Fake Hakko FX-888D vs genuine - photo comparison & short video - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ex-parrot
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 09, 2014, 10:24:31 am
content: Hi all,Thanks to those who pointed me in the right direction suggesting the Hakko iron I'd purchased was a (convincing) knockoff!I took the opportunity while I had both it and its replacement sitting here to take some external photos and a short video comparing the two.The photos are available here:https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByYSbmc9YE-cY0lCanJQM1RGclU&usp=sharingAnd a short video showing the differences out-of-the-box after power-on is here:A couple more photos of the internals etc:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/rubber-grip-on-fx-8801-(fx-888d)-too-long/Hopefully this will help anyone else in a similar situation! Overall the knockoff is pretty good, and does solder well.Some observations about things that are nicer on the genuine unit:Quality of moulding - the genuine iron has less flashing, more precise fit between partsQuality of plastic used - the fake iron is a much shinier and less hardy feeling plasticSilicone lead on genuine iron is softerGenuine sponge is bigger and betterIron stays in the holder!Buttons feel nicer

author: Sjokolade
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2014, 12:08:57 pm
content: I have a genuine 888D but my holder is different from yours, I have no grounding points on mine - must be several versions of them.

author: retiredcaps
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2014, 08:11:28 pm
content: Geez, the clone/counterfeits are getting better and better. Pretty soon you won't be able to tell based on outside appearances.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2014, 09:52:25 pm
content: Quote from: Sjokolade on December 09, 2014, 12:08:57 pmHow do you know it's genuine?

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2014, 10:17:29 pm
content: In the other thread, he broke it open and saw that the microcontroller inside is NOT the ones used on a genuine Hakko model.

author: Sjokolade
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 09, 2014, 10:44:23 pm
content: Quote from: Hero999 on December 09, 2014, 09:52:25 pmI have the R5F1007C MCU and not an Atmel or pic, I also bought it directly from the only Hakko dealer here in Norway.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2016, 03:43:54 am
content: I'm not convinced all the info on this thread is definitive, regarding fake vs genuine.The stand: My ~4 yr old analog came with the "fake holder." It doesn't have the heat shield in the solder catching area (but it's cast zinc alloy, like the rest of the holder). And it lacks the ground symbols. And it has the grey rubber wiper (which is always falling off). It also came with a slightly smaller and really hard, rough sponge. The base has a silver sticker that says 60Hz, but it is slightly different than the one in the OP's linked photos. Date code says 2012.My new 888D has the ground symbols on it, and it has the metal heatshield, (good thing, because the removeable base of the unit is molded from plastic!) And it lacks the grey rubber wiper. The sponge is larger, and it's super soft like it's made from marshmallows mixed with Unicorn hearts. But the sticker on the bottom of the station looks exactly like the "fake" in the OP's photo, AFAIC. Date code is 2015. *Edit: checked the internals, and I can't read a damn thing on the IC, but the chip is a 24 pin QFN, not a 32 pin QFP like the pictures of the Atmel in another thread.BTW, I like the "fake" version of the iron holder a little better, since the removable zinc tray doesn't have any wiggle, like the "genuine" one, and it doesn't need a flimsy heat shield.Both handpieces look and feel perfect.As far as the button not responding to "up" press in the video that is linked in the OP, you have the option to turn presets on/off, and you can even select the number of presets from 2-5. So that might be all that's going on in the video. And the warm up time and display behavior between the two seems close enough to be explainable by chance/tolerance, parts substitution, and/or differences in calibration.How do we even know that Hakko didn't change microcontrollers for various reasons? Some companies change parts and revise boards for nothing but to keep people busy. Let alone "real" reasons, like ever-shifting allegiance/relationship with suppliers, accidental overstocks of devices, discovery of minor errata, etc.Anyhow just throwing out a different hypothesis. Perhaps the all zinc alloy holders without the grounding symbols are the real deal, but Hakko redesigned parts of it at some point between 2012 and 2015 (possibly when one or more of their molds wore out). And maybe they made some with a different board and even microcontroller.The observations on the handpieces flashing and plastic feel/quality, as well as the weird grip issue are definitely of concern. But even here, molds wear out. Batches of injection molded plastics can vary, slightly. And quality control standards can vary based on the person on duty, or due to drift over years of time. And more simply, mistakes are made. Sometimes on purpose, intended to be an improvement.

author: Sjokolade
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2016, 10:57:25 pm
content: I agree with you and I posted some infohttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/genuine-vs-fake-hakko-solder-tip/msg812989/#msg812989I did send Hakko a mail regarding the real vs fake holder in this thread, my 888D came with the 'fake' holder bought from the only Hakko dealer here in Norway.Hakko support says :QuoteQuote