hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Teardown of 70s Burr-Brown Thick-film Hybrids - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2015, 06:42:32 pm
content: In the late 70s, as a publicity gimmick Burr-Brown distributed a calendar of the some of their ICs' internals. For no reason other than the pictures are pretty in themselves, I kept them. Now I’ve finally got round to crudely digitising them. For the curious, I've put them here:https://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/2015/07/07/images-of-late-70s-burr-brown-thick-film-hybrid-ics/As you can see, some of them were "torn down" with a hacksaw!There's a little other 70s vintage homebrew stuff there as well.

author: sarepairman2
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 07, 2015, 11:57:00 pm
content: i like those and 70's gear because you can see shiney metal traces, so its fun to look at and it feels like an "electronic device". Coatings... blah

author: dexters_lab
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 13, 2015, 12:01:50 pm
content: do you have any info on what their function is... or was?

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2015, 01:28:02 pm
content: Two are clearly isolators (https://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/2015/07/07/images-of-late-70s-burr-brown-thick-film-hybrid-ics/jpeg-14/#mainhttps://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/2015/07/07/images-of-late-70s-burr-brown-thick-film-hybrid-ics/jpeg-10/#main, the second one probably power), this one I guess is a DAC (https://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/2015/07/07/images-of-late-70s-burr-brown-thick-film-hybrid-ics/jpeg-9/#main), mostly because I've heard of such systems - two different dies, one for the fine analog stuff, one for the nasty digital stuff in one pack, and it has 14 (typical resolution of precision DACs) lines going to the other die in a similar fashion, this one (https://entertaininghacks.wordpress.com/2015/07/07/images-of-late-70s-burr-brown-thick-film-hybrid-ics/jpeg-15/#main) could be an op amp?

author: lpc32
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 13, 2015, 09:33:31 pm
content: Quaint.
seeed Mini Soldering Iron - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nidlaX
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2015, 02:56:03 am
content: Does anyone have any experience with thesemini soldering irons?

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2015, 08:39:51 am
content: Quote from: nidlaX on August 03, 2015, 02:56:03 amLooks like a new product that hasn't started shipping just yet.I'd be interested to know what sort of voltage input it can take, looks to me like most likely DC given the barrel jack. And if the tip/heater are unique to it (and if so, shape availability) or some standard hakko knock off will fit.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2015, 11:00:25 am
content: Looks interresting, but very long tip?Should have used C245 or C210 tips from JBC, that would be awesome..

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2015, 11:18:55 am
content: Holy tip to handle distance batman! You could park a bus in there!

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2015, 12:49:12 pm
content: Quote from: peter.mitchell on August 03, 2015, 11:18:55 amMy thoughts too. The tip is far too long at 72mm.There's a comparison of JBC, Metcal, and Weller irons here, and the only one close to 72mm is a mains-powered Weller:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/jbc-t210-a-(and-pa120-a)-handpiece-compared-to-some-other-tools/Here's another great comparison, no scale though:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/what-is-the-best-soldering-iron-out-there/msg219649/#msg219649I don't recognise that cartridge style. This is definitely not a 936-style clone (~55mm).

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 03, 2015, 01:30:51 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on August 03, 2015, 12:49:12 pm936?, very very far from it:

author: MrZeroo00
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 04, 2015, 12:16:32 pm
content: Seems like the same product I'm talking about in this other topic herehttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ts100-soldering-iron-test/rebranded.

author: Erythros
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 04, 2015, 12:57:56 pm
content: Looking at one of photos onBanggoodit looks like they hacked up the T12/T15 Hakko clones produced in China and built up controller pen for it. So the thermal values of this thing will be probably fine. But the distance of tip from hold is atrocious.And it is quite expensive, I would avoid buying this.

author: nukie
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 22, 2015, 12:24:32 pm
content: Very similar to Hakko T30 series. I can see many things can go wrong with it, Hakko 936/888 would be better choice, lots of tips, lots of parts fake and genuine.
Avantek RF Amplifier - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EVlab
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2015, 05:22:11 pm
content: Dear all,I'm looking for a X-band RF low noise amplifier. There are several Avantek on eBay without data. I did quiet some search on the web but could not find any datasheet.For example, I'm looking at the following amps:Avantek SFT83-3697Avanpak SFT83-3696Avantek SFT83-3695Can someone give me any info about the amps mentioned above?Does some one have access to a datasheet and/or catalog (I know there is a 1989's catalog on the web, but that's too old)?Best, Simon

author: rfeecs
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2015, 12:46:13 am
content: 1989 wouldn't be too old. Avantek was acquired by HP in 1991. The 1989 catalog on the web shows Avanpak amplifier part numbers started with AFT, not SFT. Many, if not most, of those amplifiers were made to order. In that case, they had a special part number. Very likely those fall into that category, with the part number SFT 83 for the year and the other number assigned sequentially, in which case they won't appear in the catalog. Maybe your best option is to ask the seller.
Experience with Aoyue Int3233 soldering station? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: KoF
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2015, 09:06:52 pm
content: Is there anybody out there with an Aoyue Int3233 station?I would by buy one in addition to my Ersa Analog 60 which I prefer for "smaller" solder points.(Ersa-> small stuff like 0603 || Int3233 -> beefy stuff like power transistors, big inductors, components on power plains and so on)Do I really have to calibrate the soldering tips by my own?Is it possible to store different calibrations for different tips, i don't want to recalibrate every time I have to change a tip?My DMM (BEHA/UNITEST Hexagon 50) has an temperature probe for up to +400°C - is this an adequate "calibration tool" for this task (it doesn't tell anything about tolerances)?THX for your advice

author: Rasz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2015, 09:43:02 pm
content: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ru&u=http://radiokot.ru/lab/otk/kotodromyxlo/05/&prev=search
Anyone have experience with a  clansmen prc-320 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Jesset1996.5
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2015, 06:51:28 pm
content: Im planning on buying a prc-320 brittish man pack radio. Ive herd there quite good but at some point will need the caps replaced due to the age. Anything else i should know before I get one?

author: Dataforensics
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 09, 2015, 07:36:11 pm
content: Might depend on what you want it for. As standard they only have upper sideband, so you would probably need to modify it to use on Amateur radio bands below 7Mhz. There are documented problems with liquid Tantalum capacitors in the psu and synth. As they use a set of knobs to set the frequency you cannot scan without wearing out your fingers.If you want to play with ex military radios they are fine, but there are often other secondhand HF transceivers that are more useful for amateur radio use.

author: Jesset1996.5
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2015, 10:29:37 pm
content: Quote from: Dataforensics on July 09, 2015, 07:36:11 pmi plan on adding the lsb mod and use a reed switch so i dont have to drill any holes.
Tools and Tips from Applied Science YouTube channel - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Winston
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2015, 05:00:51 pm
content: Tools and Tips #1Tools and Tips #2From #1, a great SMD work close-up light:http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20169658/

author: electr_peter
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 30, 2015, 05:42:42 pm
content: Tips about sockets are not that great... Do you want to test unknown socket with POS neon bulb on yourself? Does simple plug-in socket tester detectall problemswith socket wiring?You can do that in desperate times, but it is not a great way to do it.Tip about small drill bit holder is interesting. However, I consider hand-held drill to be too wobbly (by construction and by the user) to be used with such tiny drills without breaking them. On drill press it should work nicely though.Nice tips overall, but keep it to your knowledge level about the subject.

author: Winston
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2015, 05:08:16 pm
content: Quote from: electr_peter on June 30, 2015, 05:42:42 pmI suspect he mentioned that simple, single neon bulb version of an electrical outlet tester for those who don't have a full outlet tester which he also demonstrated. I have a full tester.QuoteAgree. Tiny bits are very difficult to avoid breaking/bending with a large hand drill. That's why I made a homemade PCB drill that can even use brittle carbide PCB drill bits without issues.QuoteI think the meaning of that may have been lost in translation.

author: zapta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2015, 05:17:22 pm
content: That channel has some interesting videos. Like this one. Subscribed. Thanks for posting.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2015, 06:01:48 pm
content: Pin vices are necessary when chucking any small bit in a regular chuck. That means on a lathe, full size drill press or whatever. Certainly can be used in a handheld but not recommended for drilling and entire pcb.
HD72A HDMI Capture Card Review (video) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cpuerror
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2015, 10:16:42 am
content: I thought I would do a review of this card, from a not as gamer-specific point of view:

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2015, 11:17:02 am
content: The Hauppauge you show as a better option towards the end and of course for a higher price, won't bypass HDCP, so you would not be able to capture the PS3 via HDMI, it does however allow you to capture via component video.Also it won't allow you to capture from a blue ray or any other HDCP protected source via HDMI.Also they are a pain to setup, because it transfers the captured video via USB, meaning that it has to buffer the video and the capture is delay by many seconds, and you'll have a mess of wires all around.So I'm pretty impressed with your cheap $50 card.

author: cpuerror
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2015, 01:56:11 pm
content: Its actually designed for the ps3 and other gaming systems, at least according to the ad. So it supports hdcp but blurays may or may not be playable. With the timeleak, blurays are recordable from the ps3. on my bluray player the disc menu will run but the disc will refuse to play the movie with the hd72 connected. It's a moot point though since there are much easier ways to rip blurays. Go DRM.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2015, 05:37:40 pm
content: Some cheap HDMI splitters work out of the box as HDCP strippers. I tore down two that were that way.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/teardown-panlong-hdmi-audio-splitter/https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/teardown-portta-hdmi-splitter/

author: cpuerror
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 04, 2015, 08:11:28 pm
content: Just goes to show that DRM like HDCP is useless other than creating problems for the end user.Quote from: NiHaoMikelink=topic=50231.msg703943#msg703943 date=1435945060
CNC Router software for dummies - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2015, 09:30:29 pm
content: I have an old Roland CAMM-2 PNC-2001A router and would like to see if I can use it to do anything with it. Could you please recommend (free/ware) software for Windows?

author: lincoln
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2015, 11:28:48 pm
content: mach 3

author: Fred27
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 01, 2015, 08:39:24 am
content: What are the connections on it? It might be something proprietary.Simplifying the whole processhugely:To draw something and generate g-code I'd recommend CamBam.G-code is simple, so if you just want to test it by moving the machine in a square you could write it by hand.To take g-code and generate the dir and step pulse to drive a stepper motor I'D recommend Mach3 (or LinuxCNC)You might need a PC with aproperparallel port. Dells are good for this.You'll need a stepper motor driver which might be built in to the machine but might not.

author: akis
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2015, 10:14:13 am
content: Unfortunately the Roland CNC Router was broken with dodgy external wiring between main unit and router so that it did not detect the end run from the microswitch sensors resulting in terrible noises coming out from the stepper motors. In addition the left-right movement's cog wheel is made of plastic and many teeth were mangled and the movement was not all that great eitrher. Finally it does not use an ordinary collet and drill bits but rather a custom/long drill bit around 3mm diameter, in the end it was too much for me and I threw the whole thing out.I did come across Mach3 and Mach4 and I think that's the way to go to work with a CNC router at home.

author: Fred27
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 01, 2015, 01:00:01 pm
content: If it had a plastic gear wheel for one of the axes then it wouldn't be able to mill very much. Just googled and it does look like a very old engraver. Wouldn't be able to do much other than maybe mill wax so you can do casting.
Teardown: Panlong HDMI audio splitter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2015, 04:56:38 am
content: Previously, I did a teardown of a cheap HDMI splitter. Recently, I needed a HDMI audio extractor to debug a HDMI audio issue with a project I was working on. The combined extractors/splitters don't cost very much more than just an extractor, so I bought one.There's a PI3HDMI412AD HDMI active splitter, EP91A1K HDMI processor, EPF021A microcontroller, and CS4344 DAC.While I haven't confirmed it, it looks like it might also work as a HDCP stripper right out of the box, based on my understanding that HDCP is point to point (or at least that's what I read) and that the part that does the splitting is just a dumb buffer. I also managed to "overclock" it to work at 4K, but then the two HDMI chips really started heating up so I didn't leave it running for long.Unlike the plain splitter I tore down earlier, this one forces the input link to retrain if either output is connected/disconnected. It also passes through the EDID from the first display connected. And it does work as a HDMI to S/PDIF or analog audio adapter with no displays connected. Though the link retraining can be an issue as some displays will trigger that on display on/off or even changing inputs. I'll see if there's an easy hack to disable the retraining. I'm thinking of adding a simple circuit to pull up the HPD pin if the link active LED for the port is active, thus masking disconnect events until something else triggers a retrain.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2015, 04:54:06 am
content: I just tested it and just like the other splitter, it did in fact strip HDCP.

author: LDM
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2015, 12:14:11 pm
content: That's a cool little board. Where are you not seeing HDCP? The chip diagram for the EP91A1K shows it being applied to the repeater output.I work with HDMI a lot and am always interested in new toys.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 01, 2015, 04:45:52 am
content: The simple splitting buffer prevents HDCP from working, so they disabled the HDCP on the output. (That's controlled by an I2C register according to the datasheet, and in fact, that's how a similar splitter that does enable the HDCP on the output could be hacked into a HDCP stripper.) I confirmed with a source that requires HDCP and a display that does not support HDCP. With a direct connection, it doesn't display anything at all (expected), but put the splitter in line and it just works.Now I'll see if there's an easy hack around the retraining issue.
JVC RX-6030V Audio/Video Receiver - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: KineticIsEpic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 28, 2015, 12:31:47 am
content: I found this av receiver in the garbage yesterday:It's in pretty good shape, and so far it works like new! Only tiny problem I've found so far is that the vacuum fluorescent screen is a little bit darker in some places then the rest of the screen. I'm not going to tear it apart completely, but I had to take a look inside. Pictures aren't the best and this is my first post here, so bear with me. Without further ado, here we go:Overview of the whole system. The boards in the back, starting from the left, are speaker output (large horizontal board behind transformer), component video (small vertical board above speaker output board), radio antenna in, composite and S-video i/o (also "AV-COMPU LINK III" and "COMPU LINK 4"), DVD 5.1 Audio in + sub out, stereo inputs, and digital in.Here you can see the massive transformer, along with two large caps, probably filtering the input.These are the main amp boards for the 5 channels. You can't see it too well, but each one has a couple transformers attached to the large passive heatsink. The second and third one have a trimpot and a green LED on them. I'm going to guess the order is center channel, front left/right, rear left/right.Here's a glimpse at the backs of some of the riser cards. The one in the bottom-right is the digital in board, and as you can see it's mostly SMT. Didn't get a shot of the board itself, unfortunately.Lastly we have a picture taken from the left side of the unit. You can see the LEDs are on (took this picture while the unit was on!), as well as the text "Cch AMP", most likely indicating that the board is the amp for the center channel.

author: KineticIsEpic
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 28, 2015, 12:42:31 am
content: You're probably right, it has component but no hdmi. Im using it just as a sound system anyway, so it doesn't matter.I do think a remote would have been nice, though. Btw you're on your 1999th post, do us all a favor and don't post again as that might cause nasty bugs with roll-over and whatnot
uCurrent Gold AA Batteries? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: embeddedwesley
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 19, 2015, 11:58:19 pm
content: I just ordered a uCurrent Gold and am rather excited for when it shows up! Should be useful for measuring the sleep mode current draw on a micro controller project I am working on!It says on the product page (http://www.eevblog.com/projects/ucurrent/) that you can use three AAA batteries instead of just a C2032 cell to achieve slightly higher max current ranges in each mode. Is there any reason not to use AA batteries? I did the math and the cost to capacity ratio makes the AA batteries cheaper in the long run compared to the AAA batteries, in terms of how much each battery will cost and how often you will need to purchase new batteries.I can't see any reason not to use three AA batteries in series (other than perhaps it wont fit quite right in the case), but I just wanted to bounce it past the forum for a quick sanity check. Also this way if anyone else has the same question in the future, they will be able to see this post and have their question answered.Thanks in advance!

author: Fsck
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2015, 12:26:58 am
content: you'd need need to make a triangular stack for them to fit in the case.you can use rechargeables if you're worried about cost.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 20, 2015, 12:34:58 am
content: It's a just a case fit issue, if you can fit them, use them.

author: embeddedwesley
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 20, 2015, 12:46:11 am
content: OK awesome, thanks for all the input!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 20, 2015, 07:25:31 am
content: I just use the rest of the case thickness to store spare CR2032 cells, so I can change it quickly if it goes flat ( or I leave it on overnight again), and just use it as is.Gold flash on the sockets though is suffering from fading, thanks to living in the corrosion capital of the world.

author: MLXXXp
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2015, 10:09:10 pm
content: Running the uCurrent at 4.5V will cause the LED to be very bright and will exceed the maximum current specified for the TPS3809 voltage supervisor chip. You may wish to increase the value of the 270 ohm LED dropping resistor, R4.See this message and the next few following ones:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/oshw/current-gold-hw-design-question/msg404617/#msg404617Also, unless you change the TPS3809 to one with a higher sense voltage, you won't be able to trust being able to "achieve slightly higher max current ranges in each mode" if you rely on the LED to indicate low battery.

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2015, 02:18:17 pm
content: He could add a diode at the battery input to provide reverse protection and the voltage drop.
10W/3mW medical laser partial teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mcinque
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 24, 2015, 09:10:23 pm
content: A partial teardown of a made in Italy medical laser equipment, used to treat skin and oral diseases.This is an old model (2006) wich has the laser diode unit cooled directly by water, the newer model has much more power but with a small form factor and it's only air cooled.Not too much interesting I guess, but I'm trying to contribute to this forum
Solar Charge Controller - Override? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2015, 04:28:56 am
content: I recently purchased a Renogy 100W 12V Solar Suitcase (http://www.renogy-store.com/Renogy-100W-12V-Mono-Portable-Solar-Suitcase-p/kit-stcs100d.htm), which contains a VS1024N charge controller. As per the user manual provided on Renogy's website (above) it says that in order for the charge controller to begin sourcing current, it must first detect that it has been connected to a battery with at least 9V.I was hoping to be able to feed this solar panel into a 12V-5V step-down converter for charging USB devices, and was wondering if anyone knows whether or not this limitation can be overridden in the controller, or alternatively, if it only needs to detect >9V when the controller is turned on?

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2015, 05:22:00 am
content: It's a MPPT controller. Measure the voltage before the controller and you can attach a step down converter there.

author: olsenn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2015, 01:05:22 pm
content: It's actually the VS1024BN (not the VS1024N) and a PWM controller (Not a MPPT one).

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2015, 08:12:37 pm
content: I suspect you'll need to use a battery - even if it's just a very small one. The solar charge controllers I'm familiar with all require a voltage source to function.BTW - the included charge controller is just a cheap knock off of a Steca PWM controller
My power supply has 80v on chassis - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mathsquid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2015, 02:47:50 pm
content: I have a 24v mean well power supply that runs a small CNC machine. It was working fine at my old house, but I recently moved. While I was running it for the first time, I got a shock when I touched the chassis. I grabbed my multimeter, and it showed 80v AC between the chassis and earth ground. (It gave essentially the same reading whether I used the wall outlet or a water pipe for ground.)I live in the USA, so I'm plugging it into 110-120 volts. I have it connected to the outlet using a two-prong power cord. My first thought was that I should just use a 3-prong cable, but I'm concerned about running the 80v AC directly to ground. That seems like it would just be a short that would blow a breaker, but I know that AC can be more complicated than that.I disconnected everything from the supply except for the power cord, and tried the following:1. I tried reversing the neutral and live wires in case the outlet was wired incorrectly. The chassis was still showing 80v. I also checked the outlet with a tester, and it was wired correctly.2. I tried using a different outlet in the house. The 80v reading was in the basement. When I went upstairs it went down to about 75v.Anyone have any suggestions?

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2015, 03:02:54 pm
content: Quote from: mathsquid on June 21, 2015, 02:47:50 pmGround it. If it takes out the breaker then it is faulty.It probably has filter capacitors between the line, neutral and ground - these can generate a lot of leakage current. On the other hand, if it is faulty, it needs fixing. Either way, ground it.

author: mathsquid
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2015, 04:03:16 pm
content: Quote from: Andy Watson on June 21, 2015, 03:02:54 pmThanks Andy! Grounding it solved the problem.I'm still puzzled though. I kept the two-prong plug and added a third wire that I ran directly to ground. I put my clamp meter on the ground wire and it showed zero amps AC. Is there no current flowing, or is it just a small amount that my clamp meter doesn't register?

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2015, 04:10:26 pm
content: Very small current, it's just capacitive coupling. Less than a mA.

author: electr_peter
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 21, 2015, 05:15:00 pm
content: Nothing unusual. When not-grounded, 10-90% of mains voltage can be seen on the case due to various AC coupling mechanisms. Available current is low (<0.5-5mA usually). Such effect is also very common on other ungrounded/improperly grounded gear (and/or lower quality items) - DVD players, laptop/tablet chargers, TV sets, sound amplifiers, etc.To solve this issue, do as others said - ground it properly via proper 3 prong cable and properly grounded socket, case voltage will go away.
KitchenAid in Indonesia - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bansoon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 12, 2015, 11:17:06 am
content: i want to purchase KitchenAid Ice Cream Maker Attachment in Indonesia . Can any member of this forum suggest me the Offcial website Of kitchen aid in Indonesia

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 13, 2015, 11:51:26 am
content: This is an electronics forum not a kitchen appliance one.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 13, 2015, 12:20:00 pm
content: We do get occasional threads about appliances though... but those are about repair.

author: bansoon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 15, 2015, 05:45:59 am
content: I am sorry i was confused .i will not post related to kitchen appliances in future

author: ivan747
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 16, 2015, 03:30:04 am
content: If you ever need help with fixing electric or electronic things, you are welcome to ask here.Maybe ask on an Indonesian forum of some kind? Or twitter or facebook?
I am in a need of a Software that is equivalent to the one in the link. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: zarnold16
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 12:33:44 am
content: Hi I was wondering if anyone knows a mac program that does the same stuff as this iPhone app?https://itunes.apple.com/app/apple-store/id339158729?mt=8I also want this program to be free!

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 01:28:07 am
content: Nice thread title.

author: zarnold16
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 01:30:51 am
content: Quote from: rx8pilot on June 17, 2015, 01:28:07 amThanks

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 02:26:33 am
content: Answer

author: zarnold16
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 02:41:04 am
content: Quote from: Skimask on June 17, 2015, 02:26:33 amFine I changed the subject.

author: Skimask
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 02:42:10 am
content: So, now you want people to click on some random link.Ya...I will get right on that.

author: rx8pilot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 03:00:15 am
content: This thread is have a tough start.May I suggest providing information? What are you asking? What are you talking about?

author: zarnold16
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 03:18:44 am
content: I want an mac application that does that same as that app for the iPhone. I dont want to have all the calculators in the internet. I really don't know what to ask.Quote from: rx8pilot on June 17, 2015, 03:00:15 am

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 03:54:39 am
content: Quote from: zarnold16 on June 17, 2015, 02:41:04 amReally?But, OK, to be helpful: Try contacting the app maker. I know he did have plans to make an OSX version, but I don't know how far he got or if he's still planning that.

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 17, 2015, 04:45:43 am
content: Quote from: zarnold16 on June 17, 2015, 12:33:44 amSo you want a free PC version of a $7 iPhone app?
Tektronix 011-0049-01 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Docholiday
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2015, 06:13:12 pm
content: I found someone that has three of these and will only sell as a set of three. I need two others to buy in. Any takers? They are $60 dollars US. These are Tektronix, the real deal!I will purchase and send to you. You will need topay me by paypal plus shipping.He will charge me $60 each plus $5 dollars handling and 3% credit card.Thanks,Nicholas
Boost/Buck converter for Dual battery charging system  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gobo207
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 15, 2015, 09:17:25 am
content: G'day all,I've recently installed a second battery in my car for camping and have been looking at different commercial charging methodshttp://www.redarc.com.au/products/product/smart-start-bcdc/. I thought as a nice project I could build a DC-DC charger for it.I have a question regarding DC-DC chargers though. I'm basically looking for a RF friendly boost converter that could throw at least 5A into a sealed lead acid battery from as little as 11v. Preferably one that I could control the charging currents and voltages through a micro controller or the package does it itself.Does anyone have any ideas?Thanks!
EBAY Soldering Iron Station Temperature Controller T12 Handle Circuit Board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: paulc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2015, 11:26:44 am
content: Can someone explain the operation of the control circuit?LINK:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Soldering-Iron-Station-Temperature-Controller-T12-Handle-Circuit-Board/171716942087?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31238%26meid%3De227fb723277453d97fd074dff920746%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D10%26mehot%3Des%26sd%3D221791660204On the page there is a circuit diagram.ThanksPaul

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2015, 02:04:54 pm
content: lm358 has big input offset - would not use.

author: paulc
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 10, 2015, 02:33:49 pm
content: I need the explanation of the circuit assuming a zero offset op-amp, then I will look at the offset.Paul

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 10, 2015, 02:34:19 pm
content: Here is a review on a different T12 controller:It doesn't seem like any of these units are worth anything.
My teardown of the Xbox 360  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cpuerror
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 10:21:18 am
content: Check out my other videos as well and subscribe!!

author: Jorpy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2015, 02:59:38 pm
content: It does not have wi-fi. The wireless stuff on the front panel pcb is the wireless interface for the controllers

author: cpuerror
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2015, 04:45:25 pm
content: I forgot that it had wireless controllers!
Amprobe AM-530 a Peek under it's skirt - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Bobpriv
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 04, 2015, 03:15:13 am
content: Here are some photos of an AM-530 which I just received a few days ago from Amazon. Price $56.

author: Bobpriv
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 04, 2015, 03:18:07 am
content: The rest of the pics

author: Bobpriv
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 04, 2015, 03:22:10 am
content: Notice on the last photo, that the hole for the battery compartment screw has a brass insert unlike the AM520 as shown in previous posted photos of that model.However, there are no brass inserts on the two body screws on the bottom of the AM-530. These are self-tappers.You also can see the deep channel around the outer edge of the case. The top has a lip that fits about 1/4 inch (6.25mm) down into this channel. totally surrounding the body.BTW, the manual is supplied only on CD. The only printed material is a "safety" leaflet.
12V LED power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kcs
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2015, 03:24:54 pm
content: I am looking for a 12V switching mode power supply rated for 50-60W. It will be used for LED lighting. There is one that I can easily buy at a local store -Mean Well LPV-60-12. Or I could order one from Mouser, but that would be more complicated and I would probably get no warranty.Two questions:1. Are Mean Well power supplies considered as good ones in general? Has anyone tried this particular model and can recommend (or not recommend) it?2. Is there anything considerably better than LPV-60-12 in this list (I have picked a a few power supplies from Mouser that matches my criteria)? TDK-Lambda, Delta Electronics and RECOM kind of looks as being better built.Quote

author: GoneTomorrow
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 04, 2015, 12:45:32 am
content: Mean Well is a good brand, despite the name.
Nano Dimension Multi layer Prototype printer .... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: kaz911
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 03, 2015, 10:37:51 am
content: Have anyone seen this one? Not for home use though but looks cool if they get it to workhttp://www.nano-di.com/So true multi layer - eats gerbers and spits out true multi layer proto-type prints - with conductivity like copper - and does blind/buried via's.The printer prints ca. 80-100 µm traces, ca. 150 µm interconnections, and a minimum layer thickness of 3 µms.Max print size 20x20 cmA large10layer board can take multiple hours to printEarly deliveries for pre-orders 2016... Price not for home users *G*
Wall warts and Barrel jacks - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2015, 07:10:31 am
content: Do any of you guys have a recommended supplier for wall warts? I have one in particular I need to replace, but I'd rather it wasn't total crap; it'll be on 24/7.I did replace a couple of caps in the original one, but that obviously wasn't the only problem. Maybe I'll get back to it, but a replacement will probably be cheaper than fixing it anyway.While I'm here, what power connectors have you guys settled on for your projects? Aside from USB, I'm thinking barrel jacks aren't all bad. If you use them, what size did you decide on?

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 24, 2015, 07:34:48 am
content: 2.1mm jacks are what I use and I get wall warts from a local security camera company. They last very well. I'm from Canada so not much use but the 2.1mm barrels are by far the most common. I'm using it on all my new stuff.

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 24, 2015, 12:07:10 pm
content: Quote from: mojo-chan on May 24, 2015, 12:02:38 pmCorrect. I only mentioned it because it's absolutely the way to go for 5V

author: Muxr
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 05:33:47 am
content: I have the same question as well, also need 5V 1A, barrel or USB jack but USB jack is prefered. Will check Digikey, but a little cheaper would be nice, without compromising too much quality/safety.edit: hmm, these seem alright:http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PSA05A-050QA-H/993-1255-ND/4571898.But you're right $8.5 a piece when you add a decent length cable and the connector to the mix.

author: mdronic
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 05:45:29 am
content: I get wall warts from radio parts in Melbourne. If you get multiple s of the same item (tc) you can get a discount or price break, Sometimes up to half. If you get over $100 I think in metro area free delivery. ? Also get discount if you get trade card I think you just have to spend a certain amount in a year but ask. I've never had a problem with them.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2015, 03:08:51 am
content: Fry's had a 10 for $3 deal, but it's over now. I suspect it was a marketing stunt to pull in customers.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/teardown-$0-30-usb-power-supply-at-fry%27s/BTW, the Fry's I bought the adapters from had lots available on the third day of the week long special. Not surprising when it is pretty far from the city center, though it was fairly close to my route to work which is partly why I decided to make a stop there.

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2015, 03:21:44 am
content: We use the Mean Well units a lot and have had virtually no issues with them. Way better than the ones we were buying from WES.As for the barrel jack size, we use 2.1mm size and that's what a lot of the Mean Well units have by default.
How-to : High-current multiphase DC-DC voltage adjustment using RPi - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TiN
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 29, 2015, 04:16:45 am
content: Somebody asked me, how to adjust voltage on digitally controlled sync buck power module, such as EPOWER, so I bodged quick article.Also since controller accepts controls from PMBus, I attached Raspberry Pi and used it's I2C to set voltage and read telemetry data.Module specs:* Single voltage output, range 0.6 to 2.0 VDC, current up to 500A* Direct exposed PCB plane for lowest resistance connection to load (soldering)* +12V input compatible with modern standard ATX PSU (3 x 6pin MiniFit JR used for powering VGA cards)* Onboard VID switch* Remote sensing port for 4-wire connections* Fan header for standard PC fan* Digital port for telemetry/control* Compact formfactorDetails inthis articlefor those who interested.P.S. Unit costs 59€ on vendor website, that's less than most of DC-DC demo boards
Rigol DS1000Z screen capture - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Finder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 02:27:09 pm
content: Hi, I made a Windows screen capture software for Rigol DS1000Z and MSO1000Z series scopes. It uses ethernet connection to download the data using SCPI commands so it doesn't require any drivers.Link to my website and the softwarefindersee.fi. Hope someone else finds it useful also, any feedback is appreciated.EDIT.This is probably not the best place for this. Was suppose to be in the projects

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 05:49:23 pm
content: Nice, seems you are basing it on the python script that bingo found in hackaday:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-rigol-ds1054z-oscilloscope/msg675845/#msg675845How fast is the capture? The hackaday code takes 18 seconds per screen capture.Are you planning to release the code?I did modify the script to work on the DS2000 (no telnet support) using vxi11 by fellow forum member Alex Forencich and by changing the MTU I was able to reduce the capture time to 4 seconds.It could be modified to support both (terminator length is 2 on DS2000 and 4 i think on DS1000) and changing the "DS2" comparison to account for both models would be easy.Here is the link to the DS2000 modified script:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/python-based-instrument-control/msg676772/#msg676772

author: Finder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 08:00:53 pm
content: Yes I am basing it on the python script, but I'm not using pure tcp socket for the communication. The capture time varies a bit fastest I gotten is about 9 seconds and the slowest is 14. The timing could probably be improved by refining the stream to image algorithm. I am planning to release the code once I get the csv capture done and I clean the code a bit.Your 4 seconds seems really impressive. I will have to see how close I can get mine after optimization.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 08:32:25 pm
content: Use wireshark and check the packets to see if they go above 1514 bytes, maybe there is a way to set the telnet library you are using to get the right size. In my case it was 1420 data + the Ethernet, IP, TCP, RCP and VXI-11 protocols overhead.Raw Telnet doesn't have the RCP and VXI-11 overhead but it does add options on the TCP layer so you have about 66 bytes overhead so the maximum data size should be 1448So if you can change that it should speed up your capture.

author: Finder
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 09:14:11 pm
content: Well wireshark tells me the data I have is 1460 bytes so I don't think it can be improved too much. And like I said before I'm not using any telnet library its direct tcp socket with C#.

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 28, 2015, 09:50:05 pm
content: Just for giggles, reduce your read size to 1420 bytes at a time and see if it's faster, I think you probably can push it to 1448 read size.
Teardown of a red light traffic enforcement camera - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dexters_lab
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 03:44:50 pm
content: I picked up a Robot Foto TraffiPhot III-G which is a 'red light' traffic enforcement camera a few weeks ago and just did a basic teardown on it. It's an older type dating from the mid 1990s that used a large 35mm film cartridge.Operationally they are installed normally in roadside boxes on a pole, very similar to speed cameras but are linked into traffic lights and inductive loops for triggering.There wasn't much that was particularly of note inside, i guess they are just a flash on a timer but it's certainly well put together. The most complex part was the board to process the signal from the inductive loops that would be set into the road.For some reason i wasn't able to get the camera to trigger, the flash works fine... there is a separate test for it but the camera refused to do anything even in the service mode which seemed contrary to the user guide i found, but that's in Italian so maybe i am missing something.The camera assembly i am going to take apart in a separate video which seems to have exposure control and some tech to imprint data onto the picture.I have romdumps of all but one of the memory devices, probably best not to post them up here though they will be copyrighted.If anyone has any additional information i would be interested to know.
Hand-held ultrasonic metal welder - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: elektrinis
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2015, 12:11:01 pm
content: Hello,I am looking for hand-held utrasonic welder to bond 0.5mm aluminum wire to larger copper part. Basically what I need is similar to bond wire machines used for chip making, but hand held and for much larger wire. I would like to attach it to CNC machine at some point, but for now, only hand-held solution is needed. I have searched for couple of days and found many plastic welders, such as:However nothing similar for metal, only large and expensive stationary machines. Turns out, horizontal vibrations used for plastic, and vertical for metal. But no other difference I saw so far.Any suggestions?
Breadboard Power Supplys *Warning?* - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 18, 2015, 03:55:54 am
content: So today, I revived two new breadboard power supply's, and yes I know. I got them off eBay, still please. Please also see attached photo, sorry its not the sunniest place in my flat.Now the unit on the left, is one that I have had for a long time and use with my breadboard Arduino, its good, I have a few for other projects. But I found it a little bulky, the unit its self takes up a far amount of a breadboard, but nun the less, I being myself still have not managed to let out the magic smoke, on one of these units.I also like the power switch and diode it hosts.The until on the right, however. This one sits on the bottom of a breadboard, only the right side can provide other or 3.3v/5v while the left side is a fixed 5v output. This one lacks a power switch and a diode, however seems to host a reset-able fuse.Despite it being low profile, I managed to let out the magic smoke, while probing it with a multimeter.---Over all, I must admit I am going to stick with the unit on the left, after all as I have said, I still haven't managed to kill one, unlike the one on the right (red) which didn't seem to like getting probed.

author: The Doktor
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2015, 01:28:03 am
content: I've got several of the unit on the left, never had a problem, even when there was some abuse. Was powering a ESP8266 with 1 of these supplies (running off 12V wall wart) and managed to damage the 8266 (due to external problem, not power). Didn't realize what had happened, just couldn't connect to 8266 or BT module on same board. Noticed little power supply module was rather warm. Testing showed 8266 was holding 3.3V rail below 2V, obviously overloading this cheap PS module. Replaced 8266 and all was good, module survived

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2015, 01:34:40 am
content: Quote from: The Doktor on May 21, 2015, 01:28:03 amMaybe, once I have a better understanding, I can create one with 3.3v, 5v, 6v, 9v and 12v output.It still dose shock me, how rugged those power supply's are on the left, despite being made in cheap china ( and I mean the cheap factory's and not the upmarket ones)