hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
What is this PCB?  Very interesting looking... - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: alank2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 01:44:39 am
content: Hi,So I was searching eBay for a manufacturer someone mentioned here and found this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Advantest-BLM-018943-Computer-Board-Assembly-PC-Systems-Takeda-Riken-/161232276380?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258a314b9cWhat is it? Very interesting layout...Thanks,Alan

author: Nerull
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 01:59:34 am
content: Avantest makes automated semiconductor test equipment - that looks like a bed of nails breakout board. What it tested, I have no idea. It doesn't look like the bare die tester Dave showed off here:Perhaps its another part of the test assembly?

author: fluxcapacitor
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 03:10:43 am
content: it fits onto the machine here :http://www.caeonline.com/listing/product/153148/advantest-t-3347p

author: free_electron
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 26, 2014, 05:54:00 am
content: This is the loadboard for an integrated circuit tester.Basically this board connects the tester to the chip under test. Those metal cans are very expensive magnetically shielded reed relays.The reson this structure is circular is to guarantee that all electrical paths are the same length.
RF emmisions measurement with Acoustimeter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Shark
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2014, 09:00:21 am
content: Hi guys!This may be an odd topic and I'm asking because I haven't been able to find any related threads. Do you have an opinion about an RF emission detector like an Acoustimeter from EMFields?I heard a lot about it so far, but knowing little about RF, it's hard for me to judge how useful such a device can be. I'm mostly interested in checking emission in my apartment (smart meters, WiFi routers) and at my workplace (cellular towers, WiFi routers).Would be happy to know your thoughts and opinionsKind regards

author: DL8RI
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2014, 09:58:05 am
content: Hi,such a thing may be useful in some cases to track down a source of radiation, but in general that's a tool to help people with paranoia to get even more paranoid (and open their wallets). Despite the rather high price, you have to ask yourself what you want to do with it.If you have a reading of 0,2V/m or 5V/m and now? Are you feeling safe with 0,2V/m or 0,02V/m or unsafe with 0,5V/m? In any case this thing will make awful noises that will certainly make you nervous. Despite the chance of any harmful effect of Micro-Wave-Fields, which is after ~13000 scientific publications still not approved, my personal experience is:If you let you make nervous by this "Instruments" and all the hysteria about EMFields, you will make you life more miserable than every cell-phone-tower in the world could do.It CAN be useful if you want to (for example) reduce the Field-Strength in your bedroom by placing the WiFi-Router in a certain way. But for this it's to expensive. I did it too. Not because I believe in such effects (after all these studies I don't believe there is something to come), but just because... it's possible
Is there a Multitool for Small / Moderate Precision Oriented Tasks? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: salil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2014, 05:24:41 am
content: Is there a multitool out there that would be more appropriate for performing small repairs/modifications (mostly plastic) and stripping & crimping small wires like usb cables, etc out in the field?Essentially what I need is:Knife (no specific type, but ideally locking)ScissorsWire stripper (up to 28 AWG)Wire cutterTweezersPhilips/flat head screwdrivers large and smallNeedle nose pliersRulerSecond to all that, it would be nice if it had retracting/one hand operation pliers like a lot of the Gerber models I’ve seen or Leatherman OHT.I don’t see myself ever needing things like a mini saw, can/bottle openers, seat belt cutter, etc. in this multitool, but those tools invariably seem to be included in the majority of multitools. I don’t need this for camping or anything like that.Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

author: SpectrHz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 24, 2014, 01:23:15 pm
content: The one I really love ishttp://www.adafruit.com/products/36Leatherman es4. Very high quality steel, super sharp cutting tools, and nice precise screw drivers. Doesn't have everything you listed but I think your going to be looking at an awfully expensive multitool for more.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 24, 2014, 09:39:46 pm
content: I second the ES4. It is the closest you are going to find I think. There is no one multitool that I am aware of that has everything you want.

author: salil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2014, 06:38:59 am
content: Thanks, I have the PS4...got it before I realized there was an ES4..guess I might have to pick up another Leatherman Squirt.Has anyone tried any of Victorinox's Cybertools?http://www.victorinox.com/ch/content/search?defaultvalue=Enter+Search+Term&searchterm=cybertool

author: SpectrHz
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 07, 2014, 05:51:45 am
content: Quote from: salil on March 06, 2014, 06:38:59 amHaving both is definitely good too!
WES51 making some noises, is this ok? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mlemos
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 18, 2014, 02:15:31 am
content: Hi, I just acquired a brand new WES51 soldering station.I noted that it is pretty quiet, but when the LED is blinking, to indicate that we're on the desired temperature, I not some minor (very low and low frequency) sounds (like transformers) from the base unit. Is this ok?

author: RobertHolcombe
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2014, 02:33:30 am
content: Hey I had a similar issue a few months into the life of my WESD51, the transformer mounts had loosened over time. Since tightening the screws I haven't had the same problem since.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 18, 2014, 01:31:54 pm
content: There's a transformer inside, mains frequency humming is normal. My 936s (original and clones) do the same thing.

author: uwezi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 18, 2014, 06:46:56 pm
content: Also have a look under the unit or next to the unit.At work we have a Weller station which recently started to make such noises - they were caused by a magnetic screw which was trapped under the unit

author: aflex
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2014, 10:56:53 am
content: Hey Mlemos,In this type of situation, most of the time problem occurs in electronic control system. So that’s why every time it is showing we’re on the desired temperature. So you need to repair it. Otherwise it may affect whole system. Or it may harm you.

author: Monkeh
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 19, 2014, 11:04:49 am
content: You're hearing the TRIAC switching the supply to the heater to maintain the temperature. It's perfectly normal, although as suggested, check the transformer fixings are tight.Quote from: aflex on February 19, 2014, 10:56:53 amWhat on earth are you blathering about?

author: commongrounder
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2014, 12:08:04 am
content: I had the same thing happen asuwezi, to my Weller station. Made horrendous buzzing noises and I thought I was going to have to crack it open. When I pulled it out, there was a paper clip underneath. Problem solved. I wish they were all that easy.....
Hydra cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: HP-ILnerd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2014, 03:33:09 am
content: So I've got this Wacom Cintiq 13hd digitizer tablet (awesome) but it has this hydra-headed cable:http://us.wacom.com/~/media/WTC/Images/Products/Cintiq/13HD/Gallery/800x600_13HD_07.jpgThe single end goes to the tablet, the other connects to your computer's HDMI, USB and external power via a 30(!) pin connector.Now the USB and HDMI, I can understand, but the 30 pin connector on the power side seems just silly.Also, after a month of owning this, it slid off my desk landing squarely on the 30 pin connector, breaking one of the last 4 pins, which I'm guessing was a USB data line, because that's what stopped working. After purchasing a couple spares, I am now inclined to build a boot of some kind to keep the 30 pin from moving once plugged into the tablet. Anybody ever done anything like this? I own a router table and table saw, so I was thinking maybe something made of plywood, but weight and portability are still a big criteria. Maybe a thermoplastic wrap?Just for robustness, I think a symmetrical cable with HDMI, USB and a normal cylindrical power plug would have been better, and wouldn't have been much clumsier. That 30 pin connector is awfully sensitve to rotation on it's wide axis, and must be treated with kid gloves in use.Anybody think it's worth taking a dremel to my busted cable to see if they were sharing current on the 30 pin power cord?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2014, 09:15:48 am
content: Are they reusing surplus Apple dock connectors...? That could explain using one for power as well instead of something more suitable.

author: HP-ILnerd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 22, 2014, 10:19:46 am
content: I believe it's the same connector, but surplus? I don't know. I expect someone was thinking they needed the 30 pins on the tablet side, so they might save moneyon having two more on the power side, but it's still peculiar. Anybody ever seen a 30 pin DC power connector before? 'Cause I sure haven't. Frankly, I'm not even buggedby that part. The fragility of the connector on the tablet side is what bugs me.
A damaged document scanner - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ThunderBird
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 20, 2014, 10:37:30 am
content: I havethis doc scanner, or to be more precise I had it untill yesterdayi had a little mishap with it and now its glass is broken.I've been searching on the internet for a new glass and would you believe it - even ebay doesn't have itDoes anyone know if this glass can be found somewhere? It would mean a great deal.

author: uwezi
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 20, 2014, 10:46:29 am
content: Any glazier should be able to cut you a sheet of glass to a given size for very little money. Another option would be to get a cheap frameless picture frame and use the glass - you might need to cut it to the exact size, which requires a glass cutter and some practice...

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 20, 2014, 11:01:42 am
content: As stated, go to a glazier, tell them what dimensions you need, including thickness and the fact that it needs to be high qulaity glass an they will sort you out. Obviously avoid any form of tinted or 'Solar' glass as they may effect optical performance.

author: NYG
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 21, 2014, 04:21:28 pm
content: Quote from: ThunderBird on February 20, 2014, 10:37:30 amOut of curiosity did the glass shatter into a lot of small pieces, or did it break into larger chunks with sharp jagged edges?Or maybe it's just cracked ....
Puls QS40 DIN rail PSU - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: gxti
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 25, 2014, 03:26:39 am
content: Surprised nobody's made a thread yet for this:Just wanted to say thanks Mike for bringing my attention to this type of power supply. I'd been wanting to build some kind of 24V battery backup system and was thinking about using an ATX supply and boosting the voltage to charge the battery, but with these suckers I can just set it to 27V and forget it. Already purchased a QS20.241 off Ebay for less than an ATX supply with comparable efficiency and reliability would have cost, here's hoping it lives up to my expectations.
How does the Metcal Tipsaver work? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2014, 07:24:48 pm
content: I've been reading about how certain Metcal workstands (TipsaverTM) will reduce power to the handpiece when placed in the stand. I searched Metcal's patents and didn't see anything pertaining.Anybody know how it's done? Is it possible to retrofit an RFG-30 to have this function?My guess is that there's a magnet that affects the tip, how it does so I'm not sure, is the Curie point influenced by a strong external magnetic field?

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2014, 09:20:47 pm
content: Been asked before.Based on another thread, it uses a couple of magnets, so should be possible (same thread indicates tip drops to ~150F).

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2014, 09:27:24 pm
content: I searched for it, couldn't find it. Sorry.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2014, 09:31:01 pm
content: Quote from: Rory on January 25, 2014, 09:27:24 pmProbably needed a simpler search. Found it just using "Metcal stand", and it was in the first few listed.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 11:12:18 pm
content: I bought the newer stand and handpiece to use with an old RFG-30 and it works well. The new aluminum handpiece design is awesome.I don't have an older handpiece to check if it will fit the new stand. As pointed out it uses magnets inside the stand. You could always just put magnets in your existing stand and play with the location to get a good idle temperature.Upgrade kit:http://www.newark.com/oki-metcal/mx-uk1/solder-station/dp/19P7649?ost=mx-uk1Discussion:www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/metcal-not-just-heat-conduction/

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2014, 12:52:44 am
content: Thanks, for the info thm_w. I did some eBay shopping and got an RFG-30, an MX-RM3E handpiece and some assorted cartridges. I'm blanching at the cost of the tipsaver stand, so I'll end up building one.

author: AndersAnd
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2014, 11:32:18 am
content: Quote from: Rory on January 25, 2014, 09:27:24 pmMetcal autosleep stands - how do they work?https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/metcal-autosleep-stands-how-do-they-work/msg225666/

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 14, 2014, 06:19:49 pm
content: Thank you!
eletrex soldering tips /guess nobody has seen one off this type - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: plakat
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 14, 2014, 07:40:31 am
content: Hi I have this station and iron ,it's left from my dad's items who passed away. The problem I have is I'm not sure if what i have on the end of the iron is the tip and the thread below needs a collar,or a full tip goes in over the top of this what I think is the tip ,this iron has been left with my dad's gear and I really want to keep it .thing is I measured the tip area for temps, on test against the temp controller and it is unbeliveble how accurate it is for a what iI think could be 20 + years old ,the iron pulls 24v ac and the controller unit has a big old chunky transformer running 240 in to 12 v and 24 v out if I can't get tips I was wondering if I can match another 24 v ac iron to this controller .it is a six pin connecter ,but the iron only has two of them wired for ac and a black and red to what I would think is the thermo couple .I'm enclosing some pics for someone to possibly advise me .I some may think it's not worth the hassle but I like it ,it's was my dad's who worked on electronics projects all his life and I do know he kept nothing that was fit for the job or accurate .the thing I was worried about was if I just put in another iron 24 v and wireing is the same would the resistance / thermo couple throw out all the accurate temps .I'm very new to electronics and I'm learning by just reading ny dad's old scribbles and books but di enjoy it very much .sorry about ranting on ...thanks guys and girls .....
Mini Hack - Disabling Canon A580's open battery cover detection - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2014, 02:43:19 am
content: Quick and probably boring video.Dropped the camera on the floor, battery compartment made of plastic broke, camera wouldn't start because it no longer detected the cover closed.Decided to open it up and alter the switch and then I said to myself I might as well record while I'm opening up.So it was a spur-of-the-moment thing and therefore I apologize in advance for not finding my words at some points, I was more concentrated on not losing screws or scratching the lcd screen and it was not something rehearsed.Couldn't do a total teardown because I needed the camera later today and there's lots of hand soldered wires and the connectors are somewhat brittle (broke a bit of plastic from one simply by trying to open it and pull the flat flex cable)Anyway, it turned out the switch is a normally closed one and when the cover is closed, the switch is open so the fix was simple.. desolder the damn switch. I then simply used some electrical tape to keep the cover closed. Ugly but effective, considering a replacement battery cover is close to 30$ on eBay (new camera of similar specs is about 75$ in stores).
Winbot Teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mosley
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: February 12, 2014, 08:51:31 am
content: Is anyone interested in a Winbot7 teardown, looking into the method of how the vacuum foot works and control electronics.The press say it is patented, but I can not find such patent only a trade name. May be this is the wrong category, apologies.
Philips Fm1200/Grundig Movitalk112 - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Simon123
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2014, 12:07:47 pm
content: I have this radio station, but i dont know how to use it, and what all labels mean?Its STM23I turned it on, it beeps, when i press any button or if i put microphone next to magnet-it has reed switch inside.Could somewhone help me, i just wana to see if it works and how to use it.http://u.pikucha.ru/i2urj/P7170986.jpeg?referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.zgtk.ru%2Fsmf%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D8866.0this isnt my pic, but its the same.

author: DC5AJ
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 03, 2014, 09:32:30 pm
content: Hi, these radios are for trunked radio systems, in the current configuration it is not possible to select a frequency and transmit. The radio need a base that do all the organisation stuff. These radios can be modified to conventional radios for use on hamradio bands, most of them work on UHF. This page shows the necessary steps:http://www.pa4den.nl/fm1200.htmlI have done this a few times, works great. If you only would play around a bit it is maybe not worth the effort. I don't know the regulations in your country, or if you have a license, but i suggest not to send on frequencies without a license that allows you to do it, this thing is not worth the trouble.

author: Simon123
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 03, 2014, 10:24:04 pm
content: Thanks, looks like its going to sit on shelf, until resell it or something.I dont have license and eeprom/eprom programer to hack it.
Vox Valvetronix VT50 Amp teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 12, 2014, 12:34:05 pm
content: According to my dad it does have a 'tube' sound, of course he is a self professed 'audiophile' so he probably isn't actually hearing anything of the sort. The concept would seem to work, have a valve that gives the 'tube' sound as a pre-amp and then have a transistor amplifier with low distortion to amplify and keep that 'tube' sound. What do you guys think?Thanks for watching!

author: Anks
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2014, 12:15:23 am
content: These sound shocking. If thats what anyone calls a valve sound then they are mad. These sound like a really crappy cab simulation on a low powered dsp.

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 13, 2014, 01:47:39 am
content: If you mean cab as in taxi that's hilarious, otherwise, ya speak the truth. I imagine. I have no idea myself. My dad is old, I try not to ruin his fun, as dumb as it can be
Yihua 853D+ Advice - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: buggyboy99
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 12:45:12 am
content: Hey guys,I came across the Yihua 853D+ on eBay and it looks like a good fit for me.http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221204364902?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#shIdJust wanting to know if it is a good brand, good quality? etcCheers

author: PeterG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 02:45:38 am
content: I have owned one for a couple of years. Never had a problem.It is great bang for buck IMHO.Photo review here.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/new-toy-yihua-853dplus-rework-stationRegards

author: buggyboy99
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 24, 2013, 04:37:19 am
content: Quote from: PeterG on March 24, 2013, 02:45:38 amThanks. I ended up buying it

author: Fantasma25
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 11, 2014, 08:02:07 pm
content: Quote from: buggyboy99 on March 24, 2013, 04:37:19 am
Anyone recognise this 2mm machine tool? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: philpem
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2014, 01:40:42 am
content: Hi guys,A few years ago I bought a few tools from a PCB manufacturer which was liquidating (via a friend). In the lot were these things. They look almost like endmills, but I don't think they are...Does anyone know what they are? Outside diameter of the tool is about 2mm.Thanks,Phil.

author: Prime73
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2014, 02:47:40 am
content: tile cutting bits? you use these ( similar looking) in dremel, etc.

author: jeremy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2014, 02:52:20 am
content: They are roughing cutters, used to remove a lot of material quickly when you don't care about surface finish

author: jeremy
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2014, 02:58:44 am
content: It also looks like they are flat on top, is this correct? If so they are almost certainly endmills for side entry, rather than for drilling.

author: jaxbird
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2014, 03:18:28 am
content: They look similar to some PCB routing bits I have:

author: philpem
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2014, 07:22:19 pm
content: Quote from: jaxbird on February 06, 2014, 03:18:28 amThanks for that - I've had a bit of a dig through the rest of the box and found a Kemmer Prasizion label on another (empty) box -- for a 2mm router bit. Looked up the part number, and found a photo of these things staring back at meSo that's what they are -- PCB router bits, intended for edge routing on FR4.
Powerjack 3500W inverter - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: poida_pie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 11:20:32 am
content: My friend gave me this inverter to look at. Both 60mm fans were not working. The inverter was runningreally hot.So I found that indeed both cheap Chinese fans had died. The inverter seems to work OK under low power loads.And then I saw the temperature sensor. See attached photo.The air gap between the thermistor and the chassis is approximately 4mm.The white stuff is thermal paste. The main thermal conduction pathway is via the thermistor leads and the siliconinsulation material.So even if I replace both fans, the unit will still overheat thanks to this wonderful example of Chinese EE.I will have to make some insulated metal clamp to press the thermistor against the chassis before I returnthis piece of crap. You get what you pay for.ebay listing to avoidhttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3500w-Power-Inverter-pure-sine-wave-DC-24V-TO-AC-240V-car-power-free-shipping-/321295040053

author: brabus
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 12:06:21 pm
content: Is there any comment on the drilled holes on the left?

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 12:46:12 pm
content: Quotehttp://photo.163.com/powerjacktank/timelineNow you know what they spent the R&D budget on.

author: grumpydoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 12:51:40 pm
content: Time to trot out this link againhttp://ludens.cl/Electron/chinverter/chinverter.html

author: poida_pie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 09:44:38 pm
content: there were more of these elsewhere. I have no idea what they are for. Reversing manufacturing error? or maybe breaking unneeded traces on the board.Quote from: brabus on February 04, 2014, 12:06:21 pm

author: poida_pie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 09:47:34 pm
content: Oh yes, I read that a while ago. And when I read the product name yesterday, some bells started dimly ringing in my mind. This inverter seems to me a later design compared with the one in the below URL.Quote from: grumpydoc on February 04, 2014, 12:51:40 pm

author: grumpydoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 10:54:27 pm
content: QuoteI guess it would have to be, it sounds like the original design was so flawed as to be completely unusable.

author: scientist
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 06, 2014, 05:31:02 am
content: Quote
Replacement Heating Element for Hakko Clone? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Curtisbeef
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 02:06:17 am
content: Hi I have a Chicago Electric Hakko clone. My heating element has recently broken and works intermittently. It used to have a round ceramic tip but that broke and its not making solid contact with the metal tip anymoreAnyway, I'm looking for a new heating element but all the ones I see on ebay and such have 4 wires.... When I open my handle the element is just 2 wires to the element and there is a grounded spring around the collar.Here are some pics of my handle.http://imgur.com/a/ZdS28Where can I find this heating element?Any help would be awesome.Thanks,Curtis

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 05:52:28 am
content: I believe that is an Atten design which uses the heater resistance as the temperature sensor.

author: Curtisbeef
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 08:08:05 pm
content: Quote from: amyk on February 04, 2014, 05:52:28 amWould this element work?http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATTEN-60W-SOLDERING-IRON-CERAMIC-HEATING-ELEMENT-HEATER-/160632453965?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256670bb4d
Heated desoldering pump. Ebay find, any good? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: wilfred
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2014, 04:43:09 am
content: /.

author: electronics man
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2014, 06:21:29 pm
content: Look for named brand ones because these one hung low cheapies may not be safe and not worth your while

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2014, 07:34:16 pm
content: I bought and tested the one in the third link. It's not worth it, the suction is very, very poor. It barely sucks anything. Even if you'd oil up the internals and make it not leak so much air, the spring in the handle is so small it can't suck for long enough to pull the usual quantity of solder on boards.I find it much easier to use the solder station I have (Hakko 936) after adding a bit of lead solder to the leads to heat up that solder and then use a regular solder sucker with longer springs and better suction. Intially I was reluctant to use it because I thought the silicon/plastic nozzle would screw up the solder iron tip but I got over it. With this 30w sucker, I could barely warm up lead free solder after letting it warm up for 5-10 minutes.Here's some pictures from 2012 when i bought this crap (for scale, the white piece of paper is an A4 sheet)

author: M4trix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2014, 09:25:35 pm
content: Well, in other words...it's crap!

author: M4trix
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 03, 2014, 10:48:49 pm
content: My final verdict was based on mariush's experience. I've never tried such tool but I trust mariush regarding this matter.

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 06:00:38 pm
content: hakko 808just get it and you'll thank me

author: quarros
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 07:13:36 pm
content: Quote from: linux-works on February 04, 2014, 06:00:38 pmEhh... That is only available in 120V version as far as know, and he is from Austraaalia.

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: February 04, 2014, 07:24:40 pm
content: if that's true, its a real shame! almost worth getting a step-down trafo.I could not justify a full desoldering station but this $150 'gun' was quite good enough and once you get the hang of using it, you won't want to go back.I have this vice:and that extra spring holder works well enough to hold the hakko while its on stand-by. nice little setup for a home rework shop and does not break the bank.
Roland GR-30 Guitar Synthesizer teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2014, 05:58:02 pm
content: The electronics are fairly interesting, lots of chips just for a synth, but I suppose it has to separate and sense different frequencies. I quite like the op-amp cap circuit repeated ~12 times in the middle of the board.Thanks for watching!

author: dexters_lab
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: February 02, 2014, 07:08:18 pm
content: nice video, thanks for posting

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: February 02, 2014, 10:54:30 pm
content: No problemo
Need help identifying this air connect on EFD solder paste dispenser - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Chupa
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 27, 2014, 10:06:12 pm
content: I have an EFD 1000DV solder paste dispenser / hand pick-n-place vacuum. Its like a 1/4" air compressor quick connect but smaller. Looking around on the net It does not look like they make smaller than 1/4" quick connectors. I am looking for the proper way to connect this to my air comp. I opened it up to see if I could easily switch it for a 1/4" quick connect nipple but it has some funky vinyl tube compression fitting on the inside that would be a headache to match.http://imgur.com/a/k25gjWhat would be the matching coupling for this fitting? American quarter and cat foot for scale.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2014, 05:04:12 am
content: Take some 6mm flexible hose and slide over it and use a hose clamp to hold it in place. Other end you use a barb connection to your regular air hose end. Simple and cheap.

author: wilheldp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2014, 05:58:03 pm
content: What is the pressure generated by the compressor? Vinyl tubing most commonly used with hose barbs like that is only good for 10 or so psi. Anything more than that, and it will blow up like a balloon. If it's under 10 psi, then you can just stick vinyl tubing on there with a small hose clamp or even a zip tie, then get a hose barb to quick connect adapter fitting for the other end of the tubing.BTW, your cat's foot is way out of scale.

author: Po6ept
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2014, 08:18:55 pm
content: I have something that looks similar on some of my aircraft air tools. Does this look like it?http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Air-Hose-Fitting/productinfo/ACF21B316/http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Lightweight-Airhose-Kit/productinfo/ACKIT/

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2014, 08:49:16 pm
content: Answered in this threadhere
Doubt with input voltage of a soldering station Hakko. - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bfi1714
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 28, 2014, 12:09:25 pm
content: Hi! I just bought a [Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D] (http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M#productDetails) and I made the mistake of don't check the input voltage. I'm living in Australia where the voltage is 240 VAC / 50 Hz but the part is coming from USA where the voltage is 230 VAC / 60 Hz. My question is, could I still use the station or it'll damage it due the frequency differences?PS.: Here is the solder station (http://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/datasheets/Tools/fx888d.pdf)

author: houdini
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2014, 12:49:42 pm
content: No, the voltage is definitely not 230 here unless your iron uses a dryer socket.

author: sleemanj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2014, 01:12:32 pm
content: Voltage in the US is 120 Volts, not 230.If you have purchased the 120 Volt version then unfortunately it will die on a 230/240 system.

author: strangelovemd12
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 28, 2014, 05:05:34 pm
content: The unit ordered is made for standard US 120VAC 60Hz use. It won't operate out of box on your (or most country's) mains.

author: quarros
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 30, 2014, 07:35:41 pm
content: Well I have been in your situation so I can assure you It will work! But you need a simple voltage converter (basically a transformer for 230/120) or open it up and put in a different transformer. The only problem with the first option is that you will hear a continuous low buzz from the machine. (Presumably because the frequency difference but it is not loud so don't worry)
Microchip MGC3130 - near field 3D gesture recognition - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 11:28:12 am
content: I've stumbled upon this chip - MGC3130. It's supposedly able to register and recognize hand motion in 10-15cm range at 150dpi using only a pcb antenna.This seems like a very interesting part for a hobby project, but the development board is rather pricey for what it offers (150€+vat at Farnell, and the pcb only contains like 3 ICs).Have you guys had anything to do with this technology? As far as I know there is no other product like that on the market (actually, IIRC this product was developed by another company that was acquired by Microchip).

author: Rory
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2014, 07:48:46 pm
content: This is very cool.A pair would make a pretty decent Theremin interface.
Anyone recognize this logo? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MrAureliusR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 01:04:41 am
content: I have a feeling I should recognize this logo, like it's a big company I've seen before. Something is scratching at the back of my brain... I definitely recognize it but can't place it: (sorry, the image was taken through a tube so it's not as sharp as it normally would be)Hope someone can place it! I can take a better photo if needed.

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 01:07:49 am
content: Philips.

author: Andy Watson
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 01:08:48 am
content: Reminiscent of the old Philips logo.http://www.logoinn.org/famous-logos/philips-logo

author: MrAureliusR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 01:09:13 am
content: Thanks! It's funny, that's what I thought initally but then I still couldn't find any info on the chip, and I started to second-guess myself...c4757p, you're always there when I need youEDIT: It's such a bad print, maybe it's a fake? It was taken from a working circuit though, and made by a reputable brand...

author: c4757p
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 01:10:51 am
content: Quote from: MrAureliusR on January 22, 2014, 01:09:13 amNo, they always looked that awful.

author: MrAureliusR
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 01:11:41 am
content: Was it also likely that they used cryptic part numbers like the old HP ones?

author: bitshape
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 06:32:39 am
content: Quote from: MrAureliusR on January 22, 2014, 01:09:13 amThe old semiconductor division of Philips is today called NXP (or "NXP Semiconductors"):http://www.nxp.com/Maybe you can find there what you are looking for.

author: poorchava
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 11:22:02 am
content: Also, Philips was rather eager to rebrand the chips with customers in-house part numbers, even for not very high volumes. This makes them quite often very hard to identify.

author: niekproductions
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 01:57:34 pm
content: It's not theoldlogo any more, they switched back to itPhilips - History of the Brand

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 23, 2014, 09:42:16 am
content: Quote from: c4757p on January 22, 2014, 01:10:51 amThat is one of the worst Philips logos I've seen... but maybe it was printed on a SOIC or something smaller than a regular DIP, which could explain the smudginess. I'm more used to them looking like this, where you can at least read the text:
Philips SensoTouch Electric Razor teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2014, 06:32:32 pm
content: Surprisingly interesting believe it or not, very nice construction quality and engineering effort went into this guy.Someone have a suggestion for what the chip is?Thanks for watching!

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2014, 06:59:21 pm
content: Phillips changed a drive mechanism, those have stayed the same for close to half a century! Must have been a massive change but the actual head design is the same as the original. Very good at what it does, and works wet or dry just as well. Rough cutter noise is because it is new, the blades will finish off the lapping and make themselves super sharp with another month or so of use, and will then run quieter. Those blades give a very good shave.I took apart my one as the 2 AA cells inside had died, and replaced them with NimH cells. Not 2 months later the charge controller IC popped it's top. Looked up the chip and found out that that chip has an impressive input voltage range, from 10VDC to 265VAC without a problem, and that it will charge the battery via a tiny transformer ( smaller than a sugar cube) from that, having a built in switching transistor. Not going to look to buy one so took the charge circuit out and added a simple charge limiter resistor and took an external wall wart to give it 10V or so as charge current. Only issue was the charge indication is now non operative as the micro now no longer has input. Just the one red battery low led flashes now on power off. No big issue.I took apart a Panasonic shaver with a linear actuator motor that was very different, but still has the same multiple seals on it. Had to replace the original special custom AA cells after they had died after 20 years of use. Special custom long pin on each end, simply replaced by taking 2 tagged cells and rolling the tabs to fit in the slots and application of a little force.

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2014, 07:58:34 pm
content: Awesome! Thanks for the info, I am glad it will shave better because it doesn't seem to right now. Little circles, right?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2014, 08:21:40 pm
content: Yes, you should use it wet, and I would recommend using Prep shaving cream, not the stuff in a can but the tub. A small amount works well ( about 1/4 teaspoon or less) and gives a good shave. Shave in lines and generally go with the grain of the hair. Little circles will cut off and lead to ingrown hairs. Stretch the skin under the cutter to pop the hair out and you will be fine.

author: sonnytiger
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: January 25, 2014, 10:17:37 pm
content: OK thanks for the advice, guess this is a shaving forum now
3D Printed Electronic Enclosure - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jram112
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 15, 2014, 11:03:56 pm
content: I just used an online 3D printing service to create a plastic electronic enclosure for my project. It turned out nice, but now I'm concerned with static charge building up on the plastic surface and then discharging onto my pcb. The online service offers a polyamide plastic and some kind of light cured resin option for materials. No datasheet on the resin.My PCB has some expensive chips and will be grounded to an animal (biological signals).1. Should I be concerned about static?2. Is polyamide static dissipative?3. What do you guys use for 3D printed enclosures?4.?

author: eurofox
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 17, 2014, 04:26:56 pm
content: It is always better where you have low level and high impedance signals to use a metallic enclosure.You can always glue in your enclosure an aluminum foil or spray conductive coating.eurofox

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2014, 04:15:07 am
content: You can get aluminum foil in a tape format (sticky backed). Most building supplies have it. You can also get wide format copper tape off ebay, and yes you can solder to it.

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 18, 2014, 04:19:18 am
content: One other type of shielding for the craft inclined if gold leaf. It's not super expensive but not cheap either. Yes ebay has it and yes it is a bugger to install, at least it was when I used it (sorry the example is long gone).

author: jram112
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2014, 06:15:10 am
content: Well...would you guys put a data acquisition device in a plastic 3D printed enclosure?

author: Rerouter
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2014, 06:20:47 am
content: in my own opinion dont worry about static on your device from the enclosure, simply leave some clearance from where your enclosure mounts your board, (if you really wanted to be paranoid, expose some copper on your ground plane so it can slowly equalize as all plastics have some resistance)instead focus on making your connections to the outside world safe, as unless a static charge develops on the inside of the casing the insulation property means it should not effect the inside

author: granz
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 03:45:22 am
content: For what it's worth, I've put dozens of projects into 3D printed cases made from ABS and never had a problem. Some sensitive low-voltage (<1V) high-gain analog circuitry and never had a problem. None of these have been in dry, static prone environments though. Many off the-shelf project boxes are ABS. A grounded metal case is better in general, but sometimes it doesn't seem worth the extra effort of cutting and drilling, etc. when I can just whip something up and print it out much faster. I wouldn't worry about it too much.
Sole F63 Treadmill Error LS1- a convenient reason for some teardown pictures - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: reagle
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 20, 2014, 12:40:14 am
content: "Doesn't work? Awesome, take it apart and generate some contents"A bit of a teardown mixed with trying to make it work again.http://kuzyatech.com/sole-f63-treadmill-error-ls1Comments are welcome!

author: Vgkid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 20, 2014, 03:49:03 am
content: I did not realize that those treadmill motors used so much power.

author: reagle
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 21, 2014, 06:32:03 pm
content: They do market them by motor power- 2-3-5HP typically.I am a bit surprised the whole thing runs on PIC12, though it's possible I missed something beefier.

author: wilheldp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2014, 06:45:56 pm
content: You might want to replace the brushes in that motor. I have investigated a couple of treadmill fires, and the cause of both of them was worn brushes shattering and getting into the motor windings.

author: reagle
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 21, 2014, 07:04:28 pm
content: What was the run time on those? Mine has barely 40 hours/180 miles if the counter is not lying

author: wilheldp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2014, 08:55:22 pm
content: I don't know what the run times were, but one of them was a fairly new Sole. The other one was an ancient Kenmore with an unknown manufacturer (since Kenmore makes nothing). I'm not knocking Sole...I have one of their exercise bikes. I'm just saying that since you have had an issue with the brushes, you might want to go ahead and replace them just to be safe. It shouldn't cost much.

author: reagle
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 21, 2014, 08:59:39 pm
content: oh yea, no argument herejust getting data to see what to expect from them. Where did you get the replacement from?

author: wilheldp
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 22, 2014, 12:01:02 am
content: I didn't. It's my job to take things apart to find out what caused fires (or floods in some cases). I rarely, if ever, put stuff back together, much less fix it. I have brought some stuff home from work when they were going to throw it away after an investigation, and I fixed those. But neither treadmill is on that list since I much prefer biking to running.
Recommendations for Ultrasonic Cleaner? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Co6aka
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 14, 2014, 06:05:34 pm
content: For "2014" both for and against -- the ones you love, and the ones you hate. Basically, 2-4 liters, 117Vac, not wimpy, perhaps heated. Mostly going to be cleaning small to "medium" metallics (RF connectors/adaptors, hardware, etc.)

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 14, 2014, 06:16:31 pm
content: I have had very good experience with the CP360 modelCrest ultrasonics units. Over 13 years of daily use. It stopped working a month ago and I found a bad 10k resistor and it fired right up again after replacing it.

author: kaz911
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 06:22:21 pm
content: for thing with lots of small details - get one with "sweep". That will minimize the 'standing waves'

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 19, 2014, 06:34:37 pm
content: The Crest units have sweep

author: Co6aka
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 21, 2014, 05:07:20 am
content: Found a deal on a CP230D...After reading (way too) many reviews, seems most of the lower priced stuff is a repair/teardown/scrap looking for a (inconvenient) time to happen.Thanks for the recommendation!

author: robrenz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 21, 2014, 12:16:45 pm
content: I forgot one thing. You must get a heated tank. The difference with heat is tremendous especially If you are going to use any water based cleaners

author: Co6aka
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: January 23, 2014, 03:49:45 pm
content: Absolutely; gotta be all warm 'n buzzy! The CP230D is heated...http://store.crest-ultrasonics.com/product-p/tt230d.htm