hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
The sad story of a ANENG DM850 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rfengg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2025, 08:58:53 pm
content: Hi All,Got a brand new ANENG DM850 from Aliexpress for what I thought was a bargain....it was on sale for $3.20 shipped to the US......yes, you read that right......less that the price of BK Double Cheeseburger!!!Anyways, sad story short.....the damn meter does not read resistance in the 200ohm or 2K ohm range properly. Shorting the leads together in the 200ohm range makes the resistance readings jump about anywhere from 30 ohms to 100 ohms. Tried with my Probemaster probes as well but that made no difference. Opening up the unit shows no internal damage, so any pointers on what to try out as I really don't want to junk this and also would like to learn how to rectify this?Surprisingly all DC voltage readings on batteries are accurate when compared to a Fluke DMM.....don't have the courage to shove it into mains.Again, how can they sell this for $3.20 is beyond me......

author: Traceless
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2025, 09:07:47 pm
content: File a dispute for receiving a defective item. You'll get your money back and can buy a working replacement unit.

author: tunk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2025, 11:06:16 pm
content: Try some contact cleaner on the rotary contacts?

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2025, 09:10:49 pm
content: That price gives you a small insight in how big their margin is on all that other stuff.

author: ME
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2025, 09:54:59 pm
content: ones up for 97 pence with free shipping!,must be top quality or thier selling rejects.lol.

author: robert.rozee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 16, 2025, 09:59:34 am
content: Quote from: rfengg on March 13, 2025, 08:58:53 pmso open it up and fix it! look for the damaged/cracked 100 ohm and 1000 ohm resistors (used as references for resistance measurement), or for bad switch contacts - when taking out the PCB to get to the switch assembly, keep note of where exactly the spring contacts are, preferably taking a photo.btw, any of these cheap meters are really only safe to use with 50v or below.cheers,rob :-)
The tale of two Flukes. (dim LED) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Axtman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2025, 07:17:50 pm
content: I recently picked up a used Fluke 116 at a very cheap price. There is nothing wrong with it other than the LED light is dim. Here is are my two Flukes together. Notice the difference? What can I do to brighten the dim light?

author: Axtman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2025, 07:56:11 pm
content: The picture does not do it justice. The Fluke on the bottom is really dim. I will try to take a picture in the dark.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2025, 10:43:54 pm
content: It's an older version of the same model. The original version had while leds and the newer ones (which are likely chinese made on this specific model) have blueish leds or a filter.They did this on various other models, it's how you can easily tell the approximate age. The older version isn't as bright. You can additionally distinguish chinese vs US made from the writing on the back.I wouldn't worry about it, but you can search for a backlight repair done on Fluke models 114 to 117 (they are all similar) and see whats involved. Using the same backlight version part or leds probably won't improve it.Me I'm perfectly happy with my backlight how it is but on certain models like the Fluke 87V there are some changes which make the later blueish backlight versions more practical.

author: Axtman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2025, 11:41:08 pm
content: You are right!The darker model does not indicate the country of manufacturer, only that it was designed in the USA. The brighter one says it was made in Singapore.I guess the dimmer screen is not a flaw, and I won't try to fix it.Thanks!
The thin material enclosing all wound nichrome wires  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: abdulbadii
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 12, 2023, 06:22:01 am
content: What is (and function of) this brittle thin material, if it's broken it'be a bit shiny white flakes, which encloses the wound nichrome wires in a heat element?

author: Koray
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2023, 07:51:30 pm
content: Do you mean mica sheets?

author: abdulbadii
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2023, 03:44:20 am
content: So wonder if its other form, ie. small tube pipe has the same property, usefullnesso just use this more sturdy kind, if it's

author: DavidKo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2023, 10:37:11 am
content: It depends how the tube is bonded together. That is why the construction shown by Koray is done. Another possibility is to use aluminum oxide.
The transmitter LED of the remote control is broken, will it work if I replace  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: hummerjanne
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2023, 05:48:20 pm
content: The transmitter LED of the remote control is broken, will it work if I replace it with another infrared LED?

author: Buriedcode
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2023, 05:59:26 pm
content: Most likely. The black epoxy ones are the most common, being ~ 940 950nm. They are available in clear packages too, as are the shorter wavelength ones, but I believe only the 940/950's are in IR epoxy, so guarantees they'll work with most recievers.The two main criteria are peak current and emission angle. Generally emitters have narrow angle, and recievers have a wider angle. You can't go wrong with a good brand like Vishay, TSAL4400, TSAL6100, TSAL6400 etc..So short answer is, yes it will work as long as you get the polarity correct

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 25, 2023, 06:09:24 pm
content: The choice of 880 nm or 940/950 nm wavelenght is not that critical. The 880 nm ones are slight visible (not the actual 880 nm they have a tail extending to the 700-750 nm range where it eye can still see a faint glow). The 880 nm ones are usually also faster, but normal remotes in TVs and the like use only a moderate frequency and thus don't care. Most of the 5 mm ones are pretty similar in power.Small angle ones can get more intensity and thus a better range..
The use of IKEA non-slip mats in laptop repair? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: aix
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2020, 06:01:53 pm
content: Many years ago I had a MacBook that developed a graphics fault. The fault turned out to be pretty common. For quite a long time Apple pushed back on any suggestions that it was a design flaw, but eventually relented and offered a programme of free repairs. I had my laptop repaired by Apple under the programme.Now, many years later, I finally got round to taking the laptop apart. I thought you lot might enjoy what I found.Is that an IKEA non-slip mat?(I’m guessing used to shim the GPU against the laptop case to reduce the chances of a recurrence.)

author: DaJMasta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2020, 06:43:37 pm
content: Definitely looks like it's for shimming... but you'd think they'd use something with lower thermal resistance.It could be some less-usual material, and I assume it's at least not Ikea brand, but it does seem like a pretty low-budget fix...
There is current and voltage when the output of Agilent E3633A is turned off. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: nanjihai
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 04:05:11 am
content: I currently have an Agilent E3633A instrument. I found that when the output is not turned on, there is a current of 20mA and a voltage of 0.074V when measured with a multimeter. Moreover, when I set the output to on, the voltage will gradually rise from 0V to the set value, and it will display "cc". Once it reaches the target value, it will still display "cc".I've basically replaced a lot of parts, but still haven't found the problem. Do you have any good methods to find the fault?

author: Swake
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 04, 2025, 08:05:30 am
content: Yes.

author: IanJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 07, 2025, 06:06:06 am
content: I’ve repaired quite a few of these power supplies on my channel, have a look.Ian
Therm app hz fail - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Dark Pyro
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 29, 2021, 01:00:54 am
content: Hi guys, just wondering if there is any info on the pcb layout of the therm app hz 25htz, as i have had 5 of them fail and at $3000 each, it has been an expensive fail.basically it was working one second, then it didnt. im sure it has to do with the power as one of them i sent away and they fixed it by removing an inductor (smd). i am trying to get gerber files, but not having any luck, even just a BOM list would be helpfull.thanks for any help you guys can offer.
Thermal fuse - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: hamdi.tn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2024, 01:01:02 pm
content: Hi,Anyone can point out a replacement for this, I think it's a thermal fuse for 300°C. Google not helping much.Thanks

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 02, 2024, 01:16:09 pm
content: are you sure its a fuse instead of a cut off model taobao aliexpress will show many, amazon too, many sites toobut this physical size / format not so much

author: indeterminate
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2024, 09:21:02 am
content: what did it cum out ofopen it up , it looks like a self resetting thermal switch used for overload protection.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 03, 2024, 09:36:07 am
content: Where it's used? This manufacturer has part that looks very similarhttps://www.hcet-cn.com/products-detail-1049132They also have HC02 model but it looks more different.

author: hamdi.tn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 03, 2024, 10:40:05 am
content: Hi all, thanks for your help !Quote from: coromonadalix on November 02, 2024, 01:16:09 pmQuote from: indeterminate on November 03, 2024, 09:21:02 amIt's used on a hair straightener, to protect the heating element. It's marked "F" on the PCB and it's open now so I assumed it's a fuse. But it could be a thermostat that failed open.Quote from: wraper on November 03, 2024, 09:36:07 amNice ! it certainly look like these, thanks a lot

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 03, 2024, 11:22:08 am
content: QuoteThen most likely it's just a thermal switch with no overcurrent protection
Thermal Imaging FLIR FSI Prism-DS Power Cord Lost - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: JayvinIrby
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 03, 2023, 07:56:20 pm
content: Hello,I have a FLIR FSI Prism-DS model of a thermal camera imaging device. The power cord is broken and lost. What is the best course of action to get this beast fired up again? Would you either try to repo a new power cord, build a new one or desperately try to fix the old one? Please help, it would mean so much. I attached a link to images of the thermal camera and its power socket below.https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1LcZBItKn6TZqEsxPpQip-quelCZh6TBf?usp=sharingThank you,Jayvin
Thermal insulating pads: Replace every time, or re-use? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: cvanc
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2019, 03:43:03 am
content: I've always replaced them, even when they looked fine, but I wonder if I'm being more conservative than I need to be? Is it really necessary to replace these every time?What do you do? Thanks.

author: TERRA Operative
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2019, 04:47:38 am
content: Depends on how lazy I'm feeling and how critical the part is.Vreg for a relatively low power PSU? usually reuse if it isn't too old. Expensive ASIC or FPGA or other esoteric or critical part? New pads all the way.Sometimes I'll add a tiny bit of thermal paste to each side of the sil-pad too, it helps stick things in place while I fumble around with the mounting screws etc.
Thermal Pads with fibers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: 2X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2024, 11:50:43 pm
content: Hello,I have these thermal pads where have degrade and I want to replace them. I saw that have dome fibers internal. Do you know if there is something special material? I didn't find something related on mouser or on digikey with fiber description. If you have any good quality brand please suggest me. The thickness of the thermal pads are 1mm.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2024, 12:21:15 am
content: Look for thermal pads with glass fiber.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2024, 12:30:27 am
content: Usually you see the thin ones with glass fiber. Wonder if its really necessary on the thicker ones, they seem to work fine without it?If it just sits there I don't see why it needs to be tear resistant.https://www.sheenthermal.com/article-show-27-193.htmlhttps://www.thermalgraphite.com/products/fiberglassthermalpad/index.html

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 21, 2024, 12:33:12 am
content: You absolutely don't need any fibers here, so don't specially look for that. What you need is correct thickness, not too thin, not too thick and not too poor thermal conductivity.

author: 2X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2024, 10:41:23 pm
content: I choose the below:Mfr. No: COH-4065LVC-200-10Thermal Interface Products Gap Pad, 6.5 W/mK, Square, 200x200mm, 1mm Thick, Both Sides Tacky, Alpha Gelhttps://gr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/468-COH4065LVC20010
Thermal runaway in 12VDC/120VAC inverter? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Renate
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2020, 02:04:33 am
content: This is not really a repair because it's not really broken...This is an "AIMS Power 600W/(1200W surge) Pure Sine" 12VDC to 120VAC inverter.It runs ok, but I'm not loading it much, mostly 150W.The thing is, if the ambient temperature is 70°F (21°C, 294°K) the fan is off and you can barely tell that this is running by placing your hand on the case.If the ambient temperature is warmer, 86°F (30°C, 309°K), the fan is on and the case is roasting.I can't even decide if most of the heat is coming from the primary transistors or the AC chopper transistors.I was thinking that this might be because the temperature was raising the RDS of the MOSFETS.But the spec RDS seem good and the increase would only be another 25% or so.The IRF1404 are speced at 3.8 mohm, the IRF644 at 280 mohm max.Or maybe fake devices? I dunno. Suggestions?

author: TheMG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2020, 07:01:01 pm
content: Does the input current increase correspondingly with temperature?I doubt the increase in RDS(ON) due to temperature is creating a thermal runaway situation. Especially in a switching circuit, that is not significant, most heat is dissipated in the switching transitions from on to off and off to on.I could potentially be an issue of not enough dead time, made worst by temperature. If the dead time (time after switching one MOSFET off before the other is switched on), both transistors on the two sides of the bridge could be on or partially on at the same time for a brief moment at each switching cycle, resulting in considerable current flow during that time, and a ton more heat dissipated. Destruction of the transistors if it gets bad enough. This could be either bad design or you have defective unit in which something is wrong in the driving circuitry if that's the case.
Thermal silicone - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Drachenfels
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 24, 2025, 08:35:49 pm
content: I'm got a starlink router I'm repairing. It has some weird thermal silicone on the back of the board.I had to remove some of it, and it just broke apart. So I need to replace it.It's not like the normal hard white stuff to stop parts moving, it's more like a cross between a thermal pad and Playdough.I've no idea what kind of product I should use.Anyone have any idea what this stuff is, or suggest a product I should use?

author: Poroit
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2025, 07:26:24 am
content: G'day Drachenfels,It is probably Silicon Potting Mix.https://www.jaycar.com.au/silicone-potting-compound-grey-1-1/p/NA1612?srsltid=AfmBOooQMHESjEAEeem1LLf3JGHilvm_ZUBCywVtL5nIXKtvLfKutOhi

author: narkeleptk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2025, 04:54:38 pm
content: I dont think thats potting like the other post said.Looks exactly like what you described. Some type of thermal Putty.Blue and pink both common thermal putty colors. Like this:https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oBQBrfy

author: jh15
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2025, 04:21:03 am
content: Is that the original Starlink dish/system? After having a few annoying trees, i put mine away, and also i wanted to use it remotely, etc, In a live gaming thing a quick dropout messed it up. It was fast, but the router thing was hot, so taking maybe 50 watts.If my cable becomes less useful, I have it on hand. (plus many trees are gone). It was great, but expensive, especially after they added $25.00 a month to take it camping or whatever.Since it is a possible backup, I'd like to know the outcome.
Thermaltake Power Supply not generating power good signal - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rodd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2021, 08:33:37 pm
content: I have this bronze series 650W PS from thermaltake which I am trying to repair.When tested using one of these computer PS tester it alarms that the power good signal is not ok (HH condition).I opened up the PS and found that the it uses a PS224 power monitor IC which is also responsible for generating this signal.However the problem is still there after the IC was replaced.I wonder if the problem may reside in one of the SMD capacitors (and or few resistors) that are part of this small auxiliary board.There is a known problem on the stand by circuit of another computer PS where the glue used to fix the smd components in degrades and makes the board not work as expected.Any other ideas?Thanks

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2021, 08:41:45 pm
content: The Power Good output is open drain, so it requires a pullup resistor on the motherboard or in the tester. Could it be as simple as that?https://web.archive.org/web/20180712175702/http://silicon-touch.com:80/product/spec/Power/PS224.pdf

author: rodd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2021, 01:09:24 pm
content: Thank you for your reply.Unfortunately I can't open the link you have attached.I think that the tester is working since it tested OK another PS.I have to press and hold the power button of the computer to shut it down (software power off does not work).It seems there is a problem with the power good signal of this supply.Roger

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 15, 2021, 01:18:29 pm
content: Quote from: rodd on February 14, 2021, 08:33:37 pmIMHO it's not true. It's heating the IC during its removal that revives it. And people wrongly conclude it has something to do with adhesive under it. And then it often dies again after some time, even with all of the adhesive removed.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 15, 2021, 01:20:24 pm
content: Quote from: rodd on February 15, 2021, 01:09:24 pmHow about attaching pull-up resistor and measuring actual voltage with multimeter?

author: perieanuo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2021, 01:39:53 pm
content: https://www.hardwaresecrets.com/datasheets/PS224.pdfput 4k7 pullup and testI'm not really expert in windows behaviour (the OS that shuts down your pc), but software shutdown puts standby via green wire (power supply INPUT signal), pin 14 I think, and powergood signal is power source OUTPUT grey, pin8maybe those 2 problems are just not related, focus on PG output
Thermaltake smart m650w power supply repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: PFrank
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 28, 2021, 12:36:23 am
content: I have a thermaltake m650w power supply with a blown up chip (U3) but I can't read its part number. Does anyone know it?

author: eblc1388
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2021, 06:20:11 am
content: The blown IC is a offline switcher IC from Power Integration.They are a series of ICs with part number from TNY174P to TNY180P, with output ranging from 8.5W all the way up to 28.5W. Its use in the thermaltake power supply is to provide the standby 5V voltage so power rating should not matter very much. I would suggest you choose the TNY178P which is rated at 21.5W, or any one within the above series which you can easily obtain in your country. The "P" at the end of the part no. means plastic DIP package.If you have difficulty in getting the TNY178P, try the more modern and recent TNY278P made by the same company. It has the same function and pinout.I would also suggest you get several of them as they are not expensive. Remember, there might be other component damage in the power supply which led to the failure of this chip. After IC replacement, you should place a classic 40W~60W filament lamp(not CFL or LED) in series with the AC mains when first power up the circuit. If the lamp give a flash and become dark, your circuit is alright. If it shows constant high brightness, there are still faults in the circuit you need to check again.
thermaltronic for micro soldering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sadeem
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 13, 2023, 12:44:12 am
content: Hello. I looking to buy a new soldering station for repair. I work on consoles and I do micro soldering. I have been looking at thermaltronics TMT 2000s. any of you guys have any experience using it for micro soldering? and how it perform for general repair and micro soldering. I'm also looking at the ATTEN ST-1509. I'm leaning more to thermaltronics station.

author: heygeorge
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2023, 10:09:19 am
content: Hello! It's great to hear that you're in the market for a new soldering station for your console repair and micro soldering tasks. While both the Thermaltronics TMT 2000s and the ATTEN ST-1509 are popular options, I'd also like to introduce you to the AiXun soldering station.The AiXun soldering station is specifically designed with precision and versatility in mind, making it an excellent choice for micro soldering tasks like the ones you mentioned. With its stable and intelligent temperature control, it ensures consistent and accurate results, even for intricate repairs.Notably, the AiXun soldering station boasts an impressive temperature accuracy deviation of less than 1%. This level of precision is crucial when dealing with delicate components and fine soldering work. It's designed to provide the temperature control you need for both general repairs and micro soldering tasks.If you're looking for a soldering station that combines reliability, precision, and efficiency, the AiXun soldering station could be a fantastic option to consider alongside the ones you've mentioned.PS: Here are the offical website:www.aixuntech.comBut you have to find the distributors near you to get oneGood luck

author: Jamieson
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2023, 02:55:19 am
content: Themaltronics TMT 2000 series has been a GREAT iron and I've been using it since 2017. Every bit as good as a Metcal. I'd recommend the P series tips as they are a bit smaller than the K and S versions. If you don't like the full shutoff feature with the microswitch in the holder it is possible to remove it and put a pair of rare earth magnets in there, resulting in a "sleep" mode.
These connectors should be illegal - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: DrG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2020, 04:55:23 pm
content: ok, maybe not illegal but at least with a warning for the ham-fisted.My Jetson Nano camera ribbon connector. Look at the "locking" cap wrong and the the stub will break.Fix is easy...buy the connector (or 3 of them). GENTLY remove an unbroken top and GENTLY fit it into the base of the remaining connector on the board. The pic shows the broken connector top and the full new connector.

author: SilverSolder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2020, 05:53:34 pm
content: Locking connectors often hold on for dear life, and only come apart when broken! - very common problem when working on cars too, it isn't just the small locking connectors that do this...

author: Doolittle
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 26, 2020, 09:05:27 pm
content: I’m a copy repair main and your absolutely right. They get brittle with age and just crumble to be honest. I’ve just put my finger on em and they will break. Piss poor design. The ones that flip up seem much better.
This is my 4th MS surface book 1703is and 14th PSU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Beamin
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2022, 12:58:50 am
content: Other than the two times I had the whole computer replaced under warranty, and the two times just after warranty paying a $650 deductible each time, this computer works great. To get it replaced under warranty or at all (The1800 # ivr just hangs up on you if your serial number is out of warranty. no theres is no live person, not even from india, Indians want too much money nowadays) the guy on tech support had to verify I did try plugging it and pushing the correct one of three buttons on it to try and fix it remotely. I dont know why that didnt work., This computer works great. Instead of screws they use glue to hold the computer together so you can't fix it, upgrade replace/swap drives, memory etc. That sounds like an apple feature. This costs 1400$USD three years ago its the one with the fancy hinge and detach the top/screen button, which feels like you are going to break it every time you use it, so I dont press my luck by using it as a tablet.So is there a class action law suite by owners of this model yet? You cant tell me 4 devices, all of which broke in the exact same manor were random defects. Math people how do you figure the odds of that out?Another weird problem it has thats related to me replacing it. The weird magnetic white light in the tip of the power supply will light up but it just wont charge it. I have had 3 $79.99 Genuine microsoft power supplies break, and 11 generic converters of all different makes from 20$ to $60 break. All stop charging the computer after a month to a few months. The white indicator light always comes on like it is charging but the computer doesnt even register it being plugged in. I swear one time I replaced the entire laptop because the white light made me think the charger was working when it wasnt. Thats what the indian guy said to do.Sorry that was long but I paid top dollar because i wanted ibook quality performace and features that would last several years. My gate way from college lasted from 2000-2010. Arent computers at the limit where a faster cpu and memory isnt needed unless you are gaming? I thought we were at that point because the gigamahurtz number plateaued out around 3ghz , This ones like 2.7i5
Thomson CD player optical pickups TCP11 TK2 squeal - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: alan.bain
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 16, 2024, 11:35:30 pm
content: I've been repairing a JVC UX-H10 for sentimental reasons (I have many better CD transports). Laser diode o/p was low and it wasn't focussing. Manual described transport as a Thomson TCP11 TK and I was able to source a purported replacement from AliExpress (TCP11TK2L4AM235).It does sort of work and plays the CD but complete with a horrible high pitched whine (around C7 on the piano so maybe 2kHz - the piano was nearer than the frequency counter). To clarify the whine was not in the audio output but coming from the transport. It's not coming from the motor, so it's clearly a focus/tracking servo problem.There's no servo gain adjust - servo is built around TA2092 and TC9462F which have limited data sheets which suggest gain is automatic, but a quick inspection of both focus and tracking servo waveforms suggests they are working hard and the TA2092 is getting very warm.After being on some time, the tracking starts to fail for the inner tracks.I rather suspect I've got a dubious clone OPU with either a defective photodiode array or poorly aligned optics. But is there any help out there for finding one that actually works? There's more data around on the KSS240A.

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 18, 2024, 09:06:42 am
content: I wouldn't be surprised if you had a new defective pickup.Does the CD spin true enough?Any chance the CD support is too high or too low on the spindle motor axis? (Which could make sense with losing track only on the inner.)I'd probably run the new pickup on the old transport or swap the spindle motor just to be sure.Other than that, have you checked supply rails and electrolytics in the servo section?

author: alan.bain
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 21, 2024, 11:51:27 am
content: Thanks - tried new pickup on old transport and exactly the same behaviour. CD appears to run true using at least the fingernail test and no dirt on the cd bed or magnetic clamp.Supply rails looked OK, but 9V power supply regulation (for motors) is somewhat iffy, but that did rather appear to be a "feature" of the original design. 5V regulation good. There is a 220uF in the servo which I should indeed check - thanks.Alan
THOMSON DPL914VD home cinema PSU won't start (solved) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: AndreyS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2019, 07:05:03 am
content: My flatmate has left the flat and left this home cinema behind.It had bulged 400V cap, shorted transistor, FAN7554 IC, and open fuse.I've replace all these components and it just won't start.The schematic is attached to this post.431, optocoupler are not shorted. I didn't find any other shorted component.But I've noticed difference in FAN7554's pins in schematic vs datasheet I found on the internet; pins 1-3 doesn't match. Are there at least 2 versions of 7554?I've found IC that has the same pin layout as in schematic: FAN7601https://lib.chipdip.ru/061/DOC001061746.pdfBut it's operating frequency is 300kHz (on contrary 7554 is 500kHz).What is next step in diagnostics? What should I do? Are those ICs really have different pin layout? Can I just rewire pins 1-3?

author: AndreyS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2019, 07:08:45 am
content: I forgot to mention that voltage on C805 which is connected to pin 2 (cs/fb) of 7554 is constantly jumping 0-1.3V. Measured with ordinary multimeter. Therefore real Vpp may differ.

author: AndreyS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2019, 05:04:53 pm
content: I desoldered all solder jumpers (U26,U27,U29,U31), thus cutting out 12V,5V,3.3V from other components. The problem is still persisting, showing that the problem is indeed in power supply circuitry.I've went through datasheet, and there is a principal diagram where the IC is connected exactly as in service manual of the home cinema.I might look for other failed components

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 18, 2019, 11:07:03 pm
content: ISTM that the FAN7554 IC matches the circuit on a functional basis according to the surrounding components, but the pin descriptions are in error. I would not substitute a FAN7601.https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/149/FAN7554-1006916.pdfCommon failures in these types of circuits are C803 (dries out and goes high ESR) and R805 (startup resistor goes O/C).

author: AndreyS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2019, 12:24:00 pm
content: the board had R809 1k and R811 0.47 burnt as well. So I replaced these and now it's back to lifeR811 looked allright, and R809 is SMD resistor, I didn't noticed those.

author: AndreyS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2019, 12:30:14 pm
content: By the way what happened to the circuitry? I mean what is the sequence of failure of components?My guess is:1) 400V cap dried out2) it caused huge ripples and bad filtering3) at this point I kind of lost. Now it is whether switching MOSFET or IC 7554I attached the screenshot of the affected part of schematic
THOMSON TVC IDC2  or 81MXC99 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Oliv_Bricol-2
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 18, 2025, 11:17:50 am
content: Hello everyone. I'm looking for workshop documentation on an old THOMSON TVC chassis IDC2 or 81MXC99, a 32-inch version. I need to know how to access the service menu to adjust the black levels. This chassis is completely digital, and has no internal manual adjustments.Access is via a key combination on the keyboard.The instructions found online don't work.
thorlabs thermoelectric controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Corryl
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 19, 2024, 05:03:58 am
content: I’ve got a Thor labs thermoelectric controller that I took a risk on hoping it was just a fuse…but of course it wasn’t. I made an offer and it was accepted so I got it fairly cheap so if it’s totally fried, it’s not the end of the world and I bought a lot of expensive analog parts to use in other projects. But, if I can make it work and use it for some “cool laser stuff” all the better! So, I figured I’d dig in regardless!The only obvious damage is a charred resistor that’s either 10 ohms or charred beyond legibility. It measures 40 ohms currently. It was a limiting resistor to a zener marked zpd 3 with its breakdown voltage measuring 2.3V currently. Is it safe to assume this was a 3V zener, or is there something kooky like the marking only gives part of the voltage and you should just know what the part after the decimal is or measure with a multimeter! (Hopefully not but I’ve seen crazy stuff before.The only reason I question the zener voltage is it is connected across a pnp bjt and may be the “regulator” for the digital components. (Which would explain the lack of powering on). It just seems like an odd voltage to use…2.3V after the bjt drop. I’d have to reverse engineer some more to really know, which I’ll do, but it would be a nice story to say someone plugged it into 240, and the most expensive component in the system didn’t act as a fuse, instead a resistor and zener did! Yeah, that’s probably far too optimistic…
thought your last repair was hard? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2023, 07:34:52 am
content: moved this to repair forum

author: CosteC
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2023, 03:55:26 pm
content: Very impressive indeed."Totally unanticipated maintenance" is quite comprehensive summary to all this action...

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2023, 09:37:05 pm
content: yeah they really did a good job with that repair. the most impressive part is that its not robotic

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2023, 03:37:58 am
content: the question becomes is it unrepairable or are you too cheap with tools? But honestly nothing struck me as extravagant, its more like they had alot of ingenuity.also I bet this made TIG welding popular (early plasma cutter)
Thrustmaster T150 steering wheel - device not recognized in the system - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: pajac
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 17, 2022, 05:48:29 pm
content: Hello. I have game steering wheels and I have a problem after connecting to the computer the inscription usb device not recognized in the device manager there is an inscription unknown usb device device descriptor request failed windows system stopped this device due to reported problems code 43. The steering wheel turns on for a moment the steering wheel motor starts for a moment and then the steering wheel turns off whose fault may be the microcontroller or the a4950T driver of the motor controller shown in the photo. Thanks in advance for your help.

author: nonkapo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2023, 06:18:14 pm
content: In my particular case despite the burnt out driver chip the wheel was able to get recognized and even firmware update go trough. That not necessarily means the driver cannot be the reason.
Thrustmaster T300RS repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: WhataMelon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 28, 2020, 04:30:39 am
content: Hi EveryoneI have a friend's Thrustmaster T300RS for repair. I have spotted a cracked component on the board, and I need some help identifying what it is exactly. It has MCC 43A marked on it. Is there anyone here who may be able to help with finding a replacement part, or a suitable alternative?Thanks

author: Plugry
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 16, 2021, 05:22:40 pm
content: Hi,I have the same problem...Did you find a solution ?

author: fourtytwo42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2021, 07:06:09 pm
content: It looks like a diode that has been blown up by heavy current. What is what I assume to be a connector the other side of the board connected to ?Does this unit have an external power adapter ? Could it have been connected to one of the wrong voltage or polarity by mistake ?

author: Plugry
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 17, 2021, 07:11:18 am
content: Hi !This is a diode, reference MCC43A.Is there someone know where I can find it ?The diode is connected to the motor of the steering wheel...Do you think that the problem could come of the motor ? Or it's only the diode which passed out ?

author: aqibi2000
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2021, 02:48:27 pm
content: Quite sure it’s not just the diode that’s gone

author: LateLesley
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2021, 10:54:05 pm
content: Well, here's a link to it's datasheet, if it helps.https://pdf1.alldatasheet.net/datasheet-pdf/view-marking/545776/ONSEMI/1.5SMC43AT3.html
Thrustmaster T80 steering problem - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Silverhaze
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 28, 2022, 08:05:35 pm
content: Hi i have several Thrustmaster T80 steering wheels.The T80 wont steer, all the buttons work. All the wheels are working but not the steering part, some of them have parts broken some of them have nothing broken parts. But all the steers dont respond on steering. Maybe it's a common fault ? I checked the pot meter and it was working. But steering no response on pc. It has a small pcb board, is there anny replacement available? Think the circuit is the problem. Or the only way is to measure till i find the vaulty component?
Thurlby bench PSU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Mjolinor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 08:45:59 am
content: I do have a few of these things bought new actually way back in the 1980s or possibly early 90s. I do blow them up regularly and never have any problems getting them going again without a manual.However I just bought a used one with a "K1 module" attached to it. It is unfortunately a 30v 1a module and I could really do with having more current available. As far as I can tell there is no difference between the one amp and two amp versions but I can only find schematics for later models, not these that look like a spider laid them out inside. I am also unable to find any references to a "K1" module, neither instructions or service manual.Does anyone know if their is a difference and if not how to increase the current. With the current limit pot maxed out I can get about 1.3 amps out of it. That pot seems to have been replaced with a 10 turn at some time, I am sure they do not come with one as standard, certainly none of my others have that.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 09:49:20 am
content: The 2A versions have two layers of heatsink on the back and another two pass transistors. Don't push the 1A ones past 1.5A. Especially the old black and white ones which are made of poo. The older K1 module is a PL310 with a bunch of switching on the side AFAIK and not much more.I would throw them all in the trash or ebay and get a late model PL320QMD or PL330QMD and just be done. They are architecturally better and very very difficult to blow up.

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 09:52:33 am
content: Looks like the K module was only applied to the earlier models, the later models being triple output designs from the get-go. Try the attached - it mentions the K module. It also states that it was available in two varieties; K1 limited to 0.55A and K2 1.1A. You appear to already have the maxed-out version.

author: Mjolinor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 10:33:59 am
content: Cheers for that. It is different from all the others I have found. Mine is the 0.55 amp version on the K module and 1 amp on the main supply.

author: Mjolinor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 10:35:36 am
content: QuoteI don't have several thousands £ available to replace these with newer ones and I only blow them up about one per year anyway so it isn't a problem, not like I do it every week.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 10:57:18 am
content: Are you electroplating with them? That's the only time I've seen people use lots of them and blow them up.

author: Mjolinor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 01:31:14 pm
content: Quote from: bd139 on July 26, 2019, 10:57:18 amCharging liion cells mostly. Hundreds of them.

author: bd139
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 01:42:10 pm
content: Ahh figures. That's what I use mine for mostly. That and SLAs
Thurlby DSA511/524 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Specmaster
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 25, 2021, 05:19:32 pm
content: I have this Thurlby DSA511 that I won on eBay and it powers up sometimes and not others but when it does, the controls are not operational and I have downloaded a service manual, in fact many of them from various sites, only trouble is that they are all the same one and when the original was scanned it was on a low quality setting and much of is unreadable, especially the schematics and the board overlays making pinpointing test points and component values almost impossible.I was wondering if anyone either has a decent copy of the manual or can point me towards where I can get one from?For instance, where the schematic might be readable, the drawing with the parts overlay is not and the boards themselves offer no assistance printing on them whatsoever.
TI CF72223 datasheet - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Haasje93
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2019, 07:15:40 am
content: Hello everyone!For a repair i am looking for a datasheet of a CF72223 from Texas Instruments.I have searched on the web, but i can not find it. Maybe there is here someone who has it?Who can help me? I have attached a photo of the ICregards,Christiaan

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2019, 08:59:55 am
content: Christiaan, this seems a house number.What is the equipment and what is the surrounding of the device? I.e., is there a crystal soldered to a pair of pins? Are there any analog paths (opamps, for example) that are connected to the device? Similar thing to digital paths (serial ports or memory for example)?The intent is to try and match the device with a similarly-looking device in the same package, such as a C2x or C5x DSP.Even if you find the package, there is a high probability this is a ROM masked device, which makes the replacement quite difficult.

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2019, 11:19:47 am
content: What makes you think that IC is faulty? Have you ruled out everything else?I've spent ages finding a replacement part, finally found it, only to discover the fault was elsewhere.
Ti DSP TMS320VC5501 no need programing? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: f14
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2025, 06:11:19 am
content: Hi All,I am repairing few devices using TMS320VC5501 with FPGA, External Flash ROM/RAM outside. After reading the datasheet, I see that TMS320C/VC only has a small ROM inside, and no flash or OTP ROM like TMS320F. So we can replace them if they are damaged without having to reprogram?

author: TinLethax
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 21, 2025, 07:55:04 am
content: After some quick look at the TI document No. SPRS206K. It seems that the TMS320VC5501 can boot of the external SPI chip. But there is also a 32KB masked ROM too. You might have to check the BOOTM0/1/2 pins to figure out the boot configuration. But it was also possible that the original chip is booted from masked ROM via setting bit MPNMC to 0. If there's a SPI flash connected to McBSP0 (Multichannel Buffered Serial Port Pins) then there's a chance that it boot off this SPI chip (if BOOTM was configured to SPI boot which you can probe the pin with DMM).
TI59 Power Supply Module removal and repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: elbass7
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 01, 2023, 03:35:41 pm
content: Hi EEVblog-ers,I found my old (1970s) college TI59 calculator stored away in a box in the attic and tried to get it to work, but of course the battery pack was toast. I replaced the batteries with new 2800mAh NiCads and it still does not power up, except with the battery pack out. With the adaptor connected and battery pack out, the far right LED digit just blinks real fast.So, after reading several blogs and downloading the service manual, I have come to the conclusion that the power supply module that inputs ~3.3 volts and outputs -10 volts and -15 volts must have failed components.I'm first looking for advice on how to remove the actual module from the main board so I can test it and replace components. Any ideas? Do I need to unsolder something to free the module?Thanks,Eddy B

author: iMo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2023, 04:39:39 pm
content: Show the schematics, pictures, etc..