Hakko 472 desoldering pump adding a Aoyue B1002A desoldering Gun - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: sampler1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2020, 05:05:01 am
content: I came across a 110V Hakko 472 Desoldering station missing the Gun. As you probably know the gun cost quite a bit so I was looking for a less expensive solution. The Hakko has a female 6 pin connector. The desoldering gun for a Aoyue B1002A Gun has a 8 pin female. I am trying to figure out could I adapt this Gun to he Hakko. The guns for Hakko and the Aoyue B1002A have the same 24 volt specs. and I believe the same wattage. Would anyone have an idea if the wiring would be the same?Yes, I know this is a strange post. Im really hopping someone can help..Best regards,Stay safe !

author: sampler1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2020, 05:05:57 am
content: I took a look at my 8 pin Aoyue gun and not the same at all but I striped it down and looked at the wiring. Easy to figure out.. I know have the gun trigger working and the heater but the Temperature is not controlled.. The Hakko base had all the info marked on the PCB so that too was easy to figure.. The Gun sensors went to 2 &4 and the Heater pin 1 &3 but in the Hakko manual it says the resistance should be 9.2ohms for the heater and 54 Ohms for the sensor. I have 10 for my heater but only 19 for the sensor. Any ideas how I might resolve this? No Temp. control.. Normal control should be 662 deg. F to 842 F.Thanks in advance.Regards..

author: ogden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2020, 07:39:59 am
content: Add 54-19=35 Ohm series resistor in form of 100ohm 10turn trimpot (in the station end) and pray that Hakko and Aoyue both have sensors with either positive or negative temp curve. You may be lucky and small tweaking of series resistance may be enough to get one desired temperature or even some range. Otherwise you have to design temperature sensor "converter" circuit, especially if you want to regulate whole temperature range.

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2020, 09:39:37 am
content: historically hakko used thermistors, newer chinese stuff is all thermocouple. afaik atten uses thermocouple in series with heating element, at least their soldering stations do.

author: sampler1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2020, 03:43:35 pm
content: Rasz,I think you might be right as I already tried adding a 35ohm resister in series on pin 2 on the station side.. Would you have any ideas in a fix? or maybe a small circuit I could incorporate to control the temp?Appreciate your time!.Stay well.

author: ogden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 03, 2020, 11:45:23 pm
content: Hint: Do you have multimeter with thermocouple temperature measaurement option? If it is indeed thermocouple, then I would say that internet e-shops is full of cheap thermocouple-based soldering iron controllers. It is much easier to replace controller rather than reverse-engineer and hack one.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2020, 12:12:13 am
content: I did a schematic for the Hakko 470-2:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/hakko-470-471-de-soldering-station-schematic/Upgraded from 802 to 809 gun. Hakko measures the heater's resistance (current) for sensing temperature. So only 5-wires to the gun. Nobody uses a thermistor, they can't take high temps.I don't know anything about the Aoyue B1002A, what it uses for temperature sensing.edit: I checked and Hakko A1507 heating element for 817 desoldering gun has a separate temperature sensor. Some Hakko 817 data: temp sensor 54 ohms at 23C (pin 2-4), heater 9.2 ohms (pin 1-3).

author: sampler1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2020, 02:03:07 am
content: I think the only route would be to try and fit a Hakko A1507 heating element. The 817 gun seems to have its own configuration for a sensor. If I could make a fit it would work for sure.I thought the Aoyue Gun would be the same but I guess not.. Thermo couple. Maybe my 1st try will be a cheap temp controller circuit. At least I will have a Digital Temp readout.Thanks all.

author: sampler1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2020, 03:16:19 am
content: Quote from: floobydust on May 04, 2020, 12:12:13 amWhat is the Temp sensor on the 817?

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2020, 04:39:58 am
content: Quote from: sampler1 on May 04, 2020, 03:16:19 amI think it's the same as the Hakko 936 heater A1321 - a wirewound RTD around 50 ohms at room temp, linear curve but not platinum wire. I haven't seen a Hakko 472 schematic.The Aoyue C005A heating element for B1002A uses a thermocouple inside. So you could mod the Hakko control board to take a thermocouple instead of the RTD. Same issue as many 936 clone stations and htere are 1000's of postings and schematics etc across the Web as people found this difference.Going in the other direction - putting in a Aoyue control board, depends on the motor/trigger/timer compatibility. I don't know what they are i.e. 24VAC or 24VDC.

author: sampler1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2020, 05:15:01 am
content: Quote from: floobydust on May 04, 2020, 04:39:58 amI figured I would use a control board to control 24v Ac Heater and just jump over some wires to the Hakko board to control the trigger. Now how long it will take from china to get a control board is another story.. Ill get back with some results and pics.Modding the Hakko control board to accept a Thermocouple would be over my head , but I must say the guy that comes up with that mod will be very very popular..Aoyue B1002A around $40.00 / Hakko 817 around $250.00Cheers, stay safe.

author: ogden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2020, 09:30:07 am
content: Quote from: sampler1 on May 04, 2020, 05:15:01 amDo not mod control board. Replace it instead. Internet e-shops are full of "Hakko T12 handle temp control PCB" for < 10$. AFAIK T12 uses thermocouple, right?QuoteYou can be the one

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 04, 2020, 05:40:03 pm
content: OP can you post clear pictures of the controller board, both sides so we can see what you've got.I wouldn't rule out a mod quite yet.Changing over to T12 controller may be a poor idea if the power supply has no 24VDC with enough current to drive a heater and motor. The old heater is likely 24VAC with triac control, with a DC motor?There are T12 controllers with extra MOSFETs to switch a DC desoldering pump, as well as control soldering temp. and they have switch inputs.

author: sampler1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 12:57:22 am
content: A few pics as received.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 07:24:06 am
content: I see an 24VAC induction motor, two triacs (heater+motor) and a vacuum solenoid valve, similar to the470-2.The board has a "472/473?" mark on the corner. I will sketch something for a schematic.

author: ogden
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2020, 05:11:01 pm
content: Quote from: floobydust on May 04, 2020, 05:40:03 pmIf Thermocouple is isolated - add small AC-DC converter for T12 control board and introduce optocouplers for heater and motor triacs. If thermocouple is not isolated - you need DC for heater anyway. Efficient off-the shelf DC-DC buck converters are widely available to convert from rectified 24VAC to 24VDC, so it can't be considered as problem either.

author: sampler1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 03:10:00 am
content: Quote from: floobydust on May 06, 2020, 07:24:06 amThe marking is 472 on the board corner and the model of the unit is 472-1.Thanks!

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2020, 07:43:43 pm
content: I can't make out the uPC324 IC1 traces, it's covered in flux and too dark to see. Can you clean the pcb with IPA and a q-tip and take another pic of that bottom side section, under the socket.

author: sampler1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 08, 2020, 02:40:24 am
content: Sorry a bit slow . Im so busy, shop is loaded.I think this will be better. if not just let me know.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2020, 02:45:48 am
content: What do the blue wires go to? S1, S2, TRG I thought just a SPST microswitch? I still haven't figured out how it's doing temperature control compared to the 470/471.

author: sampler1
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2020, 06:33:01 pm
content: Hi Floobydust,Love the name.. !please see the photo and explains the Blue wires.. All going to the front din plug.Regards!