hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
fine strands vs coarse strands in stranded wire? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2018, 11:12:00 pm
content: I've noticed that some of the heavier gauge wire (14 AWG on up) is made of a lot of very fine strands and others consist of fewer larger diameter strands.Are there any differences between the two one should be aware of?

author: The Soulman
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2018, 11:18:54 pm
content: For the same wire gauge:More and thinner strands is a more flexible cable.Less and thicker strands is a cheaper cable.Can't think of much else.

author: coppice
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 12, 2018, 11:21:41 pm
content: Quote from: The Soulman on January 12, 2018, 11:18:54 pmAs well as greater flexibility, its far harder to fracture fine strands when tightly bending the cable.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2018, 01:49:31 am
content: The fine strand wire is normally marked as Machine Tool Wire (MTW) and is used when building, wait for it..., machine tools. Control panels and such.The heavy strand wire is usually considered building wire. The kind of thing that gets installed in conduit and runs from breaker panels to receptacles, for example.The fine strand MTW is usually tinned. Not always, but mostly.

author: IanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 13, 2018, 02:03:01 am
content: It's much harder to strip the insulation from fine stranded wire without taking some strands with it. For obsessive personality types that can be very frustrating.
Fine/coarse variable resistance  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Scigatt
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2016, 01:17:36 am
content: For a project I'm planning, I need to use pots to adjust resistances in the circuit. I want fine and course (near-)linear adjust here, and ideally using identical pots.What I need is a variable floating resistance, not a divided voltage.All the circuits I have looked at online have been for voltage dividers. The best I have been able to do so far is this:Each pot has a total resistance of 5k Ohms. Unfortunately, this comes with a strongly non-linear fine adjust. For this a need a total range of 500-3500 Ohms at least.

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 07, 2016, 01:59:19 am
content: Quote from: Scigatt on June 07, 2016, 01:17:36 amHiThe simple answer is to *not* use two identical pots. One solution would be:500 ohms fixed (since that is your minimum)2.5 K variable (since that is the closest "standard" part you are likely to find)500 ohms variable (since that makes up the total and is a normal value)Put them all in series and you have a 5:1 ratioNext solution would be a 5K in series with whatever makes you happy. A 10 ohm variable would give you 500:1.Bob

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2016, 02:09:19 am
content: Or just get a single multi-turn pot and optionally a nice large turns-counting knob . . . .You can spin a good heavy knob for coarse adjustment of a multiturn pot then tweak it gently to the exact value wanted faster than if you have to center a separate fine adjust pot before setting the coarse pot then go back to the fine pot for the final tweak.

author: jeroen79
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2016, 05:58:46 am
content: Quote from: Scigatt on June 07, 2016, 01:17:36 amWhy?
Finicky Touch IC Holtek BS816A-1 Rechargeable Lamp Controller - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: f618x
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 17, 2023, 08:10:10 am
content: Hey, I made quite an unwieldypost a few days earlierthat covered multiple sub-systems on my custom PCB for a rechargeable LED lamp project. So I'm breaking down each issue into its own thread. Anywho,Setup:The controller currently uses a Holtek BS816A-1 which I chose for its price and six channels- one channel per spike via an additional PCB and one attached to a standoff connecting to the body (this channel fails to pick up a change in state). The touch IC attaches to the spike PCB via a 5P PH JST cable. I'm using a pico RP2040 for an MCU and TP4056 as a charge controller for protected 18650 LiPos. The body of the lamp is nickel-plated aluminium, and the spikes are Rhodium-plated copper. To isolate the body I've made a few 3D-printed parts.Code:The code waits for a high signal from either of the touch channels 1-5. On a quick press it turns on the LEDs. On a long press, with the LEDs on, It rises the brightness, using PWM.Issue:I'm picky when it comes to touch controls, there's nothing I hate more than a finicky one-while the touch subsystem works; it doesn't work flawlessly.The touch is not as responsive as I'd like it to beOn battery the touch becomes even less responsiveOccasional phantom long-press-touches that rise the brightness (never short presses?!)Proposed Redesign:I am thinking to use a single-channel touch IC, Tontek TTP233D, for all 5 channels to reduce the risk of phantom touches. I also hope this increases the sensitivity but I'm just guessing. I am still planning on using the 5P PH JST cable and the same touch-spike PCB since I have them on hand. Would running one channel through 5 cables to 5 individual touch pads work? Here's how I imagine the change in layout (also subbing out the RP2040 due to power concerns)Please let me know what you think,
Finiding composition of circuit from frequency response and bode plot - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sean87
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2014, 11:57:53 pm
content: Hail to eevbloggers!I have the following bode plot and nyquist plot result of an unknown DUT (it is a filter I asume!).enter image description hereI wonder what kind of arrangement it has in terms of being a series or parallel RC or RLC network.Since the top left plot starts at 500 and to the middle of the frequency it reaches the minimum, I assume there is a resistor involved.Also because there is no so called half-circle in the nyquist diagram I assume there is no capacitor in the circuit.The phase shift from -90 to +90 in the lower left graph makes my head scratchy!What could be the circuit for this graph?

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2014, 01:10:45 am
content: Consider what is happening to the impedance at extremes of frequency - this should tell you what reactive components are in the circuit and how they are arranged. Then consider what impedance they would present at the middle of the frequency range - this will tell you how the resistor connected. I assume we are talking about perfect components?
Firmware and Embedded Systems Engineering - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Fantasma25
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2013, 04:10:32 am
content: So I am getting really interested on FPGAs, microcontrollers and embedded systems and its applications, but I can't tell just yet what is the difference between a firmware engineer and an embedded engineer. As far as I know, both of them write code that runs on a microcontroller/microprocesor, but what are the differences? Can someone share some work experience?

author: Zad
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2013, 04:46:02 am
content: I suspect it depends on the individual job description. In general terms, an embedded engineer will have predominantly hardware skills, with secondary skills in software. A firmware engineer will probably have little or no hardware training and experience.

author: Gath
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 03, 2013, 01:33:04 pm
content: It is a matter of definition.As far as I am concerned, an embedded engineer is an engineer that specializes in embedded systems, which involves system level integration, specific hardware design and firmware development. Such systems are self-sufficient, they do no need humans to interact directly with them. For this reason, they are usually rugged, super stable and heavily tested systems (e.g. automotive systems, segway stabilization system, ...).A firmware engineer would be more dedicated to writing the code that make embedded systems tick. Basically writing the code that is executed by the CPUs in an embedded system (whether the CPU in a micro-controller, or a soft-CPU instantiated in a FPGA).As an example of work experience, I once worked on the development of a microchip PIC firmware. Another engineer had developed the electronics for a USB controlled GPIO (relays and optocouplers) with a PIC at its heart, but he had not developed the firmware. I basically was handed a board and had to make it work. It is a bit like receiving a development board and programming it for a specific application, expect that it was a board that had been designed for a well-defined purposed. In this case, I worked as a firmware engineer. I had virtually not constrains from the system level integration of the board, everything was already physically build. I just had to bring intelligence to it.Anyway, you can't really do one without the other.
Firmware  for diy avr transistor tester - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: N1cho
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2017, 01:34:27 pm
content: hi guys,sorry admin if i post at the wrong forum, please move it, i'm new and desperate.i already bought 2 of these look alike avr transistor tester,https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/2016-DIY-kits-TFT-LCD-M328-Transistor-Tester-LCR-Diode-Capacitance-ESR-voltage-meter-PWM-Square/32649811953.htmlmy first unit the atmega328p-pu ic was burn, so i bought another of the same unit, this time i tried to make back up of the ic but, the ci was locked, browsing through i cannot find any match until i came across thishttps://yadi.sk/d/4XLgkWwTyX2xKbut it's in russian, i can only understand english.any one of you have the firmware is much appreciated.ps sorry if my english is bad.Thanks

author: jm_araujo
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2017, 02:23:46 pm
content: There's a thread dedicated to that family of testers here:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/$20-lcr-esr-transistor-checker-project/It's quite long (over 3700 messages), but you can find the most recent versions of the firmware near the end.

author: JoeO
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2017, 03:34:45 pm
content: Here is a link to the present last page. Work back from there.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/$20-lcr-esr-transistor-checker-project/3750/
Firmware update for the DSO3D12 oscilloscope - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: motoge
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2024, 10:53:08 pm
content: Please tell me the correct way. The software works, but the USB and DSO3D12 cannot be connected.

author: motoge
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2024, 02:08:30 am
content: たぶんUSBドライバーの不一致だと思うが、ドライバーの再インストールが必要なのかもしれません。試しにhttp://www.isme.fun/?log=blog&id=34 でも同様だったこれは異常なかったよ

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2024, 03:13:00 am
content: You have to follow the directions 100% to the letter. Did you press the power button and keep it pressed? You need to keep it pressed until the transfer is complete.

author: motoge
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2024, 11:10:01 pm
content: ありがとうございました。 電源ボタンを数分押し続けなきゃだめでしたThank you. I had to hold down the power button for a few minutes.The file software Upgrade_Tools_V1.5.8.exe may be available in English.

author: BillyO
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2024, 11:21:17 pm
content: Quote from: motoge on October 01, 2024, 11:10:01 pmThe file I got had pictorial and text files explaining the process in English. The program itself was not in English.Glad you got it working.
First 4 layer PBC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: chinoPR
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 14, 2021, 01:09:21 pm
content: Hi everybody, I´m working in my first 4 layers PCB design and I have a few questions..1) I use this configuration: Layer 1: GND Plane and traces / Layer 2 : GND Plane / Layer 3 : VCC Plane / Layer 4 : GND Plante and traces...I use a step down (24V -->5V) and next I have three 3.3V output LDO for differents purposes. Do I make my VCC plane with all the voltages or only all 3.3V? 5V isn´t use for components directly, only reduce de tension for my LDO input.2) On mi TOP Layer I have a Lora Transmiter or Sigfox with the same pinout adapter to change depending the case, just below of the RF place of the PCB (Layers 2 3 4), Can I make GND and VCC planes or I have to leave the free spot?THANKS
First attampts with a charge pump - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: terriea
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2010, 04:37:00 pm
content: Hi,I have some trouble with a circuit I try to make, and i can't figure what's wrong. Maybe it will be really obvious to real electonic engineers.I'm trying to make a charge pump to raise a 5v to 12v. And I'd like to be able to switch quickly the tention. That's for providing a VPP for programming a PIC. Found this little project very interesting to begin with electonic. I managed to get the pump working (got around 13v) and make a switching mechanism with two npn transistors. (I attached the cricuit picture to the post don't know if it shows up).command input : pin marked L on the schematicT1 : transistor at the bottom linked to the groundT2 : transistor on top liked to the charge pump outputThis is what I was expecting to get :When command input is Low, T1 is opened, T2 is closed. Tention on T2 emiter is charge pump tention minus T2 base-emiter forward voltage (up to zener tention).When command input is High, T1 is closed, T2 is opened. Tention on T2 base is close to zero and current goes down the ground through T1. With the 470k resistor the current should not be enought to dry out the 100u capacitor of the pump. So when we switch back, the tention on the 100M resistor raises directly to 12v instead of a slow incrementation.The simulation gives me exactly what I expected. When I switch the command input, the tention on the 100M resistor switches directly and the tention in the pump is preserved. In practice, I have a different comportement. With my implementation when command input is Low I have the same results, but then command input is high the tention on the 100u capacitor drops around 8 volt. So when I switch back to low input the tention takes time to go back from 8 to 12v.There is really something I'm missing here. Is anyone has any hints ? thxIf you want to play with the simultation click here :http://www.falstad.com/circuit/index.htmlClick on menu File>Import, and then copy paste the following code :Code:$ 1 5.0E-6 5.459815003314424 65 5.0 43R 192 144 160 144 0 0 40.0 5.0 0.0 0.0 0.5d 192 144 240 144 1 0.805904783d 240 144 288 144 1 0.805904783d 288 144 336 144 1 0.805904783c 240 144 240 224 0 1.0E-6 4.863609993506333c 288 144 288 224 0 1.0E-6 1.357337975778239c 336 144 336 224 0 9.999999999999999E-5 6.2212372591500555R 240 224 240 272 1 2 1220.0 2.5 2.5 0.0 0.5R 288 224 288 272 1 2 1220.0 2.5 2.5 3.141592653589793 0.5g 336 224 336 272 0p 240 144 336 224 0p 288 144 336 224 0g 480 288 480 320 0r 480 144 480 208 0 470000.0r 432 272 384 272 0 1000.0L 384 272 384 336 0 0 false 5.0 0.0w 480 208 480 256 0w 480 144 528 144 0w 528 144 528 192 0r 560 224 560 288 0 1.0E8w 528 288 480 288 0t 432 272 480 272 0 1 -6.1977021288495076 4.999999999801981E-11 100.0t 480 208 528 208 0 1 -0.023535130250547986 0.4434744078508954 100.0z 528 288 528 224 1 0.805904783 12.0w 528 224 560 224 0w 528 288 560 288 0w 336 144 480 144 0o 10 64 0 34 20.0 9.765625E-5 0 -1o 11 64 0 34 20.0 9.765625E-5 1 -1o 6 64 0 35 20.0 102.4 2 -1o 19 64 0 35 20.0 9.765625E-5 3 -1
First attempt, a DIY shunt resistor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Teno
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 22, 2019, 08:46:03 pm
content: Hello there!Firt try at creating a simple shunt resistor.Beside using some specific wire, just made one using common materials.I'm happy, it works!Is 1mv per 100mA.Now I wnat to buid another one.Wich material should I use?Cheers from Argentina!https://otroblogdemarcelo.wordpress.com/2019/09/21/shunt/

author: joeqsmith
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2019, 09:05:18 pm
content: I have no idea what your "common" materials are but you may want to consider something more stable than copper.https://www.quora.com/Why-are-alloys-like-constantan-and-manganin-used-for-making-standard-resistorsHere is a link where I was attempting to make my own.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/msg1168820/#msg1168820

author: MagicSmoker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 22, 2019, 10:01:50 pm
content: A proper shunt resistor will be made of manganin (or, less commonly, constantan) because these alloys have relatively high bulk resistivity and a near-zero temperature coefficient of resistance, but you can get decent results with stainless steel. The tempco of stainless steel isn't zero, but it's much lower than mild steel and doesn't corrode/rust.For example, a 1mm diameter 316SS wire that is 10.61cm long will have a resistance of 0.100 Ohms (bulk resistivity of 74 microOhms-cm).

author: Teno
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 22, 2019, 10:45:16 pm
content: Quote from: joeqsmith on September 22, 2019, 09:05:18 pmCommon= stainless steel wireCannot have access to any suitable material other than kanthal, bring any to Argentina is quite hard
First big op amp design, does it look like it will work? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ConnorGames
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 08, 2012, 04:46:03 am
content: Could you please look over this schematic and tell me if it will work (assuming the right signals are applied to p1 by the MCU/ADC board. It's my first circuit of this scale, so I wanted to get a second opinion on it before I hit the "buy" button.Schematic(KiCad):http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11366066/LdPSU.schDesign goals(not set in stone, I know the low current range accuracy will probably not be that good):http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11366066/DesignCriteria.txtImage is below:Thanks a bunch - Connor!
First Electronics video - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: victor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 05:29:24 am
content: A while ago I posted this tutorialTurn a broken laptop screen into a portable light table for drawingon Instructables and it got featured on the site. This made me pretty happy.Since then I got so many questions, that I decided to record a little "tutorial" on how to find the pin out of those inverter boards.I always wanted to do something like this for a long time, but I was never confident enough to do it.I know that this is very, very beginner level to this electronic engineering forum, although this is more of a hacking thing, I want to share this with the community anyway, and would like to have my video criticized. I'm more concerned about my foreign english than anything, and I know that I couldn't get some pronunciations right. but yeah, I really would appreciate any feedback on how bad you think it is. And honestly if I should persist on doing more videos.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 01:22:52 pm
content: Looks good to me I think you got the idea across quite clear. Would be nice if you added some annotations about the dangers of electrocution from the inverter output past the HV transformer (and not to use your multimeter to test it).

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 01:33:02 pm
content: Nice work.Audio is the right level and nice and clear which is most important.Screen capture quality is good.Pace is nice and you got your point across.Nothing to nit pick at all really.Do make more, you never know where it might lead!

author: rsjsouza
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 02:35:00 pm
content: Excellent video! The approach of using an image editor to follow both the datasheet and the board photograph is very clever.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 02:36:22 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on June 17, 2015, 01:33:02 pmRecent evidence shows that excessive electronics videos leads to making babies. Congratulations, btw.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 02:38:39 pm
content: Quote from: Shock on June 17, 2015, 02:36:22 pmAnd grey hairs.And writing forum posts at 12:38am

author: lapm
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 05:13:05 pm
content: Nice video... Liked how you used graphics to clear things..

author: Aodhan145
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 06:42:37 pm
content: Nice video. I need to make one of those light boxes now.

author: victor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 18, 2015, 02:42:27 am
content: Thanks for all the supportive comments
First hot air station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: bitshift
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2016, 07:31:54 am
content: Hey guys,The time has come to purchase a hot air station. I was thinking of purchasing thisATTEN 858D+.I've read about the issues related to QA with this unit. It's also been around for a quite a few years. For a similar amount of money, is there something better on the market these days?

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 01, 2016, 12:20:31 pm
content: I have the Yihua 858D and, like the Atten, it is OK for hobby use. Just make sure you peek under the skirt and fix any dodgy wiring.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2016, 06:02:23 pm
content: I'd suggest looking to see if a Quick 957D is available in your location (alibaba listing).Found a seller that ships to South Africa (here, though they're more expensive than the link above (not sure how shipping may shift this).They're both for 220V versions, so worst case, you'd only have to change the plug end on the power cord.There's a thread in hear that shows tear down photos, and is a good read IMHO (957D photos).
First Oscilloscope (DSO Nano) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 05, 2010, 03:51:11 am
content: Dave: Do you or your readers have any experience with the DSO Nano from China for about $80.00 US and what would your recommendation be as for itsuse as a first scope for the beginning hobbyist.--Ira Laefsky

author: rossmoffett
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2010, 03:55:42 am
content: Here you go.My advice is to try and find a used scope for around that price, the bandwidth will be far superior, even if it's not pocket-sized.

author: ArtemisGoldfish
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2010, 02:22:40 pm
content: Like Ross said, look for a decent analog scope around that price range. Though you will lack storage capability, storage in a 1MHz bandwidth scope isn't extremely useful because of the bandwidth limitation (unless you only plan to be measuring AF signals.) I bought an 80's B+K Analog scope from my school's surplus sale for about $12, has 30MHz of bandwidth, quite useful for analog signals, though I think the astig control is going out.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 09, 2010, 05:27:29 pm
content: get yourself a cheap second hand analogue scope or a cheap digital like the Rigol

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 09, 2010, 10:58:35 pm
content: I concur. Get a used analog scope, it will be infinitely more useful than the toy-like Nano.If you ask around nicely people give away decent analog scopes for FREE!Dave.

author: VladKEasternTiger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2010, 10:35:42 am
content: Where do you have to go? I looked at Oscillscope and they are expensive products

author: joelby
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2010, 12:31:51 pm
content: Look out for old analogue scopes on eBay or your local equivalent.For an example of how cheap they are, here's one for $10 -http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Oscilloscope-BWD-804-DC-10-MHZ_W0QQitemZ220566103278QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment?hash=item335ac3a4ee#ht_500wt_1182Note - I would probably not buy this one. But here's a better one:http://cgi.ebay.com.au/bwd-25-mhz-dual-trace-oscilloscope_W0QQitemZ280472117083QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Electronics_Radio_Equipment?hash=item414d70df5b#ht_500wt_1182Try to get a dual trace one (two inputs). Try to get one that includes probes.If you are working on audio circuits, 10 or 25 MHz of bandwidth is plenty. For RF, you'll probably want at least 100 or 200 MHz, depending on the frequency bands you're working with.

author: VladKEasternTiger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2010, 08:45:10 pm
content: Thanks for the information my friend

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 10, 2010, 08:50:39 pm
content: I got my first cheap scope on ebay, then i decided to spash out on a rigol and actually resold the scope for more than I paid for it but regretted it as both types are handy to have, well it made buying the rigol possible
First oscilloscope - Keysight EDUX1002G vs DSOX1102A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: newbie666
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2018, 10:43:49 am
content: I'm looking into buying my first oscilloscope. At first I was going to pick up a - now classic - Rigol DS1054Z but then I learned about the low end scopes from Keysight.I'm almost decided on EDUX1002G as I love the idea of having a built-in signal generator (I don't have a dedicated lab space for now so less equipment == better and easier to set up) but I just wanted to check with you guys to understand what I'm loosing by selecting EDU rather than DSO scope.I went through the datasheet and the only difference I see is* bandwidth (I don't think I need more than 50Mhz for now)* memory depth (order of magnitude better on DSO)* segmented memoryI don't really understand implications of the latter two so I probably don't need better specs anyway, correct me if I'm wrong.I'll be using it to test some audio stuff, smps psu, simple uC circuits.Anyway, if anybody went through similar decision process I'd love to hear what were pros and cons and what you ended up with.
First PCB - how does it look?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: LooseJunkHater
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2024, 11:06:05 pm
content: PCB view (no traces on the underside):Schematic:Main IC: MP5035https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/mp5035.htmlHoles labelled STP* (small holes) are TestPoint_THTPad_D1.5mm_Drill0.7mm. Holes labelled BTP* (big holes) are TestPoint:TestPoint_THTPad_D3.0mm_Drill1.5mm. The trace sizes are 3mm and 0.6mm.I purposely went with through-holes for increased durability (if I need to perform bodges/mods). I also obviously have not yet laid the ground plane yet.Feedback? Thanks.

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2024, 11:47:45 pm
content: There is no ground pour. All your components are just hanging in the air. EDIT: I see your comment about the ground. Well, the ground is basically the most important part with voltage regulators and similar power-related devices.Instead of those pointlessly thick traces, move capacitors as close to the IC pins as possible.The datasheet has recommended PCB layout. Yours is not even close.

author: JustMeHere
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2024, 02:13:57 am
content: I'd suggest a barrel jack or pin header for your VIn. And a pinhead for your Vout. You definitely want at least 2 GND connectors. One for your power in and one for your power out. Think: how do I want to connect this?And for your fuse, consider a PTC.Since it looks like you got everything on one side, use the botton for your ground plane. A ground plane should only.have holes through it. No slots. If you add it to the top then you will have slots. Probably not a big deal in this design, but just stay away from a slotted up ground plane.

author: Shell Albert
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2024, 05:45:10 am
content: great job! your first PCB project is much more beautiful than mine, couples of years ago. More PCB layout you do, more better it will be. I sincerely accept other experts suggestions, but I insist on reducing complex, like if there's no GND connecting terminals, I would solder two wires together, it won't be a problem.
First Power Supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: RissViss
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 15, 2019, 08:26:59 pm
content: Hello, would like some help putting everything together.Small Power brick is for the laptop that will sit on top when case is closed, give me more room on my work bench that is 17inch (43mc)wide, 30inch (76cm) deep.It is also needed for the Oscilloscope, and takes up less space in the case then some place on the bench, or on the floor.Large Power brick (19V 7A) will be used to power DP30V5A converter (maybe ground front, case, and fan? see below). will be glued down to the case. At the moment should only need a max of 12V from this power supply. When I need more ill order a larger power supply online.This are the leads that I am looking at, if there is better and less expensive only need red black and maybe a green lead.https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07DS7MPWJ/?coliid=I15T81MN1EHRE4&colid=H1XYHHZ08IDU&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_itThese are the binding post.https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B019C6RX52/?coliid=I3Q7OKUL8SYFN2&colid=H1XYHHZ08IDU&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_itLooking at these two item because they ship from amazon and will be here kind of fast.This is the only local place to purchase fromhttps://www.tiptopelectronics.com/there maybe better options here that I can see in person.With the laptop on top of the case and the Hantek in the case, it will get used more, having limited space on my bench having to take out laptop and the hantek and sit it up they take up more space with the things stack, will give me more room.If you need more info please ask, will try to provide it, as best as I can.1. Do I need to ground the case? (case is a striped down Lenovo office pc, all metal.)2. If there is a need to ground the case can I use the ground on the larger power brick which will give power to the DP30V5A converter up front. (drill a hole and solder on the ground and then attach to the case.)3. Think of putting a metal shield between the power bricks and the Hantek oscilloscope. Yes / No4. Should I also take a second wire from the power brick and put a ground binding post on the front of the case, the front still has to be made.5. Need to power the fan in the back, what is the best/inexpensive way to do this. Can you use resisters? Power brick is 19V 7A fan is 12V .13A would like to run the fan with less rpm and give it about 9V.When answer questions, could you please use the number beside the question thanks.If you have a suggestion (low cost) to make the build better would be great.
First power supply purchase suggestions. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: belzrebuth
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 01, 2016, 03:21:58 pm
content: I know it's been discussed before but I don't feel like reviving an old thread so here it is.For a while I've been using chinese power supply kits from ebay ,bare psu modules,atx psus,various step up/down converters,diy supplies etc but I think it's time to get a 'proper' lab psu.I'll probably buy a used one of a known manufacturer.I'm in Europe so 230V only.A convenient voltage range would be 0-30V or maybe up to 50v and constant current feature (I don't think I need more than 2A)Other requirement would be a LCD screen and it has to be a linear and hopefully without a fan!I wouldn't mind the dual or triple output although price might be an issue for that since my budget is about150-200$.I've been looking at used HP power supplies on ebay but there are too many models to choose from..I've been reading that not all HP power supplies are easily repairable so I'd like one that could be easier to troubleshoot if anything's wrong.
First power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: revtintin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 22, 2017, 09:18:33 am
content: Hi, new to electronics and was thinking of getting my first bench power supply. I noted from reading that eBay could be a great place for picking up a used one (HP?). My issue is that I live in a country where the AC is 220-240V. Can anyone suggest possible models for a beginner? Thanks.

author: MosherIV
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2017, 09:25:28 am
content: Bargin HP is harder to find here in europe, they are around but not cheap or common.Shipping from USA is expensive, plus you would have to make sure it is dual voltage.Try looking for Thurlby/TTI, Weir or Farnell PSUsThe Thurlby PL320 is a classic 30V 1 or 2A linear with voltage, current control and it has an output on/off switch, perfect for a beginner.They are very common on ebay, just make sure seller says is in PERFECT WORKING ORDER, there are plenty with faults.

author: revtintin
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 22, 2017, 02:17:44 pm
content: Quote from: MosherIV on July 22, 2017, 09:25:28 amGood point on the shipping... I'll look for those as you said. Thanks!

author: macboy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2017, 02:41:16 pm
content: +1 on both TTi (Thurlby) and Farnell (Wayne Kerr). I have a couple of each, and they are as good as my various HP supplies. In fact I've decided to keep the TTi and Farnell supplies and sell some of my HPs since the HPs have so much more resale value (good if you're selling, not so much if you are buying).
First Project, how hard can it be? [Modular USB hub for wireless buds] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mORAV
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2025, 04:16:27 pm
content: First time poster, first time playing with the angry pixies.First of all, I love the fact that old-school forums like this one are still alive and kicking. Reddit and Discord have killed a lot of the magic.Now, to the project!I'm cheap, forgetful, and lazy, so I get cheap Bluetooth buds. I lose them all the time, and I hate having to plug them in to recharge them.The solution?A 4x1 modular USB-C station to recharge them. The idea is to have the base station and 4 3D-printed "shells" of the buds I use at that time, with a USB-C port in the exact position that could help me just put them in the hole without even looking to see if I get it right.I know some things, and I need some help.I would like to use USB-C, and that's a problem. I don't really know how to design a circuit that draws 20W from a charger with a USB decoy and divides it into 4x5W (that was the idea). So, what's the best way to do it?The second-best way to do it is taking an old USB hub I had, desoldering the USB ports, and putting some cables that connect to a USB-C male connector that I will glue into the 3D-printed shell. In an ideal world, I would do it with a 4x1 connector so I don't have to solder every time I lose a pair of headphones.Then, I will cut the male USB cable from the port and solder a female USB-C port.This affair SHOULD give only 5W for the whole contraption (without the USB decoy), so it COULD work but charge the headphones very slowly if more than two are present at the same time.Any suggestions on how I should go about this project?

author: mORAV
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2025, 10:42:32 am
content: So, this is my first soldering attempt:It..works.I think.The sacrificable usb headphones i connected to the wire are charging so there is the "proof of concept"The problem of the amout of power with this solution remains

author: eleguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2025, 03:51:25 pm
content: Quote from: mORAV on April 04, 2025, 04:16:27 pmMaybe it is a good idea at least to check/read what PD sink controllers can do for you. For example AP33771C (PD3.1) is not too expensive and is pretty straight forward to use. One can ask the chip to negotiate voltage/current just with the resistors only. With AP33711C you can set the output (your thingy input) to 5V and up to 5A as long the host/charger/adapter supports it.
First project: Nixie clock - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Andy24x
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 09:46:16 pm
content: Hi guys!I am a big fan of vintage Electronics and have sucessfully restored a few Tube radios. Everytime I see a Nixie clock I want one, so thanks to Dave for finally pushing me over the edge to buy some Nixies. I want to use a design very close to Daves Mains referenced TTL Clock but with a 24H display. The Nixies arrived and I couldnt wait for the Chinese Dc converter to arrive so I used an EZ80 rectifier tube with my variable Transformer to get a 170V DC supply. (Dont have a variable HV DC supply yet) I used 2 7490 ICs to divide the 50Hz to 1Hz, a 7490 to count from 0-9 and a russian 74141 to drive the Nixie.Heres where the problems start: the 7490 skips Digits. It counts 0-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-9-0-1-2 and so on.I have tried multiple 7490s but all I have skip digits. I watched the 1Hz wit a LED and the counter clearly skips from 7 to 9 with a single impulse. Do you have any Ideas what could cause that and how to fix it?

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 09:51:08 pm
content: How did you get the 50Hz mains down to a logic level squarewave? If your pulse edges are noisy the decade counters will double increment (or worse).What decoupling have you used?Also lets see your circuit layout and schematic

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 10:09:46 pm
content: Do you have sufficient supply decoupling on the 7490s? Going from 7 to 8 means three of the four BCD outputs change state at the same time which might be enough to cause a glitch if the supply isn't stiff enough.

author: Andy24x
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 10:18:46 pm
content: The schematic is on this page :http://bwir.de/digitaluhr-mit-standard-logik-ics-und-netzansteuerung/Its in German but that should not be a problem.I didnt use any decoupling caps, where should I put them? The circuit is on a breadboard for now, I will try to make a PCB when it all works.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2017, 10:36:13 pm
content: Quote from: Andy24x on January 28, 2017, 10:18:46 pm0.1uF disk ceramic across Vcc and Gnd of each logic chip, directly over the top of the chip on the breadboard, or as close to the Vcc pin as possible when you make a PCB, + 100uF electrolytic across the breadboard's 5V and Gnd rails.If you are using multiple breadboards, link all power or ground bus strips at BOTH ends of each breadboard, and beware*of breadboads with bus strips with a break in the middle. If the red, blue or black bus strip marker lines have a gap in the middle they are almost certain to need a jumper to connect the two halves of each bus strip. If they don't have lines indicating the layout, check continuity end to end with your meter to be certain they are continuous.* Very odd things can happen if a logic chip has signals on its inputs but no power supply. SeeEEVblog #831 - Power A Micro With No Power Pin!
First scope, please help get something other than 60hz ;) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jdurango
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2015, 08:03:26 pm
content: Just bought a Tek 2232 from a very highly regarded local tech here in Seattle. He hooked it up to a function generator and showed me a few waveforms on each channel and ran through the basics....everything "should" be working properly with it.Got it home and just wanted to play around with it....I figured the easiest way to measure some audio would be to plug a 1/8" TRS aux cable into my phone and play some music or waveforms and just play around with some settings. But i'm not able to get any waveform at all, other than 60hz on any conductive surface I touch (about 8-9 2ms divisions).It's worth noting that he tested the scope with good probes, but I'm using the ones he included with the scope, which are brand new, but super super cheap chinese junk probes. But again, I'm not getting ANY measurements other that varying intensities of 60hz on anything, either channel, either probe. I'm guessing I'm just missing a setting....I plan to RTFM, but it's HUGE! In the meantime, can someone guide me how to get a basic audio measurement? I don't have a function/audio generator...I planned on using my DAW with very, very high-end audio interface for that (Black Lion Audio premium modded RME UFX).What's strange is that the 1x/10x switch on the cheapie probes doesn't seem to effect the voltage reading at all.As you can tell, I'm a complete newbie with this stuff. Thanks for your help!

author: w2aew
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2015, 02:40:48 am
content: Quote from: jdurango on July 24, 2015, 08:03:26 pmThe 60Hz pickup indicates that you don't have a proper ground referenced measurement.The 1x/10x switch changes the attenuation of the probe. I have a tutorial on 1X and 10X probes on my YouTube channel.

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2015, 04:53:38 am
content: Firstly, w2aew is _the_ person to give advice on these matters!Secondly, have you tried using the probe calibration point on your scope as a test signal? Hook up your probes' tip to the PRB ADJ point on the scope's front panel and set the timebase to 500us/div and vertical to 100mV/div. This is one of the very rare, almost unique, occasions you won't even need to connect the probe's ground lead, just the tip connected to PRB ADJ will be fine for now.The PRB ADJ gives a 0.5V amplitude square wave for you to test on, and its prime use is to calibrate probe compensation in their 10x mode but can also be used as a quick test signal.While you're at it, you might as well calibrate the compensation on each of your new probes too!
First time Gerber->PCB order - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dekra54
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 08, 2016, 01:42:43 pm
content: Hello ForumI'm just a few clicks away from my first order from PCBWay and I thought it would be nice if someone can take a quick look at my Gerber files.I have never done a gerber export because i'm using Target3001/PCB-Pool and they do it all for you to get your PCB done (But it's quite expensive)I renamed the files as PCBWay expect them but i'm curious if made the right settings for the export or forgot something.Thanks in advanceDennis

author: suicidaleggroll
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2016, 02:29:20 pm
content: Try uploading the gerbers on OSHPark. You don't have to actually place the order, but their software will parse the files and show you a preview of what it found and what the board would look like, which you can use to check for errors.

author: jpanhalt
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2016, 02:33:59 pm
content: I used to do that with Oshpark too, as I usually ordered from it. However, I understand that Oshpark no longer provides that service. Edit: I have not validated that assertion from a member on another site. On other sites, the free program, gerbv , is recommended.Link:http://gerbv.geda-project.org/JohnEdit#2: I checked Oshpark and it recommends gerbv (http://docs.oshpark.com/design-tools/gerbv/); however, it still seems to provide Gerber viewing service (http://docs.oshpark.com/submitting-orders/preflight-checklist/). Sorry for the misinformation. I will flagellate the individual who posted it with a wet noodle.

author: suicidaleggroll
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2016, 02:43:44 pm
content: Quote from: jpanhalt on April 08, 2016, 02:33:59 pmWhat do you mean? They no longer provide previews of the board before you order? Unless something changed since the last time I placed an order with them about 3 weeks ago, they absolutely still do.

author: dekra54
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 08, 2016, 05:27:53 pm
content: I tried it now with multiple Gerber viewers and the one from OSHP I think it looks like it shouldand I've ordered them now.ThanksDennis

author: volthaus
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 09, 2016, 10:04:38 am
content: I've been toldhttp://circuitpeople.com/is a worthwhile resource for checking your gerbers. I've never used them myself though, but thought I'd mention it.
First time manufacturing a PCB (Fabrication and Assembly drawings) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: funbags
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 08:04:39 pm
content: Hey All,Super noob here...TL;DR: Is there an EDA that lets me take an existing CVS and Gerber file and make a FAB and ASSY drawing?I'm trying to get some boards assembled, and the PCB assy company I'm talking to requested FAB and ASSY drawings so they can give me a more accurate quote. I have examples of what they're looking for, just no efficient way of making them.I've been using EasyEDA to design the board and have already had a few revisions of the PCB made for hand soldering, but as far as I can tell, there is no tool in EasyEDA that lets me make FAB or ASSY drawings. I suppose the chinese PCB company makes their own drill and plug files from the gerber I send them. I use the DOC layer to designate v-cuts/grooves, and other bits of info, but the FAB drawing does include more detailed info for the witness marks and such ( I assume).Is there a CVS converter or an other EDA that lets me make those drawings? I checked out KiCAD's site and unless it's a unlisted plug-in I did see it. The hard part is that I dont know exactly what terms to search for, for a capable software.Thanks!

author: funbags
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 14, 2018, 08:20:51 pm
content: NOTE: I'm watching Dave's 3 part tutorial on it right now....
First time merging gerbers and using 'Panelizer' - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: timgiles
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 23, 2018, 08:03:06 pm
content: Hi,I was hoping someone could run their eye over the attached gerbers. Its the first time I have used 'This is not rocket science' - gerger panelizer to merge two designs in to a panel - and add break off tabs. Split in to two zips to keep within 1Mb / file limit.Thanks in advanceTimothy