PCB Cutter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Wolfram.Chrome
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 09:24:13 pm
content: On amazon i has found this interesting thing for cutting the paper.http://tinyurl.com/gpwcx8xSo at this point im thinking to try one of these to cut some pcb's .Time ago i've ordered an pcb for the Metcal Diy soldering stationAs you can see from the following picture,i must to cut there.Of course i can use an simple cutter and some ruler ,but did you think this tool from amazon can do the same and make it more easy?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 09:30:59 pm
content: The perforations are the "snap off" line.Place along a bench edge and snap off.Tidy up with sandpaper or a small wood (block) plane.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 09:50:57 pm
content: Quote from: Wolfram.Chrome on April 30, 2016, 09:32:46 pmIf you have concerns about it not breaking along the perf, add some scores with a sharp craft knife.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 10:01:32 pm
content: The thing you posted will not cut pcb's. It has a small steel blade in it for cutting paper.Maybe if you modified it to hold a full thickness pcb and you replaced the cutter with a carbide bit, you could use it as a guide for making score lines, or something.Or maybe just remove the blade and use it as a guide for one of those carbide tipped tile scoring tools.

author: M4trix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 10:03:34 pm
content: Wolfram.Chrome,forget about that paper cutter. There's no way you can cut 1,6mm FR-4 with that toy. What you need is a proper guillotine. Unfortunately, guillotines for PCBs are insanely expensive. I once bought this Dahle 215 guillotine. It's good for small PCBs but useless when it comes to larger sizes. You could try something like that. Btw, now I have this Chinese HS-500 guillotine. Of course, I had to construct a feeding table cuz it's pain in the arse cutting PCBs without it. It can cut boards up to 450mm. Cutting is smooth, with no rough edges and I don't even have to use a file after cutting.Dahle 215 -->and if someone is interested about HS-500 -->http://www.diytrade.com/china/pd/4009847/GUILLOTINE_SHEAR_SH05_HS_500_SH05_HS_800_SH05_HS_1000.htmlEdit: ninja'd by @KL27x

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 10:23:18 pm
content: Quote from: Wolfram.Chrome on April 30, 2016, 10:10:42 pmI quite understand, however you'll have no problems snapping the PCB you pictured with additional scoring with a knife.Many just use panel shears (tin snips) or a fine bladed hacksaw or even score and snap without the additional perforations that you have in your PCB.Guillotines are the preferred solution but as has been mentioned ....but the cost.Panelised PCB from your favourite PCB house can be perforated just as yours has been and sometimes you'll see comercial PCB's like this without any edge cleanup.For longer cuts I have used a power bench saw with a fine tooth blade and slow feeds to minimise any "chatter".Material losses are greater however with this method.

author: Wolfram.Chrome
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 10:28:40 pm
content: Quote from: tautech on April 30, 2016, 10:23:18 pmthe life is not that easy man

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 11:04:44 pm
content: Quote from: Wolfram.Chrome on April 30, 2016, 10:30:20 pmIt won't. Period.Yes I have a very similar unit that we use for paper and cardboard and there's no way it's robust enough to cut FR4.

author: Wolfram.Chrome
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 11:09:17 pm
content: this mean's that i must come back with my foots to the earth.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 11:14:21 pm
content: @WolframC, I would support Tautech re NOT cutting PCB with roller cutter, Scoring carefully ++++ with a blade, if really concerned 'snap' the PCB with supports sandwiching the PCB on either side of the break line, e.g. some waste thin plywood. A vice works really well for one side of the break line.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 11:16:02 pm
content: Quick forum search found these threads:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/manufacture/cutting-pcbs/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/cutting-pcb's/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/cutting-fibreglass-safely/

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2016, 11:17:41 pm
content: If this is a one-offBuy 2 steel rulers from your local shop.Buy some clamps from your local shop if you don't have any.Arrange the rulers either side of the line you want to cut so there is enough room only for the knife blade.Clamp it all down to your desk.Get a fresh stanley knife blade and put in your stanley knife, score down the line, with strong pressure, several times.Do the other side in the same manner.Now snap the board along the score line. You can arrange the rulers and clamps as a temporary vice along the score line to help you break it.If you will be doing this as a common occurance, then I reccommend a carbide tipped laminate cutter and a jig like this one I made.

author: Wolfram.Chrome
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2016, 12:25:41 am
content: https://youtu.be/uBkPX_QhRI0?t=162Look at minute : 2:42 that wooden clamps are very cool ,i need that one

author: M4trix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2016, 12:34:06 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on May 01, 2016, 12:07:12 amYep, that's actually what I have experienced with Dahle 215. The 1,6mm FR-4 is actually too thick for such weak paper guillotines. During the cutting, the blade is pushing the board forward and this is unavoidable unless you have augmented hands and put enough pressure on the board and stop it from sliding.That's why I made supporters on HS-500. They fix the board rock solid. No sliding anymore.

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2016, 02:31:10 am
content: QuoteThere are $300.00 "PCB cutting" machines with large, >4" circular blades that passively roll. If I understand correctly, even they cannot cut PCB; they are actually designed to separate PCBs that are already V scored. Or maybe I'm wrong.If you want the bees knees, carbide is the way to go. Manual scoring. Or power/rotary cutting action. Think router table but with a smaller carbide bit.My Dremel tool router table cuts or V scores PCB like butter. Shapes, too. Circular PCB's, curves, slots, anything I need. Cutouts in housings. Making custom bushings. Machining Delrin or HPDE or wood. And it cost me about $100.00 for the table and the Proxxon rotary tool. Of course it also took a bandsaw and about 12 hours to make it.The key is that it has to be able to tilt to 45 degrees so an endmill can cut a V-groove in the PCB. Otherwise the kerf would be too big. There are pointy carbide V-cutters, the kind some people use for machining PCB traces in the coper layer. But they wear out almost instantly in FR-4, and the chatter is terrible.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2016, 10:02:19 am
content: Power guillotine for a paper printer works best, though you will also need a good relationship with a saw sharpener to redo the blade regularly. Will last just as long trimming PCB as it does on paper, which is surprisingly abrasive. Half of the volume of regular high quality press paper ( not stuff you want to send through a laser printer, it will jam as this does not bend) is either a clay or other bulking agent.

author: mathsquid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2016, 03:24:04 pm
content: To me, the most useful tool for cutting pcbs, headers, and other things is a jeweler's saw. They are cheap and can make very precise cuts in plastic, aluminum, and harder metals.http://www.amazon.com/Jewelers-German-Adjustable-Assorted-Tension/dp/B00A8RFB5Y?ie=UTF8&keywords=jewelers%20saw&qid=1462116095&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

author: KL27x
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2016, 08:03:04 pm
content: QuoteWhen you are doing any sort of volume, you really can't beat major PCB manufacturers. They'll cut/score/tab-route your pcb's. An expensive guillotine then is of limited value to cost ratio, I think, for most of us.I think most people who use a guillotine is because they are just using the one they already have access to at work, or something. Several hundreds $$$ for a large and heavy machine that only cuts PCB's in a straight line is borderline ridiculous. Even PCB manufacturers don't use power guillotines for depanelizing, for their volumes of work. (Perhaps they use very large ones for prepping the copper pour blanks? I imagine carbide tipped table saws, though) Carbide scoring/routing tools can be had for much cheaper.A cheap, manual guillotine will cut thinner pcb, if you have that need. Not very straight, mind you. Leave the guillotines for cutting paper. "Works best" means if you want to dull someone else's guillotine that you use for free, maybe.