hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Need help to ID this device - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: niemand
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2020, 01:12:45 am
content: This is the controller module from my Jenn-Air JGS8850ADW range/oven. I took it out to replace capacitors hoping to fix F1-1 and F3-1 fault codes. What is this device that is marked "A1" on the printed circuit board? The printing on the back side reads "47/02".Thanks.

author: WattsThat
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2020, 01:37:26 am
content: It is a piezo disc, aka the source of the beeps and other sounds.

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2020, 01:38:11 am
content: looks like piezo sounder,but could be miles off

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2020, 01:38:17 am
content: That is a piezoelectric transducer. It goes 'beep'. I'd leave it be (unless it annoys you).

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 14, 2020, 01:09:11 pm
content: Definitely a piezo buzzer
Need help to identify a component  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: TheJustin1809
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 03, 2024, 11:01:16 pm
content: Aux / Lock switch pcb of an iPod classic 5gen. I would like to rebuild the pcb and add Bluetooth to it. For that I need to identify the original parts on the pcb. The chip in the picture has 6 pins, 5 of them are connected. F6 is written on it. Perhaps someone can tell me what kind of chip the picture shows. Thanks in advance.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2024, 03:19:58 am
content: Can you provide some context with a full photo of the PCB?

author: TheJustin1809
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 04, 2024, 09:56:48 am
content: Sure. Here are some more pictures:First picture shows the back side of the Aux connector with the unknown chip. The second pic shows the entire assembly (Aux connector and lock switch). The last picture shows the front side of the aux assembly with the buzzer.

author: daisizhou
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2024, 10:18:53 am
content: Quote from: TheJustin1809 on August 03, 2024, 11:01:16 pmIt looks like it might be an insurance policy, providing protection.Have you measured the resistance between the pins?

author: TheJustin1809
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 04, 2024, 05:55:24 pm
content: Yeah I measured between the pins but got nothing relevant. I found the chip several times on the mainboard. Here is a picture. Any ideas what DZP mean?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2024, 07:56:58 pm
content: Quote from: TheJustin1809 on August 04, 2024, 05:55:24 pmWe should be looking for U5, not F6, I think.The following observation does seem to support the idea that it is a protection component:https://laserpointerforums.com/threads/have-an-ipod-1-5-5g-and-gathering-dust-check-out-the-imod-diy-hd-audio-player.77521/Quote

author: TheJustin1809
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 04, 2024, 08:07:58 pm
content: Thanks for the help. I found this:https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/626582/what-is-this-component-labelled-dzpIt stands for diode zener protection.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2024, 08:56:39 pm
content: The OP in that thread refers to a TDF6 marking. If that is "TD + F6", then "F6" is what we should be looking for.
Need help to identify IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2022, 09:19:43 pm
content: Could someone please identify the 6-pin ICs marked "ADC" in the following SSD photos?https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/qTa1dPrMy4Uxylrw.hugehttps://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/JyRluPyXtkRnZUvo.hugeI'm 99% certain that they are manufactured by Monolithic Power. I expect that they are high-side load switches or "current limit switches" of some kind. The operating voltage of the SSD would be 3.3V.

author: Ugur
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2022, 05:48:06 am
content: Hello,I'm not sure but it could be!XC6219/6211

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2022, 06:59:07 am
content: Thanks. I don't think Torex is the manufacturer. In any case the part markings on those Torex ICs are vertical rather than horizontal.I'm now wondering whether those ICs are PSU supervisors (eg MP6400), but it doesn't make sense to me that there would be two of the same.

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2022, 10:24:23 am
content: It looks like a LDO made by Microchip.Quote from: fzabkar on August 19, 2022, 06:59:07 amI think maybe you are right, they are both MP6400DG-09.Although the two voltage supervisory chips are the same model, their threshold voltage can be changed by connecting a external resistor in series with the sense pin.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 02:50:49 am
content: I'm trying to help someone in another forum, but I've had no response to my request for measurements.This is what I can make out in the absence of feedback:https://00289684175589411622.googlegroups.com/attach/33066615b704d/regs.jpg?part=0.1&view=1

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 06:22:20 am
content: I think the one (in chip scale package) you marked as 'load switch?' is right:https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps22920.pdfI hate this kind of top marking style, feel like they did this on purpose to let you couldn't find the model number!

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 06:58:54 am
content: Quote from: gamalot on August 20, 2022, 06:22:20 amThanks. I had the same idea here:https://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?p=270055#p270055

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 07:53:49 am
content: The TPS72715DSE guess must be wrong because the size does not match.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2022, 08:48:37 am
content: Could "GS" be a P-channel MOSFET, something like these ...https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/DMP2039UFDE4.pdfhttps://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/916/PMPB20XPE-1627944.pdf
Need help to identify SMD SOT23 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Mark Krass
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2025, 11:07:27 am
content: Hello guys,Need your help to identify SMD in SOT23 case. Markings are "SK", then "S" above a small triangle and then "35".I tried google and all SMD search online databases. It is definitely neither a transistor nor a diodes. On a PCB these 2 components are connected in opposite directions pin3-to-pin3 as I shown on the pic attached.One of the versions was a Voltage detector IC but in a connection I mentioned above it does not make any sense.Any thoughts?

author: Mark Krass
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 26, 2025, 12:34:26 pm
content: It's still BSS138, topic closed.
Need help to identify SSD ICs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2022, 09:40:39 pm
content: Here is a review of a HP S700 SSD based on an H6008 controller (remarked Silicon Motion SM2258XT):https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/hp-s700-ssd-dramless,5118.htmlHere are the hi-res photos of the PCB:https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/BHs5XhVPvF47Gc4uiuu82Z.jpghttps://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/6hFHxCLddWDALjEDfbRhwc.jpghttps://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/Q5Y9FJaro8NuG8kZrx7jLo.jpghttps://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/GWfC2NkpXKpLocycH2b4BC.jpgU5 appears to be a 1.8V LDO regulator.RT9193-18GB, Richtek, 1.8V, 300mA, Ultra-Low Noise, Ultra-Fast CMOS LDO Regulator, marking DC=, SOT-23-5:https://www.richtek.com/assets/product_file/RT9193/DS9193-18.pdf"ANCD" would be a MOSFET or BJT."ZY6UA" appears to be a dual switchmode stepdown DC-DC converter. Other PCBs have a "ZY7xx" chip in the same place, so it would appear that the part code is "ZY", and the next 3 characters are Year/Week/Something.The "29" chip appears to be a single switchmode stepdown DC-DC converter. Other PCBs differ in the second and third groups of characters, so "29" must be the part code.Here is a different PCB with the same ICs:

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2022, 06:05:44 am
content: Found one of them.SY8029, Silergy, 2MHz, Dual 2A, Synchronous Step Down Regulator, 2.5V - 5.5Vin, marking ZYxyz, TSOT23-8https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/1808280451_Silergy-Corp-SY8029AIC_C207636.pdf

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2022, 07:58:45 am
content: ANxx could be AO3420:http://www.aosmd.com/res/data_sheets/ao3420.pdf

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2022, 08:10:29 am
content: DC=xxx should RT9193-18:https://www.richtek.com/assets/product_file/RT9193/DS9193-18.pdf

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2022, 08:14:53 am
content: 29 sould be RT8065:https://www.richtek.com/assets/product_file/RT8065/DS8065-08.pdf

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2022, 05:06:18 pm
content: Thanks @gamalot!

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2022, 05:41:55 pm
content: Techpowerup has a database of SSDs, useful to figure out what memory chips a SSD has:https://www.techpowerup.com/ssd-specs/hp-s700-500-gb.d422

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 28, 2022, 05:53:43 pm
content: Quote from: mariush on December 28, 2022, 05:41:55 pmThanks.I use this online flash decoder:https://nand.gq/#/decodeFor Micron's parts I use ...https://www.micron.com/support/tools-and-utilities/fbga
Need help to identifying SMD component 1003 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: vamax
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 22, 2022, 04:40:09 pm
content: Hi folks,I have SMD component marked as 1003 in SOT23-5 package.I`m defiantly sure that is some type of OPAMP, as the component connection sows me, but I can`t find exact match datasheet!Thanks beforehand!

author: abdulbadii
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2022, 02:14:29 am
content: imhohttps://www.digikey.com/htmldatasheets/production/1611786/0/0/1/ts1003-datasheet.html

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2022, 09:54:59 pm
content: TS1003 has a different marking code, but its specs are everything I would want in an op amp. :-)

author: gamalot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2022, 10:09:10 pm
content: It's CLC1003IST5X:https://au.mouser.com/datasheet/2/146/exar_s_a0001240984_1-2267463.pdf
Need help to remove biro marks on meter jacket - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: enut11
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2022, 11:53:30 pm
content: I have a soft yellow  meter jacket that has been written on with a biro pen. Cleaning tips on the Forum have not worked.I have tried the following solvents to remove it:isopropyl alcoholmethylated spiritstea tree oilorange oilnail polish remover (non acetone)fine sand paper!EDITturpentinepetrolMagic sponge +water/+IPAAny other suggestions?

author: themadhippy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2022, 12:29:40 am
content: petrol ?

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2022, 12:53:18 am
content: A holster or one of those holsterless soft case like a Fluke 189 or 289?I had one that had been sharpied to death and it had soaked in. A lot. I ended up sanding it a lot with a Fein Multimaster (woodworking tool) going from 80 to 120 to 220 grits, then wiping it with acetone. My case is thinner now, but mostly ink-free. It's like tattoo removal--no fun and the result may not be perfect. I would start experimenting with acetone.

author: enut11
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2022, 01:31:17 am
content: Fluke, yes. model 54 thermometer.Tried 80 grit sandpaper but no luck.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2022, 08:24:26 am
content: Sometimes the pen color goes deep into the plastics and there is essentially no way to remove it. If 80 grid sandpaper did not work you are pretty much out of luck.

author: bdunham7
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2022, 01:33:45 pm
content: Quote from: enut11 on April 08, 2022, 01:31:17 amI used 80 grit with the aforementioned power tool and it took me several hours. I had a pretty serious pile of case grindings before I was done.

author: Gregg
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2022, 06:31:41 pm
content: Maybe paint it with Plasti Dip. You could even change the color; maybe EEVblog Blue!

author: mazurov
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2022, 06:45:38 pm
content: Try toluene - it is a solvent used in permanent marker ink. It may also attack the plastic (and your liver), so be careful.

author: Cerebus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2022, 06:48:58 pm
content: Isopropanol on one of those 'magic eraser' melamine sponges. I've had great success with this method for removing all sorts of pen marks from various plastic surfaces on test equipment.

author: mendip_discovery
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2022, 10:07:50 am
content: I have the trade version of this at work and it does a very good job on pen ink, and glue residue etc. Its not horrible stuff to use, smells like citrus juice.De.Solv.it® Sticky Stuff® Remover LiquidIt can be found on your online retailer of choice.
Need help to repair Fluke 867B - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: eric.niu
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 10, 2019, 08:35:25 pm
content: guys, I need some help to repair my Fluke 867B, it suddenly stopped working on OHMS/DT/CT test, you can see from the picture, on OHMS it shows numbers with nothing plugin, also shows 2.5V on DT, 0.0567uf on CT. Short test leads on OHMS get some unstable readings. Clean knob doesn't change anything. DCV and ACV seem ok but I didn't fully test all the ranges.Any advice?

author: Diesel11
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 12, 2022, 11:17:46 pm
content: Same exact problem what was the fix? How?

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 12, 2022, 11:22:22 pm
content: Usually a good starting point is to check PCB for battery leakage and clean the rotary switch contacts.After that either you get hold of the schematic and start thinking or reflow the ASIC under the shield...

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2022, 10:22:43 am
content: I can help you too, how much are you willing to spend?

author: Spectrum
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 13, 2022, 12:49:34 pm
content: Quote from: shakalnokturn on May 12, 2022, 11:22:22 pmalso soldering around this switch
Need help troubleshooting a distiller electronics fault - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: JCINAZ
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 17, 2019, 08:07:29 pm
content: I am a beginner in electronics. I know a few basics. I have a multimeter that I set to 200 Vac for testing.I have a distiller I have been using for 10+ years now and recently it stopped working. I am trying to determine where the fault is so I can replace the part. The company that made the distiller went out of business years ago, so I can't call them for support.What isn't working is:Heating element isn't starting.Fan isn't spinning.The boiler tank floater switch is working as water flows in when it drops.There is a floater in the holding tank that appears to be working as, when I move it the relay clicks on/off.I believe the issue is either with one of the switches, Mainpower/Fan/Water or the relay?Here is what I confirmed:- It's getting power from wall, as lights are on and certain components work.- Upper Switch Heater Control is getting 120v- Lower Switch Water Control is getting 120v- When I test power on the reset switch, between 2 & 1 or 4 & 3 I get 0 volts. Which I am assuming I should get 120v on each? So an upstream fault?I am looking for guidance on what components to test and how. Any help would be appreciated.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2019, 04:28:17 am
content: Use mains Neutral as your 0V reference for your DMM.Pins B & C of the main power switch should both be 120VAC.Pins 1 & 2 of the reset switch should both be 120VAC.Pins C & NC of the Upper Switch Heater Control should both be 120VAC.Pins B & C of the fan switch should both be 120VAC.The voltage between pins A & B of the heater should be 120VAC.The voltage between pins 23 & 24 of the fan should be 120VAC.

author: JCINAZ
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 18, 2019, 09:19:45 pm
content: Thank you for the help. Turns out when I went back to start troubleshooting it, it started working again. I am sure it will stop working sometime soon.Regarding this statement:Use mains Neutral as your 0V reference for your DMM.I believe what you mean by this statement is to take one probe and attach it to the neutral line when testing the different components. The only question I have is on the diagram which label would be "Neutral"?

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2019, 09:51:03 pm
content: Neutral is the white wire in the power cord. Black is active.
Need help troubleshooting Power Supply or Logic Board issue on 2017 iMac 21.5 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Zataralos
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 18, 2020, 05:14:34 am
content: Hoping to get some guidance as I can't find any schematics for my iMac. I recently changed the EFI chip on a 2017 21.5 4K iMac and now it won't boot. LED1 comes on and LED2 flashes every 5 seconds but power button does nothing. I checked voltage at the power button and getting 3.28v. Trying to figure out if it's the PS or the logic board. I took a few readings while it was plugged in (see attached photos). What else can I check before starting to replace parts. In case you're wondering, yes I know how to micro-solder and installed the EFI correctlyAny help, especially on what voltages I should be seeing in the power connectors would be great.Thanks

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2020, 06:55:41 am
content: Have you looked here?https://boards.rossmanngroup.com/forums/macbook-logic-board-repair-questions.15/
Need help trying to repair circuit board on a car - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Noobetronics
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2023, 12:15:20 am
content: Hi, super new to this so apologize for the basic questions, but I am trying to repair a rare circuit board pictured bellow and have a few basic questions:1- where can I find the transistor that says C2334 L14S ? I've found ones that say C2334 but than the second set of numbers are different, would that matter?2- What is the part that is in round in the middle with the markings 2 6 1 I ? Is that a transformer? and where I can find that one?3- Also as you can see in the second photo the traces are somewhat damaged and bare copper is showing and I'm having trouble soldering onto the bare copper and the solder does not seem to want to stick to it (I am using flux), is there a way to solder to the bare copper trace?all help is much appreciated,cheers

author: Noobetronics
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2023, 12:16:36 am
content: oops here is the second image

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2023, 12:42:00 am
content: It's a 2SC2334 NPN power transistor. The second line is a date/batch code.https://www.renesas.com/br/en/document/dst/2sc2334-data-sheet-d14902ej2v1ds00T1 is a transformer, probably custom wound.You need to scrub the oxide off all the copper traces.It looks like the board is an inverter which produces an AC output, possibly to supply a VF display.

author: Noobetronics
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 16, 2023, 01:00:18 am
content: Hello, thanks for the reply. Yes this board is for the fuel level and coolant temperature display. As for the transformer I assume it if its bad, no replacement would be available since its custom wound?thank you.

author: Jeff eelcr
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2023, 01:21:26 am
content: Clean and repair PCB.Resolder cold/ poor solder connections.Replace parts that caused problems. Leaking electrolitic capacitors.Test other parts to check, not guess if good/bad.Jeff

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2023, 01:26:35 am
content: That PC board has a bunch of bad solder joints, fractured. It's terrible. I would resolder a lot of the board.Next is to repair the missing traces that water damage corroded away, and clean up the residue. A Q-tip and IPA work well to clean it, I think it has HV for a VFD or something, I see a "-8V" pad as well. Test all the 3 transistors.I wouldn't blame the transformer or the power transistor 2SC2334 unless it has shorted. Replacement would beKSC2334

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 16, 2023, 05:24:15 am
content: You might have to clean corroded tracks and pads with a glass fiber pen before you will be able to solder.I heard that those rough erasers also work.
Need help where to find free schematic diagram for Yamaha Electone B-205F - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Jazzintime
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 05, 2021, 08:17:38 am
content: Good Day everyone,May I please ask your help of where to find a schematic diagram for Yamaha Electone B-205F, Thanks a lot for your help....

author: samnmax
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2021, 10:17:57 am
content: Have you checked here?https://elektrotanya.com/showresult?what=electone&kategoria=All&kat2=AllSadly, they don't have the B-205F, but maybe some other models are similar.

author: Jazzintime
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 05, 2021, 10:35:02 am
content: Thanks for your reply, I will check it now....

author: KevinA
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2021, 10:23:28 pm
content: Befriend a local Yamaha service technician, or a Yamaha main dealer who carry out their own service.Either will have access to the Yamaha JP service portal, and they can download the service manual.Sadly, I no longer have a password, I am retired.

author: Jazzintime
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 11, 2021, 06:25:43 pm
content: Still Need Help....
Need help with 2100 IC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: rafatreyad
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 20, 2024, 09:57:55 pm
content: HelloI have a problem withIntegrated Circuit 2100..I hope you can help me know what kind of integrated circuit this is, what it does, and where I can find an equivalent replacement for it please?Thank you very much for the helpAttached is a picture of the IC

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2024, 10:30:33 pm
content: SIP2100DY, Vishay/Siliconix, 5V, 1A H-Bridge Motor Driver, SOIC-8:https://www.vishay.com/docs/63949/sip2100.pdfhttps://jlcpcb.com/partdetail/VishayIntertech-SIP2100DY_T1GE3/C142541(photo)

author: rafatreyad
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 21, 2024, 01:28:31 pm
content: Thank you very much.. Iappreciatedyour help..
Need help with 65" curved scree Kogan repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: phred01
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2022, 09:08:41 am
content: On turn on No pix but sound Turned off with remote then on again now no sound Tried reset procedure no joy there either All that happens the red light can be turned on & off. The set is barely 3yrs old....no spares or firmware are available .....zero support. Business model get the customer to buy a new one! These TVs are generic and are sold by a number lower cost end sellers. Diagnosed the problem to the main logic board and have found a 65" board on fleabay made for Thorn. Apparently it's load with smart TV software which included WiFi module The only missing thing are two cables control & power lead Has anyone got a photo of the cables. However, JVC 55" curved screen model LT55N776A has the same arrangement.

author: phred01
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 16, 2022, 07:40:25 am
content: Lady luck was smiling on me on fleabay Bought for 40$ Main board with WiFi module with cables that I was looking for. Will post cable details soon. As a bonus got the power supply and the TCON boards with cables thrown in.....What an excellent buy
Need help with a faulty laser printer power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Uncharted73
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 22, 2021, 07:03:42 am
content: Gday all,First time poster, long time EEV watcher.So i have an issue with my laser printer where it wont turn on. Well it does but randomly for a few seconds then shuts off.I have taken out the power supply which is the issue.I have noticed that there is a noisy/scratchy/screechy sort of transformer.I have tried to trace the circuit back to work it out, but its a bit to complicated for me.Pics attached.20210722_1636371.jpg(892.88 kB. 2394x1168 - viewed 84 times.)From what I have measured, if you have a look at the pics, i have written 1 and 2 on the transformer pins.When lying dormant:1 is four pins of which, the top two measure 0V and the bottom two measure 0V, but across the two banks, measure 360VDC2 is completely dead with nothing across any of the threeWhen it is making the screeching noise:1 measures around 50V i think, its pretty hard to measure so fast.And 2 measures around 50V also, but it goes quickly so i cant get a good reading.I have de soldered the coil and cant see any open circuit windings, so not sure where to go from here.What i was thinking, was if someone knew how to read the code of the transformer, and i could order a new one of flebay or somewhere to try that?I have tried searching heaps online with the codes written on it, to no avail.Any help or nudges in the right direction would be appreciated.CheersEdit:I should explain a few more things.There is no output when there is no transformer noise.The dark patches on the board are where two old resistors burnt out. Not sure why, but i replaced them for with ones of the same power and resistance.At the bridge rectifier, there is always around 360VDC, no matter what the rest of the circuit is doing.The power supply is a Amperor branded 20B1050And the printer is a lexmark C782
Need help with a projector: flat ferrite substitute for LCD module cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Koray
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2024, 08:57:23 pm
content: Hi all!I am refurbishing a projector (EPSON TW5300). There are tell-tale signs that it was previously repaired.When I put it back together it works but the image has some random interference artefacts. I reseated the LCD ribbon cables, it worked once, but when I had to disassemble and reassemble the interference came back. It happens at different color channels in different shapes and I think it has something to do with the LCD ribbon cables.When I looked at other people's TW5300 repair videos, I noticed that mine had no ferrite pieces around the LCD ribbon cables while others had thin flat ferrite bands. I assume at a previous repair mine were lost.I don't think I can find anything that can fit there like the original, but I have an idea. Can I substitute a shielding metallic tape for a ferrite? I can encapsulate the shielding tape in capton tape and wrap it around the ribbons. Would that work?See the photos of my projector's LCD ribbon cables, the shielding tape, and some blurry screenshots from the other people's repair videos.Thanks in advance!Koray

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2024, 11:24:46 pm
content: It looks like it already has some level of copper shielding in the flat flex itself. Adding more might help, or might not do much. No harm to try a bit. It should be grounded.If it worked once without the ferrites though that makes me suspicious that the problem is something else.https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803568588508.html

author: Koray
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 17, 2024, 08:38:53 pm
content: Thank you for your suggestion!I prepared a makeshift ferrite substitute with 4-5 layers of metallic shielding tape. I then wrapped the shielding with cloth tape for insulation. I applied the new shielding without removing the LCD ribbon cables so that I could test its functionality. IT WORKED! :-) Apparently the interference from the upper board (only 1cm away) was too great. See the photos below.The image quality and contrast was still not to my standards so I tore the projector down again and this time I completely disassembled and cleaned the lens elements. They were all cloudy. Now like brand new and the contrast is much better. For anyone working on the optical block in projectors, I advice checking the projector lens for cloudiness, too. It also makes a difference. I had to clean and re-lubricate the auto-iris, too. I put it all back together and test run for an hour or so, works great!A pleasure to post and receive messages in this forum! Thank you all!Koray
Need help with a TEMEX MCFRS-01/10M rev B Rubidium standard module - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: 5065AGuru
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2021, 03:29:41 am
content: Hi,I have had this unit sitting on a shelf for years and finally decided to try it out.Locks fine however the output frequency is about 2.5X10-9th off.I can adjust the frequency with the analog adjust pin input but at one end of the external potI get the mentioned offset. As I adjust the pot to the other end the offset just gets worse.It has a data in and a data out pin that I suspect might allow me to move it back onto frequency but I can't find any data on this beast other that a data sheet.Any help to enable talking to this unit would be appreciated!Cheers,Corby

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2021, 06:13:36 am
content: I don't remember where I found this, but here's the manual.

author: 5065AGuru
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2021, 05:47:41 pm
content: Ed,Thanks so much!Just what I needed.I'll play around with it this weekend and see if I can get it back on frequency.Cheers,Corby

author: 5065AGuru
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2021, 12:31:10 am
content: Hooked up RS232 per the instructions, entered a new coarse frequency setting "C13" and now the external pot is at its midrange for exactly on frequency!HooRayCorby
Need Help with Allen Bradley MicroLogix 1756 Redundant Power Supply Repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Abid2414
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 12, 2024, 05:47:19 am
content: I'm currently troubleshooting an Allen Bradley MicroLogix 1756 redundant power supply. The orange light (redundancy indication) is blinking, but the yellow light (indicating proper operation) is not. I suspect a hardware issue, but I'm looking for more insights on how to repair it.
need help with charger repair Ryobi BCL14181H 18V  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: indulisap
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 30, 2020, 06:59:28 pm
content: One transistor-like component has evaporatedleaving only a black hole.Help with informationCould someone brave unscrew their undamaged charger and take a photoIndulis

author: Phil-S
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 30, 2020, 09:54:45 pm
content: Is this a Nicad charger?I have an 18-V Plus-one charger, I think, that made itself redundant when all the battery packs failed. I'm afraid it's no more Ryobi for me.

author: indulisap
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 01, 2020, 04:51:47 pm
content: I was given it to try to repair.HOPE FOR ANY RIGHT PEOPLE to look at your charger for missing component name.

author: shved
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 08, 2020, 06:36:17 pm
content: Show the reverse side of the board.

author: indulisap
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 09, 2020, 10:34:03 am
content: It is the image of the other.

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2020, 10:04:18 pm
content: I would expect that was exactly the same capacitor and parallel to the remaining one next to it.It is possible that the track is cut.Looking at your photo I'm uncertain of the condition of the IC on that PCB.Did something go wrong with the wall wart in the first place?

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 09, 2020, 10:07:01 pm
content: Quote from: Phil-S on January 30, 2020, 09:54:45 pmIt seems to say "Lithium 18V" on it.

author: indulisap
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 10, 2020, 10:55:53 am
content: three metal legs from a semiconductor device were left in the burned area.

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2020, 01:51:07 pm
content: I went to the trouble of looking in SWMBO's (don't ask... the colour I guess...) BCL14181H charger just in case... no luck! The problem is your charger is not the one stated in title, it's a RC18120.

author: shved
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 10, 2020, 09:42:59 pm
content: No luck, can't see jack.Reminds me of Dave's flaming PSU module video.All the black marks on the PCB are conductive! If you going to try to fix it you can dremel the black stuff off.Try to search for tear-down photos and videos.

author: indulisap
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 11, 2020, 08:34:17 pm
content: yet I not lose the hope to find out of the details name.FURTHER not already PROBLEMS WITH burnt SITES removal
Need help with component ID - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 25, 2022, 07:17:48 pm
content: I'm trying to identify the stepdown DC-DC converter in a Samsung T7 Shield SSD.https://tehnobzor.ru/gadzhety/obzor-samsung-t7-shield/(Review with photos)Its marking is "BEZM".pin 2 -> Vin (?)pin 3 -> LX (?)pin 4 -> GroundI don't need this information for a repair. I'm only trying to add this mystery component to my database. Also, I don't actually have this PCB, so I'm working from the photos.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 27, 2022, 09:49:00 pm
content: Found it.MP2183GTL, Monolithic Power, Step-Down Converter, 2.5V - 5.5V, 3A, 1.2MHz, marking BEZy, SOT583:https://www.monolithicpower.cn/cn/documentview/productdocument/index/version/2/document_type/Datasheet/lang/en/sku/MP2183GTL-Z/document_id/6489/
Need help with component identification for LG LED TV - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: DIODEKID
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 22, 2021, 09:15:21 pm
content: Hello everyone,I was wondering if anyone could help me identify a component that is located on the motherboard of an LG, 55GA6400 LED TV. I attached photos of the part in question. There are several of these same exact components located on the board and they have individual numbers identifying each one. The part was initially loose and fell off of the motherboard-or it may have had some assistance. The TV turns on but there is no image. Please let me know if you can ID the part. Thanks in advance!!

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2021, 12:12:21 am
content: That appears to be a block of foam with a conductive outer wrapping for grounding and reducing interference.If it was already loose before disassembly, it may have shorted out and damaged something. Otherwise it should have no effect on operation.

author: shakalnokturn
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2021, 12:15:10 am
content: Soft foam or rubber covered with a conductive textile.They're used for grounding / shielding, here to make contact between main board ground plane and back of TV screen.They're often not absolutely required for functionality, having them floating loose however is bad, they could create destructive short circuits.Amyk beat me to it...

author: sean0118
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2021, 01:36:58 am
content: I know it's not what you asked, but it's likely the fault is caused by faulty backlights or mainboard and unrelated to the EMC foam bits. Have a read through these:https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=57964https://badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=65957Just be careful, there are voltages in there that can kill you.
Need help with decoding error codes on Panasonic AG-1970P SVHS VCR - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: R66F
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 01, 2022, 12:55:40 pm
content: I've got a Panasonic AG-1970P SVHS VCR that has problems with the load & eject mechanism. The VCR uses the Panasonic G2 mechanism. I've tried realigning the gears that control the load & eject mechanism & replacing the main cam gear (The original was missing some teeth.), however I either get error codes or the mechanism jams & makes loud noises. The error codes I am getting are 011C4, 021C2 & 020C5. I did find a service manual for this VCR here:https://freeservicemanuals.info/en/servicemanuals/viewmanual/Panasonic/G2CHASSISVHS/GREV/GII/MECHANICALCHASSIS/, however I can't quite seem to figure out what they mean (I did figure out that the first one, 011C4, is "Machine lock during unloading".). Does anybody else on here know how to fix this?
[solved] Need help with diode replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: RayRay
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 01:54:05 pm
content: Hey guys.I need to replace a few fried diodes on an old amp (30DF2 ones) and I don't have an exact match in my stock, but do have a couple that could potentially suffice (MUR460 & UF5408) and this is what I need your help with.Here are the datasheets:Original (30DF2):https://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/86434/NIEC/30DF2/79/1/30DF2.htmlPotential replacement #1 (MUR460):https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/mur420-d.pdfPotential replacement #2 (UF5408):https://www.vishay.com/docs/88756/uf5400.pdfThey seem to be compatible for the most part (with some small quirks). Is it okay to replace a fast diode (200NS) with a faster one (50/75NS)? Also, does it matter if the replacement is rated for a slightly higher "Maximum Instantaneous Forward Voltage" than the original? Looking at the datasheets, do you think these replacement optiosns are adquate? Thanks!

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 07:53:35 pm
content: A circuit diagram would help.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 08:28:43 pm
content: I would use either as a substitute.

author: floobydust
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 08:43:50 pm
content: For the speed issue, need to see where they are used to know if it will affect things. Likely not at audio frequencies.Higher voltage diodes can have higher forward voltage i.e. MUR320 (200PIV) 0.89V vs MUR330-360 (300-600PIV) 1.28V at 3A.UF5402 is 200PIV 3A fast recovery 50nsec, Vf=0.9V 3A for the UF5400-5404, Vf=1.4V 3A for the UF5405-5408.30DF2 is 200PIV 3A fast recovery 200nsec, C-16 case Vf=1.05V 3A

author: RayRay
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2021, 09:19:33 pm
content: Update: Ended up using a slightly lower UF diode (UF5404) and the amp works perfectly now!Thanks guys.
Need help with Fluke 105B Keyboard.  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: chinoy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2020, 07:13:28 pm
content: So the Fluke is a pretty rare oddity in my country.So changes of finding spares is low.Also I would not wish to replace on problem part with another.Im talking about the think plastic film they call a keyboard.Would anybody happen to have a gerber file that would allow me to print the keyboard on a PCB.My problem is I use my scope everyday. So taking out the film. Making a gerber myself is a problem.Its just one or two keys acting up. For now I have them on a tinfoil patch.I have heard you can also redraw these pads anybody know anything about this.

author: t1d
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2020, 11:57:30 am
content: This is a YouTube video of someone doing a similar keyboard pad repair. Maybe it will give you some ideas.This person used a thin fiberglass PCB. However, flexible PCBs are now available from the Chinese board houses. And, Dave at EEVBlog did a video on how to order genuine custom keypads. It is very much like ordering a PCB. It looks to be easy. So, flexible is probably better than a hard board.Additionally, it may just be that your pads and keys need to be cleaned. Look on YouTube to learn how to do it.Used parts and components are sold on Ebay, but you are taking a chance on what you buy there. The video also shows the author finding replacement parts, but they were expensive, which is why he made his own.I like that you are trying to get prepared, before stopping using the unit. You will want to find, on the internet...a) the schematic, for your unit, or one similar,b) the repair manual, and thec) the operator's manual.But, at some point, you are just going to have to postpone using the unit and repair it.Remember to unplug the unit, before you open it. And, drain any capacitors. Then, take lots of pictures and post them, here. We would be glad to try to help.
Need help with LCD screen and ribbon cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: ollihd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2020, 08:06:25 pm
content: Hi all,I have this old PocketPro shot timer that has the ribbon cable connecting the LCD-panel to the LCD-module broken off (see attachment). As far as I know it's a "heat attach" cable, but the glue seems to we worn off. How should I start going about fixing this? Can I somehow find out the what the LCD-module/screen is? Can I order a new ribbon cable somehow? Any suggestions are most welcome.

author: Koray
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2020, 08:24:43 pm
content: Someone suggested the following product for this repair before. I never used it but it may be a cheap and viable solution.https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Electrically-Conductive-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape-9703-Z-axis-double-sided-/202629638211K.
Need help with logo - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2023, 10:09:07 pm
content: Does anyone recognise the logo on U7 in this photo?https://info.mrtlab.com/uploadfile/202304/28/1745133741.pngThis is the product:https://info.mrtlab.com/notice/334.htmlI have identified most of the other major ICs:https://www.recoveryforce.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=2532#p2532

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2023, 10:27:03 pm
content: The logo is Winnermicro, but the exact IC is hard to tell, possibly W600 series. It is a wireless MCU, but I guess it is just used as a cheap general purpose MCU here.Although on the slanted view it looks like it has W800.

author: fzabkar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 02, 2023, 10:48:43 pm
content: To me it looks like a W806. A W800 has 32 pins.http://ask.winnermicro.com/article/3.htmlhttps://www.winnermicro.com/upload/1/editor/1642037221172.pdfhttps://www.winnermicro.com/upload/1/editor/1642037179704.pdfhttps://www.winnermicro.com/upload/1/editor/1661928116918.pdfMany thanks.Edit:This is the Chinese product page for the W806 (no English version):https://www.winnermicro.com/html/1/156/248/571.html
Need Help with Megger BITE 3 Battery Pack and Charger Issue - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: wawinfo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 22, 2025, 07:32:34 am
content: Hi everyone,I’m working on repairing a Megger BITE 3. The main device is now fixed, but the battery pack isn’t powering it on. One of the four batteries was faulty, and I’ve replaced it. However, the charger circuit isn’t working properly—the charge indicator shows incorrect values and stays stuck at the first bar on the bargraph.Additionally, I suspect a auxiliary component attached to the main board via header pins might be missing or faulty.Can anyone provide guidance or share a photo of the inside of the BITE 3 battery pack for reference? Any help would be greatly appreciated!Thanks!
need help with repair on VS-125 wireless camera hunter  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: magic_427
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 19, 2019, 11:09:00 pm
content: Can some one help me please?I have a problem and was wondering if anyone here can help me fix it. I really dont know electronics but have fixed a few easy things. I bought a device on ebay called a VS-125 Wireless camera hunter it is supposed to detect1.2G 2.4G and 5.8G wireless camera signals automatically lock on to them and display video as well as play audio. it turns, but isn't really locking on to my test cameras the display comes on and looks to be ok but show snow,doesn't seem to not have any other glitches besides that it appears to be "trying to hone in on" the signals just cant quite get there. after opening it i seen it must have gotten moisture in it once or something where you could seecorrosion crusting up on the leads and stuff and i noticed someone had tried to fix it previouse to me and looks like they had no idea what they were doing. the rest of the boards look fine(although i know that doesnt meananything) and i removed ever micro spec of corrosion as carefully as possible. if you look closely at the first and last picture (might have got mixed up but all the same pic) , just down and right from the hole on the first picture (hole is top left of the pic) you will see a pieceof what looks the green plastic (pointing directly at the hole) of the board they ripped the new resister from and it appears to be underneath the weld. I am not sure that is a problem or not, also i noticed that the componentsusually fit inside of the white rectangles on the board and they usually fit to size, and it looks like on that green plastic the left component should be going up and down rather slanted down and left. I cant tell til i remove thatpiece of plastic but it looks like that would fit inside that rectangle under it where it looks like it would make more sense. then right next to it to the right the other resister doesn't look like it belongs at all, along with theperfectly round dot of soldier picture 3 and 4 are the whole board flipped right to left. If any one can help I would appreciate it.