Lab PS for auto LED and HID work - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tknx
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 06:48:13 am
content: Hi everyone - I've done some searching and still dont have a solid answer. I am looking for a relatively inexpensive power supply that I can work on LEDs for flashlights, interior and exterior car LED lights, etc...It would be even better if it had the ability to ignite and run an HID projector (and even better yet if it could do a pair of them).I have read through pages and pages of this forum, and still don't know what would be an ideal PS for this use case.Budget? <$250.I'd consider used, but really don't have the time nor knowledge to know what a good "deal" is, not do I want to spend my time fixing an old PS.Thanks!

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 07:38:34 am
content: Personally I'd normally suggest something like this to accompany a standard bench power supply:http://www.rapidonline.com/electrical-power/rapid-switch-mode-power-supply-30v-30a-68072Most traditional bench PSUs will crap out and not start a 35W HID lamp.

author: george graves
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 07:58:31 am
content: Do you need a full adjustment range? Or You might consider something barebones if you're just needed to simulate a car's power.Something like this: 36 Amp 12 Volt 13.8V Regulated Radio Power Supply 12Vhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/36-Amp-12-Volt-13-8V-Regulated-Radio-Power-Supply-12V-/370416560359That will give you 13.8V - so that's kinda nice.If you could live with 12 volts, a computer power supply could work.Or if you really want to go cheap, a car batter, with a charger to keep it topped off, will work as well (not to mention give you all the current you could ever want - can be a bad thing, as it will gladly make wires into red hot noodles in a moment notice)

author: tknx
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 02:20:57 pm
content: I would like the flexibility to work on other stuff as well. And since I don't have a dedicated workspace and have kids, a live battery on a trickle charger seems like a bad idea.

author: tknx
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 04:18:53 pm
content: So I think everyone is right, getting an HID in there is going to be too much of a stretch.So, for LED work, mostly in car ranges (e.g., 9-14V) but preferably with the ability to expand into other projects for a while?As a bit of an aside - I've read through every post, and what is missing are clear consensus choices. Everyone pretty much goes with "go buy an HP/Agilent / Lambda etc on eBay", which, for a beginner, is ridiculously intimidating since it would require knowing the models, which ones are priced right, and finally feeling confident in the ability to troubleshoot it if something is wrong.

author: fubar.gr
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 06:34:31 pm
content: Automotive HID lamps have no problem being powered from the 12V rail of a computer PSU. They don't draw too much current either.

author: tknx
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 08:18:09 pm
content: I suppose I will just do a cheap computer PSU conversion for the HIDs.But for LED work, is there a good consensus suggestion? I'd prefer one that didn't overshoot since I'd like to be lazy and just flip the thing on and off with stuff attached (yes, i know). Obviously I want something that has some accuracy and is reasonably well built. But frankly all the teardowns do is persuade me that you can't get anything decent for under $1000 which is way out of my price range.

author: tknx
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 24, 2014, 08:23:42 pm
content: To add additional fodder - I read through loneocean's review of the Tekpower (http://amzn.com/B00HX0UYBK) - it overshoots but it seems okay otherwise.Another bargain one I've seen bandied around is the Zhaoxin triple PS (http://goo.gl/DZ79LU)... Seems like more problems in some cases...Then there are the standard Mastech / Dr. Meter HY3005Fs out there and its various rebadges.

author: Yago
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2014, 01:47:20 pm
content: Quote from: tknx on November 24, 2014, 04:18:53 pmThere is no easy answer, demands are different and so is the compromise to price ratio.It is ALWAYS worth a look at KJDS on EBay if you are in UK/Euro.http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Electrical-Test-Equipment-/92074/i.html?_saslop=1&_sasl=kjds_stuff&_sop=10He is member here and lots of us have bought from him.I got a couple of 6632B from him at great price!

author: PedroDaGr8
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2014, 05:39:28 pm
content: Quote from: fubar.gr on November 24, 2014, 06:34:31 pmDepends on the PSU, many can't handle the turn on spike of up to 200A for a few uS. The newer current limited ballasts tend to be behave much more nicely, but the older ballasts are a no-go with many PSUs. I seem to remember having to add a capacitor inline to help handle some of the initial in-rush current.

author: mazurov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2014, 07:54:37 pm
content: For LEDs you want a supply with fast current limiter. Look for used Agilent bench supplies on eBay.

author: tknx
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2014, 01:01:15 am
content: I just pulled the trigger on the Tekpower. Used PSes are all nice and good if you aren't a beginner, know what you are buying, and want to spend time noodling on your PS, but I actually want to get my projects done first...