Simple Room Lab Setup (beginner) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ronniegogs
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2014, 09:06:38 am
content: Hi I am a new member who came upon this website from Dave's videos on Youtube while looking for multimeters and soldering iron stationsI am finally setting up a simple lab for my projects. I am currently in SingaporeBackground : A have a bachelor in Electrical and Electronics degree but I never really worked as an core engineer as I went into SAP consultancy and planning. So I become quite distant with from my engineering days. But I was always interested and built electronics projects and simple college competition robots back in engineering days. Now I really want to get back in the scene.I am an avid photographer, RC hobbyist (mainly helicopters and nitro cars) and occasionally play my Les Paul as well. So hoping that by getting back into electronics I can boost up all these hobbies.Current Projects in mind1) Simple Kits to begin with such as timers, relay triggers, servo drivers2) Lab Bench power supply3) Home automation using Rasberry Pi4) Automated Time lapse slider for my camera5) Guitar Tube amplifierBack to main topic. I am building a simple workshop setup in my room/bedroom/computer roomSaw Dave's video and decided I needed to setup proper and since I am a kid no more I can afford better thingsThings I already have1) Rotary2) Dewalt cordless drill3) Wireless power screwdriver4) Heat-gun5) DC battery charger (SkyRC touch screen)6) Loads of tools for my RC hobbyFirst buyA Hakko FX888D. After lot of research on stations and irons I finally decided to get a good proper station which can last me for years. Found a local dealer and got one for around 155 USD which is quite a good deal considering element14 prices and other prices. Still don't get why a US version costs so less.What I plan to get next. Most from Dave's video above1) Multimeters. 2 at least with PC connectivity. Looking at UNI-T UT61E models as I am still a hobbyist. Or maybe one UNI-T and one Fluke.2) DC bench power supply : Will build one or get a cheap one and modify to suit my needs3) Oscilloscope : Undecided4) Signal Generator : Undecided .. Should I build one of kits available5) Bread board6) Develoment boards : Arduino and Rasberry Pi6) Other tools7) Fire ExtinguisherQuestions :DC bench power supplyShould I build one myself. Any good projects you would recommend.I like this DIY project :http://www.microsyl.com/index.php/2010/03/31/bench-power-supply-0-25v-0-5amp/OscilloscopeI really dont think I need one right now but I will like a mixed signal one as need arises. But I am going to Hongkong at end of month so maybe I land a good one there.Signal GeneratorWhat should I get really if you are not sure about the product. Should I try building one. Any schematics you would like to recommend.Any other recommendationsWill post pics of my progress as I go.

author: ronniegogs
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 12, 2014, 05:32:04 pm
content: Thanks for your inputs. Well I am just setting it up on a simple Ikea table for now. With a Ikea shelf on top for light things.For multimeter I am considering Agilent U1242B and maybe a UNI-T UT61EI have been having a look at logic analysers and will probably get one when I reach a part of my project when I feel I need one. Otherwise it may just be a waste.

author: TimNJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2014, 11:03:42 pm
content: I think wetendto put a lot of emphasis on good multimeters here, but truthfully for the majority of stuff you do, you can get away with <$50 meters, probably even cheaper. I honestly wouldn't spend your money on an Agilent or Fluke even if they are good products. You rarely need more than a few digits of accuracy.Now, a good scope is probably even more useful. I have a Tektronix 465M, which is about 1975 vintage but works well. Personally, I'd probably go with a slightly newer Tek analog scope, As KC0PPH said a the 2465B (or similar) are great scopes and there are usually a few on eBay for cheap enough.As for power supplies, you definitely want a power supply with an adjustable current limit. People often overlook this, but when you hook up your circuit for the first time, you want to be able to set the maximum supply current so you don't fry the crap out of your project. Again, you can buy a used one off eBay. HP 621x series are old classics. (I have an 6214A). But there's a lot of options out there.You'll want a half decent function generator also. It's cool to put together kits and stuff, but some test equipment kits are less than par. I'd go with (again) a used one from a reputable brand. A few megahertz is probably enough to start.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2014, 02:35:33 am
content: Couple of meters would be good. Exactly what, will depend on you. As mentioned, if you're doing LVDC, you don't need to go crazy as high accuracy isn't usually needed. One good one is nice though (proper protections there for AC work when you have the occasion), and one that can data log (easy to get both in the same meter, and still not go crazy). As per brands, Uni-T and DigiTek would be worth considering on the low end (say no more than the 60USD range, anything over, and you'd want to take a serious look at Brymen IMHO).As per a starter scope, I'd go with a Tek 22xx or 24xx analog model (produced from '82 - '96, depending on the model). The 2225 would get you started w/ 2ch. @ 50MHz, and can go up to the 2467B (4ch. @ 400MHz). Older units, such as the 475 & previous, I'm less inclined to recommend due to CRT age/wear, and the difficulty in getting good parts (and reasonably priced). Maybe if you can buy in-person and test it out thoroughly, a '70's and older scope may be worth buying at the right price. YMMV.If you're set on a DSO, then a Rigol 1052E is well tested (2ch.), and hack it to 100MHz. New 4ch. models are out as well (1074Z), and start ~585USD IIRC. Skip an MSO. If you find you need a logic analyzer, then take a look at Saleae Logic (i.e. 150USD for 8ch, 300USD for 16ch) or even an Analog Devices Discovery. Tends to be cheaper this way.Not sure it helps, butTequipment.netoffers a 6% discount for EEVBlog members (call or email for the code), and they do ship internationally.PSU, I'd start with a good used unit from eBay or similar (CC & CV mode), preferably with a 10 turn pot rather than one with course and fine knobs (though these can be modified). You can build additional supplies as you need them, but I find that used will usually be cheaper (heatsinks, transformers, and an enclosures are where the costs are IME if you don't have anything suitable lying around).Good quality supplies. Don't cheap out on solder, flux, wick, tips, ... sorts of stuff, or you'll risk lots of aggravation due to damaged parts & PCBs (increased costs for replacements too).

author: ronniegogs
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2014, 05:09:51 pm
content: A senior colleague of mine who worked as a ET gave an old Fluke 87. So I am set for a single multimeter now. Maybe will pick another Agilent and I should be fully setup for in terms of multimeters.Multimeter had problem with fading displayed digits which I fixed by opening and cleaning the contacts. But the continuity buzzer does not seem to work. Any ideas on how to repair it. Its an old fluke sent to oil rigs so has no warranty here in Singapore.