A GW Instek, PSP-405, Lab bench power supply repaired - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: matt6ft9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2015, 06:38:03 pm
content: No help needed on this one, just hoping to help someone else out.The series of GW Instek, PSP-405 lab bench power supplies has capacitor issues. We have about ten of these power supplies. In the past year, three of these power supplies have failed. They start acting up by the output not turning on consistently. The next stage of failure is all of the LCD segments turning on when the PS powers up or the PS being completely dead.The GW Instek, PSP-405 is a 40V, 5Amp, programmable bench power supply. The programmable part of the power supply is though a 9-pin RS-232 connector on the back of the supply. Amazon has the power supply new for $310 USD, which seem really high to me. The power supply was also found under another brand: Iso-Tech ISP-405. (At least, the faceplate and specs look identical) I’m not sure if any others in GW instek PSP series have the same cap issues. They are the PSP-603 and the PSP-2010.Two of the failed power supplies were 9 years old, with the third failure being a 5 year supply. All of the power supplies had issues with the four capacitors (see "four caps.jpg")On the 5 year old power supply, it was showing the first stages of failure with the output not turning on consistently. There were no blown tops on the four caps in the 5 year old supply. (but there were vented caps on the previous power supplies) After the 4 caps were removed, here are the ESR readings:Capacitor Printed value Measured Value Measured ESR ESR of a Good CapC25 470uF, 25V 409uF 4.1 ohms 0.25 ohmsC29 470uF, 25V 414uF 3.9 ohms 0.25 ohmsC33 470uF, 25V 434uF 4.3 ohms 0.25 ohmsC49 100uF, 100V 86uF 21 ohms 0.4 ohmsDigikey has some good replacement caps:C25, C29, and C33: Part number P12389-ND, CAP ALUM 470UF 25V 20% RADIALC49: Part number P5313-ND, CAP ALUM 100UF 100V 20% RADIALSo far, all three power supplies with the new caps are performing well. Anyway, I hope this helps someone out.

author: attie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2015, 03:15:18 pm
content: Hi matt6ft9,I just wanted to say thanks very much for posting this!I've been handed a 'junk' ISO-TECH IPS2010 that I've been hoping to get up and running again.The power board looks incredibly similar to your photos.I've had a look for schematics and things before, so your post and my free time were very well coordinated! :-)I'm going to replace the caps you've mentioned, C25 and C29 are indeed slightly inflated on my board...I just wanted to check what symptoms you've seen.This supply will sit, seemingly 'resetting' (brownout?) and clicking (from BZ1 on the logic board), with the LCD flickering in time with the clicks.If you leave it long enough it does tend to startup properly, but then fails to switch on its output...Cheers,Attie

author: JoeO
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2015, 04:21:16 pm
content: Attie:matt6ft9 documents the symptoms he is seeing. Re-read his post.Replace the 4 caps that matt6ft9 did since you can see that 2 of them are already defective. Then trouble shoot from there.

author: attie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2015, 04:39:20 pm
content: Thanks JoeO,I was hoping for an expansion on the following:Quote from: matt6ft9 on March 19, 2015, 06:38:03 pmFor example, is he hearing the clicks too?I'm planning to replace the caps, and I will indeed trouble shoot from there... I'm not sure what else you thought I was going to do...

author: matt6ft9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2015, 01:23:48 am
content: Attie, I was not able to find schematics either. (not too surprising)The power supplies differed some in the failure. One of the failed supplies would have a relay click several seconds after power up. (relay on the power board?) But, the first symptom was the output not turning on when it should. If you would hit the output button again, it would come on. Once it progressed to the state of all of the segments on or none the segments on, there was no coming back no matter how long you left it on.If you have an ESR meter, you can use it on some of the large electrolytic caps while they are still in circuit.Here is a table of ESR values you should be reading.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/esr-values-for-electrolytic-caps/Matt

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2015, 01:42:51 am
content: In the absence of an ESR tester, a "trusted" capacitance meter might help.matt6ft9's values in the OP are 10% or more away from nominal values.This would send up a big red flag for me.An ESR test would then be only a confirmation of the culprits.

author: attie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2015, 10:01:53 pm
content: Hi matt6ft9,I just wanted to post back and say "thank you very much!"The supply is now up and running againAttie

author: matt6ft9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2015, 07:57:53 pm
content: Attie, That's awesome! Matt

author: googolp
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 23, 2016, 10:32:46 pm
content: You saved me too matt6ft9.The first symptoms was the power supply spontaneously turning off under load. After that it began clicking and the LCD was flickering. Eventually it just wouldn't turn on.After some investigation I found that the MCU was being reset by the 5V power good line. After probing the 15V rail I saw that it was climbing very slowly and eventually when it reached 15V the screen and MCU came back to life (this would sometimes take more than a minute). Moments after connecting a load it would die again and the long wait for the 15V rail would start all over. I discovered would die each time the fan turned on, this explained why it would die under load.Anyways, I found this post and replaced the caps. The GW Instek PSP-2010 is working again.Cheers.

author: Conseils
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 03, 2016, 07:01:07 pm
content: I have used these supplies for around 8 years. When purchased, I had a failed unit after a couple of days. It was super urgent, so I replaced one of the capacitors you identified ( C29 ) with a huge, Radio Spares 63v 470uF 85°C variant. Fully expecting the power supply to retire shortly afterwards. Almost 10 years later it seems to be still going strong! I wonder if the original capacitors are either really poor, under rated or over loaded.With the idea of perhaps fitting a PiZeo to allow Wifi control, http interface and some data logging; together with a small calibration tweak and remembering the dodgy capacitor issue, I popped the lid off for a peek inside again.Sure enough, all the capacitors you identified have a lovely crusty brown exudation on the top! It still worked seemingly satisfactorily according to my pre calibration check. So maybe my calibration check was bit overkill but what a find, then I came across your lovely post!By the way, my unit is the Radio Spares RS ISO-TECH IPS-405 which appears to be as far as I can discern identical inside.Ordered some lovely Panasonic replacement capacitors.Thanks for posting.

author: Conseils
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 08, 2016, 10:25:50 pm
content: Following from my previous post..My 'dodgy' capacitors measured 245 and 104 uF. Whilst the previously hacked large 63v RS capacitor measured 498 uF (no issue with that one it seems). They were of course all supposed to be 470 uF nominal. So the brown crusty stuff must be magic smoke related at least ;-)Following the repair I measured the heat sink temperature near these capacitors. This was to see if the heat sink was running warmer than might be anticipated, perhaps leading to degradation of the capacitors. As I haven't really run the power supply continuously at full load, to 'stress' the capacitors.Set at 5.00 volts (5.0012 measured) and with no load, after 30 minutes the heat sink measures 63.9 °C in a 20.1 °C ambient.The fan mounted in the unit runs very occasionally for a couple of seconds under this no load condition.I had adjusted the potentiometer SVR1 on the computer PCB to adjust the voltage output at the terminal posts. This allowed me to pull in the power supply output voltage easily by ~15mV to bring the power supply output voltage nicely nearer to the indicated voltage on the units display panel.You can see the potentiometer that was adjusted on the attached image.Thanks again for posting.

author: matt6ft9
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2016, 02:45:36 pm
content: It’s good to see so many using this post. ‘just had another one start exhibiting the same problems today. After opening it up, C25 and C29 had vented and made brown residue on the lid of the enclosure.I replaced the four caps and the power supply seems functional again.Matt

author: dgtl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2018, 01:49:29 pm
content: Another one fixed here. In my case C36, C37 and C19 had too high ESR (their capacitance were ok and no brown spots of venting, bulging or other marks of damage). After replacing these three, the supply is working again.

author: c_04
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2018, 07:17:22 am
content: HiI have PSP-603 power supply, mine uses 8951 uC with separate board signed as DPS4005. Is there anyone who could share bin file for this uC. Today ive checked - my is blank. I can share bin file for eprom if needed. My is 27C512 rom is V.1.89. It would be even great to get firmware for example PSP-405 just for tests - if will not work correctly.RegardsGreg

author: Wollvieh
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2020, 02:13:02 pm
content: Just for the records, there is a schematics file out there, find attached.This one is for the DSP-4005, which is quite similar to the DSP-6003 and DSP-2010 which also come as IPS-2010, IPS-4005 and IPS-6003 from various companies like GW Instek, Voltcraft, ISP, Iso-tech. Just to feed the search engine.The boards may vary over the years.

author: fest
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2020, 11:15:39 pm
content: I obtained a similar model (IPS-603) whose front display and keypads worked just fine, but output stayed at 0V regardless of settings.After replacing the caps (didn't help) I continued debugging and found out that leads of one of the main switching transistors (Q1) had been trimmed off too short and did not make contact with traces on the bottom layer.

author: LogicalDave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 01, 2022, 04:55:31 pm
content: I purchased a PSP-2010 on eBay. It is in good condition and has a white adhesive securing the electrolytics to the board, so perhaps Instek has moved away from the problematic brown adhesive. The caps do not appear to have vented. The only issue is the rotary encoder, which will often move the value being adjusted more than one step and sometimes in the wrong direction. The encoder looks like a common 3-pin through-hole EC12 rotary encoder like Bourns PEC12R-4220F-N0024 or TT EN12-HN22AF20. Has anyone had the same issue? Does anyone know the exact replacement part number for the encoder? It is marked with a Chinese character; it seems to follow the EC12 footprint, the shaft is 6mm diameter, 10mm long (tip-to-bushing), 15mm long (tip-to-body), 20mm long (tip to PCB).Also, any recommendations for cleaning the button contacts? isopropyl alcohol?Finally, I've included a pic of the front panel board to add to this thread

author: LogicalDave
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2022, 03:21:05 pm
content: It turns out that a standard EC12 rotary encoder fixed the problem. You want one with roughly 24 counts per rotation and ideally 15mm. The board wants one without a switch, but I used an encoder that has a switch (push the wheel in to close switch); I just bent the switch leads up and connected them to the nearest vias which activate the Enter button...so new functionality :-)I was in a rush so I ordered encoders from amazon:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0838S2LR1/These have a 14.3mm shaft instead of the ideal 15mm, but it was no problem and fit perfectly.I think the exact match is TT part EN12-HS22AF20. Note that encoder height measurement methodology seems to vary by manufacturer. The original encoder has a 6mm diameter shaft; the body extends 5mm above the PCB, the bushing adds another 5mm, then the rest of the shaft is 10mm. TT calls that a 20mm encoder, many others describe this as 15mm.

author: jeka1981
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 04, 2022, 11:50:10 pm
content: Does anyone know how to convert it from 115V to 230V ?

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2022, 12:30:31 am
content: According to the manual it can run from both 115V and 230V. It seems to be auto ranging.

author: jeka1981
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 07, 2022, 09:34:51 pm
content: But in real life it's not like this. It has a switch for 115V and 230V, but for 230V it doesn't have a cable connected for it to work.I think think that it's a scam with 115V and 230V switch. Isaw only 2 200V capacitors - only for 115V.It needs to be modded to 230V by myself. So, i need schematick or pictures from a EU 230V version.

author: jeka1981
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 07, 2022, 09:51:08 pm
content: Here is the picture of it :

author: avrusb
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 08, 2022, 07:28:26 am
content: That is perfectly fine. The switch is only closed or open. See this schematic for example:BTW, PSUs with this kind of switch are not allowed in Europe anymore for new production. With PFC, it is not necessary anymore.

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2022, 02:10:31 pm
content: From the photos in the original post, I see that the problematic caps were located right beside a big heatsink. Over the years, I have noticed that caps that are subjected to heat fail faster. This is a frequent problem in the Fluke 8840A/8842A DMM's. The two 470UF caps are right beside the pwr. supply regulator heatsinks. These caps are found to be open frequently. It's also a problem in LCD TV's where pwr. supplies generate alot of heat.

author: mahmut47
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 17, 2022, 03:12:11 pm
content: f2 fuse always blows up and i cant fix it please anyone tell me how to repair my power supply

author: jeka1981
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 25, 2022, 08:03:34 pm
content: So, from start :- i bought a faulty PSP-405. It had problems something like in this video :but dimmer and like resetting itself + beeping .I replaced almost all capacitors, except all 50V - C53, C19, C16, C10, C7 and C48 100V 0.47 mF ( i didn't foun them at the moment) but nothing changed.I almost gave up, but after i replaced last 2 capacitors ( C9 and C12) - it resurrected.I hope this will help someone !!!

author: mahmut47
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 01, 2022, 03:10:07 pm
content: lm358 is not working can i replace with lm358n or lm358p ?

author: mahmut47
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 02, 2022, 02:57:50 pm
content: can you show me where is the c12? my power supply always resetting icant fix it

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 02, 2022, 06:26:41 pm
content: Quote from: mahmut47 on December 02, 2022, 02:57:50 pmI don't know the capacitors designations, but on mine I had to replace the two 470uF 25V caps between the heatsink and smaller yellow transformer T1.See attached pic, you can tell the caps are bulging on top.

author: jeka1981
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 02, 2022, 11:43:59 pm
content: This is C12 :

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 03, 2022, 06:30:58 am
content: Thanks. I have another two of these to fix (Iso-Tech branded from RS), so will change that cap as well.

author: mahmut47
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 14, 2022, 02:36:27 pm
content: there is no cap at this c12 socket. my power supply always resetting itself. i just change lots of companents but still not working i dont understand what is the problem i need help

author: mahmut47
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 26, 2022, 12:05:23 pm
content: i need help please someone tell me how to fix it. i tried everything but still my power suppy restarting

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 26, 2022, 12:16:28 pm
content: Does you power supply actually have SMPS problem or it just restarts while 5V low power SMPS is working fine? There are at least two major revisions of these PSUs, the major difference is that in newer PSUs there is no separate large CPU (digital) board besides SMPS board and CPU is on a front panel (2 PCBs instead of 3 in older ones). And some small differences in SMPS board. I've seen reboot loop in newer version due to EEPROM corruption.

author: mahmut47
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 27, 2022, 08:02:10 am
content: my front panel %100 healty cuz my other psu board works normally with the front panel but second one makes it restart

author: Bernique
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2023, 10:11:36 pm
content: Hello all,first post on this forum... where I landed after googling from France forfaulty PSP-405I spent a couple of hours reading here and there, made some tests, but still requesting some support to have this power supply back to life. This is the main reason why I'm using this very helpfull post started long agoResume of the situation:I received my Instek PSP-405 from a friend who pasted away recently, which is my main motivation to repair itI tried to power it up: I had a normal screen on for a second, and then it turned blank (only backlight).Based on my reading, I checked the best candidate capacitors (C49, C25, C29 & C33) and C29 was found totally scraped (33pF with a nice blown top!), while the others were within 10% of their original value (with ESR around 0,8Ω)To stay on the safe side, I decided to change C25, C29 et C33 as I had some stock. I put C49 back in place (no spare).After this, I now can recover the normal startup with the expected screen. I can select values (V, I, P)... all is fineAlmost fine... 'Cause when pressing OUTPUT ON, tension is rising up and going back to quite zeroWhat's next?Before trying to dig into the EEPROM (some other readings), I made a visual inspection of my power board... and found that IC2 (COSMO 1010) is quite dirty/over heated? (and connected to C29).I also scope the output while OUTPUT is OFF... and go a nice signal from the main with 50Hz frequency(and confirm that output is quite zero with the same signal whatever OUTPUT is ON or OFF!)I tried to identify this IC2 on the schematics given in the various post but couldn't find my way... sorry for being so noviceMy question:I suspect this IC2 to be part of my problem (I belive it is supposed to command high voltage and being faulty could lead to let the 50Hz going everywhere it should not!). Does anyone of you with better expertize then mine could confirm this diagnostic or give me another track to follow?PS: I have attached a few pictures for reference below... but can provide some more detail if needed

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 12, 2023, 11:01:27 pm
content: With this newer version of PSP-405 hardware, EEPROM corruption most likely is the root cause for screen going blank. As I remember broken calibration data caused an issue like yours.I attached a working EEPROM dump, image shows bytes responsible for calibration. Calibration data is likely corrupted in your EEPROM, but you can try copy it all or partially (if copying all results in return of failure) into working EEPROM dump. The problem with this hardware version it that unlike in older units, adjustment mostly happens in firmware unlike in older units that had another large PCB besides SMPS PCB and that used potentiometers only. I attached old adjustment manual I found on internet in the past for reference. GW instek refused providing me such for new HW. So I adjusted mine by fiddling with cal data in the EEPROM, IIRC voltage calibration consisted of two ranges, 0-20V and 20V-40V. Don't remember about current but likely there were two ranges too, each consisting of 2 bytes. IIRC potentiometer on SMPS PCB was for zero current adjustment.

author: Bernique
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2023, 07:23:02 am
content: Thx for the quick answerEEPROM will be a new field for meI have an EEPROM reader branded LEAPER-48 from my aboved mentionned friend... I will first try to identify the PSP-405 EEPROM on the front board, check if my reader is compatible and then remove it if possible in order to read it.I will also source a fresh one in case of... as well a new COMOS 1010 and low ESR capacitors (from Panasonic if any) in order to justify shipment fee

author: Bernique
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2023, 09:08:16 am
content: According tothis post, EEPROM should be AT24C08B from ATMEL.I can have some other references from my usual vendor but working voltage start @2.5v. The ATMEL chip seems to be tolerant from 1.8 to 5.5v, but what about the voltage used in the PSP-405? Any idea please?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 13, 2023, 11:17:50 am
content: I'm pretty sure it's 5V.

author: Bernique
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2023, 11:29:41 am
content: Hello,I took part the front panel and checked for the EEPROM.Reference is the following on top of the SOIC-8:ATMLH70208CM Y.A8ND6AFound hard time to find any datasheet on this (I don't even know which references are relevevant to seach for!...atmel 08CMseems promizing, but then I'm stuck!)... do you have any info on your side please?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 14, 2023, 12:12:03 pm
content: 08C = AT24C08C

author: Bernique
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2023, 04:01:14 pm
content: desoldering is doneWithout any adapteur, I had to solder some leg extentions to the EEPROM in order to plug the chip into my reader (see below picture)Bad news is I cannot have my old LEAPER-48 running under Ubuntu, neither on an old WinXP (some .ini file missing... I gave up!)I took a look on the web for a new reader... and identified theXGecu T48 (TL866-3G) programmer (TL866 3rd generation)Any other recommandation for Christmass for a EEPROM reader with reasonnable (chineese) price, capable to read the above chip as well as AT24C08 ones under Ubuntu distro (understanding I'm an occasional user, it's not my daily sport!)?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 14, 2023, 04:32:26 pm
content: The cheapest would be something like CH341A programmer. With DIP->SO8 ZIF adapter will cost like $5 delivered.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 14, 2023, 04:37:13 pm
content: Quote from: Bernique on December 14, 2023, 04:01:14 pmDid you install a separate driver? Also there are different program versions available. Should support any32 bitwindows from win98SE to Win7.

author: Bernique
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2023, 04:43:59 pm
content: I did.The reader is recognized by the WinXP laptop as weel as the soft (Universal IC Writer).I can lauch it, but a popup indicated a missing .ini file and the librairy for the eeprom is emptyfrom there, I cannot read the eeprom

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 14, 2023, 05:29:32 pm
content: Quote from: Bernique on December 14, 2023, 04:43:59 pmDid you install the IC library that comes separately?

author: Bernique
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2023, 05:53:15 pm
content: oups... I missed that I believeOn the CD I have with the reader I do not have any additional lib... sounds like Google time for tonightBy the way I was reading stuff on CH341A programmer... old version seems to request mod not to smoke 3.3v chips, new ones seems more friendly...Very interesting:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/ch341a-serial-memory-programmer-power-supply-fix/msg5198676/#msg5198676

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 14, 2023, 06:06:09 pm
content: Why would you install some obsolete garbage from CD?https://www.batronix.com/shop/programmer/leaper48/index.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA7OqrBhD9ARIsAK3UXh23J-Xt2l1pijISSH9Si5BXaRXDjko-sXUKIl8MXqhsIJbi8lfKBIUaAtN3EALw_wcBin downloads tab

author: Bernique
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2023, 06:12:33 pm
content: Thx, I was exactly on the same page

author: Bernique
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2023, 06:38:35 pm
content: got it, many thankshere is my dump

author: gabiz_ro
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2023, 07:59:55 pm
content: I have one but under ISO-TECH brand and IPS 2010 model but same thing.Was dead and after repair was de-calibrated.I abandoned at that moment because of other projects.I remember I dumped firmware and saved somewhere.I found it some time ago and give it a try with my little skills in reversing firmware.Ghidra got confused since for that mcu in 16 bit mode have missing some instruction that are available only on 20 or 32 bit, can't remember, I posted on github on issue, get some fixes but still no go since on 16 bit can't decompile, on 32 bit can decompile but wrong addresses.Anyway I remember that was a check at startup for something on serial port that may trigger calibration mode and looks like interactive from strings on firmware.Can't be sure but may be enter key pressed, need to search on work PC, if memory not fail me the check was for 0x0A that I think is Line FeedI'll upload tomorrow firmware. Maybe someone with greater skill can do reverse engineering.( if I don't forget)editJust remembered that I uploaded on githubhttps://github.com/NationalSecurityAgency/ghidra/issues/5901#issuecomment-1777612940

author: Bernique
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2023, 01:13:53 pm
content: order for EEPROM, capacitors & opto-coupler placed this morningShould be there on the 25th morning

author: p.larner
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2023, 06:00:50 pm
content: is it smps or a linear topolagy?

author: Bernique
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2023, 08:28:15 pm
content: EEPROM receivedI was about to plug one empty EEPROM on the PCB just for curiosity... is it useless ('cause no data inside thus startup will not occur) or does it make sence to verify that a non corrupted EEPROM is solving my issue?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 19, 2023, 08:42:30 pm
content: Quote from: Bernique on December 19, 2023, 08:28:15 pmIIRC it will recreate most of data within EEPROM and it won't reboot, however output voltage will be totally wrong.

author: Bernique
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 19, 2023, 09:14:14 pm
content: I've got 50 of those AT24C08C to play with (minimum order qty @RS-Components)... rain is announced for tomorrow and SOIP8 adaptor is somewhere between China & France so no chance to dump your non_corrupted.bin into an EEPROM shortlyI'll give a try if I can

author: Bernique
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2024, 11:31:52 am
content: Hello,I gave a try last evening... load the sain .bin into a fresh eeprom, solder it and boot the bench supply.Unfortunatly, I still have the same situation: no output at all.I need to look at another area than eeprom and capcitors which have been changed already earlier.

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 17, 2025, 11:43:25 am
content: Just repaired another ISO-TECH IPS-405 with the same capacitor failure. This one is probably about 12 years old, but not used a great deal.C25 and C29 had visibly bulged but not leaked. They read high ESR, and capacitance less than 1uF instead of 470uF. Replaced those and the PSU is working properly again.I checked a few other caps like C12 and C33, but they seemed fine.