Neat front panels - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / projects

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 04:25:06 pm
content: I have been trying to put a couple of projects I have in boxes and make them neat.So far I have been using Plastic Project boxes and have been installing...LCD Displays, small TFT Displays (60mmx42mm), Buttons, LEDs etc..... and they look Pants!Firstly I don't seem to be able to cut straight edges so the displays have uneven gaps around. The buttons aren't so bad since they screw on and have a rim that covers the bodging.I haven't even started to think about labelling the switches etc.Anyone care to share how they make their projects looks OK? i.e. not like mine!Thanks

author: ChristofferB
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 04:40:40 pm
content: A dremel with a cutting wheel would make great straight holes and slots. You could also drill a larger hole (inside your cutout area!) and use a file to make a square corner. Then use a hacksaw blade to cut the line. Maybe a nibbling tool - it makes a square cut and should chew easily through plastics.It doesn't take that big a thickness though, since it's designed for plate aluminum and the like.Or simplest: just make your ugly holes 2-3mm too small and then finish off with a file, grinding the hole to size and neatness.--Christoffer

author: Lovely_Santa
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 04:50:36 pm
content: Hey,I don't have a lot of experience with making boxes (becose I don't have that much projects..)For beginners (like myself) I would recommend to cut with a handsaw... draw a line on the inside with permanent marker (so it's a nice thick line). Cut in the middle of the line, so when you have cut the holes out for your LCD's you still have that line on it.. Then take sandpaper and make it even until you see almost no marker anymore.. Then you have a nice straight edge...For buttons it's most likely just drilling a hole.. I know it's hard to do it in plastic.. Mostly I drill first with a 2mm drill (= 0.04 inch) and then I use 3 or 4 more drills before I am at the final diameter...For labels, I like to print them out on paper, just normal paper, becose my writing is worse than bad... Then I use double-sided adhesive tape to get it in place... If you want, you can plasticize the labels.. But I don't need that...For LEDs, I just use a LED holder, and just mount it like a button...For example: My first project of all times was a stupd ATX power supply (that I never use anymore)Kind regards,Lovely Santa

author: edpalmer42
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 04:55:22 pm
content: If you want a professional-looking front panel, Google forcustom front panel. You'll find lots of companies that will make custom front panels. Some provide the software to design the panel, select the material and colors, give you a price, and submit the order to the factory. Yes, the cost can be significant, but you end up with an amazing front panel. Just the thing for a special project.Ed

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 06:35:01 pm
content: Years ago we made one of a kind machines. We has a local engraving company machine in the names. The back panel would be painted first. That would be filled in with various colored paints and backlit. Almost everyone has access to small CNC machining now. These panels looked fantastic.

author: Koen
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 08:55:38 pm
content: Order the panels as 2-layers PCB for 10 USD.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 09:09:03 pm
content: I've not used a professional panel maker or a CNC, and agree display surrounds are a real PITA. Esp as I don't won't mounting bolts etc nearby, it tends to be the visual focus for the unit. Mostly I have used aluminium boxes and used nibblers or a fine fret saw for cutting the hole for displays. The hardest issue I find is not scratching the panel as you work on it. One trick I have found, esp for a black panel, is to texta the edge with a black colour, it makes any subtle variances disappear.I also use Letraset to finish it off. e.g. below

author: Wilksey
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 09:14:56 pm
content: I've seen others recommend the following (might be the same company as the websites look the same, apart from colour):https://www.frontpanelexpress.com/-or-https://www.schaeffer-ag.de/en/

author: NivagSwerdna
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 09:28:57 pm
content: Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to try a few of those!

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 09:34:33 pm
content: I took the high price approach and built up a CNC machine from a Grizzly 0704 Mill.I designed the panel with AutoCAD, worked up the drill schedule using CamBam and did the work with Mach 3. The nice thing is that all those little index holes, often omitted on hand-built panels are really no extra effort. Nor is driling a large hole for a panel meter. I needed the pin jacks spaced exactly 1" apart so I could use dual plugs. I wanted the pattern to look perfect. No misaligned jacks...I cut two layers of thin, clear, plexiglass. My CAD drawing had all the labels so I sandwiched a printed sheet between the layers. It came out pretty slick.Yes, this is completely irrational except that I now have a CNC mill, which I wanted for other purposes, and I have the ability to make whatever panels come along.

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 09:53:04 pm
content: Quote from: rstofer on April 02, 2016, 09:34:33 pmPics please! Or it didn't happen O0Quote from: rstofer on April 02, 2016, 09:34:33 pmSee above!

author: dadler
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 10:00:32 pm
content: Quote from: Koen on April 02, 2016, 08:55:38 pm+1E.g.http://youtu.be/fk8GCKO5mw4

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 10:18:21 pm
content: Quote from: apelly on April 02, 2016, 09:53:04 pmI would be happy to post pictures if I knew how! I don't have a site for hosting them and I'm not certain if I can attach them within the forum. I don't have pictures of the mill - look on the Grizzly.com site and imagine a PC tower on a table alongside with the drivers inside the box. I used a small boxed PC from Logic Supply and mounted it inside the tower on a swing out panel. Oh, and imagine a flat panel monitor sitting on top of the tower. The control part is not very interesting...It's the panel that is worth showing. I like it a lot!I'm open to suggestions re: photos. I'm just new here and have no idea what I'm doing!

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 10:31:15 pm
content: Quote from: rstofer on April 02, 2016, 10:18:21 pmWhen you post there's an option below the input box; "attachments and other options". click it and choose the browse button to select your pics from your PC. Be aware that "maximum total size 2000KB, maximum individual size 1000KB"

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 10:37:41 pm
content: OK, here we go and thanks for the tip!

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 10:40:23 pm
content: Quote from: rstofer on April 02, 2016, 10:37:41 pmYou're welcome.And well done! That is a thing of beauty!What the hell is it for?

author: rstofer
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2016, 10:54:24 pm
content: Quote from: apelly on April 02, 2016, 10:40:23 pm

author: pmbrunelle
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2016, 02:24:20 am
content: I built a speaker testing jig. It works with a computer (Speaker Workshop software), and it has some user-switchable configurations...The front panel is 1/4" PVC sheet, CNC engraved with a 1/16" endmill. I filled the grooves with bright red paint, and then wiped the excess from the surface with kerosene.

author: packetbob
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2016, 06:16:40 am
content: I use a drawing program (I use Visio but there are many alternatives) to make up a label for the front panel. Then I print it out on large white shipping label stock (white paper with a self adhesive backing). I then use self adhesive clear laminating sheets to give a protective layer on top of the printed label. Then I cut out the label to the size I want and stick it to the case.You can cover the whole panel and have your controls/indicators mount through it (like the cable tester example) or just stick the label beside the controls (like the boiler monitor). If you mount the various controls through the label you get the advantage of being able to use it as a template for drilling.I find this is a quick way to get a inexpensive but decent looking labelling...

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2016, 08:38:38 am
content: To cut straight rectangular holes:1) Cut your hole roughly to size using files, hacksaws or, if it's plastic, melting around the edges2) Get a short length of tool steel about 5mm square on the ends and clamp it to your work along the bottom of one of the holes. Make sure that the tool steel is level.3) Work on the hole with a file until you hit the tool steel then file along its length. Because your steel guide is so hard it won't let you go beyond this point and the result is a beautiful straight filed line4) Repeat for the other three edges.Labelling Front PanelsLayout your front panel using MS Paint, Viseo, GIMP, Photoshop or even MS Excel and then take the file to your local print shop. They can print on 200gsm card which is just the right thickness.Cutting a Straight Line of Holes in a Panel1) Scribe a straight line on your panel using either a scribing tool or a pair of callipers. Callipers are better because you can set exactly the right distance then run them along one edge.2) Measure along the line where you want to drill your holes and mark the points with a pencil or 0.5mm marker pen.3) Using a hand punch and good lighting carefully punch the center of each mark. Just a tap from the hammer will be enough if you are machining aluminum or plastic.4) Drill your holes. A pillar drill is best but if you don't have one a Dremel gives better control than an electric drill with a handle. Drill at low speed.The Golden RuleTake your time and don't rush. Five minutes extra getting it right is better than two hours filling in the hole and then redrilling it.

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2016, 02:57:16 pm
content: You can kill a couple of birds with one stone when hand cutting aluminum panels by printing your layout on a large sheet of label paper. Gives you cutting guides and protects the surface finish of the panel. Just peel it off when done cutting. The more you do this the more accurate you will be, but even the pros with lots of practice tend to do a rough cut close to the final dimension and then file or sand to final dimension. The difference between the beginner and the pro is the amount of filing and the pro will have no divots where they went over the line.

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 03, 2016, 09:00:26 pm
content: Some of these comments reminded me of the old saying "measure once cut twice, measure twice cut once"

author: apelly
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 03, 2016, 09:38:04 pm
content: Panels always turn into a disaster for me too. I've never got the right drill size, hole saw, cutting wheel, orsomething.Since this thread started I've been thinking the best strategy is probably to ask around local light engineering companies until you find someone that can just process your cad file onto aluminium. If it's a small enough run, a personal project, for a hobby, there's no rush, and you're not a wanker, I reckon you'd find someone who'd do it for a box of beer plus materials. And I bet they'd be happy to talk shop for a while too. Double win.

author: Corporate666
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 03, 2016, 10:29:14 pm
content: Most of the tips above are just about everything you need to know to get great results.A few that stand out-Center punch every drill hole. You simply cannot get a drill on center without a center punched hole-Use a file to get square edges. The larger the file, the more straight (or rounded, with a round file) the result-Drill undersize and check location. If you're off a little, then use the file to expand the hole in the correct direction for perfect results-If you drill undersize and are on location, final drill by taking only a small cut. You will get a nicer finish.-Use cutting fluid for drilling-Chamfer your edges-Use the right tools. Don't chamfer with a larger drill bit - use an actual chamfer drill, or you will tear up the hole edges-Lay out everything first with a carbide scribe and don't try to hit your scribe marks with power tools (except maybe a drill) or you WILL go over and get a squint cut-out in the end.My biggest tip....-Do your layout on the computer. AutoCAD, Photoshop, or even your PCB software. Print it out onto a transparency. Use adhesive spray to stick it to the surface you're going to cut, or if it's a metal panel, use an iron to transfer the marks. This will make sure everything is not only square but everything is aligned to everything else. If you spray-glued the sheet on, cut out the holes/cutouts with a sharp razor knife, then use your tools to cut to the lines. Don't use harsh chemicals on plastic to remove the stuck-on transparency sheet - usually hot soapy water will do it, or WD40. On metal panels, acetone works great - don't let it near plastic though.

author: d-smes
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2016, 04:24:07 pm
content: Quote from: Corporate666 on April 03, 2016, 10:29:14 pmHere's my biggest tip- Make sure the printer you use prints at exactly 100% of scale. I tried this at home and found out the hard way my inkjet printer prints at ~97% of original size.

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2016, 04:44:50 pm
content: A lot of good tips in this thread so far, just a couple of others:- A cheap set of needle files plus a couple of larger files will help you fine tune holes of arbitrary shape. For long straight edges, use the largest file that will fit to help get a straight edge.- For round holes in plastic or thin sheet metal,step drillsare the way to go. They won't grab and twist the material like a normal twist drill will.- A bit of bondo and hammered-finish spray paint will hide a lot of sins.

author: German_EE
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2016, 04:50:16 pm
content: Damn, I should have remembered the size thing. I get most of my printing done at the local copy shop and they are now used to me asking for pdf jobs to be printed at 102%. When size is critical there is no harm in printing a scale in either cm or inches along one edge of the job then checking it with a ruler.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2016, 05:17:30 pm
content: Be aware with some printers they might have different scaling in the X and Y direction ( Don't ask why but trust me this is very common especially on some laser and inkjet printers) so if you print out a scale do the first in both X and Y directions and then measure. You might have to do a stretch of the image in one direction or the other to get it right.Also remember resolution of the printer. 1200DPI lasers are not 1200DPI really, they are 600DPI engines with fancy dithering to make it appear like that, but this will cause problems with fine details. Great for halftone pictures, but not if you are into an accurate print measurement. Use 300DPI instead.Inkjets are particularly bad at times, you get very different horizontal and vertical resolutions. Solution is use the worst, though most can do 120DPI fine.To fix this distortion you need either Photoshop ( sledgehammer to crack a peanut) or GIMP which can do this for free. Having used both Gimp does win out on cost, unless you can justify the Adobe annual fee for something else.

author: D. Head
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2016, 05:45:55 pm
content: A few years ago I made a project and designed a front panel and had it made athttps://www.schaeffer-ag.de, it took me hours to design the thing mainly because i had no reference point, where the cut-outs need to go compared to the PCB. It was more trail & error.So I ordered 1 panel, with the cut-outs a little bit too small, then adjusted it with a file, changede the design an tried again. That's a very expensive hobby.This was for the DCI-PLC from Elektor 2001.

author: D. Head
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2016, 05:48:34 pm
content: some more photo's

author: Buriedcode
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2016, 01:23:49 pm
content: I too have struggled with front panels, as well as finding 'decent' enclosures for projects that didn't always require nagging acquaintances to use their CNC machines >.<I believe mike from 'mikeselectricstuff' (on this forum) had the great idea of using PCB material - the manufacturer can do the milling/cut outs of almost any shape, you have silkscreen printing, and often a choice of colours of the soldermask. Then there's the small added bonus of using groundplane for screening/grounding.For plain aluminium panels I have usedhttps://www.frontpanelexpress.com/For >10 it worked out quite cheap and the german guy on the phone was very helpful. I got a bunch of end panels sized for hammond enclosures made up.For my own projects that only I use, 'packetbob's idea of printing off something and laminating it, then laminating. A bit of 3M photomount adhesive and it works. Also very handy for making prototboard/stripboard boards look half decent. (always best to print the pinout of every connector..).Like everything its a question of time, money and effort - you can save on one of those.

author: sca
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 05, 2016, 02:14:24 pm
content: Quote from: VK5RC on April 03, 2016, 09:00:26 pmMeasure once, cut twice, weld, grind, repeat.sca

author: VK5RC
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 06, 2016, 12:11:19 pm
content: Measure once cut twice,curse, weld, grind, repeat. HiHiThe real advantage of the internet is the anonymity; avoiding the personal embarrassment of having to go back to the shop for another ……….. that you have just stuffed up and explain why you need another in such short space of time!