Methods of packing heavy equipment for shipping? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: bitbanger
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2019, 06:04:44 am
content: I was tempted to post this is WTB/WTS forum but thought better of it...I've been shipping gear (PSU, loads, scopes, etc) for several years, and my go-to method has always been static bag (if I have one large enough and it's appropriate), cardboard over any screens/displays, followed by tightly wrapping and taping with large bubble wrap.I then fill the box voids with rolled up/folded pieces of bubble wrap or if I have it, re-used compressible foam.I don't run a business, but ship enough stuff that I'm curious to hear your methods. I recently received a scope packed between those expanding foam bags. Are these available for purchase individually, without a foam injection system?Reason I ask is that the large heavy duty bubble wrap is often very tough to find, expensive, and ultimately time consuming. Many times I've worked at a company with easy access to "scrap" supplies, but when I don't I find it tough to spend the money on expensive bubble wrap.Thoughts?

author: DuPe
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2019, 07:24:31 am
content: foam bags:https://www.amazon.de/Instapak-Quick-RT-Starterpack-S/dp/B010AHH9KQ/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&keywords=schaumverpackung&qid=1566631096&s=gateway&sr=8-5

author: Iceberg86300
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 24, 2019, 03:44:37 pm
content: ~7 years ago I went to a bunch of shipping places & found the foam to be prohibitively expensive. Much more than bubble wrap unless it was a high volume thing.Couple cans of expanding insulation foam &a few garbage bags were very cheap in comparison.Make sure the gear is bagged up tight, put it on a few standoffs in the box & spray in your foam. Add another bag to separate the top from the bottom & inject more foam to create the top. You can attempt to close up the box when you think you're close but I've found it just makes a MASSIVE mess.So I'd recommend to let it set up & hot wire or saw off the top even with the box & you're good to go. Has worked fine for ~5 power supplies/scopes so far.You're pretty much just DIYing your own bags of expanding shipping foam.Regards,Steve

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 26, 2019, 09:20:22 am
content: I use heavy boxes and styrofoam insulation sheets (1 & 2" thick) cut to fit and immobilize the piece of gear. I've used this method quite a few times to ship old HP instruments (often weighing 30-50 lbs each) from California home to CT.Additional photos and descriptions of what I do are in the photo descriptions in the instrument packing gallery:https://pmanning.smugmug.com/Electronics/Packing-heavy-instruments-forThese shipments are typically in boxes 24" on a side, and normally wind up weighing between 80 and 110 or so pounds (two instruments in the box). Knock on wood they've made it safely so far...-Pat

author: SL4P
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 01:30:06 am
content: Depending on the object, foam may simply transmit a shock to the device.Consider different rates of acceleration at different amplitudes & frequencies, and different modes of movement.e.g. foam and air pillows, soft foam & polystyrene, cardboard, peanuts, rubber suspension, hangers etc.

author: Psi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 01:45:00 am
content: Quote from: bitbanger on August 24, 2019, 06:04:44 amIt's a chemical reaction when you break the two internal compartments and the chemicals mix. Takes 30 seconds or so.No external equipment required.They are really fun to use and useful for contouring a box to fit your item, but they are quite expensive.

author: tautech
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 05:56:29 am
content: Custom built styrofoam insulation sheets like Cubdriver but with less contact points so to allow more clearance around instruments inside thick corrugated cardboard boxes. Then strapped to a custom wooden pallet and stretch film over the top and all sides.A dozen DSO's is then a easy 2 man lift.

author: hendorog
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 06:44:28 am
content: The OPs Bubble wrap isnt so great at protecting the corners. That is where a heavy box will usually land if dropped, and the force is going to be massive. Generally speaking, if you protect the corners then you should be ok.First thing I do is lock in the corners with reused polystyrene 'corners' and then some softer foam between that and the instrument wrapped in bubble wrap - if possible given the size of the box. Ideally flat polystyrene sheets on each flat side. Otherwise cardboard and foam or peanuts or whatever I have.Expanding foam sounds great but I would want to check that it can take multiple impacts.Only shipped a few things, but almost all has been heavy, fragile boat anchors. No problems so far.

author: Cubdriver
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 28, 2019, 07:21:26 am
content: I'm not so sure the 'Great Stuff' kind of expanding foam insulation is a good idea for this sort of thing. My understanding is that it needs either exposure to air or to the moisture in the air to properly cure (don't recall exactly, but am pretty sure it's one of the two). If you fill a plastic bag with it, you'll end up with a plastic bag full of sticky goo, and if you line a box with a plastic sheet, spray the foam in then cover it with another sheet and put your instrument on that, the stuff in the middle won't properly cure for a very long time if ever because it winds up sealed away. The commercial expanding packing foams I've seen are two part and cure through the chemical reaction between the two components when they're mixed, rather than by exposure to air or moisture.That said, the soft foams like that (commercial) are great for either lightweight things, or for heavy things that have very broad surfaces. Heavy and narrow or sharp objects will pulverize them, then wind up bouncing around and getting trashed. I used to work for a company that was the US distributor for a series of RF generators that were made in Germany. They were pretty hefty things in rack mount enclosures, the most popular ones coming in 19” wide 2 RU tall cabinets that were about 20 inches deep, and weighed around 25-35 lbs (roughly 10-15 kilos). Initially they were shipping them in cartons with dense foam-rubber corners that simply held the generator centered in the carton. These always arrived unscathed.Then they got a foam-in-place system. And I got really good at doing body work and straightening bent rack ears, even occasionally completely replacing mangled front panels that were beyond straightening. Vertically, the foam was great; held the units perfectly. Laterally? Forget it! Based on what I saw, it wouldn't take too much bouncing around for the narrow bands of foam on the sides (the strength of which was further compromised by also being where the seam between the top and bottom foam sections would naturally fall) would start to break down as the heavy cabinet shifted side to side. As it gave way, the generator would then have freedom of movement to build up some momentum, causing higher loads and accelerating the demise of the side foam. Soon rack ears and cartons would meet, and ultimately I'd get to break out my hammer and dolly. Once they were fixed, for shipment to the end customer I'd squash down the damaged foam and make up ethafoam 'L' pieces to fit between the corners and cartons, and put the expanded foam sheet back on the top. With the ethafoam holding it laterally, and the expanding foam top and bottom, they would then be fine for the remainder of their journeys.I practically begged them to put higher density foam on the narrow corners to alleviate that problem, but they never did.Anyway, horses for courses, and the key is to immobilize what you"re shipping in the box, while still allowing at least a little 'give' for shock absorption. Two things that are sort of at cross-purpose, making it something of a challenge.-Pat