hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
component identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Chris Moore
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 19, 2015, 02:10:07 am
content: I've recently re-entered the electronics design hobby and have toyed with it for many years. I purchased a grab bag of components from e-Bay and don't recognize some of the items or know how to identify their ratings. Is there an easy way to get these items identified so I can use them? Please help.I know what typical resistors, capacitors, transistors, and inductors look like but I have some items that don't fall into the common appearance classifications. For example, I have several molded straight line multiple pin components that look like a single side of a DIP package. I also have some small rectangular and box like devices with pins and some numbers/codes on them. Is there an online reference that I can cross check these numbers against?

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 19, 2015, 02:29:42 am
content: Quote from: Chris Moore on July 19, 2015, 02:10:07 amThe straight line multiple is probably a gang resistor network. They are used for pull ups / down on digital ICs typically.

author: djQUAN
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2015, 03:42:21 am
content: Post a link to or picture of what you have here. Lots of people can identify it for you.
Component identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cmccul002
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 02:05:14 am
content: got a bet going with someone...What is this?

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 02:26:24 am
content: Yep - it's a ceramic capacitor.1 0 4=>1 0x 104in pF=> 100,000 pF=> 100 nF=> 0.1 uFQuote from: cmccul002 on November 17, 2016, 02:05:14 amWhy can't I find people like that...?
Component Identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: yoda_bear
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2017, 07:45:11 pm
content: Can anyone confirm that this is a EEPROM component?All the datasheets I have managed to find are for a Atmel 25128 SPI EEPROM so I believe it is but the first line....Atmel 424 is throwing me off?Sorry if anything is wrong with the post, it's my first, I'll learn.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2017, 08:53:14 pm
content: Yes, it is AT25128W SPI serial EEPROM.The 424 in first line is date code in YWW format.
Component Identification from a wifi D-Link Access Point - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: hgg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2014, 08:39:17 pm
content: Hi,I have the D-Link AirPlus Xtreme G+ that stopped working and it looks like that there is abad cap which I will have to replace.On the mainboard there is a daughter board where there external aerial is connected.Do you have any idea what component is the following?I haven't seen that before. It has three solder leads and after the letter X there is a slotin which you can see a small metal part. (It does not show well in the picture)Thanks.

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2014, 09:00:00 pm
content: Sometimes following the traces to a chip and looking that up can give you clues of the surrounding circuitry.

author: hgg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2014, 09:13:40 pm
content: Good idea.The chip next to the component is the TI TNETW1130 Single Chip MAC and baseband processor.http://focus.ti.com/pdfs/bcg/tnetw1130_prod_bulletin.pdfI cannot find any datasheet with pinout though.

author: theatrus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2014, 02:19:02 am
content: It's a cheaper (non-metal) packaged 32.768khz crystal.The marking and footprint are a dead giveaway to me.

author: hgg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2014, 04:50:28 am
content: You are probably right. I cannot see any other crystal on the daugtherboard.Thank you.

author: theatrus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2014, 05:34:15 am
content: The chip "below" the crystal double leads is probably a RTC

author: hgg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 27, 2014, 05:38:03 am
content: Its the 408W ST 9345. Is that an RTC?

author: hgg
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 29, 2014, 05:32:20 pm
content: Access Point repaired! It was indeed a failed capacitor.By the way, the daughter board has two connectors. One is going to the outside aerialand the other is attached onto a long metal strip that is glued on the plastic case.No connection with any other metal parts or the main circuit board.Do you know what is the purpose of that ??
Component identification help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: danamaniac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2024, 02:59:21 am
content: Hello everyboy, need some help identifying these components, ive searched google etc with the markings, just need to be 100% sure on this.Pretty sure the sot23 components are transistors, however there are 2 banks of them and they have different markings.The component marked with JF is ?, the diode beside it what kind of diode?The other two weird 5 pin components i have no idea. Please help. Thanks

author: Kim Christensen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2024, 04:11:52 am
content: Here are my guesses:64s BAT64-04 dual diodeA7 1N4007WJF Fuse? Does it say F9 on the silkscreen next to it?H58 XC6220B08BMR-G0.85V voltage regulator IC maybe?HM can be many things. Not sure at all.1HW BC847

author: danamaniac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2024, 10:48:19 am
content: Thanks for that, i think you are mostly correct.Not sure about the .85v voltage reg, see attached picture.

author: danamaniac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2024, 10:49:07 am
content: Anyone know what the component marked HW is?

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2024, 11:28:24 am
content: Quote from: danamaniac on May 06, 2024, 10:49:07 am74HC1G125GWhttps://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/74HC_HCT1G125.pdf

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2024, 11:43:41 am
content: Quote from: danamaniac on May 06, 2024, 10:48:19 amIn my opinion it is a MC74HC1G04.https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/mc74hc1g04-d.pdf

author: danamaniac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2024, 04:52:40 pm
content: Just need help with HM (IC15) please guys thanks so much for help so far.

author: Kim Christensen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2024, 05:40:00 pm
content: Quote from: danamaniac on May 06, 2024, 04:52:40 pmIf you look here, if that's a SOT-23-5 package, then it's probably this one:R1112N411B Ricoh Linear voltage regulator IC LDO, LN, 4.1V±2%, 150mA, +CEBut if it's a SOT-353-1 package, then maybe a 74HC1G125GW as suggested by gamalot...

author: danamaniac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2024, 11:25:03 am
content: Hi lads, this will paint more of the bigger picture to help us identify the last component. Shows the Pin config and devices its connected to. Cmon we can do this

author: danamaniac
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2024, 11:34:39 am
content: Youre correct its an sot-323-5, stil not sure which component though.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2024, 12:08:59 pm
content: Quote from: danamaniac on May 07, 2024, 11:34:39 amWhy it has to be SOT323-5? Why can't it be a SOT353-1?Again, it's a 74HC1G125GW

author: Kim Christensen
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 07, 2024, 03:41:01 pm
content: Seems to fit the profile:
Component identification help - Macbook Pro M1 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: adrko
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 20, 2022, 08:23:27 pm
content: HelloI am looking for some help with identifying component or finding a substitute for itIt is a part of a touch bar circuit for a Macbook Pro M1I was told that they're schmitt buffers.I purchased those:https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/SN74AUP1G17DPWR?qs=0lQeLiL1qyasWWQSkQ%252Bp%2Fw%3D%3D&fbclid=IwAR1UOxNYgvj9NJdccyrlgLBdrV0svDM4U4NPl8PXiDoY47Z52ODZQiMgUhI5-PIN X2SONBut after a while I understood they're different parts with different pin outsThe only marking on the old chip is <<maxi>>In the schematics its called SCY99217AMX330 X2DFN-COMBOI'm attaching couple screenshotsI have tried googling it and browsing some other documentation but no luck, normally I would simply take the components from donor boards but since its a relatively a new machine its hard to find donor boards.And these chips can only be found on the M1 mac touch bar logic boardsI would prefer to avoid buying donor boards if I'm not sure replacing this chip will help me fix the boardI hope I provided all the necessary infoThank in advance

author: m k
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2022, 03:59:03 pm
content: Next time ask somebody else.DFR 3.3V LDO is simple 3.3V regulator with 1.8V enable and table in 1st picture has details.
Component identification needed please - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: GTA
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2022, 04:33:47 pm
content: I'm working to reverse engineer a vintage 90's two sided high current supply / metering / sampling board for work and this is the most complex (for me) board I have ever tried to reverse engineer. I'm muddling through it at my own pace but came across a couple of components I cannot immediately identify.I know it's some kind of diode as it's labelled CR2 but is it a Zener diode of some sort? Or just a regular high current junction diode? IFF it's a Zener, do the markings identify it's specs?As well, there are resistors highlighted in the pic and are a light blue colour. Does the colour mean anything like a tighter tolerance?Appreciate any info a more seasoned fella can offer. Thanks.

author: PA0PBZ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2022, 04:48:14 pm
content: First thing is a tantalum capacitor, 10 uF, 35 Volt. Blue smd resistors are (often) precision resistors, and looking at the values they don't seem to fit in regular ranges.

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2022, 04:56:34 pm
content: Yep

author: GTA
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2022, 05:00:25 pm
content: At first, I thought it was a cap, then I saw that CR2 symbol and it swayed me to believe it's a diode. In fact the CR2 designation is for the 6-pin LM285 - 1.2 voltage reference nearby.Thanks for the info gents.

author: HwAoRrDk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2022, 09:40:53 pm
content: WTF, SOIC-8 package for a two-pin voltage reference? Why on earth do TI make such a thing?

author: Jeff eelcr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2022, 11:58:03 pm
content: The bottom resistor is 10.0 ohms, 1% most likley.I can not read the upper two?Jeff

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2022, 07:38:55 pm
content: Quote from: HwAoRrDk on December 14, 2022, 09:40:53 pmProbably for thermal characteristics, if I had to guess. The old Nat Semi datasheet indicates that the SO case has over 40% lower thermal resistance than the SOT-23 version that’s not made anymore. That was before we had modern thermally optimized SMD packages, mind you.
Component identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: TheBrick
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2013, 09:40:06 pm
content: Help me identify this component please.Writing saysR68-J5w-A-1See attachment for pic.Google is no help. I thought is was a resister at first but if it is it only come up as 0.8 ohm.?

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2013, 09:45:01 pm
content: Pretty sure it's a resistor, though I can't make heads or tails of that picture. Take pictures with more light!! That's why it's grainy as hell. But R68 most likely means 0.68 ohm (a standard value), and if you didn't subtract the resistance of the test leads, it could easily measure 0.8. I would be tempted to guess J5w is "5 watt", but it doesn't look big enough, so perhaps that's a model number and the "-1" at the end is "1 watt".

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2013, 01:39:00 am
content: It's a 0.68 ohm , 5 watt resistor, most likely wirewound type.The convention is that the R is like a decimal point ... aka 2R2 is a 2.2 ohm , so R68 is actually 0.68 ohm.
Component label NTC1 ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jebnor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 01:04:28 am
content: I'm exploring an old Switch mode power supply which died. There is an unpopulated area "NTC1", Two pin and on the same trace, directly from mains. What could it be used for? any ideas?

author: dfmischler
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 01:08:50 am
content: Negative Temperature Coefficient? Cut the trace and put in the resistor and it limits inrush current at startup, then reduces its resistance once warmed up? Or something like that? Since we haven't been shown the circuit this is totally guesswork...

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 01:10:08 am
content: What does "on the same trace" mean? I don't know how to read that.As to NTC1 it could mean an NTC thermistor (negative temperature coefficient), used for inrush limiting. Otherwise the capacitors on the input side of the supply will provide an effective short circuit across the mains when first powered up.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 01:15:53 am
content: Quote from: IanB on July 26, 2013, 01:10:08 amThey bypassed the thermistor with a trace because they chose not to populate it, so both pads are joined.And I agree. 99.99% certain it's an inrush-limiting thermistor.

author: Jebnor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2013, 01:30:41 am
content: Quote from: dfmischler on July 26, 2013, 01:08:50 amThe circuit is not dissimilar from the typical application of theAP3101Quote from: c4757p on July 26, 2013, 01:15:53 amI think that is it. A bypassed Thermistor.
Component leads and current. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: davelectronic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2016, 02:58:09 am
content: Its always puzzled me how some component leads can carry the current the of that device. One that gets me are transistors, be it TO22 or TO3P TO3 etc. I read maximum ratings and see for a few Amps maybe low tens of Amps it looks up to the job.But when you talk of transistor collector currents above, say 15 Amps, and as much as 50 Amps i wander why the component leads are not thicker or heavier duty.Same on many other components. Just puzzled me. Two devices looking the same, one can handle 15 Amps, the other in the same package can handle 50 Amps. Yet the component leads are the same gauge for both. Same with other components in high current senarios.Your input cables are massive, your output cables are equally as heavy duty, but the gauge of your high current component leads look whimpy in comparison. Anyone know why manufacturers don't make there device leads more heavy duty ? The devices still work supplying the currents needed with out bother, but they seem flimsy in comparison to the wiring needed to carry these heavy currents..

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2016, 03:16:42 am
content: It is all about resistance. Component leads are very short, so their resistance is negligible in most cases.Furthermore, those leads go to super tiny bonding wires connecting them to the die.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2016, 03:52:45 am
content: Most components also spec the current capability at 25C case temperature, so to actually use them at that current rating you need active cooling, as most will be limited by thermal effects before they actually reach this current.The thing that also helps is the leads generally are very short, and are well connected via soldering to both a large surface of copper trace to dissipate heat, plus they are connected to a heatsink on the device side. I have seen some TO3 power transistors (BUX20, BDY25) which have very thick copper leads that are capable of handling high current. TO220 devices generally are only going to handle 10A on a continuous basis.

author: mash107
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2016, 04:07:55 am
content: IPC 2152 is a good reference for cross-section copper area vs current vs temperature rise of said copper pieceYou typically want to limit copper temp rise to less than 25degC, or even lower if you cannot afford either the heat rise or increase in resistance (http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/restmp.html)

author: davelectronic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 12, 2016, 12:02:04 pm
content: Thanks for thoughts replys, it must be lead length and modest tempreture levels i guess. It was just an observation really.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 13, 2016, 06:03:37 am
content: Higher current transistors in TO-3 type packages *do* use thicker leads.
Component leg or pad oxidation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: iceman01
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 06:18:07 pm
content: Hi,I have learned to solder as a kid then took a longer break and have started again a few years back. Now I am doing small projects with my son.Today I ran into something weird. When soldering a capacitor to a through hole pcb, one leg didn’t take on any tin, neither did the pad, when moving to the other pad and leg, this worked without any problems just as normal. Even after adding flux the first leg and the pad didn’t take on any solder. So I desoldered the other leg, removed the cap and used fluxed wick to clean up the leg and the pad/hole. Then I cleaned both with IPA, added additional flux and tried soldering again and it worked.The same happened for another of the same cap again and for one of the legs of a dip socket.My question is now, whether I am missing something or if it is likely that some pads and legs were contaminated and/or oxidised.After the first problem, I had wiped the pcb with IPA, but it seems it just wasn’t enough.I would love to hear your thoughts as I am pretty sure that I am missing something.Thank you a lot for your help!

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 06:45:02 pm
content: Too hot soldering temperature might also be a factor: the flux evaporates too fast.

author: iceman01
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 06:51:48 pm
content: Quote from: inse on January 17, 2025, 06:45:02 pmI am using lead free Stannol solder and am soldering at 320C, this has so far always worked for SMD and through hole. I had tried lower temps starting from 290 and 320 worked best, higher didn’t give me a tangible benefit.Do you strongly advise for going lower?

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 07:05:02 pm
content: No, that sounds low to reasonable.

author: iceman01
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 17, 2025, 07:43:57 pm
content: Woke up this morning and had a suspicion. All the pads that didn’t properly wet are ground pads. The pcb has a huge ground plane, so I guess I didn’t go hot enough/didn’t wait long enough for the pad and leg to heat up properly.
Component Manufacturers - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sdscotto
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2010, 04:45:34 am
content: Being new to precision components, and after watching Dave's latest (#133), I had some questions.Is there a consensus among those of you with years of experience, as to manufacturers who consistently make better components and/or better quality control? Is it always a crap shoot or are their good guys and bad guys amongst the major players?I looked at Mouser for SMD 0805 10 OHM .1% resistors and see that Bourns, Vishay and IRC all have the same specifications. Is one better than the other?Just curious and hoping to learn.scotto

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2010, 09:47:06 am
content: For general ~0805 stuff (resistors/caps) i just pic the one that's the best price and has a large quantity stockedI'm not saying that's a good thing to do, it's just what i doBut yeah, for precision components ya really do need to have a closer look. The quallity of the datasheet can give a reasonable idea as to the quallity of the component.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 16, 2010, 10:04:56 pm
content: As a quality inspector myself I can tell you that unfortunately errors do happen, it is impossible to check everything 100% so normally regular spot checks are carried out, unfortunately stuff can slip, the hope is the manufacturer will keep and extra eye on the parts in question and will try to establish what went wrong and prevent it from happening again.

author: saturation
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2010, 12:53:10 pm
content: Top manufacturers are still in business because they make quality and quantity. There are usually many who survive the market, as when one guy runs out of stock, the other isn't, and the game goes on and on.The most vital issue is buy from a reputable dealer and distributor, because via supply chain accounting, parts can be traced to the true manufacturer, versus not reputable sources which may provide counterfeit or sell reject parts as new. That's the difference when you pay a slight premium buying from Digikey over an unknown at say, eBay.The more precision or complex a part is, the more likely you want it reputable. Knobs, hookup wire, tape, and kit boxes? You can buy anywhere. Precision resistor networks and semiconductors, buy reputable.Junk parts are a different issue.Quote from: sdscotto on December 14, 2010, 04:45:34 am

author: Joy at MCS
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 17, 2010, 03:34:49 pm
content: There is a different difference in quality. It's a good idea to check the material that is used for making the components.Some companies will send out free samples for you to look at before you buy. It never hurts to ask.
Component placement on a simple power supply question. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Mint.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2011, 09:35:10 am
content: I was thinking about building a power supply recently, and not only do I want to be able to make it, but also to understand how it works. I understand pretty much everything except the component placement part. For example, why does this capacitor as shown in the drawing have to be places so that it touches both 6v and 0v? Why not have it like it is in the second drawing?

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2011, 09:46:08 am
content: Because you want the capacitor to charge up from the supply voltage, so you put it across the supply.You also want the capacitor to be like an alternative source of electricity for your load. So if the main source of electricity drops in voltage for a short time the capacitors electricity can be used for to make up the difference. So you want the capacitor and the supply in parallel.If you put it in series with the supply it will only charge up from current flowing through the load.And once it is fully charged no more current will flow. The load would, in effect, not be connected to the supply any more.A capacitor behaves like a short circuit when its empty and an open circuit when its charged up to the supply voltage.

author: Mint.
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2011, 09:50:05 am
content: I think I get it now. So it's basically connected to 0v so it have somewhere to discharge?

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2011, 09:59:49 am
content: The capacitor is acting like a buffer tank if you think in terms of a water flow analogy.In electrical terms you can think of it like a battery that is acting as a second source of power in parallel with the main supply.

author: M84AB1
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 15, 2011, 10:00:01 am
content: Look up Coupling and Decoupling Capacitors.In the first picture it is used as a decoupling capacitor, converting the 100Hz rectified AC voltage to a DC Voltage. If you were to use it as you drew it in second picture, it would be used as a coupling capacitor. In such configuration you would NOT obtain DC voltage but would merely couple the 100Hz signal across to the next stage.hope this helps.
Component placement problems - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cbillingsley64
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 02, 2021, 06:49:04 pm
content: I have a board with a DC-Dc converter, the converter changed, I deleted the old placed the new, all the nets are correct and rats nest is correct the part is also in class with a room. when I try to drag part onto board it stops, like it hit a wall.....I am a board designer from many years ago and with different software, I am the stuckie on learning Altium 17.1.thx

author: S. Petrukhin
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2021, 12:38:26 pm
content: Maybe some polygons are set that have a different net and are forbidden from short-circuiting them when dragging?

author: ocset
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2021, 09:13:46 pm
content: I would take a look in the design rules.Or delete the board and put it back in there.

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2021, 07:52:51 pm
content: I’d suggest you ask a moderator to move this thread to the Altium subforum, since this is a) an Altium-specific question, and b) this is the beginners subforum, and Altium is categorically not a beginner-level tool, so most visitors to this subforum will have no experience with Altium.

author: BitsnBytes
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2021, 08:19:39 pm
content: Shelve all the polygons and then try again.
Component Purpose from schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jeffjmr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2022, 03:14:43 am
content: Wondering if some of you with more experience and electronic education than I might take a look at this schematic and tell me what the function of the circled 10k variable resistor is.This is a plate amplifier for a speaker that has a built-in subwoofer (B&W 605 S2).I’m guessing it has something to do with standby power on sensitivity; in auto the amp powers up when it senses a signal. But I’d love to know as I have repaired a few of these and bench checked a total of six of them and no two have that VR anywhere near the same setting.Thanks,Jeff

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2022, 06:04:31 am
content: Cannot read, too small.

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2022, 09:14:58 am
content: I think it is a part of a compression circuit to prevent clipping/distortion. The turn on circuit appears to be top center. It goes to mute and standby inputs of the amps.

author: KT88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2022, 10:05:29 am
content: agree, it looks like some sort of AGC. The pot sets the gain of the AGC...

author: jeffjmr
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2022, 05:59:04 pm
content: That makes sense. Thanks for your responses.Jeff
Component selection for MC34063-based AA battery mobile charger - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: GiantGnome
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2014, 05:55:26 pm
content: Hi allI am trying to build a MintyBoost-like device from the parts in my junk bin. I have some MC34063's and some schottkys and I hope to scrounge the rest - I probably need to buy the inductor from my local electronics shop.The charger for my current phone says 5V / 400mA on it, but to keep the switching current below 1.5A, I have opted to accept 375mAI have usedhttp://dics.voicecontrol.ro/tutorials/mc34063/to calculate some values - I need about a 10uH inductor, 0.2 ohm sense resistor and a schottky diode (and some other parts)But what does the power/current rating of the components need to be?For the sense resistor, is it fine to say 0.2 ohm * 1.5A^2 = 0,45W? I was thinking of paralleling up five 1 ohm resistors.The inductor needs to be able to handle peak current, so I was thinking 2 or more ampsThe schottkys I have (SS14) says Maximum Average Forward Current: 1.0 A - this is less than 1.5A, but the 1.5A is peak, not average? As the diode is after the switcher, wouldn't the maximum average be 375mA? Can I use the SS14 diode, or will I need to buy one with a larger current rating?

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2014, 06:17:23 pm
content: I would seriously recommend ditching the MC34063 and going with a more modern boost regulator.MC34063 needs at least 3v to operate in the first place and the efficiency is LOUSY. You'll get maybe 60-65% efficiency, which is bad.If you still insist on doing a mc34063 boost regulator, there's a more advanced calculator (software) here:http://sourceforge.net/projects/mc34063uc/which should tell you those peak currents and more details about parts you should get.

author: GiantGnome
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2014, 07:32:11 pm
content: I will have to insist, as it is the only regulator I have. Next year, I will probably look in to making something more efficient (or just buying a mintyboost), but I think it is a good exercise (when doing one-off projects) to use what you have and not have.The advanced calculator looks very interesting - but only runs on Windows, which I sadly do not have access to. I will have to look at it at work (in the lunch break, of course).

author: Mr Smiley
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 17, 2014, 07:54:41 pm
content: If you've got it ,,, use ithttp://dics.voicecontrol.ro/tutorials/mc34063/I've got a bag full and can see no reason at all to bin them for an extra 5% efficiencyand an extra 3-4 dollars in cost.Most switchers are only highly efficient under strict working conditions, go outside those and your 34063 is just as good.
Component spacing for easy rework and assembly - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2012, 09:44:10 am
content: Recently i have been working on a version of the usupply that has an isolated output and a 4 wire kelvin corrected output, and have been running into a small issue on how far components can be spaced while still being easy enough for average Joe to solder without issuewhat i have so far is:1210 size inductors 2mm tall,0805 size resistors and capacitors, standard heightand a few ssop/ soic packages, so far routed for ssop but likely will try for soicthe spacing i have so far achieved is:3mm pad to pad on all 0805 components,4mm perpendicular to pins on ssop's and 3mm in line,3.5mm perpendicular to 1210 pads and 8mm in line,these are the clearances from the edge of the pad to the nearest objectand while i am at it, what spacing is recommended between test point groups of different voltages, the 4 at the lower left have around 1V and a short between these shall not harm the circuit while the next one across has 30V+ shall, the earth will be spaced similarly to the higher voltage one,so far the low voltage are 1.5mm apart, with the 30V+ one separated by 3mmFor reference here is a segment of my circuit that i am most concerned about,

author: JuKu
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2012, 12:21:30 pm
content: Looks good. In rework the problematic components are the tall ones (such as electrolytics, connectors, relays and such). Even with those, you are usually ok unless you have few of those close to each other and a small SMD in between.
Component Suggestions needed for SEPIC controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: DarrellD
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 09, 2018, 10:19:00 pm
content: Been searching Digikey, Mouser, TI, STmicro, and Youtube for information on controller selection, but coming up more and more confused. I'm trying to find a controller for a power circuit with the smallest possible footprint (SOT-23-8). I have working components in hand, but can not find the components on the web...Vin = 3.4-25.2Vout = 5Imax = 2-3AFrom the research I have done I am led to believe that a SEPIC or Buck-Boost controller would be needed. If anyone has a better solution, please teach me or point me in a direction I can gain better info?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 10, 2018, 02:12:20 am
content: Any boost/flyback controller that operates over that range will do. SEPIC is the same dynamics as buck-boost, specifically.If you need a reasonably solid output current limit, you may want to add a secondary current sense / error amp and feed it back to the first error amp. Since, the built in current limit (which is typically peak current mode, plus slope compensation so it's kind of sloppy to begin with) has to be set for the minimum input voltage (maximum input current), it can deliver a shitton more output current at full input voltage.Just last week I did one with TPS40210, 8-40V input and 12V output. The startup voltage on this one isn't quite low enough so you'll have to keep shopping around.If you want the controller, with switch, and any other extras, to be near the footprint of a SOT-23, you're going to need CSPs, full stop.Tim

author: DarrellD
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 10, 2018, 11:13:51 pm
content: Thanks for the info, Tim!After some thinking, and a little more reading I came to realize that the current of the controller does not matter to much as it is only for the Mosfet. The current limitation of the circuit is derived from the Fet and Inductor/s.. correct me if I'm wrong, but I think something like a LM3488 would suffice just fine?

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2018, 12:51:28 am
content: Yes, that looks good.Tim
Component that can switch connections - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 10:14:24 pm
content: Is there such a component (and if so what is its name) that works like the old style telephone switching system where you had an operator that would jumper two connections together.In component form I was thinking about something, maybe like a 40 pin dip, that has power, ground, some kind of input signal and clock, that would allow you to send it commands to switch pins to connect to each other.Any ideas on this?

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 10:18:37 pm
content: So acrossbar switch? Plenty of them available...

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 21, 2015, 11:39:37 pm
content: Quote from: Tac Eht Xilef on September 21, 2015, 10:18:37 pmAnd Felix wins with his bag of tricks! Thanks!
Component tutorial - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ChrisGreece52
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2013, 02:19:52 pm
content: I am making this subject so everyone can ask about one component and get their answers.For example i had this question for a very long time " What is an inductor " till we learned about "pinia" in Greece that is basically a coil which creates a magnetic field and stores energy inside in form of magnetic energy.If we feed a voltage into it the graph will be like thisI(A)| /| /| /| /|/|____________________ t(s)Sorry for the bad graph ... i could not eplain it because my english language skills in the subject are quite badWhat i wanted to say is that the I does not reach the max value "instantly" but in a period of time.And i learned how the saw like wave form is being made : by closing the switch the I ----> increases and before the val of I = Imax is reached we open the switch and the I----> decreases and we get something like a saw blade wave formSo i made a little reasearch about this coil and i found out that the Inductor IS the coil what i have been talking and thinking about this whole time....And that the H on the side of the components does NOT stands for Hertz like i thought but for Henry ...And sorry for the bad explanation or the long story but i am very excited about learning that!!!!

author: ChrisGreece52
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2013, 02:22:58 pm
content: The wave form i am talking about is the sawtooth wave form ( i searched it up) and heres and image.
Component Unknown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Petermo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 10, 2024, 01:02:41 pm
content: Hello friends, I ask for your help to find out which component this is: SOT23-6 with reference "GbHAD". This component belongs to a board from a WiFi surveillance camera that is burned out and I removed it from the board, it seems to me that it is responsible for controlling the 5v motors of the lenses. The machine is powered by 12VDC, I've done a lot of research on the internet and never found the component, as I usually see in Reviews on this channel, I made a point of asking the question here. Thank you very muchAttachment: Photo showing component location with a red square

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 11, 2024, 02:58:07 am
content: Are you sure it's alowercaseb? Because GB*** (with uppercase B) is RY8310.SY8876DFC is Gb*** (lowercase b) but in the wrong package. I suspect manufacturer may be Silergy.

author: Petermo
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 11, 2024, 08:53:15 am
content: Thank youamyk, yes that is what is written on the component, but the RY8310 makes more sense than the SY8876, because in the SY8876 the Vin voltages are limited between 2.7V and 6.5V when the Vin is 12V.

author: Harry_22
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2024, 11:57:53 am
content: Hi!May be this is AP5724WUG-7 white led driver. There should be an inductor nearby.Unfortunately the photo is very bad.
Component which bleeds excess voltage to ground? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Plasmateur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 05:44:25 am
content: Hello,I'm trying to build a circuit with an opamp which needs protection from a voltage (27.12MHz) getting too high.Can I just use a transistor tying both the line in to both the Vcc and Vin, and in the event the Vin threshold is met, the signal will simply go to ground and protect my op amp? Or is there a more elegant solution or component I can use?

author: BrianHG
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 06:06:17 am
content: Use a zener diode. Remember to choose the right wattage depending on how much excess current you expect when you exceede the maximum voltage.

author: Plasmateur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2017, 08:17:30 pm
content: Thank you for your response.The signal I am attempt to capture is also RF. Is there a Zenor diode configuration which will allow both positive and negative voltages to pass, while clipping a set amplitude positive or negative?EDIT:I think I found what I'm looking for here:http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode-clipping-circuits.htmlThank you so much again!
Components free to a good home - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Sengcid
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 08, 2024, 04:12:13 pm
content: Intended for a newbie analog experimenter – start or top-up your stock of resistors, capacitors, opamps, transistors, comparators, 555 timers etc. Also included: prototyping materials, components, metal and plastic boxes and a good quality soldering iron - a veritable cornucopia. Pls PM if interested. I will inform you of the postage cost (GB mainland only) before dispatch.
Components References (Values) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: yalect
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2021, 10:08:17 am
content: Hi,I would like to ask you that I want to buy some semiconductors components.what best kind or type ofOp Ampby looking to its features likebandwidth frequencyandvoltagedo you think and in other hand its price like :LM741 ,……………..andtransistors : NPN PNP FETBf199, 2n2222………………………………….Thank to hear from you much values.Thank you

author: trp806mo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2021, 10:35:11 am
content: Check the series of DAveFor example : EEVBlog 1436 - The TOP 5 Jellybean OPAMP'sI used to buy from Alli kits already done in order to have some legacy references try this kind of Keywords "50Pcs/box 10 Values Mosfet Transistor Kit IRF3205 IRF640 IRF740 IRF830 IRF840 IRF530 IRF630 IRF820 IRFZ44 IRF9540 IRF820"But ypu have to chose what you want (high voltage, BJT, MOSFET, ...)

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2021, 08:18:46 pm
content: Small signal transistors: 2N2222A, 2N3904, 2N3906Small signal diodes: 1N914, 1N4148Power diodes: 1N4001-1N4007 - check datasheet for voltage/current ratingsOp Amps: Watch Dave's video, referenced above, LM358

author: yalect
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2021, 08:39:02 pm
content: Maybe there are other references or values list ofOp ampandtransistors(FETs, BJT, ....) I based more on frequency range and medium voltage or more.Thank you

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2021, 08:55:28 pm
content: Some manufacturers have parametric search capabilities:https://www.analog.com/en/parametricsearch/11085#/Some suppliers also have parametric search:https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/linear-amplifiers-instrumentation-op-amps-buffer-amps/687https://www.digikey.com/en/products/result?s=N4IgTCBcDaIC4CcCGA7AzgSzXA9gtIAugL5A
Components - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: daniel123
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2016, 10:21:33 pm
content: Hello I was wondering if anyone has old electronic components that I could have. Also I was wondering if anyone has an old soldering station that I could also have. I am also looking for a very in depth tutorial on how you put schematics into breadboards or schematic to breadboard for short. I think I would greatly benefit from these extra parts. If you can help me feel free to reply to this thread or reach me at danielvrolijk55@gmail.com.Sincerely,Daniel Vrolijk

author: danadak
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2016, 10:48:43 pm
content: Just a thought but why not tell the forum a little about yourself andbackground.Regards, Dana.

author: daniel123
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2016, 10:52:17 pm
content: ok danabak so I am 15 and i am a freshman in highschool. I am trying to learn how to do electronics as a major hobby. All of my life I had some intrest in electronics I also like pipe organs and I will soon start racing go karts at our local track. Currently im looking for someone who is willing to skype and or facetime to teach me about schematics. I have some compnents but not many and I know how to solder through hole only. I have also had intrest sin computers

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2016, 01:04:03 am
content: Rough idea of city and state would help out for picking up a kit of rando parts and an old soldering iron or two. Free stuff isn't that much of a problem, but asking someone to box it up and mail it off is a high hurdle for some.

author: daniel123
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2016, 01:07:31 am
content: Houston texas its near its in texas

author: daniel123
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2016, 01:09:23 am
content: Here ill pay for shipping

author: mikeys
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2016, 08:52:27 am
content: If you're a broke kid then you should check out maker/hackerspaces & see if they have some kind of youth program. Here's one I found with a quick googling. No idea if it's close to you thoughhttps://www.txrxlabs.org/They should have a decent selection of gear that you can use as long as you follow the rules.Obviously ask your parents for permission and go along with them to a tour or open day, whatever they're offering.
Composite Sync is 1v ptp. Need just a bit more... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: CkRtech
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2014, 12:28:16 am
content: Hey all,I have taken analog video output from an old MSX2+ computer and made an RGB cable. The image looks good when hooked up to my test display, however it does not agree with my VGA switch. This switch is quite moody (I can't feed it composite video for sync. It has to have composite sync), and apparently the 1 volt peak to peak the MSX2+ is outputting for the sync signal just isn't enough. Compare that to a Super Nintendo's raw composite sync output which outputs around 2.5v ptp (at least when I measured it), and the switch takes this just fine.Any ideas how I might add a bit of kick to that signal and get my VGA switch to see it? Ideally, I would like to fit any additional components inside the 8 pin DIN connector at the end of my cable <wince>.Thanks!

author: Paul Price
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 26, 2014, 09:34:43 am
content: A simple non-inverting BJT transistor common-emitter amplifier with a gain control will give you the signal boost you need.
Comprehensive Voltmeter Article - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: SgtRock
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 27, 2011, 02:00:41 am
content: Greetings EEVBees:--For those of you who have been bitten by the Multimeter Bug, here is some ameliorative relief. It will not stop the itching, but it will scratch it a bit. About half way down on the indicated web page you will find a reprint of an article by Dean Huster, Electronics Curmudgeon andContributing editor emeritus of the "Q&A" column in Poptronics magazine, R.I.P. (the magazine not Dean)."http://www.vintage-radio.info/download/download.php?dir=heathkit&file=it-28.gif"--You can search the site for many other examples of Dean holding forth on all topics electronic. All very readable and informative. This guy has been there and seen the elephant. Clear Either

author: Manorainjan
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 06, 2015, 10:16:38 pm
content: The site has changed the way it works.Please update Your link.