hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Motors with internal ESC PCBs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: rthorntn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2018, 02:08:11 am
content: Hello All,To all the helpful folks on the forum... Thank you, thank you, thank you, this is the most helpful forum ever!I'm a bit confused with all the options and can't even figure out what these things are called (I have seen BLDC, PWM, ESC...). Ebay has some cheap Chinese jobbies called:"Nedic DC 12V-24V 9300RPM Mini DC Brushless Motor Inner Rotor PWM Speed Control"My guess is they should have 3 wires (+ / - / PWM).I'm looking for what I would call a motor with an internal ESC.I would like it to be decent quality, I can adjust the speed with PWM on something like an Arduino between something like 500-10000rpm, voltage can be 12, 24 or 48v. It will be moving a 150mm fan blade so it doesn't need much torque (I basically need to move air around an oven so the fan blade will be inside the oven and the motor outside).Budget is $50, it would be good if I could source them from Australia and they came with some useful documentation.Thanks.Richard

author: anvoice
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2018, 05:28:53 am
content: I think that ebay one you found might be the right one for the job, assuming you don't need too much power. Otherwise you could get a modest motor and ESC for less than $50, then control it with a PWM signal.Are you sure you need a brushless motor? If not, the control is actually much simpler.

author: rthorntn
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2018, 05:37:31 am
content: Thanks, it will be a speed controlled fan, I want the fan speed to change programatically.The motor and the fan blade have to be seperate.

author: anvoice
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2018, 05:40:20 am
content: Yep, I was actually typing furiously as you posted this to modify my response. Think I blanked on reading the part about the fan. So yes, the Chinese version you found is probably a good contender, unless you need more power in which case a small but powerful BLDC motor and ESC combo is not much more expensive.You could also use a brushed motor. Those are cheap, and control is super easy if you don't need to reverse direction.

author: IconicPCB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 14, 2018, 06:00:11 am
content: Ah those "programmatic specificities"Rudd would be proud of You.( a comment on our former prime minister)
Motospeed V30 mouse LED's and movement stopped working after 5 minutes of usage. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: snowzord
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2017, 12:30:11 pm
content: Hi,I'm opening up this topic since i can't find myself answer to this problem, already heard some opinions from some people on my university but they don't seem correct.So, short story, a friend of mine bought this mouse, brand new, still with plastic from a shop online. We plugged the mouse on his laptop, it worked fine but, after installing the mouse drivers and applying new settings, the mouse LED's turned off and the sensor still lights up but it registers no movement. All the buttons clicked fine. So, by this moment we tried to apply the default settings but nothing changed.We then tried in another 2 laptops, same issues. I picked up the mouse and brought it to my home and tried with 2 more computers, still the same issue.By this moment, this doesn't seem to me a software problem, but yes a hardware problem.The mouse sensor is PMW3320DB-TYDU.Here should I start checking up?Thanks for your time,snowzord.

author: UmuTzn
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 05, 2017, 02:36:41 am
content: I had the same situation in motospeed v20 before. I took video and got money from GearBest. Think about reaching where you bought it because it's problematic products.in the meantime, if there are those who are curious, I still can not solve the problem. He started not to work, I opened the inside, maybe it would be useful but I could not understand why.
Mount power relay on vectorboard - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Legion
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2014, 06:27:03 am
content: I picked up this power relay from digikey the other day:http://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=ca&keywords=t9as1d12-5&x=10&y=10&formaction=onI didn't realize the pin pitch doesn't match my vectorboard. Is there some kind of adapter socket? Kind of like a DIP socket for relays? I'm not sure to stably mount it to the board.

author: Legion
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2014, 07:36:07 pm
content: Didn't realize sparkfun has a PCB for it. Ordered a few of them. Should be easier than trying to jury-rig the relay to a protoboard.

author: theatrus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2014, 03:46:48 am
content: In the past I've drilled the board and used wires to join it to pads.
mount transistors to heat sink without screws? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Dmeads
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2019, 02:30:27 am
content: for a PCB i am making i need a heat sink with a few different transistors attatched. I dont have a drill to drill through the heat sink, but i need a big one to mount all the transistors to, not just a bunch of little ones. Is there a way to mount to220 packages to the heatsink without the screw?? like just with thermal paste?

author: xani
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2019, 02:41:46 am
content: The classical one would be to screw whole board to the radiator, altho of course you'd have to design it so transistor are the highest element on the side bolted to radiatorHere is an example of board like that (altho with tiny plate as radiator):https://youtu.be/rT-1gvkFj60?t=177.That way you just need 4 screwsThere are also radiators you can "clip on" the transistor directly altho probably way too small for your needs, and ones like this:which have holes to put into PCBs and pre-made holes for transistor

author: Dmeads
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2019, 03:20:05 am
content: okay i will probably screw the board to the heatsink then good idea

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2019, 03:26:03 am
content: There are both heatsink clips and clip on heaksinks. There are also thermal adhesive pads and glue. I'd drill a hole, tap it with a screw and use the proper insulators as needed.

author: jhpadjustable
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 06, 2019, 03:26:55 am
content: Just wanted to point out that one big heatsink is very likely electrically conductive, and that you should therefore think about electrical isolation between it and all the transistor tabs.There are thermally-conductive, electrically-insulating adhesive tapes, such as 3M 8810 among many others. They might not perform as well as the standard mica sheet with thermal paste and a proper screw attachment, but you gotta do what you gotta do.
Mounting 1/32 brick DC DC - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: alanambrose
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2021, 09:59:19 pm
content: As the title says - how do people generally mount these things? It looks like the pins are on a 0.15 inch grid?TIA, Alan

author: esepecesito
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2021, 02:35:04 pm
content: Just soldering into PCB... At best measure the pins with caliper, or look in the datasheet.
Mounting sensors slightly away from the board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: cryptyk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 05:01:14 pm
content: Hi,I've run into this a few times, and I'm wondering how the experts do it. I'm constantly mounting things a few inches away from the board. A line of LEDs that mount in the enclosure, a hall effect switch that needs to be close the the surface of the enclosure, a power jack that is on a different side of the enclosure than the board, etc.Right now, I'm cutting up a protoboard into small pieces. For example, I'll cut protoboard into a piece that is 2x2 so I can fit an LED and a header on it. Then I run jumper wires between that small "satellite" board and the main board. A couple of times, I've also just soldered hookup wire to the LED leads and soldered them to the main board on the other side.What's the "right" way to do this kind of stuff?Thanks,Ryan

author: rdl
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 08:25:52 pm
content: That's probably as good a way as any. Most things made these days will have a board that's mounted directly behind the front panel. As much as possible all switches, pots, LEDs, displays, etc. will be soldered directly to this board in order to eliminate excess wiring. It's cheaper and faster to assemble.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 08:36:11 pm
content: In consumer products, for stuff like that its not uncommon to see a small PCB with one switch, connector or one LED + resistor, often with only one mounting hole. There's often evidence to show the small PCB(s) were snap-off sections of the main board, and are likely to have been populated and soldered while still one board then snapped off at the board mounting assembly station.

author: cryptyk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 02, 2015, 09:02:38 pm
content: Wow. I feel like you should bill me for that amount of quality information. Thank you SO much!Ryan
Mounting ultrasonic sensor, issues with resonance - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Jackster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2021, 02:41:40 pm
content: Hi allWe have a pair of 40kHz ultrasonic sensors working in TX and RX.Currently, they are soldered directly onto the PCB which is screwed into our aluminium (currently testing with 3D printed plastic) case.What we are finding is that depending on what is attached to this case, what horns we have and if we have extension tubes on those horns etc we change the initial echo feedback.Even holding onto the PCB changes this initial echo feedback into our sensor.We are looking to get the best performance out of these sensors as possible so I need to help to understand what is going on here and how I can negate the issue.Here are some examples. The echo is the blue line.Bare PCBWith our narrow hornsHorns with small extension tubes onThis is the style of transducer we use.It is not physically touching the case but is hard mounted to the PCB which in turn is mounted to the case.From looking at a few off the shelf sensors. The ones you put on the car bumper are mounted in rubber.But most others are just hard mounted.This would not be such a problem if we were not after being able to range down to 10cm which going off the graph above, is seeing resonance at 10-30cm which is not good.We use a threshold to omit this issue but ideally, I want to reduce this issue as much as possible.We did try early on putting the two sensors on some long wires but even then we saw some feedback.Am I chasing dragons here trying to omit something that can't be fixed?Do I just need to extend my threshold a little more or is there something that can be done here?Thanks!

author: KaneTW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2021, 02:58:12 pm
content: This is unavoidable. Ultrasonic transducers react very strongly to the rest of the mechanical system. Reduce the Q of the system to make the effects less apparent.
Mouse bites, v scoring or something else? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: keef46
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 15, 2021, 01:08:40 pm
content: I have to design a interface PCB to fit into 2 x different enclosures...The circuit will always be the same, but the mounting holes and dimensions will be different for whichever enclosure its going into.For one enclosure I will need a slightly larger PCB to pick up on existing mounting holes. So my plan it to design everything to fit into the smaller enclosure, then add some break off areas of PCB for the larger enclosure fixings.So - what would people use for the breakoff area's.... Mouse bites, v-scoring or something else.Attached is an image showing the dimensions....
Mouser puts out new schematic/simulation program! (SOON) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Falcon69
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2014, 08:03:43 pm
content: Just got the email today, can't wait to check it out. Hopefully, it is easier to work than LTspice and less confusion.http://www.mouser.com/multisimblue/?utm_medium=email&utm_source=august2014&utm_campaign=cm-multisimblue-comingsoon&utm_content=ctaSays it has PCB layout as well

author: robimarko
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2014, 08:23:21 pm
content: To me it looks like rebranden(And possibly upgraded) NI Multisim

author: jaxbird
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2014, 08:32:29 pm
content: Certainly worth a try if not too locked in and decent software.Not sure exactly what they compare against, but it looks impressive.

author: BloodyCactus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2014, 08:45:43 pm
content: yep saw that email. took all of 5 seconds to see no support for linux and deleted it. maybe one day we will be supported

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2014, 09:02:18 pm
content: FWIW,there's another thread open on this.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2014, 01:35:34 am
content: Quote from: BloodyCactus on August 05, 2014, 08:45:43 pmi'm projecting... soonest it will be the next decade. just be patient

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2014, 12:46:47 pm
content: Quote from: jaxbird on August 05, 2014, 08:32:29 pmTool 'E' looks like Eagle. 'D' is probably Designspark. 'S' will therefore be Digikey's Scheme-It.

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 06, 2014, 01:44:49 pm
content: Quote from: BloodyCactus on August 05, 2014, 08:45:43 pmWrite your own damn source
MOVED: A shift register IC with individually settable tristate outputs ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 14, 2014, 12:11:21 pm
content: This topic has been moved toProjects, Designs, and Technical Stuff.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=29760.0
MOVED: Electronic piano korg SP170 : dysfunction - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Poï
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 07, 2025, 08:15:02 am
content: This topic has been moved to Repair because benj38 asked me for it. As a newbie in this forum i give credits to all the advices. It seems also that that the topic Repair is a better classification according to my post.Former linkhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/electronic-piano-korg-sp170-dysfunction/new/?topicseen#new
MOVED: F60SA60DS - Dual Series Connection Fast Recovery Rectifiers - Replacement - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: 2X
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 26, 2023, 08:59:50 pm
content: This topic has been moved to  because it is about a repair issue.[https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/f60sa60ds-dual-series-connection-fast-recovery-rectifiers-replacement/new/?topicseen#new]
MOVED: Free Intel Galileo Board from Microsoft - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: GeoffS
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 07, 2014, 03:15:51 am
content: This topic has been moved toBuy/Sell/Wanted.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=33473.0Might be a bit of a stretch moving it to Buy/Sell/Wanted but we don't have a Freebies forum yet.
MOVED: Interfacing an HV5812 with arduino - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jordan_me160
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 30, 2019, 12:36:36 am
content: This topic has been moved toMicrocontrollers & FPGAs.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=183477.0
MOVED: Level shifter between ESP32 and STM8S Uarts - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: mspider65
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2020, 05:12:02 pm
content: This topic has been moved toMicrocontrollers.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=237612.0
MOVED: Need a help with a WIFI Router UPS - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: soumyadip77
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2024, 03:45:10 am
content: This topic has been moved toProjects, Designs, and Technical Stuff.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=412456.0
MOVED: Need help for programming Arduino  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Irilia
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2024, 05:07:12 am
content: I think this topic is more adapted in this sectionProjects, Designs, and Technical Stuff.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=420683.0
MOVED: New Guy seeking Oscilloscope advice - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: The_Boots
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 14, 2018, 10:31:17 pm
content: This topic has been moved to Repair, since the conversation has changed to how to fix it instead of finding a temporary replacement.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=105862.0
MOVED: not receiving email notifications from this board - anyone else? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 25, 2018, 07:02:45 pm
content: This topic has been moved toEEVblog Specific.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=135110.0...... so that there is a chance Dave reads it.
MOVED: PCB prototype with small 0.35mm pitch BGA chip - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: andan42
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 19, 2022, 03:18:35 pm
content: This topic has been moved toPCB/EDA/CAD.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=356686.0
MOVED: Piezoelectric sensors, Fm trancievers and more. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Wigo
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: May 27, 2019, 08:25:15 am
content: This topic has been moved toProjects, Designs, and Technical Stuff.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=186594.0
MOVED: Suggestion for reading AC voltage variation with level shift - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: anishkgt
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2018, 06:30:39 pm
content: This topic has been moved toProjects, Designs, and Technical Stuff.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=104619.0
MOVED: Tektronix 465M for $90.  Worth it? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Coffeemugger
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 19, 2018, 05:45:17 pm
content: This topic has been moved toBuy/Sell/Wanted.It belongs here probably.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=158455.0
MOVED: XJW01 LCR-Bridge, need help for repair - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Gio@EEVBlog
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 27, 2025, 04:42:49 pm
content: This topic has been moved toRepair.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=451307.0
Moving coil ammeter for bidirectional currents? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: e100
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2019, 07:31:58 am
content: Is there a generic name for the type of ammeter that has zero in the middle of the scale and swings left or right depending on the direction of current flow?Typically these are used for showing whether a battery is being charged or discharged.Alternatively is it ok to put two unidirectional current meters in series, one with reversed connections to show the reversed flow? Will alternately driving the meters backwards damage them?

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2019, 07:56:35 am
content: Zero center scale? Google brings up a ton.

author: Brumby
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 16, 2019, 12:22:58 pm
content: A centre zero ammeter is what you want.Quote from: e100 on May 16, 2019, 07:31:58 amIt is possible of course and the mechanical stress on the movement of the reversed meter may not cause damage, but it's certainly not an idea that will earn the approval of most people here. It is a clumsy idea - and unnecessary since youcanget the type of meter you are after.

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 16, 2019, 07:04:41 pm
content: For example, Page 4 here:https://www.simpsonelectric.com/images/File/datasheets/widevue_datasheet.pdfhttps://simpsonelectric.com
Moving up from proto boards - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: chandin
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2011, 10:10:25 am
content: So I was wondering say you have your idea working fine on an arduino or mbed or whatever. What are the next steps to make a self contained board for your project. I looked in google but did not find anything promising.Is there an episode about this?, If not it would be a good idea.But till then please enlighten me on this thread

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2011, 10:18:08 am
content: You pretty much just duplicate the parts of the arduino board circuit diagram, that your project uses, onto your own pcb design.Adding in any external components you attached to the arduino.
MP3 player gets pretty hot when plugged into USB to charge - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: lordvader88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2018, 05:58:55 pm
content: I find it annoying how much energy gets dumped into this cheap little MP3 player to charge it's Li-ion battery. IDK how it charges (compared to other Li-I batteries), or what the circuitry is. IDK if it keeps trying after it's topped up. It just doesn't seem right for it to use so much energy that's just getting dumped into heat.I'm imagining it's passing 5V across some diode after charging is over, rather than shutting it off.There's no question here, I've had it apart, I should look up the MCU in it again, it's just annoying. Makes me worry it's going to fry itself, the case probably gets to 45deg C (125F iirc)

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 25, 2018, 06:12:22 pm
content: Most of these things have small linear charge controller ICs, chips specifically designed to charge Li-ion cells. Getting warm is normal, however if you've noticed it getting significantly hotter than it used to then that could be a problem.

author: Raj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2018, 04:27:29 am
content: Lets force it to take up less power by limiting current to it by making our own cable for it.

author: lordvader88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 09, 2018, 02:24:38 pm
content: Yeah I guess it's not 50C, but it just seems so warm and the battery is supposedly done charging.Maybe it's just the LED backlight, that stays on the whole time it's plugged in. These cheapo MP3 players don't last long anyways.I've been walking around with earbuds for years know......how many days worth of my life, have I wasted trying to keep them in my ears ??
MP3 player project - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: kalio
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: September 11, 2011, 08:22:56 am
content: Hi guys!A little wile ago a friend of mine donate a bu94605kv'm from ROHM and I thought is worth trying to build my own mp3 palyer but the problems appears pretty quickly(this is my first project in embedded world)In the archive I put the datasheet for bu94605kv and a functional speciffication file of an related IChttp://www.mediafire.com/?xxrwm2l2jt9xdreMy first question is: Can i wire all the pins who need a pull-up resistor to one resistor?Im not sure if i choose a good value for the bypass capacitor (C6 10uF).I don't know what I have to do whit the no. 54 pin(VCDACO).In datasheet they say: Audio DAC reference voltage output.I'll need audio amplification on the schema?What else I'll need to add/change?(the battery has 3.7V not 9V)sorry for my englishThank you in advance
MP3 player rechargable Lithium battery pressure build up ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: lordvader88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2017, 07:47:34 pm
content: I found a mini MP3 player that doesn't seem to work (there's rust on the mini-USB jack, maybe that's the issue).There's 0.46V still on the battery. Its about the size of a postage stamp, all sealed in a little silver packet. And the package is full of gas, its like squeezing on bubble wrap. The battery is maybe 3-4mm thick, and with the gas puffing out the sides its maybe 5-6mm thick. Does that sound normal, or is the battery on its way out?

author: fable
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2017, 08:04:21 pm
content: Bulged battery is sign of a dead battery

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2017, 08:06:01 pm
content: Yep, it's finished. Discharging a lithium battery that low kills them, puffing is a sure indication that damage has occurred. Throw it out and buy a replacement, they're not expensive.

author: lordvader88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2017, 08:26:01 pm
content: Ok thanks I cut it off, I might have a candidate replacement. Now to find out why it didn't turn on when I hooked up the USB line. The grd and 5V pins seem ok to the DMM, and the ST switch too. Time to wire in 5V

author: fable
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2017, 10:30:25 pm
content: If there is no battery or if battery is bad it will not turn on no matter if usb is plugged.Sorry for my bad english

author: bitseeker
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 23, 2017, 11:58:04 pm
content: Correct. You'll have to hook up a good battery or substitute with the correct voltage from a power supply.I, too, had an old MP3 player go bad and, after an annoying procedure to get it open, found a fully fluffed pillow of a battery inside. Hooked up my lab power supply in lieu of the battery and it ran just fine.
Mp3 playing IC  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Vcky_electro
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2019, 06:27:07 pm
content: Hi,I'm interested in designing electronics. Pls advice me on the IC which can read mp3 file and give the analog signal and then that signal I will connect to amplifier..Awaiting for the reply..Thanks,Vicky.

author: exe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 23, 2019, 06:31:55 pm
content: Did you check aliexpress/banggood mp3 modules?

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2019, 09:36:58 pm
content: A long time ago, I used an MP3 Codec with an LPC2106 uC and external TCP/IP gadget to grab music from a server and play it locally. It worked really well.I would look at these:https://www.sparkfun.com/search/results?term=codec

author: Tek Tech
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2019, 04:03:22 am
content: They start from $1 shipped.https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=mp3+module&_sacat=0&_sop=15
Mp3 to drive small 3 volt motor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Happyhopper
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 17, 2019, 04:59:10 pm
content: I would like to use my mp3 player as a signal generator to relay a3volt power supply , was going to make my own by use of a read relay question is there a better wayPrate

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 17, 2019, 06:17:17 pm
content: Can you clarify what you are trying to do? Do you want a motor to run when audio is present?

author: Raj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2019, 12:35:39 pm
content: so you want to mod your mp3 hardware and software so that it's capable of turning a motor in and off?But why?Just tell us the application and we'll immediately find a solution

author: soldar
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2019, 04:12:03 pm
content: Don't worry. He's got a duplicate thread going and it seems he's not responding there either.

author: Simon
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 19, 2019, 04:41:22 pm
content: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/trying-to-find-1-v-trigger-relay/msg2625276/#msg2625276
MP3087 - Dual Power Supply Usage Question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: pelagos
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 01, 2023, 01:33:25 am
content: Hi thereBe gentle with meI just picked up an MP3087 dual power supply - it is an older model by the looks but does seem to work based on my limited testing (both outputs seem to put out the stated voltage)I want to be able to use it to supply both neg and pos outputs - i need this for synth modules I am making as well as mixing console channels that I am trying to repair - From what I read it should be able to do this in 'serial' mode?Ques is I am not sure how to check that this function is working?From what i understand the left channel should be the neg and the right the pos when in serial mode?I cant find a manual online and am not sure what sockets to probe with multimeter to check this functionality?Any advise would be great - attached is image of the front panel - if someone could advise where I should test to see the neg and pos outputs that would be greatI am relatively new to this so please spell out clearly - I am very conscious of power etc and hence why asking before randomly testing things...Thanks

author: Jwillis
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2023, 04:30:33 am
content: Welcome to the Forum.When in series or parallel mode the master controls both side. So only one set of controls work.I may have got the sides mixed up as to which one is master and which one is slave in the picture.To test voltage simply attach your multi meter to the positive and negative.In independent mode each side is an individual 0-30V 3A power supply. 3A is the maximum current supplied.In series mode the master controls the slave to give you a single 0-60V 3A power supply. 3A is the maximum current supplied.In parallel mode the master controls the slave to give you a single 0-30V 6A power supply. 6A is the maximum current supplied.The current adjust limits the output current.0-3 amps in independent or series mode0-6 amps in parallel modeIn all cases if load current is exceeded the voltage will drop. This is normal.The 5Volt supply has only 1 amp I believe. Don't add to parallel or series circuit. Damage may occur.

author: David Aurora
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2023, 05:36:29 am
content: Quote from: pelagos on May 01, 2023, 01:33:25 amIn series mode the outermost sockets will be negative (left) and positive (right) referenced to either one of the inner sockets on the variable outputs (NOT the 5V sockets in the middle, the sockets next to those). In other words, the left + and right - both become your 0V/ground reference

author: pelagos
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 01, 2023, 06:49:08 am
content: Thanks very much - super helpfful info and is working as I had hoped
MP3437 boost converter IC - Vdd pin voltage - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: newtekuser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2024, 02:21:32 am
content: I was planning to use the MP3437 IC to boost 5v to 12v, but I see the VDD pin takes 3.6V max. Can I drop the 5V to 3.6V using a resistor divider for this pin, or do I need regulated 3.6V to the Vdd pin?https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/documentview/productdocument/index/version/2/document_type/Datasheet/lang/en/sku/MP3437/document_id/6889/

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2024, 02:44:30 am
content: Its got an internal regulator for Vdd. For 5V in operation, simply connect the required decoupling cap to that pin and *nothing* else.

author: newtekuser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2024, 03:31:16 am
content: Quote from: Ian.M on March 10, 2024, 02:44:30 amOn page 17 of the datasheet it says external power source for Vdd should be limited to 3.6V, this is what confuses me. Likely I’m not understanding something.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2024, 04:31:20 am
content: External power to Vdd is needed when running from single cell alkaline or NiMH batteries, energy harvesting applications and similar very low Vin. If you feed Vdd with a 3.5V external supply, the internal regulator is disabled and the converter will start with Vin as low as 0.95V and run down to 0.8V, or feed it 3V and let the internal regulator take over, powering Vdd from the output once running. That leaves you with the problem of getting 3V or 3.5V from 0.95V Vin, but as only a couple of mA will be needed, that's not too tricky.As you've got 5V Vin, (or at least 4.4V USB Vbus), you don't need to bother with any of that.

author: newtekuser
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2024, 04:43:19 am
content: Quote from: Ian.M on March 10, 2024, 04:31:20 amI see, thank you for clarifying this! I see this too in the first example schematic on page 1 where Vdd is tied to ground via using a 4.7uF cap. However, if I do this, DRC complains about input power pin is not driven by any output power pin.Safe to ignore this error I suppose in this case?

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 10, 2024, 05:36:55 am
content: Yes, that's a bogus DRC warning. If your EDA package permits, the pin should be flagged as optional power, if not it shouldn't be flagged as a power pin.
MPC9808 breakout board - deciding on pullup / pulldown restistor values - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: alcs2000au
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2020, 02:24:54 pm
content: Hi guysI was wondering why in so many schematics always 10k ohm pullup / pulldown resistors seem to be used. The reason I am thinking about it is because the MPC9808 is a high precision temperature sensor and one would want to minimize any potential self heating. Any recommendations for the circuit below? Esp32 board with 3.3v will be used. SMT dip switch so the address can be set on the board. Thanks.http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/25095A.pdf

author: Paul Moir
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2020, 04:44:11 pm
content: Are you concerned with the resistors heating the MPC9808? If not they're value is pretty irrelevant to the input current since that'll be the <5uA supplied/sunk by the input pin no matter what.If you are talking the resistors, then yes they can be much higher. Hauling down 3.3V to 0.3V with 5uA max is is 600k so technically anything under that will work. 10K would be habit, eg you'd need this for old TTL LS, and noise resistance. But your resistors don't need to be near the MPC9808 thermally I would think.

author: alcs2000au
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2020, 08:07:26 pm
content: Thanks, that already makes it a lot clearer!It was this part of the datasheet that got me thinking about it:

author: Paul Moir
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2020, 09:11:26 pm
content: Oh yes, I understand what you mean now. I was focusing on the address lines since they're the only ones with pull-downs. I don't understand why you have series resistors in SDA and SCL; I was assuming they were for some EMI or protection reason but I now think you meant them to be pullups?When the MCP9808 talks back to the EP32, it'll have to sometimes pull down a pull-up resistor on SDA. The value of the pull-up resistor is driven by the bus capacitance and how fast you communicate with the MCP9808:http://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva689/slva689.pdf?ts=1587934417753(TLDR - go to figure 3).If you can communicate slow enough with the MCP9808 and keep it close to the ESP32, you could have a pretty high value for the pull-up resistor. Note that the pullup resistor only heats the MCP9808 when the MCP9808 is sending a zero on the i2c bus, which can be pretty infrequent. Say you figure you can get away with 10K. You'd think that would be 33uA which wouldn't be fantastic. But since it's only actually sending a zero say 1% of the time, it's only "0.33uA" from a thermal perspective. Obviously this is dwarfed by the 200uA the MCP9808 consumes while running, but I expect you'll have it in sleep a lot if you want to minimize self-heating.
MPL3115A2 pressure sensor interface - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: ZeroResistance
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 10, 2016, 06:33:38 pm
content: The MPL3115A2http://www.nxp.com/products/sensors/pressure-sensors/barometric-pressure-15-to-115-kpa/20-to-110kpa-absolute-digital-pressure-sensoris mentioned as an absolute pressure sensor meant for measuring barometric pressure or atmospheric pressure.Its range is 20kPa to 110kPa fromwhat I understand this is about 80% vacuum to 0% vacuum (atmospheric pressure).I just wanted to make sure if I could use this sensor to measure pressure in a sealed container within the specified pressure ratings?Are there any gotchas as such?
MPLAB PICKit4 + XC8 compatibility - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: dtusllitg
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 30, 2022, 08:34:12 am
content: Dear forum,I am looking for a PIC development board for learning to program PIC in MPLAB XC8 and upload the code with PICKit4.In PIC-EK manualhttps://www.manualslib.com/manual/2052714/Logifind-Pic-Ek.html#manualit states PICKit3 as a compatible programmer but does not mention PICKit4.However, the board has an ICSP connector so I assume that I can upload the code with PICKit 4. Is this correct?Dan

author: MarkF
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2022, 10:48:09 am
content: Just my two cents here:The ICSP pinout is the same for all PIC microcontrollers. It doesn't matter which PICKit you use. I don't have a PICKit 4 but regularly use PICKit 2 and 3. The biggest advantage of the PICKit 4 is it's support for other MCUs (i.e. ARMs).Note. These older PICKits may NOT support the newest PICs. You would need to check which ones you want to use.IMHO the development boards are a waste of money and you're limited to their microcontroller. I would just buy the PIC you want to try in a through-hole package and use a solderless breadboard. Also as cheap as PCBs are, build your own break-out PCB. I just did one for a pic32mx170f256 with a ICSP, serial port and small OLED display. Plus a PCB with a PIC18 and USB interface.
MPLAB X: MCP19111X Plugin-In project has errors - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Paligstradnieks
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 28, 2019, 12:50:55 pm
content: Hi!This is my first post. If this post doesn’t apply to idea of this section, feel free to remove it to other section or delete it. But I hope this is the right place, because I believe that what I have not done right is pretty simple – didn’t install some kind of driver, misspelled something in code etc. maybe someone had some experience with these tools.I have a problem with microchip’s MPLAB X “MCP19111X Plugin-In”. I already tried to contact with microchips support, but usually there are some problems (the log in page not working, no answer in support phone number, no reply on e-mail etc.). As last straw, there is Microchip’s forum. I am waiting for moderators to accept my registered account, but when that might happen?I have development board ADM00397 for MCP19111. My idea was to try programming MCP19111 chip in this board. I am total newbie in C, but I thought “hey, they made Plug-In which generates whole project! Maybe I can do something about it by just using the Plug-In with my PickIt3.”But when I try to build those projects, I get errors and NOTHING works as, in my opinion, should.For example, I have set these parameters (first attachment) and the Plug-In generated this project (second attachment).When I try to build, I get this kind of output (third attachment).I also have tried to fix all errors by digging in the code(s) and changing some lines (list infourth attachment). All those errors looked … just … too simple. Of course, when I upload hex of this “fixed” project, the ADM00397 doesn’t work at all.Tried changing those links C99 vs C90, but no progress. Using latest MPLAB X and XC8.Usage of registers also seems logical as much I could understand.The big question is: what I am doing wrong? What is missing here? Wrong versions? Wrong parameters? Wrong karma?

author: Paligstradnieks
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 05, 2019, 05:18:07 pm
content: The problem iskind ofsolved in other forum. I had to switch to other compiler XC8 version. I the end v1.42 seems the latest to compile projects from MCP1911X Plug-In. At least there are no errors.
MPLABX - __delay_ms() - basics - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: jalvim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 01:22:25 pm
content: Hi,This is the first time I'm working with MPLABX (compiler is XC8) and I'm just trying to make a simple LED flashing with delay. I'm using an ATMega328P (arduino), pickit4, and I can write a program to light the LED on PORTB5.When I try to add a delay the I get the following error:"newmain.c: In function 'main':newmain.c:23:5: warning: implicit declaration of function '__delay_ms' [-Wimplicit-function-declaration]__delay_ms(100);"What am I missing? (or messing up...)the full code is as follows:#include <xc.h>FUSES = {0xFF, // LOW{SUT_CKSEL=EXTXOSC_8MHZ_XX_16KCK_14CK_65MS, CKOUT=CLEAR, CKDIV8=CLEAR}0xDE, // HIGH{BOOTRST=SET, BOOTSZ=256W_3F00, EESAVE=CLEAR, WDTON=CLEAR, SPIEN=SET, DWEN=CLEAR, RSTDISBL=CLEAR}0xFD, // EXTENDED{BODLEVEL=2V7}};LOCKBITS = {0xCF, // LOCKBIT{LB=NO_LOCK, BLB0=NO_LOCK, BLB1=LPM_SPM_DISABLE}};#define _XTAL_FREQ 16000000void main(){__delay_ms(100);DDRB = 0b00100000;while(1){PORTB = 0b00100000;__delay_ms(500);PORTB = 0b00000000;__delay_ms(500);}}

author: Manul
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 01:33:42 pm
content: I think you need this:#define _XTAL_FREQ 16000000#include <xc.h>

author: jalvim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 01:37:29 pm
content: Hi,Thanks for the reply.I have both those statements on the code, and I just tried it on the opposing order like you suggested. Same error

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 01:51:32 pm
content: Does XC8 integrate avr-libc or is it proprietary? The traditional way at least is:Code:#include <util/delay.h>_delay_ms(time);Tim

author: jalvim
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 02:05:13 pm
content: As far as I understand the avr libc is has a free licence (https://www.nongnu.org/avr-libc/)But as when I try your code I get one more error:"# warning "F_CPU not defined for <util/delay.h>""Maybe I need to get the library? Although when it doesn't find the library (I mistiped it once) the error is normally different.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2020, 04:14:12 pm
content: Yes, you still must define F_CPU as it says, before the include is loaded. This can be inline, or it can be a project setting (at least, most compilers allow setting command line defines).Tim
MPLABX marking a file as an entry point - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: sairfan1
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2024, 09:12:44 pm
content: I believe i did this before but forgot. I have a file mymain.c and it has the main function, I want to make this file as an entry point to compile and run the project in MPLABX 6.x with XC compiler.By default mplab considers main.c as an entry point I did this before but forgot where to find the option to point some other file as starting point for my project.
MRF427 RF power transistor equivalents? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Chris Wilson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 27, 2013, 10:02:52 pm
content: Looking for a pair of MRF427 RF NPN power transistors, and finding them hard to source here in the UK. Does anyone know of an equivalent that may be easier to get hold of please? Case style is SOT121Spec sheet is attached, thanks.

author: aalbri
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2013, 02:13:37 am
content: I'm sorry, not too familiar with that kind of part. But I found this. You can just ignore it if it's not even close.www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BLF177_N.pdfThat's really expensive!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 28, 2013, 04:19:54 am
content: I have a pile of TIC RF35 transistors in the same case, probably similar, but 18V rated devices. Want some and I will pop them in the post for you, just cover the airmail cost.http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/motorola/MRF453.pdfPossible that they will be usable if it is a 12V system.

author: Chris Wilson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2013, 01:02:18 pm
content: Thanks SeanB and aalbri. I bought a supposedly new Skanti 250 Watt PA from a ham and found two of the driver transistors were not soldered to the board and held onto the heat sink with only one screw each. The guy seemed genuine and I am now back in touch and he's exchanging it for another. A genuine mistake I think! I am trying to negotiate to buy the faulty amp, so may still be looking for these, but would prefer a direct replacement. I think I have now found a source, so many thanks for the offer and help, I am hopefully sorted, one way or another

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2013, 06:17:49 pm
content: I have around 40 of those so if you want just contact me.

author: Chris Wilson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: October 01, 2013, 06:33:18 pm
content: It's a 50 V device I am afraid Sean, which is a shame, but the seller is exchanging it for a functional one. He doesn't seem keen on selling the broken one for a lower price, I guess he'll fix it up himself and make more that way ;( Many thanks for the offer, it was very good of you!
MSGEQ7 Question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: techknight
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: November 28, 2013, 01:16:33 am
content: I have noticed this chip is getting quite popular, And I had studied the datasheet.However its not clear to me how the DC levels are interpreted. Are they stepped? or are they smooth/logarithmic levels?Kind of a vague question but I havent seen it explained anywhere. Reason why I ask is I am going to attach the output to the ADC of an Atmega IC, and i needed to know the maximum bar level resolution i could get. Obviously the ADC is 1023, so i can have 1023 LEDs per ADC (theoretically), but just curious what the chip resolution is.Thanks.
MSO5000 Signal generator question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: adras
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2019, 06:58:03 pm
content: Hey,As I want to play around with some 12V PWM fans, I need a 22khz signal to get them running. Luckily the MSO 5000 series has a 2 channel signal generator. But since a lot of things can go wrong when you're playing around with electronics I was afraid I could kill my precious Oscilloscope. The idea is simple, what if I accidentally hook up 12V+GND to the signal generator probe? Will it survive that?Hope somebody can shed some light on this.

author: ledtester
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 13, 2019, 06:57:06 pm
content: Some ideas:- use an optocoupler to isolate your signal generator from your fan circuit; here's a discussion with a schematic:https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=507639.0- use a cheap microcontroller to generate the pwm signal- get one of these:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32835541668.html(search for "Signal Generator PWM Pulse Frequency Duty Cycle")