Hot Air and Soldering station noobie question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / beginners

author: Drake122
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 01:21:05 pm
content: Hey guys!So, I bought this shiny SP1011dlr hot air and soldering station 2 in 1. I'm pretty new to this stuff, the build quality doesn't look that cheap, but when I tried to test the hot air part, it stops giving heat after it reaches the set temperature. Let me explain: I used a thermometer to test the temp of the air coming out. I set the station to 250c , 4/8 air, and the temperature of the air shot up to about 210-220c, then the station said it reached 250, and then the air temperature started to drop. Is it a normal working behavior of a hot air station? I guess it monitors the heating element, not the air leaving nozzle.Also, second question: The soldering station part works nice, but when I tried to tin it, as it was fresh out of the box, it wouldn't take the solder (60/40, rosin core, SW26). The solder isn't wetting to the tip. It is a coated tip by the looks of it. I tried to use extra flux, but nothing. The flux I tried was solid rosin, I dipped the iron into it to melt it. Is it not working because I have to dilute that thing? Can't I just melt it with the iron, or is it too thick and you have to cut it with Isopropyl?

author: agehall
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 05, 2018, 01:29:48 pm
content: Oh I recognize those front panels! That station looks just like the front of my ZD-915 desoldering station. If there is any relation between the two tools I would highly recommend opening it up and checking all the connections. My desoldering station had a few wires cut and one torn off. Needless to say, quality was not top of mind when that station was put together...

author: mr.fabe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2018, 03:40:58 pm
content: Quote from: Drake122 on March 05, 2018, 01:21:05 pmMy hot air station operates similar to your station. I use the temperature display as a starting reference point and make adjustments based on the what I'm working on... SMD, LED, etc. You may also want to pickup a roll of kapton tape to protect components from heat in the surrounding areas of your work.I don't use solid rosin for flux but you can dip the iron directly as you mentioned, or cut it with IPA. For tinning my irons, I use Tip Tinner... it works very well. Some tips that were about to hit the trash were rejuvenated by this product. Good stuff.Sent from my Moto X5 using Tapatalk

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 06, 2018, 04:45:31 pm
content: That station looks like a ZHONGDI ZD 917 type design. Probably a rebranded station made in China. If it is don't expect the tips to be super high quality.It either came with a coating, tinned poorly, heated up too much without solder, left to long without fresh solder, or was cooled down with a wet sponge.For new tips you best chances of success are to tin them completely over the tinned area immediately then clean them with a brass cleaner (one made for soldering irons). Then tin again and clean again a few times. When you return the iron to the holder or turn it off apply fresh solder over the tinned area and let it smoke away.The tip should look similar to this each time you clean. Yep 95% of people are doing it wrong.