hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
industrial rs485 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Mahyar-jafari
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 23, 2018, 09:21:51 am
content: hi guysIm triynig to design industrial rs485 circuit ,I was asked to design Under the conditions below For safety and isolation:-Line voltage to RS485 and M-bus and Digital Input: 6 KV- RS485 and Digital Input to M-bus: 2 KVWhat exactly does it mean?What should I do to satisfy this requirement?

author: jbb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2018, 10:07:01 am
content: OK, this is about groups of signals and the strength of isolation between them.I suggest you sketch out the different groups of signals and indicate the isolation required between them. That might clarity matters. Also, these look like surge levels, which have a big impact on clearances. You should also determine the appropriate operating voltage levels, which have a big impact on creepage and materials selection.I can say that 6kV isolation could be difficult. What’s happening with the power supply?Once you know what isolation thingies (highly technical term), you can use the appropriate standard to turn the isolation levels into creepage and clearance rules for PCBs, enclosures etc.

author: CM800
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2018, 10:29:35 am
content: I can suggest that In terms of RS485, the IC 'ADM2587EBRWZ' is a good place to start.It's used in some of the products we sell, extremely reliable, isolated etc. Probibly one of the more robust chips on the market.

author: Mahyar-jafari
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 25, 2018, 04:11:59 pm
content: Can you explain more? What is the concept of isolation?Where is it needed?In addition to IC 'ADM2587EBRWZ', which circuits should I use for isolation?

author: BNElecEng
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2018, 04:26:10 pm
content: Hi Mahyar,Take a look at this link:http://www.ti.com/lit/wp/slyy063/slyy063.pdfIt gives a good explanation about isolation, what it is and why it's needed.Once you've read it, go back and read the data sheet of the ADM2587EBRWZ IC, it should hopefully make more sense. I can also recommend it for industrial RS485 applications. Page 18 of the datasheet gives you an idea of a typical application circuit.Hope it helps
Industrial sensor interfaces (like HART) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 01:21:01 pm
content: What's out there in therms of industrial sensor interfaces ?Besides 0..5 volt 0..10 volt, 4..20mA RS422 RS485 Modbus , HART and others ?Does anyone have info on HART ? i know about the hardware, its the software level...

author: retrolefty
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2015, 08:50:23 pm
content: Well there is decent overview of HART at wikipediahttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highway_Addressable_Remote_Transducer_ProtocolIt was designed to work with existing industrial 4-20 mA current loops so lowering the cost of entry with existing plant instrumentation.Fieldbus is another popular industrial network/protocol.

author: dom0
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2015, 02:01:44 pm
content: - HART- Fieldbus- Profibus- Modbus- Arcnet (yes, it still exists)- AS-interface / AS-I- Interbus- all the proprietary shit, NIH-syndrome stuff etc.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2015, 02:31:14 pm
content: For diagnostics and local deivce programming sometimes:CanbusK/L lineKWP2000J1708 CanAnd Getting back to the sensor interfacesDuty cycle10-50mAfrequencyAs for the others like HART, be warned, once you get the protocol, like can bus, most of the manufacturer specific codes are still only likely to be found from a man in the middle attack with an actual device,phase (mostly like dutycycle, where it shifts when its outputing high)-7 to 15V (some funky industrial Servo's that are just common enough to be annoying)

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2015, 03:07:45 pm
content: Modbus over RS485 I'd cheap and easy to implement and there is an open-source free implantation that is easy to port to any sensible microcontroller.Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk

author: Frant
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2015, 12:25:25 am
content: Quote from: free_electron on June 26, 2015, 01:21:01 pmHART is an "open" protocol (whatever that means), but its documentation is NOT available for free. Official protocol specifications can be bought from the HART Communication Foundation (hartcomm.org). The price was about $900 last time I checked.

author: lapm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2015, 01:19:25 am
content: Lots of Profibus/AS-I systems where i work... Seems somewhat popular systems in my country..
Industrial socket for micro SD card - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Sruk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2014, 07:18:52 am
content: Dear All,I've tried using the search and couldn't find if this topic was the case of any previous discussion. If You know please point it out.I'm working on a industrial grade device and I would appreciate if somebody can suggest an industrial grade push/push or push/pull micro SD socket.Many socket manufacturers that I looked up can only guarantee operating temperature from -25°C to +85°C. On the other hand, as we know, industrial grade component should be in the range of -40°C to 100°C. For my application, the tolerable range would be to from -40°C to +85°C.Thx very much!

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2014, 07:29:04 am
content: These guys provide industrial grade cards (-40°C to +85°C):http://delkinoem.com/microsd-industrial.htmlon their pdf they mention to contact them for a connector source:Quotehttp://www.delkinoem.com/oem-engineering-specs-product-docs/microSD-PR-2010.pdf

author: Sruk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2014, 07:42:53 am
content: @migulevpI did just that few days ago but their generous help is insufficient to me.They suggested GCT MEM2066 socket that is pretty tricky regarding mechanical safety and stability.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2014, 07:54:39 am
content: -30 to +85:http://www.mouser.com/new/JAE-Electronics/jae-st11-H-memorycards/maybe you can contact the manufacturer (JAE) and see if they have something a bit better.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2014, 12:22:15 am
content: Industrial is to 85deg C. Look for automotive for a temperature range to about 100 deg C.
Industrial soldering Handbook - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: salvodi89
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 08:48:26 am
content: Hello Everyone,I'm looking for a good handbook for soldering and PCB assembly in industry.I'm interested in particular in hand soldering/reworking, solder inspection.Does anyone had experience with that? Is there any good book as reference?Thanks!

author: robgambrill
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 04:43:40 pm
content: This might be a start. NASA has this guide....http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/doctree/canceled/NS87393-Ch5.pdfIt is no longer in effect, but it shows requirements for soldered electrical connections as formally required in NASA equipment. From the foreward...This Standard provides a baseline for NASA project offices to use when preparing or evaluatingprocess procedures for the manufacture of mission hardware or mission critical ground supportequipment.

author: 128er
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 05:02:21 pm
content: And here is some more NASA stuff. Not only about soldering techniques:http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/frameset.html

author: salvodi89
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 05:50:00 pm
content: Thank you!Both the links you provided are really amazing.That's the kind of things you expect from nasa... but... how did you find these things?

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2015, 05:59:19 pm
content: Mr. Scott (James Doohan) syndrome.

author: salvodi89
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2015, 02:13:26 pm
content: I found these book:Soldering Handbook For Printed Circuits and Surface Mountingby Howard H. MankoSMT Soldering Handbookby Rudolf StraussDid anyone had read one of these books?What do you think?

author: ivaylo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2015, 06:29:45 am
content: There is thishttp://www.elektor.com/mastering-surface-mount-technologyby a forum member here...

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2015, 06:49:01 am
content: Quote from: robgambrill on April 26, 2015, 04:43:40 pmWow, that takes me back. We did a unit to those standards back when I was at TAFE 20 years ago. I still remember the little lead formers and clippers required to ensure the lead was appropriately trimmed prior to soldering so as to not leave any raw copper exposed. That course did my soldering quite a bit of good actually as it taught you the basics of heat transfer and how to make the most appropriate joint in the minimum of time to limit heat input.
Industrial vs. commercial grade parts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jmaja
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2012, 10:45:29 am
content: What is the actual difference between these? When should industrial ones be used?E.g. I have used LTC2415-1 and my next design may be used outside 0-70 C, thus I was going to choose the industrial grade version of it. But then I saw the review of Fluke 28 Series II with a photo, which shows LTC2435-1 (20 bit sister to 24 bit 2415-1) without mark "I". Thus the most industrial Fluke multimeter does not use the industrial grade version. Why should I?http://www.eevblog.com/images/Fluke28pcbbottom2.jpgJoakim

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 07, 2012, 10:47:15 am
content: extended or military range parts are a minimum of -40 to +125C, you have to remember that the temperature inside boxes etc can be well over ambient. there are also ranges of -55 to +150C for some parts

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2012, 11:11:00 am
content: It's possible that you can get i.e. 75*C inside some control device, but rather unlikely that a multimeter's internals would be exposed to such conditions.

author: jmaja
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2012, 11:25:21 am
content: The example part LTC2415/35 has the only difference in the absolute maximum values, 0-70 C vs -40-85 C. Fluke is using the 0-70 C part, but still allowing use down to -15 C and even to -40 C for 20 minutes.

author: Neilm
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 07, 2012, 04:20:42 pm
content: Quite often a manufacturer will use a commercial part if it is one that they use else where, either because the designers haven't realised that this part is the lesser temperature spec, or that they have decided to take a risk with the lesser spec - "it'll probably work well enough"Neil
Industry standard current rating for thermostat relays - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: LittleRain
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2023, 02:12:16 am
content: I am currently creating a smart thermostat for my home, and am thinking of maybe doing a small production run to sell.Its a 24VAC system, which I measured about 30mA on the white heat wire, give or take.The relay I used is more than capable rated at 900mA, but just to be safe I want to know what the maximum current I can expect individually on the Heat/Cool/Fan wires, for all other systems out there in the wild.I also plan to revise the board with relays with a smaller package to help slim down the enclosure, so really I'm trying to figure out how low can I reasonably go.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2023, 11:13:33 pm
content: If you want ultimate compactness you can look at Nest or other IOT thermostats:https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nest+Learning+Thermostat+2nd+Generation+Teardown/13818No relays, a few FETs and a fuse instead.Older style:https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Lennox+Y0349+Thermostat+Teardown/140716

author: LittleRain
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2023, 09:02:50 pm
content: Oh wow, the nest is about half the size as I thought it was.The components used seem like total overkill, but maybe it does more than I think it does.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 31, 2023, 09:43:56 pm
content: Quote from: LittleRain on July 31, 2023, 09:02:50 pmEach output appears to have at least:- 1 diode/TVS (marked "AT")- 2 FETs- 1 fuse- bunch of resistors and capacitors- 1 diode and inductor on the top side?The fuse is necessary if anything is accidentally connected to 120V (maybe the TVS is included in that). The two FETs are necessary if you want to switch an AC signal.Not sure what the other stuff does, some of it will be to draw power parasitically.
Inexpensive DC-DC converter/SMPS design idea and suitable topologies  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Md Mubdiul Hasan
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2021, 01:51:01 am
content: Dear Sir,Kindly recommend me a suitable design idea of DC-DC converter with input 250-650VDC , output 24V ,5A/ 5V 3A/ 12V, 2A.Take a look similar product here,https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/emobility/power-electronics/dc-dc-converters/eaton-dcdc-converter-data-sheet-brochure-emob0008-en-us.pdfhttps://www.bosch-mobility-solutions.com/en/solutions/power-electronics/high-voltage-dc-dc-converter-generation-3evo/
Inexpensive Dual Channel Digital Thermometer--HVAC monitoring... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: cliffyk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 16, 2020, 11:15:22 pm
content: We recently had some issues with our HVAC system underperforming--turned out electronically controlled blower motor in the evaporator/air handler was running slow. This was readily apparent when I monitored the temperature drop "across" the intake and outlet plenums (it was 25° F, should have been 15°-18°)Looking for a permanent monitoring solution I ran acrossthis $20 dual channel digital thermometer on Amazon--a great deal, with the instrument and two type K thermocouples.So, using FreeCAD and my Elegoo Mars 3D printer I "printed" a couple of ferrules for mounting the thermocouples into the fiberglass board plenums:FreeCAD screenshot (the flange is 17 mm dia x 1.5 mm, the tube is 5 mm dia x 75 mm w/a 3 mm bore):Mounted in the inlet plenum:I also, again using FreeCAD made a mounting cradle for the instrument.With this installed I can easily monitor both the inlet (T2) and outlet (T1) temperatures:And the delta (without all that nasty math, using the instrument's T1-T2 function):Upon receipt I validated the meter and probes at room temperature and in ice and boiling water baths--they tracked perfectly.Not bad for $20...
Inexpensive FM blocking high-pass filter? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: chicken
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2015, 02:07:16 am
content: I'm looking for a high-pass filter in a small SMD package that blocks FM radio stations and very low insertion loss at 162 MHz. The only readily available product I found so far is HFCV-145+ from Mini-Circuits. Seems to fit my specs close enough but $3.99 per tiny SMD passive bugs my inner cheapskate.Are there any other vendors to check? The usual suspects (Murata, Johanson, ..) seem to have abandoned anything below 900 MHz.

author: mathias
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2015, 06:34:00 am
content: If you found something at Mini Circuits, go for it! They make quality products, and for 3.99$ you can't spend your time designing something yourself.But to answer your question, Coilcraft also makes filters, e.g.:http://www.coilcraft.com/smlc.cfm

author: chicken
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2015, 11:10:19 pm
content: Thank you for your input. I ordered a few samples from Mini-Circuits.
Inexpensive standard or custom magnetics / core laminations for DIY projects? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: evb149
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2017, 02:08:18 am
content: Hi,I'm just curious what resources people have used or come across regarding inexpensive (I'm thinking AliExpress / eBay levels) transformer core laminations for DIY sorts of projects?I'm aware that cut / finished core laminations must be pretty inexpensive if one does any kind of volume ordering of a custom or standard shape, but I've never shopped for a standard or custom one (usually just finished cores) and I'm more interested in low volume DIY stuff at the moment which is usually harder to find at low cost if custom.What about amorphous ribbon and planar / other ferrites, any suggestions on good inexpensive DIY suppliers other than of course what is on offer from DigiKey and other usual distributors. I haven't tried eBay/AliExpress and I suspect there are some, so I'm looking for more specific recommendations as to good vendors rather than "yeah it is possible". But mostly I was wondering about custom cut or less usual shape laminations since those are much less likely to be "off the shelf" on eBay I assume.Standard / custom / varied pole pieces, Re magnets?

author: Mr. Scram
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2017, 02:54:10 am
content: Quote from: evb149 on March 30, 2017, 02:08:18 amGreat question. Personally, I am also highly interested in the associated costs of acustom jobby, or the feasibility of doing it yourself.

author: John at the Falls
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2017, 03:05:59 am
content: Our towns recyling program lets us remove items for our own use. I have lots of microwave oven transformers that I have rewound for another project.You can also order Ferrite cores or rings on eBay if those would work for you.Our town of 1500 people/ 600 households discard 2 microwave ovens a week on the average. Half of them still work when plugged in. Those are interesting numbers about how we in th US use our resources.

author: calexanian
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2017, 04:53:09 am
content: For standard E I laminations I buy from Temple Steels. They sell commercially only. As far as ribbon or what we call tape wound magnetic metals still sell them, but here again only in quantity. I would recommend contacting your nearest transformer manufacturer and trying to buy some of whatever they have too much of. Let them know its for experimentation and you might get a tour of how they do it.
Infineon BSC0902NSI Datasheet Rdson Min - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: anishkgt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2020, 11:50:19 pm
content: Hey all,i am trying to find the MOSFETs minimum on resistance for the Inifineon BSC0902NSI(https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/BSC0902NSI_Rev_2.1.pdf?folderId=db3a304313b8b5a60113cee8763b02d7&fileId=db3a30433072cd8f01308ea027703424). This is for the calculation on page 17 of the ADP1850 (https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/ADP1850.pdf) buck converter.I can't seem to make sense out of the part where it says "SETTING THE CURRENT SENSE GAIN" on the same page. I have the values calculated for Vcsmin, Vcsmax and Vcompmax with 0.516, 0.93 and 0.93 respectively but how is the Rcsg determined with these ? Well it clearly says 'select' but on what basis ? The Rdson max is 0.0038mOhm based Diagram 9 in the mosfet's datsheet.
Infineon h-bridge driver cheap drop-in replacement? (EG Micro) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: nuclearcat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 14, 2020, 08:31:18 am
content: Noticed there is a lot of drop-in replacement for many infineon half-bridge drivers?https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Driver-ICs_EG27324_C189546.htmlFor example EG2113 looks very similar to IRS2113.I'm curious if they are better or worse? Did anybody considered using them or any feedback about this company?(Seems i posted in wrong section this first. Last try, sorry for cross-posting.)

author: rvalente
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2020, 11:22:25 am
content: When checking mosfet/igbt drivers, the current and the rise and fall times are very critical, also.The thing with half bridge or high+low side driver, is the high side, the bootstrap capacitor is tricky and I would believe the IC design to handle 600V or even, 1200V would be very very critical. IRF (now infineon) have been doing drivers before I was born, I fortunately worked for them from 2010 to 2014 and I must say, guys there where really sharp.So unless your product is very cost sensitive and being such a critical part, I would stick to infineon/ir/ixys/microchip/on/fairchild and other major player

author: Siwastaja
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 14, 2020, 01:09:19 pm
content: For half-bridge bootstrap drivers, also compare how much negative voltage the SW node can take, while staying operational. If not specified, be extra careful. This may be way more important than the speed parameter, defining whether the device survives or blows up.

author: nuclearcat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 14, 2020, 11:07:53 pm
content: My problem was that Infineon drivers with UVLO for high-side driver cost like wing from space shuttle. And i have ESP32 driving this driver/bridge. When you have "MCU with internet", it is possible that it might get stuck in logical 1, discharge bootstrap capacitor and make magic smoke, when power MOSFET will go to linear mode.But seems i found alternative, LM5106, it looks like have all i need, without going to risk for new vendors.
InfiniiVision timebase - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alanambrose
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 07:53:23 pm
content: Hi,When I take, e.g. a GPSDO-smooth 10MHz signal (which I'm fairly sure is <1ppm), into my MSO-X-3024A it reports the frequency as 10MHz with a s.d. of ~22KHz. That is, ~2,200 ppm!That is, b....x. That is, an elephant's dick.Same thing if you take a 10MHz sine or square from its own wavegen.Is this normal - I thought the timebase was meant to be ~30ppm p.a.I think the previous model had provision for an external ref - I see they've dropped that in this model. Think it's possible to feed an ext ref in - presumably there's a TCXO somewhere in there?Alan

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2015, 07:09:19 am
content: What's the guaranteed jitter of both instruments?

author: cyr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2015, 08:53:44 am
content: I don't think that is because of the time base, just the way it measures frequency by looking at relatively low-res sampled data.

author: LA7SJA
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2015, 09:02:17 am
content: Do you have have the "Digital voltmeter (DVM) option with 3-digit voltage and 5-digit frequency counter measurements"?I belive this scope only has a software frequency counter.My DSO-X2024 with the complete SW bundle (all options enabled) have the same "problem" i.e. lack off hardware frequency counter accuracy. The frequency is calculated from the cursor measurments so it is not very acurate.Johan-Fredrik

author: alanambrose
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2015, 10:30:28 am
content: >>> I belive this scope only has a software frequency counter.Duh! - more fool me for thinking that these features were anything other than software fluff.

author: georges80
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 19, 2015, 07:32:51 pm
content: I think you'll find that if you use the DVM option, the frequency display is considerably more accurate and stable and is hardware based. It displays a rock solid 10.000MHz measuring a square wave from my calibrated 33250A.When you add measurements or do a quick action display then the data is based on the screen capture - so if there isn't a complete waveform then things like frequency are N/A.cheers,george.
infinite input impedance voltage measure circuit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2025, 11:05:15 am
content: I just scored a really coolPasco Scientific ES-9054B Electrometerit can measure voltage in 4 ranges, 3, 10, 30, 100Vit is a true infinite input impedance curcuit,its curcuit is quite simple and fully explained in a little video i made,https://youtu.be/8wf6zLt3fwMschematic is shown and explained at 8 mins

author: iMo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2025, 02:41:50 pm
content: If somebody is trying to simulate the input DC capacitive divider in that meter - below is a hint.Without the 1000T resistor LTspice will use its own, much lower value, it seems..Also I like the guide in the user manual on details how to order and replace the input dual MOSFET after you smoke it by a high input voltage during the experiments..PS: @Thomas: I like your videos much, but.. could you perhaps spend a second/two with still focusing your camera on the critical/exotic/special/topically_important parts such we may see their markings?

author: chilternview
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2025, 06:25:25 pm
content: Without a triax input socket, one might expect the BNC to have some leakage - even if of the order of femtoamps - so maybe not quite 'infinite impedance'.

author: oz2cpu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 02, 2025, 06:37:45 pm
content: thanks Imo, it is terrible with all cams i get, they auto focus and handle anti shake perfect, when stuff is 40-80cm away or more.but every time i need to go close to show details, they all go crasy , make all things shake and out of focus,my budget is not huge, so i dont know how to solve it at the moment.glad you likes the schematic, I think a few things can be "stolen" in the future from thisin case anyone needs something with crasy high input impedance
Info about tact switch - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2013, 12:01:15 am
content: I have found a very nice tact switch to use in my project for front panel buttons. Do you know model / generic name / datasheet link / manufacturer for those? I've found them on local auction site, but seller doesn't know / doesn't want to share any details as to where he's got them from.

author: PbFoot
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2013, 03:19:58 am
content: Hi,It looks like it could be an Omron B3F series.-PbFoot

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2013, 04:19:04 am
content: Omron ones normally have a metal top and 4 black dots.I just went through digikey and couldn't see it. (I didn't check the ones without pics)If they wont tell you who makes it it's probably a custom job and the manufacture produced a few 1000 more than required so is selling them off.Or they could be initial manufacturing runs while they setup the machine.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2013, 08:19:13 am
content: The top looks like theTL3315. Various Chinese companies also make similar-looking switches. Are there any identifying marks on them?

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2013, 09:01:54 am
content: Can't tell right now, I expect package to arrive today or on monday. I can then check for any manufacturer mark. On the other hand i wanted datasheet mainly to draw the footprint and 3d model, which i can do without datasheet when i have switches in my hands.Only dimensions given on auction site are 12x12mm (industry standard i guess) and the height excluding the leads is 4mm. I don't know how accurate this 4mm really is, because seller said they don't have any detailed datasheet, which means they have measured the switch themselves. My best bet would be that in reality it's 4.3mm as the vast majority of buttons are.
info on MDY 4B065B 1701t chip that creates audio for talking smoke alarm - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dentaku
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 23, 2019, 09:03:05 pm
content: I've been messing with a KIDDE Model P301B-CA 10 year sealed lithium photoelectric smoke alarm with voice alert.I've been able to get it to play what I believe is all the audio samples it contains by connecting an Arduino to it and shiftOut data to the Data and Clock pins of the chip that puts out the audio. I've found voice alerts for Carbon Monoxide even though this is just a smoke alarm so obviously they've been smart and made one chip that can be used in different products.This chip hasMDY 4B065B 1701twritten on it but I can't find any information online.Pins 1 and 2 are connected directly to the ground plane.Pins 3 and 4 are connected together and put out PWM audio to the speaker.Pins 5 and 6 have a tiny cap to ground then go through a 5R1 resistor to a transistor of some sort. These pins have around 2.5V on themPin 7 is Clock and goes to a PIC16 but I cut the trace and connected it to an ArduinoPin 8 is Data and goes to a PIC16 but I cut the trace and connected it to an ArduinoIt looks like instead of just powering VCC all the time and controlling a latch or enable pin separately, they've connected VCC and the latch together and re-power it after the piezo busser is done doing it's loud alarm and enable the voice chip again because it would be useless to have it speak while the piezo is sounding anyway.Does anyone at least knowwhich manufacturer MDY is?
Info On Mystery Philips Caps - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: FourT6and2
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 28, 2018, 07:33:18 pm
content: Anybody know anything about these? They are supposedly ceramic. But I see them listed along with the Philips/Mullard "Tropical Fish" polyester caps on some online vendors. But the one pictured here are supposedly ceramic, 500v. Would love an actual model number or data sheet.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2018, 07:45:24 pm
content: Those are ceramic tube caps, vertical version. I remember them well, hope someone has an old databook lying around.

author: chris_leyson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2018, 08:54:07 pm
content: Philips "Pin-up" caps, haven't seen one of those in a long while. Designed in the eary 60's for machine insertion, maybe just a way to get a smaller footprint radial package. Also manufactured by Mullard."http://www.extra.research.philips.com/hera/people/aarts/_Philips%20Bound%20Archive/PTechReview/PTechReview-24-1962_63-041.pdf"

author: FourT6and2
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 28, 2018, 08:57:50 pm
content: Very cool, thanks.I wonder if I should use a few in a guitar amp build for treble/bright cacps or just frame this thing as art work?

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2018, 09:19:21 pm
content: Quote from: FourT6and2 on December 28, 2018, 08:57:50 pmAh, "pinup" capacitors, I'd forgotten that name. Please keep it, seeing it's complete it's worth saving.
infor transfromer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: kjn4685
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2014, 03:17:46 am
content: I need someone to help figure out how to drop the current of a transformer from 12v 3a to 12v 300a?I would appreciate any help. I am building a octopus current.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2014, 03:48:01 am
content: Quote from: kjn4685 on September 30, 2014, 03:17:46 amCould you try writing that in English?It's not at all possible to understand what you are trying to do.

author: kjn4685
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2014, 05:26:57 pm
content: I am building a octopus current oscilloscope test adapter. I have a 12v 3a transfromer but the schematics call for a 12v 300ma transfromer. So I would like to know if I could build a current that would take the 3as to 300ma.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2014, 05:31:52 pm
content: The 300mA is the minimal current the transformer has to supply. Anything bigger like the 3A you have should not be a problem, just use it.

author: kjn4685
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2014, 06:59:18 pm
content: I thank you very much and I appreciate the help.

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2014, 09:12:52 pm
content: to answer your question you would need to use a different transformer, the output current is based on the magnetic core.http://www.magnet.fsu.edu/education/tutorials/java/magneticshunt/You could actually add magnetic shunts. I would just use a fuse though. The benefit of using a smaller transformer is that if something short circuits you won't blow up the circuit.for instance, If you used a 3000A transformer something nasty would happen if a short happened.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2014, 10:24:34 pm
content: Quote from: SArepairman on September 30, 2014, 09:12:52 pmYes, you would trip the mains circuit breaker(A transformer that could deliver 3000 A from a 12 V secondary would draw 300 A at least from a 120 V primary. Or 150 A from a 240 V primary. The short circuit current would be vastly higher, something like putting a crowbar across the mains supply.)But leaving aside unfeasible transformers, there is no need to worry, the answer from PA0PBZ is fine. Using a slightly too large transformer in a hobby application is OK. The transformer will be slightly bulkier and heavier than it needs to be, but you can live with that for a one off construction if that is all you have to hand.
inFORM: 3D Display/Interaction of what? (not 3D Printer) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 26, 2013, 05:42:20 pm
content: someone updated in the fartbook, amazingly... caught my attention...http://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/mit-develops-inform-blows-mind-rendering-digital-stuff-3d-physically/3d printer is around the corner, but this 900 motors display is not a hobby friendly yet. amazing yes! but even we can make it to sci-fi like reality (with 1080x968 dpi), not up to the point that i need to warsheep it. just another human wonderful creation (no pun/preach intended)

author: MacAttak
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 03:18:17 am
content: That is awesome. Surely there must be a more cost-effective way to make one though. I'd love to make one, but $20,000 + is way over any budget I could justify.

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2014, 03:25:44 am
content: easier way is the track the eyes and do depth mapping, you project it onto the bottom of the flat side so that when you touch it you dont create shadows and as far as your brain is concerned its 3D
Information about IC's Marked M38510 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: rodd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2023, 11:28:32 am
content: Dear all.I bought a parts lot where there is a lot of IC marked XM38510/nnnnnLLL, whre X is a letter (usually J), nnnnn is a five digit number and LLL a three letter code.If I try to get info about them in datasheets sites liake alldatasheet.com, I can find some of the marking there, but when I click on the datasheet I am directed to a "conventional" part number.For example: M38510/00104BCA shows SN5400/SN7400.My questios are:1 - What type of marking is this?2 - If the info about these IC's is correct, why the "conventional" IC identification is not used?3- Where is possible to obtais more information about these parts/Thanks to you all

author: ArdWar
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 05, 2023, 11:48:48 am
content: That's MIL-spec parts. Circuit that got certified have their own MIL-M-38510 catalogue number.
Information on a little UHF TV Transceiver. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Arty30
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2023, 03:34:48 pm
content: I found at a thrift store a small device with a delightful array of knobs and switches on the front. It appears to be made by P.C electronics, it's a model TC70-1 ATV 'Tranceiver' (spelled wrong?). it seems to have an interesting array of features, having a camera port , mic plug, and "PTL"?, on the front as well as A-V inputs and TV/Monitor outputs on the back. I originally got it for the enclosure and array of switches, but I would like to know more. I have no idea what it's intended use is, or if it could still be worth something to someone?ThanksArty.

author: Jeff eelcr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2023, 10:25:17 pm
content: Arty30, as it looks it is for transmitting and receiving audio and video built like a CB style unit.I would post questions on the RF, Microwave, HAM radio section.Transceiver would be correct.Jeff

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2023, 10:32:19 pm
content: That is an interesting find, looks like a way to get a camera/audio/video and modulate it for a standard TV or Monitor for display. That is old school construction methods.

author: xrunner
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 12, 2023, 11:47:34 pm
content: It's this -https://www.rigpix.com/atv/pcelectronics_tc701.htm

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2023, 01:37:17 am
content: amature fastscan tv transmitter box.

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2023, 02:31:06 pm
content: Very popular with U.S.A. ham radio amateur television operators. There are some common A.T.V. repeater frequencies and A.T.V. clubs. What boggles my mind is why you came here to ask the question when a simple google search gives so many hits on that model number along with operating data and specs.

author: Arty30
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2023, 01:20:15 am
content: Well sorry for wasting your time then. I've seen some specs but that really doesn't tell me much because I'm obviously not knowledgeable in this area. I was just curious about it before using the shell for some other project.
information on PXIT PX2000 107 PXI Breadboard Card / Module ??? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: KrudyZ
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 09, 2018, 10:57:56 am
content: I just bought one of these on ebay.No real need, but it was cheap and looked interesting.The module provides a PXI interface and some kind of (register?) interface to allow the user to add their piece.There is also a breadboard area and a 25 pin external connector.Unfortunately, I can't find any technical info on this board. The company was bought by Agilent and the product discontinued, AFAIK.I would love to get a user / programming manual / schematics for this...Thanks!
Information regarding J2DW233 Back to Back Zener - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Engr11449
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 23, 2018, 01:16:56 pm
content: Hi,I am working on faulty power supply. Now I have found that the back to back zener is faulty. But I am stuck as I can't find the same zener with same specs. The details of my problem are written below:I've got 2 diodes that have J written with the model number 2DW233 in my power supply. One is faulty so I wanted to replace it. The 2DW233 with diamond mark was purchased from market but its Vz is 6.2V. While that in power supply is giving 14.4 Volts Vz. Is there a difference between "2DW233" and "2DW233J/J2DW233"? Because that in power supply has J written above 2DW233. Can anyone guide me from where I can purchase this diode?The diode in the power supply looks similar to the one in the attachment except with a J written above 2DW233. The manufacturer logo "S" is the same as in this pic attached. I want to know the name and contact of the manufacturer and any tech information regarding this model.I hope someone will be able to help.Thanks in advance.

author: cat87
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 23, 2018, 02:23:39 pm
content: There was some talk on the Metrology section of this forum of some 2DW233. Those were basically a version of the LTZ1000 reference. Though the ones there also have some extra pins for the heater. Maybe you can search for some info through the posts there.
Infra lamp operating on 230VAC with flicker-free thermostatic brightness control - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Gyulank
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 01, 2022, 06:28:09 am
content: I put3220V375Wlamps on the wall behind me with separate lamp switches. Problem 1 is that it is very bright. This is bad at night. The other problem is that if I turn it off, it will be dark and the cold wind will blow on me. The other is that sometimes 1 has a lot of power, sometimes 1 has little, but 2 has a lot, etc.. The other problem is that the switch cannot handle it. Other than that, when it was on, it overheated me more and more over time. I tried to control it with a thermostat, but it was horrible, as it went pitch black with a click, and the cold wind immediately hit me from the rest of the room. I would like to heat this small part economically with it. But I didn't find a solution for this. I would like a solution as cheap and simple as possible.What I would is:1.I can regulate separately, which is farther, stronger, which is closer, weaker. Flicker-free, and without off and on switching.2.Together with the differences set in 1, the three can be set together.3.Section 2 is controlled by temperature. Which, for example, would measure the device under the lamps, on the wall.
Infra-red remote control that doesn't conflict with other remotes - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: perdrix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2023, 06:26:09 pm
content: I want to control an A-B amplifier switch (to switch a pair of speakers to different amplifiers).I'm pretty sure I can do this with a single remote controlled relay that energises a couple of DPCO relays.The remote only needs two buttons which can be labelled On/Off or A/B.The challenge is that while there's lots of IR remote relays for little money on eBay, none of them seem have a means to configure them so they won't conflict with other IR remote controlled devices.I don't know if the old Philips RC5 system is still used, or whether it has been superseded by something else given that it only supports a maximum of 32 device addresses.ThanksDavid

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2023, 09:08:30 pm
content: Nec IR protocol is widely used.Normal standard uses 8-bit address, extended is 16-bit.https://www.sbprojects.net/knowledge/ir/nec.phpApple IR uses a slighly modified NEC protocol, 16bit address and 16 bit data, but it's easy to work with.For little projects it's a great small remote:https://hifiduino.wordpress.com/apple-aluminum-remote/

author: perdrix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2023, 06:06:21 am
content: Any product recommendations please?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2023, 05:52:22 pm
content: What exactly is causing you to fear such a conflict?!?If you’re buying an off the shelf product, you have to use whatever remote it comes with. If you’re building your own device, you can use whatever IR codes you want. IR remote conflicts are extremely rare, with the only real problems being when you have multiple devices of the same type and brand in the same room (e.g. multiple Sony TVs).

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2023, 05:55:37 pm
content: Quote from: DavidAlfa on December 01, 2023, 09:08:30 pmThey don’t make it anymore. They switched to Bluetooth years ago, with the remotes only having IR to control your TV volume and power.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 02, 2023, 06:14:02 pm
content: You could still buy them at least two years ago.https://www.amazon.com/Apple-MM4T2AM-A-TV-Remote/dp/B01DN08VAYUsed, they're everywhere at Ebay!Of course the receiver will need to be custom-made using a mcu, arduino or whatever.I'm using exactly these for a commercial product controlling vintage Hi-Fi devices, the aliminiuym and minimal design does great.
Infrared Camera - Penetrable Material - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: martinb
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 05:27:07 pm
content: HelloThis is my 1st post, so not sure if I have the right forum.I am conducting an experiment in a Perspex wind tunnel and I need to measure the temperature of a plate inside the wind tunnel. thermocouples are not an option. I have to use an ir camera. I'm using a Flir i7 camera. I need to cut out a section and replace it with an ir penetrable material. I have heard that cd cases work, but any I have tried have failed.Any suggestions?Thanks

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 13, 2013, 05:30:24 pm
content: Zinc selenideGallium ArsenideSiliconGermaniumMaybe thin polytheneSodium chlorideAll are likely to affect the temperature calibration though. Probably easier to mount an IR temp sensor inside the tunnel or in a small hole

author: LukeW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2013, 10:51:53 am
content: In addition to the materials mentioned by Mike, you've also got the thallium halide materials like KRS-5 and KRS-6. They're even more transmissive down into the far infrared than ZnSe, but they're toxic and pretty exotic materials. ZnSe, Si and Ge are probably the most common window materials in basic thermal IR applications.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2013, 10:59:06 am
content: FLIR disposable lens protectors for thermal cameras use the 12 or 25 micron shrink wrap plastic called Polyolefin, that is commonly found as the WRAPPER on CD cases.I bought a large roll of the plastic very cheaply. IIRC around GBP5 for 1mx20m. It is pretty strong so should survive in a wind tunnel ?Additional info added:I purchased 25 micron Polyolefin from the following company and it works very well. I just tried a piece in front of my E4 and the camera sees through it fine.Bee Beautiful .....www.beebeautiful.org.ukhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20mtrs-Polyolefin-Shrink-Wrap-Film-25-micron-450mm-/350800488552?pt=UK_Packaging_Materials&hash=item51ad56a868#ht_1387wt_1018

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2013, 07:31:05 am
content: Nice to know, I use that at work for shrinkwrapping, so have rolls of it.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 04:27:16 pm
content: http://www.kube.ch/plastics/

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 04:29:41 pm
content: Quote from: Pippy on November 18, 2013, 04:21:25 pmPolythene/polyethylene

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 04:39:07 pm
content: Everything penetrates Paris Hilton

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 18, 2013, 04:41:03 pm
content: There are many plastics that are transparent to a greater or lesser extent at thermal wavelengths. Even black bin bags are transparent ! A key issue is material thickness. The thinner the better when it comes to transmission losses in plastics.Experimentation is recommended