hybridfree/eevblog-posts huggingface dataset:
Universal USB battery charging clip - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Connecteur
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 18, 2019, 04:34:52 pm
content: I picked up one of these a few years back, because it looked like a very clever and useful gadget:I have used it several times over the years, and I find it works flawlessly every time. I was sad to learn that this product has been discontinued and I haven't found anything equivalent. Old stock can still be purchased online, but at a price I consider excessive.It does require a tiny bit of patience to line up the contacts properly, but I suppose that was too much tinkering for most people, which is probably why it disappeared off the market.I'm hoping that someone has heard of another source for this type of product at a reasonable price.Thanks.

author: sn4k3
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 19, 2019, 07:59:28 pm
content: Clone:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32851077480.htmlAlternative:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32956067528.html&https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32823475145.html
Knockoff/clone Quick 861DW on ebay - worth buying? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: pickleit
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 12, 2019, 10:00:56 pm
content: HiI just found this on ebay:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202755101878?ul_noapp=trueThe title of the ebay listing is:Quick Soldering 861DW 1,000W Digital Rework Station Free Shipping 220V 120L/minThe specs are stated as:Input Voltage: 220V ±10%Power: 1000W(Max.)Plug Type: UK PlugTemperature Range: 100℃~500℃Temperature Stability: ±1℃(Static)Display: LCD DisplayAirflow Adjustment: 1-120 Adjustable LevelMaximum Airflow: 120L/minNoise: < 45dBSize: Approx. 23.5 x 19 x 12.5cm / 9.2 x 7.4 x 4.9inchWeight: 3688gAND the "Package List:" contains:1 x Soldering Station3 x Nozzles1 x Grounding Line1 x WrenchThe question is:Has anyone bought one? if yes, how good is it?Would any one be tempted to buy one?I would love to buy a proper Quick 861DW, but the cost is just a bit too high for me at the moment, and can't find any second hand ones for sale either.My thoughts:Having read:https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hulko-861d-quick-861dw-clone/This one may be a better one to buy if you can't afford a genuine Quick 861DW:https://www.banggood.com/BST-863-1200W-220V110V-Intelligent-LCD-Touch-Screen-Heat-Air-SMD-Rework-Station-p-1431173.html?p=YO02213926337201603A&custlinkid=355542&ID=523699&cur_warehouse=CNReview:
telescope mount for lathe grinder? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 10, 2019, 09:17:34 pm
content: I have a old telescope mount that can be moved around fairly precisely (I use it for mounting antennas). It is beefy and I don't see why you can't put a dremel flex shaft on it. It has a electronic controller which I can program coordinates to.If it was dampened by something heavy, can the vibrations damage the mechanical parts?Not with a burr, but just a engraver tool (like a diamond point or stone).The idea would be to clamp it to a drill press table and spin the part in the chuck then try to make some shapes with it.Like, can you have a mechanical system that does heavy loads well but does not like vibrations?I could give the z-axis a bit of travel with air pistons and adjustable valves (push pull ratio), its weird but I have the parts for some reason, it should be strong enough to move the entire base around about 1 inchAlso, can a MEMS microphone array, 3 of them, on x,y,z axis , with the hole patched up or perhaps glued to metal downwards act as vibration indicators (I have a bunch of these).this could be really interesting if you put a motor to extend the reach of the device and bolted it under or above something on a stand so it can grind out a geometry on a big part. Like a magnetic drill, but it would be a magnetic CNC grinder thing. I wonder if it could make trumpet shapes in large objects. If it was a bit smaller you could attach it to a magnetic drill and it would be totally battery powered.
milling machine motor beat noise dependant on RPM - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 11, 2019, 01:45:42 am
content: The Proxxon mill has a DC motor in it, powered by some kind of very simple circuit adjustable with a potentiometer.With the new stiffening I have been studying its noise closely, and I noticed that a bit under 6K rpm it makes this clack clack clack noise that roughly occurs once per second.I also noticed if you really finely adjust it, its possible to make it sound kind of like a shitty refrigerator compressor (like this unpleasant drone).Is this dependent on the mechanical properties of the gearbox or does it have something to do with line frequency?I have been thinking about getting a good adjustable HV supply to play with it.I am curious because I have 60Hz power, and I wonder if its something to do with line frequency and motor RPM.it sounds like its saying 'trump... trump... trummmpp'(imagine the werewolf robot from the movie death machine robotic arm clanging 'trump trump trump' ). Scary. I need to dampen something before the secret service arrests my milling machine.I will try a 100V 1A linear supply to see if it shuts the fuck up.if I put the DC control on it, I can also modify it to have a powerful blower on the top with a filter maybe.
JBC CD-2SQE soldering station - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Jane
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 15, 2019, 08:07:42 pm
content: Does anyone have any experience with JBC CD-2SQE soldering station?https://www.jbctools.com/cd-sq-precision-soldering-station-product-1580.htmlOr similar?

author: lilstevie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2019, 07:14:40 am
content: I have the CD-2BE and I love it.

author: Jane
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2019, 07:27:08 am
content: Thanks for the reply.And is it useful for micro soldering such as cell phones reparing?Or what do you use it for? What soldering cartridges do you use?Thanks for your answer

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 30, 2019, 08:45:58 am
content: Also have 1 or 2, plus two different tweezer handles which are great for "picking" of parts in 1 go.

author: mrjoda
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 30, 2019, 01:01:25 pm
content: i have my own CD-B and i love it.Also, we have in company labs JBC equipment (almost every tool) and it is the best.

author: lilstevie
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: September 01, 2019, 03:52:54 am
content: I have the C245-731 0.6 x 0.3 chisel and the C245-903 conical tip.I don't use the conical very much as its not very good for SMD, but the chisel works well down to about 0402 sized components. I have been meaning to get a different cartridge for smaller components but I haven't had time.My main use for it is rework on prototypes, as well as the final assembly touches before sending them to the software development team (a couple of large through hole components)
Lead or lead-free soldering iron tips for all around soldering? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2019, 06:03:18 pm
content: Is there any real concern for choosing lead vs. lead-free tips for all around soldering? I have read that lead-free tips are either pre-tinned with lead-free solder or are made with different coatings for lead-free soldering, depending on the manufacturer. Are there any problems with using lead-free tips with lead solder? I have mostly worked with lead solder in the past because lead-free was just a pain to get good joints, including on devices that were manufactured using lead-free solder. It is likely that my issues with lead-free soldering were due to not meeting requirements for lead-free soldering, including using crappo lead-free solder from radio shack. But my question here is more focused around tip selection for use in both lead and lead-free soldering.

author: Nusa
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: September 07, 2019, 08:33:42 pm
content: These days, pretty much all tips start out lead-free until you put lead on them. If you have projects that need to be certifiably lead-free, then only use tips (or entire irons, if you hate swapping) that have never touched lead. Otherwise, the tip is not going to be a problem...normal wiping and cleaning will be sufficient when you switch solders and temperature settings.

author: scatterandfocus
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: September 08, 2019, 02:05:51 pm
content: I asked about lead and lead-free solder tips because some manufacturers describe lead-free solder tips as having a different plating than tips for traditional lead soldering, or as being rated for higher temperature. Just a few examples:QuoteQuoteQuoteIt all seems pretty vague, and it isn't something that I have really thought about before.Also of note in that Kester pdf is the effects of the composition of lead-free solders:Quote

author: GreyWoolfe
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: September 11, 2019, 12:13:58 am
content: Almost all the soldering I do is leaded. For the very little lead free I do, I keep 1 specific tip for my Metcal in its package instead of in the stand so I won't cross contaminate it with lead. I have good leaded solder and good lead free solder. Good equipment also helps.
expectation vs reality - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2019, 07:28:02 am
content: So I have a 0.0005'' / div dial indicator on my surface plate. I got the old grinder related tools I restored. Expecting gears and glass shards to come flying out of the indicator as the measurement is made. Instead it does not really move the dial at all.(lightly lapped but still)guess rust is not that big of a deal, I was sure all this stuff was completely SHOT after being stored for 30+ years. I even used the V-blocks for WELDING before I knew their value. I thought they would be distorted permanently from the heat (not like they were in the line of torch flame but stuff was attached to them)

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2019, 06:27:08 am
content: Rust doesn't warp steel, nor cause high spots - after it's been removed at least. Heat won't move anything permanently usually either unless there's a lot of local heat applied so that there's a large temperature differential in a short distance (for instance, welding a bead on cold steel). When that happens, the steel local to the high heat expands so far relative to the cooler steel that the yield point is exceeeded and et voila, permanent warpage. Evenly applied heat makes little difference.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2019, 08:17:24 am
content: i think my surface plate needs a new home because its trying to kill me when I get water at night

author: TimFox
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2019, 01:13:50 pm
content: After I installed a (cheap) surface plate in my garage workshop, I went to a party at the University, where I was introduced to a geologist. I told him, "I don't know much about geology, but I have a nice piece of granite in my garage." To which, he replied, "Is it gneiss or is it granite?"
Question about Auto-focus microscope cameras - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: goldfinger_
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 28, 2019, 06:55:54 pm
content: Does anyone here have a Auto-focus microscope camera ?Recorded this up close, I'm told there is some noise from the motor but this sounds gritty to me.Just got this and have no reference to know if this is a normal healthy sound for this type of camera or is something I need to get the vendor to resolve ?

author: Againgly
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 07, 2019, 09:58:52 am
content: I think it’s worth asking the vendor. Since it is better to know the expert opinion in order to avoid problems with operation in the future. In addition, the vendor will help to quickly find out this issue.
JBC AD4300 Soldering Station: I really need pinouts for C210 and C245 stands! - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Chernig0v
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 01, 2019, 09:38:20 pm
content: There is a soldering station JBC AD4300 and 2 handles for the C210 and C245 tips.Without AD8210 and AD8245 it is impossible to connect these knobs to the unit.Need a pinout of these stands!PS: on the board is difficult to determine the purpose of the wires.I would be very grateful for the help!

author: Chernig0v
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: August 04, 2019, 07:09:15 am
content: http://www.wkirby.co.uk/Images/IMG_0654.JPGThe pinout on this picture does not match my soldering station = (
Offering: Manual for old Turbomolecular pump: Varian V200A - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Basement ScienceE
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 31, 2019, 11:40:49 am
content: Some time ago, I bought an old, used Varian V200A Turbomolecular pump. Unfortunately, the manual for it was not available anywhere on the internet so far.Eventually I managed to get the manual for it though, so I would like to share it.I figured I would upload it here for now. If anyone has a better idea where I could share it, let me know.Turbopumps can go for a lot of money even on the used market, so maybe this can help someone make a decision.
Looking for budget wire tracer/toner - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: tknx
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2019, 03:15:26 am
content: Need something cheap to find some missing speaker and ethernet wires after the insulation folks lost them in the walls. The perfect device would be able to find them as well as do live circuits and inductive testing and, well everyting possible.Was eyeing the Mastech Ms6818 ibut wondering what everyone recommends? The $1000 Amprobe and Fluke stuff is just too pricey for my limited needs. I want something that works well, but I am pretty careful with my stuff, so I don't need it to be hardened against nuclear attack or ladder drops.

author: blacksheeplogic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2019, 05:13:23 am
content: Quote from: tknx on July 17, 2019, 03:15:26 amA Triplett 3388 Fox and Hound HotWire possibly although I found the performance less than great. I have an Ideal 61-957 SureTrace but that's likely outside of what you want to spend.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 17, 2019, 05:40:11 am
content: Don't know if you have it there, but after evaluating a few ages ago, I settled on a Value WT22B wire tracker. A few friends in vehicle refits / rewires have also bought them, based on trying them out, and they are very happy with it. Only cost oz$110. So far, it hasn't failed to do it's job. For the price, worth looking at?

author: blacksheeplogic
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2019, 05:50:29 am
content: Quote from: digsys on July 17, 2019, 05:40:11 amI'm not sure why but the OP wanted to do Live Wire tracing.

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 17, 2019, 05:58:23 am
content: Quote from: tknxQuote from: blacksheeplogicok missed that. Now it gets a sheetload harder :-)

author: tknx
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 28, 2019, 04:02:09 am
content: OK - how about just an inexpensive inductive wire tracer? Something that doesn't need a tone generator?
Sennheiser audio main board - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: najrao
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 29, 2019, 05:10:20 am
content: I copped this high power audio amp board, and am stuck with no data whatsoever. I am hoping someone who reads this will put me wise.It has two ST TDA7293 100W rms chips, a >250W SMPS, and some 10 quad op amps and several other smd chips. So far, I can only identify the mains input and speakers jack. There is anorange14 pin connector socket which may be hiding the inputs and other controls like muting, standby, etc. Not in the picture (on the back of the board) is another 3 pin jack, which might prove to be the (two) inputs.Tracing is virtually impossible, it is a multilayer board.The ST amp datasheet says it is good for +/- 50V and will deliver 100W into 4-8R. It is an advanced Class AB (not D) amp, with a host of features.The SMPS uses an Infineon control chip TDA16846-2, with far more features than the usual 3842.A difficult-to-read legend says "Sennheiser 531629-11A. KH120 main board". Google does not bring up anything, not even by reverse picture search.I hesitate to power it up and do any sweet spot probing because my speakers are not rated enough, but I will eventually get going along this way if no better turns up.Thank you for reading. Any link to other audiophile forum would also help.

author: GLouie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2019, 01:27:30 am
content: You would appear to have a board for a Neumann KH120 powered studio monitor speaker (Sennheiser owns Neumann). They don't seem to provide a schematic, but all public information about the speaker (amp specs, block diagram), is on the Neumann website.Basically, it is a board with 2 amplifiers for woofer + tweeter, plus switches to choose equalization and some other options. It must be optimized for their finished speaker system.

author: najrao
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 30, 2019, 12:37:45 pm
content: Indeed, it is a Neumann kh120a board. While no schematics are forthcoming, my example was in pristine condition in a fitting box wrapped in foam: seems to be new and unused. It may not need any repair.I have to make up a 1K/W heatsink to fit. And go get some really good 50W woofer and tweeter. Or drive my good old Goodmans or Sony speakers - both are just about 20W.I powered it up with dim bulb, and test points show +&- 35.0V, as also +&- 15V. So far so good. Given the Vcc, I should think 8R speaker would be good.Thank you again for pointing me in the right direction.
Genius G540 programmer - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2015, 05:23:44 pm
content: HiAnyone manage to get the drivers running on Windows 10 ? x64 ?I can't get them to install from Device Manager and get a complaint about the INF files (which don't look too modern) being missing when I run the setup program.I bought this to program Lattice 22V10D GALs. I chose this specific vendor on eBay as they list the device in their listing.Thanks

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2015, 06:02:55 pm
content: I haven't tried it on Windows 10, but you could look at the Stager site and see if the software there is newer/different than what you got from the eBay seller:http://www.stg51.com/english/downloadshow.asp?id=6P.S. I'm sorry I bought this model, it has lots of holes in the device list, and it's already been orphaned.

author: netdudeuk
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2015, 06:24:55 pm
content: Thanks.That didn't work.The software looks far worse than my TL866 stuff.Anyone else have any ideas please ?

author: edavid
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: November 20, 2015, 07:14:18 pm
content: Quote from: netdudeuk on November 20, 2015, 06:24:55 pmWindows XP virtual machine? Return it?

author: photonverse
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: January 11, 2018, 05:11:30 pm
content: Hi all,When I tried to install G540 device driver on Microsoft Windows 10, I encountered following error:QuoteAfter following instruction to disable the driver signing verification from following link (http://windowsreport.com/driver-signature-enforcement-windows-10/), with option 1 GUI, I was able to install the driver, then G540 programmer worked fine on Windows 10.Hope this info helps for the folks who purchased a G540 programmer and try to run on Windows 10.

author: chalermsak
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 06:01:54 am
content: Genius G540 USB Programmer Driver Win10
Microscope boom stands question - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: dicky96
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2019, 01:17:44 pm
content: Hi guysWhat is the advantage of single boom vs double boom microscope stands?For example thishttps://www.ebay.es/itm/3-5X-90X-Simul-focal-Trinocular-Zoom-Stereo-Microscope-Long-Arm-Boom-Stand-K/312329061325?hash=item48b84343cd:g:2YkAAOSwkDtb88CNvs thishttps://www.ebay.es/itm/3-5X-90X-Simul-focal-Trinocular-Zoom-Stereo-Microscope-Double-Arm-Boom-Stand/142613965317?hash=item2134746a05:g:WBEAAOSwIJlaJQV8same microscope, different stand - and about 140 euro difference in price inc postageI don't mind the extra cost - as long as I am gaining something worth the extraRichard

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2019, 04:39:12 pm
content: A good, twin boom stand lets you freely rotate the microscope around the vertical post, and slide the microscope toward the post and away from it.A single boom stand, just lets you quickly rotate. To move the scope in or out, you have to unclamp the microscope, move it, get it vertical again and then re-clamp it.A twin boom is considerably more pleasant.

author: dicky96
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2019, 05:01:41 pm
content: Yes it sounds like it!And worth the extra money it would seemThanks mate

author: jfiresto
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2019, 06:49:40 pm
content: Quote from: dicky96 on July 17, 2019, 05:01:41 pmYou are welcome. A double arm boom is very nice if you need to examine a large object over x and y (or in practice, r and theta). It is also lets you quickly move the microscope out of the way when you need space at the front of the workbench, or space over what you were just looking at.

author: SteveyG
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: August 05, 2019, 10:18:12 am
content: Quote from: dicky96 on July 17, 2019, 05:01:41 pmIt's worth the extra, but be warned that the double arm boom stands can take up a lot of bench space.I did a couple of videos recently on microscopes if you're still looking at options.
Hi current USB extension cables ? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Flump
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 28, 2019, 11:47:09 pm
content: Can anyone recommend me a USB extension cable that can handle data and supply 5V @ 2A (atleast) with very little voltage drop ?It's mostly for charging phones & tablets1M, 2M & 3M lengths would be nice.Thanks

author: mariush
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2019, 12:23:04 am
content: Digikey has a whole category for USB cables here:https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cable-assemblies/usb-cables/455You can filter by AWG gauge ... regular wires are AWG24 ... there's cables with AWG20 or even AWG18 wires for power and thinner wires for data.Here's an example:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tripp-lite/U024-06N-PM/TL778-ND/4439394Here's with microUSB at the end :https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tripp-lite/UR05C-003-RB/TL805-ND/5359413And type-c :https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tripp-lite/U038-006/TL785-ND/5247429Farnell probably has a similar category, or some filter options... or at the very least you may be able to copy the part number from Digikey and enter it on Farnell's website.

author: NiHaoMike
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 29, 2019, 02:56:40 am
content: Look on Amazon for reputable brands like Anker.

author: HwAoRrDk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2019, 07:49:25 pm
content: These guys do pretty decent quality USB cables with 22AWG power wiring. Reasonably priced too.https://www.juicebitz.co.uk/all-cables/usb/extensionAlso available through their eBay store.

author: Flump
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 10, 2019, 08:42:38 pm
content: Thanks everyoneNiHaoMikeI have a few Anker cables and 2 chargers but wanted something which could handle a bit more current.mariushI looked on Farnell's website but couldn't get the filters right to find the cable I wantedbut i'm sure they have themHwAoRrDkThanks, I ended up buying one of juicebits and it seems to be pretty good so far.

author: Lord of nothing
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2019, 10:03:15 am
content: I use Delock Stufff for many thinks and the work very good.There Premium Cable look good.
Fellowes Electric Binding Machine - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jabz
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 22, 2019, 03:26:31 am
content: Hi I have a Fellowes Quasar E500 electric binding machine.I have an issue where on the left side of the paper, the 3rd/4th holes don't punch all the way through, and also on the right side side the 18/19 holes also don't punch through fully.I have been told the problem is likely to be "I would assume the punch matrix is clogged which is repairable."Does anyone have any experience with these, and is possible to DIY the repair?

author: CatalinaWOW
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 22, 2019, 06:32:00 am
content: You may want to try your question on other more mechanically oriented forums. This one is heavily electronics oriented.While I don't have experience on your particular model, I have worked on similar equipment as a DIYer. I would say the ability for you to repair this will depend heavily on your skills. If you have a reasonable set of small tools and have worked on automobile engines and/or kitchen appliances you can probably pull this repair off. Be guided by your past experience. If you have taken a lot of things apart and put them back together you will be fine. If you have taken a lot of things apart, but not gotten them all back together be more cautious. If you have only watched YouTube videos be very cautious.First, remember safety. Take power off of the machine. Then remove covers to get to the actual punch mechanism. You should be able to see both the punches and the punch plate. Make sure you look over the mechanism and understand any spring preloads which could be released when your fingers are in an unfortunate position. You can take a small probe and make sure that all of the holes in the punch plate are clear, paying particular attention to the problem holes. I have used a small drill bit to help clear these holes, just be sure not to ding or damage the holes themselves. If wedged in paper is the problem it will be very firmly wedged to resist a force capable of punching through several dozen sheets of paper. You will probably not be able to just force it on through, but will have to worm a few pieces at a time out. Dental picks can also be useful. Be sure to check the waste chute and/or bin which collects the punchings. The holes may have jammed because the chutes or bin were clogged or full.While you are inside the machine you probably should check for dirt and debris in the punch side of the mechanism which might reduce punching force and if you aren't paying for maintenance on this machine check for obvious lubrication points and make sure that they are appropriately lubed.A lot will depend on whether this machine is mission critical for you job or business. If it is, think about whether your time is better spent figuring out how to get a pro in to work on it.Best of luck and have fun if you decide to tackle this.
Teledyne Post drafting kit---replacing deteriorated foam? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: 0culus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 05, 2019, 10:27:40 pm
content: I have an old Teledyne Post drafting kit...the tools are in very nice shape. Unfortunately the same cannot be said for the red foam in the case. It's disintegrating. I'm thinking some kind of modern foam that can be carefully cut with an x-acto to provide fit for the instruments would make a good replacement.Any recommendations?Thanks!

author: GLouie
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2019, 01:49:06 am
content: I can't speak with any authority, but would also be curious. Foam life should be a concern for anyone thinking ahead more than a decade. We are talking about a kit of some compasses and dividers?I've seen plenty of old foam either turn to dust or goo, or gooey dust. I think this is usually some form of polyurethane. A different foam I have seen seems to hold up better, at least for a few decades I've seen it - I think it's polyethylene foam, and is much stiffer. I've cobbled together many replacement foam cases using scrap foam and a serrated kitchen knife. Some recommend using an electric carving knife.For a drafting kit, I think I would build up some indentations from polyethylene foam into the original case and cover with a piece of cloth like microfiber, leaving indents for the tools. Perhaps holding everything down with hot glue into the original case. If the foam rots later, the cloth should keep the tools clean, and would hide cobbled up foam.For ideas, there is a USA company called Mycasebuilder, which I have not used but have friends that like them. They sell gear cases similar to Pelican with custom foam cutouts done with an online CAD to your specs, and will cut just the foam with no case. You likely are not looking for the expense of such a service, nor do I know if they could even do your project, but it is interesting and they do explain a bit about foam options in their FAQ. They do not address long term foam life, though.

author: 0culus
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2019, 04:38:09 am
content: Thanks for the reply; yes it is a kit of dividers and compasses. I'll look into those options.For now, I've removed all the tools from the case to avoid further metal damage. I'm not positive but I think the tools are plated (perhaps chrome; the unmarred surfaces are very shiny and smooth), and the foam material caused a reaction with the surface and left dull pits. No rust or anything though.

author: Bud
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: August 07, 2019, 07:00:05 am
content: You can buy foam material which is kind of sliced with cubes as small as 0.5x0.5"", so you first make it fit your case then remove slices to make cavities for your tools.
20277 Digital timer teardown and schematic - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: ondras12345
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 19, 2019, 06:41:40 pm
content: I needed to fix this timer, so I reverse engineered the circuit (only the main PCB as the other only has a crystal, LED, chip-on-board and a couple of passives). I'm posting this for anyone else who tries to repair it.I couldn't find any info on the internet, and the manual (CZ and SK only) says justMODEL 20277.I didn't fix it, the chip-on-board seems to be dead. I replaced the zener (before taking these pictures) and the batterry, but it didn't help. All voltages seem to be OK, but the display remains blank.
surface measurement by other means? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2019, 07:25:19 am
content: I doubt its possible to a useful extent, but imagine this:you want to measure a flat surface property (how this comes out I don't know).you aim a precision made blower at it (made like a swiss watch) and measure the pressure change as you sweep across the surface. I don't know what the most stable air blower is, maybe peizo?assuming you had the best air flow movement indicator (like a really amplified hot wire aneometer), or perhaps several around the nozzle (which is very close to the surface) to see if air flow is different in any particular direction.Is this feasible at all?

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 17, 2019, 07:52:17 am
content: It is done every day. Use google to search for "air gaging" or "air gaging flatness"
Ryobi Battery Assistance - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: Smack2k
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: June 25, 2019, 10:16:20 am
content: Hello,New to this forum....fan of the EEVblog for a few years now....I have a couple 18V Ryobi Lithium Batteries as well as a couple Ryobi batter chargers....Having an issue where one charger will not charge the batteries at all, just blinks red. The other charger seems to indicate the batteries are charged, but I am only getting about 15 min of use time out of the batteries before they die and need placed on the charger again. Neither of the batteries is very old, so I am not sure what is going on with them...Looking for some assistance on what I could do to get the batteries working properly and, if possible, have both of my chargers do their jobs and charge!!!

author: tunk
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2019, 01:13:51 pm
content: I suggest that you open the batteries and check the voltages of the five cells.If they differ significantly, it may explain your 15 minutes.If you have a li-ion charger you could try to charge the individual lower voltage cells.

author: sokoloff
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2019, 01:50:56 pm
content: You can repeatedly plug and unplug the battery that is showing red on the charger until it goes green (or blinking or whatever the charging indication is). That will get a flat battery back charging, but the bad news is that the batteries are probably just weak/dying. They don’t like to be left sitting flat.

author: BurningTantalum
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 14, 2019, 10:02:34 am
content: Make sure that the Ryobi chargers are not intended for Ni-Cad batteries- I believe the 'ONE+' Li-ion packs have the same connector format as the old Ni-Cad packs. My friend wrecked two ONE+ packs by doing this.BT
Quick 861DW (PJLSW clone) modification for more bench realestate - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: X10an
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 08, 2019, 08:52:34 pm
content: Hello all.Today I just chime in to show some pictures of my modified 861DW. The fact that mine is a clone of some sort make this not directly apliccable to the original. It is some differences, the EMI filter and the three phase motor controller is missing, and some component differs from the original, but they work in much of the same way with some of the same components. Well, the clone-discussion is not the topic of this post.My problem with the 861DW was the enormous space it occupied on my bench. The realestatevalue is high on my bench, and when i opened up the 861DW it was full of unused air.The modification was pretty straight forward. I used only a couple of cablestrips and one 1/2" 90 degree hosebend for the air. I am very satisfied with this modification and it only took a couple of hours to complete!

author: Daruosha
author_rank: Regular Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2019, 06:09:46 am
content: The idea was quite neat. In fact the original 861DW has wasted space too (in anticipation for bigger blower fan in higher end models). I'm sure they could make it a lot smaller like Hakoo FR810 or similar devices.

author: X10an
author_rank: Contributor
timestamp: July 09, 2019, 10:13:27 am
content: I forgot to add this info, but the the result is excactly 10 centimeters (ca 4") shorter than what I started with. Wich equals to a total of 190 cm2 (or 30 square inch for the imperials).
PCB Ruler out of whack? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 20, 2019, 12:14:37 am
content: Someone on twitter posted this.This AvE? PCB ruler seems way out of whack.It's not the EEVblog uRuler at fault.

author: EEVblog
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: June 20, 2019, 12:49:14 am
content: Ok, turns out it was extreme parralax error in the previous photo due to the thickness of the AvE ruler

author: ebastler
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2019, 05:07:46 pm
content: Quote from: EEVblog on June 20, 2019, 12:49:14 amIt can't bethatthick. But it does look like it's not lying flat on the white background in the first picture. It is either bent, or the Twitter poster intentionally lifted one end of the ruler off the table to take that photo, to take people for a ride.
Review of $15 High Voltage DC-DC PSU Module - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: jaxbird
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2019, 08:38:32 pm
content: Detailed review of a $15 DC-DC High Voltage power supply module designed for use with tubes:

author: jaxbird
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2019, 11:30:53 am
content: Here is a review of another high voltage step up module, promising 70W peak and 40W continuous output:

author: jaxbird
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 06, 2019, 12:27:15 pm
content: If anyone got a recommendation on a module that will actually deliver as promised, then I'd really like to have a look at it.Thanks
brass residue on (hardened?) steel after cleaning good? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2019, 08:17:57 pm
content: So I have been cleaning up some little bits for the small mill and I noticed if you do the soak in the new 'motorcycle freindly' rust remover and use a brass dremel brush on it afterwards, you get a brass residue on the steel.I actually thought I was cleaning nickle plated brass blocks, till I got a bit of sand paper and revealed shiney steel underneath. (ran out of steel brushes)Anyway, I think this brass 'plating' looks kind of cool, but does it hurt the tool in any way? Will it increase corrosion?Since these are 'step blocks' used for milling vise, can it possibly increase their grip if they have a thin layer of soft brass on top?

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 30, 2019, 08:35:59 pm
content: I've seen this effect used intentionally to make metal look "gold". I doubt it will change anything other than visual appearance. The layer is way too thin.

author: Gyro
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2019, 09:56:14 am
content: I suppose it might be possible that the softer brass could act as a low quality dry film lubricant by filling microscopic irregularities in the steel surface.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2019, 07:10:20 pm
content: how does it get into the metal? Is it some kind of molecular reaction or is it just being cut off the brush by the uneveness of the steel surface and embedding into it like a paste?

author: ataradov
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2019, 07:19:29 pm
content: I'm not sure about the rust remover case, since most of the time this is used with heated steel. And in that case it is a mechanical transfer. Sort of like brazing of a very fine layer of bronze.

author: T3sl4co1l
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 03, 2019, 07:47:24 pm
content: Mechanical transfer, cold welding, probably not diffusion bonding. Superficial. Maybe just stuck into the pores and it wears off much more easily than a melted-in surface would. Maybe more instantaneous heat is involved than it seems, on account of the high velocity.Corrosion is probably slightly accelerated on account of the higher galvanic potentials. At first the zinc content would provide galvanic protection, then as it depletes (exposing copper (dezincification) or iron), nearby iron would be corroded. Corrosion requires an electrolyte, usually a microscopic amount of salt and ambient moisture.Tim
Any salvage worth parts or component from Pentium PC apart from PSU? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: vinlove
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 02:08:50 pm
content: I am going to take out old PC PSU from this old Pentium PC tower. It is heavy, and still has everything in it, mother board, CD ROM, floppy drive, GC, USB boards, HD, Pentium processor.Are there anything salvage worth parts in there, or better to dispose in recycle place?

author: vinlove
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 03:17:16 pm
content: Apologies for posting in wrong forum. If moderator could kindly move this post to the right forum ... I do appreciate your help. Thank you.

author: Kleinstein
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 26, 2019, 03:29:41 pm
content: The CPU heat sink is a candidate worth salvaging. For the rest it depends on what one might use and how easy it is to get new parts. The CD-tray and the floppy head positioning (usually a stepper motor) can be fun mechanical actuators.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2019, 01:34:30 am
content: that can be a work horse for controlling a remote platform over network with less effort

author: digsys
author_rank: Unknown
timestamp: July 27, 2019, 01:41:45 am
content: Keep the memory - DDR2? PC400? Someone always wants old memory, especially if it is 512MB-1GB, If less, forget it :-) , HDD, if 250GB or larger -handy as a backup unit.Front panels switches / leds / USB cables. Always handy when testing M/Boards. That's all I keep now. And P/S, as you mentioned

author: CJay
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2019, 07:41:33 am
content: Depends which Pentium it is, some of them can be quite valuable, the Pentium Pro for instance has a lot of gold in it and is sought after by gold refiners, the motherboards often have high current MOSFETs and some nice toroid cores, some have separate VRMs for the core voltages which are capable of quite surprisingly high current outputs, it really depends what sort of level of 'salvage' you mean though.

author: vinlove
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2019, 11:34:49 am
content: Great info. Thanks.Memory sticks have been taken out a few year ago, and sold on eBay. Rest seem all there. I took them apart yesterday, and put all the parts in the shed draws.Going to convert the PSU to bench PSU and battery charger. Got another 2x fans. 2x HDs, 2x CDROM drives, 1x floopy drive, GPU, USB ports, and of course the Motherboard. Not sure what Pentium processor it is, because it had been that long time ago this PC had been run.

author: vinlove
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: July 27, 2019, 11:42:23 am
content: And the PC Case, massive metal box. I ripped out all the plastic shell covers, just leaving the metal box. Looks like it will make a good wood stove.
Xytronic LF-2000(U) soldering station : alternative iron handle - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: broleke
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: April 22, 2019, 01:37:44 pm
content: Hi there,I bought 2 years ago a Xytronic LF-2000(U) soldering station (not the LF-2000). It is very well built and it has been working great so far and helped me repairing different things over those years.My only concern is about the iron handle (505V), using bits similar (in design, not in dimensions) to the hakko T12 bits and containing AFAIK the heating element.They are pretty expensive and somehow fragile.I would like to use a standard handle with standard bits : I tried to fit a Xytronic 307K to my soldering station (100W, 32V, 7-pin) but the handle would not be recognized (heat sensor not found). I guess that the pinout used on the soldering station may not match this solder iron : I dismantle the station and saw that only 4 pin were connected out of the 7.My question would be pretty simple (at least to ask). How would I fit another handle to my soldering station ? Has it already been done here ?I tried to contact Xytronic and asked for help, but I must say that there answer was more than disappointing (no schematic, no help, no explanation, etc.).Thanks for your help,

author: broleke
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 03, 2019, 07:28:34 pm
content: Hi, any experience with those soldering station ?
flux for aluminum gas welding? - Page 1
Forum section: electronics / general

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 22, 2019, 08:53:07 pm
content: What kind of flux should be used for aluminum gas welding?I used to use BRAZING aluminum flux for gas welding aluminum but I left the container open and it got hydroscopic and some bugs died in it after the winter and I tossed it on the grounds of being gross and its saturday and I got some stuff I wanted to put together and I am wondering if the black or white silver brazing fluxes can be used? (shops closed and I can get ALOT done this weekand since I am in the mood and the weather is not atrocious).They seem to be mostly flouride based. I have read online that a unspecified 'harris high temp' can be used, and searching that results in the black high silver % flux as the first hit.I have also read someone say you don't use flux for aluminum welding, and some other weird welding fluxes.This is just 1/8th inch aluminum used for a frame that can be made out of balsa wood. Not even sure if the brazing stuff I was using is appropriate. I swear the dude in the welding store told me I can use the black silver flux for gas welding the aluminum.Do you need lithium chloride in the mix?

author: eKretz
author_rank: Frequent Contributor
timestamp: June 25, 2019, 12:57:58 pm
content: I think for something that won't endanger anyone if it breaks you can use whatever will clean the oxides. A ballpark formulation can be obtained by checking for some SDS info from various brands. I've used one from Superior Flux, their MSDS lists the following:Potassium Chloride 30%-55%Sodium Chloride 30%-55%Lithium Fluoride 7%-15%The danger in using a brazing flux rather than a flux specifically for O/F welding is that it could contain something that might lead to cracking of the joint.

author: coppercone2
author_rank: Super Contributor
timestamp: June 26, 2019, 01:48:43 am
content: Damn other then the lithium you can use salt substitute to save money.

author: Tracer-D
author_rank: Newbie
timestamp: July 03, 2019, 02:50:07 pm
content: Hi guys, to talk about flux using for gas welding, for me, it consists of:50% KCl,14% LiCl,8% NaF,28% NaClThe dry ingredients must be diluted with distilled water. A layer of pasty flux is applied to the metal to be welded and the filler wire or rod. You should understand the corrosive effect of this flux because it consists of compounds of reactive metals. Therefore, it is necessary to thoroughly wash the welds after welding with a 2% solution of nitric acid HNO3, and then wash off the acid with warm water and wash it again with cold water at the end. Be careful and your work will look great from any angle.Also, one of my friends start making a blog about welding with my little help and some other people, you couldvisit their websiteand check out what posts they're creating. It seems not all people on our planet have forgotten how to work properly. Good luck with your work.