European Lamp in the US Stopped Working - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: mgwalker95
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2024, 02:40:15 am
content: Hi,I am having an issue with a dimmable lamp that I bought from a company in Europe (https://website-craft.s3.amazonaws.com/spec-sheets/Tradition-Montera-Table-Lamp-JH42-Spec-Sheet.pdf). When I first bought it, it worked fine for a couple of months but, the light will not come on anymore and I can't seem to figure out why it isn't working.To power the lamp in the US I am using this step up converter DT-500VA and I am using these bulbs (https://www.amazon.com/PIFUT-Equivalent-Replacement-Incandescent-Candelabra/dp/B08P6TR9CF/ref=sr_1_5_pp). I have taken the lamp apart and can't seem to figure out what the issue could be. I suspect that something is broken due to it working for a long time but all the components seem to be working that I have checked. It may be that the TRIAC is broken but I am not sure how to check that the TRIAC is working. Any help or ideas on what to check would be appreciated!Items I have checked so far:Replacing the bulbsStep up converter: Multimeter is reading 240VACvoltage Input to the PCB: 240VACChecked the input fuse and thermal fuse in the lamp: both read 0 OhmsOutput voltage with no lightbulbs(potentiometer slider High or low): 240VACOutput voltage with lightbulbs(potentiometer slider High or low): 5VACTried powering it with 120VAC, the lights still do not work.step up converter: (https://www.amazon.com/LVYUAN-Voltage-Transformer-Converter-Universal/dp/B08TBQDGCD)I have attached pictures of the PCB below.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2024, 03:41:14 am
content: Well, the lamp is specified for 50 Hz. In the USA you have 60 Hz. So there is a possibility that the circuit died as a result of prolonged use at the wrong frequency.Another possibility is a low quality product that just failed because it failed.I do not get why you linked to 110 V bulbs, when you are running the lamp through a step up converter at 240 V? Can you explain that? It is obvious that 110 V bulbs will fail on 240 V.Furthermore, when the bulbs fail, they may take out the lamp electronics too.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2024, 11:44:43 am
content: Well, you are running a dimmer in combination with a LED branded "cheap as crap" - that's very thoughtful of you. Not.Check the lamp with a regular 40W 230V bulb (no LED) first, or try to measure the output of the dimmer.If you want to use LED, use a *branded* one (Osram, Philips, Paulmann) and use one that is spec'ed as "dimmerable" (that has a good chance of working, but still might not).

author: mgwalker95
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2024, 02:52:59 pm
content: Thank you for the replies! I did realize that I picked the wrong bulbs when I looked into it so, I am getting some 240V bulbs to try. Why would the 110V bulbs have worked for a couple of months on 240V and then failed and other 110V not perform the same? Also what component would a bulb going out damage in the electronics?

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2024, 05:48:57 pm
content: If you have dimmed to 50%, that might leave enough room to survive for a bit, but it will eventually kill the LED anyway.How long they will survive might be dependent on the components used (cheap stuff might use whatever is available cheaply on the market) and/or pure luck.Likely cheap brands might even source devices from different manufacturers.

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2024, 06:44:39 pm
content: Did you happen to notice that yellowish thing marked inductor is actually a capacitor. The rectangular thing. Probably something like .15uf @ 360vac

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2024, 08:56:14 pm
content: Quote from: CaptDon on August 30, 2024, 06:44:39 pmI assume X2.But actually I see no reason why the dimmer should have failed. Maybe it even works with 110V? But sourcing a 110V bulb for an E-type-socket would be impossible, I guess...

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2024, 09:08:48 pm
content: Quote from: Haenk on August 30, 2024, 08:56:14 pmUS bulbs with a screw base are more or less interchangeable with European bulbs. More or less meaning that they are by and large, mechanically compatible.For example, I brought a 240 volt lamp from Europe, fitted a US 120 V plug, and put 120 V bulbs in it, and everything works fine.In North America, the standard base is E-26 (26 mm diameter), while in Europe the standard base is E-27 (27 mm). I suspect that to simplify manufacturing, many or most bulbs world-wide are manufactured with a 26.5 mm base diameter, to minimize factory re-tooling for different production runs.

author: mgwalker95
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2024, 09:26:21 pm
content: Sorry, I miss labeled the yellow part, it is a capacitor.I tried plugging an adapter and plugging in a US 120V dimmable light bulb and then plugged the lamp into a 120V Wall outlet and it did not work. the voltage at the output of the PCB is still low when a light bulb is plugged in.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2024, 09:33:39 pm
content: Yes, because in general, a 240 V/50 Hz appliance may not work on a 120 V/60 Hz supply.But apart from that, if the appliance was previously damaged by a bulb failure, then it may not work ever again, and will need replacing.

author: mgwalker95
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2024, 09:43:34 pm
content: I am trying to Repair the PCB if it is broken, I do not need to replace the whole thing. Hence why I am posting in the "Repair" forum.If you have any ideas on what component I should check or replace that would be great!

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2024, 09:54:11 pm
content: You used a 110 volt bulb in a 240 volt lamp. That shows a significant lack of electrical knowledge.We can now suspect that the bulb died from overvoltage, and may have shorted out due to exceeding the voltage ratings of internal bulb components. It possibly blew up one or more components inside the dimmer as a result of that. This makes the dimmer electrically unsafe and in need of disposal. Any or all of the components in the dimmer could be damaged. If you lack the knowledge to use the correct voltage bulb in a lamp, you lack the knowledge to conduct a safe repair on a mains voltage appliance.You should cut your losses, put the lamp in the recycling, and replace it.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2024, 09:58:51 pm
content: FYI, what I might do is to replace the broken dimmer circuit with a new 120 V dimmer circuit designed for the North American market, and fit the new dimmer inside the same lamp housing. it looks like a linear slide dimmer. You should be able to get one of those from a hardware store, perhaps by cannibalizing a lamp dimmer with a similar slide control.

author: Haenk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2024, 07:38:20 am
content: Quote from: IanB on August 30, 2024, 09:54:11 pmObviously, there are not a lot of parts in there. The caps are unlikely to fail, that leaves only the thermal fuse (easy to test) and the TRIAC - easy to replace. If this thing has been constructed OK, the fuse should have protected the TRIAC.Still might be a good idea to have someone check it for you, if you don't know what you are doing.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 31, 2024, 01:55:31 pm
content: Quote from: Haenk on August 31, 2024, 07:38:20 amIndeed, it's most likely a semiconductor has failed. I think it more likely that TRIAC failed to protect the fuse, rather then the other way around.Diagnostic steps would be to reverse engineer the PCB, draw out the schematic, identify the possibly failing components, replace them, and see if it starts working again.