40 pm
content: After MUCH searching, I think I found the shelf I want. But... HOW can they justify charging near $200 for a shelf??? This is insane!https://octopart.com/e816758-35-sovella-60829941

author: asg32000
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 09:47:45 pm
content: Ok - I'm answering all my own questions... but here I go anyway. I found a much cheaper alternative:https://octopart.com/852770-35-sovella-60829636It is the same dimensions, but has a little lip on the back and it has a lower weight rating (110 lbs vs 175 lbs - still a lot!). How could it be so much cheaper? Anyone have any ideas?

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 01:50:36 am
content: Shelving options for a non generic system brought from a specialist store will always be expensive.

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 07:29:23 pm
content: No way to say for sure without seeing exactly what you have, but I'd be looking at modifying the bench to use the Rubbermaid parts from Home Depot. The Rubbermaid type are meant to be wall mounted and too flimsy for standalone use, but maybe you could bolt some to the front of the existing uprights.

author: HAL-42b
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 07:47:09 pm
content: I have seen shelving systems by the same manufacturer which look exactly the same but are deliberately designed to be incompatible with each other.These bastardsSold in Bauhaus have rails which are either 35mm 'home' or 50mm 'profi' series and none of the attachments fit the other system. Even worse, they don't mention this anywhere. Only found out after buying accessories and discovering that they are incompatible with the rails I have installed at home. As you might expect that accessory is only available for the other system.This is what lack of standardization does.
cable shears repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2016, 12:14:37 am
content: I have two nice swanstrom shears, that i would like to repair. the design is similar to klein tools cable shears, with the following pivot jointhttp://www.hyperclaw.com/pic/products/vde_bentnose.jpgfortunatly the pivot joint is made of a copper/brass material.do you think that getting the brass/copper pivot hot with a micro torch and deforming with a solid hit will work to get rid of looseness?
Ersa icon nano vs GOOT RX 802AS - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Wolfram.Chrome
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 01:03:38 pm
content: delete this thread

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 03:07:08 pm
content: What do you mean by "sucks with fine tips"?I have the Nano for several years now and no problems, it works great. Fine tips and SMD soldering are just fine with it. I am using leaded solder, though.On the other hand, if you use a teeensy conical tip for normal soldering, even the most expensive station will "suck" - the fine conical tips simply don't transfer enough heat to make a good joint in most cases. Dave has made several videos on this.My guess is that those "guys around internet" have bought the finest conical tip for the ERSA they could get their hands on thinking it is necessary for SMD work and then were surprised that it actually isn't that great - because it isthe wrong tool for the job. I am soldering SMDs, even fine 0.5mm ones using a regular chisel tip (the one the station came with - about 2.5mm wide) and switching to a small conical one only for things like resistors or caps in difficult to access areas where a chisel is unwieldy (and the worse heat transfer doesn't matter because I am heating only a tiny pad).The only peeve I have with the Nano is the cable to the wand. It is not the nice soft silicon one that even my cheap-ass Solomon station has. However, that is a minor problem at best.ERSA is a well known German brand, you can safely buy the station without worrying about your money. Moreover, the Nano is a continuation of their i-Con series of stations, they actually use the same wands. It is a known quantity and well tested. I am actually surprised at the price, I have bought my Nano for more than the Goot costs.
Question re. Weller WP/WXP 200 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Lomax
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 10:57:57 am
content: I would be grateful if someone who has one of these irons could tell me what the diameter of the black plastic collar at the front of the handle is? It would also be good to know the widest diameter of the handle (the finger stop just behind the collar) - I'm trying to figure out if it would fit a stand I have...
Quick look at an industrial battery charger - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: thefamilyman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 26, 2016, 11:23:28 pm
content: Just a few pictures of an industrial 24V battery charger that's designed to run 24/7 keeping batteries floated.we're replacing a whole lot of cheap Chinese ones in our generators that are starting to fail with these Taiwanese ones.we have dealt with Kutai before with some of their ATS switches and their products seem very nice.all caps are Nippon Chemicon 105C

author: Zeecue
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2016, 08:53:27 am
content: Looks nice, good hv/lv separation and temperature control. But I noticed that the ground pin don't look like its connected to anything ? It should atleast be connected to the chassis to avoid electric shock to the users and to divert any static electric to ground instead of maybe zapping thru to the inside electronics.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2016, 11:58:04 am
content: Looks like a plastic chassis, no? Connecting it to ground would have no effect whatsoever.
Agilent U1232A repair - help needed - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: s57aw
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2016, 04:15:58 pm
content: Hi,My Agilent U1232A worked perfectly for few years but I have made a mistake yesterday. I have touched high voltage (about 3kv) yesterday with black (COM) probe only. There was a spike and DMM doesn't work anymore. It shows unrealistic numbers, i.e. 54Mohm when I select resistance or 0.23A when DC current is selected etc... Any idea about that? Are there any specific parts to check or it is time to look for new one... I do not have any schematics about this meter.Thanks,Robert

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 12:02:26 am
content: Quote from: s57aw on February 01, 2016, 04:15:58 pmClear focused pictures of the pcb (both sides) will help us help you.Your gas discharge tube might be fried? It should read infinite resistance with another meter. If it doesn't read infinite resistance, remove it and see if the meter works.Another thing to check are your PTC (should be around 1k ohm).See this recent video

author: s57aw
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 02, 2016, 07:33:57 am
content: Thanks a lot for you input..I will check discharge tubes resistance in the evening, it looks there are two of those.Will check PTC but I need to locate it first.Robert
Hakko 850 Hot Air Rework Rejuvenation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2016, 11:10:24 pm
content: Found a well-used, cheap Hakko 850 that appears to be the same version as the one in this thread:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hakko-850-hot-air-rework-station/. I can take pictures of this one if that would help.Both the heater and air work, but the air pressure is really weak in comparison to an Aoyue Int852A+. Ratings say the Hakko pumps 28 liters per minute, and the Aoyue only 23 liters per minute. The Hakko did manage to desolder some SMT parts, but even at full throttle and with a narrow tip, there was little danger of blowing them away.The pump (B1451) is powered directly from AC, controlled by a NEC AC03F triac. The triac is good, according to the troubleshooting guide. (Expected because the pump ran.) The fan control potentiometer also measures okay (a 100K pot). There are no obvious air leaks anywhere, and the pump gets louder when those internal hoses are pinched.It's hard to see where the air intake is, or if there is a filter. There is a 1/4" opening on the underside of the white tank in this picture from that other thread:.It still pumps air when that hole is covered, so if it is an intake, there are leaks elsewhere.Is there an easy way to measure airflow without a special meter?The other thread says not to open the pump unless you have replacement seals. Are those gaskets or o-rings or something else? Is that something I can make or find somewhere?

author: wblock
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 11:28:39 pm
content: Following up. There do not seem to be any repair parts or even pictures of this pump on the web, so here goes. This pump has diaphragms on each end, and the two ends are identical. The white tank on top appears to be a muffler. Removing the endcaps reveals a round plastic piece with two rubber discs that act as check valves. There is a rubber gasket inside the end cap and a larger one under the check valve piece. These are 1mm rubber. Cutting replacements for these should not be too hard. The rubber check valve discs might be more difficult. They were about .7mm thick, and the flexibility might be important for them to work correctly. Under the check valve piece is a diaphragm. This is held onto the motor/solenoid with a small nut with both a lock washer and thread lock compound. The diaphragm is made of several pieces, a molded rim, a thin disc, and some reinforcement at the center.The output end on this particular pump was fine. Taking apart the input side showed that the rim of the diaphragm was out of place, and this was due to a molding flaw in the housing. When it was originally assembled, the diaphragm rim had not been fully pressed into place. I sanded that edge down some and also rotated the diaphragm 180 degrees. There were slight dust marks on the diaphragm here, so I think this was the leak.All the removed plastic and rubber pieces were washed with soap and water, dried, then reassembled. A quick test, and the pump is now much more powerful.
Phantom V5 high-speed camera teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tesla500
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 08:02:50 pm
content: Here's a teardown of a Vision Research Phantom V5 high speed camera from around 2001.This camera can record 1024x1024 at 1000fps (1Gpx/sec), into 1GB of RAM, which was quite a large amount when this was released in 2001. Not sure of the original sell price, but I'd imagine the high five figures.Product pagefrom the manufacturer's website
Help with Hakko 707 desoldering: make my own valve plate? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ModemJunki
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2013, 02:05:11 am
content: Hi all,Does anyone know what material the valve plate in an old Hakko 707 desoldering station is made from? I'd like to have a go at making my own in the proper size. For the reason why, read on...I found the 707 in the rubbish bin at work. I brought it home an promptly realized that I can't live without a desoldering station.After using it for a few days to harvest some parts from various things, it stopped providing vacuum. After a teardown, I saw the valve plate had turned to wax (it disintegrated). It was then that I found that no valve plates were available for the pump.So I bought a valve plate for a different Hakko unit - it's much smaller in diameter - cut it in half, and bodged it between the fixing plate and the pump head so that the flaps were in the right spots. Now it works again, and better than when I started.Still I'd like to make one the proper size.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2014, 02:50:21 am
content: Well it's been a while, but I had the exact same issue and I made my own replacement part with a silicone kitchen mat and a sharp X-Acto #11...As a matter of fact I made several spares if you want one.

author: flanneltuba
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 02:51:50 am
content: I made one out of a strip from an old bicycle inner tube.I also then found that I could find them for sale by Googling: "Hakko A1014 valve plate"

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 04:04:32 am
content: Quote from: flanneltuba on January 29, 2016, 02:51:50 amThe A1014 valve plate is much too small for the 707... I guess that's what ModemJunki used, but it's not ideal.
plizers (tweezers meet pliers) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2016, 12:46:16 am
content: Has anyone ever used this tool before?http://www.swanstromtools.com/stweez.htmI am very tempted to buy some..

author: janekm
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 28, 2016, 01:39:55 am
content: I can't imagine having good control with one of those... I need the "finger-tip" control of regular tweezers to accurately place parts, I think. I find pliers frustrating in that respect at the best of times (placing .1" components, not 0402!).

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2016, 05:37:29 am
content: I'm sure they're great for people with arthritis or otherwise have poor dexterity of the digits.When I clicked on it, I immediately thought of my own favorite pair of pliers at my bench. It is the tiny but sturdy plier head taken out of a Gerber clutch brazed to a couple lengths of curved 1/4" mild steel rods for a handle. It's not for handling tiny things with a full grip. It's for applying huge amounts of pressure and torque to a tiny area and/or in tight spots with accuracy. (And it's handy for tightening/loosening fasteners). That doesn't appear to be the idea behind the plizers in OP's link, with their breezy thin jaws.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2016, 10:18:19 am
content: Don't see the point - you don't need the force from plier handles for tweezer-scale work, and tweezers give better control.

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 28, 2016, 11:26:56 am
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on January 28, 2016, 10:18:19 amThat was my first thought as well.

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 02:04:06 am
content: i bought them anyway, along with like 10 different kinds of swanstrom tweezers

author: JGAN
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 29, 2016, 10:52:02 am
content: Quote from: mikeselectricstuff on January 28, 2016, 10:18:19 amI concur.
JBC handpiece connector type - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: August
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2016, 09:40:01 am
content: I own a JBC AD2200 soldering station, which I like very much. I just bought a 2010 "micro" handpiece for it on Ebay, but it is missing the original connector. I guess Hirose, but what type? Can someone point me to a brand and type for this, so I can fix it and use it on my station? Thanks.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2016, 01:47:14 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/jbc-soldering-iron-stand-wiring/

author: August
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2016, 02:05:44 pm
content: Thank you! Hirose RPC1 it is.
Grandma's FM radio with RDS - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2016, 11:20:19 pm
content: Hello, which fm radio with RDS do you prefer?Grundig Music 81orPanasonic RF-U300?I prefer the Panasonic, but it has no lcd backlight and you need six LR14 1,5V cells for stations memory backup.I want the radio to be usable for 80+ years old people. They are able to use a common LCD TV set. No Alzheimer disease has appeared.http://www.amazon.co.uk/Grundig-Music-81-GRR2600-Portable/dp/B00AZWR5JMhttp://www.grundig.de/en/portable-audio-devices/portable-radios/music-81/http://www.amazon.de/Panasonic-RF-U300EG-K-Tragbares-Radio-schwarz/dp/B000OF3IEQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452899840&sr=8-1&keywords=Panasonic+RF-U+300+EG-K+schwarzhttp://www.panasonic.com/de/consumer/home-entertainment/hifi-audio/cd-radio-recorder/rf-u300.html

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2016, 11:48:30 pm
content: Depends very much on the 80 year old in question! My mother is approaching 80 and is quite rational and able to figure things out for herself, however, she is afraid of "breaking" technological stuff. Rotating volume controls and tuning are ok; push-buttons and menus (i.e. anything with a hint of built-in intelligence) are definitely not ok. That's probably not much help!Knobs and switches with single, labelled function are ok.Anything that requires the grandkids to fathom it is not ok

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2016, 11:19:58 pm
content: So I bought thePanasonic RF-U300but I hat to do a hack described here.http://nice.kaze.com/rf-u350_no2.htmlI soldered theD905diode to its position. I wonder why the manufacturer left it empty.Any opinions? Do they place D905 only for Japanese market or something?Now there is memory and clock backup even if the ac cord is plugged into the radio.

author: Hydrawerk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2016, 11:27:39 pm
content: Now the diode D905 is soldered. Some videos here:
NTHDSD: New Thru-Hole Desoldering Station Day - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: OilsFan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 11:49:01 pm
content: So I just got this Black Jack Solder Werks BK4000 desoldering station. Couldn't find much about it online but it was $129 delivered from Circuit Specialists. I lifted another pad on a board I was trying to repair and I'm just done with that. Doesn't happen often but when it does it seems like it's in the worst place ever!I hope it works good. Anybody own or use one of these?

author: BrotherJavafiend
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 16, 2015, 03:50:04 am
content: I was wondering how this is working for you? Did it perform as expected?

author: OilsFan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2016, 10:08:12 am
content: Sorry, been away from the forum for a while but yeah it works great. You must keep it clean though. Empty out the old solder and such.
Waterproof through panel connectors? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nsled
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 05:47:12 am
content: Something I'm having a great deal of trouble finding. I'm looking for a simple waterproof socket and connector that can be panel mounted. Seems trivial but damned if I can find anything.This is the best I can findhttp://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-2-pin-panel-mounted-socket-M14-waterproof-electrical-connector-IP68-waterproof-cable-connector/2046730646.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.264.2EazjoBut is expensive and a bit excessive, I'm only looking for low amp 12v.Anyone have any idea where such a thing can be sourced?

author: rich
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2016, 04:57:57 pm
content: I was going to suggest the Bulgin Buccaneer 400 series as I've been looking at them to use in a project but then I price checked your link and if I read correctly it's offering 10 pairs of connectors for 35USD which seems a bargain to me.

author: Julez
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2016, 08:07:45 pm
content: Try boat-related stores. My google-fu brought me here:http://www.segelladen.de/Inhalt-Elektrik-Zubehoer/stecker.htmAlso, this product looks nice at €4:http://www.ebay.de/itm/Einbau-Steckverbindung-Einbaustecker-Borddurchfuhrung-Steckdose-Wasserdicht/361156875824?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D515bc83d339a401799b54d886525ae95%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D24%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D330998563422

author: HAL-42b
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2016, 08:33:31 pm
content: Waterproof bulkhead connectors are not cheap.This guy had a hard time sourcing them for the high pressures he wants and had to come up with his own. Took quite a few tries to get it right.

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2016, 08:41:31 pm
content: http://www.switchcraft.com/Category.aspx?Parent=944I am considering these for a project.

author: artag
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2016, 10:02:44 pm
content: Deutsch Autosport connectors are pretty much the standard in motorsport. They're very similar to milspec olive-green connectors but cheaper and lighter. Still far from cheap though, as is the tooling and the heatshrink boots you need to protect the wiring properly.https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloads/wiring_pdfs/deutsch_autosport_connectors.pdf
B3603 Buck Converter grounding? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: joeblow
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 07, 2016, 06:23:01 pm
content: Good morning,My question is should the OUT- and IN- screw terminals be kept isolated? Or, in other words, they should -not- be on a common ground?Examining the schematic at:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/b3603-dcdc-buck-converter-mini-review-and-how-the-set-key-could-be-fatal/?action=dlattach;attach=137507;image(btw, that must have taken a lot of work to do. Props and appreciation).it looks like the OUT- and IN- are not connected on the board. Is this correct?Thanks!

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2016, 06:32:58 pm
content: The trouble with these, many amp and power meters is they measure current in the negative leg. There is a current shunt, noted in the schematic, between the neg in and out pins.

author: joeblow
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 07, 2016, 06:50:49 pm
content: Yeah, I've noticed that about shunts in the negative (grounding) path. Annoying as all getout. Now I'm sure there's a reasonable technical reason for that, but there's no good universal reason that I know of that the shunt has to be connected directly to a rail; that should be left to the discretion of the user. Ground should be ground. Not 75mV (or whatever) 'above' or 'below' ground. That's the reason I don't by the 'combo' volt-ammeters anymore. /rant off.

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2016, 03:30:50 am
content: Quote from: joeblow on January 07, 2016, 06:50:49 pmThe current sense resistor is connected below output-groundbecause the B3603 so asso that the B3603's MCU (sitting lower still at input-ground) can easily measure voltage of the current sense. If it is to do hi-sense, more electronics will have to be implemented increasing cost.If you forgo the current-limit, you can exercise "user discretion" and connect output-ground to the input ground (thus bypassing/shorting the current sense resistor). The B3603 should work with it always showing 0mA out and no current control.EDIT: stumbled back into this note and noticed some typos there. Corrected.
Any comment on the TekPower TP3005DM Linear DC power supply? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: +sync
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2016, 10:03:21 am
content: Hello everyone,I intend on purchasing thehttp://www.amazon.com/TekPower-TP3005DM-Linear-Adjustable-Digital/dp/B00L2OQOOE• DC 30V 5A• Rather inexpensive• No noisy fan (could be a hot drawback... but according to comments that's ok)• The 11 comments are rather positiveHowever, the comments are not very informative - not enough comments, no real deep "feelings" about the device.Any one has any experience with Tekpower or this/similar device?
Port protectors? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: knotlogic
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2016, 08:33:51 am
content: So I'm wondering if such products exist, or if people have their own solutions for this: But has anyone faced the issue of trying to protect the ports on their text equipment from oxidation? I live in the tropics (and near the sea to boot!) and so have to deal with a high humidity environment. Naturally that's not good for exposed metal surfaces.What I was hoping to find is some kind of cover that can be fitted to the various ports on equipment - BNC terminals, DB-9 connectors, banana jacks, etc etc. Ideally I'd just have a air conditioned room to store everything in, but since this is my personal stuff stored at home, I can't justify the electricity bill.Or is there another solution I could be looking at?

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2016, 09:07:25 am
content: Yes, computer port protectors exist. They are usually molded from silicone rubber.http://www.radtech.com/products/portectorzFor MIL-type connectors and BNCs, the usual protection are Caplugs.https://www.caplugs.com/content/electronics.htmlThere are also things called socket savers that are simple male-female pass through adapters. You would leave them permanently connected to your equipment, and the wear from connecting and disconnecting accessories is confined to the adapter. When it breaks you just chuck it and install a new one.If you are surrounded by salty humid air these may not be enough. I would look into contact protectants like PPE and ProGold.
IFR/Aeroflex GPS simulator - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Short Circuit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2012, 02:45:50 pm
content: Hi, Here are a coupole of pictures from my latest eBay aquisition, a bit of gear that you don't see everyday.An IFR GPS-101 GPS simulator. Was listed as for parts or not working, but description said it was just the battery not charging.So I figured that would be fixable and did an offer. The simulator is to be used for various GPS enabled PCB tests.Having an exactly defined GPS signal allows for much more control during test, especially signal levels. Usually thesekind of devices run into the 5-digit price range, which is sort of out-of-range for a small business like mine. I got this at $2000, so quite a bargain

author: Short Circuit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2012, 02:47:53 pm
content: Closeup of the RF gut

author: Short Circuit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 30, 2012, 02:50:17 pm
content: Very old-skool power supply and charger system.(Which appears to be working fine, just does not start when the battery is dead-flat.Using a fresh battery, it seems to charge fine.)

author: Costin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 07, 2016, 02:51:59 pm
content: Hi, i have the same problem!Can you help me with some advices?Regards,Costin

author: Short Circuit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2016, 12:34:08 am
content: Have you checked and possibly replaced the internal lead-acid battery pack?
Which code is this? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Redwan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2016, 08:37:32 am
content: Hello!I want to know, what is code is called? At first, I thought, It would be QR code, but the pattern doesn't match. I have found this on a mobile phone battery.It would be great if anyone help me out.Thanks in advance.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2016, 09:09:11 am
content: Data Matrix Code?https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Data_MatrixDidn't see it before you posted this so I was curious and looked it upEdit: seems to be a 24x24 variant of that codeCODEDATAMATRIX24X24Part of ECC 200http://www.pepperl-fuchs.com/global/en/6404.htm

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2016, 09:25:04 am
content: heh cool, my barcode app can read that type of barcode
B&B Electronics UHR304 Isolated USB Hub teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 07, 2016, 07:41:09 pm
content: After killing two of my desktop PC during development I wanted to be more careful with the remaining few. I considered rolling my own hub with 4 isolated downstream ports. But after a quick search for the parts I'd need, such as a few USB isolator IC's, a few 3W dc/dc converters and a USB hub ic with all the mechanical parts required to make it robust, it was going to be an expensive project.I went looking for USB hubs, and the only one to be for sale in Europe without "call-us" price was the B&B Electronics UHR304. I couldn't find any info regarding what was inside, and I was afraid I'd buy an cheap USB hub in a fancy metal enclosure. But I wanted to save my precious USB 3.0 ports on my pc, so I bought one.Since there are no teardown images to be found online to estimate the quality, here they are! (link below)I was surprised by the amount of components inside, sure looks high quality. Some of the features are:Significant TVS diodes on the power supply inputs.Common mode filter on power input and USB downstream data.The screws connect to earth via 0 ohm resistors.Reverse polarity protection for the DC barrel.Analog Devices ADUM4160 USB 1.1 Isolator for the upstream port (no power).Texas Instruments LM22676 buck converter.National Semiconductor LM2937 LDO for the logic, I guess.Micrel MIC2026 power switchers with overload protection.ST USBLC6-2SC6 ESD protection on all USB ports.And last but not least, an SMSC (microchip) USB2514Bi USB Hub Controller protection on all USB ports.I paid €130 on eBay for a new one, which is a lot for "just a USB Hub". But considering that if I made my own, which would cost over 300 and would have almost identical parts in it with a less fancy enclosure, I sure am happy to know that my USB ports now remain safe from all the accidents that happen downstream on my bench, that would normally fry a USB port.I know the ADUM4160 is available in small USB Isolated sticks for €50, but these do not offer the full 2.5W of power delivery, which limits development to self-powered devices, unless I make a power insertion cable/board. They also don't mount on the desk as fancy as this does.Teardown photos:https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3a3odx672ieoklq/AABInv4sK-aqY6ADNYoZhOoFa?preview=USB+Hub+B%26B+Electronics+UHR304+(1).jpgLink to the manufacturor:http://www.bb-elec.com/Products/USB-Connectivity/USB-2-0-Hubs/Industrial-Grade-USB-Hubs.aspxLet this be a useful "review"-ish topic. Please share any other high-quality (isolated) USB hubs you know about.
IR Soldering station for BGA work - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ali_asadzadeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 20, 2015, 01:45:05 pm
content: Hi,I have done several PCB's with BGA FPGA's on them, I managed to do the prototypes by sending the job to other company's, but recently my BGA works has gone fare crazy,So I need to be able to do prototypes myself fast, I heard the easy way is by using IR Soldering stations something like thishttp://www.ebay.com/itm/T870A-Rework-Station-BGA-IRDA-Welder-Infrared-Heating-For-Computer-Laptop-/171047766868Is it a good way to enter BGA word myself,Do you suggest any model or any video tutorials?

author: ali_asadzadeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2015, 02:26:09 pm
content: Has anybody used them? would you please share your experiences.

author: Deusjevoo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 09, 2016, 12:17:47 am
content: Hi, sorry for the late answer, busy period.What type of BGAs you rework?Don't have that station, but I know it's a pretty poor performer.Wouldn't go for it.Might be usable on small pcbs, but even then...Will be very hard to do larger pcbs and bgas.For larger boards, surely with much copper planes a large preheater is very important.On a larger station you can also do small part.Give some more info and pictures maybe?Using IR myself for years now with good success. Nothing H(ot) A(ir) can do my IR can't either.But surely look at H(ot) A(ir) too.It has better controllabilty, many prefer it.