hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Tina design software - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: JohnnyP
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2015, 08:44:02 pm
content: I'm looking for an "assembly to flowchart converter". I scanned the web and found Tina. It looks like it would do what I want, so I downloaded the demo version. In the drop down menu for MCU's, all they have are Pic, Atmel, and 8051. No Freescale.Does the pay version support 9S08?

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2015, 08:48:24 pm
content: Wouldn't it be faster and more accurate to ask Tina that question? Don't they list devices it supports?

author: JohnnyP
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2015, 09:18:22 pm
content: I just found this quick start manual for the previous version:https://www.scribd.com/doc/66818743/53/Using-the-Flowchart-Editor-and-Debugger-in-TINApage 11 shows support for HCS, but I didn't see it in the demo version.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2015, 09:50:58 pm
content: This looks like flowchart to assembly. The reverse would be useful too.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2015, 11:01:56 pm
content: yeah asking in the wrong forum. last time i recommended "TINA"-ti spice, its free and a good simulator, then i got slammed nobody cares they still prefer archaic PSpice, how ironic.

author: JohnnyP
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 11, 2015, 11:26:55 pm
content: My piggy bank is on empty this month. Maybe spring for it later.

author: TerminalJack505
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2015, 12:34:03 am
content: If anyone is considering buying Tina then be aware that you can save some dough on certain editions of the software by 'upgrading' from Tina-TI. Tina-TI is free software so the savings are pretty much for free.Here'sa link. It takes you to the main page of Tina but you'll notice there is some red text that has a link to "upgrade from TINA-TI to the full version of TINA 10 with free TINACloud access at discount prices."I use Tina-TI quite a bit and the software is good enough that I've considered upgrading to the full version but I haven't bit the bullet yet.
Tindie has some great stuff on it! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jarrodhroberson
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 07:11:34 pm
content: These look interesting!https://www.tindie.com/products/ddebeer/5v-1a-switch-mode-voltage-regulator-40v-input/https://www.tindie.com/products/ddebeer/33v-1a-switch-mode-voltage-regulator/

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2015, 08:10:42 pm
content: Haven't looked at Tindie much in general, but you can get similar drop-in 7805 switchers from Recom, Murata, and the like. They're about the same price, slightly more compact, and come with proper datasheets.
Tinned wires in spring terminals - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2021, 08:48:13 pm
content: I have been taught that tinned wires in screw terminals or crimp terminals are a bad idea because the solder will cold flow under pressure making a bad connection. But what about spring terminals? My understanding is that as long as any remaining flux is cleaned from the wire, the solder cold flowing will actually help it to conform to the contact surfaces in the connector and the spring will maintain the pressure so it continues making good contact. Is that correct?

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 05, 2021, 09:40:51 pm
content: Tinned wire is generally a no-go.You've already mentioned cold flow.Another is, that the wires tend to break in the transition zone between tinned/untinned.Use crimp ferrules, that always works.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2021, 12:08:12 am
content: Tinned how? Stranded tin-plated, or the whole thing has been dipped in solder or something, or just the ends done up?Seems like I only ever saw the fused stuff in old equipment, maybe they dropped it for a reason.Plated, loose strands are fine in whatever.Soldered ends in springs, I don't see why not, just the issue noted: it's a stress raiser.Mind that conformation to the spring, may be a false economy: at idle it fits tightly, but under just a little vibration (and there's a lot of leverage on the tinned section due to its stiffness), it'll skew in the spring clamp and suddenly the contact area is much less. It should still make contact, I think I would be surprised if it's a problem for signals but under power loads (some amperes) maybe it's not such a good idea. Or maybe solder will contact-melt under such conditions and it's really not much of a problem (it solves itself within some tens of milliseconds say)? Dunno.There's also fretting corrosion, which I guess shouldn't be a problem for most any solder in brass or tin-plated contacts, but discourages gold-plated contacts.In other situations, I've seen solder give just absolutely terrible contacts, like I made a single-AA flashlight a long while ago, using a solder bump for the negative contact (a spring for positive). It has no end of a cruddy connection, easily seen by shaking or rolling around the battery. It must be something like, the solder is so soft, it rubs off easily, and the particles get stuck in the gap, increasing resistance considerably (and this is at voltages and currents where it's not really going to start any nonlinear processes like point remelting or something). Probably aggravated by skin oils or whatever, making a colloidal suspension perhaps (it doesn't take much, a fingerprint amounts to a microns-think film of oil).But that should be avoided by the higher contact pressure -- those terminals use a shearing sort of joint and stiffer springs than my flashlight thingy.Tim
Tinning copper braid with creep control - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2018, 04:56:17 pm
content: I want to connect the upper and lower copper jaws on a set of jump starter cables and would like to know what is the best way to solder part of the copper braid that would then be drilled and fixed to the clamp body with a screw.Problem with soldering copper braid is that it is also used to desolder due to the capillary action so it sucks up solder uncontrollably and the I can't bend the piece to fit the mouth of the clamp.My guess is i need to dip the part I don't want to tin in some liquid/gel to prevent solder from creeping up the wire.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2018, 05:01:35 pm
content: Is it possible to put some kind of clamp-on heatsink both sides of the solder area? A C-clamp might work or maybe a pair (or two) of Vise-Grips.

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2018, 05:29:11 pm
content: Quote from: rstofer on March 04, 2018, 05:01:35 pmsure, would that prevent the solder from creeping up the cable?

author: ahbushnell
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2018, 05:36:47 pm
content: Quote from: drummerdimitri on March 04, 2018, 05:29:11 pmIt acts as a heat sink so it should help. let us know.

author: drummerdimitri
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2018, 09:47:57 pm
content: Not sure why I didn't think of doing that in the first place:palm:Worked perfectly with a Vice grip locking pliers!

author: ahbushnell
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 02:46:13 am
content: Oh cool.

author: mikerj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 10:35:57 am
content: The obvious solution is to avoid soldering completely and use tube crimps to terminate each end, since you are bolting them to the clamps anyway.
Tiny 3-4 pin connectors and cable ready available  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ddavidebor
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 05, 2022, 01:38:25 pm
content: Hello everyone,Do you have any suggestions for tiny (3mm max width) 3-4 pin connectors and cables, where the cables are readily available in the market (cheaply) in around 25-50cm lenghts?If I needed 2 pins I would use u.fl connectors, but I need at least 3!

author: TC
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2022, 12:33:01 am
content: JST SH connectors are pretty small. 1mm pitch I think. You can buy pre-crimped wires which you insert into the connector shell to make a cable.

author: dave_k
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2022, 10:09:08 am
content: Molex PicoBlade series .. small connectors and pre-made cables available

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 06, 2022, 02:12:49 pm
content: Look for the ever popular and ecconomical JST (and similar knock off) products connectors and leads.https://www.jst.co.uk

author: jonpaul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2022, 11:39:31 am
content: Check Hirose, Lemo, huge range.
Tiny 5 or 6-pin alternative to TagConnect / Skedd / Soic-bite for PICKit3 link - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: microvia
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: December 14, 2024, 08:45:17 am
content: Hi,I need to find a tiny connector to program the MPU of pcbs I'm producing using a PICKit3.Although the pcbs come with the chips pre-programmed, I want this option to eventually update the firmware.Due to space restrictions, the connector must be plugged onto the pcb (like with pogo pins) or insert through it.TagConnect 2030-PKT-NL will be the default option if there's nothing significantly cheaper.I thought about several options but didn't find anything that fits the needs :- Soic-bite isn't reliable enough and my pcb is too thin for it,- Skedd takes too much space (otherwise I'd have used it),- A custom pogo gig isn't possible as the pcbs are arranged in panels.The only other option I'm thinking of is a simple 1.27mm-pitch (or 1mm-pitch) single-row connector.If you have faced the same problem, what solution did you choose ?Thanks for your help.
Tiny binoc transformer: are these leads brazed or welded? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2024, 02:56:28 am
content: Purely out of curiosity, I don't have a use case.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004328159356.htmlIf they're brazed then it's very subtle. Perhaps they're vibration welded? It looks like they've been squished but I can't see that alone being a strong enough bond.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2024, 03:07:12 am
content: It might be ultrasonic welding from the flattening of the ends.

author: Whales
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2024, 04:35:16 am
content: Woah I need an excuse to use this.Cross section at the end of this one (1:02) is nice:
Tiny Blinky Project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: purfield
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2025, 12:18:22 am
content: Hi everyone, I just wanted to share my simple project: a tiny blinky led!I've designed a "large" version and a "small" version. I've successfully built and tested the large version, and I'm currently working on building the small version. I'm having a bit of trouble soldering the wires for programming, as it's a bit of a delicate process. I'm considering making a version with a tag-connect header that I can cut off after programming, or figure out some way to pre-program the chip before soldering.https://hackaday.io/project/202675-worlds-smallest-blinky-ledI also got a shout out on the Hackaday podcast!

author: UnijunctionTransistor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2025, 01:09:14 am
content: I am awed!With those hand coordination skills, you could be a neurosurgeon.

author: PCB.Wiz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2025, 02:52:06 am
content: Quote from: purfield on March 25, 2025, 12:18:22 amA break off header is a common approach, and you could also look at plated edges for 2nd time program, after the larger header is removed.I see you can now get RGB LEDs down to 1mm x 1mm, so you could do a 3 way flasher.
Tiny Gauss Meter On The Cheap? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ssashton
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2022, 05:43:52 pm
content: Hi,My friend designs speakers for 3D printing, everything from the speaker cassis to the cone is 3D printed and he designs his own magnet motors.He would like to measure magnetic field strength inside the voice coil gap which is very narrow around 1-2mm and field strength is high, around 2 Tesla and more.I just wondered if anybody had a smart idea how to achieve this, on the cheap?My thought was a hall sensor and an arduino but this is not my area of knowledge so I do not know common parts or their limits etc..Thanks!Oh you can see his workhereit is really quite impressive, recent driver had THD around -40dB, hot on the heals of commercial designs! One of his old designs was tried out on Toms3D youtube channel -https://youtu.be/nux47f92pf4

author: RoGeorge
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2022, 05:58:11 pm
content: On the cheap? With a piece of wire and an oscilloscope:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/measure-a-magnets-b-field-with-a-rigol-ds1054z-oscilloscope-and-a-piece-of-wire/(sorry for the shameless plug)
Tiny / Little logic "4066" up to 10V? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: 741
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2024, 02:11:46 pm
content: I'm looking for something like a SOT23 single-gate 4066.So (on Farnell) I've found parts that are either very long lead-time or only work up to 5V.Supply: 9VInput Low: ~= 0VInput High: ~= 9VOutput = Input UNLESS disabled (hi-Z).

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2024, 02:33:51 pm
content: The DG467 would be a candidate , but I have no checked availabilty.

author: moffy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2024, 03:14:22 pm
content: This is a search at Digikey for a relevant switch:https://www.digikey.com.au/en/products/filter/interface/analog-switches-multiplexers-demultiplexers/747?s=N4IgjCBcpgbFoDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbRABYAGAVnIGYAOEAq2uiFm%2B65kAJnIBOMNR4E%2BsAOx1JkkAF0CABwAuUEAGUVAJwCWAOwDmIAL4Ewg6vGghkkdNnxFSIWGAlzzsBoPq84PuRiIJLkYJIS-t6%2BTF4%2BtFHxnuB0lBJ0-nR8fGCUmeQMQvkMosWwgsURleS8fGmyeeL1DBlNfJIMyXXtgo389b7%2BoWAttXyddWOddDVNDLB0FXOw5LP989R9dfMrtZTzkvDLPrVCqbH8Z2Acl4LsS7dZFwJ3Mqd3fuJnQQrKapCaHQGYxmfqDGx2By4AjESBkCCKECqdQASX0Khwhhw2lMBAAtHwELYoDoAK5OWFkHjyEy0oAThe 74HC1G66 is only $0.62 AUD available in singles, in stock and works up to 10V.

author: PCB.Wiz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 09, 2024, 07:08:40 pm
content: Quote from: 741 on March 09, 2024, 02:11:46 pmROHMs BU4S66G2 is 18V 4066 in single gate SOT25 packagehttps://fscdn.rohm.com/en/products/databook/datasheet/ic/logic_switch/standard_logic/bu4s66g2-e.pdf

author: 741
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2024, 04:18:59 pm
content: Thanks one and all.It seems there are several categories eg Multiplexer, Transmission Gate, Analog Switch.
Tiny project: temp sensor. Step 1 - add wifi - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Moriambar
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 15, 2023, 07:39:26 am
content: Hi there,I'm trying to create a very small project: a temperature sensor based on a DS18B20 model.DISCLAIMERkind of a beginner here/DISCLAIMERI currently have the sensor and the code, but what I'd like to do is add wifi to it. The idea is "simple": everything should be asleep (it'll be battery powered, but that's a "step 2"), unless I try and "poke" in some way to the board via wifi obtaining the temperature read.Originally I thought about using an ESP32 board but it seems to me some kind of a waste: a fully fledged board just to read a temp sensor (which I can do via a simple ATTINY85) is overkill.So my question is: is there a way to "attach wifi" to an attiny in order to be able to:wake it from sleepread sensor valuebe power efficientwithout wasting and entire esp32?Just adding wifi is a piece of the puzzle, then interrogating the board, of course, is another story and, having never worked with wifi project, I don't have a clue on where to start.I appreciate everything you can come up with (even pointers, tutorials, etc.).Cheers.

author: DavidAlfa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2023, 07:51:30 am
content: Skip the attiny completely, any wifi soc can handle that.A cheap esp8266 for example.

author: liaifat85
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2023, 11:18:37 am
content: You can use ESP-01 instead. It is cheaper.https://www.theengineeringprojects.com/2019/05/introduction-to-esp-01.htmlAnd smaller of course.

author: Moriambar
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 15, 2023, 01:34:00 pm
content: Thanks, I'll try and go with an esp-01
Tiny SA ultra 100KHz to 5.3GHz question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: CaptDon
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2024, 06:45:52 pm
content: Has anyone here used the Tiny SA Ultra? What do you think of it? For around $120 U.S.D. is it a toy or a tool? I need to do some investigating around 1.44GHz and none of my current bench equipment goes above 500MHz. Thanks!!

author: selcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2024, 09:59:17 pm
content: It is very useful. I captured the signals on the image to compare two logic families for their EMI performance. I believe you get similar results with a more expensive equipment. I use it for 2.4GHz to check BLE antennas as well. You can use far field antennas, near field probes, current probes etc.It is a little bit slow. But fast enough for that price. And if the measured signal is less than 800MHz, I recommend to limit the upper band with 800MHz. That is the normal mode. Ultra mode is activated when the range includes 801MHz and up. This ultra mode shows some fake signals on some frequencies. I don't know the solution yet. But when you narrow down the range, they disappear. So you can differentiate them from real signals.
Tiny tiny MCU project, to hide/fit in a ring - some advice and ideas - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mabs
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 06, 2015, 07:23:09 am
content: Hi, this is my first post here, I've been watching the show for a while now and had an electronics question bouncing around in my head and I thought here would be the best place to ask.Last year I had this awesome idea to make a pair of wedding rings that had MCU's in them, and when they came close, or in contact I could make something happen (like flash an LED or similar). I let it go due to lack of time and I didn't think the laws of physics would quite permit it.But recently I have been thinking about it again and I looked into MCUs, the ATtiny10 or ATtiny20 could be potential platforms, and for power, maybe an energy harvesting chip (is there one small enough?) and putting an antenna loop in the ring (or making the ring itself the loop) and harvesting all the energy floating around a mobile phone (like NFC, WiFi & Bluetooth). The ring itself could be 3D printed in silver from shapeways.So what I am asking for is, does anyone have experience or ideas with projects on this scale? I want it to be inconspicuous, I have seen plenty of ring projects that stick out like a sore thumb. What about a display? I imagine that an LED might want to much power, what about a millimetre sized LCD or epaper? Alternative power sources? What about building a circuit that small? Maybe it doesn't need to be proximity, even something like a Bluetooth beacon that has a short message.This doesn't need to be a "this week" project, it is very ambitious and is probably going to a lateral thinking exercise, and I don't mind waiting for technology to move further, if it happens in 10 years, then that's when it happens.

author: Fred27
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 06, 2015, 10:30:20 am
content: The passive side of things should be OK - look at things like theNFC ringfor inspiration. The active side of things would require power so be bulkier. If it was wedding rings then you'd have to give your wife the small passive one and keep the big one with the battery up your sleeve for yourself!

author: jeremy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2015, 12:14:34 pm
content: If we don't think about cost for a moment, this is probably all doable with chip-on-board manufacturing.But as Fred says, the battery/power is the part that isn't quite there yet.

author: Fred27
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 06, 2015, 03:10:39 pm
content: I just remembered this - inductively powering LEDs in her ring from his when holding hands.http://hackaday.com/2013/05/20/adding-leds-to-an-engagement-ring/

author: mabs
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 07, 2015, 01:50:42 am
content: Awesome, thanks for the replies guys
Tiny USB hub for drone / robotics projects - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: StefanHamminga
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 01:54:30 pm
content: For my own projects I needed a tiny, light-weight and fool-proof USB 2.0 hub (to connect motor controllers, GPS, IMU boards, etc to a Pi or similar). To keep the size down and still have a connector that's available (all over AliExpress) and has retention I went with JST SH 1.0mm for the downstream ports. I tried to keep the whole a bit affordable because I'd like this to be a 'toolbox item', something you can have a few of laying around for when you need one.This is the schematic I came up with, based on the MaxLinear / EXAR XR22417:https://www.maxlinear.com/ds/xr22417.pdfWith top / bottom copper layers:Did I miss anything? The datasheet wasn't extremely clear on the LED connections (imho), so I'd love a second opinion on that.

author: voltsandjolts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 04:15:26 pm
content: That looks rather neat and compact.I suggest checking the capacitance of your chosen TVS diodes (marked as TSV on your schematic), needs to be low for use on USB data lines.Perhaps compare against USBLC6 or similar.https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/USBLC6-2SC6/497-5235-2-ND/1040559

author: voltsandjolts
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 04:22:29 pm
content: The LED connections look OK, comparing to the dev board schematic:

author: StefanHamminga
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 12, 2020, 04:46:25 pm
content: Thanks for pointing that out. I fixed the typo.The TVS diodes I picked are 0.5pF:https://lcsc.com/product-detail/TVS_Applied-Power-AR0521P1_C393849.html

author: StefanHamminga
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: October 16, 2020, 07:46:00 am
content: Thanks for pointing that out. I'm not sure if I can add that much downstream capacitance without compromising other things (cost / board size), but I guess I can at least improve the situation. What's your opinion on doing something as attached? This will add slew rate and short circuit protection - dropping the polyfuse - and about 140uF of capacitance shared by the downstream ports.
TIP: DS323x RTC + SUPERCAP - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2014, 06:49:23 pm
content: A tip for those making DS323x based clocks... amid the current frenzy for using supercaps!I've used a coin sized 5V supercap as the battery backup on several clock based projects.Charging through a schottky diode from the primary 5V supply - and it keeps the clock up during brown-outs/ black-outs, and moving the device around the house reliably.I've seen it hold the clock up much longer (1-hour plus) - not sure why without exploring in detail. Of course add more caps to extend your viewing time!

author: johnnyfp
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2014, 10:53:31 pm
content: How much is the supercap, schokky diode, vs a coin cell?

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2014, 10:55:00 pm
content: A little more - but can be sealed into the enclosure - 'never' needs to be replaced.

author: johnnyfp
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2014, 11:05:25 pm
content: But if you expect the circuit to be constantly powered for long periods of time and only have to backup the RTC every now and then when moved, would not the Coin cell last 10years?

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2014, 11:13:10 pm
content: Yes - potentially - but no potting etc.

author: johnnyfp
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2014, 11:24:30 pm
content: True. I do like your idea, as I too use the DS323x but need it to last a power outage, not an hour, as from what your saying the only way to get longer backup is putting more caps, vs a coin cell that could last years, and maybe can be potted, and do what all the other manufactures do, and make it a throwaway product (yuk!).

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2014, 11:49:51 pm
content: I must admit my bedroom clock - I just couldn't buy one that was reliable and readable across the room - so of course - made my own.I think I've had to re-set maybe twice since 2010 - and one of those was my own fault for dicking around! Accuracy is great, and no 9V battery to buy - used in retail bedside clocks!Cheers

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2014, 02:11:24 am
content: Some schottky diodes will have enough reverse leakage even at 5 volts to significantly cut the backup time compared to the DS323x alone which is only suppose to draw like 0.8 microamps. This will become much worse at higher temperatures.
Tips about this circuit ?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Gregory
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2019, 02:36:53 am
content: Hello guys! I designed and tested this 10Mhz amplifier, filter and buffer.The idea is that a 10Mhz signal from a Rubidium Standard comes in and the crystal filter and buffer output stages will be replicated 6 times for 6 output channels.I prototyped this circuit and it appears to work really well.Do you have tips for improvement?thank you!

author: bob91343
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2019, 05:16:05 am
content: Input and output impedance and levels? Pic of waveform?If you are doing this six times, the input impedance has to be 6 times higher to avoid overloading the source.

author: dom0
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2019, 11:32:13 am
content: The absurdly high Q value of the quartz circuits can pull the average output frequency from the mean value at the input. I think these can be used, but you would have to reduce their Q considerably (dampen the crystals with a resistor of a couple hundred Ohms across them).

author: ArthurDent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2019, 02:06:40 pm
content: You might want to check what has already been done in the past to get ideas. A number of frequency standards used xtal filter/buffers on the output of their oscillators, like this HP schematic shown. The manuals quite often has a section on theory of operation that might be useful.

author: Gregory
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: October 25, 2019, 06:13:31 pm
content: QuoteThe output impedancia of the standard is ~50ohm. The output of my circuit is ~50ohm through the 47ohm output resistor.The follower stage after the comom emitter stage generate the low impedance signal to drive the 6 crystal filters.The input has 3.5Vpp and the output 2.4Vpp (~11dbm on 50ohm)QuoteWhy?QuoteThank you!Here on my instagram I have a picture of the output stage without and with the filter.https://www.instagram.com/metslab/The harmonic content of the output has bigger even harmonics, I think because the class A emitter folower of the output stage. Anyway, I think it`s working fine.
Tips for probe station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: s.mosfet
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 05:49:11 pm
content: I would like to buy some probe tips and probe tip holders for a mini probe station I would like to build.I would like to have an idea of which type of tip I should look for.Which material?I don't need to do frequency measurements.Does anybody know any reference where the tip materials are compared in terms of performances?Thanks
tips on how solder bga such as xilinx xc7020 and pre heaters - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: ant17
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 13, 2019, 10:38:32 pm
content: hi i am trying find out how to solder a new bga with 484 pins.i have a few questionsi currently have a hot air rework station from china which i have had set to 480 degrees c but it still was not hot enough to remove a large bga without damaging the circuit. So i was wondering do large bga,s require pre heaters to make it easy to remove them.Also what stops the components on the bottom of the board from falling off with pre heaters. whats everyone's thoughts on infrared stations

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2019, 05:17:08 am
content: Generally if you preheat, you heat it to around 100C, and then apply heat to the part you want to remove and that brings it up to a high enough temperature to melt the solder without melting other parts off. If you damaged the board then you're using too much heat and/or the wrong tip and heating things that shouldn't be heated.

author: ant17
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 14, 2019, 07:39:10 am
content: ok thanks for your advice
'Tis the time for waterproof connectors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2018, 04:35:01 pm
content: It's almost Christmas so that means festive lights and there is a project I have been plotting for a number of years...I am looking for waterproof (don't need a high rating) connectors between my controller in an enclosure and strings of addressable LEDs (which I sourced from China a while back)I found...https://www.rapidonline.com/bulgin-px0411-03s-5560-3-pole-in-line-socket-micro-buccaneer-23-2680.. but they are out of stock. Any other recommendations? I am EU based.I need around 8.Thx

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2018, 04:47:42 pm
content: Rapid hardly have anything in stock. You should be able to find these at one of the main suppliers - RS, Farnell etc.They are pricy and fiddly to assemble, and you may need to buy the gland packs to get the right one for your cable.And don't forget the expensive pin inserts that come in packs of 10I much prefer moulded connectors where possible - you can get some reasonable ones from Aliexpress, e.g.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/50pairs-Lot-4pin-40cm-Cable-Wire-Line-led-connector-female-male-4X-0-3-mm2-for/1772201216.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.8.639a7e43ywQmyr&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10065_10068_10130_10547_319_317_10548_10696_10192_10190_10924_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10920_10921_10922_10307_10820_10301_10821_10303_537_536_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_1,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=3b1182ff-56ff-4466-b1dd-afe524697ecf-1&algo_pvid=3b1182ff-56ff-4466-b1dd-afe524697ecfthere are also plenty of Bulgin look-alikes e.g.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Waterproof-connector-SP13-type-IP68-cable-connector-Plug-and-socket-2Pin-3Pin-7Pin/32761320961.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.188540e6le09o7&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10065_10068_10130_10547_319_317_10548_10696_10192_10190_10924_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10920_10921_10922_10307_10820_10301_10821_10303_537_536_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_1,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=0bc49a8c-f168-46b6-8044-54d9dacc50cc-0&algo_pvid=0bc49a8c-f168-46b6-8044-54d9dacc50ccAlso search ip68 connector on your favorite supplier's site - plenty of options, just check cable entry sizes.For a temporary setup, self-amalgamating tape is good.

author: bugrobotics
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 29, 2018, 09:08:40 pm
content: Not sure of the availability in the EU but I prefer Turck M12 Eurostyle connectors. Used lots of them underwater in nuclear reactor inspection equipment. Excellent quality, tons of variety in styles and cheap.
TL 494 feedback loop doubt - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Achu
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2019, 03:47:45 pm
content: HiIm tying to make a boost converter circuit.All the designs based on tl494 are shown to have positive feedback.In my knowledge in if the o/p voltage increases feedback increases and pwm duty cycle will also increase and this willcause a domino effect.Maxim website shows a negative feedback loop.Im confused please correct me guys.

author: dietert1
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2019, 04:06:46 pm
content: From Fig. 9 of the TI TL494 datasheet you can understand that the input + and - denomination is unusual.The schematic you have appears to be correct. They exchanged the two comparators for current and voltage but that shouldn't matter.Regards, Dieter

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 20, 2019, 07:16:18 pm
content: Right, the output is inverting (see the pair of NOR gates). Or inverting again depending on if you use the C or E pins as output, and with an inverting driver (as shown here) or not.Tim

author: Cliff Matthews
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 20, 2019, 09:09:15 pm
content: It would seem RV1 in that voltage-sense divider could seriously do harm to the TL494..

author: xavier60
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 21, 2019, 01:15:11 am
content: The way that the OR-ing diodes are wired means that whichever op-amp's output is the highest will take control of the PWM, reducing it. The op-amps need to be configured as non-inverting.The output phasing has to also be correct. When the TL494's transistors are on, the switching element should also be turned on.
TL431 A2D Voltage Reference Question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: hal9001
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2022, 01:05:57 pm
content: I want to use the TL431 as a 2.5 volt reference connected to a A2D input. VCC is 3.3V. How do I size the R2 resistor from this example circuit? Is it (VCC-2.5)/Required current? Where required current can probably be 1mA as its going into a A2D input?Thanks

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2022, 02:10:40 pm
content: R1= (Vcc-2.5)/(Iload+Imin)Imin from datasheet- say 1mA.

author: not1xor1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 04, 2022, 06:50:12 pm
content: Quote from: hal9001 on March 04, 2022, 01:05:57 pmwhat do you mean ? The input current of the ADC is 1mA ?TL431 minimum current is usually 1mA. So you can use a resistor of (3.3 - 2.5) / (1+1) ≈ 390 Ω or less.In any case there are better (more stable and accurate) yet still cheap voltage references than TL431.

author: hal9001
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2022, 08:38:47 am
content: Quote from: Terry Bites on March 04, 2022, 02:10:40 pmThanks I understand now!Quote from: not1xor1 on March 04, 2022, 06:50:12 pmI think I understand the resistor sizing now thanks. Kindly, what are some examples of better voltage references for cheap?

author: not1xor1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2022, 08:33:46 am
content: Quote from: hal9001 on March 05, 2022, 08:38:47 amLT1009 has better accuracy, less thermal drift and surely better long term stability than a generic TL431. It is more expensive... probably around 50 cents. There are better references but those would cost a few USDs.
tl431 constant current source - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: blackjames
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2012, 12:19:23 pm
content: hi, i recently tried a basic lm317 constant current circuit, and it worked well. i was wondering if a tl431 could be used instead for loads upto 0.1A. the datasheet shows that the internal circuit is similar to a lm317. what do u think? ive got about five, so i can blow a couple up and it dosent matter.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 10, 2012, 12:36:41 pm
content: Hi James,You can get simple answers like this fast just by googling -www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/TL/TL431A.pdfIf you check out their application circuits, you'll find both a CC source and sink. They are slightly morecomplex than an LM317, requiring an extra transistor.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2012, 12:48:39 pm
content: The TL431 is a shunt regulator.It draws current (cathode/anode) when the reference input is above it's internal reference (2.5V).The example circuits in the datasheet for current source/limit use this to turn off a transistor when the voltage across a current sense resistor gets above 2.5V.You set the current by changing the sense resistor.

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2012, 06:27:16 pm
content: The LM317L comes in a TO-92 package and works like the TO-220 package LM317, but is limited to 100 mA max.Fixed regulators like the MCP1700/1702 and 78Lxx can also be used as current sources.The LM317 is essentially a 1.25 volt fixed regulator that is adjusted by raising it's ground reference with a resistor divider. That technique works with many fixed voltage regulators as well.

author: blackjames
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 11, 2012, 12:51:49 am
content: I asked the question because i was recycling old parts from some atx power supplys. I tried a 7808 cc and it worked well. Thanks guys
TL431 not working due to incorrect pinouts ! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 08:20:01 pm
content: Hi All,I just designed a small project and was stumped for a while as it just wouldn't work, despite it being a very simple circuit and checking multiple times that everything was correctly connected!As it was a simple circuit I hadn't even chucked it in a breadboard to mock up and had just gone straight to PCB, which would have been fine, only after a lot of messing around trying to figure out why it didn't work I did chuck it on a breadboard and use that to figure out what was going on... well it didn't work there either, great, so I went about trying some stuff and tried putting the TL431 in backwards to swap its Reference and Cathode around... and it started working !I replicated this on my PCB and yep, problem was solved, so it seems that the TL431 (in TO-92 package) I got from Aliexpress (yes I know!) has the pinout flipped by 180 degrees !So I thought I would just share this here as there will be plenty more of these units floating around I expect and others may come across this problem too.

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 09:12:11 pm
content: Not just a case of misreading the pinout (top view vs pin view) ?

author: TheDefpom
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 09:17:57 pm
content: Nope, I verified it in the data sheet and from the footprint markings in eagle, that was my first thought too.

author: magic
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 09:42:09 pm
content: There are SMD versions with different pinout, but most vendors call them TL432 after TI, and they are SMD.TO92 should be RAC.

author: eugene
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 23, 2022, 10:25:22 pm
content: Yes, and if the TL432 were offered in TO-92 package, then it would have the pinout the OP describes.No law that a manufacturer can't make a TL432 in TO-92, but they need to call it a TL432 not a TL431.

author: Niklas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 24, 2022, 12:54:59 am
content: Nexperia makes a TL431 available in both normal and mirrored pinout. The only difference is an additional letter M in the part number.https://www.nexperia.com/products/bipolar-transistors/3-terminal-adjustable-shunt-regulators/series/TL431-FAMILY.html

author: Leeroy
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2024, 11:42:36 pm
content: Just lost several days to this too.. Sure I'm not the last one.Had to buy 431 from two different Asian manufacturers via legitimate distributors: HTC Korea (TAEJIN Tech) and UMW (Youtai Semi), last one is huge btw.Both have proper datasheets and use uniform pinout for all 3-pin packages (ref, anode, cathode) as if it was agreed upon.What's not helping is that sot-23-3 parts are clearly marked "431" on both and some distributors make it worse buy "improving" their SEO by reusing TI's suffixes like "DBZ" (although there is nothing like that in mfg specs) or even loosely attaching TI's datasheets on product page.
TL494 D-Class module (Audio to PWM) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: CM800
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2016, 10:35:06 pm
content: Hi All,I was wondering if you guys would give a quick look at this, see if there is any obvious faults?Also, is it possible you could put 5V on the output resistor rather then 12V, I wasn't sure if it should be going below VCC, but since my logic on the board this module would go to is 5V, I'd rather this be too.I planned for this to output PWM @ 20kHz to drive small a little HV flyback transformer to give an HV arc output (Plasma Speaker)

author: strawberry
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2016, 10:58:48 pm
content: Between pin 2 & 3 need feedback resistor and pin 1 need 0V5V is ok depends what MOSFET you have

author: CM800
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 16, 2016, 11:37:57 pm
content: Quote from: strawberry on November 16, 2016, 10:58:48 pmhere is the original circuit I was working offI'm forgoing the feedback in this case.Quote from: blueskull on November 16, 2016, 11:13:13 pmI agree and somewhat expect that, though to be honest it's going into a transformer and the audio will come from the arc expanding and contracting, like so:I couldn't find any good modulators without the power stage. (I want to be able to put mains DC in)

author: diyaudio
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 17, 2016, 09:26:02 am
content: Quote from: CM800 on November 16, 2016, 10:35:06 pmThis has been discussed over at diyaudio,http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/148287-doing-class-d-amp-project-using-tl494.htmlQuote
TL494 Shutdown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: hamdi.tn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2017, 09:14:12 am
content: Hi everyone,am designing a CC-CV source using TL494, i need to be able to shut it down external, with mcu. Since TL494 don't have a dedicated pin for that. is it possible to the short to ground the feedback pin to stop it ?Thanks

author: oldway
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2017, 09:42:31 am
content: I should inhibit output pulses by one or two transistors and reset the soft start circuit, if any.

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2017, 09:51:14 am
content: Somewhere in the datasheet (disguised as an OVP):The dead-time control also provides a convenient input for overvoltage protection that may be sensed asan output voltage condition or input protection. Figure 31 shows a TL431 as the sensing element. Whenthe supply rail being monitored increases to the point that 2.5 V is developed at the driver node of R1 andR2, the TL431 goes into conduction. This forward biases Q1, causing the dead-time control to be pulledup to the reference voltage and disabling the output transistors.In clear text: "pulling the Dead Time Control Pin to Vref disables the output".Otherwise, pulling the FB pin to Vref should work too.

author: hamdi.tn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 25, 2017, 09:57:37 am
content: Quote from: capt bullshot on August 24, 2017, 09:51:14 am100% dead time by pulling DTC pin is nice idea.Thanks a lot.

author: nkj4466
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 02, 2022, 03:12:17 pm
content: Quote from: capt bullshot on August 24, 2017, 09:51:14 am

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2022, 05:14:19 pm
content: Look for the figure here (Application note):https://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva001e/slva001e.pdf
TL494CN how to? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 05, 2013, 11:07:12 pm
content: how do i use the TL494CN to use for a PWM circuit for a home made inverter? or any other circuits that i can use to use for the MOSFET transistors

author: penfold
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 12:08:10 am
content: The data sheet is good place to start :www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tl494.pdf

author: bobdagangster
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 02:43:55 am
content: You might want to take a look at this page:http://tahmidmc.blogspot.ca/2013/01/using-sg3525-pwm-controller-explanation.htmlIt uses the SG3525, but it is very similar to the TL494.

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 09:34:32 pm
content: all that is good to look at and understand..... but i am trying to make a inverter circuit with it.... any way i can do it with this?

author: AmmoJammo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2013, 09:43:33 pm
content: What type of inverter? 12volts dc to mains voltage?

author: Zero999
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 07, 2013, 12:09:08 am
content: Quote from: Nickk2057 on November 06, 2013, 09:34:32 pmIf it's DC to mains, the typical design involves boosting the battery voltage to a DC voltage equal to the mains peak voltage and converting it to AC with an h-bridge on the output. If a true sine wave is required, the h-bride is PWM'd with a sinewave and the output filtered, otherwise a stepped waveform is used.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2013, 01:19:32 am
content: You sure do like inverters!

author: Gall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 08, 2013, 03:10:39 pm
content: I suggest using something OTHER than TL494. This particular chip is very old and outdated. Almost every other alternative would be easier to use with better performance. Try to get something that has at least built-in MOSFET drivers.

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 04:18:18 pm
content: Quote from: Gall on November 08, 2013, 03:10:39 pmwell... i know of some other types to use for PWM circuits... but i want it to be homemade. i like to tinker with stuff...as all you people like to do too.but yea. and what you mean updated? meaning like the CD4047 types to use? or......

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 04:18:47 pm
content: Quote from: c4757p on November 08, 2013, 01:19:32 amOF COURSE!hehe

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 04:19:18 pm
content: Quote from: AmmoJammo on November 06, 2013, 09:43:33 pmYes. that is exactly what i am trying to do.

author: Nickk2057
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2014, 04:23:19 pm
content: Quote from: Hero999 on November 07, 2013, 12:09:08 ami only have the IRF3205 chips atm to handle the amps. datasheet here for all those at home