What Zener/Fuse do I need (Arduino Project) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2015, 06:52:44 am
content: So for me, I am trying to build a Breadboard Arduino Project, right now however I am stuck on three components, I require for the USB to serial bridge found on the Uno and Mega or a standalone device the freetronices USBserial.I'll link the PDF schematic:Arduino Uno:https://www.arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/Arduino_Uno_Rev3-schematic.pdfFreetronics USB to Serial:https://github.com/freetronics/USBSerialOkay, so what I am focusing on is between the USB port and the ATmega16U2, the list of components are Z1, Z2, R4, R5 and F1, which on the parts list are:Z1 PGB1010603Z2 PGB1010603R4 22RR5 22RF1 500mA PTC 1812And an L1 0805 INDUCTORSo what I am looking for is through-hole versions of Z1/2 (as I understand the Z1 and 2 are just zener diodes, the question is, which one?), and the Fuse. The resistors are pretty easy for me and the inductor, I have no clue on that one.So if someone could tell me, what through-hole components would a appropriate, I would be grateful.Please understand, yes I have looked up the datasheets and they only confused me.

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2015, 07:06:58 am
content: Is there some particular reason you are doing this the hard way?A USB-UART like the CP2102 modules are available cheaply, just connect TX on the module to RX on your AVR, and vice-versa (and ground of course :-)). Job done (effectively you're creating an Arduino Pro-Mini on your breadboard in such a case if you want to follow a schematic).In any case, the components Z1/2 are not zeners, they are transient suppressors (ESD suppression), think of them like two zeners back to back. I doubt you really need them (or L1) at all for your purposes.

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2015, 07:26:10 am
content: Quote from: sleemanj on July 23, 2015, 07:06:58 amThe grand master plan is to have two 840 breadboards side by side, with a ATmega16U2 and ATmega328p. So something more like an ultimate breadboard Arduino.I took a guess after looking at a USBASP.

author: retrolefty
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2015, 11:49:10 am
content: I really think you are making your project more work then it needs to. For your desire to have a dual breadboard arduino platform just buy two inexpensive arduino nano clones and be done with that part of the project. They can plug directly plug into a solderless breadboard and you have the choice of programming them via USB or via ICSP with a suitable programmer. This lets you move on a lot quicker to actually building real applications/projects. You can't build cheaper and quicker then the nano modules and won't learn all the much trying to. Best to move on to writing code and wiring up your specific projects where you will learn lots.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-USB-Nano-V3-0-ATmega328P-for-Arduino-Microcontroller-for-RC-or-Robot-/221658808204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339be4ff8c

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2015, 09:11:00 pm
content: Quote from: retrolefty on July 23, 2015, 11:49:10 amI have three or four of those I ordered from china and they where about $5 each, right now along with the mins and the Arduino Protosnap, have been played with and kept in a box.This is one of those, I'd like to give it a try projects.

author: MarkM
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 23, 2015, 09:40:15 pm
content: Wouldn't you still need to burn the bootloader first to upload sketches over serial anyways? I would use a programmer and link the two µC's via serial instead if that's what you're trying to do. I might be missing something.

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2015, 07:21:52 am
content: Quote from: MarkM on July 23, 2015, 09:40:15 pmWell, your missing the fact that I asked about the components between the USB port and the ATmega16U2.What you are missing is that I have soldered the SMD ATmega16U2 IC, onto a breakout board and with my ARVISP Mk2 I got from Element 14 were able to read the device signature.Now because I feel it would be best to use the same firmware as the Freetronics USB to Serial (which is the same as the Arduino Uno/Mega) has aDFU jumperthat allows for self/reprogramming/updating from USB. If all else fails,http://forum.freetronics.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=5519#p10888that or I just use my AVRMK2, so mem.So right now, what I need to know is, what through-hole fuse I could use and a through-hole option for the z1 and z2. Even if I do it without the Z1 and 2, I really would prefer adding a fuse to the breadboard project.

author: Hideki
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2015, 10:43:33 pm
content: Quote from: mictas on July 24, 2015, 07:21:52 amFor the fuse, any of thesehttp://au.mouser.com/Circuit-Protection/Thermistors/Resettable-Fuses-PPTC/_/N-axfytZscv7?P=1z0x8ffZ1z0z63x&Ns=Pricing|0Z1 and Z2 are NOT zener diodes, they are PulseGuard ESD Suppressors from Littelfuse. While many alternatives exist, it may be hard to find any in a through-hole packaging with low enough capacitance. TVS diodes like P4KE6.8C don't even have a specified capacitance. Why is capacitance important? Because too much of it will slow down the usb data signal edges.Just take the next step and slowly move away from through-hole parts

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2015, 11:07:13 pm
content: For a breadboard, you don't need any of those parts. Why drive yourself nuts to protect a $1 IC

author: retrolefty
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2015, 11:20:49 pm
content: Quote from: edavid on July 24, 2015, 11:07:13 pmI agree. no matter what you try and include you will still find a way to fry something sometime.However for those that really are into bullet proof protection design examples you might want to check out the stuff on ruggedcircuits. They have been selling a 'ruggized arduino' for many years. Cost more but for those that think they need it or want it, check it out.http://www.ruggedcircuits.com/ruggeduino/http://static1.squarespace.com/static/529a48e1e4b09eb80191621d/t/529b7dd3e4b0c971f8fa4dcb/1385922003469/am010.pdfPersonnally I'll just continue using Arduino cloned $4 pro micros or $8 nano they are almost expendable at those prices.

author: LukeW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2015, 11:13:42 am
content: Realistically, today, you just can't find through-hole versions of every modern component, so you need to learn, to some extent, to ditch the "no SMD at all" ideology.

author: mictas
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2015, 12:25:45 pm
content: Quote from: LukeW on July 25, 2015, 11:13:42 amThat or jerry-rig SMD components with two header pins.