hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Anritsu spectrum analyzer MS2661 tears - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Daxxin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2015, 05:51:15 pm
content: hi , i am in trouble with this instrument , it power on i hear relays clicking but nothing on display , in stand-by mode sincethe problem begin its noisy ..whistling opening the psu have child board with red led (V12 label) flashing fast , dont havethe schematic to test voltages on board no silkscreen labels , if someone expert anritsu can help me , thanks.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 05:20:28 am
content: CRT display?How is the CRT HV derived? From a SMPS? Maybe that has failed?Hold a scope probe close to the SMPS and see if there is any EMI that indicates it might be working.

author: Daxxin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 07:11:09 am
content: this model have lcd screen NEC NL3224AC35-01 model

author: Daxxin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 10:59:14 am
content: I HEARD ABOUT BACKLIGHT ..IF ITS BROKEN THE DISPLAY REMAIN TOTALLY DARK OR CAN VIEW EVEN DARK?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 11:02:42 am
content: Try shining a bright light directly at the LCD and if you can see a faint image the backlight only has failed.Some have simple inverters for the backlight HV, others more complex controllers with auto shutdown in fault conditions.Again you can use a scope probe like a near field probe to see if the backlight oscillator is working.

author: Daxxin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 01:03:30 pm
content: HV is present , touching with fingers the output of 2 coils i see sparkling , so you thing ccfl lamp is gone? anyway lighting the panel cant view anything

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 01:45:36 pm
content: Somewhere inside will be a set of test points to measure the power supply voltages. Check these first.

author: Daxxin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 02:40:18 pm
content: lcd display with his integrated contoller and hv modules get power suppy and signals form the control panel trough flat cableFP has test point all 4 values are ok , +14v , -14v , +5v and 12v , , what i found not correct is the Vcc of some ICs on lcd controllerexample TA8696 toshiba controller from datasheet minimal vcc is 4v but i can measure only 1,98v

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 02:47:44 pm
content: Is something on that 4V rail getting hot?

author: Daxxin
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 04:48:55 pm
content: None its all fine i found the problem , the bulb ccfl was cracked , alredy ordered the replacement , thanks for the help
Trying to verify a YIG oscillator output amplitude - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: jlmoon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 10, 2015, 08:08:37 pm
content: I have been evaluating a case of trouble with a Hp 8563a 10khz to 26Ghz spectrum analyzer and beginning to scratch my head a little.Could someone give me some clues to why my YIG output would be varying in amplitude when performing some basic span / LO functional test per the Hp service documents. I have measured both on the 1st LO output (front panel) and directly to the YIG/LO SMA connector. What I am encountering is this: I can dial up some frequencies setting the span to zero and when I set center frequency to some areas the YIG LO goes down in amplitude until there is no output. When working correctly the YIG output is around +6 to +7 dbm. I have a video that actually shows the LO behaving correctly until it reaches an area of the programmed span and then poof the LO amplitude drops into the noise. Turn the analyzer center frequency back down a little and the LO fires back up and all is good, approach the edge of trouble and the LO output drops 30 - 40db in level until it disappears. Currently I am not seeing any signal from 0 to ~2.7 Ghz , 2.8 to approx 3.1 Ghz all is good, go above ~3.2Ghz to the top end of 26Ghz and the output drops off again. Isn't it correct to assume the YIG output should not vary in amplitude but only frequency based on the current imposed on the Loop coil. After all this is the LO input to the mixer which derives your frequency of interest.Any advice would be greatly appreciated.Thank you,JLM

author: acbern
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 11, 2015, 01:20:24 am
content: The amplitude should be stable within the specs of the manual, what you see is certainly beyond. What you should do is to measure the currents in the coils from the regions that are ok transitioning into the bad regions. if the current jumps (both coils), the driving circuitry (DACs...) seems to have a problem. If everything is ok, what may have happened (and I have not seen that myself, but read about it) the YIG balls within the case may have moved, causing such problems.

author: jlmoon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 11, 2015, 03:15:52 am
content: acbern,That is my next step exactly, I am going to put my A6302's on those coil lines and look at the currents as this is going on. It is quite strange that the amplitude is present and at the correct level but only in some areas of the span range. I hear alot of folks say the YIG's / L.O. in this particular series of analyzers are subject to high failure rate like around 99% of the time. Before I spend $1000 on a rebuilt one, I do want to rule any other issues out.Thank you for the insight
Finding a repacement Mostek MK5007N for a HP 3465B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: capleo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 01:25:13 am
content: I acquired an old HP 3465B Digital multimeter. The current MK5007N is clearly blown and needs a new one. The date code clearly says it was made in 1977. Anyone have any ideas/suggestions where i can get this?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2015, 06:28:28 am
content: Welcome to the forum.You could tryhttp://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/index.html
Monitor External Power Supply  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: DarkZero
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 09:06:46 am
content: Hello All!Recently my monitor started shuting down reason being bad external power supply i opened it up and imidietly i saw bulged high voltage capacitor i switched it with a new one and while i was at it i switched capacitors in low voltage side as well. it started to work but after some time it starts to buzz and lose regulation turning it of and on same result works for some time then starts buzzing and loses regulation. so i went and switched diodes on high voltage side power mosfet checks ok on multimeter also double schottky diodes i also checked opto-coupler now it works for quite some time like 2-3 days then it just loses regulation again. i even suspected monitor being bad but used laptop supply with no problems.i can buy new supply but monitor is old and i use it in my shed and if i fiddle with it ill probably learn a thing or few any suggestions ?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 07:18:52 pm
content: Did you change the little capacitor on the primary side as well? If not change it. Otherwise those Samwha caps on the output are suspect. Please also clean the flux off the underside of the board.

author: DarkZero
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 05:42:19 pm
content: Hello SeanB!Only electrolytic i didn't change is that small one near that big one and it seems that it was faulty too, supply seems to work now for 1 day no problems. ill clean flux no worries i just became desperate and resoldered everything.Thanks for the suggestion! it seems its fixed !

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 07:16:31 pm
content: That little electrolytic is the one that is used to run the controller chip, and as it fails you get the same symptoms, and in the end the power supply delivers high uncontrolled voltage on the output in some cases doing the Kamikaze end to the stuff plugged in to it.
Pacific SmartSource 315-ASX Startup Failure - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: PHXRefurbisher
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 03, 2015, 03:40:47 pm
content: Hello, I have (2) 315-ASX Power Sources that will not fully power on. They both just look as the picture I've attached with nothing showing on the LCD and with some of the LED's lit up. I'm wondering if there is a way I can try to repair these on my own without having to send them to a shop. Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated, thank you!

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 11:26:26 am
content: Interesting piece of gear... I found the manual here:http://www.tectra.hu/apps/Pacific-Power-Source/Manual%20ASX%20Series.pdfbut was not helpful. You need to open the unit take some pictures and then post it here.

author: PHXRefurbisher
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 03:12:40 pm
content: Thanks for finding this. Yeah, I did have it opened up, should have taken pictures at the time. Will when I get the time thanks for the reply!
Parts for repair needed - DT362 touch screen - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sam1275
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 03:48:49 pm
content: Hello, I've got a DT research DT362 tablet computer, it have a broken touch screen, but the LCD is good, where can I find a replacement part of the touch layer? Thank you everyone.

author: sam1275
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 07:30:33 pm
content: Anyone help?

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 10:27:42 pm
content: on ebay, $10-100easy solution - sell your broken piece of crap, buy a new piece of crapnot easy solution, disassemble your piece of crap, take out touchg screen, make detailed pictures and post them here
Best way to remove solder mask? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Axtman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2015, 03:36:00 am
content: What is the best way to remove solder mask? I am referring to that green tinted clear coat that goes over circuit board traces. I have some delicate traces that I need to repair and don't want to damage them further by scraping with an exacto knife. Thanks!

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2015, 04:52:24 am
content: A fibreglass pencil may rub it away.

author: Smith
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2015, 08:25:24 am
content: I always use a sharp exacto knife or equivalent and then I just scrub it off. May not be the best option, but it works like a charm and its fast.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2015, 08:27:59 am
content: Some extremely fine sandpaper would probably work ok, 1000grit maybe.I still prefer a blade though, as long as you angle it and scrape along the surface in the correct direction it's very hard to cut tracks.(One direction it will dig-in and cut tracks. The other direction it will only scrape based on how hard you press)

author: KD0CAC John
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2015, 05:12:23 pm
content: I 2nd the fiberglass pen , mostly used so far with the counterfeit caps leaking on traces .After rubbing to clean copper , wipe with alcohol and re-coat where needed .

author: plazma
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2015, 05:53:19 pm
content: Fiberglass pen for larger areas. Surgical knife with blade #15 for precise small areas.

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2015, 11:14:48 pm
content: I usually use a round-edged blade to do the initial prepwork ie. bare copper, then the fibreglass pencil to prepare the tracks for tinning. It gives a much better finish.

author: krivx
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2015, 05:17:20 pm
content: Here is some info:https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLsyTdiI7kVn-3qh8dHlkTvJLEcsh9TsoRhttp://www.grandideastudio.com/portfolio/pcbdt/
Jtag Usb Board? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: stephenstud
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 01:08:00 am
content: Hi, and thank you for at least looking. I'm trying to find a place that can show me how to trace the points to solder on a board. I have a usb thumb drive that doesn't work. I was thinking maybe I can solder a usb end cut off from a cord, to the board? Thank you for any help.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 03, 2015, 11:09:03 am
content: I would start by digging in the uController datasheet. Not sure what you want to fix thow...

author: stephenstud
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 03, 2015, 06:35:31 pm
content: I'm just trying to get the data off of it. I assumed that I could just solder up a jtag to it, and read the info. I find some people doing this, but I have no idea where to really start.....

author: abyrvalg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 07:16:32 am
content: SM3253L has no JTAG (it has ancient 8051 core). The usual process for getting the data out of such device is to desolder the flash, read it in programmer, process the data with some special sw like PC3000 (not free). The last step is the most problematic - you will not get a raw filesystem image from the chip, the data is scrambled (to prevent repeating patterns that high density NAND doesn't like), "disk" sectors are mapped somehow chaotic to physical NAND pages (bad block management/wear leveling). Solving the hw part (desoldering, getting a programmer) is totally useless if you have no sw tool to process the raw data you'll get.

author: stephenstud
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 09:44:03 am
content: Thank you very much. I will look up the software. Is that just common knowledge on that unit, or is there something I can read to let me know about the different ones out?

author: stephenstud
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 09:49:37 am
content: And that PC3000 is from Ace Labs right?

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 09:52:52 pm
content: http://www.flash-extractor.com/forum_old/viewtopic.php?p=34792
2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer Electrical problems - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: kolonelkadat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 04:21:53 pm
content: I have a 2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer. Every now and then the door locks will rapidly lock and unlock. the heated seat will change temperature. the windows will stutter up and down. Ive been all over the net and have been told a dozen different things. This is not a constant fault. Maybe 1 in 3 drives this error will occur.I started today with the door panel button module. It does appear to have damage, but Id like a professional opinion.Ive marked the spots I think are troublesome.odd white powderblack areas under solder maskbroken? tracesAny repair tips would be greatly appreciated.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 04:28:08 pm
content: This looks like water damage. You better fix the leak. Using conformal coating may also help but if water continues to leak onto the board it will only be a short term fix.

author: Zucca
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 04:59:32 pm
content: Normally in a car before to touch anything you should read out the OBD codes... have you tried that?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 05:34:22 pm
content: It drowned. You can repair it, and then give it a conformal coat to protect it from further damage, but you should also fix where it is getting water in. My bets are fia the window edge and through the door latch, along with it coming through inside when you drip on the door itself. Place some sheet plastic to cover the board from the top and sides, leaving the bottom open to allow drainage and the new one will last longer.the black is corrosion of inside tracks and layers, and the white is from areas which are always 12V supplies that got wet.

author: kolonelkadat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2015, 07:18:22 pm
content: Quote from: zucca on March 04, 2015, 04:59:32 pmI hadn't, because it passed emmisions testing and OBD codes result in automatic failure. But I just checked a few moments ago and it reported "no codes"Quote from: SeanB on March 04, 2015, 05:34:22 pmI made a particularly sad attempt to remove the solder mask and corrosion. Then put some solder over the top of the bare copper in hopes of preventing further damage. I may have made a mistake in bodging a sot23 to a capacitor. But who knows.I will leave it like this for now. I dont want to coat it or anything until I know i didnt mess anything up.thanks for the input guys.
High frequency noise on the output of my HiFi :( - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: iCore
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 09:03:44 pm
content: Hello everyoneSo here's the problem,On the ouput of my Hifi audio system, i hear a High frequency noiseI've tried to use an oscilloscope but it turns out the only noise I see is around 25kHz, which surprises me because i didn't thought i could be able to here above 20kHz .Whenever i change the audio input (Line, DLNA, Airplay or USB) I still get the noise.The case is made of metal and when I mesured with my multimeter, i got some voltage but even when i grounded the case, the noise was still there. :/Also when i turn the volume all the way down to mute it, the noise disappearThe model is the following : Sharp XL-HF401PHI've bought it around 2 years ago and the noise appeard few months ago but it's only now that i am trying to repair itAny ideas ?I'll try to make some inside pictures tomorrow

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2015, 02:27:24 am
content: Could be a number of possibilities... including simply bad design, if it's anything consumerist.Aging would seem to suggest electrolytic capacitors, perhaps an unstable switching supply as a result. Can you take some pictures of the PC boards inside?TimP.S. Max avatar? Now there's a classic

author: Paul Moir
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2015, 05:41:37 am
content: It could also be something external interfering with it. As a first step try unplugging everything else around it (in the house) or better yet taking it somewhere else.
Samsung Syncmaster 2233rz - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: P5k
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 01:47:28 am
content: Hello everyone.I'm new to both the forum and electronics, so I could definitely use some help on this one. I've got my hands on a broken Samsung Syncmaster 2233rz 3D monitor, which seems to be having intermittent power issues. You press the power button and it turns on, briefly displays a video signal, then goes black, whereas an LED at the bottom of the screen remains on, so obviously some part of the power supply is still working.To be honest, this project is very much over my head. I literally only got into electronics a few weeks ago, and this is daunting. Case in point: in my haste to diagnose the monitor, I managed to short out part of the power supply (I know, I'm an idiotplease don't laugh at me). So now I have a second problem to diagnose (although the burnt PCB probably will make that a little easier). Think anyone could give me a hand on how to get started? I am in deep here. Just some recommendations on how not to kill myself through stupidity would probably help...Pictures below might give you an idea of what I'm dealing with.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 02:13:17 am
content: Quick and dirty - unplug it from the wall and re-seat all of the connectors you can find inside. I've fixed a plasma TV once just by doing that.

author: P5k
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 02:17:45 am
content: Yeah, the capacitors were the first things I looked at - nothing obvious. They all seemed to be in working order from a visual standpoint.

author: P5k
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 03:02:54 am
content: Quote from: wilfred on March 01, 2015, 02:38:59 amYeah, I don't have an ESR meter, but it's definitely on my list.Quote from: wilfred on March 01, 2015, 02:38:59 amThankfully I was wearing eye protection at the time. I had stupidly left the PCB resting on the metal frame of the monitor, which created the short. As for this repair ... I guess I didn't realize what I was getting into. I feel very disheartened now.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 05:44:49 am
content: As of primary problem, likely CCFL inverter transformer (long black rectangle) have one of the secondary windings dead. Should measure about 1 kOhm both, usually one of them becomes open when faulty.

author: P5k
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 05:11:55 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on March 01, 2015, 05:44:49 amThank you. I'll check that once I replace the parts I damaged.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 02, 2015, 02:48:22 pm
content: If that area is completely shorted (zero ohms), likely you destroyed diode bridge (black 4 leg part on the heatsink). MOSFET on the another heatsink might be damaged too, however it won't make resistance at that area be measurable as zero.
Hp 54100A software failure - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: barney
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 28, 2015, 08:34:49 pm
content: Hi all,I just purchased an HP 54100a digitizing oscilloscope with a faulty power supply and repaired it succesfully and all worked fine. After cleaning some dust around the cards i now have a software fault which reads `SOFTWARE ERROR! Address error 0469BEH`Can this be repaired? Would it be possible to get a backup of the eproms from Keysight maybe?I am absolutely gutted and any help would be grately appreciated !

author: Smith
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 06:56:44 am
content: 1. Are you 100% sure the PSU is still ok?2. How did you remove the dust?3. Have you tried reseating IC's / cards?Software issues can have a lot of origins. Lots of times it's hardware related instead of eeprom / software related.Maybe you can give some more info. You get an error, so I guess it boots? What does it do, and what doesnt?

author: barney
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 11:32:55 am
content: Hi,Yes the power supply is fine all rails are good. I removed the dust with brushes and wipes after removing the cards one by one very carefully. The cards were pretty clean so i didnt actually do anything with them it was mainly around the back near the fan. I have tried reseating all the boards but not the ICs. The interface board was not quite pushed in all the way on one side but only by a millimeter. (Could this of caused the fault?)By the time the CRT warms up there is the error i mentioned above, it is highlighted and on top of a grid background. When i press the reset button (on the interface card) it seems to do a test screen with the option to abort (which doesnt do anything) and then back to the error screen. No other butons respond at all and no other text.I will carry on trying to reseat things and look for any bad connections and so on later todayThanks for your help.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 11:55:17 am
content: Sorry I am no direct help but it may be worth a try at the yahoo grouphttps://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/hp_agilent_equipment/infoDoes the scope respond to HPIB commands?

author: Smith
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 02:17:14 pm
content: You might want to take a look at the solder joint of the card connectors too.
Zebra/Eltron LP2844 generic power supply  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Starblazer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 03:48:11 am
content: First off, thanks for the forum and Dave for his videos.I have a power supply that has failed. It powers on just fine and prints slowly just fine. If you select the high speed printing, the printer works just fine until it needs to draw a bit of current.. and then it shuts off and resets. I replaced the power supply and the problem went away.I took the old power supply apart and I found the following. That one part labeled L1(right next to the LED) on the board doesn't look too good. Additionally, when I measured the two caps next to it.. they measured around 2500uf-3000uf each.So, in closing, I think to repair this I need to replace the two caps because they are reading too high. Does that L1 part look bad?Thanks!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 06:26:18 am
content: L1 is an inductor, to reduce the noise on the 18V supply to the printer. It is covered with that black shrink cover, and looks fine. If it fails the sleeve will be cooked off it or melted.Those 2 capacitors will need replacing, though you should also look at the underside and resolder the joints on the secondary rectifier diode, as it will by now be getting a dry joint on the one leg.A replacement power supply is expensive as OEM, but a cheap laptop power supply ( almost any one, it does not need to supply more than 2A) works well as a replacement.

author: Starblazer
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 08:05:10 am
content: Thanks for the reply! I've taken a peek, a view, and a stare at the bottom of the board and everything else seems to be in order.... well.... for the quality of this PSU. I'll be sure to resolder those joints though as a precaution while I'm in here.

author: kripton2035
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 08:37:06 am
content: the top cap is beginning bulking. needs a replacement.may be only this cap is faulty, but the second cap is nothing to replace too so !the inductor seems fine (by the picture...)
Adhesives for plastic (like Ipod) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: gooseEL34
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2015, 06:36:00 pm
content: Ok. I have replaced my iPod 2nd gen battery and was wondering what people use as a replacement adhesive for plastic parts.For example, the white plastic ends of the iPod mini mate against two metal plates. There is an adhesive that can be rubbed off with one's thumb (it balls up). Sort of gummy, like rubber cement.What are you guys using in this situation as a replacement?

author: FrankenPC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 19, 2015, 09:53:38 pm
content: I did an EBAY search for iPhone repair tape. There's a lot to choose from.http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xiphone+repair+tape.TRS0&_nkw=iphone+repair+tape&_sacat=0

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 19, 2015, 09:56:40 pm
content: Quote from: FrankenPC on February 19, 2015, 09:53:38 pmThat black tape is weak. Quiet often parts come off after some time. Sekisui tape is much stronger.http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=iphone+repair+tape&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsekisui.TRS0&_nkw=sekisui&_sacat=0Don't bother about it being advertised as thermal conductive tape by many sellers, it's not according to the datasheet.

author: gooseEL34
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 11:17:44 pm
content: I have used the 3m black tape before with varying results.This actually looks more like a liquid that is smeared onto the part and dries but remains tacky and rubbery. I do not think it is a tape at all.Thanks for the suggestions, though

author: gfiber
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 01, 2015, 02:31:20 am
content: I build covert surveillance cameras and for holding the camera window in place I use Bron Killer Red doublesided tape. It is very thin, holds the wondow on the box during summer and winter without fail. It just needs to be applied to a smooth surface as it has no thickness. The window is very hard to remove and I'd bet it will do the job on the ipod maybe too well.http://www.brontapes.com/killer-red-tape/?gclid=CNPSo5uOhsQCFQpffgodhKcASg
A4tech X7 Gaming mouse - dead with one hit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Vancata
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2015, 10:27:28 pm
content: Hello folks.I have one of this "gaming" mouses that A4tech produce.Anyway will go straight to the cheese. I deleted one program that I had worked whole week and in a moment of depression I throw my fist on the mouse. (Ofcourse after the event I managed to restore the lost code with some 3th part program for data recovery).Anyway after this not so critical hit in my opinion the mouse totally died. No "mode" LED-s flashing, no usb detection when plugged in to the PC, no red optical led at the optical lens flashing either.-At first I thought It might be some physical damage (connector, element felt from its pad on the pcb or something). Anyway after checking the whole system everything on the PCB looked fine. Did resoldered few things that looked crappy weaved on the board but with out any result.On second look i measured the voltage on this Sonix SN8F2253BSG 8 bit MCU. It got its 5v on pin 20 VDDm and its GND but it wasnt working at all. Got the Xout frequency of the outside crystal too. Anyway tomorrow will check the datasheet more deeply, but its seems this MCU died because of mechanical "hit" that was transferred trough the plastic case of the mouse directly to the IC of the controller.I thought its not so easy to kill this days IC with mechanical stress but It seems nothing is really impossibleWould be great if you share your professional advice's with meNow I'm kinda happy from this situation because I have something to play with

author: BlueBill
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2015, 10:37:12 pm
content: Seems like you need a new mouse and a backup solution.

author: Vancata
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 10:38:07 am
content: Already got other mouse (maybe have like 5 more mouses from my cousin, he used to play a lot of games) and the file is restored too.Anyway was just wondering if I can use the sensing block to run my own project for X and Y coordination. Anyway couldn't find anything for there A6010 B1028C Sensing IC.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 11:08:59 am
content: A4tech is a pretty junky brand

author: MadTux
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 01:34:43 pm
content: Check and change the quartz crystal. My mouse also died a few times when playing Quake. Seems like most mouses don't like rapid movements and occasional rage when loosing

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 02:25:27 pm
content: Quote from: Vancata on February 26, 2015, 10:27:28 pmmy "pro" advice is get few meters of rope and hang it somewhere overhead. in a moment of depression, get something around like dso, cc/cv psu, your smartphone, laptop, smart lcd tv etc and hang it there the rope. and then throw your fist on. you'll be happier more than ever for the repair job and will have a lot to learn.
Determine max voltage input of Bluetooth headset hm1100? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: salil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 06:49:28 am
content: I'm trying to find out what the maximum input voltage is that Samsung HM1100 Bluetooth headset can safely handle via the battery terminals.Is there anyway to determine this without a schematic or any documentation? (I couldn't find any)The HM1100 has a single cell li-ion battery which I want to replace with a power supply, but all I have is a 5v power supply, so I'm wondering if I can get by feeding it 5v without killing it (and not needing a step down converter)? The cell is about 4.2v fully charged, but the 5v power supply I have is 5-5.5v. Any thoughts?Ps: I'm not using the hm1100 as a headset, just using the circuit for activating a garage opener.

author: AndyC_772
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 07:18:55 am
content: Quote from: salil on January 28, 2015, 06:49:28 amYou could buy a large number of them, set them up with power supplies of different voltages, then run them for a long period of time and note which ones carry on working and which ones dieAn easier way might be to put a silicon diode or two in series between the power supply and the device.

author: aveekbh
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2015, 04:21:35 pm
content: If it charges using USB, can you connect the 5V supply to it? I'm a little unsure if you can connect to it while it's charging.Are you using the garage door hack fromhttp://hackaday.com/2011/06/15/an-even-simpler-smartphone-garage-door-opener/?

author: salil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 10:54:08 am
content: Well, I think I found out the hard way, accidentally ran 5v into the HM1100 and it no longer functions :/ Oh well, fortunately I bought two. Just FYI for anyone, don't feed it 5v directly to the battery terminals!
Need help finding a special ribbon cable for Gateway LP2407 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: salil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2014, 04:38:34 am
content: See attached for the ribbon cable, all I need is one. Does anyone know where I can find this? Any help is greatly appreciated.FYI: It's an extremely fragile FFC used inside a Gateway LP2407 24" LCD monitor to connect the capacitive backlit controls on the side of the LCD.PS: I traced over the "7" in photoshop because there was glare in the photo, making it unreadable.PS#2: I think I see this cable on eBay but the cheapest one is like $10. This monitor isn't worth a lot.The pitch of the FFC is 0.5mm and the length needed is ~70cm (more is okay).I cannot seem to find a long enough cable. The only option seems to be buying some short 0.5mm FFC cables and then using 0.5mm pitch DIP adapters...hoping those fit in the monitor's case.

author: niflheimer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2014, 12:23:45 pm
content: since it's just six tracks I'd suggest just using some magnet wire in case you can't find it.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2014, 04:33:40 pm
content: I agree, 6 tracks are not exactly hard to replace with 6 thin wires soldered on the board and bundled with either the existing braid or with some thin sleeving. and if you need a disconnect you put a salvaged 6 pin or so connector in the middle somewhere that will not get in the way.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 06, 2014, 05:17:11 pm
content: Just search flex cable with the same pin pitch and count. Should be pretty generic one. Guess you could get such for <$3 including shipping.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 06, 2014, 05:21:37 pm
content: Just for example 5 pcs for $1.52 don't know if pin pitch and length is right of course.http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-280mm-Length-6-Pins-1-0mm-Pitch-FFC-FPC-Ribbon-Flat-Cable-Forward-Direction-/180991705280?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a23f240c0

author: salil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2015, 09:49:07 am
content: Quote from: wraper on November 06, 2014, 05:21:37 pmI managed to measure pitch after much squinting - it appears to be 0.5mm! I actually ordered this FFC which was listed as 0.5mm pitch when ordered it, but upon arrival a month later, I found it's actually 1.0mm pitch:http://www.amazon.com/Water-0-5mm-Pitch-Flexible-Cable/dp/B00P26I1VW/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1424859214&sr=1-10&keywords=0.5mm+ffc+6+pinUPDATE: Fixed! I couldn't find a long enough 0.5mm pitch FFC so I hacked together 2 of these:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H8PCW06/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Flir One Personal Infrared Camera for iphone5 - no green light blinking. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: cctaco
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 23, 2015, 01:09:43 am
content: Hello everyone my first post here.I have a flir one that was working well last night.Iphone 5 os8.1.3 and latest firmware and app for flir one via itunes.It has steady green battery charge indicator which must be fully charge because it now charges the iphone.latest version allows the phone to charge after flir one is fully charged up.But when launch the app and it says put lens in middle postition make sure there is blinking green light. There is none.It there any reset for the flir one and how does one preform the reset?

author: cctaco
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 23, 2015, 03:11:17 pm
content: I was givin these instruction from flirone support to reset the infrared cameraThere is a pinhole reset button on the bottom of the FLIR ONE near the charging port. Please complete the following steps :1. Power on FLIR ONE ie, move the shutter arm to the middle position2. Press in and hold the reset button for 30 seconds3. keep the FLIR ONE powered on for 24 hours to allow the battery to completely drain4. Charge the FLIR ONE for 1-2 hours.5. Connect the FLIR ONE to your iphone 5 to test function
Help identifying a component please. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Maddan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 20, 2015, 06:24:08 am
content: Hi, and welcome me to your awesome forum. I've always found the answers before but have had to sign up today to ask for some help.I have this component, I'm not sure what it is, from a 1992 Toyota 1UZ engine ECU. I pulled the component when cleaning up after some leaking electrolytic caps but two of the pins fell out. I wasn't being rough, they came out with the desoldering gun.Obviously if I can't find a replacement then the entire ECU will be scrapped.It's 24mm x 6mm x 14mm with about a 1.6-1.7mm pin spacing. 12 pins total, two missing in the pics.

author: Richard Crowley
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2015, 06:52:26 am
content: It certainly looks like a full-custom (BrEnglish: "bespoke") potted, hybrid module. Unless you can identify the part number from the context (manufacturer name/model of wherever it came out of), and they documented it (which seems unlikely) it is the classic "black box".

author: JVR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2015, 06:56:37 am
content: Working real slow with a scalpel/dremel you should be able to get solderable patches on those missing leads. Then wire it up with modwire and pot it up.

author: JVR
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2015, 06:57:05 am
content: Or if all fails,www.perfectpower.com

author: Maddan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 20, 2015, 07:22:11 am
content: I thought that may be the case being a proprietary Toyota/Denso thing.I'll have a go at surgery and see where I end up.Thanks a lot for your help guys. I appreciate it.

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2015, 01:24:31 am
content: Quote from: JVR on February 20, 2015, 06:56:37 amThis works well. I've even done something similar with QFP IC's. You have nothing to lose.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2015, 02:24:46 am
content: Surgery is fine, but before you go to the effort, verify that the pins actually connect to anything. The fact that they came out so easily may be the root cause of your ECU failure, but it may also indicate dummy pins.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2015, 08:53:05 am
content: Quote from: Maddan on February 20, 2015, 06:24:08 amDo you think the pins were corroded through as a result of the leaking caps?

author: wagon
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2015, 10:18:26 am
content: Quote from: tautech on February 21, 2015, 08:53:05 amI see that regularly! Tracks, vias and legs all rot from cap juice.
Repair of Analogue Music Synthesiser - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 19, 2015, 07:51:25 am
content: FYI Retro Electro Porn!http://www.abc.net.au/news/2015-02-19/rare-doctor-who-synthesizer-ems-synthi-100-restored/6145180Definitely an old analogue Tek on top as well.
Chinese Super 200P MOSFET welder repair -  Manufacterer: Yangzhou DJ ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: poxxxy
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 17, 2015, 11:27:54 pm
content: Hi guys,I bought this 3-1 unit from ebay faulty, thinking it might be an easy repair. However the unit outputs nothing at the terminals in form of an arc, also no HF start noise coming from the unit or spark at the spark gap.I've had the PSU board out and it all looks ok, I attempted swapping out an LM324N Op amp on the front control board after seeing someone had a similar problem and claimed this fixed it... no dice.I wish I had the knowledge to reverse engineer the unit and get it back up and running...I've heard of other problems with these units where the OC current light is illuminated, however in this case the unit appears to power on, fans run, relays appear to click when switching between TIG/MMA/Plasma... but the ammeter output reading remains at 000 on the front display. I'm a bit lost on where to even look in the unit at the moment...I'm wondering if the machine is basically junk now really as I can't find a similar unit to test/compare against. Perhaps I could construct a new machine out of some of the components in there but it certainly sounds daunting.Some pics of the unit here:http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/poxxxy/library/LTS%20UK%20Super%20200P%20Multi%20Purpose%20Welder?sort=3&page=1Video of the fault here:

author: poot36
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2015, 07:11:51 am
content: I would start by checking that the power supply is supplying the correct voltages to all of the components in the welder. Try and find the chip that drives the MOSFETs for the HV section and see if it is getting power and if it is check that the safety shutdown inputs on it are not been activated. Check all MOSFETs for shorts with your multimeter on ohms range and then if that passes test each MOSFET on the diode range and see if you get numbers that make sense based on the internal body diode (if they have one) and if your meter can supply enough voltage to turn on the gate of the MOSFET you should be able to measure a very low resistance or diode check number between source and drain of the MOSFET. This is assuming that the gate terminal does not have a very strong pulldown or pullup resistor attached to it.
Repairing a computer mouse - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: electricviolin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 17, 2015, 08:55:38 pm
content: I have a computer mouse I am trying to repair. It uses some strange IC that says "A2636G3" on it. Here is the datasheet:http://www.teleic.com/pdf/om02-spec040210.pdfAnyway, when I plug it into my computer, I get a message that says windows cannot recognize device blah blah blahIt also has some leds on it - when I plug it in, one of the leds breifly flashes. The led for the actual optical functionality never turns on. Any thoughts?

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 17, 2015, 09:09:05 pm
content: Broken USB cable, my mouse does that every year, just grab a "new" usb cable, cut one end and solder it to the mouse pcb.

author: electricviolin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 17, 2015, 10:17:47 pm
content: Yeah, that seems like my first course of action. I connected my arduino to my laptop and just used the ground from there and connected that to the solder blob labeled ground (it really was a blob). It may just be a bad solder joint or something, but the mouse powered up then. My computer still didn't recognize it, but maybe once I replace the whole cable it will work again.

author: electr_peter
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 17, 2015, 10:28:11 pm
content: Before changing the cable, check all solder joints on the mouse PCB. I had a mouse with intermittent problems because of poor quality soldering - few touches with soldering iron sorted it out.
Tektronix 2901 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Docholiday
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 04:39:33 pm
content: Does anybody know where and part number for the neon power lamp indicator and the power switch too?Thank you,Nicholas

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 06:04:18 pm
content: I can look into it, but they are probably Dialco lightbulbs, incandescent on my 2901.They are like "grain of wheat" bulbs with a moulded plastic lens on top. The colored lens/bulb unscrews from the base.

author: Docholiday
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 06:06:16 pm
content: That would help me! Thank you.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 06:19:56 pm
content: This is the thingy I mean, my plastic lens cap broke off years ago.

author: Docholiday
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 06:24:31 pm
content: That is exactly what I need! Now where to find one? Or perhaps a subsitution? Can you check the voltsge on it?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 06:41:29 pm
content: They will be 5V 50mA lamps, so you can replace them with a LED and a series resistor in those places where it is fed with a constant voltage, and with a shunt resistor added in those places where they are in series and driven with a current. Tip for the LED is to use a red or orange LED for those with red or orange caps, and green for the green caps, with white for clear ( or choose a LED colour) and run them at under 5mA, otherwise they will be too bright.I used to replace a lot of soldered in dial illumination lamps, so still have a small box of the assorted grain of wheat lamps around, in 5V, 12V and 28V varieties. As it is a mixed box I test before using, using a variable supply and a 10R resistor.If you really cannot get one you can transplant a LED and a 1/8W resistor into those little lamp units after taking the glass out. difficult, but doable using a very small 3mm LED.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 06:45:24 pm
content: Quote from: Docholiday on February 27, 2015, 06:24:31 pmPatience, grasshopper. I'm pretty good at finding parts, but even I need to break for lunch sometimes...It's gonna be a tough one, since these old companies no longer exist. You can try to fit a LED in there. I did that with a 191, but it's bigger.I measure 3.3V DC at the bulb with a meter.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 06:54:29 pm
content: tek p/n 150-0045-00http://sphere.bc.ca/test/tek-parts/tekleds.htmlno pic though, email Sphere.

author: Docholiday
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2015, 07:17:09 pm
content: Thank you so much Alex and Sean! I am on my way to restoring this 2901. One last item is the power toggle switch. I just started to look for one but having a hard time finding one that small.nif you hapoen to know where let me know.Again Thank You for your help and taking your valuable time for me Alex and Sean.Sincerely,Nicholas