Quality cutters? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: artvandalai
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2025, 08:55:23 pm
content: Looking for a good pair of cutters for cutting wire or component legs. Any good recommendations?

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2025, 09:20:53 pm
content: Brand wise knipex, there 78-03 -125 are my weapon of choice.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2025, 09:32:48 pm
content: Hakko CHP-170 series for small stuff. The CHP-170/D is ESD safe.Hakko TRR-58 series for larger stuff. The -D is also ESD safe.You can get both of these in the ESD safe version for under $30 from TEquipment or Test Equity or probably many other places.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2025, 10:15:48 pm
content: Wiha.Top quality, price is OK ($30...$80).

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2025, 10:23:48 pm
content: If you do a forum search for 'sidecutters', there are a number of previous threads that contain all the usual candidates and will save some time.e.g.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/what-are-the-best-electronics-sidecutters/but there are other threads too.Edit: Another good one...https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/good-side-cutters-for-small-electronics-work/

author: ZGoode
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2025, 11:07:30 pm
content: My favorites on my desk are my Erem's and Excelta's. Although I love Knipex, Apex, Hakko/CHP, and Tsunoda. I wish Tsunoda were easier to get outside of Japan, because they are quite nice. I still keep cheapo crap cutters around for stuff that would damage nice ones since I couldn't care what damage happens to the cheap chinese ones.

author: Gregg
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2025, 11:15:50 pm
content: Engineer brand cutters from Japan are on par with Knipex quality; some of the styles are available on Amazon. Excelta made in USA are high quality also. I would also recommend Whia.Be wary of Hakko knock-offs from china or buying any brand from ebay.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 01:17:09 am
content: Quote from: themadhippy on January 30, 2025, 09:20:53 pmI am planning on picking up a pair of these:https://www.knipex-tools.com/products/diagonal-cutters/diagonal-cutters/diagonal-cutters/7601125

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 02:15:58 am
content: Knipex 78 61 125 for general stuff (not afraid of moderately hard steel). Lindstrom 8147 or similar where precision is needed, like cutting IC terminals. You also buy Piergiacomi (often rebranded, by Hakko for example) if tight on money buy never cut anything harder than copper or thin soft steel component terminals.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 02:19:41 am
content: Quote from: bdunham7 on January 30, 2025, 09:32:48 pmThose are rebranded Piergiacomi TR 25 with red handles instead of yellow. Made of relatively soft steel. Thus labeled as copper only.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 02:39:04 am
content: Quote from: Benta on January 30, 2025, 10:15:48 pmIME trash for the money, never again. I'd buy their screwdrivers but not other tools. Quality for the price asked is simply is not there. I have WIHA 26822 and they're the last side cutters I ever think of using. Use them almost entirely for cutting FR-4 as I would not regret throwing them away. And for their price I could easily buy three regular Knipex 78 61 125 or two in ESD version and have some money left. And have a much better tool at that.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 02:40:20 am
content: Quote from: wraper on January 31, 2025, 02:19:41 amI know they say "Made in Italy" but I didn't know the brand. In any case, although the label says that themax cutis determined with copper wire (and that is 10AWG for the bigger ones) they cut smaller coated steel leads with no issue. The OP specifically said wires and component leads and since they are flush cutters, I wouldn't expect them to be very good for cutting steel cable or nipping out steel enclosures. IOW, yes they're probably a bit delicate but I've had the same pair for years.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 02:51:00 am
content: Quote from: bdunham7 on January 31, 2025, 02:40:20 amIME they quite quickly become dull even form steel electrolytic capacitor leads. Not apparent immediately, but after cutting a hundred or two, it won't be the same. While Knipex 78 61 125 can cut something like this nearly indefinitely with barely any wear.QuoteMany of which are actually steel. Try magnet on capacitors you have. I just tried a few dozen, all steel regardless of the price.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 04:54:07 am
content: I like *strom pliers , in carbide, but you gotta get a bunch and have no remorse when you chip it $$$$$

author: elektryk
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 06:13:07 am
content: Quote from: wraper on January 31, 2025, 02:51:00 amI've got a few pieces of TRE-03-NB and there's no problem with capacitors or resistors, but be carefull with "goldpins".If I really have to cut them, I use worn out pliers so in a worst case I can scrap them with no regrets.

author: peter-h
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 08:38:13 am
content: Lindstrom are the best and last for ever, but they are pricey.

author: JohanH
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 31, 2025, 08:47:07 am
content: Knipex Super Knips flush cutters, because of the price (not too expensive). Destroyed a couple when cutting steel by mistake. But I will buy them again, no doubt.Last time, I also tried Xuron LX Micro-Shear Flush cutter. I like the grip and how it handles, but it was a disaster otherwise. The jaws don't line up exactly and there is a small wiggle sideways. In fact, the rivet also feels smaller than the hole, so the jaws move around a tiny bit. So you can't get a precise cut. I modified them by hitting the rivet with a sledgehammer to make them stiffer, so they will do for now. But never again.

author: twospoons
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2025, 08:51:27 pm
content: Been using the same Lindstrom cutters for 15 years - and I bought them second hand. Nothing else I've used comes close. Quality is worth paying for.

author: D2236
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 02:38:30 am
content: Although I have a collection of Lindstrom tools, I found the Xuron USA 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutters to be a good value for money. They have several small pliers as well. I recently discovered the same cutter on Ali express for less. without the branded name stamped in the grip. I compared it with the original, and they look exactly the same. Xuron USA claim "Made in the USA," so I don't know what to believe.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 02:50:44 am
content: Quote from: D2236 on February 03, 2025, 02:38:30 amMost likely a clone, Chinese make a lot of nearly 100% visually identical copies of western brand tools. Materials, build quality are usually shit though.

author: JohanH
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 07:57:39 am
content: I bought the Xuron LX Micro-Shear Flush cutter on Amazon US, but they were still crap. Maybe a clone, maybe just a bad specimen.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 02:57:08 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on January 31, 2025, 02:51:00 amSo I looked up the exact 78 61 125 model and I see that they are HRC 64, unlike most of the rest of the Knipex line which is HRC 54 IIRC. 64 is unusually hard, the Hakko ones I have are HRC 56. For knives and other instruments 64 would mean it holds an edge very well but is brittle. IDK if that matters for flush cutters. If I ever wear mine out I'll try the exact model you suggest, but I'm just not seeing any wear yet and I cut a fair number of small steel leads.

author: Fryguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 03:28:20 pm
content: I use the Knipex 78 61 140 - a little bit bigger and a bit tougher than the 78 61 125 . Still my first one so far .

author: eliocor
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 04:15:13 pm
content: Erem 522: you will not be disappointed. They last forever!

author: woody
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 05:02:21 pm
content: For smaller work I used to swear by Lindstrom. Very sharp, very precise, very durable, and very expensive.Then some years ago I ordered some soldering equipment somewhere and I got a cutter with the company logo as a gift in the shipment. This cutter became my favorite almost overnight. Although it looks a bit flimsy it works unbelievably well. It is light, precise enough, has a low profile and a relatively long beak (compared to the Lindstrom), which makes them perfect for cutting component leads close to the PCB, cabling up to 1.3mm as well as things like shrink tube or Helaglass sleeving.It turned out to be a rebranded Piergiacomi (TRE-03-NB). For less than €10,- you get a cutter that cuts anything you throw at it. I now own a couple and although the first one starts to look a bit worse for wear after being heavily used, it still cuts fine. The Lindstrom is still on my desk but gets very little use.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 06:14:57 pm
content: Quote from: woody on February 03, 2025, 05:02:21 pmThey're OK for occasional light duty work. If you can get them for EUR 5-6 then it makes some sensehttps://www.dpv-elektronik.de/Products/Pliers/Cutting-pliers/Diagonal-cutting-pliers-TRE-03-NB-D.html?language=enBut otherwise get Knipex as usually Piergiacomi costs more like EUR 10+, and with Knipex you get 50x durability for 1.5-1.8 x the price.

author: rdenney
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2025, 06:33:57 pm
content: I have a pair of Knipex cutters, plus an old and tiny pair of Utica cutters. Recently, I bought a larger Weller rebrand of Xcelite cutters on sale. Don’t have ‘em out of that package, yet. My favorite big cutters are made by Tsunoda for the Japanese market.Rick “hard to avoid fakes of Hakko and other Japanese brands” Denney

author: artvandalai
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2025, 03:13:07 am
content: what Wiha models?

author: artvandalai
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2025, 05:10:01 am
content: Can you state what models you find using the most?

author: G7PSK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2025, 02:53:03 pm
content: I have found that some ex telecoms cutters I have are the best. No idea of the manufacturer as they are just marked GPO and Sweden, 20G piano wire.Made for cutting telephone line which has a steel core, nothing seems to mark the cutting edge.

author: rdenney
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2025, 04:01:42 pm
content: I use the Knipex the most unless it’s not handy. It gets taken away from the bench for projects elsewhere in the shop. The little Utica cutters get used a lot. These were made for phone/company technicians.The Xcelite and Tsunoda cutters will become the circulating tools so that the Knipex cat stay on the bench.Rick “bench migration is a problem” Denney

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 05, 2025, 04:08:32 pm
content: QuoteI had a pair of the uk equivalent,as you say they were great with the added advantage if they did get ruined youd just buy your friendly telephone engineer a pint and they'd get em swapped out for a new pair.The only disadvantage was they wernt insulated,but we never cut live wires do we.

author: connectTek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2025, 10:28:01 am
content: Lindstrom for me.Used them as a Telstra/Telecom tech in the 80s and 90s and still using them.Tough as.

author: ZGoode
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2025, 04:17:20 pm
content: Quote from: rdenney on February 03, 2025, 06:33:57 pmAlways exciting to find another fan of the Tsunoda stuff. Where do you source them? I bought a few pairs nearly a decade back in Japan, but have never tried buying them stateside yet.

author: EPAIII
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2025, 09:59:27 am
content: I have about 5 pairs of Kline Tools #D2755. They work well, cut dead flush, have nice rubberized handles, and are made in the USA. The Chinese copy them: draw your own conclusions.https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-5-in-Light-Weight-Flush-Cutter-Pliers-D2755/100647983https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klein-Tools-5-in-Electrical-Cutting-Pliers/5014601853

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2025, 12:40:29 pm
content: This made me curious about the cutters I'm using, which are Bernstein 3-?01-12's, with the parts of the type number worn off after 40 years of use. Apart from one tiny nick on the blades they're mostly as new. I expect they'll outlast me.

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2025, 12:47:34 pm
content: If we already have this thread, let me ask this:Anyone knows side cutters with some sort of isolated cover on the outside? We have to work on batteries, cut the leads and I would like to avoid accidental short circuits. Unfortunately, it's not possible to do without voltage, as these are batteries.

author: rdenney
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2025, 04:20:10 pm
content: Most have insulated handles. What else do you need?Rick “not sure of the use case” Denney

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2025, 05:41:21 pm
content: Quotenot sde cutters,but totally insulatedhttps://warwickts.com/956/Sibille-PINC4CE-Insulated-Universal-Pliers

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2025, 11:36:37 pm
content: Quote from: rdenney on February 14, 2025, 04:20:10 pmLess sparks and general badness, when the worker would short out batteries.The terminals to be cut are like 10mm from each other.

author: JohanH
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2025, 09:28:31 am
content: These seem legit, but they are large:https://en.derancourt.com/Insulating-diagonal-cutters-with-ceramic-cutting-edges.htmlThen there are small types:https://www.aliexpress.com/i/1005005955345958.html

author: tszaboo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2025, 09:49:26 am
content: Quote from: JohanH on February 15, 2025, 09:28:31 amThe first one looks a bit big, but I give it a try.The second one is too small for sure.Thanks.

author: faraday
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2025, 09:54:10 am
content: I use KNIPEX they last decades

author: Jeff eelcr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2025, 02:47:56 pm
content: I found a good one at O'Reilly auto parts, HD unit, flush cut, angled tip, quality manufactured.Have to get part number at work. (12445)Jeff

author: artvandalai
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2025, 10:30:09 am
content: How does Tsunoda cutters compare to knipex or Lindstrom quality?

author: ZGoode
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2025, 04:37:47 pm
content: They don't have as wide of a selection from what I've seen out of the big players (Lindstrom, APEX, knipex, etc), but the few Tsunoda's I have are fantastic. It just looks like they're a little hard to come by outside of Japan. My current set from them was purchased direct at one of their showrooms in Niigata a few years back.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2025, 06:18:31 pm
content: Quote from: artvandalai on January 30, 2025, 08:55:23 pmIf the cutters could be used by more than one person and/or might be used for more than thin copper wire, then just buy the cheapest and throw them away when they become damaged.If the cutters need to be more general purpose, e.g. stripping insulation, thick copper wires, thin metals such as brass, then get any bigger decent brand. I've been using one no-name diagonal cutter since 1975.If only you will use the cutters, and you will never cut, for example, steel, then I like Lindstrom. I've been using the same pair since 1981.You might like to consider the profile of the blades, e.g. full flush cut vs other types.

author: SteveThackery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2025, 09:54:56 pm
content: Lindstrom!

author: geralds
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2025, 05:26:13 pm
content: I just ordered a pair of Knipex 78 61 140 ESD. This is the burnished steel, larger version (140), hardened to some 64HRC. Note that the smaller versions and the polished versions seem to be some 54HRC only.https://www.knipex.com/en-uk/products/electronics-pliers/electronic-super-knips-xl-esd

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2025, 05:31:31 pm
content: What's the hole for in the handle?The product datasheet and web page don't say anything about it.

author: geralds
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 25, 2025, 05:55:55 pm
content: Not sure, may be for the opening spring / opening limiter. I should receive mine tomorrow and will check and post pic.PS: Just checked on YT. Here is a comparison of the smaller (125) non-ESD version against the Chinese Plato from Ali. Also interesting re durability (but I will most likely keep the Knipex...)https://youtu.be/pS4PfDsCTAc?feature=shared

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2025, 08:10:58 am
content: If you're getting those, don't miss theRLA?H?IO cuttersfrom Ali. Or perhapsPCAFC cutters.But speaking of those, is there some vaguely legit source for them on Ali or are they all fakes and you need to get them from Mouser/Element14/etc at five times the price?

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2025, 09:16:58 am
content: The problem with the cheap generic Chinese side-cutters of this style is the heat treatment. Good quality side-cutters only have the jaw edges fully hardened, with the rest of the jaw, pivot region etc. unhardened or at a spring temper for toughness. The cheap ones have fully hardened jaws (presumably because its easier to simply dip-quench the business end and skip annealing the pivot and jaw backs), and are prone to brittle fracture at the root of the jaw where the section changes or at the pivot hole. Often this happens without the cutters being abused, when cutting materials and diameters within their nominal ratings!OTOH when some numpty grabs cutters off your bench to cut a spring, shedding a jaw off $2 cutters, that you can lean on the numpty to replace, is vastly preferable to them notching the edge of your $expen$ive$ good cutters with no chance of replacement. . . .

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2025, 09:32:53 am
content: its no longer cheap to make when you do proper heat treatFor a EE that uses a single side cutter most of their life, just pay for the ergonomic one. in the end it won't matter how neat your wires are cut but if you have hand problems when you get old.I am convinced that it can lead to repeated strain injury. I have a shit load of different cutters and switch it up because I randomly shuffle them.. each one has a different grip and it holds and presses slightly differently.It;'s a pretty serious concern of mine, especially because of keyboard and mouse... and driving... I think you should take whatever benefit you can getOver a 10 year period it might be actually worth to think about if you want the little one for fine wire or a medium one or some hard wire cutter.Even with tools in the shop, i used to do everything with my klien side cutter (the heavy one). but then I invested in a hard wire cutter and a mini bolt cutter. Much less strainI still need to get that x-cut leveraged cutter.I see some people get physical therapy for their hands and it makes all the extravagant hand tool purchases look like a joke lolI always used to come across a co worker that would say they would not make enough profit if they got some better tool.. then after 600 crimps without a auto crimper on some car.. they have crab hands for 3 weeks.What I don't like about copies is that they try to make it LOOK like something but for ergonomics if you have like a research project to figure out how to make a good grip its like pretty damn specific with the angles and thicknesses for a particular design... false sense of security. I can actually believe that erem or lindstrom might have had a expert actually certify whatever claims they have about the hands and ergonomics.

author: geralds
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2025, 10:16:29 am
content: I received my new Knipex 78 61 140 ESD this morning. They don't seem to be really flush, there is a small edge between the blades. Also, the blades look a bit rough. They do cut paper though.Is this normal? For EUR 23 I would have expected better quality, in particular from Knipex.I will probably return these, and try the non-ESD version, and maybe also try a pair of Piergiacomi TR5000R, as well as the Plato (Plafo?) and VCELink or similar from Ali...

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2025, 10:50:53 am
content: Quote from: geralds on May 26, 2025, 10:16:29 amThe legit ones arePlato, the Ali ones are anything but. Plate-o perhaps.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2025, 11:43:33 am
content: new Lindstrom cutters and old Lindstrom cutters are not always the same.I've yet to figure out how to tell which is what when buying but I've had excellent quality new Lindstroms and mediocre quality new Lindstroms.Where as all my old ones are excellent.Only thing i recommend is staying away from the blue ones and stick to yellow.Some blue are ok, but ive never had a bad yellow one.but maybe its something unrelated to color, dunno

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2025, 11:46:06 am
content: Quote from: geralds on May 26, 2025, 10:16:29 amThat is what the manufacturer promisedhttps://www.knipex.com/products/electronics-pliers/electronic-super-knips-xl/electronic-super-knips-xl/7861140Quote

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 26, 2025, 12:02:51 pm
content: ^AlsoQuote

author: shabaz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2025, 12:26:50 pm
content: The Knipex catalog (Knipex downloads page) indicates what all the vast amount of symbols on the product pages refer to; some are really obscure looking and I only discovered from that catalog. A subset of symbols is in the screen-capture below. The flushness level sort of symbol is the red one, the diagram is not to scale obviously! but indicates that it should have been quite flush, but there's a level which produces an even flatter cut (but the blades may be more delicate, would perhaps be the compromise).

author: geralds
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2025, 12:50:58 pm
content: Thank you all for the quick replies. These should be flush as in the last picture (with the purple line). Though I have just noticed that one of the blades is already indented, so Amazon may have sent me a used, returned item... I will send them back, and order the others for review. Will revert once I have received the others.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 26, 2025, 01:06:21 pm
content: IMHO it looks like just a very thin leftover metal left on the blade edge during sharpening process and can be easily scraped off or it will go away by itself if you cut wire with that part of the blade.

author: shabaz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 26, 2025, 01:48:45 pm
content: I really like Knipex tools, I probably have a dozen at home. I'm sure you'll find something from Knipex that you'll be happy with.I don't have a very flush pair of Knipex cutters, for no real reason except that it was in stock at Fry's, I went with Erem (Weller) 622N, the photo shows a pair which is about 12 years old now. It's only seen average use, there is some wear and tear, but not a lot. And I believe the surface oxidization is because of the environment mostly.Anyway, just as a data point, the cut wire photograph shows a 0.5 mm diameter tinned copper wire, done with these cutters (the flush side is on the left obviously!). The cut is fairly flush. These cutters are quite expensive nowadays however : ( They were probably half the price when I bought them.

author: artvandalai
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2025, 06:19:19 pm
content: Can someone explain what hardness is appropriate for what to not ruin my cutters? Ill be getting knipex or lindstrom

author: rdenney
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2025, 10:16:43 pm
content: Hardenable steel is hardened by heating it to above the critical temperature (cherry red, about 1500 degrees depending on the alloy) and then quenching it in the appropriate medium to cool it quickly enough for the grains to freeze as they are. That is usually oil or water for tool steels. Tool steels will often end up well into the 60's on the Rockwell C hardness scale. This is really hard but also brittle, and the brittleness will make it easy for the blade to chip. To reduce brittleness, after the scale is removed, it is heated again to temper the steel. This reduces the hardness somewhat but increases the toughness. For cutters, I would expect these to be tempered to a Rockwell C hardness of maybe 58, and the tempering technique will be to heat it to about 500 degrees (dark straw, not blue), depending on the alloy, and then allowed to cool slowly. To increase the toughness down by the hinge even more, I would think they would hardened the whole piece, and then heat it from the handle end and let the heat travel to the blade. By the time the blade turns dark straw, the handle and hinge will be much hotter, maybe 650 degrees and more of a gray color. They'll take away the heat before the blade reaches dark straw, so that it won't ever get above about 500, or they'll use a special heading jig that controls the temperature in different parts.That's about 0.001% of what there is to know about hardening steel.For comparison, axes usually have high-carbon hardenable steel forged-welded onto the low-carbon shank, which is the part into which the haft is installed. It ends up at about 52-55 HRC at the blade, about the same as decent screwdrivers. This if for wood only. Exotic-steel knives are in the low 60's, and use exotic steels that can retain toughness at that hardness. D2 is an example. Machine tools are usually made from something like O2--oil-quenched tool steel. High-speed steel is hardened to the mid-to-upper 60's to be useful for cutting steel in machine tools.None of that was what the last poster askedTo answer his question:Steel at 58 HRC will cut annealed low-carbon steel and soft metals without damage, but could be damaged by tough steels (like stainless) or hard steels (like music wire). For cutting hard wire, I would use a Dremel cut-off tool--hardened steel is hard to cut with edges and is usually ground when it needs machining. I've milled steel that was in the low 50's using carbide tooling in the Bridgeport mill, but it was exciting. Nippers would do poorly with wire that hard. Copper, brass, and aluminum wire are far less hard than any steel.So, never use one-hand wire-cutters with sharp blades for steel wire unless it's very small and very soft. If it's springy at all, use a Dremel cut-off wheel. For bolts, use bolt cutters or a cut-off wheel on an angle grinder. Bolt cutters are not sharp but they are hard and tough. Cutters for larger copper wire are sharp, but really can't be used for anything else.Rick "wire cutters for soft metals only" Denney

author: geralds
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2025, 10:45:17 pm
content: I had a look at the Piergiacomi website, which I found insightful (having no particular knowledge about cutters...). They seem to have different cutters for numerous requirements / cutting styles etc.I haven't decided yet, but tend to order the TRR 58 G which seems to be the "strongest" (though query whether this means "most universal" and whether it is also good for finer wires?).https://www.piergiacomi.com/en/cutting-idea/?gdpr=reloadhttps://www.piergiacomi.com/en/catalogue/cutters/flush-cutting-edge/

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 28, 2025, 11:13:37 pm
content: Piergiacomi are made of shit steel, forget about durability. Even cutting component leads made of soft iron will wear them out.

author: geralds
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2025, 11:59:14 pm
content: Hm, ok, thanks, but aren't for example the Hakko 170 cutters rebranded Piergiacomis? Understood that they are generally not considered high-end, but had thought that they are way better than the chinese options. Maybe I was also mistaken here.Would you then recommend to try Knipex again?I found the cheaper Plato are also available as "stronger" versions, e.g. 170S or 1755.https://www.techspray.com/Content/Images/uploaded/Documents/PLATO%20170S%20Brochure.pdfMy (expected) use case should be mainly to cut THT components (e.g. when replacing caps), and possibly some smaller wires. For wider / harder wires I have a side/wire cutter (also Knipex, and am very happy with it, but far too big for cutting in smaller/tighter spaces).The high end cutters (Lindstrom, Erem) are out of my budget (even if they last much longer). If it is worth it, I will try Knipex again.

author: Someone
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2025, 12:14:08 am
content: Quote from: geralds on May 28, 2025, 11:59:14 pmWhat is the problem with using the tool you already have for that?

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 29, 2025, 12:29:07 am
content: Quote from: geralds on May 28, 2025, 11:59:14 pmYes those are rebranded Piergiacomi. They are nice on the first glace but not even remotely as durable as Knipex. They should be better than most of the cheap stuff from China but I would not consider them for any serious use.QuoteThey have iron leads that IME can wear the cutting edge of Piergiacomi pretty quickly.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2025, 01:20:03 am
content: Quote from: rdenney on May 28, 2025, 10:16:43 pmA small comment here, the Japanese love their impulse-hardened saw blades  where only the teeth are hardened (and therefore made more brittle), the rest stays very flexible. I wonder if you can do the same for cutters, so you're only heating the small section you want to harden? As does anyone else who uses them.

author: artvandalai
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2025, 09:03:58 pm
content: What lindstrom cutter models are made in Switzerland? It looks like all of them are made in Spain now.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2025, 10:00:28 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on May 29, 2025, 12:29:07 amWith the proportion of ferrous TH component leads these days, it's worth checking ebay for Orthodontic Tungsten Carbide tipped side cutters. They're excellent value (no tears if you chip them) and designed for cutting hard stainless steel wire. The quality is good enough to be used in peoples' mouths. There's a large variety of unusual shapes too.If you don't like the gold plated handles then put on a couple of layers of heatshrink sleeving. I've never seen fully flush. but you can get semi flush, good enough for TH stuff.Keep your fully flush cutters for soft copper.

author: aeg
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 30, 2025, 11:51:07 pm
content: Quote from: wraper on May 28, 2025, 11:13:37 pmFor disposable cutters, do you have an opinion on Plato versus Xcelite versus Piergiacomi?

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2025, 12:17:36 am
content: Quote from: artvandalai on May 30, 2025, 09:03:58 pmNone, since Lindström isn’t, and never was, a Swiss company. It used to be Swedish. (Now it’s part of Snap-on, apparently…)Their website says all their tools are made in Spain:https://www.lindstromtools.com/ie_en/manufacturingErem are still made in Switzerland. But I don’t know whether their cutter quality today is the same as 10 years ago. Their tweezer quality appears to have taken a nosedive since Weller bought the company.The confusion of Switzerland and Sweden is… never-ending. When I had moved back to USA after living in Switzerland the first time, you can’t imagine how many people asked “Oh, you lived in Switzerland? How’s your Swedish?”, to which I eventually started replying “well, since I’ve never been to Sweden, all the Swedish I know is what I learned from the IKEA catalog!”

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2025, 02:58:32 am
content: weller got finite element disease in engineering. I had one of their better soldering irons snap at the neck because it looks like someone trust some insane proposition regarding jointery from a simulator that must have made green when it should have been red (some ridiculously stupid looking press fit joint)they probably determined through careful analysis that they should fuck things up to save on alloys or electricity for the tweezersit needs to be a warthog but they make it a giraffe with bone diseasei think maybe they should have second thoughts about trusting the magic whizzwham they are putting in the CAD program advertisements made by bored programmers looking to sell magic features (they must be in cahoots with the plastic people)using too many bushings, threads and screws is NOT the thing keeping weller from being on top of the soldering systems food chain... but someone convinced them that it isseriously its a remarkably flimsy piece of shit (in e waste now). I don't need it to bend in half (fall apart) with a 1/4 inch tip and give someone a solder burn, and this happened with a tiny chisel tip while soldering 30 awg wire to a single layer proto board (not over taxing the shitty thermal system)

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2025, 06:11:31 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on May 31, 2025, 02:58:32 amWhat they saved on is labor: the pair I bought some years ago (and sent back, after photographing them compared to an older pair of the same model) was ground extremely poorly. They were simply not “precision” anymore. Imprecise grinding with a much coarser grit.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2025, 07:50:43 am
content: Quote from: tooki on May 31, 2025, 12:17:36 amI can believe thatIn the 50s my parents emigrated to the US. After a couple of weeks a (pleasant and friendly) shop assistant remarked that they spoke the language remarkably well for someone that had only been there a fortnight. Another asked which ocean they crossed to get to the US.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 31, 2025, 10:00:16 am
content: Quote from: tooki on May 31, 2025, 12:17:36 amThey don't make it easy though. I have a friend, blond hair, blue eyes, European accent, name of Sven.... he's Spanish. It took my mind awhile to get over that lot of cognitive dissonance.

author: artvandalai
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2025, 09:32:50 pm
content: How are you guys storing your cutters and pliers? I was looking to buy a storage rack like this but ill probably 3d print something instead.

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 27, 2025, 10:13:02 pm
content: 'Well used' in constant use ones.

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 28, 2025, 06:49:42 pm
content: Quote from: artvandalai on June 27, 2025, 09:32:50 pmThere are a bunch of 3D printable designs on Thingiverse and Printables. I have printed a couple of the designs and they work well for me. I can check the exact ones I decided on when I am next in the office.I also use a plastic paintbrush holder for keeping a lot of my smaller screwdrivers and other tools organised. It is a 10x10 grid with 96 spots and it isn't enough...

author: HumbleDeer
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2025, 09:41:42 pm
content: I use something I designed for my honeycomb storage wall that uses magnets to retain my pliers by the handle piece. I just chuck one of the handle arms in the holder, and it sits there ready for me to pull it off the wall again soon after. It's not as convenient as storing them on my desk, but it beats the mess and the risk of damage that comes from a drawer-full.Edit: One of the sets of pliers I use most frequently nowadays, is a 140mm version of the Super Knips. But I get the black-atramized version. The edge hardness is higher on them. I discovered I need that feature, because my stainless ones were wrecked in a couple hours. I do have to burnish the edge on a new pair after a little while because it develops a burr right where the two edges meet at a slight offset, and it pushes the edge over.The only time I legitimately tried to sharpen a pair, was also the time they ended up with handles that closed 5 mm closer to each other than they did when new. For the uninitiated, that means I screwed up and I had to do a whole lot of re-re-re-re-re-re-regrinding what I screwed up.

author: 5U4GB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2025, 05:52:15 am
content: Quote from: artvandalai on June 27, 2025, 09:32:50 pmAliexpress alu storage rack targeted at drone users, there's probably close to 100% overlap with the sort of stuff electronics guys need to store and lots of vendors addressing the drone-user market.

author: Kean
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 29, 2025, 10:42:03 am
content: The 3D printed stands I am using from Thingiverse areSmall:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3063454Large:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2572892I forgot to mention that I recently got a "screwdriver organiser" from AliExpress that has holes plenty big enough for pliers.https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005008146805432.htmlI've not yet mounted it at my other assembly bench, but it looked useful so I have ordered a couple for my home workshop.

author: Simmed
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2025, 05:37:52 pm
content: i wanted to highlight there is "hobby" cutterwhich i saw by chance on utubehttps://www.youtube.com/@FillRoomPlan/videosand inside there is the interesting cutter they use called "godhand"following this to amazonthere is an entire otherworld of "other nippers"which may lead to many hours of lookingthen following godhand on searchit leads to tsunodahttps://www.tsunoda-japan.com/EN/itempage/MEN-115.htmltool steel HRC 58++this appears to be on amazon for under $25which is a surprisethe hobby nipper exampleappear to have much thicker grips (more comfy ?)tool steel HRC 54++https://www.tsunoda-japan.com/EN/itempage/TM-16.htmljust an interesting random find

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2025, 06:15:52 pm
content: My go to nippers, which I seem to use for everything that doesn't need ultra-sharp or specialised shape, are pro'skit PK701Can't recall when or where I got them, but it was a long time ago. They're still OK but this thread reminded me they won't last forever, so I've had a look for replacements. I have some very nice Lindstrom, but I ain't gonna waste those on random things that cross my bench. On a whim I grabbed these:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005914241651.htmlCost about £3 delivered so not got high expectations. But they seem to be quite reasonable - very sharp right now, edges meet exactly, etc. I am not unhappy so far.Also got:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006893842895.htmlAttraction of those are the grub screws which limit the blade movement. I've adjusted them so the blades don't quite touch but are close enough to cleanly snip a wire. Have hopes that these are going to lost longer than the £3 ones!

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2025, 07:42:04 pm
content: Quote from: tooki on May 31, 2025, 06:11:31 amIf its just the grinding its possible to fix it, I fixed all of my tweezers last year over the course of a few weeks using diamond laps and stuff.What I found is that some of them bend easy. I got the surface finish and shape OK for all of them, using diamonds of various grits, but its plainly obviously that some of them are just soft.I think they have trouble hardening thin objects properly to make it not brittle (more expensive control) or just are using cheap steels that don't work well at all.

author: jpyeron
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2025, 12:46:56 am
content: so cool.... If I had money to waste ...ISO 5742 was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 29, Small tools, Subcommittee SC 10, Assembly tools for screws and nuts, pliers and nippers.This second edition cancels and replaces the first edition (ISO 5742:1982) together with ISO 5742:1982/Add.1:1985 which have been technically revised.Only informative sections of standards are publicly available. To view the full content, you will need to purchase the standard by clicking on the "Buy" button.Bibliography ISO 5745, Pliers and nippers — Pliers for gripping and manipulating — Dimensions and test values ISO 5746, Pliers and nippers — Engineer's and lineman's pliers — Dimensions and test values ISO 5747, Pliers and nippers — Lever assisted side cutting pliers, end and diagonal cutting nippers — Dimensions and test values ISO 5748, Pliers and nippers — End cutting nippers — Dimensions and test values ISO 5749, Pliers and nippers — Diagonal cutting nippers — Dimensions and test values ISO 8976, Pliers and nippers — Multiple slip joint pliers — Dimensions and test values ISO 9242, Pliers and nippers — Construction worker's pincers — Dimensions and test values ISO 9243, Pliers and nippers — Carpenter's pincers — Dimensions and test values ISO 9343, Pliers and nippers — Slip joint pliers — Dimensions and test values

author: jpyeron
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2025, 12:54:23 am
content: Quote from: PlainName on August 02, 2025, 06:15:52 pmThis seems nice with the set screws, I have always used my finger as the spacer (like my grandfather taught me)

author: PlainName
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2025, 07:53:32 am
content: Hopefully not between the jaws