hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
What is this TO-92 package transistor  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hexum064
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2015, 04:22:26 am
content: The markings on it read as:831A975EBCDoes anyone know what this is? Not really having any luck Googling it.Thanks!

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2015, 05:13:31 am
content: Maybe it's 2SK975 ?Link :http://alltransistors.com/mosfet/transistor.php?transistor=799Next time, try to google, for example by pairing "975" with some other keyword like transistor , or npn and so on. Found the link above by searching with phrase "975 transistor".

author: bson
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 24, 2015, 05:31:32 am
content: EBC likely tells you which pins are E, B, C respectively.

author: Hexum064
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2015, 02:20:17 pm
content: Thank you both.Mariush, it's funny you should suggest that. I did 831A transistor and 831A 975 transistor, but not 975 transistor.Anyway. Now I can give it a test and see.bson. I kinda hope that's not the case here. I would like this part to be a MOSFET as the datasheet Mariush found would suggest and E, B, and C are not usually used for those. But who knows, it could still be the case, especially if it is just a BJT. I can't say I've ever seen it labeled on a TO-92 package before though.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2015, 03:22:11 pm
content: Anything like this?I have this as NPN, general purpose. House marked, good luck finding data. Possibly Motorola?

author: Hexum064
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2015, 07:26:01 pm
content: It's a little like that though all screen printed. I think there's a small manufacturer's symbol on it but not one I recognized. I'll try to post a pic of it when I get home in a few hours.

author: Hexum064
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2015, 12:26:47 am
content: Here's about the best pic I can take with my phone.

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2015, 12:42:20 am
content: That's the old Sprague logo. I don't think you have much chance of finding data on this, but the "device tester" would at least tell you what it is:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/$20-lcr-esr-transistor-checker-project/

author: Hexum064
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 25, 2015, 12:55:38 am
content: Thanks!
Decent pocket microscope? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2015, 08:22:43 am
content: Anyone have suggestions on a good pocket microscope.I'm wanting one that takes AA or AAA batteries if possible. Interested in the eyepiece type not the lcd screen type. Magnification is not so important, just seeing whats out there.

author: Alex Eisenhut
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2015, 12:47:24 am
content: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Micronta-illuminated-microscope-30X-magnifier-pocket-size-handheld-/201320826494?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2edfa8067e

author: pickle9000
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2015, 12:56:48 am
content: I like these. A loupe is not a microscope but a metal one with fold out lens is perfect for fast checking. You can get them with a light. Appropriate magnification for pcb inspection.http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=loupe+10x+triplet&_frs=1

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2015, 02:30:53 am
content: Quote from: pickle9000 on April 23, 2015, 12:56:48 amI found my loupe useful checking my soldering with through-hole stuff. I found my loupe indispensable doing sub-milli-meter SMD stuff - even just to locate where is pin 1 and where is the solder pad.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2015, 05:30:12 am
content: Is there any with aluminum cases?

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2015, 05:54:40 pm
content: Quote from: Shock on April 24, 2015, 05:30:12 amSearch eBay or AliExpress even if you don't want to buy from them. That is a good way to find out if someone makes something close to exactly what you want.Even if you don't want to buy from them, at least that can answer "if anyone makes something like that." If someone makes it, others from places you prefer may make it too.
Datasheet/Manual for an old Heathkit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Hexum064
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2015, 04:29:49 am
content: Not sure if this is the right place to ask for this but I have this old Heathkit MCU programmer but not sure how to use it.Does anyone know where I can get a manual or datasheet, or even just some general info on it?

author: Unknown
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 24, 2015, 04:51:02 am
content: It's not a "MCU Programmer", but (as it says on the case) a "microcomputer learning system" i.e. a training / education device to teach the basics of microprocessors.Info & Manuals.(edit: yours looks like what I think was one of the later versions, with cheaper keyboard & slightly different memory arrangement. As far as I remember the circuit didn't change much, if at all - but it's probably been 30 years since I saw one!)

author: Hexum064
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 24, 2015, 04:55:21 am
content: OMG. I was not expecting such a quick result. And, yes, I am using "MCU Programmer" way to generally here. Could you guess I am very greatful for Visual Studio's refactoring abilities when it comes to variable, class, and method names?Anyway. Thank you VERY much. I have been looking for those docs on and off for years!
BCP Model 510A Universal Clock - What is this? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: RoboTechEd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2015, 03:02:44 pm
content: Hi Everyone,In a recent equipment auction I won a BCP Model 510A Universal Clock/DATA recovery unit for like 5 bucks. Which is great! Except, I have no clue what it does. I just figured it would be fun to tear down/learn and I didn't expect to win it (because it goes for much more online). Does anyone have a quick description of what this is and what it is used for? I attached a picture below for reference (not my unit, just the same one grabbed off Google. I dont have any close-ups of my unit right now. Can upon request if that matters)Thanks!Image :http://www.wyomingelectronics.net/ebay/510a.jpg

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2015, 03:13:19 pm
content: it says SONET on it. that's your hint right there. sonet is a phone co networking protocol for realtime data (voice, historically).useless to anyone who does not have sonet rings at home (ie, none of us)

author: RoboTechEd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2015, 03:19:28 pm
content: Quote from: linux-works on April 23, 2015, 03:13:19 pmWell that makes sense because the company that was selling the equipment focussed on fiber data/audio pretty heavily. So there is no use practically for this, and is just used for an old protocol? Okay, it probably wouldn't sell on Ebay then, so I might as well rip it apart and see if there is anything interesting internallyThanks for the explanation!

author: linux-works
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2015, 03:40:55 pm
content: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SONET_ring

author: helius
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 23, 2015, 07:11:13 pm
content: 8b10b is a modulation that embeds clocking information in the data signal (like RLL or Manchester encoding). It was very widely used in all kinds of communication standards including Ethernet. Some very high speed stuff moved on to 64b66b encoding for greater bandwidth utilization.The device extracts the clock signal (both pulse per symbol and pulse per byte) and also re-encodes the data using the recovered clock. The SONET protocol is about framing at a higher level: it's not obvious that this device does anything with the SONET frame specifically.
EPSON HX-20 Restoration & FDD "FUN" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: TheEPROM9
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 22, 2015, 07:54:04 pm
content: The HX-20 Lives again =-)No longer does it have an 4 AA pack aorquodly taped to the top.Any advice on the FDD's?
Thermaltronics Solder & Desolder Reviews? Anyone?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: KG7AMV
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 19, 2015, 10:30:15 pm
content: Now that my 470 pump gave out I Was looking to get on the band wagon of 13.56MHz soldering equipment. Without breaking the bank!I was looking at the Thermaltronics TMT-9000S or TMT-2000S with the Desoldering Kits DS3 or DS1Anyone have any Opinions on Thermaltronics? I Searched the Forums no real luck in reviews.I do like the JBC but the costs are a bit out of my budget at the moment for how much work i do.For 650 ish FRN's I can get a something that will accept the wide variety of Metcal tips. I think the DS kits uses shop air now how does it interconnect where is the venturi on the solder stand or separate box? Is the 9000 really worth the extra FRN's?184 for the 2000http://www.ebay.com/itm/261819629234374 for the 9000http://www.ebay.com/itm/261610810732284 For the DS3 Desoldering kit.http://www.ebay.com/itm/351348448131289 for the DS1 Desoldering kit.http://www.ebay.com/itm/261637665342

author: krish2487
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 03:17:53 am
content: Hi,The ebay seller you quoted is a member on this forum by the same name.I bought a TMT2000S from him, without the desoldering kit.It runs on 470 Khz (the 5000S and 9000S are 13.56 MHz versions)It is an amazing peice of equipment and really good at soldering.I have no doubts in recommending the same to others.

author: KG7AMV
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 07:27:48 pm
content: Just looked and the price on the 9000S went to $499 guess I will save for a JBC now.

author: krish2487
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 21, 2015, 07:09:50 am
content: As I ve said before, the ebay user is a member here (denbo). You can ask him for a discount.The price does fluctuate every now and then. If you can hold off the purchase for a couple of days, then you ll see the price drop again.:-)
My teardown youtube channel - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cpuerror
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 20, 2015, 07:47:02 pm
content: I'm not sure if this is the appropriate forum but I started my own Youtube channel for teardowns and other random electronic stuff. There are only a handful of videos right now but more are on the way.https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqMeNiFceIvjAwUBubesUrg
Teardown: Duracell Powermat - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2015, 08:36:57 pm
content: Amazon had a sale on some Powermat kits (base, battery pack, and phone case) for $10, so I bought one. Unfortunately, only the base could be nondestructively torn down, but there's a teardown of the battery pack athttp://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1846962.Each active area of the base is just a high frequency resonant inverter with a Freescale chip controlling it. The coil is glued to the top surface, with a ferrite core glued to the other side.The power supply for the base is an oddball 18V, so beware if you're planning to run it from some other power source like automotive power. It might work on 12V (haven't tried) with reduced performance.
HP 54602B OScope Issues - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: RoboTechEd
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 18, 2015, 01:23:10 am
content: Hi All!I recently acquired an HP54602B scope as my first scope. I am pumped! I want to look at a waveform in single capture mode but am having issues. When I single capture the waveform it successfully stops. I then try to zoom in/adjuct voltage axis and the screen goes blank. The only apparent way to get back to my waveform is to press the 'Stop' button. When I do that it returns me back to my original settings. This is a Digital scope, so I should be able to zoom in on the waveform correct? Is there something in missing? In university I only worked on new scopes, so this is eluding me.Thanks!
Teardown of Puls QS40.484 power supply - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: drago
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: April 16, 2015, 10:49:07 pm
content: Recently I bought this Puls QS40.484 power supply. Puls advertises their Q-series power supplies as quality products so I decided to take a look what is inside.Teardown photos:Puls QS40.484Teardowns made by mikeselectricstuff:
AliveCor Heart Monitor - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mtdoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2015, 07:26:40 pm
content: I'm currently attending a wilderness medicine conference and there are several new electronic gadgets for health and medicine in remote or wilderness settings.One of the speakers recomended theAliveCor heart monitor.I cannot find anything online about the technical specifications. Does anyone have any knowledge about these.?I'm assuming it uses one of the many versions of standard ECG DAQ circuits with 60 Hz notch filter, etc. but i'd really like more info -- resolution, battery life, etc..http://www.alivecor.com/home

author: babysitter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 12, 2015, 08:06:29 pm
content: A good starting point is always the 510K notification of the device you want to know about. These point to the precdicate devices its compared to... which, in turn, also have either a 510K or a "big" notification.Let the challenge begin:http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/cdrh_docs/pdf14/K140933.pdf
Flashing AT29C010A and Eprom programer recommendation - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: orion242
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 07, 2015, 02:27:20 am
content: I'm trying to flash a AT29C010A with the minipro TL866A and not having any luck with multiple chips. They all fail within pretty quick in the process. Reading back the failed attempt it almost looks like it botches the first 256 bytes, then the next 256 seem to be ok, and then another botched 256 bytes, then another block that looks good. I assume something screwed up in their software and this specific flash.Anyhow I'm about to give up on the TL866 and shell out for something like the Xeltek SuperPro 610P. I really don't want to get the superpro and find out $600 latter that this thing will not work either. Anyone have any experience with 610P? Any idea if the same adapters for the TL866A work with 610P? Any other low-mid cost programmers that work with the AT29C010?Any help / comments would be appreciated.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 08, 2015, 11:19:05 am
content: You can select some other compatible flash in settings and try to program. Maybe it helps. Or selecting 2 times bigger size the same series flash (AT29C020). Programming lower size flash usually works on higher size setting. Also, those AT29C010A aren't from the ebay by chance?

author: orion242
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 09, 2015, 12:13:31 pm
content: Will give that a try, thanks.Well I had the same thought, bad chips from a doggy source. So I got a set from Ebay, a surplus supplier in the US, and the original chips from the device at hand. All three give the same results with the mini pro. While the Ebay ones look suspect, they came in antistatic plastic bag which each chip heat sealed in its own pouch, the US surplus supplier had them in traditional tube/trays and look legit. Unless I'm really unlucky, it has to be something with the minipro.

author: orion242
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: April 13, 2015, 11:14:15 pm
content: After dinking around more with the minipro and trying the different sizes (nothing worked) I broke down and got the Xeltek SuperPro 610P.The 610P with the minipro PLCC32 adapter worked right away. So its definitely something with the minipro and this specific flash. The mini did me well for most things I tossed at it, but you get what you pay for.

author: SoundTech-LG
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 15, 2015, 02:14:12 pm
content: I have not had any real problems using the TL866 yet, but I have only programmed Dallas 1225P, and 27C256 OTP, and UV erasable EPROMS so far, but it sounds like you may have found a legitimate fault using your flash device. Good info to have.
Anyone know what the cheapest laptop model battery packs are salvage cells from? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: salil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 01:16:37 am
content: Has anyone already investigated this? What laptops' knock off battery packs are selling for the very cheapest? I'm looking to salvage a bunch of dirt cheap lipo cells for a project (also looking for LiFe..but I doubt any laptop batteries use those).

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 03:04:36 am
content: Just buy bare cells/packs from Hobbyking.

author: peter.mitchell
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 03:57:23 am
content: or if you want cylindrical cells, check out fasttech, they have a huge variety

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 09:45:47 am
content: If you really want thecheapest18650 cells then just buy some *fire... you're not going to get much capacity though.

author: thm_w
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 11:09:55 pm
content: Free: go to staples and rummage through their battery recycling bin.Cheap: I see genuine dell/etc packs BIN on ebay for <$10.In both cases you would want to characterize each cell to confirm it is functional. Depending on your project it may not be worth the time, due to mixing/charging different capacity cells..

author: Rick Law
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2015, 07:24:34 pm
content: The recycled/savaged laptop battery likely is not going to carry much capacity, and there is certain risk involved.My view is, the savage ones are if you already have them. If you are going to spend money on it, get a better one.

author: eas
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 09, 2015, 02:09:05 am
content: I wouldn't screw around with knock-off replacement packs. Hard to know what you are getting.How many cells do you need? What kind of initial capacity do you need?I've had some luck finding new-old-stock packs on ebay. For a long time there was someone selling ~4-5 year old 6 cell acer packs for $2. The Samsung 2,600mAh cells inside tested at 2,500-2,600 mAh capacity. They must have had hundreds of them, but they finally sold out.If I just needed halfway decent cells, I'd see what I could scrounge up for free from recycling bins or get from a used PC place for not more than a buck or two each.

author: smjcuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 10, 2015, 08:15:49 am
content: Dead Lenovo thinkpad packs tend to have nice good quality Sanyo 18650s in them. Also they tend to still hold quite a good charge (70%+) after the battery controller has decided that they don't, which is really annoying if you're using them for the original purpose.I've got a 6 cell in my junk drawer that is going to be harvested at some point.
CastAR developer glasses teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: mikeselectricstuff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 08:38:58 pm
content: http://youtu.be/WipDp7-zSZo

author: hagster
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 04, 2015, 06:20:38 am
content: Great work Mike. Very interesting.
Max discharge rate of Energizer AA rechargeable Ni-Mh batteries? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: salil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 01:34:41 am
content: Has anyone tested what the maximum discharge rate is of those Energizer AA Ni-Mh household rechargeable batteries you see everywhere in stores (atleast, here in the USA)? I recall reading an article somewhere where they tested up to 4A sustained draw at which point the current capacity sharply declined but I'm wondering how much more sustained draw they could handle before leaking?

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 01:43:41 am
content: http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/nh15-2300.pdfHas a 2C (4.6A) discharge curve.http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/nickelmetalhydride_appman.pdfhas buried in it a 4C max discharge rate for their NiMH batteries.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 05:26:35 am
content: Tagged cells will do the 4A, but untagged cells will have a problem with the contacts heating up. If you are going to do this I would recommend using lithium cells from Hobbyking, as used in RC models, as the current capability is so much better, even if you do need a more sophisticated charger for them.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 06, 2015, 05:47:50 am
content: For certain its going to need something better than a crappy nylon battery holder that stacks two cells in series in the same section with a plated steel spring at the -ve end.However if there's enough good copper in the contacts, with enough contact aand adequate contact pressure, getting 4A without excessive heating shouldn't be impossible.More worrying is the prospect of fake batteries which may react violently to being subjected to a 2C discharge rate. A venting NiMH wont spoil your day quite as much as a burning LiPO will, but boiling KOH solution is still pretty nasty stuff to be spraying around.

author: HKJ
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 07, 2015, 07:21:21 am
content: Quality NiMH can easily do 4A current draw.You can compare a couple of discharge curves here:http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/CommonAAcomparator.phpThe Energizer is not included yet.
sources for small amounts of cheap high melting point solder? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 09:32:20 am
content: is there a source where I could get a short lenght of high melting point solder. Wikipedia has a list of a TON of solders, some with a very high melting point.Like, AU52 Au82In18, 450C.The only thing I can find on ebay is multicore 300C HMP solder.

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 09:38:02 am
content: Welding supply store which will have silver solder in rod form. I use them for copper tube and general brazing.

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 05:16:50 pm
content: that is only really applicable with a flame though.I was looking from 350-500ish

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 05:24:29 pm
content: 760C is high melting point though. I have used it to make brazed on terminals on welding cables, though there the insulation did need to be replaced with heatshrink afterwards as it did not survive.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 06:22:49 pm
content: Pure lead is 327C, if it doesn't need to be RoHS.Zn and Al based alloys are probably too aggressive towards copper to use in an electrical context... but it's not obvious what you want, as it's not like anything FR-4 survives up there or anything...Silver solders (i.e., braze, not "silver bearing" tin alloys) dip down into that range, but many use Cd to achieve that low MP. Use carefully (and definitely keep RoHS away).Tim

author: SArepairman
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 07:52:17 pm
content: cadium is nasty for high temp applications because it has a low vapor pressure, I don't really trust a Cd alloy. No one besides the KGB (or fsb now) wants a heavy metal "odoroizer"
Hakko tip fit - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: GoneTomorrow
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2015, 12:05:12 am
content: Quick question; how snug should the T18 tips fit over the heater on an 888D? Recently purchased a genuine station plus an assortment of genuine tips, and they definitely do not fit snugly in my opinion. From what I've read they should be fitting fairly tight, and it's the fakes that have the sloppy tips.Basically, it slides over the element with zero force, even it's own weight on a slight incline will slide it right down. Once it's fully over the heater, there's still noticeable play, in that there is some lateral movement when I wiggle it around. Seems like this would be hurting heat transfer to the tip.Anyone got any reports of how their tips are fitting?

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2015, 12:32:20 am
content: Yep there is some variation of how tips fit and clamp down.I have 3 pencils for 2 stations and occasionally I have to swap barrels arround to clamp tips properly.This is most important IMO, more so than a slightly loose fit.I don't like too tight a fit on the heater element, I've had one seize on and be a mongrel to remove.

author: amyk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2015, 12:36:33 am
content: There needs to be a small bit of clearance as otherwise thermal expansion might cause the tip to squeeze the heater too tightly and crack it when it heats up.

author: GoneTomorrow
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2015, 02:28:11 am
content: I guess I'm just hoping I didn't get some faulty undersized heater.

author: Shock
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: May 01, 2015, 03:51:35 am
content: The tips are lose fitting, the element gets red hot. Don't wriggle it around, just anchor the tip in place otherwise you may accidentally damage it.You have reason to be suspicious of buying a fake seems lots of people have been caught out by not buying them from genuine Hakko dealers.
"induction" hot plates with "digital readout" Cheap- OK for reflow? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2015, 04:10:06 pm
content: They are cheap, ($30-50 USD) new- and have a digital readout. Lots of the same model pop up on (US) ebay searches for hotplates.Obviously I am wondering about the "induction" part. I don't know if they actually do use induction or whether that is just a sales gimmick. I dn't see them saying, for example, tat you cannot use glass cookware, also, they dont look like they contain a transformer of any kind.Has anybody tried them for reflow? They are completely flat and have a digital temperature display. I like the ability to see the solder change from gray to shiny up close.Sparkfun's tutorial mentions that hot plates are the best performing reflow method for small scale production for them. And also the cheapest. Cheap is good.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2015, 04:35:49 pm
content: If you don't see a conventional direct conduction element, you don't see a glass top over IR elements, its gotta be induction. If so its unusable for reflow without a thick copper/steel sandwich heating tray as if used directly the induced voltage will kill any semiconductor junction connected to a medium or long trace that isn't radial to the heating coil and radial or short traces will never get hot enough to melt solder.The so-called temperature control is unlikely to be particularly good - its more likely to be a crude power control that pulses it on and off several times a minuite like a microwave does.

author: sotos
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: April 02, 2015, 06:55:50 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on April 02, 2015, 04:35:49 pmExactly like that. They don’t have a temperature controller, they just narrow and wide the pulses. I repaired 2 of them and I will post some pictures.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 02:37:18 am
content: *DEFINITELY* no good, unless you use at least 1/8" (3mm) solid aluminum plate inbetween! At which point, you're no better off than an electric skillet type appliance, so...The induction is definitely real -- if you put a circuit board on there, expect to see around 1-100 volts, and 10-1000 amperes, swimming around various traces on the board. If your board uses lots of solid ground plane / pour, it will surely get hot, but the components won't be too happy about it.Or...If you enjoy Magic Smoke-flavored popcorn... go for itTim

author: cdev
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 03, 2015, 02:48:14 am
content: Thank you all for this info, thats kind of what I suspected. Oh well.I have an unused toaster oven that i can add a controller to, I think i am probably going to do that.
What's TARIC code for a SBC? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bitwelder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 31, 2015, 09:13:49 pm
content: What is the TARIC code for a single board computer like e.g. a Raspberry Pi or a Beagleboard?I have aUSB armorywaiting at the customs and they are asking me the TARIC class.I can find a code for full sized computers or even palmtops, but I can't spot one for teeny tiny SBC.

author: CrashO
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 31, 2015, 09:33:55 pm
content: 8471490090That it?

author: bitwelder
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: April 01, 2015, 05:36:43 am
content: Thanks, it seems appropriate enough
Inside a TPMS diagnostic tool - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2015, 06:47:03 pm
content: I had a opportunity to look inside a USB based device for talking to and diagnosing a tire pressure monitoring sensor.The issue was that they could read one sensor but it would refuse to read any more.I took the opportunity to open it up and it was about 90% an arduino inside. It had an Atmega64 and an FTDI chip and not much else.The communication works by placing against the tire near the valve stem and telling the laptop to read the sensor.There are two antennas inside. One is a ferrite rod about 1cm in diameter about 5 or 6 cm long that is wrapped with copper wire. It strongly resembled an old AM radio antenna but thicker. The other one looked like a 1/4 wave ISM band antenna that you might see on a Bluetooth dongle.I suspect the ferrite rod antenna is to power the sensor and the shorter one to receive the data.When a reading is initiated the ferrite antenna feels like it very slightly pulls on a screwdriver placed on it.I don't recall seeing any other ICs on the board so it may have all been done through the PWM and ADC.If I get a chance ever to look at it again I'll look under the board.The issue ended up being the USB connection to the computer was slightly loose. I bent the USB cable connector slightly so it gripped a little more firmly and it worked fine after that.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2015, 10:08:51 pm
content: Pictures seem to be missing...

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 30, 2015, 03:03:10 am
content: Quote from: NiHaoMike on March 29, 2015, 10:08:51 pmUnfortunately cameras were not permitted where I was, so I had to describe it.
Recommend me interesting or funky new ICs to purchase - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MasterBuilder
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2015, 03:29:22 pm
content: Please recommend interesting ICs to purchase.I'm doing some component ordering and would like to add some interesting ICs for playing around with. I've already included a PSOC device. What other interesting devices are around? Anything that is new and multipurpose or can do unusual audio/video things is especially interesting.List:Cypress PSOCST VNP10N07 VNI8200XPTR STC03DE220HVActel ?

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2015, 03:44:31 pm
content: Protected transistors? Current sense transistors or FET's.VNP10N07 VNI8200XPTR STC03DE220HV

author: AlfBaz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2015, 03:49:00 pm
content: sensor devices and mems ic's can be interesting to play around with

author: DmitryL
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2015, 04:03:26 pm
content: Quote from: MasterBuilder on March 28, 2015, 03:29:22 pmI would recommentd something from top-range Actel's stuff. Just throw 5 or ten of different chips into the shopping basket, you can always play with them later.Very useful and interesting things:)

author: MasterBuilder
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2015, 05:31:04 pm
content: Quote from: AlfBaz on March 28, 2015, 03:49:00 pmAny device part number in particular?

author: Jeroen3
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2015, 06:41:52 pm
content: Maybe an ST VL6180X.

author: Stonent
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 28, 2015, 09:09:12 pm
content: 6502 or z80, some SRAM, 3 to 8 decoders, some eeproms, 74ls156. Build a computer.OK so not quite new or funky.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 29, 2015, 03:36:51 am
content: Not a bare chip but some cheap HDMI splitters are surprisingly hackable.http://hackaday.com/2015/03/12/hdmi-splitter-is-also-a-decrypter/There are many legitimate uses ranging from fixing "compatibility" issues with some displays to recording PS3 gaming. Also a great workaround for a HDMI receiver that adds too much lag to the video.
eGPU - Mini-PCIe or ExpressCard - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: IuriC
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2015, 05:06:56 pm
content: Hi,after read about a external graphic card for laptop in a recent HaD post (http://hackaday.com/2015/03/26/a-laptop-with-an-external-graphics-card/), I found a new usage for my old laptopGoogling around I found this product:http://www.aliexpress.com/item/EXP-GDC-Laptop-External-External-PCI-E-graphics-card-BEAST-Mini-PCI-E-Set/32224849158.htmland comes with Mini-PCIe or ExpressCard connector.My question is, which one of those should I get for a better performance? My laptop have both PCIe and ExpressCard.Thank you!

author: Scrts
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 27, 2015, 09:22:11 pm
content: So if'd go to google and ask it?http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ExpressCardhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_ExpressThe bandwidth is on the right side.
Packard 1000 TR Liquid Scintillation Analyzer Teardown - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dexters_lab
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 25, 2015, 08:11:50 pm
content: Fresh from ebay...have begun dismantling and tearing down this packard 1000 tr scintillation analyzer. It dates from around 1996. Its probably functional but i bought it for the lead and the photomultipliers. The lead alone is worth more as scrap than i paid for the whole unit.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_scintillation_countingI will be splitting into multiple videos, it would just get too long otherwise.
How do you call this cable - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: flyingtoaster
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 23, 2015, 05:01:03 pm
content: Hi!I'm kind of despairing. I want to connect the LCD panel of my old notebook to my computer.I bought a LCD controller from China and until now everything works like a charmBut to mount the construction properly I need to extend the cable between the LCD:and the controller:Do I have to solder it?I didn't find anything on the internet. I don't even know how you call the connectors...Can you help me?

author: ajb
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2015, 06:21:33 pm
content: It would be helpful to have some dimensions, or at least the pitch. The black one looks like a standard unkeyed rectangular housing, but it could be 2.54mm, 2mm, or 1.27mm. A less-blurry end-on view of the white connector would help as well.Do you need to plug those to connectors into one another, or do you need to swap one for the other?

author: senso
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2015, 09:19:15 pm
content: Its an LVDS cable, search for that, but extending it might introduce noise into the image.

author: daybyter
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2015, 09:34:24 pm
content: I'd call the 2nd connector a pin-header-connector.https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/connector-basics/pin-header-connectors

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2015, 12:02:49 am
content: Depending on how long you want to extend, I'd probably cut the existing conductors and replace / extend them to fit.Keep note of the twist length and pairs - that is important!

author: miguelvp
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 24, 2015, 03:34:48 am
content: How is the controller attached to the PC? VGA, DVI, HDMI?because you can always extend it that way instead of dealing with the lvds cable.Full LCD wine box monitor buildhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/microcontrollers/tft-lcd-for-raspberry-pi-b/msg606242/#msg606242
where I can buy step up transformer DC to DC 24v to 110v - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Unelma
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2015, 08:39:59 am
content: Where I can buy step up transformer DC to DC 24v to 110v.I need quality one. Kiitos Thank you

author: Unelma
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2015, 10:00:30 am
content: 100w to 200w.

author: sacherjj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2015, 11:29:04 am
content: A transformer that steps down from 110V to 24V will also step up to 110V from 24V if you drive the secondary. If you follow the power rating of the transformer, you are fine.

author: wraper
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 19, 2015, 11:34:53 am
content: Transformers don't work on DC

author: klr5205
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2015, 11:35:58 am
content: You may get better results searching for "Boost Converter".

author: sacherjj
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2015, 01:57:01 pm
content: I totally skipped over that small DC fact. Dolt!I would be looking at something like the LT3862. It has a high voltage drive for a high voltage source drain MOSFET. That is if you want to build one.I haven't seen that high of output voltage on a premade DC boost module. How accurate does the DC need to be?

author: Seekonk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2015, 05:04:08 pm
content: I buy dead 12V inverters that usually have a bad H bridge. I tear out the H bridge and use 140V DC inverter out to run CFL and electronics like DVD players etc. Easy to bridge the feedback resistor to get 120V DC.

author: AlphZeta
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2015, 05:11:08 pm
content: Assuming you need a transformer to build a DC-DC converter, the cheapeast way to go is to salvage a transformer from a 24V UPS (you can pick up one cheaply on eBay).

author: Unelma
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2015, 05:22:30 am
content: Thanks for the tips. I found this one just what I was looking for.www.directindustry.com/prod/absopulse-electronics-ltd/switch-mode-dc-dc-converters-encapsulated-low-profile-railway-applications-34349-1464113.html
Swiss Made Duratool Cutters & Pliers (rebranded Ideal-Tek) - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 19, 2015, 07:00:35 pm
content: MCM Electronics is currently sellingDuratoollabel at decent prices (US, possibly CAN).Even better pricing if you get a discount code, which they offer frequently.Seems they're actually rebranded Ideal-Tek (rebranded as Lindstrom's EX line for example), so at these prices, quite a deal.Duratool Photos:Ideal-Tek Photos:Look the same to me, but you be the judge.Hope this helps.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2015, 08:03:58 pm
content: Quote from: mojo-chan on March 20, 2015, 09:02:06 amSort of....MCM Electronics is owned by Farnell, and it's Farnell that own the private label of Duratool.FWIW, they also own Tenma, Defender Security, Stellar Labs, MCM Audio Select, and MCM Custom Audio, according to Wiki.But Farnell doesn't keep it to themselves, as it's available from other sources such asAmazonandMicroCenter. Neither of which are owned by Farnell.Quote from: mojo-chan on March 20, 2015, 09:02:06 amCOO & quality seems to be all over the place. But if you look carefully, there are some gems amongst the crap (there's also some normal sized cutters & pliers from Germany).As per electronic pliers and cutters made in Switzerland, it's either Erem or Ideal-Tek, and both will do ODM. And they're not hard to differentiate, as Erem's springs are internal.

author: nanofrog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 23, 2015, 10:49:54 pm
content: Quote from: mojo-chan on March 23, 2015, 10:41:59 amDefinitely a PITA as a general rule (incl. on cost; I hate over-paying, especially so when it's crap), but on rare occasion, it can lead to quality tools, gear, ... at a very good price due to obscurity of a particular make/model.These seem to be one of those, as street prices seem to fall in the ~$50 - 52 range for cutters & ~$41 - 47 for pliers (fromStuller). Worst case, you'll only save $9.76 if you go for the most expensive cutter of these MCM has in stock. But it's more like ~$15+ per though, and that adds up quick.Amazon has prices in excess of $100 per (here).Definitely been drinking some of Steve's special Kool Aid.
Atmel Studio "Cannot find one or more components" - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: JackP
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 15, 2015, 06:43:22 pm
content: Hi,I posted recently to ask about a problem with the AVR Dragon. Now, I am having problems with Atmel Studio 6.2 itself. I have tried to use Notepad ++ with some custom macros to use avrdude, but that didn't quite work as expected (I would appreciate some help with this as it is my favourite editor, and the tutorial I found wasn't particularly helpful). Anyway, the message I get when starting AS is, "Cannot find one or more components. Please reinstall the application". I have reinstalled 3 times, and tried repairing it twice, but still no luck. When I do start it, after dismissing the alert, the splash screen remains until a full computer restart. I hope you can help me with either of these queries, as I am unable to program my ICs at the moment.Thanks,Jack

author: JackP
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2015, 07:15:27 pm
content: Does anyone have any ideas?Thanks

author: neslekkim
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2015, 08:26:18 pm
content: tried to start the ide from commandline with /resetsettings? provided that it support it..

author: JackP
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 21, 2015, 08:34:44 pm
content: May I ask how I should go about that? I have little experience with command prompts. Thanks for your help.

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2015, 10:49:18 am
content: QuoteWhat was it asking you to reinstall? and what did you reinstal?

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2015, 11:01:57 am
content: Atmel Studio is pretty much Microsoft Visual Studio under the hood.This bug looks to be to do with mixing Visual Studio with Windows 8This solution might be worth trying.http://stackoverflow.com/questions/26176476/how-to-fix-visual-studio-error-cannot-find-one-or-more-components-please-re-in

author: JackP
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2015, 11:03:11 am
content: In the message, it said "Please reinstall the application". I then uninstalled AS6, and downloaded a new .exe file, which when run would produce the same error. I repeated this twice.Thanks for your help

author: dannyf
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2015, 11:14:54 am
content: So you think "the application" is AS6?Is it possible that it is something else? Like ASF?

author: JackP
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2015, 12:07:48 pm
content: That's what I thought, so I just uninstalled the program. What do I need to do to ASF?
Why do so many powered USB 3.0 hubs have dedicated "charging ports"?  - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: salil
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2015, 05:05:37 am
content: Why not just design the hub with more power supplied to each of the data ports? The reason I ask is because it seems to be difficult to determine how much power these usb 3.0 hubs can supply to each data port based on their descriptions since a large portion of the implied current draw may be going to the dedicated charging ports.Here's an example of one of these USB 3.0 hubs with dedicated charging ports:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S4UDBGI/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1427000301&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=usb+hub+3.0+4a

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 22, 2015, 05:44:34 am
content: Because there is a cost associated with making each port data capable, while adding power only ports just requires a bigger PSU.
Found and interesting input device, does anybody know what it's used for? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: MrB
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 20, 2015, 03:48:41 pm
content: I found a weird device in our schools parts bin and am wondering what it was used for.On the left we find a female VGA header, a male on on the right. It passes VGA video without a problem. All VGA connections are passed through, expect for the Hsync and Vsync which seem to be passed through a D-flipflop first.The device has an USB cable and is recognized as an Mouse when plugged in, which makes sense as there's a optical mouse sensor present (datasheethttp://www.teleic.com/pdf/om02-spec040210.pdf).There's a 555 timer on it, and an optocoupler too. Searching the part numbers on Google didn't grand me any results.I assume it's used as some sort of custom input device the uses the optical sensor as a cheap alternative to a custom part.Thanks in advance!

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2015, 04:11:10 pm
content: There's no optics for the mouse sensor, so I suspect its a 'keep awake' circuit. When the monitor goes into a power saving mode, one or both of the sync signals shuts off. The 555 will be configured as a missing pulse detector and the optocoupler will then transfer that to the mouse section as a button click to wake the PC up again.

author: Lightages
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: March 20, 2015, 04:38:49 pm
content: Some kind of light pen interface? Just a wild guess.....

author: MrB
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: March 20, 2015, 04:58:14 pm
content: Quote from: Ian.M on March 20, 2015, 04:11:10 pmInteresting theory. Might verify this later.Quote from: Lightages on March 20, 2015, 04:38:49 pmWild guess, but very plausible as my school has a lot of "smartboards". I'm however still wondering then why it needs to pass through the VGA signal...

author: SeanB
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 20, 2015, 05:27:39 pm
content: Will not be a mouse click but will be a simple mouse movement, so that the display does not go into a sleep state when it tries to enter a low power mode. Most likely it simply emulates the scroll wheel moving one click by pulsing the one opto input, so it simply scrolls up then down again. the additional inputs there are for a push button forward and back system to the PC, these will emulate all three push buttons, allowing a left click to do one direction and a middle click the other direction.
HP 9000 utility board high res scan and guesswork - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: daqq
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: March 17, 2015, 02:48:58 pm
content: Hi guys,I took a scan of one of the weirder boards in my box of weird:http://www.daqq.eu/?p=1247And did some guesswork about what works how. Enjoy!David