How to remove dent in BNC connector without removing it from transceiver? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / repair

author: Neutral1
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 12:13:05 pm
content: Hi,Would it be possible to remove a dent in a BNC connector without removing it from the transceiver?Thank youAndrew.

author: inse
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 12:23:32 pm
content: Difficult, as those connectors are usually made from brass which is ‚brittle‘

author: tggzzz
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 12:25:27 pm
content: Judicious use of small and large pliers.The right size of a (leatherworking) hollow punch.Soldering iron and replacement socket

author: abdulbadii
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 12:28:54 pm
content: diameter ?C clamp with a bit smaller than such should workif it' so little, nearly impossible in market,then make one with bracket, bored to be put a nut, put through it bolt of that size with jaw lips extended to the target dent

author: jamesglanville
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 12:36:41 pm
content: Might be worth finding a pass through adapter to permanently attach after you fix it. I bet I’ll chew up cables if you don’t get it perfect.

author: Ian.M
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 12:47:01 pm
content: Quote from: Neutral1 on December 30, 2022, 12:13:05 pmMaybe, but there is a fairly high risk that it will split the connector shell as brass tends to be brittle once bent, and you may make the problem much worse by ripping the connector shell loose from the front panel or PCB.You could try reshaping it with miniature smooth flat jawed pliers with jaws no more than one quarter of the connector wide, but results are likely to be unsatisfactory.Edit: unless you get the expensive pliers Fraser recommends below.I would start with a round polished steel rod that closely fits inside a similar BNC connector, and grind (or file) a flat on it so it can fit in the damaged connector. Then grind the corner between one edge of the flat and the original circumference in a gradual curve so as you turn it, it does not try to move the whole dent at once. Sand smooth and polish the ground parts of the rod as friction is your enemy! A close-fitting clamp round the outside of the connector to support it will also help - you can make such a clamp by drilling then slitting a piece of hardwood, metal or hard engineering plastic, preferably a piece long enough to use as a handle so you don't twist the connector off the panel or PCB, notching the hole to fit over the BNC locking lugs, then cross-drilling for a pair of small nuts and bolts either side of the connector hole to clamp the slit back together.Lubricate the rod with a small smear of petroleum jelly, insert it in the damaged connector and turn it so the dent is forced out - you will either need a right-angle bend in the rod as a handle, or to use Mole grips or similar locking pliers. If you manage to get the dent most of the way out, you may need to squeeze the connecter shell wall against the other, still round, end of the rod to complete re-shaping it. Protect the plating on the outside of the BNC with a couple of layers of tough tape, and use smooth-jawed pliers. Check for fit with a BNC plug. Finally clean the lubricant out of the BNC socket (and plug) with plenty of switch cleaner.

author: AndyBeez
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 12:49:07 pm
content: I would try working the bend from the inside with something like a wooden dowel or a plastic rawl plug. Basically anything that's round in profile and is soft enough as to not mark the metal. Difficult to know just how much force to use though. If you're going to use big tools like pliers or Mole's, cover the case to avoid accidentally gouging the control panel.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 01:00:13 pm
content: I have used parallel jaw pliers for similar tasks. They come with many different jaw formats and are commonly used in jewellery making. I used the half moon concave-convex jaw version to bring a socket back to round. There are convex-flat jaw versions as well.Not cheap, but very usefulI have a few in my specialist tools box for occasions when they are the perfect fit for an otherwise challenging taskhttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222096207434?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=UXoIRJD1QOC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=BgpdXaaLSkK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPYA good selection are shown here….https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115031457624?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=hbbxu5BqTSq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=BgpdXaaLSkK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPYhttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293068888460?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ITbkLSFaTku&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=BgpdXaaLSkK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPYTBA

author: coromonadalix
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 03:36:06 pm
content: Quote from: Fraser on December 30, 2022, 01:00:13 pm+1 had to use one of these pliers .... if you go slowly, it could work, without breaking

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 10:46:10 pm
content: If you have a full socket set, then one of the sockets is likely a good fit for the inside.

author: Neomys Sapiens
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 11:02:15 pm
content: Quote from: Fraser on December 30, 2022, 01:00:13 pmI presume yours are from Maun?

author: Neomys Sapiens
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 11:05:49 pm
content: I have a set of inside chucks for a watchmakers lathe. Normally they are used to hold something for turning from the inside. One of them might be strong enough to un-dent the connector. althoughI would prefer exchanging it.

author: fenugrec
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: December 30, 2022, 11:13:30 pm
content: Not the answer you're looking for, but I wonder if Yaesu sells parts directly ? This would be # P1091117 or P1091117A, but I bet many generic bulkhead BNC with a seal would work.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 06:43:13 am
content: replace it. You would need bored out go-nogo gauges to test if your repair is any good

author: vk6zgo
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 07:45:39 am
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on December 31, 2022, 06:43:13 amIt's only a BNC connector on a ham radio--it's not like it is an automotive part with precise tolerances.From my experience with Yaesu, it will probably be hard to replace with a standard BNC, as the mounting method for the socket, or, if it is a simple threaded type, the thread depth, will be different.

author: bingo600
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 09:16:39 am
content: Doesn't seem to "ugly" to connect a replacementhttps://www.radioworld.co.uk/yaesu-ft-817-ft-817nd-p1091117b-replacement-bnc-socketGotta keep those 817/818 alive.Yaesu has EOL'ed them

author: mzzj
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 01:51:56 pm
content: Quote from: Neomys Sapiens on December 30, 2022, 11:05:49 pmExpanding mandrel or blind hole bearing puller could be also close to what you need. Or cheap expanding circlip pliers with tips filed/ground to same radius as BNC connector bore.

author: richnormand
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 04:19:36 pm
content: This is what I use in similar situations.Stainless steel pliers for braces.I also have one with a carbide insert for cutting extra hard wires.Both are from ebay in the orthodontic tool section.They do see a fair amount of usage on the bench.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 06:59:58 pm
content: IMO a radio is very important and it could have so many problems that a 5$ connector is the last thing you want to jury rig.Like, what if it starts damaging cables? What if its alot weaker after the repair?IMO things on front panel need the most care taken

author: Tomorokoshi
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 09:45:23 pm
content: Quote from: David Hess on December 30, 2022, 10:46:10 pmYes, this is the way to go. I don't recall exactly which one, but usually the 1/4" drive metric sockets somewhere between 5mm and 6mm have a slope that fits inside the outer conductor while having enough clearance in the center to fit around the center conductor. Test-fit on a good BNC. Tap lightly with a small hammer.

author: Fraser
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 10:19:13 pm
content: I cannot recommend hammering on the BNC socket in this case, even if done carefully. The front panel and chassis is not designed to undergo the shock of a hammer striking the socket, especially if the BNC mounting detail is not known to be impact tolerant.Fraser

author: MikeK
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: December 31, 2022, 11:19:49 pm
content: Lots of model engineers in the UK...Know one? They have lathes, and could easily make you two pieces to help reshape the BNC. A half moon piece for squeezing the inside of the connector, and for the outside maybe a square with the proper hole drilled and then cut in half. Regular pliers might not give enough force to reshape it, but the wonderful compound pivoting Knipex Plierswrench could do it. I would probably replace the connector, as a reshaped connector is going to give less than perfect fit and might bind.

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2023, 07:43:54 pm
content: I have had to do that in the past. I looked through my screwdrivers and found a slotted one that is exactly the same I/D as a female BNC. Insert the screwdriver blade in the unbent area, 180 degrees from the bent area and slowly rotate the blade with some force once you get to the bend. It should push it back out without cracking the metal. This technique has worked for me numerous times.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2023, 08:44:40 pm
content: A piece of square stock [Edit: maybe brass, in the hope of saving the plating], filed to size, with slightly rounded corners would probably be a more controlled alternative to finding exactly the right width screwdriver. I would be a bit concerned about the effect of the turning torque on the connector mounting, front panel, and PCB connection though.

author: wasedadoc
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 03, 2023, 08:56:50 pm
content: Quote from: Paceguy on January 03, 2023, 07:43:54 pmA slotted screwdriver rotated through 180 degrees is effectively back where it started. Perhaps you meant 90 degrees.Still not a method I would recommend in this case.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2023, 03:48:54 am
content: this is why challanger might have crashed. (poor cylinder dimensions + gasket).

author: Paceguy
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2023, 07:31:30 pm
content: Quote from: wasedadoc on January 03, 2023, 08:56:50 pm

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2023, 07:41:10 pm
content: Quote from: coppercone2 on January 04, 2023, 03:48:54 amRubber O rings lost flexibility / compliance due to below limit launch temperature, nothing to do with the dimensioning. Thouroughly investigated and famously demonstrated  Richard Feynman during the enquiry.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 04, 2023, 09:28:47 pm
content: I read out of round booster segments might have contributed to the failure (I think it was normally three stage system of perfect metal seal, putty and also the o-ring).There is a video on youtube that talked about objects of constant width, how they measure cylinders in the rocket to verify concentrically, and that the measurement method might have passed an object that was warped.https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=NFSAlhdpJ60&feature=emb_logoThe BNC spring fingers have a forgiving tolerance, but still, its not a car body.

author: David Hess
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2023, 06:34:13 pm
content: The appendix of Feynman's report discussed the out-of-round problem.The booster sections return out-of-round, and NASA said that was because of their impact with the ocean, which was a lie to divert blame. Just before release, the hold-down bolts in the booster skirts apply an enormous amount of torque to the booster up to where the boosters attach to the hydrogen tank because the main engine thrust is off center. You can see the entire shuttle lean over before release and then bounce back. This twists the lower booster sections, "coincidentally" where the Challenger failure was.During refurbishment, there was a specification for how much pressure could be applied to bend a booster section back into round, and if this had to be exceeded, then that section was not suppose to be reused. After NASA extended the launch release timing, the applied torque was much higher and beyond the design specifications, and booster sections were returning so out of round that the hydraulic press could not apply enough pressure, even beyond the design specification, to straighten them. So the refurbishment crew stuck a mechanical jack in parallel to apply even more pressure, even though they were already beyond the design specifications, which somehow got "lost".I think NASA lied to divert attention from their change in the launch timing which was bending the booster sections way out of specification.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2023, 08:47:14 pm
content: Wow typical, don't use the 'cheater bar' method unless you are throwing it out afterwards. I wonder how much 'figuring' went into determining the over stressed assembly was still good. they take this thing to the local body shop?

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: January 06, 2023, 08:55:33 pm
content: Thanks guys, I stand corrected.