Using a Hakko 808, if you have used one a lot please comment. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 05:56:45 am
content: I'm trying to work out if I have been over using the desoldering gun, or if there is a problem with it.This is the same desoldring gun that I asked about in this topic:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/hakko-808-resistor-keeps-blowing/msg402655/Okay, here is what I have been going with it. On advantage, on the days I used it, I would have it running non stop for up too three hours, removing parts from mostly power supply boards out of TV's. When I noticed the solder building up, I would leave it on and remove the built up solder, clean out the glass tube, put it back and go back to removing parts from the power boards. It was not until later, when I had ordered a cleaning rod, that I started using it.Now, (in my own words, from what the owner explained to me) I had been running it too long and that is why it was blowing the resistor.If so can someone please tell me the best time I should have it running, and then what is the best time to let it sit and cool down, you know turn it off or?Like, let it run for ten minutes and turn it off for thirty minutes?Its been driving me crazy.And yes, I did real the manual, I did not see anything that described running time.

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 06:19:50 am
content: I have used one daily at work for the last 18 months, sometimes I have left it on all day (~7-8 hours) with no issues, and on one occasion accidentally left it powered up overnight, again with no issue. Unless I know I'm performing large scale rework I will leave it off until I need it, in which case it reaches a workable temperature in ~30 seconds.

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 06:56:38 am
content: Quote from: RobertHolcombe on March 20, 2014, 06:19:50 amI was under that impression, that these things where built to at least be used daily.I guess that its more, age and bad timing?

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 12:17:13 pm
content: Where did you bought your 808? From an authorized reseller? I've heard that many hakkos are counterfeit, maybe this could be your case and explain the low reliability?

author: ablacon64
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 12:31:37 pm
content: I can't tell the difference from a counterfeit and an original 808, except for the price. I remember seeing them on ebay last year for about 80 USD. Now they are over 190 USD. I don't know if that difference is because some are fake or if last year nobody cared about it and suddenly it became everyone's desire.Edit: corrected some mistyping

author: all_repair
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 12:41:33 pm
content: I have been using one for years and no issue with burnt rsistor, and mostly leave it on for most of the day. Unit is powered up but suction is on and off, mostly not sucking. But the temperature setting is almost at the minimum for my set as anything higher is too high and burn the thread easily. I don't get to see clone of 808, even on Taobao. The China copy-cats do not look like 808, they have the problem of burning up the motor.

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 06:43:13 pm
content: Quote from: ablacon64 on March 20, 2014, 12:31:37 pmThat's the point. If you didn't bought from an official reseller and maybe you've paid it less than the "regular" price, you can't state that's genuine, and if bought on ebay or aliexpress almost certainly you've got a counterfeit 808. And you cannot distinguish one conterfeit unit without seeing the inside circuitry or comparing with an original.The original is enginereed to last for years, even using it many hours a day. It doesn't have a time heating limit, because its temperature is electronically controlled, so heating it for 30 mins or 5 hours doesn't make the difference in blowing the resistor. I suspect that you own a cloned 808 and that the resistor has blown due to the quality of the component. Maybe I'm wrong. Try posting some images, showing also the pump motor. I could compare them with mine.

author: ablacon64
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 07:14:08 pm
content: Quote from: mcinque on March 20, 2014, 06:43:13 pmIt's not mine, the poster is mictas.

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 08:42:35 pm
content: Quote from: ablacon64 on March 20, 2014, 07:14:08 pm

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2014, 10:38:55 pm
content: I know the one I'm using is legit, see attached photo for referenceEDIT: also I have the temp set around the mid point of the adjustment pot

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 01:46:09 am
content: I doubt fake 808s exist; also, I see the resistor the OP is talking about and the "two other blue companions" he mentioned, so it's likely he has the same.

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 02:37:05 am
content: I did have a quick look at the board OP mentioned, I didn't remove the motor assembly, but I did see other components on the board hidden away, as well as the large blue thing, I couldn't tell if it was mounted to the board or not

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 03:54:40 am
content: Quote from: RobertHolcombe on March 21, 2014, 02:37:05 amWhat you are talking about is the second board, on that you have a bridge rectifier, a resistor (what keeps blowing on the one I have access too) and two large capacitors (blue things)So the thing that is broken atm.Quote from: ablacon64 on March 20, 2014, 12:31:37 pmThe one I am using, is old. My understand is that it was from a business that went under, closed down or just got new equipment.If I ever do get the money to buy one, I'll have to get it from the US, and with any luck it will not be hard to find out if they are really an authorized seller, what gets me is that a number of people don't understand some business's open eBay store, the trick is finding the real ones, and not buying from the fakes.Two places I am watching:http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/niosaleshttp://www.ebay.com.au/usr/www*bdent*comonly one has there own website I have seen, but this is only when I can start saving up again. Man That is going to be months from now.Quote from: mcinque on March 20, 2014, 06:43:13 pmhttp://www.ebay.com.au/usr/www*bdent*comseems legit, well from the stand point where its only seems to be an addon to there own website.Contacting the hakko head offices for lists of sellers isn't going to be that hard, but that is not something I am willing too do until I have the money needed to buy one.Anyway, as you said, it should last for years, what might happen, once a unit is years old?Quote from: RobertHolcombe on March 20, 2014, 10:38:55 pmOkay, I really can't go poking around the desoldeirng gun any more, looking at your photo, I can say this.Where the power cable comes in, I see what looks to be a black capacitor on the mains line. That is not on the unit.There was only one earth line, and that was connected to the nozzle. The earth to the vacuum moter, was not there.And the plastic cover that is poking out from behind the temperature board is not there.I should also make note, that this unit has been already taken apart and fixed before.Also, because there is no ground on the moter, could that be blowing the resistor?The photo I have attached is the temperature board to the hakko 808 that I was trying to draw a schematic too, to see what was going on.Point, your smartphone, can be used to do smart things :p

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 04:54:30 am
content: mictas: The eBay links in your last post don't work, incorrectly formatted.

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 07:08:11 am
content: Quote from: GeoffS on March 21, 2014, 04:54:30 amI see what you meant, try this onehttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281220215862see the problem is that the seller has * in his username and that is throwing off the auto link thing in the blog.

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 07:10:32 am
content: It's less confusing if you fix the original post

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 08:06:40 am
content: Quote from: GeoffS on March 21, 2014, 07:10:32 amSadly its the sellers ebay name which is "www*bdent*com" and the "*" seemed to have confused the forum thinking the URL has ended after the www, which it has not.

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 08:15:20 am
content: Quote from: mictas on March 21, 2014, 08:06:40 amFixed it for you.

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 10:30:19 am
content: Quote from: GeoffS on March 21, 2014, 08:15:20 amHow did you do that?

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 10:38:00 am
content: Just use themodifybutton at the top right hand side of your post.Edit post to correct errors.Save modified post.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2014, 12:09:22 pm
content: Looking at the differences, my bet is on an older revision (non-RoHS?) of the board, not a clone. The layout is almost the same, and the cloners wouldn't use the relatively obscure 7101C over an opamp or two in the control loop.Bridge rectifier, power resistor, and capacitors on the secondary board do strongly suggest a transformerless supply - and the resistor getting fried suggests it's drawing more current than it should, so check the other components on the board for leaky caps, resistors out of tolerance, etc.

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2014, 11:44:35 am
content: Quote from: amyk on March 21, 2014, 12:09:22 pmJust something about the 'power circuit board' the caps did not appear to be leaking, someone else tested both of them, which seemed to be working.But I noticed in the photo posted by RobertHolcombehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/using-a-hakko-808-if-you-have-used-one-a-lot-please-comment/msg409784/#msg409784his has a earth lead coming off the moter, while the one I had access to did not. Might the grounding, missing from the moter be the course?