What are the best methods or tools for desoldering? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Red Squirrel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 07:04:56 am
content: I've been looking at desolder pumps but it seems most of them have a plastic tip, isin't that going to just melt over time? I recently bought one that had a metal tip, but it turned out it was falsely advertised, it looks like it's actually a manual SMD pick and place tool. I suppose it will come in handy if I get into SMD work so still nice to have on hand.I'm looking at this tool here:http://abra-electronics.com/soldering/desoldering-irons/dsld-115-portable-electric-desoldering-pump-dsld-115.htmlDoes that look good for desoldering? How does it work, guessing it has a built in vacuum that sucks the solder out and I can just empty out the beeds once they harden?I know there's desoldering braid too, but not a fan of using something that's consumable, I just want a tool that will have virtually unlimited uses.More or less I just want something fairly versatile and easy so I can quickly desolder entire circuit boards and keep the components. Might even go to the recyclers to see if they'll let me salvage stuff like TV circuit boards.

author: ivaylo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 07:32:50 am
content: What is your price range (when you see the prices on some of those things you may embrace the consumable braid)? SMD or through hole?

author: Red Squirrel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 07:54:59 am
content: Through hole for now, I don't want to spend over 100 bucks, and even at that range it better be really good!I actually saw on a video someone was using a solder iron then a blast of compressed air, sounds interesting but then you end up with solder all over your work area, probably not good if that manages to get inside something electronic.

author: ivaylo
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 08:03:36 am
content: People have been recommending this thing on another thread herehttp://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-45-watt-desoldering-iron/6402060.html#.VR5I84ZHarU

author: BradC
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 08:08:47 am
content: Most of the guys that seem to harvest parts seem to use a heat gun.Personally as far as de-soldering goes I have an Aoyue 701+ with an adapter to use genuine Hakko nozzles and I love it, but I know people rag on the Aoyue stuff and I had to put quite a lot of work into it to bring it up to standard.- Hakko filters, pipe & spring- Hakko nozzles- Custom adapter from Hakko nozzles to fit the Aoyue- Dismantle and re-seal the pump (just a smear of neutral cure silicone on all the gasket surfaces- Calibrate the temperature with a tip thermometerIf I could have found a second hand Hakko I would have bought that, but pickings are slim in Western Australia.When I bought the Aoyue the tips were awful. So bad they could not even be tinned. The tips I bought to scrap to make the Hakko adapters actually turned out to be much better, but I'd already bought the Hakko tips and they are stunning.I have a 968 hot air station also, but for through hole stuff I much prefer the 701.The tips on the manual solder suckers are plastic, but generally high temperature teflon and tend to last quite a long time.

author: Red Squirrel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 09:14:07 am
content: I do have a Hakko soldering station, is it just the thing of using a special tip?Heat gun sounds interesting too and I have one, will it actually get stuff hot enough to melt solder, without damaging the part though? I imagine it would heat a larger area so you can pull out multi mosfet assemblies and such with much better ease. I never even thought of trying that.I'm in Canada though so my selection of stuff is more limited, but heat gun does have me intrigued I never even considered that.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 09:42:37 am
content: Solder suckers have PTFE tips that can withstand normal soldering temperatures. PTFE melts at 327 °C. Most soft solders melt at under 250 °C. If you are careful with the amount of pressure you use, trim ragged edges occasionally and don't scrub the tip around on the joint, you'll be able to desolder thousands or tens of thousands of joints with the same tip. They are relatively easy to maintain - just keep the tip unblocked and the chamber emptied and clean the spring and O rings or lip seal on the plunger once the suction starts to drop, then apply one drop of light silicone oil to the O rings or lip seal. A few disks of paper that are a very close fit to the chamber bore added between the spring and the plunger help keep solder away from the plunger seal and significantly extend the cleaning interval.Desoldering irons/guns are another matter. Tip life is often poor as if there is any scratch in the plating the solder erodes the underlying copper and thetips are invariably expensive. Its also a PITA keeping them tinned and the solder collection chamber and filters are high maintenance items. I don't think that any of the ones without an external motorised vacuum pump are worth owning - even if you were given ihem free!

author: dexters_lab
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 09:48:34 am
content: i found a solder sucker with a soft silicone tip, makes it nice and compliant so you get a good seal around the joint/soldering iron tip

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 09:57:44 am
content: Quote from: dexters_lab on April 03, 2015, 09:48:34 amThe bottom one here?http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/ss01e.htmlI have that, works kinda ok, but would be nice if it had same size as normal ones for more air to suck

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 10:03:17 am
content: I just use the PTFE tips with an external vulcanised rubber sleeve ( common as rubber wiring insulation that Hellerman supplies that you place with a 3 jaw plier) that simplt is a slip over sleeve. Lasts a long time, and when it wears you just flip it over, then trim the ends off till it is too short to hold to the PTFE sleeve. While they do wear with solder temperature they improve the vacuum quite well.

author: Refrigerator
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 10:04:03 am
content: I use a little butane torch, makes it so easy to take out chips without heating them up (instantly melts solder on all the pins) , of course this method burns the board but most of the time i need the part not the board.

author: KJDS
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 11:49:03 am
content: The best tool I've used is a Pace desoldering station.A hellerman sleeve on a standard solder pump gives a much better seal around the joint and more solder is sucked up.I don't see any value in removing components for reuse unless they are something special or you happen to have a scrap board lying there with a component you need now.

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 12:45:54 pm
content: Quote from: ivaylo on April 03, 2015, 08:03:36 amI had one for quite a long time. Frustrating to use. When I got a ZD-985 as a Christmas present, I got rid of it.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 05:05:55 pm
content: The tips are replaceable, or at least they should be. In practice, they are not going to melt, but eventually will deform.Think about it, if the tip were made of metal, it would suck the heat out of the joint and the solder would freeze.It depends on what you intend to desolder. I have a Hakko 707 vintage hipster desoldering gun from the 1970s. It works fine but as others said, it's a fiddly thing, you need to choose the right tip so you don't destroy the board, the nozzle needs constant cleaning, the solder catcher needs constant emptying. Like a real gun, I suppose, it needs constant cleaning.I use it to remove through hole parts from boards I intend to re-use.The manual pumps work well but also have cleaning problems, but they get you there. They're a bit rougher because when the spring releases the nozzle moves around.Wick is useful for SMT parts, or cleaning out tabs and what not. Heat guns or propane blowtorches (use outside, please) are good for harvesting chips from garbage boards. I used to remove RAM from video boards that way.

author: nctnico
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2015, 12:04:47 am
content: I have a solder pump but I don't use it. The problem is that in many cases the solder isn't sucked form a hole entirely. I mostly use 'Chemtronics Soder Wick' (*) to remove solder from holes AFTER I removed the component(s) using hot air. Using hot air to preheat the board before using soder wick helps a lot as well.* It is expensive but be sure to get the 'real deal' because it's worth every cent.

author: FANISHKA
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 04, 2015, 10:43:22 am
content: I think I can share my method for desoldering. Just use a GOOT solder sucker model:GS-100. Here's a trick, just find any flyback used in CRT tv and cut the anode cap. Then take only the tube part and insert it on the tip of your desoldering tool. This will do the sealing around the area plus it will give you a cushion on the board. In my experience theres no other method better than this.

author: Red Squirrel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2015, 12:43:05 am
content: Just tried heat gun, it actually worked wonderfully for larger components like chokes, relays, transformers and such, even MOVs just fall right out as I heat the area, maybe have to shake the board a little. I think I may have killed most of the small components like small capacitors though.Those are easy enough to take out with just the solder iron though, so idealy I'd probably take those out first if I want to save them. There's a mosfet arrangement on this particular board, which may prove to be a challenge though, I may have killed them all already.Was mostly just messing around anyway. I may have to cut the heat sinks out first then I can work on each mosfet individually.It smells funny in my house now. I should probably wait till summer and do these kinds of things outside.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2015, 01:51:58 am
content: A preheater is a basic part of a good soldering kit

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 05, 2015, 01:57:02 am
content: Quote from: Red Squirrel on April 05, 2015, 12:43:05 amIt is very hard to kill passive components actually.

author: aargee
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2015, 06:13:55 am
content: Through hole components:Single sided boards; soldering iron, wick and/or solder sucker. Vacuum de-soldering station.Simple double sided; as above but with more patience.SMD: Hot air gun, rework station. Use stainless steel tweezers.Boards with lots of copper in ground planes or power traces: Hot air gun at the right temperature and patience. Preheat and use the above.For all multi-way connectors, ribbon connectors, IC sockets, large toroids - nothing beats a solder pot used carefully. Near instant solder melt and removal.Lead free is a pain in the proverbial, step up all of the above a notch.Sacrificing the component: cut away as much as you can with a side cutter and desolder the remains, this preserves the PCB and traces.Patience is the best skill. Do not try and yank components free until you're sure the solder is fluid. I usually observe the solder melting then count to ten before removing.Try not to have the temps up too high, burning PCB material (fibreglass, phenolic, etc) is not good for you. Good ventilation is essential.

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2015, 11:36:26 am
content: interresting method, littlebit fiddly but:http://www.instructables.com/id/Little-trick-for-desoldering-through-hole-componen/

author: Fat
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2015, 03:36:08 pm
content: Quote from: neslekkim on April 05, 2015, 11:36:26 amWow, I'd REALLY need that part before I'd go though all that setup to get it. I've salvaged a lot of parts in my time, but have come to realize it's a lot more efficient for me to just buy them new.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2015, 06:53:38 pm
content: I took a brief look. OSHA or HSE would do their nuts if you ever tried it in a commercial or educational workshop. Its as bad as flicking solder off your iron over your shoulder!Its also highly likely to damage components as if the joints don't melt at exactly the same moment, the part is highly likely to get the remaining lead sharply bent wher it exits the body, which if done while hot usually destroys many types of plastic or resin encapsulated parts and often damages small radial footprint coils and caps.

author: Red Squirrel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2015, 07:26:12 pm
content: I tend to just put a screw driver in there and shake it around gently till it gets loose. With the heat gun bigger stuff was falling off the board.Going to wait till summer and do the rest outside though. It still smells like the wong hung lo factory in here.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2015, 07:55:17 pm
content: Quote from: Red Squirrel on April 05, 2015, 07:26:12 pmYou mean the Hu Flun Dung recycled plastics and toxic waste disposal factory . . . . .Various tools like these:http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-solder-assist-tool-set-with-carry-pouch/6400087.htmlcan help with component removal though I tend to make my own starting from a pound/dollar store set of all-metal 'precision' 'jewelers' screwdrivers and re-grinding the ends into various knife edges, points, V grooves etc. I also use needles and various hook and scraper tools made from stainless wire and thin narrow stainless strip (salvaged from car wiper blades epoxy set in handles made from 1/4" wooden dowel.A set of these brushes:http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IUGYADEis also useful. The steel and fiberglass ones can be used to sweep most of the solder away from molten joints before going in with braid. The brass one isn't suitable for that as the solder will tin and clog it. Best to have a spare for the fibreglass one as it also gets used as an abrasive and repeatedly winding it in and out and scrubbing with it breaks off the bristles prematurely. One set short for cold scrubbing, and one set long for lightly brushing solder out the way vastly extends the life of both.

author: timofonic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 09:45:57 am
content: I find soldering pumps too dirty and hurting my thumbs a lot.I'll look at the mentioned alternatives, thanks!

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 12:15:31 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on April 05, 2015, 07:55:17 pmYou should also be able to find various dental picks at the local flea market. I have a few of them and they are handy for lots of things.

author: Howardlong
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 12:54:27 pm
content: For through hole, ZD-985 or look alike?http://youtu.be/Ft50m8UU5WQIn Europe they can be had for GBP66 inc. VAT, which, without VAT, Is about CAD102.http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xzd-985.TRS0&_nkw=zd-985&_sacat=0I don't use one, I have a Weller DSX 80, but from the video Dave did the ZD-985 seems to perform pretty well when desoldering. I wouldn't want to go back to a manual pump.

author: Red Squirrel
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 08, 2015, 05:43:10 pm
content: I ended up just buying a regular manual solder sucker, I figure I'll start with that. I just made sure to find one that also has replacement tips available. Went with this one:http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0025Q8UHW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00Will go well for the small stuff, and the heat gun method for the bigger stuff.