Fnirsi DWS-200 Topic / Mod / Infos - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ceut
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 08:48:16 am
content: Hello,I have received my new Fnirsi DWS-200 Soldering Station, it seems to be a great stationI have teared it down to check and I will made some mods on it, on things I don't like:- Tip is not grounded, but there is an very easy way to do it- We have to push 2 buttons to power it on (back switch, and then the front one)- Have to remade the wires on the "hot" point (dangerous as they are in factory)- Some other mods to do...I have started to make some video I will upload later on my (very little) Youtube channel to follow the mods I will do on it.I hope this one will betheone who will replace my great TS-100 ironI have created this new topic for following, maybe some of you will be interested in-------------------------------------------------------------------------Edit from 27/07/2025: For easier reading, I edit my post to put all inside this, as this one is the first messageSo here are all my findings, and some mods I have started to do after many hoursSo this post will be very looong*** ANALYSIS ***1) TIP is grounded to DC ground2) A chinese P-Channel MosFET (120P06 / -55A -60V) send the +24V on the internal of the Handle to the Cartridge center connection.3) A chinese IC Current Sensor (CC6903SO / 20A) is used between the +24V and the Drain of the previous MosFET.4) +3.3V is sent to the Cradle on the rear banana plug, to check if the Handle is on it.5) 5-pins connector wire (I don't know the name of it):> Yellow wire: +3.3V is sent to check which type of Handle is being used+3.3V = C245 / 0V = C210To switch between them: have to disconnect and reconnect the Thermocouple wire to "reboot" the logic of the base.> Blue wire: Thermocouple , which is also used to check if the Handle is plugged> Black wire: DC GND> Red wire: MosFET outputThe last pin is not connected.6) Coilwhine from the LCD Backlight: is PWM controlled by a NPN transistor (Q5) at 3.3Khz on the +3.3V line through the R29 0_Ohm resistor.Except at full brightness where there is no more PWM (transistor fully closed) so no noise.PWM Frequency is visible on the +3.3V line, I have tried to add more capacitor, but no success for now7) AC Voltage from Earth to DC-: about 93.8V_ACfrom Earth to DC+: about 93.5V_ACAC Current Leakage from Earth to DC-: about 140µA_ACfrom Earth to DC+: about 140µA_ACAlso note that some strange ghost voltage when the switch is off at about 200V_AC8 ) With C245 Handle, I have mesured about 201W peak on the mains plug (I am on a 240VAC here)*** PSU MODS ***1) Completely rewire the PSU, with 1mm² wire.2) Put "AMP" brand white connector on the PSU, to easily remove it.3) As the Earth wire is connected anywhere: removed it (I have made a direct connection from Earth to the Black wire).4) Put Heatshrink tube everywhere to secure all connection5) Put 3M Red Tape on the USB-C PCB Board, which has the cradle detection on it (+3.3V).6) Thanks to @thm_w and the other DWS200 topic, add shielding tape on the flyback transformer, with a Polyfuse and 3M white tape to secure it(there is a power resistor not far from the transformer).7) Heatshrink on the Cradle banana thread.*** BASE STATION MODS ***1) Earth soldered directly to the black wire on the 5-pins connector, to have the shorter distance to the tipThe mod with bridging the 2 little pads will also work, but in this case: the Earth has to go up to the base, then go down from the black wire to finally go to the 5-pins connector.2) Added Auto-powerOn feature on the push-button, with a little capacitor and a schottky diode to make a short pulse at power-on.In my tests: capacitors from 1µF to 3.3µF seem to be ok, maybe it could be more or less (try other value if needed, less=no action, more=impossible to power down with the button as it restarts after the release).(Handwrite schematic on photo)I'm stuck with the LCD Backlight coilwhine: I try other things on it.I have seen that a simple 1/4w resistor works to limit the current (not much voltage on it), so I may end up with putting a little potentiometer in series with the R29 0_Ohm resistornear the Q5 NPN transistor, with a hole at the back of the base station.But, if maybe some of you could help me on this ? It would be great, thanks(I have sensitive ears)# Update 28/07/2025: I have made a hole in the back and put a 100_Ohms standard adjustable resistor: it is working great with that, no more coilwhineand I have to use a little screwdriver to change the backlight value when needed.I have made some videos, will check and upload them later on my very little Youtube channel (in french).I may update this post if I find other things.Some photos:

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2025, 09:41:51 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/fnirsi-dws-200/I would recommend leaving the back switch on then using a power bar to switch all of your soldering gear on and off together.

author: ceut
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2025, 01:34:29 pm
content: Quote from: thm_w on July 24, 2025, 09:41:51 pmHello,I already use this, with a foot-switch modded power bar, to power on all my little lab

author: ceut
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2025, 10:45:59 pm
content: So, after some tests: I give up.Problems I have: buzzing coming from PSU+Handle, even when it goes to 100°C before timeout for shutting down.I have teared down the C210 handle: what a bad quality and soldering inside !The contacts with the tip are really bad, I have tried to fix them by twist them, but 2 or 3 tip change: the contact is loose again.I don't know how reviewers haven't heard thatI have made many mods, even added a DC5525 at the rear.With that DC5525: I have tried a Anker 100W USB-C PSU: it works slower, but better, and noise is really very low.I get about 106W for C245 on the mains with this USB-C PSU, and about 80W for C210 (it is full power).For a good mod: I think it will require a good PSU (a Meanwell for example), with the genuine JBC handle and modded connector.I think the cartridge is ok, even if it could be a not really good thermal one.I don't have money for buying these for now, so it will out go to the closet for now.=>It will be my conclusion for this station.So I was fooled by all the reviews I have seen on this DWS-200Photos of the bad C210 handle

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2025, 11:53:56 pm
content: Quote from: ceut on July 28, 2025, 10:45:59 pmThis is one thing you don't hear to much about, other clone handles seem to be OK, but I rarely swap tips.QuoteFnirsi love to send out stuff for free, probably makes it easy to overlook small issues.I would avoid any of their products when competition exists, they just seem to always screw up some aspect of the design or manufacture.

author: ceut
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2025, 04:38:04 pm
content: Quote from: thm_w on July 28, 2025, 11:53:56 pmYes, on my (buggy) Aixun T380/ C210 K tip : I have no problem at all with the Handle, or noise coming from it.Problems: it reboots randomly , and there is no standby fonction (even in the newest FW released this week 1.02), so the screen is always on, and the tip goes from room Temp to solder Temp, without any standby Temp with timeoutThis one is the one I use with my TS-100 i-tip.Quote from: thm_wYes, I saw thatHere is the sum up of what I have:>Aixun (T380): buggy but usable, I have only fixed the tip earth ground (which is really easy too)https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/new-aixun-t380/msg5831683/#msg5831683[Warning: Aixun doesn't reply to any mail at all, so we can't send them the problems on there tools]>Sequre S99: I have modded it here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/sequre-s99-topic-mod-infosBut some problems with USB-C PSU which sometimes goes to OCPSo I don't use it often.>Sequre HT-140: good one, nothing really to say about it, except easy earth ground with either the cable Sequre gives now in the package, or like what I have posted[ Sequre Support is very very slow but they reply, and fix if needed ]>Miniware TS-100 and TS80P: these one are really great, with IronOS FW insideI have them for many years now no complain at all, I use the 80P in field with a powerbank.The TS-100 have a special tip, as the end of the tip is not connected to anything inside, except the screw to "earth" it(only the 2 others center and rear are used to power the heater, and sense the Thermocouple, both are in series inside the tip)Also, @thm_w I would like to thank you for always supporting my posts(note: there is a FW update for the T380, I have put a message on the topic)