3D Systems CUBE 3D printer, Repair attempt, (no heating) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2015, 02:28:34 pm
content: I bought this broken 3D Systems CUBE 3D printer from Toploser, knowing that it would not heat up at all.See the sales thread here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/fs-%28uk%29-3d-systems-cube-3d-printer/So, today I took it apart for the first time.The inline thermal fuse that is strapped to the extruder has 0.05 Ohm resistance and 77°C printed on it.It seems to be OKThe Heating element (2 white PTFE wires) has a resistance of 28 OhmsSeems to be OK tooThe NTC (2 purple wires) has 200k at room temp and dropped to 100k, as soon as I bring some hot air to the extruder.This also seems to be ok.Any suggestions, what to test next?I think I will open the bottom part and take a look at the power circuit for the extruder.

author: singapol
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2015, 04:21:08 pm
content: All electric circuits need power to work so the extruder is no exception.It could be possible the extruder is open circuit thus it does not heat up so need a replacement if the power supply is still functioning.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2015, 04:39:13 pm
content: I would look at the temperature controller, either a dry joint or a failed semiconductor device, or a shorted wire to the sensor.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2015, 05:00:09 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on August 22, 2015, 02:28:34 pmthe mosfet driving the heat element

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2015, 05:58:02 pm
content: Thank you all for the feedback.The solution was much more simple.The heater supply cable was squeezed between the PCB and a mounting hole and was shortened.As unbelievable as it sounds, that is what it was.After "fixing" this little problem the heater started to work right away and the extruder got hot.So hot, that my FLIR E4 (updated) was only showing >280 degree CBut.... after I fed the ABS material in to the feeder and all seemed to work, the printer got stuck.So I restarted and suddenly it is asking me for an activation codeSince this printer was registered before, it complains during the registration, that this serial number has been activated beforeInteresting world, in which we have to activate a standard hardware printer.It seems I have to send them a mail and release the first activation of this printer.Anyhow, more to come, I guess

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2015, 05:59:51 pm
content: And some more pictures of the PCB

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 23, 2015, 04:59:22 pm
content: OK, after many emails exchanged with the Cube support staff, I got the printer "activated" and a new firmware installed.The extruder is heating up perfectly during the cartridge exchange and feeding of the material.The ABS comes out of the hot nozzle as I would expect it to do.But, as soon as I select a file for printing from the USB stick, the printer stops and does not do anything.I would think it is waiting for the nozzle to heat up but the extruder stays cold and nothing happens.At this stage there is also no voltage at the heating element.Anyone having an idea, what to do next?

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 23, 2015, 10:19:13 pm
content: "Loading print file" stuck on the screen.Maybe try a different USB stick?

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 08:02:10 am
content: Quote from: TopLoser on August 23, 2015, 10:19:13 pmYes, I tried a few different sticks already.The last support mail I got from cube said to leave it alone and wait.So, I left it alone over night and still have the same message on the screen this morning.The support team also said, that the heater will only turn on after the print file has been processed completely. And based on the message "Loading print file" it has not been processed by the Cube. Hmm... seems to be a software issue?Well, one good thing is the responsiveness of the Cube support team.Once I had their email address, ( cubifysupport@cubify.com ) they responded withing minutes.And their help to get the Cube activated and a new FW installed was perfect.I will just write them another mail to figure out this last problem.BTW, if someone needs it, here is a link to the latest FW 2.08https://3dsystems.teamplatform.com/l/a17b9803

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 08:16:45 am
content: What about sending the file to it via the wifi connection?

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 08:25:23 am
content: Quote from: TopLoser on August 24, 2015, 08:16:45 amFor some other reasons, I can not connect to wifi, although I am entering the correct wifi password, when the Cube is asking for it.I think I have to hook up an older access point and remove all security settings.That would be a good next step, before Cube support will answer.Tanks

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 09:35:05 am
content: OK, I found a really old WiFi Access Point and hooked it up to the network with unrestricted access.The Cube found the AP right away and connected without any problemsThe PC saw the Cube right away on the list of "Cube currently on LAN via Wi-Fi"Clicking on connect, establishes what seems to be a good connection > "Successfully connected to Cube"Importing and building a 3D model also seems to work perfectlyBut...As soon as I click on "PRINT" it hangs and nothing shows up on the Cube displayIt is suppose to ask, if I want to print the file that is just being sent by WiFiHmm. I guess I have to wait and see what the Cube support has to say.Yesterday they told me I should re-flash the firmware 3 times!LOLI made some screenshots, mainly for the cube support peopleHere they are attached.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 07:51:46 pm
content: This is the answer I just got in regards to WiFi, LOLHello,The Cube 2 WiFi connectivity is not compatible with most current network structures, and we advise that users stick with USB drive file transfers.Please let us know if you have any additional questions.Hmmm, back to the USB drivesMay be it is the same as with the Agilent scopes and the Cube takes only special USB thumb drives.

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 08:42:53 pm
content: Next reply from tech support about which USB stick to use will say "Cube only works with certain unspecified memory devices and we recommend wifi transfer of files"!!

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 09:45:27 pm
content: Sorry to hear about your problems getting this printer to work.I was going to buy it from Toploser but I did some background reading on it and decided otherwise. Sadly your experiences with this printer are not uncommon 😔 Many users report the sudden failure to heat the extruder and an inability to get the printer to accept print files. Though you have had good communications with the support team, most reports I have read state that the printer had to be returned to the agent for rectification work. Sadly no detail of the causes was provided with the returned machine. One chap had three of these printers, all failed to print after a short period of use.Bearing in mind the above, unlike many products, I think you need to look at this printer as a flawed firmware or PCB that needs more investigation into exactly what is, and is not functioning.My UP! mini has calibration and test modes that are controlled by the PC. Does your printer have a setup mode that allows you to activate the print function to ensure that at least the X Y Z and extruder functionality is correct. This is important as if the printer detects an issue with its functionality it may go into a fault loop that prevents loading of the print file.Are you certain that the file you are trying to load is compatible with the printer. I have read the files produced by some 3D CAD programs do not work with some 3D printers despite being the correct type.Maybe customer support can send you a file that they know works with their printer.I am new to 3D printing so cannot offer expert help. I am aware that some brands of printer are very fussy about how they are fed ! I am appalled that the printer cannot cope with modern WiFi .... That is just plain daft. This printer is not that old so I suspect that the WiFi transceiver is flawed in some way that they cannot fix through a firmware update.I am honestly sorry that you are having these issues but hope you discover a way forward. I would help if I could. The most common failure on your printer is said to be extruder heater failure to heat so keep this in mind. Your problem could still be hardware failure instigated.Aurora

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 10:03:51 pm
content: Give tech support a few more days to sort it out. If there's no solution then just chuck it in the trash and you have some credit against your next 'bargain'. Sorry it's been a bit of an ordeal despite being such a trivial fix.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 10:18:13 pm
content: @Toploser,You are always very honest with us when selling your equipment. I can only speak for myself, but when buying equipment that is stated as faulty, I expect to face a challenge and, for me, that is part of the fun. I see nothing in this sale for you to be at all sorry about. You sold a faulty unit at a knock down price. Nout wrong with that. I decided not to buy as I already have the UP! Mini and another £200 was overloading my hobby budget for that month.If the OP gets fed up with this printer, I would offer it a home if we could agree a value.Aurora

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 10:34:38 pm
content: Quote from: Aurora on August 24, 2015, 09:45:27 pmSame here. I've read that this printer can be pain in the ass to use and only accept very expensive proprietary filament. So decided against buying, though it was very tempting.

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 10:50:22 pm
content: It did come with an extra spool of filament though, bit of a bonus like the 2 x 64GB USB sticks that somebody found with their RasPi bargain bundles

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 10:53:32 pm
content: Your a good and very honourable man Ian, never doubt itAurora

author: TopLoser
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 24, 2015, 11:07:18 pm
content: Thank youMarmite is the word you were looking for though haha

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2015, 01:48:20 am
content: I like MarmiteAurora

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2015, 08:34:24 am
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on August 24, 2015, 07:51:46 pmtry different usb/sd stick, if all fail, dont trash it there is still last hope... you already have the complete hardware, the problem is software. if you check the main mcu is atmel avr then probably you can look into reflashing the latest marlin FW, but thats one a battle to learn...good luck.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2015, 08:45:52 am
content: Thanks for all your feedback.I am traveling for the next few days and will try a few new USB sticks with different formatting when I am back.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2015, 10:47:39 am
content: Some devices need older small capacity USB sticks. Modern large capacity sticks cause them problems.Try one that is less than 512MB.Aurora

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2015, 10:53:54 am
content: Quote from: Aurora on August 25, 2015, 10:47:39 amThanks, I will do that this coming weekend.It is a surprise that a modern machine would have this limitation.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2015, 10:55:14 am
content: Quote from: Aurora on August 24, 2015, 10:53:32 pm+1I have the highest respect for Ian, always perfect transactions.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2015, 12:27:42 pm
content: @Highvoltage,I agree on the USB stick compatibility. The machine should cope with anything, but it potentially has a firmware issue. The Rigol 1052E and many other DSO's are fussy about USB stick size and chipset. Weird but true. Remember their comment on the Wi-Fi compatibility....that should not be an issue on modern equipment either.I presume you have trawled the NET to see if a user group or other forums comment on similar issues. As you likely know, sometimes the user community offer better help than a the OEM customer support staff.Your machine has a 'OEM only' locked down filament cartridge and I suspect hacked firmware will exist to overcome this..... It may be worth trying some 'improved' community sourced firmware ?This hurdle will hopefully be overcome when you have more time to study the issue and possible options. Hope it works out for you.Aurora

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2015, 02:05:46 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on August 22, 2015, 05:58:02 pm3D printer manufacturers are obviously trying the same profit-extracting tricks as 2D ones. If I were you, that would probably be the next thing I'd "fix"...After all, the full firmware is available.Then again, I'm probably one of the few who enjoy carefully tracing through code...

author: soso
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 21, 2016, 06:45:49 pm
content: Hello eveyoneI have one of these 3d systems cubify, and it was given to me by a friend because he know I like to fix broken things, the only problem is the hotend and extruder is dead.. I've seen a video of this same printer with a different hotend and extruder, from another printer.. maybe it was the mk8 not sure.. My question is can I used the parts for the broken 3d systems printer, to make a working 3d printer? or are the parts married to the mobo of this printer??Thanks guys

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2016, 11:18:13 pm
content: Quote from: soso on April 21, 2016, 06:45:49 pmgoto reprap forum and you'll be surprised how one printer maybe the reincarnation of another osshw printer. in fact if not because of stratasys "heated chamber" patent, everything will become stratasys alike... the simple answer is yes..

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2016, 03:48:32 pm
content: Quote from: soso on April 21, 2016, 06:45:49 pmFor sure that should be possible.BTW, I gave up on the repair, since nothing worked. No matter what USB stick I tried and no matter what format, the files could not be loaded. The CUBE service people were very helpful but at the end they also had no answers.Well, I gave the printer to a friend and he is now using some parts to make his own printer.

author: soso
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 27, 2016, 06:29:05 pm
content: Thanks for the reply,,I was thinking of getting ramps 1.4 and using the cubify motors and frame, maybe it will work, it will be fun to try..

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2016, 08:54:34 pm
content: I would chuck the crappy proprietary controller and put a proven board with open source firmware in it, ideally something supported by the RepRap project. Then you will get rid of the proprietary filament requirement as well.The mechanics is likely sound and that is the largest cost of any 3D printer anyway.

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 28, 2016, 06:26:05 pm
content: Quote from: janoc on April 27, 2016, 08:54:34 pmYou have any suggestion of what would be a "proven" board?

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2016, 07:35:45 pm
content: There are plenty of those - e.g. the mentioned RAMPS, those are the most common on the cheap printers like the Prusa derivatives. Then there is Melzi (essentially RAMPS, just all on a single board, not an Arduino shield with the stepper drivers in sockets), Sanguinololu. There are some ARM-based boards too. My Mendel90 is running on a Melzi and no issues with it so far.Here is a good list:http://reprap.org/wiki/List_of_electronics

author: cancian123
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 25, 2021, 01:48:57 pm
content: Hi Guys!I also have a Cube 2nd generation, and its extruder is not heating because the heating element is shorted.Does any of you know what kind of wire is used as the heating element of the extruder?I would like to replace it. I have already sent an email to Cubify, but they are not willing to help me. They want me to buy a new printer.Thanks a lot.

author: janoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2021, 10:57:24 pm
content: Quote from: cancian123 on February 25, 2021, 01:48:57 pmIf you want someone to help you:a) Don't necropost (you have replied to my comment from 2016!)b) Don't hijack an unrelated topic - make your own fresh post!

author: HighVoltage
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2021, 05:10:23 pm
content: Quote from: cancian123 on February 25, 2021, 01:48:57 pmHello cancian123Your problem should be fixable.Can you take the heating element apart and take some pictures.Maybe you can extract the size of the wire and estimate the diameter and length.

author: cancian123
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 03:48:09 pm
content: Quote from: janoc on February 25, 2021, 10:57:24 pmThanks you for the tips. That was really helpful.

author: cancian123
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 03:49:26 pm
content: Quote from: HighVoltage on February 26, 2021, 05:10:23 pmHi HighVoltage!I don`t have the heating element anymore. the only thing I can tell you is that it looks like a copper wire with some kind of fiberglass insulation aorund it. I never found out what type of wire it really is. I have been looking for it for a long time.I also know that the resitance of the wire is around 28 Ohms and the Voltage applied by the printer is a PWM of 24 volts, which results in approximately 20watts of powerThanks for your help!