Workbench lighting placement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 12, 2015, 04:21:40 pm
content: Everyone talks about the benefits of LED lighting over fluorescent lighting, but I'm interested in how people place their lights over their workbench. Let me describe my setup. My work area is 8' long by 33" deep. I have 12" adjustable shelves so the actual work area is 21" deep. Basically, right now I am using the middle 3' of the bench to do everything. Over this area, I have a 4 tube, 4' T8 fluorescent fixture and the front edge is even with the front of the work top. In front of that, basically over my head is a 4' 2 tube T8 fixture for when I am working on company printers, with the lid up on them the 4 tube fixture casts shadows and the 2 tube gives me sufficient light. I am planning to split the work space to 5' for repair work and 3' for a dedicated soldering space for more efficient use of the area. I will upgrade my ESD mat to 24" by 96" to cover the entire space. I will keep the lighting arrangement for the repair work as that works for me but I am not sure of the best placement for the lighting over the soldering space.I plan to start with using a 4' 2 tube fixture converted to LED lights. Home Depot has a conversion kit with bulb and brackets for about $30 each, the fixtures themselves are cheap and won't have any covering over the bulbs. Would the best placement be overhead in the middle of the workspace measured from front to back? Would I be better off with a 4 bulb fixture? I am getting close to 60 and my eyes were never really the best. I have magnification covered but I want some good lighting. The lighting arrangement I have now is OK for soldering but I know I can do better. I am interested to see the responses. Pictures of the setups would also be helpful.

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2015, 04:53:17 pm
content: Be sure you can shut off the LED lighting when you are trying to measure signals.As many have pointed out, the electronic drive can really trash up your mains.You should have another light using a halogen bulb or other passive device (kerosene?).

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 12, 2015, 05:46:22 pm
content: The LEDs would only be on the side for soldering and only on when actually soldering. Instead of kerosene, I could get a couple of propane powered camping lanterns. The double mantle type gives out some serious light.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2015, 06:32:22 pm
content: I'd look for lamps with an even distribution of the color spectrum. I recently changed the CFLs in my office with tubes which have a better color spectrum and the difference is like night and day.

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 12, 2015, 07:13:46 pm
content: There is no single right solution, of course. In practice you'll want good general illumination supplemented by flexible task-specific lighting.I've got ahttp://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/10169692/which - although you can't see it in the picture - has a long flexible gooseneck that allow it to form a spot between 20cm and 5cm wide, just where you want it, at just the angle you want. The lens prevents any glare, even when your eye is alongside the "head".

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 12, 2015, 07:51:30 pm
content: I have the flexible task specific lighting covered. I am working on the general illumination. Nctnico, I will have to look at the package or maybe the paperwork in the box to see. IIRC, the color temp was 4500 K and the CRI was around 90. Hopefully there will be info on the color spectrum.