hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Connecting two boards with wire, max current - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: yeah_indeed
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2016, 04:29:02 pm
content: Hello,I have a controller board for a fan. This requires three wires, power (12V), ground and a signal (PWM, few mA).The fan is mounted around 1 meter from the controller board, and the fan has a mini-fit Molex connector on it (4 pins, but only 3 are used).Moreover, the whole cable needs to fit through a slot of around 1 cm^2.How can I connect these two IN A NEAT WAY? I do not want to solder loose cables, but rather a connector on the controller board. On the fan side it does not matter that much, since no connector will fit through the slot during installation.The power cables carry max. 600 mA when the fan is on full speed. In normal use around 400 mA will be drawn.Can anyone help me out? I do not like cables which are directly soldered onto a perfboard, even more if they must handle a bit of current.If you need anymore info, let me know. Thanks.

author: Chriss
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2016, 07:11:25 pm
content: Hi!If I understood your request, I would solder on a cable with 3 or 4 wires ( depend on how many wires you wish/must use ) some pins which can fit to the connector on the fan and stick all together.The insulation would I made with heat shrinking pipes.That would be casual and nice.I hope I helped you...

author: yeah_indeed
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 27, 2016, 09:21:41 pm
content: Quote from: Chriss on February 27, 2016, 07:11:25 pmThanks for your suggestion, making a new connector sounds ok. What kind of wire should I use? The solid core I have breaks when trying to bend it to make good connections ...

author: uncle_bob
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 28, 2016, 01:07:03 am
content: Quote from: yeah_indeed on February 27, 2016, 09:21:41 pmHiThere are tables that tell you what size wire you need for a given amount of current. If this is a 100A fan at 480V, there may also be some safety regulations you need to look at. In general, stranded wire is better if you need a flexible connection. The down side of stranded wire is that you may need to be more careful with it when it solders to a board or goes into a connector. It needs more strain relief than solid wire some cases.Bob
Connecting two BQ24030 OUT pins, so cells are parallel - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: frank26080115
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2013, 06:19:00 pm
content: I'd like to double my device's battery life by using two LiPo cells in parallel. Each cell will have its own charge management chip BQ24030 (both share the same AC input), so I don't have to worry about mismatched cell voltages.BQ24030 here:http://www.ti.com/product/bq24030But I don't know if I am supposed to simply connect the two OUT pins of the BQ24030 together? Or do I need a diode to prevent reverse current?From intuition, I think I do not need a diode because the MOSFET inside one of the two BQ24030 will simply have a low or zero or negative VDS, and subsequently cut off. But I want to confirm this.Thanks
FT313? Connecting USB printer to serial/spi port on mcu?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: matseng
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 19, 2015, 09:57:04 am
content: I've got a project that is rather cost sensitive where I have to connect about 100 small thermal receipt printers to microcontroller(s). Printers with serial is about three times the cost of the usb-only versions so I rather use the usb-printers to keep the costs down.The micrcontrollers (in this case planned to be ESP8266's) could of course be replaced with Raspberry/Banana/Orange PI's, but that would be a bit of overkill and also jack up the price and power requirements significantly.Is there any chip/device/mcu that could be used to accept serial/spi in and then act as a usb host to connect to the printer? Preferably something that doesn't require a ton of low level usb code hacking... There will probably be enough of problems with just figuring out and writing the code for the protocol of the printer.EDIT: The FT313 looks kinda interesting. Have anyone here used that chip?
Connecting VIVOSUN AeroZesh G4 EC FAN to Shelly Wifi 0-10V dimmer for use in HA - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: elcrni
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2025, 01:04:43 pm
content: Hi all,so i have purchased a Vivosun inline EC fan to vent my resin printer, however vivosun has control via app which i dont like, so i am looking for a solution to implement into home assistant. By my understanding, EC fan should be 0-10V controllable? i got shelly 0-10V dimmer to try to control the fan from Home Assistant.Vivosun Fan:https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B0C6QK97P2?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1Shelly Dimmer:https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0D9JQTP8B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1Vivosun fan insides:Any help on how i can do this would be highly appreciated.many thanks in advance,Alek

author: ahsrabrifat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 09, 2025, 04:10:50 pm
content: Your Vivosun fan does not support 0–10 V control like the Shelly dimmer provides.Instead, it uses a 4-wire harness: red = +24 V, black = GND, yellow = PWM speed control, and white = tach feedback.This means speed is controlled by a 5 V PWM signal (typically ~25 kHz) rather than an analog voltage.The clean way to integrate it into Home Assistant is to use an ESP8266 or ESP32 running ESPHome.Power the fan as usual from its 24 V input.Disconnect the yellow PWM wire from the stock controller.Connect it through a small resistor (about 1 kΩ) to an ESP GPIO configured as PWM output.Tie the ESP ground to the fan ground (black wire).Optionally connect the tach (white) to another GPIO for RPM feedback.This setup will give you slider-based speed control directly in Home Assistant without relying on the Vivosun app.
Connection 1bit translator FXLP35P5X - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: leftek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2016, 06:00:53 am
content: Hello, i have two questions for the place of FXLP35P5X :- it is necessary to connect in the output, the components capacitor CL and resistor RL or i can avoid them?- on the GND pin must connect BOTH grounds of the input voltage and the output voltage?The datasheet is herehttps://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/FX/FXLP34.pdf

author: dadler
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 30, 2016, 06:15:12 am
content: CL and RL are just the load at which the provided specifications can be expected to be valid. E.g. Driving 30pF/1Meg you can expect the specified propagation delay. The parts you are driving will have intrinsic capacitance/input impedance, and this will load the translator.The grounds must be common.

author: leftek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2016, 06:38:44 am
content: So if i understand right, it is not necessary to add them as separate components on my circuit. They are on datasheet, in order to indicate the delays.Please correct me if i am wrong.

author: dadler
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 30, 2016, 06:43:01 am
content: Quote from: leftek on March 30, 2016, 06:38:44 amCorrect, they are showing the test circuit they used to arrive at the values in the datasheet. If your downstream logic is the same or lower load (you are likely driving logic gates, not discrete resistors and capacitors), you should theoretically be able to expect the delay values in the datasheet.You can connect the translator directly to downstream logic and drive it.

author: leftek
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2016, 06:48:18 am
content: It's clear. Thank you very much for your help.
Connection of Analog and Digial ground  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gogoman
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2020, 04:54:21 pm
content: hello In what instance should a ADC analog ground and digital ground be connected with a ferrite bead. What is the criteria for the bead selection. the current < 10mA.thanks

author: capt bullshot
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2020, 06:10:30 pm
content: Depends on your design constrains.Most ADC work best when their analog and digital GND pins are tied to the very same GND plane. So no ferrite bead at all.

author: KT88
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 29, 2020, 06:53:25 pm
content: QuoteNever!AGND and DGND only denote the internal connections to the IC. Sharing supply currents of analog and digital sections over one bond wire would severely degrade the specs of the converter.However it makes sense to partition the PCB into an analog and a digital area to avoid interferences between analog and digital signals.
Connection of ESD return path the System GND - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: kays
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: October 31, 2018, 12:48:34 am
content: Hi all,This is my first post to the forum and I would like to say a big HI for all fellow electronics aficionados.In my current design I have one RJ45, one RS232 and two RS485 ports. I have TVS diodes CDSOT23-SM712 for serial channels and ESD7104MUTAG for Ethernet port. Now I have connected the ESD GND of the TVS to a separate GND island (referred to as CHGND) and then AC coupled that to System GND via 1n (2kV) parallel with 10MEG (both 1206 package). My idea is to not directly couple noise from ESD return to system ground. This is also suggested in Microchip App note AN2054.My system is powered by 12V DC power supply coming from a mains Flyback or external 12V DC power supply. I dont have a Chassis GND or Earth. The enclosure is ABS.Now my review engineer is against that, pointing out that once a ESD strike comes in, it lifts the CHGND high (or low) until the bleeding resistor discharges that. This makes the line we are trying to protect experience the high voltage relative to GND. (I simulated this for 8kV HBM pulse and the voltage rise was about 770V) Also not working for repetitive strikes.What do you guys think? Is it better to directly connect ESD return to system GND or AC couple?Thanks in advance,Kay
Connection Points for Prototype DC-DC Modules - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: OneGeekGuy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2020, 10:54:47 am
content: Hi,I am just developing DCDC converted based on LM25145 IC from Texas instruments and I would like to know your opinion about one topic that always make me doubt, which kind of connections should I use in this modules, talking about INPUT-OUTPUT, the main idea is to have enough current capability (2Amp output 16V and around 1.6A 20V input) and also good let's say....testing capability, in order to connect easily this module to power supply, load....I have seen different approaches:-- Using terminal block connectors THT , I don't really like to be using the screwdriver each time I would like to connect it...-- Using SMD big pads, and connect them with Crocodile Clips, the connection between is not the best-- Using 2mm banana holders or post , maybe the best connection and also easy way?Do you know if there is something like a....press fit connector but one which you could extract easily? What is your preferred connection? Solder some cables and that's all? Easy wayThanks for your comments.BR

author: OM222O
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2020, 11:04:41 am
content: If you don't require connection to wires: just use normal THT pads, with about 1mm hole on your module.Then for the actual PCB use some SMD pads that line up with the holes, place the module on top and solder it on.

author: Vovk_Z
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2020, 01:05:22 pm
content: It depends a bit on needed connection resistance too. There are a lot of options for currents less then 3 A, but they differ a lot with a value and stability of resistance connection. A starting point is NX2500 type connectors - they are suited for signal wires but may work up to 3A (but not good in real with > 0.5 A current).For high requirements I use 4.8 mm Faston or even 6.3 mm Faston. They are quite cheap, don't need a screw-driver, and give a quite tought connection (and fast). Only crimping tool is needed for many connectors (or only a soldering tool when few connectors). They require a comparable few PCB space too.There is 2.8 mm Faston too. It takes space a bit less then 4.8 or 6.3 mm.I started to use Fastons and are almost happy now (with all my strict requirements).

author: OneGeekGuy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2020, 02:11:31 pm
content: Quote from: Vovk_Z on August 20, 2020, 01:05:22 pmI never thought about use Faston connectors..., I will take a look at it, maybe I will try it.Quote from: OM222O on August 20, 2020, 11:04:41 amUmm, that is a good idea to fix different modules, I will take note! Now I am thinking more about stand-alone modules, to test them alone.ThanksBR

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 20, 2020, 03:53:46 pm
content: Another advantage of male Fastons is that one can solder to them directly, if desired. I believe that all males have a hole through the blade that can be used for the wire.
CONNECTION PROBELM IN CHARLIEPLEXING - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gsingh11
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2023, 04:09:20 pm
content: Hi , i am facing a problem regarding charlieplexing. actually i wanted to use charlieplexing to show levels of water but the problem is the leds need to be on the enclosure for display. So, how can i connect the leds to PCB while they are charlieplexed.

author: james_s
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 26, 2023, 05:36:35 pm
content: I don't understand the question. You connect the LEDs like you would connect any other component, by routing traces to them on the PCB. Can you explain more clearly where you are running into difficulty?
Connection to Electrodes on Glass - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: nickbild
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2019, 12:49:03 am
content: I need to make an electrical connection from electrodes on glass to a 22g wire.See attached image -- it's the internals of a Nokia 5110 LCD. At the bottom are the electrodes on the glass plate.Does anyone know a good way to make this connection? The electrodes are paper thin and the surrounding material is glass, so I don't think soldering is the answer.Thanks in advance!

author: OM222O
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2019, 12:54:10 am
content: you do have to solder them! but not with normal methods. usually a hot bar is used to solder a flex cable to it. your only other option is welding bond wire which can not be done in a home application.

author: nickbild
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2019, 12:58:41 am
content: Thanks for the info. I'm hoping there is a solution more within the reach of a low-skill hobbyist such as myself. Maybe something along the lines of conductive glue reinforced with epoxy might work? This is by no means for a commercial product.

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2019, 01:06:22 am
content: The 5110 LCD uses a zebra strip. You don't have the whole assembly.

author: nickbild
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2019, 01:24:11 am
content: I do have the full assembly, but I disassembled it.I don't want to connect to pads on a PCB, but rather connect to wires (I don't want a PCB behind the screen), so that's why I'm looking for an alternate connection method.

author: oPossum
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2019, 01:27:43 am
content: Z-Axis tape to a flex cable may work.https://www.adafruit.com/product/1656

author: nickbild
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2019, 10:19:30 am
content: That sounds way less tedious and error prone than my plan. I'll give it a try, thanks!

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2019, 10:29:29 am
content: conductive epoxy

author: nickbild
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 05, 2019, 10:32:43 am
content: Conductive epoxy/glue was one of my first thoughts too! I think the 1mm pitch may make that a bit challenging to do though, so I'm going to try z-axis tape first (which is new to me, but looks awesome). Maybe some non-conductive epoxy over the top if it needs more mechanical strength.
connector - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: michael1834
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 07, 2019, 01:17:10 pm
content: Hi, I am looking for a connector like in the attachment and a terminal block to it.can anyone help?

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2019, 01:37:28 pm
content: Looks like a 26-position "Centronics" connector.Search on that (and count the connections yourself to verify) and you should find options a-plenty.

author: Benta
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2019, 05:22:30 pm
content: Looks more like a "mini-Centronics", used for LCD screens. Search for DFP26 or DFP-26.

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2019, 06:14:09 pm
content: Could be. Didn’t include a pic of a banana for scale.

author: johnkenyon
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 07, 2019, 07:13:13 pm
content: I would suggest posting another picture, with a ruler/tape measure alongside to give an idea of the size.
Connector ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: YU7C
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 19, 2020, 06:30:22 pm
content: Hi,does anyone recognize type of connector or at least manufacturer?It's placed on rear of JBC DDE or similar soldering stations.Thanks,Vojislav

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 20, 2020, 09:07:28 pm
content: Looks like the Amphenol C091B, which seems to be incredibly common on soldering equipment. (I know Pace and Weller both use them, and I strongly suspect Ersa does too.) I don’t recognize the logo, so it could be a compatible connector by another company, which wouldn’t be surprising since these things are a type of DIN connector.

author: YU7C
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2020, 05:12:47 am
content: I found it.It's Binder made miniature circular connector:https://www.binder-connector.com/en/products/miniature-circular-connectors/bayonet-ip40-1/female-socket#9906240007

author: tooki
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 21, 2020, 09:05:26 am
content: Nice! From the looks of it, that product line is essentially identical to the C091B I mentioned. I’ll have to see if their plugs cost less than Amphenol’s, since I wanna build a foot pedal for my Pace station.

author: YU7C
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2020, 05:11:22 am
content: Binder can be found at Conrad, Buerklin, Farnell,... and Aphenol at Mouser,...
Connector Advice - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: gilbenl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2016, 08:51:50 pm
content: Working on a simple DAQ for some medical research that I'm doing. Need to connect some micro thermistors to my leads and then the leads to the DAQ. I need to be able to detach the sensor from the lead and the lead from the DAQ. Was going to do BNC, but that appears as though it will cost me ~$5/connection (2 connections per sensor, 4 sensors=$40 just in connectors).Anyone have some tips on cheap, rugged connectors suitable for in vivo research? No need to be waterproof but should not disconnect easily.Or...cheap BNCs?

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2016, 09:40:33 pm
content: Can you have many sensors going to 1 connector?Db-9, or its family.

author: _Andrew_
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 05, 2016, 10:06:53 pm
content: If it is just two pin locking connectors you need try looking up TE Connectivity Mini-Universal MATE-N-LOKSockets, plugs and the pins to go in them are sold separately but if you can find someone in your region that will sell small quantities then these could be significantly less costly.http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-172165-1.htmlhttp://www.te.com/usa-en/product-172343-1.html

author: gilbenl
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2016, 04:37:49 am
content: Quote from: _Andrew_ on January 05, 2016, 10:06:53 pmThis is a reasonable choice. Wrap them in cell-o-wrap during the experiments. However, they're not very skookum to quote some other guy.DB-9esque solutions not appropriate in this application, although bonus points for efficiency. Is there a locking form of RCA? Small is good, by the way. Using 22Ga shielded bipolar leads.

author: Tomorokoshi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2016, 06:06:43 am
content: I like these:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1803426/277-1221-ND/260589https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1827127/277-1191-ND/260559Four sets would run about $12 total.They are robust, and the friction connection holds well enough. Screw terminals make it easy to adapt. Saves a lot of labor over crimping pins.There are other sizes in both pitch and number of circuits.
Connector board for GPSDOs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: thinkfat
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: November 02, 2019, 06:03:22 pm
content: Hi,I'm thinking of designing a small connector board for those many Symmetricom/Trimble/Samsung/Whatnot surplus GPSDOs from EbayThe interface to the GPSDO will be only the 50pin FPC connector.I'm looking for suggestions on which signals and interfaces to break out. Also, I'm contemplating to throw in an adjustable buck converter since these boards are a bit finicky about their input voltage - some work with 5V, some want 5.5V or more.* Power input from a 12V plug pack, 5.5/2.1mm barrel jack* DB9 connector for the RS232 debug port* some connector for an LVTTL version of the same interface (using a MAX3232), shrouded pin header, maybe.* maybe break out all UARTs as LVTTL?I'm assuming that most people will connect a BNC-MCX pigtail for 10MHz and 1PPS, though the FPC has an LVTTL 10MHz, too.Looking for suggestions.
Connector contact plating suitable near lead-acid batteries? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: techydude
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 11, 2014, 09:44:57 am
content: In choosing an extra-low-voltage PCB-mounting connector that will be used in very close proximity to fumes associated with a lead-acid battery environment, is there a particular connector contact *plating* more suitable for this environment?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2014, 11:20:16 am
content: No, you should seal the connector with a potting compound, or have a sealed vented to the exterior compartment for the battery, with a sealed gland through the wall.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2014, 02:02:44 pm
content: Which is pretty much par for an automotive connector in any environment, acid fumes or otherwise..Technically, gold or platinum would be fine options, assuming acid can't get anywhere further up the connector. But it would be a pretty nasty connection with all the leakage from that acid spray. Sulfuric acid is a good electrolyte, and it does not evaporate.Tim

author: Niklas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2014, 02:09:50 pm
content: You should also consider the connector housing and wire insulation material. Will the PCB also be exposed to the fumes? Condensation + fumes = No good

author: Codemonkey
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 11, 2014, 02:42:17 pm
content: If you can, just stick some vents in the enclosure, job done. I spent 14 years working with emergency lighting systems, many of which consist of large metal cabinets full of Plante cells (big 200AH+ lead acid wet cells strung together to make a 110V battery). In the medium size units the batteries sat under a shelf with the electronics in the top. Other than the shelf and some vents, there was no extra effort made to separate the electronics from the gasses and these things would quite happily run for 20+ years with no apparent damage to the circuitry.If you're using sealed cells, there's not much to worry about. The smaller units consisted of a metal box with 2 x 12V 7Ah gell cells and a charge / control board sat right next to them. Again, just a few vents in the enclosure and that was it. Never saw any damage due to the batteries. If you're really worried, just smear a bit of silicone grease on them.
Connector Help [Solved] - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: alvarop
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2011, 09:57:43 am
content: I've been working with this board I'm trying to figure out what connectors it is using.Any tips would be appreciated, I'm not even sure what to search for.Thanks!

author: david77
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2011, 10:02:43 am
content: On the left hand side of the socket on the 2nd photo there's a marking. MX J (maybe L)?Take a good magnifying glass and look for other markings.

author: alvarop
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2011, 10:15:16 am
content: Quote from: david77 on June 22, 2011, 10:02:43 amI didn't even see that!A quick google search led me to the right result.They are Molex connectors #0541670208and #0537480208in case anyone is interested.Thanks for the help!

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2011, 10:59:12 am
content: have you traced the connectors where they are going? that can give you a clue like where's the power and ground pins, i/o signal etc. so you have better hint when you've found reference in the net.

author: alvarop
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2011, 12:21:00 pm
content: Quote from: Mechatrommer on June 22, 2011, 10:59:12 amThat will be the next step. I wanted to make sure we could get the connectors before doing any further work.

author: Mechatrommer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2011, 12:34:09 pm
content: Quote from: alvarop on June 22, 2011, 12:21:00 pmsorry i meant the socket, not connector. a simple continuity check with dmm and needle sharp probe on the "socket" and circuit is whats needed i think?
Connector help? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mattbrockuk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 13, 2019, 07:59:42 am
content: HiI've misplaced some cables for a piece of equipment, so hoping to make a new set up - but I'm struggling to identify the connector type used, I was hoping someone here might recognise it ...Its 50 pin, it has 2.54mm pitch and reminds me a lot of a d-type (even with the latching ears) but the top / bottom rows aren't offset like you'd normally see with a d-type connector...Thanks in advanceMatt.

author: loveny
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 13, 2019, 08:26:30 am
content: SCSI I think, I've got a piece of equipment with a 60 pin connector, never found the mating half (probably haven't looked very hard though).

author: LapTop006
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 05:23:47 am
content: Quote from: loveny on March 13, 2019, 08:26:30 amIt's certainly the *style* used for SCSI-II, however those were much smaller physically.

author: beanflying
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2019, 07:40:15 am
content: Try a search for Harting. Seems they are NLAhttps://in.rsdelivers.com/product/harting/60010505102/harting-female-50-pin-straight-through-hole-scsi/9231008

author: mattbrockuk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2019, 02:50:06 pm
content: Thanks guys - it does look very much like that Harting -at being NLAPondering about bodging in 2.54mm male header ....

author: Ranayna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 18, 2019, 09:43:46 pm
content: That is not a SCSI connector. The ones with the DSUB style plug have offset pin rows, and while i do not remember the pin count, i'm sure they also were smaller. The newer SCSI connectors have a smaller pin spacing, as is visible in the screenhot of beanflying. I think in his link the 2.54mm spacing refers to the PCB pins.Can you tell us what that card is? Looks like an old ISA bus card. I have never seen such a connector without offset pins.

author: jayeye
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2019, 02:45:08 am
content: Maybe if you had taken a better-framed, better-lit picture of the connector? I can't see *any* pins.

author: mattbrockuk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2019, 04:30:28 pm
content: Hi - your right its not male (pins) its female (sockets)
Connector help... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2016, 03:27:51 pm
content: Customer's looking at putting a crimp type plug into a one of these:http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-2-644489-6.htmlIf you're not familiar with the MTA-100 series, well... it's an IDC series only. And IDC sucks...The opening is the same size and shape as one of these,http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1375820-6.htmlexcept for those two blade protrusion things you can see in the picture. Yeah, those are surely designed intentionally to prevent using anything other than MTA series plugs on these friggin' headers...Semi-trivial solution:http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/harwin-inc/M20-1060600/952-2231-ND/3728195something like this. Unsuitable -- no locking tab/ramp.It would be great to avoid changing the header on the board.Thanks,Tim

author: chris_leyson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 15, 2016, 04:19:02 pm
content: You might get away with it, I would certainly check any 3D models to see if you have adequate clearance. However, as the recommended crimp housing, 06P MTA100 CONN ASSY 30AU, TE Part No. 3-644020-6, relies on friction locks for it to stay in place then substituting a Harwin crimp housing might not be the best idea.
Connector ID - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: May 29, 2014, 01:33:22 pm
content: Anyone recognise this connector range? It was fairly common in Japanese receivers & transceivers of the 70's & 80's; this particular one is from a Yaesu.They're 2.5mm metric pitch (i.e. not 0.1" / 2.54mm), and are listed in the Yaesu service manuals as "PI051-xxF" (where xx is the number of pins). Searching around that doesn't bring up a manufacturer or range/series designation, but does throw up a few used in other applications, and used/NOS suppliers with no stock. They're superficially similar to the Molex KK 5051 series, but not quite the same - the locator tabs / keys are on the same side as the slots/holes for the contact latching fingers and offset slightly differently (in line with the side of the end holes rather than the centre), and the location of the holes w.r.t. the long sides is different.The pictures are of the female connector, but I'm mainly after male board headers/connectors to suit in 4, 5, 8, 12, and 13 pin versions. Ideally I'd like ones that respect the keying of the female plug - if I can't find that, I'll take a matching 2.5mm header with a friction fit or latch. Worst comes to worst, I can use open header pins in 2.5mm pitch.Any pointers?
connector id - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: loop123
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2024, 09:36:04 am
content: I'm repairing something. What exactly is this 6 pin connector called? I need one with wires already. Thanks.

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2024, 09:47:13 am
content: Molex KK

author: Terry Bites
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2024, 05:34:18 pm
content: Yep. A classic "Molex KK". There are plenty of second source suppliers too. eg Multicomp. A crimper and crimp pins are needed. I use dirt cheap tool:https://uk.farnell.com/duratool/8pk-033-f/crimp-tool-wire-stripper/dp/3127424?st=Crimping+Tool,A real molex tool will cost $300 and can crush and rip your flesh if you're not careful. Evil.Learn to crimp correctly see:
Connector ID Help Please........ - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jsantoro
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2016, 09:05:31 pm
content: Hi All,I'm building an engine simulator. The display I'm using has this type of connector. Does anyone know the type or a way to ID it? I tried lookng on Mouser and Digikey but there are tens of thousands. Any help is appreciated.Thanks,Jim

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 24, 2016, 09:31:23 pm
content: JST XH ( 2.5mm pitch) or PH ( 2mm pitch)
Connector ID - PLC cable - AL-232cab - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: jdev99
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2024, 10:51:28 am
content: I am looking for a connector to try to make a programming cable for a little Mitsubishi Alpha2 PLC.What is this connector called?Thank you for any assistance.Joe

author: jdev99
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 05, 2024, 10:48:56 am
content: Anybody, any idea ??

author: RitschRatsch
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 05, 2024, 07:26:22 pm
content: I can't think of anything right off the bat, but I always use GoogleLens or AliExpress Photo import for these kinds of questions. What we'd need now are some details, like pitch and contact size.With kind regardsRitschRatsch

author: HwAoRrDk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2024, 06:49:24 am
content: Given that it's a Mitsubishi PLC, looking at Japanese-made connectors is likely to give results. JST, Hirose, etc. Maybe also Molex, as some of their stuff is designed in Japan.Do some basic measurements - pin pitch, receptacle width/height, etc. Basically any attribute that will allow you to narrow down to certain product lines.

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 06, 2024, 04:44:21 pm
content: maybe hirose DF12 xx DF37 xxhttps://www.tme.eu/en/details/df12nb3040ds05v_c/board-to-board-connectors/hirose/df12nb-3-0-40ds-0-5v-51/and yes many things to measure ...https://www.digikey.com.au/en/products/detail/hirose-electric-co-ltd/DF12NC-3-0-14DS-0-5V-51/13546966or hirose DF17 series or FX10A serieshttps://www.mouser.ca/new/hirose/hirose-df17-series-board-to-board-connectors/
connector id - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: mukymuk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2013, 08:53:55 pm
content: Can anyone tell me the name of the connector in the picture?

author: David_AVD
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2013, 09:17:37 pm
content: If you want the exact series, that will be hard. There are a few very similar types with different pin spacing and housing shape. A better photo (with it unplugged) will help too.

author: mukymuk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 01:38:49 am
content: I'm pretty sure the pins are on 2.54mm centers.

author: Rufus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 02:24:14 am
content: Quote from: mukymuk on March 24, 2013, 01:38:49 amMight be JST XH series which would be 2.5mm pitch.http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=277

author: mukymuk
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 25, 2013, 03:22:01 am
content: I think that's it. Thanks!
Connector identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: dmm27
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 13, 2019, 12:22:41 am
content: Hi there,Newbie to the forums here.Could anyone identify the manufacturer and part number (if possible) of some AEN connectors (images attached)?I've been through the Bulgin, and some of the Element14 and Weidmuller on-line catalogues, but haven't had any luck identifying them.I'm hoping that someone else would have better luck. There's an unusual slash symbol, together with a "3" underneath the connectorwhich is unfamiliar, maybe indicating a Chinese manufacturer.ThanksDavid

author: tsman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2019, 01:27:01 am
content: Logo isBELEKSwhich is Jiangmen Krealux Electrical Appliances Co., Ltd. Some variant of theirPS1-03 connector. Good luck actually buying any though...

author: SiliconWizard
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2019, 01:39:17 am
content: Looks like you can find those on Alibaba:https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Manufacturer-3-pole-Male-Female-Square_60453225804.html
Connector Identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: MomoSapiens
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 19, 2019, 05:12:39 pm
content: Hi,Can someone help me identify this connector? It looks like a regular PCB pin socket strip, but it isn't.The pitch is 1.2 mm, and the pins are 0.9 mm thick and 3.0 mm long.Any help would be very much appreciated.Cheers
Connector identification - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: PP3331
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2020, 06:34:01 am
content: Hi. Can anyone identify this connector (image attached). This "appears" to contain four male pins though the connector itself appears to be female. I can see four leads on the PC board in its vicinity, though that of course doesn't guarantee the pin count. I'd like to identify this connector and especially its mate so that I can obtain one -- ideally with a ribbon or other cable already attached since it appears that dealing with those very small pins would not be easy if I had to assemble the mating connector myself. This connector is very approximately 1cm across at its widest point. The actual opening is extremely narrow vertically relative to the PC board -- I don't have a good way to measure it. Thanks very much!

author: PP3331
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 15, 2020, 07:57:23 pm
content: Here are a couple of much better shots, top and side. Definitely looks like four pins. Thanks!

author: PP3331
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 16, 2020, 03:11:40 am
content: For the record, I believe I've identified the required mate for the mystery connector on the board. I can't 100% verify pin pitch but I'm pretty sure I'm right. The needed connector looks to be the Molex 511460400 (0400 for 4 pins). This is an empty connector that requires separate pins to be inserted. Hopefully I'll be able to verify this identification fairly soon when I get hold of one -- they appear to be quite widely sourced. Thanks all for your help!
Connector identification help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: KaneTW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2019, 05:29:56 pm
content: I'm trying to find the connector type used in the image below. It's a 5-pin ProMinent control cable (https://www.prominent.com/en/Products/Spare-Part-Details/accg-signal-cable-low-pressure-pumps.html)

author: KaneTW
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 21, 2019, 06:13:27 pm
content: Looks like a B-coded 5 position M12.
Connector identification help - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: IO390
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 28, 2024, 05:58:00 pm
content: This is from a French made 1970s military helicopter. These appear to be individual pin header rows with a4mm pitch.Does anyone know what brand these might be? If not available we may look at finding compatible pins and then 3d printing the housing.Thanks in advance.
Connector identification, HP printer m452dn - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: hoaxparagon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 17, 2020, 04:01:43 am
content: The attached photo shows the connector in question. I've been through digikey for a couple hours now looking through the rectangular connectors with a 1 row 7 position filter but found nothing. My best guess for its use is as a programming/debugging port. I'm going to start having a play with printers in an effort to save people money on these things. It's a shame the way printer manufacturers do business.Can anyone identify the connector type and possible pinout? It's located underneath the printer where I nearly missed it. Notice the keying to the top, left and right of the pins.My assumption is that it's some JTAG or serial port for an embedded micro but I'd like to find a connector first to sniff at signals. I'd rather not tear the thing down either if I don't have to; I hate toner and it's got way too many parts to keep track of.Also, if anyone has links to resources about pre-existing REing work done on printers I'd be very grateful. Searching, even with ad blocking plugins, leads me straight back to the manufacturers and using a '-site:hp something something dot com' modifier yields very little.Thank you.

author: Mr.B
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 17, 2020, 05:15:34 am
content: Sorry, I cannot tell you what the connector is, but I can tell you what it is used for.It is the connector that mates with the optional expansion paper tray.It may or may not have any intelligent comms.More likely just a connector to the motors and sensors in the paper tray.Here is the document on how to physically install the paper tray.It doesn't specifically mention the connector, but the pictures imply a connector riser sticking up in some drawings.http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c04709958

author: hoaxparagon
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 17, 2020, 06:11:04 am
content: Thank you for that info. I saw it and instantly my mind went to production programming. I guess the next step is a tear down.
Connector identification please - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2019, 06:51:14 pm
content: What are these connectors called? (Blue and Green ones)Yes, I do not the shiny one is called BNC!

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2019, 07:35:34 pm
content: Looks likePhoenix Contact MC 1.5/2Or any of the clones.

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2019, 07:41:09 pm
content: Pitch is 1.25mm.

author: Buriedcode
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2019, 08:18:35 pm
content: Quote from: tkamiya on April 07, 2019, 07:41:09 pmIt really doesn't look like 1.25mm pitch to me. It does indeed look like a pluggable terminal block. A 3.5mm pitch one at that.

author: tkamiya
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2019, 09:06:11 pm
content: Oh, crap.... My caliper wasn't zero'd, and it's hard to measure. It is likely:Now, I'm seeing 0.125" or 3.52mm
Connector Identification/Equivalient - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Buriedcode
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2022, 09:40:16 pm
content: Hi,I am trying to find a suitable replacement connector in the picture attached (the green thing).The closest I can find is a Monacor CN-11J:https://www.monacor.com/products/components/cables-and-plug-in-connectors/plugs-and-inline-jacks/cn-11j/Clones of which I have ordered from CPC:https://cpc.farnell.com/unbranded/cn-11j/2pin-power-socket/dp/CN05943?ost=cn-11jNow, the important parameters likepitch,pin sizeanddistance between mounting holesare the same. But the panel cutout has different dimensions, and the original has a greater depth and smaller recess - so original plugs used on the replacement (CN-11J) are far from a snug fit. Whilst I'm fairly sure the CN-11J is a suitable substitute I was wondering if anyone had seen the original connector anywhere? As its just a two pole connector, search terms are far too generic, and an image search hasn't provided any results. If it helps I have only seen the original connectors in that lime green colour.I have to replace a fair few, so widening the panel cutout isn't ideal, but its only 2mm each way.
Connector logo - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: martinw
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: May 31, 2017, 12:50:10 pm
content: HelloCan anyone identify the manufacturer's logo in the attached image. It is from a magjack inside an Ethernet switch.ThanksMartin

author: KMoffett
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: June 06, 2017, 08:40:03 pm
content: Can you post a photo of the connector?Ken
Connector Make? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: johnnyfp
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 08, 2014, 04:31:16 am
content: I'm trying to identify what make this connector is and comming up short on what potentially to look up,It's a 2.54mm spaced female connector with LXH and J2 writing on each tab. It takes a crimpted insert for each wire and clips into a Male equivilant that has a level latch, so is a Cable to Cable connector.It's larger than a JST and the closest i've found isthisone but it doesn't have the wings or the locking bevel at the front.Any ideas?Cheers
Connector name? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: salviador
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 10:44:47 am
content: Hi,How is called the black connector?It is mounted sulla hoverboard engine

author: CM800
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 12:17:19 pm
content: The best thing you can do is go onto Farnell or Mouser, go to their connectors pageSelect all connectors with the same pin pitch & number of contactsthen select the specific manufactuer (if it is printed on the connector)then look through the list for ones the look similar and compare. It's what I usually do and I've got a pretty good track record doing it.

author: KMoffett
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2017, 09:05:25 pm
content: Looks like automotive connectors. But since your picture came from a scooter page that would be a search term. The ones on the right are referred to as male bullet connectors. The ones on the left are referred to as modular connectors here:https://www.google.com/search?q=scooter+connectors&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiel_qv4erRAhUI6mMKHXe3Bz4Q_AUICSgC&biw=1489&bih=887#imgrc=88dpQ97ZsXj0JM%3AKen
Connector on Lowrance power/RS422 cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: Emil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 01, 2016, 09:11:40 pm
content: I guess this is a custom connector, but if it's not:Does anyone know the manufacturer/part number of the connector used on the power/RS422 cable used on Lorance HDI/Elite/Hook sonars (cable PN 000-0127-49)?(I have a attached a picture.)

author: bicc1306
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 30, 2016, 03:00:57 pm
content: I found this cable on amazon and ebay.https://www.amazon.com/Lowrance-HDS-Elite-HDI-Power-Cable/dp/B002BBGOG0http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lowrance-OEM-Power-Cable-for-All-HDS-Elite-HDI-Hook-Fishfinder-PC-30-RS422/252407277547?_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D38530%26meid%3Dcba01d1dfdeb4ce28aa264dc5e2a029f%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D191546596518
Connector options for tiling (tesselating) pcbs - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 07:26:52 am
content: I feel like I'm missing something stupidly obvious here.Imagine some pcbs that you want to "tile" edge to edge with pluggable connection, without wires.Standard 2.54mm right angle headers are the obvious but wrong solution, as shown in the attached photo the male headers are of course offset higher than the female ones and so your tiled boards are on different levels, which is no good.I've never seen female right angle headers which are lifted, and I've never seen male right angle headers which are flush.Ideas?

author: armandas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 08:21:32 am
content: There are two versions of right-angle header. You need one like this:

author: BiOzZ
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 04:32:23 pm
content: you can also get a straight header and solder it on top of the pads

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 09:15:06 pm
content: Quote from: armandas on January 27, 2014, 08:21:32 amHmm, I'd never come across those with the plastic block on the "long" side. Seems that they are referred to as low profile at least in english (I havn't found what they are called in China yet), but not anywhere near as common as standard ones.Quote from: BiOzZ on January 27, 2014, 04:32:23 pmHmm maybe SMD right angle headers would work, they look close to low profile.